# MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures



## caymandiver75 (Jul 28, 2003)

Well thanks to the the DIY that MRP2001GTi posted I was able to do the rear brakes today on my girls 2002 1.8t Jetta today. The DIY's that I have come across for the rear brakes are ok, but pictures seem to be missing. Threads are worthless without pictures right? I've enjoyed this forum so much and have really appreciated all the help that I thought it was time to add my own contribution. This DIY for the rear brakes with photos and won't disappear unless photobucket kicks the bucket. haha


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (caymandiver75)*

Very nice. This should be added to the FAQ.
I recommend an extra thin 15mm wrench from a bicycle tool-set since many standard 15mm wrenches just won't fit the tight space. More notes on that along with the rear caliper tools here:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...11541



_Modified by phatvw at 12:14 PM 7-22-2007_


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## caymandiver75 (Jul 28, 2003)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (phatvw)*

I had no problems with a standard craftsman 15mm open end wrench. Maybe certain years require a thinner one?
Also I should have mentioned in the last picture to pump the brakes a few times before going out for a spin. Just don't want people to be surprised by the pedal going to the floor at first.


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## caymandiver75 (Jul 28, 2003)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (caymandiver75)*

Wow 127 views and only one person had any response? I'll just take that as a good thing then. 
Oh and something else I forgot to mention. Install at your own risk.


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## HilF (Jan 10, 2004)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (caymandiver75)*


_Quote, originally posted by *caymandiver75* »_Wow 127 views and only one person had any response? I'll just take that as a good thing then. 
Oh and something else I forgot to mention. Install at your own risk.









probably cause there is nothing more to say. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Tjim1960 (Jul 26, 2007)

Nice job....one question;
Where did you get the "Special Tool" to push the cylinder back in? I took my caliper off and using a Vise, could not get it to go back in...is it junk - or was it because the vise was likely not pushing radially straight enough??


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## caymandiver75 (Jul 28, 2003)

*Re: (Tjim1960)*

I got the tool from Advanced Auto parts. When you push the rear piston in it has to be turned at the same time, which is what the "special tool" does. Just use the tool and go nice and slow until you hit resistance.


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## Tjim1960 (Jul 26, 2007)

*Re: (caymandiver75)*

Great! Thanks.


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## whizy (Aug 25, 2006)

*Re: (Tjim1960)*

nice post....
i'm having a bit problem here...
I install rear rotors (not pads those looks fine to me)... I don't use the tool & push caliper back on the new rotors (bit struggle & with rubber hammer) ..... everything looks fine then but tire wasn't moving freely .. after test drive, Rotors & caliper was very HOT & smell bad. 
short story ... after 30 miles the smell is gone & tire spin freely, rotors won't get that much hot but now one side rotor is squealing in lower speed braking. I'm not sure that I have to reset the caliper or I have to change the pads same time or I should just use some "Stop Brake Squeal" spray...
PLEASE HELP


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## mescaline (Jul 15, 2005)

you probably burned off your pad, i had the same problem when my ebrake was stuck... now both rotors and pads are shot.


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## JettaGLS2002 (Jun 10, 2007)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (caymandiver75)*

Where did you use Anti-seize 13?


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (JettaGLS2002)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JettaGLS2002* »_Where did you use Anti-seize 13?









On the "holding screw" for the rotor and on the hub-rotor interface.


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## sweater (Dec 22, 2005)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (caymandiver75)*

...just parked my '03 in the street after moving it around using no brakes. I've got one of the cube tools with two points ground down, but it wasn't doing squat. I mean, I'd press in and turn... and turn... and slip off and bust another knuckle... and press in some more and turn some more.
Nothing. No movement in on either rear caliper (just to compare and make sure the driver's side isn't hosed. Either that or both are sized or just plain hosed).
Logged in, go to the brakes forum and saw this godsend of a DIY. I'm now convinced I've got to find that caliper tool and go at this again.
Thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
- mike


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (sweater)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sweater* »_...just parked my '03 in the street after moving it around using no brakes. I've got one of the cube tools with two points ground down, but it wasn't doing squat. I mean, I'd press in and turn... and turn... and slip off and bust another knuckle... and press in some more and turn some more.
Nothing. No movement in on either rear caliper (just to compare and make sure the driver's side isn't hosed. Either that or both are sized or just plain hosed).
Logged in, go to the brakes forum and saw this godsend of a DIY. I'm now convinced I've got to find that caliper tool and go at this again.
Thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
- mike

You can do it with the cube tool. You need to mount the calipers onto the axle with the rotors off. Then alternate between rotating with a ratchet and pressing with a c-clamp. You can't get enough pressure by just pushing on the ratchet - you need the c-clamp.


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## sweater (Dec 22, 2005)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (phatvw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *phatvw* »_You can do it with the cube tool. You need to mount the calipers onto the axle with the rotors off. Then alternate between rotating with a ratchet and pressing with a c-clamp. You can't get enough pressure by just pushing on the ratchet - you need the c-clamp.

*Thank you.* 
The original DIY I was working off of didn't mention that (plus with the pics being down...).
Off to Carquatocheckerzone tomorrow to pick up one of those kits.
- mike


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## sweater (Dec 22, 2005)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (sweater)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sweater* »_Off to Carquatocheckerzone tomorrow to pick up one of those kits.

Can I make one point very clear:
*Use the brake caliper retraction tool when doing the rear brakes on a MK4.*
I would go so far as to suggest not bothering doing this job without one. It was a free loan (or $35 to keep) from AutoZone, and took care of retracting the caliper piston in 30 minutes for both sides. I spent about 3 hours battling those yesterday.
Thanks again for the help and the writeup.
Oh, and the OEM/Hawk HPS combo just about kicks ass. 
- mike


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## Rico#919 (Sep 5, 2007)

just got done changing my rear pads. thanks to this thread, i saved a lot of money. the tool was a free loan from pep boys. i only paid for the pads. no problem so far. I had the cube, it did not fit my piston.


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## caymandiver75 (Jul 28, 2003)

*Re: (Rico#919)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Rico#919* »_just got done changing my rear pads. thanks to this thread, i saved a lot of money. the tool was a free loan from pep boys. i only paid for the pads. no problem so far. I had the cube, it did not fit my piston.

Glad the thread helped you out with the rear brake change.







I've come across several DIY threads that have saved me a lot of time and money and this was my contribution back to the forum. Now go have yourself that beer you deserve.


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## Rico#919 (Sep 5, 2007)

just opened my beer.







was i supposed to lubricate anything? somebody asked me.


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## Jon718 (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: (Rico#919)*

just a quick question for everyone:
1) How do you know if you have a seized caliper?
2) If you compress the piston will it come back up? i.e. do i need to quickly reinstall the rotors and pads? 
3) Is it necessary to install the thin metal plates over the pads (the stuff u spray disc brake quiet on)? I didn't see any on the photos in this DIY so I'm wondering that was omitted?
TIA !!!


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## caymandiver75 (Jul 28, 2003)

*Re: (Jon718)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jon718* »_just a quick question for everyone:
1) How do you know if you have a seized caliper?
2) If you compress the piston will it come back up? i.e. do i need to quickly reinstall the rotors and pads? 
3) Is it necessary to install the thin metal plates over the pads (the stuff u spray disc brake quiet on)? I didn't see any on the photos in this DIY so I'm wondering that was omitted?
TIA !!! 


Not sure about 1 and 2, but 3 I sprayed nothing on any brake parts except for brake cleaner or wd-40. You can put some anti-sieze on the bolts, but that is also optional.


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## bliznack (Feb 7, 2005)

*Re: (Jon718)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jon718* »_just a quick question for everyone:
1) How do you know if you have a seized caliper?
2) If you compress the piston will it come back up? i.e. do i need to quickly reinstall the rotors and pads? 
3) Is it necessary to install the thin metal plates over the pads (the stuff u spray disc brake quiet on)? I didn't see any on the photos in this DIY so I'm wondering that was omitted?
TIA !!! 


Typically with a siezed rear caliper, your brake pads on that side won't disengage when you remove the parking brake. Just happened to our Miata.
Also, I didn't see you support the caliper when doing the work. You shouldn't let the caliper hang by the brake line.


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## Jon718 (Aug 14, 2007)

Ok just got done doing one side, however i just tried the other side and my special tool is stuck in between the caliper and piston!!! I can't turn it anyway which way as I've fully depressed the piston and now can't remove the tool. What should I do now?


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## JettaGLS2002 (Jun 10, 2007)

*Re: (Jon718)*

You have to use wrench to release the special tool


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## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: (JettaGLS2002)*

If you want to save some time you dont have to remove the carrier. The rotor will come out. Now if you have studs for yours wheels you will have to remove the carrier







Nice write up


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## Fixxxer (Nov 15, 2002)

*Re: (O2VW1.8T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *O2VW1.8T* »_If you want to save some time you dont have to remove the carrier. The rotor will come out. Now if you have studs for yours wheels you will have to remove the carrier







Nice write up

You beat me too it. I was scanning the post for any mention of not having to remove the carrier. Not a big deal if you do, but it saves a few minutes by leaving it on.


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## JettaGLS2002 (Jun 10, 2007)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (caymandiver75)*

The special tool number is 27111 from AutoZone.


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## Rhezuss (Feb 1, 2005)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (caymandiver75)*

I'm having a bit of a problem.
On the caliper carrier, there's those 2 "pistons" (sorry don't know the exact term, see red circles on 3rd photo). They are completely stuck in rust. I guess they are supposed to move freely causes there's one that is moving ok but the others don't so I can't replace the caliper since the new pads are thicker.
What to do?
Thanks!


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## Meanie5470 (Oct 9, 2007)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (Rhezuss)*

hey sorry to bring this back but im having issues with my rear brakes on my mkIV Jetta. Ive got the piston tool and everything but as I turn it it wont go in at all, it only turns. I tried going counter clockwise and it backs out but clockwise it wont go back in lol. Granted I dont have my rotors off and the caliper remounted but would that really make a difference?


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (Meanie5470)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Meanie5470* »_hey sorry to bring this back but im having issues with my rear brakes on my mkIV Jetta. Ive got the piston tool and everything but as I turn it it wont go in at all, it only turns. I tried going counter clockwise and it backs out but clockwise it wont go back in lol. Granted I dont have my rotors off and the caliper remounted but would that really make a difference?

Yes! take the rotors off and remount the caliper. Makes it so much easier.


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## Meanie5470 (Oct 9, 2007)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (phatvw)*

ok yea **** this retarded setup. I got it all done and all but damn what a pain in the a$$ lol. 1 more question tho, what would happen if I lost 1 of the metal clips in 1 of the calipers? Very bad things?


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## Rico#919 (Sep 5, 2007)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (Meanie5470)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Meanie5470* »_hey sorry to bring this back but im having issues with my rear brakes on my mkIV Jetta. Ive got the piston tool and everything but as I turn it it wont go in at all, it only turns. I tried going counter clockwise and it backs out but clockwise it wont go back in lol. Granted I dont have my rotors off and the caliper remounted but would that really make a difference?

try opening the brake fluid reservoir. this happened to me, the fluid being pushed back needs somewhere to go. i kept trying to push it, when i opened the reservoir, it easily retracted.


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## greekin2 (Sep 26, 2006)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (caymandiver75)*

good thread... getting ready to do my rear brakes.... good write up


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## greekin2 (Sep 26, 2006)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (greekin2)*

just finished and write up is a must read. one word of advice... get right tools.... pushing pistons back in.... pain in the !!!!!! right tools = job getting done faster and easier !!!


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## renglish (Jun 30, 2004)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (greekin2)*

more tips: 
1) spray down the bleeder valve with penetrating oil before starting
2) when compression piston, it is much easier to bleed the caliper while using the "special tool" -that way you are not forcing brake fluid back thru the system. -just into your waste brake fluid container -and arguably easier your on ABS and Master Cylinder.
3) if in a Winter salt area -toss some anti-seize on the rotor hat- if you have alloys -so they don't get stuck on. -nothing like trying to change a wheel that won't come off.


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## taurus (Dec 14, 2002)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (caymandiver75)*

i noticed you used brake cleaner around the piston. people should make sure their brake cleaner is safe to use on rubber.


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## gyprgy (Oct 30, 2007)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (caymandiver75)*

Cheers fella for the info http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I have chaged the disks on my polo al last. However when i trying to retract the caliper piston with the tool, the piston spirngs back out when i take the tool away , leaving no space to fits my pads. Do i need to open the brake fulid resevoir( i have left the hand brake off). Frustrating or what, i have new disk but still the old pads on!!!!
Cheers


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## talknmime (Mar 16, 2005)

At what point during the install do you use the Anti-Seize, Brake Cleaner, WD-40? Do you need to put Anti-Squeal on the pads?


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## gNYp (Jan 11, 2004)

*Re: (talknmime)*

Do you need to remove the parking brake cable? (E-brake cable)
THanks!


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: (gNYp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gNYp* »_Do you need to remove the parking brake cable? (E-brake cable)
THanks!


No, you can leave it in place.


_Quote, originally posted by *talknmime* »_At what point during the install do you use the Anti-Seize, Brake Cleaner, WD-40? Do you need to put Anti-Squeal on the pads?

- Spray brake cleaner on both sides of the rotors right before putting the wheels back on. Wipe with a clean shop towel.
- WD-40 for loosening bolts.
- anti-seize for lug bolts
- anti-squeal paste - goes on the BACK of the brake pad - the part that touches the caliper, not the rotor
- hi-temp brake lube - goes on the caliper guide pins - there are two pins per caliper



_Modified by phatvw at 4:12 PM 11-28-2007_


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## gNYp (Jan 11, 2004)

*Re: (phatvw)*

Thanks! 
So we just release the E-brake when doing the rear brake job, no need to remove the cable.
I will try to do my rear brake job this weekend!
gy


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## ntc1976 (May 9, 2008)

*Re: (gNYp)*

Just had to say I saw this post while searching for a guide to do my brakes and it helped me so much.
The first wheel took me about 4 hours because i couldnt get the hex screws out....i tried for 2 hours and finally realized i could just leave on the carrier and slip the old rotor off. rest of the time was double and triple checking my work.
I know its cheating and made the rest of the process diffrent but in the end it was all good.
second wheel......the screw on the rotor almost stripped trying to get out








then it finally came out and i was so happy.....untill i couldnt get the old rotor off.....it was like fused to the base.....hour of screwing with it and it finally came off lol.
all in all it was a very satisfying experience.
thank you again for this guide.


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## The Wasp (May 5, 2008)

Hey, I just did the rear brakes on my mkIV GLI 1.8t. I put on drilled, slotted, and vented rotors on which are OEM size. I also put on OEM ceramic pads because the previous owner had non-ceramics on and my wheels were always covered in brake dust. Anyway, my brakes smell like the're burning when i park the car and walk past the rear wheels. my front ones, which i switched a week earlier, don't. when the car is lifted the wheels spin freely, and there is no uneven or wierd wear marks on the disc, so my question is, is the smell normal for new pads and will it go away?


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## The Wasp (May 5, 2008)

Okay, so I don't think there is a problem, I drove the car for a good 15 minutes without using the brake pedal once. parked the car and felt the temperature of the rotors, they were still cold. and the bad smell has died away.


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## D03GLIR (Oct 21, 2004)

*Re: (The Wasp)*

Glad to see someone updated pics and revised this. I also just finished my rears using old DIY threads w/ no pics and found a few things that might help others, most from prior brake experience.
1. If your rotors are grooved badly, you can pry the caliper/ pads radially from the rotor w/ a large screwdriver- loosen the bleeder if the cylinder won't budge. Worst case, pull the carrier but normally it isn't needed.
2. The phillips screws holding rotors is usually rusted tight. Apply WD40/ PB blaster etc and use a # 3 bit for a power driver and tap the bit installed in the screw w/ a hammer. You should now be able to back out the screw easily.
3. The Metalnerd cylinder compressor/rotator is awesome and well worth the $$. I have not used the loaner tools but this special purpose tool and "bonus" thin 15mm wrench is well worth it.
4. Silicone RTV antisqueal on the cylinder face and surfaces that support outer pad are good insurance. Hi temp silicone brake grease on all metal to metal interfaces. Antisieze on other threads. Grease on hub to prevent wheel binding in future.
5. Blue loctite on the caliper slide bolt threads, silicone grease on the smooth parts.
6. Inner pads fit loose in calipers, outers are tight. Maybe just mine but it was the same for both sides.
7. Some wire should be used to hold the calipers up once removed from the carriers. You wouldn't want to pay for the lines going from the caliper to the mid lines (nearest break point). I'm sure they are not cheap.


_Modified by D03GLIR at 11:41 PM 7-12-2008_


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## MidFloridaVR6 (Jul 13, 2008)

*Re: (D03GLIR)*

Im going to do my rear brakes today, i bought the brake caliper tool kit from harbor frieght for like 30 bucks. I hope it works good, because I have only owned a VW for about a week now. Wish me luck.


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## MidFloridaVR6 (Jul 13, 2008)

*Re: (MidFloridaVR6)*

Okay so i just got back from fams house doing the brakes. I was going to put rotors on to but didnt because i didnt have any wd40 with me to soak the hex bolts that hold the caliper bracket on. they werent budging and i didnt want to strip them also florida weather was closing in on me. But good news is that that tool from harbor frieght made my rear brake job only last 45 minutes. And i have only done brakes twice before and never on a volkswagen. so it was pretty easy. Thanks for the help. never would have done it without you guys. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 2000VRSIICCKK (Apr 7, 2008)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (caymandiver75)*

dude that was soooo helpful hahah thanks i was like







before i found this now im like


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## RyanPetersen (Oct 12, 2008)

Thanks for the DIY, looks extremely helpful - I am actually looking forward to doing mine for the first time here this month. Hoping I can find the tool over here in Germany or I'm going to have to wait for one to be shipped from the states. As others have said, the old one was missing the pictures and as I have only checked the pads on the rear I didn't understand how the piston was threaded and such. Thanks again!


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

*Re: (RyanPetersen)*

A few additions to some great DIY write up work:
1)Pull caliper slide pins outa the carriers and clean em good then lube with "synthetic brake caliper grease"...DO NOT use regular grease..it will not stand the temps and is harmfull to rubber sealing boots.
2) Apply some antisieze on the little screw that locks rotor to hub and also a thin wipe around the hole of the rotor so it won't sieze to the hub. DO NOT apply antisieze to wheel lug bolts (seen this in other DIY write ups...not a good thing to do...reccomended against in shop manuals.
3) Apply a layer of "Brake Quiet" to the pad backings (unless the pads you buy already have antisqueal shims bonded to the backs as some do)
4) Either buy new caliper lock bolts or apply a drop or two of "Locktite Blue" to the threads.
5) Someone with MKIV Bentley chime in with proper torque ratings for:
carrier bolts:?
caliper locking bolts: ?
wheel lug bolts: ?
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## jason bouchard (Aug 25, 2005)

*Re: (spitpilot)*

bump for a good thread, i love how close a community you VW guys are. . . wish the audi guys were alittle more close like this at times http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## dirtymanpon (Jul 22, 2008)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (caymandiver75)*

Great DIY. Thanks. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

*Re: (Rico#919)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Rico#919* »_just opened my beer.







was i supposed to lubricate anything? somebody asked me.

When you change pads you should always clean and regrease (with Synthetic Caliper Grease...not plain ol axle grease) the caliper guide pins (on the back they're inside the carrier (the head of them is what you put the 15mm open ended wrench on to unscrew lock bolts). Work boot off carrier gently and pull out the pins, clean with Brake Clean and smear on some SCG!...Keeps calipers from hangin up and destroyin you're new pads..and cookin all the grease outa your wheel bearings in the process!


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## dallas04gli (Jun 25, 2007)

great diy. thanks.


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## 1pt8t (Mar 14, 2007)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (renglish)*

Did you use a widowmaker jack?







Thanks for the DIY even tho it's super old. Seems to be the only one with pics for the rear brakes.


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## rorofast (Mar 17, 2007)

*Re: (spitpilot)*


_Quote, originally posted by *spitpilot* »_A few additions to some great DIY write up work:
1)Pull caliper slide pins outa the carriers and clean em good then lube with "synthetic brake caliper grease"...DO NOT use regular grease..it will not stand the temps and is harmfull to rubber sealing boots.
2) Apply some antisieze on the little screw that locks rotor to hub and also a thin wipe around the hole of the rotor so it won't sieze to the hub. DO NOT apply antisieze to wheel lug bolts (seen this in other DIY write ups...not a good thing to do...reccomended against in shop manuals.
3) Apply a layer of "Brake Quiet" to the pad backings (unless the pads you buy already have antisqueal shims bonded to the backs as some do)
4) Either buy new caliper lock bolts or apply a drop or two of "Locktite Blue" to the threads.
5) Someone with MKIV Bentley chime in with proper torque ratings for:
carrier bolts:?
caliper locking bolts: ?
wheel lug bolts: ?
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


oh oh guys.. i put anti seize on my wheel locks. should i clean it off? Just had a hard time taking them off and I thought putting anti-seize on it will make it easy on me.


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## czeresniak (Oct 3, 2008)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (caymandiver75)*

Excellent post!!! If I can only add one thing always check/clean/lubricate caliper slides.


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## 1pt8t (Mar 14, 2007)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (czeresniak)*

DO NOT start any job that requires taking off the rotors without a good rust breaker / bolt loosener like PB Blaster and a heavy rubber mallet (unless you have a second car to get them after you have the wheels off).


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## Chupa999 (Feb 23, 2008)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (1pt8t)*

I am trying to compress the passenger rear caliper with the special tool, it will not budge, even while bleeding the brake line. I just finished the other side and had little problems? Yes my E brake is off. 
EXTREMELY STUMPED???


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## Dippin'Dub (Dec 16, 2007)

ECS tuning sells an awesome brake caliper piston tool made by schwaben for like $40, it comes in a pelican case with fittings for all differnt vehicles vw's included. It made the rear brake job so much easier, i was very happy with it, and i can use it on my other vehicles too!


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## Ame46mkI (May 5, 2008)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (caymandiver75)*

Used to replace a rear caliper, very helpful thank you http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

*Re: (rorofast)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rorofast* »_
oh oh guys.. i put anti seize on my wheel locks. should i clean it off? Just had a hard time taking them off and I thought putting anti-seize on it will make it easy on me.








 Bentley specifically says "DO NOT lubricate wheel lug bolts" I just clean em on my power wire wheel if they look dirity when I pull the tires for rotation/brake fluid flush. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 1pt8t (Mar 14, 2007)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (Chupa999)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Chupa999* »_I am trying to compress the passenger rear caliper with the special tool, it will not budge, even while bleeding the brake line. I just finished the other side and had little problems? Yes my E brake is off. 
EXTREMELY STUMPED???

Really late, JIC anybody else forgets - You have to prevent the pressure nut (the nut the shaft goes thru) that pushes the plate against the caliper from rotating by using a wrench. Otherwise, you're not pushing the caliper in, you're just rotating it until it can rotate no more. At that point, you also can't spin it backwards, you have to just push it directly in w/out rotating it anymore. So don't just put the tool on and start spinning the little handle... GL!


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## jschweg (Nov 29, 2003)

This is a really great DIY, with awesome pictures. Thanks for doing this! I will be using it this weekend.
Not to hijack, but I noticed that one of my rotors is missing it's set screw. Do I have to stop over at the dealership to get a few replacements, or can they be had anywhere?


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## Vdub 2.0 (Jan 8, 2008)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (caymandiver75)*

question, may brakes are squeeking sometimes when pressed on lightly, i bought the car with 46k and was told it had new breaks dont really know how true that is now, well the car is about to have 51k on it and was wondering if anyone could help me out? pm me please, thanks


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## 1pt8t (Mar 14, 2007)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (Vdub 2.0)*

What do you clean your wheels with?


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## superman2002us (Sep 13, 2008)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (caymandiver75)*

Great post...I've got a 1996 Golf GTI VR6, just wanted to know if all the stuff you did jives for my vehicle as well. I can never remember is mine is MKIII or MKIV. Thanks


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## wolf799 (Apr 28, 2003)

Bump... So I can find this quicker


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## Grig85 (Feb 11, 2006)

*Re: (JettaGLS2002)*

thats a great write up.


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## anndreuw (Jan 9, 2008)

*Re: (Grig85)*

i Cant get my front rotor off i tried the brake cleaner, wd-40 and beating the **** out of it with a malet, wont budge. i took the caliper off and the holder screw off. any idea? some guy said we should use rust breaker, would that do the trick??


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## anndreuw (Jan 9, 2008)

*Re: (anndreuw)*

I just found out today that the way to get stuck rotors off is to hit the mounting center part of the rotor with a hammer. I tried beating the crap out of the outer rotor (where the pads rub) and nothing. I hit the center part with a hammer a couple of times and like that they popped off, worked on all for rotors


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

*Re: (anndreuw)*

You can also torch the rotor "hat" a bit around the hub..not too much and don't torch the hub itself..you don't wanna cook the grease outa the wheel bearings! That will loosen up siezed rotor/hub area..I always apply a little antisieze to the inner side of the rotor hat and around the hole edge and to the lock screw as well to make "next time " ezier! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Iknowbetterthantotry (Jan 2, 2009)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (caymandiver75)*

Why am I thinking I can do my own brakes ?
For the love of God and all that is holy someone please talk me out of this. Its a bad bad idea.
Still the pictures make it look easy....SHUT UP ! There I go again. I fall over when I tie my shoes. Oh cmon its not that bad YES IT IS SOMEONE LOCK ME UP !!!
The last time I tried doing brakes I was out in the rain at 3am with a flashlight in my mouth crawling around in the grass looking for springs and screws. I had to wait till the sun came up to call a tow truck.
Seriously Im an adult Im not retarded. Thats a lie I am retarded.


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## dirtymanpon (Jul 22, 2008)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (Iknowbetterthantotry)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Iknowbetterthantotry* »_ I am retarded.










I'll vouch for that.

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


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## sti2relaxxin (Dec 31, 2008)

Why does everyone take off/replace their rotors? It seems like every thread regarding the rear brakes describes taking the rotors off. I will be replacing the pads on my wife's GLi and wasn't planning on doing the rotors. I just replaced the pads on my STi and it was cake; these VW brakes couldn't be more complicated. Holy Hell!!
>>Edit-I own a Subaru and just couldn't understand that removing the lugnuts allows you to remove the rotor by just unscrewing that phillips head. I also see there is no way to compress the piston unless you remove the rotors. Sorry for my ignorance!


_Modified by sti2relaxxin at 8:46 AM 2-18-2009_


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## VWpanDUH (Apr 24, 2008)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (caymandiver75)*

So i just changed my rear pads last night, But me and my friend didnt change the rotors. Everything was working fine last night, until today on my lunch break from work... I was driving back to work and my break were smoking like crazy!!!








why could this be!?! Help please!!!!


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## JettaDriver85 (Mar 16, 2009)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (caymandiver75)*

Great DIY caymandiver! This saved me $750!!!


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## ATPTourFan (Jul 14, 2003)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (VWpanDUH)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VWpanDUH* »_So i just changed my rear pads last night, But me and my friend didnt change the rotors. Everything was working fine last night, until today on my lunch break from work... I was driving back to work and my break were smoking like crazy!!!








why could this be!?! Help please!!!!









I had just changed my rear pads & rotors and noticed that my driver rear brakes were hot and burning up the pads and other hardware.
After checking this thread out, I cleaned the caliper sliders under the boots and while doing that noticed that my ebrake cable receiver thing had not snapped back "up" to the OFF position, hence the squeezing of the rotor all the time.
I cleaned that metal ebrake cable receiver and it's joint, but the cable still would not reset to off position.
Then i traced the cable and noticed it got "swollen" about a foot from the caliper. Apparently, one of the supporting metal hooks had dug into the rubber surround and allowed water to enter the cable assembly. Sure enough, there's gotta be all sorts of corrosion making the cable difficult to slide freely.
That's definitely my problem. Passenger side cable looks perfect and moves much more freely than the driver side that's messed up.
I'll be buying the cable asap for this weekend. Until then, no e-brake for me. Glad I figured this out before destroying my new rotors, pads, and burning up all the grease in the wheel bearing.
Thx everyone!


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## Don Miller (Oct 11, 2007)

Thanks for an excellent write up.
I did my brakes front and rear today on my 2001 Audi S3 but after the install my brake pedal goes nearly all the way to the bottom. The brakes works but the pedal travel is way too long. I have EBC Turbo Groove discs and EBS Red stuff pads on the car. 
Is it just a matter of bleeding the brakes?
Cheers


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## J6speed24v (Jun 24, 2009)

*Re: (Don Miller)*

does the pins on the rear pads have to be wedged in between the opening to be held up??


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## aydn (Jul 7, 2009)

Hi all, finally registered!
Today, my rear right caliper seized. Thankfully there was a shop across the parking lot, 5 minutes from closing. The mechanic said the e-break cables were fine (replaced 500 km ago) but the caliper was the problem and should be replaced. He estimated about $100 Cdn for the caliper but $450 with labour. I did the calculus and that seems a bit high for a 1-2 hour job.
Do i really need to replace the caliper? Can't I just replace the spring inside of the caliper that hooks that cable? He just unhooked that cable and I'm driving with only the rear left cable attached right now. 
Thanks!


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## MKS13 (Jul 30, 2007)

*Re: (anndreuw)*

I cant stress enough to GET THE PISTON TOOL!! I waited to sun evening to do my rear brakes only to wonder why my needle nose pliers were uneffective in getting that piston in (works with nissans btw). Couldnt find anybody with it on hand. Had to drive around with NO brakes on the rear pass side for a day or 2


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## deepclue (May 18, 2009)

*Re: (MKS13)*

Great DIY; it was extremely informative and made the job much easier than I thought it would be.
I'd like to add that the VW/Bentley manual specifically says you should use new bolts. You can buy them at Advance Auto Parts or NAPA stores for $20. You pull out the pins from the bushings, apply synthetic caliper lubricant on the new ones, push them in, then use blue threadlock on the new bolts.
I don't have the MkIV manual, but the torque specification for the MkV R32 is 35 N*m for the rear bolts, which is what I used.


_Modified by deepclue at 9:51 PM 8-21-2009_


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## dr_spock (Feb 16, 1999)

*Re: (deepclue)*

The VW OEM rear brake pad set comes with new self-locking bolts and new clips. Makes it really easy. 
Bentley lists the self-locking bolt to tighten to 22 ft-lb or 30 Nm.


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## deepclue (May 18, 2009)

*Re: (dr_spock)*

dr_spock, where do you order OEM pads?


_Modified by deepclue at 11:35 AM 8-23-2009_


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## chuckdubdubdub (Aug 23, 2009)

*8mm Hex Carrier bolt stripped*

Rats. I got the piston tool from Autozone, works great. Did the passenger rear, took a while, but no problem. Got to the rear drivers side, and somehow, I managed to strip out the 8mm hex bolt on the caliper carrier. So I got the new pads on that side, but not the new rotor. :-( 
Any thoughts how to deal with a stripped hex carrier bolt? 
Thanks!


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## deepclue (May 18, 2009)

*Re: 8mm Hex Carrier bolt stripped (chuckdubdubdub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *chuckdubdubdub* »_Rats. I got the piston tool from Autozone, works great. Did the passenger rear, took a while, but no problem. Got to the rear drivers side, and somehow, I managed to strip out the 8mm hex bolt on the caliper carrier. So I got the new pads on that side, but not the new rotor. :-( 
Any thoughts how to deal with a stripped hex carrier bolt? 
Thanks!

Light sabre?


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## dr_spock (Feb 16, 1999)

*Re: (deepclue)*


_Quote, originally posted by *deepclue* »_dr_spock, where do you order OEM pads?

_Modified by deepclue at 11:35 AM 8-23-2009_

I ordered mine from my local VW dealer's parts department. You can probably find places to get them on the Internet. Google is your friend.


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## mkivtwopointo (Aug 24, 2009)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (caymandiver75)*

k, so pic # 8 what is "the special tool" i understand everything except that. when i had imagined this process i skipped that step. 
so. what does the special tool do? why cant you just put new brake pads into the calipers and slide it on? 
i appreciate this post as it is something i am planning in the near future. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## deepclue (May 18, 2009)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (mkivtwopointo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mkivtwopointo* »_k, so pic # 8 what is "the special tool" i understand everything except that. when i had imagined this process i skipped that step. 
so. what does the special tool do? why cant you just put new brake pads into the calipers and slide it on? 
i appreciate this post as it is something i am planning in the near future. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

The special tool resets the piston by pushing it as it turns it clockwise. Front brake pistons need only be pushed. You can get this tool for $40 at ECS Tuning.


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## dr.chop (Apr 8, 2009)

You all can buy the tool kit for the calipers at Harbor Freight also. It is $20 for the single set and $35 with 2 tools and piston tools. Autozone here is $50 deposit (refundable when returned or you paid for the tool if you keep it)...Don't mess with the cube or one of the round heads on a ratchet, it just will piss you off more than anything.


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## ypsetihw (Nov 20, 2008)

gotta do my rear pads, this will be great


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## 1986 jetta gli (May 1, 2004)

I ordered these Zimmermans for my rear end. http://www.mjmautohaus.com/cat...d=984
The oem rear rotor cover (thin metal piece) is too small for the Zimmermans to fit snugly into...
Where can i buy an aftermarket rear rotor cover that will fit over the new 256mm Zimmemans??????
Please help need to get car on the road asap.. Thanks in advance!!!


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## vwraddo93slc (Jan 2, 2007)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (caymandiver75)*

you are a champ thanks this helped http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## mpglavan (Sep 20, 2009)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (milk4brains)*

That is a great writeup. I did mine before reading this post and made a mistake of damaging the caliper so I had to get a new one. Now that they are back my pedal is really soft. I am able to brake, but it has to be pressed all the way. I am able to move the caliper by hand - there is play between the pad and caliper. So I am wondering if the new caliper is damaged, where it will not stay close to the pad after brake is released. What I mean by this is that it is not unscrewing when pressure is applied.








Thanks for the help!


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## 1986 jetta gli (May 1, 2004)

*Re: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures (mpglavan)*

So the piston has to be pushed in all the way??? Till i cant turn no more??
I did the drivers side rear already and i pushed the piston in almost all the way...
Is it gonna be a problem that i did not push it in untill it stopped turning?


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## iVW (Apr 22, 2005)

Just another thanks to the guy who created this DIY. Planning a brake job on the wife's 02 GTI. Had I not read this before hand I'm sure it would have been another story where some guy is sitting in his garage with a c-clamp wondering what the hell.
Have done a couple brake jobs but thought it might be smart to research the vw job first. Glad I did.
It's nice to have the pics. They help.
Thanks!


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## scottbob99 (Jan 28, 2008)

*Re: (iVW)*

I just finished my rear pads, I got the tool from Advanced Auto (loan). Probably the easiest brake job ever!!!
I would not attempt without the tool.
OK, I'm off for a test drive and return the tool, then a frosty one when I get home.








Great thread, thanks


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## d-golf81 (Jan 26, 2004)

Thanks for the great write up, I've been searching for pics to do this. Great Job!!


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## jiinxsta (Nov 26, 2007)

*Thanks for the great diy writeup and pics! Much appreciated!!*

Did my rear brakes on my mkiv gti this afternoon!! Replaces rotors and pads! Replaced with Brembo rotors and hawk ceramic pads! It was a breeze with this DIY!! Pics very helpful! Thank you very much!!!! 

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## HeartOfGold (Nov 26, 2006)

*...or for the allen wrench*

This is a great write up. The pix of the tools shows a basic L shaped 8MM allen wrench. 

My carriers were on so tight that I had to run out and pick up an allen socket and a longer ratchet. Still took a lot of liquid wrench and a lot of patience.


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## 69bug (Aug 10, 2002)

what was wrong with your original rotors? they didn't look bad. good thread other than that. if you're going to replace your rotors, you should of upgraded with cross drilled, slotted or both. why stick to OEM?


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## KG18t (Aug 9, 2006)

Slotted/drilled isn't necessarily an upgrade. Are you aware of the functions of either and the cons? For most things, there's no point. Also, from the pictures, you can't really tell quite how worn they are.


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## That_Crayon_Smell (Jul 12, 2009)

*sheared a bolt*

Thanks for this DIY op. 

Everything was going great, even got the rotor retainer screw out after a quick squirt of PB Blaster (magic in a bottle), until i was trying to remove one of the "self locking?" bolts for the sliders. This is the bolt that someone shows in the pic below with all the brake pads and stuff from an OEM kit. Luckily i was able to get the caliper over everything and was able to screw the nut back in place. This broken bolt is now a "stud" and I was able to tighten the slider nut completely. 
Ill be checking this problem area for awhile to see if everything is still ok. 

Will have to figure out what kind of bolt this is and pick one up. I should be able to drill it out and use a new bolt. 

Murphy's law....


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## Iguana Man (Feb 17, 2005)

Sorry to bump an older thread but I need to make sure that the tools and steps listed here apply to the 04' R32 as well. And that there is no scan tool needed to release the e-brake. 

Thanks!


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## boib (Jan 18, 2011)

*Thanks*

This turorial was just great, it made it so easy. I used the caliper brake kit and it was a breeze.
I bought some pads from Canadian Tire and also rented the tool kit from them, it was free but I did
have to leave a $120 deposit, got the money back when I took the tool kit back.


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## rajuncajun37 (Apr 25, 2008)

Iguana Man said:


> Sorry to bump an older thread but I need to make sure that the tools and steps listed here apply to the 04' R32 as well. And that there is no scan tool needed to release the e-brake.
> 
> Thanks!


Glad you bumped it, I gotta do rear brakes on my R32 ASAP. Wish me luck


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## jaso028 (Aug 12, 2007)

I know this is old... 
but on most MKIV's you can get the rotors on and off without pulling the carrier off... 
it will save you a step and the possibility of screwing up the allen bolts... 

I know on the 04.5's GLI's it might be more difficult to get the rotors off without pulling the carrier...


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## Blue87 (Nov 9, 2011)

I just wanted to thank you for posting this thread, I'm getting ready to do my rear breaks this weekend and its great having a thread w/ pictures included! I know its an old thread, but its still a great reference!

PS going to rent the tool from autozone - $60 deposit that you get back when you return it


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## phekno (Aug 8, 2007)

Thanks for the thread. Did pads and rotors both front and rear. I'm curious, though, is it supposed to smell hot or burning after the initial test drive? I literally just got done doing this, so I'm wondering if I did it right. I didn't use any synthetic brake grease, but I could if necessary. The calipers seemed like they moved around pretty well on the carrier.


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

Did you clean the preservative off the rotors before you installed them? If not the smell could be the coating burning off the rotors.

Did you lubricate the slide pins at all? You wrote about not using a synthetic brake grease, but did you separate the calipers and carriers and lubricate the slide pins with anything? The slide pins could be seizing (generating the smell).

Did you use a tool to retract the caliper pistons completely so the new brake pads could slide easily into place, or did you retract them only far enough so you could jam them in? The brake pad clearance is set by working the parking brake handle, after you have the rear brakes reassembled. If you didn't retract the brake pistons far enough, the brake pad clearance could be too small, causing the pads to rub on the rotors all the time (and the smell).

Have you tried lifting the rear of the car, and spinning the wheels? There should be minimal rubbing of the pads on the rotors, and minimal sound. If it take some effort to spin the wheels due to brake friction, then the rear brake pad clearance is too small, and you probably didn't retract the pistons far enough. Or, maybe the pads are defective (too thick).


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## Hedgehodge (Nov 7, 2008)

Uhhh ****, I think I put antseize in the wrong spot. I put it on the bolts that hold the carrier and on the spindle? (After the rotor is off) I. should I wipe it off? Wouldn't that just help the rotor not stick on? Can you even misuse anti seize lol? I accidentally put blue threadlock on the rotor screw and went to put antiseize on...to late its stuck lol. W/e iboth fronts broke off (reading that those screws just make alignment easier when installing wheels again) 

Should I wipe anteize off back of rotor/spindle area (not where pads touch)? 
Should I put antiseize on front rotor (top of tophat part,not hwere pads touch)


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## Hedgehodge (Nov 7, 2008)

guess ill find out ;o, about to bleed and test drive it xD


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## Hedgehodge (Nov 7, 2008)

going to slab some antiseize on both sides lol....i did have the left rear wheel tire stick on even after the lugs were off sooooo.


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## Hedgehodge (Nov 7, 2008)

phatvw said:


> _Quote, originally posted by *gNYp* »_Do you need to remove the parking brake cable? (E-brake cable)
> THanks!
> 
> 
> ...


 


Okay well, anti seize on lug nut bolts is a super bad idea haha...gf was going 50 mph and wheel started shaking and got to work and noticed they were so loose that she could move them with her fingers....When i put it on there I was like HMMm this seems stupid. Is it just me?


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## isando (Jun 11, 2012)

*springs on the ends of the pads*

hello,
I have a question or two. What is the purpose of the spring things attached to the outer side of the pads? Should those go into the slot on the caliper? I was able to get one in there but not the other.


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## undwirtanzten (Feb 9, 2011)

renglish said:


> more tips:
> 1) spray down the bleeder valve with penetrating oil before starting
> 2) when compression piston, it is much easier to bleed the caliper while using the "special tool" -that way you are not forcing brake fluid back thru the system. -just into your waste brake fluid container -and arguably easier your on ABS and Master Cylinder.
> 3) if in a Winter salt area -toss some anti-seize on the rotor hat- if you have alloys -so they don't get stuck on. -nothing like trying to change a wheel that won't come off.


 i agree with this. it is much easier to compress the piston while bleeding the valve at the same time....you're supposed to change your brake fluid every 2 years anyway, and with 2 years being the average lifespan of low end brake parts, it just makes sense to bleed them while changing them.........just make sure you bleed them properly (ie with a hose attached to the valve on one end and submerged in brake fluid on the other end) to make sure you dont end up with any air bubbles in your brake lines. seen too many career mechanics leave air bubbles because they thought they were good enough to bleed without the hose, and there's really no way to be certain the fluid you're purging doesnt have air bubbles without it passing through a clear hose so you can inspect it.


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## Klaus Daimler (Jul 7, 2012)

how much did you pay for said special tool, in the initial picture of the tools used it looks like you got a brake caliper piston retracting set i'd well imagine that was a pretty penny


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## ajcarp (Aug 4, 2012)

*Caliper Tool*

I just picked up the caliper tool at Harbor Freight today for $40. Great DIY from the OP, thank you! Also thanks to all those who posted additional helpful comments. Once all my hardware arrives next week, I'll be ready for battle thanks to everyone!


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## chippercat (Jun 4, 2012)

So I followed these instructions and it was simple as pie. The passenger side brake pads and rotors were completely replaced in 1 hour 15 minutes. The drivers side...that took 1 hour 45 minutes because 1) the upper caliper bolt was a bitch to pry loose and 2) the caliper piston was pressed in so much even the brake tool wasn't helping. I had to play with it a bit to get it to fit before I could spin it into place. That's what happens when you let the pad get metal to metal.

Thanks for the awesome write up. After 5 miles of good stopping and accelerating, glad to report no smoke, smell and the ebrake works fine. Like others have suggested, make sure you have a very thin 15mm open ended box wrench. My Craftsman worked fine, but was a pain in the ass at the beginning to fit it in.

The caliper tool is a must! I rented one from Autozone. They charged me $60 deposit which I get back when I return the tool. Also most brake pad kits (OEM and a few others) come with replacement bushings and bolts, so use them and make sure you use the right kind of grease on them or they will get fried!

Now to get my beer and prepare for an alternator job tomorrow. Cheers :beer:


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## Dohrt (Jun 29, 2013)

*Thank you*

Great post,

I found out it was possible to insert caliper compression tool with caliper still mounted but its not easy nor recommended. 

Post saved me at least 200 us


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## ghent96 (Sep 4, 2009)

...I hate Volkswagen... Seriously, I swear the engineers sat around plotting how to make our lives more difficult and repairs more expensive...

It MUST be noted in the OP that the special tool is required due to needing a caliper compresser with a presser plate with 2 tabs/studs on it to fit into the caliper cylinder. It MUST be turned as you push it in. If you're strong enough to grip, press & turn pliers I'm the two grooves, that would work also. It is IMPOSSIBLE to simply push straight in the rear, stock brake caliper piston

Had my own caliper compresser tool from my old mercury and the front end brake job on the Metra, but totally ruined it trying to use it for the rear calipers.  I dunno the internals of the piston/cylinder but atm it sounds like the stupidest design ever, whose only point is to piss us off & waste money on "special tools" or extra labor costs ay the mechanics...


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## Hodgepodge08 (Jan 31, 2014)

ghent96 said:


> ...I hate Volkswagen... Seriously, I swear the engineers sat around plotting how to make our lives more difficult and repairs more expensive...


I'd have to agree. Trying to replace my rear calipers this weekend. Spent 30 minutes trying to remove the banjo bolt from the banjo to use the new one and couldn't get the damn washer off. Decided to just try to reuse the bolt. After I reattached the banjo bolt to the new caliper it was leaking. Tried to tighten it just a bit more and boom, stripped all the threads out of the new caliper. Only to read later on that the banjo bolt/washers aren't supposed to be removed and if it leaks the brake line needs to be replaced. My bad on over tightening but really? Replace the brake lines if you remove the banjo from the caliper?


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## swimrr (Jan 8, 2009)

*Reset ABS Light?*

I've just replaced my rear pads and rotors, including the ABS wheel speed sensors b/c my ABS light was on. The sensors were pretty gummed up due to me letting the brakes go to metal (long story) :banghead: Anyway, my ABS light is still on and I was wondering if I need to get the codes cleared before they light will go off, or if it should go off from driving alone. If it should go off on it's own then I've got a different issue to deal with.

TIA


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## zactastic (Dec 23, 2010)

I can't get the piston to compress, ive tried both sides. please help.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ton-not-compressing&p=101832785#post101832785


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## bbagnall (Dec 5, 2015)

*Pictures no longer show up*

To the OP, it looks like in July 2017 Photobucket dropped hosting photos to third party websites such as VWVortex. They are demanding that you upgrade your account in order for it to host 3rd party pictures. There's an article on this here:
https://www.ghacks.net/2017/07/02/photobucket-alternatives-for-third-party/

Any chance you could move those photos from Photobucket to a different service that is free, such as VGY:
https://vgy.me/


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## radlynx (Jan 4, 2007)

watch this one from start to finish.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uEgOqKAVBr8

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

In a pinch you can use a short piece of pvc pipe to turn the pistons back into the rear calipers. I had a bench grinder handy, but a hand held grinder or file (takes longer) will work. Simply file the pipe until you have two tangs protruding from one side of the pvc. 

I wrapped the other side of the pvc with part of a rag and duct tape to cushion your palm. Now you can line up the tangs on the pvc with the recesses on the caliper piston. Now just push slightly to get the pvc tangs to bite the piston. Once you have freed the piston with a twist you can start muscling the piston back in with a harder push and turn.

Don’t be afraid to add more duct tape or rag if your palms get sore. Save to tool you made in the bottom of your tool box if it worked well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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