# AirRide and Performance.



## MKippen (Nov 6, 2000)

*"Airride doesn't handle Good!"*
*"Airride rides like crap!"*
*"Airride is too soft!"*
*"Airride is unreliable!"*








Thes are all comments that any air loving person has had said to them, or has heard said.
I want to bring this thread up, to see what people think?
I believe that with the right components, installed right, you can have a reliable, 
well perfoming setup that can compete on a circuit, and still be comfortable and practical in a daily setup.
















My experience with air, and the cars i have been in with air has been completely positive.
As we have seen with Airride Technologies, and Praxis Advanced Suspension, it is possible to build a car with airride, 
*and compete on a competition level.*
























So why all the negativity? Why all the hating on Air? Its practical, Its comfortable, and it has the ability to perform well! 
If anything, i could see the price being the only issue that would cause somone to consider airride to be a bad decision. 
And this is purely on the basis of its function, and not the fact that it gives you an unmatched stance. 
*What is your experience with air? *
I understand that "air shocks" and cheap components is not the way to a performing airride setup;
but that does NOT mean that its not possible.








My experience on my A8, A+, it was comfortable, reliable, practical, and i never had handling issues that made "airride" a bad decision.
But i have to mention, my car was not a performance car, by any means!


_Modified by theflygtiguy at 6:14 PM 12-19-2007_


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## diive4sho (Feb 7, 2004)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. (theflygtiguy)*

Proof that bagged cars can handle
http://youtube.com/watch?v=Fn8XKR4Q9CU


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## Capt. Obvious (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. (diive4sho)*

I agree with Mike on this one, my car is bagged and handles almost as well as it did with my Tein SS coilovers on it. With a little tweaking, I could easily match or surpass the handling abilities of my car with coils.


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## MKippen (Nov 6, 2000)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. (diive4sho)*


_Quote, originally posted by *diive4sho* »_Proof that bagged cars can handle
http://youtube.com/watch?v=Fn8XKR4Q9CU

Not to mention that in this video, they look like they are using standard struts.
Coupled with something like a Koni Yellow Adjustable dampening, i'm sure this would be even better.


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## dedgsus (Apr 3, 2005)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. (theflygtiguy)*

I think the issue comes when you get down to the details of dealing with simulating spring rates with bags. The benefit of coilovers is that you can pick a spring rate keep and keep it at every height, where as with air ride adjusting the spring rate is linked to the ride height until the maximum ride height is reached, and then you can only increase the spring rate. Also, because each coil in a spring can be wound differently, you can modify how the spring rate as the spring is compressed for progressive rates.
Optimally, I think for a good handling air ride setup, you need to pick the right bags and mount them so that at the track/performance ride height you want (with optimum suspension geometry/low center of gravity) and you also have the right pressure in the bags to achieve the spring rate you want. If I were doing it (and I sure would like to







) because I don't have any experience, I would probably have choose to have the bags fully inflated at track height and hope that the optimum spring rate can be achieved by adding additional pressure. This works out with my goals of raising my car for tracking anyway, though I still haven't though through how to deal with camber issues, (ie I want more aggressive camber when I raise the car)
Both can use the same dampeners, so you could adjust compression/rebound with however good a shock you purchase. 
I haven't done enough research on the matter to say definitively, but I just don't see a way air-ride can match the fine tuning of spring compression rates to be truly competitive. I'm sure it possible to put together a well thought out great handling air-ride suspension, probably better than some coilovers, but it seems like that it still has some limitations when you really are looking at building the best handling suspension.


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## Dubdout (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. (diive4sho)*


_Quote, originally posted by *diive4sho* »_Proof that bagged cars can handle
http://youtube.com/watch?v=Fn8XKR4Q9CU

OMG!!!!!














, That is BADDD ASSSS!!!


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## diive4sho (Feb 7, 2004)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. (dedgsus)*

Actually you would be suprised..
I know for a fact that the Universal Air Suspension's Aero sport bags when used with a 1/2" air line have a average spring rate of 300lb/in...the smaller the airline the stiffer the rate. The bags are also progressive in the fact that the "middle" air pressure setting will be the most comfortable ride and the softest spring rate and the MAX psi of 200psi will give you a stiffer rate...a lot stiffer actually......Also in the lowest setting you basically have no support by the bag so the spring rate is very stiff...although I don't think you'd want to track at this height. Vehicle weight also has a lot to do with the feel and handling of airsuspension kits....the same air suspension on my Audi allroad (4,212 Lbs) would feel much stiffer on a mk2 or some other lighter vehicle...
Another thing most people don't think about is the spring rate in relation to the size of the airline leading to the bags....yes it makes a difference....it's a lot like brakes....people switch their brake lines to stainless steel braided lines to reduce the flex of the line and it increases their brake response....well I'm not saying go full braided lines for better performance but I am saying that air suspension lines have flex in them as well...so this has to be considered when determining spring rate. Also the more air in the lines the more space for the air in the bags to divert to when the bag is being compressed by the shifting weight of the vehicle...so smaller lines will give you a higher springrate because there will be less back flow into the lines. And last but not least, also most obvious, a FB system won't handle as well as a FBSS system.....with a FB system there is a T in the line coming off of the valve that splits to both bags and this allows the one valve to controll both bags (front or back)....Imagine going hard into a right turn and most of the air in the left bag goes through the line through the tee and into the right bag.....so not only do you have flex of the lines but you have flex of the joined air bag and this will greatly increase body roll and decrease spring rate......I think it goes without saying that some factors of air suspension systems are very complex....spring rates is one of the most complex in my opinion.











_Modified by diive4sho at 5:26 AM 12-21-2007_


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## Starion88esir (Jan 3, 2005)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. (diive4sho)*

You can easily install check valves at each corner (which should be done in both FB and FBSS set ups anyway) to prevent and unwanted leak down.


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## Florida Flow (Nov 16, 2004)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. (Starion88esir)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Starion88esir* »_You can easily install check valves at each corner (which should be done in both FB and FBSS set ups anyway) to prevent and unwanted leak down.

If you do this how do you deflate the bag?


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## MKippen (Nov 6, 2000)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. (diive4sho)*


_Quote, originally posted by *diive4sho* »_
Another thing most people don't think about is the spring rate in relation to the size of the airline leading to the bags....yes it makes a difference....it's a lot like brakes....people switch their brake lines to stainless steel braided lines to reduce the flex of the line and it increases their brake response....well I'm not saying go full braided lines for better performance but I am saying that air suspension lines have flex in them as well...so this has to be considered when determining spring rate. 

I was thinking about this too, since you would be losing pressure from your bag into your air line due to flex in the line
I'm sure that even a few psi of difference in the bag would make a big change in handling.
Talking to some friends, and doing some research i have been throwing around the idea of doing hard lines on my car. 
Doing 1/4 inch hard lines with AN fittings, and 1/4 inch valves. 
















No different than doing brake lines really.
It would make all the cleaner of an install, and Zero Flex.


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## MKippen (Nov 6, 2000)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. (Florida Flow)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Florida Flow* »_
If you do this how do you deflate the bag?

you could probably have these check vavles installed on a seperate circuit, and if you know your going to be throwing the car into the corners, simply throw the switch to close the check valves... when your done, throw the switch, and you are back to your standard valve setup.
i dont know how this would work though... you'd probably want to install these checks as close to the bag as possible.


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## Florida Flow (Nov 16, 2004)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. (theflygtiguy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *theflygtiguy* »_
you could probably have these check vavles installed on a seperate circuit, and if you know your going to be throwing the car into the corners, simply throw the switch to close the check valves... when your done, throw the switch, and you are back to your standard valve setup.
i dont know how this would work though... you'd probably want to install these checks as close to the bag as possible.

Ya thats what i was thinking. I really dont think that is nessarry just somthing else to go wrong/break.


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## Afazz (Feb 10, 2002)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. (Florida Flow)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Florida Flow* »_
If you do this how do you deflate the bag?

You would either need to move the dump valve very close to its respective 'bag or run two airlines from the valve manifold to each 'bag; a standard check valve will only flow in one direction.
You can run a FR setup without the "negative swaybar" effect if you use 2 check valves per corner and a handfull of extra T's. At $4-8 per fitting and $10 per check valve, this will almost always be more expensive than another valve. 
The most important reason why longer air lines make a system softer is that there is more air to compress. Brake fluid is basically uncompressible, so flex in the rubber hose is the issue. Air is a compressible gas, and "stiffness" of an airbag is a function of the air volume in the system. You can improve stiffness by mounting the valves closer to the 'bag or running smaller diameter air line. 
For example: say you have two air cylinders with the same bore and they're both fully extended at 100psi. One is 20" long and the other is 2" long, and you compress each one 1". It will take more force to compress the shorter piston because the volume is reduced by 50%, where the longer cylinder only decreases volume by 5%. If anyone wants me to elaborate I can post some actual numbers and equations later. 
As far as racing with airbags, air springs are far too unpredictable and inconsistent to be used in a competitive racing situation. Having air in the _tires _is enough of a hassle, imagine if your spring rates changed with temperature and humidity also!


_Modified by Afazz at 3:29 PM 12-21-2007_


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## Capt. Obvious (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. (Afazz)*

Another thing to keep in mind when thinking about line flex for airlines is how strong DOT air lines are. The average car with air ride generally maxes out around 100psi. DOT air lines are rated FAR higher than that and I've seen max PSI tests done on air lines and the line didn't even begin to flex and balloon until 700+psi.


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## Florida Flow (Nov 16, 2004)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. (Afazz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Afazz* »_
You would either need to move the dump valve very close to its respective 'bag or run two airlines from the valve manifold to each 'bag; a standard check valve will only flow in one direction.
You can run a FR setup without the "negative swaybar" effect if you use 2 check valves per corner and a handfull of extra T's. At $4-8 per fitting and $10 per check valve, this will almost always be more expensive than another valve. 
The most important reason why longer air lines make a system softer is that there is more air to compress. Brake fluid is basically uncompressible, so flex in the rubber hose is the issue. Air is a compressible gas, and "stiffness" of an airbag is a function of the air volume in the system. You can improve stiffness by mounting the valves closer to the 'bag or running smaller diameter air line. 
For example: say you have two air cylinders with the same bore and they're both fully extended at 100psi. One is 20" long and the other is 2" long, and you compress each one 1". It will take more force to compress the shorter piston because the volume is reduced by 50%, where the longer cylinder only decreases volume by 5%. If anyone wants me to elaborate I can post some actual numbers and equations later. 
As far as racing with airbags, air springs are far too unpredictable and inconsistent to be used in a competitive racing situation. Having air in the _tires _is enough of a hassle, imagine if your spring rates changed with temperature and humidity also!

_Modified by Afazz at 3:29 PM 12-21-2007_

Thanks for the great info! Def answered my question.


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## [email protected] (Nov 10, 2007)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. (Florida Flow)*

i run 1/4" lines and it handles amazing, better than any coils i've ever owned. 

but then again, the lines are just one part of the equation, **** shocks and struts and great bags will still handle like ****


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## beyondkustom (Aug 9, 2006)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. ([email protected])*

wow, the amount of misinformation in this thread makes me want to punch a goat...
the airline itself has no effect on handling. it does not expand with pressure unless, for some weird reason, you are using non-reinforced rubber hose(& i've seen people do it







).
second, a check valve would have little to no effect on handling, but it is a good idea to run them anyway, in case of airline failure. a good valve will have no leakage anyway, so when aired up, the bag will be full, as well as the line going to both valves. if you have good valves that won't leak, where is the air gonna go? now, if you're only running a 4 valve, front/back setup (and if you are & you're worried about performance, you need to order 4 more valves before you even THINK about a track), the check valves would be a good idea. it's be a pain to plumb all the lines to make it work correctly, but it can be done. me, i'd just do an 8 valve setup & call it a day.

also, the spring rate with bags is progressive and adjustable. for optimum performance, measure your desired ride height for the track, & set up your suspension so it is at 1/2-2/3 stroke at that height. my car, at a little below stock height, & at around 80psi in the front & 60psi in the rear, feels like it's on coils. it goes about 3" above stock height & like 7" below







so, i'm right around that 2/3 stroke. at full pressure, 'bagged vehicles are so stiff it's hard to drive them, so i wouldn't recommend racing it that way, nor would i when it's totally aired out. right around midway-ish should be perfect, if your're set up right. 
oh, and 'bagged cars don't max out at 100psi...mine has a 150psi pressure switch. i used to run my passat at 180psi. all that means is with higher pressure, it airs up faster. my car will straight up bounce off the ground at full pressure. i could hop my last truck...that was fun for showing off







but i never have more than 120psi in my cylinders at any given time...except for some of those stupid speed bumps









ok, i'm really sorry for the long, probably confusing post, i just woke up & my head hurts. 
kthxbai.


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## Starion88esir (Jan 3, 2005)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. (beyondkustom)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beyondkustom* »_second, a check valve would have little to no effect on handling, but it is a good idea to run them anyway, in case of airline failure. a good valve will have no leakage anyway, so when aired up, the bag will be full, as well as the line going to both valves. if you have good valves that won't leak, where is the air gonna go?

I never said it effected handling. I said it will prevent any unwanted leak down. As you can see a good bit of the posts on this forum are from people who either don't know how to set up a system, are trying to go the cheapest possible route or are misinformed.
My Civic (yeah yeah yeah) will hop off the ground with the pressure at 150. It's nothing major, just from a fast fill and that's with only 3/8 lines and valves.
But back on subject, I know of only two valves that are leak proof and most people don't use them. Most use SMC valves on the set ups I've seen.


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## diive4sho (Feb 7, 2004)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. (beyondkustom)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beyondkustom* »_wow, the amount of misinformation in this thread makes me want to punch a goat...
the airline itself has no effect on handling. 

Sorry to burst your bubble but it does have an effect on spring rate and in turn effects handling....I know this for a fact....If you want the stats on how the size of an airline effects the spring rate of a universal air suspension Aero sport bag (which a lot of people on here are using) just call richard over a UAS. I'm not trying to be snippy or rude...just letting you know that it makes a difference.


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## UBER KUHL (May 16, 2005)

just came across this thread, and have also been doing some research. for the mk3's Mike especially, Ive been talking to Scott at Masontech for a while now, and his kit seems pretty damn complete. I have also been thinking about doing the hard lines too. I decided to go for an air setup over coilovers. 
Suprised that Scott hasnt chimed in yet
here's the link
http://www.mason-tech.com/default.asp


_Modified by UBER KUHL at 9:54 PM 12-26-2007_


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## beyondkustom (Aug 9, 2006)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. (diive4sho)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Starion88esir* »_
But back on subject, I know of only two valves that are leak proof and most people don't use them. Most use SMC valves on the set ups I've seen.
i actually sell quite a few SMC valves to mini-truckers. i love 'em, i'm using SMC's on my car right now. there are a lot of people that just want a decent valve & don't want to spend the extra $$$ for the SMC's & get GC's. i sell a ton of those & i've used them too & i've never had or heard of a problem from them. they're a good 2nd choice http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Quote, originally posted by *diive4sho* »_
Sorry to burst your bubble but it does have an effect on spring rate and in turn effects handling....I know this for a fact....If you want the stats on how the size of an airline effects the spring rate of a universal air suspension Aero sport bag (which a lot of people on here are using) just call richard over a UAS. I'm not trying to be snippy or rude...just letting you know that it makes a difference.
ok, how? i would love for someone to prove to me how a *non-expanding *airline has any effect on spring rate. i've had people tell me that it does, but nobody has ever provided me with one single shred of proof other than "well, this guy said..." hearsay does not count as "fact". if you prove me wrong, it's cool, i will be more than happy to agree from here on in, i'm not that stubborn & i don't think i know everything








oh, & the "wow, the amount of misinformation in this thread makes me want to punch a goat..."comment was sarcastic.







i just thought it would sound funny. sorry if i offended anyone.


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## [email protected] (Nov 10, 2007)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. (beyondkustom)*

did some quick calcs
Volume = Pi*(r^2)*h	=	2.208932335	in^3
%	1.270875292 
tubing inner diameter (in)	0.12500	1/4" tubing, 1/8" ID	
tubing length (ft)	15.00000 

Volume = Pi*(r^2)*h	=	8.835729338	in^3
%	5.083501167	
tubing inner diameter (in)	0.25000	3/8" tubing, 1/4" ID	
tubing length (ft)	15.00000 

Volume = Pi*(r^2)*h	=	19.88039101	in^3
%	11.43787762	
tubing inner diameter (in)	0.37500	1/2" tubing, 3/8" ID
tubing length (ft)	15.00000	

for this bag
UAS Aero Sport bag 
Extended Length (in) 9.25 
Diameter (in) 5.875	standard wall thickness .1875" 5.5
Inside sleeve Diameter (in) 2.14	standard wall thickness .1875" 2.515

Bag Volume = 173.8118877	in^3 

basically, for a 15 foot run of 1/2" line, you can see as much as a 11.5% increase in effective bag volume. increase to 20 foot and it goes to 15%. that's why some suggest valve placement as close to the bag as possible to regulate the "hidden" volume


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## Capt. Obvious (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. (beyondkustom)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beyondkustom* »_oh, & the "wow, the amount of misinformation in this thread makes me want to punch a goat..."comment was sarcastic.







i just thought it would sound funny. sorry if i offended anyone. 


I was deeply offended by that comment, goats have feelings too!








_Hookers_, however, don't have feelings (or souls), so they are an acceptable alternative. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif











And, the calculations above are exactly what I was going to point out as well, however with a lot less math...










_Modified by Capt. Obvious at 10:49 AM 12-27-2007_


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## diive4sho (Feb 7, 2004)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. ([email protected])*

Yes I'm a dork too but a busy dork....lol....








I like your explanation.....very easy to follow...


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## [email protected] (Nov 10, 2007)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. (diive4sho)*

well it explains why i run 1/4" lines


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## diive4sho (Feb 7, 2004)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. ([email protected])*

and why dragbags have schrader valves.....yes I said it ...drag bags


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## Dubdout (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. (theflygtiguy)*

okay gents, this is what I gather thus far, You guys are FREAKEN GURUS on this Air bag stuff. I want to bagg my car, but dont have a clue if there a kit available for it. What I don't want is harsh movement when I use the controls. I want it to be a smooth and fluid motion. Also I like spirited driving, Possibly a track day every so often on the weekends.
Now that being said, do you guys know of anything for an 2007 Audi A4 Avant? Thanks


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## [email protected] (Nov 10, 2007)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. (Dubdout)*

i don't know about anyone being a guru on here, there are couple people who seem to know their stuff, and a bunch of people eager to learn. it's nice to have a community to work on this with. 
i've been in this for about 2 years now, i was the guy who setup the easy street mk4 group buy in 2006, bagged my wagon that july, and have been helping others since. i also put together the kit that seemed to spark off a myriad of southern cars on air









but not a guru by any means, i'm not a guy that's out there body dropping a 78 chevy with hard lines and frame tanks. i'm the guy sitting down and planning systems out, modeling parts for the cnc, and calculating theoretical performance. fabrication vs. engineering; i respect them both. 
that said
to answer your question, no, but you can piece together a kit to work with minimal fabrication


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## Capt. Obvious (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. (Dubdout)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Dubdout* »_Now that being said, do you guys know of anything for an 2007 Audi A4 Avant? Thanks









HPA (Eurojet) has a kit for the B6/B7 now, but it's a pretty long wait from what I hear.
My '03 is bagged, you might want to spend some time looking through my build thread:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3489001


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## sundogkid (Jan 9, 2008)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. (Dubdout)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Dubdout* »_
OMG!!!!!














, That is BADDD ASSSS!!!

Thats alot of body roll compared to really stiff coils and sway bars. Just thought I would point it out.


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## jhayesvw (Oct 3, 2001)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. (sundogkid)*

the only way to really tell would be to put a good set of racing type coilovers on a car and track it. get the lap times for the conditions.
then install the bags and track it again. 
the cool thing about bags is that they can be comfy too if set to a medium pressure where RACE coils will not be comfy. 
if you use a nice set of street coils, youre sacrificing ultimate performance, but picking up alot of comfort. 
i would assume that a good bag setup would handle close to that of a good street coilover setup.


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## benny_mech (Mar 5, 2003)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. (theflygtiguy)*

The control system is what makes or breaks the handling on an air ride system. That's why the Praxis System incorporates height sensors, an accelerometer, and an ECU with vehicle specific programming.
If you run your system such that all bags are constantly regulated to a given pressure, the car will lean more when cornering, squat and dive more under accel/decel. When the car enters a turn, the force, and pressure, on the outside bags increases, and the inside bag pressure drops. The regulators compensate by reducing the pressure in the outside bags, and increasing the pressure in the inside bags. That's exactly the opposite response desired under hard cornering. 
The Praxis system uses the height sensors to drive to a specific vehicle height, rather than specific pressure. Thus, when the body rolls, it would dump the inside bags, and inflate the outside ones, like you'd want. 
There are also tweaks that can be done in the software to deal with bumps, like dumping the bag pressure on one corner if the height sensor jumps suddenly. It can get to be as complicated as the engine's ECU programming if you let it.


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## ogerdgonz (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. (theflygtiguy)*









Like you all I have been doing my research on air systems. I want to be able to roll low but also be able to reaise up out of harms way with out losing my cars fun to drive cornering appeal.
The suspension used on the car pictured is what you all are looking for.
























They are a hybrid coil over air bag set up, with built in camber adjustment on the front and 36 valve adjust ability. 
The set up is not cheap though. I would guess a system with 4 struts like pictured (maybe not camber in the back depends on car) with tank, valves, lines, compressor, gauges would be around $5K but I am not sure on that.
You can also run it with out the air compressor and manually inflate the bags after your day of auto cross action with the compressor at the gas station or plugged into your cigarette lighter.
I would be interested to read your feedback on this system.


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## moacur (Sep 22, 2006)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. (ogerdgonz)*

Talk to Joel at Eurojet. He has those(competition series) bags on his MKV. Just the bags and struts will cost you $2199. So you could do a system up for way cheaper then 5K.


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## ogerdgonz (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. (moacur)*

I did not know the pricing on the VW only for a Scion.
Thanks for the info. How is the weather in MN, I grew up in Apple Valley.


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## moonface_mk3 (Oct 20, 2009)

*Re: AirRide and Performance. (ogerdgonz)*

hey im just looking for a full kit for mymk3 golf. anybody?


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## FullCollapse747 (Jun 17, 2009)

Let's revive this discussion... 

I'm about to purchase a mk4 R32 and am beginning to plan to suspension set up. I want good stance, which has pushed me towards bags, but I don't want to compromise driveability. 

With the right air set up, can I still drive my R32 the way it's meant to be driven? Or are coilovers just a better option if I want good handling?


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## 98DUB (Feb 21, 2003)

FullCollapse747 said:


> Let's revive this discussion...
> 
> I'm about to purchase a mk4 R32 and am beginning to plan to suspension set up. I want good stance, which has pushed me towards bags, but I don't want to compromise driveability.
> 
> With the right air set up, can I still drive my R32 the way it's meant to be driven? Or are coilovers just a better option if I want good handling?


 Really?


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## BeasTToftheEast (Sep 20, 2007)

I know this thread hasn't been touched in a while, but I have a fully built motor in my Audi TT and I'm currently running H&R coilovers, however after minor amounts of research I'm thinking about pricing out a sport tuned airbag suspension kit. Any advice on best companies to go with with for price/performance, etc.


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## [email protected] (Jan 25, 2008)

Air vs Coil-overs

http://www.airliftperformance.com/airvscoilover/ :thumbup:


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## BeasTToftheEast (Sep 20, 2007)

That is definitely promising, however it's important to know what coil-overs were used. To say all coil-overs are the same is just a complete falsehood as a set of $700 small market brand compared to the top of the line KW's are just different animals.


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## BeasTToftheEast (Sep 20, 2007)

Does anyone know what coil-overs were used to make the comparison?


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## Buck Russell (Feb 24, 2003)

TTguy30 said:


> Does anyone know what coil-overs were used to make the comparison?


They were using KW V2s or V3s for this test. Contrary to popular belief, it wasn't some no-name coilover. :thumbup::thumbup:


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## BeasTToftheEast (Sep 20, 2007)

O ok I wasn't making any assumptions, but it matters what you're comparing the air ride to ofcourse.


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## Buck Russell (Feb 24, 2003)

TTguy30 said:


> O ok I wasn't making any assumptions, but it matters what you're comparing the air ride to ofcourse.


Wasn't implyling that you were making any assumptions. However, the speculation and coutnless monday morning QB comments on other forums is out of hand. Figured I'd clear it up for future reference!


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## BeasTToftheEast (Sep 20, 2007)

I may have an opportunity to be sponsored by AirRex, does anyone have any input on their product?


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## c0r3y.af (Oct 8, 2009)

TTguy30 said:


> I may have an opportunity to be sponsored by AirRex, does anyone have any input on their product?


Why would you post that here? :banghead:


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## BeasTToftheEast (Sep 20, 2007)

Because this is an airride and performance thread, not just company specific the last I checked...

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk


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## andyhurz20 (Feb 1, 2006)

*Put this idea of Air not being a viable performance solution to bed.*

Lets just put this to rest. I installed a full Air Lift Performance suspension (Camber Plates with 30 way adjustable dampening) with Air Lift Performance rear shocks (30 way adjustable dampening). I hard mounted the tank, compressor, manifold, CV, water trap, and anything else that would move around. So I drove the car to the track on a nice soft setting, unpacked her, and stiffened everything up for the track. Then had a nice soft ride home. Best of both works in my opinion! Here are some photos and links to my Instructor Run group at Lime Rock Park. You guys can decide from there.


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## perickomx (Nov 13, 2007)

Well, im a noob on this kind of suspension, and YES, i was one of the guys that said all the things in the first post.

Recently i acquired and installed Airlift Performance Setup for my Mk3 VR6 with Autopilot v2, and let me tell you, since maybe it's the "basic" setup, they shutted my mouth off...honestly if you ride high it feels like cheap-mid range coil overs, but once you get at mid-height or lower, man... it feels as good as the Stock OEM suspension in great conditions.

I do use my car daily on long distanced and have nothing to complain, i drive over different road surfaces... all good.

I like Bags now.


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