# my copy od 42dd short ram intake



## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

i liked the 42dd intake but the price was way to steep for a simple intake so i built my own with ebay parts.


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

made one of these: 








for less then this:


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

here is the build list 

$35.00 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/230772116422?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 

$60.00 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-N-Air-Fil...Parts_Accessories&hash=item564a2dd14b&vxp=mtr 

$5.00 

24"x24" sheet of stainless from local scrap yard 

left over door stripping im going to change it to a better looking molding after i paint the box black.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

taverncustoms said:


> made one of these:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 :laugh:


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

stickin it to the man. i think my filter is bigger too....oh and my heat shield lol 

yep:


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Expect to get some heat about claiming that your copying 42s design. 
opcorn:


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

warranty225cpe said:


> Expect to get some heat about claiming that your copying 42s design.
> opcorn:


 LOL clearly any one can see the differance in quality, and im sure thats what your paying for. notice its not a billet aluminum volocity stack (VS) but a stamped metal type and the transition fron the VS to the TB is probly not even close to as good as the 42dd but yes thats where i got the idea. im not selling them so they cant get to mad. i think they do great work just a little exspencive for my DD. 

i would also like to point out there are no claims about performance but it sure does sound amazing


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Why don't you put a worm clamp on where that T bolt is, it looks a little out of place.


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## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

Well damn.. That was exactly what i was going to do aswell.. Looks good. 
What did you do with the sai hose?


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## jgar (Feb 11, 2009)

*Good Job*

I have been working on finishing one of these for about the last 4 months. Bought the stack, made a mount I just couldn't find anyone over here in Germany that sells a filter large enough.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Actually, my setup is pretty similar. I use a BPI velocity stack with the 6" inlet K&N, and a silicone coupler to the MAF. The difference is I think heat shields are a gimmick and do nothing if at all, and even then only at idle. I just let the MAF/filter/stack combo rest in the bottom of the OEM airbox, that I removed all the ribs and useless internals of (this was more for when I ran the actual airbox). :thumbup:


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

Bravo for doing it yourself:thumbup:


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

pretty nice...just need to make it bigger to compare to the 42dd one. :thumbup:


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## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

Nice work! I can't wait to do something with my intake.


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## Late__Apex (Dec 2, 2007)

*BTDT*


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Audiguy84 said:


> Well damn.. That was exactly what i was going to do aswell.. Looks good.
> What did you do with the sai hose?


 1.22" push in valve cover breather and hose clamp juat remove the rubber and its a 1" stem


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Late__Apex said:


>


 nice was this before this thread?


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Krissrock said:


> pretty nice...just need to make it bigger to compare to the 42dd one. :thumbup:


 looking at the pictures they look close to the same size but my filter looks longer


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## Late__Apex (Dec 2, 2007)

taverncustoms said:


> nice was this before this thread?


 Yeah, I did this back in March.


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## 180dan (Apr 4, 2011)

taverncustoms said:


> here is the build list
> 
> $35.00
> 
> ...


 You can save $30 by going with this alternative 

Velocity stack and silcone coupler/t-bolts- $27 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/320909598964?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=470938631&pf_rd_i=507846 

K+N filter for $39 
http://www.amazon.com/RU-3100-Unive..._1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1338526259&sr=1-1


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Late__Apex said:


> Yeah, I did this back in March.


 nice lol


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

180dan said:


> You can save $30 by going with this alternative
> 
> Velocity stack and silcone coupler/t-bolts- $27
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/320909598964?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
> ...


 

I think a couple of parts are missing from the list. 










#1 looks like an air filter for the smaller hose that is connected to the stock intake box (I'm not sure what it feeds, but it runs around the front of the engine) 

#2 is a piece that I think I need to be able to connect all of the other pieces to the tubing for the intake 



I've got all the parts above and was looking to attach them today, but after a closer look and some fiddling around I dont think I have everything I need. The disappointment.. :facepalm:


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> I think a couple of parts are missing from the list.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 #1 pick up a 1.25 chevy valve cover push in breather from your local auto parts stor should only be 5-10 bucks for the small filter. it just feeds your air pump. and is only used for 1min after startup. clamp the hose to the breather. 

#2 bolt the MAF to the heatshield, and hose clamp the volocity stack via a silicone hose to the MAF it has a 1/2" shoulder after you remove it from the airbox.


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

taverncustoms said:


> #1 pick up a 1.25 chevy valve cover push in breather from your local auto parts stor should only be 5-10 bucks for the small filter. it just feeds your air pump. and is only used for 1min after startup. clamp the hose to the breather.
> 
> #2 bolt the MAF to the heatshield, and hose clamp the volocity stack via a silicone hose to the MAF it has a 1/2" shoulder after you remove it from the airbox.


 
:thumbup:


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> :thumbup:


 post a pic what you get it in


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

taverncustoms said:


> post a pic what you get it in


 
I'll have pics and before and after sounds with the hood open. Very simple install


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Is there somewhere I can get a heat shield like that? I'm not able to find one so it's looking like I'm going to have to make my own out of some cheapo aluminum from Home Depot


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

I did the same thing yesterday. Took my heat shield out today and added the two brackets I fabricated for it, then painted it flat black. Installing the heat shield, some of the paint got scratched off since I didn't let it sit for an entire day first, but the tiny scratches dont bother me. Looks good, but I believe it hinders the performance of the turbo.... unlike stock intake design. Love the sound though :thumbup: 

Stock air box 










Before paint 










After paint 


























You'll have to excuse the video quality. Ignore all other sounds of the engine my camera picked up and listen for the difference in the throttle between the two videos. First is the stock intake and second is the K&N cone filter. 

[video]http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/7773/qmy.mp4[/video] 
[video]http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/7780/dtl.mp4[/video] 



*What I've noticed:* 

It seems as though the stock intake was doing a better job as far as supplying the most boost possible for my car. I have the k03 with Unitronics Stage 1+ and an upgraded DV. The stock airbox PULLS air from the side of the car behind the front left headlight/battery area. It was the only place it could get it's air from and I believe it was cooler than the air my car is getting now. 

The heat shield blocks as much hot air as possible from getting to the intake, but it is not molded to the under-side of the hood and therefore isn't flush. As you know, hot air rises and I believe gets sucked in this way OVER the heat shield. It probably radiates from the firewall as well and possibly from the side closest to the fender. I'm thinking of pulling my battery and other components out of the engine bay to create my own air pick-up that would start behind the front lip and take cool air up around the side to the filter via a ram-air effect. The best possible solution would be to enclose the box completely (like what was done with the stock box) but that defeats the purpose of the mod. You wouldn't hear the throttle anymore than you would with the stock components. 



That's ok. At least I didn't spend $330 on an intake system that wasn't as efficient as the stock system :laugh:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

The "throttle" doesn't make noise.  I really really really REALLY hate the thinking that aftermarket intake heat shields has firmly planted in the heads of car modding people. Does hot air rise? Yes. Is air stagnant in your engine bay while you are doing 30 mph? 60 mph? No. There is airflow through the radiator and all around the engine and it exits at the bottom of the engine bay/around the subframe. Car designers make trade offs over this. The powertrain guys want as much air flow through the engine bay as possible. The stylists want to give them as little airflow as possible to maintain the styling direction of the car. The point is, the heatshield isn't "isolating" the intake from anything. If you leave the duct that feeds the bottom of the stock airbox in place, that same volume and temperature of air is going to go in the filter and to the turbo. Don't worry about the stupid heatshield. :thumbup:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

^^^ Chuck, on top of what Adam just said, there are two things involve in this: 

1) *Volume and flow* 
Simply put, increase the volume of air flowed to the compressor and you have gained power. There is no "if" or "but" about it. This can easily be measured by the MAF that registers an increase of mass air flowing to the turbo in G/S. From my experiences and tests, a higher flowing filter with a V-stack will, without a doubt, increase mass air over the restrictive compromise of the OEM box/filter. The results can be quite substantial (especially from midrange and up) with these setup discussed here. 

2) *Air temperature* 

Colder air is more dense and there is a theoretical and practical advantage to cramming denser air into your engine. What you guys are not bringing into the discussion is that the relatively colder air that you would get from a fresh feed is going to get compressed by the turbo (heated) then intercooled (cooled again) before finally reaching the manifold and engine. If the effect of potentially colder air is not being registered by the IAT sensor, I don't care what theory anyone can come up with, it's useless in the real world. 

Now, anyone still listening must be asking themselves how does this apply to our TT. Well, I experimented with all kind of intake combinations ranging from, open filter on the MAF- to- fully insulated filter with outside fresh feed - to - big volume filter and properly designed V-stack from 42DD. These are my findings: 

- The small decrease in air temp at the filter is not worth chasing. After all my efforts to properly seal the filter from engine air, and provide a sealed fresh air feed, I showed nothing from it at the IAT sensor. Absolutely nothing, the average and maximum temp recorded did not improve after everything got compressed and intercooled. 

- On the flip side, my recorded G/S at the MAF took a substantial hit from restricting flow with the shield and ducting. An unrestricted open filter will always show more G/S than a restricted one, with all else remaining constant. 

So the verdict is, on our turbo cars at least, flow is a lot more important than intake temperature. If you have to sacrifice a single gram of mass air to get colder intake temperature, you're loosing the battle. Get as much flow and volume as possible to the turbo because that's where you'll see real life measurable gains. 

*Here are the various combinations I tried and tested (in no particular order). The shielded setup had a sealed outside air feed and the box was ceramic coated. *


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> -The small decrease in air temp at the filter is not worth chasing.


 And that right there is the point. Yes, colder is better. But you're not going to get 20*C colder intake temps from a heat shield in the engine.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

20v master said:


> Yes, colder is better. But you're not going to get 20*C colder intake temps from a heat shield in the engine.


 And the big question is "even if you could make it happen, how much of it will actually make it to the engine after it is compressed and intercooled? ". That would be very interesting to test!


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> And the big question is "even if you could make it happen, how much of it will actually make it to the engine after it is compressed and intercooled? ". That would be very interesting to test!


 Well, the delta T of the actual compression (temperature change) is going to be pretty constant because we're not talking about huge difference in inlet air temps. It wouldn't be hard to model for an eager young buck in a thermodynamics class, but I'm pretty lazy, and grasp the concept so I know what's important.  It wouldn't be hard to compare IAT's to ambient in cold weather vs warm weather if no other mods were added/changed. The colder it is going into the turbo, the colder it will becoming out. Same for the IC. It's just not the first area to tackle when looking for gains/rewards, as there is lower lying sweeter fruit elsewhere.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

20v master said:


> Well, the delta T of the actual compression (temperature change) is going to be pretty constant because we're not talking about huge difference in inlet air temps. It wouldn't be hard to model for an eager young buck in a thermodynamics class, but I'm pretty lazy, and grasp the concept so I know what's important.  It wouldn't be hard to compare IAT's to ambient in cold weather vs warm weather if no other mods were added/changed. The colder it is going into the turbo, the colder it will becoming out. Same for the IC. It's just not the first area to tackle when looking for gains/rewards, as there is lower lying sweeter fruit elsewhere.


 My point was that although the delta T of the compression is pretty constant, it seems that the intercooler is more efficient (dissipate more heat, and keeping the heat soaking threshold out of the equation) in practice, the hotter the air coming through its inlet. 

The empirical data from the shielded filter with fresh feed revealed no real improvement in temp recorded at the IAT sensor. However, there was decent difference in temperature ingested from the filter (temp probe confirmed it). I'll leave the theoretical explanation to you, but the practice seems to suggest that there's a higher IC delta T, the hotter the air (and this somehow cancels the advantage gained by the lower filter temp). 

I am sure there are theories and formulas that explains it... and that is why I thought that a real life test of the heat exchanger efficiency based on inlet temp, would be cool to do.


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

I'm not making the heat shield into a big important thing. Yes, I can feel the shield and it's significantly hotter than the filter, so it IS blocking heat from getting back into the intake, but the hottest part of the filter is on the top where the heat rises in the engine bay. 


I know flow is better in the car, but as compared to the stock airbox I am now taking in hot air along with the cool air. This slight decrease has made a 2lbs boost difference on my gauge. The stock intake was restricted, but it was restricted to ONLY taking in the coldest air from the engine bay. 

Like your first picture, Marcus, I want to grab air from that side of the engine bay and see if I can route it so that it comes from behind the lower-left honeycomb of the front lip. At speed it should act as a fan keeping cooler air coming in to the filter, but I dont want to box the filter in. The only other option would be to have a vented hood, but out of all of the years I've been looking for that I have not found one that looked good or was cheap enough to order and grind me teeth everytime I look at my car.:laugh: 


That being said, with the small mods I have I still believe it's best to leave the stock intake in. When you go bigger and get a more sophisticated setup then it's beneficial to reduce the restriction of the stock intake by upgrading to a open cone intake. I still want to make this work as well as the stock intake because the sound is niiiiice :thumbup:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> Yes, I can feel the shield and it's significantly hotter than the filter, so it IS blocking heat from getting back into the intake, but the hottest part of the filter is on the top where the heat rises in the engine bay.


 Again, heat rises while the vehicle isn't moving. When moving, there is airflow through the engine bay. Are you feeling the heat shield after sitting in traffic, after driving aggressively, or after driving at a constant speed for a few miles? 



Chuckmeister87 said:


> I know flow is better in the car, but as compared to the stock airbox I am now taking in hot air along with the cool air. This slight decrease has made a 2lbs boost difference on my gauge.


 Did you remove the tube that feeds the lower half of the airbox? If not, the same air that the stock airbox draws in is being fed to the turbo. Where is this hot air coming from? You lost 2 psi compared to what exactly? The stock airbox is a box to dampen noise and house a cheap filter, not to isolate the filter to "cooler" air or make power.


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Yes, I drive a constant speed of 50mph down the road closest to my house and when I pull up I pop the hood. The only warm part of my filter is the top. I believe there isn't enough airflow between the filter and the hood. 

I DO have the little black tube that fed the stock intake still in place, but because the old intake was fully enclosed it pulled ALL air through the tube. The tube gets much cooler air than a filter seems to get from under the hood. The only way to get the same temp air as the stock airbox would be to fully enclose the cone filter and use the same tube as the stock airbox, or to try and get a ram-air effect going so that at speed cooler air is constantly being passed over the filter and kind of getting "stored" in the heat shield area. 


Again, I believe the heat is radiating from the engine and coming back down to the filter over the heat shield (science tells us that heat is a wave so even if hot air doesnt make it over the heat shield very much, waves can bounce off the underside of the hood like a mirror and come down onto the intake). I lost 2psi when I changed from the stock intake to the filter I have on there now. 2psi from the turbo is not much, maybe 7hp, but it's still something. 



Really, you can't argue that the stock filter is less restrictive than the cone filter, the stock didn't employ any kind of ram-air effect to force air into the engine, but the stock airbox grabbed cooler air. The only difference between the stock and the current setup that could have altered the psi coming from the turbo is the slight change in air temperature being fed into the intake. I can't think of any other explanation. The guys at Audi actually knew a little something when they designed that intake


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Chuck, the open filter didn't make you lose 2 psi (I am sure of it). Something else is "off", it could be your method of testing boost pressure before and after, or something else. 

-Are you doing same gear pulls at WOT (from a slow roll to redline) on the same road and same day? 
-Are you logging your claim of pressure loss or just eyeballing the gauge? 
-Is the intake mod the single variable? 
-Are you by any chance recording MAF values IAT before and after 
-Are you using a velocity stack or the filter alone is mounted on MAF housing? 

If you read my post, the intake temp at the filter does very little (if anything at all) to the IAT recorded inside the manifold by the sensor. After the air is compressed and then intercooled the difference in air that the motor see is negligible at best. The engineers didn't build anything in the intake with all out performance in mind, they had to do a balancing act between noise, packaging, cost, and performance. Listen to the old cats and concentrate your efforts on flow. 

*With my shielded setup, the filter was sealed from engine bay temp and feeding from a sizable hole, hacked on the side of the fender panel. Still, the lower temp of the air ingested didn't quite impact things by the time it reached the motor, with back-to back- to back testing on the same day. 
*


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Chuck, the open filter didn't make you lose 2 psi (I am sure of it).


 Max, this is a classic example of why I don't post in the 1.8T forum anymore. People are so convinced by internet theories and repeated assumptions that they don't listen to people that actually know. Nevermind the guys who have tested, documented, and proved what works, or the guys that have advanced training in fundamentals of engines and experience with simulations and then comparing those simulations to real world results, trust the "engineers" at Neuspeed that have *sold* thousands of intakes with heatshields. The ones doing the selling definitely have your best interest in mind. The whole thing is a 50/50 split of :banghead: and :laugh:.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

20v master said:


> Max, this is a classic example of why I don't post in the 1.8T forum anymore. People are so convinced by internet theories and repeated assumptions that they don't listen to people that actually know. Nevermind the guys who have tested, documented, and proved what works, or the guys that have advanced training in fundamentals of engines and experience with simulations and then comparing those simulations to real world results, trust the "engineers" at Neuspeed that have *sold* thousands of intakes with heatshields. The ones doing the selling definitely have your best interest in mind. The whole thing is a 50/50 split of :banghead: and :laugh:.


 Oh believe me, I know. In the tech section, I get into all kind of battles and questioning from people who are actually clueless about the topic in hand. Just a few days ago, I was called an idiot by an individual, just because my detailed explanation of the working of a DV didn't sit well with what was programmed in his brain. Yet, in that very same thread they are praising the "Madmax DV". I get ridiculous stuff "like Madmax who used to post here would prove you wrong" or people arguing with me about my own credentials or mods done to my own car. However, that doesn't stop me from posting because there are people who learn from it and appreciate. Don't get me wrong, I get frustrated at times (that mega FrankenTurbo thread got me considering never posting there anymore several times) but you can't go by the negatives, as long as there is still some positives left.


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## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

HAHA you proved your self wrong and right at the same time.. Did you end it with a "dude do you know who I am?"


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

OMG lol IMO IT JUST SOUNDS GOOD i did not notice any gain or loss with this mod but it sounds awesome. its nice to hear your turbo spool up :laugh:


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> I did the same thing yesterday. Took my heat shield out today and added the two brackets I fabricated for it, then painted it flat black. Installing the heat shield, some of the paint got scratched off since I didn't let it sit for an entire day first, but the tiny scratches dont bother me. Looks good, but I believe it hinders the performance of the turbo.... unlike stock intake design. Love the sound though :thumbup:
> 
> Stock air box
> 
> ...


 so all total what did it cost ya?


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Marcus, 

The intake was the only variable changed. I can swear there's a 2psi drop since the very first day I drove it after the swap. I'm not using anything to do with the MAF sensor and I doubt my boost gauge altered itself. Yes, I am sure I am pulling through the same gears. 2nd I'd always get 10psi and 3rd I'd get 12.5psi but now I get 10psi in both. I'm eyeballing it, but there is a big difference on my gauge between 10 and 12 that's hard to mistake. You're either on 10 or you're halfway to 15, and now I'm always on 10. 


I value all of the information and documentation you have given, although I simply have no other explanation for my car so I'm sticking to the obvious one until I can prove otherwise. I'll be testing it top find out what the problem may be. Tomorrow I'm putting the old intake back on and seeing if I go back up to 12.5psi or not  Will report my findings 





tavern, I made it under $95 :beer: 

$12 for the 2.75" to 3" reducer coupler 
$39 for the K&N filter 
$20 for the velocity stack adapter 
$5 for the rivets 
$7 for the metal heat shield 
$8 for the SAI filter breather 
$2 for some rubber hose 
$1.18 for the paint for the heat shield 

Full day of labor designing the heat shield, tweaking it, and learning some simple metalworking in the process


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Pressure test and look for leaks. You might have knocked something loose, or just developed a leak from degrading crap hoses. This might be the cause of your performance loss. I'm with 20V and Max, your theory holds no water.


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> Marcus,
> 
> The intake was the only variable changed. I can swear there's a 2psi drop since the very first day I drove it after the swap. I'm not using anything to do with the MAF sensor and I doubt my boost gauge altered itself. Yes, I am sure I am pulling through the same gears. 2nd I'd always get 10psi and 3rd I'd get 12.5psi but now I get 10psi in both. I'm eyeballing it, but there is a big difference on my gauge between 10 and 12 that's hard to mistake. You're either on 10 or you're halfway to 15, and now I'm always on 10.
> 
> ...


 :thumbup: good idea


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## babarber (Nov 3, 2008)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> Marcus,
> 
> The intake was the only variable changed. I can swear there's a 2psi drop since the very first day I drove it after the swap. I'm not using anything to do with the MAF sensor and I doubt my boost gauge altered itself. Yes, I am sure I am pulling through the same gears. 2nd I'd always get 10psi and 3rd I'd get 12.5psi but now I get 10psi in both. I'm eyeballing it, but there is a big difference on my gauge between 10 and 12 that's hard to mistake. You're either on 10 or you're halfway to 15, and now I'm always on 10.
> 
> ...


 the way boost control works if a variable made the turbo recieve less air the turbo would just be forced to work harder to make the same boost but it would make the same boost unless you had something like a leak causing you to loose that boost whether you have stock intake or a velocity stack your boost wont change even though your airflow numbers might


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> Marcus,
> 
> The intake was the only variable changed. I can swear there's a 2psi drop since the very first day I drove it after the swap. I'm not using anything to do with the MAF sensor and I doubt my boost gauge altered itself. Yes, I am sure I am pulling through the same gears. 2nd I'd always get 10psi and 3rd I'd get 12.5psi but now I get 10psi in both. I'm eyeballing it, but there is a big difference on my gauge between 10 and 12 that's hard to mistake. You're either on 10 or you're halfway to 15, and now I'm always on 10.
> 
> ...


 any update?


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Tropical storm hitting Florida. I'm not going to do anything until it passes


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> 2nd I'd always get 10psi and 3rd I'd get 12.5psi but now I get 10psi in both.


 So you lost boost only in 2nd gear, but not 3rd? What about 4th-6th? Sounds like you're making conclusions on limited info. You need to datalog, which if you did I bet you'd see an increase in the MAF readings, albeit slight since you are only running stock boost levels.


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

That is exactly what I did. It's galvanized metal from Home Depot that I bent into shape for a heat shield. Make sure you scuff up the metal before you bend it and cut it (if you get galvanized) so that the paint will stick to it after. Not fun trying to scuff the insides of corners 





20v master,

Before making the intake change I would always get 10psi through 2nd gear and 12.5psi through 3rd gear. After putting on the K&N I still get 10psi through 2nd but I'm only getting 10psi through 3rd as well. I think it's the way Unitronics Stage1+ works is it gives you less psi in the lower gears and gives you full boost when you're in the higher gears. I have had a boost leak BEFORE this and still have the same leak AFTER this. My PCV is busted wide open. When my Home Depot gets a new shipment of 1/4" inline air pump filters I will be able to get to work on my destroyed PCV and find out if there are any other leaks. I *should* be getting 20psi from my turbo.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> 20v master,
> 
> Before making the intake change I would always get 10psi through 2nd gear and 12.5psi through 3rd gear. After putting on the K&N I still get 10psi through 2nd but I'm only getting 10psi through 3rd as well. I think it's the way Unitronics Stage1+ works is it gives you less psi in the lower gears and gives you full boost when you're in the higher gears. I have had a boost leak BEFORE this and still have the same leak AFTER this. My PCV is busted wide open. When my Home Depot gets a new shipment of 1/4" inline air pump filters I will be able to get to work on my destroyed PCV and find out if there are any other leaks. I *should* be getting 20psi from my turbo.


 So basically you have huge issues and are blaming a boost loss, that only happens in one gear, that you aren't logging and only going off your gauge, on an intake style change? Either way, that's not just Unitronics, that's how all turbo cars work. It takes load (resistance to acceleration) to build boost. First gear accelerates a lot quicker than 2nd, so you have less load because you're accelerating more. The higher the gear, the more the load. You don't make full load in lower gears. Real turbos, aka not K0 anything, won't reach target boost in first gear at all. This is why you can't make 25 psi with a WOT box, because the drivetrain isn't engaged and isn't trying to move the car. As for your theories on intakes, fix the rest of your system, then start forming conclusions.


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

any one notice any performance gain ?


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Got my PCV fixed. No more boost leak and so the intake isn't disturbing my car at all like it was doing with the PCV broken. With the massive leak before the intake was just making more sound and a little less power for unknown reasons. If you want to test it, break your PCV and try with your stock intake. See which one you get more psi with  


No more power loss. Love the sound and the look :thumbup:


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## peter139 (May 4, 2005)

Better to place a bigger intercooler for lower intake temperatures. 
I think heatshields don't make any sense on turbo cars. The difference in the intake temperature is so small. 

Last week i made also my own heat shield. Without velocity stack. 

http://i49.tinypic.com/dwfcza.jpg 

Didn't notice any performance at all...


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

No logs / no dyno numbers / no time slips = "F" in practical science experiment. 


You need 

1. Hypothesis 
2. Experiment 

3. Control 

4. Data: Confirm or refute. 

5. Conclusion 


42 DD did this and proved the power gains. If I am ever down in your neck of the woods, I will be more than willing to show you what $$ and proper testing does to your TT. Marcus and 20v also know this very well.


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Put my stock airbox back on. After running with a lean engine code on and off for a month I put the original intake with "snorkel" back in and the car no longer has any codes. It runs smoother now and there is no more loss of power in the higher band RPM that it was most recently doing (hope sh*t doesn't break later). Wont be putting my custom intake back on unless I get a tune requiring more air than a stock intake can provide.


3" intake no good for a stock 180q on a Uni 1+ tune.


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