# 09G DIY filter and fluid change 6 speed auto



## samarra85k5 (Nov 16, 2013)

DIY Automatic transmission (09G) service/ fluid and filter change

Thanks to Hindsight at passatworld.com, I used some of his pictures. This is for instructional use, I do not assume any responsibility for damage to your vehicle or injury to your person. That said my car is at 150Kmi with never a problem with the transmission, this was my third time to do this service. For clarity this is for the 09G 6 speed Automatic triptronic transmission. Mine happens to be hooked up to a 2.5L in a 2006 Jetta.

What you will need:

5 mm allen wrench (and/or T30 Torx wrench)
10 mm socket w/ ratchet and extension (3/8 drive)
3ft. 5/8” ID clear vinyl tubing or 3/4” ID flexible hose and hose clamp
Funnel
IR thermometer or VAG-COM device
Small Rod of some sort, or flat head screwdriver
Cleaning solution
Rags
Catch Pan
4-6 quarts ATF
AT filter kit
VAS 6262/2 (pictured in step 8; Optional, if you have a fill port)
I have also heard of people using an M10x1 to Hose barb fitting, cutting M10x1 threads in a small pipe, and drilling a hole through an M10x1 bolt. If you are going to do this the threaded end of your device must match the threads on your drain plug or you will damage your pan (I have read the drain plug is M10x1 threaded, but I have never checked myself) I have no experience with this I have always used my fill port. Also if your using this tool/method you can disregard the tubing/flexible hose listed above, I do not know what size or how long the necessary tubing is for this step, but you will need tubing of some sort.

1. Jack up the car or the front at least and place your catch pan. The drain plug is a stainless steel plug located towards the rear right-hand side of the transmissions oil pan, you will need to determine by gaining view of your drain plugs socket, if your drain plug uses a T30 Torx or 5mm allen wrench.

2. If you are going to fill through the transmission fill port with the red snap ring (pictured below) keep reading  If you are going to fill through the drain port (using VAS 6262/2 or equivalent) skip to step 3.










You will need to release the snap ring either by inserting something small (in my case the end of a circuit probe (pictured below)), or split open the ring with a flat head screwdriver.










To pull the fill plug out of the fill port it may be necessary to remove the harness bracket that is bolted onto the lower starter bolt. As you can see in picture 1 it is very close and gets in the way. I don’t remove it b/c it is one more thing to forget so if you’re like me it is possible to work around. After removing the fill plug you may want to place a rag over the fill port opening.

I decided to spring for new fill and drain plugs, snap-ring, and crush washer from the dealer (pictured below), this is my third time to do this and the snap-ring and drain and fill plugs were getting worn out. A new crush washer is not an option, as the name indicates the old crush washer will be spent upon removal. I have never used anything but the crush washer from the dealer so I cannot vouch for replacing it with an copper or aluminum washer… 










3. Back to the drain plug now, insert your wrench and remove the drain plug. Above the drain plug there is a stand pipe, the picture below depicts the stand-pipe and old drain plug in orientation of assembly, on the left side; the old fill plug and snap ring are to the right. 










Remove the standpipe by inserting the 5mm allen wrench into the drain port in the transmission oil pan and unscrewing it in the same rotational direction as to remove the drain plug. (See picture below) Allow transmission fluid to drain.










4 Next unbolt the transmission pan and remove it from the transmission. There are 8 10mm bolts located around the perimeter of the pan (see picture in step 5). I find it helpful to hold the pan up against the transmission with one hand and remove the bolts with the other hand. When pulling the pan down from the transmission keep it as level as possible. There will still be some fluid in the pan.

5 Upon removing the pan from the transmission take note of the 2 rectangular magnets in the deep section of the pan, one near the drain plug the other more forward and to the Left-hand side. Also remove the old gasket from the pan, but take note also of the metal spacers in the gasket. Not all AT filter kits come with new spacers, if your kit does not include these, remove them from the old gasket, clean and place in new gasket. Clean the pan and magnets thoroughly. Replace in pan the magnets and standpipe. If filling through the fill port replace drain plug with OLD crush washer; Only hand tight the drain plug it need not be torqued in at this time. If filling though drain port leave drain plug out at this time. Place the new gasket with spacers on pan, it’s asymmetrical so it will only fit one way and the skirts on the gasket should hold it on the pan. Picture below for reference










6 The filter is bolted towards the rear of the valve body of the transmission with 3 10mm flange head bolts, remove the transmission filter. See picture below










Keep the catch pan under the filter when removing it, there is fluid trapped behind the filter that will pour out when the filter comes loose. Once the filter is removed, thoroughly clean the gasket mating surfaces of the filter and pan. I also gently wipe off any hanging transmission fluid at this time. Install the new filter with the 2 irregular shape cork surrounded holes (picture below) not visible or facing up, and the rectangular slot facing down and visible. Then reinstall the cleaned transmission oil pan, with new gasket.










7 Preparing to fill the transmission, if you are filling through the drain port (with VAS 6262/2 or equivalent) skip to step 8. If you are using the fill port slip your hose over the fill port, (pictured below). If you are using 5/8” ID vinyl, you will need to heat the end of the tube to get it to expand enough to fit over the fill port. I VERY CAREFULLY dip it in a cup of hot water.










I clamp the tube on to the fill port, but only hand tight with a screwdriver b/c I use the smaller diameter tubing the clamp is more for my own peace of mind than to make a seal (pictured below) If you use ¾” ID tubing, you will need to clamp with force, I do not know how tight to clamp as I have never used this size tubing. My reason for considering ¾” ID tubing is when I measure the fill port on its ridge with a slide caliper its diameter measured 0.77in. OD.










Route the hose towards the top of the engine bay between the motor and radiator and insert the funnel into the end of the hose. (pictured below)










8 If filling through the drain port, attach VAS 6262/2 (pictured below) or equivalent to the drain port










Once attached slip a tube over the open end of the VAS 6262/2 or equivalent tool. The other end of the tube may be attached to a fill cap (pictured below), or a funnel can be placed at this end.










9 Before adding new fluid to the transmission I pour my old fluid in to an old oil bottle to gauge roughly how much to add. 4 quarts came out (pictured below) so I will be adding about 5 quarts.










Once you have an idea about how much fluid to add start pouring










Or squeeze your fluid in 










10 Once done filling the transmission with fluid if using the fill port: unclamp and remove hose-funnel assembly, insert fill plug and replace red snap-ring (I fill mine until it can take no more, 5 quarts, pictured below).










If you are filling through the drain port you can either pull the hose off the VAS 6262/2 or equivalent tool and plug it with something; or unscrew/remove the VAS 6262/2 tool and replace drain plug with OLD crush washer. (I could see this getting messy :-/)

11 If you have not made the car level in both planes front to rear and left to right now is the time to do so. It is also time to break out the IR Thermometer, or if you have one hook up your VAG-COM device. If you are using a VAG-COM device you will need to make viewable the transmission fluid temperature. I do not have a VAG-COM device so I do not know how to do this. Also you will need to need to place your VAG-COM device where the transmission fluid temperature is viewable from underneath the car.

12 Start the motor, allow the motor RPM to drop below 1000 RPM. Place your foot on the brake and set the parking brake. Shift though all the gears, leaving the transmission in each gear for at least 10 seconds. Then return the transmission to Park.

13 Exit the vehicle, leaving the motor running and get your IR Thermometer or VAG-COM device, catch pan, and 5mm Allen or T30 Torx wrench and go under the car with the motor still running. Note this is DANGEROUS please be very cautious when doing this. Place your catch pan under the drain plug. See picture below










14 The goal here is to make the transmission fluid level with the top of the standpipe when the fluid is at 40[SUP]o[/SUP]C with the engine running and having previously shifted through the gears. The drain port can be opened between 35[SUP]o[/SUP]C and 45[SUP]o[/SUP]C. Also b/c I use an IR Thermometer I measure the temperature of the transmission fluid at the pan. I like to take the temperature at several places on the pan and use the average. B/c I overfill the transmission by an entire quart I remove the drain plug at 35[SUP]o[/SUP]C and the fluid pours out. Usually about 42[SUP]o[/SUP]C the fluid no longer drips from the drain port (at this point I proceed to step 15) . This may differ slightly for your car. If your transmission fluid temperature exceeds 45[SUP]o[/SUP]C while excess fluid is draining, IMMEDIATELY replace the drain plug with OLD crush washer. Turn off the motor, and allow transmission fluid temperature to cool to below 40[SUP]o[/SUP]C, and then repeat steps 12-14. 

15 With the fluid no longer draining, or dripping very slowly (depending on how rough your motor idles), and the temperature of the transmission fluid not exceeding 45[SUP]o[/SUP]C Install the drain plug with NEW crush washer and torque down. Test drive and check for leaks.


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## samarra85k5 (Nov 16, 2013)

Has anyone found this helpfull? Just looking for some feedback, I have never been a part of a forum or made a post before... This is my first


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## Michael49 (Aug 10, 2011)

samarra85k5 said:


> Has anyone found this helpfull? Just looking for some feedback, I have never been a part of a forum or made a post before... This is my first


samarra85k5, of course it is very useful your thread.- I am waiting for the replacement parts to carry on this job.

I have a question, ¿ why did you disconnected the battery ?

A comment, if you drained 4 Qts of oil, you can refill only 4 Qts, or not?
Thanks a lot for your valuable guide


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## Fantomasz (Aug 15, 2001)

You have filling hole on top of tanny? I though it's not possible to fill from top.
Replacing half of the fluid make sense.After replacing 3-4qt fluid still be dark and dirty.
We need flush.


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## samarra85k5 (Nov 16, 2013)

Michael49 said:


> samarra85k5, of course it is very useful your thread.- I am waiting for the replacement parts to carry on this job.
> 
> I have a question, ¿ why did you disconnected the battery ?
> 
> ...


I disconnected my battery b/c I was also changing my vacumme pump, at this time. It was gnarly. You could totally do this service with the battery intact. Also you can fill only 4 quarts back in if that is the amount you drain. its my personal preference to over-fill the transmission, and then drain the excess.


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## samarra85k5 (Nov 16, 2013)

Fantomasz said:


> You have filling hole on top of tanny? I though it's not possible to fill from top.
> Replacing half of the fluid make sense.After replacing 3-4qt fluid still be dark and dirty.
> We need flush.


Yes I have a filler port. Its not really at the top of the trans. Its more like midway up the front of the casing. As pictured in the DIY guide, if you have one you cannot miss it with the red snap ring and all. I learned part way through editing this posting that only the early MK5s have the filler port. My best guess is that the filler port was eliminated with the introduction of the MK5.5 with the updated electronics, dash display, radio etc... 

I have serviced my transmission as indicated in this thread, religously every 50,000 miles, even when VW was still claiming these units are lifetime sealed. The old fluid that drains from my trans. is a darker red than the new stuff I pour in. The drained fluid is still translucent and does not appear particularly dirty. However my drained fluid fluid does exhibit foaming which indicates to me that it is losing it lubricating properties and is in my opinion spent. For reference I have only used genuine VW fluid in my transmission, I have used aftermarket filters, and seen no change in performance.

The only way I know to do a "Flush" on this particular model transmission is to repeat the process indicated in this thread. My reasoning for this is most transmissions have a transmission fluid cooler located inside the vehicles radiator with transmission fluid lines running to and from the transmission and radiator. In a true flush these lines are disconnected allowing either the transmission own fluid pump, or an external pump (fluid exchange machine) used to put new fluid into the transmission, while old fluid is expelled through their respective line. With this model transmission there is a cooler however it is located on the transmission, its canister shaped and located at the top rear or the transmission casing, it is bolted directly to the transmission and has coolant lines running to and from it. Total Bummer


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## SNS1938 (Jan 13, 2014)

samarra85k5 said:


> Has anyone found this helpfull? Just looking for some feedback, I have never been a part of a forum or made a post before... This is my first


Brilliant post, very clear, thank you, will be following your guide.


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## boboman- (Nov 11, 2013)

This is exactly what I was looking for. Rolled over 93k experiencing a little slip. Hoping that a nice pan, magnet, filter, and fluid service helps. Thanks a ton for putting in the extra effort and documenting + posting this!


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## SNS1938 (Jan 13, 2014)

I went to a VW dealer today to pick up the odd part. Incase anyone else cares:

1) Crush washers were $4.40 each.
2) Filter $47 (I purchased an aftermarket one online for much less).
3) Sump gasket $47 (I purchased one for $19 + $10 shipping, aftermarket).
4) Red tamper ring which some cars have was $3 I think.

So in general the VW OEM parts are expensive, but perhaps the filter for $47 isn't too bad when my aftermarket is about $30 delivered and will take a week to arrive. I'd like to get into the sump plug washer manufacturing business.

I looked and looked at the fluids, and found significant information stating that Valvoline's full synthetic ATF fluid is suitable, and was about $17 / gallon at Wal-Mart. So I went with that. I figure as the oil change only does half the fluid anyway, that running some Valvoline in the transmission for a few months with help wash out the remaining fluid and I can do a final fluid change for something like the Fuch's fluid then if I still feel the need.


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## Fantomasz (Aug 15, 2001)

I order this kit.I don't think it's OEM since price is low but at least it's new.





http://www.ebay.com/itm/32085879135...iewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OU:US:1120&vxp=mtr


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## SNS1938 (Jan 13, 2014)

Fantomasz said:


> I order this kit.I don't think it's OEM since price is low but at least it's new.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Wow, great kit you've got there. $34 with free shipping for filter and gasket. I will look there next time.


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## MarsPlex (Jul 3, 2013)

did anyone order this kit? Its it OEM?


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## alwaysdutch (Oct 19, 2011)

I assume you drain the overfill by taking off the outer drain plug, but leave the inner drain plug in tact?


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## MarsPlex (Jul 3, 2013)

I have an ELM Bluetooth OBDII scanner what works with the torque app, its reads the trans fluid temperature in real time. This should be enough info right? Also, where exactly is that filler port located? I also have a 2006 2.5 and i fail to see it. And what it the normal temp of the tranny? with the car running for a while it was 74c


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## dapqam (Oct 15, 2012)

I have an idea. Why not heat the transmission fluid to 40-45C in the microwave prior to filling into the transmission. That way I would not have to buy that expensive temperature measuring device (VAGCOM). I still would have to start the car and run through the gears quickly to ensure no air bubbles or unfilled areas existed. Does that sound reasonable?


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## samarra85k5 (Nov 16, 2013)

I believe the inner drain plug you are referring to is what I call the standpipe. You would remove the outer drain plug but leave the inner stand pipe in place, this standpipe controls the level of fluid in the transmission and without it the transmission will not have enough fluid


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## samarra85k5 (Nov 16, 2013)

Mars2012jetta said:


> I have an ELM Bluetooth OBDII scanner what works with the torque app, its reads the trans fluid temperature in real time. This should be enough info right? Also, where exactly is that filler port located? I also have a 2006 2.5 and i fail to see it. And what it the normal temp of the tranny? with the car running for a while it was 74c


If it tells you the transmission fluid temp. in real time your good! At the time I made this post, it was my knowledge that only Vag-Com tools could convey that information. The filler port is located on the front of the transmission casing about the middle (top to bottom) it is possible you dont have one, in this case you would fill through the drain port as indicated in the post. It seems you have determined the normal running temp of the transmission. If I had to guess I would say the transmission runs marginally cooler or the same temp as the engine during normal driving conditions. However this normal running temp. is not relevant to performing this service as the fluid level is checked at 40C.


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## samarra85k5 (Nov 16, 2013)

dapqam said:


> I have an idea. Why not heat the transmission fluid to 40-45C in the microwave prior to filling into the transmission. That way I would not have to buy that expensive temperature measuring device (VAGCOM). I still would have to start the car and run through the gears quickly to ensure no air bubbles or unfilled areas existed. Does that sound reasonable?


This is a very interesting Idea. I have 2 questions to raise about this:

1. Microwaves work by exiting the water molecules in whatever is placed within them, the water molecules move about bumping into their surroundings it is this bumping action that heats your food, or whatever is placed within them. I understand transmission fluid is a bit different, but I dont think petroleum products with the exception of brake fluid can contain or sequester water within them, the water separates out into a separate layer. This means that even though oils are a liquid, they are "dry" in the sense they do not contain water. Is it possible to even heat up transmission fluid (or any petroleum oil) in a microwave?  If you can heat it up with a microwave can you bring it to 40C without the plastic container melting?:facepalm:

2. Unless the ambient temperate is 40C which is about 100F (this would afford you the convenience of not needing to heat the transmission fluid), all of the parts of the transmission are at a much lower temperature meaning due to the lack of thermal expansion the "space" alloted for your transmission fluid is smaller, coupled with the fact that as soon as the engine is started the transmission cooler which is a heat ex-changer with the cooling system would begin cooling your transmission fluid below 40C causing rapid temperature variation in the fluid itself. The means by which you are setting the fluid level is on a volumetric scale and it is unclear to me with all the temperature gradients how you could obtain the correct fluid level? :screwy: Not to mention there is still about 3-4 quarts of fluid you cannot get out of the transmission that would cool the hot fluid immediately upon entry to the transmission.

My best suggestion for not buying a Vag-Com tool is to use a IR Thermometer as indicated in the thread or Mars2012jetta talks about an Elm (brand) obd2 bluetooth scanner with the Torque smartphone app that tells you the transmission temp in realtime, perhaps you could correspond with Mars2012jetta for more details on this scan toolopcorn:


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## Fantomasz (Aug 15, 2001)

After fill up run engine for 2 minutes and You reach 40C.


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## dapqam (Oct 15, 2012)

Fantomasz said:


> After fill up run engine for 2 minutes and You reach 40C.


I assume you are starting with a cold engine at an ambient temperature of around 72-75F? If so that is very helpful information. Please clarify. Usually I like to warm up the car to normal operating temperature before changing fluids. What would be the engine run time assuming a warmed up engine and the 72-75F ambient temperature? (also assuming addition of 72-75F fluid)


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## alwaysdutch (Oct 19, 2011)

How much fluid will typically be needed to refill it, given the TC and cooler has fluid also but not drained?? I just drained my trans and only 2 quarts came out. I wonder if I had not enough fluid put in last time as the trans was starting to slip after warming up in 3rd to 4th gear.....

2 quarts drain is probably too low fluid........


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## truwagen (Jun 14, 2007)

alwaysdutch said:


> How much fluid will typically be needed to refill it, given the TC and cooler has fluid also but not drained?? I just drained my trans and only 2 quarts came out. I wonder if I had not enough fluid put in last time as the trans was starting to slip after warming up in 3rd to 4th gear.....
> 
> 2 quarts drain is probably too low fluid........



Both of my Jetta 09Gs had ~3.5L drain.

*BTW everyone, see here for another couple good DIYs including my own on page 2 showing a custom fill tool:* http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5284006-09G-6-speed-tiptronic-ATF-and-filter-change-DIY


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## alwaysdutch (Oct 19, 2011)

truwagen said:


> Both of my Jetta 09Gs had ~3.5L drain.
> 
> *BTW everyone, see here for another couple good DIYs including my own on page 2 showing a custom fill tool:* http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5284006-09G-6-speed-tiptronic-ATF-and-filter-change-DIY


That isgood to hear because I added 4 quarts of fluid in the trans and started draining at the 36 degrees celcius and by the time it stopped draining (40 degrees celcius), I only drained half a quart.......

I still have an issue with 4th gear so maybe ittakes time to get used to the new fluid and level, or my solenoids or VB is getting bad.


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## SNS1938 (Jan 13, 2014)

Drained my 09G today, twice in fact. It was 142,000 miles on original fluid.

1) First drain, it came out pretty dark, although you could tell it used to be red. Approx 3.25 litres came out. Refilled through the drain port, rather than removing things to get to the fill port. I dropped the sump too, cleaned off the magnets, replaced the seal and filter.
2) Second drain (after 20 miles of driving), came out noticeably redder, but still too dirty for my liking.

Tomorrow will be drain number 3, and then a refill after installing my new valve body.

I used Valvoline Fully Synthetic AFT fluid, which was a tad of $17 for 3.73 litres at Walmart. My research suggested this fluid was appropriate, and for $17 for fully synthetic fluid from a name producer, I'm very happy with it. The transmission feels smoother and shifts nice right up until it gets to temperature and my faulty valve body starts with the missed shifts and hard changes.

I replaced the crush washer both times, but will maybe not replace it next time, as they were $9 each at the stealer. I was blown away. I think I'll invest in a McMaster-Car order of a dozen of each common size I use on different car sumps, diff's and transmissions.


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## alwaysdutch (Oct 19, 2011)

Where did you get the new Valve body from?


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## SNS1938 (Jan 13, 2014)

I went with local VW Dealer. It was MSRP$1080, but I had a 25% off coupon from their website. With tax, it was $890.

http://www.deutscheautoparts.com had it for $815 + $50 shipping, however I thought buying from the dealer for $25 more would be better incase I need to swap it ... although I see that the dealer charges a 20% restocking fee.

There is also a $150 core charge from my dealer (so it was $890 + $150 core charge).

There are many thoughts about going for reconditioned vs OEM. As there is a core charge, it is possible the valve body I have is VW reconditioned (well, I hope it is VW done and not a $495 one from eBay). I decided I'd rather do VW than a reconditioned one which the level of reconditioning is unknown. The original lasted 130,000 miles, and if the new one does half that, then I'm happy (As the car does a lot less miles now, and 65,000 miles could last me five or even ten years).

Thanks.


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## samarra85k5 (Nov 16, 2013)

dapqam said:


> I assume you are starting with a cold engine at an ambient temperature of around 72-75F? If so that is very helpful information. Please clarify. Usually I like to warm up the car to normal operating temperature before changing fluids. What would be the engine run time assuming a warmed up engine and the 72-75F ambient temperature? (also assuming addition of 72-75F fluid)


The devil is in the details... I have always performed this service from a cold start (which is why I stated to allow the engine rpm to drop below 1000, in the DIY) and with the ambient temperature at least 90F or below. And just for clarity I will define a cold start as the first time the car is started in a 12 hour period.


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## samarra85k5 (Nov 16, 2013)

alwaysdutch said:


> How much fluid will typically be needed to refill it, given the TC and cooler has fluid also but not drained?? I just drained my trans and only 2 quarts came out. I wonder if I had not enough fluid put in last time as the trans was starting to slip after warming up in 3rd to 4th gear.....
> 
> 2 quarts drain is probably too low fluid........


Did you remove the transmission pan and filter? If you only remove the transmission drain plug about 2 quarts is the typical amount to drain. If you did do the full service and remove the transmission pan and filter, I would say, it is safe to think your transmission is low on fluid. I would fill in more fluid than had initially drained and drain any excess (hopefull ther is, if not you will need to add more fluid) during the fluid level check process defined in the DIY


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## SNS1938 (Jan 13, 2014)

Anyone found a cheaper source of crush washers? Seems they're 12mm ID, and the $9 each at the stealer seems a bit high ... McMaster-Carr or Doorman?


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## truwagen (Jun 14, 2007)

SNS1938 said:


> Anyone found a cheaper source of crush washers? Seems they're 12mm ID, and the $9 each at the stealer seems a bit high ... McMaster-Carr or Doorman?


http://www.ecstuning.com/ES263474/

Or elsewhere. Search for VW part number: 09D321181B.


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## SNS1938 (Jan 13, 2014)

truwagen said:


> http://www.ecstuning.com/ES263474/
> 
> Or elsewhere. Search for VW part number: 09D321181B.


Thanks, I'll be ordering when I do my next flush.

Transmission fluid for VW 09G ... I was in a state of panic this morning, as it can drive you mad looking at which fluids to use. VW sell expensive fluid, other users use fluids I can't get locally (and don't want to wait for an online order). My Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc says 'VW/Audi G-052-025-A2, G-052-025-A1'', which is not the right fluid as such. However, it then states ''Toyota/Lexus Type T, T-II, T-IV, WS'', which is what is stated on the Titan 4400.

To put my mind at rest, I found this table from Valvoline again.










So 'crisis' averted today. I'm just about to drop the old valve body and fit the new one, then go get my $150 back from VW.

Concise information about cars seems pretty hard to find. Way too many fluids, and so many overlap, but no standard way of them declaring what their fluids do. Would be nice if there were 6 different fluid grades, and all the oils would state which ones they meet, and the manufacturers state which ones they need. At the moment the manufacturers create a new required spec, without saying if it's the same as existing specifications ... The transmission service kit from ECS/Wolfsrung/Deutz etc is looking pretty attractive as a 'no thought required' option for next time.


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## SNS1938 (Jan 13, 2014)

*My valve body swap - 09G 2006 Jetta 2.5L*

*Not an instruction,* but some images and text for what I did. *I take absolutely no responsibility or liability for anyone using these as an instruction*. I felt on the limit, and often beyond, for how comfortable I was with doing this service. Many times I thought I'd possibly bitten off more than I could chew. If mistakes are made in reassembly, there is a chance that 1) you could wire the valve up wrong and have a 5th to 1st shift at speed ... bad, and 2) that you could damage the wiring harness which may come from way up in the gearbox and require a major overhaul to fix.

Again, THIS IS NOT AN INSTRUCTION and you should probably go to a transmission shop if you're not comfortable with the risk (my choice was ''have a go, maybe write off my car which is worth maybe $1000 with the faulty transmission, or buy a new car and have a $500/mth payment'' ... so the risk was worth it for me. My car is now probably worth $3k ... a good days work).

For reference, I've read that it should take a mechanic 4 hours for this work, so possibly buy the parts from VW and pay someone $400 to do the work ... My dealer wanted $2300 to do the work, and parts were about $1400 of that ... so they wanted $900 for the job, which was too rich for my blood.

Here's a summary of what I did *(again, NOT AN INSTRUCTION OR GUIDE)*

1) I downloaded something like this http://www.atra.com/gears/2010/2010-01/2010_1_4.pdf for background reading and maybe something like this http://vw.nate-online.com/techdocs/DSG.pdf.

2) I downloaded a VW or Audi valve body swap technical pdf. I had a few copies, but I don't have the links anymore.* I would not try this without the VW/Audi pdf*. I probably found it originally from a forum link, but just cannot find it right now. Sorry.

3) The valve body swap seemed very similar to a fluid/filter change with a little extra.

I removed the plastic panel under the engine which has all the T25 screws holding it in place

I drained the fluid out the drain plug










I unbolted the pan



















I removed the filter (3 bolts)










I photographed the valve body with wiring. I made up little labels and cable tied them to the wires & I drew a picture on a whiteboard showing the routing etc

I unplugged the wiring harness. I didn't break any wires/clips, so didn't have to do anything more with the wires.

I carefully folded back the four little tabs on the washer below the nut holding the little lever in place in the top left corner of the picture










I used some slip jaw pliers to hold the lever whilst undoing the nut, making sure not to apply any torque to the shaft which the nut attaches (it was a warning in the pdf)










I pulled off the metal lever, being very careful not to torque the shaft. This took me a few hours or trying, looking online, trying again ... i was very worried I'd damage it.



















I followed the instructions pdf to undo the 12 bolts holding the valve body on. Make sure to only undo the mounting bolts and not the others. I really needed the pdf to do this. Some bolts are different lengths, so I kept all 12 separate and labelled.

The valve body then dropped away, and a piston with one or two springs fell out from the transmission










Grabbed new valve body. I went with VW dealer, as it was $1080 - 25% with coupon from their website. So I could have saved $300 going Pacific Coast Transmissions on eBay, but I preferred to pay the extra and buy from a dealer 2 miles away, where they checked the VIN and took my core back for $150.










Pushed the piston and spring back into the transmission where it came from, then held the valve body up, making sure the wiring harnesses came from the right clearances around the valve body. Bolted the 12 bolts back in to torques from pdf. Reattached the lever and nut, engaging it in the valve on the body.

Then I just continued as if I was doing a filter change, replace gasket, refill etc.

This is what I did. No VAG-COM reset, but I did have the battery disconnected for 8 hours. I've driven 400 miles since, and all seems fine.


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## SNS1938 (Jan 13, 2014)

*09G transfuild switch on youtube ... with great soundtrack*






Well worth a watch before embarking on 09G works


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## MarsPlex (Jul 3, 2013)

I hate videos with music over them, i would rather just hear what ever sounds are going on, or the dude telling me everything.


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## truwagen (Jun 14, 2007)

SNS1938 said:


> Bolted the 12 bolts back in to torques from pdf. Reattached the lever and nut, engaging it in the valve on the body.


Hey man, thanks for the documentation. Were these bolts "wet" at all? When I did my fluid/filter change I just hand tightened the bolts because they were covered in fluid. Curious how it was in your situation. I imagine the torque on these bolts is much more important.


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## truwagen (Jun 14, 2007)

MarsPlex said:


> I hate videos with music over them, i would rather just hear what ever sounds are going on, or the dude telling me everything.


Not to mention the fill process in that video is ridiculous. Spend $15 and do it the right way. With the process in that video, the chances for contamination or improper fill are really increased.


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## MarsPlex (Jul 3, 2013)

I was changing my oil today and i noticed i DID have the fill plug!


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## SNS1938 (Jan 13, 2014)

The whole valve body was slowly dripping the whole time I had the pan off, and the bolts were wet. It was a slow drip, but very annoying when under it.

The torque seems to be to 1) not strip the threads in the transmission housing that the bolts attach to, and 2) to ensure its bolted down flat (like when bolting down a head). Now I don't think there is much load on the valve body though, as all it does is connect up different fluid circuits ... right?


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## Fantomasz (Aug 15, 2001)

Today I change transmission fluid in my 08 Rabbit.I drain 4 liters so I put in 4 liters.When I check fluid level 0.8 liter came out.So my fill is only 3.2 liters.
Is this normal? Transmission was overfilled from factory?


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## SNS1938 (Jan 13, 2014)

Fantomasz said:


> Today I change transmission fluid in my 08 Rabbit.I drain 4 liters so I put in 4 liters.When I check fluid level 0.8 liter came out.So my fill is only 3.2 liters.
> Is this normal? Transmission was overfilled from factory?


1) Did you run the car, change through the gears etc, to make sure the oil was all through the transmission where it should be?

2) Do you know for sure that the car still had it's factory fill, or could it have been overfilled by a shop prior to you buying your car?

3) How did you confirm the temperature to set the level, and are you sure the car was level?

That's all I've got.


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## Fantomasz (Aug 15, 2001)

I did everything corectly. Car is running fine when cold or hot.

Today I did little experiment.I heat up 1 liter of ATF to 90C because I want to see how much it will extend.
And to my suprise ATF did not extend even a bid.

Now the question is why we must chech fluid level at 40C.For what?


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## SNS1938 (Jan 13, 2014)

Fantomasz said:


> I did everything corectly. Car is running fine when cold or hot.
> 
> Today I did little experiment.I heat up 1 liter of ATF to 90C because I want to see how much it will extend.
> And to my suprise ATF did not extend even a bid.
> ...


The aluminum transmission case and everything in the gearbox will expand when begin heated though, so it's not just the fluid expanding (or not) that is the issue.


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## Fantomasz (Aug 15, 2001)

I never hear story like this before 
It may expand by tenth of a millimeter which is nothing when filling transmission.


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## Fantomasz (Aug 15, 2001)

What is the part numer for 09G drain plug and washer ?


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## Evil_Charles (Jun 16, 2009)

Is that 3.5L drain only from removing the stand pipe? I only wonder because if the filter is removed also there will be more fluid coming out. Which fluids are OK for this transmission? I called a dealer not far from me and the G 055 025 A2 fluid is around $18.00 for one quart. They said there is no substitute for that fluid. I even have doubts as to whether it is a full synthetic (group 4 PAO). I am considering Lubro Moly Top Tech ATF 1200. It is based on synthetic HC base oils (sounds like a group III to me). I would still use that fluid. Liqui Moly (Lubro Moly) makes some very good oils. Another thing I like is that they don't hide things from you unless it is some kind of trade secret but they will usually be honest about the base stocks in their products if you just want to know what you are buying. They don't push stuff as what it isn't like Castrol and Mobile 1 can here in the USA.

I know that there are other fluids that can be used but I am not sure which ones are OK. I am thinking either Amsoil ATF1 or Redline D4. I am aware that the 09G is not made by Volkswagen but used by Volvo, Mini and a few others at least. How many other manufacturers have dealers selling the same fluid but with a different label? Surely the VW did not make the G 055 025 A2 fluid?

Everyone tell me which fluids you have had luck with. I just want to know if you are using something other than the dealers fluid and you have gone a good distance with it. I plan to change it maybe every 30 thousand miles or even sooner if it is a fluid I am not sure I can trust. What is so special about G 055 025 A2 that the dealer tells me to use only that? Is it that they want to make me pay obscene amounts of money to do regular maintenance on my own car? It sure does seem like that without a dipstick to check the fluid. 

I am not sure if there is another thread that would be useful for me about alternative fluids but I just know there must be others like me who have the same questions


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## Fantomasz (Aug 15, 2001)

Fuchs Titan 4400 it is german made fluid for this transmission


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## Evil_Charles (Jun 16, 2009)

Fuchs Titan ATF 4400 is another one I would use. Anything would be cheaper than the dealer's fluid.


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## Evil_Charles (Jun 16, 2009)

I just bought some of Volkswagen's G 055 025 A2 fluid. The place I got it sells it for $18.36 and tax. That was Pittsburgh and I believe that tax rate is 7% there. I noticed that this fluid is red. I thought that was odd since I read somewhere that it was clear or brown unless I am mistaken. Was that fluid always red or is it just a minor tweak to that fluid? I really wouldn't care if it was a weird shade of green really just as long as it is the same stuff. I am used to red fluid anyhow since most cars I have had have a red fluid. I used to have a Dodge Neon and a Chrysler before that before I decided to go with Volkswagen. I know in many cars even the power steering fluid is red and is often the transmission fluid (it is cheaper than those little bottles that I typically see it it). I am not planning an immediate fluid change. Right now I am just buying everything I need a little bit at a time so that it won't be so expensive. I bought 4 quarts of fluid so far and that is enough for the first change for the many who prefer to change it twice to get rid if most of the old stuff and gunk. I would buy the Fuchs (when you say it right it sounds like "fooks") but I don't know anywhere close that sells it and I do not want to pay for shipping. I only bought it in Pittsburgh because it is easy for me to get to and not really out of my way and I was passing the dealer who sold it. It looks like the expiration date is in 2019 and I find that odd since I read about the shelf life being 3 years but that would be 5 years instead. I know the best thing to do is not keep it sitting around.


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## j0seph (Jul 19, 2011)

MarsPlex said:


> I have an ELM Bluetooth OBDII scanner what works with the torque app, its reads the trans fluid temperature in real time.


Hey MarsPlex, I was wondering which ELM scanner you have? I am about to change my transmission fluid for the first time, and I want to use an accurate, affordable method, except I'm not sure what would work with my 2005 MkV Jetta. Do you like your device or would you recommend any other? Also, do I need anything else besides the OBD-II scanner and a Bluetooth phone? Thank you.


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## IgorW210 (Jan 8, 2013)

I changed ATF a week ago. 


















Used ASSENMACHER ATF1033-5VW VW Transmission Fluid Filler. 


























VAG doesn't provide ATF temperature range. It shows picture with +40C fluid. That's it. I assume, it means - Check ATF level when fluid has been wormed up.
I used VCDS for temperature control. Checked level when ATF temperature was stable +56C.


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## dapqam (Oct 15, 2012)

This is a great DIY for those of us that trust that the fluid level in the transmission is at the proper level, based on the transmission working well. I drained 3.2 liters and added 3.25 liters. I followed this video and got the job done for $85. Thank you. Will do this about every 30k-40K miles. I may skip the pan drop and fluid replace next time since the filter was nowhere near plugged, although it did have a bit of metal particles. I'm suspecting that the metal filings were probably from the initial few miles of operation. I doubt that the transmission is continuing to produce metal filings now. I actually did this first transmission fluid change at 70K (bought the car at 45K 2 years ago). I will probably do it again at 100K. I may consider buying the WIFI ELM327 and an app for my iPhone to measure the temp of the fluid so as to verify the correctness of the fluid level. My daughter has driven the car and she says it shifts smoother.


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## Hobiecatman (Mar 24, 2015)

*2012 jetta SE no tool fluid change*

Just bought 2012 jetta with 76k and faulty transmission for next to nothin for my daughter.

Before i trib down the tranny i wanted to check filter and sump pan. Had no special tools, used my quart bottle pump from O'reilly's $9 and it worked perfectly.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6zzi3aVb-CY

Video is just to show you the tool, this thread is perfect for the instructions to change oil and filter.

Jetta 76000 miles no previous fluid change, bad auto shifting but smooth manual shifting. Oil change cured it.

Hope it helps.


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## jahmes143 (Jun 10, 2015)

Just did a tranny flush using the Blauparts kit. It has everything needed..hose, fill adapter, new crush washer, etc. Car had 68k. Old fluid was very dark but not black. Old filter had small metal pieces on the screen. Magnets were lightly coated with microscopic metal shavings that resembled sludge. To keep things level but still give myself enough space to get to the drain plug, I put all 4 wheels on 3 wood 2x4s stacked on top of each other.


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## sinjin69 (Feb 1, 2015)

hi guys
someone could maybe help me or explain 
in my audi a3 2006 when i change the transmission fluid 
also have 09g type the temp stabalize at 80c and fluid stop flowing and drips at this temp
am i doing something wrong??
or maybe that cuz country worm climate?
p.s also flows great amount of fluid until it start drips
i put like 5 liter 
br


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## sinjin69 (Feb 1, 2015)

up
someone can advise pliz?


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## nbpt100 (Nov 24, 2015)

*Great thread*

Lots of real personal experience in this thread.

I like the idea of using a Non contact IR thermometer to read the temperature but keep in mind it is reading the outside pan temperature. It is an indirect measurement. Not the actual ATF temperature. Ambient temperature would certainly be a factor. I would assume the actual ATF temp something warmer than the IR thermometer would provide.

Another option may be using a thermo couple dropped down the fill tube or a meat thermometer (assuming it is a straight enough path).

My understanding is that Valvoline Max life claims to meet many of these Auto Manufacturers Specs but in order for them to be certified by the MFG they would have to go through a battery of expensive testing and legal processes to get the MFG to formally certify them as meeting thier spec. They have decided to forgo this and make the claims they do with out any endorsements or certifications from the various auto manufacturers or 3rd parties.

I have never heard of anyone complaining who has used MAX life products in Honda, Accura's Volvos's, VW etc.. If you are out of warrantee it is probably a safe bet. If in warrantee you would risk being disqualified should you have a problem.

Interesting thread!


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## markg612 (Jan 29, 2016)

*Sonnax Valve Body replacement*

Just finished a valve body exchange, I used a Sonnax unit. (VBX) Transmission was exhibiting horrid flair bump between most of the lower gears and a flair neutral from 3-4.

No metal in the pan or on the magnets.

Sonnax bench flows and sets solenoid pressures to spec.

All went well on the install thanks to this thread and the many excellent contributors, mis-connection of wiring seems somewhat difficult if one relies on the natural bend the wiring takes after years in place. The biggest concern was ensuring proper routing of the 4 leads out from behind the valve body. The lead with the white connector can go either side of the corner/tower on the back side of the valve body, keeping it forward insures proper routing, while it still connects across the face, its mildly taunt if compared to its proper route.

Also interesting, with the valve body out of the transmission, fluid drain is substantially more than just a filter change, I serviced 5.5 liters back in during reassembly. (bottom filled)

My thanks to the infinite amount of tech data Sonnax (VBX) provides online. Initial test drive was excellent EXCEPT for the 3-4 flair/neutral issue. Shifting in TipTronic confirmed the problem as mechanical vs TCM related, exhibiting a flared or soft 3-4 upshift. Using their online guild, I adjusted (3MM allen) the K2 clutch control valve out 2.25 turns, panned it up and re-service the transmission and total perfection in shifting. The vehicle has 114K on it--I either have some clutch wear or K2 bonded piston is leaking some internally. The good news is I think I could have gotten by at 1.5-2 turns, the shift is tighter than 1-2-3, and only the fussiest bugger like me could tell. The TCM will adapt it out anyway.


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## bmurray716 (Mar 11, 2010)

I just did this the other day and have a few things I'd like to communicate to whoever does this.

I did not have the fill port and bought the tool for the bottom fill through the drain hole.

I did use vag to measure the atf temp. Took me a bit to find the darn data but it was easier than using IR of which I don't have anyway.

I used two sets of ramps to get my car up. I have my car on lowering springs (~1 1/2 inches). Drove up on to the front ramps, then jacked each tire up by placing jack under control arm then slid in ramp. Viola

I'd suggest filling at least 1/4 to 1/2 qt more than removed to ensure you get a full fill at end of process. Obviously the excess will drain out but if you remove the fill hose after temp has gotten to 40 C (or down to), and little to nothing drains out, that means you are less than full, and will have to add more and go through the process again. (ask me how I know)


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## alvine90 (Mar 17, 2013)

truwagen said:


> Both of my Jetta 09Gs had ~3.5L drain.
> 
> *BTW everyone, see here for another couple good DIYs including my own on page 2 showing a custom fill tool:* http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5284006-09G-6-speed-tiptronic-ATF-and-filter-change-DIY




If anyone wants to make their own tool, I ended up purchasing this from jegs but decided to let a shop perform the service. I'm selling a brand new M10x1 to 5/16 barb fuel pump fitting. PM me if interested.


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## btrux0611 (Aug 3, 2012)

Great thread guys. Question. 
Can we safety use Valvoline Max life full synthetic? It's says on the back good for Toyota's Volvo and Vw 052-025-A12. 055 I've read is ideal for 09g 6 speeds in 06+ Passat etc. 
And I've used for example Castrol Import synthetic successfully in Volvos. 

My Passat has double pump feeling shifts from 2-3 Gear shifts quite often at 93k miles. Hoping not to have to buy new solenoids etc.
Also to note. I used the Bluetooth torque app. Nice day out and after one minute temperature already up to 50 degrees.


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## btrux0611 (Aug 3, 2012)

Answered my own question quickly. The blue import synthetic pictured below is what you want. Numbers matching. Not the red multi vehicle.


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## Chris MK6 Jetta Rodriguez (Aug 2, 2013)

*Torque Spec*

Hey man quick question about your DIY here (which by the way is put into great detail nicely done!) 

But just wanted to know is there a torque spec to the any of the bolts/plugs you take off to perform the service ? Thanks In Advance


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## Fogcat (Apr 29, 2015)

The Valvoline Max Life is spec'd for the tranny. If your tranmission is not in that particular spec, then NO it is not proper. Clear cut. The specifications are listed. I too was confused at first since the transmission specifications are not standard like the oils are. "Bob is the Oil Guy" forum eventually cleared it up for me. Our transmission is the same as that used on Volvos, Honda, Toyota, etc... (make sure we are speaking apples to apples so to speak, not all transmission are included) so the same fluids would apply. IF the proper specification is cited, then you are OK. In this case I mean G0555025A.


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## rcprato (Sep 14, 2007)

*Home Made Fill Tool*

My wife decided it was time to change fluid and filter (plus pan) for me by hitting a curb recently, here is my fill tool that I made with some help from prototype shop where I work










The valve was $3.99 and barb 3/8" fitting was $1.99 at Harbor Freight and have a gallon jug with pump top that I will pump my fluid from to fill tranny.

Also found this really good video done by Blauparts 
https://video.search.yahoo.com/sear...5b3f4c50a2e7db79c677abdfe52716e1&action=click

Worked Great !


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## Phantom96 (Jul 6, 2016)

*Transmission fluid capacity*

Help, please! Drained the fluid from my 2009 Jetta S 2.5L (automatic transmission) by removing both the drain plug and the fill stand pipe. I was only able to get 1.75L fluid out. Looks like there was too little fluid there to begin with?

I'm ready to fill fresh transmission fluid. When I screw in the fill stand pipe, does it go in all the way until it is seated? It won't go in all the way through and fall off inside the pan, will it?

I am planning to put in 3.5L of fresh fluid and any excess should drain out of the fill stand pipe. So I need be sure that the fill stand pipe is installed correctly.


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## rcprato (Sep 14, 2007)

You really should consider dropping pan and putting new filter in and cleaning the magnets.

Yes, screw fill tube back in being careful not to go to far, it should be about 10mm or 5/16" up and with mine it got tight at that point.

I probably got about another 1/3 Liter or more out of bottom of pan when removed.

My tranny fluid temp was already at 36C when I started car, not a lot of time to add more fluid, run through gears before tranny fluid was at 45C the high end of the fluid level temp range.


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## Wolfsburg007 (Apr 21, 2011)

Ok so i gotta ask. Has anyone used liqui moly atf 1200? It came with my pan and filter and new gasket. My pan was dented yrs ago. Wanna change everything I see screams oem only fluid. Anyone on something different? I'm not tuned. It's a daily. 153,000 on it now. Valve body was done at 80,000. 

Sent from my 0x1 Note 4...... I love tep


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## Phantom96 (Jul 6, 2016)

*Transmission fluid capacity*

Thanks for replying so quickly. Yes, I'll go with your advice and drop/clean the pan. I just bought the car, so I don't know the service history; but since the fluid looked red and clear, I thought I could get away without dropping the pan. Also, reading the other posts, it looks like 1.75 L out of the pan is too little. So, might as well do the job right and drop the pan, change the filter, etc.


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## rcprato (Sep 14, 2007)

It does not have to be OEM (VW) but it needs to be the correct spec for your transmission. Our 09G takes same fluid as some Toyotas and other cars with the same Aisin style transmission. What spec is the Liguid Moly? G 055 025 A2 Is VW spec 
Aisin Warner Automatic Gearbox
BMW 83 22 7 542 290
BMW 83 22 0 402 413
GM 9986195
Land Rover LR002748
Toyota JWS 3309 08886-81016


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## rcprato (Sep 14, 2007)

LIQUI MOLY Top Tec 1200 is suited for a multitude of car models. It is officially approved by General Motors (Dexron IIIH, also suited for Dexron VI), Ford (Mercon V), Toyota (Type T-II / T-IV), Allison (C4, TES 295), Nissan (Matic Fluid, D, J, K), Kia, Mitsubishi and Hyundai (all SP II / SP III), Mazda (ATF M III / ATF M V) and Honda (ATF Z1 (without CVT´s)). Furthermore, it is also suited for JWS 3309 (Aisin Warner), Chrysler (ATF +3, +4), Mercedes (MB 236.1, 236.2, 236.5, 236.6, 236.7, 236.9, 236.10, 236.11), BMW (LT 71141, LA 2634, 7045 E, 8072-B), Volkswagen (VW G 052 162, VW G 055 025), Volvo (97340 / 97341) and Subaru (ATF). It is also suited for a number of commercial vehicles: Daimler (NAG-1), MAN (339 type Z1, Z2 and 339 type V1, V2), ZF (TE-ML 02F, 03D, 04D, 05L, 09, 11A, 11B, 14A, 14B, 16L, 17C), and Voith H 55 6336.xx).


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## Wolfsburg007 (Apr 21, 2011)

rcprato said:


> It does not have to be OEM (VW) but it needs to be the correct spec for your transmission. Our 09G takes same fluid as some Toyotas and other cars with the same Aisin style transmission. What spec is the Liguid Moly? G 055 025 A2 Is VW spec
> Aisin Warner Automatic Gearbox
> BMW 83 22 7 542 290
> BMW 83 22 0 402 413
> ...


It's on the list. And it meets approval. But I've had like 3 people tell me I sealed the death of my tranny if i use anything but oem. I use liqui moly in my engine been fine. Just these people put a little nervousness to me about for the tranny. I already got 6 liters new pan and filter. Jus wanted a sense from a few more people. 

Sent from my 0x1 Note 4...... I love tep


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## Wolfsburg007 (Apr 21, 2011)

rcprato said:


> LIQUI MOLY Top Tec 1200 is suited for a multitude of car models. It is officially approved by General Motors (Dexron IIIH, also suited for Dexron VI), Ford (Mercon V), Toyota (Type T-II / T-IV), Allison (C4, TES 295), Nissan (Matic Fluid, D, J, K), Kia, Mitsubishi and Hyundai (all SP II / SP III), Mazda (ATF M III / ATF M V) and Honda (ATF Z1 (without CVT´s)). Furthermore, it is also suited for JWS 3309 (Aisin Warner), Chrysler (ATF +3, +4), Mercedes (MB 236.1, 236.2, 236.5, 236.6, 236.7, 236.9, 236.10, 236.11), BMW (LT 71141, LA 2634, 7045 E, 8072-B), Volkswagen (VW G 052 162, VW G 055 025), Volvo (97340 / 97341) and Subaru (ATF). It is also suited for a number of commercial vehicles: Daimler (NAG-1), MAN (339 type Z1, Z2 and 339 type V1, V2), ZF (TE-ML 02F, 03D, 04D, 05L, 09, 11A, 11B, 14A, 14B, 16L, 17C), and Voith H 55 6336.xx).


Ya what I thought. Says it is OK. Just people are weird. But there shop owners and die hard dubbers swearing its bad. 

Sent from my 0x1 Note 4...... I love tep


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## EA 337 (Jun 16, 2002)

Anybody know the part number for the fill tube plug with the red cap shown by the OP?


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## rcprato (Sep 14, 2007)

I will look in my parts drawer at home, may have one left over from my daughters MKIV Jetta that I did not use.

They can be reused, The red ring that wraps around the grey cap separates. There is a tab that you push in and than just pull apart. Easier said than done. Spin it until you see the tab. Then use small flat screwdriver. Be patient.

Looks like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-TT-VW-...M-321-435-B-/172004282255?hash=item280c410f8f

I think P/N is 01M321435B

http://www.keffervwparts.com/productSearch.aspx?searchTerm=01M321435B


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## EA 337 (Jun 16, 2002)

rcprato said:


> I will look in my parts drawer at home, may have one left over from my daughters MKIV Jetta that I did not use.
> 
> They can be reused, The red ring that wraps around the grey cap separates. There is a tab that you push in and than just pull apart. Easier said than done. Spin it until you see the tab. Then use small flat screwdriver. Be patient.
> 
> ...



Thx!
That is for just the red locking cap. Do you know the part number for the plug as well?


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## rcprato (Sep 14, 2007)

The plug is reusable but part is below

http://www.keffervwparts.com/productSearch.aspx?searchTerm=01M321432A

Do you know for certain you can fill your tranny this way?


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## EA 337 (Jun 16, 2002)

rcprato said:


> The plug is reusable but part is below
> 
> http://www.keffervwparts.com/productSearch.aspx?searchTerm=01M321432A
> 
> Do you know for certain you can fill your tranny this way?



Thx again!
I think that is the correct part. Mine was brittle and the securing tabs broke apart so I want to replace it.
Yes, I have already used this port to fill my 09G transmission. It works well and is even labeled "fill port" in the VW technical drawings. However the drain port standpipe still must be used to set the proper fluid level at temperature.


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## Pyotr (Nov 15, 2014)

For what its worth, on some 09G transmissions (this is a 2013 trans) You can use this plug as a filler hole. Worked perfectly for me. Same location as the earlier models fill port, but a plug instead of a filll port.
I used a harbor freight fluid transmfer pump, and it made a nice seal in the hole, and made it a super easy job to fill.

Beware though its a T60 or so plug. 8mm hex works too.


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## ThreeDubber (Oct 14, 2013)

*09G Fluids*



rcprato said:


> It does not have to be OEM (VW) but it needs to be the correct spec for your transmission. Our 09G takes same fluid as some Toyotas and other cars with the same Aisin style transmission. What spec is the Liguid Moly? G 055 025 A2 Is VW spec


Since I didn't find what I was looking for when I searched this site, here is a list of fluids whose manufacturer's explicitly state are recommended when "G 055 025 A2" is required or are listed as being "equivalent".

Aisin ATF, Automatic Transmission Fluid; Type-IV ($6.75 a quart, BTW)
Valvoline MaxLife ATF
Febi ATF, Automatic Transmission Fluid;
Royal Purple Max ATF
Amsoil Signature Series Multi-Vehicle Synthetic ATF
Mobil ATF 3309
Fuchs Titan ATF 4400
Ravenol Semisynth T-IV (holding the empty bottle in my hand).
LIQUI MOLY Top Tec 1200

I'm sure there are others but that was enough for me. Note that I posted this information to a separate thread but thought it might be useful here as well. Obviously I have not tried them all and I'm not recommending any of them. However, I seriously doubt any of them are going to harm your transmission and will likely work just fine.


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## Tdi13golf (May 31, 2014)

Currently NAPA has a 20% off sale when you buy a 2.99$ wash bucket. I got Royal Purple MAX ATF for 12$ a quart and picked up engine oil, also 20% off.


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## mdr (Dec 30, 2005)

*Thanks for the pointers*

There's a question at the bottom. I just wanted to recap my version of the 09G oil and filter change. NOT HOW **YOU** SHOULD DO IT! Just how I did it.

Just did the change today. No symptoms, but it's way over due from when I figured I'd change it in 2008, ~100kmiles. That was when it was still 'unlimited'. Yeah... Later when the dealer told me it was now 40k (car had >80k), oh well! For just the fluid change I think they quoted US$200-300. For just the fluid drop and refill. WT??

Used the kit from Deutsche Autoparts for the filter/screen & pan gasket. Also got the crush washer from them.

Got the Valvoline Max-Life locally from Advance for much less than the dealer or the independent shop. Found it on this thread. 

Used an OTC fill adapter tool (6604 for ~US$18) and a Plews bottle pump (55-001 for ~US$8) to refill. The adapter was better than I expected. The bottle pump was a pain, but effective. Got 'em off Amazon.

I drove the front wheel up on ramps and used two jacks to lift the rear. It sounds bad, but this was on a down slope so just had to raise the rear a couple inches to get the pan level. One of the jacks has a locking pin, so it's essentially also a jack stand. ******* win! Didn't even spill my Dr Pepper.  

Put in about 4 liters and got about 750 ml out, so total fill was about 3.25L. The OBDII dongle reported a steady 43C while idling in Park. Putting it in gear started increasing the fluid temp pretty quickly. 

Surprises: Fluid was dark, but didn't smell burnt. Wasn't much crud in the pan, and very little on the magnets or in the screen! I'll wind up changin fluid again in 5k at 130k. Should be faster without removing the pan, and having a plan to get it done.

Question: What's the normal operating temperature on this thing? I know the fill temp is 40C +/- 5C, but while driving? While doing the 'round the block test, I saw the fluid temp get up to nearly 90C!? That seems rather high. The temperature did start coming down when just idling. Looking at the literature online, it looks like the max temp before the tranny starts 'taking measures' is about 130C <?>. (locking up the torque convertor faster, etc) I'll try a longer drive tomorrow and see what it does.

EDIT: Took it out for a 'romp' yesterday afternoon. Air temperature was about 80F (27C). Accelerated hard in D a couple times, drove 65MPH (figure it out ) for several miles, the temperature reported via OBDII never peaked about 88C. If the cooler thermostat opens at 90C, that may be about right. While cruising it cooled to the mid 80C's. I'll watch it over the next week.


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## PowerslavePA (Dec 9, 2014)

Images no longer work, Photobucket, of course...


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## robertTT225 (Apr 9, 2007)

*This is a very helpful tread can you guys please update the pictures?*

:beer:


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## DMN_RITE (Dec 30, 2017)

I have been looking for DIY guide for ATF service! This post is AWESOME! Thanks a lot!! :thumbup:


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## carboncow (Mar 11, 2005)

Another great thread ruined by photobucket...is this a setting on the forum admin side of things or photo bucket bandwidth issues? All that work by the poster ruined!


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## Ichabod0525 (Feb 11, 2018)

carboncow said:


> Another great thread ruined by photobucket...is this a setting on the forum admin side of things or photo bucket bandwidth issues? All that work by the poster ruined!


Took some time to figure out the photo issue. Found that adding an extension called PhotoBucket Hotlink fix works. Bam! all the photos are there. The link below shows how to do it in Chrome but I banged around and added the extension to Fire Fox and it works like a charm. Happy viewing! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5IKpfgteV6M


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## Erictiguan (May 29, 2018)

*What happens driving with less transmission fluid?*



samarra85k5 said:


> DIY Automatic transmission (09G) service/ fluid and filter change
> 
> Thanks to Hindsight at passatworld.com, I used some of his pictures. This is for instructional use, I do not assume any responsibility for damage to your vehicle or injury to your person. That said my car is at 150Kmi with never a problem with the transmission, this was my third time to do this service. For clarity this is for the 09G 6 speed Automatic triptronic transmission. Mine happens to be hooked up to a 2.5L in a 2006 Jetta.
> 
> ...


*I stopped injecting the fluid a little bit short because I suspect the overflow tube is not doing the right job. Maybe a quart short. I drained about 4.5 quart and filled about 4 quart. And test drive out. Then I am hearing some kind of "small electronic machine shutting down" sound immediately before signal full stop. Is this the symptom with low fluid level? *


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## st4r10n (Apr 28, 2019)

*measuring fluid temperature-infrared vs scanner*

measured 118 degrees fahrenheit at the pan with infrared, 148 degrees fahrenheit with scan tool.


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## Ichabod0525 (Feb 11, 2018)

Some cheaper Infrared thermometers do not have an adjustment for *Emissivity* or EMS. Either that or an incorrect EMS setting can throw your reading off if you are not aware of it. Try setting emissivity to something around .92 and see if it is more accurate.


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## BellaDavisq (Jul 8, 2019)

This is actually what I was searching for. Moved over 93k encountering a little slip. Trusting that a pleasant dish, magnet, channel, and liquid administration makes a difference. Much obliged a ton for investing the additional exertion and recording + posting this!


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## RushabJain (Jan 16, 2020)

*DIY filter and fluid change 6 speed auto*

Great Information was very us for me.


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## Ben7 (Dec 3, 2020)

It's interesting you show your transmission filter for the 09G as shown but some other 09G transmission filters are listed as here at 14:06 



which is the same as here also 


Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance


So I guess you have to go into the dealership give them the VIN to see which one one's vehicle use?


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## Ben7 (Dec 3, 2020)

From Samarra85k5 very first post on page 1, The Grey plastic L shape part he has going into the fill hole of the transmission pan. Picture #1, 9, 10, 11, 17
What is it actually called? And does someone have a link to purchase one? And what size is it? I like this way because you don't need a multi-use pump or garden sprayer to put in the new transmission fluid.


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## Ben7 (Dec 3, 2020)

Can someone answer the question above?


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## vwr32nut (Feb 22, 2021)

Pyotr said:


> For what its worth, on some 09G transmissions (this is a 2013 trans) You can use this plug as a filler hole. Worked perfectly for me. Same location as the earlier models fill port, but a plug instead of a filll port.
> I used a harbor freight fluid transmfer pump, and it made a nice seal in the hole, and made it a super easy job to fill.
> 
> Beware though its a T60 or so plug. 8mm hex works too.


Can someone tell me the thread size of this plug? Thank you in advance.


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## twan719 (Jan 31, 2015)

Anyone recommend a Indy shop in Long Island, NY? Dealership wants to charge $800 for the transmission fluid change


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## Ben7 (Dec 3, 2020)

samarra85k5 said:


> DIY Automatic transmission (09G) service/ fluid and filter change
> 
> 3. Back to the drain plug now, insert your wrench and remove the drain plug. Above the drain plug there is a stand pipe, the picture below depicts the stand-pipe and old drain plug in orientation of assembly, on the left side; the old fill plug and snap ring are to the right.
> 
> ...


VW Dealership in Ricardson, Texas was telling me that standpipe cost $36 dollars? Does that sound like the average price at a VW Dealership? Sounds outrageous for that little pipe.


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## vwr32nut (Feb 22, 2021)

Ben7 said:


> The Grey plastic L shape part he has going into the fill hole of the transmission pan.
> What is it actually called?


Fill port(?). Not sure, but this is the part number: 09G321407



> And does someone have a link to purchase one? And what size is it?


 With the part number you should be able to find it wherever you prefer, as for the price, it seems it ranges from low/mid $30's and up. But, if you want to go that route, make sure you can install it first. I have a 07 jetta and it doesn't even have the screw/bolt for a plug that some others seem to have like in post #78 by Pyotr.


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## Lagnaria (Apr 21, 2016)

First of all thanks to the OP and everybody in this thread, managed to change the fluid on my 09 Rabbit at 140k km. I had no shift problems at all, sometimes the 2nd to 1st gear on hard stop would make a small hiccup, but that's it.

Here's my story : 

Ordered on ECS Tuning OEM filter, gasket, drain bolt and the pan bolts. Went with the Idemitsu ATF, type TLS which is a T-IV compatible fluid. Put all the fluid in the refrigerator before the job, so the ATF was cold and allowed me more time to control the fluid.
Dropped the pan (fun fact, my drain bolt on the car looked like a Torx bolt, the new was an Allen?), fluid has never been changed but car was always driven carefully, and mostly in cold weather (Canada) FWIW.
Fluid still had a small reddish tint to it, no burnt smell and no big metal chunks. Magnets were covered in clutch material, but would say that it looked reasonable.
Recovered about 3.5L of ATF.
Pumped in 5L of Idemitsu ATF I've ordered in it, ran the car and went 20 secondes in each gear. 
Checked with VCDS and opened up the drain bolt on 30°C, knowing I had way too much in it.
At about 43°C, drainage almost stopped so I've put the new drain bolt back in.
Made no adaptation at all, car shift as smooth as before, can't say I've seen any improvement. But, in the 300km I've driven it the past month, no hiccup on hard stop occurred from 2nd to 1st gear. This might be the improvement I've seen.

Thanks again for this DIY!


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## murphysf (Jun 15, 2009)

Hi

I just got a 2006 Jetta 2.5 with around 119k miles. I believe it is a 6 speed transmission.

I want to change the transmission filter.

Rock has the following options:
VAIICO
ATP
REIN
ACDELCO
PIONEER
BECK/ARNLEY
WIX


Any preferences?

Also Rock sells the Aisin T-IV fluid which I guess is fine since it is a Aisin transmission. How many quarts should I buy? I've seen some people mention 4, 5 and 6.

Thanks!!


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## hsproyaya (Jan 4, 2012)

For the fluid and filter service it says 5-6liters(5.2-6.3 quarts) 

I prefer the VW filter as it stays in the car the longest. 

I would always suggest staying away from the cheapest parts with this car. 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk


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