# the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated regulary



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007*

*DUE TO THE LENGTH AND COMPLEXITY OF THIS THREAD I HAVE CREATED A INDEX OF THE PAGE NUMBERS WHERE YOU CAN FIND THINGS EASILY*
*INDEX*
Introduction to the Project - page 1
Ready Engine to be Pulled - page 1
Engine Pulled from car - page 1
Disassembly of Transmission - page 2
Motor Mount Install - page 2
Timing Chain Diassembly - page 2
Head Cleanip - page 3
Head Spacer and Head Bolt Install - page 3
Timing Chain Install - page 3
Engine and Parts Cleanup - page 4
Turbo Parts Layout - page 4/5
MAF Install - page 5
Thermostat Housing Fixup - page 5
Turbo Disassembley for Ceramic Coating - page 5
Turbo Reassembly - page 6
Oil pan install - page 6
Clutch & Flywheel Install - page 6
Turbo Parts installed to Engine - pag 6
Installation of Waterpump - page 6
Install Transmission - page 6
Gap Spark Plugs - page 6
Reinstall Engine page 6
Install Axles - page 9
Install cooling system - page 9
Remove Stock Oil Cooler - page 9
Install Oil Cooler Plate/Fitings - page 10
install frost plug - page 10
Manifold Fitting - page 10
Fuel Rail Modification - page 10
Turbo Oil Fittings - page 11
Vaccum and Wiring - page 11
Injectors, Fuel Rail, ECU Install - page 11
Phelonic Spacer, Manifold - page 11
Rad & A/C install - page 11
Front end back on - page 11
Rolling on wheels - page 12/13
Intercooler Install - page 12/13
Electronic Boost Controller Install - page 14
Intercooler Shots - page 14
Oil Cooler installed - page 14
Catch Can - page 14
Dump Vaccum Plumbing - page 15
TroubleShooting a few issues at idle - Page 16
Waxing and Polishing - Page 18
Completed Shots - Page 18
*will update as more is added
**these are only the major things covered on each page
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
*Introduction*
The car is about to go into hiding again for the winter but come spring '08 papa smurf is gonna have a few little additions.
Huge thanks to clay again for his services, i am forever in debt. I'll bring ya some more goose next time i see you.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.

*The goal: 300whp Smurf by April 1, 2008 *
*The plans:*
-T3/T4 Turbo
-Kinetic Motorsport VR6 Manifold
-TiAL 38mm Wastegate
-3" Downpipe
-Braided Oil Lines and Oil Pan with fittings
-Kinetic Motorsport Silicone Hoses and Stainless Steel Clamps
-9.0:1 Stainless Steel Head Spacer 
-42# Bosch Fuel Injectors
-C2 Motorsports 42# Software
-Walbro inline fuel pump
-22"x10"x2.3" Garret Intercooler painted with high temp black paint for stealth look and heat disapation
-custom intercooler piping by TuneDUB
-Peloquin LSD
-longer 5th gear (.717 TDi 5th) which will allow for better mileage on the highway as well as increased top speed
-lightend flywheel
-ACT VR1-HDMM High HP clutch & heavy duty pressure plate
-keeping 2.5" exhaust and installing a boost actuated dump that can be turned on and off
-full timing chain replacement
-rear main seal replacement
-MMP Phelonic Spacer
-ARP headstuds
-HGP/HPA Short Runner Intake manifold (uber rare)
-stage 1 BFI motor mounts
-stage 1 BFI tranny mount
-Audi TT 12.3" brakes with cross drilled and slotted Brembo rotos and high performance pads w/ braided lines
- deleting secondary air injection
- Greddy Profec B Spec II electronic Boost controller
- boost & EGT gauges 
-upgraded mk4 waterpump with metal impellers
-ceramic coating turbo & exhaust manifold
-mk4 fuel rail (polished)
-billet MasonTech waterpipe (crackpipe)
-new serpentine belt
-new low temp thermostat, and thermostat housing
-relayed headlights
-new ecode projector headlights
-new Hella Foglights
-upgraded external oil cooler w/ the following:
-Mocal thermostatically controlled sandwich plate with vr6 specific top cap
-BSP to -AN unions with stat o seals
-Mocal/aeroquip black/titanium colored hose ends
-Stainless Steel socketless hoses and fittings
-Mocal 235 matrix 16 row cooler.
I'm going to be doing most of the work myself, and will be bribing others with beer, pizza, and sexual favors for help.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
*ALREADY DONE TO THE CAR:*
- KW Coilovers
- Neuspeed Front and Rear Swaybars
- OMP Upper Front Strut Brace
- 11.3" Brakes with PBR Metalmaster Pads and Brembo Rotors
- 8.5" Fronts and 9" Rears Brock B2 Rims
- Kumho 712 Tires; 205F, 215R
- 2.5" Brospeed Catback Exhaust
and some other goodies....
.
.
.
.
.
.
.

*The lucky candidate:*
























.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.

*The toys:*








































































.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Will add more as work begins and progress is made.








.
.
.
.
..
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
*THE FINISHED PRODUCT*

































_Modified by nOOb at 8:00 AM 5-12-2008_


_Modified by nOOb at 5:35 PM 5-13-2008_


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated regulary (nOOb)*

December 2nd 2007:
So today Graeme came over and gave me a hand as we began the first stages of this project. HUGE thanks for the help dude, turns out you taking apart your car once a month does come in handy when others need help haha. 
Weather outside was horrible, they were saying -20, -27 with the windchill, but inside the heated garage it was a balmy +20.
First was removing the lights and grille, then the bumper. This gave me a chance to do some measurements for how I am going to run my FMIC. I would like to keep my A/C, and surprisingly my north american bumpers. A) I do a lot of highway driving so having A/C is HUGE cause there is nothing worse than cruising at speed with the windows down not able to hear a thing. B) the NA bumpers will hopefully allow me to run a larger IC without hacking the bumper to bits and keeping the stealty look I am going for.
As you can see however with the A/C condenser the space is limited down in the front. i was hoping to run a 2 1/4" thick IC that was fairly wide and fairly tall (24"x9") to get the maximum cooling possible. There doesn't look to be a whole lot of room and the rebar may need to get hacked slightly and some extra bits welded on to get things to fit. If anyone has some ideas I would love to hear them.

















































Next came undoing the A/C condenser, let it hang like this for a little while before discharging the system:









Next up came taking apart the intake and MAF. I had a K&N filter on there before, so it was a quick thing to pull, couple of clamps for the tubing to and from the MAF and a few bolts holding the bracket on. Holy crap these cars have a lot of emissions garbage, I didn't realize how much of the stuff in this area was emissions related.









































Then using a expensive professional purging system we discharged the A/C refrigerant being sure not to let any escape as it would cause our world to warm up, and on a day as warm as it was today who would want to do that?
:rofl:








15 minutes later and the garage a little cooler we were back to work pulling all of the A/C related bits and pieces off of the front end of the car.

















Next was on to pulling the spark plugs, coilpack and throttle body.

























Then pulled the top half of the intake manifold, stuffed some paper towel in the runners to avoid dirt and dust getting into the engine.









From there we moved on to pulling the exhaust manifold and headers. I just want to go on the record for saying whoever decided to run 12mm bolts on the header section that attaches to the cat and only use 3 so that you have 2 on the bottom and 1 on the top should be shot. It is so bloody hard to get that top bolt. Used the butane torch to heat one up and the other two was brute strength.

























The pile of parts on the garage floor slowly began to grow.









At this point we drained the engine oil, coolant (rad, block, lines) and the power steering.









Once this was done we pulled the radiator and gained a lot more room to work.









I also discovered at this time it seems I have had a small but massive coolant leak somewhere around the thermostat housing. This is weird because i did replace the Tstat housing 2 summers ago. I cant exactly tell where the leak is coming from. There is just a lot of dried up G12 everywhere. I can't tell whether the seal with the block was crap, it was leaking from the yellow sensor, or between the two halfs of the housing itself. Looks like someone with ebola threw up on my block however.

































The elusive VR6 "crack pipe" for those that have never seen it before and wonder what it actually is.









Now we pulled the [email protected] secondary "CEL" air injection pump that seems to go on every other Mk3 built. While removing we cracked the brittle hosing as you can see in the pics. Anyone have an extra hose I can have?

























We now began work on the mystery piece. We have no idea what this actually does, if someone knows please tell me, it has coolant going in and out of it and is located as you can see on the drivers side of the engine just behind the coilpack. It has the round silver top you can see in this picture and looks like a canister of some kind.









From this point we began moving all kinds of lines from the area located around the battery. Shifter linkage, hydraulic clutch lines, battery tray that houses my mini MMP Deka battery, etc. This began to clear out the area quite rapidly.

























































You can see in this all the dried up G12 I scraped off of the side of the blocl and all of the space that we now have free.

















We then finished pulling the header and disconnected the O2 sensor.

















We got anxious so we test fit the new part in the old ones place just so it looked like we made forward progress

















Started to wrap up the afternoon, pulled the rain tray to gain access to where we will put the new stage 3 C2 software eventually.









Then did some measuring and thinking of how I can get rid of this piece of crap









I would like it to eventually look something like this:









That was it for the day. All that is left now is to unbolt the axles and the mounts and pull the engine. We would have done this but are waiting on the lift so it will have to wait for another day.

Good thing for those doing projects like this to organize and label everything. We have been bagging and tagging every bolt we remove so we know where it goes back together, also been labelling all the small random pieces because as the old title said, "weight saving" wasn't the goal of this project.
















More to come.....


----------



## #1VWSUTTA (Mar 19, 2003)

Tstat seal GONE! think about getting a metal crack pipe, and a new water pump while you are in there like that! your kits makin me jealous


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (#1VWSUTTA)*

i dunno if it is the seal, i did them all less than 18 months ago. yeah i am prolly going to get the billet crack pipe.
already have a new water pump from 2 years ago


----------



## Toiletcar (Aug 3, 2007)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (nOOb)*

so typical


----------



## ridefuel (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (Toiletcar)*

Your "mystery" part is an after-run coolant pump. electric pump that circulates the coolant after you turn the motor off and walk away. If the car is hot enough it will kick the fans on to help aid the cooling prosses. I think its a good idea, but the little pumps can be a pain if they fail. They cost a good penny to replace. some people remove them, I would never take mine Off I'm sure it helps lengthen the life of the motor.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (ridefuel)*

yea i had guessed it was the aux water pump as it had coolant going in and out of it, but it was kind of small. appreciate the clarification.


----------



## barebob (Oct 2, 2007)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (nOOb)*

nice project, wish i had the money to do the same thing. good luck.


----------



## vwjetta13 (Oct 30, 2006)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (nOOb)*

so the title says that this is updated *regulary*







....lookin good though http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

saweet


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (RipCity Euros)*

Looks good, looks like my shop about 3-4 months ago when I had all sorts of engine parts scattered everywhere


----------



## volksession (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (KubotaPowered)*

i cant wait to do mine. i wanna do it myself, but i think im taking a job out of state for the winter so if i choose to have it done soon, ill drop it off at my mechanic and pick it up when i get home


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (vwjetta13)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwjetta13* »_so the title says that this is updated *regulary*







....lookin good though http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

i tired fixing it after posting but I can't see to change the title that appears in the forum








thats what i get i guess.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (KubotaPowered)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KubotaPowered* »_Looks good, looks like my shop about 3-4 months ago when I had all sorts of engine parts scattered everywhere

I am trying to be as neat as possible to try and avoid the dreaded "where does this go" or "where did we put that?" that always seems to occur on projects of this magnitude


----------



## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

Will you be using an electronic dump tube like the one in the picture?


----------



## AlexiGTIVR6 (Jul 21, 2000)

*Re: (RipCity Euros)*

Keep the pics comming. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Cant wait to see it done and have a huge VR6T gathering in Van next year:grinsanta: 


_Quote, originally posted by *RipCity Euros* »_Will you be using an electronic dump tube like the one in the picture?

The one in that pic is vacuum actuated


----------



## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

*Re: (AlexiGTIVR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AlexiGTIVR6* »_
The one in that pic is vacuum actuated









Ok then, will you be using a vacuum actuated dump tube


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_
I am trying to be as neat as possible to try and avoid the dreaded "where does this go" or "where did we put that?" that always seems to occur on projects of this magnitude

Trust me it makes things so much easier! I tore mine apart starting in april and it wasnt back in the car and running until august because I wasnt going to take it to this level until the head came off then the pistons and rods were ordered then the block went to the machine shop, they took their sweet time, etc. Good luck with the build, theres a lot of knowledge here, if you run into any problems post up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## mikebobelak (Apr 9, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

If your going to reinstall the 2ndary air pump, Autozone has a rubber hose in its iventory that is the EXACT size/shape of the plastic one that breaks......$6.50... I'll look for the reciept...
If your using the Kinetic/C2 chip you can delete it though.........


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (AlexiGTIVR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AlexiGTIVR6* »_

The one in that pic is vacuum actuated










how would you know? did you build it or something

























































Thanks lex I appreciate all the help so far. All we need is tang to get another VR and turbo it and it can be like 2004 all over again....but faster.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (KubotaPowered)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KubotaPowered* »_
Trust me it makes things so much easier! I tore mine apart starting in april and it wasnt back in the car and running until august because I wasnt going to take it to this level until the head came off then the pistons and rods were ordered then the block went to the machine shop, they took their sweet time, etc. Good luck with the build, theres a lot of knowledge here, if you run into any problems post up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

That is the plan. That is why I made a thread on here because I KNOW something is going to come up between either the headgasket, the tranny work, the chains, or the turbo install.
Also having something comprehensive like this should allow others to see step by step what is involved.
Big props to everyone on here and the local Vancouver forum for the help.


----------



## o0bur (Aug 16, 2006)

You're mystery piece is the auxillary water pump. I'd keep it - it circulates coolant through the engine after it's been run. It helps cool the engine together, as opposed to the outsides cooling first and the center still being hot = cracked blocks = no good http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif
Nice write-up.. This all looks too familiar


----------



## BiSiE (Mar 15, 2005)

*Re: (o0bur)*

awesome project. I would delete the stupid pump. and i wanna know more about that dump valve please.
EDIT: air pump i mean


----------



## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

*Re: (BiSiE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BiSiE* »_ and i wanna know more about that dump valve please.


Its just a valve welded into the exhaust that opens under boost to relieve pressure, and increase exhaust flow, increasing the ability for the turbo to spool... and they sound wickid when open


----------



## BiSiE (Mar 15, 2005)

*Re: (RipCity Euros)*

sorry to hijack the thread (again). so it opens and closes through the RPM range?
where can I get one?
thnx again.


----------



## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

I believe they make electronicly activated ones, and vacume activated ones. ATP makes them, search dump tube on vortex, someone will have one or point you in the right direction to getting one.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (RipCity Euros)*

it is boost actuated not RPM....technically speaking.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Wednesday December 5th, 2007
Went to Cambodian Tire tonite with Graeme, picked up a set of 12 point 6" sockets to undo the axles and eventually the head bolts. Then braved the snowy conditions and went and grabbed the engine stand and engine hoist. Almost got in a massive accident in the ****ty conditions and wound up off the road literally 4" from a tree in the brand new truck....not how we wanted to end the evening.
Finally got back, undid the axles bolts and the 6 bolts for the 3 mounts. Hooked up the engine hoist and went at 'er.
























































That whole process only took a matter of 15 minutes tops to get the thing out, none of the bolts were seized or gave us difficulty and it came out smooth.
We then began unbolting the transmission so we could throw it on the table to be torn apart eventually for the LSD and 5th gear conversion kit. Also undid the starter motor.
































Engine without the tranny attached
















Since I finally got a hold of a VR6 spark plug puller i yanked the plugs so they would stop catching every bloody thing that came near them.

















We then took off the clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel. We were definetly surprised by the amount of clutch left and the condition it was in. I am pretty easy on the clutch but you would think on an original clutch with 155,000km's on the car there would be more wear, especially living on the north shore and dealing with the hills.









































So with it all apart I could finally see where I would eventually have to take everything apart to do the timing chains.









We finally unhooked everything and found a good use for the donut sitting in my garage....about all it is useful with this car now hahaha.









So now the car sits like this.









I am going to clean up the block and the tranny along with the engine bay later this week and over the weekend, and do some more reading on the timing chain guide i put together before I start down that path.
For those that have done the chains out of the car how have you hooked up the engine? I have a stand but it bolts onto the same side as the chains so what do you do? Just leave it where it is? Would be nice to get it in the air so I can do the oilpan at the same time.
Also put together my little red service cart tonite, with my bust ankle it makes it a little easier to get **** around the garage and keep stuff close by so i dont have to keep walking back and forth to the tool box.









More to come soon.
Thanks Graeme for the hand again, Brian and Neil for the stand and hoist.


----------



## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

Lookin good!


----------



## :DUB_LOVE: (Jan 4, 2007)

nice build man keep up the good work


----------



## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

*Re: DUB_LOVE*

Man, ur really keeping me satisfied with the quantity of pics in the thread, usually im bitching for more


----------



## heiney9 (Aug 9, 2006)

Love the photo's. Great thread........keep it up.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (RipCity Euros)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RipCity Euros* »_Man, ur really keeping me satisfied with the quantity of pics in the thread, usually im bitching for more









as am i. i hate it when there is like 3 pictures and thats how they took the engine out, i wanna see how each thing comes off leading to it so that when i wanna do it i know how.
hence this thread


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

PEEK A BOO!


















also got to changing the mounts out.
front one and tranny were easy, can't figure out how to take apart the lower cup on the side mount however. Screwdriver and pry the clips upwards??


----------



## keychain12 (Aug 17, 2003)

keep up the good work. Definitely looks good on the organizing end of things.
I'm about to start an engine switcheroo from my current 139xxx vr6 to a 40xxx mile vr6 with arp products, 8.5 to 1 head spacer, and more goodies...so eventually I can throw that boost on!
Whenever this gets done, I'd love to see a video of that exhaust when that flange opens up!


----------



## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

Your car will run like poo naturally aspirated on 8.5:1 CR until you get boost. 
Hey n00b you should get some boost cams from DSR while the heads open. And what stage 4 brand clutch will you be using?


----------



## keychain12 (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (RipCity Euros)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RipCity Euros* »_Your car will run like poo naturally aspirated on 8.5:1 CR until you get boost. 


It won't be as fast as vr6 with stock head spacer, but it'll be fine until I get the money for the boost.
I'll have autotech 262 cams, unorthodox racing pulleys, turn 2 cai, and a magnaflow exhaust on it so it should be okay.
But, I'm not totally sure what it will be like with that head spacer on it.


_Modified by keychain12 at 6:26 PM 12-9-2007_


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (keychain12)*

December 9, 2007
Went and got drunk last night at the company christmas party so I spent the morning on the couch watching football and the Patriots winning another one before heading down to the garage.
Once I finally got my ass motivated I was able to get a bunch of stuff done. Graeme came over again half way through to drop off the 27mm socket I needed and help read instructions from my timing chain guide I put together.

Started where I left off earlier in the week and pried apart the side mount lower cup from the top cup using a set of pliers to pull the 4 metal clips back slightly. 
















Once apart I gained access to the lower part of the stock mount which was super squishy and gross.
















Assembled the mount back together with the new BFI Stage1 mount inserts. 








Here you can see the comparison between the old tranny mount and the new BFI Stage1 tranny mount that I also swapped in.
















Then i went back to the engine and began working on getting it all apart.
Pulled out the spark plugs using a 5/8" deep socket.









Then using my trusty M80 bolt I keep in my ashtray for this specific reason I loosened off my serpentine belt tensioner. This would allow me enough slack to remove the belt itself off. I will be changing the belt as well, I changed it when i first got the car at 108,000km's and figure it wouldn't hurt to replace it again.
























When I pulled the valve cover off I found that my camshafts were in this position.








I needed to rotate them so that cylinder #1 was in TDC position. THis would make the grooves in both cam shafts be horizontal and parallel to the top of the head allowing me to slide the VW camshaft plate into place to stop the cams spinning changing the timing during the timing chain replacement steps.
To spin the camshafts I spun the 27mm bolt on the bottom of the block CLOCKWISE until the cams were in proper position. dont spin it counter clockwise if you try doing this, apparently its bad for the engine.









Once the cams grooves were parallel with the top of the head I inserted the cam locking plate, undid the 27mm bolt on the back of the head and the 5mm allen bolts on the timing chain cover. I was then able to remove the top half of the timing chain cover.









Then went about undoing all of the 10mm bolts on the lower timing chain cover as well as the 3 5mm allen bolts on the bottom which also hold the oil pan on.









Once this was done I was able to remove the lower cover exposing the timing chain setup.









I then undid the 2 13mm bolts holding the upper rail guide on. 

















I then slide the guide upwards and out below the chain and out of the engine. Below you can see the state of the guides, they were actually in very good condition with very minimal grooving if any. You couldn't catch your nail on them even.









I then slackend the chains by undoing the intermediate sprocket (15mm), it was a bitch to undo but nothing that my massive breaker bar couldn't handle. 









Once loose I then removed the intermediate sprocket and along with it the upper timing chain.

















Once the chain is removed the upper tensioner rail falls down from where it was through the hole in the exposed headgasket. It is simply held on with a pin so you can then just pull it right off.

















As you can see again, very little wear on the tensioner itself.









I then removed the lower tensioner and the lower rail body with the 2 5mm allen bolts that hold each on.

















Again, very little wear on the contact parts.

















Pulled off the inner intermediate sprocket and along with it the lower timing chain.








At this point all of the timing chain parts are now removed from the engine.









Began to pull the head apart physically. Removed the god knows how many head bolts.

















All the bolts are removed, you can also see clearly the VW cam locking plate in place stopping the cams from moving at all.








Then we pried the head off of the block and seperated the gasket. The oil you see simply leaked down from the head as we removed it, there was no leak in the headgasket or anything prior to doing this work.

























Put the head on some cardboard and old soft t-shirts.

























That's all for today. Later in the week or next weekend I will try and clean up the pistons with some brake cleaner, I have rags on the block soaking up any of the excess oil that spilled. 
Next will be installing the headspacer and new headgasket as well as re-assembling the timing chain setup with the new hardware. I have all new guides, tensioners and chains to go onto the engine. Will also install the phelonic spacer while the head is off of the block and I have easy access to all the bolts.


----------



## Sku96 (Nov 13, 2007)

nice work!


----------



## Dilger2.8 (Mar 24, 2007)

car is going to be serious cant wait to see how it comes out so far cause im thinking bout doing a turbo in my vr, so far is it difficult???


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (Dilger2.8)*

honestly not nearly as bad as i thought it was going to be. I am in no way a mechanic or really all that mechanically savvy. I just did lots of reading and spoke with people who knew about the stuff. Took my time, took lots of photos, took lots of notes, and labelled EVERY LITTLE THING i took off the car.
I literally have a photo of every part installed and then taken off so if I get stuck I can go back to the photos.
I am definetly learning a lot doing this and loving it


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (keychain12)*


_Quote, originally posted by *keychain12* »_
It won't be as fast as vr6 with stock head spacer, but it'll be fine until I get the money for the boost.
I'll have autotech 262 cams, unorthodox racing pulleys, turn 2 cai, and a magnaflow exhaust on it so it should be okay.
But, I'm not totally sure what it will be like with that head spacer on it.

_Modified by keychain12 at 6:26 PM 12-9-2007_

just wait and do the headspacer when you get money for boost. your car is really going to run like complete garbage. if i wasn't doing the chains the engine could have stayed in the car and would have been easy to get to the head gasket now that i know what i am doing a little better


----------



## :DUB_LOVE: (Jan 4, 2007)

bump bump


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

need clutch options. Keep in mind i want to be able to daily this car, so a stage193 clutch that will make it like driving an F1 car.


----------



## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

Ive heard horror stories about spec clutches. Ive only heard great things about clutchnet though...


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

clutchnet 6 puck sprung


----------



## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: (crazysccrmd)*

id only run a clutchnet. i am running a 4 puck sprung on my 1.8t and it bites a little quicker but feels stock. it all has to do with the PP. id prob go with a 6 puck.


----------



## tekstepvr6 (Aug 15, 2001)

*Re: (bonesaw)*

I had a Spec 6 puck that chattered a bit and then switched to a Cluchnet 6 puck which was great before I melted the disk to the pressure plate during a 2nd gear burnout in the waterbox. I'm running a southbend stage 5 clutch now (rated for 580 trq) and its a little much for daily driving. Look into the clutchnet 6 puck.


----------



## VRdublove (Apr 26, 2004)

*Re: (tekstepvr6)*

I also had a bad experience with a SPEC stage 2, I sheared one of the bolts off the pressure plate.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (VRdublove)*

this the one you all are referring to?
http://www.clutchnet.com/produ...age=1


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

yep, got mine from pag-parts


----------



## ridefuel (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (crazysccrmd)*

Little word of advice for you on the cleaning the piston thing you mentioned, don't. leave them alone. If your anything like me you want everything clean when you do a job. This was one thing that was hard for me to leave alone when I did rebuilds. The best thing you can do is get them all below TDC so you can fill them up with ATF. make sure the ATF covers the piston. Why clean the piston, you wont see it when its together? If you clean them you chance knocking chunks of dirt/carbon down into the rings, and you'll wonder why the motor you just rebuilt smokes when your done. Or you could score the walls leading to failure later in its life. The ATF will condition the rings and will let you know if there is a problem with any of the rings before you put the motor back together. 
If you have loose stuff on the top of the piston you want to knock off so it doesn't get in the rings as your working on it. Use a vacuum and as you knock something loose be sure the tip of the vacuum is there to suck it up. Do not scrape the top of the piston with a screw driver.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (ridefuel)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ridefuel* »_Little word of advice for you on the cleaning the piston thing you mentioned, don't. leave them alone. If your anything like me you want everything clean when you do a job. This was one thing that was hard for me to leave alone when I did rebuilds. The best thing you can do is get them all below TDC so you can fill them up with ATF. make sure the ATF covers the piston. Why clean the piston, you wont see it when its together? If you clean them you chance knocking chunks of dirt/carbon down into the rings, and you'll wonder why the motor you just rebuilt smokes when your done. Or you could score the walls leading to failure later in its life. The ATF will condition the rings and will let you know if there is a problem with any of the rings before you put the motor back together. 
If you have loose stuff on the top of the piston you want to knock off so it doesn't get in the rings as your working on it. Use a vacuum and as you knock something loose be sure the tip of the vacuum is there to suck it up. Do not scrape the top of the piston with a screw driver. 


we were just told to use brake cleaner to loosen the crap and then a cloth to wipe it up. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif or http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

New toys arrived today and yesterday.
ARP Headstuds for bolting the head and block back together from Mopac.








Big Finger to UPS for screwing us Canadians on their damn brokerage fees. I had to use air mail to get these gears up costing me a fortune to avoid massive amounts of fees for them to bring them across the border. So much for NAFTA.































The gears.








[/


----------



## ridefuel (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_

we were just told to use brake cleaner to loosen the crap and then a cloth to wipe it up. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif or http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif Dont chance it, unless something looks like it may flake off when your spinning the crank to get to TDC. dont even worry about the oil in the cyl, just put the ATF in. I have never cleaned pistons and had them mess up, so I dont say anything from experience. I have always trusted my lead mechanics/foremans so I have done it this way from day one. I can say I have never had an issue with leaving the stuff on the piston. Your car do as you wish, just passing ther info I learned on. http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif


----------



## magz0r (Jun 27, 2005)

*Re: (ridefuel)*

Great thread, lots of pics which I like. I am sure I'll be referring back to this when I do my chains and HG spacer this summer. I took a bunch of pics during my turbo install and surprisingly I referred back to them quite often during the install in order to see the original state of the engine.
Big http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif on a nice build thread.


----------



## BiSiE (Mar 15, 2005)

*Re: (magz0r)*

great thread.







motivates me to get in the cold garage


----------



## JRaptor (Dec 13, 2006)

btw guys, when i bought my car it had a head spacer for boost and the car ran fine. it was bone stock with a head spacer and a TT exhaust and i could beat out R32's. i ended up switching back to a mkiv headgasket though because i didnt have the money for boost and didnt want to wait a year or longer to go fast.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

just found this little gem for sale. Pretty rare, I believe its one of 3....and is supposed to be the best on the market.
HGP/HPA Short Runner Intake








needless to say, i'm happy


----------



## sc_rufctr (Jun 28, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Looks COOL... Any more info on the "HGP/HPA Short Runner Intake"?


----------



## AlexiGTIVR6 (Jul 21, 2000)

*Re: (sc_rufctr)*

Hey Rondal. FYI, That is the one of the 3 I bought over from Wagner-Tuning when I got mine. There is definitely a few more out there.


----------



## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

*Re: (AlexiGTIVR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AlexiGTIVR6* »_Hey Rondal. FYI, That is the one of the 3 I bought over from Wagner-Tuning when I got mine. There is definitely a few more out there.









yeah, deff looks like a wagner tuning manifold, those are very nice







and either polish it or paint it black...


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (AlexiGTIVR6)*

stupid clee lied. oh well im still grabbing it.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Update: December 23rd, 2007 -Install Headspacer and Gaskets
Using brake cleaner I cleaned all of the contact surfaces on the head and the block. Spent lots of time on this making sure there was no high points and i cleaned up some of the carbon buildup on the pistons though there really wasn't much to clean off.
Using one of the old head studs I sprayed it was WD-40 to clean the threads on the stud, then sprayed WD-40 into each of the holes where the studs go into the block in an attempt to clean out any crap or corrosion that may have built up. It takes a bit of time but it is worth it.
I had an issue sorting out which headstud went where in the block as there are 3 different sizes, but eventually sorted it out after laying the head back on and guessing and testing a few of the questionable holes.










Looking at the block with the intake ports closest and exhaust ports furthest away from you in a birds eye view:
back row of (7): 4 - 5 - 4 - 5 - 4 - 5 - 4
center row of (7): 5 - 5 - 5 - 5 - 5 - 5 - 5
front row of (6): 4 - 6 - 4 - 6 - 4 - 6

I then removed the head off of the block and placed all the studs in their corresponding holes









Using the ARP Lubricant I lubed the threads on each of the studs one by one and hand tightend them into place, finishing it off with an allen key to snug them up. This is where having cleaned the threads helped as they spin into place very easily.

















During the process I just so happend to drop the small allen key I was using into the water jacket in the block. just a reminder to be very careful and avoid using things that may fall into the block. I made some chopsticks out of a coathanger and fished it out.

The studs all in place:









I then recleaned the contact surface on the block as some of the poly lube had come out of the threads and pooled. 
I then lay the first gasket

















followed by the headpspacer:









followed by the final gasket completing the sandwich









I then placed the head carefully back down onto the block









.....and called it a day. Gotta pack to fly home for christmas tomorrow and spent some more time working on the jetta as well which cut into the time a lot.
More to come in the new year when i get back.


----------



## LISTO14 (Dec 20, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

haha sandwich. youur takinout the ac compressor and power steering too rite?


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (LISTO14)*

nope.
going to run some custom A/C lines and sorting out the IC plumbing.


----------



## sc_rufctr (Jun 28, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Love this post...
I forgot how sexy the VR6 engine is when naked.
Thanks Noob


----------



## mk2vrooom (Oct 15, 2003)

*Re: (sc_rufctr)*

no copper gasket spray on the spacer and gaskets??...


----------



## rxfx101 (Sep 29, 2003)

*Re: (mk2vrooom)*

*gasp!*


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (rxfx101)*

copper gasket spray will be applied when it goes back together. i am pulling it all apart again and redoing to the block and head to make sure 100% that it is PERFECT. the spray will be applied to stop weeping yes.
i was a little quick to jump the gun and do that stuff before i left...


----------



## Terrible One (Apr 25, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

If you cannot find another SAI tube, break off the sleeved plastic over the 2 ends, and get some automotive grade hose. Have had to do this 3 times, works perfect. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SP00LD0NU (Jul 30, 2007)

This thread kicks @ss. Great info and pics http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Soren (Oct 31, 2000)

If I ever go turbo or SC I will follow your lead and do all of this maintenance stuff in preparation. Thanks for doing this, I'm sure people will be referring to this thread for a long time. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (Soren)*

Im busy trying to find some permatex copper gasket sealer so no work has been done yet.
Stay tuned for more though.


----------



## boravr6NS (Jan 5, 2008)

*Re: (nOOb)*

i noticed that your have not touched the rings, bearings or done any head work. Was this motor rebuilt before? do you think it will hold up to the boost? how many kms (fellow canuck)? 
Did you do compression tests, etc? 
i am only asking because when i do my 01 jetta (150km) this spring i really worried about its longevity!!!!


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (boravr6NS)*

compression and everything were great before i tore it apart.
the biggest things with projects like this is making a budget that is doable and then sticking to it. Otherwise its very easy to add small things into it, which eventually add up and this turns into a $15K build up.


----------



## TallaiMan (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_Otherwise its very easy to add small things into it, which eventually add up and this turns into a $15K build up.

The story of my life....








Great build, btw.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (TallaiMan)*

January 15th, 2008
*Clean up of Head & Block *
So after a bit of time off over Christmas and a delay in being able to work on the Smurf after picking up my MK2 beater and the associated crap I had to deal with to get that running I finally got around to sorting out the head and block *PROPERLY.*

After doing more research and speaking with others I realized my initial attempt at "cleaning" everything up didn't go far enough and to avoid possible headgasket leaks down the road I figured I might as well do it properly the first time to avoid the headache of leaking or weeping gasket.

Last week I made a run to Auto Value and grabbed a can of permatex copper gasket spray. This tack allows the gasket to be sticky when you put it on and helps to avoid leaks and weeping. 









To clean up the head and block I went to Canadian Tire and picked up some 3M autobody abrasive pads, I chose the red one as its the medium strength.








Grabbed a sanding block and it was work time!









Started off doing the head. There was still some oil inside the head which leaked onto the gaskets when i first tried laying it down. So what I did was sprayed some brake cleaner into the ports to try and thin out the oil and allow it to flow out easier. I threw the head on the table on some 2x6's being careful not to rest on the valves and coated everything down. Bunch more crap came out that I thought would, prolly better this way to avoid anything messing with the gasket seal.
























As you can see from the pictures there was some buildup of dried coolant near some of the water jacket holes. 
I coated small areas in brake cleaner and slowly scrubbed away at them until they broke down and disappeared.
























Finally the finished it after about an hour of work. I tried to get as much of the coolant and carbon buildup off as I could but I didn't want to damage the valves or etch them at all so I left the areas directly around them alone.

This is what it turned out like
















Happy with that result i went back to the block. I removed the ARP headstuds (hadn't torqued them down at all) and the gaskets and did the same thing on the block.
This is what it looked like before when I tried putting it back together, and I was trying to clean it up more than that.








After a little love:

























The finished product with some Canadian BLING!








I also took the time to clean up all the crap surrounding the coolant port on the block with the thermostat housing connects. As you can see in the previous pictures there was a leak here so I cleaned it up.

















That's it for tonite, tomorrow the tranny gets finished off and I will post those pics and I will mount the head back of the block and do the timing chains if all goes well.
Cheers.










_Modified by nOOb at 10:51 PM 1-15-2008_


----------



## Roadhog_ (Feb 26, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

cool build.
Did you check the head to see if it is flat.... You might want to do that before putting it back on.. Having it machined flat again is rather cheap.


----------



## AlexiGTIVR6 (Jul 21, 2000)

*Re: (Roadhog_)*

Looking much better now http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Now get that manifold of the head and install a frost plug for the air pump.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (AlexiGTIVR6)*

do tell about the frost plug alexi.
And i'd pull the lower intake manifold off if there was a new one to put on there




























but SOMEONE still has it. 
i know...i know....its not your fault, i blame the russian for it taking so long. 
Right now it stays on just to make moving it around on the bench a hell of a lot easier for the time being


----------



## CorvetteKillerVr6 (May 9, 2007)

your car is sick dude.
too bad ur not anywhere near ontario or we would have to meet up sometime once its all done.!
im just in the process of preparing to do my chains in the next few weeks, and my new custom MSD coil is all done


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

thanks man i appreciate it.
time to put humpty dumpty back together again.


----------



## billiethebutcher (Sep 24, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

where did you get that bar that you used to get the engine out? 
are you going to install 5th gear and the lsd yourself?
you got this far, why not just got an extra hundred or 2 more and replace the rings and hone the cylinders?
looks good http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_do tell about the frost plug alexi.
And i'd pull the lower intake manifold off if there was a new one to put on there




























but SOMEONE still has it. 
i know...i know....its not your fault, i blame the russian for it taking so long. 
Right now it stays on just to make moving it around on the bench a hell of a lot easier for the time being

for the SAI hole in the head, you can just plug it using a 3/4" freeze plug or do what i did and paid a few bucks for the 42DD billet plug


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (billiethebutcher)*


_Quote, originally posted by *billiethebutcher* »_where did you get that bar that you used to get the engine out? 
are you going to install 5th gear and the lsd yourself?
you got this far, why not just got an extra hundred or 2 more and replace the rings and hone the cylinders?
looks good http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Bar came from home depot I believe, its a buddies hoist and we picked it up so that we could adjust where we wanted the tension points.
LSD and 5th gear are being done by another guy, i didn't trust i could do the work and didn't want to buy the tools. 
As I stated when i started out, there are endless amounts of small things for "a few extra hundred" that I could fix/replace while I am in there. But I made a realistic budget that should be more than enough to allow a build like this and I intend to stick to it. Otherwise this turns from a build thread into and endless money hole and I end up doing a full ground up rebuild replacing every single bolt, part, washer. etc.
if it breaks...i fix it.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (MyCarIsRed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MyCarIsRed* »_
for the SAI hole in the head, you can just plug it using a 3/4" freeze plug or do what i did and paid a few bucks for the 42DD billet plug


good call....gonna order one now.


----------



## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*

yeah it's a really pretty pieces, but as i found out, you're pretty much never going to ever see it... it's a shame... well i know it's there so i guess that counts for something


----------



## Wish it was a DE (Nov 15, 2007)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (nOOb)*

your car is tits


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

cheers to another jazzy owner


----------



## Wish it was a DE (Nov 15, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

i basically just did the same kind of rebuild on my car, except for forced induction.


----------



## AlexiGTIVR6 (Jul 21, 2000)

*Re: (JazzBlue98DEVR6GTI)*

Rondal, FYI: the 42dd plug will not work with your SRI. You will need a frost plug.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (AlexiGTIVR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AlexiGTIVR6* »_Rondal, FYI: the 42dd plug will not work with your SRI. You will need a frost plug.









you greek bastard now you tell me. i took off from work early and ran to C1 to grab one. Guess I will have to return it saturday and grab a frost plug.
it is a sick piece tho:


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

*January 19, 2008 - Engine Goes Back Together & Timing Chains Installed*
_Well the weather outside was frightful...._








_But the garage was sooooo delightful....._








_And since we've got no place to go....let it snow, let it snow, let it snow....._

Yes, the weather today was a little bit $hitty to say the least, -12C outside, but it was a balmy 20 degrees in the garage which made for perfect VR-T build conditions.
Graeme came over again to help out, pulling some donuts and drifts on the road in the snow in the miata...god i want one on snowy days.

I started by removing the lower intake manifold runners, along with the other bits and pieces of the secondary air injection system. Measured the hole up for a frost plug which I will look for next week sometime. Taped up the intake ports into the head and removed the serpentine belt tensioner and the hoist point on the other side, which left the block all naked. 
























Next using the Permatex copper gasket spray sealant I did 3 even coats on both sides of the two head gaskets that would be used to sandwich the headspacer. If you do this on your vehicle DO NOT SPRAY THE BLOCK, HEAD OR SPACER...just do the gaskets evenly on both sides.









While they tacked up nicely we took the lower timing chain cover and carefully with a flat head screwdriver removed the old rear main seal. If you are doing your chains this is a good thing to do while you are in there. To install the new one we simply lined it up, lubed up the inside ring of the cover with some oil, put a piece of wood over it and tapped it carefully into place with a mallet. Very easy to install.








I then installed the ARP headbolts and snugged them down by hand.
We then began installing the lower timing chains, I was told it's easier to installed the lower chains and the cover, and then put the gaskets and headspacer on as you have the full shape of the gasket then layed down. We later found it was not this simple as you cannot line up the chains without the head on and check the timing properly, so we only made it half way before putting the head on.
First we installed the lower chain guide.








And then installed the lower chain. When doing this you must be sure to first make sure the block is at TDC, which is should be if you haven't moved it. Even if you are sure it hasn't moved you can never check the timing too many times. To do this you must line up the timing marks on the lower chain sprocket. There is a tooth that is missing half of the tooth on purpose and you must line that up with the little line on the inner wall of the block. You must then line up the upper cog arrow on the spline at either the 6 o'clock or 12 o'clock positions. It is very helpful to have another set of hands for this to hold the upper gear on its mount so you can move it without bolting it up. Once the lower chains was on and timing was double checked we loosely tightend the upper gear bolt into place so the gear wouldn't fall off.









Next I cleaned off the block and head surfaces again and gave them a wipe down to insure there was no grease that was on the contact surfaces for the gaskets.
We then layed the first gasket, and then the headspacer carefully. Again its nice to have a second set of hands to guide the gaskets down. They like to catch on the ARP headbolt threads on the way down.









Then the second gasket was lowered into place









And then the head was finally lowered into place.


















We then lay the already oiled ARP headbolt washers on top of all of the bolts (20 in total)








We then by hand loosely put into place all of the ARP headbolts, and then after a quick trip to the store to pick up a torque wrench cause i didn't realize the one I had wasn't big enough, we torqued it all down following the ARP torque specs and the Bentley torquing order.









We then began to assemble the upper timing guide. We later found out its easier to not put in the top of the two bolts and to leave it free until the chain is actually in place and looped over the two cam gears. Its very difficult to try and fit the chain between the guide and the gear. We also installed the upper tensioner (the white bit). Don't pull out the U-ring on it until the chain is in place. The U-ring holds the tension in the tensioner and allows easy install of the tensioner and chain.








We then assembled the top chain. For some reason it came with a link detached so we had to assemble it into a loop. nothing a slit tap with the hammer on the floor while a small socket protected the joints of the chain couldn't solve.









We then installed the upper chain, again double checking the timing marks on the intermediate gear. The outer intermediate gear attaches to the inner intermediate gear only one way, but it is important to insure you dont move the lower chain to get the two to fit together.









We then took some Permatex Sensor Safe High Temp Gasket Maker which we purchased earlier in the day and went to work installing the chain covers.








We laid a bead of the gasket sealer around the contact points on the block. Before doing this I had cleaned up the seal areas with brake cleaner and 3M scuff pad on both the covers and the block

__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content

















We first did the lower one, being careful to line up the rear main seal over the flange properly. We used the plastic guide to position it properly and it worked quite well. Then used a mallet to lightly tap it all into place and snug up.









We then did the same with the top chain cover, this time applying it to the cover itself as the guide we were using said it was much easier to.

















We then attached the top cover to the block, again tapping to make sure it was sealed up all the way round.








We then began installing all of the cover bolts, only doing them part way as you are supposed to let the gasket maker set for an hour before torquing them down all the way. This is when it pays to have labelled everything properly when you took it off as all i had to dow as sift through the box to find the correct bags.

















Slowly the engine was beginning to once again look like a VR.
















Next I installed the chain tensioner bolt. 








To do this I filled a clean yoghurt container with about 4" of oil and put the bolt in the oil.
























After letting it sit for a minute i put my hand in the container, stood the bolt upright and pushed down on it. This compresses the bolt and pushes the air out of its inner part. Then when you release the bolt it expands drawing in the oil.
I then installed it onto the back of the head and torqued it into place.









I then removed the cam locking plate and put the valve cover on. Allowing the VR to return to its original state.


----------



## dossantos25 (Mar 18, 2005)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Although im sure you did this step already, give the motor a few turns by hand and make sure your timing marks are good, easier to make any adjustments now before it goes all back together. again im sure you covered that as the rest of the build is going smoothly.


----------



## Wish it was a DE (Nov 15, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

good documentation, noone hardly ever documents their vr6 build-ups. good work!


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (dossantos25)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dossantos25* »_Although im sure you did this step already, give the motor a few turns by hand and make sure your timing marks are good, easier to make any adjustments now before it goes all back together. again im sure you covered that as the rest of the build is going smoothly.

we did two full turns of the crank to make sure we could slide the cam plate back in when they should be able to in the rotation, went off without a hitch.
But yes, you can never check your timing too many times.


----------



## francocorrado (Nov 23, 2004)

^^^Most definitely mate, make 2 full turns of the crank when the engine is back in, just to make sure.
Good thread! So what's next? Turbo or tranny?


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (francocorrado)*

Tranny on Monday.
Sunday and a few days next week will be spent cleaning every inch of the block and head with a toothbrish, superclean and some brake cleaner to make it sparkle. I wanted to get everything sealed up first before i knocked **** loose but it will be clean.
Then manifold go on and turbo on to that...then back into the car and the fun starts putting it all back together again


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Finally got it into the stand and cleaned up my floor


----------



## AlexiGTIVR6 (Jul 21, 2000)

*Re: (nOOb)*

I got something for you Rondal







All the holes are now drilled and tapped and the TB is now port matched


----------



## LISTO14 (Dec 20, 2007)

*Re: (AlexiGTIVR6)*

Clean that $h1t No0B


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (LISTO14)*


_Quote, originally posted by *LISTO14* »_Clean that $h1t No0B































my fingers hurt.
"well now you're backs gonna hurt cause you just pulled landscaping duty"


----------



## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_






















my fingers hurt.
"well now you're backs gonna hurt cause you just pulled landscaping duty"










"see the name tag? you're in my world now grandma"









that rtv is brutal! it smells like vinegar but it gets into your lungs and makes your eyes water... terrible.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (MyCarIsRed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MyCarIsRed* »_

that rtv is brutal! it smells like vinegar but it gets into your lungs and makes your eyes water... terrible.

VINEGAR!!! thats what that crap smelled like. we were trying to put our finger on it cause it smelled familiar but i just didn't know what else smelled that terrible.
Ya its horrible ****, and it gets on your fingers if you aren't wearing gloves and is a [email protected] to deal with. god that was a horrible experiance haha.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

_January 21, 2008
* Cleaning of the Engine* _

Began cleaning the engine today as planned, and to quiet down the peanut gallery. Retrofitted my laundry sink that was busted into a parts washer so I could really scrub away some of the crap.

Cleaned up the Valve Cover; it will be getting a second cleaning but I wanted to see how far along I could get it:









The tranny mount was completely black. Gave it a douche with some SuperClean and presto:









Cleaned up the starter by hand making sure not to get water into the inside or near the electrical:

Before:









After:








My MMP Deka battery tray and the PS reservoir were filthy









After:

















I then pulled off the ol crackpipe, o-ring going into the block doesn't look like it had much life left:

























That opened up this can of smashed @ssholes of a mess from the leaky T-Stat housing where it bolted up to the block and was leaking.








Gave it some love:









I then undid the 3 13mm bolts holding on the oil filter housing and removed it to expose more mess behind it on the block:

















And the mess that was the oil filter housing itself:









After a lot of superclean and some scrubbing with the toothbrush I acheived the following results:
















Now question for the peanut gallery who were going on about blowing out the oil lines with air. I have removed the filter housing as you can see above and there are two holes in the block exposed. Which hole do I want to be pushing air through so that any crap in the block makes its way down into the oil pan. (I have still yet to change out the pan and gasket so don't even mention that part yet). I can if need be undo the oil line from the block to the oil cooler but I don't know if this is needed or not to do what you guys were talking about. Please comment.

More cleaning to come later in the week, along with new T-stat housing, new waterpipe, and some other replacement parts.
Before anyone asks; NO I will not be repainting the block entirely. I don't have the resources to do this in house and that is why it was not/will not be done. I am doing my best however to clean everything up nicely. Bitch and moan about not doing it right blah blah blah....I simply don't have the resources or the ability to do it. End of story.


----------



## dossantos25 (Mar 18, 2005)

*Re: (nOOb)*

i wouldn't worry to much to be honest, i think the right is the feed and the left is the exit into the motor but not really sure. if everything looks okay inside i wouldn't go spraying too much air into there, you might disturb something that you wont see and could cause problems later. id poor some oil through the motor and see what you can get to come out of it that way.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (dossantos25)*

yeah i was thinking of using some 0w30 and pouring a bit in with the valve cover off so it can seep down through the oil galleries, through the block and into the pan bringing any crap down with it that may have ended up in there. I was pretty clean about everything and making sure everything was covered up.
You can never be too safe tho, it is the lifeblood of the engine


----------



## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*

damn you photobucket bandwidth!!


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

dont worry i paid the $9 and went pro. photobucket is back up and running.


----------



## dragonfli_x (Jul 16, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

RTV sticking issues can be resolved by spitting on your fingers before touching the RTV... enjoy and I'm going to be following your buildup for mine...







good job so far!!!


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (dragonfli_x)*

You should use FaelinGL's DIY for disassembling the starter and regreasing it while you have it out. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Cubix (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

I love this thread


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_You should use FaelinGL's DIY for disassembling the starter and regreasing it while you have it out. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


link?


----------



## skaterazn (Jan 9, 2007)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2269482


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (skaterazn)*

yeah thats definetly an easy fix with the starter where it is. will do it this weekend.


----------



## surge1468 (Jun 12, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

how much money do you think you have dropped into the project so far


----------



## bmxrado (Jan 4, 2003)

*Re: (keychain12)*


_Quote, originally posted by *keychain12* »_
It won't be as fast as vr6 with stock head spacer, but it'll be fine until I get the money for the boost.



RipCity Euros said:


> Your car will run like poo naturally aspirated on 8.5:1 CR until you get boost.
> QUOTE]
> both these statements arent true. i ran mine with that compression and made 160whp at a dyno day while others made less on stock compression
> 
> ...


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (surge1468)*


_Quote, originally posted by *surge1468* »_how much money do you think you have dropped into the project so far 
 
I was able to piece together a lot of it over the last 6 months so that has helped keep costs down. The way it stands at the moment I am going to come in just over budget, but that is due to a few things that I should have built into my initial amount. Having no labor costs except for beer and the odd wendy's meal for thos ehelping me has kept costs WAAAAAY down.
To replicate everything you are prolly looking at about $7-8K give or take in parts. But that's including everything down to the brake cleaner and scrubbing pads. People don't lie...it's the small stuff that adds up.


----------



## francocorrado (Nov 23, 2004)

Good thread man. Glad to see your documenting it for the peeps


----------



## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_ 
I was able to piece together a lot of it over the last 6 months so that has helped keep costs down. The way it stands at the moment I am going to come in just over budget, but that is due to a few things that I should have built into my initial amount. Having no labor costs except for beer and the odd wendy's meal for thos ehelping me has kept costs WAAAAAY down.
To replicate everything you are prolly looking at about $7-8K give or take in parts. But that's including everything down to the brake cleaner and scrubbing pads. People don't lie...it's the small stuff that adds up.

i just did a full head rebuild a few months ago and as it turns out, having the headwork done is the cheapest part. there are so many little thing that you don't consider... even down to the "what ifs" and little things along the way that are either broken or worth replacing... not to mention the tools you always realize you need to go buy. all in all i spent about $4000 all said and done. the headwork itself was only $850... go figure.


----------



## SP00LD0NU (Jul 30, 2007)

very Nice Progress. I can't wait for spring time. This thread will be like a bible. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

what are most of you guys running VR-T's using for your DV's?


----------



## crzygreek (Jul 8, 2005)

*Re: (nOOb)*

anything from forge 007 to bailey, i myself will be getting one or two apr R1 dv's as they are a great company and come with a lifetime warranty on the part, plus no need to open up and re-build it every couple of months. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
nice project, can't wait to get my thread up too


----------



## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (crzygreek)*

it's funny cause most aftermarket turbo kits come with the bosch DV from the 1.8t's. "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" comes to mind. it's cheap, can hold boost and it proven itself reliable.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (MyCarIsRed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MyCarIsRed* »_it's funny cause most aftermarket turbo kits come with the bosch DV from the 1.8t's. "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" comes to mind. it's cheap, can hold boost and it proven itself reliable.

yea but there;s also a reason why most 1.8T guys have to buy new DV's....cause the stock ones suck.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

So I dug out all the turbo kit parts as it is getting near the time to start assembling everything.
I layed it all out on the table just to do an inventory:









Now here is a pic of the oil feed:








and oil return:









When you look in the bag up near the top of the first picture you can see the flange for the oil feed line to the turbo, but i cant seem to find a similar flange for the oil return. There is a gasket in there with the square shape, but no metal flange itself.
Now i am wondering if there is a piece missing here or what? Also should there not also be another rubberized gasket for the oil feed flange as well?
This is the contents of the top bag:








And this is the other oil line bag, i dont see any flanges with the same shape as needed for the turbo:


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

Alright so following the instructions both in kinetic's "install guide" (pretty ****ing horrid) and from a thread online i sorted out that the oil feed line goes like this from the filter housing (after removing the one sensor and installing the T)









and then goes up to the turbo and into an a 90* fitting which is supposed to screw into the turbo. But as you can see without some kind of a flange the fitting wont screw in cause it hits the cold side. WTF? Am I missing something here or are we actually expected to disassemble the turbo to install this oil fitting?


----------



## BMAN (Jun 9, 1999)

*Re: (nOOb)*

I too had the same problem when I tried to put the fitting on. Just remove the 3 bolts and remove the gold plate. Then install and re-install the plate.


----------



## AlexiGTIVR6 (Jul 21, 2000)

*Re: (nOOb)*

LOL, You have that completely wrong.











_Modified by AlexiGTIVR6 at 4:55 PM 1-26-2008_


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (AlexiGTIVR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AlexiGTIVR6* »_LOL, You have that completely wrong.








_Modified by AlexiGTIVR6 at 4:55 PM 1-26-2008_


bastid.
explain then. i am looking at kinetic's pictures and they show how i set it up. if you got a better way i wanna know


----------



## AlexiGTIVR6 (Jul 21, 2000)

*Re: (nOOb)*









Its not better way its the right way








The silver fiiting on the brass T goes into the turbo then the swivel fitting then your the oil line bolts onto that. You can then swivel it to point in any direction 
The brass T goes on the oil filter housing, The stock sensor then goes on top of that and the 90" fitting your trying to put on the turbo goes into the other whole in the t fitting. 
Got it












_Modified by AlexiGTIVR6 at 5:48 PM 1-26-2008_


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (AlexiGTIVR6)*

pwned








Thanks for the heads up tho. I found 2 kinetic build threads on here that tried doing it my way. The kinetic manual is wrong as it shows it the way i was trying to do it.
Thanks Mr Greek.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

It seems kinetic has screwed us. You can't do it the way Alexi posted because the silver fitting is simply too small in diameter to work.
I might go get a proper sized fitting with the swivel on it to insert into the turbo to save myself some headaches in the future.


----------



## AlexiGTIVR6 (Jul 21, 2000)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Kinetic is not screwing you, its just IMO having the swivel end on the turbo side just makes the most sense. There realy is no need for the swivel fiiting on the oil filter housing. You could just use a regular 90" fitting on that end too



_Modified by AlexiGTIVR6 at 6:01 PM 1-26-2008_


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (AlexiGTIVR6)*

I went to CT late tonight but it wasn't open so I couldn't get the thread sealer but I did sort out the rest of the nonsense with these oil lines

Undid the 3 13mm bolts on the turbo:









Pulled off the gold piece that makes its way around the turbo









Screwed in the 90* fitting for the oil line and aligned it so it would point forward between the hot and cold side of the turbo









Then bolted it all back up for a test fit. It just barely fits in there even with the god plate off. Kind of stupid design if you ask me but oh well. I'm going to see if I can find a swivel bit and a straight bit like the silver one that will just go right into the turbo.
The clearance even with the plate off is minimal









Now my one question is i have all of these bolts and am trying to figure out what I do with them:









- 4 on the left with the nuts I believe go into the manifold and bolt up the turbo.
- I _THINK_ the two of the large allen bolts are for the oil return flange. They go into the turbo fine but dont go through the flange?
- copper nuts are for bolting up the exhaust manifold to the head. 
- dont know what the other allen bolts are for? 








Once I get all the pieces sorted out I will label a picture so people in the future can just look at it and know what everything is for cause kinetic's booklet is really vague


----------



## giantsock (Feb 6, 2007)

nice man! Keep everyone updated, im thinking about going kinetics Stage 2 ; )


----------



## dtm337 (Jun 11, 2004)

*Re: (Rmills45)*

hmm i had no trouble installing the kinetic kits ....ive done about 6-7 of them ...lol....but i agree the instructions are lame at best ...
as for the dv id go with the samco unit ,,,,,they rock really small and hold my 20 psi no problem ,,,,the apr units are failing alot ,,i blew mine up in a week ,,,


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (dtm337)*

I love the instructions; it's like STEP 1: Remove block and install head spacer. Then reinstall.


----------



## surge1468 (Jun 12, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

how many miles are currently on your engine and did you rebuild it


----------



## neonhor (Jul 28, 2006)

*Re: (surge1468)*


_Quote, originally posted by *surge1468* »_how many miles are currently on your engine

i would also like to know


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (surge1468)*

150,000 KM's...so just shy of 100,000miles.


----------



## surge1468 (Jun 12, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Did you rebuild the engine


----------



## JF1283MK3VR6 (Mar 21, 2007)

There's not a viable reason to rebuild the engine at 100,000 miles based simply on engine wear as the piston rings aren't even typically worn at this sort of mileage. The only reason to justify a rebuild at that point of a VR's life would be to install upgraded parts, i.e. forged pistons, rods, etc.
oh and btw, you have a great thread going here that I will be following closely myself as I will be embarking on a very similar venture with the exception of probably piecing together my own turbo kit http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif keep up the great work...


_Modified by JF1283MK3VR6 at 2:51 PM 1-27-2008_


----------



## surge1468 (Jun 12, 2007)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (nOOb)*

I would also like to know what kind of wheels you have or your vr in the first picture


----------



## stealthmk1 (Aug 17, 2001)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (surge1468)*


_Quote, originally posted by *surge1468* »_I would also like to know what kind of wheels you have or your vr in the first picture

look slike Brock B2s


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (stealthmk1)*

they are 16x8 & 16x9 Brock B2's with 205 & 215 width tires respectivly.


----------



## killerabbitruck (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (nOOb)*

very nice write up, i'll be using this as a reference when i tear my engine apart. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## stealthmk1 (Aug 17, 2001)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (killerabbitruck)*

I know it's a little late now, but I always replace the small green o ring in the upper timing cover. Not sure if you even saw it, but I could see in the pics that it stayed stuck to the cover and you reinstalled it. It's easy to miss, but you should be ok with the old one.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (stealthmk1)*

Bear with me as I cover some of the stuff from yesterday, I am cross posting a lot of this to 2 other forums for the hope it may help someone else out who is stuck when they are doing their stuff so this post might cover some of the stuff already.

*January 26/27, 2008 - Began Playing With Turbo Parts *

So this weekend I decided to take an inventory of all of my turbo parts and begin arranging them into their respective groups and figuring out what goes where. I don't know about other kits but when you get the kinetic kit very few parts are labelled and many of the smaller nuts, bolts and parts are simply put into a big bag and you are expected to figure out what goes where.

So I layed out all the pieces on the table...and at someone's request have labelled all of the parts.

















For those that aren't able to distinguish between the feed and returns on the turbo this should help:

Here is a pic of the *oil feed:*








and *oil return:*








*This is what comes in the OIL RETURN BAG:*
The flange bolts up to the turbo using the two bolts I labelled up top, but you need to drill out the flange slightly as the holes aren't big enough. Apparently during production Kinetic specified the wrong size holes so now they are too small. it's an easy fix however. Place the rubber gasket between the flange and the turbo to ensure no leaks. The other two fitings go into the bung that is welded on the oil pan.









Next up came the *Oil Feed Line* which runs from the oil filter housing to the turbo to supply the oil. As I said there is a little part that must be taken off of the turbo to allow the fitting to go into the turbo properly.

This is the assembley order of the end that attaches to the oil filer housing (once you remove the blue sensor and put the T fitting into the filter housing and then the sensor on the other end of the T)










When you try and screw the other 90* fitting into the turbo you run into the following problem:


















To combat the problem I did the following:
Undid the 3 13mm bolts on the turbo:









Pulled off the gold piece that makes its way around the turbo









Screwed in the 90* fitting for the oil line and aligned it so it would point forward between the hot and cold side of the turbo









Then bolted it all back up for a test fit. It just barely fits in there even with the god plate off. Kind of stupid design if you ask me but oh well. I'm going to see if I can find a swivel bit and a straight bit like the silver one that will just go right into the turbo.
The clearance even with the plate off is minimal









Ideally I would like to get that fitting to face 180* from where it is, so it points forward towards the block when installed, but I can't seem to do that. So I might try and find a swivel fitting to bolt in there.
Next up I installed the MAF into the new 4" housing.
You can see the difference in the size of the stock one and the new 4" MAF housing:

















To undo the MAF in the stock housing you need a special Torx "Anti-Theft" bit. its the standard torx bit with a hole in the middle. I think the size is a T20. I went to Canadian tire and asked the guy if I could just use it quickly to undo something and he opened the case and let me. It came in a kit which was $30 and I really didn't need to buy the whole set just for two little things.









Pulled the MAF out of the stock housing









And installed it in the new one
















Yesterday I also picked up the tranny which has since had the LSD and longer 5th gear installed. Big thanks to George from TuneDUB for the work. You can't really see it, obviously, but pics nonetheless haha. I will be cleaning up the tranny housing over the next week while I wait on the clutch and pressure plate which are on a 10 day order.
























This morning I also swung by Derek's (Ginch) place and picked up some OEM pieces he had for me.
I need to replace a piece of my thermostat housing and the gaskets as it was leaking, so I took apart the stock one and pulled the sensors and T-Stat.
This is the old gross one:









This is the new top half with the sensors:









To undo the old one and get the T-Stat out I undid the 3 5mm allen bolts and carefully pried the two halves apart









Using a flathead screwdriver I carefully lifted out the thermostat inside. There is a large rubber gasket that runs around it to seal it in there, which is a real pain in the ass to get out. Just be careful cause you dont want to break or bend the edges of the T-Stat itself.

























I then pulled out the 3 sensors that are in the housing as well. MK4 owners I believe you only have 1 sensor. Mk3's have these 3. To remove them simply remove the tension clip using a flat head screwdriver and pull them out.

















I will be cleaning up the bottom half of the old one, and reassembling the two halves using some silicone later in the week. Will document that as well as its a good way to stop leaking T-stat housings. And mine seem to leak no matter what I do.
I will be sending the hot side of the turbo, manifold, and downpipe to the ceramic coaters this week, so I had to disassemble the turbo.
This is what the hot side looks like from above:









What you want to do is undo the 13mm black bolts pictured below attached to the *HOT* side


































There is one bolt you wont be able to remove until its the last one as the oil feed area gets in the way. Once all the other bolts are off you can pivot the hot side to allow clearance for removal.









Once all the bolts are out carefully twist and lift the cold side away from the hot side straight up









You will be left with the hot side on the table
















That's it for today. More will come as more parts begin to arrive. Once parts are back from ceramic coating I can assemble all the turbo parts onto the engine in the stand, and once the clutch arrives I can put that in and bolt up the tranny, and then put it all into the car and begin connecting everything else.
Hope this helps others. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif



















_Modified by nOOb at 9:06 PM 1-27-2008_


----------



## killerabbitruck (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (nOOb)*

are you re using the thermostat? i can't tell from your pictures, BUT if you are i'd reccomend getting a new one, it's cheap, it's like reusing an oil filter. Just don't do it, it's apart, it's a maintinence item. IF you already did, then http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (killerabbitruck)*

the T-Stat was almost brand new. I had to replace it last spring due tot he t-stat housing leaking. I threw it in a pot on the stove last night with a turkey thermo in some water and it opened right on 70 like its supposed to.


----------



## JF1283MK3VR6 (Mar 21, 2007)

Did you get the t-stat with the metal impeller? If not I would suggest that even if your current one is practically new.


----------



## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (JF1283MK3VR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JF1283MK3VR6* »_Did you get the t-stat with the metal impeller? If not I would suggest that even if your current one is practically new.

don't you mean waterpump? the t-stat doesn't have an impeller.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (MyCarIsRed)*

Yeah I think he means water pump too. No I didn't. I'll be running the same one as before... if it breaks I fix.


----------



## Cubix (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_the T-Stat was almost brand new. I had to replace it last spring due tot he t-stat housing leaking. I threw it in a pot on the stove last night with a turkey thermo in some water and it opened right on 70 like its supposed to.

I read that as you threw it in a pot *with a turkey*
....This week on cooking with Frau V-Dub


----------



## killerabbitruck (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (Cubix)*

a thermostat is only like $5 and it works great until it goes out, it could work today and fail tomorrow.


----------



## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (killerabbitruck)*


_Quote, originally posted by *killerabbitruck* »_a thermostat is only like $5 and it works great until it goes out, it could work today and fail tomorrow.









low temp is like $8


----------



## Cubix (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (MyCarIsRed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MyCarIsRed* »_
low temp is like $8









Overheating on the highway: Priceless


----------



## Wish it was a DE (Nov 15, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

they taped the chip to the inside of the MAF housing when they sent it to you?


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (JazzBlue98DEVR6GTI)*

yes. in a small ziploc bag. No anti-static bag or anything.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (killerabbitruck)*

As I said its basicalyl new. I'm gonna bet yours has more miles on mine...are you replacing your t-stat twice a year?
The one in there was replaced less than 3000miles ago with a quality part. I doubled check to make sure it was working, as it was when it was still in the car.
If it was the stock one with 150,000km's on it yeah i would be replacing


----------



## killerabbitruck (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (nOOb)*

i'm rebuilding mine and i'm replacing my thermostat, it's worth $8 to me to not have to tear it apart 3000 miles sooner, and pay for coolant again, and get coolant all over my car. Plus i have peice of mind that it's brand new. I mean i'd pay $8 to skip the whole heating a pot of water on the stove checking the temperature and tossing in my thermostat then cleaning up the mess afterwards. But that's just me.








Your build is looking sweet, can't wait to see it done. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (MyCarIsRed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MyCarIsRed* »_
low temp is like $8









i'm pulling my low temp out. my car runs too cold now. it sucks.


----------



## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (TBT-Syncro)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TBT-Syncro* »_
i'm pulling my low temp out. my car runs too cold now. it sucks.

you may have the first vr in history to have that "problem".


----------



## Cubix (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (MyCarIsRed)*

Low temp thermos and really cold weather don't mix
He lives up in Vancouver so I believe it. Even some people around here (PA/NJ) have had problems.
Of course, not so much anymore now with global warming and the fact we don't even get snow anymore


----------



## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (Cubix)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cubix* »_Low temp thermos and really cold weather don't mix
He lives up in Vancouver so I believe it. Even some people around here (PA/NJ) have had problems.
Of course, not so much anymore now with global warming and the fact we don't even get snow anymore

global warming is a myth!








honestly though... the seasons have just been getting later and later the last few years. last year we didn't get a spot of snow until january and it was still snowing come late april... this year i've got my fingers crossed for snow on my birthday in july! woohoo!
sorry to hijack the thread and turn it into a weather discussion... i'm done


----------



## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (Cubix)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cubix* »_Low temp thermos and really cold weather don't mix
He lives up in Vancouver so I believe it. Even some people around here (PA/NJ) have had problems.


cold weather? vancouver ? you obviously failed geography. lol
the majority of my recent driving of my car (where it was running too cold) was in the teens or higher (celcius).
I also have thousands of miles in summer heat with a VR turbo with a low temp, it sucked as well. 
If your car is overheating, then you have the wrong rad, or a cooling problem. tricking your car to run a lower temp, is a band-aid not a proper fix.


----------



## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (TBT-Syncro)*

now back to Rondal's regularly scheduled programming.


----------



## surge1468 (Jun 12, 2007)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (TBT-Syncro)*

Noob I was wondering what kind of suspention you have on your vr and im am looking for suggestions on weather i should go coilovers or shocks and struts on lowering springs


----------



## stealthmk1 (Aug 17, 2001)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (TBT-Syncro)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TBT-Syncro* »_

If your car is overheating, then you have the wrong rad, or a cooling problem. tricking your car to run a lower temp, is a band-aid not a proper fix.

x2


----------



## stealthmk1 (Aug 17, 2001)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (stealthmk1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stealthmk1* »_I know it's a little late now, but I always replace the small green o ring in the upper timing cover. Not sure if you even saw it, but I could see in the pics that it stayed stuck to the cover and you reinstalled it. It's easy to miss, but you should be ok with the old one.

so did you replace it, or just put the old one back?


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (surge1468)*

Suspension package includes:
KW Coilovers
Neuspeed Front 25mm & Rear 28mm Sway Bars
OMP Upper Strut Bar
It handles like a rocket ship on rails.
I dont really want to get into the coilver vs spring shock combo debat ein here, there is another section of this forum for that. I know what I have, and it works unbelievably well and carves through the turns with amazing abilities.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: the nOOb's project Turbo VR...updated Dec 2, 2007 (nOOb)*

dropped off parts with the ceramic coaters yesterday, should be back sometime mid next week. Will be titanium grey in color as that was the only one they had that could withstand 2000* temperatures.
Not that I plan on ever hitting that but its nice to know if something went wrong it could take it.


----------



## bansheelos (Nov 29, 2004)

Hot ish!


----------



## JF1283MK3VR6 (Mar 21, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

That is exactly what I was referring to, thanks for the correction







(hey sometimes even us techs use the wrong terms when describing something







)


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (JF1283MK3VR6)*

uggghhhhh company i was getting clutch from facked up their order so now its on back order. that puts a bit of a stop to everything til i get this sorted out.
still waiting on manifold and ceramics too.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

clutch and turbo parts all get picked up tomorrow...intake arrived last weekend but i;ve been too busy to do anything. engine COULD go in as early as sunday afternoon.


----------



## louisvanwilker (Dec 30, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

your bassicly...my hero http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (louisvanwilker)*

Picture Update: Feb 9, 2008
Picked up all sorts of Parts.

Intake finally arrived (thanks Alexi), got the stuff back from the ceramic coaters, and clutch finally came in. *Engine could go in as early as tomorrow* depending on what goes on as I have been swamped with work and have stuff I need to finish before Monday.
The goodies:
Intake-

















The Turbo Parts that were ceramic coated - 

















The new ACT heavy duty clutch and pressure plate
















You will remember I plan to keep this as streetable as possible hence the solid disc clutch. If I burn through it and it slips...so be it. I replace it next winter. I really didn't want to need a steel leg to deal with a 6 puck disc in traffic, and while I am aware there are sprung 6 puck discs no where had them under $600. Got the ACT overnighted from California for $400, and after speaking with Shawn at MMP he recommended it.


----------



## Roadhog_ (Feb 26, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

nice parts







... But how will the turbo fit back together right if you ceramic coated the inside?


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (Roadhog_)*

it's already back together and spins fine.


----------



## procket2_8 (Feb 19, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*

lookin good man...you excited yet??


----------



## AlexiGTIVR6 (Jul 21, 2000)

*Re: (procket2_8)*

now that you got the parts get to work


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (AlexiGTIVR6)*

I am excited. Basically all that is left still to order is an oil cooler and intercooler. 
I'm excited that the engine may get back into the car tomorrow. Will definetly go a lot quicker once that happens as right now there is only so much that can be done.
I still need to install the new oilpan as well before it goes back into the engine bay.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

turbo is back together after a little sanding to get some of the coating off the seating areas as it was not allowing it to seat properly, i didn't notice it at first, but when i looked at the impeller it wasn't sitting dead straight in. took some 200grit just to the area where the cup of the turbo was and it sorted it right out, easy fix:









Also buffed up the flywheel to take the glaze off of it so it will bite properly:


----------



## keychain12 (Aug 17, 2003)

looking good, and nice pictures.
I'm doing the same thing, errr...minus the forced induction haha.


----------



## stealthmk1 (Aug 17, 2001)

*Re: (keychain12)*

When I get my parts coated, I will not be having the insides of anything done. God forbid a piece flakes off and goes through the turbine.


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (stealthmk1)*

What shop would actually coat the inside surfaces of a turbo housing?


----------



## TallaiMan (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_What shop would actually coat the inside surfaces of a turbo housing?























x2


----------



## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

*Re: (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_What shop would actually coat the inside surfaces of a turbo housing?























one that knows what they're doing. 
thats the proper way to ceramic coat the metal.
in fact its more important to have it on the inside, than it is on the outside.


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (TBT-Syncro)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TBT-Syncro* »_
one that knows what they're doing. 
thats the proper way to ceramic coat the metal.
in fact its more important to have it on the inside, than it is on the outside.



















And what about tolerances?


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

there was no issues with turbine clearances, just how it seated inside the center section was a little bit iffy. the bigger pain was the fact they did the ****ING threads on the exahust manifold. Made for a painful afternoon.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

*February 10th, 2008 - Turbo Bits go together like LEGO*
So with all the pieces to the puzzle finally present, minus the intercooler and a few other minor things that can be bolted on later the fun began....putting it all back together.

I still had to switch the oilpans, as the stock one was still on there, so we turned the engine 90* in the stand to make life a little easier than crawling around on the ground and undid all the bolts and swapped it out. One was being a real piece of $hit so we were forced to hammer a 12 point bit into it and wrench it out. Gonna have to go grab a new one from the dealer tomorrow.
Old pan still on the block:









Once we removed the pan:








New pan installed and torqued down properly:








.
.
.
At this time it is very easy to also install the oil return line fitting that bolts into the oilpan here:








.
.
.
Put some permatex high temp thread sealer on the last few threads being careful not to get any near the leading edge as it can mess up the lines and cause oil starvation to the turbo, i know this is a retrun line but i was still careful.








.
.
.
Spun the engine back around to the normal position, spun the stand round so we had access to the side the clutch bolts on so we could begin doing that.








.
.
First we aligned the flywheel








.
.
Then bolted it up using NEW bolts. They are stretch bolts so you must replace these everytime.








.
.
Little trick to stop the flywheel from spinning while you torque it down properly.








.
.
Next up using the clutch guide to ensure it was on straight we mount the new ACT VR1-HDMM clutch








.
.
And then fitted on the heavy duty pressure plate. Its sick that its yellow...too bad you will never see it haha.








.
.
And then bolted it up.
























.
.
.
Was now time to get the engine out of the stand and back into the lift








.
.
Random action shot of graeme haha








.
.
With the stand out of the way I could now bolt up the manifold which was impossible due to the stands mounting plate being in the way before








.
.
Put on the new exhaust manifold gaskets








.
.
Followed by the manifold








.








.








.
.
.
Next up we bolted up the Tial Wastegate. Tip for those doing this, you actually seem to need a small washer to get it to fit properly. The stock bolts are too long and will push into the end of their holes in the manifold. We found some spare ones kicking around and it tightend up great








.








.








.
.
.
Then I bolted up the turbo, this was a serious pain in the ass because the ceramic coaters got coating on the threads, so one bolt got [email protected] up and i gotta get a new one.








.








.
.
.
Next up we hooked up the wastegate dump pipe








.








.
.
.
And then bolted up the 3" DP. Im not using a gasket in here, as many others have found they just keep getting destroyed. 








.








.








.
.
.
Then bolted the dump pipe to the downpipe using the supplied clamp








.
.
.
Next up was intalling the oil return flange and line to the turbo








.








.








.








.
.
.
It helps to install the tranny mount piece now so you can see where you can run your line. We found we had too much return line and had to cut about 3" off of it.








.
.
We were able to get the oil return line on this far, but it will not for the life of it go any further. Any tips? i tried putting oil on the leading edge of the hose and the nozzle but it doesn't make a difference.








.
.
.
Next we replaced the release bearing in the transmission with the one that came with my clutch kit.








.
.
Is this the proper way it is supposed to go in the tranny, or does it need to be flipped around?








.
.
.
.
This is how it is left at the moment, it was getting late, I had hockey earlier and an early morning meeting tomorrow, plus I need to replace a few bolts before the engine goes in and it becomes a real pain in the ass to do them.








.
.
.
My parts table has emptied out quite quickly tho, only a few things to do, including the new fuel pump, injectors, spark plugs, and a few other bits.
Tomorrow the transmission will bolt up and the engine will go into the car once the few things that slowed us down today are sorted out.
If someone can confirm the release bearing in the tranny, as well as an idea for how to get that hose all the way down, we can then move on.
Cheers.


----------



## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*

i hope you arent serious about the clutch fork hahaa. as for the hose, use lots of lube, maybe even heat. got to go ape **** on it. that hose looks kinda ****ty. id def watch axle clearance.


_Modified by bonesaw at 2:11 AM 2-11-2008_


----------



## LISTO14 (Dec 20, 2007)

*Re: (TBT-Syncro)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## killerabbitruck (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: (LISTO14)*

your release bearing goes on the other side of the clutch fork. and the fork flips around the other way. The dimple with the spring attaches to the little nipple at the bottom, and the dimple with no spring goes at the top facing the slave cylinder pushrod. The bearing goes on the other side of the fork. with the fixed side of the bearing touching the fork and the spinning part of the bearing facing the pressure plate. ALSO the pressure plate bolts are "replace" items aswell. Where is your Bentley?

EDIT: Send me your exhaust mani and turbo i'll clean up all the threads and make sure it bolts together smoothly.







It's no big deal, i'll do it for free, i'll even pay shipping, i'm just that nice of a guy.



_Modified by killerabbitruck at 11:42 PM 2-10-2008_


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (killerabbitruck)*

Yes we replaced the bolts on the pressure plate as well...forgot to mention that sorry. they were all new bolts.
Bentley is sitting in my cart getting oily haha.
Found this...shoulda looked at it first. 








its been a long day haha.
look you can even see my bentley in the background haha








_Modified by nOOb at 11:47 PM 2-10-2008_


_Modified by nOOb at 11:48 PM 2-10-2008_


----------



## killerabbitruck (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: (nOOb)*

that looks and sounds better http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif from who are you buying all your parts? bolts, flywheel, clutch, turbo kit?


----------



## AlexiGTIVR6 (Jul 21, 2000)

*Re: (killerabbitruck)*


_Quote, originally posted by *killerabbitruck* »_that looks and sounds better http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif from who are you buying all your parts? turbo kit?

its from Kinetic


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (AlexiGTIVR6)*

turbo kit is kinetic, clutch/PP is from ACT, then some stuff from others who have had/have VRT's and have upgraded or parted them out. Majority of it was Kinetic.
Oil cooler and some other stuff will be coming from MMP.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

*February 11th, 2008 - We Shall call it E-DAY...cause you know what happens*
Well after last night's work there was only a few small things left to do before the you know what had to occur.
.
.
.
So I decided to finally change my water-pump. People have been saying do it and I've been lazy, so i finally went and got one with the metal impeller today. So we tossed it on...stock pulley is on there damn tight, VW must use superglue from the factory.
.








.
.
Goes on here
.








.








.
.
.
Stock one was on so tight I ended up breaking the impeller trying to get the bolts off in the vice...oh well...they were gonna break sometime.
.








.
.
.
.
Threw on a new serpentine belt as well before it went into the car, much easier to do out of the car than in.
.








.
.
.
.
Threw the engine back into the hoist in the middle of the garage and got ready to mount the transmission.
.








.
.








.
.
.
.
Properly installed the shift fork in the bell housing
.








.
.
.
And then mounted it up onto the rest of the engine
.








.








.
.
.
I also installed the starter at this time into the transmission
.








.
.
With that done we gapped the spark plugs to 0.28" as was mentioned previously in the thread
.








.








.
.
.
And got everything tidied up before going back in
.








.








.
.
.
.
.
.
And so the last big lift finally began
.








.








.
.
We had to take the cold side of the turbo off as it was hitting the strut bar. Remove one or the other or it wont go in easily. Also if possible have someone guiding the DP. Mine got caught on the heat shield and had to be pulled back before going in properly.
.








.
.
.
One the front was down we bolted it in so it wouldn't move, makes getting the rears a little easier when one point of the triangle is fixed.
.
.








.
.
.
.
And then lowered 'er in the rest of the way
.








.
.
.
.
.
To achieve a nice final result:
.
.








.








.
.








.
.
.
.
.
.
And just cause i wanted to see what it would look like i bolted this up temporarily.
.
.









We called it a night after that....got hockey in an hour and need to sort out some other stuff. Glad to finally have the engine back in its home. It looks good.

























































time for a


----------



## u01rwr (Mar 6, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Looking good http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (u01rwr)*

thanks.


----------



## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Lookin good man.


----------



## atdivdub (Oct 12, 2006)

*Re: (root beer)*

awesome thread


----------



## soo euro (Nov 19, 2004)

*Re: (atdivdub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *atdivdub* »_awesome thread
X2


----------



## VR6TUNER (May 2, 2000)

*Re: (soo euro)*

I love this thread! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## francocorrado (Nov 23, 2004)

You're gonna have fun getting that axle onto the diff flanges


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (francocorrado)*

i dont doubt it. i'm also gonna have to flip the start over as i installed it upside down hahaa. only noticed it when someone point it out from the photos.


----------



## Roadhog_ (Feb 26, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_i dont doubt it. i'm also gonna have to flip the start over as i installed it upside down hahaa. only noticed it when someone point it out from the photos.









I was wondering when you were going to notice that.


----------



## francocorrado (Nov 23, 2004)

You can't get the axles past the rear subframe if the engine's in. You're either gonna have to lift the engine up again or take off your ball joints, tie rods, suspension blah blah. Sorry homie, that sucks.
Good build! Nice to see someone document this **** for once


----------



## Roadhog_ (Feb 26, 2007)

*Re: (francocorrado)*

Why are your studs bent on the exhaust manifold?


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (Roadhog_)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Roadhog_* »_Why are your studs bent on the exhaust manifold?


we dont know if it was when we were torquing them down or what. i had noticed that as well, and i did check to ensure that it had sealed properly the whole way round. i think they bent when they were being tightend.


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

I can't see why that would happen unless something weren't straight or the holes and studs didn't line up perfectly. Hopefully there won't be any leaks.


----------



## Roadhog_ (Feb 26, 2007)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

are you sure you didn't pull them out of the head? It's just soft aluminum and very easy to do.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (Roadhog_)*

i dont know how that would have happend.


----------



## billiethebutcher (Sep 24, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

thanks nOOb, because of you im gonna spend a few thousand and build my engine and buy a turbo.








hurry the F up and finish it! 
on a side note you may wanna replace those exhaust manifold studs, better be safe than sorry. good luck http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (billiethebutcher)*

i'll have the guy doing my IC plumbing look at them, he has a shop and knows these engines in depth. if he feels they need to be replaced so be it. It would mean removing the head and sending it to a machine shop however which will be a royal [email protected] pain.


----------



## billiethebutcher (Sep 24, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_i'll have the guy doing my IC plumbing look at them, he has a shop and knows these engines in depth. if he feels they need to be replaced so be it. It would mean removing the head and sending it to a machine shop however which will be a royal [email protected] pain. 

F that. hit it with a hammer, paint it blue and call it new. then paint it black and put it back.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (francocorrado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *francocorrado* »_You can't get the axles past the rear subframe if the engine's in. You're either gonna have to lift the engine up again or take off your ball joints, tie rods, suspension blah blah. Sorry homie, that sucks.
Good build! Nice to see someone document this **** for once

how high does it need to come up? its not hard to hook the hoist back up to it, but im wondering if i can just loosen off the mount bolts slightly to give the engine a little bit of play without releasing them completely


----------



## AlexiGTIVR6 (Jul 21, 2000)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_ It would mean removing the head and sending it to a machine shop however which will be a royal [email protected] pain. 

Hey Rondal, You don't need to remove the head to change the exhaust mani studs. If the bend is after the manifold then you should be able to swap the top ones with the manifold on the car if not then you'll need to remove the manifold. If the bottom studs are bent too then for sure the manifold has to come off. Just weird how that happened. 
Did the manifold slid on easy? 
For the axles you can just remove the ball joint's upper bolt (will not mess with alignment) and swing out the knuckle with everything else attached and you can get the axles cups attached no prob. 


_Modified by AlexiGTIVR6 at 1:08 AM 2-14-2008_


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

*Re: (AlexiGTIVR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AlexiGTIVR6* »_
For the axles you can just remove the ball joint's upper bolt (will not mess with alignment) and swing out the knuckle with everything else attached and you can get the axles cups attached no prob. 


The pass side still won't clear the oil pan unless it's an aftermarket solid tube axle. You need to remove the front motor mount bolt and jack the motor up for the axle to get past the pan and control arm bolt.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (need_a_VR6)*

the manifold slid on with no issues whatsoever, which is why i think they ends just ebnt during the torquing process. i'd wager a guess its just the ends of them that are bent not the entire thing as it slid on with no fuss at all.
i can easily hook the picker back up, it takes 2 seconds to do. Can I get away with just lifting the front of the engine up or do the rear and tranny mounts need to come off as well? I'm sure I will figure this out when I get a chance to get under there but having a game plan makes it a little easier.
My Mason-Tech Billet crackpipe arrived yesterday afternoon, and I ordered up the oil cooler from MMP. Waiting on Kinetic to call me back so i can order my Garret Intercooler core as apparently they take 2-3 weeks to bring in.








Other than that not much has changed.
Is it possible to run IC plumbing from the passenger side where it would come off the FMIC under the car and up to the cold side of the turbo? I dont have everything on so it's kinda hard to tell if it would work.
It does look pretty tight coming up the back with the 3" DP, but barring that I would hope I can just clock the turbo dowards and run it under the car to the passenger side, then from the FMIC come out off the drivers side, up through that hole between the fender and subframe and down and around into the intake. Because I would like to keep A/C i pretty much have to go this way.


----------



## sc_rufctr (Jun 28, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

If you have any doubt?... Pull the motor out. 
You will not regret doing that to check the manifold studs...
What is your peace of mind worth?
Come on due. You have worked so hard to get this far. Even the pros do this when required.


----------



## shortshiften (Mar 29, 2005)

even if they bent during TQ process, they still could have pulled the studs right out of the head which means you might be bale to get away with tapping them over ifd not helicoil them..... and yes that would suck if you had to take the head off again and retime it and all that junk 
also what did you TQ the nuts to?? did you do it in an even sequence??


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_
i can easily hook the picker back up, it takes 2 seconds to do. Can I get away with just lifting the front of the engine up or do the rear and tranny mounts need to come off as well? I'm sure I will figure this out when I get a chance to get under there but having a game plan makes it a little easier.

I usually just remove the front mount bolt from the top and then jack the motor up from just under the mount bracket. The hoist won't work as well as it'll try and pick things up from the center, you actually want to tilt it for clearance.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (need_a_VR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *need_a_VR6* »_
I usually just remove the front mount bolt from the top and then jack the motor up from just under the mount bracket. The hoist won't work as well as it'll try and pick things up from the center, you actually want to tilt it for clearance. 


that makes things super easy then. prolly will get around to it this weekend.


----------



## AlexiGTIVR6 (Jul 21, 2000)

*Re: (need_a_VR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *need_a_VR6* »_
The pass side still won't clear the oil pan unless it's an aftermarket solid tube axle. You need to remove the front motor mount bolt and jack the motor up for the axle to get past the pan and control arm bolt.

Correct. I didnt see the pic with the engine in, and the axle hanging that low still. Rondal has too many pics


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (AlexiGTIVR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AlexiGTIVR6* »_
Correct. I didnt see the pic with the engine in, and the axle hanging that low still. Rondal has too many pics









quiet you.
a real build thread doesn't just have pictures of your car before and your car after


----------



## vr604 (Feb 19, 2003)

It kind of looks like the holes in the exh. manifold are almost the same size as the washer for the nut. The washer may have cocked itself in the hole and when you tightened it, the studs bent.
You should maybe try taking a couple of nuts off to investigate, still easy to do with the motor sitting in the bay. Its possible the washers were to small the exh. manifold


_Modified by vr604 at 6:15 PM 2-14-2008_


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (vr604)*

good call phil i will take a look tomorrow.


----------



## 708VR6 (May 20, 2006)

*Re: (francocorrado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *francocorrado* »_
Good build! Nice to see someone document this **** for once

guess you never saw the post from savage motorsports I think it was called from like a year and half ago or so with the ginster gti?, more or less along the same lines as this build...If i still have the link I'll post it up


_Modified by 708VR6 at 12:25 PM 2-15-2008_


----------



## allmotorVR98 (Nov 13, 2007)

*Re: (708VR6)*

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2678350


----------



## 708VR6 (May 20, 2006)

*Re: (allmotorVR98)*

thats the one http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (708VR6)*

jesus that one build is insane, that guy easily must have 15G's into his build already. wow.
i just didn't have that kind of coin to throw at my car.


----------



## 708VR6 (May 20, 2006)

*Re: (nOOb)*

yours is still a very nice build-up nonetheless http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## AlexiGTIVR6 (Jul 21, 2000)

*Re: (francocorrado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *francocorrado* »_
Good build! Nice to see someone document this **** for once

Yup http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Rondal 
However they're quite a few detail builds on the text over the years. Just need to search for them


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (AlexiGTIVR6)*

Alright back to the task at hand, IC plumbing. How tight is it gonna be going down the back of the block and over to the passenger side to enter the FMIC? It looks pretty tight but without everything together yet I can't tell how bad it will be.
I'm also worried about heat from the DP superheating the charge pipe. Is this a concern or will be charge pipe already be about the same temp just from the compressed air? I could always i guess ceramic coat or powder coat part of a section of the charge pipe that will run by that area.
Any ideas?


----------



## AlexiGTIVR6 (Jul 21, 2000)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_Alright back to the task at hand, IC plumbing. How tight is it gonna be going down the back of the block and over to the passenger side to enter the FMIC? It looks pretty tight but without everything together yet I can't tell how bad it will be.
I'm also worried about heat from the DP superheating the charge pipe. Is this a concern or will be charge pipe already be about the same temp just from the compressed air? I could always i guess ceramic coat or powder coat part of a section of the charge pipe that will run by that area.
Any ideas?

It will fit fine. Thats exactly how Kinetic runs their pipe from the turbo. If you wanted you could run an off the shelf Kinetic state 2/3 pipe if you wanted.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (AlexiGTIVR6)*

it wont work with the manifold you sent me, but thanks for pointing that out lexi. I didn't know with the 3" DP if things got a little crammed back there. 
I might make this manifold work afterall.
Post up a pic of the bracket you made for the TB on your SRI, i am interested to see what I actually need to make.


----------



## AlexiGTIVR6 (Jul 21, 2000)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_it wont work with the manifold you sent me, but thanks for pointing that out lexi. I didn't know with the 3" DP if things got a little crammed back there. 
I might make this manifold work afterall.
Post up a pic of the bracket you made for the TB on your SRI, i am interested to see what I actually need to make.

Your SRI manifold will not prevent the kinetic stg2/3 turbo to intercooler pipe from working. it would work if you wanted to route it that way
My custom pipe with lots of room back there









You just need to modify the stock throttle cable bracket and tap your TB to bolt it on








You could use the stock Kinetic plumbing to the intercooler then just have to make a a pipe similar to vr6 nitrous (sweden) from the FMIC to the TB. You wouldnt have any AC problems this way. You could even save more fab time by just using the kinetic intercooler too.









_Modified by AlexiGTIVR6 at 4:05 PM 2-15-2008_


_Modified by AlexiGTIVR6 at 6:35 PM 2-15-2008_


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (AlexiGTIVR6)*

i asked for pics of the throttle body bit for the cable. not pics we have already discussed on msn. geeeez. bloody greeks.....


----------



## AlexiGTIVR6 (Jul 21, 2000)

*Re: (nOOb)*

If you look closer you can see my TB cable bracket in one of the pics


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (AlexiGTIVR6)*

yeah i need an actual close up tho.
i wanna build it up today


----------



## AlexiGTIVR6 (Jul 21, 2000)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_yeah i need an actual close up tho.
i wanna build it up today

Since your to lazy to look at my old post here you go


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (AlexiGTIVR6)*

where'd the black plate come from?


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

mk4 2L throttle cable bracket?


----------



## AlexiGTIVR6 (Jul 21, 2000)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Rondal the TB cable bracket is a modified stock VR6 bracket. 
To repeat what i did you need to pull the brass coolant line fittings from your TB and tap the hole. I think a M8 tap was the sized needed. 
I then used one original mounting hole in the stock bracket and drilled a new hole to match the distance with the 2 taped holes in your TB. Now you take 2 bolts and bolt then together.







I also might have cut the excess metal from the bracket as to why it looks different










_Modified by AlexiGTIVR6 at 11:53 PM 2-17-2008_


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (AlexiGTIVR6)*

so you dont use the coolant lines anymore then that go into the TB?


----------



## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*

alot of people with stock cars remove the coolant to the throttle body. all it is, is annoying.


----------



## VRClownCar (Apr 8, 2001)

*Re: (bonesaw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bonesaw* »_alot of people with stock cars remove the coolant to the throttle body. all it is, is annoying.

pretty much . . they are meant to keep the TB from freezing in really cold temps.


----------



## stealthmk1 (Aug 17, 2001)

*Re: (VRClownCar)*

Regarding the Wagner manifolds: I know you need to drill and tap for the fuel rail and TB, but are the injector bungs already correctly machined?
and where are you guys picking these up, ebay.de?


----------



## AlexiGTIVR6 (Jul 21, 2000)

*Re: (stealthmk1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stealthmk1* »_Regarding the Wagner manifolds: I know you need to drill and tap for the fuel rail and TB, but are the injector bungs already correctly machined?
and where are you guys picking these up, ebay.de?

Injector bungs came machined.
Im persoanal friends with Carsten from Wagner so i bought a few of these direct and then sold them to a few friends over here


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (bonesaw)*

do you need to plug any lines up then that would otherwise pass coolant through them from either the reservoir or the engine?


----------



## stealthmk1 (Aug 17, 2001)

*Re: (AlexiGTIVR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AlexiGTIVR6* »_
Im persoanal friends with Carsten from Wagner so i bought a few of these direct and then sold them to a few friends over here

any chance you'll do this again?


----------



## AlexiGTIVR6 (Jul 21, 2000)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_do you need to plug any lines up then that would otherwise pass coolant through them from either the reservoir or the engine?

On my car i have my lines feeding my turbo. You can just hook the two together just like it when people do the TB line bypass.


----------



## dossantos25 (Mar 18, 2005)

*Re: (VRClownCar)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VRClownCar* »_
pretty much . . they are meant to keep the TB from freezing in really cold temps. 

its actually to keep the coil in the TB from getting too hot, in freezing cold temps the coolant would be cold as well... the lines are to keep the coil and a uniform heat, so that it will work properly when it gets warms, VRs when cold might not have the greatest throttle response due to the coil being cold....


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (AlexiGTIVR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AlexiGTIVR6* »_
On my car i have my lines feeding my turbo. You can just hook the two together just like it when people do the TB line bypass. 

Thanks Lex.

Who knows how to bleed the hydraulic clutches on the VR? gonna try and do mine tomorrow but have no idea what I'm doing hahaha.


----------



## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*

same way you to brakes.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (bonesaw)*

sweet. i'm gonna leave that til the end when my TT brakes are finally ordered and arrive.


----------



## stealthmk1 (Aug 17, 2001)

*Re: (bonesaw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bonesaw* »_same way you to brakes.

not always necessary, sometimes you can gravity bleed them.


----------



## Mtrboatvr (Aug 24, 2007)

The TT 12.3's with good pads are awesome. I have used them for years in autoX and daily driving and still not a sqeek or complaint.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (Mtrboatvr)*

yeah i just gotta find out if they will fit in my 16" Brock B2's. i think it's gonna be tight.


----------



## Jettin2Class (Jun 26, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

I think you should be OK there. I ran 12.3 TT brakes under 16" ASA's that tapered in towards the center of the barrel and they were alright. You may be able to buy some room with a ~5mm spacer or so. 
Looking good so far. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Mtrboatvr (Aug 24, 2007)

My TT's fit under stock VR6 16'' if that helps you any.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (Mtrboatvr)*

haha not really. i need to find someone who is running 16" Brock B2's as they have a fairly thick spoke.


----------



## Wish it was a DE (Nov 15, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

so hows the build coming, you making any progress i haven't seen any new picture posts, we are all eager to see a video of this thing fire up and burn some rubber.


----------



## geoj (Nov 6, 2006)

*Re: (JazzBlue98DEVR6GTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JazzBlue98DEVR6GTI* »_so hows the build coming, you making any progress i haven't seen any new picture posts, we are all eager to see a video of this thing fire up and burn some rubber.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (Vee_Reihen_Driver)*

im waiting on oil cooler so that I can mount it and then test fit the throttle body to the SRI and see when everything is hooked up how much room I do in fact have to work with w.r.t. the AC and its lines.
Oil stuff should arrive on tuesday or wednesday of next week. Today I am most likely going to try and make up that throttle cable bracket for the TB and tap the holes, as well as begin sanding down the SRI and beginning the polishing stage.
Once the final parts arrive I can then put everything back together and hook it all up. Then begin measuring for the intercooler core that was ordered last week. Garret 22"x10"x2.3" core with custom end tanks and piping.


----------



## mynameisroro (Feb 7, 2008)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Glad to see it coming together n00b. Which SRI are you using?
And does anybody know what intercooler comes with Kinetic's Stage II?


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (mynameisroro)*

my fingers hurt. im going in search of an airpowered sander with a small 2" pad.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Tried getting some odds and ends done today, wasn't able to make nearly the amount of progress i wanted.
Went through the bolt box and bolted up a few things, and dug up a few things I had forgotten about. Threw in the Cam Position Sensor, and dug out the coilpack and stuff.








Biggest thing I wanted to do today was to get the axles in place. They are sitting too far forward and basically have to be tucked up behind the oilpan and tranny so that they will be in the right location to be bolted up.
So got things in the familiar position....









But 3 hours later, lots of swearing, bruised hand, and pinched finger later....zero progress has been made on that front.
I did flip the starter around. Good thing I went and checked this because the bolts were finger tight, must have been in a rush when we put it on the first time we didn't torgue it down. I will be going over everything, but it was a good reminder.









Also replaced all the parts on the thermostat housing and sealed it up so it wasn't ever gonna leak again. 








.
.
.
.
Little bit of permatex gasket maker...








.
.
.
Voila'








That thing wont be leaking anytime soon...and if it does the whole unit is going in the trash and its getting cemented up. I was careful not to get any on the area that touched the o-ring, but the outer edge of that lip and the rest of the way round has a nice seal to it. Need to swing by the dealership and get some new sensors and gaskets tomorrow and I will throw it on and add it to this...








.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
The other thing I tried figuring out is this damn throttle cable bracket, Alexi maybe you can shed some light on this:








.
.








.
.








.
.








.
.








.
.








.
.








.
.
.
.
.
How do I pull those coolant lines out of the throttle body? And then i assume I am tapping both of them, and then drilling out the stock cable bracket to fit? 
Does any modification have to be done to the frost plug that is in there? What do I do with the two lines that originally had the coolant? I have heard there is a recirc modification some do but I wasn't able to find anything on it.
Any info on that would be appreciated.
.
.
.
.
.
Also when deleting the stock heat exchanger/oil cooler and running a mocal thermostatic plate and external oil cooler can someone give me some pointers here. I know the stock heat exchanger gets removed and the thermostatic plate gets bolted up. It will have two fittings on it, I assume one is oil feed and the other oil return, sending oil to the cooler. What happend with both of the stock rubber hoses here?
One I know gets deleted because it goes from the stock crack pipe to the heat exchanger, so that one can be removed. But what happens with the other? does it get removed? If so what do you use to plug the hole in the block? If it gets kept where on the plate does it hook up to?
.
.








.
.








.
.
.
.
.
Will likely have some better updates tomorrow as the axles go in properly and a few more things can then be bolted up once I know i dont have to worry about getting the jack and hoist back in there.


----------



## u01rwr (Mar 6, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_What happend with both of the stock rubber hoses here?
One I know gets deleted because it goes from the stock crack pipe to the heat exchanger, so that one can be removed. But what happens with the other? does it get removed? If so what do you use to plug the hole in the block? If it gets kept where on the plate does it hook up to?

can't you just attach the hose from the block directly to the crack pipe










_Modified by u01rwr at 12:58 AM 2-25-2008_


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (u01rwr)*

i dunno...can you?
i thought the whole point of the second bung that came with the crack pipe was to delete the nipple and not have to worry about coolant anymore?


----------



## elements757 (Sep 24, 2005)

Nice IBM, T60? If so I have the same one








I think its destiny for me to do a vrt also


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (elements757)*

yeah its my work laptop.


----------



## BumblebVR6 (Nov 22, 2001)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_










Your front mount should have the the two "fingers" in the groove on the front mount bracket.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

i was wondering wtf those were for, aside from catching shirts and jean pockets on. It's an easy move and the engine is in the air at the moment awaiting the axles to be tucked in properly. Thanks for pointing that out.


----------



## JF1283MK3VR6 (Mar 21, 2007)

i was wondering wtf those were for, aside from catching shirts and jean pockets on. 
lol 
what wheel offset are your brock b2's noob?


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (JF1283MK3VR6)*

*February 25th, 2008 - It's beginning to look like a VR again*
.
.
.
.
Biggest job today was to get the axles in place, they have been pissing me off sitting in the wrong place, and the knowledge and fear that I might have to pull the engine up to seat them properly has stopped me from bolting a bunch of other stuff up that needs the engine sitting in place first.
.
So first up was getting that job done. Had to remove the knucles to allow the amount of play needed to get them into place, rather than yanking the whole engine out again. 
.
.








.
.
Once they were in the right position it was time to lube up.
.
















.
.
Packed the cups full of axle grease and then tightend them into place. Nice and messy job, helps to have a second set of hands to hold things out of the way and then rotate the axle round for you while you tighten things up. Still need to torque them *Mental Note*
.
.








.








.








.
.
.
Because we had to undo the front mount to get enough play to move things into the right place I took the opportunity to undo the front mount and spin it around into the proper position. Apparently the little tabs on the mount have to point backwards. So i sorted that out. (see i am listening when you say something ain't right)
.








.
.
.
Double checked the orientation of the thermostat in the housing, and then put all the gaskets into place and bolted in the lower flange that attaches to the crack pipe
.








.
.
Next bolted up the coilpack into place,
.








.
.
.
Followed by the auxillary waterpump, and all the bits that went along with it, including the connection for the main part of the wiring harness.
.








.
.
With that bolted up there were a few bits that don't have a home anymore, one of them is this grounding wire and sensors. Originally it would have bolted up to the intake manifold, now I'm wonder where it needs to be bolted to??
.








.
.
.
At this point we broke out the laptop with all the photos so we could see where certain things were pre-turbo build.
.








It's amazing how helpful having detailed pictures of everything can be. Really makes life a hell of a lot easier.
.
.
.
Next I installed the sensors into the thermostat housing, lubed all the o-rings up with some oil on the finger, and installed the rest of the coolant system up to the block. This was an area that used to leak a lot before, so I had taken the time before to clean it all up properly to hopefully stop any further leaks. Such a bad design in the system, it's no wonder half the VR6 owners I know deal with leaking coolant on a regular basis.
.
Thermostat housing bolts up here.








.
.
.
And everything in place.
.








.
.
Next up was pulling off the stock oil cooler/heat exchanger and the coolant lines that went along with it. The new stuff should arrive tomorrow from Shawn @ MMP.
.








.








.
.
.
I know I need to still install the oil feed line and that means removing the blue sensor and putting the T-fitting inline of it, but aside from that we noticed the white sensor in the back left seems to be busted? 
.








.
.
The prong or sensor top seems a little [email protected] So I was gonna replace it. Anyone know what it does?
.
.
.
Next up hooked up the power steering fluid rail across the front end.
.








.








.
.
And bolted it into place
.








.








.
.
.
.
Also began hooking up the rest of the coolant lines.
.








.
.
So now it almost looks like a real VR6 again...
.








.
.
.
.
Now what are some of you doing to combat the heat back here on the coolant lines that go from the top of the head to the firewall? It runs awefully close to the DP/Turbo/Manifold.
.








.








.
.
Does some type of heat wrap need to be installed on the coolant lines to stop blistering?
.
.
.
.
.
.
Gonna take these two coolant lines that run to the throttle body and recirculate them. Lucky for me the hose had previously torn and there is a connector already in place. So i'm just gonna undo the one end and get rid of it and loop the other back round and in. Voila'.
.








.
.
.
Now the master and slave cylinder tray it sitting at a weird angle in its place. I believe its supposed to be horizontal but I can't seem to get it to go back to horizontal. I dont know if when we pulled/installed the engine if it may have brought that up slightly. But does anyone have any idea how to get it back to level again?
.








.
.
.
.
Also trying to play lets identify where this bolts up? I'm thinking passenger side, somewhere around the old MAF/TB location but I'm not sure where it bolted up to, or what runs through it?
.








.
.
.
.
.
.
More to come tomorrow if/when the oil cooler arrives. It will get installed, and other odds and ends will continue to be bolted up and hooked back up again. 
Still waiting on the intercooler core, but I think I'm making decent progress. No use going any quicker, there is still a good 2 months before the roads will be cleaned up from all the gravel from the winter before the car can come out without risking getting sandblasted.


----------



## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*

got to pull that freeze plug with the nipple and replace with a regular freeze plug.
make sure you ground those wires on the bracket that used to go to the back of intake manifold or you will see your cluster have a seizure.
that sensor that is broken is oil temp sensor
instead of looping the coolant lines get a piece of 3/4 heater hose to go from back of head to heater core. then use 5/16 fuel hose from the T to the coolant bottle. will look alot better
that bracket holds the fuel lines and i beleive bolted to the manifold.
hope that helps a bit.


----------



## all-starr-me (Jul 14, 2003)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote »_
Also trying to play lets identify where this bolts up? I'm thinking passenger side, somewhere around the old MAF/TB location but I'm not sure where it bolted up to, or what runs through it?
.









that bolts to the back of the head and the upper manifold on the passenger side and holds the fuel lines in place.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (all-starr-me)*


_Quote, originally posted by *all-starr-me* »_
that bolts to the back of the head and the upper manifold on the passenger side and holds the fuel lines in place.

that's what i thought. Thanks man.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (bonesaw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bonesaw* »_got to pull that freeze plug with the nipple and replace with a regular freeze plug.
make sure you ground those wires on the bracket that used to go to the back of intake manifold or you will see your cluster have a seizure.
that sensor that is broken is oil temp sensor
instead of looping the coolant lines get a piece of 3/4 heater hose to go from back of head to heater core. then use 5/16 fuel hose from the T to the coolant bottle. will look alot better
that bracket holds the fuel lines and i beleive bolted to the manifold.
hope that helps a bit.

Any tips on removing the stock plug in the block with the nipple? I can't for the life of me get it out with pliers and am worried i may snap the nipple off. I have a new frost plug to go in there, and I know to throw it in the freezer to allow it to go in a little easier, but getting this old one out is a bit$h.
You have any pics of the TB coolant line setup you are talking about, I'm having a hard time visualizing what you mean.
Is that sensor in fact broken? Is it the sensor on the top or the bit of wire that plugs into it. i can't exactly tell. 

Thanks man


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

UPS package tracking tells me my oil cooler is sitting outside my back door....yaaaaay


----------



## all-starr-me (Jul 14, 2003)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_Any tips on removing the stock plug in the block with the nipple? I can't for the life of me get it out with pliers and am worried i may snap the nipple off. I have a new frost plug to go in there, and I know to throw it in the freezer to allow it to go in a little easier, but getting this old one out is a bit$h.
You have any pics of the TB coolant line setup you are talking about, I'm having a hard time visualizing what you mean.
Is that sensor in fact broken? Is it the sensor on the top or the bit of wire that plugs into it. i can't exactly tell. 

Thanks man

Freeze plugs are very hard to remove, try hitting the edge with a chisel or flat head and a hammer to get one side to swivel in and the other out, but don't mar up the hole surface. 
that sensor is broken, you press the clip on the white plug and the spade will fall out that was on top of the sensor.


----------



## all-starr-me (Jul 14, 2003)

*Re: (nOOb)*

I think he means replace this one in blue with 5/16" and delete the red one:

then replace this one is red with a 3/4" heater hose and it will clean them up, no looping needed.


----------



## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: (all-starr-me)*

thats exactly what i meant thanks all starr


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

good call. I will have to do some hose shopping.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

What can brown do for you?.......make me very happy thats what.
Came home to a nice package on my doorstep








.
.
.
.
Lots of pretty metal things inside
.








.
.
.
.
Mocal Thermostatic Plate








.








.
.
.
.
Mocal Oil Cooler (16 row)
.








Also stainless lines and russel fittings. 
i am happy. time to start installing....










_Modified by nOOb at 7:07 PM 2-26-2008_


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Spent some time doing some more polishing tonite. It's no where near finished, but you can get the gist of where its headed. Still have a few more nights I figure before it will be ready to go. Then i will have to have it clear coated, or live with polishing it anytime it rains or gets moisture on it.
.








.
.
.
Also to appease rhys i spent a little time scrubbing some stuff like the front mount area down which were still dirty. used some diluted simple green as I think the super clean was too strong and taking the finish off of the stuff i was cleaning. Didn't do a ton of stuff....but it'll get there.
.








.
.
.
.
.
Also spent some time playing around with the different positions i can mount this thermostatic plate. There is a small black plastic clip that attaches to the oil filter housing, i didn't take the housing off to see how vital the piece was, but it limits where I can and can't position the plate.
.








.
.
.
Without removing the tab I am really only limited to a few options, some of which wont work anyway once the 45* fittings are put in place.
.








.








.








.
.
I will have to do some more research and figure out how most are mounting their plate and where they are placing the cooler itself. It's tough to tell where there will be room just yet as I don't have an intercooler and piping to check and see fitment in areas.
.
.
.
.
Also got around to playing around with the coolant lines a little bit. On the advice of some of the guys on the vortex I am going to eliminate a few of the T fittings in the piping as I no longer need to send lines to the throttle body. So I took off the one T pipe that runs from the top of the coolant reservoir, and then splits and heads to the top of the rad, and the throttle body
.








.
.
.
Disconnected the long end off of it
.








.
.
.
And then hooked the long end up directly to the fitting that goes to the rad. I know its a little long....I will prolly take 2" off of it before it's all finally hooked up. But doing this saved me going out and buying new coolant hose.
.








.
.
.
.
Next up I threw on the manifold and throttle body just to see what kind of room I would be working with for a few other things.
.








.
.
.
.
Decided to dig out my AC lines just to see what kind of room I had when I reinstall them
.








.








.








.








.
.
.
.
As you can see it's gonna be quite tight. I may have to get some custom AC lines made up, or portions of lines. I pulled the AC rad out with the other part of the line and it is really tight. Those lines come right through the space that I want to run the piping from the intercooler to the Intake manifold. So there is going to be some definite custom work needed to make this all fit. But it doesn't seem as bad as I originally thought it might be.
.
.
.
.
Everything as it stands at the moment
.









More to come in the next few days


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

*Re: (nOOb)*

I don't think it's a good idea to run that upper cooling line like that. That line is used to bleed air from the head and the radiator and bring it to the highest point, the overflow bottle. The way you have it, air will be trapped above the head and in the turbo coolant inlet with no way out.


----------



## all-starr-me (Jul 14, 2003)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_Also spent some time playing around with the different positions i can mount this thermostatic plate. There is a small black plastic clip that attaches to the oil filter housing, i didn't take the housing off to see how vital the piece was, but it limits where I can and can't position the plate.
.








.
.
.
Without removing the tab I am really only limited to a few options, some of which wont work anyway once the 45* fittings are put in place.
.








.








.










take the filter housing off and cut that corner off, its aluminum under that plastic guard. If you keep the stock cooler it spaces the thermostat plate out enough to clear, but thats not neccesary unless you plan on driving in the really cold to warm your oil up sooner. cut that corner down and everything fits much better.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

that was what i was thinking. will a dremel and cutting blade suffice or do i need to get something with more grit?


----------



## francocorrado (Nov 23, 2004)

Haha no need for fancy dremels, take a hammer give it a tap and it will fall off quite cleanly, then sand it down. That will make for good orientation on your oil cooler lines.
The fitting you have coming out of the block for the sandwich plate is the wrong one. You either need to cut it and just leave the threads or get the shorter one mocal sells. The fitting you have now is for people who have the stock heat exchanger as well. Don't forget that freeze plug to replace the one with the nipple.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (francocorrado)*








i know the fitting is the wrong one, it came with both but i threw the longer one in as it made playing around with stuff a little easier for now. The short one will go in when I install it dont worry.


----------



## BumblebVR6 (Nov 22, 2001)

*Re: (francocorrado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *francocorrado* »_Haha no need for fancy dremels, take a hammer give it a tap and it will fall off quite cleanly, then sand it down. That will make for good orientation on your oil cooler lines.
The fitting you have coming out of the block for the sandwich plate is the wrong one. You either need to cut it and just leave the threads or get the shorter one mocal sells. The fitting you have now is for people who have the stock heat exchanger as well. Don't forget that freeze plug to replace the one with the nipple.

You can also get the short nipple at the dealer for a little over $2 US. Part number 059 115 721.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (BumblebVR6)*

see the post right above you.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

today looks like its going to be a polishing day....


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

little pic update:
Here is the variable valve off a BMW 335 I will be using, need to go get a cutting blade for the die grinder and lop it off.









Did some sandig while watching the hockey and stuff tonite...its getting there slowly:


----------



## ridefuel (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_[Now what are some of you doing to combat the heat back here on the coolant lines that go from the top of the head to the firewall? It runs awefully close to the DP/Turbo/Manifold.
.










You must keep the heat away from the coolant line. The heat will melt it. At a minimum wrap the downpipe, then either figure out a way to put a heat shield inbetween and/or wrap the coolant line. A friend of mine had 3 seperate issues with coolant lines near the back of the motor failing due to heat. Stock and Samco type hoses. He said new stock type held up best.


----------



## 93SLCyasee (Jul 22, 2004)

This is an awesome thread. Since you're replacing the majority of items, why not replace the hoses? I didn't do that when we rebuilt my engine and I should have. Hoses sprung several leaks. That Samco set group but is well worth it.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (93SLCyasee)*

Got this sorted out late last night, i didn't realize it had to sit so low. I was trying to make it fit at the stock height, but that stupid little arm that bolts up to the head wasn't having any of that nonsense.


----------



## BumblebVR6 (Nov 22, 2001)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_see the post right above you.

Yea I saw it, just posting it for future reference if anyone needs later on.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

i'm all the way to 400 grit on the manifold tonite. god damn i cant even jerk off my arm is so sore.


----------



## sp00l0nu (Feb 1, 2008)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_i'm all the way to 400 grit on the manifold tonite. god damn i cant even jerk off my arm is so sore.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

alexi,
do you want to explain where you relocated your check valve to?


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

What does the sensor's coming out of this tangle of wires do? It also has a plate on it with a ground that used to bolt up to the intake manifold. 
What I was thinking was to simply see if I can ground it to one of the metal studs that go through the valve cover if they ground.
Would that be sufficient?
Where did the rest of those sensors get routed to?


----------



## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*

thats your cam sensor and aux water pump. those wires have to be grounded or cluster wont work, possibly ecu.


----------



## AlexiGTIVR6 (Jul 21, 2000)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_alexi,
do you want to explain where you relocated your check valve to?










as I posed on Dubberz.
The valve for the charcoal canister (aka frequency valve) needs to be re plumbed back to the intake manifold. With the stock manifold it gets hook up to a nimple by the TB. Now that you have a SRI you need to run the hose to the SRI. This is why a tapped a few 1/8 npt holes in the SRI. To make it look cleaner take the actual frequency valve and relocate it to the front of your car. By the horns works good and out of sight. You will need to extent the wiring to it also. Now hook up a hose from the out of the frequency valve to your SRI with a one-way check valve in that hose (you should have this from kinetic) . Make sure it can only flow to the manifold not from it. This valve is to stop your fuel tank from getting boooosted


----------



## AlexiGTIVR6 (Jul 21, 2000)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_What does the sensor's coming out of this tangle of wires do? It also has a plate on it with a ground that used to bolt up to the intake manifold. 
What I was thinking was to simply see if I can ground it to one of the metal studs that go through the valve cover if they ground.
Would that be sufficient?
Where did the rest of those sensors get routed to?










The wires to the left are for the TB and PCV valve. The PVC valve is no longer used so dont worry about that but the TB plug has to be moved to the TB. Also just attach the ground wires to a new location as you dont need that bracket anymore


----------



## sp00l0nu (Feb 1, 2008)

damn this project is coming out nice. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (sp00l0nu)*

Alright so it's time to start playing "name that sensor & connection". I realize VW does make this as easy as it could be by making it so connections can only go together, as they are all unique, but with the movement of some parts, and the deletion of other stuff, its making it fun trying to clip everything back up because things aren't always where they should be.
1. The PCV & TB connection. As people explained earlier I need to relocate the TB one to the front of the car, and dont need the PCV one anymore. Is it fine to just snip off the PCV valve? should I just leave it on and not plugged in? Also when relocating the TB connection is there enough length in the line as is or do i need to splice in an extension. I dont want to go stripping back all the wire cover to find it out its too short anyway. 








2. What does this little bad boy do? Connects to the top of the tranny. Can't find anything in the immediate vicinty that is missing something that plugs into it. Any ideas?









3. This check valve used to plug into the back of the intake IIRC. What does it do and where is it supposed to be going now?









4. For the life of me I forget how this bolts up in the car. i know it went up somewhere beside the washer fluid reservoir but cant find what it would bolt up onto. If someone has a pic it would be helpful. I can't find one of it bolted up in its stock position.








.
.
.
.
.
I apologize if this is ridiculously easy stuff, its the small stuff that gets you. And its just tedious when you dont remember where things went. Most things I didn't know I labelled and photographed, but there were a few things we undid before I started doing this. 
Thanks guys


----------



## AlexiGTIVR6 (Jul 21, 2000)

*Re: (nOOb)*

answered on dubbers


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

see previous post for the first half of this question......
My other question surrounds routing of the oil cooler lines. I think the best spot for it is behind the brake duct on the drivers side as there is lots of room. So my routing options are as follows:
A. I go over the top of the front mount and around the top of the tranny. Only issue I am worried about is that bolt head you sticks out about an inch off the block towards the front of the car so it makes it very tight for trying to get the fittings on and the lines around this protrusion.









B. I point the plate downward, and take advantage of the 45* fittings by angling them already over to the drivers side and run the lines under the front mount.
Plate would sit like so:









And the lines would run under the void beneath the mount you can see here where the power steering line runs.


----------



## shortshiften (Mar 29, 2005)

i installed mine with the fittings pointed downward. 
im pretty sure it doesnt make any difference i think its how u want to route it. once theres oil pressure its not going to matter
GL


----------



## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (shortshiften)*

you should just delete your a/c and slap the cooler in front of your radiator. you're in canada... how often could you possibly use the a/c?!


----------



## dossantos25 (Mar 18, 2005)

*Re: (MyCarIsRed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MyCarIsRed* »_you should just delete your a/c and slap the cooler in front of your radiator. you're in canada... how often could you possibly use the a/c?!









try 40*C with the humidex (104F), its like walking outside and getting hit by instant sweat... not too mention the heat coming through the firewall.


----------



## 708VR6 (May 20, 2006)

*Re: (dossantos25)*

I went to niagara in summer of 82 and it was just as hot there as it was in jersey(homestate btw)...not that it was that far from jersery to begine with...oh nevermind










_Modified by 708VR6 at 1:01 PM 3-6-2008_


----------



## calder (Jun 8, 2003)

why is everything so dirty I thought the engine was out etc?


----------



## 708VR6 (May 20, 2006)

*Re: (calder)*

he only cleaned what was deemed necessary


----------



## VRClownCar (Apr 8, 2001)

*Re: (dossantos25)*

I just deleted the AC in my car, and the AC in my other car doesn't work . . I live in the desert where it hits 120*F+ man up















btw- great project so far. can't wait to see it completed http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (VRClownCar)*

i do a lot of long distance highway driving in this car (600mile trips) failry regularly in the summer. it gets pretty warm through the interior of BC which is for all intensive purposes classified as a proper desert. 
Driving at high speed you cant have the windows down becuase of the road noise it creates, and AC is just so lovely


----------



## shortshiften (Mar 29, 2005)

just turn the boost up to compinsate for the ac


----------



## Cubix (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: (shortshiften)*

add another spool to vent directly into the cabin
TURBO AC!


----------



## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (Cubix)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cubix* »_add another spool to vent directly into the cabin
TURBO AC!









i almost bought one of these a few years ago! it's a swamp cooler!


----------



## Cubix (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: (MyCarIsRed)*

I remember we put one on my dads old bug back in the mid 80's
Then a few years ago they had the billboards for the new bugs
"Now with great new options, like heat!"
Love this project
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## fightthisfeeling (Apr 28, 2006)

I go up and stay in kelowna with my uncle and grandma in the summer and it is as hot there as it is over 700 miles south here in co. The rockys up there are way more amasing though. 


_Modified by fightthisfeeling at 10:08 PM 3-9-2008_


----------



## DHill (Jan 8, 2002)

*Re: (fightthisfeeling)*

Great thread. Thanks for all the detail. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (DHill)*

the final piece of the puzzle has finally arrived








no more excuses for me.
If anyone has a diagram of how the boost/vaccum tubing goes, where the DV sits in the whole equation and all that it would be appreciated.
i've got no clue about that stuff at the moment and im having a hard time finding it in any build threads


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

throttle body is tapped and the bracket drilled out and bolted up. Can now mount this to the manifold.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

Installed the frost plug in the secondary air injection hole....threw it in the freezer to shrink it, god does it make it easy.









Then hooked up the oil cooler stuff. Do I need thread sealer on it?








And installed.









GF is here so I can't get much big **** done....next week I can. It's so bloody close its pissing me off now.


----------



## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*

I feel your pain with the gf thing, her spring break this past week, i've gotten nothing done, haha.


----------



## shortshiften (Mar 29, 2005)

when are you going to chance the oil cooler freeze plug


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (shortshiften)*

im working on a way to try and get it out right now. I have the plug, but am worried about using a screwdriver to punch it out. Trying to find someone with a slide hammer or something.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

so whats on the other side of the larger frost plug i need to pull out that had the coolant nipple on it?
I have tried pliers but its just not working. I'm debating punching a hole in it with a screwdriver and trying to pry it out, or tear it apart from there. 
But I want to know whats on the other side before i do this so I dont damage things.
Also if the plug goes into the water jacket will it be easy to get out? ie. toss a magnet in there and fish around. I'm slightly worried about that.
It's being a serious PITA! and is stopping me from installing the intake and fuel rail.


----------



## 708VR6 (May 20, 2006)

*Re: (nOOb)*

that's just a freezeplug with a nipple sticking out of it, use a screwdriver and punch/pry it out...there shouldn't be anything behind it other than the cavity for the coolant to flow thru...


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (708VR6)*

that was my assumption i just wanted to be sure about that before actually doing it.
Last thing I wanted was an 
OMG WTF I JUST PUNCHED A HOLE THROUGH MY WATER JACKET! thread.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

The gf flew home today so I could finally get some more work done. I hope to have the car basically ready to go off to the welder for piping and end tank fabrication by the middle of next week to keep on my April 1st timeline.
Spent half the afternoon driving around looking for somewhere that sells black boost tubing. No where I found had it, tried the usual suspects. Going to try Mopac tomorrow morning by phone and see. Same went for brass T fittings in the size I needed. ****ing annoying.

Watched the Canucks game and got some more polishing done. It's starting to shine, need to give it a go over with some Mothers aluminum polishing combpoung when its done to really make it shine but its getting there. At 600 grit now. Need to still do 800, 1000 and some 1500 before its fully done.

Also finally got that damn frost plug out. End up tapping the one end in with a screwdriver which forced the other end out. Then just grabbed some needle nose and pulled it out when the outside edge was exposed. I pulled out the crack pipe and thermostat housing to get enough room. Easy install anyway.








.
.
.
.
Threw the new plug in
.
.
.








.
.
.
.
And reinstalled everything with the new frost plug in place.
..
.
.








.
.
.
.
With the manifold bolted up again just so I could make some measurements for the fuel rail
.
.








.
.
.
.
I then trimmed down the two rear clips on the fuel rail which no longer will bolt up. They stuck out and would have scratched the surface of the SRI and no one wants that.








.
.
.
.
Removed the sensor from the stock manifold
.








.
.
.
And installed it in the SRI
.
.








.
.
.
.
Reinstalled the battery tray and hooked up the power steering stuff. 








.
.
Thanks to Alexi's diagram and the help of everyone else I also have a better idea where wiring is going so I labelled a few things with painters tape that will get done tomorrow night.
I would really like to get that damn boost tubing and T fittings so I can button up everything nicely together, but that will have to wait until tomorrow.

Quick question....how do I get the lower left hand bolt in for the intake manifold? It looks nearly physically impossible to do, due to the placement of the tensioner and the alternator?









.
.
.
More to come tomorrow.


----------



## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*

that bolt is a bitch. i installed my lower before i bolted the head back down when i had it off. made it a lot easier. i think the only other option is to unbolt the alternator and swing it down a bit so you get some access. maybe someone else knows a trick, but i never figured it out.


----------



## 708VR6 (May 20, 2006)

*Re: (MyCarIsRed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MyCarIsRed* »_that bolt is a bitch. i installed my lower before i bolted the head back down when i had it off. made it a lot easier. i think the only other option is to unbolt the alternator and swing it down a bit so you get some access. maybe someone else knows a trick, but i never figured it out.

^^^what he said


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

dammit thats not what I wanted to hear. Is there an easy way to jiggle around the Alternator to get the required room without having to remove it all the way?


----------



## stealthmk1 (Aug 17, 2001)

*Re: (nOOb)*

long shank ball end allen socket FTW.
But removing the alt is no big deal either.


_Modified by stealthmk1 at 5:06 PM 3-18-2008_


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (stealthmk1)*

if someone has a quick photo or steps to swing the alt that would be helpful. I might try and polish up the alternator cover while i am in there.


----------



## 708VR6 (May 20, 2006)

*Re: (nOOb)*

I have these pics of the alt pulled back and away from the upper bracket


----------



## Roadhog_ (Feb 26, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Holy crap is that a crack in your block?! Or just an illusion...


----------



## 708VR6 (May 20, 2006)

*Re: (Roadhog_)*

looks more like a scratch created by a loose tool while working in that area...


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (Roadhog_)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Roadhog_* »_Holy crap is that a crack in your block?! Or just an illusion...










which picture are you referring to i cant see yours for some reason


----------



## 708VR6 (May 20, 2006)

*Re: (nOOb)*

11th one down, of all pics posted btw


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

if its in reference to the scratch near the frost plug that was from my attempted leverage with a pry bar on a wrench on the coolant frost plug from last night. its just a scratch. i was getting pissed off with it.


----------



## Surfgreenguitar5 (Nov 14, 2006)

haha yes the crack pipe and secondary air injection both were messed up on my mkIII also. we replaced the crack pipe on mine when we did the tubo set up and now it's cracked yet again


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (Surfgreenguitar5)*

did you use the plastic pipe?
that sucks man.

Friday is looking like it may be the day to get everything done.....YAY


----------



## WeeZFan69 (Aug 3, 2003)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Sorry if you've answered this already, I haven't read every post, but when do you think the car will be back on the road?


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (WeeZFan69)*

I am aiming for April 1.
I went and picked up all the vaccum tubing I will need and the T fittings and stuff to hook everything up. 
Just gotta hook everything up and send it off for welding


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Went home sick from work early today cause I felt like ****, so I took the opportunity to swing past some part shops on the way cause they are always closed when I get off work. Got 15 feet of vaccum line which should be more than enough to do all the engine bay stuff, the dump and the boost controller in the cabin. Also was able to track down some brass and plastic T fittings for my manifold and the vaccum lines so I can get that all sorted out.

Felt a little better this evening so I decided to spend a bit of time in the garage.

First up I installed the brass oil fitting into the turbo. I didn't use any sealant on it as people have commented it may clog the feed line. I tried to get it tight while still angling it towards the engine to make routing the line easy.









Next up I went and installed the fitting on top of the oil filter housing. I removed the blue sensor which I am told is the one we need to use, and set things up like you can see below. Now I didn't know if it was better to have the sensor on the top or on the side? I don't know if this will impact the oil flow substantially or what. Maybe someone can comment before I install the lines.

















Next up I stripped back the TB sensor and the other sensor in the harness, as well as removed the plate the ground was connected to. Going to snip the one sensor out of the harness and tape up the ends, relocate the ground and then reroute the TB plug to the front so it can plug in. Couldn't find any bloody wire clutters that would do a good job so I held off this til tomorrow.

















Also dug out my magical parts box I had stored under the table and forgotten about. Found a few harnesses I had forgotten about and things like the brake booster vaccum tube. Will need to install all of those this weekend.









This is my vaccum line cheat sheet that Alexi made for me....big thanks again man









While figuring out what i needed to do on the relocation of the check valve I removed the intake tubing and found the following:

Here you can see the charcoal canister vent line with the check valve, this will have to get pulled from the back and relocated to the front of the car and into the manifold.









But even stranger was the random connectors I found back there and didn't know existed. They obviously plug into each other, but where does that plate mount onto so it doesn't move around?









Also what the hell is this and where does it hook up to? It's located just below where the AC housing is on the firewall and even after consulting the bentley I can't figure out for the life of me what the hell it is and does, and where it hooks up to.








I hope to get all of this sorted out over the long weekend, so the quicker I can get answers the better.
Thanks.


----------



## 708VR6 (May 20, 2006)

*Re: (nOOb)*

that plate is either bolted down with the same bolt as the rear engine mount or clips onto the mount, the sensor in your hand is the knock sensor, mounts on the block just under where the stock exhaust manifold, and above the engine mount bracket(aluminum one)
knock sensor locations, and make sure they are torqued properly or else they'll give the ecu false readings










_Modified by 708VR6 at 11:11 PM 3-19-2008_


----------



## Surfgreenguitar5 (Nov 14, 2006)

yea i messed up by not buying the billet crack pipe the second time around


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (Surfgreenguitar5)*

Looks like it bolts up to the bolt sticking out of the block in this photo


----------



## LISTO14 (Dec 20, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

yeah thats the spot for the rear knock sensor.. make sure you torq to specs. i think it 15ft/lbs


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (LISTO14)*

that's gonna be a PITA to get a torque wrench in there


----------



## stealthmk1 (Aug 17, 2001)

*Re: (nOOb)*

either find a small torque wrench, or you could proably go up from the bottom.
And that connector plate normally gets attached to the small stud on top of the factory original engine mount bolt, but since you replaced the bolt you can just zip tie it to the mount somewhere.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (stealthmk1)*

will do thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Got a whole ton of stuff done tonite in terms of sorting out wiring and sensors. Had a friends SC-VR come round and I did an oil change for him in exchange for his electrical skills and his car as the electrical blueprint diagram.

First up relocated the frequency valve. Rerouted the tubes from the charcoal canister as they will now go to the SRI at the front of the car. Cut the tubing, extended the sensor wiring as well. All that's left to do is route in the check valve and send it to the SRI to the T fitting.
















Also hooked up the knock sensor in the back and torqued it properly, hooked up the o2 sensors down the back as well from last night that I couldn't figure out.

Next up we sorted out we dealt with removing the PCV sensor clip from the harness and cleaning up the wiring for the temp sensor. It will be loomed in properly and shrink wrapped up to look good.









Hooked up the battery grounds, the alternator, starter, sorted out that damn relay box i didn't know where it went (it was right behind the headlight on the drivers side BTW), and tons of other small stuff. Brake booster is attached. etc.
I also redid all of the oil fittings with high temp permatex thread sealer in an attempt to avoid a BBQ smurf. I'll still be installing a fire extinguisher into the car as well. 

This is how we left it tonite, lot more stuff is gone from the box of goodies. Headlight harness still needs to be hooked up, and the rest of the vaccum lines need to be plumbed in. With the day off tomorrow and a mechanic friend coming round in the afternoon I hope to get this all buttoned up and ready to get loaded into the race trailer and sent to the welder for fabrication.

How it looks after I was done with it:









Not huge changes....but lots of subtle ones. Definetly a lot of progress tonite.

Couple of questions:
a) Can I run the DV off the vaccum nipple located on the brake booster line? There is a nipple aready built in there....just asking to be hooked up.
b) Where the hell does this hook up? it has a sensor that hooks up right near the front mount but just wondering where the actual plate hooks up to?


----------



## LISTO14 (Dec 20, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

it goes on the peice that connects the front mount to the tranny/block.. i think its for the a/c compressor clutch.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (LISTO14)*

will check it out...thanks


----------



## veedub2.8 (Sep 1, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

just... wow. This thread is more deserving of the following picture than any I have seen on here. Excellent work noob.. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 708VR6 (May 20, 2006)

*Re: (LISTO14)*


_Quote, originally posted by *LISTO14* »_it goes on the peice that connects the front mount to the tranny/block.. i think its for the a/c compressor clutch.

yea it clips on the bracket for the mount, it holds the harnesses for the knock sensor, engine speed sensor...


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (708VR6)*

Got so much stuff done today it's unbelievable. Little bit of a teaser shot for now, gonna go drinking will do a write up in the morning.










the smile on my face is a mile wide right now.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

*March 21st, 2008 - It's a Real Car Again*

Sooooo....Yesterday was a pretty busy day. I had two buddies come round, one a former VW mechanic and the other an electrical engineer both who would give me a hand to get everything sorted out and put back together. My goal for this weekend was to get the car ready to roll into the trailer and head to the welder for intercooler piping fabrication.

Started off clipping that bracket up to the front mount holder....thanks vortex guys for that one.









Also installed that relay that everyone kept telling me went up under the bottom of the coolant reservoir. In fact it bolts up between the back of the headlight and the washer reservoir.









Here you can see a better shot of the line we extended that runs to the check valve. It is now relocated right in the corner beneath where the headlight will go.








Next up was pulling out the old injectors from the fuel rail. Just takes a little strength to pull them out. it's a little rubber o-ring holding them in there once you get the metal and plastic clip released.

















The finished product:








and then with the plastic wiring holder clipped back on








Then came removing the ECU and swapping the chips. If you remember on Day 1 of the build I removed the rain tray and all of that to expose the ECU holder. So today we unplugged it and pulled it out. I also took this time to vaccum out all the leaves and pine needles that were in there. It's a good idea to do this every so often as there is a drain hole there that gets clogged up with crap and leads to water in your passenger footwell. 









THis is what the removed ECU case looks like. You then have to undo 4 bolts on the one edge to pull out the "motherboard"









My C2 42lb injector software









This is the chip board once it is pulled out of the holder, you can see the chip you need to replace it has the yellow sticker on it









We used some thumb tacks to pull the chip up









And installed the new chip
















.
.
.
.
.
.
Next up came dealing with all the wiring and vaccum lines. I wanted to make sure all the wires were grouped together and loomed properly so I needed some electrical tape, shrink wrap and zap straps. 
When buying your zap straps it is important to ensure freshness of the strap....be sure to check for the silver freshness seal.

















Now that's fresh.
.
.
.
.
.
.
I installed my brass T-fittings into my short runner intake making sure they were in there good so as not to cause a vaccum leak.









I also pulled out of hiding the MMP phelonic spacer I have had for 2 years. Little did I know there was a secondary air injection delete frost plug in the bag with the allen bolts. The same one i spent over a week looking around town for. It's 3/4" btw....you would be amazed the IM/PM's i have got about that hahaha.









Here is an interesting one. The ports on the intake are quite a bit smaller than that on the head. Obviously I can't overlay the head on the intake and still have you see it, but using the phelonic spacer you can really see the difference. I wonder if its worth down the road to port that out slightly to get more flow? 









Anyway. So we loosened off the serpentine belt, then removed the tensioner, then undid the bolt holding on the alternator and swung it down. This allowed us enough room to reach all of the bolts on the intake manifold to bolt it up to the head. Those germans really know how to put bolts in awkward places. One is on the bottom directly behind where the TB bolts up making it very tricky to get in and tightend








.
.
.
.
Once the manifold was installed we could do a lot more things. First I installed the fuel rail. It only uses two bolts now to hold it in place but its on there good and doesn't bounce around. We also then bolted up the throttle body to the manifold. You can see the phelonic spacer board in this pic between the intake and the head. For those who don't know what they do it helps to reduce the amount of heat transfer from the head to the intake. Usually on a stock setup you can't touch your intake after a drive cause its so hot...the spacer helps reduce the heat transfer making the intake cooler.









I then installed the plastic rail on the fuel rail and put all the wiring where it needed to go for the injectors








.
.
.
.
.
.
Next up I installed the oil feed line from the top of the oil filter housing to the turbo. I tried to keep the cable as out of the way as possible. I also hooked up the fuel lines to the fuel rail, and installed the dip stick. To install the dip stick I had to grind the bracket off of it that used to bolt up to i think the lower intake on the stock setup. That was ground off and sanded smooth so it would fit through the SRI and down into the block and oilpan.









With that done I decided to pull the rad out for a test fit and see how close the clearances were going to be.

























As you can see it was tight....but fit with enough room. What I did do was grind down one of the bolts on the fan shroud a little. It was very close to the TB throttle cable hookup that would move when I stepped on the gas, so to avoid any potential issues I ground off 1/2" off the bolt end.
I removed the rad again, and hooked up the throttle cable, and the intake temp sensor in the SRI.









I then got greedy and intalled all the intake stuff to the turbo. God that looks sexy.









I then found out these pieces of garbage in the front of the car are from the secondary air injection setup, so i more than happily cut them out.









It is slowly starting to resemble a real car again

















Next up the radiator was installed for good

















And then the AC condensor.









And then the lines for the AC were hooked up. 

















It is going to be tight with the AC lines there and the SRI and intercooler piping but it looks like its going to fit. Worst comes to worst I get some custom lines made up, not the end of the world to do. 
That's how it sits now. I will not be bolting on the front end as the welder will have to take it off again, so to make his life easy the car will go to him like this and then the stuff can be bolted up when its done.
I hope to get it into the trailer sometime early this week, it will go and get the end tanks, test pipe/dump, and intercooler plumbing all fabbed up. 
Stuff left to do on the car includes:
- installing the oil cooler and the lines that run to it
- installing the boost gauge and boost controller
- installing the fuel pump
- installing the wiring and lines for the dump
- hooking up and installing the diverter valve
- hooking up and installing the oil catch can
- painting the intercooler black with heat displacement paint
and a few other things.

I am so excited it is getting this close. The street sweepers are officially out cleaning the gravel up from the winter that they put down for the snow....so the roads will be ready for me soon enough.
I estimate a week at the fabricator before the car comes back and it turns over.


----------



## 708VR6 (May 20, 2006)

*Re: (nOOb)*

looking pretty sweet! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## AlexiGTIVR6 (Jul 21, 2000)

*Re: (708VR6)*

Almost there http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## opydocorrado (Oct 26, 2007)

*Re: (AlexiGTIVR6)*

WOW dude, i don;t have to ask any more questions because of this thread! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Everything i need to know is here.....i am not necessarily turboing my car YET, but am removing the motor and putting in a 1998 VR6 from a GTI! I have one question for you i am in the process of removing my axles....when you removed them did you ahve to undo anything such as the knuckles or did you just unscrew the bolts and pop them out!? PLEASE LET ME KNOW as i am more a NEWB than you!








BEST/MOST USEFUL THREAD AROUND





















http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: (opydocorrado)*

that relay that bolts behind the headlight is for the sec air. so you might as well take it out.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (opydocorrado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *opydocorrado* »_WOW dude, i don;t have to ask any more questions because of this thread! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Everything i need to know is here.....i am not necessarily turboing my car YET, but am removing the motor and putting in a 1998 VR6 from a GTI! I have one question for you i am in the process of removing my axles....when you removed them did you ahve to undo anything such as the knuckles or did you just unscrew the bolts and pop them out!? PLEASE LET ME KNOW as i am more a NEWB than you!








BEST/MOST USEFUL THREAD AROUND





















http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


are you taking your axles out all together or is this just to remove the engine? if you are taking them out all together then yes we had to remove the knuckles to slide them out. if its just to remove the engine you just need to unbolt each axle from the transmission drive flanges. You will need a 12 point (triple square) bit. I forget the exact size but any place like Autozone, NAPA, etc. will carry them if you just say you want to take your axles off.
I was a total nOOb when i started this build, hence the name.
it's amazing what a bentley, a digital camera and the internet can help someone do.


----------



## opydocorrado (Oct 26, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

GREAT thnks alot for the help! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif GOOD LUCK AGAIN, hope everything works out, and **** that thing is gonna pull




























http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## veedub2.8 (Sep 1, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_I was a total nOOb when i started this build, hence the name.
it's amazing what a bentley, a digital camera and the internet can help someone do. 

You have given hope to many, many noobs.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (veedub2.8)*

To the guy who PM'd me about the throttle cable:
It doesn't need to be extended, all you have to do is make that little bracket for the throttle body that will hold the cable at the correct angle. There are instructions how to do that on like page 8 or 9. 
It runs straight from the firewall directly to the throttle body as straight as possible so it passes right under the coilpack. I know the pictures are hard to see but just follow the cable from the front end all the way straight back. It's pretty sinple.

















hope that helps man.


----------



## fightthisfeeling (Apr 28, 2006)

*Re: (nOOb)*

cant wait to see her finished. Whats specs on the ic your running brand/size/piping size


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (fightthisfeeling)*

*Update - March 23, 2008 - Button Everything Up*

So with everything in the engine bay for the most part done and the car to be heading off to get the IC plumbing done I decided to throw the car back together. I was originally going to leave it with the front end apart, but its so simple to take apart again, and in case any measurements need to be made with it together by him I just put it on. Plus the hood had to get installed...so one thing led to another and BOOM!.

Installed the hood, takes 2 people to do it easily, just line up the paint around the bolt holes and tighten it up








Next up we installed the rad support. It's funny that this was a tough thing for me to uninstall when I started this project.....I was a total newby. Now its just a few bolts and its on








Installed the rebar....this thing is going to get hacked to itsy bitsy pieces hahaha.









Then installed the bumper...









I'm not putting the headlights in. I'm trying to locate a set of GTi e-codes to put in, so I will leave the stock ones out for now.

Engine shot with the front end on. Also used some mothers aluminum polish on the manifold...man does it shine now I love it.









And now the grille on and car back together.....God does it look sexy. I miss my smurf.

























I never would have thought I would be able to do this again to my car hahaha.









Nice clean garage again:








Should be off to fabricator tuesday or wednesday.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (fightthisfeeling)*


_Quote, originally posted by *fightthisfeeling* »_cant wait to see her finished. Whats specs on the ic your running brand/size/piping size

















I have a Garret core, measurements are 22x10x2.3 
It's pretty big. I would have liked to have gone wider but I couldn't and still kept it a 2.3" depth. I need the 2.3" due to the SRI and phelonic spacer and my desire to keep AC. If not for those things I could have gone 3" easily.
I also don't want to hack my front bumper up. it's going black and its going stealth.


----------



## LISTO14 (Dec 20, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

how many psi are you planning on?


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (LISTO14)*

i'll be running a greddy profec B spec II EBC, so I want to run a low 9psi setting and a high ~12-14psi one.
The high program will likely end up being higher down the road but this is just to start out.,...before the boost gets addicting.
At what PSI does the stock kinetic turbo start falling on its face?


----------



## Cubix (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

I love the cans of fresca


----------



## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

*Re: (Cubix)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cubix* »_I love the cans of fresca

mmm its sugar-free, refreshing, and delicious.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (Cubix)*

Dont be hating the Fresca! this project has been fueled by it. i should have taken a picture of my shed last week before the soccer kids came round fundraising on a bottle drive. there was soooo many boxes of empty fresca cans out there. that and beer. lots and lots and lots of beer. and crown royal bottles







i live with 3 guys who are all in university with me and all we do is drink... we got rid of the dinner table and put in a beer pong table.


----------



## Cubix (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

We aren't hating on it
Fresca rules!!!
I'm actually in the process of looking at this thing from beginning to end again, man what a crazy awesome project. How hard is it not to sit in the car and try to turn it on... I'd be there right now, just trying to hold myself back


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (Cubix)*

haha i actually removed the keys entirely to avoid anyone accidentally trying to start the car. I know there isn't a battery in there but still...people do stupid things.

It's tough...in fact it's killing me driving my beater 1.8L mk2 jetta around that makes less than a 1/3 of the power this will make. That and the soft squishy boat like suspension and the seats that are like a couch.
I sat in the sparco's yesterday and was in heaven....man do i miss those seats.


----------



## rickyrunamuk (Sep 13, 2004)

you've got one week noob, will she be done?


----------



## Wish it was a DE (Nov 15, 2007)

*Re: (rickyrunamuk)*

video, video, video- thats all i have to say.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (Wish it was a DE)*

if someone supplies the video camera.
The car will most likely go to the shop on wednesday, and I think he will need it a week. So late next week it should be rolling around.


----------



## fightthisfeeling (Apr 28, 2006)

whats build cost tally at the moment? i hope youve been keeping track


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (fightthisfeeling)*

i've got an excel spreadsheet with every hose clamp and vaccum line listed. 
short answer: slightly above budget, but not breaking the bank.

I saved a lot of money getting deals on things either through contacts or purchasing stuff while it was on sale.


----------



## Wish it was a DE (Nov 15, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

get ready for this thread to go on long after the build.







Alot of other noobs are going to be basing their 12v projects off of your contribution, and asking alot of questions.


----------



## onebdgti (Jan 13, 2006)

*Re: (Wish it was a DE)*

Maan I've been watchin this project from beginning till now and Iall I can say is wow!!! I'm still watin on a few pices for my build. And fundage. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

*Re: (onebdgti)*

Not to join everybody who wants at your dick for a solid thread, but this is a testament to the proper maintenance that MUST be undergone while going to forced induction. 
Looking really nice http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Sick Zipple (Sep 22, 2006)

*Re: (root beer)*


_Quote, originally posted by *root beer* »_Not to join everybody who wants at your dick for a solid thread, but this is a testament to the proper maintenance that MUST be undergone while going to forced induction. 
Looking really nice http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

well said http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (Sick Zipple)*

thanks guys for the support. if it wasn't for sites like vortex and the local vancouver forum this build wouldn't be anywhere. oh yeah alexi and scott







They are my tech support crew in india available 24/7.









I'm glad this thread helps others. I built it to help myself, so if others can get something out of it cool. I've learned so much doing this it's awesome.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

*Update: * Car will be going to the fabricator on Saturday to get done, he estimates it will take a week to do all the stuff and I should have it back by next Friday. Just in time for the weekend


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

i decided today to ditch the Morosso catch can, it was waaaaay too big. Picked up an ATP one online, should be here in a week. Worst comes to worst if car hits the road is I run some tubing under the car so any oil blowback just goes there, but I'm not expecting much.


----------



## kenavery7 (Apr 29, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

soooo nice.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (kenavery7)*

brakes and clutch are bled so the car can go back down on all 4 wheels. Filled up power steering. Will do axles when it gets up on the hoist (torque them), and install testpipe dump.


----------



## WeeZFan69 (Aug 3, 2003)

*Re: (nOOb)*

You going to get some pictures of her all finished up soon?
Is the intercooler in yet?


_Modified by WeeZFan69 at 11:32 PM 3-28-2008_


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (WeeZFan69)*

pictures will come. 
it goes off for welding tomorrow morning. should be back in a week.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

So went and got all the fluids I would need to put everything together the other day. Will be touching up things like the fan shroud and valve cover with the kiwi.









Made my ghetto brake bleeder...works really well tho. Did the brakes and clutch with it. The clutch feels exact same as stock I love it.









Threw the wheels back on and got it on the ground.









Obligatory shot....with extra FRESCA









Next step I hope will involve the following:








Spoke to the towing company they arrive at 10am tomorrow.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Bloody Canadian weather....gorgeous yesterday, now this:









Anyway I made the call last night got the flat deck ordered so the car was gonna go.
Got it outside...man i miss this thing in the daylight. Can't wait til it's done and I can give it a wash and a cutpolish.









Truck showed up so I got it into the street and loaded up. Who knew the factory tow hook was actually good for something. Luckily I knew where it was otherwise you gotta go under the car onto the steering rack and then it is too low and pulls on the VR lip.
The guy that did it for me was actually a VW owner himself and was stoked to see what was under the hood. Took a great deal of care and didn't let it scrape at all. Big props to AMA for that one, plus it was FREEEEEEEEE. Such a hassle to try and get a flatdeck though. They wanted to know why I needed it, said it wouldn't be covered if it was lowered by me so I told them it was VW european race suspension and they believed me. They wanted to put it on dollies but the rear wheels with the stretch sometimes make contact so I said no to that. They kept this guy on hold for me all morning til the shop was open where it was going. Yeah I officially own a trailer queen right now hahaha.

















































The guys are gonna pull the front end off and then we are gonna meet on monday afternoon to discuss what needs to be done. HOPEFULLY 5 days....im thinking closer to 8.
It's weird having an empty garage now.












































It's so close i can taste it in my spit


----------



## Ryan Sickles (Mar 10, 2005)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Looking good. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_They wanted to know why I needed it, said it wouldn't be covered if it was lowered by me so I told them it was VW european race suspension and they believed me. 

Hehe, done that before. 
EDIT: Why the M1 5w-50? Granted, the HTHS is higher, the Porsches run straight M1 0w-40 (from bottle) in ALMS without a problem.


_Modified by Ryan Sickles at 11:56 AM 3-29-2008_


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (Ryan Sickles)*

i've always used it and never had any issues. see no reason to change.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

oh yeah i realized i cut out the wiring that goes to the TB.....oops.
Will have to solder that back in, not a big deal i guess just an annoyance.
I labeled PCV and TB wrong and cut it out.


----------



## WeeZFan69 (Aug 3, 2003)

*Re: (nOOb)*

You should be pretty happy you a good tow truck driver, they're hard to come by. What suspension do you have on that beauty.
I was never a huge fan of MK3's, theres not many that I can say I like, but I'm really liking yours. 
Very nice car http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (WeeZFan69)*

KW coilovers.
Thanks man


----------



## aprwolfsburg (Oct 25, 2006)

*Re: (nOOb)*

congrats man, ive been watching your build since you first posted, and wish i could reach up there and shake your hand!!!










































great job!!


----------



## billiethebutcher (Sep 24, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_ Will do axles when it gets up on the hoist (torque them), and install testpipe dump.









just wondering what you mean by this?
also im from phonix az, whats all the white sh!t on the gtound?








car looks tighter than vise grips!


----------



## AlexiGTIVR6 (Jul 21, 2000)

*Re: (billiethebutcher)*

almost there.http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif You'll be boosting soon enough


----------



## Cubix (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: (AlexiGTIVR6)*

This is the perfect time to decide to follow the trend and scrap the project to go on to other thing
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
You should cut the top and bottom off a can of fresca, unroll it and weld it around the intercooler pipe
VR6 powered with the fresh taste of Fresca


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (billiethebutcher)*


_Quote, originally posted by *billiethebutcher* »_
just wondering what you mean by this?
also im from phonix az, whats all the white sh!t on the gtound?








car looks tighter than vise grips!


i picked up my parents from the airport last night and drove them back to their place, they are just coming back from phoenix. said it was like 30*C yesterday and arrived back to -8*C and snow. Woke up this morning to 6" of the crap on the ground. Glad I got this all done yesterday hahaha.

Back to igloos and icefishing for us. Gotta put a VR-Turbo into the dogsled so I can get around a little faster.


----------



## Fastbreakstar22 (Nov 4, 2005)

*Re: (RipCity Euros)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RipCity Euros* »_
Its just a valve welded into the exhaust that opens under boost to relieve pressure, and increase exhaust flow, increasing the ability for the turbo to spool... and they sound wickid when open

















Not to rejack the thread but where can i find of these nice toys? I couldnt find one. i have a 2.5" TT exhaust. and where exactly do you weld this in along with the exhaust? after the cat but before the resonator? and do you need to open the connection between the dp and the WG too?


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (Fastbreakstar22)*

I took the valve off of a 330 BMW.
It uses the same kind of concept and with some slick check valves and boost controllers you can set it to open only after a certain PSI.
I am chopping out my cat, putting in a test pipe and T'ing it right off of there. But you could run it right before your cat if you could figure out a way to move the cat back a bit.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Also my WG routes back into the DP and the dump is right after the DP so it's super slick.


----------



## Fastbreakstar22 (Nov 4, 2005)

True. I need one of these...
No other idea where I could get one?


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (Fastbreakstar22)*

R32 muffler, BMW 330 muffler, M3 muffler, A3 muffler
Just go to a wrecker and ask if they have any of the above cars in, or see if they can bring you in the rear muffler for one. it'll cost you less than $100 for the muffler, then just cut the valve off and take the muffler to a scrap yard for scrap $$$. easy as pie.


----------



## u01rwr (Mar 6, 2004)

*Re: (Fastbreakstar22)*

http://www.atpturbo.com/root/r...4.htm



_Modified by u01rwr at 9:21 PM 3-31-2008_


----------



## AlexiGTIVR6 (Jul 21, 2000)

*Re: (u01rwr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *u01rwr* »_http://www.atpturbo.com/root/r...4.htm
_Modified by u01rwr at 9:21 PM 3-31-2008_

The ATP VES has been on back order for ever now. 
http://www.atpturbo.com/Mercha...e=BCS
Thats why I made mine from an OEM Valve and why Rondal is doing the same.


----------



## Mr.BooMY (Jul 8, 2006)

This car is just plain fat nuggets!! I can't wait to see the completely finished product. I'm sure you'll pop a massive boner the first time you get it cranked up and drive it. I know I would if it were my car.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (u01rwr)*

that thing has been on backorder since baby jesus was born in the manger. it's a sick setup, but costs more and is impossible to find. I have spent the last 8 months looking for one used on about 6 different car forums with zero luck. 
go OEM off of a muffler. it's the exact same thing.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

we are shooting for next tuesday for me to take delivery of the car. the guy is going on vacation and hopes to have it done by then. if not i gotta wait an extra week so im gonna be pushing to get it back big time.
i cant bloody wait.


----------



## 626818 (Jul 19, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Herr Smurf. When this monster is awakened, I wish to be there! It's only a 5.5 hour drive down (with two F***ing ferries) and I would love to hear this beast roar (besides, the Sechelt Peninsula is a blast to drive!) and see it blast up and down the streets of Vancouver.
Big props to you for tackling such a project http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (626818)*

it's actually not sitting in Vancouver at the moment, it's a little further inland (7 hours) but don't fret it will be making its way back to the coast soon enough.
I was hoping to have it ready to hit up DCI this year but with the tight timeline, the shakedown period, and the stooopid weather we have been having its not worth it.


----------



## rickyrunamuk (Sep 13, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Hey noob swing by kamloops on your way through.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (rickyrunamuk)*

i always come through 'loops on the way through. Chevron with WhiteSpot FTW!


----------



## fightthisfeeling (Apr 28, 2006)

they still have the races on saturday nights in KL? its not far from kelowna


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (fightthisfeeling)*

i have no idea i'm not from there at all. I just pass through in the wee hours of the morning during my cannonball runs between oiltown and the coast


----------



## DHill (Jan 8, 2002)

*Re: (Fastbreakstar22)*









I honestly never made the connection concerning that tow ring... it's been sitting in my spare tire well for years but I never thought about what it was supposed to do. Now I know!


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

you can have a race car too then hahaha


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

went and checked it out at the shop today....its looking like hot sex.


----------



## Cubix (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*










*The opinions expressed in this reply are considered awesome and very well reflect the actual awsomenacity of the poster*


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (Cubix)*

rofl.


----------



## aprwolfsburg (Oct 25, 2006)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_went and checked it out at the shop today....its looking like hot sex.

no pictures of the the hot sex


----------



## stealthmk1 (Aug 17, 2001)

*Re: (aprwolfsburg)*


_Quote, originally posted by *aprwolfsburg* »_
no pictures of the the hot sex









I'm good on pics of noob having hot sex with his bright blue car.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (stealthmk1)*

soooooooooo........ 9" is the tallest you can go if you want to run AC condensor in the front hahahaha.




























































gonna have to trim the bottom row off the cooler cause its hanging way too low as it is haha. and then trim a little more out of the top rebar to get it in there nice and tight.
I forgot when i did all my measurements that I didn't have the condensor there. And everyone else I asked on the matter had deleted their condensors as well. Whooops.
Oh well it's an easy fix. Things are coming along well tho.


























_Modified by nOOb at 11:14 AM 4-3-2008_


----------



## cloors (Sep 27, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

I've been following this thread since the beginning, and I can't wait to see this done!


----------



## dilumari (Jan 26, 2008)

*Re: (nOOb)*

enlighten me pls.. can you just trim the bottom IC just like that? no fluid etc dripping?


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (dilumari)*

there is no fluid in an intercooler, just air passing through it.
an IC is divided into compartments that pass air through it, seperated by compartments of small fins that disappate the heat. you can basically cut an IC in half if you want so long as you leave the enclosed compartments for the air intact so they are useable.


----------



## dilumari (Jan 26, 2008)

hey, when are you gonna get the car back?? Once you get it running, you gotta post a video of it!


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (dilumari)*

i dont know when its coming back now. the guy was supposed to work on it this weekend before he goes away but i dont think that happend. 
im gonna be UBER choked if i dont get it back this week.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

just got off the phone with welder and i should take delivery tomorrow afternoon. YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY


----------



## Grits 'n gravy (Mar 30, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Pictures and vids imediately after taking delivery please.


----------



## 708VR6 (May 20, 2006)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_just got off the phone with welder and i should take delivery tomorrow afternoon. YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY
















SHWEET!







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (708VR6)*

dont worry there will be a lot of pictures hahaha.
within about 15 minutes of me getting off the phone and talking to 1 person on msn i had phone calls and msn messages from people asking what time i was heading down there cause they wanted to come to.
papa smurf can get an escort all the way home so I can hook up the headlights and EBC haha.
i am so excited but so bloody nervous. i am so worried it wont turn over, or something bad is gonna go wrong. please VW gods...spare me the headache just this once.


----------



## aprwolfsburg (Oct 25, 2006)

*Re: (nOOb)*

congrats!! and good luck with the shake down drive


----------



## dilumari (Jan 26, 2008)

i think you've been very thorough with all the procedures so it should run fine..


----------



## B4 Slapshot (Mar 27, 2008)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Dude this is an amazing thread!
very thorough and covers everything in great detail
you think your a n00b i am one of the ultimate n00bs but this thread has helped me so much with understanding where everything is and what everything does. 
I cant wait to see the finished product.
enjoy the drive man


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (B4 Slapshot)*

i was like that as well...that's why i started taking photos and it's why i made the thread.
9 more hours......


----------



## aprwolfsburg (Oct 25, 2006)

*Re: (nOOb)*

we are waiting for the money shots!!!!


----------



## opydocorrado (Oct 26, 2007)

*Re: (aprwolfsburg)*

**** this thing still ain;t on the road! My deadline is coming next week! Holy you should be happy you didn't hav to piss around with the fuse box and some of the wiring! IT's a MASSIVE PAIN...like a ****ING RATS NEST!lol, but yea DEF gotta post a VID or something i wanna hear this thing http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

hopefully this appeases some of you for 24 hours.
will have more details to follow


----------



## Grits 'n gravy (Mar 30, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Moar.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

after tonite. i was so tired last night. 
i barely slept monday night due to the nervousness/excitement of getting the car back. 
there should be a big update coming soon. it should make everyone happy. i promise


----------



## Fastbreakstar22 (Nov 4, 2005)

Is that a different FMIC?
Looks snazzy.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (Fastbreakstar22)*

no it just has end tanks now hahaha


----------



## opydocorrado (Oct 26, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

HOLY **** , that;s soo badass!!!!


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

pic of it apart


----------



## dilumari (Jan 26, 2008)

hey bro, you didn't post any pics of how to take apart the front bumper right?? Where can I find directions to take it out?


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (dilumari)*

Have a look at your bentley it shows the diagrams.
Step 1: undo the screws along the top fo the rad support the attach to the grille. They are really small.
Step 2: Carefully pop the little grill clips through and take the grille off. Its really easy to snap them so be careful.
Step3: Undo the bolts holding the headslights in that are now visable
Step 4: You will also now see all the bolts along the top of the bumper skin that must be undone. Also down on the top side of the large inner opening in the bumper where my FMIC now sits there is 4 i think that have to be undone.
Presto...bumper off.
I will take pics for you as I put the bumper on.


----------



## dilumari (Jan 26, 2008)

Ok thanks! I guess I am more worried about the rad and ac. I would like to check the SAI without draining any fluid.


_Modified by dilumari at 8:09 PM 4-9-2008_


----------



## wagsGTI (Sep 17, 2006)

*Re: (dilumari)*

are you going to give us a final tally on expenses used??????

This is a nice build


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (dilumari)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dilumari* »_Ok thanks! I guess I am more worried about the rad and ac. I would like to check the SAI without draining any fluid.

_Modified by dilumari at 8:09 PM 4-9-2008_

once you get to that point of the bumper off it is possible to undo the rebar and rad support and swing the rad and ac about a foot out from the passenger side which will give you enough room to look at the SAI.
Back on like page 1 you can kinda see how i did this.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (wagsGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *wagsGTI* »_are you going to give us a final tally on expenses used??????

This is a nice build


I'd rather not. I did save a lot by getting most things on sale or wheelin' and dealin' for things. handed out my fair share of sexual favors for cheap parts.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Some more pics:

































































What I got up to tonite:









Ran all the boost and electrical wiring/tubing for the boost gauge, electronic boost controller, external fuel pump. Wired up the throttle body sensor I missed, and test fit the catch can.
I need to find some blue hose so it matches the stuff for the DV and need to position it better but you ge the jist.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

So I am going to wire in the boost and power for the solenoid and Greddy EBC tonite.
Few questions for those running them:
Alexi I still have your vaccum/boost diagram and have been using it. I penciled in how the plumbing goes to the solenoid as;
-tap into line running from the side of the WG to the manifold with a T.
-run a line from the TOP of the WG to the solenoid, then from the other port on the solenoid to the T in the above location to tie it all in.
If that is still correct I have the following question;
-Which 2 ports am I connecting lines to, and which line goes to which port?
-There are 3 places I can tap into on the solenoid itself

















I'm reading the Greddy install manual but i'm not 100% sure which setup of the 5 or 6 different variations they have, fits my application, and it isn't totally clear what line you have running in where.

Also I want to mount my EBC in the cubby hole with the flip up between the seats, where would be the best place to draw power from? Obviously I can extend the lines if I have to its not a big deal.


----------



## veedub2.8 (Sep 1, 2007)

cannot wait to see this thing in action!


----------



## stealthmk1 (Aug 17, 2001)

*Re: (veedub2.8)*

pics of the IC to TB piping plz.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (stealthmk1)*

i need a tripod and a floodlight. i cant hold my hand steady enough and the flash wont get in there as it hits leading edges and casts shadows.

otherwise i would have a shot of it.

no one on the greddy stuff?


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Alright so a buddy showed me which diagram I need to be using from the greddy manual, and I have set up the solenoid with the right barbs in the right ports.
Still one question remains..... where do I tee into to get whatever has to go to the EBC main control unit?
Here is a pic of the instructions:








It doesn't say anything about that boost line i have circled with the filter on it or where it comes from. Can I simply tee into the same line I have running through my fire wall for my seperate boost gauge or does this have to be super accurate with as little stuff going into it as possible?
Currently I have T'd off of the line between the manifold and the FPR and run a line for my seperate boost gauge and the exhaust dump under the car. 
I have a 6mm line running from the lower port on the wastegate to the manifold, and will be running a seperate line from the top of the wastegate to the solenoid and then T back into that same 6mm line.
I'm just confused as to where this seperate line to the main control comes from? it doesn't really mention anything about it in the manual?


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

I dont know if i need to be going off of page 7 of this: http://www.greddy.com/img/PHP/products/pdf/682.pdf
or what? i can't tell if it is specific to the actuator type or who its for?


----------



## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*

the solinoid should be between the turbo and the wastegate. you do not want it going to the manifold. the line with the filter needs to come off the manifold


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (bonesaw)*

It just has to be somewhere in the charge piping I have been told between the cold side of the turbo and the engine. The manifold does that.

if you read #5 in the above picture it even says its fine


_Modified by nOOb at 12:05 AM 4-11-2008_


----------



## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*

it says to connect to turbo not to the intake manifold. you could put it in the charge pipe but the closer to the turbo the more accurate it will be.


----------



## opydocorrado (Oct 26, 2007)

*Re: (bonesaw)*

DEAR NOOB..i am at the stage of putting my clutch in! I am stuck on UNDOING THE SCREWS off the FLYWHEEL..CAN YOU PLEASE SHARE ON HOW YOU UNDID THEM ratehr then put them on!? I cna't get the FLYWHEEL TO STOP MOVING






















ANOTHER QUESTION if there is a little bit of PINK stuff from the coolant around the coolant reservoir..should you replace it or is it still good!/?


----------



## JarrettJettaVR6 (Jul 10, 2005)

so i just read through all this and had to subscribe to see the happy ending


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (opydocorrado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *opydocorrado* »_DEAR NOOB..i am at the stage of putting my clutch in! I am stuck on UNDOING THE SCREWS off the FLYWHEEL..CAN YOU PLEASE SHARE ON HOW YOU UNDID THEM ratehr then put them on!? I cna't get the FLYWHEEL TO STOP MOVING






















ANOTHER QUESTION if there is a little bit of PINK stuff from the coolant around the coolant reservoir..should you replace it or is it still good!/?










search back to the pics of the flywheel install and you will see a picture of a wrench bolted to the flywheel to stop it from spinning. thats how you do it. magic









the pink stuff is from a leak. The G12 dries up and tries to seal small leaks itself but that is evidence of the leak. Try and clean it up and see if you can spot where its coming from. Then you can determine whether or not to replace it.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

So I'm super bummed this is not done [email protected] pissing me off to no end. Stupid little sh!t and people flaking out at the last minute on things but it will get there. Big props to my buddy Rob who came over todaya dn helped me do the electrical for everything.
So.....
Someone tell me what's wrong with this picture....and no its not the jetta missing half its front lip haha









Hooked up the stuff for the solenoid on the EBC using the correct ports









Pulled the seat out to make life easier, pulled the wires all through the firewall and popped apart the dash and trim so i could wire in the boost gauge, EBC, external fuel pump.









The EBC finally wired in....super slick.
























Rob testing all the electrical stuff









My other mod of the day....to keep me motivated. Made this for the vortex folks.
















.
.
.
.
.
*Still to do:*
1. Install Fuel Pump
2. Install 2 bolts on turbo/manifold
3. Torque axles
4. Install Headlights
5. Relay Headlights
6. Plumb in dump (need spring for MBC)
7. Go through EVERYTHING
8. Install battery
9. Start car........
There's a day of work left....just need a hand to get it done from people who know what they are doing. It's always easier that way.


_Modified by nOOb at 10:33 PM 4-13-2008_


----------



## onebdgti (Jan 13, 2006)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Yeah its a beautiful day and your not out enjoying it.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (onebdgti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *onebdgti* »_Yeah its a beautiful day and your not out enjoying it.

looks across the street


----------



## Cubix (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

I was just going to inquire about where the fresca was!
Edit
Are you mounting it on the side like that?
Wouldn't that allow the oil to run out of the breather?


----------



## stealthmk1 (Aug 17, 2001)

*Re: (Cubix)*

mount the catch can to the strut tower where the studs already are. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Cubix (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: (stealthmk1)*

Run some tubing inside the car and set it up so when you hit boost ice cold Fresca is delivered to you via Direct Mouth Injection (DMI)
You would need another EBC (Electronic Beverage Controller) and could use USRTs meth/alcohol injection and a small radiator to control the temprature.
By adding a WG (waste gate) to the front seat, the driver can ensure no unecessary rest stops while using the system.
Increasing the size of the ABR (awesome beverage reservoir) will exponentially increase the amount of enjoyment on could expect while using the system.
While illegal to drive with the cylinders connected, one could install AAS (alcohol addition system) to the AMV (automatic mix valve) and increase the potability of the Fresca. Remember, this latter system is for off road use only.


----------



## JPS95gti (Jun 27, 2003)

*Re: (Cubix)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
just another post on how greatly appreciated this post is. im currently trying to hold off timing chains to get some cash for the entire build. 
but once again, im glad someone has done such a detailed step-by-step.
impatience is a bitc h but its gotta be well worth it.
have fun!


----------



## Damarus (Jul 21, 2007)

*Re: (JPS95gti)*

been following this post since the begining
just wanna say good job/good luck and sexy car http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## aprwolfsburg (Oct 25, 2006)

*Re: (Cubix)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cubix* »_Run some tubing inside the car and set it up so when you hit boost ice cold Fresca is delivered to you via Direct Mouth Injection (DMI)
You would need another EBC (Electronic Beverage Controller) and could use USRTs meth/alcohol injection and a small radiator to control the temprature.
By adding a WG (waste gate) to the front seat, the driver can ensure no unecessary rest stops while using the system.
Increasing the size of the ABR (awesome beverage reservoir) will exponentially increase the amount of enjoyment on could expect while using the system.
While illegal to drive with the cylinders connected, one could install AAS (alcohol addition system) to the AMV (automatic mix valve) and increase the potability of the Fresca. Remember, this latter system is for off road use only.

THATS SOME FUNNY SHHHITTE!!!!


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (stealthmk1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stealthmk1* »_mount the catch can to the strut tower where the studs already are. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


its too tall, i looked at doing that


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (Cubix)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cubix* »_I was just going to inquire about where the fresca was!
Edit
Are you mounting it on the side like that?
Wouldn't that allow the oil to run out of the breather?

no i will have to mount it at a slight angle but not the way it is now. Was just doing it for effect.


----------



## dilumari (Jan 26, 2008)

hey noob, what are we waiting for again?


----------



## Vortexpert (Apr 17, 2008)

*Re: (dilumari)*

this is the best build i have seen in a long time. i give you my stamp of approval http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## jda487 (Apr 10, 2008)

*Re: (nOOb)*









Sorry if you posted this and I missed it, epic long thread.
The car looks amazing and this thread is incredible!


----------



## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: (jda487)*

atp turbo


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (jda487)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jda487* »_








Sorry if you posted this and I missed it, epic long thread.
The car looks amazing and this thread is incredible!


I got it from ATP turbo and then did the fresca mod


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (dilumari)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dilumari* »_hey noob, what are we waiting for again?


few minor things....fabricator just got back from vacation and we are going to sort them out and then we should be good to go.

not that i owe any of you lazy buggers an apology..... but sorry for the delay







hahahaha.
been too busy at work this week to give it any time or devotion. as bad as i want it done.


----------



## jda487 (Apr 10, 2008)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Nice, the Fresca mod is sweet!
Is this it? http://www.atpturbo.com/Mercha...e=BCS








Damn that thing looks sweet but the price is a little more than I wanna spend








Thanks! 


_Modified by jda487 at 5:20 PM 4-17-2008_


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (jda487)*

yes that's it....and yes it was more expensive than i wanted too. i could have made one....but when i worked out the pricing and getting someone to weld some stuff up it wasn't going to be much cheaper.


----------



## jda487 (Apr 10, 2008)

*Re: (nOOb)*

I might just jam a filter on a piece of hose and connect it to the engine side and put a plug on the intake side







There are some other hoses coming off of it... I'll grab some pics and maybe you can explain what they do and where they go... my guess is SAI.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (jda487)*

the other stuff is emissions. problem with just putting a filter on the hose is if you do get oil coming through the system it needs somewhere to accumulate and that place with your setup will be anything surrounding where you choose to put your filter.
honestly i find the ATP one kinda big. I dont plan on having much if any come through. Tho higher boost does lead to better chances of it coming through.
something with like a 250mL capacity would be more than enough, and small enough to go almost anywhere


----------



## sp00l0nu (Feb 1, 2008)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_the other stuff is emissions. problem with just putting a filter on the hose is if you do get oil coming through the system it needs somewhere to accumulate and that place with your setup will be anything surrounding where you choose to put your filter.
honestly i find the ATP one kinda big. I dont plan on having much if any come through. Tho higher boost does lead to better chances of it coming through.
something with like a 250mL capacity would be more than enough, and small enough to go almost anywhere

Dude I was running a setup like that witha vented catch can, and let me tell you that the fumes will eventually drive you insane. specially being on the passenger side because its going to go into the car. I would recirculate the fumes back to the intake, you shouldn't get any oil unless you start to get a lot of blowby. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Also, I can't find the page that has your ARP head stud torque specs on it, thanks for letting me know you had that up though, it's a huge help. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
















_Modified by sp00l0nu at 10:22 AM 4-18-2008_


_Modified by sp00l0nu at 10:23 AM 4-18-2008_


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (sp00l0nu)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sp00l0nu* »_
Dude I was running a setup like that witha vented catch can, and let me tell you that the fumes will eventually drive you insane. specially being on the passenger side because its going to go into the car. I would recirculate the fumes back to the intake, you shouldn't get any oil unless you start to get a lot of blowby. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Also, I can't find the page that has your ARP head stud torque specs on it, thanks for letting me know you had that up though, it's a huge help. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
















_Modified by sp00l0nu at 10:22 AM 4-18-2008_

_Modified by sp00l0nu at 10:23 AM 4-18-2008_

even with the filter you were getting lots of fumes? weird.
I will see how it goes, if I have to reroute back into the intake so be it. I really dont want oil in my intake however.


----------



## sp00l0nu (Feb 1, 2008)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_
even with the filter you were getting lots of fumes? weird.
I will see how it goes, if I have to reroute back into the intake so be it. I really dont want oil in my intake however.

yeah, a lot. I think it was more because I had 5 pistons with cracked ringlands.








I just rebuild the motor though and will be starting her up soon.
I think that with good compression, and minimal blowby, there should be no oil in the intake if you route it back in. What I recommend is doing a leakdown test to check for possible piston ring damage or unusual blowby if you start seeing more than a few drops of oil. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_
Here is an interesting one. The ports on the intake are quite a bit smaller than that on the head. Obviously I can't overlay the head on the intake and still have you see it, but using the phelonic spacer you can really see the difference. I wonder if its worth down the road to port that out slightly to get more flow? 










I stopped following this thread for a little while, but when i re-read it, i saw that ^^^. I dont know if anyone has commented on it, but its possible the manufacturer of the intake manifold (wagner?) made the ports smaller than the intake ports on the head to fight reversion. Just how people port out exhaust manifolds to stop exhaust gases flowing backwards into the head, sometimes people port out the intake ports on the HEAD to stop reversion of gases back into the intake manifold. 
Oh and nice build http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif keep up the good work


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (RipCity Euros)*

made on the local forum i am on...my username is RONDAL....thought this was pretty funny hahaha


----------



## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*


----------



## Vortexpert (Apr 17, 2008)

*Re: (nOOb)*

noob- im too lazy to finger back 15+ pages for the pictures. can you show "all the pipe that was laid", turbo, intercooler and intake. thanks. 
i give this turbo build my approval! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (Vortexpert)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Vortexpert* »_noob- im too lazy to finger back 15+ pages for the pictures. can you show "all the pipe that was laid", turbo, intercooler and intake. thanks. 
i give this turbo build my approval! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


go back one page hahahaa.
its hard to photo....cause its hidden nicely.

you guys....and myself, should be very happy in about 5 days i figure.
its snowing again here....so no drive anyway.


----------



## stealthmk1 (Aug 17, 2001)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_
its snowing again here....so no drive anyway.









ahem...85*F here today.








Sorry, had to do it.
You still win tho, my car wont be turbo'd for another 4 months or so.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (stealthmk1)*

i wish it was that. its -2*C here. snowed like 6" this afternoon. They just cleaned all the gravel off the roads too. oh well car is being flat decked tomorrow to where it needs to go.


----------



## jda487 (Apr 10, 2008)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_i wish it was that. its -2*C here. snowed like 6" this afternoon. They just cleaned all the gravel off the roads too. oh well car is being flat decked tomorrow to where it needs to go.









Same thing here... Floating around zero today with a butt-tonne of snow/slush/ice/water everywhere. I just about wrapped my Golf around a couple of geriatrics in a brand new Civic when I had to jam on the breaks to avoid someone else who was skidding and I started sliding. What was running through my head was "well, at least I'll F-up that Civic"...


----------



## Cubix (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: (jda487)*

You know, I don't see MSD packs on that car
I can no longer endorse this project
though, the fresca on the othe hand....


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (Cubix)*

if the stock one fails....then i can go with MSD. but i'm not spending money on MSD ones while the stock ones work fine.


----------



## Cubix (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Yea, I was just busting your chops


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (Cubix)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cubix* »_Yea, I was just busting your chops


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Why I can't do be bothered to do anything to my car right now; Smurf Figure Skating Rink Mod FTL http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif
























*How to build a boost actuated dump:*
1. Get a vaccum actuated exhaust valve off a BMW 330, M3, Audi A3 or R32.
2. Build one of these:








*dont worry all the vaccum lines are now pushed on all the way and have clamps on them. Before any of you get on me for that.

3. Parts you will need: Vaccum tubing, Manual Boost controller (I used spare kinetic one I had), One way vaccum check valve
4. Looking at the picture left to right; the hose on the left hooks up to your vaccum source (intake manifold), the check valve allows airflow from right to left (towards manifold), remove the one brass barb with the hole in it and replace with one without the hole, install as seen. Attach the vaccum on the far right to the exhaust valve.
5. Voila'....boost actuated dump which you can adjust to open at whatever PSI you want.

Fresca mod now installed and mounted properly.









Car is at the shop getting some odds and ends I wasn't 100% with getting buttoned up, will DRIVE home from the shop this time. Once the bloody weather clears up.
ETA = the weekend.


----------



## jda487 (Apr 10, 2008)

Will your intake be pulling cold air from there? Just wondering, I've modded my intake, it looks a lot like yours except probably a few inches further back. I was trying to figure a good way to move it forward and "down" further...


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (jda487)*

I think any cold air it pulls is really negated by the fact it then heats it up with the turbo compressing it, and then cools it as it passes through the FMIC.
I have tried to keep heat sources in the engine bay minimized, ceramic coating most of the hot parts, and relocating the TB and intake to the front of the car, and maximizing the FMIC size.
I guess you cant go wrong with cold air, but the few degrees I may save relocating the filter are minimized by all the other things. And it becomes a cost benefit analysis of is it really worth it. This isn't a dyno queen, drag queen, or show car. Its a highway and backroads bahnstormer.


----------



## jda487 (Apr 10, 2008)

*Re:  (nOOb)*

I just wanna go fast.
I'm thinking of fashioning a baffle to direct moar cold air up towards the intake.
Very good point in that a few degrees is less crucial when you're adding pressure and intercooling.... PV = nRT ftw.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (jda487)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jda487* »_I just wanna go fast.
I'm thinking of fashioning a baffle to direct moar cold air up towards the intake.
Very good point in that a few degrees is less crucial when you're adding pressure and intercooling.... PV = nRT ftw.

if your in sask you should make the drive out for one of the calgary shows. there are always a few sask people that come out. my gf is from yorkton and makes the trip every 2 weeks.


----------



## dtm337 (Jun 11, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*

dont forget to plug the intake tube hole .....


----------



## sp00l0nu (Feb 1, 2008)

*Re: (dtm337)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dtm337* »_dont forget to plug the intake tube hole .....









so important, If you dont do it you'll go crazy thinking you have either a bad maf, or a vac leak. the car will run like pure @ss if you dont. Good call!







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (dtm337)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dtm337* »_dont forget to plug the intake tube hole .....









oh do worry thats on the list for the welder.


----------



## JarrettJettaVR6 (Jul 10, 2005)

*Re: (dtm337)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dtm337* »_dont forget to plug the intake tube hole .....









what is this referring to? can you point it out in a picture? thanks


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (JarrettJettaVR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JarrettJettaVR6* »_
what is this referring to? can you point it out in a picture? thanks

this is the hole he is referring to. it is after the filter and the MAF and is the hole the PCV return line should plug into, but i run a catchcan now so no need.


----------



## JarrettJettaVR6 (Jul 10, 2005)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_
this is the hole he is referring to. it is after the filter and the MAF and is the hole the PCV return line should plug into, but i run a catchcan now so no need.


thanks so much


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (JarrettJettaVR6)*

snow is melting.....slowly.
man they threw down so much gravel. gonna need to invest in a street sweeper as well as a fuel tanker truck haha


----------



## jda487 (Apr 10, 2008)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Gas is $1.279 here. And the roads are covered in ice. I'm thinking of just driving my car into a pole, saving myself the grief.


----------



## stealthmk1 (Aug 17, 2001)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_snow is melting.....slowly.
man they threw down so much gravel. gonna need to invest in a street sweeper as well as a fuel tanker truck haha

at least you guys dont get the salt


----------



## fightthisfeeling (Apr 28, 2006)

*Re: (stealthmk1)*

yea or mag chloride that **** eats every possible connection and piece of matter in its path.







to progress.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (fightthisfeeling)*

oh we get salt too. but its pickled into the gravel as it isn't effective below -10*C or there abouts. THis is why I garage my car every winter in its heated hideaway.


----------



## TallaiMan (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*

I finished my turbo build before you... I guess your username says it all.








Your setup looks awesome; I can't wait to see numbers! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (TallaiMan)*

Like I said before....finishing it early really had no advantage, i cant drive it due to the weather







http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 

just gives me a reason to do something stupid and break something due to crap road conditions


----------



## rickyrunamuk (Sep 13, 2004)

Cold tires suck.Last November I allmost wrote the raddo off, came out of the cozyclean car wash,it was to cold to wash the car at home, finished by setting the the dial to tire cleaner not realizing stuff was slicker than goose sh#t, got a little aggresive getting onto the freeway entry ramp, Ive never had a car get away from me so violently and so fast, nothing I could do to save it took my hands off the wheel, whipped 180 degrees and jumped the curb and got hung up on some soft gravel at the top of a 30 foot embankment, embarrassing as hell as there was a full audience at the travel centre, Ass end was sticking up in the air like a ostrich with its head in the sand. Turbo's and poor traction are a dangerous mix. Ikes


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (rickyrunamuk)*

hence why i need some warm weather hahaha


----------



## bsktbllmn23 (Apr 3, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

sick thread!! great build! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

lock up your cats.....monday the car comes back on the road.


----------



## Cubix (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*


----------



## jda487 (Apr 10, 2008)

*Re: (nOOb)*

My stupid cat needs to go to the vet... urinary tract problem. Not the end of the world but it sucked having to choose whether it was justified to wait until morning to not have to pay "emergency" vet fees to take him last night. He's been acting a bit funny for a few days so I've had him on special food but now he really needs to go, he's obviously in pain.
Unexpected expenses suck... especially when you've spent money you didn't need to, see some things coming up that are going to be expensive (gf's birthday, preventative maintenance on the car, fun stuff for the car, unnecessary but omgiwants stuff for the car etc) all the while I am trying to pay down debt and get my finances in order to buy a lot and start building a house.
Anyway... the cat...
http://shinobi.hopto.org/~jame....html <--- random pics off my camera, done with Lightroom, great program
http://shinobi.hopto.org/~james/
http://www.facebook.com/photo....05244
And you can find him on my Facebook page as well...
Totally off topic... anyway, if you bring that hotrod to S'toon I'll definitely keep him locked up lol.


----------



## Cubix (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: (jda487)*

oi man that blows
I had to take my cat in twice for that
say my engine rebuild fund go from big to 0........








He's lucky he's damn cute or i'd eat him


----------



## jda487 (Apr 10, 2008)

*Re: (Cubix)*

Thanks man.... looks like it isn't too bad but I haven't got the bill yet lol. Hopefully only a couple hundred... puts off new cams for a bit I guess







Oh well.


----------



## VR6OOM (Nov 8, 2002)

*Re: (jda487)*

Fwiw...a rubber cane cap (the part that touches the ground on a cane) bought from Ace Hardware fits perfectly over the pcv port on the intake pipe.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

dont worry it is getting ground off and a cap welded in place.
snow is finally melting. which is a bonus


----------



## Vortexpert (Apr 17, 2008)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_
snow is finally melting. which is a bonus

ha! snow.. nOOb its 90F right now. 
hope the car runs smooth


----------



## Soren (Oct 31, 2000)

*Re: (Vortexpert)*


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (Soren)*

to explain the cat picture so people stop IM'ing me.....
Leavenworth Cruise 3 years ago I somehow managed to hit a cat at a good rate of speed up at the pass on the way back. If anyone has been on the cruise you may be asking yourself WTF is a cat doing all the way out there in the middle of nowhere. I'm still asking myself that question.
I munched it with the front bumper, banged it around under the car, and spat it out the back where it spun and twisted about 7' in the air, causing the cars speeding up my rear to swerve to avoid it. 
somehow the thing lived and ran away. dunno how. i hit it at about 140-160km/h.


----------



## Cubix (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

haha i love the pictures


----------



## sc_rufctr (Jun 28, 2007)

*Re: (Cubix)*

I can't help myself but..... After reading some recent posts.
Are MK3 owners more likely to be cat people?
I have a cat and his name is Venny. He's an American shorthair with a liking of birds and mice... lol...


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (sc_rufctr)*

my car definetly likes cats......for lunch


----------



## opydocorrado (Oct 26, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

crazy story....







who would have thought that cat would have gotten out of an incident like that








there go 8 of it's lives















can someone take a pic of the area around there started motor....please also couple days from getting my car back on the road and have to make sure i got the wires all hooked up correctly...thnks, http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (opydocorrado)*

there is lots of photos of the starter area, look for the pics of the engine reinstallation. you will also note that i installed it upside down the first time, and then corrected it.


----------



## shortshiften (Mar 29, 2005)

so when's this thing hitting the street


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

im hoping in about 7 hours.


----------



## ChOp_V-DuB (Mar 19, 2008)

your making a video with this beast on the road right??


----------



## sp00l0nu (Feb 1, 2008)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_im hoping in about 7 hours.


Hey man, I'm happy to hear that your project is complete. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I was wondering if you had a picture of the DV and explain how you have it hooked up. I'm about to install a frontmount and I'm not to sure how it goes. Thanks man http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by sp00l0nu at 12:23 PM 4-28-2008_


----------



## sp00l0nu (Feb 1, 2008)

Never mind man, I just noticed a picture you have and got what I needed, thanks anyway man. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

this is why i almost dont want to post a timeline......now wont be getting it today....supoosed to be tomorrow.
i just want my caaaaaaaaaar!


----------



## Hassenpheffer13 (Jan 19, 2008)

*Re: (Cubix)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cubix* »_









LMAO that is one great movie.


----------



## Cubix (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

NO CAR FOR YOU!


----------



## jda487 (Apr 10, 2008)

*Re: (Cubix)*








Where is it?


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (Cubix)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cubix* »_NO CAR FOR YOU!









funnily enough i've already been sent that pic with that comment this morning.


----------



## Cubix (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

hahahahahahahahahhaa
That rules
lets toss back a fresca


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (Cubix)*

fired it up tonite. was running with a lumpy idle and pissed oil from the oil cooler. I think I need to go back and put some more high temp sealer on the threads down there.
Gotta go over all the vaccum lines and see if there is a leak causing the weird idle


----------



## ChOp_V-DuB (Mar 19, 2008)

*Re: (nOOb)*

aww man that sucks!!


----------



## Cubix (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: (ChOp_V-DuB)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ChOp_V-DuB* »_aww man that sucks!!

It's the nature of the beast
VW's are always like that after a project.
Tweak time!


----------



## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (Cubix)*

didn't you cam it? lopey idle would be normal wouldn't it? after my build i had an idle that was out of whack and it turned out my injectors popped out of the seats and were creating a pretty massive vac leak.


----------



## ChOp_V-DuB (Mar 19, 2008)

*Re: (Cubix)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cubix* »_
It's the nature of the beast
*VW's are always like that after a project.
Tweak time!*

Yea you are right!!


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (ChOp_V-DuB)*

I know there is going to be teething issues, especially on a build like this that was my first one.
It comes with the territory. All I have to do for the oil is remove the thermostatic plate, throw some high temp thread sealer onto the threads and the fittings and reinstall. Will have to buy some more oil but oh well.
The car only ran for less than 2 minutes, so I dont know if the throttle body adapted and all that and whether the software had a chance to get all sorted out.


----------



## Sick Zipple (Sep 22, 2006)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_I know there is going to be teething issues, especially on a build like this that was my first one.
It comes with the territory. All I have to do for the oil is remove the thermostatic plate, throw some high temp thread sealer onto the threads and the fittings and reinstall. Will have to buy some more oil but oh well.
The car only ran for less than 2 minutes, so I dont know if the throttle body adapted and all that and whether the software had a chance to get all sorted out.

either way... IT RUNS!!!


----------



## Cubix (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: (Sick Zipple)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Sick Zipple* »_
either way... IT RUNS!!!








is your refridgerator running?
Well you better catch it!


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (Cubix)*

oh i love working on cars...... hahaha


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

it runs....and drives.
smoking a lot and DUMPING fuel into the system.
im thinking faulty MAF, as somehow unplugging the MAF leads to a better idle








will have more to report hopefully later when I swap out the MAF's.
4000rpm is all it has gone up to now....jesus CHRIST!!!


----------



## Cubix (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Yea that sounds typical of a faulty MAF
It may just need to be cleaned, but you might as well try another one and see how it works


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (Cubix)*

found a replacement MAF, gonna go pick it up and the car in an hour.
Hopefully no tow trucks this time.


----------



## crazysccrmd (Mar 31, 2006)

*Re: (nOOb)*

is the maf installed right? i didnt read back far enough to check...im lazy.







there's an arrow on it that has to be point the right way, towards the turbo
also...vac/boost leaks can cause similar conditions with smoking and dumping fuel. whats the vac at on your gauge?


_Modified by crazysccrmd at 6:48 PM 5-1-2008_


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (crazysccrmd)*

MAF was in backwards.....i looked at it and knew right away. the guy i took it too really pissed me off that he didn't listen to me about that. such an easy fix.
thing runs great. few other issues i gotta sort out with boost spike but i drove it home. dump sounds like a friggin jet fighter


----------



## Vortexpert (Apr 17, 2008)

*Re: (nOOb)*

just remember to add oil nOOb, or you may have a very small but cool lookking problem


----------



## divineVR6 (Mar 21, 2002)

*Re: (Vortexpert)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Vortexpert* »_just remember to add oil nOOb, or you may have a very small but cool lookking problem


i dunno if you would consider that a very small problem, and im still amazed at the use of "FUNNILY" wild
anyways i hope you get your bugs worked out, its been a good build to watch


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

wow ya oil was added dont worry. 
hopefully have some videos by sunday.


----------



## Cubix (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Everybody adds oil
I'm tired of following the trend
Tonight I'm going to put kitty litter in my engine


----------



## onebdgti (Jan 13, 2006)

*Re: (Cubix)*

Meow!!! Can't wait till I get the rest of my kit together to install my turbo. By the way this has been an awesome build!!!!!


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (onebdgti)*

intercooler is painted and lights are almost installed.
next gotta find the vaccum leak.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

few weird issues i am having maybe some of you can shed some light onto:
1. Tranny Whine - I had an LSD and 5th gear installed, but they are whining a LOT. Sounds like I have straight cut gears. This isn't normal is it? I haven't driven an LSD car really so I don't really know if they whine, but doesn't seem like it makes sense. the tranny was SUPPOSED to have been filled with fluid...but given the ****tards other work that got done I am wondering if that could be a cause. How can I check the fluid level on the tranny without removing?
2. Boost spiking. I have turned the EBC off but I am still spiking to 20psi almost instantly if I go anywhere near 3500rpm. I've been granny driving it around my street trying to find the cause. The wastegate SHOULD be dumping at like 6psi I would have thought given the stock WG spring is around 6-8psi.
What else could be causing the MASSIVE spiking
3. Car is still battling to hold an idle. It almost seems to be getting worse. When I flipped the MAF around at least it was idling okay, still hunting for a spot to sit at but now its just dying again. I think I need to hook up to a smoke machine to test the vaccum. Something aint right.

Some had mentioned spraying carb cleaner. Is this safe to be spraying around the injectors and stuff like that? Some of my fittings are underneath my SRI so getting at them is a bit of a bitch to test to make srue they are sealing properly.


----------



## u01rwr (Mar 6, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*

pics vids


----------



## shortshiften (Mar 29, 2005)

*Re: (nOOb)*

as for the trans noise. i had the same issue after i installed my quaife. i beleive its normal.
continue to watch it and see if the noise starts getting worse. in 100 -200 miles change out the trans fluid from reg to synthetic and see if there are any metal chips in it. if not then dont worry.

as for checking the fluid level. there are 2 big allen i mean BIG allen plugs in the trans one is on the bottom to drain( where the diff it ) one is on the front under the starter.
you can use the tool i have or a stock lug bolt head fits in. after you get the front one out the fluid should be filled right up to the level of the hole. if not you have a problem and i would contact the company that did the diff install. if its a little low dont worry just top it off and swap the fluild in 100 miles. if you stick your finger all the way in and as far down as you can and still feel nothing fill it up (with the car not jacked up) untill it starts to over flow .
i did this and there were no metal chips. i then drove from mass to south carolina then back with no problems and with out the wining getting worse. but i did get a court date for doing an lsd launch at a red light to smoke an integra








as for the carb clean its safe just dont spray it on the turbo if the thing has been runing for a long time. had a tech do this to a 2.0t gti wile it was up on the lift and it filled the engine bay with a ball of flames. so dont spray it on super hot stuff cuz it will go boom. but your injectors and sensors will be fine.
good luck


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (shortshiften)*

thanks guy i appreciate the info i will try it out tonite. someone sent me the pic of the drain hole and i have access to an inverted 17mm socket so that wont be an issue.


----------



## sgt snuffles (Aug 16, 2007)

what was your initial budget for this build... im looking to do the exact same thing. just with a s/c so i wanna set a resonable yet reality budget.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (sgt snuffles)*

Some VAGcom readings:
MAF g/s = 3.19 - 3.40 it hunts around in there but then as the engine dies starts going into ~2.3
Throttle angle = 16.1*
intake temp = 21.0*C
RPM = 920 idle
I am hearing a rattling sound coming from the engine itself. The engine itself doesn't have the smooth sound the VR usually has, almost feels like it is down a cylinder or something. Is there a way to check everything is firing and running like it should? Just listening to 2 VR's side by side the one purrs like a kitten and mine has a rough idle and seems to idle like its got a big cam in it almost. if you put your hand on the engine you can kinda feel it rocking around.
i redid all of the vaccum connections going to the dump, and checked the ones going to the WG and intake. They all are good. tried some brake cleaner on the intake and cnnections but it didn't really fix anything. Smoke machine is my next option.


----------



## sp00l0nu (Feb 1, 2008)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_Some VAGcom readings:
MAF g/s = 3.19 - 3.40 it hunts around in there but then as the engine dies starts going into ~2.3
Throttle angle = 16.1*
intake temp = 21.0*C
RPM = 920 idle
I am hearing a rattling sound coming from the engine itself. The engine itself doesn't have the smooth sound the VR usually has, almost feels like it is down a cylinder or something. Is there a way to check everything is firing and running like it should? Just listening to 2 VR's side by side the one purrs like a kitten and mine has a rough idle and seems to idle like its got a big cam in it almost. if you put your hand on the engine you can kinda feel it rocking around.
i redid all of the vaccum connections going to the dump, and checked the ones going to the WG and intake. They all are good. tried some brake cleaner on the intake and cnnections but it didn't really fix anything. Smoke machine is my next option.

Did you ever do a compression test on the motor, or a leakdown test? Specially the leakdown, it will tell you a lot about the condition of the motor.


_Modified by sp00l0nu at 10:41 AM 5-6-2008_


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (sp00l0nu)*

i did...everything was well within the parameters and very good.


----------



## dtm337 (Jun 11, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*

1 sounds like the trans has no fluid,, ive installed many diffs never had any noise 
2 also sounds like the cam timing is off ,,,,,did you pre tension the chain damper ?......
3 is your waste gate on backwards?......hehe i hope not .....or does not have the proper vaccum.....
or vac source


----------



## sp00l0nu (Feb 1, 2008)

I dont see how your wastegate could be on backwards since the dump tube will only fit one way, not allowing you to put it on backwards even if you wanted to. Lets see some pics of your vacuum setup.


_Modified by sp00l0nu at 8:30 AM 5-7-2008_


----------



## dtm337 (Jun 11, 2004)

*Re: (sp00l0nu)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sp00l0nu* »_I dont see how your wastegate could be on backwards since the dump tube will only fit one way, not allowing you to put it on backwards even if you wanted to. Lets see some pics of your vacuum setup.

_Modified by sp00l0nu at 8:30 AM 5-7-2008_

true but ive seen ity done beleive it or not .....
this has been a great build for a noob .... but everybody makes mistakes ,,im a shop owner with tons of these builds under my belt and i still forget shizz all the time







.... im shure its just something he over looked


----------



## distorted303 (May 1, 2008)

*Re: (dtm337)*

Amazing thread and really overwhelming. I wish I could do something like that. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## fightthisfeeling (Apr 28, 2006)

did you test your wires,plugs,coil?


----------



## dtm337 (Jun 11, 2004)

*Re: (fightthisfeeling)*

updates?


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (dtm337)*

car is at a shop with a smoke machine. gonna test for vac leak


----------



## shortshiften (Mar 29, 2005)

carb clean didnt work?


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (shortshiften)*

nope.
report back:
-MAF *IS* toast, so i am replacing that
-there were a few minor vaccum leaks with some of my connections which have been fixed
-knock sensor isn't receiving right signal possibly due to not being torqued properly, so that will be sorted out.

it idles MUCH better now with a new MAF in there, purr's like a kitten. it wasn't a problem with the timing or any of that.


----------



## gtfme (Jan 18, 2007)

That canister is a ISV idle stabiler valve wanna sell that vr pcv valve their the biggest pieces when they break


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (gtfme)*

you know you can replace it with some hose and a one way vac check valve for like $5 right?


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

*THE CAR IS FINALLY DONE!!!!*

I went and picked up the car at 9:30am this morning, threw the new MAF in and drove it home. I had the EBC turned off so it was running at 6psi and even that was incredible. The dump operates perfectly at 5psi and sounds like a fighter jet.
Decided to turn the EBC on and turn the boost to 12psi......Well I think I now know what death sounds like. It sounds like a VRT @12psi with a 3" DP and a dump. You can't even scream loud enough for anyone to hear you.
I *LOVE* this car. You can be as civilized as a whiterock retiree on a sunday around town. it has louds of bottom end power still so you dont even have to rev it to drive it normally. I can drive it like its stock and no one would know. Then I can drive it like I want to meet death head on....and it will take me there. 80km/h appears without even touching the gas with my pinky toenail....and 160km/h comes up as if there was some sick error on the speedo. It pulls like it wants to kill you at 180....god along knows how fast it will go before it runs out of power.
The new 5th gear is amazing and makes cruising on the highway a dream. I can do 140km/h at 3000rpm. If i want to pass all i have to do is touch the gas and i roll right into boost. Its absolutely perfect.

I owe a *[*******pt]HUGE[/size]* amount of thanks to a lot of people who deserve a mention. 
-Graeme (TripleG) for the mechanical expertise and help with the swap
-Alexi for the over the phone tech support and troubleshooting along with countless hours of msn
-Scott (the Bartender) for being my India phone support
-Rob (Circuits) for the electrical help and late night Wendy's runs
-Lawrence from Calgary AutoWorks for fixing the other shops ****ups and making this run like a dream.

I just gotta refit the headlights, reinstall the grille, give it a wash and wax, and there will be pictures and videos hopefully by tomorrow.
I am sooooooo glad this is done and runs like a dream. A week ago I was swearing I would sell it the headaches were so huge but now it was all worth it.


----------



## u01rwr (Mar 6, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*

great job http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
cant wait for the pics and vids
i want to be just like you when i grow up


----------



## paul_c (Dec 16, 2007)

Just read the entire thread - inspirational! I'm stuffing a VR6 into a Mk1, may well consider adding a turbo too....


----------



## aprwolfsburg (Oct 25, 2006)

*Re: (paul_c)*

congrats







ive been watching your progress and its simply amazing


----------



## TallaiMan (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (paul_c)*


_Quote, originally posted by *paul_c* »_Just read the entire thread - inspirational! I'm stuffing a VR6 into a Mk1, may well consider adding a turbo too....

I hope you like taking a hammer to the firewall. It's the best part.


----------



## jmorando05 (Nov 7, 2007)

*Re: (TallaiMan)*

we want pics and especially video fooootage..


----------



## Archametes (May 10, 2008)

*Re: (aprwolfsburg)*

dumb question but shouldnt you run cams and low compression pistons to prevent premature ware of the rings? my brother turboed his car and he fried the piston rings almost immediately...just curious...


----------



## JarrettJettaVR6 (Jul 10, 2005)

*Re: (Archametes)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Archametes* »_dumb question but shouldnt you run cams and low compression pistons to prevent premature ware of the rings? my brother turboed his car and he fried the piston rings almost immediately...just curious...

from what i've heard and read...the op may correct me on this...but stock cams are one of the best option for turboed cars...you don't want any exhaust and intake valve overlap in a turboed motor...and the head spacer takes car of the compression issue and lowers it to 9:1 or 8.5:1 or around there


----------



## Archametes (May 10, 2008)

*Re: (JarrettJettaVR6)*

ok, that makes sence, i relised that after i looked at his parts list that the spacer was there for a 9:1 rather than the 10:1 or whatever it is stock


----------



## distorted303 (May 1, 2008)

*Re: (Archametes)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Archametes* »_dumb question but shouldnt you run cams and low compression pistons to prevent premature ware of the rings? my brother turboed his car and he fried the piston rings almost immediately...just curious...

i dunno. i like it. and i want to see the footage. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Archametes (May 10, 2008)

*Re: (distorted303)*


_Quote, originally posted by *distorted303* »_
i dunno. i like it. and i want to see the footage. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

i never said i didnt like it, hell if i didnt live 4,000 miles away i would have been over there getting my hands onto that lol
btw, engine wise, is there anything different between a MkIII and a MKIV?
and i dont mean minor things like the placement of a sensor or somthing, mean like is it a complete different setup or what?


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (Archametes)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Archametes* »_
i never said i didnt like it, hell if i didnt live 4,000 miles away i would have been over there getting my hands onto that lol
btw, engine wise, is there anything different between a MkIII and a MKIV?
and i dont mean minor things like the placement of a sensor or somthing, mean like is it a complete different setup or what?

few minor difference,s DBW being one of them, and the intake manifold and a few sensors, but otherwise they are very much the same engine.


----------



## AlexiGTIVR6 (Jul 21, 2000)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_*THE CAR IS FINALLY DONE!!!!*
.

Awesome. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Caution with that dump. I recently scared another person to jump off the side walk when mine opened up


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (AlexiGTIVR6)*

i cause other drivers to freak out. Mine is insanely loud when it is open....which seems to be all the time right now. i gotta fine tune it. I dont think it is closing properly. May be a faulty dump actuator altogether....which is what we thought before i installed it. oh well its doing its job right now.
Smurf Fighter Jet cleared for takeoff.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

project i am working on right now.....
*[happy gilmore's grandma] my fingers hurt [/granny]


----------



## sp00l0nu (Feb 1, 2008)

Congrats man! Happy your all done. PLease post a video of a highway pull or something so we can appreciate this even better.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (sp00l0nu)*

Storm is rolling in from the west with some wickedly black clouds. Gonna hold off a proper photoshoot and video for another day as we want to head out on the highway west of the city and will likely run right into the storm, which sounds like it might be packed with lightning and hail.
the finished product of a few hours of elbow grease. 
*yes i know the hood is not level. We need to fix that. We kinda threw it on when we put it on so it could get on a towtruck. Lights need to be fitted a little better as well.
Overall I am extremely happy with the sleepish look of the car. Doesn't look like your standard VRT at all.


----------



## Damarus (Jul 21, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Vids plz







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Cubix (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: (Damarus)*

Sorry for the quick and dirty
BUT


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (Cubix)*

rofl.


----------



## sp00l0nu (Feb 1, 2008)

what a nice build man, and your right it doesn't look like a vrt at all. even better. *Applause*


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (distorted303)*


_Quote, originally posted by *distorted303* »_Amazing thread and really overwhelming. I wish I could do something like that. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


a lot of people have said "i wish i could do something like this".
i came into this build with a VERY LIMITED knowledge of cars. the most complicated thing i had done was install suspension in my car and replace a busted thermostat housing.
i had never taken apart a front end let alone pulled and engine and then taken it apart.
For those who plan on doing something like this I say go for it, it really isn't as hard as it looks. Just make sure you do the following.
a) *RESEARCH*: I cannout stress this part enough. You can never do too much of it. I spent countless hours over an almost 2,5 year span researching about VR-T's. Ever since i bought the car i knew i wanted to put forced induction on it, and whenever other peoples build threads came up i tried to read them and understand why they went the routes they did. I wasn't trying to reinvent the wheel with this build, so all I did was take what i learned from others builds, the goods and the bad, and learn from them. Understand WHY they did things the way they did them and go from there.
YOu learn all kinds of little things by learning from others mistakes. ie. when people say "why did you pull the engine". Well I learned from enough people doing chains and installs that it only takes about 4 hours to pull the front end off and get the engine out, but you waste more than that amount of time swearing and breaking fingers cause you cant reach one stupid bolt. So i pulled the engine. 
You can never spend too much time with research.

b) *BUDGET*: This is second most important thing after you figure out what you think you might want to do. Even if you are doing the job yourself there are a lot of hidden costs. During the research portion of things I found out the OTHER parts i would have to be replacing while I did this. The "while you are in there" things, as well as the one time use only parts. There are a lot of hidden costs in a build like this; from new fluids, to headbolts, to specialty tools, to random pieces of hose and stuff. People always forget the small stuff, and then forget to budget for it.
It is better to create a budget that is marked up 15% and have money left over, than have a car half done with no funds to finish it. YOur budget will also tell you what you can and cant spend money doing. There are a lot of things that are "it's only $50 for a new one why not just do that". Problem is you get $50'd to death and you wind up with a $10,000 build. There are certain things worth paying the money to replace, there are other things where you may want to leave them.

c)*DOCUMENTATION/ORGANIZATION*: Because of how long and complicated these kinds of are it is EXTREMELY important you are organized and document everything. As the joke was when I started this "Screw weight saving just add more power". Winding up when you are done with a box full of bolts cause you couldn't find where they went is NOT weight saving. You aren't designing it better than the VW engineers. 
Every part I took off this car was photographed, bagged and tagged. It all went into a box and all of the photos were uploaded and labelled so I could come back to them. 
Having a clean and organized garage/shop is also important. It stops you wasting time looking for tools and parts, and it makes just working so much easier. 
By documenting and being organized i saved myself TONS of problems especially during reinstallation. Things seem intuitive when they are coming off why they are located there. But over the course of 5 months you forget things, and when you go to put stuff back together and everything has moved you are left scratching your head where exactly that damn thing went.
It's a little more work in the short term, with HUGE payoffs in the longrun, especially if things dont fire up right away. You can post pics for others to see and help you with, or people can spot things along the way. Also you can go back through them and figure out WTF was going on in the first place.
If you can manage those 3 things, you should be able to do something like this. Finding the right people and asking the right questions will also get you a long way.
I completed this build with nothing more than a $120 socket set from Sears, a borrowed engine hoist and stand, and a few specialty tools like triple sqaure bits and cam plates that I had to buy. 

The whole purpose of me putting this thread together was to help others who wanted to do the same thing. If it helps someone http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif If not.... i do most of my posting from work when its slow


----------



## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*

so elaborate on "budget"... what did you intend to spend and how true did you stick to that throughout the build? i know now that you are nearing the end you've had some unforseen issues with the fueling and tuning... how did that play into the budget? car looks awesome man! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
can't wait for the video!


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (MyCarIsRed)*

i'd rather not disclose the #'s of what my budget was. I did wind up slightly over, but that was all due to the shop who did my fab work and botched it up. Apparently they dont know what an accurate quote is. SO when they say $300 for welding and it comes to be $600 it kinda messes everything up.

Taking the shop overrun aside i was only over by ~$200. I had budgeted for everything and bought things over a few months to help ease the costs. Dropping $3500 on parts up front right away is kinda hard on the wallet. Do it over 4 months and its not so bad.


----------



## 708VR6 (May 20, 2006)

*Re: (nOOb)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif good to finally see the fruits of your labor dude...I'm really liking the idea of going FI, even if with a stg 1 kinetic kit...need to buy me a second car though since the gti is my DD...
again http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif for a sweet project


----------



## stealthmk1 (Aug 17, 2001)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_ Doesn't look like your standard VRT at all.


did you end up painting the IC black?


----------



## JPS95gti (Jun 27, 2003)

*Re: (stealthmk1)*

Holy sh:t....
how does it feel to know that your build thread along w/ a few others, is now going to be others *bible* while they have their vr's bleeding on their garage floor.
all thanks to a digi cam
im sure a few gf's and wives may not be so happy, mine hates you now that i've started buying parts.

great build. i'm using your thread. thanks for the step-by-step pix, and happy booostin!!!


----------



## 708VR6 (May 20, 2006)

*Re:  (JPS95gti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JPS95gti* »_
im sure a few gf's and wives may not be so happy, mine hates 


that's why cars are a love hate relationship...
you love them
wives/gf's hate them


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (JPS95gti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JPS95gti* »_Holy sh:t....
how does it feel to know that your build thread along w/ a few others, is now going to be others *bible* while they have their vr's bleeding on their garage floor.
all thanks to a digi cam
im sure a few gf's and wives may not be so happy, mine hates you now that i've started buying parts.

great build. i'm using your thread. thanks for the step-by-step pix, and happy booostin!!!











thanks man.
If you need specific shots that aren't posted or Q's answered I am more than happy to help others the way I was helped.
The pics I have posted are only about 50% of what I have in total. I kinda went a little nuts hahaha.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Who's ready for pictures? Got some video coming too.
Perfect night tonite so we headed right outside the city limits to grab some shots with the sunset then back into downtown for some street life.
Thanks Graeme for the shots.















































































































































































































and the idiot responsible for this build thread:


----------



## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Hey man, we want video. Screaming, law breaking video. None of these pretty pictures.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

tell youtube to stop messing around so i can host it. its down for site work at the moment.


----------



## marine24 (Jan 19, 2008)

*Re: (nOOb)*

That's an awesome build man! I found it and couldn't stop reading it until I was done. I just picked up my first VW and it's all new to me. This is perfect for someone just getting into it to look at and realize that it's not impossible to do ya know? 
Good luck with your next project


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (marine24)*

All filmed on closed course.....








In car video: http://video.google.ca/videopl...hl=en
Flyby: http://video.google.ca/videopl...27129


----------



## ChOp_V-DuB (Mar 19, 2008)

that thing sounds sexy!!! great build!!


----------



## sp00l0nu (Feb 1, 2008)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_All filmed on closed course.....








In car video: http://video.google.ca/videopl...hl=en
Flyby: http://video.google.ca/videopl...27129










Very nice man! Hey, how much boost you pushing?


----------



## RPW88 (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: (sp00l0nu)*

now all we need is a nice sexy under the hood shot so we can see the beast within!!


----------



## veedub2.8 (Sep 1, 2007)

this is officially one of the best threads to ever exist. great job man!


----------



## soo euro (Nov 19, 2004)

*Re: (RPW88)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RPW88* »_now all we need is a nice sexy under the hood shot so we can see the beast within!!
 X2


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

it's coming its coming


----------



## vwgolfracer26 (Nov 3, 2003)

*Re: (nOOb)*

nice build! i've been watching from the beginning and you did a great job. props.


----------



## sgt snuffles (Aug 16, 2007)

when will these vids be up on youtube? google vid isnt working for me!


----------



## shortshiften (Mar 29, 2005)

what psi?


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

12psi


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

for those running the 3" kinetic DP how do you avoid the shifter cable touching and then rattling against the 3" DP. it doesn't look like there is much of a way to avoid it from happening.


----------



## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_for those running the 3" kinetic DP how do you avoid the shifter cable touching and then rattling against the 3" DP. it doesn't look like there is much of a way to avoid it from happening.


you can build a small bracket for the cables that holds them away from the DP.


----------



## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: (TBT-Syncro)*

zip tie to steering rack


----------



## BumblebVR6 (Nov 22, 2001)

Which headlights are those?


----------



## fightthisfeeling (Apr 28, 2006)

I waited so long to hear that sweet vr6 rumble. Im using your buildup to do the same thing but the engines going into a 68 bug. Your my hero nOOb.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

headlights are believe it or not Ebay....I think HELIX. it was impossible to find something that wasn't angle eye, smoked, but had ecode.
WTF happend to tasteful stuff for mk3 front ends? 
All the eurostock hella ecodes aren't in stock at online vendors, or they want half my nut for them.

i was told this is good to stop the rattling with the shifter cables:
http://www.techflex.com/prod_SPB.asp


----------



## stofficer2 (Mar 22, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

One of the best threads I have ever read...
I am going turbo and happened to stumble apon this thread the other day. Before the thread I felt like I was walking into traffic blind folded, now I feel like I am a Bently Guide. 
Thanks man and congrats on the whole build. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
if you have a "check list" (prices not ness.) please post it up if you get a chance! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (marine24)*


_Quote, originally posted by *marine24* »_
Good luck with your next project

















I lied, we have begun a new one in the garage. Rabbit 1.8T Big Turbo swap.















Building up Graeme's (guy who helped me with my build) car now.


----------



## sgt snuffles (Aug 16, 2007)

no? sorry to annouy but i wanna hear that dump tube! youtube this ish!


----------



## u01rwr (Mar 6, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_

I lied, we have begun a new one in the garage. Rabbit 1.8T Big Turbo swap.















Building up Graeme's (guy who helped me with my build) car now. 

where is that build thread


----------



## OLDSCHOOL101 (May 8, 2007)

*Re: (u01rwr)*

wow i just took about 4 hours to read MOST of your thread. Awsome work and awsome pocket


----------



## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

*Re: (OLDSCHOOL101)*

Awesome!


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (u01rwr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *u01rwr* »_
where is that build thread

i don't think he is going to make an in depth one.
teasers tho....
Just when I thought I could get rid of the engine picker and have a nice and tidy garage again look what happens







. This should only take til Monday or Tuesday to be completed.
_
The motor is a AEB 1.8T, so it will bolt right into the car, no modified brackets needed. Ill be using a K03s with its stock manifold for now, should be plenty for the 1800lb car








This is what I got done tonight:
The afternoon started with this








Working away








Getting closer
















And finally out
















Im going to be cleaning the bay and then give it a coat of POR 15_
Stupid cars






















.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
..
.

Oh and engine bay shots....
















The tangle of wiring on the drivers side will be cleaned up this weekend. I relayed the headlights but threw it all in there just so i had light and could drive. will be making it look purdy dont worry.
Where's the intercooler piping? I must have lied....it's only stage 1


----------



## stofficer2 (Mar 22, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

hey just a heads up, but watch out for your wiring harness that's by the rain tray. My friend's melted the other day. It get's hot under the hood, also not a good feeling when smoke is coming from the dash and fuse board along with out the sides of the hood. 
this turned out pretty good, is that a 1.8 going in it? Does canda carry the 1.6 over there at all?


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

which wiring harness by the rain tray? All of mine are well out of the way oh the DP so melting i hope is not a problem.
we are putting a 1.8T into the rabbit....not just a 1,8L hahaha.


----------



## Damarus (Jul 21, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

car sounds sexy! great job man, looks awsome. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## stofficer2 (Mar 22, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

oh nice man, keeping the stock ko3?








the wiring is covered by a black plastic cover, it's in the bay but attached to where the rain tray attaches on the front. I wish I could show you a picture. I am sure you will be fine with the ceramic coating but just a heads up. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## VOLKS-MAN (Oct 7, 2000)

Please adjust your bumpstops to get your hood to fender level.It will help your hood release. Gap and fit adjustments are the things that make a car look professional. Nice thread, hiope you enjoy the ride.....


----------



## Cubix (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: (VOLKS-MAN)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VOLKS-MAN* »_Please adjust your bumpstops to get your hood to fender level.It will help your hood release. Gap and fit adjustments are the things that make a car look professional. Nice thread, hiope you enjoy the ride.....

Man what a ball buster...
Function>form
Fresca > hood gap

Congratsssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss
Got your IM last week, I'm just now really getting to sit down @ my computer, hahaha


----------



## sp00l0nu (Feb 1, 2008)

Hey nOOb can you please post some shots of the IC piping from under your car please?
thanks man.
Nevermind, found some on Pg.14. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by sp00l0nu at 3:46 PM 5-19-2008_


_Modified by sp00l0nu at 3:47 PM 5-19-2008_


----------



## JPS95gti (Jun 27, 2003)

*Re: (VOLKS-MAN)*

Just hunting for an update. have you had to tighten or tweak or adjust anything recently. ne thing still unbuttoned? what psi so far?
your experience?
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (JPS95gti)*

headbolts were torqued after the heatcycle, after the minor vaccum leaks were fixed, the knock sensor which the idiot welder unplugged was re-plugged back in, and the MAF was done right it runs perfect.
Boost is running at 12psi and I love it. With the 5th gear being longer t makes highway driving a dream and keeps me out of boost at 90mph...but if i just touch the gas i am right into it.
I am so happy with the car at the moment, the headache was worth it.


----------



## marine24 (Jan 19, 2008)

*Re: (nOOb)*

when you bought your motor mounts did they come in a kit or just separate? also i need to change mine out, do i have to pull the entire engine to do it or can i just lift it off the mount to get it out?


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (marine24)*

they were in a kit from BFI. I love them. Stage 1. More than stiff enough with almost no rattle.


----------



## sp00l0nu (Feb 1, 2008)

*Re: (nOOb)*

TURN UP THE BOOST!


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (sp00l0nu)*

Just got the downpipe wrapped. IT serves 2 purposes, 1) to keep some of the heat down in the engine bay, 2) to stop the rattle that occurs between the contact of the shifter cables and the 3" DP. I pulled the cables out of the way, and trimmed part of the heat shield that was making contact, but it still would touch slightly. So a little header wrap on the DP kills the problem and eliminates another source of heat.
There was also a small leak in the wastegate, the stock bolts seem to be too long. So they were swapped for shorter ones so I could eliminate the spacer i needed to use and tighten up and seal properly.


----------



## LISTO14 (Dec 20, 2007)

*Re: (sp00l0nu)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sp00l0nu* »_TURN UP THE BOOST!









do you plan on running higher psi? 12psi would of been stronger on stock compression.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (LISTO14)*

it will go up, im still just breaking it in nice and slow. going on a long cruise tomorrow that iwll put about 400km on the car which should be a good shakedown as it will be at a good speed for a continued period of time. no need to rush things and blow things to bits.
all in time....all in time.
will have some more photos to follow tomorrow


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

boosted VR's at their favorite watering hole...








$77 to fill up from empty now.


----------



## WeeZFan69 (Aug 3, 2003)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Who's MK2 is that?


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (WeeZFan69)*

another local VRT owner.


----------



## u01rwr (Mar 6, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*

im really happy that the car is done but i miss all the pic updates 
I guess i got to find another build thread


----------



## marine24 (Jan 19, 2008)

*Re: (nOOb)*

what year is your smurf? and where did you get those bumper lights?


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (marine24)*

its a proper 1997 Drivers Edition, hence the Jazz Blue. Came in limited quantities.
Bumper lights are Hella and I bought them off a local friend here. Some shop was having a blowout sale on them. Only $100 for everything.


----------



## stofficer2 (Mar 22, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

this is now my favorite car on the tex...got to ride along with my friend up the street after putting c2 in...yeah its fast....real fast haha...you said you got your trans built up correct? if so i couldn't imagine how nice of a launch you have got... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## BIG DUB (Feb 13, 2001)

Your thread has helped me out a great bit, thanks for the help. J


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (BIG DUB)*

No worries guys, thanks for the compliments. I'm glad others can use what I did to help them. It's always good when everyone can enjoy their cars more


----------



## Scooch (Sep 15, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Nice build man, looks like there was a lot of hard work that went into it.







for a fellow Canader


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

i was hoping to get some pass times but the rain right now means track will be closed. stay tuned next week.


----------



## Vortexpert (Apr 17, 2008)

*Re: (nOOb)*

noob i am getting my build on, soon the turbo will be in for the other car. lets race!


----------



## cata (May 19, 2006)

*Re: (Vortexpert)*

I had the weirdest deja-vu when I walked in at Calgary Auto Works one day to check up on my Corrado. I thought the Golf looked familiar from behind and then was shocked when I saw the front plate as I thought you were posting from Vancouver







. It looked 10x cleaner than I thought from the pictures. Congrats on getting her together.
Oh, and Lawrence and his team are the sh!t...period. He has some really cool toys too. I can't believe the BS that the other shop put you through...it's just unreal.


_Modified by cata at 1:25 AM 6-9-2008_


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (cata)*

thanks man.
this would have been a little easier to do back home on the coast, just due to the resources there, but i think we did pretty well given what we had.
definetly sucks about the "other" shop. 
you have the 3L corrado VRT correct?


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

rain rain go away i want to go to the track friday


----------



## orange57 (Feb 1, 2006)

*Re: (nOOb)*

noob,
do you happen to have a spreadsheet of all the parts required for this? Your thread has somewhat inspired me to possibly take on this product in my 02 jetta. I'm looking into the parts and trying to get my bearings straight before i plow in head first. 
love your car, and this thread is awesome. i spent all last night reading the entire thing.
thanks,
matt


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (orange57)*

first page has all of the major stuff you will need. if you get started with that, i think you will be well on your way.


----------



## orange57 (Feb 1, 2006)

*Re: (nOOb)*

how often did you have to stop and order something new, or something you didn't think of as you went?
Also, what does the LSD do? I've heard about them, but i'm not sure what their total function is? Is it a neccesity? Will your build thread be very similar for an MK4 jetta?
Thanks,
matt


----------



## marine24 (Jan 19, 2008)

*Re: (orange57)*

did you put in 262 cams with your build? i can't remember. Do you know what would be the plus of putting them in?


----------



## cata (May 19, 2006)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_
definetly sucks about the "other" shop. 
you have the 3L corrado VRT correct?

Yeah, I'm not even gonna bother checking out that shop anymore. My Corrado was the black one with the CF hood, it was an N/A build. The 3.0L VRT was really cool though, and so was the owner.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (orange57)*


_Quote, originally posted by *orange57* »_how often did you have to stop and order something new, or something you didn't think of as you went?
Also, what does the LSD do? I've heard about them, but i'm not sure what their total function is? Is it a neccesity? Will your build thread be very similar for an MK4 jetta?
Thanks,
matt

i started stockpiling parts early and spaced the build over the winter so i did have time to order parts and wait for them and not have it really slow me down. i am doing a build exactly like mine in a buddies and we ordered everything we knew we would now need upfront. it also helps i have like 5 autoparts stores within 10 minutes of my house.
The LSD is a limited slip differential. Without getting into the specific sciences behind each one of the different types it basically allows both of your wheels to put down power instead of just one. Ever notice when you gas it out of a corner the inside wheel wants to break loose? the LSD takes care of this. It means when you start putting down higher HP and get on the gas hard both wheels grip and put the power down instead of one slipping and the notorious "one tire fire"


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (marine24)*

i have stock cams. Looking to upgrade in the fall again when the car goes back to bed. Will likely do a larger hotside and some 264 turbo cams but i haven't locked that up for good.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (nOOb)*

*Update on how things are running*
So I have put 600km's on the car now in about 2 months. Been really busy at work so it has limited the driving time. Done 2 oil changes since i put the motor in, one after about 100km's and one again the other night. Some gunk did come out in the first one, which i wasn't surprised with due to the cleaning of the cylinders and stuff that i did. nothing major and the second one was perfectly clear.
Car is running very well, i have just finished setting up the high boost program on the electronic boost controller at 18psi. THe car literally wants to kill you at that amount. It pulls so god damn hard. I really need to follow through on the brake upgrade tho as I found with that amount of acceleration you need to be able to stop. SO if you are beefing up your engines remember that.
I am running a 12psi low boost program which is perfect. It is enough to beat the snot out of most cars on the road, and is tons of fun. THe best thing about the car is it can be driven like a soccer moms car if i want to. THe long 5th makes all the difference on the highway keeping things nice and sedated, and the dump is working perfectly.

Going to be taking the car 1500miles to the big Leavenworth Cruise this coming weekend (June 29th) so maybe I will see some of you guys there. IF you see the smurf behind you maybe just pull to the right


----------



## skaterazn (Jan 9, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nOOb* »_
Going to be taking the car 1500miles to the big Leavenworth Cruise this coming weekend (June 29th) so maybe I will see some of you guys there. IF you see the smurf behind you maybe just pull to the right










I'll see you there http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (skaterazn)*

Just some updates and feedback on how the car is going:
Put about 2500km's on the car since the build. Everything is going really well.
I have a high and low boost program set at 14psi and 18psi. God 18psi is scary. I am almost through my first set of front tires. Second gear pulls just shred them apart, especially at 18psi.
Done 1 track time, was a CRAP launch an only managed 14.1 pass, but did it at 111.3mph which isn't bad at all. Could easily get into the 13's with a time like that.
The longer fifth gear conversion makes highway driving a blast. Finally had the balls to run the car flat out on an empty stretch of straight smooth highway. Wrapped the needle into the odometer area (265+) in km/h. Definetly fast. Car still had a bit more to go as well which is just gross. Everything was stable as hell too which was amazing.
External oil cooler is working really well. I may upgrade the hotside to a .82 but we will see, not 100% sure yet if I want more lag.


----------



## LISTO14 (Dec 20, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

what is your a/f at 18psi? WOT


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (LISTO14)*

no idea...its going on the dyno hopefully next week to check.


----------



## V-dubbulyuh (Nov 13, 2005)

*Re: (nOOb)*

tracked!


----------



## VRsuper6 (Jul 8, 2007)

*Re: (V-dubbulyuh)*


_Quote, originally posted by *V-dubbulyuh* »_tracked!

and??


----------



## volksession (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (VRsuper6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VRsuper6* »_
and??

he meant tracking the topic....


----------



## kermani (Jul 1, 2008)

*Re: (volksession)*


_Quote, originally posted by *volksession* »_
he meant tracking the topic....

Aha! That's funny.


----------



## bansheelos (Nov 29, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Congrats on the ride! Looks sweet as hell! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## VR6Nutt (Dec 18, 2003)

Man - I just got thru reading your thread. Awesome build! And the fact that you're reliable is key! All on a stock bottom end. Nice. I am inspired to start accumulating parts for my build. Only thing I worry about is smog check here in Cali. Do you have any kind of inspections/smog tests up there? I imagine economy is about the same....provided you stay out of boost! Again - congrats!


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (VR6Nutt)*

the car will pass aircare if it had a cat. there is no reason that a high power car shouldn't pass emissions testing. it measn there is something wrong with your tuning if thats the case.


----------



## fastnetmail2 (Apr 10, 2008)

*Re: (nOOb)*

Noob,
I'm a total noob, have a hard time fixing my car just for smog. How did you and where did you learn at least the fundamental theories.. did you get a book? Reading some of these threads doesn't make any sense to me..so I just want to know how you got started.
thanks.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (fastnetmail2)*

dude i dont profess to know it all, i just learned as i went. i just read and searched on here and asked questions. there is so much information and informative people on here, you can get any question answered no matter how random or technical.


----------



## fastnetmail2 (Apr 10, 2008)

*Re: (nOOb)*

yeah but you got to have started somewhere even on this forum. I'd like to start somewhere...i want to know the basics first. I hear of compression ratios and all that mumo jumbo, the computer stuff, rechipping (well i know that that is about), but I don't know any specifics. 
Here's a noob question: does your car now give better miles/gallon or is it about the same after you modded it? Maybe I should start a new thread on how to get started on the road to modding.. start off w/ the basics. I mean, I bet most people would be super hesitant to start buying parts and not know how to mod it...they got to learn something first right? This forum have tons of threads. Maybe I should go back to the FAQ section and maybe there's a section on modding.
take for example, i googled:
http://www.wikihow.com/Modify-...mance
and I'm already wondering what the heck is an intake manifold and it's purpose.. stuff like that.. i mean, you got to have started somewhere.


_Modified by fastnetmail2 at 9:02 PM 4-5-2009_


----------



## skippyunit (Jul 14, 2008)

*Re: (fastnetmail2)*

I would start off by reading howitworks.com
Here is some good links








1: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm
2: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/camshaft.htm
And for future modding purposes
3: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turbo.htm
Read them in the order I posted them








Ps: that wiki article is horrible










_Modified by skippyunit at 11:56 PM 4-5-2009_


----------



## RBKvr6 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: (skippyunit)*

yea, that wiki article sucks...

by the way, learned most of the basic stuff from my brother...and used a bit of common sence


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (RBKvr6)*

go buy (or download) Corky Bell's "maximum Boost" it is like the bible for forced induction and is a great starting place.
I know what you mean when you need a place to start. When you are starting out you dont know what you dont know, so you dont even know the right questions to ask.
I read a few other VRT builds, and asked why they did certain things. I explained a lot of the stuff I did and why, so I would read some of that, but if you have questions I can answer them.

As for gas mileage its all about how hard and far I push my right foot. With the larger 5th gear Ic an actually get better mileage on the highwayd ue to cruising at lower rpms at the same speed. Around town if I stay out of boost it gets similiar gas mileage, but if i get into boost it can chew through a tank of gas VERY quickly. I wager under track conditions I could prolly go through a tank of gas in about 100miles.


----------



## u01rwr (Mar 6, 2004)

*Re: (nOOb)*

any updates
pics or vids??


----------



## djtreson88 (Apr 26, 2007)

*Re: (nOOb)*

im in need of some help with my dub just turboed it and now it wouldnt idle nice at all she just wants to drop off every time but when it goes into boost it run fine i wanted to see wat was the problem so i put it on the street i would run like crap till it start hiting boost (10lbs) spins tires and everything im guessin its fuel related ANY SUGGESTIONS


----------



## Das Borgen (Sep 10, 2008)

*Re: (LISTO14)*

your build is so well documented there's at least a million DIYs sprinkled in there

you win at life


----------



## thepearlblur (Jul 7, 2006)

great thread


----------



## vdubracer83 (Apr 22, 2002)

*Re: (thepearlblur)*

any more updates?


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: (vdubracer83)*

Not really....2 seasons of hard driving and zero issues.
Haven't changed or added anything. It's still reliable as a wood burning stove and is a blast to drive.
Aside from eating tires and other cars on the road, it has no drawbacks.

I'm really happy with the build and reliability. I've put like 8,000kms on the car in 2 years, and love it.


----------



## eurotekee (Jun 11, 2008)

Any chance we can see a dyno sheet in the future?


----------



## Nasty Vr6 (Jan 2, 2009)

Just spent majority of the night reading this thread... Car is beast and has alot of creativity, hopefully get some dyno pulls in and let's see the numbers.


----------



## raymondlee (Jun 8, 2008)

just found this and thank god i did.


----------



## LucidDisarray (Dec 26, 2008)

i'm keeping this for later reference


----------



## pDUBc (Dec 26, 2008)

AWESOME build sir


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

havent been on the tex in a while, came on to a notification overload.

i've answered all of them as best i could.

so i went and sold Smurf1 in mid July :screwy:


but then i went and did something even stupider.....Smurf2.....



















.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
But then I got bored....i missed my little rocket car. And if a single turbo made a VR fast....well i guess you know 2 is always better than 1.










.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Ooops I did it again..... :banghead:






















and the accompanying build thread.....:screwy:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...t-Papa-Smurf-Version-2.0-Better-Bigger-Badder


When 400whp gets slow.....:laugh::laugh:


----------



## vortexpert. (Sep 27, 2009)

so you going to wuste this year? 
i am starting another build too..
loved your gti! it was balls!


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

will be going to wuste yes. i actually sold the VRT right after i got back from wuste last year.


----------



## vortexpert. (Sep 27, 2009)

nOOb said:


> will be going to wuste yes. i actually sold the VRT right after i got back from wuste last year.


thats crazy..
i told my wife last night..
me: remember the blue gti, turbo from wuste..
her: no which one?
me: blue smurf, andrew i think is his name, the guy from canada.. real nice, clean blue gti.. remember?
her: oh yeah..
me: he sold the gti
her: idiot..
me:he now has i think a blue s4 wagon, v6 biturbo
her:i take that back...


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

hahaha priceless.

yeah that seems to be the reaction a lot of the time. then when people find out the color its even further approval.

im happy with the switch. i had grown out of the GTi just from a practical point of view. The new owner seems to be happy with it.


----------



## LucidDisarray (Dec 26, 2008)

nOOb said:


> hahaha priceless.
> 
> yeah that seems to be the reaction a lot of the time. then when people find out the color its even further approval.
> 
> im happy with the switch. i had grown out of the GTi just from a practical point of view. The new owner seems to be happy with it.




haha,

Your taking my future path. 

Total sleeper, Love it!


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

I love Kokanee beer, only time I can find it is when I'm in Idaho and Montana or in Canada. Good work!


----------



## Iku (Mar 11, 2009)

What the ****. I thought I had seen this car before. Saw the Alberta plate and went .

I'm from Sask, I definitely have seen this car at some Canadian show before. Might've been Fahrfromhome?

And yes, I know you sold it, but I am still replying because.. well I want too. :screwy:


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

would have been farfromhome show prolly. go every year


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

because i never did it with the other car....


----------

