# BBS LM Refinish and My Venture Into Polishing



## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

*WTB: 18x8.5" LM barrels, can have 1" or 1.5" lips*

So I picked up a set of LM's recently and plan on polishing the lips. These will be the second set of multi-piece wheels i have worked on and ready to take the plunge into buying some more tools and do it all myself. 

Anyway onto the wheels. 

LMP078

18x8 et35













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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

I am picking up a buffer from Harbor Freight. I have read some reviews, and for my use this should be good to start with.

Central Machining 6" Buffer 



Did some research into wheels/compound because I knew very little aside from watching someone else do it. 

So for my use this looks like what I will be following. 

1. Sisal Wheel-Black Compound 
- Rough Cut To Remove Scratches.
- Emery Compound, a course abrasive material for removal of scratches, pits, paint,
rust etc

1. Spiral Wheel-Brown Compound
- Final Cut & Initial polish. Start with cutting action, finish with color action.
- Tripoli compound used for general purpose cut and color on most soft metals

2. Loose Wheel-White Compound
- Final Polish
- Blizzard compound, used for color and final finish.

Some notes on the methods:

Cut and Polish Motions
There are two basic buffing motions you should use.
1. CUT MOTION gives you:- SMOOTH SURFACE, SEMI-BRIGHT & UNIFORM.*
The work piece should be moved AGAINST the direction of the wheel, using a MEDIUM to HARD pressure.



2. COLOR MOTION gives you:- BRIGHT, SHINY & CLEAN SURFACE. The work piece should be moved TOWARD the direction of the wheel, using a MEDIUM to LIGHT pressure




I will also have some light crub rash to fix, so will work on getting more details of that when I get there.


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## BT12 (May 25, 2012)

Dude you dont need that monstrocity... You just need the attachments from harbor freight... It comes with all the polishing rouge's. You can get the red one for even more shine.

http://m.harborfreight.com/14-piece...t-98707.html?utm_referrer=direct/not provided










Just attached the bits to your drill and go to town. Go with the rough rouge's then to the fine ones. They give you extra a ton of wheels

There is a red after the white for the hollywood shine...

Btw you dont need to worry about which way the wheels polish.


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

BT12 said:


> Dude you dont need that monstrocity... You just need the attachments from harbor freight... It comes with all the polishing rouge's. You can get the red one for even more shine.
> 
> http://m.harborfreight.com/14-piece...t-98707.html?utm_referrer=direct/not provided
> 
> ...


Looks like that turned out really well. I may pick up that kit as well. I think having a stationary buffer will really help for smaller things, and I think in the long run will serve me better. 

I may look into the red compound though. I just got looking around and like Dutchswift said, there aren't many technical threads around about rebuilding wheels. I'll eventually add my Ronals in here. I like seeing the math and everything associated, for some reason offsets have turned into et PERFECT, or YOLO...which is a-whole-nother subject.


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## BT12 (May 25, 2012)

03_uni-B said:


> Looks like that turned out really well. I may pick up that kit as well. I think having a stationary buffer will really help for smaller things, and I think in the long run will serve me better.
> 
> I may look into the red compound though. I just got looking around and like Dutchswift said, there aren't many technical threads around about rebuilding wheels. I'll eventually add my Ronals in here. I like seeing the math and everything associated, for some reason offsets have turned into et PERFECT, or YOLO...which is a-whole-nother subject.



Coolio, you should totally get the attachements...the reason the attachments may work better is because you have more control. With the wheel you have to consistently hold the wheel steady. The weight of the lips will lay flat on your workspace and you can control the drill or grinder with attachments using 2 hands. The white gets the shine pretty close to mirror shine, the red is called a jewerly rouge which takes it 1 step further (more show car quality). 

If nothing else but the kit so you can get the compound/rouges...

Im looking forward to the thread.

Btw are you going to breakdown your wheels? If so draw a line on the inside of lips/barrel so that you dont have to fiddle with it till it fits perfectly.


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

BT12 said:


> Coolio, you should totally get the attachements...the reason the attachments may work better is because you have more control. With the wheel you have to consistently hold the wheel steady. The weight of the lips will lay flat on your workspace and you can control the drill or grinder with attachments using 2 hands. The white gets the shine pretty close to mirror shine, the red is called a jewerly rouge which takes it 1 step further (more show car quality).
> 
> If nothing else but the kit so you can get the compound/rouges...
> 
> ...


Might as well pick it up when I go haha. I will be pulling the faces out, I will use some aircraft stripper to get the lips bare and don't want any of that on the faces.


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## DUTCHswift (Feb 22, 2012)

opcorn: In. Why aren't they split already??? :laugh:


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

DUTCHswift said:


> opcorn: In. Why aren't they split already??? :laugh:


Not in my possession yet haha. Picking them up tomorrow though!


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## BT12 (May 25, 2012)

Thats not a good excuse!!! :bs:


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## DUTCHswift (Feb 22, 2012)

03_uni-B said:


> Not in my possession yet haha. Picking them up tomorrow though!






BT12 said:


> Thats not a good excuse!!! :bs:


:beer::laugh:


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

Time to buy some tools


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

Merry chrimzmas


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## BT12 (May 25, 2012)

Lots of flamable stuff near the fireplace (books, tree)...nice :facepalm:
:eace:


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## racerpoet (Apr 20, 2013)

BT12 said:


> Lots of flamable stuff near the fireplace (books, tree)...nice :facepalm:
> :eace:


Yeah, that way he doesn't have to run outside for firewood. Duh! :laugh:


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

BT12 said:


> Lots of flamable stuff near the fireplace (books, tree)...nice :facepalm:
> :eace:





racerpoet said:


> Yeah, that way he doesn't have to run outside for firewood. Duh! :laugh:


fake electric apartment fireplace.


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## [email protected] (Jan 6, 2014)

You could totally match The Tire Rack Christmas Tree!


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## racerpoet (Apr 20, 2013)

[email protected] said:


> You could totally match The Tire Rack Christmas Tree!


Nice! Do you guys sell those? lol


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## [email protected] (Jan 6, 2014)

racerpoet said:


> Nice! Do you guys sell those? lol


I wish! I would have been first in line!


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## carlhuebner (Jan 10, 2010)

yeah i just bought the drill attachments and put the buffing wheels on my 18v drill


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

carlhuebner said:


> yeah i just bought the drill attachments and put the buffing wheels on my 18v drill


yeah yeah. I'll prolly get those too. I just really want a bench polisher, that's how we did the lips on my ronals and they turned out great. Will update with that build soon.


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

.


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

.


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## MK3 LUV (Nov 23, 2012)

opcorn:


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## DUTCHswift (Feb 22, 2012)

You should take it off of here or copy that Ronal/ACT build to another dedicated thread if you can. There have been a few people that have approached me with questions about those wheels and it'd be sweet to have a specific place to look for information on them considering how unique and rare their parts are. :thumbup:


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

DUTCHswift said:


> You should take it off of here or copy that Ronal/ACT build to another dedicated thread if you can. There have been a few people that have approached me with questions about those wheels and it'd be sweet to have a specific place to look for information on them considering how unique and rare their parts are. :thumbup:


I debated that. May go ahead and do that.

Edit: went ahead and did it. Asked for mod powers in this forum so i'll play clean up when I get those.


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## DUTCHswift (Feb 22, 2012)

03_uni-B said:


> Asked for mod powers in this forum so i'll play clean up when I get those.


:beer::beer::beer: 'Bout damn time. :laugh:

*EDIT*:

When you do, you should make and sticky a build thread almanac like Hyde did HERE, and include these threads:

*Pointless RS Build*

*My Second Wheel Build*

Actually I'll do it... haha. You can just sticky it. :laugh:


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

Sounds good to me. Ill let ya know when i get them haha. 


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## carlhuebner (Jan 10, 2010)

i think i'm going to start my OZ Pegasus build thread now, even though the rebuild is already done :laugh:


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

carlhuebner said:


> i think i'm going to start my OZ Pegasus build thread now, even though the rebuild is already done :laugh:


I kind of did the same with the Ronal SX's haha.


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## DUTCHswift (Feb 22, 2012)

carlhuebner said:


> i think i'm going to start my OZ Pegasus build thread now, even though the rebuild is already done :laugh:


Please do. I've been tying to collect as much information as I can for this section and don't have anything on Pegasus' yet. :thumbup:


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## carlhuebner (Jan 10, 2010)

DUTCHswift said:


> Please do. I've been tying to collect as much information as I can for this section and don't have anything on Pegasus' yet. :thumbup:


currently in the works. I have tons of pictures and i'm trying to document it as clearly as possible :thumbup:


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## nerdybeat (Jun 5, 2011)

PM'd you about BBS hardware info - to follow up I emailed BBS about it. Specifically for my BBS RS-GT's: "We list their description as M7 x 24.5mm Titanium."

Closest I found is: http://www.srrhardware.com/product/black-split-rim-bolts-m7-x-24mm

I'm just a bit reluctant, I don't know why. I've never reassembled nice 2 piece wheels, however BBS (very helpful via email btw) told me that they should be torqued to ~22 ft/lbs.


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## Carbon13GTI (Oct 17, 2012)

Currently redoing my LM's as well. Also drive a MK6... awkward. 

Anyways. lol Mine are 17x8/9. I just split the first wheel today. I plan on doing a full polish. Polished face, lip, and barrel. Gonna be a long journey. lol


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## Carbon13GTI (Oct 17, 2012)

BTW I have the black bolts that came off my wheels. I'm not going to reuse them if you want black. And you know they'll fit. I'm gonna get all new bolts and nuts, so I don't need them.


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

nerdybeat said:


> PM'd you about BBS hardware info - to follow up I emailed BBS about it. Specifically for my BBS RS-GT's: "We list their description as M7 x 24.5mm Titanium."
> 
> Closest I found is: http://www.srrhardware.com/product/black-split-rim-bolts-m7-x-24mm
> 
> I'm just a bit reluctant, I don't know why. I've never reassembled nice 2 piece wheels, however BBS (very helpful via email btw) told me that they should be torqued to ~22 ft/lbs.


try titanium-touch.de

Was going to say try black forest industries but after a few friends last year had trouble with their bolts I hesitate recommending them. I think the problem with yours is that the RS-GT's don't use the same bolts as the rs/lm's. Let me know if you find any other places or hear anything else from BBS. :beer:



Carbon13GTI said:


> Currently redoing my LM's as well. Also drive a MK6... awkward.
> 
> Anyways. lol Mine are 17x8/9. I just split the first wheel today. I plan on doing a full polish. Polished face, lip, and barrel. Gonna be a long journey. lol


Not too awkward haha, LM's are a classy wheel and honestly surprising I don't see more. Post a thread about your refinishing would love to see it! 



Carbon13GTI said:


> BTW I have the black bolts that came off my wheels. I'm not going to reuse them if you want black. And you know they'll fit. I'm gonna get all new bolts and nuts, so I don't need them.


I'll take them if you don't have any use for them, just PM me what you want for them :beer:


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## DUTCHswift (Feb 22, 2012)

nerdybeat said:


> BBS told me that they should be torqued to ~22 ft/lbs.


Be VERY careful when you go tighten those to spec. BFI sent me this:



> 222 in/lbs is recommended for BBS and OZ wheels with M7 bolts.
> Be sure to use a quality torque wrench *that measures in in/lbs*, not ft/lbs.
> Torque wrenches that measure in ft/lbs - if miscalibrated - can severely over-tigthen the bolts.
> 
> ...


So with that in mind, this email was specifically about their own assembly bolts (not OE BBS bolts), but I will be using a in/lbs torque wrench. :thumbup:


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

DUTCHswift said:


> Be VERY careful when you go tighten those to spec. BFI sent me this:
> 
> 
> 
> So with that in mind, this email was specifically about their own assembly bolts (not OE BBS bolts), but I will be using a in/lbs torque wrench. :thumbup:



Did you see/hear what was happening with their bolts last year? I had a couple buddies with them and they literally sheared and the bolt popped out of the whole. One guy was driving to SOWO when it started happening to him.

So yes assembly torque is VERY important, but not to scare people...just don't over tighten them and you will be just fine :beer:


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## carlhuebner (Jan 10, 2010)

it's such a touchy area. people think "oh these are my wheels, i want to make sure they're tight enough" and crank them down. when really thats the opposite of what you want to do. listen to your torque wrench and you'll be fine. I torqued my 21 year old original OZ bolts to about 23ft-lb (275in-lb) and had no issues. the fronts I even did on two separate occasions, both times i split them.


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## BT12 (May 25, 2012)

dont forget that it also depends on if the bolts are new or used. Used bolts are already stretched so should only be torqued to something like half the original specs.


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## DUTCHswift (Feb 22, 2012)

BT12 said:


> dont forget that it also depends on if the bolts are new or used. Used bolts are already stretched so should only be torqued to something like half the original specs.


Find a source on that if you could. I've heard similar stories, but it sounds like Carl reused his hardware more than once and kept the same torque value without issue.


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## BT12 (May 25, 2012)

DUTCHswift said:


> Find a source on that if you could. I've heard similar stories, but it sounds like Carl reused his hardware more than once and kept the same torque value without issue.




Not answering it but...Came across this, u may eant to save on ur other thread...
https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Article - Reuse of Fasteners.pdf

Actually found something from fastenal to say the oppositie. Ill keel looking
https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Article - Reuse of Fasteners.pdf


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

When i redid the Ronals I reused that hardware and torqued them to the original specs. Wheels are with a new owner but havent had any issues. 


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

May have found some 8.5" barrels, would be nice to reverse mount these. 











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## goofydug (Feb 5, 2004)

Just found this thread. I'm hoping to repolish the lips on my LMs soon too. Hurry up and get these done so we can all learn from you!


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

Picked up the polisher, wheels and compounds. 











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## DUTCHswift (Feb 22, 2012)

:beer: Making progress.


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## carlhuebner (Jan 10, 2010)

BT12 said:


> dont forget that it also depends on if the bolts are new or used. Used bolts are already stretched so should only be torqued to something like half the original specs.





DUTCHswift said:


> Find a source on that if you could. I've heard similar stories, but it sounds like Carl reused his hardware more than once and kept the same torque value without issue.


never heard of torquing to half the spec for used bolts. but my rears i re-torqued once after splitting, and the fronts i re-torqued twice, all of them were to factory spec and I never had any issues.

nice updates marc :thumbup:


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

*WTB: 18x8.5" LM barrels, can have 1" or 1.5" lips*


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

Some may already know. I will explain more shortly.


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## BT12 (May 25, 2012)

03_uni-B said:


> *WTB: 18x8.5" LM barrels, can have 1" or 1.5" lips*


Dont forget to check out stanceworks classifieds here and there in their parts section. I havent seen one on sale there lately tho.


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

BT12 said:


> Dont forget to check out stanceworks classifieds here and there in their parts section. I havent seen one on sale there lately tho.


May have found a local set luckily. Just waiting to see.


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

So, LM's have a standard bore of 82mm then they put hub rings in to match the car theyre going on. Mine didnt come with 82-57.1 rings, so out they come. 










I used a pick and was able to get them out pretty easily. 



















And all four are out. 











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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

Not a huge update, but got these in the mail yesterday. 










Gavin at Tirerack had the hookup. 877-522-8473 ext 4693. 

Stripped 2 of the wheels last weekend but didnt take and pictures. Will have the other 2 stripped tomorrow, and will update with pictures then. Also did some light curbage repair. 


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## BT12 (May 25, 2012)

Ur new barrels floating on some cargo ship?:laugh:


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

BT12 said:


> Ur new barrels floating on some cargo ship?:laugh:


Haven't actually gotten my hands on any yet, so proceeding with the 8"s for now.


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## BT12 (May 25, 2012)

03_uni-B said:


> Haven't actually gotten my hands on any yet, so proceeding with the 8"s for now.


 good stuff man, i found i was able to drive much more aggressively with my 8's and it was more fun cause i had wider tires. Now its more for show:banghead:


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

BT12 said:


> good stuff man, i found i was able to drive much more aggressively with my 8's and it was more fun cause i had wider tires. Now its more for show:banghead:


Ya, I did the whole stretched tires bagged car thing with my MK4. So wanted to go more functional this time around. Don't get me wrong, I loved and had a blast with my MK4.


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

Finally stripping the other 2











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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

Got around to sanding some oxidation spots and wanted to test a barrel. Looks god in the picture but going to have to sand a little more out. Expect more progress this week. 











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## spiker369 (Apr 30, 2013)

Which stripper did you use on the lips? Do you know if it'd be safe to use if tires are mounted and the valve stem is in?


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

spiker369 said:


> Which stripper did you use on the lips? Do you know if it'd be safe to use if tires are mounted and the valve stem is in?


Aircraft paint remover. If it was me, I wouldn't. This stuff is crazy strong.


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## spiker369 (Apr 30, 2013)

03_uni-B said:


> Aircraft paint remover. If it was me, I wouldn't. This stuff is crazy strong.


Dang alright, thanks for the info though. Are you planning on doing anything to your centers? Or just polishing the lips?


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

spiker369 said:


> Dang alright, thanks for the info though. Are you planning on doing anything to your centers? Or just polishing the lips?


Centers are in really good condition with just a couple nicks. So plan to leave them as is, I like the original finish as you dont see that too often.


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

Progress? 1 down. 3 to go. 




















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## BT12 (May 25, 2012)

Looks good, ... at this rate, 4 months per wheel ...lol:laugh:

J/k :thumbup:


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

Ya ya haha. I plan on having them done and assembled this week if all goes well. 


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## carlhuebner (Jan 10, 2010)

good work buddy. are you keeping the centers gold? i honestly feel like it would look good with the color of your car.


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

carlhuebner said:


> good work buddy. are you keeping the centers gold? i honestly feel like it would look good with the color of your car.


Thanks Carl :beer: and ya, the original gold finish is actually in really good shape. Had planned on not doing anything other then cleaning them up :thumbup:


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## carlhuebner (Jan 10, 2010)

03_uni-B said:


> Thanks Carl :beer: and ya, the original gold finish is actually in really good shape. Had planned on not doing anything other then cleaning them up :thumbup:


Nice! i loved my gold centers, but up close it was pretty beat up after 21 years. Any idea on how old these wheels are?


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## DUTCHswift (Feb 22, 2012)

:thumbup: Glad you're making progress. Come up to NH and I'll help you finish the other 3. :laugh:


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## carlhuebner (Jan 10, 2010)

DUTCHswift said:


> :thumbup: Glad you're making progress. Come up to NH and I'll help you finish the other 3. :laugh:


New Hampshire eh? you going to DOD next weekend?


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

DUTCHswift said:


> :thumbup: Glad you're making progress. Come up to NH and I'll help you finish the other 3. :laugh:


NH? :laugh::laugh: I'd have to leave now to make it tonight lol. 

Whining here, but damn I'm sore from holding that barrel while polishing ha. 

Need to sand some oxidation spots on the other 3 and they will be ready to polish. Then I need to clean the thread locker off the bolts. Then I'll fully assemble them.


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## DUTCHswift (Feb 22, 2012)

carlhuebner said:


> New Hampshire eh? you going to DOD next weekend?


Thinking about it. Stock R is stock though... Might just go so I can take some ic:'s and hang out.



03_uni-B said:


> NH? :laugh::laugh: I'd have to leave now to make it tonight lol.


Everyone lives far away from me. It's a sad reality... :banghead:



03_uni-B said:


> Whining here, but damn I'm sore from holding that barrel while polishing ha.


Sit in a low chair (or a computer chair with height adjustment) and hold the barrel with you feel while leaning over to sand/polish. That's what I do. That helps when trying to react the force of the torque wrench too.



03_uni-B said:


> Then I need to clean the thread locker off the bolts.


Have fun with that. :laugh:


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## carlhuebner (Jan 10, 2010)

DUTCHswift said:


> Thinking about it. Stock R is stock though... Might just go so I can take some ic:'s and hang out.


well feel free to take pictures of my car


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## carlhuebner (Jan 10, 2010)

03_uni-B said:


> Whining here, but damn I'm sore from holding that barrel while polishing ha.
> 
> Need to sand some oxidation spots on the other 3 and they will be ready to polish. Then I need to clean the thread locker off the bolts. Then I'll fully assemble them.


here was my uncomfortable approach to wetsanding my lips :laugh::laugh::facepalm:


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

DUTCHswift said:


> Everyone lives far away from me. It's a sad reality... :banghead:
> 
> Sit in a low chair (or a computer chair with height adjustment) and hold the barrel with you feel while leaning over to sand/polish. That's what I do. That helps when trying to react the force of the torque wrench too.
> 
> Have fun with that. :laugh:


Ya, I feel like most of the people that have the same passion (or stupidity for spending so much money and time) for the cars I do all live far away lol. 

Been trying to figure out some stools/chairs for the garage. Will keep that in mind. 

And definitely not looking forward to cleaning the thread locker off, got any tips? Bolts are painted/coated black so can use anything too aggresive.



carlhuebner said:


> here was my uncomfortable approach to wetsanding my lips :laugh::laugh::facepalm:
> ic:


Haha, remember seeing this and wondered how the hell you werent sore for weeks. That would kill me lol.


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## DUTCHswift (Feb 22, 2012)

Just run all the bolts through a die. Instead of cutting new threads, it'll just clear out the ones that already exist. :thumbup:


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

Perfect. Will take time, be that should work well.


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

Two down two to go. 











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## Nash_TDI (Nov 1, 2007)

Bump from the dead. Just finish em and put them on the car already.


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

Nash_TDI said:


> Bump from the dead. Just finish em and put them on the car already.


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## BT12 (May 25, 2012)

Thought u sold the car?


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

BT12 said:


> Thought u sold the car?


Still have it, likely selling before the end of the year though.


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