# NGK,Bosch... What VR6 Turbo plug to choose...



## Norwegian-VR6 (Feb 6, 2002)

I know most VR6 Turbo owners use the NGK BKR7E plugs. Reason I dont know, but the y sure are cheap. Im running them my self, and the cars runs good with stock gap.
But I asume newer technology plugs, and more expensive plugs a5re so much better?
Thing is, that I see alot off other euro VR6 Turbo's. And alot off them, they run on this plugs: http://partsdirect.s-cars.org/...d=145
All the Audi S/RS owners over here say they are awesome..
So I think im gonna try a set, and see.


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## vr6chris (May 26, 2003)

*Re: NGK,Bosch... What VR6 Turbo plug to choose... (Norwegian-VR6)*

i have run the ngk v-power plugs the past couple of years with great results. part number r5671a-9


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## Norwegian-VR6 (Feb 6, 2002)

*Re: NGK,Bosch... What VR6 Turbo plug to choose... (vr6chris)*

They are like 2 bucks a piece. Thats good. Any gapping on them? 

http://www.motorheadcity.com/r...88641


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## vr6chris (May 26, 2003)

*Re: NGK,Bosch... What VR6 Turbo plug to choose... (Norwegian-VR6)*

i have them around .030. with no issues. yeah, its nice they're pretty cheap. i get them for like a 1.80 and i buy about 12-18 at a time


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## Norwegian-VR6 (Feb 6, 2002)

*Re: NGK,Bosch... What VR6 Turbo plug to choose... (vr6chris)*

Im gonna try a set


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## 84_GLI_coupe (Apr 3, 2001)

*Re: NGK,Bosch... What VR6 Turbo plug to choose... (vr6chris)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vr6chris* »_i have run the ngk v-power plugs the past couple of years with great results. part number r5671a-9

Those are VERY cold plugs, and part of NGK's race plug lineup. I've got a box of R5671A-7 that I used to run before I switched to an EDIS coilpack. Those plugs do not have resistors, so you must run ignition wires with resistors in the connectors. I wish they worked with my EDIS coilpack, but there's just waaaaay too much electrical noise, even with a filter cap at the coilpack, and fully shielded VR pickup cable.


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## vr6chris (May 26, 2003)

the 9's are actually only 2 heat ranges colder than stock


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## 84_GLI_coupe (Apr 3, 2001)

*Re: (vr6chris)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vr6chris* »_the 9's are actually only 2 heat ranges colder than stock 

You sure about that? The stock NGK heat range for your VR is a 5.


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## vr6chris (May 26, 2003)

*Re: (84_GLI_coupe)*

yes, stock heat range on the v-power plug is a 7. they go up to an 11. maybe even 12, not sure


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## 84_GLI_coupe (Apr 3, 2001)

*Re: (vr6chris)*

NGK's V-power plugs are standard copper plugs, with notches in the center electrode. NGK's heat range scale does not deviate between their product lines. The part number you gave is for their special racing plugs; that plug has a nickel alloy center electode, resistorless, non-extended tip, and a heat range of 9. The stock VR plugs are a Bosch 8 heat range, and an NGK 5 heat range.


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## kevhayward (Mar 13, 2007)

So Bosch heat ranges are reversed? Bigger number = Colder?
Interesting.
I also thought the "R" in the NGK part number meant resistor? But I could be wrong!
I use the 5671A-7 myself. No problems with them at all.
I did notice with the 8 and 9 grades, cold starting was grumpy and they fouled very easily (sooted up).


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## ade007 (Jun 12, 2007)

i believe
ngk higher the number colder the plug 
bosch lower the number colder the plug ?
for every 75 to 100 bhp over stock you want a step colder plug.
plug heat is to self clean. too hot of a plug can egnite fuel with the hot tip and cause detonation. so its safer to run the coldest plug u can get away with without fouling the plug


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## 84_GLI_coupe (Apr 3, 2001)

*Re: (ade007)*

Yes, NGK's heat ranges are reversed from Bosch's. NGK's higher numbers are colder. Bosch's lower numbers are colder.
NGK 5 ~ Bosch 8
NGK 6 ~ Bosch 7
NGK 7 ~ Bosch 6
The R5671A-x are a race plug, they do not follow the usual defined part coding scheme. The R in this case is just part of the number, a resistor notation would occur as the 2nd-4th letter, depending on the thread code used. ie: BK*R*7E, BCP*R*7ES, etc.

_Quote, originally posted by *ade007* »_
for every 75 to 100 bhp over stock you want a step colder plug.
plug heat is to self clean. too hot of a plug can egnite fuel with the hot tip and cause detonation. so its safer to run the coldest plug u can get away with without fouling the plug

Your power estimates shouldn't be used as a guide. The heat range really depends on more than power output. I needed an NGK 7 plug in my 11:1 heavily cammed n/a 8v, but that heat range is also good for double the power in a 300whp 8v turbo engine. Kinda like how the power stroke in a turbo engine puts less load per bhp on a rod than in a n/a engine.
Your other notes about plugs are correct.


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## ade007 (Jun 12, 2007)

some info on heat range here 
http://www.ngk.com/charglossary.asp?kw=Heat+range


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## kevhayward (Mar 13, 2007)

*Re: (84_GLI_coupe)*


_Quote, originally posted by *84_GLI_coupe* »_Yes, NGK's heat ranges are reversed from Bosch's. NGK's higher numbers are colder. Bosch's lower numbers are colder.
NGK 5 ~ Bosch 8
NGK 6 ~ Bosch 7
NGK 7 ~ Bosch 6
The R5671A-x are a race plug, they do not follow the usual defined part coding scheme. The R in this case is just part of the number, a resistor notation would occur as the 2nd-4th letter, depending on the thread code used. ie: BK*R*7E, BCP*R*7ES, etc.


Great info, thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
In my VRT, I've tried the following plugs, all with the stock coilpack and "out of box" gaps:-
NGK BKR7E, 
NGK R5671-A "V Power"
Audi TT plugs
Bosch Yytrium 16V plugs
Brisk D12S-8.
NGK BKR7EIX Iridium
Of all those, the R5671-A and the Brisk D12S ran the best.
If the R5671-A has no resistor, what kind of problems can that cause?
I believe my HT leads have the standard 6Kohm resistance, if that makes any odds or not?


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## kurty85 (Sep 17, 2007)

*Re: (kevhayward)*

Anyone tried running surface gap plugs? NGK sells r6601-8 which has a reach of 19mm just like bkr7e...just have to have enough spark voltage to push them


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## 84_GLI_coupe (Apr 3, 2001)

*Re: (kurty85)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kevhayward* »_
Great info, thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
In my VRT, I've tried the following plugs, all with the stock coilpack and "out of box" gaps:-
NGK BKR7E, 
NGK R5671-A "V Power"
Audi TT plugs
Bosch Yytrium 16V plugs
Brisk D12S-8.
NGK BKR7EIX Iridium
Of all those, the R5671-A and the Brisk D12S ran the best.
If the R5671-A has no resistor, what kind of problems can that cause?
I believe my HT leads have the standard 6Kohm resistance, if that makes any odds or not?


You should not run out-of-box gaps! 0.028" on each plug is what you want in your application!
Some plugs have resistors in them to eliminate electro-magnetic interference, which affects signals to/from your ECU, and also the ECU itself. In a wasted-spark ignition (ie: coilpack) if the high voltage coil windings don't have enough resistance, and the wires or plugs don't have resistors, the coil might not be able to drive enough voltage to create a strong enough spark. If your wires have resistors, you can use resistor or resistorless plugs just fine.

_Quote, originally posted by *kurty85* »_Anyone tried running surface gap plugs? NGK sells r6601-8 which has a reach of 19mm just like bkr7e...just have to have enough spark voltage to push them

Those are really meant for rotary engines, or any engine that has a hot enough combustion cycle to *melt* the ground electrode of the plug. You cannot adjust gap, and that is a problem for our boosted cars.


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## kevhayward (Mar 13, 2007)

Cheers!
Can you recommend a really good plug gapper? The cheap ones seem to be a lot of guesswork!


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## kurty85 (Sep 17, 2007)

*Re: (84_GLI_coupe)*

It has nothing to do with being able to melt the ground electrode of the plug we just dont have a powerful enough ignition system to run them(need at least 50K volts on each plug). If someone ran 034 high output coil driver packs which can supply 80k-100k, we could run them fine. Gap is not that important, as you buy the plug which has the best reach(22.5m stock on pzfr5d-11 plugs). F1 engines use surface gap plugs and the plugs have 30 to 40 thousandths clearance above the piston. These engines spin 15-20k rpm with turbos. Surface gap plugs also dont have a true heat range as they get as hot as the cylinder walls themselves. Would like to see somebody try and run these...


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## kevhayward (Mar 13, 2007)

You mean these ? - http://www.034motorsport.com/p...d=277
They be fine on your 24V as you already run COP, but 12Vs will need a good standalone with COP maps to run them properly.


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## kurty85 (Sep 17, 2007)

*Re: (kevhayward)*

Yep. Those are the ones.


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

The BKR7E shows as NGK 4644 at most parts stores now. BKR7E will show as NLA.


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## pimS (Jan 7, 2009)

I've been using bosch FD5POR aka rs2 plugs. I'm quite pleased with them.


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## Norwegian-VR6 (Feb 6, 2002)

I got misfires with FD5POR RS2 plugs.

Almost 10000kms on Bosch f2cs this year. Been working perfect for me


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

Just reporting in after some usage... the NGK 4644 aka BKR7E seems to foul easier than the Autolite plugs I ran previously.


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## Norwegian-VR6 (Feb 6, 2002)

Bosch F3cs @27psi no issues and no gapping


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## V-dubbulyuh (Nov 13, 2005)

DieGTi said:


> Just reporting in after some usage... the NGK 4644 aka BKR7E seems to foul easier than the Autolite plugs I ran previously.


I use the Autolites for testing and honestly have not even noticed much difference from the 4644. More power to cheap ish :thumbup:


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

I ran a set of Autolite (Honeywell) for years without issue... ngk starting to foul inside 10k miles. I'm throwing a new set of ngk in but if I have the same experience again then I'm definitely going back to Autolite.


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