# Megasquirt2 No Spark



## volkstechnj (Apr 1, 2006)

I have a thread on the Megasquirt MSextra Forums http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=131&t=52914

I basically have NO SPARK and need help figureing it out. 

Today I emailed Matt @ DIYAtuotune and Paul Keirnan and I'm sure they will help me get this figured out but it doesn't hurt to cover the bases.
What you will read below is exactly what I posted of the MS Forum and sent to Matt and David but edited for the forums.

I am going to attempt to explain everything that I’ve have done so here it goes.

Vehicle: 1990 Volkswagen GTI 2.0l 16v with all engine factory internals. 

Intake: Factory European 50mm intake manifold

Exhaust: Techtonics

Fueling:

Pumps > I used the factory fuel pumps (in in-tank one external), factory filter and factory lines to the engine bay.

Fuel Supply Line and Hose > I ran a new fuel hose from the black stock pressure hard line to the Fuel Rail










Fuel Rail > BBM Billet 16V Fuel Rail 










Fuel Pressure Regualtor (FPR)> I am using a stock 3.5 Bar from a Corrado G60 (Digifant Style) it has one vacuum (vac) line connected to the intake manifold vac source.










Fuel Return Line and Hose> I used a new fuel hose run to the factory blue fuel return line from the FPR.

Injector Seats> I removed the factory CIS fuel injector seats to install factory injector seat again from a Corrado G60 (Digifant).

Fuel Injectors> The fuel injectors are factory Volkswagen AEB 1.8T rated at 220cc’s per minute with the 3.5bar FPR. They are wired as follows: 12volt power to injector pin 1 /2 comes from factory wiring connector black/white wire @ VW pin T6a/1 which is switched 12volts (even when cranking) this wire comes from fuse S15 on the fuse panel and only controls the injector 12 volt feed. Injectors #1 and #3 are connected to injector pin 2/2 to green wire @ MS pin 32/37 and 33/37 together not separately, while injectors #2 and #4 are connected to injector pin 2/2 blue wire @ MS 34/37 and 35/37.



















Fuel Pump Relay> I am also using the vehicles factory wiring, the fuel pump relay signal wire violet @ MS pin 37/37 is connected to the factory harness via factory connector red/yellow wire @ VW pin T6a/4 that triggers the factory relay. 




























Sensors:

Intake Air Temp Sensor (IAT) > used a GM Open Element IAT Sensor with Pigtail (http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/gm-open-element-iat-sensor-with-pigtail-p-62.html) it has 2 wires one is the ground which is connected to black/white wire @ MS pin 7/37 and one for signal connected to orange wire @ MS pin 20/37. I should note that the harness pin 7/37 is a black and white wire which is different than the rest of the black ground wires on the MS ground bus. 



















Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) > used a VW Passat Automatic (note not using the idle or wide open throttle (WOT) switches only the potentiometer. It has 3 wires, TPS pin 1/3 goes to grey wire @ MS pin 26/37 my 5 volt reference, TPS pin 2/3 goes to black/white wire @ MS 7/37, and pin 3/3 goes to blue wire @ MS pin 22/37




























Oxygen Sensor (O2) > used the factory provided O2 for now however a wide band is to be used in the future. It has 3 wires 2 are white for the heater and 1 is black for the signal. One white wire is chassis grounded and one is connected to the factory O2 heater power source via factory connector red/white wire @ VW pinT6a/3. This source uses the same output from the fuel pump relay that powers the pump so I added a 5amp fuse inline. The signal is connected to the pink wire @ MS pin 23/37 




























Crank Position Sensor / Cam Position Sensor (CMP) > used the factory Distributor it has a 3 wires. Hall pin 1/3 is connected to MS shielded wire MS pins 1/37 and 2/37, Hall pin 2/3 is connected to white shielded wire @ MS pin 24/37, and Hall pin 3/3 is connected to grey wire @MS pin 26/37 my 5volt reference. 




























Coolant Temp Sensor (ECT or CTS) > used the factory CTS, it has 2 wires pin 1/2 is connected to black/white wire @ MS pin 7/37 and pin 2/2 is connected to yellow wire @ MS pin 21/37. 




























Ignition:

Coil > I have several coils currently I am using a typical 12 volt internal ballast Bosch coil. It receives its 12 volt voltage directly from the ignition switch (edited 1/30/2014) The coil negative is triggered by the brown [email protected] MS pin 36/37. I have not connected it to the tachometer yet but it will be connected from the negative side of the coil to the factory connector wire green @ VW pin T6b/2 in the future. 




























Other Wiring and notes:

I used all the factory connectors either saved from the factory Fuel Injection Harness or from parts leftover from other projects. At this time I am not using an idle valve or Stepper IAC so all that wiring has been capped and tucked for other future use if needed this would include the following wires from MS pins 3/37, 4/37, 5/37, 6/37, 31/37. The MS has no wires on MS pins 8/37, 9/37, 10/37, 11/37, 12/37, 13/37 or 14/37





































All of my grounds black wires @ MS pins 15/37, 16/37, 17/37, 18/37 and 19/37 are grounded at the factory ground location on the cylinder head, which also has a large gauge wire run down to the factory manual transmission ground then to the body and finally the battery.



















The red [email protected] MS pin9/37 receives power from the factory connector black wire @ VW pin T6a/5 which was the factory ECU switched power from fuse S15. I added a 3amp in this circuit.



















Now for the actual MegaSquirt Motherboard:

When I received this project some of the MB was assembled. I started at the beginning to check what was installed and what still needed to be installed. I’m not going to list each step or what was already installed but I will detail some of it. For starters this is the assembly manual I used http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/V3assemble.htm at the end of this doc will be my entire manual and my check off diagram is below. The dots indicate installed while the x indicates not installed except for D1 and D2 which are jumpers










Power Supply & Testing:

Steps #1 thru #20 completed and verified proper components installed
Step #22 was skipped because an IAC is NOT being used
Step #23 completed and tested OK

Serial Communications Constructing & Testing

Steps #24 to #26 completed and tested OK

Clock Circuit Construction & Testing

Steps #27 thru #41 completed and tested ok with FIRMWARE 3.3.1 from (http://www.diyautotune.com/softwarelinks.htm)
Input Section Construction & Testing
Steps #42 thru #29 completed and verified proper components installed
Step #50a (HALL INPUT CIRCUIT) completed, D1 and D2 are jumped
Step #51 completed
Step #52 (NOTE: there was some trial on this step see http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/ignition.html#tachint as reference) completed for the VR sensor as follows: 
V3.0 board - VR Input with pullup for hall sensors, LS2/58X, optical sensors or points
a) Solder a link between VRIN and TACHSELECT
b) Solder a wire between VrOUT and TSEL
c) Install a 1k resistor (brown-black-green-gold) in the proto area. Connect one end to the 5V hole and join the other end to VRIN with a jumper wire. 
d) With a small screwdriver, turn the pots, R52 and R56, about 12 turns anticlockwise (sometimes you may feel a "click" when the end position is reached, they can't be damaged by turning too far.) and then turn R56 back about 6 turns clockwise. 



















Step #53 completed
Step #54 completed using 2.49K resistor
Step #55 completed and tested OK

Output Section Constructing & Testing

Step #56 thru #62 completed. (NOTE: I had to remove Q2 and flip it around because it was previously installed backwards)
Step #63/65 completed using BIP373 with NO IGBT PULL-UP CIRCUIT or STIM MODS
Step #66 thru 69 completed (NOTE Q10 and Q13 had to be removed and installed into their correct locations later because they were installed where Q9 and Q12 had to go) and I got a 61k resistance reading between the tab and heat sync)
Step #70 thru #74 completed
Step #75 completed (NOTE: used R39, I did not use a jumper)
Step #76 completed using IRFZ34GPBF-ND which do not require insulating
Step # 77 thru 80 completed



















Installation:

The ECU is mounted in the vehicle under the dash on the center tunnel for easy access. The wrapped harness is run through the fire wall into the rain tray area (high of course) with rubber grommets then trough the rain tray with grommets and connected as explained earlier. 






















Testing:

I have verified the following:
The MS has power and ground
The IAT is set and works in TunerStudio
The TPS is set and works in TunerStudio
The fuel pump works
The fuel injectors’ work
The coil works on the bench and receives signal from MS but have almost no spark from the primary wire.
The CMP shows crank signal (RPM) in Tuner studio.
The ECT or CTS shows in TunerStudio however I have not set it.

Tuning:

I have done very little in the way of changes to the MSQ. 

So now what I am trying to do is get spark so I can start it and continue!

This link is to this write up but packaged with my actual build instructions with my hand notes and more pictures it takes a little to load up its also broken into 3 peices
http://toughill.name/MSPICS/What I did.pdf


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## volkstechnj (Apr 1, 2006)

So I'm gonna try this:

I'm going to wire the coil positive as it was stock, remove R43 and install an IGBT pullup like below.


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## volkstechnj (Apr 1, 2006)

Ok didn't install the pull up instead I did the following changes:

I removed the R43 and installed a jumper
I added a 1/4watt 330 ohm Res between JS10 and IGBTIN
I wired the coil (+) back the its factory wire from the ignition switch

The result is the same NO SPARK


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Is the board setup for direct coil drive or are you using the ICM? What are the coil settings in MS. And is the Hall sender wired thru the stock wiring or do you have the MS harness going to it. For a simple no spark question, you really posted way too much.


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## volkstechnj (Apr 1, 2006)

Update:

Ok tossed the led test light across the shop, used a old school test light it doesn't flash it dims, then bright the dim etc

So I have a board problem somewhere!

I posted everything because on the other forum they wanted to know certain things, by posting the entire process it answered some questions and maybe someone could pick out any problems or make a sugestion.

The board is setup for direct coil drive.

the hall sender is wired using the MS harness

Too much information shouldn't be a problem. If you read the post the above questions should have been obvious just like this no spark problem is probably obvious I'm just missing it.

Thank You for commenting though, any ideas? I'm not trying to be rude I'm just tired and frustrated!


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Does the board checkout on a stim? Do you see an rpm signal in MS?

If MS is not seeing and rpm signal, that would be input(hall sender), if you have rpm, then it would be an output issue.


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## volkstechnj (Apr 1, 2006)

Got input, no output


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

12V to the coil and MS hooked to the coil (-)? What settings do you have in MS?


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## volkstechnj (Apr 1, 2006)

I GOT SPARK!!! :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

It started! 

So I'm going to go get the good mica insulators that go through the legs, and replacing all the screws with nylon ones, forget what I was sent.

Now to finish up some other little things so I can start tuning. I'm sure I'll have a question or two. I'm gonna start with the chevy 305 setup as a base with a few changes (someone suggested that) unless anyone has other ideas.

Where can I start a build thread?

Thank you everyone.

BTW it runs using the JS10 to IGBTIN with the 330ohm resistor, without the 330 ohm resistor and if the 330 ohm resistor is between the top of R26 and IGNTIN, and 5v to the 330 ohm resistor to IGBTIN all 4 work the same with a few software changes and the high low inverting. I now understand why when looking how the circuit works along with the board circuit map (blue print).


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