# Pulling a longitudinal engine (and other Q’s)



## the vegenator (Dec 9, 2010)

First time quantum owner, long time admirer. Spent some time removing accessories and unhooking everything. A few head scratching moments. I have a Bentley on order but I was hoping y’all could help me out with some things. 

First question - how does the ac compressor unbolt? Do I have to unbolt the whole mounting bracket?

Second q - How do you get this thing out with the trans hooked on? The tie rods are preventing it from lifting up on the back side, and the condenser is restricting movement on the front. I plan to keep ac, but I suppose I can just pull the condenser for now so it gives a little more space to get the engine out. 

Now, about these pulleys —- the compressor, crank, and WP pulleys are all lacking any kind of tensioners. I’ve read about this before but don’t remember what the story is. Is there a way to adjust these? Or do I just have to unbolt the pulleys??



















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## B1-16V (Aug 5, 2002)

Some of your pulleys will have stacked shim plates that are removed or added for belt tension. 
I like to remove the engine like the factory does, from underneath. 
But that has its own challenges.


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## Willi-The-Red13 (Nov 12, 2011)

the vegenator said:


> First time quantum owner, long time admirer. Spent some time removing accessories and unhooking everything. A few head scratching moments. I have a Bentley on order but I was hoping y’all could help me out with some things.
> 
> First question - how does the ac compressor unbolt? Do I have to unbolt the whole mounting bracket?
> 
> ...


Oo FrankenWagen I removed everything from the crankshaft but the first pulley (Water pump) also had to twist shove to get it in or out


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## Willi-The-Red13 (Nov 12, 2011)

Willi-The-Red13 said:


> Oo FrankenWagen I removed everything from the crankshaft but the first pulley (Water pump) also had to twist shove to get it in or out


Also removed radiator & the A?C condenser unitfor room


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## the vegenator (Dec 9, 2010)

I’ll look into hoisting my car up with the chain fall and lowering it… also tempted to remove the trans but that seems like a nightmare given spatial constraints. 

Having a hard time picturing how shimming a pulley forward will increase tension, but I’ll learn a lot more when the Bentley manual shows up In a few days. 


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## QuantumMechanic (Mar 1, 2015)

Transmission is actually easier than in a transverse. You don't have to clock it to get the drive flange past the flywheel...I don't want to think about how many times I had to pull and reinstall them on my project cars... 

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## B1-16V (Aug 5, 2002)

This is how I put the engine IN my car. Maybe this will help.
Dasher 16V build | VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum


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## Willi-The-Red13 (Nov 12, 2011)

the vegenator said:


> I’ll look into hoisting my car up with the chain fall and lowering it… also tempted to remove the trans but that seems like a nightmare given spatial constraints.
> 
> Having a hard time picturing how shimming a pulley forward will increase tension, but I’ll learn a lot more when the Bentley manual shows up In a few days.
> 
> ...


If you have the room dropping the engine & transmission bolted together is faster & easier that trying to get it out through the top. Biggest problem with doing that is you drop the U shaped rear engine & transmission sub frame with the engine & trans bolted to it. The lower control arms bolt to it so you can't move your car around on its 4 wheels while the sub frame is out & you have to put jack stands in to support the front end.


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## the vegenator (Dec 9, 2010)

I’m very close to wrapping up my engine install. Built up a “new” motor using an NA long block I rebuilt a few years ago. MLS head gasket, ARP head studs. Everything reattached and dropped in. I’m not going nuts on it because I just want to get it together assuming that the block was the only previous issue. 

I have a couple questions though… info on the quantum seems to be lacking out on the WWW. And the Bentley is also lacking much info for the quantum (compared to the mk2). 

- I failed to drain/fill the gear box when it was out so no I need to do that with it in. No telling how old the gear oil is. I see the drain plug but wasn’t sure where to fill. Any tips?

- I was also scratching my head on where the speedo cable goes. There’s a spot on the top of the trans between the axle flanges but it has a black cap that fits into the hole. 

- The accelerator cable came off the pedal because the bushing disintegrated. and when I pulled the foam/pressed board lower dash cover a weighted thing fell down that looks like it might be for the pedal. Anyone have experience with how the cable links up to the pedal? I put a bushing off my mk2 pedal cluster on it and didn’t do anything with the pot metal weighted piece. The IP lever has full travel, but the pedal itself does NOT go to the button on the floor. 

- the shifter linkage bushings are mostly toast. Barring some NOS bushing kit sitting on a shelf somewhere, I’m curious if anyone knows of similar kits or bushings that will work with the quantum. 

Thanks!












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## the vegenator (Dec 9, 2010)

Oh also I thank you all for the help and advice on how to pull the engine out. Ended up dropping the suspension and lowering the engine and trans onto a furniture dolly. 

I read in the Bentley that says you’re supposed to be able to pull the engine and trans up and out with the hood still on. I don’t believe that one but. Hahah


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## Willi-The-Red13 (Nov 12, 2011)

the vegenator said:


> Oh also I thank you all for the help and advice on how to pull the engine out. Ended up dropping the suspension and lowering the engine and trans onto a furniture dolly.
> 
> I read in the Bentley that says you’re supposed to be able to pull the engine and trans up and out with the hood still on. I don’t believe that one but. Hahah
> 
> ...


Welcome to the "Quantum Club" , if you look at my FrankenWagen thread you'll see my project. What year is yours?


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## the vegenator (Dec 9, 2010)

Hi! I’ll take a look. Mine is an 84. 


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## Willi-The-Red13 (Nov 12, 2011)

Same as mine complete with Whurlitzer Irgan HVAC controls. WHy VW went with that when they had very workable cable operated ones IDK.


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## the vegenator (Dec 9, 2010)

Ooo I’m not familiar but I suppose I’ll soon find out. 

I bought a couple shifter bushings on eBay this morning. Lucky to find those. One of the links was on a dasher post in this forum. 

Still unsure how to replace the gear oil. Got any tips? Speedo hole? Is that what the black cap is covering on the above pic?


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## B1-16V (Aug 5, 2002)

Sorry for the crude phot edit, best I could do in a hurry.
When you remove that fill insert, you should feel fluid just at that level. Fill on level ground until the fluid just starts to come out.
If you don't have that special 17mm Allen head tool, you can take an extra lug bolt and put a nut on it super tight, then use that as a tool.


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## the vegenator (Dec 9, 2010)

Oh hell yeah- thanks so much! Now that everything is in the car I’m just having a hard time figuring out the trans. That markup makes all the difference. 

Im very familiar with the transverse 020 gear boxes but this was just a different ball game. I think I got it now. 


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## the vegenator (Dec 9, 2010)

Ok, here’s that part in question that fell from the pedal cluster area. Anyone know what this part is!

If I had to posit a guess, It looks like it would have had a bushing on it that connects to the accelerator cable, and then this small post would fit into the pedal bushing. Like, this is a weighted connector (since the quantum pedal doesn’t have a weight). Am I wrong? The only etka illustration i saw doesn’t show anything like it. 











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## QuantumMechanic (Mar 1, 2015)

Clutch cable bushings bracket.... you probably have a couple round orange or grey foam looking things that are rooted around the edges and middle lying on the floorboard...

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## QuantumMechanic (Mar 1, 2015)

Damnit... accelerator, not clutch... you need 2

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## QuantumMechanic (Mar 1, 2015)

One fits in the hole in the top of the pedal and that pin on the bracket fits inside it, other one for the cable end. 

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## the vegenator (Dec 9, 2010)

Awesome. That’s what I assumed, but neither the Bentley or the etka illustrate the part. 

I pulled a bushing off my old mk2 pedal cluster. Will grab another. I don’t understand why they ever used foam bushings. 


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## QuantumMechanic (Mar 1, 2015)

Yeah, I think that part was an afterthought as the single bushing in the pedal would wear out quickly and the double bushing setup allowed more movement and less wear at the bind points. But it's still a bad setup. 

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## Willi-The-Red13 (Nov 12, 2011)

the vegenator said:


> Awesome. That’s what I assumed, but neither the Bentley or the etka illustrate the part.
> 
> I pulled a bushing off my old mk2 pedal cluster. Will grab another. I don’t understand why they ever used foam bushings.
> 
> ...


The later bushings I've bought were solid but not VW


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## the vegenator (Dec 9, 2010)

Regarding pedal bushings, a friend forwarded this German blog post which talks about the linkage and bushings. 

 https://ost-blog.passat32.de/2018/08/17/er-haengt-wieder-am-gas/

Otherwise, I’ve been getting everything else hooked up and trying to get this thing started. 

Emptied the fuel out of the tank and wiped out what I could. Cleaned off the pickup screen. Put new fuel in and got fuel up to the IP. Now I’m dealing with a dry injection pump which really doesn’t want to pump fuel despite bleeding it out. I’m going to try gravity feeding it tomorrow. And I’ll try taking the return banjo off to bleed without that restrictor in the way. 

Really want to get this thing going! 


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## C101horse (Feb 21, 2021)

the vegenator said:


> Regarding pedal bushings, a friend forwarded this German blog post which talks about the linkage and bushings.
> 
> Er hängt wieder am Gas
> 
> ...


the injection pump doesnt want to pump because the vanes that do the pumping are a tad stuck. that'd be my guess anyway. instead of trying to start it with the key try pulling it behind another car to get a little more speed on the pump, might get the vanes unstuck


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## the vegenator (Dec 9, 2010)

I ended up gravity feeding the pump with diesel purge (then diesel) and tapped on it while cranking. Finally got some wetness around two of the injectors. Decided I would tighten all the lines down and give it a go. BOOM. Fired right up. And it sounds great! 

One question about the AirResearch turbo on this thing — is it an especially flashy turbo? Does it whistle and whine? I’ve never had a td and was half expecting to hear the turbo so it’s thing but I didn’t get that satisfaction with some revs. Just curious! 











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## QuantumMechanic (Mar 1, 2015)

You can hear it, but you're not going to impress anyone. These engines are actually pretty solid and get you where you're going in decent time, but they are not Cats or Cummins. They are old school indirect injection and they are just little workhorses. TDI swaps are pretty easy nowadays and that's where you could really see huge improvements. I am longing for my old little 84 td wagon. I loved that car. My first VW. 
If I could have found one cheap enough, I would have grabbed an 01E 6spd from a TDI and done the tdi swap in my QSW, but it's getting a 1.8t gas instead. And I'll be selling it when it's done. Gotta thin out the herd and make some cash. 

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## the vegenator (Dec 9, 2010)

I’m long familiar with the engine. Been driving 1.6 NAs since 2003. I actually rebuilt this block ten years ago so I’m happy to see it in a different car. 

I did just hook up a boost gauge to the IP boost line. Revved it a bit and only got some slight vacuum. I know it should be under load to perform properly, so I’m hoping it gets whirring this week. 

I would’ve swapped for something with more power, but I’m doing that with my mk2 jetta wagon build. I wanted to stick with 1.6 for this quantum, esp since I had some engines kicking around. 


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## QuantumMechanic (Mar 1, 2015)

Nice. You grafting a fox wagon or Q wagon onto that mk? Or building from scratch? You ever see the El Quantumino?

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## the vegenator (Dec 9, 2010)

I grafted a golf tail end. With some nice little quarter windows in the back which I kinda love. Gonna jump back into it very soon! I have a build in the mk2 section I believe. 











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## QuantumMechanic (Mar 1, 2015)

Damn. Skills like that I do not have. Nice job!

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## the vegenator (Dec 9, 2010)

Thanks! It’s been a long journey. I switched to the quantum because I needed some instant (2months) gratification. I have a long way to go with this mk2. 

I have another seemingly simple quantum question - what head lights do I need? Are they all four the same or two lows and two highs? They seem easy to get but I just can’t figure out which ones to get/how many. 

And if there are upgrades then what do you recommend?


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## QuantumMechanic (Mar 1, 2015)

I don't think I have any more euro or santana lights mucking around, but I'll check. Easiest is to just get the later 86-88 lights and grill. They're a big upgrade and you can sell the 4 light setup and turnd and grill overseas for bucks. 

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## the vegenator (Dec 9, 2010)

Oh I meant specifically which sealed beam lamps would I need for the quad light setup?

*Edit: Figured out that two low beam and two high beam lights are needed to make a set. H4651 and H4656*

In the long run I’d love to upgrade to the Santana/euro setup, but I got the impression that I would need the whole front end, bumper included, since the turn signal markers are in the bumper with those.

What is required to make the swap anyway?


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## the vegenator (Dec 9, 2010)

And actually, if anyone has a headlight frame they would sell, let me know! I know of one two hours from here but I don’t have the time for that kind of trip. 











Also looking fit a DS signal lens 











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## 32B (Aug 29, 2019)

Just a tip, when filling your transmission with oil put your car on an angle so the rear is higher than the front. Make sure you drain all of the oil from tans. And fill it with 80w90 mineral 2liters. (if its a 5 speed)

And could you post more pics of your quantum, interesting to see US version of eu passat


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## the vegenator (Dec 9, 2010)

Good tips! I will be filling it tomorrow or Friday. 

So, I had a hard time finding GL-4 gear oil locally. I ended up buying Redline MTL, which seems like the preferred and recommended oil for 020 transmissions, which I assumed would be the same for this. This oil is rated at 70w80 though - will this transmission work okay with this? I didn’t see any other weights for MTL. 

Here are some photos I took last summer. I am fixing up the front end this week. Trim components, turn signal lenses, headlights, etc. 





























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## 32B (Aug 29, 2019)

the vegenator said:


> Good tips! I will be filling it tomorrow or Friday.
> 
> So, I had a hard time finding GL-4 gear oil locally. I ended up buying Redline MTL, which seems like the preferred and recommended oil for 020 transmissions, which I assumed would be the same for this. This oil is rated at 70w80 though - will this transmission work okay with this? I didn’t see any other weights for MTL.
> 
> ...


Nice, im jealous of your electronic equipment... Yeah I changed my oil first time and poured in 75w90 synt and the transmission was humming like crazy, also bearings were fu after a year. Didn't know any better. And all that time I had the information in the cars original book, although it was in german. Now i installed a second trans and poured in the factory recommended trans 80w90 mineral no problems. Passat b2 and audi 80 b2 (platform on which passat is made) are know for having crappy transmissions compared to audi 80 b3, my recommendation is to stick with the factory spec oil.


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## 32B (Aug 29, 2019)

Keep the lights and grill us spec, but switch to eu spec bumpers (85 and up facelift ones) would look so sick.


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## the vegenator (Dec 9, 2010)

I got the car running and on the road after all my shifter bushings came in. Last night I got the remaining trim and light components on.

Unbelievably, I pulled the turn signal bezels from a junkyard last year. The passenger side lens was good, but the driver side had crumbled. A nice man I met through Instagram sent me the driver side lens, As well as a from headlight retainer I was missing. I also pulled the hood Trim components from the junkyard car. Not the best looking variety, and it needs to be cleaned up, but it’s good to see it all back to stock.



















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## QuantumMechanic (Mar 1, 2015)

Those sealed beam lights are horrible. You should at least get some LED lights that fit in there. The light output makes those cars look like they need a new alternator all the time. 
But congrats! I love seeing another Q on the road!

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## 32B (Aug 29, 2019)

Nice man, you are missing wiper bolt covers (plastic caps). Find ones from mk2 golf probably also mk1 will fit. If youre gonna keep that bumper, heat gun over it and apply black shoe paste works great and lasts long (mine are 2 years and counting didnt fade). Also i see your sun visor carriers are probably broken mk2 golf/jetta fit.


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## the vegenator (Dec 9, 2010)

So, the starter gets the car going but once the engine is hot it just doesn’t crank fast enough to start it. Interstate battery is charged up. All ground points connected and all positive and negative connections are clean. I don’t think the belts are TOO tight (one of the troubleshooting tips in the Bentley). But I do know the compression on this diesel motor is pretty damn good, so it makes sense that once it’s warmed up the original starter just gets lazy. 

I have a new starter from partsplace showing up any minute. I’m going to also replace the positive wire with new, and maybe throw an extra ground strap in. 

Main issue is getting the old one out. They really don’t make it easy on this longitudinal motor, but I’m working on removing that mount bracket so I can get to it. Got my engine hoist pulling the motor up so I can get that bracket off. Anyone got any tips on all that? 

—-

Another question for y’all - I’m adding egt, boost, and oil pressure gauges. But anyone have any solutions on where to mount them? I’m leaving them resting in the console for now. I kind of don’t want to remove the ash tray and lighter since everything looks good as stock. But that may be the route I take. 

——

Regarding the aesthetic stuff- 
Yeah I noticed the wiper covers but didn’t realize the mk2 covers would fit. 

I got some new halogen sealed beam headlights off rock auto because I wasn’t sure what decent led options existed. Also picked up all four sets of headlight adjusters off aliexpress. Came a week later somehow. Going to put all that in today. 

And yes- I still need to refresh the bumpers. Going to wash/degrease, heat gun, then Adam’s VRT polish. Also getting a new set of chrome trim for the bumpers. 

I’m buying new window scraper seals from Germany. And Someone tipped me off to Autozone chrome tape being a good replacement for the window surround chrome. Good option for this car. 

I’ll get ‘er lookin decent before long. 


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## Willi-The-Red13 (Nov 12, 2011)

the vegenator said:


> So, the starter gets the car going but once the engine is hot it just doesn’t crank fast enough to start it. Interstate battery is charged up. All ground points connected and all positive and negative connections are clean. I don’t think the belts are TOO tight (one of the troubleshooting tips in the Bentley). But I do know the compression on this diesel motor is pretty damn good, so it makes sense that once it’s warmed up the original starter just gets lazy.
> 
> I have a new starter from partsplace showing up any minute. I’m going to also replace the positive wire with new, and maybe throw an extra ground strap in.
> 
> ...


Starter replacement on a Turbo Diesel in the Quantum ets is a "Gold Plated B-tch" if it has A?C , it's easier to do if you can swing the A/C compressor out of the way it's way easier. Been there Done that Got the Stupid Tshirt.


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## 32B (Aug 29, 2019)

As for the boost gauge, just use a plastic T and connect it to that hose that goes from intake to the Bosch pump, run the hose through "choke" hole in the firewall. I've mounted mine on the dash with doublesided tape for plastic trim as I dont want to drill the dash. I've placed it above the vent hole for the driver side window. And EGT gauge same with tape under the ignition on that ridge of the dashboard. I didn't go with an oil pressure gauge, seems a bit too much for me. I just made sure that the oil pump is good (installed a bigger new one), and checked oil pressure sensors on the back of the head for low pressure low rpm, and oil pressure sensor on the oil filter housing for high pressure/rpm it even buzzes if you go above 2.5 3k rpm with low oil pressure.
Starter replacement didn't seem that bad for me, had to remove the exhaust manifold for easier access. But you do have A/C i assume, so good luck.

If the starter on the car is an original one, and only thing wrong with it are brushes i would just replace them as the original build quality is way better than anything else.


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## the vegenator (Dec 9, 2010)

I WANT MY SHIRT. That’s the prize for changing this starter right? 

3pm to 1 am with a dinner break of falafel. I did do a couple other things, but most of my time was spent removing and reinstalling the motor mount and turbo/manifold. Having that stuff out of the way gave me all the room in the world. 

Had a brief snafu with the starter bushing showing up smashed, but I found a new one in town. 

New Starter performs beautifully. I have many smashed knuckles to show for it. 

Look at the difference though:











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## the vegenator (Dec 9, 2010)

32B said:


> As for the boost gauge, just use a plastic T and connect it to that hose that goes from intake to the Bosch pump, run the hose through "choke" hole in the firewall. I've mounted mine on the dash with doublesided tape for plastic trim as I dont want to drill the dash. I've placed it above the vent hole for the driver side window. And EGT gauge same with tape under the ignition on that ridge of the dashboard. I didn't go with an oil pressure gauge, seems a bit too much for me. I just made sure that the oil pump is good (installed a bigger new one), and checked oil pressure sensors on the back of the head for low pressure low rpm, and oil pressure sensor on the oil filter housing for high pressure/rpm it even buzzes if you go above 2.5 3k rpm with low oil pressure.
> Starter replacement didn't seem that bad for me, had to remove the exhaust manifold for easier access. But you do have A/C i assume, so good luck.
> 
> If the starter on the car is an original one, and only thing wrong with it are brushes i would just replace them as the original build quality is way better than anything else.


I have the gauges sitting in the console for now but I do like the idea of keeping them in plain site, especially for the egt gauge- primarily trying not to blow up the NA engine with the turbo add ons and I’m already getting to 1100 degrees at full throttle and load in third gear. I’ve heard 1200 is the cutoff. 

So yeah, maybe routing on the dash would be a better idea. Just doesn’t seem as appealing. 

The only reason I was worried about oil pressure is because when this engine was on my jetta I upgraded the alternator to one that had a W Terminal hook up. I hooked the blue wire up and started getting oil pressure buzzing. So naturally I just unplugged it and kept driving it. I think I may have had the wrong sensors in place. But either way I’ve had no oil pressure lights or buzzers on since starting and testing out the quantum. 

The new starter is a dream. Starts instantly hot or cold. Well, maybe not cold - there’s a leak on the IP at the cold start valve that I need to address. I may send the pump to Advance Diesel in Huntsville and throw on my old NA pump for now. I would reseal the pump myself but I need to take some things off my plate. 


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## the vegenator (Dec 9, 2010)

Isn’t she lovely?











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## 32B (Aug 29, 2019)

So we are the same with having turboed our NAs. For na its 650 to 700 C idk what in farenh..

If its buzzing that means that the high oil pressure sensor wire is not getting ground (probably a dead sensor). Try just grounding the wire to the engine and revving above 1800rpm, if everything is okay its most likely a dead sensor(white), if still buzzes wire is messed up somewhere.





Oil Pressure Warning System (Idiot Light/Buzzer) Explained | Gowesty







www.gowesty.com





From my research:

Injectors NA 135bar TD 155bar
Compression 25bar or more
EGT max NA 650-700C TD 820-850C
Turbo pressures KKK K24/T3 max 1.5 bar with ic, without ic 1bar max.


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## Willi-The-Red13 (Nov 12, 2011)

Vince Waldon has a good article about troubleshooting the dynamic oil pressure warning system HOWTO: Diagnose the Dynamic Oil Pressure Warning System - VinceWaldon.com


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## the vegenator (Dec 9, 2010)

I just got back from a trip to Mk2 Mayday. 250 miles in total this weekend and the quantum was a dream to drive. 

I ended up throwing my NA pump on while I address my TD pump leaks. With the TD pump I was easily getting 1200 degrees on the EGT in second or third gear at full boost. With the NA pump I have hit 1000 at full blast. 

I also got my tach working by soldering some wires where a mouse had chewed up the ribbon on the back of the tach. It is VERY cool to have rpms on a diesel vw. 











One thing I also found while going up a long steep mountain hill on the way there was the oil buzzer and warning light. I pulled over and shut off the car. Started back up and kept going. I got the buzzer a couple times in similar scenarios on the way back. High rpms. Steep hills. I’m going to install new oil pressure sensors and also put in my vdo gauge. Fitting it under the turbo oil feed line will be a challenge. But the gauge is the only sure fire way to know what’s going on. 

Here’s a shot of a fully loaded up wagon at the campground. 











I also put new chrome on the bumper and refreshed the vinyl with heat and polish. Looking fresh. 











….especially compared to before:











Otherwise, I also just learned that this car came with power locks. I have no idea how they work, but the vacuum lines going Into the door was my first tip off. Anyone got any tips on how to get it working? And how the heck DOES it work??


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## B1-16V (Aug 5, 2002)

The bumpers and new chrome look amazing!


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## the vegenator (Dec 9, 2010)

Hey folks - I have a parts request! Anyone have any quantum crossbars? I need the two slightly shorter upper bars.

And I also have a few questions about the HVAC system and I wanted to push the central door lock question again.

How does the factory central locking system work? I know there is a pump. And there are vacuum lines going into the doors. So, how do are they triggered? Unlocking the driver's door? 

On the HVAC - I'm a little unsure on how the system works compared to my MK2. I know there's a heater control valve instead of a diverter flap. I also know theres a vacuum system on the hvac but I'm not really sure how it controls everything. Forgive me if there are other threads but I didn't find much when I looked. Main issue is the controls don't properly divert air where it belongs. Would love to work that out as it gets colder out.


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