# Release Handle not opening Hood / Bonnet Latch



## mattsimis (Sep 19, 2005)

It appears the latch has pulled the cord off the opening mechanism, its pulling freely. Obviously I cannot get the hood open now :banghead:

Can someone PM me the intructions that were floating around here for the emergency open proceedure?


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## mattsimis (Sep 19, 2005)

The issue isnt t he latch handle, I took the trim off etc around and its all attached and looks fine. The problem is either the hood lock or something else jammed. 
Before this happened the hood wasnt closing properly, but there was nothing visible blocking it


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## mattsimis (Sep 19, 2005)

*Re: (mattsimis)*

I really dont want to have to smash my grille in to get this open. 
I can twist and open the VW badge on the grille which implies there is a "workaround" to get at it. Can anyone take some photos of locking assembly? From that I may be able to work out whats wrong.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (mattsimis)*

Hi Matt:

I had a look at the locking assembly on my W12 this evening. I can't see any way at all to activate the latch from the front of the car. Even if you were willing to (for example) remove the whole grille with a small model saw, you would have no way of getting access to the latch, because the radiators are in the way. The top edge of the radiators is flush with the lower skin of the hood.

I think it would be possible for a skilled VW tech who is familiar with the Phaeton to activate the latch from below. To do this, he/she would need to remove the underbody pan from the engine area (not a difficult task, this is normally done with every oil change), then get access to the latch from below with a long hook.

It would be of great benefit to the technician if another similar (same engine) Phaeton was available at the shop for reference at the same time the tech was working on your vehicle.

FYI, Volkswagen studies problems like this ahead of time - how to open a trunk, hood, door, etc. if the normal mechanism is inoperative. Have your local tech contact the importer's support center (VW UK, in this case) and ask them to contact Germany and find out what the correct procedure is.

Hope this helps.

Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*

Just found this photo (below) showing how to get access to the hood latch - hope this helps.


{photos no longer available - Chris}


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## mattsimis (Sep 19, 2005)

You have an odd sense of humour Michael, odd indeed!


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## Solipsism12 (Feb 18, 2008)

So that would be what, exactly? Pick the car up by the boot and give it a smart shake?


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## IrishPhaeton (Jul 21, 2006)

*Re: Latch not opening Hood/Bonnet (mattsimis)*

Matt
if it's any good to you, I am around Dublin with a Phaeton, if you want to have a look at the mechanism. 
I will send you my mobile number as a PM


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## mattsimis (Sep 19, 2005)

*Re: Latch not opening Hood/Bonnet (IrishPhaeton)*

Thanks, Ill keep it in reserve if worst comes to worst. I havent even got to look at the Phaeton as its getting tinted at the moment, the tint guy is being extra careful... taken 3days so far


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## mattsimis (Sep 19, 2005)

Actually, before we take an angle grinder to this, could someone take some nice, high res pics of the locking mechanism and anything related to it in the engine bay?


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (mattsimis)*

Hi Matt:

Here are some pictures that might help you visualize the relationship between the hood latch mechanism and the radiators. My car has a W12 engine, so it is possible that I might have a slightly different size radiator than you, although I suspect that the top edge of the radiator will be aligned on the same level for all cars.

Please do give the factory in Dresden a call - I am certain that they have researched this problem before and will know what the workaround is. For example, the Bowden cable that runs from the handle in the passenger compartment to the hood latch likely passes through the driver side (your driver side) wheel-well. Therefore, it might be possible to remove the front nearside wheel, the front nearside fender liner, then grasp the cable and pull it from there. This might avoid all the grief of trying to get access to the latch from the front or from underneath.

If you can wait a few days, I'll try to contact some folks I know in Technical Support at Dresden and see if they have the answer. Let me know.

Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*

Matt:
I had a closer look - it appears that the Bowden cable that operates the hood latch runs out the left hand side of the latch. But... I have a left hand drive car, I presume your car is RHD. The hood release lever on my car is on the extreme left side, that is to say, the outboard side of the (North American) driver footwell.
I don't know if VW provides an entirely different front assembly for the RHD cars or not. It is possible that they just provide a longer Bowden cable because they have to make a 180 degree loop in it to route it over to the right side of the car, so as to attach to the RHD hood release handle that is on the far right side of your car.
Anyway, hope this helps.
Michael


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## pilgrim7777 (Oct 27, 2004)

Hi Matt, there is a lock down on the right hand side just below the bonnet pull I have found on occasions my dealer locks with the ignition key, which prevents entry to the engine compartment. 

_Modified by pilgrim7777 at 7:29 AM 5-20-2008_


_Modified by pilgrim7777 at 7:31 AM 5-20-2008_


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## mattsimis (Sep 19, 2005)

*Re: (pilgrim7777)*

Thanks for the pictures Michael! 
The cable release is on the right on mine, and the cable runs from the right too, so it appears they inverted the locking mechanism as opposed the longer cable. Could I trouble you (or anyone!) for a photo of the locking parts on the grille, the "lock catch" that goes into the locking parts you photo'ed?
If you can get any detail from your contacts in Dresden, it would be worth doing regardless of if I can force it open or not, its likely someone else in the future is going to be in the same situation and it would be nice to know the proper way out!

Pilgrim, I tried turning the keylock on and off in the driver area, it appears to just secure the latch release not affect the hood lock directly.










_Modified by mattsimis at 10:00 AM 5-20-2008_


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## mattsimis (Sep 19, 2005)

Just a quick work in progress to say I got it by removing bolts on the lock carrier itself, through the grille! Now to figure out whats wrong..
EDIT: It appears the cable from the cabin latch popped out of the "release coupling" which meant it simply wasnt pulling the pins back on the main hood catch. I put it back together and the latch seems to click and release better now than ever, so this appears to simply be a part of moved out of alignment, no connection to my LED install antics in the engine bay at all.


_Modified by mattsimis at 11:48 PM 5-20-2008_


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## adamkodish (Mar 5, 2006)

*Re: (mattsimis)*

Do you still want a photo of the front of a V10 with the hood raised? I can take one in the morning and post it.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (mattsimis)*

Happy to hear that you got it open.
Michael


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## Prince Ludwig (Mar 24, 2007)

Matt,

I think you forgot that you posted a pic of your own car with its hood open a few months ago


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## mattsimis (Sep 19, 2005)

Lol, oh yeah!
Thanks Adam, but think Im good now. 
I dunno if you guys want me to post how you open the hood without being inside the car (some people have security concerns over stuff like that), but its fairly easy in hindsight if you have a couple of tools with you.


_Modified by mattsimis at 11:51 PM 5-20-2008_


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## Prince Ludwig (Mar 24, 2007)

I'd appreciate a little walk-through if only because I like being prepared for things!
On a slightly related note, after a few months what are your thoughts about the V10? I've seen one that I'm thinking of doing a trade on (mainly because it's got more toys!) but was curious about a couple of aspects of the engine:
1) How noisy is it at idle (compared to the V6 if you have been able to compare them)?
2) Do you get any soot in the exhaust when you put your foot down (due to the lack of a DPF)?
Thanks!
Harry


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (mattsimis)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mattsimis* »_I dunno if you guys want me to post how you open the hood without being inside the car (some people have security concerns over stuff like that...

Probably best if we don't post an illustrated 'how-to' here, but instead just keep you in mind in case anyone gets into the same trouble in the future.
By the way - the alarm will go off if the hood is opened when the car is locked up. 
Michael


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## adamkodish (Mar 5, 2006)

*Re: (Prince Ludwig)*

With the window open at idle the engine is noisy compared to a petrol engine (stating the obvious) but Ive nothing to compare against in the diesel stakes. With the window closed I cant hear the engine. Will bring trusty Radio Shack sound pressure meter to next GTG.
I've seen soot coming from the exhaust....the worst being on the test drive under full throttle in 2nd and 3rd gears. Perhaps this was because the car had been sitting around for a while and hadn't been caned?
Can't recall seeing any soot since then. Perhaps a trophy to be given to the GTG participant who can blow the most soot







Is this the (diesel) Phaetoners' equivalent of an Evo owners' doughnut competition?

_Quote, originally posted by *Prince Ludwig* »_
On a slightly related note, after a few months what are your thoughts about the V10? I've seen one that I'm thinking of doing a trade on (mainly because it's got more toys!) but was curious about a couple of aspects of the engine:
1) How noisy is it at idle (compared to the V6 if you have been able to compare them)?
2) Do you get any soot in the exhaust when you put your foot down (due to the lack of a DPF)?

 


_Modified by adamkodish at 10:37 AM 5-21-2008_


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## mattsimis (Sep 19, 2005)

*Re: (Prince Ludwig)*

Similar to Adams feedback:
1) Fairly noisey at idle, especially when cold (listening when outside the car). Under low RPM and driving through traffic it has a more pleasing grunt. High RPM sounds good. 
2) Very rarely do I see soot. Under hard acceleration you can see a smokey cloud behind you in someone elses headlights at night, but virtually invisible in daylight. When cold and not driven for a while it sometimes briefly smokes when started, but nothing out of the ordinary for any car.


_Quote, originally posted by *Prince Ludwig* »_
On a slightly related note, after a few months what are your thoughts about the V10? I've seen one that I'm thinking of doing a trade on (mainly because it's got more toys!) but was curious about a couple of aspects of the engine:
1) How noisy is it at idle (compared to the V6 if you have been able to compare them)?
2) Do you get any soot in the exhaust when you put your foot down (due to the lack of a DPF)?


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## Prince Ludwig (Mar 24, 2007)

_Quote »_Is this the (diesel) Phaetoners' equivalent of an Evo owners' doughnut competition?

Yes, but with fewer back-to-front baseball caps!


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## adamkodish (Mar 5, 2006)

*Re: (Prince Ludwig)*

We might be tempted to wear our Panamas back-to-front on such occasions 









_Quote, originally posted by *Prince Ludwig* »_
Yes, but with fewer back-to-front baseball caps!


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## Motorista (Oct 28, 2005)

*Re: (mattsimis)*

Matt, I IM'd you.
Stefano


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## ovanvelde (Jan 21, 2011)

Matt, I PM-ed you. Hope you van help me!


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## sachverhalte (Sep 16, 2007)

*Hood (bonnet) release broken*

Hi All,

I think my front hood release cable just snapped. I pulled the handle to release the hood. Initially, I had strong resistance, then the handle suddenly released. However, the hood remains tightly secured. Does anyone know how to release the latch mechanism if the cable or connection is broken?

Thanks...Bob


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## seawind3000 (Sep 17, 2010)

Yes I do..... but I'm a fire fighter and you would not like the end result!!:facepalm:

But seriously, we have a small forked tube that goes through the grill and around the broken ( or burned off) cable and twist it untill it comes tight and opens the hood, then you can buy a replacement cable.

Mike


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## sachverhalte (Sep 16, 2007)

Hi Mike,

Thanks. I was hoping to find a less destructive means of opening the hood, just in case the failure is an easily fixable connector. If I don't hear another suggestion soon, I might have t use the ax. 

-Bob


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## seawind3000 (Sep 17, 2010)

No No... don't use the axe..... the hood tool won't leave any marks but the cable will be u s.

Mike


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Bob:

There are different places where the cable assembly could possibly break. If it has broken, and if you are lucky, it will have broken at the cabin end of things (in the driver footwell), not at the hood end of things (just behind the big VW logo on the front grille).

For more information about how to disassemble and investigate the hood release lever mechanism in the driver footwell, see this post: Retrofitting Keyless Start to Phaetons that are equipped with Keyless Entry That is a huge post, the information about how to disassemble the hood release mechanism handle is towards the bottom of the first page (disregard all the information about disassembling the seat and the center portion of the car).

If you are really lucky, you might find that the part that has broken is the plastic release handle in the driver footwell.

Hope this helps,

Michael


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## sachverhalte (Sep 16, 2007)

Hi Michael,

Thanks for the link. I'm enjoying balmy Toronto right now. When I return to Boston, I will investigate the linkage in the footwell. Fingers crossed!

Bob


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Hi Bob:

Sorry to miss you in Toronto. In theory, that is my home town (I have a house there), and I was in Toronto last week. But right now I am on Vancouver Island, which is where I work.

Do you get to Toronto often? If so, we should try to co-ordinate getting together for a coffee sometime. I pass through Toronto about once a month, usually when I am on my way to Europe from Vancouver Island.

If you every happen to drive your Phaeton up to Toronto, there is an absolutely awesome VW dealership just a few miles north of the town called Volkswagen Richmond Hill - this is where I bought my W12 new. They are real Phaeton experts there.

Michael


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## sachverhalte (Sep 16, 2007)

Hi All, 

I'm back with my Phaeton. I just took a look in the footwell and it seems that the cable on the footwell end of things is OK. 

I would appreciate it if anyone could send a picture of the hood release mechanism, with any ideas about how I might release it by inserting a well placed screwdriver or shaped piece of metal from the exterior. Otherwise, I just might have to take it to the dealer. 

Hi Michael...it looks like I might be in Vancouver next week. Any chance you'll be there? Maybe we could have a coffee. 

Bob


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## Jxander (Aug 5, 2008)

My Son and I had the same problem on an X-Type Jaguar. I do feel for you as it is a very helpless feeling. We took the car around to some independent mechanics assuming that it surely wasn't the first time this had happened. Thus, a professional mechanic would have seen it before, albeit on a different brand/model - and would have some experience. Wrong. They all ran like scared cats from the problem. So we dug back in. We did resolve the issue by working from the underside of the car. My son was under, so I didn't see or feel exactly what he did. However, he did eventually see the cable and grabbed it with vice-grips. He pulled and I gently joustled the hood from the top. Finally success. His cable had not broken but had come loose from a mounting point and had too much slack to generate a pull on the hood release. The Phaeton under engine covers would have to be removed and we considered, but did not have to remove a tire and protective wheel well. 

Another choice is to take it to your friendly VW dealer and ask for an oil service and see what happens. At least they have a lift. :sly: 

Jim X


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Bob: 

Here's a couple of photos I took of my car today that show details of the lower and upper portions of the hood release and lock mechanism. 

I can't see where the cable that operates the latch release mechanism is. I suspect it is within or underneath some of the supporting members. 

To determine a solution to your problem, I think your VW dealer will need to contact VW Techline (the North American support service for the VW dealership technicians), and the Techline folks might have to contact Germany. I am pretty sure that problems such as this have been investigated and solutions developed - in fact, I remember visiting VW headquarters in Michigan way back in 2005 or 2006 and seeing the people there drilling through a trunk lid logo in an attempt to develop and document a solution to get into the trunk when no key was available and the electric opening system did not work. 

I am pretty confident that the folks in Dresden have developed a procedure to get the hood open when the cable is broken - but, it's just not a widely promulgated solution. 

Anyway, from looking at the photos (and looking at my car), I can't see any obvious way to get at the mechanism and get it unlatched. 

Michael 

*Lower Hood Attachment Point* 









*Upper Hood Attachment Point*


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## sachverhalte (Sep 16, 2007)

Hi Michael, 

Many thanks for the photos. I've decided to take this problem to the dealer. 

Bob


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## sachverhalte (Sep 16, 2007)

Hi All, 

Thanks again for those who advised. My VW Real Driver Platinum extended warranty covered the replacement of two cables, and covered a rental car for 2 days. Still, I feel a little bit defeated that I couldn't figure out how to open the hood myself (or with your help). 

Thanks...Bob


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## Jxander (Aug 5, 2008)

sachverhalte said:


> Hi All,
> 
> Thanks again for those who advised. My VW Real Driver Platinum extended warranty covered the replacement of two cables, and covered a rental car for 2 days. Still, I feel a little bit defeated that I couldn't figure out how to open the hood myself (or with your help).
> 
> Thanks...Bob


 Bob: 

Glad you were covered by warranty. Did the tech give you any idea regarding how they resolved what we were unable to figure out? If they did it from below, their lift would have been a real asset. 

Jim X


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## sachverhalte (Sep 16, 2007)

Hi Jim, 

The dealer logged 5 hours on the repair. The had to remove the lower bumper valence and reach up to manually pop the hood. I'm sure having the car up on a lift helped. The diagnosis was replacement of two cable assemblies. I know the warranty company only authorised 2.7 hours for the repair. All of my Phaeton repairs seem to be three step...1-disassemble car and diagnose problem...2- reassemble car, order part, wait some days...3- receive part, disassemble car, repair, reassemble. So, I'm sure the repair had some double work involved. 

Thanks, 
Bob


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## Jxander (Aug 5, 2008)

Bob: 

Thanks for the info. If it took them 5 hours with a lift and some experience most owners don't have, I think you made a great decision letting the dealer do the task. That's especially true since you have a warranty. 

I find the same lengthy repair process. I guess that's one of the costs of owning a "rare" vehicle that hasn't been imported for 5 or 6 years. For that reason, I couldn't recommend a Phaeton to someone that wanted to own just one car that had to be counted on. 

Jim X


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Photos re-hosted.

Michael


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## ErikO (Jun 14, 2014)

*Hello all, just picked me up a W12...*

Hi,

Couldn't resist the size, power, and build quality. So a W12 it was for me...

As you can imagine, having a W12, is akin to having a new baby - everyone wants to see the engine.

And so after a dozen or so bonnet ups and downs, the bonnet leaver just pulls nothing, and now I cannot pop it up to check the oil!

Any ideas of a work around here?

I assume in the meantime an oil indication would notify me of any shortage?

Thanks in advance for all your answers.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Yes, it'll warn if the oil is low. I think there's a thread somewhere about bonnet lever failure.


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## n968412L (Apr 23, 2009)

When I got my V10, at seven years old, I almost couldn't open the bonnet... I suspect it had only been opened twice in the previous seven years... and the mechanism at the front of the engine bay was almost seized. So it's been regularly treated with oil since then and is now OK - but I think this is an important maintenance point. I was seriously worried I was going to snap the cable or pull it out of it's mountings.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

> And so after a dozen or so bonnet ups and downs, the bonnet leaver just pulls nothing, and now I cannot pop it up to check the oil!


Hi Erik,

Welcome to the forum!

I merged your new thread into the main one containing a discussion on recovering from a hood/bonnet release failure, since that seems to be the main topic, other than the very important item of saying hello!

Chris


PS - Please don't forget to add some information to your forum profile. This thread refers: Please Read Regarding your Forum Profile


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

You can see from checking this thread that many of the owners with a bonnet latch problem took their cars to the dealer and claimed on the warranty; this was between 2.7 hours and 5 hours labour plus two new cables. But 5 hours at UK labour rates is £600/$1000. 

The Fire Brigade suggested to either cut the front off the car or use a special hook to wind round the cable and pull it, which opens the hood but destroys at least the cable. However, no-one can find a place to apply such a tool.

One workshop had to remove the bumper cover to gain suitable access. Folks were cautious about posting full details in case this released sensitive information in relation to auto theft. Now, a few years later, this data privacy is probably not such an issue.

I suggest that the best, or at least cheapest, approach is to get a local VW or Audi independent specialist shop to put the car on a ramp and have the tech with the smallest hands try and locate the access place to pull on the cable.

To check that the release lever in the cabin is engaging with the geared adapter, below are Michael's photos of the release handle and what lies behind it. The general diagram of the hood release assemblies is after that. You can see that there are two cables with a joining unit.


Chris



*Remove the handle*










*The lever rotates the black fingered spigot*
(the red arrow was added to the photo in a different context - ignore)









*General component diagram*








image (c) volkswagen


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## solar2004 (Oct 25, 2010)

*Bonnet / Hood release broken*

Hello All, Michael,

My 2004 W12 also now has a broken bonnet release. This is a pain because at 210,000 miles it is using a bit of coolant and oil, so I do not dare take it out far. Did anyone learn how to access the mechanism at the front? My release lever in the cabin moves freely, but does not pop the catch, so I assume the problem is at the front. I have a problem with a headlight intermittently switching off, usually when I go round a corner quickly, which my dealer wants a fortune to repair as it involves taking off the bumper assembly, so I suppose I could get both things repaired at the same time. But this, plus a full service, and gearbox oil change (am on the 3rd gearbox and don't think this one will last much longer) means the bill will be huge! Any advice on a simple work around would be really helpful.

Lots of other things are wrong, the radar cruise control is broken, the radio has earthed, so only picks up a few stations and is generally useless, airbag light comes on intermittently, and the check engine light has been on since I bought the car 4 years ago and the rules are changing for this, it might not pass an MOT without a full repair to solve the problem (probably vacuum hoses or catalytic converters - I have changed the sensors when the last gearbox was fitted). I also have a noise from the front of the car (might have been the bonnet release cable) some sort of tapping noise - I thought a radiator fan was hitting some pipe assembly. I had visions of it being the oil pipe for the alternator. I have already had to change an alternator, which is typically an engine out job, but fortunately the supplying dealer did that on warranty, and managed it by taking off the front of the car, and the wing.

Thinking of buying a Tesla and keeping the Phaeton in collection with my Passat W8. I think it will be cheaper!


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## ErikO (Jun 14, 2014)

I took mine to two garages that both couldn't resolve mine either.

Eventually booked it into the main dealer on a Friday afternoon for Monday, parts arrived Monday, car delivered, and collected Tuesday morning.

Less than 200 GBP with a new catch fitted.



solar2004 said:


> Hello All, Michael,
> 
> My 2004 W12 also now has a broken bonnet release. This is a pain because at 210,000 miles it is using a bit of coolant and oil, so I do not dare take it out far. Did anyone learn how to access the mechanism at the front? My release lever in the cabin moves freely, but does not pop the catch, so I assume the problem is at the front. I have a problem with a headlight intermittently switching off, usually when I go round a corner quickly, which my dealer wants a fortune to repair as it involves taking off the bumper assembly, so I suppose I could get both things repaired at the same time. But this, plus a full service, and gearbox oil change (am on the 3rd gearbox and don't think this one will last much longer) means the bill will be huge! Any advice on a simple work around would be really helpful.
> 
> ...


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## MUNK19 (Mar 1, 2015)

*b6 passat no battery power and bonnet will not open*

hello mate
sorry to hijack the post. could you send the procedure how to open the bonnet. my battery died and i cant get in to charge it. can you send it to [email protected]??


cheers


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## s2kvondeutschland (Mar 19, 2011)

The batteries are in the boot. The underhood connections are only for starting; they do not make a direct connection to the batteries. 

Sent from my Chroma Nexus 6


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Munk19,

I think you accidentally posted in the Phaeton forum, rather than the Passat forum. The cars are quite different.

I hope you get your problem solved!

Regards,
Chris


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## Harism (Jan 2, 2016)

*It's an easy job*

Hello everybody,

It's very easy to do (15 minute job instead of 5 hours at dealership).

First look at PanEuropean's photos for reference.
Remove the VW logo from the grille (my 2004 is a straight pull, no twists).
Take a piece of strong wire and make a hook on one end.
Push the hook through the opening where VW logo was and pull off the plastic cover that is in front of the latch.
Remove the cover through the opening in the grill where VW logo was.
Remove 3 star-shaped screws using a long screwdriver; the two you just uncovered and another one you can see through an opening in the grille (not where VW logo was).
Now you can lift the hood along with latch ( it might be little stiff so lift it slowly)
I hope this helps you.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Here is a drawing of the bonnet lock. Haris, are the three bolts you mentioned the ones shown?

Chris


*Bonnet Lock*








image (c) volkswagen


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## Harism (Jan 2, 2016)

Yes 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Haris,

Thank you very much indeed for posting this information, which I think is quite important.

I attach a drawing showing the plastic cover which must be pulled off with the wire. The two hooks securing it can be seen which, if you had access, you would have to squeeze together to allow removal.

Chris


*Bonnet latch plastic cover*








image (c) volkswagen


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## Ncpitman (Apr 19, 2014)

This was an awesome thread! I found myself in this very position today. As I read through the start of the thread, my hopes were becoming dim. When I got to the last page, big smiles. 

FYI, I used a wire rod that's used to support insulation on the underside of a floor as my stiff wire. Hooked it on the end with a 1/4" 180' bend and pulled the cover right off. Got the screws out of the latch and my hood opened. 

What caused my issues? Long story short. My hood had a foreign object closed in between it and the front of the car which caused extra stress on the lock. The cable system has a joint right underneath the driver side air inlet (rhd cars). The joint released under the stress. I have it rejoined now and think it will be good. If not, the joint comes with the hood latch cable if I need to replace it (I think).

Thank you forum!


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## ravenflies (Oct 31, 2013)

*Keep an eye on the safety catch.*

I found my bonnet lock jammed the other day. I managed to release it after a while and found a broken lock. Cause of the damage: Safety catch not moving freely. I had it lubricated before, but in one position it got stuck. Didn't need more than a feather light force to move but it stayed there if I didn't take care looking. The result: The corner of the safety catch slammed right at the corner of the lock, broke the plastic and deformed the metal structure badly.



















So keep attetion on the movement of the safety catch and if it doesn't move freely, ensure that the handle that pops out when the release handle is pulled is pushed back in before closing the hood. The damaged lock costs about $100, but the big issue is if you can't open the bonnet and there is an obvious risk that this happens.
And if it does it could be difficult to open it even with the tips in this post.

Lennart


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## kuwona (Jul 30, 2015)

Ugh. I was psyched to see the thread with the easy way to open my hood. I got the emblem and 3 bolts out. Hood still not moving. Any ideas?


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## kuwona (Jul 30, 2015)

OK - Got it opened. Had to get pretty rough and I'm now in the market for the bowden cable coupling to replace the one that broke in half.


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## Rezzi (Mar 29, 2018)

Just bought a 2004 v8 phaeton and with my luck the first thing I tried to do is open the hood to check the fluids and BAM the hood release either snapped or got disconnected. I tried everything including removing the vw badge and and removing the 3 torx screws and still nothing anyone have any other way to open this thing I have a slight oil leak and I need to check my oil level ASAP.


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## b1gmac (Apr 19, 2018)

Hello gentlemen & ladies. I'm the new owner of Irish Phaeton's silver v6 tdi and have experienced the problem of bonnet not releasing. 

I'm on my phone right now, so I'll type out an official greeting at a later date, but was hoping to find the info MattSimis relates to. I actually interacted with said gentleman here in Ireland via a different motoring forum previously, before he moved down under. He was a nan who appreciated many epic motors.

I've had Replaced two engine mounts and a PAS pump in the past month, so it's really important to gain access to the engine as the steering issue hasn't been fully addressed yet.

This forum was recommended by Hugh for it's"unbelievable wealth" of info as he ventured off to be a Q7 electron driver.


Any assistance much appreciated in advance,

Regards,

Matt, Dublin, Ireland


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## evmaddy (Dec 18, 2014)

*How to open hood*

I've found myself with the hood closed and the release lever in the drivers area not releasing the catch.
Removed the front round VW emblem, and unsuccessfully tried to remove the plastic cover to access the torx screws.
At this point with the front wheels up on driving ramps, I removed the front belly pan section.
You can then look up from underneath the car and see the latch mechanism. You can release it using a long screw driver or in my case a long pry bar and push the mechanism to one side or the other. You will hear a click and the hood latch is released.
Hope this helps.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

> I've found myself with the hood closed and the release lever in the drivers area not releasing the catch.
> Removed the front round VW emblem, and unsuccessfully tried to remove the plastic cover to access the torx screws.
> At this point with the front wheels up on driving ramps, I removed the front belly pan section.
> You can then look up from underneath the car and see the latch mechanism. You can release it using a long screw driver or in my case a long pry bar and push the mechanism to one side or the other. You will hear a click and the hood latch is released.
> Hope this helps.


Hi Jeff,

Thanks for your succinct post on how to overcome that long-standing problem of gaining immediate access. Did you have to replace any Bowden Cables, or did it work just cleaning up the lock mechanism?

Chris


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## drsamjames (Aug 6, 2017)

mattsimis said:


> Lol, oh yeah!
> Thanks Adam, but think Im good now.
> I dunno if you guys want me to post how you open the hood without being inside the car (some people have security concerns over stuff like that), but its fairly easy in hindsight if you have a couple of tools with you.
> 
> ...


Hi All

I have a phaeton with a broken bonnet release cable, I pull the lever and nothing happens...

I'm assuming no one ever posted the How-To on getting the bonnet open???

Thanks

Sam


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

I don't think anyone posted a photo set of how to open the bonnet / hood when the release mechanism is jammed or broken.

But Jeff's post (#64 above) sums up what to do. You are welcome to take some photos!

Regards,
Chris


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## drsamjames (Aug 6, 2017)

Paximus said:


> I don't think anyone posted a photo set of how to open the bonnet / hood when the release mechanism is jammed or broken.
> 
> But Jeff's post (#64 above) sums up what to do. You are welcome to take some photos!
> 
> ...


Hi Chris

I will admit I did find it hard to pick apart the thread. For anyone that comes after me it turned out to be very very easy on my 3.2 VR6 model. Once the engain under pan was taken off the cable is very clearly visible and not too hard to actuate. A sub hour job for me with a car lift, jacking the car up and taking the under pan off took most of the time!

I did take some photos:














Hope this helps someone. 

Sam


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