# Why's my fuse box melting???



## 1.8TTURBO (Oct 1, 2006)

*Fuse Box melting, why???*

Hey guys, my fuse box all of a sudden decided to melt by itself ...
no kidding the first fuse from left to right melted and the fusebox aswell melted,
i've heard many things of what may cause it, but need to know since i bought a new one
and don't want to f*ck it again...
So I notice my engine (oil temp) where rising, reason: radiator fans where shut... they goes on 
ONLY when I turn on the a/c .
So I've heard about changing the two fans, replacing just the big one,...
replacing the fan control module, the a/c relay, just replacing the box...
I need reasonable thinking, what should I do, check and how to check them, before i start 
buying and spending money i don't need to spend...










_Modified by 1.8TTURBO at 9:03 AM 12-11-2009_


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## naconi (Nov 1, 2009)

*Re: Fuse Box melting, why??? (1.8TTURBO)*

If you are talking about the one on top of the battery, I had the same thing happen to a 98 beetle. It is the fuse for the fan, mine didn't melt too bad so I didn't buy a new fuse box. I just replaced the fuse and I haven't had a problem for about 1 year.


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## 1.8TTURBO (Oct 1, 2006)

*Re: Fuse Box melting, why??? (1.8TTURBO)*

bump


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## burble X2 (Dec 9, 2009)

*Re: Fuse Box melting, why??? (1.8TTURBO)*

i have a newer mint condition fuse box with all new fuses in it, along with the alternator wire which you will probably need to replace too available. same thing happened to me a while back, i replaced the box and the alternator wire, and it hasn't given me any trouble since then. i bought this box+wire as an extra, and i'm not going to need it. PM me if you're interested.


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## Gott2Jett (Sep 1, 2007)

*Re: Fuse Box melting, why??? (burble X2)*

pm sent


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## x00001633 (Dec 10, 2009)

*Re: Fuse Box melting, why??? (1.8TTURBO)*

read my posting
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...81857
i am having similar issues with mine.
i just installed a new fuse box today and is heating up again.
the problem may be your alternator harness thats what i intend to replace next.


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## x00001633 (Dec 10, 2009)

*Re: Fuse Box melting, why??? (1.8TTURBO)*

also if it is the first wire from the left, if you are looking at the engine bay fuse box from the front,
then this wire is the +ve of your alternator


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## x00001633 (Dec 10, 2009)

*Re: Fuse Box melting, why??? (x00001633)*

here is a picture of my melted fuse box before ui replaced it
http://img340.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=1004850.jpg


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## 1.8TTURBO (Oct 1, 2006)

I replaced the fuse box with a new one, and the same fuse is melting again is the first one from left to right... any advice, suggestions , ...??? tia!


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## x00001633 (Dec 10, 2009)

*Re: (1.8TTURBO)*

I am having the exact same issue as you are right now
I have the 2.0 GLS engine but the alternator, fuse box and alternator harness are the same in both.
I replaced my fuse box this morning. I filed the carbon from the contacts put on an electrical contact grease to make sure the contacts were really good and clean and it is starting to heat up again, i could smell the plastic and see smoke starting to come from the black wire.
I killed the engine right away before it got a chance to melt it again. VW dealer charged me $150 for that fuse box and i definitely don't want to be swapping that out every time.
For some reason, too much current is being drawn down that cable causing the black alternator cable to heat up and melt the fuse box.
There is a 110A fuse there that should pop to prevent a fire but it does not.
My alternator is <2 months old, my fuse box is brand new.
the only part left for me to replace is the alternator wire harness so i will be doing that on Tuesday most likely when i can get the part.
I am waiting to confirm the part number for the harness. Ill let you know if it fixes the problem for me.


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## mcTT (Oct 24, 2005)

*Re: (x00001633)*

Maybe the oem alternator wire is too small? 
I put an additional inline fuse and new wire. Haven't driven it much since so no word on effectiveness.


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## mohadib (Sep 15, 2009)

*Re: (mcTT)*

ahh, im having this problem too. My customers cars would just die, sometimes the dash board warning lights would go nuts too. SO im hoping its due to a bad wire to the alt. Anyone else with this problem have luck by replacing the alt? Could a dead battery cause the alt to send too much amps for that wire?
On the car in question I measured the output of the alt with the car running. Was only 14v. Could the alt going bad slightly cause a drop it charging volts, thus causing more amps to be pulled though the wire and resulting in the melting at the fuse block? Im grasping for anything here








Heres what mine looked like:


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## hollywoodman (May 26, 2009)

*Re: (mohadib)*

this is a normal problem. you guys have a bad connection somehwherer............. ie battery clamps..............back of the alternotr.............. cable fromt he altnerotr to battery.............. also replace the alternator cable and fuse box as one.....


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## 1.8TTURBO (Oct 1, 2006)

well my alternator cable seems fine, in fact, my problem is in the first fuse from left to right, the green ones from the pic above


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## 1.8TTURBO (Oct 1, 2006)

*Re: (1.8TTURBO)*

i just took out the a/c control module and seemss fine. what else can i check???


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

When you say 'seems fine'...are you checking with an ohm meter? Or just visually?
You need to check from a nice chassis ground (eg engine block) to each other ground point.
Also check from the top of your battery terminal to each hot point in that alternator circuit for voltage.
You need to check electrically not visually in this circumstance.


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## 1.8TTURBO (Oct 1, 2006)

*Re: (groggory)*

ok thanks, but i've heard that the fuse my car is melting does it b/c of a/c problems it's a fan problem but could be the relay, the module or the fan itself... i'm gonna check electrically now, lyk


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

*Re: (1.8TTURBO)*

If you have one, use a clamp style amp meter.
Basically you just put the loop around the cable and it'll tell you how much current is flowing. Turn various things on and log how much current flows when the different things are on. Then you can find the current pig that is melting your box.


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## x00001633 (Dec 10, 2009)

*Re: (groggory)*

so
Have ordered the alternator wiring harness, ill be picking it up today on the way home from work and hopefully installing tonight or tomorrow. I really hope this fixes the problem.
Also, a mechanic suggested i test the battery as there may be a possible shorted cell making the alternator work like a dog and draw high current.
I did have the battery professionally tested and it is fine. but maybe you should test yours too.
Will update when I have installed and let you know if it worked.
Wish me luck!


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## 1.8TTURBO (Oct 1, 2006)

*Re: (x00001633)*

thanks buddy, wish you best of luck!!!!
I'll be checking my battery too... i also suggest to check the ground cable from the alternator, it goes to the block.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

*Re: (1.8TTURBO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8TTURBO* »_thanks buddy, wish you best of luck!!!!
I'll be checking my battery too... i also suggest to check the ground cable from the alternator, it goes to the block.

So did you check all of your connections with the ohm meter? Do you have any measurements that back up you replacing your stuff? Or are you just throwing parts at it?


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## x00001633 (Dec 10, 2009)

*Re: (groggory)*

Didn't check resistance w/ ohm meter. just tested connectivity,
But, I had to replace those parts. Did you see my pictures. those parts have to be replaced regardless of what an ohm meter showed. Especially my use box which had melted.
but, tonight I plan to
- replace alternator harness
- Test battery voltage cold and with engine running
- Test alternator voltage w/ engine running. 
- Check Resistance w/ ohm meter.
Would you happen to know what the ideal readings should be?
Thanks


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

*Re: (x00001633)*

Battery should be ~12V
Alternator should be ~14V
Cables should show a reading of <.5 ohms
Test cables, then across connections, and just all that jazz. You're looking for a bad crimp, a bad connection, a bad cable, a bad fuse, some corrosion, whatever
Where you put the leads when you test resistance makes all the difference as to figuring out the problem.
Test all that stuff with the battery disconnected to make it easier on you.
Take a piece of paper and write down where you put the black probe and where you put the red probe and what the resistance was. Then post all that back for us. That way we can tell you if you forgot to measure something or if you measured from the right points. I know it's a pain, but being that this is a forum and we're not there to see that is how we can best help.


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## x00001633 (Dec 10, 2009)

*Re: (groggory)*

sure will
thanks for this good info ill update hopefully later this evening (weather permitting) or tomorrow evening at the latest
Thanks again


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## x00001633 (Dec 10, 2009)

*engine bay fuse box melted*

Hi Guys,
replaced the alternator harness tonight
Ok, its looking like good news. had the engine running for over 10 minutes with all accessories going, lights, heated seats wipers etc and the cable barely warms up.
last time i did that with the older alternator harness i would have had to shut the engine off long before that.
I did some measurements, here they are
(measurements with engine OFF)
New alternator harness resistance: 0.2 Ohm
Batt Voltage Cold: 13.1V
Resistance across 110A fuse in engine bay fuse box: 0.2 Ohm
Alternator Voltage (Cold): 12.7
(measurements with engine ON: No accessories)
Batt Voltage: 14.67V
Alternator Voltage:14.5
(measurements with engine ON: ALL accessories ON at once)
Batt voltage:12.75
Alternator: 12.6
Hopefully I am not jumping the gun but seems like we are in good shape now. i need to put everything back together and tie up the cables. I think then i will take it for a drive for 30 mins or so and make sure all is good.
Want to thank you all for your help and hope nobody else or myself doesn't get this problem again


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## x00001633 (Dec 10, 2009)

*Re: engine bay fuse box melted (x00001633)*

So drove the car last night for about 40 minutes,
Was -8 last night so had the heated seats cranked up and heater going on full.No problems.
Drove into work today too and everything looks good.


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## x00001633 (Dec 10, 2009)

*Re: engine bay fuse box melted (x00001633)*

all in all it cost me ( Canadian Dollars)
$28.00 one day rental car
$160 tax for engine bay fuse box
$3 for 110 Amp fuse strip
$120 for alt harness
So not too bad i guess could definitely be a lot worse.


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## transient_analysis (Jan 28, 2003)

*Re: engine bay fuse box melted (x00001633)*

I actually had the plastic around the green fuses burn up.. on the side opposite the battery.
All the other nutslooked a little 'worn' so I took out all the fuses and cleaned both the fuses, and all the bolt/nuts before reassembling the entire thing.
Sounds like the battery fuse box needs to be added to the 100k checkup.


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## x00001633 (Dec 10, 2009)

*Re: engine bay fuse box melted (transient_analysis)*

I wish VW would do the due diligence and re-call the crap. seems this problem is a little too common across VW and AUDI.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Maybe someone should make a nice aftermarket unit that fits in the stock spot.


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## x00001633 (Dec 10, 2009)

*Re: Fuse Box melting, why??? (1.8TTURBO)*

did you fix it yet?
Whats the status on your car right now?


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

The bad connection is *right where it's heating up*--on the end of the alternator wire. The ring terminal on the end is prone to getting corrosion and other muck between itself and the copper strands.
It's so common on VWs and such a potential for fire or other damage that I'm surprised that to my knowlwedge there's been no recall or campaign.
Get a suitable ring terminal. I don't remember the exact size, I think the wire is the equivalent of 4 AWG and the ring opening is about 5/16". You can get them at auto parts stores, hardware stores, etc., maybe about a buck each or so. You'll also need a *large* crimper or crimping pliers.
Cut off the old terminal. Cut off the end of the wire to where the strands are in good shape. Strip the insulation back enough for the new terminal. Crimp the new terminal tightly onto the wire. Install it onto the screw post on the fuse panel.
If the fuse panel is in bad shape, you'll need to replace that too.


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## 1.8TTURBO (Oct 1, 2006)

*Re: Fuse Box melting, why??? (x00001633)*

my alternator cable is good, so is the alternator and battery.
checked the a/c control module good
checked all connections and are also good..
a friend checked it with a voltmeter and says everything was normal
all my fuses are new
same problem:
fan fuse melting
now the problem is:
the turbo s use a diff. fan (the big one) it has 3 speed and a 4-pin harness
cant find it locally, the price on the dealer is $380
anyone knows a replacement that will fit???


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## x00001633 (Dec 10, 2009)

*Re: Fuse Box melting, why??? (1.8TTURBO)*

You say your cable is good?
that cable (if it is still the one in the picture, does not look good) you can see corrosion on the copper and there is too much copper exposed.
you really need to change that your can can go on fire. the fuse does not stop the current it keeps burning. when it happened to me was -10 outside but on a hot summers day who knows what could have happened. 
what was the resistance on the cable?,
measure the resistance between different points of the corroded contact and the other end.
should be 0.2 ohms no matter what.
the part number for the alternator harness is 1J0 971 349 HG (with A/C)
1J0 971 349 HF w/o A/C
and it is good for MKIV jetta's 01-05
cost me $120CAD from VW dealer in georgetown ,Ontario. car has been solid since no electrical problems to report


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

Is it the first fuse on the left that's melting?
If so, then your alternator cable might not be good, at least on the end.


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## 1.8TTURBO (Oct 1, 2006)

*Re: Fuse Box melting, why??? (x00001633)*

I didn't post any pic...


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## 1.8TTURBO (Oct 1, 2006)

*Re: (BassNotes)*

yes the first fuse from left (the plastic/green one, not the metal strip)


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## x00001633 (Dec 10, 2009)

*Re: (1.8TTURBO)*

were you able to correct the issue with your fuse box melting?
happy to report mine is going well since alternator harness and fuse box was replaced.


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

*Re: (mohadib)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mohadib* »_ahh, im having this problem too. My customers cars would just die, sometimes the dash board warning lights would go nuts too. SO im hoping its due to a bad wire to the alt. Anyone else with this problem have luck by replacing the alt? Could a dead battery cause the alt to send too much amps for that wire?
On the car in question I measured the output of the alt with the car running. Was only 14v. Could the alt going bad slightly cause a drop it charging volts, thus causing more amps to be pulled though the wire and resulting in the melting at the fuse block? Im grasping for anything here <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0">
Heres what mine looked like:









When you get problems like that--hot + lead from alternator and distortion or melting of the fuse panel--the problem is right here:


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

*Re: (1.8TTURBO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8TTURBO* »_yes the first fuse from left (the plastic/green one, not the metal strip)

Sorry, I thought you meant the metal strip fuse. I don't recall what the left green fuse goes to.


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## BengRock (Aug 29, 2009)

Replace the alternator harness fuse panel and burnt fuses. thats a common thing. High resistance builds up in the harness which causes it to heat up and melt the fuse panel. that the end of the alternator harness that melted.


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

*Re: (BengRock)*

You should replace any blown fuses, and the fuse panel if it's damaged. If you don't fix the situation that caused it, though, they'll just overheat again.
This can be fixed without replacing the entire alternator harness.


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## x00001633 (Dec 10, 2009)

*Re: (BassNotes)*

Ive already had the same problem with my car,
alternator was replaced,
fuses were replaced
fuse box was replaced and the thing was starting to heat up and melt again.
trust me: Replace The Alternator Harness!!
see my earlier posting in this forum for mt voltage and resistance measurements after i installed the new harness.
since i replaced the harness everything has been running smooth.
Now if youll excuse me I think i hear Santa and Rudolph prancing on my rooftop
happy Christmas everyone. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...22446#


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

Like I said, you can fix it without replacing the alternator harness, just fixing what's wrong with it. Replace that end terminal, and attach the new one to clean copper. _That's_ the fix, and it only costs a buck. Well, 20 bucks if you don't already have a heavy-duty crimper.
It's a hell of a lot cheaper than just replacing random expensive items.


_Modified by BassNotes at 2:01 AM 12-25-2009_


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## x00001633 (Dec 10, 2009)

*Re: (BassNotes)*

for a temporary patch fix for a quick buck, he could re-crimp the end.
To do a repair safely and correctly and spend 100 bucks, replace the harness completely.
With the existing cable if he replaces just that one end, there is still the possibility of high resistance in other parts of the cable and it will not correct the problem.
Its up to you though.
i did find another posting in this forum with an Audi TT, same problem in the beginning. car did go on fire and was burned out completely.
I drive my wife and kids in my car, im perfectly ok to spend more than a buck when safety is a concern. Dont take shortcuts, do it correctly for your own sake and your cars sake.


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

Repairing the end correctly (replacing the ring terminal, not recrimping it) is no short cut, it's just fixing what needs fixing.
If you're not adept at electrical repairs, you might indeed prefer to replace the entire harness. That's okay, but knowledge can save you time and money. Sometimes a good deal of money.


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## x00001633 (Dec 10, 2009)

*Re: (BassNotes)*

I have my Degree in Electronics Engineering. So, I am very adept when it comes to electronics and electricity. While I am not a mechanic by any means, one thing I know is electricity.
High resistance build up on one end of the cable is possible.
until the resistance is measured (before and after the cable has a new connector applied) we cannot be sure that this is the fix.
remember 0.2 ohm was my measurement on new cable if you read my measurements earlier.
before that, measurement was infinity. probes could not get a fix on a solid measurement. there was so much carbon on the strands of copper that only a new wire could fix it.
look at the picture, don't you see how much carbon has built up on the copper from the heat?
Weather will get at it, the copper will corrode over time.
This is my logic for replacing the whole harness. new copper (fully insulated) and new connectors.
please explain to me how you think a new connector will be the sure fix?
it will not fix the high resistance on the cable. Tell you what, ill mail you my old harness that was removed. i dare you to change the connector on the end of it and put it into your own car.


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

This end of the alternator + lead is a common weak spot on VWs. The resistance isn't in the wire itself but between the wire and the terminal. The symptoms at issue in this thread point directly to this phenomenon. In high-current circutry, I^2*R heating occurs where the resistance is high. You won't find resistance in one location and heating in another.
If you have other symptoms with the alternator harness, fine, replace it. But if what's being discussed here is the issue and heating does not occur elsewhere, then replacing the terminal and crimping the new one onto clean copper is a perfectly good solution, and much less expensive than replacing the entire harness.


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## BengRock (Aug 29, 2009)

its real easy to replace the alternator harness. That will take care of the problem for good. We get it all the time at work.


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

So there are two easy solutions for taking care of the problem for good. What do you guys charge to replace the harness where you work?


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## genericashorthair (Aug 20, 2010)

Where can I buy this alternator cable online (2003 Jetta V6)? I'm having the same problem as everyone else and don't trust myself to crimp the cable. I'd rather just replace it (it's been on the car for about 112k miles) and I can't seem to find a good website to buy just that part. Even ebay was a let down. Any suggestions?


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## p1bump (Sep 22, 2006)

bump for an older thread from the days of santa, 2009. but hey, I"m on the same topic, sort of. 

my fusebox has not melted, i'm trying to avoid the melting to avoid the paying and to avoid a pissed off, stranded spouse with a pissed off and stranded 18 month old.... for the love of God... that would suck. 

but, in difference to the photos here, the fuse next to the black wire, the 2nd from the left in the fuse box as you are looking at it (drivers right) is the one that's hot. s176 I think is the circuit. 

it's a red wire, the copper is visibly darkened and corroded and the jacket is partially blackened and I believe it's because of corrosion = higher resistance resulting in high heat conditions just at and behind the ring terminal for this wire. I believe the s176 runs interior electrics and this would explain why everything that is red/blue in the interior has been flickering at night time with the headlights on (radio, dash, window/lock/mirror illuminated buttons). 

I think I'm going to try to see if that wire is easily replaceable seperately as I do not believe it is part of the alternator harness assembly that most of you have replaced. If i can't locate both ends of the wire clearly and easily then I think I'll try the ring terminal replacement and try to strip the wire back to good copper if there is enough slack to be had with the factory routing.... that may be a challenge. 

any input, suggestions, comments or criticism?

cheers, righ


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## p1bump (Sep 22, 2006)

sorry, I meant to say Rich, cause it's my name. 

and also, the s176 I refer too is the only terminal showing signs of poor connection on that fuse box. 

would an alternator not putting out the amperage needed possibly cause this concern?


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## p1bump (Sep 22, 2006)

turns out bob lee, you were right on the mark with your hot spot/there's your problem comment.... 

melting appears to be result of bad connections at the usebox and/or crapped out alternator cable.... 

turns out you were on the money. 

cleaning batt terminals seemed to help the problem for a short while, but it would always return. It seemed much more prevalent when there was a high ambient temperature with lots of electrical load (a/c, radio, headlights on after dark, etc) especially over mid 90°'s. When cooler we only had occasional interior light flickering (dash, window & radio buttons) and an occasional ghost neutral while sitting at a stop in traffic. 


I trimmed that burned wire back, removed the dark/tainted copper strands, had enough slack to reinstall the ring terminal, though it got beat up in the bending/prying process and needs to be replaced with a new one. no more flickering or weird behavior. 

I guess the low voltage to some component in the interior tells the computer to select neutral, then when the volts rise it corrects and re-engages the trans. I would have thought this was handled by the ecm/ecu and on a sepaeate circuit altogether. 

wonder if it was the tiptronic sensor... any ideas? 



BassNotes said:


> The bad connection is *right where it's heating up*--on the end of the alternator wire. The ring terminal on the end is prone to getting corrosion and other muck between itself and the copper strands.
> It's so common on VWs and such a potential for fire or other damage that I'm surprised that to my knowlwedge there's been no recall or campaign.
> Get a suitable ring terminal. I don't remember the exact size, I think the wire is the equivalent of 4 AWG and the ring opening is about 5/16". You can get them at auto parts stores, hardware stores, etc., maybe about a buck each or so. You'll also need a *large* crimper or crimping pliers.
> Cut off the old terminal. Cut off the end of the wire to where the strands are in good shape. Strip the insulation back enough for the new terminal. Crimp the new terminal tightly onto the wire. Install it onto the screw post on the fuse panel.
> If the fuse panel is in bad shape, you'll need to replace that too.


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## 64vwsqback (Mar 3, 2013)

*Try this first*

Listen to bass notes...IT WORKS!! For others checking this thread for melted fuse box! Save yourself alot of grief time and money! Don't change the alternator just yet...try this or have your mechanic do it. After changing the alternator and having the car die again I realized it wasn't the alternator. After noticing MY fuse box was melted {apparently a common problem)and much research it came down to a bad crimp connector. I couldn't even touch it because of heat, as soon as I turned the engine on! So I cut the old one off pulled the wire alittle bit and replaced it with a $2 dollar lug from Lowes and wahlaa. cool as a cucumber, no heat what so ever. DONE!!! don't spend money on a new alternator or harness till you try this!!!!


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## HellaSlammed (Jun 13, 2013)

Bump 
I didn't want to make another thread 

I have the same problem 
Does the lug screw hold down the wire good?


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

64vwsqback said:


> Listen to bass notes...IT WORKS!! For others checking this thread for melted fuse box! Save yourself alot of grief time and money! Don't change the alternator just yet...try this or have your mechanic do it. After changing the alternator and having the car die again I realized it wasn't the alternator. After noticing MY fuse box was melted {apparently a common problem)and much research it came down to a bad crimp connector. I couldn't even touch it because of heat, as soon as I turned the engine on! So I cut the old one off pulled the wire alittle bit and replaced it with a $2 dollar lug from Lowes and wahlaa. cool as a cucumber, no heat what so ever. DONE!!! don't spend money on a new alternator or harness till you try this!!!!


 Great fix! Unlike my approach that requires lineman's pliers, yours can be done with more common tools.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

64vwsqback said:


> Listen to bass notes...IT WORKS!! For others checking this thread for melted fuse box! Save yourself alot of grief time and money! Don't change the alternator just yet...try this or have your mechanic do it. After changing the alternator and having the car die again I realized it wasn't the alternator. After noticing MY fuse box was melted {apparently a common problem)and much research it came down to a bad crimp connector. I couldn't even touch it because of heat, as soon as I turned the engine on! So I cut the old one off pulled the wire alittle bit and replaced it with a $2 dollar lug from Lowes and wahlaa. cool as a cucumber, no heat what so ever. DONE!!! don't spend money on a new alternator or harness till you try this!!!!


 Smother the inside of that with dielectric grease and preferably wrap the whole thing in some heat shrink. There is a lot of 'pocket' in there for corrosion to happen. I see you having a voltage drop problem again in the future if you don't bullet proof your new fix. 

Nice job, btw.


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## HellaSlammed (Jun 13, 2013)

groggory said:


> Smother the inside of that with dielectric grease and preferably wrap the whole thing in some heat shrink. There is a lot of 'pocket' in there for corrosion to happen. I see you having a voltage drop problem again in the future if you don't bullet proof your new fix.
> 
> Nice job, btw.


 Heat shrink over that big lug? 

would you recommend that lug? or terminal ring lugs are better?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

HellaSlammed said:


> Heat shrink over that big lug?
> 
> would you recommend that lug? or terminal ring lugs are better?


 Yes, some 4:1 adhesive heat shrink would do a nice job on that big lug. 

Terminal ring lugs are better...but the guy who posted that solution didn't have the crimp tools to use those.


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

I would do the dielectric grease at least, to help make the metal-metal contact points gas-tight and therefore resistant to corrosion and contamination. And periodically check the tightness of the screw. 

Heat shrink would be good but I'd wait until I was sure that the screw doesn't need need to be re-tightened periodically.


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

groggory said:


> Yes, some 4:1 adhesive heat shrink would do a nice job on that big lug.
> 
> Terminal ring lugs are better...but the guy who posted that solution didn't have the crimp tools to use those.


 This photo shows the ring terminal I used. It requires a big crimp with lineman's pliers; it can't be done well with typical $5 to $10 wire stripper/crimpers. 








[/URL] 

You can see that the post is skewed, indicating that the plastic had been softening from the heat the junction had been dissipating before the fix. This is such a common issue that I'm surprised VW hadn't done a recall.


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## vintageagain (Sep 26, 2008)

i've been getting the same thing on my 03 Jetta. There's more that we can do then just deal with it and replace the melted fuse box. Go to https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/ and file a complaint.


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