# 2.0T FSI / 2.0TFSI / 2.0 TFSI - Common problems



## S4fanq (Dec 28, 2012)

The engine is strong and a durable design, but if this engine is serviced by VAG recommended service interval and with VAG recommended oil there is a high risk for a number of problems and engine failure in time.

In FSI engines, it is especially important that only run the engine on synthetic oil and the best quality. Otherwise you risk the intake valves will be clogged with soot and oil deposits, and other problems....




1. - Engine oil - 2.0T FSI has several design weaknesses and if the car has been run according to the oil VAG recommend combined with the long service intervals is a high risk of abnormal wear because of poor lubrication, and ultimately risk of serious damage and repair costs.

*OBS - Most of this problems can be avoided just by change the oil more frequently, and recommend 10W-40 oil instead of 0W- or 5W- oil for better lubrication by far*

You need to change the oil in max 5000 km interval and the engine will be durable far much better, but the best is to choose a good 10W-40 fully synthetic oil instead then lubricated chains, chain tensioners and other parts much better (stronger oil film) and also get a better oil pressure in all situations and can smoothly run 10 000-15 000 km between oil changes.
It occurs otherwise abnormal wear on some parts which mainly becomes vulnerable and problems with oil pressure for chain tensioners that do not manage to keep the chain tenced in certain situations, for example in an sharp downshift (inward run) where it sometimes occurs a sudden strong speed increase and "untenced" chains will expose structure for "shocks" when the chain tensioner does not have time to tension the chain properly, and then tear the whole structure abnormal, this is a general problem with many modern engine designs.

0W or 5W oil is very thin as a base oil, and it is the additives in the oil that makes oil changes viscosity when it gets hot (becomes thicker) and therefore additives wear faster with a thin base oil and is more or less without function after about 4000-5000 km.
But it works well if you change the oil after 4000-5000 km because after that the oil is like "water" and the oil will not simply (lubricating film) lubricate good enough but resulting in excessive wear, general problem in many cars today. Up to each one what you choose to do?

Note. Replacing the oil filter requires a special tool otherwise the oil filter housing will easaly crack which is made of plastic.





2. - Balance Shafts failure (Balance Shaft Sprocket) - Oil pump failure (Hex Shaft 77 mm)

Google search "Audi 2.0TFSI Balance shaft sprocket" alt "Audi 2.0 TFSI Oil pump failure" alt "Audi 2.0 TDI Oil pump failure"

*Warning, danger of serious damage to the engine, when this happens the oil pump will stop and total loss of oil pressure and you only have A FEW SECONDS to stop the engine when the oil pressure lamp lghts up before severe engine failure damage occure !!*


There are 5 different versions of the Balance shaft design but there is only 3 of them that will cause problems:



1. - 2005 - 2006 This version that was chain driven and where the sprocket for the balance shaft with builtin shockabsorber often fails, and when that happens the oil pump will also stop because it is driven by the same chain (from crankshaft to balance shaft to oil pump and back 
to the crankshaft).

** OBS - When that happens the oil pressure will fail and you have to stop the engine immediately in a few seconds before the engine will be destryed or at best suffer severe damage **

This engine features two balance shafts that is installed along the bottom of the engine oil pan and rotate in an oil bath. It is chain driven from the crankshaft and also drives the oil pump and since the sprocket to the balance shafts are subjected to great stress (at rapid speed changes) they have built a "shock absorber" in the sprocket is only about 7 cm in diameter and consists of two parts with springs and small pdetails, the problem is that they fell apart under the stress arising from the rapid speed changes and raging (fall apart), often the chain tensioner worn and the smallest piece of plastic on chain tensioner come off and fall between the chain and sprocket resulting in the sprocket will fail..



How to fix this DIY:

Many people only buy a new balance shaft sprocket and chain tensioner and cutting gear to the balancer shafts to completely disconnect the balance shafts and then the load or stress on this sprocket will disappear and the solotion is permanent - Simple and inexpensive solution.
Search on Youtube - "Poor man's balance shaft 07 deleted Passat 2.0T FSI" or "VW Audi 2.0T FSI balance shafts disabled" 

Google search - "2.0T FSI Balance shaft sprocket" alt "2.0 TDI Balance shaft sprocket"

There are lots of detailed topics and job descriptions online. - Clearly the simplest and cheapest solution 
Today there are also an solid/massive sprocket available on the internet (UK manufactured) without the shock absorber, but then you MUST disconnect the balance shafts to cut down the extra load because the shock absorber are missing.

Old construction (search article numbers):
06B115130C - Chain Tensioner
06F105243C - Balance Shaft Sprocket (Original)

"ETKA Online"

Old construction:
http://www.oemepc.com/audi/part_sin...249/hg_ug/115/subcategory/115025/part_id/2749

13/lang/e

Part.No: 
06B115130C - Chain Tensioner
06F105243C - Balance Shaft Sprocket (Original)





2. - The later TDI engine has another design, still chain driven but only between the crankshaft and balance shaft, the chain and sprocket are often exposed for abnormal worn and fail because of insufficient lubrication (way to thin oil) and need to be replaced.

In this design the problem is the hex shaft that drives the oil pump from one balance shaft are not centered properly and have not optimal engagement of the balance shaft that drives the oil pump and may cause problems with the drive to the oil pump failure (oil pressure loss).
But there is an updated Hex Shaft.
On the updated Hex Shaft has moved the intervention of the drive further into the balance shaft from 77 mm to 100 mm, which is no longer available by VAG dealer but are still available on internet.

Google search: "Audi 2.0 tdi oil pump repair kit" adn will include crankshaft sprocket, balance shaft sprocket, chain, tensioner, and option alsp the updated Hex Shaft for the oil pump (critical to be replaced).
This is a lot of work because the the timing belt must came off and the sprocket on the crankshaft and chain need to be replaced.


Hex Shaft:

Part.No: 03G115281E "Follower" - Look on the internet for the updated version Google search "03G115281D"

http://www.oemepc.com/audi/part_sin...454/hg_ug/115/subcategory/115015/part_id/2749

13/lang/e#sec_25





3. - The later updated design has only gears between the crankshaft and balance shaft and will be durable, but still the same problem with the Hex Shaft that drives the oil pump that, in this case you will only need to lower the engine oil pan and replace the stock 77 mm Hex Shaft to an updated 100 mm Hex Shaft.
But to be available to lower the oil pan you need to lift the engine and at the same time lower the front wheel suspension subframe by losen the front bolts and leave it "haning" on the rear bolts, then it is possible to get the oil pan out.

http://www.oemepc.com/audi/part_sin.../115/subcategory/115051/part_id/274913/lang/e

Part.No: 03G115281E "Follower" - Look on the internet for the updated version Google search "03G115281D"

New gear (gear) 
03G103305C - 


*** OBS - Cars manufactured after 2009-10-17 have the updated Hex Shaft stock mounted. ***





Note: Some owners have made an 1.8T oil pump conversion, but some says that then you also need to change the oil filter housing bacause the oil pressure overflow valve need to be bigger when 1.8T pump has larger pump capaciyt?, i have not veryfied this information and have no idea if this is true..??
Anyway this solution involves a lot of work but can be an alternative (need to replace the crankshaft chain, other length) - Google search: 

"1.8T oil pump conversion"







3. - Sleeve for Fuel Pump - Keywords in Google "Audi 2.0TFSI Fuel pump cap" or "Audi 2.0TFSI HPFP cap"

(High Pressure Fuel Pump) - At the back of the cylinder head, the fuel pump (high pressure) mounted and there is a little "steel sleeve" that runs on the cam shaft for driving the pump, it becomes frayed sleeve destroyed even the rear of the camshaft that drives the pump - should be checked.



4. - Camshaft chain and chain tensioner at the rear of the cylinder head - engine has timing belt, but at the rear of the engine it is a transmission chain in which one camshaft 1 drives the camshaft 2 via a chain, this chain tensioner can fail due poor lubrication and should be checked and recommend replace the chain tensioner preemptively if it is worn.

(Plastic parts / slide rails on the tensioner) because of the chain fails the camshaft 2 will stop and cause severe engine damage.



5. - Audi 2.0TFSI PCV valve for crankcase ventilation - Keyword Goggle "Audi 2.0TFSI PCV Valve" - ​​is a valve between intake manifold and cylinder head that regulates the positive / negative pressure / vacuum in the crankcase ventilation system that often puts back, then stuck it in the "pressure situation" with elevated crankcase with extremely high oil consumption as a result, also increased "cox/burned oil clogged/oil sludge" build up in the intake above the intake valves.



6. - FSI Carbon/oil sludge build up above intake valves (soot and oil deposits) - Keywords on Google - "2.0T FSI Intake Sludge"

2.0T FSI direct injection engine wherein fuel is injected directly into the combustion chamber under high pressure (about 100 bar) like a diesel engine on a standard injection engine, fuel is injected into the intake above the valves and intake and valves when continuously purified of the fuel that is injected.
FSI engines have problems with the emergence of slag formation of soot deposits and "sludge / coxar again" in the intake ducts above the intake valves, sometimes so much that they lose power and go bad and need to be cleaned.

The intake manifold must be removed and by hand mechanical process to removes all deposits (there are threads about it), larger engines (V8, V10) seems to have more problems than the smaller engines but is only one opinion for what is written on the web?



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1. Why do car manufactures recommend so thin motor oil?

Answer: Because they then protect against engine damage if customers start and drive the car hard direct at the severe cold, cold engine and engine oil, motor oil with higher viscosity (thicker), the hard driving directly when the engine is very cold could cause engine failure in severe cold due that the oil does not reach all lubrication points in small 
channels, the worst affected are con rod bearings (connecting rods to the crankshaft bearings), such a thin oil 5W means that the base oil is very thin and it is additives in the oil that makes it thicker when the oil is hot (30W).
The problem is that the additives wear out after approximately 3000-5000 km because it takes a lot of additives to obtain a thin oil become thick as the range or "distance" of the base oil viscosity and 30W are much larger when compared to a 10W-40 oil (low viscosity of the base oil).

After 4000-5000 km is a 0W- or 5W- oil as thin as water constantly and the oil film then is so thin that it fails to lubricates timing chains, guide rails, slide rails enough and abnormal wear and often with engine damage as a result.

Another big reason is that with thin oil becomes less friction in the engine (easier), and draw slightly less fuel and then get something better exhaust values ??(environmental classification and emission values).



2. Why do car manufacturers such long service intervals with so-called "Long Life Oil"?

Answer: Car manufactures want to get the car approved in a higher environmental class = selling point, most people who have knowledge of motors do not drive the car further than 10000 - 15000 km between oil changes if you also still run on light oil (as they recommend) you should never run more than the maximum of 5000 km and it lubricates still not enough, but is almost as "Water" when you drop out of it.
It is also about how the car is driven, long driving (commuting) keeps the oil longer, shorter distances, change frequently, hard driving, change frequently.
I recommend running on a good fully synthetic 10W-40 oil, for example, "Q8 SBK Racing 10W-40" and possibly run thinner oil only the coldest period of the year (minus degrees below -5), then run 10W-40 the rest of the year, but is absolutely not necessary if running easy or normal during the warm up.


3. Why you should never change the oil in the automatic transmission called "Lifetime oil"?
Answer: The same reason, to get the car approved in a higher environmental class, you should ideally change the oil after about 30000 km, or at least after 50000 mkm, especially the heavier stronger luxury cars or else wear the tranny out prematurely.





Description Oil film:

The main reason for most of the problems due to the recommended oil only manage to lubricate the engine's vital parts well enough that are pressurized with oil pressure (full film lubrication) with hydrostatic or hydrodynamic lubrication which means that the oil keeps moving parts separated from each other and it is the engine oil lubricating film which is really the "bearing".

The problem is that the oil is too thin viscosity (how "thick" or "viscous" oil is) is that the parts that are not pressurized but lubricated with "splash lubrication" such as Ktiming chains, slide rails, guide rails and similar structures where oil film building up because oil is sprinkled on the parts and is dependent on the so-called Boundary lubrication not lubricated enough good because the lubricating film is too thin / weak and under load from the gears, chains etc. fails to maintain lubricating film without "breaks through" 
the lubricating film and friction occurs when the metal makes contact against the metal with abnormally high wear as a consequence.

The "red thread" is short for excessive wear and if all motorists used the good synthetic motor oil with higher viscosity of the base oil 10W- instead 0W- or 5W- and shorter service intervals we would avoid many of the known problems with engine damage and damage to the engine and not have to be affected by the expensive engine repairs to 
damaged timing chains constructs with the drive and tensioner etc.

** Note that this is a general problem in many cars where some models affected more than others depending on construction **


Make automakers 'wrong' ?, - We can have many opinions about this but there is big money involved and they protect their interests and are controlled by the game rules of competitive bidding. 

The solution must be that we car owners themselves first of all become aware of the problem (take a position on it) and completely simply replace the oil ourself between car manufacturers established "Service Intervals", or better yet change oil i after 4000 km with 10W-40 oil, and after that by 10000 km interval so we avoid expensive and unnecessary repairs.

Think that all car owners have the right to be informed about the problems and can themselves decide it, and hope this means that in all cases, some car owners to be able to avoid unnecessary problems and costs.


Search Google - "VAG 503.00" or "VAG 503.00"


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