# Rear trailing arm bushing location



## max13b2 (Jul 24, 2007)

I'm wondering if these bushings #4-rear wishbone front bushing

http://powerflexusa.com/ttmk1typ8n4wd1999-2006.aspx

fit into the rear trailing arm front location and replace the OEM bushings part #1J0505171B shown in #5 on the diagram

http://s1281.photobucket.com/user/max13b2/media/diagram1_zpsc0e2960d.png.html

Also, in order to change out this bushing, do I need to drop the bracket w/ the 4 bolt surrounding it from the frame to gain access to the center bolt and replace it?

This picture in this ebay ad just further confused me. I'm not sure how they mount in place.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MK1-Audi-TT...D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

does anyone have any suggestions or pictures of this area to help me understand what I'm up against. Does the old OEM bushing have to be burned out or popped out or? TIA

Also should I worry about replacing the outer control arm bushings labeled #4 in the diagram (linked below) while I'm in there? How are the OEM bushings removed and do I need to press in new ones?

http://s1281.photobucket.com/user/max13b2/media/diagram2_zps471421cd.png.html?filters[user]=137072836&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0

I am getting a horrible metal on metal rattling coming from the rear suspension on every bump or imperfection in the road, so I figured while I had it apart, I would replace all bushings as well
Sorry for the confusion, if any - car is a '02 quattro


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Correct on the first question. Second, do NOT unbolt the four bolt hole bracket that is bolted to the body or you will need an alignment. Just unbolt the single bolt through the arm. The bearings all press in and out.


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## Peyer Gervase (Sep 26, 2013)

I've been having some severe issues with my rear stepping out under hard cornering at HPDE's. My rear would step out wide and abruptly before my tires even started to complain (Esky RC Hélicoptères).


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## max13b2 (Jul 24, 2007)

http://s1281.photobucket.com/user/max13b2/media/diagram2_zps471421cd.png.html?sort=3&o=0


Anyone know if someone makes a poly bushing for the outer position in the lateral links to trailing arm? Can't seem to find any, only OEM. #4 in the last diagram posted above. If I'm gonna replace all the others with poly, I don't see why I should leave these OEM rubber. Thanks Guys! :thumbup:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Peyer Gervase said:


> I've been having some severe issues with my rear stepping out under hard cornering at HPDE's. My rear would step out wide and abruptly before my tires even started to complain (Esky RC Hélicoptères).


What are your suspension modifications?


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

max13b2 said:


> does anyone have any suggestions or pictures of this area to help me understand what I'm up against. Does the old OEM bushing have to be burned out or popped out or? TIA


Micah, everything was pretty much covered by Adam but the link below on Scott's website show pics of the rear trailing link removed from the mounting brackets. This will help you understand what's involved. The factory trailing link bushings are pressed in/out, while the lateral links bushings are pretty much fused into their housing and need more convincing to come out (burning or drilling).:beer:

http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_182_228&products_id=979


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## max13b2 (Jul 24, 2007)

Big thanks to Adam and Max, now I have a pretty good idea as to what I'm up against, and it seems its gonna take a little more time than I first though. Not a giant deal though.

Now I just need to find those last couple bushings that go between the lateral links and the trailing arm, 2 per side in poly and I should be all set... I checked Whiteline, powerflex and energy suspension, but still cannot seem to locate those.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

max13b2 said:


> Now I just need to find those last couple bushings that go between the lateral links and the trailing arm, 2 per side in poly and I should be all set... I checked Whiteline, powerflex and energy suspension, but still cannot seem to locate those.


I would strongly suggest going OEM at that location. Lots of articulation and high degree of misalignment is required there. A polyurethane bushing at that spot would be too restrictive 
and could cause catastrophic failure (maybe that's why there is no "performance" replacements for those). The original early rose joints were great (I still run them) but caused instant failure when they start to have restricted movement due to lack of articulation and misalignment ability. The later ones are OK with soft bushing that allows a lot of deflection angle and won't cause failure if not serviced/maintained. :beer:


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## max13b2 (Jul 24, 2007)

new OEM it is for them then. Wow, thanks a lot, that makes a lot of sense. 
So should I have any issues or problems with just going poly in the lateral links to chassis bushings, trailing arm front bushings and sway-bar bushings?.  Snap over-steer is not fun!

I would like to start there, then if I find myself doing more auto-crossing, I may move on the stiffening the sub-frame in the rear using the roadster braces. Of course the front end is another story.

I really hope this gets rid of the metal-to-metal noises I hear from the rear suspension...


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## Fight1 (Jul 29, 2013)

*Pics*



20v master said:


> Correct on the first question. Second, do NOT unbolt the four bolt hole bracket that is bolted to the body or you will need an alignment. Just unbolt the single bolt through the arm. The bearings all press in and out.


I don't see how you'll be able to do the swap without dropping the bracket? You can mark the bolt position fairly accuratly on the bracket, but as position of the braket affects rear toe an alignement is a good idea. I just did mine and dropped the bracket, which turned out to be a good idea as they are the most rust prone part of the TT suspension and one of mine had a hole straight true.
The thing to watch out for when doing this is your brake lines, they really need to be disconnected, but the nipple is prone to rust to the line and as such twist it when you undo it.
If that happens stop your work and get drunk. When the hangover clears you'll need to drop exhaust, propshaft, empty the tank and drop it to run new lines. Don't ask how I know..

Edit: I pressed out all the bushings in the rear suspension with hand tools, so it's doable, but not really what I would call fun. No hack saws, burning or hammers.


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## max13b2 (Jul 24, 2007)

Defiantly NOT what I wanted to hear...

Yeah, that was the part I didn't get, was how to get access to the bolt going through the bracket without unbolting it from the chassis.... Ah crap..., this is my only vehicle so I was hoping to do at least 1 side per weekend here soon.

And was hoping to use tools other than a press to replace the bushings. BTW your pics don't work and I would really like to see them to get an idea.


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## Fight1 (Jul 29, 2013)

It's not all bad, and with a bit off preparation, the right tools and a plan you'll be done in a day.

I got a tool like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-P...Parts_Accessories&hash=item35cb6ef19a&vxp=mtr

And have done all my bushes with it.

Prep Friday evening: Soak all bolts and bushes with a penetrating fluid(Also brake line nipples if tackling the forward bush), check that you've got all the bushes that you're going to replace, and new bolts and nuts. Most are listed as replace in Bently.
Mark your new bolts now as to where they go and with torque spec. Saves a bunch of time on assembly.
Work: Jack up rear, support on stands, wheels of.
Disconnect brake caliper and carrier and hang with a cord from damper, do not hang from brake line. 
Disconnect and remove trailing arms, to save time undo subframe bolts that get in the way. 
Press out the outer rose joints(heim joints), then to the bushings on the arms. That is to tackle the hard ones first. ( you can just check the joints for free operation if you don't want to swap. Insert a long bolt and swivel the joint, should be even resistance and no binding)
Clean the holes where the bushes sits with sandpaper or for a fast job, a brake cylinder honeing tool on a drill.
With this done use an extra set of jack stands under the hub, either disconnect the brake lines, or just unclip them as much as you can to give slack. If option two is used, be careful from here on. Unbolt the 4 bolts to the bracket, lower the arm enough for the bracket to clear the body. Hit the bolt going through the bracket with loads of penetrating fluid and take a short break. 
Undo bolt, bracket off, press out bush.
Assembly is the opposite of removal Sunday is then a buffer day, and alignment can be booked for Monday. This is a perfect plan that will disintegrate with the first snapped bolt

Tip, when pressing use a cylinder size one mm smaller than the bush size or you'll have to press it through.

Excuse my spelling and grammar as English is not my first language.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## max13b2 (Jul 24, 2007)

OK, wow, can't ask for a better step by step than that, Thanks man! :thumbup:

Finally broke down and bought a Bentley manual - $61.95 shipped to my door in a hardcover! Should have got this on day 2 of owning my car, even if its just for the torque specs and pictures.

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/s...47496&010=06AudidiTTTTBeyW01331736743#reviews


That tool looks perfect, but a pit pricey, I'm gonna have to improvise a bit with some sockets and a length of all thread, washers and nuts.

What would be the best way to mark the nuts on the bracket, since I'm gonna replace the nuts (and may be the brackets themselves). I'm thinking just snap a picture and hope I get close.


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