# Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up but moslty how it fixed a bunch of problems



## evilpat (Feb 26, 2002)

This is old news but I finally got around to replacing my old cracked coil pack harness. I ordered it back in December from http://www.1stvwparts.com for $30 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
1J0 971 658 L coil pack wiring harness (edited thanks to dragon1.8t http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif)
8L9 121 659 deflector for coil harness (from Audi TT)
Crazy as it is the deflector or heat shield cost more








After reading this thread about disconnecting the speed sensor at the tranny
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2578426
I got motivated enough to replace the harness as the speed sensor is part of it. On a whole the harness had cracked ground wires through pretty much the entire length all the way to the connector next to the battery. Random problems I have been having including static in a door speaker, problems with my window switch, fuel gauge on the fritz, random codes when I cannot find anything wrong, bad fuel economy have either gone away or dramatically improved. He11, even my turbo timer works again!
If you have had this happen repeatedly it may also be a sign . . .


Just as a warning! This is a pain in the ass and will take you the better part of a day. It requires that you pull pins out of the ECU wiring harness as well as other connector. If you are not prepared to do this pay someone else to.
This is what you are about to remove:

Just and FYI this wire harness replaces wires from the coil pack all the way to the ECU plus a connector next to the battery and the connector speed vehicle sensor. This s not an easy job and requires the removal of a bunch of stuff to get at it. I removed the battery, all of the battery tray, the airbox (or intake), the secondary air combo valve, and the coolant flange on the side of the head.
Once you get all of that stuff out start pulling the harness from the top of the valve cover and just follow the wires . . . disconnect the speed vehicle sensor and pull the cover on the black plastic wire holder that runs up into the rain tray. Inside you will find a connector with a black wire w/ a purple stripe. Disconnect it, the bundle f wire the black wire goes into is one that leads to the ECU and is the one you will be playing with.
Now get into the rain tray and disconnect the right ECU plug and it pull it out of the rain tray. There are 2 clips holding it in. One is sort of a releasable zip tie and the other is just a clasp that you pry open (carefully). In the well to the right of the battery is the other connector you will be messing with. Get all off the connectors free and then overlay the new harness you can pretty much get it connect at the valve cover and tranny speed sensor.
Pull the back off of the ECU connector to get at the pins. There are purple clips on both sides of the connector you must remove to get everything out and one purple plastic strip in the connector that releases the bundle of smaller wires in rubber grommet. The wires are numbered on the black connector. If you need me to explain how to get the wires out you should probably not be doing this.
The connector next to the battery is a little more tricky to get the pins out but other than that it is numbered better. Each wire on the replacement harness is number to correspond with the connector.
<
Now you can either just cut out the visible portion of the old harness and just bundle the replacement one with the old one or you can do it the hard way and unwrap the entire harness and pull the wires out







. I chose the more difficult one as I normally do and got everything bundled back up like it was stock. If you do it that way make sure you have a pretty decent assortment of electrical and friction tape. Tape everything back up REALLY *REALLY* good to protect the wires.

*UPDATE from VR6Dub172* 

_Quote, originally posted by *VR6VDub172* »_Hey whats up everyone who follows this DIY. Just did my harness today and took some photos and wanted to add to the thread for ppl who might want to attempt this later. It is easier then I thought IMHO. Not saying it was easy by any means, but it is very very time consuming. Like _evilpat_ said though, if some of these pics dont make sense then I would not attempt this one. But if you have any questions feel free to PM me and ask.

I uncliped everything and pulled the harness down along the side of the head to where the harness meets up with the with the rest of the engine harness.

Before leading it to the rest of the way engine harness you have to unplug it from the Trans speed sensor. 

Take all the tape and insulation off the main harness and I unplugged a couple sensors just to free up some room then organized things in a better way when everything was taped back up and plugged in.. 

Here I am about half way done taking the harness out.

Here shows the harness half way out laying on the valve cover. Wind shield wipers, rain tray are both out and harness wires are completely exposed up to the ECM.

Unplug the driver side plug on the ECM. 

ECM harness plug with the cap off the top.

After removing the clips the hold everything together I started pulling and replacing pins in the plug.

Old harness almost out. New harness has started going in.

Sensor next to the battery that you have to replace pins in. As he says above this one is more difficult. It gave me some trouble.

Old harness completely out.

All the electrical tape where there was exposed wire at one point. Was cracked in many places.

Not sure how this happened but it came out this way whether it happed while I was taking it out or while it was on the car.
I made one mistake while doing this. I started pining into the ECM plug and sensor next to the battery once I noticed the harness was not on top of the valve cover. So I had to fish it in the way I fished it out.







Was not fun but **** happens. Other then that not trying to thread jack but just give more info on the common problem. Thanks to _evilpat_ for the DIY and _Boostin20v_ for the Coil pack overlay harness TSB thread. Both are right next to each other in the DIY area. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








<IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://is.rely.net/2-64-38733-l-006e1ozlIle2NBIL2h5Dw.gif" BORDER="0"> 



_Modified by evilpat at 10:00 AM 1-15-2010_


----------



## briang (Mar 10, 1999)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up but moslty how it fixed a ... (evilpat)*

Thanks evilpat, this might come in handy someday.


----------



## Wolk's Wagon (Sep 27, 2000)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up but moslty how it fixed a ... (evilpat)*

Thanks Pat, I bet I will be doing this one day as well.


----------



## mykeytg (Feb 19, 2004)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up but mo ... (Wolk's Wagon)*

So I too have a 1.8T Golf 2001. My coil wires are shot, and I bought the same part as you... 1J0-971-658-L and my uncle mechanic and a shop told me that it has 1 more connector, and some are different colors. Did you run into this issue? I saw that you have a 2001 1.8 as well.
Thanks Pat!


----------



## H2oWerker (Feb 21, 2005)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up but moslty how it fixed a ... (evilpat)*


_Quote, originally posted by *evilpat* »_Just as a warning! This is a pain in the ass and will take you the better part of a day. It requires that you pull pins out of the ECU wiring harness as well as other connector. If you are not prepared to do this pay someone else to.

Thanks evilpat!
This is not an easy job. I didn't remove the secondary air valve and only loosened the coolant flange. It was tough to get the harness through but it went. The connector under the batery gave me trouble, I tried for about 2hrs to make an extraction tool and finally just soldered/shrink tubed the wires together. So now we'll see if my trouble goes away.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 20VT*J4 (Aug 28, 2001)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up but mo ... (mykeytg)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mykeytg* »_So I too have a 1.8T Golf 2001. My coil wires are shot, and I bought the same part as you... 1J0-971-658-L and my uncle mechanic and a shop told me that it has 1 more connector, and some are different colors. Did you run into this issue? I saw that you have a 2001 1.8 as well.


2001 is a tricky model year because there are both AWD and AWW engine coded cars so you shouldn't necessarily assume you've both got the exact same engine based on model year. I don't know for certain but I would think the different engine codes would use different harnesses. Maybe someone else that knows will post up.


----------



## LeifG (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up but mo ... (20VT*J4)*

I just replaced my coil pack wiring harness over the weekend, definitely a PITA! However, it only fixed the misfiring / surging problem for about a day. I have already replaced the coil packs with the most recent revision (I think Rev R?) and it seemed to have fixed the problem...also, only for a day!








So...I have replaced the coil packs and I have replaced the cracked wiring harness. The vacuum system seems to be intact, what else can I do? The last time it was at the dealer (last november) they mentioned that the ECU was 3 versions behind, is it worth getting the ECU reflashed??
The codes that I get consistantly are "Multiple Random Misfires Detected" and "Cylinder #2 Misfire Detected". I am going to switch coils #1 and #2 this afternoon to see if maybe the coil pack in cylinder 2 is just bad...
I am open to suggestions!


----------



## slugman (Aug 9, 2000)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up but mo ... (LeifG)*

Just did mine the other week too. Got another CEL the other day but a friend is borrowing my vag-com; I'm sure it's misfiring still though. I think the main issue with my car is that I never drive it anymore. I just put gas in it for the first time in several months and hoping that it will work through and clear up. Probably didn't need to do the harness but it was a chance to take things apart. I currently have the old harness in place (taped up) alongside the new one, will probably just cut it out in a bit rather than messing with a full removal.


----------



## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up but moslty how it fixed a ... (evilpat)*

in case anyone reads this again... let me know where I can get one of those heat sheilds ...
I also replaced my coil packs and the car ran great for ONE DAY
so then I looked into the harness and sure enough the wires were F'ed, so I wraped them up as good as I could and ordered a new harness... I'll be doing_ that_ instal this weekend but right now the car drives fine again
I'll post when Im finished to let you guys know how it go's


_Modified by skydive_007 at 10:20 PM 11-11-2007_


----------



## Seanathan (May 1, 2002)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up but mos ... (skydive_007)*

1stvwparts.com has them. ECS tuning has something similar they sell with some coilpacks.


----------



## WOB-SH573 (Apr 21, 2005)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up but moslty how it fixed a ... (evilpat)*

Thanks for the writeup I'm thinking about doing this over the winter, with the hopes (and prayers!) of fixing my missfire issues.


----------



## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up but moslt ... (WOB-SH573)*

Just replced the harness all the way through (no splicing) still misfiring and getting these codes:
Sunday,18,November,2007,18:13:48:29627
VAG-COM Version: Release 704.1
Address 01: Engine
Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 032 DL
Component and/or Version: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0003
Software Coding: 07500
Work Shop Code: WSC 00066
12 Faults Found:
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected 
P0300 - 35-00 - -
16685 - Cylinder 1: Misfire Detected 
P0301 - 35-00 - -
16686 - Cylinder 2: Misfire Detected 
P0302 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17608 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Mechanical Malfunction 
P1200 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17705 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!) 
P1297 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16804 - Catalyst System; Bank 1: Efficiency Below Threshold 
P0420 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16687 - Cylinder 3: Misfire Detected 
P0303 - 35-00 - -
16891 - Idle Control System RPM: Higher than Expected. 
P0507 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17536 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1 (Mult): System too Lean 
P1128 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16688 - Cylinder 4: Misfire Detected 
P0304 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low 
P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17766 - Cylinder 2 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit 
P1358 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000
*ANY IDEAS AS FAR AS WHAT I SHOULD DO NEXT ???*


----------



## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up but moslt ... (skydive_007)*


_Quote, originally posted by *skydive_007* »_Just replced the harness all the way through (no splicing) still misfiring and getting these codes:
Sunday,18,November,2007,18:13:48:29627
VAG-COM Version: Release 704.1
Address 01: Engine
Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 032 DL
Component and/or Version: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0003
Software Coding: 07500
Work Shop Code: WSC 00066
12 Faults Found:
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected 
P0300 - 35-00 - -
16685 - Cylinder 1: Misfire Detected 
P0301 - 35-00 - -
16686 - Cylinder 2: Misfire Detected 
P0302 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17608 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Mechanical Malfunction 
P1200 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17705 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!) 
P1297 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16804 - Catalyst System; Bank 1: Efficiency Below Threshold 
P0420 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16687 - Cylinder 3: Misfire Detected 
P0303 - 35-00 - -
16891 - Idle Control System RPM: Higher than Expected. 
P0507 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17536 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1 (Mult): System too Lean 
P1128 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16688 - Cylinder 4: Misfire Detected 
P0304 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low 
P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17766 - Cylinder 2 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit 
P1358 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000
*ANY IDEAS AS FAR AS WHAT I SHOULD DO NEXT ???*

pressure test the system, find the vac leak and fix it. Check cyl 1 and 3 for a bad plug or bad coil.


----------



## Sethrocon (May 1, 2006)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up but moslty how it fixed a ... (evilpat)*

I have a 2000 Audi A4 1.8t, having cylinder missfires on #2, replaced coilpack and spark plug, still occuring, next option is the harness.
I need to know the part # to the harness i need. Engine code is ATW.
Please let me know if you can help me.
Thanks for your time.


----------



## dragonballer2 (May 26, 2007)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up but moslty how it fixed a ... (evilpat)*

Can someone please repost the pictures that aren't showing anymore in this DIY?!?!?


----------



## kafercup (Sep 17, 2000)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up but moslt ... (skydive_007)*

sounds like a possible fuel pump relay problem.


----------



## stage3tropicalorange (Feb 13, 2008)

I too am having misfires on cylinder 2, and random misfires







I have replaced my plugs, coils, etc. Anybody know where the fuel pump relay is? And how to test it?


----------



## AllofurVWRbelong2me (Jul 12, 2004)

*Re: (stage3tropicalorange)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stage3tropicalorange* »_I too am having misfires on cylinder 2, and random misfires







I have replaced my plugs, coils, etc. Anybody know where the fuel pump relay is? And how to test it?

Your car will not start if the fuel pump relay is bad.
But since you asked. Its under the steering column, behind the plastic right about where your shin would be in a driving position. 
It will say "409" on it.








To the OP: Nice write up. http://****************.com/smile/star.gif http://****************.com/smile/star.gif http://****************.com/smile/star.gif http://****************.com/smile/star.gif http://****************.com/smile/star.gif 


_Modified by AllofurVWRbelong2me at 1:45 PM 2-23-2008_


----------



## evilpat (Feb 26, 2002)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up but m ... (dragonballer2)*

FYI~the pictures are not going to help you much. One shows the carnage of a burnt up coil pack and the others just show the replacement harness all laid out. I still have the pics but they were originally hosted at hostdub which is now kaput.


----------



## kafercup (Sep 17, 2000)

*Re: (AllofurVWRbelong2me)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AllofurVWRbelong2me* »_
Your car will not start if the fuel pump relay is bad.
_Modified by AllofurVWRbelong2me at 1:45 PM 2-23-2008_

Actually, it will start and run if the relay is in the process of failing. When it reaches this point, it triggers multiple fault codes similar to those listed above. Believe me, i've dealt with it twice myself already.


----------



## stage3tropicalorange (Feb 13, 2008)

well its 40 dollars for a new relay from napa. cant hurt too much to buy it :/ thanks for the info!!!


----------



## 2002JettaMike (Jan 20, 2008)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up but m ... (dragonballer2)*

Bump.


----------



## stage3tropicalorange (Feb 13, 2008)

i replaced the relay it ran a lil smoother but could have just been me. today i scanned the car before i started it and got this: 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thursday,28,February,2008,21:24:46:31626
VAG-COM Version: Release 704.1
Address 01: Engine
Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 032 CL
Component and/or Version: 1.8l 5V 110kW TLG V004
Software Coding: 06500
Work Shop Code: WSC 79413
1 Fault Found:
16518 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1: No Activity 
P0134 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0110 0000
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
could be my primary 02 gone bad, dont want to jump to conclusions. the car has 125k on it so it may be worth it to replace it


----------



## evilpat (Feb 26, 2002)

*Re: (stage3tropicalorange)*

check pre-cat O2 sensor and replace as needed. Could either be a bad sensor or the wiring between the ECM and the the sensor is damaged/pinched


----------



## stage3tropicalorange (Feb 13, 2008)

thanks evilpat!


----------



## 2002JettaMike (Jan 20, 2008)

*Re: (stage3tropicalorange)*

Where are the Pics??? 
Please add the pics back.
Thanks.


----------



## Eric Dow (Mar 4, 1999)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up but moslty how it fixed a ... (evilpat)*

That part number valid for AEB engines?? I really need a new harness.


----------



## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up but moslty ... (Eric Dow)*

No, the AEB uses a different harness.


----------



## menace1930 (Jun 7, 2005)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up but moslty how it fixed a ... (evilpat)*

Thanks for this info. I wish the pics would come up for me


----------



## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up but moslt ... (skydive_007)*


_Quote, originally posted by *skydive_007* »_Just replced the harness all the way through (no splicing) still misfiring and getting these codes:
Sunday,18,November,2007,18:13:48:29627
VAG-COM Version: Release 704.1
Address 01: Engine
Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 032 DL
Component and/or Version: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0003
Software Coding: 07500
Work Shop Code: WSC 00066
12 Faults Found:
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected 
P0300 - 35-00 - -
16685 - Cylinder 1: Misfire Detected 
P0301 - 35-00 - -
16686 - Cylinder 2: Misfire Detected 
P0302 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17608 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Mechanical Malfunction 
P1200 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17705 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!) 
P1297 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16804 - Catalyst System; Bank 1: Efficiency Below Threshold 
P0420 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16687 - Cylinder 3: Misfire Detected 
P0303 - 35-00 - -
16891 - Idle Control System RPM: Higher than Expected. 
P0507 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17536 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1 (Mult): System too Lean 
P1128 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16688 - Cylinder 4: Misfire Detected 
P0304 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low 
P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17766 - Cylinder 2 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit 
P1358 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000
*ANY IDEAS AS FAR AS WHAT I SHOULD DO NEXT ???*

I had those same codes (except for the low voltage and open circuit), but I couldn't find any pressure leak. I used vag-com to do a throttle body alignment, and that took care of the situation. I cleared the fault codes and they haven't come back. And the car runs a lot better.



_Modified by BassNotes at 7:17 AM 4-25-2008_


----------



## Manu44 (Dec 5, 2003)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up but moslt ... (BassNotes)*

God this harness was a bitch to replace. By far the most difficult thing i have done to my car....NOT for the faint of heart...or those on a time limit. Took me 8 hours. Mostly because i coudlnt get some of the dam pins out. When i think about the mess of wires i had in there, i cant believe i was able to get everything back together again with not 1 single problem.


----------



## sLIVER (Aug 1, 2003)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up but moslty how it fixed a ... (evilpat)*

Pictures are MIA (not hosted anymore?).
Could the OP fix this please? If you need a spot to dump pics - let me know...


----------



## Ld7w_VR (Apr 21, 2006)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up but moslty how it fixed a ... (sLIVER)*

can we get some new pictures for this??


----------



## plprana (Jan 10, 2009)

*wiring harness issues*

ive been have some problems with what i think was a coil pack malfunctiion. The car started to shake as i pressed the gas. Shortly after i stopped at a light the car stalled out. I popped the hood and saw that my #3 coil pack was on fire and had burned through the connection on the harness. I was wondering if the harness described in the previous post will fit a 2004 passat 1.8 and if this problem could be related to something other than just the harness. 
Any advice would be helpful thanks.


----------



## Imola Yellow GTi (Oct 27, 2000)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up but moslty how it fixed a ... (evilpat)*

Thanks evilpat for reposting the pics! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Ld7w_VR (Apr 21, 2006)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up bu ... (Imola Yellow GTi)*

Hey whats up everyone who follows this DIY. Just did my harness today and took some photos and wanted to add to the thread for ppl who might want to attempt this later. It is easier then I thought IMHO. Not saying it was easy by any means, but it is very very time consuming. Like _evilpat_ said though, if some of these pics dont make sense then I would not attempt this one. But if you have any questions feel free to PM me and ask.

I uncliped everything and pulled the harness down along the side of the head to where the harness meets up with the with the rest of the engine harness.

Before leading it to the rest of the way engine harness you have to unplug it from the Trans speed sensor. 

Take all the tape and insulation off the main harness and I unplugged a couple sensors just to free up some room then organized things in a better way when everything was taped back up and plugged in.. 

Here I am about half way done taking the harness out.

Here shows the harness half way out laying on the valve cover. Wind shield wipers, rain tray are both out and harness wires are completely exposed up to the ECM.

Unplug the driver side plug on the ECM. 

ECM harness plug with the cap off the top.

After removing the clips the hold everything together I started pulling and replacing pins in the plug.

Old harness almost out. New harness has started going in.

Sensor next to the battery that you have to replace pins in. As he says above this one is more difficult. It gave me some trouble.

Old harness completely out.

All the electrical tape where there was exposed wire at one point. Was cracked in many places.

Not sure how this happened but it came out this way whether it happed while I was taking it out or while it was on the car.
I made one mistake while doing this. I started pining into the ECM plug and sensor next to the battery once I noticed the harness was not on top of the valve cover. So I had to fish it in the way I fished it out.







Was not fun but **** happens. Other then that not trying to thread jack but just give more info on the common problem. Thanks to _evilpat_ for the DIY and _Boostin20v_ for the Coil pack overlay harness TSB thread. Both are right next to each other in the DIY area. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## evilpat (Feb 26, 2002)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up bu ... (VR6VDub172)*

nice pics!


----------



## Ld7w_VR (Apr 21, 2006)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up bu ... (evilpat)*


_Quote, originally posted by *evilpat* »_nice pics!









Thanks hope it helps ppl in the future.


----------



## olaf (Jun 8, 1999)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up bu ... (VR6VDub172)*

I am about to do this repair on my '01 AWW, but I have an alternative strategy:
Why can't you just splice in the new harness rather than spending 4-8 hours to replace the entire old harness all the way up to the ECU and battery? I plan to remove only the bad portion of my old harness and then splice, solder, & shrink tube the new harness into place. 
I suppose if your old harness is completely fried this will not work. However, mine is in good condition other than the cracked insulation on the wires mostly at the connector and on top of the engine.
This seems like an easier approach other than that you have to be careful to match up the wires properly.


----------



## Elvir2 (Nov 19, 2007)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up but moslty how it fixed a ... (evilpat)*

Nice write up,
I saw this stuff on ECS tuning a while back, and matching up the part numbers, these were the prices.

ECS: $50.27
1st VW parts: $39.32

good to know i found a cheaper solution

Elvir


----------



## olaf (Jun 8, 1999)

Yeah the dealer just put in four new D coil packs. So I might as well fix my wiring before I short them out. I get most of my oem parts from 1stVW.


----------



## evilpat (Feb 26, 2002)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up bu ... (olaf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *olaf* »_I am about to do this repair on my '01 AWW, but I have an alternative strategy:
Why can't you just splice in the new harness rather than spending 4-8 hours to replace the entire old harness all the way up to the ECU and battery? I plan to remove only the bad portion of my old harness and then splice, solder, & shrink tube the new harness into place. 
I suppose if your old harness is completely fried this will not work. However, mine is in good condition other than the cracked insulation on the wires mostly at the connector and on top of the engine.
This seems like an easier approach other than that you have to be careful to match up the wires properly.

That would definitely work though some people (myself included) would not be satisfied with that . . .
034 makes or made a harness that you can splice in just like you are talking but it is robust as he!! and equally costly. But you get what you pay for. Without the protection of some serious heat shielding the replacement overlay harness will fail just the same.


----------



## Ld7w_VR (Apr 21, 2006)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up bu ... (evilpat)*


_Quote, originally posted by *evilpat* »_
That would definitely work though some people (myself included) would not be satisfied with that . . .


Yea that is exactly why I did the whole harness. I would not have been satisfied splicing the wires. I also did not want to take a chance in there being other problem spots further into the harness. I would have been pretty mad if I spliced the new harness in and still had the same problem and then later found out there was more further in.


----------



## olaf (Jun 8, 1999)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up bu ... (VR6VDub172)*

Yeah I hear you. However, if I can splice the harness in 1 hr versus 8 hrs to replace, that becomes an attractive option. I plan to do a proper splice job w/ soldered connections covered by heat shrink tubing and I will go as far back as I have to before I get to good wiring. I saw the $185 ECS harness, but I paid $39 for the oem one which has lasted me 9 yrs.


----------



## olaf (Jun 8, 1999)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up bu ... (VR6VDub172)*

I just spliced in my harness today. It went pretty good. I soldered every connection, used heat shrink tubing, and then taped the crap out of everything. The only section of the wires that were cracking were directly on top of the engine. This facilitated my splicing. I think there were 10 connections. I threw in a new set of BKR6E's and the engine runs like a top with no codes. I think if you ran for too long with damaged wires the coils would arc and overheat the wires causing more damage further into the harness. Luckily I caught my problem early enough so the repair wasn't too bad.


----------



## Ld7w_VR (Apr 21, 2006)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up bu ... (olaf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *olaf* »_I just spliced in my harness today. It went pretty good. I soldered every connection, used heat shrink tubing, and then taped the crap out of everything. The only section of the wires that were cracking were directly on top of the engine. This facilitated my splicing. I think there were 10 connections. I threw in a new set of BKR6E's and the engine runs like a top with no codes. I think if you ran for too long with damaged wires the coils would arc and overheat the wires causing more damage further into the harness. Luckily I caught my problem early enough so the repair wasn't too bad. 

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Glad to here everything worked out well. Any photos?


----------



## olaf (Jun 8, 1999)

Sorry, no pics. I will take some next time I pop off the engine cover. Car has been driven for a week & I just scanned and no codes. This definitely is an alternative strategy for those who have some wiring skills.


----------



## Ld7w_VR (Apr 21, 2006)

*Re: (olaf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *olaf* »_Sorry, no pics. I will take some next time I pop off the engine cover. Car has been driven for a week & I just scanned and no codes. This definitely is an alternative strategy for those who have some wiring skills.

Cool. Glad to hear it worked out.


----------



## Ld7w_VR (Apr 21, 2006)

*Re: (VR6VDub172)*

Where can you get the some of that cloth engine harness tape? I have been searching, but can't find out where to get it.


----------



## Aronc (Jan 30, 2006)

3m 1755 is the model number of a really nice cloth tape


----------



## Ld7w_VR (Apr 21, 2006)

*Re: (ascgti89)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ascgti89* »_3m 1755 is the model number of a really nice cloth tape

Thanks you sir!!!


----------



## White Jetta (Mar 17, 2002)

*Re: (VR6VDub172)*

You can use this stuff as well, high temp, looks good, and it's cheap http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
http://cableorganizer.com/nylon/


----------



## whitemike (Nov 16, 2001)

*Re: Replace Cracked Coil Pack Wire Harnes . . short write up bu ... (olaf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *olaf* »_I just spliced in my harness today. It went pretty good. I soldered every connection, used heat shrink tubing, and then taped the crap out of everything. The only section of the wires that were cracking were directly on top of the engine. This facilitated my splicing. I think there were 10 connections. I threw in a new set of BKR6E's and the engine runs like a top with no codes. I think if you ran for too long with damaged wires the coils would arc and overheat the wires causing more damage further into the harness. Luckily I caught my problem early enough so the repair wasn't too bad. 

Sorry to bump this back up, but where exactly did you splice and solder the new harness at?


----------



## ornithology (May 6, 2009)

Awesome thread thank you so much for doing this!


----------



## rico-69 (Sep 12, 2008)

*Harness job*

Hi. Im just wondering have you had any related issues regarding your harness repair since last year? ALso what kind of symtoms were you having? I have known cracked wires behind #1, #4 packs, with misfires, cel, epc, asr......blah. I changed the coil packs behind those, ran much better, going to change the others. I have the same jette 01 1.8 aww, apr, w/57000 miles. Your response will be much appreciated. Thank Rico


----------



## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

i hate wiring and for the consensus, this can eat a dick... grinding through it though. Maybe the 35TT will crank today.


----------



## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

the connector at the battery (14 pin IIRC) can one of you guys either A) take a great picture so i can see what goes where or B) tell me the wiring colors. I kind of well ...


----------

