# Stealth installation of radar detector in overhead console (MKV)



## shuko (Jul 24, 2007)

While fixing the sunglasses holder on my newly purchased Tiguan, I decided to tackle a project I had wanted to do for a long time: Integrate my Escort Passport 8500 radar detector into the overhead console!
Before you try it yourself, things to consider:
-You'll have to dismantle and modify the detector. Doing so may very well have negative effects on the sensitivity and function of the unit. It is, after all, a very sensitive piece of high frequency electronic equipment.
-Placement is less than optimal, and may very well result in decreased sensitivity.
-There is no "switched power" up there, so you'll either have to tie into the lighting circuit and add a switch or run yourself a power cable from the console.
-There's more to it, like not being able to access the settings buttons, but it should be pretty obvious. 
Regardless, I'm happy with the outcome.
I removed the overhead console, pretty straightforward process.








No sunroof, so all that plastic in the middle can be removed. Plus, there is no metal from here to out the window, so nothing to block the radar.








The passport detector. With the casing it's too big to fit.








So a few screws and a voided warranty later, radar detector guts:








I removed the front trim plastic to give me a better shot at the pieces to cut.








Test fit 1, after cutting quite a bit with a dremel tool. I found a circular cutter works best. Be ready to deal with plastic dust!:








Test fit 2, after cutting into the front chamber where the map lights are. Perfect! The metallized coating on the map light reflector plastic is conductive, so it will short any eletronics directly touching it. Be careful!








Tight fit, but it works! Note the three metal bars above the front of the detector. They have 12VDC and ground on them, so be very careful not to short them!!








Front. This will be covered by the trim piece. Compare with the picture at the beginning to see how much material I removed.








I want to move the display somewhere I can see it, so I desolder the pins with desoldering braid:








I soldered one side of a ribbon cable to the board:








And the other side of the cable to the corresponding pins. (the red stuff is an insulating varnish I applied, remember metallized coating shorts things)








No sweat!








I hacked up the remote silence / power plug to just the buttons and control board. I had to test fit, cut a little, repeat to get everything to fit perfectly when all assembled.








I drilled 3 holes for the button and two lights, and stick the trim sticker on the front side. I soldered the wires from the control to the detector and the 12V lighting power bits in the console. Notice where I located the display. I meant to install it on the other side, but got mixed up while working. Oh well, works fine anyway.








Installed in the car:
















Barely noticeable, and wayyy better than just sticking it in the window.


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## jeosh (Feb 20, 2009)

*Re: Stealth installation of radar detector in overhead console (shuko)*

its like something off james bond! haha


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## thndr8 (May 9, 2005)

How do the front and rear sensors work? I don't see how you'd have front and rear protection. Everything looks covered up.


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## CoopaCoopaCoopa (Apr 25, 2009)

That is super-duper stealthy haha. Think the fact that its stuffed away will effect its effeciency at all?


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## bc2240 (Jul 24, 2008)

*Re: (thndr8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *thndr8* »_How do the front and rear sensors work? I don't see how you'd have front and rear protection. Everything looks covered up.


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## KeiCar (Jul 23, 2002)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *thndr8* »_How do the front and rear sensors work? I don't see how you'd have front and rear protection. Everything looks covered up.


X2
Nice job and all. I love dremel experiments! I could of done the same up until the soldering part. That takes some skill, good work!
The only thing I don't like is the on/off switch. Couldn't you of found a smaller, less obtrusive switch, or mounted it under the dash somewhere out of site?


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## shimino (Jun 13, 2008)

Damn N!!.... U r crazy!!! Bad ass job!!


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## radarrob (Jul 29, 2007)

*Re: (shimino)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Afgandelight (Jun 24, 2009)

*Re: (radarrob)*

Original http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Great job!


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## shuko (Jul 24, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (JDMpire)*

In response to questions about sensitivity:
Laser detection (of course) is completely blind. Having gotten 3 laser tickets here in Houston while using the detector, I have concluded that laser detection is worthless anyway.








Radar detection is notably less sensitive than it was before. This is partly due to the proximity of the detector to the roof of the car, and partly due to the slight upward angle that the unit now sits so it's looking "up." It tends to detect very far away things earlier, but nearby things don't get the same signal strength that they did before. This is favorable though, because I only really pay attention to the thing when driving on the highway. I don't think that putting it behind the headliner material or plastic bits has much to do with it. Radar penetrates plastic just like it does glass, so it shouldn't matter. There's some absorption, I'm sure, but not a significant amount. 
The power source/switch is definitely a shortcoming. It's big and ugly, but was all I had laying around at the time. I plan to "re-do" that part and omit the switch entirely.







I used power from the lighting circuit. It works, but when the car turns the lights on (like when I take the key out of the ignition, or hit the unlock button on the remote, or open the doors) the power is cut from the "always on" feed. Unfortunately this causes me to forget to turn it off when I leave the car.
I'm trying to avoid pulling a switched power lead up through the headliner, so I'm planning on building a simple circuit that looks at line voltage and only turns on when the car is running. (The alternator runs the electrical system at 13 some odd volts, so I'll use a comparator to kick on a relay when the voltage is above 12.xx) If this actually works, I will probably end up building kits to sell.








Thanks for the comments / questions. If ya'll have any other ideas I'd love to hear them. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## GTIkid92 (Aug 4, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (shuko)*

so slick and so clean such a good job!


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