# the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy!



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

this is intended for those who have basic tooling skills and can turn a bolt or 2. damaging your tranny is your own risk. these are mere guidelines. some steps i skip and some i dont. but this was done from my own eyes. you may do it slightly differently. also to be noted, this strip contains the internal fluid temp sensor. so if u are running hot (tranny) and /or u read vagcom showing a high/strange temp for the trany fluid, this harness is again, bad. the code that wouldnt go away for me was ev3/n90.
*if you need a solenoid, there are other places to go. this place works for me*
http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/75421A.html done. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
symptoms...
1. you run vag-com, and the codes are solenoid related, and sometimes jumps around, from different solenoids or even all of them, chances are this internal harness is bad. external wiring should not be overlooked, but i assume uve already covered those basis. just because it was changed before doesnt mean it cant go bad again. its wire soaked in hot fluid







. anyway on with the pics.
get the car up and level...








tranny shield...








2 left bolts...








2 right bolts...








all 17mm...








4 pan bolts...








all 10mm...








right side, get the back ones too!








drain bolt...








5mm hex or allen...








yuck! its NOT supposed to be milky browm
















thats how i found the filter..sitting in the pan as so...








mmm...valve body and solenoids, harness too...the goal.
EDIT: i thought i would add this here because i get this question a gazillion times.
looking at this photo, the front of the car is <----. in this exact order, here are the solenoids, in case you ever run a scan and one pops up.
<--- ev2/n89(shift#1), ev1/n88(shift#2), ev5/n92(shift#3), ev3/n90(shift#4), ev4/n91(EPC#1)--ev7/n94(shift#5), ev6/n93 [EPC#2]. makco may say order 6 shifts, but there are only 5!_ 5 shift, 2 epc/tcc!_remember, generic readers will give a p0758 or something. get a vag-com reading to verify to you dont waste time replacing stuff.








filter seal stuck in valve body...
















cleaned ribbon harness...stick a very tiny flathead under the orange clip to remove each connector. be gentle but it will come off.








ribbon exiting top of tranny...bentley says remove starter. dont! no need, honestly.








where it connects to main tranny harness on top of tranny. that bracket is held down by a 10mm nut. makes removal easier.








that round clip is a b!tch to remove, but be gentle. and dont lose that!








freed connector! whew.








back down to tranny...








old bottom and new top

















more to come. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by rychas1 at 12:11 PM 6-15-2008_

_Modified by rychas1 at 12:20 PM 6-15-2008_

_Modified by rychas1 at 11:50 AM 7-1-2008_

_Modified by rychas1 at 11:53 AM 7-1-2008_

_Modified by rychas1 at 12:30 PM 6-8-2009_

_Modified by rychas1 at 9:18 PM 6-8-2009_


_Modified by rychas1 at 11:42 AM 7-28-2009_


----------



## royer25 (Dec 7, 2007)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

Your wasting your time, I posted a full valve body break down w/ tips on cleaning one, and all the people here gave me nothing, no comment, nothing. No one here cares, if they didn't post it, then it is crap to them. Most everyone here that knows anything about vw's went to school for them and they expect everyone with an automatic to want to swap to a manual. I wouldn't waste too much time helping out these ungratefull people out if i was you, but have at it, have fun watching your post sink into the archives.
A lot of regulars will probably post like a mofo on this post now because I said what I said, there like that, they just want to prove anyone else wrong, no matter what. Hell, if i wasted all that money becoming a vw stupified teck, I'd probably turn into a stupid, anal, retared, know it all, if i'm wrong i'm mad, erictile sucking, stupid answering, knee burnt, ***** loving, man butt loving, honda driving, buick loving, chevy touching, ford fixing, vw loving fool. (there a fool because VW's suck), really though, the people on here that love vw's love them because they work on cars for fun. If you don't like working on cars then you'll hate your VW. If you buy one, you better buy a new one under warranty, or your wasting your money. Old VW's are for sale because the people who are selling them are tired of paying for repairs. Enough said.


_Modified by royer25 at 5:41 PM 6-15-2008_


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (royer25)*

man i totally understand, but honestly i am posting this for ppl like u, or others that DO care. ppl think im nutz for even having 3 automatics! but screw them...i dont waste time thinking about waht ppl think. im documenting this for my own future reference, if anything. i fix stuff, i dont punk out and swap 5speeds http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif im not looking for a pat on the back, but honest facts. simple.


----------



## cypaul (May 29, 2007)

I may not have a use for this now. But I have added this to my ATF Bookmarks Tab.
Thanks


----------



## petesell (May 7, 2002)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

nice write up. thks. 
so you have no method for testing individual solenoids? i was told that you can 'swap' solenoids to test them, although i was also told that there is one particular solenoid in the 01m whose function is such that it cannot be swap tested. naturally, this is the solenoid of mine that went bad (biting lip). so i'm having the harness replaced, as well as the solenoid (taken from another 01m working tranny). with these sophisticated trannies i can't understand why they don't have a diagnostic to determine whether it's the solenoid or the harness


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (petesell)*

yea bentley does have the ohm values of each solenoid, but the codes indicate harness damage to some degree. i suck at wiring testing, so i didnt do that. this wa is easier to me. if it throws the same codes, im replacing EVERY solenoid. now that ive been in there, it should be much quicker next time.


----------



## rxfx101 (Sep 29, 2003)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

could this be why my VAD (yes, not VAG) wont talk to my trans? i can connect to any other 01m and have no issues, but my trans shifts like crap and hops in an out of overdrive. i cant connect so i cant diagnose! its so annoying! i personally am swapping to manual due to future motor upgrades. however i am buying a wagon that is auto for my girlfriend and i am going to rebuild the unit that is in my car currently when i pull it. however, i would like to connect and have all the communication features working correctly before i do. 
oh, and the reason i am rebuilding this one and swapping it in is for less downtime and a solid trans.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rxfx101)*

day 2 progress...
new harness in, nice and clean http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 








harness exiting tranny back to the top








cleaned tranny pan









i changed my oil also, but thats nothing to post about...


_Modified by rychas1 at 9:55 AM 6-20-2008_


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

on with the finish...
new filter on...








new pan gasket studs...








new pan gasket...








cleaned TQ plate...11mm bolts btw.








pan shield in place..








procedures from there. i refilled with 3L of the vw spec fluid. ran the shifter thru each gear while connected to vag-com. it recognized each shift as indicated on the screen. no codes came up. i checked the overflow tube when the temp reached 44*C. a drop of 2 came out. sealed it all up. done http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## aceperry (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

Totally excellent pics dude, and especially great lighting. What did you use and how did you do the lighting? Everyone here could use a tip or two from you. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (aceperry)*

well my camcorder take horrible pics. luckily i figured out how to use my fluorescent shop lamp to help that situation http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif i just held the lamp behind the camera.


----------



## DerVogelBenannteMyst (Jun 9, 2008)

thank you for posting. i like having a auto and i am looking for as much information as i can about them. to bad i have the 5-speed tip but this is a great help for poeple out there who enjoy there auto's


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (DerVogelBenannteMyst)*

the tip has some of the same components, at least when it comes to this stuff. so it can help some. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## DerVogelBenannteMyst (Jun 9, 2008)

*Re: (rychas1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rychas1* »_the tip has some of the same components, at least when it comes to this stuff. so it can help some. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

i did not know that. i havent looked into it to much. but i need to start. my tranny is shifting hard and im getting close to 60k witch is when i want to fo t-belt and trans fluid.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rxfx101)*

i just realized i never answered you back. im sorry. but if u cant connect via vag (or vad) its the tcu, not this. check the tcu is plugged in or even good for that matter. swap a known good tcu, reset basic settings, then try to scan http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## sys3175 (Jan 26, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rychas1* »_well my camcorder take horrible pics. luckily i figured out how to use my fluorescent shop lamp to help that situation http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif i just held the lamp behind the camera.

Yeah, Florescent work well with camcorders. I use a Canon 20D SLR with DayFlo Florescent studio lights myself..







Of course, I'm more a photographer then mechanic..


----------



## vwdrajver (Jul 21, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

Excellent post. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I have just one question:
Shouldnt you get a bit more than just the two drops (if i understood corectly)?
I think your oil level is a bit too low.
Bye, Blaz.


----------



## divineVR6 (Mar 21, 2002)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (vwdrajver)*

so this is the harness for each solenoid. is this the similar process for the 3rd gear solenoid wire loom i had talked to you about?
i have the rest of the car fixed now, last part is the 3rd gear, its in limp mode do you remember talkin to me about it?
good write up 
people do read an pay attention to these


----------



## wolfsbur (Dec 11, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (divineVR6)*

Anything that helps folks feel more able to try their own 096/01M repairs is a good thing--great post!
Thanks...


----------



## moveovr1 (May 27, 2008)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (wolfsbur)*

I changed the oil 180,000 miles and still pulling as if she was new


----------



## Dorin18 (May 18, 2008)

*Re: (rychas1)*

rychas1, I'm having some problems with my 01m. VAG-com gives me a code related with solenoid 6 or harness. I just checked the solenoid and seems to be ok (4.5 ohms) so I'm thinking the harness is bad.
Can you tell me, please, where you found your cable and how much you paid for it?


----------



## divineVR6 (Mar 21, 2002)

*Re: (Dorin18)*

http://www.bulkpart.com/Mercha...unt=2

is a link to the harness he gave me a while back


----------



## Dorin18 (May 18, 2008)

*Re: (divineVR6)*

Thank you!
I'll remove the harness today and see if there s anything that I can do to fix it. If not...I'll buy a new one.
And thanks for the R&I post!


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (Dorin18)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif keep us posted!


----------



## Dorin18 (May 18, 2008)

*Re: (rychas1)*

I removed the harness and checked for continuity. I found one open circuit (the one for solenoid 6, as the vag-com software said).
The problem was located in that plastic block that connects the inside ribbon to the outside wires. My particular wire was broken inside that connector. Since I wanted to use the car asap, I drilled a small hole in the connector, put a small piece of wire through it and solder it on both sides to the corresponding wire and pin.
I double-checked for continuity and everything is ok.
I will install it tomorrow, pun new ATF (probably Mercon V) and filter and take it for a spin.
BTW, my old ATF was quite dirty (115KMiles) so I plan to do another fluid change after a few miles.


----------



## divineVR6 (Mar 21, 2002)

*Re: (Dorin18)*

how much of a pain is it to replace the solenoid. from the pics it looks like you just have to remove those 6 bolts on the side and pull it out..?


----------



## Dorin18 (May 18, 2008)

*Re: (divineVR6)*

Removing the solenoid is the easy part. As you said, you need just to remove the plate that holds the solenoid in place.
For me, the real pain was to remove the harness plugs from solenoids without destroying them. It seems that I didn't do a good job and most of my plugs were damaged. I realized that when I wanted to reinstall the old harness: 5 out of 7 plugs did not stay in place by their own. I had to do an unorthodox thing and tie them down with a piece of wire.
Even now I don't know how to remove the plugs without destroying the plastic clips. I tried with a small flat head screwdriver and it seemed to thick so I used a small piece of metal cut from a soda can. Even with that I didn't have much success in getting the plugs out easily. There must be a secret trick out there...


----------



## jljohnson85 (Jan 29, 2003)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

Dude this write up is awesome. Mad props to you.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (jljohnson85)*

thx. i just got fed up with 0 information readily available for this common issu with 4 speeds. it was long overdue. to all that benefit http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif


----------



## divineVR6 (Mar 21, 2002)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

so its my 3rd gear thats messing up, so is the just the 3rd solenoid back from the front of the tranny?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (divineVR6)*

what solenoid does vagcom say?


----------



## divineVR6 (Mar 21, 2002)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

3rd. so its it the 3rd solenoid from the front of the tranny or the back of the tranny. front as in the rad side or back as in the firewall


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (divineVR6)*

no, if its n90 (#3 solenoid), that actually 4th position back from front of car/tranny.


----------



## divineVR6 (Mar 21, 2002)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

thanks


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (divineVR6)*


----------



## jljohnson85 (Jan 29, 2003)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

Ok well I have an issue with my 01m and I figured I might ask it here because I think it might be related.
My car stays in third gear 95% of the time. It will shift into fourth very very rarely. I can never seem to find the exact conditions and its never reproduce able. When it does shift into fourth it will kick down into third when I slow or mash the accelerator. It WONT shift down into second or first though. When I come to a stop my trans will slam and all the lights on the gear selection will light up.
When I unplug my TCM I can get 1st and 3rd if I manually select gears but it will never go up into 4th and the shifts are very rough.
I it scanned by a generic OBD2 scanner and got code P0763 Shift Solenoid Circuit C Electrical. Is this a symptom of a bad wire loom or solenoid? How can I test the solenoid wires without dropping the pan?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (jljohnson85)*

none of my documents show generic codes for the transmission, so i dont know for sure which solenoid that is. run vag-com, then we can talk. but it sounds typical frayed harness/solenoid stuck.


----------



## Dorin18 (May 18, 2008)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (jljohnson85)*

You can unplug the male wire harness plug from the top of the transmission and measure the resistance between the exposed pins.
You should see the plug that it is pointed with an arrow below (called case connector in the manual):








Below you should see the top view of the connector and the way the ribbon cable attaches to the solenoids (observe their position inside the valve body in case you need to change one):








And here is the table with the solenoids resistance:








It is a little hard to bend over and use both of your hands to measure resistance between two pins... To free one hand, I used one wire with a small connector at one end, connector that I adjust a little bit to fit over one single pin. You can find something like this in toys, computers or other electronics. Let me see if I can make a picture...








Well, it is a little blurry, but you can get the idea.
Good luck!
And one more thing. If you need to change a solenoid you will probably reuse the old harness. If you manage to break some clips (like I did), the plug will not stay on by itself. You have to help it stay.
Here is a picture of my solenoids


















_Modified by Dorin18 at 6:57 AM 9-22-2008_


----------



## divineVR6 (Mar 21, 2002)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (Dorin18)*

wheres a simple question, on those trannys where do you Refill them? i see where you can drain but at what point on the tranny do you put the fluid in?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (divineVR6)*

the plug on top.


----------



## jljohnson85 (Jan 29, 2003)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (Dorin18)*

Thank you Dorin18, that is EXACTLY what I needed.


----------



## divineVR6 (Mar 21, 2002)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rychas1* »_the plug on top.

havent noticed a plug yet. havent really dove into it yet. i do see where the tranny cooler is on top, i suppose its near there?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (divineVR6)*

no. its near the front top edge. it easiest way to see it is to look from underneath. once u see the tranny near the left (drivers side) front. its right there. red cap.


----------



## divineVR6 (Mar 21, 2002)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

thanks


----------



## diesel-up (Mar 26, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (divineVR6)*

So on my 1994 passat when I start it there is no tranny pressure and after it runs for a few seconds it squeels as if it has to much pressure and the tranny wont shift correctly only 1st and 3rd. Just bought Hex-usb+CAN Vag-com and no codes.Unplug a connector and codes show. But the ATF temp keeps rising the longer the car runs.Got another AD TCU for it and still nothing. Any ideas?


----------



## divineVR6 (Mar 21, 2002)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (diesel-up)*

if the temp keeps rising could be a possibility that your tranny cooler is clogged. it sits right there on top of the tranny. i dont know what else it could be although im sure there's many other posibilities


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (divineVR6)*

the internal harness hoses the ATF temp sensor. if temps are just stupid for the conditions (say, idling), then its the harness http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Dorin18 (May 18, 2008)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (diesel-up)*

I would add 200-400 ml of ATF to see the reaction. If you don't see an improvement just remove the exact amount of fluid.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (divineVR6)*

just changed out the n90 solenoid on my 02m tonite...shifts perfect!! will redline each gear and downshifts with no clunks. upshifts are smooth and precise. i love it!!!!!!!!!!!! didnt take pics, but it was so easy







t20 for the bolts to remove solenoid holding bracket.


----------



## divineVR6 (Mar 21, 2002)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

is n90 the 3rd gear solenoid?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (divineVR6)*

yes. 4th back from front. that was keeping me in limp mode. not anymore


----------



## diesel-up (Mar 26, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

So I pulled the codes and this is what came up,
00638 Engine/transmission electrical connection 03-10 No signal intermittent
00545 Engine/transmission electrical connection 31-00 open or short.
Any ideas......Thanks


----------



## herb2k (Jul 29, 2007)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (diesel-up)*

Check/replace the solenoid wiring harness...
Can anyone let me know the "trick" to unlocking the locking ring for the harness? I tried squeezing two sides of it but it just doesn't seem to budge!


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (herb2k)*


_Quote, originally posted by *herb2k* »_Check/replace the solenoid wiring harness...
Can anyone let me know the "trick" to unlocking the locking ring for the harness? I tried squeezing two sides of it but it just doesn't seem to budge!

o yes, i remember that sucka. squeeze harder!!







and try to lift one side at a time.


----------



## dansXR2 (Jul 30, 2007)

I'm getting a code for the #7 Solenoid. I'm new to automatics and find this post VERY informative. I'm gonna try testing the resistance of the #1&#10 pins and see if I have a short. I hit a bump when it was okay for a while, and the bump kicked limp mode back in... Probably a messed up ribbon?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (dansXR2)*

broken ribbon, bad connector connection (main to internal), tcu, or something else. start with the basics. check codes, connections, and resistance. go from there. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## godutch (Mar 8, 2008)

*Re: (Dorin18)*

easiest way to remove the wire harness is to use a butter knive - which is wider than a flathead screwdriver, put the knife between the valve body and the plug - so in essance the knife lays on top of the wire, and then slightly angle the knive toward to plug - and the plug will just jump out. One at the time. Easy as slicing pie. I have done it more that 15 times sofar without damaging the wire. Valve bodies are pieces of crap. Difficult to isolate the problem.


----------



## crazeehorse (Nov 16, 2008)

this post is awesome, & the valve body teardown is too. i have the harness, & the printed circuit foil ordered. i should have it by the end of the week. i have'nt read the whole post yet, but thanks ahead of time. they told me at the dealer, the harness, & the pc foil come in two parts. mine was soldered,(the damaged one) but the tech said it should plug together.


----------



## dansXR2 (Jul 30, 2007)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4118194
Where should I start? Power/Ground? Where are their locations?


----------



## crazeehorse (Nov 16, 2008)

i have a 2001 bettle, i am replacing the same parts as in this post. when i'm done with the repair, will i be able to reset the 01M transmission, by turning on the key, holding the gas pedal to the floor for 5 secs. ? or, will i have to have software, or take to someone that does?


----------



## Thumper1044 (May 8, 2007)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (royer25)*

I am sorry to hear that you feel people do not appreciate posts here. I have printed many of the posts and am assembling my own version of the Vortex Bentley. Yes, I do have the Bentley manual also, but I so often often find that the posts here are much more detailed and actually done by mechanics. I haven't needed the DIY cleaning of the valve body yet, but I truely appreciate having the info if and when I do. Many on this site have helped me and that is what keeps my VW running. Here is my thank you to all for their time and efforts to create their technical posts.
Thumper


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (crazeehorse)*

u can do the mechanical reset too. and its more like 10 sec. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## YYeahoo (Jan 18, 2009)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

This Post is awesome ....... Just what I was looking For. I wanted Pictures and good info and you have provided it. I'm about to tear into A 2001 Cabrio. I have rang out the Solenoids coils from the external connector and found EV-7 (N94) Pins 1 and 10 (spec 55 to 65 Ohms) ringing 291 ohms.... way out of spec. I have the Solenoid resistance spec I can email to anyone who is interested. I'm not a VW fan but I'm a fan of saving a few bucks for my daughter. Great info buddy and thanks so much for your effort and willingness to help others.


----------



## Z-Raddo G60 (Nov 8, 2007)

*Re: (dansXR2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dansXR2* »_...code for the #7 Solenoid... I'm gonna try testing the resistance of the #1&#10 pins...

Did you test out the resistance on the "suspected" solenoid?

_Quote, originally posted by *dansXR2* »_...hit a bump...was okay for a while and the bump kicked limp mode back in...

Could this be a faulty or loose connector? What came of the replacement cable?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (YYeahoo)*

im glad it was useful. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## rinux1 (Apr 15, 2009)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (Dorin18)*

i check all the pins and the sensor temp is with 280k ohms, do you thing this could do the transmission to be in limp mode?, i have a golf 97, and only get third gear and reverse, somethimes reverse kills the engine, but with out the tmc i get fisrt and third and reverse with no problems at all


_Modified by rinux1 at 2:30 PM 4-23-2009_


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rinux1)*

100% in limp mode. reset it and see.


----------



## rinux1 (Apr 15, 2009)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

do i need to change the wire harness first, and reset or reset and see whats going to happen? how do i reset manually ?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rinux1)*

reset before anything. tuen key on, press gas to floor for 15 sec, turn key off, release gas pedal, start car while touching nothing, let sit for 5 min, enjoy


----------



## rinux1 (Apr 15, 2009)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

mmm... i did the reset but din't work, now i have codes p1613 (mill call up / short to b+), p0730 incorrect gear ratio, and p0440 evaporative emission system, any sugestion???


----------



## Z-Raddo G60 (Nov 8, 2007)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rinux1)*

is it ok to do the 096 reset anytime for really no reason other than to see if it changes any?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (Z-Raddo G60)*

yes.anytime is a good time. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rinux1)*

that sounds like an ecu code rather than a tcu code. u need to reset everything!! ecu and tcu, then try to pull codes.


----------



## Z-Raddo G60 (Nov 8, 2007)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rychas1* »_that sounds like an ecu code rather than a tcu code. u need to reset everything!! ecu and tcu, then try to pull codes.

how to do the DCU reset procedure?
i understand the TCU: key on, press and hold gas peddle > 15 seconds, turn off, release, start and drive


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (Z-Raddo G60)*

unplug battery for 10 min or reset with vagcom.


----------



## rinux1 (Apr 15, 2009)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

this is what i did, disconnect the battery for 8 hrs, start the car with out touching anything till gets the first cycle of the fan, put the car in drive with the parking brake for a minute and drive... well i didn't drive, so i try the key on press gas 15 seconds, turn off, release gas, turn on sit for 5 mins and drive... didn't happen, so i got this codes P1613 mil call up circuit short to b+, P0730 incorrect gear ratio, and P0440 evaporative emission system, still in limp mode for some reason, suggestions are welcome,


----------



## rinux1 (Apr 15, 2009)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

i disconnect the battery and the ecu for 20 mins, reconnect everything again and the car start driving again, but slips a little when in first and second, only in the first ride, after that runs ok for a while until gets hot and go to a limp mode, the difference is if i reset with the "turn key on press gass 15 sec..." i get all the gear again, i check the codes and the only one i have is a P0131 i think is the o2 sensor, do you think this is the real problem???


----------



## rinux1 (Apr 15, 2009)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rinux1)*

ok here we go, after i read some manuals of the transmission, i found this, check the pressure of the transmission, but i going to explain later because still working on it, but i think this could be a problem, i check the harness but we have to check the valves in case they are plug


----------



## dpitassi (May 1, 2009)

I am told I need a new wire harness for my transmission to get it out of limp mode (stuck in 3rd). 
How much would I expect to pay for the harness and to have it installed? And does anyone know of a good place in St Louis to take my 2001 Jetta? 
Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (dpitassi)*

just on time alone, i know it will be about 2 hrs. they may have a general charge time of even 5 hrs. going rates are usually 70-90/hr. do the math. and then do it yourself. its so easy.


----------



## P08854 (Jun 2, 2009)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

Awesome write-up rychas1 - I love you man! Followed your instructions to the T and got my harness out tonight... the 7 solenoids in my 99 VR6 Jetta tested perfectly but got some strange readings when connected to the harness - so i ordered a new harness for 115 shipped... ain't bad if it works. Question: if you test the harness without anything attached to it, what readings should you get? have you tested your harness before you plugged it in? again, thanks man.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (P08854)*

i havent had to test my harness. but i cant imagine testing it with nothing attached.


----------



## MRosier (Sep 17, 2006)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

My VR6 jetta goes into limp mode, and im getting P0758 shift solenoid D circuit electrial (generic OBD2 scanner) I took a multimeter and tested all the pins on the round plug on the trans, everything is in spec (i left the code in the computer when I did this, I didnt erase it yet) what could be the cause here?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (MRosier)*

if u reset the tcu, and that code keeps popping up, just replace n89(ev2)--the first solenoid from the front. reset tcu again. should be good from there. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## MRosier (Sep 17, 2006)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

Alright ill try that. the solenoids cant be bought new though? gotta pull off from another trans?
i forgot to mention- i bought the car like this and first thing i did was clear the code. i drove it maybe 5 miles and the code came back. so then i popped all the plugs off the tranny and cleaned them with electrical parts cleaner and i probably put 25 miles on the car over the course of a week and the code never came back, smooth shifts, etc. thought for sure i fixed it.
but as soon as i had someone come test drive the car the code came back on the drive, go figure


_Modified by MRosier at 5:54 PM 6-8-2009_


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (MRosier)*

always buy new solenoids.
http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/75421A.html
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Z-Raddo G60 (Nov 8, 2007)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

how easy are these to replace?
is there other "little" things to do or replace?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (Z-Raddo G60)*

nope. very easy. if u can change oil, u can do this. just follow the DIY to the letter. i didnt picture in the solenoid change, but it really was just one more step. after the harness is off, just take off that bracket over the solenoids (held on by 6 small torx), unscrew the solenoid from its home and swap! its so easy, i really am surprised at the # of people whom would rather junk the car/ swap the tranny/ curse vws for poor design. imagine the labor at a dealer







all for the time it takes to change oil, swap oil and air filters, and clean your wheels


----------



## Z-Raddo G60 (Nov 8, 2007)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

is there a vag part number? like a nine digit/letter number to search for? just curious
edit:
found the part numbers:
119952 AFT VW 095/096/097/098: SHIFT 095-927-331A 
119952 SL VW 095/096/097/098: shift 095-927-331A 
119954 AFT VW 095/096: EPC 095-927-333 
119954 SL VW 095/096: EPC 095-927-333 
Do they look or which is what? I can't tell due to not having an exploded diagram to work with, and other information.


_Modified by Z-Raddo G60 at 11:23 AM 6-9-2009_


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (Z-Raddo G60)*

go back to the first page. i outline their orders.


----------



## jessiearac (Jun 10, 2009)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

Great work on the write up rychas1!! I've been following quite some time now and figured I'd post my progress. 
So I went from having all gears to only having 1st, 2nd and reverse and then to just having 1st. OBD II codes for all solenoids were popping up. I checked resistance from the pins at the main trans. plug....all within specs. I then checked the connector for power with a multimeter....I was getting 1.9 volts from pin 1 and 2.9 from pin 2, so the solenoids were not getting 12 volts. I removed the TCU.......







opened it up by removing the 4 screws...







heres how it looks without the housing and the square is where i found my problem....







one of the electrical components was burned, you could tell by the residue around it and notice the raise or "bump"......








So I replaced TCU checked connecter and wala....12 volts from pin 1 and still 2.9 from pin 2. Erased codes, scanned and was now getting codes for incorrect gear ration and shift solenoid D...great. So I dropped the pan and the first thing I saw was this.....







a locking pin like the one identified by the red arrow fellout and the spring was just hanging there and I found the end plug in the oil pan.....







oh man here we go....so i dropped the valve body, since I had to dissasemble it I went ahead and cleaned it all up replaced the spring and plug (making sure all parts were there) reassembled the body, checked wiring harness to assure I was getting 12 volts, put pan, refilled and ha ha ha why does this make me laugh...I only have 1st, 2nd and reverse, I'm hoping it just needs codes erased?????.....I won't have access to a scanner untill 5 hours from now, so then I'll post the outcome. I tried the manual resets but nothing changes, check engine still on, still in limp..... if anyones wanting to guess on what the outcome willbe just to see if there right...you have about 5 hours...i'll post later.....


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (jessiearac)*

geez, wow, geez!!! uve done work http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
my guess..? tcu needs 1 more reset. although the manual reset should do it. so that puzzles me also. keep us posted.


----------



## clackenalong (Jun 12, 2009)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

rychas - you're way better than Bentley. Unfortunately, following your post for some time now, I'm still at square-1 with my 02 Jetta TDI 01M and hope someone has an idea. Not just neutral between 3rd and 4th, but 3rd seems to stay in lockup for a moment when signaled to shift, engine cuts and then neutral before going into 4th. This has the effect of throwing you forward in the car for a moment at this shift. Releasing the gas pedal for a blip seems to change the gear quickly. Holding the pedal to the floor pegs the rev limiter before shifting. All gears seem to hold well and no meaningful slip when tranny actually decides to shift. Rather than step-by-step diagnosis, I just replaced the valve body in the 105K miles car: Central Valve Body rebuilt valve body with new solenoids. Harness seems to be good and have followed service bulletin on manual shift linkage position. Not sure what to check next - any ideas? Anyone?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (clackenalong)*

i cant stress this enough...you have to run codes first before beginning any work. it just makes it a gazillion times easier.
and thx for the compliment. i had no idea u guys were taking this that serious. i did it just to document so that i wouldnt forget and maybe someone would benefit. 
but, yes, run those codes!!


----------



## clackenalong (Jun 12, 2009)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

Thanks - don't have a vag-com, but no codes at all from the OBD II


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (clackenalong)*

obd2 readers dont always pull codes that vagcom does. ross tech talks about this all the time. there is a vagcom thread somewhere of people in your area that have them. even the dealer (last resort only!). hook up with someone. otherwise, it really is a stab in the dark and wallet. and it looks as thought u still have the option of manual reset of the tcu. try that!


_Modified by rychas1 at 1:20 PM 6-12-2009_


----------



## clackenalong (Jun 12, 2009)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

Appreciate the advice and am actively searching for someone with the Vagcom. Other than the goofy VW standards like interior trim falling apart, the car has been so good that there's been no justification until now (the first 01M was replaced under warranty at about 50K). 
Your DIY steps were great during the valve body replacement (but could have saved myself $100 in ATF if I had paid more attention to placement of the manual shift valve when reassembling).
Thanks again for the great post.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (clackenalong)*

i cant take credit for the valvebody DIY...that was *royer25*, not me.


----------



## P08854 (Jun 2, 2009)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

After replacing the harness the car shifts perfectly - thanks for this awesome writeup r... Question: my 99 vr6 calls for G052 162 A2 ATF - Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle ATF is compatible with 162 A1 but NOT the A2... can i use this or should i use ONLY A2? 
If not castrol then what other cheaper brand is out there? $25/qt at the vw dealer is an overkill - thanks man.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (P08854)*

$25 is an overkill, but considering what its going into...the transmission, its worth it to get it done right...once! the A1 _may_ work, but then there is always the 'what if'. on an older tranny, id say go for it. on a 99, i say stick with the pentosin. the following is not directed at you, but do consider this...people spend a lot of consideration on engine oil choices (syn vs dino) and there weights and brands, but all too often, ATF is the last thing on peoples minds. without it, car may run great, but car aint moving! think about it.


----------



## mikeymike (Mar 30, 2006)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

I have a quick question, I just changed the fluid and replaced the filter on my 1999 01m. I used a new gasket on the trans pan and it ran great for a couple weeks. However now there is trans fluid leaking from the new gasket on the pan and I cant figure out why? any help is appreciated!


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (mikeymike)*

make sure the gasket is not twisted or bunched. that can easily happen. or maybe u just didnt torque down enough. try it. ive never had a leak.


----------



## ptrapper65 (Jun 1, 2009)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (mikeymike)*

I just did the same (filter and gasket) on my 01m. When I started filling if with fluid it started to drip out from around the new gasket. I tightened the bolts a lttle more and wham, one stripped and the fluid came out even faster... I drove it to my local Tranny guy. I'm done. I have bad luck


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (ptrapper65)*

ouch. yea dont tighten that much. just 45* or so when it bites.


----------



## mikeymike (Mar 30, 2006)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

Yeah previous owner had stripped out the one bolt hole but luckily you can just drill those holes out and put on a through bolt. I guess I am going to try another gasket and hope that helps.


----------



## MRosier (Sep 17, 2006)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (mikeymike)*

So i did a solenoid change (n89) after my 01m was going into limp, but shifted fine when the code was cleared out.
also changed the filter and fluid obviously.
I Started the car and had 14 codes and all were related to the trans, codes for all solenoids came up. cleared them and took the car around the block and it still feels like its somewhat in limp mode, it doesnt wanna shift right. what could be the deal here?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (MRosier)*

throttle adaptation? sounds like the only thing missing. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## MRosier (Sep 17, 2006)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

how do i do that? isnt that something that it should do on its own? it feels like it hasnt learned the shift points or something


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (MRosier)*

no. clearing codes wont adapt the tb. that is separate. u can do it with vagcom or the manual way (key on, hold gas pedal 10 sec, key off, start car, touch nothing, wait 5 min, drive







) if that doesnt work, then we gotta make sure all codes (ecu and tcu) are gone. report back http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## MRosier (Sep 17, 2006)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

I tried doing the manual thing like 3 times before clearing the codes out. i disconnected the batt. for a few mins too. why would the TB randomly need readapting? and what does that have to do with the way it shifts?


----------



## pwcdoc (Jul 5, 2009)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

Great post !!
I have a 2001 Beetle 2.0 auto trans. It will not shift into third unless youback off throttle. Trans shifts well in all other positions and aspects. Yes I reset with key on and throttle to floor. No codes. No engine light. I replaced the third gear solenoid. Did not help Next I am going to Ohm the harness at the connector. 
Any othe rbright ideas?















Thansk in advance,
pwcdoc in Vegas


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (MRosier)*

on obd2, the tb is tied in with the tcu. shift points and such are tps regulated. i cant explain it beyond this, but i do know for a fact that anytime tcu codes are cleared, tb must be reset. bentley indicates this also, among other things, when to reset tb. tranny is one of them. disconnecting battery clears ecu, not tcu. resetting tb will also clear tcu manually (2 birds, 1 stone).


----------



## rinux1 (Apr 15, 2009)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

man this transmissions sucks! now i have slips in second and fourth and sometimes it feels like slipping in D when engage first,


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rinux1)*

no codes? fresh fluid, good level?


----------



## rinux1 (Apr 15, 2009)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

no codes, i change the fluid a month ago and the level is ok


----------



## pwcdoc (Jul 5, 2009)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

Always appreciate everyone's time and input.
Thanks again Rychas1. 
Ohm values for the harness is all within specs except the TFT Sensor. Which is at 164.8 instead of 190K-200K. Temp does not seem to affect the way it shifts. Does not change after warm up. I have reset manually a few times now. Car seems to be a little pepier, but no change in trans. I know shifts are also controlled by pressure. So is this a Valve body issue/ or is it the clutch pack?
Thanks in advance again for any and all input.
I will tell uoi a little history of the car. I picked it up a couple of weeks ago, and it had been overheated due to failure of the waterpump of course. Although seller did not tell me this. I discovered this on the way home. No biggie just kept AC on and it did not overheat.
I have heard that overheating can and does cause auto trans problems due to shared cooling design. Why VW did this remains a mystery.
Whatcha think?
pwcdoc in vegas!! And yes, it is hot as HELL!


----------



## pwcdoc (Jul 5, 2009)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

Anything I do, does not change this obviously mechanical issue. I do not know if you read my post. But OHM values are within specs for the internal harness at the connector, except the TFT Sensor. 164.8K instead of 190K-200K called for. Valve Body? Clutch Pack??
Thanks again,
Pwcdoc in Vegas


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (pwcdoc)*

sorry i couldnt reply sooner. honestly, i dont know about the clutch pack. valvebody possibly, yes. and that doesnt always throw a code either. it could use a good cleaning. see royer25's DIY. u could always just swap a known good tcu and see if any changes occur. the mk4 may have more ecu/tcu integration than the earlier cars, from what ive heard. u may have to reset them together at the same time (ecu and tcu) and then see what happens.
so recap..
1. ecu/tcu reset at the same time
2. tb adaptation with vagcom (many people forget this critical step)
3. swap good know tcu and see if any changes
4. new internal harness (since temp sensor is not reading to spec)
5. clean valvebody
6. reset tcu to default settings after every single change!
and as always, report back http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
o, and the tft sensor is built into the harness. so either way...new harness! but check the above first.


_Modified by rychas1 at 12:38 PM 7-8-2009_


----------



## pwcdoc (Jul 5, 2009)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

I always reset, new fluid and filter when I changed out N90 third gear solenoid. Harness a definate question regarding TFT Sensor, but would like to know if that would cause this or cause a fault reading and cause a type limp mode. But then I would get somekind of code thrown for TFT sensor. maybe not. ?
I would not mind dropping the Valve body, but worry about breaking solenoid clips. Wil have some more tests run at different repair facilities. Will see if VW will diag it for a nominal fee. Hah!


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (pwcdoc)*

yea if u have that access, definitely let them take a shot. then u know exactly what to fix. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif and the tft sensor may not throw a code. its in the harness!


----------



## ptrapper65 (Jun 1, 2009)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (ptrapper65)*

Just an update on my Tranny. The tranny guy hade the same problem. Turns out the pan was warped. He put a new pan on and no more leak. I was happy since it wasn't something I did.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (ptrapper65)*


----------



## pwcdoc (Jul 5, 2009)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

I swapped out internal harness. Trans seems a little more positve, but still will not shift into third without peddling throttle.
I did not drop valve body. Shouldhave now. I did pull all solenoids and c\hecked ohm values. All within specs. Pulled valve needles and all seem to move freely and had good spring response. I did notice on opposite side from shift solenoids, that there are a couple of plugs. are these supposed to be flush? or inset? The one directly opposite N90 seems like it might be backed out a bit. Is this spring pressure adjustment?
Or????


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (pwcdoc)*

any pics of this?


----------



## forumoto (Aug 12, 2008)

*THANKS FOR THIS POST*

I HAVE GOT SIMILAR PROBLEM, WHEREBY MY SELECTOR INDICATOR ON THE DASHBOARD COULD NOT SELECT THE APPROPRIATE LEVER, LETS SAY SHIFTING FROM P - R, as soon as i turn the key on, the selector will moved from P - D, when i move the shift to any level. instead of it to show the various selector that the lever moved through, it stuck at D, on the dashboard.. I want to know what is causing this..
Now if i want to order for solenoid. would i be given all the 7, with the colour coding to it. i am asking this because, 5 has brown/yellow colour, while 3 has black rubber tip where you plug the harners. please, i want to know, because i really want to order for all the 7 solenoid. thank you..
pls prescribe for me which type should i order on makcontrans. where 89$ type or 26 $ .. thanks i await to hear from you..
I would like to know if the selector which display in the dashboard also has a sensor


----------



## forumoto (Aug 12, 2008)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

I HAVE GOT SIMILAR PROBLEM, WHEREBY MY SELECTOR INDICATOR ON THE DASHBOARD COULD NOT SELECT THE APPROPRIATE LEVER, LETS SAY SHIFTING FROM P - R, as soon as i turn the key on, the selector will moved from P - D, when i move the shift to any level. instead of it to show the various selector that the lever moved through, it stuck at D, on the dashboard.. I want to know what is causing this..
Now if i want to order for solenoid. would i be given all the 7, with the colour coding to it. i am asking this because, 5 has brown/yellow colour, while 3 has black rubber tip where you plug the harners. please, i want to know, because i really want to order for all the 7 solenoid. thank you..
pls prescribe for me which type should i order on makcontrans. where 89$ type or 26 $ .. thanks i await to hear from you..
I would like to know if the selector which display in the dashboard also has a sensor


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: THANKS FOR THIS POST (forumoto)*

lets see if i can decipher your post.
for the solenoids...
order 5 of these..
http://www.bulkpart.com/Mercha...unt=0
and order 2 of these..
http://www.bulkpart.com/Mercha...unt=1
or just buy exactly what u need based upon the vagcom codes u get for the non-functioning solenoids.
the dash cluster gauge display is either a multifunction switch problem or a cluster problem. which exactly, im not 100% sure on, but its one of those.


----------



## forumoto (Aug 12, 2008)

I want to know the difference between the solenoid with white socket, and that of the brown, what does they do. differently before i must buy the white more, looking in my trans, there is no white, its all browish colour... and black 3, borwnish 4. therefore, please teach me by needed white more

Secondly i would like to know, why before, when i move my gear from P to R. i could hear the gear box, vibrate loudly, as if something is entering into something, its the only gear that gives such vibration....



_Modified by forumoto at 3:12 PM 7-16-2009_


----------



## YYeahoo (Jan 18, 2009)

*Re: (forumoto)*

Hi forumoto
I assume you have 096(01M) tranny..?
I found a guy on ebay (electricalproductsales) that helped me a lot with solenoids. he sold me individual solenoids. 
http://stores.ebay.com/electricaladvantageinc
At this time he has the wiring harness and set of solenoids for $259
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ories
I'm not a VW expert but I do have some info that helped me a lot with my problem which could email to you.
[email protected]


----------



## pwcdoc (Jul 5, 2009)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

Sorry for length of time passed before responding. Very busy and hot here in Vegas!
Update on my '01 Beetle trans; Took car to smog station. Could not smog. Attendant atated that I had not put enough miles on car since last battery disconnnect. It seems you must put atleast ten miles on these cars before ECM/TCU can readapt and sense Emmission system.
So I drove it to work and back. About ten miles each way, About two miles from home [18miles total] check engine light comes on. I plugged in OBD reader and there were two codes. Improper flow for secondary air injection, and left bank to lean. So I knew whathis meant and went for the vacuum lines to emmision vacuum mudule. Sure enough they were broken and rotted. I fixed them, did a manual reset. and next day tranny started shifting perfectly!!??
Drove it to work a couple more times, and still working. checked for codes and there were none. Took back to smog station and it passed perfectly. I am under the impression that this third gear issue may be a limp/default mode for the emission system problem.
The 01m does have limp modes, back up modes and auto adapting to driving condition modes throught the TCU.
Your thoughts?
pwcdoc


----------



## pwcdoc (Jul 5, 2009)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

I would like to add that the auto trans modes are covered in the owners manual. It states that if there is an electrical failure , trans will limp mode in THIRD. No matter what position selector is in. Except P and R of course.


----------



## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (pwcdoc)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pwcdoc* »_I am under the impression that this third gear issue may be a limp/default mode for the emission system problem.
The 01m does have limp modes, back up modes and auto adapting to driving condition modes throught the TCU. 

The trans will not go to failsafe for engine or emission related codes. If your scanning the ECM with generic, then you may not be getting all the codes. Your trans problem is probably intermittant and its fooling you, into thinking its gone.
Next time it acts up try scanning the TCM with VAG-Com.


----------



## forumoto (Aug 12, 2008)

Thanks very much, for the post replied by then i asked, the difference between the solenoid, which was left unanswered...


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (forumoto)*

white are shift solenoids, epc are brown (or black).


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (CoolAirVw)*

i was going to say this, but u beat me to it. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## forumoto (Aug 12, 2008)

thanks for the feed back, my boss. but you know what in my trans, i do not have white solenoid inside, all are brownish and black, therefore as you re prescribing me to buy white. would it function in replacement of the brownish..
Secondly do you know where i would get mk3 auto gear knob , either new or used


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (forumoto)*

exactly, white=brown. they are both shift solenoids. black=epc.\
get a knob from ebay or vortex classifieds.


----------



## MRosier (Sep 17, 2006)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

when I bought my VR6 the O1M was in limp mode. clear codes out- shifts perfect. Replaced solenoid N89 and changed fluid, no luck. car still feels stuck in 3rd gear and nothing changes when I clear the codes out.

finally got it hooked up to vag com- and these were the codes:
00264- solenoid valve 4 (N91)
31 - 10 open or short to ground - intermittent
01192 - torque converter lock up clutch
04 - 10 mechanical malfunction
can i get away with just changing the N91 solenoid? all the ohm values are in spec when I test the pins on the round trans plug with a multimeter


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (MRosier)*

yes. n91 applies torque converter clutch. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 2 birds, one stone.


----------



## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (MRosier)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MRosier* »_00264- solenoid valve 4 (N91)
31 - 10 open or short to ground - intermittent
01192 - torque converter lock up clutch
04 - 10 mechanical malfunction
can i get away with just changing the N91 solenoid? all the ohm values are in spec when I test the pins on the round trans plug with a multimeter

If it were mine I would try the n91. Its cheap enough that you can give it a try. 
But.. There is a slight chance you have two problems. 01192 is common, so point being you could have the solenoid problem and another problem causing the 01192.


----------



## MRosier (Sep 17, 2006)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (CoolAirVw)*

cool, im gonna swap the new solenoid i bought from the n89 position and stick it in n91 and put the original n89 solenoid back in.


----------



## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

_Quote, originally posted by *MRosier* »_cool, im gonna swap the new solenoid i bought from the n89 position and stick it in n91 and put the original n89 solenoid back in.

N91 = 3 ohms
n89 = 60 ohms
Wont work

_Modified by CoolAirVw at 11:07 AM 7-28-2009_


_Modified by CoolAirVw at 11:25 AM 7-28-2009_


----------



## rinux1 (Apr 15, 2009)

*Re: (CoolAirVw)*

i have some problems with a my transmission, is slipping when engage second and forth, what do you think it could be? no codes with a obd11 i don't have the vag


_Modified by rinux1 at 11:42 AM 7-28-2009_


----------



## MRosier (Sep 17, 2006)

*Re: (CoolAirVw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CoolAirVw* »_N91 = 3 ohms
n89 = 60 ohms
Wont work

_Modified by CoolAirVw at 11:07 AM 7-28-2009_

I thought all the shift solenoids were the same?
this is where i ordered the solenoid from before: http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/75421A.html
it says order 6 for a set.. so there must not be a difference.. i know what youre saying about the resistance though n89 is 55-65 ohm and n91 is 4.5-5.1


_Modified by MRosier at 2:20 PM 7-28-2009_


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (MRosier)*

they are not the same. i can see the confusion. the n91=n93 (EPC). the others are the shift solenoids.


_Modified by rychas1 at 11:35 AM 7-28-2009_


----------



## MRosier (Sep 17, 2006)

*Re: (rychas1)*

so where can i order a n91 solenoid?


----------



## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

*Re: (rinux1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rinux1* »_i have some problems with a my transmission, is slipping when engage second and forth, what do you think it could be? no codes with a obd11 i don't have the vag

So now you have slips in 2nd and 4th?? With as many transmission related problems as you have posted about you better get the VAG. Or since you dont have the VAG and since there isn't a fix posted for any of the others I'll suggest you should probably just take the car to a good trans mechanic.
Auto trans posts created by rinux1
code P0740 after a long drive blown pan gasket help! 
Forum » Automatic Transmission Forum
Creator » rinux1 9:21 PM 7-17-2009
torque converter or shifting cable adjust? 
Forum » Automatic Transmission Forum
Creator » rinux1 8:21 PM 6-9-2009
help with a new project !!! 
Forum » Automatic Transmission Forum
Creator » rinux1 11:12 AM 6-2-2009
arrrrrggg!!!! no 4 gear please help to the gurus 
Forum » Automatic Transmission Forum
Creator » rinux1 10:29 PM 5-27-2009
transmission pressure check DIY ( testing pressure selenoid ) 
Forum » Automatic Transmission Forum
Creator » rinux1 1:30 PM 5-4-2009
transmission slips at any gear code p0730 
Forum » Automatic Transmission Forum
Creator » rinux1 8:39 PM 4-14-2009


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (MRosier)*

the same site! next one down...
http://www.bulkpart.com/Mercha...unt=1


----------



## rinux1 (Apr 15, 2009)

*Re: (CoolAirVw)*

well if i wanted to take the car to a mechanic, i wouldn't be asking in this forum, the goal is to do it yourself, that is the forum for, am i wrong?, thanks anyway i thank you for the time you take to answer


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (rinux1)*

he is saying that the obd2 reader may not give all codes that vagcom may show. check the regional forums are try to find someone local with one. it really does pay for itself.


----------



## rinux1 (Apr 15, 2009)

*Re: (rychas1)*

thanks richas1, i think that best to do, really good post by the way, very useful post http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

*Re: (rinux1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rinux1* »_thanks richas1, i think that best to do, really good post by the way, very useful post http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Somehow I feel blighted. But I'm ok, cuz I'm smart enough, I'm good enough, and dammit people like me.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (CoolAirVw)*

you are awesome!


----------



## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

No your awesome! You've got MAD trans skills! You help people! 
Where'd ya learn all your trans stuff at?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (CoolAirVw)*

crying, bleeding over my many auto trannies. plus i just read diagrams over and over. i am a novice, honestly.


----------



## MRosier (Sep 17, 2006)

*Re: (rychas1)*

ok so I still havent had any luck fixing this damn trans. 
are these trannys finicky about the trans fluid level? like if its too low will it not shift?
a quick run down:
purchased car with a CEL (in limp mode) so i cleared it and it shifted perfectly for days before the CEL came back. generic scanner said shift solenoid D 
was told by rychas to replace N89, so I did and cleared codes, would not shift at all. basically the symptoms got worse after I did that. I put in new oem fluid..
however no CEL ever came back after that...so I got it hooked up to VAG and it told me solenoid N91 open or short to ground...
replaced that solenoid with a low ohm one that coolairvw sold to me and there was absolutely no improvement from before I changed the solenoid. only thing I got was an immediate CEL for shift solenoid D again (generic OBD2 scanner)
however I reused the fluid that I drained out, and it wasnt quite enough because nothing ever drained out during the refill. 
please help me get this thing fixed! I dont have direct access to VAG, I have to take it up to eip tuning for them to do it


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (MRosier)*

i am sorry that still no luck, but hey, u got rid of the CEL







nonetheless, if u have 0 codes, fluid is the right type/level, filter new, and all that jazz, then it HAS to be the lack of a vagcom not pulling up a certain code that _is_ your issue. having that vagcom makes a difference! did u post in the south forum for vagcom help?? did u go by the dealer? they can scan and make a recommendation, but u dont have to get the work done there.


----------



## MRosier (Sep 17, 2006)

*Re: (rychas1)*

well no, now i have a code for shift solenoid D which is back where I started. at one point I wasnt getting a code with the obd2 scanner. as soon as i changed the N91 solenoid which is the one that vag com came up with when i took it up to EIP tuning, the code came back with my obd2 scanner. the fluid level is low, when i refilled it for the 2nd time i didnt have anymore to top it off, no fluid drained out of the hole when i was filling it which is why i asked if itll not shift if it has low fluid


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (MRosier)*

correct. incorrect fluid (too high or low) will not shift. get that right!! it should drip out of the hole. make sure its warm.


----------



## 1997993 (Jan 10, 2008)

*Re: (rychas1)*

subscribed for info


----------



## xvdubtunerx (Oct 12, 2007)

*Re: (1997993)*

alrighty-- I read up and did my hmwk and so hopefully I won't be wasting anyones time with noobery...
I have a 1997 Jetta with the auto tranny. Not sure if thats an 096 or a 01m but its been shifting like piss for months and I just got a CEL with code P0740 - torque converter clutch solenoid circuit.
I don't have/know anyone with VAGCOM, but before I continue some background:
car was in an accident, and some tranny fluid was lost. I've since checked it and it appears to still be leaking a bit. I'm going to dig into it and fix whatever it is thats bent or broken. I also just did a head gasket job and replaced the head, as it was warped and leaking water into the oil. (at the same time, the water pump, thermostat, and various other items were replaced).
I read that vacuum signature affects these trannies with their adaptive whatever junk, so I did a "reset" of the tranny using the Bentley instructions of holding down the accel. pedal. CEL stayed on and nothing appeared to change.
SO i searched the net and found nothing relevant to my OBD2 code, and so I came here to this thread because frankly I didn't know what else do to.
Tranny was supposedly replaced just before we bought it, but **** all if i know if thats true or not. 
In any case -- these are the resistance readings I got from the round plug to the solenoids:
EV-1: 100ohms
EV-2: 120ohms
EV-3: 70ohms
EV-4: 5 ohms
EV-5: 160 ohms
EV-6: 5ohms
Ev-7: 120ohms
TFT: infinity on x10 scale, between 500 and 100 on x1k scale
it appears to me that either the harness or the solenoid (or both!) are bad -- except ev3, ev4, ev6, and the tft appear to check ok. the ambient air temperature today when I measured was between 90 and 100 degrees all day though, and the ohm readings earlier in this thread were spec at 70-something degrees -- so not sure if my readings are within spec or wayyy out of whack. that's my first question.
my second question is, am I barking up the wrong tree?
my theory is thus:
my brother had his accident
tranny lost fluid
began running like piss
tranny continued losing fluid
overheated
harness fried
result: CEL and terrible shifting.
am I on the right track here folks? help would be appreciated. My next step, assuming you guys think I'm on the right path -- is to replace the filter, fluid, and harness/solenoids. I'm also going to determine if the pan or something else is responsible for the leak.
THANKS!!!

_Modified by xvdubtunerx at 5:13 PM 8-27-2009_


_Modified by xvdubtunerx at 6:26 PM 8-27-2009_


----------



## rxfx101 (Sep 29, 2003)

*Re: (xvdubtunerx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *xvdubtunerx* »_alrighty-- I read up and did my hmwk and so hopefully I won't be wasting anyones time with noobery...
t. 
In any case -- these are the resistance readings I got from the round plug to the solenoids:
EV-1: 100ohms
EV-2: 120ohms
EV-3: 70ohms
EV-4: 5 ohms
EV-5: 160 ohms
EV-6: 5ohms
Ev-7: 120ohms
TFT: infinity on x10 scale, between 500 and 100 on x1k scale
my second question is, am I barking up the wrong tree?
my theory is thus:
my brother had his accident
tranny lost fluid
began running like piss
tranny continued losing fluid
overheated
harness fried
result: CEL and terrible shifting.
am I on the right track here folks? help would be appreciated. My next step, assuming you guys think I'm on the right path -- is to replace the filter, fluid, and harness/solenoids. I'm also going to determine if the pan or something else is responsible for the leak.
THANKS!!!

_Modified by xvdubtunerx at 5:13 PM 8-27-2009_

_Modified by xvdubtunerx at 6:26 PM 8-27-2009_

ok well solenoid's 4 and 6 are supposed to be around 4.5-6.5 ohms, the other 5 are supposed to be 55-65 ohms. 
so i agree they are out of spec and it seems it could be the cable. 
spec's:
sol. 1 -N88-
sol. 2 -N89-
sol. 3 -N90-
sol. 5 -N92-
sol. 7 -N94-
all 55-65 ohms
sol 4. -N91-
sol 6 -N93-
all 4.5-6.5 ohms


----------



## xvdubtunerx (Oct 12, 2007)

*Re: (rxfx101)*

ok-- so you don't think the extremely warm ambient air temps had anything to do with it? 
I'm going to open her up today and see what I find. pictures to come. Do you guys think this is the problem resulting in my OBD2 p0740 code?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (xvdubtunerx)*

as stated before, your 4 and 6 are with norms, the others are not. that means harness. the harness could also mean the TCC code will show up. TCC is controlled by ev4, which is in spec, but still...signals are not getting around, thus the code.
solution...change harness, recheck specs, but be prepared to also change the out of spec solenoids once the codes are cleared and the test drive. the harness may solve it all. get to work http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## joshsjetta (Feb 3, 2009)

*Re: (rychas1)*

I've read thru this topic at least 3 times now and think I have a grasp on things.
N88, N89, N90, N92, N94 shift solenoids
N91, N93 pressure solenoids
I have no codes but am getting a hard shift from 2nd-3rd. See this post: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4537361
Replacing N93 has been recommended, but since it only occurs during 2nd-3rd I think N93 is functioning properly. I'm leaning towards shift solenoids at this point.
What steps would you recommend at this point? Checking resistance, etc? I appreciate any advice/help you can give. Thanks!


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (joshsjetta)*

even without codes, do the tcu relearn/tb adaptation (stated throughout the thread and the beginning) just to be sure. then, i would check resistance at the round plug(the harness plug into the ribbon). determine that, and then replaced solenoids accordingly. i will tell you corresponding solenoids when you get back to me on that.


----------



## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

*Re: (xvdubtunerx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *xvdubtunerx* »_I have a 1997 Jetta with the auto tranny. Not sure if thats an 096 or a 01m but its been shifting like piss for months and I just got a CEL with code P0740 - torque converter clutch solenoid circuit.

P0740 really doesn't mean TCC solenoid circuit. This is why folks need vag-com. 
P0740 corresponds to VAg-code 01192 which means tcc slip. 
BIG DIFFERENCE!
I fixed 01192 in the following thread. 
http://forums.tdiclub.com/show...t=01m


----------



## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

*Re: (joshsjetta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *joshsjetta* »_I've read thru this topic at least 3 times now and think I have a grasp on things.
N88, N89, N90, N92, N94 shift solenoids
N91, N93 pressure solenoids
I have no codes but am getting a hard shift from 2nd-3rd. See this post: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4537361
Replacing N93 has been recommended, but since it only occurs during 2nd-3rd I think N93 is functioning properly. I'm leaning towards shift solenoids at this point.
What steps would you recommend at this point? Checking resistance, etc? I appreciate any advice/help you can give. Thanks!

I posted in your thread.....


----------



## joshsjetta (Feb 3, 2009)

*Re: (rychas1)*

Thanks. I will test the solenoids and get back to you with my findings.


----------



## al bundy (May 17, 2006)

Hi guys. 
I have a problem with a 4-speed automatic gearbox on a Golf MK3 motor AAA. 
The car goes over the place with step 1, change in step 2 and after 2 sec is to 1, increasing engine speed, passing and in 2 and is 1 and so on. 
ATF level is good, I have no error code on the machine.


----------



## joshsjetta (Feb 3, 2009)

*Re: (rychas1)*

Finally got a Fluke. Here are my resistance readings:
EV-1 N88 82ohms
EV-2 N89 154ohms
EV-3 N90 69ohms
EV-4 N91 5.3ohms
EV-5 N92 84ohms
EV-6 N93 5.1ohms
EV-7 N94 67ohms
TFT 75 on K scale
Although N88 and N92 are a little off, N89 is way out of whack. If I am correct, N89 is the 2nd gear solenoid. That would make sense why 2nd-3rd shifts are harsh at times. Your thoughts/suggestions?




_Modified by joshsjetta at 3:05 PM 9-22-2009_


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (joshsjetta)*

everything is off, but n93 (barely). cable for sure! n89 is a 2nd gear solenoid, not _the_ 2nd gear solenoid. do work... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (al bundy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *al bundy* »_ 
Hi guys. 
I have a problem with a 4-speed automatic gearbox on a Golf MK3 motor AAA. 
The car goes over the place with step 1, change in step 2 and after 2 sec is to 1, increasing engine speed, passing and in 2 and is 1 and so on. 
ATF level is good, I have no error code on the machine.


not sure i fully understand this... please restate.


----------



## joshsjetta (Feb 3, 2009)

*Re: (rychas1)*

Well, I had already ordered the solenoid so I will try that first. If it doesn't help, I know what to replace next.








Also, would measuring resistance at a temp higher than 72degrees affect results? I just realized I had checked resistance when the car was still hot.
Thanks for your help










_Modified by joshsjetta at 10:49 PM 9-22-2009_


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (joshsjetta)*

its supposed to be up to that temp before anything is done, so its accurate.


----------



## joshsjetta (Feb 3, 2009)

*Re: (rychas1)*

Replaced N89 solenoid today. I was surprised at how easy it was to replace. Anyway, the first thing I noticed after a drive was no delay from P to D. Second, first to second and second to third seemed to have smoothed out. Third, I re-measured resistance at the connector, and boy was I surprised. All solenoids are now measuring within spec...mainly N89.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (joshsjetta)*

well done, son http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif i love seeing guys work on the autos, with success!


----------



## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

*Re: (joshsjetta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *joshsjetta* »_If I am correct, N89 is the 2nd gear solenoid. That would make sense why 2nd-3rd shifts are harsh at times. Your thoughts/suggestions?

N89 has no dealings with "feel" of the shift. It controls B2 brake which is on in 2nd and 4th. In theory failure of the N89 wont effect shift feel. 
I'm glad it fixed your problem.


----------



## joshsjetta (Feb 3, 2009)

*Re: (rychas1)*

Thanks! Hopefully I can enjoy this success for awhile...mainly no more trans issues. Regular fluid changes and the addition of an air to oil cooler really seemed to have helped.


----------



## joshsjetta (Feb 3, 2009)

*Re: (CoolAirVw)*

[/quote]

_Quote, originally posted by *CoolAirVw* »_
N89 has no dealings with "feel" of the shift. It controls B2 brake which is on in 2nd and 4th. In theory failure of the N89 wont effect shift feel. 
I'm glad it fixed your problem. 


Forgive my noobness, but what is B2 brake? What exactly does N89 do? It seems I was off on my assumptions








Also, what affects the "feel" of the shift? I appreciate your technical expertise!




_Modified by joshsjetta at 3:17 PM 9-25-2009_


----------



## FL 2.0L (Aug 1, 2002)

joshsjetta:
Interested in your air to oil cooler mod. What kind of shifting problems did you have that made you think a cooler mod would help? I really think if I could keep my trans cool it would shift perfectly.


----------



## joshsjetta (Feb 3, 2009)

*Re: (FL 2.0L)*

I had occasional hard upshifts and downshifts and shift flare. Adding the cooler diminished those problems. Replacing the N89 solenoid completely eliminated them. I'm hoping the cooler will also slow my 01M's demise. I've heard reports of stock temps in the 240-250 range. Mine have averaged around 180 during the summer. With the temps dropping around here, my trans temps are now averaging around 170. Check out my diy I posted if you are thinking about adding a cooler: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4457289


----------



## FL 2.0L (Aug 1, 2002)

Thanks. I saw your DIY and it looks easily doable. My shifting issues do not occur until everything gets hot. I'm trying to get a plan together here for my trans with 64K. As soon as I got the car I dropped the pan and changed the fluid and filter. It looked pretty darn clean with absolutely no chunks and very little film on the magnet and pan. I have to believe this is an electrical issue that is brought on by high temps. It only acts up when it is up to temp on a hot day. I'm thinking trans cooler, wire harness and potentially any solenoid I find out of spec. How many miles were on your 01M when it started giving you problems? And how many miles have you driven since replacing the solenoid? I appreciate every bit of info I've gotten from you guys!


_Modified by FL 2.0L at 9:32 PM 9-30-2009_


----------



## FL 2.0L (Aug 1, 2002)

I'm trying to do as much research and investigating as I can to fix my 01M. My findings tonight checking resistance with an analog meter between pins at the end of the internal harness/wiring loom (measured cold on a 78* night):
EV-1 (N88) 61 Ohms
EV-2 (N89) 60 Ohms
EV-3 (N90) 60 Ohms
EV-4 (N91) 7 Ohms *pretty close to spec?*
EV-5 (N92) 61 Ohms
EV-6 (N93) 5 Ohms
EV-7 (N94) 62 Ohms
TFT Sensor 200K Ohms
Everything looks pretty good. Should I have used a digital meter? Should I have warmed the engine and trans a bit before getting readings? Any input welcome! Thanks!
Again, 01m with 64K which, when warm, has trouble getting into 4th or drops out of 4th (give it gas and it'll rev and go back into gear), and begins to upshift and downshift harshly as it gets hotter. Is the 4th gear trouble the torque converter not locking up? Would the higher resistance on N91 explain it?

_Modified by FL 2.0L at 10:33 PM 9-30-2009_


_Modified by FL 2.0L at 11:15 PM 9-30-2009_


----------



## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

*Re: (FL 2.0L)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FL 2.0L* »_I'm trying to do as much research and investigating as I can to fix my 01M. My findings tonight checking resistance with an analog meter between pins at the end of the internal harness/wiring loom (measured cold on a 78* night):
EV-1 (N88) 61 Ohms
EV-2 (N89) 60 Ohms
EV-3 (N90) 60 Ohms
EV-4 (N91) 7 Ohms *pretty close to spec?*
EV-5 (N92) 61 Ohms
EV-6 (N93) 5 Ohms
EV-7 (N94) 62 Ohms
TFT Sensor 200K Ohms
Everything looks pretty good. Should I have used a digital meter? Should I have warmed the engine and trans a bit before getting readings? Any input welcome! Thanks!
Again, 01m with 64K which, when warm, has trouble getting into 4th or drops out of 4th (give it gas and it'll rev and go back into gear), and begins to upshift and downshift harshly as it gets hotter. Is the 4th gear trouble the torque converter not locking up? Would the higher resistance on N91 explain it?

_Modified by FL 2.0L at 10:33 PM 9-30-2009_

_Modified by FL 2.0L at 11:15 PM 9-30-2009_

Are you gettting a solenoid code? If not then ohm checking is pointless.
A solenoid can fail internmittantly. (hot only maybe in your circumstance). You can ohm check it and everything's fine, then drive it till the problem reoccurs, then ohm check again. Sometimes this will catch a intermittant solenoid. This is of course ohm checking through the harness connector on top of the trans. 
I had one once that I ohm checked and it was fine, I drove it till the car acted up, I went back to the shop and started removing the breather and stuff to access the solenoid connector, then the phone rang. I spent 5 minutes on the phone and when I got back to ohm check again, it checked fine. I repeated the process without the phone call of course, and the solenoid that was triggering the code was open (or shorted, I cant remember now). Point being, intermittants can fool you.


----------



## FL 2.0L (Aug 1, 2002)

First off, thanks a ton for replying!
The dealer says I am getting no codes. I tried to pull codes with my Innova scanner and got none. I am considering getting Vag-com to get a closer look at what is going on. I wonder about this quote about the 01m, too:
http://findarticles.com/p/arti.../pg_3/
Later today I will drive it until it acts up and ohm test again. I have to imagine it is a sensor or something getting flakey when hot. I'm also going to check the resistance of the CPK cold and hot. Does the auto trans use the CPK for engine speed when looking to engage OD?
Thanks again. I'm trying super hard to avoid replacement.
Add: 8:00 pm - Do you think I could get that car to make a single bad shift tonight? No! Five laps and 30 minutes around the golf course. Trip to the grocery store. Nothing. Now I'm hoping for the hot weather to return...
_Modified by FL 2.0L at 9:40 AM 10-1-2009_

_Modified by FL 2.0L at 1:23 PM 10-1-2009_

_Modified by FL 2.0L at 6:33 PM 10-1-2009_


_Modified by FL 2.0L at 9:21 PM 10-1-2009_


----------



## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

I'm drawing a blank. Whats cpk? Crank position kercheif?
Once again.. if you have no solenoid codes....


----------



## FL 2.0L (Aug 1, 2002)

Haven't you seen the crank position sensor referred to as the CPK to differentiate it from the CPS? It's resistance was good cold last night.
I think the cooler mod is looking like a good idea, but the tranny pan was plenty hot after driving last night.
_Modified by FL 2.0L at 10:33 AM 10-2-2009_

_Modified by FL 2.0L at 11:27 AM 10-2-2009_
ADD: Drove it today and it shifted perfectly. Remote trans cooler going in tonight.

_Modified by FL 2.0L at 4:02 PM 10-2-2009_


_Modified by FL 2.0L at 8:05 PM 10-2-2009_


----------



## nbugnut (Sep 30, 2009)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

I just wanted to thank the originator of this post for some dang fine info and pics...as a newbee to the NB community and these 01M trannies, I really appreciate this kind of hands on first hand info...my 99 NB (new to me yesterday, I love a challenge) has a strange tranny issue, when put into drive, (reverse actually, and I only did this once) makes a grinding noise, so I put it back immediately into park. The vehicle wasn't moving, but the sound putting it into park was like putting a moving vehicle into park...I'm going to start with a CV joint check and hope I luck out.
Is there a procedure anywhere on removing the tranny while I try to find an owners manual and Bentley for a '99....does anyone have these they want to sell?
Thanks, Den.
BTW...I've been working on ACVW for 40 years, it's time for a new learning experience


----------



## Chris Barnes (Feb 13, 2001)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (nbugnut)*

bump for great info








Cheers,
Chris


----------



## ibdpic (Oct 28, 2009)

I did a ohm check and found the following,
ev-1 58 omh
ev-2 59 ohm
ev-3 59 ohm
ev-4 4.8 ohm
ev-5 59 ohm
ev-6 4.8 ohm
ev-759 ohm
temp sensor .435 ohm
These were cold trans. 50 f.
Manual reset and tba were done.
Drove car and this is what changed.
ev-1 78.7 ohm
ev-2 79.7 ohm
ev-3 78.1 ohm
ev-4 6.1 ohm
ev-5 81.7 ohm
ev-6 6.2 ohm
ev-7 20.38 ohm
Trans temp way out. Others a little higher than spec.
The car shifts fine cold. No flares and no bumps.
After it is warmed up the 1st to 2nd shift bumps unless you keep throttle lite.
New fluid (vw spec), filter. When I bought car it was in limp mode with code for solenoid. Don't remember code but think it was 740 on gen obdll. Found broken wire to MF switch and cleared the codes. Car regained all gears but still dealing with harsh 1st to 2nd shift. 
Can the temp sensor affect this?
Thanks
Brian


----------



## ibdpic (Oct 28, 2009)

Sorry the ev.7 is 77.3 ohms and the temp sensor is 30.38 ohms
Thanks, 
Brian


----------



## ibdpic (Oct 28, 2009)

Damn eye balls!! The temp sensor is 20.38 ohms
Any ideas??
Thanks


----------



## joshsjetta (Feb 3, 2009)

*Re: (ibdpic)*

Sounds like the temp sensor is way off. Possibly, a harness change is in your future.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (joshsjetta)*

+1.


----------



## 1.8tscooter (Nov 3, 2009)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

rychas and other contributors - very good work. Info on this particular system is far and few between.
Seems my 01M has taken to the dark side, thus I found your thread. 
CEL lit up last week, plugged in the trusty vag-com, returned this:
Saturday,31,October,2009,16:07:14:37450
VCDS Version: Release 908.1
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 01M-927-733.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 01M 927 733 KS
Component and/or Version: AG4 Getriebe 01M 4890
Software Coding: 00000
Work Shop Code: WSC 00000 
1 Fault Found:
00268 - Solenoid Valve 6 (N93) 
36-00 - Open Circuit
The car is not running in EM, it is shifting OK. Thinking this was a piece of cake swapping the N93 (which it is thanks to your diy), reading this thread has pretty well established the internal cable as a part that fails regularly. Now I'm scratching my head wondering if...







So I got the cable connector apart (as well as a few other blasted brackets!!) and ohm'ed it as follows:
EV1 - 113
EV2 - 65
EV3 - 66
EV4 - 5
EV5 - 69
EV6 - 8
EV7 - 185 (yes, 185)
TFT - null, nada, nothing (verified setting on multi meter was correct @ K)
Now I'm thinking a bad cable since only EV4 was in spec? It seems odd the TFT is reading null. 
I'm prepping to drop the pan (parts in transit) but I only want to do this once, I may bite the bullet and get the cable and solenoid kit since the scooter has 111k miles and be done with it (I hope!). 
I'll try n post my experience and pics here later.
As a sidebar of note, I called JE VW parts this morning. All the parts guy wanted to do was to sell me a reman valve body for 800.00! Sssssuuuuuurrrrrreee....


----------



## Blwn_By_Twins (Jan 8, 2010)

*Re: (rychas1)*

rychas, I noticed the fluid in some of your pics at the beginning of this tread was red. Are you using somthing other than the yellowish VW atf? If so how is holding up?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (Blwn_By_Twins)*

yea. i was draining the old generic atf out. but i did replace with vw brand spec oil.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (1.8tscooter)*

id say cable. but it cant hurt just to do all the solenoids and be done with it. its so easy, its a shame most people dont do it. really no tougher than changing oil.


----------



## greenraVR6 (Mar 10, 2008)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

I've owned quite a few vw's over the years, all 5 speeds, so I have a question about an auto b3 passat vr I'm thinking about buying. The owner says the overdrive solonoid is bad because the car has to be manually shifted from 1st to 2nd and 3rd and will not go into 4th/overdrive...does this sound like a solonoid problem or something else? Any help would be greatly appreciated cause like I said, I really have no experience with automatic vw's. I read through most of this post, but it seems nobody is having this exact problem


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (greenraVR6)*

sounds possible. ask him/her to pull a vagcom report just to be sure.


----------



## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (greenraVR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *greenraVR6* »_I've owned quite a few vw's over the years, all 5 speeds, so I have a question about an auto b3 passat vr I'm thinking about buying. The owner says the overdrive solonoid is bad because the car has to be manually shifted from 1st to 2nd and 3rd and will not go into 4th/overdrive...does this sound like a solonoid problem or something else? Any help would be greatly appreciated cause like I said, I really have no experience with automatic vw's. I read through most of this post, but it seems nobody is having this exact problem 

Do not buy that car. Any code could cause what your describing! A solenoid code which could cost 80 - 200 bucks or a slip code which could cost 3000-5000. 
Tell owner if its a solenoid, to have it fixed and you'll pay for the repair after you verify its fixed.


----------



## Cadenza_7o (Jan 23, 2001)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

Is this the wiring harness you replaced?








found at http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/75446B.html
At $276, that's one expensive item !!!
Are there other suppliers?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (Cadenza_7o)*

same idea...but this one is the same thing, just cheaper.
http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/75446.html
and no. there are other suppliers, but they cost much more.


----------



## throttle grotto (Oct 30, 2000)

*FV-QR*

so where would this code point me to?
00349 - Solenoid Valve 10 (N283) 
30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent


----------



## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (lagomorph)*

sol valve 10!















solenoid code is either solenoid, computer or wiring (including connection problems)
90% of the time its the solenoid.


----------



## throttle grotto (Oct 30, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (CoolAirVw)*

just for my clarity- the solenoid number acutally corresponds to the location of the wiring on the round connector? 
for example- solenoid #10 = pin 10 = EV7/N94?


----------



## cabdad (Feb 11, 2010)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

wow, incredible thread...OK, got a good one for you gurus...working on daughter's 95 cabrio, 096 tranny...she's condemned to getting rides fom dad until we get it fixed, and daddy doesn't have the cash for a new transmission...I'm a decent wrench turner, done some fairly involved projects on different cars, but admittedly a transmission derelict. No pressure, but with your help I could be a hero, and without it I'm just a dumbass dad (I'll give you some props, I promise)
Symptoms - bought car in October, great shape Karmann edition, runs great, shifted a little rough in beginning, worse when started getting cold, did some research and decided to change the ATF, looked in Bentley which says Dexron III or Pentosin so of course I went the cheap route, and the tranny has gone down hill fairly quickly since - at this point it takes seconds to shift into reverse, but any forward gear you have to rev it to 3500 rpms to get it going, once moving it seems OK, occasionally stuck in limp mode, but every time you stop there's a chance it will not go at all...until you put it in reverse for a second, then rev it to 3500rpms to get it going...
all connectors and grounds look good, only code I'm getting is 
"00652 Gear Monitoring 
27-10 Implausible Signal - Intermittent"
tested the harness plug on top per Dorin18 (fairly clueless have to admit but have a cheap multimeter and some common sense) - results were puzzling - EVERY combination came up at about 1200 ohms - I can only assume that means either the internal wiring harness is bad or the tranny is possessed...I'm sure there are other theories which is why I came to you guys (and girl).
Just wanted to get some advice before spending $100 on Pentosin ATF flush and/or $150 on wiring harness on a potentially very large paper weight or garden ornament.








Thanks!




_Modified by cabdad at 8:16 PM 2-10-2010_


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (cabdad)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cabdad* »_
Symptoms - at this point it takes seconds to shift into reverse, but any forward gear you have to rev it to 3500 rpms to get it going, once moving it seems OK, occasionally stuck in limp mode, but every time you stop there's a chance it will not go at all...until you put it in reverse for a second, then rev it to 3500rpms to get it going...
all connectors and grounds look good, only code I'm getting is 
"00652 Gear Monitoring 
27-10 Implausible Signal - Intermittent"
_Modified by cabdad at 8:16 PM 2-10-2010_

you are describing limp mode to the letter. the car is still in limp mode. clear it out and try again to see waht codes pull up. i have a feeling i know what it is.


----------



## cabdad (Feb 11, 2010)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

thanks for the reply...not fair teasing me like that!...cleared codes but didn't drive because battery's almost dead and daughter has other car (left the key on...brilliant!)
4 Faults Found:
00293 - Multi-function Switch (F125)
25-00 - Unknown Switch Condition
00281 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (G68)
03-00 - No Signal
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
35-00 - -
00300 - Transmission Fluid Temp. Sensor (G93)
34-00 - No Elaboration Available
First, I removed all harnesses and checked for corrosion...all clean as a whistle. Also checked ground at battery, but couldn't find any ground straps at the tranny. Second, I warned you I was an AT derelict, but I'm also fairly new to VAG-COM - do I need to drive it after clearing? Either way, if you think you know what's going on I'm all ears. This all seems like voodoo to me 
BTW, any thoughts on the cheap ATF? In hindsight I would have paid $200 to the stealership if I thought it would help me avoid having white haired ladies honking at me at when the light turns green. 
Seriously, this is what makes the internet great, and I appreciate your help! And trust me, I've googled til smoke came out of the computer - this is the best thread on the 096!



_Modified by cabdad at 6:50 AM 2-13-2010_


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (cabdad)*

i know where youre going. i jsut like making sure im correct before i say something. btw, its your internal harness.









_Quote, originally posted by *cabdad* »_cleared codes but didn't drive because battery's almost dead and daughter has other car (left the key on...brilliant!)
4 Faults Found:
00293 - Multi-function Switch (F125)
25-00 - Unknown Switch Condition
00281 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (G68)
03-00 - No Signal
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
35-00 - -
00300 - Transmission Fluid Temp. Sensor (G93)
34-00 - No Elaboration Available
First, I removed all harnesses and checked for corrosion...all clean as a whistle. Also checked ground at battery, but couldn't find any ground straps at the tranny. Second, I warned you I was an AT derelict, but I'm also fairly new to VAG-COM - do I need to drive it after clearing? Either way, if you think you know what's going on I'm all ears. This all seems like voodoo to me 
BTW, any thoughts on the cheap ATF? In hindsight I would have paid $200 to the stealership if I thought it would help me avoid having white haired ladies honking at me at when the light turns green. 
Seriously, this is what makes the internet great, and I appreciate your help! And trust me, I've googled til smoke came out of the computer - this is the best thread on the 096!

_Modified by cabdad at 1:39 PM 2-12-2010_


----------



## cabdad (Feb 11, 2010)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...enjoy! (rychas1)*

awesome, thanks...I am ordering the harness now and will let you know what happens.










_Modified by cabdad at 7:16 PM 2-14-2010_


----------



## cabdad (Feb 11, 2010)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...QUICK QUESTION*

I'm removing harness as we speak - but have an issue I could use some advice on...
I snapped the plastic plug that locks the very last harness connector to the last solenoid (n93), it's dark brown/black at very back - has anyone know if there's a way to rig it with wire or something, or do I need to order a new solenoid? I remember seeing a post from someone who snapped all of his and wired them up, but it was a different tranny and can't find the post again.
I know what I should do but don't want to wait another week for the part. Plus just noticed it's $80
Thanks!
_Modified by cabdad at 12:43 PM 2-20-2010_


_Modified by cabdad at 12:48 PM 2-20-2010_


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...QUICK QUESTION (cabdad)*

i dont know of a way to rig it up. if u button everthing up and that one connector slips out, u jsut have to start all over again. im sorry man.


----------



## cabdad (Feb 11, 2010)

*Re: the 096/01m internal harness DIY...QUICK QUESTION (rychas1)*

Thanks again for your help...I used the wire from a twisty (bread bag) and seemed to work quite well...also, found a thread where a guy used silicone for transmission gasket.
Unfortunately car not driving any better. Reset TCU and ECU per instructions before trying to drive - cleared all codes, reset tcu via gas pedal, unhooked battery for half hour, then drove...engaged first gear in beginning then off and on, will engage gears at 4000 rpm and shift fairly normally when up to speed but just disengages randomly. Checked VAG when got home and NO fault codes...I thought I might be in over my head to begin with but pretty sure at this point.








Any thoughts? 



_Modified by cabdad at 5:31 PM 2-21-2010_


----------



## 330iZHP (Nov 14, 2006)

1999 VW Cabrio 2.0 with auto. I have replaced the brakes and the valve cover gasket. The CEL is for the airpump (signal too high I think)...I have replaced all the vacuum lines and still getting the CEL P0411 and same code.
damn damn damn.
I really tried and wished my daughter had not bought a VW. I hate that thing already. ABS, brake and CEL lights are all on. The thing leaks oil. The trans is stuck in one forward gear (guessing third). When driving it never shifts and when taking off its like starting out in third/forth in a manual car.
I am thinking about taking the motor and trans out (cough, cough....I will need my engine stand and hoist) and redoing the waterpump, timing belt, thermostat, oil pan gasket, head gasket, and what ever else I can replace...and I guess rebuild the trans.
VW people, is that trans controlled by a TCU and could there be something electrical/computer related causing it to be stuck in one forward gear?
Also, the gear indicator in the cluster on startup lights up the P, shift into reverse and the R lights up, shift into D and the D lights up...excelerate and then every letter/number PRND321 light up.

Any ideas what is wrong with this transmission????
I now know it is in LIMP mode and I used a generic scanner
P-code P0768 - solenoid D and I dont recall whether open circuit or ground



_Modified by 330iZHP at 12:18 AM 2-23-2010_


----------



## naconi (Nov 1, 2009)

*Re: (330iZHP)*

You need to scan the car with something like VAGCOM
http://www.ross-tech.com
It will tell you why the transmission is in limp mode. It may just be a wiring problem.
You may have one of the ABS modules that is known for going bad or it may be just a wheel speed sensor. My daughters ABS light came on in her 98 Beetle the dealer said it needed a new controller for $1400, I said no thanks. I bought the VAGCOM and cleared the codes the only one that came back was for a wheel speed sensor. The VAGCOM saved me a bunch of money.


----------



## cabdad (Feb 11, 2010)

*Re: (330iZHP)*

another cabdad...sweet! sorry I can't answer your question just glad I did not kill the thread like I did my daughter's tranny








You also might want to try the Bentley site: http://tech.bentleypublishers....art=0
Sounds like your's might be fixable...mine's screwed. Buy a cheap multimeter and test the main harness per dorin on 2nd page of this thread.
Good luck


----------



## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

*Re:  (330iZHP)*


_Quote, originally posted by *330iZHP* »_ ....and I guess rebuild the trans. 

Easier said than done. 

_Quote, originally posted by *330iZHP* »_P-code P0768 - solenoid D and I dont recall whether open circuit or ground

Solenoid code.... try replacing solenoid, although it could be the internal harness, external wiring problem or the TCM. But like someone else said, maybe you should scan with vag-com.


----------



## sgrass001 (Apr 3, 2010)

*Re: (CoolAirVw)*

I have a 2001 Golf with 01M tranny. Had to disconnect battery to do timing belt and after test drive of about 10 miles got P0768 tcm code. Changed solenoid it pointed to and now I need to reset TCM. I know Vagcom from Ross tech is what everyone uses but I found a company on Ebay selling Vag Canbus OBDII scanner / programmer for VW and Audi for about $150. They told me it is similar to VAG 1551/1552. Had anyone purchased or used one of these from Ebay? I am thinking about trying but unsure.. 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...Tools


_Modified by sgrass001 at 7:08 PM 4-5-2010_


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (sgrass001)*

u dont need that tool just to reset tcu. do it manually as described at the beginning of this thread, or one of my other ones..


----------



## herb2k (Jul 29, 2007)

*Re: (rychas1)*

If it's in limp mode (PRND display with dark background) then you will need a VAG-COM or other tool to reset (clear the codes) from the TCM. Generic OBD2 scanner will not do it.


----------



## sgrass001 (Apr 3, 2010)

*Re: (herb2k)*

I tried using the manual reset listed(below) in the 01M DIY thread but it did nothing. I posted a thread and someone told me that on my 2001 it would not work but for other models only. I say it is in limp mode because it won't shift into any gears and the tach just climbs higher when I try to pick up speed. As for the darkened PRND I am not sure what you mean.. when I put it in drive the D is surrounded.. any direction is appreciated... I am about to pull my hair out trying to figure this thing out..
1.key on (dont start, just turn the car on)
2.gas down to floor for 10 sec
3.while holding gas, turn key off
4.let go of gas
5.key on (again, on, dont start) for 5 min (for throttle readaptation). touch nothing.
6.then start while touching nothing. 
7.drive and see what happens.



_Modified by sgrass001 at 1:13 PM 4-6-2010_


----------



## herb2k (Jul 29, 2007)

*Re: (sgrass001)*

The procedure you listed only works if there are no codes stored in your TCM (your previous post indicates you got a P0768 code). 
You need a proper scan tool to be able to clear this code out of your TCM and get out of limp. There is no "free" way to do it.


----------



## sgrass001 (Apr 3, 2010)

*Re: (herb2k)*

I appreciate the feedback. I was thinking I needed to clear the code first. Is it safe to assume mine is in limp mode based on the fact the rpms just increase and the car feels like it has to slowly get up to speed?? I think I am going to order the Vag 5053 from the guy on ebay and give it a shot. He told me he offers 100% money back if it isn't what I need.. I will post my results... fingers crossed.


----------



## sgrass001 (Apr 3, 2010)

*Re: (sgrass001)*

My problem has been fixed.. turns out it was a bad ribbon cable in the tranny. Once I replaced it .. I reset everything using Vagcom and tranny shifts well..


----------



## super_chief (Aug 16, 2008)

nice! glad I caught this thread


----------



## wiki wagon (May 20, 2010)

*Butter Knife really works*

Okay, it's my turn. Wife's 2002 TDI with an 01m. Vag-Com says 00264 (N91) solenoid...
A really appreciated the butter knife trick. Ohm meter says 6.3 - 6.4, so I'm gonna order the Rostra replacement internal harness upgrade. Tomorrow I'll remove the outer Connector.


----------



## wiki wagon (May 20, 2010)

*How difficult is a Jetta trans swap?*

Just in case this internal harness repair doesn't work or last...
What is the most difficult (hated) step in swapping out a 01M trans?
Do I need any special tools besides vag-com? 
Is there a post already on this that I missed?
Appreciate all of the advice, you guys have all inspired me. Wrenching on the car is actually kind of rewarding.


----------



## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

wiki wagon said:


> Just in case this internal harness repair doesn't work or last...
> What is the most difficult (hated) step in swapping out a 01M trans?
> Do I need any special tools besides vag-com?
> Is there a post already on this that I missed?
> Appreciate all of the advice, you guys have all inspired me. Wrenching on the car is actually kind of rewarding.


Ooh! Last week I removed a 01M and I took pictures in preperation for a how to.. Maybe I'll get a chance to post them soon!

Edit... here it is...

http://www.kansascitytdi.com/01m trans removal.htm


----------



## naconi (Nov 1, 2009)

wiki wagon said:


> Okay, it's my turn. Wife's 2002 TDI with an 01m. Vag-Com says 00264 (N91) solenoid...
> A really appreciated the butter knife trick. Ohm meter says 6.3 - 6.4, so I'm gonna order the Rostra replacement internal harness upgrade. Tomorrow I'll remove the outer Connector.


 Are you sure it is the internal cable and not the external? Did you take a resistance measurement at the connector on the transmission?


----------



## wiki wagon (May 20, 2010)

*replacement harness*

As expected the same code returned 00264 (N91) solenoid. I did not measure impedance any where except for at the solenoids. I was unable to remove the connector on the transmission and I did not attempt to remove the connector on the TCU side. As I'm trying to avoid a rental car by clearing codes and limp mode) until the new cable arrives I didn't want to force the connector at the transmission. Despite my carefulness, I broke off a few bits of plastic before aborting. I may need the sawzall (only half kidding). to remove it which would rule out a post mortem. 
The Rostra replacement harness includes both pieces, TCU to trans and trans to solenoids (internal). I'm going to try the new style instead of the original ribbon style. Electrical Advantage Inc in Ohio has it for $109.00 including free shipping.


----------



## wiki wagon (May 20, 2010)

*All one piece*

My bad. The cable is all one piece, which is why I was unsuccessful "disconnecting" it where it exits the trans. Everyone was too polite to tell me. 
The new cable is in and all is well. 
To remove the circle clip, i pushed down (gently) with a small flat head screwdriver. 
To route the harness properly, I loosened the trans cooler, I did _not_ remove the starter (thanks). 
For what it's worth, I used the the Mobil One fluid at $7.49/Qt and trans filter $19.49 both from Autozone.


----------



## Beetle.freak (Apr 16, 2009)

Ok, I have a 99' Jetta 2.0, 01m ? (4spd automatic) that I want to buy off my father in-law, that wont downshift back into 1st and 3rd to 4th is screwy !!! I havent checked anything yet till I understand this tranny. Does anybody know where you can find a new TCM module cheap but decent quality ( I know dumb question right ) ? Can you check the old module by resistance or some other means before I start digging on the tranny ??? I have access to a wrecked Passatt next door with what looks like the same tranny except its a 20v, would that TCM swap with mine to see if thats my problem ? Also where are the #s on my tranny to make sure what I have ? Thanks for any info ! :banghead:


----------



## JDMAC (Oct 23, 2010)

First off this thread is awesome! So helpful and will save me hundreds! So thanks...

I'm waiting to find out what my Vag-Com codes are, but I got a P0753 - Shift Solenoid A Electrical. So I'm assuming I'll be needing to replace either a solenoid, or ribbon, or both. And I'd like to get this done next weekend, before the weather gets any colder as I don't have any indoor area to do it. So I'm trying to put together a list of everything I'll need to get this done. If you could help me out with anything I'm missing that I'll need that would be great.

-solenoid(s)/wiring that needs replacing
-new filter
-new fluid (is this only available at the dealership?)
-new gasket (what is the actual name of this gasket?)
-and of course all the tools

That should be all that's needed for this job correct? Depending on what the Vag-Com codes are that come up, which I should find out about tomorrow. 

:beer:


----------



## helmy (Feb 8, 2009)

what is the limp mode?


----------



## helmy (Feb 8, 2009)

guys these posts are great realy great, am new to this forum and i need to know some issues amon them is th epc 
what is an (EPC)?


----------



## Beetle.freak (Apr 16, 2009)

I finally had a diagnostic done on the 99' Jetta I'm thinking about buying from my girlfriends dad. Open circuit ev6 N93 is what came up. My mechanic that did my diag. even gave me a bad tranny (no reverse) to use for parts ( solenoids,ribbon, etc.). I just checked the bad tranny out and the ribbon and all the solenoids checked out ok. YaY !!!! I would still like to know the proper method to refill and what port do you use ????


----------



## atomkinson (Apr 23, 2010)

*096 slow shifting when warm*

Hi I have a 95 cabrio with a 096 transmission with about 97k miles. It was shifting horribly after coming off the freeway, I think the fluid was overheated because it was brown when I changed the filter and fluid. After the fluid change everything works fine until the engine is warm. 

Once engaged in a gear there is no slipping and the shifts into each gear are smooth but take about 1-2 seconds to occur. The shift between 1st and 2nd is the worse. Could this be from a bad shift solenoid? Which solenoid controls the shift between 1st and 2nd? Thanks to anyone who can help me out. I don't know much about these cars or automatics in general.


----------



## JCdubber (Sep 12, 2005)

ooh man what an awesome tranny thread. i have a 94 passat vr6 with these codes. the thing is, my check engine light is not on. wether its hot or cold, the car shifts thru all gears just fine, especially in town. but when i get up between 45-70mph, the trans pops into limp mode. Ie goes into 3rd, and if i try to floor it, itll downshift again, and not upshift. but at this point we know what limp mode does. i wouldnt have posted, but i didnt find my problem on here and i just combed thru every, single, post.


----------



## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

This is an awsome thread. Its a shame people keep posting off topic questions in this thread like the one above. Your codes have no relation to the internal harness. 

If you would delete your off topic thread and start a new thread, I'll try to help you with your codes.


----------



## barshawi (Oct 23, 2010)

*help please*

hi
this is great thread my transmission stuck on 3rd gear (limp mode) with p0763 (Shift Solenoid C Electrical) and p1613 (Circuit Open Or Short To B), so i checked each solenoid all in specs except the 2nd from the front of the car was 84 ohm so i chenged it, fill the car with oil, disconnect the battery for 2 hrs, key on gas to floor 15 sec key off, turn the car on check engine came on after 10 sec left the car on for 10 min and drove it still in limp mode, did this three time still in limp mode
scanned the car p0763 and p1613 again :banghead: please help what i have to do next?


----------



## Provodis (Nov 8, 2000)

*thanks*

I just wanted to say thanks for taking your time to put this thread together. I just went through this exact repair on my wifes jetta, and found this thread a HUGE help. 
:beer:


----------



## FoxnotaRabbit (Apr 2, 2011)

I just posted in the forum about my problem.

Read through here a few times, and want to verify some things.

I tested resistance, and all were in spec except for N94, which I replaced

The code I pulled was a 00264 solenoid 4, alldata says thats for solenoid N91. I replaced N91, but looking through here again, N91 is EDC and solenoid for is N90...Is that the solenoid I should have replaced?

Now....
On one of the posts on here it made mention of the shift selector on the instrument panel being very dark if you're in limp mode...is that right? If so, I'm in...limp mode

So:
A. How do I get out of limp mode, is that the foot to the key in, foot to the floor for 15 sec, key off, foot off, and then key back on for 5, then start it?

B. Should I replace solenoid 4 N91 as well?


thanks,.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

wow..i gotta get caught up on all this traffic


----------



## 1.8slowcl (Mar 27, 2005)

*Internal Harness Issue?*

So I bought a 1999 2Litre with 01M, though like reading through many posts of CoolAir's I'd be the guy to rip it out without any doubt and put in a 5 speed, as I have done in the past. 2L and 1.8T's

This time I thought I'd give it a shot and try to perhaps resolve it, its a shame only 170'KMS

The tranny issues are as follows...

1. When cold it shudders and bangs into gears, once in gear it automatically shuts off.
2. Once warmed up its stuck in 3H eventhough I selected D (according to Vag-Com), Parking, Reverse and Neutral all work fine without any slips...
3. Solenoid #4 N91 showing an open

This is what I have done so far..

Scanned it Vag-Com, only code that comes up is N91 Open Circuit... I did try resetting the tranny but not much changed.. As well tried another computer and only N91 shows up Open Circuit, nothing else...

I therefore used an OHM Meter and checked the round connector on top for transmission and verified according to other posts.

Solenoid #1 94.3
Solenoid #2 95.6
Solenoid #3 67.7
Solenoid #4 4.7
Solenoid #5 9.4
Solenoid #6 5.3
Solenoid #7 69.7
Temp Sensor Open Line

Reading through other posts a Temp Sensor is integrated with the internal harness. Meaning if I buy an after market internal harness such as posted on http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/75446.html should resolve the Temp Sensor issue? Because it is somewhere on that harness?

Correct me if I'm wrong..

Now I don't know why solenoid #5 is only showing 9.4 but I'm going to drop the pan, remove the filter and use a butter knife while easily trying to remove the connectors trying to avoid breaking the plastic taps off the solenoinds.. and re-check all solenoids..

I've tried to check for shorts or opens from the TCM to the round connector and again with OHM's all show good... and even on the connector the Solenoid #4 shows 4.7

If the values DO Change bonus for me, I am off lucky with only a harness...
If the values DO Not Change much and solenoid #5 stay the same should I replace it with #1 and #2 as well?

They seem a bit high of a value but can I get away with 94.3 and 95.6? For Solenoid #1 and #2?


----------



## 1.8slowcl (Mar 27, 2005)

Update..

Removed the Pan, Filter was off...
Removed the harness, rechecked resistances

Solenoid #1 64.3
Solenoid #2 63.6
Solenoid #3 64.1
Solenoid #4 4.5
Solenoid #5 63.7
Solenoid #6 4.4
Solenoid #7 64.1


----------



## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

1.8slowcl said:


> Update..
> 
> Removed the Pan, Filter was off...
> Removed the harness, rechecked resistances
> ...


Are you saying yoiur harnes has "opens" in it?


----------



## 1.8slowcl (Mar 27, 2005)

That's what I take, with Harness on it had Opens, without harness directly on Solenoids it had complete different values..

Ill let you know how it goes after the harness I put in.. currently shipped ..


----------



## ttrammel (Jul 7, 2011)

*All at once*

First I would like to say great posts from everyone, very helpful. 

Now, just the other day I installed new front struts and control arms on my 2000 Jetta GLS VR6. I had to raise each side of the engine to clear a bolt on the control arms to remove and install. Previous to doing this work my transmission hesitated into reverse and the gear changes weren't too rough, but nothing I was worried about. As soon as I put it all back together, I noticed my tranny was stuck in 2nd gear and, of course, a check engine light. I took it to advance auto to run the code and SHIFT SOLENOID A-E, Control Solenoid Malfunction, and Shift Timing Solenoid. So everything I assume. 

Is this most likely just the harness? What could have happened in the process of moving around the tranny?

Thanks


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

check your multifunction switch (orange switch on tranny) for damage.


----------



## ttrammel (Jul 7, 2011)

*All at once*



rychas1 said:


> check your multifunction switch (orange switch on tranny) for damage.


 I did check and clean the multifunction switch. Everything seemed to be in order and undamaged. I have ordered all new solenoids and a harness. Thought I would just tackle a replacement. Could it be anything else? I don't want to change the solenoids and harness and not get anywhere. thanks


----------



## SpringJetta (May 3, 2008)

*Internal Harness*

Okay, replaced all solenoids, new harness, filter, tranny fluid. when I removed the solenoids I took the solenoids and harness all together. There was a combination of two styles of solenoids. 4 of the 5 solenoids along the front had a triangle mark and one solid brass end, on the two solenoids found on the back end of the tranny, one solid, one triangle brass. I matched the solenoids in the same order and type as the original.

Started car, no codes. Went into reverse okay. Put it in drive and it drives like its in 3 gear. I think I didn't have enough fluid at first (one site said 2.1L) but maybe that wasnt changing the filter. So I pulled back into the driveway and added another 1 1/4 liter. 

Still drives like it has the brake on and doesnt shift. What else?


----------



## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

SpringJetta said:


> Still drives like it has the brake on and doesnt shift. What else?


You haven't cleared the code? You can try the throttle method of clearing codes in the FAQ in the auto trans section.


----------



## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

1.8slowcl said:


> ... it should be reset with new fluid and filter.


What are you meaning here? Changing the fluid and filter isn't a "reset"??? If your asking if you should change the fluid and filter, then sure you should. 



1.8slowcl said:


> Fluid was topped up a bit higher than leaking point of the dipstick.


there is no dipstick so I dont know what you mean here. I would suggest just checking the fluid the correct way, and if you did so then state, "Fluid level is correct". 



1.8slowcl said:


> Therefore with VagCom I have read 00 block and saved the results as it showed all reset.
> Then if stays on factory setting 00000 it doesn't shift till 3500.
> if settings are in Ricemode it doesn't shift till 4000.
> If settings are in GrandPa it actually shifts before 3000, but if DSP active it will shift and downshift on gas pedal.


I assume your talking about changing the coding settings for sport mode-economy mode ect. I assure you none of this will fix a problem. Just set it back to the setting you like. 



1.8slowcl said:


> Jetta with Reverse blown stays easily put at lights.
> Jetta with Harness Replaced almost makes me want to pull up the hand brake.


Sometimes these will develop a pressure loss to a clutch pack, and "folks" will interpret this as a "roll back" on a hill. Background.... there is no function in a auto trans to prevent "rollback" on a hill, but if the trans drops into neutral, then it will "rollback". 



1.8slowcl said:


> As well should I clean the throttle and do adaptation?
> I guess it wouldn't hurt.


It probably wont fix the problem, but adaptation is free so you might as well try it and report your results back here. If you have vag-com you can do the adaptation with vag-com, as per the instructions on my website. 

Your "roll-back" if its caused by a pressure loss to a clutch will behave as follows. Either you'll put it in gear and it wont go into gear till you give it just a bit of gas then it will "bump in", or it will do this and every time you come to a stop it will neutral then wont go into gear till you give it some gas and then it will "bump in". This can be confirmed with a pressure gauge.

With harsh shifts it may be best to put a pressure gauge on it as well, and see how the pressure behaves as your problem is happening.


----------



## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

Your "filling up" a thread on specific harness issues with questions not relating to the harness. This is normally considered "off topic". 

Seems like you should start your own thread so that folks looking for issues on their car in the future can read this thread and get info on electriacal prolems relating to internal harness without having to read through all the other stuff that doesn't relate.


----------



## TheDocs92 (Aug 8, 2011)

*My 1992 2.0L GL Passat Auto APE*

My issue is the trans slips on occasion and also goes into limp mode.. i found as I drive and cycle the key off then on it will then upshift properly.

Here are the codes found:

Release 10.6.4
Data version: 20110418

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Chassis Type: 31 - VW Passat B3
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 8A0-907-404.lbl
Part No: 8A0 907 404 CC
Component: 2,0l R4 MK 4Ventil D01 
VCID: 67D71D202FFD

2 Faults Found:
00516 - Closed Throttle (Idle) Position Switch (F60) 
30-00 - Open or Short to Plus
00587 - Mixture Control Adjustment Limit 
10-10 - Adaptation Limit Not Reached - Intermittent
Readiness: N/A

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 095-927-731.lbl
Part No: 095 927 731 AQ
Component: DIGIMAT 0639 
VCID: 6DDB6F080D01

8 Faults Found:
00258 - Solenoid Valve 1 (N88) 
36-10 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
00281 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (G68) 
03-10 - No Signal - Intermittent
00293 - Multi-function Switch (F125) 
25-10 - Unknown Switch Condition - Intermittent
00300 - Transmission Fluid Temp. Sensor (G93) 
34-10 - No Elaboration Available - Intermittent
00518 - Throttle Position Sensor (G69) 
16-10 - Signal Outside Specifications - Intermittent
00545 - Engine-Transmission Electrical Connection 
31-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
00263 - Transmission 
04-10 - Mechanical Malfunction - Intermittent
65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error 
00-10 - - - Intermittent

End ---------------------------------------------------------------------


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

TheDocs92 said:


> My issue is the trans slips on occasion and also goes into limp mode.. i found as I drive and cycle the key off then on it will then upshift properly.
> 
> Here are the codes found:
> 
> ...


/


----------



## seahag (Jun 9, 2005)

*Strange one ......*

Love to hear ideas on this one....The FACTS : 1991 Corrado AT # 096409061...

i have been driving the car for about a year like this...On start up the car is in limp mode...I drive gingerly for about 5 miles, stop shut the car off and restart.....upon restart the car is no longer in limp mode and shifts wonderfully with no issues or errors....It will run all day long just fine as long as it is warm. ...

The solenoids
#1 ) 62
#2) 61.6
#3) 31 when cold - 67 when hot
#4) spec says 4.5 - 5.1...actual reading 61.6
#5) 62.1
#6) 5.0
#7) 62.6
#8) Open at cold 81.6 when hot

VAG Com says when cold 'Short or open circuit solenoid valve N89".....

The VAG Com error disappears after the car is warmed up and shut off and turned back on...

I'm sick and tired of having to stop and reset everytime I take the car out...

Any thoughts on this one...- much appreciated.....????


----------



## jhines_06gli (Feb 3, 2006)

2002 Beetle TDI with 01M in it. Just got the engine running and all to find out that there is no 3rd gear!!! AWESOME!! Car shifts fine 1-2 and then there is nothing.....it disengages 2nd and never even tries to engage 3rd, just free-revs. Fluid level is good and condition is dark, but not burnt smelling or milky. Car has 118K miles on it and has sat for the past years because of broken timing belt and trashed head. I have a 00652 fault for Gear Monitoring- Implausible Signal. VW says that's either worn clutches or a bad valve body(since we do not replace individual solenoids at the dealer). 

So basically here's what I've done:
-Checked fluid level.....3-4 drops at 35* just like VW says. 
-Condition is normal for 118K miles. 
-Dropped the pan to inspect for any clutch material or anything and check solenoids to make 
sure they're all the way in.
-I have not done any resistance checks yet, but with only the gear monitoring fault, should not 
be electrical.....gotta be mechanical.

I have access to a 1996 Jetta VR 01M transmission that was working fine when removed......contemplating grabbing a solenoid out of it and swapping. What are your thoughts on that? Think it sounds like a slipping trans. from bad clutches? With no burnt fluid or dark fragments in the pan, seems unlikely. Or think it is more along the lines of a stuck solenoid? Curious if I can removed solenoid and clean the chamber and solenoid like we do older C4 and C6 transmissions? 
I know they only operate on reference voltage(5V), so makes them hard to diagnose as far as testing them. If you use 12V you'll just fry the coils inside the solenoid and be up the creek!
Thanks for any help guys......awesome thread!!
-J. Hines

Also noticed TCM coding is "0". Gonna check another Beetle TDI and see if this is correct or not. Wouldn't imagine this should have anything to do with it, but car has been sitting with no battery in it for almost a year now.


----------



## jhines_06gli (Feb 3, 2006)

Ran through pressure test for all clutch packs this AM. Using VW's guidelines and all their specs. Got the following:

Clucthpack Applied Spec. % leakage Actual % leakage
B1 10% 0%
B2 10% 0% 
K1 35% 25%
K2 25% 7%
K3 20% 7%

This was using the VW tester plate and a cylinder leakdown gauge with shop air set at 80PSI. According to all this, my clutches and all are good. So hopefully just the solenoid is stuck or not being engaged for whatever reading. Just curious why there is no solenoid fault? Also need to get coding from a similar vehicle so I can make sure "0" is correct and didn't default to something while it was sitting dormant.

But hopefully good news, just need to find a solenoid locally or at leats one to swap in and see if that is the issue. 
-J. Hines


----------



## gregoryw (Aug 14, 2011)

*Another Transmission problem*

Great thread. Read all eight pages, but did not find a problem that I am having. It is an '01 New Beetle with the 1.8 turbo engine. Transmission is in limp mode. At least it will not shift to higher gears. I've been working on the car off and on for six months with no luck. I have changed the TCM, replaced the entire valve body and cable (with a good used one), and done the usual resets. Nothing changed the trouble codes which I have copied below:

Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 01M-927-733.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 01M 927 733 JT
Component and/or Version: AG4 Getriebe 01M 4714
Software Coding: 00000
Work Shop Code: WSC 00000 
VCID: 8B1FD7179337
8 Faults Found:

00258 - Solenoid Valve 1 (N88) 
36-00 - Open Circuit
00260 - Solenoid Valve 2 (N89) 
36-00 - Open Circuit
00262 - Solenoid Valve 3 (N90) 
36-00 - Open Circuit
00264 - Solenoid Valve 4 (N91) 
36-00 - Open Circuit
00266 - Solenoid Valve 5 (N92) 
36-00 - Open Circuit
00270 - Solenoid Valve 7 (N94) 
36-00 - Open Circuit
00268 - Solenoid Valve 6 (N93) 
36-00 - Open Circuit

I figure there has to be a bad sensor somewhere or something very simple. I've already done the hard stuff. Anyone have an idea what is going on here?


----------



## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

gregoryw said:


> Great thread. Read all eight pages, but did not find a problem that I am having. It is an '01 New Beetle with the 1.8 turbo engine. Transmission is in limp mode. At least it will not shift to higher gears. I've been working on the car off and on for six months with no luck. I have changed the TCM, replaced the entire valve body and cable (with a good used one), and done the usual resets. Nothing changed the trouble codes which I have copied below:
> 
> Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 01M-927-733.lbl
> Control Module Part Number: 01M 927 733 JT
> ...


Two things come to mind: either a grounding issue or a problem in the wiring harness between the TCM and the trans. Find a wiring diagram for the harness, and check for continuity between the right pins.

More likely it is a grounding problem. The TCM detects an open circuit by seeing low or no current flowing when it calls for a solenoid to energize. (And a short circuit when it sees too much current). If there is no return path to ground, current won't flow. Start by checking the resistance between your transmission and negative battery terminal, then go from there. I think there is a grounding strap on the 09A tiptronic, you might check if 01M has one (or is supposed to have one) too.


----------



## gregoryw (Aug 14, 2011)

Charlie_M said:


> More likely it is a grounding problem.


You were right on. Ouch! It had been so long since I worked on this car, I forgot that I had disconnected the connection to the cable that this thread is all about. I wanted to make it go into limp mode to compare behavior. After doing this, I just parked the car and moved on to other cars. It had been so long that the rear brakes froze and I had to replace the pads.

Anyway, after reconnecting the cable, all the codes would clear and now I remember my original problem. The transmission shifts fine from first into second, but when the speed is calling for a shift to third, it revs and has no go. If you slow down, you can get the second gear again. There are no trouble codes created by this condition.

I had already changed the TCM and the valve body with solenoids and cable. Of course, my replacement parts were used, but I would not expect the exact same condition. One odd thing that I have not tracked down yet. I thought I better try the throttle body adaptation. In the Bentley manual, it says to go into the transmission or 02, basic settings 04, and group 000. All codes were clear in both engine and transmission. The adaptation did not do anything. It just sat there frozen. The last time I saw this it was the throttle body. Could that be the cause? Sounds far out, but I think somewhere in this tread, it was suggested that it could affect the transmission. My other thought is a sensor on the transmission, but there are several. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.


----------



## TheDocs92 (Aug 8, 2011)

*The latest Code Dump*



rychas1 said:


> /


 Thank you for your last response. 

I did order and install all new solenoids as well as a new internal harness for the trans. Additionally I also installed a new TP Sensor. 

After all were installed, the trans was still in 3rd gear only. 

The new code dump 

Address 01; Engine Labels: 8Ao-907-404.LBL 
Part No: 8AO 907 404 CC 
Component 2.0l R4 MK 4Ventil D01 

2 Faults Found: 
00516 - Closed Throttle (Idle) Position Switch (F60) 
30-00 - Open or Short to Plus 
000687 - Mixture COntrol Adjustment Limit 
10-10 - Adaptation Limit Not reached - Intermittent 
Readiness: N/A


----------



## TheDocs92 (Aug 8, 2011)

I did order and install all new solenoids as well as a new internal harness for the trans. Additionally I also installed a new TP Sensor. 

After all were installed, the trans was still in 3rd gear only. 

The new code dump 

Address 01; Engine Labels: 8Ao-907-404.LBL 
Part No: 8AO 907 404 CC 
Component 2.0l R4 MK 4Ventil D01 

2 Faults Found: 
00516 - Closed Throttle (Idle) Position Switch (F60) 
30-00 - Open or Short to Plus 
*000587* - Mixture Control Adjustment Limit 
10-10 - Adaptation Limit Not reached - Intermittent 
Readiness: N/A[/QUOTE]


----------



## seahag (Jun 9, 2005)

*Follow-up FYI for other interested parties w/ similiar issues*



seahag said:


> Love to hear ideas on this one....The FACTS : 1991 Corrado AT # 096409061...
> 
> i have been driving the car for about a year like this...On start up the car is in limp mode...I drive gingerly for about 5 miles, stop shut the car off and restart.....upon restart the car is no longer in limp mode and shifts wonderfully with no issues or errors....It will run all day long just fine as long as it is warm. ...
> 
> ...





Just thought I would provide an update based on my continued investigation and work......

Decided based on symptoms above that I would replace the wiring harness and leave the Solinoids well enough alone....Ordered from the web site often referenced in this thread including a new gasket and tranny filter...Installation was straight forward and took about 2 hours...I did find that the tranny dip stick had to be removed to properly route wiring harness between the starter and the engine block.... Didn't seem to have a real tight fit going back in so I coated liberally with Loctite gasket maker before I re-installed into tranny....The clips snapped right into the solenoids although placement and alignment were key to getting it right.....

I tried to purchase the OEM VW tranny fluid from my local dealer but the going price was 32 dollars a quart.....Holy CRAP is this stuff GOLD?? I deferred and ended up at my local NAPA who quickly found a commensurate product for a fraction ----thankyou very much...

Closed up the tranny nice and tight - re-filled with tranny fluid and re-scanned with the vagcom and the old codes popped up....(Nearly had a heart attack)....Than I remembered that I had not cleared the codes before the fix so I cleared them and rescanned......NO FAULT FOUND !!! YAHOO...!!!

Fired her up - backed out of the garage and took a nice long cruise with the Tranny shifting like a dream in regular and sport mode.....SO ....Bottom Line....If your tranny behaves differently when cold vs. hot....suspect the wiring harness is defective....

Over & Out....


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

:thumbup: That's why this thread was made. Awesome.


----------



## 2VWS (Sep 6, 2006)

1996 VW Jetta 186,000miles -

Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 01M-927-733.lbl
Part No: 01M 927 733 E
Component: AG4 Getriebe 01M 2586 
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 00000 
VCID: 3276378FD447

1 Fault Found:
00262 - Solenoid Valve 3 (N90) 
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground

The car is in limp mode right now. Tried to erase fault but keeps coming back. When you say reset, do you mean to erase fault? No need to do basic settings? How to you check for individual solenoids with vagcom?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

Yes. Reset to basic settings and clear codes. Procedure does both.


----------



## dbdedel (May 19, 2009)

*096/01m Internal Harness DIY*



rychas1 said:


> Yes. Reset to basic settings and clear codes. Procedure does both.


I hope all of you are doing well and that all your tasks are being met with success. I’m new to your forum, i basically open only the Classified section for what I need to make upgrades. 
I have a 1991 Corrado G60 which I rarely use and has a 60k mileage. I saw this forum specifically the “096/01m Internal Harness DIY and I found it very enlightening because of the problem that has bugged me for years. I’ve had these car since it was 30,000 km and all the time i thought (forgive my ignorance) it was only three speed because of the 1,2,3 figure on the console panel. It was only after a couple of months back that I realized from this forum that my car is four speed. By the way, my car doesn’t switch to the fourth gear, despite the fact that the engine is strong, it only stays on the third.
I am particularly appreciative of “rychas1” who started this post because I began to have hope on this car that I’ve liked so much. It seems that my problem is bigger than the “Reset” advised here because I followed the instructions and I’ve also had the engine and transmission scanned for codes but there was none. So I’m looking seriously at the advises posted here specifically the “valve body. ” I’m particularly very encouraged by what “rychas1” said “nope. very easy. if u can change oil, u can do this. just follow the DIY to the letter.” I also appreciate his concern in providing very clear pictures. I likewise express my appreciation and gratitude for the other guys who posted very pertinent and helpful information. I haven’t done anything yet but i’ve copied and pasted everything, printed them and will study them further. If you don’t mind, I’ll keep you posted on the developments but offhand I can already see that my years of disgust with my transmission will be over. Happy New Year! You’re all GREAT!


----------



## bjohns86 (Nov 7, 2011)

dbdedel,

Are you certain that you aren't getting 4th gear (you would be feeling 3 shifts)? What is your engine speed at cruising speeds, which I guess for you would be in km/h?

Brad


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

Thank you for the kind words. Again, I did this thread because of the lack of info on these transmissions and the common gripes that people were having. We all make up the solidity of the thread.

As to your issue, before you do anything, verify that your car is not in sport mode. If you are in sport mode, it's gong to hold 3rd gear well into the higher speeds, as it is not needed when driving gently. Any car that I have had with a sport mode, I commonly forgot while driving wondering why my rpms were so high, only to realize that it was still in sport. A quick switch to economy mode and there is the next gear. Check it!


----------



## dbdedel (May 19, 2009)

*096/01m internal harness DIY*



bjohns86 said:


> dbdedel,
> 
> Are you certain that you aren't getting 4th gear (you would be feeling 3 shifts)? What is your engine speed at cruising speeds, which I guess for you would be in km/h?
> 
> Brad


Thank you for your preferential reply Brad and your suggestion. It give me comfort in your question that this situation is qute unusual since my mileage is only 60 kilometers. Many advises i get is to change to manual transmission and i find it disturbing (without offense to them) because what i expect is to resolve the problem and not change the system. However, i'm pretty sure i'm getting only three speeds because after the third gear the transmission doesn't shift anymore. 100 km/hr is all i can get and at that figure the engine is nearly at it's top. At least this makes me understand my high gas consumption problem, ie, i'm at high rpm at third gear. Ironically my wife keeps telling me that there is something wrong and i keep on insisting that the car is only three speed. At any rate i'm very glad i came to this forum because i know this matter would be resolved.


----------



## dbdedel (May 19, 2009)

*096/01m internal Harness DIY*



rychas1 said:


> Thank you for the kind words. Again, I did this thread because of the lack of info on these transmissions and the common gripes that people were having. We all make up the solidity of the thread.
> 
> As to your issue, before you do anything, verify that your car is not in sport mode. If you are in sport mode, it's gong to hold 3rd gear well into the higher speeds, as it is not needed when driving gently. Any car that I have had with a sport mode, I commonly forgot while driving wondering why my rpms were so high, only to realize that it was still in sport. A quick switch to economy mode and there is the next gear. Check it!




The feeling is mutual, i appreciate it that the "great guy" (that's who i think you are) has responded to my query. I'm sure that what you did has really helped a lot of VW owners. I for one really appreciate what you've done and also for the enlightening postings of the other kindhearted members. I'm been saddened by the fact that this car i've grown to love can only drive with three speed and i'm almost tempted to listen to my friends advises to change to manual. However, i don't want to do that, i like the comfort of an automatic. 
With regards to your advise, i appreciate it, my car however, is not in the "sports mode" although ive tried that on one or two occassion. By the way, now that you mentioned that, do you think it is possible that my car is in "sports mode?" How do i check that other than the indicator on the console box?


----------



## bjohns86 (Nov 7, 2011)

dbdedel,

On the 096's, as well as the 01M's, a design flaw exists where the engineers did not give the technician a whole lot of access to fluid pressure. On these units there exists on pressure port for monitoring line pressure. This is helpful to a point and can help determine if there is a hydraulic problem...most of the time. Being that your car is over 20 years old the ability to monitor the commands from the computer are limited if not non-existent so old school diagnostics come into play. In regards to it being in sport mode, I would side on that not being the case as you mentioned that you approach the upper rpm range and no 4th, even under light throttle. If we could see whether or not 4th is being commanded, that would be ideal. To do so would require us to monitor voltage at the harness. I am unsure as to how mechanical or what tools you have available to you so I will hold off for the time being. Basically, the computer grounds the EV1, EV2, EV3, and EV4 during 4th gear command. EV1 or EV3 could be culprits here as they are only used for 3rd (mechanical lock-up) and 4th. I will assume for the time being that 3rd (mechanical) is not coming on either as if it was than I think other problems would be present. You could check resistance of each of the solenoids to see if an open or shorted solenoid is present. You want to see about 60 ohms on the shift solenoids. I can send you a pin diagram if one is not present on this thread. This will require a multimeter. Before all of this, however, I would check the obvious things like sport mode and whether the computer actually thinks the shifter is in "D" and not "3", as usually the simplest things cause the most problems. The shifter switch (multi-function switch) can be easily checked with a multimeter. Let me know what your thoughts are. Good luck!

Brad


----------



## dbdedel (May 19, 2009)

*096/01 internal harness DIY*



bjohns86 said:


> dbdedel,
> 
> 
> Thank you for your views about this matter I appreciate it. The points you mentioned makes a lot of sense because as I mentioned, my transmission has not been abused. When I changed the filter, the pan was in fact very clean and there was very little metal dust from the wear and tear. According to your comment the fluid pressure factor is logical. Frankly, I am just getting an idea of the principles you mentioned but I don’t really understand them. I beg for your indulgence regarding my ignorance about the mechanics. Since I am however determined to resolve this with your assistance and the others who took interest in my flight, I have to start learning. I recall that there are previous postings regarding the resistance of each solenoid so I’ll look at those. If you won’t mind me asking, I had the transmission scanned and the mechanic said there were no codes. Isn’t it unusual that no codes were found and yet my transmission doesn’t shift from third to fourth. At any rate, tomorrow, as you wisely suggested, I’d check the obvious matter and look into the shifter switch (multi function switch). Again I’d like to express my gratitude for your very kind concern, people like you and the other guys who so unselfishly shared their experience makes this world a better place to live in.


----------



## bjohns86 (Nov 7, 2011)

dbdedel,

Thank you for the kind words. I appreicate your vigor and and curiousity, these are qualities often missing from both professional and amateur mechanics. So, as I mentioned earlier, being that your car is a 1991 I don't know what can and cannot be monitored via scanner so checking as to whether or not 4th is being commanded may be a bit more involved, however, we should cover the easiest and most common solutions/system checks first. I would assume the sport mode switch is a two-wire on-off style switch so you could disconnect the wires here and test for resistance/continuity here while you cycle the switch, it should read 0 ohms one way and infinity (or no reading) when you press the switch again. If this is the case, check for voltage at one of the two wires going into the switch with the key in the "on" position ( I am assuming this circuit is not "hot" all of the time so tah is why we would need to turn the key to "on"). Send me an email to [email protected] and I will forward a PDF of the wiring info back to you so you know what I am looking at when I describe things. Also, does your shifter go like: PRND32L? If not, how does it look?

Brad


----------



## insanedubposse (Mar 18, 2005)

i been read and re reading this thread for about a week or so now ,ive just gotten a mk3 jetta with an 01m with 80,000 on it ,no previous service records were found when i got it so naturally i wanna service it.how ever i was told by previous owner he think it needs some fluid because when you start the car and shift in to drive it has a slight delay b4 it engages to move after its warmed up its not as long of a delay .i dont have a vagcom but i also dont have any codes even with a generic scanner. my question is there a way to check the level since the trans doesnt have a dip stick,and is there a way to add a dip stick to the trans for future reference?


----------



## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

With regards to the 91 corrado dbdedel.

You can scan the trans computer with vag-com. If you have a 4 speed this needs to be your first step. If you have a code this might point you right to the fix. 

It probably will have "data groups" just like the newer cars but I cant say for sure because I've never scanned a 91 corrado.

Now, I do have to wonder if indeed you do have a 4 speed. My application shart shows 91 corrado as a 4 speed, but its been wrong before. 

Can you take a pic of the trans from the bottom?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

the 096 group in the corrado is a 4speed, just as the mk3, b3 and such. sport and econ overdrive.


----------



## dbdedel (May 19, 2009)

*096/01m Internal Harness DIY*



bjohns86 said:


> dbdedel,
> 
> "Thank you for the kind words. I appreicate your vigor and and curiousity, these are qualities often missing from both professional and amateur mechanics........"
> 
> ...


----------



## dbdedel (May 19, 2009)

*096/01m Internal Harness DIY*



CoolAirVw said:


> With regards to the 91 corrado dbdedel.
> 
> You can scan the trans computer with vag-com. If you have a 4 speed this needs to be your first step. If you have a code this might point you right to the fix.
> 
> Thank you for your kind concern, i appreciate your interest and sound suggestion. I think i will have it scanned again because it seems the VW shop i went too the first time did not give me the correct diagnosis. That might make matters a lot easier for me and everybody who have taken interest in this matter. I'll also look under the transmission.


----------



## bjohns86 (Nov 7, 2011)

dbdedel,

Also, email me ([email protected]) and I will send you those PDF's with the wiring data sheets and diagnostic data.

Brad


----------



## dbdedel (May 19, 2009)

*096/01m internal harness DIY*

I hope everybody (rychas1/bjohns86/CoolAirVw) is doing well and that your tasks are all met with success. Everybody has given their wise share of knowledge regarding this matter and this is just a quick note of give an update of my cars problem. As suggested by bjohns86, i started with the Sports Mode Switch, installed a used one i purchased from a Vortex member and for the first time the transmission shifted from third to fourth. However, I also had the automatic transmission scanned as CoolAirVW suggested and I was given the following readings: 
Address 02: Auto Transmission Labels:095-927-731.lbl 
Control Module Part Number: 095-927-731 F 
Component and/or Version: Digimat 0605 
Software Coding: Diagnose VW 
VCID: 2142EAA6ABD2CAC 
00293 Multi Function Switch (F125) 25-10 Unknown Switch Condition – Intermittent 
00518 Throttle Position Sensor (G69) 16-10 Signal Outside Specifications – Intermittent 
00529 Engine Speed Signal Missing 35-10 Intermittent 
00596 Short Between Solenoid Valve (or Injector) Wires 35-00 
00263 Transmission 04-10 Mechanical Malfunction Intermittent 
65535 Internal Control Module Memory Error 00-10 Intermittent 
The VW technician erased all the codes and advised me to come back after a week to check if the codes come back. However, the transmission often returns to the original problem and I reset the transmission as rychas1 always advised and transmission shifts from third to fourth again. I have yet to check the solenoids. With this initial feedback perhaps somebody could give me an initial idea where the problem lies and what should be my next move. 
I appreciate all your assistance and I wish everybody “a good day" !


----------



## js911sc (Nov 8, 2010)

*Thanks*

Thanks to the contributors on this thread and forum. 

I'd spent the better part of a year rebuilding the engine in my wife's 99 cabrio and did not have a transmission problem before the engine rebuild. 

After I got the engine back in and running I was in limp mode. I came to the AT forum looking for some clues for my 01M, found this thread and kept going back to the solenoid wire harness. 

Tonight, I pulled the bracket holding the round connector on top of the transmission and straightened all the kinks out of the harness from there to where it enters the transmission. Took the car out one more time and it shifted perfectly. Cleared the codes and none returned. 

I still have to figure out if it was a kink in the solenoid harness or just not making good contact on the round connector. Right now, I've got a big smile on my face. Thanks!


----------



## dbdedel (May 19, 2009)

*096 diy*

I'm glad at that big smile on your face. I hope to have that big smile too, i tried what you did, cleaned both plugs with electrical cleaner but my problem has not been resolved. At least i know that my 096 is now shifting from third to fourth.....occasionally and one day i'll finally have the same big smile. Have a good day and thank you for sharing.  


Thanks to the contributors on this thread and forum. 

I still have to figure out if it was a kink in the solenoid harness or just not making good contact on the round connector. Right now, I've got a big smile on my face. Thanks![/QUOTE]


----------



## dbdedel (May 19, 2009)

*096/01m DIY*



rychas1 said:


> the 096 group in the corrado is a 4speed, just as the mk3, b3 and such. sport and econ overdrive.


 Hi! Good morning, just a quick word that i'm going over diligently on the postings you have started knowing i will find an identical information that will resolve the issues of my 096. Likewise, i'd like to express my appreciation for advising the priority of the Sports Mode function of the transmission since as i have mentioned has made the shifting work. I'm not sure if a new Sports Mode switch is the right approach but i'm looking at all the other concerned enthusiast who shared their experience.


----------



## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

dbdedel said:


> The VW technician erased all the codes and advised me to come back after a week to check if the codes come back. However, the transmission often returns to the original problem and I reset the transmission as rychas1 always advised and transmission shifts from third to fourth again.


 When your trans "returns to the original problem" your trans computer is triggering a trouble code. When you "reset as ryshas1 advised" you are clearing the code. 

You need to see what code is coming back.


----------



## bjohns86 (Nov 7, 2011)

I agree with CoolAirVW, you need to figure out what codes are recurring. From what you posted, I don't think the problem is inside the transmission, including the internal harness. It looks to be harness related, whether it is an intermittent short or open circuit, I don't know. The obvious would be to look for breaks in the protecting conduit around the harness, pinched wires, loose grounds or corrosion. Odd ly enough, even significant corrosion on the battery terminals has been linked to transmission problems on Jaguars and Ford vehicles. You said that you check all of the obvious connectors for corrosion. Did you check the multifunction switch with the data I sent you to verify that all of the contacts are opening/closing when commanded?

Brad


----------



## Shawn-m (Nov 15, 2010)

*drive in all gears*

Hi all 
My daughters 2000 beetle is in drive all the time, IE park,reverse drive and so on. would this be cause by connectors and wire harness? or is the trans and valve body problems ?

thanks guys it's been a great write up


----------



## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

Shawn-m said:


> Hi all
> My daughters 2000 beetle is in drive all the time, IE park,reverse drive and so on. would this be cause by connectors and wire harness? or is the trans and valve body problems ?
> 
> thanks guys it's been a great write up


This question really should be in its own thread...forum protocol is that if you problem doesn't directly relate to the topic at hand, then start your own thread, which I realize you dont know if it does or not, which is why you should've started your own thread but .....

First of all determine if your shifter cable is hooked up and working. If your car will start in park and neutral but not in reverse, drive, 3, 2 and 1 then its working. Also verify it latches in park and rolls when not in park. It also doesn't hurt to have a helper move the shifter while you look at the linkage on the trans to verify its working. 

Or maybe just look in vagcom data groups to see that the "range" is changing on the range sensor (f125). 

After that if its all ok, you should pull the pan and inspect for metal contamination indicating blown up planets. If your pan doesn't look like a silver mine, then look to make sure the manual linkage is hooked up to the manual valve have your helper move the shifter to see that its working.

Planets can break up so bad that the trans locks in forward. Also the forward clutch can burn up so bad that it welds itself together and is on all the time. Usually this makes bind up in reverse but after a while reverse can burn out too and your left with forward movement in reverse.

Probably your gonna need a trans.


----------



## dbdedel (May 19, 2009)

*096/01m DIY*

I agree with CoolAirVW....
Brad[/QUOTE]
Thank you for your advise Brad and also to CoolAirVW, i appreciate it. I'm very sorry for my delayed response, i've been away for days and i just returned. As i have mentioned earlier, i've resolved to deal with the issues notwithstanding the fact that this is the first time i would do so and ironically the matters are beyond my simple know how, not only because i like the car but i think it is because there are kindhearted guys like you trying hard to assist me. I've become morally obliged to make your time worth, i appreciate you guys. I hope that in your kindhearted efforts all your tasks are blest in return. I'm comforted by the fact that the matters to be resolved are becoming more simple, initially i though i would go through the valve body and solenoids. As CoolAirVW advised and as you confirmed it Brad, i will have the transmission scanned to know where the problem is coming from. It might be good new to tell you that when i had the transmission scanned, the technician mentioned something about some wires being shorted. I'd look into that and also the connectors. How do you exactly check that "all of the contacts are opening/closing when commanded?" Have a goo day. david


----------



## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

dbdedel said:


> It might be good new to tell you that when i had the transmission scanned, the technician mentioned something about some wires being shorted.


If and when you have it scanned again write down the code and the definition.


----------



## alexvwjetta (Apr 4, 2010)

Scan: 01 02 03 08 12 15 25 41 56
can you guys help me what should i do next


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 01: Engine Labels: 037-906-258.lbl

Part No: 037 906 258 AE

Component: MOTOR PMC 4 

Shop #: 2227355905 

VCID: 5EB89035DA2CB43




1 Fault Found:

00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28) 

03-00 - No Signal

Readiness: N/A




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 096-927-733.lbl

Part No: 096 927 733 AT

Component: AG4 Getriebe 096 2046 

Coding: 00000

Shop #: WSC 00000 

VCID: 73EED18141AE09B




2 Faults Found:

00270 - Solenoid Valve 7 (N94) 

31-00 - Open or Short to Ground

00638 - Engine/Transmission Electrical Connection 2 

03-10 - No Signal - Intermittent




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 15: Airbags Labels: 701-909-601.lbl

Part No: 701 909 601 D

Component: AIRBAG ZAE MASKE 3 V00 

Coding: 00068

Shop #: WSC 00000 

VCID: 152ACF196F9AB7B




3 Faults Found:

00532 - Supply Voltage B+ 

07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

01025 - Trigger for On Board Diagnostic Lamp; Malfunction 

31-00 - Open or Short to Ground

00588 - Airbag Igniter; Driver Side (N95) 

32-00 - Resistance too High




End ---------------------------------------------------------------------


----------



## insanedubposse (Mar 18, 2005)

I too have a car with same trans codes as the scan above


Sent using pony express


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

Clear the TCUs, check all connections for cleanliness, and drive/rescan. If it persists, then address each one separately.


----------



## alexvwjetta (Apr 4, 2010)

Im planning to replace the wiring harnes ..which is the rigth one?


----------



## super561 (Apr 11, 2012)

*glad this thread is still going*

i have a 98 beetle 2.0 it will not shift out of first gear, and every time i accelerate the car stalls. i can only accelerate very slowly up to about 30 mph and still won't shift, and goes into reverse easily. i have seven codes from the regular scanner, they are: 
p0753 shift solenoid a circuit electrical 
p0758 " b " 
p0763 " c " 
p0768 " d " 
p0773 " e " 
p1778 manufacturer control transmission 
p0748 pressure control solenoid a circuit electrical 
also the ac, power windows, rear hatch, or interior lights are not working and the fuses are all good. the radio is not present. i am mechanically inclined, i have taken apart neon transmissions and valve bodies and fixed and just recently rebuilt a 2001 oldsmobile alero 2.4 engine. i found this thread and starting reading from the beginning. please help, this car is killing me. and thanks to all ahead of time, and these threads are appreciated and very helpful to people like me and alot of others. thanks again. :banghead:


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

alexvwjetta said:


> Im planning to replace the wiring harnes ..which is the rigth one?


 See my original post. The link is there. 



super561 said:


> i have a 98 beetle 2.0 it will not shift out of first gear, and every time i accelerate the car stalls. i can only accelerate very slowly up to about 30 mph and still won't shift, and goes into reverse easily. i have seven codes from the regular scanner, they are:
> p0753 shift solenoid a circuit electrical
> p0758 " b "
> p0763 " c "
> ...


 I know that you won't want to hear this, but you MUST scan with vcds/vagcom because the generic codes and exactly that...generic. I gives you an idea, but not always precisely the direction to go. I recommend, assuming that you just don't have access to vcds, to clear the codes, drive and rescan. If the same codes reappear, start with checking all your grounds. The A/C, windows, and such are not on the internal harness circuit, but they may share a common ground in the engine bay. Check those on the transmission and the front block, and under battery..all of them! The key is to try to isolate the codes before you dig in there. Report back.


----------



## jettamomma (Apr 13, 2012)

*Not sure where to start.. advise?*

Hi everyone. Pardon my noobness but I'm new-ish to imports. Was a strictly american make kind of gal until I got this VW. Had it 5 years now, never had issues with anything major that I couldn't handle. But now I am stumped.... Here's the history:

Took it to a local shop because of "ticking". They replaced the flex plate between the tranny and drive train, the timing belt, serpentine, etc. Nothing major. But they did have the tranny out of the car.. This was between March 8th and 16th this year. Fast forward to March 28th and it starts having shifting issues. Mainly it started with selector problems, P to R fine, R to D would get stuck in N. Seemed just to be a little glitch. Next thing I know, it goes into limp mode on me last night. Display on the panel is solid black in the background after about 2 minutes of driving, definitely stuck in limp mode/3rd. I don't have access to a vagcom but I did get a generic OBD-II on it and it's coming up:

P1778 Solenoid EV7 Electrical Malfunction
P0753 Shift Solenoid A Electrical
P0758 Shift Solenoid B Electrical
P0763 Shift Solenoid C Electrical
P0768 Shift Solenoid D Electrical
P0773 Shift Solenoid E Electrical

ABS light has come on and gone off for months. I'm thinking there's faults in the ABS control module. Maybe lack of communication between the ABS control module and ECM?

I also called the shop that I had taken it to for the repairs mentioned above and they basically told me that I needed a new tranny and that I could set up an appointment. After reminding them that they had the tranny out of the car less than a month ago and now it's suddenly having issues, they told me that there was no possible way that it what they did could have caused this. My gut feeling tells me that when the tranny was hooked back up, something wasn't done right somewhere. I haven't touched it yet. That's basically why I'm here. With the faults being all electrical and all solenoids - I highly doubt there is any way that they could all go bad in one shot like that. So, my question is where do I start? I'm totally willing to get my hands dirty here because I'm sick and tired of being ripped off by mechanics who see a woman and think I don't know anything. I spent most of my childhood and teen years learning american makes and I haven't done much besides regular maintenance on this being that it's an import.. But you gotta start sometime. Figure I might as well learn now.

If I need to get a vagcom reading on it - where can I do that? Are they expensive or do I have to go to the dealership and bend over? Just curious.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

jettamomma said:


> Hi everyone. Pardon my noobness but I'm new-ish to imports. Was a strictly american make kind of gal until I got this VW. Had it 5 years now, never had issues with anything major that I couldn't handle. But now I am stumped.... Here's the history:
> 
> Took it to a local shop because of "ticking". They replaced the flex plate between the tranny and drive train, the timing belt, serpentine, etc. Nothing major. But they did have the tranny out of the car.. This was between March 8th and 16th this year. Fast forward to March 28th and it starts having shifting issues. Mainly it started with selector problems, P to R fine, R to D would get stuck in N. Seemed just to be a little glitch. Next thing I know, it goes into limp mode on me last night. Display on the panel is solid black in the background after about 2 minutes of driving, definitely stuck in limp mode/3rd. I don't have access to a vagcom but I did get a generic OBD-II on it and it's coming up:
> 
> ...


Wow. You go girl! As with the thread before yours, start with the basics. A bad tranny ground can cause this, especially after some time to work its way loose. A unsecure connection. VCDS can be had on rosstech.com, ebay, or just look on the vortex thread for vagcom owners. You may find one near by your location. Eliminate the basic stuff and then we can determine if it's your actual harness that's bad.


----------



## super561 (Apr 11, 2012)

*vag com*

is the vcds (vag com) just a software disc and the cable, and you just upload the software to your lap top? or do i have to buy a special vcds computer tool?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

the former. actually its just the cable and the download from rosstech.com. the ebay cables work fine with the old 409.1 version 3rd party version.


----------



## super561 (Apr 11, 2012)

*ordered the cable*



rychas1 said:


> the former. actually its just the cable and the download from rosstech.com. the ebay cables work fine with the old 409.1 version 3rd party version.


i just ordered the vag com cable that came with the downloadable software off of ebay but they said it does'nt include the license, so what can i do about that? and i ended up taking my beetle (mentioned above in an earlier post) to a guy that repair only volkswagen, (mostly beetles) but he said when clears the codes from my transmission, after a few seconds all seven codes pop right back up. what could be the cause of this? and my throttle body won't accept the tba. i mentioned the cable but i just ordered it right before i came to the thread tonight and my car is still at the shop, so i have'nt had a chance yet to try the cable myself.:banghead:


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

Did you check all the other stuff mentioned earlier?


----------



## super561 (Apr 11, 2012)

*still nothing*

ok, my car has just been sitting at this shop. before i took it i checked all the grounds except the one under the battery tray and by the driver headlight. (probably the culprits since the car had work done to it before i bought it) 
the guy at the shop said he reprogrammed the transmission with vcds and it was good for a minute then all the codes reappeared while still hooked up to vag com. he also told me i needed a throttle body because it would not except tba. i bought a tb and still would not adapt. why would'nt a tb adapt? what could be the nature of these two problems? would the harness let the trans be fixed by reprogramming then go right back to all the codes? please answer, i need my car from this place today after trying to adapt tb he was pressing the accelerator and you could see on the computer screen the percentage i guess of the accelerator being pressed... i dont know.


----------



## insanedubposse (Mar 18, 2005)

Just replaced the trans ribbion,and cleaned the valvebody and solenoids,no more codes car seemss to shift smooth so far


Sent using pony express


----------



## alexvwjetta (Apr 4, 2010)

hi guys I new on the forum, question how can i identify the solenoid and epc solenoids I was replacing the wiring harnes and know how i mixed them up and now I'm confuse need helpppp pleaseeee.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

see page 1. everything was outlines for you.:thumbup:


----------



## alexvwjetta (Apr 4, 2010)

rychas1 said:


> see page 1. everything was outlines for you.:thumbup:


 thank u man ...but i ran into another problem one of the epc solenoid #1 din't fit then i tried on the second solenoid hole and fits in there but never on #1 any ideas?


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

has to be perfectly lined up. they are the same size. there might be a fraction of a millimeter of clearance around it.


----------



## luva (May 6, 2012)

*1998 vw jetta*

nice ad man,thank you, i am working on 98 vw jetta and according to my launch x431 the firs solenoid is 1-n88 and so on am i right or am i confuse,because your ad said that 1 is n89,let me know if you put the number wrong plz.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

nope. the numbers are directly from the repair manual.


----------



## team~bunny (May 16, 2002)

My b3 passat GLX is a auto and there's a plug on the throttle cable, besides the tps does that help control the kick down?

Thanks Ted


----------



## dbdedel (May 19, 2009)

CoolAirVw said:


> If and when you have it scanned again write down the code and the definition.


 
Hi! I'm very sorry for not posting any developments about this matter that you've all been very kind enough to resolve. I'm been away for about three months and now that i'm back i will have the transmission scanned next week. 
To summarize the past developments when i replaced the Sports Mode Switch as Rychas 1 advised my transmission now shifts from third to fourth. However more often it doesn't so everytime i use the car i have to do a reset. There are steps that bjohns86 has advised and i will all look into it. I'll keep you guys posted have a GREAT day. :wave:


----------



## Bazeybee1 (Jul 22, 2011)

Hi there is some great stuff here but cant see my fault so looking for help?

I have a '98 Golf 1.6 Auto that when you select D it will not select any gear and remains in neutral although the engine revs rise to compensate. Absolutely no problems with any of the other gears and if you drive off in 3 and let it go through the gears you can then if you gently move the selector into D actually get 4th till you slow down or stop then it goes back to neutral.
Checked for fault codes and initially got below
Sunday, 05 February 2012, 11:44:21.

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.1

Control Module Part Number: 01M 927 733 EQ

Component and/or Version: AG4 Getriebe 01M 3960

Software Coding: 00027

Work Shop Code: WSC 00000

VCID: 83798C0F821B

1 Fault Found:

00652 - Gear Monitoring

27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

Cleared this but still no different. Have taken some scans of the measuring blocks but afraid it means nothing to me. This was done with engine running and selector in D position.

Saturday	14	July	2012	16:36:19 
01M 927 733 EQ AG4 Getriebe 01M 3960 

Group A:	'001 Group B:	'001 Group C:	'001 
Selector Lever	Throttle Valve	Value of	Multi-Function Selector Lever	Throttle Valve	Value of	Multi-Function Selector Lever	Throttle Valve	Value of	Multi-Function
TIME	Position	Voltage	Accelerator Pedal	Switch	TIME	Position	Voltage	Accelerator Pedal	Switch	TIME	Position	Voltage	Accelerator Pedal	Switch
Marker	STAMP V	% STAMP V	% STAMP V	%	
1.36 D	0.27	2.7	1010	2.94 D	0.27	2.7	1010	4.54 D	0.27	2.7	1010
1	6.2 D	0.27	2.7	1010	7.93 D	0.27	2.7	1010	9.48 D	0.27	2.7	1010

Saturday	14	July	2012	16:34:23 
01M 927 733 EQ AG4 Getriebe 01M 3960 

Group A:	'007 Group B:	'006 Group C:	'005 
Driving Mode	Lock-Up clutch	Engine Speed	Value of Road Inclination	Hill Factor	Sport Factor	Value of ATF Temperature	Multi-Function	Gear to be	Engine Speed
TIME Slip Slipping Accelerator Pedal	TIME	(calculated) Accelerator Pedal	TIME Switch 2	engaged	
Marker	STAMP /min /min	%	STAMP	°C	%	%	%	STAMP	°C /min
0.53 1 +	810	870	2.7	2.69	0	0	2.7	2.7	7.45	97	1000001 1H	870

Would appreciate any pointers.
Many thanks


----------



## n01tk (Jun 1, 2012)

*2001 Golf 1.8 tdi lockup intermittant*

New to forum. My lock up is not working properly. This started when I brought it to transmission shop to replace flywheel ( starter took out flywheel). The flywheel and torque converter all one assembly. So I have a new converter and lock up mechanism. 740 trouble code shows up and lockup disengages. Repaced torque converter with another rebuild. Same problem. Bored out valve body and installed new over sized valve related to lock up. 740 code still appearing. Replaced internal harness. Code still coming in and out. Any ideas what next to try?


----------



## dbdedel (May 19, 2009)

dbdedel said:


> Hi! I'm very sorry for not posting any developments about this matter that you've all been very kind enough to resolve. I'm been away for about three months and now that i'm back i will have the transmission scanned next week.
> To summarize the past developments when i replaced the Sports Mode Switch as Rychas 1 advised my transmission now shifts from third to fourth. However more often it doesn't so everytime i use the car i have to do a reset. There are steps that bjohns86 has advised and i will all look into it. I'll keep you guys posted have a GREAT day. :wave:


 UPDATE on 60,000 km 096 Transmission on Limp Mode: 
It took me a long time to continue working on this problem since it's too technical for a novice like me. In the past months i've just decided to "let the experts do it" but in vain. The dealerships referred me to specialized shops who gave up on the problem for the simple reason that they do not have the technology to work on a 1991 Corrado. Surprisingly, none of the so called experts are even able to make comments like what i read in this forum. In fact, not one can even "scan" the transmission and i can't understand this because in the postings, i noted that the 096 can be scanned. Not wanting to give up on the car (i've spent too much time and effort on it) as "rychas 1, BJohns 86 qnd CoolairVW" suggessted i've checked the Sports Switch and Solenoids resistance but didn't get a negative result. However, there was a post in another thread that "specifically stressed that when there is an electrical issue on a 096, the transmission goes on "limp mode" or only on third gear. So i've bought all the solenoids and wiring harness from Makco and will attempt to replace this. I'm not sure what will happen but i post the result. While i'm in it, can anybody provide specific instructions on how to separate the harness from the solenoid in the valve body and that collar on the top of the transmission? I can just "force separate" it but i can only be sure i have right part from Makco when i install it. 
Have a good day!


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

I detail your exact questions in the beginning of this thread. Good luck!


----------



## dbdedel (May 19, 2009)

rychas1 said:


> I detail your exact questions in the beginning of this thread. Good luck!


 My apologies, i've gone through many postings that i failed to look at it again. Anyway, i did see it and i've resolved the matter except that the lock on the solenoid cable which specifically cautioned not to lose was lost. I even kept it in a plastic box when i started my work but in the process of installation i managed to lose it. However, i'm very happy to advise you and CoolAirVW, bjohns86 and the others who in one way or another showed concern that this whole problem is resolved. My car is now shifting normally and very efficiently from first to fourth gear. 
Your encouragement and concern empowered me to do what the VW dealers could not or refuse to do. I couldn't have done this if it were not for your strong advise that i can do it. By the way, all the solenoids were working but i replaced them anyway because when i was removing the wires one of the connector was broken. Since i bought all the parts from the party you suggessted i decided to just install all of them. I suspect that the wiring harness is the one at fault. It's so nice to see a 62,000 km car that for three years was in limp mode is now working very efficiently. 
Thre are two other terminals beside the the Solenoid harness on top of the transmission. One has a Yellow, White and Black wire. The Black wire was cut and i can't find where it is connected too. I took a picture but i don't know how to upload it. Could this Black wire be a Ground wire? 
Thank you everybody, this site is "really great!" Not only have i learned a lot, i've done what i would not have done before.


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

That's why we post this information:thumbup:

On top of the transmission are two speed sensors. Posting a picture is as easy as taking it, uploading to photobucket.com, and then copying and pasting the image link into this box. Easy. If it still sounds complicated, I can help. Just identify which sensor (left or right) and the cut wire below, from this link.

http://forums.subdriven.com/showthread.php?4821718-Transmission-sensor-problem-P0722&p=68961615


----------



## dbdedel (May 19, 2009)

rychas1 said:


> That's why we post this information:thumbup:
> 
> On top of the transmission are two speed sensors. Posting a picture is as easy as taking it, uploading to photobucket.com, and then copying and pasting the image link into this box. Easy. If it still sounds complicated, I can help. Just identify which sensor (left or right) and the cut wire below, from this link.
> 
> http://forums.subdriven.com/showthread.php?4821718-Transmission-sensor-problem-P0722&p=68961615


Thank you and i hope that all your tasks are met with success in return for your very kind concern. From Post no. 7 of the link that you provided, it looks like that connector with the yellow and white wires connected to it. The problem with mine is that there is also a black wire that comes from the harness and it was cut so i don't know where it is connected. Upon close examination, that black wire seems to show evident discoloration like wire that it was burned from heat. Likewise in the no. 07 post by CoolairVw however, my transmission doesn't have the G38 with the Red and Green wire. I'm not sure if my reply could give an accurate picture of what im trying to illustrate, so perchaps i have to learn to figure how this Photobucket works. Anyway, i hope you and the other readers fo this post will have a good day.


----------



## dbdedel (May 19, 2009)

Here's the link of Photobucket, so sorry i'm sure this is not the right way to do it. There's the yellow and white wire and from that harness is a black wire and i soldered a white wire to connect it to where it should go. 

http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/d...t=3&o=1&_suid=1364061199062024700049641030375


----------



## dbdedel (May 19, 2009)

dbdedel said:


> Thank you and i hope that all your tasks are met with success in return for your very kind concern. From Post no. 7 of the link that you provided, it looks like that connector with the yellow and white wires connected to it. The problem with mine is that there is also a black wire that comes from the harness and it was cut so i don't know where it is connected. Upon close examination, that black wire seems to show evident discoloration like wire that it was burned from heat. Likewise in the no. 07 post by CoolairVw however, my transmission doesn't have the G38 with the Red and Green wire. I'm not sure if my reply could give an accurate picture of what im trying to illustrate, so perchaps i have to learn to figure how this Photobucket works. Anyway, i hope you and the other readers fo this post will have a good day.



Hi! Just a quick note to advise that the following link where CoolAirVw replied gave the answer to my query about the Black Wire going to the Vehicle Speed Sensor. Thanks a lot my long time problem has been resolved .
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4662396-096-VSS-Wiring-Question-(-91-Corrado)


----------



## cabuk (Aug 17, 2002)

*ATF leak from solenoid harness connector...*

Apparently my cabrio has been losing ATF very slowly over some months (down by 250ml). By the time I discovered it (a couple of ATF spots on the garage floor), the bottom of the engine and gearbox was covered in oily crap. After some cleaning-off much of the crap and using the car as usual, I've eventually determined that the ATF is leaking from the solenoid harness connector. 

This very informative thread (thanks rychas1) confirms what I've read elsewhere that I'm very likely to damage the harness if I remove it. 

I'm thinking of using a suitable sealant to reseal the connector where it exits the transmission casing with a suitable sealant, that could work? 
That's after draining down the ATF (and changing the filter); using brake cleaner (or similar) to get the connector and casing area clean and dry, before applying the sealant. 

Do you think that's a practical solution? 

Is there a washer between the connector and the casing? (ETKA and ELSA are not clear, and my Golf/Jetta 3 Bentley doesn't cover this harness removal). Could my leak be caused by that washer failing? 

Any guidance will be very welcome...


----------



## cabuk (Aug 17, 2002)

*re - ATF leak from solenoid harness connector...*

OK, I'll open a new thread to deal with this problem...


----------



## longb00 (Sep 22, 2013)

*Another thing to look at.*

Thanks for such great information. It helped a lot.
I found that an animal had chewed the cable going into the transmission. I ended up repairing the cable by soldering a new piece. It worked great. I found the problem because I had just fixed the vacuum lines on my F150 for the same reason.
Thanks again.


----------



## buggyboy20 (Aug 13, 2008)

After buying my very first Corrado...91 auto...I'm so glad this thread exists...it let's me know that chances are strong that the tranny will one day soon be "normal" again...I'm still working on getting the car running...sat for years and had lacquer where there should have been gas....175k km's and I'm sure to double that myself...I was told by the guy I bought it from that the ribbon harness was done and should have a good idea in a few days...progress to be posted of what I find...and as luck would have it a friend has a snapon scanner w/vagcom...so I really won't have to 2nd guess or poke and prod till I find any issues and resolve them...subscribed as well...makes finding you much easier if needed


----------



## cookiemonster131 (May 28, 2010)

ok guys i am chiming in on this thread. I have read it front to back. i bought a 96 cabrio 130k with an 01m transmission. it was in limp mode. the wiring harness is new aftermarket replacement. I ran the vagcom and it showed solenoid 6 bad. sure enough i tested it and it was grounded out. I replaced it with one testing 4.6 ohms and refilled the transmission. 

I filled it with 3 qts and lowered the car to level. started it and cycled it through the gears. pulled the plug as the bentley manual says to set the fluid level and about 1/2 qt came out. meaning 2.5 qts left after the filter change and refill. drove the car around the block and it shifts hard from 1st to 2nd but the rest shifts well.

i think i need more fluid but anything about 2.5 qts runs out of the drain plug overflow fill system. 

any ideas guys as why it is shifting funny still or if i need more fluid?


----------



## webrx (Nov 23, 2013)

Just taking a moment to say thanks for all the great info in this killer thread.

I have a 93 golf, 00268 N93 solenoid 6 error, replacing solenoid 6 this week, if I can find an hour or two to get under the car.

Thanks again.

Dave


----------



## AlpineAddict (Aug 7, 2011)

Do you think this could fix code P2637? I've had problems with this in the past, and it's always reoccurred, and i'm effing sick of it. If this is it. If you can shed any light on it, I'll paypal you a case of beer (or at least the money for one) . Thanks!


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

As stated in the very beginning, this only helps once verified by vcds that a solenoid is bad or temp sensor code from the tcu reappears after clearing and fluid level checks. Please get a vcds code. Generic "P" codes really don't help much. A battery disconnect on both terminals, touching positive and negative for 10 sec will clear all stored codes. If you do both of these methods and your issue returns, you've got bigger issues. My opinion: you've got bigger issues, but it can't hurt to clear codes first. Let us know what happens.


----------



## yohan12 (Jul 11, 2011)

I'm getting this code in vagcom

00293 - Multi-function Switch (F125)
25-10 - Unknown Switch Condition - Intermittent

Could this be the harness or the solenoids? Or both? My car will randomly shift down from 4th gear to 3rd, then shoot back up. Any feedback would be appreciated


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

It could just simply be the multifunction switch!


----------



## yohan12 (Jul 11, 2011)

I replaced the switch before, so maybe the wiring to that. I just wasn't sure but I'll check that out first


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

In that case, yes, check the wiring.


----------



## cookiemonster131 (May 28, 2010)

hey guys I have a 96 cabrio 01m auto. 

I have replaced all solenoids and harness and the car runs and drives fine. the dash indicator is all off and all on and sometimes showing 3 gears selected at a time. 

I know it is most likely the multi function switch per my studies but I cannot seem to find the switch for sale besides on ebay as used.

any ideas guys?


----------



## FLCanuck (Aug 3, 2013)

It's pricey but they do have it for sale here, scroll down to solenoids/switches

http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/VW-095.html


----------



## cookiemonster131 (May 28, 2010)

OK guys problem...

solenoid valve 6 
31-00 open or short to ground

This is the code I am getting...

Problem is the wiring harness (5000 miles roughly) has been replaced as has all of the solenoids (1000 miles roughly)

I pulled the pan tonight and pulled the number 6 valve and replaced it will a tested good used one. When I pulled the one from the car sadly it OHMed correctly also. replaced it anyway with the used tested good one. 

Still getting the same code....

no other transmission codes... 

anyone have any ideas? Could it be the TCM?


----------



## cookiemonster131 (May 28, 2010)

replaced TCM with no correction. going to start probing wires from the TCM to the wiring harness at the transmission. anyone have a diagram of the wiring harness pin out for either?


----------



## 97Cabrio18GL (Jul 21, 2014)

@cookiemonster131: May this help!

http://certifiedtransmission.wordpress.com/2013/08/01/volkswagen-can-of-worms/


----------



## yohan12 (Jul 11, 2011)

> yohan12
> I'm getting this code in vagcom
> 
> 00293 - Multi-function Switch (F125)
> ...


If anyone is having this problem and is wondering, swapping the solenoids and harness ended up fixing this.


----------



## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

97Cabrio18GL said:


> @cookiemonster131: May this help!
> 
> http://certifiedtransmission.wordpress.com/2013/08/01/volkswagen-can-of-worms/



Ya, right! I read that article when it came out in Trans digest magazine, several years ago. Lots of good tech info in that article...... EXCEPT... the whole premise is that a low resistance solenoid was placed where a high resistance solenoid goes and that low resistance solenoid allowed too much current (amps) to flow through the computer and burned out the computer. This is impossible. Although the low resistance solenoid looks very similar and would plug in, the low resistance solenoid is larger and will NOT go into the hole where a high resistance solenoid goes. Certainly you could put the high resistance solenoid into the hole where a low resistance solenoid goes but this wouldn't burn out the computer as it would make lower current (amps) to flow through and as everyone knows too much amps through a computer burns it up. Too little current (amps) does nothing but triggers a trouble code. 

I tried to contact the author of that article (who've I've known for years) and ask him about this, and he chose to not reply to my emails. I have to assume he had the car come in with a low high resistance solenoid in where a low resistance solenoid goes and the author thought (hypothetically) "What would happen if someone put a low resistance solenoid where a high resistance solenoid goes?" and when he realized it could burn out the computer he decided to write this article. But the author never tried to see if a low resistance solenoid would fit the hole where a high resistance solenoid goes. The company the author works for requires its tech employees to write those articles and there is high pressure and deadlines, so most likely the author was pressure to have an article ready and this "false tech" is what he came up with. If he ever reads this I hope this doesn't ruin our freindship, but I am 100% certain about this. It would take a sledge hammer and some major effort to jam a low resistance solenoid where a high resistance solenoid goes. 

Now a high resistance solenoid could fail and for whatever reason draw too much amperage (shorted solenoid making less resistance than it should) and burn out the computer, but that is NOT the premise of the article.


----------



## daily_risked (Aug 20, 2014)

Aloha, New to posting, long time reader. But just read page 1-10 and wow great and almost car saving thread that made me register to say this!

Anyway on my own car now (01 Cabrio 01m) since bought the car with ~80k miles everything trans wise was beautiful, till I changed those 4 O-rings on the cooler... seems the guy before me let the top O-ring leak slowly forever and after time flooded the creases on top of the trans. As I took off the hoses, coolent went everywhere and ever since then car went into limp mode. Limped her back home sputting back and w/e into 3erd, rip apart all the harnesses/connections and everything looks fine, until I flipped over the solenoid harness ribbon... there was a hole in it with exposed metal wires sticking out. So what im guessing is that after time of the trans heating and cooling with the suet that laid on it made the hole and when I made the awesome mistake of not pinching off the hoses, coolant got under to the exposed wire and shorted.

New ribbon should be here Friday, and we will see after I do a manual reset, but if from there and no luck, looks like I will have to finally get VAG COM to exactly figure out if my problem is further into the solenoids or just a simple speed sensor! My cruise control has not worked in awhile as well so this should be interesting.

Wish me luck and I will try to keep updated!


UPDATED: She is back!!! turned out to be what I thought it was (shorted solenoid ribbon). I did no have to use vag com though. Just used a generic obd2 reader, and cleared whatever codes it found and she is back shifting better then before!

Goodluck to the rest of u guys!


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

:thumbup:


----------



## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

Anybody ever put any mild forced induction to one of these?


----------



## Silly husband (Jan 12, 2015)

*Great post*

I'm sure it's been said and I'll read it soon enough but Ty for the info provided in this post. My wife loves her little cabrio or I might have blown it up by now  lol. The answer I needed was covered in the first couple pages so Ty very much for posting this for those if us who know enough but Not everything


----------



## chiptooth (Aug 23, 2015)

*VW and forum noob*

Hello. Recently acquired a 98 golf gl auto.. No CEL, limp mode, getting 0753,0758,0763,0768,0773,p1778, 0748,0722, from what i scoured from this thread i am more than likely dealing with harness issues, as i was told "white smoke from drivers side cowl" and had been in limp mode since.. Just looking for any input, as im new to forums and VWs in general, rhanks


----------



## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

Erase codes and try again. Look for a pattern.


----------



## Mestizomatt (Feb 3, 2016)

Okay so I have a 2001 Jetta 1.8 turbo I've swapped the transmission already and I have one transmission code that just won't go away whenever I start the car it starts off in 3rd gear and won't go past 3rd gear however, it shifts manually through 1st through 3rd gear perfect.
I've also swapped all solenoids in the transmission correctly and brand new braided wire harness. 
When i clear the code through VagCom. It shifts into 2nd gear right on time but then quickly switches back to third in limp mode. idk what to do at this point. Thinking about junking this pos. but ive replaced literally every part on the car its practically new again  Since i live in california i have to pass smog and cant with a damn P0785 Engine code...AND YES i already replaced ALL solenoids AND HARNESS. Someone help please!!


----------



## VR6 MK (Sep 17, 2016)

Hi all,

Great thread guys, just spent 2+ hours reading all of it 

Here's my story:

I recently started to have a problem where my OBD2 VR6 Auto did not want to move in reverse, it seemed to engage fine but no bite it just revved.

This problem was worse when the engine was cold and improved a bit when the operating temp was reached.

This started suddenly after a head gasket change at a workshop.

I took it back to complain, they changed the ATF fluid, but the same fault persisted.


I'm not sure if they even checked the codes, somehow I doubt it, either that or they ignored them.

Cut to today (last week now!) and I managed to get the fault codes read and this is interesting:


Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 01M-927-733.lbl
Part No: 01M 927 733 CT
Component: AG4 Getriebe 01M 3363
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 041F9A23DE1BEF123B48FA5-0960

10 Faults Found:
00258 - Solenoid Valve 1 (N88)
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground
00260 - Solenoid Valve 2 (N89)
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground
00262 - Solenoid Valve 3 (N90)
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground
00264 - Solenoid Valve 4 (N91)
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground
00266 - Solenoid Valve 5 (N92)
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground
00270 - Solenoid Valve 7 (N94)
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground
00268 - Solenoid Valve 6 (N93)
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground
00518 - Throttle Position Sensor (G69)
16-10 - Signal Outside Specifications - Intermittent
00652 - Gear Monitoring
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
00300 - Transmission Fluid Temp. Sensor (G93)
34-00 - No Elaboration Available

OK.

Clearly not good! 

After some internet sleuthing I checked the Transmittion Control Module connector (the TCM is under the passenger side rear seat) which was connected but the connector lock was in the open not the locked position...D'oh!

I've no idea which of the recent garages that had been anywhere near my car over the last few years had touched this but yeah, not helpful!

Anyway after a code clear and retest I got rid of:

00518 - Throttle Position Sensor (G69)
16-10 - Signal Outside Specifications - Intermittent
00652 - Gear Monitoring
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
00300 - Transmission Fluid Temp. Sensor (G93)
34-00 - No Elaboration Available

Nice!

However I am still left with:

00258 - Solenoid Valve 1 (N88)
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground
00260 - Solenoid Valve 2 (N89)
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground
00262 - Solenoid Valve 3 (N90)
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground
00264 - Solenoid Valve 4 (N91)
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground
00266 - Solenoid Valve 5 (N92)
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground
00270 - Solenoid Valve 7 (N94)
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground
00268 - Solenoid Valve 6 (N93)
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground

...so not just one solenoid fault but all of them!

So, place your bets, folks... will an animal have chewed through the harness, has some half asleep mechanic not reconnected the solenoid harness plug, has the TCU partially burned out or is the harness borked... hopefully I will find out soon!

Cheers.


----------



## WillyNev (Nov 26, 2020)

Im new here. I'm a guy that won't do the manual swap till this tip tronic is done. Thank you for this detailed write up. I get the p2637 code and it had codes for 2nd and 3rd. My mom let my little brother use car and he ****ed it up. He also ****ed the aux water pump and line running to tranny. Tranny throws code once car is hot so im hoping after aux water pump and hose fix I may be ok but after reading this sounds like its overheated the electronics. Thank you for taking the time to write this up.


----------



## Vital_Idol (Mar 7, 2013)

First off, thank you for all the information in this DIY.
I'm still trying to confirm that my transmission is an 01m and which code it is to ensure I order the correct harness. I've also seen multiple comments regarding testing the solenoids to confirm they're bad prior to just replacing them. I cannot seem to find information on testing them. My car is throwing a code for the TCC solenoid being open, and when I test the resistance from the TCU harness, it is within spec.
My first thought was, if I can confirm it is an 01m and then get the code and order the correct harness, why wouldn't i just replace all the accessible solenoids while in there. Is that a terrible plan?
This chart did not help me. I have an 04, 2.0 4 speed automatic. Going by this its possible to have 2 different transmissions.










Any tips on confirming the transmission / code and pointing in the right direction on testing the solenoids would be appreciated.
Also the site multiple posts link to for transmission parts , www.makcotransmissionparts.com , appears to have closed up shop.
Any other reliable options for getting parts that someone can recommend?

Thanks again


----------

