# New Audio Install MKV Jetta (complete system overhaul)!



## lagamm (Mar 25, 2006)

Starting a new install on my 2006 2.0T Jetta (MKV).
Install consists of:
Sub: (1) JL Audio 10W7 in ported box. 
Speakers: Fronts = JL Audio XR 3-ways components. 
Rear = Alpine Type R 2-way components.
Amps: JL audio 500/1 (Sub) & 
300/4 (components).
HU: Kenwood Excelon kdc-x990 (single Din) + 10 disc changer
Other Stuff:
25 farad Cap
Lots of 16awg speaker wire & 4awg power/ground
Street Wires Zero Noise 7 RCA cable (4 channel & 2 channels)
Lots of Dynomat Extreme.
Custom built amp rack! (Simple one)

This install is nothing crazy! I plan on removing front and rear seats and all trim and door panels. I’m dynomatting the trunk and all the doors. Most likely I am going to mount the front crossover (huge) and rears under the passenger seat. Another possible location for the fronts X-overs are in the glove box and the rears in trunk. We shall see how the wiring goes. I have over 180feet of 16awg stinger speaker wire so I should have enough to route it anyway.
I’m planning on taking lots & lots of pics and post a more complete DIY (total system overhaul). The reason I am starting this thread now is if anyone has any requests for me to concentrate on something in an install. Like a particular wire routing or like the fact I have to cut a 3.5” hole in my front doors to fit my JL 4” speakers.
Any suggestions please post up! Project will hopefully be 80-100% complete this weekend (depending on how much my wife yells at me about priorities!!!)
Also I hope my 12 point triple square bit set gets here by Friday so I can take the seats out.


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## bcramer v2.0 (Mar 19, 2008)

*Re: New Audio Install MKV Jetta (complete system overhaul)! (lagamm)*

Here are my suggestions:
1. Return the Type R components to where ever you bought them as they will only draw the sound stage behind you. 
2. Return the 25 farad capacitor to where ever you bought it. If you need more power, you need more power a capacitor won't do that...look into "The Big Three."
3. I would have looked into other sound dampening products before purchasing Dynomat. Specifically Second Skin and RAAMmat. 
4. I know that some people have run into noise issues when putting their crossovers under the front seats. You do not want to put them near anything that is carrying an electrical current...
I think that's all I've got for now. Please do take lots of pictures and let us know how things go.


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## lagamm (Mar 25, 2006)

*Re: New Audio Install MKV Jetta (bcramer v2.0)*

No arguing but, I really not asking anyone to critic my setup. I have been installing systems for about 20 years now and know what I like.
•	Alpine Type R are staying. Regardless what people say what car stereos are supposed to sound like, I like a strong rear fill. It is what I like and as for pulling the sound back, well that’s what fade is for. I mostly fade about ¾ forward anyway. So rear fill is important to me! Also the highs on the JL s should be allot sharper then the silk dome “R” tweets. 
•	I know what the big three are. The 25 farad cap I got really cheap off a friend and it is more of a cool looking distribution block for me that has some nice looking blue LEDs and voltage/amp readouts. The cap I actually paid less than the distribution block I was going to get.
•	Dynomat Extreme 39 square feet for $120. Cant beat it sorry to say! I have used other stuff before and always go back to the Dynomat extreme.
•	As for x-overs under the passenger seat should not be a problem since there is nothing significantly electrical underneath it. The driver seat is another story!

Like I said before this install is nothing crazy. Keeping it mostly stock looking and having the sub in a box helps out if I need the trunk I can just remove it.

Just finished the amp rack that will be behind the rear seats. Cutting the MDF speaker rings for midrange mounting tonight. 
Will most likely be posting pics on Monday.


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## chilipad (Jan 6, 2007)

Good luck with this project. I've changed the set-up in my Rabbit 3 times now and still not quite happy with the sound. In my last attempt I put a 10 degree angle on the mdf spacers I made to point my JL 6.5's up towards my ears. I also made the spacers as thick as possible to get as close to the door panel as you can without touching. This took a couple tries to get right ( I can remove and install my door panel now in about 5 minutes, first time was an hour). It made a huge difference. I have the tweeters in the stock mid-position. You shouldn't have the sound stage issues with 3-ways though. I think the Dyna-mat will help alot. That's my next step. The biggest problem you'll have is getting the speaker wires into the door. They have these stupid plastic plugs in there that I didn't want to screw around with. Right now I just have the wire going under the door panel. And yes it looks like crap. I think I'll use the factory wires and see if there's any loss in SQ. Should be ok for my set-up. Using JL 300/4 with the rear bridged to drive a small JL sub in a sealed box. Next purchase will be the Stealthbox. Post lots of pics! By the way how are you cutting the holes for the mids?


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## lagamm (Mar 25, 2006)

*Re: (chilipad)*

angle on the spacers are a good idea. To bad I just finish cutting all 8 of them. I'm useing [email protected] 3/4" mdf rings for each speaker for the 6.5's
The mids I bought a 3.5" hole saw and plan on using that.
If there is room I am going to try to cut some tupperware and try to seal the back of the speaker if possible and only if I take the outer door sheet metal off.
The tweeter I already mounted in stock location, They fit nice once i ripped out all the stock stuff and I hot glued them in. 
the tweeters in the rears I do not like so I am going to use a 2" hole saw to cut a hole and flush mount them that way. 
The wiring I plan on going through the harness. i am going to drill out some enpty slots to run the wire through. (saw this done in another thread) Depending on how hard it is to route I might take the outer door sheet metal off. Looks like it will take 10 min to do instead of spending an hour try to phish the wire through.


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## chilipad (Jan 6, 2007)

Are you cutting metal with that hole saw? I assume you're mounting the mids on the door panel like the stock mids.


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## gsxrbusa1 (Jan 10, 2008)

why didnt you go with a 13w7? or maybe a 12?


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## chilipad (Jan 6, 2007)

Update?


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## lagamm (Mar 25, 2006)

*Re: (chilipad)*

I am 3/4 the way through. I have lots of pics. 
Will post when done.
Did something stupid though. I had to turn on My ignition several times to Rool up/down windows (check for interference) and to move the drivers set fwd/back to remove it. I did this while some airbags and dash was apart. Now I am getting airbag fault code and My REVO STAGE1 is GONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It is only boosting stock levels. It this because of the air bag fault and once that is cleared the revo will work as before or is it because I disconnected power and the ECU reset itself?????
I'm going to contact NA Motorsports and see if they can help out. 

I'll be posting pictures tomorrow some time but the install is not yet done. I'm driving the car with 3 door panels off>


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## lagamm (Mar 25, 2006)

*Re: (gsxrbusa1)*

10" is my fav size. I tried 12's and like the punchiness of the 10's better. also I'm not trying for crazy bass. I just want a balance sytem, but from what I here the 10" W7 with the 500/1 amp suprising loud. Espeacally sice I have it ported.


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## lagamm (Mar 25, 2006)

*Re: (chilipad)*

I tried the hole saw. Dont waste your time I ended up using pliers to roll the sheet metal forward and shears to cut the hole larger. Much faster and less dangerious,
The hole saw has no center to drill into to support the saw while cutting and just flies all oover the place.
Again the sheet metal is so thin there that you can easily cut it with metal shears.


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## lagamm (Mar 25, 2006)

*Re: (lagamm)*

Here are some pics 
Taking the Interior apart. I highly recommend a Shop Manual.

















JL Bass link installed for stock look








JL tweets in stock location. They snapped in nicely and I secured w/hot glue


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## lagamm (Mar 25, 2006)

*Re: (lagamm)*

Stock 4" speak next to mounted JL 4" 








MY SUB 10W7








Big hole I put into door for 4" jl speaker fit








Door Jam, This is how you run new wires but what a PITA!


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## lagamm (Mar 25, 2006)

*Re: (lagamm)*

Door all dynomatted = 10,000 cuts on your finger and hand!








add a curcuit! A41 slot!








New HU install minus the trim ring which needed to be re-painted for gloss balck to Krylon Ultra Flat black. Matches stock black perfect!








Crossover layout & wired!








Ground for Dist. Block/Capacitor in trunk side
























Close up pic of Capacitor I have mounted in "Hidden" Compartment


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## lagamm (Mar 25, 2006)

*Re: (lagamm)*

MDF rings for front doors








Amp Rack Mounting








Amps being wired up!








Amp rack will look like when done (not finished wiring yet)










_Modified by lagamm at 3:42 PM 4-23-2008_


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## lagamm (Mar 25, 2006)

when the install is complete I'll post some more pics
If anyone has any questions about anything please post!


_Modified by lagamm at 4:19 PM 4-23-2008_


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## chilipad (Jan 6, 2007)

Wow you really went all out on those doors. I still can't tell from the pics how the wires go through the plug. Just curious why you didn't remove the stock x-overs not that it really matters. Is that circuit 41a switched? I originally used the cig lighter for switched power assuming it would be on in acc mode. Wrong. It only works in the "on" position. I ended up wiring to main power. This means system is always on so it reminds me to remove the faceplate every time I park, which is ok. I don't understand why they would do that. I love my car but if I met the guy that designed the sound system in this car I'd smack him in the head. Twice. Anyhow nice work. Post some more pics. Did you get your airbag/revo problem fixed?


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## lagamm (Mar 25, 2006)

*Re: (chilipad)*

The wires physically go through the harness. Another post I saw someone drill hole through the spare/empty slots in the harness and run the wires through. I did the same!!! Warning though, it takes some time and allot of patience.
Stock X overs- I didnt touch! Not even sure where they are!! 
41A is a spare slot this is ignition switched.
Airbag/Revo will be fixed this friday when I drive down to NA Motorsports. I'm also picking up the SPS unit so this will not happen again.


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## dubnpain (Dec 5, 2006)

*Re: (lagamm)*

wow man. this is looking fantastic. im excited to see the finished product. i didnt want to touch my stock stereo but now im tempted.


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## lagamm (Mar 25, 2006)

*Re: (dubnpain)*

Here is a little DIY of how I did my system.

Step 1: 
Plan out everything! Determine your sound goals and how much work you want to put into everything. Research equipment and have a rough budget in order to know the kind of gear you are going to get (IE California profile amp vs. JL amp). Also the type of music you listen too is important. For me it is hard because I listen to everything. Mostly rock, classic rock, Hip-hop, House, some techno, Jazz and lately am loving Broadway Music. Go figure! So for me it is really hard to build a balance system. So tuning on the fly especially for bass is a must for me.
My specific goals were: 
•	SQ 1st and most important for my system.
•	Keep stock look as much as possible (speakers)
•	One sub.
•	Good rear fill
•	Strong mids
•	Be able to show off amps but able to use truck space if needed.
•	Fairly high budget
•	New I really wanted to try JL Audio stuff so I looked at there amps 1st & settled on the 300/4 for speakers and the 500/1 for subs.
•	Next I pick out the speakers and since our Jetta has 3-way already I new the JL XR 3-ways were perfect and they matched the amp wattage requirements. The rear door speakers were harder and if I had to do it again I would not have gone with rear components. That said I got a really good deal on Alpine type R’s and their silk dome tweets @ -6db setting will be allot milder than the JL tweets which I have @ -3db. 
•	Single din HU Audiophile grade D/A converters. Was going to get eclipse HU but the Kenwood Excelon’s are really nice and ended up getting the KDC-X990 which has dual high end D/A converters. Gives the ability to have separate digital processing to the front and rear channels (ie, eq). It also improves channel separation sharply.
Step 2 
Draw some rough diagrams and wire routings on paper. I drew the amp rack and how I wanted it NOTE*** I drew and built 5 different amp racks before I settled on the simplest one that I am using now!
Step 3 
Make parts & tool list of thing you are going to need.
•	Wire ties, Battery terminals, fuses, power wire (determine correct size/length for current draw) ground wire, speaker wire (I used 180’ of 16 awg), add-a-circuit, sound deadening, MDF, interconnects, fuse block or distribution block (I’m using a 25 farad cap I got for $65 used on a sound forum, for my distribution block.)
•	Tools, Multimeter, wire strippers, triple square socket set to remove front seats>>
•	MAKE SURE YOU GET VW SHOP MANUAL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Step 4 
I search this forum to see how other people did things. Hoping it would save time in the long run. It did!
NOW THE REAL WORK BEGINS! (Note some items like amp rack and MDF speaker mounting rings were fabbed up before the install)
Step 5
Got permission from my wife, 4 yr old, 6 month old to spend 4 days on & off to do this project.
Step 6 
Gutted the interior (including all stock speakers). This is where you will need the VW Shop manual to tell you what order to take everything out and where the screws all are. You most likely will break something if you don’t use the manual. 
Step7
Laid out all the wiring in the general run locations and planned out the x-over locations and wire routing. (This is the only thing I was unsure of till I ripped everything out.)
Step 8 
Used Pliers and metal shears to enlarge the door hole for 4” JL speaker
Step 9 
Re-wired and Dynomatted all doors & the trunk (took a long time & patience)
Step 10 
Wired crossovers, power wire to batt (I have DSG so I went through Clutch hole grommet.), wired trunk cap/dist block for amps. 
Step 11 
Mounted cap, and anchored amp rack to frame.
Step 12 
Wired HU using Metra Harness and add-a-circuit. Added bass boost remote for factory look.
Step 13
Now I am all wired up. Now I installed the front door speakers (all 6 of them)
Step 14 
I installed the entire interior except rear door panels because I was running out of time and needed to make the car drivable.

Step15 
Wired up battery w/aftermarket terminals but left the fuse (70A) out of the inline fuse holder until step 17.
Step 16 
Installed amps and connected power wired.
Step 17 
Charged Cap per instructions!!!!! 
Step 18 
Set gains! 
HU volume @ ¾ 300/4 gain set to 17.3 volts output as per instruction manual playing 1 kHz test tone all sound processing off. 39 volt 500/1 output using 40 Hz test tone! Done using Fluke multimeter but later on will be using my portable oscilloscope to fine tune till actual clip for a more precise gain setting. This gets me in to the ball park right now.
Step 19
Installed and mounted sub, which is a ported 10W7 and is one of the loudest single 10” subs systems I have ever listened to.
Step 20 (not done yet)
Have to install rear speakers and door panel on the doors. I plan on doing this on the up coming weekend. Then system will be complete!!!
___________________________________________________________________
1st impressions on front speakers (JL XR 3-way) and sub (ported 10W7).
I first played the front speakers which had the tweets set at 0bd (ref lvl) and it was much to harsh. After playing allot of different music I ended up with the lowest setting of -3db which blends nicely with the 4” mid and mid bass. The mid and mid-bass are incredible. The front speaker set as a whole is stunning and the natural quality of the sound is breathtaking. Put in Moondance (Van Morrison) and the instrument clarity and detail is again breathtaking. Thank God that I do not have any induced system noise at all! The biggest complaint is the tweets can be harsh at certain times even at -3db but I new that and prefer metal dome tweeter sound over the underwhelming (IMO) silk dome type.
I played some Dave Mathews and the mid-bass in some of his songs were so strong it was crazy. The speakers handled it at full power and it was crystal clear. No distortion at all! Even at a slightly clipped signal (90% HU volume) the JL’s played super nice and I would recommend these to anyone but since I bought these 2 years ago they have been discontinued! Guess there is not allot of demand for 3-way systems!
As for the sub! Well I was torn on my decision for sub type. There are so many nice ones out there. The W7’s were out of my price range that I would pay for 1 speaker but I came upon a deal and ended up getting a brand new one for $300. Some dud bought 2 and only ended up using one because it was loud enough for him. I can see why! That one 10W7 that I am pushing 500 watts to in a ported box (to JL specs) is as loud or louder than the 2 sealed Alpine 10” type R that I was pushing with a RF Punch Power 800/2 (996watts) In an open hatchback.
This sub is insane! 
The downside for me is that I was not sure about porting it. I was told to do it and it doesn’t suffer SQ. I agree the SQ is very nice but I think I like the punch of a sealed speaker better. Might buy a seal box to compare but I will give it a while and tweek some eq setting. So the jury is out on this but overall it is too much bass for what I want. Good thing I can tune it on the fly with the remote bass link. 
I can’t wait to install my rear speakers and get some nice rear fill. I don’t like a front only sound stage and planning on running 75-85% forward fade. 
If you have any questions about any of this please ask me. I’m just looking to give back a little from the tons of helpful info I have used off this forum.


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## lagamm (Mar 25, 2006)

*Re: (lagamm)*

Update!
Finished the rear doors and the Alpine Type R’s blend in nicely with the JL’s. @-6db the alpine tweets are smooth & subtle and the 6.5”s midbass is strong. Faded 4 clicks forward you don’t notice the rears to much until you hit full volume or are sitting in the back.
For installation of the tweeters I had to use [email protected]” hole saw and cut a hole where the stock tweeter is. Mount the alpine in there. Looks good and almost stock.
Returning to the JL 10W7. I was sooo wrong about this sub. It is incredible! It just took awhile to tune the bass, gain, and rca out levels correct and to my taste. Ported this w7 gives me as strong and punchy bass as any sealed sub I have listened to. And if you decide you just want to annoy everyone, you can crank up the boost and rca output to max for some serious SPL action. 
Tomorrow I plan to take the final pics and post them


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## cbrabbit (May 22, 2007)

*Re: (lagamm)*

hope it all goes good, http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## renanmedeiros (Mar 13, 2008)

*Re: (lagamm)*

he sub is really hard? you can feel it very good inside the car? i've the w7 12 and 1000\1 , s600hx 2 way, alpine p4.150, and w205 double din. my jetta comes nest week I CANT WAIT







!!


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## ShawnC757 (Feb 2, 2008)

*Re: New Audio Install MKV Jetta (complete system overhaul)! (lagamm)*

So far so good.


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## daschrier (Oct 17, 2007)

I have some questions.
Does the stock mid magnet fit in that hole, or is the distance from the metal door skin to the door panel the 45mm of depth you need to worry about?
How much distance is there from the factory mid to the grill on the door panel?
For the woofers, are the speakers screwed onto the factory plastic bafflers, or is the whole thing one piece? Also, I've been told that the baffle is riveted to the door, is this true?
Finally, I think I've read before that the inner door skin is bolted to the outer door skin, is this correct?


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## lagamm (Mar 25, 2006)

*Re: (renanmedeiros)*


_Quote, originally posted by *renanmedeiros* »_he sub is really hard? you can feel it very good inside the car? i've the w7 12 and 1000\1 , s600hx 2 way, alpine p4.150, and w205 double din. my jetta comes nest week I CANT WAIT







!!


the 10W7 with a 500/1 amp hits really hard. I have it ported which will net you 3-4 more db's and with this sub you do not loose SQ. 
Just put it this way. Turn my 45hz bass boost all the way up. Max the RCA output and I can shake all the mirror enough that you cannot see out of them. 
Ya that out of a 10"!
Hope you like lots of bass with that 12W7 & 1000watts.
Of course if you put the seats down it hits alot harder. That said I will not drive around with my seats down.
What I did was use sewing pins to attach some of my leftover black carpet and cover the rear arm rest hole. I keep the armrest down and it net you better sound overall and if someone looks into my car they cant see my amps in the trunk. I'll post some pics to show you!


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## lagamm (Mar 25, 2006)

*Re: (daschrier)*


_Quote, originally posted by *daschrier* »_I have some questions.
Does the stock mid magnet fit in that hole, or is the distance from the metal door skin to the door panel the 45mm of depth you need to worry about?
How much distance is there from the factory mid to the grill on the door panel?
For the woofers, are the speakers screwed onto the factory plastic bafflers, or is the whole thing one piece? Also, I've been told that the baffle is riveted to the door, is this true?
Finally, I think I've read before that the inner door skin is bolted to the outer door skin, is this correct?

1. Stock 4" fits into the space between the door panel and door. There is not hole it fits through
2. not sure about the distance. I just new that the jl 4" mid, having a magnet 3x the size of the stock one was not going to fit and that I would have to make it fit.
3. Woofers are one peice that is riveted to the doors. You must drill out the rivets to remove the speakers.
4. I'm not sure what you are asking but the inner door panel have plasic pop pivets that secure it to the door plus [email protected] T30 head srews (door handlle area) and [email protected] T20 screws (bottom of front doors and side near tweeter)


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## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: (lagamm)*


_Quote, originally posted by *lagamm* »_Door all dynomatted = 10,000 cuts on your finger and hand!










These will save you from the door tourture of 10,000 cuts next time.
















Oh BTW Nice work, the only thing that makes me go







is the X-over location. Cause what happens when your realize you need to Attenuate the tweets of some other adjustment that may be housed in the x-over.


_Modified by Non_Affiliated at 10:48 PM 4-29-2008_


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## royer25 (Dec 7, 2007)

*Re: (Non_Affiliated)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Non_Affiliated* »_
Oh BTW Nice work, the only thing that makes me go







is the X-over location. Cause what happens when your realize you need to Attenuate the tweets of some other adjustment that may be housed in the x-over.
_Modified by Non_Affiliated at 10:48 PM 4-29-2008_

Remove the seats every time an adjustment is needed??
Plus those x-overs look pretty sweet, I'd mount them where they can be gawked at.


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## lagamm (Mar 25, 2006)

*Re: (royer25)*

Ill post pics later today but all you have to do to get at the x-overs is pull the seats all the way back and up. Already had to adjust them 2 times. Very easy! Trust me I thought out very carefully where I wanted them. 
I'm going to take some pics now and will post them later on today.


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## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: (lagamm)*


_Quote, originally posted by *lagamm* »_Ill post pics later today but all you have to do to get at the x-overs is pull the seats all the way back and up. Already had to adjust them 2 times. Very easy! Trust me I thought out very carefully where I wanted them. 
I'm going to take some pics now and will post them later on today.

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif It was just hard to tell without the seats in just how much clearance there was.


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## lagamm (Mar 25, 2006)

*Re: (Non_Affiliated)*

Some Final Pics
Battery all wired up. 70a fuse for the system.








HU installed








JL Bass Boost Control for my 500/1 amp
NOTE*** see the white line. I made that using a whiteout pen. There was just groove there that you could not see.








seat all the way back and up. See the pretty x-overs.









Seat in my driving position @ same angle as above.


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## lagamm (Mar 25, 2006)

*Re: (lagamm)*

amp rack
















Carpet covering the arm rest hole.








trunk








CD changer








capacitor / electrical distribution, behind cd changer








still room to put my groceries


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## 86Sir.Rocco (Oct 13, 2006)

good job.. looks great!


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## lagamm (Mar 25, 2006)

*Re: (86Sir.Rocco)*


_Quote, originally posted by *86Sir.Rocco* »_good job.. looks great!

THANK YOU!
It is not as good as I would like. Some things that I would like to have done better is to have all the wires in the trunk hidden. It would have meant more farication and a liitle more complex setup. 
The thing everyone has to remember about this install is I have exactly 4 days to do this. 2 of the days I couldnt even start till 11am. 
I put in 12-14 hours a day for 4 days straight to get this done. You see is I have a new born and a 4 year old. I work nights and my wife days. Our weekends are booked forever out. plus helping out my wife with the kids I barley have time to sit and watch a TV show. I have had all this equpment in my garage for 2 YEARS sitting there. Finally I told my wife i'm just going to do it and knew that only have limited time and had to make it drivable. Well I did it and are very happy with the SQ. Install is good but could be better.
BTW, here is a pic of my last car install. 








Alpine HU
Audiocontrol EQ
Boston Acoustic Pros (frt)
Infinity Kappa (rear)
Alpine type R 10" subs in custom fiberglass enclosures!
Rockford fosgate punch Power amps


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## FUZE (Apr 13, 2004)

Clean install http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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