# VVT issues with series of codes 2001 1.8t beetle



## 1.8turdo (Aug 11, 2019)

So a month ago my beetle threw a p0011. I did some research and decided to start with an oil change and reset the code. Everything has been ok since then until today. After the car has been driven around 1k miles over a month it took three tries to start. When it started the check engine light was on. Codes p0012 and p0342 this time. I've seen a lot of threads where people have replaced lots of things to solve vvt issues related to these codes. I was hoping this particular arrangement of codes could allow a more specific diagnosis. 

I replaced the timing belt in 2016 at 35k miles when I bought the car (since it was 14 years old) I used a Gates timing belt and some other parts from an ECC kit (new water pump, tensioner, etc.) The timing belt looks tight and normal still, I haven't gotten deep enough to determine if its slipped a tooth but since its relatively new I don't expect that's the issue. 

I'm hoping to start with the cheaper and easier jobs like new camshaft position sensor, but ultimately prepared for VVT solenoid. A lot of threads on this topic tend to just die, i'm assuming people fix it and move on or they're just burning the beetles to the ground in frustration...

Looking for any suggestions or thoughts!


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Always look up trouble codes; on the ross tech wiki, which can give you vw specific info, generic obd II codes definitions won't: 

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16395/P0011/000017

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16396/P0012/000018

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16726/P0342/000834

The cam chain tensioner; is run on oil pressure and low oil pressure, is a common issue, as these 1.8T's get older. The oil pick up, can get clogged up with carbon debris, sludge; correct vw spec oil and change interval is crucial on these engines. Eventually, the oil pickup screen can get clogged and this oil goes; to the cam chain tensioner, the small oil galley can get clogged and there is a small screen, going to the tensioner, that can get clogged as well. So, read the definitions; check oil pressure, timing marks and eventually, the timing chain tensioner/guides, wear out, causing a loose chain, noisy top end in the drivers side area of the valve cover. Worst case scenario, eventually; the chain/tensioner, can cause a catastrophic failure and bend the valves in the head. SO, checking oil pressure, clogged screen in the pickup, checking for abnormal chain tensioner noise/wear, chain looseness, buffers for wear, timing belt teeth worn off, timing marks being off, etc.; ultimately, could save your engine. 

Here are lots of good videos; showing bad tensioners with loud noise and loose chain noise: 



https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=1.8t+timing+chain+tensioner+noisy

If you have VCDS by Ross Tech; you can do output testing on the tensioner, that can tell you how far off the timing is and that could indicate a failure:

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/513474-Block-93-cam-phase-position-question

replacement and testing info/videos: 

https://www.google.com/search?clien...j41j0i22i30j33i160j0j0i7i30j30i10.CTxpt8oaYWM


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## 1.8turdo (Aug 11, 2019)

billymade said:


> Always look up trouble codes; on the ross tech wiki, which can give you vw specific info, generic obd II codes definitions won't:
> 
> http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16395/P0011/000017
> 
> ...


Thanks, this is a way more comprehensive response than i've found anywhere else. I'll start with dropping the oil pan to clean the pick up, Is there any easy way to describe accessing the other pathways you mention? I'll be pulling the valve cover off to inspect the cam chain tensioner so i'll be looking for sludge generally while i'm in there but it would be helpful to know some key spots to locate. I've already got a new cam shaft position sensor so i'll install that, and I plan on replacing the tensioner. I got the car cheap and don't mind erring on the side of caution to have it in the best possible condition. 

I don't have a VCDS by ross tech. I might replace the position sensor and then try to get the car to run to check oil pressure. Just to get a basis on how involved the rest of the job will be.


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

I would keep things simple; before tearing things apart, checking the oil pressure, is pretty straight forward and just requires the removal of the oil pressure sending unit (then, install the thread adapter, hose and then the pressure gauge). 

Here are some links; to testing procedures, that could be done to diagnose your problem: 

chain tensioner testing: 

https://workshop-manuals.com/volksw...nspection/camshaft_adjustment_valve_checking/

oil pressure testing: 

https://workshop-manuals.com/volksw...ressure/component_information/specifications/

Any oil pressure test kit; should work fine but you do need, to have a adapter, that fits the metic threads, into the block/oil galley. Some testers; have many adapters but many do not have the one we need, for our cars. I ended up buying a adapter set from Autozone: SunPro metric adapter kit part #: cp7573 (it comes with a number of adapters; the one for the 1.8T is: M10 X 1.0 to 1/8" NPT).

https://www.google.com/search?client=opera&q=cp7573&sourceid=opera&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

If you see yourself; fixing and maintaining your VW long term, investing in a scan tool like VCDS by ross tech, is something to consider and can really help diagnosing problems.


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## 1.8turdo (Aug 11, 2019)

*update*

I replaced the cam shaft position sensor and cleared the codes. The oil pressure test went as follows:
Initial start up (cold) idle was at 3 bar. Once warm this dropped to 1.4 bar (which is in spec range)
At 2000 rpm it was at 4 bar also in spec range
Above 2000 rpm I got around 5 bar a little more with more throttle (I did have some loss of pressure at higher rpm due to a less than perfect seal where the gauge was installed, however it did not leak at all at idle or 2000rpm)

Cam chain doesn't sound very loud to me. But i'm not opposed to opening it up to check it visually.

I'd like to think this is very good news. Would you advise I still clean the oil pickup? And simply double check timing marks?


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

It couldn't hurt; however, what i would want to do first, is the chain tensioner testing with vcds by ross tech. This would tell you if the chain is stretched out and the vvt system is worn out or defective. Either of those issues, could cause a timing issue and cause the cam code ti be thrown. A visual inspection, is always a good idea on a high mileage 1.8T bit the vcds output test, would give you a definitive answer on the chain wear or defective vvt tensioner, which runs on oil pressure. Did any trouble codes comes back; after the cam sensor replacement, clearing codes and driving the car?


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Any updates?


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## subber598 (Aug 2, 2018)

This is some super info here. Having similar issues with my 2011 2.5L with 84k, but not sure where to find the solenoid. Thank you.


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

We are discussing the 1.8T 4 cylinder engine: you have the 2.5L 5 cylinder that has a timing chain vs. a cam chain/tensioner; what problem are you having?


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## subber598 (Aug 2, 2018)

Sorry not sure how to address a thread; perhaps I should start my own. But yes, I'm trying to find the VVT Solenoid; is it on the valve cover or chain cover? and bow much is involved in replacing it? I drew a p0011 and p0343 code and the guy at autozone said it's most likely the VVT Solenoid. I'm fairly competent at diy (I've done exhaust, brakes, wheel brgs, struts & springs), but not sure about the complexities of replacing this solenoid. Thak you


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Is this a new beetle 1998-2010 or a Beetle 2012-2019? Here are the code definitions; note the possible reasons and things to check, for these trouble codes. 

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16395/P0011/000017

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16727/P0343/000835

The 2.5L has been known; to have issues with the tensioner, buffers and chain wear, causing loose chains, chain noise, throw codes and in a worst case scenario, catastrophic failures, which will take out the head, by bending valves.

The P0011 mentions the Camshaft Adjustment Valve 1 (N205) possibly being faulty; here are some links for that: 

camshaft solenoid control valve. Also known as N205 valve

location: #14: 

https://workshop-manuals.com/volksw...camshaft_position_(cmp)_sensor_g40/page_2157/

Testing: 

https://workshop-manuals.com/volksw...tor/component_information/diagrams/page_3593/


The p0343 trouble code definition; mentions the cam position sensor. Here are some service manual links: 

Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor G40

location: 

https://workshop-manuals.com/volksw...locations/camshaft_position_(cmp)_sensor_g40/

testing: 

https://workshop-manuals.com/volksw...or/component_information/locations/page_2158/

Because, of possible chain issues and potential damage; I would definitely check it out. Here are some youtube videos; showing loud chain noise on the 2.5L, that can be something to compare yours to, if things are noisy, possible loose chains or failing tensioner.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=VW+2.5L+chain+noise


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## subber598 (Aug 2, 2018)

Again, thanks for all of this; I will check these links later today. These codes were on my 2011 jetta sedan.


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Ok, 2011 Jetta: seems to be based upon the A6 platform; a later model, then the New Beetle, production ending 2010. I don't know, if the 2.5L changed; on the later models, you could post in the Jetta/Golf forum or the 2.5L tech forum, timing chain issues, have been well documented, so I am sure there is good info on vwvortex in the appropriate areas. The service manual links, that I posted above; were for a 2007 2.5L New Beetle, so things may or may not be revised or different.


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## subber598 (Aug 2, 2018)

Ok thanks, I'll check those forums for added info.


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