# Question about twin spiral cell BATTERIES in 2007 EOS V6



## kratedisease (Aug 15, 2010)

My 2007 Vw EOS uses twin ( double in seris) 6 volt spiral cell optima batteries stock from from the OEM factory. All V6 EOS received these batteries from the factory stock. ( the turbo 4 cylinder uses a convernional single 12 volt battery) 
I need new batteries But at the dealer they are $500 just for the twin 6 volt batteries , not including install ( about one hour of time) I found out that optima the manufacturer sells the optima 6 volt twin batteries for about $300 at any auto parts store and even summit racing sells them new, BUT they are the red top and the dealer battery is a yellow top. Optima ONLY sells the yellow top in 6 volt to VW directly and does NOT and will NOT supply the aftermarket with 6 volt yellow tops. MY QUESTION IS.... has anyone with the V6 EOS used the RED top optima instead of the dealer yellow top optima ? any issues ? I called optima and they said that the yellow top maintaines a more steady operating voltage which the VW computer may need to aviod error codes for lower or unsteady voltage that may occur with a red top. 

ANY input from senior technical people on this. ?? I want to save some cash and put the red tops in myself.. I can be reached directly at [email protected]


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## BostonB6 (Nov 16, 2005)

As I understand it yellow tops are a deep cycle battery which is recommended for cars with heavier electrical demands, such as a power roof. The VR6 has limited space under the hood so they mounted the battery in the trunk. 

That said, I believe that the non-VR6 EOS uses a standard battery, so I don't believe that you'll have any problem with the red tops. I would limit the opening & closing of the roof without the car running.


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## mark_d_drake (Aug 17, 2006)

408 at 1stVWParts


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## deltaP (Jul 26, 2011)

Red Top 6v batteries $150 ea

http://www.jegs.com/p/Optima-Batteries/Optima-RedTop-Batteries/747399/10002/-1:laugh:


$132

http://www.amazon.com/Optima-Batter...&newCar=1&s=automotive&vehicleType=automotive


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## gerryc (Oct 14, 2012)

kratedisease said:


> My 2007 Vw EOS uses twin ( double in seris) 6 volt spiral cell optima batteries stock from from the OEM factory. All V6 EOS received these batteries from the factory stock. ( the turbo 4 cylinder uses a convernional single 12 volt battery)
> I need new batteries But at the dealer they are $500 just for the twin 6 volt batteries , not including install ( about one hour of time) I found out that optima the manufacturer sells the optima 6 volt twin batteries for about $300 at any auto parts store and even summit racing sells them new, BUT they are the red top and the dealer battery is a yellow top. Optima ONLY sells the yellow top in 6 volt to VW directly and does NOT and will NOT supply the aftermarket with 6 volt yellow tops. MY QUESTION IS.... has anyone with the V6 EOS used the RED top optima instead of the dealer yellow top optima ? any issues ? I called optima and they said that the yellow top maintaines a more steady operating voltage which the VW computer may need to aviod error codes for lower or unsteady voltage that may occur with a red top.
> 
> ANY input from senior technical people on this. ?? I want to save some cash and put the red tops in myself.. I can be reached directly at [email protected]


I have a 2007 3.2 as well, built in fall of 2006. 6 years old and failing. I left the hi end audio on for 40 minutes and almost did not get started. I had the dealer test the battery ($40.) and was told the battery was on last legs (only 62 Amps).

So, I went shopping. I ended up talking to "Optima" who make the 6v yellow tops exclusively for VW. 1stvolkswagen parts have them, and I ordered one, but had the order cancelled because batteries have acid and are therefore Hazmat and cannot be shipped. I don't understand this because you can buy them at Amazon....and they ship.

I ended up buying at my VW dealership ($460). I considered the Red Tops but they are not "deep cycle"ans nixed the idea. Now, the install. I have changed batteries in many, many vehicles, but this one is no fun. I was told by VW that you can't just remove the old battery. You will loose all "the codes" and your can might not start. If so, you get your Eos towed to the dealership ($50-100) and pay $50 to get reprogrammed.

So, why not add a temporary battery the the connectors under the hood supplying 12v to keep the electronics alive while changing the 2-6 volters. I was warned not to do this because these front terminals DO NOT supply current to all vehicle electronics.

My solution not yet executed is to install a temporary 12v battery to the cables in the trunk and then remove/install the 6volters.

Now, I am NOT a senior tech person but above is my learned opinion and I am going to do it myself.
I wonder what the Bentleys service CD says about this.

...... Chili


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## kratedisease (Aug 15, 2010)

*Your "dead" battery may come back to life...*

I also did a lot of research and found that a desulfator battery charger made by optimate can bring the spiral cell AGM batteris back to life. This charger is specifically designed to recondition old or "dead" sulfated spiral cell batteries. The model you need is "Optimate 6" that is designed for spiral cell optima batteries. The optimate 6 charger can desulfate a old weak spiral cell battery back to new condition. I bought one and that is why I posted my question on how to remove the battery because I need to connect the optimate 6 to the batteries directly to recondition/desulfate them. I need to pop open the covers in the trunk but I do not know how to acess them. Once I do I am hooking up the charger so that I can desulfate the batteries. let me know if you know how to take the covers off in the trunk. I read that to charge/recondition the battery it is better to connect directly to battery terminals and not to use the jump start points in the engine bay. Let me know if you know how to take the covers off to acess the batteries. I will connect the cable supplied with my optimate 6 charger attached to the battery terminals permantly and just leave the cable attached since they have a female connector plug on the cable where i can periodically plug in the male charger cable from the charger if the battery gets weak and needs to be desulfated/recharged again. Let me know.. my direct email is [email protected]


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## kratedisease (Aug 15, 2010)

*you may be able to desulfate/recondition your batteries*

I also did a lot of research and found that a desulfator battery charger made by optimate can bring the spiral cell AGM batteris back to life. This charger is specifically designed to recondition old or "dead" sulfated spiral cell batteries. The model you need is "Optimate 6" that is designed for spiral cell optima batteries. The optimate 6 charger can desulfate a old weak spiral cell battery back to new condition. I bought one and that is why I posted my question on how to remove the battery because I need to connect the optimate 6 to the batteries directly to recondition/desulfate them. I need to pop open the covers in the trunk but I do not know how to acess them. Once I do I am hooking up the charger so that I can desulfate the batteries. let me know if you know how to take the covers off in the trunk. I read that to charge/recondition the battery it is better to connect directly to battery terminals and not to use the jump start points in the engine bay. Let me know if you know how to take the covers off to acess the batteries. I will connect the cable supplied with my optimate 6 charger attached to the battery terminals permantly and just leave the cable attached since they have a female connector plug on the cable where i can periodically plug in the male charger cable from the charger if the battery gets weak and needs to be desulfated/recharged again. Let me know.. my direct email is [email protected]


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## gerryc (Oct 14, 2012)

kratedisease said:


> I also did a lot of research and found that a desulfator battery charger made by optimate can bring the spiral cell AGM batteris back to life. This charger is specifically designed to recondition old or "dead" sulfated spiral cell batteries. The model you need is "Optimate 6" that is designed for spiral cell optima batteries. The optimate 6 charger can desulfate a old weak spiral cell battery back to new condition. I bought one and that is why I posted my question on how to remove the battery because I need to connect the optimate 6 to the batteries directly to recondition/desulfate them. I need to pop open the covers in the trunk but I do not know how to acess them. Once I do I am hooking up the charger so that I can desulfate the batteries. let me know if you know how to take the covers off in the trunk. I read that to charge/recondition the battery it is better to connect directly to battery terminals and not to use the jump start points in the engine bay. Let me know if you know how to take the covers off to acess the batteries. I will connect the cable supplied with my optimate 6 charger attached to the battery terminals permantly and just leave the cable attached since they have a female connector plug on the cable where i can periodically plug in the male charger cable from the charger if the battery gets weak and needs to be desulfated/recharged again. Let me know.. my direct email is [email protected]


 Good work Tiger.....But I'll not be reconditiioning.I have bought the new yellowtops....and did the install today. 2 hours, not simple, but dooable. And thanks to my dealer who are full of bunk. Why? I did loose 12v to the car and all I lost was correct Time of day and trip KMs. No car problems, no tow job, Car runs perfect.

Now, for your problem, here is the fix. The 2 batteries in the trunk are behind 2 covers that are retained by clips, one in each cover on the ends and hard to see unless you are looking for them.
you have to pry out the centre 'push in plug' and the cover then comes off easily.

here is a pic of the clip.







(not linked)
OK...how do you attach an image???
Pic emailed to you
good luck with the reconditioning.

..... Gerry


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## just-jean (Sep 14, 2006)

I just changed my single 2.0T battery after 6 years and it started right up including the radio. I did have to relearn the pinch protection for the windows to fully go up.

The traction control light came on and one that looked like a steering wheel..... I was heading over my brothers to steal his vagcom cable to look at/clear the codes, and they went off as soon as I shifted. Don't be afraid to DIY!!


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## gerryc (Oct 14, 2012)

gerryc said:


> Good work Tiger.....But I'll not be reconditiioning.I have bought the new yellowtops....and did the install today. 2 hours, not simple, but dooable. And thanks to my dealer who are full of bunk. Why? I did loose 12v to the car and all I lost was correct Time of day and trip KMs. No car problems, no tow job, Car runs perfect.
> 
> Now, for your problem, here is the fix. The 2 batteries in the trunk are behind 2 covers that are retained by clips, one in each cover on the ends and hard to see unless you are looking for them.
> you have to pry out the centre 'push in plug' and the cover then comes off easily.
> ...


Here is the Pic: (second attempt)


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## kratedisease (Aug 15, 2010)

*Optima batteries are hard to recover once discharged below 11 volts.*

I am in NYCity. Yes all of the batteries were Yellow top VW batteries from the VW dealer. Here in USA only the VW have 6 volt yellow tops.You can only get yellow top 6 volt batteries ( VR6 EOS uses 2 in seris) from the VW dealer. Optima does NOT sell 6 volt yellow tops to anyone else. 


The VW dealer service supervisor told me that the optima batteries have a incredibaly high " internal" failure rate. He told me that they have lots of problems with Optima factory yellow tops and that they are NOT reliable. Let me explain...


A internal battery failure is a battery that WILL ALLWAYS start a car engine BUT does NOT have "internal" power or strength.

So my car/engine would ALLWAYS start BUT I would persistantly have other issues. The windows would randomly NOT all go down together with the "all windows down" switch. The windows would also randomly NOT all go up with the same switch. One or two windows would just not move unless I waited a bit and repressed the window switch. Next and most obvious that the battery is bad is that the engine idle would stay at 1000 to 1200 RPMS. Normal RPM at idle is around 500R RPMS to 700 RPMS, but when the battery is bad internally the car will start every time BUT the car will idle abnormally high over 1000 RPM. This is because the car computer raises the idle since the computer sensor feels the battery needs to be charged since it will not hold the full voltage. ( a low voltage condition) . Then I had the windows "index feature" not work, even though the engine would always start and turn over. The window index feature is when the windows drop 1/2 inch when you open the door to get by the weather stripping. Well , when the battery fails internally the windows will not drop down and you cannot close the door fully because this is actually controlled by the computer ( and not by the window itself). Remember, my car ALWAYS started !!. You only need around 10 volts to start the car but any thing below 11 volts is a internal battery failure and that causes the computer to not work properly and cause all kinds of problems like I described above. 


1st VW yellow tops lasted 2 years. 2nd set were bad after 3 months ( replaced under warranty). 3rd set arrived bad out of the box and were installed and then removed the same day by the dealer after they tested bad. My 4th set now seem ( I hope...fingers crossed) to be OK so far but I have only had them a month or two so far. ALL were Yellow tops installed by the VW dealer. 


google "optima battery review" and you will see that many people are fustrated with how unreliable the spiral cells are.
Additionally once they are deeply discharged they rarely recover. That is what the dealer also told me and confirmed.
And optima's web site also says that once they are very discharged ( low voltage condition) they are hard to recover. I bought a red top optima back in 1995 to put in my corvette back in 1995 and what a piece of crap ! I thought that it would be a upgrade to switch to an optima back in 1995 when they first came out, and it was easily the worst battery I had ever had in the corvette. Never stronger than a convential battery and once I left the interior lights on by mistake over night the battery was good to throw out.


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## chocoholic_too (Jan 2, 2007)

Did you use that charger yet? Did it work? I bought a Deltran battery tender junior a while ago and hooked up the connection lead with the eyelet terminals and then I put the covers back on. It seemed to take a couple of days at least to charge the battery to full. But last week I connected it just overnight to top it off and it was dead in the morning. No I wonder if I truly need new batteries or if maybe that charger you were talking about might do the trick a little while longer.
My battery went dead for the first time about 3 months after I bought my Eos brand new. I had it sitting for 2 weeks while on vacation. 6 months later it died again after 1 week beeing gone. 1 month later it died one day to the next and wouldn't start. Had it towed and they replaced the batteries twice. The first set was bad right out of the box. Since then I'd gotten a good jump starter and it died on me every time it sat for a few days. 
Lately it's been going on after only 2 days or so of not driving it. But once I jump start it and drive to work, it seems to do just fine...until the next time.:banghead:
Now I'm not sure if replacing the batteries might not solve anything. Maybe it's just a bad design. Maybe that's why they stopped making this model.


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## mikemaan (Apr 1, 2007)

*Optima Yellow Top twin 6v spiral cell batteries.*

Doesn't look too hard to replace. The cheapest I could find the batteries was for $326 at 1stVWParts.com http://bit.ly/126TZRB. They have a parts explosion chart there too. [see pics below] 

I highly recommend getting the Optimate 6 Charger. $85 on Ebay. It will bring your dead battery back to life and claims that with routine maintenance will add 400% longer life. http://www.tecmate.com/u_optimate_6.php 

I noticed a big improvement with Optimate 6 and I hope it does what it says. BTW you can buy a similar device directly from Optima for $107. 

I finally dove in to the trunk to reveal these babies. [see pix below] From what I researched, and I've spent away too much time doing so, Optima only sells these batteries to VW. There is no direct Optima part number. They are not even on the Optima website. DO NOT BUY the "Red Tops" they are not deep cycle and will not last. 

Note: 
Combined Cold Cranking Amps 1500. 
Total Amp Hours 110 
Combined Cranking Amps is 1740. 
Combined Reserved Capacity is 240. 
That's a lotta power!


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## torzech (Nov 28, 2012)

mikemaan said:


> I highly recommend getting the Optimate 6 Charger. $85 on Ebay.


 Are You sure this one fits 6V batteries? 



> Recommended for STD (with removable filler caps), sealed AGM (absorbed glass mat), sealed GEL and spiral cell *12V* lead-acid batteries up to 240Ah.


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## torzech (Nov 28, 2012)

mikemaan said:


> Doesn't look too hard to replace. The cheapest I could find the batteries was for $326 at 1stVWParts.com


 I've found them here: *http://www.tayna.co.uk/Optima-Yellow-Top-YTS-2.1-8010-355-YTS2.1-AGM-P8773.html* 



mikemaan said:


> I finally dove in to the trunk to reveal these babies. [see pix below]


 Mine looks a bit different.


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## torzech (Nov 28, 2012)

Batteries are being... "repaired".


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## MILK511 (Oct 27, 2013)

So the Optimate 6 is not for 6 volt batteries. Is that why you connected them for the charge, essentially mimicking a 12 volt battery? How did it work? I assume that unless the batteries are in identical states the program may not run the optimal program for them?
Thanks!


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## sr3051 (May 11, 2008)

*trickle charger*

has anyone hooked up a trickle charger to their car.. i have a 2008 vr6 and was told by Optima that if i hooked up a trickle charger i can dramatically increase the life of the batteries.


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## mikemaan (Apr 1, 2007)

torzech said:


> Are You sure this one fits 6V batteries?


Yes, but you must attach to BOTH batteries in series.


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## mikemaan (Apr 1, 2007)

Yes! Optima makes a big Difference!


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## DavidPaul (Nov 28, 2009)

My 2009 Eos is the 2.0T so I only need one battery but it is definitely superior to others. Wouldn't even consider any other brand and model battery other than the Yellow Top.


I also have a SmartTop which I use frequently when my Eos is out of the garage, so the top is raised and lowered almost every time without the engine running and to make it even harder on my battery, the Eos is driven seldom.

Bought the car new and it only has a little over 10,000 miles on it. 

If one uses a trickle charger on a fairly regular basis, the Yellow Tops can last up to 15 years. Of course, trickle charging can help any battery last longer. Any battery charger will work quite well for these batteries as long
as it has a setting for AGM and at least 3 amps for trickle charging. An Optima branded charger usually costs more but is not any better than a good quality Schumacher, for example. I just happen to use a Schumacher branded charger.


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## kratedisease (Aug 15, 2010)

I bought the Optimate charger and left it connect continually to the batteries connect in series for about 6 months. The batteries were removed from the car since I had to buy new yellow tops from VW. Well i had the batteries tested today and they are still bad. As it turns out the optimate works very well on classic lead acid batteries but does NOT recondition the spiral cell batteries. 
These Optima batteries are crap. Junk. 

The new battery that i have had for a year now installed in my EOS (that replaced the batteries that were left continually connected to the optimate charger) were tested at Advantage auto parts today and the tester said they only had 180 CCA out of the 750CCA that the battery is rated at.

WTF-- JUNK !! I am so frustrated with tis Optima JUNK. 

The service department of my VW dealership said that they are aware that Optima has a huge failure rate, but there are no other batteries that would fit.

I called Optimate who makes the trickle charger and they also confirmed that the Optima batteries do not recondition well and have a low success rate of reconditioning. Voltage is fine at 12.7 

BUT it is the CCA's or capacity that is low. 

Going to go to the dealer in the next few days to complain.


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## DavidPaul (Nov 28, 2009)

kratedisease said:


> I bought the Optimate charger and left it connect continually to the batteries connect in series for about 6 months. The batteries were removed from the car since I had to buy new yellow tops from VW. Well i had the batteries tested today and they are still bad. As it turns out the optimate works very well on classic lead acid batteries but does NOT recondition the spiral cell batteries.
> These Optima batteries are crap. Junk.
> 
> The new battery that i have had for a year now installed in my EOS (that replaced the batteries that were left continually connected to the optimate charger) were tested at Advantage auto parts today and the tester said they only had 180 CCA out of the 750CCA that the battery is rated at.
> ...


Your Optima batteries have a 3 year, non-prorated warranty, so you should be fine.


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## kratedisease (Aug 15, 2010)

DavidPaul said:


> Your Optima batteries have a 3 year, non-prorated warranty, so you should be fine.


Actually the warranty is only from VW and it is YES prorated thry VW.

Optima will not take the batteries back.


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## kratedisease (Aug 15, 2010)

this is my SIXTH (6th) set of optima batteries in 3 years !!

JUNK !!!


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## DavidPaul (Nov 28, 2009)

kratedisease said:


> Actually the warranty is only from VW and it is YES prorated thry VW.
> 
> Optima will not take the batteries back.


That is too bad. 

I guess Optima knows their 6 volt batteries better than anyone. Hence the not so good warranty.

Wouldn't it be a simple modification to be able to convert to a single 12 volt battery or are these batteries not connected in series?

Since I have never seen a twin 6 volt system in person, I really don't know.


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## mark_d_drake (Aug 17, 2006)

I am on my forth set in under 7 years, so I also disappointed, although all have been replaced at VW's expense so far.. Any other 3.2 owners out there care to comment.


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## DavidPaul (Nov 28, 2009)

mark_d_drake said:


> I am on my forth set in under 7 years, so I also disappointed, although all have been replaced at VW's expense so far.. Any other 3.2 owners out there care to comment.



I bet that VW corp will be glad when every 3.2 Eos is in the Boneyard.


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## kratedisease (Aug 15, 2010)

*Replaced batteries with red top optimas and all is good*

Ok so I just wanted to update the thread and mention that I replaced the yellow top batteries with red tops myself that I bought online and the car works fine. No issues. Everything works as it should. Hopefully these red top 6 volts will last better than the problematic yellow tops. 

There is NO ISSUE losing any settings or requiring a visit to the dealer

What I did is connect a jumper/booster cable to my front engine jumper connectors in the engine compartment while I disconnected and swapped out the yellow tops for the red tops that I bought. 

I will keep everyone posted as to how long these red tops last. They come with a 3 year warranty.


These red top optimas are cheaper ( $135 each or $270 for the set shipped) than what the dealer charges ( ($500-$600) for the problematic yellow top optima batteries

Everything functions as it should now. There is NO ISSUE switching to the red tops. The fit and operate exactly the same as the OEM Yellow tops that are in the trunk.


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## CUCURELLO (Mar 8, 2014)

kratedisease said:


> Ok so I just wanted to update the thread and mention that I replaced the yellow top batteries with red tops myself that I bought online and the car works fine. No issues. Everything works as it should. Hopefully these red top 6 volts will last better than the problematic yellow tops.
> 
> There is NO ISSUE losing any settings or requiring a visit to the dealer
> 
> ...


Hello kratedisease
Thanks for having the courage to try the red tops.
It is a certainty that every one with a 3.2 is eager to be kept up to date on the long term results.
May I request please that you update this thread regularly?
Even if it is to simply say "all is well" on whatever date after so many miles.

Also
You are among a number of people in this thread that have changed batteries without losing memory.
Some by just going for it, and others like you, with a creative solution
For those who might still have concerns there is this device on the market from ECS.
I am sure others are available as well at similar or better prices

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2748866/


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## kratedisease (Aug 15, 2010)

*Did my research on red top optima batteries*

I have done a TON of homework/ related to this EOS optima battery issue. I can confidently give you the best advice since I spent several years researching this issue. 

Absolutely YES you should buy the optima RED top 6 volt batteries instead of the dealer yellow top batteries. 

There is virtually NO difference between the RED top optima battery and the dealer yellow top optima battery that the dealer sells. Both are made by optima. 
The only difference is that the yellow top version that the dealer sells has a minuscule higher voltage at full storage capacity ( 13.9 volts for yellow tops vs 13.7 volts for the red tops) because it has one more AGM layer wound inside the case, BUT this is the reason the YELLOW top optima battery that the dealer sells fails so often. Unlike the red top, the yellow tops that the dealer sells are prone to short out some internal "plates" from any minor impact to the case. Once a optima battery has an internal short, the battery is garbage. 

So, the dealer yellow tops batteries are actually more problematic and have a much higher failure rate. 

I have even found that the RED top optima version is BETTER quality and lasts longer because it has a few less layers wound in the case which actually give the "plates" more room and prevents them from shorting from any impact to the battery case which is the problem with the dealer yellow top batteries. And there is NO need to have " deep cycling" yellow top optima's batteries because the 4 cylinder turbo EOS version use a standard NON deep cycling battery and actually do NOT have any of these battery issues that the 6 cylinder versions have. The reason VW chose the deep cycling yellow tops as original equipment on the 6 cylinders is because VW assumed the yellows have more reserve power to power the energy drain of an owner operating the hardtop with the engine OFF. 

So with out getting technical, the answer is YES the red top batteries are identical and swap out for your yellow top batteries perfectly.

I threw out my dealer yellow top optima batteries and I myself replaced them with the optima red tops and have been PROBLEM FREE SINCE I DID !! 

I do not know if you are in the USA, but you need to buy TWO 6 volt red top optima batteries. They are an EXACT fit replacement and cost around $150 each shipped.
If you are in the USA, Summit Racing sells the shipped for about $140 each. You need two. Any mechanic can swap them out in less than one hour. I did it myself . So if you buy two red tops and pay a mechanic one hour labor you should be under $400 total.
And the red top optimas are actually better than the yellow tops. ( this was confirmed by an past employee of optima), I have his post as proof. 

Also, make sure that your batteries are actually "bad". The dealer may tell you your batteries are bad but they may actually be OK. My dealer erroneously tested them installed in the car which 100% will give you a reading on a tester that they have very low CCA (cold cranking amps) and are "bad" because the cable connecting them has resistance that throws off the tester. 
To test the 6 volt batteries they must be tested individually as 6 volts and not in series as 12 volts because if they are tested as 12 volts in series the testing device will 100% erroneously tell you they are bad even if they are good BECAUSE the cable connecting them has resistance that tester assumes is internal battery resistance. I personally spoke to the engineer at optima regarding this. So many VW dealers not knowing this test the batteries together as 12 volts which causes the CCA reading to be less than 180 yet if tested individually would be normal at around 850. I have personally verified this myself. So be cautious if the dealer tells you your batteries tested bad. 
They MUST BE TESTED individually as 6 volts and not connected together and tested as a 12 volt. 

Last piece of advice...IMPORTANT.. 
If you are swapping out batteries you need to keep all the computer settings. In the 2.3 NON turbo cars this is easily done when swapping out batteries since the engine compartment has the jumper cable connections in the engine compartment in front and the batteries are in the rear trunk.
You must first attach jumper or booster cables to the front engine compartment jumper connections from another car ( or good 12 volt battery) before you remove the batteries in the trunk so that your EOS does not loose its computer memory settings. Keep the jumper cables connected in the front engine compartment the entire time until the rear battery swap is completed. This is what I did to keep all my computer settings. 

Mark. 

PS I am posting this on the forums to help others


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