# Reviving a TT



## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Hey Guys, I just picked up a 2002 TT ALMS that has been sitting for 6+ years. It has 97K on the clock. It was parked due to needing a fuel pump, turbo, etc. The guy I bought if from bought it from the original owner, but never titled it. It seems she sold it to him because of the mentioned problems, and he took it to a local mechanic that maybe didn't understand the complexity of modern vehicles. The car was never fixed and sat in storage.

After digging into it, I've found that rats have partially eaten through some of the wires in the engine compartment. is it ok to cut the wires and solder new sections in, or do they need to be completely replaced? any tips? if replaceable, can wire from advance auto be used or does it need to be special?

Is it possible to get good compression test values without warming it up (since it doesn't run). Keep in mind that it has been sitting for 6+ years. I would like to have a little assurance that there are no internal issues before going too deep in the pocket with the engine. 

The previous owner's mechanic also welded a straight pipe in where the catalytic converter was. He included a catalytic converter that a friend picked up at a speed shop later. Do you think it's best to replace the pipe with the catalytic converter? would the pipe have caused any issues that I need to be concerned about? To replace it I'll need a new downpipe since they cut the flange off of the stock one. Anyone have one laying around that you'd like to get rid of?

thanks!


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## mdjenkins (Feb 16, 2010)

I would be surprised if no one had a stock exhaust lying around. Where are you located at? I'm sure I could figure out shipping, but I'd rather not.

For patching the harness, my main concern is all the sensors that the computer measures voltage on. You introduce additional resistance from patches, which changes voltage and you're going to have a bad time. There's a chance that's a non-issue for the wires you want to patch. Which wires are you thinking about patching?

You should be able to get usable values off a compression test on a cold motor. From my understanding, you're checking how much pressure is getting past the rings to determine if they need to be replaced. Metal expands when it gets hot, so I would think compression would also go up. The question is by how much, and I don't think it's enough to affect a compression test by much. I am not an expert mechanic though.


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

thanks,
I'm in Gainesville, FL (32607). The main wire is one under where the battery tray sits. I haven't ID'd it yet, but just got a copy of Bently's. I think it may be one of the power lines, and not a sensor line.


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## bwdz (Jan 21, 2015)

Let's start at the beginning, number 1 did you title the car in your name or just hanging onto the title like last guy? I say that because I know someone with a horror story of waiting to title a car till the car was fixed only to find a problem and later lose the car. Title it immediately before touching it if you haven't already done so.
Number 2, how good are you mechanically? First thing to check before even cranking it over would be the timing belt, remove the inspection cover and have a look at it visually. It's probably dry rotted but if it looks intact and not too brittle then you can proceed with cranking it over for a compression test if it looks real bad stop right there and throw on the $30 belt, you'll have to do this again with a fresh water pump and tensioner once you get it running but for now the belt should do. Pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it. I personally would pull the plugs out first and pour a dab of Marvel's mystery oil in each cylinder and let it seep past the rings over night. It will lubricate the dry rings and cylinder walls so you don't cause any damage and give you a slightly more accurate reading on the compression test letting the cross hatching have a little oil in it to seal the rings. Number 3, if it won't crank because of wire damage replace the wires don't splice. One way to find factory wires is to go on car-part.com, you won't be able to search for just a wire on there but if you punch in let's say a door or hatch for your car it will list the local junkyards that have that part, if they have the door or a hatch call them and see if they still have the rest of the car there and if they'll sell you some little parts off of it. Let us know how this goes and we'll walk you through the rest based on your findings.


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## Ame46mkI (May 5, 2008)

I am very curious as to how this turns out and as to how much you paid for it! ALMS are very cool!!


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Thanks for the advice! I hope to get the title application taken care of this week. It was titled in GA, so I have to have someone verify the mileage, which is hard to do since it's not driveable. I saw a deputy at my daughter's school, so am planning to see if he can drop by to verify the VIN and mileage on the form. Otherwise, I'll need to find a notary. I did as you suggested. Timing belt looks good (but will still replace). I injected about 10 mLs of oil into each cylinder and let soak overnight. After buying a battery, turned it over and checked the compression. It was 190 a=on cylinders 1, 2, and 4; and 210 on cylinder 3. Does that seem reasonable?


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Hopefully not too much - 2.5k


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## bwdz (Jan 21, 2015)

Those are excellent compression numbers, if I remember correctly the service limit is something like 125 psi on our cars so around 200 is a very fresh motor. 
Get that title done before you sink any money in it, I really have a couple of stories from people I know that did not turn out well over cars that sat around a while, hint sometimes when you apply for the paperwork the old and last registered owner gets a notice and realizes they could get the car back that they sold years ago but was never transferred.
Now to the car. Compression is good, timing belt looks decent enough to start it, try starting it. Forget everything the previous owner told you, even if he was honest he was obviously not much of a mechanic so his guesses are just that, guesses that might lead you to believe something that is not true. See if you have spark, see if you get fuel and go from there.


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## Ame46mkI (May 5, 2008)

Fipronil said:


> Hopefully not too much - 2.5k


If you can get it going for a reasonable amount of money then I would say it's totally worth it!


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

update: I got the title transferred, so can now really dig in. I'm in the process of removing the engine to get to the turbo and replace the downpipe that the previous owner butchered. I removed all of the wiring harness (man there's a lot of sensors!) from the engine except for the oil level sensor on the oil pan. It seems to be sandwiched underneath a metal plate. What's the best way to remove this one?


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## bwdz (Jan 21, 2015)

No need to remove the engine, you can replace the downpipe by just lowering the subframe a little. Many of us have the 3 inch catless pipe from Ebay, it's not bad, I had a minor fitment issue by a few millimeters where it touched the driveshaft coupling but it seems most don't have that problem. Buy the factory turbo gasket and don't use the one that comes with the pipe, it's much better and you won't have to go back in there when it blows out.


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Thanks for the advice. So the previous owner said that the turbo was blowing oil and I believe it because oil is in the intake. I looked into the spark plug holes and there appears to be a lot of carbon on the tops of the pistons. Do you think I need to pull the head and clean the carbon deposits? It's such a b---- to get in there, I woul dlike to take care of everything possible before putting it back together. Thanks


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## hunTTsvegas (Aug 27, 2012)

There are a few different methods to carbon build up removal. The 2.0t guys are pros at it and probably have quite a few different methods. I've utilized the seafoam method before and it works pretty well when performed frequently. It's ultimately a patch for a larger problem though. Oil in the intake tract could be resultant of quite a few different things. Easiest to check the PCV system/check valves/etc first before tearing straight into the turbo.


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## bwdz (Jan 21, 2015)

There is always carbon buildup on all engines after a while. The old school way I used to clean it was with water and transmission oil mix. Essentially pull off a small vacuum hose and have a Styrofoam cup of water and one of trans fluid. Start the engine, let it warm up, now while pinching the hose let it suck in tiny amounts of water and trans fluid, alternate between the two. You will see vapor coming out of the tailpipe but it will clean out your engine nicely, kind of like a steam bath in there. Don't let it suck in too much as you could potentially hydrolock but it is not that hard to just dip in small amounts to get the vapor in there. The turbo may not be shot, while you have the downpipe off you can look at it a bit, remove the TIP and look in that way also, wiggle the shaft and see if there is a lot of play. If the intercooler hoses are badly coated with oil you may want to pull them off as well as the intercoolers and clean them out, run it for a while and see if they get nasty again. No need to rush to dump money on it till it really needs it and by that time you will wish for more power and get an upgraded turbo anyway.


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

What type of transmission fluid do you use? dextron3? or will any kind work?


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## bwdz (Jan 21, 2015)

Whichever one is the cheapest, you only need a few ounces. Have you started this engine?


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

No, not yet. Need to replace fuel pump, fuel lines, patch some wires, and replace some of the smaller vacuum lines. Looks like they were either slashed or eaten by a rodent. took the front off to get a better look since there's not much room from the top and bottom.


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## hunTTsvegas (Aug 27, 2012)

Fipronil said:


> What type of transmission fluid do you use? dextron3? or will any kind work?


Audi trans oil isn't too bad costs wise. I ended up going with some Redline MT-90 and saved some money while also getting a good product but it's mainly personal preference. Just make sure it conforms to Audi specifications, for best results.



Fipronil said:


> No, not yet. Need to replace fuel pump, fuel lines, patch some wires, and replace some of the smaller vacuum lines. Looks like they were either slashed or eaten by a rodent. took the front off to get a better look since there's not much room from the top and bottom.


Ouch. I always told myself if I had to ever replace the fuel lines I'd probably bend my own after pricing them from the dealer. Yowza they're expensive. Of course, I just looked and ecs has the set on sale for $173.64 from the filter to the engine bay. Do you have plans past a stock/factory car? If so, might want to look at a better flowing pump now since you'll be in there. Same with vac lines, especially if they're brittle plastic.


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## bwdz (Jan 21, 2015)

hunTTsvegas said:


> Audi trans oil isn't too bad costs wise. I ended up going with some Redline MT-90 and saved some money while also getting a good product but it's mainly personal preference. Just make sure it conforms to Audi specifications, for best results.
> 
> 
> 
> Ouch. I always told myself if I had to ever replace the fuel lines I'd probably bend my own after pricing them from the dealer. Yowza they're expensive. Of course, I just looked and ecs has the set on sale for $173.64 from the filter to the engine bay. Do you have plans past a stock/factory car? If so, might want to look at a better flowing pump now since you'll be in there. Same with vac lines, especially if they're brittle plastic.


The trans fluid is for cleaning the engine internals by sucking it into a vacuum line, not for the trans itself so that's why I said cheapest. 

How do you know the fuel pump is bad, do you get power to it?


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Thanks for the advice. The fuel pump was missing. I think they took it out because it stopped running, then saw how much replacements cost. Man some of the parts are expensive!


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Right now I'd just like to get it back on the road. I've been driving a Prius for the last few years, so am pretty sure power will be fine for a while. I think the metal lines are ok, but the ones in the tank were brittle and broke. There was also what seemed like a very fine wire in the back part of the tank where you can reach. Any idea what it might be? It looked like a pine needle. When I grabbed it, it broke. I can't find anything like it in the Bentley manual. Maybe just something that fell in during production?


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## bwdz (Jan 21, 2015)

CarID has it for like $120.


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Got the look at the turbo yesterday and it's definitely toast. You can bounce the turbine up and down, and back and forth. The question now, is it possible to have it rebuilt. I was hoping to get out with a $400 rebuild job. Do you all have any experience with aftermarket turbos and their reliability?


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## hunTTsvegas (Aug 27, 2012)

Definitely can be rebuilt. I think I recall folks using G Pop Shop or other sources. Hybrids are also an option. I had bought a GTS kit and found out that the hybrid in that comes from CX Racing with a billet wheel. Has an EGT port that may need to be plugged (depending on whether you're narrowband or wideband). Only have about 20 miles on it but so fsr, she loves to spool. 

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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

No experience with aftermarket turbos, but I rebuilt my k04 a few years ago with a kit from Gpopshop.com and it still boosts like a champ.


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## bwdz (Jan 21, 2015)

Used turbos around me are $250 for K04 and $25-100 for a K03 on Craigslist. These are all usable with little shaft play and no leaks. They pop up often. I would go the cheap route just to run it for a bit and then worry about rebuild on the original turbo.


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## bwdz (Jan 21, 2015)

http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/pts/5807804350.html


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Finally got the turbo out. The shaft is broken in half! I see that NAPA sells Rotomaster turbos. They usually sell good quality products. Does anyone have any experience with them? They're about 1/2 the cost of a new K04. I hate to spend too much on a car that I'm not sure will run.


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## bwdz (Jan 21, 2015)

Here is one near you, he wants 950 for a complete motor but maybe he'll sell you turbo separate, he seems to have other parts, maybe has other things you need, make a list and hit him up.
http://orlando.craigslist.org/pts/5780500935.html
This guy seems to have a million VW parts, maybe he has one
http://orlando.craigslist.org/pts/5839270282.html
I would just buy a good used one for now and see how that motor runs.


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Thanks for your advice. Haven't had much luck. I saw a used one on ebay with 114k miles (not exact model). About how long does a turbo last before needing a rebuild if the oil is changed regularly?


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## hunTTsvegas (Aug 27, 2012)

Let me check the one I took out of my AMU when I get home tomorrow afternoon. Car had 125k on it when I took the engine/turbo out. If it's worth a darn, you can have it. Just pay shipping. 

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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Great, Thanks! I also sent emails to the two craigslist adds. the part number on the one that came out is 06A 145 704P if that helps.


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Does anyone know the difference between turbos with part numbers of 06A145704P and 06A145704M? Are they interchangeable?


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## mdjenkins (Feb 16, 2010)

The letters following the number are typically revision numbers.
They should be interchangeable.


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## tucsonTT (Sep 11, 2016)

Hey Fipronil.....when you get a chance post some pics. I have been following this thread and would like to see some of the stuff you are doing.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

I have a working fuel pump if you need one. I pulled it from my 225TT last year when I parted it out. I am also located about 1.5 hours south of you in Lakeland, FL. I would like to see what kind of progress you are making on this build.


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Hey, Thanks for the offer of the fuel pump. Unfortunately that was the first thing I bought before looking over the car in detail (thinking it might be simple). I'm still not sure of the difference between the M and P turbos. The P is for cars with electronic stability control, and the Ms are for those without. Audi parts dealer wasn't very helpful. The one in the CL ad above is in very nice condition, but is an M. I did find a used P with 54K miles on it in MN for $400. Almost have all of the parts needed to start refurbishing it. I was amazed that you can remove the entire engine and trans without spending much time under the car! Only had to disconnect exhaust, axles, and haldex drive shaft from down under.


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Would love to post photos, but not sure how. The insert photos option asks for a URL. Not sure where the photos need to be placed to be able to attach them. I should mention that I had to take the engine out to clean it up. there were thousands of seed and weeds in the nooks and crannies that were completely inaccessible with it in, and a real fire hazard. It also made getting the downpipe out and new one in a lot easier.


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## hunTTsvegas (Aug 27, 2012)

You can use a hosting site such as photobucket or use your phone with tapatalk app. 

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## bwdz (Jan 21, 2015)

Get the one on CL near you or the cheaper of the two, there will be no noticeable difference in the turbo M or P. It would probably take some scientific instruments to find a measurable difference in the two.


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## hunTTsvegas (Aug 27, 2012)

I failed to look at mine as well. It'll be a short work day and I've put a sticky note on my phone to remind me. 

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## hunTTsvegas (Aug 27, 2012)

You're more than welcome to this one however it has a small amount of shaft play as you can probably deduce from wheel area and it's an M however it came off of a car with ESP.

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## bwdz (Jan 21, 2015)

I just want to add that this TT community is really something great. So many of you guys offer great and knowledgeable help and to see everyone offering up parts to someone they have never met really just says something about the enthusiasm we all have for cars. I have personally never met any of you but have purchased parts from a couple of the board members and have certainly been the recipient of great advice. The reason this stands out even more is because I have a Porsche and those boards are full of people who never touch their car and only recommend independent shops to take them to (nothing terrible about that but a true enthusiast turns their own wrenches) So thanks to all who participate in our problem solving and parts chasing.


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Hey HunTTsvegas, thanks so much for the offer! Seems like I'm always a dime short and a day late! I went ahead and bought the used "P" one from a recycler earlier this week. Supposedly it only has 53k miles and is in good condition. We'll see. Thanks again! 

On another note, got a few minutes to clean the engine up a little last night and noticed a black, rectangular component on the valve cover close to the coils. It seems like it should have been connected to the wiring harness (can feel wire strands in one spot). What is this part? Am I screwed because it is disconnected, or can a new one be spliced in? Thanks!


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

Good work getting this car up to snuff! Keep it up.

I believe that's a capacitor.
It will not affect the running of your car...it does connect to he harness FYI


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## mdjenkins (Feb 16, 2010)

If that is what I think it is, I can say mine broke off shortly after I first got my TT years ago. What I did was cap off the exposed brown wire on the harness and drove the car. Approx 100k miles later, I got around to replacing the harness while doing a low end refresh and tranny rebuild.

I think it has something to do with feedback resistance for the AM band on the radio. If you find a better explination, please do share.


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Thanks for the good news- haven't listened to am radio in a very long time. Hoping to replace timing belt and water pump this weekend. Here's a few pics











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## bwdz (Jan 21, 2015)

If the old turbo blew, take apart the intercoolers and all hoses and clean them out of any shrapnel and oil buildup while everything is apart.


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## mdjenkins (Feb 16, 2010)

I paid $350 to have mine rebuilt about 50k ago. Mine was still good when I had it rebuilt, just barely showing any signs of wear.
If the hot side doesn't have any hair cracks, you should be good to go.


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Great, thanks. What do you all recommend for cleaning the oil out of the intercooler lines and oil feed/return lines for the turbo? Not sure if solvents will hurt the integrity of the rubber.


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Hey guys, Finally got a chance to change the water pump, timing belt, thermostat, and tensioners. Took a closer look at the vacuum hoses and noticed that a couple of them are cracked/torn. One is the cloth-wrapped one that goes from the bottom of the intake manifold. Is it ok to replace them all with vacuum hose from the local auto parts store. I bought some Autocraft brand, but haven't started installing. I really don't want to do it again for a while. Also, what about the hose clamps? the originals are permanently pinch clamped. Would it be ok to use the clip clamps (squeeze open with pliers) instead?


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## bwdz (Jan 21, 2015)

Do a search on here but there are a few picture tutorials on how to get rid of a large chunk of the vacuum line maze.


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Is there anything special about the piece that connects the pcv valve to the intake hose? Can I just use a hose barb with clamp from local store. Looks like previous owner used a plumbing elbow. It fell out when removed the hose! Must have leaked pretty bad as has a lot of sealant caked on.


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Fipronil said:


> Is there anything special about the piece that connects the pcv valve to the intake hose? Can I just use a hose barb with clamp from local store. Looks like previous owner used a plumbing elbow. It fell out when removed the hose! Must have leaked pretty bad as has a lot of sealant caked on.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk






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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Fipronil said:


> Is there anything special about the piece that connects the pcv valve to the intake hose? Can I just use a hose barb with clamp from local store. Looks like previous owner used a plumbing elbow. It fell out when removed the hose! Must have leaked pretty bad as has a lot of sealant caked on.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk










. Here's a photo



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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Hey guys, I'm getting close to putting the engine back in, but have a question about the turbo to manifold bolts. Do I really need to spend $45 for the 3 bolts, or can just use high grade ones with thick washers from pep boys? Here's a pic Of one.










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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

Get the right bolts. That's not an item you want to skimp on.

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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

You should be able to find the bolts for a lot cheaper than that online. Check ECS tuning


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

Fipronil said:


> Hey guys, I'm getting close to putting the engine back in, but have a question about the turbo to manifold bolts. Do I really need to spend $45 for the 3 bolts, or can just use high grade ones with thick washers from pep boys? Here's a pic Of one.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I would really consider getting the right spacers as well. They are $30 a piece but I'm sure there is a reason for that instead of a $1 hardware store washer. They see so much heat that it's not worth it in my opinion to skimp out there. Originals lasted 15 years for me.. so seems like a good investment instead of getting one that will expand and weaken or break the turbo to manifold stud.


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Hey guys, great news. Got the engine in and it runs! Ended up having to buy the auxiliary fuel pump. Turns out Thea pine needles in the tank were the wires. Broke in half with flick of finger. Got a question. Above 1500 rpm it runs smooth, like a sewing machine. However , below 1500 rpm the engine slows down every 3 seconds or so, then increases to where should be. I haven't gotten a rosstech cable yet. Any ideas on what could be causing it? Also, when I turn the engine off, there seems to be a swoosh in the engine bay. Is that normal? Thanks!










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## bwdz (Jan 21, 2015)

Sounds like a vacuum or air leak in the intake or intercooler plumbing.


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Hey beds, I think you were right. Found the connector under the intake manifold was cracked in the angle, and the tee connector for the breather hose had turned gooey. Ordered replacements, so hopefully will be able to see if this is the fix next weekend! Thanks for the insight!


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Should have been bwdz not beds- I hate auto correct!


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Hey again, finally got the replacement emission hoses. Can someone tell me what plugs into the top of the tee fitting attached to the 90 degree elbow coming out of the engine? I took it apart a few weeks ago and can't remember for the life of me! 


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

Fipronil said:


> Hey again, finally got the replacement emission hoses. Can someone tell me what plugs into the top of the tee fitting attached to the 90 degree elbow coming out of the engine? I took it apart a few weeks ago and can't remember for the life of me!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Here's the pic I used for mine. Hope it helps










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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Thanks, that's exactly what I needed!


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Hey, got it running and went out for few drives. The power is amazing compared to a Prius. One problem that I have is smoking. At idle there is a steady stream of smoke out of the exhaust. No codes on the rosstech scanner. I'm thinking the fuel injectors need to be cleaned-maybe one stuck open. Any ideas?


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

Fipronil said:


> Hey, got it running and went out for few drives. The power is amazing compared to a Prius. One problem that I have is smoking. At idle there is a steady stream of smoke out of the exhaust. No codes on the rosstech scanner. I'm thinking the fuel injectors need to be cleaned-maybe one stuck open. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sounds more like some oil in the exhaust.. stuck injector would make the car run poorly and would throw a code soon enough for running rich.


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

That was what I thought at first, but there's no oil in the intake tube coming out of the turbo. The smoke smells like gun powder, leading me to believe it's unburned fuel. I smelled the same scent with a Fiero that had a stuck injector. 


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Hey guys, well it wasn't the injectors. They were in pretty good shape. I also replaced the pcv valve and the pancake valve. It doesn't smoke when cold or on startup leading me to believe it is not the valve seals. It smokes when it is hot and is much worse when I step on the gas, but has great power. Smoke is gray. I also noticed that when I remove the oil filler cap, there is a good bit of gases that blow out. Is that normal or should there be vacuum? Any ideas? I'm beginning to think it is the turbo. What else should I check before? Thanks


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Hey guys, I read somewhere on this forum that you figure how much it'll cost to fix a tt, then double that to get the right figure. Beginning to believe it. Clutch slave cylinder went out, so pulled the engine again. While out, checked the turbo and seems like my smoking problem may have been from worn thrust bearing. Also while out, I noticed that the trans-side of the engine block is oily. Is it possible for the head gasket to leak oil? Compression is good on all cylinders. Not sure if I should go ahead and take the head off or not. Any ideas? Thanks










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## bwdz (Jan 21, 2015)

So recently I had a similar problem with the smoke. Look at my thread that is title "smoking like crazy". The short end of it my problem was the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator. It was cracked right at the nipple on the bottom of the manifold. It caused a slight air leak but I had no funny idle but the FPR did not get vacuum so it would load up at idle but run really fine when wide open because at wide open there is no vacuum to it anyway. I used a smoke machine to chase around. I actually shot the smoke into my dipstick tube to check over the PCV system and nothing leaked, it flowed right through back into the air intake tube. I had no residue in the PCV lines either so it appears to be functioning correctly. See if you can get your hands on one of the smoke machines, there are some youtube vids on how to make your own. It will help tremendously in chasing down leaks as the smoke is bound to show up.


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## mdjenkins (Feb 16, 2010)

The oil/moisture marks on the head matches up with the oil marks below the head.
That makes me think valve cover gasket.


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

mdjenkins said:


> The oil/moisture marks on the head matches up with the oil marks below the head.
> That makes me think valve cover gasket.


Thanks. Upon closer look, it definitely looks like it may be coming from the half-moons and wrapping around the block via the head gasket. What throws me off is that there's no oil on head above lower part of manifold. Bwdz, glad you got your smoking sorted out. I'll check it out before putting engine back in. I'm getting pretty good at it now....


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## mdjenkins (Feb 16, 2010)

Another thing I just noticed in that picture are missing crush washers on some of the bolts securing the exhaust manifold.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Fipronil said:


> Hey guys, I'm getting close to putting the engine back in, but have a question about the turbo to manifold bolts. Do I really need to spend $45 for the 3 bolts, or can just use high grade ones with thick washers from pep boys? Here's a pic Of one.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I strongly suggest the OEM or some ARP bolts for the turbo. Using other ones with an internal hex will make someones life hell later down the road when it does strip out. 12pt ARP ones are really the way to go IMO. 

The oil leak almost looks like a leaking valve cover gasket from the PCV system seeing pressure and pumping oil out the back, this is the same thing that happened on my newest one from the PO not using the correct check valves to ensure actual vacuum on the crankcase.


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Hey guys, I have another question. I just installed a Sachs clutch and slave cylinder. The kit came with another bearing shaped like a cap. Where does this one go?


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

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## bwdz (Jan 21, 2015)

Looks like a pilot bearing


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

bwdz said:


> Looks like a pilot bearing


Where would I find it on the transmission? I didn't see anything like it around the slave cylinder. 


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## bwdz (Jan 21, 2015)

A pilot bearing goes in the crank and not the transmission. If you look at the input shaft of the transmission where it tapers to go into the crank, that's where it goes. At least that is what that bearing looks like to me. Some cars just use a bushing. It is often not super easy to get that out, there are little narrow pullers that have little jaws that go inside that bearing to pull it out.


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## racin2redline (Sep 25, 2008)

Can guarantee those turbo manifold bolts will back out ,get oem ones 


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## racin2redline (Sep 25, 2008)

Fipronil said:


> Hey guys, I'm getting close to putting the engine back in, but have a question about the turbo to manifold bolts. Do I really need to spend $45 for the 3 bolts, or can just use high grade ones with thick washers from pep boys? Here's a pic Of one.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


No good . Been there done that. Get oem 


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Thanks, I left it out and put the engine back together. Got everything back in the car yesterday, just need to get the haldex drive shaft hooked up as well as the radiator and all of the other hoses and electrical. Racin2redline, I think you're right. I did get the oem bolts this time. I think the uneven idle and rich condition may have been from an exhaust leak at the manifold. I saw some evidence of one. We'll see soon!


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Hey guys, finally got the engine back in. Took it for a test drive and seem to not have a lot of boost like before. I hooked up vag com and checked block 115 while driving. The command pressure stayed at 1000 while pressure at the intercooler would increase with throttle. Any idea what could cause this? The resistance on the n75 is 30.1 and on the n249 is 31.3 (out of spec). Could the n249 cause command pressure to not change? Thanks










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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Hmm, have you pressure tested the system?


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## Fipronil (Sep 27, 2016)

Hey, I pressure tested it this weekend and found a small leak at the intercooler. Fixed that, but still get the same faults. Beginning to suspect the n75. Ordered one from rock auto, so should find out soon


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