# 125k worth going stage 2??



## lucpost (Dec 19, 2011)

i got my car with 110k on it and started modding it progressivly. now i am at 125k with a cone filter, full turbo back, and i will be getting a aftermarket dv. my question is is it worth the 600 to go to unitronic stage 2 at that high of mileage. all my matience before me was done at audi and i take care of it. i just cant decide.


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## 20v GTI Guy (Aug 20, 2001)

It's always worth stage 2. :thumbup:


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## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

I would suggest saving after you get the tune, just encase to turbo goes or something else.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

If you don't have any chip/ECU modifications, yes it's definitely worth it.


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## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

Providing your maintenance is up to date. There should not be a problem.

Things to make sure you have in good condition:
Fuel Filter
Clutch
Haldex unit/pump
Timing Belt
Vacuum lines
MAF Sensor
O2 Sensors
MAP Sensor
IAT Sensor


:thumbup:


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## 2T2T5 (Dec 19, 2011)

I have 152K on my 2001 and it was well taken care of, lady driven... I have put the last 10k on a APR 93 tune and still boost all day long to 22 psi. I dont beat on my car all the time and I hardly boost around town so you should be just fine as long as your car is in good working order like everyone else has said. I would advise a boost gauge if you dont have one yet so you can monitor your turbo...


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## FatAce (Jan 30, 2012)

> It's always worth stage 2. :thumbup:


This


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## VWstung (Dec 19, 2010)

Deff gonna need a new clutch (and not a cheap oem one either)
Just had to installed a VR6 spec clutch with single-mass on my 225 with unitronic stage 1+ at only 92k miles
The stock clutch slipped in 6th and some of 5th almost immediately.

Oem Duel Mass + Performance = :thumbdown::facepalm:

Unitronic software is great, Actually put that cone filter and exhaust to work...... Do it.


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## lucpost (Dec 19, 2011)

Thanks for the replies guys. As for the clutch it was done about 15k ago so it shld be fine. All my maintaince is up to date but I have a real rough idle. I figured either I'm running real lean or I have a vacuum leak somewhere. I just am too lazy to trace it down since its such a pita.


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## Scigano (Mar 10, 2011)

lucpost said:


> All my maintaince is up to date but I have a real rough idle. I figured either I'm running real lean or I have a vacuum leak somewhere. I just am too lazy to trace it down since its such a pita.


The Stage 2 file could complicate issues w/ your boost leak under full throttle (or other issue, whatever is making it run lean). 

Have you access to anyway to pressure test the car? — be it your own compressor, a shop, or friend that can test it for you? At the very least, you could not get the full potential of the tune (and you could have a fair amount of 1.8T-voodoo under boost) (n' these motors luva the voodoo).


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

lucpost said:


> i got my car with 110k on it and started modding it progressivly. now i am at 125k with a cone filter, full turbo back, and i will be getting a aftermarket dv. my question is is it worth the 600 to go to unitronic stage 2 at that high of mileage. all my matience before me was done at audi and i take care of it. i just cant decide.


Luc just do it already! haha


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## lucpost (Dec 19, 2011)

Scigano said:


> The Stage 2 file could complicate issues w/ your boost leak under full throttle (or other issue, whatever is making it run lean).
> 
> Have you access to anyway to pressure test the car? — be it your own compressor, a shop, or friend that can test it for you? At the very least, you could not get the full potential of the tune (and you could have a fair amount of 1.8T-voodoo under boost) (n' these motors luva the voodoo).


whats the best way to check for the leaks? i have a compressor and probally have the vacuum reader gauge in the garage, but im not sure where to hook it up to.


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## lucpost (Dec 19, 2011)

Mantvis said:


> Luc just do it already! haha


haha get ur car done first!


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

lucpost said:


> haha get ur car done first!


We shall go for a ride next weekend


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## lucpost (Dec 19, 2011)

Mantvis said:


> We shall go for a ride next weekend


haha alright dude text me when


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## Scigano (Mar 10, 2011)

lucpost said:


> whats the best way to check for the leaks? i have a compressor and probally have the vacuum reader gauge in the garage, but im not sure where to hook it up to.


This is one of the most popular ways, but pressurizing the TIP in general is the right idea. This setup allows you to do it right at the mouth of the tip — you just have to build the can-thing-a-majig first. You wouldn't want to unplug any of the other TIP outlets (like for the N75 or Diverter Valve) because those connections could be where your leak is (if that is your issue). 

A boost gauge would be a good way of determining if your idle/lean issue is because of a leak. A bad idle w/ fluttering or shallow vacuum is a pretty good indicator. Have you VAGCOM'ed the car for codes that may give any other indications?


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## lucpost (Dec 19, 2011)

Scigano said:


> This is one of the most popular ways, but pressurizing the TIP in general is the right idea. This setup allows you to do it right at the mouth of the tip — you just have to build the can-thing-a-majig first. You wouldn't want to unplug any of the other TIP outlets (like for the N75 or Diverter Valve) because those connections could be where your leak is (if that is your issue).
> 
> A boost gauge would be a good way of determining if your idle/lean issue is because of a leak. A bad idle w/ fluttering or shallow vacuum is a pretty good indicator. Have you VAGCOM'ed the car for codes that may give any other indications?


yeah ive seen something before to test the pressure. i think my dv might be messed up it. when my cars cold it flutters. so that might be my issues. i plan on getting a boost gauge soon. also i am throwing 10 codes.. 
1425 Tank Vent.Valve Short to Ground
1117 O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank1-Sensor2 Short to Ground
1468 EVAP Canister Purge Solenoid Valve Short Circuit to Ground
1435 Sec.Air Inj.Sys.Pump Relay Circ. Short to ground
1421 Sec.Air Inj.Valve Circ Short to Ground
1472 EVAP Emission Contr.LDP Circ Short to Ground
0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circ Low Input
1115 O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank1-Sensor1 Short to Ground
1114 Bank1-Sensor2 Internal Resistant too High
0140 O2 Sensor Circ.,Bank1-Sensor2 No Activity Detected

:banghead::banghead::banghead:


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## lucpost (Dec 19, 2011)

Bump if you could help me out. I don't want to start a new thread


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## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

lucpost said:


> yeah ive seen something before to test the pressure. i think my dv might be messed up it. when my cars cold it flutters. so that might be my issues. i plan on getting a boost gauge soon. also i am throwing 10 codes..
> 1425 Tank Vent.Valve Short to Ground
> 1117 O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank1-Sensor2 Short to Ground
> 1468 EVAP Canister Purge Solenoid Valve Short Circuit to Ground
> ...



Looks like a whole lot of un-plugged emissions components. What was done to the car in the past month?


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## lucpost (Dec 19, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> Looks like a whole lot of un-plugged emissions components. What was done to the car in the past month?


Catless down pipe. I got the anti fouler spacer too. I'm not throwing the 0420 code which usually comes tho.


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## Scigano (Mar 10, 2011)

If anyone had stage 1 or 1+ before going Stage 2, was the onset of boost more severe/not-as-smooth as the lesser tunes? Stage 1+ does a tremendously good job — OEM-like IMO — of curbing spikes at part-throttle and making the car run as well as well as it runs hard.


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## lucpost (Dec 19, 2011)

Scigano said:


> If anyone had stage 1 or 1+ before going Stage 2, was the onset of boost more severe/not-as-smooth as the lesser tunes? Stage 1+ does a tremendously good job — OEM-like IMO — of curbing spikes at part-throttle and making the car run as well as well as it runs hard.


Have you had both 1+ and 2? How noticeable is the difference ?


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## Scigano (Mar 10, 2011)

No, I'm sorry — _I_ was asking. :laugh:

I was asking whether the increase from Stage 1+ to 2 comes at the expense of some of the driveability or smoothness of the previous tunes, or if the management of boost spikes and smooth power delivery go untouched (since I think Stage 2 is supposed to be taking advantage of the improved flow in the mid n' high range — not spiking harder down low)?


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## hitmanhite (Jun 17, 2002)

lucpost said:


> Thanks for the replies guys. As for the clutch it was done about 15k ago so it shld be fine. All my maintaince is up to date but I have a real rough idle. I figured either I'm running real lean or I have a vacuum leak somewhere. I just am too lazy to trace it down since its such a pita.


Enough said, better not do it.


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## lucpost (Dec 19, 2011)

well now im all good with my vacuum leaks and such, now to decide to go stg 2 on stock turbo or just wait and save up for a elimantor kit or bt


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

I don't know if I would go with an eliminator. I would probably save up my money for a kit from CTS.


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## Raek (Aug 1, 2003)

lucpost said:


> yeah ive seen something before to test the pressure. i think my dv might be messed up it. when my cars cold it flutters. so that might be my issues. i plan on getting a boost gauge soon. also i am throwing 10 codes..
> 1425 Tank Vent.Valve Short to Ground
> 1117 O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank1-Sensor2 Short to Ground
> 1468 EVAP Canister Purge Solenoid Valve Short Circuit to Ground
> ...



A lot of those codes would benefit from you removing some stuff. My Jetta's secondary air injection pooped the bed. So I removed that, N249 and PCV. Sent the ECU to UNI to remove the O2 codes, etc. Car ran wonderfully after that. No codes!

I followed this: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ng-up-Engine-bay...Removing-SAI-N249-PCV-EVAP

It also really tidies up the engine bay. Makes a lot more room for hands to get in there. Hahaha.


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## lucpost (Dec 19, 2011)

warranty225cpe said:


> I don't know if I would go with an eliminator. I would probably save up my money for a kit from CTS.


I've been researching the eliminator and haven't find much for our cars. I just want to do something small just with stock mani, my existing dp etc. just get fmic, clutch, injectors Etc. I do like the f23 idea tho too and i Also having a friend building an a4 f23 that could help me out. Hmm. 




Raek said:


> A lot of those codes would benefit from you removing some stuff. My Jetta's secondary air injection pooped the bed. So I removed that, N249 and PCV. Sent the ECU to UNI to remove the O2 codes, etc. Car ran wonderfully after that. No codes!
> 
> I followed this: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ng-up-Engine-bay...Removing-SAI-N249-PCV-EVAP
> 
> It also really tidies up the engine bay. Makes a lot more room for hands to get in there. Hahaha.


Thanks for the response, but I found out that I had a short to my o2 sensor wiring between the strut bar and strut tower. I pinched the wire. But I deleted the n249. Kept PVC system for emissions since I only had about a month to fix everything


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