# Let's talk positive crankcase ventilation/catch can



## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

We all know that the purpose of the PCV is to provide a controlled escape path to gases trapped in the crankcase. These gases made their way past the pistons rings into the crankcase in a process called blow-by (normal in internal combustions engines and accentuated in forced induction). For environmental reasons, most OEM unit including the one in the 1.8t, use a recirculating system. The gases go through a plastic PCV valve and then recirculate the blow-by gases through the intake pipe. This type of system operates pretty well except for two things:

1) The OEM plastic valve is a piece of crap and leak without exception
2) While letting the crankcase gas escape through the intake, a substantial amount of oil also escapes and coats all your pipes, creating a big mess.

The solution for most, is to incorporate a catch can, to collect all that messy oil/water circulating in the intake track. Most at that point also choose to vent to the atmosphere but it's possible to incorporate a catch can to a recirculating PCV system. Personally, I like recirculation because it works as well as a venting system, is friendly to the environment and not stinky. However, that still does not solve the problem 1, the stupid leaking valve.

My solution was to replace the plastic valve with a much more solid metal pcv valve (a TT member on another forum and fellow autocrosser gave me the idea of using a WRX valve, thanks Audiboy!).

I also added a catch system the madmax way (simple, cheap and effective).
A catch can, can become an expensive bulky affair that has no place in my all purpose engine bay. I opted to simply add an air particle filter (with clear bowl, manual drain and rated at 150 psi) to the line coming from the pressure regulator valve (hockey puck) going back to the TIP. The simple air filter is rugged and has survived the test of time on my evo, so it should be perfect for the job in the TT!


*WRX metal valve with barb fittings to make it fit the 1.8t hoses and reducer for OEM T*




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*Fine particle oil removal air filter rated at 150 psi and filtering at 0.5-1 micron, perfect for the job *




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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Hey Max, could I use a particle filter like you did and just route the exit hose back to my TIP? That would allow the release of crank pressure, stop the majority of the oil, and help the rings seat, correct?

*BTW your inbox was full so I had to post this on your thread instead of mssging you.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

Yes, you could use a particle filter to catch any oil making it's way back to the TIP. However, you still need a PCV valve to properly control/ventilate the pressure (it needs to be a one way valve).

IMO simply using a more rugged wrx metal valve and keeping the recirculation with an inline air particle filter to catch blow-by oil is the simplest yet effective way to go about it. I know you were looking into an exhaust vacuum setup but if you follow what I did you could get the same result for a fraction of the cost and still have a bullet proof setup that's easy to build and service.:beer:

BTW the mail box is empty now and can recieve messages again (not for long though)


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

madmax199 said:


> Yes, you could use a particle filter to catch any oil making it's way back to the TIP. However, you still need a PCV valve to properly control/ventilate the pressure (it needs to be a one way valve).
> 
> IMO simply using a more rugged wrx metal valve and keeping the recirculation with an inline air particle filter to catch blow-by oil is the simplest yet effective way to go about it. I know you were looking into an exhaust vacuum setup but if you follow what I did you could get the same result for a fraction of the cost and still have a bullet proof setup that's easy to build and service.:beer:
> 
> BTW the mail box is empty now and can recieve messages again (not for long though)


Couldnt I find a PCV valve (metal) and screw it into the bung in my exhaust and run my hoses?


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

warranty225cpe said:


> Couldnt I find a PCV valve (metal) and screw it into the bung in my exhaust and run my hoses?


You sure could! But why go through the trouble if you could simply do the inline particle filter on the existing recirculating system with a metal valve? It would be cool to fab and have an exhaust dump ventilation but I feel that it's one of those thing that there's no need for reinventing the wheel. If you're up for it though, I say go for it and post the results:thumbup:


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

madmax199 said:


> You sure could! But why go through the trouble if you could simply do the inline particle filter on the existing recirculating system with a metal valve? It would be cool to fab and have an exhaust dump ventilation but I feel that it's one of those thing that there's no need for reinventing the wheel. If you're up for it though, I say go for it and post the results:thumbup:


because having one less thing in the engine bay sounds like a great idea.


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## SteveCJr (Aug 3, 2008)

So this basically does the job of a catch can in a fraction of the space? I've always wanted to get a catch can, but I don't like the idea of having some bulky metal can sitting in my engine bay. Space is limited as is.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

SteveCJr said:


> So this basically does the job of a catch can in a fraction of the space? I've always wanted to get a catch can, but I don't like the idea of having some bulky metal can sitting in my engine bay. Space is limited as is.


Yes Steven, it's like a mini catch can that does the same job while keeping OEM recirculation ( no stinky engine bay and cabin when vents are pulling air from outside. I had the same concern you have, I didn't want a bulky piece of metal free loading in my engine bay ( doing it on a budget was just a plus )!


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## DurTTy (Aug 14, 2007)

SteveCJr said:


> So this basically does the job of a catch can in a fraction of the space? I've always wanted to get a catch can, but I don't like the idea of having some bulky metal can sitting in my engine bay. Space is limited as is.


cincyTT has done something similar to this, i cant remember the thread now tho :screwy:

nice write up for an alternative :thumbup:

i simply run this on my setup


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## SteveCJr (Aug 3, 2008)

Do you need to empty it often?


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## ILLA NOIZ (Jul 2, 2007)

Can you post links for the parts? 
-Thanks


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

SteveCJr said:


> Do you need to empty it often?


Not really, I haven't emptied it out since it was installed a couple of months ago. There is only a few tea spoon of oil in it right now but that more than enough to create a big mess in the piping, plus I'm not a fan of having oil, or anything for that matter, making its way towards my turbo blades spinning at gazillion rpm.

Oh btw intercoolers are big natural catch cans as they collect a lot of unwanted oil overtime and that oil usually has no way to make its way out. If anyone install an oil catch device, it would be smart to empty out the intercooler's natural oil storage:beer:


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

ILLA NOIZ said:


> Can you post links for the parts?
> -Thanks


Sure buddy, I will gather the part numbers and post them later!


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## beetlevdubn (Apr 25, 2005)

One other option to this, is to get the 034Motorsports Replacement hose kit, that replaces all of the problematic breather hoses underneath the intake manifold, including the elbow into the oil filter housing (which usually splits when removing it), with heavy duty Silicon hoses. This totally elliminates the plastic hoses, removes about 3 different joints that are prone to leak, and also for an additional $12, you can get a billet PCV valve that has a ball/spring type check valve, instead of the crappy oem diaphragm.

Best part, it keeps it all OEM looking, fixes the oem problems, and avoids a ton of extra pieces.

It runs about $115 + shipping, which isn't horrible. You need to specify 225 vs 180, as they have different hoses, and the 225 is $2 more. I just ordered mine this week.

Here is a pic (it shows the oem PCV):


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

beetlevdubn said:


> One other option to this, is to get the 034Motorsports Replacement hose kit, that replaces all of the problematic breather hoses underneath the intake manifold, including the elbow into the oil filter housing (which usually splits when removing it), with heavy duty Silicon hoses. This totally elliminates the plastic hoses, removes about 3 different joints that are prone to leak, and also for an additional $12, you can get a billet PCV valve that has a ball/spring type check valve, instead of the crappy oem diaphragm.
> 
> Best part, it keeps it all OEM looking, fixes the oem problems, and avoids a ton of extra pieces.
> 
> ...


This will replace all the problematic OEM hoses that crack with age and causes all sorts of leaks and headaches if you are not the DIY type that'll replace them all one by one with silicone for a fraction of the cost :thumbup:!
The only thing this will not cure though, is the blowby oil that's circulating in the system that needs to be catched somehow :beer:


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## beetlevdubn (Apr 25, 2005)

madmax199 said:


> This will replace all the problematic OEM hoses that crack with age and causes all sorts of leaks and headaches if you are not the DIY type that'll replace them all one by one with silicone for a fraction of the cost :thumbup:!
> The only thing this will not cure though, is the blowby oil that's circulating in the system that needs to be catched somehow :beer:


I agree. I have tried the catch can route, on a couple different vehicles, and the maintenance of emptying out the can, messing with the smell, and extra crap in the engine compartment always made me regret the decision to do it.

Your setup seems to elliminate the smell though, which would be my worst complaint of all that I listed. So, maybe run your setup along with the 034 setup if you want to pull the oil from the intake tract, and avoid the typical catch can smell.


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## DurTTy (Aug 14, 2007)

beetlevdubn said:


> I agree. I have tried the catch can route, on a couple different vehicles, and the maintenance of emptying out the can, messing with the smell, and extra crap in the engine compartment always made me regret the decision to do it.
> 
> Your setup seems to elliminate the smell though, which would be my worst complaint of all that I listed. So, maybe run your setup along with the 034 setup if you want to pull the oil from the intake tract, and avoid the typical catch can smell.


i dont understand what kind of smells you getting if you have a sealed catch can hooked up inline with the TT's stock crankcase ventilation system 

running it inline has no impact on the smell as any excess vapor that doesnt collect in the catch can goes straight to the TIP with or without the particle filter madmaxx used. which is the same as the OEM system.. all you doing is limiting the amount of blow by you are recirculating by adding greater capacity(in volume) or in maxx's case filtration. 

if you have a ventilated catch can (breather filter like the garrett) i can see how that may impact the mentioned(although i noticed no difference)

also i was running a 0.5L ebay can with one hose in and the other hose dupming to the ground and i still noticed no smells.


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## beetlevdubn (Apr 25, 2005)

DurTTy said:


> i dont understand what kind of smells you getting if you have a sealed catch can hooked up inline with the TT's stock crankcase ventilation system
> 
> running it inline has no impact on the smell as any excess vapor that doesnt collect in the catch can goes straight to the TIP with or without the particle filter madmaxx used. which is the same as the OEM system.. all you doing is limiting the amount of blow by you are recirculating by adding greater capacity(in volume) or in maxx's case filtration.
> 
> ...


Most I have seen are VTA (Vent to Atmosphere), as the recirculating variety end up usually with the same amount of oil vapor in your inlet hoses/intercooler, etc. I had a VTA version in my Mk5, and I could smell it coming through the cabin filter, when idling. Not horrible, but I can't stand any smell of burning oil... even slight. I've had them on other vehicles as well, and had the same result. I've never run a recirculating catch can, as I always figured it didn't really elliminate the oil vapors in the air plumbing, but I may have been misinformed.


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## DurTTy (Aug 14, 2007)

beetlevdubn said:


> Most I have seen are VTA (Vent to Atmosphere), as the recirculating variety end up usually with the same amount of oil vapor in your inlet hoses/intercooler, etc. I had a VTA version in my Mk5, and I could smell it coming through the cabin filter, when idling. Not horrible, but I can't stand any smell of burning oil... even slight. I've had them on other vehicles as well, and had the same result. I've never run a recirculating catch can, as I always figured it didn't really elliminate the oil vapors in the air plumbing, but I may have been misinformed.


the vented cans are much better as they allow vapor out and the heavier particles collect inside the excess oil accumulator. 

whether the "catch can" is vent or recirculating, unless it has internal baffles to slow and trap the blow by, it wont do much unless you add something inside it in order to collect the fluids (ie: steel wool as the most common)

_this may sound [email protected], but did you ever consider the cabin filter as the culprit? i usually start getting funky smells, not necessarily attributed to oil smell, when the cabin filter is near its change interval -- just a thought._


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## alby7781 (Jun 24, 2010)

beetlevdubn i cant seem to find the 225 pcv replacement hose kit on the 034 motorsports website can you post a link?


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## beetlevdubn (Apr 25, 2005)

Sure thing... what they told me, was to order the standard 1.8T kit, and in the notes, make sure to ask for the hose 225 hose that is specific to our cars. Here is the link:

http://www.034motorsport.com/engine...e-valve-cover-audi-tt225-18t-amu-p-21869.html

I just got mine from them yesterday, and it looks great!


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## beetlevdubn (Apr 25, 2005)

I just noticed that you have an BEA motor, so it looks like the AMU one is different. I would call 034 and see what they have for your engine.


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## alby7781 (Jun 24, 2010)

yea your rite damn! i cannot find for the life of me an after market pcv hose kit for my bea engine and our cars amu or bea have pcv problems, so why havent they main streamed those parts. if anyone has any knowledge of any aftermarket pcv replacement kits for my bea for the love of god send me the link. :banghead: thank you. oh and im emailing them with little hope.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

I'd like to clear the air on catch cans, the compressor filter idea was tried years ago, sure you get some residue but it is basically useless. Vented cans (rather than TIP-routed cans) have no vacuum pulling the blow-by/crankcase ventilation through, which means they are passive and also do not do a whole lot. I have a big catch can and every oil change get a ton of yellow goop and collected moisture from draining it, enough to fill a typical water bottle. All of this crap is NOT staying in the engine or getting into the oil/cylinders, for which I am thankful. You need a TIP-connected catch can because the constant vacuum pulls all the vented crap out of the block and valve cover breathers; what I get could fill 20 of the Husky catch cans (as they used to be called) every time. Ditch the whole OEM PCV setup and install a GOOD can, don't cheap out and think the $30 Chinese POS ones will work. Another type of crankcase venting involves check valves directing the blowby straight into the exhaust pipe to be burned off, but I prefer the catch can over dumping moisture and goop into the downpipe...

Catch can FAQ

The can bolted to the battery box:









Drainage (the bottle was the first drain, the drain pan is a full drain after ~5k, I seem to get quite a bit more now than I did when I originally installed the can):


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

l88m22vette said:


> I'd like to clear the air on catch cans, the compressor filter idea was tried years ago, sure you get some residue but it is basically useless. Vented cans (rather than TIP-routed cans) have no vacuum pulling the blow-by/crankcase ventilation through, which means they are passive and also do not do a whole lot. I have a big catch can and every oil change get a ton of yellow goop and collected moisture from draining it, enough to fill a typical water bottle. All of this crap is NOT staying in the engine or getting into the oil/cylinders, for which I am thankful. You need a TIP-connected catch can because the constant vacuum pulls all the vented crap out of the block and valve cover breathers; what I get could fill 20 of the Husky catch cans (as they used to be called) every time. Ditch the whole OEM PCV setup and install a GOOD can, don't cheap out and think the $30 Chinese POS ones will work. Another type of crankcase venting involves check valves directing the blowby straight into the exhaust pipe to be burned off, but I prefer the catch can over dumping moisture and goop into the downpipe...
> 
> Catch can FAQ
> 
> ...



Good info :thumbup:!
What would prevent an air particle filter ( filtering at 5 micron ) to not work in recirculation, with vacuum pulling the filtered air back to the TIP just like the catch can system you posted? 

You mentioned that it has been done before but basically useless, I am curious to know why since I am getting the same water filled oil residue in mine? The only problem I can already see with my setup is having to drain more often!


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Its useless not because it doesn't work (it does since you're getting blowby), but because the filter is so small; I suppose useless is a harsh word, but I just prefer doing overly-robust/efficient mods since that way its done once and for all. The constant emptying would make me want to connect a collection can to your setup, and with that you might as well skip the middleman and just get a straight can. That said, I meant no offense, and you've got suspension covered like I never have :thumbup:


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

l88m22vette said:


> Its useless not because it doesn't work (it does since you're getting blowby), but because the filter is so small; I suppose useless is a harsh word, but I just prefer doing overly-robust/efficient mods since that way its done once and for all. The constant emptying would make me want to connect a collection can to your setup, and with that you might as well skip the middleman and just get a straight can. That said, *I meant no offense*, and you've got suspension covered like I never have :thumbup:


Seriously, I don't see how "offense could be taken" when you presented a valid constructive point that's pertinent to the topic . On top of it, the whole point of most my threads is to strike knowledgable discussions that everyone can benefit from and I'm always open to options and opinions when they are sound and make sense. Your opinion is valued and always welcomed!

I really can understand your point of view on the catching/filtering device, the metal can is more bullet proof and reqire less frequent draining. I view it in the sense that the air particle I use, is a lot more compact ( catch cans can really be bulky and complicated in their routing IMO ) and rugged enough (rated at 150 psi) for the job. Personally I don't have a problem pressing the drain valve conveniently placed at the bottom of the filter every two weeks to drain it, but it may not be for everyone :thumbup:.


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## DurTTy (Aug 14, 2007)

this may sound contradiciting but,  escaping blow by gasses generate positive pressure. this is the basic idea of how they "blow by" the rings

this means means the gasses are "pushing" out. a ventilated oil accumilator will let the lighter vapours/gasses escape through the filter, meanwhile trapping the heavier particles inside (use steel wool if your can does not have internal baffles). You have to remember that positive pressure will always follow the path of least resistance -- ie the vent  think of how water flows or how a fire can be controlled by shutting doors closed or smoking a cigarette with all the windows clsoed (pressureized cabin) and opening a window will draw all the smoke out through that one opening - all similar concepts in terms of flow for positive pressure. 

This is part of the reason why a vented can will have a longer itnerval between emptying (although it is recommended you empty the excess oil accumilator every oil change) and it is part of the reason why it may appear to some why it is not as effective. 

Consider full racing setups and their excess oil ventilation systems and excess oil accumilator setups, you will find that a vented system is far more common than any other. 

if you get a lot of blow by accumlitaing in your can on a very regular, then you may want to consider a few things :
1.) change the type of oil you use. lower grade oils will gereate more moisture
2.) run compression test, your rings may be letting excess amounts of blow by.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

Good info as usual DurTTy :thumbup:!


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

I'm looking into this right now. My PCV is broken in half jsut about and I'm going to replace it with a stronger hose. I've been wanting to add a catch can in it's place, but then I stumbled on all of the compressor oil filters everyone has been using in place of a catch can. This thread raises a couple of questions for me:

1. Madmaxx and vette are arguing about which is better to catch the unwanted oil and vapors from re-entering the engine, but is there any proof or data showing how much more the catch can removes from the system over the inline filter solution? (or vice versa)

2. If I do the SAI, EVAP, and PCV delete while adding a catch can, can't I still pass Cali emissions?

3. You can make your own can, buy a cheap one from ebay, or buy a nice catch can. As far as quality and effectiveness go in regards to price, which is the best option?


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Well, when done properly both will work as intended. My goal with the air particle filter was to:

1) keep it compact and simple when our engine is very crowded as it is.

2) keep recirculation while adding a good filtering media 

3) keep it relatively cheap to build and maintain

4) Improve the OEM PCV valve that fails with age with a metal units that can hold some serious pressure without cracking.

Eric (vette) approach is not wrong or right but a different way of tackling the problem. That same particle filter is still in my car and doing its job flawlessly, so it is also a proven viable option. The route you decide to take with your car should be based on the intended use and budget. To some people, a catch can is appealing because it adds some bling to their bay and has some functionality. To others, it may mean packaging complication that comes with healthy price tag.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> 2. If I do the SAI, EVAP, and PCV delete while adding a catch can, can't I still pass Cali emissions?


Emission deletes should not be in your vocabulary if you live in Cali. Especially when some of them like evap (even resistored) will leave a code without a software write-out.


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

reflected for the software write out....


I'm running two catch cans, as I have found that one is not enough. not only is their oil vapor, but a lot of water vapor that gets generated. and in the winter, you could empty your catch cans on a weekly basis. I run a saikou michi can emptying into a custom (home made) can, both getting their vacuum source form the intake. The Saikou can is able to catch a lot of oil, while my custom can catches almost nothing but water. it's kinda amazing.


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

DurTTy said:


> this may sound contradiciting but,  escaping blow by gasses generate positive pressure. this is the basic idea of how they "blow by" the rings
> 
> this means means the gasses are "pushing" out. a ventilated oil accumilator will let the lighter vapours/gasses escape through the filter, meanwhile trapping the heavier particles inside (use steel wool if your can does not have internal baffles). You have to remember that positive pressure will always follow the path of least resistance -- ie the vent  think of how water flows or how a fire can be controlled by shutting doors closed or smoking a cigarette with all the windows clsoed (pressureized cabin) and opening a window will draw all the smoke out through that one opening - all similar concepts in terms of flow for positive pressure.
> 
> ...


racers set up with open cans because they don't HAVE to return it to the car as OEM cars must. It adds more weight and complication, and why do it if you don't have to. 
One thing to consider, is that when you don't have a vacuum source, the air/oil/water vapor will come out more slowly and sits in the piping longer...therefore congealing in the piping more than if there's a airflow (vacuum source). This is why i went back to a vacuum source than to open atmosphere. The piping was getting a ton of gunk in them. And I actually think you statement of changing intervals is the exact opposite. I found that with a vacuum source, the moisture is pulled out the can more and therefore takes longer to need to be changed than an atmosphere can. Eitherway, when I vented to the atmosphere, or intake, i would always have to empty way more frequently than changing my oil. and I used full synth 0w-30


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Krissrock said:


> racers set up with open cans because they don't HAVE to return it to the car as OEM cars must. It adds more weight and complication, and why do it if you don't have to.
> One thing to consider, is that when you don't have a vacuum source, the air/oil/water vapor will come out more slowly and sits in the piping longer...therefore congealing in the piping more than if there's a airflow (vacuum source). This is why i went back to a vacuum source than to open atmosphere. The piping was getting a ton of gunk in them. And I actually think you statement of changing intervals is the exact opposite. I found that with a vacuum source, the moisture is pulled out the can more and therefore takes longer to need to be changed than an atmosphere can. Eitherway, when I vented to the atmosphere, or intake, i would always have to empty way more frequently than changing my oil. and I used full synth 0w-30


I'm hoping this route will prove most effective. I'm going to run my can back into my TIP. Hopefully the added vac will be of benefit. I COULD always run the exit of my can to my exhaust.. That way I have vac and zero crap getting back through the intake. I already have the bung welded into my exhaust. I jus need to find a metal check valve that doesn't take a ton of vac to open the valve.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

warranty225cpe said:


> I just need to find a metal check valve that will hold up to the temps.


FIFY. FYI, the Moroso valves don't. 










They'd last a month or two then blow out when I used to run them. :thumbdown:


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

20v master said:


> FIFY. FYI, the Moroso valves don't.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yeah, that's the one I have. Who makes an all metal valve ?

And at what point did you realize the failure?


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

make sure you're getting vac from that line first...remember I had that already, and it wasn't getting enough vac to do anything, or the check valves were ****.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

I had good vac from that line, you could feel it at idle with your hand. You realize the valve fails when you start smoking under boost. If you were lucky, it failed while boosting and gave a nice loud scare. :laugh:


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

I got mine fron Summit. I'm sure it's the same. Plastic internals. Does anyone make an all metal valve?


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Well, when done properly both will work as intended. My goal with the air particle filter was to:
> 
> 1) keep it compact and simple when our engine is very crowded as it is.
> 
> ...


 Thanks Marcus. 


Out of curiosity, how often do you change the particle filter? Can you just empty it and reuse it?


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

warranty225cpe said:


> I got mine fron Summit. I'm sure it's the same. Plastic internals. Does anyone make an all metal valve?


 for my valve going to the brake booster, i just took a browse through all the various ones at pep boys. There's a section where they keep all the pcv valves togther (usually near the gas caps and radiator hoses). just see what looks good. I picked one up that i think is from a ford. it's metal, and fits perfectly into the silicon line... 
i'm still not quite sure what will work well with the exhaust set up.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> Thanks Marcus.
> 
> 
> Out of curiosity, how often do you change the particle filter? Can you just empty it and reuse it?


 That filter in the original post is at least 5 years old. It was in one of my evos, then inherited by the TT and still going strong. Conveniently, there is a drain valve at the bottom... you simply place a platic cup under it and push the valve while the car is running to empty it out. The process takes literally 30 seconds and have spoiled me to the point of never using a catch can in an engine with space restrictions again. 

*Just snapped a cell pic so you could see the drain valve and how simple and convenient the setup is*


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

I might run one of those after the catch can. That way I can see/catch what the can doesn't. Would also act as an overflow For the can.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Krissrock said:


> for my valve going to the brake booster, i just took a browse through all the various ones at pep boys. There's a section where they keep all the pcv valves togther (usually near the gas caps and radiator hoses). just see what looks good. I picked one up that i think is from a ford. it's metal, and fits perfectly into the silicon line...
> i'm still not quite sure what will work well with the exhaust set up.


 The valve that I have posted in the original post is perfect for that job also. All metal and rated at some crazy psi, just add the appropriate barb ends to make it fit anywhere if you go with the Fram one. I have two of the on my brake booster line (I added a second booster vacuum source from the TIP so I have brake assist when I'm left foot braking an still on the throttle to keep the turbo spooled).


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

I just set mine up today. I tested it to see if it will work. The car started and idled without issue, so I opened the bottom of the particle filter and there was no pressure coming out. I thought I was putting in the filter the correct way.. I have flow going from the hockey puck to the TIP. Did I do something wrong?


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> I just set mine up today. I tested it to see if it will work. The car started and idled without issue, so I opened the bottom of the particle filter and there was no pressure coming out. I thought I was putting in the filter the correct way.. I have flow going from the hockey puck to the TIP. Did I do something wrong?


You're good to go Chuck! The OEM valve is doing its job (allowing crankcase pressure release *in a controlled manner*. At idle, you're in vacuum and there shouldn't be any pressure bleed by a working valve. The ventilation should happen when you're in boost. :beer:


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

I'll have to post up some pics of the system that I had to design to control the oil vapors on my old Camaro. Small Block Chevies have huge problems with sucking oil out of the engine when used for Autocross. Main problem iss that the PCV is vented from the valve covers. 

Baffle design in the valve covers on the SBC are critical. The factory used a layered baffle design that is very effective for normal street use. Can't cut it with high G's and rev's associated with Autocross and Track Days though. Valve cover just gets flooded with oil mist, especially when hydraulic tappets are used.

Most aftermarket valve covers have s**t oil baffling. Simple punched louvers which do nothing to prevent oil mist from being sucked out. Things like this are useless :










My ultimate solution was to run some OEM GM HP *tall* valve covers with the factory baffle. Then I ran a Dodge valve cover breather ( enclosed design with internal stepped baffles and vent tube ) inserted into the VC. Vent line then went into a modified CSR radiator catch tank ( 1.5 liters. 3" diameter about 10" long). An additional vent line was welded into the side of the tank about 4" below top of tank. and VC vent hose connected to that. GM PCV valve was inserted into top of catch tank and fed to vacuum inlet on Carb. 

ZERO...absolutely ZERO oil ever got sucked into the Intake system using this method. Even pulling 1.5g's at 7,200 rpm. 

Dodge baffled VC breather 










CSR tank ( Unmodified )



















BTW...this wasn't cheap by any means. I must have spent $200 designing this setup. But it was worth it in the long run. I'll post up some pictures when I can get over to my Buddies. I sold him the car about 6 years ago.


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## jedge1.8t (Jan 27, 2012)

I have a jegs venturi valve and stem angled right after my post cat sensor bung, heater hose with fiberglass wrap on the turbo side, cost me a little over $40 bucks, no problems... at all 

constant vacuum, no maintenance. killing dolphins though.


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