# Steering Fault - Workshop" message - here's the cause and the solution. [TOC done]



## Rowayton (May 29, 2004)

Got a message "Steering Fault - Workshop" along with the audible warning buzzer the other day while shutting down my Phaeton. Restarted the car and the warning was gone. Got the same message last night at vehicle shutdown. When returning to the car after dinner I attempted to start the car and go home prior to what looked like an approaching storm. 

Everything was fine except I could not start the car. I also could not open any window or close the sunroof (the roof was in the vent position not wide open fortunately). Everything in the car works except I can't open or close any windows, take the car out of park and of course start it. The steering wheel is not locked and is tunable. Got a ride home and got my voltage gauge and both batteries were OK. I did not load test them. How is a Phaeton that is stuck in park get put onto a flatbed carrier for it's visit to the "Workshop" and is there a known work around to get the car started and out of park so I can drive it to my dealer. I taped a plastic bag over the open part of the sun roof in case another storm decides to pay a visit.


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## stjarna (Aug 18, 2005)

*Re: New Problem (Rowayton)*

I'll let the experts jump in here but it sure smells like a low battery problem to this vehicle repair idiot. Bring a trickle charger to the car and re-charge the battery to see if that clears the fault?


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## Rowayton (May 29, 2004)

*Re: New Problem (Rowayton)*

Talked to my VW tech and explained that the car can't be dragged onto a flatbed as the car is stuck in park. My tech said that I should try disconnecting the battery (right side) making the trans lock go to sleep. That should at least let me move the gear selector into neutral allowing the car to be movable and capable of being pulled onto a flatbed. I'll of course try to start it in neutral and hopefully drive the car to my nearby dealer for repair. Hopefully I can avoid the the dragging trauma of the car being pulled onto a flatbed. If this fails my tech said he will need to come to the car and do a bit of disassembling in the parking lot.


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## Itzmann (Jan 16, 2006)

*Re: New Problem (Rowayton)*

Unrelated problem source, but since we are talking about starting problems...
Couldn't find my regular key so I fished the third key (the "valet" key) from a drawer. Approached the car, wouldn't open keyless. Hit the remote open button, wouldn't unlock. Decided the battery on the key was dead. Opened car with steel key.
IMMOBILIZER ON ...said the display. Tried to turn on the engine, engine started for just a few seconds... died, display repeated IMMOBILIZER ON. On the ignition position, all the regular startup panel lights ligthed up... but the starter position no longer did anything.
Couple of minutes.
I got out of the car, locked it (turned on the alarm). Unlocked it, got in quickly... same thing. Engine died, IMMOBILIZER ON. The Phaeton must have thought I was stealing it...








I tried a third time and then the car worked. I got a KEY BATTERY LOW. Arrived to work 5 minutes late.
Car works fine with the other keys. Haven't had a chance yet to buy a battery for the "valet" key.

I think the starting mechanism should not depend on the key having battery power. Imagine it had been an emergency!


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: New Problem (Rowayton)*

Not sure what is causing all your problems, but to close the sunroof without electrical power, see the thread entitled "Sunroof - Manual (emergency) closing of the Sunroof" in the Phaeton Forum 'Table of Contents' (FAQ by Category).
Michael


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## cwerfel (Sep 5, 2005)

*Re: New Problem (stjarna)*

I had the exact same problem on my 2004 V8 about 4 months ago at approximately 70K miles. I was able to start the car by using the steering wheel position control to move the wheel all the way to the fully retracted (toward the dash) position. At this point the ignition came back to life. I liken this to when the auto trunk gets hung up mid-cycle and you have to manually return it to a known rest position to reset the position sensor. Unfortunately for me this behavior continued intermittently until VW replaced the ENTIRE STEERING COLUMN (my final extended warranty repair, FYI) at a proported cost of $8K. My guess is that a $1.49 switch could have accomplished the same result.
Let's hope your resolution is less painful. Let us know how it turns out.
Chris


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## Rowayton (May 29, 2004)

*Re: New Problem (cwerfel)*

Thanks Chris,
Unfortunately your temporary fix scored a zero with my car







. VW Roadside Assistance is sending a flatbed with dollies to soupe up my wheeled computer[Phaeton]. All the people I've contacted about this "failure to proceed" issue and my cars retrieval have been very polite and have gone the extra mile to do their very best. There are still some nice people left that do business in a proper manor







. 
Just a heads up. If your Phaeton ever gets stuck in Park and needs to be moved or flatbeded you will need dollies for all wheels. All four wheels lock when the car is in Park







. 


_Modified by Rowayton at 10:51 AM 7-2-2008_


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: New Problem (Rowayton)*

OK, *NOW *I recognize what has happened.

There is a very small wiring harness (three wires) that enters the steering column near the base of the steering column, which happens to be very close to where the plastic cover above the footwell (the accelerator and brake pedals) is.

If the driver has a habit of kicking (intentionally or unintentionally) the plastic cover above the footwell, or if the technician is careless when he or she re-installs this plastic cover (it inserts into a clip at the forward end, and is retained by three fasteners at the aft end), the wires in this harness will become pinched. Once they are sufficiently pinched, the current will not flow and the car will display this 'steering fault' message.

The fix is simple: If you get stuck out in the middle of no-where, just wiggle the cover above the accelerator-brake pedals - this will probably get you going. Once you get the car to the workshop, the problem only takes about 20 minutes to fix - you clip off the damaged wires, and then fit repair wires onto the end and re-assemble the electrical connector.

You *DON'T *need to replace the steering column - this is grossly un-necessary overkill. This 'pinched wire' problem has been the cause of all steering / electrical complaints ever reported by Phaeton owners.

For Phaeton owners outside of North America (in other words, in the ROW, or Rest of World, as VW refers), *Campaign 97J9, criteria 1* specifically addresses how to correct the risk of damage to these wires.

Michael


*What the damaged wires look like*









*What they look like after the wire repair is carried out*









*What the fault message looks like*










_Modified by PanEuropean at 7:19 AM 3-17-2010_


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: New Problem (cwerfel)*

Here is a photo of the "footwell cover" that I am referring to in the post above. This plastic cover fits at the top of the driver footwell (or, the bottom of the instrument panel on the driver side, depending on how you want to express it).

This cover is removed from time to time to get access to components. It is not necessary to remove it for scheduled service. When replacing this cover, you have to pay careful attention to how you fit it into the retaining clips at the front of the car - otherwise, you'll snag that little three-wire bundle that emerges from the wiring harness in the same area as the clip, and ...well... you know the rest by now.

The picture below is not from the same car as the pictures above - I am posting from Juba, Sudan at the moment, no Phaetons in this neighborhood.

Michael


*Footwell Cover - be careful when you re-install this, don't snag wires!*










_Modified by PanEuropean at 7:20 AM 3-17-2010_


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## mattsimis (Sep 19, 2005)

Kudos to you PanE, making a mental note of this.


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## Rowayton (May 29, 2004)

*Re: (mattsimis)*

Thanks Michael,
I'll have my tech view your post as work is scheduled to begin Monday on my car. Would or could this pinched wire problem trigger the vehicle immobilizer (my car was stuck in Park, no start function and no window or sun roof operation)?
RB


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (Rowayton)*

Yes, because the wiring has to do with the ignition switch and steering wheel controller, and any fault in there is presumed to be 'foul play' and thus triggers the immobilizer.
Michael


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## Rowayton (May 29, 2004)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*

Michael,
After this tidbit has been on page one a bit longer perhaps it should be added to FAQ. Very useful information http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif .
RB


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## bigcheese20 (Feb 5, 2010)

*Defective Steering Wheel workshop error message on console*

I received the error message "Defective Steering Wheel Workshop" when trying to start my car in the parking lot. When I insert my key into the ignition & turn to start.... nothing happens. I've read the posts where people state a similar issue has happened when they're in the process of making a U-Turn. but no one has stated a specific warning message or that it happened while stationary (it should be noted that my steering wheel is turned a bit. Would the "short" steering harness be the culprit in this situation as well?


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## Prince Ludwig (Mar 24, 2007)

Firstly, the car not starting could just be because the starter battery is flat. Turn the key fully clockwise, fully anti-clockwise and fully clockwise again and the "emergency start" mode should be activated which links the two batteries in parallel. If the car starts, drive it for a while to top up the batteries and then charge it overnight to make sure. 
The warning message could also be a symptom of a low battery but if it doesn't go away after the car has started and been , try driving the car in a figure of eight round a large parking lot to "adapt" the steering wheel position sensors.
Oh, and welcome to the forum








Harry


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## bigcheese20 (Feb 5, 2010)

*Re: (Prince Ludwig)*

Thanks. It's good to be on the forum. Glad to see there are other Phaeton owners out there who like the car as much as I do (present mechanical issues not withstanding).
Unfortunately - no dice on the emergency start. the steering wheel is locked in place & the electronic tilt & telescope is not working. So I'm guessing it's an issue w/ the steering harness. I was hoping to get it out of the parking lot w/o towing (as it's cramped & not big truck friendly / hard to locate) So that'll be interesting....


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## Prince Ludwig (Mar 24, 2007)

I assume from your description that other things on the car are working (infortainment unit etc...)?
Harry


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## bigcheese20 (Feb 5, 2010)

*Re: (Prince Ludwig)*

That is correct. The infotainment system appears to be working fine. the only issue i'm having is starting the car / shifting into neutral etc. I delayed having the car towed b/c the intitial person wanted me to sign a waiver absolving them of blame if the car was damaged. I got a diagnostic tool this weekend to see if I can get a specific error message to provide to the dealership / VW customer care.
I'm hoping there is a way for me to at least get the car into neutral, so it's easier to tow. The initial tow truck person did try to charge the battery so it should be on full charge at the moment.


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## Rowayton (May 29, 2004)

*Re: (bigcheese20)*

I just went through this with my '04 V8 (46,000 miles on the clock). The problem was a defective steering module. The module supposedly can't be ordered as a separate part in NA which required VW to install a new steering column with the new controller attached. Besides not starting I also had no side windows or sun roof function







. As your car is most likely in Park and can't be started it's time to brush up on how to get the car into neutral while not leaving the key in the ignition so it can be flat towed. Most towing companies don't know the procedure and most likely would not want to attempt it. My tech has now done this repair on two '04 Phaeton's in the last month or so







.
From my repair order:
Part # 48145550 Upper Steering Column w/controller $1,295.00
Remove and install new column w/module $185.00
GFF/guided function charges for job total $302.25
Total repair (excluding alignment after the install) $1,597.25
My VW Real Driver Platinum policy paid for everything plus most of the tow to my dealer http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif . Hope you are CPO'd or Real Driver insured.
Ron


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## bigcheese20 (Feb 5, 2010)

*Re: (Rowayton)*

Thanks Ron. 
I appreciate the detailed list of the parts / labor. I have an outside warranty (but it's not CPO'd or VW Real Driver) & if past experience is any indicator, i'll be paying out on this one as well. The Phaeton in the last month has already cost me $3,500.00 in repairs w/ various issues not covered by my warrany. But at least I have a price point to compare to if my dealer decides to shag me on labor & parts (also not out of the question - they're not very good)








I'll see what I can find out about getting the car into neutral as i'm not really wanting to drag it up on the flat w/ the tires locked. 
BTW.... Nice list of Cars you've got. I've also got a 2004 Pontiac GTO & a 2005 Dodge Magnum RT. I guess I've got a soft spot for good cars no one wanted to buy. LOL


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## Rowayton (May 29, 2004)

*Re: (bigcheese20)*

Look in the frequently asked section of this site and look at towing. It's got details on how to get a Phaeton into neutral in situations like this. Take your time (wood trim is big money). With a little patience it's not too hard to do but at first look it seems a bit daunting. After your tech checks your car and can actually document a fix lets us know what caused your workshop warning. You might want to send an email to Chris (Chris is our Phaeton warrantee guru) and see what can be done about the terrible repair coverage you have. There is a good chance he will be able to find a solution to what sounds like no coverage at all. Good luck








Ron


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## JulianBenjamin (Jun 22, 2007)

*Re: Defective Steering Wheel workshop error message on console (bigcheese20)*

I just got this message; however, it's not when I start the car, but when I shut it down. Everything works fine, and in fact, I got this code on Saturday and after that it hasn't thrown a code since this morning.
I hope it's just a battery condition, as I've been only doing quick 5-minute drives twice a day this week.
Will report more.


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## bigcheese20 (Feb 5, 2010)

*Re: Defective Steering Wheel workshop error message on console (JulianBenjamin)*

Hi Julian,
My issue materialized in much the same way. I would see the "defective steering workshop" error message as I turned off the car & my steering wheel was detracting to it's full upright position.. Initially, I thought it was a bogus warning (like the TPM issue) b/c it didn't appear to affect the car in anyway. So I ignored it. One morning the car wouldn't start but I fixed it when I manually moved the steering wheel into the upright position. Eventually, it just died on me. & believe me. You don't want to try to get this car on & off a tow truck when it's stuck in park & you can't shift into neutral. One thread that explains the whole issue in depth is:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3912590
It explains the issue & has some nifty pictures if you're a "do it yourself" person. I even went so far as to send the pictures & explanation to my service people b/c replacing the batteries didn't do anything. Sure enough, that was the fix.

BTW.... Thanks for everyones suggestions. This Forum is very helpful.


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## JulianBenjamin (Jun 22, 2007)

*Re: Defective Steering Wheel workshop error message on console (bigcheese20)*

Nice. I'll try this out today.
Is this in the TOC? if not, it should be.


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## perfrej (Dec 24, 2009)

*Re: New Problem (PanEuropean)*

A note to all regarding Michael's pictures of the damaged harness. From what I can see, those are aviation splicing thingies. There is no substitute for those. Although frightfully expensive, they withstand everything, are hermetically sealed and never brake. I re-did the entire wiring in my boat using aviation wire (the white stuff) and splices. Never fails.
Whenever you need to splice, consider them!
I get mine from a friend who does wiring at SAAB Aircraft. Michael may know where to buy them, or maybe he can start selling them to us all?


_Modified by perfrej at 3:33 AM 3-11-2010_


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

*Re: New Problem (perfrej)*

There are other (simpler ?) methods for splicing wires.
If there are not too many of them, you can cut the wire, get a piece of heat shrink tube around the wire, solder the wire and warm the heat shrink around the solder in order to insulate it.
Another trick that does work even though it sounds strange, is to connect the wire in a secure way (use the method / connector you want) and wrap the splice / connector with a special self-fusing rubber tape made by Scotch: Scotch 23 (type "scotch 23 tape" on Google to find the datasheet).
The thing is magic as it will seal (and insulate) over anything permanently.
P.


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## JulianBenjamin (Jun 22, 2007)

*Re: Defective Steering Wheel workshop error message on console (JulianBenjamin)*

Running through some tests last night, it seems like it's definitely a short somewhere. When turning off the car, if I pull the key out immediately while the steering wheel is retracting, I get the message. However, if I wait until the wheel is fully retracted before pulling out the key, then no message appears. I just printed out instruction for removing the fuse panel and the footwell cover, and will work on it this weekend.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: New Problem (Zaphh)*


_Quote, originally posted by *perfrej* »_...From what I can see, those are aviation splicing thingies. There is no substitute for those....

Those are actually *Volkswagen *specification wire connectors, not aviation specification parts. They are listed in the Volkswagen parts catalog (ETKA) as 'airbag wire splices'. I did all of the work shown in the photos above at my neighborhood VW dealer (Volkswagen Richmond Hill, near Toronto, Canada), using only VW specification parts and supplies provided by the dealer.
Every VW dealer has a special toolkit (it has a VAG number) that includes a heat gun and a selection of these self-sealing wire splices.

_Quote, originally posted by *Zaphh* »_There are other (simpler ?) methods for splicing wires. ...you can ... solder the wire and warm the heat shrink around the solder in order to insulate it...

SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) and Volkswagen both strictly forbid soldering as a method of joining wires anywhere in the vehicle, either during new vehicle construction or during repairs. Soldered connections are vulnerable to breakage due to the vibrations and g loads encountered during vehicle operations. The solder connection itself won't break, instead, the wire will break at the point where the solder ends.
Only crimp connections provide the reliability required. Only crimp connections that have an oxygen barrier provided by an integral shrink with a special coating on the inside of the shrink provide the corrosion resistance required. Shrink-tubing that is not integral to the crimp connection is not acceptable.
Michael


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## Solipsism12 (Feb 18, 2008)

As a point of reference - if, for some reason, one cannot obtain the VW connectors, most marine supply stores will carry similar fittings (Ancor [no 'H'] is one brand in the US) - the metal portions are tinned to avoid corrosion and the 'plastic' portions are marine grade heat shrink (3:1 ratio shrink vs. 2:1 for standard radio shack type stuff) and lined with a heat-flowable sealing adhesive. They aren't rock-bottom inexpensive, but are well worth the additional expense for their performance. I'm sure they would be substantially less expensive than any FAA certified aviation product.


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

*Re: New Problem (PanEuropean)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PanEuropean* »_
SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) and Volkswagen both strictly forbid soldering as a method of joining wires anywhere in the vehicle, either during new vehicle construction or during repairs. Soldered connections are vulnerable to breakage due to the vibrations and g loads encountered during vehicle operations. The solder connection itself won't break, instead, the wire will break at the point where the solder ends.


Very good point that I will remember. Thanks for your comment.

_Quote »_
Only crimp connections provide the reliability required. Only crimp connections that have an oxygen barrier provided by an integral shrink with a special coating on the inside of the shrink provide the corrosion resistance required. Shrink-tubing that is not integral to the crimp connection is not acceptable.
Michael

As for corrosion, Scotch 23 tape is wonderful. It is used (among other uses) to splice cables that run in the ground to contain a robotic mower. It is one of the rare reliable methods to get splices that don't corrode.
P.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: New Problem (Zaphh)*

We are still talking about non-critical, internal wires here aren't we??? Or has this moved on to a discussion about critical wires for the braking system that are routed on the outside of the vehicle and come into daily contact with moisture, salt and escape-velocity g loadings????


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

*Re: New Problem (invisiblewave)*

Corrosion is very often a problem in contacts. If a splice can survive in a hostile environment (like damp soil), then it will probably survive in the cosy environment of Phaeton internal wires.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: New Problem (Zaphh)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Zaphh* »_Corrosion is very often a problem in contacts. If a splice can survive in a hostile environment (like damp soil), then it will probably survive in the cosy environment of Phaeton internal wires.

Not necessarily. Wires buried in damp soil are not subject to any movement, vibration, or g loading (unless they are buried in, for example, Chile or Haiti).
Wires installed in a moving vehicle are subject to all of the above three stresses. 
Michael


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

*Re: New Problem (PanEuropean)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PanEuropean* »_
Not necessarily. Wires buried in damp soil are not subject to any movement, vibration, or g loading (unless they are buried in, for example, Chile or Haiti).
Wires installed in a moving vehicle are subject to all of the above three stresses. 
Michael

You are right on mechanical constraints. I was talking corrosion. Soil is a very corrosive environment.


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## JulianBenjamin (Jun 22, 2007)

*Re: New Problem (Zaphh)*

Fascinating discussion on corrosion.
Michael, do you know how to disconnect the actuation release cable for the fuse panel cover from the footwell cover? Do I just pull it out or are there clips? I'm trying to get that piece out, but it's not moving, and the repair manual doesn't specify how to remove it, just that it needs to be disconnected.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: New Problem (JulianBenjamin)*

Hi Julian:
The distal ends of the release cables connect to a latch with two captive pucks. The pucks can be released by rotating them 90 degrees within the latch.
The photo server seems to be down right now, but I believe that there are photos of this assembly on the post "Steering Fault - Workshop" message - here's the cause and the solution.
Michael


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## JulianBenjamin (Jun 22, 2007)

*Re: New Problem (PanEuropean)*

Thanks Michael. I'll try this weekend and see if the wires are pinched.


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## Solipsism12 (Feb 18, 2008)

With regard to the issue of corrosion - as someone who has owned several Citroen DS models over the years (yeah, I know, not the same thing) I have to tell you that wires and connectors seem to be able to corrode anywhere in a vehicle - inside, outside, under the hood, in the trunk - I do think that it is likely that the wire insulation has improved substantially since the stuff that Citroen was using in the 1960s and 1970s - but with those cars, you could find corrosion on the copper two or three feet up the wire from the connector end - the wiring fell apart faster than the bottoms of the recycled steel doors. One reason I know about the marine products - rewiring a Citroen DS.


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

*Re: (Solipsism12)*

How true !
The last time I drove my DS, I saw some smoke coming out of the dash board, just behind the steering wheel. Removed the cover (held by a couple of screws), and the smoke comes from the wiring loom that goes to the dashboard... Didn't take care of it yet, but quite annoying... I'll need to get it to my Citroen dealer (who is a DS/SM/... specialist, so I'm really lucky).
P.


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## JulianBenjamin (Jun 22, 2007)

*Re: New Problem (PanEuropean)*

Michael,
I must be slow, as I still can't figure out how to detach those two cables.
Another question for you, as the pictures don't really show where that connector goes; does it go under the fuse-panel (if so, is that really all I need to remove), or does it go somewhere further down the steering shaft?
Thanks again for your input.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: New Problem (JulianBenjamin)*

Hi Julian:

I found some photos in my collection that might help you out. The first photo (below) shows one of the cables that attaches to the fuse box cover release handle fully assembled (that is the one on the right), and one of the cables partially disassembled (the one on the left). 

All that remains to be done with the cable on the left is to slide the cylinder assembly out via the slot that is visible.

Note that it is a tricky job to disassemble these cables. It's not difficult, it's just tricky. The black collar assembly around the end of the cables is a friction fit (a snap-fit) into the circular assembly on the release handle. You just gently push it up and out to get it to the partially disassembled state. It is handy to have a metal pick (as shown) to push it up and out, otherwise, you'll bust your fingernail if you try to do it by hand.

Needless to say, make sure all the plastic parts are warm (room temperature) before taking them apart. Don't try to do the work outside if the vehicle is cold-soaked.

Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: New Problem (PanEuropean)*

The photo below shows the next step in the process, with both of the release cables freed from the handle.

Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: New Problem (PanEuropean)*

Below is a wider angle photo that shows you what the whole assembly looks like after you have removed the fasteners that retain this footwell top cover, but before you begin to disconnect the two cables that are illustrated above.

Michael


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## JulianBenjamin (Jun 22, 2007)

*Re: New Problem (PanEuropean)*

Thanks Michael. Now I can see how to remove it; I wasn't sure how it was connected, but since it's just a snap-in, it should be easy to snap it out. The weather is warmer here in NY these days, so it shouldn't be so bad; if it is, I'll just do it right after I get home when the interior of the car is warmer.


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## fprien (Apr 21, 2006)

*Steering Fault*

Hi Julian. 
I have exactly the same problem. I have to let the Steering Wheel retract fully to avoid the "Steering Fault" message. 
Did the electrical harness thing solve the problem? 

Rgds, Frank Prien


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## JulianBenjamin (Jun 22, 2007)

*Steering Fault*

Frank,

Two wires were almost cut through. However I couldn't figure out how to use the new wire connectors, so I did it the old-fashioned way with electrical tape. Works fine now.

-Julian


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## fprien (Apr 21, 2006)

*Steering Fault*

Thanks Julian, what a releaf. As Michael has told us, then the "Steering Fault" problems are apearently most often related this electrical wirering. I will start to look into it. 

If I against the now favorable ods ends up with huge bill for a new streering column, then I will your all now.  

Rgds, Frank


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## PH8TON (Sep 1, 2010)

*Thanks from a newbie!*

Just wanted to thank you guys for the info posted here and everywhere in this forum. This is the place to come for help.

Had the ¨Steering Defective Workshop¨ message light up over the weekend while running an errand. Impossible to start it so I Left the car overnight. After consulting the forum, I went back retracted the steering and it started up as usual. At least I was able to get it serviced without having to tow it. 
It turned out to be as you guys called it; a couple of wires that got crimped. 
Thanks again!


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Archival Note:* Related discussion - Steering Default Workshop.... Battery change...

Michael


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## payday (May 13, 2010)

PanEuropean said:


> The photo below shows the next step in the process, with both of the release cables freed from the handle.
> Michael


I can't seem to find the exact cables that are causing this issue.
This being my only ride it's my only way to work and the photos seem to be missing from this part of the thread.

HELP!!.......


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## WillemBal (Nov 20, 2010)

payday said:


> ... and the photos seem to be missing from this part of the thread


Start reading from *HERE*
You need to put your head almost behind the steering column to see these three wires and connector. Use a small mirror and a torch.
Success!

Willem


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## payday (May 13, 2010)

WillemBal said:


> Start reading from *HERE*
> You need to put your head almost behind the steering column to see these three wires and connector. Use a small mirror and a torch.
> Success!
> 
> Willem


About to try for the 3rd time, hope I see it.


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## payday (May 13, 2010)

payday said:


> About to try for the 3rd time, hope I see it.


I just felt a wire that completely split in 2 but it seems that I have to remove some of the other panels to really get to it. is this true.


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## WillemBal (Nov 20, 2010)

payday said:


> I just felt a wire that completely split in 2 but it seems that I have to remove some of the other panels to really get to it. is this true.


Hi Payday (funny first name!)

Yes, you have to remove several panels. Just start with moving your seat back all the way (that should still work). Then you will have more space to move. Next, the first panel to be removed is a fairly wide one, about knee height when you were sitting in the car. Then remove all the panels which are necessary to get to the lower right corner, right above the gas pedal. I suggest that you print out those photo's first, so that you will have some reference while you are doing it.

The last panel is the actual footwell panel. What looks like tissue, is in fact sound absorbing material. In this photo, you can still see the big panel in place. The technician who did the work for me, in fact first removed the big panel just above it.











In the end, you should be able to pull that connector towards you as indicated on the photo. You need to use repair wires to fix it permanently, as indicated in the referenced posts.

Success!

Willem


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## payday (May 13, 2010)

finally got to it.
They don't make it easy to get to anything on this car (ie oil filter).
the green wire snapped off in the connector. 
about to get my splice on and get this thing back on the road.
It's the connector that directly plugs into the steering wheel which I probably wore our because I sit as far back as possible and the steering wheel all the way extended.
Anyway the pictures make it look like you can repair it without totally removing that lower panel but you must to repair the wire without removing the steering wheel and all the plastic around it.
Also remove the AC vent under the lower panel at the back of the steering wheel.
I'll update when and take pics.

Thanks again for your help.


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## payday (May 13, 2010)

All Done,
Car starts. didn't take it for a ride yet but should be good.
The way the wires are routed for this steering column plugin and the lack of slack would cause this issue on any Phaeton where the owner has his steering wheel set away from the dash. It's just a matter of when. 

Thanks again Willem.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

I think that this problem was corrected towards the end of MY 2004 production. It has shown up numerous times on MY 2003 and early production MY 2004 cars.

It appears that the cars didn't leave the factory with this problem - the problem arises after the cover under the driver footwell has been removed once (for whatever purpose). It is possible that this particular part of the wiring harness has not been secured in such a way that keeps it out of harm's way when the cover is then replaced.

Michael


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## WillemBal (Nov 20, 2010)

PanEuropean said:


> It appears that the cars didn't leave the factory with this problem - the problem arises after the cover under the driver footwell has been removed once (for whatever purpose).


For what particular purpose would a technician ever want to remove this footwell cover - other than repairing these broken wires?
Willem


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

For access to many other components, for example, the HVAC controller, or the hood release mechanism, or as a prerequsite to removing the trim along the side of the transmission tunnel...

Michael


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## seawind3000 (Sep 17, 2010)

I have a new problem! 

I have had the warning come up from time to time and a small movement of the wheel has allowed the car to start up...... not yesterday!!!!!!!!!! I removed the foot well and the fuse panel to expose the 3 wire connector in the bottom of the wheel, it had been repaired before, it now had 3 yellow wires attached to the purple, green and black/orange. So I spliced in new wires and no go, so I took it all apart and opened the bundle the 3 wires came from to look for damage and then re spliced the wires again and still no go,( very frustrating upside down under the wheel) the warning is still coming up. Is there a jumper I can use to fool the car?? 

Mike


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## WillemBal (Nov 20, 2010)

Are you sure that you get the identical message: STEERING DEFECTIVE - WORKSHOP? 

Coincidentally, I had a discussion last week at the dealer with their service manager, following a letter in which I expressed my concerns about some service issues. These issues included the inability of the "mobility warranty" service people to properly unlock the steering wheel while it was towed on a flat bed as well as some other issues.

It was a pleasant conversation, during which the service manager admitted to me that their service technician should have been able to diagnose the problem by himself, if only he had been looking into their HST (Handbook Service Technique). Based on the fault description, he could have found the bulletin describing the symptoms and cause of the problem. 

To my surprise, the problem is not caused by movement of the drivers foot, or by removing and reassembly of the footwell cover. According to the bulletin, the fracture of the wires is caused by repeated movement of the steering wheel column. Most of us probably have enabled the automatic retraction of the steering wheel. That movement causes repeated stress and fatigue of the conductors and insulation, in the end resulting in fracture of one or more wires. 

Since the wires were already repaired, I suspect that the same wires are fractured at some other location. You may want to contact your dealer when your are not able to permanently fix the problem. The case is described in great detail with nice pictures in HST 2022361/1. The release date is 12 March 2010. 

Success, 
Willem


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## seawind3000 (Sep 17, 2010)

I will tap into the wires farther "up stream" and see if I get the same results. Thanks for the fast reply. 

Mike


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## WillemBal (Nov 20, 2010)

Hi Mike, 

Farther upstream, the wires tap into a wire harness. Perhaps one of the repair wires was not properly done, or one of the wires was fitted with too much insulation still on the wire etc. 

With these 3 repair wires fitted, there are now 9 possible bad connections. Did you try pulling each wire to see whether each of them is properly seated? When this doesn't help finding the problem, you might want to measure some resistances. It is not a very comfortable space over there... 

Willem


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## seawind3000 (Sep 17, 2010)

OK so now I'm piling wood around the Phaeton so I can BURN it 

No No not going to burn it, just a thought. 

I have re wired the 3 wires five times now, chased them up stream, they pass the tug test and still No Go. How can I check the module the 3 wires go into? How do I get the car out of park to move it off the road?? Is there a jumper I can fool the car with?? 

I live 5 hours from the nearest VW dealer, 9 hours away from the nearest Phaeton dealer (w/6 hour ferry ride) 

Mike:banghead::banghead::banghead:


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## WillemBal (Nov 20, 2010)

seawind3000 said:


> I have re wired the 3 wires five times now, chased them up stream, they pass the tug test and still No Go. How can I check the module the 3 wires go into? How do I get the car out of park to move it off the road?? Is there a jumper I can fool the car with?


 Mike, 
The 3 wires go into Steering Column Lock Actuator, code name N360. The other ends of the wires go to the Acces/Start J518 control module, which it hidden under the carpet at the passenger side. There is a thread about retrofitting KESSY with a description how to get to this module. (Link given below) You might want to check the continuity of the wires. The pinning of the connector is as follows: 


Pink wire: T81k/16 (pin 16 of connector T81. 

Green wire: T6ak/1 (pin 1 of connector T6) 

Brown/Grey: T6ak/2 (the pin right next to it) 

 

There is a way to move the selector switch to the neutral position. You have to remove the lever and part of your centre console to get access to the park interlock solenoid. The lock/release solenoid is in front of the shifter. There should be something that looks like a button. By pushing on it you can manually free the solenoid and then put the shifter in the N position. 

How to remove the selector switch and the centre console is well described in thread Retrofitting Keyless Start to a North American Phaeton, from step 7 through step 13. This thread also describes how to get to the Start/Acces module. 

Before you decide to doing all this, you may want to put a charger on your convenience battery and let it charge overnight. Just to make sure that your problem is not due to a drained battery. 

Good luck! 
Willem


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## seawind3000 (Sep 17, 2010)

I tried the charger with no luck. I called VW Canada with my delema and they will get back to me today, so I'll wait to hear from them. If I have to transport the car to the dealer (5 hours away) I will check the wire continuity first. 

Thanks, Mike


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## seawind3000 (Sep 17, 2010)

Well it looks like I have to transport the car 5 hours to VW, going in Friday morning....I'll keep you posted. Thank you for all your help, I got the car into neutral so now I can load it. 

Mike


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## WillemBal (Nov 20, 2010)

I’m glad you managed to get the car into neutral. I was just thinking of some possible causes. To name a few: 

Wires mixed up in the connector. The right order should be Pink; Green; Grey/Brown. Below picture is showing the arrangement, with the green wire missing. 
The actuator to which it is connected is defective. 
The wires connect to another connector, which is a black 17-pin connector T17c, which is located behind the instrument panel, left side, pin 7, 8 and 9. Doesn’t seem to be easy to get there and probably it is not worthwhile to remove the instrument panel, because this is just a pass-through connector. The 3 mating wires connect to the Start/Access control unit and are in no way connected to the instrument panel itself. 

The least amount of work to check the wiring continuity is by removing the carpet so you can get access to the Start/Access control unit. IF one of the wires is broken, then you might be able to install repair wires under the carpet. 

I can well imagine that you leave it to the dealer to resolve the problem, since it sounds like it is going to be a big job, without being sure of what the outcome may be. I’m really curious about how this will end and what will be the solution to the problem, so we can all learn from it. Also, I wonder if you might apply for some type of warranty. After all, it is not normal that wiring inside the comfortable environment of a car cabin is prone to wear. Lastly, when you talk to your dealer, please inform him that on 12 March 2010, a service bulletin was released with the code 2022361/1. There may be a prefix, perhaps something like TS (technical service). My dealer in the Netherlands calls it the "Handbook of Service Technique", a collection of bulletins with the latest information about specific problems and how to repair. I have seen the bulletin myself as my service manager showed it to me, but unfortunately forgot to ask for a copy. It gives a lot of information about the nature of the problem and possibly contains some additional and vital information of which we are not aware yet. 

Willem


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## seawind3000 (Sep 17, 2010)

Thank you so much for the info, I will ask about the TS and I will let the forum know the results of the fix. 

Mike


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## rushcoil (Apr 17, 2011)

How did it go?


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## seawind3000 (Sep 17, 2010)

The dealer had to do a static discharge to be able to "talk" to the on-board computer. The wire fix was fine, the car was just tired of me playing with it, so it shut down. The steering fault is now long behind me and the transmission now won't play nice, it's in limp mode and I'm waiting for my Vag-Com to arrive to try and correct it, or it's another 5hr trip to the dealer for a fluid flush and re-fill or a new valve body or a new controller or a new tranny...... probably the one with the most $$$$$$ 

thanks, Mike

This is my first post back from the dealer, titled " a new beginning"

A short time ago... in a city five hours away...... the vw dealer said my computer was in "lock down" and their scanner could not communicate with the car. They were on the phone with VW Canada and they could not resolve the problem, but they were working on it .... at $99.95/hr. So I went to hook up my car trailer to head back home, leaving my Phaeton at the shop. I went back inside the garage to get someone to guide my truck back to hitch the trailer and the mechanic had my car "running' I asked him how did he start it, he said he disconnected the battery's and did a static discharge and the computer cleared the "steering fault Workshop" code. It took a trip around the lot to clear all the lights on the dash and we loaded the car on the trailer for my happy trip back home, another five hours. So, this morning the car starts and runs great. This afternoon, I get a "traction control" and "ABS" light, after a restart they go away. Two starts later and they come back on as well as the "engine" light and there is NO gear position in the middle screen and the tranny is in limp mode, one gear only ( feels like 3rd). So do I disconnect the battery's again and do the static discharge and hope for the best, or is this deeper than I think? Voltage on the comfort battery is 12.22v.

Mike


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## BellaLisa (Jul 24, 2012)

*Thank you!*

My Father has a Phaeton and this thread just saved him over $2,000! A VW dealership in Milwaukee, WI wanted to replace the entire steering column. I found this site and shared the info. with the service woman and sure enough, all it took was to repair the wires just like you posted. So, thank you very much.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi BellaLisa,

It's so nice that you took the trouble to post! This is certainly a great repository of information and experience, I've learned a lot.

Chris


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Photos have been re-hosted.

Also, for Phaeton owners in Europe (more specifically, Phaeton owners outside of North America), attached are the first 10 pages of *Campaign 97J9*. Criteria 1 in this campaign specifically addresses how to prevent these wires from getting pinched.

Michael


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## adventmedia (Jul 20, 2014)

I'm having this problem as we speak on my 2004 V8 Touareg with 120,000 miles. It has never done this before and late last night I it was in the garage and did it when I was leaving. The car will not start, stuck in the garage next to a wall. Today is Sunday so no one was open so dealing with this tomorrow. Not doing anything myself so going to have it towed to the VW dealership or another VW service shop. Anything I should know ahead of time before taking it there besides showing them this thread? ANY help is much appreciated it, thanks.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi,

Sorry if we have not been of much help on this one. If for some reason your dealer can't figure out your problem we'll try and do what we can to assist in analysing a VCDS scan, given a full report of the symptoms.

But, in general, the Touareg forum folks are pretty up to speed on that vehicle.

Good luck,
Chris


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## adventmedia (Jul 20, 2014)

I forwarded this thread to the VW mechanic and they said it was not the issue. They are saying the steering column needs to be replaced and is going to cost me $1,975.00 out the door. 

The car was not getting power to accept a scan for any codes of any type. The CD player and Lights powered up but aside from that, the car is in some type of safe mode. I really need help on this tonight or tomorrow or I'm going to have to replace the steering wheel column. If someone can come up with the solution to this without me having to have the steering column replaced I will pay you very generously, very serious about this but it needs to be quick!


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

I don't think we are particularly avaricious in this forum; if there is a solution to be had you are welcome to it for free!

I am not aware of any kind of 'safe mode/shutdown mode' on this electronics platform. If the diagnostics cable cannot talk to the diagnostics interface processor inside the in-dash instrument panel then the latter is not powered up. If it's powered up but can't reach any controllers then either they are not powered up, or else something is dramatically blocking communications on one or all of the data buses. If the issue is lack of power supply to all the controllers then something is either wrong with the power controller or its power cables, or a major fuse or power breaker has blown. This assumes that the battery system is working adequately well to actually run everything.

I suppose it is possible that some circuit in the steering column has shorted out and the controller has removed power, but since the only piece of diagnostics information we have to go on is the fact that you can't start the car but the lights work and the CD player has power we are clutching at straws here.

If you care to give a little more detailed information we will put our thinking caps on. For example: Can you lock and unlock the car using the remote fob? Can you insert and remove the ignition key? Do you get any discernible reaction when you turn the key (dash panel symbols lit, clicking noises etc)? With the ignition key turned on, can you physically pull the gear selector out of Park while the brake pedal is pressed? If you have the Keyless Entry option, can you unlock the car in the normal keyless way?

What do the Touareg folks at that end of VWVortex have to say about it?

Chris


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

adventmedia said:


> The car was not getting power to accept a scan for any codes of any type.


There is a documented VW procedure for dealing with that problem.

If a car comes into the shop and there is some kind of problem with the ignition switch, steering column, etc. that prevents terminal 15 power (the power that comes on when the ignition is switched on) from being turned on, it won't be possible to do a diagnostic scan because one cannot scan controllers that have no power applied to them, as is the case when the ignition is off.

So... on all VW products, the solution is to depress the brake pedal for 20 continuous seconds. The brake lights always have power, even when the ignition is off (this is called terminal 30 power... terminal 30 is direct from the battery, terminal 15 is switched via the ignition switch). If the brake pedal is held down for 20 seconds, power will then be supplied to various 'mission critical' controllers to enable a diagnostic scan to be carried out, including the steering controller.

The brake pedal can be released after the 20 seconds has passed, it is not necessary to hold it down during the scan.

Michael


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## Michaelmiracle (Nov 21, 2014)

My P is in the VW dealer today. They got the no start problem when trying to program a new key I ordered. They also want to replace the steering wheel for over $2000. I told them it's happened before and to retract the steering wheel. They tried it and it does't work to get it to start again. Now I'm stuck with dealing with them, oddly enough it isn't a benefit to get stuck at the dealer. I sent them the info on this link but the service guy sounded wary of 'something from the internet'. 
I have been having this problem lately but wasn't able to find the 3 wires when I looked. Also my windshield wipers would not work at times, different times than when the Steering Fault Workshop would come on. This morning, in fact, when I took it in the wipers and washer weren't working, but it started fine several times by the time it got into the shop. Are the wipers part of the bundle or of the 3?

Not sure what happens next. They are going to look for the wires but at 125/hr and not knowing what they are looking for I'm not feeling too good about it.

Michael


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## Michaelmiracle (Nov 21, 2014)

Well they found the broken wires, Hurray! Wish I had found them when I looked last week. But still having trouble getting the computer to respond. Need to keep it over night. If anyone has a thought about this next layer let me know. They actually have a P specialist on staff and have only seen this problem once before and they changed the steering column as a fix. Thanks to the Forum, I may get out of this one alive.
Michael


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## Michaelmiracle (Nov 21, 2014)

Just to complete, the final cost was 1 hours labor plus 2 wire splicers for 10.99 each. Way better than the $2000+ they quoted for a new steering column. Thank you all for the information on this forum. 
Michael


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## bbernau (Mar 4, 2015)

*2004 VW Phaeton 4.2 Steering Defective Workshop! Yeah!!!*

Hello everyone. I've been reading a lot of your post especially Michael's. I purchased a used Phaeton in January of 2015. I took it to the dealer for an oil change. Two days later my splash shield fell off while driving on I75. 3 days after that my car started to over heat in sub zero temps in Detroit. I took it to a mechanic, he said the bearings on a few pulleys were bad (turning the water pump)and changed them out. However, upon picking up the car(and a dollar short) just as mentioned by previous posters the infamous "Steering Defective Workshop" light came on and now the car is sitting in a parking lot close to where I live. Anyway, it's been a comedy of errors, however, I'm a Phaeton enthusiast and am going to give it a shot trying to see if there is a wire issue and try fix it myself. I'm starting to develop a fear of taking it somewhere, only to have another issue surface. Thank you for the post. 

Barry


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Barry,

Welcome! It is a fabulous car, so after the teething troubles are corrected I hope you can cheerfully develop that 'Phaeton grin' as you drive!

I feel that investing in a VCDS scanner (formerly VAG-COM) might be a good option. It is a window into the car and also assists the help available from fellow forum members, and can be used to somewhat control the garage bills by being informed and helping to direct the Tech's efforts.

Chris


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## bbernau (Mar 4, 2015)

*Steering Default Workshop!*

Hi Chris,

thanks to all the post. My friend and I fix it. Though it was areal pain in the arse! Trying to post pics for others. My green wire was snapped clean. We cut all three wires pulled the harness and my friend who is an engineer at Borg Warner soldered the new wires in the harness connector. Then crimp and shrink wrapped to the existing wires. I have to say being 6'2 and getting under there was no easy task but did sve a ton of money. Thanks to all for the post.

Barry


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## dcnaz1973 (Apr 16, 2015)

do you remember the exact order of wire colors? we ended up pulling the connector and ordering a new one along with wires since they were all cut at the end, we took the metal clips out and forgot to mark their places inside the connector...any help is appreciated...also why disconnecting this thing won't make the car start? isn't it an airbag connector? that's what i heard


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

This problem has just afflicted me for the second time. The first time the dealer "fixed" it because I couldn't remove the panel under the steering column, the black plastic panel behind the panel that drops down to reveal the fuses. This time I persevered, found the trick to the panel removal, and did it myself.

1. You MIGHT get lucky, if you have really, really small hands and arms and are able to reach up behind the panel and get the connector out. Get on your back, stick your head down adjacent to the brake pedal, remove the three black torx bolts holding the flimsy black cover above the pedals in place, then stick your hand up above the two thick, grey wires that go to the fuse cover release handle. The offending wires should be right there, a thin bundle. Follow them directly aft, they clip into the bottom of the steering column. You unclip the connector by squeezing the edges and pulling, it takes very little force to pull it out, so if it won't come you're doing it wrong and you might have to follow the rest of the procedure instead. If you can get the connector out, there should be enough spare wire to pull it out and do the job without any further dismangling, if not, follow the rest of the instructions.

2. Flip the fuse cover down.

3. Get your head down the bottom again and remove all the torx screws you can see just above the pedals. 

4. Remove the two silver torx screws directly underneath the steering column, these hold on the trim surrounding the steering column. Remove that trim (it's the bit that runs around the edge of the dash).

5. Remove all the torx screws you can see at the top of the panel, there should be 5 obvious ones, 3 large, 2 small with rubber stops.

6. Pull the parking brake handle out and look underneath it. Remove the two small torx screws.

6. The whole panel, the back panel plus the drop-down trim should now come away (it might already have dropped). I don't recommend removing the drop down panel separately unless you have to because of the soft-fall mechanism (mine was broken, thanks a lot VW).

7. Once that's off, the offending wires should be immediately obvious, they attach to the very bottom face of the steering column, if you have the wheel "down and out" you can easily get to the connector.

8. Find the broken wire, fix it, then put it all back together. Check it's working before you reassemble.

Here are some pics. On mine, all the wires were yellow, which may be because the dealer replaced them rather than replace the whole loom (expensive), one wire had a very, very small defect that exposed about half a millimeter of bare wire, I used Bondic to seal it then wrapped it well with tape. When you reassemble, you'll see that if the wires could be held in place towards the pedals, there wouldn't be enough slack for them to get caught in the mechanism.


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## boreal (Aug 18, 2005)

I feel like I just won the lotto. A week ago the steering workshop warning and buzzer started coming on when the car was cold. I was planning a long trip so I scanned the car and got a n360 fault code. Great panic followed!!
As always, when you want to know what to do......you check out the Phaeton Forum. One broken and one pinched wire found,repaired and all was right with the world again.
Thanks Michael,wherever you are and all the other good folks here for great advice. Breaking down on the road in the middle of nowhere would not have been pretty.
You guys rock!
Bill


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## Lonndog (Mar 20, 2018)

*RE: Steering Fault/Failure Workshop*

Hi all.

Well I was the recent victim of the dreaded Steering Fault/Failure Workshop alert on my 04 North American Silver/Grey 117,500 miles 4.2L V8. this is the largest issue we've had since our purchase....wait for it..... 4 months ago. yeah me. Thank you to the people posting all the possible resolutions i.e. crippled wire etc. After all the testing and time I ran across a shop out of Australia, EMD Automotive in Taren Point NSW. Look him up on YouTube. It's very interesting. Based on what I learned from the EMD video there's a PCB that controls one of the issues to bring on the code N360. 

I couldn't get the shop to give me a quote on what is would cost for his services. but I believe, with a little help from the rest of the forum I believe we could start fixing these problems. Why bother you ask? I just spent $2250.00 US to fix the issue.

There has to be a way of testing the PCB at the test points and come up with a testing procedure.

I have close up pictures to post of the PCB and the column but am unable to post them. Please let me know.

Cheers

Lonnie


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Lonnie,

Welcome to the forum!

It would be great to see your photos. You can PM (Private Message) me using the forum facility and I can help post them. PM is in the pop-up menu that appears when you click someone's username at the left of a post, at least in the forum desktop software.

Also in that menu is the facility to add your country etc to your Profile, so that your car regional build is visible for folks to help narrow down comments.

Can you advise what to search for in relation to that EMD Automotive video? I can't pin it down in Google.

Regards,
Chris


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Lonndog said:


> Hi all.
> 
> Well I was the recent victim of the dreaded Steering Fault/Failure Workshop alert on my 04 North American Silver/Grey 117,500 miles 4.2L V8. this is the largest issue we've had since our purchase....wait for it..... 4 months ago. yeah me. Thank you to the people posting all the possible resolutions i.e. crippled wire etc. After all the testing and time I ran across a shop out of Australia, EMD Automotive in Taren Point NSW. Look him up on YouTube. It's very interesting. Based on what I learned from the EMD video there's a PCB that controls one of the issues to bring on the code N360.
> 
> ...


Lonnie,

Is the PCB inside the steering controller that's riveted to the steering column? 

There are probably documents telling what is expected at the test points, but they are proprietary. I know we can get descriptions from some manufacturers but not what goes on inside the box and not even the pinouts (apart from what can be gleaned from the Bentley current flow diagrams). 

I know Bosch is very tight lipped on what goes on inside their controllers and other components. They, like VW, put out "training" materials that tell you what each component is supposed to do but not how the component does its job. They are great troubleshooting aids for LRU level troubleshooting.* 

To determine the correct readings at the test points would require a good controller opened up, powered up and working correctly under each of its operating parameters.

We may get lucky and the PCB has notes on it for what to expect at each test point but don't count on it. (Voltage levels or waveforms expected.)

The PCBs on my Plasma TV don't have specifications for the test points but there is a sticker on the TV chassis itself for the voltages expected at the test points at different PCBs. The PCBs themselves only have labels for voltage levels at the connectors. 

We would have to find somebody willing to drill the rivets out of his working steering controller and pry it open then either probe it from under the dashboard or make a harness to extend the wiring so the controller could be put on a workbench while still hooked up to the car.

It's possible that companies that repair automotive control units have information on typical test parameters. If you can find somebody who repairs Phaeton or Bentley Continental steering controllers that would be a good place to start. They would probably not want to share the information.

It's not an insurmountable task but would require a lot of upfront resources. I know I don't have enough Phaetons to experiment on one. 

* LRU stands for "Line Replaceable Unit" which is an Air Force term for the boxes of a system that is removed and replaced to make a system Fully Mission Capable (FMC). The LRUs go back to the shop or to depot for repair. 


-Eric


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> To determine the correct readings at the test points would require a good controller opened up, powered up and working correctly under each of its operating parameters.
> -Eric


I am reading SSP 273 right now and it appears that the steering controller merely unlocks the steering column so there should only be one operating parameter to check.

That's if it's called the "Electrical-Mechanical Steering Column Lock (ESL)".

See page 14:

http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_273_d1.pdf

-Eric


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## Lonndog (Mar 20, 2018)

*RE; Steering Fault / Failure Workshop*

Hello again.

Thanks for the welcome. I'm going to take Chris's advise and PM him with all the pictures I have. There was no core on the old column so I was able to get it back. I'll take a bunch of pictures showing the entire superstructure. 

Thanks Chris


Eric,

EMD Porsche Specialist is the YouTube site. Just punch it in the search bar. He does all Euro models as well. 

Happy viewing.

Lonnie


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Lonndog said:


> Hello again.
> 
> Thanks for the welcome. I'm going to take Chris's advise and PM him with all the pictures I have. There was no core on the old column so I was able to get it back. I'll take a bunch of pictures showing the entire superstructure.
> 
> ...


Lonnie, I think I misunderstood you. 

If the wiring is good and the fuses are good and you have good voltage to the controller but incorrect or nothing out, you can try removing the PCB and sending it to him or another company that repairs automotive electronics. 

They don't need to know what the test point voltages are. They assume the customer knows nothing and like any other technician will check it themselves anyway. 

I can see wanting to know it's definitely bad before buying a brand new column but a repair should only be a few hundred dollars US at most. 

I guess you were referring to the Cayenne videos. I was concerned that he didn't use ESD safe procedures or tell customers to use ESD safe procedures when they send in the PCBs. I'd hate to take my PCB out of its Faraday cage and send it in only to have it fail in a few years due to hidden ESD damage. 

The video was pretty low quality but I didn't see any test points on that Cayenne PCB. 

He was also saying to get one from eBay. As far as I know, the controller needs to be matched to the Phaeton if you change it. 

I await your pictures. 

-Eric


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## AJL44 (Mar 23, 2015)

PanEuropean said:


> *Re: New Problem (Rowayton)*
> 
> OK, *NOW *I recognize what has happened.
> 
> ...


Apologies for resurrecting an old thread. My W12 is displaying this problem. I've stripped off the various panels but cant find any connector which looks like the one in the pics. Can anyone tell me precisely where I should be looking?


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## AJL44 (Mar 23, 2015)

So, I've poked around with all the wires under the dash and in the vicinity of the rear of the ignition barrel and when I did so it caused the Steering Fault message to pop up. Also, it now releases the auto steering lock when I put the key in and the dash lights up as it should when you turn the key. It's definitely looking like a wiring problem. Thing is that it still won't allow the car to start when you turn the key.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

I have had a hard time finding them on my Phaeton also. I don't know if I was ever able to see it. I bought a used steering column on eBay and you can see where the connectors are in relation to the column and look under your dashboard to see yours. I think you have to get the under dash covers out of the way. I bought a good harness on eBay from Germany to use if mine ever has this problem. I won't have to splice, just replace the harness. However, to replace the harness the entire steering column has to come out. The harness wraps around the steering column.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

AJL44 said:


> So, I've poked around with all the wires under the dash and in the vicinity of the rear of the ignition barrel and when I did so it caused the Steering Fault message to pop up. Also, it now releases the auto steering lock when I put the key in and the dash lights up as it should when you turn the key. It's definitely looking like a wiring problem. Thing is that it still won't allow the car to start when you turn the key.


Oh, the ignition switch is not anywhere near that connector. It's at the bottom of the steering column. Did you move the steering column out and in again to see if the wires make contact again?


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> Oh, the ignition switch is not anywhere near that connector. It's at the bottom of the steering column. Did you move the steering column out and in again to see if the wires make contact again?


Right, the only way to clearly see them is to get on your back and slide your head up by the pedals.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Here's the 7zap picture of the 2004 harness but it's not as installed:

individual parts - Phaeton(PHAE) [EUROPA 2004 year] (7zap.com)

#10 is the wiring harness for the ignition switch. The connector #12 connects to the central wiring set. That sounds like it plugs into the main harness but I'd have to check the wiring diagrams. It may plug into the steering column harness.

individual parts Phaeton (PHAE) 2004 year Volkswagen EUROPA 971085 (7zap.com)


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Here's a brand new column harness (AC revision - check with dealer if it's appropriate for your VIN.)

Genuine VW Phaeton wire set 3D0972072AC | eBay

Brand new RHD ignition switch harness:

Phaeton 4motion Adapter Cable Loom 3D2971068 Brand New Genuine | eBay

Used one:

VW Phaeton D1 Ignition Barell Switch Adapter Cable Loom 3D2971068 | eBay


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## AJL44 (Mar 23, 2015)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> Oh, the ignition switch is not anywhere near that connector. It's at the bottom of the steering column. Did you move the steering column out and in again to see if the wires make contact again?


Yes, tried that but moving the column doesn't seem to do anything. It's just suspicious that the Steering Fault came up when I was poking the wires behind the ignition key barrel and the ignition lock came off.


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## AJL44 (Mar 23, 2015)

invisiblewave said:


> Right, the only way to clearly see them is to get on your back and slide your head up by the pedals.


Cheers. where exactly is it located though? Say, in relation to the brake pedal or some other fixed feature?


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

This is looking up from below the dash, keep in mind this is a LHD car. The connector is at the steering lock (the silver parts with the part # sticker). This is with the steering column in the fully retracted position.









Here's closeup when the steering column is extended. This car had the wires already repaired by a previous owner.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Here's my spare column with wiring harnesses installed.


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## AJL44 (Mar 23, 2015)

Phaetonlvr said:


> This is looking up from below the dash, keep in mind this is a LHD car. The connector is at the steering lock (the silver parts with the part # sticker). This is with the steering column in the fully retracted position.
> View attachment 202128
> 
> 
> ...


Ah-ha, I see what you mean now. Thanks very much. I'll check that out as soon as I get the chance.


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## AJL44 (Mar 23, 2015)

So, I've found those wires. They are definitely not pinched in any way and look perfectly fine, as far as I can tell. 

The car still didn't display the "Steering Fault Workshop" message when I unlocked it and was finding that connector. It did do it again, however, when I poked around behind the ignition barrel. That, by the looks of it, is where the wires from that connector start? The yellow wrapped ones in the pic of the new steering column above. 

Also, the car is now displaying a solid red door alarm light for a few seconds when you lock it before it goes to flashing. My V8 does that but I never got to the bottom of why.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

My spare column is used.

The yellow wrapped good wires are for the airbag. Those plug into some yellow connector under the dashboard. The connectors are also unique. The other connector also plugs into something under the dashboard. I didn't remove it. It came from Germany via eBay.

My info may be outdated but the wiring repair manual says to use yellow tape to wrap repaired wires. But those yellow wires above are for the airbag.

Repair wires are also yellow. That's why the repaired connector on Stephan's Phaeton has yellow wires.

If you have yellow wires to the ignition switch, those are probably repair pigtails. If the wiring hasn't been repaired, the ignition switch harness should be wrapped with black cloth tape. 

The ignition switch wires are probably in the same vicinity as the steering column. The column moving may bump into the ignition switch harness. It's probably pretty crowded in there.

I don't know that they connect to the steering column but I'd have to look at the wiring diagrams. 7zap says one connector on the ignition switch harness goes to the central wiring set.

7zap doesn't show any connector on the column harness going to the ignition switch or to the central wiring set. The little harness to the steering column adjustment switch also goes to the central wiring set.

I'd wiggle the wiring plugged into the ignition switch and go from there.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

It also sounds like your column harness may not be plugged in or the screws may have cut into the harness.

I don't know if it's in this thread but there is a Technical Service Bulletin to replace the screws holding the lower cover (AKA "clamshell") because some screws were too long and cutting into the column harness. That's relatively easy to check. You remove the lower cover and see if there is damage.

I don't have any ideas about the red door alarm light. I don't think that's related. A scan would probably be helpful.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

AJL44 said:


> So, I've found those wires. They are definitely not pinched in any way and look perfectly fine, as far as I can tell.
> 
> The car still didn't display the "Steering Fault Workshop" message when I unlocked it and was finding that connector. It did do it again, however, when I poked around behind the ignition barrel. That, by the looks of it, is where the wires from that connector start? The yellow wrapped ones in the pic of the new steering column above.
> 
> Also, the car is now displaying a solid red door alarm light for a few seconds when you lock it before it goes to flashing. My V8 does that but I never got to the bottom of why.


Solid red on mine indicated a problem with the starter battery.


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