# Building out a stroker...Looking to you guys for help along the way.



## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

2002 Audi TT 225.
Threw a rod back in late April. Been working on a plan since then. I'm pretty set in what I'd like to do - build a stroker and go with a strong hybrid. No interest in big turbo right now. Maybe at some point down the road.

What I've done/acquired so far:
AWP block - nice low mileage
AEB head with Supertech valvetrain. Stock valves.
AEG crank
IE Mahle pistons
Eurospec rods

I got a bunch of the stuff needed for the stroker from IE (e.g., oil gear, gaskets, trigger wheel, press fit timing gear, etc...). ARP rod bolts. ARP main studs. ARP crank bolt. OEM head bolts. OEM cam bolt. New oil pump. New cam position sensor. New crank sensor. All new bearings. All new gaskets and seals. New dual mass flywheel and clutch setup from Four Seasons Tuning.

I'll be using the cams from my current AMU head with a new CCT and timing chain.

Rented a torque plate and had the head bored out and cleaned. Also had the crank and flywheel spun to make sure they're balanced. Everything checks out fine.

Questions so far:
1) I've weighed and matched my pistons, rods, pins, bolts so that the max difference between my heaviest and lightest set is 0.16 grams. Heaviest is 964.07 grams. Lightest is 963.91 grams. This is as close as I can get it. Seems close enough. Any thoughts on this?

2) The block came back with the oil squirters removed. I know where those go. However, there were also 2 solid pins that I am at a loss for where they go. I'm attaching a picture to give better reference. Does anyone know what they are/where they go?










My hope is to track progress here and to use this as a way to take advantage of the wealth of knowledge out there, as needed.

I do have a Bentley and I am very comfortable working on my car so this should hopefully be a fun process.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

Conversion to wide-band? BEA engine ECUs are inexpensive and the conversion harnesses aren't costly either.


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

The pins are the head locating dowels and go in the deck of the block.


----------



## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

20v master said:


> The pins are the head locating dowels and go in the deck of the block.


Awesome. Thanks.


----------



## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Conversion to wide-band? BEA engine ECUs are inexpensive and the conversion harnesses aren't costly either.


Wideband is highly probable.


----------



## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

I would highly highly highly recommend going wide band conversion, most software these days don't even wanna run narrow band when it comes to motor builds


----------



## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

Audiguy84 said:


> I would highly highly highly recommend going wide band conversion, most software these days don't even wanna run narrow band when it comes to motor builds


I have a line on a BEA and AWP ECU. Which of these would be best to get for the wideband conversion?


----------



## Alec's TT (Jan 28, 2013)

any wideband ecu will work, also, read around in the 1.8t forum, thats going to be way more useful than in here. You can search on wideband conversion, there will be lists of all the ecus you can use. Use the crap out of the search feature, almost every question you will ask has been answered, i damn near built my whole motor from reading other threads on here! Good luck!

Edit, after actually reading your post: "AEB head with Supertech valvetrain. Stock valves." bad idea, intakes are fine, exhausts need replaced, supertech valves will work fine. This picture is from my frankenturbo build. Stock exhaust valves are hollow. See the second on down is cracked on my head! Don't make the same mistake i did!


----------



## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

*Exhaust valves*

Thanks Alec. Ferrea exhaust valves ordered and will be going into the head.


----------



## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

Ferrea exhaust valves installed. Frankenturbo ordered. Waiting on engine stand to get to work assembling the new engine.


----------



## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

*Piston Assembly*

So I am now assembling the pistons. Those circlips are a real bitch to get on.
Anyway, I'm starting on the rod bearings and I the bearings are not as wide as the end caps. I am using Eurospec rods. The bearings fit right into the cap, they're just narrower.
Am I OK to continue with these or do I have to get different bearings?


----------



## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

*One more question*

I have a set of ARP main studs. My set consists of 10 bolts, 10 nuts, and the ARP lube. No washers.
Most sets I see come with washers. Are there sets without washers?
My issue is that I ordered these things awhile ago. I don't remember where I ordered them from. It was a new package.
Should I be concerned?


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

The rod bearing doesn't cover the entire cap. Main studs from ARP should include washers. I'd call them up.


----------



## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

20v master said:


> The rod bearing doesn't cover the entire cap. Main studs from ARP should include washers. I'd call them up.


Called ARP. The washers are OK. 
Now to find rod bearings that fit.
Thanks.


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

ramone23456 said:


> Called ARP. The washers are OK.
> Now to find rod bearings that fit.
> Thanks.


Why do you think yours don't fit?


----------



## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

20v master said:


> Why do you think yours don't fit?


I may have misinterpreted your original response. Are you saying the rod bearings are supposed to be that way? If so, then I good.
Please confirm.
I really appreciate your input.


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

ramone23456 said:


> I may have misinterpreted your original response. Are you saying the rod bearings are supposed to be that way? If so, then I good.
> Please confirm.
> I really appreciate your input.


What's in the picture will work fine *assuming* your clearances are in spec.


----------



## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

20v master said:


> What's in the picture will work fine *assuming* your clearances are in spec.


The crank is fine. Mains are fine- all within spec. Next step is to get these on and plastigauge them.
The piston assemblies are balanced to within 0.1 grams.
Thanks again for your guidance.


----------



## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

*Some progress tonight...*

Got all of the pistons assembled and installed. Plastigauged. All within spec.


----------



## Alec's TT (Jan 28, 2013)

Those dishes look deep, what comp ratio are you after?


----------



## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

Alec's TT said:


> Those dishes look deep, what comp ratio are you after?


These are the special Mahle pistons from IE. I believe they are 9.25:1.


----------



## hubbell (Oct 30, 2001)

do you have any more pics of the pistons? do they have any notches cut out for the valves? im trying to figure out my own engine build as well and following yours while im at it. our pistons seem similar but mine have no valve cutouts and it has me worried. i dont know where my pistons came from exactly because they were in the engine i broke down and am rebuilding. was already a 2.0l build but not as well done as i wanted....anyway, im enjoying the tid bits in this thread, hope to see more updates soon.:thumbup:

so exhaust valves need to be swapped out because they are hollow and wont stand up to abuse....it sounds like the intakes are fine. do people do oversized or is that not very worthwhile considering 5 valves already?


----------



## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

hubbell said:


> do you have any more pics of the pistons? do they have any notches cut out for the valves? im trying to figure out my own engine build as well and following yours while im at it. our pistons seem similar but mine have no valve cutouts and it has me worried. i dont know where my pistons came from exactly because they were in the engine i broke down and am rebuilding. was already a 2.0l build but not as well done as i wanted....anyway, im enjoying the tid bits in this thread, hope to see more updates soon.:thumbup:
> 
> so exhaust valves need to be swapped out because they are hollow and wont stand up to abuse....it sounds like the intakes are fine. do people do oversized or is that not very worthwhile considering 5 valves already?


I don't have any more pics, but this is the link to them on IE:
Http://www.performancebyie.com/ie-spec-mahle-1-8t-20v-piston-set
They're a perfect fit. They have the notch cut out of then to clear the oil squirters without needing to space them out.

As for the exhaust valves i went with standard size.


----------



## Alec's TT (Jan 28, 2013)

Std size but aftermarket valves right?


----------



## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

Alec's TT said:


> Std size but aftermarket valves right?


Only the exhaust valves. Ferrea.


----------



## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

*The carnage....*

So I finally dropped the oil pan on the old motor last night. It was worse than I could ever imagine. The rod on cylinder 2 essentially exploded. Pics to come later.
For right now though I am hoping some of you may have a couple of parts available. I need an oil pan baffle and an oil pickup tube. I can get the pickup tube new pretty easily. The baffle is a bit harder to find.
Like I said. Hopefully someone has these parts they'd like to sell. Already searched the classifieds and didn't see any.
Let me know.
Thanks.


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

$70 @ECS, can find them for half that on Ebay, but I'd buy a new one as plastic breaks.


----------



## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

20v master said:


> $70 @ECS, can find them for half that on Ebay, but I'd buy a new one as plastic breaks.


I agree on the new versus eBay. Ordered everything from ECS. Thanks.


----------



## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

*Sampling of stuff from the oil pan.*

Courtesy of Cylinder #2.


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

So what caused this to happen in the first place?


----------



## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

20v master said:


> So what caused this to happen in the first place?


A serious case of overboost. My liquid TT showed a peak of about 27 psi when she went. I had just loaded the Gonzo stage 2 tune and I was pushing it hard.


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

ramone23456 said:


> A serious case of overboost. My liquid TT showed a peak of about 27 psi when she went. I had just loaded the Gonzo stage 2 tune and I was pushing it hard.


On a K04? That shouldn't be enough to blow a rod. I run that on my daily 225.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Looks like some proper detonation  What were the air fuels under full load?


----------



## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

DeckManDubs said:


> Looks like some proper detonation  What were the air fuels under full load?


That's one theory. Usually when that happens you get a burnt valve or beat up piston (or both), though.

GTS Stage 2 AMU tune is good for up to 23psi spike with no issues


----------



## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

*Making progress.*

The bottom end is shaping up and starting to look like something. The ARP crank bolt is a major pain. 74 ft-lbs plus 1/4 turn. That quarter turn is insane. Required me and my son to both go at it to get that last bit.



















Made progress on getting the old engine out as well. It's just about ready. One victim was the A/C cooler. I was trying to remove everything so I wouldn't have to drain the refrigerant. I had it going until I removed the alternator and proceeded to drop it on top of the cooler. Caused a nice hole and the refrigerant started hissing out. Something I'll have to take care of later.

Also this weekend I'll be transferring the cams from the old head into the new one.


----------



## Gonzalo1495 (Feb 2, 2015)

ramone23456 said:


> A serious case of overboost. My liquid TT showed a peak of about 27 psi when she went. I had just loaded the Gonzo stage 2 tune and I was pushing it hard.


Sounds like your wastegate actuator nut was messed with previously


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

^ not necessarily, I get boost *spikes* on the k04 and 27psi is pretty typical, but it doesn't hold there at all. A boost spike could have been a factor, but even then the rods wouldn't just shatter unless there were other factors. Either way, I'd frame that destroyed rod and display it proudly :laugh:


----------



## Gonzalo1495 (Feb 2, 2015)

l88m22vette said:


> ^ not necessarily, I get boost *spikes* on the k04 and 27psi is pretty typical, but it doesn't hold there at all. A boost spike could have been a factor, but even then the rods wouldn't just shatter unless there were other factors. Either way, I'd frame that destroyed rod and display it proudly :laugh:


Well the map is set for 23psi, mine was boosting to 27-29 because the previous owner had tampered with the wastegate adjustment. Idk if spikes that high are safe for the internals either, what map are you running??


----------



## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

Spent the day getting the last bits off and disconnected. She's now officially ready to be removed. Just need to finish up her replacement.
It's been a long time coming.


----------



## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

*Cams.*

I've transferred my cams to the new head with a new chain and tensioner. I've checked and re-checked and I'm 99% sure they are spot on. Can you guys take a look and confirm?


----------



## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

*New Issue.*

I'm going to cross post this on the 1.8T forum, but here is my new issue. I purchased a new, OEM VW crank gear from ECS. I originally purchased an IE press fit, but they were waiting for a new batch and I didn't have the 3 weeks to wait.
Anyway, I installed the gear with a new ARP bolt. I went to put the crank pulley on this morning and it doesn't fit!
The hole on the pulley does not fit over the gear. Even if it did fit over, it does not look like the holes in the pulley line up with the holes in the gear.
I'm at a bit of a loss. Do I need to get a different pulley? I tossed the old crank gear. I can't bear the thought of removing the crank gear and swapping it out. That bolt is a bear to put on.
Really need help on this one.


----------



## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

*Bigger question.*

So I think I can get the pulley on. It's a very tight fit. I'll be using the bolts as a comealong. As I tighten, the pulley will be pulled into the crank gear.

My bigger question is about the timing marks on the crank pulley. Before I put the head on I set the crank to slightly left of TDC on cylinder 1. It was perfect.
I put the crank pulley on and the alignment marks on the pulley were nowhere near TDC. It was almost 180 degrees off. In a panic I took the head off - fearing the worst.
As it turns out, #1 cylinder was perfect TDC and the head is spot on.
Is this fine since I've got a stroked crank in there? That's the only thing I can think of. Can someone provide some insight on this?
Pictures are below. You can see the timing marks almost line up when #2 is TDC. When #1 is TDC the mark on the pulley is on the opposite end.

I put a little whiteout on the marks so you can see them.

You can see the marks almost line up when #2 is TDC:










When #1 is TDC the mark on the pulley is on the other side:












Last question. I torqued the head down yesterday. I removed it today. Do I need to replace the head gasket or can I just re-torque it and be fine?


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

You've done something wrong. There is no timing gear (gear implies meshing with another gear), there is an oil pump sprocket, a timing belt cog, and an accessory belt pulley. What is the part number of the timing belt cog that you got new OEM from ECS and installed? Also, yes, you need to replace the head gasket since you torqued the head and removed it. But no, just because you're using a stroker crank, the timing marks should still all line up as originally designed.


----------



## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

20v master said:


> You've done something wrong. There is no timing gear (gear implies meshing with another gear), there is an oil pump sprocket, a timing belt cog, and an accessory belt pulley. What is the part number of the timing belt cog that you got new OEM from ECS and installed? Also, yes, you need to replace the head gasket since you torqued the head and removed it. But no, just because you're using a stroker crank, the timing marks should still all line up as originally designed.


Yeah I screwed up. I didn't properly align the crank gear on the snout of the crank. Took it off ad am waiting for the IE billet piece to arrive.


----------



## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

While I wait for the crank gear and new head gasket from IE, I was able to do a couple of things.
Popped off the old ball joints and installed new ones.
I was also able to install a set of solid bushings in the subframe. They're pretty stout, but they're a pain to press in. Mine also required some sanding/grinding to get them pressed in.


----------

