# Homelink wiring diagram ?? anyone?



## rsizemore (Nov 7, 2006)

OK, so here is one for all of you. I know this is going to sound like a broken record. I ordered the Homelink equipped visor for the '06 A3 to go on my '07 A3. The 06 visor has two wires...very easy. The new 07 visor has 6 wires none of which respond to a simple continuity check. Can someone help me out with a wiring diagram?
Black: Ground
Black:
Green:
White:
Blue:
Gray:


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## aeitingon (Mar 21, 2005)

I don't think that it will be as simple as just swapping the visors. Your old non-homelink visor only had 2 wires because all it had was a light for the vanity mirror.
The homelink is going to be much more complicated. Unlike other homelink systems that stash the whole deal in the visor (e.g., Ford and Toyota), Audi puts the transmitter under the front bumper somewhere (by the driver's side headlight). You would need to get the hidden transmitter part also and figure out how to get it all connected. If am right (I may not be), all you have in the homelink visor is some illuminated buttons.
Things that need to be wired:
a. vanity mirror light
b, illumination for homelink buttons
c. data for homelink buttons to talk to the transmitter
If each of a, b and c above are 2 wires, that would be 6 total. Just guessing here.
I may be wrong about some or all of this - but I think that if you look at the owners manual it will show you that the homelink transmitter is actually located near the front bumper.
Good luck.


_Modified by aeitingon at 5:34 PM 11-8-2006_


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## rsizemore (Nov 7, 2006)

*Re: (aeitingon)*

Yup. I have no doubt that you are likely correct on all points. (Although I wass thinking one wire for each button, one 12V, one common ground, and led power, but I dunno) I just want to identify 12V power so I can hook up the vanity light and at least one wire that works with the three buttons without burning the whole thing up. That way I can use the visor button as a remote switch to bypass the button on my regular garage door opener which I will hide under the dash.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

*Re: Homelink wiring diagram ?? anyone? (rsizemore)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rsizemore* »_The new 07 visor has 6 wires none of which respond to a simple continuity check.

Do you mean just a continuity check without pushing buttons or a continuity check with pushing buttons? If you're checking with pushing the buttons, then something can't be right. At a minimum, you should get some resistance for the illumination wires.
As far as wiring in homelink, the stock components would be difficult to install and expensive. You might be better off buying an aftermarket unit like the person that put the three buttons in the dash to the lower right of the steering wheel. However, if you can figure out the wires, you can stash the transmitter in the dash and wire up the visor buttons to the transmitter buttons.


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## aeitingon (Mar 21, 2005)

Ahhh... I like your idea for wiring a regular opener to the homelink buttons, but you may need to dig a little deeper - everything in this damn car is CAN (computer network) controlled. Gone are the days of buttons that switch 12V - these are all "logic" buttons that send signals to the ship's computer. In other words, it is possible that the three buttons are live off of the same CAN controller...


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## TD22057 (Jun 20, 2006)

*Re: Homelink wiring diagram ?? anyone? (rsizemore)*

Well I took a look at the Bentley wiring diagram for the Homelink and I can't make heads or tails of it. The visor is definitely just the buttons and you don't want to know what the actual transmitter costs (~$450 when I checked). If they're simple switches the continuity check should work. I would guess a shared power and three outputs (4 wires) plus a power and output for the mirror switch (but then that doesn't leave anything for the LED so maybe that doesn't work out). I just soldered my switch leads across the ones on a homelink module from ebay ($35) and that worked great. 
Here's the wiring diagram for you to decode:


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## aeitingon (Mar 21, 2005)

It looks to me like there is power and ground going to the buttons in the visor. Then, there is one (1) control wire going from the buttons to the mother ship computer. We wonder why they have a hard time fixing these cars - some of this stuff is needlessly complex.


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## rsizemore (Nov 7, 2006)

*Re: (aeitingon)*


_Quote, originally posted by *aeitingon* »_It looks to me like there is power and ground going to the buttons in the visor. Then, there is one (1) control wire going from the buttons to the mother ship computer. We wonder why they have a hard time fixing these cars - some of this stuff is needlessly complex.

Uh, nope. I completely disagree. EVERYTHING in this car is needlessly complex. 
Alright, so, the continuity problem was operator error. I tried again with less beer and it worked as I suspected it would from the start. 
The visor has a rediculously complicated control unit behind the buttons and the wiring loom in the replacement visor is not color coded to the wiring diagram.
The makeup light switch is a 12V and a ground marked #4 and #6 on my connector. (both Black) These wires I will work into the plastic connector from the original visor so that I have a nice factory connection for this. Then I am just soldering to the little push buttons in the homelink visor and using them to activate the circuitry in my Craftsman garage door opener (Which is so beautiful that i feel I need to hide it.) which I will velcro to the metal in the dash fuse box area. I will be doing all of this later today.


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## aeitingon (Mar 21, 2005)

Your plan is pure genius. I admire your enginuity. I did the exact same thing with a simple add on momentary button in my first car (back in the day).
Have you thought about the illumination for the homelink buttons? If it is easy to do, I could check some of the wires on my homelink visor for you. Good luck!


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## rsizemore (Nov 7, 2006)

*Re: (aeitingon)*

I really apreciate the offer, but don't tear up your car for this. Mine is all apart right now. I am going to test a bit for LED function, but It isnt super important for me.


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## rsizemore (Nov 7, 2006)

*Re: (rsizemore)*

OK. The LED deal is a bust. It seems the garage door opener control unit tells the LED's when to light. There is a way to have them lit all the time or simply light (all) when you actuate a button, but I'm not doing it.
The wiring went smoothly. Pic's will follow. It all goes together nicely. One caveat is that I tried to use junky connectors at both ends of my long run of wire for maintenance purposes and they provide enough resistance in the circuit that the opener wont work. My resolution for this is to go and get good butt connectors and crimp. If they don't work I'll simply solder the wire and call it a day. 
Pic's will follow soon if anyone is interested. It took me one hour of actual work because I was not in any kind of a hurry. The cost was $380 ish.


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## rsizemore (Nov 7, 2006)

*Re: (rsizemore)*

If anyone cares... The Homelink circuit board provides a ton of resistance as it tries to perform it's designed functions when you push the buttons. I was forced to remove the switch, drill the closest circuits, coat the board with a thin coat of epoxy, coat the switch bottom with a thin coat of epoxy. Let dry. Solder the new leads to the switch. Then glue the switch back in place. Viola







! Anywho, If I were doing it again I would just throw the circuit board away and install three switches inside the casing. I believe these would work: JB15AP : http://nkkswitches.com/pdf/JBnonilluminated.pdf 
I say I would do that because it maintains the stock look of the homelink deal, but the other gentleman that installed the switches in his dash was the smarter of the two of us.


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## TD22057 (Jun 20, 2006)

*Re: (rsizemore)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rsizemore* »_
I say I would do that because it maintains the stock look of the homelink deal, but the other gentleman that installed the switches in his dash was the smarter of the two of us. 

Thanks - I haven't been called a gentleman in a long time







. FYI I'm slacking off work this afternoon so I should have a detailed write up of my homelink hack done today.


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