# Twicepardoned Turbo Golf Project



## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

Tried not to jump the gun too soon but alot of the pieces have arrived via mail so I figured I'd start sharing the photos and plan.
The car in question:








Pretty decent looking all in all. I will be eventually going with a Euro style wide mouth front bumper to accomodate a larger FMIC but for the time being I am going with a 27x7x3.
I bought a T3/T4 63/50 gonna keep it at the stock IW setting of 8psi.
It'll have a 2.5" V-band downpipe... 3" intake and 2.5" IC piping.


















The things I haven't yet purchased but will before the installation are the Innovative Motorsports LC-1 w/gauge and a 'yet to be determined' brand of WMI.
I am currently running a 50 shot of Nitrous oxide, dry.
Now concerning the 'goals', On the dyno I am hoping to get 250/250 and on the track I am hoping to run low 13s. I might be asking for too much there but I can hope at least.
On a side note I pulled the T25 that was on my 300zx and a 13T off of a friends WRX... You gotta see these pics
































http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by twicepardoned at 3:45 AM 8-26-2008_


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Good stuff!
Damn man your MK3 is clean.


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (Jay-Bee)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jay-Bee* »_Good stuff!
Damn man your MK3 is clean.

Thanks. It's a new paint job. BUT I already ditched the stock hood for a carbon fiber cowl hood... I know I risk being flamed by saying that BUT once I get the new CF hood painted black to match it'll look really good (I think CF on black looks extremely gay)
I also need to redo the hatch. It was rusted on the inside so I need to either replace it or redo it all together. Either way I'll be going badgeless front and back in the process.


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

Ran outside for a quick photo. This is the 'new' CF cowl hood. I will be painting it black eventually.


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## bobsled (Aug 25, 2006)

*FV-QR*

that turbo is huuuuge. when do you think youll see boost with that thing? 4-5k?
everything looks good so far tho nice work


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

Not really that big, just big compared to T25s and 13Ts hehehe. 
I'll be in positive pressure around 1.5 and probably hit 8psi around 3.5-4


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## WindsorJetta8v (Mar 13, 2001)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*

you will prob hit boost arround 3200. im running a 50 trim and hit arround 2800-2900
looks good so far only thing i would have done different is gone with a name brand quality turbo, I learned that the hard way unfornately my ebay turbo blew seals and cracked journal bearing after 600mi in 7 days, i always thought they cant be as bad as everyone makes them sound to be, but my advice would be to do a name brand turbo, kinetics just ran a sale for 449.25 on their t3/t4s glad i got down on that!. sorry if i missed it but are you running C2 or stand alone?


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

I think the nitrous should help the spool a bit but if I hit full boost at 3.2 I'm happy
C2 42lb chip
I'm a skeptic about the turbo thing as well but as long as it gets proper oil pressure I think it 'should' be ok.


_Modified by twicepardoned at 6:45 PM 8-12-2008_


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## WindsorJetta8v (Mar 13, 2001)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*

yea you never know, you may be one of the lucky ones....so when you going to start ripping her apart?


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## sgolf2000 (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: (WindsorJetta8v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WindsorJetta8v* »_kinetics just ran a sale for *449.25* on their t3/t4s glad i got down on that!. 

damn i payed 561 a year ago


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## nab5126 (Dec 4, 2007)

*Re: (sgolf2000)*

subscribed http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## sgolf2000 (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: (nab5126)*

add a mbc to the list, caue you will want more than 8psi pretty quick


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## nab5126 (Dec 4, 2007)

*Re: (sgolf2000)*

mbc's make things fun, just dont turn it up too much


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (nab5126)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nab5126* »_mbc's make things fun, just dont turn it up too much









Actually I'll probably end up increasing the N2o and WMI before I bump up boost anymore. Once I get new rods and pistons I'll start pushing the boost up. Till then I think I'll just keep tuning for N20 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## WindsorJetta8v (Mar 13, 2001)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*


_Quote, originally posted by *twicepardoned* »_
Actually I'll probably end up increasing the N2o and WMI before I bump up boost anymore. Once I get new rods and pistons I'll start pushing the boost up. Till then I think I'll just keep tuning for N20 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

whats the point of adding water/meth if youre not increaing the boost? the point of water/meth is to supress detnation so you can safely run more boost...


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

*Re: (WindsorJetta8v)*

It also lowers temperatures, some people run it at low boost levels without an intercooler.


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## WindsorJetta8v (Mar 13, 2001)

*Re: (Jay-Bee)*

yes, i know but i thought he was planning on an IC


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (WindsorJetta8v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WindsorJetta8v* »_
whats the point of adding water/meth if youre not increaing the boost? the point of water/meth is to supress detnation so you can safely run more boost...

First, I do eventually plan on running more boost but for now the WMI has more to with the N20 than anything.
The WMI is nothing more than me trying to keep the timing advanced.
On 8psi and 50 shot I think 250 whp is easily achieveable without a worked head. But what are the possibilities if I can hit it with a 100shot and WMI at the same time?










_Modified by twicepardoned at 6:50 PM 8-23-2008_


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*


_Quote, originally posted by *twicepardoned* »_
I doubt I need to give a lesson on nitrous increasing piston temps.


LAWL WHAT??
NOx decreases combustion temperatures!!!

"Nitrous oxide is stored as a compressed liquid; the evaporation and expansion of liquid nitrous oxide in the intake manifold causes a large drop in intake charge temperature, resulting in a denser charge, further allowing more air/fuel mixture to enter the cylinder. The lower temperature can also reduce detonation."


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## sgolf2000 (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: (Jay-Bee)*

works well in balloons too


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

*Re: (sgolf2000)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sgolf2000* »_works well in balloons too









Mmmmmmm whip-its... now that takes me make to Jr High School.
BTW sgolf2000 your sig is funny as hell, I love the only thread in that forum: "What engine does this car come in?" hahahha


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (Jay-Bee)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jay-Bee* »_
LAWL WHAT??
NOx decreases combustion temperatures!!!

"Nitrous oxide is stored as a compressed liquid; the evaporation and expansion of liquid nitrous oxide in the intake manifold causes a large drop in intake charge temperature, resulting in a denser charge, further allowing more air/fuel mixture to enter the cylinder. The lower temperature can also reduce detonation."

Sorry you are correct. The piston temp decreases while the exhaust temps increase. 
The idea that Nitrous will 'melt' pistons does have more to do with timing than temps, so I know what you're saying.
All I am trying to get across is, rather than using a wet kit to control the det I am going to use WMI. It should be extra helpful in gaining as much timing as possible without risking a damaged motor.


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## boglog42 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*

Sounds dangerous playing around with the dry nitrous and WMI, lots of extra stuff to manage. The reason nitrous melts pistons is because it has double the o2 by volume than air. If you don't have enough fuel to compensate, it leans out, burns super hot and melts a hole instantly. Adding compressed air to this equation without increasing fuel, major danger. 
WMI will artificially reduce your intake temps and make the gas harder to burn (raise the octane rating). Because your ecu will run more advance from cooler temps, and since there's less risk of detonation (high octane), the knock sensor doesn't pull the timing like it normally would in high compression/turbo situations. However, WMI won't make the nitrous any less flamable. Obviously this will partially negate the effect you're going for with WMI, and possibly cause a major explosion. 
On a positive note, I have had that same turbo for quite some time with good results, but I bet you won't spool to 8psi till almost 4k. Everything looks good though, keep it up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

*FV-QR*

IMHO a dry nitrous shot is a VERY dumb idea... sorry dude, but that's the only thing I see wrong with your setup.


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## nab5126 (Dec 4, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Jay-Bee)*

yeah, i looked into nitrous before i decided to go boost, but imo i would set it up with a 50 shot of wet controlled so it sprays 2.5-3.5k, that way it wont be laggy, because when not in boost its still a 2.slo


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (Jay-Bee)*

It's dry 'now'... it will be wet once I add the WMI.
I have sprayed the 50 shot tons of times since I installed it and never once had any det or a cel for that matter. It is perfectly safe. If I go up to 100 (which I do plan on) I will only be doing so with a little timing retarded and WMI.


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## boglog42 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (twicepardoned)*

Sounds good to me, but obviously you must be joking saying it will be "wet" with WMI. This will be an interesting endevour. I hope it works out for you.


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (boglog42)*

No I'm not joking at all. In fact USRT was talking about a similar thing just a little over a year ago. Not that they are the standard or anything but I know I am not imagining this.


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

Went ahead and purchased the LC-1 Wideband. I'm pretty excited about that because I have been talking to some locals about Megasquirt. So if I can find some local help on a megasquirt setup that's what I'll end up doing in the long run.
Apparently the LC-1 is useable with the Megasquirt... cool


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

FMIC and piping showed up...
















Expecting the downpipe material and wideband sometime midweek.


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*

Some more stuff has arrived... All the downpipe material, minus the wideband o2 bung.








The silicone reducers for the turbo as well (This is alot more expensive when you do it properly)








And for kicks... the car has been pulled into the garage. I should be starting this project in the next couples weeks. SO I might hand up the keys starting tonight???








BTW which one do you think would win??? heheheh


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*

Got a little tear down action going on today.
Removed the hood, intake manifold, headlights and bumper.
















Step one for me is going to be getting the turbo in and start laying pipe. Of course the pipe routing is going to be partially based on the FMIC placement so I am prepping for that. I may get flamed for what I'm doing but I'm chopping a little out of the front beam. (See below)
Once I remove the 'green area' I'll box in the top and sides to fortify it at least. 








One last pic for good measure, nothing interesting except a prtty cool profile shot.


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## WindsorJetta8v (Mar 13, 2001)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*


_Quote, originally posted by *twicepardoned* »_. 











a little piece of advice, move the pass side of the rad back an inch and cut up about another inch like almost between the 2 bolt holes and your ic will line up perfect with the lower line of the bumper and you wont have to hack the fins out totally and make it ugly.
also id send that bov back and pick up a 1.8t bosch
also extend the side cuts to thoes oppen box sections of the rebar, or you wont be able to route your piping properly(you will see wht i mean when you get there) 
i bought that same piping kit http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif kinda regret getting the black now, looks like it was gone over with like 1 quick coat of krylon. good luck










_Modified by WindsorJetta8v at 5:31 PM 8-25-2008_


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## the_q_jet (Mar 19, 2005)

oh nice...you finally manning up!


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (the_q_jet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *the_q_jet* »_oh nice...you finally manning up!









My wife didn't want me to use her car as a DD while I did this, so I sold my Rock Crawler and bought a DD Jeep. This way I am in no rush and can really take my time getting fitment right.
I should be getting some more work done tomorrow.
The only issue I'm incountering now is the DP bolts are tight as heck ugh


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## sgolf2000 (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*


_Quote, originally posted by *twicepardoned* »_
the DP bolts are tight as heck ugh

pb blast them b's


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

Yeah that's what I'll end up doing.
In fact when I head home for lunch I'll probably end up doing that so when I get home they've soaked for a few hours.


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

Ok, the header/manifold came off fairly easy. I used a stubby wrench and a combination a pry bar leveraged against the head to make the first turn. Once they were broke loose I was able to remove them easily.
Basically my day consisted of mock up work, during which I discovered the 45 degree reducer off the outlet side of the turbo is not gonna work without hitting the Throttle Body.
I also discovered that the reducer off of the Intake side of the turbo is basically right where the AC is on the firewall. Temporarily I am simply removeing the AC from the firewall until I come up with a different plan.
The Turbo and the Manifold fit without any destruction of the firewall, I guess I don't know what the fuss is about fitment???
I do need to clock the turbo still but like I said "This is the mock up stage for me".
























As you can see I remounted the intake tube and Manifold, again for fitment mock up.


_Modified by twicepardoned at 1:41 PM 8-27-2008_


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

I decided to pull the AC system. I removed everything so far, except for the compressor. Anyone know of a way to bipass the compressor? Maybe a kit?
If not I'll end up leaving the compressor in and have to hoses or condenser


_Modified by twicepardoned at 2:22 PM 8-28-2008_


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## boglog42 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*

There is a "delete kit" I've seen for ~$100 from various sources that comes with a new belt and maybe a trash bag for your old stuff. I had the same grim realization with my AC but ended up cutting and rotating my turbo flange up about 10* to go over the top of the lines. Also I think you'll find that when you try to cram your downpipe in there it will be completely running into the lines for your heater core so you may want to think about moving those too. I installed the same turbo and fitting everything was not easy.


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (boglog42)*


_Quote, originally posted by *boglog42* »_There is a "delete kit" I've seen for ~$100 from various sources that comes with a new belt and maybe a trash bag for your old stuff. I had the same grim realization with my AC but ended up cutting and rotating my turbo flange up about 10* to go over the top of the lines. Also I think you'll find that when you try to cram your downpipe in there it will be completely running into the lines for your heater core so you may want to think about moving those too. I installed the same turbo and fitting everything was not easy. 

Yeah I was getting more concerned about the downpipe the more I looked at it. Even if they don't touch I'm nervous that the close heat could still melt the hoses.
BTW I read your whole build thread. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## boglog42 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*

Keep up the good work, it will definetly pay off when you get that sucker running. When I got my downpipe in there at first it was ~1/4 away from the heater hose. It's still close but I moved, cut, and clamped till it was about 4" away and have not had any problems.


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (boglog42)*

Updates:
Well I am having some second thoughts about the intercooler all together. On the pro side, it looks great! I fit it in there really nicely, looks good. Even routed the piping in good fashion minus the need for an extra 45 degree coupler.
My 'thoughts' are that the piping is too long and eventually will rub through the aluminum . Maybe not but I think for now I am going to finish the project in a non-intercooled way and then once the WMI shows up and gets installed I'll turn up the boost then.
Hopefully the flame session doesn't start








Here's the progress note:
Wideband O2 showed up, started making the downpipe, installed 42lb injectors, clocked the turbo and completed the mock up piping.
A few things I need still: 3" 45 Degree pipe, 2-2.5" 90 degree coupler, hook up the oil pressure to the turbo and drain fitting to the pan.
Pics


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## WindsorJetta8v (Mar 13, 2001)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*

first, you got an intercooler and youre not going to use it? i had like 10+ feet of piping and my waistgate is a 7psi and i saw 7psi at the intake manifold on my first setup and it worked fine, when my car was un-intercooled with the kinetics stg 1 setup 20 min driving in the heat and the piping was heatsoaked like a mother, the water meth is going to help, but its not magic, its not 100% going to take the pace of the intercooler. atleast give the IC a shot since you have it
second the turbo sits very close to the firewall just like mine and WILL VIBRATE on it under hard acceleration and iha ve the bfi FULL kit of mounts also youre gunna have to do something about it, unless you can take the annowing vibrating above 4krpm,








looks good so so far http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (WindsorJetta8v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WindsorJetta8v* »_first, you got an intercooler and youre not going to use it? i had like 10+ feet of piping and my waistgate is a 7psi and i saw 7psi at the intake manifold on my first setup and it worked fine, when my car was un-intercooled with the kinetics stg 1 setup 20 min driving in the heat and the piping was heatsoaked like a mother, the water meth is going to help, but its not magic, its not 100% going to take the pace of the intercooler. atleast give the IC a shot since you have it
second the turbo sits very close to the firewall just like mine and WILL VIBRATE on it under hard acceleration and iha ve the bfi FULL kit of mounts also youre gunna have to do something about it, unless you can take the annowing vibrating above 4krpm,








looks good so so far http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

I understand it sounds like I'm beoing a pansy by avoiding the FMIC now but I'm not sure I care though. 
The only true downside I see to going without the FMIC is that I will be 100% dependent on having a full bottle of WM. If that did ever run out I would be 100% fuked. Were as with the FMIC+WMI I would have a little bit of det if I ran out of WM but would probably be able to save my ass in time.
Ehhh....
Yeah the Turbo is DEFinitely touching the firewall. I did end up turn thewastegate around because the nipples were facing outward and touching even more. So this way I saved myself the fear of bustin the WG hoses.
Thanks for the feedback. I know my pipes will be hot as heck since I assume I will be injecting the WM closer to the Manifold. Oh well


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## WindsorJetta8v (Mar 13, 2001)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*

yea just do some more homework on the water Meth I have an idea I've been toying with if it works out. I'll let u in on it but this should cut the total liength of my charge pipes down to 3-6 inches


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (WindsorJetta8v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WindsorJetta8v* »_yea just do some more homework on the water Meth I have an idea I've been toying with if it works out. I'll let u in on it but this should cut the total liength of my charge pipes down to 3-6 inches









Sounds like my long term goal... A turbo + SRI - FMIC + WMI = Really short piping that should still be able keep det down and timing up.


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## 2point1s (Sep 18, 2005)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*

I remember looking into buying this car when it was for sale to bad you had to go and start pulling it apart it was a very clean car.


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## WindsorJetta8v (Mar 13, 2001)

*Re: (2point1s)*

what exctally do you mean by "the piping is too long and will eventually rub through the aluiminum?


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (WindsorJetta8v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WindsorJetta8v* »_what exctally do you mean by "the piping is too long and will eventually rub through the aluiminum?









Sorry, my English was bad... I put 2 seperate ideas into one statement.
1. The piping is too long
2. The fitment is so tight and touching all over the place that I think eventually the shaking would rub through the piping somewhere.


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (2point1s)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2point1s* »_I remember looking into buying this car when it was for sale to bad you had to go and start pulling it apart it was a very clean car.









Honestly you would have been slightly disappointed when you showed up. Many small issues that went unmentioned in the ad. There was no chance he would ever sell it for what he was asking, seriously.
The rust on the hood was BAD... the rust on the hatch is BAD... one rust hole behind the driver seat is BAD, all the way through.
The paint was nice BUT laid right over top of un prepped metal. The 'new' paint job is bubbling EVERYWHERE. Unless it is stripped and treated the longterm here is that the car will rust to death.
The 'reverse that makes noise' is actually NO reverse. It shakes to hell and I swear to you the engine would fall out if you actually tried to back out of a parking space. I literally park everywhere so that there is no need for reverse.
The interior is perfect, suspension is perfect, motor is perfect, wheels are great but don't be fooled... I am NOT tearing down a 'mint' car.


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## 2point1s (Sep 18, 2005)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*


_Quote, originally posted by *twicepardoned* »_
Honestly you would have been slightly disappointed when you showed up. Many small issues that went unmentioned in the ad. There was no chance he would ever sell it for what he was asking, seriously.
The rust on the hood was BAD... the rust on the hatch is BAD... one rust hole behind the driver seat is BAD, all the way through.
The paint was nice BUT laid right over top of un prepped metal. The 'new' paint job is bubbling EVERYWHERE. Unless it is stripped and treated the longterm here is that the car will rust to death.
The 'reverse that makes noise' is actually NO reverse. It shakes to hell and I swear to you the engine would fall out if you actually tried to back out of a parking space. I literally park everywhere so that there is no need for reverse.
The interior is perfect, suspension is perfect, motor is perfect, wheels are great but don't be fooled... I am NOT tearing down a 'mint' car.










Got ya I guess the pictures made the car look way better then it truly is. Good luck on the build. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (2point1s)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2point1s* »_
Got ya I guess the pictures made the car look way better then it truly is. Good luck on the build. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

ya, like I said though lots og great things about the car but the 'cleaness' of it all is interior and driving on the highway. Up close it is flawed to all hell.


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## bobsled (Aug 25, 2006)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*


_Quote, originally posted by *twicepardoned* »_
Sorry, my English was bad... I put 2 seperate ideas into one statement.
1. The piping is too long
2. The fitment is so tight and touching all over the place that I think eventually the shaking would rub through the piping somewhere.

not sure what you mean by the piping is too long? you can always cut it down.
fitment is actually not very tight at all even in my cluttered mk4 engine bay. just do it while you have everything apart.
may not think you want and IC until you feel the difference between the turbo to IC pipes, and the IC to TB. especially with that big turbo, you are gonna have pretty high temps in the boost piping


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (bobsled)*

Here's the FMIC mock up:

























Here's the 'blue print' for the intake pipe I'll have bent tomorrow:








And a pic of the FMIC:


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

For the record, the battery fits fine BUT the bottom/inside of the headlights do rub on the piping. So, I am going to rig the lights a little.
The other thing is that the bottom vent of the bumper touches the FMIC so I'll have to modify it as well.
That is all dependent on using an FMIC. I'm just not convinced that the benefits could not simply be had with WMI alone.


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## bobsled (Aug 25, 2006)

so whats the problem? that looks great. weld up the pipes at the straight blue coupler up top if you can


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (bobsled)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bobsled* »_so whats the problem? that looks great. weld up the pipes at the straight blue coupler up top if you can

The problem in my mind is that it seems like the piping is really long. It also seems ghetto as heck... I don't know. I guess I should give it a shot and see what happens but I get this feeling I am going to be blowing couplers off.
As for aluminum welding, no I don't have any means to do that. I could probably convert my Mig but ehhhh...


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## WindsorJetta8v (Mar 13, 2001)

*Re: (bobsled)*

i have the same piping setup you can fir everything i only had to make one cut
































you can buy the pipe closest to the tb with the bung from kinetic for under 100$ shipped and it fits perfect i only spent like 3 hrs throwing that together and didnt put much thought into it, its about the best unniversal kit there are enough pipes in that CX racing kit to build 2 turbo pipes i built mine and a 1.8t ic setup with the pipes , that was my origional setup its much cleaner now, no pics at the moment tho
how you gunna plumb the greddy into the intake? and where is that crazy pipe with all the bends going that you have drawn out?


_Modified by WindsorJetta8v at 7:13 PM 9-1-2008_


_Modified by WindsorJetta8v at 7:13 PM 9-1-2008_


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## bobsled (Aug 25, 2006)

youll have trouble blowing off anything at 8psi as you said your gonna run in your OG post. just make sure the clamps are nice and snug. im sure you wont rub through the pipes unless their against sharp steel edges or something. even then i doubt it. it would be good to minimize the amount of couplers you use though.
the piping really isnt even all that much longer than if you ran a loop for a non IC setup.


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (WindsorJetta8v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WindsorJetta8v* »_how you gunna plumb the greddy into the intake? and where is that crazy pipe with all the bends going that you have drawn out?

What Greddy?
The bent pipe is the intake pipe, for the MAF and Filter.


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## the_q_jet (Mar 19, 2005)

you better drive yo azz to Ocean City this year!


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (the_q_jet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *the_q_jet* »_you better drive yo azz to Ocean City this year!









Kind of far to drive without AC








I could tow there but with gas prices it would be difficult to make that decision.


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## 2pt. slo (Jan 4, 2004)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*

pfft....the not having AC is no excuse.....ive dailyed my car for 3yrs now without it. and its the end of sept...


----------



## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (2pt. slo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2pt. slo* »_pfft....the not having AC is no excuse.....ive dailyed my car for 3yrs now without it. and its the end of sept...

hahaha








Well I am EXTREME allergies, cat 6, and I am a naturalist (no meds) so I have to suck it up during the Fall when they are the worst. I could trailer it without a major issue but seriously gas is crazy right now.
From here to the Northwest has gotta be a 2 day drive at 8-10 hrs a day. I mean it takes 9 just to get to Chicago, 9 to get to Nashville... so no matter what way I go it's a long trip for a GTG


----------



## sgolf2000 (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: (2pt. slo)*

weather has been pretty nice lately too


----------



## ZakuII (Nov 10, 2007)

I want your cars and go kart!


----------



## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

Anyone know which plugs and gap I should be using?


----------



## WindsorJetta8v (Mar 13, 2001)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*

im using cheapo autolites gapped at .24 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif no issues 8k miles tuboed and counting


----------



## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (WindsorJetta8v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WindsorJetta8v* »_im using cheapo autolites gapped at .24 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif no issues 8k miles tuboed and counting

Cool! Is .24 the standard for turbo?


----------



## the_q_jet (Mar 19, 2005)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*


_Quote, originally posted by *twicepardoned* »_
Cool! Is .24 the standard for turbo?
 .024~.028 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (the_q_jet)*

OK Here's the update:
Today I spent a good 3 hours working on the downpipe... Always measure twice and cut once BUT ultimately you just cut it long and take a little off until it fits like you want.
Lots of pics here... the only prt left to work on is the issue of a 'to Cat' or 'not to Cat'. Ehhh
Once I had the flange angles figured out I made a rough cut and tacked it up








Fitment is good from the top
















Little long from the bottom though








As you can see here the pipe isn't centered enough because the pipe drops down a bit too much.








Vs after it was cut down and refitted








Here's the pipe tacked together
















As you can see it fits GREAT from the top








Here's with the fles pipe in place as well.









All that is left is getting a Cat to fit in.








Hope you enjoyed, I feel very good about the pipe. Once I get a good cat in there and a weld it to the flex pipe the down pipe will just clamp to the felx pipe. That should make it MUCH easier to work on in the future. 
As it is, the stock pipe is ridiculous to get out unless you cut the pipe OR drop some subframe stuff.


----------



## 2pt. slo (Jan 4, 2004)

watch those rad hoses next to the downpipe. they will melt. also you might want to shift a few times and make sure that it wont interfere with the shift linkages they look close as well. looking good though man get this done


----------



## the_q_jet (Mar 19, 2005)

*Re: (2pt. slo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2pt. slo* »_watch those rad hoses next to the downpipe. they will melt. also you might want to shift a few times and make sure that it wont interfere with the shift linkages they look close as well. looking good though man get this done
no they wont...ask me how i know


----------



## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

Brings up alot of science questions...
The heat may not melt it all the way through BUT the weakened tube could potentially burst when the coolant gets 'too' hot


----------



## bobsled (Aug 25, 2006)

ive noticed mine is about 3mm away from the downpipe. i was thinking about trying to push it away but im not sure if thats gonna put even more stress on the hose


----------



## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

Well mine is more than 3mm. Here's what I did. I loosened the bracket that holds the 'hard' tube in place, then I simply pushed it over. That way it 'bent' the bracket not the hard tube. So mine is a little over and inch away.
Honestly I am not concerned but if I start to see the hose deteriorate quickly I'll probably go with wrap on the pipe and a shield on the hose.


----------



## 2pt. slo (Jan 4, 2004)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*

mine is decently close as well i did the same thing you were just aling baout with the bracket. it started to melt just a big but has not gone further and seems fine i was just throwing it out there to see if you had thought about it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (2pt. slo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2pt. slo* »_mine is decently close as well i did the same thing you were just aling baout with the bracket. it started to melt just a big but has not gone further and seems fine i was just throwing it out there to see if you had thought about it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif









It's cool, it's one of the things I like about this place... constructive criticism.
We're all helping each other out.
Now I just need to move to the East Cost to get to these massive GTGs


----------



## the_q_jet (Mar 19, 2005)

mine rest on the dp and has been for the last 30k+ miles...no problems..EVER *knock on wood*


----------



## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (the_q_jet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *the_q_jet* »_mine rest on the dp and has been for the last 30k+ miles...no problems..EVER *knock on wood*









WOW... Well I'll leave mine at the inch+ away and if I don't have any problems then I'll just leave it there.
For the record guys: I decided to use the stock Cat for the time being until I can afford to get a High flow. I am wanting to keep this car street legal for bragging rights.


----------



## 2pt. slo (Jan 4, 2004)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*

mine is legal. no cel's either.


----------



## the_q_jet (Mar 19, 2005)

the stock cat has been proven NOT RESTRICTIVE in the least...most people cut it at the transition (where it gets larger) to their pipe size and weld it in. no need to waste mullah on a "high flow"


----------



## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (the_q_jet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *the_q_jet* »_the stock cat has been proven NOT RESTRICTIVE in the least...most people cut it at the transition (where it gets larger) to their pipe size and weld it in. no need to waste mullah on a "high flow"

I had a feeling. I do plan on cutting it to butt the 2.5" pipes up together.
Sometimes you gotta wonder... I mean why'd VW buy a bunch of 2.5" cats and transition them down to 2ish??? Odd


----------



## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

Well I broke down and put some more money into this whole thing... I bought the BFI oil pan. I think it was a good buy. Mine had some dings and whatnot. I'll probably end up welding a fitting on my stocker and selling it to get back some of the money. No biggy.
Anyway, I finished welding up the downpipe, just gotta tap a hole for the Wideband and I'll be good.
Someone help me out here: The Wideband O2 should be ______ inches from the turbo flange. The wires of the O2 should point ____.
Thanks


----------



## the_q_jet (Mar 19, 2005)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*


_Quote, originally posted by *twicepardoned* »_Well I broke down and put some more money into this whole thing... I bought the BFI oil pan. I think it was a good buy. Mine had some dings and whatnot. I'll probably end up welding a fitting on my stocker and selling it to get back some of the money. No biggy.
Anyway, I finished welding up the downpipe, just gotta tap a hole for the Wideband and I'll be good.
Someone help me out here: The Wideband O2 should be _>8_____ inches from the turbo flange. The wires of the O2 should point _err...away from the heat?___.
Thanks


----------



## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (the_q_jet)*

hahaha SOmeone was saying to me (and I had never heard this before) that the wideband was most accurate when the sensor was pointing down.?.?.? Sounds stupid to me but maybe there's validity to it???


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

loookin to be a solid car when done! ... keep up the good wrok


----------



## WindsorJetta8v (Mar 13, 2001)

*Re: (carsluTT)*

ttt hury up and finish this thing man! took me a friday afternoon and half a saturday to get mine up and running and drove 35 miles to work on monday


----------



## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (WindsorJetta8v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WindsorJetta8v* »_ttt hury up and finish this thing man! took me a friday afternoon and half a saturday to get mine up and running and drove 35 miles to work on monday
















I'm just not in a huge hurry. I'm waiting for the pan to get here now.

BTW where is the ECU on this car? On my MK4 it was under the rain tray...


----------



## WindsorJetta8v (Mar 13, 2001)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*

its under the rain tray
out of curisoity, why did you opt for the BFI pan for 60 when you got a MIG and could have got a brand new pan for GAP for 18 bux and a bung for 5?


----------



## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (WindsorJetta8v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WindsorJetta8v* »_its under the rain tray
out of curisoity, why did you opt for the BFI pan for 60 when you got a MIG and could have got a brand new pan for GAP for 18 bux and a bung for 5?

GAP???
Heck I could have welded it on my own pan for that matter but I guess I decided to buy a new one and end up selling my stocker or welding it and selling it...??? I don't know *shrug


----------



## nab5126 (Dec 4, 2007)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*

dont torque down the bfi pan too much, ask me how i know lol


----------



## vdubbugman53 (Nov 7, 2006)

i would run .22-.24 on the plugs btw


----------



## WhiteG60 (Aug 20, 2001)

*Re: (vdubbugman53)*

I would have run smaller IC piping. 2.5" is not needed for the level of power you'll be making. 2.25" on the hot side and 2" on the cold side recommended up to about 300bhp. This also helps spool as well. Less volume to fill before the air hits the tB, but still not too small as to restrict flow. 
Looks good though!


----------



## WhiteG60 (Aug 20, 2001)

*Re: (bobsled)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bobsled* »_ive noticed mine is about 3mm away from the downpipe. i was thinking about trying to push it away but im not sure if thats gonna put even more stress on the hose

Easiest thing to do is get some DEI sheathing.
http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku 
Costs $19 and could sae you a huge headache later on.


----------



## vdubbugman53 (Nov 7, 2006)

i had the issue with my shift linkage hitting my DP.....i wrapped them both in heat wrap and solved that issue


----------



## bobsled (Aug 25, 2006)

updates?


----------



## sgolf2000 (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: (WhiteG60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WhiteG60* »_I would have run smaller IC piping. 2.5" is not needed for the level of power you'll be making. 2.25" on the hot side and 2" on the cold side recommended up to about 300bhp. 

dont you mean 2 hot side and 2.25 cold? im in the process of changing my 2.5 hot side(comp outlet to ic) to 2in and leaving ic to tb at 2.5.


----------



## vdubbugman53 (Nov 7, 2006)

at what point does everything go to 2.5 inch


----------



## 2pt. slo (Jan 4, 2004)

*Re: (vdubbugman53)*

idk. but all of my piping is 2.5....intercooler pipes/downpipe/exhaust


----------



## bobsled (Aug 25, 2006)

*Re: (sgolf2000)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sgolf2000* »_
dont you mean 2 hot side and 2.25 cold? im in the process of changing my 2.5 hot side(comp outlet to ic) to 2in and leaving ic to tb at 2.5.

why would you do that? the hot air will need a larger volume. once you cool it down, it needs less volume to flow at the same rate.


----------



## 2.0t mk2 (Dec 23, 2007)

*Re: (bobsled)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## WindsorJetta8v (Mar 13, 2001)

*Re: (2.0t mk2)*

i have 2.5 also and its fine, i notice no lag when i upraded from 2 inches http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*


_Quote, originally posted by *twicepardoned* »_hahaha SOmeone was saying to me (and I had never heard this before) that the wideband was most accurate when the sensor was pointing down.?.?.? Sounds stupid to me but maybe there's validity to it???









It's not for accuracy..Its to keep water out of it..condensation settles in the bottom of the exaust pipe..and you dont want that in the sensor.as it will shorten it's life....so you could........
A= mount the sensor in the down pipe....8 or more inches from the turbo...
B= mount it in the pipework under the car after the down pipe...PRE cat...mount it 90deg to the side or more towards vertical...
Either way is fine......Heep sensor wires far from the pipework and turbo...as it can melt the wires together internaly and render your wide band usless...showing little to no signs of external damage....
Ask me how I know


----------



## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

*Re: Twicepardoned Turbo Golf Project (twicepardoned)*


_Quote, originally posted by *twicepardoned* »_
The things I haven't yet purchased but will before the installation are the Innovative Motorsports LC-1 w/gauge and a 'yet to be determined' brand of WMI.
I am currently running a 50 shot of Nitrous oxide, dry.
Now concerning the 'goals', On the dyno I am hoping to get 250/250 and on the track I am hoping to run low 13s. I might be asking for too much there but I can hope at least.


Your goals are easy and you wont need the Nitrous either....
Stock compression...run it at 14psi and your done....
No need for the NOS...
But it's there if you want it
And dont worry the turbo will spool just fine..people are affraid to run anything but the smallest turbos....Noobs
ANd dont worry about the engine...it will go all day long at 25psi with a head spacer..and exede 300whp....and never even sweat it......
So get finished welding all ready


----------



## WindsorJetta8v (Mar 13, 2001)

*Re: Twicepardoned Turbo Golf Project (Salsa GTI)*

yea hes right, plus i doubt youll need the meth with the ic you got, the stock block can deff handle 250 with or without the spacer, a local i know is running 23psi on a stock block with no issues putting down 307 at the wheels
im prolly at 200 or so now and am totally happy there, when i get bored ill get the 440 setup and run more boost. and mabye a head spacer, still deciding if its worth it to me, i just dont feel its necessary unless youre running 20+ psi but thats just my opinon, most think otherwise


----------



## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: Twicepardoned Turbo Golf Project (WindsorJetta8v)*

Been unbelievably busy at work and home... have not gotten one thing done on the Golf at all... ugh
For the record I have the 440 injectors and C2 software for it. In case I had forgotten to mention that at some point.


----------



## AutobahnTuningSolutions (Jan 14, 2008)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*










Please tell me you're not running the flex section like this. The flex has to be straight so when the engine torques it can flex. When you're bending it up like that, it cant do its job and will crack over time.


----------



## the_q_jet (Mar 19, 2005)

*Re: (AutobahnTuningSolutions)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AutobahnTuningSolutions* »_









Please tell me you're not running the flex section like this. The flex has to be straight so when the engine torques it can flex. When you're bending it up like that, it cant do its job and will crack over time. 
you'd be surprised jus how much flex these joints get once heat cycled a few times...he'll be fine.


----------



## AutobahnTuningSolutions (Jan 14, 2008)

*Re: (the_q_jet)*

I know how much flex they really have, thats why Im telling him that it will crack and leak. They're designed to flex once and a while, not constantly. When bent to the point where the motor moves and its too much for the section, they break. Ive seen downpipes like this and people always come in asking for replacement flex sections. It always ends up with them buying a new downpipe thats properly made. 
Im just trying to help someone out and others jump in and offer the wrong advice. This makes others think this kind of work is ok and will continue to make the same mistake.


----------



## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Yeah but you gotta note that it's not finished and welded up yet, it's sitting on a jack-stand, more than likely it will be straightened out a bit when complete.


----------



## vdubbugman53 (Nov 7, 2006)

well id say it is tac welded on there pretty well as those dont bend that easy. i would throw a 45 on it and straighten it out as well


----------



## MaxVW (Nov 4, 2004)

*Re: (AutobahnTuningSolutions)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AutobahnTuningSolutions* »_

Please tell me you're not running the flex section like this. The flex has to be straight so when the engine torques it can flex. When you're bending it up like that, it cant do its job and will crack over time. 


hes not lying this is the reason i am running no exaust at all right now. my flex pipe lasted about 10000 kms and it broke clean off. the metal cant handle flexing like that. trust me it will fail


----------



## bobsled (Aug 25, 2006)

*Re: (AutobahnTuningSolutions)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AutobahnTuningSolutions* »_I know how much flex they really have, thats why Im telling him that it will crack and leak. They're designed to flex once and a while, not constantly. When bent to the point where the motor moves and its too much for the section, they break. Ive seen downpipes like this and people always come in asking for replacement flex sections. It always ends up with them buying a new downpipe thats properly made. 
Im just trying to help someone out and others jump in and offer the wrong advice. This makes others think this kind of work is ok and will continue to make the same mistake. 

this guy does top quality work, id definitely take his advice into consideration at the very least


----------



## the_q_jet (Mar 19, 2005)

*Re: (AutobahnTuningSolutions)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AutobahnTuningSolutions* »_I know how much flex they really have, thats why Im telling him that it will crack and leak. They're designed to flex once and a while, not constantly. When bent to the point where the motor moves and its too much for the section, they break. Ive seen downpipes like this and people always come in asking for replacement flex sections. It always ends up with them buying a new downpipe thats properly made. 
Im just trying to help someone out and others jump in and offer the wrong advice. *This makes others think this kind of work is ok and will continue to make the same mistake.* 
 good point indeed


----------



## 84_GLI_coupe (Apr 3, 2001)

*Re: (bobsled)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bobsled* »_
why would you do that? the hot air will need a larger volume. once you cool it down, it needs less volume to flow at the same rate.

It's suggested to do it like that to create a "low pressure" region after the intercooler, to help suck the air through the intercooler. It's not just VW guys that say that.


----------



## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

Calm down people I was just running a mock setup... That flex pipe is a clamp on piece so I haven't welded anything yet.
Got a bit of work done the other day... Got the ECU out, new chip in, Oil pan on, turbo drain hooked up to the pan etc... Got the downpipe in.
All that's left is to put the FMIC and piping in and hook the plenum back up.
I haven't got the Wideband hooked up yet...


----------



## bobsled (Aug 25, 2006)

*Re: (84_GLI_coupe)*


_Quote, originally posted by *84_GLI_coupe* »_
It's suggested to do it like that to create a "low pressure" region after the intercooler, to help suck the air through the intercooler. It's not just VW guys that say that.

hmm ok i see. do you know of anywhere i could read into this subject more?


----------



## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (bobsled)*

Couple pics and questions:








Can someone tell me the purpose of the 2 seperate nipples on the WG?








C2 Chip installed








Turbo installed








New pan and fittings installed.


----------



## vdubbugman53 (Nov 7, 2006)

i think you will want that turbo clocked straight forward.....that is how i did mine and that is how i have seen a lot of others do theirs


----------



## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (vdubbugman53)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubbugman53* »_i think you will want that turbo clocked straight forward.....that is how i did mine and that is how i have seen a lot of others do theirs

Logically that doesn't make sense to me, so maybe someone can explain to me why?
My thought was: Feed oil from the top, drain from the bottom


----------



## AutobahnTuningSolutions (Jan 14, 2008)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*

I think he means the compressor outlet should be clocked forward more.


----------



## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (AutobahnTuningSolutions)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AutobahnTuningSolutions* »_I think he means the compressor outlet should be clocked forward more. 

Shouldn't make a difference performance wise.
I did the mock up piping and it works for me. Unless there's a reason I am unaware of I'll keep it the way it is.

AS FOR the two nipples on the wastegate, I think that the bottom nipple should go to the turbo and the top nipple should be vented.
Any ideas other than mine?


----------



## vdubbugman53 (Nov 7, 2006)

if your piping works with the cold side clocked like that then your good to go....i couldnt get mine to work when i tried like that. as for the 2 nipples i have no idea i have never seen one like that


----------



## bobsled (Aug 25, 2006)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*


_Quote, originally posted by *twicepardoned* »_
AS FOR the two nipples on the wastegate, I think that the bottom nipple should go to the turbo and the top nipple should be vented.
Any ideas other than mine?

the top is the one you use. bottom is vented. think about it this way, the pressure needs to build on the top so the diaphragm will push the rod out.


----------



## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (bobsled)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bobsled* »_
the top is the one you use. bottom is vented. think about it this way, the pressure needs to build on the top so the diaphragm will push the rod out.

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Thank You very much!
Any idea about the BOV? It also has 2 nipples


----------



## bobsled (Aug 25, 2006)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*


_Quote, originally posted by *twicepardoned* »_
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Thank You very much!
Any idea about the BOV? It also has 2 nipples

if its the type RS style with one on the cap and one closer to the flange, you only have to worry about the top one. hook it up to a line that will see vacuum and boost(intake mani). think of it in the opposite fashon of the wg...needs vacuum to suck it open.
again, pretty sure u can hook the other one up to the line off the turbo (tee between turbo and WG) so the underside of the piston will see the last bit of pressure and engage faster... but you dont need to connect it esp at low boost with no chance of surge.


_Modified by bobsled at 11:21 AM 10-8-2008_


----------



## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

OK, here's some updated pics for today:








All the piping complete








Intake hooked up... just needs a filter now








FMIC in place








Now can someone tell me where this goes?


----------



## the_q_jet (Mar 19, 2005)

intake boot wont like boost....at all...plz change...PLEASE!


----------



## AutobahnTuningSolutions (Jan 14, 2008)

*Re: (the_q_jet)*

Yep, that intake hose will blow. Also, the crankcase won't like seeing boost.


----------



## 2pt. slo (Jan 4, 2004)

*Re: (AutobahnTuningSolutions)*

might want to also get some proper t-bolt clamps..good things never come from those worm style clamps. good work though keep it up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (AutobahnTuningSolutions)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AutobahnTuningSolutions* »_Yep, that intake hose will blow. Also, the crankcase won't like seeing boost. 

Help me address this issue... I wasn't sure why you said it at first BUT I did end up getting the car started and driving and threw the dip stick 20 feet in the air at one point hahahaa SO I need to adrdress the CCP.
BUT without fuirther adeu... (one sec please)


_Modified by twicepardoned at 6:36 AM 10-9-2008_


----------



## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (the_q_jet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *the_q_jet* »_intake boot wont like boost....at all...plz change...PLEASE!

I might do that eventually but for this build build at this second I wasn't worried about it.
Not saying your wrong just saying for now I'm ok.


----------



## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (2pt. slo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2pt. slo* »_might want to also get some proper t-bolt clamps..good things never come from those worm style clamps. good work though keep it up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

I've heard this on every one of my car sites DSM, Z32, NICO etc... but I have no concerns or see a good reason why they suck. They always get a good round grip and don't damage the silicone so I am not sure why people suggest they suck.?.?.?


----------



## AutobahnTuningSolutions (Jan 14, 2008)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*


_Quote, originally posted by *twicepardoned* »_
Help me address this issue... I wasn't sure why you said it at first BUT I did end up getting the car started and driving and threw the dip stick 20 feet in the air at one point hahahaa SO I need to adrdress the CCP.
BUT without fuirther adeu... (one sec please)

_Modified by twicepardoned at 6:36 AM 10-9-2008_


Its because the stock intake boot is connected to your PCV. So when the turbo produces boost it's forcing a lot of air into your crankcase. You WILL ruin your gaskets/seals if you continue doing this. You have to ditch the stock boot and do a proper boost pipe. The PCV then can be routed to either a catch can or the intake pipe pre-turbo.


----------



## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

Just a third gear pull so nothing excessive but suprisingly quick still. Maybe 80% throttle, 8 psi... I'll get a sweeter video a little later when I have a friend who can tag in a car








http://s122.photobucket.com/al...1.flv


_Modified by twicepardoned at 6:49 AM 10-9-2008_


----------



## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (AutobahnTuningSolutions)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AutobahnTuningSolutions* »_

Its because the stock intake boot is connected to your PCV. So when the turbo produces boost it's forcing a lot of air into your crankcase. You WILL ruin your gaskets/seals if you continue doing this. You have to ditch the stock boot and do a proper boost pipe. The PCV then can be routed to either a catch can or the intake pipe pre-turbo.

HAHAHA Holy **** I can not believe I over looked that. No wonder you guys were telling me to ditch the stock boot! Thanks... See I am reasonable but I require explanations like that!
I will be sourcing a replacement immediately!


----------



## spasticone (May 31, 2004)

I bet your development LOVES you.


----------



## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

HAHAHA I knew someone would comment... Most everyone is at work right now. Clint (the guy next door with the Lightning and Z06) could care less. Other than him it's stay at home moms. If I did that in the evening someone would say something to me though.


----------



## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

Took it a little further away from home just now...
Definitely needs a stronger clutch if you plan on putting the pedal all the way down at full boost.
For the record though when that clutch caught it was the tires that at times would break loose!!!!
You know when your driving a RWD vehcile and it kicks out a bit at WOT? Well it was like the steering wheel wants to pull you off the road in a FWD car.
This is my first time driving a fast FWD vehicle so it's a whole new ball game. I am very excited!


----------



## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

OK definitely replacing the stock rubber boot pipe... I had plugged the back of it with a bolt and it blew it out easily. So it idled like crap till I got it home.
No big deal. I'll make something work with the piping in my garage. Just need some more couplers... one in particular that's 45 degree.
I put the bumper back on, doesn't fir right obvously, gotta do some chopping on the inside. Got the headlights and grill in too.
Also leaking a little oil from the oil return bung on the pan. I forgot to use some sealer on the bolt. So it's slow but steady. Under full boost it's probably suirting out though, So I'll be addressing that ASAP.
The car is not yet road worthy for a long drive or race BUT definitely good for showing off.


----------



## WindsorJetta8v (Mar 13, 2001)

*Re: Twicepardoned Turbo Golf Project (twicepardoned)*

couple things
I origionally bought the same piping kit as you and had more than enough piping to do a proper boost pipe and where are all the t bolt clamps it came with you get 25 if i remember correctly.
why aren't your running that sri that wont sell? you would loose that god awful rubber intake boot and also help clean up the bay, that thing is definitely a keeper in this situation .
are you just venting the bov to the atmosphere? could be contributing to the rough idle you mentioned...
definitely do a clutch, the southbend kevlar disk is only like 275 and good for 300 whp.
other than that congrats on getting it up and running, i dunno but i guess i was just expecting a little more watching this thread, but still, a decent start.




_Modified by WindsorJetta8v at 9:58 PM 10-9-2008_


----------



## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: Twicepardoned Turbo Golf Project (WindsorJetta8v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WindsorJetta8v* »_I origionally bought the same piping kit as you and had more than enough piping to do a proper boost pipe and where are all the t bolt clamps it came with you get 25 if i remember correctly.
why aren't your running that sri that wont sell? you would loose that god awful rubber intake boot and also help clean up the bay, that thing is definitely a keeper in this situation .
are you just venting the bov to the atmosphere? could be contributing to the rough idle you mentioned...
definitely do a clutch, the southbend kevlar disk is only like 275 and good for 300 whp.
other than that congrats on getting it up and running, i dunno but i guess i was just expecting a little more watching this thread, but still, a decent start

WTF???








Um... ok I have all the clamps? and you bought the same piping kit PLUS the extra pipe from Kinetics to replace the rubber intake pipe. I'm not sure what you're even sugggesting by this.?.?.?
The BOV is not hooked up at all to the vacuum. It's just looks for the moment.
The bad idle was a boost leak. Not issue, just replacing the inatke boot will make it fine.
I have no diea what you expected but from my build but for the record the car drives great. I am simply hammering out small details to get it running perfect.


----------



## bobsled (Aug 25, 2006)

*Re: Twicepardoned Turbo Golf Project (twicepardoned)*


_Quote, originally posted by *twicepardoned* »_
The BOV is not hooked up at all to the vacuum. It's just looks for the moment.


hey just so you know if you dont hook it up to a vacuum source your gonna have surging problems and probably mess up your turbo. i wouldnt keep it disconnected for too long.


----------



## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: Twicepardoned Turbo Golf Project (bobsled)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bobsled* »_
hey just so you know if you dont hook it up to a vacuum source your gonna have surging problems and probably mess up your turbo. i wouldnt keep it disconnected for too long.

A;though I intend to hook it up, I think it is funny that yesterday you suggested I don't need to.?.?.?


----------



## bobsled (Aug 25, 2006)

*Re: Twicepardoned Turbo Golf Project (twicepardoned)*


_Quote, originally posted by *twicepardoned* »_
A;though I intend to hook it up, I think it is funny that yesterday you suggested I don't need to.?.?.?

i said you only need to hook up the top nipple. that is the one that needs to see vacuum. if you have that hooked up your fine. the bottom one can stay disconnected as i said.


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## WindsorJetta8v (Mar 13, 2001)

*Re: Twicepardoned Turbo Golf Project (twicepardoned)*


_Quote, originally posted by *twicepardoned* »_
WTF???








Um... ok I have all the clamps? and you bought the same piping kit PLUS the extra pipe from Kinetics to replace the rubber intake pipe. I'm not sure what you're even sugggesting by this.?.?.?
The BOV is not hooked up at all to the vacuum. It's just looks for the moment.
The bad idle was a boost leak. Not issue, just replacing the inatke boot will make it fine.
I have no diea what you expected but from my build but for the record the car drives great. I am simply hammering out small details to get it running perfect.










Yes i did have the kinetics piece then i replaced it with 2 pieces i combined from the piping kit because it was a better fit when i went from non-intercooled to intercooled., and just as bobsled said id get the valve hooked up asap, i find it kinda strange that the car is running so well. if the idle IS a boostleak like you stated then replacing that pipe would peobably be one of the first things i would replace since it is one of the most boostleak-prone spots.
Dam man, im just trying to give you some advice and you act like im putting your project down. isnt the reason most people post here so others could try and help catch their faults and fix them?
and what about the SRI, why did you choose against running that is something wrog with it? im shure anyone here would run it if they were in youre shoes and had a halfway decent SRI as you do
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by WindsorJetta8v at 2:19 AM 10-10-2008_


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: Twicepardoned Turbo Golf Project (bobsled)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bobsled* »_
i said you only need to hook up the top nipple. that is the one that needs to see vacuum. if you have that hooked up your fine. the bottom one can stay disconnected as i said. 

This is what you said:

_Quote, originally posted by *bobsled* »_but you dont need to connect it esp at low boost with no chance of surge.

I don't think surge will be a problem at low psi BUT I can already hear the turbo acting wierd when I switch gears so I know I need to hook it up


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: Twicepardoned Turbo Golf Project (WindsorJetta8v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WindsorJetta8v* »_Yes i did have the kinetics piece then i replaced it with 2 pieces i combined from the piping kit because it was a better fit when i went from non-intercooled to intercooled., and just as bobsled said id get the valve hooked up asap, i find it kinda strange that the car is running so well. if the idle IS a boostleak like you stated then replacing that pipe would peobably be one of the first things i would replace since it is one of the most boostleak-prone spots.
Dam man, im just trying to give you some advice and you act like im putting your project down. isnt the reason most people post here so others could try and help catch their faults and fix them?
and what about the SRI, why did you choose against running that is something wrog with it? im shure anyone here would run it if they were in youre shoes and had a halfway decent SRI as you do
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

It doesn't appear that you read what we had been talking about... I never mentioned I was missing clamps but you still said something about how many clamps I had???? The entire first post seemed out of thin air almost. Then you ended it with this comment:

_Quote, originally posted by *WindsorJetta8v* »_i dunno but i guess i was just expecting a little more watching this thread, but still, a decent start 

Maybe I'm defensive but that's seems stupid... not sure what you expected.?.?.?
I am always open to comments and concerns as I have been throughout this all.
I don't want to run the SRI because someone was making me a newer style one BUT they flaked. I have considered using it again, but I am undecided.


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## WindsorJetta8v (Mar 13, 2001)

*Re: Twicepardoned Turbo Golf Project (twicepardoned)*

what I ment saying I expected more was simply it didn't seem like you followed through with everything
You origionally set
Out to do, I guess I kinda worded it incorrectly. For example earlier in this thread you had a drawing of a pipe of
Carboard that you where going
To use but instead you chose to use your stock rubber tube another thing missing was the Sri,
But you just cleared up that In your last reply. Also you don't have the bov hooked and haven't memtioed anythiNg about the widenand either. 
You started this almost 2 months ago and I figured you would have
Gotten all the loose ends tied
Please just don't take my comment the
Wrong way I have slot of respect for people who do there own work and I'm shire
When u get
All the bugs worked out it will be worth the time and money invested
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by WindsorJetta8v at 9:36 AM 10-10-2008_


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: Twicepardoned Turbo Golf Project (WindsorJetta8v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WindsorJetta8v* »_what I ment saying I expected more was simply it didn't seem like you followed through with everything
You origionally set
Out to do, I guess I kinda worded it incorrectly. For example earlier in this thread you had a drawing of a pipe of
Carboard that you where going
To use but instead you chose to use your stock rubber tube another thing missing was the Sri,
But you just cleared up that In your last reply. Also you don't have the bov hooked and haven't memtioed anythiNg about the widenand either. 
You started this almost 2 months ago and I figured you would have
Gotten all the loose ends tied
Please just don't take my comment the
Wrong way I have slot of respect for people who do there own work and I'm shire
When u get
All the bugs worked out it will be worth the time and money invested
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by WindsorJetta8v at 9:36 AM 10-10-2008_

OK No offense taken then. I'll bring it down.
Here's the dealio... The cardboard cutout was for the intake piping NOT the charge piping. (MAF and Filter to Turbo)
I didn't really want to make an issue of it BUT I was sick for awhile and ended up losing 20 pounds as a result. I am 6'2" and normally 185 lbs but I am now 165. Not dying sick but sick enough that eating was very difficult to do. I didn't feel like going outside or doing much of anything.
For the past month I've made a huge turnaround and am getting outside again, gained a few pounds, slowly getting back to exercising and doing things I enjoy (cars and music etc...).
Once I got back to working on the car I just wanted to get it running quick. SO I took a couple days and here we are. I haven't had time to wire up the Wideband yet or make a final decision about the SRI since I haven't spoken with the dude in so long.
One thing I KNOW I need to do is figure out if the wastegate and BOV are working. I could find out quick if I put in a boost gauge. I need to snag one immediately.
The next thing I'd need to do after that is get a clutch installed because that thing WILL NOT do the job. For those reading this that may be unaware let the record show "" YOU CAN NOT RACE OR DRIVE SUPER FAST ON THE STOCK CLUTCH!!!""
It is far too weak and slips like hell. SO I'll be picking that up next in a list of priorities.
(I am confident the AFR is fine runs smooth)
See videos in next post!!!


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## bobsled (Aug 25, 2006)

*Re: Twicepardoned Turbo Golf Project (twicepardoned)*


_Quote, originally posted by *twicepardoned* »_
This is what you said:
I don't think surge will be a problem at low psi BUT I can already hear the turbo acting wierd when I switch gears so I know I need to hook it up


HAHA
well. sorry for being nice and helping you. maybe you should learn to read....THIS is that i said:

_Quote, originally posted by *bobsled* »_
if its the type RS style with one on the cap and one closer to the flange, *you only have to worry about the top one. hook it up to a line that will see vacuum and boost(intake mani). * think of it in the opposite fashon of the wg...needs vacuum to suck it open.
again, pretty sure u can hook the other one up to the line off the turbo (tee between turbo and WG) so the underside of the piston will see the last bit of pressure and engage faster... but you dont need to connect it esp at low boost with no chance of surge.

_Modified by bobsled at 11:21 AM 10-8-2008_
 
how can you expect the bov to work if it wasnt connected to a line at all?


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

Here's my first run today, just a light drive on the highway. Note that the clutch slips a time or two even without WOT.
http://s122.photobucket.com/al...1.flv
This run was a little more spirited. Clutch slips like mad but still has no problem running up to 105mph in a quick beat. Note though, this is NOT WOT and with a stock clutch...
http://s122.photobucket.com/al...2.flv
Enjoy!


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: Twicepardoned Turbo Golf Project (bobsled)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bobsled* »_
HAHA
well. sorry for being nice and helping you. maybe you should learn to read....THIS is that i said:

how can you expect the bov to work if it wasnt connected to a line at all?

I didn't expect it to work if it wasn't hooked up. I got the impression that at low boost it would not be an issue, I know otherwise now. Calm down I'm not trashing you, just trying to understand the information is being given http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

OK here's an update.
I bought a VR6 throttle cable for a good price so I'll be installing the SRI sometime next week when it arrives.
I'm gonna take the SRI down to my work and have one of the maintenance guys sandblast it. The bolts for the fuel rail could stand to be re welded too. Just a smidge loose.
The Throttle cable mount is heavily welded so I'm gonna grind it down a bit for looks sake.
Then I'm gonna have it powdercoated high gloss black.
This should reverse the piping so that the turbo is dumping to the passenger side rather than the driver side because the Throttle Body will be on the Driver side now. SO the piping will be significantly shorter.
Ideally with this setup I could go with an AWIC but I am just not yet there where I think the AWIC is worth the cost.


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## WindsorJetta8v (Mar 13, 2001)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*

im going awic, got a sick ass setup in the works along with some more stuff ...definitely wanna join the 300-on-stock internals club in the spring cuz ive seen it done and know it can be done safely http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif hopefully the awic setup will be done by halloween


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (WindsorJetta8v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WindsorJetta8v* »_im going awic, got a sick ass setup in the works along with some more stuff ...definitely wanna join the 300-on-stock internals club in the spring cuz ive seen it done and know it can be done safely http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif hopefully the awic setup will be done by halloween









Stock head and block?
I plan on building a head forsure. 
An AWIC would be sweet as heck I'll just have to see if it fits in my plan


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## WindsorJetta8v (Mar 13, 2001)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*


_Quote, originally posted by *twicepardoned* »_
Stock head and block?
I plan on building a head forsure. 
An AWIC would be sweet as heck I'll just have to see if it fits in my plan

i thinkin about just finding a lower mileage junkyard motor, cuz mine is nearing 200k and i know stuff is gunna be going soon, i mean for like 250 and a half a day of work its worth swaping out for some piece of mind http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (WindsorJetta8v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WindsorJetta8v* »_
i thinkin about just finding a lower mileage junkyard motor, cuz mine is nearing 200k and i know stuff is gunna be going soon, i mean for like 250 and a half a day of work its worth swaping out for some piece of mind http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Definitely... 
I'm having a hell of a time trying to get the BOV to work??? How the heck do you hook this thing up???
I know for sure it is not working because it causes the turbo to shutter bad. SO I'm not driving it... JUST to make adjustments and try again.


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## sgolf2000 (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*

vacuum pressure from the intake manifold post throttle body


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (sgolf2000)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sgolf2000* »_vacuum pressure from the intake manifold post throttle body

That makes sense...
I didn't even consider tapping into the vacuum side of things... ugh
I guess this BOV is either just a pull design OR since it has 2 nipples it could be a push and pull???


_Modified by twicepardoned at 6:00 AM 10-16-2008_


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## bobsled (Aug 25, 2006)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*

like i said before, it is a pull design as is every bov. hook up the top nipple to vacuum and if you want you can hook the bottom up to the boost pressure off the turbo for a quicker functioning bov


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## WindsorJetta8v (Mar 13, 2001)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*


_Quote, originally posted by *twicepardoned* »_
That makes sense...
I didn't even consider tapping into the vacuum side of things... ugh
I guess this BOV is either just a pull design OR since it has 2 nipples it could be a push and pull???

_Modified by twicepardoned at 6:00 AM 10-16-2008_

find yourself a nice reilable 1.8t diverter valve for free from one of youre buddies that has upgraded theirs in there 1.8t, no adjusting or messing with, just hook up th vaccum lik and go http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (WindsorJetta8v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WindsorJetta8v* »_
find yourself a nice reilable 1.8t diverter valve for free from one of youre buddies that has upgraded theirs in there 1.8t, no adjusting or messing with, just hook up th vaccum lik and go http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

I remember you suggesting this quite awhile ago. If I can't get this unit to work then I'll go that route.


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## AutobahnTuningSolutions (Jan 14, 2008)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*

You can find plenty of Forge DV units for 1.8t's for $50. Works perfect on a VRT I just build.


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

Starting putting the SRI on today. Got the garage cleared out and lots of room to work...


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

Got the SRI installed and took it for a test today... still having some issues.
Just a second after seeing boost the damn thick hits a brick wall.
I am a little clueless, so if you have suggestions throw em out here.
My first step is to boost leak test it.


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## the_q_jet (Mar 19, 2005)

*FV-QR*

spark plug gap.


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## vdubbugman53 (Nov 7, 2006)

log timing pull and misfires


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## the_q_jet (Mar 19, 2005)

*FV-QR*

its his boost blowing out spark. Twice, you should check you gap... run NGK BKR7e and gap them down to .024~.026 they are to be gapped NO LARGER than .028


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

DAMNIT!!!!
ahah I always forget to do something
You're right Q.... I forgot to gap the plugsafter the install.


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

Well they were all gapped .035 and I dropped down to .027 
No real change. I was optimistic at first because it 'seemed' a little better but then just hits a wall again. 
Granted I simply reused the stock plugs.
Maybe I should get the upgraded plugs and go again???
If for no other reason but to simply start a process of elimination.


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

Do you think if I go with Iridium instead of copper it will make a difference?
I figure I should probably get a better spark from the Iridium.?.?.?


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## the_q_jet (Mar 19, 2005)

*FV-QR*

get the NGKs i mentioned. and since you have a mk3 you most likely will have to gap em down to .022 (weaker coil)


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

OK so the basic idea is keep it close...
I've seen ignition upgrades for the MK4 do I have any options for a MK3? and is it even necessary at the levels of power I am looking at?


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## the_q_jet (Mar 19, 2005)

*FV-QR*

err...we dont use ignition upgrades. Anyway you can find a MSD Blaster Coil 2 and wire that in like my friend did on his ABA-T


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

Alright... Got the new plugs in and gapped... It idles and accelrates GREAT!!!!
One big problem left to tackle apparently though. When I hit 100% WOT it falls on it's face.
At 90% throttle it's all good but when you punch it down the sucker literally dies out.
Any thoughts as to why this would happen?
Note: This is a VR6 OBD1 TB


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

Is it possible that somehow the TPS is not working at WOT?
Is there a way to reset the TPS if it for some reason it isn't clocked'? (for lack of a better word perhaps?)


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## the_q_jet (Mar 19, 2005)

*FV-QR*

its very well possible the oem ecu isnt reading properly with that larger TB on there...are you still on stock manifold?


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## WindsorJetta8v (Mar 13, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (the_q_jet)*

why are you running a vr6 tb??


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## 2pt. slo (Jan 4, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (WindsorJetta8v)*

i would switch back to your stock throttle body. this might fix your problem. doesnt hurt to try if you still have it


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (the_q_jet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *the_q_jet* »_its very well possible the oem ecu isnt reading properly with that larger TB on there...are you still on stock manifold?

SRI


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (WindsorJetta8v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WindsorJetta8v* »_why are you running a vr6 tb??

The SRI is flanged for a VR6 TB


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (2pt. slo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2pt. slo* »_i would switch back to your stock throttle body. this might fix your problem. doesnt hurt to try if you still have it

At this point I'd have to build a flange adapter and the silicone hoses I bought cost a bit tyo work with the VR6 TB... so I am not likely to go backwards at this point.


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

So to restate... The car dies at WOT but NOT at 90% Throttle.?.?.?
This sounds like an easy diagnosis since we know the problem is directly related to the TPS... unless there is something I do not know about the VR6 TB and it's 'swapability'


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## 2pt. slo (Jan 4, 2004)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*

obd1 TB in an obdII car just doesnt seem like it would work all the way to me. i had to reuse my obdII TB on my car i know that


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (2pt. slo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2pt. slo* »_obd1 TB in an obdII car just doesnt seem like it would work all the way to me. i had to reuse my obdII TB on my car i know that

It's OBD1 TB in my 1995 which is OBD1


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## 2pt. slo (Jan 4, 2004)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*















my fault....i was thinking this was a different car. idk what the problem is then that doesnt makes sence.


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

I tested for boost leak and the thing is air tight... but I think I may have finally nailed the root of the problem.
I took the TB off and found that the entire inside of the manifold is coated in GAS!!! Literally... actually gas, not a drop but a coating thick... pooling in the corners.
Here's my thought. The fuel rail that came with the SRI may not be stock setting and could be a higher pressure. So when I hit WOT it is flooding the engine. Since there is pressure still it is spraying fuel back into the manifold
Just a thought.
I am trying to find out what FPR it is but so far have had no luck.
Anyone know what these numbers might be: 04010 or/and 8583



_Modified by twicepardoned at 5:09 PM 11-23-2008_


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## pilon_01 (Feb 17, 2007)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*

use zex plugs there a cold plug and are great, you dont have to gap them i use them on my 2.0T, they are pricey tho


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## WindsorJetta8v (Mar 13, 2001)

*Re: (pilon_01)*

what the heck happened youre giving up?


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (WindsorJetta8v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WindsorJetta8v* »_what the heck happened youre giving up?


(I'll post it here too I guess)
Naw... I wouldn't have given up so quick BUT The Wrangler I bought isn't tagged and I've been driving it like mad (I love those now) but I didn't tag it and got a ticket just the other day. So I need money to pay for the tags and ticket... which is now plural because I got a second ticket last night. No speeding just for tags and displaying illegal tags (off my previous Jeep Cherokee).


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*

i would say the Tps signal is getting grounded at WOT.Break out a good ohm meter connect to ternimals(1 and 3?no quite sure)Look at your resistance values compared to those of the 2.0 tb
I would say you should try another TB


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## 2pt. slo (Jan 4, 2004)

*Re: (pilon_01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pilon_01* »_use zex plugs there a cold plug and are great, *you dont have to gap them *i use them on my 2.0T, they are pricey tho


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (Daskoupe)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Daskoupe* »_i would say the Tps signal is getting grounded at WOT.

This is the problem. I had the Nitrous system hooked up off the TPS WOT wire previously and did not tape it back up enough http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*

what do i win


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: (Daskoupe)*









A free


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*

find me if your ever in the FL,i'm repairing all vws for 1943 to 09 for a living
i'll want that free beer


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

We have a local favorite called "Boulevard" I'm not a drinker but when I was boulevard was a good choice. I'll have to figure out a w ay to get it sent down


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## Brass Monkey013 (Aug 21, 2007)

ever get those tickets paid?
I'm interested in updates!


----------

