# CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST!



## SaabFan (Mar 23, 2001)

First, a quick note to newcomers:
*VW has NO plans of creating a new Corrado. If you've seen "concept" photos floating around the net, they're FAKE.*
Sorry for the harsh tone, but we get plenty of threads from people asking about "the new Corrado," which doesn't exist in real life.
Another note - this thread was started to collect photos and mod lists, check here if you want to find out about other user's cars: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1237305

Back to the FAQ:
The intentions behind creating this FAQ are twofold: 1) to provide basic information to newcomers so that they can ask informed questions, and 2) to provide a reference source for common information to the regulars.
If you have a question that you think is common, or if you're new and need some background info about Corrados in general, please spend a few minutes looking through this FAQ.
*THE FAQ TABLE OF CONTENTS:*
*General Corrado topics:*
-Buying a Corrado - what to look for, how much they're worth
-1.8t Conversions
-Tinting your tail lights, Aftermarket tails
-Euro lights
-Sunroof Problems, Fixes, etc.
-Dyno results with various modifications
-Body kits
-Suspension Modifications
-Putting a vr6 into a g60 Corrado, and swapping other parts between the two models
-Carbon fiber hoods
-Oil and water temps, causes of abnormal temps and fixes
-List of tuners and parts sources for OEM and aftermarket parts
-Jacking up a Corrado, and placement of jack stands
-Gear ratios and tranny swaps from other cars
-Storing your car for the winter
-ABS repair and diagnostics
-FPR's - how they work
-Custom interior work
-What to do if your passenger's side footwell gets wet when it rains
-Timing chains and clutch install on a VR6 Useful for g60 cars, too - gives instructions for removing the tranny.
Audi A4/A6 door handle how-to
-Corrado drivability troubleshooting tips
-Corrado recall information
-MFI and MFA
*g60 topics:*
-G60 Rebuilder Ratings (from the g60 forum)
-Rebuilding the g60 Charger
-BOV's, the boost return hose, and related topics
-Turbo conversions for the g60 Corrado
-16v g60 Information
-Checking the boost on your MFA, What boost you should have with different pullies, etc.
-Overview of g60 modifications
-4 lug to 5 lug conversion (ie, swapping the 5-lug setup from the SLC on to a g60)
-Removing the g60 charger
-Automatic to Manual transmission conversions
-Removal of the bumper and stock intercooler
-Motor mount options - OEM and aftermarket
-Exhaust systems
*vr6 topics:*
-12v VR6 Forum FAQ (Lots of good info!)
-Headgasket problems and fix info
-Cooling system problems and coolant info
-Timing chain, guides and tensioners
-Chips for the vr6 engine
-SLC Air Conditioning Information
-How-to Guide: Replacing vr6 timing chains

*Image Hosting!*
One of our forum members, SLCorrado, has been cool enough to set up an image hosting site for us to use. The address is www.hostdub.com - go there and check it out if you are looking for a place to host images for posting on these forums!
-Nate

_Modified by vw mofo at 7:01 AM 3-22-2004_


_Modified by yellowslc at 8:41 AM 2-8-2009_


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## SaabFan (Mar 23, 2001)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

To start things off on the right foot, here are some threads about buying a Corrado, problems to look for when buying one, and/or what forum members think of specific cars for sale that people are considering:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=516340
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=504786
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=499472
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=474229
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=465765
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=451468
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=449434
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=439898
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=429406
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=419268
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=395876
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=389417
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=387373
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=375510
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=351040
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=317871
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=282238
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=212961
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=202858
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=187410
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=179771
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=177227
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=175516
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=166679
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=168534
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=163526
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=161742
-Nate


[Modified by SaabFan, 12:45 PM 10-28-2002]


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## SaabFan (Mar 23, 2001)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

And here are some threads about doing a 1.8T conversion:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=305211 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=267235 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=259931 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=240760 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=208339 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=169207 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=123498 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=252140 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=245933 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=234350 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=159605 
-Nate


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## SaabFan (Mar 23, 2001)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

Here are some about rebuilding the g60 charger, where you should or shouldn't get it rebuilt, why or why not to rebuild it yourself, what parts should or shouldn't be used, how much a rebuild costs, etc:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=542088
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=459731
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=421076
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=417929
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=405252
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=402143
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=403311
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=384754
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=372922
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=359706
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=373080
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=354762
Those were all from in here (Corrado Forum.) The ones below are from in the g60 forum, and may (or may not I suppose) be a bit more helpful and technical in nature:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=539589
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=532459
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=536081
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=531031
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=505989
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=500597
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=494430
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=473657
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=461342
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=446959
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=429062
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=418383
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=402844
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=357864
-Nate


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## SaabFan (Mar 23, 2001)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

Threads about tinting your tail lights - what kind of spray paint people have used, different techniques, colors, etc. Also, a few threads about aftermarket tail lights:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=541790
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=238990
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=489231
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=392694
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=320645
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=273342
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=234033
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=184140
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=502751
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=451791
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=365543
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=327158
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=260843
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=249065
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=211095
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=144461
-Nate


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## SaabFan (Mar 23, 2001)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

Some info for the g60 people: info on installing BOV's, removing the boost return, and related topics. Note that I tried to pick threads related to stock g60 setups, not turbo conversions:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=542007
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=542386
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=541973
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=535621
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=534385
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=446418
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=343170
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=392229
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=260628
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=240624
-Nate


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## SaabFan (Mar 23, 2001)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

And now some threads on turbo conversions for the g60. Included are a few "should I stay with the g60 or go turbo?" type threads:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=332904
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=264736
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=250746
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=247691
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=247713
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=245512
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=134146
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=131727
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=126860
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=130809
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=122300
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=120356
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=120058
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=116052
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=118402
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=117452
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=114050
-Nate


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## SaabFan (Mar 23, 2001)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

Some g60 16v threads. Mostly on converting a stock g60 (8 valve) engine to 16v, but some info on more wild stuff - using g60 management on 16v engines for turbo applications, etc.
First, here's a link to a Yahoo group with lots of info on 16vG60's.
Second, OttawaG60 has a very good How-To page about the conversion.
Third, here are some archived threads:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=537957
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=234203
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=267651
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=255858
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=240902
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=126885
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=126885
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=125355
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=119808
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=262740
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=248538
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=241513
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=119669
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=116957
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=120457
-Nate


[Modified by SaabFan, 8:28 AM 11-14-2002]


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## SaabFan (Mar 23, 2001)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

Eurolights (aka European-spec headlights, e-codes, whatever) info. Including some info on wiring harnesses for them or for stock lights:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=471726
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=544672
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=523780
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=521749
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=521892
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=486722
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=481693
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=363498
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=470366
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=402370
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=365514
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=270101
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=193687
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=142645
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=129243
-Nate


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## SaabFan (Mar 23, 2001)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

Sunroof problems, fixes, replacing the sunroof with Passat moonroof, etc.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=566914
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=537488
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=531543
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=451908
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=516579
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=511836
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=490407
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=483297
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=476518
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=469439
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=467198
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=453673
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=425949
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=432836
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=440025
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=446953
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=421617
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=411930
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=406959
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=406427
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=389938
-Nate


[Modified by SaabFan, 3:36 PM 10-31-2002]


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## SaabFan (Mar 23, 2001)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

Checking the boost on your g60 using the MFA, how much boost you should be making with X size pulley, installing a boost gauge, boost leaks, etc:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=415154
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=414739
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=383609
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=386183
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=376431
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=366139
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=332417
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=340114
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=413971
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=384312
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=379846
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=353955
-Nate


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## SaabFan (Mar 23, 2001)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

Some threads where users have posted dyno results or scans of dyno graphs. These posts are an excellent source of info if you're wondering how much power you'll make with certain modifications.
For the g60 engine:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=182705
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=121754
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=479629
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=477154
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=470545
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=460409
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=448017
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=444568
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=373481
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=372273
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=365680
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=232733
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=200800
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=118881
And a special g60 dyno run thread:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=305302 

Now for the vr6 engine:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=450752
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=458335
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=450997
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=441960
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=437679
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=429542
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=400184
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=415426
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=396616
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=397869
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=374367
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=343173
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=313839
-Nate


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## SaabFan (Mar 23, 2001)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

mack73's post about body kits:
quote:[HR][/HR]There are basically 9 companies making 12 front bumpers to choose from, they are 1. ABD/Erebuni/Oettinger, 2. Dietrich, 3. Mattig, 4. Rieger GTB, GTS, R-RS and GTO styles, 5. Zender, 6. Kamei, 7. Seidl, 8. Lumma, 9. RS
1. The ABD/Erebuni/Oettinger are all the same made my different companies- Oettinger made the bumper originally but has since quit, ABD sell one ( http://www.abdracing.com ), also Erebuni sells one- called style 846 ( http://www.groundeffects.com ) 
2, 3 and 4 (R-RS style) are almost identical. The major difference is in the overall height of the bumpers and the fact that the Mattig requires the use of MK3 turns and fogs. The lowest bumper is the Mattig followed by the Rieger, the highest from the ground is the Dietrich. The Dietrich and Mattig are full replacements, whereas the Rieger is an add on to the stock bumper, Also the Rieger is made out of ABS instead of fiberglass like the Dietrich and Mattig. The Dietrich can be bought directly from Germany ( http://www.dietrichtuning.de ) or through distributors in the US. The Mattig and Rieger can be bought through distributors in the US like RPI Equipped ( http://www.rpi-equipped.com ) 
4. Rieger GTB, GTS and the Widebody GTO styles are all available from RPI ( http://www.rpi-equipped.com )
5. The Zender is also not made anymore but a copy can be found from Erebuni, On there website its called style 190 
6. The Kamei Freedom Design Bodykit can be bought from Rocky Mountain Motorworks under the label Aero Kit G60 and Vr6 ( http://www.motorworks.com )
7. The Siedl “Venus” bumper is made in europe by Siedl Tuning and can be bought from their website ( http://www.seidl-tuning.de ). There is a US copy made by e-strictly foreign but all of there stuff is made very badly so stay away from all of there stuff. 
8. The Lumma Bumper. This bumper is also made in europe by Lumma Tuning. It can be purchased from Stroeve Motorsports ( http://www.csi-auto.nl/carshopping/0512 )
9. Lastly the RS bumper, The bumper uses turn signals from A2’s. It can be purchased from TM Tuning ( http://www.tmtuning.com ) 
Now sideskirts, there are basically 7 companies making 10 different sideskirts, 1. The ones that goes with the ABD/Erebuni/Oettinger kit, 2. Rieger R-RS Infinity, GTB, GTS, GTO, 3. Custom ones made by Zarman on Vortex,. 4. Zender, 5. Kamei, 6. Seidl, 7. Lumma 
1. The ABD/Erebuni/Oettinger ones can be bought from the sites previously given
2. The Rieger sides can be bought from the previously listed site
3. Zarman's custom ones can be bought from his site ( http://www.lunchbox3.com/shop/ ) 
4. Zender sideskirts can be bought from the previously listed sites
5. Kamei sideskirts can be bought from the previously listed sites
6. Seidl sideskirts can be bought from the previously listed sites
7. Lumma sideskirts can be bought from the previously listed sites 
Lastly Rear Aprons, There are 8 companies making 10 different bumper options to choose from The last option requires custom modifications to any US spec front chin spoiler, 1. ABD/Erebuni/Oettinger, 2. Dietrich, 3. Mattig, 4. Rieger GTB, R-RS, GTO, 5. Zender, 6. Kamei, 7. Seidl, 8. Lumma, 9. Some people use a stock chin spoiler as a rear apron 
1. ABD/Erebuni/Oettinger rear bumpers can be found at the sites listed above
2. Dietrich makes a rear bumper, the only modification is a indent for a license plate in the bumper instead of on the hatch, again they can be purchased at the previously site
3. Mattig does the same thing and Dietrich and makes a bumper with an indent for a license plate; The bumper can be purchased at the previous site
4. Rieger GTB, R-RS, GTO Rear bumpers can be purchased from the previously listed site 
5. Zender rear bumpers can be found again at the Erebuni site
6. Kamei rear bumpers can be purchased from the previously listed site
7. Seidl rear bumpers can be purchased from the previously listed site
8. Lumma rear bumpers can be purchased from the previously listed site
9. The Stock chin spoiler takes a lot of custom work; basically it requires cutting the spoiler at the exhaust cut out, and bending the ends to match the contour of the rear bumper. Lastly the ends need to be cut off at the wheel well and end caps glued or plastic welded back on 
Pictures for all of these kits can be found at there respective websites. There are many other sources to purchase these bodyparts, I only supplied one such source
[Modified by mack73, 11:12 PM 10-15-2002][HR][/HR]​


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## SaabFan (Mar 23, 2001)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

VR6 Headgasket issues. Repair procedures, parts lists, photos, etc:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=500251
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=459507
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=454789
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=455944
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=456359
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=418649
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=415157
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=288444
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=266526
-Nate


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## SaabFan (Mar 23, 2001)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

VR6 Coolant issues - leaks, flushing the system, what coolant to use, etc.:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=502269
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=493325
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=495995
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=481542
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=488272
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=484579
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=481042
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=462762
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=433173
-Nate


----------



## SaabFan (Mar 23, 2001)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

VR6 - Timing chain, guides, and tensioners issues:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=499710
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=500208
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=494013
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=488382
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=490454
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=482387
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=447926
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=463354
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=456963
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=440883
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=423952
-Nate


----------



## SaabFan (Mar 23, 2001)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

More VR6 - Chips - who makes em, which chip people like or don't like, where to buy em, what chips work well with certain modifications, etc.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=114299
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=415594
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=258717
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=259943
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=259837
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=253093
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=258387
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=255982
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=252175
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=248256
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=245423
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=243750
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=240794
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=179097
-Nate


----------



## SaabFan (Mar 23, 2001)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

Suspension modifications.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=331230
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=268645
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=260261
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=251266
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=256629
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=248798
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=217989
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=209589
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=188589
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=170564
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=158909
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=140286
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=139058
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=133036
-Nate


----------



## SaabFan (Mar 23, 2001)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (BilingualGringo)*

Threads about swapping a vr6 engine into a g60 Corrado, and swapping other parts back and forth between SLC's and g60's:
Engine swaps:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=431998
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=432279
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=358468
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=347060
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=287837
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=273394
Swapping other parts:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=511986
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=507710
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=502372
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=499371
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=496547
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=489594
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=487564
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=430496
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=377606
-Nate


----------



## SaabFan (Mar 23, 2001)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

Carbon fiber hoods:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=545937
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=515663
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=493463
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=463614
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=433737
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=392177
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=408959
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=359404
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=323047
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=340551
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=300324

-Nate


----------



## SaabFan (Mar 23, 2001)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

Oil and water (coolant) temps - what people are running, and how to diagnose and fix problems with low or high temps:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=566950
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=452834
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=462146
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=403670
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=341174
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=208242
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=432311
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=397382
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=462835
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=469144
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=304532
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=249750
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=345507
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=482367
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=469511
-Nate


----------



## SaabFan (Mar 23, 2001)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

*Updated 12/13/2002*
Modifications for the g60 engine. This is only a basic list of posts discussing common modifications, and is not meant to be exhaustive.
Here's a great post on some "gentle" first modifications for people that want a good bump in power without going all-out:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=565579
And here are some posts on some less common modifications:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=133162
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=325609
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=384778
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=328065
Posts on more common mods:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=230536
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=151529

A few of my own notes:
1) Maintenance before Modification. Making sure your car is in tip-top shape *before* you go throwing modifications at it is very important. If you've got driveability problems and an engine that stumbles (or whatever) and you try to modify your engine for more power, you'll probably be very disappointed.
2) Hang out in the g60 forum. Read old threads. This is probably one of the best ways to get a handle on what's going on in the g60 world, and to get a good feel for what people are doing and what problems they are having.
And here's a basic explanation of the "stage" kits you commonly hear people discuss for the g60 engine.
Stage II:
-ISV reroute or check valve
-68mm pulley for the supercharger
-Appropriate chip
-Low-temp fan switch and check valve
Stage III:
-Same as stage III with (usually) a 260 deg. cam
Stage IV:
-Same, with a 268/260 cam and stage IV chip
Stage V:
Not well defined, usually all of the above and some of the following:
-Larger injectors
-Smaller pulley (62mm, 58mm and so on)
-More aggressive cam
-Porting modifications - head, intake manifold, throttle body, etc.
-Chips with different functionality
In addition, you'll see many people talking about other methods of forced induction on the g60 engine - different superchargers and turbos. Those usually recieve the same modifications as above.
And here's a basic run-down of the modifications listed above:
*ISV reroute or check valve -* not a direct power adder itself, a reroute or check valve is more to be certain that your ISV isn't leaking boost. The reroute kit repositions the tube exiting the ISV such that any leakage is just dumped into the intake piping and thus not lost, and the check valve simply doesn't allow air to flow "backwards" through the ISV. Basically, you need one or the other, not both.
*Low temp fan switch and thermostat -* Used to ensure that your engine does not overheat under the additional stress of power-adding modifications. Note though that it is *very important* to have your cooling system working properly before you throw power parts at your car. You want these parts as insurance, not as band-aids to hide the fact that your cooling system is in bad shape. In fact, there's been some debate as to wether or not you should even use these parts.
*Smaller Supercharger Pulleys -* These are key to g60 performance. Basically, the g60 charger spins at a certain ratio to the crankshaft rpm's, since it is driven off a belt from the crank. So, the size of the pulley on the charger will determine the speed the charger is spun at a given engine speed. So, if you put a smaller pulley on, you'll get a faster spinning charger, which will give you more boost. Basically, pullies are the "boost controller" of the g60 world.
*(Side note about charger reliability!)*But, there are limits. The g60 charger wasn't meant to be spun at crazy speeds, and doing so only stresses an already fragile charger. This has several implications - first off, you shouldn't play with smaller pullies on a charger in unknown condition. Send the charger to a reputable rebuilder and get it checked out *before* you notice signs of failure. BBM, ORZ, and KK all have good reputations.
The classic choice in a small pulley - 68mm - is fine to have on a daily driver car, and if your charger is in good shape and you've got a level head, having one on your car should *not* worry you. However, using pullies smaller than that, or running a 68mm (or even stock) pulley on a charger in unknown condition is just *asking* for trouble unless you know what you're doing.
*Fuel Pressure Regulators -* Without getting into a complicated explanation of how your fueling system works, here's the simplified version - the computer controls the amount of fuel entering your engine by opening and closing the injectors really really quickly. So, in a given amount of time, the injectors will be open for a certain percentage of that time, and closed for the rest of the time. The Percentage that they are open is called the _duty cycle_ and helps determine the amount of fuel that reaches the engine. The other main factor that determines fuel amount is the pressure of the fuel in the fuel rail. The fuel rail is just a fancy plastic pipe that connects the four injectors together. Basically, for a given duty cycle, the higher the pressure, the more fuel will be injected. So, if you increase the fuel pressure, you'll increase the amount of fuel delivered.
It gets a bit more complicated than that, but that's basically the reason why you *need* a fuel pressure regulator (or FPR) upgrade when you do the basic "stage" kits discussed above. The chip(s) you put on your car to provide proper fueling are programmed with certain parameters in mind, and one of those is that there will be a higher pressure fpr on your car! The most common choice for an fpr is a 3.5 bar unit, which is half a bar higher than the stock 3.0 bar unit. Be careful though - there are scads of fpr's from other cars that will bolt on, you need to be sure that you're getting a 3.5 bar unit. For example, a common place that people get these units is from Porsche 944's - but some of those came with the proper 3.5 bar unit, and some came with a 2.5 bar unit.
Another note on fpr's for anyone who's curious. They are rated with a given pressure, but they do not maintain that given pressure in the fuel rail. You'll notice that they have a vacuum line attached to them that runs to the intake manifold. Ever wonder what that was for? Well, inside the fpr is a flexible diaphragm that sees fuel pressure on one side, and manifold pressure on the other side. This side of the diaphragm is spring loaded too, the spring determines the pressure rating. So, on one side of the diphragm you have the spring pressure and the manifold air pressure, and on the other side you have the fuel pressure. As the diaphragm flexes, it sort of uncovers an opening on the "fuel" side running to the fuel return line. (This is hard to explain without a diagram, bear with me!) This flexing is what regulates the fuel pressure - the pump is basically constantly pressurizing the fuel rail, and the diapgragm inside the regulator is flexing under the pressure created by the pump and allowing fuel to return to the tank via the return line. Thus, the pressure reaches an equillibrium where the fuel is returning to the tank at a rate such that the pressure inside the rail is held at a certain value.
Since the "air" side of the regulator is pressurized by the spring and manifold pressure, your fuel rail is pressurized to manifold pressure + the fpr's pressure rating. So, if you're at full throttle and seeing 1 bar of boost (about 14.5 psi) then you're fuel rail will be at 4.5 bar if you have a 3.5 bar fuel pressure regulator.
*ECU Chips -* These are, perhaps, the most important component in the modification process. Re-mapped chips allow your engine's fueling and spark systems to adjust to the higher power your engine will make with other modifications. Choosing the correct chip for your application becomes very important once you've ventured into the more extreme reaches of g60 modifications, but for the "normal" stage kits listed above, there are several good chip choices.
One additional note about chips - a chip should not be thought of as a power-adding modification. Instead, it should be thought of as a way to adjust your engine for other modifications you've made, in order for your car to operate properly and make the most power it can with those modifications.
*Cams -* Swapping to a more aggressive cam is pretty straightforward. One thing to note though is that with some methods of forced induction (turbos especially it seems), the really aggressive cams can make less power, since they allow more blow-by due to higher overlap.
Another note about cams - when you swap cams, it is a very good idea to put new lifters in at the same time. Old, worn lifters will kill a new cam in no time. Also, be sure to follow the installation and break-in instructions that came with your cam.
*Porting work -* Usually done when the normal modifications have all been carried out, porting the head and intake manifold can help to unlock quite a bit of power on the g60 engine. The counter-flow 8 valve head on these engines isn't the best flow-wise, and a correct porting job can work wonders. It is important to get the job done by someone with the knowledge and experience to do it right, though. An incorrect porting job is a waste of money.
*Larger injectors -* Intermittent injectors, like those on the g60 engine, control fuel delivery by opening and closing at a rapid rate. The percentage they are open in a given time interval controls how much fuel is injected. So, in a given second at idle, they may be closed 90% of the time and open only 10%. And, at full throttle and 6k rpm's, they might be open 80% of the time. Basically, when you reach a certain point modification-wise, you'll be cramming so much air into the engine that the injectors can't keep up - even when they are open as much as they can be, they won't be injecting enough fuel. So, the remedy is to swap in higher flowing injectors. When doing this, it is very important to get a chip that is matched to your injector size, otherwise you'll have problems. See section above on fuel pressure regulators for more info on helping your fueling system keep up.
One may venture to ask this question: "When I've reached the point where people are telling me to get bigger injectors, why not just slap on a really high pressure FPR?" And you'd ask that question with good reason - an fpr can be had for $45, while a set of injectors will probably run $100 used, and several times that for a new balanced set. Well, you have to remember how fpr's work - they don't pressurize the rail themselves, they basically just regulate the pressure created by the pump. So, at a certain point, the pump is the limiting factor in the amount of pressure you can have, not the fpr itself. So basically, if you threw a 6 bar FPR on (if you could find one!) then you'd be waaaay over the limits of the pump, and your car wouldn't run as you might expect. It's at this point - when you've got a higher pressure fpr and need even more fuel - that the bigger injectors make sense.
-Nate

[Modified by SaabFan, 8:14 AM 12-13-2002]


[Modified by SaabFan, 4:21 PM 4-17-2003]


----------



## SaabFan (Mar 23, 2001)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

Removing the g60 charger:
Search is down, so at least for now, you're gonna get one of my rambles instead of a list of thread links. I can't remember some of the tool sizes off the top of my head, so if anyone wants to provide that info, let me know.
Most of the reputable rebuilders will help walk you through the charger removal process if you get stuck, but I figured it was a common enough question on here to warrant this topic.
*Tools you'll need:*
-Metric socket set
-Metric hex wrench (aka Allen wrench) socket set
-Rachet or other handle for sockets
-Extensions for the sockets
-Vice grips come in real handy
-A propane torch will come in handy, too
-Other misc. hand tools - screwdrivers, etc.
-Penetrating oil
-Small plastic bags to hold the fasteners and parts you remove
This process may be a bit different than what other people do, but it's the best process I've used. I'll write out instructions as if you've got the stock silencer box and air filter box, so if you have an RSR or similar outlet and/or an aftermarket air filter, you'll have to keep that in mind. (If you don't know what I'm talking about, don't worry. It's no big deal.)
Before you start, (maybe even a day or two before you start) take a few minutes and familiarize yourself with everything in the general area that the charger's in under your hood. Also, if you've got some penetrating oil (WD-40, Break-Free CLP, etc) now's the time to spray a little bit on some of the fasteners that might be stubborn. None of the fasteners you'll be removing are really high-torque items, but some of them have soft heads and can freeze in place, making them easy to strip.
1) First, you have to remove some of the "stuff" around the charger. Undo the hose clamps on the big rubber tube that runs from the silencer box to the first IC tube. The silencer box is the black plastic box on the outlet side (driver's side) of the charger. Now, pull that hose out of the car. Next, disconnect the boost return hose from the driver's side inlet on the charger. This is the smaller hard plastic hose that connects opposite the airbox inlet on the passenger's side of the charger. It is held in place by two small bolts.
2) Now, remove the silencer box. You can remove it as a unit, or you can take the outer half off and then the inner half. There are 4 small bolts holding the halves together, and there's one bolt (14mm I think) holding the inner half to the charger. That bolt gives lots of people trouble since it is kind of buried down inside the silender box, but it's easy if you just take your time and use an extension on your socket.
3) Now to the other side of the charger. First, remove the ribbed plastic hose that runs from the airbox to the charger. Then, remove the stock airbox from the car. This should be pretty straightforward.
4) Next, you need to remove the serpentine belt from your car. This is the wide, flat belt with the ribs on it that runs most of your accesories. There are two ways of removing the belt - you can remove the tensioner and slide the belt off, or you can just cut the belt and pull it out. If the belt is old, just cut it and replace it when you put the charger back in. If you want to save the belt, you'll have to remove the tensioner from the car first. See next step.
5) As the name implies, the tensioner holds the belt under tension. It's that little thing with a spring on it next to the alternator that looks like a mini suspension strut. There's a bolt holding it to the alternator bracket at the top, and a bolt holding it to its pulley bracket at the bottom. Both of these botls run through rubber bushings, so now is a good time to examine the condition of those bushings. Either way, undo one of the bolts and slide the tensioner off to release the belt. Be careful when sliding it off, as it is under quite a bit of pressure.
6) Now it's time to work on the oil lines running to and from the charger. There's a supply and a return line, and they are both held to the charger with banjo bolts. The supply line is on the outlet side of the charger, and the return line is on the bottom of the charger. Remove their banjo bolts and let the lines come free of the charger. Note that when you do this, they're gonna leak some oil (not a lot, but enough to make a mess) so be ready with some rags. Some rebuilders will clean these lines out for you at no charge, so you might want to remove them completely and ship them with your charger. Talk to your rebuilder about this.
7) Now you can work on the actual charger. There are three brackets holding the charger to the engine. First, there's the main aluminium passenger's side bracket that the pulley passes through. Then, there's a smaller aluminium bracket on the driver's side. Finally, there's a single brace under the charger with one bolt on each end. I like to go after that brace first. It's basically a steel tube about 8" long, bolted to the bottom of the charger on one end, and the block on the other. I like to remove both bolts and pull it out of the car to give more manuvering room later on.
8) Now, remove the passenger's side bracket. This is held to the outlet side of the charger with several hex head (allen) bolts, and to the engine with some more allen bolts. Remove all these bolts and pull the bracket out of the car. The bolts holding the bracket to the engine block can strip sometimes, so be very careful when you're doing this. If I don't know the history of the bolts (i.e. wether or not they've been off recently) I like to take my time - hit em with some penetrating oil (ie WD-40), wipe em off, and maybe hit em with the torch a couple times, too. Then, they usually come out easily. There's also a sheet metal shim between this bracket and the charger, be sure you don't loose it when you're removing the bolts or the bracket.
9) Next, remove the bolts holding the charger to the passenger's side bracket. There are 4 bolts, and they are all 5mm hex (allen) bolts. Be very careful with these, as the heads can strip out easily. These are the last things holding the charger to the car, so when you've removed them, the charger should just come right out. Be careful of the radiator, as you can do some bad damage if you bash the charger into it when you're lifting it out.
Installation is the reverse of removal.








Note - As mentioned way up top, this is only one of many methods for removing the charger. The most popular alternate method is to remove the pulley from the charger and leave the driver's side bracket in the car, then wiggle the charger out from between the two brackets. If you've stripped bolt heads on the bolts holding the driver's side bracket to the engine, then this might be your best bet. David from Kompressor Kanada recently told me that they prefer customers follow the above procedure and remove the charger with the pulley intact, to avoid possible damage caused when removing the pulley from the charger mainshaft.
If you want to use this alternate method, follow the steps below before/instead of the last several steps above. Unbolt the pulley from the charger as listed below, then proceed with unbolting the charger from its brackets as listed above.
First the fun part - removing the pulley from the charger. If you've got access to air tools, this will be a snap - just put an impact wrench on the bolt and psssshhht! off it comes. Otherwise, you'll need to exersize some creativity. Here's my method. Take the old serpentine belt (since you were gonna replace it, right?) and loop it around the pulley. Now, where the two ends of the belt come together, pinch them to eachother tightly (right down next to the pulley) with your vice-grips. The idea is to squeeze the belt so tight around the pulley that you can hold the vice-grips and keep the pulley from spinning while you undo the bolt. This is kind of hard to explain, but play with it a bit - you're basically making a home-made strap wrench out of the vice grips and old belt. Anyways, do that and then hold the vice grips to keep the pulley from turning so you can undo the bolt that holds the pulley on.
Now with the pulley bolt off, you can pull the pulley off. This might take some effort, I've come across some pulleys that were stuck on with some sort of loc-tite compound. The pulleys are pretty soft aluminium, and you don't want to wreck it by prying it off, so be careful. This is where the torch will come in handy - heating the pulley up can help release it from the shaft. Just be VERY careful with the torch, and don't set anything on fire or melt anything! And this may seem obvious, but when you heat something up with the torch, don't touch it till it cools down!
After removing the bolts holding the brackets to the charger as listed above, work that sheet metal shim out of the driver's side bracket, and the charger will be pretty loose. You've basically got to wiggle it around enough now to pull it up and out of the car. Be careful of the radiator at this point, as it is easy to smash the charger into it and knick it up pretty bad. Some people have told me they couldn't get the charger out in this manner, which is another reason why the above method is preferrable. I've never had a problem, though it will take some effort.
-Nate


[Modified by SaabFan, 10:06 AM 11-7-2002]


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

Removal of the bumper and removal of the stock G60 IC: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=570336
Jacking up the car and placement of jack stands: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=598926


[Modified by G60ING, 7:30 PM 11-24-2002]


----------



## SaabFan (Mar 23, 2001)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

List of tuners and parts sources:
The list below was compiled from several sources - mostly from threads on these forums discussing where people obtain parts. Note that inclusion in this list does NOT imply endorsement of a particular tuner. Entries in each category will be listed alphabetically by web address. Note that there is a fair amount of crossover between categoties, i.e. some of the companies listed under "Body Kits, Exterior and Interior Modifications" also sell aftermarket or OEM parts, but are listed there because that's what they're better known for.
If you have an addition to make to this list, please let me know! We're trying to provide an exhaustive list of any online tuners or parts sources for Corrado parts.
*OEM/Aftermarket Parts*
http://www.autotech.com
http://www.awe-tuning.com
http://www.dieselgeek.com
http://www.driveshaftshop.com/vwpage.ivnu (Beefed-up driveshafts)
http://www.eurospecsport.com
http://www.eurosportacc.com
http://www.germanautoparts.com
http://www.grparts.com 
http://www.hallmotorsports.com
http://www.kraftswerk.com
http://www.parts4vws.com
http://www.rapidparts.com
http://www.srsvw.com
http://www.tcsn.net/vwpics/parts (VW specialty tools)
http://www.thescirocco.com
http://www.tttuning.com
http://www.turn2usa.com
http://www.vwaftermarket.com 
http://www.vwparts.com
*G60 Tuning and Parts*
http://www.8vturbo.com
http://www.bahnbrenner.com
http://www.gruvenauto.com
http://www.kompressorKanada.ca
http://www.orz-motorsports.com
http://www.snstuning.com
*VR6 Tuning and Parts*
http://www.advancedmotorsports.com
http://www.amimotorsports.com
http://www.evolutionsports.com
http://www.gfcperformance.com
http://www.giacusa.com
http://www.jrcmotorsports.com
http://www.matrixengineering.cc
http://www.schimmelperformance.com
http://www.tracracing.com
http://www.unorthodoxracing.com
http://www.upsolute.com
http://www.vf-engineering.com
*Body Kits, Exterior and Interior Modifications*
http://www.abdracing.com
http://www.csi-auto.nl/carshopping/0512 (Luma Tuning)
http://www.dietrichtuning.de
http://www.groundeffects.com
http://www.2dimensions.com/misc/kits (Vortex user Zarman's site)
http://www.motorworks.com
http://www.rpi-equipped.com
http://www.seidl-tuning.de
http://www.strictly-foreign.com
http://www.tmtuning.com
http://www.volkswagen-car-body-parts.com/
-Nate
(PS - thanks to Greg for help in compiling this list!)


[Modified by SaabFan, 10:24 AM 11-20-2002]


----------



## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

Jacking up the car and placement of jack stands: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=598926
gearing that is available:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=593428
My gear ratio topic:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=152635


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## K3V11N (Aug 15, 2001)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (G60ING)*

Water on the passenger side? Click the link!
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=593931 
Lately there has been lots of people with this problem and this thread helped a lot! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SaabFan (Mar 23, 2001)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

Converting from the 4 lug g60 wheel setup the the 5 lug SLC setup:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=590904
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=571425
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=407866
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=207609
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=184633
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=151614
-Nate


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## SaabFan (Mar 23, 2001)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

Converting an automatic g60 to manual:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=406606
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=370240
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=333442
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=271977
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=215569
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=208954
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=203511
-Nate


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## SaabFan (Mar 23, 2001)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (vdubin90)*

Good topic Greg, especially at this time of year.
I'll add a few more:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=607787 (the one you posted)
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=251644
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=197019
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=136570
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=511563
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=211949
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=133708
-Nate


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

G60 exhaust topics:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=619379
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=609287
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=514472
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=501473
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=261496
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=155827
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=115968


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (vdubin90)*

G60 motor mounts:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=678915
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=660995
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=613280
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=606667
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=560658
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=309720
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=146496


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## R3 (Jan 20, 2002)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (G60ING)*

Q: where can I get gauge overlays?
A: HERE


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## Strictly Gravy (Mar 15, 2003)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (R3)*

Part Number for the battery in the key....
N 903 145 01 = $1.75


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## JustA1s (Sep 21, 2001)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (Strictly Gravy)*

Someone needs to post vacuumm readings at idle for stock cam/ 260 cam/260-268 and so forth- this is something I always forget








also remind people that ignition timing is set to 6deg BTDC http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Strictly Gravy (Mar 15, 2003)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (JustA1s)*

Wheel Offset chart(Thanx to 3 bar)
15x6.5 offset 38
15x7 offset 35
16x7 offset 38
16x7,5 offset 37
17x7 offset 38
17x7.5 offset 37
18x7 offset 38
18x7.5 offset 37
These can by accessed by going to http://www.rimstock.co.uk/rimstockusa/fitementguide and type in Corrado


----------



## SaabFan (Mar 23, 2001)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

*If your passenger's side footwell gets wet when it rains*
As the title implies, this post is meant to help you fix the common problem that leads to passenger side footwells becoming ponds of stale water every time it rains. It's a common problem on Corrados with an wasy fix.
Pop the hood, and find the rain tray - it's that flat-ish "shelf" of sheetmetal under the very back of the hood, where the windshield meets the engine bay.
Next, look around on the passenger's side of the rain tray. There should be a big plastic "mesh" dome covering the entrance to the car's ventilation system - that's where the water is entering your car and causing the footwell to get wet.
Look along the seam where the rain tray meets the body just to the side of that mesh screen. Clean any leaves or debris out of the way from around the screen if any is present. The reason why the water is entering that screen is that the rain tray drain is plugged with debris. The drain is a small opening along that tray/body seam that leads to a short plastic tube that empties in the wheel well area - it's meant to let water drain out of the rain tray, but it gets clogged with debris easily, thus causing water to sit on the rain tray and drain down into the mesh screen into the ventilation system, and eventually down into the wheel well.
So what you need to do next is clean that drain out! People suggest different implements for the cleaning, I've found that a piece of old coathanger wire or some other stiff wire works well. Basically, you just want to run your implement through the hold and tube to shake any debris out.
That's it! Don't forget to clean up the footwell and sop up any puddles down there.
-Nate


----------



## austin neuschafer (Apr 26, 2002)

cheap laternative to paying $100+ for a new oxygen sensor. this trick costs about $40. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=867471 soory link fixed as of 10-01-03


_Modified by austin neuschafer at 11:56 AM 10-1-2003_


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## nemoest (Jan 25, 2000)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

Threads about underhood foam:
Removal:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=922055
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=334245
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=337962
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=313073
Replacement Options:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=352830
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=751693
I'm sure there are many more posts about this topic.
As to its use, that is, and for ever shall be, up to debate.


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## radgti8v (Feb 28, 1999)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (nemoest)*

I need some heater core recall info..Please, my dealer is a pita.
Thanks


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## vw mofo (Mar 5, 1999)

*A/C Information*

*SLC Air Conditioning Information*
So anyways, since I had to figure all this stuff out myself I figured I would share the information for anyone else who may be wanting to get their AC system back up to snuff.
*Part 1, mechanics of how Air Conditioning works. If you understand this it makes figureing out things alot easier. Here we go.*
As you all know your system houses refrigerant (either R12 or R134a). The main items of your system are the compressor, condenser, expansion valve, pressure switch, and evaporator. Basic system operation is as follows. Your compressor compresses the gas refrigerant. As you all know compressing anything creates heat. The hot compressed gas flows into the condenser where it is turned into a hot compressed liquid. From the condensor, the hot compressed liquid flows into the expansion valve where it is converted to an extremely cold un-compressed gas again. It flows through your evaporator (like a heater core) and cools the air. The cold gas is returned to the compressor to repeat the cycle. In order for this to all work, you system must be free of leaks and your pressure switch has to work. The pressure switch is the main key in engageing the clutch on the compressor.
*Part 2, Electronics (Sorry G60 guys this is for SLC's but the same basic principal applies)*
As I mentioned earlier, the pressure switch is the main component to making everything work. As long as there is pressure in your system, the pressure switch will close, if there is too much it will open like a fail safe. Anyways. From your HVAC controls you need to find the trigger wire. On a G60 it is Red w/ Black stripe and on SLC's it is Red w/ Blue stripe. To test to see if your connections are good on an SLC, pull the 4 pin connector on the pressure switch (Pressure switch is located next to the Driver side headlight by the radiator) and check for voltage at the Blue w Red wire. If that has power you at least know the connections and your AC relay are probably good. If not, read this page to figure out the wiring connections at your fuse box.
If you have power at your pressure switch and your compressor clucth still doesn't engage, first make sure it is connected. If it is try bypassing it. To bypass it, use a jumper wire from the blue/red wire to the green/yellow wire. If everything is connected correctly it should engage the clutch. If your clutch engages, you either need more refrigerant or your pressure switch is bad. Good news is that the pressure swicth can be repalced withouth discharging the system if you find out it is bad. If your clucth still does not engage, there is one more test before you can determine if your clutch is bad or not. Jumper the blue/red wire from the pressure switch plug to the solid green wire on your fan control module. This will bypass both the ambient temperature switch and evaporator temperature switch. If your clutch engages, you have a problem with one or both of these temperature switches. The evaporator temperature switch disengages the ac clutch if your evaporator core reaches 34 or less degrees to keep it from freezing. The ambient switch disengages the clutch if the outside temp is 34 or below to keep the compressor from freezing 
The ambient temp switch is the one thats in the rain tray by the ECU. The evaporator switch is inside the car and is attached to the front (towards firewall) side of the blower box and has two small black wires coming from it. You can test both switches simply by testing for continuity. To make sure they are even hooked up at all test for continuity on the green wire at the fan control module and the green/blue (maybe green / black) wire at the ambient temp switch (with the temp sensor unpluged). If you get continuity you need to check your wiring. If no continuity, you need to check each switch individually. The ambient switch is easy. With it disconnected just test for continuity. If it's good, the switch is good, if not, you need a new one. Testing the evaporator switch is the same procedure. Check for continuity across the two black wires coming out of it. If this is bad, you need to replace it, and good luck with that one. The whole blower box has to come out and your AC system will need to be discharged.







If they both get continuiety and you still dont have continuity from the green/blue wire to the green wire on the FCM, you have a wiring issue. If the clutch does not engage there is either a wiring problem or it is bad. I am not sure which wire does what on the compressor, but one of them should be 12v. So if all of this checks out Ok and you don't get 12v to that connector then you have a wiring problem from that connector to the FCM. If you do get 12v then the clutch is definitely bad.
*Part 3 Wiring from the pressure switch.*
The only two you are concerned with to make your A/C work are the blue/red and Green/Yellow. As stated above the blue/red is the trigger from your hvac controls and supplies 12v to the pressure switch. The green/yellow wire heads to the rad fan switch. From there it turns green/white and heads up to the ambient temperature switch. On the other side of the ambient temperature switch it turns green/blue and heads into the dash to connector T4a. From connector T4a it connects to connector T2b which whould have a white/yellow wire and a green wire. These two wires head to the evaporator switch. So, the green blue connects to the white yellow and goes to the evap switch where it turns green and connects to connector T4a. The green wire connects to the FCM and triggers the clutch.
I hope this information will be of help to someone somewhere down the line and if anyone with a G60 wants to contribute, feel free to let me know.


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## CorradoCody (Oct 13, 2001)

*Pep Boys Rally fog light fix*

Here are the links to the popular Rally Fog Light Lens fix, a cheap alternative to buying new fog lights
Rally Fog Light Fix
 Pep Boy Part number
 After Pics 
CC


----------



## A2T (Nov 9, 2000)

*Re: Pep Boys Rally fog light fix (CorradoCody)*

I just took out the trans on my 92 Corrado SLC in order to replace timing chains. Thought Id make a useful post for once, since so many people ask about it. 
This job has alot of overlapping labor. If you are going through this much trouble, you are going to want to replace the following things : 
Must Replace : 
All 3 motor mounts
clutch
flywheel
PP
flush coolant
all tensioners
all rails
oil pan gasket
rear main seal
throw out bearing
oil change
If any of this extra stuff is questionable, now is the time to do it.
Optional Replacement:
upper chains
lower chain
lifters
trans rebuilt
head rebuilt 
block rebuilt 
coolant hoses
better cams, springs, seats ??
Removal:
Remove all the extraneous crap that gets in the way, like both drive axles, all the coolant hoses, the t-stat housing, the EGR stuff, ect... basically anything that prevents a clear shot looking down at the trans. This includes the cable shift mechanism, cable shift bracket, and then clutch slave cylinder. Ofcourse the intake manifold with t-body, air intake boot, and all the little fun stuff behind the intake manifold that make up the clusterf#c/< affectionately called OBD1. Tie all this stuff up and out of the way. Bag and mark EVERYTHING that comes off!
At this point, I borrowed an engine hoist and put it perpendicular to the car on the pass side. This is an important step because you will have to move the engine side to side in getting the trans in and out. Without the hoist, this job would be much more difficult. I positioned the hoist so it was lifting the motor/trans with the trans pointing a little down to ease getting it off and back in. If you really want to move the engine around, it will be necessary to take off the exhaust manifold. I didnt need to do this, but I did point the engine down on the drivers side. Once I took the weight off the mounts, I removed the starter motor completely, remove all the bolts from the rear engine mount, and remove the trans mount steel bracket arm which links the trans mount to the tranny. Alot of people said it was going to be hard to remove the top bolt on the trans mount. I was able to get a 17mm socket on it and loosen it from within the drivers side wheel well. The issue is the power steering lines, these can be slightly pushed away to gain clearance if necessary, just dont mess with them too much. I also removed the front engine mount entirely, with bracket.
The trans mount is the tricky part, once the top vertical bolt is removed, you have 2 more 13mm holding the mount into the subframe, and 3 13mm bolts (2 are long ones) holding the aluminum trans bracket to the trans. Heres the trick - undo the 2 holding the mount into subframe and completely remove the UPPER 2 13mm holding aluminum trans bracket to trans. By some stroke of utter genius, VW decided to screw you (literally) on the bottom 13mm long bolt, as its too long to slide out since it will hit the subframe. What you do is make sure the front and rear mounts are disconnected and motor is completely supported. Wiggle the trans mount up and out of the subframe (will require lifting motor) then rotate it around until it clears the aluminum bracket and it drops out. I recommend throwing it across the garage against the wall. Again, you may have to raise motor slightly to do this. Once the trans mount is out, then you can raise motor until lower bolt of trans bracket clears the subframe where the mount used to be, and out the last bolt comes, along with AL trans bracket. Dont throw this, as it will be reused (and actually is a nice looking piece once its cleaned up).
Still with me? OK, more fun parts. There are 5 bolts holding trans to block. Look for them, they are a combination of 17mm and 19mm bolts, and they are all unique, so dont mix them up! Remove these and mark em.
Once trans is disconnected from block, get the stronger person to lie underneath and grab the bottom of the trans while the other guy pushes the motor pass side. The guy on the bottom can slide trans drivers side to disengage input shaft, then simply tilt trans a little down. Well, maybe not simply, but its easier than an A2 Golf. It may require a little rotating up on the differential, as the drive flange will clip the subframe a little. The more you push motor left, the easier it will come out, just be aware that there isnt much clearance over there. Once its out, its pretty heavy, like 100 lbs. So make sure the guy under the car can support this weight. 
Timing Chains/Guides
Once the trans is off, you might as well replace the plastic guides and tensioners and maybe even the chains that drive the valve gear. My 92 SLC had 100k on the clock and the clutch felt fine, but when I removed the intake mani to get a look I found chunks of tensioners and almost no tension on my chains. This stuff doesnt hold up very well, and Im sure the faster you rev it, the sooner it wears out, since its just plastic pushing on metal.
Apparently VW has updated the design of the chains/tensioners. The older models used a double chain on the cams with an upper tensioner with a phenolic strip riveted to a steel plate. This combination has a groove cut in where a 27mm bolt with a nipple at the end pushes against the tensioner. The new style uses a single upper chain, with an all plastic (as opposed to riveted) upper tensioner with no groove, and a different bolt. This set up is better (keep reading if you want to know why rivets are a bad thing), but Im not sure if you can use the new plastic tensioner and 27mm tensioner bolt on a double chain upper set up. You *might* also have to convert to upper single chain set up, which *might* also mean getting a new sprocket for intermediate shaft and cams. Hopefully someone on vortex can add to this write up. I used the old style, as thats what my VW dealer recommended. If I do all this again in a few years, Im going with the new style.
Remove the pressure plate, clutch disk, and flywheel. Then remove the upper tensioner bolt (27mm), the upper cover, then the lower cover. Mark and bag all this stuff, theres a ridiculous number of 10mm bolts on the lower cover. From here, you need to orient the motor at TDC. This is accomplished by rotating the 27mm crank pulley bolt CLOCKWISE. To align the head, use a VR6 cam ruler (TT sells the metal one you want, and just about every other VW tool out there). The cam ruler will only fit in the slots at the ends of the cam 1 time per revolution, and this is TDC on the head. The crank hits TDC 2 times per revolution, and you can check the Bentley to see the ground tooth on the crank aligns with the split in the crank bearing block at either 9 o'clock or 3 o'clock. Bentley shows the alignment happening at the bearing split on the forward side (9 o'clock) of the crank so thats how I did it. Be careful when rotating the motor without the upper tensioner bolt - have a second person guide the chains to make sure they dont get hung up.
Once the motor is fully aligned, remove upper left guide rail and then intermediate shaft triple gear (15mm). You will need to hold the motor at TDC (and make sure the cam ruler is removed - you dont want to break that thing) and back off the 15mm bolt. Once the 3 gears are off, the upper double chains can come off. Once the chains are off, the upper right tensioner can be removed. There is a little extension of the head gasket that goes between the two chain covers - be careful not to break this, but if you do, you can just use permatex sealer when it goes back together.
As for the lower single chain, this should pretty much come right out now also, once the intermediate gears are removed. Remove the lower left guide rail and lower right tensioner.
Since my guides/tensioners were so badly worn/missing, I decided to remove the oil pan and see what else I could find. This turned out to be a wise choice, as I found a 4" peice of rail in there. I also found the rivets that used to hold the upper tensioner phenolic strip on, and a boat load of ground up plastic wedged into the oil pump pick up screen. I spent the better half of an hour cleaning that screen out - it was like taking all those plastic rails and throwing them in a blender, then pouring them into the oil. After a new oil pan gasket went on, I put the pan back on.
To put the chains/tensioners back on, start with making damn sure the motor is still at TDC. Put the cam ruler back in (rotate each cam a little if needed) then spin the crank around at the pulley end to ensure the ground tooth is aligned with the bearing split (9 o'clock). Do NOT spin either the head or the block independently more than 20 or so degrees in either direction. This is an interference engine, and it is possible to bend valves! From here, reinstall the lower single chain guide rail and tensioner - the new tensioner should come with a small C clip to hold it compressed - leave this C clip on. Now put the single intermediate gear into the chain and slide the gear onto the intermediate shaft. Check the bentley here also, as it shows a good pic of how that intermediate shaft is to be aligned. Basically, the arrow head on sprocket aligns with the line at 12 o'clock on the engine. It can either go at 12 o'clock or 6 o'clock, so look at Bentley for a good pic. Once the lower chain is on, pull that C clip out of the lower tensioner so it can expand against the chain. Install the upper right tensioner, then the double chains, then the upper left guide rail. Take the double sprocket part of the intermediate gear set and put that in the chains such that all the slack is on the tensioner side and the guide rail side is as tight as you can get it. Without moving the intermediate, slip the double gears on aligning with the keyway cut. Then put in the 15mm intermediate bolt, remove cam ruler, and tighten to 74 lb-ft.
Reinstall the upper cover. Then install the 27mm tensioner bolt. Once the upper cover is bolted in place with the upper tensioner on, all chains should be tight. Rotate the motor 2 complete revolutions CLOCKWISE and then reinstall the cam ruler and verify the crank is also at TDC. Repeat this procedure as many times as it takes to get the motor aligned at TDC. Verify the chains are on correctly, say 3 Hail Mary's, replace the rear main seal, and then reinstall the covers. 
Clutch installation:
I went with an Autotech LFW, which weighed 9.33 lbs versus the OEM at 14.58 lbs. I also installed the TURN2 crank pulley, which weighed 1.33 lbs versus the OEM 6.70 lbs. Make sure the clutch contact surfaces on the FW and PP are both clean and reinstall. The FW to crank bolts are 44 lb-ft + 90 degrees and the PP to FW bolts are 15 lb-ft. Tighten both diagnolly, use new fasteners, and use lock tite. Its also a good idea to replace the throw out bearing on the trans. This is easy to do, and make sure a lube up the input shaft where the throw out slides on. Once the FW is on, you will need an alignment tool to center the clutch. I bought the VW tool and it is very very high quality, A2 tool steel, machined to the tenth. Others have used a 14mm socket. I just didnt want to get this part wrong, so I bought the tool for $30 or so.
Trans reinstallation:
Once you are ready for the trans to go back on, get the motor as far pass side as you can. The water pump pulley should actually be touching the frame rail over there. I had the motor tilted slightly down on the drivers side. Put the trans on a floor jack and get it centered so it wont fall over. Then, line up the trans with the engine and begin raising it. I was able to do this by myself by raising a little, then wiggling the trans, then raising a little, ect... It was actually very easy to get it back in place, just had to rotate the trans a little left to clear the drive flange on the subframe. Once its up to the right height, I reached down from above and pulled it onto the dowel pins on the block and it popped right on. I then replaced all the bolts I previously marked and reinstalled everything else I removed. Getting that rear trans bracket on is kind of a PIA. I first installed bracket with lower long bolt that gets in the way. Then I managed to jack up the motor high enough that I could slip the mount under the bracket and into subframe. Then, it was easy, just tightening everything down. I also replaced the front and rear motor mounts at this point, for good measure.
To quote Mr Bentley, installation is the reverse of removal, yada yada yada. 
If anyone has specific questions, maybe I can help. Shoot me an IM if you want, my screen name is A2T.
*** BIG EDIT ***
When you put the metal upper and lower timing covers back on, make damn sure to clean mating surfaces and apply bead of sealant. Otherwise, they will leak, and you'll be doing this all again...I'll let you know how it goes








** Another Follow on **
The lightened flywheel + turn2 LCP are excellent ad ons. I cant say which is contributing more ( I suspect the LFW), but I put both on and the engine feels GREAT. It revs much faster and in the lower gears you really have to be careful not to pass the redline. Seriously consider this, or an even lighter one, like all aluminum with steel liners. Less is better, with seemingly no drawbacks. No idea why VW used such heavy components, maybe it was parts sharing to some diesel truck...I also have no idea why the FW is held on with 10 (ten!) bolts. I just saw a european car mag with a commerical showing VWs new 10 cylinder diesel, supposedly the most powerful diesel on the market now. Guess what? The FW had 8 bolts holding it on....
Paul
92 SLC
_Modified by A2T at 10:36 AM 9-29-2003_


_Modified by A2T at 10:44 AM 9-29-2003_


----------



## Strictly Gravy (Mar 15, 2003)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

noob:  1. newbie 2. One that is new to something, especially a novice at using computer technology or VWVortex.com and the FAQ and the search function


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (Strictly Gravy)*

timing belt change on a G60:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=750397
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=407791


_Modified by G60ING at 8:14 AM 11-13-2003_


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## g60racer (Nov 18, 2000)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (G60ING)*

*Where should I set my CO pot? What is the correct resistance value?* 
Turning the CO pot doesn't do a thing but screw up the way your ECU reads the intake temp, if you mess with it when the ECU isn't set to diagnostic/tuning mode. 
*THERE IS NO MAGIC UNIVERSAL NUMBER THAT IT SHOULD BE SET TO!!!* The whole point of the CO pot is to TUNE your individual motor!!! Each individual motor is going to need to be set a little differently in order to be tuned properly. 
SO gather around boys and girls, and let Uncle G60racer tell you a story about how to tune up your G60. 
First of all, you need a smog machine (gas analyzer) to do it. If you don't have access to one, you cannot properly tune your car. Period. Stop. Do not pass go, do not turn the CO pot. 
From the bible, I mean Bentley:
1. Let the car run and warm up. Oil temp has to be at least 180*F, and the rad fan has to have cycled at least twice. 
2. Rev your motor past 3000rpm three times for at least one second each time. This lets your ECU get out of warm-up/coldstart mode. 
3. Unplug your blue coolant temp sensor, on the main radiator hose in front of the head. The ECU is now in diagnostic/tuning mode, and it will save new values inputted to it as a new baseline of initial settings. 
4. Set timing to 6*BTDC. Advancing or retarding it from there does nothing but screw up how the car runs, this is the baseline from which the ECU will advance or retard timing electronically. 
5. Monitor the CO % level from the sniffer pipe upwind of the catalytic convertor. Adjust the CO pot so that the CO level is 0.07%, +/- 0.05%, with the HC levels below 120ppm. 
6. Adjust the idle screw according to your cam. Stock cam = 850rpm, 260 cam = 950rpm, 268cam = 1050 rpm. This can be +/- 50rpm. 
7. Plug the blue temp sensor back in. The ECU has now saved your values, the car is properly tuned, and you can go play.


----------



## Godless G60 (Mar 9, 2004)

for putting your Corrado-pics online and linking them to the forum, Http://www.corrado-database.com


----------



## vw mofo (Mar 5, 1999)

*Re: (Godless G60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Kameirocco* »_
1989 corrado
Make : VOLKSWAGEN Model : CORRADO Year : 1989 
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 96V115000 Recall Date : JUN 25, 1996 
Component: ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING:COOLING SYSTEM 
Potential Number Of Units Affected : 8100 
Make : VOLKSWAGEN Model : CORRADO Year : 1989 
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 92V058000 Recall Date : APR 08, 1992 
Component: FUEL SYSTEM, GASOLINEELIVERY:HOSES, LINES/PIPING, AND FITTINGS 
Potential Number Of Units Affected : 358000 
1990
Make : VOLKSWAGEN Model : CORRADO Year : 1990 
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 91V068000 Recall Date : APR 15, 1991 
Component: FUEL SYSTEM, GASOLINEELIVERY:FUEL PUMP 
Potential Number Of Units Affected : 8500 
Make : VOLKSWAGEN Model : CORRADO Year : 1990 
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 96V115000 Recall Date : JUN 25, 1996 
Component: ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING:COOLING SYSTEM 
Potential Number Of Units Affected : 8100 
Make : VOLKSWAGEN Model : CORRADO Year : 1990 
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 92V058000 Recall Date : APR 08, 1992 
Component: FUEL SYSTEM, GASOLINEELIVERY:HOSES, LINES/PIPING, AND FITTINGS 
Potential Number Of Units Affected : 358000 
1991 (no wonder i'm having fueling issues














).
Make : VOLKSWAGEN Model : CORRADO Year : 1991 
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 91V068000 Recall Date : APR 15, 1991 
Component: FUEL SYSTEM, GASOLINEELIVERY:FUEL PUMP 
Potential Number Of Units Affected : 8500 
Make : VOLKSWAGEN Model : CORRADO Year : 1991 
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 92V058000 Recall Date : APR 08, 1992 
Component: FUEL SYSTEM, GASOLINEELIVERY:HOSES, LINES/PIPING, AND FITTINGS 
Potential Number Of Units Affected : 358000 
1992
Make : VOLKSWAGEN Model : CORRADO Year : 1992 
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 92V058000 Recall Date : APR 08, 1992 
Component: FUEL SYSTEM, GASOLINEELIVERY:HOSES, LINES/PIPING, AND FITTINGS 
Potential Number Of Units Affected : 358000 
Make : VOLKSWAGEN Model : CORRADO Year : 1992 
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 93V102000 Recall Date : JUN 07, 1993 
Component: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:WIRING:FRONT UNDERHOOD 
Potential Number Of Units Affected : 4300 
Make : VOLKSWAGEN Model : CORRADO Year : 1992 
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 98V295000 Recall Date : NOV 12, 1998 
Component: ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING:COOLING SYSTEM 
Potential Number Of Units Affected : 6217 
1993
Make : VOLKSWAGEN Model : CORRADO Year : 1993 
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 93V102000 Recall Date : JUN 07, 1993 
Component: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:WIRING:FRONT UNDERHOOD 
Potential Number Of Units Affected : 4300 
Make : VOLKSWAGEN Model : CORRADO Year : 1993 
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 98V295000 Recall Date : NOV 12, 1998 
Component: ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING:COOLING SYSTEM 
Potential Number Of Units Affected : 6217 
Make : VOLKSWAGEN Model : CORRADO Year : 1993 
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 95V178000 Recall Date : SEP 15, 1995 
Component: ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING:COOLING SYSTEM:FAN 
Potential Number Of Units Affected : 34000 
1994
: VOLKSWAGEN Model : CORRADO Year : 1994 
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 98V295000 Recall Date : NOV 12, 1998 
Component: ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING:COOLING SYSTEM 
Potential Number Of Units Affected : 6217 
Make : VOLKSWAGEN Model : CORRADO Year : 1994 
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 95V178000 Recall Date : SEP 15, 1995 
Component: ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING:COOLING SYSTEM:FAN 
Potential Number Of Units Affected : 34000 
1995
Make : VOLKSWAGEN Model : CORRADO Year : 1995 
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 95V178000 Recall Date : SEP 15, 1995 
Component: ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING:COOLING SYSTEM:FAN 
Potential Number Of Units Affected : 34000 
well now that i have this information, i'm going to call VW on monday and get it all taken care of, my fueling system that is















thought it might be some useful information for some owners out there http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## caudex (Oct 7, 2002)

If anyone is looking for part numbers, I have made my Corrado parts sheets into a Adobe .pdf 
You can view it here: http://home.comcast.net/~caude...s.pdf


----------



## dogbunny (Feb 22, 2003)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (caudex)*


_Quote, originally posted by *caudex* »_If anyone is looking for part numbers, I have made my Corrado parts sheets into a Adobe .pdf 
You can view it here: http://home.comcast.net/~caude...s.pdf

Thanks a lot for this...very useful for a new Corrado owner.


----------



## Search and FAQ Dude (May 20, 2004)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (dogbunny)*

Great info on replacing the underhood insulation


----------



## Absolut Magumbo (May 6, 2004)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (Search and FAQ Dude)*

Flow Comparisons between a stock G60 and a stock Lysholm


----------



## D bot (Sep 11, 2003)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

Weight of the Corrado VR6 rear leather seats is approximately 42 pounds.


----------



## cbgthor (Feb 16, 2002)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

*Hood Release Cable Problems*
I noticed this comes up every now and then, here's some good discussion on it:
"In progress...Hood release cable "How-to" page" 
"Help on Replacing Hood Release Cable" 
"Hood Release cable broke NEED HELP OPENING HOOD" 
Ok...so I got the hood open...but the release cable seems intact?? 
"To all those that have contended with the ol' broken hood release cable..."
...and from the good ol' Corrado Club of America FAQ:  How to open a stuck hood without removing the grill
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## cbgthor (Feb 16, 2002)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (cbgthor)*

I'm going to make an attempt to collect the best of the *Basic G60 Troubleshooting* threads and put them here. Not because I hate seeing the question asked all the time, but because I think a basic checklist is a good reference to have, ya know?
Just a general note:
If you have little experience and want to troubleshoot problems on the G60 motor yourself, _get a Bentley Corrado Factory Repair Manual_. You can find them on Ebay, in the Vortex Classifieds, and new/used on Amazon, which is where I got mine. Familarize yourself with it, read it on the toilet if you have to. It's not the easiest thing to understand but is as valuable a tool for the DIY person as anything.
The parts I will refer to are plainly illustrated on diagrams in that manual if you're not sure what they are.
---------------------------------
Basic info on Digifant fuel injection
Advanced info on Digifant fuel injection
---------------------------------
A very good basic explanation of warm-up and such, related to the blue coolant temp sensor.

_Quote, originally posted by *mrkrad* »_1. A car requires more fuel when dead cold.
1a. The blue CTS tells the car its dead cold. 
1aa. The black cts is a good way to test the blue cts, swap harnesses.
2. The car needs less fuel to idle when it has reached optimal temps (AKA WARMED UP).
2a. faulty blue cts will dump cold start fueling when warm - aka poor mpg, no sweeping action on a/f gauge, car will bog and die.
3. Closed loop emissions control mode is engaged when a valid signal, or BLUE CTS temperature range is met see #2a.)
3a. the heating element in the o2 sensor warms it up in 30-60 seconds so it can accurately feed data to the ecu
3b. the o2 wiring is usually both flex stressed and heat stressed (brittle).
3c. failure for the ecu to see an o2 signal will assume the car is very lean, thus the car will keep adding fuel.
3d. shorting of the o2 heating element 12V wires to the ECU INPUT 0-1V, will permanently damage the ecu and make the car run like butt.
if you swap the blue and black cts harness, and its great, go buy a $14 blue cts, its safe to drive on the black cts, be gentle on hot days, monitor MFA OIL TEMPS for cooling system malfunction.
if the blue cts is good, warm the car up, find the wot switch (See sig), and tape it shut. Go for a drive? Feels good? If so you have bad o2 system: wires, o2 sensor, ecu, anything in between... welcome to vw viring








This lesson assumes you have gone to the real forum AKA G60 and done all the basics, including tune-up.
We are capable of testing ecu's but honestly its not worth my time. My car works, and if you believe you've fried the ecu circuitry, it is possible to just drive with wot switch plugged in or chipping the ecu to not participate in emissions control, for off road purposes. race car folks dont need emissions/catalysts.
The bucking and such is REALLY bad, especially for the tranny, motor, and motor mounts, don't drive it like that man, show some respect.


---------------------------------
The Idle Switch, and its relation to the ISV:

_Quote, originally posted by *mrkrad* »_it tells the isv to engage and also tells the ecu to cut fuel when you let off the gas (decel fuel cut).
The isv does two things:
1. holds the idle at desired idle minimum 840~'ish
2. Engages an air leak when you clutch out so the engine rpm won't drop too fast (!!) and stall.
at least in the states, that is all it does.
also i think it prevents a runaway motor, if you are at idle it cuts fuel at 2500rpm or somewhere bout there, badly tuned cars will surge from 1500-2500(cut) and back and forth.

---------------------------------
Air/Fuel Gauge Behavior

_Quote, originally posted by *mrkrad* »_basically once warm or acceptable signal (varies on chip)->
1. goes to close loop which is a sweep lean to rich
2. except when you go wot (rich lights)
3. except when you go idle decel (no lights)
4. there's a few other times when the car decides to hold it lean or rich for emissions purposes, shortly.
some of the chips will go very fast based on detection of valid signal (1 minute on sub freezing day, less than 30 seconds on warm day). Other chips rely more on the blue CTS. 

---------------------------------

_Quote, originally posted by *TBT-PassatG60* »_For timing you should be seeing around 15-18[hg -vacuum] at idle with a stock cam. If you're seeing less either your timing is retarded or you have a vacuum leak.

---------------------------------
*Basic Steps to Troubleshooting Bad Idle on a Corrado G60, for Beginners*(What I've Done In This Situation That Has Worked For Me)

First, do this basics to eliminate some variables:
DEGUNK THE Idle Stabilizer Valve (ISV) - Pull it off, spray it full of brake/parts/carb cleaner. Shake it around with the cleaner inside, empty it out, repeat until the cleaner comes out clear. Remember, do not unplug the ISV with the key in the accessory or on position. THis is bad for the ECU.
Check for vacuum leaks. There are a load of vacuum lines on the G60. The stock lines are rubber wrapped in a braided cloth, and can dry-rot and crack. I replaced all of mine, from the dealer, for less than $40. Just ask for the diameters and lengths, and they should be able to cut them for you.
Here are the sizes, courtesy of the G60 Forum FAQ:
3.5 mm size line: 34" (brake booster line) + 39.5" (1 meter ECU line) + 6" (FPR) + 55"(charcoal mainifold) + 30" (air box to brake booster line) = 14.3 feet
9 mm size line: 40" (throttle body to charcoal)
5 mm size line: = 23" (brake booster to charcoal) + 28" (fuel tank breather line to charcoal) = 4 feet 3 inches.
That one-meter throttle-body to ECU line is important. There are two vacuum lines that go to the throttle body, and the ECU line connects to the nipple closest to the passenger side.

Second, Look at the electrical stuff.
Make sure there is no interruption in the spark: spark plugs/wires...make sure they are in good shape.
There's an electrical switch on the throttle body called the "idle switch" that should click on when the throttle is closed. Not surpisingly, the car will not idle right if this switch is fouled. It actually might not even start. It shares its connection to the harness with the wide-open throttle (WOT) switch, and the plug is on the back of the throttle body. 
The fuel injector harness is in a pretty crappy place, between the head and intake manifold, where there certainly is significant heat. The insulation gets very brittle over time and there is the potential for electrical shorts. Check it.

Third, determine under what conditions idle is poor.
>Is it bad when the car is cold but better when the car warms up? 
>Or is it good when the car is cold and worsens when the car gets warmed up? 
>Or is it just crappy all the time?

>Idle Is Bad When The Car Is Cold: 
If you disconnect the blue coolant temp sensor while the engine is running and it idles better, you probably need a new blue coolant temp sensor.
If that doesn't do it, then check the O2 sensor, check your timing and reset your idle*
>Idle Is Bad When The Car Is Warm.
If you disconnect the o2 sensor before or while the engine is running, and the car idles better, you probably need a new o2 sensor.
If that doesn't do it, then check the blue cts, check your timing and reset your idle.* If the idle is set too low, then the ISV will attempt to compensate for it once the car is out of cold-start mode, and the idle will be bonkers.
>Idle Just Sucks All The Time. Either the timing is way, way off, or you didn't set the idle right (too low).*
*Remember, the idle won't set correctly using the idle screw if you don't have the ISV unplugged. 
And Remember that Digifant-1 has a goofy method for setting the timing. The car must be warm, with the blue CTS unplugged, and the motor must be at 2500 rpm or so. Set it for 6 degrees BTDC (p.s. you need a timing light to do this).

If idle is still bad, ask the experts in the G60 tech forum and read through the G60 tech forum FAQ if you haven't already and be sure to tell them you've done the basics.
---------------------------------
I'll keep this updated, IM me with corrections or suggestions. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by cbgthor at 6:10 PM 6-7-2005_


----------



## cbgthor (Feb 16, 2002)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

*The Ever-Common "No spoiler, no tach, no gas, no water temp gauge, no MFA" Problem*
I've personally ran into two different sets of circumstances that have led to the failure of the rear spoiler motor, tachometer, gas gauge, water-temp gauge, and MFA. 
_FYI: On early 1990 G60s with a mechanical odometer, the speedometer was cable driven and therefore is not affected by this problem. On later models with the digital odometer, the speedo quits as well. _

*1)* All of these run through Fuse #16, and if it poops out, then so will your gauges, spoiler, etc. 
The number one reason that this fuse pops is the rear spoiler. The motor pushes cables through tubes that raise the wing supports up and down. After years of use those cables get dirty, along with the electric motor. When the motor can no longer push the wing up and down, the fuse blows.
This is the simplest (though not most comprehensive or long-lasting) way to clean the spoiler out, if you're not mechanically inclined or strapped for time:

_Quote, originally posted by * Edited from the Corrado Club of America Website* »_ A friend of mine was having a problem with the rear wing going down and one weekend we took the car and tried to figure out what the heck was going on.When the wing went up it was fine but on the way down it would slow and blow a fuse (gauges would not work). If you seem to have this problem than there's a good chance that you can save the motor without disassembling it.
First thing to do is raise the hatch and take off the panel to get to the motor assembly. Looking at the assembly for the wing (which is in two parts: motor and "tranny") on the "tranny" for the wing is a lever that disengages the motor. Just pull the lever out and disengage the motor. Then, rotate the lever so the wing is half way up. 
Now, turn your ignition onto the accessory position, and hit the manual switch on the dash to raise and lower the wing. What you are doing is cleaning off the brushes on the motor. If your wing goes up fine then first run the motor to go up and then off and on run it down for a short period and back up again. After about 5 or 10 minutes reengage the wing to see if this has helped; if so I would repeat the procedure another time. If your wing will not go up but will go down than reverse the procedure. I hope this is of some help, I would not even want to imagine how much the dealer would want for a new motor.


If this doesn't work, refer to VR62NV's thread on the complete disassembly of the wing motor (also below in this FAQ).

*2)* I once fried the circuity in the gauge cluster by accidently hooking up jumper cables to the wrong terminals. To make a long story short, the gauges quit working, along with a few other problems that you might imagine would come from such a stupid mistake.
I would say this is in all likelihood not a common occurence and probably not your problem, but it's just something to consider. IM me with questions, I can help out if you think this is your problem.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


_Modified by cbgthor at 1:07 PM 4-15-2005_


----------



## bulldog2.G (Jul 25, 2004)

Our Corrado Forum New Guy warm welcome:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2738475
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...49319
*Gravy's* Wheel Fitment Thread
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...age=1
*My* Meager attempt at the penultimate Coilover Question/Response thread.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2614986 
Suspension Mounting drawings, front and rear.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2788362

G60 Speedo Cable news.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2606119
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2649405
Great Emissions info:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1679242
Exhaust:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2426424
For spacer/adapters contact Fred Goeske -- he can make you anything.
http://www.wheeladapter.com
SERIOUSLY Bitchin Upholstery work, TRUE Alcantara:
GERMAN CLASSIC INTERIORS
Andreas Georgi
32991 Calle Aviador Ste. B (call before you go, it is hard to find!)
San Juan Capestrano, CA 
949-412-5567
andreasgeorgi at sbcglobal.net
Corrado Paint Codes, no pics:
http://www.corrado-club.com/corrado/speccolor.cfm
pics:
http://media.corrado-club.ca/media/paintcodes.pdf
A Lesson in Zarman:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2489774
HOOD release cable help.
http://bethandjames.com/corrado_hood_release.htm
Wheel Widening.
http://www.bobhindsonracinginc...elies
http://www.wheelcollision.com 
http://www.stocktonwheel.com/wheel_widening.htm

HEADLAMP/FOG/TURN/TAIL Info:
ECode differences: G60 vs SLC http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...06183
Euro Headlamp Plug wiring. (inpros, too)
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2194857
Eurolamp Tab Repair.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2343937
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...40559
*VWLeistung's* Fog lamp (vr6 specific) write up.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...41662
Rally Lens replacement info for VR6 foglamps.(lens only!cheap!)
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1299152
Headlight relay illustrations...
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1086517
More light stuff. Rally lenses, polished turns......Andylyco,
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1300606
*Dennis* and his crazy lights...again.








http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1875084
Tinted Tails:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...age=1
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2234164

Ignition Switch foibles:
http://members.cox.net/bierich...t.jpg 
*Krazee's* SeatBracket mod.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1011527
*Brendan's* seat brackets. Good stuff.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1003021
More Radio Crap (Aktiv):
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1668352

The Ultimate Sunroof repair threads.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1355481
This may seem redundant, but still too many questions about it....Moonroof
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1657330
AND from the Department of Redundancy Department:
*ButchHusky's* Moonroof INFO: http://www.geocities.com/corradomoonroof
*Mr.Oichan's* rattle tap stop.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1938743
*DJrado's* Round E30 lamp kit ....... http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1832479 
SPOILER MOD.... http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1832473 

*Shawn's* crank pulley fix...
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1598023

Inline Fuel pump pics and info.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1936389 
*nidnabd's* Excellent, succinct fuel pump replacement write up.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...84306
VR6 UE Heatercore Recall info:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...77556
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1390504
http://home.maine.rr.com/aptdav/UECir.pdf
http://www.corrado-club.ca/for...12;p=
http://www.recall-warnings.com....html
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/c...h.cfm
General Corrado Recall info:

_Quote, originally posted by *NateNantais* »_90/91 fuel pump (USA): http://www.part-xchange.com/vw.cc.rg.us.pdf
89-92 steering rack (CAN) http://www.part-xchange.com/vw.cc.rt.can.pdf
90-93 fuel hoses (USA) http://www.part-xchange.com/vw.cc.sh.us.pdf
92-93 engine electrical (USA) http://www.part-xchange.com/vw.cc.sq.us.pdf
93-95 rad fan http://www.part-xchange.com/vw.cc.tj.us.pdf
89-90 HEX http://www.part-xchange.com/vw.cc.tm.us.pdf
92-94 cooling system http://www.part-xchange.com/vw.cc.ue.us.pdf

G60 Recall info:
http://www.alldata.com/TSB/62/90620918.html 
http://www.recall-warnings.com....html
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/c...h.cfm
Euro Seat Belt Install:
http://www.geocities.com/torna...s.htm

Good source for cheap drive belts:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo700belts.htm
G60 Serp Belt Lengths:
Pulley wo/AC Length
80 mm 1660 mm 6PK1660
72 mm same as 80 mm 6PK1660
70 mm 1635 mm 6PK1635
68 mm same as 70 mm 6PK1635
65 mm 1625 mm 6PK1625 
62 mm 1613 mm 6PK1613
Pulley with/AC Length
80 mm 1760 mm 6PK1760
72 mm same as 80 mm 6PK1760
70 mm 1735 mm 6PK1735
68 mm same as 70 mm 6PK1735
65 mm 1725 mm 6PK1725
62 mm 1613 mm 6PK1613
Bypassed Charger
wo/AC 1235 mm 6PK1235
w/AC 1535 mm 6PK1535
*TESTING BOOST LEVELS WITH MFA!!!*
start motor
turn MFA to "2"
hold button-in at end of wiper stalk (one hand)
stop motor (other hand!)
start motor
release button at end of stalk
press button at end of stalk once more. 
NOW...GO drive the thing, carefully, because you 
need to hit redline in 2nd and/or 3rd gears to get 
your results. Note the largest # you see at redline!
How to translate your results:
(early)(late)=PSI
154 1050= .725 
160 1100= 1.45
166 1150= 2.175
172 or 1200= 2.9
177 1250= 3.625
182 1300= 4.35
187 1350= 5.075
192 or 1400= 5.8 
197 1450= 6.525
201 1500= 7.25
206 1550= 7.975
211 or 1600= 8.7
215 1650= 9.425
220 1700= 10.15
224 1750= 10.875
228 or 1800= 11.6
231 1850= 12.325
235 1900= 13.05
239 1950= 13.775
242 or 2000= 14.5
245 2050= 15.225
249 2100= 15.95
252 2150= 16.675
255 or 2200= 17.4
258 2250= 18.125
261 2300= 18.85
264 2350= 19.5 
267 or 2400= 20.3 
9psi is stock.
anything less is not a good sign.
Contact the guys who do it BETTER!!
http://www.kompressorkanada.ca 
613-293-1705, David 






































Part numbers:
357-711-164
357-711-145
357-711-590-C
357-711-590-B
357-711-124A
357-711-166-A

TIRE RATING CLUES.
M	81 mph	130 km/h	
N	87 mph	140km/h	Temporary Spare Tires
P	93 mph	150 km/h	
Q	99 mph	160 km/h	Studless & Studdable Winter Tires
R	106 mph	170 km/h	H.D. Light Truck Tires
S	112 mph	180 km/h	Family Sedans & Vans
T	118 mph	190 km/h	Family Sedans & Vans
U	124 mph	200 km/h	
H	130 mph	210 km/h	Sport Sedans & Coupes
V	149 mph	240 km/h	Sport Sedans, Coupes & Sports Cars
W	168 mph	270 km/h	Exotic Sports Cars
Y	186 mph	300 km/h	Exotic Sports Cars
Gear Ratio Help:
http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel...shtml
http://www.scirocco.org/gears

_Quote, originally posted by *G60ING* »_here are a lot of the O2A tranny codes that I've compiled from 2-3 places:
_________1st___2nd___3rd___4th___5th___R&P___Notes
ATA====3.778 =2.105 =1.345=0.971=0.795=3.684==Corrado G60
AYL====3.778=2.118=1.429=1.029=0.837=3.684==Corrado G60
CAW====3.77=2.118=1.458=1.034=0.838=3.647==Corrado G60
CDM====3.300=1.944=1.308=1.034=0.838=3.647==Corrado VR6
AGC====3.778 =2.105=1.345=0.971=0.795=3.944= Passat 16V
AYK====3.778=2.118=1.429=1.029=0.837=3.684= Passat 16v
CES====3.778=2.118=1.429=1.029=0.837=3.684== Passat?
CHA====3.778=2.118=1.360=0.917=0.717=3.944==VR6 Canada
CGY====3.778=2.118=1.458=1.029=0.837=3.684== Passat?
CNL====3.778=2.118=1.458=1.029=0.837=3.684==VR6 Passat?
CCM====3.300=1.944=1.308=1.034=0.838=3.389==VR6 Passat, Jetta, Golf
CTN====3.778=2.118=1.360=1.029=0.755=3.157==Jetta/Golf TDI
DQY====3.778=2.118=1.360=1.029=0.755=3.389==Jetta/Golf TDI
ASD====3.300=1.944==1.308==1.09==0.717==3.16==TDI I've heard of a few being bought in the USA but I believe its a euro MK3 TDI tranny
CHN==== Golf
CHU==== Passat
CRU==== Passat
O2C trannys (SYNCRO):
CBC,CHD=3.778=2.118=1.360=0.967=0.769=3.938== Passat Syncro CDN
AYR ====3.778=2.118=1.345=0.971=0.756=3.944== Passat Syncro
CDH====3.778=2.118=1.360=0.967=0.769=3.938== Passat Syncro
I will later start a O2J tranny code list as the gears are also swapable. 













96.5 and earlier golf/jetta3 2.0 = larger spring top and old strut bearings.
newer than 96.5 golf/jetta3 2.0 = small (vr6 style) spring top and bearings.
all golf/jetta3/Corrado vr6= small vr6 style spring hat and bearings
357 412 341A


_Modified by bulldog2.G at 7:50 PM 2-5-2010_


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## Scuba2001 (Jul 16, 2002)

Lots of great information. Im going to watch this as I have a few buddies that are going to need this.


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## CorradoKid13 (Nov 24, 2004)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

I have one question when looking into buying a corrado, should i look for one that has mods already done to it, like a new supercharger or a chip, or should i look into finding one that is completely stock and build it up from the ground?


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## capthowdy_1968 (Jan 9, 2001)

*Stock Corrado Colors*

This website lists stock and looks like some aftermarket colors that the corrado came in with color codes.

http://www.linkhitlist.com/cgi...54376


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## J3ohno2.0 (Apr 14, 2002)

*Re: Stock Corrado Colors (capthowdy_1968)*

*Adding keyless entry to your G60 or SLC w/ power door locks* 

these directions/notes are for adding an aftermarket keyless entry unit like the one shown.
*Valet 716T* price: ~$60-80








after a lot of researching i found this place > http://www.autopreservers.com which is AWESOME, its run by this one guy (doug) who not only knows his products unbelievably well, but has offered the BEST customer service ive ever had! i called tonight for some tech help at 9:30 est thinking that he was in cali (which hes not) and the guy picked up the phone and explained everything i needed to know for the light relays.
for 2 horn relays, 1 light relay, and the 716T unit + shipping i paid about $85.
the system works great and the install was breeze.
This system is marketed by Valet which is manufactured by DEI(directed electronics inc.) who also makes viper, python and a few others.
Tools needed:
phillips head driver
8mm socket
electrical tape
"vampire" wire taps 16-22gauge is fine
male and femal quick connects 
spade terminal
wire crimper/dikes
i used many of the wires coming from the headlight switch to tap into:
Constant power(+12v) - Thick RED
Ignition sense - Thick Black w/ Yellow stripe
Parking light lead - Thin Blue w/ Green stripe
Ground(-) - grounding pin in the drivers kick panel
For the lock and unlock connections i tapped into the proper wires directly at the central locking unit, which is located behind the knee bar to the right of the steering wheel. you can access this unit from underneath by removing the black plastic pedal cluster cover.
The 2 wires needed are found in a BLACK 10 pin harness.
Power Door Lock - Thin Red w/ Yellow stripe
Power Door Unlock - Thin Red w/ Black stripe
ANTENNA
I really didnt have to take much apart, however to run the antenna, i extended the supplied 12" one with a another piece of 20 gauge wire to about 3 feet and snaked it through the A-pillar molding.
LED status light and VALET button
i mounted the LED status light and Valet button(programming button) to the left of the shift boot near the coin holders. i then ran the wires back through the dash tunnel
FLASHING parking light RELAY
i had them include a relay so my parking lights would flash when either locking or unlocking the doors. They supplied me with a DEI 8617(525T) relay.
wiring for blinking lights:
#87A (Orange) - NOT USED, i removed this wire from the relay completely
#86 (Red) - Splice with #30 (yellow) wire from same relay and connect to constant power (+12v)
#30 (Yellow) - Splice with #86 (red) wire from same relay and connect to constant power (+12v)
#85 (Black) - Connect to (-) pulse light "flash" wire coming from keyless entry unit
#87 (Brown) - Tap parking light lead (+) @ headlight switch (green w/ blue stripe
I mounted both the Valet 716T unit and the light flash relay on top on the pedal cluster cover (the black plastic cover that sits above your shins when driving) using 2 small screws and nuts.
i used "vampire" taps for most of the connections, made sure to tape all my connections and ziptied all loose wires. 
i wouldnt recomend tapping the lock/unlock wires anywhere else, but at the central locking unit (as apposed to tapping them in the drivers door, or when they come in from the door grommet). theyre actually easiest to get at from harness at the locking unit.
running wires to the engine bay is unnecessary as the constant power lead going to the headlight switch is more than sufficient as well as the ignition sense.
i hope that covers most of it.


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## Dr Forinor (Apr 6, 2004)

SaabFan, you posted links to sites where you can buy parts for the VR6, do you have any UK links please? Or if anyone else has UK links? 
Thanks in advance. 


_Modified by Dr Forinor at 10:57 PM 1-2-2005_


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## a_grl_n_her_rado (Aug 2, 2003)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

Disection and assembly of your door handles, also how to replace the troublesome striker arm with an aftermarket kit. 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1752253


_Modified by a_grl_n_her_rado at 1:27 PM 1-18-2005_


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## bbmcorrado (Jun 3, 2004)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

bump


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## VR62NV (Sep 28, 2001)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (bbmcorrado)*

HERE ARE MY SPOILER MOTOR CLEANING INSTRUCTIONS AND PICTURES, VERY EASY AND WORTH THE TIME, SAVE A MOTORS LIFE:
Hey everyone, my spoiler motor recently took a poop on me so I had to get a used one off of ebay. Before I installed the used motor I decided to take it apart and clean it as well as take some pictures. I highly recommend you do this if you are bored some Sunday. This used motor I got was extremely dirty inside and was very easy to clean and I'm sure by cleaning it I added years to its life. Take it for what it's worth. I at least got some good pictures for you to look at. Enjoy.
































































One final note, I really recommend doing this preventive maintenence because if I did this when my motor was just starting to give me problems I probably would have caught the broken spring and would have only needed to replace that. Also, be sure to handle the plastic contact piece that goes on the top of the motor with care. If you drop it and the plastic breaks or something else happens to it you'll be up [email protected] creek without a paddle. Just be careful and you'll be fine. My motor runs very smooth by the way. *DO THIS BEFORE YOUR SPOILER MOTOR STARTS TO GO BAD.* *ALSO, BE SURE THAT THE THREE TABS THAT CONNECT THE MOTOR TO THE GEAR HOUSING ARE TIGHT AND THERE IS NO PLAY WHEN YOU PULL ON THE MOTOR.*


_Modified by VR62NV at 4:11 AM 1-14-2005_


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## shapeco (May 28, 2004)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (VR62NV)*

vr6snv your the sh*t for posting this..... its going to be a BIG HELP


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## James 93SLC (Sep 27, 2000)

*CORRADO FAQ - Replacing Hood Release Cable*

How-to writeup and part numbers for replacing and adjusting the hood release cable.
Corrado Hood Release 
Original Post
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1859368


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## Eugenel (May 30, 2005)

hi i have a quick question about the corrado, have any been released with airbags?


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## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Window Regulator Removal.*

Want to replace those hosed window regulators here is the link.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...60587


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## X-Player360 (Jul 31, 2005)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

yo wat up im 13 years old and i want a g60 corrado when i get my permit i have went to waterfest 10 and 11 yo give me some tips and facts about this car peace


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## Eugenel (May 30, 2005)

probably not the best thread to talk about this, in fact, dont talk about this in this thread, start a new one or something. Bottom line, wait until you are a car expert before you get a corrado


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## ntonar (Nov 21, 2000)

*Re: (Eugenel)*

16v g60 or turbo intake elbow









Bumper clips


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## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Window regulators*

Ok Here is full write up to the pesky window regulator removal and install. (56K At your own risk)


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## a_grl_n_her_rado (Aug 2, 2003)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

An EXCELLENT thread on the 5spd swap (parts list)
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1679027


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## jerseyjim0 (Sep 28, 2005)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (a_grl_n_her_rado)*

well theres one for sale, it needs an axel and trans mount and soon a head gasket for a really cheap price its a g60 what ya think should i get it?


_Modified by yellowslc at 7:40 AM 6-7-2006_


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## Intero (Feb 18, 2006)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (jerseyjim0)*

Thank you for this! Everytime I get the Corrado bug, I read through the forum just to remind me all the little pesky problems. As long as I fight the urge not to test drive one, I should be fine


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## G60Scuzz (Nov 14, 2003)

*Re: (Eugenel)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Eugenel* »_probably not the best thread to talk about this, in fact, dont talk about this in this thread, start a new one or something. Bottom line, wait until you are a car expert before you get a corrado

Well if you aren't it will defaintely make one out of you http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## TheMessenger (Mar 28, 2005)

*Re: (G60Scuzz)*

Tru dat, makes you buy lot's of tools as well


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## Corrado SLC NL (May 3, 2005)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (a_grl_n_her_rado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *a_grl_n_her_rado* »_An EXCELLENT thread on the 5spd swap (parts list)
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1679027

thx, i am going to need this pretty soon


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## G60Scuzz (Nov 14, 2003)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (Corrado SLC NL)*

The thread with oil information from a Corrado owner's standpoint http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2529985


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## MySunRoofWorks (Aug 2, 2000)

*Re: (TheMessenger)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheMessenger* »_Tru dat, makes you buy lot's of tools as well

some of them in double!


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## illwilll (May 30, 2006)

just bought a corrado
1991 w 95 vr6 conversion
12litres/100 km on highway
idles at 400 rpm pretty smooth
mods: neuspeed intake
feels a little slow mind you i havent driven past 3500 rpm
my question is what preventative maintenance should i do or what should i be looking for before a catastrophe takes place?


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## VR SEX (Apr 2, 2002)

*Re: (illwilll)*

another get your stuck hood open thread
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2458932


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Late Oil/Volt Gage Wiring*

There is detailed wiring in the Bentley for this (P134 or 360). Here are a few things to get you started.
-The Volt Gage Src on 93 went to the Bk/Y wire that the + Glove box light Cricuit is on. Make sure this wire on your 92 is Bk/Y and is one hot when the Ign is on. This ends up at Q/4 at the Fuse Box
- The Dimmer light Circuit src is Gy/BL and you can tie into either the same color on the radio harness and/or the Cig lighter Harness.
- A ground (Br)
- Oil Pressure sender Wire (Orig BL/Y from Volt/OP Gage plug -> BL/W wire that runs to the Engine Bay).
on the back of the Gages here is the plug config starting from the top:
- Oil
- Volt
- Ground
- Light
Hope that helps.
Shawn


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## kamel15 (Sep 21, 2006)

*Re: A/C Information (vw mofo)*

is the pressure switch black and cyclindrical? would it not work if the housing is cracked?


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## vwpunk (Jun 6, 2001)

*Re: A/C Information (kamel15)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kamel15* »_is the pressure switch black and cyclindrical? would it not work if the housing is cracked?

cylindrical and my *guess* would be no it won't work if the housing is cracked


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## Krazee (Jan 26, 2003)

*Re: A/C Information (vwpunk)*

VR6/SLC Alternator How-To
11" and 12.3" brake upgrade discussion


_Modified by Krazee at 11:51 AM 12-7-2006_


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## iv38 (Mar 26, 2004)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (SaabFan)*

Comprehensive g60 Air Conditioning Troubleshooting
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3125631



_Modified by iv38 at 6:12 PM 3-14-2007_


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## RaraK69 (Jan 16, 2001)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (iv38)*

Fixing a Broken HVAC control (93+)
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3410242


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (RaraK69)*

since I am in here:
Got a Question about Clusters, Cluster Wiring or Cluster swaps? -> http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...78876


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## DeathWobble (Jun 20, 2006)

*Late style door cards to early cars*

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...89526
^This thread covers wiring information for putting 93+ style door cards in an early style car http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## cabrioleta1 (Dec 7, 2004)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (JustA1s)*

I know this is an old topic. But I’ve ran into trouble. I did an entire swap g60 engine and manual transmission. The original was g60 engine and automatic transmission. I put in new engine with manual transmission and new ECU that came with the new engine. I also kept the original harness did the by-pass for the interlock. Engine turns over but the fuel pump won’t turn on. Fuel pump works when I close the contacts on the relay. When I close the contacts on the relay I am able to turn the engine on but shut’s down almost right away. I've checked all the relays and seem to be good I used another buddy’s Corrado for reference. I can't seem to find the problem. I don't really know what gives the fuel pump relay power. Can anyone please help me I am really running out of time. I am in the service and schedule to go to Germany by the beginning of June. I would really like to get this project running. 
Norman.


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## red rAbb1t (Nov 6, 2006)

Excellent source for Corrado electrical information (CEL Codes, wire colors, pinouts, etc)
http://www.a2resource.com/elec....html
~Mike


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## itskmill06 (Dec 23, 2005)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (red rAbb1t)*

just was checking some old threads
this one's a very informative one about a battery drainage/charging problem,
Entitled, "Eating Voltage Regulators?!"
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3678798
here's a very good one too
"Constant Dead Battery Problem"
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4034351


_Modified by itskmill06 at 4:37 PM 9-29-2008_


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## xnology (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: CORRADO FAQ - READ THIS FIRST! (itskmill06)*

Wrong freaking topic......
Sorry!


_Modified by xnology at 10:48 PM 11-19-2008_


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## VW4Life66 (Apr 21, 2006)

*Re: (TheMessenger)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheMessenger* »_Tru dat, makes you buy lot's of tools as well

Your telling me, I have all kinds of tools for my work (enviromental tester for underground fuel tanks) and my rado has forced me to buy tools I will never use again unless its on the rado.














curse this beast and the love hate relationship...


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## Krazee (Jan 26, 2003)

:thumbup:



Krazee said:


> First - it is not worth buying any car that has been in a significant accident. There are enough Corrados out there to find one that has never been in an accident.
> 
> Second - If you buy something that appears cheap, you will end up spending alot of money to make it reliable. If you buy something at the higher end of the price spectrum, expect some, not all, of the main issues to be sorted. As mentioned, you are purchasing a car that is at best (if you import a 1995 Canadian car) 17 years old - parts wear out.
> 
> ...


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## corradoboy18 (May 1, 2003)

All the hyper links are broken. Any way to fix it?

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

corradoboy18 said:


> All the hyper links are broken. Any way to fix it?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Most of the links should redirect properly. Pictures are broken for a different reason.

For some old links ..zerothread from the good old days of the Vortex, you can take the Post ID and paste it to the Base URL.

For instance this URL"https://forums.vwvortex.com/zeropost?cmd=tshow&id=3078876" from a link above is broken. But if you take the post ID of "3078876" and paste it to the new forum format base URL it will load.

"https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?" + "3078876" = 

https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3078876

What are you looking for?


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