# The Official ABA All Motor Tuning Guide



## Minor_Threat (May 12, 2009)

So you want to build an ABA all motor?
this guide is based on the ABA motor that came in the Mk3's. 
Lets see what we got
ABA-Courtesy of Autotech
Displacement- 1984cc
Bore-82.5mm
Stroke-92.8mm
Cylinder Head- 8v Hydraulic 
Compression Ratio- 10.0:1 
[email protected] 
[email protected]
Managment- Bosch Montronic 
Where do I start?
Well, most people start off with an intake system of some sort. Many companies make intakes for our motors, most popular seem to be Neuspeed and ABD 
which can be purchased here 
Autotech
http://www.autotech.com/prod_e...m#mk3
Neuspeed
http://www.neuspeed.com/produc...=1055
ABD
http://abdracingwerks.com/Merc...0.930
Next you're going to want an exhaust system, I reccomend Techtonics Tuning's exhaust system, comes in 2 types, Aluminumized and Stainless steel. Aluminized is cheaper, but stainless will last you in the long run. The size of a 2.0L exhaust is 2.25in. 
It can be purchased here 
http://techtonicstuninginc.com...d=691
Depending on how crazy you're going and how legal you want your car, you might want to invest in a test pipe. A test pipe deletes the Cataylst or "the cat" A Cataylst converts exhaust gas into h20, CO, and CO2. Its an emissions must. 
The test pipe can be purchased here from 42 Draft Designs 
http://store.42draftdesigns.co....html
you can also go with a high flow cat, if you do not want to make your car pretty much Illegal.
http://techtonicstuninginc.com...=1000
Also Header's will improve the exhaust flow. Some people use headers and some people use an AEG exhaust manifold which is shaped like a header but bolts right onto your existing OEM downpipe. 
AEG manifolds can be purchased from junkards to Vortex Classifieds. 
Or if you want to buy a header I reccomend the OBX or the Raceland. Theres really no difference between them. Just price. 
http://www.racelandus.com/p-33....aspx
Now you've improved your Air Induction system and your Exhaust system by allowing more air to flow in and out of your motor. Now its time to think about software tuning.
Software is what manages your engine. The ABA motor uses a computer located in the rain tray on a MK3. Its a Bosch unit and can be opened by removing the 4 t15 torx screws in each corner of the ECU. Inside you will find a computer chip that you can remove with a small flat head screw driver. 
Now which one to choose?
Well it depends, are you running a bigger camshaft? (well get there later) or are you leaving the head alone for now. There has been much arguement on which is the best. But most people and myself feel that the Black Forest Industries Performance Enhancement Module is the best one. 
_Courtesy of Black Forest Industries_
The Stage 1 2.0l PEM offers noticeable performance gains over stock on the torquey 2.0l ABA engine. Carefully mapped adjustments to the fueling and timing allow the most to be extracted from VW's bulletproof powerplant. All tuning was dyno-tested to ensure real world increases in performance and power. This file is tuned on 93 octane, however the ECU will pull enough timing if you had to run 91 or even 89. 
Thanks to Tdogg74 for posting this in a past thread 








Stage 1 can be purchased here 
http://store.blackforestindust....html
Now after you've had your fun with these simple modifications, its time to open up the valve cover and replace the camshaft. The camshaft pushes on the lifters which open's and closes the exhaust and intake valves. They come in all different durrations. Durration is the time a valve is open for in a 360 degree rotation. There are soo many to choose from. Also the valve springs must be replaced in an OBDII motor when using a cam above 260 degrees. Why? ask Tdogg74. He made a thread showing comparisons between single valve springs and dual valve springs. Dual valve springs is what you use in a cam above 260 degrees. 
_Courtesy of AutoTech_
Race cams normally have rough idling characteristics due to the large overlap required for high rpm power. Street cams generally use a short duration and keep the lobe centers spread apart to prevent too much overlap. Too much overlap on fuel injected cars equipped with Lambda is especially bad. This can cause the airflow sensor to buffet up and down, forcing the system to overcompensate in either direction in an attempt to keep the CO in check.
Diagram #1 explains what happens to the fuel mixture when cam overlap causes both intake and exhaust valves to be open at the same time. Some of the mixture introduced into the combustion chamber is lost out of the tailpipe when the overlap is lengthy. The loss of partially burnt fuel increases hydrocarbon emissions without generating the low-end power desired for the street. However, a little overlap can help scavenge the mixture into the combusition chamber on normally aspirated vehicles. This is where the correct technology plays an important role in today's cam design.
The duration of a cam is measure in degrees of rotation on a circle when the valve is opened off its seat. An example would be a cam having 225 degrees of duration at .050". This is a portion of a 360 degree circle when the valve is lifted at least .050 inches off its seat. The longer the duration, the more chance of the intake and exhaust lobes both being open at the same time (overlap).
Another factor affecting overlap is the distance between adjacent lobe peaks. This is referred to as a lobe center. Simply stated, it is the measurement of distance in degrees of rotation from the peak of the intake lobe to the peak of the exhaust lobe. The closer the lobe centers are to one another, the more overlap. Fuel injected Volkswagen cams run best on 110 to 115 degree lobe centers. Racing cams are on the other end of the spectrum and run as close as 102 degree lobe centers, creating very rough idling characteristics.
The base circle of a cam is the diameter of the heel dimension. Base circles on cams may vary depending on certain design features in the cylinder head. Such things as valve stem length, valve seat height (how far down the seats are set in the combustion chamber), grind on the valves and seats, thickness of the lifter/cam follower, location of the bore in the cam towers, and the basic dimensions of the cylinder head casting are all factors. The base circle diameter of a factory solid lifter cam is between 1.496 and 1.500 inches. On the hydraulic lifter cam the base circle is between 1.331 and 1.336 inches. The top of the hydraulic lifter is approximately .0825 inches closer to the cam centerline than the solid lifter.
A smaller base circle can change the valve train dynamics during running. If a cam, such as a regrind, has a reduced base circle, the cam profile becomes more sharply pointed. This can lead to harsh opening and closing of the valve, and may even cause the lifter to skip off the cam surface during high rpm conditions. High wear or harmonic valve spring failure may result from these problems.
A quick and easy way to measure the lift of a short profile cam is to subtract the measurement of the base circle (B) from the measurement of the lobe height (A) using a set of vernier or dial calipers.
An example: (Line A) 1.919"
minus (Line B) 1.496"
Cam Lift =0.423"
Both intake and exhaust profiles should be checked because there may be a difference in the lift and duration of each respective lobe (referred to as an asymmetric cam). This "quick" method of measurement is not always accurate on racing cams. Long durations can cause inaccurate measurements at the narrowest point of lobe. In this case, the only accurate means of measurement is by using a dial indicator and a set of "V" blocks for rotating the cam, or a computerized cam measurement device.
Perhaps the most important thing to remember when searching for that "perfect camshaft" is this: Don't be mislead by the numbers! The lift and duration of a camshaft are not the only features that make a cam behave the way it does. Things like ramp profile, lobe center, and nose shape all affect a cam's behavior. It is virtually impossible to determine exactly how a cam will perform, or where it makes power, just by looking at the numbers. Ultimately, all of a camshaft's design aspects play a role in how it will perform.
all cams can be located here depending on what you want to use. 
http://techtonicstuninginc.com...84_92
http://www.autotech.com/prod_e...vcams
Valve springs can be purchased here 
http://techtonicstuninginc.com...d=123
you can also choose chromoly retainers, or Titainum
You'll want an adjustable cam cear with your new cam so that you can change the cam timing to increase horsepower and torque
http://techtonicstuninginc.com...4_602
Now we can talk about stage 2 chips. Techtonics makes a matching chip for some of their camshafts. If you're going with a bigger cam than 260 or so, You might want to think about a matching chip. BFI has one its stage 2, they have a range of durrations.
can be purchased here 
http://store.blackforestindust....html
http://techtonicstuninginc.com...2_254
Ok, now you have a pretty strong ABA. Theres not much more you can do for performance without taking apart the motor more, you can port the Throttle body and a few other things I forget. Now do you want to go further? 
Ok, you do. Now lets take apart the motor even more right down to the bare block. 
lets start with the bottom end. 
There are several options you can go. You can bore out the block for bigger pistons, you can use different pistons for different compression. Its all up to you. In a case of all motor, you'll want to go with higher compression. 

To raise compression, you can have the cylinder head milled, or the block decked, or run high compression pistons. If you're planning the deck the head I don't recomend milling off more than .050 of an inch off.
High Compression pistons 12.3:1
http://www.bildon.com/catalog/...av=62
those pistons allow you to to keep the stroke at 92.8mm
Also you can use forged rods if you're planning to be running high RPM's all the time 
http://www.intengineering.com/....html
Always use ARP hardware








http://techtonicstuninginc.com...d=457
OBD1 blocks used forged internals, you could also use that instead of all of that listed above. 
Also you can have an OBDI or TDI crankshaft lightened and balanced
or purchase a lightened and balanced one from USRT
http://www.usrallyteam.com/ind...=1_51
come in all different strokes
now you can always change the stroke of the motor, but I'm not too familar with changing the stroke other than its really expensive.
Ok lets talk cylinder heads.
The cylinder head holds the camshaft, lifters, valve springs and the vavles themselves. There are 8 ports on the ABA head 4 in the front which are bigger for the intake and 8 on the back which are smaller for the exhaust. 
Porting and polishing is a good way to go. 
USRT and SCCH do great work, also your local machine shop can do it as well. 
Installing bigger valves is another way to get more air in and out of the head. They come in all different sizes and can be purchased in kits here 
http://techtonicstuninginc.com...4_125
Using the ARP head studs is an eaiser way to remove the head without having the replace the head bolts each time you remove it. 
http://techtonicstuninginc.com...1_251
Undercut means that the bolt is skinnier making it eaiser to install the head. I called Summit Racing about that to find out what that meant. 
Now you have a solid ABA. 
You can change the pullies such as Crank, Alternator, waterpump, and tensioner to lightweight and balanced ones, they look really nice as well too. 
I reccomend these from Gruvenparts
http://gruvenparts.com/website...id=60
You can dress up the motor with a nice fuel rail from BBM 
http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_...l_Kit
note: The Fuel Pressure Regulator adapter does not come with the rail, it must be purchased seperately 
Also install performance engine mounts. BFI makes good ones and come in all different hardness
http://store.blackforestindustries.com/enpe.html
also WRD's are good 
http://wrdusa.com/mm5/merchant...ngine
Deleting the A/C will reduce the rotating mass and go nice with your new lightweight pullies. If you delete the powersteering you can eliminate the V belt.
kit can be purchased here
http://www.techtonicstuning.co...0.040
Enjoy and discuss if I left anything out http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## envy. (Jul 27, 2009)

the best money I ever spent was on my long runner intake manifold. coupled with the other basic mods (cam, exhaust, chip, etc) these puppies really open up the ABA pretty nicely. 
sounds like a monster on acceleration too!


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## 1BadTitan (Jan 14, 2010)

*Re: (envy.)*

Where'd you get the long runner?


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## 1lowGnster (Feb 18, 2010)

Has anyone heard of what the highest numbers you can push with the ABA motor are?


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## Minor_Threat (May 12, 2009)

*Re: (1lowGnster)*

if done right, can reach up to 145


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Great job on this thread Minor_threat!
Now if we can keep this and the one I wrote for MK4s at the top it will hopefully reduce the noob threads.

_Quote, originally posted by *Minor_Threat* »_if done right, can reach up to 145 


Streetable yes, there were some pretty high hp 8v back in the day (and possibly still now)
High compression, solid lifter big ass cam and some ITBs can make for a pretty quick high revving drag car.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Minor_Threat* »_if done right, can reach up to 145 


You can reach way more than 145. 
Im still in the middle of making a better tuning guide than this with useful, real-world info instead of cut-pasted info from other sites and thefted pics from _other_ people's Photobucket accounts.


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## ABA Scirocco (May 30, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (tdogg74)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tdogg74* »_
You can reach way more than 145. 


Agreed. It's not a streetable motor but we recently broke 200hp dyno testing our latest ABA racing engine.


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## 1BadTitan (Jan 14, 2010)

*Re: FV-QR (ABA Scirocco)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ABA Scirocco* »_
Agreed. It's not a streetable motor but we recently broke 200hp dyno testing our latest ABA racing engine.


GOt the specs on that? I'd like to get some better ideas than just I/H/E & cams.


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## ABA Scirocco (May 30, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (1BadTitan)*

Flat top pistons giving a 13.5:1 compression ratio, .480 lift solid lifter cam with 262° duration @.050" lift, single Weber DCOE45 sidedraft carb on a custom intake manifold, custom header plus all of the usual stuff necessary to make the motor survive life at 8500rpm.


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## 1BadTitan (Jan 14, 2010)

Is shaving the head to boost compression the same as swapping pistons? They give the same comp numbers, is there an advantage to one over the other?


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## TVR (Oct 1, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (ABA Scirocco)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ABA Scirocco* »_Flat top pistons giving a 13.5:1 compression ratio, .480 lift solid lifter cam with 262° duration @.050" lift, single Weber DCOE45 sidedraft carb on a custom intake manifold, custom header plus all of the usual stuff necessary to make the motor survive life at 8500rpm.

that is the ShT, where in ontario are you?


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## ABA Scirocco (May 30, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (TVR)*

Hamilton, we race the paved oval in Flamboro.


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## InTTruder (Mar 28, 2006)

Excellent post. 

I'm tracking this 2.sl0w ABA-









at HPDE or track days here in the SE. The need for sufficient power to make it more fun without transplanting a VR drives me to threads like this. Thanks for all the effort.


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## 1BadTitan (Jan 14, 2010)

I hate to resurrect this but I have a question. If I install a 268 TT cam, does that mean I should have the head milled as much due to lack of valve clearence?


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## Cyranoff (Jan 5, 2021)

About milling the ABA 2.0L 8v engine head ...
You talk about doing no more than 0,050 po.milling , Service manual from VW says don't go less than 5,220 po. height (engine head height) . Mine gives 5,246 po. ... As this ABA engine is an unknown source , it may be already been milled as I can see . Milling 0.050 po. more will go under VW directives ... or it's just a way to get safe...
If I get it machined with my 5,246 po. height, I can't go much than 0.0250 po., in deduction !
I'm I right ? any recommendations ?
I don't want to make much modifications on this engine , as all other parts are quit in nice shape for a 160k miles engine.


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