# How high can you go on the RPM range with a ABA 16V...



## robertTT225 (Apr 9, 2007)

I have a built block Pauter rods J&E istons etc. also titanium retainers and high rev valve springs, custom intake and exhaust mani.
I want to buy a Precision 6262 turbo and would like to make good use of it lets say like extending the power up to 9k rpm or 9.5k rpm. Is it posible? do i need something else to make this hapen?
If anybody has a similar set up how high do you go on the rpm range?
Thanks


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## robertTT225 (Apr 9, 2007)

bump


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## kompressorgolf (Dec 6, 2005)

couple things, make sure you have the valvetrain for it, i.e. heavy duty valve springs, titanium retainers etc. then you should have the bottom end balenced and blueprinted. balance the intermediate shaft for good measure, even still,
i dont know if i would push 9.5 or even 9! 8500 should be plenty! good luck! make a video, i want to hear an ABA 16VT with a near 10000 RPM song to it!


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## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

just be aware that revving a motor higher significantly shortens the life of a motor, and puts substantially more strain on it.

the other problem is that unless you have the cams to rev to that range, its pointless regardless of what turbo you have.


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## Little Golf Mklll (Nov 27, 2007)

TBT-Syncro said:


> just be aware that revving a motor higher significantly shortens the life of a motor, and puts substantially more strain on it.


Can a stock pump even pick up oil at this speed?

Or would you have to switch to a dry sump system?


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## RAINWAGEN (Sep 25, 2008)

I want to see this cuz im building a 16vt I only want 150-200hp tho


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

At the track i have recorded 8700rpm shift points in the first 3 gears,
I run a ABA 16v w/ GT3076 @ 24-26psi.
I only have HD spring and a set of TT 268 cams w/ altered lobe centers.
my rev limiter is set to 9krpm, I have discovered that the higher rpm
are not good for the OEM crank trigger wheel bolts. I have sheered them twice
before i made my own trigger setup. 
I would also suggest a Fluidamper Harmonic ballancer for the high rpm
rotational forces.


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## killa (Nov 26, 2000)

REPOMAN said:


> At the track i have recorded 8700rpm shift points in the first 3 gears,
> I run a ABA 16v w/ GT3076 @ 24-26psi.
> I only have HD spring and a set of TT 268 cams w/ altered lobe centers.
> my rev limiter is set to 9krpm, I have descovered that the higher rpm
> ...


Todd just broke his too and i can def. do the same... I bet welding the bolt would have prevented the gear from coming apart though.
Sucks either way.


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

I saw his post, the weld job looks nice but i would be concerned with the balance of the crank after the welding was done. 
Aaron did the same thing on his drag audi, welding the trigger wheel bolts. i was going to do the same thing but
I like the idea of moving the trigger wheel inside of the harmonic balancer, closer to the 
main bearing for the most support against wobble/ocillation any vibration that could
cause the signal to break up. so far so good, my setup has worked great, 10,000 miles and 3 race event without any issues.
:beer::beer:


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## robertTT225 (Apr 9, 2007)

I do have titanium retainers and high rev springs also the engine is going to be balanced not blueprinted tho. I wasnt considering the fluidamper pulley but i am now. Any sugestions on cams??


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

if you are planning on going to the moon at 9500 rpm then a 276 or 288 cam would be the 
one you want. if won't idle very well but run like mad.
you might also want to go solid lifter to get that RPM. Hyd will float the valves and cause damage.
so a solid lifter will be needed.


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## Richard_Cranium (Mar 28, 2010)

hey. i heard my name. 

we even did the oil pump bolt. cant be too sure these days.... the timing gear, we just tacked each bolt twice good tacks. they wont come out.


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

There is really no point to turning the motor to that rpm. You would be better off putting that money into driveline parts.


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## zoidmk5 (Sep 17, 2006)

as stated above, somewhere in the mid-high 8K range should be more than enough, but you do need the valvetrain to support it. boost will more than likely just start dropping off the table at that range, and even if it does hold, you will not have any boost before probably 5k


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## robertTT225 (Apr 9, 2007)

I was looking into a solid lifter set up but i havent find any place that sells them. Already check a few places like 034, bahn brenner, techtonics, IE, PPT etc. Let me know if you guys know were to find it. 
Thanks again for your help.


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## zoidmk5 (Sep 17, 2006)

robertTT225 said:


> I was looking into a solid lifter set up but i havent find any place that sells them. Already check a few places like 034, bahn brenner, techtonics, IE, PPT etc. Let me know if you guys know were to find it.
> Thanks again for your help.


techtonics has emm. not sure where exactly you looked on their site, but i just found emm

http://www.techtonicstuning.com/mai...t_info&cPath=2_12_54_403_351&products_id=1580


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## turbodub (Jul 6, 2000)

revving that high will cause the flywheel to come loose. once that happens the next thing that comes apart is the crank gear and the trigger. moving the trigger will not solve the issue if the flywheel still comes loose. also at a little over 9100 the hydro valve train will start to float. even with aftermarket stuff valvetrain.


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## VDUBIN (Jun 28, 2001)

you will need to have your flywheel balanced as well up to 12k to prevent vibration from something that may be balanced to only 8k. the higher the rpm the more precision is needed. also I would recommend getting your pressure plate balanced as it has a large mass rotating at a long distance from the center. there is a lot of vibrational leverage there.


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## turbodub (Jul 6, 2000)

VDUBIN said:


> you will need to have your flywheel balanced as well up to 12k to prevent vibration from something that may be balanced to only 8k. the higher the rpm the more precision is needed. also I would recommend getting your pressure plate balanced as it has a large mass rotating at a long distance from the center. there is a lot of vibrational leverage there.


if you buy a real clutch/flywheel it is already balanced. no extra balancing is needed. what is needed is extra flywheel bolts. the guys in PR have been doing this for years. ed from forcefed is now doing this as well for customers. this is what is needed to be done if you wanna rev high. however 8500 does the trick just fine and usually doesnt cause any isues.


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## lugnuts (Jul 26, 2001)

The 62/62 is a nice turbo for a 16v to make big power. You can make 600-700 with a good powerband if you have the right combination. You don't have to rev over 8,500 to do it either.


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## mk2jerm (Jul 18, 2007)

Solid lifter head and crazy cams. :thumbup:


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## zoidmk5 (Sep 17, 2006)

lugnuts said:


> The 62/62 is a nice turbo for a 16v to make big power. You can make 600-700 with a good powerband if you have the right combination. You don't have to rev over 8,500 to do it either.


 ^^^this guy knows what he's talking about :thumbup:


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## robertTT225 (Apr 9, 2007)

The reason that i was asking about the high rpm range is because i was looking to participate in the true street category on NSCRA and the limit in turbo is 67 so thats whats everybody is using and with that biger turbo i thought i needed more rpm to make good use to it. But im still starting with the 62 and go from there.


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## turbodub (Jul 6, 2000)

robertTT225 said:


> The reason that i was asking about the high rpm range is because i was looking to participate in the true street category on NSCRA and the limit in turbo is 67 so thats whats everybody is using and with that biger turbo i thought i needed more rpm to make good use to it. But im still starting with the 62 and go from there.


 you are 100% right with the 67mm. you do need to rev high. i had a 67 on my car earlier this year, we reved it to 9500 and made 644 at 34ish psi of boost. however it had a so so power band and also rattled everything in the motor apart reving that high. now after waterfest when i discovered i sucked something up in the turbo it got me thinking. the 6262 i had last year was awesome, but power fell off early. wonder how the 62/55 would do especially with a bigger exhaust housing and well it worked. very nice actually and with only revving the car to 8500. now the true street thing. another thing that had me thinking about going back to a 62 was jason hunts new car. he flat out said hes sticking with a 62 cause the weight limit is 2250 in true street. so with the 62 i took approx 200lbs outta my car and got it down to 2360, seems to be working pretty good so far.


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## lugnuts (Jul 26, 2001)

Robert, it's cool that you want to race in true Street, that is what we are going for in this car. 
I'd recommend going to a T4 on the exhaust right off the bat, and doing a 62/65 turbo. Find yourself some cams and you'll be in business. Let us know if you need anything.


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## robertTT225 (Apr 9, 2007)

At what RPM are you guys getting full boost with 6262 or 6265 on a 4 cyl. Also if i get the 6265 T04 what would be better .58, .68, .81. Thanks again guys. :thumbup:


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## lugnuts (Jul 26, 2001)

We were de-tuning the boost to get traction on the dyno. it is almost all-in at 6,000 rpm with the 62/65. 

I'd recommend starting with the .68 T4 at least. Once the cams are right, a big turbine doesn't hurt the spool at all. 










The old 6262 set-up made more boost sooner, but the power was lower than it is now and it died up top at a lower rpm.


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## Jeebus (Jul 8, 2001)

/\ Todd's hit 700whp?... I know it was close but that's really awesome! Amazing work.


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## radoboy (Oct 2, 2000)

lugnuts said:


> We were de-tuning the boost to get traction on the dyno. it is almost all-in at 6,000 rpm with the 62/65.
> 
> I'd recommend starting with the .68 T4 at least. Once the cams are right, a big turbine doesn't hurt the spool at all.


 What cams do you recommend Kevin?


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

Jeebus said:


> /\ Todd's hit 700whp?... I know it was close but that's really awesome! Amazing work.


 Yeah-- it's still got some more in it, but wheelspin was an issue and Todd didn't wanna break it (more) on the dyno.


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## turbodub (Jul 6, 2000)

radoboy said:


> What cams do you recommend Kevin?


 the schrick 268's seem to be the best so far with some tweaking. the autotechs you have are supposed to be pretty good as well.


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

So I guess if he is running that class what kind of power are the class cars running? This would be the best method to determine what cams he should run but using dynos that Todd already has.


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## robertTT225 (Apr 9, 2007)

lugnuts said:


> Robert, it's cool that you want to race in true Street, that is what we are going for in this car.
> I'd recommend going to a T4 on the exhaust right off the bat, and doing a 62/65 turbo. Find yourself some cams and you'll be in business. Let us know if you need anything.


 If i use a T3 instead would that be better to reach full boost sooner and obtain the same amount of power???


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

robertTT225 said:


> If i use a T3 instead would that be better to reach full boost sooner and obtain the same amount of power???


 It all depends on the amount of power your aiming for. Turbines are like tires. Big tires go faster but will get you there slower. small tires will get you there faster but the top speed will be less.


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## lugnuts (Jul 26, 2001)

It's something that you would not notice on the track most likely. People get all wrapped up in numbers and spool. Once the cams are right the spool will be good for any turbine. If you are serious about racing then it's best to not limit yourself by choking it up with the smallest turbine housing right away. However, the T3 turbine housing will still be pretty fun and run 10's either way.


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

turbodub said:


> the schrick 268's seem to be the best so far with some tweaking. the autotechs you have are supposed to be pretty good as well.


 What turbo/ turbine housing you running Brien? I tried dusting-off my brain but I can't remember. Autotechs work really well with a moderate turbine housing, the Schrick 268's with less backpressure.


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## Richard_Cranium (Mar 28, 2010)

Mark Morris said:


> What turbo/ turbine housing you running Brien? I tried dusting-off my brain but I can't remember. Autotechs work really well with a moderate turbine housing, the Schrick 268's with less backpressure.


 found elsewhere in the 16v forums i think.... could have changed though. 




> Brien (Radoboy)
> 
> Block: 9A
> Pistons: 83mm JE 9:1
> ...


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

Is that the setup you're currently running Brien?


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## radoboy (Oct 2, 2000)

Mark Morris said:


> Is that the setup you're currently running Brien?


 
Yeah still the same setup, but the SC61 has seen better days. If things go well, I'll upgrade turbos this winter so I'm also considering swapping cams. Only thing with the turbo choice is I'd rather keep a t3 hotside due to my manifold, but building a t4 manifold is also an option. Thanks for the advice guys. I'm pleased with the ASTs and SC61, but am ready for more power.


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

Todd is still running a T3, so it isn't a huge deal. Knowing what we do now, and building for a goal of 700+ a T4 would be ideal, but you know how that goes.... Really the cam selection comes down to backpressure. You wanna keep it as close to 1:1 as possible to make the bigger cams really work well. Todd is running the .82 housing on the 65mm exducer, so his backpressure doesn't get crazy at the higher boost levels. 

I don't know when your AMS mani is gonna become a restriction either-- it's a really nice design for a cast, but will it hold you back? I don't know. Really the best bet is to log backpressure in the turbine on the track and see where you are at. I'd do that now before you swap cams/ turbo. Then I'd prolly do the same with the new turbo. At that point I'd take a look at cam specs and make a stab at it. Good luck, and keep us posted. :thumbup:


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

Oh I forgot to ask, what power levels are you looking for now? I can't remember where you are right now either. You ran an 11.0 in the Corrado iirc? It is pretty heavy iirc.


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## radoboy (Oct 2, 2000)

Thanks you've given me a lot to think about. Logging back pressure isn't a problem and I've done this in my vr6. I guess I have nothing to lose by keeping the ASTs in there, waiting until I select the next turbo/manifold, then seeing how I look backpressure wise. I can then upgrade cams when/if the time comes. 

Power wise I am not even sure what it makes these days. I've had issues nearly every dyno session, but it runs well on the street/track so that's where I've tuned it. The car hasn't changed in a few years and was running low 11s at 130s. As far as goals go, 600-700 seems like a nice number . I'll keep you guys posted and chat with you on VWS a bit closer to that time.


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## Richard_Cranium (Mar 28, 2010)

radoboy said:


> chat with you on VWS a bit closer to that time.


 excellent


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

Cool Brien-- good luck with everything.


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