# MK3 Cluster MFA Functions with a MK2 CE1 USA MFA Stalk



## Deezy (Jan 3, 2009)

So as titled I am trying to splice in the MK3 Cluster MFA switch into my MK2 CE1 USA spec MFA stalk. 

A little background

1988 GTI 16v CE1 US spec.
with 
1996 GTI VR6 CE2 Mexico

Piggyback Relay panels with the CE1 running lights...
CE2 runs engine.

I have thought about a simple push button on the dash somewhere to make the mfa switch but then i realized my car had MFA to begin with and the stalk has the switch! Bingo!

Here is what i have come up with so far.


T7a Connector II (Black), Side II
23 T7a/2 MFA Switch- Function Green/Black

(Doesnt match MK3)






-------------------------------------------------------------------
T7 Connector I (White), Side I

3 T7/3 MFA Switch- Mode Gray/Yellow----MK2

TO--

V/03 MFA Switch (Mode) Gauge Cluster (MFA) Blue/Yellow---MK3
--------------------------------------------------------------------
T7c Connector II (Black), Side I

15 T7c/1 MFA Switch- Reset Gray/Red--MK2

TO--

V/04 MFA Switch (Reset) Gauge Cluster (MFA) Yellow/Red--MK3
--------------------------------------------------------------------

This is basically what I came up with. It may not reset I don't know I haven't tried. The red/blue/white/black connector comes directly off the MFA stalk. 



Here is the finished product. 








This works. Mk2 USA spec MFA stalk spliced into the ce2 wiring.


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## Deezy (Jan 3, 2009)

So... These colors don't seem to make any sense for the mk2. Its really hard for me to judge heads or tails since I don't have the vr6 cluster yet. The 4 cylinder cluster I have right now doesn't have MFA function. But there's a 4 wire connector just like a PC power connector coming from the MFA stalk and I'm certain the black is ground. The white is switch... 
Will come back to the topic when the cluster comes in. 
Just got lights working to my cluster tonight. Jumped 1 wire from connector to ce2 panel. I've had the swap over a year with no cluster lights :-(
Now that my vr6 cluster is coming in I have the itch to fix everything.


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## Eric D (Feb 16, 1999)

Sorry I can't help you with the wiring.

The 4 pin connector is used for mileage correction (some cluster programmers support it via a matching cable)


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## Deezy (Jan 3, 2009)

Eric D said:


> Sorry I can't help you with the wiring.
> 
> The 4 pin connector is used for mileage correction (some cluster programmers support it via a matching cable)


The 4 pin comes off the right stalk? When I press MFA the white line grounds out. 
That makes sense as too what the other two wires are.


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## Deezy (Jan 3, 2009)

Update. Finished  


In case anybody wants the info.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Deezy said:


> 1988 GTI 16v CE1 US spec.
> with
> 1996 GTI VR6 CE2 Mexico
> 
> ...


I know you solved your issue and I don't mean to question the whole build, but why would you do that? The USA wiring system (it's not CE1, it's completely different, but a lot of epoiple call it CE1 since it's the same timeframe as CE1 in Jettas) is not ideal, to say the least, and CE2 Mk2s are fairly common. Why not just swap the whole thing? It jsut seems like you make a lot of extra work for yourself this way, as well as making it extremely difficult to diagnose problems. If you're curious about how easy it is, I made this:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5430894-CE2-Swap-DIY-(harness-sources-basic-components


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## Deezy (Jan 3, 2009)

I'm not going to rip out my dash because the colors don't match. Everything works now. Wiring can be simple. I personally understand the wiring of my car and that's all that really matters.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Deezy said:


> I'm not going to rip out my dash because the colors don't match. Everything works now. Wiring can be simple. I personally understand the wiring of my car and that's all that really matters.


I wasn't saying that because the colors don't match. Just offering an easier suggestion for a swap, and so it'll be more OEM in case something goes wrong. But if you're ok with a bee's nest of wires for the engine swap, then so be it. BTW the dash removal is really easy, and takes about 10 minutes


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## Deezy (Jan 3, 2009)

The only downfall to my wiring is the 2 relay panels that are half used. The us spec thinks the car is running 
My next swap will for sure be a ce2 complete swap because I already own the ce2 mk2.
If I swapped to ce2 I would have either... 
Spliced into us spec wiring or run wires front to back, tail lights, head lights... The only wires i ran back was the fuel pump wiring. 
I opted for maybe 4 wires jumped from panel to panel? All engine plugged into ce2


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Deezy said:


> Spliced into us spec wiring or run wires front to back, tail lights, head lights... The only wires i ran back was the fuel pump wiring.


A lot of people think that, but, locating a CE2 Golf rear harness isn't much of a challenge and it requires no splicing at all. In the case of the swap you would remove all wiring in the car and transplant the parts you need from the cars you need. Have a look at the link I posted, it goes into pretty close detail :thumbup: 


if you're going to do a hybrid sort of swap (CE2 engine harness in a non-CE2 car), you can also do that without the CE2 fuse box. The wires from the CE2 engine harness to the fuse box can be spliced into/replace the US wiring engine harness without the need for a second fuse box.


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## Deezy (Jan 3, 2009)

There's a ton of ways to skin a cat, I found my way. 

It works for me. :-D


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