# TOC Done: Replacing Turn Signal Lens, Bulbs, Mirror Glass on Exterior Mirrors



## hylko (Nov 17, 2009)

Good afternoon,

At the garage they pointed out to me that on my driverside the plastic indicator bit has cracked.
On the attached picture you can see that it has water in it now too.

Any idea if this an easy replacement of the plastic or does the entire mirror has to come off?



Thanks Hylko


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Hello Hylko:

I believe that is an easy part to replace. First you remove the reflective glass (the mirror itself), once that is done, you have easy access to the turn signal lens.

There is a post in the Phaeton Forum 'Table of Contents' (FAQ by Category) that discusses retrofitting convex (European specification) mirrors to North American Phaetons - go have a look at that discussion, I believe that there are photos there showing how to remove the mirror glass, and what the inside of the assembly looks like when the glass is removed.

In the meantime, I will try to get instructions for you from the repair manual.

Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Here are the instructions to carry out the part replacement.

You might want to check the price of the lens and LED assembly before you start, I don't think it will be inexpensive... 

Michael


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## hylko (Nov 17, 2009)

Thanks for your swift reply Michael

Any change you have an part number off these replacement parts? As my local VW dealer has no idea about our cars.


Thanks Hylko


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## toph (Apr 23, 2007)

It was about £85 for mine on my old car. Fitting was easy as when I caught a wheelie bin it broke the lugs on the shell aswell


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## VWGlf00GL (Feb 14, 2005)

*Part #'s should be:*

Hello Hylko,

I recall paying around $40-50.00 USD for my mirror turn signal on the passenger side..

04-06R = 3D0949102A
04-06L = 3D0949101A

Thanks,

Adrian


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## hylko (Nov 17, 2009)

Thanks guys for your help. Will be going to a VW dealer / parts department today.
Will get the right parts in and replaced.


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## hylko (Nov 17, 2009)

Picked part up 38 GPB not too bad ,thanks for the instructions.
Hope it stays dry this Saterday when i will fit it.

Next job on the list is to replace bottom trim off the passenger door. We are getting there.

Hylko


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## hylko (Nov 17, 2009)

*Small guide to replace indicator light ( BLINKLEUGH )*

As mentioned earlier got the part in. As this forum has helped me out loads of times i decided to made a small guide to replace the indicator light. Its very straight forward and done in less than half an hour.

The attached pdf file and reference to an other topic are very helpfull too.

Used tools :
1x Phillips screwdriver

Used part :
1x 3D0949102A @ 38 GPB VW Dealer

*1.* Remove the mirror glass. When removed you ll need to disconnect three connectors.



*2.* Remove 3x black screws that holds the mirrorshell.



*3.* Remove 2x golden screws on bottom & 2x screws indicator light. 




*4.* Disconnect the indicator light by undoing this connector.


*5.* Slowly remove the door light this will give you room to pull the inidcator connector trough.
_( sorry forgot to take picture )_

*6. *Remove the old indicator light by disconnecting the two silver clips and replace it with new connector.


*7.* Put the screws back in to the plastic mold connecting to the indicator light.


*8.* Reassemble this back on to the car. To fasten this will require the 2x golden screws. connect the new indicator light to the cable provided. put this in place on the metal gasket.


*9. *Put the shell back on. fasten this with the 3x black screws. re connect the connectors for the mirror & carefully click it back into place.


*10.* Job done. 


*11.* Look at the difference... much better.



I choose to clean the parts that came off. It takes in quit a bit of water and dirt. Also gave the shell a quick polish.

Ordering Monday for the passenger side a new indicator light. As I noticed there is difference in color of the plastics.

_Edit June 2014: Full-size versions of photos re-hosted by Michael, no change to content._


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## zouk_1 (Nov 11, 2010)

*Rear Turn Signal on US-spec Phaetons*

Speaking of turn signals, I will be picking up a 2004 VW W12 Phaeton in a couple of days. Does anyone know if the Euro-spec rear light assembly (with the amber turn signal) be retrofitted to a US-spec car? Is the foot-print the same? Are the electrical connectors the same? Is this a one-for-one swap? 
Please advise.
Thnx


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Thanks for creating the "how-to" Hyklo, that was very thoughtful of you.

I will add this post to the Phaeton Forum 'Table of Contents' (FAQ by Category).

Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

zouk_1 said:


> Does anyone know if the Euro-spec rear light assembly (with the amber turn signal) be retrofitted to a US-spec car?


Please see this post: Enabling (or retrofitting) a rear foglight on a North American Phaeton, which is listed in the Phaeton Forum 'Table of Contents' (FAQ by Category) under the heading "Phaeton Upgrades and Modifications After Delivery - Discussions, Photos and 'How-To's'"

Also please review this post: Possible problems related to the rear fog annunciator on 2005 / 2006 NAR Phaetons  prior to beginning any work.

Michael


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## cyrax122 (Sep 19, 2007)

*Turn Signal lights on mirriors bulbs*

Any one know what size bulbs are in mirrors for turn signals
Dealership wants $70.00 for whole unit!
Thanks in advance


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Bob,

That's the price I fear, £55 to $85 at the dealer parts desk (sorry, not sure which continent you are in) or online there's the occasional supplier quoting $60. It's a combined lens and illumination assembly. Is it LED? I haven't looked.

This is the TOC thread on it: Add to TOC Replacing Turn Signal Lens on Exterior Mirrors.

Chris


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## cyrax122 (Sep 19, 2007)

Thank You!


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## Phaeton_owner (May 17, 2014)

Hi everyone,

I have such kind of problem, the right side mirror indicator suddenly stopped indicate turn signal. I have read this thread, how to replace this side turn LED lights set. But before starting to dismantle the exterior mirror, I thought maybe there is any fuse (or any other item) which should be checked before starting dismantle. 
Thank you for yours answers in advance.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Hi Mindaugas:

The fuse diagram shows that fuse number 11 in the fuse panel above the driver footwell (under the steering wheel) protects the power going to the "right front" turn signal. It doesn't explicitly say that it protects power to the turn signal in the right mirror. There is no mention in the fuse diagram of a unique fuse that protects power to the turn indicator light in the mirror.

The Standard Equipment wiring diagram shows that power to the turn signal indicator in the right mirror (component L132) comes from the passenger door (right hand door, in your case) control module, which is component J387. The front passenger door control module also provides power to numerous other things associated with the right front door, such as the red warning light on the aft edge of the door (the light that illuminates when the door is opened) and the 'puddle light' on the bottom of the mirror that illuminates when the door is opened.

My suggestion is that you check and see if the other lights associated with the front right passenger door control unit operate. If they do, then that suggests that the fault lies with the turn signal lamp assembly in the mirror, rather than the mirror itself. 

I am assuming that you have already confirmed that the right side turn signals at the front and back of the car operate properly when the right turn signal is activated, in other words, that the only turn signal problem you have is with the repeater light in the mirror.

Michael


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## Phaeton_owner (May 17, 2014)

Thanks Michael for your quick answer,

I have checked all front and rear turn lights, also I am convinced that other lights (red warning light, 'puddle light') are operating normaly. So according to the fact that everything works normaly, except the turn signal lamp assembly in the mirror, I have no other option but to change signal lamp assembly in the mirror. 
I have one more question, does the Standard Equipment wiring diagram and relays and fuse diagram are the same in NAR and ROW Phaetons? I'm asking because when I pulled out fuse number 11 nothing changed (both (front/rear) right turn signals were operating normally). Then I pulled out fuse number 10 and nothing changed again, left turn signals were operating normally as well. As far as I understand if the fuses 10 and 11 are responsible for the turn signals operating, then when I pulled them out, either turn signal shouldn't appear. 

Mindaugas.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Mindaugas,

To supplement Michael's fuse information: the door mirror's LED turn signal light is fed power from the door control unit (in the door) under the command of a CAN-bus signal from the steering column switch controller/processor. So if some other door functions work correctly, such as the red traffic warning light in the door, then it's not a fuse.

The LED's ground connection is shared with the mirror's convenience entry light (although the joint is in the harness, not the mirror), so if that light works OK it's probably not the negative feed at fault.

The + voltage is turned on direct from the door control unit, which is powered from the On-Board Supply control unit. The LED feed voltage might be pulsed at high frequency or might be smooth DC (I do not know which) so a voltmeter check might not give a conclusive indication of a +ve wiring fault.

One LED lamp assembly (ie left or right) is around €50 from a dealer.

Chris


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

It's nearly as easy to dismantle the mirror as it is to check the fuse! The glass just flips off, then there are a couple of screws and the housing comes off. It always takes me a good 10 minutes just to find that bloody handle for the fuses near the pedals.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Mindaugas said:


> ...does the Standard Equipment wiring diagram and relays and fuse diagram are the same in NAR and ROW Phaetons? I'm asking because when I pulled out fuse number 11 nothing changed (both (front/rear) right turn signals were operating normally). Then I pulled out fuse number 10 and nothing changed again, left turn signals were operating normally as well. As far as I understand if the fuses 10 and 11 are responsible for the turn signals operating, then when I pulled them out, either turn signal shouldn't appear.


Hi Again Mindaugas:

I believe that for equipment that is identical in all markets (this would include turn signals), the wiring diagrams are the same for both NAR and ROW. I have occasionally noticed in a wiring diagram that some wires are represented by dotted lines, with the note "North American Market Only" nearby. Examples of this include wiring for the supplemental clearance lamps on the front sides of the vehicle, OnStar lighting, etc.

You have a model year 2007 car... 2006 was the last year that the Phaeton was sold in North America. I think the car received a minor freshen-up in 2007, but I don't think that minor update affected 'basic' functions such as turn signals or fuse locations.

I have attached a document that gives greater detail on fuse locations and fuse functions... have a look at it and see if you find any differences between this document (which dates from summer 2003, when the car was first introduced) and the fuse layout of your car.

Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Exterior Mirror Disassembly, Motor Cleaning, Motor Lubrication*

Martin and I were discussing inconsistent and erratic operation of the exterior mirrors on our 2004 Phaetons in another discussion (Coincidence or obscure electronic connection?, posts #8 through #20), and after reading his comment that lubrication of the mirror positioning motor diminished the problem, I decided to take one of my exterior mirrors completely apart and try to clean and lubricate the motor mechanism. I did this, and the result was superb... the mirror positioning is now very accurate, and the mirror moves smoothly without any jerking. It's like a new car again.

What surprised me, though, was that the mirror motor assembly didn't need lubrication as much as it needed cleaning. Little bits of dirt and grit had worked their way into the motor assembly over the years, and this dirt was preventing the positioning motor from operating smoothly. I cleaned out the dirt, and lubricated the whole assembly... but my guess is that it was the cleaning, rather than the lubrication, that accomplished 90% of the improvement. 

Disassembly of the external mirrors has already been well documented by Hyklo in post #9 of this discussion (above). I'm going to reiterate what he has written about the disassembly process (just in case some new information might sneak in), then look in detail at cleaning and lubrication of the mirror positioning motor.

The first step is to remove the mirror glass from the mirror assembly. This is pretty simple, although I recommend that the car at least be at 'room temperature' before doing this - don't attempt to remove the mirror glass in sub-zero temperatures. I used a trim tool (more info here: Volkswagen Trim Removal Tool) to pop the mirror off. It is also possible to adjust the mirror to the most inward-pointing position, then just stuff your fingers in behind the mirror glass and pop it off.

*Removing the Mirror Glass
*

Once the mirror pops free of the circular positioning motor assembly, two sets of electrical connectors need to be detached. One set of wires is for mirror heating (de-icing), the other set of wires is for mirror dimming (anti-glare). I'm pretty sure that mirror heating is standard on Phaetons, but I know exterior mirror dimming is optional. It is possible that your car might only have one set of wires. I don't know which set accomplishes which task.

*Mirror Glass once popped off the positioning motor*


The photo below shows the forward face of the mirror after one set of wires has been removed, and just after disconnecting the second set. The purpose of this photo is to provide guidance about how to get that connector apart. Just stuff a small tool (pick, tiny screwdriver) into the rectangular hole on the connector attached to the car (shown on the right), then pull the very thin part of the connector attached to the mirror to disengage it.

*How the connector comes apart*


This is where the contents of my post are going to diverge from the 'how-to' that Hyklo wrote above (post #9), because my interest is in removing the motor positioning assembly, not the mirror shell, puddle light, or turn signal repeater. The photo below shows the three bolts (not screws) that hold the mirror positioning motor in place. They are Phillips #2 size. On my car, the heads of these fasteners were quite corroded, but there was no corrosion anywhere on the shaft of the fasteners... they came out very easily.

*Fasteners holding mirror positioning motor in place
*

Here are two things I learned from the world-famous "School of Hard Knocks" during the process of taking the motor out. I wish I had thought about these two points before I started.

*1) *Before you begin - before doing anything - move the mirror (electrically, using the knob inside the car) to a "known position". My suggestion is that you use a centered (vertically and horizontally) position that leaves an equal amount of reveal present around the plastic mirror shroud. The reason you want the mirror in a 'known position' before going to work is that when you re-assemble it later, you will want to try and re-assemble it in the same 'known position'. This will minimize the amount of adaptation and calibration work needed at the end of the job.

*2)* As we all know, the Phaeton exterior mirrors will swing forward quite a good distance if we just give them a gentle shove towards the front of the car. So, after setting the 'known position', shove the mirror forward, that makes it a lot easier to work on it.

*Shove the mirror forward, that makes access easier*


*This is what the mirror positioning motor looks like once it is removed.*


*This is how the electrical connector comes out of the mirror positioning motor
*

I put the mirror positioning motor assembly on the workbench and took a good look at it. I noticed that it was kind of dirty - not just dust, but grime. I also noticed that there was evidence of abrasion between the plastic cup that surrounds the motor assembly (the top part in the picture below - it looks like the round cap on a Starbucks fancy coffee) and the motor assembly itself (the inner part, with the electrical connector). 

*After Removal from Car*


I took the whole assembly inside, sprayed it with a little bit of 'Simple Green' detergent, and washed it off under the laundry room tap. I figured it must be waterproof, because it is certainly well exposed to the elements out there in the mirror housing. After washing it, the evidence of abrasion between the 'cup' surrounding the motor assembly and the motor assembly itself was very visible. My guess is that the abrasion has been caused by grit or sand that has worked its way in there, and the presence of this grit or sand is what was causing the positioning motor to work in jerks and bumps, and not consistently return to the position it has been programmed to return to (more information about programming mirror positions can be found here: Store Settings for the Seat Memory buttons, key fobs, driver preferences and also here: How to save passenger side exterior rear view mirror memory position for use when backing up.

*Evidence of Abrasion*


At this point, I thought it would be a good idea to take the assembly apart to clean it and lubricate it. 

To be honest, if I had to do everything all over again, I'm not sure I would bother taking it apart. I think I would just do the most thorough job I could rinsing the above assembly under warm water, then leave it out overnight to dry out, then put some lubricant in between the 'cup' assembly and the motor assembly, as well as on the visible gears.

Taking it apart was a tricky, troublesome task. It is not designed to be taken apart. I needed a large magnifying glass, some picks, and a large number of very tiny screwdrivers (toothpicks would probably suffice) to get the 'cup' assembly apart from the motor assembly. You have been warned, this is NOT an easy task. Proceed at your own peril.

The first step is to remove the fastener from the middle of the flat side of the assembly. It has a Torx 15 head. Don't lose the small captive spring.

Next step is to press inwards on the tangs (which are part of the flat face, the part that the above-mentioned fastener goes into) in order to detach them from the cup assembly. You need three arms to do this... one to press the tangs inwards (in the photo below, I'm using the spring tool to press the tang inwards), one arm to pry the cup and flat face apart, and a third arm to stuff a tiny screwdriver or similar between the two parts so that they don't join up again. I suggest you have a helper when you do this part, it is very frustrating to attempt to do it alone.

*Beginning of Disassembly*


*Continuing with Disassembly*


*A bit more than half-way through*


*Finally - the two halves separate, and none of the tangs busted during the process*


Once the flat part is apart from the semicircular cup, it is possible to tip the cup over and the motor assembly will drop out of the cup. There is nothing holding it in. If you look closely at the motor assembly (the lower part) in the picture below, you can see evidence of abrasion between the motor assembly and the inside of the cup.

*Removing the motor assembly from the cup
*

*The three pieces*


Below, you can see the buildup of dirt and scuzz, and the evidence of abrasion caused by gritty dirt. Keep in mind I had already washed the part with detergent and water before I even began disassembly. I cleaned all this out, and also cleaned the mating surfaces of the motor assembly. But... I'm still not sure if it was really necessary to take it apart. I think a more thorough washing with warm water (without disassembling it) would have got the vast majority of this dirt out of the space between the cup and the motor assembly.

*Dirt, Scuzz, Abrasion - within cup*


*Dirt, Scuzz, Abrasion - on motor assembly (mates with cup, above)*


I cleaned all the dirt off of both of the above components, then put a thin film of Krytox lubricant (a VW special lubricant) on the areas of the motor housing and cup that showed abrasion. I also put a few drops of Krytox on the motor gear assemblies, but did not attempt to lubricate the motors themselves.

I'm not entirely certain whether lubricating the motor housing and cup was a good idea. For sure, everything runs a lot smoother now, but will the lubricant trap dirt that might otherwise get washed out if I just blew a stream of water from a garden hose in behind the mirror? The gears showed evidence of having been lubricated with grease at time of manufacture, but the grease on the gears themselves was long gone. I put a couple of drops of Krytox on the gears. I elected to use Krytox because it is not a petroleum based lubricant, and thus won't cause long-term harm to the plastic parts. I also lubricated the white plastic bushing in the middle of the motor.

Re-assembly was straightforward. When putting the three black plastic parts back together (motor assembly, cup assembly, flat cover), I tried to position the motor assembly within the cup at more or less the same position it was in when I took it apart (the "known position" I referred to earlier). Despite that, the mirror was way the heck out of calibration, and I had to re-program both the forward and reverse positions that I had stored in memory. I guess I'll have to do the same for my wife's memory positions (driver 2) next time she uses the car.

Michael


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

I took the easier route with mine, although I didn't have the abrasion that Michael points out on his. I didn't detach the face-plate, I merely cleaned then lubricated. I did look at detaching the face-plate but decided it probably wasn't worth the effort, without that step the whole job is very simple and not very time-consuming. I also didn't get the thing back into exactly the position it was in when I started, but I just re-saved the position and it was fine.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

By pure chance I happened to stumble upon a CC thread referring to the mirror motor assembly (the round black central part in Michael's photo #2, in post #22).

It seems that from 2006 to date, VW have adopted the Phaeton memory mirror motor across much of their vehicle range. So the Phaeton part number for this, 3D0 959 578C, is also used in the Eos, Golf, Jetta, Passat, CC, Scirocco and Touareg. That probably explains why it is "relatively cheap" at £70 ($110). At least, cheaper than an entire Phaeton mirror assembly.

So if all else fails with the cleaning process, they are out there in their millions if you can find them. Beware that suffix A and B are non-memory, only C has the memory function in its own right.

Chris


*Door mirror motor 3D0 959 578C (this one from a CC)*








image (c) vwvortex member OEMPlusCC


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## Keithuk (Nov 17, 2009)

*Mk6 Golf mirror LED removal*

Hi guys.

I've searched on here and this is the closest thread.

That's ok if you have a Phaeton but I have a Mk6 Golf and the LED indictor in the drivers door mirror.

I've had an error code for a few months. The indictor strip light works on both mirrors so I haven't really bothered about it. Last week I noticed the light in the drivers door the one with the fault code isn't as bright. VW in there stupid wisdom don't show these LED bulbs as a replacement item you have to buy a new light unit. I was going to count the number of LED lights when I went out today but I forgot. I think there are 5 or 6.

Turn signal indicator left - 5K0 949 101 - £37.03
Turn signal indicator right - 5K0 949 102 - £37.03

This is stupid you have to buy a new light if the bulb goes, I believe its the same for the rear fog light LED.

I've Googled LED amber bulb strip 12v. There are sellers on fleabay

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4x12LED-12...UAAOSwawpXvkH8

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-YELLOW-...7cYFOjeOjh6iWA

I was wondering if anyone else has had the error code or replace the LED bulbs in the mirror?

*VAG Error Code:* 00109

*Fault Location:*
Turn Signal Lamp: Driver, Left Mirror (L131) - Electrical Fault in Circuit

*Possible Cause:*
Wiring/Connector(s).
Voltage Supply for Left Mirror Turn Signal Lamp (L131) faulty.
Left Mirror Turn Signal Lamp (L131) faulty.

*Possible Solutions:*
Check/Replace all faulty Wiring/Connector(s).
Check Voltage Supply for Left Mirror Turn Signal Lamp (L131).
Check Left Mirror Turn Signal Lamp (L131) Operation. 

I've posted this problem on a few forums but no one has given a suitable reply. I had to order a new LED strip from my VW dealer as they don't keep them in stock. As the Ministry of Transport (MOT) test is due at the end of the month.

ETKA
turn signal indicator right 1K5 949 102 £37.03 - dealer price £34.20

The stupid thing is you don't buy an LED strip it comes complete in the lower black mirror cover.

I have ElsaWin and it says nothing about mirror removal. On YouTube there is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hgqPHMg6D4s


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