# PCV experts, come take a look. suction jet pump 058133753B



## oj1480 (Jun 6, 2006)

vw calls this thing - "suction jet pump" (part number: 058 133 753 B)
my question is: Is that true this pump does not come with the AWD engine?
TIA



_Modified by oj1480 at 12:53 PM 7-26-2006_


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## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*Re: PCV experts, come take a look. (oj1480)*

worldimpex.com shows it having an application on the 2000 Golf/Jetta 1.8t along with almost ever Audi/VW from 97-05


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## polov8 (Apr 14, 2004)

*Re: PCV experts, come take a look. (Boostin20v)*

what does it do?


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## oj1480 (Jun 6, 2006)

*Re: PCV experts, come take a look. (polov8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *polov8* »_what does it do?

the toughest question in the world. believe me


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## WhiteG60 (Aug 20, 2001)

*Re: PCV experts, come take a look. (oj1480)*

It uses Vacuum/Boost to open a valve for the PCV.


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## oj1480 (Jun 6, 2006)

*Re: PCV experts, come take a look. (WhiteG60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WhiteG60* »_It uses Vacuum/Boost to open a valve for the PCV.

so is this thing also called "vacuum booster"?


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## WhiteG60 (Aug 20, 2001)

*Re: PCV experts, come take a look. (oj1480)*


_Quote, originally posted by *oj1480* »_so is this thing also called "vacuum booster"?









Uhm, not really. Basicly, in that thing there is a valve that opens under boost and routes the PCV to the intake, under vacuum its not open


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## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: PCV experts, come take a look. (WhiteG60)*

It basically creates a small internal leak... On both my 1.8T's i removed it


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## TyrolSport (Mar 4, 1999)

*Re: PCV experts, come take a look. (oj1480)*

It exists on the AWD engine. I change mine every 30k miles.


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## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: PCV experts, come take a look. (tyrolkid)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tyrolkid* »_It exists on the AWD engine. I change mine every 30k miles. 

yeah it can keep fuel trims in check too


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

i was gonna change mine on my awp
http://www.worldimpex.com/item...43591


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## Seanathan (May 1, 2002)

*Re: (screwball)*

its a little sl*t that likes to break when even looking at your manifold wrong.


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## oj1480 (Jun 6, 2006)

*Re: (Seanathan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Seanathan* »_its a little sl*t that likes to break when even looking at your manifold wrong. 

yeah it lasts only 20k, then it will leak.
i super glue it yesterday, now it seems to be fine.
some one should find a way to make a metal valve


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## Seanathan (May 1, 2002)

*Re: (oj1480)*

I tried to glue it even with gorilla glue. Popped open after driving down the street. I just sucked it up and bought a new one.


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## VeeDubbinJetta91 (Aug 19, 2002)

*Re: (Seanathan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Seanathan* »_I tried to glue it even with gorilla glue. Popped open after driving down the street. I just sucked it up and bought a new one.









same thing i did...so i just replaced it


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## Wayne92SLC (Mar 1, 2001)

*Re: (VeeDubbinJetta91)*

What's the PIA level for replacing it? (to start with, where's it at?)
Thanks,
-Wayne


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## oj1480 (Jun 6, 2006)

*Re: (Wayne92SLC)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Wayne92SLC* »_What's the PIA level for replacing it? (to start with, where's it at?)
Thanks,
-Wayne

u dont have to replace it if it's good.
1) take a look under the manifold see if u have a oil leak.
2) if there is a leak, most likely is the jet valve or pcv valve leaks.
both suckers are right under the manifold.
it's not hard to replace it if you have small hands.


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## Pifiu (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (oj1480)*

Can someone show me where this goes picture wise?

sorry Im just not comfortable messing with stuff I dont know.








I have a leak somewhere and maybe this is it.


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## oj1480 (Jun 6, 2006)

*Re: (Pifiu)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Pifiu* »_Can someone show me where this goes picture wise?

sorry Im just not comfortable messing with stuff I dont know.








I have a leak somewhere and maybe this is it.









right under the manifold


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## nixqik1 (Feb 6, 2004)

*Re: (oj1480)*

Anybody know what the symptoms of failure are with this?? Probably low vacuum? My problem is that I have been trying to find a leak (sounds like boost is going through the PCV system, 20 psi=no power







) forever, and have had no luck. Could this be failing and allowing boost to go through PCV(which I have changed)?


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## skydaman (Dec 16, 2005)

*Re: (nixqik1)*

I have an AWD I had this part before I modified my PCV system..


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## dragon299 (May 13, 2006)

*Re: (nixqik1)*

if it fails, normaly you get a low or poor idle, and can cause slight miss fires @ start up


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## DJKeebler (Dec 6, 2001)

hmmmm, I wonder if this is the culprit of my poor idle at startup, studder at idle after warmup, and bad mileage.


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## nixqik1 (Feb 6, 2004)

I got none of those, except the bad mileage(might be my foot>>>) but I know half my boost is going elsewhere.


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## nixqik1 (Feb 6, 2004)

Sorry to bump this, as it's lookin' dead, but does anyone know if this would cause boost to leak into PCV system if it failed? This would end a year long search for me.......


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## 1QuickDub (Aug 11, 2005)

*Re: (nixqik1)*

Nice


_Modified by 1QuickDub at 3:15 PM 7-25-2006_


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## oj1480 (Jun 6, 2006)

*Re: (nixqik1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nixqik1* »_Sorry to bump this, as it's lookin' dead, but does anyone know if this would cause boost to leak into PCV system if it failed? This would end a year long search for me.......

yes, i am 100% sure.
i just got mine fixed last weekend and now my car pulls as hungry as before (right after chipped).
if you plan to replace it, make sure you tight up all the clamps.
and dont feel sorry to bump it up, when u see the op is OJ1480 you can bump it up as much as you want.








btw, i also did an oil catch can as i replace the sucker. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2729126


_Modified by oj1480 at 3:25 PM 7-25-2006_


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## nixqik1 (Feb 6, 2004)

*Re: (oj1480)*

Then bump, and thanks!! If this is what has been driving me crazy all time, I owe you one for starting this thread. I have checked, replaced, and taken apart EVERYTHING, and never had one bit of improvement.


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## DJKeebler (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (nixqik1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nixqik1* »_Then bump, and thanks!! If this is what has been driving me crazy all time, I owe you one for starting this thread. I have checked, replaced, and taken apart EVERYTHING, and never had one bit of improvement.
















same here. I have never gotten over 280 miles/tank in the 2 1/2 years I've owned my car and have always had this annoying studder in my idle. For $25 and with gas prices as high as they are in Hawaii, I guess it's worth a try.


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## nixqik1 (Feb 6, 2004)

Hey, If you need help Keebler, fly me out to HI and I'll be more than happy to assist.......


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## law128 (Apr 11, 2006)

*Re: PCV experts, come take a look. (oj1480)*

larson vw in tacoma, wa charged me like 300 bucks to change that little baby.


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## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: PCV experts, come take a look. (law128)*


_Quote, originally posted by *law128* »_larson vw in tacoma, wa charged me like 300 bucks to change that little baby.









check the labor rate thats why. What else did they change.


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## TommyBoyee (Feb 1, 2005)

So does the plastic deteriorate and crack after awhile? If I had to replace this part I think I'd coat it with epoxy to keep this from being an issue in the future.


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## Seanathan (May 1, 2002)

*Re: (TommyBoyee)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TommyBoyee* »_So does the plastic deteriorate and crack after awhile? If I had to replace this part I think I'd coat it with epoxy to keep this from being an issue in the future.

Things see a decent amount of pressure. No amount of epoxy or gorilla glue kept mine together, unfortunately.


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## Seanathan (May 1, 2002)

*Re: (Seanathan)*

Mine when it broke:


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## mescaline (Jul 15, 2005)

uh, cant get in there without removing intake manifold right?


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## oj1480 (Jun 6, 2006)

_Modified by oj1480 at 8:02 PM 1-10-2008_


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## atla$ (Feb 4, 2005)

Ok...but what kind of problem did you have if the PCV is broken???
Because I got a problem with my boost...I don't have any peak of boost....my boost up to 18PSI and don't go more!!
Before my boost peak was 21 and after drop to 18 PSI!!


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## Seanathan (May 1, 2002)

*Re: (atla$)*

If this sucker is leaking you'll feel it in your brakes too, as I believe part of it goes to the brake booster.


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## oj1480 (Jun 6, 2006)

*Re: (Seanathan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Seanathan* »_If this sucker is leaking you'll feel it in your brakes too, as I believe part of it goes to the brake booster. 

yup
it will also make your car
1) bad gas mileage
2) boost leaks
3) oil leaks in the engine bay (will cause fire)
that's all i know.


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## DJKeebler (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (nixqik1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nixqik1* »_Hey, If you need help Keebler, fly me out to HI and I'll be more than happy to assist.......

hahaha, the cost of the plane tix is probably more than I spent at the dealer already so if you could have solved the problem, it would have been cheaper. but I by no means have the financial resources to fly someone out to fix my car. Especially when I do a better job than most of the mechanics at VW. You can still recommend things that might help though.


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## DJKeebler (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (mescaline)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mescaline* »_uh, cant get in there without removing intake manifold right?

I thought you could do it if you have small hands (which I have) but maybe not. I'll check later today and see if I can get my hands in there but it's gonna be tight.


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## nixqik1 (Feb 6, 2004)

You sure.... I got really small hands..... JK


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## nixqik1 (Feb 6, 2004)

*Re: (nixqik1)*

Got mine, getting the timing belt/water pump done right now, I'll install it when I get home. Man, I hope this solves my problems. I've replace all my hoses, added Samco hoses to IC pipes/intake, new 710N DV, all of it. Boost gauge shows 21 psi, but pulls like %@$#. And I spotted oil under the intake, and PCV is brand new. I'll post results Thursday morning......


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## atla$ (Feb 4, 2005)

so....the results???


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## nixqik1 (Feb 6, 2004)

*Re: (atla$)*

Well, changed it out last night. It was so clogged, there was no air passing through it at all in one direction, and only through one pipe (the little off-shoot one) the other direction (which I think was correct). Anyway, I can't quite grasp the concept of how this thing works, but I know one side goes to the brake booster, the other to PCV. I think it shuts down under boost to keep it from brake booster, but it also seems like it will allow air through the PCV, which doesn't make sense to me. 
After changing it out, the car definitely builds boost smoother, and has a little more up top. It feels cleaner in general. If your car is chipped and you've got some miles on it, I bet this valve is toast. Mine was filled with oil that seems so super-heated that it turned to sand!


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## dragon299 (May 13, 2006)

*Re: (TommyBoyee)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TommyBoyee* »_So does the plastic deteriorate and crack after awhile? If I had to replace this part I think I'd coat it with epoxy to keep this from being an issue in the future.

oil causes them to coke up & plug, not the plastic deteriorating


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## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (dragon299)*

is this valve needed? if i am ditching the egr/sai setup? can i just run the brake booster threw its one check valve and right to the intake mani? eliminate all that?


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: (nixqik1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nixqik1* »_Well, changed it out last night. It was so clogged, there was no air passing through it at all in one direction, and only through one pipe (the little off-shoot one) the other direction (which I think was correct). Anyway, I can't quite grasp the concept of how this thing works, but I know one side goes to the brake booster, the other to PCV. I think it shuts down under boost to keep it from brake booster, but it also seems like it will allow air through the PCV, which doesn't make sense to me. 
After changing it out, the car definitely builds boost smoother, and has a little more up top. It feels cleaner in general. If your car is chipped and you've got some miles on it, I bet this valve is toast. Mine was filled with oil that seems so super-heated that it turned to sand!









lol if you blow the wrong it it wont do anything except come out the side pipe. It has a built in check valve right behind that big flat round disk area. Two small rubbery orange disks.







For as much as they charge for this if i you a 3/8 check valve a reducer and a Y you could make it for a quick fix or permanent then just replace the broken piece next time.


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## t0kie (Mar 18, 2006)

*Re: (theswoleguy)*

I'm going to change mine tonight & want to confirm if it's doable without removing the manifold?


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## bpfoley (Nov 30, 2000)

*Re: (t0kie)*

this part seems to be a real pita to change just from eyeing it from between the intake runners. Removing the one time clamps, removing the heat fitted hose then getting it all back together, I can't imagine doing this with the intake mani on the car.


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## 20VT*J4 (Aug 28, 2001)

*Re: (bpfoley)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bpfoley* »_this part seems to be a real pita to change just from eyeing it from between the intake runners. Removing the one time clamps, removing the heat fitted hose then getting it all back together, I can't imagine doing this with the intake mani on the car. 


It's def doable with the intake mani in the car...it may not be fun or easy, but it's def doable







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## t0kie (Mar 18, 2006)

*Re: (20VT*J4)*

I tried it last night & couldn't do it without removing the manifold, so I put everything back & plan to do it later when I have more time.


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## Karl0z (Jun 14, 2003)

*Re: (t0kie)*

I have all 3 problem
1- bad gaz milage ( not more than 460km per full tank about 276mile per full tank if im not mistaken) start up is rich
2- idle not stable boost not jumping like before
3- sometime a feel my brake to be not asisted very funny
the worst thing with that is im chassing that prob for two ears...
I think it could be the problem.. I made a boost presure test but shown nothing...


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## gtimitch (Nov 20, 2006)

*Re: (VW1990CORRADO)*

It tis a pizzz of vw gau-bau-ge---- Get Rid Of It.








I have a new one that I will not be reusing if one of you guys are interested.
Actually I have an array of new emission parts -- parts I ordered early in my project that I will not be using. They are new and some were pretty expensive but if you need something --make me an offer. I can save you a lot of money 












_Modified by gtimitch at 12:02 PM 5-31-2008_


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## Karl0z (Jun 14, 2003)

*Re: (gtimitch)*

I live faaar away from u







Chipping will overcost the thing itself... to bad :*(
if realy is my problem..im talking about the suction jet pump I will buy near I live ..I heard they cost about 25$ each so this is not that bad IF this is my problem of couse..somebody looked at my post to see if I have the same problem ?


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## sabredylan (Nov 10, 2005)

*Re: (Karl0z)*

I've been thinking of removing this on my engine(AUQ). I don't really know its purpose on my engine as none of it connects to the PCV. One end connects to the inlet manifold, one connects to the brake booster pipe and the other to the turbo intake pipe. My brakes can be crap from time to time, but I always thought it must be there for a reason. Is it ok to just run with one connection on the brake booster, because i'm really thinking of putting this part in the bin.


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## gtimitch (Nov 20, 2006)

*Re: (gtimitch)*



gtimitch said:


> It tis a pizzz of vw gau-bau-ge---- Get Rid Of It.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## TriniVdubOG (May 11, 2008)

*Re: (gtimitch)*

I have a 2000 RHD GTI with the AGU motor, do i have this valve? And yes i would have checked under my hood itself, however i'm currently in Miami and if i do have it i would like to buy a new valve before i go back


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## gtimitch (Nov 20, 2006)

*Re: (TriniVdubOG)*

I have a personal diagram I put together to help me make since of some of the vacuum connections. I will share it in the event it is of some help to you guys. Please note: this isn't a professional diagram and was intended for my own personal use. If you see an error let me know so I can correct it. Enjoy:


















_Modified by gtimitch at 8:26 PM 6-1-2008_


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## Karl0z (Jun 14, 2003)

*Re: (gtimitch)*

I went to the dealer 1 hours ago ...talked about the problem ..they told me since I have trouble with my brake not to be asisted as it supposed ..it could be the diafragme on the brake booster itself. sometime the diafragme broke and let vaccum pass trough....
is it possible or they try to fu*k me up ?


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## gtimitch (Nov 20, 2006)

*Re: (Karl0z)*

Before I went to that extreme I would get a real good look at the vacuum lines in the above diagram and check your lines to make sure one of the lines isn't broken in half or damaged. I believe your problem is simpler that your dealer led you to believe. Chances are, you’re going to find something small broken in your vacuum system before you get to your brake booster… – Well,,, that’s just my 2 ¢. Best of luck---


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## Karl0z (Jun 14, 2003)

*Re: (gtimitch)*

I have 100$ question here.. if on the idle, you punch the brake let say 4 time ...does your vaccum drop to 14inhg and making the car to stumble ?? It just to veryfy that I really have a brake and vacum prob








thanks








I think i have a problem somewhere in the vacum between pcv valve and the brake master cylinder...


_Modified by Karl0z at 10:13 PM 6-4-2008_


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## bpfoley (Nov 30, 2000)

*Re: (Karl0z)*

so how to you handle the heat pressed hose on it? cut it then how do you ensure a new tight connection?


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## gtimitch (Nov 20, 2006)

*Re: (bpfoley)*

Screw Clamp.


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## gtimitch (Nov 20, 2006)

*Re: (gtimitch)*

The reason for the drawings: the technical drawings in the books sometime give you more info than you need and kind-of make things confusing. I have some other drawings that are specific. Let me know if you are interested.


_Quote, originally posted by *gtimitch* »_I have a personal diagram I put together to help me make since of some of the vacuum connections. I will share it in the event it is of some help to you guys. Please note: this isn't a professional diagram and was intended for my own personal use. If you see an error let me know so I can correct it. Enjoy:

















_Modified by gtimitch at 8:26 PM 6-1-2008_


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## Karl0z (Jun 14, 2003)

*Re: (gtimitch)*

could a brake booster diafragm problem could do the same problem ?


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## bpfoley (Nov 30, 2000)

*Re: (Karl0z)*

the brake vacuum booster itself rarely goes bad, if ever. I would look at hoses and check valves leading to it before declaring it failed.


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## jahease (Mar 20, 2007)

*re*

This is how I fixed mine. Cleaned with carb cleaner, used seal all and a vice to glue it together, then wrapped it in electrical tape as tighta s I could.


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## caymandiver75 (Jul 28, 2003)

Is there a DIY for removing the intake manifold? I'd prefer not to have to remove the manifold to change out this Suction pump thing.
The dealer told me $150 for "suction pump kit", $25 for a check valve and $40 for a hose.


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## caymandiver75 (Jul 28, 2003)

Anyone?


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## Varooom (Aug 5, 1999)

*Re: (caymandiver75)*

Someone asked what it does, well, here ya go:








A sucking jet pump has a tubular casing 1, in which two flow channels 10, 24 are formed. The first flow channel 10 is the sucking jet pump and the second flow channel 24 is a bypass. The first flow channel 10 is formed by a tube 9 which is integrally formed in one piece onto an air branching piece 8. The tube 9 is in air flow connection with the second air supply nipple 14 via a lateral orifice 13. The two flow channels 10, 24 are flow-uncoupled from the first air supply nipple 6 in one direction by means of a nonreturn valve 26, the second flow channel 24 which forms the bypass being additionally closed relative to the air branching piece 8 by means of a second nonreturn valve 25.


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## gtimitch (Nov 20, 2006)

*Re: (Varooom)*

This is good information, absolutely, but can you show us a diagram to identify the tubes and pipes and ------ well all that other stuff? (tube 9, channel 10, 24 etc...)


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## Varooom (Aug 5, 1999)

*Re: (gtimitch)*

Nope


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## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

*Re: PCV experts, come take a look. (O2VW1.8T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *O2VW1.8T* »_It basically creates a small internal leak... On both my 1.8T's i removed it

mine blew apart.. junk. its now in the garbage


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## ryanj (Sep 15, 2008)

I don't know if its been mentioned but VW released a updated version a few months back. The updated version is reinforced where it always blows out. I haven't seen any of the cars that have the updated version blow out but they have only been out for a little while now.


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## hamburghelper (Nov 12, 2009)

*Suction-jet pump Function*

This explains the principle the suction-jet pump works on. Note the check valves, these close allowing boost to be developed. If the unit is damaged, you will have boost leak and vacuum leak. Neat device. I am a BMW guy, but this part is the same. I created this account expressly to share this information. I screen shotted this from BMW TIS. enjoy!
You may or may not have the solenoid that controls the jet, ignore the irrelevent parts, the jet pump can function without DME interaction.


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## motter21 (Nov 3, 2008)

*Re: Suction-jet pump Function (hamburghelper)*

So after 3 pages of discussion nobody has typed out what steps it takes to change the thing out, what parts you need to do the job, how many hours it takes, how much the stuff costs and the expected results of the job....

clazy


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## gtx4tec (Oct 20, 2009)

*Re: Suction-jet pump Function (motter21)*


_Quote, originally posted by *motter21* »_So after 3 pages of discussion nobody has typed out what steps it takes to change the thing out, what parts you need to do the job, how many hours it takes, how much the stuff costs and the expected results of the job....

clazy

4 easy bolts, and 5 mins of labor will confirm it's a 30 min job with two hose clamps.
The rest is up to you...


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## themachasy (Jan 28, 2006)

*Re: Suction-jet pump Function (gtx4tec)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtx4tec* »_
4 easy bolts, and 5 mins of labor will confirm it's a 30 min job with two hose clamps.
The rest is up to you...

I just capped the holes in the manifold, but yeah. Thats about it


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## McBee (Aug 11, 2006)

*Re: Suction-jet pump Function (themachasy)*

Well, while I was bypassing the N249 valve I must have knocked a few things around and now my suction pump is leaking around the heat/expand connection (large end with suctions). Seems to be causing some surging and I have a trip I'm making tomorrow.
My question; can I simply block the line going down 3/4 runner and cap off the other 2 ends (on TIP and under the IM), essentially removing this piece from the system? I have read through countless threads and there is conflicting answers everywhere. 
Any help is appreciated.











_Modified by McBee at 2:11 PM 12-22-2009_


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## water&air (Aug 1, 2002)

*Re: Suction-jet pump Function (McBee)*

mine broke a couple of months ago, took out my brake assist. i had nearly zero braking on a 50 mile drive....fun lol.
anyway it took me a total of 3 minutes to change it. the fact that i have a tt intake mani might have helped, but it wasn't hard to change at all.
i epoxy'd the top of the new one so it will never come apart.(i was at work and didn't have time to just delete it)


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## McBee (Aug 11, 2006)

*Re: Suction-jet pump Function (water&air)*


_Quote, originally posted by *water&air* »_mine broke a couple of months ago, took out my brake assist. i had nearly zero braking on a 50 mile drive....fun lol.
anyway it took me a total of 3 minutes to change it. the fact that i have a tt intake mani might have helped, but it wasn't hard to change at all.
i epoxy'd the top of the new one so it will never come apart.(i was at work and didn't have time to just delete it)

Yeah, I plan to replace it...I guess I am looking for a temp fix until the new one gets in. If it's truly a bad idea I will just overpay at the dealer for one so I can have it before the trip, but I would just like to just bypass it if possible.
The negatives that I have found have to deal with possible breaking issues if something else fails/gets clogged and fuel adaptation issues. I just haven't found any evidence or posts where these actually occur and cause safety concerns; more or less another safety measure on VW's part.
Thoughts? Should I be fine just running just the one check valve to the side of the IM and capped everything else?


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## McBee (Aug 11, 2006)

*Re: Suction-jet pump Function (McBee)*

I ended up just buying the upgraded piece from the dealer. It does seem to be more thought out and it appears they solved the issue where the heat press connection breaks apart.


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## fastfret7 (Jan 4, 2010)

*Re: (caymandiver75)*

Where can I buy one of these? I can't find one of these anywhere!!!!


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## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

*Re: (fastfret7)*

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/058_133_753_B/


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## fastfret7 (Jan 4, 2010)

*Re: (Andaloons)*

Thank you so much!!!


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## dee0007 (Sep 13, 2008)

*Re: (Varooom)*

when does it fail usually? and does it fail most likely if the car is chipped?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

*Re: (caymandiver75)*


_Quote, originally posted by *caymandiver75* »_Is there a DIY for removing the intake manifold? I'd prefer not to have to remove the manifold to change out this Suction pump thing.
The dealer told me $150 for "suction pump kit", $25 for a check valve and $40 for a hose. 

I haven't read this whole thread but I paid $35 for one of these PCV valves from the Audi of Huntington dealer who is usually super overpriced. I probably have the receipt and P/N at home. It was for my 1.8T AMU code.


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## bassep (Apr 11, 2010)

Bringing this back from the near dead threads.

I have an 02.5 AWP GTI - I recently replaced my breather hoses and there is no suction pump thing between my PCV valve and the intake manifold. The pipe from the PCV valve connects directly into the underside of the intake manifold. I'm kinda confused here  am I supposed to have one or not? My new PCV hose was just like the one I removed, maybe I'm missing something here?


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## bassep (Apr 11, 2010)

Well, I was missing something. Some of the vacuum system schematics on the forum do not match exactly the pipe and hose routing. My suction pump is jammed tight up underneath the IM. The input to the pump is from the underside of the IM to the left of the dipstick. The two output hoses split off to the TIP after the MAF and the other splits off to the brake booster via a check valve.
The diagrams that show the suction pump connecting to the PCV valve are not quite correct.


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## RobClubley (Jul 15, 2006)

Just thought I'd pull out my favourite diagram.
It's No. 19 here. This is an AUQ engine diagram.










I pulled mine out when I fitted the catch can.


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## bpfoley (Nov 30, 2000)

wait a minute, do you really need this thing? Could you just cap it at the manifold, TIP (or where it routes through the hardpipe under the intake manifold) and then just simplify the brake booster by removing or capping the t fitting?

It seems like this thing really does nothing except cause problems. There are already check valves to keep positive pressure out of the brake booster. I cannot for the life of me figure out why this thing is needed at all. Can someone give me a good reason why I should keep this failure-prone thing in my car?


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## mattevandavis (Jun 15, 2006)

it is a vacuum pump. It uses venturi effect to produce vacuum. its not absolutely required, but recommended.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venturi_effect


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## bassep (Apr 11, 2010)

Looking at the previous posted pictures from the BMW above I'm not so sure that it's using Venturi effect.
It looks like two seperate flow paths to me with a pintel or valve inside. My take on it is when you are under boost pressure the path from the intake manifold is forced closed and vacuum to the brake booster is assisted by the intake into the turbo through the TIP. When under idle vacuum assist is supplied through the main passage back to the intake manifold and the path to the TIP is sealed off. There are two internal check valves one for each path (IM and TIP).
In this manner vacuum assist can be supplied to the brake booster under all conditions boost or idle or just cruising along. Don't know if this is correct but I'd be glad to hear other theories.


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## cri-cri (Sep 27, 2009)

> Looking at the previous posted pictures from the BMW above I'm not so sure that it's using Venturi effect.


jet_pump


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## bassep (Apr 11, 2010)

cri-cri said:


> jet_pump


Applying the pump design to the VW suction pump then are we saying the input port is the brake booster, output is the intake manifold and middle connector is the TIP?


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## cri-cri (Sep 27, 2009)

Correct, if you also factor in the term "suction".
From the BMW diagram above:
"The suction-jet pump has two bypasses. The bypass with large cross-sectional area leads to a rapid vacuum build-up in the brake booster. The bypass with reduced cross-sectional area accelerates the air drawn in. This leads to a higher vacuum in the suction-jet pump. The vacuum to the brake booster is thus intensified."


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## bassep (Apr 11, 2010)

Much clearer now, thanks. 
Vacuum systems suck.


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## bpfoley (Nov 30, 2000)

still seems useless. I'm capping mine off.


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## mj23wizards (Nov 29, 2006)

Just a question

If i remove the suction jet pump when should i notice less braking? In all conditions? 
Do we really need 2 vacuum line for the brake booster or one is sufficient?


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## Cobra397 (Apr 5, 2006)

Mine has been broken for awhile. Exact problems listed and now im trying to figure out how to get this thing off and replaced. My question is: the hoses connected to this thing, is there any upgraded replacements for them? another words. since im taking this one piece off and disconnecting those hoses can i go ahead and upgrade those to silicone too? parts list anyone


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## machx0r (Feb 25, 2001)

Cobra397 said:


> Mine has been broken for awhile. Exact problems listed and now im trying to figure out how to get this thing off and replaced. My question is: the hoses connected to this thing, is there any upgraded replacements for them? another words. since im taking this one piece off and disconnecting those hoses can i go ahead and upgrade those to silicone too? parts list anyone


The 034 MotorSport breather kit replaces all these PCV hoses and eliminates the suction jet pump... http://www.034motorsport.com/engine...-kit-mk4-18t-reinforced-silicone-p-19987.html


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## cri-cri (Sep 27, 2009)

machx0r said:


> The 034 MotorSport breather kit replaces all these PCV hoses and eliminates the suction jet pump...


It doesn't eliminate the suction jet pump, at least not on all setups. See here:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4992710


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## chaveezy (Jan 31, 2010)

I removed mine when I installed a catch can, it's a redundant vacuum system for exactly what they said, creating vacuum under boost conditions... I dunno about you but I'm never making boost and braking at the same time.. :screwy:

It's a ridiculous system, one major vacuum source is all that's needed for brake booster systems, and as many have removed this part (including myself) and have not lost our brakes yet! :wave:

Mine has AWP stamped on the cylinder head but my vacuum system matches more to that AUQ diagram pictured above, the suction jet pump was seperate from the PCV system, pic..


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## machx0r (Feb 25, 2001)

cri-cri said:


> It doesn't eliminate the suction jet pump, at least not on all setups. See here:
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4992710


Good call. On AWW engines at least (and any other where the suction pump attaches to the PCV crankcase breather hose) it will look like this:










In this case the 034 kit will eliminate it. If your system is like AUQ engines mentioned then it sounds like eliminating it will be even easier. Either way the stock PCV hoses suck and are worth replacing :thumbup:


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## radlynx (Jan 4, 2007)

Does any had any MPG increase when you replaced your suction jet pump? I noticed the same problem on my car, MPG seems to reach around 240-260 per tank, around 11.89 Gallons of fuel.


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## SB_GLI (Oct 17, 2005)

I did a pressure test today and found that this valve had a leak. I found this piece at a napa for $32, and got it that day since their DC is in my area. Who knows how long I've been leaking from there. Stupid platic crap.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

This jet suction pump don't create vacuum under boost but when you close the TB. Your motor becomes a suction motor and you get vacuum in IM. Now this pump help open the PCV valve to suck gasses out of head and assist brake boosting. Has no function under boost other than to keep PCV valve closed.


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## TheColbster (Jan 5, 2012)

Kinda waking this thread from the dead but can anybody tell me if this mod is safe, he deletes the suction jet pump, will there be any adverse effects? 
http://myfastgti.com/volkswagen/thr...elete-Catch-Can-Install-amp-Brake-Booster-Mod


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## s_scola (Jul 4, 2012)

*Suction Jet pump problem 2003 GTI*



Seanathan said:


> Mine when it broke:



I just took a look at mine and it looks the same as yours in this photo. What did you remove to access this? I want to install the new part tomorrow.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

Check out my DIY for this...


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## Dmoe18 (Nov 30, 2010)

*help*

Hello my problem isnt as such with this piece its the L shape pipe that comes off this into the bottom of the manifold carnet find it anywhere anyone have any ideas i seen it on VagCat parts catalog it shows it as a seprate part but doesnt have a part number


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## mattevandavis (Jun 15, 2006)

RobClubley said:


> Just thought I'd pull out my favourite diagram.
> It's No. 19 here. This is an AUQ engine diagram.
> 
> 
> ...


 There is a good pic already in the tread. What L shaped pipe?


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## mattevandavis (Jun 15, 2006)

ECS sells most of this stuff. 

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-337_20AE--1.8T/Engine/Emissions/ 

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-337_20AE--1.8T/Engine/Emissions/ES2581320/ 

Most people have found that none of it is needed. I have been running with out this since the car went out of warranty. It just deteriorates. I have a feeling that it was a VW ploy to sell over priced parts to unsuspecting customers. They got me once too :facepalm:


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

Dmoe18 said:


> Hello my problem isnt as such with this piece its the L shape pipe that comes off this into the bottom of the manifold carnet find it anywhere anyone have any ideas i seen it on VagCat parts catalog it shows it as a seprate part but doesnt have a part number


 dude, you have been on vortex since nov 29, 2010 and just now posting? 

opcorn:


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## radlynx (Jan 4, 2007)

He just could not resist anymore not to speak up. :laugh: 



Slimjimmn said:


> dude, you have been on vortex since nov 29, 2010 and just now posting?
> 
> opcorn:


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## Guyver96 (Jan 17, 2007)

On the APH motors this suction pump is On top of the Intake manifold:thumbup:... But it also seems to be the Check valve for the Brake Booster,:screwy: unless someone redid it before I got the car and removed the Check valve at some point... I have already removed it completely and ran a line from that barb with a Check valve from a newer 1.8t for the brake booster. The lines from the PCV have been upgraded to AN braided lines and fittings thanks to the Ultimate SAIN249 delete thread...


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## blank22ful (Jan 6, 2014)

*bump*

I have 130000 on my car and don't believe it's ever been changed and I have a leek right where it is, the leek is air and oil but not much oil but I'm also losing half my psi and have a weird idle is my problem definitely this? does this f***er broken kill half your boost?:facepalm:


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## Guyver96 (Jan 17, 2007)

I deleted mine all together with the sai stuff. The line from the suction pump to the brake booster I connected straight to the manifold and put a metal check valve cause I had barely any brake power after high boost instant brake situations... No problems since... 

I believe its function is to maintain vacuum to your brake booster under boost and/or create a flow for the PVC system to drain the oil back to the oil filter housing instead of into your intake.. 
At least that's what I understood from the way it was routed in my car 1.8t Aph..

If you really think about it, its basically a y or T connection with 3 check valves built in..


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## krunchy (May 5, 2015)

*yup*



Guyver96 said:


> I deleted mine all together with the sai stuff. The line from the suction pump to the brake booster I connected straight to the manifold and put a metal check valve cause I had barely any brake power after high boost instant brake situations... No problems since...
> 
> I believe its function is to maintain vacuum to your brake booster under boost and/or create a flow for the PVC system to drain the oil back to the oil filter housing instead of into your intake..
> At least that's what I understood from the way it was routed in my car 1.8t Aph..
> ...




Yes i know this is an old thread, but been experiencing this problem on my 2003 1.8t automatic. The above is correct, and as for those inquiring about symptoms from this pump you should experience the following:

1. you will be able to hear a small air leak (kind of like the diverter valve pssh sound)
2. if the pump is completely out, or disconnected, the entire car will shake on idle.
3. brake pad sensor light will sporadically come on considering your brake booster levels are sporadic (thing tends to bounce around in there)
4. you will feel a decrease in brake performance, even when the pump is connected (again, it tends to bounce around)
5. also, any attempt at building boost will pop the thing out, in my experience anything over 4000ish tends to become too much pressure for it to stay in.

note: epoxy can work as a TEMPORARY fix but will simply not hold long term due to the air pressure and heat passing through those lines.
used this and it worked for a few weeks until it popped out again.

also, if youre forced to "fondle" this thing a lot, make sure you check the lines around the intake manifold like your fuel pressure regulator lines (the ones that are made of that soft material), as i found over time these things rip and cause additional small leaks, all these can throw you a bunch of codes and cause mass airflow sensor issues, missfires, o2 sensor issues, etc.

to help out, here are some of the codes ive experienced :

-) P0130 02 (O2 sensor)
-) p0300 to p0304, all missfire codes, could be due to a leaky valve cover gasket though, replaced and these went away
-)P0102 (some malfunction with the mass airflow sensor)
-)P1207 (fuel injector electrical circuit, unsure if this is related)

any advice or clearing up of the info above would be great as these are just things ive come to believe on my own without professional opinion, thanks!


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## chiragkapadia (Jan 30, 2011)

I have got the Suction Pump to replace but for some reason I am unable to pull the small hose attached to one of the outlets. I did not use much force to break it as I wasnt sure if I was going to replace it or not. The car has run 100,000 miles and I have never replaced this. A bunch of PCV stuff was replaced apart form this. However I wish to replace this but I do not want to spend 150$ for the full set of hoses when I can just replace the 20$ part (058133753D)

See below the circled hose which is not coming off the suction jet. Tried with some WD40 and putting a little heat to it.. no luck.. 

Can anyone help?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

chiragkapadia said:


> I have got the Suction Pump to replace but for some reason I am unable to pull the small hose attached to one of the outlets. I did not use much force to break it as I wasnt sure if I was going to replace it or not. The car has run 100,000 miles and I have never replaced this. A bunch of PCV stuff was replaced apart form this. However I wish to replace this but I do not want to spend 150$ for the full set of hoses when I can just replace the 20$ part (058133753D)
> 
> See below the circled hose which is not coming off the suction jet. Tried with some WD40 and putting a little heat to it.. no luck..
> 
> Can anyone help?


That is a plastic hose that was melted into shape. Use a sharp box cutter and score a cut on each side. Then just bend it over and it'll split in two. You can replace it with a piece of rubber hose.


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## chiragkapadia (Jan 30, 2011)

Thanks.. I was thinking of breaking it off but wasnt sure if a normal rubber hose would suffice.

100,000 miles and I think this should have been toast way before after being chipped.


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## Kylehershberger (Nov 7, 2020)

O2VW1.8T said:


> It basically creates a small internal leak... On both my 1.8T's i removed it


What did you do to delete this part


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Read the faq

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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