# 1995 Golf 2.0 Won't Start.....No Spark



## cgrossl (Mar 21, 2010)

I have a 95 VW Golf, with a 2.0 engine, 5 speed, with 142K miles on it. Recently, I pulled into Applebee's to have a couple beers, and when I got back in my car to leave, it simply would not start. The starter cranked the engine over, but it wouldn't even consider starting. It didn't even hit at all. It was running fine on the way to Applebee's and it was at operating temp when I parked it.
So, I had it towed home since I was sure it was something really simple. I started with the simple stuff and checked for fuel pressure, spark, etc. and found that the the spark plugs were not firing. I have searched through the archives here and learned alot about the 2.0 ignition system. So far, here's what I've got.
I have 11.5 volts at the coil with the key on. I have also replaced the coil/ignition module package....no change. I tested the ECU relay by manually supplying voltage to the coil then checking for continuity across the contacts, and also by removing the relay and manually jumpering the ECU power terminals. The relay is good. At the Hall effect sensor in the distributor, I only have about 5v across the outside terminals with the key on. I read somewhere that I should have over 10v here. Is that true? I have also checked the resistance across the outside terminals on the crank sensor plug, and I have an open circuit. I read somewhere on here that I should have 500-700 ohms. Is this true?
When I turn the key on, the check engine light does come on. When I remove the ECU relay, it doesn't. When I crank the engine, the tachometer needle does come up a little. 
I have tried to retrieve the trouble codes by jumpering terminals 4 and 15 on the OBD I plug, but I can't get the CEL to blink. It just turns off when I remove the jumper after leaving it in for 4 seconds. Right now you're thinking, my ECU is bad, but a few months ago, when the CEL would come on and off intermittently, and the engine was running, I tried to retrieve the trouble codes, and I had the same problem....the CEL would just turn off when I removed the jumper.
So, after all of this, I'm thinking that either my crank sensor or my ECU is bad, and I'm leaning toward my ECU. Is there anything else that I can do to definitively figure out what is wrong? The crank sensor looks like its going to be a whole lot of "fun" to replace, and I don't want to do it unless I have to.
Thanks,
Cameron


----------



## FL 2.0L (Aug 1, 2002)

The crank sensor is not hard to replace. Just loosen the front mount with the engine supprted, remove the oil filter and replace it. Sorry I don't have anything else to contribute.


----------



## cgrossl (Mar 21, 2010)

*Re: 1995 Golf 2.0 Won't Start.....No Spark (cgrossl)*

Well, I decided to try changing the ECU, but it didn't change a thing. The car still wont' start, and there is no spark. I tried jumpering pins 4 and 15 on the diagnostic port to see if I could get any trouble codes, but I got the same result as I did with the other computer. When I removed the jumper, the CEL just went out. I'm apparently doing something wrong, I just don't know what.
So, I'm now leaning toward the crank sensor, but I have one question before I change it. When I crank the engine with the starter, the tachometer needle does come up a little. Seems like I read somewhere that this indicated that the crank sensor was working. Is this true?
Thanks,
Cameron


----------



## georgekelp (Aug 15, 2005)

*Re: 1995 Golf 2.0 Won't Start.....No Spark (cgrossl)*

So you aren't getting spark at the spark plugs nor out of the coil?


----------



## cgrossl (Mar 21, 2010)

*Re: 1995 Golf 2.0 Won't Start.....No Spark (georgekelp)*

No, I'm not getting any spark, anywhere. The car was running fine when I shut it off, and it never hit again. I did try replacing the coil, but it didn't change anything, so I returned it.


----------



## cgrossl (Mar 21, 2010)

*Re: 1995 Golf 2.0 Won't Start.....No Spark (cgrossl)*

Bump


----------



## jorge r (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: 1995 Golf 2.0 Won't Start.....No Spark (cgrossl)*

do the led test light thing on the fuel injector and the ignition coil, it seems the crankshaft position sensor is working but testing with l.e.d. should say, and you computer may still be bad.


----------



## cgrossl (Mar 21, 2010)

*Re: 1995 Golf 2.0 Won't Start.....No Spark (jorge r)*

I think I understand what you are trying to find out, but I wanted to make sure. I'm used to old hot rods with carburetors, and the whole computer controlled engine diagnosis is still new to me. In other words, I know just enough to be dangerous.
When I test a fuel injector with a test light, I would think that it should blink on and off, while the engine is being cranked. But should it blink while testing the coil? I thought the coil received constant power.


----------



## jorge r (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: 1995 Golf 2.0 Won't Start.....No Spark (cgrossl)*

I'm old school too. You can pick up on ECM kind of stuff.
The signal to the injectors and the ignition coil is in miliseconds, so a regular light bulb can't be used. A quick acting, low current led is used. The power an led consumes will not harm the ECM. The signal to the injectors and ignition coil come from the ECM and is generated by the signal from the hall sensor on the crankshaft or crankshaft position sensor.
The coil has constant power to it and some electronics in it, the power control module, switches the power to the coil. The coil has constant power and switching signal to the electronics.
Faulty wiring/connections can also cause no spark.










_Modified by jorge r at 11:41 AM 4-7-2010_


----------



## onewiper (Aug 29, 2002)

Have you checked your timing belt, pull the dist. cap and have somebody crank your engine for you and check to see if your rotor is turning.


----------



## super_chief (Aug 16, 2008)

having a similar issue


----------



## cgrossl (Mar 21, 2010)

*Re: (super_chief)*

I have checked the timing belt. It is still in one piece. I bought the LED and some alligator clips yesterday. I haven't got around to checking for blinking lights yet though.


----------



## jorge r (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: (cgrossl)*

The led, should be rated for 12 volts. An led right out of the package is rated for 20-40 miliamps, so a 300 ohm resistor should be used in series with the led or the led will burn up intantly on 12 volts.
Radio Shack has a 12V led, it already has a resistor. I just bought a test light with an led in it instead of a 12V tungsten lamp. You an build your own.


----------



## Jasperstam89 (Mar 20, 2011)

has anyone resolved this? 
I have the same problem. 
I'm about to try to install a new Crank sensor, hopefully it works. 
I already replaced my Coil, Wires, Distributor, cap, rotor, etc. I hope this works.


----------



## skip57 (Nov 7, 2008)

You found an old post but if it fits go for it. Have you check the crank sensor (engine speed sensor) with an OHM meter it should read 500-700 OHMs. There are a lot of post like this one. read the latest ones with high milage they had bad ignition switch. look for wont start / no spark


----------



## VeeDoubleYouGuy (Nov 4, 2003)

i think that a bad ign switch will usually cause a no crank. tough call here but did you check the engine electronics fuse? also, the hall effect sensor is on the same wire as the crank sensor. you should check that there are no breaks in the wires. the crank sensor should show a good tach signal when cranking. is there fuel smell from the exhaust when cranking?


----------



## skip57 (Nov 7, 2008)

My 97 would crank like h^&l but had no spark unless lifted the key to the dash and then it would start.


----------



## dscot15 (Mar 28, 2011)

*1998 VW Golf 2.0 GTI 5-speed: Engine turns over but won't start*

I'm having a similar problem to the ones described here in previous posts; we were away for 6 weeks and I neglected to disconnect the battery. When I returned, the battery was dead and the immobilizer that was installed post-market would not work. I charged the car battery, put new batteries in the immobilizer. The engine would turn over but not start. I checked for a spark, but had nothing coming from the plug caps. I checked the coil and had noting there either, so I replaced the coil and cables and the car started right up for about 10 times—then it didn't. I cleaned/replaced all of the remaining cables and the car started up about 10 more times—then it didn't. Can any of this be attributed to a faulty distributor or a problem with the immobilzer? I've had the car towed to mechanic as I've reached the limit of mechanical ability and this is his theory, but it just doesn't sound right to me. Thanks!


----------



## volkswhisperer (Sep 25, 2006)

Turn the key to On. Place in neutral.
Jump the solenoid at starter. If it starts, your ignition switch is bad.
If still no start, ohm out the red and green wire at the CPS connector which is in front on top of motor mount. You should get around 600 ohms


----------



## onewiper (Aug 29, 2002)

Just because the belt is in one piece does not mean it's not broken, the teeth can strip cause same issue as broken belt. To test for a faulty ignition switch run a wire from the positive post on the battery to positive on the coil. VW have a 2 position switch, ignition when cranking and ignition when running. Ignition when cranking can burn out and is common.


----------

