# Replacing Rear Brake Pads and Rotors - NA V8



## ruddyone (Feb 9, 2009)

Replaced the rear Brake Pads and Rotors on my 2005 V8 this morning. Turned out to be a pretty easy, straight forward job. (for once) 30-45 min. per side. So, I thought I’d do a little write up of how to do it. 
*Parts: (I used)*
EBC Red Stuff Pads (include new wear sensor wires)
_Purchased in the US from_ Summit Racing
OEM Rotors - Purchased in the US from 1st VW Parts
*Tools:*
13mm, 15mm, 17mm Open Ended Wrenches
17mm Socket and Ratchet
T-15 Torx Driver
Disc Brake Caliper Tool 
*Brake Components:*








*DIY:*
Place the car in “Jack Mode” 
_To put the car into ‘Tire Changing Mode’, press and hold both of the suspension control buttons on the middle console for 5 seconds or longer. You will see a message in the Y24 display between the speedometer and tachometer confirming that the car is now in ‘Jacking Up Mode’_








Jack up the car and Remove rear tire
One set of directions for removing a tire 
Rotor and Caliper








Caliper








Brake Wear Sensor Wire








Note the routing of that Brake Wear Sensor Wire. Its easy to reroute but you might want to take a couple of digital pictures just to be sure.
At the Upper Rear of the Caliper is a bolt with two nuts. Use a 15mm open ended wrench on the outer nut and a 17mm open wrench on the inner nut to loosen and remove the bolt.
























At the Lower Rear of the Caliper is an identical bolt. Remove it the same way.
Slide the Caliper off of the Rotor. 








Use a piece of wire or string to hold the caliper up. (attach to some sort of structure above and out of the way of where you are working) You don’t want the Caliper dangling.
Slide the Front and Rear Brake Pads out of the retaining clips.








On the rotor is one set screw. Mine were silver. You can see it in the silver part of the picture below. I believe it was a T-15 Torx (but can’t exactly remember). Remove this screw.








Pull the rotor off the hub. Mine was stuck (as yours probably will be) so I took a rubber mallet and hit it to try to break it loose. Then I used a couple of pry bars to get it off. 
















Now remove the Brake Wear Sensor Wire. Basically, there are just a couple of clips holding it into place behind the rotor. It then goes into a long plastic cover that runs the same direction as the axle. There are some plastic clips on the outside, just open it up and you will find the plug near the end. Unplug it.
























Now you must push the piston back into the caliper. To do this you MUST rotate the piston while pressing it back into the caliper. On my Audi I attempted to do this manually and it was a gigantic pain. Took me hours. I found that Auto stores (Autozone) sell and loan these tools. Basically, you put down a deposit and you get your deposit back when you return the tool. Or, like me you can just keep the tool. 








The tool is pretty simple to use. You basically just insert one end of it into the slots on the piston. The other end of it has a metal piece that is the shape of a brake pad. This goes inside the side of the caliper. You then rotate the screw portion and it rotates and compresses the piston into the caliper. You need to compress the piston until it will fit over the new pads and rotor. For me, I pretty much had to compress it all the way down.
























Install the new Brake Wear Sensor on the new pads. All of the pads are the same so just make sure you place the Wire in the same place that it was on the old pad.
























My Pads also included these noise reduction things. I don’t know if they are worth it but I figured I might as well install them.








Install the new rotor on the hub. Basically, you just place the rotor on the hub and screw that set screw back in.








Plug the wear sensor back into the plug behind the rotor and route the wire along the path you noted earlier.
Slide the rear pad into the rear retaining clips.








Slide the front pad into the front retaining clip. 








Slide the caliper over the pads.
Insert and tighten the upper and lower caliper bolts. (the ones behind the caliper that required the two wrenches)








Put the tire back on snugly tighten the lug nuts. (don’t over do it)
Lower the car until the tire is touching and the suspension has some weight on it. 
Take the car out of “Jack Mode”
Finish lowering the car. 
Torque the lug nuts to 88 ft. lbs.
Repeat for the other side.
Make sure you pump the brakes a bunch of times when you first start the car and as you slowly start to drive to make sure they get set for the new pads and rotors.

Best Regards,
Nate


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

*Re: Replacing Rear Brake Pads and Rotors - NA V8 (ruddyone)*

Wow... wonderful description.
As a moderator, can you please add it to the TOC ?
Thanks,
P.
Ps : will need to do my front brakes soon. Do you think there will be any difference (on a V8) ?


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: Replacing Rear Brake Pads and Rotors - NA V8 (ruddyone)*

Nice one, Nate! I'm about to do mine, this will help a lot. It looks as straightforward as I was hoping it was going to be.


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## 357Sig (Oct 9, 2008)

*Re: Replacing Rear Brake Pads and Rotors - NA V8 (invisiblewave)*

Nate,
Your timing is impeccable. My "Check Brake Pads" warning message just popped up last Thursday. I had replaced the front pads and rotors on my previous Phaeton, but not the rears.
Thanks for the great write-up. If I recall correctly, the rears are a bit different than the fronts.
Bill


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: Replacing Rear Brake Pads and Rotors - NA V8 (ruddyone)*

Nate, which jack point did you use?


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## mhoepfin (Dec 20, 2007)

You make it look so easy even I could do it...


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: (mhoepfin)*

Anyone can do brakes! The basic setup of the brakes is generally very simple, the only difficulty is usually access to bolts and parts seized together. I'm still a bit concerned about doing my front brakes because I've yet to get a good look at the back side of the caliper. Looking at Nate's pictures, it looks pretty straightforward on the rear, there's plenty of space, and he was able to get the nuts off the caliper pins with small wrenches. The only difficult part seems to be getting the rotor off. It takes a bit of time the first time you do it, just go slowly and carefully. It's actually hard to screw it up, it's fairly obvious where everything goes. I used to worry about doing it myself, but I suspect I'm probably a lot more careful about doing my own brakes than a shop would be. You shouldn't be afraid to give it a go, and once you're done it's a great feeling when you realise how easy it is and how much you've saved by doing it yourself! Just be sure to double-up your boxer shorts on the leather seats the first time you drive it afterwards......


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## MichaelGa (Dec 1, 2009)

*Re: (invisiblewave)*

and the other alternative is to purchase your parts and have it installed by an independent shop. The cost usually about $100 to $140. I've done brakes on VW & Mercedes before, enjoy the hands on experience and savings $$$ but when you have a toddler that wants to hang all over you while doing work on a car, best option for me is to pay Non Dealer prices to have them installed. Dealer wanted $850!!!


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## EricAdams (Oct 5, 2009)

I'm seriously considering giving this a go--thanks for posting this. The pads at Summit Racing don't seem to have the wear sensor wire--is there a page I'm not seeing? Also, do you have to bleed the brakes at all, or is that not relevant to this sort of system, or this particular job?


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: (MichaelGa)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MichaelGa* »_and the other alternative is to purchase your parts and have it installed by an independent shop. The cost usually about $100 to $140. I've done brakes on VW & Mercedes before, enjoy the hands on experience and savings $$$ but when you have a toddler that wants to hang all over you while doing work on a car, best option for me is to pay Non Dealer prices to have them installed. Dealer wanted $850!!!









Fine if you've got an independent mechanic who's cheap! The first time I did mine was after getting pads and rotors changed at an independent place, parting with about $500 and driving out to discover that there was still vibration.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: (EricAdams)*

You don't need to bleed the brakes to change the pads & rotors. The only time you might even need to think about the fluid is if you're having trouble getting the pistons in, in which case you may need to take the lid off the reservoir. From the posts on this subject so far, it seems that's very unlikely to be necessary on the Phaeton, especially since you need the piston retraction tool anyway.
Before you put third party pads on it, it's also worth checking out dealer prices. They quoted me $95 for rear pads, so the only reason I can see for considering anything else is a possible reduction in dust. If you buy third party rotors, don't bother with cheap ones. You generally get what you pay for with rotors (although dealers are often more expensive than they should be).


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## ruddyone (Feb 9, 2009)

*Re: (EricAdams)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EricAdams* »_I'm seriously considering giving this a go--thanks for posting this. The pads at Summit Racing don't seem to have the wear sensor wire--is there a page I'm not seeing? Also, do you have to bleed the brakes at all, or is that not relevant to this sort of system, or this particular job?

I got my pads from Summit Racing and they included the wear sensors. I actually called them and they just had them shipped directly from the manufacturer. The box had the pads, sensors and noise reducing stickers in it.
Best Regards,
Nate


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## ruddyone (Feb 9, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *invisiblewave* »_Before you put third party pads on it, it's also worth checking out dealer prices. They quoted me $95 for rear pads, so the only reason I can see for considering anything else is a possible reduction in dust. If you buy third party rotors, don't bother with cheap ones. You generally get what you pay for with rotors (although dealers are often more expensive than they should be). 

Yea, the OEM pads were actually $64 + shipping. You can get them from 1st VW Parts interestingly enough, they are actually a dealership. I called to add a serpentine belt to my rotor order and talked to the dealership parts manager. 
I wanted to try the Red Stuff pads as I heard they produce less brake dust and the price was about the same. We'll see how it turns out.
Best Regards,
Nate


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## heisenberg2000 (Mar 26, 2008)

*Re: (EricAdams)*

The sensors are not part of the rear brake pads.
For the front pads, its different, the sensors are part of the brake pads.
I found that out the hard way too. I ended up reinstalling the old sensors. After I got the new sensors i had to to take everything apart again just to install the sensors.
I got the pads from Kragen (O Reilly) they checked and found out that some pads include and some do not include the sensors.
My second set was from Textar and it included the sensors and a new set of shims for the callipers.
You are able to see those spring in picture 8 (rotor with pads installed and the calliper next to it) 
GT


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (ruddyone)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ruddyone* »_
I wanted to try the Red Stuff pads as I heard they produce less brake dust and the price was about the same. We'll see how it turns out.
Best Regards,
Nate

Keep us posted! The dealer told me 6000 miles ago that my rear pads were "90% worn", but there's still no sign of the pad warning. I'm expecting the light any day now and I'd like to have the parts ready and waiting.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (invisiblewave)*

I've just finished changing the rear pads. Thanks to Nate for the very clear procedure. It was relatively easy compared to my last car, the only difficulties I had were getting good torque on the bolts because the heads are pretty small, and unclipping the sensor connector, neither of which were a major issue. The pads I used were VW from the local dealer, they were $80 and the kit included the clips, the sensors, and the one-time bolts. Both rotors measured at close to 21mm, roughly halfway through their life, so it looks as if, at least at the rear, the rotors will last through two sets of pads.
One instruction Nate neglected to include was to make sure you give a very clear indication at least 24 hours in advance of starting the job to all offspring, spouses/significant others, passers by, etc, that you will be completely unavailable for a minimum of 2 hours. This essential step will hopefully save you from the fate of getting one side done then having to down tools to go and accompany Junior at Alice In Wonderland while her mother watches some other inappropriate chick flick.


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## ruddyone (Feb 9, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (invisiblewave)*

Hey Martin -
Just curious, did you end up renting the caliper piston tool or did you find a different way to do it?
Best Regards,
Nate


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (ruddyone)*

Hi Nate:
Wow, great post. I just got around to reading it now.
I am a bit scared to do any work that has to do with the engine or the brakes (basically, if the part has grease or dirt on it, I leave it alone), but your post really explained the process well. 
Maybe next time the car needs brakes I will ask the technician if I can do the work under his supervision. But, at my current rate of mileage accumulation (about 1,000 miles a year), I don't think it is going to happen soon.
Michael


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## maverixz (Feb 16, 2005)

Great post Nate. I'm don't tinker with things like that on my car but enjoy learning so when I discuss with either the service advisers or technicians, I sound smart & knowledgeable.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (ruddyone)*

No, I rented it from Autozone. It was $60, so I took it back when I was done. They're available on Ebay for $40, but Autozone's only 5 minutes away, so it's unlikely I'll bother buying one. It certainly makes the piston retraction very easy, it'd be worthwhile renting it even if the piston didn't need to be turned rather than messing around with a C clamp.
Are you doing the fronts anytime soon? I know someone posted about the fronts not being difficult, but having looked at the caliper I'm still not 100% sure about doing it myself. Mind you, the dealer recently changed my front pads so I've probably got another couple of years before I need to do them anyway. It'll be tyres next....


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## ruddyone (Feb 9, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *invisiblewave* »_Are you doing the fronts anytime soon? 

Yea, I'll probably be doing them in the next couple of weeks when I swap my snow tires. I'm hoping its similar but I'll let you know.
Nate


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## mrsharkbait (Oct 22, 2008)

*I did mine*

Thanks for the write-up, it was very handy. A few items of note: 

The rotor may be held in place by a regular Phillips set screw instead of Torx. 
For the 17mm open wrench, you need a thin headed one, because the guide pin does not provide adequate clearance for normal thickness wrenches. Metric thin wrenches are actually not that easy to come by; I found some cheap ones at a dollar store and it worked. 

I bought the rear kit from Blauparts.com. It includes the pads and rotors, sensor wires and the spring clips. 

The local O'Reilly store actually loaned the caliper tool to me. They charged my credit card for the full price, and credited back the entire amount upon return. 

I used a nylon tie and strapped the caliper by the bolt-eye to the anti-roll bar. The height was just right so I can apply a vise-grip (I have the sliding ones) to the other eye and clamp it to the suspension arm. This provides plenty of support for retracting the cylinder. 

Also at this point you need to inspect the guide pins. These are the 2 bolt-like pins with the rubber boots. They should be free; you should be able to rotate them and pull them out easily. In my case one of the 2 pins got rusted solid, causing uneven wear to the pads and rotor. Freeing it up is a story for another day. 

The results were great. The rear brakes are silent and performance seems to be the same, if not a bit more assertive. 
One thing you need to check after you remove the caliper and


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## Tully Lee (Jan 3, 2011)

After hearing from the dealer $1400 plus for a brake job- I think I will do this one myself when the time comes up. 

Great detailed info & pictures. 

Thanks, 

Tully Lee


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## Panther427 (May 20, 2012)

Can you get the rear pad wear sensors by themselves

Cori


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

There's this whizzy new-fangled thing called Google!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Centric-Rea...on&hash=item1c282f66f9&vxp=mtr#ht_1427wt_1141


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## SwissW12 (Feb 7, 2012)

Hi Michael,

could you please reload these photos? 

Thanks


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

I regret I don't have those photos, because I was not the original poster.

I will send a message to Ruddyone and ask him to email me the photos - then I can host them.

Michael


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## AlanX2033 (May 9, 2011)

Hello!
I was wondering if there was by chance an update on the re-hosting of the pictures.

Thanks!
Alan


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## zenmoused (Nov 6, 2008)

Mods, can we please have these photos rehosted? 

Thanks, 
Brian


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

It can be done without the pictures without any difficulty. The only thing you might have a bit of trouble with is the routing of the sensor cable, it's not a big deal but take a photo of the old one if you're worried. Everything else is straightforward, especially if you've done brakes before. The setup is also the same (or very nearly) as the A8, this thread has pictures of that: http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articles/susp_whls_brake_steer/rearbrakes.html 

The only unusual thing about the job is the 17mm lock nut on the caliper pins, which requires a slimline spanner (wrench). Note that the pistons require the twist tool for retraction.


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## zenmoused (Nov 6, 2008)

Thanks, I'm actually not too worried about the procedure- I've done the job before on every other car I've owned, and they're all about the same. What I'm trying to ascertain is how many brake sensor wires the Phaeton has. My other cars have had 1 in front, 1 in rear, whereas I can't seem to find documentation on the Phaeton. 

Also, has there been a thread on what brake pads people like for their Phaetons? The sheer weight of the car seems like it would benefit from some more stopping power. I'm thinking EBC RedStuff but haven't heard anyone on here using them. 

Brian


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

It's one sensor per wheel. I looked at various pad options but ended up with the original VW parts, I couldn't find any others that were clearly better, and there wasn't much price difference (after haggling). The VW pads also come with the sensor wires, new spring clips, and new caliper pin bolts (which I think are single use). The stopping power of the original brakes is second-to-none, imo, including all the various Porsches I've owned. My only complaint is the amount of dust. I'd be surprised if you found aftermarket brakes that stopped the car any better.


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## zenmoused (Nov 6, 2008)

Thanks for all the info! 

Brian


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## ruddyone (Feb 9, 2009)

Hello Friends - 

I had pretty nearly forgotten about these pictures. Many of mine were hosted with Apple (MobileMe). I had been a long time subscriber and they ended up canceling that service. Unfortunately, the way I had linked to the photos left me with no way to decrypt which picture went where. So, I had to re-write this. Hope its helpful. 

All my best regards, 

Nate


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## zenmoused (Nov 6, 2008)

Nate- you rock. Thanks for rehosting! 

Brian


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Nate, how did those pads work out? Is there less dust with them?


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## Fahrspass (Nov 21, 2010)

invisiblewave said:


> Nate, how did those pads work out? Is there less dust with them?


 I've owned Nate's car since 2010 and the brakes have been excellent. No dust, amazingly little wear. I highly recommend them. 

-Toby 

PS: yes, this means Nate has been continuing to post on the Phaeton forum three years after he gave up his Phaeton. That deserves some major kudos!


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

I might try 'em next time in that case. I get fed up with having to wash the wheels every 3 or 4 days!


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## Phaeton2 (May 18, 2013)

I noticed one thing in your last photo showing the caliper piston pushed fully in. The rubber boot around the piston is twisted for some reason. The rubber boot should collapse by folding into place. It should not be twisted. I don't know the reason this occurred but I suspect the non-vw tool may have turned and compressed the piston at the wrong rate. I don't know if the twist will work itself out with time but the twist could cause the rubber boot to prematurely fail.


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## gwiken65 (Jul 8, 2016)

Phaeton2 said:


> I noticed one thing in your last photo showing the caliper piston pushed fully in. The rubber boot around the piston is twisted for some reason. The rubber boot should collapse by folding into place. It should not be twisted. I don't know the reason this occurred but I suspect the non-vw tool may have turned and compressed the piston at the wrong rate. I don't know if the twist will work itself out with time but the twist could cause the rubber boot to prematurely fail.


Hi.
The reason for this is often dirt of small particles around the rubber, or rust.
I think in this case the rubber must be cleaned before pushing it in. It's important due to small pieces of stone or dirt can break the rubber. I always clean the it before pushing it. I use a toothbrush first to remove as much as I can, then some wd40 on a cloth and clean.

My rubber has come loose, so I must take it apart and recond it, hoping it's not too rusty. 
I bought new piston and rubber on Ebay, and now it's only the piston-tool, and some nice weather.
Wiken 

Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk


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