# Headgasket gone full rebuild...



## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

Replacing my head gasket has turned into a full on rebuild. I've decided to keep both the original head and block. No ABA for this build... Partially because I think it would be cool to build a hydro 1.8 with digi2 since I haven't really seen it done, and partially because I can't find an ABA locally that I'd trust to run. 

So far I've pulled the head off and removed the oil pan. 























































I've got a few questions though. I want to do a minor bottom end rebuild if possible. 

1. Can I remove the pistons, clean them, hot tank the block, replace the rod/main bearings, new seals, deglaze the cylinders, and put in new piston rings? Or do I need to have the cylinders machined as well to put in new piston rings? The walls look pretty healthy but the pistons have some major carbon buildup. 

2. I'd also like to know the best way to clean out the coolant jackets on the block. They are pretty nasty as far as I can tell minor rust/gasket material. Is there a way to blow them out via air or maybe use some CLR? 

I plan on having the head rebuilt with a 260* cam, and the TT hiflow valves and HD springs. Also looking to have some gasket matching done on the head and intake. 

I'll update as progress continues. 

I have a header waiting to go in as well... So ignore the toilet bowl.


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

So since last post I've pulled off nearly everything attached to the block minus the transmission. 

I deleted the AC since it's a convertible and it hasn't ever worked anyways. While tearing it out I noticed many of the connections were corroded and magic putty was evidence that the previous owner had done some DIY repairs on the AC system. 

If anyone can answer my previous questions, I have a few more. 

1. The coolant passages near the thermostat on the block look a little rusty? Is this something the machine shop can clean? It kinda worries me. 

2. Is it worth it to have the block refinished? or should I just look for an un-rusted ABA or something? 














































AC parts...


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

Found a rebuilt Digi II 1.8 short block with 30,000 miles for $100. Gonna go take a look and might end up buying it, cleaning it up a bit, and slapping it in rather than rebuilding my entire bottom end. Still going to replace the clutch and all the associated crap I encounter.


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## L33t A2 (Aug 5, 2003)

*FV-QR*

sounds good to me, if its truly 30k on it then use it, would be easier on the wallet


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

Looking to go with .5mm overbore pistons to 81.5mm. Can I use the stock head gasket?


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

Bump

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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

Got the head back from the machine shop yesterday. Went with M&B cylinder heads located in Portland, OR. Brian took me through the shop to look at all the different projects he had going on, really nice guy. 

Anyways, I had the head decked and cleaned before a full rebuild. Installed high flow 7mm valves, lightweight lifters, 160 cam, HD springs, chromoly upper retainers, guides, seals, keepers... Then had some gasket matching and port work done. 

Did a terrific job and I plan on taking the bottom end in when I have the rest of the funds needed.


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

Before I can do anything else I need to remove the block and transmission from the engine bay. I'm dreading this task, but I have everything unattached from the motor/tranny. Looks easy but I can only hope everything goes as planned...

After the block is out it's off to the machine shop for either a 81.5mm bore or a 83mm bore, still have yet to decide... It will also be decked, have freeze plugs removed, hone, ridge ream, dunk in the tank, etc.

All new rod, main, and wrist pin bearings will be used in the reassembly. New pistons/rings will be used. I've also ordered ARP rod bolts. When I get the motor back I'll paint it and install all new gaskets.

I'm still undecided on the clutch. Can't decided over the standard or the HD sach... Wondering what the HP rating is on the standard...?

While the motor is out I'd like to pressure wash the engine bay and give it a good cleaning. Also want to clean up the transmission and replace all the seals.

I've decided to go with a dual outlet manifold with TT downpipe and high flow cat rather than the Raceland Header. I'm also going to get the 2.25" cat back with borla muffler. I want my car to be quieter than my audi so I can hear my music while driving. I also don't want to worry about extending the o2 sensor, etc.

Any tips, hints, or suggestions are appreciated. I'm just focusing on getting this baby up and running so I can save some money on insurance in order to finish the rest of it. I have all new suspension bushing/bearings waiting to go in. However, this will all happen after the car is running.

My ultimate goal is to build a SOLID daily with a little performance boost. I'm not doing anything too crazy, but doing everything the right way.


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

Finally got the motor out of the car. Now I just need to get the pesky crank sprocket off. That thing is ON there! I locked the crank with the pressure plate trick and still couldn't get the sprocket off with hand tools... I'll probably need an air wrench.










Now, I'd like to clean all this up before I put the motor back in. I know I'll probably have to take the transmission out at some point, but is it a good idea to give it a good pressure wash with the transmission in there? I know not to shoot water directly at the seals (which will be replaced anyway). But will it ruin anything?

Here is only a 1/3 of the copious amounts of new parts waiting to go back on...










Recieved my ARP rod bolts yesterday along with some wristpin bearing and my intermediate shaft bearings... As soon as I get the crank sprocket off I can take the block to the machine shop.

I'll update with more pictures later...


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

More pictures...

Original motor pulled...









Cleaned the intake... sitting next to the head, ARP rod bolts, dual outlet manifold and some gaskets...









Planning on pressure washing the engine bay tomorrow. I need to find plugs for where the AC lines went throught the firewall... I know home depot has some.









More parts...









More parts... New top is just out of the picture in the backseat... Black Canva baby!









And more parts...










So, Im curious about something... I'm running a very mild 260 cam so I don't think it will be a problem, but my valves stick out pretty far past the deck of the head. I've matched the gasket up to the deck and they protrude just past the gasket... The Intake valves seem to stick out a little further than the exhaust valves. However, I don't think I should have clearance issues with the intake valves since they will be open at the bottom of the stroke. My question is, do I need to be worried about exhaust valve clearance? Shouldn't the valves close all the way before the piston reaches the top of it's stroke? Or will my motor potentially be an interference motor now that the head is resurfaced a tad combined with more lift...? Maybe I'm just thinking too much. Here are some Pics for reference...

Valve position reference pic...








Showing clearance, same valve...








Exhaust valve clearance...









I'd like to potentially go with some HC pistons after I bore the block to 82.5-83mm. But I'm worried about clearance issues with the resurfacing of the head and block. I know I'll have a hair more compression from the resurfacing, but lose that compression with the bore. Will I have to run race gas with 10.5:1 pistons, or something mild like that? Is the bowl just more shallow in the HC piston with the same overall height? Will this effect reliability? I don't plan on racing around town, this car will be driven casually for the most part, but I'd like to be able to have some fun every once and a while. I figure since I'm rebuilding this is going to be a learning experience and a time to do internal performance stuff since I don't plan cracking the motor open again once i'm done... and after 250k-300k miles I'll probably just swap a different motor entirely.

So if anyone can suggest modifications, some pistons, and/or provide tips that'd be great.


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

One last thing... I still can't get the crank sprocket off. I tried an using an air wrench and it wouldn't give... Any suggestions?


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## L33t A2 (Aug 5, 2003)

*FV-QR*

try to get a snug fitting impact grade socket on there, use a long breaker bar with a pipe slipped over the end for more leverage, though with the engine not bolted to anything you might just roll the block around on the ground


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

Yeah, its been a pain and has me worried about retorquing to spec. It was suggested to me that I torch it if its been thread locked.. I'll have to try that... other than that, its the only thing holding up the build right now. I need to get that off before I send it to the machine shop. 

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## D3hd3nd (Jun 18, 2008)

Solid work so far looks like you aren't skipping any corners :thumbup:

As for the boring i'd go with the smallest possible as you can weaken the cylinder walls going larger, doubt you'd have a problem unless you're putting down large numbers just a thought to consider, keep it up


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

Yeah not planning on breaking any records. Just want a fun solid daily. I've been doing my research and taking my time to ensure I do everything right. I have a friend that has a detail business that's going to clean the engine bay before I reinstall the motor. I also would like to rewrap the harness and find new clips... suggestions are welcome.

I would like to clean the transmission while its out but I'm having trouble finding something to plug the speedo hole. I have a pressure washer and plenty of degreasers to fight it with... any areas I need to be careful of? Or concerns? I have a new main shaft seal and pushrod seal/bushing for when I'm done.

Also looking for a cruise control shaft/lever/rod. If anyone has one pm me... looking for type with ball connector on one side and the other side is just a metal rod with a bend to keep it in the cc hole on the throttle body.

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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

A4Quattrot said:


> I would like to clean the transmission while its out but I'm having trouble finding something to plug the speedo hole. I have a pressure washer and plenty of degreasers to fight it with... any areas I need to be careful of? Or concerns? I have a new main shaft seal and pushrod seal/bushing for when I'm done.


Speedo cables work very well.:thumbup:


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

Lmao. I don't know why I didn't think of that... however my cable is still connected to the cabin. Not sure I want to tear the dash apart to have a plug...

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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Some cars have a shorter version due to a box in the engine compartment for the EGR/O2 counter. You could find one of those or go to a pick-n-pull and pull a speed sensor from a mkIII. Or go to a hardware store and get a rubber bottle stopper.


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## L33t A2 (Aug 5, 2003)

*FV-QR*

wine cork


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

I ended up cleaning around the hole and then duct taping it. I opted not to use a pressure washer and just used hot water, brushes (wire and plastic bristled), and lots of degreaser. I also replaced the push rod bushing and seal. I still need to do the bigger seal on the tranny.

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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

When putting the new PR seal in I was slowly tapping it in and then all the sudden one side went wayyy deeper than the other. I removed it and will buy a new one just in case I messed up the seal when taking it out. Also looks like the pushrod needs to be replaced. The pressure plate side is nearly flat. 

Quick question, do you guys think I really need ARP head studs? Are they really worth it or required with the type of build I'm doing. Just asking because I could easily put that extra $110 elsewhere.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

not needed unless you plan on pulling the head an a regular basis.


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

Also, I bought a gasket kit that came with paper gaskets. Do these work very well? Anything I need to do to them, like use a sealer, etc.? 

Here are some pictures of progress...

Cleaned the tranny...









Billet adjustable cam gear... However, the 260 cam from TT doesn't have the notch for a cam tool... and this gear doesn't have any holes for a gear... So IDK how I'm going to tighten it... FML.









Clean engine bay... This is the first cleaning, I plan on having a detail buddy of mine do a thorough polish.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

A4Quattrot said:


> Also, I bought a gasket kit that came with paper gaskets. Do these work very well? Anything I need to do to them, like use a sealer, etc.?


I like to use either "Dirko" or the "Victor Rienz" sealants with any type of gasket.




A4Quattrot said:


> Billet adjustable cam gear... However, the 260 cam from TT doesn't have the notch for a cam tool... and this gear doesn't have any holes for a gear... So IDK how I'm going to tighten it... FML.


What cam tool do you speak of? I have never seen one for the gasser motors, only the diesels. And you can use a large crescent wrench on a lobe and TQ to spec. That is how I have done any that I have ever had to do.


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## L33t A2 (Aug 5, 2003)

A4Quattrot said:


> Also looks like the pushrod needs to be replaced. The pressure plate side is nearly flat.


They are supposed to be. The pressure plate side should have a slightly beveled nearly flat side, and the release bearing side should be a perfect ball end.


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

L33t A2 said:


> They are supposed to be. The pressure plate side should have a slightly beveled nearly flat side, and the release bearing side should be a perfect ball end.


Mine is worst than this... 








However it's worn down almost to the end of where it starts to taper. It's still slightly rounded though...

Should look like this according to brokevw...









Anyone know where to find good door cards and carpet. From what I've heard, TMI door cards and carpet aren't that great. I have a TMI headliner, but have yet to install it, so I'm not sure if it will fit nicely. Others say their door cards are thin and you can see the impression of the clips through the leather...


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## twin2turbo87 (May 8, 2012)

Thanks for sharing. I'm glad I wandered into the engine forum. I'm doing a quick rering job on my 82 1.6 gas right now also. Good info.


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

Update: So not much of an update but I've since purchased nearly everything I need to complete the rebuild except TT exhaust w/ borla muffler, ST coilovers, and I'd like to get a new carpet kit but I'm having trouble finding a reasonably priced one considering the better carpets are from Europe and the shipping is outrageous. 

I also need rod bearings, crank bearings, and piston rings but I'm waiting to have the block mic'd before purchasing any of these parts. Block should be going in very soon, it's just been a matter of funding and time. 

Things I've bought: 

7mm high flow valves 
260 cam 
7mm valve guides 
lightweight lifters 
chromoly retainers 
HD valve springs 
K&N air filter 
ignition rotor 
ignition wires 
all new gaskets 
oil pan 
oil pan baffle 
oil pump pickup baffle 
timing belt 
timing belt tensioner pulley 
adjustable cam sprocket 
dual outlet manifold 
tt dual downpipe 
high flow cat 
o2 sensor 
knock sensor 
low pressure oil sensor 
high pressure oil sensor 
oil pressure sender 
clutch 
16v pressure plate 
all new seals 
heater core 
injector seals 
alternator pulley 
pressure plate bolts 
flywheel bolts 
arp rod bolts 
arp main cap bolts 
tt short shift kit 
intermediate shaft bearings 
wrist pin bearings 
arp head studs 
freeze plugs 
crankshaft sprocket bolt 
exhaust studs/nuts 
throwout bearing 
pushrod 
green trans end cap 
heater core hoses 
clutch cable 
clutch cable mounting kit 
fuel pressure regulator 
all v-belts 
water pump 
hood rod clip 
oil temp sender 
coolant 4 oulet flange 
coolant sensors 
head gasket 
oil filler cap w/ gasket 
fan run-on switch 
ball joints 
tie rods 
control arms 
control arm bushings 
shift bushings 
shock dust boots 
bump stops 
front and rear wheel bearings 
rear drums 
rear brake cylinders 
rear shoes 
front disc brakes 
front pads 
sway bar bushings 
thermostat housing 
dip stick 
dip stick funnel 
in tank fuel pump 
in line fuel pump 
coolant reservoir 
coolant cap 
rear window cranks 
HD black headliner 
top pad 
black canvas top 
new top cables 
black side cable/screw covers 
map light 
reverse light switch 

and more... I'm sure I'm forgetting some stuff. 

Pretty much going to brand new when it's back on the road.


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## VanManNW (Nov 14, 2012)

:beer: 
This is getting good! 
Subscribed!


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

Yup, I'm hopefully going to take the block in next week. Then once its done I'd like to repaint it before I start the assembly. Figured it would be better to buy everything I needed before beginning to increase the speed of the entire process.


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## Glegor (Mar 31, 2008)

should have gotten a bigger cam, like a 268-276* 

260 is barely bigger than stock, you forget its in there after a week..


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

Its a daily driver and I wanted a smooth idle. The intention is not to build a racecar. Stock cam was 20 yrs old, so new cam was more of a replacement. New cams are cheap if I ever want to upgrade. 

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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

Dropped the bottom end off at the machine shop today. ARP rod bolts, intermediate shaft bearings, and wrist pin bearings will be installed. Block is getting checked for cracked, cleaned, honed, and resurfaced. Crank will be micropolished and mic'd, then I'll buy the main and rod bearings...

My focus lately has been cleaning up the engine bay. I've rewrapped the PS hoses, replaced all the wire harness routing clips, and began using polishing compound to clean up the oxidized paint. I've also began sourcing replacements for many of the rusted/corroded old bolts.

I've compiled a long "to do" list that mostly involves cleaning up and replacing corroded mounts and other parts. I'll probably paint them with por15. I'd also like to replace the grounds and battery cables as well as my amplifier cables.

I've been debating on whether or not to source parts for a serpentine setup. I have all but a few v-belt parts for the a/c delete, but I like the idea of an easy to replace belt. Problem seems to be finding info for a setup that retains the power steering.

Alternator, p/s pump, washer fluid bottle, and steering rack are the only other parts that look pretty old/dirty... if I can remove some yellowing, I may keep the original washer bottle, but it will look out of place if I replace everything else. Steering rack can probably just be cleaned up since its out of sight for the most part... 

Let me know if you guys have any other suggestions on what to do/clean/replace/add at this point. I'll post up pictures of my progress when I get home.

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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

Got some new black high grade intake manifold, throttle body, oil pan, and valve cover arm bolts... working on finding replacements for as many others as I can. 

Also ordered a new heater valve, washer pump, brake line clips, and fan after-on relay... 

As promised, here's some bay cleaning progress...


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

Highly considering converting to a serpetine setup due to the clean look and smoother function if I can source the parts. However, I've looked high and low and can't seem to find a simplified parts list for an 8v with no a/c while retaining the PS. 

This is the belt configuration... 










I found this pulley, http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/2555/Billet_Crank_Pulley_8V 
which sound like it will work for both the crank pulley and pulley that drives the PS pump. 

Do I use the VR6 pulley and then find a mk3 alternator (with serp. pulley) with this? 

Then what mounts do I need? Do I specifiecally need the mount for a MK3 without a/c and with PS? Do I need a different mount for PS pump? different PS pulley? 

Anyone have part numbers? 

Updates: Ordered a new (speedo-cable --> tranny) gasket/o-ring, hood mounted washer jet, and heater hose dual outlet grommet. Also dropped off a box of bolts at the local fastener store to get replacements. Nearly all the bolts will be replaced with 12.8 grade bolts with Allen heads so I only have to carry minimal tools around with me. 

Thinking about hiding washer bottle in rain tray since finding one that isn't yellowed and nasty is nearly impossible.


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

Bag of Old Bolts...









Some of the new bolts...









These are what I ended up getting. 12.8 grade with allen socket head. Swapped many of the hex caps for allen style so I could use less tools to work on my car.









Next thing is finding some ground strap replacements... I'm either going to build them myself, or possibly have some made. I'm really not too fond of the cheap straps available at most auto parts stores. I want some straps for the long haul...

Also, need to get all the mounts and brackets cleaned and either painted or powdercoated...


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

Still cleaning up the engine bay to prepare it for the rebuilt motor. I got some Alpine White in a spray can from my local paint store. Initially I was just going to repaint the core support under the grill. It was faded and had some very minor surface rust spots. Impulsively I began painting the engine bay and I'm glad I did. I didn't waste time taping up much of anything and instead used a piece of cardboard as a shield. I got over spray on a few things but it doesn't matter since they will be replaced. After I finished, I took a good hour with some acetone and rags to remove any over spray from parts that will remain. Overall, it looks about 100x better than it did before... I also used por15 to paint the pulleys and other misc. mounts. I polished the ECU mount and spent a little time polishing the AFM. I'll have to go over it again with a dremel to get the hard to reach areas I couldn't get with the cotton wheel. I'll wait about a week for the paint to cure and then probably buff it out a bit. It's a little glossier than semi-gloss, but the guy at the paint store said buffing it will make it as shiny as the rest of the car. The paint has clear mixed into it...

I also ordered some more stuff to replace parts that worked, but were corroded and nearly impossible to clean. I should be getting a new ignition coil, distributor, alternator adjustment bolt, aluminum thermostat cover, trans plug, washer fluid reservoir & cap, and a new starter...

Only things left to get are a new alternator, brake fluid reservoir/cap, battery/ground cables, battery with cover, steering rack bushings, and possibly some new axles...

Here's some pictures...

Before









After


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

Update:

Block is still at the machine shop. I've been sourcing all sorts of stuff while the bottom end is being finished. I ended up having to buy some new OEM 81.5mm pistons cause the old pistons had too much variation. Block is getting bored and honed for new pistons/rings.

I bought new bearings and just received them today. Unfortunately, I'm not sure I want to use the rod bearings. The, NEW?, box had been opened and the shrink wrap holding them secure was torn open  The first 3 bearings on the side closest to the tear rubbed against one another and they have some very noticeable scratches. Here are some pictures...





































Anyways... 

I ordered a bunch of new tid bits to freshen up the bay even further. I also ordered a bunch of black woven expandable sleeving, high temp fiberglass sleeving, shrink wrap, and terminal release tools in order to rewrap the engine harness. I plan on putting the fiberglass stuff on the parts of the harness that are located in high temp areas and use the woven expandable stuff to wrap the stuff around the border of the bay. 

I also ordered all new coolant hoses and other misc clips/covers/bolts/bushings/etc.

I made myself some shrouds for the radiator as well. I still need to make the passengers side but I ran out of metal.


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## filthyillness (Feb 13, 2010)

What a good find. All the engine work is being done at a machine shop or are you doing some of the internal work yourself?


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

I'm having the block partially assembled at the machine shop. I'm using ARP rod bolts and they have all the stretch measuring tools and whatnot to make sure its perfect. M&B Cylinders builds all the motors for horsepower freaks, lots of supra drift motors, as well as the motors for the Double Jay Motorwerks drag and vw rally cars. I just figure I'd rather have it done with the proper tools. Then I'm installing the head and all the seals/carriers/gaskets and everything attached to the motor. Just waiting for the remaining parts and wire sleeving to get here now so I can rewrap the harness and finish the bay prep.


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

The only remaining mechanical stuff I'd like to buy are the axles/hubs, radiator fan (flex-a-lite scirocco), p/s pump, alternator, battery and mk3/4 battery +/- cables, and all new worm/spring clamps... there probably is more, there's always more 

After the motor is in I'll start on the interior... thinking about some darker brown or red seats and replacing all the white door cards with black. Already got a new black headlined waiting to be installed.


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

Got the block back today 










Beautimus!


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

Got a little work done today... hopefully the rest of my sleeving comes so I can wrap the harness and have the bay ready to go by the time my engine mounts are ready. Currently they are still at the machine shop being pressing into the mounts.


























Unfortunately the cam sprocket doesn't exactly fit correctly. The tabs that mount the adjustable face make contact with the valve cover. Is there supposed to be a washer between the cam and sprocket? Sucks cause the sprocket was expensive and looks bad ass compared to the usually TT ones.


















Could also be that the TT cam is the bad part...? Perhaps the mounting face is further back than it is supposed to be? Sprockets line up though...? Cam sprocket is from Bahn Brenner.


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## ny_fam (Apr 3, 2004)

Nice project- 
I don't think you can install the cam wrong to cause the cam gear issue. The nice thing about that sprocket is the steel gear won't wear out. You could run a thin gasket behind the gear. I think I'd contact BB about the issue though. 

Think your missing a ported intake to go along with all the other upgraded parts. 
http://www.scientificrabbit.com/ 

What brand pistons and sized do you get? Mind sharing the price you got them from? 
Cheers 
ny_fam


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## filthyillness (Feb 13, 2010)

Can't wait to see how this performs. Build looks awesome!

Galaxy S3 via Tapatalk


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

ny_fam said:


> Nice project-
> I don't think you can install the cam wrong to cause the cam gear issue. The nice thing about that sprocket is the steel gear won't wear out. You could run a thin gasket behind the gear. I think I'd contact BB about the issue though.
> 
> Think your missing a ported intake to go along with all the other upgraded parts.
> ...


 Yeah, I held the old cam up to the new one and its the same length and everything. Contacted BBM and hopefully I can get it squared away. Unfortunate because I love the way it looks compared to the usual red or blue gears. I'm going for a fairly OEM look and refraining from the bright colored aftermarket stuff.

Pistons are upsize OEM Kolbenschmidt 81.5mm. I got them from fcp euro with a bunch of other stuff and received 5% off. I'd just contact fcp over the phone and see what deal they can give you. I've found that to be the best procedure when ordering any expensive parts. For instance, about a year ago I got ST coilovers for my A4 for like $700 shipped by calling around and making companies compete for my business, Haha.

I think the pistons were somewhere in the mid $300 range...

And about the ported intake... maybe eventually. My goal is to just build a solid car that is fairly reliable. Being 20 years old, I figure replacing virtually everything was the best idea in order to limit chasing gremlins. However, I should mention that many aftermarket parts are not nearly as durable as the OEM stuff, so I've been trying to source as much NOS and OEM parts as possible.

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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

filthyillness said:


> Can't wait to see how this performs. Build looks awesome!
> 
> Galaxy S3 via Tapatalk


 Thank you, and to think this all spawned from a head gasket repair haha. The only performance upgrades are the modified valve train, ported head, upsize pistons (minimal), exhaust manifold, high flow cat, exhaust, 16v pressure plate, and aftermarket panel filter. I'm hoping its a little more snappy than stock, but overall I didn't intend on doing anything too crazy in order to maintain reliability.

I'll probably get a tune as well once its all together in order to squeeze out a few more ponies/torque. I'd also like to get a higher 5th gear to squeeze out some more mpg's.

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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

While installing the head, some assembly lube dripped down one of the oil tubes and before I could torque any bolts, got between the hg/block/head. As I finished torquing the bolts I noticed a small drip down the front near the oil return... I'll probably just get a new HG and redo it before I put the motor in the car since they are relatively inexpensive and I'd rather not have to do the HG later on while the motor is in the car. I'd also like to use a good torque wrench for the final assembly... 

Did a little more clean up today... took the P/S mounts off, cleaned and lubed the rubber, cleaned and painted the straps, and reinstalled. Also got a new ground wire for the P/S and used a black paint pen to touch up the black chipped paint on the P/S 

Before... 









During... 

















After... 









Here's a little "overall" progress photo... 









And now...


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## filthyillness (Feb 13, 2010)

That photo of the engine bay with the previous look, dirty, print out is creative. Nice! 

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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

filthyillness said:


> That photo of the engine bay with the previous look, dirty, print out is creative. Nice!


 Thank you. It's come a long way. 

When I bought it, I remember thinking, "damn, this is very clean for a 20 year old car..." 

Projects keep stacking up though. I replace or clean one thing and then see something else that could use a cleaning/replacement. Pretty sure my subconscious is telling me to make the car brand new and has my pocketbook in a full nelson. 

I can 100% guarantee I've spent more restoring/rebuilding the car than I initially paid for it but I'm in it for the long run and won't sell the car for a very long time. 


ALSO, I noticed the other day that the engine code is PF? There initially was a thin metal plate glued into the engine code location that said something like "B ### ###"... It fell off and after they cleaned the engine I can now make out the letters PF... Makes me think that the motor was swapped by one of the previous owners but there's no record of it. The car came with lots of receipts from all 3 of the previous owners, including a carfax report. No mention of a motor swap... I was certain the 2H came in the cabriolet though. 

PF engine has +11HP/+14TQ with identical specs as the 2H... No problem at all IMO. 


I'm hoping the fiberglass sleeving and shrink tubing comes today so I can start removing the brittle PCV sleeving and begin wrapping the harness in new fancy stuff.


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

So I finally got ahold of BBM and they're going to send me a TT sprocket. Seems as though their sprocket doesn't fit with the stamped steel cover and they seemed to have no knowledge of the incompatibility. According to them it fits the cast aluminum valve covers, no problem. However, I'd rather not spend more, buy a new cover, and then have to deal with fitting the PCV just to make it fit...

So, once I get the TT gear, I want to remove the red anodizing and perhaps get it anodized clear or polish it. I'd rather not have it be the only red part in my engine bay and stick out like a sore thumb... my goal is a neutral OEM (motorsport) type look.


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## filthyillness (Feb 13, 2010)

Indeed.

I grabbed the idea from getaway car in the mkv forums to utilize the painless powerbraid nylon tube wraps and nylon wrapped hoses to replace and recover some of the wires and hoses in my engine bay. For both my A2 and MKV GTI

Can be had from summit racing at a fair price. I've yet to check for other sources but I'm lazy so might be who I go with for that.

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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

I got my fiberglass/flameproof from 034motorsport and nylon stuff cable organizers. 

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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

During



















Rewrapped NOS ALT cable...










Harnesses running over the engine wrapped in heat/flame resistant sleeving...



















Harnesses along the side of the bay wrapped in automotive grade expandable nylon...


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

It's been quite some time since I last updated this thread. Needless to say, the motor is in the bay and about 97.5% complete. I'll start with some progress pictures...

Radiator side and top covers...


















Rewired injector harness and added heat sleeving









Had to use TT sprocket instead... BB one interfered with the head. I liked the look of the BB one better and might reanodize the TT one :/









New p/s fluid....









Wrinkle painted valve cover...









Some flag mirrors... Just because...









Motor is in... finally.


















Wrapped the trunk cards and cut a 2pc. Wood floor, which I also wrapped in the same material as the cards and box... 









Tore the carpet out after seeing some standing water while running the new 1/0 overkill amp power cable and speaker wire.









Cleaned up the floor a little, still need to vacuum up the dirty crap that the rags I used didn't pick up... pretty sure I might have had some kind of mold under or within the old carpet/padding. I neglected to wear a face mask or anything while I tore the carpet out and for about 2 days after the fact, I had a bad cough, bloodshot achey eyes, and stuffy nose. Its went away since then and I've since bleached the hell out of the inside of the car and used about 5 other harsh cleaners to make sure I get all the nasties out before laying new sound deadening, decoupled sound barrier, heat insulation on firewall area, and all new carpet.. still need to pick a color scheme. Materials should be here on Friday and some time next week.


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

BTW, the floor has no visible rust... the brownish stuff is the OEM wax for the most part... some of the darker black stuff is unidentified, but not rust. Looks more like left over adhesive.


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

Used a heatgun to remove the old sound deadening before applying some new stuff from Audio Technix. So far I only have the drivers rear part of the floor entirely finished. I removed the deadening from the drivers front but still need to clean up the left over adhesive before applying the new stuff. I finished applying deadener to the passengers door as well, but still need to work on the barrier layer of CCF/MLV. The trunk is also nearly done. I just need to finish putting CCF/MLV on the sides/walls. Here are some progress pictures...

Butyl Deadener on the bench portion... I also have the CCF/MLV done but have yet to get a picture.









Layer of CCF in the trunk.









Random patches of Deadening to achieve ~25% coverage before the CCF/MLV









Some deadening on the trunk lid... still needs CCF/MLV









Started laying MLV in the trunk...









I completed the spare tire area but don't have the pics of it 100% done yet... Here is about 75% done.









I'll take some more pictures of progress later tonight...


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## tinker6468 (Feb 2, 2006)

Great inspiration - picking up my 1993 tomorrow morning to start my newest project after selling my 1990. Can't wait to get started. Only 3 hours north of ya - Go Sounders


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

Mounted a board wrapped with box material to the bar across the back in order to mount the amps.









I need to pick up a hose to go between the heater valve and water pipe, tighten the crank and cam sprocket/pulley bolts to specs, fill with coolant, and figure out how I'm going to attached the 1/0 power wire to the battery terminal... due to the size of wire and the tight fit between the battery and air box, its been a pain to find terminals that allow both the starter wire the amp power to be connected from opposing sides as well as the two OEM harness wires.









Got some new speakers and I'm still working on the deadening. Carpet should be here tomorrow... I wanna find something to plug the mirror adjust hole until I get new door cards.









































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## RogueRabbit83 (Jan 29, 2011)

You have really done some great work here :thumbup:


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

RogueRabbit83 said:


> You have really done some great work here :thumbup:


Thank you. Its been taking way longer than I initially planned but I've put a lot of effort into fixing everything and making sure each and every part of the car is in tip top shape before I begin driving it. As soon as I start to drive it I know any further progress will be even slower since it will be my daily. At the moment I'm driving an 03' A4 that I plan on selling once the cabby is ready and its been nice not having to worry about the rate of progress since I have another car to drive. I want to make sure I have a solid car before committing to driving it as my daily.

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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

Cut the main drivers side piece of MLV tonight... so minus the passengers side floor, the easy stuff is done. Now I have to cut a bunch of puzzle piece shapes to fit around the middle beam and exhaust tunnel. The middle beam is going to b less important than the exhaust tunnel, especially since Im using a mass backed carpet as well... Hopefully she'll be much quieter and even more so if I decide to use the thinsulate acoustic layer when I redo my top. /ramble

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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

I finished wiring the speakers in 3/4 doors. The subwoofer is fully wired a sounds amazing. I finally got some battery terminals that allow me to aesthetically and correctly connect all the proper wires and new over-sized battery cables to the battery. Exhaust is almost completely installed but I have to tweak it around a bit before tightening everything. Wired everything into the dash and got new incandescent bulbs for the cluster. I was going to do LED, but decided to replace them and put it back together before I could decide what color LED bulbs I wanted. I also wanted to match the VDO gauges lighting and so I want to do the VDO gauges first. I finished laying the sound deadening and have the carpet about 85% installed. I still need to cut the seat belt bolt holes and trim the carpet along the door edges but I can't decide if I should use some sort of adhesive to secure the edge of the carpet near the front on the sides of the floor/foot well under the dash. My last carpet was lifting in that area and was impossible to secure...

In other news, I filled the coolant reservoir and started her up for the first time. Siphoned the old gas and diluted the remaining with some fresh 92. Motor fired up almost immediately and, without adjusting the ignition timing, was already running significantly better than it was before the rebuild. I still need to do the entire process of letting it heat up, unplugging the blue sensor, and going through the whole digifart timing crap. 

ST coilovers should be arriving some time next week. I also bought new brake calipers and lines after seeing a rusty piston and jacked up seal on my drivers side front brake. Initially I thought I may just have not properly bleed the back brakes but this could have been the reason for my soft brakes... That and the entire inside of the wheel was covered in CV axle grease.


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

I'll post more tonight.


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## flying_oliver (Apr 29, 2013)

Just read through this. Great work. One day I will get my 92 looking like that!
Keep us posted :thumbup:


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## A4Quattrot (Jul 4, 2008)

Got her running better this weekend but I need to borrow a timing light. 

The cheapo timing light I had crapped out and was intermittently strobing due to a faulty #1 spark plug wire inductive clip. At first the clip wasn't receiving a good solid input unless I held the spring loaded portion open with just the right amount of pressure... but now it's not receiving a signal at all and the light isn't even flashing. 

I replaced the calipers, bearings, hubs, strut bushings/mounts, suspension and brake lines this weekend...






































Picture to show the battery cable termination setup I ended up with... I tried other terminals and couldn't get the 1/0 cables to attach at their respective angles without coming in contact with the airbox.


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## lleee (Sep 8, 2015)

:thumbup: that is one awesome cabby, i wish i had that much patience!


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