# my 16V wont' start. help!!!



## theearl85 (Jul 31, 2008)

Okay, so I bought a MK2 16V and was told that it had a bad fuel pump. It did not. After replacing the distributor, spark plugs, plug wires, starter, cold start valve, fuel pump and box (from 40mm to 50mm) and fuel lines, finally we broke and tested compression. There was none. So we embarked on our first engine replacement. 
We put everything in and she will crank but will not ignite. We've tried everything. The only things we have not replaced are the ECU and CIS fuel box. We have exhausted all our resources here and now have to turn to everyone here. 
If there are any tips or tricks or something we have forgotten please let us know. I also posted this on the 16V forums. I would love nothing more than to hear this car start. For the love of God help us!!! Thank you guys and Dub Love!!


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## ultravw (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: my 16V wont' start. help!!! (theearl85)*

The fuel pump should be either the 52mm or the 60mm diameter size to provide the fuel pressure needed for the injection system. Getting this to just run is easy. Your new motor must have compression and the correct timing on both cams as well as the distributor. Check that the ignition coil is producing a strong spark and you can try to see if the engine will start off of carburettor cleaner sprayed into the air cleaner.


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## theearl85 (Jul 31, 2008)

sorry, i meant that we went from 52 to 60mm. we made sure the timing was on and it was pointing to #1 at TDC. the spark we're getting is blue which is good spark. and we've put good amounts of starter fluid. it will backfire a little but thats about the best we've got.


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## WaterWheels (Aug 14, 2005)

*Re: my 16V wont' start. help!!! (theearl85)*


_Quote, originally posted by *theearl85* »_... was told that it had a bad fuel pump. It did not. After replacing the distributor, spark plugs, plug wires, starter, cold start valve, fuel pump and box (from 40mm to 50mm) and fuel lines, finally we broke and tested compression. There was none. 

Gotta question just why you replaced the fuel pump even though it was not bad, but that's really not why I'm posting. Seems you spent a lot of time and money on what would appear to be a simple "set up" oversight. I can not say for sure this is the problem but from what you have said it could very well be. 16v engines are very touchy when it comes to timing, not just the ignition timing but also engine setup timing and cam to cam phasing. Going out on a limb I would estimate 80 percent or more first start problems with 16v engines is the engine timing. You have to do it in two steps and you have to do it very very careful so you are over 100 percent sure it is right before closing up the engine. If I were you I would open up the valve cover and check cam phasing and do the engine timing again and again until you can't stand checking it anymore. Then see what happens when trying to start it.

The fact that you had no compression and it backfires when attempting to start it with starter fluid also indicates that one or more of the timing functions are off, maybe way off. You really can't have zero compression in an engine unless something is wide open, like valves when they should be closed. Backfiring when trying to start is typical for cam phasing mistakes on 16v engines too.


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## theearl85 (Jul 31, 2008)

we fixed the timing issues and (though i feel like an idiot for saying this) my firing order was off. we got her started and now there is a rough idle and i think the the o rings on the injectors are bad. i'm guessing they are stock so i'm going to replace them this week and hopefully that will solve my problems. i will keep updating issues as they come (and they will because it's a MKII lol) but thank you guys for the advice.


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## rmvw91 (May 10, 2005)

*Re: my 16V wont' start. help!!! (WaterWheels)*









This causes no compression. head gasket blew and the guy drove it for like 4 miles to get it home


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## WaterWheels (Aug 14, 2005)

*Re: (theearl85)*

I hate myself sometimes for being this way, but I have to ask the obvious question (to me anyway). Your not trying to indicate that "ignition timing" and/or a wrong firing order caused there to be no compression are you








OK, sorry, I re-read things just to be sure and it was the first motor with no compression and that was replaced. So, yeah, of course a bad firing order can keep things from starting.


_Modified by WaterWheels at 9:16 AM 1-7-2010_


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## ultravw (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: my 16V wont' start. help!!! (rmvw91)*

Ouch! How did that head break?!! Looks like a grinder hit it. 20 years in the VWs and never seen that before!


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## rmvw91 (May 10, 2005)

*Re: my 16V wont' start. help!!! (ultravw)*

believe it or not I have seen a few of these. even in the 20v 1.8t heads also. Its caused from the a blown head gasket between the two cylinders. And if you drive on it a little ways like this it burns right through the aluminum. this head can actually be fixed successfully. Machine shop can weld it and mill it back down and it would be as good as new.


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## ultravw (Oct 27, 2009)

*Re: my 16V wont' start. help!!! (rmvw91)*

I think all the leaking head gaskets I have seen leaked over to a water hole. Leaking between the cylinders is probably more detremental do to two cylinders taking turns firing into the same leak were only a narrow bridge separates them.


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## WaterWheels (Aug 14, 2005)

*Re: my 16V wont' start. help!!! (rmvw91)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rmvw91* »_And if you drive on it a little ways like this it burns right through the aluminum. 

Seen it two or three times on cast iron also.


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