# Black Headliner Pic



## Indiepunk (Feb 14, 2007)

I finished redoing my headliner/pillars in black and wasn't sure how I felt about the visors and dome light being gray. I'm going to install it soon and if I can afford to buy the visors in black or find someone to redo the old ones I will. Just wanted to see what others thought of the color combo. Doesn't really bother as much as I thought.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: Black Headliner Pic (Indiepunk)*

You know, Ace has spraypaint for like $5 a can


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## sims159915 (Jan 24, 2005)

wanna post up a diy?


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## andrew.bator (Nov 9, 2007)

how hard is it to take out the headliner with out breaking anything....


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## ShockwaveCS (Jun 22, 2006)

*Re: (andrew.bator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *andrew.bator* »_how hard is it to take out the headliner with out breaking anything.... 

x2


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## Murderface (Nov 13, 2006)

*Re: (ShockwaveCS)*

moar pics! I wanna do the same thing.


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## Indiepunk (Feb 14, 2007)

*Re: (sims159915)*

I will take some more pics when I get home and explain what I did.


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## Morio (Feb 16, 1999)

*Re: (Indiepunk)*

looks fantastic!!!


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## exboy99 (May 14, 2002)

*Re: Black Headliner Pic (Indiepunk)*

that's the new coffee table mod.
everyone is gonna start doing this.
I have tons of parts around my place also.


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## Indiepunk (Feb 14, 2007)

*Re: (sims159915)*









Removal
As you can see in the first picture the interior fastens to the car with a series of metal clips placed evenly across the length of the pillars/trim. The clips slide under plastic sections which can be seem better in the third picture. You need to get under each piece which can be done with a flat head and your fingers. 
I gently pulled systematically across each piece. One of three things is going to happen. Clip is going to pop from the body, the clip will stay in the body and slide off from the trim piece or the trim piece plastic is going to brake. Much like removing your coil packs for the first time, no matter how careful you are, chances are that you are going to brake one of the plastic ridges. It's no big deal. Just don't brake a lot of them and don't tug at it.
To remove the headliner I would start with the center section above the back seats and move around. I removed my whole trunk interior so I can't remember if on the back corners around the headliner if you have to remove the two metal posts that your back seats click into. Just consider that all interior panels connect to each other and to get one out you may have to remove others. It ain't brain surgery so don't let it intimidate you.
One the four trim sections/pillars are out the headliner shell is held in by the visor, visor clips and three screws. Two of the screws are under caps in the visor arm and one is just in front of the dome light, holding the small plastic visor in place. The visor and visor clips are essentially post that fit into females sections in the frame. They pop out with a flat head.Once you remove them the headliner should come loose but will still be attached five sets of wires that have plugs. Two come from the bottom of the visor posts, two go to the lights under the visor and one goes to the dome light. They pull off easy.
At most it might have took my an hour to remove it all. You just get to get up the balls to destroy your beautiful TT.
Prep
Removing the fabric from the pillars/trim is easy. The pita is removing the existing adhesive. I used the 3M product in the second picture, which I got from Auto Zone or one of those auto chains, and a rag. I would use some rubber dish washing gloves when using this stuff and make sure to have good ventilation. Some of the adhesive my seem charred and will not come off. For that I used sand paper.
The headliner will require you to remove the dome light which comes out easy. The front of it has two metal tabs that holds it in by applying pressure against the shell. The two lights under the visor pop out by applying pressure to a metal tab from the underside. There is also a plastic vent that serves no real purpose. 
After removing the fabric from the headliner you are going to by left with a lot of yellow foam. To remove it a used a scrub brush with plastic bristles. 

Re-Upholstering Plastic Pieces 
I chose to go with vinyl. I know a lot of people want to do alcantara or something baller but my TT has a problem every two months and until I get it paid off I have to watch my finances. 
The deal is that I have a friend whose mom does marine upholstery/restoration. She has swatch books and it was easy to just choose from it cause she had an account with a wholesaler in Miami. I bought something like 6-7 yards and paid $70 with shipping. 
I used DAP Weldwood adhesive that she already had so I don't have a pic of the container. I use a chip brush to paint on the adhesive to the plastic pieces (after roughing up the surface with sand paper) and then did about 80% coverage to the vinyl. The vinyl has a fabric backing to it... fyi. You don't want to go heavy on the vinyl fabric cause it could soak through and show on the front. 
After applying the adhesive I left the pieces to dry for a 24 hours. The reason for this is because when drying a bi-product is in gaseous state. You are letting the adhesive out-gas. If you apply wet you have a chance of air bubbles forming in between the trim and the vinyl. 
To re-activate the adhesive you use a heat gun when applying the vinyl. This also helps because the heated vinyl takes form to the shape of the molded plastic pieces. Don't get the vinyl to hot because you can leave finger prints in. Constantly move the heat gun. I used my hand or the roller in the fourth pic lightly to apply pressure.
Some problem solving is needed when wrapping the vinyl on the back sides. Making slits every inch or so helps especially around corners. Just make sure not cut in to much so that it shows on the front side. When you get to the corners you have to cut flaps as shown in the third pic as to cover the plastic in the corners.
The Headliner 
I use 1/4 inch foam on the headliner and the deck lid in the trunk. To apply adhesive to those and the foam I used my friends mom's spray gun/compressor cause the area was so large. Same drying time applied. The foam was difficult because there was curved/concaved areas. The foam bunched in areas but as long as it bunched on the under side it doesn't really show through to the vinyl. It can't be seen on top. You than have to use a fresh blade to cut out the areas of the foam for the lights, visor posts and vent.
The vinyl applies easy to the flats areas but takes more effort around the dome light and curved corners. The vinyl needs to be stretched at the dome wants to bunch up in the corners. Applying the vinyl took a lot heating and repositioning. After a couple times the vinyl gets trained to sit how you want it. As you get to the edges perfection isn't needed as the trim/pillars covers the headliner around except for in the front.
The downside of the foam is that it is thicker than than the standard headliner foam. Things aren't going to fit back it the same way. They will be a little tighter.
Hope this is helpful. If I missed something I will add to this later. Here is pic of the other pieces.








and this is my car (minus the Audi Sport badge on the grille)


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## jason bouchard (Aug 25, 2005)

*Black headliner questions*

Bumping an old thread before I start a new one. 

2001 Audi TT 225 Coupe 
Black with Grey headliner and pillars and black seats/dash 

So my headliner failed and I need a new one, I found a black headliner and black visors and overhead lights. 
I am looking for the black A pillars/B pillars/ Overhead pillars ETC. 

Any ideas guys? 


Thanks


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