# Thoughts on Paddles Valves?



## JrJanowski (Sep 11, 2011)

Looking to get my first air ride setup for my MKIV GTI and can get a new kit of air lift slam series for around 1650 all said and done for manual management and paddle valves..Ive heard paddle valves make the car smell and other things but I'm not sure how they even work. Not sure if i should just start off bag over coil since i can get the fronts for 20 bucks from a friend and piece it together for around $1,000.. thoughts?
Car in question:


----------



## crispy21 (Mar 26, 2012)

Pros
-nothing can really go wrong since no electricity involved
- reliable as ****
- cheap
- simplest management
- works without battery 

cons
-slow airing out
-smelly
-install can be a bitch cuz of all the lines
- not really flashy or fun
- lift times could be quicker

theyre simple one line from the paddle goes to the air tank and the other goes directly to the bag.


----------



## Chris Anderson (Jun 18, 2012)

i have manual management and im happy with it. the car doesnt smell when you air out (or maybe im just used to it, idk). i dont mind the slow air out time either. although it would be nice just to touch a button and have it air up electronically. overall, im happy with it and its what i could afford it at the time :thumbup:


----------



## boostingti4ever (May 17, 2011)

i like my manual kit, install was sort of a pain but other than that no complaints.


----------



## cldub (Jul 2, 2010)

Chris Anderson said:


> i have manual management and im happy with it. the car doesnt smell when you air out (or maybe im just used to it, idk). i dont mind the slow air out time either. although it would be nice just to touch a button and have it air up electronically. overall, im happy with it and its what i could afford it at the time :thumbup:


When I car-sat your car, I didn't notice any funny smells :thumbup:


----------



## leftygibsonplyr (Feb 16, 2006)

I have manual management. Definitely was the best option for me as I'm not good with electric anything. I dont notice any smell or anything really. The paddle valves essentially dump the air into the car..smells like air that comes out of an air compressor? lol. I dont feel that the lift/drop times are slow either (personally). I've never played with any other setup than mine though.


----------



## [email protected] (Aug 22, 2006)

Paddle valve systems are excellent in terms of reliability. There are very few parts to break and with the lack of an ecu or a digital controller, it's always going to work. 

We've got a revised paddle valve system in the works that reduces the number of fittings needed and also cleans up all the plumbing


----------



## JrJanowski (Sep 11, 2011)

Thanks for all the input guys! Would it be easy to switch from paddle valves to an analog controller in the near future or no?


----------



## [email protected] (Feb 19, 2010)

JrJanowski said:


> Thanks for all the input guys! Would it be easy to switch from paddle valves to an analog controller in the near future or no?


Yes, it's fairly straight forward. 

Take a look at these two install manuals to get an idea of the differences in plumbing up a manual kit vs an analog kit:

Manual Install Guide

Analog Install Guide

:thumbup:


----------



## [email protected] (Aug 22, 2006)

JrJanowski said:


> Thanks for all the input guys! Would it be easy to switch from paddle valves to an analog controller in the near future or no?


It's going to be somewhat cumbersome depending on which paddle setup you go with. The only real pain would be removing the line(s) that run forward to the cabin from the trunk. And, well, of course, you're going to have to remove the paddles and chances are you'll have some sort of hole where those were residing. If you do an analog setup with the VU4 manifold, you will need to either switch your entire system to 3/8" line or buy 1/4" reducers. 

There is definitely work involved in switching over, don't let anyone fool you on that.


----------



## BIG_ANT (Mar 3, 2007)

I've never had paddle valve but looks like that part has been answered anyways. As far as Air Lift struts or bag over coil, I would just do the Air Lift. Actually just had the discussion yesterday about the strut dampening, how low and the actual process of putting the struts together on bag over coil. It might save you a few bucks up front but you sacrifice ride quality and time on installation. 


Sent from my coconut carrying Swallow. African or European?


----------



## [email protected] (Aug 22, 2006)

BIG_ANT said:


> I've never had paddle valve but looks like that part has been answered anyways. As far as Air Lift struts or bag over coil, I would just do the Air Lift. Actually just had the discussion yesterday about the strut dampening, how low and the actual process of putting the struts together on bag over coil. It might save you a few bucks up front but you sacrifice ride quality and time on installation.
> 
> 
> Sent from my coconut carrying Swallow. African or European?


You mean this conversation?

Calculating the spring rate of an air bag is much harder than calculating the spring rate of a typical metal coil spring. Spring rate is defined as the amount weight (typically in lbs) needed to compress a spring one inch. Typically spring rates are calculated using the equation:

k = Gd^4/8nD^3 

in this equation:

k = spring constant, pounds of load per inch of deflection
G = modulus of rigidity
n = number of active spring coils
D = wire diameter or coil diameter - measured in inches

Because we cannot plug in raw numerical values for air springs, it becomes increasingly harder to figure out the exact spring rate. Furthermore in the world of air springs, both pressure and volume need to be taken into consideration when trying to calculate spring rate - again, it's not as easy as it would be with a set of coil springs. 

There are a two things that are certain more often than not and they are: larger bags will lift more weight but have a lower spring rate and smaller bags will not be able to support as much load but will have a higher spring rate. Spring rate with regard to air ride is definitely a function of bag pressure and volume. 

Another variable that has to be taken into consideration is the material used in bag construction. The thicker the material, the more weight the bag will support and the less pressure it will need to lift the vehicle. It's very tough to calculate the exact spring rate of air springs because there are (in a sense) too many unknowns. 

Without breaking out paper and an abacus, you could always set your car at maximum height and consistently add weight until the vehicle drops one inch and do the same at ride height. This will show you that spring rate will vary dependent upon pressure and not just volume. It's a pretty 'raw' method of figuring out the spring rate, but it should give you a general idea of the spring rate of your air springs.

OP, you're better off buying a set of AirLift front struts as the ride quality will be much better. :thumbup::beer:


----------



## no vtec 4me (Aug 1, 2006)

Im gonna jump in here and say you will be wayyyy better off saving up a few more bucks, and doing a little more research on how to do electrical work and buying atleast an analog kit with a vu4 manifold. With how affordable everything has become over the last few years there's really no excuse for paddle vlaves imo. They're slow to air up and down, prone to leaking at the valves, require alot of plumbing through your interior, very low "fun" or "bling" factor, and are a pain to find somewhere to mount them. 

And as far as struts, bags over coils are a thing of the past unless theyre a last resort. Owning a mk4 youre lucky enough that there are a few bolt in options for you. Save up for some airlift xl's and you will be more than happy. Ive had a car with boc's and i will assure you youll either not be low enough, or be so tired of the ride quality you wont even want to drive the car. 

just my $.02


----------



## Twilliams83 (Jan 25, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> It's going to be somewhat cumbersome depending on which paddle setup you go with. The only real pain would be removing the line(s) that run forward to the cabin from the trunk. And, well, of course, you're going to have to remove the paddles and chances are you'll have some sort of hole where those were residing. If you do an analog setup with the VU4 manifold, you will need to either switch your entire system to 3/8" line or buy 1/4" reducers.
> 
> There is definitely work involved in switching over, don't let anyone fool you on that.


Switching from manual to elevel, not including the time to set the sensors up, only took me 3 hours. Definitely not hard at all. Pulled lines out of the cabin, used the old lines to run from the vu4 to yhe bags and boom i was done with that. And the electrical wasnt very hard either


----------



## crispy21 (Mar 26, 2012)

no vtec 4me said:


> Im gonna jump in here and say you will be wayyyy better off saving up a few more bucks, and doing a little more research on how to do electrical work and buying atleast an analog kit with a vu4 manifold. With how affordable everything has become over the last few years there's really no excuse for paddle valves imo. They're slow to air up and down, prone to leaking at the valves, require alot of plumbing through your interior, very low "fun" or "bling" factor, and are a pain to find somewhere to mount them.
> 
> 
> just my $.02


i agree somewhat, although a typical analog kit with a swtichbox is essentially the same as paddles, in the way there are no presets. I will be running an avs to vu4 because of the fact that i can ride with the switchbox on my lap and it has a a pancake button. paddles also have a slight smell and i dont want that in this new car. but paddles are a solid option, for someone not looking for any "special features"


----------



## [email protected] (Aug 22, 2006)

Twilliams83 said:


> Switching from manual to elevel, not including the time to set the sensors up, only took me 3 hours. Definitely not hard at all. Pulled lines out of the cabin, used the old lines to run from the vu4 to yhe bags and boom i was done with that. And the electrical wasnt very hard either


I didn't say it was hard, I said it took time. :thumbup::beer:

Switching from an analog setup to e-Level would take even less time due to the fact that you already have the VU4.


----------



## Jake2k (Nov 25, 2010)

I'd say if you could afford to throw in a bit more cash or save up till you can it would be worth it to go with a simple analog setup with a VU4 but if you really can't spend any more money and want them now then go with the manual setup.


----------



## rockin16v (Aug 31, 2001)

[email protected] said:


> We've got a revised paddle valve system in the works that reduces the number of fittings needed and also cleans up all the plumbing


can you PM the details on this? i have 4 manual valves and i find they are a bit slow. Does your revised paddle address air flow as well as plumbing?

picture / price / availability?

thanks


----------



## [email protected] (Feb 19, 2010)

rockin16v said:


> can you PM the details on this? i have 4 manual valves and i find they are a bit slow. Does your revised paddle address air flow as well as plumbing?
> 
> picture / price / availability?
> 
> thanks


Are you more concerned with lift speed or drop speed?


----------



## crispy21 (Mar 26, 2012)

rockin16v said:


> can you PM the details on this? i have 4 manual valves and i find they are a bit slow. Does your revised paddle address air flow as well as plumbing?
> 
> picture / price / availability?
> 
> thanks


id also be interested in these details


----------



## rockin16v (Aug 31, 2001)

[email protected] said:


> Are you more concerned with lift speed or drop speed?


inside a 1/4" paddle valve, it's the same. But to answer your question - both.

is your paddle valve a different design that allows lift and drop to be different speeds?


----------



## macleanshaun (Sep 19, 2008)

Each paddle has a fill/dump function? So I'd need 4 paddles, one for each corner? Or is it one paddle does fill, another does dump, 8 total?


----------



## crispy21 (Mar 26, 2012)

Yes you only need 4


----------



## Jayy (Jun 15, 2008)

crispy21 said:


> Pros
> -nothing can really go wrong since no electricity involved
> - *reliable as ****!*
> - cheap
> ...


this


----------



## zacharys666 (Jan 28, 2008)

I like mine, never thought they were smelly, and the lift and drop speed is a bit slower than i'd like but I can deal with that. It's a good option if your on a budget and/or you want a more basic setup.


----------



## JrJanowski (Sep 11, 2011)

Think im going with the paddle valve setup as im not looking to air up or out in a seconds time. Im fine with a ten second air out time as long as i can lay on the ground just like everyone else and have the ride comfort like everyone else.


----------



## crispy21 (Mar 26, 2012)

If you want more lift speed just use 4 supply lines instead of 2. Someone tried drilling into one of them but it didnt speed up drop times


----------



## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

Where are you mounting the gauges and paddles? Make sure there is room for all of the air lines. Manual sucks to install, but is dumb reliable. If you think you want to switch later on, personally I would save up so you don't have to do it twice, especially if your cutting vinyl for the paddles. I've only done a few manual installs but it can be a pain. Like we installed a complete v2 in 7-8 hours including the truck layout.


----------



## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

.


----------



## mango-smoothie (Jan 25, 2011)

crispy21 said:


> If you want more lift speed just use 4 supply lines instead of 2. Someone tried drilling into one of them but it didnt speed up drop times


this will not work. the limitation is the internal port diameter (not the 1/4 in/out ports)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...a-manual-paddle-valve&p=81395134#post81395134


----------



## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> You mean this conversation?
> 
> Calculating the spring rate of an air bag is much harder than calculating the spring rate of a typical metal coil spring. Spring rate is defined as the amount weight (typically in lbs) needed to compress a spring one inch. Typically spring rates are calculated using the equation:
> 
> ...


I'm glad you are finally bringing calculations up, it's important for people to know that much more is involved than they realize lol.

This equation just starts to become fun when you realize that you are talking about a hollow bag and that the diameter changes based on both pressure and weight, you end up having to double integrate the spring rate over the sidewall profile.

But then again if the OP was this smart and knew how to do this properly he wouldn't have even considered going BOC over a properly designed air strut


----------



## JrJanowski (Sep 11, 2011)

Got my rear bags, tank, and compressor and relay, just looking for front struts and management


----------



## Jesster (Mar 28, 2007)

I've had both analog and paddle setups in the past. At this point in my life, even though I can afford to pay for e-level or the other high-end management systems, ill still be installing paddles in the next car I bag. The simplicity of the whole system outweighs anything else out there in my opinion.


----------



## JrJanowski (Sep 11, 2011)

Jesster said:


> I've had both analog and paddle setups in the past. At this point in my life, even though I can afford to pay for e-level or the other high-end management systems, ill still be installing paddles in the next car I bag. The simplicity of the whole system outweighs anything else out there in my opinion.


Glad to hear. Ordered all my stuff, got a cheap paddle setup from the classifieds, got a 400cc compressor and tank for 100 and ordered brand new xls and ss5 rear bags with d cups with my discount. All said in done im looking at roughly $1300 to go up and down. And i have my old coilovers to offset the cost.


----------



## leftygibsonplyr (Feb 16, 2006)

JrJanowski said:


> Glad to hear. Ordered all my stuff, got a cheap paddle setup from the classifieds, got a 400cc compressor and tank for 100 and ordered brand new xls and ss5 rear bags with d cups with my discount. All said in done im looking at roughly $1300 to go up and down. And i have my old coilovers to offset the cost.


Sounds like you got some good deals and made it work with your budget. :thumbup: I think you'll be really happy with the paddle valves personally. :beer:


----------



## NotoriousWithaG (Apr 28, 2005)

JrJanowski said:


> Glad to hear. Ordered all my stuff, got a cheap paddle setup from the classifieds, got a 400cc compressor and tank for 100 and ordered brand new xls and ss5 rear bags with d cups with my discount. All said in done im looking at roughly $1300 to go up and down. And i have my old coilovers to offset the cost.


:beer::beer:


----------



## macleanshaun (Sep 19, 2008)

Jesster said:


> I've had both analog and paddle setups in the past. At this point in my life, even though I can afford to pay for e-level or the other high-end management systems, ill still be installing paddles in the next car I bag. The simplicity of the whole system outweighs anything else out there in my opinion.



This.


Question about the valves and supply lines... I searched around and didn't find anything in regards to this, but I was thinking that if I run 2 x 1/4" lines from the tank, Y off each to each valve, would this make for a much slower fill time than to run 2 x 3/8" lines from the trunk, Y off those, into 1/4" line to the valves? Seems like the 1/4" line being split would be a bit of a bottleneck for airflow into the bags when I'm pressing more than one at a time.


----------



## FlybyGLI (Jun 20, 2008)

With my paddle setup I ran two 3/8" lines up to the front of the car, reduced them to 1/4" lines then immediately split them to 4 4 the valves, before that I just had 1/4" lines. Honestly, I really didn't notice a difference. Bottom line is, the air can only go in and out of the valve at a certain speed, determined by size of the openings within. So larger supply lines to the valves doesn't really do much I guess. Larger valves are key.


----------



## leftygibsonplyr (Feb 16, 2006)

I've never understood the desire to get the car to raise/lower more quickly. I have 1/4 line throughout. To air the car up to my desired ride height it takes maybe 3-4 seconds for the front, and another 3-4 seconds for the rear (if that, from 0 psi). To air out, it maybe takes 4-5 seconds for the front and 4-5 seconds for the rears? I guess i'm just never in that much of a hurry. lol. :laugh:


----------



## FlybyGLI (Jun 20, 2008)

leftygibsonplyr said:


> I've never understood the desire to get the car to raise/lower more quickly. I have 1/4 line throughout. To air the car up to my desired ride height it takes maybe 3-4 seconds for the front, and another 3-4 seconds for the rear (if that, from 0 psi). To air out, it maybe takes 4-5 seconds for the front and 4-5 seconds for the rears? I guess i'm just never in that much of a hurry. lol. :laugh:


My thoughts as well. Which is why I still have 1/4" lines with my V2.


----------



## macleanshaun (Sep 19, 2008)

I guess just from seeing some people's videos or descriptions was that it takes more like 10 seconds + to drop and fill.
4-5 isn't even bad at all.


----------



## leftygibsonplyr (Feb 16, 2006)

macleanshaun said:


> I guess just from seeing some people's videos or descriptions was that it takes more like 10 seconds + to drop and fill.
> 4-5 isn't even bad at all.


Ya. It's not 10 seconds. If i have some time tomorrow I'll take a video of my airing up/down with 1/4 air line throughout using the paddle valves. The whole video might be a little more than 10 seconds. lol.


----------



## crispy21 (Mar 26, 2012)

im in the process of modifying 4 of these suckers to get super quick drop times. i have 4 paddles laying around so why not. if it fails ill just go with avs/vu4. if it works i may just use them afterall...


----------



## jonpwn (Aug 13, 2010)

i've had paddle valves for almost 3 months now as part of my first air ride setup ever. I'm not picky about rise and drop speeds but I did want the drop to be even so i ordered a pair of flow control valves.. although one of them is acting funky. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261179926081?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I haven't spoiled myself with analog or digital management yet, and it seems that everyone who says paddle valves aren't worth it are the ones who either skipped or upgraded from paddles. Of course I would imagine the latter two are "better" systems overall, but they were pricey.

Talk to [email protected], he helped me put together a complete custom kit for a very good price using paddle valves. I would like to hear about his revised paddle set up though.


----------



## crispy21 (Mar 26, 2012)

jonpwn said:


> i've had paddle valves for almost 3 months now as part of my first air ride setup ever. I'm not picky about rise and drop speeds but I did want the drop to be even so i ordered a pair of flow control valves.. although one of them is acting funky.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/261179926081?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
> 
> ...


Howd you like the flow controls?


----------



## Residentevol (Sep 19, 2000)

Been riding around on paddle valves for 3 years now. Other than a few leaks from having to slam jam a ton of airlines into a tight fit they have been 100% reliable. 

That being said if there was a way to dump the air outside the car or at least route it away from the switches that would be nice. 

Getting ready to throw e-level in my car now so if you need to get on air NOW and are on a tight budget go ahead you won't be dissappointed however there may come a time in the near future where you want more of a automated control....


----------



## jonpwn (Aug 13, 2010)

crispy21 said:


> Howd you like the flow controls?


still fine tuning them. Only found out yesterday that they control only one direction of airflow, so i'm trying to focus on getting them to make the car drop at the same speed. I only experiment when I need to drive the car cause i don't want to run the compressors without turning the car on.

In theory you can use four to control up and down speed, two on each line in opposite directions. 

someone on the forums also mentioned this which would probably work better. 

http://www.fastenal.com/web/product...Search&rfqXref=&rfqKeyword=&rfqId=&rfqLineId=


btw with manual management i don't have any funky smells or leaks on the PTC's and barbed nipple connections. Only leaks I had were from brass fittings, which could happen to any management.


----------



## JrJanowski (Sep 11, 2011)

Thanks for the info guys, Do you think i will clear the bag up front running 18x8.5 et25..It doesnt clear coil very much and i know the bags are pretty big


----------



## FlybyGLI (Jun 20, 2008)

You will likely need a small spacer


----------



## JrJanowski (Sep 11, 2011)

FlybyGLI said:


> You will likely need a small spacer


I'm hearing yes here and no other places. Anyone got a better idea to reinforce it?


----------



## BIG_ANT (Mar 3, 2007)

I'm running 18x8.5 et 35 fronts and I am only a few mm away from my bag. I have BagYard so they are a little different but I think you'll be fine. 


Sent from my coconut carrying Swallow. African or European?


----------



## euro+tuner (Feb 1, 2007)

JrJanowski said:


> Thanks for the info guys, Do you think i will clear the bag up front running 18x8.5 et25..It doesnt clear coil very much and i know the bags are pretty big


I run 18x8.5 et 20 up front. I'll go take a look underneath today and see how much clearance there is, and whether you could safely pull it in another 5mm. :thumbup:


----------



## r3coil (Aug 22, 2011)

JrJanowski said:


> Thanks for the info guys, Do you think i will clear the bag up front running 18x8.5 et25..It doesnt clear coil very much and i know the bags are pretty big


I cleared 8.5 et25 on my bags no problem. I have the standard airlift slam xl's up front. 

now I have 8.5 et35 and I also clear without issue. the bag sits above my tire and doesn't come close.


----------



## JrJanowski (Sep 11, 2011)

r3coil said:


> I cleared 8.5 et25 on my bags no problem. I have the standard airlift slam xl's up front.
> 
> now I have 8.5 et35 and I also clear without issue. the bag sits above my tire and doesn't come close.


Awesome, wasnt trying to buy a spacer as i like how it sits now.. also dont wanna rub through 800 dollar bags immediately after installing :laugh: Anyone have a video of these paddle valves airing out? Im curious as to the times, i need to see it.


----------



## leftygibsonplyr (Feb 16, 2006)

JrJanowski said:


> Awesome, wasnt trying to buy a spacer as i like how it sits now.. also dont wanna rub through 800 dollar bags immediately after installing :laugh: Anyone have a video of these paddle valves airing out? Im curious as to the times, i need to see it.


It's going to vary on the setup (sleeve bag vs double bellow) and what height you want to drive/how much pressure is in the bag. I can take a video of mine tonight when i get home if you want. you might be able to find something similar on youtube though. mine are sleeved (airlift lifestyles) so it might be a little different than what you'll eventually get, but probably not much. What PSI do you want to see it air out from? Seems like most people on here ride around 50-70psi in the fronts iirc. I drive around at about 85psi in the front 55-60 in the rear.


----------



## JrJanowski (Sep 11, 2011)

leftygibsonplyr said:


> It's going to vary on the setup (sleeve bag vs double bellow) and what height you want to drive/how much pressure is in the bag. I can take a video of mine tonight when i get home if you want. you might be able to find something similar on youtube though. mine are sleeved (airlift lifestyles) so it might be a little different than what you'll eventually get, but probably not much. What PSI do you want to see it air out from? Seems like most people on here ride around 50-70psi in the fronts iirc. I drive around at about 85psi in the front 55-60 in the rear.


I got ss5 in the rear so double bellow with air lift slam xls in the front. Not sure what psi ill be running yet, but i was 22.25" ftg static so driving low wont be a problem, also want a good idea on how little psi i can physically drive slow with without messing anything up, such as my fenders :thumbup:


----------



## leftygibsonplyr (Feb 16, 2006)

JrJanowski said:


> I got ss5 in the rear so double bellow with air lift slam xls in the front. Not sure what psi ill be running yet, but i was 22.25" ftg static so driving low wont be a problem, also want a good idea on how little psi i can physically drive slow with without messing anything up, such as my fenders :thumbup:


well, if you want me to make a quick video of mine with with 1/4in line and my sleeve bags inflated to around 50-60 psi or whatever you want, i can do it...just let me know.


----------



## JrJanowski (Sep 11, 2011)

leftygibsonplyr said:


> well, if you want me to make a quick video of mine with with 1/4in line and my sleeve bags inflated to around 50-60 psi or whatever you want, i can do it...just let me know.


do it!


----------



## leftygibsonplyr (Feb 16, 2006)

JrJanowski said:


> do it!


It's uploading now...the fronts are extremely fast (maybe 3sec max)...the rear, not quite as fast as i thought. Think it took me 6 seconds to air out the rear to 0psi. I never leave the rears at 0psi anyway though. I sit on the tire with like 20-30psi left in the bags.


----------



## leftygibsonplyr (Feb 16, 2006)

[No message]


----------



## crispy21 (Mar 26, 2012)

Dude why would you not take a vid from outside the car lol so we could see it air out haha


----------



## leftygibsonplyr (Feb 16, 2006)

crispy21 said:


> Dude why would you not take a vid from outside the car lol so we could see it air out haha


I don't live with anyone besides my gf who wasn't home at the time.I didnt have anywhere to stand the phone up. Hard to hit the switches that are inside the car and film the car dropping.  :laugh: if you guys want an exterior video i can try and put something together tomorrow. Mainly just needed to see how fast the car goes to zero psi anyway.


----------



## leftygibsonplyr (Feb 16, 2006)

crispy21 said:


> Dude why would you not take a vid from outside the car lol so we could see it air out haha


Just for you friend. Gf came home and I asked her to shoot the video for me real quick. Fronts are hard to see how low/fast its goin and 60psi in the fronts isn't a lot in those bags either.


----------



## JrJanowski (Sep 11, 2011)

that is so awesome! clean car as well. Where did you mount your switches?


----------



## leftygibsonplyr (Feb 16, 2006)

JrJanowski said:


> that is so awesome! clean car as well. Where did you mount your switches?


They are mounted on the bottom part of the dash/kick panel on the drivers side. Right in front of where you left leg would be. If you look closely, you can see them in this pic.


----------

