# Boost issues with vagcom logs.



## Mykal (Sep 7, 2012)

Am I doing this right? Ive been trying to read to make sure I came with the info I needed.

This log is from a full 3rd, 4th and 5th gear pull. On this log the boost never faded or hit fuel cut.
http://db.tt/ziO8c86A

This log is a lot longer. It starts with a 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear pull. Then I left it running while driving on the interstate in various gears and loads. It finally hit fuel cut and seemed to stay in limp mode for a good part of it.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/72mfw1a9j3ddsca/LOG-01-114-115-113.CSV

If there is a better way to share this information let met know. 

Thoughts?


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

just realized I don't have excel... have to wait till I get to work to look at it :banghead:


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## Mykal (Sep 7, 2012)

No problem. Thanks for taking a look. 

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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

I graphed out your logs...I haven't done this in ages, and i'm sure someone else can do a lot better at it. 











But it appears, as you may already know, you're over boosting. big time. What is your set up? are you chipped? 

I had a similar issue with my Uni 1 where I would go over by a psi or two, and it would put me in limp mode...that's when I took out the N249...

but the two logs are the same...


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## Mykal (Sep 7, 2012)

Completely stock.
Only things i did was remove n249 and the sai. 

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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Mykal said:


> Completely stock.
> Only things i did was remove n249 and the sai.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


Is the N249 resisted? Because I think that if you didnt, or used a bad resistor, that could cause you to hit limp.


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## Mykal (Sep 7, 2012)

Updated first log link. 

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## Mykal (Sep 7, 2012)

It is not. I capped it and left it plugged in. 
This problem was occuring before i removed the n249. 

To be sure im using the correct terms im talking about the small bundle of lines on the valve cover with a metal bracket. 

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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Mykal said:


> It is not. I capped it and left it plugged in.
> This problem was occuring before i removed the n249.
> 
> To be sure im using the correct terms im talking about the small bundle of lines on the valve cover with a metal bracket.
> ...


Hmmmm.. Id be interested in seeing if your problems go away after adding a resistor though. Have you messed with the WG actuator adjustment at all?


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## Mykal (Sep 7, 2012)

Ill order a resistor in. 
I have not touched the waste gate. 

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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

i'd look at your N75 valve... that's what really controlling the boost. The N249 is just releasing it once it's gets outta control 

Try another N75 (if you have a friends you can borrow) and reconnect your N249. 
Also check the lines to the N75...the one going to the waste gate and the one to the charge pipe...make sure there's no leaks. 



What's funny is that i thought I the stock tune didn't request any more than 12 psi...


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

you're spooling up, and the waste gate must not be opening to slow things down and keep the boost at the requested amount... no?


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Krissrock said:


> i'd look at your N75 valve... that's what really controlling the boost. The N249 is just releasing it once it's gets outta control
> 
> Try another N75 (if you have a friends you can borrow) and reconnect your N249.
> Also check the lines to the N75...the one going to the waste gate and the one to the charge pipe...make sure there's no leaks.
> ...


Thats why I asked if he has touched the WG adjustment.


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## Mykal (Sep 7, 2012)

Krissrock said:


> i'd look at your N75 valve... that's what really controlling the boost. The N249 is just releasing it once it's gets outta control
> 
> Try another N75 (if you have a friends you can borrow) and reconnect your N249.
> Also check the lines to the N75...the one going to the waste gate and the one to the charge pipe...make sure there's no leaks.
> ...


Will order another n75. Any way to test this one? 
No n249 to put back on. Hoses were garbage. I dont want to replace hoses just to rip them back off. 
Will check the lines as well. 
Boost gauge going in next week. 

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## Mykal (Sep 7, 2012)

Called a local audi dealer. They seem to think its the waste gate actuator. Guess i need to get it on the rack to make sure its functioning. The problem is intermittent so im not sure how to check for a definite operation. 

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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Mykal said:


> Called a local audi dealer. They seem to think its the waste gate actuator. Guess i need to get it on the rack to make sure its functioning. The problem is intermittent so im not sure how to check for a definite operation.


Just use a compressor to supply air to the WG actuator line. You should be able to see/observe it from above with no need for a lift. Make sure it moves, isn't binding/catching, and has consistent response.


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## Mykal (Sep 7, 2012)

Hooked up a boost gauge tonight. Went for a very short drive through town.
At idle Im sitting at 19 in/hg. On decel Im sitting at 22 in/hg.
The first pull 1st and 2nd gear hit 7 psi of boost each, 3rd gear pulled to about 19 psi without cutting fuel.
The second pull 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear were hitting about 19 psi without cutting fuel.

I still need to put some air to the wastegate actuator to make sure its moving. My fear with this is that my problem is erratic. Sometimes it boosts fine and 5 minutes later I hit fuel cut and stay there for a while sometimes it starts boosting again right away. 

I really dont want to just start throwing parts at this thing. Sooo frustrating.


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## racin2redline (Sep 25, 2008)

I can relate to the aggravation. Except the problem isn't my TT it's my allroad.... Replaced the n75 , cleaned the MAF. Checked all vacuum. Tried unplugging the MAF. Still tries to boost to the moon ? 
With vag com you can test the N75 under modules. You can hear it clicking in the engine bay if it's functioning properly. I hope your problem is easier to solve!


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

yeah, no way you should be hitting 19 on a stock car...i'm surprised you can even go that far without it cutting...

my TT only 12 psi when it was stock...although, I've heard that other ppl were getting 14-15 stock...


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## Mykal (Sep 7, 2012)

After running it on the highway.. 
It will hit 21 psi and hit fuel cut. 
If it peaks at 19 psi it will hold at about 15 when in 4, 5, 6 gears. 
It will peak at about 17 psi and hold about 12 in lower gears. 
Otherwise it will peak and hold at 7 psi after fuel cut. 

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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

Krissrock said:


> yeah, no way you should be hitting 19 on a stock car...i'm surprised you can even go that far without it cutting...
> 
> my TT only 12 psi when it was stock...although, I've heard that other ppl were getting 14-15 stock...


Stock 225's are tuned for 1 bar or just a hair under 15 psi whereas the 180s are a few psi short of that. Mykal, out of curiosity, what do fuel trims look like (block 32 in VCDS)?


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## Mykal (Sep 7, 2012)

Boulderhead said:


> Stock 225's are tuned for 1 bar or just a hair under 15 psi whereas the 180s are a few psi short of that. Mykal, out of curiosity, what do fuel trims look like (block 32 in VCDS)?


Ill try to get a log tomorrow evening but honestly probably wont until Wednesday. My family and I have BJJ class tomorrow night after work. :thumbup:


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

Mykal said:


> Ill try to get a log tomorrow evening but honestly probably wont until Wednesday. My family and I have BJJ class tomorrow night after work. :thumbup:


Nice, that's a helluva way to spend time with family.... Whooping each others asses


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## Mykal (Sep 7, 2012)

Drove an hour North to South Hills Audi to let their master tech take a look at it.
They told me they could not diagnose it because the N249, SAI and N112 were disconnected and that was part of my problem with the system not working correctly. 
I remembered to take the Vagcom cable but forgot the laptop so I didnt get any logs.
BJJ tomorrow. Ill do it Friday.


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## Mykal (Sep 7, 2012)

I put air to the waste gate actuator. Rod moved freely. Did not appear to be sticking or binding and appeared to snap shut.

I did manage to tear the diverter valve diaphragm though. 

Resistors will be here at the end of the week. Ill put them on for the N249 and SAI delete I did.

I didnt forget about the fuel trims. Im going to put the resistors in then log it.


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

It would be good to check your fuel trims before you do anything else just to have a baseline number of where you are right now. You are interested in the second value which tells you fuel adjustment under driving conditions except WOT and idle.

Sorry I missed the post about you buying resistors, as I have 8 of them laying around from when I bought mine... Do you also need a new diverter valve? ( I still have my stock one)


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## Mykal (Sep 7, 2012)

Boulderhead said:


> It would be good to check your fuel trims before you do anything else just to have a baseline number of where you are right now. You are interested in the second value which tells you fuel adjustment under driving conditions except WOT and idle.
> 
> Sorry I missed the post about you buying resistors, as I have 8 of them laying around from when I bought mine... Do you also need a new diverter valve? ( I still have my stock one)


Understood. Good point. Ill log it. 
Yes i need a dv as well. Name your price. 

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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

Mykal said:


> Understood. Good point. Ill log it.
> Yes i need a dv as well. Name your price.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


You know my price :laugh: I will drop you a PM when it gets sent out tomorrow


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## Mykal (Sep 7, 2012)

Boulderhead said:


> You know my price :laugh: I will drop you a PM when it gets sent out tomorrow


Much appreciated! :thumbup:


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

if your SAI, N249, and all are gone, what do you have your DV hooked up to? and what do you have your waste gate connected to...?

I thought u were stock...sory i haven't kept up on this thread in a while. 

if you don't have your N49 in, then you must have your DV connected directly to the manifold. BUT you also must have your waste gate connected to the N75 with no leaks, and no leaks in the line to the waste gate that gets the feedback as to what you're boosting.(the line that comes from the charge pipe) 

having the n249 out will leave boost levels completely to managed by the waste gate, as the DV can only be operated manually by the manifold vacuum/pressure (n249 is no longer able to actuate the DV to prevent overboosting). so it's really important to make sure the Lines to/from your N75 are correct, and in good condition.


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## Mykal (Sep 7, 2012)

Krissrock said:


> if your SAI, N249, and all are gone, what do you have your DV hooked up to? and what do you have your waste gate connected to...?
> Diverter Valve top vacuum line goes to the far left nipple under the manifold.
> Wastegate is connected to the N75. Bottom port I believe.





Krissrock said:


> I thought u were stock...sory i haven't kept up on this thread in a while.


Stock as in tune and no added after market parts. Sorry for the confusion.
No worries at all. Everyone gets busy and Im just grateful the tremendous amount of help I have gotten. 



Krissrock said:


> if you don't have your N49 in, then you must have your DV connected directly to the manifold. BUT you also must have your waste gate connected to the N75 with no leaks, and no leaks in the line to the waste gate that gets the feedback as to what you're boosting.(the line that comes from the charge pipe)


According to the Boost gauge I have no leaks. I still need to do an official test on the lines how ever.



Krissrock said:


> having the n249 out will leave boost levels completely to managed by the waste gate, as the DV can only be operated manually by the manifold vacuum/pressure (n249 is no longer able to actuate the DV to prevent overboosting). so it's really important to make sure the Lines to/from your N75 are correct, and in good condition.


Understood.

So I need to log fuel trims. I did this last night but it was at full throttle and I didnt realize until after I got home that I need to log it while just driving.
And I need to do an actual vacuum leak check on the lines.


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

Fuel trims can be obtained with the car off (key on and VCDS connected). What you are looking for is the second value in block 32. This is a long term average (from last code reset) of what the ECU is telling the injectors to do under part throttle (open longer... open less). 

These 3 conditions will not affect this value.

1. WOT
2. Deceleration.. (no throttle)
3. Idle 

The first value in block 32 is for conditions at idle, and a positive number here sends me searching for obvious vacuum leaks. I totally missed dropping off the DV today, but I will do it tomorrow. CAn you let us know what those values in block 32 show? If you have an AMU (pretty sure you do) then you are Narrow Band o2 which measures a bit differently than a true wide-band sensor.


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## toy4two2 (Feb 6, 2012)

racin2redline said:


> I can relate to the aggravation. Except the problem isn't my TT it's my allroad.... Replaced the n75 , cleaned the MAF. Checked all vacuum. Tried unplugging the MAF. Still tries to boost to the moon ?
> With vag com you can test the N75 under modules. You can hear it clicking in the engine bay if it's functioning properly. I hope your problem is easier to solve!


I bought an BoostValve V2 Overboost Correction kit to stop my car from hitting limp. This was after a new "E" revision (latest) N75 valve and the usual troubleshooting. I tried everything and this was the solution.

Note I have a bigger turbo. If this is happening on a stock car the waste gate actuator is shot, or more likely there is a leak in the line between the N75 and the waste gate actuator. Less likely is the wastegage actuator is sticking. 

Pull off the hot hard boost pipe, the turbo elbow on the output of the turbo, the turbo elbow cloth snap covering and that stupid hard boost pipe bracket with the two allen head bolts. Now you can get your arm onto the wastegate actuator connected to the turbo. Yank on the adjustment arm and should move freely back and forth, does it get stuck? Next disconnect the hose that connects to that actuator your tugged on and poor test is to blow into it, does it hold pressure, correct test is to hookup one of those 40 dollar harbor freight hot dog air compressors and using the squeeze trigger air tool pressurize the line and the actuator should snap back and forth.

After you do the above we can help you fix it.


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## toy4two2 (Feb 6, 2012)

Krissrock said:


> yeah, no way you should be hitting 19 on a stock car...i'm surprised you can even go that far without it cutting...
> 
> my TT only 12 psi when it was stock...although, I've heard that other ppl were getting 14-15 stock...


hehe when I bought my car I had no idea I was chipped then i got a boost guage. then for its and giggles I tried the APR chip program switching with my cruise control switch and what do you know it let me switch between stock and a high octane program! So if he isn't the original owner he might have a chip, unfortunately unless its APR there is no way to know.


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## Mykal (Sep 7, 2012)

Boulderhead said:


> Fuel trims can be obtained with the car off (key on and VCDS connected). What you are looking for is the second value in block 32. This is a long term average (from last code reset) of what the ECU is telling the injectors to do under part throttle (open longer... open less).
> 
> These 3 conditions will not affect this value.
> 
> ...


Will check and post after bjj class. Great info. Thank you. 



toy4two2 said:


> hehe when I bought my car I had no idea I was chipped then i got a boost guage. then for its and giggles I tried the APR chip program switching with my cruise control switch and what do you know it let me switch between stock and a high octane program! So if he isn't the original owner he might have a chip, unfortunately unless its APR there is no way to know.


Im the 2nd owner. I tracked down the first owner. Older gentleman. He said he didnt chip it. 


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## Mykal (Sep 7, 2012)




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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

Looks Ok... A bit high, but not the 25% which will put you in limp. The adjustment may be due to the extra air being stuffed into the motor form the overboost.

Idle value looks fine. You should note if this value does hit +/-25% you will be in limp mode. If this is anything like I experienced, you may be in limp for 20 mins or 2 mins depending on exactly when that number moves away from 25 back towards 0 ( it's constantly adjusting based on driving conditions).


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## Mykal (Sep 7, 2012)

Right on. 
This weekend will be either putting the n249 back minus the n211 lines or putting the resistors on the n249 plug and the sai pump plug.
IF I have time.

One step at a time.


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## Mykal (Sep 7, 2012)

Mykal said:


> Right on.
> This weekend will be either putting the n249 back minus the n211 lines or putting the resistors on the n249 plug and the sai pump plug.
> IF I have time.
> 
> One step at a time.


Placed resistor at sai pump plug.
Ordered OEM 058906283F N75 from Amazon.


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## Mykal (Sep 7, 2012)

Ordered n75 f off of amazon. 
Recieved this. 
Amazon on left with gold bracket. Oem on right with black bracket.
Googling the different N75 versions shows me that F came with a black bracket and C and J came with gold brackets. Opinions?
Any other way to tell if its correct or just return it? 









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## Mykal (Sep 7, 2012)

Submitted for return approval. Have to wait 48 hours for decision. Meh.

Still get CEL on cold start up after adding SAI pump resistor.
Debating on adding N249 back or doing the resistor.


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

Mykal said:


> Submitted for return approval. Have to wait 48 hours for decision. Meh.
> 
> Still get CEL on cold start up after adding SAI pump resistor.
> Debating on adding N249 back or doing the resistor.


What codes are you getting? From my understanding you can't simply resist the SAI system as the ECU is expecting a different reading from the post cat 02 sensor when engaged, versus when it isn't engaged (warm start).

Basically at cold start the ECU is expecting a lean reading post cat as we are injecting unmetered air into exhaust stream. After ECU tells the pump to stop the reading should go back to "normal" operating conditions.

You can resist N249 without CEL, but other evap components not so much as the ECU has other ways to snitch on those components which are only resisted.

EDIT: can you also grab a screenshot of your Readiness screen for the Engine module in VCDS?


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## Mykal (Sep 7, 2012)

Boulderhead said:


> What codes are you getting? From my understanding you can't simply resist the SAI system as the ECU is expecting a different reading from the post cat 02 sensor when engaged, versus when it isn't engaged (warm start).
> 
> Basically at cold start the ECU is expecting a lean reading post cat as we are injecting unmetered air into exhaust stream. After ECU tells the pump to stop the reading should go back to "normal" operating conditions.
> 
> ...




Monday,21,October,2013,21:25:18:49616
VCDS Version: Release 12.12.0

Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AMU.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 8N0 906 018 K
Component and/or Version: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0003
Software Coding: 06710
Work Shop Code: WSC 01236 
Additional Info: TRUWT28NX11018861 AUZ5Z0Y9112060
VCID: 39772989239842D693D-513C
1 Fault Found:

16795 - Secondary Air Injection System 
P0411 - 35-00 - Incorrect Flow Detected

Readiness: 0010 0101

-

Readiness first test.









-
Then I went through some of these tests. Upon 6. Closed loop fuel control test block 107
I got (for the first time ever) 17519 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Regulation: Bank 1 P1111 - 35-00 - System too Lean










Monday,21,October,2013,21:42:06:49616
VCDS Version: Release 12.12.0

Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AMU.LBL
Control Module Part Number: 8N0 906 018 K
Component and/or Version: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0003
Software Coding: 06710
Work Shop Code: WSC 01236 
Additional Info: TRUWT28NX11018861 AUZ5Z0Y9112060
VCID: 39772989239842D693D-513C
1 Fault Found:

17519 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Regulation: Bank 1 
P1111 - 35-00 - System too Lean

Readiness: 0010 0101

-

That gave me this for readiness.










-


Cleared that code and did readiness again.











The failed evap may because I did not let the test complete and some of the tests I was not at correct temperature for them. This is at a cold idle.


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

Clearing the codes will rest Readiness... But yes, the classic incorrect flow is because of SAI being blocked off. Only the tuners have beat this one to the best of my knowledge because you can't simply resist it.


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