# So, its been out for a while. Thoughts, impressions, any installed pics on TT? 034 intake manifold for 1.8t



## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

I have mine...have it setup and ready to go soon. Plumbed for a USRT direct port kit I am installing to upgrade my WMI setup a bit. I was one of the guys who got in on the pre-sale, bought in and then kicked myself just a little two months later when the SEM was put back into production. However, I am sticking with it (due to the investment). I know there were some casting issues, gasket blow outs, etc. but has anyone here gotten their installed, up and running? Thoughts? Impressions? 

Just curious! Pics....even better! Did search...nothing much shared thus far (which scares me a bit...unless we all have them sitting on shelves at the moment).

-Joe


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

Mine has been in now for about 4 months.. you can get the full details in my thread. Overall happy with the upgrade, but a few things.

- Had to raise the battery and detach the OEM MAP sensor pipe to get everything to fit with transition spacer (battery relocation would be best)
- Had the casting bug that seems to be present in other user manifolds
- Just down at NGP Tuesday for a dyno and they pointed out oil coming from the bottom side of the manifold, so it seems the gasket between the two halves may be compromised (or the vacuum assembly right below it is spraying oil on the bottom side)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ter-(BBTR)&p=84656527&viewfull=1#post84656527


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

Those are good things to know ahead of installing mine. 

I have heard a couple things about that gasket and have wondered if it wouldn't be better to run a sealant bead vs. the gasket alone. 

Did you torque the bolts for the halves to 8 ft/lb ? Though it hasn't been said, advertised, etc, supposedly that is the spec. 

Hoping this manifold works out. As I said, kicking myself a bit that I didn't go SEM 

Out of curiosity...does the batter shroud still fit with having raised the battery?

Joe


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Doing well so far last year with mine. Picked up 7mph on the straight at Lime Rock. Checking for leaks this weekend prior to the season starting up in a couple weeks. Over all I am happy with the purchase. Off my trap speeds, I would say its worth 30-35awhp on the K04.

In hind sight, I think I would have gone the SEM route if I did it again. I like the versatility of being able to sell it and the end user being able to use any side TB, however I doubt that it will ever get sold. If it does leak, I am going to weld the two halfs together and be done with it.

I had no problems with the MAP sensor or battery, if you check out my build thread, you have to cut the TB pipe and insert an extra 3" of pipe to raise it up.


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

DeckManDubs said:


> Doing well so far last year with mine. Picked up 7mph on the straight at Lime Rock. Checking for leaks this weekend prior to the season starting up in a couple weeks. Over all I am happy with the purchase. Off my trap speeds, I would say its worth 30-35awhp on the K04.
> 
> In hind sight, I think I would have gone the SEM route if I did it again. I like the versatility of being able to sell it and the end user being able to use any side TB, however I doubt that it will ever get sold. If it does leak, I am going to weld the two halves together and be done with it.
> 
> I had no problems with the MAP sensor or battery, if you check out my build thread, you have to cut the TB pipe and insert an extra 3" of pipe to raise it up.


I will check that out in your thread. the less mods to make it work, the better. Sounds like I could do this quite easily. Good to hear your positive reviews. Though, I have the SAME feeling now re: SEM but I'm not going to tuck tail on this just for that fact. Just hoping it turns out to be a good investment. I am really considering this sealant idea as well. If I was going to weld it...should've done it before as mine is already powder coated and ready to go. Plumbing the USRT direct port on it this weekend. Have to figure out what I want to do throttle body wise too. 










Joe


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## Kacz07 (Mar 4, 2012)

30-35awhp? Nice. Lemme know if you're interested in getting rid.


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

Only way I would do that is to sell even in order to get the SEM.

Besides, mine is already drilled/plumbed for direct port as well.

Joe


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

Cracked mine apart yesterday and as expected... user install issue with the gasket not being seated perfectly the first time. Cleaned both halves really well and bolted everything back in... so far no leaks on about 50 miles.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Boulderhead said:


> Cracked mine apart yesterday and as expected... user install issue with the gasket not being seated perfectly the first time. Cleaned both halves really well and bolted everything back in... so far no leaks on about 50 miles.


Tony,

I found using some new stainless hardware from McMaster helps get a better torque. The ones that come with the manifold seem to bottom out in their shoulder prior to getting a good fit. I also used blue loctite on all of mine.


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

DeckManDubs said:


> Tony,
> 
> I found using some new stainless hardware from McMaster helps get a better torque. The ones that come with the manifold seem to bottom out in their shoulder prior to getting a good fit. I also used blue loctite on all of mine.



This is exactly what I had thought about doing! Do you happen to have the specs on what you bought. A local hardware store around me here has an AWESOME hardware selection!
The bolts it does come with due seem fairly difficult to torque to spec! 

Glad someone else is using blue loctite as well. This is a good plan. Any insight on exactly what you got (did you stick with allen head?), specs, etc. would be awesome!


Joe


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

DeckManDubs said:


> Tony,
> 
> I found using some new stainless hardware from McMaster helps get a better torque. The ones that come with the manifold seem to bottom out in their shoulder prior to getting a good fit. I also used blue loctite on all of mine.


Very good to know.. will certainly go that route if I see any other issues.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

RabbitGTDguy said:


> This is exactly what I had thought about doing! Do you happen to have the specs on what you bought. A local hardware store around me here has an AWESOME hardware selection!
> The bolts it does come with due seem fairly difficult to torque to spec!
> 
> Glad someone else is using blue loctite as well. This is a good plan. Any insight on exactly what you got (did you stick with allen head?), specs, etc. would be awesome!
> ...


Joe,

IIRC it was some M5x0.8 IIRC, could have been some M4x0.7, cant remember off hand. But here is your basic link. 

http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=rtk4v4

I would take one out and measure how long the threads are, I want to say it was like 15 or 20mm lg. I stuck with the socket head cap screws, tightened to about 8-12ft/lbs or so in a circular pattern starting from the inside and working out. The OE fuel rail is a PITA to fit correctly and requires some spacers to get the right angle (use red loctite on those ones, I have had them come out twice  )


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

Noah,

I have the BBM rail with 550cc EV14 genesis units...I wonder if that will fit nicely! 

Will take a look into the hardware...

I considered a Allen head like this...only in stainless. Felt it would pull the assembly together better..










Joe


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

RabbitGTDguy said:


> Noah,
> 
> I have the BBM rail with 550cc EV14 genesis units...I wonder if that will fit nicely!
> 
> ...



Those should work fine!


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

Noticing on the McMaster site that many have lock washers, etc. Amazing what they have! Eve ones that can be wire tied!

Did you opt for lock washers? 

My thinking on the socket head style was that they have a much deeper recess for torquing purposes (I found even slight torque with the bolts that come with it (even with correct wrench) tend to feel as if they want to slip!).

Maybe this will prove to be an excellent investment after all.

Joe


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*So, its been out for a while. Thoughts, impressions, any installed pics on TT...*

Joe, I used regular cap screws, but with lock washers could be good too. The stock ones are crap and your right about them feeling like thy are going to strip out. 

McMaster does have a great site setup for all sorts of things.


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

*So, its been out for a while. Thoughts, impressions, any installed pics on TT...*

This is a great thread guys!

I also bought it on pre-sale and am about to install.
Unfortunately one of the heads of the stock screws snapped off while torquing  though 034 will send me some replacements.
I think they shoyld have sent the manifold configured for my 225 already instead of the 180 but oh well.

Did you all ever find out the actual screw size so I can order back ups from McMaster-Carr?

BTW, 034 website does state now that torque is 8 ft-lb


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

That is in part why I started the thread. Haven't seen much on it, reviews, etc.

I had said the same thing to Laszlo originally too but the justification was that since they were sold for both platforms that it was simply the way they came.

However, did advise them not to affix that label to all of them as setup for a p side car. They said they were not going to do that in the future and send the badge seperately (though, don't believe I will be using mine).

I didn't get to the hardware store today to check the thres size and pitch.

Joe


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

Agreed.
Please report back once you have the actual size.

FYI I just confirmed the stock bolt do not bottom out on threads (I used the snapped bolt to measure).

Joe, that powder coating job looks tits!!!


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

M6x1.00 bolts


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

Yep, M6 x 1.00. Bought a slew of stainless hardware for it at the local hardware store the other day. Lowes has the correct size/length as well (but usually never enough in their bins). 

More progress on mine. This last weekend I adapted the 70mm throttle body to the 034 manifold without needing an adaptor plate. 

This rotates the throttle body from the stock mounting position slightly. Electronics are "up" to aid flow and keep the WMI happy...

After much fiddling, dug out the drill and tap and ended up here....










had to make a gasket as it seems elusive to find...everything listed as a o-ring only...










only a slight amount of porting made it have a complete opening from the throttle body itself with NO restriction...



















mounted...

only issue is where 034 decided to take one of the OEM throttle body mounting holes on the manifold ALL THE WAY through the manifold into the area were the IAT sensor goes. To me, I'm not sure why they did this. Seems "prone" to a leak in the first place since we aren't talking about "sealing threads" when it comes to the bolts that are used for mounting the throttle body. With my rotation, it expose that hole someone. The hole is easily plugged with a M6x1.0 threaded plug wrapped with Teflon tape. The gasket seals it for a second barrier up top. 




















next up is plumbing the direct port injection from USRT




















More to follow...test fit maybe tomorrow to get an idea of what I need to do with the USRT manifold mounting and gauge....

Joe


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Looks good Joe! I can agree from an engineering standpoint, through tapping those holes is a no-no as the possibility of leaks is quite high. I made sure to use plenty of loctite on all of them. 

However from the manufacturer standpoint, tapping blind holes (Holes with bottoms) requires bottoming plug taps which are much more expensive than the standard cut taps which they used on this manifold. It also requires a more care in the programming of the machining center to ensure that a tap is not going to bottom out in the hole, while still maintaining a good thread depth.


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

Are you saying I went about it the wrong way?

None of them went through the casting into the plenum. 

It seems to have sealed nice and tight and with the gasket in place I have little worry.

Just curious. 

Joe


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*So, its been out for a while. Thoughts, impressions, any installed pics on TT...*

Joe, using the Teflon tape will be fine. The way threads work anyways tends to make them a good seal. I am a little OCD when it comes things like that, a bit more overkill.


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

Ah, gotcha! You were mainly talking about their process and that one "through hole". I just honestly don't understand why they did it? Doesn't make much sense as there is plenty of room for depth there without having to drill through...

Joe


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

Trying to check what you guys have done as far as: 
1. 90 degree elbow on passenger side to connect the hose on the pcv/breather system.
2. How to affix back the black plate with the valve/hoses that sits under the stock manifold plastic cover?

Also looks like the engine cover can't be used with this manifold. Has anyone reused it?

Just trying to figure it all out before I tear the manifold apart.

I did get some hardware to replace the soft socket screws the manifold comes with.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Converted2VW said:


> Trying to check what you guys have done as far as:
> 1. 90 degree elbow on passenger side to connect the hose on the pcv/breather system.
> 2. How to affix back the black plate with the valve/hoses that sits under the stock manifold plastic cover?
> 
> ...



Luis,

I had to cut the vacuum line and put in a 90* that I had kicking around. Running no covers so I cant help ya on that one.


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

Converted2VW said:


> Trying to check what you guys have done as far as:
> 1. 90 degree elbow on passenger side to connect the hose on the pcv/breather system.
> 2. How to affix back the black plate with the valve/hoses that sits under the stock manifold plastic cover?
> 
> ...


Hey Luis, I dropped in a 90 degree elbow I had laying around and hooked into one of the ports on the lower manifold with a small section of hose. In regards to the plate that holds the N112 for secondary air, I separated the sensor from the black metal plate (two set screws) and simply zip tied it to the bracket which holds the knock sensors under the manifold. Its out of the way and having the black plate removed makes it much easier to replace oil filters through the top of the engine bay rather than trying to sneak it out the bottom with the OEM charge tubing in the way.

Just like Noah, I run without that main cover, but I would imagine enough trimming on the underside could make it happen if you really wanted it back in.


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

Thanks Noah and Tony. 

Glad I asked! I've been looking for a 90 degree elbow with a M10 thread to use for this but will now consider a rubber 90.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Luis,

When I overhaul after this season I am planning on re-doing the line as its showing some age with some Fragola fittings when I put in a vacuum accumulator. 

http://fragolaperformancesystems.com/


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

Those look nice Noah!

One more thing, installed the manifold and a forge tb hose, i get now why raising the battery tray and adding hose is needed. The tb and the hose dont match at all!

I also have a phenolic spacer (from 034) which might not help.

Interesting how its advertised as a bolt but is far from that!


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

Converted2VW said:


> Those look nice Noah!
> 
> One more thing, installed the manifold and a forge tb hose, i get now why raising the battery tray and adding hose is needed. The tb and the hose dont match at all!
> 
> ...


Hi Luis, I think the spacer puts things a bit more out of place as the manifold is sitting higher (also have it on my install). Raising the battery tray was a very simple work around, but trimming the TB hose ends a bit would also take some stress off things and create a better fit. I am considering taking .5 inch off both top and bottom to put less stress on the bend from the MAP pipe to the TB.


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

Thanks Tony, I was thinking about trimming as well...
Have even considered trimming the ends at a slight angle to minimize stress. Will look at the hose profile one more time to make sure it can work.

On another note, I did replace all the hardware with better bolts, washers and and lock washers


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

Here's my fix to the problem of the intake hose not being long enough:










And here's the install completed


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

Hey Luis, did you lift the battery as well with this.. or was the extension all you needed? Looks like simple and cost effective solution, nice work!:beer:

Also, seems I am the only one that used the top vacuum ports and plugged the bottoms...


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

Well thanks Tony 
No battery raising needed. The elongated intake manifold hose Does the trick just fine!

And yeah I used the bottom ports instead for a cleaner look as I already have a lot of hoses on top of the engine (all them n249 hoses!)


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Exact same thing I did Luis :thumbup::thumbup:


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

Hahaha great minds...


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

Hey Noah or Luis, do you either of you have any good mileage on this manifold yet?


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

Boulderhead said:


> Hey Noah or Luis, do you either of you have any good mileage on this manifold yet?


I have over 6 months with it installed. about 5,000 miles (including 2 track weekends)


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Boulderhead said:


> Hey Noah or Luis, do you either of you have any good mileage on this manifold yet?


10 track events and about 8k miles or so on mine. No issues :thumbup:


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