# My first 1.8T Big Turbo buildup woot



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

The car, Jen's GLI, is getting lots of work done this spring, but I know you guys really only care about what's happening under the hood. Below's a list of (close to) everything goin on the car. This weekend j0hnnybmx and igotaprestent4u will be coming over to help. The motor/tranny will be pulled out of the car, and we'll be able to work easier on getting everything on. Some of this stuff may seem unnecessary to some of ya but hey...whatever. Makes us happy.








_VF Engineering Mounts_
We bought all 3 mounts together from AWE Tuning because they had the best deal on them. They offered a $25 discount when buying all 3 together. ECS does the same, but they give you a gift card. I'd rather have $25 in savings peresonally. And when you're into a big project, every lil bit adds up. Never had a problem with AWE...class act company and they def have THE best gauges on the market. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
But I'm taking these a step further. The aluminum housings are getting anodized a certain color that you'll just have to wait to see. And the color I chose I don't think will look good with red. So crazy me, decided to PAINT the urethane bushings. Wierd huh? You'd think the paint will flake off once they flex right? Went to Autozone and bought some PrepsAll and Fusion plastic paint. Let them dry and put them in a vice to squeeze em different ways and the paint is not coming off. This I believe will be another first.









These parts below, the coilpack hold down brackets, SAI block off from Integrated Engineering, and DV will also be getting anodized before reinstalled.

_Samco Coolant Hoses_
This was one of those spur of the moment things where we thought, the motor will be out, hoses will be detached...why not just replace em since it'll be sooo easy to do anyways? So, I searched high and low and by far the best price I could find was from Tekno Autohaus. Just went with the simple yet catchy black. More of a dressup item but one can argue they'll never burst apart. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Dual W/M Nozzle Kit_
With the new turbo going on (see below), I saw it fit to expand the water/meth kit to a dual nozzle setup. One nozzle will go at the outlet of the FMIC and the second will be in the new Throttle Body plate once [email protected]USRT releases it. I sourced a cheap aluminum bung to insert the first nozzle. I'll have to play around with this quite a bit after the car is running to tune it correctly.

_New Plugs_
NGK BKR8EIX's. Don R recommended I get them. Another heat range colder over the BKR7E's and he's had success with them. I trust Don.









_Head Bolts, Gaskets, Rod Bearings_
I sourced all of these from bobqzzi at QED Power. He's got about everything for engine rebuilds you can think of. This is the part that will most concern me during the build is getting the bearings in correctly. If you have any advice feel free to p/m me.
 
_Rods_
The rods we chose are from Integrated Engineering and I bought them for a couple of reasons. First, they are stock length and use the stock 19mm wrist pins. Secondly, they are a more economical rod for someone not looking to throw down more for a rod that can handle twice what my goals are. I'm very confident that these will be able to handle the power goals of this car. They are precisely machined and a bitch to pull apart but hey...that's a good thing. I'll probably be the first person with live experience of these. What I mean by that is one of the first that is regularly on the forums to post about em. The only people I've heard have been friends of regular users. They come with ARP2000 bolts and lube...always a good thing.









_Timing Belt Kit_







This is actually gonna put a hurting on the bigger advertisers around here, but you guys won't believe this one. I bought this timing belt kit for just under $200 shipped from Metal Man Parts. All the parts are OEM and the same part #'s you'll find in everyone else's kit. It comes with the stretch bolts too. It just lacks a thermostat, however I believe the owner told me he could source those for the kit as well. I just picked up one from ECS as well as some coolant. I'm glad I found this when I did...saved about $60 over the norm.









_Clutch & Turbo Kit_
I opted for the Spec Stage 3 + clutch kit with 16lb steel flywheel. My buddy igotaprestent4u has this installed on his O2M and loves it, so that was convincing enough (he's got APR Stg3+







). This as well as the GT2871R .64 turbo kit was sourced from Arnold at PagParts. The turbo kit is 100% complete! Inlet pipe (not shown), downpipe, turbo, oil/coolant lines, fittings, fuel pump, injectors, HPC coated manifold, nuts bolts gaskets. Pretty much it can be straight up installed and the car will run as long as your software permits. I'll be tuning the GIAC X+ file since GT-ER had great success with the same exact kit. With the added help of water/meth, we should be looking pretty healthy.
     
_Intercooler_
After a bunch of thought and time passing by, I decided to once again go custom. I also found another killer deal I couldn't pass up. My last FMIC was an eBay core, and it performed great considering we made all that power. It puts away the myth that ANYTHING from eBay is poor quality. So, I found a new seller called "just-intercoolers" that sells not only quality bar/plate cores for cheap, but also aluminum pipe. I got a 29x9x3 core, 12 aluminum pipes of my choice size and bend, 12 couplers (they're blue so I'm not using them but they came with the pipe kit), and 24 T-bolt clamps also of my choice in size, all for $340 shipped.







Tell me that's not a deal! I got my black couplers from Silicone Intakes and then the MAP sensor flange from 42 Draft Designs. Going custom def takes more time and effort, but the end result is what I want to see, not someone else's idea of a perfect fit.
      
_Exhaust_
We have a BT downpipe already, so I decided that the 42 Draft Designs catback would be best to add to it. I've heard clips and I absolutely love the sound! Once that comes in I'll work on mating it to the downpipe.
Anyone has any questions or advice for me...specially on the rod install part let me know. I'm most worried about the clearances with the bearings.









_Modified by SAVwKO at 1:01 AM 3-7-2007_


_Modified by SAVwKO at 8:37 AM 4-24-2007_


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## Don R (Oct 4, 2002)

Everything seems great! One gripe I have is the ECS pulley.


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (Don R)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Don R* »_Everything seems great! One gripe I have is the ECS pulley.

Lol the other 2 are on right now. I'm gonna get ATLEAST that one anodized...which is why it snuck in on a picture.


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## Don R (Oct 4, 2002)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_
Lol the other 2 are on right now. I'm gonna get ATLEAST that one anodized...which is why it snuck in on a picture.









The ECS pulley will compromise your power rather than yield more power - really only a show peice.


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## axlekiller (Oct 16, 2006)

*Re: (Don R)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Don R* »_
The ECS pulley will compromise your power rather than yield more power - *really only a show peice.*
 
Perfect for this project.


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## TheMunky (Sep 21, 2004)

Everything looks great, be sure to post up some dynos and videos when you're done. Good luck with the buildup! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

*Re: (TheMunky)*

Mike and I are begin the teardown/build on saturday. You better have me some mountain dew code red and pizza or something will be undertorqued


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (TheMunky)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheMunky* »_Everything looks great, be sure to post up some dynos and videos when you're done. Good luck with the buildup! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

Dyno for sure...actually plan on dynoing with X+ and then again with the BT sw and see what does better.








And zach, mom got a case of code red and we'll order some pizza for sure.


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## Don R (Oct 4, 2002)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

Take those pulley's off


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (Don R)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Don R* »_Take those pulley's off









Lol why Don? If you can show me a dyno where there's more than a 10hp loss, I'll take em off. Otherwise the show points win


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## Chupathingy (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (Don R)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Don R* »_Take those pulley's off









agreed...had the ecs kit on my car thought it was great. took them off and put the stock stuff back in the car felt so much better without them. they are a waste of money


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## WhiteG60 (Aug 20, 2001)

*Re: (Don R)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Don R* »_Take those pulley's off









I disagree. I like my ECS pullies.


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## Don R (Oct 4, 2002)

They increase frequency and alter the harmonic balancing of the crankshaft.
If you beleive otherwise then by all means enjoy them


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## WhiteG60 (Aug 20, 2001)

*Re: (Don R)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Don R* »_They increase frequency and alter the harmonic balancing of the crankshaft.
If you beleive otherwise then by all means enjoy them








 
I still haven't seen proof, just lots of heresay (herecy?







) For every oil analysis saying yes... I see 3 (including my own) that say no...


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (Don R)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Don R* »_They increase frequency and *alter the harmonic balancing of the crankshaft.*
If you beleive otherwise then by all means enjoy them









I remember reading in one of those pulley discussion threads a long time ago that the crank is not like that of the old v8's that needed dampeners on em. I'm not worried about anything breaking. But if you think the OEM's can net me a 10whp gain I may do it








And besides that, let's not make this a pulley discussion thread. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## transient_analysis (Jan 28, 2003)

This is a very good hardware list and well thought out..
You've definitely done your 1.8t homework and this will help a bunch of people who are looking to do a turbo upgrade.







for you


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## Durbo20vT (Apr 30, 2006)

you wont gain 10whp form any pullies. or even 5whp... I second to leave them as is
GL with the build. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## zaberayx (Oct 31, 2004)

Very Nice..


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## pressed (Jul 16, 2005)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

Awsome, good luck with this SAVwKO. I'm glad to see you going BT (or, at least, your wife anywho) after alllllllllllll that K03 tuning you've done! Please don't tell me that's a ATP manifold though...







I've had mucho bad luck w/ that and hope you don't run into the same problems.
Good luck again bro.


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (pressed)*

No it's a Pag Parts mani. Def higher quality than the ATP one. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## shotofgmplease (May 21, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

SAV....whats up buddy!!!
looks like you have everything together for jenn's ride http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
goodluck on the build and i hope jenn is very happy with the results. 
of course....keep us posted.
also, can you order me some pizza to my place? i'll be there in spirit. no need for any mountain dew...i'm not as xtreme as zach!


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## GT-ER (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: (shotofgmplease)*

Oh wow...that's a lot of stuff.








Would you consider sharing you GF?


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## bakana (Sep 18, 2005)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

Im interested in the rod install as well. Im looking at the exact same set my self. Im only shooting for 400whp max so well see soon, hopefully. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
You ever consider Jet Hot ceramic coating? It looks good if you care about that kind of stuff, which it seems you do. I got pics of the coating in black and sterling if you interested. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by bakana at 12:31 PM 3-5-2007_


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (GT-ER)*


_Quote, originally posted by *shotofgmplease* »_
also, can you order me some pizza to my place? i'll be there in spirit. no need for any mountain dew...i'm not as xtreme as zach!

I'll buy ya pizza sure...just you can take care of the delivery tip









_Quote, originally posted by *GT-ER* »_Oh wow...that's a lot of stuff.








Would you consider sharing you GF?





































Only with the best







haha noooooooo


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## pressed (Jul 16, 2005)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_No it's a Pag Parts mani. Def higher quality than the ATP one. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


Sweet. Should be real smooth sailing then.


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## TallaiMan (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: My first 1.8T Big Turbo buildup woot (SAVwKO)*

Nice thread! Are you planning on using ceramic coating on the turbo housing?


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: My first 1.8T Big Turbo buildup woot (TallaiMan)*

Had I known Arnold could do that before I bought the kit I woulda had him do it but I'm not really worried about it. DID think of it tho.


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## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: (pressed)*

very nice your going to have fun for sure.. Wish my wifey liked fast cars







she thinks a stock 1.8T is fast enough







http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


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## TallaiMan (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: My first 1.8T Big Turbo buildup woot (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_Had I known Arnold could do that before I bought the kit I woulda had him do it but I'm not really worried about it. DID think of it tho.

Yeah, I wouldn't worry about it either. It just looks so stealthy with the matching black ceramic Mani/Turbo/DP.


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## WhiteG60 (Aug 20, 2001)

*Re: My first 1.8T Big Turbo buildup woot (TallaiMan)*

Get wrap for the downpipe from Jegs or summit. You'll be glad you did, not so much from the PERFORMANCE perspective, but its nice to be able to work on your car without waiting 3 hours for it to cool off.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_
I remember reading in one of those pulley discussion threads a long time ago that the crank is not like that of the old v8's that needed dampeners on em. I'm not worried about anything breaking. But if you think the OEM's can net me a 10whp gain I may do it








And besides that, let's not make this a pulley discussion thread. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

the stock pulley has a harmonic balancer in it though...
we should all meet up in the tri-state somewhere mike...there are a few BT'ers around


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WhiteG60* »_Get wrap for the downpipe from Jegs or summit. You'll be glad you did, not so much from the PERFORMANCE perspective, but its nice to be able to work on your car without waiting 3 hours for it to cool off.

Yea that may be a good idea. I'll worry about that once it's all done and installed.

_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_we should all meet up in the tri-state somewhere mike...there are a few BT'ers around









I'll be down man.


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## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: My first 1.8T Big Turbo buildup woot (WhiteG60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WhiteG60* »_Get wrap for the downpipe from Jegs or summit. You'll be glad you did, not so much from the PERFORMANCE perspective, but its nice to be able to work on your car without waiting 3 hours for it to cool off.

Yep best thing i did, you can touch the DP without leaving your skin on there like you would without the wrap.. Ceramic coating is a joke compared to the wrap..... I painted my pipes first so it wont rust


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## 18JettaPower (Oct 24, 2004)

Tell zack to give me a call and maybe i'll swing by and help... I have some stuff I have to take care of in cleveland but I should be able to swing in etheir friday or sunday


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (18JettaPower)*

Sunday will be better...as I think all day Saturday will be devoted to getting the whole shebang out.


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

what are you doing for gauges?


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## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (screwball)*


_Quote, originally posted by *screwball* »_what are you doing for gauges? 

autozone.








looking good mike. whens the build start?


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## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (Don R)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Don R* »_Take those pulley's off









The alternator and PS pulley can stay as they are only lighter but definitely keep the crank pulley as a paperweight.The stock unit has a dampner and this is a + for you.


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## wreckedmyteg (Mar 23, 2006)

*Re: (Wizard-of-OD)*

SAVwKO,
Dude I don't know you personally, but I always read your posts (in the 337/20th/GLI forum and here).
This looks to be a kick @ss build. Hope you post a how-to like your K03S tuning guide.
KILLER DUDE!























ps - wish I'd see this before I bought my $250 mjm timing belt.


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (wreckedmyteg)*


_Quote, originally posted by *screwball* »_what are you doing for gauges? 

Already have a boost gauge...and uh...some VAG COM









_Quote, originally posted by *mirror* »_
autozone.








looking good mike. whens the build start? 

This weekend.









_Quote, originally posted by *wreckedmyteg* »_SAVwKO,
Dude I don't know you personally, but I always read your posts (in the 337/20th/GLI forum and here).
This looks to be a kick @ss build. Hope you post a how-to like your K03S tuning guide.
KILLER DUDE!























ps - wish I'd see this before I bought my $250 mjm timing belt.









I'll see what I can do. I love sharing this kind of info so there's a good chance you'll see something.


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## Don R (Oct 4, 2002)

*Re: (Wizard-of-OD)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Wizard-of-OD* »_
The alternator and PS pulley can stay as they are only lighter but definitely keep the crank pulley as a paperweight.The stock unit has a dampner and this is a + for you.









Thank you sir http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## matthewx (Aug 21, 2005)

so youre doing a dyno run with GIAC X+? and then a BT chip? GIAC BT chip?
is that what you plan on using for a tune? GIAC or are you just temporaly using it for a base?


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## Soupuh (Apr 29, 2005)

i got my intercooler from just-intercoolers as well.. 27x6x2.75 for ~70 shipped, works great


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (matthewx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *matthewx* »_so youre doing a dyno run with GIAC X+? and then a BT chip? GIAC BT chip?
is that what you plan on using for a tune? GIAC or are you just temporaly using it for a base?

I plan on tuning up X+ to what I can get out of it and then I'll try the GIAC BT file. Whichever runs better is the one I'll keep.


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## vdubguy97 (Sep 13, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

Very nice!!!
You didnt waste a dime, doing it right the first time http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
You gotta alot of work ahead of you..Good Luck and have fun


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## bongoRA3 (Oct 8, 2003)

*Re: (vdubguy97)*

LOL
I wouldn't worry about the ecs pulley ruining the crank bearings.....
The painted VF bushings are good for at least ~20whp.


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (bongoRA3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bongoRA3* »_LOL
I wouldn't worry about the ecs pulley ruining the crank bearings.....
The painted VF bushings are good for at least ~20whp.









Anodized adds another 10.


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## bongoRA3 (Oct 8, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_
Anodized adds another 10.









Missed that.


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## axlekiller (Oct 16, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_
Anodized adds another 10.









The only reason you care is so you have a bigger dyno number to put on the show board you show w hore.


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (axlekiller)*


_Quote, originally posted by *axlekiller* »_
The only reason you care is so you have a bigger dyno number to put on the show board you show w hore.









so


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## burnt (Nov 29, 2006)

sick, very excited about this project, k03 chip tuning is the way to go on big turbos, im running my gt28r on lemmituned k03(not x+) software and its great


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## Loren Wallace (Oct 15, 2005)

Good luck http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## axlekiller (Oct 16, 2006)

*Re: (burnt)*


_Quote, originally posted by *burnt* »_sick, very excited about this project, k03 chip tuning is the way to go on big turbos, im running my gt28r on lemmituned k03(not x+) software and its great

Dyno numbers?


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## WhiteG60 (Aug 20, 2001)

*Re: My first 1.8T Big Turbo buildup woot (O2VW1.8T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *O2VW1.8T* »_
Yep best thing i did, you can touch the DP without leaving your skin on there like you would without the wrap.. Ceramic coating is a joke compared to the wrap..... I painted my pipes first so it wont rust

Jet-Hotted the mani and turbine housing, but didn't have the downpipe yet to get it done (THANKS ARNOLD! *squint*) The jethot works just as well as the wrap does.. i can touch it while the car is running, and while, yes its hot... it doesn't immediately flay your skin off.


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## bad_news (Oct 26, 2006)

i'm only a little frustrated that we don't get to spend money on my car this year cause we've got to get wheels for the 335 and some audio stuff for my gf's tow vehicle. lol.

maybe next year we'll go back to putting the money into a 1.8t build. 
good luck on stuff bro! looks like a great parts list.


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## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_
Anodized adds another 10.









i'll try not to put a scratch on them during the install


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## nug548 (Jan 28, 2005)

*Re: (O2VW1.8T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *O2VW1.8T* »_ Wish my wifey liked fast cars







she thinks a stock 1.8T is fast enough







http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif









X2

gl on the build. i just want to see #'s after having such sucess with the ko3s http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (bongoRA3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bongoRA3* »_
I wouldn't worry about the ecs pulley ruining the crank bearings

I would rather not find out thanks


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (Wizard-of-OD)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Wizard-of-OD* »_
I would rather not find out thanks









I've been running it all summer.


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## Don R (Oct 4, 2002)

I think the TDi crank pulley is alum...a direct swap for the stock one.


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## Chitownsfinest (Dec 6, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








Don't worry Mike I am just stalking you today


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (Chitownsfinest)*

I can see that


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## HURLEYRacing (Jul 23, 2005)

Sorry I can't put your (Jens) rods in Mike. The wife and I are loooooooooonnnnnnnnng overdue for a vacation though. Good luck, we will have to find a closed course when you are done........


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## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (HURLEYRacing)*


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (HURLEYRacing)*


_Quote, originally posted by *HURLEYRacing* »_Sorry I can't put your (Jens) rods in Mike. The wife and I are loooooooooonnnnnnnnng overdue for a vacation though. Good luck, we will have to find a closed course when you are done........

Don't go out of your service range cuz I may have to blow up your phone.


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## shotofgmplease (May 21, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

thin crust pineapple pizza.
cool thanks babycakes!


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (shotofgmplease)*

Got some new pics for you guys


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## TallaiMan (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_



LMAO


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## Chris164935 (Jan 10, 2004)

Haha! That's awesome.
Make sure you take your time and take breaks. My friend and I tried rebuild my motor in one afternoon and by 12 pm we were ready to kill each other!








We were lucky that we rushed that much and the motor was able to crank on the first try. Which is always a good feeling. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Also, check out the link in my sig. if you're interested in the build up we did...


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## UntouchableGTI (Apr 30, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_
Lol why Don? If you can show me a dyno where there's more than a 10hp loss, I'll take em off. Otherwise the show points win
















Y would u want to loose any hp plain and simple for stupid looks? get some nice billet shiney pulleys or something if thats what ur looking for


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (UntouchableGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *UntouchableGTI* »_
Y would u want to loose any hp plain and simple for stupid looks? get some nice billet shiney pulleys or something if thats what ur looking for

That's all subjective...and I doubt the power loss would even be noticeable if any.


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## HURLEYRacing (Jul 23, 2005)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

It's OK guys, Mike is just going to help us find out how well those integrated rods and the factory crankshaft are balanced. It might not even be an issue with the AWP but I spent an hour trying to talk a friend out of using an underdrive crank pulley on his WS6 Trans Am. LT1 engine + underdrive pulley + about 1,500 miles = broken crankshaft and damaged block. I have also seen these throw serpentine belts off before internal damage is done (happens alot on supercharged Cooper S cars) and the owners usually go back to stock at that point.


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (HURLEYRacing)*

Dizzy will tell ya...he ran his pulleys for over a 100k miles and even had an oil analysis done. Needless to say he never posted a thread about his crank failing.


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## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

the pulleys will be fine,
btw how's your engine coming along jeff?


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## HURLEYRacing (Jul 23, 2005)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

Relax Mike, my buddies LT1 also had a super light flywheel bolted to it, and an aftermarket clutch etc. There is more than one contributing factor there, and if some one ran them for 100K good for them. What we should do is take a car and find out whether reciprocating mass affects load/spool time. I chose the heavier of the G60 flywheels when I put the VR6 clutch in (still substantially lighter than a stock dual mass). I am sure more than a few people on here have underdrive horror stories (I've seen them throw error messages on BMW's with intelligent battery sensors) and more than a few people that are fine. We need dyno data, boost logs, and long term plasti guage measurements to be definitive.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (HURLEYRacing)*

Werd...well I opted for the 16lb steel f/w over the lighter aluminum one so that may account for the pulleys being lighter if it is indeed harmful.


----------



## axlekiller (Oct 16, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_Dizzy will tell ya...he ran his pulleys for over a 100k miles and even had an oil analysis done. Needless to say he never posted a thread about his crank failing.

I also didn't reuse the pulleys when I built my motor.







So since you want to be like me, ditch them.


----------



## HURLEYRacing (Jul 23, 2005)

*Re: (igotaprestent4u)*


_Quote, originally posted by *igotaprestent4u* »_the pulleys will be fine,
btw how's your engine coming along jeff?

Rebuilt, thanks to a certain valve spring manufacturer that shall remain nameless. Should be on the road about 48 hours after I get rid of the flu or after I get back into town.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (axlekiller)*


_Quote, originally posted by *axlekiller* »_
I also didn't reuse the pulleys when I built my motor.







So since you want to be like me, ditch them. 

Any particular reason? I mean there has to be SOMETHING that can overpower 100k miles of use right?


----------



## axlekiller (Oct 16, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_
Any particular reason? I mean there has to be SOMETHING that can overpower 100k miles of use right?










_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_ I trust Don.


----------



## fast_a2_20v (Jun 25, 2004)

Like I've said 100x before, there is a reason top motor builders for many marque's, import or domestic, spend $3-500 on fluiddamper or similar crank damper pullies, not $50 on an ebay aluminum one.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (fast_a2_20v)*

ugh okaaaaaaay...but i told diz the alt and p/s stay


----------



## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

*Re: (HURLEYRacing)*


_Quote, originally posted by *HURLEYRacing* »_
Rebuilt, thanks to a certain valve spring manufacturer that shall remain nameless. Should be on the road about 48 hours after I get rid of the flu or after I get back into town. 


was it the opposite of Dog?


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_
Any particular reason? I mean there has to be SOMETHING that can overpower 100k miles of use right?









the harmonics a larger turbo produce and the pressue introduced is night and day vs. an oem unit. 


_Modified by mirror at 8:28 AM 3-7-2007_


----------



## HURLEYRacing (Jul 23, 2005)

*Re: (igotaprestent4u)*


_Quote, originally posted by *igotaprestent4u* »_

was it the opposite of Dog?









You know what really pissed me off about the whole thing? I don't have a foot to stand on as far as seeking damages, or at the very least a replacement spring. I did the math on the odometer. I had just over 200 miles on that motor. I guess it's just part of the game, right? And my wife wonders why I spend 20-45 minutes hitting my heavy bag every day.


----------



## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

*Re: (HURLEYRacing)*


_Quote, originally posted by *HURLEYRacing* »_
You know what really pissed me off about the whole thing? I don't have a foot to stand on as far as seeking damages, or at the very least a replacement spring. I did the math on the odometer. I had just over 200 miles on that motor. I guess it's just part of the game, right? And my wife wonders why I spend 20-45 minutes hitting my heavy bag every day.

i hear ya, thats the sux


----------



## HURLEYRacing (Jul 23, 2005)

*Re: (igotaprestent4u)*


_Quote, originally posted by *igotaprestent4u* »_
i hear ya, thats the sux









It's cool I guess. It gave me the chance to make some serious improvements. I am just going to stick with locals for parts now, people I actually know. I work down the street from Wiseco (and one of the marketing guys is our customer), Shearerfab is like 4 miles from my house, Autobahn extremist is even closer, and I even got my cams from Buschur Racing. ECS might as well be out of town because it's hard to go pick things up now. Nothing against them, they do a great job of running a big business with a small staff. You can't beat that website, and it only takes an extra day or two to get your parts. Atleast I have met most of those guys and I would be comfy going down there if I had a real problem. They were very cool when my brother had to have his DME replaced. I think us N.E. Ohio guys should utilize the resources here, it always seems to work out better for me. I know, I know slanted view but, owell. 


_Modified by HURLEYRacing at 10:57 AM 3-7-2007_


----------



## AudiA4_18T (Mar 15, 2006)

Wow nice setup man...
I heard just-intercoolers is good stuff.. Some Audi guys have bought them recently and said the customer service is great :up: Cant wait to see the progress... Where are you expecting the boost to come in and how much power should it put down? Im guessing around 280whp on pump?


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (AudiA4_18T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AudiA4_18T* »_Wow nice setup man...
I heard just-intercoolers is good stuff.. Some Audi guys have bought them recently and said the customer service is great :up: Cant wait to see the progress... Where are you expecting the boost to come in and how much power should it put down? Im guessing around 280whp on pump?

I'd expect full boost no later than 4k on this turbo...and as far as power...280 is quite shy of what I'm gunnin for. GT-ER made 378whp on race gas with the same exact turbo/injector setup on the same s/w I'll be using. Difference will be that I'm running dual nozzle water/meth...so...hmmmmm


----------



## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

*Re: (AudiA4_18T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AudiA4_18T* »_Wow nice setup man...
I heard just-intercoolers is good stuff.. Some Audi guys have bought them recently and said the customer service is great :up: Cant wait to see the progress... Where are you expecting the boost to come in and how much power should it put down? Im guessing around 280whp on pump?

280?
lol
380 should be possible


----------



## AudiA4_18T (Mar 15, 2006)

Right but I only run pump so it wouldnt be 380whp on pump maybe more like 340whp I guess?... Damn I wish us Audi guys had all the software stuff you do... Anyway I guess your tuning with lemminwinks (sp?) but I thought that GIAC blocks outside programming? Guess I could be wrong


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (AudiA4_18T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AudiA4_18T* »_Right but I only run pump so it wouldnt be 380whp on pump maybe more like 340whp I guess?... Damn I wish us Audi guys had all the software stuff you do... Anyway I guess your tuning with lemminwinks (sp?) but I thought that GIAC blocks outside programming? Guess I could be wrong

True but with w/m I should be right around 360-370whp on pump gas since it lets me raise my timing just like running race gas.


----------



## AudiA4_18T (Mar 15, 2006)

How are you going to raise your timing?


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (AudiA4_18T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AudiA4_18T* »_How are you going to raise your timing?

Lemmiwinks. It works with GIAC programming just fine.


----------



## AudiA4_18T (Mar 15, 2006)

Ah true, I guess its just a myth then... Nice man I cant wait to see the progress. If I could put down 330whp on pump it would be AWESOME http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Space9888 (Mar 18, 2002)

*Re: (Chupathingy)*

Ive had ecs pullies for well over 70k with g60 14lb flywheel, and had no noticeable issues, engine now has 120k on it
biggest issue is oem tranny doesnt respond well to the differant spin up dynamics of then engine with lightweight parts, not so good for drag racing, imo its much easier to mess up a shift, since timming is more critical and a much smaller window is present with the quicker spin up you have to take more time to shift, 
on the other hand if you spend more time on back roads on-off-on response is much better when in say 3rd or 4th gear, just shifting sucks. not to mention the power drops off more from gear to gear since there is less rotational momentum. turbo spools good tho once things get moving. 


_Modified by Space9888 at 10:57 AM 3-8-2007_


----------



## AudiA4_18T (Mar 15, 2006)

that sounds like it sux then id rather have a larger window to shift for every day driving then just a quicker spool


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (AudiA4_18T)*

Aight here is the big update!
We started at around 10am and by 12, the motor was out of the car. Got the head, tbelt ish, all that off. Rods/pistons are out. Everything is just out in the garage chillen. We're gonna swap the pistons to the new Integrated Rods tonight as well. Tomorrow it'll all go back in. Overall we moved pretty quickly. I knew this was gonna be involved but I didn't think we'd do as well as we did. So, here are some pics to represent our day. I also took a pic for the Prime Ministah...see if you can spot it







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Also, zach (igotaprestent4u) had a goal to get his middle finger in every pic.


----------



## turbotuner20V (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

where's the pic of the g/f's face when she saw this.... lol

_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (turbotuner20V)*

I don't think she's seen it yet







shhhhh


----------



## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

what can i say i like to flick off cameras, we'll have her mostly together by tomorrow, only 2 hours for us to yank the entire motor, not bad at all


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (igotaprestent4u)*

talk about a cluster fuq here.








looking good mike. you going to assemble the turbo kit on the motor before you slide it back in i hope?


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (mirror)*

hhahahahaha dood...that pic is a result of zach whining about not being pictured doing anything so he had johnny take a pic of him doing nothing whatsoever with the ratchet.








And yes, I'll have as much bolted onto the motor before sliding it back in. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

never nice i love build up threads. Even though i've been thru this its always better to see someone else do it lol...


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (O2VW1.8T)*

Hey Pete...I disconnected those vac lines from that plastic cover for the EVAP, but I can't figure out how to get that cover OFF without breaking it. Try and find those pics man.


----------



## bad_news (Oct 26, 2006)

good work today boys!


----------



## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_Hey Pete...I disconnected those vac lines from that plastic cover for the EVAP, but I can't figure out how to get that cover OFF without breaking it. Try and find those pics man.









lmao it was a pain to take it off.. give me a few min i might know were its at








Never mind can't find it


_Modified by O2VW1.8T at 10:30 PM 3-10-2007_


----------



## TheMunky (Sep 21, 2004)

Looks like fun haha, good luck with the rest of the build! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (O2VW1.8T)*

Ugh well atleast kinda tell me what I'm taking off. Like that black plastic runs all the way down to the frame rail and has the fuel line inside. Did you remove ALL of that black plastic or just the cap where the lines stick out?


----------



## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_Ugh well atleast kinda tell me what I'm taking off. Like that black plastic runs all the way down to the frame rail and has the fuel line inside. Did you remove ALL of that black plastic or just the cap where the lines stick out?

yeah just remove it, your engine is out so it should be much easier.... You might have to break it open.... if i remember correctly pop the top off and you should figure out how to remove it...


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (O2VW1.8T)*

Yea I figured I'd wanna get it out before we swing the motor back in. I may just break out the dremel and cut it all the way up.


----------



## inivid (Aug 25, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

Please share how this was done. It's fkin rad.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (inivid)*

trophy shop & jb weld


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

This is from last night...we took the pistons off the stock rods and put the Integrated ones on. Those ring clips are a PITA. But anywho, got those on and then also started assembling the turbo to the manifold and all the oil/coolant lines. We didn't tighten the AN fittings yet so once it's bolted to the motor, we can place the lines accordingly and then tighten the fittings so they don't move.


----------



## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

Savwko made a circlip fly into the ceiling, i had to take over after that.


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (igotaprestent4u)*


_Quote, originally posted by *igotaprestent4u* »_Savwko made a circlip fly into the ceiling, i had to take over after that.
















i was going to ask how many you guys lost.


----------



## UntouchableGTI (Apr 30, 2006)

*Re: (mirror)*

i love how noone ever takes the time to build a motor right, it blows my mind.


----------



## GT-ER (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: (UntouchableGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *UntouchableGTI* »_i love how noone ever takes the time to build a motor right, it blows my mind.

Wha? I built mine in less than 24hours ( inlcuding my 8 hours of sleep ) and I built it right. 
Hey, Mike...what car came with the K03S+ anyways?


----------



## BMP20AE (Jun 7, 2005)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

how many build up threads do you have?


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (UntouchableGTI)*

you talk like we're rushing?








And I have buildups in the Mk4 and 3/2/G forums but there is more than just the motor getting work done, and since you guys don't care about that other stuff, you just get the "important" stuff.










_Modified by SAVwKO at 2:31 PM 3-11-2007_


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## AudiA4_18T (Mar 15, 2006)

How did you guys learn how to pull the motor? Ive wanted to do the rods on mine for awhile (Ive done pretty much everything DIY on my car so far) but I feel like theres too many easy things you can mess up. Am I wrong?


----------



## GT-ER (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: (AudiA4_18T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AudiA4_18T* »_How did you guys learn how to pull the motor? Ive wanted to do the rods on mine for awhile (Ive done pretty much everything DIY on my car so far) but I feel like theres too many easy things you can mess up. Am I wrong?

You don't have to pull the motor for rods....Savwko did it becuase he is also changing the clutch so he might as well. I did mine with the engine still in the car and it really wasn't that hard...just time consuming.


----------



## UntouchableGTI (Apr 30, 2006)

*Re: (BMP20AE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GT-ER* »_
What? I built mine in less than 24hours ( inlcuding my 8 hours of sleep ) and I built it right. 


Sorry building a motor with just drop in rods, and putting the motor back together is not the right way to "build" a motor. Sorry its not. Pulling the motor out ripping everything apart and measuring and miking all gaps, and clearances, replacing all bearings, inspecting ALL parts, decking the head surface and motor to head surface, and balancing the whole assembly ( especially since you have heavier rods, and a lighted clutch ass. and flywheel ), ive built engines ( just got done building my own ) and thats not the way to build them PROPERLY, to all his own i guess, but balancing a engine and whatnot is coving ur arse and gives u a lil here and there

_Quote, originally posted by *BMP20AE* »_how many build up threads do you have?

Y do i need any build up threads? I have plenty of pics of my engine build, but y do i need to have a build up thread?


----------



## GT-ER (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: (UntouchableGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *UntouchableGTI* »_Sorry building a motor with just drop in rods, and putting the motor back together is not the right way to "build" a motor. Sorry its not. Pulling the motor out ripping everything apart and measuring and miking all gaps, and clearances, replacing all bearings, inspecting ALL parts, decking the head surface and motor to head surface, and balancing the whole assembly ( especially since you have heavier rods, and a lighted clutch ass. and flywheel ), ive built engines ( just got done building my own ) and thats not the way to build them PROPERLY, to all his own i guess, but balancing a engine and whatnot is coving ur arse and gives u a lil here and therec

Y do i need any build up threads? I have plenty of pics of my engine build, but y do i need to have a build up thread? 

Sorry but I don't agree... maybe if you want an 800hp engine or one that lasts 300,000 miles then fine. But I have rebuilt quite a few engines and NOT ONCE have I had a failure and they have all been torn apart and rebuilt with new/old parts slapped together and that's it. Building engines is NOT a science, nor are we building a Space Shuttle here. You'd be surprised how unnecessary a lot of those things you mention are. 
Heck, I have a friend of mine who is worse than I am and he installes used pistons with USED rings from other cars without honing or anything...LOL... and he did [email protected] on a bone stock VR6 engine and put almost 580whp. 
If just pulling out rods and installing forged ones, with whatever shortcuts I've taken, makes me a 400whp capable engine that'll last 100,000 miles.... I'm happy. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by GT-ER at 5:02 PM 3-11-2007_


----------



## UntouchableGTI (Apr 30, 2006)

*Re: (GT-ER)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GT-ER* »_
Sorry but I don't agree... maybe if you want an 800hp engine or one that lasts 300,000 miles then fine. But I have rebuilt quite a few engines and NOT ONCE have I had a failure and they have all been torn apart and rebuilt with new/old parts slapped together and that's it. Building engines is NOT a science, nor are we building a Space Shuttle here. You'd be surprised how unnecessary a lot of those things you mention are. 
Heck, I have a friend of mine who is worse than I am and he installes used pistons with USED rings from other cars without honing or anything...LOL... and he did [email protected] on a bone stock VR6 engine and put almost 580whp. 

_Modified by GT-ER at 5:01 PM 3-11-2007_

not once did i say stuff wont work, i just said its not the right way http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif , but to all there own


----------



## GT-ER (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: (UntouchableGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *UntouchableGTI* »_not once did i say stuff wont work, i just said its not the right way http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif , but to all there own









The "right way" is to buy a crate engine from VW and install Carillo Rods with Mahle Motorsport pistons and have everything crygenically treated with 0 miles on EVERYTHING and fully balanced, magnafluxed, shot peened....the works. You'll have a 400+whp capable engine that'll last you 200,000 miles....What's the difference if you probably won't get to the 200,000 miles mark anyways?
I remember by brother ONCE did an engine the "right way" and made a mistake in a race and over revved it ( wrong gear ) and kabooom.... all that money down the drain. Later he got an engine we had in our back yard full of WATER, flushed it, added oil, and went on to race for the next YEAR ( EVERY weekend ) with no problems what-so-ever.


----------



## UntouchableGTI (Apr 30, 2006)

*Re: (GT-ER)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GT-ER* »_
The "right way" is to buy a crate engine from VW and install Carillo Rods with Mahle Motorsport pistons and have everything crygenically treated with 0 miles on EVERYTHING and fully balanced, magnafluxed, shot peened....the works. You'll have a 400+whp capable engine that'll last you 200,000 miles....What's the difference if you probably won't get to the 200,000 miles mark anyways?
I remember by brother ONCE did an engine the "right way" and made a mistake in a race and over revved it ( wrong gear ) and kabooom.... all that money down the drain. Later he got an engine we had in our back yard full of WATER, flushed it, added oil, and went on to race for the next YEAR ( EVERY weekend ) with no problems what-so-ever. 









your so right, idk y people even do that kind of stuff, geez stupid me, stupid people


----------



## dmonitto (Mar 24, 2003)

*Re: (UntouchableGTI)*

For your average big turbo car, everything you mention is way overkill. Rods are balanced to +/- 1 gram, the clutch/flywheel ass. is also balanced or your going to have pretty big problems. 90% of the built motors on this forum are 300-400 whp cars that spend most of their life below 4k rpm and and are only in boost for short periods. It would be a waste money having the rotating assembly balanced, decking the head ect on a motor that is rarely going to be spinning to the redline, and rarely making full power. Once you get in to the 10% of the guys on here making real power, and racing their cars at their full potential, and revving well beyond the stock rev limiter, then I agree with "building it right." Savwko isn't building a race car http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## GT-ER (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: (UntouchableGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *UntouchableGTI* »_your so right, idk y people even do that kind of stuff, geez stupid me, stupid people









I'm not saying stupid you... If I had huge chunks of money I would buy 5 or 6 crate engines just to have them spare and always built them to your specs... just cause I can. But I can't.


----------



## mj6234 (Jan 24, 2002)

*Re: (UntouchableGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *UntouchableGTI* »_
not once did i say stuff wont work, i just said its not the right way http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif , but to all there own









So do you think when VW builds the stock engines that go in our cars that the balance and blueprint everything? I am pretty sure they order the parts and slap it together. Probably not that unlike what these guys are doing.


----------



## UntouchableGTI (Apr 30, 2006)

*Re: (dmonitto)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dmonitto* »_Rods are balanced to +/- 1 gram, the clutch/flywheel ass. is also balanced or your going to have pretty big problems. 

sorry, but tell me how a clutch assembly with a lightened flywheel is balance particular to a used crank and whatnot? its not. Im done, i said what i had to say


----------



## GT-ER (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: (UntouchableGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *UntouchableGTI* »_sorry, but tell me how a clutch assembly with a lightened flywheel is balance particular to a used crank and whatnot? its not. Im done, i said what i had to say

You can balance a clutch assembly and seperately balance a crank... slap them together and guess what? They are balanced.


----------



## dmonitto (Mar 24, 2003)

*Re: (UntouchableGTI)*

It is not balanced to in regards to the crank, but it is balanced about the center. So are you saying that everytime a clutch/flywheel is changed you need to have the entire rotating ass. balanced? No. Do you think a stock motor is blueprinted and balanced at a machine shop in mexico before it is put in your car. No. Indivdual parts are balanced, and slapped together. The crank is balanced about the center of rotation, the clutch and flywheel are balanced about the center of rotation, the rods are all within 1 gram, the combined assembly is pretty damn close to being balanced for the average joe. When you are dropping in $300 rods, you are just buying extra safety, not building a race car.



_Modified by dmonitto at 5:43 PM 3-11-2007_


----------



## Chris164935 (Jan 10, 2004)

*Re: (AudiA4_18T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AudiA4_18T* »_How did you guys learn how to pull the motor? Ive wanted to do the rods on mine for awhile (Ive done pretty much everything DIY on my car so far) but I feel like theres too many easy things you can mess up. Am I wrong?

Not to thread jack, but you won't be able to install rods in your A4's 1.8t without pulling the motor or dropping the subframe. The oil pan sits over the subframe and you can't access the bolts there to remove the pan.


----------



## GT-ER (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: (dmonitto)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dmonitto* »_It is not balanced to in regards to the crank, but it is balanced about the center. So are you saying that everytime a clutch/flywheel is changed you need to have the entire rotating ass. balanced? No. Do you think a stock motor is blueprinted and balanced at a machine shop in mexico before it is put in your car. No. Indivdual parts are balanced, and slapped together. The crank is balanced about the center of rotation, the clutch and flywheel are balanced about the center of rotation, the rods are all within 1 gram, the combined assembly is pretty damn close to being balanced for the average joe. When you are dropping in $300 rods, you are just buying extra safety, not building a race car.

_Modified by dmonitto at 5:43 PM 3-11-2007_

You are exactly correct. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## AudiA4_18T (Mar 15, 2006)

Damn Chris how did you learn how to pull the motor? I want to learn about this really bad I just dont knwo where to start


----------



## i2ickei242 (May 31, 2004)

*Re: (AudiA4_18T)*

You guys have no idea whats in store for the pics coming tonite!


----------



## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: (i2ickei242)*


_Quote, originally posted by *i2ickei242* »_You guys have no idea whats in store for the pics coming tonite!








can't wait


----------



## dmonitto (Mar 24, 2003)

*Re: (GT-ER)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GT-ER* »_
You are exactly correct. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

its just simple physics lol http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (dmonitto)*








Ok FINALLY got around to uploading all the pics. First off I have to say that for what this car is going to be, there is absolutely no need to do any of that stuff you said untouchable. If money wasn't a thang and we could afford to do all that, probably. But there is just no NEED for a car that's not gonna be gettin the piss beat out of it everyday.
So...this morning got the rods in...put the oil pan on, head back on. Water pump, t-stat, tbelt kit...bolted the turbo assembly on. Got the new coolant lines on and got the motor in. Bolted it up...just about all the harnesses are connected in. Still a few things here and there that need done before the car will run but no problem. As I said I have all week long to do this...the main portion is done. Here are the buttload of pics throughout the day. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

i hope you used lube on those bearings before assembely, and spun the motor a couple of times. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## GT-ER (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: (mirror)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mirror* »_i hope you used lube on those bearings before assembely, and spun the motor a couple of times. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

When I did it I used oil...guess it's better than nothing..lol. I've seen people use some special lubricant.
You guys are lucky, You have a whole team helping build your car. It must be fun as hell!


_Modified by GT-ER at 11:46 PM 3-11-2007_


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (mirror)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mirror* »_i hope you used lube on those bearings before assembely, and spun the motor a couple of times. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

Oh boy...
* Drop the oil pan
* Untorque the ARP rod bolts
* slide the piston/connecting rod assembly up the cylinder
* inspect rod brearings (lets hope they dont have any scorns on them)
* squirt some 10W-30 (or 20W-50) oil on the connecting rod bearings,the more the merrier.
* slide the piston/connecting rod assembly back down and retorque the ARP bolts.
* bolt back up oil pan
* Start the motor and run it for a couple of miles
* Drain oil and change oil filter
* full up with new oil (your choice)
* Take the car for a spin and beat the piss out of it


----------



## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

*Re: (mirror)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mirror* »_i hope you used lube on those bearings before assembely, and spun the motor a couple of times. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

should have folllowed my advice







, good thing i drove home or i'd have to help pull the pan again















on the way back tonight it was found that 160mph is only 6400rpm with the 02m


----------



## Chris164935 (Jan 10, 2004)

*Re: (AudiA4_18T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AudiA4_18T* »_Damn Chris how did you learn how to pull the motor? I want to learn about this really bad I just dont knwo where to start

Don't want to thread jack, so check out the link in my sig and feel free to PM me or ask questions there. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
But back on topic. Looks like the build up is going quite well. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Hopefully, you won't have the same kind of luck as me.


----------



## j0hnnybmx (Oct 18, 2004)

*Re: (igotaprestent4u)*


_Quote, originally posted by *igotaprestent4u* »_
should have folllowed my advice







, good thing i drove home or i'd have to help pull the pan again















on the way back tonight it was found that 160mph is only 6400rpm with the 02m

















yeah but instead i get to yank it out. luckily we've got the airtools or taking all of those damn bolts out of the oilpan and then putting them all back in shortly after would get really old fast. it seems things go wrong when i'm not around















and.. the BMP felt so slow on the way home today after being in the EVO and your GTI. bastards. prolly in about a month my car is getting engine rebuild and probably dual spray water meth. that should keep me occupied untill i have the money to slap in an angry snail.. next winter


----------



## dmonitto (Mar 24, 2003)

*Re: (j0hnnybmx)*

wait... you put the motor together with no lube?


----------



## fast_a2_20v (Jun 25, 2004)

ARP 2000 rod bolts are stretch bolts, and they aren't cheap per set! If you used a decent motor oil it should be fine being that this motor isn't going to sit around forever before it is run. 
I always use clevite assembly lube, its just the right balance between being thick enough to stay put and thin enough so your assembly turns over nicely. 
You did plastigauge everything and rotate it over after everything was torqued down, right?


----------



## GT-ER (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: (fast_a2_20v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *fast_a2_20v* »_
You did plastigauge everything and rotate it over after everything was torqued down, right? 

You are pushing it.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (GT-ER)*

The package of assembly lube said for ARP 2000 rod bolts...so I thought well that must be just for putting on the threads of the bolts.







The crank was still oily but as a safegaurd we're gonna just drop the pan and lube the bearings with the assembly lube. I know it was dumb. Jason your post was a day late. I'll fix it though.
Oh and bobqzzi told me those ARP2000 bolts can be used more than once. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_The package of assembly lube said for ARP 2000 rod bolts...so I thought well that must be just for putting on the threads of the bolts.







The crank was still oily but as a safegaurd we're gonna just drop the pan and lube the bearings with the assembly lube. I know it was dumb. Jason your post was a day late. I'll fix it though.
Oh and bobqzzi told me those ARP2000 bolts can be used more than once. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 








sucks man. but you only have one chance to do this right before it costs money and time. you guys are about 1.5 weeks ahead of shedule anyhow, so pulling the rod caps off won't set you back. wiz summed up what we spoke about last night. at least you realize it was overlooked before you started hearing banging in the lower end.


----------



## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (mirror)*

what IC core is that? looks nice copmpared to my atp.
ps clean up the wiring, it will compliment the rest of the motor how clean it is.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (VW1990CORRADO)*

It's an eBay core from just-intercoolers.
I plan on hiding as much as I can...how hard is extending the injector wires? Just cut and add any old wire?


----------



## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

ya i just sliced the tape up and i think last year when i did the inj harness i just had to solder in wire to 1 of the injs. the other i got more slack outta it. and re taped and fabric taped the entire engine harness last week when i "reworked it" (aka all the crap not being used is in the wire tray, n112, n249, n75, sai. all but the n75 have 330ohm 10W resisters conected.
couple pics of the wiring.


----------



## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

*Re: (mirror)*

yea hopefully its no big deal to lube them, the whole build went really smooth, having a team of 4 1.8t guys working on it really helps


----------



## 18JettaPower (Oct 24, 2004)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_The package of assembly lube said for ARP 2000 rod bolts...so I thought well that must be just for putting on the threads of the bolts.







The crank was still oily but as a safegaurd we're gonna just drop the pan and lube the bearings with the assembly lube. I know it was dumb. Jason your post was a day late. I'll fix it though.
Oh and bobqzzi told me those ARP2000 bolts can be used more than once. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

That ARP2000 lube is only for the threads of the rod bolts ONLY use oil on the journals and bearing!


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (fast_a2_20v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *fast_a2_20v* »_ARP 2000 rod bolts are stretch bolts

They can be untorqued and retorqued.
Do not put the moly lube that came with them on the bearings...use oil (10W-30,etc)


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (Wizard-of-OD)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Wizard-of-OD* »_
They can be untorqued and retorqued.
Do not put the moly lube that came with them on the bearings...use oil (10W-30,etc)

Ok...well atleast I knew not to put that lube on there.







The 3 10mm bolts to the oil pan on the tranny side are a big PITA.


----------



## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

yea be careful not to overtorque any of them


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (igotaprestent4u)*

whats the status captain? i didn't hear from you, so i assume you're good?


----------



## GT-ER (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: (igotaprestent4u)*


_Quote, originally posted by *igotaprestent4u* »_yea be careful not to overtorque any of them









200ft-lb correct?


----------



## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

*Re: (mirror)*

the rod bearings are now lubricated


----------



## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: (igotaprestent4u)*


_Quote, originally posted by *igotaprestent4u* »_the rod bearings are now lubricated 








now get some redline vids


----------



## UntouchableGTI (Apr 30, 2006)

*Re: (O2VW1.8T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_The package of assembly lube said for ARP 2000 rod bolts...so I thought well that must be just for putting on the threads of the bolts.







The crank was still oily but as a safegaurd we're gonna just drop the pan and lube the bearings with the assembly lube. I know it was dumb. Jason your post was a day late. I'll fix it though.
Oh and bobqzzi told me those ARP2000 bolts can be used more than once. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

*** JUST HAD TOO ***
Now if u took the time to put everything together correctly and not in a hurry, u wouldnt have ran into this problem







, but ive done dumb ish like that b4, so get a







and fix ur problem http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

*Re: (UntouchableGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *UntouchableGTI* »_
*** JUST HAD TOO ***
Now if u took the time to put everything together correctly and not in a hurry, u wouldnt have ran into this problem







, but ive done dumb ish like that b4, so get a







and fix ur problem http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

it wasnt a matter of rushing, it was a matter of different people's opinions. we were going actually at a very steady pace


----------



## UntouchableGTI (Apr 30, 2006)

*Re: (igotaprestent4u)*


_Quote, originally posted by *igotaprestent4u* »_
it wasnt a matter of rushing, it was a matter of different people's opinions. we were going actually at a very steady pace 

what do u mean different peoples opinions? what noone knew wtf they were doin?


----------



## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

*Re: (UntouchableGTI)*

i told the group to lube the bearings, but they didnt, 
im sure it was fun pulling the pan again







, not a huge deal though, learn from experience http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## UntouchableGTI (Apr 30, 2006)

*Re: (igotaprestent4u)*


_Quote, originally posted by *igotaprestent4u* »_i told the group to lube the bearings, but they didnt, 
im sure it was fun pulling the pan again







, not a huge deal though, learn from experience http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

hope they torque the caps correctly


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (UntouchableGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *UntouchableGTI* »_
hope they torque the caps correctly

it's the second time torquing the caps. i know these fools personally, for what they accomplished in ~48 hours lapsed time, and everyone being first timers on the build, they did fine. luckily they caught the mistake before start-up. if thats the worse thing that happens, i would say it's a success.


----------



## UntouchableGTI (Apr 30, 2006)

*Re: (mirror)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mirror* »_
it's the second time torquing the caps. i know these fools personally, for what they accomplished in ~48 hours lapsed time, and everyone being first timers on the build, they did fine. luckily they caught the mistake before start-up. if thats the worse thing that happens, i would say it's a success. 

hopefully


----------



## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

*Re: (UntouchableGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *UntouchableGTI* »_
hope they torque the caps correctly

they were


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (igotaprestent4u)*

Yea we're good. Those rods were not easy to get apart until I created my own patented rod cap removal tool. It's called taking your dads old flathead screwdriver, and dremeling down the tip so it's very sharp. Fits RIGHT into the groove on the rod and use a mallet to split it off.








So yea erthang is lubed up. We weren't rushing. Zach DID say to lube the bearings but I looked at the package and it said to use it on the rod bolts...I wasn't even thinking about oil so I thought nah this is for the bolts. This was DEFINITELY the ONLY thing we screwed up. We had no other problems with the build and really there was nothing else to forget.
At this point, the update for today is that we started taking care of the small stuff like running lines and wires around. Might be able to start it up tomorrow once the oil is here. I'll make a vid fo sho.


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Don R (Oct 4, 2002)

I usually use Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer when assembling and pour a bit of Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant onto the pistons before 1st start-up.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (Don R)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Don R* »_I usually use Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer when assembling and pour a bit of Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant onto the pistons before 1st start-up.

Hmmm...I think my buddy has some of the stabilizer stuff. Is this stuff you highly recommend b/c if so I'll grab a bottle while I'm out today.


----------



## Don R (Oct 4, 2002)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_
Hmmm...I think my buddy has some of the stabilizer stuff. Is this stuff you highly recommend b/c if so I'll grab a bottle while I'm out today.

Which stabilizer stuff? For the fuel or for the oil?
You already went back and lubed the journals and rod-end bearings.


----------



## bobqzzi (Sep 24, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_Yea we're good. Those rods were not easy to get apart until I created my own patented rod cap removal tool. It's called taking your dads old flathead screwdriver, and dremeling down the tip so it's very sharp. Fits RIGHT into the groove on the rod and use a mallet to split it off.








.
.

ARRARARRAHGGGHHH NEVER do that.
Proper removal of caps is done by loosening the bolts about 1/2 way, then tapping, gently, on the bolt heads with a plastic mallet.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (bobqzzi)*

Even for the dowel pin rods? I can't see tapping the bolts getting those things off. They don't fall off like the OEM ones.


----------



## bobqzzi (Sep 24, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_Even for the dowel pin rods? I can't see tapping the bolts getting those things off. They don't fall off like the OEM ones.

Yes, absolutely. That method works just fine and doesn't damage the parting line.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (bobqzzi)*

Oh...








Well hey question: What fuse is for the fuel pump? You think it's a good idea to pull it and crank the motor over a couple times so the oil gets in and around everywhere and then plug the fues back in and start it up?


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_Oh...









Well hey question: What fuse is for the fuel pump? You think it's a good idea to pull it and crank the motor over a couple times so the oil gets in and around everywhere and then plug the fues back in and start it up?

#28/yes. it's a procedue you want to do anyhow to get oil inside the chra of your turbo.


----------



## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (mirror)*

i just take my powerprobe and throw 12v at the starter and crank it in like 10second intervals. (probe internally fused @ 10A)


----------



## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: (VW1990CORRADO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VW1990CORRADO* »_i just take my powerprobe and throw 12v at the starter and crank it in like 10second intervals. (probe internally fused @ 10A)

powerprobe is one of the best tools i ever bought http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Don R (Oct 4, 2002)

Just a suggestion...after you get it running and do a full complete heat cycle, go over the exhaust mani nuts including the turbo to exhuast mani nuts and re-tighten them if required.


----------



## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (Don R)*

do you recomend running the motor for like 20 mins to operating temp and then shutting it down? for new break in (my block was built by bobqzzi) is this the best idea? or would i want to go out and drive it like 20 miles after it hits operating temp so it has propper ring sealing on the bores before the "break in" material is scraped away?


----------



## fast_a2_20v (Jun 25, 2004)

Its not a super soft tap but yes they will come apart that way. Works great. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Don R (Oct 4, 2002)

*Re: (VW1990CORRADO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VW1990CORRADO* »_do you recomend running the motor for like 20 mins to operating temp and then shutting it down? for new break in (my block was built by bobqzzi) is this the best idea? or would i want to go out and drive it like 20 miles after it hits operating temp so it has propper ring sealing on the bores before the "break in" material is scraped away?

Whatever Bob had recommended you http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## EdsGTI (Mar 9, 2003)

im excited for the carnage/spun bearing/knocking sound/metal flake in my oil thread. sorry...


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (EdsGTI)*


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

don't listen to him mike, he's just bitter cause he is young


----------



## EdsGTI (Mar 9, 2003)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

im bitter lol?, try concerned i do this on a regular basis. i read through all 6 pages and some of the stuff is scary. I speak to almost everyone on this forum and i was told to go to this thread some were in shock. Sorry sav, i wish you the best of luck, but putting together a motor dry and not knowing thats bad is not a small mistake.


_Modified by EdsGTI at 11:04 AM 3-13-2007_


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (EdsGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EdsGTI* »_im bitter lol?, try concerned i do this on a regular basis. i read through all 6 pages and some of the stuff is scary. I speak to almost everyone on this forum and i was told to go to this thread some were in shock. Sorry sav, i wish you the best of luck, but putting together a motor dry and not knowing thats bad is not a small mistake.

who you speak with on this forum is irrelevant! if you are so concerned why don't you point out what you'd change that is so scary instead of a put down of "can't wait to see your built motor is blown thread"....that shows that you aren't concerned just a useless comment


----------



## EdsGTI (Mar 9, 2003)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
who you speak with on this forum is irrelevant! if you are so concerned why don't you point out what you'd change that is so scary instead of a put down of "can't wait to see your built motor is blown thread"....that shows that you aren't concerned just a useless comment

i just saw the thread today, and the one thing he posted about the rod bearings is MAJOR if you think its not, you have no idea. Im not there, so i dont see the progression of things. Just cause it *looks good* doesnt mean it will work. Anyone that knows me knows i am the first person to help out, give out info for free and lend my time and energy out for nothing. So saying that i hope he does a GOOD once over on anything, because the last thing i want is for him to destroy his motor, or use the wrong grade material on something like a fuel or oil line and set himself and others on fire.


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (EdsGTI)*

<popcorn>


----------



## EdsGTI (Mar 9, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_Oh...








Well hey question: What fuse is for the fuel pump? You think it's a good idea to pull it and crank the motor over a couple times so the oil gets in and around everywhere and then plug the fues back in and start it up?

pull the injector clips, takes 2 seconds. You are supposed to do that when you install a new turbo as well to lubricate the feed line and CHRA


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (EdsGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EdsGTI* »_
i just saw the thread today, and the one thing he posted about the rod bearings is MAJOR if you think its not, you have no idea. Im not there, so i dont see the progression of things. Just cause it *looks good* doesnt mean it will work. Anyone that knows me knows i am the first person to help out, *give out info for free* and lend my time and energy out for nothing. So saying that i hope he does a GOOD once over on anything, because the last thing i want is for him to destroy his motor, or use the wrong grade material on something like a fuel or oil line and set himself and others on fire.

people charge for information? isn't that what this website is about?
this isn't about you and me, I do think the bearings is a major deal and can show you pictures of my motor if you REALLY want to see it, BUT it was already addressed...so what's your point now?


----------



## EdsGTI (Mar 9, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_The package of assembly lube said for ARP 2000 rod bolts...so I thought well that must be just for putting on the threads of the bolts.







The crank was still oily but as a safegaurd we're gonna just drop the pan and lube the bearings with the assembly lube. I know it was dumb. Jason your post was a day late. I'll fix it though.
Oh and bobqzzi told me those ARP2000 bolts can be used more than once. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

You should always lube any bearing with the appropriate lube, i use a mic on the bearings, then plastigauge everthing. I rotate the crank upon adding each additional rod/piston combo.
Just to add Scat rods are not machined as well as say a pauter, if you accidentally flip a cap around, it will not spin over. So make sure all of the part numbers line up they way there were originally setup with the electric pencil markings. The tangs should be on the same side and facing the intake side of the motor.


----------



## EdsGTI (Mar 9, 2003)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
people charge for information? isn't that what this website is about?
this isn't about you and me, I do think the bearings is a major deal and can show you pictures of my motor if you REALLY want to see it, BUT it was already addressed...so what's your point now?


I run a business, so do many others on here. Im not just a dude drinking beers slapping **** together for fun.
And just to *help out* i will post on whatever i see in the next 5 min to *help out*


----------



## EdsGTI (Mar 9, 2003)

Also in my personal experience i use permatex black sealant, the GM stuff, factory vw sealant leaks if you dont follow the drying/tqing procedure


----------



## EdsGTI (Mar 9, 2003)

_Quote, originally posted by *UntouchableGTI* »_i love how noone ever takes the time to build a motor right, it blows my mind.


its funny how no one flamed him? im 22, and guess what ill pwn your ass
age should never be a determining factor on anyones attitude, experience or talent.


----------



## arch_ed0421 (Aug 12, 2004)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

you SAVwKO...are saw your DIY thread for removing parts.
are you gonna have one for the Timing Belt Kit??
Nice Job by the way


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (EdsGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EdsGTI* »_
its funny how no one flamed him? im 22, and guess what ill pwn your ass
age should never be a determining factor on anyones attitude, experience or talent.

he did get flamed and there was another thread...don't feel singled out...we bash all on =id?27


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (EdsGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EdsGTI* »_Also in my personal experience i use permatex black sealant, the GM stuff, factory vw sealant leaks if you dont follow the drying/tqing procedure


regular orange colored copper sealant won't leak either...plus there is a gasket for the oil pan that bobqzzi can provide


----------



## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_

regular orange colored copper sealant won't leak either...plus there is a gasket for the oil pan that bobqzzi can provide

we used the factory vw sealant, i've used it personally numerous times and its never leaked on me.


----------



## 18JettaPower (Oct 24, 2004)

*Re: (EdsGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EdsGTI* »_

its funny how no one flamed him? im 22, and guess what ill pwn your ass
age should never be a determining factor on anyones attitude, experience or talent.

I think you just came in to this thread wrong... One you dont talk to everyone cause I dont think I have every talked to you and i'm always on the tex. Two i'm only 21 and I build my own engines. And three you all need to just calm down. We have all seen spun bearings and what not. 1.8t cranks are a dime a dozen. Yea we reather not see this happen but **** happens and he is learning. I am sure his car will be just fine and put down more power them most people with the same setup. i know Sawvko and he is a good guy and knows his stuff.
Also scat rod's have locking tabs for there bearings just an FYI


----------



## tqmb5 (Feb 19, 2007)

how do you like these rods, are these 144mm with 19mm wriste pin correct?


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (18JettaPower)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18JettaPower* »_

Also scat rod's have locking tabs for there bearings just an FYI

thats where mike screwed up...he didn't run scats. he ran ebay rods. they use AWP bearings with no keyway. agreed though, mike is learning. it's his girlfriends car, so he is making sure everything is done right moreso than if it were his car. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: (mirror)*

i learnedby breaking rings and scrapping the bore woot woot.... or it was just the stupud strap-on gay ring compressor http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (O2VW1.8T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *O2VW1.8T* »_stupud strap-on gay ring 

huh?


----------



## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: (mirror)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mirror* »_
huh?
















lmao strap-on = snap-on


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (mirror)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mirror* »_
thats where mike screwed up...he didn't run scats. he ran ebay rods. they use AWP bearings with no keyway. agreed though, mike is learning. it's his girlfriends car, so he is making sure everything is done right moreso than if it were his car. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Ja as much as I appreciate your help, this is where I would love to prove you wrong. I'm well aware of Scat's "name" and Pauter. I honestly think that if stock rods can handle around 330-340hp (zach's before he threw in Scats), then the IE's can definitely handle 400 easy. I am not worried at all about the rods. And I think once they DO work for me, Pete won't have to list them on eBay to get them "out there" b/c others will see that they can handle the power levels I'll be at, hopefully be at...and they won't be considered "ebay rods." This is just optimism speaking of course...I'm talking like it's already been on the dyno but I'm confident that I didn't make the WRONG decision by not going scat's with AEB pistons. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (O2VW1.8T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *O2VW1.8T* »_
lmao strap-on = snap-on

finish the your damn car btw. i want to see it rip! (please, please BT 1.8t)


----------



## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: (VW1990CORRADO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VW1990CORRADO* »_
finish the your damn car btw. i want to see it rip! (please, please BT 1.8t)









yeah yeah yeah, maybe by the end of the year it will be done.. Gotta see if the alignment is in spec if so i will move forward if not i'll buy a R32 shell and swap everything over


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_
Ja as much as I appreciate your help, this is where I would love to prove you wrong. I'm well aware of Scat's "name" and Pauter. I honestly think that if stock rods can handle around 330-340hp (zach's before he threw in Scats), then the IE's can definitely handle 400 easy. I am not worried at all about the rods. And I think once they DO work for me, Pete won't have to list them on eBay to get them "out there" b/c others will see that they can handle the power levels I'll be at, hopefully be at...and they won't be considered "ebay rods." This is just optimism speaking of course...I'm talking like it's already been on the dyno but I'm confident that I didn't make the WRONG decision by not going scat's with AEB pistons. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

dude, it takes years. just remember that. it's not as easy as running a quick number on the dyno and saying "yup, they held...they're good". if that was the case, you had no reason to swap out the oems, cause they've held 550whp. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (mirror)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mirror* »_
dude, it takes years. just remember that. it's not as easy as running a quick number on the dyno and saying "yup, they held...they're good". if that was the case, you had no reason to swap out the oems, cause they've held 550whp. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

not only that, but eurospec advertises their rods as being stronger and they have deff. failed...only time will tell what these will do...thanks for being the guinea pig mike


----------



## Shamrock (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_

regular orange colored copper sealant won't leak either...plus there is a gasket for the oil pan that bobqzzi can provide

I dont know if they are the same or not but I used a copper gasket with a rubber bead around it, i guess made in germany and that was a pain in the ass to install the transmission bolts.. fitment was well and hasnt leaked but damn took me like an 45 mins on each bolt


----------



## EdsGTI (Mar 9, 2003)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_not only that, but eurospec advertises their rods as being stronger and they have deff. failed...only time will tell what these will do...thanks for being the guinea pig mike









i hear that, eurospec stuff scares me, i have pretty much seen all of their internal engine parts fail. Ive seen spun bearings on cyl 2 on 2 different 100mm cranks at the same machine shop. The journals were different sizes from the get-go and needed over sized bearings.
The cam gears come loose, the rods break, the girdles dont fit right, the springs break, the lifters from what i am told dont have hard enough of a rockwell rating (i dont know much about that) 
The only rod ive never seen fail, even when doing a long search is a pauter. I have melted several pistons, and the rods are still going strong http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Don R (Oct 4, 2002)

*Re: (EdsGTI)*

I've seen Pauters fail...


----------



## EdsGTI (Mar 9, 2003)

*Re: (Shamrock)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Shamrock* »_I dont know if they are the same or not but I used a copper gasket with a rubber bead around it, i guess made in germany and that was a pain in the ass to install the transmission bolts.. fitment was well and hasnt leaked but damn took me like an 45 mins on each bolt

on the 6 speed cars its much easier to put those bolts in since the fw isnt tight agains the rear seal/oil pan. Also ive had factory vw sealant leak. Ive had other people use it and have it leak. The only stuff ive ever used without 1 failure is the Permatex Black GM stuff, ive used it on the outer cam cap, valve cover areas, trannys, oil pans, etc. Never saw a drop and it cleans up easy as well.
PLUS its 5$ a tube vs the 20 something dollar vw tube...


----------



## EdsGTI (Mar 9, 2003)

*Re: (Don R)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Don R* »_I've seen Pauters fail...










break? or like wrist pin bushing go bad. if uve seen one break shoot me a pic on aim tomorrow.


----------



## Don R (Oct 4, 2002)

*Re: (EdsGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EdsGTI* »_

break? or like wrist pin bushing go bad. if uve seen one break shoot me a pic on aim tomorrow.

Break in half


----------



## 1.8TRabbit (Nov 15, 2004)

*Re: (Don R)*

nice build! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (Don R)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Don R* »_I've seen Pauters fail...









x2. local with a 240sx sr20 swap snapped one.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (EdsGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EdsGTI* »_The cam gears come loose

I've seen one snap in 3 pieces...scary stuff with any head


----------



## EdsGTI (Mar 9, 2003)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
I've seen one snap in 3 pieces...scary stuff with any head

rofl, i would fly out to eurospec and beat someone with it cause you know they probably didnt make good for it. Oh installer error installer error.


----------



## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

*Re: (EdsGTI)*

update: , the engine runs and idles smoothly.
compression test should come tomorrow


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (igotaprestent4u)*

^Tis true...vid to follow shorty.


----------



## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

redline and nothing less..


----------



## UntouchableGTI (Apr 30, 2006)

*Re: (EdsGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EdsGTI* »_im bitter lol?, try concerned i do this on a regular basis. i read through all 6 pages and some of the stuff is scary. I speak to almost everyone on this forum and i was told to go to this thread some were in shock. Sorry sav, i wish you the best of luck, but putting together a motor dry and not knowing thats bad is not a small mistake.

_Modified by EdsGTI at 11:04 AM 3-13-2007_

your speaking to deaf ears, i tried telling them the right way to build a motor and got ish for it, dont waste ur time on them they obviously like to do half arsed things and they will learn one day


----------



## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

*Re: (UntouchableGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *UntouchableGTI* »_
your speaking to deaf ears, i tried telling them the right way to build a motor and got ish for it, dont waste ur time on them they obviously like to do half arsed things and they will learn one day

that must be why you havent even broke 300whp yet


----------



## GT-ER (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: (O2VW1.8T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *O2VW1.8T* »_redline and nothing less.. 

LOL... I HONESTLY agree.
Also, Mike made a mistake with the oiling part of the bearings...so what, he fixed it. Everyone makes mistakes and this is his first time. At least he is doing it himself ( with help which is just as fine ). 
Either way... I have faith in the rods. They have held 300whp daily for maybe 6 months on a local GTI that has them installed with no problems. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (GT-ER)*

_Modified by SAVwKO at 8:08 PM 3-7-2008_


----------



## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

that was a bit scary. no oil filter on startup? i think you guys were rushing a bit and didnt thoroughly look everything over. 
though i have a few drop leak from the coolant feed to last night on my initial startup. thats an easy fix.


----------



## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

*Re: (VW1990CORRADO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VW1990CORRADO* »_that was a bit scary. no oil filter on startup? i think you guys were rushing a bit and didnt thoroughly look everything over. 
though i have a few drop leak from the coolant feed to last night on my initial startup. thats an easy fix. 

i wasn't there for startup to keep sav under control


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (VW1990CORRADO)*

Yea lil bit...but atleast that was an easy fix. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I'd also like to thank Don for recommending that Lucas Oil Stabilizer. May or may not have helped but for whatever it's worth I think any/all tips we've received that got the motor running as is have been key. Thanks ya'll.


----------



## j0hnnybmx (Oct 18, 2004)

yeah. it was kinda scary/stupid.. it's all good now though. i have a lot of faith in this engine that it's going to hold strong for a long time.


----------



## GT-ER (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: (igotaprestent4u)*

HOLY ISHT!! You guys are crazy. LOL...


----------



## UntouchableGTI (Apr 30, 2006)

*Re: (igotaprestent4u)*


_Quote, originally posted by *igotaprestent4u* »_
that must be why you havent even broke 300whp yet









or because i havent ever upgraded to a bt yet, dick


----------



## carbide01 (Jul 12, 2003)

no assembly lube, starting with no oil filter? *cringe*.


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (carbide01)*

after careful consideration, i would like it to be known, i don't know this kid.








no oil filter? WTF?







wrap that feed line too. you can thank me later.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (mirror)*

lol wrap it with what?


----------



## EdsGTI (Mar 9, 2003)

this


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (EdsGTI)*

For the oil feed line? What is that stuff?


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_For the oil feed line? What is that stuff?

yes, for the oil feed. you can get it from summitracing. it's heat wrap. i noticed the feed in your pics, but from the angles, it was pretty tough to figure out if it truly was close to the manifold. from the vid, it is. wrap it, or you'll find another oil leak and a dangerous situation when that line ruptures and spews oil all over your blazing red manifold. 


_Modified by mirror at 5:50 AM 3-15-2007_


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (mirror)*

Alright thanks...I'll pick some up on my way to Avon tomorrow. I'll take some more engine bay shots later and post em up. See if there's anything else you think I should be worried about. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## GT-ER (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

Avon you say?


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (GT-ER)*

Yea Avon = sexy time


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_Yea Avon = sexy time









better than rubbing one off.








chicka-chicka-bong bong BONG!!!!!


----------



## 18JettaPower (Oct 24, 2004)

Glad to see it's running, and I can't wait to see this thing on the street. I hope my car starts and runs that good when its all said and done


----------



## axlekiller (Oct 16, 2006)

*Re: (18JettaPower)*

Still need those rod bearing tolerance specs?


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (axlekiller)*

Nah


----------



## TheMunky (Sep 21, 2004)

Can't wait to see this done! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## GT-ER (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: (axlekiller)*


_Quote, originally posted by *axlekiller* »_Still need those rod bearing tolerance specs?









Who cares about that...








I wanna see some redlining videos...and maybe some 2nd gear wheel spin videos.








Hey Mike, I guess you are the guy that has SAVKO written on the back of his shirt huh?










_Modified by GT-ER at 9:56 AM 3-15-2007_


----------



## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

*Re: (GT-ER)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GT-ER* »_
Who cares about that...








I wanna see some redlining videos...and maybe some 2nd gear wheel spin videos.








Hey Mike, I guess you are the guy that has SAVKO written on the back of his shirt huh?









_Modified by GT-ER at 9:56 AM 3-15-2007_

i got lifeguard written on the back of mine


----------



## 4cedboost (Jul 16, 2006)

*Re: (igotaprestent4u)*

so when r we gonna run it against the ZL1000?


----------



## 4cedboost (Jul 16, 2006)

*Re: (4cedboost)*

i miss my car


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (4cedboost)*

Just got the compression test done...
Cyl 1 - 176
Cyl 2 - 176
Cyl 3 - 177
Cyl 4 - 176
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif







Happy bout that.








Also, the battery light came on last night. I suspect that the battery is just close to dying. It was dead from sitting all winter so I put a massive charge on it at work before I installed it. What I'm worried is the alternator may be bad from it getting polished. I'm sure he didn't touch the wires with his tools but just in case...there an easy way to test it on the car in the meantime? It's a big PITA to get it off as some of you already know so hopefully we just need a new battery.


----------



## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

yea there are some ways to test it
first start by seeing how many volts the battery is putting out

good numbers on the compression test


----------



## SHUMopper (Jan 2, 2002)

*Re: (igotaprestent4u)*

great numbers on the comp test
nice deal sav's, you boys did some nice work.


----------



## bwell01 (Oct 17, 2004)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_Just got the compression test done...
Cyl 1 - 176
Cyl 2 - 176
Cyl 3 - 177
Cyl 4 - 176
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif







Happy bout that.








Also, the battery light came on last night. I suspect that the battery is just close to dying. It was dead from sitting all winter so I put a massive charge on it at work before I installed it. What I'm worried is the alternator may be bad from it getting polished. *I'm sure he didn't touch the wires with his tools but just in case...there an easy way to test it on the car in the meantime? * It's a big PITA to get it off as some of you already know so hopefully we just need a new battery.

the old skool way should work...
1. start the car
2. remove the negative battery cable

** if the car dies its the altenator
** if the car keeps running its the battery
that was how you could find out on older model cars. in theory it should work on all cars but todays tech with all these fuse panels and circuit breakers and capacitors might have an effect.


_Modified by bwell01 at 11:46 AM 3-15-2007_


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (bwell01)*

Yea I don't like that idea personally







There's gotta be like a multimeter test or something that Auto Zone does but I can do with it still on the car.


----------



## bwell01 (Oct 17, 2004)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_Yea I don't like that idea personally







There's gotta be like a multimeter test or something that Auto Zone does but I can do with it still on the car.

ha. lol its safe... just remember to take off the negative cable. if the alternator is doing its job then the car will continue to run. if not then you will know your problem. it only takes like 2 mins. you can even try it under load by leaving the negative off and driving a few hundred meters.
my battery died in my 318i in germany and i was about 15 mins from home so with the battery out i jumped the car and drove home batteryless.







made it all the way there through a little town called weiderstadt http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (bwell01)*

sounds like a loose ground. check all of them.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (mirror)*

Well I just did the test and the car shut off. So...looks like the alternator is ****ty. Luckily I have the one that came off her car in the first place. I'll take that to Auto Zone and make sure it's good. Then, I'll remove this one and try and swap the guts out so I keep the polished outer part.


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_Well I just did the test and the car shut off. So...looks like the alternator is ****ty. Luckily I have the one that came off her car in the first place. I'll take that to Auto Zone and make sure it's good. Then, I'll remove this one and try and swap the guts out so I keep the polished outer part.

what makes you say this? the altenator provides juice to the battery. the battery provides juice to the car. the altenator doesn't proved direct juice to the car. check your terminal and grounds.


----------



## TyrolSport (Mar 4, 1999)

*Re: (mirror)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mirror* »_
what makes you say this? the altenator provides juice to the battery. the battery provides juice to the car. the altenator doesn't proved direct juice to the car. check your terminal and grounds. 

Try disconnecting the battery while the car is running.


----------



## Miyagisan (Aug 6, 2005)

*Re: (Don R)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Don R* »_They increase frequency and alter the harmonic balancing of the crankshaft.
If you beleive otherwise then by all means enjoy them










_Quote »_4) "Is my crank pulley a harmonic/torsional/vibration damper or a harmonic balancer?"
People are getting their crank pulleys confused with the harmonic dampers found on some V6 / V8 engines. "Harmonic Balancer" is a term used loosely in the automotive industry. Technically, this type of device does not exist. The "balancer" part comes from engines that are externally balanced and have a counterweight cast into the damper, hence the merging of the two terms. None of the applications we offer use a counterweight as part of the pulley, as these engines are all internally balanced.
The pulleys on most of the new import and smaller domestic engines have an elastomer (rubber ring) incorporated into the pulley that makes them look similar to a harmonic damper. The elastomer in the OEM pulley serves as an isolator, which is there to suppress natural vibration and noise from the engine itself, the A/C compressor, P/S pump, and alternator. This is what the manufacturers call NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) when referring to noticeable noise and vibration in the passenger compartment. It is important to note in these applications, the elastomer is inadequate in size and durability to act as an effective torsional damper. If you look at the pulleys on some imports there is no rubber to be found at all. We have samples of these, mostly from Acura/Honda, the Nissan Altima, 1.8L Eclipse, 2.3L Fords, Chrysler 2.2L's, and 1.8L VW's, to mention a few. This is not to say with our pulleys you will hear a ton of noise or feel more vibration from your engine compartment. Most owners who have installed our pulleys notice the engine actually feels smoother. This is result of replacing the heavy crank pulley with our crank pulley. NVH is variable and unique to every car. NVH will increase with the installation of an aftermarket intake and/or exhaust, for example. Think of OEM intake systems in newer cars, they use baffles and resonators in the intake to quiet all the intake noise. Aftermarket intakes eliminate these resonators and create dramatic increases in engine noise from the throttle opening and closing. So to most tuners, certain types of NVH can make the driving experience more enjoyable.
The purpose of a traditional harmonic damper is to protect against crank failure from torsional movement. This is not necessary in most modern engines because of the many advances in engine design and materials. Factors such as stroke length, displacement, inline, V configurations, piston dwell time, piston pin off-set, power output, etc., do determine when and how these harmonics and torsional movements occur.
Again, there is a lot of internet hearsay about crank pulleys. When engine problems occur, too often people are quick to blame the pulley first, rather than taking the time to look logically into why there was a problem. We hope that after reading this you will understand the crank pulleys better.
5) "Will Unorthodox Racing lightened pulleys cause an oil pump failure?"
Urban myths have been floating around about Honda oil pumps failing by using an Unorthodox Racing crank pulley/s. The real fact is that these OEM pumps have been failing with AND WITHOUT the use of our pulleys and before our crank pulley/s were available on the market. Also note that these failures are few and far in between.
The Acura/Honda oil pumps are excellent units, but there are a number of reasons for the failures that do occur.
Most of the oil pump failures have been in Acura/Honda B series 1.6/1.8L applications. The Mazda 1.6/1.8L applications have seen a few failures, as well as the new Ford Focus ZETEC in race vehicles. Again, note that on all these applications the oil pump failures have occurred on engines not using our pulley, using the stock crank pulley.
These pump failures can be linked to the following causes. These causes may act individually or in combination to cause the actual failures:
* The gears used in many pumps including those in the Honda B series engines and Mazda Miata engines are of a low-cost powdered metal composition. The factory uses this metal because of its acceptable cost-to-strength ratio. The problem is, these parts are not always deburred properly from the factory and when pushed to their limits can and do fail.
* Many times additional stress is added to the oil pump by using oil thicker than what is specified by the manufacturer. The oil pump and bearing clearances were not designed from the factory to push oil of higher viscosities. This extra stress on the gears, combined with the above mentioned poor deburring process, can attribute to oil pump failure or engine failure.
* Another contributing factor to oil pump failures is the weak cast backing plate of the B16/B18 oil pumps. Simple inspection shows that when compared to an H22 oil pump, a screw is not present in a critical location of the plate in the B series pumps. Compound this with the use of a higher viscosity motor oil and poorly deburred pump components and you have the ingredients for an oil pump failure.
* This issue, specific to the Mazda 1.6/1.8L engines, involves the flex of the crankshaft and the lower half of the engine due to the additional stress of a forced induction system (such as a turbo or supercharger). The additional stress produced by forced induction causes flexing of both the block and the crankshaft between the front main bearing and the oil pump. This can also contribute to oil pump failure. Early Miatas were notorious for having crankshaft problems and later models suffered from problems as power is increased significantly.
* Lastly, any failure inside a motor, related to aging components or a poor engine rebuild, can cause the oil pump to fail. ANY particles passing through an oil pump design such as that used in the Honda B series engines will cause damage or failure. 
Remember that oil pump failures happen regularly on engines using a factory crank pulley. To help combat these failures, a few steps should be taken to help prolong the life of your oil pump and engine:
* Unless building a race motor with race clearances in mind, you should always use an oil viscosity matching, or as close to the factory recommendations as possible.
* If using a factory oil pump, always have your oil pump components deburred properly. It is recommended you have a competent engine rebuilder handle this.
* For those who run dedicated / extreme race vehicles we recommend using an external wet or dry sump oiling system. These systems are designed for the heavy abuse a race engine receives on the track. Remember, the stock oiling systems were designed for factory horsepower levels and can only handle a certain amount of power increase over that level.
* Lastly and most obvious, have a competent, trusted machine or performance shop rebuild your precious motor. It only takes one simple mistake to turn a costly engine rebuild into a doorstop. 
If you have any other questions about this subject please don't hesitate to give us a call or drop us an e-mail. We take great pride in the craftsmanship of our products and are constantly striving to provide the highest quality products available to you, our customers.

6) "Will these pulleys cause premature engine bearing wear?"
This is a fear many prospective owners have and is a valid concern since we are dealing directly with the rotating assembly. Fortunately it is another urban myth with no basis in fact. The fact is our pulleys have the opposite effect on engine bearings. The combination of tight tolerances, precise quality control, perfect balance, and dramatic weight loss versus the stock pulleys reduces stress loads on your engine, extending the service life of your engine. Engine bearing problems are purely associated to poor engine maintenance, use of heavier than factory recommended oils, improper engine building practices (which includes poor balancing), excessively revving of engines when they are cold, and owners expecting their factory oil pumps to handle engine power outputs beyond 3, 4, even 5+ times the stock power levels.


----------



## turbotuner20V (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (tyrolkid)*

i've never heard of anyone successfully taking apart those alternators and putting them back together in working condition.


----------



## greasyginzo (Apr 18, 2006)

you could have started the car and put a volt meter to the battery if it was reading around 14.4v then your alt is good if its around 12v its shot.


----------



## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: (greasyginzo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *greasyginzo* »_you could have started the car and put a volt meter to the battery if it was reading around 14.4v then your alt is good if its around 12v its shot.

yeah was about to post this


----------



## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

I believe i said to check the battery voltage about 20 posts ago


----------



## GT-ER (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: (turbotuner20V)*


_Quote, originally posted by *turbotuner20V* »_i've never heard of anyone successfully taking apart those alternators and putting them back together in working condition.

My brother did it all the time in his shop.... don't ask me how though.








As for disconnecting the leads to the battery to see if it's the alternator or the battery. This will not work on ALL cars. I don't know if VW is one of them or not but some cars use the battery as part of the circuit, even if the alternator is good the car will turn off because the circuit is open when you disconnect the battery.


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (tyrolkid)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tyrolkid* »_
Try disconnecting the battery while the car is running. 

ummmm...why? this isn't the 70's man. grab your vid recorder, and try it out.


----------



## Tetzuoe (Nov 30, 2005)

*Re: (mirror)*

looks like its time to go over the haynes manual circuit diagrams....
my advice is to drink a whole pot of coffee before you start.


----------



## EdsGTI (Mar 9, 2003)

*Re: (Tetzuoe)*

check the grounds. If they are fine, take a multimeter and go from the alternator power to a chassis ground (unpainted bolt, i use the one on the rad support to fender) If thats under 13.8-14.5v i would then check the battery. Its possible you have a bad alternator. It could be a ton of other things. Easiest way is take a battery from another car, or swap batterys with one of your buddies. This will tell you immediately.


----------



## GT-ER (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: (EdsGTI)*

Easiest way is with a Multimeter ( Voltimeter ).


----------



## shum28 (Dec 1, 2004)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

Newer disconect the battery while the car is running. The battery controls (regulates) the voltage spikes that the alternator is producing and one of those will kill the computer real quic. 
Get a volt meter, conect it to a pos and neg battery cables, turn everything in the car ON (blower, AC, high beam, 4ways, stepn the brake) get the motor to 2000 RPMs and if the voltage drops below 13v - replace alternator if not, the alt is fine.
That is a really good way to check the alt, outside using the charging system tester.








Good luck


----------



## fast_a2_20v (Jun 25, 2004)

*Re: (mirror)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mirror* »_
ummmm...why? this isn't the 70's man. grab your vid recorder, and try it out.









actually, it does work fine. I've seen people use an idling car as a battery charger to charge up dead batteries before.








So yes, this test works fine and is quick and easy.


----------



## GT-ER (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: (fast_a2_20v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *fast_a2_20v* »_actually, it does work fine. I've seen people use an idling car as a battery charger to charge up dead batteries before.








So yes, this test works fine and is quick and easy. 

In the Grand Prix I had the car would just turn off without the battery. I havn't tried it in the GTI though. I figured all modern cars were the same.


----------



## sandiegobmx (Mar 10, 2004)

Am I the only one who wouldn't even admit being stupid enough to start a car without an oil filter, let alone post a video of it?


----------



## Don R (Oct 4, 2002)

*Re: (Miyagisan)*

*Miyagisan*
I work very closely with Unitronic to tuning these 1.8T's on Me7 and my experiences/findings state otherwise. Take it FWIW http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by Don R at 8:14 AM 3-16-2007_


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

*Re: (Don R)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Don R* »_*Miyagisan*
I work very closely with Unitronic to tuning these 1.8T's on Me7 and my experiences/findings state otherwise. Take it FWIW http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by Don R at 8:14 AM 3-16-2007_

Wonder if i make my own company, put out a prooduct called sphinkter valves, say it makes 20whp, people will take my word for it and buy it?????


----------



## Don R (Oct 4, 2002)

*Re: (T-Boy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *T-Boy* »_
Wonder if i make my own company, put out a prooduct called sphinkter valves, say it makes 20whp, people will take my word for it and buy it?????

LMAO!


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (sandiegobmx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sandiegobmx* »_Am I the only one who wouldn't even admit being stupid enough to start a car without an oil filter, let alone post a video of it?

You need to chillax bud. Seriously, it's not THAT big of a deal.
I'm loving the 50k explanations of what to do to test the alternator.







Ugh gonna do some tests today.


----------



## Miyagisan (Aug 6, 2005)

*Re: (Don R)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Don R* »_*Miyagisan*
I work very closely with Unitronic to tuning these 1.8T's on Me7 and my experiences/findings state otherwise. Take it FWIW http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

I didn't say anything, just putting the information out there. People can conclude whatever they want from what they read. I just find it peculiar that products the rest of the tuning community uses with good results magically don't work on 1.8t's.


----------



## foffa2002 (Jan 14, 2003)

*Re: (Miyagisan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Miyagisan* »_
I didn't say anything, just putting the information out there. People can conclude whatever they want from what they read. I just find it peculiar that products the rest of the tuning community uses with good results magically don't work on 1.8t's. 

Looks like Unortodox never tried to pick apart a VW crank pulley and check out the rubber interia of the OEM 2 piece crank pulley.
Sometimes its more the the eye can see








I have som pics of my oem euro pulley when i picked it appart .


----------



## Don R (Oct 4, 2002)

*Re: (Miyagisan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Miyagisan* »_
I didn't say anything, just putting the information out there. People can conclude whatever they want from what they read. I just find it peculiar that products the rest of the tuning community uses with good results magically don't work on 1.8t's. 

Agreed...and I wasn't picking on you. I knew you cut and pasted it


----------



## Don R (Oct 4, 2002)

*Re: (foffa2002)*


_Quote, originally posted by *foffa2002* »_
Looks like Unortodox never tried to pick apart a VW crank pulley and check out the rubber interia of the OEM 2 piece crank pulley.
Sometimes its more the the eye can see








I have som pics of my oem euro pulley when i picked it appart .

I<3 Foffa http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (Don R)*

Just picked up a voltmeter from Auto Zone. I brought the other alternator that I KNOW is good but they couldn't test it for some reason.







So, I'll check the voltage across the battery with it at idle, and I'll check the amperage thru the alternator on the car and report back. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

Ok...here's the results.
Battery Voltage:
Car off: 12.23V
Idle: 11.75V
Alternator Amperage: 24.9A
So what's bad? Battery or alternator?


----------



## foffa2002 (Jan 14, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_Ok...here's the results.
Battery Voltage:
Car off: 12.23V
Idle: 11.75V
Alternator Amperage: 24.9A
So what's bad? Battery or alternator?


What does VAG-COM say about voltage ?
if its ok then you can rule out alternator


----------



## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_Ok...here's the results.
Battery Voltage:
Car off: 12.23V
Idle: 11.75V
Alternator Amperage: 24.9A
So what's bad? Battery or alternator?

alt is most likely bad...


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (O2VW1.8T)*

Well first things first I'm gonna check out the grounds cuz Don's telling me a bad ground can draw from the battery as well. So I'll see how the wiring looks...hopefully thats all it is. I'll snap some shots too and make sure they look right. If grounds are good...looks like I'll be attempting to swap alternator guts today.


----------



## greasyginzo (Apr 18, 2006)

My money is on the alt bro. Your way low on volts.


----------



## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: (Don R)*

gotta ask a stupid question but if your serp belt on


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (O2VW1.8T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *O2VW1.8T* »_gotta ask a stupid question but if your serp belt on









LOL LOL!!!







Yes it is Pete








Anyways...here's what we're looking at. First, hot wire on alternator:

Followed it across and it comes up to here:

So that seems to be fine. Now the grounds...under the battery they attach to the chassis here:

One goes up to the negative battery terminal, and the other goes to the tranny here:

So those all look alright...any other wires that could possibly cause a bad ground? If not looks like it's time to pull the alternator.


----------



## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (foffa2002)*

as long as the serp belt is on, and alt hooked up. i say alt. should be colser to 13v running.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (VW1990CORRADO)*

Lol Pete now that I think about it...I had that pulley off and I put it back on. I'll go start it back up and make sure the alternator is spinning and not just the pulley, which IIRC it was fine but might as well check that one last thing before I pull this out.


----------



## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*








slow down and stop rushing. look everything threw!


----------



## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

*Re: (VW1990CORRADO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VW1990CORRADO* »_







slow down and stop rushing. look everything threw!

dude mike isnt rushing at all, the car doesnt even have wheels on it


----------



## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (igotaprestent4u)*


_Quote, originally posted by *igotaprestent4u* »_
dude mike isnt rushing at all, the car doesnt even have wheels on it









i am not trying to be a punk, but if youre cranking it with no oil filter, starting it with possibly no filter, or pully not on there are some things being over looked not to mention the rod issue..


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (VW1990CORRADO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VW1990CORRADO* »_
i am not trying to be a punk, but if youre cranking it with no oil filter, starting it with possibly no filter, or pully not on there are some things being over looked not to mention the rod issue..









maybe you should be more concerned about your own car and getting it together...you can be a non punk by non posting


----------



## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

*Re: (VW1990CORRADO)*

mike must have smoked a big one or something since i've been gone


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (igotaprestent4u)*


_Quote, originally posted by *igotaprestent4u* »_mike must have smoked a big one or something since i've been gone









stop. neither of you had experience in building a motor....


----------



## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
maybe you should be more concerned about your own car and getting it together...you can be a non punk by non posting

i am doing just fine. its allready idled.. and heatcycled.
i was just trying to offer some advice to check everytihng over a couple times. esp before starting it. its a big investment....


----------



## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

*Re: (mirror)*

i have pretty good oil filter experiences








i have rebuilt engines, however they were 1 cylinders







, and 1 B16


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (igotaprestent4u)*


_Quote, originally posted by *igotaprestent4u* »_i have pretty good oil filter experiences








i have rebuilt engines, however they were 1 cylinders







, and 1 B16























i have built more 2/4 stroke motors than i will ever admit. don't remind me on the bearing carrier honda placed in the '85-'89 250r 3 and 4 wheelers.









_Quote, originally posted by *VW1990CORRADO* »_
i am doing just fine. its allready idled.. and heatcycled.
i was just trying to offer some advice to check everytihng over a couple times. esp before starting it. its a big investment....

it's already over. you're preaching to the choir now man. let it go.


----------



## bwell01 (Oct 17, 2004)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_Ok...here's the results.
Battery Voltage:
Car off: 12.23V
Idle: 11.75V
Alternator Amperage: 24.9A
*So what's bad? Battery or alternator?*

as told by the first test. i would think its the altenator also. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif keep it pimpin chattam county http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## fast_a2_20v (Jun 25, 2004)

If your system voltage is ~12 and falling while the car idles and it doesn't creep up- your alternator is toast.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (fast_a2_20v)*

Ok got the alternator off...now taking it apart. Stay tuned for pics of it. I've gotten all the case-case bolts off but it won't pry apart any further. Need to know what else to unbolt and what can stay. BRB


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

Ok heres the pics of how far I got:




Got it pried apart but it won't go any further. I took the pulley off thinking it was holding it back but it's not. Now I'm looking at those 4 lil screws that are in the flange where the pulley side is...perhaps those are holding it together? I don't really know. Nice thing about taking apart the ****ty alternator first is if I screw it up...who cares


----------



## sandiegobmx (Mar 10, 2004)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_You need to chillax bud. Seriously, it's not THAT big of a deal.

Chillax is the worst word ever to come out of California and get used by the rest of the country...long after we realized it was retarded.
Edit: Hope the car runs well.


_Modified by sandiegobmx at 6:49 PM 3-16-2007_


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (sandiegobmx)*

It's one of those words I never use unless it pops into my head.










Now what? I'm lost and honestly am scared of even trying to disassemble the good one that's NOT polished.


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

screw the polish, put the one that works in, and get things going right.


----------



## Durbo20vT (Apr 30, 2006)

*Re: (T-Boy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *T-Boy* »_screw the polish, put the one that works in, and get things going right.

thats right. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif when it comes down to it, function > form... throw the good one on and enjoy the work you have done.


----------



## bwell01 (Oct 17, 2004)

*Re: (T-Boy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *T-Boy* »_screw the polish, put the one that works in, and get things going right.

what he said








put on the good one and order a polished one later http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: (bwell01)*

or just tape off the holes and spray the new one with chrome paint or something..


----------



## Tetzuoe (Nov 30, 2005)

*Re: (O2VW1.8T)*








send me the shells and ill powder coat em... flat black...


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (Tetzuoe)*

Got the other one on... back up to 13.xx volts and it should go up higher once we drive it. Pissed about it but w/e...I'll get it done later on just glad the car runs. Also got the hotside IC piping mocked up and taking it to my polisher tonight to get turned into one whole piece. Sunday I'll have it back on and I'd say by Wednesday the car will be streetable. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

As far as heat wrap goes...I'd like to wrap the charge pipe coming off the turbo and possibly also the DP. Can regular old heat wrap be used for the oil feed line as well? Or should I be using that stuff Ja posted a page or 2 back?


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_As far as heat wrap goes...I'd like to wrap the charge pipe coming off the turbo and possibly also the DP. Can regular old heat wrap be used for the oil feed line as well? Or should I be using that stuff Ja posted a page or 2 back?


use the dei stuff i posted about. the other wrap you mention retains heat, it's not made to deflect heat. if you're going to wrap your charge pipe, i would not use the same wrap as you would with the dp. pick up some refective wrap...similar to what vw uses oem. 
feed line
downpipe
charge pipes


_Modified by mirror at 6:32 AM 3-18-2007_


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (mirror)*

Awesome thanks Ja. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Also...the .375 wrap should be big enough for the oil feed right? I'm not at home but just guessing since the next size up is .625, and I know the line isn't a 1/2 in diameter.


_Modified by SAVwKO at 11:15 AM 3-18-2007_


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

3/8" should be fine. as long as it can slip over the fitting.


----------



## EdsGTI (Mar 9, 2003)

*Re: (mirror)*

it does.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (EdsGTI)*

K ordered those 3 things and some locking ties. Might get em tonight from Summit. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

how long till we see the driving vid??


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (VW1990CORRADO)*

I'm sorry to keep you all waiting







...but pretty much all that's holding it back is the wheel situation. I'm waiting for the custom rear hubs and the front adapters to get em on. The machinist is taking a lil longer than I thought.








But when it's read I'll try to make something entertaining for you guys.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

Oh quick question...when I go to put the oil feed line heat cover on...which end should I undo to keep oil loss minimal? Filter housing or turbo?


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_Oh quick question...when I go to put the oil feed line heat cover on...which end should I undo to keep oil loss minimal? Filter housing or turbo?

which ever side is easier...shouldn't matter especially since the car is immobile


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

the turbo side would be easiest...and nothing will come out. at least no more than a tsb.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (mirror)*

Das what I figured...I'll work the line so it drains back to the housing before I pull it.


----------



## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

I wouldn't really worry about the feed line..., unless its touching it... never had problems with mine and mine where pretty close


----------



## ginster vr6 (Aug 3, 2003)

*Re: (O2VW1.8T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *O2VW1.8T* »_I wouldn't really worry about the feed line..., unless its touching it... never had problems with mine and mine where pretty close
 
Yeah I mean it has to come close to it at some point it's connected to it.


----------



## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_Oh quick question...when I go to put the oil feed line heat cover on...which end should I undo to keep oil loss minimal? Filter housing or turbo?

just be carefull on the turbo fitting. that reducer is brittle as hell thread wise. i would use the filter housing side cause its more solid build wise. (then again i am rockin an atp restricter..)


----------



## TallaiMan (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

I don't know if this was said before, but aren't some of you wishing you were Sav's woman right about now?


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (TallaiMan)*

why would we ever want to be women


----------



## TallaiMan (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_why would we ever want to be women









That is a good point...


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_why would we ever want to be women









For the record, I did not say that.








Anyways started it up again tonight for a couple friends and it's smoking like crazy. Not BURNING smoke...but exhaust smoke. Maybe it's just b/c it's humid outside and the exhaust gas just decided to fly around in the garage. Before the next time I start it I'll probably lower the fuel and timing down with lemmiwinks so it's ready before I drive it. Also, put that heat wrap on the charge pipe and the fiberglass strands are kinda frayed. That stuff won't catch on fire will it?


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_
For the record, I did not say that.








Anyways started it up again tonight for a couple friends and it's smoking like crazy. Not BURNING smoke...but exhaust smoke. Maybe it's just b/c it's humid outside and the exhaust gas just decided to fly around in the garage. Before the next time I start it I'll probably lower the fuel and timing down with lemmiwinks so it's ready before I drive it. Also, put that heat wrap on the charge pipe and the fiberglass strands are kinda frayed. That stuff won't catch on fire will it?

no they won't. did you soak the wrap in water before wrapping the dp? 
whats exhaust smoke? also, what injectors did you fire it up with? if i were you, i'd leave the oem injectors in and run ff the w/g to get a heat cycle in or 2. 


_Modified by mirror at 7:33 PM 3-19-2007_


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (mirror)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mirror* »_
no they won't. did you soak the wrap in water before wrapping the dp? 
whats exhaust smoke? also, what injectors did you fire it up with? if i were you, i'd leave the oem injectors in and run ff the w/g to get a heat cycle in or 2. 

_Modified by mirror at 7:33 PM 3-19-2007_

I mean the aluminum foil stuff for the charge pipe. I haven't done the DP yet b/c I have to remove it when my catback comes in so I can weld on a flange. The 42DD catback uses flanges and bolts together so...that's why.
Fired it up with the 630s ertime...I'll just back the fuel down a bit.


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

no, they're not flamable. 
just remember to soak the header wrap ~24 hours before installing it. it will stretch when you wrap it...then when it dries, it'll be nice and tight. you may want to rig up a clamp in a bench vice to pull on it as you wrap it. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (mirror)*

Hmmm good tip. I got some of those locking ties as well to hold it on. Also, I have that high temp silicone paint that can be sprayed on over top of the wrap. I'll make sure to do all that. Thanks.


----------



## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (mirror)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mirror* »_no, they're not flamable. 
just remember to soak the header wrap ~24 hours before installing it. it will stretch when you wrap it...then when it dries, it'll be nice and tight. you may want to rig up a clamp in a bench vice to pull on it as you wrap it. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

no but if a drop of oil gets on it happy blazin. i know from experianca on my old g60. heat wrapped header, and a g60 feed line blew up, soaked it and caught on fire. dont worry i promtly put it out


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (VW1990CORRADO)*

Here's some new pics for ya'll of pretty much what the engine bay looks like and will look like.


----------



## SLVRSTNGRYGTI5683 (May 24, 2005)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

Looks really clean!!!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (SLVRSTNGRYGTI5683)*

any more updates? drive her yet?


----------



## .skully. (May 18, 2005)

*Re: (VW1990CORRADO)*

he needs to go pick the wheels up cuz they are waiting for him


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (.skully.)*

jesus...'bout time. down a whole week because of wheels...what a mk4 junkie.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (mirror)*

I'm a 337/20th/GLI junkie thank you.








And yea...been waiting on the hubs and adapters. I have the hubs, adapters will be done tonight. Insurance is effective at midnight tonight so until then I'll be circling the neighborhood.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_I'm a 337/20th/GLI junkie thank you.








And yea...been waiting on the hubs and adapters. I have the hubs, adapters will be done tonight. Insurance is effective at midnight tonight so until then I'll be circling the neighborhood.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

thats prolly a good thing. i don't think the car would last more than that without a oil filter.















or whatever else goes wrong during the shakedown run.


----------



## inivid (Aug 25, 2003)

*Re: (.skully.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *.skully.* »_he needs to go pick the wheels up cuz they are waiting for him









...but i thought the car already came with wheels?


----------



## .skully. (May 18, 2005)

*Re: (inivid)*


_Quote, originally posted by *inivid* »_
...but i thought the car already came with wheels?
 























no those were training wheels. savko is all growed up now








btw savko, better recheck your motor mounts and axel bolts http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
their were so many cooks in the kitchen who knows what could have went down


----------



## i2ickei242 (May 31, 2004)

*Re: (.skully.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *.skully.* »_
btw savko, better recheck your motor mounts and axel bolts http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
their were so many cooks in the kitchen who knows what could have went down

Sav doesn't have anything to worry about as far as the axels and motor/tranny mounts go. I did them myself...well Zach helped a little.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (i2ickei242)*

Yea those two got em on tight and if they didn't they'll be publicly put up for harrassment. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

i'm just waiting for the







after the first drive.....


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (T-Boy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *T-Boy* »_i'm just waiting for the







after the first drive.....

if only i could change the font size of the "







"


----------



## .skully. (May 18, 2005)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_Yea those two got em on tight and if they didn't they'll be publicly put up for harrassment. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif









you didnt hear what happened to zachs gti one faithful night did you. next time you talk to him ask him.
it takes like 5 seconds to go through and check so why not? i dont want to see the "jen's car fell aprat on the road" thread. in the end its your decision to trust the work of others on your girlfriends car. it was just a suggestion. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
dont forget the 4 of you forgot to put the oil filter in so who knows what else might not be...


----------



## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_
if only i could change the font size of the "







"


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

big enough for you mike?


----------



## axlekiller (Oct 16, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

Hurry up.


----------



## j0hnnybmx (Oct 18, 2004)

it livessssss. we just took it out for a drive.





























hit like 4psi. damn sp00lin.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (j0hnnybmx)*

Lol...story time.
So we get the adapters...adjust the suspension. It's like 2am and I start it up...mind you NO exhaust just a downpipe. My mom calls my cell lol but I couldnt feel it vibrating cuz the exhaust was vibrating the whole car.
Took it out, nice and easy brought it to redline. Loves it. Didn't go WOT at all...500 miles for the clutch. I can be patient. But, only thing I DIDN'T tighten were the 2 bolts holding the axle heatshield on. That fell off and got dragged a bit lol...but I got it back so, just need to get me some bolts and actually tighten them on.
Car drives and idles fine. Vac is between 19-20mmHG. I know you guys don't really care but um...I'm really loving the stance.









Oh yea only other things I need to do now is put some more power steering fluid in and then bleed the brakes. Ugh...I hate bleeding brakes.










_Modified by SAVwKO at 3:31 AM 3-24-2007_


----------



## vdubu05 (Apr 17, 2005)

this is the only way i find out about my car


----------



## inivid (Aug 25, 2003)

*Re: (vdubu05)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubu05* »_this is the only way i find out about my car


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (inivid)*

Ok question. Last night did like an hours worth of driving but didn't have the laptop hooked up. I gotta check the fuel trims, block 032. Can I open up VAG when I first start it up today and will it show what my fuel trims are now? Or do I have to do like an hour long log to get the readings? This is coming from GT-ER's writeup for the x+ on BT guide.


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

fuel trims are constantly adjusting. you can pull block 032 with just having the key "on". they constantly change, and are stored until you rest your ecu. they don't start out at zero everytime you restart the car.


----------



## axlekiller (Oct 16, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_Ok question. Last night did like an hours worth of driving but didn't have the laptop hooked up. I gotta check the fuel trims, block 032. Can I open up VAG when I first start it up today and will it show what my fuel trims are now? Or do I have to do like an hour long log to get the readings? This is coming from GT-ER's writeup for the x+ on BT guide.

Haven't you been doing this long enough to know this already?


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (axlekiller)*

i've never done fuel trims before


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

Ugh...setbacks setbacks.
Power steering fluid was leaking down by the pump hardline fitting. Somehow, it got carried up the belt and got all over the alternator. So that is shot. I'm gonna send my other one in to get rebuilt.
Then, I broke the sensor off the top of the hardline by tightening it in the wrong place.







I'll have another one today off a local but yea...done driving it for the weekend. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
Annoying **** like this is no fun.


----------



## EdsGTI (Mar 9, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

make sure u didnt forget the 2 washers on the banjo, and also make sure it was the sensor leaking and not those 2 washers, many times people make that mistake. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Durbo20vT (Apr 30, 2006)




----------



## bongoRA3 (Oct 8, 2003)

*Re: (UntouchableGTI)*

lol
**** is never as easy as some people make it out to be on the internet. More thinking and wrenching and less photography maybe next time. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## inneedofafastcar (Aug 27, 2005)

*Re: (UntouchableGTI)*

how old are u uTG


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (UntouchableGTI)*

draaaaaama in id=27.








whoda thunk it?


----------



## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

wow, so um ya.
on a side note i am sure you can snag an altinater from the classifieds cheaper than a rebuild? worth a check.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (VW1990CORRADO)*

I thought about it but I guess I'll wait to see what the guy that's doing it says. I sent him the one that's polished so obviously to me it has a lil more worth to getting that one rebuilt than just buying one from the classifieds. We'll see...


----------



## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

ya true forgot about the polished one.


----------



## wreckedmyteg (Mar 23, 2006)

*Re: (VW1990CORRADO)*

I was actually enjoying checking this thread every once in a while, but untouchable has pretty much killed it.








Way too much drama to read through.








Way to ruin a good thread, d-ck.


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (UntouchableGTI)*


----------



## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*Re: (mirror)*

Comments like what I removed are not needed. I will not take the time to clean the thread next time.


----------



## wreckedmyteg (Mar 23, 2006)

*Re: (VW1990CORRADO)*

When my alternator went bad I replaced it with a 120 amp from a VR6. It's a good idea if you've got aftermarket tunes.

_Quote, originally posted by *Boostin20v* »_Comments like what I removed are not needed. I will not take the time to clean the thread next time.

Much better! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Still-Boostn' (Aug 13, 2006)

*Re: (wreckedmyteg)*

LLUUCCCCKKKKYYYYYYYYYY.. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (Still-Boostn')*

Took her out tonight. After an hours worth of driving long term fuel trim was at -19.1. The primary fuel tweak won't go below -25%...so I minused out of the secondary fuel tweak. Was that right?


----------



## GT-ER (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_Took her out tonight. After an hours worth of driving long term fuel trim was at -19.1. The primary fuel tweak won't go below -25%...so I minused out of the secondary fuel tweak. Was that right?

Looks like you need a larger maf housing.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (GT-ER)*

Sent p/m
Lowered the secondary to like 89% last night and fuel trims are still at -19%. Guess that means time for an S4 housing? Let me know asap so I can get some new couplers. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by SAVwKO at 11:59 AM 4-1-2007_


----------



## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

what size housing are you using?


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (Boostin20v)*

The 12v VR housing...3" OD. That's what GT-ER recommended in the X+ writeup but I just bought his S4 housing so should fix it when I get that on.


----------



## PolskiHetzen (Apr 25, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_The 12v VR housing...3" OD. That's what GT-ER recommended in the X+ writeup but I just bought his S4 housing so should fix it when I get that on.

Don't get couplers just yet. Ducttape for trying it out







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (PolskiHetzen)*

Are you serious?







Anything else that won't leave a gooey mess all over my ish?


----------



## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

Your a emmkay four owner...use painters tape


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (Boostin20v)*

I say MARK...not emmkay.







And thanks for the tip. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

K...redid the IC pipe on the driver's side, got the new exhaust on. Pretty much wrapped up now just waiting on the S4 housing from GT-ER to get here. Tonight I took it out for a lil spin with the exhaust on and I actually went WOT for a few seconds in 2nd gear. Well, on my LOW boost setting, which is probably like 6-8psi, I watched the boost gauge fly up past 20.







So uh...does anyone know the preset for the w/g on a 2871r? Not to mention, adjusting it is a lil different then that on the ko3s. There's the one nut and then I'd have to somehow spin the entire rod but it's bent so...ugh.


----------



## Don R (Oct 4, 2002)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

Should be within 7-12 psi.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (Don R)*

Hmmm...well I had to clock the compressor outlet UP, and I also unbolted the actuator from it's bracket and turned it around so the nipple faced away from the compressor housing. that shouldn't change anything right? Hmm...why am I spiking like uber high?


----------



## GT-ER (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_Hmmm...well I had to clock the compressor outlet UP, and I also unbolted the actuator from it's bracket and turned it around so the nipple faced away from the compressor housing. that shouldn't change anything right? Hmm...why am I spiking like uber high?

If you plug the wastegate directly ( no boot controller ) you should get about 12-14psi ( I did anyways ). Either way... 20+psi is where it's at.


----------



## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_K...redid the IC pipe on the driver's side, got the new exhaust on. Pretty much wrapped up now just waiting on the S4 housing from GT-ER to get here. Tonight I took it out for a lil spin with the exhaust on and I actually went WOT for a few seconds in 2nd gear. Well, on my LOW boost setting, which is probably like 6-8psi, I watched the boost gauge fly up past 20.







So uh...does anyone know the preset for the w/g on a 2871r? Not to mention, adjusting it is a lil different then that on the ko3s. There's the one nut and then I'd have to somehow spin the entire rod but it's bent so...ugh.

your vacuum lines arent tight enough. not a perfect seal.


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_K...redid the IC pipe on the driver's side, got the new exhaust on. Pretty much wrapped up now just waiting on the S4 housing from GT-ER to get here. Tonight I took it out for a lil spin with the exhaust on and I actually went WOT for a few seconds in 2nd gear. Well, on my LOW boost setting, which is probably like 6-8psi, I watched the boost gauge fly up past 20.







So uh...does anyone know the preset for the w/g on a 2871r? Not to mention, adjusting it is a lil different then that on the ko3s. There's the one nut and then I'd have to somehow spin the entire rod but it's bent so...ugh.

stop crying. run the boost. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (VW1990CORRADO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VW1990CORRADO* »_
your vacuum lines arent tight enough. not a perfect seal.

I'm going to take a peak under the hood. They'd have to be the ones for the boost controller. Maybe they're a lil pinched from the inlet pipe. I dunno...got the S4 MAF in from GT-ER today.








And Ja...I spiked 25psi BEFORE I let off the gas on my low boost setting...I'm not cryin, I'm not being stupid.


----------



## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

try going from IC pipe right to the actuater for break in. 
i am basically doing that, the ebc is hooked up just shut off.
occationally i will spike 19psi. 
what is your spool like? i forget mine from last year, with the aeb i am seeing 18psi solid at 3300give or take.


----------



## Public-Enemy (Nov 28, 2003)

*Re: (mirror)*

hey did you have to drill holes to mount your fuel pump over on the side?


----------



## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

i just bought a gt3071r .63a/r T3 with tial 38mm wastegate from Arnold, im still on deployment, so i have to wait to install it, but ive got Revolver cams and an ABD intake manifold also going on. intercooler is 31x11x3 from 20squared. hoping for 360whp on pump at 23psi. might also do a meth/water kit.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (Public-Enemy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Public-Enemy* »_hey did you have to drill holes to mount your fuel pump over on the side?

No. I removed the EVAP system, and there is a bracket there that holds the N80 valve or whatever it is. Has 2 holes and 2 bolts holding it on. Just positioned the fuel pump rings where the holes were and put the bolts thru.


----------



## skydaman (Dec 16, 2005)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

Check to make sure your wastegate is opening. If you don't have it clocked right and the wastegate rod is at any angle your boost will be all over the place because the rod is rubbing against the actuator housing.
Unscrew the rod on the wastegate and make sure there is just a little tension on the rod so that you have to pull it onto the wastegate to keep it closed. If you have the rod tension too tight or too lose on the wastegate it can cause your boost to spool too slow or spike to high.


----------



## bdowning (Apr 25, 2006)

*Re: (Don R)*

how much power you hoping for?


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (bdowning)*

With dual nozzle w/m, atleast 27psi, hoping for no less than 380whp. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

Ok need some help guys. Here's the issue. Car has been running fine...fuel trims were at -19 with the VR MAF housing. Just put in the S4 housing...fuel trims are now at -17. WTF?







I have a 3bar in...why is it still running this rich with an S4 housing?
Started getting what I think were misfires b/c it would studder at WOT and then go and then studder. No CELs tho...VAG showed no codes either. Block 015 showed a misfire in cyl 2 tho. So I put in 4 new BKR7E plugs...and now the idle dips. It's set for 950rpm, and it'll stay and then dip and the vac goes down to 0 and then it comes back. When I drive it it's ok tho...studders at idle still. Took it out for a drive and got it to 12psi and it pulls fine. I have a log I'll post in a few.
Anyone got anything?
Wow uh looking at the A/F. Didn't have any blocks that measured rpm of course







but the ACTUAL is 1.99!! and spec is 1.05. Why is it dumping all that fuel? I'll try cleaning the MAF sensor.


_Modified by SAVwKO at 7:32 PM 4-10-2007_


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

unplugged MAF and idle'd fine. Just cleaned the sensor up in alcohol. Will report back.


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

ummm...what? 
did you mean req is 10.5, and actual is 11.99? if so, you're getting fuel dump. ecu is going into a protective map. it's studdering because it's missing (all of the fuel). your idle sounds like it needs to have some fuel puled out via lemmi. you can try and pull some fuel out for wot, but you'll still hit your protective map.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (mirror)*

Ok did some logs with both the MAF plugged in and unplugged. Post those in a bit. Fuel trims are now down to -10.9%. Guessing they'll keep falling off as I drive it. With the MAF plugged in there's some SLIGHT hesitation at idle but not as bad. Without it plugged in it idles perfect.


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

i take it you didn't re-set your trims?


----------



## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

*Re: (mirror)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mirror* »_i take it you didn't re-set your trims?









mike didn't i tell ya to,


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

*Re: (mirror)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mirror* »_ummm...what? 
did you mean req is 10.5, and actual is 11.99? if so, you're getting fuel dump. ecu is going into a protective map. it's studdering because it's missing (all of the fuel). your idle sounds like it needs to have some fuel puled out via lemmi. you can try and pull some fuel out for wot, but you'll still hit your protective map. 

He's on a k03 software.....don't they usually dump fuel up top normally?


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (igotaprestent4u)*


_Quote, originally posted by *igotaprestent4u* »_
mike didn't i tell ya to,

















Um...no. You didn't.
It seems to run better with no MAF, but coming to a stop it wants to stall so...obviously I'm gonna run a MAF but not sure why it doesn't like anything. I'll get the logs up asap.


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_
not sure why it doesn't like anything. I'll get the logs up asap.

raises hand...
cause you're on a k03 file, and you haven't tweaked anything.


----------



## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

*Re: (mirror)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mirror* »_
raises hand...
cause you're on a k03 file, and you haven't tweaked anything. 


owned
if you want mike you can see how nicely it runs with my ecu


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (mirror)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mirror* »_
raises hand...
cause you're on a k03 file, and you haven't tweaked anything. 


Oh...I haven't? All the lemmi tweaks have been done. Primary fuel tweak at -25%, timing at -5.25 and there is no pull in any cylinders. Here's the graphs...first one is no MAF, second is with MAF. Boost set at like 12-13psi.



_Quote, originally posted by *igotaprestent4u* »_
owned
if you want mike you can see how nicely it runs with my ecu









Nope...I'll be happier when I get it running without a company's help.










_Modified by SAVwKO at 10:32 PM 4-10-2007_


----------



## Patrick Swayze (Dec 19, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_
Nope...I'll be happier when I get it running without a company's help.









_Modified by SAVwKO at 10:32 PM 4-10-2007_


you invented lemmiwinks? 
you invented a fpr? 
you invented the internal combustion engine?


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (Patrick Swayze)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Patrick Swayze* »_

you invented lemmiwinks? 
you invented a fpr? 
you invented the internal combustion engine?

Ok honestly I think you should know what I was getting at. He's got APR s/w so he doesn't have to mess with anything. Not to mention he's not actually helping out with the diagnosis...just throwing jabs b/c I'm not getting the car running perfect on the first run out.


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

your fueling looks fine...the problem is your idle? 
and you'll alway get jabs from the locals mike. come on now.










_Modified by mirror at 7:41 PM 4-10-2007_


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (mirror)*

As of now yea...it'll blip around a tad and it doesn't sound like it SHOULD. Occassionally it would dip alot and come back up. Tomorrow johnny is gonna bring his MAF sensor and we'll see if it runs any better. I'm also wondering if I should just pull the CAI. It's a 3" pipe that reduces to a 2.5" pipe...then has to go back up to a 3" MAF. But Ill just go one at a time and do the sensor first.


----------



## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

I liked it better when i had my t3/t4 set-up and no vag-com.. Just turn it to 25psi and run with it







Too much BS graphs, ever time it will change a little and get u mad.. If it was mee i'd already be a 22psi on that set-up whats holding u back some stupid ST and LT blocks


----------



## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

just a question, i know you want to tune it, and dan was successfull. but it seems like you got decent hardware why not get the propper software? you and igotapresent4u BOTH have software, just his is for his hardware appication. you could always see how much that new GIAC BT software is? not jabbing just curious.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (VW1990CORRADO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *O2VW1.8T* »_I liked it better when i had my t3/t4 set-up and no vag-com.. Just turn it to 25psi and run with it







Too much BS graphs, ever time it will change a little and get u mad.. If it was mee i'd already be a 22psi on that set-up whats holding u back some stupid ST and LT blocks

I DID hit the high boost switch to see what it was set at. Hit 21-22 psi







It felt pretty good.

_Quote, originally posted by *VW1990CORRADO* »_just a question, i know you want to tune it, and dan was successfull. but it seems like you got decent hardware why not get the propper software? you and igotapresent4u BOTH have software, just his is for his hardware appication. you could always see how much that new GIAC BT software is? not jabbing just curious.

Well the reason I've decided to stick with this is b/c Dan didn't seem to have better results with the BT s/w. Everyone said X+ looked tons better so...I'd rather tune it like he did. Also, as long as all goes well, I'd like to dyno, then get the BT s/w and dyno again and see if it will really make a difference.


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_As of now yea...it'll blip around a tad and it doesn't sound like it SHOULD. Occassionally it would dip alot and come back up. Tomorrow johnny is gonna bring his MAF sensor and we'll see if it runs any better. I'm also wondering if I should just pull the CAI. It's a 3" pipe that reduces to a 2.5" pipe...then has to go back up to a 3" MAF. But Ill just go one at a time and do the sensor first.

is it dipping (rpms drops to ~750) after you come to a stop? something you have to remember...is you now have a dbb larger turbo. the turbo is still pulling air through the maf when you come to a stop...well beyond what the sw was calibrated for. replce the maf, and play with the angle of the sensor.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (mirror)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mirror* »_replce the maf, and play with the angle of the sensor. 

As in the sensor itself? I'll try johnny's tomorrow. And how would I change the angle of the sensor?


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

you can twist the sensor inside the housing a degree or 2.


----------



## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_
I DID hit the high boost switch to see what it was set at. Hit 21-22 psi







It felt pretty good.

.

stop being a little girl and enjoy the car and forget the little blip lol


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (O2VW1.8T)*

I probably would if it weren't Jen's car.


----------



## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_I probably would if it weren't Jen's car.








lol even better


----------



## GT-ER (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: (O2VW1.8T)*

I have to agree with Peter, go 20psi and keep it there for now. THEN do some logs in 3rd ( maybe 4th if possible ).


----------



## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

*)*

just curious mike, was just looking through your logs, is the w/m plugged in or unplugged?


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: ) (igotaprestent4u)*

no not on yet. waiting for the plate from scott.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

Mike-did you bump your idle a little? that might help the dip that you don't like...just a thought


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_Mike-did you bump your idle a little? that might help the dip that you don't like...just a thought

Yeaup it's +250...at like 950rpm now. I did it back when I first put on the ECS dogbone to keep it from vibrating at idle.


----------



## GT-ER (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

Bump it up to 2000rpm... problem solved.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (GT-ER)*

Yea maybe we won't hear the fw chatter at 2k


----------



## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

god love that chatter on o2ms


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (VW1990CORRADO)*

Yea and I got the 16lb steel one thinking it'd be alright.








Anyways, selling the CAI on there...just gonna grab a filter to go on the MAF.


----------



## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

what one is that? can you take a vid of it? curious how it is compared to my 8lb unorthodox.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (VW1990CORRADO)*

It's from Spec. Came with the Stg3+ clutch/pp.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

Did 4th gear pull tonight on high boost. It was spiking 24psi and was between 22-24psi depending on when I looked at the gauge. This isn't gonna be my HIGH high boost...just what the controller is set at right now.

Also, idle still blips but no more than 100rpm...it's subtle but you can hear it doing it. W/e, car runs very strong as is. I reset the fuel trims and after an hour of driving long term is at 0.4%







Chaching! Timin is still at -5.25 and I don't plan on changing it until I have my boost set at where I want it.
Tomorrow I'll change the oil and then hopefully heading out to start upping the boost. Anyone have any comments on the above graph?


----------



## TallaiMan (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

You're complaining about a 100 RPM blip in the idle? Come on...


----------



## spoolin turbo s (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (TallaiMan)*

i hope you do well with the X+ i think the uni 630 would treat youright know


----------



## GT-ER (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: (spoolin turbo s)*

Why does you map sensor say you are only running at 14psi? What diode are you using? 4.3? Why not a 4.7?


----------



## Chris164935 (Jan 10, 2004)

*Re: (TallaiMan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TallaiMan* »_You're complaining about a 100 RPM blip in the idle? Come on...









Lol... Hope he doesn't ever run into this problem:








Anyway, to stay on topic somewhat (idle blip problem), have you double-checked all your vac lines around the manifold? Try spraying some carb cleaner (easily and *CAREFULLY*) around different vac lines and see if the motor idle changes any... Or isolate certain areas and spray compressed air into them and see if it opens any rips or something on a vac line...


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (Chris164935)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GT-ER* »_Why does you map sensor say you are only running at 14psi? What diode are you using? 4.3? Why not a 4.7?

B/c it's a GLI. MAP sensor is the smaller one. I put a 4.7 on, but that's what it clamps at. I can always try getting another 4.7 I suppose.

_Quote, originally posted by *Chris164935* »_Anyway, to stay on topic somewhat (idle blip problem), have you double-checked all your vac lines around the manifold? Try spraying some carb cleaner (easily and *CAREFULLY*) around different vac lines and see if the motor idle changes any... Or isolate certain areas and spray compressed air into them and see if it opens any rips or something on a vac line...

I have one of those brake bleeder things that I can use to pressure test the system. I have an empty port on the mani so I'll try that out.

Anyways...everything look good enough for me to start raising boost now?


----------



## GT-ER (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_
B/c it's a GLI. MAP sensor is the smaller one. I put a 4.7 on, but that's what it clamps at. I can always try getting another 4.7 I suppose.


Mine was the small one and it clamped at about 17-18psi.
do your pm's work btw?


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (GT-ER)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GT-ER* »_
Mine was the small one and it clamped at about 17-18psi.
do your pm's work btw?

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Chris164935 (Jan 10, 2004)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_
B/c it's a GLI. MAP sensor is the smaller one. I put a 4.7 on, but that's what it clamps at. I can always try getting another 4.7 I suppose.
I have one of those brake bleeder things that I can use to pressure test the system. I have an empty port on the mani so I'll try that out.

Anyways...everything look good enough for me to start raising boost now?









You could raise boost, but past experiences have taught me to fix all your problems before you do that. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (Chris164935)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Chris164935* »_
You could raise boost, but past experiences have taught me to fix all your problems before you do that. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

bingo. if you can't straighten it out at 1bar, you will only have more issues at 20psi. it boggles me that people try and diagnose their cars at high boost levels, unless it only exists at that level.


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (mirror)*

Well the diode I didn't think was/is a problem. Hell the spec boost falls down below 17 anyways so wouldn't it be better I'm clamped at 13?
And there isn't FOR SURE leaks...I'm just gonna see. But I'll do that before turning the boost up. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Chris164935 (Jan 10, 2004)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_Well the diode I didn't think was/is a problem. Hell the spec boost falls down below 17 anyways so wouldn't it be better I'm clamped at 13?
And there isn't FOR SURE leaks...I'm just gonna see. But I'll do that before turning the boost up. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

If it's not a leak, then it could be something electrical...
Have you scanned the car any since the "build up"?


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (Chris164935)*

Lol yes I've scanned it quite a bunch. I don't leave my house without my VAG COM.








Got some logs and also a kill vid from tonight.







Chrysler 300C SRT-8









Looks like the eBay core ain't doing too shabby. I think I'll be scrapin frost off my pipes once the w/m is on.








Vid will be up tomorrow.


_Modified by SAVwKO at 1:21 AM 4-13-2007_


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

Oh yea also forgot to mention...when doing the logs, once the boost started going a lil over 25, the needle on the gauge would start bouncing. You could also hear a fluttering sound. At first I thought maybe the gauge was just maxing out and the needle wouldn't go any farther but...now I think it's either the wastegate or the DV. The DV I bet doesn't have a stiff enough spring and the boost is starting to open it on it's own. What you guys think?


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

Would have been nice to see boost with that log......what was it set at?



_Modified by T-Boy at 8:52 AM 4-13-2007_


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (T-Boy)*

26-27 psi...diode won't show what it's doing tho which is why I didn't bother posting that graph. A/F is spot on too so...just wanted to show you guys something new. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

how did it feel that that psi? i cant wait to turn it up, but i wanna wait till i complete 1500 miles. 950 left.


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## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

where is the vid you promised? hehehe


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*

I'll p/m you it. I just posted it and got pwned by stu 2 min later.


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## a2gtinut (Dec 2, 1999)

*Re: (mirror)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mirror* »_
bingo. if you can't straighten it out at 1bar, you will only have more issues at 20psi. it boggles me that people try and diagnose their cars at high boost levels, unless it only exists at that level. 

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_I'll p/m you it. I just posted it and got pwned by stu 2 min later.









Sorry, but you and everyone else must follow the same rules..
"Do not discuss, suggest, engage, or encourage any illegal activity on the forums. Linking to locations that deal with any such activity is also forbidden."


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (Boostin20v)*

Bumped from the dead for this pic to show placement of everything all said/done minus w/m:


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## pdi192 (Jul 14, 2004)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_Bumped from the dead for this pic to show placement of everything all said/done minus w/m:









amazing looking bay sav http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## chitowndubsta (Nov 15, 2005)

*Re: (spoolin turbo s)*


_Quote, originally posted by *spoolin turbo s* »_i hope you do well with the X+ i think the uni 630 would treat youright know

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## myk3 (Jan 10, 2006)

very tidey


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## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: (myk3)*

looks good


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (VW1990CORRADO)*

Nice thing about removing the EVAP is a good spot for the pump. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Durbo20vT (Apr 30, 2006)

lookin good http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
move that filter about 6" off the Maf... your idle will love that


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (Durbo20vT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Durbo20vT* »_lookin good http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
move that filter about 6" off the Maf... your idle will love that

It kinda already is. That's the BPI Flow Stack intake. Plus I don't really have room to move the filter away more. And with a few Lemmi tweaks I got the idle ALOT better.


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