# MAF replacement adaptation??



## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

I replaced my faulty MAF early yesterday and am interested in what I should expect as far as adaptation ... 

I've searched some posts and from what I understand: 

1. The ECU stores X amount of long-term fuel trim data and after replacing a faulty MAF the engine running normally is Dependant on the ECU having the previous "wrong" trim values replaced by "good" values. 

2. After replacing an MAF, normal engine performance may be a matter of miles run after install, start-ups to reaching operating temp, or it just depends on the car. 

3. The ECU adapting to a new MAF may be helped by a clearing of the long-term trim data via VAG-COM or a "negative to positive battery reset" 

After replacing the MAF my idle issues are 100% solved, it's completely stable. I drove with the bad MAF unplugged for approx 5k miles (just didn't have the money to get the part) and it ran better yet wasn't running like it used to. Now that I have the new MAF installed I did the negative to positive battery reset (I read it may be a bogus practice, but thought it couldn't hurt) and on turbo the responsiveness is quick, but the car bucks from 3000rpm-5500rpm in all gears. 

I need some feedback on what to expect. Is this normal? Will it subside with time? am I looking at a matter of starts or miles traveled? 

Thanks all!!


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Should go away in under 10-20miles. You need to check it with VCDS and see what's going on. It almost sounds like you have a boost leak.


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

I wonder why it would run so differently after installing a new MAF?? it drives better with it unplugged, but I just assumed that was because of adaptation. kwim??


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Could be a bad CTS (make sure you have a green top), could be MAP related. It could also be O2 related. Without a proper scan it's hard to pinpoint it over the computer though. 

Try to deduce it this way: 

Ask yourself (or Google), What does a Mass Air Flow sensor do? What other things relate to its function? What condition are those other parts in? 

Also, when running with the MAF it uses info from it, the first O2 sensor, MAP, and IAT sensors to judge how much fuel, timing and boost the engine needs to run properly. When you take the MAF out of the equation it makes up for the loss by using the info from the other sensors. 

Unless you purchased another broken MAF (or improper MAF for the tune) it's something else in the fueling / intake system causing the issue. 

If you have VCDS check 032 for your fuel trims and most of the first 5 (I think) for the g/s from the MAF.


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

the cts is maybe a month old. so will the free version of vcds tell me what I need to know??


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

you can run a basic scan to see what codes come up. 

You can also look and see what your MAF values are while driving. 

Depending on your tune and turbocharger you should be in a certain level of flow. It's not going to show you the block I really want to see though. 

You're not located in the DC metro area are you?


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

No I'm not in D.C. 

its an AWW with the stock K03s, REVO 93 tune, AEM short ram, TB Catless 2.5" exhaust. 

I just pulled these codes: 

Current Fault Log 
------------------ 
P0036: HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 2) 
P0136: O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2) 
P0172: System too Rich (Bank 1) 

I'm not sure if you are familiar with it, but I pull codes and such by using "Torque" on my Android device. I can also log MAF flow numbers. It presents the data by way of graphs so if I log a run what would be the best X-axis and Y-axis to use? It can do line and scatter charts ect ...should I do MAF air flow (X) and RPM (Y)?? idk, you tell me and I'll log it. oh, and thanks btw :beer:


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Do you have a catless exhaust? 

I am familiar with the Torque program as in I know about it. I may have to pick your brain about it a bit. I've been contemplating getting it. What ELM connector are you using for it? PLX, KIWI? (off subject but I'd like to know what you think about it.)


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

ya no cat so the only relevant code there is P0172. 

When I downloaded the trial I wasn't sure if it was going to work so I just got a cheapo Soliport ELM 327. If it worked out I was going to buy a better one, but I purchased the full version of Torque without buying a better adapter. It works fine, but I do know people who have issues with the Soliport. If money is an issue I hear budget minded folks have better luck with the BAFX piece, but I don't have personal experience with it. I got Torque because I was tired of paying $35 a pop to read codes and at the time had no laptop for VCDS. I haven't fiddled that much with real time data logging, but the fault code function alone was well worth it. An added plus is when a friend or coworker mentions car trouble and I go read their codes with my phone the look on their faces is priceless. 

I'm watching football at the moment so can't leave just yet to try logging data, but I did run out during halftime to log MAF flow at idle. I set up the graph really simple since it was my first time. The next one will look a lot different as I'll change the reading intervals and graph parameters. This is what I got with a quick set up ... 









Like I mentioned before, I'm not sure what the best X,Y axis set up should be. I'm an English major, so anything that resembles math makes me want to vomit


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

Pressure test your intake please. That's probably why you are having issues.


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> Pressure test your intake please. That's probably why you are having issues.


 I've dog food canned this damn thing so many times and for the life of me I can't find a leak :banghead:


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

Does it buck or just misfire?

A 'buck' might just indicate a fuel cut.


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> Does it buck or just misfire?
> 
> A 'buck' might just indicate a fuel cut.


 Ugh these terms are so subjective aren't they lol. It's more of a jerking, if bucking is violent. If it's misfiring then where's the code?? If there is a fuel cut then why do I have a running rich code??


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

Can you take a video of it?
Check your spark plug gap.

Also check your fuel trims.


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> Can you take a video of it?
> Check your spark plug gap.
> 
> Also check your fuel trims.


 my plugs are gapped at .028 and were changed less than 1k ago. I'm going to see what this app can log and I'll post it up later.


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

okay bare with me here. I haven't driven with the new MAF in sub-85degree weather and it's usually well over 90degrees untill last night. Last night was unseasonably cool for where I live at 63degrees and my jetta ran better than it has in years; I was shocked. Only one slight flutter during warm-up. Boost came on stronger and even the tone coming from the intake was deeper. Weird. So, I'm gonna venture a guess here and bet that someone might suggest I replace the Temperature Sensor in the Intake Manifold?? Couldn't hurt since I have no catchcan and 160k :sly: 

Okay, on to the Android App. While out last night zipping around backroads I saved some data using Torque. This is in case any trolls are watching -> Mind you, I am NOT saying this data is accurateI'm posting it because someone asked about the App and some people might find it interesting. 



























idk about that boost chart. it's obviously reading something as it takes values while driving, but this says I spiked pretty damn high. 

Thoughts??


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## Neezy13 (Jun 1, 2011)

I don't know if its possible with the app you are using, but plotting the data using rpm instead of time would be a lot more helpful. That way you can see what boost, afr, etc are at what rpm.


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

okay here's what I've got ... 


this is AFR, merging onto the expressway flooring it: 









this is AFR, driving normally: 









this is Fuel Trim, merging onto the expressway again: 









this is Fuel Trim, goosing it a little bit down side streets:


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

aaaaand this is my Intake Air Temp Sensor


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

ttt


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

Bump


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Just clean it. The wires aren't burt or broken. Use Throttle cleaner and try again.


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

DMVDUB said:


> Just clean it. The wires aren't burt or broken. Use Throttle cleaner and try again.


I tried that about 1k ago ...took your advice and did again this morning. Drove all day, no dice.


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## VWMech01 (Apr 13, 2005)

I'm having similar problems. So far I've done this:

1.All breather hoses but this one:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--1.8T/Search/Breather/ES258895/
(That's coming soon)

2.Valve cover gasket
3.Plugs
4.N75
5.(2) new MAF's because the dealer recommended I change the one I changed 3k miles after I changed it. Both were/are Bosch OEM.
6.Checked DV and it seals and holds vacuum as it should

My car is stock.

I think the N249 is reading out of range, but I need to find the actual values in the Bentley to convince myself.

You can pull data all day however with whatever software you want, but if you don't understand how the systems work, or don't know what you're looking at it's not going to get you anywhere. Example: looks like in the one chart you're running so lean the engine shouldn't be running.

I'm going to change the N249 and the tee mentioned in #1. You can follow my progress here:

http://tech.bentleypublishers.com/thread.jspa?threadID=43911&tstart=0

Yeah, it's been a saga.


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

I'm sorry I'm trying bro, nobody else is chiming in...

If you were in my area I'd gladly help diagnose the issue, It's just a little hard over the computer.

I'm sure it's something simple you're missing though.


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## VWMech01 (Apr 13, 2005)

DMVDUB said:


> I'm sorry I'm trying bro, nobody else is chiming in...
> 
> If you were in my area I'd gladly help diagnose the issue, It's just a little hard over the computer.
> 
> I'm sure it's something simple you're missing though.


I feel for him too. I'll try to remember to come back to this thread, too. But I'm ordering an N249 tomorrow, alone with the leaky tee I mentioned above.


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

well after replacing the MAF and IAT I dropped my lean code for a rich code P0172 ...durrrrrrrr 

I talked to my tuning shop and they said an injector or two may be dumping fuel (but I was running lean before), a vac leak, or my precat o2 is lazy (but I have no cel for that) ...going in for a smoke test tomorrow ...


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Boost leak... Somewhere.


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

idk, but I have a sinking suspicion it's my TIP


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## SB_GLI (Oct 17, 2005)

TIP is pre-compressor, so it wouldn't cause a boost leak. If anything, it would only allow unmetered air past the MAF and could cause a lean condition.


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

okay here's an update:

I made a visit to the tuning shop today. I think the owner empathizes with my 4 year long fight with my MKIV so he personally went out and tinkered with it. He read codes, popped the hood, etc etc etc. 

He said that yes my P0136: O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction code is due to a catless exhaust without a spacer, but my P0036: HO2S Heater Control Circuit isn't. He thinks addressing this code is where I should start. 

It was explained to me that because it's the heater circuit that can be causing issues elsewhere which makes some sense to me considering the "VW domino effect of malfunctions". It may indicate either a bad fuse, bad ground, faulty wiring, or a bad post cat O2. 

I have always been under the assumption that there is no way sensor 2 malfunction can cause driveability issues, but I learned that it's reported failure by the ecu could indicate an issue that is effecting other components that would in turn cause driveability issues. A rich condition is one of them. 

So I'll multimeter the wiring, harness, sensor, check the ground, and the fuse.

any thoughts??


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

i just had a lightbulb go off ...may be wrong, but i'll throw it out there ...

the O2 runs off of the fuel pump relay, the O2 sensor itself is only 1 year old so maybe it's fine and the relay is causing the sputtering and occasional idle jump??

hmmmmmm


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

bump


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

Ttt


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

Bump


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

Back to the drawing board ...

Rich code is gone on its own ...??whaaaaat??

Idle jumps or dips periodically.
Flutter and loss of power on-turbo at 3000rpm to redline
Spuratically boost will kick in and out pulling hard

Help


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

possibly ignition related. I think just about everyone with a 1.8T has gone through something similar to what you just explained. 

Good news: it's not serious or expensive 

Bad news: you're going to have to try several different approaches before you'll narrow down the problem. 

1. Check if you're eligible for the coilpack revision R recall 
2. Replace Coils with "R" coils and new plugs gapped properly (if the coils are fine, you'll have some spares, that's always good)> 
3.Check ignition harness for cracked wires 
4. CHECK and RECHECK for boost leaks. Sometimes you won't see them unless it's hot\ 
5. Clean your MAP sensor


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## ballergti (Nov 17, 2010)

iJETTA said:


> i just had a lightbulb go off ...may be wrong, but i'll throw it out there ...
> 
> the O2 runs off of the fuel pump relay, the O2 sensor itself is only 1 year old so maybe it's fine and the relay is causing the sputtering and occasional idle jump??
> 
> hmmmmmm


 I'm having a similar problem. My friend has a brand new relay and I'm gonna try it out and see if it works. I'll let you know.


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

DMVDUB said:


> 1. Check if you're eligible for the coilpack revision R recall
> 2. Replace Coils with "R" coils and new plugs gapped properly (if the coils are fine, you'll have some spares, that's always good)>
> 3.Check ignition harness for cracked wires
> 4. CHECK and RECHECK for boost leaks. Sometimes you won't see them unless it's hot\
> 5. Clean your MAP sensor


 1 & 2. Where can I check the recall against my vin? 
3. I went through all my wires a month ago and taped them up after coating in liquid electrical tape. there was no change. 
4. I just pressure checked, propaned, then throttle body cleanered all vacuum lines while engine was hot. Nothing. 
5. I've replaced this since the issue arose, however I did clean it today. No change. 

Fyi I really do appreciate the feedback!! Keep it coming. 

Oh, is it worth mentioning that my top-end is super noisy? I know that the 1.8t injectors are on the noisy side, but this seems excessive. I took it to the tuning shop a couple months ago for that and they replaced my timing tensioner and another pulley. The noise returned. Boo.


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

Ttt


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

Did you even check to see if you have the stock injectors?
The only reasons why your trims would be off would be a bad tune, wrong injectors, intake leak, exhaust leak or bad O2/MAF sensor.

If you are getting too rich/too lean codes then your fuel trims are way off.


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> Did you even check to see if you have the stock injectors?
> The only reasons why your trims would be off would be a bad tune, wrong injectors, intake leak, exhaust leak or bad O2/MAF sensor.
> 
> If you are getting too rich/too lean codes then your fuel trims are way off.


 Stock injectors. My dad bought it new then sold it to me and neither of us replaced them. 

Where can I check this coil revision recall from a trusted source?


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

iJETTA said:


> Stock injectors. My dad bought it new then sold it to me and neither of us replaced them.


 I stand by my previous statement. You need to check all of the items I mentioned.
And please get VCDS. Nobody is going to be willing to help you if you don't get the right tool to perform proper diagnostics.


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> I stand by my previous statement. You need to check all of the items I mentioned.
> And please get VCDS. Nobody is going to be willing to help you if you don't get the right tool to perform proper diagnostics.


 Don't make a statement like that for everyone else on vortex. If that were true it negates the purpose of forums that offer help and advice. Not everyone has the option of purchasing a cable and software that can log the info needed. Lock yourself in the vcds forum if you're going to get nasty outside of it.

Hey Baller, did you get a chance to try that relay out??


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## ballergti (Nov 17, 2010)

iJETTA said:


> Don't make a statement like that for everyone else on vortex. If that were true it negates the purpose of forums that offer help and advice. Not everyone has the option of purchasing a cable and software that can log the info needed. Lock yourself in the vcds forum if you're going to get nasty outside of it.
> 
> Hey Baller, did you get a chance to try that relay out??


 Yeah man I changed it out and nothing. I'm so lost man. I'm probably gonna have to do a wire harness tear down. I really don't want to though.


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

Oooookaaaaay I just drove to work and its backfiring bigtime on decel ...pop pop pop POW POW!! ??



ballergti said:


> Yeah man I changed it out and nothing. I'm so lost man. I'm probably gonna have to do a wire harness tear down. I really don't want to though.


 That suks I feel for u.


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Maybe he was harsh is saying nobody would help him without VCDS. But IF he had it you would see a LOT more people chiming in. 

It's a forum, yes. There is only so many things anyone can tell him to do without having the ecu scanned. 

Reality, Spend the $20.00 and buy a VCDS cable. USE the free program to at least get trouble codes. THEN we can actually get somewhere. 

You should not take on tearing out the harness either without the FULL VCDS program, either.


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

DMVDUB said:


> Maybe he was harsh is saying nobody would help him without VCDS. But IF he had it you would see a LOT more people chiming in.
> 
> It's a forum, yes. There is only so many things anyone can tell him to do without having the ecu scanned.
> 
> ...


 I am in total agreement that it would be ideal. I have heard some hit and miss opinions on Ebay cables.

Whoa, I never said anyyhin about ripping wiring out, no thanks to that lol


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

Hey DMV ...do you have a cheap chord and does it work ok for you??


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

And then this ...really??


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

iJETTA said:


> Don't make a statement like that for everyone else on vortex. If that were true it negates the purpose of forums that offer help and advice. Not everyone has the option of purchasing a cable and software that can log the info needed. Lock yourself in the vcds forum if you're going to get nasty outside of it.


 I'm not getting nasty about it... I've been trying to help you so far but without the proper tool, we are just 'playing mechanic'.


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> I'm not getting nasty about it... I've been trying to help you so far but without the proper tool, we are just 'playing mechanic'.


 Understood, lets hug it out lol

On a serious not, I just pulled these codes: 

Current Fault Log ------------------P0036: HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 2) P0136: O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)

Pending Fault Log ------------------P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected P0301: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected P0303: Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected


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## VWMech01 (Apr 13, 2005)

I'm learning more and more about this breather hose circuit and it's role in boost control and charge air intake. I've discovered several cracked hoses on the front of my motor. My trouble started when this breather system started spewing oil onto the front of my block. 

HOPEFULLY today that system will be buttoned up without leaks. 

Since the stock programming routes boost into the crankcase through this system to prevent blowby, it makes sense to me that leaks in the breather system would allow either intake air into or out of the system. This can cause a number of the 'domino effect' type codes. Mine is MAF circuit low. I know the MAF is good as I've changed it twice with OEM Bosch units. 

I'll update after I swap some hoses. I don't know if this applies to you at all with your flash. I have no idea what you may or may not have deleted. Just trying to help any way I can! 

:beer: 

I just re-read the comments about VCDS, which I assume is VAG-COM. Why so many acronyms? haha. 

I have to say this: VAG-COM is a tool, yes. With several systems that can cause this problem, VAG-COM could help, yes. BUT...making someone feel like they don't know what they're doing because they're not leaning on that crutch (yes, people have been 'playing mechanic' for years without the option of having a computer tell them what sensors are reading...so it is, to some extent, a crutch) is just the easy way to say 'I don't know what's wrong with it either'. 

I'm saying vacuum/boost leak. VAG-COM, VCDS, whatever, will tell you what the sensors are reading, but is not going to say 'your pcv valve is stuck', or 'the suction pump in the breather mess has a crack in it that's only opening at full boost'. REASON and UNDERSTANDING the systems can tell you that. 

I'd advise to leave the sensors and wiring alone, and check EVERY VAC/BREATHER LINE for cracks. My suction pump had a crack that you couldn't see until you squeezed the line a little and saw that it was going out of round in that one area. Learn the systems, and reason what could be throwing your code(s). 

As I mention, I will update later today (hopefully). 

EDIT: to be clear in what I'm saying, an example: how many of us have a ball joint splitter? That's the right tool for the job. But one can split the ball joint from the knuckle with a large screwdriver and a hammer just as easily.


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

VWMech01 said:


> I'm learning more and more about this breather hose circuit and it's role in boost control and charge air intake. I've discovered several cracked hoses on the front of my motor. My trouble started when this breather system started spewing oil onto the front of my block.
> 
> HOPEFULLY today that system will be buttoned up without leaks.
> 
> ...


 Ya I replaced the block breather a couple years ago. 

I hear what you're sayin man. I'm pretty familiar with the car and have learned from my mistakes too. I don't take on things I dont think I can realistically handle and I'm the type of person that if I stare at something long enough I'll figure it out. Like when I was gaining revs through shifts and my cruise wouldn't work. 2 tuning shops just scratched their heads. So I read and asked questions and figured out that it was a bad clutch pedal switch. Go figure.

Oh and btw, keep your screwdriver and hammer away from my balls


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## VWMech01 (Apr 13, 2005)

iJETTA said:


> Ya I replaced the block breather a couple years ago.
> 
> I hear what you're sayin man. I'm pretty familiar with the car and have learned from my mistakes too. I don't take on things I dont think I can realistically handle and I'm the type of person that if I stare at something long enough I'll figure it out. Like when I was gaining revs through shifts and my cruise wouldn't work. 2 tuning shops just scratched their heads. So I read and asked questions and figured out that it was a bad clutch pedal switch. Go figure.
> 
> Oh and btw, keep your screwdriver and hammer away from my balls


 Haha. I keep screwdrivers and hammers contained at all times! 

Well, I got the breather parts changed that were either cracked or possibly gummed up from 166k miles of sludge. Now everything from the oil cooler to the valve cover in that system, including the PCV valve has been replaced and SHOULD be buttoned up. 

When you say 'block breather', are we talking about the same system? My engine is code AWW, and today I changed 3 of 9 parts in the system. The other 6 were either replaced last year, or inspected and fit for service. 

Through this maintenance today, I noticed that the dealer, who changed the 2 most expensive items of the 9 last year, did not put the o-ring back on the L-shaped pipe coming from the oil cooler!  HUGE leak there. 

I've only driven it about 15 miles, and I drove it as hard as I could given the traffic around me. Boost delivery seemed more linear, and acceleration seemed more linear through accelerator pedal throw. Seems promising, but I won't know for a few more miles. I know I had leaks, and now I shouldn't have any. We'll see if this helped my problem. 

Edit: those 1-time use clamps are a PITA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

The pipe to the oil cooler is what I'm referring to. When I pulled the clip off 3 plastic pieces fell into the cooler. I had to fish them out with a telescoping magnet with a little ball of duct tape on the end lol. It did the trick.

The pending codes I posted yesterday are gone today, but both O2 codes remain. I may just take a 9MM to my AWW or myself. 3 years since it ran right. Boohoo for me


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## VWMech01 (Apr 13, 2005)

iJETTA said:


> The pipe to the oil cooler is what I'm referring to. When I pulled the clip off 3 plastic pieces fell into the cooler. I had to fish them out with a telescoping magnet with a little ball of duct tape on the end lol. It did the trick.
> 
> The pending codes I posted yesterday are gone today, but both O2 codes remain. I may just take a 9MM to my AWW or myself. 3 years since it ran right. Boohoo for me


Change the rest of the system. At least inspect for cracks. As I said, there are 9 or more items between the oil cooler and the wye that goes to the valve cover. LOTS of places for leaks.


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

Okay I know its been a while, but the saga continues, with a little less drama mind you ...

Last month I installed a boost gauge and thanks to a store credit I ended up paying the cost of a smoke test. I learned my jetta spikes at 19 and holds 16 consistently. Thats good. No leaks that effect driveability. And now I have a fun gauge to watch 

However, as the weather got colder the symptoms have changed a great deal. When it's say freezing up to 60 degrees the hesitation GREATLY decreases. The colder it is the less noticeable. 

I don't think this is a heat-soak issue. I've felt heat-soak before and this is much more of a drastic change. 

Any ideas??


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## iJETTA (Feb 25, 2007)

Ttt


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## radlynx (Jan 4, 2007)

Did you fix this yet?



iJETTA said:


> Ttt


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## VWMech01 (Apr 13, 2005)

iJETTA said:


> Okay I know its been a while, but the saga continues, with a little less drama mind you ...
> 
> Last month I installed a boost gauge and thanks to a store credit I ended up paying the cost of a smoke test. I learned my jetta spikes at 19 and holds 16 consistently. Thats good. No leaks that effect driveability. And now I have a fun gauge to watch
> 
> ...


 I'm fresh out. Mine's still stumbling after all the PCV fixes. It's better, because I did fix some leaks...doesn't stall anymore, but still stumbles from time to time. 

Checked plugs...look perfect. Visual inspection of the coils...one looked a little toasty. Going through my records I learned those coil packs have been in there since '08. They're getting changed despite the lack of a CEL. 

Read through this: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5931646-Bad-idle.-Turbo-issue 

TBA?


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