# Sticky  G60 Tuning and Common G60 Info



## JBETZ (Feb 17, 2000)

*G60 Digifunk Monkey Spunk FAQ FYI*

Hey everybody.... I'd like to get some help for an FYI, FAQ my G60 runs like digifunk, Q&A write up. 
I didn't see this in the FAQ... maybe I missed it?
I'll bet there is some info that could come from the CCA site... haven't looked in awhile.
We get a ton of phone calls from G60 owners all over the world... every day because their G60 cars run poorly.. and to be honest it is almost always something very basic. If you haven't tried it, it is pretty hard to diagnose a poor running car over the phone. Kind of like calling the doctor for a examination over the phone and expecting a cure and good heath. 
So here is a start please help.
I will edit this top post and add to it as it grows.
My plan is to email this to guys when they have G60 running problems.
Lets come up with some questions from this forum and give the answers.
Thanks in advance for all of your combined knowledge and contributions.
Q: So my car goes full pig fat rich at at 3,4 or 5k rpm and looses all its power or goes completely flat on power.
A: Well you need to start with the basics. Good tune up parts, Bosch W6DPO plugs good Bosch cap and rotor, plug wires, fuel filter, correct timing procedure, vac line replacement not just check them, ecu vac line 1M, replace ground wires and wires for the battery, alternator, starer and ecu...ect after all these cars are near 14 years old. Check for boost leaks they can cause the funk mode. Run the correct Bosch O2 sensor, check or replace your knock sensor, if the wire to it is rubbed through replace it. Did you check to see if your cam timing slipped? Replace the #30 ecu power control relay.
Q: So my car goes full dust fart'n lean at at 3,4 or 5k rpm and looses all its power or goes completely flat on power. The plugs are bright white and it pings.
Q: What is the correct ignition timing procedure for my G60?
Q: How do I check my cam timing?
A:???


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## JBETZ (Feb 17, 2000)

*Re: G60 Digifunk Monkey Spunk FAQ FYI (JBETZ)*

ok, no one cares about this... thats cool http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## smockrw (Dec 11, 2001)

I think people care about it, in my case I am watching; my digi 1 hasn't replaced my digi 2 yet (soon).


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

*Re: G60 Digifunk Monkey Spunk FAQ FYI (JBETZ)*

I see alot of these old corrados that are having problems that are
tune up related, there is more to a tune up then plugs cap and rotor
if they are committed to making there G60 a good running car then they need to step up and get dirty . go threw the whole engine bay 
and fix th little stuff that adds up. broken wires leaky hoses new
sensors. then i would refer them to this.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=697670


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## dubbernutter (Feb 23, 2003)

*Re: G60 Digifunk Monkey Spunk FAQ FYI (REPOMAN)*

It sounds like most people, including myself, need to get into the Bently a little more often.
I do have an ignition timing trick that id like to share, would this be a good thread to present it??? I dont want flames!!
It basicly a vernier(is that the right word?) for the distributer, pretty simple really.


_Modified by dubbernutter at 11:14 PM 7-11-2004_


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## g60inNE (Oct 12, 2003)

*Re: G60 Digifunk Monkey Spunk FAQ FYI (dubbernutter)*

i think i'm lucky that my father has been a mechanic for the last 30 years but had never touch a vw till i got my corrado. but he gave me good advice buy the book, learn what the major thing do and don't do and go from there. by car only has 40k but it has sat for almost 3 years. so long that the oil filter rotted. i went and replaced everything. cap, rotor, wires, plugs, filters, fluids, sent the injectors out to be cleaned and tested. it runs better now then when i bought it. i am not the most know it all person but if i see a question that i could answer i chime in with my 2 cents. but for now my answer to everything would be to try and figure it out on your own first and then if you can't ask someone. but i think it is more rewarding for yourself to have a prob, figure it out and fix it on your own and then stand back and look at your car runnin right and go damn i'm good. well i do hope this thread works out cause god knows i've could of used it a few times.


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## JBETZ (Feb 17, 2000)

*Re: G60 Digifunk Monkey Spunk FAQ FYI (dubbernutter)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubbernutter* »_It sounds like most people, including myself, need to get into the Bently a little more often.
I do have an ignition timing trick that id like to share, would this be a good thread to present it??? I dont want flames!!
It basicly a vernier(is that the right word?) for the distributer, pretty simple really.

_Modified by dubbernutter at 11:14 PM 7-11-2004_


Oh man please share.
I had hoped that this would be specifically for the tricks to making these cars run right.
Thanks


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## G60syncro (Feb 7, 2001)

*Re: G60 Digifunk Monkey Spunk FAQ FYI (dubbernutter)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubbernutter* »_It basicly a vernier(is that the right word?) for the distributer, pretty simple really.

_Modified by dubbernutter at 11:14 PM 7-11-2004_

FYI: A vernier scale is just a way of marking an instrument to make very small increments visible to the human eye. Guess the name of the guy who invented it.... Basically, it involves using the smallest increment used on the instument itself and comparing it to the vernier scale to get an even smaller incementation. Example: a caliper generally has it's smallest scale graduated every .025"... The Vernier scale next to it is graduated every .024" which gives you a .001" variation to compare. Counting the number of .024" that are off mark actually gives you the number of .001" after the last .025" mark measured.
Well, I guess that was off topic but educationnal!!!


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## OdorCide (Aug 4, 2000)

*Re: G60 Digifunk Monkey Spunk FAQ FYI (dubbernutter)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubbernutter* »_
You may think im crazy, and i am...

Only thing I understood in the whole post, went right over my head.


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## bbmcorrado (Jun 3, 2004)

*Re: G60 Digifunk Monkey Spunk FAQ FYI (dubbernutter)*

bringin it back...


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## rallyegolf (Oct 22, 2004)

*Re: G60 Digifunk Monkey Spunk FAQ FYI (bbmcorrado)*

One other thing to make sure that Im not wure if it was mentioned, but I believe the 1 meter long hose has to go into the correct side of the mannifold. 

Also there are some awsome posts with correct timing procedures here that you may want to cut and past on a generic email to send out. 
I have an idea. On your message when your customers call you, have it say..." Press 8 to hear the the web link to find out why your g60 runs like cra p..
Awsome idea to get this all this info in one place. Maybe you can print in on the back of all your invoices so all your customers get a copy whenever they buy anything from you. You can tell them," just look on the back of your reciept and if that doesnt do it, call me and ill sell you the parts to fix it.


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## mrkrad (Nov 9, 2000)

*Re: G60 Digifunk Monkey Spunk FAQ FYI (rallyegolf)*

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerosearch
^^ all your answers to why your car doesn't run, if not feel free to hit my IM button i'm usually online during the day (EST) to chat or shoot the shiz or whatever..


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## LooseNut (Nov 27, 2001)

*Re: G60 Digifunk Monkey Spunk FAQ FYI (mrkrad)*

I think a FAQ should be precluded with a section titled 
"So you just bought a G60 Corrado, this is what you do first."
1. Change/test battery
2. Change/test alternator or voltage regulator
3. Replace battery wires with thick ones. Clean up connections.
4. Clean up all ECU grounds. Relocate that one ground to the TB.
5. Replace all vacuum hoses. ECU hose is of a critical 1 meter length.
6. Replace blue coolant temp sensor. (it's cheap) If gauge is not working, replace black sensor too.
7. Test throttle switches with a multimeter.
8. Test resistence of the injectors and harness. 
9. Return ignition time to STOCK specs for atleast 6 months. The character of the G60 changes everyday and you need to be familiar with it before you decide to melt a piston (happens to the best of us.)
Besides, it will only be running for 3 months during this time.
10. Do not even look at performance parts for 8 months.
11. Invest in a good air filter!
12. Tighten all IC hose connections.
13. *Install an air fuel gauge* Learn the difference between open and closed loop.
14. Clean TB and ISV with carb cleaner (or whatever works for you)
15. Replace the O-ring on the idle adjustment screw. Dont be afraid to remove the screw and get a good look at it.
16. Fix all broken wires from the O2 sensor all the way past the first connection/harness. Ensure the O2 sensor ground wire is clean and strong.

Something like that and then more expensive items can be tracked down in the FAQ. Like if a/f gauge isn't cycling - replace O2 sensor.
Feel free to add more to the list.











_Modified by LooseNut at 10:09 AM 8-24-2007_


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## JBETZ (Feb 17, 2000)

*Re: G60 Digifunk Monkey Spunk FAQ FYI (LooseNut)*

That is one good list of basics!
Now I can cut and paste this to the 50 people per week that call us and email us when there cars are running funky.
Thanks


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## starrd (Dec 30, 2001)

*Re: G60 Digifunk Monkey Spunk FAQ FYI (JBETZ)*

Found this today, 
http://volkswagen.mskdotru/injector/digifant/digifant_tr.zip
Trouble shooting for digifant
replace dot with .
_Modified by starrd at 4:02 AM 4-15-2009_


_Modified by starrd at 4:03 AM 4-15-2009_


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## E60 (Apr 29, 2004)

*Re: G60 Digifunk Monkey Spunk FAQ FYI (starrd)*


_Quote, originally posted by *starrd* »_Found this today, 
http://volkswagen.msk.ru/injector/digifant_tr.zip
Trouble shooting for digifant

damn dude. thats awesome.


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## JBETZ (Feb 17, 2000)

*Re: G60 Digifunk Monkey Spunk FAQ FYI (E60)*

Can someone please get the ignition timing procedure in here. I know it is floating around out there somewhere.
Thanks in advance.


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## JustMike (Jun 10, 2002)

*Re: G60 Digifunk Monkey Spunk FAQ FYI (JBETZ)*

Stolen from the zip.doc 
btw grad = degree's 
Ignition timing:
Engine at normal operating temperature, plug disconnected from coolant temperature sensor, engine speed 2000...2500 1/min, measure ignition timing (using timing light (strobe) TDC sensor).
Set value: 4...8 Grad before TDC
If necessary, adjust ignition timing by turning the ignition distributor.
Set value for setting:
5...7 Grad before TDC
Reconnect plug to the coolant temperature sensor, accelerate three times, check idle setting.

Ignition-timing advance:
Measure ignition timing with engine speed n = 2500 1/min and coolant temperature sensor disconnected, and note down value. Reconnect the temperature sensor and measure the ignition timing again at n = 2500 1/min. The difference between the two values is the ignition-timing advance.
Set value: 20...30 Grad
If no advance is measured, either a lead to the coolant temperature sensor is open-circuited, or the control unit is defective.


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## JBETZ (Feb 17, 2000)

*Re: G60 Digifunk Monkey Spunk FAQ FYI (JustMike)*

Thanks, you guys have been a great help!


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## JBETZ (Feb 17, 2000)

*Re: G60 Digifunk Monkey Spunk FAQ FYI (JBETZ)*

Here are some belt sizes, add more if you know the sizes.
Thanks
Serp Belt	
W A/C Stock Conti 6PK 1755
68mm Conti 6PK 1743
63mm Flennor 6PK 1738
58mm Conti 6PK 1733 (works with 53mm SC & Tensioner cap)
53mm Conti 6PK 1715
50mm Conti 6PK 1715
N A/C Stock Gates K060650
68mm Conti 6PK 1642
58mm Conti 6PK 1623 (also use with 50-53 mm & tensioner cap)
57mm Gates K060790 / 6PK2005
53mm Gates K060623
50mm Gates K060623
16V kit
50-53 mm No AC	Conti 6PK1980
68 mm No AC Gates K060785
65 mm With AC	88-1/16” (2235mm) nominal 6PK2236
V-Belt	Stock	Conti	AVX 10+735
No A/C Conti	AVX 10+655

No Charger
W/AC 6PK1505 Goodyear #4060592
No AC 6PK1255 Dayco #5060495 Would Work Better With Shorter Belt



_Modified by JBETZ at 1:27 PM 2-11-2006_


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## cbgthor (Feb 16, 2002)

*Re: G60 Digifunk Monkey Spunk FAQ FYI (JBETZ)*

---------------------------------
Just a general note:
The _ Bentley Corrado Factory Repair Manual_ is as valuable a tool for the DIY G60 mechanic as anything.
The parts I will refer to are plainly illustrated in diagrams in that manual if you're not sure what they are.
---------------------------------
Basic info on Digifant fuel injection
Advanced info on Digifant fuel injection
---------------------------------
mrkrad's basic explanation of warm-up and such, related to the blue coolant temp sensor.

_Quote, originally posted by *mrkrad* »_1. A car requires more fuel when dead cold.
1a. The blue CTS tells the car its dead cold. 
1aa. The black cts is a good way to test the blue cts, swap harnesses.
2. The car needs less fuel to idle when it has reached optimal temps (AKA WARMED UP).
2a. faulty blue cts will dump cold start fueling when warm - aka poor mpg, no sweeping action on a/f gauge, car will bog and die.
3. Closed loop emissions control mode is engaged when a valid signal, or BLUE CTS temperature range is met see #2a.)
3a. the heating element in the o2 sensor warms it up in 30-60 seconds so it can accurately feed data to the ecu
3b. the o2 wiring is usually both flex stressed and heat stressed (brittle).
3c. failure for the ecu to see an o2 signal will assume the car is very lean, thus the car will keep adding fuel.
3d. shorting of the o2 heating element 12V wires to the ECU INPUT 0-1V, will permanently damage the ecu and make the car run like butt.
if you swap the blue and black cts harness, and its great, go buy a $14 blue cts, its safe to drive on the black cts, be gentle on hot days, monitor MFA OIL TEMPS for cooling system malfunction.
if the blue cts is good, warm the car up, find the wot switch (See sig), and tape it shut. Go for a drive? Feels good? If so you have bad o2 system: wires, o2 sensor, ecu, anything in between... welcome to vw viring








This lesson assumes you have gone to the real forum AKA G60 and done all the basics, including tune-up.
We are capable of testing ecu's but honestly its not worth my time. My car works, and if you believe you've fried the ecu circuitry, it is possible to just drive with wot switch plugged in or chipping the ecu to not participate in emissions control, for off road purposes. race car folks dont need emissions/catalysts.
The bucking and such is REALLY bad, especially for the tranny, motor, and motor mounts, don't drive it like that man, show some respect.


---------------------------------
The Idle Switch, and its relation to the ISV:

_Quote, originally posted by *mrkrad* »_it tells the isv to engage and also tells the ecu to cut fuel when you let off the gas (decel fuel cut).
The isv does two things:
1. holds the idle at desired idle minimum 840~'ish
2. Engages an air leak when you clutch out so the engine rpm won't drop too fast (!!) and stall.
at least in the states, that is all it does.
also i think it prevents a runaway motor, if you are at idle it cuts fuel at 2500rpm or somewhere bout there, badly tuned cars will surge from 1500-2500(cut) and back and forth.

---------------------------------
Setting the idle:

_Quote, originally posted by *jwatts* »_leave blue coolant temp sensor connected.
The procedureis: set to 1000rpm with ISV disconnected
Then fine tune afterwards, if needed. 
If it stalls, or dips and revs, then you need to open the idle screw up until it smooths out.
If the revs hang high, then you need to close it until they settle to your target idle speed.

---------------------------------
Air/Fuel Gauge Behavior

_Quote, originally posted by *mrkrad* »_basically once warm or acceptable signal (varies on chip)->
1. goes to close loop which is a sweep lean to rich
2. except when you go wot (rich lights)
3. except when you go idle decel (no lights)
4. there's a few other times when the car decides to hold it lean or rich for emissions purposes, shortly.
some of the chips will go very fast based on detection of valid signal (1 minute on sub freezing day, less than 30 seconds on warm day). Other chips rely more on the blue CTS. 

---------------------------------

_Quote, originally posted by *TBT-PassatG60* »_For timing you should be seeing around 15-18[hg -vacuum] at idle with a stock cam. If you're seeing less either your timing is retarded or you have a vacuum leak.

---------------------------------
*Basic Steps to Troubleshooting Bad Idle on a Corrado G60, for Beginners*(What I've Done In This Situation That Has Worked For Me)

First, do this basics to eliminate some variables:
DEGUNK THE Idle Stabilizer Valve (ISV) - Pull it off, spray it full of brake/parts/carb cleaner. Shake it around with the cleaner inside, empty it out, repeat until the cleaner comes out clear. Remember, do not unplug the ISV with the key in the accessory or on position. THis is bad for the ECU.
Check for vacuum leaks. There are a load of vacuum lines on the G60. The stock lines are rubber wrapped in a braided cloth, and can dry-rot and crack. I replaced all of mine, from the dealer, for less than $40. Just ask for the diameters and lengths, and they should be able to cut them for you.
Here are the sizes, courtesy of the G60 Forum FAQ:
3.5 mm size line: 34" (brake booster line) + 39.5" (1 meter ECU line) + 6" (FPR) + 55"(charcoal mainifold) + 30" (air box to brake booster line) = 14.3 feet
9 mm size line: 40" (throttle body to charcoal)
5 mm size line: = 23" (brake booster to charcoal) + 28" (fuel tank breather line to charcoal) = 4 feet 3 inches.
That one-meter throttle-body to ECU line is important. There are two vacuum lines that go to the throttle body, and the ECU line connects to the nipple closest to the passenger side.

Second, Look at the electrical stuff.
Make sure there is no interruption in the spark: spark plugs/wires...make sure they are in good shape.
There's an electrical switch on the throttle body called the "idle switch" that should click on when the throttle is closed. Not surpisingly, the car will not idle right if this switch is fouled. It actually might not even start. It shares its connection to the harness with the wide-open throttle (WOT) switch, and the plug is on the back of the throttle body. 
The fuel injector harness is in a pretty crappy place, between the head and intake manifold, where there certainly is significant heat. The insulation gets very brittle over time and there is the potential for electrical shorts. Check it.
Look for corrosion at grounding points. Particularly the ground on the coolant flange on the (transmission) side of the cylinder head.

Third, determine under what conditions idle is poor.
>Is it bad when the car is cold but better when the car warms up? 
>Or is it good when the car is cold and worsens when the car gets warmed up? 
>Or is it just crappy all the time?

>Idle Is Bad When The Car Is Cold: 
If you disconnect the blue coolant temp sensor while the engine is running and it idles better, you probably need a new blue coolant temp sensor.
If that doesn't do it, then check the O2 sensor, check your timing and reset your idle*
>Idle Is Bad When The Car Is Warm.
If you disconnect the o2 sensor before or while the engine is running, and the car idles better, you probably need a new o2 sensor.
If that doesn't do it, then check the blue cts, check your timing and reset your idle.* If the idle is set too low, then the ISV will attempt to compensate for it once the car is out of cold-start mode, and the idle will be bonkers.
>Idle Just Sucks All The Time. Either the timing is way, way off, or you didn't set the idle right (too low).*
*Remember, the idle won't set correctly using the idle screw if you don't have the ISV unplugged. 
And remember the method for setting the timing: The car must be warm, with the blue CTS unplugged, and the motor must be at ~2500 rpm. Set it for 6-8 degrees BTDC.
If idle is still bad, ask the experts in the G60 tech forum and read through the G60 tech forum FAQ if you haven't already and be sure to tell them you've done the basics. 


_Modified by cbgthor at 5:56 PM 3-17-2006_


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## JustMike (Jun 10, 2002)

*Re: G60 Digifunk Monkey Spunk FAQ FYI (JBETZ)*

http://www.nwlink.com/~vdb/vw/Engine/G60_Idle 
Below is the procedure for setting specs on G-60 models. As you can see this is not for the DIY and you will most likely have to have a shop do it. So it's for your information and maybe Jan can add it to the FAQ's.
Corrado Basic Engine, Checks / Adjustments
Basic Engine Settings
--------------------------------
1) Check and adjust the basic engine settings in the following order:
a) Ignition timing
b) Idle speed / CO content
2) Checking and adjusting conditions:
a) Engine oil temperature must be at least 80 degrees C (176 degrees F)
and
radiatior fan must have operated at least once
b) All electrical consumers switched OFF (radiator fan must not be
running during checking or adjusting).
c) Idle switch functioning properly
d) Idle stabilization OK
e) With ignition OFF, connect VW 1367 engine tester
f) Install the voltage splitter test adaptor VAG 1473 in between the
ignition coil and
the VAG 1367 using the VAG 1594 adapter kit
g) Connect SUN 105 CO tester (or EPA approved equivalent) to CO tap
using Special Tool 6006-0019 or equivalent (high
temperature silicon connecting hose)

(NOTE: Non-approved hose may dramatically alter CO readings.)
Ignition timing
--------------------
1) Start the engine and let idle
2) Remove the blue connector at the coolant temperature sensor.
The second sensor (black connector) is used for the coolant temperature
gauge.
3) Check ignition timing at 2000 to 2500 RPM.
Checking: 4 degrees to 8 degrees BTDC.
4) If adjustment is necessary, destroy tamper proof cap that covers the head
of the distributor base clamp bolt.
5) Loosen distributor and rotate until specification is correct. Adjusting: 6
degrees 
1 degree BTCD.
6) Reconnect blue connector at the coolant temperature sensor.
7) Raise the engine speed three time then let the engine return to idle.
8) Continue to idle speed setting.
(NOTE: It is not necessary to install a new tamper proof cap on the
distributor base clamp bolt.)
Idle Speed / CO Content
---------------------------------
1) Pull crankcase breather hose off pressure regulating valve and turn it so
that only
fresh air will be drawn in.
2) Let engine run at idle.
3) After approximately one minute disconnect the blue connector at the
coolant temperature sender.
4) Raise the engine speed four times to over 3000 RPMs and then let the
engine return
to idle (This cancels the hot start idle increase function).
5) Adjust if necessary.
6) Remove tamper resistant plug over the CO screw, rotate both adjustment
screws
alternately.
--- the idle speed is 800 30 RPMs
--- and the CO is around 1.2 %
7) Reconnect the blue temperature sensor harness plug.
8) Raise the engine four more times to over 3000 RPMs and then let the engine
return to idle.
9) Check to make sure that the CO did not go out of specs.
--- If the CO is out of specs, check the oxygen sensor system.
10) With the settings correct shut off the engine and reconnect the crankcase
breather
hose.
11) Install a new tamper resistant plug over the CO adjustment screw.


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## Strictly Gravy (Mar 15, 2003)

*Re: G60 Digifunk Monkey Spunk FAQ FYI (JBETZ)*

bump


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## ButchHusky (Feb 23, 2000)

*Re: G60 Digifunk Monkey Spunk FAQ FYI (LooseNut)*


_Quote, originally posted by *LooseNut* »_
4. Clean up all ECU grounds. Relocate that one ground to the TB.

I know where the ground is on the raintray, where are any other ECU grounds?
Brian


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## OdorCide (Aug 4, 2000)

*Re: G60 Digifunk Monkey Spunk FAQ FYI (ButchHusky)*

There is a ECU ground on the coolant flange on the side of the head, also one near the battery.


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## mrkrad (Nov 9, 2000)

*Re: G60 Digifunk Monkey Spunk FAQ FYI (OdorCide)*

Remember to watch out for digifant lag, this is commonly confused by bad grounds when it is a factory programmed delay of time to enrichment which is fine at low boost levels but is VERY dangerous at high boost levels or with devices such as lysholm or turbo which have VERY rapid onset of boost.
You can detect this with wideband or narrow band when you mash the gas (actual digilogger data direct from ecu link):








or watch this video. If you have the LAG, you will see a lean period while the boost kicks it:
http://home.test-afl.tulix.com...g.WMV
Do not confuse this issue. It was purposefully done by VW programmers on the ecu.


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## JBETZ (Feb 17, 2000)

*Re: G60 Digifunk Monkey Spunk FAQ FYI (mrkrad)*

bump for Chuck


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## ghost_rider_x (Jun 25, 2003)

does anybody have a list of all the grounds wires. where they start and where they go.


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## JBETZ (Feb 17, 2000)

Bump for the runs like: poop, have a hesitation, flat spot, runs like shat guys.


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## swingwing205 (Jun 13, 2001)

*Re: (JBETZ)*

Also, hopefully this one hans't been covered yet....
If your G60 runs fine one moment, then misses like crazy, check the condition of the hall switch on the distributor, lots of times it's cracked at the plug in point. One of the most common (at least it seems like it to me) probs with older G60's, yet one of the easiest to find if you have an idea that this can happen.
The engine bay of a G60 gets REALLY hot and over time weakens stuff. This seems especially true of this part in particular.


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## LooseNut (Nov 27, 2001)

*Re: (JBETZ)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JBETZ* »_Bump for the runs like: poop, have a hesitation, flat spot, runs like shat guys.

Always look at the basics first! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

so samhow do we fix this misterious digilag?
SNS chips? 



_Modified by potatonet at 6:04 AM 8-25-2007_


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## JBETZ (Feb 17, 2000)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_so samhow do we fix this misterious digilag?_Modified by potatonet at 6:04 AM 8-25-2007_


Bump for spring tuning time.
proper maintenance and tuning.our chips do not lag on cars that are running correctly.
G60's need everything to be just right or they run funky.
we have ran near mid 11's in the quarter mile on our software and we didn't do it with digilag.


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## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

i understand the concept of the oxygen sensor and the throttle position switches (idle and WOT). i have my a/f gauge working and everything is normal yet at WOT it still sweeps back and forth, im assuming that my car is still running in open loop then, when it should be closed running off of the chip's settings for WOT. is it bad to continue this way? the most i've done so far is make sure my throttle body does go to wot with the pedal at the stop and that the WOT switch actually "clicks". isnt the WOT switch the ONLY thing that tells the ecu to go into closed loop?


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## mrkrad (Nov 9, 2000)

*Re: (nextproject)*

yeah that would be bad. I just reprogram the chip to stop that as soon as boost is present; in the event the wot switch fails to function (maybe your case?) it doesn't really matter since the ecu software can fall back on the map sensor which makes more sense to me.
Poor software design choice on VW imo. So i changed the design.


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## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

so i need to verify via multimeter that the ecu is getting the WOT switch signal? and if it is i assume theres something wrong with the ecu?
are you saying it IS bad for me to be going to WOT with my ecu in this state? i havent detected any bad noises, but then again the 'charger's kinda loud without the silencer and boost return, and my exhaust isnt exactly "quiet".


_Modified by nextproject at 5:27 PM 3-28-2008_


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## mrkrad (Nov 9, 2000)

*Re: (nextproject)*

it can be as simple as the gas pedal cable being stretched out (common, should be replaced every 10 years imo) and not making full contact all the time. get a buddy to mash the gas and multimeter the wot/idle switches and make sure they are consistenly working (sometimes they like to stick shut/open) sometimes they don't make contact reliably which is easy to adjust.
easy peasy to test mate
i don't bank my motor on a wot switch; is what i'm saying. i think fuel enrichment should be instant when you get on boost as 12.5:1 air fuel ratio is ideal at peak torque and maybe a little richer after peak whp.


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## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

is this program you're speaking of (adding fuel once it goes into boost instead of relying on WOT switch signal) already available on your site? or is this something you're working on? i'd love to get a stage 3 chip made with that program included. so you're saying that VW only adds fuel when it senses WOT switch? that IS kinda silly.
also, i read in another post you're not doin so well, good luck with that man, i hope it all works out for you, sorry to hear about all that.
sorry if posting this on this thread is inappropriate.


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## g60racer (Nov 18, 2000)

*Re: (nextproject)*

There's actually a pretty good post in the Corrado section FAQ on G60 driveability problems, very comprehensive.


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## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

i dont really have a driveability problem tho, i've never been happier with the way my 'rado runs. just something i've noticed regarding how my a/f gauge isnt going full rich at WOT. if i didnt have an a/f gauge i wouldnt even know its doing this.


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## kda33 (Jan 27, 2005)

watch topic way too much info to read in one sitting


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## herby53-akaherby53 (Dec 24, 2003)

*Re: G60 Digifunk Monkey Spunk FAQ FYI (JBETZ)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JBETZ* »_Here are some belt sizes, add more if you know the sizes.
Thanks
Serp Belt	
W A/C Stock Conti 6PK 1755
68mm Conti 6PK 1743
63mm Flennor 6PK 1738
58mm Conti 6PK 1733 (works with 53mm SC & Tensioner cap)
53mm Conti 6PK 1715
50mm Conti 6PK 1715
N A/C Stock Gates K060650
68mm Conti 6PK 1642
58mm Conti 6PK 1623 (also use with 50-53 mm & tensioner cap)
57mm Gates K060790 / 6PK2005
53mm Gates K060623
50mm Gates K060623
16V kit
50-53 mm No AC	Conti 6PK1980
68 mm No AC Gates K060785
65 mm With AC	88-1/16” (2235mm) nominal 6PK2236
V-Belt	Stock	Conti	AVX 10+735
No A/C Conti	AVX 10+655

No Charger
W/AC 6PK1505 Goodyear #4060592
No AC 6PK1255 Dayco #5060495 Would Work Better With Shorter Belt
_Modified by JBETZ at 1:27 PM 2-11-2006_


thank you sir , just found what i was looking for . great info http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

yeah the switch works because the idle fluctuates when you depress the WOT switch while its idling. i guess it must be the cable not making good contact 100 percent of the time, may just get a new cable and adjust the switch, thanks guys.


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## JBETZ (Feb 17, 2000)

*Re: (nextproject)*

bump


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## JBETZ (Feb 17, 2000)

So looseNut posted a really nice list on page one.
I don't think that this has been mentioned as a little list.
Before you start pulling your hair out trying to get one of these cars running correctly be sure to cover your basics.
New spark plugs Bosch W6DP0 only, don't even ask
New Bosch cap and rotor
New plug wires
New fuel filter
Replace all vacuum lines with oem cloth material in the correct size, 1M to ecu. Use mini clamps or zip ties on all connections.
Check and tighten all of the IC boost tubes and connections.
I always like to replace the #30 power control relay under the dash for the ecu. This part is not supposed to go bad, I've seen them cause intermittent issues. 
Now lets go back to LooseNuts list, ok here it is









I think a FAQ should be precluded with a section titled 
"So you just bought a G60 Corrado, this is what you do first."
1. Change/test battery
2. Change/test alternator or voltage regulator
3. Replace battery wires with thick ones. Clean up connections.
4. Clean up all ECU grounds. Relocate that one ground to the TB.
5. Replace all vacuum hoses. ECU hose is of a critical 1 meter length.
6. Replace blue coolant temp sensor. (it's cheap) If gauge is not working, replace black sensor too.
7. Test throttle switches with a multimeter.
8. Test resistance of the injectors and harness. 
9. Return ignition time to STOCK specs for at least 6 months. The character of the G60 changes everyday and you need to be familiar with it before you decide to melt a piston (happens to the best of us.)
Besides, it will only be running for 3 months during this time.
10. Do not even look at performance parts for 8 months.
11. Invest in a good air filter!
12. Tighten all IC hose connections.
13. Install an air fuel gauge Learn the difference between open and closed loop.
14. Clean TB and ISV with carb cleaner (or whatever works for you)
15. Replace the O-ring on the idle adjustment screw. Don't be afraid to remove the screw and get a good look at it.
16. Fix all broken wires from the O2 sensor all the way past the first connection/harness. Ensure the O2 sensor ground wire is clean and strong.

Something like that and then more expensive items can be tracked down in the FAQ. Like if a/f gauge isn't cycling - replace O2 sensor.
Feel free to add more to the list.


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## builtforsin (Nov 24, 2007)

*Re: (JBETZ)*

*watch thread*

My cars been running too good... Something is about to happen I'm sure


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## JBETZ (Feb 17, 2000)

*Re: (builtforsin)*

bump.... jk
haha its a sticky now


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## Whitsend (Jun 10, 2004)

*Re: (JBETZ)*

So...What is the difference between open and closed loop?


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## JBETZ (Feb 17, 2000)

_Modified by JBETZ at 7:59 PM 10-26-2009_


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## still_a_G (Jun 23, 2008)

*Re: (JBETZ)*

It's been a while since I thought about this list of basics. I've recently converted to Megasquirt and have had a lot of time to review the Bentley schematics. If it still doesn't run right after you've checked the basics and did the tune-up, replace the following:
Replace with O2 sensor if you do not know the history of the car. A previous owner may have had a bad coolant sensor that caused the engine to run rich and destroy the sensor.
To the same effect, inspect the cat. converter for cracks or chunks while you are down there. This can fail pretty quick depending on the severity of the fueling condition. 
Replace the injector harness. At 98K, mine had some bad cracks. This can cause issues if the engine gets wet. The harness can short and not open injectors when you need the fuel the most. A resistance check will not immediately point this out.
A new knock sensor would also be a good investment. Make sure it is torqued properly. Also, keep the wiring away from the alternator and the power wire that feeds the battery. Try to route it against insulating items.
Also, if you know that the timing belt has been replaced, be concerned about the crank sprocket key. The bolt can loosen and strip the key way. This is what you check if you can't seem to get the timing right. 
Some people have had their Hall sensor on the distributor fail. I don't recommend immediately replacing it. Have a professional help you trouble-shoot this item. Or if you know an engineer with a USB Oscilloscope, bribe him with beer for his assistance.
If you have hard starts due to a draining battery. Find what item is grounding by using your multimeter set to Ohms. Put one lead on battery positive (+) and the other lead on chassis ground. Pull each fuse until you have more than 300K ohms resistance. Recharge the battery and it should start up good. Find out why that accessory was grounding before re-installing the fuse.
And if it still doesn't run right, consider the possibility of a bent ECU pin. If the chip has ever been replaced, the placement of the ECU makes it hard to get the harness connected correctly.
It's really a pretty basic engine setup. There's not much else to go wrong. (famous last words)


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## still_a_G (Jun 23, 2008)

*Re: (still_a_G)*

In my above post, I mention the difficulty in testing your distributor/Hall sensor. When in reality, it's not that hard to do if all you need to know is the product of the device. Which is, your spark. (Keep in mind you must know that your coil and ECU are in good working condition and that the wiring is correct).
This is where an Iginition Spark Tester tool comes in hand.








To use this, remove all plugs and remove the fuel pump fuse. Put the tool on plug wire #1, ground the tool and test away. You should get about 25,000 volts during cranking. 
You can also verify the appropriate timing by using a timing light. The easiest way to get a good idea of the rough timing during cranking is to point the light at the CRANK PULLEY. Paint a white mark on the TDC mark, obviously. It should spark about 10 degrees before the TDC mark on the pulley reaches the diameter of the intermediate shaft pulley (which is about a half an inch away).


_Modified by still_a_G at 10:22 AM 6-18-2009_


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## MkG60 (Oct 19, 2009)

I wanna make my G60 faster, i've heard of pulleys, headers, chips, but idk whats best for my babe or where to find it







, any suggestions???
Thanks any tips will be appriciate it... 


_Modified by MkG60 at 9:06 AM 10-25-2009_


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## minicoretti (Oct 2, 2008)

*Re: G60 Digifunk Monkey Spunk FAQ FYI (dubbernutter)*

Hey there would you know if a corrado G60 ECU will work with G60 passat syncro wireing harness? My ECU fried in my MK1 swap.
Thanks.


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## ROCKY112381 (Apr 21, 2009)

*Re: (nextproject)*

i had same problem in my corrado and Yes it can be many things but i assure you if you are pushing more than ten lbs of boost then you need a Cam fuel pressure reg and chip that match each other.i have 16-17 psi of boost and installed bbm stage 4 kit and it made a unbeleivable differance.now it revs right up into the red zone with no hesitation but I also changed o2 sensor and that doubled my power.but if you only have 13-14 psi you can go stage 3.other than that,get back to me on what mods,psi and other things and I promise I can help but need specifics


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## javbb18 (Apr 12, 2010)

*Re: G60 Digifunk Monkey Spunk FAQ FYI (REPOMAN)*

i am thinking about putting a g60 in my mkII gti what would i need to do it, motor mounts? wiring? tranny? fuel lines?


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## THECISAG60 (May 14, 2010)




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## Subzeroswe (Jan 24, 2008)

I have the same question as above.
My CO i s set at 500ohm's, but since it measures air temp, setting it to 500 regardless of the outside temp doesn't make any sense at all..

Anyone know at what air temp the co should be set at 500?


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## vwuberalles2003 (Dec 1, 2004)

*difference between open loop and closed loop*

open loop means the car is running on a pre programmed fuel and ignition map that runs rich to encourage start up emissions, temperature heat soak in the coolant and thusly switch, based on various inputs from the o2 sensor, hall sender, co pot, etc, from open loop to closed loop control where the ecu uses the inputs from the sensors to determine the correct fuel air ignition maps to run; cold start is like automatically programmed values(open loop) which change when the cts generates the correct signal to the ecu; which triggers (closed loop) operation, where the maps used by the ecu are dictated by the various sensor inputs. Understand?:beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:


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## vwuberalles2003 (Dec 1, 2004)

*boost return question*

i had a minor question regarding the modification to the boost return system; if one were to on a slightly modified car (68mm, stg 3 chip, exhaust and intake mods) to replace the piping with a catch tank that incorporated the pcv heater element, and replace the plastic tubing with steel braided lines and attach this to the charger at the return port with a block off, would the oil blow by from the charger amount to much? would, in your experience, this mod be feasible? since the flow is not impeded in theory at least, wouldnt the operation allow oil vapor/excess boost to be returned?: ive seen mention of concern for the pcv system; id like a in depth reply, since ive been assembling parts for a modified return tract and plan on setting up.:thumbup::thumbup: Thanks! VIVA BAHN BRENNER!


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## mk2gtig60 (Jul 15, 2010)

does anyone know step by step how to richen or lean the fuel mixture using the co content sensor or maf? i just heard about this.. and my car is slightly lean and id like to richen it up a lil bit.


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## vwuberalles2003 (Dec 1, 2004)

*i realize this has been gone over before but no answer from the g6o gods????*

so.....anyone got any opinions on this???


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## vwuberalles2003 (Dec 1, 2004)

*oops!*

Wow after researching this project, Mr.Betz, i realize why you might not have answered it-corrado owners are quite "passionate"-and the conflicting answers i have received so far have only whittled down my questions regarding the actual utility of replacing the boost return tube. 
I have started on a catch can with an fittings and a stainless hose on one side (to the charger block off with a nipple plumbed in), a bung on the top (for the pcv heater element) and a 2 inch diameter bung facing the direction of the firewall, which connects using a 2" diameter hose and fitting to the boost return. The question I have is one of simple design: should i put some type of baffle inside of this can? would a baffle be helpful in this instance? I realize, Mr.Betz, that youre a busy guy, so any help is duly appreciated.:thumbup::thumbup: Viva Bahn Brenner! Thank you!:biggrinsanta::snowcool:


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## germanengineering g60 (Aug 20, 2007)

*I need to know what type of spark plug wires to use on the corrado 8V 8/84 on or 8V to 7/84*

I am purchasing SHOCK THERAPY PLUG WIRES from autotech and they have 2 types I need to know what type of spark plug wires to use on the corrado 8V 8/84 on or 8V to 7/84


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## g60301 (Aug 5, 2011)

ghost_rider_x said:


> does anybody have a list of all the grounds wires. where they start and where they go.


.


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## erickramirez (Aug 2, 2008)

came across this website with a bunch of good info, everyone new to g60s or thinking of buying one should read. im not sure who the credit goes to fro writing this up but they did a great job!

http://corradog60.tripod.com/index.html


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## eavalos15 (Oct 9, 2011)

do you guys know from where i get the vacuum hose for the ecu? and i have a small problem.... Car was running fine then out ouf the blue it turn off while in the highway turn it on while i had speed and kept working correctly. Then park turn it off and when i got back wouldn't start. After few tries it start but REVs where bouncing and if i took my foot from accelerator it will turn off. l try again but some smog came thru my air vent. The previous ower did not know what he was doing and i can see he tried to mess with some cables but still car was working fine when this happen.... :banghead:
help anyone?


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## JBETZ (Feb 17, 2000)

eavalos15 said:


> do you guys know from where i get the vacuum hose for the ecu? and i have a small problem.... Car was running fine then out ouf the blue it turn off while in the highway turn it on while i had speed and kept working correctly. Then park turn it off and when i got back wouldn't start. After few tries it start but REVs where bouncing and if i took my foot from accelerator it will turn off. l try again but some smog came thru my air vent. The previous ower did not know what he was doing and i can see he tried to mess with some cables but still car was working fine when this happen.... :banghead:
> help anyone?


you can get the cloth hose material in the correct size from the VW dealer... we can also get it for you. we should get this stuff on our site. not sure what your other issue is there.


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## 90slow_rado (Dec 2, 2008)

Hey my car completely leans out when it reaches running temperature. Bad copot maybe?


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## JBETZ (Feb 17, 2000)

90slow_rado said:


> Hey my car completely leans out when it reaches running temperature. Bad copot maybe?


afr is dependent on hp load.....no load and it should be very lean. running down freeway at cruise speed should be lean. as you make boost and power the fueling should go up.


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## 90slow_rado (Dec 2, 2008)

JBETZ said:


> afr is dependent on hp load.....no load and it should be very lean. running down freeway at cruise speed should be lean. as you make boost and power the fueling should go up.


Actually leans out under load ha, i'm stumped. Leans out quite a bit too, almost to where i can't move leaving a red light etc.


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## JBETZ (Feb 17, 2000)

that's no good, how do you know you are lean and not something else? did you do everything in this thread?


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## big_hot_tamale (Dec 20, 2003)

*ECU vacuum hose*

Not sure if I missed it..but concerning the ecu vacuum hose. Quick searches have resulted in an affirmative "must be exactly 1m" in length. 

The reasons given are wavelength frequency of the pressure/vacuum pulses, to pressure exerted, to distance/time lag to map properly...take your pick I guess. 

Considering that the stock G60 hose connects to the t-body directly after the venturis (so in essence it is connected to the intake manifold), must it be 1m from that point, or 1m from anywhere on the intake manifold? 

reason is I'm trying to run the G60 engine mgmt on my 16v turbo (for now, later I'll go MS). Current setup has the ecu's vacuum hose in silicon 3.5mm ID. The length is 1.1m and it's currently hooked up to the far side (opposite side of the t-body) on a 'log' intake manifold. So, technically it's much farther away from the t-body..but shouldn't the vacuum reading be the same throughout the entire intake manifold? 

What is the correlation between hose length and performance? Has anyone conducted any empirical tests (dyno) to show the effect of using various lengths of ecu vacuum hose? If not, how can anyone say that it has to be 1m exactly?


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## KirinC (Jan 11, 2010)

big_hot_tamale said:


> Has anyone conducted any empirical tests (dyno) to show the effect of using various lengths of ecu vacuum hose? If not, how can anyone say that it has to be 1m exactly?


Let me tell ya, never done anything with a dyno but I've tinkered around quite a bit due to curiosity with these things.. I was always concerned about it not being "exactly 1m" because of the plastic connectors you use to put them on the hose nipple; thinking they would throw it off. 

In addition to that I was always concerned about the width of the hose itself. 

Been an inch or so off one time, couldn't notice a difference. Changed the width, still no difference. Maybe I'm crazy but as long as its within a half inch range- maybe more- my g60 ran fine. :thumbup:


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## etta gli (Sep 5, 2011)

Alright... we've been picking away at this for two days so I figured I'd post up asking. Seeing as G60 info is few and far in between, and very inconsistent.... hopefully this will help someone else out some day.

I have a 92 golf with a G60 in it, it was running a 68mm pulley and was otherwise stock. Brand new O2, and everything else seemed to work well. Car worked great. Put a BBM stage 2 on it and took it for a drive. Worked even better, blew the head gasket in under 5km, so bad that it wouldn't start. Had to plane the head 8 thou, put in new lifters, and the engine appeared to be otherwise fine (valves tested, newish pistons). 

So as of now I have
-bbm stage 2 with a 68mm pulley and stock cam
-header into 2.25" with a new O2
-New boost piping 
-All new seals, a lot of new bolts, everything tightened to spec
-New air filter
-Engine is at 8.15:1 CR
-91 octane (nothing higher available)
-cam timing is off a fraction of a tooth from planing. 
-everything else is timed up well

The car simply won't run. It'll idle but it's all over the place, misses, and struggles to recover if you rev it. It'll drive okay through the gears and misses less as RPM increases, but it's completely messed at any level of throttle. We're assuming a problem with the TPS (which didn't exist prior), as the wiring is questionable, but that would only affect idle and WOT?

Does anyone have info on the TPS, which pin is which, which wire goes where. There's signal, ground, and 5V. Stock wiring, manual car. 


next in line is pulling wires and checking compression.


10psi in cylinder 4, ~120 in cylinder 3 guess I found the problem :banghead:


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## veedubbermike (Jun 10, 2012)

*lol!*



JBETZ said:


> That is one good list of basics!
> Now I can cut and paste this to the 50 people per week that call us and email us when there cars are running funky.
> Thanks


has anyone ever used a nuespeed supercharger with out a/c? id be a very happy camper to figure thisout before spending all day and a ton of trips to get different size serp belts well maybe atleast get closer and only have to pick between 3 sizes...? anyone have an idea? :banghead:


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## veedubbermike (Jun 10, 2012)

*oh*



veedubbermike said:


> has anyone ever used a nuespeed supercharger with out a/c? id be a very happy camper to figure thisout before spending all day and a ton of trips to get different size serp belts well maybe atleast get closer and only have to pick between 3 sizes...? anyone have an idea? :banghead:


its on a aba 2.0 motor


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## JBETZ (Feb 17, 2000)

veedubbermike said:


> its on a aba 2.0 motor


 check out and post in the 2.0l forum....here  
http://forums.vwvortex.com/forumdisplay.php?28-2.0-Liter-Engine-Forum


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## veedubbermike (Jun 10, 2012)

*yes*



JBETZ said:


> check out and post in the 2.0l forum....here
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/forumdisplay.php?28-2.0-Liter-Engine-Forum


 i got it in my car now and it sounds like angels singing to me when im full throttle. 
i hadto spank some ppeps first day driving to and from work... :laugh:


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## veedubbermike (Jun 10, 2012)

*ok*

thanks doggie!:beer:


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