# Atlas V6 Oil Change Routine



## cgvalant (Nov 14, 2005)

*Oil Filter Location*

Just curious, can anyone who owns an Atlas tell me where the oil filter is located? I hope it's as accessible as the one in my GTI! I want to be able to use my oil extractor and avoid crawling under the car for every change!

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## gtimusings (Nov 12, 2005)

The vr6 is under the car at the front of the engine. I assume the 4 cylinder is up top.


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## cgvalant (Nov 14, 2005)

Should have specified vr6... Kind of a bummer! Hopefully there will be some relocation kits available

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## walksonair (Aug 29, 2017)

Just doing an oil change on my Q5 and noticed that I can use the same oil on my VW - great!  Linked is the stuff I use in my oil change routine since I got my Audis and it's been smooth sailing. The Audis have the 2.0T so the VW V6 is something I am gonna have to monitor and let you know. I did a carbon cleaning myself on the Audis even though I use the supplements every 20-30K just to clean out the engine, fyi, and got junk out (though not as much as others). I plan on continuing on the VW and will post results as I see them.

Oil: http://amzn.to/2xqMkHH
Supplements: http://amzn.to/2gYxltz


I couldn't easily find a write on a DIY Atlas oil change so I put it up on my list of things to do. I will post here when I am complete.


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

walksonair said:


> Just doing an oil change on my Q5 and noticed that I can use the same oil on my VW - great!  Linked is the stuff I use in my oil change routine since I got my Audis and it's been smooth sailing. The Audis have the 2.0T so the VW V6 is something I am gonna have to monitor and let you know. I did a carbon cleaning myself on the Audis even though I use the supplements every 20-30K just to clean out the engine, fyi, and got junk out (though not as much as others). I plan on continuing on the VW and will post results as I see them.
> 
> Oil: http://amzn.to/2xqMkHH
> Supplements: http://amzn.to/2gYxltz
> ...


Well, I would move from Motul since that oil definiately does not justify price. $47 for average performing oil is bit too much when you have better oils at lower price. 
Castrol 0W40 that you can find in Wal Mart has much better HTHS, is lighter (13.1cst) and it is also full synthetic (PAO based oil). I always find interesting how Motul managed to have in that oil HTHS of 3.64cp and such high cst (13.9) when some 5W30 oils have HTHS of 3.6 and cst of 12. 
Considering Atlas is FSI, I would do two 5K runs on sam eoil, send UOA to Blackstone to see is there any fuel dilution and go from there, but whatever you do I would not go more then 7.5K on American sulfur rich gas. 
As for supplements, I would forget about it.


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## walksonair (Aug 29, 2017)

It's hard for me to follow your logic as you seem to be comparing different weight oils and calling one lighter than the other. According to the car manual, 5W40 is the recommended weight...let me know what in that weight is your preferred oil and its parameters. Either way, if you're up to it, do give an education on motor oils as my knowledge is limited to the 200K miles I drove w/ the Motul. 

On another note, I dropped a clip from when I was trying to find the location of the cabin filter and I had to remove the plastic engine under cover so I am posting a few picts of the fuel filter, oil pan and oil plug. Will do a write up later else someone wants to do it first:


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## beastyben1 (Mar 12, 2009)

*Don't over think*

I'd keep it simple, no need for luxury oils. The Castrol Euro 0w40, Pennzoil Euro 5w40, and Mobil 1 Euro 0w40 are all excellent products. Search bobistheoilguy.com. I use them interchangeably in my 09 Touareg 3.6 VR6 with 120,000 miles and my 09 Passat wagon 2.0 TSI with 75,000 miles. I've done multiple oil analysis - they are all great. 

If your owner's manual specifies 0w40, I'd use it. Seriously M1 0w40 euro for $12 after rebate right now for 5qt jug at Wallyworld.


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

walksonair said:


> It's hard for me to follow your logic as you seem to be comparing different weight oils and calling one lighter than the other. According to the car manual, 5W40 is the recommended weight...let me know what in that weight is your preferred oil and its parameters. Either way, if you're up to it, do give an education on motor oils as my knowledge is limited to the 200K miles I drove w/ the Motul.
> 
> On another note, I dropped a clip from when I was trying to find the location of the cabin filter and I had to remove the plastic engine under cover so I am posting a few picts of the fuel filter, oil pan and oil plug. Will do a write up later else someone wants to do it first:


Maybe I suppose to be more elaborative. 
W20, W30, W40 etc. are kinematic viscosity range at 100c. In particular case, W40 is 12.5cst to 15cst. Anything between those two numbers are W40 oils (whether they are 15W40 or 0W40). 
13.9cst is a bit on heavy side for passenger car oil, which is fine if that translates to high HTHS (high temp. high shear) which is measured at 150c. That is the most important number, particularly for turbo engine. However HTHS of Motul x-clean is 3.64 which is lowest HTHS of oil with such kinematic viscosity. 
As for what it says in manual, VW/Audi cares only for specification, whether that is VW 502.00 (in your case, or in case of my Tiguan). They put 5W40 so that customer has easier time understanding it. 
Motul is good oil, however Castrol 0W40 is much more robust oil and $25 cheaper. That was my point. 


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## walksonair (Aug 29, 2017)

Thanks for that...I remember researching bobistheoilguy.com before choosing Motul but maybe I misread something somewhere. I'll research again before the Atlas (and the other car) needs their next oil change but the Q5 is done w/ its luxury oil. Now to get the Voss water for its wash... :beer:


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

walksonair said:


> Thanks for that...I remember researching bobistheoilguy.com before choosing Motul but maybe I misread something somewhere. I'll research again before the Atlas (and the other car) needs their next oil change but the Q5 is done w/ its luxury oil. Now to get the Voss water for its wash... :beer:


Motul has aura behind it as it is so called true synthetic (more then 50% of composition is PAO or Ester, not hydrocracked mineral oil). But Castrol 0W40 is also "true" synthetic and has same formula as good ole Castrol 0W30. 
I don't know how Castrol makes money on this oil. I think it is price war with Mobil1. Whatever you do, don't use Castrol 5W40 that dealership uses. It is pure junk. 


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## Bluemeansgo (May 14, 2017)

edyvw said:


> walksonair said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks for that...I remember researching bobistheoilguy.com before choosing Motul but maybe I misread something somewhere. I'll research again before the Atlas (and the other car) needs their next oil change but the Q5 is done w/ its luxury oil. Now to get the Voss water for its wash...
> ...



This thread is super interesting for me as I had always taking my car into the dealership to get its oil changed? However recently while breaking in my atlas the oil light came on and I was in the middle of the Canadian Rockies I had to pick up a quart of gas station oil until I got to a NAPA to pick Castrol VW502.00 0w40. I'm curious because I always figured it was easier to get the oil changed at the dealership so that you have records for HD and for warranty reasons but I'm surprised to see people changing the oil on a brand new atlas by themselves. 

Is it purely for DIY or is there a lot of advantages beyond cost of course?


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

First, dealership uses Castrol 5W40. While it meets VW 502.00, take into consideration that VW 502.00 is by no means stringent specification like BMW LL01 and especially MB 229.5. Castrol 5W40 that dealership uses cannot meet MB 229.5 which is most stringent spec when it comes to deposits and NOACK for gasoline engines (which is main culprit behind carbon deposits on direct injection engines, especially turbo direct injection). 
So, when you change oil, always look for oil that besides VW502.00 spec. which is required for VR6 or other VW gas engines in North America, oil also meets MB 229.5. 
Now, as for warranty, in the US at least you can change oil in your garage as long as you are using oil that meets required spec. (again, in this case VW 502.00, regardless of weight, whether that is 5W30, 0W30, 5W40 or 0W40) and approved filter. That is Magnuson-Moss warranty act that states that manufacturer cannot deny warranties claim in non original parts are used (so for example, your engine dies, they cannot say it is because you used MANN filter instead of OEM, which is also probably made by MANN). So, in US, as long as oil meets required spec. You can change oil by yourself at parking lot, and VW cannot do anything if you have warranty claim. I am not sure about Canada though. 
As for other benefits, let's compare Castrol 5W40 which dealership uses and Castrol 0W40 that you can find in NAPA in Canada or in Wal MArt in the U.S. 
5W40 cannot meent MB 229.5 since NOACK (evaporation loss) is 11%. MB 229.5 spec. states that in order for oil to meet that spec. it needs to have NOACK 10% or below. 0W40 NOACK is 9.1%. Now, fallow me here. You might say that that is not big difference, but it is huge one. Less separated first number before W is from second number (after W) the lower NOACK should be. That means that 5W20 oil should have lower NOACK then 0W20 oil. Same should be when it comes to 5W40 and 0W40. But in this case, 5W40 has higher NOACK then 0W40. That means that 5W40 does not have as good base stock as 0W40. Castrol 5W40 that dealership uses is hydrocracked mineral based oil, actually below average one. 0W40 is PAO based (base stock is synthetic stock, not hydrockracked mineral oil) and much more stout. That is obviouse since 0W40 has ridiculously low pour point of -56 degrees celsius, which is one of the signature points of "true" synthetic oils. 
What is benefit of using 0W40 insted of 5W40 Castrol? Less NOACK means less il on valves in ventilation system etc. Also, it means better cold performance. Since 0W40 is lighter oil (13.1cst at 100c) compare to 5W40 Castrol (13.9cst) that means that it will reach operating temperature bit faster. 


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## GiddyGTI (Sep 28, 2005)

can we list some oils that would meet spec or go beyond spec?

also when did you guys do or plan to do first oil change?


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

My take for VW's that need VW502.00 oil:
1. Castrol 0W40 (found in Wal Mart for $26 5qt jug, or $22 on rollback). Meets MB229.5. 
2. Castrol 0W30. On Amazon $54 for 6qt. Same chemistry as 0W40 but better in hardcore winters. I would use this if I lived in Minnesota, Canada etc. 
3. Mobil1 0W40. Same price as Castrol 0W40, found in Wal Mart. Doesn't meet BMW LL-01 since they moved to GTL based. Not sure reason so I stay away from it. It meets VW 502.00 and MB 229.5. 
4. Valvoline 5W40 MST. $5.59 per quart while on sale every few months at NAPA. Meets VW 502.00, VW 505.01 (spec. for PD diesels) and MB 229.51 and BMW LL-04 (those are diesel specs.). I use this oil in my BMW in summer months. 
5. Pennzoil 5W40 available on Amazon for some $50 for 6qt. 

I use in Tiguan Castrol 0W40, and before Castrol brought that oil to Wal Mart, used 0W30 version. 


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## is95a (Jul 6, 2017)

Thanks "edyvw" for all your insight regarding engine oil. I for one am ready to get under my Atlas (almost 5k miles) and change from the original oil to the Castrol 0W40. Couple questions:
1) What filter do you recommend?
2) How often should we plan on changing from that point on? Every 7500mi?
3) What do you about tire rotations? I normally rotate tires along with the oil change...


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

is95a said:


> Thanks "edyvw" for all your insight regarding engine oil. I for one am ready to get under my Atlas (almost 5k miles) and change from the original oil to the Castrol 0W40. Couple questions:
> 1) What filter do you recommend?
> 2) How often should we plan on changing from that point on? Every 7500mi?
> 3) What do you about tire rotations? I normally rotate tires along with the oil change...


1. I always go with OEM (which is made by Mahle or Mann). If not OEM, then Mahle or Mann. 
2. Here is the rub, 3.6ltr VR6 is first gen. FSI engine. Problem is potential fuel dilution that is characteristic of first. gen FSI and TFSI engines. Bit of fuel in oil is not really big deal in EU. Problem is high levels of sulfur in the U.S. gas (not diesel, U.S. diesel is on par with EU when it comes to sulfur levels). Sulfur is kryptonite for additives in oil, and if people do a lot of city driving it can deplete additive levels in oil (especially if oil meets VW 505.01 spec together with VW 502.00 spec. VW 505.01 spec. is diesel spec and has less additives. Whatever you do DO NOT go with oil that meets VW 504.00/507.00 specification). So, I would stick to 5k interval then send oil sample to Blackstone and see what is Total Base number (TBN-additive levels). If TBN goes below 3 in 5K, stick to 5K. If TBN level is around 4-5, you can do 7.5K. If you do not want to send sample, just stick to 5K. I do 5K on both of my cars. To give you example. I did used oil analysis on my Tiguan once. I used Mobil1 0W40 oil. TBN in that oil starts at 11.7 (previous generation of that oil, until Fall 2015). After 5k it was at 2.7. So in 5k TBN went from 11.7 to 2.7. There is no way that oil would do 10k. And that oil is light years ahead of Castrol 5W40 that dealership uses, and I do a lot of HWY miles. 
3. Tire rotation, 5-7.5k. Atlas is FWD based, so it should be less aggressive on tires compare to RWD based SUV's like X5, Dodge Durango etc. So maybe 7.5k. Again, I do every 5 to 7k, depends.


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## is95a (Jul 6, 2017)

Thanks, where do you purchase your filters from and how do you do your wheel rotation? Do you do it yourself or bring it in to a dealer?


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

Filter? Just go to local dealership and go to service dept. You can get filters and maintenance stuff at numerous web sites: www.ecstuning.com, www.fcpeuro.com, www.autohausAZ.com, www.rockauto.com etc. 
wheel? Nah, i just take it to discount tire since that is where I purchase and have free rotation. But since you purchase car, I would do it on my own if there is no balancing issues. 


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## is95a (Jul 6, 2017)

*How do you remove this???*

All right, got all the screws off from under the liner except this one. Any idea how to get it off? I thought it would pop out like a trim fastener, but no go. This is the only thing standing between the first oil change!!! ugh:banghead:


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## is95a (Jul 6, 2017)

with image link
https://pix.sfly.com/3D20Gs


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

That is star screw? You need star wrench. Made mistake once and put that screw on Tiguan. When I wanted to take it down it just slipped. 
Be careful! I would go first to VW and asked for normal screw and after you take that one down, replace it with regular. I am nit sure size of that one. Try to unscrew with pliers or something like that. 


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## walksonair (Aug 29, 2017)

is95a said:


> All right, got all the screws off from under the liner except this one. Any idea how to get it off? I thought it would pop out like a trim fastener, but no go. This is the only thing standing between the first oil change!!! ugh:banghead:


It's a push pin rivet, you push in the center circle and then pry it out using a trim removal tool. I dont know why this is there but I lost the middle pin when I pulled mine out. I basically put a hallow rivet back in and will see if its still there next time I go down to look..if you want to see what they typically look like as well as a sample tool, here's a link: http://amzn.to/2wJZBGr


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## is95a (Jul 6, 2017)

Yeah thanks walksonair. I went back out after I sent this message and gave it another try and got it off. I think there were 10 T25 screws and 3 T40 screws plus that ridiculous plastic rivet to remove the belly pan. Crazy, but I know next time will be easier and quicker. I put in about 5.5 quarts of Pennzoil 0W40...


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## GiddyGTI (Sep 28, 2005)

you can usually use an allen for torx.


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## Bluemeansgo (May 14, 2017)

edyvw said:


> First, dealership uses Castrol 5W40. While it meets VW 502.00, take into consideration that VW 502.00 is by no means stringent specification like BMW LL01 and especially MB 229.5. Castrol 5W40 that dealership uses cannot meet MB 229.5 which is most stringent spec when it comes to deposits and NOACK for gasoline engines (which is main culprit behind carbon deposits on direct injection engines, especially turbo direct injection).
> So, when you change oil, always look for oil that besides VW502.00 spec. which is required for VR6 or other VW gas engines in North America, oil also meets MB 229.5.
> Now, as for warranty, in the US at least you can change oil in your garage as long as you are using oil that meets required spec. (again, in this case VW 502.00, regardless of weight, whether that is 5W30, 0W30, 5W40 or 0W40) and approved filter. That is Magnuson-Moss warranty act that states that manufacturer cannot deny warranties claim in non original parts are used (so for example, your engine dies, they cannot say it is because you used MANN filter instead of OEM, which is also probably made by MANN). So, in US, as long as oil meets required spec. You can change oil by yourself at parking lot, and VW cannot do anything if you have warranty claim. I am not sure about Canada though.
> As for other benefits, let's compare Castrol 5W40 which dealership uses and Castrol 0W40 that you can find in NAPA in Canada or in Wal MArt in the U.S.
> ...


This is awesome information. I'm betting the dealership charges $200 for a basic level "A" service... and if they're using inferior oil... ugh.


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

Bluemeansgo said:


> This is awesome information. I'm betting the dealership charges $200 for a basic level "A" service... and if they're using inferior oil... ugh.


I think they will charge oil change somewhere around $99. Take into consideration that 5qt of Castrol 0W40 in Wal Mart is $26 when it is not on rollback ($22when it is). So I think VR6 takes, what? 6.5qt something like that, so you change oil for $35 +$12 or something like that for filter, that is $47. Let’s say $50 for the sake of argument. So you use better oil for less money. 
No brainer. 


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## vwbugstuff (Mar 27, 2004)

Bluemeansgo said:


> This is awesome information. I'm betting the dealership charges $200 for a basic level "A" service... and if they're using inferior oil... ugh.


The dealership I go to uses Valvoline 5w40 synthetic and charges 79.95 for an oil change.


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

vwbugstuff said:


> The dealership I go to uses Valvoline 5w40 synthetic and charges 79.95 for an oil change.


Valvoline 540 MST I assume? 
I use Valvoline 5W40 MST in summer in BMW. It is better oil then Castrol 5W40, but not really suitable for FSI engines. 
I personally would be hesitant to do longer then 5k on that oil in FSI engine. Valvoline MST is targeted at diesel engines and would be OK to use in Europe in FSI engines, where sulfur levels in gas are low. Here in the USA we have much higher levels of sulfur in gas. VR6 in Atlas is first generation FSI engine and they are fuel dilution monsters. That sulfur in gas will destroy additives in that Valvoline much faster then in so called High-SAPS oils such as Castrol 0W30/40, Mobil1 0W40 or Pennzoil 0/5W40 among others, since additive level in that oil is on lower side in order to preserve DPF in diesel cars. But since diesel in the USA has low sulfur levels, using that oil is OK in cars such as my X5 or Mercedes diesels (not in newr VW diesels). If you will change that Valvoline every 5k you should be fine, but without oil analysis it is hard to be 100% sure. 



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## DIRANONI (Jun 21, 2006)

I could only find the Mann Filter (HU 8009 z) and FRAM Filter (CH11242 Extra Guard Oil Filter Cartridge) online, what sites or other filters would you recommend for the Atlas. Are OEM available for sale.


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## rider5000 (Sep 28, 2017)

I buy my filters at the dealership.


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## TeamAtlas (Oct 17, 2017)

FWIW, the Canadian manual indicates 0w30 as the desired grade and comes with an insert that indicates the Castrol Edge Professional is the "best" for the vehicle. 

I will be changing oil this weekend and sending the factory oil out for analysis. I will be putting in 5w30, which the manual also says is acceptable since 0w30 is not available and I have bad experiences with 0w weight oils. The filter I selected is a WIX unit from Oreilly and with cartridge filters, I'm not too worried about brand, since they can't screw up the bypass or any number of other small details that affect oil flow. I will do a quick visual to compare the two before I put it in the motor, but I'm not expecting any drama.

I'll post up here once I get the analysis back.


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

TeamAtlas said:


> FWIW, the Canadian manual indicates 0w30 as the desired grade and comes with an insert that indicates the Castrol Edge Professional is the "best" for the vehicle.
> 
> I will be changing oil this weekend and sending the factory oil out for analysis. I will be putting in 5w30, which the manual also says is acceptable since 0w30 is not available and I have bad experiences with 0w weight oils. The filter I selected is a WIX unit from Oreilly and with cartridge filters, I'm not too worried about brand, since they can't screw up the bypass or any number of other small details that affect oil flow. I will do a quick visual to compare the two before I put it in the motor, but I'm not expecting any drama.
> 
> I'll post up here once I get the analysis back.


I think you should have in Canada 0W30 Castrol. IMO it is best Castrol you can get for Atlas. Next would be Castrol 0W40. Both oils are same formula except a difference in viscosity modifiers. Both have ridiculous pour point of -60c. 
If you go with 5W30 make sure it meets VW502.00 (warranty purpose), MB229.5( most stringent spec. for gas engines). 
But, save yourself from headaches, get Castrol 0W30/40 if you want best. 
By the way, what “bad” experience with 0W oils?


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## rider5000 (Sep 28, 2017)

I would go with 0w30 or 0w40. I changed my oil and filter at 1k with castrol 0w40 and it runs just fine. I did find a few metal flakes and slivers in my oil filter. Guess they were left overs from being built. I babied the engine the whole time during break in and never went over 4k rpms..


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## juched (Nov 12, 2004)

I am surprised in Canada they would use 5w40 when the manual recommends 0w30. 

Did someone ask if they use 5w40? I know they did in my Passat, but the manual suggested that as well.


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

juched said:


> I am surprised in Canada they would use 5w40 when the manual recommends 0w30.
> 
> Did someone ask if they use 5w40? I know they did in my Passat, but the manual suggested that as well.


Pour point of 5W40 is -42c. So as long you are not seeing-42 or lower you are fine. 
However, I wouldn’t not use Castrol 5W40 since it is on dead serious note below average oil in that category. 
Manual recommend 0W30 due to winters. What matters is VW502.00 specification. However due to VW502.00 being on “loose” side, I would make sure oil meets MB229.5 which is most stringent specification for Euro gassers. 


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## TeamAtlas (Oct 17, 2017)

Oil change went well today. I would NOT trust a quick change place to do that though!

At 5 quarts, it read a quart low on the stick (after a brief run). Added the full 6th quart and it looked good on the stick. The stick is probably the worst dipstick placement I have ever seen and there's a fuel line clip that actually touches the oil fill cap. The plastic rivet at the back of the aero panel is also pretty inexcusable. Should be a pull-out version that could be removed by a pick. I lost the tag end up into the subframe, never to be seen again...

WIX filter was a perfect fit. The store did not have a listing for Atlas, so the part was selected as correct for the 2017 Passat 3.6. 

Oil analysis and filter dissection to follow.


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

TeamAtlas said:


> Oil change went well today. I would NOT trust a quick change place to do that though!
> 
> At 5 quarts, it read a quart low on the stick (after a brief run). Added the full 6th quart and it looked good on the stick. The stick is probably the worst dipstick placement I have ever seen and there's a fuel line clip that actually touches the oil fill cap. The plastic rivet at the back of the aero panel is also pretty inexcusable. Should be a pull-out version that could be removed by a pick. I lost the tag end up into the subframe, never to be seen again...
> 
> ...


What oil you used?


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## TeamAtlas (Oct 17, 2017)

edyvw said:


> What oil you used?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Castrol synthetic 5w30 as permitted by the manual.


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

TeamAtlas said:


> Castrol synthetic 5w30 as permitted by the manual.


There are several Castrol Edge 5W30. The one that is specified for VW gassers is Castrol Edge 5W30 A3/B4. 


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## TeamAtlas (Oct 17, 2017)

Oil is not magic. It was plain ol' Castrol Synthetic 5w30. The engines in passenger cars that the average driver owns (my wife being one) are not exposed to anything approaching the rigors of modern engine durability tests where the aspects of any particular "blend" of oil or additives may become apparent.


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

TeamAtlas said:


> Oil is not magic. It was plain ol' Castrol Synthetic 5w30. The engines in passenger cars that the average driver owns (my wife being one) are not exposed to anything approaching the rigors of modern engine durability tests where the aspects of any particular "blend" of oil or additives may become apparent.


Sorry, but you do not obviously understand what comes with FSI engines. And, while oil is not magic, it is very complex, especially when it comes to Euro engines. 
That plain ole Castrol (which is POS comparing to A3/B4) has cst in 11 range and is made of cheaper Group 3 mineral based oils. Hardcore enthusiasts are going to argue that that is fake synthetic oil. 
VR6 requires HTHS of oil to be above 3.5cp (google what is hths and why it is important). HTHS in that Castrol is well below 3.5cp. 
However, where you will have problem in the long run is that “plain ole” Castrol 5W30 is so called “light” 5W30 oil with kinematic viscosity closer to 10. 5W30 that manual calls for is VW 502.00 and that oil also has to meet ACEA A3/B3 B4. Those 5W30 oils are so called “heavy” 5W30 oils whose kinematic viscosity is around 12 (12.5 is where W40 starts). That is important because you will have fuel dilution in engine like all other first generation FSI engines, especially because it is not driven hard, and fuel will not evaporate. Having that 5W30 oil in 5k (i do not want to think what will happen if you do 10k oci) your oil will turn into 5W20 oil. 
That engine was diluting much heavier oils into thin W30 and even W20 oils. 
So, while I understand your argument how car is not driven hard etc. do not forget that Euro engines always do better when they are pushed hard. They are made with that in mind. 
On other hand, makes you think twice about purchasing used Atlas, since I bet you are not the only one who will use “plain ole” Castrol. 
Oil is cheap, engines are expensive. 

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## GiddyGTI (Sep 28, 2005)

Went to Walmart and picked up 5qt jug of Castrol edge 0w40 for $26. I wanted to get an additional 1 qt but they did not have the same oil in 1 qt bottle. But I found the mobil1 syn 0w40 for euro engines 1qt bottle so I got that. Would it be ok to mix the oils? 

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## TeamAtlas (Oct 17, 2017)

I know oil is a really touchy, almost religious thing, and I really didn't want to engage, but you baited me. 

I get that you know a lot about oil, but I'm not just a dips**t with a new SUV. You should not assume people you meet on forums do know what they're talking about, but you also shouldn't assume that they do not. I fully understand what I'm doing and I fully understand these engines (and engines in general). I want to be a part of the community, but this is pretty trying. Let's keep it light :beer:

You keep your car and I'll keep mine. I'm not intending to sell for many years


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## juched (Nov 12, 2004)

edyvw said:


> juched said:
> 
> 
> > I am surprised in Canada they would use 5w40 when the manual recommends 0w30.
> ...


With my Passat 2007 2.0T (which burned a little oil) I would buy Castrol Professional 5w40 from the dealer and it was the same they would use. I will need to ask what they use up here for oil in the Atlas. First oil change is at 15k km. 

https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-Edge-Professional-5W-40-Motor/dp/B0721CC7GW#


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

TeamAtlas said:


> I know oil is a really touchy, almost religious thing, and I really didn't want to engage, but you baited me.
> 
> I get that you know a lot about oil, but I'm not just a dips**t with a new SUV. You should not assume people you meet on forums do know what they're talking about, but you also shouldn't assume that they do not. I fully understand what I'm doing and I fully understand these engines (and engines in general). I want to be a part of the community, but this is pretty trying. Let's keep it light :beer:
> 
> You keep your car and I'll keep mine. I'm not intending to sell for many years


Dude, your engine. I replied more for other people not to do stupid stuff. 
By the way your warranty is voided. 


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

GiddyGTI said:


> Went to Walmart and picked up 5qt jug of Castrol edge 0w40 for $26. I wanted to get an additional 1 qt but they did not have the same oil in 1 qt bottle. But I found the mobil1 syn 0w40 for euro engines 1qt bottle so I got that. Would it be ok to mix the oils?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


Don’t! Those are two different oil bases and additives. Castrol 0W40 is PAO based (real synthetic). Mobil1 0W40 is gas to liquid (GTL) based. It’s been reported that those who did it that oil foamed. 
Just get two jugs of Castrol 0W40 and use 4qt next time. By the way, there are 1qt Castrol bottles in Wal Mart. I got it for Tiguan. Check other Wal Mart, sometimes you cannot find some stuff in certain stores. 

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## GTINC (Jan 28, 2005)

edyvw said:


> ......By the way your warranty is voided......


Can you direct us all to VW's statement on that.


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## GTINC (Jan 28, 2005)

edyvw said:


> .....Castrol 0W40 is PAO based (real synthetic). Mobil1 0W40 is gas to liquid (GTL) based. It’s been reported that those who did it that oil foamed.....


Internet "reports" are not facts.


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## GiddyGTI (Sep 28, 2005)

edyvw said:


> Don’t! Those are two different oil bases and additives. Castrol 0W40 is PAO based (real synthetic). Mobil1 0W40 is gas to liquid (GTL) based. It’s been reported that those who did it that oil foamed.
> Just get two jugs of Castrol 0W40 and use 4qt next time. By the way, there are 1qt Castrol bottles in Wal Mart. I got it for Tiguan. Check other Wal Mart, sometimes you cannot find some stuff in certain stores.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks will check other stores.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


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## walksonair (Aug 29, 2017)

edyvw said:


> Dude, your engine. I replied more for other people not to do stupid stuff.
> By the way your warranty is voided.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


How is the warranty voided if he used 502 spec oil?


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

walksonair said:


> How is the warranty voided if he used 502 spec oil?


According to him, he did not use VW502.00. 
I specifically asked him did he used Castrol 5W30 A3/B4 which is only Castrol 5W30 on North American market that meets VW502.00 (there is Castrol 5W30 C3 that is aimed at diesels that also carries 502.00). Both of these 5W30 are available online and rarely in shops, and if it is available in shops, it will be in some specialized indy shops. 
His answer is that he used “plain ole” Castrol 5W30. 


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

edyvw said:


> Don’t! Those are two different oil bases and additives. Castrol 0W40 is PAO based (real synthetic). Mobil1 0W40 is gas to liquid (GTL) based. It’s been reported that those who did it that oil foamed.
> Just get two jugs of Castrol 0W40 and use 4qt next time. By the way, there are 1qt Castrol bottles in Wal Mart. I got it for Tiguan. Check other Wal Mart, sometimes you cannot find some stuff in certain stores.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


the MSDS on Castrol 0w40 does not list PAO, nor its CAS number (68649-12-7). It lists Pentadecane, 7-methylene-, mixed with 1-tetradecene, dimers and trimers, hydrogenated (1000172-11-1), 50-75% (which is a hydrocarbon), with base oil, highly refined (10-15%)

https://msdspds.castrol.com/ussds/amersdsf.nsf/Files/729231D2ABF643B28025817E00527278/$File/11264210.pdf


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

BsickPassat said:


> the MSDS on Castrol 0w40 does not list PAO, nor its CAS number (68649-12-7). It lists Pentadecane, 7-methylene-, mixed with 1-tetradecene, dimers and trimers, hydrogenated (1000172-11-1), 50-75% (which is a hydrocarbon), with base oil, highly refined (10-15%)
> 
> https://msdspds.castrol.com/ussds/amersdsf.nsf/Files/729231D2ABF643B28025817E00527278/$File/11264210.pdf


1. All world is getting now same Castrol 0W40 and it cannot be sold in Germany as full synthetic (and it is sold as full synthetic) if there is no at least 50% PAO or Ester. 
2. Mineral based oil cannot achieve that pour point of that Castrol. 
3. HC Castrols ALWAYS have very high NOACK. 
4. Is it possible that Castrol updated their formula, sure. However, that oil still has ridiculous pour point, low NOACK and meets MB229.5 which is toughest spec. for gas engines, unlike Castrol 5W40. 
5. Still formula in Castrol is not conducive to mix with M1. 
6. If they introduced more GrIII in oil, expect change on German market from full synthetic to synthetic technology. If that doesn’t happen then there is your answer about composition. 
As for MSDS, good luck finding correct one from Castrol or Pennzoil. 


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## knedrgr (Jun 6, 2011)

Does anyone have the replacement filter number (3.6 VR6 engine) for Mann or Mahle?


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

knedrgr said:


> Does anyone have the replacement filter number (3.6 VR6 engine) for Mann or Mahle?


Mahle OX983
Mann HU932/6n


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

edyvw said:


> 1. All world is getting now same Castrol 0W40 and it cannot be sold in Germany as full synthetic (and it is sold as full synthetic) if there is no at least 50% PAO or Ester.
> 2. Mineral based oil cannot achieve that pour point of that Castrol.
> 3. HC Castrols ALWAYS have very high NOACK.
> 4. Is it possible that Castrol updated their formula, sure. However, that oil still has ridiculous pour point, low NOACK and meets MB229.5 which is toughest spec. for gas engines, unlike Castrol 5W40.
> ...


it's not that hard to use the Castrol PDS/MSDS search engine.

German MSDS for 0w40
https://msdspds.castrol.com/ussds/amersdsf.nsf/Files/2A915B3E469298E6802580F00052800A/$File/11221921.pdf
No CAS number for PAO either. Same base stock as the US MSDS


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

BsickPassat said:


> it's not that hard to use the Castrol PDS/MSDS search engine.
> 
> German MSDS for 0w40
> https://msdspds.castrol.com/ussds/amersdsf.nsf/Files/2A915B3E469298E6802580F00052800A/$File/11221921.pdf
> No CAS number for PAO either. Same base stock as the US MSDS


You are right. Catsrol apparently changed their formula. I was just checking their German web site and yes, they updated their formula. 
Obviously they figured out how to achieve similar results with HC based oil. Still, IMO best 0W40 or W40 in general oil on the market here. 
My mistake.


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## knedrgr (Jun 6, 2011)

BsickPassat said:


> Mahle OX983
> Mann HU932/6n


Thanks for the info.


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## chipster (May 30, 2017)

*Did mines yesterday at 8k miles*

Dropped by the dealer to pick up an OEM filter for $15 and oil at Walmart for $25 per 5-quart jug of Castrol Edge 0w-40. They didn't have a single quart of this.. So I'll have to drop by the local Oreilly or Autozone for their $9 bottle to top off to 6-quarts.

Everything went smooth except for that one stupid rivet whose center plug could no longer be found. I left it off and cursed the engineer who designed that in.

This was my first VR6 oil change. I've done old 1.8t's (lasted 227k miles) and 2.5L's (now at $93k miles) in the past. The only peeve I have is the belly pan removal


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

chipster said:


> Dropped by the dealer to pick up an OEM filter for $15 and oil at Walmart for $25 per 5-quart jug of Castrol Edge 0w-40. They didn't have a single quart of this.. So I'll have to drop by the local Oreilly or Autozone for their $9 bottle to top off to 6-quarts.
> 
> Everything went smooth except for that one stupid rivet whose center plug could no longer be found. I left it off and cursed the engineer who designed that in.
> 
> This was my first VR6 oil change. I've done old 1.8t's (lasted 227k miles) and 2.5L's (now at $93k miles) in the past. The only peeve I have is the belly pan removal


Why you did not buy two 5qt and use rest next time?


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## walksonair (Aug 29, 2017)

chipster said:


> Everything went smooth except for that one stupid rivet whose center plug could no longer be found. I left it off and cursed the engineer who designed that in.


Exactly! I lost mine too! ...


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## walksonair (Aug 29, 2017)

Just bought the Castrol EDGE 0W-40 A3/B4 Full Synthetic Motor Oil, 5 QT for $19.98 at WallyMarty....very nice! :snowcool:


https://www.walmart.com/ip/Castrol-EDGE-0W-40-A3-B4-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-5-QT/35931146


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## CustomBuilder (Mar 7, 2017)

Just Stay on Track - about the Oil Change on this Vehicle ! ( ROUTINE ) 

LIKE IS THERE A TRANSMISSION DIP STICK ?

CRANK CASE DIP STICK ?

HOW MANY QTS. ?

DIFFERENT PROCEDURES - ( Dip Sticks ) ! :wave:


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

CustomBuilder said:


> Just Stay on Track - about the Oil Change on this Vehicle ! ( ROUTINE )
> 
> LIKE IS THERE A TRANSMISSION DIP STICK ?
> 
> ...


Open the hood and read the owners manual will answer most of your questions.

Also, you might have missed the post about buying a 5 qt bottle of oil and a quart of oil.... which tells you the answer for oil capacity (5.8 quarts)

No, there is no transmission dipstick 

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## Daekwan (Nov 5, 2017)

Looks like the oil is $19.98 including free shipping for Prime members at Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JGQLZSU

Wife has yet to hit 1000 miles on her month old Atlas yet. But its a city car, which means a ton of stop and go. Good chance I'll change it early to get the new engine shavings out. My guess is once she hits 2000miles. You figure engine should be broken in by then.


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## TeamAtlas (Oct 17, 2017)

For those who are interested, and at risk of starting an argument, here's the analysis from my first oil change. 

Below is the Blackstone labs report and some images of the filter. This is the FACTORY OIL AND FACTORY FILTER. 

Worth noting that the oil viscosity was on the low end of the scale for 0w30 and that 2% fuel dilution is more than I would like to see (thanks GDI) but not indicative of a problem. I generally agree with the comments Blackstone has made. Most of the metals should measure much lower in my second sample. The high boron is the only weird one for me. From some searching it seems boron (and borates) are used as an additive for anti-wear and extreme pressure behaviour improvement. It's likely that this is done to meet the HTHS spec as mentioned earlier in the thread. 

The smaller filters from the comparison shot are FL500 models popular with MANY automakers. Our filters are GIGANTIC by comparison. The additional area will reduce pressure drop across the media. I replaced the filter with a Wix and I'll cut that one up too once it comes time to change. In future, I suspect I'll be moving to the NPN filters available at ECS. This last image is the largest aluminum chip in my filter. Pretty consistent with the average plant build, and trapped in the filter it doesn't do any harm.

Enjoy!


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

Next time you do UOA pay for TBN and TAN. For this no one can conclude anything what is left of oil life if you do not have TBN level (affected by fuel dilution) or TAN (oxidation) level. 
And it is not DI in general, some do really good job, it is VR6 and they are known as horrible diluters. That is why ACEA A3/B3 B4 oils are way to go, preferably W40 weight.


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

Daekwan said:


> Looks like the oil is $19.98 including free shipping for Prime members at Amazon:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JGQLZSU
> 
> Wife has yet to hit 1000 miles on her month old Atlas yet. But its a city car, which means a ton of stop and go. Good chance I'll change it early to get the new engine shavings out. My guess is once she hits 2000miles. You figure engine should be broken in by then.


Yep, that oil is way to go in Atlas.


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## TeamAtlas (Oct 17, 2017)

Since I'm changing the oil for reasons other than "life" I was not concerned about remaining life. My intervals will always be less than the recommended 15000 kms. 

I will disagree and say that GDI motors do, in general, have greater issues with fuel dilution than port-fueled motors. I don't disagree, however, that the VR6 might be even worse than other GDI motors. 

Which aspect of the VR6 makes you believe that it is particularly bad? What aspects of the Mobil 1 oil separate it from the Castrol Edge?


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

TeamAtlas said:


> Since I'm changing the oil for reasons other than "life" I was not concerned about remaining life. My intervals will always be less than the recommended 15000 kms.
> 
> I will disagree and say that GDI motors do, in general, have greater issues with fuel dilution than port-fueled motors. I don't disagree, however, that the VR6 might be even worse than other GDI motors.
> 
> Which aspect of the VR6 makes you believe that it is particularly bad? What aspects of the Mobil 1 oil separate it from the Castrol Edge?


O I understand that you did not change at such low km because of life. But, TBN and TAN will give you good indication about how fuel affects additives. Also, it will give you indication about sulfur levels in fuel. If TBN is drastically lowered from starting point, then there is ample amount of sulfur in gas. Fuel dilution per se is not that big issue if sulfur levels are in check like in EU. However, in North America, and especially the U.S. laws and regulations are laxed. New sulfur requirements that are in effect 01/01/2017 in the U.S. allow sulfur levels up to 80ppm, as long as average is 15ppm. That means that refineries can calculate already stringent requirements in CA, and offer for example high sulfur gas in Oklahoma or Alabama. 
If you just search on internet you will find numerous UOA of FSI and TFSI engines of all generations (probably not that much of third gen.) and you can compare it to other DI engines or port-injection engines. FSIO and TFSI were always stand outs, and that is normal since they were one of the first that were available in DI technology on such massive scale. Problem is that VW did not do anything about it in VR6 engine while competition did, granted Honda really screwed up with 1.5 Turbo engine where there are UOA with 5% fuel in oil. 

Your question about difference between Castrol Edge and Mobil1 is confusing. Which Castrol Edge? Castrol Edge 5W30 ILSAC GF-5 or Castrol Edge ACEA A3/B3 B4? Which Mobil1? ILSAC GF-5 or ACEA A3/B3 B4? There is huge difference between ILSAC GF-5 (Which should NEVER find its way in VR6) and ACEA A3/B3 B4. Your oil sample is showing 9.47cst after 1,350km. That means that ILAS GF-5 oils after 2-3k km is going to be 5W20 oil and after 10k km God knows what. Those FSI first gen. engines crave for heavy working temp. oils such as 5W40 or 0W40. A lot of owners of TFSI and FSI engines are using Heavy Duty oils such as Mobil1 TDT or Shell Rotella T6 to address fuel dilution issues since cst at working temperature is above 14cst. Though, those oils usually have high NOACK and not that good pour point.


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## TeamAtlas (Oct 17, 2017)

The question has to be apples to apples. Comparing the VW 502.00 oils, one to the other what difference leads you to conclude that the Mobil 1 is the superior oil?


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

TeamAtlas said:


> The question has to be apples to apples. Comparing the VW 502.00 oils, one to the other what difference leads you to conclude that the Mobil 1 is the superior oil?


When did I say Mobil1 is superior?
You really cannot compare VW502.00 to other VW502.00 unless you also take into consideration other specification those oils meet, since VW502.00 is really not stringent specification by any means.
Castrol Edge 5W40 compare to Mobil1 0W40? Castrol is absolutely inferior oil in this case. It does not meet MB229.5 and that is BIG deal.
Castrol Edge 0W40 compare to Mobil1 0W40? I would say Castrol is better oil in this case.
Castrol Edge 0W30 ACEA A3/B3 B4? I would say that is by far best oil for Euro gassers. All oils I mentioned meet VW502.00, except that 5W40 Edge is POS compared to others I mentioned. 
I use in Tiguan Castrol 0W40, not Mobil1 0W40. In BMW I use Mobil1 5W30 ESP as that is by far the most sophisticated oil for Euro diesels you can find now on the market (oil that meets BMW LL-04, MB 229.51, VW 504.00/507.00 etc).


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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

TeamAtlas said:


> For those who are interested, and at risk of starting an argument, here's the analysis from my first oil change.
> 
> Below is the Blackstone labs report and some images of the filter. This is the FACTORY OIL AND FACTORY FILTER.
> 
> ...


TeamAtlas, thank you for posting your UOA, some of us really appreciate the gesture. It’s nice to see some numbers and proof as compared to the misinformation and opinions strewn here.


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

0macman0 said:


> TeamAtlas, thank you for posting your UOA, some of us really appreciate the gesture. It’s nice to see some numbers and proof as compared to the misinformation and opinions strewn here.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Can you indicate misinformation and opinions that are in conflict with this UOA?


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## TeamAtlas (Oct 17, 2017)

Thanks 0macman0, I hope some appreciate it. I have no issues continuing to post these and I have asked Blackstone to compare to other FSI 3.6l if they have any measured (Passat/Touareg). We'll see what I hear back. 

edyvw, I thought you had identified the Mobil 1 as superior, my bad, the link was to the Castrol. I agree that either of these are the correct oil for these cars, but I still contest how important the HTHS performance is in these motors. I'll be switching out the locally-sourced oil from my car to one of these oils on next change and I'll let VW do the 15k (km) change to get the stamp in my warranty book. Having more safety factor on viscosity is always a good thing (and I'll happily make the trade-off for engine safety over a tiny impact on efficiency). 

I think the thing that irks me is looking at a number of very good oils and saying that one is a "POS" compared to another. The differences are not THAT great. To me, it's like looking at a lot of Ferraris and saying "I wouldn't take that one home, because it's the s**t Ferrari". The differences certainly become more important at longer intervals or under more harsh usages, but that's not the case for most of us who will change sooner than spec, never approach GVWR or max tow and who don't live near an Autobahn. 

Getting back to data, I would REALLY love for someone to sample a 15K (km)/10k mile initial oil change. Anybody who will run to the interval on the stock oil, please PM me and I will help and even pay for your sample.


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

TeamAtlas said:


> Thanks 0macman0, I hope some appreciate it. I have no issues continuing to post these and I have asked Blackstone to compare to other FSI 3.6l if they have any measured (Passat/Touareg). We'll see what I hear back.
> 
> edyvw, I thought you had identified the Mobil 1 as superior, my bad, the link was to the Castrol. I agree that either of these are the correct oil for these cars, but I still contest how important the HTHS performance is in these motors. I'll be switching out the locally-sourced oil from my car to one of these oils on next change and I'll let VW do the 15k (km) change to get the stamp in my warranty book. Having more safety factor on viscosity is always a good thing (and I'll happily make the trade-off for engine safety over a tiny impact on efficiency).
> 
> ...


Looking Castrol 5W40 by itself and one might come o conclusion that it is good oil, and it is.
Comparing it to Castrol 5W40 to 0W30/40 Castrol or Mobila1 0W40 etc. and you come to conclusion it is POS.
Now as analogy, that would be like having money for Atlas but deciding to buy 1994 Chevrolet Blazer for same money. 
And difference is big! If you apply that logic then difference is not that big between todays oils and those 15 years ago. Few % in NOACK, few % in oxidation etc.
As for HTHS, do not forget, VR6 is old fashioned engine that loves heavy oils. Heavy oils have higher HTHS. Problem is dilution. 9.47cst is light W30 oil, and I personally would not like to see that in my car, turbo or not. I saw numerous UOA, and 9.47cst after 1,350km is really something. Either fuel has a lot of sulfur or VW used thin oil for bed in process (hopefully this). High Boron indicates bed in oil.


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

Also, such thin oil might be an attempt by VW to get better fuel certification. All companies are doing that now. 


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## GTINC (Jan 28, 2005)

edyvw said:


> Looking Castrol 5W40 by itself and one might come o conclusion that it is good oil, and it is.
> Comparing it to Castrol 5W40 to 0W30/40 Castrol or Mobila1 0W40 etc. and you come to conclusion it is POS.
> Now as analogy, that would be like having money for Atlas but deciding to buy 1994 Chevrolet Blazer for same money.
> And difference is big! If you apply that logic then difference is not that big between todays oils and those 15 years ago. Few % in NOACK, few % in oxidation etc.
> As for HTHS, do not forget, VR6 is old fashioned engine that loves heavy oils. Heavy oils have higher HTHS. Problem is dilution. 9.47cst is light W30 oil, and I personally would not like to see that in my car, turbo or not. I saw numerous UOA, and 9.47cst after 1,350km is really something. Either fuel has a lot of sulfur or VW used thin oil for bed in process (hopefully this). High Boron indicates bed in oil.


I bet your "friends" roll there eyes whenever you are around. You are full to the brim with BS.


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

edyvw said:


> When did I say Mobil1 is superior?
> You really cannot compare VW502.00 to other VW502.00 unless you also take into consideration other specification those oils meet, since VW502.00 is really not stringent specification by any means.
> Castrol Edge 5W40 compare to Mobil1 0W40? Castrol is absolutely inferior oil in this case. It does not meet MB229.5 and that is BIG deal.
> Castrol Edge 0W40 compare to Mobil1 0W40? I would say Castrol is better oil in this case.
> ...


You used to be a fan of BMW LL-01. Since mobil.1 0w40 is no longer ll-01 certified (and Castrol 5w40 is), why is MB 299.5 the critical spec now?

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## TeamAtlas (Oct 17, 2017)

edyvw said:


> Also, such thin oil might be an attempt by VW to get better fuel certification. All companies are doing that now.


Yes. BUT. If it came from the factory with that oil, it would pass durability testing on that oil (even with the 15k km intervals). 

Remember, the only direction given by VW is VW502 spec 0w30.


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

BsickPassat said:


> You used to be a fan of BMW LL-01. Since mobil.1 0w40 is no longer ll-01 certified (and Castrol 5w40 is), why is MB 299.5 the critical spec now?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


You again missed somewhere my post. I never said LL-01 is that important, but it begs the question why Mobil1 cannot meet it anymore since they switched to GTL base from VISOM base. 
MB229.5 has most stringent deposit, oxidation and NOACK requirements (same applies for MB229.51 among diesel oils).


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

TeamAtlas said:


> Yes. BUT. If it came from the factory with that oil, it would pass durability testing on that oil (even with the 15k km intervals).
> 
> Remember, the only direction given by VW is VW502 spec 0w30.


If VW used 0W30 oil in VR6 as break in, it is Castrol 0W30 A3/B3 B4 (VW used this oil a lot as first fill). However, starting cst of that oil is 12.1 cst. That means that oil lost 20%+ cst in just 1,135km. 9.3cst is maximum viscosity of W20 oils and your oil is already in that territory. 

That means VW does not give a crap what happens to your engine after warranty. 
Or, fuel in your area is ridiculously high in sulfur. 
As for requirement, VW requires VW502.00. Grade is irrelevant, 0W30 is recommendation for your market. Also, you are assuming that oil used in your engine is 0W30, you do not know that as CCS and MRV are not provided by the Blackstone. It could be as well some specially formulated break in oil (hence high Boron).


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## juched (Nov 12, 2004)

TeamAtlas said:


> Yes. BUT. If it came from the factory with that oil, it would pass durability testing on that oil (even with the 15k km intervals).
> 
> Remember, the only direction given by VW is VW502 spec 0w30.


My dealer has indicated I don’t need to bring my new Atlas in for 1 year and 15k km. Not sure what oil it came with. Will check the manual again. 


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

juched said:


> My dealer has indicated I don’t need to bring my new Atlas in for 1 year and 15k km. Not sure what oil it came with. Will check the manual again.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Manual is indicating what oil is recommended for service. Initial fill could be something else to help engine break in. 


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## TeamAtlas (Oct 17, 2017)

juched said:


> My dealer has indicated I don’t need to bring my new Atlas in for 1 year and 15k km. Not sure what oil it came with. Will check the manual again.


When you hit 15k and go in for your change, let me know and I'll send you a sampling kit. If we could get this data it would be really great!


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

TeamAtlas said:


> When you hit 15k and go in for your change, let me know and I'll send you a sampling kit. If we could get this data it would be really great!


Based on your UOA, he better change it before 15k. At 15k Costco olive oil might be thicker. 
Oil is cheap, engines are not. 


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## TeamAtlas (Oct 17, 2017)

Based on my UOA, if things are as fragile as you think, every engine will grenade before 15K km.


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

TeamAtlas said:


> Based on my UOA, if things are as fragile as you think, every engine will grenade before 15K km.


You do know you were running W20 oil when you took it out? 
That thing at 15k is going to be oxidation bomb. 
But hey, it is your money not mine. And numbers do not lie, whatever you think. You did UOA (not sure why) but you are interpreting it on wishful thinking basis. 
If you maybe pray next to a car, it might thicken out oil.


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## TeamAtlas (Oct 17, 2017)

That was the oil that VOLKSWAGEN PUT IN THE CAR. I don't give a s**t what the vat said on it. 

They expect it to go 15k km and have durability tests to prove it. While I choose to mitigate risk by changing sooner, why would you, or I, or anyone else think this oil won't survive? :banghead:

Their shops would be flooded with warranty repairs if this was the case.


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

TeamAtlas said:


> That was the oil that VOLKSWAGEN PUT IN THE CAR. I don't give a s**t what the vat said on it.
> 
> They expect it to go 15k km and have durability tests to prove it. While I choose to mitigate risk by changing sooner, why would you, or I, or anyone else think this oil won't survive? :banghead:
> 
> Their shops would be flooded with warranty repairs if this was the case.


VW502.00 requirement is for oil to stay in grade for duration of oil change interval. Since thinnest oil that meets VW502.00 is 0/5W30 that mean that that oil after 15k has to be at minimum 9.3cst. Yours is at 9.47 after 1,350km. 
Now, I see that your approach is to hope for the best, however I am responding only for others to take something out of this. 
You did UOA, but you argument is:well VW guarantees it. Really? You slept over last few years so you are not aware of VW’s transparency? Those are numbers, scientific proof, but hope dies last, right? 


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## vwbugstuff (Mar 27, 2004)

edyvw said:


> Based on your UOA, he better change it before 15k. At 15k Costco olive oil might be thicker.
> Oil is cheap, engines are not.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That's only 9320 miles - I'm sure he'll be fine.


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

vwbugstuff said:


> That's only 9320 miles - I'm sure he'll be fine.


I said based on posted UOA after 1,350km which is 844 miles. If one of my cars had cst of 9.47 after 5k miles not 844 I would be doing already warranty claim or figuring out how to offload the car. 
If this is normal for Atlas, oh well, VW did it again. 


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

edyvw said:


> You again missed somewhere my post. I never said LL-01 is that important, but it begs the question why Mobil1 cannot meet it anymore since they switched to GTL base from VISOM base.
> MB229.5 has most stringent deposit, oxidation and NOACK requirements (same applies for MB229.51 among diesel oils).


 On bitog you used to be hardcore about ll-01 as the benchmark spec

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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

BsickPassat said:


> On bitog you used to be hardcore about ll-01 as the benchmark spec
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


Nope, I always was hard as MB 229.5 as benchmark. However, my point is why dropping LL-01? Second point, why still keeping VISOM version of M1 in Europe? It is problem IMO, however still better oil then Castrol 5W40. 



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## Dmilone34 (Dec 4, 2017)

My atlas is not even at 500miles yet and looking to do an oil change at 1500 - 2000. Just to be completely on the safe side as I dont completely trust dealers breaking in cars. Winter is coming up, what oil would you guys suggest using? 

I feel as if this has already been answered, but I don't feel as if there is a clear answer.


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

Dmilone34 said:


> My atlas is not even at 500miles yet and looking to do an oil change at 1500 - 2000. Just to be completely on the safe side as I dont completely trust dealers breaking in cars. Winter is coming up, what oil would you guys suggest using?
> 
> I feel as if this has already been answered, but I don't feel as if there is a clear answer.


Go to Wal-Mart and buy a 0w40 oil such as Castrol Edge 0w40, Mobil 1 0w40, or Pennzoil 0w40, which ever is on sale, and/or has manufacturer rebate. Pennzoil has a rebate right now.


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## GTINC (Jan 28, 2005)

BsickPassat said:


> Go to Wal-Mart and buy a 0w40 oil such as Castrol Edge 0w40, Mobil 1 0w40, or Pennzoil 0w40, which ever is on sale, and/or has manufacturer rebate. Pennzoil has a rebate right now.


Buy only if if they have the proper VW approvals marking printed on the bottle.


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

BsickPassat said:


> Go to Wal-Mart and buy a 0w40 oil such as Castrol Edge 0w40, Mobil 1 0w40, or Pennzoil 0w40, which ever is on sale, and/or has manufacturer rebate. Pennzoil has a rebate right now.


^This. 


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## ice4life (Nov 6, 2017)

First oil change is 10k miles? VW used to have the included maintenance which was 10k, but they said that it was on you to come in earlier if you wanted an oil change before the free maintenance schedule. 

Now that there is no more free maintenance, is it recommended to go in at 10k still, or is 5k // 7500 better to start?


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## juched (Nov 12, 2004)

TeamAtlas said:


> When you hit 15k and go in for your change, let me know and I'll send you a sampling kit. If we could get this data it would be really great!


How much oil is needed for a sampling kit?

I don’t put on that many Kms, so it may be a while. 


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## Chris4789 (Nov 29, 2017)

*Anyone have pictures, tool lists and best practices on Atlas Oil Change?*

I see a lot of good discussion on oil in this thread but no list of an oil change routine. Search shows this as the only oil change thread. Does anyone have pictures, tool lists, tricks, things to avoid, best practices, etc. to do this oil change?
Thanks for the help on this.


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

Chris4789 said:


> I see a lot of good discussion on oil in this thread but no list of an oil change routine. Search shows this as the only oil change thread. Does anyone have pictures, tool lists, tricks, things to avoid, best practices, etc. to do this oil change?
> Thanks for the help on this.


Search oil change routine on Passat V6 or Touareg V6 (I would say it would be same routing on those cars).


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

juched said:


> How much oil is needed for a sampling kit?
> 
> I don’t put on that many Kms, so it may be a while.
> 
> ...


https://www.blackstone-labs.com/free-test-kits.php
Absolutely order TBN and TAN to be done.


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## OZ.IN.USA (Jan 29, 2011)

Dmilone34 said:


> My atlas is not even at 500miles yet and looking to do an oil change at 1500 - 2000. Just to be completely on the safe side as I dont completely trust dealers breaking in cars. Winter is coming up, what oil would you guys suggest using?
> 
> I feel as if this has already been answered, but I don't feel as if there is a clear answer.


"_I dont completely trust dealers breaking in cars._"t

Not sure what your concern is here. Dealers "don't break in cars".

What oil to use? Lift your hood. On the front panel to the left of the hood latch, there is a sticker with the oil recommendations on it. I would suggest using what the manufacturer requires, considering they have spent quite a large amount of money on engineering and testing.

What interval to follow? Every 12 months or 10k miles/16000 kms. Again...what the manufacturer requires, considering they have spent quite a large amount of money on engineering and testing.


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## ice4life (Nov 6, 2017)

OZ.IN.USA said:


> "_I dont completely trust dealers breaking in cars._"t
> 
> Not sure what your concern is here. Dealers "don't break in cars".
> 
> ...


Clearly you're a tech, so back to my question: should I do a 5k break in oil change or are 10k intervals always going to be fine for the long run? I didn't keep my Passat vr6 longer than a year so it didn't seem relevant. I plan on keeping this one the full 6 year warranty period.


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

ice4life said:


> Clearly you're a tech, so back to my question: should I do a 5k break in oil change or are 10k intervals always going to be fine for the long run? I didn't keep my Passat vr6 longer than a year so it didn't seem relevant. I plan on keeping this one the full 6 year warranty period.


Do 7.5k OCI at maximum. 
Again, look that report above. VR6 are fuel dilution monsters and nothing will change that. 
I would do 5k OCI and send sample to the Blackstone. However do TAN and TBN test of sample. 
10k in VR6 on American fuel is laughable. 


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## ice4life (Nov 6, 2017)

edyvw said:


> 10k in VR6 on American fuel is laughable.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


This is what I was thinking. I learned to drive a while back before synthetic took off and my intervals were always 3k miles. When I started with synthetic (on my RR after a year or so of regular oil), that was when i started going about 7500 miles. 

When I got my first VW- the 2012 passat, that was the first time i saw a 10k interval. Since VW was providing the maintenance, and since it was a lease, I was not as concerned. However, 10k seems like it is planned obsolescence for these motors. If I do 7500 intervals at the dealer, will it count as keeping with the maintenance schedule?


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## GTINC (Jan 28, 2005)

ice4life said:


> .....However, 10k seems like it is planned obsolescence for these motors....


Can you provide details? What will happen at 10k miles if the vehicle is being road driven and not on a race track?


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

ice4life said:


> This is what I was thinking. I learned to drive a while back before synthetic took off and my intervals were always 3k miles. When I started with synthetic (on my RR after a year or so of regular oil), that was when i started going about 7500 miles.
> 
> When I got my first VW- the 2012 passat, that was the first time i saw a 10k interval. Since VW was providing the maintenance, and since it was a lease, I was not as concerned. However, 10k seems like it is planned obsolescence for these motors. If I do 7500 intervals at the dealer, will it count as keeping with the maintenance schedule?


Atlas comes with free maintenance? If it does, no! They will do only every 10k. What I did with BMW is change at 5k on my own and then do 10k at dealer. 
But, I do 5k OCI on Tiguan and Tiguan engine is diluting less then VR6. I did several analysis on Tiguan and CC i had using Mobil1 0W40, Mobil1 5W30 ESP (this was test to see how low-SAPS oil, VW 504.00/507.00 would do. It barely made 3k), Pennzoil Ultra 5W40 and Castrol 0W30. All kept very good kinematic viscosity ( in 5k M1 0W40 went from 13.5cst to 13.3cst). However, TBN rapidly deteriorated, especially M1 0W40. It went from 11.8 to 2.7 in 5k. Once TBN drops below 1, you are out of additives and oxidation will start. That is all privilage of high sulfur gas in the US. 
Now, VW jumped on the fact that starting 01/01/2017 EPA made very laxed sulfur requirements bit less laxed. While in Europe sulfur levels are MAX at 10ppm for both diesel and gas, in US is 15ppm for diesel and average of 10 for gas. So devil is in the details. Average means that all batches manufacturer makes have to be at average of 10ppm. Since bulk of gas is sold in CA, and CA has much stricter sulfur levels then EPA requires, manufacturer can sell ultra low sulfur gasoline in CA, but up to 90ppm in other states as long as they meet average. Having new ruling VW now is moving vehicles to VW504.00/507.00 which makes meeting CAFE requirements easier. In CA will work, but good luck if you use high sulfur gas in other states. 
If I had Atlas in garage, I would do 5k period, not a mile over. 


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## ice4life (Nov 6, 2017)

edyvw said:


> Atlas comes with free maintenance? If it does, no! They will do only every 10k. What I did with BMW is change at 5k on my own and then do 10k at dealer.
> But, I do 5k OCI on Tiguan and Tiguan engine is diluting less then VR6. I did several analysis on Tiguan and CC i had using Mobil1 0W40, Mobil1 5W30 ESP (this was test to see how low-SAPS oil, VW 504.00/507.00 would do. It barely made 3k), Pennzoil Ultra 5W40 and Castrol 0W30. All kept very good kinematic viscosity ( in 5k M1 0W40 went from 13.5cst to 13.3cst). However, TBN rapidly deteriorated, especially M1 0W40. It went from 11.8 to 2.7 in 5k. Once TBN drops below 1, you are out of additives and oxidation will start.
> If I had Atlas in garage, I would do 5k period, not a mile over.
> 
> ...


No I clearly said that it no longer came with the maintenance. I just don't want to run into warranty issues down the road for not following the correct maintenance schedule. It sounds like I should consider getting 5k changes since they are all out of my pocket, and then the 10k schedule will be spot on (i will just be doing the additional ones off schedule).


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

ice4life said:


> No I clearly said that it no longer came with the maintenance. I just don't want to run into warranty issues down the road for not following the correct maintenance schedule. It sounds like I should consider getting 5k changes since they are all out of my pocket, and then the 10k schedule will be spot on (i will just be doing the additional ones off schedule).


Changing oil at 5k cannot void your warranty. Changing oil in your garage cannot void warranty! 
Read this: https://www.consumer.ftc.gov/articles/0138-auto-warranties-routine-maintenance
As long as you use VW502.00 you can lift car on jack and change it at parking lot! 


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## OZ.IN.USA (Jan 29, 2011)

ice4life said:


> Clearly you're a tech, so back to my question: should I do a 5k break in oil change or are 10k intervals always going to be fine for the long run? I didn't keep my Passat vr6 longer than a year so it didn't seem relevant. I plan on keeping this one the full 6 year warranty period.


Not a tech but I am a firm believer of what the manufacturer recommends and a break-in oil change is not required.

My ownership of 5 VWs with over 100k miles and following what the manufactures recommends with no engine issues, gives me enough evidence to follow that.

My current Jetta 1.8T is going to be 15 years old next month with 149k miles. Engine issues? An ignition coil went bad at 60k miles and a valve cover gasket leaked at 90k miles.

But do what makes you feel good about the ownership of your car. Sometimes paying a little extra for peace of mind is priceless.


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## TeamAtlas (Oct 17, 2017)

I think the question was about interval, and that's really the core of the post (interval is what I would consider a "routine"). 

I actually agree with edyvw that 5k mile intervals are the way to go (especially if you intend to keep your engine past warranty). Do every second at the dealer to get your stamp. Use a VW502 oil and everything will be hunky dory. I did dump the dealer oil since I wanted to see what was going on in my motor (and found it to be near the low limit on the spec).

So there it is, Vw502 every 5k miles (7500km) and you're gravy. Do em yourself and they're cheap insurance. 

edyvw, in your test, did the Castrol outperform the Mobil 1 in TBN deterioration?


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

OZ.IN.USA said:


> Not a tech but I am a firm believer of what the manufacturer recommends and a break-in oil change is not required.
> 
> My ownership of 5 VWs with over 100k miles and following what the manufactures recommends with no engine issues, gives me enough evidence to follow that.
> 
> ...


1.8 T 20V or so called sludge bomb? 
If you bought it when VW was recommending just “quality” oil you would probably be part of that law suit where they had to shell out bunch of money to owners. 
I had 1.8T engine in Passat B5.5, made some 134k as far as I remember. Engine was in mint condition, Castrol 0W30 always used. 
My friend had Audi A4 1.8T, used Mobil1 5W30 that is specd for Japanese and American cars (synthetic). At 80k sludge bomb destroyed engine. 
According to VW at that time, he was actually using much better oil then they recommended. 


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

TeamAtlas said:


> I think the question was about interval, and that's really the core of the post (interval is what I would consider a "routine").
> 
> I actually agree with edyvw that 5k mile intervals are the way to go (especially if you intend to keep your engine past warranty). Do every second at the dealer to get your stamp. Use a VW502 oil and everything will be hunky dory. I did dump the dealer oil since I wanted to see what was going on in my motor (and found it to be near the low limit on the spec).
> 
> ...


Yes, Castrol (0W30) had less TBN loss. That was known issue on Mobil1 0W40 at that time, though ridiculously stout kinematic viscosity (13.5cst new, to 13.3 after 5k). 
New GTL based Mobil1 0W40 FS has higher starting TBN (I think 12.3) to address that issue. But then more TBN means more CBU (not particular problem on VR6 as on TSI). 
Castrol 0W40 has same formula as Castrol 0W40 except viscosity modifiers. 


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

TeamAtlas said:


> I think the question was about interval, and that's really the core of the post (interval is what I would consider a "routine").
> 
> I actually agree with edyvw that 5k mile intervals are the way to go (especially if you intend to keep your engine past warranty). Do every second at the dealer to *get your stamp.* Use a VW502 oil and everything will be hunky dory. I did dump the dealer oil since I wanted to see what was going on in my motor (and found it to be near the low limit on the spec).
> 
> ...


Just to make this clear.
In the United States one DOES NOT need stamp by the dealer that you changed oil, or coolant, or brake fluid or DEF (in case of diesel) etc. 
The consumer is protected by Magnusson-Moss Act enacted in Congress. There is no manual or manufacturer that can say otherwise. 
You can change oil in parking lot, as long as one uses VW 502.00, everything is fine. The burden is on the manufacturer to prove you did not fallow recommendation, but manufacturer cannot say: I am voiding warranty because oil was not changed at the dealership. 
I for example always change in both cars oil in garage. BMW is still under warranty (CPO) and BMW never refused warranty claim because I used different oil (still LL-04 approved) or DEF that I bought in Wal Mart. I use MANN air filters, Mahle fuel filters, and all emission issues that plague diesel cars with SCR system were always acknowledge by BMW and changed. Only thing I buy at the dealer is oil filter. I even change brake fluid in my garage, and BMW cannot do anything about it in case I warrant brake parts. 
So as long as one uses approved parts or fluid, everything is fine. Now, one will get from dealer stupid answers and guidelines such as: use 5W40 not 0W40 (which clearly indicates that they understand oil science in similar manner like some extinct African language), you have to buy brake systems only in VW etc, etc, etc.


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## ice4life (Nov 6, 2017)

edyvw said:


> Just to make this clear.
> In the United States one DOES NOT need stamp by the dealer that you changed oil, or coolant, or brake fluid or DEF (in case of diesel) etc.
> The consumer is protected by Magnusson-Moss Act enacted in Congress. There is no manual or manufacturer that can say otherwise.
> You can change oil in parking lot, as long as one uses VW 502.00, everything is fine. The burden is on the manufacturer to prove you did not fallow recommendation, but manufacturer cannot say: I am voiding warranty because oil was not changed at the dealership.
> ...


I get that the consumer is protected, but give me a break if vw decides to Deny a warranty claim that's their right in certain cases too. And trust me with the touareg they had a field day denying claims since I was the second owner and apparently the first owner didn't follow the dealers recommended def schedule. I thought all the records were there, but I could not find them when needed as he gave me so many docs and in the end I paid almost $3k to replace the entire def unit. So you're only as protected as you think you are. I didn't know to check for def records as it was my first diesel. Just a lesson for me.


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## ice4life (Nov 6, 2017)

edyvw said:


> 1.8 T 20V or so called sludge bomb?
> If you bought it when VW was recommending just “quality” oil you would probably be part of that law suit where they had to shell out bunch of money to owners.
> I had 1.8T engine in Passat B5.5, made some 134k as far as I remember. Engine was in mint condition, Castrol 0W30 always used.
> My friend had Audi A4 1.8T, used Mobil1 5W30 that is specd for Japanese and American cars (synthetic). At 80k sludge bomb destroyed engine.
> ...


My 1999 Saab 95 se 2.3t had sludge at 90k. The engine seized in a matter of 30 seconds on the highway. Bam! Oil light didn't even come on until the last 5 seconds. But this was a notorious problem and the engines were so cheap I just did a swap.


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## OZ.IN.USA (Jan 29, 2011)

edyvw said:


> 1.8 T 20V or so called sludge bomb?
> If you bought it when VW was recommending just “quality” oil you would probably be part of that law suit where they had to shell out bunch of money to owners.
> I had 1.8T engine in Passat B5.5, made some 134k as far as I remember. Engine was in mint condition, Castrol 0W30 always used.
> My friend had Audi A4 1.8T, used Mobil1 5W30 that is specd for Japanese and American cars (synthetic). At 80k sludge bomb destroyed engine.
> ...


_"1.8 T 20V or so called sludge bomb?"_

This statement applies to the Passat and the sludge issue was on the longitude mounted (Passat) not transverse mounted engines (Jetta. Golf, GTI).

Almost 15 years and 150,000 miles later, I am very very happy with this engine.


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## OZ.IN.USA (Jan 29, 2011)

edyvw said:


> Just to make this clear.
> In the United States one DOES NOT need stamp by the dealer that you changed oil, or coolant, or brake fluid or DEF (in case of diesel) etc.
> The consumer is protected by Magnusson-Moss Act enacted in Congress. There is no manual or manufacturer that can say otherwise.
> You can change oil in parking lot, as long as one uses VW 502.00, everything is fine. The burden is on the manufacturer to prove you did not fallow recommendation, but manufacturer cannot say: I am voiding warranty because oil was not changed at the dealership.
> ...



You are correct. Thank you for putting out the facts and not an opinion. 

Anyone one wager if they can find anywhere in any Volkswagen owners manual that maintenance MUST be performed by an approved dealer?


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## ice4life (Nov 6, 2017)

OZ.IN.USA said:


> You are correct. Thank you for putting out the facts and not an opinion.
> 
> Anyone one wager if they can find anywhere in any Volkswagen owners manual that maintenance MUST be performed by an approved dealer?


It doesn't have to be done by an approved dealer, but it does state that if you bring it to a non approved dealer/shop and something they do causes another issue, that the issue is not covered.


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

ice4life said:


> I get that the consumer is protected, but give me a break if vw decides to Deny a warranty claim that's their right in certain cases too. And trust me with the touareg they had a field day denying claims since I was the second owner and apparently the first owner didn't follow the dealers recommended def schedule. I thought all the records were there, but I could not find them when needed as he gave me so many docs and in the end I paid almost $3k to replace the entire def unit. So you're only as protected as you think you are. I didn't know to check for def records as it was my first diesel. Just a lesson for me.


I told you, all is laid out in Magnusson Moss Act. 
I seriously do not understand what is DEF schedule? Either you have DEF and you can drive or you do not and ECU prevents you from starting the car. DEF is DEF. VW DEF is no better then Wal Mart one, and law protects you. 
BMW never, never raised an issue whether I use their DEF or not, nor they can. And no, you are not protected as one think. Law is pretty straightforward. 
Now, are dealers going to try to rear end you? Absolutely! You supposed to call Frank Azar 


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## Don® (Oct 11, 2011)

Motul and Liqui Moly are great oils.

VW recommending 0W-30 is to try and satisfy the EPA.
This VR6 motor is ancient and from what I know having owned them in the past, it never needed 0W-30 before.

Castrol I'm not a fan of, Mobil 1 0W-40, not bad.

ZERO Weight in my opinion is appropriate for when temperatures are below -18°C year round.

For me, these are my two best...

502.00 Spec
https://products.liqui-moly.com/leichtlauf-high-tech-5w-40-3.html
https://www.motul.com/us/en-US/products/8100-x-cess-5w40

504.00 Spec oils
https://products.liqui-moly.com/top-tec-4200-5w-30-2.htm
https://www.motul.com/us/en-US/products/8100-x-clean-5w30--2


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

Don[emoji768 said:


> ;109006817]Motul and Liqui Moly are great oils.
> 
> VW recommending 0W-30 is to try and satisfy the EPA.
> This VR6 motor is ancient and from what I know having owned them in the past, it never needed 0W-30 before.
> ...


VW504.00/507.00 in VR6 with all that fuel?
I used Liqui Moly 15 years ago in Europe and was one of the worst oils. 
Not sure how is better then Castrol 0W30/40 but one thing is fir sure, Liqui Moly spends more on advertisement that they are German company then actually to make oil. 
And people fall for that. Big Made in Germany letters in front, for average oil. 


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## Don® (Oct 11, 2011)

edyvw said:


> VW504.00/507.00 in VR6 with all that fuel?
> I used Liqui Moly 15 years ago in Europe and was one of the worst oils.
> Not sure how is better then Castrol 0W30/40 but one thing is fir sure, Liqui Moly spends more on advertisement that they are German company then actually to make oil.
> And people fall for that. Big Made in Germany letters in front, for average oil.
> ...


I'm sticking to the 502.00 spec.

LiquiMoly (Lubromoly) from 15 years ago may have been ****ty oil, but there's plenty of VOA and UOA's and other data on this oil showing how well it currently performs.
I use both Motul and Liqui and have never had any issues, reports always come back with great results.


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

Don[emoji768 said:


> ;109007537]I'm sticking to the 502.00 spec.
> 
> LiquiMoly (Lubromoly) from 15 years ago may have been ****ty oil, but there's plenty of VOA and UOA's and other data on this oil showing how well it currently performs.
> I use both Motul and Liqui and have never had any issues, reports always come back with great results.


They have approvals, no doubt about it. 
Motul is good oil, however not worth of money. X-Cess has very high kinematic viscosity for such a low HTHS. Castrol, Mobil1, Pennzoil, Valvoline achieve same HTHS with thinner oils. On top of that one will pay it much more then ones I mentioned that are available in any auto parts store and Wal Mart for super low price. 
The golden rule in using oil is: as think as necessary as thin as possible. 
When it comes to VW504.00/507.00 why mentioning then? Someone will think it is appropriate oil for VR6. 

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## Don® (Oct 11, 2011)

edyvw said:


> They have approvals, no doubt about it.
> Motul is good oil, however not worth of money. X-Cess has very high kinematic viscosity for such a low HTHS. Castrol, Mobil1, Pennzoil, Valvoline achieve same HTHS with thinner oils. On top of that one will pay it much more then ones I mentioned that are available in any auto parts store and Wal Mart for super low price.
> The golden rule in using oil is: as think as necessary as thin as possible.
> When it comes to VW504.00/507.00 why mentioning then? Someone will think it is appropriate oil for VR6.
> ...


I mentioned it because the owners manual and under the hood recommends 502.00/504.00 LOL. I was quite surprised to see it actually


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

Don[emoji768 said:


> ;109008977]I mentioned it because the owners manual and under the hood recommends 502.00/504.00 LOL. I was quite surprised to see it actually


It is one of those VW things where they recommend several different stuff for same application. 
I think they just copied manual from UK when it comes to oils. 
VW since 1997 is having issue recommending right oils. They faced class action suit for that, yet they still cannot figure out how to put same specification label on engine and in manual. 


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## Don® (Oct 11, 2011)

edyvw said:


> It is one of those VW things where they recommend several different stuff for same application.
> I think they just copied manual from UK when it comes to oils.
> VW since 1997 is having issue recommending right oils. They faced class action suit for that, yet they still cannot figure out how to put same specification label on engine and in manual.
> 
> ...


When I saw that, I thought to myself wtf is going on...what now.


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## GiddyGTI (Sep 28, 2005)

Is the filter located top or bottom?

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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

GiddyGTI said:


> Is the filter located top or bottom?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


Bottom front


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## yukijpn (Sep 20, 2017)

Hi,

Now my Atlas has over 1,000 miles after purchase in November 2017 and I am supposed to top up engine oil based on owner manual probably for an amount of 1 quart. I talked to dealership and they recommended to top up Castrol Edge 5W-40 as it is the oil they originally filled. But I wanted to top up Castrol Edge 0W-40 as it is much easier to get and much cheaper. Can anyone advise if it would be okay ? Or I should be better to wait until 5K to replace entire amount without topping up a quart now ?


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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

yukijpn said:


> Hi,
> 
> Now my Atlas has over 1,000 miles after purchase in November 2017 and I am supposed to top up engine oil based on owner manual probably for an amount of 1 quart. I talked to dealership and they recommended to top up Castrol Edge 5W-40 as it is the oil they originally filled. But I wanted to top up Castrol Edge 0W-40 as it is much easier to get and much cheaper. Can anyone advise if it would be okay ? Or I should be better to wait until 5K to replace entire amount without topping up a quart now ?


Your owners manual says it came with 0w-30....


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## GTINC (Jan 28, 2005)

yukijpn said:


> Hi,
> 
> Now my Atlas has over 1,000 miles after purchase in November 2017 and I am supposed to top up engine oil based on owner manual probably for an amount of 1 quart. I talked to dealership and they recommended to top up Castrol Edge 5W-40 as it is the oil they originally filled. But I wanted to top up Castrol Edge 0W-40 as it is much easier to get and much cheaper. Can anyone advise if it would be okay ? Or I should be better to wait until 5K to replace entire amount without topping up a quart now ?


There is no issue with mixing oil grades as long as they are both from the same base type.


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

yukijpn said:


> Hi,
> 
> Now my Atlas has over 1,000 miles after purchase in November 2017 and I am supposed to top up engine oil based on owner manual probably for an amount of 1 quart. I talked to dealership and they recommended to top up Castrol Edge 5W-40 as it is the oil they originally filled. But I wanted to top up Castrol Edge 0W-40 as it is much easier to get and much cheaper. Can anyone advise if it would be okay ? Or I should be better to wait until 5K to replace entire amount without topping up a quart now ?


Castrol 0W40 is much better then 5W40 that dealership uses. 0W30 that VW used in Atlas appears to be very thin which indicates that it is probably ACEA A5/B5 and you will not find that oil anywhere. It is probably based on new VW508.00/509.00 specification. I would dump oil and put Castrol 0W40. Also, before that you might have a conversation with dealership why you car is using that much oil. 


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## GTINC (Jan 28, 2005)

edyvw said:


> ..... Also, before that you might have a conversation with dealership why you car is using that much oil.....


How have you determined the vehicle is using oil? Just based on unverified comment?


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## ribbit (Jun 4, 2012)

I have had my dealer change the oil in all my VW cars,mostly diesels on a 10k mileage basis, never had the oil light come on for low oil . They charge a reasonable price for the work, I guess I'm lucky to have a good dealer. I'm talking 4 different cars from new.


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

edyvw said:


> Castrol 0W40 is much better then 5W40 that dealership uses. 0W30 that VW used in Atlas appears to be very thin which indicates that it is probably ACEA A5/B5 and you will not find that oil anywhere. It is probably based on new VW508.00/509.00 specification. I would dump oil and put Castrol 0W40. Also, before that you might have a conversation with dealership why you car is using that much oil.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


508.00/509.00 is 0w20

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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

BsickPassat said:


> 508.00/509.00 is 0w20
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


You are right. Probably just ACEA A5/B5 or VW506.00 based on that oil report unless VR6 is ridiculously diluting oil. But considering some members talking about rising consumption with VW502.00 I would say VW used thinner oil then what advisees owners to use. 



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## AudiVW guy (Feb 7, 2006)

Don® said:


> When I saw that, I thought to myself wtf is going on...what now.


same here.. but when you pop the hood - big sticker says use 502 - so use 502.. 
i was confused myself when i read the manual.


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

edyvw said:


> You are right. Probably just ACEA A5/B5 or VW506.00 based on that oil report unless VR6 is ridiculously diluting oil. But considering some members talking about rising consumption with VW502.00 I would say VW used thinner oil then what advisees owners to use.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Unless when the engine is assembled, VW put in GC 0w30

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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

BsickPassat said:


> Unless when the engine is assembled, VW put in GC 0w30
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


If that is the case that means in that UOA it went from 12.1cst to 9.5cst (something like that) in what? 1k? 
Others saying that their consumption increased once using VW502.00 and engine is less responsive. Switching from GC to some other VW502.00 will not result in consumption increases or sluggishness. You know very well that GC is very heavy W30 and engine will not be any less or more responsive using 0W30 or 0W40 Castrol or Pennzoil or M1. 


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## Don® (Oct 11, 2011)

AudiVW guy said:


> same here.. but when you pop the hood - big sticker says use 502 - so use 502..
> i was confused myself when i read the manual.


Does yours say to use only 502 on the sticker or both?

Here's what mine looks like...


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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

Don[emoji768 said:


> ;109634089]Does yours say to use only 502 on the sticker or both?
> 
> Here's what mine looks like...


Mine is the same as yours


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## standerby (Nov 27, 2017)

0macman0 said:


> Mine is the same as yours
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Is there any Youtube video how to change the oil? Is it good idea to replace the drain plug with a valve? Want to prepare for my first oil change in summer. Thanks.


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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

standerby said:


> Is there any Youtube video how to change the oil? Is it good idea to replace the drain plug with a valve? Want to prepare for my first oil change in summer. Thanks.


I’ve never heard of putting on a valve. Really easy. Use Torx sockets to take of the underbody aero, drain oil, drain filter housing, replace filter element. Make sure for the love you use a torque wrench, unless you like breaking things. I used a 3/8 drive for the engine drain bolt. 1/4 drive for the filter cap and cap drain bolt.


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## standerby (Nov 27, 2017)

0macman0 said:


> I’ve never heard of putting on a valve. Really easy. Use Torx sockets to take of the underbody aero, drain oil, drain filter housing, replace filter element. Make sure for the love you use a torque wrench, unless you like breaking things. I used a 3/8 drive for the engine drain bolt. 1/4 drive for the filter cap and cap drain bolt.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


As a first time Atalas and VW owner I need to know where these things are. I have worked on several different brands. They all hide in different places. Some are easier than others.


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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

standerby said:


> As a first time Atalas and VW owner I need to know where these things are. I have worked on several different brands. They all hide in different places. Some are easier than others.


Same here. I want to say I watched Tuareg oil change tutorials. The oil filter is the only thing different than most other vehicles

1) remove drain bolt in filter cap to drain filter housing. I can’t remember the exact torque value but it’s like 10 nm I think
2) remove filter cap with massive socket.. 26mm I think?
3) pop filter element from cap.
4) replace o ring on cap
5) pop new element into cap (it snaps in)
6) screw cap by hand into housing
7) torque to value written on cap (25nm?)

Just double check the torque values beforehand


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

standerby said:


> As a first time Atalas and VW owner I need to know where these things are. I have worked on several different brands. They all hide in different places. Some are easier than others.


I am not sure whether drain screw is torx, but if it is, replace that POS with normal one. Just get normal in local VW dealership. 


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## AudiVW guy (Feb 7, 2006)

Don® said:


> Does yours say to use only 502 on the sticker or both?
> 
> Here's what mine looks like...


mine says 502 as i have the vr6


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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

AudiVW guy said:


> mine says 502 as i have the vr6


Both for VR6 here


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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

edyvw said:


> I am not sure whether drain screw is torx, but if it is, replace that POS with normal one. Just get normal in local VW dealership.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Drain plug is standard metric bolt. Under-plate fasters are torx.


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

0macman0 said:


> Drain plug is standard metric bolt. Under-plate fasters are torx.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Just saying since VW at one point was installing torx on oil pan. It was a mess. 


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

0macman0 said:


> I’ve never heard of putting on a valve. Really easy. Use Torx sockets to take of the underbody aero, drain oil, drain filter housing, replace filter element. Make sure for the love you use a torque wrench, unless you like breaking things. I used a 3/8 drive for the engine drain bolt. 1/4 drive for the filter cap and cap drain bolt.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Fumoto drain valve. NO issues on the old passat 2.0t after 43 oil changes

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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

BsickPassat said:


> Fumoto drain valve. NO issues on the old passat 2.0t after 43 oil changes
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


Sounds convenient, I’ve just never heard of it. Link?


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## AudiVW guy (Feb 7, 2006)

0macman0 said:


> Both for VR6 here
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


bizarre - not sure what to say.. mine say 502
this is what happens when you build it in north america lol


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

I snapped the owners manual page at the dealership the other day

https://flic.kr/p/JGeJXk

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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

BsickPassat said:


> I snapped the owners manual page at the dealership the other day
> 
> https://flic.kr/p/JGeJXk
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


VW 504.00 is like 100X harder to find then VW502.00 and should only be used in VR6 under extraordinary circumstances. 


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

edyvw said:


> VW 504.00 is like 100X harder to find then VW502.00 and should only be used in VR6 under extraordinary circumstances.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


504.00/507.00 is easier to find than 0w30 502.00 oil. Lots of places sell Mobil 1 ESP 5w30.

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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

BsickPassat said:


> 504.00/507.00 is easier to find than 0w30 502.00 oil. Lots of places sell Mobil 1 ESP 5w30.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


I know. I am using M1 5W30 ESP in BMW. But, it is around $12 in regular stores per bottle (if they stock) and $109 for 12ltr on Amazon (where VW502.00 Castrol 0W30 is also available). 
But I think it is long established that VW502.00 matters not grade. 
In the end, I would really like to see how many VW dealerships use 0W30. 


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## vwbugstuff (Mar 27, 2004)

This thread reminds me of the "What Grade of Oil Should I Use" in the Aircooled Forum or the "What Tires Should I Get" in the Eurovan Forum. opcorn:


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

I think using whatever the dealer uses is more than adequate to get a long life from this vehicle. The oil change intervals are 10K so whatever spec VW has must be good enough for that.


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## Pnvwfun (Jan 22, 2018)

My manual states that 0W-30 oil that meets VW502.00 is recommended. It also says that if you need to add some oil between changes and can't find any that meets the spec, use no more than 1/2 quart of 5W-30 or 5W-40. I just changed my oil at 9462 miles with Castrol Edge 0W-30, that meets ACEA A3/B4, VW502.00/505.00, MB 229.3/229.5. It even says "European Formula" on it, available from my nearest Oreillys by ordering at the store or calling and having it delivered to the store. I put a Napa Gold filter that is equivalent to the OEM filter. I took a sample to send in for analysis just to see if I need to shorten the interval next time.

The thing I don't know how to do is to reset the mileage reminder for the next 10K service. It keeps telling me I have 600 miles until the next service. Does anybody know how to reset that?


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

Pnvwfun said:


> My manual states that 0W-30 oil that meets VW502.00 is recommended. It also says that if you need to add some oil between changes and can't find any that meets the spec, use no more than 1/2 quart of 5W-30 or 5W-40. I just changed my oil at 9462 miles with Castrol Edge 0W-30, that meets ACEA A3/B4, VW502.00/505.00, MB 229.3/229.5. It even says "European Formula" on it, available from my nearest Oreillys by ordering at the store or calling and having it delivered to the store. I put a Napa Gold filter that is equivalent to the OEM filter. I took a sample to send in for analysis just to see if I need to shorten the interval next time.
> 
> The thing I don't know how to do is to reset the mileage reminder for the next 10K service. It keeps telling me I have 600 miles until the next service. Does anybody know how to reset that?


That Castrol was for a long time favorite among Euro enthusiasts. But you are wasting your money. Use Castrol 0W40 from Wal Mart. It is same formula as 0W30 except viscosity modifiers. Difference in thickness is marginal. 0W30 is 12.1cst while 0W40 is 12.85 at 100. VW again, AGAIN managed to confuse owners with oil. 
In the end, ANY VW502.00 will do work and you have three good oils available in Wal Mart that meet VW502.00: Pennzoil Euro 0W40, Mobil1 0W40 and Castrol0W40. 
If you pay more for oil then what would you spend on these three ($22-$26 for 5qt) you are wasting your money. 


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

KarstGeo said:


> I think using whatever the dealer uses is more than adequate to get a long life from this vehicle. The oil change intervals are 10K so whatever spec VW has must be good enough for that.


Sorry, 10k OCI in VR6 is fools errand. 
Take a look of UOA in this thread and where is oil viscosity after such short run. If you going to dump this car after lease, yeah. If it is keeper, 5-7k Oci using W40 oil, 5k using W30. 


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## AudiVW guy (Feb 7, 2006)

so i phoned VW canada - and they have said that the owners manuals are wrong and will be reprinted lol 

they said to use VW 502 SPECS - 5W-40
but based on our climate i will use 0w-40

talk about a real phuck up.. they don't inspire confidence any longer.


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

AudiVW guy said:


> so i phoned VW canada - and they have said that the owners manuals are wrong and will be reprinted lol
> 
> they said to use VW 502 SPECS - 5W-40
> but based on our climate i will use 0w-40
> ...


I told you they are confusing customers. 
HOWEVER, and this is really, really important. 
Go back and look report of oil (UOA) in this thread. If that is 5W40 oil that thinned out so much, then that is a BIG problem that is confined only to that one engine in that specific Atlas, or it is just good ole VR6 being what it has been before, a huge diluting monster.


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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

AudiVW guy said:


> so i phoned VW canada - and they have said that the owners manuals are wrong and will be reprinted lol
> 
> they said to use VW 502 SPECS - 5W-40
> but based on our climate i will use 0w-40
> ...


Typo huh? That’s a big mistake. So basically the manual so far has been good as garbage.

Recommended oil? Anyone’s guess...
Fuse locations? Sorry!


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

0macman0 said:


> Typo huh? That’s a big mistake. So basically the manual so far has been good as garbage.
> 
> Recommended oil? Anyone’s guess...
> Fuse locations? Sorry!
> ...


Only thing that is correct there is VW502.00 
Any 0W40 from Wal Mart will doo.
But, one can go to dealership. They will fallow manual


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## AudiVW guy (Feb 7, 2006)

edyvw said:


> I told you they are confusing customers.
> HOWEVER, and this is really, really important.
> Go back and look report of oil (UOA) in this thread. If that is 5W40 oil that thinned out so much, then that is a BIG problem that is confined only to that one engine in that specific Atlas, or it is just good ole VR6 being what it has been before, a huge diluting monster.


read the manual it said to use 0-30!!!!
which is brutal- that is what is scary .. seriously what kind of manual says mix 502 and 504 and use 5-40 or 0-30
total **** up


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

What I recall about my 2000 Jetta 2.0 was that if you didn't use the VW oil spec 5w-40 (I used Mobile 1...wasn't a common grade) and instead used 5w-30, it would consume large quantities of oil over a 5-10K change interval. Is that what is happening here with the 0w-30 vs. 0w-40 and you are saying dealers don't use the 0w-40?


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

KarstGeo said:


> What I recall about my 2000 Jetta 2.0 was that if you didn't use the VW oil spec 5w-40 (I used Mobile 1...wasn't a common grade) and instead used 5w-30, it would consume large quantities of oil over a 5-10K change interval. Is that what is happening here with the 0w-30 vs. 0w-40 and you are saying dealers don't use the 0w-40?


You are mixing ILSAC GF oils like M1 5W30 with ACEA A3 oils. 0W40 oil will not be consumed more or less. I use Castrol 0W40 in Tiguan and never uses a drop. On top of that all 0W40 pils are of higher quality then Castrol 5W40 dealers are using. 


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## Pnvwfun (Jan 22, 2018)

KarstGeo said:


> What I recall about my 2000 Jetta 2.0 was that if you didn't use the VW oil spec 5w-40 (I used Mobile 1...wasn't a common grade) and instead used 5w-30, it would consume large quantities of oil over a 5-10K change interval. Is that what is happening here with the 0w-30 vs. 0w-40 and you are saying dealers don't use the 0w-40?


I really don't know what the dealer uses, I was just going by the manual. It actually says that consumption up to a quart of oil every 1200 miles is normal and it can consume more in the first 3000 miles, but mine did not consume any oil, and I checked it often. I think oil consumption is not a bad thing because you're constantly replenishing the old oil with fresh stuff. 

I think I'll do a 5K sample and plan on changing to 0W40 after that. I just wish I knew how to reset the reminder notice that keeps popping up.


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

Pnvwfun said:


> I really don't know what the dealer uses, I was just going by the manual. It actually says that consumption up to a quart of oil every 1200 miles is normal and it can consume more in the first 3000 miles, but mine did not consume any oil, and I checked it often. I think oil consumption is not a bad thing because you're constantly replenishing the old oil with fresh stuff.
> 
> I think I'll do a 5K sample and plan on changing to 0W40 after that. I just wish I knew how to reset the reminder notice that keeps popping up.


I do 5k in Tiguan and BMW. BMW is diesel and since US has ULSD it might be overkill, but whatever. However, in these VW engines that dilute, especially first generation FSI like VR6, 5k IMO is maximum OCI. 
Who thinks that CW has best intentions prescribing 10k oci they should remind themselves that VW already had class action law suit because of wrong oil and OCI thry prescribed for Passat B5 1.8T. 
As for manual, they probably copied from Audi S models in rush to get Atlas on the market. 


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## Pnvwfun (Jan 22, 2018)

Could it be possible that they want it to use oil so you keep adding it to freshen it up, extending the OCI to 10K, or is that statement in the manual about using oil just a cover your ass disclaimer? It didn't happen in my case. Maybe they actually put 0W40 in it at the factory. I still have a 2006 Ford Freestyle that used a quart of 0W20 oil every 2500 miles from day one, and I did 10K oil changes that tested out good all the way to 9K (Mobil 1 EP), probably because it had 3 newer quarts of oil in it by then after each oil change. 

I'm sending out my oil sample to Blackstone today.


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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

Pnvwfun said:


> I really don't know what the dealer uses, I was just going by the manual. It actually says that consumption up to a quart of oil every 1200 miles is normal and it can consume more in the first 3000 miles, but mine did not consume any oil, and I checked it often. I think oil consumption is not a bad thing because you're constantly replenishing the old oil with fresh stuff.
> 
> I think I'll do a 5K sample and plan on changing to 0W40 after that. I just wish I knew how to reset the reminder notice that keeps popping up.


Most manufacturers state this and consider these levels of oil consumption normal (I know Honda does), and it’s well known that it is generally higher at first. Driving style will also have a huge effect on this.

I wouldn’t read to much into consumption, besides you should check your oil level regularly.




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## AudiVW guy (Feb 7, 2006)

Pnvwfun said:


> I really don't know what the dealer uses, .


Castrol Edge Professional Oil change 5w40 Synthec VW502.00 Required
that is what VW canada dealers are using.


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## Ryan E. (Oct 1, 2002)

Pnvwfun said:


> I really don't know what the dealer uses, I was just going by the manual. It actually says that consumption up to a quart of oil every 1200 miles is normal and it can consume more in the first 3000 miles, but mine did not consume any oil, and I checked it often. I think oil consumption is not a bad thing because you're constantly replenishing the old oil with fresh stuff.
> 
> I think I'll do a 5K sample and plan on changing to 0W40 after that. I just wish I knew how to reset the reminder notice that keeps popping up.


I normally use VCDS to clear the service reminder on my MKV R.


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## Ryan E. (Oct 1, 2002)

AudiVW guy said:


> Castrol Edge Professional Oil change 5w40 Synthec VW502.00 Required
> that is what VW canada dealers are using.


Living in California I have always used 5w-40 and 502 approved in my 3.2 VR6 (Castrol, Torco or Motul). I’ll stick with the same for our Atlas.


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## edyvw (May 1, 2009)

AudiVW guy said:


> Castrol Edge Professional Oil change 5w40 Synthec VW502.00 Required
> that is what VW canada dealers are using.


Only thing required is VW 502.00. NOT particular oil! 
Many VW dealers are using Valvoline 5W40 MST that also meets VW 502.00. 



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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Ok...confused. You are saying that any oil meeting the VW 502.00 spec is the magic bullet regardless of the grade? Is the 0W-30 listed in the manual then incorrect i.e. there aren't any oils out there in 0W-30 that meet VW 502.00? I will shoot an email to the dealer I bought our Atlas from and find out what they use.


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

KarstGeo said:


> Ok...confused. You are saying that any oil meeting the VW 502.00 spec is the magic bullet regardless of the grade? Is the 0W-30 listed in the manual then incorrect i.e. there aren't any oils out there in 0W-30 that meet VW 502.00? I will shoot an email to the dealer I bought our Atlas from and find out what they use.


castrol makes a VW502.00 0w30 oil.

https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-0624...8&qid=1517187798&sr=8-1&keywords=castrol+0w30

as well as Mobil 1
https://www.mobil.com/English-CN/Passenger-Vehicle-Lube/pds/APZHMobil-1-FS-0W30

as well as Liqui Moly and Ravenol


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

BsickPassat said:


> castrol makes a VW502.00 0w30 oil.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-0624...8&qid=1517187798&sr=8-1&keywords=castrol+0w30
> 
> ...


Ok, so the manual saying that 0W-30 VW 502.00 is correct.


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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

KarstGeo said:


> Ok, so the manual saying that 0W-30 VW 502.00 is correct.


Manual says the factory fill was 0w-30, but other viscosities are suitable as long as they are 502 / 504 compliant. I asked two different dealers and they both said 5w-40 Castrol 502

I may try the Mobile ESP 5w-30 504 at some point.

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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

0macman0 said:


> Manual says the factory fill was 0w-30, but other viscosities are suitable as long as they are 502 / 504 compliant. I asked two different dealers and they both said 5w-40 Castrol 502. I ended up with Mobil 1 0w-40 that is 502.
> 
> I may try the Mobile ESP 5w-30 504 at some point.
> 
> ...





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## AudiVW guy (Feb 7, 2006)

KarstGeo said:


> Ok...confused. You are saying that any oil meeting the VW 502.00 spec is the magic bullet regardless of the grade? Is the 0W-30 listed in the manual then incorrect i.e. there aren't any oils out there in 0W-30 that meet VW 502.00? I will shoot an email to the dealer I bought our Atlas from and find out what they use.


manual is incorrect basically VW HQ told me that and said use 5w-40 502 spec


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

AudiVW guy said:


> manual is incorrect basically VW HQ told me that and said use 5w-40 502 spec


I wonder what does the Toureg manual say for the same motor?


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

AudiVW guy said:


> manual is incorrect basically VW HQ told me that and said use 5w-40 502 spec


If you scroll through the "Think Blue" screens, under fuel economy, it encourages the use of thinner weight oils for maximizing fuel economy. 

When will VW send out an updated page for the owners manual or issue a TSB?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Chatted with the service manager at the dealer I got our Atlas at. They say they use 5W-40 that meets VW 502.00 at the dealership for the VR6. They re-stated what the manual says that the factory-fill in the motor is 0W-30.


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## Shiki87 (Jul 3, 2017)

Just changed oil today on mine with 5w40 Motul 8100 x-clean. 
Has 300 miles on the clock, didn't have time to do it before.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

So what is everyone doing w/r to OCIs? I've decided I'm going with 5K b/c we only drive 10K/year and it's just not that expensive. On my old Jetta, I only did 10K when I was doing a 100% highway commute so >20K/per year driving. Dealer says they use VW 502.00 5W-40 which seems to be good per the consensus here.


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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

5K, I don’t trust longer intervals for a long term vehicle being driven in circumstances that probably fit under severe use


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## Shiki87 (Jul 3, 2017)

I’ll have peace of mind with 5k miles max. For 60-70$ it’s not worth delaying it.
P.S. drive muuuuuuch smoother after initial change. Definitely like it more!


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## walksonair (Aug 29, 2017)

Though my manual says to do it every 10K w/ 502 spec oil, I am doing the oil change every 5K. Question for everyone: can I get away with just changing the filter at 10K..meaning skip changing the filter every other oil change?

Also, I got this to make my oil changes super easy: http://amzn.to/2GDEpb2 But because the oil pan drain plug is recessed it needed an adapter so here's that as well: http://amzn.to/2BNskwE


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## EPilot (Jul 27, 1999)

walksonair said:


> Though my manual says to do it every 10K w/ 502 spec oil, I am doing the oil change every 5K. Question for everyone: can I get away with just changing the filter at 10K..meaning skip changing the filter every other oil change?


Not sure the point in changing the oil every 5k if you aren't going to change the filtering aspect of the oiling system. 
The synthetic oil's viscosity and makeup isn't going to change much at all in 5k. It's over kill.


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## Ryan E. (Oct 1, 2002)

I wouldn't recommend waiting on the filter change till 10k, the fresh oil will be contaminated, effort and cost are low to swap out too.

This is a nice to have too:

https://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-...&qid=1517507030&sr=8-7&keywords=oil+funnel+vw














walksonair said:


> Though my manual says to do it every 10K w/ 502 spec oil, I am doing the oil change every 5K. Question for everyone: can I get away with just changing the filter at 10K..meaning skip changing the filter every other oil change?
> 
> Also, I got this to make my oil changes super easy: http://amzn.to/2GDEpb2 But because the oil pan drain plug is recessed it needed an adapter so here's that as well: http://amzn.to/2BNskwE


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

Ryan E. said:


> I wouldn't recommend waiting on the filter change till 10k, the fresh oil will be contaminated, effort and cost are low to swap out too.
> 
> This is a nice to have too:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-...&qid=1517507030&sr=8-7&keywords=oil+funnel+vw


$60 for a glorified funnel? No thanks. It'll stick to the cheap plastic funnels from Wal-Mart.


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## Pnvwfun (Jan 22, 2018)

Got my sample report back and it looks pretty good.


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## TiGeo (Apr 7, 2008)

Pnvwfun said:


> Got my sample report back and it looks pretty good.


So 5k miles on the factory fill 502.00 0W30? Any consumption?

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## Pnvwfun (Jan 22, 2018)

TiGeo said:


> So 5k miles on the factory fill 502.00 0W30? Any consumption?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Sorry, I tried to upload the report image and it failed. It was taken at 9462 miles with zero consumption. Here are the exact details:

Comments: Don't be alarmed by the aluminum, copper and silicon. A lot of the metal is simply from normal wear-in. Silicon is from harmless sealers. In all honesty, this report looks pretty good for factory oil in use almost 10,000 miles. Universal averages show typical wear levels for this type of engine after about 6,000 miles on the oil. You should see improvements next time. The TBN shows active additive left for a longer run. Try 12,000 miles on the next oil if you want, though it's a good idea to stick to VW's recommended interval while the engine is under warranty.

Important properties:
cSt Viscosity @ 100°C - 10.52 (normal range is 9.4-12.4 for 0W-30)
Fuel % - <0.5
TBN - 2.9

I'll try to upload the actual report image. I plan on doing another report after 7,000 miles on this oil change, and depending on that report, I'll either change it then or go to 10,000 if it looks good.


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## TiGeo (Apr 7, 2008)

Wow. So good data-based support for VWs recommendation. And...some metals well yeah...break in. That's what the filter is for.

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## Chris4789 (Nov 29, 2017)

*Spec Sheets for Mobile 1 and Castrol Edge 0w-30 that meet 502 standard*

My manual and the engine sticker say to use 0w-30 – VW 502 standard oil. I found spec sheets for Mobile 1 and Castrol Edge 0w-30 that say they meet that 502 standard. Mobile 1 is available at my Walmart for $26 per 5 Quarts, single quarts are also available. They have free shipping over $35 so you could easily order it. 
The dealer charged me $15.75 for a VW filter which is not too bad. 

Below info is from the attached spec sheets:
Mobil 1 FS 0W-30 has the following builder approvals:
MB-Approval 229.3
MB-Approval 229.5
VW 502 00/505 00

CASTROL EDGE 0W-30
MEETS OR EXCEEDS INDUSTRY STANDARDS:
ACEA C3
API SN
VW 502 00/ 505 00
BMW Longlife-04

Spec sheets in PDF are here:
https://imgur.com/JwwhJd7
https://imgur.com/LFbPYaI


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## Pnvwfun (Jan 22, 2018)

*UOA Report*



TiGeo said:


> Wow. So good data-based support for VWs recommendation. And...some metals well yeah...break in. That's what the filter is for.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


The Blackstone report for my oil at 9462 miles, hopefully it's viewable now


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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

Chris4789 said:


> My manual and the engine sticker say to use 0w-30 – VW 502 standard oil. I found spec sheets for Mobile 1 and Castrol Edge 0w-30 that say they meet that 502 standard. Mobile 1 is available at my Walmart for $26 per 5 Quarts, single quarts are also available. They have free shipping over $35 so you could easily order it.
> The dealer charged me $15.75 for a VW filter which is not too bad.
> 
> Below info is from the attached spec sheets:
> ...


Where are you at? I haven’t been able to find the 0w-30 Mobil at any of them, just the 0w-40. I’ll probably run the 40 in the summer but I would run the 30 in the winter.


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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

Pnvwfun said:


> The Blackstone report for my oil at 9462 miles, hopefully it's viewable now


I can’t see it ;(


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Pnvwfun (Jan 22, 2018)

0macman0 said:


> I can’t see it ;(
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Try this
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/26209963198/in/dateposted-public/


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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

Pnvwfun said:


> Try this
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/26209963198/in/dateposted-public/


That did the trick, looks great! Was there any towing over that 10K or hard use?


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## Chris4789 (Nov 29, 2017)

*502 spec Oil 0w-30*



0macman0 said:


> Where are you at? I haven’t been able to find the 0w-30 Mobil at any of them, just the 0w-40. I’ll probably run the 40 in the summer but I would run the 30 in the winter.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I am in Pleasanton, 30 miles SE of San Francisco


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## Pnvwfun (Jan 22, 2018)

0macman0 said:


> That did the trick, looks great! Was there any towing over that 10K or hard use?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Towed a boat once for about 20 miles total. My miles tend to be more freeway than city driving with an extended period average of 21 MPG at an average speed of 31 mph. I drive conservatively most of the time, but do step on it when needed.


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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

Pnvwfun said:


> Towed a boat once for about 20 miles total. My miles tend to be more freeway than city driving with an extended period average of 21 MPG at an average speed of 31 mph. I drive conservatively most of the time, but do step on it when needed.


You might be making a case for those 10K oil changes!


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## aleksl (Oct 16, 2002)

0macman0 said:


> You might be making a case for those 10K oil changes!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I frequent other boards and it's the same over on the Tacoma forums. Factory is 10k, bunch of guys don't believe the manufacturers so they do it at 5k. A few oil reports floating around on 10k intervals there (one guy is at 40k now) and each report is perfect at 10k.


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## Pnvwfun (Jan 22, 2018)

aleksl said:


> I frequent other boards and it's the same over on the Tacoma forums. Factory is 10k, bunch of guys don't believe the manufacturers so they do it at 5k. A few oil reports floating around on 10k intervals there (one guy is at 40k now) and each report is perfect at 10k.


I believe that the OCI on these particular engines is dictated by several factors. Oil and filter quality are key because the oil has to have enough additives to last that long and the filter enough media to hold the quantity of particles. I've done 10K OCI on other vehicles with OEM recommended intervals of 5K and 7.5K because I used high quality oils (Amsoil, Mobil 1 and Royal Purple) and filters (Mobil 1EP or K&N). 

Another key factor with these 3.6 VR6 engines appears to be fuel dilution, according to the experts here who've seen them have that issue before. My particular engine does not seem to have that problem according to my report. Maybe VW has fixed that issue or I just got one of the good ones. More data is probably needed and each individual owner can test their own vehicle to see if that is an issue. I think using either 0W-30 or 0W-40 that meets 502.00 will assure that a good quality oil with lots of additives is being put in that _*can*_ last 10K, so long as fuel dilution is not a problem.


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## GTINC (Jan 28, 2005)

Pnvwfun said:


> ....Another key factor with these 3.6 VR6 engines appears to be fuel dilution, according to the experts here who've seen them have that issue before......


Experts here? Seriously? Was it on FOX too.....


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## Atlas53 (Jan 29, 2018)

*OCI VW and otherwise*

Changing the oil and filter in less than 10k miles is a waste of money and resources. As stated before, if you use an oil that meets the 502 spec, and a high quality filer (I just get mine from the dealer), you are good. We had a C-class Mercedes with an oil monitoring system, and it never called for a synthetic oil change in less than 10K. That car went 160k without any oil related issues (lots of other problems, electrical and rust related especially, but that's another story). I still have a diesel Sprinter van with 240k miles on it. It also tells you when a change is needed. I've gone as far as 14k before it called for a synthetic oil change (always 0-40 Mobil 1). Both Mercedes vehicles rarely needed any oil added between changes - the Sprinter is still that way. 
We have a GTI that I've changed the oil in twice - both times at around 10K. Now at about 27k total. Doesn't use a drop. I'm using the same Mobil 1 0-40 in the GTI that I used in the Mercedes - had some in stock, and it meets the specs. At least the VW doesn't take the 9 qts needed in either Mercedes product.


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

Atlas53 said:


> Changing the oil and filter in less than 10k miles is a waste of money and resources. As stated before, if you use an oil that meets the 502 spec, and a high quality filer (I just get mine from the dealer), you are good. We had a C-class Mercedes with an oil monitoring system, and it never called for a synthetic oil change in less than 10K. That car went 160k without any oil related issues (lots of other problems, electrical and rust related especially, but that's another story). I still have a diesel Sprinter van with 240k miles on it. It also tells you when a change is needed. I've gone as far as 14k before it called for a synthetic oil change (always 0-40 Mobil 1). Both Mercedes vehicles rarely needed any oil added between changes - the Sprinter is still that way.
> We have a GTI that I've changed the oil in twice - both times at around 10K. Now at about 27k total. Doesn't use a drop. I'm using the same Mobil 1 0-40 in the GTI that I used in the Mercedes - had some in stock, and it meets the specs. At least the VW doesn't take the 9 qts needed in either Mercedes product.


The larger sump capacity in the Benz helps greatly with the oil change interval, nearly 50% larger.


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## vadimlitv (Aug 29, 2017)

Coming from a BMW. How much oil does the v6. Take?


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

vadimlitv said:


> Coming from a BMW. How much oil does the v6. Take?


Since you didn't read the thread



chipster said:


> Dropped by the dealer to pick up an OEM filter for $15 and oil at Walmart for $25 per 5-quart jug of Castrol Edge 0w-40. They didn't have a single quart of this.. So I'll have to drop by the local Oreilly or Autozone for their $9 bottle to top off to 6-quarts.
> 
> Everything went smooth except for that one stupid rivet whose center plug could no longer be found. I left it off and cursed the engineer who designed that in.
> 
> This was my first VR6 oil change. I've done old 1.8t's (lasted 227k miles) and 2.5L's (now at $93k miles) in the past. The only peeve I have is the belly pan removal


about 6 quarts


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## vadimlitv (Aug 29, 2017)

Thank you very much. I was following it for a while, before I got the atlas. Didn't remember if it was stated, and couldn't find it quickly. I will post back with the Blackstone report, although it will be a low miles one.


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## CobaltSky (Jan 16, 2018)

I've been watching prices for a while now. Today at Amazon this just dropped from $26 to $21. I stocked up.

Castrol EDGE 0W-40 A3/B4 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil, 5 quart, 1 pack


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## Daekwan (Nov 5, 2017)

0macman0 said:


> You might be making a case for those 10K oil changes!


Amazing aint it. Its almost like the guys who actually built the Atlas.. know alot more about what it needs to run than a bunch of random guys on the internet who may or may have not purchased one


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

The OCI debate is always interesting. Oil-related engine issues are rare in the scope of large populations of vehicles. How many people know of folks that ever had a motor not last as long as was desired due to the type of oil, filter, or OCI? On the other hand, I am sure we all know someone who took their XYZ car to Jiffy Lube for 10 years every ~5K and got over 200K out of the motor using regular non-syn motor oil and crappy filters; my father-in-law is one of them. How many people keep their cars longer than 5 years (typical warranty) before trading them in? How many of the long life cars had oil changed at a short interval after purchase to "remove all the metal shavings"? Very few is my guess. How many of these long life cars were babied for the first few thousand miles to “break them in correctly”? Just stuff to keep in mind. I like oil nerds (sorry…enthusiasts!) and do enjoy the discussion. I won't be changing the Atlas oil on my own b/c I just don't need to anymore but have done lots of DYI oil changes and do actually enjoy it; going to the store and picking the filter/oil is somewhat fun. If you think XYZ oil and a particular OCI makes your car run/last longer great! But the data will show that it really doesn't matter that much unless you just go hog wild and don't change for several years or use the completely wrong oil. I am quite sure whatever oil the dealers are using/manufacturer recommends is more than adequate for a long service life in this vehicle, at least as long as most will ever keep it. I have had plenty of vehicles with north of 100K miles and never in my life had any engine issues related to lubrication (or know anyone that has) doing basically what the manufacturer recommended in terms of OCI and oil type.


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## AudiVW guy (Feb 7, 2006)

So i just changed my oil at 11890KMs this is the second oil change first was at 4700KMs.
this time i used 0-40w Mobile 1 VW 502.. 
fingers crossed it improves my economy - as the last oil change it was 0-30w 502 pennzoil based on the owners manual which we now know is incorrect according to VW


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## GTINC (Jan 28, 2005)

AudiVW guy said:


> So i just changed my oil at 11890KMs this is the second oil change first was at 4700KMs.
> this time i used 0-40w Mobile 1 VW 502..
> fingers crossed it improves my economy - as the last oil change it was 0-30w 502 pennzoil based on the owners manual which we now know is incorrect according to VW


Changing the oil or the grade of oil will make a negligible fuel usage change that you will not notice.


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## Atlas53 (Jan 29, 2018)

*First DIY oil change in the Atlas - 9200 miles*

Well, they didn't make it easy! Thought I'd do it today, as the weather is decent and I may have to take a trip that will put me over the 10k point. Pulled the Atlas up on ramps to remove the bottom body panel. 11 small torx screws, 3 torx45 fasteners. One at front center has a plastic bracket below it and in the way. Drilled a 1/4" hole so that I could get the torx screwdriver in straight on. One thing I noticed right away is that there is no drain plug. Looked all around the sump - there is a sensor mounted in the bottom of the sump. Are you supposed to remove that? Not an issue to me, as I use a suction tank and pull it out of the dipstick tube, but to many that would be the end of this effort.
http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/Atlasalfa/media/cGF0aDovSU1HXzA4MjFfenBzc3ExcnJnZ3ouanBn/?ref=1
Backed car off ramps to level. Put a drain pan under the car. Good thing as the oil filter housing has a drain plug in it. Remove with an Allen wrench, and about 1/2 liter comes out. Now, removing the housing requires a very large socket. I'd assumed the 32mm I use on my GTI would work, but this is bigger, around 36mm or more. I used channel locks - no option at this point (arrgh). Filter element pulls off of the housing. I bought the replacement at the dealer, and it has an o-ring already fitted at the top of the filter, and you push the filter firmly into place. You change the o-ring on the housing body and reinstall. 
It took 6 qts of Mobil 1 0-40 to fill. Reinstalling the underbody panel is straightforward - note the front edge clips alternate under and over the plastic edge that they fit over.
I was thinking that I would cut a hole in the underbody panel for future access to the oil filter, and screw a panel cut out of aluminum over it. Decided against it this time, but may do that in the future.


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## Atlas53 (Jan 29, 2018)

*First DIY oil change in the Atlas - 9200 miles - addendum*

Oh yeah, there's one more fastener on the underbody panel. It's one of those goofy bodywork fasteners that you insert then push a plastic rod into to expand. Someone else mentioned this in a previous rod. Like them, I pushed the rod in, it released, and then it disappeared forever. Not needed, IMO. I think VW puts it there just to intimidate anyone who has the audacity to want to remove this panel themselves.


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## Atlas53 (Jan 29, 2018)

KarstGeo said "I am sure we all know someone who took their XYZ car to Jiffy Lube for 10 years every ~5K and got over 200K out of the motor using regular non-syn motor oil and crappy filters;"

I remember a mention in Car & Driver back in the 80's about a guy who bought a new Monte Carlo and didn't open the hood for 30k miles. He decided to change the oil when the oil light started to take a little longer to go out.


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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

There is a drain plug. I used it to drain my oil when I did my atlas, and I can see it in your picture on the back of the pan.


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## GTINC (Jan 28, 2005)

Atlas53 said:


> ........One thing I noticed right away is that there is no drain plug. Looked all around the sump - there is a sensor mounted in the bottom of the sump. *Are you supposed to remove tha*t?....


How would you drain from that if it is not at the bottom of the oil pan? :screwy:


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## walksonair (Aug 29, 2017)

I added the following to my drain pan so that future oil changes are easier. It needed an adapter which is the second link due to the recessed pan position. https://amzn.to/2ILIfAh https://amzn.to/2DQZQmq


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## CobaltSky (Jan 16, 2018)

Question: Getting ready for my first Atlas oil change. Haven't crawled under the vehicle yet to check. Can I use a top side type fluid extractor for the oil change and change the filter without ever having to remove the belly pan that everyone complains about? Or does that block access to the filter as well?

Next question: If it is possible to do what I asked, is it advisable?


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## GTINC (Jan 28, 2005)

CobaltSky said:


> Question: Getting ready for my first Atlas oil change. Haven't crawled under the vehicle yet to check. Can I use a top side type fluid extractor for the oil change and change the filter without ever having to remove the belly pan that everyone complains about? Or does that block access to the filter as well?
> 
> Next question: If it is possible to do what I asked, is it advisable?


The filter question depends on the engine you have. Never a good idea to "top side" the oil removal as this leaves water and sludge in the sump.


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## Pnvwfun (Jan 22, 2018)

CobaltSky said:


> Question: Getting ready for my first Atlas oil change. Haven't crawled under the vehicle yet to check. Can I use a top side type fluid extractor for the oil change and change the filter without ever having to remove the belly pan that everyone complains about? Or does that block access to the filter as well?
> 
> Next question: If it is possible to do what I asked, is it advisable?


There is no way to remove the filter without removing that pan. I had to put it on my ramps to have enough room to get under there. It wasn't that bad.


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## GTINC (Jan 28, 2005)

Pnvwfun said:


> There is no way to remove the filter without removing that pan.....


What about the 2.0t? That engine in the Golf has topside filter replacement.


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## CobaltSky (Jan 16, 2018)

Pnvwfun said:


> There is no way to remove the filter without removing that pan. I had to put it on my ramps to have enough room to get under there. It wasn't that bad.


Thank you! I won't bother with purchasing an extractor then. Just use my ramps. Probably get a fumoto instead. I had that on the CX-9 we traded in.


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## CobaltSky (Jan 16, 2018)

walksonair said:


> I added the following to my drain pan so that future oil changes are easier. It needed an adapter which is the second link due to the recessed pan position. https://amzn.to/2ILIfAh https://amzn.to/2DQZQmq


Anyone know if the SX Series Fumoto needs the externder as well on the Atlas? F106SX


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## walksonair (Aug 29, 2017)

I would assume so because the oil plug is screwed into a recessed portion of the oil pan...


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## kkress (Sep 11, 2017)

Anyone know of a good, recommended oil for Atlas 2.0T? Dealer was recommending 5W40 but I thought that was more for the VR6. Then they thought 0W20 for the turbo. Not feeling very confident in them. I'm used to the TDI's that have VW 504/507 spec called out. The Castrol or Mobil 0W30 or 0W40 are looking good to me.


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

kkress said:


> Anyone know of a good, recommended oil for Atlas 2.0T? Dealer was recommending 5W40 but I thought that was more for the VR6. Then they thought 0W20 for the turbo. Not feeling very confident in them. I'm used to the TDI's that have VW 504/507 spec called out. The Castrol or Mobil 0W30 or 0W40 are looking good to me.


The ThinkBlue recommendations recommend a 30-weight fuel for fuel economy.

0w20 is for the Tiguan and other ea888-3B engines (VW508/509).

0w40 is readily available at Wal-Mart, ie Castrol Edge 0w40

Castrol 0w30 (which is VW502.00 certified) is available online such as Amazon.

Mobil 1 0w30 doesn't meet VW 502.00 requirements for HTHS, so I would not necessarily use it.


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## Pnvwfun (Jan 22, 2018)

The 0w40 Castrol Edge and Mobil 1 European formulas both meet VW502.00 and are available at Walmart, and much less expensive than the 0w30 Castrol from Amazon. I don't even think there is an 0w20 that is VW502 approved.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Ok, so reading the manual again tonight, here is what I take away:

Oil meeting VW502.00 is the most important factor.

Comes factory filled with 0W-30 (presumably Castrol) that is VW502.00.

If you can't get 0W-30, go with a 5W-30 or 5W-40 meeting VW502.00 OR if you are really in a pinch, a VW504.00 oil.

My dealer (and it seems like most) are using Castrol 5W-40.

Doesn't look you like Castrol 0W-30 European blend is 1) common and 2) comes in a larger 5 qt size.

Is anyone using Castrol (or others...Liqui Moly etc.) 0W-30?

Someone said that VW made a mistake in the manual...what exactly is incorrect?


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## Rafale (Sep 14, 2017)

I used Castrol Edge 0W-30 product code 467680 for my first oil change.

I got the 6 pack from Amazon


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## GTINC (Jan 28, 2005)

KarstGeo said:


> ....Someone said that VW made a mistake in the manual...what exactly is incorrect?


Does this "somebody" know anything about it? :screwy:


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## sayemthree (Mar 2, 2006)

There is a article out there by the owner of Blackstone lab and in his opinion does not really matter which oil you use as long as you change it at the proper interval.


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## sayemthree (Mar 2, 2006)

sayemthree said:


> There is a article out there by the owner of Blackstone lab and in his opinion does not really matter which oil you use as long as you change it at the proper interval.



https://jalopnik.com/why-expensive-oil-is-a-waste-of-money-1797241527


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

sayemthree said:


> https://jalopnik.com/why-expensive-oil-is-a-waste-of-money-1797241527


Of course...how many cars have you heard of having lubrication as the primary cause of engine issues if the oil was changed regularly? Zero or close to it.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## DIRANONI (Jun 21, 2006)

*20,000 miles*


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

What type of oil consumption are folks seeing?

Mine has 5,900 miles on it and I haven't changed the oil yet so factory fill. I am seeing ZERO consumption on the dipstick. I will note that to get an accurate reading, I need the vehicle to be cold....even 5-10 minutes after shut-down I don't see the same level as I do after an over-night.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

DIRANONI said:


>


They usually have commentary...do you have it? Always interesting to read it.


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## Pnvwfun (Jan 22, 2018)

*New Report before 20K change*

I did a new oil sample at almost 18K to see how it was doing. No problem at all. The first time I sampled at my first oil change, there was no oil consumption. This time it was about a half quart low after I extracted my sample. Did not change it at that time but will do so soon. Notice that the report shows 0W30 oil was used when I changed and the viscosity range on the factory fill was the same, so that's also what VW must have used (like the manual says).

oil report


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## dgleeds (Jun 29, 2013)

Pretty annoying retention clip, not sure why it's there, replaced with an upgrade. Otherwise pretty straight forwad oil change. Went with 0w40 Castrol(you know it's the logo on your filler cap). Castrol is clearly recommended by VW and matches all 4 specs.


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## walksonair (Aug 29, 2017)

dgleeds said:


> Pretty annoying retention clip, not sure why it's there, replaced with an upgrade.


Can you share what upgrade you went with for the retention clip?


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## dgleeds (Jun 29, 2013)

walksonair said:


> Can you share what upgrade you went with for the retention clip?












Got from Autozone or Advanced auto parts, no need to break anymore. Got the ones labeled Nissan, as they were wider than the generic ones.



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## walksonair (Aug 29, 2017)

dgleeds said:


> Got from Autozone or Advanced auto parts, no need to break anymore. Got the ones labeled Nissan, as they were wider than the generic ones.


Nice! Thanks for sharing. I'll pick up a few soon...

And ditto on the oil. I get from Wallymart when on sale but last time I got from Amazon Prime which matched Walmart and free shipping. https://amzn.to/2KR9HQR Keep an eye out for the $20 special prices...


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## Chris4789 (Nov 29, 2017)

*VW Part Number for the "Rivet"*

The Rivet (as VW calls it) in post #236 is VW P/N N-038-549-4 $2.25; If you want to use the OEM part. If the center pin is not pushed all the way in, the rivet is easy to remove and re-use. If the pin gets pushed in too far & is flush it is tougher to remove.


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## dgleeds (Jun 29, 2013)

Chris4789 said:


> The Rivet (as VW calls it) in post #236 is VW P/N N-038-549-4 $2.25; If you want to use the OEM part. If the center pin is not pushed all the way in, the rivet is easy to remove and re-use. If the pin gets pushed in too far & is flush it is tougher to remove.


Yeah, definitely not using that clip again. Too difficult to remove, replacement has exact purpose and can be removed without any issues. Took like ten minutes just to get that clip off and it broke. Bad design IMO, I have had 10 VWs and none have had that holding belly pan. I honestly wonder if it’s not sipped to even be replaced, maybe it’s just used to aid during assembly ???


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## Chris4789 (Nov 29, 2017)

*My Atlas V6 Oil Change Routine*

The VR6 filter is accessed under the car at the front of the engine. I take pictures to document the oil change for warranty purposes. Keep receipts on oil, filter, pugs, etc. Organize it in one place.
-Pic of Mileage
-I Rotate the Tires at the same time while all 4 wheels are up: 
Loosen lug nuts; Lug Nut Trim wire tool (from trunk by the Atlas jack); Lug nut wrench
-Put Atlas up on Jack Stands; (4) Floor Jacks; Hockey Puck spacers (to lift at weld points); (4) Jack stands
-Remove the bottom body panel; screws (15) T25 Torx; *(3) T45 Torx; I put masking tape at each screw for this first time to be sure I can find where they all go.
One T25 screw at the center front has a plastic bracket below it and in the way. As suggested by another post, I Drilled a 1/4" hole so that I could get the Torx screwdriver in straight on.
Drill the hole prior to the oil change and it can save a little time. 
-Remove Rivet (rear center of the panel) –pull out the center post and the rivet will release the panel. 
I believe the rivet is used to hold up the rear end of the pan once the front tabs are engaged during re-assembly. With the rivet in place it is easy to insert all the T25 screws.
-Note the front edge clips of the body panel alternate under and over the plastic edge mark them so you call tell easily which way they go. 
-Spread Newspaper; Drop cloth; Drain Pan
-Remove Drain Plug from Oil Pan; *19mm socket; Pic of oil draining Let drain. Some previous posts had questions on the location of the plug so I have a couple of Pics showing it. 
-Replace Drain Plug, It screws in at an angle so be patient and get it right; VW recommends a new plug at each change as the crush washer is not removable. Or: Gold Plug Magnetic plug is AP-08, Replaceable Crush Washer:14mm. 19mm socket; * Torque 30 Nm torque
-Remove Filter Canister Plug: *6mm Allen Hex bit (Bottom of canister); *Channel Lock Pliers (to hold Canister; Be ready with container to catch oil; about a pint comes out. 
-Inspect canister Plug “O” ring (VW P/N N-904-054-02) & Replace plug; Torque 10 Nm on Canister Plug. Replacing the plug now keeps a little oil from running down your arm as you remove the canister.
-Remove Canister: 36mm Canister Socket*& 6” extension. Note the placement of the “O” ring so you know where it goes.
-Replace Canister Filter “O” ring (incl. with filter); Snap filter in canister VW Oil Filter 03H 115 562 ; lube threads & seal with new oil; Pic of new filter
-Install Canister & Filter; Torque 25Nm on filter housing;*
-Add 5.8 Qts. of your preferred VW spec 502.00 Oil. Pic of oil being added; Start engine; Inspect for leaks; Check dipstick level
-Re-install under body panel (Remember the front edge clips alternate under and over the plastic edge), use Rivet to hold end of body panel while positioning
*-Reset service Reminder*:* Ignition*off; Hold trip reset button; turn on Ignition (foot OFF brake);* "Reset Oil?" flashes on screen; Let go of trip button; 
press again;* "The service Interval was reset" should appear;* Check on Infotainment Center;* Car; Setup:* scroll down to service;*
look at “mileage to next service”; I turned the car on and off again for it to read correctly. *https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMcKtkv8XEw
-Rotate tires; Pic of tires being rotated
-I Hope this makes it easier for a few people, it will go very fast the second time you do it. 

Location of hole to drill to Remove Screw holding Body Panel









Body Panel Rivet and Part Number









Body Panel Pan and Location of Screws









Body Panel Tabs









Oil Drain Plug









Oil Draining and Paper to Deflect it









VW OEM Drain Plug and Gold Plug Replacement









Oil Filter Canister and Canister Drain Plug


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

That Mobil 1 0W30 isn't a VW502 oil?


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Not trying to derail your excellent write up but the one you have in your picture (Advanced Fuel Economy 0W30 that you can get at Walmart etc.) is this one below shown on their site and VW502 is not listed. That one you have listed says "China"...different oil. It will list it on the bottle. This will most certainly not be good for maintenance of the warranty. The only 0W30 meeting VW502 I know about is made by Castrol and you have to order it..others? Post #226 is good for this discussion. For Mobil 1 its their 0W40 or 5W40 euro blend that are the VW502 oils










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## walksonair (Aug 29, 2017)

dgleeds said:


> Yeah, definitely not using that clip again. Too difficult to remove, replacement has exact purpose and can be removed without any issues. Took like ten minutes just to get that clip off and it broke. Bad design IMO, I have had 10 VWs and none have had that holding belly pan. I honestly wonder if it’s not sipped to even be replaced, maybe it’s just used to aid during assembly ???


Yeah I was thinking of this actually...I think its there to hold on the bottom panel after slipping into the front bumper. Then you can go about inserting all the screws around the pan...


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## Hedgehodge (Nov 7, 2008)

the bright side is, it sits higher than our GTI  I hope if they do a aluminum plate kit underneath it that they leave space for both removing filter and opening the oil drain plug along with room for the oil to pour out obviously lol


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## Pnvwfun (Jan 22, 2018)

Chris4789 said:


> Yes it is compliant to the 502 spec. I was just trying to be sensitive to all the different opinions on what oil to use that are voiced in this thread. I hoped what I think is a step by step guide to an oil change, it would help those wanting to do it but unsure of the process and what each item i.e. filter canister looked like.
> 
> Below is from the Mobile 1 website and posted elsewhere in this thread on #192.
> Mobile 1 0W-30 Oil meets VW 502 00/505 00
> ...


This product data sheet is from the Chinese Mobil 1 website and is not what is currently sold at Walmart or Amazon. The current US version of this Advanced Fuel Economy Mobil 1 0W-30 is not called "Mobil 1 FS 0W-30". Maybe Walmart used to carry this formulation, but the label on the back of the bottle pictured on their website is not what is shown above. If you do indeed have the "FS" Chinese version, then you are correct and it meets VW502. I would check the actual bottle label that you used.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

^^^This.


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## walksonair (Aug 29, 2017)

Chris4789 said:


> -Remove Rivet (rear center of the panel) –pull out the center post and the rivet will release the panel.


Excellent write-up...just fyi that the center is to be pushed in slightly (not too far) and then the whole clip will pull out. What I did was push mine in too far and then had to push the center pin all the way out of the top so that the clip could come off...and when I did that I lost the center pin in the driveway somewhere. :banghead:


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## Chris4789 (Nov 29, 2017)

*Point Taken*



KarstGeo said:


> Not trying to derail your excellent write up but the one you have in your picture (Advanced Fuel Economy 0W30 that you can get at Walmart etc.) is this one below shown on their site and VW502 is not listed. That one you have listed says "China"...different oil. It will list it on the bottle. This will most certainly not be good for maintenance of the warranty. The only 0W30 meeting VW502 I know about is made by Castrol and you have to order it..others? Post #226 is good for this discussion. For Mobil 1 its their 0W40 or 5W40 euro blend that are the VW502 oils
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info and correction, I have ordered the Castrol Edge from Amazon and will swap it out. It shows we need to be very careful with all the different versions of 0w-30 on the shelf.


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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

I live in South Florida. I am a new owner of a 2019 VW Atlas SEL-P VR6 and noticed on the engine bay the oil label states requires oil that meets “0W-30 AND VW 504”.

I am seeing that is different than what I read in this thread.

What is going on? What oil (brand, type) will dealer put in? Is the 0W-40 still superior to 0W-30?

Any recommendations for this oil type that would also have the BMW and MB certs? I care more for protection than fuel economy since I purchased this car for the long term.


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## OZ.IN.USA (Jan 29, 2011)

Andre VW said:


> I live in South Florida. I am a new owner of a 2019 VW Atlas SEL-P VR6 and noticed on the engine bay the oil label states requires oil that meets “0W-30 AND VW 504”.
> 
> I am seeing that is different than what I read in this thread.
> 
> ...


As the last post was July, the information you read may already be outdated. 

Follow the manufacturers latest requirements which is indicated by the labels that are affixed at the time on production of your Atlas. Note that sometimes the owners manuals are also outdated so again, follow the labels on your Atlas.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Oil to be 502. Factory fill is 0w30 (meeting 502 ..rare/hard to find). Dealer will use Castrol 5w40 502 spec. The end.

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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

Andre VW said:


> I live in South Florida. I am a new owner of a 2019 VW Atlas SEL-P VR6 and noticed on the engine bay the oil label states requires oil that meets “0W-30 AND VW 504”.
> 
> I am seeing that is different than what I read in this thread.
> 
> ...


504 is 5w30 only.


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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

BsickPassat said:


> 504 is 5w30 only.


Your statement doesnt seem correct because I am well aware of oils that can meet BOTH the 0W-30 and the VW504 cert.

Below is one example:

https://www.mobil.com/English-GB/Passenger-Vehicle-Lube/pds/GLXXMobil-1-ESP-0W30


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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

KarstGeo said:


> Oil to be 502. Factory fill is 5w30 (meeti g 502 ..rare/hard to find). Dealer will use Castrol 5w40 502 spec. The end.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


I’m confused. That wouldnt meet the requirements of my 2019 model according to the label in my engine bay.


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

Andre VW said:


> Your statement doesnt seem correct because I am well aware of oils that can meet BOTH the 0W-30 and the VW504 cert.
> 
> Below is one example:
> 
> https://www.mobil.com/English-GB/Passenger-Vehicle-Lube/pds/GLXXMobil-1-ESP-0W30


Do you have a VWAG list of oils, that contradicts:

https://www.audiusa.com/content/dam...2017-Technical-Service-Bulletin-1.22.2018.pdf


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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

BsickPassat said:


> Do you have a VWAG list of oils, that contradicts:
> 
> https://www.audiusa.com/content/dam...2017-Technical-Service-Bulletin-1.22.2018.pdf



Here is one a couple years old but has at least 1 oil meeting combined 0W-30 and 504 spec.


https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11038&d=1473711760


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

Andre VW said:


> Here is one a couple years old but has at least 1 oil meeting combined 0W-30 and 504 spec.
> 
> 
> https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11038&d=1473711760


thanks

you sure you want to run a 504 oil with the 10,000 mile Oil change interval?

Florida gas has to meet ASTM D4814, and Rev C which was released October 2018, as the sulfur limit of 0.008% by mass, which translate to 80 ppm, which is not friendly to oil detergents. 504.00 oil doesn't require a high limit of detergents, which its TBN is typically in the 5-7 range, which isn't much. Best to do 5,000 mile oil change intervals, unless you want a sludged up engine, or use a 502.00 oil which has a more stout TBN good for 10,000 mile oil changes.


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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

BsickPassat said:


> thanks
> 
> you sure you want to run a 504 oil with the 10,000 mile Oil change interval?
> 
> Florida gas has to meet ASTM D4814, and Rev C which was released October 2018, as the sulfur limit of 0.008% by mass, which translate to 80 ppm, which is not friendly to oil detergents. 504.00 oil doesn't require a high limit of detergents, which its TBN is typically in the 5-7 range, which isn't much. Best to do 5,000 mile oil change intervals, unless you want a sludged up engine, or use a 502.00 oil which has a more stout TBN good for 10,000 mile oil changes.


Thanks. I appreciate that info on the ASTM spec for Florida. I enjoy hard data like that versus pontification.

I’m not sure what I should run. Thus my confusion and Thats why i came to ask here since this is a multi faceted decision and I recall reading this thread a while back when I was a lurker. Is 502 a stricter spec than 504?

My manual states 
“Your engine was factory-filled with an all-season engine oil that meets strict Volkswagen oil quality standards and has a viscosity grade of SAE 0W-30. You can use this oil for normal driving in all temperatures.”

Thinking I alternate oil change myself and dealer every 5k so I can keep my warranty also. 

So whats a good 502 spec oil for my climate and fuel quality in florida? Looking for 1 that also meets good BMW and MB specs. 

Should I be confident in my dealer using the right oil for 10k OCIs?

Should I go with the Castrol 0w-30 or Castrol 0w-40?


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Andre VW said:


> Thanks. I appreciate that info on the ASTM spec for Florida. I enjoy hard data like that versus pontification.
> 
> I’m not sure what I should run. Thus my confusion and Thats why i came to ask here since this is a multi faceted decision and I recall reading this thread a while back when I was a lurker. Is 502 a stricter spec than 504?
> 
> ...


I'll verify my comments when I get home - I believe you are correct, it's 0w30 VW502 from the factory. I guess I don't understand the confusion - VW502 5W40 like Castrol, Liqui-Moly, etc. meet the spec and is what the dealers (here) use. Why would a VW dealer not use the correct oil? There is no issue with warranty and doing your own oil changes. Keep a record (a spreadsheet)with the receipts. I can't imagine any dealer/VW giving you a hard time if you have records.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

A repost from a few pages ago - I had to re-read through this to get re-familiarized!

Ok, so reading the manual again tonight, here is what I take away:

Oil meeting VW502.00 is the most important factor.

Comes factory filled with 0W-30 (presumably Castrol) that is VW502.00.

If you can't get 0W-30, go with a 5W-30 or 5W-40 meeting VW502.00 OR if you are really in a pinch, a VW504.00 oil.

My dealer (and it seems like most) are using Castrol 5W-40.

Doesn't look you like Castrol 0W-30 European blend is 1) common and 2) comes in a larger 5 qt size.

Is anyone using Castrol (or others...Liqui Moly etc.) 0W-30?

Someone said that VW made a mistake in the manual...what exactly is incorrect?


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

Andre VW said:


> Thanks. I appreciate that info on the ASTM spec for Florida. I enjoy hard data like that versus pontification.
> 
> I’m not sure what I should run. Thus my confusion and Thats why i came to ask here since this is a multi faceted decision and I recall reading this thread a while back when I was a lurker. Is 502 a stricter spec than 504?
> 
> ...


I wouldn't be confident that the dealership will be using a 502.00 0w30, because it's likely not in VW's inventory for the dealership to order from. They are likely going to use 5w40 which they get in bulk for most of their gasoline applications.

Castrol 0w30 that meets 502.00 isn't readily available, so you'll have to order it online, say Amazon.

Castrol 0w40 A3/B4 should be readily available at Wal-Mart, and meets BMW & MB specs
the current formulation of Mobil 1 0w40 dropped the BMW LL01 certification.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

BsickPassat said:


> I wouldn't be confident that the dealership will be using a 502.00 0w30, because it's likely not in VW's inventory for the dealership to order from. They are likely going to use 5w40 which they get in bulk for most of their gasoline applications.
> 
> Castrol 0w30 that meets 502.00 isn't readily available, so you'll have to order it online, say Amazon.
> 
> ...


This.


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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

My confusion is that my 2019 engine label states 504 and 0w-30 and has the 10k OCI. Yet here everybody says that 504 oil is unobtanium, and I should be using a 502. In addition, you guys are saying that to get the 10kOCI that can only be done with a 502 oil.

So has VW messed up my engine label? Or does VW know something this forum doesnt?


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Andre VW said:


> My confusion is that my 2019 engine label states 504 and 0w-30 and has the 10k OCI. Yet here everybody says that 504 oil is unobtanium, and I should be using a 502. In addition, you guys are saying that to get the 10kOCI that can only be done with a 502 oil.
> 
> So has VW messed up my engine label? Or does VW know something this forum doesnt?


Ok, I understand your concern now. 1) can you snap a pic of the label? 2) Have you taken a look at the manual w/r to oil requirements? I am guessing a mistake on the label. Just to confirm, this is the VR6 right?


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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

It is the VR6. I will take a picture of the engine bay label and manual. I havent opened manual to be honest. Barely just got the car.

In your opinion, is the 502 spec a superior spec over 504? In what standpoint? TBN? HTHS? NOACK?


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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

Well what do you know...the engine label conflicts with the manual!!


Engine Label says 0W-30 and VW504:
http://i67.tinypic.com/11kcvbs.jpg


Engine Manual (rev Aug 2018) says 0W-30 and VW502:
http://i67.tinypic.com/33lo368.jpg


It also states that if required oil is not available use no more than half a quart of 5W-30/40. Which means dealer should not be using 5W-30/40 for a full oil change.

So which is it for me???? What is truly the better spec’d oil???


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Manual same as mine (2018 purchased in Jan). 502 is the key. 5w40 is fine per the manual and why the dealers use it. Your engine label wasn't showing up in the link. My engine label says 502 or 504. The dealers are using 502 5w40...its what I would use.









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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

Retry on the label













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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Wow...v. interesting!

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## A4MOS19 (Oct 2, 2018)

Andre VW said:


> Retry on the label
> 
> 
> 
> ...



My 2019 reads exactly the same as this. Makes me wonder if it's an actual difference in engine design between the 2 years, or just a re-think by VW of what works better. Called my dealer, and their service department is still recommending 5W-40 Castrol Full Synthetic.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

They recommend running a lighter weight oil for fuel economy is all - at least that's my story and I'm sticking to it. I believe the manual says as much.


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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

The 2019 manual says 5W-40 is only for top off of no more than half a quart only if the correct 0W-30 oil is not available.


Cant wait to go for my first oil change and have the dealer use the 5W-40, so I can show them the manual and give the dealership a piece of my mind.


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## A4MOS19 (Oct 2, 2018)

Andre VW said:


> The 2019 manual says 5W-40 is only for top off of no more than half a quart only if the correct 0W-30 oil is not available.
> 
> 
> Cant wait to go for my first oil change and have the dealer use the 5W-40, so I can show them the manual and give the dealership a piece of my mind.
> ...


So confusing for something that shouldn't be. I do my own, and unless something changes by then, my choice is going to be this. 

https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-0624...r=8-5&keywords=0W-30+full+synthetic+motor+oil


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Agreed...so much complication...most cars it's cut and dry.

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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Ok. I've sat and read my manual...again. here's my final take away and interpretation for my 2018...I realize that 2019 may be different.

1) first hurtle is 502.
2) 0w30 502 is what it came with.
3) if 0w30 502 is not a available use a 502 at a viscosity appropriate to your climate. 
4) if 502 (regardless of viscosity) is not available you can use a 504.
5) if neither 502 or 504 is available (regardless of viscosity) use a 5w40 or 5w30 meeting ACEA A3/B4 and API SN to top it off until you can get oil meeting 1-4 above.

Takeaways. 5w40 502 is just fine and absolutely meets what is lined out in the manual (my no. 3). 0w40 502 is fine and meets what is lined out in the manual (my no. 3). I think no.5 is confusing folks but that is specifically related to non-502/504 oils....5w40 is fine if it meets 502/504. No. 3 allows ANY viscosity of oil to be used (as I interpret it) as long as it's 502 or 504. Did I mention 502? 










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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Andre VW said:


> Well what do you know...the engine label conflicts with the manual!!
> 
> 
> Engine Label says 0W-30 and VW504:
> ...


I've spent some more time on this...yeah...a little strange that your engine label and book are at odds (502 vs. 504). The 2019 is definately different in that is more viscosity driven than the 2018 manual i.e. "viscosity that is appropriate for your climate" vs. "use 0w30". This is being driven by fuel economy is all based on their comment to the effect. I'd say sure, go with 502 0w30 if you can find it but 5w40 isn't going to hurt anything (the motor is the same as 2018). I think that 504 sticker is a mistake.


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## VWmuiter (Dec 16, 2018)

cgvalant said:


> Just curious, can anyone who owns an Atlas tell me where the oil filter is located? I hope it's as accessible as the one in my GTI! I want to be able to use my oil extractor and avoid crawling under the car for every change!
> 
> Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk


Had no luck finding anything on Atlas oil change and filter location. So I took these photos today. I hope these help someone.









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## VWmuiter (Dec 16, 2018)

*2018 VW ATLAS V6 SEL Premium with 4MOTION*



VWmuiter said:


> Had no luck finding anything on Atlas oil change and filter location. So I took these photos today. I hope these help someone.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


2018 VW ATLAS V6 SEL Premium with 4MOTION


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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

KarstGeo said:


> I've spent some more time on this...yeah...a little strange that your engine label and book are at odds (502 vs. 504). The 2019 is definately different in that is more viscosity driven than the 2018 manual i.e. "viscosity that is appropriate for your climate" vs. "use 0w30". This is being driven by fuel economy is all based on their comment to the effect. I'd say sure, go with 502 0w30 if you can find it but 5w40 isn't going to hurt anything (the motor is the same as 2018). I think that 504 sticker is a mistake.


Thanks. Im sure any of these oils are alright. Just annoying the literature is so confusing. Going to call VW number right on the engine label and see what they have to say about it. Ill report back. Im still at 500 miles on the car so have a long ways to go before first oil change.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Andre VW said:


> Thanks. Im sure any of these oils are alright. Just annoying the literature is so confusing. Going to call VW number right on the engine label and see what they have to say about it. Ill report back. Im still at 500 miles on the car so have a long ways to go before first oil change.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Please report back...interesting for sure to hear what they have to say! I am also curious as the actual mpg improvement going 0w30 504 vs. 5w40 or 0w40 502.


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## OZ.IN.USA (Jan 29, 2011)

Andre VW said:


> Thanks. Im sure any of these oils are alright. Just annoying the literature is so confusing. Going to call VW number right on the engine label and see what they have to say about it. Ill report back. Im still at 500 miles on the car so have a long ways to go before first oil change.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


They will most likely inform you that the label on the engine bay is correct. 

I guess it's worth repeating my last post:

_Follow the manufacturers latest requirements which is indicated by the labels that are affixed at the time on production of your Atlas. Note that sometimes the owners manuals are also outdated so again, follow the labels on your Atlas._


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

They are all over the lighter weight oil then for fuel ecomony in 2019. I'd still say you won't have any warranty concerns using 5w40 alas long as its 502.

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## KCJeep (Dec 5, 2018)

Andre VW said:


> Retry on the label
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The only oil I was able to find locally that meets the specs on your sticker was Pennzoil Platinum Euro LL 0w30 which is VW 504 rated. Advance Auto showed it in stock.

Other than that, a 0w30 (my Passat GT manual pushes 0w30 as well) that is either VW 502 or 504 (I am allowed either) is strictly a mail order affair. As mentioned your warranty has to remain intact if you use a VW approved oil. In my case I ended up changing the factory fill with Valvoline MST 5w40 which is VW 502.

I am still interested in a VW approved oil in 0w30 though and my go the order on line route next time around.


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## VWmuiter (Dec 16, 2018)

Here is what I have used in 2018 atlas v6. Manual calls for 502-00









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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

KarstGeo said:


> They are all over the lighter weight oil then for fuel ecomony in 2019. I'd still say you won't have any warranty concerns using 5w40 alas long as its 502.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Funny thing is if you check the EPA MPG ratings for 2019 vs 2018 V6 Atlas, there is a difference.

2018 is 18 city / 25 highway.

2019 is 17 city / 24 highway.



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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Andre VW said:


> Funny thing is if you check the EPA MPG ratings for 2019 vs 2018 V6 Atlas, there is a difference.
> 
> 2018 is 18 city / 25 highway.
> 
> ...


Assume not 4Motion?


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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

KarstGeo said:


> Assume not 4Motion?


4motion is unchanged for 2018 and 2019. It is still 17/23.


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## standerby (Nov 27, 2017)

Nice tutorial. It would help if I saw this before I changed mine not long ago. Thank you!


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## Pnvwfun (Jan 22, 2018)

I've changed my oil twice now, the first time with 0W30 Castrol and the last time with 0W40 Mobil1, both meeting VW502 spec. My mileage has not changed at all since I went to 0W40.


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## Hfqkhal (Oct 14, 2018)

Pnvwfun said:


> I've changed my oil twice now, the first time with 0W30 Castrol and the last time with 0W40 Mobil1, both meeting VW502 spec. My mileage has not changed at all since I went to 0W40.


This is what the sticker on my car. No oil specific info at alll











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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Exactly...use a 502 like 5w40 or 0w40 and you're golden...

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## Hfqkhal (Oct 14, 2018)

KarstGeo said:


> Exactly...use a 502 like 5w40 or 0w40 and you're golden...
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


I will be leaving that to the dealer as part of the deal that I got was free service for 3 years. At that time I will decide if it is worth buying another 3 years or not. But for now it will be their responsibility to put the correct oil in it. 


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Hfqkhal said:


> I will be leaving that to the dealer as part of the deal that I got was free service for 3 years. At that time I will decide if it is worth buying another 3 years or not. But for now it will be their responsibility to put the correct oil in it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


And they will! They will use Castrol 5W40 VW502 oil which is perfect.


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## wkmotor (Dec 28, 2018)

*Changing the Oil service interval 10k to 5 K ??*

hello everyone, 
I like ask anyone knows how to change the factory 10k miles oil service reminder down to 5k reminder setting. 
my previous Nissan Maxima which I can set the reminder to whichever the interval. 
Any suggestion or help much appreciated.


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## Hfqkhal (Oct 14, 2018)

wkmotor said:


> hello everyone,
> I like ask anyone knows how to change the factory 10k miles oil service reminder down to 5k reminder setting.
> my previous Nissan Maxima which I can set the reminder to whichever the interval.
> Any suggestion or help much appreciated.


A question. Why would you want to do that. The electronics usually tells you when which based on miles driven and time which ever comes first. Also what is being used is synthetic unlike Nissan which had the old style process of using regular oil and the 3,500/7,500 oil change process (I know this as my prior car was a Nissan Murano and that is what I hated most about it and as to why Nissan was not doing like others which caused a minimum of 2 oil changes annually). 


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## wkmotor (Dec 28, 2018)

I just asking if it is possible to change? The dealer and factory book says 10k miles for oil change I maintained a vehicle fleet services over 800+ vehicles. I understand how important an oil service is and to run it until 10k that's just too long. It would be nice we can set the services miles reminder. If not, then I just have to keep track it myself. 

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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

wkmotor said:


> I just asking if it is possible to change? The dealer and factory book says 10k miles for oil change I maintained a vehicle fleet services over 800+ vehicles. I understand how important an oil service is and to run it until 10k that's just too long. It would be nice we can set the services miles reminder. If not, then I just have to keep track it myself.
> 
> Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk


So you think that the fine engineers at VW don't know how long they can run their engines with the oil they spec?


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## wkmotor (Dec 28, 2018)

KarstGeo said:


> So you think that the fine engineers at VW don't know how long they can run their engines with the oil they spec?


Personally, I have no issue with VW engineers specs or themselves, or the oil spec calls for.
I'm just asking if anyone might know if I can change Oil services the reminder setting either with VCDS or ObdEleven or on the Digital MID? 
I not here to start an argument or offend anyone eace:! , Thank you !


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## Hfqkhal (Oct 14, 2018)

wkmotor said:


> Personally, I have no issue with VW engineers specs or themselves, or the oil spec calls for.
> I'm just asking if anyone might know if I can change Oil services the reminder setting either with VCDS or ObdEleven or on the Digital MID?
> I not here to start an argument or offend anyone eace:! , Thank you !



I totally understand and agree with you. When one responsible for a fleet then that person would want to make sure all work the best and are kept right. I have to check on my Atlas to see if one can change this setting. I am also sure a VW service person will be able to more specifically answer this and advise you the best rout for it.


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## mhjett (Oct 16, 2000)

Did an oil change in my VR6 a few days ago -- the first oil change since buying the car new in September. It was really easy and you'll spend most of your time and effort R&R-ing the gigantic belly pan -- although it's not difficult. Just lots of Torx screws. Used Castrol Edge 0w40 A3/B4 502 w/ OEM VW filter. Oddly, these 3.6 VW filters are made in China... as was the factory-installed filter.


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## wkmotor (Dec 28, 2018)

Hfqkhal said:


> I totally understand and agree with you. When one responsible for a fleet then that person would want to make sure all work the best and are kept right. I have to check on my Atlas to see if one can change this setting. I am also sure a VW service person will be able to more specifically answer this and advise you the best rout for it.


thanks, man. as for the dealer was no help they said no its how it is no change able.


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## Pnvwfun (Jan 22, 2018)

wkmotor said:


> thanks, man. as for the dealer was no help they said no its how it is no change able.


I see no need to do 5K oil changes so long as you use the VW502 spec oil. I have posted 2 Blackstone oil sample reports that prove that my vehicle is just fine with 10K intervals. I've done 10K oil changes in other vehicles that had 5K & 7.5K intervals and they are still fine. It's the quality of the oil and the filter that matter. Of course if your driving conditions are extreme, then that would be the only reason to shorten the recommended interval.


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## TWs/VW (Jan 9, 2019)

Did the recommended 5.8-Quart fill bring the Oil up to the proper fill level on the dip stick? The reason I ask is because I just saw a U-Tube video on a 2018 Atlas that did not after filter and oil change. In this example, it took almost 7 Quarts for a proper fill. Did you encounter this as well?

TWs/VW

2019 Atlas SEL 3.6 V6


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

TWs/VW said:


> Did the recommended 5.8-Quart fill bring the Oil up to the proper fill level on the dip stick? The reason I ask is because I just saw a U-Tube video on a 2018 Atlas that did not after filter and oil change. In this example, it took almost 7 Quarts for a proper fill. Did you encounter this as well?
> 
> TWs/VW
> 
> 2019 Atlas SEL 3.6 V6


Can you please post the link to the youtube video? Sounds strange to me.


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## Hfqkhal (Oct 14, 2018)

KarstGeo said:


> Can you please post the link to the youtube video? Sounds strange to me.


I believe he is talking about the same one I saw


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Looks like he over-filled it to me - oil should be within the patterned portion of the dipstick, not all the way to be bend.


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## mhjett (Oct 16, 2000)

Sent my factory-fill oil with 6500 mi on it off to Blackstone for analysis; will post up the results once they're in. 



TWs/VW said:


> Did the recommended 5.8-Quart fill bring the Oil up to the proper fill level on the dip stick? The reason I ask is because I just saw a U-Tube video on a 2018 Atlas that did not after filter and oil change. In this example, it took almost 7 Quarts for a proper fill. Did you encounter this as well?
> 
> TWs/VW
> 
> 2019 Atlas SEL 3.6 V6


Yes, I did 5.8 quarts and the oil level was right at full on the dipstick. I believe this engine in the Touraeg and Cayenne uses 7 qts, which may lead to some confusion. I also saw 7 qts listed on some VW corporate literature, oddly enough.


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## TWs/VW (Jan 9, 2019)

Thank you...that's the video I was referring to.

What's the difference in SAE 0W-30 vs. SAE 0W-40? The manual, and I believe the factory as well, used 0W-W30. I'm thinking about replacing the factory 0W-W30 with SAE 0W-40 (VW 501 00/MB 229.5) to increase the life of the engine. I live in Florida and will own this vehicle for 10-15 years (if it holds-up). I drove my last new car for 15-years and the one before that for over 12-years - the engines never wore-out. My new Atlas now has about 100 miles on it and I seriously thinking about changing the oil/filter for break-in purposes. Most of the metal deposits that are going to come off the new engine are probably already in the pan - I can't see waiting thousands of miles to do this...any thoughts?

Also, did you have to replace the crush washer on the drain plug, or was it the non-replaceable type plug.

TW


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

TWs/VW said:


> Thank you...that's the video I was referring to.
> 
> What's the difference in SAE 0W-30 vs. SAE 0W-40? The manual, and I believe the factory as well, used 0W-W30. I'm thinking about replacing the factory 0W-W30 with SAE 0W-40 (VW 501 00/MB 229.5) to increase the life of the engine. I live in Florida and will own this vehicle for 10-15 years (if it holds-up). I drove my last new car for 15-years and the one before that for over 12-years - the engines never wore-out. My new Atlas now has about 100 miles on it and I seriously thinking about changing the oil/filter for break-in purposes. Most of the metal deposits that are going to come off the new engine are probably already in the pan - I can't see waiting thousands of miles to do this...any thoughts?
> 
> ...


The important thing is the VW502 part, not the weight. Replacing the factory fill with another VW502 oil such as an 0W40 isn't going to increase the life of the engine one bit. Draining your factory fill at a 100 miles is 100% a waste of time, you have an oil filter to handle the little bits etc. that end up in the oil from break in. Your factory fill is perfectly fine for the entirety of the 10K oil change interval that is recommended which is backed by plenty of used oil analyses that can be found with some searching. Do what you want to feel good, but it really is just fine to leave it and drive. I do ours at 7.5K just b/c that works for the tire rotations (10K is too much IMHO) and I do them at the same time for convenience, not b/c I don't think the oil can't handle a 10K change interval.


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## mhjett (Oct 16, 2000)

TWs/VW said:


> Also, did you have to replace the crush washer on the drain plug, or was it the non-replaceable type plug.
> 
> TW


It uses the same drain plug as lots of other VWs and Audis, the one with an integrated washer -- so you replace the plug/washer combo. N-908-132-02. I paid $2.40.


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## TWs/VW (Jan 9, 2019)

mhjett said:


> It uses the same drain plug as lots of other VWs and Audis, the one with an integrated washer -- so you replace the plug/washer combo. N-908-132-02. I paid $2.40.


Thank you for that...was that the dealership price for the plug?

Any thoughts on replacing the plug with one of the Fumoto Drain Valves (link below) - which one?. It seems like it would make the task allot easer, especially so if the drain valve or hose could be remotely located to eliminate the plastic shield R&R with each change. On the other hand, the change interval is really long if changing the oil once-a-year.

http://www.fumotousa.com/results.ph...511&makeid=VOLKSWAGEN&modelid=Touareg+3.6L+V6

TW


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## mhjett (Oct 16, 2000)

TWs/VW said:


> Thank you for that...was that the dealership price for the plug?
> 
> Any thoughts on replacing the plug with one of the Fumoto Drain Valves (link below) - which one?. It seems like it would make the task allot easer, especially so if the drain valve or hose could be remotely located to eliminate the plastic shield R&R with each change. On the other hand, the change interval is really long if changing the oil once-a-year.
> 
> ...


I bought the drain plug and filter from Paul at https://www.shopdap.com/

Personally I really didn't think R&R-ing the belly pan was a big enough deal to justify figuring out a work-around.


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## mhjett (Oct 16, 2000)

Hfqkhal said:


> I believe he is talking about the same one I saw


Despite the "ASE" patch on that guy's shirt, a couple things on the video -- 

1) Don't do what he did and just pull the filter cap off and let oil drip out all over your hand and everywhere. Do it right -- Remove the drain bolt on the bottom of the cap first (it's a 6mm hex) and let any oil in the filter housing drain. Then put the drain bolt back on and remove the cap. No drips. I'm borrowing a photo from a few pages back--










2) I have no idea why that Atlas wasn't full with 5.8 quarts, but he must have over-filled. Put in 5.8, check, run the engine, and triple check before you put any more in. Read the dipstick properly (as someone else said and despite him pulling out the manual, he may have mis-read the dipstick, which is beyond a rookie mistake). Overfill and you risk damage, including possibly destroying your catalytic converters.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Amsoil patch says it all 

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## EPilot (Jul 27, 1999)

mhjett said:


> Despite the "ASE" patch on that guy's shirt, a couple things on the video --
> 
> 1) Don't do what he did and just pull the filter cap off and let oil drip out all over your hand and everywhere. Do it right -- Remove the drain bolt on the bottom of the cap first (it's a 6mm hex) and let any oil in the filter housing drain. Then put the drain bolt back on and remove the cap. No drips. I'm borrowing a photo from a few pages back--


This exactly. Oil changes to VR6's should be done this way. It takes seconds to remove the plug and drain and causes a lot less mess.

Don't be like some shop guys that I've seen using huge channel locks. 
Use the right size socket to remove the filter housing change the o-ring and don't cross thread it and it will last forever. 
I only once replaced the o-ring on the filter housing drain plug and that was at around the 200,000 mile mark.


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## mhjett (Oct 16, 2000)

Here's the analysis of the factory fill oil in my Atlas at 6,531 miles -- given the averages and the other results in this thread, looks good. Happy to see only trace fuel present, and they're right that I sampled cold. Blackstone called the factory fill a 5w30 ... odd, as all indications are that VW fills with 0w30. I'll probably do a few more samples to see how things settle.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

^^^cool! Always good to see real data that supports that just running these things from new to the first oil change.


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## TWs/VW (Jan 9, 2019)

*Which Oil Meets/Exceeds the Highest Standard (A or B)*

I'm a new Atlas owner and I want to drive this amazing car as far and as long as did my previous [new] cars, 12-15 years/250-300k miles. I've read allot here about oils and there are allot of smart people out there - I do not count myself among them when it comes to oil. If you had to make a choice from the two performance claim examples below (A or B), which of these two oils would you use in your brand new 3.6L VR6 engine if you lived year-round in Florida, didn't trust the factory fill and [most importantly] wanted to extend the life of your engine. You may be able to guess which oils these are and I know there are allot of other oils out there with various performance claims, but just based on these two examples, which would you say is the higher performing oil?

OIL A - ACEA A3/B4; API SN/CF; BMW Longlife-01; MB 229.3; Porsche A40; VW 502 00/505 00

OIL B - ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4; API SL/CF; BMW Longlife-01; MB 229.3/229.5; VW 502 00/505 00

TW


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Why in the world wouldn't you trust the factory fill?

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## Hfqkhal (Oct 14, 2018)

KarstGeo said:


> Why in the world wouldn't you trust the factory fill?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


I think the poster is one that would like to do his own oil changes and wants to know what best to choose. Also there are some dealers that give you a choice of oil to use (for extra). Many dealers buy in bulk and the source could say meets the requirements but such oil could be the lowest level of approval and one has to put a full trust in the dealer. I for one never did and that is why I used to do my own oil changes. But with a long warrantee on the Atlas and keeping the records, if anything goes wrong and they blame the oil, well the deal will have to held responsible as they did all the services. Just like when I had my Nissan Murano, I requested that they use synthetic and I was charged for synthetic and they got caught were when I asked the mechanic what brand did they use and his response was the standard oil they have and asked if it was synthetic and he said no. Oh well the dealer ended up do it over and the next 3 oil changes was on them.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

He says he doesn't trust the oil that came from the factory in his Atlas.

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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

TWs/VW said:


> I'm a new Atlas owner and I want to drive this amazing car as far and as long as did my previous [new] cars, 12-15 years/250-300k miles. I've read allot here about oils and there are allot of smart people out there - I do not count myself among them when it comes to oil. If you had to make a choice from the two performance claim examples below (A or B), which of these two oils would you use in your brand new 3.6L VR6 engine if you lived year-round in Florida, didn't trust the factory fill and [most importantly] wanted to extend the life of your engine. You may be able to guess which oils these are and I know there are allot of other oils out there with various performance claims, but just based on these two examples, which would you say is the higher performing oil?
> 
> OIL A - ACEA A3/B4; API SN/CF; BMW Longlife-01; MB 229.3; Porsche A40; VW 502 00/505 00
> 
> ...


Have you surfed around on bobistheoilguy.com? If you want to nerd out on the minutia of oil, that's the best place...you will get the info you seek!


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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

TWs/VW said:


> I'm a new Atlas owner and I want to drive this amazing car as far and as long as did my previous [new] cars, 12-15 years/250-300k miles. I've read allot here about oils and there are allot of smart people out there - I do not count myself among them when it comes to oil. If you had to make a choice from the two performance claim examples below (A or B), which of these two oils would you use in your brand new 3.6L VR6 engine if you lived year-round in Florida, didn't trust the factory fill and [most importantly] wanted to extend the life of your engine. You may be able to guess which oils these are and I know there are allot of other oils out there with various performance claims, but just based on these two examples, which would you say is the higher performing oil?
> 
> OIL A - ACEA A3/B4; API SN/CF; BMW Longlife-01; MB 229.3; Porsche A40; VW 502 00/505 00
> 
> ...


I feel your confusion and share your concerns.

Try looking at the below link and coming up to your conclusion.

What I am still struggling with is why for my 2019 VR6, the engine bay label says 504 and the manual says 502. According to the link below 504 is superior, but people on this forum say use 502.


https://online.lubrizol.com/relperftool/pc.html



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## TWs/VW (Jan 9, 2019)

Andre VW said:


> I feel your confusion and share your concerns.
> 
> Try looking at the below link and coming up to your conclusion.
> 
> ...


I've read that we should go with the specification sticker placed by the factory, not necessarily what's printed in the manual. Someone may know for sure, but I've heard that the difference between 502 and 504 is the serviceable life of the oil; 502 being about 10k miles and 504 about 30k miles (required in Europe where the gasoline is cleaner). My concern with just leaving the factory fill in the engine (assuming it's 0W-30W) during break-in and replacing with the same, may not be the best oil for long engine life. I'm starting to think that the 0W-30W specification listed in the manual is not really the best way to go, at least not in my region. I spoke with the Service Manager at my local dealership yesterday and he said they are installing 5W-40W - of course this is Florida. I think the 0W-30W in the manual may have been a requirement imposed on VWUS by the EPA without regard for what's really best in the long-run. That being said, I'm still interested in which set of performance claims (A or B) the smart people would choose if you wanted a superior oil...

TW


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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

I would likely pick Oil B due to MB229.5 being the more stringent cert when you composite up all the specs. 

I am also Florida. South Florida Treasure Coast to be exact. Our engines will tend to see higher temps here and will be running AC most the year. My oil temps hover around 212F. Will see what happens during summer. 

But I am not confident to make the call myself to go to a thicker oil like 5w-40. Thicker oil does not always mean more protection or longer engine life. In fact, one can argue that thicker oil, depending on engine and tolerances may prevent proper lubrication getting to some areas (i.e BMW M3 rod bearing wear). I plan to stick to the 0w30 recommended oil once I figure out the proper spec (502 or 504?).

I am still debating if the car should use 502 or 504. Curious to see what my dealer will use when I do my first oil change at 5k.

My car came with a dealer 172k/16yr warranty on the powertrain (engine/transmission) so I do not plan to deviate much from manufacturer specs but still need to know what the manufacturer really wants....Follow engine label or manual?




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## TWs/VW (Jan 9, 2019)

*Says VW 504 00 under the hood...*



Andre VW said:


> I would likely pick Oil B due to MB229.5 being the more stringent cert when you composite up all the specs.
> 
> I am also Florida. South Florida Treasure Coast to be exact. Our engines will tend to see higher temps here and will be running AC most the year. My oil temps hover around 212F. Will see what happens during summer.
> 
> ...


I just had a look under the hood of my band new 2019 Atlas (built last month) and the label says VW 504 00...now I'm really confused??

TW


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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

TWs/VW said:


> I just had a look under the hood of my band new 2019 Atlas (built last month) and the label says VW 504 00...now I'm really confused??
> 
> TW


Yup. Exactly my point earlier. The 2019 VR6 have conflicting info on the spec. Engine bay label says 504. Manual says 502.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Just call VW and ask. Can also call a few dealers and see what they say vs. speculating here where nobody really has the answer. I'll just keep using 5w40 502 every 7.5k and I'm quite sure my Atlas's engine will run longer than I'll keep it or the rest of it falls apart.

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## mhjett (Oct 16, 2000)

From a purely warranty perspective, if your 2019 says 502 in the manual and 504 on the engine bay label, I think you'd be fine using either. 

Per this link, it appears 504 is a more stringent spec ("better" oil) than 502 -- and it looks like as the numbers go up, so do the standards (although 505.00 is sort of an outlier): 

https://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/vw_motor_oil_specifications_explained.php


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

mhjett said:


> From a purely warranty perspective, if your 2019 says 502 in the manual and 504 on the engine bay label, I think you'd be fine using either.
> 
> Per this link, it appears 504 is a more stringent spec ("better" oil) than 502 -- and it looks like as the numbers go up, so do the standards (although 505.00 is sort of an outlier):
> 
> https://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/vw_motor_oil_specifications_explained.php


So all 504s are 5W-30, I would be curious as to teh oil consumption over a 10K mile OCI with a 504 vs. 502.


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## steveg241 (Oct 9, 2018)

The oil consumption should be negligible as the oils aren't that different. I've been using 504/507 oil for years in diesels, as they seem to be a joint spec as I've not seen a 507 oil that doesn't also meet 504. The main difference is low ash content which is required for DFPs on modern diesels. Generally the 504 oils are nearly 40 weight oils. Here are two popular ones, Mobil 1 ESP (504) 5w30 and Mobil 1 FS 0w40 (502)

Mobil 1 ESP

[email protected]: 11.8
[email protected]: 62.6
Sulphated Ash: 0.8%
TBN: 5.1

Mobil 1 FS

[email protected]: 12.9
[email protected]: 70.8
Sulphated Ash: 1.34%
TBN: 12.6

So as you can see the sulphated ash content is lower for the 504 oil and it is made of a Group IV PAO base versus the Group III GTL base of the FS 0w-40. So essentially for 504 oils you need less TBN because in Europe they have had a lower sulphur content for fuel since 2009 due to Euro V emissions rules. That is how they get much longer OCIs. 

The problem with using a 504 in the US is that the sulfur content of gasoline is not as strict. In 2017 the average sulfur PPM is 10ppm. The catch is that is an average with a maximum of 80ppm from the refinery gate and 95ppm downstream. So in the US you have no idea what your actual sulfur content will be for any given batch of fuel. If you happen to get a lot of 95ppm gasoline, it will deplete that 5.1 TBN very quickly. 

The best thing to do if you want to use a 504 oil is to run it to 5k and then pull a sample to see where you are at for TBN. Then you'll know if you can make it or not to 10k. Not until all gasoline is limited to 10ppm sulfur can we run a 504 oil without worrying about what we put into the tank in the US. However with out testing either the fuel from the pump or the oil there is no way for consumers to really know what they are getting. 

You can also ask the dealer to just use the oil they use for TDI's as they require 507 which is also a 504 oil. However, this may be why VW put out the 508/509 oil spec to take advantage of the low sulfur content and now they are comfortable recommending 504 due to the lower average sulfur.

***Edited as I flipped the TBNs


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## mhjett (Oct 16, 2000)

^ @steveg241, thanks for all the good info.


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## steveg241 (Oct 9, 2018)

mhjett said:


> ^ @steveg241, thanks for all the good info.


No problem. I'm even curious about the sulfur content of US fuel in my area and I have a ton of oil for my diesels that I could use next time I change the Golf so I may give it a try and sample after 5k. 

Also, for those curious here is the EPA link and Mobil Oil links for the two oils reference above. The TBN for the Mobil 1 ESP was gather from UOA's as the site doesn't specify it. 

EPA Gasoline Standards: https://www.epa.gov/gasoline-standards/gasoline-sulfur
Mobil 1 ESP: https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-esp#5W-30
Mobil 1 FS European Car Formula: https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-fs#0W-40


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## TWs/VW (Jan 9, 2019)

*VW 502.00 or 504 00*

Thanks to all who are contributing.

I think I've narrowed it down to a couple of oil choices for best wear protection, there are probably other oils out there as well, but these two seem to fit the bill. Keeping in mind that I live in Florida and don't need a cold climate oil, so these oils wouldn't be appropriate for all.


FIRST...here's what the vehicle's manual says...

"Your engine was factory-filled with an all-season engine oil that meets strict Volkswagen oil quality standards and has a viscosity grade of SAE 0W-30. You can use this oil for normal driving in all temperatures."

"If VW 502 00 is not available, you may also use an engine oil that meets the specification VW 504 00."

"If engine oil that meets the applicable Volkswagen oil quality standard with viscosity grade SAE 0W-30 is not available in your area, be sure to use a viscosity grade suitable for the climate, season, and operating conditions that exist where the vehicle is used. Make sure the oil meets the quality standard listed in table on page 316 [Approved engine oil - Gasoline engines VW 502 00]. If none is available that meets this engine oil specification, see the information in [NOTE]."

"NOTE ...if there is no oil available that has a viscosity grade of SAE 0W-30, you may add a total of no more than 1/2 quart (0.5 liter) of an engine oil that meets the oil quality standard VW 502 00 or VW 504 00 and has a viscosity grade of SAE 5W-40 or SAE 5W-30."

"•Using oil with a viscosity grade other than SAE 0W-30 may cause vehicle emissions and fuel consumption to increase slightly."


NOW...here's what the Technicians say at the factory that built the vehicle just last month...the sticker is located under the hood right in front of the Engine...

"Engine Oil - Use only oil that expressly complies with SAE 0W-30 & VW 504 00" [701 010 043K]


SO...since oils that meet the VW 504 00 standard are superior (see link below) to those which only comply with the VW 502 00 specification; and since I live in a worm, sometimes very worm climate, I think I can go with one of the following extended performance oils for better wear protection. Note, oils that meet the VW 504 00 specification are only available as 5W-30 at this time...would I be wrong or would it be in anyway harmful to do so? At the risk of causing "vehicle emissions and fuel consumption to increase slightly", could these oils be a better choice for long term engine protection. Oh, I am still planning to change the oil annually (<15k miles).

In any case, it's all very confusing...

TW 


Lubrizol Relative Performance Comparison Tool - Passenger Car Specifications:

https://online.lubrizol.com/relperftool/pc.html


Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30:

Builder Approvals - MB 229.31/229.51/229.52, VW 504 00/507 00, GM dexos2, Porsche C30, PSA B712290

https://www.mobil.com/English-US/Passenger-Vehicle-Lube/pds/GLXXMobil-1-ESP-5W30


Castrol EDGE 5W-30 LL:

Builder Approvals - MB 229.31/229.51, VW 504 00/507 00, Porsche C30

https://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/41773B3538D9B4818025833D006DC418/$File/BPXE-B6CBL5.pdf


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## steveg241 (Oct 9, 2018)

Mobil 1 did come out with a 0w-30 VW 504/507 oil:

Mobil 1 ESP X1 0w-30: https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-esp

If they are calling for a 0w-30 you can definitely use that and it has similar viscosities to Mobil 1 ESP. In fact it's @100C its basically the same at 12 and higher @40C with a cSt of 65 vs 60 for the 5w-30. The PDS isn't loading so I don't know the pour point, but it seems like a good oil. ECS has the 5w-30 for $8/qt and Amazon has the 0w-30 for $7.70/qt in a 6 pack. Not too bad.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

I think your'e screwed b/c you can't meet the requirements of sticker with a 0W30 AND 504...just don't change it...hahahahaha(joking of course)...just lots of contradictions in all of this info so curious what you go with. I'd call VW! Good luck!


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## TWs/VW (Jan 9, 2019)

*Mobil 1 ESP X1 0W-30 (VW 504 00/MB 229 51)*



steveg241 said:


> Mobil 1 did come out with a 0w-30 VW 504/507 oil:
> 
> Mobil 1 ESP X1 0w-30: https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-esp
> 
> If they are calling for a 0w-30 you can definitely use that and it has similar viscosities to Mobil 1 ESP. In fact it's @100C its basically the same at 12 and higher @40C with a cSt of 65 vs 60 for the 5w-30. The PDS isn't loading so I don't know the pour point, but it seems like a good oil. ECS has the 5w-30 for $8/qt and Amazon has the 0w-30 for $7.70/qt in a 6 pack. Not too bad.


Thank you for that...

Mobil 1 ESP X1 0W-30 has the following builder approvals:

•MB-Approval 229.31
•MB-Approval 229.51
•MB-Approval 229.52 
•VW 504 00
•VW 507 00

TW


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## TWs/VW (Jan 9, 2019)

TWs/VW said:


> Thank you for that...
> 
> Mobil 1 ESP X1 0W-30 has the following builder approvals:
> 
> ...


I hope this is really true, but I wonder if the Mobil 1 ESP X1 0W-30 is actually still labeled as an approved VW's 504 00 oil (the 0W-40 is not). Until now, I hadn't found any oil other than 5W-30 that is approved - maybe the reason the PDF isn't loading? I'll have to do a little more research and see if it is still approved by VW as meeting specs.

TW


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## steveg241 (Oct 9, 2018)

You may just want to email Mobil. Their website just had a bunch of issues recently where things weren't loading and oils disappeared. It really freaked out some folks on Bob Is the Oil Guy because the Mobil 1 FS 0w-40 disappeared. 

Now most stuff seems to be working, but they will email you pretty quickly. They responded quite quickly when I emailed to see if you could get Mobil 1 ESP X2 0w-20 in the US as it doesn't show on the site but it is VW 508 approved and a friend wanted it for their Mk2 Tiguan. They emailed back the part number and said even though it didn't show on the site yet you could order it with the part number. I've had good experiences with their customer service.


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## TWs/VW (Jan 9, 2019)

TWs/VW said:


> I hope this is really true, but I wonder if the Mobil 1 ESP X1 0W-30 is actually still labeled as an approved VW's 504 00 oil (the 0W-40 is not). Until now, I hadn't found any oil other than 5W-30 that is approved - maybe the reason the PDF isn't loading? I'll have to do a little more research and see if it is still approved by VW as meeting specs.
> 
> TW


Missing the VW approval...


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## TWs/VW (Jan 9, 2019)

TWs/VW said:


> Missing the VW approval...


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4951702/vw-atlas-v6-oil#Post4951702

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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

Reposting a link i posted a many pages ago.

There are a handful of 504 0w-30 oils available. Shell, Motul, Pennzoil, Castrol.

https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11038&d=1473711760

Also if anybody has Erwin VW access. There is a bulletin title that talks of the new model year Atlas oil viscosity and spec change. So I think the engine manual is indeed wrong and the engine label is correct on the 2019s. Wish somebody can pull that bulletin up and see what it exactly says.


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## idrw (Nov 22, 2018)

*2.0T oil capacity*

For people changing the oil on the 2.0T, do not follow the manual and under fill. It needs almost the same amount as the VR6. The manual states it needs just under 5 quarts or 4.7 liters. I had to fill nearly 5.6 liters of Liqui moly to get it to be right in the middle of the textured part of the dipstick.


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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

For the oil obsessive compulsive people like me, Below is a link to the holy grail of all oil specifications all in one document in tabulated format. Nice to compare 502 and 504 and even all the coveted mb229 specs right next to each other. 

There doesnt seem to be much difference in 504 vs 502 other than the 504 having: 
-less NOACK (11 vs 13)
-an added fuel efficiency test 
-Added 650hr endurance wear test 
-no minimum TBN for 504

Although what the VW spec lacks, the mb229.51 spec covers with a better lower NOACK, best highest TBN and much more extensive around wear testing.

So the answer for those looking for best protection in long term wear is to get an oil with any VW 502/504 spec along with the mb229.51 spec. That should cover all bases.

Thats my answer and Im sticking to it.


https://www.aftonchemical.com/Afton/media/PdfFiles/Specification_Handbook.pdf


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## steveg241 (Oct 9, 2018)

This is a great post and I really appreciate it to see everything side by side. One thing I noticed is how sparse BMW is with their specs, so it makes me wonder how (not so) bad it is that Mobil 1 FS 0w-40 doesn't have that spec. There's no way to know what that brings to table. Much appreciated!

It also makes me wonder why lots of people knock the Castrol Edge 5w-40 Professional OE that most dealers use. From what I can gather at a quick glance, the only spec it doesn't meet for MB229.5 is that the NOACK is 11% and MB229.5 requires a 10% or lower NOACK. Of course it could fail any of the wear tests so we don't really know why, but it makes one wonder how much worse it really could be.


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## Hfqkhal (Oct 14, 2018)

TWs/VW said:


> TWs/VW said:
> 
> 
> > Missing the VW approval...
> ...


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

8:45 for info on 502 vs. 504 here in the U.S.

https://youtu.be/Yx__NpU6glI

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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

KarstGeo said:


> 8:45 for info on 502 vs. 504 here in the U.S.
> 
> https://youtu.be/Yx__NpU6glI
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Nice. Good to see in laymans terms what the difference is. Wish he continued his explanation one step further and said what would happen if 504 is used in the states (i.e Safe for 10k miles in US vs 30k miles in europe)


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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

steveg241 said:


> This is a great post and I really appreciate it to see everything side by side. One thing I noticed is how sparse BMW is with their specs, so it makes me wonder how (not so) bad it is that Mobil 1 FS 0w-40 doesn't have that spec. There's no way to know what that brings to table. Much appreciated!
> 
> It also makes me wonder why lots of people knock the Castrol Edge 5w-40 Professional OE that most dealers use. From what I can gather at a quick glance, the only spec it doesn't meet for MB229.5 is that the NOACK is 11% and MB229.5 requires a 10% or lower NOACK. Of course it could fail any of the wear tests so we don't really know why, but it makes one wonder how much worse it really could be.


I agree on the BMW spec. As a BMW owner myself, when I saw that BMW spec table and how it really is just the ACEA spec with some minor additions, I felt it seems overrated and do not regard it so highly as a need to have approval on an oil I would buy. 


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## TWs/VW (Jan 9, 2019)

Technical Tip

Topic 17-18-02TT - Engine Oil Type and Viscosity Change for New Model Year
Market	United States 444 Volkswagen of America, Inc. (6444)
Brand	Volkswagen
Date November 16, 2018

Technical Background

Applicable engine oil type has changed from the previous model year.

Service

"For the 2019 Atlas equipped with either the 2.0L (DCGA) or 3.6L (CDVC), the applicable oil type and viscosity has changed since the previous model year. To prevent any confusion or incorrect usage during an oil change or topping off the crankcase oil, refer to the under hood sticker (shown below) for type and viscosity. Additional applicable oils of this type and viscosity can also be found in Technical Bulletin 2012855 (V171805)."

Under Hood Sticker: "Engine Oil - Use only oil that expressly complies with SAE 0W-30 & VW 504 00" [701 010 043K]


Technical Bulletin 2012855 (V171805)

"Engine Oils Which Meet Volkswagen Oil Quality Standards (U.S. Only) VW 504 00/VW 507 00":

AVERNO LL Professional SAE 0W-30
Castrol Edge Professional Longlife III SAE 0W-30
DAB Super-Universal Longlife III SAE 0W-30
De Oliebron Tor Extendo SAE 0W-30
Elf Evolution Full-Tech LLX SAE 0W-30
Eni i-Sint Tech VK SAE 0W-30
Eurol Syntence FS SAE 0W-30
Lukoil Genesis Special VN SAE 0W-30
MAN Genuine Oil Vivax 504.00/507.00 SAE 0W-30
Masteroil C-Tec Power Special Longlife III SAE 0W-30
Mobil 1 ESP SAE 0W-30
Mobil 1 ESP X1 SAE 0W-30
MOL Dynamic Gold Longlife SAE 0W-30
Motorex Profile V-XL SAE 0W-30
Motul Expert V SAE 0W-30
Motul Specific 504 00 507 00 SAE 0W-30
Muxx X600 LL III SAE 0W-30
Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX SAE 0W-30
Raloy Syn-Tec Platinum SAE 0W-30
Repsol Elite Long Life SAE 0W-30
Rowe Hightec Multi Synt DPF SAE 0W-30Shell Helix HX8 ECT SAE 0W-30
Shell Helix Ultra ECT C2 C3 SAE 0W-30
Shell Helix Ultra Professional AV-L SAE 0W-30
Sinopec Justar J700F Super SAE 0W-30
SK Lubricants ZIC TOP SAE 0W-30
Total Quartz INEO Longlife SAE 0W-30
Transmational Blenders Motor Oil Longlife-III Synthetic SAE 0W-30
Valvoline SynPower XL-III C3 SAE 0W-30
Vapsoil 507 00 SAE 0W-30
Volkswagen Original Teile Longlife III FE SAE 0W-30


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Woah...

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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

Nice!! Thank you for posting that. Wish we knew why the difference on 2019+.

Ok so its official on 2019s, the sticker is correct and the manual is wrong. And means going to be interesting trying to find oils from that shorter list.



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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Mobil and Castrol should be v. easy to find/order.


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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

KarstGeo said:


> Mobil and Castrol should be v. easy to find/order.


Not at all. The Penn Platinum Euro LX is the easiest and even has the coveted mb229.x specs. Cannot find the specific Mobil or Castrol versions in stores online for purchase. Only found the Mobil ESP version but the bottle label is missing VW504 spec. Maybe out dated bottle label.


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## STI-GR-Wagon-Dad (Jul 20, 2017)

......


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## steveg241 (Oct 9, 2018)

Andre VW said:


> Not at all. The Penn Platinum Euro LX is the easiest and even has the coveted mb229.x specs. Cannot find the specific Mobil or Castrol versions in stores online for purchase. Only found the Mobil ESP version but the bottle label is missing VW504 spec. Maybe out dated bottle label.


Could be it is an outdated bottle. The same thing happened with Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30 and the Dexos2 certification. It took a while to stop getting oil without the Dexos2 license printed on the label and nothing changed on the formulation.


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## Hedgehodge (Nov 7, 2008)

Where is liqui molly oh nooo. Never done Rowe but heard lots of good about them


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## Hedgehodge (Nov 7, 2008)

Dang 

https://products.liqui-moly.us/oils.html?___from_store=limo_b2b_us_us&___store=limo_b2b_us_us&all_approvals_recoms=1608

I can't find anything that is 504 approved that's 0w 30 or mb299 that's 504 approved (only special tech 0w30 for Volvo)

New brand time  I moved away from Mobil 1 because I heard they lowered some standard or levels to be able to sell 5l in Walmart for 30


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## Eye Candy White (Nov 9, 2006)

Darn; I had just purchased an oil change kit from ECS last month for our Atlas, and it's Motul 5W40. I'm likely going to just go ahead and use it. It's good oil, and we're coming up on warmer temps in Ohio, so the weight should be fine, I'd guess.

Related; what is the socket size on the oil filter housing for the Atlas? Guessing it's something I don't have and will have to go buy.

Thanks!


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## Chris4789 (Nov 29, 2017)

*Oil Canister Socket*

-To Remove/Replace Canister: 36mm Canister Socket*& 6” extension. Note the placement of the “O” ring so you know where it goes.
-6mm Allen Hex bit to remove drain plug in the bottom of canister

-Torque 25 Nm on filter housing
-Torque 10 Nm on Canister Plug


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## Eye Candy White (Nov 9, 2006)

Chris4789 said:


> -To Remove/Replace Canister: 36mm Canister Socket*& 6” extension. Note the placement of the “O” ring so you know where it goes.
> -6mm Allen Hex bit to remove drain plug in the bottom of canister
> 
> -Torque 25 Nm on filter housing
> -Torque 10 Nm on Canister Plug


Thanks!


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Eye Candy White said:


> Darn; I had just purchased an oil change kit from ECS last month for our Atlas, and it's Motul 5W40. I'm likely going to just go ahead and use it. It's good oil, and we're coming up on warmer temps in Ohio, so the weight should be fine, I'd guess.
> 
> Related; what is the socket size on the oil filter housing for the Atlas? Guessing it's something I don't have and will have to go buy.
> 
> Thanks!


What's wrong with the Motul 5W40? Yours is a 2018 and 502 5W40 is just fine!


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## Eye Candy White (Nov 9, 2006)

Wouldn't any changes to recommended oil for the 2019's also backdate to the 2018 models? They're the same engines, so I'd assume we'd also want to run the 0W30 on the 2018 cars as well.

Confirm/deny?


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Not how that works. By the same logic then the 2019s are fine on regular ol' 502 5W40 because the 2018s are. Mine says 502 or 504 with a viscosity appropriate for your climate. #5W404lyfe

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## Hedgehodge (Nov 7, 2008)

I thought the reason they put this info out was because the 2018 info was wrong, so that makes no sense. I'd assume my 2018 would want to use this 0w-30 list, along with the 2019s. Vr6 and 2.0t


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## Eye Candy White (Nov 9, 2006)

Yes, that's the reason I asked; that would make sense to me.

I'm assuming they've updated the oil specs required for this first generation of Atlas, regardless of whether it's a 2018 or 2019 MY.

I'm likely going to use the 502 spec 5W40 I have in the garage, but going forward likely will purchase the 0W30 in newer spec regardless of the season.


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## Hedgehodge (Nov 7, 2008)

Easiest one I can find is 

Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX 0W-30 Fully Synthetic

Never used penn, I'm assuming this will help with our low rpm auto tranny and carbon buildup as best as it can? I know my 2011 had issues with that and used 0-40 or 5-30iirc. 

Mobil 1 took forever to bring out the 5l 0w40, I'm guessing the same for all these new oils.


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## Hedgehodge (Nov 7, 2008)

Holy hell, what a crapshow it is to get the required oil for 2018 Atlas 3.6L 4motion


I asked online VW Care and they said 0w-30 502 00 
I asked MY dealer i bought it from they said 5w-30 and had no idea on if its 502 or 504
I asked another dealer and they said it was 5w-40 and it was 502.

"All of the 504/507 oils seem to be 30 weights as opposed to mostly 40 weights in the 502/505 category" -https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4017445/VW_502/505_vs._504/507 

_I'm about to go with 0w-40 for it and toss in 5.8 quarts of_ https://www.fcpeuro.com/products?utf8=✓&keywords=Liqui+Moly+Synthoil+Energy+0W40 

The stealership wanted 106 for an oil change for it. Ill pay 60 for oil and buy a nice OEM filter and have an oil type I KNOW is IN IT.


*Cool video of a guy that test oil wear on his own and post results to excel (check out the excel docs mainly) just more reason im leaning towards more liqui. The top says without oil rating is ,41
*
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XEXyROAbLl4

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1H5RJ5YnLaXgGi8Cd1I7n4RRf91O9jkXpXf7knM0q-bg/edit#gid=0

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1fbb9qtL-yWlzDPLzvxzpF01gRRtH8fKxeVtXt6HPpgg/edit#gid=0


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## mhjett (Oct 16, 2000)

Hedgehodge said:


> The stealership wanted 106 for an oil change for it. Ill pay 60 for oil and buy a nice OEM filter and have an oil type I KNOW is IN IT.


I just added up the cost of my first oil change -- OEM filter, Castrol Edge 0w40, new drain bolt, and new filter drain bolt o-ring -- and it was $50. Add in the Blackstone analysis and I'm still at only $78. :beer:


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

The bottom line is you have choices....

502 or 504

For 502, you can go 0W30 if you can find it, or the more common 5W40 or 0W40

For 504, you are more limited in your choices to meet 0W30 AND 504 as the newer stickers unhood say.

All of these will work.

All of these will allow you to drive your vehicle for many years trouble free.

All of these will allow you to keep your warranty in tact in the unbelievably rare instance of a lubrication-related issue AND a dealer/VW that asks for receipts etc. if you DIY.

This is not worth stressing about. Pick one and go with it. Your dealer isn't going to use an oil that is going to harm your motor or make it grenade in 20K miles and remember, if they are doing the oil changes, you are covered regardless.

These changes are based on minutia of mpgs and emissions...nothing else. VW didn't all of a sudden say "OH MY GOD THE 2018 USING 502 WILL FALL APART UNLESS THEY USE 504 XYZ".

I will continue to use the tried and true VW502.00 5W40 in both of my 2018 VWs.

The end.


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## *DesertFox* (Sep 26, 2017)

This oil should cover all VW's. 

https://ibb.co/0KRV279


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## Eye Candy White (Nov 9, 2006)

Is the consensus that Liqui-Moly is a better oil than anything from Motul?

I've been using Motul for some time with great success in my MKV GTI which is known to be hard on oil, and it's done great. If Liqui-Moly is for sure better, then I'll begin the process or changing over for both my GTI and the wife's Atlas.


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## *DesertFox* (Sep 26, 2017)

Eye Candy White said:


> Is the consensus that Liqui-Moly is a better oil than anything from Motul?
> 
> I've been using Motul for some time with great success in my MKV GTI which is known to be hard on oil, and it's done great. If Liqui-Moly is for sure better, then I'll begin the process or changing over for both my GTI and the wife's Atlas.



Motul is a very good oil, I'm not saying Liqui-Moly is better. I was just saying it's VW 500.00/501.01/502.00/504.00/505.01/505.01/503.00/503.01/506.00/506.01/507.00 and it's 5w30. 

If you are having great success with Motul I would keep using it.


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## Hedgehodge (Nov 7, 2008)

*DesertFox* said:


> Motul is a very good oil, I'm not saying Liqui-Moly is better. I was just saying it's VW 500.00/501.01/502.00/504.00/505.01/505.01/503.00/503.01/506.00/506.01/507.00 and it's 5w30.
> 
> If you are having great success with Motul I would keep using it.


I just buy oil i can get from FCPEuro now because they have lifetime warranty on their stuff....even OIL, Odd i know. You buy one and keep the old oil and put back in the container and then when its time to change it you warranty out the oil kit and its free minus if you pay for shipping id assume, i live near them. They state its meant to be used that way too. 

https://www.facebook.com/fcpeuro/po...antee-includes-oil-thats-ri/1367237419991658/


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

The consensus on Bob is the oil guy is that Liquimoly is ok, but that the cheaper Castrol 0W40 from Wallyworld is actually a higher-quality oil.


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## Hedgehodge (Nov 7, 2008)

KarstGeo said:


> The consensus on Bob is the oil guy is that Liquimoly is ok, but that the cheaper Castrol 0W40 from Wallyworld is actually a higher-quality oil.


meh, ill just go off that excel sheet on that guy that did testing, word of mouth and switched from mobil 1 to liqui a while ago *knock on wood*. 

Also for those looking for those rivets for underbelly, i plan on ordering 10 to keep around for oil changes, watched a video and it seems 1 is a pain to get back once popped out.

N0385494 (hope its the right part #) 

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/plastic-rivet-priced-each/n0385494/

ill prob just end up screwing a tiny screw into them and pulling them out lol


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## mhjett (Oct 16, 2000)

Hedgehodge said:


> Also for those looking for those rivets for underbelly, i plan on ordering 10 to keep around for oil changes, watched a video and it seems 1 is a pain to get back once popped out.
> 
> N0385494 (hope its the right part #)
> 
> ...


When I did my oil change, the rivet pin shot into the subframe and was instantly and forever lost. I put the belly pan back on without it and I think it's fine. I agree with the poster many pages back who guessed that this rivet is there simply to make it easier to install the belly pan at the factory. In theory, one person could clip the front in, lift the back, pop in the rivet to hold the pan, then screw in all the hex bolts. If you bolt up the pan without the rivet, you'll see it's pretty secure. But the rivets are cheap enough that you could just order a handful and replace it if you want, for peace of mind (and/or to assuage your OCD). :thumbup:


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## knedrgr (Jun 6, 2011)

mhjett said:


> When I did my oil change, the rivet pin shot into the subframe and was instantly and forever lost. I put the belly pan back on without it and I think it's fine. I agree with the poster many pages back who guessed that this rivet is there simply to make it easier to install the belly pan at the factory. In theory, one person could clip the front in, lift the back, pop in the rivet to hold the pan, then screw in all the hex bolts. If you bolt up the pan without the rivet, you'll see it's pretty secure. But the rivets are cheap enough that you could just order a handful and replace it if you want, for peace of mind (and/or to assuage your OCD). :thumbup:


Funny thing is, did my first oil change (not my first time at the rodeo) on the car, over the weekend. The first two oil changes were done by the dealer, free of charge. I'd found the rivet inside the belly pan. Assuming the last tech had left the rivet there, but had forgotten to put it back on the car. LOL. 

That rivet is now sitting on my work bench. I mean, 11 small screws and 3 large bolts, I don't think the belly pan is going anywhere without having that rivet in place.


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## mhjett (Oct 16, 2000)

knedrgr said:


> That rivet is now sitting on my work bench. I mean, 11 small screws and 3 large bolts, I don't think the belly pan is going anywhere without having that rivet in place.



I don't either -- VW wouldn't incur the cost of putting it there if there wasn't a reason, and the only reason I can think of is ease of assembly.


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## Hedgehodge (Nov 7, 2008)

mhjett said:


> knedrgr said:
> 
> 
> > That rivet is now sitting on my work bench. I mean, 11 small screws and 3 large bolts, I don't think the belly pan is going anywhere without having that rivet in place.
> ...


F it then, I thought there was more than one lol.

Your username is my initials and kid's name lol, odd. Jett 😛 cheers. Doing this withing the week, thanks all


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## knedrgr (Jun 6, 2011)

Hedgehodge said:


> F it then, I thought there was more than one lol.


I'm sure you can get the pin out by blowing some compressed air inside the sub-frame.


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## Eye Candy White (Nov 9, 2006)

Changed the oil in my wife's Atlas on Sunday. Interesting tidbit; bought the oil service kit from ECS, and the drain plug bolt was 1mm different socket size than the bolt that came off the car (this was first oil change, so it was the one from the factory). They were the same thread/length of bolt, but the head size was off by 1mm, which I found interesting.

The part number on the new bolt was a match to ECS, and it was Uro branded. The bolt applies to many VW's, so maybe that's just the size head Uro parts puts on their drain plugs (slightly different than OEM VW).

Just interesting and thought I'd mention it; anyone else experience similar?


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## knedrgr (Jun 6, 2011)

Eye Candy White said:


> Changed the oil in my wife's Atlas on Sunday. Interesting tidbit; bought the oil service kit from ECS, and the drain plug bolt was 1mm different socket size than the bolt that came off the car (this was first oil change, so it was the one from the factory). They were the same thread/length of bolt, but the head size was off by 1mm, which I found interesting.
> 
> The part number on the new bolt was a match to ECS, and it was Uro branded. The bolt applies to many VW's, so maybe that's just the size head Uro parts puts on their drain plugs (slightly different than OEM VW).
> 
> Just interesting and thought I'd mention it; anyone else experience similar?


My OEM bolt is 19mm. Heard someone had mentioned theirs was 18mm.


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## Hedgehodge (Nov 7, 2008)

knedrgr said:


> My OEM bolt is 19mm. Heard someone had mentioned theirs was 18mm.


wow i dont see an oil pan drain bolt wtf?!?

edit, im an idiot obviously, so stressed, now my atlas is sitting without oil on ramps and a snowstorm tomorrow lol. What i get for picking oil thats hard to find huh. Now i have to wait until FCP Euro is open. My other half picked up the 5L and it was the wrong one, already put the 1L in, either way ugh, its Sunday, everything is closed. I looked right at it and didnt see it, not used to it being so clean under there and blending in with the pan.

18mm coming off and 19mm going on *boggle*


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## knedrgr (Jun 6, 2011)

Hedgehodge said:


> wow i dont see an oil pan drain bolt wtf?!?
> 
> edit, im an idiot obviously, so stressed, now my atlas is sitting without oil on ramps and a snowstorm tomorrow lol. What i get for picking oil thats hard to find huh. Now i have to wait until FCP Euro is open. My other half picked up the 5L and it was the wrong one, already put the 1L in, either way ugh, its Sunday, everything is closed. I looked right at it and didnt see it, not used to it being so clean under there and blending in with the pan.
> 
> 18mm coming off and 19mm going on *boggle*



Hope you'll get it straighten out. 

Took me a second to find the drain plug as well.


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## Hedgehodge (Nov 7, 2008)

Soooo, Leta just say my first oil change on this was a disaster, snow storm and mid change I got wrong oil, left on ramps for next day.


Anyway, it took 6L....in middle hashed section. I know that's like 6.3quarts and it says 5.8.

I put 4.5 in and it was full, started it for 10 sec to cyxle oil into oil filter, then waited, measured and poured, waited, measured, pour , wait measure until middle.

Let sit on level ground and waited 25 minutes and measured again, still middle.

Went to store and came out and measured, same. 6L with oil filter changed out...shrug


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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

Hedgehodge said:


> Soooo, Leta just say my first oil change on this was a disaster, snow storm and mid change I got wrong oil, left on ramps for next day.
> 
> 
> Anyway, it took 6L....in middle hashed section. I know that's like 6.3quarts and it says 5.8.
> ...


Hedge, what oil did you end up going with? Are you a 2019 or 2018? 

Bout to do mine this weekend since Im 4k on factory fill. May use castrol 0w-40 502 even though Im a 2019. Just want to cheaply replace the factory fill out. 2 jugs and a filter shall do.

Havent found out what my local dealer uses yet. 


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## Hfqkhal (Oct 14, 2018)

Andre VW said:


> Hedge, what oil did you end up going with? Are you a 2019 or 2018?
> 
> Bout to do mine this weekend since Im 4k on factory fill. May use castrol 0w-40 502 even though Im a 2019. Just want to cheaply replace the factory fill out. 2 jugs and a filter shall do.
> 
> ...


reading the manual today said 502 0w30 and if not available go with 504 0w30


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## Hedgehodge (Nov 7, 2008)

Me, I did liqui moly 0w-40 energy a40 or something. Under the hood it says 502/505 dealers say 0w30, book says 0w30 but can use 0w40 to iirc. 

What I'm getting at is, if anything happens I'm saying I was going for 10k on oil change so I reset my reminder and it's still the same factory oil lol... I mean really what's it matter, as long as it's 30/40 and meets 502 or 505.

I take no responsibility of others lol. 

I mail all my car's oil changes out to Blackstone anyway


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## Hedgehodge (Nov 7, 2008)

Curious on oil temps with 0w30 you guys are getting, to bad can't see pressure with stock setup.

197-220 with 0w40 sitting idle and then driving around town


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## knedrgr (Jun 6, 2011)

Hedgehodge said:


> 197-220 with 0w40 sitting idle and then driving around town


0w40 Mobile 1. Currently in the North with avg temp of 20-40F. Seeing 197-210 from idle to highway cruising at 70mph with Rhino Rack bars.


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## Hfqkhal (Oct 14, 2018)

knedrgr said:


> 0w40 Mobile 1. Currently in the North with avg temp of 20-40F. Seeing 197-210 from idle to highway cruising at 70mph with Rhino Rack bars.


For me when fully warm it has been at between 190 and 210 that is with outdoor temps being as high as 50 F. But when cold temps are in the 20’s F it will Not even go above 198. The oil in it is the factory delivered. 


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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

Hedgehodge said:


> Curious on oil temps with 0w30 you guys are getting, to bad can't see pressure with stock setup.
> 
> 197-220 with 0w40 sitting idle and then driving around town


Factory fill here. 4k miles.

75F outside air.
198F oil when sitting idle with AC on in a parking lot.
214F oil when driving on highway long term 80mph.

Will be changing my oil this weekend. I have a 2019 but going with Castrol 0W-40 502 oil. Want to get factory fill out. Will do dealer oil change when I hit 10k/1yr.

Interested in your UOA here or bitog. Link it when ready.


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## Notabiker (Mar 30, 2019)

I'll bet that they went from a 5-40 to a 0-30 is for fuel economy only.

Just picked up a nice '18 atlas 2.0 se and looking for info on the first oil change. Anyone go crazy and use rotella t6 5w-40 diesel oil in this car? I use that in all my motorcycles so...

Also transmission oil changes needed like the car dsg trans?


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## eejtalk (Oct 5, 2018)

*Fumoto issue*

Fumoto issue! Even if you get the F106SX, you must have an extension (ADP 106). The reason is the plastic cover, it will hit when the valve is pointed down. You need the extension so you can point it to the side, and then have the hose to go into pan.

I didn't have the extension so I put the original back in even though I didn't have a replacement washer.

Other notes from my oil change:
1) My drain bolt took an 18mm socket. 19mm may have worked as well but likely would have slipped.

2) Don't use a torque wrench on the filter drain. I did with 6 hex, and still slipped/stripped it a bit even at the low 10 newton meters. Just make it flush which is barley snug and you'll be better off. I was surprised how easy it was to everything off. The filter housing was the most difficult just because the friction of the o-ring.

3) 5.8 quarts is not enough. I think more like 5.8 liters, which gets you to about 6.2 quarts. I always put a little fresh oil down while it's draining. I know it doesn't do much, but I feel better like I'm flushing it. Assuming I needed 5.8 quarts, I barely poured any of the 1 quart bottle, maybe a few tablespoons. After I was all done, I poured the full 5 quart, and then just about 9/10ths of the single quart. Ran the engine, and was right at the minimum if not below. I poured the rest in and then let my wife drive for a short 10 min trip. After sitting overnight, it was barely above the minimum. Another 1/4 quart should put it right in the middle, but I will test. So 5.8-5.9 quarts is "enough" to be in the range, but not in the middle where I would like it. IGNORE that video on youtube where the guy says 7 quarts and shows it at the top of the range. It's over-filled. If it's technically in range, it's at the very least a waste of oil/money, and could lead to serious issues under high temp strain.

4) I threw away that stupid plastic connector. 

5) After I was all done, I realized you don't need to take off all the 25mm torx in the front, just the one in the middle.

Side note, I used 0W-40 Castrol Edge European formula based on everything I read in this thread. I have a 2018, don't care about gas mileage, headed into summer, and meets what my manual says. Until they come out with a correction, I'll probably continue to use this. It's a good price and available at Wal-Mart, at least when it's in stock

Thanks everyone for all the info in this thread.


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## TWs/VW (Jan 9, 2019)

*Which Oil Filter? Mann, Mahle, OEM*

I’ve read allot of different opinions on oil filters, brands, which are best, worst, etc, but still wasn’t sure which to choose for my first oil change. So I got-hold of the three leading European brand filters available for the 3.6L Atlas just to compare for myself. My very un-professional observations are written below. So I ask, which of these three filters choices would you choose and why?

MAHLE (Bulgaria) OX 983D, $17.00 – 74-Pleats, 3.0oz

VW-UFI (China) 03H-115-562, $12.00 – 84-Pleats, 3.7oz

Mann Filter (China) HU8009Z, $19.00 – 83-Pleats, 3.9oz

My observations: The synthetic filter fabric appears to be identical in all three filters. All three claim to meet VW specifications. All are of similar in construction; in fact, the Mann Filter and VW-UFI filters look like they were made in the same factory using the same tooling - almost identical in every way, except the Mann Filter has 1-less pleat (83) than the VW-UFI (84). On the other hand, the MAHLE filter has the least number of pleats (74) and is lighter in weight, but looks more uniformly constructed.

Anyway – all input welcome and appreciated…

TW


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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

Vw ufi


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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

VW UFI

1. To save a few bucks. 

2. Same filter as factory and dealer so the dealer will never know I also do my own additonal oil changes and cant claim BS against my warranty.

3. Has VW/Audi marked on it because every once in a while I go under the car, take the filter housing out and drool at the logos on the filter.


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## A4MOS19 (Oct 2, 2018)

*2019 Atlas Spec Oil*

I know the different oil that has been specified for our 2019 Atlas' has been discussed to great lengths here. Availability of 0W-30 VW504 00 was hard to find. Dealers in my area still don't stock it. 

ECS has Castrol available in 0W-30 VW 504 00. Not sure how long this has been available there, I hadn't noticed it before on earlier searches. Just thought I should let you 2019 owners know. 

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/engoil/ge525451l/


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## TWs/VW (Jan 9, 2019)

*Castrol Professional Long Life 0W-30 at $8.83/Qt*



A4MOS19 said:


> I know the different oil that has been specified for our 2019 Atlas' has been discussed to great lengths here. Availability of 0W-30 VW504 00 was hard to find. Dealers in my area still don't stock it.
> 
> ECS has Castrol available in 0W-30 VW 504 00. Not sure how long this has been available there, I hadn't noticed it before on earlier searches. Just thought I should let you 2019 owners know.
> 
> https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/engoil/ge525451l/


Thank you for that. The price isn't bad either. I would have definitely gone with Castrol Professional Long Life 0W-30 if I'd know where to get it - Castrol Longlife III is the #1 VAG recommended 0W-30 under the new oil specs. I instead went with Mobil 1 ESP X1 0W-30 -- and I know, the bottles still don't list VW 50400, but it is in fact VW 50400 as well as MB 229.31/51/52 approved and is listed in VAG's approved oils technical bulletin. I ended up paying about $8.33/Qt for the Mobil 1 X1 ESP on Amazon, so Castrol LL03 at $8.83/Qt (might actually be sold in Liters) isn't bad at all - Great find, might want to stock-up!

TW


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Second oil change for this beast at ~15K (do it ~7.5K/when it makes sense for warranty/recalls/campaigns etc. - only drive ~12K/year). The 3.6 VR6 is known to be fuel-diluter so this seems in-line with what I've read. Low viscosity is interesting, not sure there. Dealer should be/confirmed use of Castrol OE 5W40. I will likely DIY with LiquiMoly once we get to a point that I don't need any of the above at the dealer which should be soon I hope!


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## WV dubvee (Sep 11, 2012)

*Royal purple*

Hey been forever, but I’m back in a VW! 2019 Atlas contemplating first oil change, saw the post and thought I’d ask what the opinion was on Royal Purple. Anyone have a thought on it as oil for the vr6 atlas?


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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

A4MOS19 said:


> I know the different oil that has been specified for our 2019 Atlas' has been discussed to great lengths here. Availability of 0W-30 VW504 00 was hard to find. Dealers in my area still don't stock it.
> 
> ECS has Castrol available in 0W-30 VW 504 00. Not sure how long this has been available there, I hadn't noticed it before on earlier searches. Just thought I should let you 2019 owners know.
> 
> https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/engoil/ge525451l/


Does that carry the MB 229.5x specs?


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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

KarstGeo said:


> Second oil change for this beast at ~15K (do it ~7.5K/when it makes sense for warranty/recalls/campaigns etc. - only drive ~12K/year). The 3.6 VR6 is known to be fuel-diluter so this seems in-line with what I've read. Low viscosity is interesting, not sure there. Dealer should be/confirmed use of Castrol OE 5W40. I will likely DIY with LiquiMoly once we get to a point that I don't need any of the above at the dealer which should be soon I hope!


Cool. Thanks for sharing. 

With regards to fuel dilution...how would you consider your driving style? Heavy/light foot? City/highway? Short/long drives?


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Andre VW said:


> Cool. Thanks for sharing.
> 
> With regards to fuel dilution...how would you consider your driving style? Heavy/light foot? City/highway? Short/long drives?
> 
> ...


Mainly short around-town trips for this vehicle smattered with a few long trips now and again...family hauler duty. Wife is light-footed.


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## TWs/VW (Jan 9, 2019)

KarstGeo said:


> Second oil change for this beast at ~15K (do it ~7.5K/when it makes sense for warranty/recalls/campaigns etc. - only drive ~12K/year). The 3.6 VR6 is known to be fuel-diluter so this seems in-line with what I've read. Low viscosity is interesting, not sure there. Dealer should be/confirmed use of Castrol OE 5W40. I will likely DIY with LiquiMoly once we get to a point that I don't need any of the above at the dealer which should be soon I hope!


I don't want to cause you any worries, but does anyone think the wear metals found in this oil at 15.000 miles is way too high? At how many miles was the first oil change? Was that sampled and tested? I've studied several lab reports on Atlas VR6's and this one would worry me, but maybe I'm just being overly concerned.

TW


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

TWs/VW said:


> I don't want to cause you any worries, but does anyone think the wear metals found in this oil at 15.000 miles is way too high? At how many miles was the first oil change? Was that sampled and tested? I've studied several lab reports on Atlas VR6's and this one would worry me, but maybe I'm just being overly concerned.
> 
> TW


First oil change at ~7.5K at dealer. No test. Next round I'm testing AND DIY change with LM.


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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

TWs/VW said:


> I don't want to cause you any worries, but does anyone think the wear metals found in this oil at 15.000 miles is way too high? At how many miles was the first oil change? Was that sampled and tested? I've studied several lab reports on Atlas VR6's and this one would worry me, but maybe I'm just being overly concerned.
> 
> TW


I would say its only the 2nd oil the engine has seen so nothing to worry and is normal:

1. You can never get all the oil out between changes so some wear metals within the factory fill and breakin are still going to contaminate your next few oil changes. Need at least 2 changes to get it all out. Plus if its dealer changes, theyre arent waiting for all the drip drip drip to stop. 

2. 14k miles. Engine is still a baby and was breaking in its last 10% during this last change. The oil in the sump now should come out cleaner at next change.


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## TWs/VW (Jan 9, 2019)

Andre VW said:


> Does that carry the MB 229.5x specs?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


This post got my interest as well, so I contacted ESC Tuning for more info. What I got was; "for more information on the oil itself you will have to visit Castrol oil's website, and "Right now i do not have a product code for it. It comes directly from Volkswagen/Audi." I just couldn't confirm exactly what they're actually offering

If anyone learns what they are selling, I'd appreciate the info. I would really like to find a U.S. source for Castrol Edge Professional Longlife III 0W-30 (50400/50700 only), Castrol Product Code 469848, and/or Castrol Edge Professional LL03 5W-30 (00504/00507 only), Castrol Product Code 467769.

ESC's product description also makes reference to LL03 which I don't think is available in 0W-30 and the "Mfg Part #GE525451QDSP" they're cross-referencing doesn't seem to match anything I could find in the Audi/VW system.

TW


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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

TWs/VW said:


> This post got my interest as well, so I contacted ESC Tuning for more info. What I got was; "for more information on the oil itself you will have to visit Castrol oil's website, and "Right now i do not have a product code for it. It comes directly from Volkswagen/Audi." I just couldn't confirm exactly what they're actually offering
> 
> If anyone learns what they are selling, I'd appreciate the info. I would really like to find a U.S. source for Castrol Edge Professional Longlife III 0W-30 (50400/50700 only), Castrol Product Code 469848, and/or Castrol Edge Professional LL03 5W-30 (00504/00507 only), Castrol Product Code 467769.
> 
> ...


Amazon sells it? See link below. It looks like it does not carry the MB 229.5x cert. There are cheaper and better certified oils than this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UXUXUZE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_P16XCbWQ0TYMK


After some more thinking, I decided, for all my future oil changes I am going to use a 5W-30 VW504 approved oil for my 2019. Simplify my life and rests my brain. Lots of options readily available on amazon and ecstuning. Plus I live in South Florida so I dont need the super low cold flow that a 0W offers. In addition, the 5w-30 easily contains all the BMW, Porsche, MB and VW certs in one.






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## TWs/VW (Jan 9, 2019)

Andre VW said:


> Amazon sells it? See link below. It looks like it does not carry the MB 229.5x cert. There are cheaper and better certified oils than this.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UXUXUZE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_P16XCbWQ0TYMK
> 
> ...


I've reached the same conclusion. I'm currently running 0W-30 (Mobil 1 X1 ESP - 00504/229.52); but like you, I live in Florida so I'm probably going to move to a 5W-30 soon. For me that presents two choices, (1) Castrol Professional LL03 5W-30, or (2) Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30. I'm sure both are great oils; both are VW 00504 approved, which is a great improvement over the 00502 specification. The only difference I find is that Mobil 1 ESP also has MB 229.52 approval and the Castrol is strictly 00504/00507 only - of course it was designed specifically for VW (No MB approvals). I don't think you can go wrong with either of these oils living here in sunny Florida.

TW


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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

TW, 

How are you handling dealer oil changes? One of the dealers said they only use 5w-40 even though I told them thats not what the sticker and manuals says. Havent checked others dealers. So far I did my own oil change at 4k with tried and true castrol 0w-40. Will decide soon what to do when I hit 10K. Thinking dealer does 10k, 20k, 30k and I do my own at 4k, 14k, 24k etc.

I need to keep good dealer records since I have a 16yr/172k powertrain warranty. But I want the good oil so I dont have to worry about other premature stuff.




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## TWs/VW (Jan 9, 2019)

Andre VW said:


> TW,
> 
> How are you handling dealer oil changes? One of the dealers said they only use 5w-40 even though I told them thats not what the sticker and manuals says. Havent checked others dealers. So far I did my own oil change at 4k with tried and true castrol 0w-40. Will decide soon what to do when I hit 10K. Thinking dealer does 10k, 20k, 30k and I do my own at 4k, 14k, 24k etc.
> 
> ...


Same as you Andre, I do it myself. I got the same confused responses from the Dealers in my area; some weren't even aware of the VW 00.504 specification and were still using 5W-40 (00.502) in the 2019s, which is OK. The new low-viscosity oil specification is for better gas mileage; which I'm all for, so VW has now specified the 00.504 which protects much better then a 30-weight oil would in the 00.502 specification. I guess allot of folks and dealerships just haven't got the word yet.

I dumped the factory fill at 1,000 miles just to clean-out the break-in metals - I also sent it off to the lab - no surprises there. I'll sample again after another 1,000-2,000 and so-on, until I'm happy with the metal deposits, or lack of. If I don't see rapid improvements, I'll switch to the 5W-30 (VW 00.504) for better engine-start protection in our warm climate, not to mention the dreaded Stop/Start system (I'm working on fix for that) which I'm convinced is bad on the engine. I know I'm being overly cautious, but I'm going for 300,000+ miles, likes my other cars; and actually, oil is one of the cheapest parts you can buy for your car.

All the best...

TW

P.S. You don't have to get oil changes at the Dealership to maintain your warranty, you just have to keep good records, receipts, etc. to prove the vehicle was maintained properly.


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## Mitch82 (Oct 15, 2018)

*Enigne Oil Change - Where to go (because of warranty) ?*

Hi guys,

I am sure this has been posted, but I amy not use the proper keyword to search.

I need to do the first poil change (the dashboard is yelling at me, today is the due date... LOL).

My Atlas is not even a year old. Regarding the warranty, do I have to do the oil change at the VW dealrship or can I go anywhere I want to do it ?



Also, how to reset the reminder for the oil change ?


Thanks guys.


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## GTINC (Jan 28, 2005)

Mitch82 said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I am sure this has been posted, but I amy not use the proper keyword to search.
> 
> ...


You can use the procedure in the OM to reset the reminder. If you are not a year old and less than 10k miles, you don't need to change the oil. But, you don't need to use a dealer to do the change. But wise to use the proper oil and filter and keep records of it.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Mitch82 said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I am sure this has been posted, but I amy not use the proper keyword to search.
> 
> ...


No, you don't have to have the oil changed at a VW dealer, just need to follow their service/maintenance schedule so 10K miles/1 year, use an oil that meets VW's approvals, and an appropriate filter. Just keep a record i.e. receipt and a spreadsheet or similar. Sure, some dealers lie and tell you have to use the dealer but it's completely false. You can use a Fram filter and Walmart oil, as long as it meets the approvals. The odds of ever having a warranty issue related to lubrication AND having the dealer dive into your records is so slim anyway but I would say be safe. The owner's manual tells you how to reset your minder. Good luck.


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## Mitch82 (Oct 15, 2018)

KarstGeo said:


> No, you don't have to have the oil changed at a VW dealer, just need to follow their service/maintenance schedule so 10K miles/1 year, use an oil that meets VW's approvals, and an appropriate filter. Just keep a record i.e. receipt and a spreadsheet or similar. Sure, some dealers lie and tell you have to use the dealer but it's completely false. You can use a Fram filter and Walmart oil, as long as it meets the approvals. The odds of ever having a warranty issue related to lubrication AND having the dealer dive into your records is so slim anyway but I would say be safe. The owner's manual tells you how to reset your minder. Good luck.


Hi KarstGeo,

Thanks a lot for the information. This is really good to know. Awesome. Thanks.


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## mhjett (Oct 16, 2000)

Thought i'd share a little info on the oil capacity issue (there's a YouTube video earlier in this thread where some Amsoil doofus puts 7 quarts in because 5.8 wasn't enough to reach the hash marks on the dipstick). 

For my third oil change, I put in 5.8 qts, ran the car briefly, and the level read below the dipstick hash marks (odd because it read perfect right off the bat the first two changes). Rather than risk over-filling, I actually drove it to operating temp and re-checked, and the level was right at the top of the hash marks. I think the oil filter anti-drain-back valve has something to do with it. 

Moral of the story -- I think 5.8 qts (per the owner's manual) is correct for the 3.6 as used in the Atlas. 

Makes we wonder if some of the catalytic converter failures I've read about on here have anything to do with overfilling the crankcase... just a thought (although I'd think VW would have dealers check oil levels as part of warranty approval).


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

The cat issues are related to a software update that doesn't play nice with the cat.

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## Eye Candy White (Nov 9, 2006)

I'm sticking with the 5W40 in my 2018.

I used Motul at the first change, but went with Liqui-Moly Voll-Synthese Engine Oil (5W-40) this time from ECS, as it was $20 cheaper than the Motul, and has gotten equally positive reviews. I'm changing between 5-7K miles really just depending on my weekend schedules/availability - will likely change it this weekend or the following.

Will report back on any differences in how the car runs on LM vs. Motul, but not expecting to notice anything given both are high quality and recommended VW specs.


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## Biff Tannen (Jan 24, 2005)

I just did the first oil change on my VR6. I drained just over 5 quarts and put in 6. The dipstick is reading at the lowest full level. Does this thing really take more than 6 quarts?


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Biff Tannen said:


> I just did the first oil change on my VR6. I drained just over 5 quarts and put in 6. The dipstick is reading at the lowest full level. Does this thing really take more than 6 quarts?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'd drive it around a bit then check after it cools down/on level ground. Should be 5.8L.


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## Chris4789 (Nov 29, 2017)

According to my manual (and the 3 times I've changed the oil) 5.8 Qts. are needed. This assumes the filter is also changed as required. 
Can you see any leaks? Any missing the funnel (perhaps by a helper assisting)?


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## Biff Tannen (Jan 24, 2005)

Chris4789 said:


> According to my manual (and the 3 times I've changed the oil) 5.8 Qts. are needed. This assumes the filter is also changed as required.
> Can you see any leaks? Any missing the funnel (perhaps by a helper assisting)?


The car wasn’t warmed up when I did it, so some probably was still in the system, which explains why I didn’t get out 5.8qts. However, the amount in is what puzzles me. I’ve done a million oil changes and always the same routine. Put the oil in and check the level. Fire it up so it fills up the filter, then check level again. Top off oil if needed and do final level check. 

Did that same procedure on the Atlas and im at the bottom of the hash marks on the dipstick after 6 quarts in. No leaks, no spills. I’ll keep checking after driving a bit and see what happens. 


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## Hfqkhal (Oct 14, 2018)

Biff Tannen said:


> The car wasn’t warmed up when I did it, so some probably was still in the system, which explains why I didn’t get out 5.8qts. However, the amount in is what puzzles me. I’ve done a million oil changes and always the same routine. Put the oil in and check the level. Fire it up so it fills up the filter, then check level again. Top off oil if needed and do final level check.
> 
> Did that same procedure on the Atlas and im at the bottom of the hash marks on the dipstick after 6 quarts in. No leaks, no spills. I’ll keep checking after driving a bit and see what happens.
> 
> ...


How long do you wait after the drive? My recommendation is to do the check in the morning before any drive. At least at that point the oil would have completely settled 


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## 325_guy (Nov 7, 2015)

*CDVC (V6) Oil Change Guide*

Greetings everyone. The sticky on here for the Atlas V6 oil change seems to be a lot of bloat about which oil is better and not a whole lot about actually changing the oil. So, I've written my own. Hope this helps someone on here. 

Car:
2018 Atlas SE FWD

Engine:
CDVC (VR6, FSI)

Time Required:
1 hour

Tools Required:
Ramps
12" funnel
Oil Catch Pan w/ at least 6qt capacity
T25 driver
T45 driver
6mm hex driver
18mm socket
36mm socket
Torque wrench
VCDS (or equivalent device) and laptop

Consumables:
6qts your preferred reciprocating energy conversion device lubrication fluid
Oil Filter, 03H 115 562
Drain Plug, N-908-132-02

Procedure:
Place the front end of the car securely on ramps or jackstands. 
Get underneath the car. Remove belly pan by removing the 11 T25 screws around the perimeter of the pan (3x each side, 1x center front, 4x rear), followed by the 3 T45 bolts in the center of the belly pan. Let the back of the belly pan drop a bit and slide it rearward and out of the way. 
Using the 18mm socket, loosen the drain plug and let the oil drain into your catch pan. 
After the oil is drained from the oil sump, position the catch pan underneath the oil filter housing, located at the front of the oil sump. You'll notice a large hex head on the cap, with a plug in the center. Position your funnel underneath the hex head and loosen the plug with your 6mm hex driver. Use the funnel to catch the oil and direct it into your drain pan. Otherwise, the way the oil splashes out of this will make it splash everywhere underneath your Atlas. 
Once the oil is drained from the filter housing, use your 36mm socket to remove the filter cap. Discard the filter and replace the o-ring on the cap (should come in the box with your new filter. 
Take your new filter and lubricate the o-ring on the end. Stick the filter up into the filter housing until it seats. Lubricate the filter cap o-ring and install it. Simply tighten until snug- the o-ring makes the seal here, not torque. 
Take your new drain plug and install. Thread it in by hand to ensure it is not cross-threaded then tighten to 22 ft-lbs. 
Go back up top. Ensure there is no debris around the oil filler cap, and remove. Add 5.5 qts of your preferred reciprocating energy conversion device lubrication fluid.
Start the engine and let it run for a few minutes. Check underneath to ensure there are no leaks. 
Stop the engine. Re-install the belly pan. The three T45 bolts only need be snug, not torqued down, else they will strip. 
Start the engine again and back off your ramps. Using the VCDS SRI Reset function, reset the service interval. On mine, I reset both the oil change and the inspection intervals as I completed both. If you have another scan tool, that's outside the scope of this how-to. 
Stop the engine. Let sit for 15 minutes. Check the oil level and add oil as necessary. The specified fill amount is 5.8 quarts, so you may have to add a bit to satisfy the dipstick.

That's it! Oil change complete.


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## 325_guy (Nov 7, 2015)

Comments are welcome, however, there are already two threads devoted to which oil is better for the Atlas. Please keep oil choice comments on those threads.


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## Chris4789 (Nov 29, 2017)

*Clean clear routine - thank you*

I agree another thread on “Oil Change Routine” changed into an oil discussion, but it did contain some good info on the actual Oil Change Routine including good pictures; # 243 and 281; YouTube (and comments) #316
https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthr...il-Change-Routine/page10&highlight=oil+change
The Push Pin or Rivet (as VW calls it) is VW P/N N-038-549-4 $2.25; If the center pin is not pushed all the way in, the rivet is easy to remove and re-use. If the pin gets pushed in too far & is flush it is tougher to remove.


For those without VCDS the Oil Change and service routine can be changed through the Infotainment system on page 30 of the 2018 OM :

Reset service Reminder:* Ignition*off; Hold trip reset button; turn on Ignition (foot OFF brake);* "Reset Oil?" flashes on screen; Let go of trip button; press again;* "The service Interval was reset" should appear;* Check on Infotainment Center;* Car; Setup:* scroll down to service;*look at “mileage to next service”; I turned the car on and off again for it to read correctly. *
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMcKtkv8XEw


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## A4MOS19 (Oct 2, 2018)

Nice capture both of you on this process. :thumbup:

I had already bookmarked page 10 of the other thread, and will now add this one. Doing my first DIY oil change this next week, and have used this combined info in my order of needed parts and tools. Think I will go for the Nissan type rivet/retaining pin if I find the VW part is the challenge commented on by some. This and the mentioned oil selection seem to be the only decisions required after these two threads. 

Thanks for the info.


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## Andre VW (Dec 12, 2018)

Thank you and well done.
Couple comments:

-I usually loosen oil cap fully first to prevent vacuum when draining oil.

-6mm hex drain for oil filter housing. Havent used that to drain oil from housing yet as I didnt know if it needs washer or o ring replacement. Any details on that?

-What kind of oil so you use? Just kidding.


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## Chris4789 (Nov 29, 2017)

*Good comments and question.*

I missed the Plug "O" ring in the bottom of the filter cover during my review of the process, good catch. According to this VW parts diagram https://www.vwdirectautoparts.com/v...sel-premium--3-6l-v6-gas/engine--engine-parts
The Plug “O” ring is Part Number: N-904-054-02 $1.28
I have not changed it in the 3 oil changes I’ve done. I put fresh oil on it before re-inserting into the filter cover and have not had any leaking. For $1.28 I will pick up a couple and perhaps replace it every other time.
Just to be clear, this Plug "O" ring is about 1" in diameter and is not the 3" one that comes with the oil filter.


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## Plater (Feb 3, 2019)

*rivet*

To remove the rivet I drilled a very small pilot hole
in the pin then screwed a small sheet metal screw in it
not all the so I could pry or pull it out tried it a couple times works good 
for now until I get the Nissan rivet also does anybody know 
the torque spec. in ft/lbs for the filter housing and oil plug seen a couple different
values


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## GTINC (Jan 28, 2005)

Plater said:


> .....also does anybody know the torque spec. in ft/lbs for the filter housing and oil plug seen a couple different values


If you need to ask, maybe this task is too much for you.


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## Chris4789 (Nov 29, 2017)

Posts on the previously mentioned "Oil Change Routine" thread had these numbers. 

-Canister Plug Torque 10 Nm 
-Filter housing Torque 25Nm 
-Drain Pan Plug*Torque 30 Nm


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## A4MOS19 (Oct 2, 2018)

*2020 VR6 Oil*

Just curious what the manual, as well as the under hood label, is specifying for engine oil on the VR6 for 2020?

I know the 2018 called for a different oil than the 2019.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

The 3.6 VW is unchanged since it's inception in the Atlas and will use either an oil with the VW502 00 approval (typically 5W40 with a few 0W40s) or an oil with the VW504 00 approval (typically 5W30 or a few 0W30s). If you just focus on approval vs. weight, it's much easier. The confusion comes when stickers/manual blend the two - asking for a VW504 00 AND 0W30 becomes challenging and isn't necessary - this oil is somewhat hard to find. VW504 00 is all that matters and they are asking for a 0W30 to increase fuel economy/reduce emissions by some 00000 of a decimal place. My 2018's underhood sticker just says "use a oil that meets the VW502 00 or VW504 00 approval". The manual goes into lot more detail which counters itself and the sticker. I just use (and the dealer) a 5W40 that has the VW502 00 approval. Approvals...the end.


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## A4MOS19 (Oct 2, 2018)

KarstGeo said:


> The 3.6 VW is unchanged since it's inception in the Atlas and will use either an oil with the VW502 00 approval (typically 5W40 with a few 0W40s) or an oil with the VW504 00 approval (typically 5W30 or a few 0W30s). If you just focus on approval vs. weight, it's much easier. The confusion comes when stickers/manual blend the two - asking for a VW504 00 AND 0W30 becomes challenging and isn't necessary - this oil is somewhat hard to find. VW504 00 is all that matters and they are asking for a 0W30 to increase fuel economy/reduce emissions by some 00000 of a decimal place. My 2018's underhood sticker just says "use a oil that meets the VW502 00 or VW504 00 approval". The manual goes into lot more detail which counters itself and the sticker. I just use (and the dealer) a 5W40 that has the VW502 00 approval. Approvals...the end.




All so true KarstGeo on your part, and all so confusing on VW’s part. Was just curious to see if they defined it any differently on the 2020.

You’re correct about the 0W-30 (VW 504/507) being hard to find. Almost impossible in early 2019, then finally started showing up by mid year at dealers and online ordering. Still not stocked at my local auto parts, or box stores.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

A4MOS19 said:


> All so true KarstGeo on your part, and all so confusing on VW’s part. Was just curious to see if they defined it any differently on the 2020.
> 
> You’re correct about the 0W-30 (VW 504/507) being hard to find. Almost impossible in early 2019, then finally started showing up by mid year at dealers and online ordering. Still not stocked at my local auto parts, or box stores.


I'll place my wager on 504 and 0W30 for 2020, just like 2019 but cool if someone can chime in with a pic of the sticker/book. VW goofs this by not focusing on approvals and tossing in the weight. 504 oils were not recommended state-side until recently b/c they were developed for long-service intervals in Europe where the fuels were higher quality and the oil didn't need the same additive pack as the full-SAPS 502 oils that are/were recommended here. You end up with folks that buy VWs and see a weight and just use whatever oil at that weight vs. the correct approval oil at that weight. I agree, shame on VW for not making this as simple as it can be.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Just checking back in - here is my fourth change on the Atlas at ~25K this July. Still having it done at the dealer...thought I would be DIY at this point but recalls/service campaigns just beg to have the dealer take care of it out of convenience when it's in....maybe next go around I'll finally get under it and DIY! Dealer bulk Castrol 5W40. No noticeable consumption. Driving is almost all short-trip/around town stuff for our family vehicle with some highway/out-of-town trips from time to time.


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## TehLib (Oct 15, 2020)

Hi All, I have a 2019 Atlas with the V6. I am attempting my first oil change on it and have read some conflicting information. I believe I need a socket for the oil filter housing cap. Is it 32mm or 36mm? Need to know before I go buy one from Canadian Tire. I am using Pennzoil Platinum 0W30 Euro, which says its a 504 equivalent.

Also Can someone confirm he following:

- Torque Spec for Oil Filter Housing
- Torque Spec for Drain Plug.
- Total Amount of Oil Required. (I have read various things between 5.8 to nearly 7 Litres).


Ray,.


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## Chris4789 (Nov 29, 2017)

I know there is a lot to go through to find what info you need
My Post #246 Has the following info from doing four oil changes on my 2018 SELP V6:
- oil filter housing cap is 36mm
- Torque Spec for Oil Filter Housing 25Nm
- Torque Spec for Drain Plug. 30 Nm torque 
- Total Amount of Oil Required. 5.8 Qts. 
Good luck


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## A4MOS19 (Oct 2, 2018)

KarstGeo said:


> Just checking back in - here is my fourth change on the Atlas at ~25K this July. Still having it done at the dealer...thought I would be DIY at this point but recalls/service campaigns just beg to have the dealer take care of it out of convenience when it's in....maybe next go around I'll finally get under it and DIY! Dealer bulk Castrol 5W40. No noticeable consumption. Driving is almost all short-trip/around town stuff for our family vehicle with some highway/out-of-town trips from time to time.


Thanks for sharing your latest oil analysis KarstGeo. I'm curious what prompted them to support trying 6K on your next change? Do you see anything in their reports that make you cautious for trying the recommended 10K? I've been doing about the same intervals as you, just never have gained the peace of mind of going the full 10K.


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## mhjett (Oct 16, 2000)

Saw this thread was bumped. I have a Blackstone analysis for my last change (just under 30k mi) and can post it up to add a data point.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

A4MOS19 said:


> Thanks for sharing your latest oil analysis KarstGeo. I'm curious what prompted them to support trying 6K on your next change? Do you see anything in their reports that make you cautious for trying the recommended 10K? I've been doing about the same intervals as you, just never have gained the peace of mind of going the full 10K.


Plenty of TBN is why. What I see is fuel dilution/viscosity drop that says 5-6k/2x a year is how I'll roll on this vehicle. Im sure 10k is just fine.

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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

mhjett said:


> Saw this thread was bumped. I have a Blackstone analysis for my last change (just under 30k mi) and can post it up to add a data point.


Post it.

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## mhjett (Oct 16, 2000)

KarstGeo said:


> Just checking back in - here is my fourth change on the Atlas at ~25K this July. Still having it done at the dealer...thought I would be DIY at this point but recalls/service campaigns just beg to have the dealer take care of it out of convenience when it's in....maybe next go around I'll finally get under it and DIY! Dealer bulk Castrol 5W40. No noticeable consumption. Driving is almost all short-trip/around town stuff for our family vehicle with some highway/out-of-town trips from time to time.


Here it is -- 28,958 miles. Castrol Edge 0w40 DIY changes since new.


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## GTINC (Jan 28, 2005)

KarstGeo said:


> Plenty of TBN is why. What I see is fuel dilution/viscosity drop that says 5-6k/2x a year is how I'll roll on this vehicle. Im sure 10k is just fine....


How, exactly, do you measure fuel dilution/viscosity drop of the oil?


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## A4MOS19 (Oct 2, 2018)

Thanks for adding your report mhjett. Comparing it with KarstGeo's is interesting. 

The Magnesium, Boron, Potassium, and Titanium, differences are what I'd like to learn more about. I see there's not a TBN listed on yours mhjett, do you know why? 

Thank you both for posting these.


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## mhjett (Oct 16, 2000)

A4MOS19 said:


> Thanks for adding your report mhjett. Comparing it with KarstGeo's is interesting.
> 
> The Magnesium, Boron, Potassium, and Titanium, differences are what I'd like to learn more about. I see there's not a TBN listed on yours mhjett, do you know why?
> 
> Thank you both for posting these.


Yep, no problem. I have no TBN because you have to pay extra for for it and I have no intentions of extending my OCIs so I'm not convinced it's worth it. 

I feel pretty reassured after three Blackstone reports that the engine's doing quite well. Just turned over 31k miles today. Was well worth it in my opinion, especially considering our significant investment in the car.


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## A4MOS19 (Oct 2, 2018)

Thanks mhjett, makes it pretty clear. The unit/location averages and universal averages vary between the 2 reports, in some categories by a lot. Is this because of the 2 different oils being used?


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## mhjett (Oct 16, 2000)

A4MOS19 said:


> Thanks mhjett, makes it pretty clear. The unit/location averages and universal averages vary between the 2 reports, in some categories by a lot. Is this because of the 2 different oils being used?


Per Blackstone (https://www.blackstone-labs.com/services/report-explanation/), Universal Averages is data across all of this type of engine that they've seen, and therefore across various types of oil. The difference in this data between my report and KarstGeo's is, I would guess, just because our reports were run on different dates and their data is continually changing. 

Unit/Location Averages is across that particular customer's engine.


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## A4MOS19 (Oct 2, 2018)

mhjett said:


> Per Blackstone (https://www.blackstone-labs.com/services/report-explanation/), Universal Averages is data across all of this type of engine that they've seen, and therefore across various types of oil. The difference in this data between my report and KarstGeo's is, I would guess, just because our reports were run on different dates and their data is continually changing.
> 
> Unit/Location Averages is across that particular customer's engine.


Thanks again mhjett. Thought the 2 reports would be somewhat comparing apples to apples, but I see there's much more to factor in how they calculate their results.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Note that flashpoint numbers of 370 etc. are showing some fuel, just not much which is likely some of the source of the viscosity drop. BS doesn't test for fuel directly so keep that in mind. The VR6 is a fuel-diluter.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

First DIY oil change on the Atlas complete at 30,460 miles for a 5,183 change interval/7 mos. For sure mine takes 6qts and that's the top of the dip stick - some folks are reporting that 6 is bottom of dip stick and it takes another qt so 7. Not sure there, maybe the sump got bigger at some point?

Easy job, I didn't have the 36mm oil filter housing socket so ordered from shopdap for next time. Just used a crescent to get it off but it's not ideal to do it that way.

So 5 qts of Liquimoly Leichtlauf High Tech 5W40, 0.75 qts of Castrol Edge 5W40 and 0.25 gts of Wallyworld Supertech 5W30 High Mileage...needed to get rid of some partial bottles. Also did Liquimoly Ceratec this go around and used their Proline Engine Flush before the change. Sample collected for used oil analysis for Blackstone as usual. No oil consumption to mention over the interval.

Also changed the f/r wipers (VW), cabin air filter (Corteco), topped off the wiper fluid and coolant, set the tires to 35/reset the TPMS, and reset the oil change/maintenance interval.

Didn't bother rotating the tires, I'm planning on getting new ones mid-year/35K. I'll do the brake fluid flush and Haldex awd service in a few weeks which completes the 30K/3year service. Bonus that crawling under your vehicle a few times a year really helps identify issues early - definately no leaks/issues with mine.


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## A4MOS19 (Oct 2, 2018)

Nice write up KarstGeo. The 6 qt to top of stick fill is what I experience on mine as well. Look forward to the Blackstone report and especially your Haldex service, hopefully in full detail. I'm coming up on 30K and would like to DIY on this.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

A4MOS19 said:


> Nice write up KarstGeo. The 6 qt to top of stick fill is what I experience on mine as well. Look forward to the Blackstone report and especially your Haldex service, hopefully in full detail. I'm coming up on 30K and would like to DIY on this.


The Haldex service is simple, I've done it on my Golf Sportwagen and the procedure is exactly the same. Shopdap's youtube video is good. I'm fairly confident I've posted some of my other UOA reports in this thread but will post up this one. Don't anticipate anything out of the ordinary.

(3) How to Perform an AWD MK7 Haldex Service - YouTube


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## Jack-e-son (Aug 11, 2020)

Thread Bump.. Lots of useful information. Still have questions.

I will be using Mobil1 ESP 0W-30 thats VW504 spec, and I plan on using an extractor for the oil change. I know its not the best route to take, but its the only thing i have to work with. No room for ramps or more jack stands, since i live in an apartment, space is limited. REALLY limited.

So, any one have any insight on using the extractor method? I want to do it every 5k myself and then the dealer at 10k intervals or 1 year whichever comes first.


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## kocyk123 (Mar 23, 2021)

It takes just shy of 6 qt. There is a video of the guy saying that it takes 7 and I thought it was the same case with mine but I learned that if you want to get the true reading, put just shy of 6qt, check the dip stick ( it may show very low), take the car for a spin and make sure that the oil temp goes to it's operating temp (~200 F).

Then let the car cool down for about an hour and then check the dipstick.

That is when you will get the correct dipstick reading.

I almost wanted to put another qt on my first oil change after watching the vid but then I was like there is no way the the manual will give you the wrong information so please tripple check before adding 7th qt.

Too bad that YT video has commenting section switched off and there is no way to let all the folks no to add 7qts.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Jack-e-son said:


> Thread Bump.. Lots of useful information. Still have questions.
> 
> I will be using Mobil1 ESP 0W-30 thats VW504 spec, and I plan on using an extractor for the oil change. I know its not the best route to take, but its the only thing i have to work with. No room for ramps or more jack stands, since i live in an apartment, space is limited. REALLY limited.
> 
> So, any one have any insight on using the extractor method? I want to do it every 5k myself and then the dealer at 10k intervals or 1 year whichever comes first.


How do you plan on removing the filter then - is this a 2.0?


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

kocyk123 said:


> It takes just shy of 6 qt. There is a video of the guy saying that it takes 7 and I thought it was the same case with mine but I learned that if you want to get the true reading, put just shy of 6qt, check the dip stick ( it may show very low), take the car for a spin and make sure that the oil temp goes to it's operating temp (~200 F).
> 
> Then let the car cool down for about an hour and then check the dipstick.
> 
> ...


Yes, 7 is too much, 6 is just right.


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## Jack-e-son (Aug 11, 2020)

KarstGeo said:


> How do you plan on removing the filter then - is this a 2.0?


V6.. If the oil change interval is good for 10k.. i don't see why i cant just siphon out the oil at 5k intervals and leave the oil filter in there, and then at 10k interval mark, go to VW and have everything changed properly by them.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Jack-e-son said:


> V6.. If the oil change interval is good for 10k.. i don't see why i cant just siphon out the oil at 5k intervals and leave the oil filter in there, and then at 10k interval mark, go to VW and have everything changed properly by them.


Ah got it - sure, the filter is certainly good for 10K.


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## Jack-e-son (Aug 11, 2020)

So, yeah. I shouldnt have problems just siphoning out the oil right?


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## mhjett (Oct 16, 2000)

Jack-e-son said:


> So, yeah. I shouldnt have problems just siphoning out the oil right?


No, but keep in mind that if you siphon instead of drain, you should account for the possibility when adding new oil that you may not have drained 100% of the old oil. Just don't overfill.


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## Jack-e-son (Aug 11, 2020)

yup. Ill keep that in mind. Since the extractor is clear and marked at 1qt intervals, I could pretty much gauge how much i got out.

Thanks


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## scott46ac (Jan 31, 2020)

I'm wondering if the panel that is removed to access oil drain and filter is really necessary? I spend half my time removing and reinstalling it. Can I leave it off?


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## kocyk123 (Mar 23, 2021)

Keep it on. I takes me about 2 minutes to remove it and put it back on. It will take you less time next time you'll do the oil change and it is not like you do it every week or month so put that extra couple minutes into the cover and do it right.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

scott46ac said:


> I'm wondering if the panel that is removed to access oil drain and filter is really necessary? I spend half my time removing and reinstalling it. Can I leave it off?


It will be when you run over something and it takes out your oil pan. This only takes an extra couple of minutes to remove/reinstall and provides not only protection for your important bits but a bit of undercarriage aerodynamics.


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

Thant plastic pan does _nothing_ to prevent or protect damage to the oil pan. All it does it keep it clean and help with road noise.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

speed51133! said:


> Thant plastic pan does _nothing_ to prevent or protect damage to the oil pan. All it does it keep it clean and help with road noise.


On my Sportwagen that same-quality full-length plastic pan saved my oil pan from a cast iron water main cover. Broke the belly pan, oil pan unscathed. I wouldn't drive without plus it does offer some aerodynamic advantages and keeps your engine bay clean.


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

KarstGeo said:


> On my Sportwagen that same-quality full-length plastic pan saved my oil pan from a cast iron water main cover. Broke the belly pan, oil pan unscathed. I wouldn't drive without plus it does offer some aerodynamic advantages and keeps your engine bay clean.


You ASSUME it saved it. The belly pan may have broke, but that doesn't mean the cast iron cover would have hit the oil pan without it. That plastic would do absolutely nothing. It may protect leaves and twigs, but that's about it.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

speed51133! said:


> You ASSUME it saved it. The belly pan may have broke, but that doesn't mean the cast iron cover would have hit the oil pan without it. That plastic would do absolutely nothing. It may protect leaves and twigs, but that's about it.


The crack was right where the pan was, it was pretty obvious but sure, I can't ever know. I'll take what I can get for what, 5 min of removing fasteners 1-2x a year?


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

I am not saying you should ditch it. Just saying it does nothing to save your oil pan. It is all about aero dynamics


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