# 1.8 JH Into 82 Rabbit Convertible - Been Sitting, Not Getting Gas



## Doc1982 (Feb 20, 2008)

*1.8 JH Into 82 Rabbit Convertible - Been Sitting, Not Getting Gas But Pressure Good*

I'm kinda confused on this one. The car has been sitting for about 3 years with just the engine put in and nothing hooked up. Finally got everything back together, and I can get it to run for a few seconds by lifting the air plate. 

I'm testing pressure with the gauge hooked up as so: 









With the valve closed pressure is close to 80psi. With it open it starts around 20-25 and rises to about 50-55. That seems to be a bit high for only being 50 outside and colder overnight, but I don't see why it wouldn't run. 

The engine seems to rev quite after a second or so when it does run, and seems to stop kind of abruptly. I can't find any air leaks and have almost all the vacuum lines capped for now. 

I can hear the frequency valve buzzing, and the spray pattern is good from all 4 injectors when I lift the plate. At this point I'm a bit stumped, I could really use a second opinion!

Thanks! :beer:


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## Doc1982 (Feb 20, 2008)

Found one huge mistake today. I went to swap out the fuel dizzy with another larger one I've had sitting around. This one was gummed up and stuck a bit from sitting so long, and as soon as i turned the key began dumping fuel into the engine. It took me a few seconds to hear the injectors singing. That's when i noticed gas leaking down the back of my block.

When I put the intake and exhaust manifolds on i included a bracket that tied the two together. Turns out it was just off enough to keep the intake from sealing properly on the bottom lip. Engine sounded much better and ran maybe a few seconds longer, but still won't stay going. 

Any ideas?


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## ziddey (Apr 16, 2006)

So it runs if you manually lift the airplate?

I don't have my Bentley on hand and haven't checked CIS pressures yet (although I really should..).

What is the proper pressure for your temperature? Have you taken apart the WUR to clean?

Or if you kill the frequency valve, is there a specific pressure you should be seeing?

Are you willing to fiddle with the mixture? It sounds like a couple of turns clockwise to enrichen it could get you idling. Then, assuming your o2 sensor is functional, you should be able to fine tune it once it's warmed up. If doing this, make a note of what the original setting was somehow.

Of course, you're heading down the better path, checking pressures first.


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## Doc1982 (Feb 20, 2008)

According to this it should be 14-20psi cold:











I have diassembled and cleaned the WUR. It didn't change too much, it starts about 20psi but only for a fraction of a second and then rises quickly to 50-55psi. I reassembled using this, I've never seen it online so I figured I'd post it here. Mine is a normal WUR, but this diagram should cover all styles:


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## Doc1982 (Feb 20, 2008)

Success! I discovered that my intake manifold wasn't sealing properly due to a bracket that was supposed to bind the intake and exhaust manifolds together. I removed the bracket and retorqued both. Then I replaced the throttle body gasket and the o-ring for the idle screw, double checked the timing (set it to 0 just for a baseline), and made sure the battery had a fresh charge... It runs! 

Not exceptionally well right now, and I still have a lot to do, but now that I can at least bring it into and out of my shop easily will make life a lot easier, and quicker!


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