# Replacing Intake Manifold Runner Control motor (Flap motor) with pics



## SR-71 (Mar 31, 2004)

So you got a MIL and it came up with a couple of different codes pointing to your Flap motor being stuck open or basic settings being incomplete. Here is a quick DIY for changing that bitch. 










It is a fairly simple procedure but it's a little tight but work through it and you'll be fine.

*DISCLAIMER: Work on your car at your own risk. Do not blame me if you break something, strip a bolt or maim/kill yourself in the process.*

*TOOLS needed:*
Flat screwdriver
T30 torx bit in a ratchet (if you want to, you can grind the bit down to make it shorter but it worked for me just fine without grinding)
T30 torx key (like an allen key but with t30 torx) - optional
New flap motor
VAG-COM (to run basic settings)









*TIME needed:* 
30 minutes to an hour

*PITA factor: *
3 out of 10

*Prestep: Remove the engine cover if you have it. Skip the prestep if you have an CAI.*

*Step 1: Locate the IMRC motor. *
It's on the driver's side of the engine, under the HPFP on the side of the intake manifold. See the pic below, its circled in red. 









*Step 2: Remove the wiring harness that's in the way.*
Just unplug all connectors that you see attached to that big harness. Throttle body, HPFP, the motor itself, etc. It will make life a little easier. Don't worry about re-connecting - they all fit one way and you can't plug it in wrong. See pic.









*Step 3: Remove the three (3) T30 torx bolts holding the motor to the intake manifold and unclip the relay rod. *
It is a bit of a PITA since there's little room down there and you can't really see the bolts. There are 2 at the front and 1 in the back of the motor. Feel around for them and remove them with a T30 bit in a ratchet or a T30 key. Unclip the relay rod from the motor, it just pops off.










*Step 4: *
Remove the old motor.









*Step 5: Reinstall/recommend the new motor.*
Make sure the tab in the front lines up with the little hole. See pic. Also, put a little grease on the relay rod ball. I also recommend putting the bolts through the motor first and then sliding it up into place. Try to screw the bolts in by hand as much as you can, it'll save you some time.
Reconnect all the plugs on the harness. Like I said before - they only clip on one way. Install engine cover.









*Step 6: VAG-COM time.*

From www.ross-tech.com (http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/2.0l_TFSI_(AXX/BGB/BPJ/BPY/BWA)#Basic_Setting)

Intake Manifold Runner

Prerequisites:

* Ignition ON
* Engine OFF
* System voltage at least 11.0 V.

[Select]
[01 - Engine]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Group 142
[Go!]
Activate the Basic Setting.
[ON/OFF/Next]
Wait until Field 4 shows "ADP. O.K.".
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]

* Switch Ignition OFF for at least 60 seconds.




*That's it, you're done. Go drink yourself into a stupor to celebrate another victory!* :laugh:


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## [email protected] (Aug 21, 2008)

Great write up. We have done a few of these last month and one this month. Always in stock for those cars out of warranty:

http://www.dbcperformance.com/06F133482E_p/06f133482e.htm


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## joeyvdubGLI (Jan 12, 2006)

:thumbup: DIY Sticky!


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## gearshifter6 (Mar 18, 2007)

Thanks a lot for this!


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## SR-71 (Mar 31, 2004)

you're welcome! maybe we can get this added to the DIY list


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## Rimis (May 20, 2008)

Super explanation! 
I already drive a 50 kkm with this problem. 
I'm tired and I need to change this manifuld runner motor. 
But I didn't felt any negative efekts due to this fault.:sly:


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## SR-71 (Mar 31, 2004)

Rimis said:


> Super explanation!
> I already drive a 50 kkm with this problem.
> I'm tired and I need to change this manifuld runner motor.
> But I didn't felt any negative efekts due to this fault.:sly:


Thank you. I don't know what the negative effect of having a bad motor are...besides a Check Engine light and let throttle response.


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## kitvr6 (Jun 13, 2002)

ON step # 1 picture said locate IPM, what is it the hose that shoots down for? i broke that piece with the pastic connect to inner side by the yanking the Flap Rod, can someone please help?

now i have shaky idle and hard to stop the car while braking, have to step real hard to stop
this is emergency. please help!!! 

thank you so much


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## skateboy918 (Apr 26, 2008)

is it true that if the flapper motor on my car as a letter at the end of the PN, i can NOT replace it with one without a letter at the end of it?


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## bollinc (Apr 3, 2008)

Is the last step with the VAG necessary?


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## SR-71 (Mar 31, 2004)

kitvr6 said:


> ON step # 1 picture said locate IPM, what is it the hose that shoots down for? i broke that piece with the pastic connect to inner side by the yanking the Flap Rod, can someone please help?
> 
> now i have shaky idle and hard to stop the car while braking, have to step real hard to stop
> this is emergency. please help!!!
> ...


I'm not sure, I think you should stop by the dealer and get yourself a new hose asap.


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## SR-71 (Mar 31, 2004)

skateboy918 said:


> is it true that if the flapper motor on my car as a letter at the end of the PN, i can NOT replace it with one without a letter at the end of it?


Nah, you can get the latest revision of the flapper motor from DBC and replace it with that.


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## SR-71 (Mar 31, 2004)

bollinc said:


> Is the last step with the VAG necessary?


Yes, I'm afraid it is. The motor needs to be adapted to your car via VAG COM.


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## hardtimes (Apr 20, 2004)

SR-71 said:


> Yes, I'm afraid it is. The motor needs to be adapted to your car via VAG COM.


Sorry to bring this back.

Can't one just disconnect the battery for a few minutes then re-connect to reset everything? I have to replace mine, I have the part in, I just don't have vag-com:banghead:


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## releger (Dec 5, 2004)

hardtimes said:


> Sorry to bring this back.
> 
> Can't one just disconnect the battery for a few minutes then re-connect to reset everything? I have to replace mine, I have the part in, I just don't have vag-com:banghead:


No. Disconnecting the battery won't do the job. You have to get the ECU to run its adaptation function for the flapper motor. Disconnecting the battery won't do that. You'll have to find someone with vag-com to help you with this. Until then, the new flapper motor might throw codes or not position the flap properly.


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## hardtimes (Apr 20, 2004)

releger said:


> No. Disconnecting the battery won't do the job. You have to get the ECU to run its adaptation function for the flapper motor. Disconnecting the battery won't do that. You'll have to find someone with vag-com to help you with this. Until then, the new flapper motor might throw codes or not position the flap properly.


OK, Thanks for the info. Looks like I'll be making an appointment at the stealership.


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## Marble (Nov 20, 2002)

Just received a Warranty Extension for the Intake Manifold Runner Control Motor (and PCV). Guess I can just take this up with the dealer now.

:thumbup:


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## hardtimes (Apr 20, 2004)

Marble said:


> Just received a Warranty Extension for the Intake Manifold Runner Control Motor (and PCV). Guess I can just take this up with the dealer now.
> 
> :thumbup:


Yeah, got mine yesterday. The day after I had it adapted, three days after I installed, and three weeks after I paid for it. I thought that was special.:banghead:


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## najel (Apr 10, 2008)

hardtimes said:


> Yeah, got mine yesterday. The day after I had it adapted, three days after I installed, and three weeks after I paid for it. I thought that was special.:banghead:


You can get reimbursed if you have kept your receipts.


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## johnmara_jtag (Dec 5, 2010)

Hi, it looks like you have a great write-up but the pictures are gone. Thank you.


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## Marble (Nov 20, 2002)

johnmara_jtag said:


> Hi, it looks like you have a great write-up but the pictures are gone. Thank you.


I receive warranty information that states this issue is now covered. If you're having issues contact your local dealer.

:thumbup:


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## sanaxx (Feb 29, 2012)

Could you please replace the broken picture links?


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## HillRoad1 (Nov 20, 2008)

sanaxx said:


> Could you please replace the broken picture links?


X2


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## VdubEd85 (Apr 4, 2011)

Any chance on getting those images re-linked? Thanks,

Ed


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## Marble (Nov 20, 2002)

If you are having issues with the Intake Manifold Runner Control Motor, contact your local VW Dealership. There was an extension/ recall for the issue. My dealership replaced this as well as the HPFP and Intake Cam Follower last week with 99K miles on my GLI. Car runs great!

:thumbup:


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

Marble said:


> If you are having issues with the Intake Manifold Runner Control Motor, contact your local VW Dealership. There was an extension/ recall for the issue. My dealership replaced this as well as the HPFP and Intake Cam Follower last week with 99K miles on my GLI. Car runs great!
> 
> :thumbup:


This trio warranty is good for 192K kms for the canucks too, probably 120K miles for US.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

Since this has so many views, i'll post pix of the intake manifold runner actuator.

Old style part.








Here we see a failed one disassembled. 








From what I found, the motor failed, the brushes wore out. There was alot of black dust from the carbon brushes. I believe that when the flap gets stuck in the manifold (due to warping or carbon buildup) the motor is forced and wears out the brushes.









The new actuators have a larger motor in them, and when the ECM is pre-programmed it is put to not actuate the motor if it senses an amp spike (aka flap sticking). This eliminates the $200 actuator from force failing and burning out the motor brushes.:thumbup:

opcorn:

I usually just pull off the intake manifold. It gives a chance to clean the carbon off the flap and replace the injector o-rings and intake gasket.


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## ndccpf1 (Dec 13, 2001)

I replaced my flap motor yesterday. VW denied my request since I had 122K miles and the flap motor is warrantied to 120K miles ($200 @ local dealer for part). I had a hell of a time getting the three Torx30 bolts out then back in. Used the T30 "key" on screwdirver extension handle. But all done and back on the road. VW dealer tech definitely would have broken some other part of car while in their cause you need patience and time !! 

Your write up did allow me to tackle the job (move wire harnes... [re-install bolts to motor..) 

This would have made the job MUCH easier. I ordered it this week after I was done! : 

http://www.lowes.com/pd_338552-2232...pl=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?Ntt=torx&facetInfo= 


Thanks !


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## tamango (Jan 18, 2009)

*Help needed please*

I replaced today the flap motor. It was a B one and the new one is a Q (I mean the revision). After all the PITA with removing the old one I finally installed the new one there, but I cannot connect that linking rod to the arm of the motor, now it seems to be longer... Probably an adjustment to the position of that arm is needed, but how? I don't want to force it as I may damage it. 
Any ideas? 
Thanks for any help given!


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## ndccpf1 (Dec 13, 2001)

*Pivot Arm Flap Motor*

Once you have secure the motor, the black plastic "pivot ball" can move to match the linking arm position. There is a spring motion so the arm will want to move back on you. I added some silicone grease to the pivot ball to all the linking arm to "snap in" easier.


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## G_Lader_91 (Dec 28, 2006)

Pic links are broken sir.... 

Thanks for the write up though:thumbup:


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## SR-71 (Mar 31, 2004)

Sorry guys, I think mediafire shut down my account for "lack of activity" :bs: 
I'll try my best to dig those pictures up and rehost. 

I'm glad y'all can find it helpful.


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## Fornazari (Sep 19, 2005)

SR-71 said:


> Sorry guys, I think mediafire shut down my account for "lack of activity" :bs:
> I'll try my best to dig those pictures up and rehost.
> 
> I'm glad y'all can find it helpful.


 Please... Can you host it again?


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## SR-71 (Mar 31, 2004)

I cannot find those pictures


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## sergysa (Sep 30, 2011)

That's a bummer that there's no more pics... If I will replace my IMRC any time soon I will try to take some pics, maybe it'll help somebody.


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## imkbm67 (May 13, 2010)

*Driveing the flap motor by digital signal.*

I can drive the flap motor with electric signals. 
refer this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vA6PmsavIMk&feature=player_detailpage 


and. It is the solution of canceling the flap error. 

refer this. http://cafe.naver.com/powercar/4


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## steffenmartin (Sep 22, 2014)

*Pictures are back (I hope)*

I had the IMRC motor replaced in 2012 as part of a recall. However, it started to fail again, letting my CEL come up, quite a disappointment. Finished a dry run today to see how hard it would be to get to this troublemaker. Here are some pictures I took along the way (since the SR-71's images got lost, here's an attempt to bring them back).

Once the engine cover has been removed, this is what you're going to see:










Here's a closer look inside, showing the IMRC motor nicely tucked away behind tubes, hoses and that annoying wiring harness. You can (and should) move this out of the way in order to get access to the IMRC motor.










Looking inside even deeper (only the camera but not my head did fit in ;-) it reveals where the T30 torx screws are located.










And here another close-up:










I just got a replacement motor and VAG COM on order. Wish me look in actually performing the full replacement!


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## vr6b3passat (Aug 4, 2011)

I know this thread is really old now and bringing it back to life now is it possible to get this warranty now it seems i been having a bad issue with my intake manifold flapper valve the car has doesn't run right because of this what type of recall was this and is there a specific thing or name for this recall i need to ask my local volkswagen dealer about this? Please I hope someone can help on this issue, I know this thread is really old so I'm crossing my fingers on on a response to this. Thank you all


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## Fred930 (Mar 29, 2016)

Yes - this is really an old thread - and an old VW problem. I have a 2009 GTI which is on its 3rd intake manifold. As an earlier poster noted, VW has an extended warranty for this part to 120,000 miles. I was just beyond this mileage limit when the last one failed, but after dealer said they couldn't help me, was able to convince the VWNA rep to get me the third one. In my opinion it was a badly designed part, and apparently the later upgraded units weren't much better, either (my previous one lasted about 2.5 or 3 years).

During the last install - dealer tech also added a "kit", which looks like a small check valve on a vacuum line that is supposed to help. So far (now at 129,000 miles) all is great.

Anyway, my purpose in writing is that by talking to VWNA, you might get some assistance. But I know other times, the end mileage is a firm number and they won't budge. Other than wasting 45 minutes of your time, it can't hurt to call. Your Dealer will have the 800 number if you can't find it on the interweb, or if you are someplace other than the USA.


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