# How to: GET RID OF THE BEEPING!!!! ... Oil pressure



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

****Disclaimer: if you have not modified your oil system in some way, IE external oil cooler, this should not be a solution for you, most likely there is another concern for you issue.****Thanks to Oddjobb and PS2375, the correct fittings are M10x1.0, it would be wise to use this thread sizing

Ever since I've installed a eurosport oil cooler I've been plagued with oil pressure beeping non stop when my temps reach over 140F (oil pressure ~35psi or below over 2k rpms).... doesn't matter how thick of oil I use, I've even used 50wt in the winter :screwy: It won't make it thick enough to increase the pressure to stop the extremely annoying beeping which makes yourself as well as your passengers want to punch you straight in your face.

So I have tried an assortment of things to try and get it to stop... and from many months ago (over yrs)until yesterday and today, I have finally found a solution 

If you have this constant oil pressure beeping issue you can try the following
#1: replace your white high pressure (oil filter housing) and blue low pressure (cylinder head) sensors
- if that doesn't work move on to what I did as a suggestion
#2 Relocate your low pressure sensor to the filter housing. Since I have a turbo feed and oil pressure sender I had to install a T-fitting like this... of course you'll need a 1/8npt plug for the head... or if you bought a new sensor anyways, just leave the old one up there.








Than I grounded my high pressure signal wire to the head.









This worked for me... of course this is just my temp. solution for now, I'll make a better grounding wire later..... Between today and yesterday the difference is I grounded the high pressure signal wire...without doing that it didn't work

I got my fittings at Speedwaymotors.com
Enjoy the beeping relief


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

So you disabled the low oil press warning system? And you are now reliant on looking at the gauge? This seems to be a band-aid and not a real fix. I would be worried about the oil press at the head, as that is where the high press switch should be and having low press up there is not a good thing. And for a true reading on oil press, that is where the gauges press sender should be also. If installing the oil cooler caused a drop in oil press, something is not right. I've installed a few oil coolers in my time, and have never had any oil press problems, ever. Does yours have a thermo sandwich plate or not?

And you know that those oil press sensor threads are not 1/8npt, but 10MX1.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

ps2375 said:


> So you disabled the low oil press warning system? And you are now reliant on looking at the gauge? This seems to be a band-aid and not a real fix. I would be worried about the oil press at the head, as that is where the high press switch should be and having low press up there is not a good thing. And for a true reading on oil press, that is where the gauges press sender should be also. If installing the oil cooler caused a drop in oil press, something is not right. I've installed a few oil coolers in my time, and have never had any oil press problems, ever. Does yours have a thermo sandwich plate or not?
> 
> And you know that those oil press sensor threads are not 1/8npt, but 10MX1.


I believe you sir are mistaken 

Eurosport even states in their kit it will produce a drop in oil pressure, there is no thermo stat switch in my setup. In my experience going from a typical coolant to air oil cooler produces a pressure drop as the pump has to push the oil through a different medium which now has a much larger volume.... this also isn't my first rodeo. We are speaking of like 5psi drop here.....its just barely below the threashold of the OE system 2-3k rpms... that's the only time the sensor goes off.

A true oil pressure gauge is mounted off of the pump, you want to read the highest reading because that is what your bearings will see. The high pressure sensor (white 1.8bar) on this motor is off the filter housing, the low pressure sensor (blue 0.25 bar) is on the head. Only motor's which have some crazy VVT need extreme pressure in the head, for example, an S2000 motor has a crazy high volume pump, one of the largest ever, because a 9k rpm the amount of oil it needs to push for Vtech is insane.

This is in deed a band-aid, there is no 'fix' unless you are going to change the oil pump.... eurosport and may others run this type of kit, there is no concern for engine failures, I've been using it for 2 yrs.... what's the concern of relying on an oil pressure gauge? I always know I have pressure its not like its hard to see sitting on the pillar...

... and I'm 99% certain those are 1/8npt as the threads on the OE sensor matches the threads on my aftermarket sensor, both the one which is already on the car and the one which is sitting in my other car ready to go in.... and they all fit like butter like they should. :thumbup:


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## OddJobb (Nov 6, 2004)

FYI: the threads on the oil filter flange and cylinder head are 10 x 1.0 mm, NOT 1/8 NPT. If you use a 1/8 NPT fitting it will work BUT you risk stripping the threads. I just bought a replacement filter flange from you to fix this, so ask me how I know. Get a 10 x 1.0 mm fitting and a copper crush washer.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

You want the oil press gauge sender mounted in the most remote location to see the lowest oil press in the system, and the most remote location is at the head. What good is it to see the highest system pressure when something at the other end could be starving for oil?


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

OddJobb said:


> FYI: the threads on the oil filter flange and cylinder head are 10 x 1.0 mm, NOT 1/8 NPT. If you use a 1/8 NPT fitting it will work BUT you risk stripping the threads. I just bought a replacement filter flange from you to fix this, so ask me how I know. Get a 10 x 1.0 mm fitting and a copper crush washer.


oh dear, well good thing my 1/8npt unthreaded and the new one thread right back in with no problems.... no leaks so I don't think I'm gunna touch it 
My 1/8npt oil sender I've been running for 8yrs threaded into the filter housing.
... and now I know why you asked if they were stripped, still has the plugs in them... I never even touched that housing besides when I took it off the block :laugh:


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

ps2375 said:


> You want the oil press gauge sender mounted in the most remote location to see the lowest oil press in the system, and the most remote location is at the head. What good is it to see the highest system pressure when something at the other end could be starving for oil?


That's a very good point, but that is not why the guages go up to or past 100psi, you'll never see that on most engines at the head. Every system will have a high pressure sensor, OE or aftermarket (dry sump systems) guaranteed. If the pump is providing the adquate pressure there is only a very unique reason why some where else could be starving from oil no?
For example, your pump should not be able to pick up something that should block the system down stream (they have filters and screens).

Either way, since you've been around for a while you may know there has been numerous threads on how to disable the pressure sensors with no solution, I found a solution.
I've been running my car for 2 yrs with no concerns, the issue only appears in a very small window for the rpm band... I have zero concern with my setup, although I should put a disclamer.


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## OddJobb (Nov 6, 2004)

ps2375 said:


> You want the oil press gauge sender mounted in the most remote location to see the lowest oil press in the system, and the most remote location is at the head. What good is it to see the highest system pressure when something at the other end could be starving for oil?


I disagree. The problems with the oil pressure alarm/sending units occur mostly on the high pressure side. You can disable one sender without disabling the other. I mounted my pressure gauge sending unit in the same place (oil filter housing bracket) and disabled the high pressure switch as he did. If you leave the low pressure switch unit in the head, you'll know you have sufficient oil pressure at start-up because if you do not, the alarm will go off. I wouldn't relocate the low pressure switch as he did however.


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## travietrav (Sep 10, 2010)

Holy **** your a f ing life saver!!!!... Bout to go and try it now


---
I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?cmkzvt


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

travietrav said:


> Holy **** your a f ing life saver!!!!... Bout to go and try it now
> 
> 
> ---
> I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?cmkzvt


Try what oddjob mentioned.... try grounding out the high pressure switch only.... 
I tried so many things I'm not quite sure if I did that one specifically, think I did but can't be certain after so many months.


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## OddJobb (Nov 6, 2004)

GTijoejoe said:


> Try what oddjob mentioned.... try grounding out the high pressure switch only....
> I tried so many things I'm not quite sure if I did that one specifically, think I did but can't be certain after so many months.


To do this simply disconnect the connector on the pressure switch and ground it to the block or something. You may want to do this temporarily to check to see if the beeping stops. If it does then the pressure switch is the problem. If not, there's a problem with the wiring in the circuit, or worse, the instrument cluster.


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