# Cam chain tensioner noise, low oil pressure... 15 psi @ idle, 38 psi @ 2k rpms, already replaced clogged screen, what next?



## machx0r (Feb 25, 2001)

So I've been tracking down why my cam chain tensioner is clicking so loud, http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...e-cam-chain-tensioner-is-really-failing-(Pics) 

In the process I tested the oil pressure and it seems low at idle. It started out around 50 psi at idle but as it warmed up it quickly dropped to around 20 psi. My Bentley says it should be 29 psi minimum @ idle and between 39-66 psi @ 2K rpms (it was steady at 61 psi). 

So does this sound like a blocked pickup screen? 

I could just drop the pan and look but I figured I'd ask for advice first and see it anyone would recommend I do a flush first or something. 

When I had the valve cover off there was some dark brown, hard, spots up top but the engine itself looked fairly clean w/ a very light brown film (you can see pics at my thread above, wish I had taken better ones).


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## machx0r (Feb 25, 2001)

Been searching around a lot (both before and after posting ) and I don't see any clear consensus. Plus with no responses yet I figure I'll start with a solvent based oil flush (funds are short and driving the car is not really an option [it scares me] so Auto-RX doesn't seem like an option). 

I have relatively clean oil/filter and the only downside I've seen on solvent based flushes is that the sludge (if any) can collect at the oil pickup screen. Since I already plan to drop the pan eventually and check out the screen this doesn't seem like a problem to me. Plus doing the flush before dropping the pan saves me at least one oil change and the cost of RTV sealant (seriously funds are low ). 

Just replying to give everyone the option to tell me the downsides of doing a flush with whatever I can buy at AutoZone :thumbup:


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## machx0r (Feb 25, 2001)

So I looked around and all I could find locally was Gunk High Mileage engine oil flush and it specifically states "not recommended for turbocharged engines". So I decided to just go ahead and drop the pan and here's what I found: 



















The chunks look alot like the silicone gasket I removed (some of which could have fallen in during the removal but not the chunks stuck in the screen): 










Which is frustrating because all the engine repair work I've had done on my car has been at the same VW stealership and my Bentley seems pretty (excessively?) clear on how the sealant should be applied and the possiblity of clogging the screen if done incorrectly. 

Moving on... I got a lot of the chunks out of the screen by just forcing water down from the oil pump side w/ a little hand cleaner (hey it gets to oil off my hands right? lol). I'll drop it in some parts cleaner overnight and see how it looks, replacing it if it doesn't clean up well. 

Overall very happy to be making progress towards eliminating my cam chain noise w/o spending anywhere near what I originally though (sometimes it's good to be wrong). 

Anyway the real point of this response... Does the varnish/dark black on my pan look "ok" for a 105K engine or should I be concerned and/or do anything about it (ie: Auto-RX after the car is back on the road)? Pics for reference:


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## hyperformancevw (Mar 15, 2007)

20psi @ hot idle is normal


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## machx0r (Feb 25, 2001)

hyperformancevw said:


> 20psi @ hot idle is normal


 The test procedure in my Bentley was to run the engine until the radiator fan cycles once and said the minimum spec at idle was 29 psi so ~31% low sounds like a lot to me. I did exactly what is said and the pressure stayed low at 20 PSI. It dropped this low well before the engine was too hot to hold and before the radiator fans came on and remained this low until I shut down. 

In any case as you can see from the pics above the pan is off and there is definitely some clogging on the screen and large chunks of silicone in the pan so even if this isn't the cause of my tensioner clicking it needed to be done. I should have all the parts and the pan back on tomorrow night and know more. 

Still wondering about the dark varnish in the pan though and whether that looks normal or not :thumbup:


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## hyperformancevw (Mar 15, 2007)

that varnish is normal. oil residue bakes to engine parts over time. trust me 20 psi at hot idle is enough pressure especially since you can reach 60psi while revving. thats about what i had on mine and it ran fine at over 400hp. 

you also have to consider the gauge as a variable. you will only get the same results as the test procedure if you use the exact gauge they used. i have seen a lot of gauges that dont read 100% accurate.


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## machx0r (Feb 25, 2001)

Sometimes I really hate this car...

So I replaced the pickup tube and fought on my back forever to get the oil pan back on (I thought those two inner transmission bolts were hard to get out...) let it run for a little while longer this time to really get the oil hot and the situation is no better.

15 psi @ idle, 38 psi @ 2k rpm, cam chain is as loud as ever. (My oil pressure test tool is new and claims an accuracy of +/- 2% btw)

Getting frustrated throwing money and time at this and not getting any closer to a well running car. 

Anyway looking for advice on where to go next (I know a mechanic would be a good option but I can't really afford labor costs, let alone parts lol). 

I'm thinking I'll drop the pan again tomorrow and take apart the oil pump to look for wear/scoring although I'm not really sure what to look for. I'll probably take pics of what I find and post back. 

Does this sound like a good plan? 

Really appreciate any help :thumbup:


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## machx0r (Feb 25, 2001)

So I took out the oil pump and disassembled it. My bentley says "if abnormal scoring is found, the pump must be replaced". I'm not really sure what abnormal is and the camera on my phone sucks too much to get good pictures. 

Anyway there are several grooves worn into both the gears and the flat part of the housing they rub against. Most aren't very deep (can't feel them) but there are a few that catch my fingernail. There is also a leading edge on the housing where the gear teeth come together that seems to be shaved down a little. I also submerged it in the clean oil I just dumped out and spun it around and heard a slight clicking (maybe this is normal).

Wish I could get good pics but I figure I'll just replace the pump as my next dart *shrug*. Not really sure what else to do :banghead:

Oh ya also should I have taken the gear off the remove the oil pump (and for when I re-install it)? 

I was able to move it aside and get enough slack in the chain to get it out but just barely. I figure installing it this way (with the gear on) will be even more of a challenge. Tried removing the gear when I took it out but wasn't sure how to keep it from spinning.

As always thanks for the help :thumbup:


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## MarkusWolf (Dec 10, 2001)

Keep us updated if you decide to bit the bullet and buy and install the Cam chain tensioner.

Please include the part number when you do you.

Thanks.


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## jaypee77 (Jan 3, 2002)

*Any updates?*

Please let us know if you solved the noise problem. I think I have a similar issue. Thanks.

Jon


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## bmp20th03 (Sep 11, 2009)

Does the oil pressure light ever come on? At the shop we have a oil pressure gauge that has a port for the oil pressure sensor. I install the gauge in the car and drive it around the lot tull the oil pressure light comes on then look at the gauge. If your pickup is ok and your pump is ok worn/scored main bearings could cause low oil pressure. If your oil pressure light does not come on but your head is noisy I would pull a few cam caps ( the last 2 closest tto the adjuster) and make sure the cam journal in the head is not wiped out. 
-Chris


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## MarkusWolf (Dec 10, 2001)

> Does the oil pressure light ever come on? At the shop we have a oil pressure gauge that has a port for the oil pressure sensor. I install the gauge in the car and drive it around the lot tull the oil pressure light comes on then look at the gauge. If your pickup is ok and your pump is ok worn/scored main bearings could cause low oil pressure. If your oil pressure light does not come on but your head is noisy *I would pull a few cam caps ( the last 2 closest tto the adjuster) and make sure the cam journal in the head is not wiped out. *


My oil light NEVER comes on. 

What do yo mean by "make sure the cam journal in the head is not wiped out"? 

Thanks in advance.


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## salz2135 (Sep 18, 2006)

He means that you need to check the cam bearing caps to make sure there aren't signs of low oil pressure damage. If there is marring that can be felt by running your finger across the metal your motor is a huge piece of scrap metal. Damage identified at the cylinder head suggests there is damage at other friction points in the motor.

Let me ask you this:

If you think your oil pressure is slightly low at idle, but ok at 2K rpm, why do you think that the noisy tensioner is due to low oil pressure? Based on your theory and oil pressure results, the low oil pressure at idle would only account for a loud tensioner at idle. Once you rev to 2k rpm, the noise should go away. Is this what occurs?


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## MarkusWolf (Dec 10, 2001)

Salz,

Thanks for the answer.



> If you think your oil pressure is slightly low at idle, but ok at 2K rpm, why do you think that the noisy tensioner is due to low oil pressure? Based on your theory and oil pressure results, the low oil pressure at idle would only account for a loud tensioner at idle. Once you rev to 2k rpm, the noise should go away. Is this what occurs?


Start the car. Normal valve noise. Once I drive the car around the block and gets to operating temperature, the car sounds like a diesel at idle. Rev a little above 1K RPMs and there is no more diesel sound. The diesel sounds only happens at idle, no other times.

I personally have not checked into the oil pick up tube yet like the OP did.


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## bmp20th03 (Sep 11, 2009)

I would deff pull the valve cover and check your cam caps. If the cam journal/bearing is ok then replace your cam adjuster. 
-Chris


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## bmp20th03 (Sep 11, 2009)

MarkusWolf said:


> Salz,
> 
> Thanks for the answer.
> 
> ...


Did not realize 2 diffrent posts here. If you have not checked your pickup it would be a good idea to do a oil pressure test and if pressure is out of spec or low on the spec pull the pan and check the pickup. If pressure is ok pull the valve cover and remove a few cam caps ( Make sure to check the 2 closest to thecam tensioner, they are small and normally go first).


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## machx0r (Feb 25, 2001)

bmp20th03 said:


> Does the oil pressure light ever come on? At the shop we have a oil pressure gauge that has a port for the oil pressure sensor. I install the gauge in the car and drive it around the lot tull the oil pressure light comes on then look at the gauge. If your pickup is ok and your pump is ok worn/scored main bearings could cause low oil pressure. If your oil pressure light does not come on but your head is noisy I would pull a few cam caps ( the last 2 closest tto the adjuster) and make sure the cam journal in the head is not wiped out.
> -Chris


No the light doesn't come on but even with the sensor disconnected the light doesn't come on at idle, only when revved. Unfortunately my pressure tester doesn't have a port for the sensor so I can't confirm or deny if the switch is actually closing/opening when it should (24psi IIRC).

I swapped in the new oil pump last night and am seeing no difference in oil pressure (way under spec at idle, ~15 psi, and slightly at 2k, ~38 psi. The noise hasn't changed either (very loud at idle, quiets down when revved).

I'll go pull some cam caps and see what I find.


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## MarkusWolf (Dec 10, 2001)

> No the light doesn't come on but even with the sensor disconnected the light doesn't come on at idle, only when revved. Unfortunately my pressure tester doesn't have a port for the sensor so I can't confirm or deny if the switch is actually closing/opening when it should (24psi IIRC).
> 
> I swapped in the new oil pump last night and am seeing no difference in oil pressure (way under spec at idle, ~15 psi, and slightly at 2k, ~38 psi. The noise hasn't changed either (very loud at idle, quiets down when revved).
> 
> *I'll go pull some cam caps and see what I find.*


Take pictures please.


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## salz2135 (Sep 18, 2006)

Keeping fingers crossed that you don't have internal damage. 

If not, you should do a sludge treatment ASAP.


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## machx0r (Feb 25, 2001)

The wear doesn't look bad to me but I have no experience here. I couldn't feel any of the wear with my finger. Anyway here are some pics (sorry for the quality...):





































I had already ordered some Auto-RX so I think I'll just proceed with the flush and see how it goes. 

The tensioner might still be bad but the noise definitely seems related to the oil pressure and so I figure my best bet is to figure out the low oil pressure before attacking the tensioner.


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## bmp20th03 (Sep 11, 2009)

Its really hard to tell in the pic but the 2nd cap ( intake) looks scored. If you rub your finger nail thru it does it get caugt? If not I would replace the cam tensioner. Your oil pressure is fine, That is normal for it to only come on when you rev the engine with the sensor unpluged. Have you scanned the car to see if it has any cam allocation or adjustment faults?


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## bmp20th03 (Sep 11, 2009)

Also I hate to say it but the lower journal under the cam ( in the head) has even a smaller surface area then the cap and could be scored. You have to remove the intake cam anyways to removed the adjuster so you will see when you remove the cam. Make sure to time the motor first and I like to paint a tooth on each cam and the chain for reference.


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## machx0r (Feb 25, 2001)

bmp20th03 said:


> Its really hard to tell in the pic but the 2nd cap ( intake) looks scored. If you rub your finger nail thru it does it get caugt? If not I would replace the cam tensioner. Your oil pressure is fine, That is normal for it to only come on when you rev the engine with the sensor unpluged. Have you scanned the car to see if it has any cam allocation or adjustment faults?


Ya the intake side definitely has more wear than the exhaust. There are a few wear lines and a dark spot (upper middle right). None of which I can feel or catches my finger nail. 

I have been getting the following code for a while now:

*16395 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake): Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)
P0011 - 35-00 - - *

Which, along with the location of the noise, led me to think it was the cam chain tensioner. Long story short I started checking oil pressure and it seems really low (spec says 29 psi minimum at idle, I'm getting 15 psi) so I started down that path.

You mention that if my nail doesn't get caught (ie: the wear doesn't look bad?) I should replace the tensioner. Curious what you would recommend I do if the wear did seem bad?

Reason I'm asking is even if the engine is shot (it still seems to run fine at higher rpms, maybe a little low on power) I don't have much option but to continue driving her. I'll probably just end up replacing the tensioner, doing the Auto-RX sludge treatment and keeping my fingers crossed :laugh:


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## MarkusWolf (Dec 10, 2001)

We need to do a group buy on Auto Rx and the cam chain tensioner (I noticed a lot of people complaining about the diesel noise). The tensioner is freaking expensive for 2001 1.8T (I think with VVT). The others are expensive, just not as expensive as ours. 



> 1 BOTTLE $27.97
> 2 BOTTLES $23.97 each ($55.94 price, less $8.00 discount = $47.94 total)
> 3 BOTTLES $22.77 each ($83.91 price, less $15.60 discount = $68.31 total)
> 4 BOTTLES $22.27 each ($111.88 price, less $22.80 discount = $89.08 total)
> ...


Well, the Auto Rx would probably have to local effort since shipping defeats the purpose of saving a little money.


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## MarkusWolf (Dec 10, 2001)

> 16395 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake): Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)
> P0011 - 35-00 - -


I remember getting a similar code about 2 years ago. I obviously don't know the exact code, however, I do remember the tech mentioned "your timing is retarded" (sounds funny). He said they would have to redo my timing belt to diagnose, charge will be $200ish for labor. :banghead: Wrong diagnosis. 

So, it has been about 2 years now. The diesel sound at idle has admittedly sounding worse than 2 years before. 

Any reprecussions as to continue to not do the cam tensioner replacement? Or is this a must now? 

Thanks in advance.


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## machx0r (Feb 25, 2001)

I already bought my Auto-RX but here's the lowest prices I've found on the VVT tensioner:

MJM Autohaus: http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/...m_Timing_Chain_Tensioner_OEM&products_id=2180

ECS Tuning: http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--1.8T/Engine/Mechanical/ES2063671/

They both have other options available but those were the ones I was looking at.


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## MarkusWolf (Dec 10, 2001)

> MJM Autohaus: http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/p...oducts_id=2180
> 
> ECS Tuning: http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...cal/ES2063671/
> 
> They both have other options available but those were the ones I was looking at.


Thanks.

I knew about the MJM one, however, didn't know about the ECS. A little better to stomach.

I have the same engine code as you, AWW, so this is the one I need because of the VVT. :banghead: Non-VVT are so much less.


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## bmp20th03 (Sep 11, 2009)

You deff have something going on with the adjuster. If you have damage in the cam journal/bearing the heas is trashed and you need to replace the head. The adjuster is not bad to replace just a little exensive as you saw. I would remove the intake cam ( you have to anyways to reomve the adjuster) and check the lower cam journal closest to the tensioner and make sure its not destroyed. Put the motor at TDC Paint the chain and a tooth on each gear and you should be fine.


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## 18tboi (Jan 30, 2005)

bmp20th03 said:


> You deff have something going on with the adjuster. If you have damage in the cam journal/bearing the heas is trashed and you need to replace the head. The adjuster is not bad to replace just a little exensive as you saw. I would remove the intake cam ( you have to anyways to reomve the adjuster) and check the lower cam journal closest to the tensioner and make sure its not destroyed. Put the motor at TDC Paint the chain and a tooth on each gear and you should be fine.


what are the symptoms of a bad head?


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## 87vr6 (Jan 17, 2002)

machx0r said:


> It started out around 50 psi at idle but as it warmed up it quickly dropped to around 20 psi. My Bentley says it should be 29 psi minimum @ idle and between 39-66 psi @ 2K rpms (it was steady at 61 psi).


For the record, if you read the Bentley a little more carefully, you'll see that the only GAS motor with a oil pressure minimum for idle is the AFP, the 12v, not your 1.8t. Your readings seem normal.


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## machx0r (Feb 25, 2001)

87vr6 said:


> For the record, if you read the Bentley a little more carefully, you'll see that the only GAS motor with a oil pressure minimum for idle is the AFP, the 12v, not your 1.8t. Your readings seem normal.


Maybe my reading are normal but it reads just like this (tried taking a pic but it's too blurry)



Gasoline Engines

at idle........minimum 2.0 bar (29 psi)
at 2,000 rpm

1.8L.......2.7 to 4.5 bar (39 to 66psi)
2.0L.......3.0 to 4.5 bar (44 to 66psi)
2.8L (code: AFP)......above 2.0 b ar (29 psi)
2.8L (code: BDF)......above 3.0 bar (44 psi)
maximum..........7.0 bar (103 psi)


Diesel Engine

at idle........no factory specification available
at 2,000 rpm....minimum 2.5 bar (29 psi)


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## 87vr6 (Jan 17, 2002)

Weird, and I'm not arguing with you... but:










But I have a 2005 edition Bentley, which covers every MK4, including the R32 (with supplement), so that probably accounts for the difference and is what I was going off of. So, that being said, I have owned a 1.8t for 7 years, a good portion of that time with a Omori Oil Pressure gauge, and I always have about 20-25 at idle when warm. I think you're good on that aspect. And your higher pressure also falls in range.


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## machx0r (Feb 25, 2001)

87vr6 said:


> But I have a 2005 edition Bentley, which covers every MK4, including the R32 (with supplement), so that probably accounts for the difference and is what I was going off of. So, that being said, I have owned a 1.8t for 7 years, a good portion of that time with a Omori Oil Pressure gauge, and I always have about 20-25 at idle when warm. I think you're good on that aspect. And your higher pressure also falls in range.


:thumbup:

Ya my edition is definitely older than that. Wish I had been using yours before I replaced the oil pump :banghead:

Oh well, I'll order the tensioner on Wed and keep my fingers crossed the journals don't look too worn when I pull out the intake cam :laugh:


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## Durbo20vT (Apr 30, 2006)

any luck with settling the noise issue? curious on the fix...


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## machx0r (Feb 25, 2001)

Durbo20vT said:


> any luck with settling the noise issue? curious on the fix...


Just received the new tensioner last night. Need to pickup a seal on my way home and then I'll swap it out tonight or tomorrow. I'll post back with how it goes.


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## Durbo20vT (Apr 30, 2006)

machx0r said:


> Just received the new tensioner last night. Need to pickup a seal on my way home and then I'll swap it out tonight or tomorrow. I'll post back with how it goes.


cool good luck with it:thumbup: eager to hear the outcome...


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## machx0r (Feb 25, 2001)

So I used this guide http://www.passatworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=215732 and replaced the tensioner today. Wasn't that hard, maybe two hours of slow fumbling. Definitely took two people (removing the tensioner and intake cam from the chain). Also it was easier to remove the intake cam from the chain and then remove/install the tensioner rather than leaving it in place like the author of the guide seemed to suggest.

The cam journals looked pretty good underneath (sorry no pics) but one of the cam bearing caps did have a metal shaving in the oil feed hole. No compressor so I couldn't blow them out more to see if there were other shavings.

*Long story short my car no longer sounds like a diesel tractor after replacing the tensioner. *

Still dealing with low oil pressure at low rpms with an occasional warning light/beep. Usually when I'm in slow moving traffic on the freeway/on-ramp or sitting at a red light. Doesn't happen as much since I switched from the cheap 5W-30 dyno oil I was using while flushing to 5W-40 Castrol Syntec. 

I've already replaced the oil pump/pickup so I figure I'll just assume it's engine/bearing wear and switch to 5W-50 and keep my fingers crossed :laugh:

Edit: The old cam chain tensioner bottom pusher was physically stuck after I removed the tensioner tool and did not extend until I pushed it in. The solenoid on the old tensioner was also a little loose. Overall the new tensioner was MUCH firmer than my old one when I manually compressed it.

Oh and this http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...t-able-to-align.-What-should-I-be-looking-for :banghead:


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## jaypee77 (Jan 3, 2002)

*Congrats*

Nice! This is good information. I have this same problem. Can you tell me what the tool is and where you got it? Thanks.

Jon


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## machx0r (Feb 25, 2001)

jaypee77 said:


> Nice! This is good information. I have this same problem. Can you tell me what the tool is and where you got it? Thanks.
> 
> Jon


It was the cam chain tensioner tool, http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Cam_Tensioner_Tool/ES1306818/

If you are buying a new cam chain tensioner then the tool should come already installed on the new unit (like in this picture: http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Cam_Tensioner_Tool/ES2063671/) and you don't need to purchase one separately.


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## jaypee77 (Jan 3, 2002)

*Thanks.*

Cool, thanks. Did you need the sealant, any gaskets, etc.? Thanks again.

Jon


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## machx0r (Feb 25, 2001)

jaypee77 said:


> Cool, thanks. Did you need the sealant, any gaskets, etc.? Thanks again.
> 
> Jon


The walk-through linked above had a detailed list of everything needed to perform the install. Verify part numbers with your specific vehicle. And as far as the flange sealant goes I used Permatex Ultra Black rather than spending $70+ or the official VW sealant recommended.


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## jrod_r1 (Sep 27, 2005)

Mine just threw the P0012 code and I brought it the the local shop for confirmation. They told me it was the cam chain tensioner and quoted me $750.00 for the part and a total of like $1,100.00 for the tensioner/solenoid, gaskets and labor. This seems a little steep and I am thinking of just doing it myself. the tensioner from ECS seems really cheap, anyonwe know why? 

Also, do you think that this could be done with (1) person or do I need a helper? 

The car only has 82,000 on it, 2001 Jetts 1.8T.


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## machx0r (Feb 25, 2001)

Local VW dealer quoted me ~$475 for the OEM tensioner but I ended up getting one from MJM for $275. Was going to get the ECS one but they were out of stock. Maybe the ECS one is made in China. In any case you can do this much cheaper yourself if you feel capable (see the DIY above). 

You can probably do it with only one person but having a helper makes it much easier to get the tensioner out. When I did it my dad helped pull out the intake cam while I lifted the tensioner so we could get enough slack in the chain to remove the cam. At the bare minimum a non-mechanical helper (ie: girlfriend/wife ) is great for confirming the marks you'll make on the cams and that they line up when you're done. 

Here's roughly what I spent: 

- $275 cam chain tensioner from MJM 
- $50 valve cover gasket from stealership 
- $5 cam chain tensioner gasket from stealership 
- $5 T30 torx socket from AutoZone (or Kragen maybe) 
- $5 Permatex Ultra Black sealant from AutoZone (or Kragen maybe) 
- $2 White Out from the grocery store 

Total: $342 

You could probably save more if you can find the gaskets at AutoZone or even online (ECS probably has them, not sure about MJM)


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## jrod_r1 (Sep 27, 2005)

Thanks for the fast reply. 
I see a lot on the tex about "sludge" buildup in the oil pans on these cars. 
I thought maybe I could do that and clean the pickup while I'm at it. It's just such a pain to get under the car, evne fo rthe jack! 

I came from the MKII world so it is a little bit of a change ....


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## jaypee77 (Jan 3, 2002)

*Which side of engine?*

The cam chain is on the driver's side of the 1.8T, is it not? The noise I have on my GTI is from the passenger side, near the timing belt. Also, it occurs at only a narrow RPM range as I have read about the cam chain problem, but even when the engine is cold. Is the cam chain noise only after warm up? 

Thanks. I've been driving it for months with the noise. I hope I am not doomed. It would be an excuse to get a new GTI though.  

Jon


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## machx0r (Feb 25, 2001)

Cam chain tensioner is on the opposite side of the engine as the timing belt (ie: driver's side on transverse engines). 

In my case the noise was only at lower rpms (below ~2.5K rpms) when the oil pressure was lower. The noise got louder as the engine warmed up (since the hotter oil == lower oil pressure). Sometimes I wouldn't hear the noise at all when I first started the car on a cold (southern California) morning. 

I drove with this noise (progressively getting louder/worse) for at least a year (if not more) and things turned out ok for me :laugh:


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## jaypee77 (Jan 3, 2002)

*Thanks*

Thanks for the info. I guess I'll get a stethoscope and figure out which side once and for all. Every other symptom sounds familiar. 

Jon


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## machx0r (Feb 25, 2001)

Just following up that the low oil pressure is no longer an issue after replacing the tensioner as well. Still running Syntec 5W-40 and my gauge is consistently reading 25+ PSI at hot idle. I can only assume that the old tensioner was not holding pressure and letting the overall pressure drop just enough to trip the warning light at idle.


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## MarkusWolf (Dec 10, 2001)

> Just following up that the low oil pressure is no longer an issue after replacing the tensioner as well. Still running Syntec 5W-40 and my gauge is consistently reading 25+ PSI at hot idle. I can only assume that the* old tensioner was not holding pressure and letting the overall pressure drop just enough to trip the warning light at idle.*


That is interesting, I do NOT have a warning light, although some CEL came on about 2 or 3 years ago. CEL said something... "retarded timing", but I never actually knew the exact code. 

Till this day, no CEL re: retarded timing, however, I do have that diesel noise. I am starting to wonder if i do NOT have a warning light, it may just be my oil pick up tube because the first (approx) 20K miles (or 2 years or was it 3?) on my car was through VW FREE maintenance. I know they used regular oil at that time before recommending synthetic (VW bishes :banghead. 

I have already tried seaform. Haven't tried Auto RX yet.

May just do the oil tube (cheaper) first then go from there. I do't want to spend the $275 plus labor if I dont have to.

Thanks for the info on the thread and keeping us posted!


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## jdub20 (Oct 21, 2010)

*finally*

i've had the exact same issue on my '01 gti for a couple of years now and nobody could help. thx for posting just a helpful thread. :thumbup: 

i'm going to replace the cam chain tensioner and see if my noise finally stops too.


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## MarkusWolf (Dec 10, 2001)

A little advice please:

My car sounds like a diesel at idle when the engine is hot/operating temp. I do NOT have any codes.

I seafoamed the car twice. Once last year and once a month ago.

I replaced the oil pick up tube. The tube was "ok" at the mesh and had zero sludge at the tube opening. He also said the pump looks clean and the the turbo oil return line is very clean. Say everything looks good.


*So, no codes, seafoamed, replaced oil pick up tube, etc., and the car still sounds like a diesel.*

Try auto RX, pay for the tensioner, or just live with the diesel sound (since I have no codes)?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.


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## english8 (Oct 10, 2009)

*Cam noise*

I know it's an old post but did u ever get rid of that tensioner noise on that 1.8t


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## machx0r (Feb 25, 2001)

english8 said:


> I know it's an old post but did u ever get rid of that tensioner noise on that 1.8t


Yup replaced the cam chain tensioner and both the noise and low oil pressure went away.



machx0r said:


> So I used this guide http://www.passatworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=215732 and replaced the tensioner today. Wasn't that hard, maybe two hours of slow fumbling. Definitely took two people (removing the tensioner and intake cam from the chain). Also it was easier to remove the intake cam from the chain and then remove/install the tensioner rather than leaving it in place like the author of the guide seemed to suggest.
> 
> The cam journals looked pretty good underneath (sorry no pics) but one of the cam bearing caps did have a metal shaving in the oil feed hole. No compressor so I couldn't blow them out more to see if there were other shavings.
> 
> ...


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## derbin2005 (Jan 15, 2011)

just came across your post. i changed my cam chain tensioner with the same diesel sound as you describe..... went away immediately! hopefully it fixed your issue as well.


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## superkarl (Dec 18, 2012)

I cant believe this hasnt been mentioned, but there is a valve inside the oil filter housing that regulates oil pressure, and over here in the uk, has known to be the source of low pressure and the warning light.


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## Ddowning (Apr 24, 2014)

*Quick Question...*

So I'm new here and everything I and I saw your post. So your saying that having the wrong oil filter can make the oil pressure low and cause a diesel noise? I've had my oil pump replaced and my pickup tube was fine as we'll but now I just have the noise and if there's away were I don't need to have the tensioner replaced then I'm going to try everything possible to not have to do it.


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## bejammindmb41 (Jun 13, 2014)

Reviving an old thread here.. I have a 2.0fsi, I had same problems. diesel sound on startup. replaced tensioner still had the same problems but now timing was retarded. turned out the phaser gear went bad. just had that replaced no more diesel sound, huge power gain but still low oil pressure and now timing is advanved. cars at the dealership now.


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## maicol1524 (Apr 16, 2015)

bejammindmb41 said:


> Reviving an old thread here.. I have a 2.0fsi, I had same problems. diesel sound on startup. replaced tensioner still had the same problems but now timing was retarded. turned out the phaser gear went bad. just had that replaced no more diesel sound, huge power gain but still low oil pressure and now timing is advanved. cars at the dealership now.



Could you resolved the problem? I'm having the same fail 
Thanks 


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## maicol1524 (Apr 16, 2015)

machx0r said:


> Just following up that the low oil pressure is no longer an issue after replacing the tensioner as well. Still running Syntec 5W-40 and my gauge is consistently reading 25+ PSI at hot idle. I can only assume that the old tensioner was not holding pressure and letting the overall pressure drop just enough to trip the warning light at idle.


Could you resolved the problem? I'm having the same fail 
Thanks 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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