# DIY: Install Updated Mechanical Timing Belt Tensioner



## inlinevee (May 22, 2010)

*Intro*
VAG released an updated MECHANICAL timing belt tensioner made by Litens for the 1.8T engine several years ago to replace the ubiquitous, but problematic hydraulic tensioner setup. It uses a coiled spring inside an eccentric-mounted pulley to apply pressure to the belt. It is very similar to the old _manual_ tensioner setup, except the internal spring allows for automatic adjustment over the life of the belt. Best of both worlds. This DIY covers the parts needed and answers some not-so-obvious questions you'll have when you get the parts in your hand for the first time.

Blame it on me being new to the platform or vendors' marketing departments, but finding information on this new setup was very difficult. Several vendors sell the parts and there are several threads in which OPs installed the parts, but never followed up with how they did it. So here it is all in one place.

*Parts Needed*

06A 109 243A - Mechanical Tensioning Pulley 
06A 109 181 - Holder/Idler 
06B 109 166 - Stud, double-ended, reduced diameter (pic)
N 015 278 5 - Washer (pic)
N 011 008 40 - Nut (pic)
Various Mfg - Timing Belt (Gates Racing pictured)

*Procedure*

_1._ 
Remove old timing components following procedure of your choice. This DIY assumes you are already at this point.

_2._ 
Install the larger diameter end of the stud into the cylinder head where the old tensioner shoulder bolt used to go. 
I was not able to thread it in by hand, so you can use the nut on the other end for leverage with a wrench or socket as pictured.
Thread until hand tight. The stud should bottom out in the head at the right depth, but if it does not, verify that the beginning of the tapered portion sits level with the cylinder head surface. You will need sufficient length exposed for the tensioner to mount.
The holder/idler is also shown in the installed position using the same screws and mounting holes as the old hydraulic tensioner.










_3._ Slide the tensioner pulley onto the stud. Position the rear arm tab into the freeze plug on the cylinder head.
This is important for locating the tensioner. The orientation of the eccentric is not important at this time.










_4._
Slide washer onto stud. Visually check to make sure there is enough exposed thread beyond the washer for the nut to engage.
If the stud is too short, first ensure there is no corrosion or debris on the block preventing the tensioner from seating properly, then if necessary, return to step 2 to unscrew the stud 1/4 turn. Repeat as needed.
Lightly tighten the nut finger tight. You should be able to freely rotate the aluminum installation key about the stud by hand.










_5._
Not pictured - install the water pump. Clean surfaces, lube o-ring, use same screws. Nothing special here.

_6._
Install timing belt, routing is the same as before. Align any timing marks you made for yourself, white in the pictures.
For what it's worth, I routed the belt over the water pump last.
You may also want to place the engine mount in roughly correct spot in this step. Specifically the bolt in the Bermuda triangle inside the timing belt. 
You don't have to, it's just harder to install later. 



















_7._
Using an 8mm allen wrench, rotate the installation key approximately 120 degrees clockwise as indicated by the arrow stamped on it. 
The pressure of the belt against the eccentric will cause the internal spring to wind. 
When the post on the eccentric is aligned with the cutout under the installation key, the pulley is properly tensioned.
Other versions of the pulley may have a plastic slot that stops rotation at the correct time.
With the allen wrench holding this position, use a 13mm socket to tighten the nut. 
In the picture below, I erred on the side of "too tight" on the cutout.










_8._
Double check that you've torqued all of the screws properly.
Holder/Idler screws - 25 Nm 
Tensioner nut - 25Nm
Water pump screws - 15 Nm

_9._
Using a 12-point 19mm socket on the crank sprocket, rotate the engine over 2 full rotations. 
Verify that the timing marks on the cam gear and flywheel align.
Don't be alarmed that the paint marks on the belt no longer line up, this is normal. It prevents uneven belt wear.


_10._
Completed Setup


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## [deleted] (Jul 24, 2016)

Interesting diy! Is this exclusive to either 058 or 06A blocks? If not this is even better. Cheers 🍻


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## inlinevee (May 22, 2010)

[deleted] said:


> Interesting diy! Is this exclusive to either 058 or 06A blocks? If not this is even better. Cheers 🍻


Good question. I can't say for certain, this was on an 06A block.

When I went to the dealership to special order the stud/nut/washer, they didn't show up as "available" in the system for my '04, but we found them listed under the '97-'00 Passat, which would be an 058 block. So I expect the tensioner pulley to fit.

The idler holder/old hydraulic piston has a different part number between the 058 and 06A blocks: 
058 109 479B 
06B 109 477

The two potential issues we need answers to are:
- Do the 058 and 06A blocks have the same hole spacing for the idler holder?
Since the hydraulic portion of the holder is going away, we really only care that the idler is properly located.

- Does the 06A piece fit under the timing cover of the 058?
The 06A holder doubles as a portion of the exhaust-side timing cover, whereas the 058 is completely enclosed. 

058 Belt setup









If someone with an 058 wants to compare, I have an old tensioner they can have. 

Cheers! :beer:


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## [deleted] (Jul 24, 2016)

inlinevee said:


> Good question. I can't say for certain, this was on an 06A block.
> 
> When I went to the dealership to special order the stud/nut/washer, they didn't show up as "available" in the system for my '04, but we found them listed under the '97-'00 Passat, which would be an 058 block. So I expect the tensioner pulley to fit.
> 
> ...


I always up to find a great way to update our engines!

Send some pieces by and we'll have a definite answer for both blocks!


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## inlinevee (May 22, 2010)

[deleted] said:


> I always up to find a great way to update our engines!
> 
> Send some pieces by and we'll have a definite answer for both blocks!


:thumbup:

PM'd


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## GasInMyVeins (Jul 11, 2010)

This is great info. Thanks!


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## inlinevee (May 22, 2010)

Few months later update, car is still running well and timing setup is working as intended.


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## fabric8 (Jul 4, 2000)

Thanks for this write up. I replaced my dad's timing belt today on his B6 A4 1.8t (2003). I ordered the basic kit from Blauparts which was comprised of the belt, new tensioner and roller. I then ordered a waterpump along with the double ended stud, washer and nut from ECS. Little did I know that the kit from Blauparts includes the double ended stud, washer and nut.

What I didn't realize is that on the A4, the existing tensioner pulley is mounted to the double ended stud. The double ended stud is already present on the block. So at least for a B6 A4 1.8t, you don't have to order the double ended stud, washer or nut.

So now I have 2 brand new sets of these if anyone needs them.

Here's a pic showing the existing double ended stud already in place. And another showing the new tensioner and roller. FYI, in the pic, the tensioner hasn't been tightened to the correct setting yet.


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## h00ters CEO (Jan 24, 2008)

:heart: Bookmarked. Thank you for this write up :beer:


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## inlinevee (May 22, 2010)

fabric8 said:


> Thanks for this write up. I replaced my dad's timing belt today on his B6 A4 1.8t (2003). I ordered the basic kit from Blauparts which was comprised of the belt, new tensioner and roller. I then ordered a waterpump along with the double ended stud, washer and nut from ECS. Little did I know that the kit from Blauparts includes the double ended stud, washer and nut.
> 
> What I didn't realize is that on the A4, the existing tensioner pulley is mounted to the double ended stud. The double ended stud is already present on the block. So at least for a B6 A4 1.8t, you don't have to order the double ended stud, washer or nut.
> 
> So now I have 2 brand new sets of these if anyone needs them.


Awesome! I'm glad it worked out well for you and your dad. Thanks for the update on a different chassis!

I guess we'll never find out from [deleted] up there about the bolt spacing on the tensioner. I shipped him my old one on my own dime and then he ghosted us.


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## chasingPSI (Oct 27, 2014)

I did this upgrade on my ATW and here are my results:










Runs fine. Did the mechanical upgrade with my water pump for hitting 200k. You will see on a 058 block, the location of the previous hydraulic tensioner. My block was threaded for this different bolt location, which I used a 13mm bolt to clean and install the new idler in the picture.










What I noticed, and I encourage all who have done this, is that the new tensioner protrudes a few mm and actually pulls the belt forward. Is now rubbing through the upper timing cover (which is fine with me, maybe not for the belt though). 










Noticed even on the OP's AWM, it does seem to be pulling his belt visibly forward. I think it is VERY important to turn the motor over to see for yourself!

https://www.instagram.com/p/BmcBCGG...tm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1utnz45fwd98a

Perhaps a 5mm washer such as behind the camshaft bolt could pull the cam gear forward to mitigate any chances of slipping, however I need other successful installers to check their setup so we can continue this!


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## Numchucks (Feb 13, 2018)

Wish I saw this thread when I did my timing belt change 3 months ago. The old tensioner design absolutely sucked for accessibility and ease of removal. 

OP; thanks for digging this up for us 




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## chasingPSI (Oct 27, 2014)

058 Update:

Swapped an AEB large port head for my ATW head about 5k miles ago, as I deleted my SAI years ago. 










Swapped an AWM cam gear when doing my timing belt at 200k to accompany the mechanical tensioner and water pump. Setup runs perfect, and love how easy the mechanical tensioner made the service.

Got creative with the timing cover. I call it "Active Timing", which allows me to monitor belt condition and set TDC without having to remove the cover


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## inlinevee (May 22, 2010)

chasingPSI said:


> Noticed even on the OP's AWP, it does seem to be pulling his belt visibly forward. I think it is VERY important to turn the motor over to see for yourself!
> 
> Perhaps a 5mm washer such as behind the camshaft bolt could pull the cam gear forward to mitigate any chances of slipping, however I need other successful installers to check their setup so we can continue this!


You had me scared, I ran outside to check when I saw your message, albeit a few months late.

Mine looks to be doing ok, actually more towards the inside. There's still about 1mm of sprocket past the belt on the inside. No rubbing anywhere on the cover that I could see. 

10k miles on the setup now. :thumbup:


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## mat3833 (Jan 30, 2008)

Does anyone have link to a mechanical timing belt kit for the awp 1.8t? I contacted europa and they do not have the mechanical tensioner available anymore and blauparts isn't showing it on their site for me. I'm about to do a timing belt service on with cam chain and tensioner(is making noise on startup and I'm getting the code) and I want to do both at the same time since I'll have the cams out anyways. 

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## Icecruncher (Oct 7, 2018)

I like the idea of this option better than the manual one.


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## Icecruncher (Oct 7, 2018)

mat3833 said:


> Does anyone have link to a mechanical timing belt kit for the awp 1.8t? I contacted europa and they do not have the mechanical tensioner available anymore and blauparts isn't showing it on their site for me. I'm about to do a timing belt service on with cam chain and tensioner(is making noise on startup and I'm getting the code) and I want to do both at the same time since I'll have the cams out anyways.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


If it's not showing up on Google maybe the issue of the belt slipping made it obsolete?


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## mat3833 (Jan 30, 2008)

I'm not sure, I can find kits for the audi vehicles(the A4 most notably.)and I'm sure they would fit my jetta but I prefer model specific kits. 

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## leonadventure (Feb 19, 2016)

inlinevee said:


> Few months later update, car is still running well and timing setup is working as intended.


something struck me today.. the only thing really required to do this conversion is the stud kit and tensioner. maybe a new guide roller if yours has grown tired. simply bypassing the hydraulic dampener and switching the pulley would do the same job. the angle is predetermined from the factory so you know its safe.. im about to do a head job. ill report back.


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## inlinevee (May 22, 2010)

leonadventure said:


> something struck me today.. the only thing really required to do this conversion is the stud kit and tensioner. maybe a new guide roller if yours has grown tired. simply bypassing the hydraulic dampener and switching the pulley would do the same job. the angle is predetermined from the factory so you know its safe.. im about to do a head job. ill report back.


I think you're probably right. So long as the roller is in decent shape, it should work just the same. 

Would make the swap a little cheaper so you don't have to spend the money on an extra fancy bracket. :thumbup:


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## carel2 (Apr 28, 2015)

Can someone please help me
It come from the machine shop
And found that the one lobe closest to the wheel have a play of 0.015mm 
Please advise what to do 


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## GTIAWW (Jan 18, 2004)

Quick question guys. I apologize if this has been answered already but I did not see any mention of this. Did you guys have to trim or cut a hole in the upper timing cover so the nut and stud of the mechanical tensioner had clearance in order to re-install the cover?


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## GTIAWW (Jan 18, 2004)

leonadventure said:


> inlinevee said:
> 
> 
> > Few months later update, car is still running well and timing setup is working as intended.
> ...



This is exactly how i did mine. I gutted the hydro tensioner put a new lower roller on it and just bought the mechanical tensioner, stud and nut and it works fine. My only issue was that i had to cut a hole in the upper timing belt cover so the stud and nut could clear in order to re install the upper cover.


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## fabric8 (Jul 4, 2000)

GTIAWW said:


> Quick question guys. I apologize if this has been answered already but I did not see any mention of this. Did you guys have to trim or cut a hole in the upper timing cover so the nut and stud of the mechanical tensioner had clearance in order to re-install the cover?


No. The nut and stud dont protrude aany further.

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## The Kilted Yaksman (Oct 31, 2000)

Icecruncher said:


> If it's not showing up on Google maybe the issue of the belt slipping made it obsolete?


ECS is the only reseller that shows up in a google search of the part number. $116 for just the tensioner. Maybe everybody else decided it wasn't such a good thing after all.


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## vdubguy97 (Sep 13, 2003)

The Kilted Yaksman said:


> ECS is the only reseller that shows up in a google search of the part number. $116 for just the tensioner. Maybe everybody else decided it wasn't such a good thing after all.



I have been running this kit for years with no problems. Much better design then the hydraulic tensioner. There is actually a technical buliten stating to replace all hydraulic tensioner cars to the new INA mechanical update.

Here is one place to get it from..https://www.blauparts.com/audi-a4-timing-belt-kit-18t-amb-base.html


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## The Kilted Yaksman (Oct 31, 2000)

vdubguy97 said:


> I have been running this kit for years with no problems. Much better design then the hydraulic tensioner. There is actually a technical buliten stating to replace all hydraulic tensioner cars to the new INA mechanical update.
> 
> Here is one place to get it from..https://www.blauparts.com/audi-a4-timing-belt-kit-18t-amb-base.html


Good to know. I looked at Blauparts' site for the kit based on an 01 VW and just saw the standard hydraulic tensioner kits. Is the TSB only for Audis?


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## vdubguy97 (Sep 13, 2003)

The Kilted Yaksman said:


> Good to know. I looked at Blauparts' site for the kit based on an 01 VW and just saw the standard hydraulic tensioner kits. Is the TSB only for Audis?


Yes the TSB was for Audi’s. 

I will look tomorrow at work to see if I can find it and post it up


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## The Kilted Yaksman (Oct 31, 2000)

vdubguy97 said:


> Yes the TSB was for Audi’s.
> 
> I will look tomorrow at work to see if I can find it and post it up


Dammit, I forgot about this thread. Thanks for getting back to me. Ok, so this kit is designed for Audis, is it also going to be appropriate for a transverse AWW in a VW? Also, I had a metal impeller water pump installed last time I had the timing belt done, is it still a good idea to replace it with the timing service? I can do all the work myself, I just want to make sure I get what I need.


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## vdubguy97 (Sep 13, 2003)

The Kilted Yaksman said:


> Dammit, I forgot about this thread. Thanks for getting back to me. Ok, so this kit is designed for Audis, is it also going to be appropriate for a transverse AWW in a VW? Also, I had a metal impeller water pump installed last time I had the timing belt done, is it still a good idea to replace it with the timing service? I can do all the work myself, I just want to make sure I get what I need.




I forgot myself about this post and forgot to look for the TSB. Yes the TSB is for Audi cars but I myself ordered the parts using the part number directly associated with TSB for my transverse 1.8t and it fit perfecly fine.

I would only run the plastic OEM water pump there is a updated version with better impeller plastic material to stop the impeller from coming apart. I am personally not a fan of the metal impellers water pumps, only because when they do failil(which is rare) they caus minor damage to the engine block...at least the plastic one just shatters and you just fish out the pieces.

I always replace my water pump during every timing belt service, honestly just for piece of mind...probably overkill but it’s cheap and easy to do while you are already in there


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## The Kilted Yaksman (Oct 31, 2000)

Just did this last Saturday. The install was easy enough, once I got it all torn down, but as another poster has asked about, the stud does stick out quite a bit further than the very flat headed factory allen bolt on the _transverse_ AWW. The whole job takes a while, but that's just because there are so many things to be done, and so very little space to work in, not because it is particularly difficult. Maybe the biggest pain was getting the engine in position for the new mount. The OE mount had ~215k miles, and had sagged downward a good inch and to the rear maybe half an inch.


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## lorge1989 (Sep 3, 2008)

You can get the kit here: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-vw-timing-set-ina-06b198119a

I did a tb for my brother a few months back. Now it seems like I need to do one for my 058.


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## White Jetta (Mar 17, 2002)

So, I bought the kit from PelicanParts.com a few weeks ago. Just got around to installing it this morning on my 2002 Jetta 1.8T that I've had since 2002, so 18+ years. This is one of the most easy well put together kits I've done in 4 timing belt jobs on this car. I had been running the IE with mechanical tensioner kit for the 2nd and 3rd timing belts after stock, had the 3rd one fail on me due to lack of tension and strip some teeth 2 years ago. This new style tensioner is an absolute win with it's internal spring tension.

The kit I bought was $70 and included the tensioner, belt, stud, idler pulley, and nut & bolt.


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## CD155MX (Dec 18, 2007)

White Jetta said:


> So, I bought the kit from PelicanParts.com a few weeks ago. Just got around to installing it this morning on my 2002 Jetta 1.8T that I've had since 2002, so 18+ years. This is one of the most easy well put together kits I've done in 4 timing belt jobs on this car. I had been running the IE with mechanical tensioner kit for the 2nd and 3rd timing belts after stock, had the 3rd one fail on me due to lack of tension and strip some teeth 2 years ago. This new style tensioner is an absolute win with it's internal spring tension.
> 
> The kit I bought was $70 and included the tensioner, belt, stud, idler pulley, and nut & bolt.


Awesome. Thanks for sharing.


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## GTIXpress (Sep 21, 2000)

I've tried looking around for these part numbers and none of them list usage for an AWP 1.8T. I'm due for another belt replacement and was considering going this route. I went with the regular [Integrated Engineering] mechanical tensioner last time with worked fine but was a pain to tighten the pulley.


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## vdubguy97 (Sep 13, 2003)

GTIXpress said:


> I've tried looking around for these part numbers and none of them list usage for an AWP 1.8T..



They will not list it for the AWP engine. I have used this kit twice and it works fine every time. The kit is designed for the 06A block.


You can also get this kit from worldpac which is advanced auto parts euro division.


https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-vw-timing-set-ina-06b198119a#fitment


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## GTIXpress (Sep 21, 2000)

vdubguy97 said:


> They will not list it for the AWP engine. I have used this kit twice and it works fine every time. The kit is designed for the 06A block.
> 
> 
> You can also get this kit from worldpac which is advanced auto parts euro division.
> ...


Thanks! No issues with the stud being too long or the belt hitting the cover?


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## vdubguy97 (Sep 13, 2003)

GTIXpress said:


> Thanks! No issues with the stud being too long or the belt hitting the cover?


The nut for the stud does hit the cover. I used a small hole saw to open that section up


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## White Jetta (Mar 17, 2002)

vdubguy97 said:


> The nut for the stud does hit the cover. I used a small hole saw to open that section up


Yup, this. Everything else about the kit works great.

I got this https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-vw-timing-set-ina-06b198119a?ads_cmpid=1586103036&ads_adid=62588326929&ads_matchtype=&ads_network=g&ads_creative=298122218788&utm_term=&ads_targetid=pla-299287466145&utm_campaign=&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&ttv=2&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxNT8BRD9ARIsAJ8S5xaDeTvjo9zpbO4xOetV3EPxBkGeNlQqobqOzIO84QZFJslXwfdKkgMaAn2QEALw_wcB


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## Darepoole (Sep 3, 2019)

Sorry for the old bump but for the people that have used the updated tensioner on 058 blocks did you use an 8v tensioner stud or an 058 stud? Also which timing belt did you use 06a or 058?


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## Darepoole (Sep 3, 2019)

Darepoole said:


> Sorry for the old bump but for the people that have used the updated tensioner on 058 blocks did you use an 8v tensioner stud or an 058 stud? Also which timing belt did you use 06a or 058?


Bumping


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

Darepoole said:


> Sorry for the old bump but for the people that have used the updated tensioner on 058 blocks did you use an 8v tensioner stud or an 058 stud? Also which timing belt did you use 06a or 058?


This is the tensioner I’m currently using. I ordered a bolt from ECS but it turned out to not fit and I reran the Audi bolt. Used the hydro tensioner for the idler pulley and it all went together well. The hydro tensioner looks like it will run but once the timing belt was taunt it cleared nicely. 









FEBI BILSTEIN Timing Belt Tensioner 06A109243A / 38654 | eBay


Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for FEBI BILSTEIN Timing Belt Tensioner 06A109243A / 38654 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



www.ebay.com


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## Darepoole (Sep 3, 2019)

Brake Weight said:


> This is the tensioner I’m currently using. I ordered a bolt from ECS but it turned out to not fit and I reran the Audi bolt. Used the hydro tensioner for the idler pulley and it all went together well. The hydro tensioner looks like it will run but once the timing belt was taunt it cleared nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Much appreciated


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

Darepoole said:


> Much appreciated


I’m not 100% sure it will swap to my AWP block I am 99% confident it will. The pulley bolt/stud will need to be sourced to fit the Audi because the older style bolt I ordered did not. Lemme check my emails…


This one will not fit. It was too fat to fit the pulley hole. 



https://www.ecstuning.com/b-continental-parts/timing-belt-tensioner-stud-kit/026198243/


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## Darepoole (Sep 3, 2019)

Brake Weight said:


> I’m not 100% sure it will swap to my AWP block I am 99% confident it will. The pulley bolt/stud will need to be sourced to fit the Audi because the older style bolt I ordered did not. Lemme check my emails…
> 
> 
> This one will not fit. It was too fat to fit the pulley hole.
> ...


I've got an aeb block done a lot of searching seen a few people say they did it but didn't provide info unfortunately


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## v-dub-p (Aug 10, 2011)

Just to update and provide an alternative supplier of this kit. This can be found online or on ebay. I managed to. Get my self an open but unused kit for 80 quid.. So we'll happy with that otherwise they go for about 110 to 130 on there


The is a Gates power grip kit and the part number is KP85491XS-1

This also comes with a metal impeller water pump. 
Haven't fitted mine yet but here's some photos.


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## White Jetta (Mar 17, 2002)

Still running great after almost 2 years and 30k miles.


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## Madriverarms (Aug 24, 2017)

Bump for a question on the pulley. With the nut finger tight should I feel the spring resistance as I turn the 8mm allen key CW? Put another way should the allen key want to rotate CCW if you were to release it?


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## bostonmacosx2 (Jun 29, 2017)

Would this solution work on an AWM 2003 Passat 1.8T? Where will I be looking to get the KIT.. would that FCP euro kit work?


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## fabric8 (Jul 4, 2000)

bostonmacosx2 said:


> Would this solution work on an AWM 2003 Passat 1.8T? Where will I be looking to get the KIT.. would that FCP euro kit work?


Im 99% sure it would. I had a 2003 passat as well but sold it for a B6 A4. The AWM and AMB are virtually identical. And yes, the FCP euro kit on the previous posts is a great price.

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