# Need help piecing together a BT setup



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

I've been wanting to go BT for over a year now and I'm finally coming around to having the funding to do it. However, the funding is not shall we say "great". My paychecks and credit card allow for a little wiggle room but not everything can be done at one shot. This is why I'm trying to open up myself to options. I need opinions on what I should do.

As of right now my factory k03-052 has a cracked exhaust housing however is still operational. My kinetic high flow exhaust manifold has a cracked turbo flange however also is still operational. My exhaust was self fabricated with a buddy maybe 2-3 years ago and it's seen its better days. All things of which should be replaced in the near future.

With all that in mind I'd like to start replacing everything with BT parts. Considering the car is a daily and keeping my budget in mind I'm looking for a setup that can perform well without over doing it as well as something I can tune down until I can afford internals such as rods and clutch. I'm open to all opinions and suggestions. I don't want to hear anything about BT on stock internals is a bad idea blah blah. The limits of the stock internals are good for around 300ft/lbs and I'm well aware of that. I would never try to push more on stock internals but I want a setup that is capable of exceeding those limits (something that is so to say "future proof".)

Thanks for reading, all help is appreciated to every extent.


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## xpxhxoxexnxixxx (May 17, 2007)

I cant tell you which kit/turbo to go with because its merely opinion on here, but...

IMO- start buying everything- be it a full kit, fuel pump, lines, fittings, etc AND buy the rods/rings, HG, etc BEFORE you put it all on. Its not a question of running a bt kit on stock internals. Its the premise of having to do things 2 times instead of once the right way. A few points on this:

- Taking the time to buy all of the parts and lay them out before you install will give you good perspective of how the kit will install, and anything else you might be missing. The last thing you want to do is put things in, then say wow i just found out they make a manual belt tensioner, and want to tear down stuff to put that in as well. 
- Taking the time to buy all of the parts will also give you extra time to find out who else has done a setup similar to how you want it, and contact them and suppliers as well. 

There is really no use of slapping BT parts on a car that will just be torn down again and built up. Yeah you can run it conservatively, but then whats the fun/point in that? If you wanted to keep the stock internals and just run a 28rs or k04 hybrid, id say go for it. But take it from a guy who built up and tore down his motor 3 times before i had all of the parts in there. Hope that helps and good luck :thumbup:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

xpxhxoxexnxixxx said:


> I cant tell you which kit/turbo to go with because its merely opinion on here, but...
> 
> IMO- start buying everything- be it a full kit, fuel pump, lines, fittings, etc AND buy the rods/rings, HG, etc BEFORE you put it all on. Its not a question of running a bt kit on stock internals. Its the premise of having to do things 2 times instead of once the right way. A few points on this:
> 
> ...


My mindset to run a conservative setup and later down the road install rods is the simplicity of being able to afford the garage bill. I don't have the time and resources to do this sort of thing myself, mostly due to my career. I will be having somebody install everything for me. I've done all work regarding my car in the past however I no longer have the time or effort to do so. If they do internals and a BT setup all at once I can imagine that costing a bit more than what I can foot out at the moment. I guess it all depends if both steps require pulling the motor (or if the mechanic prefers to pull the motor.) Pulling the motor twice obviously wouldn't make much sense. Pulling the motor once to install everything in one shot would make much more sense.

I appreciate the advice. I do plan on piecing this together and having everything in hand before installation so I can lay everything out. It's not a matter of purchasing the parts themselves. I can manage to do that over time to keep my budget in line. A kit is most definitely not in my budget. Again it all comes down to how much it's going to cost me in labor when it comes to installation time. I'm not trying to botch a BT install. I want it done right but it has to make financial sense for myself to do so. In the end it will be done right, the way that I have it planned out would just take longer to do so while allowing me to not foot out a large sum of cash at one point in time. I'm not that guy that doesn't care about his credit score and blows $5k in between 2 credit cards while maxing them out.


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## a4e3y5 (Jan 21, 2009)

Pag Parts 50 trim kit. As a daily driver I made 332whp/308tq for almost two years. With the same kit I just made 398whp/341tq. Two years later, kit has not giving me any problem at all. Any specifics feel free to pm or ask. You won't regret this kit!


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

I was in your shoes about 1.5 years ago. I just had a baby and was tight on income. My best advice is do it right the first time. I tried doing this the "budget" way and I will never do that again.

Get quality parts, do not try and cut any corners, and have any current problems fixed before adding parts to the equation.

As far as a setup goes, Id look into getting a 50 trim. You can run this turbo without a built bottom end for the time being, just run 15-22psi, depending on what AR you run. Its an older design, but you can sustain 300-350 from it with rods. 

Lastly, plan to spend twice as much as you THINK you will need. I set my budget and am yet still going over it. Get advice from existing BT users and choose your path. BT is much more fun anyways:laugh::laugh:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

a4e3y5 said:


> Pag Parts 50 trim kit. As a daily driver I made 332whp/308tq for almost two years. With the same kit I just made 398whp/341tq. Two years later, kit has not giving me any problem at all. Any specifics feel free to pm or ask. You won't regret this kit!


So it sounds like you just installed rods?



Zneith said:


> I was in your shoes about 1.5 years ago. I just had a baby and was tight on income. My best advice is do it right the first time. I tried doing this the "budget" way and I will never do that again.
> 
> Get quality parts, do not try and cut any corners, and have any current problems fixed before adding parts to the equation.
> 
> ...


Thank you :thumbup:

I'm looking into the pag 50 trim kit. Great price but it's still going to be difficult for me to throw those kind of funds on the table all at once. :-/ Again acquiring those parts over time (not installing them just gathering them) would be much more reasonable for me.

EDIT: Would it make more sense for me to find a used kit?

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ig-turbo-kit-gt2871R-1500&highlight=turbo+kit

Something like that is much more budget-able.


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## liveschnell (Jul 1, 2006)

not exactly on topic but talk to brian at rivalconceptz... he does great work and will give you a fair price :thumbup:

less than 2 hours from you, he's currently building an r32 swap golf that will win just about every car show the scene has to offer :beer:


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## a4e3y5 (Jan 21, 2009)

Yeap...i just dropped rods. Ran it for almost 2 yrs withoit problems. Recently added rods and cranked the boost controller. If I were you, i would hold until i can get the whole kit and mount it....then u can get the minor things and lastly the rods. But minimum the kit. I would be depressed having the turbo at home n not being able to mount it he he. Take your time n do it rite the first time...also u would save some cash on shippin costs


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Put the money in a jar. When you have $5k post on here..

"I have $5000, help me spend it"

and we'll lead you down the right path.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

a4e3y5 said:


> Pag Parts 50 trim kit. As a daily driver I made 332whp/308tq for almost two years. With the same kit I just made 398whp/341tq. Two years later, kit has not giving me any problem at all. Any specifics feel free to pm or ask. You won't regret this kit!


:thumbup: 50 trim ftw



Zneith said:


> I was in your shoes about 1.5 years ago. I just had a baby and was tight on income. My best advice is do it right the first time. I tried doing this the "budget" way and I will never do that again.
> 
> Get quality parts, do not try and cut any corners, and have any current problems fixed before adding parts to the equation.
> 
> ...


yup :thumbup::beer:



a4e3y5 said:


> Yeap...i just dropped rods. Ran it for almost 2 yrs withoit problems. Recently added rods and cranked the boost controller. If I were you, i would hold until i can get the whole kit and mount it....then u can get the minor things and lastly the rods. But minimum the kit. I would be depressed having the turbo at home n not being able to mount it he he. Take your time n do it rite the first time...also u would save some cash on shippin costs


i've been stock blockin it with the 50 trim for a lil over 2 years :thumbup:


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

Zneith said:


> Lastly, plan to spend twice as much as you THINK you will need. I set my budget and am yet still going over it. :


x54651328 lol i pulled my motor to fix a broken wastegate flange and get a bearing replaced in my tranny. ended up selling my manifold, fmic, bov, etc... and buying bigger/better parts lol. 7 grand in the hole now. oh man:facepalm:

anything from pagparts, cts, ffe are all great kits. and when you buy a turbo buy ball bearinggggg


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Again, what are everybodies opinions on used kits? If I want to save money and the kit is complete I'm not seeing much of a difference. The turbo can always be rebuilt. All of the other parts are static so as long as the manifold isn't cracked etc etc it should be a great way to save a bit cash.


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

Both the turbo kits I ran were with used parts aside from the turbo and some odds and ends. Actually almost every go fast mod on my car was bought off someone parting their car or cars. The only thing new in my current PAG kit was his manifold and the fabbed stuff Arnold added to a used downpipe to reroute it.


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

If you buy used PAG stuff you can talk to Arnold about sending it in to him to make sure it's all dialed in and fits on whatever turbo you chose. That's something he did for me and I'm sure he'd continue doing for other clients.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

screwball said:


> If you buy used PAG stuff you can talk to Arnold about sending it in to him to make sure it's all dialed in and fits on whatever turbo you chose. That's something he did for me and I'm sure he'd continue doing for other clients.


This is an awesome option.

Sometimes used stuff has problems you never would have guessed.

You could do this yourself if you had Arnold's experience...but not many of us do. lol


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

groggory said:


> This is an awesome option.
> 
> Sometimes used stuff has problems you never would have guessed.
> 
> You could do this yourself if you had Arnold's experience...but not many of us do. lol




Go PAG. The topmount stuff to me seems like an easy way to bake your ECU to death and I don't know but my bottom mount setup has a fairly cool engine bay. The biggest deal is to insulate the intake pipe that runs across/over the manifold and near the wastegate. I covered mine in DEI cool tape, and after a hard run in 50-60 degree weather I can open the hood and rest my hand on it. The gate and manifold are radiating so much heat it hurts, but that pipe is cold.

Every package has it's plusses/minuses, however I can drop my 3076r in about 15 minutes and coolant lines etc. are easy to do and get to.

The downpipe is compact, and easy to wrap so your shift cables are cool. It's a really good balance.

Instead of piecing together, pile your money up!!! Don't let yourself spend it, self control.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

i bought my cts kit used :thumbup: lightly used quality parts > than ebay turbo's etc. It had around 5k on it when i bought it they said. I've put an additional 43-44k on it myself in the last 2 years.

*edit also i never had my turbo rebuilt. it was in great shape when i got it, so i just installed it as is


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

Bottom mount IC plumbing seems to be very compact also. I bought Yareka's old stuff and actually omitted some of the plumbing to fit right up to my RMR/PTE 600 setup.

With some Long 90*s this fit great on my car. I threw a tial flange on the hotside run and it fit right up.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

MKIII_96 said:


> x54651328 lol i pulled my motor to fix a broken wastegate flange and get a bearing replaced in my tranny. ended up selling my manifold, fmic, bov, etc... and buying bigger/better parts lol. 7 grand in the hole now. oh man:facepalm:
> 
> anything from pagparts, cts, ffe are all great kits. and when you buy a turbo buy ball bearinggggg


Boy do I know that feeling:thumbdown::what:

But hey, its at the shop now for a complete rebuild with a built bottom end, new head, exhaust valves, and a gt3071r. Should be fun when it comes back.:thumbup: 

Really dreading the break in period, but I've spent way too much to have problems lol.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Zneith said:


> Boy do I know that feeling:thumbdown::what:
> 
> But hey, its at the shop now for a complete rebuild with a built bottom end, new head, exhaust valves, and a gt3071r. Should be fun when it comes back.:thumbup:
> 
> Really dreading the break in period, but I've spent way too much to have problems lol.


:beer: i see you working lol


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## burkechrs1 (Dec 1, 2008)

My biggest advice I can give you is don't use your credit card on a bt kit unless you know its not gonna build interest. If money is hard to come by that's the last thing you want to do. Piece your kit together best you can and if in the end you find yourself missing a couple little things here and there go for it.

I pieced my kit together last month.

CTS turbo hooked me up with manifold and downpipe
Pagparts hooked me up with the turbo, lines and wastegate
034 had me with the gaskets and most of the hardware
And now I'm just waiting on fueling and tuning from eurodyne

Keep in mind it gets very expensive very fast. I set a budget and I'm already a grand over and haven't bought maestro yet.

Sent from my DROID2 using Tapatalk


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

burkechrs1 said:


> My biggest advice I can give you is don't use your credit card on a bt kit unless you know its not gonna build interest. If money is hard to come by that's the last thing you want to do.
> 
> Sent from my DROID2 using Tapatalk


this x100. don't use credit cards for anything if you dont have to :facepalm: my rule of thumb for car $hit is if i can't afford to buy it cash i don't need it.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Big_Tom said:


> this x100. don't use credit cards for anything if you dont have to :facepalm: my rule of thumb for car $hit is if i can't afford to buy it cash i don't need it.


This is how I have operated since I was 18. I spent 3 grand I did not have building a scirocco 16v, coilovers, bushings, and minor motor stuff like cams etc. I then lost my job and was unemployed for like a year.


Way to go, I'm smart. Now? I'll drive a bucket or let it sit until I have savings and a cushion. I'm also old with two kids and a stay at home wife.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Big_Tom said:


> this x100. don't use credit cards for anything if you dont have to :facepalm: my rule of thumb for car $hit is if i can't afford to buy it cash i don't need it.


This, 

hence why my car is getting fixed now instead of a few months ago.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Zneith said:


> This,
> 
> hence why my car is getting fixed now instead of a few months ago.


it will be a sick setup now :thumbup:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

buy the rods now, put them in. then start saving. then look for a pagparts 3071 kit.

that would be the intelligent thing to do. it's gettign really fukn old seeing people go hey, just do rods last, and the frequency of the "**** i should've done rods" or " i'm selling my BT car cos of rod knock/blown" threads is getting annoying.

do it right and spend less money. get the rods first, then go down the list. starting with clutch/pp, once again, making it easier as it can be installed prior to build.

rods
clutch/pp
manifold
turbo
oil lines
coolant lines
downpipe
wastegate(and dump tube)
BOV
front mount(or whatever)
piping
injectors
fuel pump
all odd's and ends(oil,filter,coolant,seals and gaskets)

then lastly, software.

this way you can do it in a way of stages. and once you have more $$ you can get a diff. but do us a favor, unless you have more money to have [email protected] tune your car..dont go maestro, cos if your broke and time limited, then it isnt for you to learn and deal with. go unitronic or united motorsport. no others.


:beer:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Vegeta Gti said:


> buy the rods now, put them in. then start saving. then look for a pagparts 3071 kit.
> 
> that would be the intelligent thing to do. it's gettign really fukn old seeing people go hey, just do rods last, and the frequency of the "**** i should've done rods" or " i'm selling my BT car cos of rod knock/blown" threads is getting annoying.
> 
> ...


This is the way I was previously planning but again I'm not sure how long the k03s and manifold are going to hold up. How much to have rods installed as a guestimate in labor.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

they will last fine if you relax and let it go. the k03s rarely jsut comes apart and obliterates things. if you can keep it smooth and not beat it it will last.


not sure on labor, as i do it all myself and my prices for installing rods is too low. so i couldnt tell you, but the k03 and manifold can be pulled of a junkyard car for less than a 100. and you'll get practice.

trust me young pedi-won


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## Fast929 (Nov 13, 2004)

Do it right, do it once...... :thumbup:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

in fact, look up kohl's german


seb, the owner, pulls parts, he is an old friend. tell him someone random dude from homegrown sent you in his direction...here is his # 717-866-5562. he will hook you up.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Vegeta Gti said:


> they will last fine if you relax and let it go. the k03s rarely jsut comes apart and obliterates things. if you can keep it smooth and not beat it it will last.
> 
> 
> not sure on labor, as i do it all myself and my prices for installing rods is too low. so i couldnt tell you, but the k03 and manifold can be pulled of a junkyard car for less than a 100. and you'll get practice.
> ...


I just rebuilt the k03 so it should be good to go for a bit. Just worried about the cracked exhaust housing and sick of the leaky cracked turbo flange on the manifold. How many hours do you think you can change out rods in? Do you pull the motor?


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

pull head,pull pan, motor in car. 6-7 hours to do it all in car start to finish...if i am feeling frisky. i have no need to rush, but i rarely get to do that anymore. in the last four years i've only done two blocks, not my own might i add.

it's quite simple. gather the tools and do it yourself, there is a good write up in here somewhere.

give seb a call for a manifold man!!


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Just got a great deal for an FX400 clutch with flywheel. Looks like the venture begins.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Vegeta Gti said:


> buy the rods now, put them in. then start saving. then look for a pagparts 3071 kit.
> 
> that would be the intelligent thing to do. it's gettign really fukn old seeing people go hey, just do rods last, and the frequency of the "**** i should've done rods" or " i'm selling my BT car cos of rod knock/blown" threads is getting annoying.
> 
> ...



This. By the time you figure out ME7 and go through it, you could have installed standalone and tuned the car yourself with a cable throttle. Either let someone else handle it and get it close enough, or have Arnold tune it.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

gdoggmoney said:


> This. By the time you figure out ME7 and go through it, you could have installed standalone and tuned the car yourself with a cable throttle. Either let someone else handle it and get it close enough, or have Arnold tune it.


Unitronic is most definitely what would be going in my car at the final stages.


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

Vegeta Gti said:


> pull head,pull pan, motor in car. 6-7 hours to do it all in car start to finish...if i am feeling frisky. i have no need to rush, but i rarely get to do that anymore. in the last four years i've only done two blocks, not my own might i add.
> 
> it's quite simple. gather the tools and do it yourself, there is a good write up in here somewhere.
> 
> give seb a call for a manifold man!!


while the heads off probably be wise to put some head studs on and maybe new exhaust valves


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

arp headbolts are fine, mine have been out and in three times over four years of well over 400whp.

and i had a stock awp for 2.5 of that. stainless valves if you do. no need for iconel, think about it.its a street car, if something goes wrong its better to bend than break. inconel snap and take more with it, like pistons and turbo.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Vegeta Gti said:


> arp headbolts are fine, mine have been out and in three times over four years of well over 400whp.
> 
> and i had a stock awp for 2.5 of that. stainless valves if you do. no need for iconel, think about it.its a street car, if something goes wrong its better to bend than break. inconel snap and take more with it, like pistons and turbo.
> 
> Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk


good info on the stainless vs inconel :beer:


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Vegeta Gti said:


> arp headbolts are fine, mine have been out and in three times over four years of well over 400whp.
> 
> and i had a stock awp for 2.5 of that. stainless valves if you do. no need for iconel, think about it.its a street car, if something goes wrong its better to bend than break. inconel snap and take more with it, like pistons and turbo.
> 
> Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk


I like your logic, and wish I had gone this route. Either way, the Audi will go cross country with inconel valves and a 5857.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Is there any justice in replacing valves? I wasn't planning on touching the top end at least no time soon. As for head bolts where can I order a set.

PS. The FX400 and flywheel are ordered. Rods will be purchased soon as well.

EDIT: Found them and at a fairly decent price as the installation tool comes with
http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/...t_for_2000-up_1.8T_With_Tool&products_id=3091


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

you dont need to change the exhaust valves until you go over 400whp iirc


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> you dont need to change the exhaust valves until you go over 400whp iirc


Sort of thought so. My goals right now are only in the 350 range so it's not something thats top priority however I'm only looking at an extra $160 or so for 8 exhaust valves right? If thats the case how much extra labor to have them installed while the head is off for the rods.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

travis_gli said:


> Sort of thought so. My goals right now are only in the 350 range so it's not something thats top priority however I'm only looking at an extra $160 or so for 8 exhaust valves right? If thats the case how much extra labor to have them installed while the head is off for the rods.


Cutting 8 stainless or inconel valves, and you will do exhaust valve guides, they wear bad on 1.8T cars for some reason. It can cost a bit dependin on your machine shop, and then the tip height needs to be set on the valves, aka grind down the top to be in tolerance.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

gdoggmoney said:


> Cutting 8 stainless or inconel valves, and you will do exhaust valve guides, they wear bad on 1.8T cars for some reason. It can cost a bit dependin on your machine shop, and then the tip height needs to be set on the valves, aka grind down the top to be in tolerance.


It's all something that I need to discuss with my mechanic I guess which I haven't even found yet. I have a guy in mind just not sure if they even do high performance applications.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

travis_gli said:


> It's all something that I need to discuss with my mechanic I guess which I haven't even found yet. I have a guy in mind just not sure if they even do high performance applications.



I just had exhaust valves installed. I'd recommend getting them done, especially if your doing head work anyway. I heard they were genuinely weak stock.opcorn:

Also if you do them, I'd suggest stainless.


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## iTech (Dec 29, 2008)

I'll just leave this here...can't beat the quality of Arnolds workmanship @ PAG. We refuse to use any other kits on cars we build. I know every time we get one it will be a perfect fit and top quality components.

Here's a pic of a 180 TT quattro set up we're doing now.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

iTech said:


> I'll just leave this here...can't beat the quality of Arnolds workmanship @ PAG. We refuse to use any other kits on cars we build. I know every time we get one it will be a perfect fit and top quality components.
> 
> Here's a pic of a 180 TT quattro set up we're doing now.


Excuse me while I go change pants. :laugh:

Btw do you have a couple of pictures of this in the car. I just want to see pipe routing etc of things.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

iTech said:


> I'll just leave this here...can't beat the quality of Arnolds workmanship @ PAG. We refuse to use any other kits on cars we build. I know every time we get one it will be a perfect fit and top quality components.
> 
> Here's a pic of a 180 TT quattro set up we're doing now.


I would take that lightweight crank pulley off and replace with a fluidampr


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

agreed, those pulleys are useless


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## iTech (Dec 29, 2008)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> I would take that lightweight crank pulley off and replace with a fluidampr


Yup I completely agree with you there...unfortunately the customer is always right and he likes the pretty red ones....LOL I am probably going to swap it for a stock one and toss it in the trunk. This was a budget build and I think after labor he's pretty much done for financially for a while. :laugh:

Especially after he found out the engine block was complete junk .....the previous shop that had the car thought they could put his 1000cc injectors in it and run the car with a stock turbo and a stock tune:screwy::screwy: They actually told the kid he'd be fine to drive it like that for a while till he got his turbo on:banghead::banghead: I wish I would have taken pics of the pistons when we pulled them out....looked like some sort of weird modern art project. This car was a complete mess.

Will post up pics when we get it in the car new week.


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## iBeast (May 31, 2007)

I have a FFE Mimi me kit and I made 360whp and 310 t
Wtorq with 50 trim and everything was hang made to the best quality 

Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

iTech said:


> Yup I completely agree with you there...unfortunately the customer is always right and he likes the pretty red ones....LOL I am probably going to swap it for a stock one and toss it in the trunk. This was a budget build and I think after labor he's pretty much done for financially for a while. :laugh:
> 
> Especially after he found out the engine block was complete junk .....the previous shop that had the car thought they could put his 1000cc injectors in it and run the car with a stock turbo and a stock tune:screwy::screwy: They actually told the kid he'd be fine to drive it like that for a while till he got his turbo on:banghead::banghead: I wish I would have taken pics of the pistons when we pulled them out....looked like some sort of weird modern art project. This car was a complete mess.
> 
> Will post up pics when we get it in the car new week.




Rochester 1000cc injectors at the lowest pulsewidth possible before they dribble, still will run a low 11afr on our 1.8l motors.........

Opening one up that is a "good runner and healthy" also looks like a modern art carbon mess.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

gdoggmoney said:


> Rochester 1000cc injectors at the lowest pulsewidth possible before they dribble, still will run a low 11afr on our 1.8l motors.........
> 
> Opening one up that is a "good runner and healthy" also looks like a modern art carbon mess.


This is funny because one of my coworkers buddies purchased a Mazda speed last year and they kept finding all these problems with it. It was running quite terrible and they couldn't figure out why until they pulled the 1000cc injectors out that were placed into a completely stock motor with no tune. :laugh:

I think these guys think along the lines of... more fuel must equal more power. :facepalm:


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

travis_gli said:


> This is funny because one of my coworkers buddies purchased a Mazda speed last year and they kept finding all these problems with it. It was running quite terrible and they couldn't figure out why until they pulled the 1000cc injectors out that were placed into a completely stock motor with no tune. :laugh:
> 
> I think these guys think along the lines of... more fuel must equal more power. :facepalm:


Yep...... People don't get it. They are not carb jets, you can't just swap them out.

You have a static pulsewidth range, and then you have an injector that flows X all out. So your flow is going to be different at any given pulsewidth not taking into account injector characteristics, solely accounting for flow.


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## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

If you are anything like me, a 50 trim wont cut it. I got bored of a 3071r in 6 months and only drove it 5k miles. But do it right the first time, when you cut corners **** breaks and when it breaks your car is down, and that is just unnacceptable.:thumbup:


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

iTech said:


>


What nuts are you using that hold the exhaust mani to head???? Are they better than the stock ones


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## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

Copper coated steal nuts^


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Mindfault said:


> Copper coated steal nuts^


Do you know if there is a benefit to them vs the stock ones???


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

One-Eight GTI said:


> Do you know if there is a benefit to them vs the stock ones???


Stock ones are copper coated steel nuts. If you want good manifold nuts let me find my receipt and point you in the right direction. They were 10mm stainless I believe. Give me a minute to find it.

Here you go...
http://www.coastfab.com/php/proddetail.php?prod=0947&cat=69

A little pricey but most definitely worth it. Much easier to install, tighten or remove when the motor is in the car. Also much less prone to stripping the heads off. You should also note when ordering that you want stainless I believe.


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## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

Yeah. 034 has 12mm copper coated steel nuts with their stud kit


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## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

^ those look promising. But with a manifold on the head in car it'll be a bitch either way haha


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Mindfault said:


> ^ those look promising. But with a manifold on the head in car it'll be a bitch either way haha


Honestly with the 10mm size its a cake walk. The stock ones are 13mm I believe. Took me over an hour to get the stock ones off (they were used to put on my kinetics manifold.)


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Nice, thanks for the info:thumbup: Had the factory nuts on for two years and all but a few were still tight (no exhaust leaks)... There a pain to tighten on those manifolds though, heated and bent a few wrenches so that I could get to the nuts


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

One-Eight GTI said:


> Nice, thanks for the info:thumbup: Had the factory nuts on for two years and all but a few were still tight (no exhaust leaks)... There a pain to tighten on those manifolds though, heated and bent a few wrenches so that I could get to the nuts


Also if you happen to round off a stock one or you need a bit of wobble room for the new 10mm ones this is what you need.
http://www.amazon.com/Grip-Tite-Super-Socket-Rounded-Removers/dp/B000YABVMC

All from experience


----------



## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

half of mine are the 10mm jet nuts and the other half are those copper 13mm badboys. the smaller jetnut guys are easier on the ATP style mani's. Arnold's mani is much easier to put in.


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

screwball said:


> half of mine are the 10mm jet nuts and the other half are those copper 13mm badboys. the smaller jetnut guys are easier on the ATP style mani's. Arnold's mani is much easier to put in.


I used jet nuts and nordlocs up top at the tight spots between 1-2 2-3 3-4, so that they can come off easy. The rest are copper nuts like you did and lockwashers, which have done fine. 


Just go over all the nuts and keep torquing until they are all the same. That's on a pag bottom mount manifold, which is still easier than an ATP, but still requires some jet nuts for overall sanity and a 20 minute install/torque, vs hours.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

gdoggmoney said:


> I used jet nuts and nordlocs up top at the tight spots between 1-2 2-3 3-4, so that they can come off easy. The rest are copper nuts like you did and lockwashers, which have done fine.
> 
> 
> Just go over all the nuts and keep torquing until they are all the same. That's on a pag bottom mount manifold, which is still easier than an ATP, but still requires some jet nuts for overall sanity and a 20 minute install/torque, vs hours.


Install Pag mani with the head off the car. 20 min. Done.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Install Pag mani with the head off the car. 20 min. Done.


Got mine on in 20 with the head on the car  That is what I mean


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

gdoggmoney said:


> Got mine on in 20 with the head on the car  That is what I mean


I can easily swap out manifolds now in very little time with those 10mm nuts w/ the head on the car. I wouldn't go through all that extra work of removing the head for no reason. If I was running BT that would be a different story possibly.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

What's going on here...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GARRETT-T3-...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4162e8e0b5


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> What's going on here...
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/GARRETT-T3-...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4162e8e0b5


thats my turbo! :beer: buy that thing thats a steal if ur looking for 50


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> thats my turbo! :beer: buy that thing thats a steal if ur looking for 50


As in your selling it or you have the same one on your car... I'm in the market for a 50 trim :thumbup:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> As in your selling it or you have the same one on your car... I'm in the market for a 50 trim :thumbup:


my bad, I am not the seller :facepalm: i meant it's the turbo i'm running. join the 50 trim club :beer:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> my bad, I am not the seller :facepalm: i meant it's the turbo i'm running. join the 50 trim club :beer:


I'm working on it  My question is can I go with say this turbo and order a kit from cts or pag without a turbo.... I'm just saying because if I can save that kind of money I sure as hell will take the leap.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

travis_gli said:


> I'm working on it  My question is can I go with say this turbo and order a kit from cts or pag without a turbo.... I'm just saying because if I can save that kind of money I sure as hell will take the leap.


They'll sell without the turbo. Before you buy the turbo though, check with them and ensure that all the flanges and whatnot are the same as they use for their kits.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

travis_gli said:


> I'm working on it  My question is can I go with say this turbo and order a kit from cts or pag without a turbo.... I'm just saying because if I can save that kind of money I sure as hell will take the leap.


Sure. Then you have to ship the turbo to arnold or CTS and have them fab the DP an dump/recirc around it all... adds time factor in shipping, etc. You may break even by that time.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

gdoggmoney said:


> Sure. Then you have to ship the turbo to arnold or CTS and have them fab the DP an dump/recirc around it all... adds time factor in shipping, etc. You may break even by that time.


Pretty sure its the exact turbo that Clay uses in his kit.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

travis_gli said:


> Pretty sure its the exact turbo that Clay uses in his kit.




How will he fab your downpipe, unless he has one or two hanging around? 

These guys may seem "big" but usually due to the overhead involved in having 10 2500$ turbo kits hanging around, they are ordered parts wise first once you pay, then built on a jig. 

Pag uses custom crazy angle good flowing mandrel bends, and I tell you this as I am on my fourth BT car/kit, you will need to send the turbo up likely so that it all can be done.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

gdoggmoney said:


> How will he fab your downpipe, unless he has one or two hanging around?
> 
> These guys may seem "big" but usually due to the overhead involved in having 10 2500$ turbo kits hanging around, they are ordered parts wise first once you pay, then built on a jig.
> 
> Pag uses custom crazy angle good flowing mandrel bends, and I tell you this as I am on my fourth BT car/kit, you will need to send the turbo up likely so that it all can be done.


Honestly if that is the case, which I wouldn't see why he wouldn't already have downpipes fabricated (it uses the same 4 bolt flange as the others), I could always ship him up the turbo for $15 flat rate. After saving around $200-300 on a turbo $15 isn't so much. :thumbup: Makes sense to me.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> I'm working on it  My question is can I go with say this turbo and order a kit from cts or pag without a turbo.... I'm just saying because if I can save that kind of money I sure as hell will take the leap.


yes u can. the t31 4 bolt is the most popular housing for this. looks like that turbo has the t31 2.5" 4 bolt so you should be good in that dept. i have the same hotside so it def works w/ the cts setup


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> yes u can. the t31 4 bolt is the most popular housing for this. looks like that turbo has the t31 2.5" 4 bolt so you should be good in that dept. i have the same hotside so it def works w/ the cts setup


I thought so, I'm actually discussing it with Clay at the moment. I sent him the pictures... had to admit it was on Ebay though. :facepalm:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

im almost 100% positive you wont have to send the turbo in for them to make you a kit. i'm sure they have a turbo w/ this hotside around or just this hotside. it's not even a big deal


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> im almost 100% positive you wont have to send the turbo in for them to make you a kit. i'm sure they have a turbo w/ this hotside around or just this hotside. it's not even a big deal


Just from the bit of research I've done, comparing pictures of Clay's kits and pondering about it while blotting the grapefruit juice out of my living room carpet I'm as sure as you are that this turbo will pretty much bolt right up. :thumbup:


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## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

Forget the 50 trim club. 6262 club is where its at!!!!!!:laugh::laugh::wave:


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## iBeast (May 31, 2007)

My engine bay with FFE mini me kit












Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

travis_gli said:


> Honestly if that is the case, which I wouldn't see why he wouldn't already have downpipes fabricated (it uses the same 4 bolt flange as the others), I could always ship him up the turbo for $15 flat rate. After saving around $200-300 on a turbo $15 isn't so much. :thumbup: Makes sense to me.


I hear you. Saving money is good. Talk to vendors, do the math.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

No go on that turbo. For $405 + shipping (which is what it sold for) I would rather have a turbo provided by Clay with the kit. :thumbup:


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

iBeast said:


> My engine bay with FFE mini me kit
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The stuff he makes is amazing


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## jonpwn (Aug 13, 2010)

Just curious what can be done at home with the engine in car assuming I have all the needed tools (minus the engine jack)? To be honest i've never done engine work but I'd really like to learn and have the pride of doing my own work, and save money on labor. Of course there are plenty of guides online and i'll buy a Bentley book if needed.

rods look like they can be done at home, clutch/pressure plate, you guys are tlaking about taking off the manifold in 10 minutes so i'm guessing that can be done at home to.. i would think a bottom mount turbo is harder to work on with the engine in the car? 

I'd be installing parts separately like vegeta gti suggested and work my way up to the turbo itself. I did the timing belt with my dad who was a car mechanic for 10 years so i definitely have an extra hand and knowledge on engines.


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

this can all be done with the engine in the car. the most you would have to do is take the head off to put the rods in. changing a clutch with the engine in the car can be done also, but it would be easier to take it out or dropping the tranny with the engine in the car.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> No go on that turbo. For $405 + shipping (which is what it sold for) I would rather have a turbo provided by Clay with the kit. :thumbup:


that would have been like $430 bux total, still a hella good deal for a brand new garrett 50. i wonder how much CTS sells that turbo for? lemme look, http://www.ctsturbo.com/cart/products/Garrett_T3_T4E_50trim-26-13.html

you still could have saved $200, that could be your fuel injectors right there


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> that would have been like $430 bux total, still a hella good deal for a brand new garrett 50. i wonder how much CTS sells that turbo for? lemme look, http://www.ctsturbo.com/cart/products/Garrett_T3_T4E_50trim-26-13.html
> 
> you still could have saved $200, that could be your fuel injectors right there


I should've went higher but I always bid at the last few seconds so I would have never had a chance to enter a higher amount (time ran out.) 

I'll keep my eye out for others.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ i was gonna bid on it last minute too lol, i forgot about it and went to sleep :facepalm:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> ^^^ i was gonna bid on it last minute too lol, i forgot about it and went to sleep :facepalm:


I was watching the new episode of sons of guns and almost forgot about it.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

You can get a brand new PTE 50 trim for like 500$ MSRPish. I think the 360 option is standard or another 50$?

Options.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

gdoggmoney said:


> You can get a brand new PTE 50 trim for like 500$ MSRPish. I think the 360 option is standard or another 50$?
> 
> Options.


PTE's start around $600 and go up from there... usually unless you can find a really good deal somewhere.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

PTE turbo's suck ass as far as reliability goes. they are on par with ebay/china turbos when it comes to quality. I'll prob never buy a PTE turbo :facepalm:


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Big_Tom said:


> PTE turbo's suck ass as far as reliability goes. they are on par with ebay/china turbos when it comes to quality. I'll prob never buy a PTE turbo :facepalm:


I couldnt agree more. PTE can hype their power numbers till the cows come home, but when it comes to reliability stick with Garrett or BorgWarner :thumbup:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> I couldnt agree more. PTE can hype their power numbers till the cows come home, but when it comes to reliability stick with Garrett or BorgWarner :thumbup:


My buddy rebuilds turbos for a living and he couldn't agree more. Most Precisions are heavily overpriced.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Hmmm brand new IE rods for $329 shipped.... yes please!


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> I couldnt agree more. PTE can hype their power numbers till the cows come home, but when it comes to reliability stick with Garrett or BorgWarner :thumbup:


hype is all it is. hypenitis runs rampant around here :facepalm:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> hype is all it is. hypenitis runs rampant around here :facepalm:


It's like the PA guys up here talking about their racelands. :laugh:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

travis_gli said:


> Hmmm brand new IE rods for $329 shipped.... yes please!


good man.

garrett or bw ftw

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> It's like the PA guys up here talking about their racelands. :laugh:


:laugh: :thumbup:


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## tirerub (Apr 29, 2010)

Big_Tom said:


> PTE turbo's suck ass as far as reliability goes. they are on par with ebay/china turbos when it comes to quality. I'll prob never buy a PTE turbo :facepalm:


X2 my pte sucked ass smoked at idle after only 1500k
now ill be ordering a pag billet 3071


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

tirerub said:


> X2 my pte sucked ass smoked at idle after only 1500k
> now ill be ordering a pag billet 3071


I guess we will see how long my 5857 on the Audi lasts.


On this same subject 4 years maybe 5 now I bought my ATP kit from a user on here who went through two 3071R turbos in 2000 miles. He gave up.


Know what the issue was? The downpipe physically contacted the compressor housing, and heated it up enough to cause it to blow up. He went through two turbos that way, sold a kit for 1/4 of the cost he originally paid not knowing why they went.


Food for thought. Never know what people do.


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## iTech (Dec 29, 2008)

One-Eight GTI said:


> What nuts are you using that hold the exhaust mani to head???? Are they better than the stock ones


They are actually oem copper lock nuts from the dealer....

N-902-002-01

OEM Part number


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Silly question but I'm looking at precision and TRE intercoolers and they don't look like they have any sort of mounting brackets welded on. Can I request that or do I have to have somebody weld me on some.


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

You need to fab mounts yourself. Nothing too hard w/ a chop saw and a welder. PTE350 and PTE600 fit fine under my bumper cover. I cut/ground out my tow hitch and anything else in the way though, fits well right in the lower bumper opening on my setup. outlets end up right in the side vents pretty much centered when I was top mount, now I can prolly get the covers back on if I wanted w/ a PAG bottom mount setup.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

> PTE turbo's suck ass as far as reliability goes. they are on par with ebay/china turbos when it comes to quality. I'll prob never buy a PTE turbo :facepalm:


Mine is fine after a year and a half. Explain that one. 



formerly silveratljetta said:


> I couldnt agree more. PTE can hype their power numbers till the cows come home, but when it comes to reliability stick with Garrett or BorgWarner :thumbup:


Theres no hype. Thats why all the big boys down here run them. 

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

schwartzmagic said:


> Mine is fine after a year and a half. Explain that one.


You got lucky, for now. opcorn:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

all the big boys i know over the last 20 years....run garrett or borg warner

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

schwartzmagic said:


> Mine is fine after a year and a half. Explain that one.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



No offense man but this isn't a turbo comparison / preference thread. Take it somewhere else, I will be going with a Garrett and no other.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> No offense man but this isn't a turbo comparison / preference thread. Take it somewhere else, I will be going with a Garrett and no other.


:laugh::thumbup:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Still awaiting the FX400 arrival. Once it gets here I'll be almost immediately having it installed. Unfortunately the IE rods weren't in stock at another vendor so I have to wait up to 2 weeks for those.

Also should I go with a 3" or 2.5" catback... I already have a techtonics tuning 2.5" downpipe.


EDIT: I guess 3" catback would make sense that way I can always upgrade to a 3" downpipe in the future.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

don't do 2.5" exhaust on your big turbo. you'll surely be robbing yourself of significant power 3" all the way


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> don't do 2.5" exhaust on your big turbo. you'll surely be robbing yourself of significant power 3" all the way


Alright I'll have to order the turbo back 3" from 42DD then. Also does $475 sound a bit steep for a clutch install?


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

travis_gli said:


> Alright I'll have to order the turbo back 3" from 42DD then. Also does $475 sound a bit steep for a clutch install?


It does when you could do it yourself


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

seth_3515 said:


> It does when you could do it yourself


I don't have the time or resources for that or trust me I would. If this was years ago while I was still in college or highschool then sure but not anymore.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Alright I'll have to order the turbo back 3" from 42DD then. Also does $475 sound a bit steep for a clutch install?


i really don't know, but I paid $300 for my install. i don't know how many hours it takes or the specifics involved w/ the job


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

42DD 3" turbo back on its way  No more deafening drives with my 2.5" leaky straight pipe :laugh:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> 42DD 3" turbo back on its way  No more deafening drives with my 2.5" straight pipe :laugh:


Blowin Money Fast :laugh::thumbup:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> Blowin Money Fast :laugh::thumbup:


Yeh well, tired of neglecting her.  Also found out I'll probably be driving her down to Orlando in October for vacation so that exhaust will come in handy for the long drive.

Also just noticed you're from Orlando. I'll have to look you up while we're down there.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Yeh well, tired of neglecting her.  Also found out I'll probably be driving her down to Orlando in October for vacation so that exhaust will come in handy for the long drive.
> 
> Also just noticed you're from Orlando. I'll have to look you up while we're down there.


kool, I'll be around :beer:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Where can I get the stock exhaust hangers. Not just the rubber grommets but everything. I removed them when we fabricated my 2.5" and used some heavy duty hangers I know the 42DD exhaust won't line up with them. I'm going to need to replace the stock ones and I definitely didn't hang on to them. :banghead:


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

travis_gli said:


> Where can I get the stock exhaust hangers. Not just the rubber grommets but everything. I removed them when we fabricated my 2.5" and used some heavy duty hangers I know the 42DD exhaust won't line up with them. I'm going to need to replace the stock ones and I definitely didn't hang on to them. :banghead:


I get this kind of stuff from parts4vws.com. Nice people, good prices, support small business.

Or you can ask the guys over at 42dd and you can get the parts through them.


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## a4e3y5 (Jan 21, 2009)

Mine lined up almost perfectly. I just had to heat them up a lil to bend them...


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

germanautoparts.com FTW again. I got all 4 hangers for around $30. :thumbup: I almost forgot about those guys.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Big_Tom said:


> don't do 2.5" exhaust on your big turbo. you'll surely be robbing yourself of significant power 3" all the way


not true at all, i run a 2.5" from my rear seats back, 3" DP till then from the turbo...and i make sick power and have zero back pressure... it's all about design. the one thing 3" has over 3.5 for sure..is volume.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Vegeta Gti said:


> not true at all, i run a 2.5" from my rear seats back, 3" DP till then from the turbo...and i make sick power and have zero back pressure... it's all about design. the one thing 3" has over 3.5 for sure..is volume.


The 3" piping upgrade from 42DD wasn't a whole lot more so I just went with it. I think it was +$30 or something. If it would've been costly I would have went with 2.5"


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Just got a text message letting me know my clutch arrived on the doorstep. :thumbup:

Scheduled to go in Monday. $250 - $300 at my preferred garage (S&P Automotive) not including any diagnostics for the the rough shifts I was having (most likely caused by the old clutch). :thumbup:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Vegeta Gti said:


> not true at all, i run a 2.5" from my rear seats back, 3" DP till then from the turbo...and i make sick power and have zero back pressure... it's all about design. the one thing 3" has over 3.5 for sure..is volume.


:thumbup: it is ok to switch to a 2.5" inlet muffler or axle back from your 3" downpipe. having a FULL 2.5" exhaust on a BT would be power robbing


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

I was wondering if 350 - 400 was a reasonable goal but with my parts list I should probably be considering 300 - 350.


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

travis_gli said:


> I was wondering if 350 - 400 was a reasonable goal but with my parts list I should probably be considering 300 - 350.


Nothing a few pounds of boost cant solve


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

350whp is plenty for a really fun reliable daily anyways


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

MKIII_96 said:


> 350whp is plenty for a really fun reliable daily anyways


this :thumbup: i have 330whp @ 22 psi daily and it's pretty insane. when i bump boost to 24-25 psi for 350+ it's almost too much at times :laugh:


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## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> germanautoparts.com FTW again. I got all 4 hangers for around $30. :thumbup: I almost forgot about those guys.


Great company! Really fast shipping. I used to order all of my parts from them when I had my mk3...literally just ordered a new combi valve/gaskets for the mk4 (way cheaper than ECS ) five minutes ago haha.

Sorry...a bit off topic...continue :beer:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ i might have to check them out. sometimes shipping is crazy w/ ECS


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

^^ just paid $30 for guaranteed 2 day delivery on a $20 head tool  didnt have much choice though. Need to pull the head by this weekend..


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ also, supposedly ECS has some type of rewards program. I've spent about $1500 bux there and have yet to get any "rewards" "points" etc. :sly:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Eff that! wheres my points as well!! I ordered a $10 inline fuel pressure gauge adapter and got a free hat in the mail today from Jegs


----------



## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

Travis, what are you looking to spend? My PAG kit may be up for sale soon if my transmission goes on me which seems to be the way this car is going..


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

screwball said:


> Travis, what are you looking to spend? My PAG kit may be up for sale soon if my transmission goes on me which seems to be the way this car is going..


If you want something reasonable for it I would definitely be interested.

Btw has anybody heard of these guys? 

http://pwrhaus.com/pwrhausic.htm

black forest industries just started selling their products and thats one hell of a price for a nice front mount (if in fact it is "nice") I'd like to see the density of the core and what kind of piping they are using. I'd also like to know the dimensions, etc etc.

Here's a link to BFI
http://store.blackforestindustries.com/pwmk41frmoin.html

Both of which don't give much specs on it.


----------



## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

It's an up-charged eBay kit. Save a $100+ and get an eBay kit with a large core if money is an issue. You can always get a better core later on if you feel you need it. You may also be able to pick up a good used kit in the classifieds


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

cincyTT said:


> It's an up-charged eBay kit. Save a $100+ and get an eBay kit with a large core if money is an issue. You can always get a better core later on if you feel you need it. You may also be able to pick up a good used kit in the classifieds


Or possibly go with a Eurosport kit?
http://www.eurosportacc.com/intercooler_kits_vw_18T_20T.htm

Would the smaller piping be an issue? I think it would just mean faster charging.


----------



## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

smaller piping is fine for a street car. big piping would be better for a turbo thats realy pumping out the cfm's and high boost, like a racecar.

for 99% of the people in this forum 2"-2.5" piping is just fine.


----------



## a4e3y5 (Jan 21, 2009)

travis_gli said:


> Or possibly go with a Eurosport kit?


This is the kit I ran on my car for the past 3yrs. I made 366whp and the car had a serious misfire issue. Temperatures were fine...so if you plan on staying below 350hp, it is an option. Piping is 2" and goes underneath the car...if you go the pag parts wasy you're good to go. If u go top mount it won't work.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis, cop some piping of ebay. they have a 2" hotside and 2.5" cold side. there are a few piping options that will work. just grab a nice decent IC core. i have their 28x8x3.5 core and it's awesome. If you can afford a PAG 550 kit, that would be dope too

this piping kit has a HKS BOV flange on the hotside instead of a DV bung

http://www.ebay.com/itm/98-99-00-01...pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

this one is kinda new. looks decent tho

http://www.ebay.com/itm/99-05-Volks...pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

this one is the normal greddy style piping w/ the dv bung. i have this same piping kit, but i modded the 1st and 2nd pipes for the top mount 50 trim when i went BT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-1-8L-Gol...pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

MKIII_96 said:


> smaller piping is fine for a street car. big piping would be better for a turbo thats realy pumping out the cfm's and high boost, like a racecar.
> 
> for 99% of the people in this forum 2"-2.5" piping is just fine.


I like the idea of 2.5" hot and 2" or 2.25" for the cold side, it helps throttle response and works to negate core pressure/flow losses :thumbup:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

I want these but the price doesn't give them justice.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GOLF-BORA-J...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a60437a14

Who makes top mount piping kits?


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> I want these but the price doesn't give them justice.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/GOLF-BORA-J...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a60437a14
> 
> Who makes top mount piping kits?


^^ those pipes are gangster. I've seen them before, i posted them in another thread. i would have got them if i saw that back i nthe day when i bought mine :beer:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> ^^ those pipes are gangster. I've seen them before, i posted them in another thread. i would have got them if i saw that back i nthe day when i bought mine :beer:


I'll probably order a set however I don't see a map sensor flange on them. I hate to ruin that nice paint job :-/

Also I guess this would be my first build pic... it goes in Monday. :thumbup:


----------



## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Looks like mine except cleaner:laugh: Damn good clutch:thumbup:


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

So once I get this beast in I'm guessing it's 500 miles of being careful to not slip it too much (if thats even possible,) no WOT and no launches.


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ just try not to do any hard launches and aggressive shifting. WOT is fine, just be smooth on the launches and shifting :thumbup:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> ^^^ just try not to do any hard launches and aggressive shifting. WOT is fine, just be smooth on the launches and shifting :thumbup:


I never really drive like a dbag anyway, gas is to precious. :laugh: (says the guy going BT)


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> I never really drive like a dbag anyway, gas is to precious. :laugh: (says the guy going BT)


:laugh: i still get 28-30mpg :beer:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Really? I wasn't expecting that.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Really? I wasn't expecting that.


yeah dude. as long as ur tune isn't running rich it doesn't really hurt your gas mileage. heavy boosting does tho, but still it isnt that bad :beer:


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

I get 25-30 mph too.


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

30mpg here too. Just drive normal


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

23-29..that's flogging and normal driving....with meth and 25+psi...daily


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

I'm surprised. I guess I shouldn't be. BT can be fairly efficient. Also a heads up, I may have a complete used CTS kit on the way shortly. :thumbup:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

screwball said:


> I get 25-30 mph too.





MKIII_96 said:


> 30mpg here too. Just drive normal





Vegeta Gti said:


> 23-29..that's flogging and normal driving....with meth and 25+psi...daily





travis_gli said:


> I'm surprised. I guess I shouldn't be. BT can be fairly efficient. Also a heads up, I may have a complete used CTS kit on the way shortly. :thumbup:


:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::beer::beer::beer::beer:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Will probably have that CTS kit by the end of the weekend. :thumbup:


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Will probably have that CTS kit by the end of the weekend. :thumbup:


:beer:


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Improvised beer pong


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

that won't last with drunk people

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk


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## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

got the kit removed in a hr and a half. Awaiting your pickup. Your gonna love it. :beer::thumbup:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ :beer:


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

yeahhhh turbo kiiitttttt. clean her up all nice


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

I have the worst of luck, I've had rear rotors to throw on the GLI for 2 years now and never had to put them on. Finally this week I heard metal on metal in the rear and figured it was time. After taking the rotors out of the packaging I noticed they were Jetta rotors not GLI. So with that said I figured I would just replace the pads. Well I pulled the caliper and a freken slide bolt is rusted slolid in the carrier. I tried PB blaster and a torch but nothing. Had to buy a freken $150 new carrier. What a POS. 

Regardless even though the car isn't exactly driveable at the moment I'm going to limp it to S&P and have them install the clutch since I don't want to be an @ss and pull my Monday morning appointment at the last minute. At least something will get done to the car while I'm waiting for the carrier to arrive.

PS. I was also working on cleaning this guy up real nice. Still needs a bit of work.


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Just found out my buddy has a hookup with these guys (he rebuild turbos for a living and sells them)

http://www.compturbo.com/index


----------



## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

Hey I have mk 4 calipers on the Jetta you could nab when you get the turbo kit. They only have like 4k miles on them. I'd hook you up since you already are coming this way.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Look what I picked up this afternoon.  Thanks to Steve. I hope he likes the Avant Garde's, I'm gonna miss them.  I noticed a few thing that need looked at and repaired before everything goes on the car. Turbo should be serviced (rebuilt) as it has a small amount of side to side shaft play (no in / out however), a small hairline crack in the o2 housing right over one of the welds should be repaired and a broken off stud in the manifold needs extracted. Sounds like alot of work but I have a buddy that welds for a living and a buddy that rebuilds turbos for a living so we're good to go.

PS. Yes I know not all the parts are there. The hardware is bagged up as well as a few fittings and the oil line I didn't want in my living room.


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

I think journal bearing turbos always have a little play in them


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

MKIII_96 said:


> I think journal bearing turbos always have a little play in them


If thats the case we're good to go. I forgot with journal bearings you have a so to say "pocket" of oil around the shaft that basically "floats" the shaft so you will have a bit of play. :thumbup: I'll probably still have my buddy check it out just to make sure its within spec.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

the kit looks awesome :beer: sell the pte and get a garrett. i wouldnt spend any money on it. also, i like the kinetic heat shield! i dont even have that


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> the kit looks awesome :beer: sell the pte and get a garrett. i wouldnt spend any money on it. also, i like the kinetic heat shield! i dont even have that


I'm still debating on what I want to do in regards to that. Depends on how much the PTE is worth I guess. No sense selling it and not being able to afford a Garrett when I already have a driveable turbo. Plus the fact that it will be top mounted I will always be able to keep an eye on the shaft play, etc by doing regular inspections.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> I'm still debating on what I want to do in regards to that. Depends on how much the PTE is worth I guess. No sense selling it and not being able to afford a Garrett when I already have a driveable turbo. Plus the fact that it will be top mounted I will always be able to keep an eye on the shaft play, etc by doing regular inspections.


:laugh: already attached to you turbo. at least get that thing rebuilt with garrett internals, and a new turbine housing. :beer:

check this out :facepalm: this could be you soon, GO GARRETT

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5617888-BT-blowby-burning-oil-catch-can-problem-HELP!!


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Big_Tom said:


> :laugh: already attached to you turbo. at least get that thing rebuilt with garrett internals, and a new turbine housing. :beer:
> 
> check this out :facepalm: this could be you soon, GO GARRETT
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5617888-BT-blowby-burning-oil-catch-can-problem-HELP!!


While I agree that Garrett is superior to Precision in terms of overall reliability, the problems in that link have nothing to do with the turbocharger. Oil blowby is a result of poor piston to ring seal and bad compression. If you have never taken your motor apart why do you insist on giving other people advice :screwy:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> While I agree that Garrett is superior to Precision in terms of overall reliability, the problems in that link have nothing to do with the turbocharger. Oil blowby is a result of poor piston to ring seal and bad compression. If you have never taken your motor apart why do you insist on giving other people advice :screwy:


:facepalm: you again. 

but anyways maybe he just think's it's "blow by" :laugh:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> While I agree that Garrett is superior to Precision in terms of overall reliability, the problems in that link have nothing to do with the turbocharger. Oil blowby is a result of poor piston to ring seal and bad compression. If you have never taken your motor apart why do you insist on giving other people advice :screwy:


Did you know that PTE use to use Garrett internals and ever since they stopped their turbos went downhill? Now you do. :laugh:


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

I thought they still did? I know they use turbonetics turbine wheels


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Did you know that PTE use to use Garrett internals and ever since they stopped their turbos went downhill? Now you do. :laugh:


:thumbup:

that guy doesn't know anything, he just likes to talk :laugh:



MKIII_96 said:


> I thought they still did? I know they use turbonetics turbine wheels


nope, this is why some people have them rebuilt w/ garrett internals for reliability's sake


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

MKIII_96 said:


> I thought they still did? I know they use turbonetics turbine wheels


I was told by Barder (you may know him) that they no longer use Garrett internals (only the older ones do). He rebuilds them for a living so I trust his knowledge.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Btw the tranny is going back up in tomorrow morning. Also pretty sure my shifting problems were completely fixed from the BFI trans mount I threw in. S&P confirmed that they didn't feel anything out of the ordinary.  It's nice to have a second opinion to ease your mind.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Btw the tranny is going back up in tomorrow morning. Also pretty sure my shifting problems were completely fixed from the BFI trans mount I threw in. S&P confirmed that they didn't feel anything out of the ordinary.  It's nice to have a second opinion to ease your mind.


^^^ ur gonna be rollin soon :thumbup:ic:


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> I was told by Barder (you may know him) that they no longer use Garrett internals (only the older ones do).


that is correct. Earlier billet wheeled PTE turbos such as the 6057s used the garret chra (water and oil feeds/outlets) and then they switched to ceramic ball bearing chra so no longer garret chra. I'm assuming there was a change from garret also for the journal bearing chras.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Still gotta find me some rods but would like to wait until next paycheck to do so.


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

keepin stock pistons still?


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

MKIII_96 said:


> keepin stock pistons still?


Haven't really decided on that. I was thinking about replacing rings and putting them back in. I'm more worried about the exhaust valves than anything.


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

:thumbup:

just put some in. its only $160 bucks... you never know, that $160 could save you $1000+ in the future


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

I mean I haven't really heard any problems with the stock pistons at least not at my power goals. I've heard of alot of exhaust valve problems however.

Where should I get valves and springs from? I should have just enough left in my budget to buy some this month. I remember reading somewhere also that the guides go bad as well but that's like $200 in valve guides.


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

yeah theres nothin wrong with stock pistons. i would just get supertech valves. i got mine from BFI but i bought the whole kit with 20 valves, springs bla bla. they had the best price. supertechs springs are a little soft compared to ferrea and IE, but theyre probably fine for you. i doubt youll wanna rev past 8k. id say theyre ok to go to 8.5k

alot of ppl use the supertech valves. IE had them in thier engine when they were testing the IE springs/cams, i think they were revvin to 9k for minutes at a time lol so they take a beatin


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

dont get inconel valves. stainless valves will suffice and then some, def hone the block and do new rings and treat the motor as fresh. you'll be happy.


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

MKIII_96 said:


> yeah theres nothin wrong with stock pistons. i would just get supertech valves. i got mine from BFI but i bought the whole kit with 20 valves, springs bla bla. they had the best price. supertechs springs are a little soft compared to ferrea and IE, but theyre probably fine for you. i doubt youll wanna rev past 8k. id say theyre ok to go to 8.5k
> 
> alot of ppl use the supertech valves. IE had them in thier engine when they were testing the IE springs/cams, i think they were revvin to 9k for minutes at a time lol so they take a beatin


I can't find valves on BFI... I guess they don't sell them anymore. I'll look around.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

if i had to pick 1 or the other, i'd get valves over pistons as well for 400whp or below


----------



## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

travis_gli said:


> I can't find valves on BFI... I guess they don't sell them anymore. I'll look around.


yeah i got them last year. i think they were on closeout


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

i didnt do either for over 3 years with 400+

i kept my afr below 12.5 in order to keep egt down and such. that head is perfectly fine with 30k+ of BT 400+ on it.

but stainless valves are yout ticket, and their cheap on ECS actually.


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-337_20AE--1.8T/Engine/Mechanical/Cylinder_Head/ES259707/


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Vegeta Gti said:


> http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-337_20AE--1.8T/Engine/Mechanical/Cylinder_Head/ES259707/


Cheaper from Clay... http://www.ctsturbo.com/cart/products/Supertech_1_8T_20v_Exhaust_Valve_Set-2770-365.html

ECS's shipping costs are insane for w/e reason as well.

I'm guessing stock springs will do?


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

then get them from clay lol, jus sayin. but yes..no cams, no need for springs. just keep limiter at/below 7600


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

http://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Motorsports-3845-MTX-L-Powersports/dp/B004MDXVRU

Might as well add that to the shopping list.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Vegeta Gti said:


> dont get inconel valves. stainless valves will suffice and then some, def hone the block and do new rings and treat the motor as fresh. you'll be happy.


The price difference between inconel and stainless exhaust valves is $100 give or take. I would get the inconels.


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> The price difference between inconel and stainless exhaust valves is $100 give or take. I would get the inconels.


I heard that the inconel is kind of brittle and delicate.

I've heard nothing but good things about the Ferrera Super Alloy Exhaust Valves


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

inconel is giving you no benefit really on a street car, but if you have something go wrong, you will be building a new motor. dont fall to the hype. yes inconel is cool, but can you afford the post carnage rebuild?

inconel - breaks and goes through motor,turbo,etc

stainless - bends


they both handle much more heat than OEM. save the $100 and eventually save your pistons,head and block if a failure occurs. basic truth here, not a scam or a lie. your not gonna be pushing insane egt's, brake boosting on a 2step/launch control system repeatedly in a day at the track,every weekend...so why take the risk


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Vegeta Gti said:


> inconel is giving you no benefit really on a street car, but if you have something go wrong, you will be building a new motor. dont fall to the hype. yes inconel is cool, but can you afford the post carnage rebuild?
> 
> inconel - breaks and goes through motor,turbo,etc
> 
> ...


exact reasons why I went the Supertech Stainless as well :thumbup:


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Vegeta Gti said:


> inconel is giving you no benefit really on a street car, but if you have something go wrong, you will be building a new motor. dont fall to the hype. yes inconel is cool, but can you afford the post carnage rebuild?
> 
> inconel - breaks and goes through motor,turbo,etc
> 
> ...


:beer: if i ever buy valves stainless they will be


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

groggory said:


> I heard that the inconel is kind of brittle and delicate.
> 
> I've heard nothing but good things about the Ferrera Super Alloy Exhaust Valves


Exactly :thumbup:


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

$302 for the clutch install which was awesome. Whoever said "like stock engagement" for an FX400 (I know I read it somewhere and I aplogize) but that's complete bullsh!t. I don't mean that in any means in a bad way either. Now unless it needs bled more I have 75% less pedal engagement. I have maybe at best 4" from the floor until full engagement, the rest of the pedal travel isn't needed. It feels more like a full blown drag clutch than a stock clutch. Maybe that will go away in 500 miles of break in time however it's definitely much different. I definitely like it but I'm going to look like a complete fool in traffic until I get use to it. :laugh:

They didn't give me my stock clutch back, I should've asked for it but I doubt anybody on here would want to buy a used 02M clutch with 100k on it.


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> $302 for the clutch install which was awesome. Whoever said "like stock engagement" for an FX400 (I know I read it somewhere and I aplogize) but that's complete bullsh!t. I don't mean that in any means in a bad way either. Now unless it needs bled more I have 75% less pedal engagement. I have maybe at best 4" from the floor until full engagement, the rest of the pedal travel isn't needed. It feels more like a full blown drag clutch than a stock clutch. Maybe that will go away in 500 miles of break in time however it's definitely much different. I definitely like it but I'm going to look like a complete fool in traffic until I get use to it. :laugh:
> 
> They didn't give me my stock clutch back, I should've asked for it but I doubt anybody on here would want to buy a used 02M clutch with 100k on it.


damn! i love how soft my vr6 clutch kit is. it's better than stock pedal feel


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

groggory said:


> I heard that the inconel is kind of brittle and delicate.
> 
> I've heard nothing but good things about the Ferrera Super Alloy Exhaust Valves


Ferrea is used by ALL the top racers in ALL motorsports arenas; frankly I never even heard of supertech before I joined this forum a few yrs ago. My stepfather ran Ferrea and Manley hardware exclusively in his top fuel funny car, as did everyone else. Not really even a question as to which is better IMO :thumbup:


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

i have ferrera


the fx400 is a bit more clutch than you need, the 300 will more than suffice, the 400 is unsprung iirc, that's why it's killer.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

its sprung, but you can get unsprung as well iirc


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Yeah my 400 is 6 puck sprung but it sure as sh!t grabs lol. Regardless its fun. Might get old in traffic but it's fun.

Anybody have any pictures of the CTS heat shield installed? How does it attach? I just have it laying here and I'm trying to picture what it looks like.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

seth_3515 said:


> its sprung, but you can get unsprung as well iirc


The 500 is unsprung full race clutch. The 400 is sprung ceramic disc and it is awesome for a street car


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

300 is holding fine in 450whp cars. drives outstanding.


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

My 240mm FX400 engages at same pedal distance as oem clutch. Only difference it grabs immediately. I dig it.


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Anybody have any pictures of the CTS heat shield installed? How does it attach? I just have it laying here and I'm trying to picture what it looks like.


i can't find the picture, but IIRC it attatches to the valvecover and is supposed to arch over ur turbine housing


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> i can't find the picture, but IIRC it attatches to the valvecover and is supposed to arch over ur turbine housing


That's what I thought. I'm guessing the mount in the middle of the heat shield attaches to one of the housing bolts on the turbo. Debating on polishing it out while I'm waiting for my next paycheck to roll in.  This weekend is going to be rip and tear if my 42DD exhaust comes in. I've been waiting forever for it. I'm under the impression at this point that they weld it up upon order.


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> That's what I thought. I'm guessing the mount in the middle of the heat shield attaches to one of the housing bolts on the turbo. Debating on polishing it out while I'm waiting for my next paycheck to roll in.  This weekend is going to be rip and tear if my 42DD exhaust comes in. I've been waiting forever for it. I'm under the impression at this point that they weld it up upon order.


:laugh: about the exhaust


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> :laugh: about the exhaust


Being a state away I'd expect 2 day max delivery so I'm getting a bit worried.  It's been close to a week so I sent them an email for an update.

Also ordered a caliper carrier from ECS since mine has a frozen slide bolt, I guess I shouldn't be expecting that for another 4 weeks.   Car is basically out of commission until I get one, barely has any brakes at the moment. I guarantee the rotors I ordered from MJM will be here before the carrier. These places and their logistics. :laugh:


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> :laugh: about the exhaust


X2that exhaust will last 2 Pennsylvania winters if he's lucky...


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> X2that exhaust will last 2 Pennsylvania winters if he's lucky...


Don't even start that crap. I've had an aluminized exhaust on my car that I fabricated myself for almost 3 years now and there's barely an inch of rust on it. The most rust is on the welds themselves. Regular underbody washes at the local autowash will take care of that corrosive salt if the roads are bad. There is absolutely nothing wrong with aluminized pipes. I haven't seen one exhaust out there with the quality of 42's whether aluminized or not.


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## 87vr6 (Jan 17, 2002)

^^^ thank you, finally someone with common sense about that exhaust. my downpipe has seen 4 salt and snow filled Winters between NC and MD, and the cat back has seen two. They're holding up just fine...


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Being a state away I'd expect 2 day max delivery so I'm getting a bit worried.  It's been close to a week so I sent them an email for an update.
> 
> Also ordered a caliper carrier from ECS since mine has a frozen slide bolt, I guess I shouldn't be expecting that for another 4 weeks.   Car is basically out of commission until I get one, barely has any brakes at the moment. I guarantee the rotors I ordered from MJM will be here before the carrier. These places and their logistics. :laugh:


ECS usually ships pretty fast unless they tell you something is in stock and it's really not. I've had that happen before twice. I was gonna order my fuel injector holders/inserts from there today, but i decided to go with these.

http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Jetta/Fuel/93/10

they were cheaper and charge actual shipping. and i've spent a lot at ECS, and have never got a "reward" even tho they supposedly have a rewards program. It's time to switch things up a bit


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Vegeta Gti said:


> inconel is giving you no benefit really on a street car, but if you have something go wrong, you will be building a new motor. dont fall to the hype. yes inconel is cool, but can you afford the post carnage rebuild?
> 
> inconel - breaks and goes through motor,turbo,etc
> 
> ...


Seriously????? Not trying to start an argument here with you but where exactly did you get this info from? Inconel valves do not break any more or any less than a normal valve does. Ask me how I know via PM. They bend and break just like any normal valve would same as any ferrea valve would. :banghead:

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Exactly :thumbup:


And here comes my bozo buddy jumping on the vortex bandwagon and believing everything he reads on here as fact instead of learning from other people's actual experiences with a product. SMH

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

how do i know? experience..whether it be 8v,16 or 20..had em all engines. and so far, ask some old timers..inconel will break 99% fo the time and a stainless will bend 90% of the time, i'm not saying they WON'T break..cos **** breaks lol. but for a street car, it's superior to stock and if you have a belt failure, or keyway break,etc,etc the stainless will take more force punishment vs an inconel. they are more brittle than standard super alloy/stainless.


ask all the guys over the years about dropping valves, lots of inconel drops and snaps vs stainless.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

secondly, i go by proven in my hands and my customers and friends experience. so this is what i have gathered, have proven and been shown.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Regardless guys, why would I spend oodles of money on valves that are not necessary? Take your argument to a valves vs valves thread.  I should soon just open a build thread I guess and reserve a bunch of top posts.

Also I didn't want to sound too short fused up there about the exhaust but don't feed bullsh!t in my thread. :thumbup: If I'm not mistaken a-lot of stock automotive exhausts are aluminized from the factory and they have no problem lasting years upon years of hard use. Plus I don't want crap slip fit joints on my car like the other systems have.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Regardless guys, why would I spend oodles of money on valves that are not necessary? Take your argument to a valves vs valves thread.  I should soon just open a build thread I guess and reserve a bunch of top posts.
> 
> Also I didn't want to sound too short fused up there about the exhaust but don't feed bullsh!t in my thread. :thumbup: If I'm not mistaken a-lot of stock automotive exhausts are aluminized from the factory and they have no problem lasting years upon years of hard use. Plus I don't want crap slip fit joints on my car like the other systems have.


Unless 42dd is using vband now I would rather have a slip fit joint than their 3 bolt flange design


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Unless 42dd is using vband now I would rather have a slip fit joint than their 3 bolt flange design


:laugh: :screwy:


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Those flat 3 bolt flanges on a 42dd system are extremely difficult to work with. I know, i've had a 42dd 3" turbo back, and then their catback when I went to a 3071.


I had a v-band system done in 3" aluminuzed mandrel bent by a local shop. The v-bands and flanges were expensive, but it's cake to take off, install and aligning to get rid of knocking, and vibrations etc is super easy.

Loosen a v-band, rotate bits to clear


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

A custom vband exhaust is not in my budget for this build. I wanted 3" to support the new BT setup and I believe I made the best economical decision in regards to that. Obviously I most definitely didn't want a slip fit exhaust and the fact that its very simple to swap out 42DD's test pipe with a cat makes it even more of a plus for myself because of PA emissions. Yes vbands are nice / convenient but I'm not in it for nice or convenience I'm in it for basic functionality and quality which the 42DD exhaust has. As long as the exhaust gases exit the rear of my car I am happy.

PS - I've never heard anybody complain about 42's exhaust in regards to a pain to install, rattling etc and they have been out for quite a while now.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Yes vbands are nice / convenient but I'm not in it for nice or convenience I'm in it for basic functionality and quality


:beer:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

^ :laugh: :beer: Made me laugh at work  thanks!


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> ^ :laugh: :beer: Made me laugh at work  thanks!


FAWK Yeh Man:thumbup: Thats how i feel about v-bands as well. i dont mind a good flange/bolt setup :beer:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

I'm a big dummy, I should'v ordered my exhaust with an extra o2 bung and egt bung. I contacted sales at 42 so we'll see if I caught them in time. :thumbup:

Nvm caught them in time. :thumbup:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

i have a self made 304 stainless 3" exhaust all vbanded here. vband is reliable, easy, functional and beautiful.

but as you stated, you have a specified budget and all of that stuff can be changed at a later date.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

$24 for the 2 additional bungs, not bad.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> I'm a big dummy, I should'v ordered my exhaust with an extra o2 bung and egt bung. I contacted sales at 42 so we'll see if I caught them in time. :thumbup:
> 
> Nvm caught them in time. :thumbup:


An EGT bung in the downpipe is pretty much worthless. You need to put it in your manifold to really see how things are doing


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

really? so like 6ft away from the turbine's not accurate?

Travis I hated that sprung 6puck / heavy PP combo. Mine wore out really pretty quickly (about 20K) and you had to slip the balls off it to engage decent. Otherwise it was on/off.


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> An EGT bung in the downpipe is pretty much worthless. You need to put it in your manifold to really see how things are doing


x2 iirc the exhaust cools down quite a bit after it passes through the turbo. you would want to probe the manifold to know the temps coming out of the head and going into the turbo.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

screwball said:


> really? so like 6ft away from the turbine's not accurate?
> 
> Travis I hated that sprung 6puck / heavy PP combo. Mine wore out really pretty quickly (about 20K) and you had to slip the balls off it to engage decent. Otherwise it was on/off.


It's more like 2 or 3 feet away. Honestly it will do just fine, just because the gases will be cooler where my sensor would be doesn't mean I won't be able to see any fluctuations in temperature. Yes the reading will be cooler however I will be able to see if the gases are hotter or colder at any given time which is my goal. If I don't like what I'm seeing I'll plug the whole back up with the provided plug. I can always drill and tap the manifold or have a bung welded on the o2 pipe.

In regards to the clutch, I'm sure I can get use to it however I don't like that you say it wore out in 20k especially after I just blew roughly 1400 on one including labor. The engagement isn't much of a concern to me as long as it holds under power. I had to slip it a bit pulling into the car wash the other day or I would've went right through the autowash. :facepalm: Hope I didn't hurt it.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> It's more like 2 or 3 feet away. Honestly it will do just fine, just because the gases will be cooler where my sensor would be doesn't mean I won't be able to see any fluctuations in temperature. Yes the reading will be cooler however I will be able to see if the gases are hotter or colder at any given time which is my goal. If I don't like what I'm seeing I'll plug the whole back up with the provided plug. I can always drill and tap the manifold or have a bung welded on the o2 pipe.
> 
> In regards to the clutch, I'm sure I can get use to it however I don't like that you say it wore out in 20k especially after I just blew roughly 1400 on one including labor. The engagement isn't much of a concern to me as long as it holds under power. I had to slip it a bit pulling into the car wash the other day or I would've went right through the autowash. :facepalm: Hope I didn't hurt it.


having that EGT in your downpipe is ok. the manifold or o2 pipe would be ideal. I personally would never tap my manifold for that. I'd rather have it in the o2 pipe instead. also, travi FWIW i had a spring 6 puck on one of my sr20dets. it was very "on and off" and i had so slip it alot for smooth engagement. this was 2004/2005


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> having that EGT in your downpipe is ok. the manifold or o2 pipe would be ideal. I personally would never tap my manifold for that. I'd rather have it in the o2 pipe instead. also, travi FWIW i had a spring 6 puck on one of my sr20dets. it was very "on and off" and i had so slip it alot for smooth engagement. this was 2004/2005


I've seen a couple guys running EGT's in their manifolds but I couldn't put myself to drilling a hole through mine. Again it's going to suck sitting in traffic with it. I haven't had it out yet except for the drive home since I'm still waiting on my caliper carrier. It should be here this afternoon and she should be back on the road.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

My v-band exhaust was 350$ installed.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

gdoggmoney said:


> My v-band exhaust was 350$ installed.


It cost me around $200 when I did mine myself (that was just in parts.) So that's not bad at all except there wouldn't be one shop around here that would do it for that price.


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Food for thought

http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-components-18t-exhaust-system-vw-mk4-chassis-p-13923.html


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> Food for thought
> 
> http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-components-18t-exhaust-system-vw-mk4-chassis-p-13923.html


pffttt $850 exhaust is not food for my thoughts


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> Food for thought
> 
> http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-components-18t-exhaust-system-vw-mk4-chassis-p-13923.html


That's a catback, I'm not paying $850 plus shipping for a catback exhaust that has "dual mufflers" and mig welds. :screwy:


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

Sarcasm *ahem...


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

travis_gli said:


> That's a catback, I'm not paying $850 plus shipping for a catback exhaust that has "dual mufflers" and mig welds. :screwy:


You're piecing together a BT setup; which will require a proprietary downpipe. I fail to see the problem. Mig welds are extremely strong, its stainless, and v-banded. What more do you want? 

You're more than willing to plunk down the same coin on an aluminized system. 

Your logic escapes me...


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

I went to JEGS, got the muffler I wanted and some piping with exhaust clamps.. I wanted a side exit so I am using the exhaust clamps to put it together. Then after its complete take it to your local welder and he will weld a few seams, less than an hour and charge $40 or so.. Did it on my last car and held up for years....

If you want super cheap use the exhaust clamps and exhaust putty..


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## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> It's safe to say this build is going nowhere fast


 Wow what a prick. Its safe to say you need a Kotex. You sound like a child trying to beg someone to actually waste there time racing whatever hunk of crap you drive. Even if you won a race your still a tool kid. / rant 
Don't bother replying cuz I'm not arguing with you kid so keep your bs out of his thread. 

Travis things are def coming together. Ignore the haters. Some just hate to see ppl doing what they please with their car.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> You're piecing together a BT setup; which will require a proprietary downpipe. I fail to see the problem. Mig welds are extremely strong, its stainless, and v-banded. What more do you want?
> 
> You're more than willing to plunk down the same coin on an aluminized system.
> 
> Your logic escapes me...


 The last time I checked I didn't piece anything together, I have a complete CTS 50 trim kit sitting on my living room floor. I want a complete exhaust and unless I'm under some sort of misconception here does the CTS o2 flange not end where the stock k03 flange ends (as in where the downpipe attaches?) Also is it not the same flange? (These are rhetorical questions Farley.) :screwy: 



formerly silveratljetta said:


> It's safe to say this build is going nowhere fast


 Where's your build? Would you like to dish out $5k to me? I would gladly accept it. 

Report of spending on my checking account from my credit union over the past 30 days. Don't tell me this build isn't going anywhere. 











steve-o 16v GLI said:


> Wow what a prick. Its safe to say you need a Kotex. You sound like a child trying to beg someone to actually waste there time racing whatever hunk of crap you drive. Even if you won a race your still a tool kid. / rant
> Don't bother replying cuz I'm not arguing with you kid so keep your bs out of his thread.
> 
> Travis things are def coming together. Ignore the haters. Some just hate to see ppl doing what they please with their car.


 :thumbup: 


As for an update on everything. I replaced my caliper carrier last night so she's driveable again (only $150 from ECS, the only place that carried it :facepalm:.) Drove it to work today and either I'm starting to get use to the clutch or I'm getting more pedal. I have about 50 miles on it right now. My next paycheck comes in on the 25th so I'll be ordering rods and valves then. I already made the decision that S&P will be doing the rods and valves and I will be putting the 50 trim kit on myself later down the road.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

seth_3515 said:


> :laugh::laugh:
> 
> First thing that came to mind.. "to the window, to the wall! To the sweat drop.. Etc" Bahahaha
> 
> -Xbox ftw!!


 :beer: 



steve-o 16v GLI said:


> Wow what a prick. Its safe to say you need a Kotex. You sound like a child trying to beg someone to actually waste there time racing whatever hunk of crap you drive. Even if you won a race your still a tool kid. / rant
> Don't bother replying cuz I'm not arguing with you kid so keep your bs out of his thread.
> 
> Travis things are def coming together. Ignore the haters. Some just hate to see ppl doing what they please with their car.


 :beer::beer: 



travis_gli said:


> The last time I checked I didn't piece anything together, I have a complete CTS 50 trim kit sitting on my living room floor. I want a complete exhaust and unless I'm under some sort of misconception here does the CTS o2 flange not end where the stock k03 flange ends (as in where the downpipe attaches?) Also is it not the same flange? (These are rhetorical questions Farley.) :screwy:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 The CTS o2 pipe does bolt up to your factory or aftermarket downpipe. I've had the same un modded ebay downpipe for about 5 years now. on stock turbo and BT. CTS kit is designed so that you still keep using the downpipe that u currrently have. I hope this clears things up a little more:beer::thumbup:


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Vegeta Gti said:


> buy the rods now, put them in. then start saving. then look for a pagparts 3071 kit.
> 
> that would be the intelligent thing to do. it's gettign really fukn old seeing people go hey, just do rods last, and the frequency of the "**** i should've done rods" or " i'm selling my BT car cos of rod knock/blown" threads is getting annoying.
> 
> ...


 I couldn't agree more.:thumbup: 

Most people do this in reverse b/c they want to go fast right away. Then you end up like Tom with a stock block and a VR6 clutch barely making over 300whp


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## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

And now that all d baggery is over back to the build. 

Trav I got my exhaust done at Gehmans off the Adamstown exit on 222. They do great work, fast, cheap. Took every car I've owned there.


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

So travis what all came with your turbo kit? Or what parts do you still need to finish this up?


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

MKIII_96 said:


> So travis what all came with your turbo kit? Or what parts do you still need to finish this up?


 I haven't really dug through everything yet but I'll still need injectors, gaskets, an air filter and a fuel pump. Nothing major, the kit is pretty much complete. As for major purchases go I still need to figure out what for FMIC setup I want and get a hold of some rods, bearings, piston rings and valves as well as the gaskets required for that job. 

Now moving on to my clutch and my transmission for an update. I still have the 5th / 6th gear problem where I'll be on the highway and attempt to shift into 6th and instead it drops into 4th. Also this morning I was in reverse, backed up and then went to pull it out of reverse and basically had to force it out. I'm starting to get alot more pedal than what I had, I'm thinking I should bleed the clutch.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

bleed brakes then clutch. check cables for adjustment.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Vegeta Gti said:


> bleed brakes then clutch. check cables for adjustment.


 I thought you were suppose to bleed closest to the reservoir to furthest away? That would mean clutch, drivers front, passenger front, drivers rear, passenger rear. Or should I do drivers front, passenger front, drivers rear, passenger rear then clutch?


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Bled the clutch and now I have engagement at the end of the pedal travel instead of at the beginning. It feels much more like the stock clutch now however its still more on / off. Not sure if they just forgot to bleed it when they put it in or some air pockets got loose from daily driving but I got a whole slew of air out of there. That would explain why I couldn't get it out of reverse this morning.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Do youself a favor and run gaskets everywhere. manifold to turbo inlet, turbine outlet to o2 pipe, wastegate gaskets, and of course o2 to downpipe


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

Big_Tom said:


> Do youself a favor and run gaskets everywhere. manifold to turbo inlet, turbine outlet to o2 pipe, wastegate gaskets, and of course o2 to downpipe


 Vband ftw!


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

codergfx said:


> Vband ftw!


 the kit he bought doesnt have v-band. also i have seen vbands leak before and there are v-band gaskets out there


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

Big_Tom said:


> the kit he bought doesnt have v-band. also i have seen vbands leak before and there are v-band gaskets out there


 yea i know, ive seen it before hoping mine wont gasketless, but incase that does happen i bought one of those gaskets you speak of :beer:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> Do youself a favor and run gaskets everywhere. manifold to turbo inlet, turbine outlet to o2 pipe, wastegate gaskets, and of course o2 to downpipe


 I planned on this. 

Also I had another problem regarding the clutch this morning. I had a bit of trouble pulling it out of 1st gear after pulling into a clients parking lot. The clutch seems to be engaging and disengaging fine. I'm thinking it either needs bled more, it's a master cylinder problem or something wrong with the selector forks themselves however I never had problems pulling out of gear before the clutch went in. The master cylinder was never replaced and I know bleeding the slave cylinder in these O2M's is really finicky.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> I planned on this.
> 
> Also I had another problem regarding the clutch this morning. I had a bit of trouble pulling it out of 1st gear after pulling into a clients parking lot. The clutch seems to be engaging and disengaging fine. I'm thinking it either needs bled more, it's a master cylinder problem or something wrong with the selector forks themselves however I never had problems pulling out of gear before the clutch went in. The master cylinder was never replaced and I know bleeding the slave cylinder in these O2M's is really finicky.


 ^^^ it sux ur having problems getting that clutch adjusted right. thankfully mine went in smooth and i haven't had a problem with it. i doubt it's the forks or the master cylinder because they were fine right before you put in the new clutch


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

did you replace the throwout bearing when the clutch was installed?


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Vegeta Gti said:


> did you replace the throwout bearing when the clutch was installed?


 Yup the kit came with a new one. I sort of think there's still some air in there or something causing problems. 




Big_Tom said:


> ^^^ it sux ur having problems getting that clutch adjusted right. thankfully mine went in smooth and i haven't had a problem with it. i doubt it's the forks or the master cylinder because they were fine right before you put in the new clutch


 It did have some issues before the clutch was put in but they were gears not engaging properly like shifting to 6th would actually drop the trans into 4th. But I have never had disengagement problems.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

still sounds like cable adjustment to me. 

when you bleed the clutch master and slave you dont need to bleed the brakes. but when you bleed the brakes..you start furthest away from master. 

anyway, get your bentley and get those cables finalized...sometimes they dont lock onto the end and they move when you shift


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Vegeta Gti said:


> still sounds like cable adjustment to me.
> 
> when you bleed the clutch master and slave you dont need to bleed the brakes. but when you bleed the brakes..you start furthest away from master.
> 
> anyway, get your bentley and get those cables finalized...sometimes they dont lock onto the end and they move when you shift


 yah, mine actually didn't lock the 1st time i put it in place and it slid back down out of place


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

They are definitely locked but I'll re-adjust the linkage (put the shifter to home as well as the trans) and go from there. I still think there's air in there because I don't have problems until I'm at normal operating temps (or maybe somebody put some DOT3 in there and its boiling off, I think DOT3 is good to 470 or so however.) If I have to have S&P drop the trans again so be it. Needs to be figured out before I throw 300+ ft lbs of torque at it. If it's something they did they will admit it and not charge me as all their work is warrantied. Good guys over there other than the fact I bled an @ssload of air out of the slave over the weekend. You would've thought it was a pneumatic cylinder. :laugh:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Adjusted the linkage last night and I haven't noticed anything yet today in regards to having problems shifting wise however the clutch still clunks / grabs like hell from a stand still in 1st gear. I'm guessing it does this just because I'm at a standstill. Shifting into every other gear when actually moving is butter smooth. 

I did notice when adjusting that the outlined piece in the picture I can basically just grab and pull off of the shifter. Should this be held in place by something? (Picture isn't from my car but basically same thing) 

UPDATE: Getting ETKA installed so I can take a look.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Why does it happen? Because race car!

My twin disk does the same thing from a stand still. Its either engaged or it isn't. And when it engages its like bam! Its a combo of the clutch you're using and no dual mass flywheel. What you need to learn or find is the happy place between riding/slipping the clutch to engage it and throttle application. Once you find that you'll be a lot happier. Every now and then i still get that though and its not fun. 

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

schwartzmagic said:


> Why does it happen? Because race car!
> 
> My twin disk does the same thing from a stand still. Its either engaged or it isn't. And when it engages its like bam! Its a combo of the clutch you're using and no dual mass flywheel. What you need to learn or find is the happy place between riding/slipping the clutch to engage it and throttle application. Once you find that you'll be a lot happier. Every now and then i still get that though and its not fun.
> 
> ...


 :laugh: It just makes me cringe when it happens.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

modified car...live with it. 

moving on.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Clutch wouldn't disengage right today again. Called S&P and they said the same thing that there's probably still air in the slave cylinder. Going to bleed the sh!t out of it this weekend and see what happens. 

Definitely want to get it worked out before moving on with anything else.


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

travis_gli said:


> Clutch wouldn't disengage right today again. Called S&P and they said the same thing that there's probably still air in the slave cylinder. Going to bleed the sh!t out of it this weekend and see what happens.
> 
> Definitely want to get it worked out before moving on with anything else.


 
Air is the only thing it can be really, unless your input shaft is screwed up but i think they would have noticed that when they put it on.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

MKIII_96 said:


> Air is the only thing it can be really, unless your input shaft is screwed up but i think they would have noticed that when they put it on.


 Should I just power bleed it? I can easily rig up a power bleeder out of an old weed sprayer this weekend. Or just break down and buy a motive for $50.


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## burkechrs1 (Dec 1, 2008)

If you think you'll ever need to bleed a clutch again id just spend the $50. But that's me.

Sent from my DROID2 using Tapatalk


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

you gotta bleed the **** outta these 02Ms. You dont need a power bleeder either. Do it manually w help from a friend. Just keep cranking the clutch, press and hold and have your buddy bleed it until the dont hear/see any more air coming outta the bleeder. Takes forever.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

schwartzmagic said:


> you gotta bleed the **** outta these 02Ms. You dont need a power bleeder either. Do it manually w help from a friend. Just keep cranking the clutch, press and hold and have your buddy bleed it until the dont hear/see any more air coming outta the bleeder. Takes forever.
> 
> Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


 This is what I was trying to do originally but it comes out with so much [email protected] pressure and so fast because of that pressure its difficult to crack the bleeder screw and tighten it again before the pedal hits the floor. I didn't want to risk getting more air in there. Thats where the power bleeder would help out as I could put 10psi through it without having a brake fluid geyser. I should probably get some 1/4 OD tubing to stop the geyser (possibly put some sort of restrictor on the end).  Either way I'll give it a go this weekend. :thumbup: Again it needs worked out before I continue with anything else. Nothing gets done half @ssed in this build.


----------



## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Thats the way we did mine w a lil hose and eventually the pressure builds up. Theres no air in my line. Power bleeder is a waste of money.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

power bleeders rule. you just arent good with them if you cant utilize tools:wave::heart:


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## xxsur3shotxx (Sep 24, 2009)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdf--suwqw0 
give this a shot? seems legit.... 5:30 on is what I'm referring to.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Vegeta Gti said:


> power bleeders rule. you just arent good with them if you cant utilize tools:wave::heart:


 Lol, just dont see the value in spending $50 on that thing. That and I'm too old/old school. 

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

xxsur3shotxx said:


> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdf--suwqw0
> give this a shot? seems legit.... 5:30 on is what I'm referring to.


 that video was awesome :beer:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

xxsur3shotxx said:


> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdf--suwqw0
> give this a shot? seems legit.... 5:30 on is what I'm referring to.





> @528im52 Don't do this if you have ABS. ABS is made to go one way, not to go backwards. It doesn't mean you WILL break it,﻿ but there is a possibility it could malfunction.


 I don't think this would matter when bleeding the clutch...? Either way it looks much more effective than every method I've seen on here. 


Also a look into the life of the famous and well known Clay.


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## xxsur3shotxx (Sep 24, 2009)

travis_gli said:


> I don't think this would matter when bleeding the clutch...? Either way it looks much more effective than every method I've seen on here.
> 
> 
> Also a look into the life of the famous and well known Clay.


 ^^^ that comment was someone referring to someone else asking if that method worked for bleeding brakes


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

xxsur3shotxx said:


> ^^^ that comment was someone referring to someone else asking if that method worked for bleeding brakes


 I sort of figured that. I'm going to give this a go this weekend most likely. :thumbup: Instead of sitting there pumping the clutch pedal for hours trying push the air out.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

if VW builds a machine to power bleed the brakes,etc....then it must be correct. if they made a specific repair program for it all. it must be fine.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Paycheck came today  Since this @sshole told me he's selling "his brand" rods and not IE (my original supplier that I was under the impression they were IE rods after waiting 2 weeks) where can I pick up some IE rods for a good price? Including bearings and bolts.

Rifle drilling? Calico coated bearings? Does rifle drilling sacrifice any structural integrity of the rods? What does it take for a 1.8t to spin a rod bearing? Rifle drilling and calico bearings are an extra $180 roughly so thats a fairly hefty addition and I'm wondering if it's worth it.


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## tirerub (Apr 29, 2010)

I went with drilled and coated bearings , just because your already thousands of $ in whats a couple hundo in the big picture of a build, also they just help with the longevity of the motor


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Paycheck came today  Since this @sshole told me he's selling "his brand" rods and not IE (my original supplier that I was under the impression they were IE rods after waiting 2 weeks) where can I pick up some IE rods for a good price? Including bearings and bolts.
> 
> Rifle drilling? Calico coated bearings? Does rifle drilling sacrifice any structural integrity of the rods? What does it take for a 1.8t to spin a rod bearing? Rifle drilling and calico bearings are an extra $180 roughly so thats a fairly hefty addition and I'm wondering if it's worth it.


you could try and buy them for IE directly or, get some Brute's from PAG. both will have the bearing and bolts you want as well of course :beer:


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

travis_gli said:


> Paycheck came today  Since this @sshole told me he's selling "his brand" rods and not IE (my original supplier that I was under the impression they were IE rods after waiting 2 weeks) where can I pick up some IE rods for a good price? Including bearings and bolts.
> 
> Rifle drilling? Calico coated bearings? Does rifle drilling sacrifice any structural integrity of the rods? What does it take for a 1.8t to spin a rod bearing? Rifle drilling and calico bearings are an extra $180 roughly so thats a fairly hefty addition and I'm wondering if it's worth it.


NOT going with rifle drilled rods on a street car is a big mistake IMO. The factory rods were drilled for a reason. No harm in skipping the calico though, unless you're shooting for dyno queen numbers.


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## Matt1023 (Oct 1, 2007)

I just received my 1.8t rods from IE, I sent them out there and they did the rifle drilling in house :thumbup: for an extra $100 its nothing in the grand scheme of your build. Dont forget the piece at mind its as reliable as can be


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

I want this but why would you rebuild it with OEM parts. :screwy:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5515473-AEB-Head-completely-rebuilt&highlight=AEB+head


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

travis_gli said:


> I want this but why would you rebuild it with OEM parts. :screwy:
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5515473-AEB-Head-completely-rebuilt&highlight=AEB+head


Most people trust OEM parts...and for good reason! There are many grades of after market parts.

I would trust that head. Seems like a textbook rebuild.

If it were my head though, I would have spent more money and built it up with an upgraded valvetrain and some mods.


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

travis_gli said:


> I want this but why would you rebuild it with OEM parts. :screwy:
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5515473-AEB-Head-completely-rebuilt&highlight=AEB+head


idk about $1000 plus shipping. you could find a complete AEB head on here for $450, buy exhaust valves and new valve seals, get the head resurfaced, lap the valves and be around $750.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

MKIII_96 said:


> idk about $1000 plus shipping. you could find a complete AEB head on here for $450, buy exhaust valves and new valve seals, get the head resurfaced, lap the valves and be around $750.


So no guides just seats?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

MKIII_96 said:


> idk about $1000 plus shipping. you could find a complete AEB head on here for $450, buy exhaust valves and new valve seals, get the head resurfaced, lap the valves and be around $750.


But they already did all the labor for you. Install is value added service.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

groggory said:


> But they already did all the labor for you. Install is value added service.


This is true but I would most definitely want upgraded valve train in the head rather than factory components. Sort of defeats the whole purpose behind buying an AEB head unless replacing a f***ed factory head. I will just stick with my AWP and be happy about. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Supertech-V...1-8T-Golf-Jetta-Seat-/310379217056#vi-content

Where else can you get seals... I didn't exactly want to buy these on eBay


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

duh travis...get it from Arnold


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

18T_BT said:


> duh travis...get it from Arnold


:thumbup:

I just shot him an email.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

he is out of town currently, so he may be slow to respond. but i agree. he has CNC capabilities and knows hwo to work a head.

get an AWP worked from him..you'll love it.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Vegeta Gti said:


> he is out of town currently, so he may be slow to respond. but i agree. he has CNC capabilities and knows hwo to work a head.
> 
> get an AWP worked from him..you'll love it.


That's not really an option unless he gives me a core fee or something where I would receive a rebuilt head from him and send him my old head when its installed. I can't just rip the head off my daily driver and ship it out. :laugh:


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

travis_gli said:


> That's not really an option unless he gives me a core fee or something where I would receive a rebuilt head from him and send him my old head when its installed. I can't just rip the head off my daily driver and ship it out. :laugh:


I don't see why he wouldn't. Im sure he has a head or 2 laying around


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> I don't see why he wouldn't. Im sure he has a head or 2 laying around


If he wants to build me a head for less than what I would have into my own head including labor I would be all for it.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Exhaust goes in today. :thumbup:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

sounds like you should jsut put exhaust valves in the head you have and rebuild a nother head later.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Vegeta Gti said:


> sounds like you should jsut put exhaust valves in the head you have and rebuild a nother head later.


this :thumbup: really, just put on the turbo kit and get the car running. enjoy it for a while and if you want more, get a used head and build it. the problem with doing TONS of motor work at once is when you put it back together if something isn't quite right you have many more places to check/inspect. if this is your daily, get the bottom end and the turbo squared away 1st. save the head for later if you want more


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> this :thumbup: really, just put on the turbo kit and get the car running. enjoy it for a while and if you want more, get a used head and build it. the problem with doing TONS of motor work at once is when you put it back together if something isn't quite right you have many more places to check/inspect. if this is your daily, get the bottom end and the turbo squared away 1st. save the head for later if you want more


Sounds like a plan, top priority at the moment is getting rods in there. :thumbup:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Sounds like a plan, top priority at the moment is getting rods in there. :thumbup:


:beer:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Well I thought I had the clutch straightened out as I bled the living p!ss out of it on Saturday. It drove smooth as a baby Sunday and then today as I was pulling out of my driveway it stuck in reverse. Then traffic was backed up and it stuck in 1st. You could tell it wasn't fully disengaged as the car was still pulling forward slightly and when release the clutch it was basically already engaged (it didn't grab as usual). Also some gears would clunk into place. I guess I'm just taking it back to S&P at this point to see if they can figure it out, I hope its just as simple as getting air out of the slave cylinder and not a pilot bearing. :banghead:

The exhaust on the other hand went in like a breeze. The flanges somewhat sucked but they are 100% solid and exactly what I was looking for. As for the sound, I haven't really had a chance to hear it outside of the car but its much more quiet than my straight 2.5" as you can actually hear yourself think. It's much less raspy and cackly when off throttle. All in all it's an amazing exhaust.

*BUILD UPDATE*: 20mm Brute rods with AEB pistons and everything else to get them installed will be ordered most likely by the end of today. You said to build the bottom end sooo there you have it.  :thumbup:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Definitely want the bay looking like this. :thumbup: Gives me motivation.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Definitely want the bay looking like this. :thumbup: Gives me motivation.


I look at bays like this nowadays and i'm like "what a mess!" Lol

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> *BUILD UPDATE*: 20mm Brute rods with AEB pistons and everything else to get them installed will be ordered most likely by the end of today. You said to build the bottom end sooo there you have it.  :thumbup:


:thumbup:


Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> *BUILD UPDATE*: 20mm Brute rods with AEB pistons and everything else to get them installed will be ordered most likely by the end of today. You said to build the bottom end sooo there you have it.  :thumbup:


:beer: this is prob what my bottom end will consist of


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Some quick questions about tuning. I'm most definitely going unitronic. If I do and I absolutely need emissions since this is PA inspection and my daily driver, can I get any of the deletes? Mafless should be okay but what about the rest such as SAI removed, N249 delete and EVAP delete?

Also what is VSS patch and relay 101 delete? Why no N75 delete? And if you keep traction control can you still disable it as usual?


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

travis_gli said:


> Some quick questions about tuning. I'm most definitely going unitronic. If I do and I absolutely need emissions since this is PA inspection and my daily driver, can I get any of the deletes? Mafless should be okay but what about the rest such as SAI removed, N249 delete and EVAP delete?
> 
> Also what is VSS patch and relay 101 delete? Why no N75 delete? And if you keep traction control can you still disable it as usual?


Might have a UNi 630 ECU for sale very shortly. wideband with all the deletes.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Uni 630 is a really good file. I would buy gdogmoney's before buying one from anyone else... But if you decide to go maestro, hit up Marc at VAP.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

I'll be taking my car to Stahley's (authorized dealer down the road from me) to get a Uni tune as well as more fine grain tuning when I'm ready. I have already had horrid experience purchasing used tuned ECU's from Vortex. No offense to anybody but I will never do it again whether it saves me cash or not. The original ECU that came in the car stays in the car. :thumbup: Back to my questions please.

Here's some pics from over the weekend doing my exhaust. Sorry they suck, I had little to no help doing the exhaust so I only snapped a few with my iPhone.




























Again whoever says anything against the quality of 42DD exhausts is an idiot.
Soon you'll be seeing this bolt up to an O2 pipe. 









Clearance of everything was perfect. Not even near perfect it was, hands down, perfect.









After everything was together I had no rattles etc as I was very careful while installing. Other than the added vibrations to the cabin (which I'm not worried about) everything else it awesome. The car is much more quiet inside and much less raspy than the crap exhaust I use to have on there. :thumbup:


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

42 makes great stuff. It takes hours to get that exhaust off once it has been on a good while. Ran their 3" turbo back for years. I melted a resonator with Anti-lag/2 step but thats hardly their fault. It took a year to do that as well. Hope you used a good bit of antiseize. I blew out the cheap gaskets and moved to copper 3" header collector gaskets. They fit and you can get them on summit.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

gdoggmoney said:


> 42 makes great stuff. It takes hours to get that exhaust off once it has been on a good while. Ran their 3" turbo back for years. I melted a resonator with Anti-lag/2 step but thats hardly their fault. It took a year to do that as well. Hope you used a good bit of antiseize. I blew out the cheap gaskets and moved to copper 3" header collector gaskets. They fit and you can get them on summit.


No antiseize for this guy :laugh:. I should've but I didn't have any on hand. Oh well. How long did it take for the provided gaskets to blow out?

BUILD UPDATE: Since the AEB pistons are out of stock I upped my order to a set of Wiseco's.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

gdoggmoney said:


> 42 makes great stuff. It takes hours to get that exhaust off once it has been on a good while. Ran their 3" turbo back for years. I melted a resonator with Anti-lag/2 step but thats hardly their fault. It took a year to do that as well. Hope you used a good bit of antiseize. I blew out the cheap gaskets and moved to copper 3" header collector gaskets. They fit and you can get them on summit.


Another reason to avoid 3 bolt flanges. V-Band = no gaskets to fail


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

Vbands aren't perfect either though goofball.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

screwball said:


> Vbands aren't perfect either though goofball.


this :thumbup:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Another reason to avoid 3 bolt flanges. V-Band = no gaskets to fail


That's why people run custom v-band gaskets... right? :laugh::facepalm:

BUILD UPDATE: Car is back at S&P having the clutch checked out. Considering all their work is warrantied instead of busting my @ss trying to bleed the thing I'll let them do it. They have more resources anyway. :thumbup: I had alot of problems with it not disengaging in 1st gear again yesterday. It was that bad it was pulling the car forward fairly well with the clutch in and I was having alot of trouble pulling it out of gear (its completely intermittent though.) I can almost guarantee that during them test driving it, it won't act up.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Another reason to avoid 3 bolt flanges. V-Band = no gaskets to fail





screwball said:


> Vbands aren't perfect either though goofball.





Big_Tom said:


> this :thumbup:


I'm having an issue with one of my vband flanges or clamps. Can't figure out which one. It's post O2 so not too big a problem. Then I have an issue with the hotside to manifold vband connection. Since my turbo is bottom mount it is a b!tch to get to line up perfect. So there's an exhaust leak there for now. Need to remove the downpipe off the hotside and loosen the vband at the manifold then realign and tighten everything down again. Not fun. Makes me wish sometimes I would have had a top mount vband manifold regardless of the heat a top mount might give off. Lining up a top mount vband is a million times easier than holding the turbo up from the bottom with one hand and trying to clamp the vband clamp with the other... :banghead:


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

xxsur3shotxx said:


> Call up Goro, he'd be happy to lend a helping hand.
> 
> Nah, but really, that must be a pain. Turbo's aren't light either....


It wouldn't be too bad if I had the car up on a lift. It's a lot more difficult when you're on the floor. 

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## xxsur3shotxx (Sep 24, 2009)

schwartzmagic said:


> It wouldn't be too bad if I had the car up on a lift. It's a lot more difficult when you're on the floor.
> 
> Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


yeah, I know the feeling. I put in my whole set up on my back in the driveway. It would be nice to have a garage.....


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

screwball said:


> Vbands aren't perfect either though goofball.


Haven't had one fail on me yet. Then again if you buy cheap v-bands they will break too. 

Tial all day


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

i spent $$ on my stainless vbands, and it was all done in the garage. no gaskets...no leaks, perfect everytime for 4 years and counting.


i built my whole car on jack stands..from a stock no interior MKI GLi to the beast it is now..in under two months. floor was fukn cold as balls lol


anyway, i think the fx400 is overkill. the 300 feels better and can handle more power than your making. but it sounds like they may not have replaced the slave/throwout...which your clutch kit came with. i JUST did an fx100 in my buddys 20th, flywheel,pp,clutch and new slave/TO. 

hooked it up to the pressure bleeder, got it to 25psi.cracked it open and closed repeatedly. then had him pump it and bleed several times. added pressure back to 25, straight bleed it. works greats. took 20 minutes.


find a new shop to go to:beer:


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

You really do need a power bleeder to get the air out of that 02M slave. Doing it manually sounds like a huge pita. I only manually bled a car once. After that I said never again


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Vegeta Gti said:


> i spent $$ on my stainless vbands, and it was all done in the garage. no gaskets...no leaks, perfect everytime for 4 years and counting.
> 
> 
> i built my whole car on jack stands..from a stock no interior MKI GLi to the beast it is now..in under two months. floor was fukn cold as balls lol
> ...


I never had any problems with s&p so I'd like to stick with them but if I find out they didn't replace the slave with the one the clutch came with I'll be fairly pissed. I told them to drive it until they experience what I was. I don't want the car back until it has no problems shifting. Their work is warrantied so I'm not paying for it unless it turns out being something other than what the clutch job entitled.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

:beer::beer:


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> I never had any problems with s&p so I'd like to stick with them but if I find out they didn't replace the slave with the one the clutch came with I'll be fairly pissed. I told them to drive it until they experience what I was. I don't want the car back until it has no problems shifting. Their work is warrantied so I'm not paying for it unless it turns out being something other than what the clutch job entitled.


Do you really expect them to spend hours in labor messing around with it and then admit it was their fault?


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Do you really expect them to spend hours in labor messing around with it and then admit it was their fault?


not everybody is as slimy as you :facepalm: FAWKIN PESSIMIST B*TCH


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

You guys and your power bleeders. Bunch of sissies. What are you on your periods? Man up and manually bleed your clutches. Thats why theres man in manually. Because thats how real men do it. Lol

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

travis_gli said:


> No antiseize for this guy :laugh:. I should've but I didn't have any on hand. Oh well. How long did it take for the provided gaskets to blow out?
> 
> BUILD UPDATE: Since the AEB pistons are out of stock I upped my order to a set of Wiseco's.


They lasted about 3-4 months then I smelled some exhaust in cabin.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Do you really expect them to spend hours in labor messing around with it and then admit it was their fault?


Yes I do because this was the original agreement. They can't charge me to put in a new slave cylinder when I handed them a brand new one from the get go. There isn't much they can say is wrong with it that shouldn't have been fixed when installed the new clutch and flywheel other than a bad selector fork or something internally in the transmission.



schwartzmagic said:


> Listen up there sparkle pants... I dont wack it to my ass in the mirror like you do. Yes doing it manually requires two people. I don't need to jerk off. I have wife that does it for me. Stop bringing your **** erotic fantasies out in a public forum. Go back inside your closet and stay there.
> 
> Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


:laugh: Sparkle pants :thumbup:




gdoggmoney said:


> They lasted about 3-4 months then I smelled some exhaust in cabin.


Exhaust smell I can deal with, loud leaks I cannot. Exhaust leaks are definitely one of my pet peeves because I dealt with them for over a year because of my sh!t kinetics manifold and turbo bolts backing out. If I had to do it over again I would have bought or made one of those locking spacers for the 3 bolts where you just bend up the corners. Every one of my turbo nuts on my CTS kit will most definitely be locked into place by some means.


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## xxsur3shotxx (Sep 24, 2009)

gdoggmoney said:


> They lasted about 3-4 months then I smelled some exhaust in cabin.


You think they blew out quickly due to use of 2step/nls?


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

xxsur3shotxx said:


> You think they blew out quickly due to use of 2step/nls?


I would agree that this would be a major cause of blown gaskets. Whether I'm right or not who knows.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

BUILD UPDATE: S&P re-power bled the clutch Friday. I have probably put about 60 miles on it since Friday night when I picked it up and I haven't had any problems with the clutch not disengaging properly... yet. We'll see how it goes this week which will be the real test because of work traffic.

Here's some goodies I got in the mail. :thumbup:














































Still waiting on the Wiseco's. Anybody have any experience with Wiseco's? They look like some pretty solid pistons compared to the stockers.

Wish I could provide some ripping and tearing pictures of the motor but since its my daily driver all this work is going to be done by yet again S&P unless I feel up for it one of these weekends.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

oem head gasket id superior to 99% of the aftermarket ****. grab one

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Vegeta Gti said:


> oem head gasket id superior to 99% of the aftermarket ****. grab one
> 
> Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk


this. it is a pretty sick gasket


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Vegeta Gti said:


> oem head gasket id superior to 99% of the aftermarket ****. grab one
> 
> Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk


Elring is an OEM supplier to VW and Audi. The head gasket provided in that kit is an OEM gasket. Not sure how much more OEM you want me to get. :laugh:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Gonna try and easy out that manifold stud today. Doubt I'll have any luck but its worth a shot before I drop it off at a machine shop.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Welp easy out broke off inside the stud. :banghead: Oh well, time to take it to the machine shop. I'm probably about half way drilled through the easy out but I probably broke and dulled about $20+ worth of drill bits in the process so instead of wasting my time and money I'd rather just have somebody do it.

Also I found my shifting problem and fixed it tonight.



















T25 torx took care of the loose bolt. :thumbup:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

elring does not make the same actual dealer sold gasket.

you can second guess me, maybe those years at the dealer were a dream.

trust me, go get an actual dealer oem gasket, compare it to an aftermarket price. victor reinz used to make the stuff. 

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Vegeta Gti said:


> elring does not make the same actual dealer sold gasket.
> 
> you can second guess me, maybe those years at the dealer were a dream.
> 
> ...


I'm not second guessing you but Elring AND Reinz provide gaskets directly to VW (you can easily research this if you do not believe me.) The gasket is in the kit, it's getting used. I have never heard anybody having problems with Elring head gaskets or any other Elring gaskets for that matter. Please realize Elring IS OEM whether they are used at the dealerships or not. No offense but I could care less what was used at your dealership. I'm not spending extra money for absolutely no reason. If I had some random @ss off brand head gasket it would be a completely different story.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> I'm not second guessing you but Elring AND Reinz provide gaskets directly to VW (you can easily research this if you do not believe me.) The gasket is in the kit, it's getting used. I have never heard anybody having problems with Elring head gaskets or any other Elring gaskets for that matter. Please realize Elring IS OEM whether they are used at the dealerships or not. No offense but I could care less what was used at your dealership. I'm not spending extra money for absolutely no reason. If I had some random @ss off brand head gasket it would be a completely different story.


:thumbup:

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

for the first time in this thread, I'm have to say, your stupid for telling me this. 

they are different, very different. wtf would i know, I'm just a dude and all kids on here know because they read it here. **** what the facts prove, do what you want. your car, tort money, vortex its the end all be all



Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Welp disengaging issues are back. :banghead:


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Welp disengaging issues are back. :banghead:


Time to find a new shop


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Time to find a new shop


It has to be the slave cylinder because if you push the pedal in and the clutch doesn't properly disengage you can keep the pedal in and let the car pull itself forward a little... eventually the clutch disengages without playing with the pedal at all. It's almost like the slave cylinder is hanging up. Makes me wonder if they actually put the new slave in or if the new slave is sh!t. It can't be the master because the exact opposite would happen. You would push the clutch in and it would lose pressure rather and engage more rather then disengage at a later time.

A new slave would be $90 + shipping + another $300 roughly. :banghead:


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## STOICH (Jun 21, 2010)

You ever find out if they bench bled that slave? I've never used the power bleeder, but I'm not sure if even that is able to fully bleed the air out of an O2M slave.

Might try using a syringe & tube and forcing fluid directly into the slave (remove the bleeder valve).


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

STOICH said:


> You ever find out if they bench bled that slave? I've never used the power bleeder, but I'm not sure if even that is able to fully bleed the air out of an O2M slave.
> 
> Might try using a syringe & tube and forcing fluid directly into the slave (remove the bleeder valve).


Do you think it's still air causing the issue at this point? If that's the case I'll syringe it myself and take it back and let them power bleed the entire system again. That way its not my wallet paying for the DOT4 plus I should have squeaky clean fluid at that point.


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## STOICH (Jun 21, 2010)

Maybe - I'm not really sure, but it's worth a shot at this point. It really does sound like a slave issue, though.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

STOICH said:


> Maybe - I'm not really sure, but it's worth a shot at this point. It really does sound like a slave issue, though.


Bought a 20ml syringe and some small diameter tubing from Ebay (probably like $6 shipped for everything). I'll give it a go when it arrives for now I'll just have to deal with it. I'm still deciding whether or not I'm having the same garage do my rods. If its a slave problem I really can't blame them, even it its air in the system I can't blame them unless they didn't bench bleed the slave. 02M's are a finicky b!tch.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Bought a 20ml syringe and some small diameter tubing from Ebay (probably like $6 shipped for everything). I'll give it a go when it arrives for now I'll just have to deal with it. I'm still deciding whether or not I'm having the same garage do my rods. If its a slave problem I really can't blame them, even it its air in the system I can't blame them unless they didn't bench bleed the slave. 02M's are a finicky b!tch.


I used a power bleeder on a brand new 02M slave. No bench bleeding nonsense. Had it running in 15 min. Like I said, find a new shop


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> I used a power bleeder on a brand new 02M slave. No bench bleeding nonsense. Had it running in 15 min. Like I said, find a new shop


Good for you. This shop has a high reputation in the area, they have never cheated me on labor costs (if it was a shady garage I would've paid more than $300 for a clutch install which also would have told me they had no idea what they were doing) and they have always worked with me, they also got me out of a pickle the other month in regards to my k03 leaking coolant. I don't trust any other garages in the area and I have had not one good recommendation of any others. Unless you would like to move into the area, open up a shop that works on VW's and build your own reputation I would suggest you stop offering sh!t advice that doesn't fix my problem at hand. If they told me they used a power bleeder they used a f*cking power bleeder and if it didn't fix the problem then it didn't fix the f*cking problem. Again it isn't the garages fault if the slave / master are bad or even if there still is air in the line. I would hate to be the sorry mechanic working for an @sshole like you.

PS. If you think bench bleeding is nonsense it shows your stupidity in the matter. Leave my thread please. :facepalm:


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Good for you. This shop has a high reputation in the area, they have never cheated me on labor costs (if it was a shady garage I would've paid more than $300 for a clutch install which also would have told me they had no idea what they were doing) and they have always worked with me, they also got me out of a pickle the other month in regards to my k03 leaking coolant. I don't trust any other garages in the area and I have had not one good recommendation of any others. Unless you would like to move into the area, open up a shop that works on VW's and build your own reputation I would suggest you stop offering sh!t advice that doesn't fix my problem at hand. If they told me they used a power bleeder they used a f*cking power bleeder and if it didn't fix the problem then it didn't fix the f*cking problem. Again it isn't the garages fault if the slave / master are bad or even if there still is air in the line. I would hate to be the sorry mechanic working for an @sshole like you.
> 
> PS. If you think bench bleeding is nonsense it shows your stupidity in the matter. Leave my thread please. :facepalm:



First, nobody works on my car but me. Second, I powerbled the slave myself in the driveway that is how I know you are being jerked around. Learn how to do things yourself or keep listening to the excuses from the same people who are happy to keep taking your money :facepalm:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

$80 an hour at the machine shop to get the broken off stud out of that manifold.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> $80 an hour at the machine shop to get the broken off stud out of that manifold.


that happend to me once. cost me 250 to get fixed


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> that happend to me once. cost me 250 to get fixed


Better than a new $500 manifold I guess. :thumbup:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Better than a new $500 manifold I guess. :thumbup:


yup :facepalm:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> yup :facepalm:


This is why PB blaster is your friend.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Cleaned up thread...

Have fun


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

groggory said:


> Cleaned up thread...
> 
> Have fun


 Thank you.

Larry at my machine shop said I did good getting that easy out snapped off in the bolt. :laugh:


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

travis_gli said:


> Thank you.
> 
> Larry at my machine shop said I did good getting that easy out snapped off in the bolt. :laugh:


FYI...I snapped a stud in my exhaust housing awhile back. I managed to easy out most of the screw but the bottom half of the screw was super wedged in there.

What we ended up doing was we pushed the screw in as much as we could, then replaced the hole with a steel timesert thread insert + resbond blue super high temp thread lock.

Been good for 4 or 5 months now.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

groggory said:


> FYI...I snapped a stud in my exhaust housing awhile back. I managed to easy out most of the screw but the bottom half of the screw was super wedged in there.
> 
> What we ended up doing was we pushed the screw in as much as we could, then replaced the hole with a steel timesert thread insert + resbond blue super high temp thread lock.
> 
> Been good for 4 or 5 months now.


Stop scaring me. :laugh:


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

travis_gli said:


> Stop scaring me. :laugh:


But really. Once a stud snaps you have like one chance at easy-out'ing the stud. After that the amount that you will manhandle it to get the rest out will screw up those threads. Once the threads in the head are screwed up you're always going to have studs backing out and not offering the security and strength they had when they had good threads to go into.

If the threads are messed up I suggest using a timesert or keensert to repair them to a like-new state. I do not trust helicoils. If you can't get the bottom of the snapped stud out, then push it in as much as possible and change that stud to be a shorter than normal stud and use an appropriately lengthed insert.

Amazon carries these if you need them. That's where I get my timesert stuff.


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## 04 GLI Luva (May 30, 2007)

This thread is great! lol


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

04 GLI Luva said:


> This thread is great! lol


fuk yes.


nubs unite


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Looking for new turbo to manifold studs for my CTS manifold. Definitely won't put the previous brittle ones in there since they've been through so many heat cycles. Does ARP make these? Where can I pick a set of 4 up?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

travis_gli said:


> Looking for new turbo to manifold studs for my CTS manifold. Definitely won't put the previous brittle ones in there since they've been through so many heat cycles. Does ARP make these? Where can I pick a set of 4 up?


 Find out thread, pitch, direction, material, and length. Call ARP. They'll hook you up.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

I believe they are M10 x 1.5, unsure of the length since I'm at work this morning. Can anybody confirm this? Depending on pricing I may just order Stage 8 bolts with locking hardware from Summit Racing. I believe the bolts should have plenty of clearance. 

EDIT: 25mm in length sounds about right since thats really the only length that stage 8 offers. I believe thats about right. 

Also just ordered the Nissan T3 gasket. :thumbup:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Change of game plan. Ordering a bunch of stuff from 034 instead including studs, nuts, locking brackets, antiseize, 4 bolt t3 exhaust gasket, and 2 tial 38mm wastegate gaskets. All totaling around $75 without shipping. I'm going with 034 because the studs are reasonably priced and the locking brackets are simple design that is going to work and easy to install. "Keep it simple stupid."


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> I believe they are M10 x 1.5, unsure of the length since I'm at work this morning. Can anybody confirm this? Depending on pricing I may just order Stage 8 bolts with locking hardware from Summit Racing. I believe the bolts should have plenty of clearance.
> 
> EDIT: 25mm in length sounds about right since thats really the only length that stage 8 offers. I believe thats about right.
> 
> Also just ordered the Nissan T3 gasket. :thumbup:


 yeah i'm pretty sure they are m10x1.5. i have 20mm bolts. 25mm should still work tho 



travis_gli said:


> Change of game plan. Ordering a bunch of stuff from 034 instead including studs, nuts, locking brackets, antiseize, 4 bolt t3 exhaust gasket, and 2 tial 38mm wastegate gaskets. All totaling around $75 without shipping. I'm going with 034 because the studs are reasonably priced and the locking brackets are simple design that is going to work and easy to install. "Keep it simple stupid."


 :beer::thumbup:


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## 04 GLI Luva (May 30, 2007)

I got bolts with lock washers from home depot on my 4 bolt t3 flange with red loctite and never had an issue lol 

APR bolts is totally unnecessary, APR is good for when you need extra clamping force, but all you need is for turbo to manifold bolts to not back out, your not having to torque the hell outta them that your worried about them stretching.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

04 GLI Luva said:


> I got bolts with lock washers from home depot on my 4 bolt t3 flange with red loctite and never had an issue lol
> 
> APR bolts is totally unnecessary, APR is good for when you need extra clamping force, but all you need is for turbo to manifold bolts to not back out, your not having to torque the hell outta them that your worried about them stretching.


 ARP makes bolts. 

APR makes software.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

:laugh: I knew what he meant. 

Does anybody use anti-seize on the manifold end of the studs? Seems to me like that would allow them to work themselves loose.


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## xxsur3shotxx (Sep 24, 2009)

travis_gli said:


> :laugh: I knew what he meant.
> 
> Does anybody use anti-seize on the manifold end of the studs? Seems to me like that would allow them to work themselves loose.


 I didn't. I haven't had a problem with anything backing out either. Only issue I have is that the damn drain flange keeps leaking. I've replaced the gasket once already, didn't help. I'm going to redo the whole thing with the IE drain flange, new gasket, and some RTV. Hopefully that will keep it from leaking, as when it leaks it drips directly on one of the manifold runners.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

xxsur3shotxx said:


> I didn't. I haven't had a problem with anything backing out either. Only issue I have is that the damn drain flange keeps leaking. I've replaced the gasket once already, didn't help. I'm going to redo the whole thing with the IE drain flange, new gasket, and some RTV. Hopefully that will keep it from leaking, as when it leaks it drips directly on one of the manifold runners.


 Sounds like the flange is warped if its leaking around the flange itself.


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## xxsur3shotxx (Sep 24, 2009)

travis_gli said:


> Sounds like the flange is warped if its leaking around the flange itself.


 yeah that's what I was thinking, which is why I ordered up a new flange. Hopefully its not surface on the the turbo that isn't flat.


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## 04 GLI Luva (May 30, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> ARP makes bolts.
> 
> APR makes software.


 So we're not talking about mad tight JDM parts yo?


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

xxsur3shotxx said:


> yeah that's what I was thinking, which is why I ordered up a new flange. *Hopefully its not surface on the the turbo that isn't flat.*


 Shouldn't be


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Paycheck day!  Threw a bunch of offers around for FMIC setups. Waiting on responses.


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## 04 GLI Luva (May 30, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Paycheck day!  Threw a bunch of offers around for FMIC setups. Waiting on responses.


 Aluminum > stainless steel piping all day 

IDK why some ppl like cts use SS to make their piping with aside from it being easier to weld


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

04 GLI Luva said:


> I got bolts with lock washers from home depot on my 4 bolt t3 flange with red loctite and never had an issue lol
> 
> APR bolts is totally unnecessary, APR is good for when you need extra clamping force, but all you need is for turbo to manifold bolts to not back out, your not having to torque the hell outta them that your worried about them stretching.


 I don't think red loctite will deal with those temps

Also, I think you must be just lucky. Home depot bolts are a crap shoot for quality these days


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

groggory said:


> I don't think red loctite will deal with those temps
> 
> Also, I think you must be just lucky. Home depot bolts are a crap shoot for quality these days


 Yeah use the high temp stuff.

Home Depot SUCKS!!!!!!! Go to Loews. They have everything so well organized and easy to find. Not to mention they have everything and then some.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## 04 GLI Luva (May 30, 2007)

I have a bottom mount tubi so the bolts do have some stress on them, more so then a top mount. And the red loctite works, last time i took my turbo off when i put it back i used new bolts but forgot the loctite and the bolts backed out, put loctite and never had a problem since. This was a year ago.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

04 GLI Luva said:


> Aluminum > stainless steel piping all day
> 
> IDK why some ppl like cts use SS to make their piping with aside from it being easier to weld


 eh, aluminum is just lighter. steel is way stronger. i love the CTS CAI, it's solid/quality pc of equipment. Everybody i show it to is really impressed by the make of it 



groggory said:


> I don't think red loctite will deal with those temps
> 
> Also, I think you must be just lucky. Home depot bolts are a crap shoot for quality these days


 IIRC, i think on the red loctite it says it's good to about 300 degress F 



04 GLI Luva said:


> I have a bottom mount tubi so the bolts do have some stress on them, more so then a top mount. And the red loctite works, last time i took my turbo off when i put it back i used new bolts but forgot the loctite and the bolts backed out, put loctite and never had a problem since. This was a year ago.


 true, if it works, it works :beer:


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Here's the red loctite high temp spec sheet if anyone cares to read. 
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/T_LKR_RED_tds.pdf 

Cliff note...It's good to 300F. 

I don't know why it works for the guy above, but it shouldn't work. Resbond high temp threadlock FTW


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## 04 GLI Luva (May 30, 2007)

Big_Tom said:


> eh, aluminum is just lighter. steel is way stronger. i love the CTS CAI, it's solid/quality pc of equipment. Everybody i show it to is really impressed by the make of it


 SS retains heat, kinda combats the intercooler's ability to keep AIT's as low as possible.


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## 04 GLI Luva (May 30, 2007)

groggory said:


> Here's the red loctite high temp spec sheet if anyone cares to read.
> http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/T_LKR_RED_tds.pdf
> 
> Cliff note...It's good to 300F.
> ...


 Why it works idk lol 

Maybe it has let go and the dried flakie remnants inside the threads have just provided the extra little bit of friction needed. Who knows.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

04 GLI Luva said:


> SS retains heat, kinda combats the intercooler's ability to keep AIT's as low as possible.


 It does but it also doesn't absorb heat as quickly. It keeps the heat in the piping and allows little to enter due to heat soak. Basically allows the intercooler to do its job. If you have an efficient intercooler there is nothing to worry about. 

Aluminum on the other hand can heat soak from engine components unless it is fairly thick walled which most intercooler piping setups are not unless professionally made. The godspeed piping (no offense to anybody) is garbage. I know from experience because I had a godspeed front mount and piping. I sold it a week after it came in the mail. 

In all honestly I highly doubt a huge IAT difference will be seen depending on your metal choice of piping.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

travis_gli said:


> It does but it also doesn't absorb heat as quickly. It keeps the heat in the piping and allows little to enter due to heat soak. Basically allows the intercooler to do its job. If you have an efficient intercooler there is nothing to worry about.
> 
> Aluminum on the other hand can heat soak from engine components unless it is fairly thick walled which most intercooler piping setups are not unless professionally made. The godspeed piping (no offense to anybody) is garbage. I know from experience because I had a godspeed front mount and piping. I sold it a week after it came in the mail.
> 
> In all honestly I highly doubt a huge IAT difference will be seen depending on your metal choice of piping.


 If you're worried about heat you can wrap it in aluminized coating to reflect the radiat heat of the bay.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

travis_gli said:


> It does but it also doesn't absorb heat as quickly. It keeps the heat in the piping and allows little to enter due to heat soak. Basically allows the intercooler to do its job. If you have an efficient intercooler there is nothing to worry about.
> 
> Aluminum on the other hand can heat soak from engine components unless it is fairly thick walled which most intercooler piping setups are not unless professionally made. The godspeed piping (no offense to anybody) is garbage. I know from experience because I had a godspeed front mount and piping. I sold it a week after it came in the mail.
> 
> In all honestly I highly doubt a huge IAT difference will be seen depending on your metal choice of piping.


 Tyrolsport did my intake pipe so it bolts to the valve cover. I sat in traffic for 2 hours yesterday morning, went to leave it and 0 timing thanks to heatsoak. Bought it used this way. My intake pipe is basically a heatsink for my motor, and exhaust. DEI cool wrap helped marginally, the turbo blanket to be installed may help more but still. 


It looks like I might be able to fab up an intake that is passenger side with my pag bottom mount setup. 

Barely enough room between AC hard lines and timing cover, but wtih super stiff mounts a 3" pipe may fit, or it can be necked down some.


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## 04 GLI Luva (May 30, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> It does but it also doesn't absorb heat as quickly. It keeps the heat in the piping and allows little to enter due to heat soak.


  

So much contradiction there idk where to start lol 

Your right tho the difference is probably minimal on a street car, but any car that has power as a main priority you'll never see SS piping ijs.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> It does but it also doesn't absorb heat as quickly. It keeps the heat in the piping and allows little to enter due to heat soak. Basically allows the intercooler to do its job. If you have an efficient intercooler there is nothing to worry about.
> 
> Aluminum on the other hand can heat soak from engine components unless it is fairly thick walled which most intercooler piping setups are not unless professionally made. The godspeed piping (no offense to anybody) is garbage. I know from experience because I had a godspeed front mount and piping. I sold it a week after it came in the mail.
> 
> In all honestly I highly doubt a huge IAT difference will be seen depending on your metal choice of piping.


 :beer:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

04 GLI Luva said:


> So much contradiction there idk where to start lol
> 
> Your right tho the difference is probably minimal on a street car, but any car that has power as a main priority you'll never see SS piping ijs.


 There's no contradiction, its a heavier metal, once its hot it retains the heat (takes longer to cool down.) But it doesn't absorb heat as quickly (takes longer to heat up).


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## 04 GLI Luva (May 30, 2007)

So you drive your car 5 minutes at a time...got'cha :thumbup:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

04 GLI Luva said:


> So you drive your car 5 minutes at a time...got'cha :thumbup:


 That makes absolutely no sense. :screwy: More like I went to high school and understand simple science. It takes a lot to heat up stainless. Regardless it really doesn't matter, I'll purchase whats available for a good price on the classifieds. If all fails I'll probably be going with a Eurojet race kit.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Could somebody explain or show me how the coolant line is going to run since it's not going to the turbo considering its not watercooled. Also how the oil line runs. 

Possibly give me a list of hardware I'm going to need such as any flange adapters for the block, etc etc. This is the only thing that I'm unsure if I have all the parts or not. I was told that you are suppose to recirculate the coolant rather than blocking things off. 

I would love for CTS to do this but they won't answer any emails I have sent them over the past couple weeks. :screwy: I even asked them for advice on the clutch and absolutely no response. I'll definitely be working with Arnold for now on. I don't care if your busy or what you are it's 2012 you can take the time out of your day to answer emails. It's unprofessional. :thumbdown:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4455165 :thumbup:


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

travis_gli said:


> Could somebody explain or show me how the coolant line is going to run since it's not going to the turbo considering its not watercooled. Also how the oil line runs.
> 
> Possibly give me a list of hardware I'm going to need such as any flange adapters for the block, etc etc. This is the only thing that I'm unsure if I have all the parts or not. I was told that you are suppose to recirculate the coolant rather than blocking things off.
> 
> I would love for CTS to do this but they won't answer any emails I have sent them over the past couple weeks. :screwy: I even asked them for advice on the clutch and absolutely no response. I'll definitely be working with Arnold for now on. I don't care if your busy or what you are it's 2012 you can take the time out of your day to answer emails. It's unprofessional. :thumbdown:


 I hate to say we told you so, but.. Pag would've sent you the exact stuff you needed, and you would've been driving this thing a week or two ago. You didn't want to hear it.

PM Arnold. I can guarantee he'll help you; even though you didn't buy his stuff.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> I hate to say we told you so, but.. Pag would've sent you the exact stuff you needed, and you would've been driving this thing a week or two ago. You didn't want to hear it.
> 
> PM Arnold. I can guarantee he'll help you; even though you didn't buy his stuff.


 The kit was bought used from a guy down the road and not from Clay. The clutch was purchased through Clay because he gave me the best deal. I shopped around before hand. However unfortunately it seems to me like most of these guys are in it for the cash and not so much customer service. As for Clay not giving me the required parts... that has nothing to do with anything. 

Also I've been daily driving this car since day 1 of this build. It hasn't been off the road for more than 2 consecutive days at a time. Read the thread and stop your child @ss comments.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4455165 :thumbup:


 I was looking through that but there really isn't any information regarding what I need in regards to recirculating the coolant. 

With the kit I got I have a large banjo bolt with a barbed fitting which I'm guessing is for the block as well as a black silicon hose probably about 12 inches or so long. My best guess is that this is for the coolant. But where does the other end of the silicon line go?


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> If all fails I'll probably be going with a Eurojet race kit.


 Eurojet intercooler is not your best choice. I hate to say it but you should probably hit up pagparts for a better core.


Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> I was looking through that but there really isn't any information regarding what I need in regards to recirculating the coolant.
> 
> With the kit I got I have a large banjo bolt with a barbed fitting which I'm guessing is for the block as well as a black silicon hose probably about 12 inches or so long. My best guess is that this is for the coolant. But where does the other end of the silicon line go?


 I believe it connect over by the timing belt cover.


Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> I was looking through that but there really isn't any information regarding what I need in regards to recirculating the coolant.
> 
> With the kit I got I have a large banjo bolt with a barbed fitting which I'm guessing is for the block as well as a black silicon hose probably about 12 inches or so long. My best guess is that this is for the coolant. But where does the other end of the silicon line go?


 banjo bolt on block to silicone line. run silicone line to coolant y pipe by the coolant ball


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> banjo bolt on block to silicone line. run silicone line to coolant y pipe by the coolant ball


 :thumbup: So I have what I need in regards to that. Looks like the kit is just about 100% complete then. Just need a few gaskets yet.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> :thumbup: So I have what I need in regards to that. Looks like the kit is just about 100% complete then. Just need a few gaskets yet.


 :beer:


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Which route did you take the coolant line? I don't want to be boiling coolant.


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

travis_gli said:


> The kit was bought used from a guy down the road and not from Clay. The clutch was purchased through Clay because he gave me the best deal. I shopped around before hand. However unfortunately it seems to me like most of these guys are in it for the cash and not so much customer service. As for Clay not giving me the required parts... that has nothing to do with anything.
> 
> Also I've been daily driving this car since day 1 of this build. It hasn't been off the road for more than 2 consecutive days at a time. Read the thread and stop your child @ss comments.


 Not a single one of my remarks in your thread was childish. You on the other hand ask for advice, then blast away when you don't get the response you want; id call that childish. I gave you a suggestion to call Arnold. He WILL help you.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> Not a single one of my remarks in your thread was childish. You on the other hand ask for advice, then blast away when you don't get the response you want; id call that childish. I gave you a suggestion to call Arnold. He WILL help you.


 I've already talked with Arnold. My rods, pistons, etc etc were purchased from him and are sitting in my living room. Again read the thread. Why the hell would I waste Arnold's time as he's trying to run a business with questions that can be answered here on Vortex or by the original builder of the kit itself? I'm not expecting Arnold or his company to give me support for a turbo kit that wasn't put together by him or his shop. It's childish of you to answer my questions with "ask somebody else." That isn't what this forum was meant for. It's a knowledge base for Volkswagens where enthusiasts can share their knowledge with others while in the process help them solve their problems at hand. People like you no longer understand or can grasp that aspect I guess. Why do I even waste my time. :facepalm:


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## xxsur3shotxx (Sep 24, 2009)

travis_gli said:


> Which route did you take the coolant line? I don't want to be boiling coolant.


 round the back of the block, with the heat sleeve on it.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

xxsur3shotxx said:


> round the back of the block, with the heat sleeve on it.


 Thank you sir! :thumbup: Whats the length of that hose (rough estimate?)


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

WOO! Won a $100 gift card to 034 Motorsport! Wish I had that when I ordered my gaskets and studs.  

The question now is what should I purchase with it. I'm thinking a fuel pump or injectors as I can't think of anything else I need at the moment. 

Or wideband kit? Which should I get first.


----------



## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> WOO! Won a $100 gift card to 034 Motorsport! Wish I had that when I ordered my gaskets and studs.
> 
> The question now is what should I purchase with it. I'm thinking a fuel pump or injectors as I can't think of anything else I need at the moment.
> 
> Or wideband kit? Which should I get first.


 Dont want to go back an re-read your thread. Injectors have to match software. Fuel pump should be purchased with what your hp goals are. WB is a good idear to keeps tabs on your AFR without having to run logs all the time.

What software are you running? & what are your hp goals.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

schwartzmagic said:


> Dont want to go back an re-read your thread. Injectors have to match software. Fuel pump should be purchased with what your hp goals are. WB is a good idear to keeps tabs on your AFR without having to run logs all the time.
> 
> What software are you running? & what are your hp goals.
> 
> Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


 I know all this, I know what I want, I'm just deciding on what to purchase next. Basically my shopping list is still the following... 

FMIC 
630cc injectors 
630cc Unitronic file 
Walbro 255 pump 
Wideband kit 

I'm not financially set to purchase an FMIC at the moment since I don't have $600 - $1k lying around (still trying to pay off some credit card bills). So now with this $100 gift card I won I'm looking for something to buy from 034 that I still need for my build. I'm thinking either the injectors or fuel pump, I guess it doesn't really matter which since they will both be needed.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

xxsur3shotxx said:


> round the back of the block, with the heat sleeve on it.


 :thumbup: thats how mine is. don't know the length but i'd say between 20-22 inches


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> :thumbup: thats how mine is. don't know the length but i'd say between 20-22 inches


 I definitely don't have a long enough hose then. I'll have to grab some for the install. Unless the one that came with the kit at home is longer than I think.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^ 

if the kit came with that hose, then try it and see. make sure you do have it heat wrapped tho because it run thru and area with tons of heat. I've never had a problem with it :thumbup:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> ^^
> 
> if the kit came with that hose, then try it and see. make sure you do have it heat wrapped tho because it run thru and area with tons of heat. I've never had a problem with it :thumbup:


 I measured the hose it's about 18 inches. I'm just not sure if the guy that had it before me cut it or not for his install. Should work. :thumbup: I'll probably order my fuel pump or injectors tonight. I wish 034 offered a nice front mount I could spend that gift card on.


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## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

Hey trav. The coolant line wasnt even used on my swap. I did use it to replace my coolant bottle return line when it sprung a leak but I didnt cut it. Since it was a mk3 I just deleted it completely and plugged the outlet on the block. It was cleaner that way but i dont know if you can do that on a mk4. It should be long enough though.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

steve-o 16v GLI said:


> Hey trav. The coolant line wasnt even used on my swap. I did use it to replace my coolant bottle return line when it sprung a leak but I didnt cut it. Since it was a mk3 I just deleted it completely and plugged the outlet on the block. It was cleaner that way but i dont know if you can do that on a mk4. It should be long enough though.


 :thumbup: Should be the perfect length then. Good to hear from ya man! 

Are these the correct injectors? 
http://www.034motorsport.com/fuel-i...60-lb-fuel-injector-high-impedance-p-213.html 

I wish 034 would put part numbers on their store pages. 

Nvm, they are a little overpriced. I'll just get a fuel pump off of them.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Walbro pump ordered $120 shipped. :thumbup:


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

:thumbup:

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Walbro pump ordered $120 shipped. :thumbup:


 Walbro FTW :beer:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Welp another coworker left at work. I'm not quite sure what that means for the build. It may mean having them reconsider my salary as I'll have yet again more responsibilities on my plate. However it also may mean less time to work on the GLI. We'll see how it all unfolds.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Salary re-negotiation completed... back to the build.


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## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Salary re-negotiation completed... back to the build.


:thumbup: great news! Awesome thread Travis.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Big_Tom said:


> Walbro FTW :beer:


not really


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> not really


:screwy::thumbdown:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> not really


I never heard any complaints about them. The only thing that sucks is they don't offer any warranty to back them anymore. I'm pretty sure they no longer do that because the percentage of pumps coming back in was that minimal it wasn't worth it for them to have a warranty department.

Also what sort of time am I looking at if I have a shop install my rods, pistons and new valve seals? I'm thinking around 5 hours? Unless I'm way off.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

travis_gli said:


> I never heard any complaints about them. The only thing that sucks is they don't offer any warranty to back them anymore. I'm pretty sure they no longer do that because the percentage of pumps coming back in was that minimal it wasn't worth it for them to have a warranty department.
> 
> Also what sort of time am I looking at if I have a shop install my rods, pistons and new valve seals? I'm thinking around 5 hours? Unless I'm way off.


I think 5 hours would be fast even if you brought them the engine already disassembled. It takes time to build an engine properly. I don't know how much, but I can tell you for sure it's more than 5 hours.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

groggory said:


> I think 5 hours would be fast even if you brought them the engine already disassembled. It takes time to build an engine properly. I don't know how much, but I can tell you for sure it's more than 5 hours.


So more like 8 - 12... I'm just trying to work out my expenses so I know when I have enough saved up to drop her in the shop. I'm probably looking around $600 - $800 in labor plus materials (oil, oil filter, etc).

Also I'm trying to figure out what I'm doing for a BOV. I use to have a TurboXS RFL valve, it was loud as sh!t even with the k03 but the quality was amazing. I'd really like to stick with a TurboXS valve rather than an HKS or Greddy like everybody and their brother are running. The only problem with TurboXS valves are that they are not designed for any sort of flange. They are also quite large when in comparison to a Greddy so I'm not sure where it would fit along the FMIC piping or how it would fit due to it using a butt joint style connection with a silicone coupler rather than flanging up to the pipe. I might be asking for trouble here.

http://turboxs.com/shop/blow-off-valves/131-blow-off-valve-type-h-rfl.html

Finally I'm not sure if I posted it up on here earlier but for my own records my machine shop bill to have that stud extracted was $84 and they did an outstanding job. :thumbup: (Don's Performance Corner - http://www.donsperformancecorner.com/)


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> So more like 8 - 12... I'm just trying to work out my expenses so I know when I have enough saved up to drop her in the shop. I'm probably looking around $600 - $800 in labor plus materials (oil, oil filter, etc).
> 
> Also I'm trying to figure out what I'm doing for a BOV. I use to have a TurboXS RFL valve, it was loud as sh!t even with the k03 but the quality was amazing. I'd really like to stick with a TurboXS valve rather than an HKS or Greddy like everybody and their brother are running. The only problem with TurboXS valves are that they are not designed for any sort of flange. They are also quite large when in comparison to a Greddy so I'm not sure where it would fit along the FMIC piping or how it would fit due to it using a butt joint style connection with a silicone coupler rather than flanging up to the pipe. I might be asking for trouble here.



All the big boys run Tial valves :thumbup:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> All the big boys run Tial valves :thumbup:


I was thinking about keeping it simple and getting a Tial Q.


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

tial :thumbup:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Need to find some FMIC piping. I'd like to order some just have no idea where to look. All the classified intercoolers and piping are either sold or retardedly priced. There use to be some nice wrinkle black piping on ebay that is no longer there but I'm pretty sure that was near $300 for just the piping. Any suggestions?


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

I heard you can buy the Eurojet piping separately for about 300 new :thumbup:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> I heard you can buy the Eurojet piping separately for about 300 new :thumbup:


I'm not feeling $300 plus shipping.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

You could fab it up yourself...

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index.php?cPath=19&osCsid=7e64e7082967a267bdd6d386c6e4beaa


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

groggory said:


> You could fab it up yourself...
> 
> http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index.php?cPath=19&osCsid=7e64e7082967a267bdd6d386c6e4beaa


I wouldn't even know where to start. :laugh: I mean I could base it off just looking at say a Eurojet kit but I'm sure all my measurements would be wrong since I don't have anything to physically measure.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Eurojet race core on its way. :thumbup:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

I've decided that once I gather up the required piping for my race core that I'm throwing the 50 trim kit on. I'll keep boost tapered down to around 5psi or so until I can afford to have the rods and pistons thrown in as well as software. It's definitively doing no good in my living room and when they pull the head they should be able to just unbolt the o2 pipe and oil lines from the turbo. I'm guessing I'll have to retard the timing a bit on my APR 93 tune however.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> The kit was bought used from a guy down the road and not from Clay. The clutch was purchased through Clay because he gave me the best deal. I shopped around before hand. However unfortunately it seems to me like most of these guys are in it for the cash and not so much customer service. As for Clay not giving me the required parts... that has nothing to do with anything.
> 
> Also I've been daily driving this car since day 1 of this build. It hasn't been off the road for more than 2 consecutive days at a time. Read the thread and stop your child @ss comments.


 Can you really blame them for not helping you since you didn't even buy the kit from them. Of course they are in it for the money, if they wasted all their time helping people who don't buy parts from them CTS would go out of business  

If you want customer service then buy direct from the manufacterer, especially I you aren't resourceful enough to figure out a few coolant fittings on your own lol


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Can you really blame them for not helping you since you didn't even buy the kit from them. Of course they are in it for the money, if they wasted all their time helping people who don't buy parts from them CTS would go out of business :roll eyes:
> 
> If you want customer service then buy direct from the manufacterer, especially I you aren't resourceful enough to figure out a few coolant fittings on your own lol


 Clay doesn't manufacture anything from his kit except for the o2 pipes for one :screwy: most of the rest gets drop shipped. Also I was trying to contact him about my clutch that I was having problems with since it was installed however I'm down to it being a faulty slave cylinder now. I wanted to know if I could have the faulty one replaced by ClutchMasters. Any good company will stand behind their product whether you purchased it off of them or not. For example, my ECU with APR software was purchased off of Vortex however APR still stood behind it when I was having problems. Just because the product gets transferred to somebody else doesn't mean the company doesn't have to stand behind their warranty / service anymore. If that would be the case the company wouldn't be very reputable. 

EDIT: I just sent ClutchMasters and email directly about the clutch problems to see how that will go. I still have been having problems with first gear. Basically for a temporary fix I've been shifting from second into neutral and using my brakes to come to a complete stop. Then if I want to go back into first I'll pump the clutch once or twice and that will usually allow me to drop it into gear. Once driving I have no issues and I rebled the entire system again on Friday. It's either a slave or master problem at this point.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

schwartzmagic said:


> Richard, I recommend you legally change your first name to Dick.
> 
> Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


 :laugh: 


I'm still searching around for some FMIC piping. So if anybody knows of any for sale or where I could pick up some I'd be grateful. Eurojet wants $299 + shipping for theirs. That's more than what I paid for the core... I'll pass.


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

travis_gli said:


> :laugh:
> 
> 
> I'm still searching around for some FMIC piping. So if anybody knows of any for sale or where I could pick up some I'd be grateful. Eurojet wants $299 + shipping for theirs. That's more than what I paid for the core... I'll pass.


 You could always go to the local "muffler guy", and have him 'stick weld' a 'custom' mild steel, crush bent setup:thumbup::what:


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## STOICH (Jun 21, 2010)

travis_gli said:


> :laugh:
> 
> 
> I'm still searching around for some FMIC piping. So if anybody knows of any for sale or where I could pick up some I'd be grateful. Eurojet wants $299 + shipping for theirs. That's more than what I paid for the core... I'll pass.


 Will the Greddy style ones work for you? I believe there are clones out there for under $200...check eBay.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

STOICH said:


> Will the Greddy style ones work for you? I believe there are clones out there for under $200...check eBay.


 From my research and my other thread the Greddy style pipes will not work with Eurojet cores without a decent amount of modifications. 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5666977-Anybody-have-any-experience-with-this-FMIC-piping


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> :screwy: Do you really feel the need to post in here?
> 
> My local "muffler guy" is perfectly capable of mandrel bends and TIG welding however usually any custom setup from an exhaust shop is going to cost around $400 - $500. No reason for that when there is already many nearly mass produced piping kits out there.


 I think tsudo sells a 3" stainless mandrel bent exhaust for cheap. If you're using the CTS exhaust / manifold. It looks to be pretty good and in your price range.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

schwartzmagic said:


> I think tsudo sells a 3" stainless mandrel bent exhaust for cheap. If you're using the CTS exhaust / manifold. It looks to be pretty good and in your price range.
> 
> Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


 He was saying about going to an exhaust shop to have some FMIC piping made.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Haha, whoops my bad. What kind of piping are you looking for? My boy Karey can fab up whatchu need.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

schwartzmagic said:


> Haha, whoops my bad. What kind of piping are you looking for? My boy Karey can fab up whatchu need.
> 
> Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


 Pretty sure I'm just going to have Eurojet (Stasis) send me their piping and rebar up.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

More cleanup for ridiculousness


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

groggory said:


> More cleanup for ridiculousness


 :laugh: Hooray, the maturity level has increased yet again. :thumbup: 

I contacted Kenny down at Eurojet to get a total on the piping and rebar. I've been seeing some threads from back in 2004 and up about having issues with the Eurojet race core fitment. I hope thats not the case anymore.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

travis_gli said:


> :laugh: Hooray, the maturity level has increased yet again. :thumbup:


 Don't gloat. You're guilty too. eace:


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> I heard you can buy the Eurojet piping separately for about 300 new :thumbup:


 He said







travis_gli said:


> I'm not feeling $300 plus shipping.


 You said






travis_gli said:


> :laugh:
> 
> 
> I'm still searching around for some FMIC piping. So if anybody knows of any for sale or where I could pick up some I'd be grateful. Eurojet wants $299 + shipping for theirs. That's more than what I paid for the core... I'll pass.


 

Then you said





dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> You could always go to the local "muffler guy", and have him 'stick weld' a 'custom' mild steel, crush bent setup:thumbup::what:


 Then I said


travis_gli said:


> Pretty sure I'm just going to have Eurojet (Stasis) send me their piping and rebar up.


 THEN YOU SAID THIS
Slow on the uptake?


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Look there are plenty other options for piping. Most guys buy the Greddy knock off pipes on ebay which can be had for $120 shipped. However I didn't know until recently that Greddy style piping will not be compatible with the Eurojet core nor will the stock rebar. Hence my change in mind.


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Look.. I was obviously being a wiseass, but my point is clear. You really can't beat $300 for quality piping. Count yourself lucky bud. When I built my Audi A4 back in the early 00's; my t28 that later morphed into a gt2871 setup cost me probably around 12k without internals (PES setup).. You're lucky things are so affordable now:thumbup:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

I picked one hell of an expensive hobby we'll just say that. :laugh: I've been trying to keep my cheap @ss instincts to a minimum for this build. Hence why I ended up w/ 20mm rods and Wiseco pistons rather than just a set of 19mm IE's or brutes. Or why I'm not running an Ebay front mount right now.


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

And since im actually feeling helpful. You can use this as a guide to get proper BT fueling on your current software

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2982006


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> And since im actually feeling helpful. You can use this as a guide to get proper BT fueling on your current software
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2982006


 Good find man much appreciated. It will definitely help until I can afford to get some Unitronic in there.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

> Travis, you have sent $492.00 USD to Eurojet Development Inc..


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

travis_gli said:


>


 :laugh::thumbup:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

being cheap in order to rush is gonna fuk you in the end. 

many of us said this before in this thread/time frame. 


the ej stuff is nice.


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

Call me nuts but cheap ebay pipes and a PTE 600 IC would've been my vote. Would've prolly cost a little over $500 shipped give or take.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

screwball said:


> Call me nuts but cheap ebay pipes and a PTE 600 IC would've been my vote. Would've prolly cost a little over $500 shipped give or take.


 ^^^ ur not nuts :wave:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

In the end I should have just purchased a new Eurojet race kit as I probably would have ended up spending the same amount but hey you live and learn. eace: 

Regardless I have a VR6 MAF on the way and soon some 630cc injectors. I've decided that the rods and pistons are not going in until October as I'm going on vacation to Orlando and my car will be able to sit in the shop for up to 7 days. Until then I'll be running my APR 93 tune with some minor adjustments and low boost. I should have some pics up soon in regards to the FMIC and 50 trim kit going on.


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

There's so much info on running stock turbo flashes w/ bigger turbos and lemmiwinks changes. 

GTer and Sav both had massive threads on it. 

All early BT setups were run this way also so it does work.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

screwball said:


> There's so much info on running stock turbo flashes w/ bigger turbos and lemmiwinks changes.
> 
> GTer and Sav both had massive threads on it.
> 
> All early BT setups were run this way also so it does work.


 I have a link to GT-ER's do you remember what Sav's thread is titled? Or possibly have a link to it. I was searching around but came up empty handed. 

Btw is 15psi reasonable for my stock block? I don't want to push it. I'm thinking 15 psi on my 50 trim precision (.48 exhaust side) will be good for around 300ft/lbs.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

travis_gli said:


> I have a link to GT-ER's do you remember what Sav's thread is titled? Or possibly have a link to it. I was searching around but came up empty handed.
> 
> Btw is 15psi reasonable for my stock block? I don't want to push it. I'm thinking 15 psi on my 50 trim precision (.48 exhaust side) will be good for around 300ft/lbs.


 Stock block, 30psi spikes on a 3076. 15 daily for a while. 190k on it. 0 issues. 


All in hardware and timing/tune. 

Keep it low on the .48, that's sort of chokeish housing wise and means backpressure/heat with more boost.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

screwball said:


> Call me nuts but cheap ebay pipes and a PTE 600 IC would've been my vote. Would've prolly cost a little over $500 shipped give or take.


 :thumbup:

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

run it at 18-20 psi :thumbup: i had to run 22 psi to make 276 wtq. theres no way you'll be close to 300wtq on 15 psi even with a .48 a/ housing


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## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

Trav that turbo has the .63 ar. I ran it at 20psi and it was only somewhat faster than stock turbo at 25psi. You shouldnt break 300 ft lbs at 18psi.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

steve-o 16v GLI said:


> Trav that turbo has the .63 ar. I ran it at 20psi and it was only somewhat faster than stock turbo at 25psi. You shouldnt break 300 ft lbs at 18psi.


 :thumbup: Didn't realize that. I thought the housing looked a little large.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

.63 a/r is what u want on the 50 :beer:


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

I'd do 20psi all day on a stock block if it was me. These things don't make much torque. 

I should be closer to 400wheel with my setup and I doubt I make more than 350lbft


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Just got notified that my front mount arrived. :thumbup: I'm ready to go home from work now.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

screwball said:


> I'd do 20psi all day on a stock block if it was me.


 i do this eryday :beer:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

I believe next weekend will be go time. :thumbup: Any advice for the install from now until then would be greatly appreciated. Any tips, hints, tricks? 

Also here's an interesting read... http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Clutchmasters finally got back to me. They told me that they believe there is still air in the slave line. :banghead: I'm going to go crazy with this thing soon.


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

travis_gli said:


> Clutchmasters finally got back to me. They told me that they believe there is still air in the slave line. :banghead: I'm going to go crazy with this thing soon.


 Check ur master because no matter how much I bleed my clutch there's just as much air as there was, replacing master and seeing whatll happen


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

codergfx said:


> Check ur master because no matter how much I bleed my clutch there's just as much air as there was, replacing master and seeing whatll happen


 I should have a new master on the way so that will be next. :thumbup:


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

travis_gli said:


> I believe next weekend will be go time. :thumbup: Any advice for the install from now until then would be greatly appreciated. Any tips, hints, tricks?
> 
> Also here's an interesting read... http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


 You are wise to follow that advice. That's all ill say.


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Eurojet went on today. What a pita. Everything went somewhat smoothly but the piping wasn't quite right. I had to modify my throttle body hose (forge) however I expected as much. My map sensor is a small port and the piping had a large port flange. I remedied the situation by using a piece of silicone fuel line I had that fit around the base (where the o ring is). It made a tight seal in the larger flange. Also i had to unbolt a mount to one of the hardlines on the drivers side right in front of the starter. The line bounces around a little but I believe it will be fine. The only other issue I had was trimming the bumper. I trimmed a much as possible however it is still an extremely tight fit. I'm going to need to find some strong glue to attach the valence to the bumper more securely since I had to trim a large portion of piece that holds the two together. Other than the fact my puny k03 has trouble filling 2.5" piping and a huge @ss intercooler everything went okay. It took me around 6 hours to do everything myself. Would have went much quicker with a helping hand. I'll get pics up as soon as possible.


----------



## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

:thumbup:


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

> :thumbup:


 :thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Ordered a 3" K&N filter and some blue high temp thread sealer. I'm still in need of injectors. And I just remembered I have to get my o2 pipe fixed as it has a small crack around the turbo flange weld. Looks like this weekend is a no go. I'm not jumping the gun on this one. 

I will however be cleaning up my engine bay along with my front bumper this weekend to make the front mount fit a bit nicer.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Clutchmasters finally got back to me. They told me that they believe there is still air in the slave line. :banghead: I'm going to go crazy with this thing soon.


 Does anyone else find it sad that this shop cannot properly install and bleed a new clutch. If I can do 2 clutches in the parking lot of my apartment complex with no special automotive technical training then I would hope they could figure it out :screwy:


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Does anyone else find it sad that this shop cannot properly install and bleed a new clutch. If I can do 2 clutches in the parking lot of my apartment complex with no special automotive technical training then I would hope they could figure it out :screwy:


 Yep. or that they can't diagnose a leaking line between the master resevoir and master cylinder for the clutch. They lke to pull air in once they age.


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Here's some pics from over the weekend. 




























I had to take the top horn and turn it upside down to make the piping fit properly. No biggie. 



















You can see the bulges in the bumper... don't judge my crusty ass car.  
Don't worry the vents are going back in this weekend. I'll probably have to epoxy them in place as well as epoxy the valence to the bumper to get rid of the bulging and to strengthen everything up. 



















Fitment isn't so hot with the Forge TIP but won't have to worry about that soon. :thumbup:


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Any opinions on Maestro?


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

travis_gli said:


> Any opinions on Maestro?


 There's no other real option IMO. Just be sure to run injectors with the proper spray pattern injector dynamics, ev14's, or Genesis.

Maestro is worth it simply so you never have to pay for another file ever. Forget the tunability..


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?t=5634613
Some good reading here.


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

I guess the question to really ask is, will there be a file out there that I can flash if I get Maestro or will I have to work from scratch? I'm not exactly savvy in the tuning department. 

EDIT: After reading the Maestro thread I noticed that you send out your current tune to Maestro and they send you back one for your needs. I guess my next question would be is how is this going to work with my APR software since from my understanding they encrypt their data. 

Also if the kit goes on say this weekend and I don't have my injectors yet, what problems will I run into?


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

travis_gli said:


> I guess the question to really ask is, will there be a file out there that I can flash if I get Maestro or will I have to work from scratch? I'm not exactly savvy in the tuning department.
> 
> EDIT: After reading the Maestro thread I noticed that you send out your current tune to Maestro and they send you back one for your needs. I guess my next question would be is how is this going to work with my APR software since from my understanding they encrypt their data.
> 
> Also if the kit goes on say this weekend and I don't have my injectors yet, what problems will I run into?


 The later versions of maestro already have every tune available for your ecu. Just load up the one you want. 

As far as the ecu goes; you'd be ahead of the game to buy a used factory aww/awp ecu, and sell the Apr coded one for a profit, that you can apply to your maestro purchase.

Id recommend running a maf too; in order to save yourself headaches at least initially.


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> The later versions of maestro already have every tune available for your ecu. Just load up the one you want.
> 
> As far as the ecu goes; you'd be ahead of the game to buy a used factory aww/awp ecu, and sell the Apr coded one for a profit, that you can apply to your maestro purchase.
> 
> Id recommend running a maf too; in order to save yourself headaches at least initially.


 The ECU would have to be IMMO defeated or I would at least need the SKU from it correct? since I have a late model mk4. This would be to "marry" the gauge cluster. Also I have a VR6 MAF sitting at home so I'm good in that aspect.


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

travis_gli said:


> The ECU would have to be IMMO defeated or I would at least need the SKU from it correct? since I have a late model mk4. This would be to "marry" the gauge cluster. Also I have a VR6 MAF sitting at home so I'm good in that aspect.


 Chris will just email you an immob defeat code that you enter in either quick tune or maestro (I forget) and you'll be all set. 

I had my factory ecu immobilize itself on me for some crazy reason, and Chris emailed me the code, I entered it and she was all good:thumbup:


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> Chris will just email you an immob defeat code that you enter in either quick tune or maestro (I forget) and you'll be all set.
> 
> I had my factory ecu immobilize itself on me for some crazy reason, and Chris emailed me the code, I entered it and she was all good:thumbup:


 If you want could you PM me Chris's email address.


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Does it matter what 1.8t ECU I get? I know mine ends in RM so I'm guessing I should try to match that?


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

It doesn't matter...any wideband ECU will work from DL (which is AWW) to all AWP's LP/PL/RN etc it doesn't matter if it's 5spd or 6spd either as these are load based ECU's.


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

travis_gli said:


> If you want could you PM me Chris's email address.


 His personal address is in my old email account; which I unfortunately no longer have access to..

http://www.eurodyne.ca/contact_eurodyne.php


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Support @eurodyne.ca


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

^^^^^ what he said lol


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

18T_BT said:


> It doesn't matter...any wideband ECU will work from DL (which is AWW) to all AWP's LP/PL/RN etc it doesn't matter if it's 5spd or 6spd either as these are load based ECU's.


 Is wideband required for Maestro? I know I'm currently running narrowband which means I would have to change out some sensors as well as do a little bit of modifications to the harness correct?


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

travis_gli said:


> Is wideband required for Maestro? I know I'm currently running narrowband which means I would have to change out some sensors as well as do a little bit of modifications to the harness correct?


If you have a 2005 GLI then you have a wideband ECU :thumbup:

And wideband isn't required, but is preferred because you can tune those ECU's with more precision/accuracy in comparison to a narrowband ECU.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Is wideband required for Maestro? I know I'm currently running narrowband which means I would have to change out some sensors as well as do a little bit of modifications to the harness correct?


If your car is a 2005 how could you be running a narrowband tune?


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

18T_BT said:


> If you have a 2005 GLI then you have a wideband ECU :thumbup:
> 
> And wideband isn't required, but is preferred because you can tune those ECU's with more precision/accuracy in comparison to a narrowband ECU.


Wow I was soooo misinformed on this. I was told that the mk4's are all narrowbands. :screwy: So basically I already have a wideband ECU and I should be looking at finding another wideband 1.8t ECU. If I'm looking at used ECU's how can I tell if it's a wideband?


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Wow I was soooo misinformed on this. I was told that the mk4's are all narrowbands. :screwy: So basically I already have a wideband ECU and I should be looking at finding another wideband 1.8t ECU. If I'm looking at used ECU's how can I tell if it's a wideband?


Read the god damn FAQ and it will tell you :facepalm:


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Read the god damn FAQ and it will tell you :facepalm:


Cool your jets, I'm asking for help. From what I seen there really isn't anything in the FAQ that clearly states the difference in ECU part numbers, years or anything about narrowbands vs widebands other than the conversion threads.


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

travis_gli said:


> Cool your jets, I'm asking for help. From what I seen there really isn't anything in the FAQ that clearly states the difference in ECU part numbers, years or anything about narrowbands vs widebands other than the conversion threads.


Its in the faq, but irrelevant. You have a wideband car, as all AWW'S and AWP'S are wideband. Essentially any mk4 from late 2001 up. Just find a stock AWW or AWP ecu, and you're in business :beer:


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> Its in the faq, but irrelevant. You have a wideband car, as all AWW'S and AWP'S are wideband. Essentially any mk4 from late 2001 up. Just find a stock AWW or AWP ecu, and you're in business :beer:


yep :thumbup:


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> Its in the faq, but irrelevant. You have a wideband car, as all AWW'S and AWP'S are wideband. Essentially any mk4 from late 2001 up. Just find a stock AWW or AWP ecu, and you're in business :beer:


Sweet deal thanks for not being a [email protected] about it. :laugh::thumbup:

I love when people try to talk down on me. Just like their 5 minute bottom mount turbo removal. :screwy:


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

travis_gli said:


> Sweet deal thanks for not being a [email protected] about it. :laugh::thumbup:
> 
> I love when people try to talk down on me. Just like their 5 minute bottom mount turbo removal. :screwy:


No problem buddy:beer:


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Thinking about buying this to remedy the CTS short oil drain line.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM3150/

I'll have to check when I get home but I'm almost positive I don't have a 45 AN fitting. Could be wrong though.

Also my shopping list as of now consists of the following (necessary items before the kit can go on)

Fiveo Bosch 650cc injectors
Silicone bending reducer for turbo to charge pipe from silicone intakes
and possibly that 45 degree AN fitting from summit

Very short list but trying to get bills paid and make this BT build continue at the same time is a bit rough. :thumbup:


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Thats the fitting i have :thumbup:


----------



## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

I wouldn't use those Bosch 650s, you can get a better spray pattern Bosch 550 for cheaper and run a 4bar for a flawless idle.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

screwball said:


> I wouldn't use those Bosch 650s, you can get a better spray pattern Bosch 550 for cheaper and run a 4bar for a flawless idle.


So no Fiveo's? Where can I pick up the Bosch 550's.


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

PM for the link


----------



## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

PM'd you


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

sick prices :beer:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

So all for 550's... yay or nay?


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ if thats what you want, then get them. thats a nice price on those injectors


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

lol, way to respect me for sending you a great deal dickhead.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

630cc or 1000cc


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

I personally ran 630 cc and now on Siemens 840cc, idle was good on both after alot of tweaking lol but thinking I need somewhere near 1000cc with the boost levels im trying to run


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Are those ev14's dual cone, or no? Trying to figure out why guys are going with these over the injector dynamics shizz.


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

Those are just the tried and true 550s which should be the same as the Genesis 550s. I ran them because I got them balls ass cheap and they ran flawlessly.

And to dickhead, thanks for the thank you on the deal :thumbup:

You're chokable, spin a bearing :thumbup:


----------



## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

screwball said:


> Those are just the tried and true 550s which should be the same as the Genesis 550s. I ran them because I got them balls ass cheap and they ran flawlessly.
> 
> And to dickhead, thanks for the thank you on the deal :thumbup:
> 
> You're chokable, spin a bearing :thumbup:


:thumbup:

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> Are those ev14's dual cone, or no? Trying to figure out why guys are going with these over the injector dynamics shizz.


 because they are actually matched sets and have actually been benched before matched. so your getting a truly matched set. secondly, their spray pattern is more ideal for our motors. hence why so many guys with 1k setups are switching to them. they idle far better than the ID's and they dont jsut have the same paper in the box for every set of injectors.


i will be going EV14 1000cc from five0 as well. but i will say, my matched set i got through a friend brand new, my 630's, have never had issues from day one...in my car or any other i have slapped them in.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

this thread can't go long without stupidity:facepalm:


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Eh..


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

screwball said:


> Those are just the tried and true 550s which should be the same as the Genesis 550s. I ran them because I got them balls ass cheap and they ran flawlessly.
> 
> And to dickhead, thanks for the thank you on the deal :thumbup:
> 
> You're chokable, spin a bearing :thumbup:


thanks bro, i might pick up a set of these semi-soon. :laugh:


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

:wave::heart:


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> thanks bro, i might pick up a set of these semi-soon so I can window my block. :laugh:


Fixed


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> Fixed


Lolz, now you're sounding like Richard aka formerlysilver********** 

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> Fixed


My STOCK BLOCK will be just fine :laugh: ic:



schwartzmagic said:


> Lolz, now you're sounding like Richard aka formerlysilver**********
> 
> Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


 :beer:


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

:thumbup::thumbup:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> I'm Sorry Bro


It's Ok Man


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> I love man meat


:what:


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

Don't get lippy dickhead.


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

nothing is hush hush on the internet. you believe that..your an idiot.

take of advantage of it travis, do work.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Vegeta Gti said:


> nothing is hush hush on the internet. you believe that..your an idiot.
> 
> take of advantage of it travis, do work.


like a boss :thumbup:


----------



## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

Clearly it was hush hush enough for youngblood here to not know about it. If I send something to you privately clearly I could've posted it and did not. This guy has no idea if I resell those injectors elsewhere online and still he chose to post something I sent privately TO HELP HIM OUT.

It's over so who cares..


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

:thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> You're missing the point bro. He obviously was/is sourcing them from them, and reselling them elsewhere for a profit. He passed his little secret along to you via pm; hoping that you would appreciate the tip off, and keep your lips sealed for the courtesy that he passed along to you.
> 
> Not difficult to understand or appreciate IMO. Many of us do things like this for extra cash. Shít I used to buy mk2 westmoreland golf fronts from the junkyard for $75 bucks and resell them to guys in Europe for $750-1000 USD..
> 
> Was I being selfish too? Those guys could've bought them cheaper if I passed along my junkyard contacts..


If it makes anybody feel any better I took the link down. Nobody is looking at my crap noob thread anyway except us, my apologies.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Noob 

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

:wave:
I was watching like big brother and bookmarked the page lol....
I feel you Screwball..your secret is safe with me.:thumbup::beer:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Twopnt016v said:


> :wave:
> I was watching like big brother and bookmarked the page lol....
> I feel you Screwball..your secret is safe with me.:thumbup::beer:


this LOL. bookmark'd as well soon as i saw it lmao :beer:


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

Big_Tom said:


> this LOL. bookmark'd as well soon as i saw it lmao :beer:


:beer:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

So as an update...

Nothing was completed since my last update. :laugh::thumbup: The only reason being is I need to pay off the credit card from the clutch install before I can continue. Regardless I'm trying to work out a few other things in the mean time. Such things as suspension / subframe clunking as well as the clutch problems I'm still having. Has anybody had any experience with the following...

Tyrolsport solid shift bracket bushings
http://www.tyrolsport.com/index.php?p=product&id=244

Tyrolsport solid subframe bushings
http://www.tyrolsport.com/index.php?p=product&id=241

Both of which seem like a worthy upgrade.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

dieselgeek sigma is the only worthwhile shifter upgrade in my book.


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

CAE:thumbup:


----------



## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Dude, come on... CAE is nice and all but $1,125 (E 899) for a damn shifter??? :banghead:

If you're gonna get all :screwy: like that might as well suggest SQS' sequential shifter and dog box to go with it. :laugh:


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

schwartzmagic said:


> Dude, come on... CAE is nice and all but $1,125 (E 899) for a damn shifter??? :banghead:
> 
> If you're gonna get all :screwy: like that might as well suggest SQS' sequential shifter and dog box to go with it. :laugh:


If only it wasn't my daily... oh the possibilities.


----------



## 02VWGTIVR6 (Jan 31, 2002)

travis_gli said:


> So . Has anybody had any experience with the following...
> 
> Tyrolsport solid shift bracket bushings
> http://www.tyrolsport.com/index.php?p=product&id=244
> ...


i have both in my car. both really good mods. the subframe bushings really firm things up and make the steering feel way better. shift bracket bushings tightened up the slop i still had after the short shift install. the bracket bushings make the shifter feel rock solid. good luck with your build.


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Broke down and ordered Bosch 550's last night. I also have a stage 2 BFI passenger side engine mount awaiting installation. I did get some rail spacers off somebody here on vortex but I believe I already misplaced them so I'll probably have to order another set. I also have a 2.5" to 2" 90 degree reducer elbow with T-clamps on the way for coupling to my FMIC charge pipe. The only thing left to do is the install at this point. I think to make things a bit easier on myself I'll do the fuel pump, intake manifold and injectors one day. Then everything else the next. It will either happen this weekend depending on the arrival of parts or next.


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

:thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

travis_gli said:


> Broke down and ordered Bosch 550's last night. I also have a stage 2 BFI passenger side engine mount awaiting installation. I did get some rail spacers off somebody here on vortex but I believe I already misplaced them so I'll probably have to order another set. I also have a 2.5" to 2" 90 degree reducer elbow with T-clamps on the way for coupling to my FMIC charge pipe. The only thing left to do is the install at this point. I think to make things a bit easier on myself I'll do the fuel pump, intake manifold and injectors one day. Then everything else the next. It will either happen this weekend depending on the arrival of parts or next.


 I'd talk to a tuner who is willing to do the proper injection calibration. Running them at 4 bar?


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

gdoggmoney said:


> I'd talk to a *car-tooner* who is willing to do the proper injection calibration. Running them at 4 bar?


 Fixed:beer:


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

gdoggmoney said:


> I'd talk to a tuner who is willing to do the proper injection calibration. Running them at 4 bar?


 They'll be at 4 bar with Maestro and a 630cc file. However I'm going to try running my 93 octane APR software with minor tweaks for a while until I can afford Maestro.


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Whelp, the GLI is going to Redline Performance by the end of the week for the clutch problems. We'll see what a second opinion has to say about it. Tired of this bullsh!t now, if I have to buy another clutch so be it.


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Redline performance told me they think it's the slave cylinder and would like to drop the trans. We think either S&P didn't put the new slave cylinder in when they did it or the slave cylinder is "lazy" (faulty.) Basically I'm just going to have them throw a new slave and master in it and be done with everything. If it turns out S&P didn't put the new slave in it that I gave them they get the bill and if its a faulty new slave from clutchmasters, clutchmasters gets the bill. Clutchmasters already told me they can credit for labor if it turns out to be their slave.


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Redline performance told me they think it's the slave cylinder and would like to drop the trans. We think either S&P didn't put the new slave cylinder in when they did it or the slave cylinder is "lazy" (faulty.) Basically I'm just going to have them throw a new slave and master in it and be done with everything. If it turns out S&P didn't put the new slave in it that I gave them they get the bill and if its a faulty new slave from clutchmasters, clutchmasters gets the bill. Clutchmasters already told me they can credit for labor if it turns out to be their slave.


that's cool of clutch masters :beer:


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Redline performance told me they think it's the slave cylinder and would like to drop the trans. We think either S&P didn't put the new slave cylinder in when they did it or the slave cylinder is "lazy" (faulty.) Basically I'm just going to have them throw a new slave and master in it and be done with everything. If it turns out S&P didn't put the new slave in it that I gave them they get the bill and if its a faulty new slave from clutchmasters, clutchmasters gets the bill. Clutchmasters already told me they can credit for labor if it turns out to be their slave.


I bet hell will freeze over before clutchmasters reimburses you $500 in labor to drop the tranny and install a new slave cylinder


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> I bet hell will freeze over before clutchmasters reimburses you $500 in labor to drop the tranny and install a new slave cylinder


I was sort of thinking the same thing but hey its worth a shot. :thumbup:


----------



## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

I got one of my customers reimbursed by centerforce for the same type of thing onetime...:thumbup: Good luck....


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Twopnt016v said:


> I got one of my customers reimbursed by centerforce for the same type of thing onetime...:thumbup: Good luck....


Thanks!


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Still waiting on a reply back from Redline for an estimate to drop the trans. If I don't hear back from them by the end of the week I may have to go somewhere else. I really don't understand how these garages run their business. :screwy: 

Really thought this was a winner because Scott (I believe the owner) was an extremely nice and knowledgeable individual. Hoping I hear back from them soon. I'm starting to really lose faith in all Pennsylvania garages.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Just have the dealer drop the trans I'm sure they will be happy to provide you with an estimate


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Just have the dealer drop the trans I'm sure they will be happy to provide you with an estimate


 :banghead: "That will be 1 million dollars!" :laugh:


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Still waiting on a reply back from Redline for an estimate to drop the trans. If I don't hear back from them by the end of the week I may have to go somewhere else. I really don't understand how these garages run their business. :screwy:
> 
> Really thought this was a winner because Scott (I believe the owner) was an extremely nice and knowledgeable individual. Hoping I hear back from them soon. I'm starting to really lose faith in all Pennsylvania garages.


 move to florida :beer:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

I found out Redline is getting kicked out of their current building because the actual owner decided to sell the facilities. They are currently int he process of moving. My luck is such sh!t. :banghead: 

Also I'm pretty sure the throwout bearing is shot because every once in a while when I go to pull out in first I hear a quick screetch sort of noise. Almost like a slipping belt / bad pulley bearing.


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Is my assumption correct? I mean it shouldn't be the pilot bearing or I should hear noise all the time.


----------



## burkechrs1 (Dec 1, 2008)

Just curious since I've never personally done it, but why can't you just drop the trans yourself? Are O2M's not doable in a garage?


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

burkechrs1 said:


> Just curious since I've never personally done it, but why can't you just drop the trans yourself? Are O2M's not doable in a garage?


 They are substantially heavier than 02J's. My 02J was 92lbs IIRC. The 02M is closer to 120lbs. 
But with a little bit of help, should be doable :thumbup:


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

18T_BT said:


> They are substantially heavier than 02J's. My 02J was 92lbs IIRC. The 02M is closer to 120lbs.
> But with a little bit of help, should be doable :thumbup:


 It can be done with 2 people


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> It can be done with 2 people


 I know hence why I said with a little help. 

The 02J I can drop on my chest and crawl from under the car, the extra 30lbs makes it not worth it though...


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

I'd love to drop it myself but I don't have that kind of time or patience anymore. It's hard enough keeping up with simple maintenance between my g/f's GTI and my GLI. Again I'll gladly help out a local business and have them do the work for me. My career and family are both very important to me and I devote most of my time to them. Having somebody else do the work isn't a problem.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Started gathering all my parts together tonight (unboxing, test fitting, etc.) Seemed to have misplaced my wastegate gaskets. :banghead: Once I dig them up I'm ready to go. Might break the news to the g/f that we are not going camping this weekend and rather installing a 50 trim kit. It all depends on my wastegate gaskets at this point I guess.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

i do 02M's on the floor all the time. man up and dig in!!


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Vegeta Gti said:


> i do 02M's on the floor all the time. man up and dig in!!


 I'm gonna try replacing the master first and rebleed everything before I go [email protected] deep.  Still thinking everything should be ripped apart anyway since it sounds like theres a screech owl living in my transmission. He gets pissed when I downshift.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

if the master and slave have been replaced together and your still having issues i would START with the slave to get the hard work out of the way. make sure you bleed your brakes at the same time, starting fromt he rear furthest from the ABS module.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Vegeta Gti said:


> if the master and slave have been replaced together and your still having issues i would START with the slave to get the hard work out of the way. make sure you bleed your brakes at the same time, starting fromt he rear furthest from the ABS module.


 master was never replaced. bought a motive bleeder last night. it shipped so I'm hoping it gets here by the weekend.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

very nice!!


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Cough


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Just tired of grabbing a family member and sitting them in the car then something along the lines of... 

Pump it up!... Ready?! 
Yep! 
*Open bleeder screw*... *Close bleeder screw* 
Again!... Ready!? 
Yep! 
*Open bleeder screw* ... *Close bleeder screw* 

:laugh: 



*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> Cough


 You should probably have that looked at.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

O2 pipe is getting welded up. So now I'm missing 2 wastegate gaskets and my 4 bolt o2 pipe discharge gasket. :banghead: Any ideas on where I can order some and have them here by Saturday?


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

travis_gli said:


> O2 pipe is getting welded up. So now I'm missing 2 wastegate gaskets and my 4 bolt o2 pipe discharge gasket. :banghead: Any ideas on where I can order some and have them here by Saturday?


 
You are in PA? 

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/home.php?cat= 


Bensalem PA. Who loves you?


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

gdoggmoney said:


> You are in PA?
> 
> http://www.extremepsi.com/store/home.php?cat=
> 
> ...


 :thumbup: 

My buddy recommended them but I didn't see the discharge gasket on their site. I'll shoot them an email and at the end of the day I'll call if I get the chance.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> :thumbup:
> 
> My buddy recommended them but I didn't see the discharge gasket on their site. I'll shoot them an email and at the end of the day I'll call if I get the chance.


 u talkin about the the gasket that goes between the turbine housing and the o2 pipe?


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> u talkin about the the gasket that goes between the turbine housing and the o2 pipe?


 Yup


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Nobody seems to carry the downpipe gasket. Blouch turbo told me they usually run the flange gasketless or w/ some high temp rtv. :screwy: I can't see high temp rtv holding up with that flange. Regardless I'm having Arnold send me over 2 wastegate gaskets. I'm going to bolt up the o2 pipe without a gasket and if it leaks it leaks for now. Not much I can do.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

I have a spare brand new 4 bolt GT series gasket. and I think 2 spare brand new 38mm 2 bolt wastegate gaskets. 


I'm outside Baltimore in MD. Roadtrip down for them if you are hard up. 


18T_BT is coming by this weekend to hang.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Actually just ordered everything from Extreme PSI. I found the 2.5" gasket I needed with a little help from their sales rep. Looks like I'm good to go for this weekend. :thumbup: 

I know now that I spend an extra $30 I'm gonna find the old ones lying around somewhere this weekend. It always works that way.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

don't believe that gasketless BS dude. :facepalm: that's why i made this thread... 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5331419-Everybody-W-a-CTS-Turbo-Kit 

i hope u got quality steel gaskets and not that paper $hit.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> don't believe that gasketless BS dude. :facepalm: that's why i made this thread...
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5331419-Everybody-W-a-CTS-Turbo-Kit
> 
> i hope u got quality steel gaskets and not that paper $hit.


 stainless sir, stainless. :thumbup: 

Blouch turbo is now on my sh!tlist for places to never buy anything / take my car to. :thumbup: When he told me that I was like yeah okay, and hung up the phone. He also went on to say the 38mm wastegate flanges are not popular anymore so they don't carry the gaskets for them.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

travis_gli said:


> stainless sir, stainless. :thumbup:
> 
> Blouch turbo is now on my sh!tlist for places to never buy anything / take my car to. :thumbup: When he told me that I was like yeah okay, and hung up the phone. Then he went on to say the 38mm wastegate flanges are not popular anymore so they don't carry the gaskets for them.


 Theyre douches. They wont touch off market turbos, but they send turbos out with Kamak housings....... Yeah. Right. Someone is using taiwan turbo parts and not telling.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

gdoggmoney said:


> Theyre douches. They wont touch off market turbos, but they send turbos out with Kamak housings....... Yeah. Right. Someone is using taiwan turbo parts and not telling.


 :screwy: I was also told that their garage is for "personal use only" and that they don't do any work to customers vehicles. That was a long time ago though.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> stainless sir, stainless. :thumbup:
> 
> Blouch turbo is now on my sh!tlist for places to never buy anything / take my car to. :thumbup: When he told me that I was like yeah okay, and hung up the phone. He also went on to say the 38mm wastegate flanges are not popular anymore so they don't carry the gaskets for them.


 yea, well if i were you i would not assemble or install the turbo kit 1st without those gaskets. You almost guaranteed to leak so the car will not run like you want it to anyways. plus, it could be harder than you think to install those gaskets with the turbo kit in the car. it's not that hard, but pulling the turbo, o2 pipe, and wastegate is not something i like to do on a regular basis. my exhaust putty has been holding solid since january so i havent touched any of that stuff since then :thumbup: nordlock what?


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

i don't have any gaskets exhaust side at all

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Vegeta Gti said:


> i don't have any gaskets exhaust side at all
> 
> Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


 good for you ic:


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Vegeta Gti said:


> i don't have any gaskets exhaust side at all
> 
> Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


 me neither, never used nordlocks, studs and nuts still the same as the day installed :thumbup:


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

I have not blown out gaskets since I had my stuff 0 flat. Now on the other hand, I had to add gaskets because I had a slight downpipe leak and a slight wastegate leak The manifold is good. 

The turbosmart I think started to bow a little..... 

Seals now though.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

So I'm hoping I did my manifold studs right. I slathered a bit of that high temp thread locker on them. Screwed them in as far as possible by hand then tightened two nuts together on each one and snugged them up. 

I also tried test fitting the turbo to the manifold however it seems to be very snug on the studs. I'm not sure if when they extracted the one stud they tapped the hole a bit on an angle or what. Would it be okay to ream out the turbo bolt holes a bit? I can tap it down on with a rubber mallet but I don't want to screw up the stud threads at all. 

EDIT: Does anybody have any suggestions for a BOV? I sort of want something that will attach to either my Forge DV relocation throttle body hose or the (I believe 1.5") outlet on the Eurojet charge pipe. I'm currently running a Forge splitter but I'll have no need for it soon. I'll have to measure the outlet but I could possibly just have somebody weld on a vband flange I guess.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

go with the forge evo14 valve. it has larger inlets that what our DV's come with


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Is there a banjo bolt for the oil feed line to the block? If I'm missing this I'm screwed. :banghead:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Is there a banjo bolt for the oil feed line to the block? If I'm missing this I'm screwed. :banghead:


 no banjo bolt there. you dont typically see banjo bolt setups for oil lines, that's more of a coolant line thing. not saying it can't be done tho


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

My oil feed for the turbo ran right out of the filter base. Just a braided stainless hose


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> no banjo bolt there. you dont typically see banjo bolt setups for oil lines, that's more of a coolant line thing. not saying it can't be done tho


 All I have is the oil line itself with 2 female ends. Is that all I need or will I need some sort of fitting to adapt it? 

This without the fittings... (I have one of the fittings in the turbo, are the others for other turbos?)


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

MKIII_96 said:


> My oil feed for the turbo ran right out of the filter base. Just a braided stainless hose


 mine too. right into the restrictor on top of my turbo


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

MKIII_96 said:


> My oil feed for the turbo ran right out of the filter base. Just a braided stainless hose


 :thumbup: I was so worried I know exactly what your talking about. *relief* 



Big_Tom said:


> mine too. right into the restrictor on top of my turbo


 How did you guys route the line? Same way as factory?


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## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

The one end threads onto the oil filter housing the other onto the brass 90 deg. fitting on top of the turbo.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Thanks guys, I typed up a game plan tonight and I'm going to try and bang everything out tomorrow after work. At least turbo install wise. The injectors and tuning will probably be done saturday. I'm sure I'll be finishing up around midnight tomorrow since I'll probably be starting around 7PM. I'll have the g/f grab some pics. 

Would anybody mind PM'ing me their phone number in case I run into any snags? If you give me a time I won't call or text after.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> :thumbup: I was so worried I know exactly what your talking about. *relief*
> 
> 
> 
> How did you guys route the line? Same way as factory?


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

:thumbup: Thanks! I should probably grab a bunch of zip ties. How necessary is the exhaust wrap on the o2 pipe? I think I have some lying around but not 100% sure. I'm guessing its something that can always wait just not too long. I don't want to fry anything.


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

travis_gli said:


> :thumbup: Thanks! I should probably grab a bunch of zip ties. How necessary is the exhaust wrap on the o2 pipe? I think I have some lying around but not 100% sure. I'm guessing its something that can always wait just not too long. I don't want to fry anything.


 Always a good thing to try and reduce under hood temp. Won't kill you if you don't, but it'll keep things like wiring harness, plastic rain tray, and rubber/silicone lines from getting super heated and cooled (constant extreme heat cycles deteriorate things).


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> :thumbup: Thanks! I should probably grab a bunch of zip ties. How necessary is the exhaust wrap on the o2 pipe? I think I have some lying around but not 100% sure. I'm guessing its something that can always wait just not too long. I don't want to fry anything.


 it's very necessary to wrap that o2 pipe. if you dont and you dont run a turbo blanket, you engine bay will literally be an oven. wrap that o2 pipe and get a good fitting blanket and the temps will be $hit tons lower. plus it's a pain in the ass to wrap that o2 pipe in the car, i had to re-do my exhaust wrap once on the car and it sucked. the DEI titanium wrap is what i have now and it's pretty sick. it still looks brand new after a few months of use


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> it's very necessary to wrap that o2 pipe. if you dont and you dont run a turbo blanket, you engine bay will literally be an oven. wrap that o2 pipe and get a good fitting blanket and the temps will be $hit tons lower. plus it's a pain in the ass to wrap that o2 pipe in the car, i had to re-do my exhaust wrap once on the car and it sucked. the DEI titanium wrap is what i have now and it's pretty sick. it still looks brand new after a few months of use


 Well problem being I don't have any exhaust wrap and I have about 4 hours until the install.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

travis_gli said:


> Well problem being I don't have any exhaust wrap and I have about 4 hours until the install.


 It's not a must by any means especially since you live in PA vs FL like Tom. It also depends if you hotlap your car autoX or road race etc. If it's more of a DD with a decent amount of HWY driving, it won't be a big deal. It does help if you sit in parking lot type of traffic, which I presume you do not.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

18T_BT said:


> It's not a must by any means especially since you live in PA vs FL like Tom. It also depends if you hotlap your car autoX or road race etc. If it's more of a DD with a decent amount of HWY driving, it won't be a big deal. It does help if you sit in parking lot type of traffic, which I presume you do not.


 From the different opinions I look at it one way. If I have some sitting around I will definitely wrap it. If I don't then it just goes in without. 

:laugh: ^ That sounds like a good night.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Well problem being I don't have any exhaust wrap and I have about 4 hours until the install.


 so you cant go to advance autoparts or autozone and buy some exhaust wrap? not wrapping that pipe = fail. so what happens if you take a road trip in the car? doe's PA not have a summer? you guys are always


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> so you cant go to advance autoparts or autozone and buy some exhaust wrap? not wrapping that pipe = fail. so what happens if you take a road trip in the car? doe's PA not have a summer? you guys are always


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Both of which are usually 100% fail when looking for anything like that. Don't get me wrong I will stop in and have a look around but guaranteed they don't have any.
> 
> Looks like at least one might have some in stock at least from what their site says. I'll stop in and see what I can find.
> 
> Don't worry Tom I'll wrap it so I can drive down and see you in October. :laugh:


 all of the local ones around here usually have it. i get mine from advance cause it's cheaper there


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

You betrayed me!  J/k but here is the end of the oil feed line that connects to the filter housing. I'm hoping I can run to lowes in the morning and adapt the housing to the feed line with some brass fittings. If anybody has any ideas just let me know. :thumbup: 

I had to cut this line to remove it soooo its not going back in. :laugh: 

Btw its 11:40, I got a good Miller buzz going and all the stock parts are pulled from the car. Tomorrow is all installation. Garage is a freken mess, I'm the worst at staying organized.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hmmmm, i doubt lowes will have that, good luck! check the autoparts stores, they might have that fitting behind the counter


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> You betrayed me!  J/k but here is the end of the oil feed line that connects to the filter housing. I'm hoping I can run to lowes in the morning and adapt the housing to the feed line with some brass fittings. If anybody has any ideas just let me know. :thumbup:
> 
> I had to cut this line to remove it soooo its not going back in. :laugh:
> 
> Btw its 11:40, I got a good Miller buzz going and all the stock parts are pulled from the car. Tomorrow is all installation. Garage is a freken mess, I'm the worst at staying organized.


 oil filter adapter to a -4AN would be the correct way to do it but hey to each their own


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## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

Trav the long braided oil line that came with your kit will connect to your oil filter housing. You don't need any fittings to run that oil line. Just thread it into your filter housing. The end with the 90deg is the side that attaches to the turbo.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Sooo I'm guessing my BFI mounts are making the turbo hit the firewall? I guess I really don't have a choice but to let it go. 










WTF :banghead:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Sooo I'm guessing my BFI mounts are making the turbo hit the firewall? I guess I really don't have a choice but to let it go.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 i have BFI mounts and mine doesnt hit the firewall. it's not even really close


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## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

If you clock the turbo can you get a lil more clearance?


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## AmIdYfReAk (Nov 8, 2006)

Seems like someone installed the inserts incorrect.


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## xxsur3shotxx (Sep 24, 2009)

travis_gli said:


> Sooo I'm guessing my BFI mounts are making the turbo hit the firewall? I guess I really don't have a choice but to let it go.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 mine was hitting upon install even with the stock mounts. You will not be able to let it go, it is annoying, and could possibly cause the manifold to crack from the constant impulse of the turbo bouncing off the firewall. I took a monster screwdriver (thick, square shaft) and put it across the top of the turbo and "convinced" the firewall to give it some more clearance. A little bit goes a long way, you just need a bit more than you have now.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

yeah, i wouldn't want to but ur gonna hafta hammer the firewall a bit. u dont want to let ur turbo sit on the wall like that, it will vibrate like a mofo and you'll probably end up breaking bolts off in the head or mani.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

+1 for kinetic fitment :thumbup:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

So far I'm worried about a couple things... 

First being oil leaks. I used heavy duty teflon tape on the filter housing and pressure sensor but I didn't use it in the AN fittings. I'm hoping I didn't screw myself by doing so. Also the bolt and copper washer I used to plug the stock hole where the banjo bolt was run or the k03s feed line. 

Another thing I'm a bit worried about are my injectors. All of which do not have the proper connectors for the stock harness. They do however connect up fine just don't click into place into the harness. I also lost a clip off of the one injector so I'm afraid it won't hold pressure. 

Finally I'm worried about the open dump on my apr tune. It worries me that it's not going I see this in the exhaust flow and cause my mixtures to go whacky.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Made some room with the crow bar.  










Almost ready to go. I gotta run to Lowes and grab a nut for the O2 pipe since I'm missing one as well as run to AutoZone and grab some coolant. I'm a bit short. 










Thank you AP Tuning for the fitting! :thumbup:


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> So far I'm worried about a couple things...
> 
> First being oil leaks. I used heavy duty teflon tape on the filter housing and pressure sensor but I didn't use it in the AN fittings. I'm hoping I didn't screw myself by doing so. Also the bolt and copper washer I used to plug the stock hole where the banjo bolt was run or the k03s feed line.
> 
> ...


 You don't need to use teflon on AN fittings. I never have and haven't had any issues. AN fittings for fuel lines though have use viton o-rings or thread sealant.

Your injector clip issue should be a non issue. I lost one of mine too. The rail bolts down to the manifold and will keep the injector in place.

You might have an issue with the injector adapters. Are you running bosch 550s or 630s?

Open dump shouldn't be an issue... I ran my bt open dump on my uni stg1+ for a few months before I got the uni830 file with no issues. Just run off wastegate boost, assuming its a 10 psi spring, until you get your software.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Do the kinetic instructions include a step where it says take a crowbar to the firewall :screwy:


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## xxsur3shotxx (Sep 24, 2009)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Do the kinetic instructions include a step where it says take a crowbar to the firewall :screwy:


 instructions? :screwy:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

I'm running two springs for 20 psi. Call me brave. 

I ran across one major issue on first start hence why my car is sitting at the garage right now because I ran out of time to work on it. The oil return line was leaking a fair amount of oil at the turbo. So I'm thinking the line will need replaced. Also from what I was told it's blowing a small amount of smoke on gear shifts. Not a major concern as I was contemplating replacing the precision down the road anyway. 

I didn't have time to get the Walbro in or fine tune anything however it fired right up. Idle was a bit rough but nowhere near bad. It drove nice with no problems other than those I listed. I'm calling it a semi success.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Please tell me you primed that Turbo before startup Travis


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> I'm running two springs for 20 psi. Call me brave.
> 
> I ran across one major issue on first start hence why my car is sitting at the garage right now because I ran out of time to work on it. The oil return line was leaking a fair amount of oil at the turbo. So I'm thinking the line will need replaced. Also from what I was told it's blowing a small amount of smoke on gear shifts. Not a major concern as I was contemplating replacing the precision down the road anyway.
> 
> I didn't have time to get the Walbro in or fine tune anything however it fired right up. Idle was a bit rough but nowhere near bad. It drove nice with no problems other than those I listed. I'm calling it a semi success.


 do you have an oil return gasket in there? also, no surprise it smokes between shifts it's a PTE


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Big_Tom said:


> do you have an oil return gasket in there? also, no surprise it smokes between shifts it's a PTE


 Come on Tom... Enough with the PTE smoking crap... I'm almost at 2 years with mine. No smoking whatsoever. Blah 

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

schwartzmagic said:


> Come on Tom... Enough with the PTE smoking crap... I'm almost at 2 years with mine. No smoking whatsoever. Blah
> 
> Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


 don't get mad :facepalm: i see mad PTE's smoking a lot of times they do it's a fact. ic:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Didn't know I was suppose to prime it... it's a used turbo... :banghead: I did crank it a little and let off before actually turning it completely over. However probably not near enough to actually prime it. I feel like a total [email protected] at this point. Could that have caused enough damage for the turbo to blow oil? 

It appears to be leaking somewhere in the AN fitting to the turbo. I ran out of time yesterday so she's sitting at the garage waiting for them to have a look. If it keeps smoking I'm buying a Garrett or having it rebuilt. 

EDIT: After reading a few different opinions over the intertubez I feel comfortable that me not priming it isn't the cause of it blowing oil. If anything its because its a used Precision. I won't get into the details that I have read.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

installer error


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> installer error


 Being that its a used turbo there was still oil in there from the previous install. I doubt it would have caused that much harm. I'm going to run it and if it gets worse probably pull it and have it rebuilt.


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

In the future always prime the turbo no matter new or used.:thumbup:


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

Twopnt016v said:


> In the future always prime the turbo no matter new or used.:thumbup:


 Used precision though is meh been there lll


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

We all make mistakes.


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

codergfx said:


> Used precision though is meh been there lll


 Its best to prime...period.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Not terribly sure on turbo priming logic. 

Shut your car off, pull your oil feed line. Does oil pour out of the filter housing and back out the line? Not on any of the BT cars I have owned. 

Now that doesn't mean there is not some in the line left further down where it doesn't curve, up and over but I bet some drains back. 

I've had my oil line off at least 6-7 time and it never leaks massive amounts, on the turbo side maybe a drop or two. Same for the oil filter housing side...... 

Food for thought. Oh and my 3076 does not smoke, has no play and is peachy keen still. 

By the time it fires up, after a few good cranks you will have oil in that line. Someone start their car with the line off the filter housing and take a video


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

T-Boy said:


> Always a good thing to try and reduce under hood temp. Won't kill you if you don't, but it'll keep things like wiring harness, plastic rain tray, and rubber/silicone lines from getting super heated and cooled (constant extreme heat cycles deteriorate things).


 Actually it can. Enough glowing red turbo will set off the firewall insulation blanket material BEHIND the aluminum layer. 


Just ask how I know!


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

gdoggmoney said:


> Actually it can. Enough glowing red turbo will set off the firewall insulation blanket material BEHIND the aluminum layer.
> 
> 
> Just ask how I know!


 Well anything is possible, but for the majority of people (at least from past experiences) that didn't wrap haven't had too many issues. Can oil drips cause a fire? Sure just ask Stu... I've seen stock cars catch fire also, but most have been pretty isolated incidents and not too common.


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Updated the signature. :thumbup: 

Also what should I do about my injectors? The connectors are completely different but they still fit in one another and make full contact. Do they make some sort of adapter? 

EDIT: I believe I need these? 
http://www.034motorsport.com/fuel-i...ter-bosch-jetronic-to-uscar-ev14-p-20128.html


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Being that its a used turbo there was still oil in there from the previous install. I doubt it would have caused that much harm. I'm going to run it and if it gets worse probably pull it and have it rebuilt.


 I wasn't being serious. If the turbo was bad it would smoke all the time not just between shifts


----------



## STOICH (Jun 21, 2010)

travis_gli said:


> Updated the signature. :thumbup:
> 
> Also what should I do about my injectors? The connectors are completely different but they still fit in one another and make full contact. Do they make some sort of adapter?
> 
> ...


 Yep - USCAR > Jetronic adapters for the 550s.


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Soooo... you don't really save money getting the 550's. :screwy:


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Soooo... you don't really save money getting the 550's. :screwy:


 No just headaches


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

I wouldn't say headaches. It idled like a champ on first start up. And I only ran it for maybe 2 minutes.


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Proper spray pattern = one less thing to tune around.


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

I have two sets of 630's. Both drive entirely different and idle entirely different on the same tune. 


630's vary highly in response time, dead time and output for a given known pulsewidth near and under 2ms.


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

grab some adapters for the injectors travis. :thumbup:


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

gdoggmoney said:


> I have two sets of 630's. Both drive entirely different and idle entirely different on the same tune.
> 
> 
> 630's vary highly in response time, dead time and output for a given known pulsewidth near and under 2ms.


 So what you're saying is all 630's should be purchased from a vendor that flow matches


----------



## xxsur3shotxx (Sep 24, 2009)

groggory said:


> So what you're saying is all 630's should be purchased from a vendor that flow matches


 I bought mine flow matched from Arnold. Idle is.......okay........ better now that i went back to the MAF


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> grab some adapters for the injectors travis. :thumbup:


 Already purchased 4 from 032. :thumbup: Really expensive for what they are but at least the connectors won't slip out while I'm driving.


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Alright CTS guys, it looks like a need a new oil return line and my best bet to get it fast is to have one made so I need some specs. Are the fittings -10 AN? Is the bottom fitting on a 45* angle? And how long is the line or how long should the line be for proper fitment?


----------



## burkechrs1 (Dec 1, 2008)

A buddy of mine out here had a 2871r with a unitronics 630cc tune. Idled like crap for a year. Swapped in 550cc at 4bar and idled like a dream.


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Alright CTS guys, it looks like a need a new oil return line and my best bet to get it fast is to have one made so I need some specs. Are the fittings -10 AN? Is the bottom fitting on a 45* angle? And how long is the line or how long should the line be for proper fitment?


 I had to get a new one for mine, wanna say it was 21" of hose give or take and then the 45* fitting to where it bolts to the oil pan. Ordered mine from CTS and had it in DC from Canada in 5 days


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

weenerdog3443 said:


> I had to get a new one for mine, wanna say it was 21" of hose give or take and then the 45* fitting to where it bolts to the oil pan. Ordered mine from CTS and had it in DC from Canada in 5 days


 5 days won't cut it unfortunately. Hopefully I can find a local business that will make me one. Let's say 2 feet of hose to be safe.


----------



## Aronc (Jan 30, 2006)

most local hydraulic shops can make you a return line. look for a local hydraulic supply co. store or Aeroquip. they can crimp on the ends and everything. Not sure about the cost tho.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

One of my clients, Tennco, Inc. is going to make me one for around $36. :thumbup: I just need to make sure I have the correct length of hose. If it's 21" for sure I will have one made immediately.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

travis_gli said:


> One of my clients, Tennco, Inc. is going to make me one for around $36. :thumbup: I just need to make sure I have the correct length of hose. If it's 21" for sure I will have one made immediately.


 why don't you measure the line you currently have?


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

18T_BT said:


> why don't you measure the line you currently have?


 Don't have it, got through to CTS and he said it measures 21".


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Now that my head doesn't hurt anymore from calling everybody and their brother back to the basics. Around what RPM should I expect the 50 trim to spool to about 20 psi?


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Now that my head doesn't hurt anymore from calling everybody and their brother back to the basics. Around what RPM should I expect the 50 trim to spool to about 20 psi?


 I can let you know tonight after I get mine back together.


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

weenerdog3443 said:


> I can let you know tonight after I get mine back together.


 Problem being is that I got on the throttle a little too hard while taking it over to the garage Sunday afternoon and I only seen about 6 PSI but that was at a low RPM like 3k to 3.5k. So I'm wondering if thats normal or if the wastegate is not sealing against the manifold properly. If it didn't I should hear an exhaust leak correct?


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

22" travis


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> 22" travis


 Called them back and told them 22" :thumbup:  That extra inch will make it easier to keep away from the downpipe.


----------



## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Problem being is that I got on the throttle a little too hard while taking it over to the garage Sunday afternoon and I only seen about 6 PSI but that was at a low RPM like 3k to 3.5k. So I'm wondering if thats normal or if the wastegate is not sealing against the manifold properly. If it didn't I should hear an exhaust leak correct?


 Yeah, that sound right. You probably won't see 20psi until after 4-ish. If its not sealing then yes you will hear an exhaust leak.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

schwartzmagic said:


> Yeah, that sound right. You probably won't see 20psi until after 4-ish. If its not sealing then yes you will hear an exhaust leak.
> 
> Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


 Awesome. :thumbup:


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

She'll be on the road this afternoon. :thumbup:


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

travis_gli said:


> She'll be on the road this afternoon. :thumbup:


 :thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

What precision turbo is actually used in the CTS 50 trim kit? 

EDIT: Nvm I believe its the 3231E


----------



## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

Trav you will have about 5psi round 3.5k up until 4k. Until 4k it will go no higher. But after 4k it climbs quick. 20psi should be about 4.5k.


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> What precision turbo is actually used in the CTS 50 trim kit?
> 
> EDIT: Nvm I believe its the 3231E


 there are tons of pte 50 trims. 5031e, 3231e, 5431e, etc... i think thats funny cause there's only one garrett t3/t4e lol


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

steve-o 16v GLI said:


> Trav you will have about 5psi round 3.5k up until 4k. Until 4k it will go no higher. But after 4k it climbs quick. 20psi should be about 4.5k.


 So your saying in 500RPM I'm going to go from daily driving to holy sh!t. :laugh: 

Whats a safe rev limiter RPM for the stock head?


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

travis_gli said:


> So your saying in 500RPM I'm going to go from daily driving to holy sh!t. :laugh:
> 
> *absolutely*
> 
> ...


 
wait until you turn the boost up, you should have someone come with you and take a picture of your face the first time you feel it rip :thumbup: I call it a permagrin


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

18T_BT said:


> wait until you turn the boost up, you should have someone come with you and take a picture of your face the first time you feel it rip :thumbup: I call it a permagrin


 :laugh: 

T-minus roughly 3 hours until I get her back. I'm that excited I could sh!t.


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

18T_BT said:


> wait until you turn the boost up, you should have someone come with you and take a picture of your face the first time you feel it rip :thumbup: I call it a permagrin


 Yessir. This last weekend I hadn't driven the Jetta in a week or so, instant smile on my face and permagrin.


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Sooooo here's where I'm at... 

On the way home I experienced a few things... 

First being rough idle. Basically I get the "cammed" affect then smooth then "cammed" then smooth, etc etc. 

Second being compressor surge type of flutter when I let off the throttle under boost, I'm thinking this is the forge splitter but I'm uncertain. 

Third thing happens under full boost at 22psi. When this is hit I hear a loud blow off crack and pressure releases. I'm guessing this is the wastegate and open dump I'm hearing. Something I'm not quite use to. 

Then to top everything off I'm pretty sure my girls radiator exploded on the way home in her GTI. Coolant everywhere and the radiator is hanging down on the one side. Not sure what they did when they replaced it a few months back but obviously something wasn't right. :screwy: 

EDIT: Oh and another thing. I was expecting a loud whistle from the turbo when driving but I don't hear anything... My k03s was hugely noticeable when driving. This precision... I hear nothing.


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

1)you need a bigger bov/dv. the inlet on the splitter is not large enough for a big turbo. 
2) yeah u prob are hearing wastegate open at full boost. 
3) big turbo's generally dont make a buncha noise when ur parking lot driving or driving slow. they make noise when they make boost  50 trims in particular are pretty quiet out of boost. it's another story once you get it riled up


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Thanks for clearing everything up.  Call me the BT amateur. You think I'll be happy with the EVO14 forge valve or should I go with something else? I need to get something with a hose type flange on it since thats what the eurojet piping already has integrated. I'll have to plug forge throttle body hose. I was also thinking about possibly just cutting out that section and coupling in a section with a prewelded flange on it. Thoughts? 

I logged block 020 with vagscope and I'm not seeing past 6 degrees of timing at WOT so I think I'm good in the aspect of not blowing up my motor. :laugh: I do believe I hit limp mode once though so I may need to do the diode mod at least for my APR tune. 

However I've been trying to work out the rough idle as well as fuel trims. On block 032 I'm seeing 0 for idle and -18 for partial throttle. Now in order to adjust this I adjusted channel 2 and 3 (increasing and decreasing loads) by subtracting 8 from them. so I'm now around 92% instead of 100%. By reading the guide that was posted earlier I think this was the right doing but I'm not positive. I do not see block 032 moving at all from -18. Even when I have it open and I'm driving it stays solid at -18. Any ideas? 

I also need a turbo timer. :thumbup:


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Thanks for clearing everything up.  Call me the BT amateur. You think I'll be happy with the EVO14 forge valve or should I go with something else? I need to get something with a hose type flange on it since thats what the eurojet piping already has integrated. I'll have to plug forge throttle body hose. I was also thinking about possibly just cutting out that section and coupling in a section with a prewelded flange on it. Thoughts?
> 
> I logged block 020 with vagscope and I'm not seeing past 6 degrees of timing at WOT so I think I'm good in the aspect of not blowing up my motor. :laugh: I do believe I hit limp mode once though so I may need to do the diode mod at least for my APR tune.
> 
> ...


 the forge evo14 valve is sick. it has a hose inlet like the other forge dv/bov's but it's larger, whatever size the evo's use (1.25" IIRC). if i ever do change valves, i'd switch to that 1. not sure whats up with ur idle. get a big turbo tune


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

also, you don't need a turbo timer. i havent ever had one. but then again, you have a pte turbo so maybe it couldnt hurt :laugh:


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

On the plus side I'm not seeing or smelling any burnt oil since I got it back.


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

you could also go with the Tial Alpha Q or the QR. those will get allllllllll the pressure out


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

we don't need turbo timers on our cars, the car automatically runs coolant after it's shut off 
not to mention that you can sit in your car if you are so inclined to cool it down
or be smarter about it and don't beat on it right before you go park it


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

18T_BT said:


> we don't need turbo timers on our cars, the car automatically runs coolant after it's shut off
> not to mention that you can sit in your car if you are so inclined to cool it down
> or be smarter about it and don't beat on it right before you go park it


I was more worried about "coking" the journal bearing in the turbo. I have no liquid cooling turbo wise anymore. I'm sure the oil helps "cool" it to a certain extent but that isn't its purpose.


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

You sent a payment of $816.00 USD to Eurodyne Canada










Isn't there a maestro forum somewhere that users share their tunes?


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

travis_gli said:


> You sent a payment of $816.00 USD to Eurodyne Canada
> 
> 
> 
> ...


LOL. Congratulations bro:beer:

Now go read the maestro thread. Don't worry. Only the last 30 or so pages are relevant. :laugh:


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> LOL. Congratulations bro:beer:
> 
> Now go read the maestro thread. Don't worry. Only the last 30 or so pages are relevant. :laugh:


Let me go grab my Nook...  :banghead:

:laugh:


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Ya.. the first hundred or so pages are just guys bitching, and trying to get the dongle to work:screwy::laugh:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

If they are old enough to drive and still can't figure out how to get their dongle to work they should probably see somebody. :sly:

Just ordered the EVO14 valve and some couplers from silicone intakes. :thumbup:

You know I'm really thinking about just blowing away my APR tune, if I don't I'm going to end up spending another $100 on another ECU and sit on my stock APR ECU for months if not years. Can I made a backup of it with Maestro?


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

travis_gli said:


> You know I'm really thinking about just blowing away my APR tune, if I don't I'm going to end up spending another $100 on another ECU and sit on my stock APR ECU for months if not years. Can I made a backup of it with Maestro?


 Sell it. Maestro doesn't work like that, and im 99% sure that it won't flash onto an Apr encrypted ecu.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

I'm pretty sure Arnold has a stack of stock ECUs ready to be flashed


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> Sell it. Maestro doesn't work like that, and im 99% sure that it won't flash onto an Apr encrypted ecu.



I wouldn't see why not I mean regardless of it being encrypted you are still reading a bunch of 1's and 0's. The encryption is so the tuned values cannot be read by the naked eye. I guess its a question to shoot over to Maestro. Btw I'm in no means saying your wrong I just want to know for sure before spending the extra money.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Somebody sell me a [email protected] AWP ecu! :banghead:


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Aww will work as well:thumbup:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> Aww will work as well:thumbup:


I found one :thumbup:


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> Sell it. Maestro doesn't work like that, and im 99% sure that it won't flash onto an Apr encrypted ecu.


 When I contacted Eurodyn and asked about my APR hard chip, I was told for $50 they can replace the hard chip for a stock and then flash their program on.



formerly silveratljetta said:


> I'm pretty sure Arnold has a stack of stock ECUs ready to be flashed


:thumbup:



travis_gli said:


> I wouldn't see why not I mean regardless of it being encrypted you are still reading a bunch of 1's and 0's. The encryption is so the tuned values cannot be read by the naked eye. I guess its a question to shoot over to Maestro. Btw I'm in no means saying your wrong I just want to know for sure before spending the extra money.


Read ^^



travis_gli said:


> Somebody sell me a [email protected] AWP ecu! :banghead:


If you don't want the down time, contact Arnold.


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Sweet!

Did you order maestro yet? Chris will send you an immobilizer defeat code to enter in the eurodyne flash client to get you up and running.:thumbup:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> I wouldn't see why not I mean regardless of it being encrypted you are still reading a bunch of 1's and 0's. The encryption is so the tuned values cannot be read by the naked eye. I guess its a question to shoot over to Maestro. Btw I'm in no means saying your wrong I just want to know for sure before spending the extra money.


it's gonna be pretty hard for you to do anything with that ECU unless you have the key(s) to decrypt it. in all honesty, when files are encrypted your computer doesn't even really know whats going on inside until you decrypt it. if you try to manipulate en encrypted file/folder you won't get very far until it's decrypted.

also i know of a local guy selling his maestro setup if you want me to look into his ecu for you


----------



## burkechrs1 (Dec 1, 2008)

Whoa whoa whoa. If your ecu is already flashed with another tune company(say unitronic) you can't reflash maestro over it. That kind of ruins my plans of drive my car til Friday install BT Saturday and Sunday and drive it to work Monday :/ someone clarify!


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> it's gonna be pretty hard for you to do anything with that ECU unless you have the key(s) to decrypt it. in all honesty, when files are encrypted your computer doesn't even really know whats going on inside until you decrypt it. if you try to manipulate en encrypted file/folder you won't get very far until it's decrypted.
> 
> also i know of a local guy selling his maestro setup if you want me to look into his ecu for you


Coming from the IT field, regardless if it's encrypted or not it can still be copied bit by bit. Encrypted information is still data and can still be copied it. My ECU is not "hard chipped". Regardless of what APR tells people they do not "hard chip" their software anymore. That hasn't been done for years. It all depends on Maestro's software capabilities. If the application was made to read only the settings when backing up the ECU then yes it will fail immediately as APR's settings are encrypted. IF and only IF Maestro's software was programmed to read the ECU in its entirety then it should be able to backup encrypted tunes. My best bet is in order to actually read an ECU bit by bit you must bench connect it using special hardware rather than in the car via OBD2 port. Regardless I have another ECU on the way. :thumbup:


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

burkechrs1 said:


> Whoa whoa whoa. If your ecu is already flashed with another tune company(say unitronic) you can't reflash maestro over it. That kind of ruins my plans of drive my car til Friday install BT Saturday and Sunday and drive it to work Monday :/ someone clarify!


You can run your current tune with your BT setup until you get some other software and a possibly a new ECU.


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Told you ill have to whip out the nook to read all that sh!t 

Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk 2


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

travis_gli said:


> Told you ill have to whip out the nook to read all that sh!t
> 
> Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk 2


LOL! Nice


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> LOL! Nice


I thought there was an entire forum (website) dedicated to maestro where people share their tunes...?

Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

travis_gli said:


> I thought there was an entire forum (website) dedicated to maestro where people share their tunes...?
> 
> Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk 2


When you get your "maestro suite" you'll have access to the eurodyne forum on eurodyne.ca

Iirc guys do share some tunes on there. This forum's maestro thread has more useful info tho


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> When you get your "maestro suite" you'll have access to the eurodyne forum on eurodyne.ca
> 
> Iirc guys do share some tunes on there. This forum's maestro thread has more useful info tho


That's not the forum I came across though a while back. This one was black and red if I remember correctly and it had an @ssload of information. I'm gonna have to dig back through my emails to see if I can find a link.

Had a dream last night my wastegate stuck closed and my boost gauge wrapped around...


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Found it!

http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

You thinking of NetMofo?


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

l88m22vette said:


> You thinking of NetMofo?


Yup I just realized not maestro but still some good information. :thumbup:


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Is there no decent DIY's for installing the Walbro inline pump on a Jetta? I know alot of guys slap them right in the engine bay next to the timing belt cover but not idea where to really begin. :screwy:


----------



## AmIdYfReAk (Nov 8, 2006)

Derp:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...run-on-E85-FlexFuel-ethanol-(in-4-easy-steps)

Ignore the corn parts... :thumbup::laugh:


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

AmIdYfReAk said:


> Derp:
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...run-on-E85-FlexFuel-ethanol-(in-4-easy-steps)
> 
> Ignore the corn parts... :thumbup::laugh:


My god I completely forgot about that DIY. :banghead: thank you!


----------



## STOICH (Jun 21, 2010)

My in-line is strapped to the fender, right above where the N80 valve would be. I simply cut the stock feed line so it would reach the inlet of the pump, then ran a new fuel line from the outlet, back to the rail. 

Then wire it in. I tapped into the accessory-on terminal under the dash for the signal to the relay. I'm in the garage now, so I could grab some pictures for you if you want.


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Done.










Pulled a few codes also...

Misfire cylinder 1
Implausible signal from N249
and Overboost detected (most likely when I hit limp mode the other night)


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

:beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

What's the recommended plug gap?


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

.024-.025 generally


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> :beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:


this



*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> .024-.025 generally


i run .026"


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Wondering if thats where my cylinder 1 misfire came from.


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

travis_gli said:


> Wondering if thats where my cylinder 1 misfire came from.


Its very likely.


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Welp my used ECU got here before my dongle... no 4th of July fireworks for this guy. :banghead:


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Sucks man


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

make your own interface


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)




----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


>


h8r


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Big_Tom said:


> h8r


Fer daizzzzzz


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

I keep having dreams of overboosting and insane boost spikes... it's like my nightmares. :laugh:

Sooo instead of this happening what can I do to prevent it? Currently I'm just running the wastegate to the compressor housing. I'm guessing my best bet would be to put in a bleed type MBC in between?


----------



## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

No on the bleed type valve trav. Ive heard nothing good of them on a 1.8t. You want a ball and spring style. Only problem with running a mbc is part throttle in the lower gears is a lil weird. Kinda on/offish. I just did the diode mod and mbc install on my tt due to the n75 going bad and causing erratic boost and 20psi spikes!! So I kept hitting limp mode. Installed the diode and set the controller to about 17psi. No more limp mode. But if your in second and go half throttle it will shoot up to full boost quick. You gotta be easy with the pedal.


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

Definitely stay away from bleeder mbc's. Only go for a ball and spring type mbc. You will be fine running wastegate pressure and shouldn't have any overboost issues what so ever. I would run around (running waste gate pressure)with a quick spooling hybrid and have no issues of overboost or spike past 10psi. If you do that could indicate improperly sized WG.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

maybe on a k03 you will have PT issues...i wouldn't install an MBC, if your WG is gut'n'tight it shouldn't have problems...it's also the reason you have your boost gauge


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

i have a bleed style MBC i've been running for about 3 years. i think ball/spring is better, but this isn't too bad. my spike is 1-2 psi at most sometimes, but usually it's right on the money. my part throttle has never been affected by the MBC, only exhaust leaks, boost/vac leaks, bad sensors, etc from what i've experienced over the years. i might throw on a perrin ball/spring MBC one of these days, i've always likeed those better than turbo xs


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## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

True my part throttle funkiness could be something else brought out by the increase in boost maybe. But I didn't have that issue before doing the mbc install.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Bleed type MBC with a MAF, and dual diverter valves. No issues here with spikes. Never been above 25psi or so.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

From page 7 in the manual...



> B. Manual Boost Controller Method “bleeder valve”
> Install boost signal hose from the turbocharger compressor cover hose barb, to the bottom of a plastic
> Tee. Install one hose from one port of the Tee, to the bottom banjo barb port of the wastegate can. Install
> a second hose from the other side of the Tee, into the inlet of your manual boost controller. (Refer to
> ...


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

travis_gli said:


> From page 7 in the manual...


You got it! That's how mine is routed. I used brass fittings, with teflon tape on the threads and t'd it off the bottom of the pressure regulator inlet ---> bottom port of gate. Then regulator outlet to top port.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

If I'm thinking correctly a bleeder type design will help prevent any boost spikes while a spring and ball design is solely meant to control boost.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

gdoggmoney said:


> You got it! That's how mine is routed. I used brass fittings, with teflon tape on the threads and t'd it off the bottom of the pressure regulator inlet ---> bottom port of gate. Then regulator outlet to top port.


thats not how mine is routed, but i guess that works too. theres more than one way to build a bridge :beer:


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

There is more then one way to skin a cat but a ball and spring is better... period.
Your using your wastegate as a boost controller, not the mbc. The mbc is only gonna be there for a safety net. IF a boost spike were to happen you would want a ball and spring mbc there to work quickly to combat the spike, bleeder valves are not the best at that. Do some research on mbc's and you will find while some bleeder valves work a ball and spring wins the game everytime no matter what the application. I recommend the boostvalve...


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Twopnt016v said:


> There is more then one way to skin a cat but a ball and spring is better... period.
> Your using your wastegate as a boost controller, not the mbc. The mbc is only gonna be there for a safety net. IF a boost spike were to happen you would want a ball and spring mbc there to work quickly to combat the spike, bleeder valves are not the best at that. Do some research on mbc's and you will find while some bleeder valves work a ball and spring wins the game everytime no matter what the application. I recommend the boostvalve...


So the boostvalve set up at figure b above? Or differently...


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

gdoggmoney said:


> You got it! That's how mine is routed. I used brass fittings, with teflon tape on the threads and t'd it off the bottom of the pressure regulator inlet ---> bottom port of gate. Then regulator outlet to top port.


that's how mine is as well :thumbup:


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## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

You can set it up like pictured or bypass the n75 and run a line directly from your boost source to one of the wastegate side ports and leave the top port open. The idea of using a tee is that if your mbc gets clogged or fails somehow and no pressure can get through that way you still have a tee inline to run to the other port for a direct pressure source so you dont boost to the moon! It's a failsafe. But I had mine done with only the one side port being used. I wasn't really worried about it and the less lines running in my bay the better IMO.


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## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

And with that setup on your kit I had zero spikes and held 20psi to redline just fine with 14lbs of spring tension. I read you added more spring so that may have changed things a bit.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

steve-o 16v GLI said:


> And with that setup on your kit I had zero spikes and held 20psi to redline just fine with 14lbs of spring tension. I read you added more spring so that may have changed things a bit.


Yeh I'll probably have to pull it off and reconfigure the springs. I have no idea how it runs right now because I have to feather it while I wait for my software to get here. Or can I just use the MBC to control the pressure without removing the wastegate.


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## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

You can use it to raise your boost but it can't take it lower than the waste gate spring pressure.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

f*ck 

should've left it the way you had it. :thumbup:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Forge Evo valve definately did the trick, no more flutter. As for the misfires though they seem to be getting worse. My plugs are fine so I'm going to blame it on the coil packs. Any suggestions?

EDIT: http://www.intengineering.com/integ...pter-set-for-1-8t-with-fsi-tsi-coilpacks.html

I was thinking about these but in the title they say with coilpacks and then at the end of the description its said coilpacks sold separately. :screwy:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Forge Evo valve definately did the trick, no more flutter. As for the misfires though they seem to be getting worse. My plugs are fine so I'm going to blame it on the coil packs. Any suggestions?
> 
> EDIT: http://www.intengineering.com/integ...pter-set-for-1-8t-with-fsi-tsi-coilpacks.html
> 
> I was thinking about these but in the title they say with coilpacks and then at the end of the description its said coilpacks sold separately. :screwy:


LOL of course the coilpacks would be sold separetly from the adapters :facepalm:  also,:thumbup::beer: on the forge evo valve. they are sick looking and they sound sick too :heart:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

It's definitely worth the cash. I'm wondering where the hell my Eurodyne dongle is... its been a week and a half. :screwy: I never even got a tracking number from them.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Forge Evo valve definately did the trick, no more flutter. As for the misfires though they seem to be getting worse. My plugs are fine so I'm going to blame it on the coil packs. Any suggestions?
> 
> EDIT: http://www.intengineering.com/integ...pter-set-for-1-8t-with-fsi-tsi-coilpacks.html
> 
> I was thinking about these but in the title they say with coilpacks and then at the end of the description its said coilpacks sold separately. :screwy:


If the coilpacks cost about $80 by themselves why would you expect to get adapters and coilpacks together for $80 :screwy:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> It's definitely worth the cash. I'm wondering where the hell my Eurodyne dongle is... its been a week and a half. :screwy: I never even got a tracking number from them.


:beer:

Eurodyne is slacking tho


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> If the coilpacks cost about $80 by themselves why would you expect to get adapters and coilpacks together for $80 :screwy:


I don't expect to get everything for $80 I'm just wondering why they would say in the title "with coilpacks".


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> I don't expect to get everything for $80 I'm just wondering why they would say in the title "with coilpacks".


It is "with coil packs" for another $80 lol. That's just IE marketing for ya


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> It is "with coil packs" for another $80 lol. That's just IE marketing for ya


Reminds me more of ECS "marketing" :screwy:


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> It is "with coil packs" for another $80 lol. That's just IE marketing for ya


You mean IE raping

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Emailed Eurodyne earlier today still waiting on my username and password so I can download the software. :banghead: For $800 I really wish this process would go a bit quicker.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Emailed Eurodyne earlier today still waiting on my username and password so I can download the software. :banghead: For $800 I really wish this process would go a bit quicker.


i heard dat :beer:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

They're probably reading this and going muahahaha while rubbing their hands together. My post has just made me a week more out of schedule. :laugh:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> They're probably reading this and going muahahaha while rubbing their hands together. My post has just made me a week more out of schedule. :laugh:


:laugh:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Now that I have my username and password it doesn't work. Good god. :banghead:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Now that I have my username and password it doesn't work. Good god. :banghead:


:facepalm: is it case sensitive lol? nah, really tho that sux man. thats buying a new part and when it gets to you it's already damaged :thumbdown:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Why don't they just send the username and password to you right after your order? :screwy: This could have been worked out in the week and a half it took to ship the thing.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Why don't they just send the username and password to you right after your order? :screwy: This could have been worked out in the week and a half it took to ship the thing.


you are right. they can be sent via email or something :thumbdown:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Does anybody have Maestro that could help me out? I mean am I suppose to just log in and then get a downloads section or what do I actually do because everytime I log in it gives me a bunch of blank fields to update my profile and tells me my account is not verified. Then when I tell it to resend the email I never get it. :banghead:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Finally got in to the downloads section. Their email server must have not been relaying emails properly from their website or some sh!t. I had him register my other email address and I just got the verification emails on both email accounts.  I should have my base tune to them by end of day.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Finally got in to the downloads section. Their email server must have not been relaying emails properly from their website or some sh!t. I had him register my other email address and I just got the verification emails on both email accounts.  I should have my base tune to them by end of day.


:beer: let the boost begin lol


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> :beer: let the boost begin lol


As long as my coil packs hold up, sure. :laugh:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Just got done reviewing the VVT thread  Tom are you still running VVT? I mean are there really any benefits with the 50 trim?


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Just got done reviewing the VVT thread  Tom are you still running VVT? I mean are there really any benefits with the 50 trim?


i had it disabled for the entire time i was BT. I just had it re-enabled about a month ago, and I like the car much better w/ vvt that without. i say run it


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> i had it disabled for the entire time i was BT. I just had it re-enabled about a month ago, and I like the car much better w/ vvt that without. i say run it


The only concern I have is the reliability with the stock tensioner. Have you had any issues?


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

whats wrong with your coilpacks? please dont be like " their not 2.0t packs" cos that is bull****, i have two A revision pushdowns that came with the motor new lol, plus, big power dudes tesed,dyno'd and ran these with zero gains or difference.

anyway, maestro should load up straight with a ton of basemaps...so why are you waiting?!


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> The only concern I have is the reliability with the stock tensioner. Have you had any issues?


no issues. its not even a concern for me.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Vegeta Gti said:


> whats wrong with your coilpacks? please dont be like " their not 2.0t packs" cos that is bull****, i have two A revision pushdowns that came with the motor new lol, plus, big power dudes tesed,dyno'd and ran these with zero gains or difference.
> 
> anyway, maestro should load up straight with a ton of basemaps...so why are you waiting?!


At high RPM's I was having misfires on cylinder 3 until I looked and the coil pack was popped up. I tightened the plug a bit more so hopefully it sealed the cylinder this time. If not I'm going to buy new plugs since the plug seals are probably shot from pulling them and re-tightening so often. Also my misfire on cylinder 1 was never really diagnosed or solved so I figured it was a bad pack. I'll have to wait to see if the code comes back.

Need to IMMO defeat the ECU first unless you know how... From my understanding I have to get a specific code or something from Eurodyne.




Big_Tom said:


> no issues. its not even a concern for me.


After I get a base tune applied and get it fairly straightened out I will enable VVT.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

you can do it right in maestro, you don't need a code, of your ecu had been flushed, just go into the system and check it off

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Any suggestions on which base file to start with? I'd like to run my VR6 MAF.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

option #2 :thumbup:

*edit go with the G2VVT 630cc. i didn't see the 4bar fpr in your sig a few minutes ago


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Holy f*ck...


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

stg3 vvt siemens 630, you can then click your maf of I'd you are mafless, also turn off your rear O2, disable traction control. start car let idle, take it for snail drive, data log some fuel timing, etc etc.then apply histogram, and continue on.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

travis_gli said:


> Holy f*ck...


Is that a good holy fûck, or a bad holy fûck?


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Holy f*ck...


:thumbup:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Vegeta Gti said:


> stg3 vvt siemens 630, you can then click your maf of I'd you are mafless, also turn off your rear O2, disable traction control. start car let idle, take it for snail drive, data log some fuel timing, etc etc.then apply histogram, and continue on.
> 
> Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


yes ur right, i dint see the 4bar fpr in his sig :beer:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Good holy ****  Such a huge difference over running that APR software. Can you change your base tune whenever? I can't seem to get the injector wizard to work. :screwy:

EDIT: Wouldn't the 550cc file be better to used since its based on EV14 injectors?


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

yes, you can reflash a basefile whenever you want...but if you make tweaks, save the file your workin gon under a name you can differentiate,et


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Vegeta Gti said:


> yes, you can reflash a basefile whenever you want...but if you make tweaks, save the file your workin gon under a name you can differentiate,et


The 550 file runs great however it does have a bit of a stall feel when coming to a stop and the car goes to an idling state. I'll re-flash tomorrow with the 630 file and go from there.

Also on first start up I noticed quite a large amount of smoke out of the exhaust as well as water. I'm not sure if that was from the heat, humidity and the car sitting or what. After everything was warmed up it stopped. I had the g/f rev the car a bit and I caught the liquid in my hand it was definitely water. It didn't smell anything close to coolant however I'm afraid I could be wrong. I'm thinking this is completely normal since the car is actually running efficiently for a change.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

travis_gli said:


> Also on first start up I noticed quite a large amount of smoke out of the exhaust as well as water. I'm not sure if that was from the heat, humidity and the car sitting or what. After everything was warmed up it stopped. I had the g/f rev the car a bit and I caught the liquid in my hand it was definitely water. It didn't smell anything close to coolant however I'm afraid I could be wrong. I'm thinking this is completely normal since the car is actually running efficiently for a change.


That happens when the car sits and it's humid outside. I wouldn't worry about it.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

if you want to keep the 550 file, take out your 4bar fpr and go to stock. if you wanna run 630cc, keep the 4bar fpr in


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

as the tune solidifies, cold starts will get better as well as idle, etc

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> if you want to keep the 550 file, take out your 4bar fpr and go to stock. if you wanna run 630cc, keep the 4bar fpr in


What's your suggestions? I mean I spent the money on the 4 bar I might as well keep it in and switch tunes. I'm just afraid its going to run rough since the 630 file was made around siemens injectors rather than bosch ev14's.



Vegeta Gti said:


> as the tune solidifies, cold starts will get better as well as idle, etc
> 
> Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


What do you know about using the histogram functions? I wish somebody would provide a more in depth DIY about this stuff. Even Eurodynes site and forum doesn't have a whole lot of information available.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> What's your suggestions? I mean I spent the money on the 4 bar I might as well keep it in and switch tunes. I'm just afraid its going to run rough since the 630 file was made around siemens injectors rather than bosch ev14's.
> 
> 
> 
> What do you know about using the histogram functions? I wish somebody would provide a more in depth DIY about this stuff. Even Eurodynes site and forum doesn't have a whole lot of information available.


I would try the 630cc file. mine is not bad at all. it should idle just fine with the bosch injectors + 4bar fpr. if it doesn't then someone @ eurodyne is lying  if it doenst function to your liking, removing the 4bar fpr is cake and you can go back to the g2 550cc file in no time


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

travis_gli said:


> What's your suggestions? I mean I spent the money on the 4 bar I might as well keep it in and switch tunes. I'm just afraid its going to run rough since the 630 file was made around siemens injectors rather than bosch ev14's.
> 
> 
> 
> *What do you know about using the histogram functions? I wish somebody would provide a more in depth DIY about this stuff. Even Eurodynes site and forum doesn't have a whole lot of information available.*



Go join the 92 page thread where people are still figuring out how to use a pay product.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

gdoggmoney said:


> Go join the 92 page thread where people are still figuring out how to use a pay product.


LOL :laugh:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

gdoggmoney said:


> Go join the 92 page thread where people are still figuring out how to use a pay product.


This is quite true. :laugh: It would be nice if they would put together a manual of some sort that is of use.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Just started getting a bad stutter when pulling out in 1st. It's only when pulling out from a stand still in first gear. A bit odd. :screwy: I really need to start running logs. Hopefully I get time to tinker this weekend.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Here's what I have logged if anybody wants to take a look at it for me.

Idle

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Avg7qgtByXcqdHpwYnJRdFJHY25IcU5RWjFpd21SWkE

Random Log

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Avg7qgtByXcqdG4yZWQtNk42bW10U1h1MFlNeHloWkE

3k - 7k Pull in 4th gear

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Avg7qgtByXcqdEpMRFJaaDBPanplTEhVRkluTXJuMEE


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

you need to take that lg of the big pull and apply to the pump timing map and use the histogram..cos that is DANGEROUS knock. people say 6* is ok..fuk that..anything over 2.5 is bad in my book. it ook slike you hit ful boos tit pushed some hot air through then cool air but the timing is just bad on the map that far up.

you can use the histogram for anything..load map...fueling...timing,etc,etc.


if i had a way to get my buddies ecu i would make a quick map for you, but he flies sooo much i rarely see him the last few weeks. i would get maestro now but i need a clutch and a few other things i have been putting off, and i def can get a good deal, just don't have the capital right now for it.

i don't see why more people aren't sharing maps and so on, it is so easy. first take these logs and apply them, everytime you do a log, make sure the car is hot as balls, heat soak it, then do the logs, that way you have the ultimate scenario to tune for. secondly, someone should have a setup very close to yours with a good tune by now..ask on the maestro forums on the thread here.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Vegeta Gti said:


> you need to take that lg of the big pull and apply to the pump timing map and use the histogram..cos that is DANGEROUS knock. people say 6* is ok..fuk that..anything over 2.5 is bad in my book. it ook slike you hit ful boos tit pushed some hot air through then cool air but the timing is just bad on the map that far up.
> 
> you can use the histogram for anything..load map...fueling...timing,etc,etc.
> 
> ...


That's the whole thing though my histogram features are not working. I tried loading the log and tracing on each of those maps but the changes showed up as nothing. :screwy: I'll have to email Chris I guess and see whats up. The only thing I can think of is to try a different base file and go from there but I really don't want to risk logging yet another pull with those sort of numbers.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

fortunately you can drive the car and it's fine..just no fun.....there is no one local to you who knows how to use and can show you maestro?


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Vegeta Gti said:


> fortunately you can drive the car and it's fine..just no fun.....there is no one local to you who knows how to use and can show you maestro?


Anybody in the Harrisburg area? Not that I know of. I'm sure somebody does around here somewhere but I have the slightest clue who. I'm fairly positive I'm doing the histogram correct its just not populating any values.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

travis_gli said:


> Anybody in the Harrisburg area? Not that I know of. I'm sure somebody does around here somewhere but I have the slightest clue who. I'm fairly positive I'm doing the histogram correct its just not populating any values.


PM me. I'll hook you up with someone who can help perhaps if he says it's cool to pass the info.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

if they say it isn't cool, then they seem like a dick to me...helping out a dubber, come onnn. just to get them going on their own. if i had it infront of me, i would try to help you..but alas...without it currently available to slap in my car and go over it step by step with you and also be able to send you some maps..i'm slightly useless currently.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Vegeta Gti said:


> if they say it isn't cool, then they seem like a dick to me...helping out a dubber, come onnn. just to get them going on their own. if i had it infront of me, i would try to help you..but alas...without it currently available to slap in my car and go over it step by step with you and also be able to send you some maps..i'm slightly useless currently.


Dude, if I put it out there he'd have 2948092384902348230 people instant messaging him. 

Not to start drama between us -- but there's a 93 page thread and people barely get the basics. This guy knows ME7.5 and ME9 like I know UNIX and knows siemens c167 ASM well enough tto write his own break out code for special functions.


Also if i remember right Tapp has his own names for maps, so going by table dependences and funkshramen is sort of useless since it's labelled different.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

And I'm a complete n00b. :laugh:

How hard is it to pull the wastegate out while on the car. I guess I'm speaking to Tom on this one. Can you get it out without pulling the o2 pipe off?


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

this is true gdogg, i didn't expect you to post it up on here!! lol

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


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## tirerub (Apr 29, 2010)

travis_gli said:


> And I'm a complete n00b. :laugh:
> 
> How hard is it to pull the wastegate out while on the car. I guess I'm speaking to Tom on this one. Can you get it out without pulling the o2 pipe off?


You may be able to, I've never tried on mine just so much easier with the pipe outta the way


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

i believe Aptuning is a eurodyne dealer so they may be able to help you along. Lugtronic or kevin black might be able to help you too, hes probably closer to you than Aptuning is.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

MKIII_96 said:


> i believe Aptuning is a eurodyne dealer so they may be able to help you along. Lugtronic or kevin black might be able to help you too, hes probably closer to you than Aptuning is.


Thanks! :thumbup:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> And I'm a complete n00b. :laugh:
> 
> How hard is it to pull the wastegate out while on the car. I guess I'm speaking to Tom on this one. Can you get it out without pulling the o2 pipe off?


you can unbolt the WG from the manifold easily from up top with just allen wrenches. getting it off the o2 pipe, i think you'll have to jack it up to get where you need to be to unbolt it from the o2 pipe. my wg is recirc'd, if yours is open you might be able to just unbolt it from the manifold and pull it out up top.

i haven't been keeping up lately just curious why you want to remove the wastegate so soon?


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> you can unbolt the WG from the manifold easily from up top with just allen wrenches. getting it off the o2 pipe, i think you'll have to jack it up to get where you need to be to unbolt it from the o2 pipe. my wg is recirc'd, if yours is open you might be able to just unbolt it from the manifold and pull it out up top.
> 
> i haven't been keeping up lately just curious why you want to remove the wastegate so soon?


Too heavy of a spring combination. Its pushing around 23 - 24 psi from what I can read on my boost gauge. I want to put maybe a 10 - 15 PSI spring combination in it and control the boost from there with my boost valve MBC. 24 PSI is too dangerous at the moment for me at least without rods.

Also is around 12 hours a considerable amount of time for rods and pistons? Trying to figure out what I need to save up before she goes back in the garage. I'd like to have them in no later than mid October.


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Too heavy of a spring combination. Its pushing around 23 - 24 psi from what I can read on my boost gauge. I want to put maybe a 10 - 15 PSI spring combination in it and control the boost from there with my boost valve MBC. 24 PSI is too dangerous at the moment for me at least without rods.
> 
> Also is around 12 hours a considerable amount of time for rods and pistons? Trying to figure out what I need to save up before she goes back in the garage. I'd like to have them in no later than mid October.


i feel you. i used to run 23 psi all day, but it does make you think twice  i bumped it down to 20 psi a few months ago. that 3-4 psi is a huge difference ahaha


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> i feel you. i used to run 23 psi all day, but it does make you think twice  i bumped it down to 20 psi a few months ago. that 3-4 psi is a huge difference ahaha


These turbos really breathe at 23+ psi as do all larger turbo's so thats yet another reason I want to get those rods installed asap but for now I really need to play it safe.


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> These turbos really breathe at 23+ psi as do all larger turbo's so thats yet another reason I want to get those rods installed asap but for now I really need to play it safe.


i'll get rods when i break 1 :laugh:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

you mean a talk block end cos a rid takes the block and head with it usually

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Big_Tom said:


> i'll get rods when i break 1 :laugh:


I saved this quote to my notepad for later harassment 



Vegeta Gti said:


> you mean a talk block end cos a rid takes the block and head with it usually
> 
> Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


Chris.. do you read any of your posts before you hit "submit" ? :laugh::facepalm:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> I saved this quote to my notepad for later harassment
> 
> 
> 
> Chris.. do you read any of your posts before you hit "submit" ? :laugh::facepalm:


LOL, this. Veg can't spell lol. don't blame auto correct  also, you been holding your breathe for years now. i still got my rods, let it go guys ahahahaha


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> Chris.. do you read any of your posts before you hit "submit" ? :laugh::facepalm:




Chris, you need to share that good clean green hawaii grass bro


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

gdoggmoney said:


> Chris, you need to share that good clean green hawaii grass bro


:laugh: :thumbup:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

I was trying to decipher what he posted at work and was just like wth does that say??? :what:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

nah man..it was from my phone, and swype is a pita, so i rarely spell check it lol. so it was jsut straight wrong...but i was drinking a little bit :]


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Vegeta Gti said:


> nah man..it was from my phone, and swype is a pita, so i rarely spell check it lol. so it was jsut straight wrong...but i was drinking a little bit :]


lol


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

gdoggmoney said:


> Chris, you need to share that good clean green hawaii grass bro


This







Big_Tom said:


> :laugh: :thumbup:


:thumbup::thumbup:







Vegeta Gti said:


> nah man..it was from my phone, and swype is a pita, so i rarely spell check it lol. so it was jsut straight wrong...but i was drinking a little bit :]


Cool story bro:beer:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

lol, dammit


i don't smoke man..it's been years, literally, i smoked when i got out..but i stopped pretty quickly. but..if you come to the aina..i will be a gracious tour guide


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Vegeta Gti said:


> lol, dammit
> 
> 
> i don't smoke man..it's been years, literally, i smoked when i got out..but i stopped pretty quickly. but..if you come to the aina..i will be a gracious tour guide


:thumbup: i'll let u know when i come to HI


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

:beer::beer:

bring plenty of boxers...i drive/everywhere my car daily, and if for some reason i don't,we'll be slideways in the M3


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Vegeta Gti said:


> :beer::beer:
> 
> bring plenty of boxers...i drive/everywhere my car daily, and if for some reason i don't,we'll be slideways in the M3


:laugh::beer::beer::beer:


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Vegeta Gti said:


> :beer::beer:
> 
> bring plenty of boxers...i drive/everywhere my car daily, and if for some reason i don't,we'll be slideways in the M3





Big_Tom said:


> :laugh::beer::beer::beer:


 Ill be off probation/parole this time next summer. Gotta fly out to Hawaii breh. 

Tom; we need to buy plane tickets, and go raise hell in Hawaii duder:thumbup::thumbup::beer::beer::beer:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ I'm down. I'm on Kayak right now


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

:beer::beer:

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


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## 20VCanuck (Mar 11, 2011)

Figured it out nevermind...

Any updates ?


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Between work and weekend plans I wasn't able to touch the tune much. It runs like @ss at the moment. For some reason it has horrible issues after startup and driving. When you go to pull out or get on the throttle in a low RPM it stutters and bucks and acts like its not getting any fuel. Its weird because if I clear DTC's (which resets fuel trims if I'm not mistaken) everything is fine then after it learns everything again it goes to sh!t. Its even worse during warm up and idle is horrible when I turn on the A/C.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

this is what i spoke about when it came to maestro, just the lack of ability of 99% of the buyers who wanted, to be able to solidify a tune safely for their vehicle. also whilst tuning a nice file for serious driving,etc.

not offense to you trav, i am just reinstating what i said when maestro was coming out. you would've been better with a unitronic or tapp file, 99.2% of the gusy with maestro get files from tuners or other owners, .7% are making some of those files and have theri car squared away, .1% can actually tune it and aren't saying much.

anyway, you will get it figured out.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Vegeta Gti said:


> this is what i spoke about when it came to maestro, just the lack of ability of 99% of the buyers who wanted, to be able to solidify a tune safely for their vehicle. also whilst tuning a nice file for serious driving,etc.
> 
> not offense to you trav, i am just reinstating what i said when maestro was coming out. you would've been better with a unitronic or tapp file, 99.2% of the gusy with maestro get files from tuners or other owners, .7% are making some of those files and have theri car squared away, .1% can actually tune it and aren't saying much.
> 
> anyway, you will get it figured out.


thats why i dont want maestro. i'd still have to have someone else tune the car and I would never use it again.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

The price of maestro compared to the price of the other software options made sense given the abilities of the software. I really wanted to learn how to tune my own vehicle which gave me yet another incentive. I'll eventually get things worked out. :thumbup:


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## a4e3y5 (Jan 21, 2009)

The perception of some people is that if they touch something the engine will blow. Thats why is always recommended to do small increases/decreases on maps. I didnt know shnitz about anything but reading n asking questions have helped me tweak my file a lil to the point where my car hit 398whp at 24 on a 50 trim. Its all about not being shy about asking people who know more than i do n reading threads. Ive been helping people as much as i can n feel content when they write back with positve comments.

Sent from te lo mande desde mi cel!


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

a4e3y5 said:


> The perception of some people is that if they touch something the engine will blow. Thats why is always recommended to do small increases/decreases on maps. I didnt know shnitz about anything but reading n asking questions have helped me tweak my file a lil to the point where my car hit 398whp at 24 on a 50 trim. Its all about not being shy about asking people who know more than i do n reading threads. Ive been helping people as much as i can n feel content when they write back with positve comments.
> 
> Sent from te lo mande desde mi cel!


Welcome to my thread. :wave:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

i left standalone for ease fo a daily...but i will keep my uni ecu and get maestro since i will be stroking, going large rinjector and possibly going gtx in the future. so each time. i twould require a tune/flash of some sort..so...should've wired the car autronic lol


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Vegeta Gti said:


> i left standalone for ease fo a daily...but i will keep my uni ecu and get maestro since i will be stroking, going large rinjector and possibly going gtx in the future. so each time. i twould require a tune/flash of some sort..so...should've wired the car autronic lol


Thats also what I was thinking. Eventually I'll have another daily driver which means this one is going on the track.


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## a4e3y5 (Jan 21, 2009)

Vegeta Gti said:


> i left standalone for ease fo a daily...but i will keep my uni ecu and get maestro since i will be stroking, going large rinjector and possibly going gtx in the future. so each time. i twould require a tune/flash of some sort..so...should've wired the car autronic lol


From what ive read around u r a knowledgeable guy...im sure if u get ypur hands on maestro u will get the grasp easily. Dont hesitate...it feels great when u yourself can make ur car go faster..imagine knowing people who can actually take u in the rite direction! Go for maestro!

Sent from te lo mande desde mi cel!


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## a4e3y5 (Jan 21, 2009)

travis_gli said:


> Welcome to my thread. :wave:


Anytime bro...just hit me up!

Sent from te lo mande desde mi cel!


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## a4e3y5 (Jan 21, 2009)

travis_gli said:


> The price of maestro compared to the price of the other software options made sense given the abilities of the software. I really wanted to learn how to tune my own vehicle which gave me yet another incentive. I'll eventually get things worked out. :thumbup:


N u will! N u will feel so good when u get to work it yourself!

Sent from te lo mande desde mi cel!


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

$8.82 for 4 NGK's from Rock Auto. :thumbup: Hell yeah


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> $8.82 for 4 NGK's from Rock Auto. :thumbup: Hell yeah


:thumbup: i payed $8.2x for my last set. cant beat the performance you get for the price of these plugs


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

a4e3y5 said:


> From what ive read around u r a knowledgeable guy...im sure if u get ypur hands on maestro u will get the grasp easily. Dont hesitate...it feels great when u yourself can make ur car go faster..imagine knowing people who can actually take u in the rite direction! Go for maestro!
> 
> Sent from te lo mande desde mi cel!


 i already have my hands on maestro :]

i just don't have it on my car, i got two buddies with it, one jsut got it recently and he is having zero issues on a 630 file i settled for him, if he weren't poor like myself we would go do some dyno time to get some static logs, and heavy load pulls safely.


i liked SDS back in the day, autronic is unreal and lugtronic is great, but i wanna try maestro out since i realllyyy dont wanna rewire my MKI lol. i like having the stock ecu and it's obvious there is alot it still has to offer.:beer:


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## a4e3y5 (Jan 21, 2009)

Vegeta Gti said:


> i already have my hands on maestro :


I had my suspisions he he he:thumbup:

Sent from te lo mande desde mi cel!


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

:beer::beer:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

I'm starting to think my idle and light throttle issues could be related to my old battery. It's still the factory battery and here and there cranks a bit slow. If I replace that though I might as well replace the alternator as well. I'm just wondering if the voltage correction for the injectors is getting thrown off because the battery and alternator are no longer outputting the required voltage. Idle gets much worse with things powered on such as the HVAC fan and A/C.

EDIT: Should I try switching back to the stock AWP MAF?

LATE NIGHT EDIT: So after doing a bit of research I read that people had luck by decreasing the voltage compensation levels by 20% so I gave that a go. I'll have to flash it tomorrow some time. After showing some dude my log he had me go with a constant of like .41. :screwy: If anything shouldn't my constant have to go up if my o2 corrections are too high? I took it back to the recommended .51 that is calculated in Maestro. He was telling me to tune out the pulls first and then worry about idle. If you ask me thats a bit @ss backwards. I want my car running in optimal condition before even doing any pulls. So right now I'm going to worry about my daily driving and idle first most.

Here's the read...

http://www.eurodyne.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=809


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

nice work trav, you'll get it figured out soon. keep playing with it and you'll be helping me with my idle when you come to visit :laugh::beer:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Well I was going to do my emissions delete one of these weekends until I found out these f*ckers went out of business.

http://www.postreleased.com/

:banghead: I really didn't want to cut apart my factory harnesses to solder in some resistors but it doesn't look like I have a choice.


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## STOICH (Jun 21, 2010)

You can just bridge the resistor across the OE connector and tape it up. I've had mine like this for quite a while without issue. Just bend the legs in a zigzag fashion as you insert them into the connection.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

STOICH said:


> You can just bridge the resistor across the OE connector and tape it up. I've had mine like this for quite a while without issue. Just bend the legs in a zigzag fashion as you insert them into the connection.


I guess I could do that... No offense but it sounds a bit [email protected] to me. I mean I understand it would work but there's a few of those connectors that effect your fuel trims and I wouldn't want one of those guys coming loose.


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## STOICH (Jun 21, 2010)

The guy that ran that site is a member on here if I recall correctly. Maybe try to get in contact directly with him...someone should know his name on here.

Otherwise, cutting and soldering is always a good perm fix. I just never felt comfortable with chopping the harness in the event I needed to revert back to OE sensor/systems.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

STOICH said:


> I just never felt comfortable with chopping the harness in the event I needed to revert back to OE sensor/systems.


:thumbup: this

I think he sold his "company" or w/e it was to integrated or somebody due to the following. If I remember correctly they use to sell these as "PostReleased" not "made by Integrated Engineering."

http://www.intengineering.com/postreleased-sai-evap-delete-resistor-rectangle-plug.html

http://www.intengineering.com/integrated-engineering-sai-evap-delete-resistor-oval-plug.html

However I don't remember his products being $15 a piece for a plastic plug with a resistor installed in it and a cap on the end. :screwy:

EDIT: Actually if you look at the URL it still states PostReleased.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

AAAAAAHHH!!! These come back in stock right after I buy my plastic set from freken BFI. :banghead:

http://volxtuning.com/products-page/headlights/mk4-jetta-bora-euro-spec-gli-style-glass-headlights/

EDIT: WITH LEVELING MOTORS!!! GUHHHHH! :laugh:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> AAAAAAHHH!!! These come back in stock right after I buy my plastic set from freken BFI. :banghead:
> 
> http://volxtuning.com/products-page/headlights/mk4-jetta-bora-euro-spec-gli-style-glass-headlights/
> 
> EDIT: WITH LEVELING MOTORS!!! GUHHHHH! :laugh:


I'll be picking up a set of these soon :beer:


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## rodgertherabit (Apr 16, 2009)

Not to jack, but, I have the rheostat and ecs wiring harness if anyone wants!


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

rodgertherabit said:


> Not to jack,


 But you just did soooo....... GTFO? :thumbup:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

So far here's what I did. I re-did my injector constant using the injector wizard in Maestro. I also left the values given for voltage compensation alone. I got gas a Sunoco instead of some random gas station and everything seems to be running much more smoothly. Here and there (especially in extremely hot weather) I'm getting the low RPM stutter / bucking issue so I'm thinking about lowering the voltage compensation levels by 5% and going from there. 

Also ordered a new clutch pedal switch since mine is dead. You can start the car when not on the clutch. :screwy: Not sure if that effects anything though. 

EDIT: And a new thermostat, thermostat housing, and temp sensor since I keep getting the performance malfunction in cooling system code. :banghead:


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Clutch switch affects rev hang and coming down to idle. Seriously. EVen a noticable better operations leaving lights and coming down on BT 630cc type setups. 

Oh and you gets no anti-lag-NLS.


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## rodgertherabit (Apr 16, 2009)

travis_gli said:


> But you just did soooo....... GTFO? :thumbup:


 K then. :wave: Everyone loves levelers that actually work. 

On topic tho, For $15ea the resistors aren't that pricey. Although they used to be $9.99. :thumbup:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

rodgertherabit said:


> K then. :wave: Everyone loves levelers that actually work.
> 
> On topic tho, For $15ea the resistors aren't that pricey. Although they used to be $9.99. :thumbup:


 Yeah, from post released they use to be $10 a piece with very cheap shipping. If I delete all this crap I'll just end up soldering some in place I guess considering you can get a whole pack of resistors, electrical tape / shrink tubing to do the whole car for $10. 

Also just bought FSI coil packs and IE adapters for them. People are saying they are getting a .40 gap with these things and with my sh!tty gas choices in the area I definitely could benefit from the hotter spark. :thumbup:


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## rodgertherabit (Apr 16, 2009)

You can run a gap that big but it was recommended to me to keep it bewtween .32 and .35 if possible. 

I started big But brought it back down.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

travis_gli said:


> Also just bought FSI coil packs and IE adapters for them. People are saying they are getting a .40 gap with these things and with my sh!tty gas choices in the area I definitely could benefit from the hotter spark. :thumbup:


 Gap is dependent on the amount of boost. Personally, I would never run a gap that high. 
So, if you run under 25psi, I am sure you can get away with such a large gap. Above that you might get blowout. 
Essentially, you want to run the highest gap you can without it blowing out your spark :thumbup:


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

18T_BT said:


> Gap is dependent on the amount of boost. Personally, I would never run a gap that high.
> So, if you run under 25psi, I am sure you can get away with such a large gap. Above that you might get blowout.
> Essentially, you want to run the highest gap you can without it blowing out your spark :thumbup:


 Been running .038 on coppers in the Jetta -- I pulled the iridium plugs out. This is 23psi so far no blow out. Just awesome powa, better idle and smoother low RPM and high rpm stuff. 

Tonight im likely going to get another 15 gallons of alcohol.


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## xxsur3shotxx (Sep 24, 2009)

I run an .034 gap @ 20 PSI 

TSI Coils


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

xxsur3shotxx said:


> I run an .034 gap @ 20 PSI
> 
> TSI Coils


 :thumbup: That's what I'll be shooting for. .034 - .038 

Also I tried lowering the voltage compensation today by 5% just to see if things smoothed out however it made everything absolutely horrible. I stalled 3 times coasting to a stop and any throttle load was very bucky and what not. I immediately went back to the Maestro recommended settings for the 550's. Even though it idles rough and slightly bucks at times it at least stays running.


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## xxsur3shotxx (Sep 24, 2009)

travis_gli said:


> :thumbup: That's what I'll be shooting for. .034 - .038
> 
> Also I tried lowering the voltage compensation today by 5% just to see if things smoothed out however it made everything absolutely horrible.  I stalled 3 times coasting to a stop and any throttle load was very bucky and what not. I immediately went back to the Maestro recommended settings for the 550's. Even though it idles rough and slightly bucks at times it at least stays running.


 you need to drive the car for awhile, let the trims work themselves out. Then adjust as necessary. 

See here: 

http://www.eurodyne.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=1003&start=30


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

xxsur3shotxx said:


> you need to drive the car for awhile, let the trims work themselves out. Then adjust as necessary.
> 
> See here:
> 
> http://www.eurodyne.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=1003&start=30


 Thanks :thumbup:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Block 032 

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Avg7qgtByXcqdFRqcWQtNm5YNkRfNTZMZ2xyVjdKTXc 

I'm guessing these numbers do not change very much as they are long term trims? 

Sorry for a being a huge noob and not reading as much as I should. I just have VERY VERY little time while at work to look into such things. Its hard for me to even find the time to run logs. :banghead:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Could somebody for god sake tell me if my calculations are correct. 

032 Log 
*First Block:* -3.38% 
*Second Block:* -14.84% 
*Current Injector Constant:* 0.051504 (correct me if I'm wrong but this is ms/%) 

From my understanding I must use the first block to correct the idle pulsewidth's of the voltage compensation table. In order to do so I must do the following... 

First Block (correction) X Injector Constant = compensation correction amount 

-3.38% X 0.051504 ms/% = -0.17408352 ms (This is now ms because the percentages cancel out, also from my understanding negative / positive is no longer necessary here since we are dealing with an amount of time) 

I must now adjust my idle pulsewidths by 0.17408352 ms. 

*Now this is where I'm stuck. Since my original value in the first block is NEGATIVE does that mean I must remove fuel? If so that means I need to add time to the idle pulsewidth? Which means I should be adding 0.17408352 to the idle pulsewidth? Also what is the idle pulsewidth? Is this the first value on the battery compensation map? As in the value with the lowest voltage?* 
* 
Another good question would be, should I even be adjusting idle values or be adjusting my constant first?* 

EDIT: I promise once I get this all sorted out I will create a HOW TO from start to finish. :thumbup:


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## sabbySC (Dec 29, 2009)

0.051504 X .0338 = 0.001740835 

This is what you subtract from BVC values. That being said your second trim values are to high, you won't want to adjust your constant by ~15% I would look to into possible mechanical issues first (boost/vac leaks) first. 

How is your idle with the current values? It should be good because most people consider plus/minus 4% to be reasonable trim values.


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

If you haven't read this before... 
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/fuel-trim.html


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

sabbySC said:


> 0.051504 X .0338 = 0.001740835
> 
> This is what you subtract from BVC values. That being said your second trim values are to high, you won't want to adjust your constant by ~15% I would look to into possible mechanical issues first (boost/vac leaks) first.
> 
> How is your idle with the current values? It should be good because most people consider plus/minus 4% to be reasonable trim values.


 I don't think I have any leaks but I can always double check as time allows. What values should I actually subtract from? All of them? My idle is fairly decent, it bounces around a little. I've been having some issues with bucking in lower RPM's however. It seems to be much worse in warm up phases and when its really hot outside (90* +). Basically you get on the throttle consistently and the car feels as if I am tapping the throttle in and out at a fast pace as to make my passenger whack their forehead off the dash and the headrest. Then eventually it levels out and calms down. 

PS: If I had any leaks would the idle corrections not be way off as well? :screwy:


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## sabbySC (Dec 29, 2009)

Unplug your maf and let us know how it runs. Are you running a stock TB and intake? 

With a leak yes your idle values would likely be off as well, but it is always worth checking, as everytime I have any issues I can generally trace it back to leaks.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

sabbySC said:


> Unplug your maf and let us know how it runs. Are you running a stock TB and intake?
> 
> With a leak yes your idle values would likely be off as well, but it is always worth checking, as everytime I have any issues I can generally trace it back to leaks.


 Stock throttle body and intake with a VR6 MAF. 

I'm going to adjust the BVC values (I'm guessing I subtract your given value across the board of the BVC map). I'll probably flash this tonight. I'm going to clear codes and reset my long term fuel trims and run the car again for 100 miles or so. If the bucking issue comes back I will unplug the MAF and see what happens. (It doesn't seem to start until LTFT values set in) In 100 miles I'll pull block 032 again and see what I come up with. In between this if I find any leaks I will correct them and start over by clearing codes and resetting fuel trims once again. 

I don't think its a combustion / blowout issue however I do have new plugs and FSI coils on the way so hopefully I can get a much better spark for the sh!t gasoline sold around here. 

PS: You are sure that 14% is way off for partial throttle with my given IC? 

PPS: Thank you 100 times for the help. You guys on here have no idea how much I appreciate the response and feedback. I've been in the dark since I bought this software but I'm slowly starting to understand things.


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## sabbySC (Dec 29, 2009)

Before you try anything, unplug the maf and go for a drive. 14% is too much IMO.


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## xxsur3shotxx (Sep 24, 2009)

sabbySC said:


> Before you try anything, unplug the maf and go for a drive. 14% is too much IMO.


 yeah, it is a bit much. Also, you want to try to dial in the injector constant before the BVC table, since the IC affects both values.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

xxsur3shotxx said:


> yeah, it is a bit much. Also, you want to try to dial in the injector constant before the BVC table, since the IC affects both values.


 With the given data above (and I'm not going to use 14% since everybody suggests I may have another issue at hand) for demonstration purposes could somebody show me the equation to adjust the IC please. The thread that I was linked to is way to confusing, there is like 5 different people going over different ways to get to the same place.


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## xxsur3shotxx (Sep 24, 2009)

travis_gli said:


> With the given data above (and I'm not going to use 14% since everybody suggests I may have another issue at hand) for demonstration purposes could somebody show me the equation to adjust the IC please. The thread that I was linked to is way to confusing, there is like 5 different people going over different ways to get to the same place.


 to adjust the IC, you just take the value in the second block and scale the constant by it. 

For example, if the value in your second block is 10% you need to scale the constant up by 10%, so just take you old constant and multiply it by 1.10. (This is how you do it in one step. If you like you can multiply the constant by .10, and then add that value to your old constant) 

Conversely, if the value in the second block was -10%, you need to scale down by 10%. So multiply your constant by .90. (or by .10 and subtract this from the constant) 

Constant = 0.0500 
Block 032, second value= 10% 
New Constant= 0.0500*1.10=0.0550 

OR 

Constant=.0500 
Block 032, second value= -10% 
New Constant= .0500*.9=.045


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

xxsur3shotxx said:


> to adjust the IC, you just take the value in the second block and scale the constant by it.
> 
> For example, if the value in your second block is 10% you need to scale the constant up by 10%, so just take you old constant and multiply it by 1.10. (This is how you do it in one step. If you like you can multiply the constant by .10, and then add that value to your old constant)
> 
> ...


 See, that is so [email protected] simple. Why do people make it sound all difficult. :screwy: 

Thank you btw. :thumbup:


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## xxsur3shotxx (Sep 24, 2009)

travis_gli said:


> See, that is so [email protected] simple. Why do people make it sound all difficult. :screwy:
> 
> Thank you btw. :thumbup:


 :beer:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Pulled the MAF today. Didn't seem to make any difference. Its fairly hot outside and it was "hiccuping" while pulling out all over the place. It feels like I'm not giving it any throttle and just letting out the clutch and somehow the car gives itself just enough throttle to keep going without stalling.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Dumb question, but have you done a tba?


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## sabbySC (Dec 29, 2009)

what plugs are you running? What gap and how old are they? I have a feeling your hiccuping may not be due to the tune.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> Dumb question, but have you done a tba?


 Yes but I can always do it again. :thumbup: Should you do this after every flash? 



sabbySC said:


> what plugs are you running? What gap and how old are they? I have a feeling your hiccuping may not be due to the tune.


 Currently running BKR7E with a .025 gap I believe. The plugs have maybe 15 - 20k on them. I have new ones ready to throw in once my coil packs get here. 

This morning it was absolutely terrible. I started the car and threw it in reverse to back out of my spot. As soon as I let out the clutch and gave it a bit of gas the RPM's dropped to 400 RPM ish like it usual does. So I pushed the clutch back in and tried to give it gas to get the RPM's up but the throttle was completely unresponsive (I forgot to mention this is what happens when it has its fits). I didn't get throttle control back until at least 60 seconds later. In the mean time it was just hanging around 400 RPM ish (enough so it wouldn't stall) and making a hiccuping type of noise (my guess is due to the low RPM). I'm really hoping it isn't an ECU problem I just bought the [email protected] thing. :banghead: 


On the bright side of things she got some new shoes on yesterday. :thumbup:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Check out this idle log I just took yesterday. Specifically, look toward the end of the log at the o2 corrections and knock values. :screwy: 

Also why did my intake temperature go down? I wasn't moving... (sensor may be bad?) 

I also believe the MAF was unplugged at the time of this log so why is there a couple frames where the MAF showed a value... This was during cranking I believe 

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Avg7qgtByXcqdE5uYl9GYm1TQ082bGFUVC1RczM2bmc


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Things seemed to have improved slightly with just the new coil packs. I gapped the new plugs to .035 but haven't had the time to install them yet. When time allows I'll put them in and post my results. I have yet to have the bullsh!t stuttering issue on startup yet. It still hesitates slightly under throttle at times but I don't completely lose throttle control when pulling out like I use to. 

The next thing getting replaced is the alternator and battery. I was looking for a 200A alternator but can't seem to find one. I'm going to at least put a 120A in.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

I now have -9.00 and -6.25 in block 032 after using the TT225 MAF profile and resetting fuel trims. I probably put around 200 miles on it over the weekend so its safe to say these readings are fairly accurate.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Things seemed to have improved slightly with just the new coil packs. I gapped the new plugs to .035 but haven't had the time to install them yet. When time allows I'll put them in and post my results. I have yet to have the bullsh!t stuttering issue on startup yet. It still hesitates slightly under throttle at times but I don't completely lose throttle control when pulling out like I use to.
> 
> The next thing getting replaced is the alternator and battery. I was looking for a 200A alternator but can't seem to find one. I'm going to at least put a 120A in.


 why so much gap on the plugs? bkr7e come at .035" gap. also, i dont think we have 200a alternators. highest replacement i've seen would be 120. my stock one was 90. i went with another 90


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> why so much gap on the plugs? bkr7e come at .035" gap. also, i dont think we have 200a alternators. highest replacement i've seen would be 120. my stock one was 90. i went with another 90


 From my understanding you want to go with the largest gap possible before blowout to get the most efficient combustion which can result in power gains. I'm also thinking that the hotter spark can help remedy "bad gas" situations and help with fuel mileage. Too large of a gap obviously can be bad and cause blowout / misfires. However these FSI coils are suppose to be able to handle the larger gaps quite well.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

i guess if you have the fsi coils you can run the larger gap. i am on the stock coils with .026" gap and the car runs great


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> i guess if you have the fsi coils you can run the larger gap. i am on the stock coils with .026" gap and the car runs great


 Welp mine runs like poo so I'm trying to eliminate any possibilities.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

I believe I'm going to soon start on my own DIY for Maestro at least for ironing out the base tunes. Ever so slightly I'm getting closer and closer to a stable tune thanks to the help I've been getting here on Vortex.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

travis_gli said:


> I believe I'm going to soon start on my own DIY for Maestro at least for ironing out the base tunes. Ever so slightly I'm getting closer and closer to a stable tune thanks to the help I've been getting here on Vortex.


 Glad to hear you're making progress travis:beer: Keep tweaking, and making improvements. Too many guys settle for a 'meh' running car. Its a shame.

There's guys with 50 trim, and 3071 setups putting down more power than guys with large frame turbos. Why? Its all in the tune.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

For you 50 trim guys how sluggish are the lower RPM's like 1k - 3.5k? I just feel like I'm driving around a scooter in those RPM's. Could be the tune... Its understood that I have no boost in those RPM ranges but still. :screwy:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> Glad to hear you're making progress travis:beer: Keep tweaking, and making improvements. Too many guys settle for a 'meh' running car. Its a shame.
> 
> There's guys with 50 trim, and 3071 setups putting down more power than guys with large frame turbos. Why? Its all in the tune.


 yep :thumbup: 



travis_gli said:


> For you 50 trim guys how sluggish are the lower RPM's like 1k - 3.5k? I just feel like I'm driving around a scooter in those RPM's. Could be the tune... Its understood that I have no boost in those RPM ranges but still. :screwy:


 my 1st 2 files were a little sluggish in low rpms and out of boost. this new one is awesome. it actually has decent power down low now and spool is more snappy. I drove the car for the 1st time in weeks this morning, it felt great. I almost forgot about the new VVT on there, I garaged it a day or 2 after I got the ECU back from Al.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> yep :thumbup:
> 
> 
> 
> my 1st 2 files were a little sluggish in low rpms and out of boost. this new one is awesome. it actually has decent power down low now and spool is more snappy. I drove the car for the 1st time in weeks this morning, it felt great. I almost forgot about the new VVT on there, I garaged it a day or 2 after I got the ECU back from Al.


 I'm hoping once I get my injectors and LTFT's worked out I can remedy it by using the histogram features.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Welp... Game Over.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Welp... Game Over.


WHAT THE FCUK HAPPEND BRO!?!?!?!?!?!? :what:


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Damn.. car-b-q..

Gonna fix it? Doesn't look too bad really?


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Don't really know. Fire company said possibly the battery. It looks more passenger side front so I think it was fuel related. I have the slightest clue. As for what I'm doing with the car I don't know. Its up the the insurance company. If they total it I'm going to either buy another 1.8T or spend the extra money and find a nice 2.0T. If they don't total then it will be restored back to before this bull**** happened by R. Miller.

As for aftermarket parts goes I guess I just need to dig up all the receipts for them to make sure I get the money back.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Fuel leak? 

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Stay away from those 2.0T's bro. I had bought an 06' 2.0T passat for a driver NEW; car was nothing but problems. Just got rid of it after 126,000 nightmare ridden miles. Good riddance :thumbdown:


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## 20VCanuck (Mar 11, 2011)

This makes me very sad.. sorry to hear man.

Looks like it came from your fuel pump area. I spotted a leak with mine yesterday onto the rail, glad I caught it in time.

Needless to say, I think I am going to purchase a little fire extinguisher for my trunk.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Don't really know. Fire company said possibly the battery. It looks more passenger side front so I think it was fuel related. I have the slightest clue. As for what I'm doing with the car I don't know. Its up the the insurance company. If they total it I'm going to either buy another 1.8T or spend the extra money and find a nice 2.0T. If they don't total then it will be restored back to before this bull**** happened by R. Miller.
> 
> As for aftermarket parts goes I guess I just need to dig up all the receipts for them to make sure I get the money back.


damn, that sux man. at least you got out alright and dint crash


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## Budsdubbin (Jul 14, 2008)

Rough man... Same thing happened to me but the reason why it started on fire was because I through a simple aluminized steel flex pipe on as a dump tube. One winter in buffalo and it rusted out and eventually had a whole large enough to send all that heat into my firewall. Caught the firewall on fire then the fuel lines ..... It was rough but there is light at the end of the tunnel. If they don't total it take the cash and start tucking and shaving a bit like I did. I'm on my way to finishing sometime in the next couple weeks. Keep your head up, don't give up your bay looks alot like where I was last year so its not a total loss, as I once thought myself looking at the same picture last oct.



PS: HUGE reminder for anyone in the community you need to carry a fire extinguisher I'll be rocking one as soon as my motor is back in.:laugh:


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## AmIdYfReAk (Nov 8, 2006)

*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> Stay away from those 2.0T's bro. I had bought an 06' 2.0T passat for a driver NEW; car was nothing but problems. Just got rid of it after 126,000 nightmare ridden miles. Good riddance :thumbdown:


I think you're meaning to say "stay away from the FSI's" 

the TFSI and TSI's are mucho better! 



travis_gli said:


> Welp... Game Over.


Ouch, that must have sucked... sorry to see that...

But in all honesty, it looks saveable! You can bounce back man!


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## STOICH (Jun 21, 2010)

Budsdubbin said:


> PS: HUGE reminder for anyone in the community you need to carry a fire extinguisher


Can't be said enough :thumbup:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

thats fixable, and this is why i have an automotive fire exstinguisher in my front seat.

this is also why i never put a second fuel pump in the engine bay...this could've been fuel or oil.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

I bet it was fuel. What size fuel lines were used and what kind of clamps? The stock fuel rail is a bitch to seal even with the proper clamps


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

I felt gay for carrying two little extinguishers.. This is a good reminder of function>form.


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## Dub-Nub (Sep 27, 2005)

Anyone else thinking that having a top mount manifold could have contributed to this?


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Dub-Nub said:


> Anyone else thinking that having a top mount manifold could have contributed to this?


Absolutely. Even upon a cursery inspection of that pic; you can see that's where it originated from. 

Waaay too much heat in the worst possible place in the engine bay, coupled with the fact that kinetics lines are way too short = bad news IMO. There's been many a car-b-q due to the design of these kits. Id feel safer rocking an ATP kit; to be honest.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Dub-Nub said:


> Anyone else thinking that having a top mount manifold could have contributed to this?


I think having improperly installed fuel system in the engine bay contributed to this. I used to have a top mount mani and a walbro 255 in the engine bay for almost a year. Never had a problem.

Look where the fire is concentrated in the pictures. Right next to the timing belt cover where the fuel pump sits.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> I think having improperly installed fuel system in the engine bay contributed to this. I used to have a top mount mani and a walbro 255 in the engine bay for almost a year. Never had a problem.
> 
> Look where the fire is concentrated in the pictures. Right next to the timing belt cover where the fuel pump sits.


Not discounting the obvious possible install errors; the top mount setups certainly add an unnecessary level of heat, as well as risk. 

That said; Travis worked hard to build this car, and I hope he doesn't throw in the towel after this 'little' setback.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

If its totaled how much do you want for the rolling shell, no motor just the trans?


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## halchka99 (Apr 18, 2002)

*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> Absolutely. Even upon a cursery inspection of that pic; you can see that's where it originated from.
> 
> Waaay too much heat in the worst possible place in the engine bay, coupled with the fact that kinetics lines are way too short = bad news IMO. There's been many a car-b-q due to the design of these kits. Id feel safer rocking an ATP kit; to be honest.


a blanket helps keep temps under control. i dont know why anyone would run a top mount without a blanket. I also have wraps on all fuel lines that sit near the turbo hotside. i run a top mount with 1 of my 3 pumps in the bay. Granted its all AN fittings but none the less.

edit: the walbro should have also been installed to the left of the power steering can.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> If its totaled how much do you want for the rolling shell, no motor just the trans?


Richie you're a dick:thumbdown:


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> Richie you're a dick:thumbdown:


I don't see how offering to pay money for a car that is basically worthless makes me a dick?


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

mmmmmm well thats a buzz kill.... :thumbdown:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

If they total the car I will most likely buy it back and offer it as a rolling shell for a bit. Depending what the buyback price would be I'm thinking about $4k. If you think thats too much voice your opinions. I'd just like to get some money back for the parts currently on it. As not everything is gone. Most of the aftermarket parts are all still intact.

Honestly right now I'm just not in to spending the time and money anymore. I'm trying to save up for a house, planning to propose to my girlfriend and just need a daily to drive to work. The way I look at it now is its not a total loss. The car is still my car, I'll take what the insurance company gives, buy the car back, buy another car (probably an Audi) and attempt to sell or part out the GLI. It definitely sucks but I got to move on and think about my future.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> I don't see how offering to pay money for a car that is basically worthless makes me a dick?


Are you serious?

You're "that guy" who asks "how much" for a dead Guy's Rolex, that he's wearing, in the casket, at his own viewing.

You're "that guy"..

Don't be that guy..


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> Are you serious?
> 
> You're "that guy" who asks "how much" for a dead Guy's Rolex, that he's wearing, in the casket, at his own viewing.
> 
> ...


:laugh: It seriously doesn't bother me. I'm glad people are already interested in it. :thumbup:


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

travis_gli said:


> :laugh: It seriously doesn't bother me. I'm glad people are already interested in it. :thumbup:


Yea I feel ya Travis, but Richie couldn't even wait til the thing stopped smoldering.

The Guy's a catfish :thumbdown:


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## DUBBED-OUT (Mar 21, 2008)

Remember, fire extinguishers are a good to have but they don't prevent fires, they just put them out... 

"The act of prevention is better than the cure"
Form the looks of it it looks as if the fuel pump/lines should be to blame.
When it comes to (DIY) things fuel lines, oil lines & brake line make a safety list and check it twice. 

To the OP "Keep trying, keep trying. don't give up don't give up" It'll be worth a whole lot more to you in the end... :beer::beer:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

MKIII_96 said:


> mmmmmm well thats a buzz kill.... :thumbdown:


what else do you expect from this guy? 



*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> Richie you're a dick:thumbdown:



yup



*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> Are you serious?
> 
> You're "that guy" who asks "how much" for a dead Guy's Rolex, that he's wearing, in the casket, at his own viewing.
> 
> ...


he's is that guy. look @ his sig :facepalm: pure hater for no reason 



*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> Yea I feel ya Travis, but Richie couldn't even wait til the thing stopped smoldering.
> 
> The Guy's a catfish :thumbdown:


not even a catfish, i like catfish. more like a blob-fish 










"In case you ever wondered where the creator of Ziggy came up with the artistic concept, wonder no more. This fish (if "fish" we can really call it) is the weirdest looking sea creature we've ever seen. What's worse is that this animal is just as lazy as it looks and sounds...it barely expends any energy even eating, making sure it gobbles up whatever just happens to be floating by at the moment. So maybe a little less Ziggy ... a little more Al Bundy. Either way, it makes us seriously think about our carb intake."


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

State Farm already started arguing with me about the towing fee's etc. I had a local towing company take it to their place for the day yesterday and State Farm said they weren't going to cover the costs unless they picked it up and took it to their facilities. I asked them where their facilities were and they told me they were 30+ miles away in Lancaster, PA. I'm located in Harrisburg, PA. I promptly told them I will have it towed to my apartment where I can actually meet the adjuster and they will be reimbursing me for the costs that I pay to have this done. They are the insurer and am the insured. I had an accident with my vehicle. How are they not obligated to pay these costs? :screwy: After I argued the fact she agreed they will reimburse me for the towing fees.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> Yea I feel ya Travis, but Richie couldn't even wait til the thing stopped smoldering.
> 
> The Guy's a catfish :thumbdown:


Who is hating now?


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

travis_gli said:


> State Farm already started arguing with me about the towing fee's etc. I had a local towing company take it to their place for the day yesterday and State Farm said they weren't going to cover the costs unless they picked it up and took it to their facilities. I asked them where their facilities were and they told me they were 30+ miles away in Lancaster, PA. I'm located in Harrisburg, PA. I promptly told them I will have it towed to my apartment where I can actually meet the adjuster and they will be reimbursing me for the costs that I pay to have this done. They are the insurer and am the insured. I had an accident with my vehicle. How are they not obligated to pay these costs? :screwy: After I argued the fact she agreed they will reimburse me for the towing fees.


Yea.. you always have to "play the game" with insurance companies. Dont "settle" on anything, and youll eventually come out on top:thumbup:







formerly silveratljetta said:


> Who is hating now?


 Me.. Umadbro?


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

Womp, Womp, wompppppp.....


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

opcorn:


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Sorry to see this man, you spent alot of money/time on this build... Good luck with whatever you decide to do with it:thumbup:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Who is hating now?


you are, look at that sig. you are concerned about my rods why? i put WAY more big turbo miles on my car than you. nuff said


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Like the sands through the hourglass; so are the days of our lives...


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Big_Tom said:


> you are, look at that sig. you are concerned about my rods why? i put WAY more big turbo miles on my car than you. nuff said




He is really concerned about one rod in particular. Integrated engineering does not sell that one, and he won't be happy if it breaks from fatigue while he is using it.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

gdoggmoney said:


> He is really concerned about one rod in particular. Integrated engineering does not sell that one, and he won't be happy if it breaks from fatigue while he is using it.


Well said :thumbup:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

gdoggmoney said:


> He is really concerned about one rod in particular. Integrated engineering does not sell that one, and he won't be happy if it breaks from fatigue while he is using it.


that rod is only for the women lol! and ur right he is ridin it hard as FCUK ahahaha. he even agrees 



formerly silveratljetta said:


> Well said :thumbup:


word, so **** lol :facepalm:


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

:facepalm:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

For anybody in this thread looking for rods and pistons (20mm brute rods w/ wisecos to be exact) PM me and I can cut you a deal. They are still brand new. I have rings and bearings to go with them. Bearings are factory. Trying to get rid of them for obvious reasons. :thumbup:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Car is finally back in my driveway, going to swap just about every aftermarket part I can off of it tonight and tomorrow before the insurance company comes to pick it back up on Thursday.


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