# You want a boost act. exhaust cutout, but don't have $400 you say?



## ncsumecheng (Nov 1, 2005)

You want this:
http://www.spracingonline.com/store/SP_Exhaust_Cutout_3__34___Boost_Activated_/3673

But don't have this: $400

I will assemble mine next week in the shop here at work.

Parts: Cost = (mine, if you don't have it laying around)

-3/8" thick 3.0" exhaust flange: (Free, $30)
-Used OEM wastegate actuator: ($10, don't pay more than $20 for used)
-Bracket for actuator: Free, find scrap metal
-Ball joint: McMaster P/N 6058K67 in stainless, ($8.19,$8.19)
-Ball joint to butterfly shaft connection: Free, just use scrap
-Y-pipe, stainless: ($47,$47) ........note this isn't included with an SPRacing valve
-OEM or other small/quiet muffler: (??, $30)....most used OEM mufflers don't cost much from the classifieds
-Reducer from 3" to OEM size: ($15, $15)....need with an SPRacing valve also
-Butterfly rod, your choice: about ($10,$10)....mcmaster stainless rod, 1/4" for example
-Butterfly: Free, just use scrap
-Access to a shop

Total: about ($125,$175)
SPRacing total with y-pipe and reducer: $400 + $15 + $50 = $465

Your savings: Well over $200

Photos when complete........I have an OEM wastegate actuator in hand and tested, ordering parts soon.....will fab custom parts while ordered parts arrive.

Carryon.......


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## Yareka (Mar 5, 2002)

Go Stan!

Build me one at the same time sir, cash in hand and Ive got the wastegate actuator.


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## AlexiGTIVR6 (Jul 21, 2000)

I built this 6 years ago. Was a direct replacement for the cat. Back then the valves where a bit harder to find. Can remember what it cost but deff wasnt much over a $100

I Ran it on my vrt with stock exhaust for over 3 years. I made over 400whp with it. I had it open at 6 psi. I eventually switched to a complete 3" exhaust as i got tired of the loud exhaust every time i boosted it.  The 3" is very quite in comparison

The powre deff was restricted when closed so when it opened the boost hit really hard. Was really annoying if i set it to open any sooner.

Once i installed the 3" exhaust my power band smoothed out making the car much better to drive hard also

It was fun when i had it but im much happier with a real exhaust system


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## VWBugman00 (Mar 17, 2009)

ncsumecheng said:


> You want this:
> http://www.spracingonline.com/store/SP_Exhaust_Cutout_3__34___Boost_Activated_/3673
> 
> But don't have this: $400
> ...


In for DIY!opcorn:


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## Nevaeh_Speed (Jul 9, 2004)

Just went 3" 2 days ago, with this...









http://www.dynomax.com/mufflers.php?muffler=vt


sound isn't to bad... but a resonator or two would be nice...


Looking forward to this DIY anyhow.


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## ncsumecheng (Nov 1, 2005)

Parts delayed.....messing with my new to me arduino uno kit this week.....


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## VWBugman00 (Mar 17, 2009)

Nevaeh_Speed said:


> Just went 3" 2 days ago, with this...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Makes me wonder, how much of a reduction in sound is it? It's not for my VW, but my wifes Honda is loud as hell with its magnaflow muffler.


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## ncsumecheng (Nov 1, 2005)

Update: 

All parts ordered/in except for the OEM used muffler. I have cut the mounting bracket for the wg actuator, put the coupling on it from McMaster, cut a stainless butterfly, cut a stainless piece of tubing and ground a flat on it for the butterfly shaft, cut the exhaust flange. 

All that is left is mounting the actuator to the mounting bracket and mounting the bracket to the exhaust flange. 

Then, it will be a fun afternoon of measure 4 times, cut once, re-install exhaust........


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## pileofredparts (Mar 20, 2009)

i have the sp one on my car 

i was going to make one, but if you use stainless and new components its hard to beat their price if you figure in labor


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## ncsumecheng (Nov 1, 2005)

Yes, labor is the pain.

I wanted to put the cutout pipe, catalyst, and good muffler on the car first. I recently welded that up and is working. About as quiet as 3" can get. I ditched the idea of OEM size, too little flow before boost. I am very happy with the volume level now.

Back to work on the cutout soon. My only concern is in my jackleg machinist ability versus legit parts and how much or how loudly the valve will leak when closed.

Looking at videos of the SP part and electric QTP parts, they all seem to naturally 'leak' to some degree. It isn't possible to have a true unrestricted 3" flow if you also seal it perfectly when closed.


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