# Corrado under the knife Plan G60 to 1.8T



## koala_bear (Jun 18, 2001)

Hello guru's i seek ur wisdom on some things that are uncertain on my end of the soon to be 1.8T raddo every since my charger blew on me i have been itching to throw down the hammer on the G60 and introduce the corrado to a fresh







1.8T 20v, well as it so happen funds are in check and planning has begun so b4 i go out on my shopping spree i would like to get prepared. This is what i have re-searched so far and need a bit more input what I am missing.
THE CAR: 1991 G60 ( charger blown )

























THE PLAN:
Motor:
-1.8T 20v
Engine Code BAM = Audi TT ( 225 HP) ( Larger injectors , better fuel management / program and a bigger K04 Turbo over the K03 or K03 Sport ( aka Engine code BEA, AMU ).
or
Engine code: AWP Which is most common on newer 02'+ 1.8T Jetta / GTi's 180HP motor and more widely available not to mention cheaper to purchase is maybe a better option for most like myself.
( chart listed below for more info about engine codes )
-New engine mounts (solid motor mount ?) / tranny mount (probably poly urethane mounts) 
-Use G60 control arms? or do i have to swap to VR6 ? thought they were the same on corrado's ?
-More than likely do water pump / timing belt while motor out
-Updated green coolant sensor on the right side of the motor 
(trans side)
-Audi TT intake ?
-Inter-cooler ( most likely use the stock G60 or stock 1.8T ( fits under bumper) ? ( possibly a ebay custom FMIC ?)
Found a FMIC that will fit with the least amount of cutting / butchery








Or... a bit more expensive but bigger and less piping worries.
http://www.ctsturbo.com/products/Kinetic_MK4_GOLF_JETTA_1_8T_FMIC_Kit-151-7.html








apparently its a plug and play with minimal cutting to the re-bar or bumper. So Clay has told me ! and we all know CLay is always right :-D

-Stock G60 tranny
-VR6 clutch and pressure plate with a 14ftlbs flywheel
-Custom piping for turbo / inter-cooler (not needed with the FMIC kit from CTS)
-ECU / wiring harness = http://www.qpeng.com/products/....html
or 
wiring it up the old fashion way with the original ce2
-instrument cluster? Apprently you can use the same cluster ( G60 ) with slight mod ( update tach from VR6 ? )
5 bolt conversion whats needed?:
(have G60 coil-overs ready so i would rather not swap entire struts from VR6)
-VR6 Front hubs/ knuckles / CV Joints from VR6
-VR6 Front Brakes ( rotors / calipers & carriers / lines / pads )
-VR6 Rear ( spindles(do not need apparently) / rotors / calipers / lines / pads / handbrake cables? )
- Brake Master / slave / booster keep the G60 ? or need to be replaced for the VR6 Brakes?
-5x100 wheels
Interior:
The AWP(newer Mk4 GTi) and BAM(Audi TT) engines are Drive by wire are they not?
- Pedal replacements? or just throw in and cut the acceleration Pedal( butchery involved?) and replace the drive by wiring / equipment ?
on a slight budget on this build for now but i would like to get the OEM things done first and get it running correctly with minimal short cuts, any info or help on what else i might be missing in the parts / to do list please feel free to add







(







is a given )
The chart: http://myweb.whitman.syr.edu/srotblat/swap/









P.S Swap updates will commence.









_Modified by koala_bear at 10:11 AM 4-5-2009_

_Modified by koala_bear at 9:38 AM 4-22-2009_

_Modified by koala_bear at 9:39 AM 4-22-2009_


_Modified by koala_bear at 9:40 AM 4-22-2009_


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: Corrado under the knife Plan G60 to 1.8T (koala_bear)*

id get any motor you can, more or less they are all the same. id leave 4 lug unless you have a reason not to. 
wiring can do full DBW harness
DBW harness with immo defeat chip (no key or cluster needed)
both need to mount gas pedal
AEB wiring
Reflex tuning kit
Lugtronics PnP standalone
wire in standalone.


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## koala_bear (Jun 18, 2001)

*Re: Corrado under the knife Plan G60 to 1.8T (bonesaw)*

DBW harness?


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## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *koala_bear* »_
-ECU / wiring harness = http://www.qpeng.com/products/....html
or 
wiring it up the old fashion way with the original ce2


Seems like a simple choice....do you want the OEM ECU or do you want standalone?
DBW = Drive By Wire


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## koala_bear (Jun 18, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (Boostin20v)*

well the cheapest alternative is the best one? i would rather keep anything OEM untill i wanna upgrade the turbo it all depends which motor i get ultimately i suppose if its the AWP it will be the stand alone most likely for more power in the future but if its the BAM TT motor i might as well keep the original ECU and management i think all i want is a reliable 200WHP


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## jettaboy_gtx (Apr 12, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (koala_bear)*


_Quote, originally posted by *koala_bear* »_well the cheapest alternative is the best one? i would rather keep anything OEM untill i wanna upgrade the turbo it all depends which motor i get ultimately i suppose if its the AWP it will be the stand alone most likely for more power in the future but if its the BAM TT motor i might as well keep the original ECU and management i think all i want is a reliable 200WHP

i have a harness for sale that would make the 1.8T swap (aww/awp) PnP, all you need is immo defeated ECU...i do have somone interested right now, but if you are interesed IM me. i see you are local to me too, i could even help you build a harness if you decide use OEM ECU for a small fee








as for reliable 200whp, thats pretty much what chipped AWP/AWW will make with exhaust/intake...and will be much more reliable then any stand alone.
Persoanlly i preffer using stock ECUs especially with all the software options out there, even if you want more power and big turbo later....


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## jettaboy_gtx (Apr 12, 2003)

*Re: Corrado under the knife Plan G60 to 1.8T (koala_bear)*


_Quote »_
THE PLAN:
-New engine mounts (solid motor mount ?) / tranny mount (probably poly urethane mounts) 
-Use G60 control arms? or do i have to swap to VR6 ? thought they were the same on corrado's ?


Probably the best combo would be solid front, some kind os ply trany mount, and MK2 non hydro rear mount with poly inserts.
Or switch to corrado vr/MK3 and use MK3 mounts with poly inserts.
no need to change controll arms unles you want to go to PLSU suspension (VR has a wider stance) but then you need VR spindles and VR axles since they are longer.

_Quote »_
-Audi TT intake ?
-Inter-cooler ( most likely use the stock G60 or stock 1.8T ( fits under bumper) ? ( possibly a ebay custom FMIC ?)


TT inatke not needed at all, but might simplify the piping a bit.
While stock intercooler will work you can find decent FMICs for pretty cheap that are MUCH better than stock and will work great for moderate power of a chipped 1.8T.

_Quote »_
wiring it up the old fashion way with the original ce2
-instrument cluster? Apprently you can use the same cluster ( G60 ) with slight mod ( update tach from VR6 ? )


I like doing these swaps with oem ECU chipped with immobilizer defeat (if on budget there is REVO ECUs always for sale on FI forums for around $400 or so, they are usually stg 3 for big turbos but that wil work to because you can reflash it to STG 2 for free since all idefeat programs are same price...i've done it before) and just wiring everything back to stock CE2 fuse box...works perfect.

_Quote »_
5 bolt conversion whats needed?:
(have G60 coil-overs ready so i would rather not swap entire struts from VR6)
-VR6 Front hubs/ knuckles / CV Joints from VR6
-VR6 Front Brakes ( rotors / calipers & carriers / lines / pads )
-VR6 Rear ( spindles(do not need apparently) / rotors / calipers / lines / pads / handbrake cables? )
- Brake Master / slave / booster keep the G60 ? or need to be replaced for the VR6 Brakes?
-5x100 wheels


5 bolt conversion not need unless you really want to do it to ose the wheel you want or something
Cheapest and easiest way to do it would be to just press in VR hubs into G60 spindles and redrill G60 rotors to 5x100, and use VR outer CV joints....or use VR rotors and vr calipers/carriers and machine 2.5mm of the carriers to get correct offset.
for the rear all yu need is the VR 5 bolt rotors, everything else is the same.
No need to replace master cyl...unless your ABS isnt working and you want to replace that or get rid of the ABS...

_Quote »_
Interior:
The AWP(newer Mk4 GTi) and BAM(Audi TT) engines are Drive by wire are they not?
- Pedal replacements? or just throw in and cut the acceleration Pedal( butchery involved?) and replace the drive by wiring / equipment ?


DBW is easy, the DBW pedal is a separate unit and all you need to do is make bracket for it on your corrado pedal assembly and run few wires to it....


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## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *koala_bear* »_well the cheapest alternative is the best one? i would rather keep anything OEM untill i wanna upgrade the turbo it all depends which motor i get ultimately i suppose if its the AWP it will be the stand alone most likely for more power in the future but if its the BAM TT motor i might as well keep the original ECU and management i think all i want is a reliable 200WHP


That makes no sense. Either motor will support ECU upgrades for over 1000cc injectors. The AWP ECU is in no way limited compared to the BAM ECU.


_Modified by Boostin20v at 9:26 AM 4-7-2009_


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## koala_bear (Jun 18, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (Boostin20v)*

I've read somewhere the why the BAM motor has 225hp stock is because of the management system and injectors, K04 turbo, then again the k04 turbo alone should up the hp from 180hp to 225hp, thanks for the info btw great help. I am scouring the globe for a BAM engine ATM


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## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*FV-QR*

Certainly, they don't have the same spec hardware stock. The point is that with an upgraded turbo neither ECU provides a benefit over the other.


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## koala_bear (Jun 18, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (Boostin20v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Boostin20v* »_Certainly, they don't have the same spec hardware stock. The point is that with an upgraded turbo neither ECU provides a benefit over the other.

yeah so its a better package OEM deal with the BAM engine over the AWP isn't it ? i mean replacing or modifying the ECU / Injectors and turbo would cost a lot more then just getting the BAM engine which already has these upgrades ?


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