# My Big Turbo 1.8T 4Motion Passat Build Thread



## RmL1.8T (Jul 21, 2009)

Hi everybody.

I wanted to take the opportunity to share a project that I have been working on for a little while now…a big turbo 4motion B5.5 Passat.

A little about myself: I grew up in NJ, went to school in PA for mechanical engineering, and moved to southeast CT about two years ago where I work as a structural engineer. Last year, I started looking for a Passat with a 1.8T, 4motion, and a 5-speed. This configuration was only available in 2004 which certainly limited my options but after a few months of searching, one showed up for sale in northern CT. The previous owner took excellent care of the car and I bought it on the spot. 

My first project! A 2004 Passat with a 1.8T, 4motion, a 5-speed and 110,000 miles on the clock.










The plan: Big turbo and 400awhp 

Current Parts List (in progress, haven’t worked out all the details yet):

Block
Wiseco Forged Pistons (stock bore and stroke)
IE 144x20 Connecting Rods (w/ rifle drilling)
ARP Main Studs
ARP Head Studs 
OEM Main & Rod Bearings
ARP Crank Bolt
IE Billet Timing Gear
IE Manual Timing Belt Tensioner Kit
New OEM water pump, front main seal, and rear main seal

Head
AEB head (bought used from someone on Audizine, 150k miles on it)
Supertech Exhaust Valves (Stainless Steel)
Supertech Valve Springs & Retainers
IE Valve Guides
IE Intake & Exhaust Stem Seals

Turbo
GT3071R

Fueling/Intake
TBD on the injectors/fuel pump (1000cc???)
SEM Intake Manifold
70mm Throttle Body
Treadstone Intercooler 

Drivetrain
Clutchmasters FX400 (Full Face)
Clucthmasters Steel Flywheel
ARP Flywheel Bolts 

Soon after I purchased the car, I moved it into the garage where it would be at home for quite some time.










Beginning the disassembly…

Lock carrier removed.

















(with my buddy’s Nissan hardbody SR20DET swapped drift truck project in the background)

I didn’t take a lot of exciting pictures as I continued to disconnect things in preparation of pulling the engine. A lot of close ups of connections/wiring/plumbing so I remember how it all goes back together. So fast forward a couple steps and….

Engine coming out!


















After taking the clutch and flywheel off.









On the engine stand. Transferring the engine from the hoist to the stand proved to be a lot more difficult than I expected with just one person…


















Removing a bunch of accessories and the valve cover.


















Doesn’t look too bad at all for 110k miles! I had picked up an AEB head which I’m planning on using though.









Marking TDC on the cam sprocket and timing belt for reference. 









Similar marks on the crank dampener. 









One more shot before removing the timing belt. 









After that, I removed the head bolts per the sequence in Bentley and popped off the head.

















Cylinders looked pretty good. I could still see the original cross hatch.

Upside down to remove the oil pump.









Oil pump removed (Sorry for the blurry pic)









Crankshaft, rods and pistons removed.









Just about fully stripped block.









Stock rods and pistons. Won’t be needing these again!









Crankshaft. 









One more picture of the block.









I bought an AEB head from an Audizine member for $300. The head has 150k miles on it and looks to be in good shape. 









Beginning to disassemble the AEB head.









Camshafts removed.


















Moved the head to the garage for valve/valve spring removal.









Just a collection of miscellaneous engine parts.









My buddy and his drift truck project moved out so I relocated the Passat project to the other side of the garage where there was a little more room. The new set up:









Car parts. Some old, some new!









With the head and block fully disassembled, it was time for the fun part to begin. First step was a trip to the machine shop. Luckily, there is a very well respected machine shop not too far from me- Larry’s Auto in Groton. They work on everything from big block Chevy’s to 700hp Subarus to Volvos. I swung by and talked to them about my project and what I wanted done. 

I had the head clean, resurfaced, and new valve guides installed. The block was cleaned, decked, and the cylinders were honed. Total cost was a little over $700. Not the cheapest place around but they do top notch work and have a stellar reputation. 









I picked the head and block up this week and I couldn’t be happier with how they turned out. 


























































































And some parts waiting to go in…


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## RmL1.8T (Jul 21, 2009)

A friend had a dial bore gauge that he let me borrow so I used that to take some cylinder bore measurements. I've already had the block machined and the pistons ordered so these measurements are really just out of curiosity/learning how to use a bore gauge.

I took measurements at the top, middle, and bottom of the cylinders. At each location I measured parallel to the crankshaft axis (longitudinal) and perpendicular to the crankshaft axis (side to side). 










I used calipers to calibrate the bore gauge. I can’t imagine Harbor Freight calipers are the most accurate tools on the planet so I’m hesitant trusting the bore measurements past a thousandth of an inch.

Bore measurements:


Difference from nominal bore. Bentley specifies a maximum wear limit of 0.0031” from the nominal bore so everything is within spec.


Out-of-roundness and taper of the cylinders was minimal which is good.

Out-of-roundness is the longitudinal measurement minus the side-to-side measurement. Taper is the difference in diameter compared to the diameter at the top of the cylinder.


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## RmL1.8T (Jul 21, 2009)

Starting to assemble the block.

All the engine parts bagged and tagged from disassembly.


Block back on the engine stand.




Oil squirters installed and torqued to 20 ft-lbs.


ARP main studs installed. Per the instructions, threads are oiled and tightened in the block. No torque spec given.


OEM main bearings put it and lubed up with assembly lube.


Dropped the crank in after a thorough cleaning of all the bearing surfaces. 




Main caps and bearings ready to go on. No assembly lube applied yet as I'll be using plastigage to check the clearances.


I applied plastigage to the main journals and installed the main caps. The ARP nuts were torqued to 60 ft-lbs in three stages (20, 40, 60 ft-lbs). Once that was complete, I removed the main caps and measured the plastigage.

Checking main #1.


All five main cap bearings with the plastigage.


Main bearing clearances: 
#1: 0.0020"
#2: 0.0020"
#3: 0.0018"
#4: 0.0017"
#5: 0.0020"

The measurements for #3 and #4 were in between the .0015 and .002 markings so I estimated.

Main bearing clearances look good. 

I cleaned the plastigage off of all the surfaces and lubed up the main cap bearings for final installation.


Main caps installed and torqued.






Spins nice and free (click for video)


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## RmL1.8T (Jul 21, 2009)

I spent the last week or so working on assembly/installing the rods and pistons. Definitely the most tedious aspect of this project so far.

Wiseco forged pistons (20mm wrist pins) and Integrated Engineering connecting rods.




Wrist pins and contact surfaces in the pistons were cleaned and lubed up with assembly lube. The new circlips were installed to lock the wrist pins in place. Getting the circlips in was kinda a pain, took me about two hours to assembly all the rods and pistons.

Assembled.




Stock rod and piston vs. new rod and piston. 


Getting ready to start gapping the piston rings. Piston rings are in order from top to bottom (top compression ring, bottom compression ring, top oil rail, oil expander, bpttom oil rail).


After having no success filing the rings with a hand file, I gave in and bought the $50 tool from JEGS. Probably should have done this from the start, the tool made filing the rings go a lot smoother.


Squaring a piston ring in the cylinder.


I used the end of a dial caliper to ensure the rings were as square as possible before checking the gap.


Checking ring gap with a feeler gauge.


Wiseco provides instructions of how to determine the appropriate ring gap. For a "stree-moderate turbo/nitrous" engine, I would multiply the bore size (3.1984") by 0.0050 for the top compression ring and 0.0055 for the bottom ring. This results in a desired gap of about 0.016" and 0.018" top and bottom respectively. However, the bottom compression rings came out of the box at 0.020-0.022". I decided to gap the bottom rings at 0.023" and the top rings at 0.020". A little larger than the Wiseco specs but it seems to be consistent with what other have done. 

The top and bottom oil rails just had to be gapped larger than 0.010" which they all were out of the box. The ends of the oil expander had to be butted (not overlapped).

Piston ring side clearance was checked against the Wiseco specs and the rings were clocked per the instructions.


Assembled rods & pistons and their corresponding rings after gapping! Took me about 4 hours to gap all the rings.


ARP rod bolts come with the IE rods. Instructions say to torque the rod bolts to 50 ft-lbs three times. I was curious why the bolts were torqued three times so I shot an email to the guys at IE. I learned that doing three separate torque sequences allows the bolt head to fully seat against the rod and it ensures a consistent torque reading by the third sequence. 

Started installing the pistons and rods into the block. Checked the rod bearing clearances with plastigage after the first torque sequence to 50 ft-lbs.


Rod bearing radial clearances looked good. The Bentley specifies 0.0004"-0.0020" as the acceptable range.

#1 rod: 0.018"
#2 rod: 0.017"
#3 rod: 0.018"
#4 rod: 0.019"

Checking the side clearance with a feeler gauge. Side clearance was 0.006" for all the rods which is good (Bentley specifies 0.0028"-0.0122" as the range)


Rods and pistons installed!














Quick video of everything rotating. The jerky-ness of the pistons is from me trying to rotate the crank and hold the camera at the same time :banghead:


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## RmL1.8T (Jul 21, 2009)

More assembly of the block. First up was installing the water pump.

New OEM water pump with metal impeller and bolts.


Installed. I applied a light coating of coolant to the new o-ring, you can see a little bit of the coolant dripping down the block.


Next up was the oil pump. The old oil pickup tube had some debris caught in the mesh. 


Unidentified objects from the pickup tube.


I bought a new pickup tube and o-ring for the oil pump.


Oil pump, chain, and tensioner installed.




With the baffle on.




New front main seal. I damaged the old seal taking it off during disassembly. I didn't want to deal with pressing in a new seal so I bought the new seal and housing. 


Sealant applied.


Front main seal installed.


Everything is starting to come together!


Integrated Engineering billet timing gear and ARP crank bolt. Shouldn't have any timing related failures with these plus IE's manual timing belt tensioner kit.


During disassembly, I made a tool to hold the the crank in place as I removed the crank bolt. It's simply 1/8" thick angle iron with holes cut out for the timing gear and crank pulley bolts.


Tool in place.


The angle iron gets wedged against the bottom of the engine stand to prevent rotation.


The crank bolt is the highest torque bolt I've encountered so far. The IE instructions specify 74 ft-lbs (with oil lubricant) plus 1/4 turn. As IE indicated in their instructions, the last 1/4 turn is TOUGH. My set-up for getting the bolt torqued: Jack handle on the breaker bar with the engine stand legs wedged underneath the work bench to keep the stand from tipping over. I actually wore safety goggles during this because I was afraid the breaker bar was going to shatter (it didn't).


Timing gear and bolt installed.


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

Awesome build so far - well organized and thorough... great to see how much detail is going into this :thumbup:


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

Subbed. Many of the things I didn't do to mine but will if I ever tear into it again.


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Badass keep up the good work subbed


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## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

*Great work.*

Reminds me of when I went through this 18 months ago. Subbed.


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## RmL1.8T (Jul 21, 2009)

All_Euro said:


> Awesome build so far - well organized and thorough... great to see how much detail is going into this :thumbup:





Brake Weight said:


> Subbed. Many of the things I didn't do to mine but will if I ever tear into it again.





BR_337 said:


> Badass keep up the good work subbed





ramone23456 said:


> Reminds me of when I went through this 18 months ago. Subbed.


Thanks guys!

I did a little more assembly over the past couple nights.

New rear main seal.


When the block is on the engine stand, the stand prevents putting the rear main seal on so I had to lay the block on the work bench.


Oil pan was next to go on. The pan before cleaning:




I sprayed degreaser on the oil pan and scrubbed away the some of the oil sludge that wasn't caked on too heavily. After that, I let the oil pan soak in a simple green solution overnight (1 gallon of simple green and 5 gallons of water).


The simple green worked really well on the inside of the pan. It looks almost spotless.


Outside of the pan looks pretty good too.


New drain plug with a magnetic pickup. It's blue for extra horsepower 


Applied sealant and bolted on the oil pan.


Next I installed the idler roller from IE's manual timing belt tensioner kit.




Done assembling the block for now. Next up is the head.


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## sleepy1.8t (Sep 5, 2013)

moooooooooore


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## benzivr6 (Feb 16, 2001)

:thumbup:


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## Plisken (Oct 19, 2008)

Can't wait to see what's coming next ! opcorn:


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## CD155MX (Dec 18, 2007)

Great work so far. Subscribed and looking forward to updates. :thumbup:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Yesssssss


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## 1980saltlife (Jun 18, 2015)

:thumbup:


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## RmL1.8T (Jul 21, 2009)

I made some progress on the head this past week.

I bought Supertech exhaust valves, Supertech valve springs & retainers, Integrated Engineering stem seals, and I'm reusing the oem intake valves.

First up was cleaning up the intake valves. I used a small wire wheel attached to a drill to remove some of the build up.


Typical before and after results.




After cleaning the intake valves, I lapped the intake and exhaust valves to make sure I get a good seal between the valve and the valve seat. Lapping twenty valves definitely took a while 


After that I thoroughly cleaned the head to remove all the grinding compound and to prepare for the valve installation. Parts ready to go in:


First up was the valve stem seals. I bought a tool from Amazon to install the seals. It was less than $20 and definitely worth it.

Exhaust stem seal on the tool.


The end of the tool goes inside the valve guide. A couple taps with a mallet and the stem seal is seated on the guide :thumbup:


A couple of the exhaust stem seals installed.


A closeup shot of one of the seals on the valve guide.


After installing all the stem seals, I started installing the exhaust valves and springs. The Supertech exhaust springs have an outer and inner spring. In this picture are the exhaust springs, exhaust valve, retainer, inner spring seat, and keepers.


Another Amazon purchase. I wanted to use a C clamp style compressor because I could set it in place and use two hands to install the keepers which was definitely necessary.


Spring compressor in place. With the compressor in place I used two small picks to maneuver the keepers onto the valve stem. 


Intake valve, spring, retainer, and keepers ready to go in.


All the valves and springs installed!








All in all, I think I spent 20+ hours in total working on the head this past week. :thumbup:


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

RmL1.8T said:


> ...All in all, I think I spent 20+ hours in total working on the head this past week. :thumbup:


Nice work though and not something you want to have to pull apart and redo... the keepers are _“fun"_ to install till you get the hang of them.


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## sleepy1.8t (Sep 5, 2013)

RmL1.8T said:


> I made some progress on the head this past week.


man, that is beautiful. this really makes me miss my old Passat. I had one of the 5speed 4motion ones too... wrecked it :banghead:


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## RmL1.8T (Jul 21, 2009)

Some progress updates from the past couple weeks. I was waiting on parts to arrive for a little bit.

I did decide that I am going to go ahead and swap out the 5-speed for a 6-speed (01E) transmission. I don't want the 5-speed to be a limiting factor for power. The 01E swap requires an 01E trans, driveshaft from an auto passat (plus a spacer), 4.11 rear diff, and axles. I'm going to make custom mount brackets to bolt the 01E to the original trans mounts. 

Pulling the 5-speed transmission out of the car. After some maneuvering, the trans was out.


5-speed (left) vs. 6-speed (right) next to the stock driveshaft and rear diff.




New drivetrain next to the old.





And now on to the fun stuff. I reached out to Arnold at PPT to discuss turbo kits. Arnold was super helpful and after a couple rounds of questions, I pulled the trigger and placed an order for one of his longitudinal 1.8T turbo kits. 

Fast forward about a month or so and this box shows up with a whole bunch of goodies inside.


PPT exhaust manifold. 


Turbosmart wastegate.


Cat pipe with the wastegate dump tube. I asked Arnold to weld in a high flow cat as I'm going to attempt to keep the car emissions compliant.






Walbro 450 in tank fuel pump. The pump is E85 compatible which is nice 


Bosch 1000cc injectors.


GT3073R turbo which is a GT3071R turbo with PPT's custom 73mm compressor wheel. 




Obligatory comparison shot. Stock turbo vs. GT3073R




As you can see in one of the pictures, I went with Eurodyne software with Maestro. 

And lastly, a new set of Cat 3651 cams.


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## RmL1.8T (Jul 21, 2009)

The new lifters arrived which is what I was waiting on to install the cams. I started out letting the lifters soak in oil overnight.


Took the lifters out of the oil and let them drip for about an hour. Then into the head they went.




Camshafts, cam chain tensioner, CCT gasket, and cam seals are all new. I cleaned up the cam bearing caps, cam chain, and bolts before reassembly. 




Camshafts, chain, and CCT dropped into place.


I had the original AWM head on the table as a reference to make sure everything was oriented correctly in the AEB head.


Bearing caps torqued down following the Bentley instructions.


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## RmL1.8T (Jul 21, 2009)

Reinstalled the oil cooler/filter flange and a new thermostat in the block.







Next I started installing the head for good. First step was finding top dead center. I used the dial indicator to do so because I didn't want to simply rely on my previous timing marks.


Crank timing gear marked.


ARP head studs and a new head gasket (pistons aren't at TDC in this pic).




Set everything back to TDC and dropped the head on. Torqued the ARP fasteners to 80 ft-lbs in three stages following the sequence in the Bentley.




I installed the IE manual tensioner onto the head and put the new OEM timing belt on. Some shots of all the timing marks (cam sprockets, cam gear, and crank gear)










I spun the engine over three or four times and everything seems good to go :thumbup:


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

That's a fooking beautiful parts pile. I'm jealous.


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## Nesho (Dec 5, 2007)

Nice to see another BT Passat!


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## djpadelis (Nov 29, 2016)

Perfect man!! 

Στάλθηκε από το LG-H850 μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

So much win. So professional. Straight to it. I love this build! :heart:


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## lorge1989 (Sep 3, 2008)

Very well done so far. Should be quite the sleeper once on the road. You should keep the stock ride height and stock wheels and tires at least for a little bit. :laugh:


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## GrimJettaGLI (Aug 2, 2004)

Great work, I'm digging the writeup on the rings and assembly.

Question though, why not opt to use adjustable cam gear?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


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## HelloMcFly! (Dec 4, 2010)

Beautiful beautiful build! Bravo!. Love this type of ish. 


Question: I ordered Goetze rings for my rebuild. Kit only came with 2 compression rings and 1 oil ring... Am I missing something here?


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## RmL1.8T (Jul 21, 2009)

Brake Weight said:


> That's a fooking beautiful parts pile. I'm jealous.





Nesho said:


> Nice to see another BT Passat!





djpadelis said:


> Perfect man!!
> 
> Στάλθηκε από το LG-H850 μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk





jstnGTI said:


> So much win. So professional. Straight to it. I love this build! :heart:





lorge1989 said:


> Very well done so far. Should be quite the sleeper once on the road. You should keep the stock ride height and stock wheels and tires at least for a little bit. :laugh:


Thanks everyone!



GrimJettaGLI said:


> Great work, I'm digging the writeup on the rings and assembly.
> 
> Question though, why not opt to use adjustable cam gear?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


Just a $$$ thing. I had to draw the line somewhere and an adjustable cam gear just didn't make the cut.



HelloMcFly! said:


> Beautiful beautiful build! Bravo!. Love this type of ish.
> 
> 
> Question: I ordered Goetze rings for my rebuild. Kit only came with 2 compression rings and 1 oil ring... Am I missing something here?


Thanks man. I did a quick google search to see what the Goetze rings look like. So normally there is a top oil rail ring, the oil expander, and the bottom oil rail ring. It looks like maybe for the Goetze rings the top and bottom oil rails are one piece. Is it possible the oil expander and oil rails are pre-assembled as one "ring"?


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## RmL1.8T (Jul 21, 2009)

I took advantage of the nice weather this weekend to get some work done. I got the turbo bolted to the engine which was a big milestone for me 

Turbo and exhaust manifold ready to go on. I picked up a new exhaust manifold gasket and nuts as well. 





Everything bolted on including the wastegate and cat pipe. It's all v-band connections which made it super easy. 






That's all for now. Super stoked to see this starting to take shape.


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## HelloMcFly! (Dec 4, 2010)

Did you powder coat the valve cover?


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## RmL1.8T (Jul 21, 2009)

HelloMcFly! said:


> Did you powder coat the valve cover?


Nope, it's just spray paint.


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## HelloMcFly! (Dec 4, 2010)

Bump.. Let's keep this going


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## RmL1.8T (Jul 21, 2009)

It's been a little while since an update but I did a little bit of work over the past week. I was originally planning on going with a SEM intake manifold but I decided just to go with an AEB intake manifold for budget reasons. I think the AEB manifold will be fine for my power goals.

AEB manifold and a new gasket. 


Comparison of the AEB (left) and stock AWM (right) manifold. The ports are noticeable larger on the AEB manifold.


Close-up. The AEB ports are 25mm x 54mm and the AWM ports are 25.5mm x 43mm if anyone was curious.


Bolted the manifold on along with the 1000cc injectors. Also re-installed the timing belt covers, crank dampener pulley, alternator and bracket. 





I've started doing some work on the 01E swap too. Instead of swapping out the subframe and finding the right trans mount brackets, I decided I'm just going to make my own brackets to work with the stock subframe and mounts. 

Since I figure mocking up the brackets would be a real pain with the trans in the car, I built a simple fixture so I could build them out of the car. 


With the 5 speed in position so I can template all the holes.






I traced the outline of the bell housing and drilled out some of the block to trans holes. I'm going to use those to align the 01E.



Six speed in position.


Bolted to the fixture.




Now I just need to build the mounts to connect the bolt holes on the trans to where they need to bolt to the mounts.





Should be easy right? I might be over complicating this but building my own mounts is more fun than swapping subframes and I was looking for an excuse to use the welder.


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## lorge1989 (Sep 3, 2008)

RmL1.8T said:


> It's been a little while since an update but I did a little bit of work over the past week. I was originally planning on going with a SEM intake manifold but I decided just to go with an AEB intake manifold for budget reasons. I think the AEB manifold will be fine for my power goals.
> 
> snip
> 
> Should be easy right? I might be over complicating this but building my own mounts is more fun than swapping subframes and I was looking for an excuse to use the welder.


This is a good idea, not over complicated at all I don't think. Make sure you slot you mounting holes a bit just to make sure everything fits right and nothing gets bound up.

By the way I think you can use a DTS bar instead of the regular mounts on that transmission, would make install easier and no extra mounts. :thumbup:


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## LGDUBR (Mar 13, 2007)

This is why I love the 1.8T forum. Keep up the good work!


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## F4T (Jun 23, 2014)

So much of win here! 

Awesome build mate, looking forward to more updates.


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## FGuri32 (Dec 26, 2007)

subscribed :thumbup:


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## Frijolero (Oct 29, 2013)

Awesome build man. I'll be following here even though I made an account on passatworld just for your thread over there. 

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk


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## RmL1.8T (Jul 21, 2009)

Okay, time for an update. I've been busy with work and other things so I haven't had a lot of opportunities to work on the car. Anyways...

Got a new plastic sleeve/o-ring for the oil cooler to get that ready to go back on. I replaced the PCV breather elbow that attaches to the top of the oil cooler assembly because the old one didn't survive disassembly.









Some more of the PCV system ready to go back on. The two connections to the valve cover breather ports are top right along with where the PCV valve plugs in. The middle tee connects to the block breather, smaller hose runs to the intake manifold.









PCV valve and the hose that runs to the turbo inlet pipe.









Coolant flange that goes on the back of the head with a new o-ring.









Also put the throttle body back on.









PCV and some of the coolant lines back on. I still need to work out what I want to do with the suction jet pump. The vacuum ports on the AEB manifold are arranged differently compared to the AWM manifold so the AWM suction jet pump hoses don't fit up. Anyone think it's a bad idea to delete the suction jet pump and just run a hose from the intake manifold/inlet pipe to the brake booster?


















Next I started working on the turbo oil and coolant lines. Step one was to clock the turbo per Garrett's recommendations, basically have the coolant inlet 20 degrees lower than the coolant outlet. Garrett's white paper on turbo cooling is a pretty interesting read. (https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/Garrett_White_Papers)










I broke out the protractor and got to measuring. I ended up re-clocking the turbo four or five times just in the process of getting the oil and coolant fittings on but in the end, I think I'm pretty close to Garrett's recommendations.

First fitment of the coolant supply line. This isn't the final configuration because I had to tweak it to fit with the motor mount bracket.









Ran the coolant return line next. This uses a barbed fitting to connect to the original hose near the intake manifold.


















The return line seems a little on the long side. Once the engine is back in position I'll need to make sure there aren't any high points in the return line.









So speaking of the engine mount bracket, I went to put the bracket back on and realized I had a problem. Bracket doesn't clear the turbo.


















Turns out I needed a bracket from a B7 Audi (p/n 8E0199308AH). I found one on ebay for twenty bucks so that wasn't so bad. 









I had to grind down a little bit of the bracket to make it fit but it clears now.









Also picked up a set of 034 street density motor mounts 









Bracket back on with a couple millimeters of clearance to the turbo. The bracket and turbo are rigidly connected to the block so I don't see there being any relative motion between the two and the small clearance shouldn't be a problem.









Next up was the oil return line. I wasn't 100% happy with the fitment of the return line so I ended up making my own. -10 AN fittings and stainless steel line.









Fittings installed.









Connections to turbo (left) and oil pan (right) with new gaskets.









Installed.









I ended up running the coolant supply line behind the engine mount bracket which you can see here.









Installed the oil feed line which was pretty straight forward. I still need to secure it somewhere behind the head and make sure it isn't touching anything it shouldn't.


















Also reinstalled the driver side engine bracket and mount.









That's about it for the engine. For the 01e swap, I picked up a set of trans brackets to use the passenger side one.









I didn't take a picture but the passenger side bracket does fit. 

Next I started working on making the driver side bracket. The plan was to have one bolting plate which connects to the transmission, one bolting plate which connects to the mount, and then two plates which connect them.

I used 3/16" thick A36 steel. Here are the four plates cut out and three of them prepped for welding. Top is the bolting plate to the trans, middle right is the bolting plate the the mount (you can see the mount attached in the picture), and then the two connecting plates.









All welded up. Not exactly a fabrication work of art but this was essentially the first thing I ever welded so I'm happy with it. The 3/16" steel makes it quite stiff and it fits on the trans so it should work.









Painted.









That's all for now. Next up is clutch/flywheel/pilot bearing. After that, engine and trans can be joined and it should be ready to go back in the car.


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

Nice to see an update on this. Curious why the secondary 02 sensor is before the CAT... EGT sensor instead of 02 maybe?


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## RmL1.8T (Jul 21, 2009)

All_Euro said:


> Nice to see an update on this. Curious why the secondary 02 sensor is before the CAT... EGT sensor instead of 02 maybe?


One's for the wideband gauge, the other is for the stock o2 sensor. There's a third bung post cat for the second o2 sensor.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

RmL1.8T said:


> One's for the wideband gauge, the other is for the stock o2 sensor. There's a third bung post cat for the second o2 sensor.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk



Gottcha. Nice that you’re refreshing the PCV while the engine’s out... need to do that with my A4 daily soon.


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## RmL1.8T (Jul 21, 2009)

I did the clutch one night this past week. First step was replacing the pilot bearing with a new one. I ended up renting a bearing puller tool from both Advance Auto and Autozone. My opinions on both tools:

Advance Auto: This tool was absolute garbage. For starters, the jaws weren't perfectly square, they actually had a little chamfer in the corners. As a result, the jaws had a horrible grip on the back of the bearing and would constantly slip through the bearing. To pull the bearing out, you have to tighten a nut on the threaded rod while counter holding the black rod. I found it super difficult to keep the tool square to the bearing while trying to tighten the nut. Couldn't get the bearing out. End rant....









Autozone: I actually rented this tool first but the jaws were a little too wide to fit through the inner diameter of the pilot bearing (hence why I had to try the Advance Auto tool). After getting fed up with the other tool, I decided to grind down the Autozone jaws so they would fit in the bearing. I only needed to take off about a tenth of an inch. The jaws are nice and square so they had a much better grip on the back of the bearing. The tool attaches to a slide hammer which I also rented. Once I had the jaws locked on the back of the bearing, all it took was three slides of the hammer and the bearing was out. Literally took 30 seconds. I was amazed how much better the autozone tool worked. :thumbup:









Old bearing out after getting hacked up with the advance auto tool.









I tapped the new bearing in with a mallet.









Now for the fun stuff. Clutchmasters FX400 clutch and steel flywheel (240mm). Came with a new throw-out bearing, alignment tool, and flywheel bolts.









Flywheel, clutch disc, and pressure plate.




































Flywheel on. I bought ARP flywheel bolts so I didn't use the ones that came with the kit. I used red loctite on the ARP bolts and torqued them to 80 ft-lbs. I used a flywheel locking tool to hold the flywheel in place which worked well.









ARP bolts.









Clutch disc and pressure plate went on next. Used the alignment tool to hold the clutch disc in place while the pressure plate was torqued down.


















Next up will be doing the new throw-out bearing then putting the engine and trans back in the car.


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## blkrhyno (Mar 12, 2013)

Nice build, not sure if I missed it but did you use the AEB cam gear or the cam gear from the AWM ? I remember reading some where that the AEB gear have less teeth and will have the timing belt loose.


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## Mr.loops (May 27, 2010)

Nice progress


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## RmL1.8T (Jul 21, 2009)

blkrhyno said:


> Nice build, not sure if I missed it but did you use the AEB cam gear or the cam gear from the AWM ? I remember reading some where that the AEB gear have less teeth and will have the timing belt loose.


Yup, I used the AWM cam gear and cam position sensor trigger wheel. Thanks for looking out haha.


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## blkrhyno (Mar 12, 2013)

RmL1.8T said:


> Yup, I used the AWM cam gear and cam position sensor trigger wheel. Thanks for looking out haha.


No problem


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## RmL1.8T (Jul 21, 2009)

Some updates.

I got the engine bolted up to the 01e. I cut the heads off some M12 bolts and used them as guide rods to guide the input shaft into the flywheel/pilot bearing which would be my tip to anyone else doing this in the future.

Engine and transmission all rigged up and ready to go. 









I grabbed the original shift box out of the car and attached the shift linkages to it, hoping I could save myself the hassle of attaching them once the trans was in.



















Also threw the starter back on.









I installed the sender for the oil pressure gauge into the test port on top of the oil filter assembly.



















All rigged up and ready to go.










First attempt at putting the engine and trans in. The shifter got in the way so I had to remove that. I also had to redo my rigging because the straps were too long and the boom of the engine hoist was hitting the hood. 









I got the engine and trans in and realized I had to make some modifications to the trans support bracket I made. First, the rear corner was hitting the body so I notched that out. There was also about a quarter inch gap between the bracket and the mount so I welded a small section of plate on to close the gap.

Final trans mount.









And finally, engine and 01e in place and bolted down!


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## blkrhyno (Mar 12, 2013)

Nice to see it going back in, I check this thread almost everyday, lol.


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## RmL1.8T (Jul 21, 2009)

blkrhyno said:


> Nice to see it going back in, I check this thread almost everyday, lol.


:thumbup:


Some more progress.

Installed the 01E shifter and got the linkages hooked up. I still need to fine tune the adjust as it's a little notchy but all six gears plus reverse are there. I have the original 5-speed knob on there for now.











So I had taken the center console trim off to put the new shifter in and I found some goodies from the previous owner hidden in the wiring :icon_eek:




















My 2.5" downpipe frome techtonices tuning arrived and looked fantastic. I was a little worried there would be fitment issues with the 01e but everything went in fine.




















Rear diff, rear axles, and driveshaft went in next.











I bought a driveshaft spacer to use the tiptronic driveshaft with the 01e trans. Driveshaft bolts to tapped holes in the spacer and the spacer has through holes for the bolts to trans.











The front axles aren't in yet so I had no way to prevent the trans from rotating as I was tightening the bolts. I ended up drilling two holes in some flat bar and using that to lock everything in place.











Spacer and driveshaft bolted in.











The bentley has a procedure for adjusting the center driveshaft carrier which involves VW tool 3139. It's my understanding that this tool just keeps the driveshaft straight and prevents the center joint from sagging while taking measurements.










I ended up making my own tool from some scrap square tubing so I could attempt to adjust the driveshaft properly. A couple of cuts and some tack welds and it was ready to go.




















Secured to the driveshaft with some zip ties. It seemed to work pretty well as it took all the weight off the center carrier. I took some measurements and shimmed the carrier per the table in the manual.











I started welding up the exhaust. Originally I was just going to buy a cat-back but there doesn't seem to be that many options for 4motions. Techtonics tuning's stainless steel 4motion exhaust is almost $900 :icon_eek: So I decided to just make my own stainless exhaust. 

The "axle-back" portion tacked up with a magnaflow muffler. The portion from the dowpipe back to the axle is done so I just need to do the mounts/hangers and fully weld everything.











As far as the engine bay, everything is just about hooked up with the exception of the vacuum lines going to the turbo inlet pipe. I picked up some NPT bungs and fittings so I can add the vacuum connections to the TIP (PCV, EVAP, and SJP). 

Lock carrier back on.




























Getting close. The to-do list:
- Finish exhaust
- Mount intercooler and piping
- Install fuel rail and pump
- Finish vacuum lines
- Install front axles
- Install gauges


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## blkrhyno (Mar 12, 2013)

Nice work Rml1.8T


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## RmL1.8T (Jul 21, 2009)

Mounted the FMIC. It's a Garrett 600hp core with ATP end tanks. I used some aluminum flat bar and some of the A.C. condenser bolt holes to mount it. I deleted the A.C. system so that gave me a little more room to work with.


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## blkrhyno (Mar 12, 2013)

What size is your core ?


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## RmL1.8T (Jul 21, 2009)

blkrhyno said:


> What size is your core ?


From ATP's website:

24" Wide (including endtanks, excluding hose clamp area) - 10.5" Tall - 3.0" Thickness. 2.5" inlet and outlet hose connections


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## blkrhyno (Mar 12, 2013)

RmL1.8T said:


> From ATP's website:
> 
> 24" Wide (including endtanks, excluding hose clamp area) - 10.5" Tall - 3.0" Thickness. 2.5" inlet and outlet hose connections


Thanks


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## RmL1.8T (Jul 21, 2009)

I finished the exhaust and intercooler piping this week.

Exhaust- This is the piece that runs from the down pipe to underneath the rear axle. I welded on an adapter piece so it slips over the downpipe.









The adapter. Kinda hard to see but it increases slightly in diameter.









Clamp the secures the piping to the downpipe.









I redid the rear portion because I didn't like how low the muffler was going to hang. So I mocked everything back up again.


















Tacked in place.









Fully welded including the bracket which attaches to the stock hanger mount.









I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. The muffler doesn't hang too low and the exhaust isn't rubbing against anything which is always good :thumbup:



























I did the intercooler piping tonight. I bought some silicone couplers and used the leftover 2.5" stainless steel pipe from the exhaust.

Hot side.



























Cold side was a little more complicated. First I welded in the MAP sensor bung from 42 draft designs.









With the sensor in place.









Forge blow-off valve which is going just after the intercooler.









Cold side piping.


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## cuprafan (Aug 26, 2017)

hello 
nice work on the exhaust I ges 3"rvs pipe it looks Always easy to do 
but it takes morre work and time then expected

on the frond off the car would you not change a few small things 
that the air go better through the intercooler


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## jaysleeves (Mar 24, 2010)

Awesome work, I wish it didn't have to end


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## PJosh23 (Feb 14, 2010)

Nice project and great write up!


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