# DIY Catch Can (THAT WORKS) for under $40 and no "welding" required!



## SickAzzGTI (Jul 10, 2012)

*How to Build Your Own Catch Can!* 

_(Scroll all the way down to see finished product!)_

****First and foremost!!!**** I understand that some will be turned off by this, but honestly, I’ve seen WORSE catch cans! Also, purchasing a $200-300 catch can w/ a warranty, a solid reputation and so forth will PROBABLY yield better results and be MUCH better made than what I’m about to present. Hell, when I get the money, I’m having a catch “BOX” being built with bungs, AN fittings, etc. etc… all to my liking! 

BUT, if you’re low on funds, don’t know how to weld aluminum (or don’t have access to a welder), want to do the “Ultimate Delete”, have a car with excessive crankcase pressure and are tired of venting to atmosphere (ME!), etc. etc… than I think this can will work JUST FINE! (Actually I KNOW it will!) AND it either has the option of draining BACK to your oil pan or just having an EASY drain tube, big ports for in/out AND it’s incognito (KIND OF like all of your expensive options!)

First, you’ll want to purchase a catch can from “Egay” that looks something like this… (they’re EVERYWHERE on eBay, just search “catch can” and this is the first one to pop up! It just so happened to only be $15 when I bought it as well! Shipped…. lol)


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Next, you’ll want to go to your local hardware AND auto parts store and pick up a couple of things. At the auto parts store, grab you a can (of your preferred color) of “Exhaust Manifold Enamel” to paint your finished can with… I’m sure any “high heat” enamel will suffice though. While your still in there, ask them where the STICK of “High Temp. JB Weld Putty” is, GRAB IT! If they don’t have the one pictured HERE, don’t get it! That crap you have to mix is JUST THAT… CRAP! I used the “stick” stuff on a valve cover for OVER A YEAR until oil FINALLY started to leak again. It’s good stuff, even at high temps… IF you do it right! There’s certain tricks to make this stuff look good, function well and harden HARD AS A ROCK (or some tough aluminum!) It is only used in THIS project as a air tight “sealant” (for lack of better words! Kind of like a weld!) Go ahead and get your bash on, or stop reading if you don’t like the use of the putty! It’s about to be used!


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Moving on… Go to your local hardware store, ask them where their AN fittings and such are. When they lead you to the isle, grab TWO ¾” Barb Nipples w/ male ends like this (mine were brass obviously)… these things look MASSIVE BTW, with the 1” threaded portion on it!


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Now, if your hardware store is “cool”, they will have the “slinky” looking “Stainless Steel Scrubbers”. **NOT STEEL WOOL!** This will be your baffling for the catch can to BETTER catch oil! It doesn’t break up either, it’s known as a “common” baffling, from what I’ve seen/read. Anyways, my hardware store wasn’t cool AT ALL and I found mine at the “Dollar Tree” for only a dollar. Go figure.  (Sorry, I don’t have a picture of the item, other than what you will see in my photos…)

I’m assuming that you have tools to dismantle the catch can, some sand paper, as well as a drill and drill bit…. If not, BUY IT or borrow it and get help from a buddy or something, this CANNOT be done without a few ORDINARY, EVERYDAY tools! Hopefully you have a little bit of “innovation” in your blood as well... 

…Sorry, you can’t purchase that! Haha…

Now, I TRIED to take pictures of every step, but I would get ahead of myself and do something else before taking a pic of the previous step! So I apologize in advanced for the “steps” (pictures) I don’t have for this DIY. I’ll TRY to explain it the best way I know how. I didn’t think this would turn into a DIY honestly, but I figured I would share for the “broke people” that need a useable catch can! 

Once you get that catch can, dismantle it. Take it all apart until your left with a hollow can and holes in it, this is where the fun/building begins! Something like this, just for reference… 


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Take out this “drain plug” too, you won‘t be needing it… this will become the TOP of the catch can, believe it or not.


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Now, break out that putty and read the directions, follow them to the T! Before applying this putty to the holes you want to cover, I like to roughin’ up where I’m going to put it, as the directions will explain. It “adheres” better to a rough/CLEAN surface, I just took a drill bit and ran it around the holes I wanted to fill, nickin’ it up all around it - followed by a good washing with a scrub brush (Obviously, let the can be completely dry before applying ANYTHING!) When the time is right, just kind of plug that hole with the putty, while pushing all around it. (try to NOT put TOO MUCH pressure on “holes area” but enough to where it adheres to the sides of the hole! Got me? You might be left with a “dimple” but LEAVE IT to DRY! Very important! You can do the JB Weld in LAYERS and it helps a lot with building strength to the “weld”. You got to have the “structure layer” first and build around, on top, of THAT! Even if it looks like a “glob” on the hole, its ok, remember it’s going to be sanded down! I REALLY hope this is making sense… lol 

*TIP - I’ve also found that if you have a cup of water next to you (or even some spit!) that you can get your finger damp after putting the putty in place and “mold it” like clay. It helps A LOT with making it look pretty(ER) and not sticking to your fingers and pulling off the metal you want it to adhere to. IT WILL STICK TO YOUR FINGERS. (TOO MUCH water will soften it up though, NOT what you want! So take it VERY light… just enough to have your finger damp.) 

The holes your going to want to fill are 3. Two right next to each other, on the ORIGINAL top of the catch can… where the original fittings are. One is a bolt hole and the other is a hole for the fitting to slip inside of. This catch can MAY work on a go-kart as is, but honestly, I think even for a 5 HP Briggs it would still be too restrictive! :laugh: 

The other hole is the hole for the clear “level line fitting” on the original can, you want to do the one that’s towards the ORIGINAL top! Remember, we’re flipping this thing upside down in the end, trust me on this. So… the ONLY HOLES that should be left are two on the original top, so you can still fit ONE original fitting (there’s 4 in all, from both of the inlet/outlet fitting(s), you filled TWO… that leaves 2! Doesn‘t matter which one you do honestly…) AND the one hole for the “level line” that was at the top, closest to those original fittings. Make sense? Here, maybe this picture will help…


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After the putty FULLY dries (About 2-3 hrs. ATLEAST. A freezer helps out with hardening it better, if it is thrown in it, immediately after application), take those holes you covered/filled and sand them down. Starting w/ a low grit sandpaper and leading up to a fine grit. It reminds me of a STRONG @$$ “Bondo”, just treat it kinda the same way! Shaping and smoothing to your liking…

Now, when the putty is done being sanded/shaped you can clean it off and be left with THIS… remember we want to KEEP JUST ONE of the original fittings on the bottom! (originally the top - for the LAST TIME!  )


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^^^ Pretend that bottom hole IS NOT THERE! Ha… I told yall I would get ahead of myself! I went ahead and painted it, to see if I liked the color it was going to be! So HERE is a better pic of the “final product” with it’s parts set beside it (excuse the PVC elbow!) Not really the “final product” AT ALL, because we still have some work to do - just the parts that will be “installed”


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When it came to this step, it was a B**** for me, because I didn’t have a drill press, a bench vice, NOTHING! Just a crappy drill and the biggest drill bit I could find to actually fit the small drill - and this aluminum is THICK as HELL on the top and bottom! I did it the “Old School Way” by drilling out the two leftover holes and kind of “dremeling” them out to the size/shape I needed…. By holding the barb fitting up to the hole it would show me how I needed to shape it. I did the top first, like so….


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*^^^ AGAIN... EXCUSE THAT BOTTOM HOLE! :banghead: That was an error on MY part, it should already be filled! (I WAS going to try somethin different at first... just pretend it's filled!)*

When fitting the barbs, I just kinda forced it in there (tapping it out, persay… WITH the fittings threads!) using a wrench of the appropriate size. This was after getting it half-a**** started by hand of course. You can wrench down on it as far as it will go! But you won’t make it past half way, unless you have the EXACT size drill bit or you‘re just a beast at making a PERFECT hole with a small drill bit. I couldn‘t get passed halfway on the threads, I mean I WRENCHED on that fitting, she was in there GOOD! You DO want to leave SOME THREADS showing (if you happen to be “HE-MAN”, leave 4 threads at LEAST! You need them to mold around. I molded a “worm” of puddy around the base of where the fitting’s threads connected in with the can, using my wetish finger to smooth it out and make it look good… after applying it with “good” force. Yet not making it look like CRAP and it is STILL being functional by filling the hole(s)’ holes! Yes, you will have minor “spaces” around the fitting (unless you have the tools to drill out the perfect size hole, like I said!) Mine would have been an inch, but I like the “dremel” way anyways. I like the control I have when putting the hole where I want it! Anywho, the ‘ol putty is doing nothing but filling the small leaks you’ll have around the fitting. BUT, that fitting is F’n CRANKED in there! I cannot express this enough! Lol… I was impressed! I couldn’t bottom them out if I WANTED to, like I said! They’re not going ANYWHERE! Sorry I couldn’t snap a photo of this particular process….

All in all, just use the JB Weld like a WELD like it is SUPPOSED to be used. Simple. Make it look good if your “good”. Lol… I don’t know how else to put it!

Maybe the pictures will do a better job explaining?


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Here… ^^ I have my steel scrubbers, aka BAFFLING next to the catch can and it’s top fitting fitted and “welded”. I also have my other hole drilled, which you can either do BEFORE or AFTER you do the top weld… I just decided to weld the top FIRST, then drill out the other hole. Probably should’ve waited to do all the putty at ONCE, but I wanted to see how good it was going to hold. You couldn’t get a wrench and get these fittings out, and they are SUPER air tight! 

That side hole is where you “stuff” your baffling through… it’s easy, just STUFF it in there! (don’t leave any loose crap, make sure you pack it pretty decent - but not too much to where it can‘t “breath”)


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After drilling, stuffing the other hole, which was done EXACTLY the same way as the top, you can do the EXACT same thing on that hole/fitting! Tapping the hole with the fitting and EVERYTHING! (JB Weld it the same too!) Like such…


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After THAT, let everything harden up real good. It should sit for ATLEAST a day (AND I gave it it’s first hour in the freezer!). Then, your DONE! Just sand her down to make everything look smooth and flush with the original can! Then, put your original top fitting back on and that is NOW your bottom! It can be capped off for an easy drain OR you can run the excess oil that the can catches, back into the oil pan (as some big named brands have suggested… I don’t agree with it, because this (and MOST) catch can catches a LOT of water and SLUDGE! I don’t want that back in my motor, so I just use a cap and small hose clamp. Works Perfect!!! 

**Tip, before putting your original (now drain) fitting back on, I used O-rings on both the bolt hole and the fittings hole to prevent leaks. I also took a dremel and cut down the piece of the original fitting that goes into the can. It helps it drain better, as the original fitting will be at the VERY VERY bottom after cutting it‘s “tube” that goes into the can! But this is not necessary, you’ll just have to wait for the can to fill up MORE before you can drain it! Catch my drift? Just cut it, you’ll see what I mean when you disassemble it! Also, I wanted to use a 90* fitting on the top, but I couldn’t find any locally. If I ever build another (I’ve built two), I will def. use a 90 on top!**

After you're done sanding and prepping for paint, have your wife cook you dinner!   lol...


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Eat the food and then start to spray!!!


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Lastly, here are some pics of the finished product and welds… pressure test it if you like, I guarantee you that it holds MORE than WELL enough for a catch can that’s just pulling vacuum from the TIP. I use mine STRICTLY for my crankcase, my VC is vented with a small VC filter! But you can obviously use a T and run your VC to it too, if that’s what floats your boat!


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Hope some other broke @$$ “Dubber” can try this and give some feedback one day! Lol… I wouldn’t share it if it didn’t work well! I will also be updating with some install pics on MY CAR, after I finish putting the motor back together! :thumbup:

PEACE BROTHAS and SISTAS!!!! :beer:


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## 4ceFed4 (Apr 3, 2002)

Nice :beer:


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## SickAzzGTI (Jul 10, 2012)

4ceFed4 said:


> Nice :beer:


Thanks... working good thus far! :thumbup:


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## 1999.5GTIVR6 (Jun 15, 2011)

to avoid spending the 15$, and dealing with Ebay. you could always use a protable camping propane tank. 

iv seen disposable one made out of pop bottles lol. 
thanks for the right up though :thumbup: 

iv almost considerd using an oil filter


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## SickAzzGTI (Jul 10, 2012)

1999.5GTIVR6 said:


> to avoid spending the 15$, and dealing with Ebay. you could always use a protable camping propane tank.
> 
> iv seen disposable one made out of pop bottles lol.
> thanks for the right up though :thumbup:
> ...


Absolutely .... another good one is a "portable, camping, gas can".... they sell them at MOST Walmarts and K-Marts! It just has a top you can twist off and its made for gas, so its pretty "hefty". 

I just like the "built in" drain tube lol...


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## SickAzzGTI (Jul 10, 2012)

*Just a little update on the install... on MY car!*

FIRST though, I had to buy one of these... the crankcase breather elbow! Mine was broken at the "reducer" portion, making it where ONLY a 1 1/2" line could fit it! lol... I obviously needed the "stock" 3/4" line. So a trip to the local "V'dub Store" and 36 bucks later, this is what I was holding!










^ STUPID P.O.S.! lol... Do yourself a favor and get the METAL, AN fitting one from 034 Motorsports or whoever it is! (I'm too poor!) :laugh:





































^^ As you can see, it had to be tilted some to clear the hood :banghead: (another reason to use a 90 on TOP!!!!) I'm going to have to find a new mounting location... so it's straight up and down! I think I want to either put it by the rad support or up on the firewall somewhere. That way it's kinda hidden as well! 

I mean, it's not a HUGE deal... so, it'll suffice for the moment! 

Let yall know what I catch! opcorn:


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## SickAzzGTI (Jul 10, 2012)

Here's some BETTER install photos... it's more "incognito" and hidden. I like it MUCH better at this location and due to the SHORT inlet hose I ran, I'm sure my engine is thanking me as well! 

Catching oil "sludge" (n' water) too! 
























































Enjoy! :wave:


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## lewp91 (May 9, 2011)

good thread, looking at the last pic though, it looks like it would be very easy to t in the cam cover fitting instead of running that to atmosphere?


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## SickAzzGTI (Jul 10, 2012)

lewp91 said:


> good thread, looking at the last pic though, it looks like it would be very easy to t in the cam cover fitting instead of running that to atmosphere?


Yes it would.... as it literally runs right by the VC! I LOVE where I mounted it, though I do plan to clean up HOW it mounts eventually, because a bunch of hose clamps don't look the greatest! (But it DOES work!)

And I may end up T'n the VC in eventually, I just couldn't find a big enough T fitting at the time of installing/building it! Hell, my hardware store didn't even have a 3/4" 90!!! Lol... or else I would be using THAT to go into the TIP instead of the original "hockey puck". 

But I have very high crankcase pressure and the VC doesn't put out too much of a smell... this helped DRAMATICALLY w/ a smoking issue I was having after doing the "ultimate delete"...

:thumbup: :beer:


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Some constant tension clamps like what your radiator hoses use may look better. Mcmaster sells them.

You could also sleeve the whole thing in the appropriate kind of tech flex


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

Get ready for a grime filled engine bay w/ that filter on the VC. I'm an authority on dirty engine bays, I have the single grimiest bay in the 1.8t forum bar none.


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## SickAzzGTI (Jul 10, 2012)

groggory said:


> Some constant tension clamps like what your radiator hoses use may look better. Mcmaster sells them.
> 
> You could also sleeve the whole thing in the appropriate kind of tech flex


Preciate the info... may try that when I get some extra change!



screwball said:


> Get ready for a grime filled engine bay w/ that filter on the VC. I'm an authority on dirty engine bays, I have the single grimiest bay in the 1.8t forum bar none.


LOL! I'm not too worried about a dirty engine bay, she's def not a show car by ANY MEANS! This is my track car/weekend warrior....


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

looks pretty awful.

why not spend 20$ and buy a tap and tap the holes you drill for the threads of the hose barbs.

BTW, NO hardware store has AN fittings. You did not even use an AN fitting.

What was the point of going to ebay? Just to buy an aluminum can with holes that you epoxy shut??

I would not want my engine and turbo to intake anything from that can. That steel crap, or parts of it, can make its way down the hose....


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## Alec's TT (Jan 28, 2013)

This is awesome! I have the red one laying around. I was gonna throw it out this weekend but now i may just try this!!!


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## thorton0 (Jan 7, 2012)

i like it. i probably will not do things quite the same way, but you have inspired me.


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## SickAzzGTI (Jul 10, 2012)

Get er done then! 

And hey "guy"... no one said u had to go out n do it, don't get your panties in a bunch! :laugh:


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## unplugged92 (Jul 13, 2012)

best catch can write up i've seen :thumbup:


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## SickAzzGTI (Jul 10, 2012)

unplugged92 said:


> best catch can write up i've seen :thumbup:


I appreciate it man... 

... don't listen to EVERYONE on here, as they think if it doesn't cost your arm and leg, then it ain't worth a crap!

Can works absolutely FINE for me, no problems whatsoever! (And catches PLENTY of "sludge" and water too!) I couldn't find a write up that didn't REQUIRE welding aluminum or spending an ass ton of money, so I went my own route! It worked and still is, so I figured I would share it with the community!

:beer:


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Instead of using JB WELD, I'd rather just drill/tap it for whatever size you need.

In the end all catch can set ups are highly overpriced, so many people were running gatorade bottles or the like for years without major issues. Some people just vent them to the ground


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## SickAzzGTI (Jul 10, 2012)

18T_BT said:


> Instead of using JB WELD, I'd rather just drill/tap it for whatever size you need.
> 
> In the end all catch can set ups are highly overpriced, so many people were running gatorade bottles or the like for years without major issues. Some people just vent them to the ground


Yes... u could easily use the tap as u mentioned. I, on the other hand, couldn't find a 1" tap ANYWHERE, other than a pipe tap online, but it didn't have the same threads. Even if I DID find the correct size tap, I wouldn't want JUST a thread or two holding my fittings in place (considering the outer walls of the said can are pretty damn thin). Now, for the top (which was MUCH thicker) it could have worked... or say, a thicker can of your choice! 

MOST of this was readily available to me and I just used what I had.... those brass fittings tapped into the hole TIGHT as hell! (To the point I couldn't even turn them anymore!) It's not like the JB WELD is holding those barbs in, it's merely "sealing the deal" (no pun intended), so that it doesn't leak air and pulls a perfect vacuum from the TIP!

I AM however contemplating whether or not to keep using that hockey puck, or replacing it w/ a 3/4" 90! I just keep reading mixed reviews on keeping it or ditching it!


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## MNShortBus (Mar 14, 2008)

Nothing about this catch can looks correct to me... 

First, you have a filter on the valve cover which opens the loop for the non-vented way you have the catch can setup. 

Second, the can is virtually doing nothing with the in and out ports right next to each other. There needs to be an internal pipe, so to speak, that leads the inlet air down to the bottom and then giving it a change to be filtered on its way up to the exit.


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

For those interested in learning about crank case vent systems and catch cans...

http://www.allanglesdesign.com/portals/0/BlogFiles/CCV_Bible.pdf


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## SickAzzGTI (Jul 10, 2012)

MNShortBus said:


> Nothing about this catch can looks correct to me...
> 
> First, you have a filter on the valve cover which opens the loop for the non-vented way you have the catch can setup.
> 
> Second, the can is virtually doing nothing with the in and out ports right next to each other. There needs to be an internal pipe, so to speak, that leads the inlet air down to the bottom and then giving it a change to be filtered on its way up to the exit.


Lol... just because the valve cover is venting to the atmosphere doesn't have ANYTHING to do with the catch can and it's purpose! Even tho I do plan to T it in EVENTUALLY. 

Second, the can does PLENTY by pulling (TIP vacuum) EXCESSIVE crankcase pressure from my crankcase AND by catching quite a bit of sludge/H20. Essentially why i built it, because i was having a minor smokin issue after the ultimate delete. You DO KNOW that most catch cans gather "condensation" on the baffling (or even JUST the walls of the can) too right? The inlet runs RIGHT INTO the baffling thru the side and then exits out of the top, clean as a whistle! Again, no one is FORCING you to read this, much less make one... 

I would go and take pics of the inlet hose, compared to the outlet... but that's a waste of time considering I really don't care what u think. Haha... I'm just glad I could help some people out, as I did myself! 

U can continue to post if u like and if it makes u feel good or something? But you'll just be ignored by ME... that is unless you have something relevant to say. Till then, good day sir!


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## MNShortBus (Mar 14, 2008)

SickAzzGTI said:


> Lol... just because the valve cover is venting to the atmosphere doesn't have ANYTHING to do with the catch can and it's purpose! Even tho I do plan to T it in EVENTUALLY.
> 
> Second, the can does PLENTY by pulling (TIP vacuum) EXCESSIVE crankcase pressure from my crankcase AND by catching quite a bit of sludge/H20. Essentially why i built it, because i was having a minor smokin issue after the ultimate delete. You DO KNOW that most catch cans gather "condensation" on the baffling (or even JUST the walls of the can) too right? The inlet runs RIGHT INTO the baffling thru the side and then exits out of the top, clean as a whistle! Again, no one is FORCING you to read this, much less make one...
> 
> ...


Wasn't putting you down or anything but you need to learn a few things about catch cans before you try and make one. My POINT was there isn't enough travel for the gases in the can, they pretty much go in and out without actually going though that steel wool. The fittings are right next to each other! 

And it does make me feel good because hopefully people see my post and don't make the same mistake. But hey, its your car.:facepalm:


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

propaine tank, drill n tap with brass fittings = easy :beer:


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## SickAzzGTI (Jul 10, 2012)

MNShortBus said:


> Wasn't putting you down or anything but you need to learn a few things about catch cans before you try and make one. My POINT was there isn't enough travel for the gases in the can, they pretty much go in and out without actually going though that steel wool. The fittings are right next to each other!
> 
> And it does make me feel good because hopefully people see my post and don't make the same mistake. But hey, its your car.:facepalm:


My point was "short bus".... :laugh:

Obviously I GET what you were saying... but this can is effective in MY CASE and can be in several others. Sorry, I don't keep secrets! 

Here's something about an "RX CAN" that I found, explaining what your _*babbling*_ about....

"There are several factors that come into play to effectively remove & trap oil mist/vapors from the PCV flow.

1. Condensation

This is the most effective, and how most cans work (even an empty beer can will catch a good amount of oil of plumbed inline).

The vapors traveling through the can make contact with the outer (cooling) surface and the oil is condensed to droplets where they fall to the bottom of the can and are trapped for removal.
Slowing the velocity of the flow in a large enough chamber to prevent these droplets from being carried through the can and into the intake manifold.
The distance from the inlet to outlet of the RX can is nearly 9” where most cans are 1-1 1/2” which allows for oil pull-through as a good amount of the vapors just take the path of least resistance without a chance to cool, condense, and trap the oil droplets.
The larger of the Billet filter media cans works the best of that style with the smallest being the least effective due to the lack of area to allow the flow to slow enough for the droplets to fall out of suspension.
Lastly come the Ebay and other off-brands that are nothing more than an empty can wit 2 fittings attached. These WILL catch oil, but most comes in and right out the outlet, and the home depot/lowes air compressor plastic devices. They will again catch oil, but let far to much through.

The RX can has a perforated dispersion tune running down the center from the inlet that disperses the gasses to contact the most possible cooling/condensing surface, a diverter cylinder to further direct the vapors through filter media into the cooling chamber and out the center chamber and away from the outlet, then it is large enough in area (nearly 1 qt) to allow the flow to slow enough to drop out of suspension, it then flows around an internal disc baffle system giving it one more surface to contact and cool and forces it to contact the outer cooling surface evenly before exiting through and integrated poly check valve to prevent any reversion.

*Does that mean these other cans are junk? Absolutely not! Most are extremely high quality in construction & appearance, and DO catch most of the oil, so they should all be considered as good choices over nothing at all, and will prevent most of the issues oil in the intake air charge cause. So weigh the price and your goals in making your choice.*

*The RX can requires NO disassembly to clean. The RX has a easy drain valve on the bottom and a remote 1' long drain hose to zip tie in place so you can simply put a drain pan under the car to catch it. No mess, No dis-assembly, and no internal cleaning needed ever."*

Read the OP... if you got the money or access to build/buy a GREAT catch can, go for it! But for broke mugs like ME, this can works perfect and didn't cost a PENNY over $40! Get with it man, stop hating, start congratulating! :laugh:


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## JBlue20th (Mar 22, 2011)

*Close the loop!*

Bringing this one back from the dead....

I must agree with MNShortBus on one point: Having the VC vented to atmosphere is 99% the same as having the crankcase vented to atmosphere. Here's why: If you pull your VC and look all at the middle forward part of the head, you'll notice a hole big enough to stick your thumb in. This is the major valvetrain oil drain that allows oil to drain directly back to the crankcase. So, as you're pulling air from the crankcase via the PCV, instead of pulling a vacuum and decreasing pumping losses, etc., you're just pulling fresh (and in Hampton, VA, VERY HUMID) air all the way through the motor. This is probably why you're seeing a lot of water in your can. I'd venture to say you'd be better off just capping the VC vent and letting the PCV pull everything, at least better off than breathing straight to atmosphere. 

As far as the can goes, the baffling is a GREAT cheap idea. The longer the path the air has to travel and the more turns the air has to make through the can, the more effective the can will be in catching stuff. 

If you ever see a blue 20th with "20 GTI" plates running around Hampton Roads, that's me! :beer:


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Anyone realize that if this had been posted in the MK4 section all you'd hear is 

MOAR PICS OF GIRL!

I'm so proud of the tech section


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## JBlue20th (Mar 22, 2011)

dmvdub said:


> anyone realize that if this had been posted in the mk4 section all you'd hear is
> 
> moar pics of girl!
> 
> I'm so proud of the tech section :d


lol, truth!


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## unplugged92 (Jul 13, 2012)

mk4 forum FTL


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

speed51133! said:


> looks pretty awful.
> 
> why not spend 20$ and buy a tap and tap the holes you drill for the threads of the hose barbs.
> 
> ...


Agreed. Not only that, but JB weld doesnt last long up against heat and oil. I know this from experience. Ill be surprised if it holds up leak free for more than a month or so. Not trying to kick tires, but it really does look like ass. When you suck in a chunk of JB weld or metal into your intake you might regret your choice. But Id give you a B- for effort, and a D+ for execution.


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