# The Official Ko4-02x thread



## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Please read the new thread, this thread is now locked*
Link to new thread

I know there is few threads out there that discuss this setup (Ko4-20,22,23), but its good to have it all in one thread. (Not Ko4-001)
-Please post any pics of the setup that you have
-Dyno or Track time
-Discuss its weaknesses and strengths
-Instalation problems, ecu, FMIC. and other stuff..
Im sure a lot of us want to upgrate to this setup, (including me), so lets discuss
Feel free to ask any questions regarding this setup..


















_Modified by Boostin20v at 7:03 PM 4-1-2008_


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: The Official Ko4-02x thread (MrcinaGTI)*

This turbo is too small and isn't an upgrade over stock


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## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

its too small for a SM auto-x car. i get owned. get a LSD if you can.


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## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

i want more power


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## murc (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_its too small for a SM auto-x car. i get owned. get a LSD if you can.

Its not your fault, blame the classes. Havin to run against muslced out Evos and Stis with a far lower displacement than they?... tis bull****.


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: The Official Ko4-02x thread (SloJTI)*

ET's > dyno's IMO







I ran a 13.24 @ 102 on GIAC's 93 oct program


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## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

yea these turbos done generally dyno high at all, most lower than chipped tts which dont make sense considering we have higher comp but we do have crappier tuning i guess


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## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (murc)*


_Quote, originally posted by *murc* »_
Its not your fault, blame the classes. Havin to run against muslced out Evos and Stis with a far lower displacement than they?... tis bull****.


dont blame the classes, blame volkswagen for making our stock turbos the size of a walnut.
and they are not much bigger motors. the evo motor is only .2 tenths of a litre larger. they just have larger turbos, larger intercoolers, all wheel drive, a more efficient motor overall...etc etc.
and i dont think an STI would fit in the same class. i cant imagine that 1.8 litre and 2.5 litre would run together. i always thought th class topped out at 2 or 2.2 litres.


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## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

SM allows all engine swaps\set ups. oh and if you havent seen a sti\evo auto-x go watch try to get a ride its an eye opener.
and no in stock form sti runs STU and a mkiv 1.8t runs something else cant remember.


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## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*

dont you guys think this is enough for a daily drivier? 
+ is 2.5"ghl dp to stock 20ae cat-back exhaust enough for this turbo? Or do i need to go 2.5" all the way?? Would it hurt if i just keep the 20th ae. cat-back for few weeks until i can do custom cat-back with magnaflow muffler?? 
And if i do whole turbo back, im gona go with 2.5" all the way. 3" is just way too loud for me..










_Modified by MrcinaGTI at 7:29 PM 11-21-2006_


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (MrcinaGTI)*

As a daily driver, it's a fine upgrade. Figure ~ 235 whp (depending), which makes for ~ 300hp at the crank. Very respectable for a daily. I put 500+ miles on mine a week.
Your 20AE exhaust will be fine for the time being, or if you wanted to keep it forever. Thats up to you http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I would go with 2.5" TB if I could do it again


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## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

yea i felt a decent gain in speed once i got rid of my stock CB.


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## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

i just traded my 3 inch TB for a atp 3 inch dp into a 20th catback minus reconator, and notice some low end back but no loss up top, being qiuck and quiet is fun!


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*

I have the Wicked Tuning 3" TB. It has a big azz muffler and a resonator







Really quiet unless under load. I am happy with the noise level and the power http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

i had the 42dd prototype which is really qiute for a 3 inch, quiter than the wicked tuning from the sound clips i heard but still made me feel my car was childish


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## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

^^nice. 
With this setup, FMIC, 2.5" turbo back, forge TIP, GIAC sw, forge DV, intake, vr6 clutch with 14lb flywheel, and MBC. What else would i need in order to get the most out of it?


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (MrcinaGTI)*

I would get a VR6 airbox with a K&N instead of an CAI. IMO, CAI's are a waste of $ http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I think you hit on all the parts you need. Now just do it


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## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

i also went back to the 710n dv and think it drives better with it, better throttle responce and boost responce


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## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_I would get a VR6 airbox with a K&N instead of an CAI. IMO, CAI's are a waste of $ http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I think you hit on all the parts you need. Now just do it









Im working on it.







I allready bought the turbo







, i got FMIC, and DP. 

_Modified by MrcinaGTI at 8:02 PM 11-21-2006_


_Modified by MrcinaGTI at 7:22 PM 1-31-2007_


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## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

y are u waiting on slo?


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## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WinnersCIRCLE* »_y are u waiting on slo?

what

















_Modified by MrcinaGTI at 8:02 PM 11-21-2006_


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## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

hes selling? BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO


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## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

slo, say it aint sooooo


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## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*

Eh probably... I would get a bigger turbo too if I had the chance...but school = money and right now I'm looking to clean up the whole car engine and body...and interior.
And I'm not really all that excited to go fast anymore after a buddy of mine turned his car in to a pile of metal...


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_And I'm not really all that excited to go fast anymore after a buddy of mine turned his car in to a pile of metal...


That feeling will pass and the thrill of speed will come back. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Just have to be smart


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## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_That feeling will pass and the thrill of speed will come back. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Just have to be smart









not for a while... he has lots of injuries... broken back, neck... shattered ankles, i herd his hip is actually broken and disconnected from his spine (no nerve damage). internal bleeding and broken face... oh yeah and one of his legs is broken in 8 places


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_
not for a while... he has lots of injuries... broken back, neck... shattered ankles, i herd his hip is actually broken and disconnected from his spine (no nerve damage). internal bleeding and broken face... oh yeah and one of his legs is broken in 8 places

The PrimeMinistah?


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## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

indeed


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## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (bmxp)*

its scary how badly hurt you can get in such a safe car like this. with 6 airbags and rigid construction, makes you think twice about ever wanting to go fast in a civic hatchback thats 1000 pounds lighter with 4 less airbags


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## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

I'm also looking into this kit, My car being a 2001 (AWD) i have the infamous GIAC CLGL12 boost file, this file is made for the ko3's and ko4-001. It delivers killer trq and pushes my ko3 to 21psi. I wonder what it would do to the ko4-20. any thoughts?


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## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

my revo stage 2 pushed 24 psi, bit now that sw wont work for u








and to bmxp i feel for ya bud, but i bet if he was in a tin can such as a honda or nissan he wouldnt be alive now, although when he wakes up he will wish he is cause of the pain, poor kid, it sucks, my heart goes out to him<3 did he have a girl?


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## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WinnersCIRCLE* »_my revo stage 2 pushed 24 psi, bit now that sw wont work for u








and to bmxp i feel for ya bud, but i bet if he was in a tin can such as a honda or nissan he wouldnt be alive now, although when he wakes up he will wish he is cause of the pain, poor kid, it sucks, my heart goes out to him<3 did he have a girl?


did he have one? are you saying if he did, she dumped him cuz of the accident? man thats COLD.


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## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

hahaah no i didnt mean that!
i was just gonna say shes gonan be takin care of him


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## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (GiacGtiAgain)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GiacGtiAgain* »_did he have one? are you saying if he did, she dumped him cuz of the accident? man thats COLD. 










he did many girls if that counts... hahaha but all in all the roll cage, and williams 4pt harness and probably those status seats saved his arse... From what I heard the seats were still in 1 piece and not damaged... didn't see for myself though
But anyway back on topic


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## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

lol


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## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_As a daily driver, it's a fine upgrade. Figure ~ 235 whp (depending), which makes for ~ 300hp at the crank.

Your not going to lose 70whp on a fwd platform. Its between 260-270crank. 
I would get this kit if a decent user dyno was posted. I would gladly pay for 2 runs local in MD. I just want to see the power 4500-7000 which where this turbo is really suppose to improve.


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## KingUnderpants (Sep 8, 2004)

Does GIAC make a K04-02x file for the AWW? I couldn't find anything about this when i was looking a while back...


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## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (davidraeside)*


_Quote, originally posted by *davidraeside* »_Does GIAC make a K04-02x file for the AWW? I couldn't find anything about this when i was looking a while back...

not last time i checked


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

I have an AWW with the k04-20 kit. I have REVO SW. Overall, I am satisfied with my performance gains over stock k03s. My GTI does her job as my daily driver. I drive about 150 miles a day. It's very fun and pretty torquey. I run a full 3 inch GHL Downpipe with high flow cat, custom mandral bent catback without resonator and its coming out a bored out REMUS muffler. The car is pretty silent under normal load, but at full load it is pretty loud. The turbo has good spool up. I run it with an overboost solution kit, N75 J valve, CARBONIO CAI. BAILEYS DV, upgraded side mount intercooler, GHL lower intercooler pipe, Snow performance stage 2 map water/meth, 4 bar FPR, APR stage 3 fuel pump, (bosch white top 380cc injectors http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif ) . I spike at 20 and hold 18 through gears. I am still on stock clutch, but plan on upgrading to the OEM VR6/G60 14 lb flywheel. I have upgraded polyurethane dogbone mount and NEUSPEED shortshifter. Suspension: VOGTLAND lowering springs and NEUSPEED 28mm rear sway bar. I also installed the NEW SOUTH PERFORMANCE power gasket plus last week. My upper intercoolerpipe and charge pipe are wraped in thermal heat wrap to keep it away from the exhaust manifold heat. and Car runs nice. I am satisfied and it exceeds my needs. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif to the k04-20 kits. I have not dynoed yet, but plan on doing it in DECEMBER. I hope my numbers are good when its nice a cold outside.







The only change I plan to make is changing my current injectors to the GENESIS 380cc.






























_Modified by 01gtiaww at 6:17 PM 11-22-2006_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 6:22 PM 11-22-2006_


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (sh{}e)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sh{}e* »_
Your not going to lose 70whp on a fwd platform. Its between 260-270crank.

yeah, my math was a little off, but I still think closer to 280-285bhp.


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## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_I have an AWW with the k04-20 kit. I have REVO SW. Overall, I am satisfied with my performance gains over stock k03s. My GTI does her job as my daily driver. I drive about 150 miles a day. It's very fun and pretty torquey. I run a full 3 inch GHL Downpipe with high flow cat, custom mandral bent catback without resonator and its coming out a bored out REMUS muffler. The car is pretty silent under normal load, but at full load it is pretty loud. The turbo has good spool up. I run it with an overboost solution kit, N75 J valve, CARBONIO CAI. BAILEYS DV, upgraded side mount intercooler, GHL lower intercooler pipe, Snow performance stage 2 map water/meth, 4 bar FPR, APR stage 3 fuel pump, (bosch white top 380cc injectors http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif ) . I spike at 20 and hold 18 through gears. I am still on stock clutch, but plan on upgrading to the OEM VR6/G60 14 lb flywheel. I have upgraded polyurethane dogbone mount and NEUSPEED shortshifter. Suspension: VOGTLAND lowering springs and NEUSPEED 28mm rear sway bar. I also installed the NEW SOUTH PERFORMANCE power gasket plus last week. My upper intercoolerpipe and charge pipe are wraped in thermal heat wrap to keep it away from the exhaust manifold heat. and Car runs nice. I am satisfied and it exceeds my needs. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif to the k04-20 kits. I have not dynoed yet, but plan on doing it in DECEMBER. I hope my numbers are good when its nice a cold outside.







The only change I plan to make is changing my current injectors to the GENESIS 380cc.






























_Modified by 01gtiaww at 6:17 PM 11-22-2006_

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 6:22 PM 11-22-2006_

get the stock tt injectors, blue is goin to the tt ones as well as i have, the 4bar is meant for the tt injectors and 3 bar for the white tops fyi, PI will explain this to you if ya give them a shout, 380 is too much as it is i feel


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

Yeah! This was my first choice as well, but they are pretty pricey. I was running this whole past week with the 3 bar in and was running better than with the 4 bar. I was wondering how do you think it will run on an adjustable FPR set at 3.5bar or running 364cc at 4 bar? I guess my side skirt money is going towards blue tops. Where are you guys buying them from? Pro Imports? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 6:38 PM 11-22-2006_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 6:39 PM 11-22-2006_


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## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

i paid 140 for mine overnited from someone who was apr 3 and went to 3+


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## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WinnersCIRCLE* »_get the stock tt injectors, blue is goin to the tt ones as well as i have, the 4bar is meant for the tt injectors and 3 bar for the white tops fyi, PI will explain this to you if ya give them a shout, 380 is too much as it is i feel

Pssh if it wasn't for me you wouldn't of b/c you thought the white tops were high and mighty.... In fact I wasted money on that bull****. Still pissed...
OEM TT's on 4 bar = the win.
And PI didn't give me **** for information... I ask if I was suppost to use a 3 bar or 4 bar they were like try it out see which one is better...







and it's really differrent from each car...








To me it seems like oem TT's win... or probably genisis injectors too...


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## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

they only spend the time with people who bought there kit rather then pieced it....
i didnt think the white tops were high and mighty, just throwin suggestions to ya....
does anyone know if the 225 comes with a 4bar?


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## UntouchableGTI (Apr 30, 2006)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WinnersCIRCLE* »_they only spend the time with people who bought there kit rather then pieced it....
i didnt think the white tops were high and mighty, just throwin suggestions to ya....
does anyone know if the 225 comes with a 4bar?
 
it does


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## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

*Re: (sh{}e)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sh{}e* »_
Your not going to lose 70whp on a fwd platform. Its between 260-270crank. 
I would get this kit if a decent user dyno was posted. I would gladly pay for 2 runs local in MD. I just want to see the power 4500-7000 which where this turbo is really suppose to improve.

i am changing some stuff around so if u want u can pay for a run for me!


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

I bought the kit from PI. My kit came with white tops and a 4 bar fuel pressure regulator. The first thing i asked them was what FPR do i use? 3 bar or 4 bar? They said, Use the one that feels better also. Then they said the GLI feels better with 4 bar. I was like WTF i have an AWW GTI not a GLI JETTA. Anyway, I found out through trial and error that 3 bar is what my car likes with the white tops. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 4:15 AM 11-23-2006_


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## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

werid... my car didn't like th whites at 3.... so i opted for 4 with the tt's
should get some sleep.... i got a little







bowl tomorrow (football witha bunch a co-workers)


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## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

i dont sleep regularly anymore, so fook it, but yeah, each car is diff and likes different stuff, my car liked the 3 bar and 380s while my tts like the 4 bar a lil more, i am gonna play with a 3.5 fpr when i get a chance though, i think the cold starts will be better, i had my first cold start issue this morning for the first time in months


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

That is what i asked above. How would the car react with audi blue tops 380cc at 3.5 bar or 364cc at 4bar.


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## turbovdubber (Oct 8, 2006)

ok so anyone know if there would be connection or fitment issue's running a EVOMS FMIC w/ athe k04-020 kit on a 04.5 GLI?
hopefully buying this kit soon...like when they get the damn thing back in stock!


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (turbovdubber)*

The EVOMS front mount intercooler is what pro imports recommends. It uses the stock location intercooler piping that the kit comes with. Should have no issues at all. Should bolt right up without any modifications required. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I personally went with the TYROL SPORT upgraded sidemount intercooler to keep it as stockish as possible. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 10:04 AM 11-23-2006_


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_That is what i asked above. How would the car react with audi blue tops 380cc at 3.5 bar or 364cc at 4bar.

With GIAC, I run the TT 364cc injectors at 3 bar. Now granted I only hold 14 psi @ 6500 on 93oct. That number does go up to 19 on 100oct. Maybe this is why PI wants you to run the 4 bar, so you can have 19 psi at 6500 on 93oct. I am not sure, so don't quote me. But I know 364's @ 3 bar work, hence the 13.24 ET on the 93oct program http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 







Happy Thankgiving peeps


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

I have ran the 380 cc white tops at 4 bar and 3 bar. I spike at 20 and hold 18 throughout the gears with both 3 and 4 bar. The only difference i feel is that with the 3 bar i have cold start issues and with 4 bar i don't. Car feels a little stronger through the whole power band with 3 bar than with 4 bar. I am ordering my blue tops soon and will try running them at 4 bar and 3.5bar with an adjustable FPR.


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## turbovdubber (Oct 8, 2006)

so anyone know if PI is actually no sh i t going to have this kit back in stock come december 1st as the website is claiming?


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

Why don't you give PI a call and find out. No one is going to know the answer better than Pro Imports.


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## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

*Re: (turbovdubber)*


_Quote, originally posted by *turbovdubber* »_so anyone know if PI is actually no sh i t going to have this kit back in stock come december 1st as the website is claiming?

true, back when i worked there it was hard to stock the turbos then, and now its even harder, sometimes he gets used ones in that he rebiulds with new parts that he still warranties since hes a liscenced borg and warner dealer


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

I was doing some research on the audi TT blue top injectors and read that they are 386cc not 380cc. How correct is this?


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Nope, 364cc for sure


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## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_Nope, 364cc for sure 

_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_Nope, 364cc for sure 

_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_Nope, 364cc for sure 

_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_Nope, 364cc for sure 

_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_Nope, 364cc for sure 

_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_Nope, 364cc for sure 

_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_Nope, 364cc for sure 















i am high off turkey, my farts smell


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

So how come the guys at seatcupra.net and on the audi world forum say they are 386cc.?? Also on ecode tuning. Below is a link to ecode tunning where it says it.

http://www.ecodetuning.com/sho...p=564


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## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

cause there morons, j/k actually bosh rates them at 380+ but when flow benched there at 364, when PI sent out a set to get benched and matched they flowed in the 330's


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2925089
Read and learn


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## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*

WTF? Run either 3bar or 4bar and see how it feels? You call that tuning? The software is written for specific injector size and fpr can help increase duty cycle without upgrading to larger injectors.
The question should be what is the SW written for? 364 TT injectors @ 4bar or 364TT @ 3bar? I believe its suppose to be run at 4bar and any less you may run lean which I wouldn't call "safe".


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (sh{}e)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sh{}e* »_WTF? Run either 3bar or 4bar and see how it feels? You call that tuning?






















Agreed http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Use what the SW is written for, use Vagto see if your fuel trims are in spec, and go for there. Don't go by seat of the pants, use the tools available to "tune" your car


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## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

agreed, but seriously, the PI shop 20th ran better with the 3, my car seems to run better with the 4 but i have not done vaging to proove it. i wonder what would be worth trying out?
revo doesnt know what to tell there customers, i here from alot of revo reps on there BT SW they tune them with "x" fpr but the car ends up runnign better on "a diff x" fpr
usually sw can adapt to the FPR , as somme stage 3 revo cars like 3 bar and some like 4, and some even 5.
each car is diff and reacts diff to these crappy off the shelf poor excuses for tuning options
in conclusion, f*ck revo, and F*ck giac


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WinnersCIRCLE* »_in conclusion, f*ck revo, and F*ck giac









So basically your saying **** all chip tuning? Or just go with APR, cause you didn't say f\/ck them? 



_Modified by SloJTI at 10:10 PM 11-23-2006_


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WinnersCIRCLE* »_each car is diff and reacts diff to these crappy off the shelf poor excuses for tuning options

I just think most peeps want to bolt stuff on and go, They do not want to put in the extra time needed to fine tune thier cars and finish the process. Vacuum leaks, faulty sensors, bad hardware and crappy installs are whats usually to blame








My car runs fine, I Vag it once every 2 weeks to check for codes and look at my fuel trims. As long as there aren't any codes and fuel trims are is spec, I just put gas in it and go.


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## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

fu c k apr (and all other chip tuners)

what blocks can i run to see if a 3 or 3.5 fpr would do me better
see what PI is trying to do is cancel out everyone who just wants to bolt on the kit nd go, they know not eveyone uses a vag and cant log and make changes, thus adding a 4 bar and playing with the stock 3 bar to see what feels better should be good enough for those types of people, but not the ones that know what there doing


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WinnersCIRCLE* »_what blocks can i run to see if a 3 or 3.5 fpr would do me better

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/m_blocks/ http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

hey slo, its about 60* here in texas at night if not colder and i have a front mount. so you better make room for 1 more ko4 in the 13's.


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## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_hey slo, its about 60* here in texas at night if not colder and i have a front mount. so you better make room for 1 more ko4 in the 13's.

pssh... I'd already be there if it weren't for the short track season... F' Washington and it's rain.


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## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

only good thing about texas is track and auto-x alllll year long


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_hey slo, its about 60* here in texas at night if not colder and i have a front mount. so you better make room for 1 more ko4 in the 13's.

Do it brotha http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## turbovdubber (Oct 8, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_Why don't you give PI a call and find out. No one is going to know the answer better than Pro Imports.

um...i'm deployed in iraq...i can't call them!


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (turbovdubber)*

Here are some pictures of my set up for the thread. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Hope they are clear. I took them with my web cam!







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 





















































_Modified by 01gtiaww at 12:25 PM 11-25-2006_


----------



## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

nice. Pics are a lot better than those cell phone pics.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (MrcinaGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MrcinaGTI* »_nice. Pics are a lot better than those cell phone pics.
















I bet those are still cell phone pics


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

Nope! They are web cam pics..lol


----------



## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

weak sauce


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

i lied. chances are i will never make it back to a track. the way my luck has been in 400miles when i hit 60,000 my t-belt will go BOOM and take out not only my head but a piston or 2 on the way.


----------



## Space9888 (Mar 18, 2002)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WinnersCIRCLE* »_fu c k apr (and all other chip tuners)

what blocks can i run to see if a 3 or 3.5 fpr would do me better
see what PI is trying to do is cancel out everyone who just wants to bolt on the kit nd go, they know not eveyone uses a vag and cant log and make changes, thus adding a 4 bar and playing with the stock 3 bar to see what feels better should be good enough for those types of people, but not the ones that know what there doing

i agree w/ the above even tho i dont have acess or the funds to do the laptop thing, but an alternative is a air fuel meter, and an injector duty cycle meter, kind of neanderthal way to do things since you dont know if your keeping the management happy, but it would let you know if your ecm is maxing out your injectors and judging by the air fuel meter you have a very rough idea of fuel compensation by the ecm and or rich lean mixture. the two together are key of your on a budget. and want to increase performance within your means. 


_Modified by Space9888 at 2:46 PM 11-25-2006_


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (Space9888)*

The thing is, all those meters you say you need are available in VagCom







So for the 300 you'd spend on an A/F gauge and whatever it costs for an injector meter cycle reader, you could have a used laptop and a VagCom cable http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Yeah... nothing new in the k04-20 world i'm guessing


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*

hey weinerscircle...I mean winnerscircle







I kid I kid
What did you do to get your Boost deviation gone? I belive my throttle boddy is closing on me once I hit 20...


----------



## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

set boost to 9


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*

I did... it just happens quicker....


----------



## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

my boost controller literally fel apart







wtf?
ahhh well i got a shoebox full of them, i also noticed PI put a lil to much tension on my wastegate last time the car was in there, that helped out some of the on off feeling when i backed off it a bit


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WinnersCIRCLE* »_my boost controller literally fel apart







wtf?
ahhh well i got a shoebox full of them, i also noticed PI put a lil to much tension on my wastegate last time the car was in there, that helped out some of the on off feeling when i backed off it a bit

fall aprt how?


----------



## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

dunno it just stopped working..........


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*

My turbo gets here today.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (nuther337)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Let us know how the install goes, If you have any questions ask us! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

01, do u have close pics of your overboost setup?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

Well i have one pic but its not that good of a close up. I will post to see if you can see it. If not, I will take some when i get off work with a digi cam or if you have yahoo and are on tonight i will turn my web cam on and let you see it.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Here is the pic of overboost. See if you can see it.


----------



## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

ok cool, yea some close up of how the hoses are and stuff, its easier for me to see it then have u explain it


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

I posted the pic see if its good enough.


----------



## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

i like and i sent u a PM


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

I received your IM but I dont know what is wrong with this damn computer that i cant send IM, but yes It spikes at 20 and hold 18. That is what i wanted. This is with the high boost spring. I put in the low boost spring to see how that worked and it would spike at 16 and stay there but did not feel as strong as with the high boost spring.


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_ http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Let us know how the install goes, If you have any questions ask us! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Thanks,


----------



## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

post up if ya have questions or concerns


----------



## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*

Anyone here have an actual picture of turbo, taken underneath the car? I want to see how the up-pipe sits on it, and attaches to dp.


----------



## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

attaches and sits like the hot side of a ko3, only instead of studs it uses 4 bolts and nuts.......i wish i had a digi, so many people are askin for pics, lol, someone send me there digi


----------



## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WinnersCIRCLE* »_attaches and sits like the hot side of a ko3, only instead of studs it uses 4 bolts and nuts.......i wish i had a digi, so many people are askin for pics, lol, someone send me there digi

buy one!!







phone pics would work for me.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

I will try to get underneath the car tonight and get some pics from underneath.


----------



## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_I will try to get underneath the car tonight and get some pics from underneath.
 thank you


----------



## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: (MrcinaGTI)*

i just hit 80k milles on my 02 gti, and didnt replace my belt. You guys think I should replace my timing belt and water pump before instaling this setup? What belt and wp u guys prefer, is OEM best? thanks


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (MrcinaGTI)*

I would, in fact I just did do all that stuff in preparation for this kit. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (nuther337)*

MJM has got some deals on their timing belt kits.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (nuther337)*

You should get this done at 60,000 miles. Do your timing belt and water pump and everything else associated with this. When you do the water pump go with the GERMAN OEM water pump it has the metal impellar as opposed to the plastic piece of crap that comes with the water pump on our cars. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 3:30 PM 12-7-2006_


----------



## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

i belive vw has moved to the metal impeller now


----------



## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

cool. So where can i but this German OEM water pump? Dealership? 
And what all do i neet to change? I know timing belt and water pump. Anything else, like belt tensioner...exc.. thanks


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

try 1stvwparts.com or MJM and yes change everything. Belts, tensioners, and waterpump.


----------



## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

OK, here is the kit im looking at. 








OEM timing belt 
OEM serpentine belt 
OEM tensioner roller 
OEM thermostat with o-ring 
OEM belt tensioner (with idler roller) 
OEM 4-piece mount mount stretch bolts 
German water pump with metal impeller and o-ring 
Do I really need all this? And does anyone here has this kit? $249.95 for everything. Good deal?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (MrcinaGTI)*

Yeah that's what you need you can scratch out the thermostat if you want.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_Yeah that's what you need you can scratch out the thermostat if you want.

I you bought and paid for it (even if it came in the kit) replace it







Never a bad idea to replace old. worn parts http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Guys, I just wanted your opinions on the efficiency of my ghetto thermal wrap. I just wanted to keep my intercooler piping away from the exhaust manifold and block heat. I just wrapped the OEM thermal/fire protector thing that came on the stock piping onto the KIT piping. Should i leave it on or invest in something better that I actually have to pay for.?

























































_Modified by 01gtiaww at 7:49 PM 12-7-2006_


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

*Here are some more pics that winnerscircle wanted on the overboost setup:*


----------



## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

good stuff, no on /off feeling?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*

I was hesitant on getting the overboost setup because i thought it was gonna give me that on/off feeling associated with MBC's but I have no on/off feeling what so ever.


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Ok, So does this kit come with a K04-020 or K04-023?


----------



## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: (nuther337)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nuther337* »_Ok, So does this kit come with a K04-020 or K04-023?

its the same thing, 023 or 020. Its Turbo that comes from Audi TT225hp.


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (MrcinaGTI)*

no difference with the wastegate? I had read something in here about that, I think??


----------



## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

just wastegate placement, nothing else, how many times do ppl have to say it


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*

Come on guys can we get some new questions going for the k04-20 instead of repeating old ones? I need some excitement in my life.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

Anyword on that k04-20 software upgrade from REVO? What is it that they are upgrading or trying to correct?










_Modified by 01gtiaww at 6:23 PM 12-8-2006_


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_Anyword on that k04-20 software upgrade from REVO? What is it that they are upgrading?


Does it really matter? GIAC ftw http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

I'm this close to switching over







, although my car has been running pretty good with this cold weather. I think I will see if tyrol sport has it and see how much they will charge. Can't I just use sps3 or lemmiwinks to adjust settings? What differences do you find between REVO AND GIAC? If GIAC is more aggresive i would be very interested in switching over.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

I've never had the ko4-02x Revo SW, so I can't tell you the differences


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

I've only had APR Vtune with diode on K03S and ReVO with K04-20 and i like APR better. My car ran so much smoother with APR. To bad they dont have a k04-20 file







. I would like to try GIAC though always have but could not get a GIAC dealer close by.


----------



## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

700 dollar switch though


----------



## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

it was fun while it lasted guys.....
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...id=25


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*

Ill be doing my install sometime in the next month or so. Jumping on the dyno hopefully in the next week or two for a baseline. going to run giac http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WinnersCIRCLE* »_it was fun while it lasted guys.....
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...id=25









Sorry to hear! Hopefully your car is not totaled and repairable. Funny thing same thing almost happened to me 2 nights ago. I was driving and the dude in front of me slammed his brakes, I stopped and the lady behind me was going so fast she could not brake on time. Lucky for me the shoulder was clear and she swung on the shoulder before she could hit me. When she hit her brake and came to a stop she was like a car in front of me on the shoulder, If the shoulder would not have been their my car would have been totaled from the back. Anyway, If your car is totaled and you want to get rid of some stuff put me first on the blue top injector list.
I will take them off your hands. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:28 AM 12-9-2006_


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WinnersCIRCLE* »_it was fun while it lasted guys.....
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...id=25


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (nuther337)*

Another question for the Gurus although it may seem silly, Are the White-top injectors actually white, and the Blue-top injectors actually blue? Anybody know what injectors Pro-imports is currently including in their kit?


----------



## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

yes, PI is using the white tops.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

I have the white tops but I am switching to GENESIS or BLUE tops if i can find them for cheap. I dont like having to use the spacer. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif and i dont like the fuel spray pattern.


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 4:47 PM 12-9-2006_


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

my injectors are baby blue and I was told that I didn't need spacers.


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (nuther337)*

anyone have a pic of the eurojet intercooler pipe matted to this turbo with our inlet hose?


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (nuther337)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nuther337* »_my injectors are baby blue and I was told that I didn't need spacers.

Those are the TT injectors. Factory correct fitting and spray pattern http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Yep.. car pulls harder after replacing a few vac. lines and some other ish... I think I ahd a boost leak all along...








and I just picked up a EVOheatsheald for 45 bucks new
http://www.evolutiontuning.com/evoheatshield.html
woot....


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

My car pulled harder too when I replaced all my vacuum hoses with silicone, I also did my PCV system. I also did the one way check valve mod and the power gasket plus not to long ago. Should hold boost better.


----------



## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (bmxp)*

ok, so i finally got my giac ecu in the car. when i first went to get it adapted to my car at the dealer, the immobilizer adapted just fine but it wouldn't start, problem with the software. I sent it out to get it reflashed to my vin and it started up first try when i put it in.
It doesn't want to boost properly though, i think it might be in the "stock" program and the flashloader software wont let me change it. Flashloader tells me "switching not supported" when i try to read or switch programs. I tried with the ignition on, off, and the car on, same result. I am using a ross-tech hex-usb which works just fine with vag-com, so thats not it. 
Anyways, when i get on the gas, the car might boost to 14-15 psi for a split second, then drop to 7 psi, from there it'll reach 12 psi, drop back down to 7 and so on, it'll do this flutter until i shift out of that gear. I thought it might be a boost leak so i checked everything with the car and everything is right, Switched back to the apr ecu and it'll boost to 25 psi then throw itself into limp mode, but at least that tells me the hardware in the car is fine. I tried it with the stock n75, n75j and with the maf connected and disconnected, nothing changes this erratic behavior. Oh, a couple of times when the boost didn't flutter from 7-12psi and actually held strong at 7psi, the power felt really strong. 
does any of you have the "stock" option on your giac programming to see if this is how the car acts in this program? i think its either stuck there and wont let me switch it or there is something really wrong with the software. I'm tired of dealing with these ecu issues already.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (quiksilverGTI)*

When I got flashed with GIAC, I was told there was no "stock" program with this SW.







I never tried to put it in stock mode with my flashloader though?? hmmmm....... 
I did, however, have problems with the ECU excepting flashloader changes at first. It seriously took about 100 times of switching from the PUMP porgram to the RACE program to get it to stay in Race mode. Do you have a handheld flashloader?


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

i just got an LSD yay!


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_i just got an LSD yay!
 thats in the not so far future for me also http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

im wondering if its gonna cut my 60' down at all, the general idea is that it wont. spining two tires instead of one has to help. 
i mainly purchased it because i run SM(street mod) auto-x which allows turbo\engine swaps. so i need all the help i can get.
hahha SWEET this should be post 5,000!!!!!
im not a post whore either.

beachball6 has been a member for 1328 days. that has included (87 16v rocco(sold







) 65 2332cc beetle, still have. 87 16v gti gave it away, audi 87 coupe(parted out http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif ) 68 autostick beetle, gave back to my dad. 2001 gti, also still have. soon if all goes well an aircooled truck








5000 posts (3.76 posts per day on average)









_Modified by beachball6 at 11:22 PM 12-9-2006_


_Modified by beachball6 at 11:22 PM 12-9-2006_


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (beachball6)*

it's not your 60 ft that needs help


----------



## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

ill admit, i just suck at driving


----------



## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_When I got flashed with GIAC, I was told there was no "stock" program with this SW.







I never tried to put it in stock mode with my flashloader though?? hmmmm....... 
I did, however, have problems with the ECU excepting flashloader changes at first. It seriously took about 100 times of switching from the PUMP porgram to the RACE program to get it to stay in Race mode. Do you have a handheld flashloader?

does your flashloader at least read what program the ecu is in? mine wont even do that. Its not the handheld, its the flashloader software on my laptop. It keeps trying to connect then after a minute or so it'll pop up with : "switching not supported. bye" I'm going to try it again today with a different laptop and if that doesn't work i'm going to put an mbc in there to see if it helps


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (quiksilverGTI)*

yeah, my handheld will read what program is loaded. I'd say, go buy the handheld and try it that way


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

I am officially K04-20'd... or k04-23'd or whatever. as of last night. Car feels pretty strong, geared in 2nd I can get on it and break traction all the way through the gear and bark 3rd. this is with good tires and 93. Will dyno soon!


----------



## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: (nuther337)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nuther337* »_I am officially K04-20'd... or k04-23'd or whatever. as of last night. Car feels pretty strong, geared in 2nd I can get on it and break traction all the way through the gear and bark 3rd. this is with good tires and 93. Will dyno soon!

nice to hear that, now go jump on a dyno!!


----------



## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

rad


----------



## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (nuther337)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nuther337* »_I am officially K04-20'd... or k04-23'd or whatever. as of last night. Car feels pretty strong, geared in 2nd I can get on it and break traction all the way through the gear and bark 3rd. this is with good tires and 93. Will dyno soon!

can't wait to be having similar traction issues, haha. Waht software are you running on yours?


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (quiksilverGTI)*

P-I Revo S3.


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (nuther337)*

anybody know anything about the new Select-Plus controllers?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (nuther337)*

Do you mean SPS 3 device?


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (nuther337)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nuther337* »_I am officially K04-20'd... or k04-23'd or whatever. as of last night. Car feels pretty strong, geared in 2nd I can get on it and break traction all the way through the gear and bark 3rd. this is with good tires and 93. Will dyno soon!








Either you had 40 psi in your tires or your suspension is soft







Get that thing on a dyno


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_







Either you had 40 psi in your tires or your suspension is soft







Get that thing on a dyno









i vote for both


----------



## Rave Green VR6 (Aug 18, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_Do you mean SPS 3 device?


No, the new Revo controller coming out. Select plus.


----------



## Rave Green VR6 (Aug 18, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_







Either you had 40 psi in your tires or your suspension is soft







Get that thing on a dyno









Probably close to 40 psi. on 18's that's not a heck of a lot for daily driving. And my suspension is all done. Koni Coils, Neuspeed Sways front and rear, Eurosport front and rear lower tie-bars, Poly-mounts, and fresh heavy-duty strut-mounts and bearings.


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (Rave Green VR6)*

Sorry, my girlfriend was logged in with her account. that's me up there.


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (nuther337)*

Tonight it felt a little more laggy, perhaps it's just me. I'm holding boost between 1.2 and 1.35 Bar though. Whatever that translates to in PSI







. I got a fault for my DV. It has been acting funny though. I have it set to the softest settting (Forge type RS). It is adjustable from 7-infinity PSI. I am getting the flutter as if the spring is too stiff. I will get my stocker on there and see if anything changes though I think my stock valve is leaking.


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (nuther337)*

Im really new at the turbo thing so im not sure weather or not I should spend the money on a catch can or not. Would you guys recommend a catch can for k04-20? or is that overkill? thanks


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*

Does anyone know the size of the inlet on the ko4-20 Gonna have a TIP fabbed up. I dont have it sittin in front of me or I would just measure it. thanks


_Modified by Bluebomber at 11:59 PM 12-11-2006_


----------



## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

it will be cheaper to just buy one


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*

actually a company is just gonna modify one they make for the ko3 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Is the inlet 2" thanks


----------



## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

i do not see how u can modify from the ko3, there completely different shape and the inlet size from a ko3-to the 20 is a huge diff to stretch to fit, same with bigger maf too


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bluebomber* »_Im really new at the turbo thing so im not sure weather or not I should spend the money on a catch can or not. Would you guys recommend a catch can for k04-20? or is that overkill? thanks


Just redo your PCV system. change the PCV check valve and change all your ear clamps to some good ones. You can also do the check valve mod and you will hold better boost. I did all this not to long ago and I hold boost better than before. My PCV sytem had a leak at the booster valve and all my ear clamps were loose. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Rave Green VR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Rave Green VR6* »_
No, the new Revo controller coming out. Select plus.


The new revo controller select plus is only for 2.0TFSI applications. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bluebomber* »_Does anyone know the size of the inlet on the ko4-20 Gonna have a TIP fabbed up. I dont have it sittin in front of me or I would just measure it. thanks

_Modified by Bluebomber at 11:59 PM 12-11-2006_

Just buy the right one from Pro IMports or another company that makes it for the AUDI TT. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (nuther337)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nuther337* »_I am officially K04-20'd... or k04-23'd or whatever. as of last night. Car feels pretty strong, geared in 2nd I can get on it and break traction all the way through the gear and bark 3rd. this is with good tires and 93. Will dyno soon!

If you dyno your kit I will personally paypal you some $ for the dynos. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

check valve mod?


----------



## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

*Re: (sh{}e)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sh{}e* »_
If you dyno your kit I will personally paypal you some $ for the dynos. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

lets meet up and have a dyno session then


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (theswoleguy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *theswoleguy* »_check valve mod?


http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...age=1

Good read! Good Mod if you have not done it already! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_

The new revo controller select plus is only for 2.0TFSI applications. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

They have not "officially" released the controllers for our ecu's but I am told that they are coming out very soon. Perhaps I have been lied to, I don't know?







Patrick says he has gotten a shipment and will be doing some testing and such. I've already got some money on mine.


----------



## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...age=1

Good read! Good Mod if you have not done it already! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
 link good but pictures arent thanks though ill read into it and see if i can get it to work. 
Ok i think i have it figured out... Basically pop the hose off the bottom of the IM that goes to the PCV system and isntall the check valve there.


_Modified by theswoleguy at 12:11 PM 12-12-2006_


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

Yes basically. You pop the hose off the intake manifold nipple, put in a one way check valve and you are done. Helps to check if you have any leaks around the vacuum booster and around the hoses on your PCV system, replace all your one time OEM ear clamps also. When I did mine, I had a big leak at the vacuum booster and all my ear clamps where loose.


----------



## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WinnersCIRCLE* »_
lets meet up and have a dyno session then









Which sw do you have? GIAC or Revo? We should get together then, how far away are you from baltimore county or anne arundel?


----------



## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

i am at 29/32 ill have my car back in the next 2 weeks we can go to extreme where i dynod before, u keep the sheets and post them up


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

Hey winnersCIRCLE what were your dyno numbers with the ko4?


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_Hey winnersCIRCLE what were your dyno numbers with the ko4?

I know what he did... but people won't believe it b/c there are no sheets to back it...







I'll let him deal with that...


----------



## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

pm me if u want to know my numbazzzzzzzzzz


----------



## Navydub (Sep 30, 2006)

Wow, I just found this thread and both of you guys are way close to me.
Anyway do you think it'd be possible to get a ride with one of you sometime? I just want to see how a K04-2x car pulls, as I'm thinking about going that direction next spring.


----------



## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

yea sure i sometimes go to the local gtgs, the car is in the body shop right now but iwill have it back in 2 weeks or so


----------



## Navydub (Sep 30, 2006)

Alright, I haven't been to any of the gtgs yet, I just got my Jetta not long ago. But I've been thinking of going, so I guess this is just more reason now.


----------



## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

cool


----------



## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*

look for this


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*

*I'm glad to hear that your car was not totaled!* http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

me too


----------



## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

thanks guys i appriciate that


----------



## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*

Any other locals that can give me a ride or show me their k04-2x this weekend


----------



## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: (sh{}e)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sh{}e* »_Any other locals that can give me a ride or show me their k04-2x this weekend









X2
I would really like to ride in the car that has ko4-20 before i put it in. I just want to see how harder does it pull from chipped ko3s. 
Anyone in GA with this setup????


----------



## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: (MrcinaGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MrcinaGTI* »_
X2
I would really like to ride in the car that has ko4-20 before i put it in. I just want to see how harder does it pull from chipped ko3s. 
Anyone in GA with this setup????









x3 for the ride
x2 for a local GA person


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

*Re: (theswoleguy)*

I'd like to race one.....


----------



## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: (T-Boy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *T-Boy* »_I'd like to race one.....








 Winnercircle said he gave his friends SIII a good run. I rode in APR's Red GLI with the stage III and it was... a fun ride lol


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (theswoleguy)*

If you guys come to NY, I will give rides and race! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_If you guys come to NY, I will give rides and race! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

no, but u can come down to GA.


----------



## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: (MrcinaGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MrcinaGTI* »_
no, but u can come down to GA.









ya we have Atlanta and the World of Coke


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (theswoleguy)*

All the fast k04-20 GTI/JETTAS are in the NORTH EAST!


----------



## spoolin turbo s (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

i want to see a dyno sheet 
6 pages and not a single dyno


----------



## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

*Re: (MrcinaGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MrcinaGTI* »_
X2
I would really like to ride in the car that has ko4-20 before i put it in. I just want to see how harder does it pull from chipped ko3s. 
Anyone in GA with this setup????









doesnt pull any harder really, just pulls longer i guess u can say


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

*Re: (spoolin turbo s)*

I;d like to see some dynos or even 1/4 traps....


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*

Mine pulls noticeably harder than my k03s, also keeps going where my k03s would give up. I'm in Hotlanta for work right now but I do not have my ride.


----------



## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: (nuther337)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nuther337* »_Mine pulls noticeably harder than my k03s, also keeps going where my k03s would give up. I'm in Hotlanta for work right now but I do not have my ride.









Thats sucks. Next time drive it to Atlanta,







.
Bump for some dyno charts or 1/4 time.


----------



## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

ehhh if u think about it doesnt pull that much harder, just longer


----------



## spoolin turbo s (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WinnersCIRCLE* »_ehhh if u think about it doesnt pull that much harder, just longer


how about responding to my pm Winnerscircle


----------



## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

never got your pm? pop up blocker is on


----------



## spoolin turbo s (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*

ok then 
what did you dyno?
how much boost?
thats what i pmed you http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

i told u once before and u didnt belive me i think


----------



## spoolin turbo s (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*

i haven't been on here in like 4 months until the other day when i moved and got the net back


----------



## WinnersCIRCLE (Aug 9, 2006)

o no that was the 20psi at redline remark, it made enough power, that all u gotta know


----------



## spoolin turbo s (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*

how childish can we be today


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (spoolin turbo s)*

I will DYNO at WATERFEST so people can see with their own eyes instead of online. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Plus it's cheaper! So whoever goes to waterfest can see.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_All the fast k04-20 GTI/JETTAS are in the NORTH EAST!


----------



## k04-20 (Dec 15, 2006)

anti riced claims hes gonna pay for me to dyno when i get my car back


----------



## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (spoolin turbo s)*


_Quote, originally posted by *spoolin turbo s* »_how childish can we be today










he cant afford a digital camera but posted an a coilover for sale thread. PWNED!()[email protected]*(*@(!(*!(

dude seriously its 2006 very close to 2007, get a digital cam. even a crappy one. spend 40 bucks just so we can see this dyno. if not, this is just going to become my recurring joke with you where i end each post with
get digi cam yet dude?


----------



## k04-20 (Dec 15, 2006)

LOL hahahahaha when me and anti riced do this ill give him my old sheet so he can take a pic to put on here <3


----------



## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (k04-20)*


_Quote, originally posted by *k04-20* »_anti riced claims hes gonna pay for me to dyno when i get my car back

I'm willing to pay for a dyno for a local. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (k04-20)*


_Quote, originally posted by *k04-20* »_LOL hahahahaha when me and anti riced do this ill give him my old sheet so he can take a pic to put on here <3

what is this username number 6 for the year?


----------



## k04-20 (Dec 15, 2006)

*Re: (sh{}e)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sh{}e* »_
I'm willing to pay for a dyno for a local. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


ill give u a pm when i get my car back


----------



## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (k04-20)*


_Quote, originally posted by *k04-20* »_

ill give u a pm when i get my car back

Sounds good http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

I also sent u a PM Winnercircle, just wanna know your dyno numbers, Thanks


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_I also sent u a PM Winnercircle, just wanna know your dyno numbers, Thanks

His dyno #'s are a little inflated.....dyno tricks


----------



## spoolin turbo s (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
His dyno #'s are a little inflated.....dyno tricks









tricks such as?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (spoolin turbo s)*

So I was driving to my Christmas party, and as soon as I get into the parking lot, my car has this sudden lost of power and started gurgling like an STI with exhaust. My check engine light came on and started flashing, but I had no tools on me as I was 1 hour and a half away from my house. I had to leave my car overnight till the next morning. I had blown a coil pack at 91,000 miles and was on 3 cylinders. I switched all 4 coil packs from the L's to the R's and changed my spark plugs just incase I had fouled one up. Car runs much better and got rid of all the little hesitation and misfires it had. Just wanted to add this since the thread has been quiet. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_So I was driving to my Christmas party, and as soon as I get into the parking lot, my car has this sudden lost of power and started gurgling like an STI with exhaust. My check engine light came on and started flashing, but I had no tools on me as I was 1 hour and a half away from my house. I had to leave my car overnight till the next morning. I had blown a coil pack at 91,000 miles and was on 3 cylinders. I switched all 4 coil packs from the L's to the R's and changed my spark plugs just incase I had fouled one up. Car runs much better and got rid of all the little hesitation and misfires it had. Just wanted to add this since the thread has been quiet. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif









That happened to me the other day, only mine blowe 2 coil packs.







at 80k.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I didn't get through every page in here, but I did skim after reading the first 4 pages, so I'm hoping not to get flamed here...
Does anyone know if I can use my stock upper intercooler pipe w/a k04-020 setup? I know the exhaust mani is on a weird angle, but does the stock one clear it - just use lots of heat shielding? Or can I maybe use my stock on and just weld a little extention or something? I don't want to pay $200 for the PI one, so ANY help would be great.
Second question, anyone have any experience with using different turbo inlet pipes? Anyone try an ATP one by chance? I got a good deal on one and think I may try it?
Thanks!


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I believe the stock intercooler piping fits but you might have to make some adjustments. I think one of the guys on here is selling the PI intercooler piping for cheap. As for the Turbo Inlet Pipe i would stick with the one made for the kit or anyone made for the audi TT 225 hp. It is the best one that will work. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

If someone is selling their upper intercooler pipe from the PI kit please IM me! If I can get a good deal I'll buy it like...now!
I think I'm going to try to use the ATP inlet pipe b/c if it doesn't work I can always throw the stock TT one on there for the time being and sell the ATP one and then get a Samco one or sometihng.


----------



## spoolin turbo s (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (spoolin turbo s)*


_Quote, originally posted by *spoolin turbo s* »_
tricks such as?

HELLO


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (spoolin turbo s)*


_Quote, originally posted by *spoolin turbo s* »_
HELLO

HI








Want to buy an ECU for your car?


----------



## Patrick Swayze (Dec 19, 2006)

*Re: (spoolin turbo s)*


_Quote, originally posted by *spoolin turbo s* »_
HELLO

goodbye


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (Patrick Swayze)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Patrick Swayze* »_
goodbye


----------



## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Is there any decent tq improvement with the set-up?


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (sh{}e)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sh{}e* »_Is there any decent tq improvement with the set-up?


thats a joke right?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (sh{}e)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sh{}e* »_Is there any decent tq improvement with the set-up?




































Um only if you consider over 350ftlbs of torque to the wheel on water/meth and race gas an improvement over stock! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_



































Um only if you consider over 350ftlbs of torque to the wheel on water/meth and race gas an improvement over stock! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

sounds of rods breathing fresh air







thats not a hole thats a cooling vent port for the crankcase. Some how in low gears i see alot of tire smoke or wheel spin at that tq rating.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (theswoleguy)*

Not saying its healthy for the car to drive with this amount of torque unless you have a built motor. Im just saying its capable of it. Good for a dyno run. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

I'm not talking about race gas, just pump gas and non-meth/water. I dont go by pro-imports happy dyno.....


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (sh{}e)*

bout 280wtrq give or take. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

i made 289 to the wheels on pump, PI dyno isnt happy. its just they had the time to tune it to EXACTLY how they wanted it for the car they tested on.


----------



## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (beachball6)*

My offer to dyno locals are still up, PM me if you're interested. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
You can have either Revo or Giac sw.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (sh{}e)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sh{}e* »_My offer to dyno locals are still up, PM me if you're interested. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
You can have either Revo or Giac sw.

Just buy the kit mang.....~235 whp and 270 ft lbs is going to be an average. Kit auto-x kit and good starter kit for drag racing (at least for me) to learn how to drive fwd cars vs the rwd cars I used to race http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
Just buy the kit mang.....~235 whp and 270 ft lbs is going to be an average. Kit auto-x kit and good starter kit for drag racing (at least for me) to learn how to drive fwd cars vs the rwd cars I used to race http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

TQ seems nice but I dont care much for spikes in the powerband. I really would like to see user dynos. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif which is why I'm willing to pay for the dyno session.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (sh{}e)*

I think this turbo makes it's big TQ #'s from the spike you get at 3100 rpm....you may want to ask Jeremy to put a mbc in overboost mode to settle the spike then dyno and see what #'s come then.
The spike from the -02x is different than the spike of the ko3s. It is definitely more controlable with you left foot http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Nitro7853 (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

I like how sketchy these ko4 turbo's are








Its just funny to me how I havn't seen one dyno yet of theyre capabilities. Would some one put this down and post a dyno seriously nowwww








merry christmas fella's


----------



## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (Nitro7853)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Nitro7853* »_I like how sketchy these ko4 turbo's are








Its just funny to me how I havn't seen one dyno yet of theyre capabilities. Would some one put this down and post a dyno seriously nowwww









merry christmas fella's










one guy who claims to have over 250 whp also claims to not own a digital camera









the fact is that when a turbo produces numbers people are proud of, then we see them posted up here on the tex. there are a plethora of gt28r and t3super60 dynos and track numbers to sift through. yet the infamous "oem solution" (which it freaking isnt, you need a new mani, downpipe, and TIP; just because it was stock on another VAG car does not make anything about it OEM when its on yours) has next to no evidence supporting it on these boards. Therefore, someone with any common sense is forced to conclude that they don't really perform that well at all.
http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## Nitro7853 (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: (GiacGtiAgain)*

man that was a verbal spanking to all ko4 users out there. 
well could someone put out a dyno so I can see if its worth it or not.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (Nitro7853)*

Let me ask you 2 a question? Would you rather have a dyno queen or a fast car? To me, ET's > dyno's. 
I can't post any dyno's, cause for the same 60 buxs, I could spend a day at the track, far more worth it to me IMHO. If you want to do an ET to whp conversion, here are my #'s on 93 oct 13.24 @ 102 with a ko4-023 on GIAC SW


----------



## Nitro7853 (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif







Nice


----------



## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: (Nitro7853)*

hey guys, why did Pro-Imports raised their price of this turbo to $1,200.00??
It used to be 1k, any idea why they raised it?


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

i have my dyno and it was up for some while.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (beachball6)*

So what you guys, that have not seen a dyno for the k04-20, saying that a k03 sport and a k04-001 can produce numbers close to the ones we k04-20 users claim but the k04-20 turbo that is a a bigger turbo can't produce decent numbers?







I must say these guys are being modest. This turbo is capable of much more than what these guys are stating. All that is needed is that almost perfect tune, which we all know is not easy accomplishing. Imagine someone bringing a dyno with 290 wtrq on the ko4-20 on 93oct that would be so flamed





















. First thing they would say," oh it was a happy dyno". If we give low numbers then the dyno was working. These turbos are capable of good things. I'd rather take people for rides than show numbers. I have taken people with BIG turbo set ups for rides. And i mean real big turbos not no damn Gt28rs', and they have been very impressed. I myself was a big turbo owner on a different car (MAZDA RX7)and i was impressed. So whoever wants a ride then come to NY and stop flaming without knowing shEET! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif *THIS NOT A TURBO FOR DRAG RACING BUT A FUN, Quick, Torquey turbo for daily driving. I went with it cause of the OEM reliabilty and nothing else ,the extra power was just a PLUS for me* http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 7:02 PM 12-25-2006_


----------



## Small Turbo (Dec 26, 2006)

*Re: (sh{}e)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sh{}e* »_
TQ seems nice but I dont care much for spikes in the powerband. I really would like to see user dynos. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif which is why I'm willing to pay for the dyno session.

when i get my car back, then you can pay for my dyno session, the only place i dyno my cars is 75 for 2 pulls


----------



## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_So what you guys, that have not seen a dyno for the k04-20, saying that a k03 sport and a k04-001 can produce numbers close to the ones we k04-20 users claim but the k04-20 turbo that is a a bigger turbo can't produce decent numbers?








I must say these guys are being modest. This turbo is capable of much more than what these guys are stating. All that is needed is that almost perfect tune, which we all know is not easy accomplishing. Imagine someone bringing a dyno with 290 wtrq on the ko4-20 on 93oct that would be so flamed





















. First thing they would say," oh it was a happy dyno". If we give low numbers then the dyno was working. These turbos are capable of good things. I'd rather take people for rides than show numbers. I have taken people with BIG turbo set ups for rides. And i mean real big turbos not no damn Gt28rs', and they have been very impressed. I myself was a big turbo owner on a different car (MAZDA RX7)and i was impressed. So whoever wants a ride then come to NY and stop flaming without knowing shEET! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif *THIS NOT A TURBO FOR DRAG RACING BUT A FUN, Quick, Torquey turbo for daily driving. I went with it cause of the OEM reliabilty and nothing else ,the extra power was just a PLUS for me* http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 7:02 PM 12-25-2006_


go to the dyno or run it at the track. i could care less honestly how it feels. TDIs feel fast. if you want a torquey, fun turbo to drive thats not good for drag racing, then a k03s is fine.

regardless of anything you just said, the turbo should still produce HP numbers or track numbers signifigantly better then a k03s to be considred worth it. like it or not, drag racing is a good indication of how fast a car is. between the 60 foot times, 1/4 mile ET and 1/4 mile trap speed you get a VERY good indication of the nature of a car. people who say dynos and track numbers mean nothing are people who have no good dynos or good track numbers.

a gt28r isnt exactly a turbo built for dynos OR drag racing but those guys seem to have plenty of slips and graphs.


----------



## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (GiacGtiAgain)*

I couldn't of said that better myself http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (sh{}e)*

I don't think any of us here that bought and installed a k04-20 signed an agreement to get the car dynoed or post up time slips for all of the vortex to see. When i finally get my software right in the next week or so I plan on taking it to the track, but I suck at drag racing, so if i post up my times no one will be impressed. As far as the dyno goes, I'll probably never make a run on one. When i step on the accelerator and drive the car I'll decide if my investment was worth it or not. I don't need to justify it on paper. 
So for everybody that demands dyno runs and track times like its our obligation, go ahead and make an offer like sh{}e did and pay for somebody's dyno run or just go ahead and take the plunge like the rest of us and find out that way.


----------



## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (quiksilverGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *quiksilverGTI* »_I don't think any of us here that bought and installed a k04-20 signed an agreement to get the car dynoed or post up time slips for all of the vortex to see. When i finally get my software right in the next week or so I plan on taking it to the track, but I suck at drag racing, so if i post up my times no one will be impressed. As far as the dyno goes, I'll probably never make a run on one. When i step on the accelerator and drive the car I'll decide if my investment was worth it or not. I don't need to justify it on paper. 
So for everybody that demands dyno runs and track times like its our obligation, go ahead and make an offer like sh{}e did and pay for somebody's dyno run or just go ahead and take the plunge like the rest of us and find out that way. 


i look forward to seeing your track results. since you say your a bad driver i wont hold your ET against you. But your trap speed will still be important to me; and anybody with half a brain can drive their car well enough to get a realistic trap speed. good luck http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (GiacGtiAgain)*

I <3 traps


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## spoolin turbo s (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

its just that 8 pages of people taling about this OEM style kit could get maybe ONE dyno


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## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_I <3 traps


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## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (GiacGtiAgain)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GiacGtiAgain* »_

i look forward to seeing your track results. since you say your a bad driver i wont hold your ET against you. But your trap speed will still be important to me; and anybody with half a brain can drive their car well enough to get a realistic trap speed. good luck http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

no prob, i'll post up my results, let me check the track schedule before i start making promises as to when i'm going to run, although i don't think they close down for the winter months here in Florida


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## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: (MrcinaGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MrcinaGTI* »_hey guys, why did Pro-Imports raised their price of this turbo to $1,200.00??
It used to be 1k, any idea why they raised it? 

bump, anyone knows??


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## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (quiksilverGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *quiksilverGTI* »_
no prob, i'll post up my results, let me check the track schedule before i start making promises as to when i'm going to run, although i don't think they close down for the winter months here in Florida









January 20th, drive up to gainesville raceway. There will be a GTG of sorts. I will be there. Then we will have slips from two k04-20'd silver GTI's. One 5-speed and one 6-speed. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif







let me find you a link.


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (nuther337)*

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2979860


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_The 14.0 ET? I thought that too









got jokes... lol


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (beachball6)*

What spark plugs are the k04-20 owners using? The Bosch FR5 DTC ,3 PRONG OR BKR7E? I use the BKR7E gapped at 27-28 but my car likes the FR5. Opinions? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (MrcinaGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MrcinaGTI* »_hey guys, why did Pro-Imports raised their price of this turbo to $1,200.00??
It used to be 1k, any idea why they raised it? 


*Maybe Borg Warner is charging them more so they have to charge the customers more.? *http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_

*Maybe Borg Warner is charging them more so they have to charge the customers more.? *http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

maybeeee


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## Small Turbo (Dec 26, 2006)

they just came off national back order so maybe BG raised the price due to this


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Small Turbo)*

WOuld a *3.5 bar FPR *work instead of the 4 bar? My car was running to *rich* with the *4* bar. I had excess soot on my hatch and lower rear bumper and on my muffler tips (REMUS DUAL TIPs facing upwards contributes to this alot







) and lots of popping backfire. I was told flames were coming out the back at night.














I switched to 3 bar for the moment but the car just does not feel as strong in 4th and 5th gear as it did with the 4bar. The 3 bar eliminated the soot and popping backfires, but took some power from 4th and 5th gears. The guy at the dealer told me it was running 1.1% rich. Is that a lot? This is with the Bosch 380 white tops on REVO SW. Im still debating weather I should get the GENESIS 380cc with a GENESIS 3.5 bar FPR? *HAS ANYONE TRIED THIS*?


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Try the TT injectors with the 3 bar. run some logs, then drop the 4 bar in there and do the same. Butt dyno's don't mean squat, see what the car likes by running logs


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## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_Try the TT injectors with the 3 bar. run some logs, then drop the 4 bar in there and do the same. Butt dyno's don't mean squat, see what the car likes by running logs









people who say butt dyno's don't mean squat are people who have no good butt dynos.

ok now im just screwing with you.


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## Small Turbo (Dec 26, 2006)

PI has logs they can email you of their car, i feel the white tops need the 3 bar while the tt needs the 3.5 or 4
225tt uses the 4bar and there lower comp, i think with our higher comp and higher boost levels need more pressure..
can u agree with that slo?


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## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (Small Turbo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Small Turbo* »_PI has logs they can email you of their car, i feel the white tops need the 3 bar while the tt needs the 3.5 or 4
225tt uses the 4bar and there lower comp, i think with our higher comp and higher boost levels need more pressure..
can u agree with that slo?

As long as you have enough fuel doesnt matter. Our stock injectors max out at like 250hp so the TT should be fine.
I hate the fact that some say use different fpr and see how your car likes it.....That means the software plain sux.... You change your fpr you're literally increasing or decreasing the CC your injectors are rated at.


_Modified by sh{}e at 2:01 PM 12-28-2006_


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

First question I asked Pro Imports when I bought the kit was what FPR should i use i have a 5speed AWW engine. They said we are including a 4 bar FPR in your kit. Try them both and see which one works better for you. I was like WTF














? Is the software written for 3 or 4 bar? Or does it just adapt to whatever?


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 7:44 AM 12-29-2006_


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## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

adapts, i run a 4 bar in my AWW. dan did some runs and logs on 3bar and then sold me a 4bar. so i couldnt tell you how it ran on 3


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (beachball6)*

Do you run REVO or GIAC. Do you think the white top injectors with 4 bar are what is causing all the soot out the exhaust and the popping backfires or is it just a Software issue? With the 3 bar, i have hardly any SOOT and no popping backfires, but car does not feel as strong as it does with 4 bar. This is why I am just going to conform with the 3.5 bar FPR with 380 genisis injectors. I just can't afford the audi tt blue tops at the moment. Unless someone has some for cheap










_Modified by 01gtiaww at 2:43 PM 12-29-2006_


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

There is no real way to feel 3-5 hp guys. Run what the SW was written for. The Bosch injectors suck, so try the Genesis at whatever Revo reccomends. If you really want to see what the motor likes, run some logs


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_ Run what the SW was written for. 


That is what im trying to figure out. What is the REVO k04-20 software written for? Also, i read somewhere that one of you guys was running a 4.7 Zener diode? Can I put my diode back in with this turbo? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 2:48 PM 12-29-2006_


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

sure lol. Itll do the same thing it does on the ko3 and ko3s. Your computer goes blind after 17lbs. I would def do logs on that beast. As well as, if SAVWKO can make 322wtq on a ko3s, granted might have been a spike, you guys can damn near generate that on pump gas, I would worry about making a banana out of one of your rods. That would be my main concern.
I would use it more if you having throttle body shut down, but make sure you have an overboost solution kit. I would really worry about the quick spool and massive tq spike you could generate with a k04-2x. Mad tire spin im sure though lol


_Modified by theswoleguy at 2:57 PM 12-29-2006_


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

I was told the Revo SW was written for the TT injectors (364cc) @ 4bar. Going to the 380cc Genesis injectors at 4 bar isn't that much of a diff, so the ECU can adapt the extra fuel out. Whatever you do, just gid rid of those white top Bosch's. Even USRT's website lists them as obsolete










_Modified by SloJTI at 2:00 PM 12-29-2006_


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_I just can't afford the audi tt blue tops at the moment. Unless someone has some for cheap









http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2994992


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## PolskiHetzen (Apr 25, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_ WOuld a *3.5 bar FPR *work instead of the 4 bar? My car was running to *rich* with the *4* bar. I had excess soot on my hatch and lower rear bumper and on my muffler tips (REMUS DUAL TIPs facing upwards contributes to this alot







) and lots of popping backfire. I was told flames were coming out the back at night.














I switched to 3 bar for the moment but the car just does not feel as strong in 4th and 5th gear as it did with the 4bar. The 3 bar eliminated the soot and popping backfires, but took some power from 4th and 5th gears. The guy at the dealer told me it was running 1.1% rich. Is that a lot? This is with the Bosch 380 white tops on REVO SW. Im still debating weather I should get the GENESIS 380cc with a GENESIS 3.5 bar FPR? *HAS ANYONE TRIED THIS*?

The FPR shouldn't change your AF. You have other issues. The ECU will run what a/f it wants to run as long as it has enough injector. 
Check for boost/exhaust leaks.


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Thanks! I IM'ed the guy telling i would take them! Thanks for looking out!














I'm so happy!


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## gtifella2 (Dec 1, 2005)

i want to peice together a whole kit what do i all need for a maximum output?


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (gtifella2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtifella2* »_i want to peice together a whole kit what do i all need for a maximum output?


search is your friend









http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3000863


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## gtifella2 (Dec 1, 2005)

i did i cant find ****


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (gtifella2)*

There are many threads about this setup in the last year. Look up Winnercircle & slogls (my previous sn).


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (gtifella2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtifella2* »_i did i cant find ****


*I guess you did not read this whole thread. All the info and more is right on this thread.* http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

I'm up for dyno still http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Maybe a stupid question... but there are no GIAC dealers really close to me so I have to drive around on stock programming for a while - what injectors should I use and does anyone think I'll have any issues? I have the TT injectors. 
Oh yeah, I'm still working on the install.. it's been a good 14 hr project already - the oil feed line (k03s and k04 too) being worth a good combined 7 hours probably. Worst part of the install no question about it. Now I'm just trying to get the oil feed line hooked into the top of the turbo then Im going to mount the exhaust mani and get all of the intake stuff done and hope it all works.


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Keep the stock injectors in untill you get flashed. Then swap out, but in hte mean time, stay out of the boost or you will run lean up top. Use whatever you have to, an easy foot, boost controller, whatever, just stay below 10psi.
Good luck with the rest of the install and post up your results http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

The hardest part for me when i did the install was getting that top oil feedline in with the damn washers. I did the install like 5 times no lie cause the first turbo i bought had a seal leak and was leaking oil all over and i did not figure it out till the 4th time







. Returned it to Pro Imports and they gave me another one http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Ha ha... I'm having the same issues w/the washers and the oil line. Although for me the oil line isn't exactly lining up right either. So moral of the story... the feed line is just a bitch. I'm trying again now.


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

What if I put my 4bar in w/stockers? I heard somewhere that since the car is wideband that it'll adjust itself for richness as well?


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

If you have APR 93 on your car with vtune you can probably adjust a little and run it that way till you get the right software. Stock injectors at 4 bar are not going to run the right flow that the k04-20 requires. You will run lean and that is not good. You can do it but you can't get on it and it wont run right. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Its safer to run rich than lean. If you dont have a mbc then just flip the n75 around and you wont boost more than 5psi.


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## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (sh{}e)*

i ran the car with tt injectors, k04-20 and 3"maf on apr 93 for a couple of months, no issues other than it throwing itself into limp mode because it kept overboosting, solved by putting in the stock n75 valve. Just got my giac software in yesterday, gotta work out a few things, mainly my lack of part throttle boost, then its off to the track http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (quiksilverGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *quiksilverGTI* »_i ran the car with tt injectors, k04-20 and 3"maf on apr 93 for a couple of months, no issues other than it throwing itself into limp mode because it kept overboosting, solved by putting in the stock n75 valve. Just got my giac software in yesterday, gotta work out a few things, mainly my lack of part throttle boost, then its off to the track http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Do a TB alignment, could be your cause of weird part throttle boost


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I've decided that I'm going to run the 4bar w/the stock injectors. Keep in mind that I am on STOCK programming as well. I'm just hoping the 4bar fixes any potential leaning out... Anyone have any objections or anything to this idea? 
Also.... I just finally got the turbo installed - still working on the turbo inlet pipe and the charge pipe. I ended up finding out that the TT oil return line DOESN'T fit... at least not on my car. I had to custom make one. Also, if anyone else decides to run the stock charge pipe from the outlet... it's about a 3" increase in top length and about 4" increase in bottom lenght. Give or take a little. I'm running the stock one to keep my piping consistant as opposed to doing 2.5" into 2" which is not what I like...


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## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_I've decided that I'm going to run the 4bar w/the stock injectors. Keep in mind that I am on STOCK programming as well. I'm just hoping the 4bar fixes any potential leaning out... Anyone have any objections or anything to this idea? 
Also.... I just finally got the turbo installed - still working on the turbo inlet pipe and the charge pipe. I ended up finding out that the TT oil return line DOESN'T fit... at least not on my car. I had to custom make one. Also, if anyone else decides to run the stock charge pipe from the outlet... it's about a 3" increase in top length and about 4" increase in bottom lenght. Give or take a little. I'm running the stock one to keep my piping consistant as opposed to doing 2.5" into 2" which is not what I like...


why did you get rid of your apr 93 programming? given the success that some people have had with stock turbo chip tuning, i would think you would have better results with a chipped ECU then an ecu set to bone stock settings. good luck though.


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## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
Do a TB alignment, could be your cause of weird part throttle boost

TB alignment was the first thing i did when i swapped ecu's, it seems to have gotten better today as i drove it more. I forgot i had the stock n75 in there at the moment so i'm going to put the j valve back in to see if things improve. Full throttle, it hauls, holds about 18-19 psi till 7000rpm. Going to check out my diverter valve while i'm in there, not sure if its bleeding off boost at part throttle, i can hear it sounding like its partially open sometimes. Then I'll probably bypass the n249 valve this weekend if i'm bored just to simplify things a bit.


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## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (GiacGtiAgain)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GiacGtiAgain* »_

why did you get rid of your apr 93 programming? given the success that some people have had with stock turbo chip tuning, i would think you would have better results with a chipped ECU then an ecu set to bone stock settings. good luck though.

he's running stock programming till he gets the giac file put on


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_I've decided that I'm going to run the 4bar w/the stock injectors. Keep in mind that I am on STOCK programming as well. I'm just hoping the 4bar fixes any potential leaning out... Anyone have any objections or anything to this idea? 

I do







Run a mbc also. I don't want to see a carnage thread involving your motor.


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## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
I do







Run a mbc also. I don't want to see a carnage thread involving your motor.

mine survived a few spikes to 26psi with stock injectors, lol, no carnage thread yet


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

I don't intend to beat on it too much.... I mean I'm going to have to push it around a little before I put the GIAC file on the ECU so I can be sure I won't run into issues when I throw some real boost around...
I got everything done just about an hour ago and took it around the block for a little while. I ended up needing to add coolant - which I expected until the engine started circulating the fresh stuff I had put in. I have a small oil leak - that's an issue that really needs adressing. It seems to only do a little like 1/2 penny size drop every couple of mins, but I need to figure out where it's coming from. I took the car out and the only issues I had involved some weird idle dropping when I first started the car. I suspect that could be due to me blocking two of the vac lines off that go into the TIP - the TT inlet pipe doesn't even have a fitting for the one (used to be right above the turbo) and the fitting for the other one is on the wrong side and mine won't reach. So as a result both are blocked. I also suspect that maybe the 4 bar caused some weird idling until it adapted. If anyone has any ideas on the leaks or the idling I'd love to hear them. So far... I hope that everything has gone ok. I'll post up more tomorrow. I did hit 10psi tonight at one point just to make sure that I would see anything that could be potentially terrible for my commute monday.


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Hope its not coming from the top oil feed line because if it is you will have to do it all over again. Dont worry i did mine 5 times be4 getting it right. You have to make sure it is perfect with the top and bottom washers on and torqued. Pray that its not the top oil feed line and just the return line going into the oil pan. Good Luck! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

What I can say is that all of my banjos have 2 copper washers... so the only thing I'm not sure about it tq. I think it may be the top feed line, but not on the turbo I'm hoping. I'm probably going to try to find tq specs for everything. At least I can hopefully just drop the turbo off the manifold a little bit to tighten the top two banjos on there - even though the leak doesn't appear to be coming from there. Also, it took me an hour to get the banjo on the oil filter housing to even get started so it has to be straight - literally any slight angle and it wouldn't even think about going on. Crossing my fingers on this one... Oh yeah, seemed like my filter did have oil on the backside it so I'm going to tighten that more (so I'm hoping that may have been it - one of those stupid things that I may not have turned quite enough?) or that could suggest that oil is leaking down the back of it from the feed line - but I didn't see any oil on the banjo or the copper washers, so I don't really think it's coming from there.


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## Small Turbo (Dec 26, 2006)

guess who gets the ride back tommarow


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Ah... so I looked around for oil leaks and everything and it seems as though I need a new oil pan gasket. I have no clue as to how a car @ 42k can need one, but apparently I do. Anyone have any ideas on what could cause that or anything? Also anyone have a quick fix? I'm not doing one anytime soon... so I'll either have a small drip everyday or something. I'm waiting until at least my oil change.
I also blew off my stock rubber hose that connects to the upper charge pipe. I tihnk I need to replace it with a silicone one or something... I don't think it'll take the extra PSI of the turbo, even though mine is currently running stock ish. It'll spool and go up to like 12-13psi and then my car is like "That ish is bananas" and then kicks it down to like 5 PSI (but not limp mode) and then it goes back up and back down. I'm hoping that isn't a bigger issue... any ideas?
Edit: I got all of my vacuum lines run... I think that may be an issue in itself. The one vacuum line at the top of the TIP (near the MAF) is plugged into a T which also receives a vacuum line that should have been plugged in right above the turbo inlet (there is nothing in the TIP like there was in my k03s TIP to accept this). Could this be causing issues?


_Modified by 04VDubGLI at 3:54 AM 1-7-2007_


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## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (bmxp)*

Set up a time to dyno http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Ah... so I looked around for oil leaks and everything and it seems as though I need a new oil pan gasket. I have no clue as to how a car @ 42k can need one, but apparently I do. Anyone have any ideas on what could cause that or anything? Also anyone have a quick fix? I'm not doing one anytime soon... so I'll either have a small drip everyday or something. I'm waiting until at least my oil change.
I also blew off my stock rubber hose that connects to the upper charge pipe. I tihnk I need to replace it with a silicone one or something... I don't think it'll take the extra PSI of the turbo, even though mine is currently running stock ish. It'll spool and go up to like 12-13psi and then my car is like "That ish is bananas" and then kicks it down to like 5 PSI (but not limp mode) and then it goes back up and back down. I'm hoping that isn't a bigger issue... any ideas?
Edit: I got all of my vacuum lines run... I think that may be an issue in itself. The one vacuum line at the top of the TIP (near the MAF) is plugged into a T which also receives a vacuum line that should have been plugged in right above the turbo inlet (there is nothing in the TIP like there was in my k03s TIP to accept this). Could this be causing issues?

_Modified by 04VDubGLI at 3:54 AM 1-7-2007_


The oil pan does not have a gasket! It has silicone instead of a gasket. Just take the oil pan off clean the old silicone off and put new silicone and your done. Unless its cracked!







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Do you think I could possibly put more silicone around the spot where it seems to be leaking then? Maybe some RTV or something? It's one tiny spot... but at the same time I'd like to get it fixed. I still get nervous about seeing a drop or two of oil everyday. 
Anyone have any thoughts on the vacuum lines that I ran? Or on the fluctuating boost?


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## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

i had the same exact fluctuating boost problem when i ran it on stock software for a couple of hours. It would spike at about 13-14, drop down to 7, and go back and forth till i shifted. Nothing was wrong with the car, it was just the software.


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (quiksilverGTI)*

That's a relief. Thank you for having the same problem







.
Now I just need to figure out how to fix the oil pan. I think the vac lines I T'd are ok because my idle is good now. Originally it was terrible, but it's ok now so I think that I picked two okay ones to put together.


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## Small Turbo (Dec 26, 2006)

anyone else running a mbc instead of the n75?


----------



## deme7 (Dec 20, 2006)

*Re: (Small Turbo)*

Anyone dyno yet? Geez! LOL


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## Small Turbo (Dec 26, 2006)

i dunno why u guys are pressed on a dyno, they dont dyno high numbers at all, if you wanna think the car isnt anymore faster cause the car doesnt dyno any higher then go right ahead, i know plenty of 13 sec mk4s that dont dyno more than 190 wheel.
its good enough for me and bmxp to lay it down on some sti's


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## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (Small Turbo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Small Turbo* »_i dunno why u guys are pressed on a dyno, they dont dyno high numbers at all, if you wanna think the car isnt anymore faster cause the car doesnt dyno any higher then go right ahead, i know plenty of 13 sec mk4s that dont dyno more than 190 wheel.
its good enough for me and bmxp to lay it down on some sti's










then perhaps a video of this smackdown? some sort of proof for all that is freakin holy? thats all we ask. dyno, track numbers, PM me a link to a street racing video, i don't care. just ANY proof. the only thing ive seen is slogti's 102.xx trap speed; which is not terrible; in fact its pretty good if the car was close to full weight. (though nothing like 105-110 on some GT28R setups) its also the only real proof i've ever seen out of anybody running this turbo.

btw, ive seen many stock STIs trap 95-98 mph. ive taken a couple from a roll on my k03s. woohoo!


_Modified by GiacGtiAgain at 5:48 PM 1-8-2007_


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (GiacGtiAgain)*

102 on 93oct with slicks. Maybe/possibly would have trapped 106 on streets







And who knows with 100oct and streets. I shouldn't have sold it untill I laid down some numbers that got respect


----------



## UntouchableGTI (Apr 30, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_102 on 93oct with slicks. Maybe/possibly would have trapped 106 on streets







And who knows with 100oct and streets. I shouldn't have sold it untill I laid down some numbers that got respect









u will with the new setup, ull get mass respect, well that is until i beat u


----------



## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (UntouchableGTI)*

im rooting for SloJti.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (UntouchableGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *UntouchableGTI* »_well that is until i beat u





































bring that checkbook to GLD, we'll see then










_Modified by SloJTI at 8:03 PM 1-8-2007_


----------



## UntouchableGTI (Apr 30, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_





















bring that checkbook to GLD, we'll see then









_Modified by SloJTI at 8:03 PM 1-8-2007_

nothin but http://****************.com/smile/emlove.gif u know that, but ur the one that needs to bring the check book


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (UntouchableGTI)*

Anyone with a ko4-02x need a custom charge pipe to mate with a Greddy fmic and possibly a Eurojet? Got one for sale. IM me http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (UntouchableGTI)*

Nuther337 and myself will try to get some good numbers for the ko4-20 folks on the 20th of this month. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Slojti, did you go through the traps in 3rd or 4th gear? I know with the ko3s i had to shift to 4th because it ran out of breath up top, wondering if i can run third to redline and not have that extra shift.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (quiksilverGTI)*

3rd gear http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Shift at 7K every gear.....search some archives for the fast OEM turbo cars, hold out the RPM's. It's about gearing, not about HP


----------



## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

sounds good, 7k is the plan http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Small Turbo (Dec 26, 2006)

meh, all the local around here know what i got and have seen and riden, and some even driven so i dont feel like i have anything to prove anymore. my weak spot at this point is my 02m tranny. the gearing just flat out sucks
and giacgti, if you are infact pulling from a sti on a roll with a ko3, more power to ya, i dont know how your doing it but keep on doin it. my buddys sti ran circles around me when i had just a chip and tbe


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (Small Turbo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Small Turbo* »_and giacgti, if you are infact pulling from a sti on a roll with a ko3, more power to ya, i dont know how your doing it but keep on doin it. my buddys sti ran circles around me when i had just a chip and tbe

GIAC ftw







It's all in the SW http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Small Turbo (Dec 26, 2006)

i was making 215 wheel with a chip and tbe and TIP, the sw wasnt the issue


----------



## Nitro7853 (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: (Small Turbo)*

personalized chip ? or giac ?


----------



## Small Turbo (Dec 26, 2006)

revo stage 2


----------



## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (Small Turbo)*

that 215 was short lived and probably fell correct?


----------



## Small Turbo (Dec 26, 2006)

that turbo lasted 65k till i removed it for the k0420 kit, it now lives in a 00 jetta and hes put abut another 12k on it. i have been chipped since 500 miles


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Small Turbo)*

So I finally got my audi TT blue tops yesterday morning, installed last night and I must say the differance is night and day. They smoothed everything out. Car starts right up in the mornings after long night of freezing weather. No more idle dips at stop signs or red lights. I must say i have changed my mind about knocking the REVO software, I believe it was my injectors after all. Thanks to the person who sold them to me after using them for only a couple of dyno runs. Almost new for 200! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








I am running them at 4 bar is this what REVO calls for?


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

4 bar is what i run em at, no issues...ever cept for the running rich thing which isnt bad.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (beachball6)*

BEachball, how has the diode worked out for you? Did you notice any differance with the k04-20?


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (quiksilverGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *quiksilverGTI* »_Nuther337 and myself will try to get some good numbers for the ko4-20 folks on the 20th of this month. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Slojti, did you go through the traps in 3rd or 4th gear? I know with the ko3s i had to shift to 4th because it ran out of breath up top, wondering if i can run third to redline and not have that extra shift.


well the extra hp wont make u finish in 3rd. its jus with a the 6 speed the gears run out a lil faster. I know i have a gli. to hit low 13's with the 6 speed shift 1,2 gear at 7k 3 gear @ 6200-6300 and 4th @ 7k that help me run a 13.9 with my stock turbo. but u wont finish in 3rd, no way. but 6speeds can run good times also jus takes some driven. good luck and post up when u get back from track.


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

haha how the hell did you know i have a diode. 
i didnt put it in for the revo i had an autothority chip(very mild) on my ko3 and i ran a mbc so thats why i have the diode. 
so i cant really comment sorry.


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_Anyone with a ko4-02x need a custom charge pipe to mate with a Greddy fmic and possibly a Eurojet? Got one for sale. IM me http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Do u have pics ill be joining u ko4-20 boys in april and be sure ima dyno ******* also will be running meth. Kits coming off my boys car, his girl is getten him apr stage 3. Lucky bastard i want a super baller chick hahahaha. Oh he put down 256whp and 290wtq not to long ago. Cant wait. ko4-20 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_haha how the hell did you know i have a diode. 
i didnt put it in for the revo i had an autothority chip(very mild) on my ko3 and i ran a mbc so thats why i have the diode. 
so i cant really comment sorry.


I know you had a diode cause i read it in a thread somewhere on here, just not to sure if you were using it on the k04-20. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (double0vr6)*

What software? (256 whp and 290 wtq) 
And second question... if anyone doesn't mind answering, what kinds of deals did you get on SW for your 020? I looked into GIAC (AWE)... $700 for just 93oct? RAPE?! Anyone know any place that isn't going to rape me? Or is that really what everyone is paying?


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

well its there still (the diode)
ps anyone with a aww 5 speed need revo stage 3 for ko4-20.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (beachball6)*

I have an AWW 5 speed but already have REVO!


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

looks like the k04-20 club is getting smaller?








oh well... I'm to lazy to get a bigger turbo... I'm happy for now...


----------



## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_looks like the k04-20 club is getting smaller?








oh well... I'm to lazy to get a bigger turbo... I'm happy for now...









Its hard to pay over 3k for a fully installed kit and have to question the power you put down.....


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (sh{}e)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sh{}e* »_
Its hard to pay over 3k for a fully installed kit and have to question the power you put down.....

Who would pay 3K to get this kit? Never http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif I paid a total of 1600 for mine minus SW. But even the SW was an upgrade which oly added 285 to my previous total


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Still hoping to hear some ideas on where I can get SW... I really don't want to spend $700 for just 93oct. I'd really like 100oct + a stock mode. That'd be $850. Also, anyone w/GIAC, do you have a TT MAF sensor, or stock one in a 3" housing? I definitely need some info!


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_Who would pay 3K to get this kit? Never http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif I paid a total of 1600 for mine minus SW. But even the SW was an upgrade which oly added 285 to my previous total


exactly I paid about 1700 after software


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Also, anyone w/GIAC, do you have a TT MAF sensor, or stock one in a 3" housing? I definitely need some info!

I ran both sensors in a VR6 housing (2.75" ID). I thought the SW was smoother with the stock 1.8t sensor, but the SW is written for the TT sensor


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

What is the difference between the two MAFs anyhow? Like... am I legitimately going to lose power or something if I don't get a TT sensor?


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_What is the difference between the two MAFs anyhow? Like... 

They may read g/f's a little differently. Which in turn will affect your timing


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

I would think that a stock sensor in a 3" housing would be dangerous. Couldn't you run lean or something? The sensor that is used to running in a smaller housing will be used to reading air at a more accelerated rate. in the 3" housing, the same amount of air will flow over the sensor at a slower rate, telling the car to give less fuel. Perhaps my logic is off? Perhaps the software would fix this?


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (nuther337)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nuther337* »_I would think that a stock sensor in a 3" housing would be dangerous. Couldn't you run lean or something? The sensor that is used to running in a smaller housing will be used to reading air at a more accelerated rate. in the 3" housing, the same amount of air will flow over the sensor at a slower rate, telling the car to give less fuel. 


_Quote, originally posted by *nuther337* »_Perhaps the software would fix this?









You answered your own question http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

I would have figured that the air is read at the same rate either way. It never measured the entire air flow, just a portion of it - either way I mean. I have always run a 3" CAI, so I mean I don't know how it could effect air flow any differently; if anything the air is probably flowing more correct (linearlly speaking) now that I have a 3" into another 3". I don't know if that logic makes and sense or not, but my thinking is that either way it's only reading a portion of the incoming air?


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

The MAF sensor read airflow in g/s 's. With a bigger inner diameter with the same amount of flow, your airspeed is reduced. When your airspeed is reduced (g/s 's are lower), the ecu reads lower boost and adds timing


----------



## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_

exactly I paid about 1700 after software 

Not everyone is going to have the opportunity to pay just upgrade for sw and buy a used kit...


----------



## Small Turbo (Dec 26, 2006)

i paid 2200 new installed with lifetime warranty from PI. but i am just a P I M P
that price includes my 200 SW upgrade


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Small Turbo)*

I paid 2400 from pro imports for a brand new kit and it included software and the turbo has warranty.  I had APR software so i had to get new software not an upgrade. I am happy with my kit. I have a brand new T3/t4 series turbo that my cousin gave me laying in my house but i am to cheap and lazy to go buying a manifold and all the other crap associated with installing this turbo. I will probablly install it on my next 1.8t beater when i buy one.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:54 AM 1-12-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:55 AM 1-12-2007_


----------



## Small Turbo (Dec 26, 2006)

hos gonna pay for my dyno? i am ready?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_looks like the k04-20 club is getting smaller?








oh well... I'm to lazy to get a bigger turbo... I'm happy for now...









It's not getting smaller, their are lots of people with this turbo kit that we do not know about cause they are not on the VORTEX. When i asked Pro IMports how many people have bought this kit from them i was amazed at the number DAN gave me!







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

i will pay for a dyno run


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_looks like the k04-20 club is getting smaller?










I'll be adding to the club very soon...with the help of an old GIAC boost file


----------



## Small Turbo (Dec 26, 2006)

*Re: (sh{}e)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sh{}e* »_i will pay for a dyno run









shoot me a PM asap, lets set this up!

i was at PI today getting my oil changed and a check up, Pat drove the car and said its feels terrific. however he was upset with me for removing my 3 inch TB and replacing it with stock catback and 3 inch D/P.
when sh{}e sends me a PM and will really pay for a dyno ill show u guys what it will do with my setup in daily driving mode.


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

screw DD mode, we have all seen DD numbers get some race gas from crapitol and then dyno.


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (beachball6)*

i got a dyno this sat... 
I'll be honest... I don't expect to put more than 230 down


----------



## Small Turbo (Dec 26, 2006)

on stock exhaust pat at PI guessed ,y power to be in the 240 range from the other cars hes driven, i have already put down higher than that with the 3 inch and i feel no difference with the exhaust swap


----------



## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (Small Turbo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Small Turbo* »_on stock exhaust pat at PI guessed ,y power to be in the 240 range from the other cars hes driven, i have already put down higher than that with the 3 inch and i feel no difference with the exhaust swap

How much psi do you hold between 3500-6300?


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (Small Turbo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Small Turbo* »_on stock exhaust pat at PI guessed ,y power to be in the 240 range from the other cars hes driven, i have already put down higher than that with the 3 inch and i feel no difference with the exhaust swap

are you drunk when you drive your car







. i went from a3'' dp- stock cb to all 3'' and the revs up top move ALOT quicker. im willing to bet by ~6300 you will be well under 190whp


----------



## Small Turbo (Dec 26, 2006)

well see. i feel no los in power. mbc set to 20 psi and at 7k i see no less than 17
with the 3 inch i set the mbc to 20 and it held 20 all the way to redline


----------



## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (Small Turbo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Small Turbo* »_well see. i feel no los in power. mbc set to 20 psi and at 7k i see no less than 17
with the 3 inch i set the mbc to 20 and it held 20 all the way to redline

What about without mbc? 20psi at 6300 for this turbo too much?


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (sh{}e)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sh{}e* »_
What about without mbc? 20psi at 6300 for this turbo too much? 

my 100,000mi warranty says no http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (sh{}e)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sh{}e* »_
What about without mbc? 20psi at 6300 for this turbo too much? 

Can you say blow drier? lol....ask me my opinion


----------



## Small Turbo (Dec 26, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
Can you say blow drier? lol....ask me my opinion









noone cares about your opinion















without the mbc i saw anywhere from 18-20 at redline but the reason i went to a mbc was the 28psi spikes


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (Small Turbo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Small Turbo* »_noone cares about your opinion
















Hmmm....if ET's are a show of hp, and you made 240+ whp, then how much hp did I put down? lol


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

i still count your run as a race gas\program run. time will show that. now go play with your bigger turbo tough guy


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_i still count your run as a race gas\program run. time will show that. now go play with your bigger turbo tough guy









I was on the 93 program...and I have witnesses







Put some slicks on your beast before you sell it and maybe you'll see too http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Small Turbo (Dec 26, 2006)

all of these larger turbo guys are such bullys


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (Small Turbo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Small Turbo* »_all of these larger turbo guys are such bullys









Damn those BT guys


----------



## Nitro7853 (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: (sh{}e)*

hurry up with that dyno I'm dieing here!!!!








By the way how do you guys do against stock evo's or sti's ?
another thing where can I get a kit for 2200 ? I see the kit that pro imports has is from 2700 - 3000


_Modified by Nitro7853 at 10:54 PM 1-13-2007_


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (Nitro7853)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Nitro7853* »_another thing where can I get a kit for 2200 ? I see the kit that pro imports has is from 2700 - 3000

Tell me that is the biggest BS







They think they have a straglehold on the ko4-023, so they raise the price of the turbo 300 bux














I have a local distubutor that has Borg Warner turbo as one of thier customers. I should look into this more http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Will be doing some tuning this week, and off to the track next Saturday. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Small Turbo (Dec 26, 2006)

slo, theese k04-2x series turbos are hard to get actually, but obtainable new.
as for the dyno, do not be so pressed about the dyno. they vary so much with each car being different, dont go by dynos. and yes as me and bmxp already stated we do beat STi's. i have never raced a evo so i really do not know about that but the feeling of the kit is great10-12psi on this turbo feels alsmost like a chipped k03 while 20+ psi feels like a weaker apr stage 3 kit.


----------



## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
Tell me that is the biggest BS







They think they have a straglehold on the ko4-023, so they raise the price of the turbo 300 bux














I have a local distubutor that has Borg Warner turbo as one of thier customers. I should look into this more http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


2700-3000? i know i rag on the k04 kit but now i really have a reason to. i mean why would anyone possibly get it at this point? atp gt28rs transverse hardware kit is 2400 and has had reasonable success; and lots more success then the k04-02 kit in terms of power and speed.
and if you go custom, you can easily build a kit for 2500 that will outperform the pro imports kit. at 2200 i could vaguely see why people were into it, but at 2700-3000 i can't see that anymore.


----------



## Small Turbo (Dec 26, 2006)

well obviously there not having an issue selling them, they have sold over 30+ kits that are just local (not including out of state sales) after only 1 year being out


----------



## Small Turbo (Dec 26, 2006)

i also agree though its kinda high, but PI isnt making that much money off the kit, they really dont get good deals on all these parts, not any better than you or I do


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (Small Turbo)*

Have you ever looked at the prices of each piece? If they bought everything from ECS then said it was theirs they could still turn a profit...
For instance... turbo bolts
http://pro-imports.chainreacti...3262e
$30 is ridiculous!
I paid like $11 shipped from ECS. I can't find them... but they're seriously like $3 something a piece. I looked at all of the gaskets and ECS is at least $.50 cheaper on the stupid little gaskets and their exhaust mani gasket is almost 1/2 as much. In case you wouldn't have guessed I got all of my install stuff from them








PI should be making a good bit of profit off their setup. I would be willing to bet like $500 a kit w/software and probably like $800 w/o SW. I mean, I don't really know, but seriously.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I bought the kit for OEM parts and reliability not for SPEED. If i wanted more speed and power i would just put together that 57trim T03/T04 i have sitting in my garage. But I will save that for a rainy day! When I started investing in my car i wanted to make it better using only OEM parts so that is what im sticking to. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:44 AM 1-15-2007_

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:48 AM 1-15-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:51 AM 1-15-2007_


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_What software? (256 whp and 290 wtq) 
And second question... if anyone doesn't mind answering, what kinds of deals did you get on SW for your 020? I looked into GIAC (AWE)... $700 for just 93oct? RAPE?! Anyone know any place that isn't going to rape me? Or is that really what everyone is paying? 

he has the revo software that came with the pi kit but when i get it off of him ima run GIAC.


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Still hoping to hear some ideas on where I can get SW... I really don't want to spend $700 for just 93oct. I'd really like 100oct + a stock mode. That'd be $850. Also, anyone w/GIAC, do you have a TT MAF sensor, or stock one in a 3" housing? I definitely need some info!

why dont u look into custom code.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (double0vr6)*

Once you are in that price range you can start to look at custom tunes all day long. I really would like the options of stock (good for winter driving), 93oct, and 100oct. That's the only downside to a custom tune. I really need to wait til WaterFest or something and hope to pick up a good deal


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

You get what you pay for as far as SW goes. Uni supposedly came out with sw for this setup, maybe look there. I am biased and will tell you to go with GIAC.... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Uni told me they could do a file... they wanted $700 for 93oct as well. At that point I'd go GIAC. I'm just really hoping for some sort of a deal... I'm going to shop around. There aren't any local GIAC dealers for me anyhow... so shipping it out is shipping it out. 
In the mean time I'm probably going to run a MBC and do like 11psi. Just so it stops fluctuating from 7psi to 13psi and back and forth. That makes it annoying to drive. So I'm going to figure out what I should log or something and then just get it to be flat w/boost until I can get SW figured out.


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

With the SPS3, what should the settings be for best performance on 100 octane?


----------



## Nitro7853 (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: (GiacGtiAgain)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GiacGtiAgain* »_
atp gt28rs transverse hardware kit is 2400 and has had reasonable success; and lots more success then the k04-02 kit in terms of power and speed.
.

Whats the difference between the stage 3 kit and the transverse kit?


----------



## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: (Nitro7853)*

hey guys, just wanted to see how many miles everyone has here with this turbo. I have 85k on my 02gti and I'm kinda questioning myself if i should go ahead and drop in this turbo or no..any suggestions??


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (MrcinaGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MrcinaGTI* »_hey guys, just wanted to see how many miles everyone has here with this turbo. I have 85k on my 02gti and I'm kinda questioning myself if i should go ahead and drop in this turbo or no..any suggestions??









Have you replaced the timing belt yet?


----------



## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

I was thinking, if i drop this turbo in, id replace timing belt, water pump and everything else at the same time.


----------



## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (MrcinaGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MrcinaGTI* »_I was thinking, if i drop this turbo in, id replace timing belt, water pump and everything else at the same time.










even if your not putting this turbo in, your t-belt should be done. at 85k your just wating for something bad to happen. get on that asap.


----------



## I Love Torque (Jan 17, 2007)

i installed my ko420 at 65k, i now have 73,xxx


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (I Love Torque)*


_Quote, originally posted by *I Love Torque* »_i installed my ko420 at 65k, i now have 73,xxx

Again?


----------



## I Love Torque (Jan 17, 2007)

yup


----------



## Nitro7853 (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: (I Love Torque)*

Whats the difference between the stage 3 kit and the transverse kit?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Nitro7853)*

I have 92,000 on my car and installed it at 85,000. I bought it brand new in 2001 so I have been the only owner and baby the car plus it has all been highway miles not stop and go so its in great conditions http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif










_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:01 AM 1-17-2007_


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (Nitro7853)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Nitro7853* »_ 
Whats the difference between the stage 3 kit and the transverse kit?


Transverse is for golf/jetta/beetle platform. longitudinal (did i spell that right?) is for the passat/A4 platform. there is a stage 3 kit for either.


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (nuther337)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nuther337* »_With the SPS3, what should the settings be for best performance on 100 octane?

C'mon guys, I know I'm new to the club but...


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

keep boost around 7. advance timing until you get ~8* of pull. im guessing a timing of about 7. i ran 9 on 110. get acess to a vag-com to tune it correctly.


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (beachball6)*

Thanks.


----------



## I Love Torque (Jan 17, 2007)

i keep boost at 9 and run a mbc set to whatever i want


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (I Love Torque)*


_Quote, originally posted by *I Love Torque* »_i keep boost at 9 and run a mbc set to whatever i want

good way to KILL IATs. 
so you ever gonna keep a username?


----------



## I Love Torque (Jan 17, 2007)

how do i kill iat's?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Nitro7853)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Nitro7853* »_ 
By the way how do you guys do against stock evo's or sti's ?
_Modified by Nitro7853 at 10:54 PM 1-13-2007_


If you go on the EVO forums and see their stock dyno graphs you will see that they dyno from 220-230 WHP. A k04-20 on 93oct will dyno from 240-250WHP give or take so you be the judge on how a k04-20 will do aginst a stock EVO. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (I Love Torque)*


_Quote, originally posted by *I Love Torque* »_how do i kill iat's?

nevermind


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3007025


----------



## Nitro7853 (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_

If you go on the EVO forums and see their stock dyno graphs you will see that they dyno from 220-230 WHP. A k04-20 on 93oct will dyno from 240-250WHP give or take so you be the judge on how a k04-20 will do aginst a stock EVO. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

thanks alot http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif good to hear but what kind of setup gets me those numbers could I just swap the turbo and inlet pipe with some software and call it a day? or is it the kit that brings out the HP?


----------



## I Love Torque (Jan 17, 2007)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_
nevermind


both PI and scott from revo assured me my IATs will not be affected by running a mbc(set anywhere from 20-23 with boost set at 9 with a sufficient intercooler


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (I Love Torque)*

i read set at 9 at 1st thats why i said nevermind


----------



## I Love Torque (Jan 17, 2007)

o my bad, still searchin for a rex?


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (I Love Torque)*


_Quote, originally posted by *I Love Torque* »_o my bad, still searchin for a rex?

yea leaning towards an 05 evo, they dont have blue carpet ..yuck


----------



## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_

If you go on the EVO forums and see their stock dyno graphs you will see that they dyno from 220-230 WHP. A k04-20 on 93oct will dyno from 240-250WHP give or take so you be the judge on how a k04-20 will do aginst a stock EVO. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


9 out of 10 evos interested in racing you won't be stock. and a new air freshener puts them in the 260 awhp range.
not to mention the evo IXs with MIVEC trap 103-105 bone stock. good luck though


----------



## spoolin turbo s (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (GiacGtiAgain)*

soo........................13 pages and no dyno RIGHT

tsssk tssssk tsssssk 
hell people at least show us the potentional of what you would get with this kit


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (spoolin turbo s)*


_Quote, originally posted by *spoolin turbo s* »_hell people at least show us the potentional of what you would get with this kit

There is no potential







It's actually a downgrade from stock


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (spoolin turbo s)*


_Quote, originally posted by *spoolin turbo s* »_soo........................13 pages and no dyno RIGHT

tsssk tssssk tsssssk 
hell people at least show us the potentional of what you would get with this kit

sigh let me find mine...
no dice on the graph, the person who hosted it removed it. my usb on my lap top is all screwy i will try and work something out with it.
for now here is a fun video
http://www.dropshots.com/day.p...60553


_Modified by beachball6 at 7:29 PM 1-17-2007_


----------



## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_
sigh let me find mine...
no dice on the graph, the person who hosted it removed it. my usb on my lap top is all screwy i will try and work something out with it.
for now here is a fun video
http://www.dropshots.com/day.p...60553

_Modified by beachball6 at 7:29 PM 1-17-2007_

u're killing me.. I cant play this video anywhere. Post it on youtube or something.


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

umm click the link it should play.


----------



## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_umm click the link it should play.

umm, i got it. Lol. I was in school and it couldnt play for some reason. 
Nice video thought. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Nitro7853 (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: (MrcinaGTI)*

what kind of setup gets me those numbers could I just swap the turbo and inlet pipe with some software and call it a day? or is it the kit that brings out the HP?


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (Nitro7853)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Nitro7853* »_what kind of setup gets me those numbers could I just swap the turbo and inlet pipe with some software and call it a day? or is it the kit that brings out the HP?









The parts are interdependent. You need the injectors and arguably the FPR for enough juice, you need the exhaust manifold because this turbo will not bolt to your stock manifold, you need the up-pipe because no production downpipe is gonna bolt to this turbo as it is mounted in our application, you need the MAF to support the software, etc. So yeah, you pretty much need the parts included in the kit. You can piece it together as others have, but you need pretty much all of the components.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (nuther337)*

Beachball, you want to sell me that SPS 3 you have? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

once i sell my turbo kit sure.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (beachball6)*

OK let me know! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## spoolin turbo s (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
There is no potential







It's actually a downgrade from stock









you know that not what i mean 
i would just to see a dyno of one of these kits to a typical chip intake exhaust k03 dyno
you see what i'm saying 
but damn obviously there are plenty of people that have this, considering this thread is like 13 pages long yet not 1 single independant dyno the only dyno i've seen is the on on the pro imports site

does anyone else no of a 020 dyno floating around that they could share>? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
im not trying to be a douch i just want to see what you really get for the money you spen on this kit, i can look and find tons of APR stg3 and st3+ dynoes to let me know what i would be getting if i bought that, but nothing here 
you see my point now?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

Beachball, sloJTI, and small turbo have dynos, nutter337 was suppose to dyno, and BMXP is dynoing on saturday so ask any of them for a dyno. As for my dyno im waiting for waterfest to dyno but my dyno wont count cause i'll be on water/meth.


----------



## spoolin turbo s (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

well why won't any of them post them 
are they that ashamed


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

*Re: (spoolin turbo s)*

i would also like to see a dyno....i'd be interested in seeing the powerband. Is it like the k03/k04 where you have huge tq and hp spike down low and bleed off, or does it actually keep the hp tq to the upper rpm's.....


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

Here are the Pro Import dynos of like 3 cars with different mods. I think one of them is small turbos car but not sure.
http://www.pro-imports.com/dyno.htm


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 3:53 PM 1-18-2007_


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

thats pretty impressive....anyone with a personal dyno?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (T-Boy)*

The USER DUBADDICTED has a dyno floating round the vortex somewhere. He made 250whp/303wtrq on 93oct. It's on the vortex somewhere i was just reading it not to long ago. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## spoolin turbo s (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (T-Boy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *T-Boy* »_thats pretty impressive....anyone with a personal dyno?

nah tboy 13 pages and not a single personal dyno 
what the hell is up with that


----------



## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_Beachball, sloJTI, and small turbo have dynos, nutter337 was suppose to dyno, and BMXP is dynoing on saturday so ask any of them for a dyno. As for my dyno im waiting for waterfest to dyno but my dyno wont count cause i'll be on water/meth.


THEN WHERE ARE THEY
i hate this thread. all everyone does is talk. show us SOMETHING. i said it earlier in this thread.
show us a dyno, track footage, highway pull, street pull, anything at all that doesn't depend on trusting someone's word. nobodys word in this thread is worth a damn thing to me


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Someday... when I find GIAC for a good price and a cheap dyno rate I'll do a bunch of dynoing ha ha. I actually am going to try to do a dyno w/o ABD intake mani and one w/. Then I can kill like 10004325353252352345324 birds w/one stone. Seeing as there have been infinite posts about that as well. I am going to do meth too, but not until after I get dyno'd at least once before hand. So much to do... so little money.


----------



## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: (GiacGtiAgain)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GiacGtiAgain* »_

THEN WHERE ARE THEY
i hate this thread. all everyone does is talk. show us SOMETHING. i said it earlier in this thread.
show us a dyno, track footage, highway pull, street pull, anything at all that doesn't depend on trusting someone's word. nobodys word in this thread is worth a damn thing to me









relax bro. Some people dont just get this turbo so they can show you, and like you, dynos, track times or whatever youre looking for. They get it because it reliable and OEM stuff. It better than ko3s and its not good as some BT's. Why dont u get it, dyno it, tape few highway pulls, street pull exc.


----------



## I Love Torque (Jan 17, 2007)

*Re: (GiacGtiAgain)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GiacGtiAgain* »_

THEN WHERE ARE THEY
i hate this thread. all everyone does is talk. show us SOMETHING. i said it earlier in this thread.









then dont open the link to this thread








i already said i am not posting my current dyno.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (GiacGtiAgain)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_Beachball, sloJTI, and small turbo have dynos,

I DO NOT have a dyno
















_Quote, originally posted by *GiacGtiAgain* »_

THEN WHERE ARE THEY
i hate this thread. all everyone does is talk. show us SOMETHING. i said it earlier in this thread.
show us a dyno, track footage, highway pull, street pull, anything at all that doesn't depend on trusting someone's word. nobodys word in this thread is worth a damn thing to me









I have posted my ET's...don't know what else to say


----------



## I Love Torque (Jan 17, 2007)

i am not ashamed of my dyno at all, infact i think its great, but i have nothing to prove. i dont think my kit is any better than other larger turbo kits so i do not feel like i owe anything to anyone. the only comment i have for people is i like it and ill give u a ride if u want


----------



## I Love Torque (Jan 17, 2007)

what spark plug is everyone using?


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

MY DYNO HAS BEEN POSTED BEFORE! yes i know that was in caps.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (beachball6)*

I don't have a dyno cause I work 6 days a week and by the time I come out everything is closed so I wont have time till the summer till I get some time off. And why do you guys come into this thread if you know their is no dynos? When I get a dyno i will post a thread in *BIG BOLD LETTERS TITLED: K04-20 DYNO so look out for that someday so you can all say oh i bet the dyno was a happy dyno, your running race gas, your running water/meth and blah blah blah!!!!!!!!!*


----------



## I Love Torque (Jan 17, 2007)

*Re: (I Love Torque)*


_Quote, originally posted by *I Love Torque* »_what spark plug is everyone using?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (I Love Torque)*

BKR7E but my car likes the DTC ones!


----------



## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

lol, i open the thread for info on a setup. you tell me not to click? why? im trying to see if its worth it and i dont thnik other people should be lured into this 2700 dollar waste of money.
why don't i get it? because when i ask to see a dyno at this point, its becoming almost rhetorical. i know why i havent seen any dynos, and other people who read this thread know why they don't see any dynos either; assuming they have a modest ability to interpret and infer.








and enough with oem relibality. plenty of setups using garret turbos are VERY reliable. hell, OEM reliability is almost an oxy-moron.








and yes slojti, i know all about you







and you have some decent numbers. yay 1







you did what you could to change my mind...but now even you have moved on to much bigger and much better things.


----------



## I Love Torque (Jan 17, 2007)

*Re: (GiacGtiAgain)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GiacGtiAgain* »_lol, i open the thread for info on a setup. you tell me not to click? why? im trying to see if its worth it and i dont thnik other people should be lured into this 2700 dollar waste of money.

you already admitted to everyone that you were not insterested in this kit so why are u posting so much in here? and thats YOUR opinion that its not worth the money, but others who have owned the kit say different!


_Quote, originally posted by *GiacGtiAgain* »_
why don't i get it? because when i ask to see a dyno at this point, its becoming almost rhetorical. i know why i havent seen any dynos, and other people who read this thread know why they don't see any dynos either; assuming they have a modest ability to interpret and infer.










i wont post my dyno because there are haters who will say that my dyno isnt real orits a hpayy dyno or other BS, my number are not high nor un-beleivable but like i said i have crap to prove to anyone. there are a handful of people who have seen my dyno on here, i just dont feel a need to show anyone else, only thing i will say is my lowest number dynod is still higher than the claimed 240 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif people can use common sence, to look at a chipped and bolt on TT dyno and compensate for the awd to FWD drive train loss and you can get a good idea of what this turbo will do on a vag 1.8t

_Quote, originally posted by *GiacGtiAgain* »_
and enough with oem relibality. plenty of setups using garret turbos are VERY reliable. hell, OEM reliability is almost an oxy-moron.










i totally agree. but then again this kit is only a 3 hour install, even to a newbie. and these turbos are alot more reliable at higher boost than a k03 or k04001 you have to admit

_Quote, originally posted by *GiacGtiAgain* »_
and yes slojti, i know all about you







and you have some decent numbers. yay 1







you did what you could to change my mind...but now even you have moved on to much bigger and much better things.










yes slo's numbers are great i think, i know why he wasnt happy, same reason that anyone else upgrades, for more power. i will agree my car could use more power, but i dont want it, i already spin 18s like crazy as it is with my torque curve, on a car that cant hook up, its pointless for more TQ and HP. i have friends with t3s who will say the same, i have one friend that wnated to trade his t3 kit, and another who wanted to trade his gt28r kit. i have a few friends with 50 trims, and 57 trim turbos on mk4s and there cars are no fun around town cause they take forever to spool it seems and isnt for everyone, if u want a highway beast then this turbo isnt for you. plain and simple. but if u like how the k03 is with power down low, just want more of it, then this kit is for you http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
sorry for the crappy long run off and rn on scentences and mis-spelled words but i dont give a crap. its the internet


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (GiacGtiAgain)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GiacGtiAgain* »_and yes slojti, i know all about you







and you have some decent numbers. yay 1







you did what you could to change my mind...but now even you have moved on to much bigger and much better things.









Much bigger, but no so much better, yet


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_BKR7E but my car likes the DTC ones!

I ran the bkr7e -10's gapped at .027


----------



## I Love Torque (Jan 17, 2007)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
I ran the bkr7e -10's gapped at .027

y the 10s?


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (I Love Torque)*


_Quote, originally posted by *I Love Torque* »_
y the 10s?

The only diff is the gap opening. The -11's are able to be opend to ~.050 before the electrode becomes stressed. The -10's are much tighter and only open to ~ .030 befire being stressed


----------



## I Love Torque (Jan 17, 2007)

good info thanks


----------



## Nitro7853 (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: (I Love Torque)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif good right-up, sounds like the perfect turbo for me. It'll turn some heads and still maintain that low end torque for rides around town.







Can't wait so what are some good setups or kits? ecs? pro-imports?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (I Love Torque)*

3 hour install







If I had done this swap before I could probably do it in like 7-8, but 3 is crazy talk. ha ha sorry. I'm just bitter that it took me DAYS b/c I kept needing stupid little stuff that I couldn't find.


----------



## I Love Torque (Jan 17, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_3 hour install







If I had done this swap before I could probably do it in like 7-8, but 3 is crazy talk. ha ha sorry. I'm just bitter that it took me DAYS b/c I kept needing stupid little stuff that I couldn't find.

when i worked at PI we were doing them in 2.5-3hrs, first kit i installed was done in 3 hrs


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (I Love Torque)*

So you were only charging like $180 for the swap? I mean... Getting that oil feed line taken care of was the hardest part. Otherwise everything really wasn't that bad. The exhaust manis were both easy... the other oil/coolant lines were easy... I guess it really wasn't that bad of an install overall. Minus the feed line. I got a custom charge pipe made rather than using the PI $250 one. I wanted to run 2" charge piping the entire way rather than 2.5-2". That took me a day to get done... so I guess all and all I probably put 14 hrs into the actual swap and that was with me not knowing what to do w/the feed line - which was probably a good 6 hours between removing and feeding and getting it on and off the turbo. So... maybe I'm just bitter. I'd still say this is realistically a 7-8 hr swap. I mean... you probably could do it in like 5-6 alone, but you'll be hauling.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Anyone know about gearing for a 1.8t for drag racing in here? lol...I made a thread but it got locked


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

6 spd ftw... perfect gearing.








I think a 6 spd w/a taller final drive would be pretty good, but I don't know of anyone who has done it yet. That'll be a mod I do... when I hit the lotto. May just make a 1.8t jetta quattro that day too.


----------



## I Love Torque (Jan 17, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_So you were only charging like $180 for the swap? I mean... Getting that oil feed line taken care of was the hardest part. Otherwise everything really wasn't that bad. The exhaust manis were both easy... the other oil/coolant lines were easy... I guess it really wasn't that bad of an install overall. Minus the feed line. I got a custom charge pipe made rather than using the PI $250 one. I wanted to run 2" charge piping the entire way rather than 2.5-2". That took me a day to get done... so I guess all and all I probably put 14 hrs into the actual swap and that was with me not knowing what to do w/the feed line - which was probably a good 6 hours between removing and feeding and getting it on and off the turbo. So... maybe I'm just bitter. I'd still say this is realistically a 7-8 hr swap. I mean... you probably could do it in like 5-6 alone, but you'll be hauling.


with a lift, and ipod or case of CD's, and all the tools and stuff you need, you would be surprised how fast we did them, but we mainly charged for 4 hours but did them in 3 cause we had to make extra time incase crap happend, bolts/studs, and things of that nature


----------



## I Love Torque (Jan 17, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_6 spd ftw... perfect gearing.








I think a 6 spd w/a taller final drive would be pretty good, but I don't know of anyone who has done it yet. That'll be a mod I do... when I hit the lotto. May just make a 1.8t jetta quattro that day too.

02m gearing is fun, but def not good for 1/4 mile racing. makes for lower traps, i hate it cause all my buddys with 5 speeds shift alot less than i do when drag racing.


----------



## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_Anyone know about gearing for a 1.8t for drag racing in here? lol...I made a thread but it got locked


in most apps, 5 speed is better. fewer shifts and longer gears are better assuming you have the power. if your going to rev to 7500 on a turbo that spools well under 5k, youll fall right back into boost on every shift with a 5 speed. the problem is, from what ive seen, is that our 6 speeds are much stronger/better trannies then our 5s.

in stock turbo apps, 5 speeds are consistantly faster. however its less of a factor with a BT upgrade because almost every BT setup will need to shift into 4th gear by the end of the track, both 5 and 6 speed. with a gt30 series turbo, youll be in 4th at the end of the run with both the 5 speed and 6 speed. this would lead me to believe that the 6 speed would be better. shorter gearing with an equal number of shifts equals a higher rate of accleration, i would assume.


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_Anyone know about gearing for a 1.8t for drag racing in here? lol...I made a thread but it got locked

it got moved. all i know is my 3.94 feels short







id like the 3.6X


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_
it got moved. all i know is my 3.94 feels short







id like the 3.6X 

I'm looking way more in depth than that....liek palying with different gearsets and r&p's from other o2j's


----------



## I Love Torque (Jan 17, 2007)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

3.94 r and p is great for drag
if i were u slow, i would do a 2l 02j. my buddys chipped 1.8t with 2l 5 speed did a 13.6 with a chip and a 2.3 60 foot i think it was


----------



## WolfPac (Oct 5, 2001)

*Re: (I Love Torque)*

Off the subject, sort of. But, when doing this swap did any of you use a VR6 airbox and if so did it have a velocity stack like the 1.8t airbox's top half?


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (WolfPac)*

yes, and i dont know.
oh wierd i have a vr6 box for sale....


----------



## spoolin turbo s (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (I Love Torque)*

i love torqe why won't you post your dyno?


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (I Love Torque)*


_Quote, originally posted by *I Love Torque* »_3.94 r and p is great for drag
if i were u slow, i would do a 2l 02j. my buddys chipped 1.8t with 2l 5 speed did a 13.6 with a chip and a 2.3 60 foot i think it was


2l as in the 2.0 like a 95 or a newer 2000 up model. And im sure this wont bolt to a 6speed motor huh.


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
I'm looking way more in depth than that....liek palying with different gearsets and r&p's from other o2j's

yur car is a 5 speed rite jus maken sure.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (double0vr6)*

I was reading some past threads on this turbo and i wanted to know why some say running REVO BT SW instead of the k04-20 specific software is better and produces better numbers? Dubaddicted used REVO BT software on his k04-20 and produced 250whp and 303wtrq on 93. This was said by RICHARDHEAD who worked at PRO IMPORTS!


----------



## I Love Torque (Jan 17, 2007)

*Re: (double0vr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *double0vr6* »_

2l as in the 2.0 like a 95 or a newer 2000 up model. And im sure this wont bolt to a 6speed motor huh.

yes a mk4 2.0 o2j will bolt to any 4cyl.


----------



## I Love Torque (Jan 17, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_I was reading some past threads on this turbo and i wanted to know why some say running REVO BT SW instead of the k04-20 specific software is better and produces better numbers? Dubaddicted used REVO BT software on his k04-20 and produced 250whp and 303wtrq on 93. This was said by RICHARDHEAD who worked at PRO IMPORTS!

my old name is richard head , that was me. PM me and ill tell u all about it


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (double0vr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *double0vr6* »_
yur car is a 5 speed rite jus maken sure.

yes


----------



## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_I was reading some past threads on this turbo and i wanted to know why some say running REVO BT SW instead of the k04-20 specific software is better and produces better numbers? Dubaddicted used REVO BT software on his k04-20 and produced 250whp and 303wtrq on 93. This was said by RICHARDHEAD who worked at PRO IMPORTS!

Yea I remember that discussion about using Revo BT on the k04-20 but its not like that sw is that magical. We know the limits of the k04-2x.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

So... what SW ftw?
I almost started a poll for this... but figured I would lose at responses.
Revo BT
Revo k04-02x
GIAC k04-02x
Other?


----------



## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

^ i heard GIAC is the best for this setup.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (MrcinaGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MrcinaGTI* »_^ i heard GIAC is the best for this setup. 

GIAC ftw no doubt...look at the ET's. And yes, ET's prove power. Not to mention, how many times did you hear me complain about how my setup was running


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

How would the REVO GT28*R* file work on this set up considering that on the GARRETT website the GT28*R* is rated at 280whp? DOes GIAC make a file for smaller GARRETT TURBOS like the *28R*? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/...t.htm http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 10:18 PM 1-19-2007_


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

mr. I get banned every other month... aka richard head... aka small turbo... aka... well who knows what's next..








says that it could work with some tweaking..


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (bmxp)*

I think it could work too with some water/meth added. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (bmxp)*

How does one go about getting banned that often?


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_How does one go about getting banned that often?

Talk s(hit to mods. Or make fun of people....in a demeaning way. Try it, at least you can change your sn to something current...lol


----------



## I Love Torque (Jan 17, 2007)

I AM WASTED









o0n that note, i am going to be a nicer person, no more banning, i am tired of it all, 13 names is to much....
for anyone wondering i ran the ko420 sw, switched to 28r sw, and i am on current testing of the new trial k0420 sw that is supposed to be getting a new update soon


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (I Love Torque)*

And how do we REVO K04-20 owners get this SW? I bought my kit from PI, do I just send my ECU to them and they will upgrade? or what? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (I Love Torque)*

Was the 28r SW better than the 020 SW?


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_And how do we REVO K04-20 owners get this SW? I bought my kit from PI, do I just send my ECU to them and they will upgrade? or what? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Personally dude, I wouldn't waste you time. In all seriousness, there is only so much this turbo can do, and if can't be done with the software written specifically for it, you can't expect much more with 28RS software. Now, the reasons it can't be done can't be done on specific software can differ, from simply a bad install to hardware parts. But rarely is it ever the software. My suggestion is, if you not happy, take your time and go thru the car again and again. Replace any bad sensors, hell, replace them all anyway. Once you've got it running right, stick with it. Remember, we don't use OEM style fastners and such, so they can become loose. go thru the car once a month or so to make sure everything is nice and tight.
Just this mans .02 tho


----------



## I Love Torque (Jan 17, 2007)

^^^ i agree with dave, however i did notice a smoother idle with the 28r sw and smoother in boost. and PI will not give it to you, i would mess around with it until you need it, it doesnt sound like anyone needs it, i know i didnt. as of now i am on there newer 20 file awaiting the final revision


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (I Love Torque)*

Hungover??? lol Hair of the Dog bro...get right back on that train


----------



## I Love Torque (Jan 17, 2007)

hhahaah yes, apparently i did some stuff last night i shouldnt have hahahahahaha
now i gotta get ready to go boarding in a few hours. i feel like a teenager all over again


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

My car runs fine I dont have any problems at all. Everything works great and the performance is where I want it. I'm just seeing why RICHARD HEAD was suggesting the 28r file in his earlier k04-20 threads. My problem was my injectors and i solved that with the blue tops. I get smooth idle, no idle dips, holds boost very well. My boost Spikes @ 20 and holds 18 straight through. Oil pressure is good, I don't lose any oil. Can't really ask for anything more. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

Is anyone running this kit with a BOV? I know its all oem parts so the DV should do, but i hear some people saying that using a BOV maybe better with holding the extra boost.
Thanks


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_Is anyone running this kit with a BOV? I know its all oem parts so the DV should do, but i hear some people saying that using a BOV maybe better with holding the extra boost.
Thanks

A DV will hold the boost this turbo makes just fine. I ran an Evo DV and it worked great http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_Is anyone running this kit with a BOV? I know its all oem parts so the DV should do, but i hear some people saying that using a BOV maybe better with holding the extra boost.
Thanks

Ran a HKS for a little while... now I'm back on my hyper-boost HXcompact.
Honestly I can't tell a difference...
Forgot mention that I have a DV relocation so I dunno if that matters


_Modified by bmxp at 12:26 PM 1-20-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (bmxp)*

I have some parts for my soon to be relocated DV coming. What did you use to tie the DV back to the TIP? I can't figure out what type of tubing to use...
Also... I feel like if you're on that end of the stuff anyhow that you could probably run a BOV w/less issue. Also, what did you tap your vac off of? Ha ha I know there is a DIY, but I figured I'd ask while I was here.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

So who's got a ko4-020, not -023? I have a question for you


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

I run a Baileys DV and I have a K04-20 not a 23. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_I run a Baileys DV and I have a K04-20 not a 23. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

IM sent http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Alright guys, I really suck at driving. But here are my track results. best run out of 4 runs. 14.325 @ 103 2.67 60 ft. Much room for improvement for myself. The car should be high 13's on street tires. Also didn't have time for tuning.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

022.


----------



## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (nuther337)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nuther337* »_Alright guys, I really suck at driving. But here are my track results. best run out of 4 runs. 14.325 @ 103 2.67 60 ft. Much room for improvement for myself. The car should be high 13's on street tires. Also didn't have time for tuning.


slip? race weight? decent trap. i <3 traps.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (GiacGtiAgain)*

Are you on GIAC K04-20 SW? When your tuning is right you will improve your times and performance. How does it feel? Are you happy with your install?


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (GiacGtiAgain)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nuther337* »_ 14.325 @ 103 2.67 60 ft.

Definitly room for improvement. The traps are even a little low for street tires. You should check your timing with Vag. If there is no timing pull, add some. If there is more than 5* pull, put some race gas in that bit(h http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Quote, originally posted by *GiacGtiAgain* »_i <3 traps.

This is the most true statement made on Vortex today


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_i got a dyno this sat... 
I'll be honest... I don't expect to put more than 230 down


Where is that dyno? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_Where is that dyno? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

x2


----------



## Internet_Tough_Guy (Jan 21, 2007)

i run the 20
and i am richard head also, just refer me as J, its mkaes it easier http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (Internet_Tough_Guy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Internet_Tough_Guy* »_i run the 20
and i am richard head also, just refer me as J, its mkaes it easier http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Again wtf???


----------



## Internet_Tough_Guy (Jan 21, 2007)

dont ask, what did you want to know for the 20?


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (Internet_Tough_Guy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Internet_Tough_Guy* »_dont ask, what did you want to know for the 20?

How the turbo outlet to the charge pipe was angled. My -023 is angled towards the firewall about 20* give or take


----------



## Internet_Tough_Guy (Jan 21, 2007)

mine as well, that charge side outlet never changed with any of them


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (Internet_Tough_Guy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Internet_Tough_Guy* »_ mine as well, that charge side outlet never changed with any of them

Thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif So my custom charge pipe will work with any -02x series turbo and meet with a Greddy fmic


----------



## Internet_Tough_Guy (Jan 21, 2007)

yes it will


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (Internet_Tough_Guy)*

J, have you seen a Eurojet fmic before? How does the piping route? Is there a coupler behind the radiator, like the Greddy?


----------



## Internet_Tough_Guy (Jan 21, 2007)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

its farther down than the greddy. what are ya trying to do?


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (Internet_Tough_Guy)*

Sell my custom charge pipes to one of the -02x guys, any of them...lol I have no use for it


















_Modified by SloJTI at 12:52 AM 1-21-2007_


----------



## Internet_Tough_Guy (Jan 21, 2007)

ahh ok, should work great for any of the k0402x guys


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (Internet_Tough_Guy)*

Well I bogged on the 14.325 run and then got antzy and gave it too much gas and spun through 1st and in to 2nd. I just can not launch. I experimented with letting the clutch out slow, but think I did it too slow, and still got a terrrible 60 ft. time of 2.7. Maybe I'll go back to the track soon for some more practice. If I can break in to 13's I'll be happy.


----------



## Nitro7853 (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: (nuther337)*

why don't you hit up a pro driving school ? We've got one not too far from here not too pricey but they'll teach ya the right way to drift and powershift http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Think I'll be hitting that up this summer just to get drifting down to an art







but hey powershifting takes perfect timing and experience, just glad my first car was standard


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (Nitro7853)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Nitro7853* »_why don't you hit up a pro driving school ?

I don't think they will teach you how to drag race...besides, all you need is seat time to drive







It's easy http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (Nitro7853)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Nitro7853* »_why don't you hit up a pro driving school ? We've got one not too far from here not too pricey but they'll teach ya the right way to drift and powershift http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Think I'll be hitting that up this summer just to get drifting down to an art







but hey powershifting takes perfect timing and experience, just glad my first car was standard

Shifting is not my problem, I just have a hard time getting off the line. I've had 7 cars, 6 of them VW, and all standard.


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

dont worry i suck also. thats why im getting awd lol. not really though.
dont glaze your clutch in an effort to get traction, i did that really bad on my vr6 clutch. now i just kinda pop it and modulate with my R foot


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (beachball6)*

http://www.vwvortex.com/artman...shtml
So i was reading through this press release dated March 2005 by Pro Imports and noticed that they offered FREE DYNO RUNS to the first 10 customers of the K04-20. Where are these 10 dyno results? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Wtf is the thermo control system? Where can I get one?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Ask Pro Imports about that and when it will be out. All it is is heat wrap around the upper intercooler and charge pipe to keep the temps down. It sits so close to the exhaust manifold that it gets hot. They also wrap the exhaust manifold in some heat wrap also to keep temps down. I made my own ghetto heat wrap around the upper intercooler charge pipe and works well. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

My thoughts on heat wrap for a k04 setup... of course I am running the stock SMIC type piping as well...
http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku
That for the uppipe and the top of the DP. Can you wrap the exhaust mani w/that as well? B/C maybe I'll just wrap the world.
http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku
That for the charge piping. The weird thing is that it's apparently for the exhaust? It's only 6" wide though which is not even enough to cover my 2" charge piping - but I figure if I get it running on the hot side of things it'd help out a good deal. Any thoughts?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

Looks good to me. I am looking for something i can wrap my exhaust manifold in also. As for the upper intercooler pipe i used the OEM heat wrap fit perfectly and went all the way down to the lower intercooler pipe.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Your OEM goes the whole way down to the LIP? Mine only is right above the mani more or less. Plus it's not quite long enough... man. I got jipped.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

here are a few pics of my ghetto wrap! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Jim Coors (Jan 24, 2007)

i am working on a heart shield for my manifold as well right now, going real good, i may start selling them


_Modified by Jim Coors at 9:34 PM 1-23-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (Jim Coors)*

Ohh.... more info?
Edit: Ohh > eww?


_Modified by 04VDubGLI at 12:19 PM 1-24-2007_


----------



## Jim Coors (Jan 24, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

ewww?


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (Jim Coors)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jim Coors* »_ewww?

Are you f'ing kidding me? lmao


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Dude, can you stick to one user name so we can know who you are? Anyway, what are you using? I was thinking bout ceramic coating it next time i have lots of time on my hands and want to entertain myself taking the turbo off and putting it back on. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

anyone know if GIAC ko4-02x software is available for the AWD?


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_anyone know if GIAC ko4-02x software is available for the AWD?

I don't think so, so just convert your car to AWP http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## spoolin turbo s (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

how about a dyno other than the nitrous soused intercooler one on the pro import site
soo............. how about a dyno 
ya know maybe any dyno after 16 pages
this is absolutely ridiculous 
if i had a gt28rs and started a thread i would have a dyno
if i had a .48 50 trim as i do i would start the thread with a dyno
but you guys are not right


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
I don't think so, so just convert your car to AWP http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOoooooooooooooo

Does this mean i have to go Revo instead?


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (spoolin turbo s)*


_Quote, originally posted by *spoolin turbo s* »_how about a dyno other than the nitrous soused intercooler one on the pro import site
soo............. how about a dyno 
ya know maybe any dyno after 16 pages
this is absolutely ridiculous 
if i had a gt28rs and started a thread i would have a dyno
if i had a .48 50 trim as i do i would start the thread with a dyno
but you guys are not right









don't you look at enough dynos at evans tuning?


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (spoolin turbo s)*


_Quote, originally posted by *spoolin turbo s* »_how about a dyno.....
.....but you guys are not right









Who needs dyno's when you can spend the same $ and get a day at the track and put down some ET's?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Once I get my boost leak fixed and someone finds me a good deal on SW I'll collect money via paypal for as many dynos as everyone would like







. I can do one w/o my ABD intake mani, w/, w/a n02 fogger w/o, whatever. In fact, if people make donations then maybe someday I can actually afford software ha ha - anyone know anyone w/Revo or GIAC who will make me a deal like WF or something then that'd be great. Stock/93/100 oct - that's all I ask ha ha


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
Who needs dyno's when you can spend the same $ and get a day at the track and put down some ET's?









cause you can only stare at a time slip for so long.


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

i have software, it has an immob defeat it should work in most engine codes. find out and get back to me via e-mail. [email protected]


----------



## spoolin turbo s (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (mirror)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mirror* »_
don't you look at enough dynos at evans tuning? 

sure do, with my planning on my hatch or Crx of the future
but there seems to be no honda guys running a TT k04-20-22-23 whatever turbo 
hmmm wonder why?
i may run a couple of them in a honda im gonna build up


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (spoolin turbo s)*


_Quote, originally posted by *spoolin turbo s* »_but there seems to be no honda guys running a TT k04-20-22-23 whatever turbo 
hmmm wonder why?

Then why even bother in this thread







Go waste your time somewhere else unless you have something to contribute


----------



## spoolin turbo s (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

im just waiting on a dyno so i may consider this turbo for my granfathers turbo s beetle but, obviously it must not be too great since there is no dyno after 16 pages


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (spoolin turbo s)*


_Quote, originally posted by *spoolin turbo s* »_im just waiting on a dyno so i may consider this turbo for my granfathers turbo s beetle but, obviously it must not be too great since there is no dyno after 16 pages









no dyno needed man. look at the traps. 235-245whp tops.


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (mirror)*

and if you truly wanted to see a dyno, you would search for results from the car of origin that the turbo came from.







i'm sure you'll find what you're looking for there.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (mirror)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mirror* »_
no dyno needed man. look at the traps. 235-245whp tops. 

Bingo...and if it's for your g-pa, I doubt he cares about 10whp








BTW: what kind of guy drives a Beetle S?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Most of these guys here have K04-20 turbos on their cars. Have you heard any of them saying oh this turbo sucks, this turbo is no good, i should have stayed with my k03s? NO? Even SLOJTI who has opted to go with a bigger turbo has not bashed it, so if these guys are happy with their set ups why do they need to prove anything to people who have no experiance with this turbo or have never been in a ko4-20 GTI or AUDI TT? I'm sure there are plenty of dynos on the audi forums. I mean if you guys really want a dyno that bad from one of us my paypal account is open to contributors. I'll dyno with/without USMIC, with/without WMI, with/without race gas. However you guys want it i will do all i need is the dyno money. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Here are 2 videos of a hot hatches doing a 7.70 and 7.73 quarter mile passes. I thought i would bring some entertainment to the thread. So you guys could see what fast is! Listen to that turbo spin.
http://68.178.140.70/videos/06-04-26-010.wmv
http://68.178.140.70/videos/06-04-26-012.wmv
_Modified by 01gtiaww at 7:10 PM 1-25-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 7:11 PM 1-25-2007_


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

bump for a weak turbo


----------



## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_bump for a weak turbo

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (GiacGtiAgain)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GiacGtiAgain* »_
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Mine still is leaking boost... I really wish I could get parts to fit properly and NOT pop off when I boost.
Hopefully I'll get my car to stop popping things off so I can get myself some SW and make hp.


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Hey Slo, what size slicks did you use for that 110 trap?


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (nuther337)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nuther337* »_Hey Slo, what size slicks did you use for that 110 trap?

whoa...







I never had a 110mph trap speed...lol...
The slicks I ran were 24.5x8.5x15 M&H's http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Mine still is leaking boost... I really wish I could get parts to fit properly and NOT pop off when I boost.
Hopefully I'll get my car to stop popping things off so I can get myself some SW and make hp.

i had the same problem when i installed mine, the connector kept popping off the turbo(eurojet), now its all "ghettotized" with one silicone connector inside another and two t-bolt clamps holding it in place. hasn't leaked since http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (quiksilverGTI)*

I went with a 2" hump hose from ATP. It was a bit of a stretch to get on the turbo side but is exactly what I needed for that odd angle. Good luck.


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (nuther337)*

Do you guys think the 22* coupler turbohoses sells would work for the odd angle? thanks


----------



## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*

i ended up using a 45 degree piece of silicone, but I imagine a 22 degree one would work better. I'll look into getting one to replace my current solution so it looks cleaner.


----------



## [email protected] (Dec 29, 2003)

*Re: (quiksilverGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *quiksilverGTI* »_
i had the same problem when i installed mine, the connector kept popping off the turbo(eurojet), now its all "ghettotized" with one silicone connector inside another and two t-bolt clamps holding it in place. hasn't leaked since http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Give us a call, we have the proper 1 7/8" reducer, and smaller T bolt clamps to solve this problem. As well as MAP gaskets, and even a few 90 degree 1 7/8" to 2" reducers from remant boost kits for those of you looking. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

is there a samco TIP available for the ko420? what are you guys running?


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_is there a samco TIP available for the ko420? what are you guys running?

Yeah, Samco is avail, it's just the TT225 TIP......


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

Nice, how much does that ususally run for?


----------



## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

i got mine for like $170 a while back, i think they are still around that price. from what i have seen they run like 15-20 dollars cheaper than the mk4 ones. I did see a few on the tt classifieds when i was searching, so its worth a look


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (quiksilverGTI)*

There is a place that makes an aluminum TIP for the 225... I can't find it for my life now. Anyone know the address? It's really nice. There was someone selling a custom one on here a long time ago, but there is a place that actually produces them... someone should find them b/c I can't anymore. And it was only like $250


----------



## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_There is a place that makes an aluminum TIP for the 225... I can't find it for my life now. Anyone know the address? It's really nice. There was someone selling a custom one on here a long time ago, but there is a place that actually produces them... someone should find them b/c I can't anymore. And it was only like $250
 ABD makes it bro.


----------



## Fastest ET (Jan 26, 2007)

turbohoses.com makes it, personally the samco forge unit is fine....


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

K good, i was looking at the stock tip the other day and it looks kinda restrictive, anyone notice a difference when you put it on? i noticed a small difference when i put the ABD tip on my little ko3 (non sport)








im sure a Samco would help out a lot


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (theswoleguy)*

I couldn't find it... unfortunately. I searched on ABD but I couldn't find anything for a TT inlet. I'm going to go look again though.
Checked again... maybe I just can't find it. If anyone can find it and get me a link I'd appreciate it.


_Modified by 04VDubGLI at 1:00 PM 2-2-2007_


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

*Here is an informative automotive engineering article on the K04-20 turbo sytem. All those who want to know the K04-20 turbo should read it and look at the pretty graphs and pictures!







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif * http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I did!















http://www.sae.org/automag/new...i.htm


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Hopefully within the next week or so i'll have this setup installed http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif going to run it on my GIAC boost file for now to see how it runs, then may change to Revo depending if it can be tweaked with lemmiwinks or not


----------



## Fastest ET (Jan 26, 2007)

all sw ca be tweaked with lemmin winks


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

even tho its a solder chip? i have the old school AWD engine code, so im $hyt out of luck when it comes to software
But this file was made to run on a ko4-01, so im sure it would work good with the ko4-20


----------



## Fastest ET (Jan 26, 2007)

apr k04 sw isnt mean far larger injector and maf though, so therefore it wont work good with this turbo.
also i dunno if lemminwinks works on the awd or the cl code ecu's if it works at all


----------



## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: (Fastest ET)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Fastest ET* »_apr k04 sw isnt mean far larger injector and maf though, so therefore it wont work good with this turbo.
also i dunno if lemminwinks works on the awd or the cl code ecu's if it works at all
 lol neither was GT-ERs gt35r tuned giac file or his t3 s60 or his friends 2871R TT or any of his cars that he tuned off GIAC/APR stock software with lemmiwinks. APRs software can be adjusted just like any others with LW. Go search for GT-ER and find his LW write up. Itll help you out bro.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (theswoleguy)*

I still haven't found the aluminum type TIP. If anyone could provide a link I'd appreciate it.


----------



## Fastest ET (Jan 26, 2007)

*Re: (theswoleguy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *theswoleguy* »_ lol neither was GT-ERs gt35r tuned giac file or his t3 s60 or his friends 2871R TT or any of his cars that he tuned off GIAC/APR stock software with lemmiwinks. APRs software can be adjusted just like any others with LW. Go search for GT-ER and find his LW write up. Itll help you out bro.

1. not everyone can understand and tune like he can
2. GT doesnt have a cl ecu or a awd code, lemminwinks doesnt work on the awd code or cl ecu from what i am told by revo
3. trust me i am not new around these parts http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Fastest ET (Jan 26, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_I still haven't found the aluminum type TIP. If anyone could provide a link I'd appreciate it. 

turbohoses.com sells them
however they are made with the ko3 inlet in mind not the k0420 or tt modles


----------



## deme7 (Dec 20, 2006)

*Re: (Fastest ET)*

GTer just took -3.5 degrees of timing out and -10 on primary fuel.. for his tuning...

Go read his first thread about his 60trim


----------



## Fastest ET (Jan 26, 2007)

well then run ko4 sw from apr


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (Fastest ET)*

I did check that one out. It's not the one I've seen before though. Thanks though... That one was ungodly expensive too.
The one I've seen is like two alum pieces w/a coupler between them. I give up maybe... stock TT TIP ftw?


----------



## Nitro7853 (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

let me know when your around buffalo id love to check out your ko4 setup are you runnning apr or what ?


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

There was someone running ATP's stg.2 kit with the chip that i have, with great results, i think it was something like 260hp and 290trq.
the chip is GIAC clgl12 boost file, only made for the AWD code, so since i already have it, i might as well see how it works, aslong as im getting enough fuel i think i should be good.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

It should work just tweak it! Some people have better results with tweaked software than with the proper software. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Nitro7853)*

Im in the catskills area of upstate NY. I think its a bit far from BUFFALO!


----------



## SMP4683 (Feb 6, 2007)

whos running this with a overboost kit? if you are could you please send me a PM, i have some questions.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (SMP4683)*

I'm running this with an overboost kit but i run it with it closed all the way!


----------



## SMP4683 (Feb 6, 2007)

what do ya mean closed?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (SMP4683)*

I mean i have it closed with no threads showing meaning n75 is doing the work.


----------



## SMP4683 (Feb 6, 2007)

so then the OB valve isnt controlling anything right now then? whats boost like and what sps setting?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (SMP4683)*

Well its technically off but i dont have any surging or high spikes so it must be doing something cause if i uninstall it i get a high spike.


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

I only spike around 21 psi and hold 19.5~20 psi to redline. stock N75.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (nuther337)*

Pro IMports says the REVO SW is programed to run at 18lb. I spike at 20 and hold 18 to redline with the J valve and OB kit. Is the only way of upping boost through sps? What are the recommended boost and timming setting to be at without doing damage cause of the massive torque spikes?


----------



## zemun2 (Sep 2, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_Pro IMports says the REVO SW is programed to run at 18lb. I spike at 20 and hold 18 to redline with the J valve and OB kit. Is the only way of upping boost through sps? What are the recommended boost and timming setting to be at without doing damage cause of the massive torque spikes?

When ever you change setting make sure to log, and yes SPS3 is only way to increase the boost and retain N75.


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

chalk up another Ko4-023 to the club, the turbo will be in next Saturday, stay tuned for the results


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SMP4683 (Feb 6, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_Pro IMports says the REVO SW is programed to run at 18lb. I spike at 20 and hold 18 to redline with the J valve and OB kit. Is the only way of upping boost through sps? What are the recommended boost and timming setting to be at without doing damage cause of the massive torque spikes?

if your ob mode only allows 18 or so lbs, the sps wont up it any


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (SMP4683)*

I am at boost setting 7. So what can i do to up boost then if you say SPS3 does not up boost? What is SPS3 for then?


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 6:05 PM 2-8-2007_


----------



## SMP4683 (Feb 6, 2007)

with the mbc in there your boost isnt gonnqa go anyhigher than what that is set too, is mechanical device, the ecu isnt controlling that and the sps truely doesnt UP the boost but changes the map to either hold peak boost longer/higher or lower it.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

If anyone has SW for an AWP for sale... that'd be sensational. In fact, if someone was super awesome they'd sell me a GIAC ECU w/everything I need on it. I think I'm going to look for someone who is a GIAC owner and have them do the upgrade cost for me or something maybe...
I need SW!!!


----------



## SMP4683 (Feb 6, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_If anyone has SW for an AWP for sale... that'd be sensational. In fact, if someone was super awesome they'd sell me a GIAC ECU w/everything I need on it. I think I'm going to look for someone who is a GIAC owner and have them do the upgrade cost for me or something maybe...
I need SW!!!

already tried. i was going to buy a giac x+ ecu and take it to my local giac dealer, however they wanted 700 still since the orginal giac flash wasnt dont to the car on the new owber, stupid yes i know, revo does however do the opp. u can buy a ravo ecu and pay 200 for the upgrade unless it has BT sw on it then its should be only a 30 or 4 dollar charge to swap
last i checked there was a revo bt ecu in the clasidfieds under untouchable gti http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

98% sure im going back to the track tomorrow as long as it doesnt rain. 13.8 hear i come cuz im shifting like a man on crack now








PS i need ko3s oill return line and coolant lines


----------



## SMP4683 (Feb 6, 2007)

still getting rid of the kit beach?


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (SMP4683)*

yes sir, its sold im just waiting on a damn oil return line so i can send the man his kit. (yes he is aware of the mishap of me not getting the lines and was very understanding)


----------



## SMP4683 (Feb 6, 2007)

sux to see u go man, you goin to the suby?


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

yea, i just drove my buddies 3''tb 07 wrx and just the tb woke that car up, i dorve it 100% stock before. yea its not my car but off the line it rocks. a STI should be about my car. i have rode in one just not driven one yet


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (beachball6)*

Ok, For those who are curious about how the K04-2X kit does against an STI. I ran an 05 STI twice this wee morning. The first was from third gear and second run was from second gear. I pulled about 1 to 1 1/2 car lengths on him before we stopped on the first run. The second run was from second and it went quite a bit further. I probably pulled anywhere from 1 to 2 car lengths on him.( I was trying to keep my eyes on the road and not my side-view) At about 145 MPH he began to catch me. Overall, I was pleased with the results. This was of course on a closed course (disclaimer).
Yes the STI is stock.


----------



## SMP4683 (Feb 6, 2007)

me and bmx already disclosed this 3 pages ago


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_98% sure im going back to the track tomorrow as long as it doesnt rain. 13.8 hear i come cuz im shifting like a man on crack now








PS i need ko3s oill return line and coolant lines

shift at 7000, higher if the sw allows http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif And if your spinning off the line, don't shift into 2nd untill the MPH is up there...meaning let if bounce off the rev limiter untill it feels like your going 40MPH.







Crazy but it works


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (SMP4683)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SMP4683* »_







me and bmx already disclosed this 3 pages ago

Thought I'd share my experience since there was some interest in this.








I don't think I read any experiences, just hypotheticals.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (SMP4683)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SMP4683* »_with the mbc in there your boost isnt gonnqa go anyhigher than what that is set too, is mechanical device, the ecu isnt controlling that and the sps truely doesnt UP the boost but changes the map to either hold peak boost longer/higher or lower it. 

I know my max boost is controlled by the chip/computer. The Boostvalve can't raise boost above what the chip is telling the N75 to allow. If I need more boost how can I go about raising the boost? When I called Pro Imports and spoke to DAN he told me they set the program to max boost 18lb and my car is right on that. I'm just curious are you guys holding more than 18lbs of boost? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Soo_Euroo (Feb 5, 2007)

*Re: The Official Ko4-02x thread (MrcinaGTI)*

not enough power??? from a K04... how much power do you really want on FWD as a daily???


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: The Official Ko4-02x thread (Soo_Euroo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Soo_Euroo* »_not enough power??? from a K04... how much power do you really want on FWD as a daily???









He was being sarcastic!


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (SMP4683)*

I would have the person selling the ECU get the upgrade for me before I bought the ECU. The only issue is that I hear a lot about people saying they don't swap in/out very easily.
I'll look for the Revo BT one. Isn't all stage 3 Revo stuff about equal anyhow? I'm completely unfamiliar w/Revo... Other than I would need an SPS to be happy.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

You can run regular revo BT SW. You can use the GT28R file and tweak it to your likings.


----------



## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (nuther337)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nuther337* »_Ok, For those who are curious about how the K04-2X kit does against an STI. I ran an 05 STI twice this wee morning. The first was from third gear and second run was from second gear. I pulled about 1 to 1 1/2 car lengths on him before we stopped on the first run. The second run was from second and it went quite a bit further. I probably pulled anywhere from 1 to 2 car lengths on him.( I was trying to keep my eyes on the road and not my side-view) At about 145 MPH he began to catch me. Overall, I was pleased with the results. This was of course on a closed course (disclaimer).
Yes the STI is stock.









I hear that the k04-2x guys beating stg2 stis (turboback+ecu remap). You're barely beating a stock sti


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (sh{}e)*

On 93 oct. daily driving mode. Sorry, wish I could tell you I smoked his butt.








I will ask my friend who was in the STI exactly how much I pulled on him, I'll get back to you, and hopefully have something great to say.
I won't make any excuses, but I won't lie to you either.


----------



## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (nuther337)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nuther337* »_On 93 oct. daily driving mode. Sorry, wish I could tell you I smoked his butt.








I will ask my friend who was in the STI exactly how much I pulled on him, I'll get back to you, and hopefully have something great to say.
I won't make any excuses, but I won't lie to you either.









No problem, I wasn't ditching you at all but was just wondering. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (sh{}e)*

OK, word from the STI says I had him by 3-4 car lengths on the first run and 1.5-2 car lengths on the second run which started low in 2nd (my bad).


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

blha blah sti this sti that. 
two different cars, drive one you will see. personally im getting one knowing it will be a little slower or the same on the open road. 
awd owns on auto-x and 1/4miles. the only safe racing areas. go auto-x your 300whp gti then get in a stock sti. tell me if its the same


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (beachball6)*

I had a 1991 eagle talon tsi awd. I wish i still had it. Nothing compares to an ALL wheel drive turboed car http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_98% sure im going back to the track tomorrow as long as it doesnt rain. 13.8 hear i come cuz im shifting like a man on crack now








PS i need ko3s oill return line and coolant lines

Dont break my parts


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Nothing compares to AWD launches is really the truth. Driving them IMHO isn't that much better (unless maybe it's really rainy or snowy)... but the launch is just retarded. My friend has a 91 Talon TSi he is building. He just finished up seam welding it and put a full cage in it. I'm sure it'll be ridiculous once it's done. He is the only amazing launch I've ever had - he had the stock 14b too when he did it. I never got a launch w/the 16g. I think he is rebuilding it and putting a 35r on it. Or maybe a 4088. I don't remember now.


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_
Dont break my parts
















im still searching my ass off for a stupid return line.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (beachball6)*

I have a stock TT return line... you may be able to get it to work...?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_







im still searching my ass off for a stupid return line. 


Beach, I have a brand new oil return line that came with the pro imports kit! All it needs is the top and bottom fittings. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

i need the stock ko3s line


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

*BEach, is this the line you are looking for?*


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

Have a used stock one too, if you want off my AWW GTi.









_Modified by 01gtiaww at 6:43 PM 2-9-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 6:55 PM 2-9-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Any thoughts on this anyone? I could really use some help...
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3022869
I really wanted GIAC, but I've pretty much given up @ this point. This is what someone had referred me to earlier. My questions only are the following...
-Will it work w/my car? I have an RN ECU and obviously a 6spd. I also don't know what I should be worrying about in terms of ESP and such...
-Will it work well w/the k04-02x? 
-What options do I have in terms of a "stock"/93/100oct program w/this setup? Is it all just SPS3 type stuff? Sorry, noob w/the Revo stuff.
Anyhow, I put these here and also asked untouchable. So, if anyone could offer me feedback I'd really appreciate it. Oh yeah... I'm planning to run TT injectors w/a 4bar - which may or may not help?


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

04VDubGLI
IM sent, both on Vortex and AIM http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_04VDubGLI
IM sent, both on Vortex and AIM http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

i have a feeling someone just got pwned.


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

i just set a tex record on the ko4-20 i think [email protected]!!! i dont think anyone has touched 105


----------



## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_i just set a tex record on the ko4-20 i think [email protected]!!! i dont think anyone has touched 105


really? if so then http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif because i <3 traps.
what was the weight/octane/boost?


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

weight is prob around 2900 no rear seats\no spare\32lb rear wheels\dr on 15'' steel in the front\ corabua(sp) seats
110oct boost sps of 8 and timing sps 9
yes for real i ran 105 prob 3-4 times and 104 a few also. im sure the 3.94 and 15'' wheels helped
street settings a ran 14.3 @99


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (GiacGtiAgain)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GiacGtiAgain* »_really? if so then http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif because i <3 traps.

Traps is the only reason he set a record, if he did







I hate traps


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

if anyone starts a hater party ill put up a few slips


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (beachball6)*

Post them up...still not stage 3 traps...but....


----------



## SMP4683 (Feb 6, 2007)

congrats


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_i just set a tex record on the ko4-20 i think [email protected]!!! i dont think anyone has touched 105

well atleast we know it works








what clutch are you running?


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (loudgli)*

vr6 w g60 fw and yea it works


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_vr6 w g60 fw and yea it works









Would you have chosen anything different now that you have ran it? Mine will be mostly DD 90% of the time.


----------



## SMP4683 (Feb 6, 2007)

*Re: (beachball6)*

any other 6 speed revo cars?


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (SMP4683)*

Me


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_
Would you have chosen anything different now that you have ran it? Mine will be mostly DD 90% of the time.

for the money no. but the single mass fw does bother me at times, i just end up standing on the clutch at lights so its quite.


----------



## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_
for the money no. but the single mass fw does bother me at times, i just end up standing on the clutch at lights so its quite.

really? mine doesn't chatter, i was surprised after the install


----------



## SMP4683 (Feb 6, 2007)

nuther337, your car isnt real spikey?


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (SMP4683)*

No sir, my car does not spike very high at all. I only spike 1-1.5 psi over what I settle at. My only experience with high spiking and weird boost was when my N75 Vac-line was pinched. Boost was bouncing all over the place. I was expecting something of the sort based on experiences in here, but was pleasantly surprised with no issues with high spikes.


----------



## SMP4683 (Feb 6, 2007)

hmmmm


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (SMP4683)*

What N-75 are you running nutter? I just removed my over boost kit and just left the n-75 j valve and now when im driving and hit the gas it stays at 11 for a while and then all of a sudden it goes up to 20 then drops to 18. It's like an on and off feeling. I took it off to see how it ran but i much rather have the over boost in there and have the boost come on smoothly, spike at 20 and hold 18.


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Stock N75 for AWP. I had an ECS N75 race valve in it when I installed the kit, but also had boost creep. Stock valve works pretty well for me.


----------



## SMP4683 (Feb 6, 2007)

my F makes me creep and spike to 27+ psi, scary yea, i tried H and it sent m e into limp right away, tried c and J with the same effect, now i am running mbc mode but had the part throttle and the mbc doesnt feel like it gives the midrange and top end power of the n75, even at the same boost


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

This is probably going to be worthless to ask, but I'll try it anyhow.
Has anyone had any weird smells w/their setups? I've had mine on for probably like... 600 miles now and every once and a while I get a weird smell. I don't think I have any leaks or anything so I can't really put a finger on it. May be dumb to ask... but does this turbo make a different smell for anyone? It's so random for me anymore that I can't place it. I can tell you that the first time it smelled I did 80 for like 15 mins on the highway and then when I pulled in the garage it smelled horrible. Since then I have done 80 a few times on the highway and most times it hasn't smelled and just last night it smelled after just driving around town. Any ideas?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

The only thing my car smells like after driving hard is fuel out the exhaust outside the car. Is it a sweet coolant smell or a oil smell or a fuel smell????? In the cold weather it tends to smell like coolant.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

I can't place the smell unfortunately. I know for a fact that I have smelt it before in my life - never on my car though. I thought maybe it was coolant, but I dont seem to be missing any coolant from my res/overflow. I haven't checked my oil level in a little while... so I can check that - but I park over a piece of wood to help me catch leaks and I haven't seen anything on it.


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

If your oil-feed line is not right, you could be leaking oil on to your turbo. The smell could be burning oil.







Though I cannot smell what you are smelling. I did not notice any new smells after my install.


_Modified by nuther337 at 5:58 PM 2-19-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (nuther337)*

I think I'm going to drop the turbo down off the exhaust mani and tq both the oil and coolant feeds down a bit more. The issue is that I get the smell out of boost and in boost... like there is no particular time it does it. Like, what I mean to say is that if I'm barely driving my car around I can get it, and sometimes I drive my car a little harder (merging) and get it. If it were a feed issue I imagine it would occur more w/higher RPM/boost apps. But, either way it won't hurt to check them. I just hope I don't need to buy new turbo bolts now







If I did that I mean.


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

Finally got the car back from the shop today. And damn does this thing move. Coming from the ko3 non-sport where the turbo falls flat on its face after 5500RPM this turbo just keeps on pulling. im seeing spikes as of high as 23psi and settling down to 20psi. Its wet out and i have blad winter tires on so i couldnt feel its total potential but other than the peeling out this turbo rocks.
Running it with the GIAC clgl12 race file, 380cc injectors, VR MAF (unplugged), TT manifold, stock TT TIP, 3"DP 2.5"CB, eurojet fmic. Sometime soon i'll get on the dyno with some race gas and see what happens. The maf is unplugged cause my chip isnt meant for a 3" anyone else running no MAF?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

By the way... I haven't smelled the smell lately, but I smelt some lead solder today and it almost was remincient of that smell... if that makes any sense or not I don't know.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_Finally got the car back from the shop today. And damn does this thing move. Coming from the ko3 non-sport where the turbo falls flat on its face after 5500RPM this turbo just keeps on pulling. im seeing spikes as of high as 23psi and settling down to 20psi. Its wet out and i have blad winter tires on so i couldnt feel its total potential but other than the peeling out this turbo rocks.
Running it with the GIAC clgl12 race file, 380cc injectors, VR MAF (unplugged), TT manifold, stock TT TIP, 3"DP 2.5"CB, eurojet fmic. Sometime soon i'll get on the dyno with some race gas and see what happens. The maf is unplugged cause my chip isnt meant for a 3" anyone else running no MAF?

I have read in alot of threads on REVO BT software that most of the guys run their set ups with the MAF unplugged and it works better. I will have to try this out and see how it works. You should unplugg the battery before you unplugg the maf this way the computer has an easier time adapting to the unplugged maf.


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

late spool issue was confirmed on sunday when i unistalled, my inner manifold nuts were pretty loose. meh oh well. im officially out of the ko4-20.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (beachball6)*

Oddly enough, when I uninstalled my K03s I found that pretty much the only thing holding it in there was the bracket that attaches to the block. There was one tight turbo bolt, there were about 5 tight mani bolts, and the one coolant line felt like it was barely attached. I actually feel like right now w/my k0420 on I have the best seal I've ever had w/my car. Go figure?
Of course my car also has had door bolts come loose and other random pieces just decidely come loose. Pretty sure I should just give my entire care a once over.


----------



## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I know this a lame question to ask on these forums and im aware i might even catch some flames for it but im going to get dynod soon and i want to know what to expect so im not over or under excited. heres the mod list
PI Ko4-20 kit
Revo SW
wrapped intercooler pipes
BFSM w/ water mister
3" cat-less DP
2.5" Side exhaust (just a resonator no muffler)
PowerGasket +
Forge 007 DV
stock N75 
N249 Bypass
intake
ground wires (for fun)
dog bones, Vr clutch and g60 flywheel to help put it all down
will i be able to hit 250whp? is more power possible with this setup? I want to max this kit out. I do not daily drive this car. Methenol injection is in the works. Not sure what else will add power...perhaps bigger turbo haha.



_Modified by Fuze911 at 4:03 PM 2-21-2007_


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (Fuze911)*

will i be able to hit 250whp? is more power possible with this setup? I want to max this kit out.

With those mods im sure it can be done. Man u better make 250 cuz I will and im on ko4-001








Here my dyno from 2 days ago Im really happy with what i got take a look. The ko4-001 still has some balls.
Dyno pulls were done apr program on 93 oct







Meth kit in about 2 weeks and also a new dyno.


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

those are some nice numbers, but lets keep this to a ko4-02x thread.
so im guessing im the only one with the AWD engine code running this setup??


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

my race gas traps equate to ~260whp


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_my race gas traps equate to ~260whp

hmmm what were yur 60 foot.


----------



## Nitro7853 (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: (double0vr6)*

Yooooo what software are you running


----------



## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (Nitro7853)*

Revo SW...ill add it to the original post...BTW those are sick numbers for a k04-001!!!


----------



## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (Fuze911)*

bump....
can someone predict the out come...ive been searching like a mad man and peoples ko4-20 dynos dissapoint me....i wanted something that would yield close to 270is to the wheels but i guess i bought the wrong kit....


----------



## [email protected] (Feb 20, 2007)

someone wants to pay for a ko4-20 dyno then PM me








mysetup is running great and i am predicting around 250whp on my current tune and all.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_someone wants to pay for a ko4-20 dyno then PM me








mysetup is running great and i am predicting around 250whp on my current tune and all.

If we could figure out who you are half the time, I bet someone would pay for that dyno


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Can someone hurry up and dyno already?? I want to know about how much power I should expect from my setup judging by what anyone here dynos. Come on guys, we have to make more than some of the K04-001 dynos floating around. At least similar power with a more efficient power band.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif If i had time i would dyno myself.









93 oct.
AWW GTI
K04-20 PI KIT
REVO SW
3 inch GHL TB
TYROL SPORT USMIC
AUDI TT fuel pump
AUDI TT 380 cc injectors
4 bar FPR
BAileys DV
CARBONIO CAI
N75 J valve
snow performance water/meth
NSP power gasket plus
4.7 diode
ghetto thermal wrap
all vacuum hoses by SAMCO
overboost solution kit

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 11:27 AM 2-22-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 11:28 AM 2-22-2007_


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

A buddy of mines the only guy in orlando with the ko4-20 kit he mad 259whp and 290wtq on 93oct he moved to DC not to long ago but ima try to get a copy of his sheet.
His mods are:
ko4-20 kit revo program.
fmic
all boost hoses
n75h
3"tb no cat
power gasket
custom intake mani
pullies
clutch and lightweight flywheel
catch can
custom tip


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (double0vr6)*

Not to knock the 001, but I did realize that dyno was in 66* weather w/low humidity. You couldn't ask for much better than that to do a dyno... 
I am very much so disappointed to see that an 001 is making that power and people aren't reporting 260whp w/k04-020s. Just based on the fact that it's a larger inlet and slightly more aggressive compressor alone should make more HP than an 001.


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (double0vr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *double0vr6* »_A buddy of mines the only guy in orlando with the ko4-20 kit 

quicksilvergti is also from Orlando with a K04-20 and posts in here every now and again.


----------



## [email protected] (Feb 20, 2007)

someone paypal me 75, ill get u 3 runs with air fuels and dyno sheets and whatever u want....everyone pitch in


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (double0vr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *double0vr6* »_A buddy of mines the only guy in orlando 

Florida dyno's don't count


----------



## [email protected] (Feb 20, 2007)

yea my k03 dynod 320whp when i was in FL


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Thats it? I went down there just so I could dyno 351whp on my ko3


----------



## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

a bunch of my buddies and myself are getting dynod at the end of march i think, so ill have graphs up. I was just hoping someone had numbers i could use as reference...


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Fuze911)*

This thread must have a record for most pages and no k04-20 DYNOS.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Only 351whp on your k03s? That's weaksauce.
Seriously though, if no one beats me to it, I'm going to break 260whp w/my k04-20. I'm just saying that now. If someone gets me some SW I'll be HAPPY to post up a dyno.


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (double0vr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *double0vr6* »_
hmmm what were yur 60 foot.

2.2/2.3 nothing better nothing worse.


----------



## [email protected] (Feb 20, 2007)

ive already dynod, just no graphs that are able to be posted
antiriced claimed he would pay for a dyno, were is he??


----------



## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Only 351whp on your k03s? That's weaksauce.
I'm going to break 260whp w/my k04-20.

naw dude, as soon as i get dyno'd and come back disappointed, i'm going to get methanol injection and break 260.....dare me


----------



## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (nuther337)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nuther337* »_
quicksilvergti is also from Orlando with a K04-20 and posts in here every now and again.

i guess he means his friend is the only one in orlando with a ko4-20 that actually drives it








mine's been sitting for over a month now


----------



## [email protected] (Feb 20, 2007)

i came dang near close to 260 with no tweaks


----------



## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_i came dang near close to 260 with no tweaks

what where the numbers you got?


----------



## [email protected] (Feb 20, 2007)

259, 289, someone send money and ill re-dyno


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Not to knock the 001, but I did realize that dyno was in 66* weather w/low humidity. You couldn't ask for much better than that to do a dyno... 
I am very much so disappointed to see that an 001 is making that power and people aren't reporting 260whp w/k04-020s. Just based on the fact that it's a larger inlet and slightly more aggressive compressor alone should make more HP than an 001.









Hey come on 260whp is still more than 240whp plus the ko4-20 will prob hold that alot longer then my ko4-001. I see 240 for jus a lil bit and at 7k im only at 200whp where a ko4-20 would prob be hold 215-230whp at 7k


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_Thats it? I went down there just so I could dyno 351whp on my ko3









ok guys ima go to the track today and if i run 103 or better then will my dyno be tru. what this thing about fl dynos. I dyno @ every well known and big turbo shops.
Heres the shop: http://tunedbycft.com/cms/


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_
2.2/2.3 nothing better nothing worse.


2.2/2.3 @104-105 u should be like low 13's. MY boy runs [email protected] in his gti stock turbo.
Go back to the track man and hit some lower times bro.


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (quiksilverGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *quiksilverGTI* »_
i guess he means his friend is the only one in orlando with a ko4-20 that actually drives it







mine's been sitting for over a month now

well sh||t come over to the grage and lets get that thing running. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (double0vr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *double0vr6* »_

2.2/2.3 @104-105 u should be like low 13's. MY boy runs [email protected] in his gti stock turbo.








Not going to happen. I ran 13.24 @ 102 and those MPH were a little low. I would need to see a time slip to prove that run. Unless your boy has an all wheel drive GTI


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Agreed... I ran 14.4 @ 98 w/a 6spd and k03s + mods. I had a 2.28 60', too. So I can't possibly see 13.6 @ 99. I would buy like a 14 @ 101 or something - but it'd definitely trap over 100 in the 13s.


----------



## [email protected] (Feb 20, 2007)

yea i traped 98 running a 14.7 on my old ko3 setup on a 6speed, 5speed make a diff, but not that much of a diff


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_







Not going to happen. I ran 13.24 @ 102 and those MPH were a little low. I would need to see a time slip to prove that run. Unless your boy has an all wheel drive GTI









na he's cutting 1.7-1.9 60 foots








forgot to mention that. he's a good driver


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (double0vr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *double0vr6* »_
na he's cutting 1.7-1.9 60 foots







forgot to mention that.








What tires? still dont believe it


----------



## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (double0vr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *double0vr6* »_
well sh||t come over to the grage and lets get that thing running. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

car runs just fine, i broke my foot a week after i got it running almost perfect. you won't believe how many people volunteer to drive me around, haha, I let them drive me around in the jetta though, not the gti


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

ko3s and ko4-20 sw seem to get along ok.







spool is a little late but what ever


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (beachball6)*

It was fun guys http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Time for bigger and quicker things








http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3096978


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Someone with Revo should sell me their ECU... I really need some software.


----------



## [email protected] (Feb 20, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Someone with Revo should sell me their ECU... I really need some software.

u already bought the sps3, just send your ecu to PI or go to a local revo dealer, i am tired of having this convo with you


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Agreed... I ran 14.4 @ 98 w/a 6spd and k03s + mods. I had a 2.28 60', too. So I can't possibly see 13.6 @ 99. I would buy like a 14 @ 101 or something - but it'd definitely trap over 100 in the 13s. 

my boys car is a 5speed that only about 2790 pounds and he cuts 1.9 60' pretty much everytime or better.


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_







What tires? still dont believe it










bfg drag radial with 9psi in them he launches them like there slicks. launch @ 5 K MY BOY CAN DRIVE MAN.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (double0vr6)*

Surprised he doesn't need axles yet







. I still think that trap is a little slow. The thing is that a 5spd 1.8T should trap > 6spd 1.8T all day long. Especially on a k03s. I have to hit 4th. Your buddy doesn't. Either way, that's pretty good for a k03s.


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

yea I wonder and think pretty much the same thing. hahaha but he did brake his tranny once and the dealer fixed it. He was lucky on that one.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (double0vr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *double0vr6* »_

bfg drag radial with 9psi in them he launches them like there slicks. launch @ 5 K MY BOY CAN DRIVE MAN.

haha, still no way...show me a time slip. I cut a 1.74 60ft on slicks and still trapped higher than that


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

When doing the k04-2x swap I assume you can use the Stock feed line from the k03 because Pro-imports does not have a feed line on their website?
Also can you use the factory TT k04 Oil return line or must I purchase the line from Pro-imports?


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_When doing the k04-2x swap I assume you can use the Stock feed line from the k03 because Pro-imports does not have a feed line on their website?
Also can you use the factory TT k04 Oil return line or must I purchase the line from Pro-imports?

stock feedline, and you can make a custom line if you get the right fittings for the return. otherwise just use the PI part


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_
stock feedline, and you can make a custom line if you get the right fittings for the return. otherwise just use the PI part

Okay so I'm assuming the stock TT line bends the wrong direction? I'd like to make a custom line if possible - if it will save me a few dollars but I'm not sure where to get the parts. If I piece it together of Pro-imports website it won't save me any cash because they have the little pieces marked up so much.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I have a TT feed line for sale







. I don't know if you'll need one or not, but I'll let you know that I have one. 
I've been told before that the stock oil feed line won't work for the k04-20. Maybe someone else has used it, but I had to run the k04 line... that was a complete PITA.


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

k03s oiline is too short ... the k04-20 might wokr on k03 though... not 100% sure


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (bmxp)*

Kind of agreed... when both were off the car the 020 line looked a little longer. It was a hassle to run even with it being a little longer. You may be able to do it though. It's also bent much differently. But you may be able to bend the hardline sections or maybe get enough flex out of the flex section.


----------



## [email protected] (Feb 20, 2007)

i am running a stock ko3 feed, and the PI return, ive installed the it using a bent up stock k03 drain as well and workes fine


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*

My k03s lines apparently were different then. I tried reusing the k03s return and it was too short. Same w/the rest of the lines. They were all close... but not close enough. I would have loved to have not run a new coolant feed, oil feed, and oil return line. 
Maybe it varies by year... maybe VW decided to save money by shortening lines up







Or maybe you're just more skilled at installing the kit. After all, I did spend a ton of time doing my install


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

You can use the stock VW feed line, but not the stock VW oil return line cause its too short. I have a brand new PI oil return line for sale. All you need is the fittings for each end. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 2:53 PM 2-27-2007_


----------



## [email protected] (Feb 20, 2007)

yup. the one kit i installed using a bent up line is still issue freee after 30k miles, i have about 10k or so on my PI line


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Ha ha... I have an OEM oil return line for sell


----------



## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

so the dyno i was going to with a bunch of friends is on March 31's. Problem is, i graduate college that day....so imma hafta wait...LAME!!!!!


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (Fuze911)*

college... who needs that







congrats


----------



## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_college... who needs that







congrats









thx, haha
just got my 3" catless dp on and got rid of my eurosport 2.5" dp with highflow cat (FS!!!). pulls harder uptop. but dyno is happy but the ears are ringing haha. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Fuze911)*

BUmp! So many people, including myself, with this kit and no new dynos.







I'm gonna dyno in two weeks. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Hey guys 
As you know i just got this kit installed a week ago and it drove great for the first day. The second day the car completly died on me out of nowhere. I brought my car to my mechanic and finally found out that my ecu was fried








Any ideas of how this could have happened? i was running this kit with a socketed GIAC chip. Even my mechanic doesnt know what happened. Now should i put my GIAC chip back in? or should i get flashed with Revo? i ran the GIAC chip with my stock turbo for almost 2 years with no problems, could the chip have caused this problem?
Strange how the car ran great for one day and then the ecu fries the next








Any help would be great


----------



## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_Hey guys 
As you know i just got this kit installed a week ago and it drove great for the first day. The second day the car completly died on me out of nowhere. I brought my car to my mechanic and finally found out that my ecu was fried








Any ideas of how this could have happened? i was running this kit with a socketed GIAC chip. Even my mechanic doesnt know what happened. Now should i put my GIAC chip back in? or should i get flashed with Revo? i ran the GIAC chip with my stock turbo for almost 2 years with no problems, could the chip have caused this problem?
Strange how the car ran great for one day and then the ecu fries the next








Any help would be great









was the software for the ko4-2x if it was, then not sure what happened. But if its not ment for the turbo, maybe its a possibility that that could of caused a problem. I have revo software and i think its ok. Never had anything else so my opinion is bias.


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

Yea the chip is not meant for the ko4-02x, its an old race file for the awd, Ran good for the first day but i dunno, Does Revo have specifc ko4-02x software or does everyone run the BT software?
Giac has not released the GIAC ko4-02x software for the awd engine code, so i was stuck using this chip. Right now its running on the stock chip, so maybe i should try Revo or something custom.


----------



## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

revo has software for the k04-2x


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

I thought there was someone selling k04-02x SW for an AWD on here? Guess maybe it was an AWW.


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: (Fuze911)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Fuze911* »_revo has software for the k04-2x

For the awd?


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

AWW s/w its me.
call revo it might work. because its the same immobilizer(sp) and has the defeat written in it.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I'm officially broke... but I'm officially going to be k04-020'd. Revo k04-02x SW + my ecu will be returning to me in a few days. Good news is... I have an SPS3 and SW so I'm just in need of a VAG cable now to make some hp.


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Congratulations.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_I'm officially broke... but I'm officially going to be k04-020'd. Revo k04-02x SW + my ecu will be returning to me in a few days. Good news is... I have an SPS3 and SW so I'm just in need of a VAG cable now to make some hp.


Bout damn time


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Now accepting donations for dyno








Otherwise... 
"Dyno coming soon....
Fall '09"


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Now accepting donations for dyno








Otherwise... 
"Dyno coming soon....
Fall '09"

Well someone better dyno this is ridiculous. I've been piecing togther this kit for 8 months (wife says I have better things to spend money on) and all I need are the coolant lines now. If I'm the first to dyno (1-2 months and I will dyno!) I'm gonna be pissed. We need some charts!


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

Seems like i cant find KO4-02x specific software for my AWD, So i guess i'll have to go with REVO BT,
What are your thoughts with using REVO BT with the KO4-023??


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

If you go REVO BT try to get the file that they use for the GT28r not the rs. It should work. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

They don't have a k04-2x file for AWD?


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_They don't have a k04-2x file for AWD? 

Not that i know of... I'd love to upgrade to the GIAC software but no dice








I doubt that they would make me one


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

I'd contact Pro-Imports. I just got my Revo k04-2x file from them. They seemed to be pretty gung ho about making it work for anyone ha ha.


----------



## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

<rant> heres an idea, ill sell you my PI kit cause I'm quite sure that any one with this kit will feel like i do....I NEED MORE POWER. very simple. At first i thought it was bad ass and the numbers that we all expect are great. But, the car is still a slug. I constantly get beat by the most ridiculous pieces of ****. Im mad...cars still slow...not to mention that a buddy of mine with just bolt ons keeps up with me... </rant>


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Fuze911)*

Well there is a problem if your buddy with just bolt ons can keep up. My cousin has a GLI with a K04-001 and cant even keep up so i dont know what your talking about unless you have something wrong. If you want more power just add some water/meth. And if you think your car is a slug wait till you put in a BT and have even more lag cause of spool time.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

I'm not going to lie... my k04-20 hasn't even been completely tuned properly (keep popping an IC pipe off when I beat on it - so I haven't event figured out how my boost/timing is going yet) and it's definitely a decent bit quicker. I mean, I would est about 4 cars on a k03s w/every bolt-on available... maybe more. I'm not even sure yet, but at least that. I imagine that would translate to about 2 cars on an 001. I mean, I'm pretty sure that it would be more w/a proper tune as well.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

You should get T bolt clamps to keep that upper IC pipe from popping off. I had the same problem. You can get them at ATP. I put one at the upper IC pipe going into the turbo and another on the top part of the hose coming from IC into INtake manifold. HAs not popped off ever since.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Fuze911)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Fuze911* »_<rant> heres an idea, ill sell you my PI kit cause I'm quite sure that any one with this kit will feel like i do....I NEED MORE POWER. very simple. At first i thought it was bad ass and the numbers that we all expect are great. But, the car is still a slug. I constantly get beat by the most ridiculous pieces of ****. Im mad...cars still slow...not to mention that a buddy of mine with just bolt ons keeps up with me... </rant>

















Fuze, You stated in another post that you got beat by a Firehawk 5.7ls1 v8. That car comes with 345hp and 345 ft lb of torque. You said he had exhaust and headers and whatever else. He was probably at or above 400hp. You have no business racing one of those in a 230-250 hp car. Stick to cars closer to your class ( hondas, stis, evos, bmw's, audis, some mustangs. I bet if you had water/meth in the betch you would of at least been closer to his A$$. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Hey 04VDubGLI, try a 2" hump hose from ATP along with some good clamps. I have not had any trouble with my IC pipe popping off. The 2" hose is a stretch, but once you get it over the lip of the turbo outlet and get a good clamp on it, it is not going anywhere. Use another good clamp on the charge-pipe side and you should be happy. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (nuther337)*

A K04-20'd GTI is definitely not slow. you may have something going on with your car. Thought I'd mention that I pulled on a new Lexus IS 350 the other day. 306 bhp. Driver was way surprised, and yelled out the window, "What have you got done to that thing?!!!" I said, "turbo" and he said, "No wonder".


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (nuther337)*

Fuze said his car is slow cause he got beat by a LS1 5.7liter V8 firehawk which comes stock with 345hp and 345 ftlb of torque plus he had exhaust , headers and other crap. The firehawk was easily at 400+ hp. He had no business even racing that beast. 350-400hp owns 230-250hp all day!


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_Fuze said his car is slow cause he got beat by a LS1 5.7liter V8 firehawk which comes stock with 345hp and 345 ftlb of torque plus he had exhaust , headers and other crap. 

First night I put my ko4-023 setup on, I came across a GTO 6.0 liter. I have not idea what was done, if anything, to the car over stock. But they do come with 400hp stock which is about 330 whp. We slowed to ~40 mph and to 115-120 mph, he only gained 1.5 cars on me. I was quite impressed with the -023 from that day forward. I ran some decent ET's too. So for all those peeps with this setup, saying it's slow and what not.....I'd have to say fix your issue's, whether hardware or software, or learn how to drive.







Cause with afformentioned things done right, this setup is not "slow"
Oh, and if you know him, IM Hetzen and ask him about our little encounter too....







Tell him he stills owes me a cheeseburger


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (nuther337)*

Actually... knock on wood, my turbo outlet side has been fine. The part that keeps popping off is actually where the upper charge pipe connects to the lower intercooler pipe. I spent another $70 today trying to get it fixed. Hopefully it's done now. It still doesn't line up quite like I'd like it to... but both sides have some pretty tall beads and t-bolts on them. Guess they just can't handle the 20-22psi







I'm almost to the point where I could have bought PI's charge pipe...


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

I too think that it's more of a hardware issue behind the steering wheel on the drivers seat







! The firehawk would of still beat FUZE, but by no more than 2 cars. ANyway, learn how to drive!







Anyone here use ELF LDX 5w40 motor oil? Im due for an oil change and i just bought 2 liters and a NAPA BIG KAHUNA!


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

What clutch are you guys using with this setup? Im looking for something with zero chatter. Thanks


----------



## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bluebomber* »_What clutch are you guys using with this setup? Im looking for something with zero chatter. Thanks

If you don't want chatter do not lighten the flywheel too much.


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

decided not to be an ass


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (beachball6)*

VR6 clutch with g60 14lb flywheel should be enough for this setup and the chatter should not be that bad if at all. SOuthbend is also good!


----------



## PolskiHetzen (Apr 25, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
First night I put my ko4-023 setup on, I came across a GTO 6.0 liter. I have not idea what was done, if anything, to the car over stock. But they do come with 400hp stock which is about 330 whp. We slowed to ~40 mph and to 115-120 mph, he only gained 1.5 cars on me. I was quite impressed with the -023 from that day forward. I ran some decent ET's too. So for all those peeps with this setup, saying it's slow and what not.....I'd have to say fix your issue's, whether hardware or software, or learn how to drive.







Cause with afformentioned things done right, this setup is not "slow"
Oh, and if you know him, IM Hetzen and ask him about our little encounter too....







Tell him he stills owes me a cheeseburger









psh that was luck








here is me vs. a 6.0








http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=txK_J3BHRqM


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (PolskiHetzen)*

Cool


----------



## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (nuther337)*

heres the deal! i need to drive one of your cars and you guys drive mine and tell me what you think. I have every possible bolt on except meth. I have a 3" catless dp and 2.5 side exhaust. I spike around 23-24psi and rest at 20psi till just about redline where it goes to about 18-19. I know its tuned right. But since i keep fouling my plugs with fuel, i know something is f'd up. im running stock plugs now gapped at .028 and the car has a smoother idle, but i think the bosch plugs that came with the kit felt a little better.


----------



## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (Fuze911)*

oh and as for you guys bashing on me about the firehawk incident, ive raced plenty cars around that power range and that is the first car that pulled on me by more than a car length. 
PS page 23 is mine!


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (Fuze911)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Fuze911* »_ But, the car is still a slug. I constantly get beat by the most ridiculous pieces of ****. Im mad...cars still slow...not to mention that a buddy of mine with just bolt ons keeps up with me... </rant>

















_Quote, originally posted by *Fuze911* »_oh and as for you guys bashing on me about the firehawk incident, ive raced plenty cars around that power range and that is the first car that pulled on me by more than a car length. 
PS page 23 is mine!









I don't mean to bash, but you're posts seem to be contradictory.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (nuther337)*

First off, you cannot tell what feels better for your car. The only way to find out what it likes is to run logs. If you don't have Vag, find someone that does and become thier best friend.
Fuze, what SW do you run? I know I should prob know, but I forgot. Then gap those plugs down to .027, that's where I ran mine. If you are fouling them out, your running rich. Rich will make the feel and be slow. No doubt, lean will feel fast, as it makes power, but at the harm of hurting the motor. So, I would suggest taking some fuel pressure out of the car. That is why I asked what sw......
And don't contradict yourself. Nobody is ripping on you or your car. We will help you get it right http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_First off, you cannot tell what feels better for your car. The only way to find out what it likes is to run logs. If you don't have Vag, find someone that does and become thier best friend.
Fuze, what SW do you run? I know I should prob know, but I forgot. Then gap those plugs down to .027, that's where I ran mine. If you are fouling them out, your running rich. Rich will make the feel and be slow. No doubt, lean will feel fast, as it makes power, but at the harm of hurting the motor. So, I would suggest taking some fuel pressure out of the car. That is why I asked what sw......
And don't contradict yourself. Nobody is ripping on you or your car. We will help you get it right http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

thx for that last comment, i'm glad your willing to help. 
i have REVO software and a 4-bar reg. with white tops that came with kit. Its running rich like crazy because i can smell it through my exhaust and i've had two pairs of spark plugs get fouled to the point where the car wouldn't start. I've been so busy in college(graduate in a week) that i've literally been neglecting to care for my car. My plan was to experiment with a 3bar but i just don't want to ruin anything. I wish i knew someone with an SPS3 and VAG-COM cause i cant afford either one at this point at all. I will gap the sparks next week when im out of hell and ill let you know how it goes. Any suggestions about the fuel pressure regulator?
The reason i made that statement about the firehawk was because i was a little upset, didnt mean for it to get out of hand. He just pulled up afterwards and yelled, "V8 power man!" and that kinda pissed me off. haha.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (Fuze911)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Fuze911* »_
thx for that last comment, i'm glad your willing to help.










_Quote, originally posted by *Fuze911* »_i have REVO software and a 4-bar reg. with white tops that came with kit. Its running rich like crazy because i can smell it through my exhaust and i've had two pairs of spark plugs get fouled to the point where the car wouldn't start. I've been so busy in college(graduate in a week) that i've literally been neglecting to care for my car. My plan was to experiment with a 3bar but i just don't want to ruin anything. I wish i knew someone with an SPS3 and VAG-COM cause i cant afford either one at this point at all. I will gap the sparks next week when im out of hell and ill let you know how it goes. Any suggestions about the fuel pressure regulator?

First off, ditch those god awful whitetops......they have become obsolete http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif Get some Siemens or Genesis injectors and it will help. Second, if you don't have Vag and the sw askes for a 4 bar, stick with the 4 bar untill you can find someone or afford your own Vag. From there, step down to a 3.5 then a 3 bar while running logs....I really can't tell you much till you tell me what your logs say


----------



## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_








First off, ditch those god awful whitetops......they have become obsolete http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif Get some Siemens or Genesis injectors and it will help. Second, if you don't have Vag and the sw askes for a 4 bar, stick with the 4 bar untill you can find someone or afford your own Vag. From there, step down to a 3.5 then a 3 bar while running logs....I really can't tell you much till you tell me what your logs say

so with Siemens or Genesis i'm looking for 380cc injectors correct? i'm just a little upset that this "kit" has to be modded to work to its full potential. Doesn't that defeat the purpose of a kit?


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (Fuze911)*

PI = the suck?








I think so... I bought those injectors and they didn't work well with mine waste of 200+ bucks
wish I could get my money back...


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

never had an issue with my TT injectors they were bluish


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (beachball6)*

I too ditched my white tops that came with the kit and ditched the 4 bar. Now i run audi TT blue tops at 3.5 bar and car feels great. The only reason PI put the white tops in the kit was to keep the price down. I would deff change the fuel injectors as I feel they are the cause of your problems. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_never had an issue with my TT injectors they were bluish

I would have recommended these also, but they are more expensive when bought brand new than the injectors I mentioned.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Unless you get them brand new for 200 like i did thanks to SLOJTI!







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Here are some pics to add to the page count of the dynoless thread.


----------



## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

yea i need some money before i can afford those...that sux. i think i will try some junk yards but i doubt i will find a wrecked tt there. and how much would a 3.5 bar cost? would any of you recommend trying a 3 bar with the white tops before i attempt to spent alot of money?


----------



## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (Fuze911)*

ooo i can add some pics..


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Fuze911)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Fuze911* »_yea i need some money before i can afford those...that sux. i think i will try some junk yards but i doubt i will find a wrecked tt there. and how much would a 3.5 bar cost? would any of you recommend trying a 3 bar with the white tops before i attempt to spent alot of money?

Yeah try out the 3 bar and see how that goes. A 3.5 bar FPR can be found at http://www.usrallyteam.com/fpr.html for $55 dollars it is made by GENESIS. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 11:43 AM 3-16-2007_


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

3 bar is a big drop from a 4 bar...thats why I say go with a 3.5 bar.


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_Unless you get them brand new for 200 like i did thanks to SLOJTI!







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Dude, I search the classifieds all the time looking for deals. If I happen to run across something that I remember someone wants, I'll always throwm them an IM


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I have a pic of my kos3 inlet in the inlet of my k04-02x. I'll have to get that one up. Also, does anyone elses k04 have a number stamped on the outlet? Like mine says .46 or something like that. I've had two k04-022s and one was like .32 and the other (current) was like .46 or something. What do those castings mean?


----------



## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
Dude, I search the classifieds all the time looking for deals. If I happen to run across something that I remember someone wants, I'll always throwm them an IM









thx man


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Does anyone else miss the turbo noise of their k03s? Mine used to be so much louder. I'm missing my extremely loud turbo noise







. K03s > k04-02x for turbo noises. 
Seriously though, anyone want to toss some money in my paypal so I can go dyno?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

NOISE? My k04-20 is much much louder than my k03sport. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

My k04-20 whistles louder than my k03S ever did. There did seem to be a break-in period where it was quieter though. perhaps your turbo will get louder with time. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I have a video of both... from other cars... the k03s was much louder on my car. My k04 is a completely different pitch, but after a while the actual turbo whistle just isnt heard as much and you just hear engine and exhaust. My k03s used to drown out everything.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

My k03sport and k04-20 are both loud but then again it has always been loud cause of my GHL 3inch DP and 3inch custom mandrel catback with no resonator and 3 inch carbonio CAI, Those where my very first mods when i bought my car in 2001.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_My k04 is a completely different pitch, but after a while the actual turbo whistle just isnt heard as much and you just hear engine and exhaust. My k03s used to drown out everything.

Thats because you are actually making some power now, and the exhaust is louder....


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

ha ha
Probably true. I definitely hear more exhaust now. I mean, I still hear it whistling up to like 10psi, then after that it's just loud engine and exhaust noise. I hear it sounds deeper now too - my friend w/an SRT4 said it actually almost sounds kind of around his car's depth/tone. Though... on my k03s I did have a SAMCO TIP. I'm running the stock TT TIP w/this. I guess that could factor into it a little.
$5/person... 12 people later and I could have a dyno sheet up finally? ANY TAKERS?!


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_ha ha$5/person... 12 people later and I could have a dyno sheet up finally? ANY TAKERS?!

first it was sw, and now it's a dyno fund.....get a job


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Full time student @CMU... w/a 15hr per wk job too. I don't have enough time to sleep as it is. I'm working on recovering from $900 for SW/SPS. Well, maybe I'll get a good internship over summer or something. Then I'll dyno it.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Here's a little idea of what my car sounded like w/a k03s and what it now sounds like...
k03 (about 36 sec into the vid)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iu1-xgupwUM
k04
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3Kc5979syU
I also have another vid of my car's exhaust that I'm going to add below this later w/edit...
Another exhaust clip...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qRWhSrYvKfg
It says 0-60, but really it's not. In this vid I did get up to like 50-55, but I didn't even run out first b/c I didn't want to spin, so it's really not like a 0-60 run. In case anyone was going to ask later.


_Modified by 04VDubGLI at 9:34 PM 3-19-2007_


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (Fuze911)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Fuze911* »_
thx man









Fuze911.....here ya go. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3136275 Don't say I never helped ya out


----------



## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
Fuze911.....here ya go. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3136275 Don't say I never helped ya out
















thx bro! now i need to sell my downpipe and buy these suckers


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

IM itching to get this kit chipped. been running it on stock programming for too long now, its either Revo BT or brakes?


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_IM itching to get this kit chipped. been running it on stock programming for too long now, its either Revo BT or brakes?

What the hell do you need bigger brakes for? for looks?


----------



## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Here i go with more problems. Just put the old sparks back in that came with the PI ko4-20 kit. The stock ones gapped at .027 and .028 pulled timing in 3rd and top of 4th. Now the car does not pull timing and a friend of mine told me i blew flame out of my side exhaust (which is exciting). But, i noticed that in upper 4th and all of 5th gear my turbo boosts WAY too much. ive seen it hit over 30psi. checked all the vac. lines and everything seems right. An evo pulled up but the boost spikes prevented me from doing anything. Any clue...do i need the overboost kit?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Fuze911)*

LOL! YES its called spiking to high and YES you need and overboost solution kit. Mine did the same thing and i'm sure some here have experienced the same thing. Mine boosted at 27 and fell down to 18 and sometimes it would even hit soft limp. It did this on the RACE N75 valve. I switched to the J VALVE with overboost solution kit and now i just spike at 21 and hold 18 straight through the gears. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I believe my car spikes up to almost 26 occasionally, but it holds right around 20 psi until around 6k when it drops down to like 17-18. I'm on the stock N75. 
I ran an EVO MR (closed track of course) and from 40-100 I was on his driver's door. He is running something like 22psi w/MBC, a 3" TBE, injen intake that replaces the charge piping, and... I think that's all he has. In his defense, he was hitting some sort of fuel cut right around 7k every gear. I don't know how much that does or does not hurt him... but I know he ran a 12.9 in the 1/4.


----------



## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

yea i have an mbc, but even in overboost mode, my mid throttle is HORRIBLE!


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

well i sold my k04-20 20th and picked up a hemi charger. before i sold the car i ran a friends ev8 that was chipped, mbc, and 3 inch tbe. pretty much stayed side by side until i hit 5th gear he pulled about 5 feet ahead of me from where we were previously, not bad i think for the 02m gearing up top.
i would have kept the car prob if i had a much bigger/smoother turbo i bet but who knows, i tired overboost fuze as i am sure you know with zero luck just like you. and for the record, my last dyno was 268 whp and 287 wtq, this was done on tt injectors and 4 bar, pfr7b gapped to .27, 93 octance with NITRO octance booster a local shop sells that isnt much more than fuel cleaner i am sure, i doubt i upped th octance any. some lemmi tweaks (nothing major, just what i gatherd and read up on), mbc set to 24psi, sps3 set to b9, t5


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

All you guys and your spiking, horrible part throttle crap. I never had any of that......
GIAC ftmfw


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

when i was on just n75, i had spiking but never bad part throttle or anything else, i controlled the spiking by setting sps to 7 and letting the rod out 1 turn or so


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Honestly, I don't think there's a thing wrong w/my Revo. I haven't had any partial throttle issues at all. Also, the spikes... I'm guessing they're completely fine. To say the least, I'm not really worried about them. My Revo, and I assume the others are the same, is setup as a two stage kind of deal. From 0-3500rpms it boosts up to about 11psi, once past 3500 it immediately jumps up and spikes around 25 and then it'll drop to 20-21 and hold there. By redline it's down to around 17psi, but otherwise it doesn't fluctuate - like it's all linear. My k03s w/APR used to bounce around and stuff... none of that now. It does the first stage, then hits the second stage and consistently will do 20-21psi for about 2000-2500 rpms and then it'll slowly taper down to redline. My only complaint is the first stage. I'd like to see more like 13-14psi, then I'd like to see it climb up. I will say... I have no real issues with wheel spin though as it is. It'll spin a bit at the top, but with it only boosting the like 11psi it doesn't spin down low. Pretty conviently really. Plus once I toss some 100oct in there I won't be too worry about putting a rod through my block b/c I won't have any ridiculous low tq spikes... all my tq comes on around 3700rpms. Once I get a dyno I'll see for sure, but I'd guess no more than +-200 from that.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Sounds kinda normal...the only thing I see on there that I don't like, and other Revo users have said the same, is where the boost comes in at. You say it's about 3500-3600. I used to get full spool bu 31-3200. Could be the tune, could be something else.


----------



## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

i figured out what was wrong with my part throttle and relatively late spool, one of the turbo to manifold bolts had backed out and was letting some exhaust gases escape. Tightened it up and now my part throttle is great and full spool is around 3000-3100rpms. 
I now have a problem with surging that only seems to happen in 5th gear, maybe 4th. It'll hit 24 psi at around 3000rpms, drop to ~16, and continue this till I let off the gas. Is it time to whip out the mbc? oh yeah, running giac with n75j.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (quiksilverGTI)*

^^ run the stock n75...I think it's recommended anyway. It will surge on pump gas at high boost in 5th gear. GIAC only runs a 3 bar, so to keep from blowing ish up, they bring the boost down to 15-16 at redline and under heavy load. Put some 100oct and put it on the race gas setting, and that boost will stayup at 20+ psi http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Mine is fully spooled by 2200rpms. Under load @ 2200 rpms I'll go straight to 10psi. The thing is the SW is setup so it's driveable... and so that it doesn't toss a rod. That's what Pat @ PI told me at least... and it seems to be exactly correct based on what I've seen. I mean... it's not going to make the most tq, but it'll make completely usable tq and hp w/o worrying too much about a hole.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Mine is fully spooled by 2200rpms. 

Fully spooled usually means at what RPM the turbo reaches your highest boost setting. If it hits 25 psi at 3500, that's when your fully spooled.


_Modified by SloJTI at 12:14 AM 3-23-2007_


----------



## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_^^ run the stock n75...I think it's recommended anyway. It will surge on pump gas at high boost in 5th gear. GIAC only runs a 3 bar, so to keep from blowing ish up, they bring the boost down to 15-16 at redline and under heavy load. Put some 100oct and put it on the race gas setting, and that boost will stayup at 20+ psi http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


thanks, going to switch them out in a couple of days and look everything else over to make sure nothing else is leaking or loose


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (quiksilverGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *quiksilverGTI* »_

thanks, going to switch them out in a couple of days and look everything else over to make sure nothing else is leaking or loose









n75F per GIAC's website


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Fully spooled and fully boosting are seperate terms. The turbo is spooled by 2200-2300rpms. I'll be happy to make a vid of it. In fact, when it spools that low under load is does spike to like 16 psi and then drops to 10-11 b/c that's what the SW is setup to do. The SW restricts the boost... not the turbo. Therefore, it is spooled by then. If the turbo was restricting the boost then I would agree with you... but it's a matter of SW... I mean... that's like suggesting that a k03s isn't fully spooled if you're running 16psi when you could be running 18psi or something. Spool is spool... boost is seperate all together.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

k04-20 setups dont surge, if they do, you got probs


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

yeah, i agree w/that statement. mine runs so much more smooth than my k03s did. it feels like it has less power b/c it doesn't tq spike @ 2500 rpms ha ha, but it's so much smoother. and there isn't any boost surge or even partial throttle surging...


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I belive that revo with MBC is like giac... haha b/c my spool is exactly how you guys are describing it... when i put n75 in... i have revo stylezzzzz...haha


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (bmxp)*

Its funny I have no probelmes with this turbo. The only problem I had was that high spike but that was because i had the N75 race valve in it. Other than that I dont get any sort of problems you guys are describing. Oh and I had the white top injector problem also but that was not my fault it was PI's fault for selling me those crappy injectors. I'm surprised noone from PI has chimed in in this thread. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 7:14 AM 3-23-2007_


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Bump cause i see lots of k04-20 questions that can be answered if they read this thread. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Here's a little idea of what my car sounded like w/a k03s and what it now sounds like...
k03 (about 36 sec into the vid)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iu1-xgupwUM
k04
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3Kc5979syU
I also have another vid of my car's exhaust that I'm going to add below this later w/edit...
Another exhaust clip...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qRWhSrYvKfg
It says 0-60, but really it's not. In this vid I did get up to like 50-55, but I didn't even run out first b/c I didn't want to spin, so it's really not like a 0-60 run. In case anyone was going to ask later.

_Modified by 04VDubGLI at 9:34 PM 3-19-2007_

What size TBE and was it resonated?
What are the boost plots for Revo Giac sw?


_Modified by sh{}e at 10:29 PM 3-23-2007_


----------



## spoolin turbo s (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_well i sold my k04-20 20th and picked up a hemi charger. before i sold the car i ran a friends ev8 that was chipped, mbc, and 3 inch tbe. pretty much stayed side by side until i hit 5th gear he pulled about 5 feet ahead of me from where we were previously, not bad i think for the 02m gearing up top.
i would have kept the car prob if i had a much bigger/smoother turbo i bet but who knows, i tired overboost fuze as i am sure you know with zero luck just like you. and for the record, my last dyno was 268 whp and 287 wtq, this was done on tt injectors and 4 bar, pfr7b gapped to .27, 93 octance with NITRO octance booster a local shop sells that isnt much more than fuel cleaner i am sure, i doubt i upped th octance any. some lemmi tweaks (nothing major, just what i gatherd and read up on), mbc set to 24psi, sps3 set to b9, t5

it would be killer to see a dyno from a k04-20 except from PI's







,especially after 24 pages


----------



## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_well i sold my k04-20 20th and picked up a hemi charger. before i sold the car i ran a friends ev8 that was chipped, mbc, and 3 inch tbe. pretty much stayed side by side until i hit 5th gear he pulled about 5 feet ahead of me from where we were previously, not bad i think for the 02m gearing up top.
i would have kept the car prob if i had a much bigger/smoother turbo i bet but who knows, i tired overboost fuze as i am sure you know with zero luck just like you. and for the record, my last dyno was 268 whp and 287 wtq, this was done on tt injectors and 4 bar, pfr7b gapped to .27, 93 octance with NITRO octance booster a local shop sells that isnt much more than fuel cleaner i am sure, i doubt i upped th octance any. some lemmi tweaks (nothing major, just what i gatherd and read up on), mbc set to 24psi, sps3 set to b9, t5


well the evo you described was either broken, didn't have the mods described, or had the mbc set very low.
an evo with a good reflash, an mbc set to 21 psi or higher, and a 3 inch turboback exhaust will trap over 110 mph with its eyes closed. and should trap 115 mph or even higher depending on other variables. i highly doubt your k04 will trap close to 110, and i know for a fact it wont even sniff 115.
i don't doubt the race, i doubt the details.
and yes, a dyno would be especially cute to see after 24 pages. anyone who posts an actual one will get a gold star.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

to each his own i guess, but it did have those mods and was running high boost, went from a second gear roll, but my friend with a stage 2 vr turbo walked me







does suck for me


----------



## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Does the k04-2x flow about 100cfm more air vs the k03s when comparing psi to psi? I can't find the sheet I was looking at


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (GiacGtiAgain)*

Once I find it I'll put up a vid of me and my friend's MR racing. He didn't pull too much on me at all. He ran 12.9...
MODS: 3' Injen intake with upper and lower intercooler hard pipes, 3' Full Buschur Racing turbo back exhaust,Dnp Tubular ss manifold,Greddy type rs bov, Hallman pro rx manual boost controller (think he told me 21-22psi)
http://s3.photobucket.com/albu...4.flv
There's a vid of his run in fact. 
Evo9s will WALK Evo8s ALL DAY LONG. They have Mivec and the bigger turbo... a stock Evo9 typically is faster than a pretty well modded Evo8. Feel free to look up the times stock vs. stock.

ALSO, if anyone feels like giving me money I'll get a dyno next week. So... anyone who really wants one, I'll be happy to get you one. 
My exhaust is a 3" GHL TBE w/resonator... to answer any questions.


_Modified by 04VDubGLI at 3:53 PM 3-24-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

yea, 9s are redonculous, the one i had at it with was an 8


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Spool...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D04E4mSovTM
Quick Pull and an idea of boost...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A7_9bbWZa9c


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Spool...Quick Pull and an idea of boost...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A7_9bbWZa9c

Rev that ish out brotha.....7000rpm http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## spoolin turbo s (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Are you k04-20 guys just afraid to get dissapointed at the dyno or what? 
Hell there are a bunch of guys who have done this and not one has a file of their dyno or a print out of their dyno other than the one on PI's site?
24 pages and still not one dyno.....but many will get one for free.........hell i'd dyno my grandmothers 2.slow beetle for free


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

they dyno, people like you and posts like yours just make them not wanna post them


----------



## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_they dyno, people like you and posts like yours just make them not wanna post them









and people like me and posts like this. if people really won't post their dyno, its because they are weak. and if their weak dyno's arent posted because 2 losers like me and spoolin are gonna trash it, then the k04 guys really need to a grow a set.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (GiacGtiAgain)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GiacGtiAgain* »_
and people like me and posts like this. if people really won't post their dyno, its because they are weak. and if their weak dyno's arent posted because 2 losers like me and spoolin are gonna trash it, then the k04 guys really need to a grow a set.

And posts like this is why there is a general consensous that many people on Vortex need to grow up








I wish I still had the ko4-023 on my car, at least for a bit. Dyno's and 12sec ET's galore


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Ha ha, I usually do run it to like 6800-7000. This was just kind of a teaser...
It is awful hard to read my boost gauge and stuff... sorry about that. If you look closely, it looks like it holds about 20-21psi pretty solidly. I do know it drops @ redline, but that was up to about 6k. If I recall correctly... that's high boost 4 on my SPS3. I've definitely run high boost 5 before w/what seems to be no issue... I'm in need of a vag cable so I can figure out what the best timing/boost setup will be... plus I need to do some lemmi-ing.
My vid is just as good as any dyno... it shows how one runs? ha ha


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i think 268 isnt weak


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (spoolin turbo s)*


_Quote, originally posted by *spoolin turbo s* »_Are you k04-20 guys just afraid to get dissapointed at the dyno or what? 
Hell there are a bunch of guys who have done this and not one has a file of their dyno or a print out of their dyno other than the one on PI's site?
24 pages and still not one dyno.....but many will get one for free.........hell i'd dyno my grandmothers 2.slow beetle for free






























you pay for the dyno and I'll get you a dyno sheet spoolin  http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 65 bux to my paypal 3 runs back to back with AFR...I'll use 04VDubGLI's car, I am sure he won't mind










_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
Fully spooled usually means at what RPM the turbo reaches your highest boost setting. If it hits 25 psi at 3500, that's when your fully spooled.

_Modified by SloJTI at 12:14 AM 3-23-2007_

although that's usually true, this turbo can have full boost by 3K if not sooner (~2X.XXpsi), *BUT* the SW limits this until you are passed peak tq in order not to snap a rod http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Once I find it I'll put up a vid of me and my friend's MR racing. He didn't pull too much on me at all. He ran 12.9...
MODS: 3' Injen intake with upper and lower intercooler hard pipes, 3' Full Buschur Racing turbo back exhaust,Dnp Tubular ss manifold,Greddy type rs bov, Hallman pro rx manual boost controller (think he told me 21-22psi)


12.9 in an EVO which is AWD vs. a Jetta which is FWD are 2 totally different beasts


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Val... you stopped by the k04 thread. I'll absolutely go w/you and get a dyno @ Hybrid w/my car. Honestly, I'm sure I'll eventually do one, but I really don't have $65+ to kill on a dyno right now. I'll probably do one during the summer though if not.
I definitely agree w/the two different beasts (awd vs. fwd). I was just saying he ran a 12.9 - sort of as defense for 20thAE.


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

Hey 200320thAE2632 what software are you using?


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

revo, and remember, from a dig, i hve no chance, from i roll i obviously did, awd on the highway is not good


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

revo BT? or specific software?


----------



## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_revo BT? or specific software?

he had the pro-imports file for the ko4-20


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Revo k04-02x SW FTW!
Because everyone knows it's the best...
Yeah, I'm not gonna lie... I wouldn't have gotten GIAC simply because they wanted me to get a TT MAF sensor. Not to mention I love the versatility of the SPS3 vs. purchasing additional programs from GIAC. I wouldn't be surprised to hear that GIAC makes more wtq though because of how it's setup vs the Revo setup. Though... the Revo setup certainly does make me feel a LOT safer about my rods and about my axles because of how the boost comes on. GIAC may be more fun to drive though if you don't ever get above like 3500-3700rpms.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Revo k04-02x SW FTW!
Because everyone knows it's the best...
Yeah, I'm not gonna lie... I wouldn't have gotten GIAC simply because they wanted me to get a TT MAF sensor. Not to mention I love the versatility of the SPS3 vs. purchasing additional programs from GIAC. I wouldn't be surprised to hear that GIAC makes more wtq though because of how it's setup vs the Revo setup. Though... the Revo setup certainly does make me feel a LOT safer about my rods and about my axles because of how the boost comes on. GIAC may be more fun to drive though if you don't ever get above like 3500-3700rpms.

When you show me 1 timeslip that is close to the ET I put down with the GIAC sw and this turbo, I'll agree with ya. But Revo can't make power, just like they can't with thier ko3 sw. Everyone knows if you want to go fast, go with GIAC


----------



## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
When you show me 1 timeslip that is close to the ET I put down with the GIAC sw and this turbo, I'll agree with ya. But Revo can't make power, just like they can't with thier ko3 sw. Everyone knows if you want to go fast, go with GIAC
















i gotta agree. 
although ironically, from what ive seen, revo might be the most agressive chip for the new 2.0t. track times and dynos to support it too.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

You ran a 13.2 ish? What was your trap, 60', etc..? You're a 5spd? Were you on slicks or street tires?


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i made 215 wheel on revo stage 2 on my k03


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

APR is the best! REVO IS AIGHT! I wish APR made k04-20 SW i'd be all over it like white on rice. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

if they did i am sure revo would steal it lol


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Word... it would have been an upgrade for me, which would have saved me a ish ton of money.
I do think they have some of the best programming though. They suck though b/c they have TT225 SW, so they really just have to like copy and paste it, but they won't...


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

not that easy dude


----------



## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Word... it would have been an upgrade for me, which would have saved me a ish ton of money.
I do think they have some of the best programming though. They suck though b/c they have TT225 SW, so they really just have to like copy and paste it, but they won't...








 yea not that easy TT has a few different sensors and the such, also think about how the numbers are close to the stage 3, they arent right on but close enough that it would steal heat away from the stage 3 and 3+ kits. But im sure you could get their k04 file and with the hardware kit and a little LW tweak make it work very easily.


_Modified by theswoleguy at 12:35 PM 3-27-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (theswoleguy)*

I realize it's not a drag and drop affair... however, I'd bet there isn't a big difference in the tuning. 
It really is close to stg3 numbers... 
The k04-001 SW utilizes the stock injectors w/a 4bar FPR. I don't know how much LW tuning it would take to try and get that to work w/the TT injectors and a 4bar or something.


----------



## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

i dont think it would be to far off to use the TT injectors w. a 4 bar and of course the whole hardware kit, I mean dan did some crazy ass **** with just giac software and a diode.


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Bump for my big loss in gas mileage since my SW arrived...
Also, anyone ready to give me or Val some $$ for a dyno plot? What's it worth to those wanting it? I mean, if you REALLY are considering this setup, what is $65? (Yeah, you could say that to me, but I be default can say a lot being a college student







)


----------



## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

i could contribute, but im not doing the whole 65 as i want to put my car on a dyno after the clutch job, if you promise not to waste it on booze and cheap women







sir college student.
PS how do you like your 28mm RSB i just ordered the same exact one


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (theswoleguy)*

RSB=One of the best single upgrades you can do to a MKIV http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I've been rockin the NS 28mm RSB for years and it is great.


----------



## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: (nuther337)*

thanks sorry for the off topic, ordered mine from MJM so hopefully it will get here soon.


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (theswoleguy)*

I have a 28mm neuspeed RSB also. GREAT MOD! wanna see how the feeling will change when i get my spacers in. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (theswoleguy)*

Trust me when I say I don't drink too much and my gf would be very upset if I wasted it on cheap women







I can say that if anyone wants an exact Revo k04-020 dyno it needs to happen sooner than later b/c soon I'm going to do some lemmi-ing and intake manifold and some other little goodies here and there








I like my 28mm. I got it from MJM as well... something like $230 shipped. Not bad @ all price wise. I have it set on the medium setting currently... I'd absolutely go to hardest. I still can't even get my ass end to get loose yet. It's absolutely helped though... I mean, I still have some body, but overall I've definitely lost some. Keep in mind I'm on good ole stock GLI springs/struts/shocks. The rear end used to pull the front end out so bad... that'd gotten better now though.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (theswoleguy)*

*i could contribute, but im not doing the whole 65 as i want to put my car on a dyno after the clutch job, if you promise not to waste it on booze and cheap women sir college student. * 

Ok... so there's one person contributing. Someone else has to have like $20-30 sitting in their paypal account. $30 for all of the info you could possibly want to know about running a k04-022 w/PI Revo Stg3 file - untweaked... unanything. Someone?


_Modified by 04VDubGLI at 9:59 PM 3-29-2007_


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

If you had GIAC sw, I'd help out


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

go sell some g-damn plasma and get your dyno


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (beachball6)*

How much cash can you get for plasma? 
I mean, there's always the sperm bank for $$, but I'd feel weird having kids somewhere... I mean...








I'll have to get a dyno just to prove the superiority of Revo








I don't doubt that GIAC would make more power, actually... that's what I wanted to go w/originally, but Revo just is easier for me.


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Back on topic here...
Anyone ever hear about the Turbo inlet hose ever collapsing while under boost?
in low gears like 2nd or 3rd at WOT while the boost is building up i feel there is a restriction for a couple of moments and then it would keep pulling, for some reason it feels like it could be that hose squeezing together and restricting power.
anyone ever experience that?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

Yeah. Forge has a film of this occurring. It happens w/the stock TIP from 01s and older. If I recall correctly, they reinforced the TIPs for 02+. 
Anyone have any lemmiwinks tips for tuning?


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Anyone have a spare up-pipe for the -02x? PM me with a price if you do http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Ha ha.... anyone have any ideas what I would be able to get out of all of my stuff w/o the SW? There is an APR stg3+ for sale locally for cheap. Anyone know anyone interested? I have every piece... all that would be needed would be SW and nuts/gaskets. I mean... I doubt it'd work out, but if someone offers me the right amount I'd take this off and pick up the Stg3+. I wish it would have been for sale like 4 months ago


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

im selling an sps3.


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_Anyone have a spare up-pipe for the -02x? PM me with a price if you do http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Damn I had an extra one and sold it to BMXP for 100. Brand NEW! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_Damn I had an extra one and sold it to BMXP for 100. Brand NEW! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

IT IS NICEEE

yep.. it's working well for me... haha


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

anyone else have problems with their Turbo inlet hose collapsing on them??


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

I don't! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

I finally found some spark plugs that i am happy with. I bought some NGK pfr7b the ones that apr puts on the STAGE 3 kit. They also came stock on the 1994-late 90's S4's. They are one heat colder. I am happy with these pluggs. They come factory gapped at .025. Only down side is the 11 dollars per plug.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_I finally found some spark plugs that i am happy with. I bought some NGK pfr7b the ones that apr puts on the STAGE 3 kit. They also came stock on the 1994-late 90's S4's. They are one heat colder. I am happy with these pluggs. They come factory gapped at .025. Only down side is the 11 dollars per plug.









they are also platinum so you'd have to replace them once every 50K...hence the price http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I'm running the NGK coppers... so I'm changing ever 4-5k. I may have to pick those up. I don't really want to keep buying these coppers.... after all, they're only one range colder anyhow. Plus I have to regap them when I get them.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_I'm running the NGK coppers... so I'm changing ever 4-5k. I may have to pick those up. I don't really want to keep buying these coppers.... after all, they're only one range colder anyhow. Plus I have to regap them when I get them.

why is that a big deal? just do it every oil change...they are cheap enough...I check plug gap on all plugs I get, I don't trust them out of the box...


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_why is that a big deal? just do it every oil change...they are cheap enough...I check plug gap on all plugs I get, I don't trust them out of the box...


b/c 04vdubgli has a fleshy patch where his thing use to be 








J/K man... doesn't bother me as far as the changing goes... but i could see how it can get annoying to changed every time... pobably can run those platinums even longer too... so... who knows..


_Modified by bmxp at 4:09 PM 4-5-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i have been telling people to get the pfr7b's for so long now, doesnt anyone read posts anymore?
i loved mine gapped to .27, really smoothed out the idle, althoughmy last 7e's lasted 7k and they didnt even need to be changed...


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

my 7e's are on around... 4-5k right now. I'm going to wait until my next oil change to change them - which is like 1k.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_i have been telling people to get the pfr7b's for so long now, doesnt anyone read posts anymore?
i loved mine gapped to .27, really smoothed out the idle, althoughmy last 7e's lasted 7k and they didnt even need to be changed...

I do read posts and that is why i looked into the NGK pfr7b's and bought them! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

i was wondering if anyone else changed there plugs as frequently as i do, my car tends to let me know when its about that time as she will get a stumble and misfires. Drop new plugs and shes happy till about the next 1.5-2 oil changes then its that time again.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (theswoleguy)*

I changed mine every 3000 miles at every oil change because of the copper bkr7e's. Personally i dont want to be changing my plugs that often. If you think about it, I paid 44 bucks for the NGK pfr7b's which are laser platinum and are suppose to last at least 50,000 miles. If you were to change the bkr7e's every 3000miles, you would have changed them about 17 times be4 getting to 51,000 miles. At 6 bucks for 4 plugs times 17 times = $102.00. So buying the expensive plugs once is much much cheaper than buying the copper ones 17 times be4 hitting 50,000 miles. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

That's exactly the logic I am feeling about my coppers now. They're cheap, but really if you change them a bunch they get expensive. Plus you can always make some sort of argument for the continuous removal of coil packs being bad for those or something and the likelihood of breaking something increases like 10 fold.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_I changed mine every 3000 miles at every oil change because of the copper bkr7e's. Personally i dont want to be changing my plugs that often. If you think about it, I paid 44 bucks for the NGK pfr7b's which are laser platinum and are suppose to last at least 50,000 miles. If you were to change the bkr7e's every 3000miles, you would have changed them about 17 times be4 getting to 51,000 miles. At 6 bucks for 4 plugs times 17 times = $102.00. So buying the expensive plugs once is much much cheaper than buying the copper ones 17 times be4 hitting 50,000 miles. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

wrong calculation...most of you run syn oil (I hope at least)
so 50K = 10 oil changes @ 6 bux = 60 bux total (and cheaper if you buy them in bulk)
the platinums are 60 bux anyway: 
http://www.ecstuning.com/stage...=1.8T
I run iridium plugs on my car and change them every 10K or so and it runs great...iridium has a much greater melting poing then copper/platinums and seems to perform great on my car
NGK IX iridium 6418 BKR7EIX 0.032 TURBO $6.95 
http://www.ngk.com/results_app.asp?AAIA=1398539
you can find more info on iridiums here: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/p...e=nml
04VDUBGLI - I am pretty sure I have a brand new set of these sittiing @ my house: http://www.ecstuning.com/stage...=1.8T


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

what are you guys running for oil?
i've been mostly running 5w30 Castrol


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

mobil 1 0W 40


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (nuther337)*

I run Mobil1 5w30 every 3-4k.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I run ELF excellium ldx syn 5w40 every 3000 miles and i paid 44 for my pfr7b's which is still cheaper than 60! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 3:46 PM 4-6-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 3:47 PM 4-6-2007_


----------



## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

mobil 1 0w40 every 5k miles. just ordered another set of brk7e's, thats right, the cheap copper ones. I don't know if I'll even put on another 3-4k miles on the car before i part it out and sell it







so platinum ones are out of the question


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (quiksilverGTI)*

Took the pig to the track again last night. There was bracket racing going on and they were letting test and tuners run in between. In 5.5 hours I got only two runs. First was a 14.0 @ 103 2.45 60 ft. Second was a 14.0 @ 104 2.5 60 ft. This is only my second time out to the track and I am hoping to continue to cut down my ET. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I'm going to the track next Sunday (as long as everything goes as planned). If I don't hit 13.8 or lower I'm going to be pretty angry. I did 14.4-14.5 @ 98 (~2.3 60') easily w/my k03s. Those aren't bad runs though. The traps at least suggest 13s should be happening. 
Anyone have any lemmiwinks hints or anything? I know someone who drives a Hemi (not mentioning names) who does, but won't share for some reason.


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

control your right foot. this turbo has stupid amounts of TQ.
my runs would be like this. 
GREEN LIGHT 
chirp WAHHHHHHHH (tires spining)
shift CHIRP WAHHH (spin some more)
shift chirp traction
shift


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (nuther337)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nuther337* »_Took the pig to the track again last night. There was bracket racing going on and they were letting test and tuners run in between. In 5.5 hours I got only two runs. First was a 14.0 @ 103 2.45 60 ft. Second was a 14.0 @ 104 2.5 60 ft. This is only my second time out to the track and I am hoping to continue to cut down my ET. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

what tires do you have on your car? 2.5 60ft isn't good...you need to be in the 2.1 range on street tires to get a good ET...GL


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

I am on street tires 225/40/18 and aware that 2.5 is a crappy 60 ft. I was heavy on the clutch on the first run and too light on the clutch on the second run. My friend who was there with me ran a 2.1 60 ft in his MKII VR so I know that my 60 ft is what I need to work on. It was a bummer that I only got two runs in. I had approx. 5 gallons of 93 and two gallons of 100 oct. SPS settings were Boost 8 Timing 7. Car felt pretty strong in that chilly weather.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (nuther337)*

there is no flex in a 40 sidewall...you are gonna have to ride out the clutch more...don't just rev and drop the clutch, ride it a little and keep it in 1st gear as long as possible, let it hit the rev limiter a few times, then shift...


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

Thanks for the input. I understand that the method of bouncing off rev-limiter has to do with gearing and such, but would this method also be effective on the 02M since the gearing is different? I am a little scared to bounce off of rev-limiter, but am willing to try it. I rode out the clutch too much on the first run and not enough on the second run. Having only two tries was a bummer since the weather was so nice.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (nuther337)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nuther337* »_Thanks for the input. I understand that the method of bouncing off rev-limiter has to do with gearing and such, but would this method also be effective on the 02M since the gearing is different? I am a little scared to bounce off of rev-limiter, but am willing to try it. I rode out the clutch too much on the first run and not enough on the second run. Having only two tries was a bummer since the weather was so nice.

you can try it on the street, you aren't breaking any speed limits in 1st gear...just don't bounce off the limiter too much on the street and be careful of wheel hop as that can break axles...(wheel hop is different then just spinning tires btw) do you shift into 4th gear @ the end of the run?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

Come on guys you can do it. We dont have dynos but at least we have track times. BeachBall and SloJti had decent runs on the track. They could help you guys out. I hope some of you guys will be at waterfest as i too will be tracking and dynoing the k04-20. Any of you guys running short shifters.??? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 5:22 PM 4-8-2007_


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

im about to end the whining of no dyno plots. i was just packing and found some sheets so i took a pic or two.


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (beachball6)*

Yeah, with a six-speed I think you have to shift in to 4th. 
Yeah, I also have a short-shifter.


_Modified by nuther337 at 7:35 PM 4-8-2007_


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (nuther337)*

ok almost a year later i get off my ass and post these. now that i dont have the turbo and hopefully tomorrow i wont have the car here it is.
93octane, and i forget sps settings. this was my DD set up on a BFSMIC. 
the graphs are jumpy as hell because they couldnt find a good ground pick up.








same run as below








results yes the 287 is a pretty big spike, but you will see when it calmed down it was still ~275ish








bad pick up run
















enjoy http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by beachball6 at 7:16 PM 4-8-2007_


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_ BeachBall and SloJti had decent runs on the track. 

13.24 is the time to beat guys















I ran open diff on an o2j with no short shifter. I did however flat-foot shift, I never lifted off the gas. The only other advice is to drive it like you stole it. Yes, i broke my car at the track, but it was one hell of a ride.


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_13.24 is the time to beat guys
















That would be 13.24 with slicks


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_
That would be 13.24 with slicks























Still 13.24







oh, and thats on a 93oct program







My best ET on a 100oct program was 13.23 but the MPH was all f'ed up cause of my MAF throwing codes. I went [email protected]


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

:cough:


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Nuther337, what Val (18T_BT) was saying w/riding out first is that when it starts spinning/hopping (at least in my best guess) sometimes it'll give the illusion that it's at redline, but it's really not. Then you shift, assuming it's at redline, and the next gear like almost bogs kind of. If that made any sense?
I would suspect that anyone w/this setup and a 6spd would actually be better off b/c even w/a k03s you hit 4th gear. Anyone with a 5spd... it'd be REAL close, but they may even hit 4th? What's the relevance of a short shifter? I'm pretty sure that shifting (as long as you don't blow real hard) can make like a .03 difference? I mean, I see an argument for shift points (and obv launches), but as far as the actual physical function, as long as you aren't grinding gears or missing gears I doubt that the actual shifts have much to do w/times.
Val, can I borrow your slicks so I can beat SloJTI







.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Val, can I borrow your slicks so I can beat SloJTI







. 


I'll send you my slicks, and if you beat my time, I'll pay for all shipping. You don't beat me time, you pay for all shipping + 50 bux "rental fee"







In other words, I don't think you can beat my time on 93oct.
And 3rd gear in an O2J is good until almost 120mph, so no need to shift into 4th


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Damn 5spds. Well, it's definitely 4th for an 02m. When I had my k03s it was just barely into 4th. I imagine this will actually use 4th a little. Hm... so you're saying for $50 + s/h (worst case scenario), I can borrow your slicks? How much do you think shipping will be? What wheel are they on? 16"?


----------



## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

hmm, i just realized i have wednesday night off of work this week, "street drags" night at the track, might have to go out there and hope I get more than 2 runs in, so I can get decent times.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Hm... so you're saying for $50 + s/h (worst case scenario), I can borrow your slicks? How much do you think shipping will be? What wheel are they on? 16"?

You'd need to downgrade your front brakes to 11.3" dude, 15 inch Bogarts







All the cool kids are doing it


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Ah... I need 16". I don't want to downgrade my brakes. Maybe Val's are 16" and maybe he'll rent em to me.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Ah... I need 16". I don't want to downgrade my brakes. Maybe Val's are 16" and maybe he'll rent em to me.

I run 15X7 Kosei's
They make slicks in 16's, plus you can just get drag radials in 17's (check out the BFG's: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/...ace=4
that's probably what I'll run on my 15's...the first set were nice to me, too bad it's a bit much if you really daily drive your car with a lot of miles...but I don't drive my car as much as most


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I'll just be running my street tires it looks like. Unless there's anyone in the Pitts area who wants to rent me some 16" slicks/DRs.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_I'll just be running my street tires it looks like. Unless there's anyone in the Pitts area who wants to rent me some 16" slicks/DRs.

Good luck trying to find a true slick that is 16" and will fit under our fender and still be able to turn the wheel. I wanted them and can't find them, so I run 15's.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_I'll just be running my street tires it looks like. Unless there's anyone in the Pitts area who wants to rent me some 16" slicks/DRs.

I dunno of anyone that runs that size in FWD in this area...most are 15's and smaller...you are trying to get the biggest sidewall to fit in there that you can http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
closest I've seen (but too wide and need at least a significant spacer)
MTT-3792 
26X10.50R16LT 
MTT-9553
26.0
$169.99
MTT-3793R 
255/50R16
26.0
10
$158.99


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
I dunno of anyone that runs that size in FWD in this area...most are 15's and smaller...you are trying to get the biggest sidewall to fit in there that you can http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
closest I've seen (but too wide and need at least a significant spacer)
MTT-3792 
26X10.50R16LT 
MTT-9553
26.0
$169.99
MTT-3793R 
255/50R16
26.0
10
$158.99


I've never seen a 10.5 inch tire fit under our fenders. If you have pics, I'd like to see them. Thats a big tire for a fwd car


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

you can try harley davidson slicks: 
http://www.mandhtires.com/stor...etail


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_you can try harley davidson slicks: 
http://www.mandhtires.com/stor...etail


I wonder what the weight rating on those tires would be?








I really wish someone would make a 16" drag radial with some sidewall for our cars. BF discountinued thier 225 series DR and Hoosier is only a 24 inch tire. 26" diameter with a 225 series width would, IMO, work well on our cars


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_I wonder what the weight rating on those tires would be?








*stretch slick, now that's uber euro







* 
I really wish someone would make a 16" drag radial with some sidewall for our cars. BF discountinued thier 225 series DR and Hoosier is only a 24 inch tire. 26" diameter with a 225 series width would, IMO, work well on our cars
*they make a 16 inch again, I'll have to look it up, I just saw a release for it a few months back*


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

im officially out of my 1.8t. all i have to say is ARRRR. figure it out.


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

Im planning on my k04 install this weekend. Shawn you have any words of wisdom? Im planning on doing the turbo and the FMIC saturday night and sunday. Ive got all new gaskets, seals, hardware, lines, t-bolts... If anybody else had any install tips Id very much appreciate it. Derek


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (loudgli)*

nothing off the top of my head, ill pm you my number and feel free to call me with any issues. just take your time, bend your heater core hoses ALOT. i didnt my 1st time and i was hating life and the install for about 3hrs before it was forced in there. everything is a tight fit but it all fits.
do it right the 1st time and take your time thats the biggest thing you dont wanna be doing this more than you have to.
shawn
ps guys i didnt get a beetle. i got a TR R32 the beetle is a joke that people are buying left and right locally. mucho fun lol.


----------



## Chimpy2330 (Sep 6, 2003)

*Re: (loudgli)*

So i WANT TO FINALLY GET OUT OF MY KO3. I was wonderin if anyone can list up what i need to swap out to a k04-22/23/24. I've seen the pro-import setup it's cool and all but it's in back order. can ayone help me out. and i have revo software right now i dont know if to stick to it or get apr or giac.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Chimpy2330)*

I would suggest to read all 26 pages of this thread to answer all your questions. Everything has been answered on this thread from what spark plugs you should use to how to drive on the quarter mile to get decent times. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
And loud GLI if you have any questions feel free to ask about the install. Only hard part about installing this damn turbo is getting the top oil feedline in there with 2 new washers without any leaks. Trust me i have installed the k04-20 5 times. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_Only hard part about installing this damn turbo is getting the top oil feedline in there with 2 new washers without any leaks. Trust me i have installed the k04-20 5 times. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

wait you used washers there???...


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Since i am in a good mood this morning, i will help you out chimpy. I will list everything i have on my car and you can get an idea from that.
K04-20 turbo off audi tt 225 or Seat Leon
K04-20 exhaust manifold
Audi TT 380 blue top injectors
3.5 Genesis FPR
Carbonio CAI
VR6 or aUDI TT 2.75 MAF
REVO K04-20 SW
Tyrol Sport USMIC
Baileys DV
Forge AUDI TT Turbo Inlet Pipe
Pro IMports Uppipe
GHL 3inch DP
Custom 3 inch mandrel bent catback
Remus bored out muffler
n75 J valve
Upgraded dog bone mount
Snow Performance water/meth map kit
NSP POWER GASKET PLUS
APR STAGE 3 NGK PFR7b spark plugs gapped at 0.027
APR stage 3 fuel pump
SAMCO BOOST HOSES
PRO IMPORTS UPPER intercooler pipe
GHL LOWER intercooler pipe
vr6 clutch with G60 13lb flywheel
That is everything i have on my car. You get the point. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_
wait you used washers there???...









Yeah i used washers there. That is why I had to install the damn turbo 5 times cause i did not have the right size washers at first and it kept leaking oil through there. Finally i got the right size from the dealer and no leaks. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_
Yeah i used washers there. That is why I had to install the damn turbo 5 times cause i did not have the right size washers at first and it kept leaking oil through there. Finally i got the right size from the dealer and no leaks. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

eek


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_you can try harley davidson slicks: 
http://www.mandhtires.com/stor...etail


so would these work on our stock gli/337 16" steele


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

I don't have a different fuel pump. I've considered getting one... but don't have one. Maybe that's why you have a 3.5bar FPR and I have a 4bar or something? Wonder if there is any necessity for one w/this setup. All I know is my gas mileage sucks now, so a fuel pump couldn't make it much worse I'm sure.

LoudGLI... the oil feed is a PITA. I spent almost all of my total time on that. The rest of the stuff isn't bad @ all. When are you doing? If you do it Sunday I'll drive out and help for gas money... maybe? ha ha


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (double0vr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *double0vr6* »_
so would these work on our stock gli/337 16" steele

I'd contact the manufacturer and ask them if you can use them on a car first
I doubt they'll work as they are only 5 inches wide


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_I don't have a different fuel pump. I've considered getting one... but don't have one. Maybe that's why you have a 3.5bar FPR and I have a 4bar or something? Wonder if there is any necessity for one w/this setup. All I know is my gas mileage sucks now, so a fuel pump couldn't make it much worse I'm sure.


your gas mileage is low because you beat on your car


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

well i have on the there now some sumitomos tire that are kinda stick-e 160 tread wear. cut 2.1 with them. And there 225-50-16 on a stock gli steele. would u say that slick is about that size! i dont know.


----------



## Chimpy2330 (Sep 6, 2003)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

wow thanks.........only prob is that i can't get my hands on an exhaust manifold here in miami. i dont want to use a stock one since i've heard that the ports are small. everything else is at reach. so if i decide to drop in the k04-20, do i need new lines? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (double0vr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *double0vr6* »_well i have on the there now some sumitomos tire that are kinda stick-e 160 tread wear. cut 2.1 with them. And there 225-50-16 on a stock gli steele. would u say that slick is about that size! i dont know.

just an FYI tread wear is not standard through various companies. my azenis are 200 and i promise they are stickier than you tires. not talking crap or anything just a fact that few people know.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I wish someone made a better exhaust manifold for this setup.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

SOmeone does make a better exhaust manifold for this set up. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif This will be my next mod for the k04-20. Here is the link. It is the one at the botttom of the link and cost $499.00 . http://www.dnperformance.com/audivw.html 


















_Modified by 01gtiaww at 6:25 AM 4-11-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Never knew that existed... How the f do you get the turbo bolt in though?


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_SOmeone does make a better exhaust manifold for this set up. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif This will be my next mod for the k04-20. Here is the link. It is the one at the botttom of the link and cost $499.00 . http://www.dnperformance.com/audivw.html 

















_Modified by 01gtiaww at 6:25 AM 4-11-2007_

there is a guy in greece that makes similar manifolds to these...I have in on my CPU @ home...I can post later


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

Thanks for the bits of advice. I will be using a lift so I hope it makes my task a bit easier







If I run into problems Ill call Shawn and post up here.
Oh and I installed my Neuspeed 28mm rear bar tonight..Its niceeee
hopefully i can keep the rearend on the road. I did complete rear brakes and the rear sway in 2 hours. Hopefully I can make good time on the turbo.
Derek


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (loudgli)*

Just thought of something.
Am I gonna have to drain all the oil to do the new oil line?
Guess Ill have to pick some up if thats the case.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
there is a guy in greece that makes similar manifolds to these...I have in on my CPU @ home...I can post later

RTS mani is what you are referring to, and it can be purchased thru your GIAC dealer. I am not sure if you need the SW to purchase the mani, so best bet is to call and ask http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

RTS Mani??? What's that?
Loud - You'll definitely need to do basically an oil change and you'll also lose a lot of coolant. Pick both up. A lift isn't going to help much. Trust me when I say I had my car on stands and more often then not I would have rather it been lower. I spent very little time underneath - probably like 80/20 (above/under).


----------



## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

ok, so i suck at drag racing, but had a pretty fun night. Best time was a 14.3 and ran 99mph on each of my 4 runs. My 2.8, 2.7. 2.5 and 2.3 60ft times are mostly to blame for the lousy times. I ran 103mph on both runs last time I was at the track, so something is up. After two runs I decided to swap out the stock n75 and put the j valve in. I knew i'd have a higher spike and probably more traction issues, but i also figured I'd run a higher trap speed, ran 99mph also. Does the n75 need time to adapt? 
Another change from last time is that i was too lazy to take out the spare tire and rear seats, mainly because i have to undue my amp wiring. Could these extra ~175 lbs be why my trap speeds were down? probably. 
The car runs perfectly fine, so nothing too apparent is wrong, going to have to run some logs. 
setup:
forge tt225 inlet hose
tt225 injectors
giac software
ghl 3" downpipe
milltek 2.5" cat back
eurojet street intercooler
ghl cold air intake
the 2.8 60ft was my first run, when i realized that the track had alot of traction for the amount of gas i gave it, zero wheelspin in 1st gear, haha. The 2.7 60 ft was the next run when i applied too much throttle in the significantly less sticky right lane. Aw well, i had fun and won 3 out of my 4 races, so not all was lost.


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

WTF!!! 2.8 i cant even do that.
3200-3500 let the clutch out SLOWLY and apply gas once your rolling.
thats horrible, and this is comming from a very consistant 2.2-2.3 60' driver
J valve huh, yea prob a bad idea you really dont need anymore TQ


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

when I first ran my car... did about the same, with 2.4 60' being my fastest... i did mainly 101-102 traps... at like 14.2


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (bmxp)*

<hangs head, shrugs>


----------



## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_WTF!!! 2.8 i cant even do that.


hahaha, 2.8 isn't really too hard to achieve when you bog as bad as i did off the line. 
sorry i let you down slojti, I just don't want to make you look bad and beat your times


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (quiksilverGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *quiksilverGTI* »_
hahaha, 2.8 isn't really too hard to achieve when you bog as bad as i did off the line. 
sorry i let you down slojti, I just don't want to make you look bad and beat your times









oh ok bogging is fixable, i did it once or twice before.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (quiksilverGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *quiksilverGTI* »_sorry i let you down slojti, I just don't want to make you look bad and beat your times









I wish someone would....I put that post out there a couple days back to set a challenge for everyone who has this setup. I just wish someone would do it


----------



## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

this sounds easier: lets just swap front ends and screen names


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
I wish someone would....I put that post out there a couple days back to set a challenge for everyone who has this setup. I just wish someone would do it









as i got all my crap out of the car to trade it in i found my 13.9 105 slip







2.3 60' some slicks and you would have been done foo


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (quiksilverGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *quiksilverGTI* »_this sounds easier: lets just swap front ends and screen names 

How about this: you fly me to Florida and I'll make your car go 13.5 or better


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_
as i got all my crap out of the car to trade it in i found my 13.9 105 slip







2.3 60' some slicks and you would have been done foo









traps speeds decrease with lower 60' times...in my estimate, you would have gone [email protected] with slicks and a 1.8x 60ft







Haha, I actually have no idea








was that run on pump gas?


----------



## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
How about this: you fly me to Florida and I'll make your car go 13.5 or better









ok, but you pay the extra charges for taking a set of slicks with you on the plane


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (quiksilverGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *quiksilverGTI* »_
ok, but you pay the extra charges for taking a set of slicks with you on the plane









You have a deal http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## [email protected] (Mar 18, 2006)

Here is a dyno run of Skoda Octavia 1.8T with K04-023 ,380cc inj ,TT225 maf housing ,TT225 exhaust manifold and Unitronic specific software!


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Apparently Unitronic FTW? 256whp... wonder what wtq?


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (LoxiaS)*


_Quote, originally posted by *LoxiaS* »_Here is a dyno run of Skoda Octavia 1.8T with K04-023 ,380cc inj ,TT225 maf housing ,TT225 exhaust manifold and Unitronic specific software!









afr looks a bit aggressive...


----------



## [email protected] (Mar 18, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Apparently Unitronic FTW? 256whp... wonder what wtq?


316.9 ft/lb


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_when I first ran my car... did about the same, with 2.4 60' being my fastest... i did mainly 101-102 traps... at like 14.2


Man I figures these ko4-20 would do a lil more.
I have the ko4-001 maken about 225-230 on pump. When i run the car at the track i would trap 100-101 with low 14.2-14.3
I added the meth kit and ran the wrong nossle and was running rich and i pulled of a [email protected] orther runs were [email protected] 102's all with 2.1-2.2 60"
Now I have the rite nossle in and got it dyno tuned. I made 239whp and 303wtq.
Now I know the k04-20 can do much more and you guys are prob running on pump gas at the track. But i would think the ko4-20 would trap a 104 on pump gas.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I very much so expect to trap around 102-103 w/a 6spd. I'll let you know if the track is open this weekend... it's supposed to rain







. This is opening weekend, too. We'll see?


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (double0vr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *double0vr6* »_
Now I know the k04-20 can do much more and you guys are prob running on pump gas at the track. But i would think the ko4-20 would trap a 104 on pump gas.


THer have been a few guys that have trapped 104/105. Like I said before... the first time I ran this setup... I've only ran it once b/c I don't have the time to drive 40 min to the track. And my schedule conflicts with the days they run open test and tunes... I'm sure now that I got all the bugs out I can run around there... I ran it when I first got everything on. I was on 92oct and was running pig rich b/c my dp broke so my 02 sensors weren't reading ****... And you have to read my 60' times too... fastest was a 2.4 so that hurts the 1/4 mile time and mph


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_I very much so expect to trap around 102-103 w/a 6spd. I'll let you know if the track is open this weekend... it's supposed to rain







. This is opening weekend, too. We'll see?

u better do 103


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (double0vr6)*

I trapped 104 this past weekend with a 14.0 et and awful 2.5 60'








and that was definitely not a solid run. I spun all of first and most of second. I was expecting like a 14.6 et and was surprised when i got my slip.
still learning. 
oh yeah, that was with a heavy 1/2+ tank of gas with 5 gallons 93 and 1 3/4 gallons of 100 oct.










_Modified by nuther337 at 2:14 PM 4-12-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

an aftermnarket exhaust mani has already been proven not to do a dam thing on this setup


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Well, for $500 I won't check it. If there was a cheaper one (say $350), I'd probably do it. What is the RTS one? Is that an exhaust mani then?


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

rts is close to a grand last time i checked and it does not work with the PI uppipe, and you need giac sw just to purchase it


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Wow... that's weak sauce. A grand. I'd never touch that thing. That makes the DNP one for $500 look cheap. I need to get someone to make me one. I'm sure it would help somewhat...


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

dnp uses cheap material that WILL crack, theres no stress and pressure points
pro imports already did the research and devoloped a few manifolds and they al showed to provide no ghains
i dunno how many times i gotta say it but this ko420 doesnt flow enough to need a better mani, the TT mani flows way more than a k0420 can flow. why do you think the apr stage 3 mani looks similar to the k0420 mani!!!!!!


_Modified by 200320thAE2632 at 1:31 PM 4-12-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

I dont think that the APR stg3 mani looks anything like it? I mean... the manifold has small ports and then they narrow all the way as the mani starts to lift. Also, I have a bunch of DSM friends w/DNP manis and no issues?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Slo,
What did you have in your car when you ran your time? How much of your interior and what not?


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
i dunno how many times i gotta say it but this ko420 doesnt flow enough to need a better mani, the TT mani flows way more than a k0420 can flow. *why do you think the apr stage 3 mani looks similar to the k0420 mani!!!!!!*

_Modified by 200320thAE2632 at 1:31 PM 4-12-2007_

because it's a decent/good design...that's why...in actuality you'd have better flow/distribution if the runners were a little more equal length then they are on both the mani's you are referring to!


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

full new ecs t-belt kit. 190 shipped
oh wrong place...


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

no the apr mani flows and resembles the runner design of the tt manifold, anyone can see that, bit whatever, waste money on a manifold, just remember i told ya so!


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

I don't see how the k04-020 manifold is much different than a k03s mani - I mean I guess the runners are longer b/c of the angle thing. But, Eurotuner did a dyno and said that an ATP (I think it was their mani at least) manifold on a k03s w/a chip makes another like 3-5whp and about the same in tq. I mean, I guess that's pretty insignificant over all... but I don't know. They seem to be similar in design. The only thing I thought seemed similar in design w/APR and the 020 manifold was that they both had longer runners than the k03s manifold and had webbing. 
Why does this turbo only make a little bit more hp. We're talking ...
1.5" ID inlet vs. 1.75" ID inlet = Volumetrically speaking we're like... 1.77"^3 vs. 2.81"^3 which is like almost a 40% increase. I mean, I'm not really sure what that really means in terms of turbo efficiency or anything - I mean I'm sure there's like 1000 other variable w/different wheels and such, but I would suspect if I got a turbo that was 40% larger in inlet volume (only thing considered) that there would be a little bit more to gain? Although, I guess with that logic the next turbo - if gaining 40% volume by inlet diameter - would be like a 2.1" inlet. So I don't really think there is much validity in that process. Are there any graphs (I guess some sort of map?) for this turbo? I mean... what are the REAL numbers it could make?


_Modified by 04VDubGLI at 7:44 AM 4-13-2007_


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

The only reason that this turbo makes from 230whp-260whp on 93oct. is due to the tune on REVO and GIAC k04-20 programing. ANything more aggresive than what they come with can snap a rod. This turbo produces lots of torque quick and will bend a rod quickly. That is why the tunes on the k04-20 chips are more conservative. If you upgrade rods and pistons than it is another ball game. On another note it seems to me that the 5 speed GTI's make better track times than the 6 speed GLI's or 20AE's. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:54 AM 4-13-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

5spds FTW in 1/4. That's a fact







. When I ran a 14.4 w/my k03s I'm pretty sure if I were in a 5spd I'd be closer to 14.0 or maybe even 13s. It legitimately seems to be a good few 10ths difference. 
Honestly, I think how the Revo tune is setup it could make more power. I've very much so considered putting a MBC on mine to try to move the curve around - However, Val (18T_BT) makes a good point that I should probably figure out what my car is doing now before I go changing it. Val helped me log not too long ago. It runs just about perfect from Revo w/no playing. The AFR is ... -1.1% if I recall correctly. On 93oct (Get-Go, ugh) I was just pulling a hair over what I would like @ timing 3 (SPS3). And all of the boost levels seemed to match up w/the requested and received. I'm not sure where to even start to try to squeeze power from it. I guess I'm going to need to dyno sooner than later and see what it's doing. I really need a Vag-Cable though... and a licensed version.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

You can make more power by adding water/meth to your setup. You will need to adjust ur timing and if you want you can up the boost, but like i said with all the quick torque this turbo produces you have to stay conservative unless you want to snap a rod. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif water/meth+ 100 oct would get you right at about 300whp or a tad bit over. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Hope to see you guys at WATERFEST so we can DYNO and test on the track! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:12 AM 4-13-2007_


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_You can make more power by adding water/meth to your setup. You will need to adjust ur timing and if you want you can up the boost, but like i said with all the quick torque this turbo produces you have to stay conservative unless you want to snap a rod. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif water/meth+ 100 oct would get you right at about 300whp or a tad bit over. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Hope to see you guys at WATERFEST so we can DYNO and test on the track! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:12 AM 4-13-2007_

how do you know it'll get 300whp? he shouldn't have rod snapping issues ass REVO controls the boost spike severely (like ~10psi until 3500rpm) and then it goes up to 23-24psi and slowly climbs back down...his fuel trims were within -1 on both long and short term...AFR's were pretty decent (a REVO trait on all their files)...
I don't think PrP is going to be open this weekend trevor http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

I'm just going by what pro-imports shop car made. All their dynos are on their website. Their car made 296 whp on 100oct and water/meth. I will be on water/meth and 100 oct at waterfest so we will see what it does. We'll all see how accurate those ProImport numbers really are. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:27 AM 4-13-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:35 AM 4-13-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

I'm super upset about this weather. I was ready to run my car. This means that the 18s will be on when I finally do get to run. At that point I'm guessing high 13s will be if I get a good launch. No chance @ better I'd say.
Yeah. I'd say my boost is more or less... 2200-3500 10psi, then 3500-6000 20-22psi, and then 6000-7000 16-17psi. I think that's pretty accurate? I'm not at all concerned about snapping a rod, to be honest. If I hit a spike of 25psi @ 3000 I would be b/c that'd be mad tq, but currently, no worries @ all. Which leaves me to actually want to move some tq down a bit. I need a dyno!!


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (nuther337)*

The higher yur 60' and the more you sing the higher yur trap will be.


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_We'll all see how accurate those ProImport numbers really are. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


you mean we will see how good your meth tune is.







cuz its not super easy.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_
you mean we will see how good your meth tune is.







cuz its not super easy.

Lol. Yeah that too.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_I'm just going by what pro-imports shop car made. All their dynos are on their website. Their car made 296 whp on 100oct and water/meth. I will be on water/meth and 100 oct at waterfest so we will see what it does. We'll all see how accurate those ProImport numbers really are. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:27 AM 4-13-2007_

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:35 AM 4-13-2007_

I'm pretty sure PI made 296whp w/a FMIC sprayer, not meth. I could be wrong, but that was always my impression? If they're dynos are accurate I should throw down 240whp as I sit currently and 300whp on 100oct


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_I'm just going by what pro-imports shop car made. All their dynos are on their website. Their car made 296 whp on 100oct and water/meth. I will be on water/meth and 100 oct at waterfest so we will see what it does. We'll all see how accurate those ProImport numbers really are. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:27 AM 4-13-2007_

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:35 AM 4-13-2007_


there shop car was never on water/meth. i worked there, i should know!
the only thing they did was use c116 and sprayed c02 on IC
my car never had that 10psi or so then jump to 22-24, it was as smooth as a k03 i had. there SW is not tuned like that.....


_Modified by 200320thAE2632 at 12:07 AM 4-14-2007_


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

So what would produce more power? the 100oct with IC sprayer, or 100oct with water/meth?


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
my car never had that 10psi or so then jump to 22-24, it was as smooth as a k03 i had. there SW is not tuned like that.....

_Modified by 200320thAE2632 at 12:07 AM 4-14-2007_

I dunno.... but me and 04dubgli have th same thing


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

anyone else running this kit with Revo BT. i dont think pro imports make a file for the AWD. im ordering REVO bt this week and also a 4 bar. I should b good to go no?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

Got a 440cc file, I take it? You're probably going to want to tune it back - it'd be close to a gt28r file though.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Mine is definitely setup like a 2 stage. Like... there's no doubting it. In fact, Pat told me that it was designed like that so I wouldn't have to worry about tq spiking and tossing a rod or something. I'd honestly have no real concern about running 100oct as it sits b/c of that fact alone.
I would like to put my MBC in so that i can make the change less extreme - I kid you not on that.


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

the file im getting is for the gt28r 440cc and 3" maf
whats the difference btw this file and the file for the gt28rs? larger injectors?580cc???


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

Honestly, I could be wrong when I say this, but you'll probably have to tune it back. I'm guessing that w/everything - w/load and spool up esp - that it'll be a bit off and probably boosting a bit high for the k04. Hopefully you have a vag cable? You may end up w/a scenario where you do like 17-18psi the whole way through the RPM range. I would bet that gt28r file could make the most hp on one of these turbos, but that it'll take some fooling around.


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Honestly, I could be wrong when I say this, but you'll probably have to tune it back. I'm guessing that w/everything - w/load and spool up esp - that it'll be a bit off and probably boosting a bit high for the k04. Hopefully you have a vag cable? You may end up w/a scenario where you do like 17-18psi the whole way through the RPM range. I would bet that gt28r file could make the most hp on one of these turbos, but that it'll take some fooling around. 

i hope not...i guess i'll only know when i put it in
Can anyone else help me out here?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Well, I'm going to try and setup a dyno for next week. If I could get say $30 then I'll be good to go. Anyone wanna throw $10 my way? Only would need 3 people? I'll get a video and a chart if I can get everything together.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_the file im getting is for the gt28r 440cc and 3" maf
whats the difference btw this file and the file for the gt28rs? larger injectors?580cc???

I believe bout 2 or 3 years ago someone made 250whp/305 whtrq on the k04-20. He was using the Revo Stag3 gt28R file. He has his dyno posted up somewhere on the vortex. His screen name i think was dubaddicted or something like that. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 2:20 PM 4-14-2007_


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

i'll b getting my software this week and there is a dyno day on the 29th so i'll b making an apperance there. so stay tuned for dyno charts


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

Here is the old thread on that k04-20 with the gt28r file.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2226092


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

yea he was the innovater, ive had many convo's with him back in 03/4
sucks he parted and sold the car


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Mine is definitely setup like a 2 stage. Like... there's no doubting it. In fact, Pat told me that it was designed like that so I wouldn't have to worry about tq spiking and tossing a rod or something. I'd honestly have no real concern about running 100oct as it sits b/c of that fact alone.
I would like to put my MBC in so that i can make the change less extreme - I kid you not on that.


crank the wastegat half a turn, sometimes the 22-23 turbos didnt come with the wastegate set right with the correct preset


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

My wastegate is tightened about a turn to 1.5turns currently. I did it before I even put the turbo on the car.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

So then maybe you should turn it back to where it was originally and try that. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif My wastegate rod is also tightened about .5-1 turn towards the wastegate. I spike at 21 and hold 18. No surging. This is with the J valve. I DO NOT have the OVERboost kit on anymore but I am about to put it back in MBC mode. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_Here is the old thread on that k04-20 with the gt28r file.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2226092

Thanks bud http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

In preparation for my install tomorrow I changed out the timing belt today. What a pain in the Arse. That stupid motor mount ..GOD!! ha anway. Did some removing of stock smic parts. Test fit some of the intercooler pipes. Hacked up the rebar to make the intercooler sit right.
Couple of questions mainly concerning the intercooler-
How do I adapt the map sensor to the hose on the inlet pipe side on the atp setups? There is just an oversized short section of hose? I know some cars had different size map sensors. my sensor looks like its no bigger than 3/8" inch large and the hose is probably 3/4" ID
Do I need a reducer coupling for the turbo outlet pipe to mate up with the custom pipe for the k04. The pipe I got from shawn is larger than the turbo out flange? 
Thanks for the help guys.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

I still don't think there's anything wrong w/how it's performing. I think Pat @ PI would have sh*t if I told him it was doing that and it wasn't supposed to. Maybe they changed the nature of the file? Anyone have a vid of the boost? I'll try to get another. I can tell you that under load it shoots up to like 17psi and then it's like "OH ISH!" and drops back down and holds there til it hits 3500-3700 and then it's like "Ok, LET'S DO IT!" and spikes up to above 20 and usually holds like 22 and then drops to like 20 around 5500 then slowly decreases to like 16-17psi by redline.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_I still don't think there's anything wrong w/how it's performing. I think Pat @ PI would have sh*t if I told him it was doing that and it wasn't supposed to. Maybe they changed the nature of the file? Anyone have a vid of the boost? I'll try to get another. I can tell you that under load it shoots up to like 17psi and then it's like "OH ISH!" and drops back down and holds there til it hits 3500-3700 and then it's like "Ok, LET'S DO IT!" and spikes up to above 20 and usually holds like 22 and then drops to like 20 around 5500 then slowly decreases to like 16-17psi by redline.

http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif Revo ftl


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

yea thats not good


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

My REVO does not do that, It only had a really high spike when i had the race valve in there. I just spike 21 and hold 18 nothing more, nothing less. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_My REVO does not do that, It only had a really high spike when i had the race valve in there. I just spike 21 and hold 18 nothing more, nothing less. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

WHen does the 18 come around at? Past 6k?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (sh{}e)*

I would have to say before 6k maybe 5500? I have never really looked cause my eyes are usually on the road and on my side pillar boost gauge. All i know, is that if i step on it, it will quickly go up to 21, hold for a sec ,then it tapers down to 18 and stays there. Could the OVERBOOST solution kit have something to do with this or my J valve? Should I install the OVERBOOST kit in MBC mode? I mean, it feels pretty solid. I'm just worried that these guys are spiking higher. What boost are you k04-20 guys holding? Does the ECU code have to do anything with this. I have an AWW and most of the k04/20 users have AWP or GLI/20thae's.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Ha ha... I'm going to call PI and ask again about my boosting. They definitely seemed to think the 2 stage is fine. 
Ah... mine definitely holds 20-22 depending on the gear and taper to around 17 by redline


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

on race fuel i would spike 25 and hold about 22 till 7k(belive it or not)
pump i would spike 22 and hold 20 till 7k
when i add'd a mbc and took away the n75 i set it to 25 and it settled at 22 at 7k and that where i made my highest dyno numbers


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_on race fuel i would spike 25 and hold about 22 till 7k(belive it or not)
pump i would spike 22 and hold 20 till 7k
when i add'd a mbc and took away the n75 i set it to 25 and it settled at 22 at 7k and that where i made my highest dyno numbers

How would you know, you drive a Charger? Isn't there other forums for "those" cars?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

So maybe I SHOULD toss my MBC on? I wish you would offer some helpful insights on how to make my car run better...


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

fyi, you van expect my sig to include a k0420 mk2 1.8t soon








i miss the ko420 mk4, but dont miss the mk4 portion of the car lol


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
How would you know, you drive a Charger? Isn't there other forums for "those" cars?


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (beachball6)*

For those that are interested.
Installed everything on sunday as far as turbo & front mount and all additional items (maf, injectors and such)
Had to make up some new lines to adapt the n75 and dv to the TT inlet hose. I believe I have everything correct. Only line I capped is the hard nipple coming off the back of the valve cover on the drivers side. I believe the line coming from the ko3 went to this. 
Started the car tonight. NO LEAKS!! Everything seems to be working fine. I trimmed up the bumper some more to get it mounted. The intercooler pipe seems to be having clearance issues with the hood







Ive tried making adjustments. Have to fool with it later.
Took the car on a couple of test drives. Deffinately has potential. Boost flutters around like i expected. Whistles pretty good. Pulls pretty hard. Diffinately cant wait to get the software. Hopefully tomorrow or wednesday. Gonna drive the car to work tomorrow and see how it does.
pic just for reference..grille is off until hood fitment issues are resolved. Ill get an underhood picture soon.


----------



## MrcinaGTI (Oct 11, 2005)

*Re: (loudgli)*

^^ noice mang. Good to hear everything is ok. Once you get the software and have it all good and running strong, try to make few video clips.


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

what software you gonna use?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

$30 and there will be a dyno chart w/AFR up here by the end of the week... ANYONE?!!??!
paypal me!!! nike10622 (#r434) comcast.net.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i guess i should post mine now that i will never be under mk4 stock managment anymore, or in a mk4 for that matter....
mk2 8v x-flow k0420? hmmmm Megasqiurt what?


----------



## badbidet (Sep 13, 2005)

if I get a refund for m wiring harness, the money is yours. id like to see a dyno, lol 30 pages and not one dyno.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (badbidet)*

You will be my hero... if not everyone else's as well!! I will gaurentee a dyno by the end of this week as long as I can get money. I know $30 doesn't sound like a lot, but it'd make all of the difference!


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_what software you gonna use?

It will be GIAC. I already have X+ so it doesn't make sense not too.


----------



## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_
It will be GIAC. I already have X+ so it doesn't make sense not too.


Do they give sw discount if you already have x+???


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (sh{}e)*

So i installed my MBC inline with the J valve and i really dont like the feeling. I prefer the overboost configuration better than the MBC configuration inline with J valve or the J valve by itself. Should i just run the mBC by itself with the N75 electronically plugged in?


----------



## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (sh{}e)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sh{}e* »_
Do they give sw discount if you already have x+???

yep, i know tyrolsport gives you a full credit for the software thats already on there. I had x+ and it cost $200 to get the ko4-20 pump file on there.


----------



## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (quiksilverGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *quiksilverGTI* »_
yep, i know tyrolsport gives you a full credit for the software thats already on there. I had x+ and it cost $200 to get the ko4-20 pump file on there. 

Thats f***in great then lol. Glad I switched to X+ couple months back. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (sh{}e)*

Come on people. I know one of you k04-20 guys must be running, MBC, EBC. How do you set it up? inline with n75, n75 out of the loop but still plugged in electronically, overboost setup, or just n75?


----------



## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_Come on people. I know one of you k04-20 guys must be running, MBC, EBC. How do you set it up? inline with n75, n75 out of the loop but still plugged in electronically, overboost setup, or just n75?

I would run the with ebc and the n75 plugged in to keep the ecu happy. With mbc I would run it inline with the n75.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (sh{}e)*

BUMP TTT! Just cause i like seeing the k04-20 thread at the top.


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

i ran the mbc before the n75 and it worked ok. then the n75 never saw too much boost.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (beachball6)*

I haven't had a single boost issue... 
What reason would I have to toss a MBC in there? I mean, I guess I don't know if maybe anyone was having issues w/a limp mode or something, or if maybe it makes more power then... or?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I have no problems at all running just the J valve alone. I just have an overboost mbc in my garage and wanted to experiment with different options and configurations of the n75/mbc combo. 
The apr stg 3 guys have had great success running the MBC inline with the N75 valve. They just leave it electronically connected to keep the ecu happy. 
Today i experimented with the MBC inline with the n75 jvalve with 3 threads showing. Before with just the n75 valve, i would spike at 22 and taper off to 18. Now with this setup i spiked at 26-27







. If i recall correctly MR DODGE CHARGER k04-20 had a similar experience when he was doing his mbc testing. The boost needle just stood there, no limp mode, but it was just 26-27 lbs of HOTTTTTT AIR and the car was not even going no where














. I had the gas floored and was under full load. It felt like i was hauling 3000lbs of rocks in my trunck. I did a downshift to 4th from 5th about 5 times and it would hit 26-27 lbs of hott air. THIS congfiguration is no good with 3 threads of the boostvalve showing http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif . I have reduced boost and now have 7 threads showing. I want it to do the same thing but stay at 22-23 and hold from 17-18. I will test tomorrow with this configuration. This is being performed with the high pressure spring. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 6:56 PM 4-17-2007_

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 6:59 PM 4-17-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 7:08 PM 4-17-2007_


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (quiksilverGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *quiksilverGTI* »_
yep, i know tyrolsport gives you a full credit for the software thats already on there. I had x+ and it cost $200 to get the ko4-20 pump file on there. 

Yeah im paying $200. some shops charge a install few but my shop does not.
I went to get an upload tonight. I had some misfire faults that were stored from last night when I fired it up for whatever reason. He didn't want to load the software without knowing if the codes were still present. So we cleared them and if they dont reapear by tomorrow he would flash the car. Ill keep you updated.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (badbidet)*

any news on that harness refund? sorry to bug ya, just thinking about when I may be able to call and schedule a dyno.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_Come on people. I know one of you k04-20 guys must be running, MBC, EBC. How do you set it up? inline with n75, n75 out of the loop but still plugged in electronically, overboost setup, or just n75?

mbc mode with no n75, just plugged in electronic


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_ I have no problems at all running just the J valve alone. I just have an overboost mbc in my garage and wanted to experiment with different options and configurations of the n75/mbc combo. 
The apr stg 3 guys have had great success running the MBC inline with the N75 valve. They just leave it electronically connected to keep the ecu happy. 
Today i experimented with the MBC inline with the n75 jvalve with 3 threads showing. Before with just the n75 valve, i would spike at 22 and taper off to 18. Now with this setup i spiked at 26-27







. If i recall correctly MR DODGE CHARGER k04-20 had a similar experience when he was doing his mbc testing. The boost needle just stood there, no limp mode, but it was just 26-27 lbs of HOTTTTTT AIR and the car was not even going no where














. I had the gas floored and was under full load. It felt like i was hauling 3000lbs of rocks in my trunck. I did a downshift to 4th from 5th about 5 times and it would hit 26-27 lbs of hott air. THIS congfiguration is no good with 3 threads of the boostvalve showing http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif . I have reduced boost and now have 7 threads showing. I want it to do the same thing but stay at 22-23 and hold from 17-18. I will test tomorrow with this configuration. This is being performed with the high pressure spring. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 6:56 PM 4-17-2007_

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 6:59 PM 4-17-2007_

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 7:08 PM 4-17-2007_

mine did the same but at 27lbs my car was fast as crap, i mean really fast, it scared me it was that fast, almost like if i kept it like that i woulda blown it up, crazy ass TQ.
i think ball and spring MBCs dont like to be inline when in conjunction with a n75
with no n75 and just in MBC mode i had great boost control, just crappy part throttle
with my mbc after the n75(n75 in normal position but with the mbc on the wastegate line) it was great all around when set to 25psi but in mbc mode only it felt the most powerfull http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
with my mbc after the n75(n75 in normal position but with the mbc on the wastegate line) it was great all around when set to 25psi but in mbc mode only it felt the most powerfull http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

This is exactly how i am running it. I did some adjusting and testing and I love it this way. I have 7 threads showing on my MBC and it is set to 25. Feels really nice and my stock like driveability did not even suffer. I am running it with my 3 bar in there. SHould i throw back in my 4 bar.? I was sceptical at first about the on and off feeling, but i dont have that. SMooth as butter. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Can we get a diagram, please? And Lemmiwinks tuning help?


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

its simple, install the n75 normally and find the wastegate line, and install the mbc on that line....done!
if your on white tops then run a 3 bar, if your on tt injectors then run the 4 bar


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Can we get a diagram, please? And Lemmiwinks tuning help?

http://www.boostvalve.com/1.8.html There is the diagram. Their are many combinations you can try.
1. overboost combo= can't raise boost, just set limit of what ecu is programed to
2. MBC with N75 out of the loop= MBC controlling boost. on/off feeling
3. MBC Inline with n75= n75 only electronically plugged to keep ecu happy and retain stock drivability. 7 threads showing. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif (charge pipe hose )
4. MBC mode from wastegate hose????
I have tried options 1 and 3. 1 was good but i could not up the boost just reach what program was set too. I would hit 18 and hold 18. no spikes
I am on option 3 and will be keeping this option for now.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

fyi, overboost never did jack for me, it never limited or anything, it overboosted in overboost mode actually, it doesnt work for everyone!
setp 3 you have is wrong, inline= mbc before the n75(n75 in normal position)


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Ok, so I'm going to take the line that connects to the upper charge pipe, cut it, and then insert my MBC into the gap. That's it?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_its simple, install the n75 normally and find the wastegate line, and install the mbc on that line....done!
if your on white tops then run a 3 bar, if your on tt injectors then run the 4 bar

WHy did you hook it up to the wastegate line, the diagram shows it is connected to the charge pipe line. And i am on tt injectors so i will be throwing the 4 bar back in.
http://www.boostvalve.com/1.8.html there is the diagram.



_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:22 PM 4-18-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Ok, so I'm going to take the line that connects to the upper charge pipe, cut it, and then insert my MBC into the gap. That's it?


you will not like this, you will get a on off feeling....


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_
WHy did you hook it up to the wastegate line, the diagram shows it is connected to the charge pipe line. And i am on tt injectors so i will be throwing the 4 bar back in.
http://www.boostvalve.com/1.8.html there is the diagram.
_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:22 PM 4-18-2007_


read what i wrote above, its just another way of using a MBC, i am not talking about how boost valve does it, none of thee way boostvalve explains works well in my opinion


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

So you're saying put it inline w/the WG itself? So the WG sees less vac? I'm kind of lost.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

a college student cant figure this out?


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Apparently my car = the suck. I don't hold 20psi to redline. Hell, I only hold 16-17. And I don't hit 20 in the first place til 4000rpms. Ugh


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Be4 the MBC, i would spike only to 21 and hold 18 straight through. Each car will react differantly with differant setups. I have an AWW engine code and i believe that is why i have success with what others do not. The differant configurations that MR. Dodge Charger tried out DID NOT work for him but did WORK for me. I have an overboost MBC and that is why i do it like they state on their web site. Their MBC is ball and spring but it also has a timy bleeder hole so it is like a hybrid MBC







working as a ball and spring. You really have to take the time to test differant MBC configurations and see what you like and works best for your particular car. I mean their are 4 differant ways so you have to test all 4. Most of you guys on this thread with this setup have 20thAE/337 or GLI's so what works on my AWW will not work on the later edition cars. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 10:12 AM 4-19-2007_


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

the boostvalve specifically states on their site that it's not a bleeder valve :ROFL: 


_Quote, originally posted by *boostvalve.com* »_The Boostvalve turbo boost controller is an adjustable pressure relief valve or "check valve". Some may call this a "gated valve", but be certain it is NOT a "bleeder valve".

http://www.boostvalve.com/infofaq.html
FYI...it has nothing to do tiwh 337/20th/GLI/AWW/AWD...what you guys are trying to do is limit boost levels as your SW allows for much higher then you really want to drive on a daily basis (04GLIDBUB excluded, as he found out his SW isn't performing correctly, we'll find out why shortly) ALL OF THESE SET UPS if you want to control it from spiking, SHOULD BE RUN in what the boostvalve calls OVERBOOST mode and since your SW can request more boost then you need the last paragraph here doesn't affect you guys: http://www.boostvalve.com/1.8info.html


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

If it has nothing to do with the engine code why is it that the MBC configurations that MR. Dodge Charger tried on his setup did not work on his car and worked on mine? We have the same set up ,same SW same n75. Only differance between his car and mine is that he had a 20thae and i have an AWW. Overboost setup worked perfect on my car and did nothing for him. I mean could it be because he did not use a boostvalve MBC and used another MBC? 

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 10:25 AM 4-19-2007_

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 10:29 AM 4-19-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 10:30 AM 4-19-2007_


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_If it has nothing to do with the engine code why is it that the MBC configurations that MR. Dodge Charger tried on his setup did not work on his car and worked on mine? We have the same set up ,same SW same n75. Only differance between his car and mine is that he had a 20thae and i have an AWW. Overboost setup worked perfect on my car and did nothing for him. I mean could it be because he did not use a boostvalve MBC and used another MBC? 


are you sure he set it up exactly like you had it, not counting the fact that you used different bleeder valves (also shouldn't affect it a whole lot) which is assuming both of you used bleeder valves and not just ball and spring valves


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
are you sure he set it up exactly like you had it, not counting the fact that you used different bleeder valves (also shouldn't affect it a whole lot) which is assuming both of you used bleeder valves and not just ball and spring valves

Yeah! I mean i even sent him up close pictures of my overboost setup and posted them on the earlier pages of this thread so he could look and do it like i had it. PAge 3 and 4 are full of pictures of my setup just for referance.


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 11:14 AM 4-19-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

all ball and spring MBCs have bleeder holes on them, they have to in order to work properly
my friend has a aww and had trouble with other mbc setups as well as i did, all cars are diff and react diff.
i had a boostvalve MBC as well and had their actual OB setup and it didnt work for crap.
a boostvalve mbc is a normal ordinary mbc fyi, nothing special just a regular ball and spring unit http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

loudgli, get chipped yet? if so when can i get some #' tack to dyno. pm me if you feel they arent worthy. i know i had 5psi hidden with lose mani bolts.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Oh... so my car is still sucking. I did the vac delete that PI suggested and nothing changed. I actually found out that there was some sort of valve thing inline w/my n75, so I thought maybe that was it, but apparently the valve was setup so that it just couldnt had negative feedback because that did absolutely nothing...
So, I think maybe I have SW issue. I'm still doing the 10psi until like 4000rpms thing and then going up to like 20-22psi until like 5500 then down to like 16psi to redline. It = the suck.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

bring the car to me, leave it with me for a few hours and ill work my magic for 100 bux!


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

TTT! BUMP since today is 4/20.


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## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_TTT! BUMP since today is 4/20.










I am also enjoying 4/20











_Modified by 1.8 Neckbreaka at 3:46 PM 4-20-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I just got my 18s on... rolling 245/40/18s FTW. Car already feels slower though








Maybe my 60' will get better w/those beasts on.


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_loudgli, get chipped yet? if so when can i get some #' tack to dyno. pm me if you feel they arent worthy. i know i had 5psi hidden with lose mani bolts.

YES FINALLY today, I got the car running well. Flashed it wednesday, ran horrible in boost. Shop did some diag, found bad MAF. I had got a used one off the vortex. seller has worked me a refund. Picked up new MAF last night. Dropped off and installed at the shop this morning. Fixed it right up.
Wow car runs strong..little hesitation up top. I think im making toooo much boost. Need to change guages but im guessing im making atleast 24psi







my dv I believe needs a stronger spring. Its "tat tat tat" on boost release. I may try my N75 j valve soon also to see if it smooth the boost out. I dunno if im gonna be able to dyno anytime soon or not. Its not a big priority for me right now. We are planning a dragstrip run in May. My driving skills are amateur but we will see what happens.
On a side note after all this. Driving home tonight..power steering goes out, battery light comes on..DAMMIT I locked the belt tensioner up and it kicked the belt. Luckily since no dealer was open, I ran over to the NAPA warehouse and they had a listing for it and one in stock.







Back over to the car on the side of the freeway. 30 minutes new tensioner and belt go on. Down the road I go http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (loudgli)*

Another thing. Anyone ever scene P1118 o2 open circuit fault? Im probably just gonna change out th o2's. One has 80k the other 30k. Figure they are about do anyway.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_
I may try my N75 j valve soon also to see if it smooth the boost out. 



Just remember that when you install the J valve that it takes at least 3 full drive cycles for the computer to adapt. You should also reset ecu when putting in a n75 or messing with any electrical components that require plugging and unplugging. Most people put the J valve or any other valve in and then say they did not feel anything. The reason they aint feel anything is cause they did not let the computer adapt. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_
Just remember that when you install the J valve that it takes at least 3 full drive cycles for the computer to adapt. You should also reset ecu when putting in a n75 or messing with any electrical components that require plugging and unplugging. Most people put the J valve or any other valve in and then say they did not feel anything. The reason they aint feel anything is cause they did not let the computer adapt. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

I appreciate the heads up. I do plenty of driving so I usually put plenty of miles on each mod before I make conclusions.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

on/off duty cycle is key here, not just miles of driving....


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

bad maf?? wierd, the one i gave you i was using w/o issue. the senors are just 1.8T its the maf size that changes.


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_bad maf?? wierd, the one i gave you i was using w/o issue. the senors are just 1.8T its the maf size that changes.

I didn't use your maf. Giac required a TT maf. I had got one of the tex and it was bad. New one fixed it right up.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (loudgli)*

Are the VR6 MAF and TT maf not the same? They are both 2.75 ID and 3.00 OD. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

i thought they were.


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (beachball6)*

I was told that the actual sensor within the MAF housing is different.


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (nuther337)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nuther337* »_I was told that the actual sensor within the MAF housing is different.

I was told that also


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: The Official Ko4-02x thread (MrcinaGTI)*

Yo.
I posted this in the 1.8T forum but I fear nobody but a TT owner will know the answer..
I have a TT225 turbo setup and I recently installed a PCV hose from a TT225 to replace the equiv. hose on my GTI and to hopefully fit better with the TT225 TIP. I figured if the TT has this setup, it must fit better with the TT turbo setup.
It fits, but the valve cover on the GTI has a much larger port on it. Even with a plastic coupler of the correct diameter in place of the metal port, it seemed a little difficult to get the PCV hose to sit right. In the end everything works perfectly but it seems like it's sitting really high and far too close to the TIP. There is some sort of sensor right under the port (VVT?) that isn't helping matters.
To make a long story short, here are the pics, does anyone have any ideas as to how it can be made to fit better?



Does the TT225 have a different valve cover with the slightly smaller PCV port that is maybe in a slightly different position? Anyone got any pics of how it's supposed to look? I had trouble finding any. Are there two versions of the push-down coil transverse 1.8T valve cover, one of which has a smaller PCV port? Maybe that's the valve cover I need. This is the port I took off my current valve cover:

Oops I got a ticket.








The side that slips into the valve cover is the correct size for the TT PCV hose. Funny thing is that the side nipple is totally blocked off when a hose is clamped on, so I have no idea what it's supposed to be for but it seems useless.
I did get the TT225 secondary air setup to work, though it looks a little funny because the throttle body isn't in front of it (I want to keep it on the passenger side for a shorter charge path), so the combi-valve is much more prominent (makes it easy to service) - I have to find a vacuum line for it that doesn't point up like it does now...
I really like to use either stock spec parts -or- stock parts, as much as possible anyway. I.e., aftermarket parts should be stock design or else I would prefer to use stock parts from another VAG car. I don't like the idea of using universal parts like catch cans, if it can be helped. I have no problem taking a part from another VAG car and adapting it like this, and I know sometimes it takes more than just the one part to make it all fit.
I want to at least try to get this to fit cause that's the whole point of why I bought it. I know I could just buy a regular Y hose, but that would be no fun and it would defeat the purpose. If I have to swap valve covers then that's ok with me. I just need to know what to look for.










_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 6:39 PM 4-22-2007_


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_Are the VR6 MAF and TT maf not the same? They are both 2.75 ID and 3.00 OD. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

According to GIAC they have different sensors in them.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_
According to GIAC they have different sensors in them. 


Maybe you should just get a MOFO/BAMM from 
http://www.modshack.info/bamm.htm That is what i am planning on getting and scratching the MAF. But ill still need the sensor. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_

Maybe you should just get a MOFO/BAMM from 
http://www.modshack.info/bamm.htm That is what i am planning on getting and scratching the MAF. But ill still need the sensor. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Has anyone run that for our setups?
Finally got the car cleaned up a bit. Not too bad for a 80k mile DD







Next mod is ridding my self of these garbage headlights I built.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_
Has anyone run that for our setups?

Not that I know of but, I will be trying it out soon. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
And here are some pics of my car 99,000 daily driver! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

























_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:23 PM 4-22-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:31 PM 4-22-2007_


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

The center hatch wing looks like a car accident from the angle you shot it at from behind. It took me a while to figure out what it was.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_According to GIAC they have different sensors in them. 

there are like 7 different 1.8T sensors for the different models


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_
According to GIAC they have different sensors in them. 

This is true http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

So if there are so many sensors, which would be the best one to use with the k04-20? Would the logical choice be the audi TT 225 MAF and sensor, or do they all do basically the same thing? I have noticed that when i come to a red light my idle dips a little then corrects itself. Is this normal or does this have to do with the MAF? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

theyll all produce the same thing generally. just just are able to log more things than others for example. some mesure higher than others


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_theyll all produce the same thing generally. just just are able to log more things than others for example. some mesure higher than others

yes, generally all MAF sensors have the same function...














and yes, certain ones do read higher and more accurately at those elevated G/S readings vs. a stock 1.8T sensor? (think of it this way 180hp sensor and a 225hp sensor)

_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_So if there are so many sensors, which would be the best one to use with the k04-20? Would the logical choice be the audi TT 225 MAF and sensor, or do they all do basically the same thing? I have noticed that when i come to a red light my idle dips a little then corrects itself. Is this normal or does this have to do with the MAF? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

you should always use the sensor that the SW was tuned for/on...I am pretty sure GIAC uses the TT225 sensor itself...not sure what revo does...etc etc


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

Revo uses the TT225 MAF.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (nuther337)*

Pro-Imports told me to run the stock MAF sensor. So... I'm not sure where you got your SW from. To my knowledge only GIAC uses the TT MAF sensor, and even their SW will work w/the stock sensor from what I understand (just not optimized?). However, maybe that's why my car runs so poorly?


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

If you paid full price for your kit, you'd better call Pro-Imports for your TT225 MAF sensor as it is part of the kit. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I was also told face to face by Pat @ PI that the Revo SW was written on/for the tt225 MAF sensor.


_Modified by nuther337 at 2:32 PM 4-23-2007_


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (nuther337)*

The MAF on Pro Imports kit is def. not a stock MAF. It is either a vr6 or audi TT mAF. According to my part number on my MAF it is an audi tt 225 MAF. I bought the kit brand new. I know on the old Pro Imports site all the components were listed but their new site sucks big time. Whoever did it stole their money cause you can't even browse through their products anymore. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

yes revo is written for a 225 stock tt maf! pat knows this, i am not sure why he would tell you its meant for the stock one?! hahah well actually i know why...


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

04vdubGLI: if you have the stock maf in there now you know why your car is running not the way it should. And isnt the stock MAF to small for the TT TIP anyways? It wont fit snug like it should.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

MAF housing and MAF sensor are two different things. I have a TT MAF housing w/a stock AWP sensor.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

This is basically what my car does for boost. 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GwKm74v42Ic
Fill in the blanks... but this is basically it. It falls off a little more @ the top I'd say.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

even if you had the right maf, it wont fix your issue


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

looks like it runs ok to me.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_looks like it runs ok to me.

did you not see the hesitation in boost? regaurdless what people think or say its not supposed to be doing this. when nick from revo would come down to tune PI's shop car and tune my car with stage 2 SW we would chit chat alot and this is def not soppsed to happen. mine didint, PI's shop car didnt, and all the local k0420 kits did not that where on revo


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

I thought Revo was suppost to use the 3" maf housing??? not the housing and the TT sensor itself...


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (bmxp)*

yes tt 2.75, not 3 inch


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (bmxp)*

my revo did that i talked to dan and he said it was normal and to log requested vs actual but i was unable to with shareware vag-com


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

theyll tell you that so they do not have to fix it, call revo, theyll tell you


----------



## badbidet (Sep 13, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_any news on that harness refund? sorry to bug ya, just thinking about when I may be able to call and schedule a dyno.

He has not responded. I just filed a paypal thing. Ill give him until this thurs to respond, then I will escalate to a claim.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

So, I should be running the TT MAF? Because I specifically asked that @ one point or another. 
Basically... if you watch my vid, from what Pat @ PI says, it should be going staright up to 20 and should pretty much sit there all day long, even to redline. In fact, I think the way he said it was something like "If you drew a line on the gauge, it would just sit there perfectly the whole way." Obviously mine doesn't come close to that. Mine dies out up top as that was showing - so I really have about 1500rpms of "good" boost currently? I think at the end of the vid it was down to like 16psi already, which wasn't even @ redline - more like 5500rpms? Ah... I don't know wtf is wrong. 
When I received my receipt from PI (and of course my ECU), it said Revo StgI $700. And then it said boost: 6, timing: 2. When I drove it on those settings it was still doing the 10psi weird thing, but it was only going to about 1bar. Now, I don't understand how that could have happened - I would have thought that straight from them it would have been peachy. I had to use my SPS3 and screw w/it for a long time to get it to even go above 20psi. That seems to be what the range should be. 
For whatever it's worth, I did logging w/Val (18T_BT) and everything seemed fine, so I really just don't even know where to look at this point. Actual Boost = Requested, -1.1% trims short + long term, and timing pull was a max of like 9* if I recall correctly (timing 3 on old SPS3). Anyone know a place to pick up a cheap TT MAF sensor? I guess that's the next place to go. I just don't know ymore...










































http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
Oh, for whatever it's worth, my gas mileage sucks - it keeps getting written off as me beating on my car, but it's noticably crappy. I'm getting like 20mpg and that's honestly staying out oof boost as much as possible. I think I'm going to pick up a new IAT sensor as well - mine has 46k on it now, and I hear it's not a bad idea to replace it. Any other ideas? Anyone?


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_yes tt 2.75, not 3 inch

TT is 2.75 ID, and 3"OD. Just make sure you reference the coorect number


----------



## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_So, I should be running the TT MAF? Because I specifically asked that @ one point or another. 
Basically... if you watch my vid, from what Pat @ PI says, it should be going staright up to 20 and should pretty much sit there all day long, even to redline. In fact, I think the way he said it was something like "If you drew a line on the gauge, it would just sit there perfectly the whole way." Obviously mine doesn't come close to that. Mine dies out up top as that was showing - so I really have about 1500rpms of "good" boost currently? I think at the end of the vid it was down to like 16psi already, which wasn't even @ redline - more like 5500rpms? Ah... I don't know wtf is wrong. 
When I received my receipt from PI (and of course my ECU), it said Revo StgI $700. And then it said boost: 6, timing: 2. When I drove it on those settings it was still doing the 10psi weird thing, but it was only going to about 1bar. Now, I don't understand how that could have happened - I would have thought that straight from them it would have been peachy. I had to use my SPS3 and screw w/it for a long time to get it to even go above 20psi. That seems to be what the range should be. 
For whatever it's worth, I did logging w/Val (18T_BT) and everything seemed fine, so I really just don't even know where to look at this point. Actual Boost = Requested, -1.1% trims short + long term, and timing pull was a max of like 9* if I recall correctly (timing 3 on old SPS3). Anyone know a place to pick up a cheap TT MAF sensor? I guess that's the next place to go. I just don't know ymore...










































http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
Oh, for whatever it's worth, my gas mileage sucks - it keeps getting written off as me beating on my car, but it's noticably crappy. I'm getting like 20mpg and that's honestly staying out oof boost as much as possible. I think I'm going to pick up a new IAT sensor as well - mine has 46k on it now, and I hear it's not a bad idea to replace it. Any other ideas? Anyone? 

Man I feel you. I can't imagine how much that pisses you off. What exact codes are you receiving. All this can be caused by something so simple to. Possibly a bad ecu flash?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

They flashed you with RevoSTAGE 1? Why dont you send your ecu and that receipt to PI? Mine does not do that at all. I have pretty good gas mileage, and my boost holds pretty solid with or without my MBC in any configuration. *The only problem I had once was that my boost would go up to like 12, hold their for like 2 seconds then all of a sudden shoot up to 21 but hold pretty solid*. That problem mysteriously went away and my car runs like a dream now














. Only things I changed out after i started noticing my problem were my white top injectors to audi TT blue tops, and my race valve for my j valve, and spark plugs to APR stg 3 spark plugs, and i also cranked my wastegate rod 1.5 threads. Come to think about it, it started happening when i switched out my race to my j valve. I had not reset my ecu but when i did reset it and let the j valve adapt for a couple of hundred miles problem went away. Have you done a vacuum/boost leak test to see if you have any leaks







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:47 AM 4-24-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:49 AM 4-24-2007_


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (sh{}e)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sh{}e* »_
Man I feel you. I can't imagine how much that pisses you off. What exact codes are you receiving. All this can be caused by something so simple to. Possibly a bad ecu flash?


that's the issue, the cars is not throwing any codes...I haven't had the time to help you out yet 04VDUBGLI...we'll need to meet up during the week as long as it doesn't continue to rain...but I am not sure what all I can do if it's SW related...
when I went on a test ride, 04VDUBGLI told me that PI made the file like this to save rods (I was like OK







) as the car drives smooth...no other issues at all...timing was ok, no major pull (saw it hit 6-9degrees), afr seemed in check...IIRC stock N75 will work just fine (his REVO settings were Boost 9 Timing 4) the timing was slightly aggressive for 93 octane that we have here, so I told him to turn it down to 3...we haven't really logged since...


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

I have an old sps3, so my low boost is 9 and high boost is 4. Just for accuracy. Otherwise, he has it spot on. I was originally running timing 4.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Well, I don't know if they could have accidentally flashed me w/stage 1 SW, but the thought certain lingers for me. 
I'm running the stock N75 w/TT injectors and a 4 bar. My WG is cranked already... but maybe I'll give it a little more.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

pi did not mkae the file like that to save rods like so many think, i dont know who started that rumor.. sounds like you need to contact revo.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

I really wish there was a Revo dealer nearer to me than PI. They are the closest @ 200miles away.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

call themmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm already


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Just in case this is what I need to do.. what does anyone think on the price/ebay/model/etc... of the following?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_call themmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm already

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I've only said that like a few times








yes, that's the right sensor, just don't start buying parts...the maf won't cause the boost issues you are describing


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Honestly, I'm trying to spend as little time on the phone as possible w/them. I have 450mins/month and I've spent at least 100 w/PI already this month. If I go over my minutes I may as well have driven down and talked to them b/c it'll cost me just as much. Plus, everytime I call I end up having to talk to Pat b/c no one else seems to know what's going on w/k04s in general, or just doesn't want to talk to me. I guess I'll send Pat a link to that video and have him watch it and maybe that'll help more.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Ok, so I talked to Pat again today. He watched the vid and thinks that there's either a vacuum leak somewhere or that the n249 is opening the DV (in an overboost type situation) and that is causing the weird boost fluctuations/drop off. So... at this point, should I try to put my MBC in as discussed like 1 page ago to try to remedy an overboost?


----------



## sirwolfk04 (Jul 24, 2006)

*Re:*

I just installed my setup:
-Audi TT 180hp engine ATC
-K04-022
-TT 225 manifold
-3'' VR6 MAF
-TT 225 injectors
-Big FMIC
-Custom 3'' DP
-stock FPR (waiting for my 4bar to arrive)
-007 DV
-Stock NJ75
I already had revo STG1 with old K03S. Now i still run STG1 untill i go to REVO dealer. My boost is not holding. It goes up to 21 and (lets say in 3rd gear) and will go down to 13psi. No leak ! DV is ok.
It pulls strong, but i know it could be better. Do you think it's because i don't have the FPR 4bar installed ? or just because i am still running Stage1 revo ?


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Ok, so I talked to Pat again today. He watched the vid and thinks that there's either a vacuum leak somewhere or that the n249 is opening the DV (in an overboost type situation) and that is causing the weird boost fluctuations/drop off. So... at this point, should I try to put my MBC in as discussed like 1 page ago to try to remedy an overboost? 


http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Quote, originally posted by *sirwolfk04* »_I just installed my setup:
-Audi TT 180hp engine ATC
-K04-022
-TT 225 manifold
-3'' VR6 MAF
-TT 225 injectors
-Big FMIC
-Custom 3'' DP
-stock FPR (waiting for my 4bar to arrive)
-007 DV
-Stock NJ75
I already had revo STG1 with old K03S. Now i still run STG1 untill i go to REVO dealer. My boost is not holding. It goes up to 21 and (lets say in 3rd gear) and will go down to 13psi. No leak ! DV is ok.
It pulls strong, but i know it could be better. Do you think it's because i don't have the FPR 4bar installed ? or just because i am still running Stage1 revo ?

Revo Stg1 should do this because the stock turbo on your car would die off like this http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif either pony up for the upgraded SW or install a diode (don't install the diode before you get your 4 bar)


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Ok, so I talked to Pat again today. He watched the vid and thinks that there's either a vacuum leak somewhere or that the n249 is opening the DV (in an overboost type situation) and that is causing the weird boost fluctuations/drop off. So... at this point, should I try to put my MBC in as discussed like 1 page ago to try to remedy an overboost? 

That is what i asked you above if you did a vacuum leak test. And it would not hurt to try the MBC in the differant configurations. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: Re: (sirwolfk04)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sirwolfk04* »_I just installed my setup:
-Audi TT 180hp engine ATC
-K04-022
-TT 225 manifold
-3'' VR6 MAF
-TT 225 injectors
-Big FMIC
-Custom 3'' DP
-stock FPR (waiting for my 4bar to arrive)
-007 DV
-Stock NJ75
I already had revo STG1 with old K03S. Now i still run STG1 untill i go to REVO dealer. My boost is not holding. It goes up to 21 and (lets say in 3rd gear) and will go down to 13psi. No leak ! DV is ok.
It pulls strong, but i know it could be better. Do you think it's because i don't have the FPR 4bar installed ? or just because i am still running Stage1 revo ?

Don't expect it to run correctly without the right software or FPR in there. Get the Software ASAP! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_
That is what i asked you above if you did a vacuum leak test. And it would not hurt to try the MBC in the differant configurations. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

a vacuum leak would show up in the fuel trims and they were within 1.5%...can't ask much more then that http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
a vacuum leak would show up in the fuel trims and they were within 1.5%...can't ask much more then that http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

not always, a boost leak yea but not a vac leak
and vdub i would not mess with a MBC yet, as ive told you before if you hooked up everything the way i told you then your 249 is out of the loop. it seems your trying to fix problems by creating new ones if you catch my drift. yur going about it the wrong way!


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

you can tell a vacuum leak by the boost gauge and his sits right around 20-22 depending on the barometer that day


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
not always, a boost leak yea but not a vac leak
and vdub i would not mess with a MBC yet, as ive told you before if you hooked up everything the way i told you then your 249 is out of the loop. it seems your trying to fix problems by creating new ones if you catch my drift. yur going about it the wrong way!









what do you thin a vac leak becomes when the intake is pressurized? 
how would a mbc have anything to do with the n249?


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
you can tell a vacuum leak by the boost gauge and his sits right around 20-22 depending on the barometer that day









alot can atest this isnt true in some cases
after the throttle body you can have leaks but yet still pull 22 inches of mercury. i along with alot of other people relaized this when we pulled 18-20 but yet still had leaks after the TB after doing a leak test.
in some cases i have blown off IC pipes and still pulled 18 inches at idle even before the TB


_Modified by 200320thAE2632 at 12:41 PM 4-24-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (mirror)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mirror* »_
what do you thin a vac leak becomes when the intake is pressurized? 
how would a mbc have anything to do with the n249? 

i told him before to pick up the DV on the FPR line, and forget the n249
but i told him to mess around with the MBC after he fixes this issue. i went through all the same exact probs he did if you read my older posts on my other names, i went through it all i told him how i fixed them but he has yet to do what i did but still asks all the same questions


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
alot can atest this isnt true in some cases
*how?*
after the throttle body you can have leaks but yet still pull 22 inches of mercury. i along with alot of other people relaized this when we pulled 18-20 but yet still had leaks after the TB after doing a leak test.
*after the TB? so the stock intake mani leaks when he's never touched it?*
in some cases i have blown off IC pipes and still pulled 18 inches at idle even before the TB
*that's just false...I've installed several kits (much more intense then this k04 stuff) and always you will hear a leak or feel it drop below 18HG...usually in the 10-15 range...and see it reflected in fuel trims*


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
i told him before to pick up the DV on the FPR line, and forget the n249
but i told him to mess around with the MBC after he fixes this issue. i went through all the same exact probs he did if you read my older posts on my other names, i went through it all i told him how i fixed them but he has yet to do what i did but still asks all the same questions









so why don't you spell it out for me and I'll go do whatever needs done today so that this problem is fixed...it ain't rainin


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

ive told him many of times how to fix it but hes not taking any of my advice so i am done trying to help him, he asks me the same stuff over and over again and when i tell him what to do he never wants to do it, but lives asking me how to fix it over and over again.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

and hes touched/alterd many lines after the TB connected to the intake manifold that i told him to reroute and fix and even how to, but hes yet to do them....


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Don't give me that. I haven't T'd the DV line into FPR line yet. And I haven't gotten around to tracking down the combi lines and capping those. I need to figure out what size the vac lines are and get a T and then some clamps and then I'll screw w/it. I really need someone to come over and drive me around so I don't have to move my car and then I'll screw w/stuff. During the week I'll rarely be doing anything b/c of school and work. I have the lowest heat tolerance of any person alive, so I always am waiting on the car to cool down - which is why the ride is an essential thing. 
Also, I don't know if anyone will understand what I'm talking about, but I'll ask anyhow. I once read somewhere, and can't remember where now, that you can purchase a check valve and place it inline w/one of the vac lines post TB and it'll basically show if there are any vac leaks at any given point. It would have something to do w/the fact that there couldn't be negative feedback I'd imagine. I've tried searching that, but no such luck yet. I can't believe how little luck I have w/searches, still. Noobs FTW!


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
so why don't you spell it out for me and I'll go do whatever needs done today so that this problem is fixed...it ain't rainin


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

I did cap those two lines, otherwise my vac lines are still in OEM positioning.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_I haven't T'd the DV line into FPR line yet. 

that's not necessary FYI


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

lol
the lines you need to cap are the 249 lines, right where the current dv line goes to the side of the block on the silver coke can shaped thing, cap all those lines


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*



04VDubGLI said:


> Don't give me that. I haven't *T'd the DV line into FPR* line yet. And I haven't gotten around to tracking down the *combi lines and capping those*. I need to figure out what size the vac lines are and get a T and then some clamps and then I'll screw w/it. I really need someone to come over and drive me around so I don't have to move my car and then I'll screw w/stuff. During the week I'll rarely be doing anything b/c of school and work. I have the lowest heat tolerance of any person alive, so I always am waiting on the car to cool down - which is why the ride is an essential thing.
> QUOTE]
> The lines in question that he _has_ told me what to do and where to do it. I haven't done them, as discussed. It's a matter of time right now. Val, if we could get together tonight I certainly would, but I'll be in a review session 7:30-8:30pm then I work 8:30-midnight. And I know you'll be at work til at least 5:30 and then have the meeting @ 7:30. Maybe sometime later this week we'll give it a go though.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
that's not necessary FYI

i use it cause its a great line to use, but once you cap the 249 where do you pick up for your DV then?


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

you guys are funny. 
1. you don't want to use the the fpr fr a dv vac source. leave the fpr alone. bypass the n249 if you must mess with it. 
2. a boost leak pre tb will not effect your vac at idle. it will post tb. a boost leak at pre tb will cause your fueling to suck while putting a load on the car.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
i use it cause its a great line to use, but once you cap the 249 where do you pick up for your DV then?

any vacuum source(intake manifold)...you don't need the N249


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

I'll take some pics of my things and everything that mr dodge charger is talking about. 249 and all the other crap you can cap off. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## JerseyDrew27 (Jun 22, 2005)

So, what kind of numbers are you KO4-022 guys putting down on the dyno? And no I don't plan on reading or filtering through all 30+ pages of this thread. It's a lot easier to just ask and get an answer.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
any vacuum source(intake manifold)...you don't need the N249

you said dont use the fpr line and i asked you why and now ou say any vac source.......well thats the fpr.......
i had the same probs as he is having, read my past posts on this thread, picking up the DV to the fpr was one thing that helped me. lots of people use the fpr to DV idea with great things to say about it, makes boost more cripser in my opinion when not used with the n249


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_I'll take some pics of my things and everything that mr dodge charger is talking about. 249 and all the other crap you can cap off. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


YOUR MY BOY BLUE! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif btw i sense some hostility from you k0420 guys for selling my ride for the charger


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
you said dont use the fpr line and i asked you why and now ou say any vac source.......well thats the fpr.......
i had the same probs as he is having, read my past posts on this thread, picking up the DV to the fpr was one thing that helped me. lots of people use the fpr to DV idea with great things to say about it, makes boost more cripser in my opinion when not used with the n249

did you not read man? use the intake manifold for the DV...best pressure source right thur! if you T into a pressure source you aren't doing anything good to the FPR http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
btw I am far from caring about your k04...I don't have one and probably never will unless my g/f buys a TT


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
did you not read man? use the intake manifold for the DV...best pressure source right thur! if you T into a pressure source you aren't doing anything good to the FPR http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
btw I am far from caring about your k04...I don't have one and probably never will unless my g/f buys a TT

there would be ZERO difference in tapping th FPR and tapping a line off the intake mani.
the line that goes to the FPR comes off the inatake mani as you know
theres plenty of vac and boost source still going to the fpr and you would never notice any dif in the way the car drives if hooked to FPR or straight to the intake mani http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
you of all people should know this http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
there would be ZERO difference in tapping th FPR and tapping a line off the intake mani.
the line that goes to the FPR comes off the inatake mani as you know
theres plenty of vac and boost source still going to the fpr and you would never notice any dif in the way the car drives if hooked to FPR or straight to the intake mani http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
you of all people should know this http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

actually I wouldn't say ZERO...it's minimal I agree...but pressurising 2 sources vs. one isn't the best idea and I don't set my cars up that way...all I am saying is that tapping the FPR has no benefit and I would prefer straight of the intake manifold...so it'll slightly delay reaction of the pressure to your FPR...why would you want that? i guess it doesn't matter as much for these k04 set ups as they aren't using a ton of fuel...and aren't ever @ 100%DC


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_

YOUR MY BOY BLUE! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif btw i sense some hostility from you k0420 guys for selling my ride for the charger









I call you Mr Dodge Charger cause you have had so many USER names that i dont know what the hell to call you so i use MR DODGE CHARGER. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

I on the other hand am hostile about that... because he knows secrets about k04s that he won't share. And that is not in regards to my issues whatsoever.


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
there would be ZERO difference in tapping th FPR and tapping a line off the intake mani.
the line that goes to the FPR comes off the inatake mani as you know
theres plenty of vac and boost source still going to the fpr and you would never notice any dif in the way the car drives if hooked to FPR or straight to the intake mani http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
you of all people should know this http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

the most you would want to run off the fpr is a boost gauge. ends there. it is a small 1mm line, not a 4-5mm line like a dv. i am not a beleiver in using the fpr for anything than the fpr. fueling is more important than how quickly your dv reacts.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Lol! well he did work first hand with the creators of the kit. I think that is why PI has never chimed in on this thread cause we have MR. Dodge Charger in here. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Sorry for the dirty engine!







Here are some pics where you can see the tubes you can cap off. You can also see where my DV is connected to FPR, and my mbc inline with J VALVE http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
one in winter mode:










































































_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:01 PM 4-24-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:03 PM 4-24-2007_


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

call me crazy but i really like that beige color for some reason, i always thought this and everyone calls me crazy.....i gues i am an oddball

i still think theres nothing wrong with using the fpr line, every car that got this kit locally this mod was done. i also dont think that it will in anyway change what the fpr reads or see's.


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_call me crazy but i really like that beige color for some reason, i always thought this and everyone calls me crazy.....i gues i am an oddball

I don't think your crazy at all. I love Mojave beige http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Hm... I'm going to do a catch can... that's all I know after today. 
Thanks much for the pics. I used to have a grounding kit, but then I didn't like it anymore and took it out. I'm trying to make my bay look OEM. I may buy a new TIP, although the stock TIP really helps keep the OEM feeling alive








Also, my DV is likely going to the cold side soon, so the DV vac issue will be simple, I'll just go to the nearest line over there. I guess I'll just move that up the priority list. Does anyone happen to know where to find 1" elbows? I got some from Home Depot and they aren't really 1". And then I got some others and they were over 1". So... wtf


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

http://public.fotki.com/ttschw...ation/


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

So do I need the TT intake manifold for this mod, or can I just relocate to the passenger side? Can I just cut up the hose coming up from intercooler into intake manifold and just insert that Forge piece in there? I've been wanting to do this mod for a while now but have not gotten to it yet. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

http://www.forgemotorsport.com...CSDVR
no you don't need a TT intake mani...many different ways to do this:


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

Nice. Only thing i dont like is running that long piece of hose to the UPPER IC PIPING. I like to keep the hoses as short as possible. This will be my project for this weekend. I will also be installing my catchcan that i bought about 3 months ago. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif And i just plug up the DV hole in the TIP?
_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:36 AM 4-25-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:37 AM 4-25-2007_


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_Nice. Only thing i dont like is running that long piece of hose to the UPPER IC PIPING. I like to keep the hoses as short as possible. This will be my project for this weekend. I will slao be installing my catchcan that i bought about 3 months ago. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

that pipe you see isn't the IC pipe, rather the intake...unless I didn't understand what you meant...if you want to make it as short as possible, leave it as is







a TT intake mani will need a new map sensor extension and the IAT sensor might need extended also...


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_This will be my project for this weekend. I will also be installing my catchcan that i bought about 3 months ago. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif And i just plug up the DV hole in the TIP?
_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:36 AM 4-25-2007_

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:37 AM 4-25-2007_


you will need to vent it back into your intake aka TIP...don't vent it back into the IC pipe...that'll defeat the purpose of the DV


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## TurboGTi222 (Sep 5, 2006)

34 pages, and STILL no dyno. You guys are killing me lol. How about a block 005 dyno. I know u guys can afford that.


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (TurboGTi222)*

Ok you see that red hose going into the DV from UPPER IC pipe? What do I do with that nipple that is gonna be left open on the IC pipe? DO i cap that?










_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:53 AM 4-25-2007_


----------



## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

yes. you can pick up a 1" alluminum plug from ecstuning or atp.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_Ok you see that red hose going into the DV from UPPER IC pipe? What do I do with that nipple that is gonna be left open on the IC pipe? DO i cap that?









_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:53 AM 4-25-2007_

that stock IC pipe that is in the middle of your engine bay (by the firewall of course) will be plugged up. You will take the DV put it by the TB and then run a hose into your TIP. Does that make sense?


_Quote, originally posted by *TurboGTi222* »_34 pages, and STILL no dyno. You guys are killing me lol. How about a block 005 dyno. I know u guys can afford that.

you pay, I'll dyno http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

Ok now i understand, but damn 140 bucks for DV relocation kit? Is there a DIY on this? Can I home Depot it?


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_Ok now i understand, but damn 140 bucks for DV relocation kit? Is there a DIY on this? Can I home Depot it?









just get a pice of 60mm pipe (probably about 6 inches) and drill a hole in the middle...take it to an exhaust shop and tell them to weld it right in the middle (make sure to either bead roll the ends and the bung that you weld needs it) you don't have to bead roll it if the exhaust shop doesn't have a bead roller, they can just weld a bead around the ends...should be pretty cheap and any hose from NAPA for the DV vent back into the intake...


----------



## JerseyDrew27 (Jun 22, 2005)

*Re: (TurboGTi222)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TurboGTi222* »_34 pages, and STILL no dyno. You guys are killing me lol. How about a block 005 dyno. I know u guys can afford that.

I guess they are just going to ignore our posts about seeing some numbers. C'mon you guys, I want to see numbers! Enough talk already about the setup and some issues.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (JerseyDrew27)*

I'll go get a dyno as soon as I get some money in my paypal account. Otherwise I'm focusing on other things w/my money. 
For my DV relocation setup I bought a 60mm T from forgemotorsports.com (like $35?) and then I picked up all of the other parts from advanced auto. I got 1" heater core hose for the return line and obviously all of the clamps and what not. It'll probably be like a $60 project all said and done. Hardest part for me is finding 1" elbows to fit in. Brass elbows seem to be a little small and copper elbows a little big. It's killin me!
Anyone know a good place to get a catch can? I mean... I kind of suspect that even a cheap Ebay one would work, but I don't know. 


_Modified by 04VDubGLI at 12:05 PM 4-25-2007_


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## TurboGTi222 (Sep 5, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_I'll go get a dyno as soon as I get some money in my paypal account. Otherwise I'm focusing on other things w/my money. 

Like i said, I'd settle for a vag-com "butt dyno", which is surprisingly accurate as long as you enter the correct vehicle weight, and coast down to the start speed. Vag-com dyno=free.......


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (TurboGTi222)*

In the event that I ever get around to doing one, I'll send you the numbers on AA. haha. This weekend I'm going to devote some time to working out my boost issues and then I'm going to get a friend to log me. So... hopefully that all comes together.
Is that vehicle weight w/ or w/o driver?


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (JerseyDrew27)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JerseyDrew27* »_
I guess they are just going to ignore our posts about seeing some numbers. C'mon you guys, I want to see numbers! Enough talk already about the setup and some issues.

donate some money with your friend...what's 25 bux from each of you...I'll go dyno a k04-020 for ya and post it all over this thread


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## TurboGTi222 (Sep 5, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_In the event that I ever get around to doing one, I'll send you the numbers on AA. haha. This weekend I'm going to devote some time to working out my boost issues and then I'm going to get a friend to log me. So... hopefully that all comes together.
Is that vehicle weight w/ or w/o driver? 
Cool, sounds good. The vehicle weight is with driver.


----------



## TurboGTi222 (Sep 5, 2006)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
donate some money with your friend...what's 25 bux from each of you...I'll go dyno a k04-020 for ya and post it all over this thread
no need to be a douche, I was just messing with 04vdub.... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (TurboGTi222)*

I know you were







. I'll see what happens w/the block 005 thing and I'll let you know, since we had discussed it at another time.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (TurboGTi222)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TurboGTi222* »_no need to be a douche, I was just messing with 04vdub.... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

it's not being a douche...if people really want to see dyno's why don't a few people pitch in a few bucks...say 4-5 people give 10 bux...that's close enough for a dyno http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## JerseyDrew27 (Jun 22, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
it's not being a douche...if people really want to see dyno's why don't a few people pitch in a few bucks...say 4-5 people give 10 bux...that's close enough for a dyno http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Why should other people give money to get those that have the kit to dyno their cars? If you have money to get the kit, then you should have money to dyno the car yourself. Stop being lazy/cheap and go do it!


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (JerseyDrew27)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JerseyDrew27* »_Why should other people give money to get those that have the kit to dyno their cars? If you have money to get the kit, then you should have money to dyno the car yourself. Stop being lazy/cheap and go do it!

if you look at this page:
you will see a former k04-20 owner and his choppy dyno... theres is also one on page 28 as well from europe
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...ge=26


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (JerseyDrew27)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JerseyDrew27* »_Why should other people give money to get those that have the kit to dyno their cars? If you have money to get the kit, then you should have money to dyno the car yourself. Stop being lazy/cheap and go do it!

you say that I am being a douche ROFL @ you...I don't have this kit nor do I want it...I know someone who does and if you want to see a dyno 10 bux isn't a lot of money...
if you'd think a little deeper then yourself...this site is a community and most people know each other and meet up @ car shows etc etc...so if you are interested in this kit and want to see how it performs, why not give a few bucks...here is something this site did http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2953254 (major testing of intake manifolds on a flow bench, and people - INCLUDING myself, pitched in)...what do I really stand to gain from this? nothing, it betters the community http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (JerseyDrew27)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JerseyDrew27* »_
Why should other people give money to get those that have the kit to dyno their cars? If you have money to get the kit, then you should have money to dyno the car yourself. Stop being lazy/cheap and go do it!

Why should other people give money to dyno? Cause you are the ones who want to see a dyno. Those who own the kit know what the kit is capable of and don't need to see a dyno. There are two dynos posted of actual k04-20 dynos here. If you do a little search of this thread you will find them. Matter fact let me make life a little easier for you and give you the page number. Page 28 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 2:36 PM 4-25-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 2:44 PM 4-25-2007_


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

And why would you guys want dynos if we have 1/4 mile times and trap speeds? SloJTI did 13.2 on the 1/4 mile on 93 oct and said he could have easily got in the upper 12's with some 100oct in the tank what more do you want from a k04?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I'm pretty sure slicks are a must have w/this setup. I ran my car w/my 18s on it and we're not even going to talk about my time, but my traps went up at least. I think my best 60' was something like 2.49... and the worst being in the 2.7 range. I used to run 2.234 w/my k03s on my 17s.


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I swapped out my stock n75 for the j valve I had on my x+. Wow the car ran so much smoother and didn't spike past 21psi.
Im holding 17psi at redline in 3rd and 4th gear.
Does this sound acceptable?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (loudgli)*

sounds perfect. how do you feel it? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_I swapped out my stock n75 for the j valve I had on my x+. Wow the car ran so much smoother and didn't spike past 21psi.
Im holding 17psi at redline in 3rd and 4th gear.
Does this sound acceptable?

I ran GIAC with the J valve also http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif However, I did spike to 24-25 and tapered off to ~14-15 on the pump gas program. The race gas program held more boost to redline, ~ 18-19 psi
And yes, 04VDubGLI, at the track, that boost spike/tq spike almost makes it a necessity for slicks. And if your not going to run the boot, you better have a damn good clutch that can handle some crazy slipping to moderate that spike


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
you better have a damn good clutch that can handle some crazy slipping to moderate that spike 

this means no vr6 clutch, i glazed the crap out of mine more than once. but that may have been my fault.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_And why would you guys want dynos if we have 1/4 mile times and trap speeds? SloJTI did 13.2 on the 1/4 mile on 93 oct and said he could have easily got in the upper 12's with some 100oct in the tank what more do you want from a k04?









Still yet to see a better ET







Don't forget to say those ET's were on slicks







Don't want peeps to think that they can run that number on street tires


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_sounds perfect. how do you feel it? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

feels alot more driveable than with stock j valve. You had to almost baby it and try to stay below 0 psi when accelerating normaly. Otherwise the car felt jerky as hell when trying to stay <5psi. I have a autometer guage that I havent got switched out yet that only goes to 20psi. I was going WELL past 20. Had to spike atleast 24 in second. Seemed like it held farther into redline than 17. Which I suppose I dont want to spike that high with my setup anyway. My turbo would flutter real bad between 8-15psi. And when the dv would open it would transfer the sound into the valve. Bothered me, sounded terrible. Had to have to do with the wastegate, I assume cause the j valve fixed it completely. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Overal Im happy. My buddy at the shop where I get my flashes, said he might be able to get me in on the "truth machine" aka dyno sometime this spring. Are any of you guys able to check a/f ratio? He said I would have to have a bung welded in for a wideband if I wanted to log it.
In regards to the p1118 code I was getting, I baught two new o2 sensors and when I was installing the pre-cat one tonight I noticed I had smashed the housing when I dropped the dp to install the turbo







probably time for new ones anyway.


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

Ok I've got a question for everyone using the Pro-Imports REVO K04-020 software...
I'm currently using the REVO stage 3 K04-020 file with USRT 380cc Genesis Injectors and my stock 1.8T MAF on my GT2X eliminator kit and I'm having horrible cold start issues. In fact, it's not just cold start, it's the first start of the day regardless of the temp outside... The car will usually start on the first try but it will idle horribly, the rpms will jump up then fall way down and the car will almost stall. Sometimes the battey light even comes on when the rpms fall too low... I've also thrown a CEL a few times due to excessive misfires on cold start up. The car doesn't misfire under boost or any other time, just for the first five minutes or so of running. I've also noticed the throttle doesn't repsond well at all until the car is fully warmed up. If I try to drive it before its warmed up, I have to give it a lot more gas to get it to move and sometimes it will stall. It's as if me pushing the gas pedal does nothing, its very frustrating... 
Anyway, I was wondering if I bought the 3" TT MAF from Pro-Imports would it help the cold starts? Or do I need to play with lemmiwinks and my startup/warm up enrich... Does anyone have any ideas or has anyone experienced this before? 
Just to note, I'm currently selling the GT2X and hopefully sometime soon picking up a K04-020 kit http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


_Modified by 20vTurboGLI at 1:44 AM 4-26-2007_


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

U running 3 bar or 4 bar... I'm running the TT injectors at 4 bar and the whte tops that they sold sucked.... but the tt's are 364 so it's liek a 420cc or so... at 4 bar if i can' remember right...
What spark plugs?


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_U running 3 bar or 4 bar... I'm running the TT injectors at 4 bar and the whte tops that they sold sucked.... but the tt's are 364 so it's liek a 420cc or so... at 4 bar if i can' remember right...
What spark plugs?

I'm running a 3 bar right now and NGK BKR7E's gapped at .026...


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_Anyway, I was wondering if I bought the 3" TT MAF from Pro-Imports would it help the cold starts? 

Why would you use a MAF housing that the sw was not written for? With a smaller housing, the sensor will read higher air speeds, which will put more fuel into the incoming air. Check your fuel trims (block 032) and I bet your ECU is more than -10% and you may even have a code for being rich at idle. 
Your injectors and plugs are fine, you could even open that gap a hair to .027


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

you may have an older non revised k04 file, PI has newer revised ones and only PI has them, revo has made the newer stuff exclusively for them


----------



## sirwolfk04 (Jul 24, 2006)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_Ok I've got a question for everyone using the Pro-Imports REVO K04-020 software...
I'm currently using the REVO stage 3 K04-020 file with USRT 380cc Genesis Injectors and my stock 1.8T MAF on my GT2X eliminator kit and I'm having horrible cold start issues. In fact, it's not just cold start, it's the first start of the day regardless of the temp outside... The car will usually start on the first try but it will idle horribly, the rpms will jump up then fall way down and the car will almost stall. Sometimes the battey light even comes on when the rpms fall too low... I've also thrown a CEL a few times due to excessive misfires on cold start up. The car doesn't misfire under boost or any other time, just for the first five minutes or so of running. I've also noticed the throttle doesn't repsond well at all until the car is fully warmed up. If I try to drive it before its warmed up, I have to give it a lot more gas to get it to move and sometimes it will stall. It's as if me pushing the gas pedal does nothing, its very frustrating... 
Anyway, I was wondering if I bought the 3" TT MAF from Pro-Imports would it help the cold starts? Or do I need to play with lemmiwinks and my startup/warm up enrich... Does anyone have any ideas or has anyone experienced this before? 
Just to note, I'm currently selling the GT2X and hopefully sometime soon picking up a K04-020 kit http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

_Modified by 20vTurboGLI at 1:44 AM 4-26-2007_


It's probably a maf problem. Try unpluging it, and see if it helps.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (sirwolfk04)*

You cant run revo k04-20 SW with a stock MAF housing/sensor. I mean you can but it will run like crap as you have noticed. I would buy an audi TT 225 MAF housing/sensor and a 4 bar cause that is what the SW is written for. Since the ECU takes it's signals for fueling partially from the MAF sensor, you end up with a lower signal being interpreted by the ECU. ECU sees a lower signal, assumes less air, and reduces fuel. That is why your car has the problems it has. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 



_Modified by 01gtiaww at 10:10 AM 4-26-2007_


----------



## JerseyDrew27 (Jun 22, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_
Why should other people give money to dyno? Cause you are the ones who want to see a dyno. Those who own the kit know what the kit is capable of and don't need to see a dyno. There are two dynos posted of actual k04-20 dynos here. If you do a little search of this thread you will find them. Matter fact let me make life a little easier for you and give you the page number. Page 28 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 2:36 PM 4-25-2007_

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 2:44 PM 4-25-2007_

Yeah, thanks ass. You're a dollar short and a day late on that one. I was just curious to see what type of numbers that kit puts down, as would anyone that might be interested in the kit. 


_Modified by JerseyDrew27 at 11:13 AM 4-26-2007_


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (JerseyDrew27)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JerseyDrew27* »_
Yeah, thanks ass. You're a dollar short and a day late on that one. I was just curious to see what type of numbers that kit puts down, as would anyone that might be interested in the kit. 

_Modified by JerseyDrew27 at 11:13 AM 4-26-2007_

actually you are a dollar short and day late...if you are interested in the kit and want to see numbers, go to the PI website and see what they put down...that's what they tested it for, right?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (JerseyDrew27)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JerseyDrew27* »_
Yeah, thanks ass. You're a dollar short and a day late on that one. I was just curious to see what type of numbers that kit puts down, as would anyone that might be interested in the kit. 

_Modified by JerseyDrew27 at 11:13 AM 4-26-2007_

You are an idiot! I posted right after you did same day. And why don't you show this thread some respect. This is actually one of the most informative threads i have seen on the vortex in a while. If you dont like it and can't show the thread some respect take it somewhere else thanks. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 2:48 PM 4-26-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I'd be lying if I said I didn't like this thread. I get to post all of my issues up and complain and it's actually helpful (potentially @ a min) to someone else! Not to mention everyone has been uber helpful for me. 
The k04-20 brethren FTW!


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
Why would you use a MAF housing that the sw was not written for? With a smaller housing, the sensor will read higher air speeds, which will put more fuel into the incoming air. Check your fuel trims (block 032) and I bet your ECU is more than -10% and you may even have a code for being rich at idle. 
Your injectors and plugs are fine, you could even open that gap a hair to .027

Well I have a 3" housing, but my 1.8T sensor didn't fit into it so I couldn't use it... I'm going to try a TT 225 3" MAF and see what happens. I checked my fuel trims and they were 3.1 and 18.8 which I know are horrible... I'm just confused because the car runs great, except for the first startup of the day, the car idles fine the rest of the time...

_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_you may have an older non revised k04 file, PI has newer revised ones and only PI has them, revo has made the newer stuff exclusively for them

I find that hard to beleive, because if that is true, then REVO must not want to make money... Besides, the people who bought this kit when it first came out didn't have this problem, so I doubt its an outdated software issue...

_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_You cant run revo k04-20 SW with a stock MAF housing/sensor. I mean you can but it will run like crap as you have noticed. I would buy an audi TT 225 MAF housing/sensor and a 4 bar cause that is what the SW is written for. Since the ECU takes it's signals for fueling partially from the MAF sensor, you end up with a lower signal being interpreted by the ECU. ECU sees a lower signal, assumes less air, and reduces fuel. That is why your car has the problems it has. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
_Modified by 01gtiaww at 10:10 AM 4-26-2007_

The car runs fine, except during the first start up of the day... I've logged timing, g/s and a/f and everything is perfect except for that first startup... I'm going to try a 3" TT 225 MAF and go from there...
Also, I don't know if a 4 bar is a good idea, I mean I'm running USRT 380cc injectors which are 380 @ 3 bar and probably over 400 @ 4 bar. I thought this software was written for TT injectors which are 364 @ 3 bar and just over 380 @ 4 bar???
I've heard the N112 valve has been known to cause the crazy startup issues and if you unplug it the problems will go away. I'm going to try that as well.


_Modified by 20vTurboGLI at 6:45 PM 4-26-2007_


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

TT injectors are 364cc @ 3bar and something like 420-430 @ 4bar. 380cc @ 4bar = 440cc. However, apparently the TT ones are more efficient than the USRTs or something? Anyhow, that's more or less what the conversion is.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_Well I have a 3" housing, but my 1.8T sensor didn't fit into it so I couldn't use it... I'm going to try a TT 225 3" MAF and see what happens. * I checked my fuel trims and they were 3.1 and 18.8 which I know are horrible...* I'm just confused because the car runs great, except for the first startup of the day, the car idles fine the rest of the time...


that usually means you have a leak http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

Here is a great chart with all VW/audi injector sizes and flow rates. It says audi TT 225 injectors are 386cc at 3 bar. It's from USRT racing and Scott F. Williams and I think they know there stuff. When I bought my blue tops they were advertised as 386cc also, when i looked in the audi forums and seat cupra R forums they also said 386cc.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
http://www.usrallyteam.com/con....html

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 7:44 PM 4-26-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 7:50 PM 4-26-2007_


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

TT injectors are def 364cc. That has been debated before. Anyhow, whatever the case... the 380s @ 4bar = 440cc equiv. And the 364s would probably be like... 16cc-30cc less than that @ most. So, yeah.


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_

that usually means you have a leak http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Or the wrong size MAF housing, which I do since I'm still using the stock one...
I'm also going to try the 4 bar FPR once I get the correct MAF housing in there. We'll see if I can't get the car to start up right every time http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

4 bar tt is right around 420 i think


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (beachball6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *beachball6* »_4 bar tt is right around 420 i think

anyone know 4 bar on the USRT 380cc injectors? Is it too high for the K04-020 software or just right?


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (beachball6)*

Either way our(REVO) software is set up for 380cc so we are all running plenty of fuel weather it be 420 430 or 440.







I prefer, the k0 420cc option.







REVO tends to run rich anyway. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 7:58 PM 4-26-2007_


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_
anyone know 4 bar on the USRT 380cc injectors? Is it too high for the K04-020 software or just right?

4 bar on USRT 380cc should be around 440cc. Those were actually my first option till I found some brand new audi TT 225 Blue Top Injectors for 200. If I was you i'd get a 3.5bar Genesis FPR to go with the injectors. But that's just me.

















_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:05 PM 4-26-2007_


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Honestly. I'm guessing you will see almost all of your issues fixed once you get a 3" MAF housing and once you check for leaks. I'm guessing this isn't an injector issue. I mean, everyone w/Revo typically has cold start issues, but what you're describing is pretty bad. When my car was outside one night in below 20*F weather the next morning I had to use the gas to get it to start, otherwise it would just start and fall on it's face. What gap plugs are you running? Assuming 93oct fuel? What timing? What other info you got?


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I havent paid 100% attn to the maf issues here but if anyone needs a 3" housing let me know. I also have a good vr6 maf and a 4bar fpr if that can help anyone out.


_Modified by loudgli at 10:34 PM 4-26-2007_


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Honestly. I'm guessing you will see almost all of your issues fixed once you get a 3" MAF housing and once you check for leaks. I'm guessing this isn't an injector issue. I mean, everyone w/Revo typically has cold start issues, but what you're describing is pretty bad. When my car was outside one night in below 20*F weather the next morning I had to use the gas to get it to start, otherwise it would just start and fall on it's face. What gap plugs are you running? Assuming 93oct fuel? What timing? What other info you got?

2.75, not 3!
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
2.75, not 3!
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Let's just call it the TT or VR6 MAF to make it easier http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
And I agree that the correct MAF will most likely fix my problem, but for now I've unplugged the N112 valve to see if that helps at all.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

If you unplug the N112 then you MUST unplug the air pump or else you will break it. The air pump will be blowing into a closed combi-valve. If you unplug the N112 then you will get DTC's like P0411 and others because the car knows that the pump isn't running, it can tell because the O2's aren't seeing the additional air at startup. It will take a few cold starts, but you will most likely get a CEL eventually. And I doubt if it will run any better, it may seem like it is but that's just because it normally runs a little rough while the air pump is on, but that's perfectly normal.
As long as your combi-valve isn't blocked up, which in itself would cause a CEL, then I don't think you should mess with the N112 or anything else related to secondary air. Just make sure the vacuum line to the combi-valve is in good shape, it's a 3-4" long braided hose that is connected to the combi-valve right under your intake boot. Sometimes they break...










_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 3:48 AM 4-27-2007_


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
2.75, not 3!
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

2.75 ID, 3 OD http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

I also had cold start issues in the morning but only in the mornings. I would have to crank it 2 times in order to start. ISSUE went away totally once i installed my blue top injectors. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif ALso make sure your injctors are seated properly in the intake manifold. My buddy had the same cold start issues and it was due to the fact that his injectors were not seated properly.


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:01 AM 4-27-2007_


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_I also had cold start issues in the morning but only in the mornings. I would have to crank it 2 times in order to start. ISSUE went away totally once i installed my blue top injectors. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif ALso make sure your injctors are seated properly in the intake manifold. My buddy had the same cold start issues and it was due to the fact that his injectors were not seated properly.

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:01 AM 4-27-2007_

i always use motor oil off the dip stick to help install the injectors, never install them dry, and yes 2.75 ID i say 2.75 so no dumb assss buys a atp 3 nch maf housing, the OD wont matter just always remember 2.75 inch maf is what you want, anyone who messures the outside part that wont always see the air shouldnt be upgrading then lol http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

How would one know if their injectors weren't seated properly? I doubt that would have any bearing on my situation, but I'm curious.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_How would one know if their injectors weren't seated properly? I doubt that would have any bearing on my situation, but I'm curious.

there would be residue usually around the injector, your fuel trims would be out of wack as it's a leak to the system...it's kinda hard to do on these injector bungs IMHO http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

^what he said^


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Well anyhow, so today I did some trouble shooting w/a friend of mine locally. If I replace my N75 w/a MBC my car goes right up to like 24-25 and seems to be pretty steady there. As soon as the N75 is back in it likes to do the 2 stage boost thing. Also, from the latest logs, the actual boost is much lower than the requested boost when it does the 2stage thing. So... that suggests there is some sort of issue. Also, for the record, I plugged all of the previously mentioned vac places and it still does it. In fact, the car seemed better w/the vac reservoir connected (on top of the valve cover, part of the n249 setup). So... what is the problem? It's obviously not a HW issue b/c as soon as I put that MBC in there it did exactly as it should. Oh yeah, I forgot to mention, I tried 2 different N75s - so it's not them either. The throttle body is doing what it should be, the N75 is fine, no leaks, no... anything. All logs were clean and good... minus my lack of boost. So, what next? It would seem as though something is telling the N75 to dump boost/not allow boost - some sort of conflict is occurring. Where/why/how, I don't know.


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_

I find that hard to beleive, because if that is true, then REVO must not want to make money... Besides, the people who bought this kit when it first came out didn't have this problem, so I doubt its an outdated software issue...
_Modified by 20vTurboGLI at 6:45 PM 4-26-2007_

ask PI yourself, PI has invested so much of their own money in revo that revo exclusivley made files for them and only them, i should know i worked there for along time http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Well anyhow, so today I did some trouble shooting w/a friend of mine locally. If I replace my N75 w/a MBC my car goes right up to like 24-25 and seems to be pretty steady there. As soon as the N75 is back in it likes to do the 2 stage boost thing. Also, from the latest logs, the actual boost is much lower than the requested boost when it does the 2stage thing. So... that suggests there is some sort of issue. Also, for the record, I plugged all of the previously mentioned vac places and it still does it. In fact, the car seemed better w/the vac reservoir connected (on top of the valve cover, part of the n249 setup). So... what is the problem? It's obviously not a HW issue b/c as soon as I put that MBC in there it did exactly as it should. Oh yeah, I forgot to mention, I tried 2 different N75s - so it's not them either. The throttle body is doing what it should be, the N75 is fine, no leaks, no... anything. All logs were clean and good... minus my lack of boost. So, what next? It would seem as though something is telling the N75 to dump boost/not allow boost - some sort of conflict is occurring. Where/why/how, I don't know. 


So you are saying that it felt better with the MBC in place of the N75? Why don't you just leave it like that? And you are not going to notice anything by switching n75's unless you let the computer adapt to them. This takes at least 3 full drive cycles each time you replace it with a differant one. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Same goes with any other electrical mod you tamper with. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_I tried 2 different N75s - so it's not them either. 

Did you try 2 different styles of n75's or just 2 different stock n75's? Just curious

_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_
And you are not going to notice anything by switching n75's unless you let the computer adapt to them. This takes at least 3 full drive cycles each time you replace it with a differant one. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Same goes with any other electrical mod you tamper with. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Not creating an argument here with you, but when I put my j valve in, I noticed the difference very first time the car went into boost. It pretty much has ran the same ever since. Just $.02


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_
Did you try 2 different styles of n75's or just 2 different stock n75's? Just curious
Not creating an argument here with you, but when I put my j valve in, I noticed the difference very first time the car went into boost. It pretty much has ran the same ever since. Just $.02


They were 2 different F valves (stock). Also, the second one is still on my car now... so they both have had plenty of driving cycles. The MBC boosted significantly better compared to the N75 when it was in place. However, I don't want the partial throttle issues. I'm actually pretty pissed off that I paid $700 for SW that obviously is not working for my car for some reason. The N75 is part of the car... I don't see why it has to be removed for it to run properly. Something is screwed up w/that. I wonder if it's b/c they bench-flashed my ECU or something (so no N75 was present when they flashed it). The car is requesting the right amount of boost, but the actual boost isn't meeting it until like 4k. Something is disagreeing w/the requests or something. It just doesn't make sense to me?


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

which maf did u say u were running tt or vr6?


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_which maf did u say u were running tt or vr6?

TT and VR are the same size ID......


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
TT and VR are the same size ID......

Yes, but they have different sensors in them. I have to assume this makes a difference. From reading previous post, seems like there is an argument about which maf was designed to be used with revo.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I'm running a TT MAF housing w/an AWP MAF sensor. I don't know if I should be running a TT MAF sensor or not. I have to call PI and find out. But I do know that GIAC told me that I could run an AWP MAF sensor, it just wouldn't get the most out of the SW or something to that effect. So I'm sure that it would be better to be running the TT MAF sensor, but I don't know that it's a necessity. I'm not sure... I really would rather not spend $140+ on a sensor unless I'm 100% certain on it.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

My car was also flashed without my car. I sent my ecu in and they flashed and sent it back to me. I had a similar problem recently. My car would go up to 12-13 hold there for like two seconds like if it was stalling then all of a sudden jump up to its normal boost level. It went away. All i did was reset ECU and put J valve and it was fixed. I don't know if your issue is like the one i had. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif By the way i run the TT MAF housing and sensor. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

revo likes the actual tt maf sensor, not just the housing..


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

I believe the sensor that comes in the pi kit is a vr6. Thats atleast what I got from beachball6. I dont understand why it would come with it if its setup for a tt maf. If you want to try another vr6 one let me know. Ill let u borrow it. I would deffinately suggest trying a j valve also. We are apples and oranges but my car runs alot better.
BTW what is everyone seeing for vacuum at idle? I never see more than 17. Seemed kinda low to me for some reason?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (loudgli)*

So i was doing some cleaning under the hood and decided to write down my MAF PART #. Bosch # 0 280 218 017 VAG # 071 906 461 B . This is a 2.8L VR6 MAF HOUSING. I bought my kit BRAND NEW from PRO IMPORTS and that is the MAF housing it came with. DOes Pro Imports use the housing and switch out the sensor for a 1.8t one themselves? How different are the actual vr6 sensor from the 1.8t sensor? When i got my kit everything looked brand new and the MAF housing did not look like it was tampered with so i'm confused now. GIAC recommends the actual AUDI TT 225 MAF housing and sensor.














http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:02 PM 4-29-2007_

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:10 PM 4-29-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:26 PM 4-29-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_I believe the sensor that comes in the pi kit is a vr6. Thats atleast what I got from beachball6. I dont understand why it would come with it if its setup for a tt maf. If you want to try another vr6 one let me know. Ill let u borrow it. I would deffinately suggest trying a j valve also. We are apples and oranges but my car runs alot better.
BTW what is everyone seeing for vacuum at idle? I never see more than 17. Seemed kinda low to me for some reason? 

i assure you its a TT maf with the PI kit. this i know for a fact


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Bosch # 0 280 218 017 VAG # 071 906 461 B . This is a 2.8L VR6 MAF HOUSING. I bought my kit BRAND NEW from PRO IMPORTS and that is the MAF housing it came with. DOes Pro Imports use the housing and switch out the sensor for a 1.8t one themselves? The audi TT 225 MAF part # is 06A 906 461 EX.


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:45 PM 4-29-2007_


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

they may have sent you the wrong one then, they dont mix and mach housings with sensors, with sou not there anymore i bet some things are getting mixed up now


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## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

The TT225 maf I have is part# 0 280 218 065 and 06A 906 461 M 


_Modified by Bluebomber at 5:49 PM 4-29-2007_


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
i assure you its a TT maf with the PI kit. this i know for a fact









I cant imagine they are putting a tt sensor in a vr6 housing. That would make no sense. I know the maf I got is a vr6. Beachball said it was the original with the kit. And if 01gtiaww has one then that makes atleast two. ?


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bluebomber* »_The TT225 maf I have is part# 0 280 218 065 and 06A 906 461 M 

_Modified by Bluebomber at 5:49 PM 4-29-2007_

The tt maf should end in "EX"


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_
The tt maf should end in "EX"

"E" is the end of the part #, the "X" stands for re-manufactured.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

mine didnt end in EX and i got it from a dealer, if it ends in X that means its a reman usually


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

so theres more confusion. Some people have M some have E for tt maf. B seems to be stardard for vr6..I think?


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Tonight I'll post up my MAF housing serial. I know for a fact my housing came out of a TT225. I don't know the sensor though. 
Seems like there is a lot of confusion about the mixing and matching of stuff here... so I still HIGHLY doubt that me not having a TT MAF sensor is my issue.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I don't know but i am about to write Pro Imports an email to see what is up with this. I bought my kit brand new from Pro Imports. All I know is that the part # on my MAF is Bosch # 0 280 218 017 and VAG# 071 906 461 B.And this is a 2.8L VR6 MAF. My car has no major issues running with this MAF. The only problem i have is that the idle dips a little when I come to a red light. I know that beachball also had this same MAF on his Pro Imports kit. And when i called I spoke to Dan and Pat and they guaranteed me that they package all the kits themselves. So i dont see how they could make the same mistake more than once. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:26 PM 4-29-2007_

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:27 PM 4-29-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:28 PM 4-29-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Tonight I'll post up my MAF housing serial. I know for a fact my housing came out of a TT225. I don't know the sensor though. 
Seems like there is a lot of confusion about the mixing and matching of stuff here... so I still HIGHLY doubt that me not having a TT MAF sensor is my issue.

we have already told you its not your issue


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

I have 2 vr6 housings PN#:
0 280 218 017
071 906 461 B
0 280 218 071
07C 906 461

just make sure you are using the correct sensor, as the housings are all the same size TT225 and VR6 (the 24v housings are also the same size) I've sold a few dozen of these...
check the maf PN# here is one for a VR6 E 00C 2G2 032 _ 281 07 3 A
*the sensor is what is most important*...I am not sure what the TT225 sensor PN# is, as I don't run one of them and haven't had them in my hand
Pro-Imports could have just used the VR6 housing or the TT225 housing might have the same PN#...


----------



## Maxpowerz (Feb 9, 2004)

what kind of boost spikes are you guys seeing for the k04 20s? and how much boost does it hold?


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## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (Maxpowerz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Maxpowerz* »_what kind of boost spikes are you guys seeing for the k04 20s? and how much boost does it hold?

not to be a d***, but in the 36 pages of this thread there is at least 87 posts that mention boost spikes and how much they hold. Go back a couple pages and you'll see what everyone is boosting.


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (quiksilverGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *quiksilverGTI* »_
not to be a d***, but in the 36 pages of this thread there is at least 87 posts that mention boost spikes and how much they hold. Go back a couple pages and you'll see what everyone is boosting.









Man, what a d**k you are















EDIT: 1250 posts in this thread to be exact







And still not 1 single dyno










_Modified by SloJTI at 11:14 PM 4-29-2007_


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## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

i edited what i had typed at first, so yeah, it didn't come out like i had originally intended









_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
1250 posts in this thread to be exact







And still not 1 single dyno








_Modified by SloJTI at 11:14 PM 4-29-2007_
 
i would post my dyno sheet, but my torque spike broke the dyno, damn j valve and wrong maf combination


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## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (quiksilverGTI)*

there is a dyno on page 26 and 28....


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (bmxp)*

OK people I took it upon myself to write Pro-Imports an email and this is the respond i got. To clear up everything for everyone so everyone can be happy. You can thank me later. lol








Carlos,
The VR6 MAF you recieved is the correct MAF for the kit. If you are having any issues please contact us for complete technical support.
If you have any other questions please let us know. Cheers!
-Dan Pixton
Pro-Imports Inc
301-881-4905


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Correct MAF housing or MAF sensor? Or both? The sensor is more so in question here, no? 
VR6 MAF sensor on a 1.8t w/a k04 = weird?


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Correct MAF housing or MAF sensor? Or both? The sensor is more so in question here, no? 
VR6 MAF sensor on a 1.8t w/a k04 = weird?

He informed me that both are correct. It's a VR6 MAF housing and sensor. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I got it straight from the source. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif But i send him another email just to be really sure.


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 12:35 PM 4-30-2007_


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_
He informed me that both are correct. It's a VR6 MAF housing and sensor. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I got it straight from the source. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif But i send him another email just to be really sure.


in which part of the email did he inform you of this? all I see is that he said yes, VR6 MAF...which is vague


----------



## Nitro7853 (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

would you say that the o2o kit is reliable with the right software and setup.







Is it possible to run this setup without the intake mani?


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (Nitro7853)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Nitro7853* »_would you say that the o2o kit is reliable with the right software and setup.







Is it possible to run this setup without the intake mani?


ummm... I don't think any car can run with out an intake mani unless it has ITB's...


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
in which part of the email did he inform you of this? all I see is that he said yes, VR6 MAF...which is vague

Because in the email i sent him i clearly made it clear that i was asking about the MAF housing and sensor not just the housing. I sent him another email to make sure. And if you look at the email he sent it says VR6 MAF as a whole not MAF housing. I'm calling them as I type this up. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 2:05 PM 4-30-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 2:23 PM 4-30-2007_


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

I just got off the phone with PAT at Pro Imports and he said IT IS A *VR6 housing and sensor*. The MAF's that come in the kit if you bought it brand new is brand new and sealed and they are not tampered with in any way The kit and SW was designed to run on the vr6 housing and sensor. You guys can call him for yourselves. I did my part. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 2:17 PM 4-30-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 2:22 PM 4-30-2007_


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_I just got off the phone with PAT at Pro Imports and he said IT IS A *VR6 housing and sensor*. The MAF's that come in the kit if you bought it brand new is brand new and sealed and they are not tampered with in any way The kit and SW was designed to run on the vr6 housing and sensor. You guys can call him for yourselves. I did my part. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 2:17 PM 4-30-2007_

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 2:22 PM 4-30-2007_

that's different that they'd use a VR6 sensor...the 12v was rated to what 174hp, I presume those are the ones they usually send with this kit? Why whouldn't they use something that is meant for 180hp??? Maybe it was easier to calibrate...
oh and I found another tire that might fit 16's, but these are slicks although they keep calling them drag radials: http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Ditto that. I called him today as well. I got a slightly different story, but barely.
I was told that some have TT225 MAF housings + sensors and some have VR MAF housings and sensors and that either will work fine w/the SW. It's sort of luck of the draw.







So... I'm going to look for a VR sensor and give it a try instead. They're a lot easier to find and cheaper to buy. That makes no sense to me though.




























http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif















Who knows... time to try that though and then maybe my boost will fix itself up or something. Different MAF sensor and relogging hopefully in my near future...


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_ So... I'm going to look for a VR sensor and give it a try instead. They're a lot easier to find and cheaper to buy

You can borrow the one I have if you want. Paypal me like five bucks to cover shipping. Let me know


_Modified by loudgli at 4:12 PM 4-30-2007_


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_
You can borrow the one I have if you want. Paypal me like five bucks to cover shipping. Let me know

_Modified by loudgli at 4:04 PM 4-30-2007_

don't worry...I have one for him to test







he's a local to me...


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

Val always has me covered and beat to the punch. Thanks again man http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
that's different that they'd use a VR6 sensor...the 12v was rated to what 174hp, I presume those are the ones they usually send with this kit?

Would'nt a 24valve vr6 maf be the best choice? I believe its rated at 200hp. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif How would the r32 MAF work? Damn it we forgot to ask them which VR6 MAF it was.
















_Modified by 01gtiaww at 6:43 PM 4-30-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 6:44 PM 4-30-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Why would they bother getting a 24v instead of a 12v MAF? Did they tell you it was a 24v or just a VR6 MAF? Actually, I'm guessing they're probably the same setup anyhow.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*



04VDubGLI said:


> Why would they bother getting a 24v instead of a 12v MAF? Did they tell you it was a 24v or just a VR6 MAF? Actually, I'm guessing they're probably the same setup anyhow. [/QUOTE
> 
> Part #?
> 
> ...


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

posted a thread a minute ago but for the readers here. help!!
So as it states. Started off to work this morning and from about 8-10 vacuum into boost I have a high pitched whistle coming from what sounds to diffinately be the passenger side of the car.
The car runs fine. Ive got almost 20 pounds of vacuum at idle. Ive checked all my intercooler pipes. I checked my downpipe bolts. I checked my dv valve.
I put air pressure into the intercooler system through the j valve line and have no exit except through the air filter. 
The noise for the most part sounds like its coming from the back of the engine but its hard to diagnose while parked because you cant keep a load on the car. But going down the road it sounds like a terrible ground loop coming out of your speaker. 
any ideas?


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Whenever I kept blowing off my IC pipe it sounded mean as hell... but it was more or less a really loud whistle. I could hold vac fine when I did that btw. The thing was it kept lining up the IC piping when not in boost, it was just when it was boosting that they were seperating. Ah... that'd be about my best guess. Downhill from there.


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I just took the "charge" turbo outlet pipe completely off. Reved the snot out of it and WHISTLEEEEEEEEEE" like a mofo. I cant imagine its a leek because it sounds exactly the same as if I was fully plumbed. If that makes sense. Im worried now


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (loudgli)*

I would NOT suggest doing that ever again. You can over spool the turbo by revving it and spooling it w/o feedback from the charge piping. It's actually bad for the turbo to have a boost leak and boost. It won't really know what's going on w/boost and therefore could end up over spooling and dying. Correct me if I'm wrong in this, but I'm pretty sure that's definitely possible to do if you have a leak and hit "boost" even though your car obviously would not be boosting.


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_I would NOT suggest doing that ever again. You can over spool the turbo by revving it and spooling it w/o feedback from the charge piping. It's actually bad for the turbo to have a boost leak and boost. It won't really know what's going on w/boost and therefore could end up over spooling and dying. Correct me if I'm wrong in this, but I'm pretty sure that's definitely possible to do if you have a leak and hit "boost" even though your car obviously would not be boosting.

Point taken. I was pretty upset last night. Trying pretty much anything I could think of. When I reved it up it still made little to no "boost" as it did before. I was just trying to get an idea whether it was a leak or not that was causing the whistle. I am pretty confident it is not. Being as how when I create a massive "leak" the car sounds the same. Guess Ill call my shop today to see if they can get it in. Thanks


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_Would'nt a 24valve vr6 maf be the best choice? I believe its rated at 200hp. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif How would the r32 MAF work? Damn it we forgot to ask them which VR6 MAF it was.
















_Modified by 01gtiaww at 6:43 PM 4-30-2007_

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 6:44 PM 4-30-2007_

actually the TT225 maf would be best to use as it's rated to, you guessed it 225hp








optimally REVO would have used a 2.7TT maf as it's rated higher...since they are rated to like 250hp IIRC and that's what this turbo is suppose to produce


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
actually the TT225 maf would be best to use as it's rated to, you guessed it 225hp








optimally REVO would have used a 2.7TT maf as it's rated higher...since they are rated to like 250hp IIRC and that's what this turbo is suppose to produce

How about the 3.2 tt MAF which is the same as the r32 MAF? It's pretty cheap. I could get one for 100 bucks. How would this work? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

honestly, I think most of these maf's are interchangeable...most will disagree with me on this...I'd still use the MAF that the SW was written for...I just find it hard to believe they used a 12v vr6 maf


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_honestly, I think most of these maf's are interchangeable...most will disagree with me on this...I'd still use the MAF that the SW was written for...I just find it hard to believe they used a 12v vr6 maf









Is it a 12v? Is the part number for a 12v or 24v? I want to try the 3.2tt/ r32 maf since they are also vr6. I believe the 3.2 tt quattro is rated at 250 bhp. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

They have told me, and charger dude confirms that the SW was written for the TT225 MAF. They probably figured they could save a few bucks by shipping out the VR MAFs since they work. I've heard the story change a few times froom this source we speak of.








Don't mean to be the conspiracy theorist...


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## Gberg888GLI (Nov 1, 2006)

*Re: (nuther337)*

Where can we get a ko4-02x kit now? I cant seem the find the equalizer kit anymore and the pro-imports site changed soo much i cant figure out how to get the their cataloge of parts and kits...
Can someone point me to another one?
Thx.
PS. The kinetic Manifold wont work with it right?
Where can i get the TT 225 parts if i need to build my own kit?


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_
Is it a 12v? Is the part number for a 12v or 24v? I want to try the 3.2tt/ r32 maf since they are also vr6. I believe the 3.2 tt quattro is rated at 250 bhp. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


I am not as familiar with the kit as some as I don't have one, I only got involved in this thread because of 04VDUBGLI ... from what I was told they use a 12v vr6 sensor...and like I said before, any of these sensors would work on your car...it's just to what degree for fueling purposes...this kit was designed around the TT225 maf as was confirmed yesterday by 04VDUBGLI...some people have gotten different responses like the VR6 sensors are used...in all honesty any one of these sensors that are around the 200hp mark should do the job reasonably well...so, I don't see why a 3.2L TT maf wouldn't work as long as the housing isn't bigger then 3.0 OD and 2.75 ID http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

r32 maf has a 3"id, which is too big for any sw written for this setup.
i know PI cut corners using the white tops so them sending out vr mafs to safe a buck is no surprise to me


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_r32 maf has a 3"id, which is too big for any sw written for this setup.
i know PI cut corners using the white tops so them sending out vr mafs to safe a buck is no surprise to me


well, that throws that idea out...thx for the confirmation...the sensor might still work ok, just don't use the housing for sure!
and for anyone that might be interested to see how their cars perform, it'd be nice to see some 1.8T BT representation as their is a 1.8T specific class: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3210661


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## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

Just got Revo BT installed, car pulls strong although i think i may need to try the J valve, the boost isnt exactly holding 20lbs to redline. Do you Revo guys use the j valve?
I'm hitting full boost at around 3800RPMs, i think i may need to do some Lemmiwinks twinks seems like it should spool quicker.


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

Welcome to my life story... You should have "full boost" by like 2500rpms. I bet you have the same issues as me. We should start a club.
3800-4000rpms is exactly when mine hits boost, before that 10psi FTW. Weak sauce.


----------



## Gberg888GLI (Nov 1, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

How was the install for this kit? Anyone do it themselves? Can you do it yourself? If not how much should it cost to have it installed?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I hated the install when I did it. I spaced it out over a few days b/c of school/work. However, in hindsight... it wasn't very bad. I'd do it again - if someone paid me, I mean. First timers... (as I was) probably should expect like a day project w/ALL possible tools/parts. Second timers, probably could get it done in like 4-5hrs alone or 3-4 w/a friend. 
Install cost SHOULD run like $200-300 IMO (it's really only like a 2-3hr job for a shop that's experienced - as someone said earlier). However, a lot of places like to rape people and try to pull like $600 on the job.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_Just got Revo BT installed, car pulls strong although i think i may need to try the J valve, the boost isnt exactly holding 20lbs to redline. Do you Revo guys use the j valve?
I'm hitting full boost at around 3800RPMs, i think i may need to do some Lemmiwinks twinks seems like it should spool quicker.

I use the J valve with a MBC inline. I have no issues whatsoever.


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Gberg888GLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Gberg888GLI* »_How was the install for this kit? Anyone do it themselves? Can you do it yourself? If not how much should it cost to have it installed?

I did it myself. I've installed and uninstalled 5 times. But just cause my first k04-20 was messed up with a bad seal. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Nitro7853 (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_

ummm... I don't think any car can run with out an intake mani unless it has ITB's...















 I wasn't talking about running without one







I was talking about running this setup without the upgraded tt mani ... sorry I wasn't more specific lol


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_
I use the J valve with a MBC inline. I have no issues whatsoever.









with REVO the MBC is what solves issues...their N75 technique seem to be lacking...or they just can't control N75 duty cycle very well...


----------



## Ub3rN3rd (Feb 3, 2004)

Damn I am trying to read through all these pages and founding out what i really need to have k04-20 is the turbo and manifold. But then i read i am going to need injectors and maf? confuse what page is it on where it tells you all the parts needed for a k04-20


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (Ub3rN3rd)*

go to the pro-imports site...they have everything you need listed


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_go to the pro-imports site...they have everything you need listed

Pro-Imports site has changed drastically. It is nothing like be4. You can't even get in there catalog. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_
Pro-Imports site has changed drastically. It is nothing like be4. You can't even get in there catalog. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 

I fixed that for you


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_
Pro-Imports site has changed drastically. It is nothing like be4. You can't even get in *their* catalog. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 

I'll change it for both of you


----------



## Ub3rN3rd (Feb 3, 2004)

Yup pro-imports did not help me


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Ub3rN3rd)*

Page 20 of this thread has some of our setups and all the hardware you will need. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...ge=20


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

so do i run an MBC inline with a J valve or does it matter? or can i run the MBC alone with no N75?


----------



## EF9Si (Dec 12, 2003)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

Would this turbo work with GIAC X+ chip?


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

whats the best chip for my k04 setup? how much boost will it run, and spike? how much power can i make? where do i get the stuff needed for this kit?
i love how people cant read these days. i am taking this thread off my watched topics now


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_whats the best chip for my k04 setup? how much boost will it run, and spike? how much power can i make? where do i get the stuff needed for this kit?
i love how people cant read these days. i am taking this thread off my watched topics now

haha, I was thinking the same thing. Those kind of questions are typical of Vortex. Lie and say you searched, then ask the same question that 100 other people have. 
Read people, don't just drop into a 40+ page thread and ask questions that have already been answered


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_so do i run an MBC inline with a J valve or does it matter? or can i run the MBC alone with no N75?

Since you have REVO BT SW and not k04-20 sw you have to try all configurations. Mine is setup with MBC inline with J valve. There are like 4 configurations you can try. *We already discussed this on page 30 and 31.* http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Am I gonna have to break this thread up into chapters and include an index?









_Modified by 01gtiaww at 6:30 AM 5-2-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 6:30 AM 5-2-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_
Since you have REVO BT SW and not k04-20 sw you have to try all configurations. Mine is setup with MBC inline with J valve. There are like 4 configurations you can try. *We already discussed this on page 30 and 31.* http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Am I gonna have to break this thread up into chapters and include an index?









_Modified by 01gtiaww at 6:30 AM 5-2-2007_

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 6:30 AM 5-2-2007_


lol looks like you might have too


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

loud gli sent a pm and an e-mail. everything should work out for you.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif PI agian.


----------



## Gberg888GLI (Nov 1, 2006)

*Re: (beachball6)*

when is the PI site going to be working again?


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (Gberg888GLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Gberg888GLI* »_when is the PI site going to be working again?


I mentioned it to Dan several weeks ago and said something about the webmaster people or whoever. Id be on that ..too many people want to buy parts to not have that up and running.

Update on my issue. As of now the car is normal. I guess it was a fluke, I cant figure it out. Start it yesterday to go to lunch and everything is normal. Makes no sense to me. Hope it stays that way.


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_
I mentioned it to Dan several weeks ago and said something about the webmaster people or whoever. Id be on that ..too many people want to buy parts to not have that up and running.


Yeah, I'd be furious with whoever is in charge of the website if I were them. And on top of that, I had to call them three times before I finally got a hold of someone who could help me order parts...


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

TTT


----------



## sirwolfk04 (Jul 24, 2006)

*Re:*

I called my local REVO dealer beacause i have everything ready to flash stage3. I finaly got my 4bar FPR. I bought REVO stage 1 three years ago, and they told me upgrades were 50$ or the difference between stage 1 to 3. Thats fair. But now they told me that they have changed their policy and i need to pay for the entire thing AGAIN !








That is not fair !! They can change their policy, but they should keep their old policy for old client that bought the sw before they changed the policy... that makes no sens !! I dont want to pay 700$ again !!


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: Re: (sirwolfk04)*

no dyno yet


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

As soon as someone pays for a dyno I'll get one. Though w/my current boost issues it may not be the most accurate, but I'll happily get one.
I wouldn't be surprised if they tried to make you pay for the whole thing... SW companies are a giant ripoff. 
Oh yeah, for anyone who cares to hear about my continued boost issues, I called Revo the other day and talked to someone on the phone. Well, they pretty much said that I need to bypass my N249 and that if that doesn't fix whatever issues I have then it's hardware related. I explained to them that it works fine w/a MBC in place and that my fuel trims are all fine and they said that I probably have a boost leak and that it's probably all hardware related.... I give up.
I guess I'm going to cap everything that looks like a vacuum line and try again haha. Seriously though... VAC is overrated.


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*



04VDubGLI said:


> As soon as someone pays for a dyno I'll get one. Though w/my current boost issues it may not be the most accurate, but I'll happily get one.
> 
> **** if u can get to fl. by 5:00 ill pay for yur dyno.
> 
> ...


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: Re: (double0vr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *double0vr6* »_no dyno yet









give me about two weeks and you'll have a K04-020 dyno


----------



## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_
give me about two weeks and you'll have a K04-020 dyno









should be right around 40 pages by then...just in time, because once it hits 41 pages, it becomes excessive.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

My official priority is to make sure we're over 40 pages before there is a dyno then


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: Re: (GiacGtiAgain)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GiacGtiAgain* »_
should be right around 40 pages by then...just in time, because once it hits 41 pages, it becomes excessive.


----------



## TurboGTi222 (Sep 5, 2006)

*Re: Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_
give me about two weeks and you'll have a K04-020 dyno








Dear GOD i hope u don't work for ATP........ we may NEVER see a dyno










_Modified by TurboGTi222 at 1:13 PM 5-3-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: Re: (TurboGTi222)*

I didnt get a chance to get you that log yet... I'm going to though - next time I log.


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: Re: (TurboGTi222)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TurboGTi222* »_Dear GOD i hope u don't work for ATP........ we may NEVER see a dyno









_Modified by TurboGTi222 at 1:13 PM 5-3-2007_

No way, right now I'm more than upset with ATP... I'm helping my buddy build a K04-020 for his car and we will hit the dyno, just give me a little bit of time. We're still waiting on the parts from Pro-Imports to arrive http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_I didnt get a chance to get you that log yet... I'm going to though - next time I log.


U didn't show up for the dyno man hahahahah well i hit my goal my car and the ko4-001 made a lil over 250whp on mustang dyno but i also learned that my car doesn't like any timing change.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3218325


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: Re: (double0vr6)*

I was on my way down and then I remember that I had to do some homeworks for today. I got to VA and turned around.
Those are some decent numbers for an 001. I wonder what an 020 w/meth + 110oct would make.


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_I was on my way down and then I remember that I had to do some homeworks for today. I got to VA and turned around.
Those are some decent numbers for an 001. I wonder what an 020 w/meth + 110oct would make.

hahahaha oh man my aunt live in VA well u miss out i would have hook it up and got u to dyno for 20 buck hahaha i know the guys at that shop pretty well. Yea with k-20 prob see somthing like 270-28-0 maybe


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Who all runs a VR6 MAF sensor w/their setup?
I have one from Val and I put it in... seems like there's some weird like hesitation almost at partial throttle or something. Though it does seem like it may have helped, but not corrected, the boost issue I was having. I need to get it out and drive it around more, but that was my initial thought.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I run a VR6 MAF but i have no issues at all. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Did you drive it around enough for the computer to adapt, did you do a ecu reset?


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Who all runs a VR6 MAF sensor w/their setup?
I have one from Val and I put it in... seems like there's some weird like hesitation almost at partial throttle or something. Though it does seem like it may have helped, but not corrected, the boost issue I was having. I need to get it out and drive it around more, but that was my initial thought.


let your car adjust to it...1 night isn't enough...it needs a few drive cycles...did you reset the ecu before you drove around?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

I didn't reset the ECU, no. I actually put it in around 1:30 this afternoon. Haha. I've just driven around between classes a little.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_I didn't reset the ECU, no. I actually put it in around 1:30 this afternoon. Haha. I've just driven around between classes a little. 

You need to reset ECU and take that hsit out on the highway and do some real miles. At least 3 full drive cycles. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_ I wonder what an 020 w/meth + 110oct would make.


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: Re: (beachball6)*

eh.. that still got some potential... i don't see any thing wrong








Would make for a good paper weight or a coffee table ornament


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: Re: (beachball6)*

whose car did that come out of?
guessing that is what would happen... prob like 300-320whp and like 500wtq? haha. Probably would do like 350wtq. 
That would make me cry... like a lot.


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: Re: (04VDubGLI)*

i dunno, i googled bent rod http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: Re: (beachball6)*

That ISH is Bananas! B-A-N-A-N-A-S! 
Seriously though... bet that guy's head was pretty beat up?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Dont worry guys soon i will be getting a new daily driver and the GTI will be dedicated just as a project car but i will keep it on the k04-20. I will be upgrading rods and pistons and cranking up the water/meth with 100 oct. I'll be adding some slicks to see what a k04-20 can really do. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: Re: (01gtiaww)*

I vote 10:1 CR. If I was going to keep a ST I would definitely up the CR even more.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Well, I'm sure everyone is getting tired of hearing me complain about the boost of my car... but here we go again. If anyone can make sense of all of the things that I've posted and add them up to solve my problem I would love them.
So, to start with some background info. I bypassed my N249 by tapping the vac line @ the top of the TB. So that's out of the way. I have capped off 2 or 3 of the lines coming from the combi. I've capped off some sort of hard line right by the FPR. 
FORGOT TO MENTION EDIT: I also tried removing the surge tank from my valve cover. Car ran identically. So, if it's going to do the 2 stage BS I'd rather have that there. In case someone wants to say that is causing the issues.
Ok, so all of this said my car still would do the 2 stage boosting. It still would taper off to like 15-16psi @ redline. So I went ahead and put the MBC in place of the N75 again tonight since last time I didn't really give it much time in there. So...I started by loosening the MBC as loose as it'll go (so the ball just stopped being audible). Put it in place and I instantly found that my boost came on ASAP and that it was spiking like 24-25 and sitting around 20psi. However, it was still tapering down @ redline to like 14-15psi now. Which makes even less sense. At least at this point I had some worthwhile boost before 4k though. Part throttle was hellish. I never realized how much I use it until I kept getting shuddering and once or twice some good ole compressor surge. So this is NOT going to be a permanent thing. Apparently my driving style is not very conducive to this setup. So, my issue now is with a MBC in there shouldn't I be able to put the boost exactly where I want it and hold it there all day long? Why am I still seeing fluctuations? Why when the spring is completely loose does the car still even produce this much boost? I was expecting like 11psi (as I think that's what the MBC is rated @). The spikes in higher gears seem like they'd be deadly for rods. I only boosted once to make sure it would actually reach 20psi before 4k and let me tell you, it reaches it easily @ like 2500rpms and then some. It stuck it @ 25psi for a little and then I figured I would like to have a car tomorrow still.
Anyone have any clues one what to do next? I guess the next plan may be to try to put my N75 back in, or try an N75J/C/H/WTF. I guess maybe I'll try an overboost or something.
IMO, it's software related. However, REVO told me that it's hardware and PI told me it's hardware. As far as I'm concerned neither one could give a **** less about my car and it's easier for them to say HW, not their SW. I like how when I called REVO the guy I talked to actually said that PI's kit was designed for only their HW. And I was like, how much different can it be? I have an APR FMIC, not an EVOMS. Please kill me? Uh... the only thing I don't have that PI has is a SAMCO TIP for it. I just have the stock one from an 02 w/a full 3" intake. Doubt the TIP is causing these issues.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I had that kind of problem and it turned out to be a huge gash in one of the wastegate hoses. It's not always so easy to see, I suggest that you take all of those hoses out completely and put fresh ones from your local autozone or wherever. I mean all of them, including the one that goes onto the wastegate actuator itself. That one was the problem for me.
If you can hear your DV go pissshh after you let off the throttle fast then that hose and everything related (vac canister, N249, etc) is good. The only way you can have boost that high with the MBC turned all the way down is if enough air is leaking out between the charge pipe and the wastegate to cause the wastegate not to open. I.e., you would have to loose something like 15-20lbs of air to get 26lbs of boost with the MBC turned all the way down. Again, that exact same thing happened to me and as soon as I fixed it, things were way better.










_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 6:03 AM 5-6-2007_


----------



## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

k04-020 FTL


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (GiacGtiAgain)*

K04-020 w/REVO FTL!
I'm going to call REVO again on Monday and complain some more I think. I'm going to replace my vac line from the charge pipe and to the WG because that's simple enough and I guess it's possible that one may have a leak in it causing issues.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

It does not sound SW related to me either. I to think its HW related. Go out buy some new vacuum hoses and replace them all. I mean noone can really tell you what it is without really being in the car. My last option would be to take a drive out to PI and have them look at the car for themselves. I mean its kinda hard to MESS up a flash. I too had problems at first and i was quick to blame the SW. At the end it was not the SW but the HW. By the way some of my problems were created by loose clamps around the vacuum hoses. especially the ones underneath the intake manifold. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

So, after my previous reply to 04vdubgli, I hop in my car to go to work. I'm cruising along and as I go to merge onto the interstate, My car is not boosting and i hear a loud SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS sound coming from my side. Sound was like if i had punctured a tire and all the air was coming out SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSs. So I pull over to the next rest area and open my hood and i start searching for vac leaks and nothing. Finally, I start fondling the rubber red charge pipe that goes from turbo to upper intercooler pipe and it had a huge tear in it. Anyway, who has one of these to sell me. I saw a while ago that someone had one for sale.














VAG part# 06A 145 832L FORGE sells the replacement below. 









_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:47 AM 5-7-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:02 AM 5-7-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I ripped through an elbow before I bought the silicone one I have now. I had a rubber on there that I thought would be fine, but I was wrong. Ripped that thing apart. I actually think it would have lasted long w/heat shielding on it.
I'm going to go through and check all of my connections and replace the charge pipe line and the WG line. Maybe that'll do it. I just don't understand how my car will hold 20psi @ any point if I have a boost leak. But, it doesn't hurt to check for one, so I may as well. I'm pretty sure my running total of time wasted on this trying to fix my issue has been ridiculous - so what's some more time? I'm going to try to do a boost pressure test as well maybe and see if that gets me anywhere.


----------



## sirwolfk04 (Jul 24, 2006)

*Re:*

To all owner of REVO stage1 that bought it before 2006 and wants to upgrade to stage3 :
On REVO's site, they say that:
http://www.revotechnik.com/pro....aspx
Revo Stage 3 software is available from your local Revo dealer. 
Revo stage 3 software is not available as an upgrade to existing Revo software. 
So you have to pay the full price for a stage3 even if you had stage1. But when i bought stage1 in 2005, REVO told me the upgrade were only 50$ or the difference between the stage1 and the new stage. So i was a bit angry to pay again for the FULL sw. My local dealer replied me with good news. Since i bought the software in 2005 (when their policy were not the same) i can have the upgrade. I just have to pay the difference between stage1 and 3. I just need to have my old bill as a prove of purchase.
BTW.. I sent my ECU# to REVO and they said they don't a SW for my ECU. It's a ATC engine (Audi TT 180). So i have to dump my existing Stage1 and send it to them, and they gonna make me a custom stage3 for me http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif










_Modified by sirwolfk04 at 8:42 AM 5-7-2007_


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I have heat shield on mine and it still tore apart. I guess my clamp was on too tight.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Seriously... just don't even clamp it. It doesn't need it anyhow








I need to get some t-bolts for mine. I think the regular clamps are holding up ok, but I may as well t-bolt it down if I'm going to go through and check for boost leaks and replace some vac lines. I would really like for my car to run 100%


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

looks like he just sold it








http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3209760


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

you should get the forge version of the red hose. might as well cause it's just as good, it's less expensive and it even looks better..








The biggest plus to me is the fact that it doesn't require the use of a thin crappy hose clamp. The audi red hose has grooves that don't accept t-bolt clamps.


_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 11:18 AM 5-7-2007_


----------



## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Well, I'm sure everyone is getting tired of hearing me complain about the boost of my car... but here we go again. If anyone can make sense of all of the things that I've posted and add them up to solve my problem I would love them.
So, to start with some background info. I bypassed my N249 by tapping the vac line @ the top of the TB. So that's out of the way. I have capped off 2 or 3 of the lines coming from the combi. I've capped off some sort of hard line right by the FPR. 
FORGOT TO MENTION EDIT: I also tried removing the surge tank from my valve cover. Car ran identically. So, if it's going to do the 2 stage BS I'd rather have that there. In case someone wants to say that is causing the issues.
Ok, so all of this said my car still would do the 2 stage boosting. It still would taper off to like 15-16psi @ redline. So I went ahead and put the MBC in place of the N75 again tonight since last time I didn't really give it much time in there. So...I started by loosening the MBC as loose as it'll go (so the ball just stopped being audible). Put it in place and I instantly found that my boost came on ASAP and that it was spiking like 24-25 and sitting around 20psi. However, it was still tapering down @ redline to like 14-15psi now. Which makes even less sense. At least at this point I had some worthwhile boost before 4k though. Part throttle was hellish. I never realized how much I use it until I kept getting shuddering and once or twice some good ole compressor surge. So this is NOT going to be a permanent thing. Apparently my driving style is not very conducive to this setup. So, my issue now is with a MBC in there shouldn't I be able to put the boost exactly where I want it and hold it there all day long? Why am I still seeing fluctuations? Why when the spring is completely loose does the car still even produce this much boost? I was expecting like 11psi (as I think that's what the MBC is rated @). The spikes in higher gears seem like they'd be deadly for rods. I only boosted once to make sure it would actually reach 20psi before 4k and let me tell you, it reaches it easily @ like 2500rpms and then some. It stuck it @ 25psi for a little and then I figured I would like to have a car tomorrow still.
Anyone have any clues one what to do next? I guess the next plan may be to try to put my N75 back in, or try an N75J/C/H/WTF. I guess maybe I'll try an overboost or something.
IMO, it's software related. However, REVO told me that it's hardware and PI told me it's hardware. As far as I'm concerned neither one could give a **** less about my car and it's easier for them to say HW, not their SW. I like how when I called REVO the guy I talked to actually said that PI's kit was designed for only their HW. And I was like, how much different can it be? I have an APR FMIC, not an EVOMS. Please kill me? Uh... the only thing I don't have that PI has is a SAMCO TIP for it. I just have the stock one from an 02 w/a full 3" intake. Doubt the TIP is causing these issues.


well dont feel alone, cause i have the same identical problem. My car ran alot better once i got another DV. I had a forge 007(real old), then i got a forge DVR which also ran about the same. Then i got the new forge 007 valve and the car felt alot better. then i went back in and tightened everything and redid all my hoses and surprise boost still sucks. Im running the mbc instead of the n75 and i haave no midthrottle. im dealing with it cause im sick of dealing with ****ty boost. Once it got warmer outside, id see my boost guage hit the damn VDO symbol and sit there. I cant even believe that the turbo can boost so much. made me real mad that a BOLT ON KIT isnt a bolt on kit at all. i have still not felt what it can do and ive had this turbo in the car since it first came out. i had one of the first kits sold by P.I.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_you should get the forge version of the red hose. might as well cause it's just as good, it's less expensive and it even looks better..








The biggest plus to me is the fact that it doesn't require the use of a thin crappy hose clamp. The audi red hose has grooves that don't accept t-bolt clamps.

_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 11:18 AM 5-7-2007_


I called FORGE but they were on backorder. And it only cost 87.00 as opposed to the dealer wanting 230 something for the crappy rubber one.
Yeah that is what happened I had a regular clamp on it and it was so tight it slit the rubber hose. guess i will have to use some duct tape under the hose clamp till forge gets them back. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_

I called FORGE but they were on backorder. And it only cost 87.00 as opposed to the dealer wanting 230 something for the crappy rubber one.
Yeah that is what happened I had a regular clamp on it and it was so tight it slit the rubber hose. guess i will have to use some duct tape under the hose clamp till forge gets them back. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

do you guys not search the interweb???

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/category.php?cat=14
all the hoses you want/need for not even remotely the price that you guys are dishing out http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (Fuze911)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Fuze911* »_

well dont feel alone, cause i have the same identical problem. My car ran alot better once i got another DV. I had a forge 007(real old), then i got a forge DVR which also ran about the same. Then i got the new forge 007 valve and the car felt alot better. then i went back in and tightened everything and redid all my hoses and surprise boost still sucks. Im running the mbc instead of the n75 and i haave no midthrottle. im dealing with it cause im sick of dealing with ****ty boost. Once it got warmer outside, id see my boost guage hit the damn VDO symbol and sit there. I cant even believe that the turbo can boost so much. made me real mad that a BOLT ON KIT isnt a bolt on kit at all. i have still not felt what it can do and ive had this turbo in the car since it first came out. i had one of the first kits sold by P.I.

if enough of you call and complain about the boost issue, then they will do something...bitching on whoretex won't get a thing done http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
they are trying to save your guys rods for daily driving (don't even make stupid jokes about this) if you throw an MBC on there, it's good to go...
why hasn't anyone tried an MBC inline to see if it'll let it control PT boost and take over for the higher boost apps?


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (Fuze911)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Fuze911* »_

well dont feel alone, cause i have the same identical problem. My car ran alot better once i got another DV. I had a forge 007(real old), then i got a forge DVR which also ran about the same. Then i got the new forge 007 valve and the car felt alot better. then i went back in and tightened everything and redid all my hoses and surprise boost still sucks. Im running the mbc instead of the n75 and i haave no midthrottle. im dealing with it cause im sick of dealing with ****ty boost. Once it got warmer outside, id see my boost guage hit the damn VDO symbol and sit there. I cant even believe that the turbo can boost so much. made me real mad that a BOLT ON KIT isnt a bolt on kit at all. i have still not felt what it can do and ive had this turbo in the car since it first came out. i had one of the first kits sold by P.I.

this kits been out by PI since 2002, i know for a fact you were not one of the first kits http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I just typed up a big reply and it didn't post. 
I hate my wireless.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
do you guys not search the interweb???

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/category.php?cat=14
all the hoses you want/need for not even remotely the price that you guys are dishing out http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


Damnit!!














They have all of them *BUT* the one i need, which is a *90 degree reducer elbow from 2.75 to 2.00.*










_Modified by 01gtiaww at 7:00 PM 5-7-2007_


----------



## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
this kits been out by PI since 2002, i know for a fact you were not one of the first kits http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

damn i wrote a big response too but it didnt post...anyway when i was purchasing the kit there where only 2 other cars with the kit in MD so your right but locally, im right. Anyway, i redid the vacuum lines, tried the mbc every way possible. the only thing that made the car feel stronger was a new dv. i had a forge 007(old) then i got a forge DRV and it didnt make a difference. Then i bought a new forge 007 and the car felt way better. but the boost is still crazy. sometimes i holds at VDO and i let off cause i dont want to blow my car to peices.


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

I have one of the OEM red rubber reducer elbows from a TT 225 I'm not using. Hit me up with an IM if anyone needs it. It came with the K04-020 and Manifold for my buddies kit but he didn't use it since he has a Eurojet FMIC http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (Fuze911)*

Want to call REVO and bitch on the same days so they may realize something is up w/the SW? B/c IMO it's software related for my car.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (Fuze911)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Fuze911* »_
damn i wrote a big response too but it didnt post...anyway when i was purchasing the kit there where only 2 other cars with the kit in MD so your right but locally, im right. Anyway, i redid the vacuum lines, tried the mbc every way possible. the only thing that made the car feel stronger was a new dv. i had a forge 007(old) then i got a forge DRV and it didnt make a difference. Then i bought a new forge 007 and the car felt way better. but the boost is still crazy. sometimes i holds at VDO and i let off cause i dont want to blow my car to peices. 

fedor, its me jeremy, i have personally lended a hand in installing atleast 10 kits or so for cars in MD way before you even bought yours. just a thought


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

If you didn't change names every other day people may know who you are








Just kidding man.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Have you ever changed out DV valves? I'm about to purchase the new one that APR came out with. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i ran oem tt valve and loved it


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_i ran oem tt valve and loved it

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif N710 valve 
* you can find them on GAP for cheap still


----------



## UnoQuickDub (Feb 16, 2007)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif N710 valve 
* you can find them on GAP for cheap still

walk out with a new valve and a trendy pair of pants!
















what's up for l8r?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I like the noise my 007 makes.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (UnoQuickDub)*

I would opt for the shorts this time of year.
I owe you some Uncle Sam's. Let me know when you're in the area http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

IMO, I don't think my DV is leaking. It actually has gotten significantly louder and now I like the noise it makes even more. It sounds nifty








HAHA PWND PG 40!


----------



## UnoQuickDub (Feb 16, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_IMO, I don't think my DV is leaking. It actually has gotten significantly louder and now I like the noise it makes even more. It sounds nifty








HAHA PWND PG 40!

your DV is fine
my suggestion here is the following:
1. Put the REVO ecu up for sale.
2. Take the proceeds from it and pick up a GIAC K04-023 file.
3. be done with it.
I'll whoop your a$$ on Guitar Hero


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (UnoQuickDub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *UnoQuickDub* »_
your DV is fine
my suggestion here is the following:
1. Put the REVO ecu up for sale.
2. Take the proceeds from it and pick up a GIAC K04-023 file.
3. be done with it.
I'll whoop your a$$ on Guitar Hero









Oh no you didn't








It's on like Donkey Kong








At this stage in the game I've left voicemails on REVO's machine and no one has called me back. Everytime I call no one answers. I think they know it's me or something. I'm getting fed up. Should have gotten GIAC.


_Modified by 04VDubGLI at 12:16 AM 5-10-2007_


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

whats this talk about Guitar Hero??? If you can beat Jordan on expert for GH2 than come talk to me.lol


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

Haha medium FTW!


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Hm.... found this while looking for other things.
http://www.mjmturbos.com/K0406T3hybrid.htm
Weird?


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

it's not weird, just not very reliable source to get turbo's from http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## ErockBar1 (Apr 12, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_i ran oem tt valve and loved it

Hey Jeremy where's the ipod cable I paid you for a month ago and the monster mats that stiny778 paid you for?


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (UnoQuickDub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *UnoQuickDub* »_
your DV is fine
my suggestion here is the following:
1. Put the REVO ecu up for sale.
2. Take the proceeds from it and pick up a GIAC K04-023 file.
3. be done with it.
I'll whoop your a$$ on Guitar Hero









When he was looking to put this kit on his car, I told him to go with GIAC







Ran flawless for me http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Do what Mark says and get the GIAC file








And who plays Guitar Hero


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Yeah... I would have gotten GIAC in hindsight. I mean... I really don't like some of the things they told me and I HATED the fact that different places gave me different prices; however, REVO sucks. I still have yet to get a call back. I guess I'll call and try to complain again tomorrow. I'm so sick of the two stage boost. It's so much more fun to drive whenever it boosts straight to 20. That was the nice thing about the MBC... too bad all of the other things about running it sucked.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I ran GIAC off the n75 with absolutely NO issues. I am having a hard time dealing with the new sw because I got so used to having no probs. So the few I am having now frustrate me to no end


----------



## CandyWhiteTSi (Jul 22, 2004)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Wow.. I just got done reading this whole thread and my eyes hurt... But http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif for all of it! This thread is great! I was skeptical about this kit but I have been thinking about what my goals are, and this turbo seems almost perfect.. Stock turbo characteristics but with a little more oomph. Now I need to go to bed because I have a headache. I'll probably be thinking about this thread in my sleep! Haha...





























edit: Everyone knows GIAC is the best


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

So... I put my MBC inline w/the N75 on the charge pipe line. Now my car like to boost like 26psi? No more two stage. The MBC is all the way open (I think it's supposed to be like 11psi all the way open). But yeah, now my car just shoots up into the upper 20s and then slowly comes down to 20 and then continues to taper to [email protected] redline. It would seem to be IMO that Revo sucks and didn't do something right w/programming for the N75 or something. Anytime I block it or bypass it a little it does great. Revo sucks. I'm calling tomorrow and complaining.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I need a favor. Can a couple people with K04-023's count the number of threads fron the end nut to the end of the actuator rod? I need to put mine back where it was and I can't figure it out. I was able to count by feel, i ran my nail over each thread and counted 16. A picture would be cool too. It probably varies, I think the nuts are to calibrate the actuator but I need to get as close as possible to the correct position.
I'm getting some faint clacking sounds at high boost and someone suggested it might be the wastegate.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_I need a favor. Can a couple people with K04-023's count the number of threads fron the end nut to the end of the actuator rod? I need to put mine back where it was and I can't figure it out. I was able to count by feel, i ran my nail over each thread and counted 16. A picture would be cool too. It probably varies, I think the nuts are to calibrate the actuator but I need to get as close as possible to the correct position.
I'm getting some faint clacking sounds at high boost and someone suggested it might be the wastegate.









MIne is not set to its original position. I tightened it 1.5 turns. I will take a pic for you when i get home. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Ive got 2 k04-020s and they both show 15 threads. Hope that helps a lil http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Haha continuing on my saga of bypassing the N75 in some fashion... my gas mileage has improved since putting the MBC inline. Either my car is leaning out and like a hair from blowing up or it's running correctly. I seriously picked up like 3-4 mpg and I still was beating on it a little because now I don't have to wait for my boost. WTF?


----------



## UnoQuickDub (Feb 16, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_So... I put my MBC inline w/the N75 on the charge pipe line. Now my car like to boost like 26psi? No more two stage. The MBC is all the way open (I think it's supposed to be like 11psi all the way open). But yeah, now my car just shoots up into the upper 20s and then slowly comes down to 20 and then continues to taper to [email protected] redline. It would seem to be IMO that Revo sucks and didn't do something right w/programming for the N75 or something. Anytime I block it or bypass it a little it does great. Revo sucks. I'm calling tomorrow and complaining.

How is your part throttle.
If you would've listened to Val and I 2 weeks ago when we told you to do this...welllllll </end scolding>


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (UnoQuickDub)*

Part throttle is still sticky. It still kind of did what it wanted to. 
I talked to Val about doing this last time I saw him. I didn't think this is what you guys were saying when I talked to you. 
Oh, side note, I saw an orange cobalt ss that wanted some. 2.5" pulley he said - he got in front of me and I caught him and passed him (until one of my vac lines decided to be dumb and pop off). Thing was fast as hell.


----------



## UnoQuickDub (Feb 16, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Part throttle is still sticky. It still kind of did what it wanted to. 
I talked to Val about doing this last time I saw him. I didn't think this is what you guys were saying when I talked to you. 
Oh, side note, I saw an orange cobalt ss that wanted some. 2.5" pulley he said - he got in front of me and I caught him and passed him (until one of my vac lines decided to be dumb and pop off). Thing was fast as hell.

I was surprised at the K04-023 turbo when I drove it. Quicker than I thought.


----------



## CandyWhiteTSi (Jul 22, 2004)

*Re: (UnoQuickDub)*

I like hearing things like this ^ Not you 04dub I hate hearing about issues... But rather people saying they're surprised with this k04... I will be watching this thread http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (NightRDRGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NightRDRGLI* »_I like hearing things like this ^ Not you 04dub I hate hearing about issues... But rather people saying they're surprised with this k04... I will be watching this thread http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

the guy above that posted about the power, drove 04vdubgli's car :ROFL:


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

Apparently I have a tricky clutch















Once I get the SW worked out and get my intake mani on and all of my other little goodies, it should be pretty quick.


----------



## CandyWhiteTSi (Jul 22, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

what are you expecting with the intake mani?


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (NightRDRGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NightRDRGLI* »_what are you expecting with the intake mani? 

more air flow = more powA


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

8-10whp maybe? That may be a little generous, but that's the hope. 
Also, the fact that the ABD flows very equally across all of the cylinders as well.


----------



## CandyWhiteTSi (Jul 22, 2004)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
more air flow = more powA

well i realize this, but i was looking for a number figure... thanks 04dub...


----------



## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (NightRDRGLI)*

honestly after all the problems, even if it is quick, and even if you make 260ish whp which is generous...considering the time and money spent...was it worth it? im really not even trying to bash it at this point, id like to know if you honestly feel it was worth it or if there are days when you ask yourself why you didnt go with a t3s60 or something. i know a lot of this if SW related, but at the end of the day even when everything is sorted out, your car still isnt even going to be breaking 260ish whp, where at least with a super60 you could hit 300 whp and possibly make all tese headaches worth it.

all im saying is, going on the assumption that im making 200 whp right now on my stock turbo, you have experienced way too many issues for another 50-60 whp IMO.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (GiacGtiAgain)*

Yeah, there is definitely a point when you have to question the time. Frankly, I'm fed up with Revo and the SW BS. The nice thing about the k04 is that it's driveable. It seriously isn't much laggier than a k03s. 
I made 199whp and 232wtq w/my k03s. So I'd imagine I'm looking at about 40-50whp gain and about 50-60wtq. The other nice thing about this setup, espically in the case of the 20ths/GLI/337s, is that it's pretty well mated for the trans. I mean, it's not exactly a tt225 (if I had their rods I would run race gas everyday of my life), but the trans and clutch are basically the same so it's sort of worry free. I mean, my clutch has 47k on it (on the second trans as well) and I'm actually still not worrying much about clutch/pp/fw issues. I also don't worry much about axles or anything. I mean, for me, it's nice because it still spools up super quickly and it's within a "safe" range of my engine and trans IMO.


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

Hey i finally installed the J valve to see if that would help my boost issues but no luck. The car sputters and barely goes to 5 psi. Im not in limp mode but it sputters like crazy as if i am misfiring. Backfires more and drives like crap. Any ideas? should i just try running an MBC by itself? oh ya im running Revo BT


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

You were the other one w/the sweet boost like mine, correct? 
I'm calling Revo again today. Someone named George called me Friday but I missed the call so I'm going to call back and ask for him.
BTW, when I first start my car it feels like it's misfiring - which I figure is prob just Revo. Like the actual start sucks, but then once it gets out of the SAI cold start whenever I try moving it is when it seems like it's misfiring. Then after a min it stops. 


_Modified by 04VDubGLI at 2:38 PM 5-14-2007_


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_Hey i finally installed the J valve to see if that would help my boost issues but no luck. The car sputters and barely goes to 5 psi. Im not in limp mode but it sputters like crazy as if i am misfiring. Backfires more and drives like crap. Any ideas? should i just try running an MBC by itself? oh ya im running Revo BT

What codes are showing up? Could be coil pack issue, MAF issue, fuel injector issue, or spark plug issue. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Your symptoms sound more like either a MAF or coil pack related issue. Only things that cause the car to sputter and misfire is a bad MAF or bad coil pack. I just had this same problem with my buddy this morning. Car would sputter like crazy and had misfire on cylinder 4. Turned out to be a BAD MAF. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

My MAF is not plugged in. im running a 3" maf but with the stock 1.8t sensor. Should i throw in a TT sensor in there? or a VR?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_My MAF is not plugged in. im running a 3" maf but with the stock 1.8t sensor. Should i throw in a TT sensor in there? or a VR?

Are you going to plug it back in? If you are i would try a VR sensor first. Have you checked your coil packs lately? What codes are you showing?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Ok... so today I called Revo again. 
Here's what's going on. They won't even listen to me. Everyone who has ANY sort of boost issues PLEASE call them. George was like "You're the only problem we've ever had w/k04-020 SW." I KNOW there are others on here right now that have had them. So all of those people... please call Revo and ask about it. I know Bxmp has issues and I think that there are at least a couple of others. Everyone, please call Revo.


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Ok... so today I called Revo again. 
Here's what's going on. They won't even listen to me. Everyone who has ANY sort of boost issues PLEASE call them. George was like "You're the only problem we've ever had w/k04-020 SW." I KNOW there are others on here right now that have had them. So all of those people... please call Revo and ask about it. I know Bxmp has issues and I think that there are at least a couple of others. Everyone, please call Revo.


George is full of crap








I've called them a few times about the horrible cold start problems I've had with the REVO K04-02x software and the GT2X Eliminator kit. I'm honestly afraid of how the car is going to run once I get my K04-023 kit installed....
I can tell you right now, if I still have horrible cold start problems or any kind of boost issues when I get the kit installed I'm giving up on REVO and going GIAC K04-023 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_
Are you going to plug it back in? If you are i would try a VR sensor first. Have you checked your coil packs lately? What codes are you showing?

I havent checked the codes, but when it is sputtering the check engine light does not flicker on or off, so i dont think its a coilpack. I'm gonna try new spark plugs and a VR sensor and see what happens


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

I would switch over to GIAC right now. Problem is I have $720 out on Revo. Plus the countless hours of my life and my friend's lives I've wasted trying to get the ****ing software to work. 
Well, I think he was referring to the boosting issues. I didn't discuss anything in relation to coldstart w/him.


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_
I havent checked the codes, but when it is sputtering the check engine light does not flicker on or off, so i dont think its a coilpack. I'm gonna try new spark plugs and a VR sensor and see what happens

I get cold start issues on GIAC...sometimes. This morning it started like crap misfiring and such. I may switch out the coilpacks. Ive got 80k on the motor. Its just strange some days it does it some days it doesn't. No CEL other than my normal 0xy sensor fault. I know its not the MAF. Its brand new. Oh well only ever does it for <10 seconds


----------



## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (loudgli)*

for those of you who sold your ko4-20 kits, can you pm me how much you sold them for and what you included? selling car soon and need to set prices for some stuff


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

12k for my 20th with k0420 and many other upgrades..75k on her too


----------



## SIRWOLFG60 (Nov 7, 2003)

*Re:*

I have bad news for Audi TT 180hp owner with K04-02X








They (revo) don't have a SW for a k04-02x stage3. The guy at REVO told me they probably won't make one soon.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: Re: (SIRWOLFG60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SIRWOLFG60* »_I have bad news for Audi TT 180hp owner with K04-02X








They (revo) don't have a SW for a k04-02x stage3. The guy at REVO told me they probably won't make one soon.










Can't you get flashed with the regular audi TT 225 SW? You can have one custome made by UNITRONIC although UNITRONIC has SW for the k04-20. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:08 AM 5-15-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

http://forum.mazda6club.com/lo....html
Haha... this was about the mazdaspeed6. I'm sorry, I got a good laugh out of their confusion between different k04s and incorrect maps and all kinds of other good stuff. I stole the link from bmxp. Anyhow, I got a good laugh out of them looking @ the wrong k04 maps and pics.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

here you guys go 16's actually: 225/50/16 Hoosiers









http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku


----------



## SIRWOLFG60 (Nov 7, 2003)

*Re: Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_

Can't you get flashed with the regular audi TT 225 SW? You can have one custome made by UNITRONIC although UNITRONIC has SW for the k04-20. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:08 AM 5-15-2007_

Revo told me NO !! I don't want to pay for UNITRONIC because i already paid for REVO...


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

this kit sucks!


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

You suck. That's why you had me buy these STI coilpacks.








Anyone running -E coilpacks with success? I'm thinking of getting a set.


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

Went to the track tonight.
13.90 @ 102.9. Wheel-hop like a mother... I thought I broke a motor-mount it was so bad. on 18's, street tires @ 25 psi. It was a little warm too.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (nuther337)*

@25 psi? What were you holding? Why does my car hold 20psi for like 1500rpms and then taper to 15psi. WTF!


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

when i ran 25 it faded to 20 at redline


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Well... this sucks. I mean, as everyone knows by now, my car doesn't really boost until like 4k. So I may as well have bought a ****ing GT30-35R b/c I pretty much lag that late anyhow. Well, it's not lag though, I know it's just something w/SW or HW or WTF


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

I think hes talking about 25psi in his tires...


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_this kit sucks!

x2 that why I sold that ish


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
x2 that why I sold that ish









yup
i am doing a 13.6 in my 4500lb car stock!


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Then why are you still here talking to us slow folk?








This kit has it's place, for example, if you don't want upgraded internals or if you want stock components. The K04 is a good match for an I4 1.8ltr engine, which means you get a smoother boost curve and stock-like drivability. I personally wouldn't want boost to come on more suddenly at higher RPM's in this car - and that's what you get with most bigger turbo kits.
Granted there are a lot of issues getting the stock or chipped software to perform properly. But once that has been sorted out, the performance can be very respectible. You still shouldn't compare it to other cars that are not at all similar, I would be very disappointed if my $35k car with a V8 didn't outperform an I4 1.8T with a stock turbo kit. At most, the turbo is supposed to make up for not having a V6, not a V8.
Either like this kit for what it is or else don't think about it. If you've moved on to bigger and better things, so be it and please do. We should try to stay on topic and not have a war over kits and cars, there are plenty of other topics for doing that.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

Back on topic, does anyone here have the TT225 intercoolers, with the stock TT charge pipe and drivers side TB? I'm wondering if there are any fitment issues for all that stuff on a Golf vs a TT. Thinking about doing that for a FMIC setup rather than the PI pipe. Just want to know if it's possible.


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

Sorry about the ambiguity...that was 25 psi in my 225-40-18 street tires.
I'm sure my car could see 13.6 on street tires with the correct driver and environment. Have you personally seen 13.6 in Noah's Ark?







J/K... have you?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (nuther337)*

Thats a pretty good time considering you were on street tires, it was warm out and you had wheel hop. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Imagine the possibilities with a lil water/meth, some good slicks up front, and a lil race gas. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

So my MAF sensor decided to take a poop yesterday. Lucky for us VR6 sensor users, the 2.0 and vr6 *sensors* are exactly the same and only cost 78 bucks at the stealership as opposed to the higher price of the VR6 sensor/housing. And for those of you who did not know this here is the proof.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=773176


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Today i made myself a manual boost controller at my dads shop







I throw it in with my N75F valve and it keeps sputtering. So i tried with my original stock N75C valve and BOOYA it worked. I was only boosting 4psi so i stopped and popped the hood, turned the valve all the way and right away it jumps to 20psi







The N75C valve is just sitting in the TIP and electronically plugged in. I thought the N75F replaced the N75C, so how come my car doesnt like the F valve?








You guys are always saying how your turbo holds 20psi to redline, but mine doesnt







It hits 20-21psi holds there for a bit but by the time its at like 5000RPM it drops to 16 and holds (like 04VdubGLI)
Maybe because my car is still not tuned, im in need of an SPS3 Badly


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_Today i made myself a manual boost controller at my dads shop







I throw it in with my N75F valve and it keeps sputtering. So i tried with my original stock N75C valve and BOOYA it worked. I was only boosting 4psi so i stopped and popped the hood, turned the valve all the way and right away it jumps to 20psi







The N75C valve is just sitting in the TIP and electronically plugged in. I thought the N75F replaced the N75C, so how come my car doesnt like the F valve?








You guys are always saying how your turbo holds 20psi to redline, but mine doesnt







It hits 20-21psi holds there for a bit but by the time its at like 5000RPM it drops to 16 and holds (like 04VdubGLI)
Maybe because my car is still not tuned, im in need of an SPS3 Badly









Could be incorrect on this one, but the N75F = stock and N75C = TT. I have an SPS3 and mine still runs like garbage. I desperately need some logs to send to Revo so maybe they'll fix my ish. Anytime I run MBC my car surges and compressor surges at partial throttle. However, under WOT it jumps up to about 23-25psi and holds that for a little and then tapers from there.


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

Since my car is an 01 (awd) it came with the C valve, at the time that was stock on all 1.8t's. Since then they have changed to the F.
What are your settings with the SPS3?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

low boost 9 high boost 4. not that it matters, b/c i have an underboost dtc. If I try high boost 5 nothing changes either. So high boost 4= max for me. Timing varies...usually 3 though. What I love is when I got my ecu it was boosting 14-15psi until I SPS'd it. Which is why I still think they flashed me w/stg1 (which is what my receipt says also). They tell me otherwise though and say there's no way that could have happened. I think PI set it @ timing 2 boost 6.


----------



## DirtyDub04 (Jan 21, 2007)

well I have not seen a dyno sheet through the first 15 pages of this thread and got tired of looking soo...what hp an tq at the wheels is generally seen with this kit and how much did your mpg drop by..I'm looking for 250hp and 280tq at the wheels is this possible with this kit??without pushing the k04 to the max and without meth injection or whatever...thanks


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (DirtyDub04)*

maybe you should keep reading... if you read a few pages back, dyno is on page 28ish or so


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_The only reason that this turbo makes from 230whp-260whp on 93oct. is due to the tune on REVO and GIAC k04-20 programing. ANything more aggresive than what they come with can snap a rod. This turbo produces lots of torque quick and will bend a rod quickly. That is why the tunes on the k04-20 chips are more conservative. If you upgrade rods and pistons than it is another ball game. On another note it seems to me that the 5 speed GTI's make better track times than the 6 speed GLI's or 20AE's. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

I just went back to page 28 to refresh my memory and I caught this post. Is it really true that the tunes are more conservative and that upgrading to stronger rods and lightweight pistons could allow the tune to be more aggressive? Also, stock compression is 9.5:1 right so would it be better to lower compression to say 9.0:1 and then raise boost or timing?
I'm thinking about swapping in better rods at least, maybe pistons too. The stock pistons are good for as much as this kit could put out with a more aggressive tune and stronger rods right? Only reason I can think of to change them is that the stock pistons are 19mm which limits the choice of rods. Am I totally off on that?
I had so many issues even with just the stock K03 that I would feel a lot safer with stronger rods and water/meth. I think my whole family would sleep better at night if the car was absolutely bulletproof, or at least as much as possible. It doesn't help that my car is pretty much always on 91, I can't get anything better except 100 for $6/gal and it's far away. So meth would probably be a good idea and it's been next on my list for a little while now.
Anyway I've been seriously considering all of this but I'd like some more expert opinions (other than getting another kit, another car, etc).


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

The pistons are made by Mahle, and are forged aluminum. They can/will hold more power than any ko4-02x will be able to throw at it. The rods are another story. They are weak cast units that may need to be upgraded to realize the full potential of any bolt on turbo kit. 
Lowering compression also decreases power. If you can have the stock compression and run the turbo at the full boost still in it's efficiency range, no need to lower the compression. That is all in the tune.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

So because the stronger rods are so much stronger, you can allow boost to hit higher numbers at lower RPM's, correct? How much more boost could it withstand and still be safer than stock rods? And how much can the turbo take at the same time?
Also, is there nothing else that would need to be upgraded at the same time in order to actually be able to run a more aggressive tune, as safely as a "stage 1 chip" tune would be on stock rods? I'm talking about head work, like are the stock valves strong enough?
If you haven't already thrown a rod, can you just drop the oil pan from under the block to swap the rods or does the whole motor actually have to come out? Is it like a day of work for a good mechanic to simply swap the rods? If you've had it done, maybe you could tell me how much it cost and how long it took?
If the heads have to come off, wouldn't that be a good time to swap in large port heads? It seems to me that the large port head couldn't have really been meant for anything more powerful than a K04 since they didn't even have anything that was.
I'd like to be able to run a 007 large port, even if it only makes a small difference - anything is better than nothing and it all add's up (so long as it's not worse). The stock small port mani gives less than ideal distribution to the cylinders and buying another small port for the same price as a large port would be seems like a waste.
But again, I'm asking all this because I don't have any experience with anything beyond what I've done so far.
Thanks!


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_So because the stronger rods are so much stronger, you can allow boost to hit higher numbers at lower RPM's, correct? How much more boost could it withstand and still be safer than stock rods? And how much can the turbo take at the same time?
*With the stronger rods you can run more boost lower, higher, anywhere you want because of thier strength. The turbo can handle just about anything you can throw at it besides starving it from oil and running your EGT's thru the roof*
Also, is there nothing else that would need to be upgraded at the same time in order to actually be able to run a more aggressive tune, as safely as a "stage 1 chip" tune would be on stock rods? I'm talking about head work, like are the stock valves strong enough?
*The stock valves are strong enough for this turbo and tune. As far as more aggressive "tune", are you talking standalone?*

If you haven't already thrown a rod, can you just drop the oil pan from under the block to swap the rods or does the whole motor actually have to come out? Is it like a day of work for a good mechanic to simply swap the rods? If you've had it done, maybe you could tell me how much it cost and how long it took?
*The oil pan and head will need to be taken off to replace the pistons. It is a weekend job with the proper tools and some experience. If not, either have a mechanic or someone who has done the job before helping you.*

If the heads have to come off, wouldn't that be a good time to swap in large port heads? It seems to me that the large port head couldn't have really been meant for anything more powerful than a K04 since they didn't even have anything that was.
*IMO, a large port head would probably hurt this setup. The loss in velocity of airflow is not enough to offset the minimal increase in airflow from the turbo. There was a reason why VW switched from the large port to the small port on the 18t







*
I'd like to be able to run a 007 large port, even if it only makes a small difference - anything is better than nothing and it all add's up (so long as it's not worse). The stock small port mani gives less than ideal distribution to the cylinders and buying another small port for the same price as a large port would be seems like a waste.
*Again, IMO, the large port setup would not be beneficial for the -02x. I believe if you look at the results of the intake mani test, there are many small port mani's avail that can help distribute the air better than the stock unit. I will be running a small port RMR intake on a small port head on a much larger turbo.*
But again, I'm asking all this because I don't have any experience with anything beyond what I've done so far.
Thanks!











_Modified by SloJTI at 8:36 PM 5-19-2007_


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

You sound right.








So how long would it take a good mechanic to drop in new rods, and do you think lightweight pistons would be a good idea too? Wouldn't that cut down on some vibrations? Or would that take away inertia? I was told that lightweight flywheels can be bad for this reason, do pistons have the same issues? I guess it's for when you are trying to get the car moving, the weight helps keep the engine from slowing down, which I guess would be true of more than just the flywheel no?
The stock pistons have the indentations where the valve stroke space is, but that doesn't make it any less of an interference engine, the valves still travel further into the piston stroke space right? What is the purpose of those indentations and why don't the aftermarket pistons have them? Any advantage/disadvantage to the shape of the piston?
I'm sure I would understand these things better if I saw them in person. I just want to make sure that if the rods get swapped, that whatever else needs to happen at the same time, does.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

Has anyone had much success with a particular meth setup, like is the snow performance stage 2 MAF good or is it better to base it off preset boost levels?


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_You sound right.








*I may know a thing or two







*
So how long would it take a good mechanic to drop in new rods, and do you think lightweight pistons would be a good idea too? Wouldn't that cut down on some vibrations? Or would that take away inertia? I was told that lightweight flywheels can be bad for this reason, do pistons have the same issues? I guess it's for when you are trying to get the car moving, the weight helps keep the engine from slowing down, which I guess would be true of more than just the flywheel no?
*You do not need to replace your pistons if you choose a 19mm rod. They are plenty strong enough and light enough for your application. The lighter a rotating assemlby is, the more power you can make. It helps the motor to move thru the rpm range more quickly. Heavier pieces may be stronger, but strong and lightwieght is the way to go. If heavier is better, why do they make carbon fiber driveshafts







*
The stock pistons have the indentations where the valve stroke space is, but that doesn't make it any less of an interference engine, the valves still travel further into the piston stroke space right? What is the purpose of those indentations and why don't the aftermarket pistons have them? Any advantage/disadvantage to the shape of the piston?
*Stock pistons do not have valve reliefs forged into them. They do however have a slight dish to them.*
I'm sure I would understand these things better if I saw them in person. I just want to make sure that if the rods get swapped, that whatever else needs to happen at the same time, does.
*I honestly think you could go with a set of IE rods, stock pistons, replace all the bearings and be fine with anything the ko4-02x could throw at it. Add w/m to the equation, and I still think you'd be more than ok http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif *







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

So Pauter would be overkill? I'm wondering if it's a good idea to just get a good set one time and never have to think about them again.
Lastly, I have this sound from my pullies right now I'm trying to figure out how to record it. Sounds like wre-wru-wre-wru a metal type wheel squeak repeating over and over. I'm thinking it's the idler or the accessory belt, maybe the alternator. It used to just happen on really cold days but now it's all the time... My idle has been getting progressively more stumbled. I have a feeling something is coming up and so I've been driving really careful. It's what made me think about the rods cause I could do the timing belt while I'm at it. Anyone have that sound or know what I mean? I guess I could have a bad valve spring or something? Hard to tell where it's really coming from, but with the hood closed, it comes from the passenger wheel well.








When they go in and put the new rods, can I get them to put a hinge on the heads so I can just open up the block any time I want? It'd be so much easier, seriously.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_So Pauter would be overkill? I'm wondering if it's a good idea to just get a good set one time and never have to think about them again.
Lastly, I have this sound from my pullies right now I'm trying to figure out how to record it. Sounds like wre-wru-wre-wru a metal type wheel squeak repeating over and over. I'm thinking it's the idler or the accessory belt, maybe the alternator. It used to just happen on really cold days but now it's all the time... My idle has been getting progressively more stumbled. I have a feeling something is coming up and so I've been driving really careful. It's what made me think about the rods cause I could do the timing belt while I'm at it. Anyone have that sound or know what I mean? I guess I could have a bad valve spring or something? Hard to tell where it's really coming from, but with the hood closed, it comes from the passenger wheel well.








When they go in and put the new rods, can I get them to put a hinge on the heads so I can just open up the block any time I want? It'd be so much easier, seriously.









Pauters would require new pistons. They are a 20mm wrist pin. Integrated Engineerings are the only drop in 19mm I know of. They also are only like $330 for a set if I recall. I would get those unless I was going somewhere in the range of 30R+ honestly. They're supposed to be rated to 500whp. I would probably feel safe taking them into the 400s. 
How many miles does your car have? Do you have aftermarket pullies? It sounds kind of like you're saying you do, but I'm not sure.
Just as a thought, even w/the rods only being $330 (IE's) you'd still be looking at spending a min of say $500-600 on just parts. You have to consider head gasket, bearings, rings, etc... There's a lot of expensive parts that go into changing something like the rods. If you're coupling that w/a timing belt you're somewhere in the $800-900 range just in parts (assuming you get a new water pump and serp belt and everything all @ once). Tack labor on that and you'll probably be in the $1200+ range. It's a big investment. That's the thing about a k04-020, one of the perks should be no need for rods AKA saving like $700+ (even doing them the cheapest possible way).


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

On a side note, what are your SPS3 settings? I think somewhere in this thread someone other than me posted them, but I'm lazy.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
Pauters would require new pistons. They are a 20mm wrist pin. 


Hmmm....then the Pauter's in my motor are special oder units that use the 19mm wrist pin


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Pauters would require new pistons. They are a 20mm wrist pin. Integrated Engineerings are the only drop in 19mm I know of. They also are only like $330 for a set if I recall. I would get those unless I was going somewhere in the range of 30R+ honestly. They're supposed to be rated to 500whp. I would probably feel safe taking them into the 400s. 


http://ecstuning.com/stage/edp...=1.8T
if you guys get 5-10 peeps I can probably put together a package deal??? Pauter only...19mm or 20mm


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
Hmmm....then the Pauter's in my motor are special oder units that use the 19mm wrist pin
















Haha. I lose







I could have sworn I only saw them in 20s. O well. Either way, they're certainly not going to be the cheapest option.
A GB is nifty. However, count me out







Oh, and Val WOULD be the one to know everyone and get that to happen.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

My SPS3 is set to the basic #2 performance settings right now. I tried advancing the timing to 3 but the gas here is worthless. I do have ECS underdrive pullies.
Yes, I know the benefit of the K04-02x is that you don't have to change internals, but if you do then you are even safer. I've already had one new motor, I'm not looking to have that happen again. Like if I don't notice something and something bad is happening, at least I have a chance that it won't be $4000 later before the car is running again.
The timing belt job is only because it might as well be done. I already have pretty new components, it's been less than 20k miles since the motor was replaced (the new motor is used but the timing belt was new, etc). I have a metal impellar water pump. So since the timing belt has to come off anyway, I was just going to replace the belt alone or maybe the tensioner as well.
I guess IE rods would be fine, the advantage of Pauter is that if I change my mind and decide to go to a bigger turbo, I'll be all set. I know for sure that if I was going big turbo, I'd go really big because, well, why not.








In the meantime, I just want to try to get as much power out of this as I can, even if it's just 5hp at a time with expensive mods. I know that seems retarded, but if in the end I'm not happy with the power, I can swap the turbo and take advantage of all the mods to a greater extent.








_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 5:24 PM 5-20-2007_


_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 5:25 PM 5-20-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_My SPS3 is set to the basic #2 performance settings right now. I tried advancing the timing to 3 but the gas here is worthless. I do have ECS underdrive pullies.
Yes, I know the benefit of the K04-02x is that you don't have to change internals, but if you do then you are even safer. I've already had one new motor, I'm not looking to have that happen again. Like if I don't notice something and something bad is happening, at least I have a chance that it won't be $4000 later before the car is running again.
The timing belt job is only because it might as well be done. I already have pretty new components, it's been less than 20k miles since the motor was replaced (the new motor is used but the timing belt was new, etc). I have a metal impellar water pump. So since the timing belt has to come off anyway, I was just going to replace the belt alone or maybe the tensioner as well.
I guess IE rods would be fine, the advantage of Pauter is that if I change my mind and decide to go to a bigger turbo, I'll be all set. I know for sure that if I was going big turbo, I'd go really big because, well, why not.








In the meantime, I just want to try to get as much power out of this as I can, even if it's just 5hp at a time with expensive mods. I know that seems retarded, but if in the end I'm not happy with the power, I can swap the turbo and take advantage of all the mods to a greater extent.








_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 5:24 PM 5-20-2007_

_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 5:25 PM 5-20-2007_

Haha. Now you sound like me. Except I think I'm just going to get a new project. I have an intake mani and lw crank pulley to put on. Then I'll probably look for some more random little mods.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

Also, has anyone tried fabricating a heat shield to put over the exhaust mani? When I drive even a little hard at night, the mani glows in the dark. I'm pretty sure that the air in the PI pipe is only getting hotter because of it and my BF SMIC probably doesn't cool it down to the same as it would be if that heat wasn't on the pipe. Any thoughts? I guess I could wrap the downpipe and the PI pipe with DEI wrap.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by SloJTI at 9:42 PM 5-22-2007_


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_Also, has anyone tried fabricating a heat shield to put over the exhaust mani? When I drive even a little hard at night, the mani glows in the dark. I'm pretty sure that the air in the PI pipe is only getting hotter because of it and my BF SMIC probably doesn't cool it down to the same as it would be if that heat wasn't on the pipe. Any thoughts? I guess I could wrap the downpipe and the PI pipe with DEI wrap.









don't have that problem.. FMIC FTW


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (bmxp)*

Who's got this kit, tried a large SMIC and then gone to a FMIC and thiks a FMIC is better? How about anyone with the opposite?
I went from a Neuspeed FMIC to a BF SMIC and the BF is better, but that might only be because the Neuspeed is possibly the worst FMIC ever.
Also, when I swapped in poly bushings into the dogbone, I upped the idle RPM's by 100. Does having higher RPM's cause higher vacuum which could potentially cause the PCV valve (under the intake manifold) to close? I tested the valve and with enough vacuum or enough boost, it will close. I wonder if this is an issue. I'm trying to figure out this rough idle problem... I guess I'll have to try lowering it again to see.
Lastly, can anyone confirm whether they can hear the N75 clicking at idle or when the car is turned on? I can't hear it and I can't feel it vibrate or anything either. I tried 3 different N75's (C, F, and J). I got a DTC about internittant N75, but it might just have been that I disconnected it while the key was on. I guess I could run the output tests and see if it clicks then.
I kind of lost easy use of VAG-COM and lemmiwinks because the laptop died and I have to lug an old desktop out to the car every time. This sucks because I can't do any tests while driving. Gotta get a carputer setup or else a tablet PC.


















_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 4:48 AM 5-21-2007_


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

Upgraded Side Mount Intercoolers are more than enough for the k04-20. I think FMIC are overkill for this lil turbo. Also I have heat wrap around my PI upper intercooler pipe. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_Don't underestimate the IE rods yet. There really is no real world experience with them yet to think they can't hold 500whp. Don't be the typical Vortex'er and think the unknown thing is a bad thing. If we as a community don't look at new products with an open mind, we'll have a harder time advancing our knowledge of what works for us and what doesn't.

don't listen to slojti...that's such BS (why don't you try these rods out???) that's like jumping on a new band wagon http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif
actually, wait for someone to prove their worth, don't be a guinea pig...Pauters have been proven and Scat's have shown decent results so far...do you want to rebuild your motor twice in case these aren't much stronger then stock, like the eurospec ones?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
don't listen to slojti...that's such BS (why don't you try these rods out???) that's like jumping on a new band wagon http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif
actually, wait for someone to prove their worth, don't be a guinea pig...Pauters have been proven and Scat's have shown decent results so far...do you want to rebuild your motor twice in case these aren't much stronger then stock, like the eurospec ones?


Every company begins somewhere is I think what he was trying to say. If no one ever tried Scat rods then they wouldn't have the rep they do today, etc... One day IE's rods may be up to the competitions prices - once they have a name. Right now they're cheap b/c no one knows them and the only way to get people to chance something like that is to make it a great deal. Hell, they were only like $259 or something when released originally. Since then they've gone up b/c they have a reputation now - well sort of.

IMO, IE rods are the perfect answer for someone who wants to run a GT3071 or smaller. I think they're a low budget build up rod. I would honestly trust them up to around 400whp - as I think I've said before. I've heard they should be good to 500whp or whatever, but I wouldn't try pushing them past 400whp from what I know of them. IE actually buys the rods from a private party who has them made. I know the person who gets them made and everything I know of them I would run them in my car. The actual cost to produce rods is so miniscule in relation to their selling price. I don't recall the exact cost to produce them, but I can tell you that $300 or whatever IE charges is still making some decent dough. And they only had like a few hundred sets made. Imagine if you were making 1000s. Anyhow, moral of the story, in my mind, I wouldn't push the stock rods past 300whp or 300wtq (of course on race gas a k04 could hypothetically do this). I would trust the IE rods for another 100whp max - which would probably be limited to around a 3071R range, and anything bigger or w/N20 or something I would start paying for serious rods. That's just my .02


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by SloJTI at 9:42 PM 5-22-2007_


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Still, the point of this is for safety so I'd rather have something tried and tested than unknown...








/arguing


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_Your one of the reason's this community is so far behind the Honda's and DSM's. Hahaha, don't try something new until someone else does.....lol....







If everyone has that mentality, we as a community would never try anything new. 
Jump on what band wagon? I have Pauter's in my motor







I did not ask him to try them or tell him they are as good/better than Scat's or Pauters. I simply said don't underestimate them until there is more know.








People learn by breaking things. It's called experimentation Val....How do you think the DSM guys know they can't run 11.5:1 a/f ratio under tons of boost? You think nobody ever tried. Someone did and blew thier s(hit up and the lesson was learned.
I am ranting, yes, but c'mon







Don't try anything new





































wow...yes, i am the reason that this community isn't progressing :ROFL: I've already built my motor because REVO had such a great tune for my car, I am done being a guinea pig...*wanna be the brave one?* then YOU try it out...our community isn't that far behind BTW http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
most people in this thread don't want to upgrade rods to begin with, and most don't actually need it (considering a new short block can be had for reasonably cheap and to swap over all your ish isn't that hard to do) most backyard mechanics can do it...so they aren't a must
have you seen Eurospec rods fail, and they are suppose to be a reputable brand...I saw them fail @ 300whp


_Modified by 18T_BT at 5:29 PM 5-21-2007_


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by SloJTI at 9:41 PM 5-22-2007_


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

I haven't heard good things about a single eurospec product. Seems like they just don't make anything any better than OEM.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_I haven't heard good things about a single eurospec product. Seems like they just don't make anything any better than OEM.

Joel Brown made 780+whp on a set of Eurospec cams







Yes, with a 1.8t http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Here's the sound my pullies are making, it's the whining, this was taken from the passenger wheel well.
http://www.benharpers.com/whining_pullies.mp3
Anyone know what it is? Idler?


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i had the same sound, it was my ac compressor, i thought it was my pullies too


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

stock internals are fine for any tune on a k04-20 tune, slo, back me up buddy


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_stock internals are fine for any tune on a k04-20 tune, slo, back me up buddy


I had no problems, but....


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Lets say you figure out the perfect setup and you get 300whp via meth injection, exhaust diverter, lightweight everything that matters. After that, lets say your wastegate hose gets a hole in it or slips off and you accedentally push 35lbs... That would be my luck...


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_Lets say you figure out the perfect setup and you get 300whp via meth injection, exhaust diverter, lightweight everything that matters. After that, lets say your wastegate hose gets a hole in it or slips off and you accedentally push 35lbs... That would be my luck...









Wouldn't the N249 open the DV in such a situation?
If you hit 35lbs chances are you'd kill a piston or something anyhow, so the rods may not even be a factor. 35psi = lean like a mofo I'm sure and probably a touch warm, so I suspect you could end up screwing a rod anyhow from it being so lean and detonating or maybe just kill a piston or something? Point being w/that sort of optimism (yes, that WAS sarcastic) you'd want to have extra fueling available - so maybe bigger injectors and fuel pump as well. I mean, I guess what I'm getting at is you can try to combat all of these sorts of what - ifs, but chances are there will always be another one. Do you have 2 wheels/tires on each corner? In case one should blow out @ 70 - it's that kinda thought IMO. I'm not saying not to be prepared, but don't get stressed over something like that. Hell, think about the damage that occurs to your turbo if your DV should get stuck closed or something @ regular boost. COMP SURGE FTL! Just keep up on maintenance and you'll be fine. You are physically incapable of preparing for every scenario.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

After replacing the motor once, I was pretty scared. That happened about a year and a half ago. Then, after learning what an interference engine was in auto shop, the fear came back. This was a few months ago, I guess I'll give it some time. The pulley sound from the ac compressor and the stumbling idle aren't helping me feel optimistic. At least that is one thing I can get fixed under warranty...









_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 12:26 AM 5-22-2007_


_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 12:26 AM 5-22-2007_


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_Listen bro, it's the mentality, not you. Seems like everyone in here is afraid to try something new. Yes, you may have seen a Eurospec rod fail at 300whp, but does that mean every Eurospec rod will? Does that mean the every new rod on the market shouldn't be tested because there are options already available? NO
Show me a 9 sec mkiv 18t or one that makes 700whp....or even for that matter 800whp, then tell me we are not that far behind.







580 is the magic # IIRC, and that was an engine dyno. If you think 2 sec or 200whp behind is "not far behind"







, then I have nothing more to say









first you say it's me, then you say it's not me...you make no sense
IIRC Joel Brown ran a [email protected] mph...that's in the same ball park...this doesn't have to be a mk4, and not many have truly turned one into a drag car yet either...the fastest mk4 is in the 10's and I am sure you will see even better times soon from him and a few others: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3103881

_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_Seems like everyone in here is afraid to try something new. 

now the people above aren't afraid to try something new...plus you are forgetting YOUR audience, which is this thread and k04-020 users, who aren't really going to be getting much farther then 12's most likely...IF that quick
so, compare apples to apples when DSM's have an AWD option and been around since 1990 and most honda's are bubble hatches that don't weigh a ton like a mk4...
04vdubgli-you'll kill a rod well before you ruin a piston http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

I thought we were going to start seeing some dynos by page 41. This is page 42.































_Modified by 01gtiaww at 10:07 AM 5-22-2007_


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_I thought we were going to start seeing some dynos by page 41. This is page 42.






























Who needs dyno's when you have FIGHTING!!!


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I would love to dyno... but I don't have $$ to blow on one. And more importantly, my car runs like garbage.
Haha called PI yesterday and asked for Pat. Said he'd call me back. Still haven't heard back at this point. Guess I'll be calling back now.
Val, did you happen to get the cable?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I would dyno but i just spent alot of money restoring my 18 inch BBS RC's for water fest. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by SloJTI at 9:41 PM 5-22-2007_


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_I make no sense, you are correct. I am a babbling idiot









Yes, there is 1 mkiv in the 10's, *1*. Leaving awd out of it, how many Honda's do you see in the 10's that are street legal? How about in the 9's? And you can make an mkiv a "bubble" hatch, just ask WhiteG60....I believe this is his sig "My mk4 is lighter than your mk2. 2075lbs with a rollbar and all steel body panels" 
My audience is exactly the type of person I would first approach if I were selling IE rods. Start low and work your way up. If they were to prove reliable for 300wtq, then work my way up to 400+whp. But that's just me http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I am not trying to fight theory with you Val. We could go on for days, as we both have our own opinion. You go ahead and wait for someone else to do it first, and I'll be the person to try new things. Maybe you'll use a product after it has been tested and proven worthy (to you) on my car
















ian's car doesn't run and the only mk4 that light
show me one k04 running 400whp :ROFL:
you can try whatever you like running your pauters you hypocrite 
lastly, you have nothing on your car that I'd use, so keep trying for others, not me http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
ps beat hetzen, then come talk to me


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by SloJTI at 9:41 PM 5-22-2007_


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

You guys are being ghay. These are such small differences of opinion and I'm sure both of you have both tried new products before they were fully tested and also tried time tested products. You are both stuck in very small boxes, the sides of which are made out of your frustration.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_You guys are being ghay............You are both stuck in very small boxes, the sides of which are made out of your frustration.

















Agreed, posts deleted


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

My car has 500whp on stock rods and a K04!!!!














http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
















I hope someone reads that and instantly becomes offended and tells me why I suck








On a side note, my car runs like a piece of ish!1!!!!


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

illl sell someone my dynos


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

I've got $2 in my paypal account w/your name on it


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_My car has 500whp on stock rods and a K04!!!!














http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
















I hope someone reads that and instantly becomes offended and tells me why I suck








On a side note, my car runs like a piece of ish!1!!!!

Must be a Florida dyno


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
Must be a Florida dyno
















Insert that pic about Florida dynos and how they're all bull****.


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Why are you guys hating on Florida.








Keepin it real in the dirty south.
JK, I've been here for too long. Almost two years now. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## UnoQuickDub (Feb 16, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
Insert that pic about Florida dynos and how they're all bull****.

I heard MKV's are faster than K04'd MKIV's. Any truth to this rumor?


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (UnoQuickDub)*

Nope, I know for a fact, I smoked a DSG one.








And DSG doesn't really depend on the driver being particularly good. But I'm sure a K04'd MKV would probably beat a K04-02x.


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

Went to the track again tonight. New best time:
13.808 @ 103.21
still on 18's with mad wheel hop.








Here is a link to a video my friend put together last week with the 13.90 @ 102.26 pass . (not 102.9 like I previously posted)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wk7SM1qATzI


_Modified by nuther337 at 12:32 AM 5-24-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (UnoQuickDub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *UnoQuickDub* »_
I heard MKV's are faster than K04'd MKIV's. Any truth to this rumor?

Shut your face. I hate you. Listen, my car runs like dick. Mine is not a good car to use







I'd bet, based on what I've seen my car is running like 220-230whp range. It should be 240 range. MKV APR Stg2 is gonna be pushing what... 260?


----------



## badbidet (Sep 13, 2005)

*Re: (UnoQuickDub)*

The apr kit for the 2.0T is only a k04. I forget how much power it makes, but im jelous. somethin ridiculous though.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (badbidet)*

That's a pretty good time for 18inch street tires. You need to get some good slicks up front and some 100 oct and you will hit 13.5-13.4 easily http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:51 AM 5-24-2007_


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Thanks,
I would hope for low 13's with some traction. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (UnoQuickDub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *UnoQuickDub* »_
I heard MKV's are faster than K04'd MKIV's. Any truth to this rumor?


hell no i killed on3e before my ko4-001 even made 250whp http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (nuther337)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nuther337* »_Went to the track again tonight. New best time:
13.808 @ 103.21
still on 18's with mad wheel hop.








Here is a link to a video my friend put together last week with the 13.90 @ 102.26 pass . (not 102.9 like I previously posted)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wk7SM1qATzI

_Modified by nuther337 at 12:32 AM 5-24-2007_


hey where are u shifting at with the 6 speed.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

What SW are you running Nuther? I can't remember


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Shut your face. I hate you. Listen, my car runs like dick. Mine is not a good car to use







I'd bet, based on what I've seen my car is running like 220-230whp range. It should be 240 range. MKV APR Stg2 is gonna be pushing what... 260?

they actually are here: http://goapr.com/VW/products/turbo_mkv_gti.html# and here are some track times: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3018008
so right on par with k04-020 numbers (excluding all these 250whp k04-001 charts which I won't belive, no matter how many times they are posted)


----------



## UnoQuickDub (Feb 16, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
Shut your face. I hate you. Listen, my car runs like dick. 

I'll remember that next time you need help http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_What SW are you running Nuther? I can't remember









He's running REVO! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 3:17 PM 5-24-2007_


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

I'm shifting around 7K. On that 13.80 run I shifted in to 2nd around 6500 only to get away from that gnarly wheel-hop.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (nuther337)*

What kinda 60s did you have? I had some awesome 2.5+ 60s. Which would probably be why I had such a shoddy 1320.


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

2.259 60' on that run. I know it's been said before, but it's all in the clutch...especially with street tires.


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (nuther337)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nuther337* »_I'm shifting around 7K. On that 13.80 run I shifted in to 2nd around 6500 only to get away from that gnarly wheel-hop.

u should try 6500 or 6 k for the 1st 3gears and then 4 gear ride all the way out.
Last time i went to the track with my setup
i ran [email protected] shifting like that but i bog going into 4th that why i only ran a 14.0
but before i was shifting at 7k and and would run [email protected]
So try a lil ealier shift might bring yur mph up and mid 13's for sure http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
goodluck


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (double0vr6)*

I have a bad MAF. My asr and cel light came on Wednesday night as I was leaving the track. Does anybody know what signal they are reading from their MAF? My friends VAG COM says the signal should be around 2.2 and I am reading .11


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (nuther337)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nuther337* »_I have a bad MAF. My asr and cel light came on Wednesday night as I was leaving the track. Does anybody know what signal they are reading from their MAF? My friends VAG COM says the signal should be around 2.2 and I am reading .11










Just buy an AEG engine code 2.0 MAF housing SENSOR and put it in your 2.75 HOUSING. The AEG 2.0 SENSOR and VR6 SENSOR are identical. I just did this a few minutes ago cause my MAF pooped out on me as well. You can get one for 60.00 bucks online. I paid 40 bucks brand new from the dealer but that's just cause I have the hook up. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








Here is the long thread proving that the AEG 2.0 and Vr6 sensors are identical . I confirmed this as well as I was swapping sensors out this morning. i will take a picture of both sensors side by side.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=773176



_Modified by 01gtiaww at 3:27 PM 5-26-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

You use MAF Sensors?1!? WTF... who does that?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Well... since there's been no action on here for a few days and I need to rant... here we go!
So, I knew I had at least one boost leak that I found via pressure testing. So, I figure... what the heck, may as well just go hog wild and just get everything reclamped and make sure there was no oil under the sleeves or anything. I was going to replace everything w/t-bolts, but I decided against that as APR uses regular clamps on their FMIC setup (plus it has a little offset part for the clamp and then a bead kinda thing. Moral of the story, I figured I'll take out ALL of my charge piping and reset everything.
So, I started by the turbo outlet. I have regular clamps on the elbow (I DO want to put t-bolts here, but need to find some 2.25" ones). Everything is good. I move to the charge pipe line to the N75. I find out there's a little crack in the line. It wasn't this way long ago... so I guess the extra heat really takes a toll there. Replaced that. Now, I also figure while I'm doing this I'll do my DV relocation (I may have a DIY on this later as I really like my method b/c it was cheap haha). So I block off the DV line w/a cap. Move down the charge pipe to the LIP. I already have some t-bolts here as it was a trouble spot earlier. Those I WON'T touch unless forced @ gunpoint, so those are good to go. 
At this point I start removing all of my bumper covers and what not and take of my APR FMIC setup. Well, it was a little easier than I would guess to take everything off. Kinda scary... someone could probably steal FMICs pretty easily. Anyhow, I managed to strip one of the freakin allen key bolts that APR uses to hold the FMIC onto the rebar (could have been the shop that installed it first?). So I didn't actually ever get the FMIC seperated from the rebar. I took all of the piping and silicone and hit it w/brake cleaner and wiped everything out and got all of the oil and residue out. I WILL be running a catch can very soon. I couldn't believe the oil in there. So I'm looking at everything and decide to take the sensor piece out of the top of the IC piping (I believe this is the MAP sensor?). I start loosening the screws only to find that they are two different screws. At this point I'm like WTF? I take them out and the sensor just plops out. Turns out my sensor hole on the piping is I'd guess 1/2" and my sensor is like a 1/4". By NO MEANS is it even close and there is no possible way that hole is sealing up. I'm guessing that the shop that did my install either ordered the wrong size, lost mine, or maybe both. I liked the two different screws though. I remember why I like doing my own stuff. I'm going to get a ride from my mom today to pick up a new sensor. I wonder if this little guy could have been causing my boost issues. I'm guessing not... but I'm sure it wasn't helping. It also MAY have been a leak. I thought it was the bottom of the TB hose leaking, but in hindsight it could have been this thing. WTF.
Ok, sorry for ranting. Have a good day.


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I think most fmic setups are designed for one size MAP sensor. My ATP setup doesn't even have a flange and you have to use a piece of hose and a reducer to get mine to seal up. Good Luck
Oh, heres a good place to get t-bolts pretty cheap.
http://stores.channeladvisor.c...lamps/
or Napa can get them for you. They dont have quite the size variety though.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Well... since there's been no action on here for a few days and I need to rant... here we go!
So, I knew I had at least one boost leak that I found via pressure testing. So, I figure... what the heck, may as well just go hog wild and just get everything reclamped and make sure there was no oil under the sleeves or anything. I was going to replace everything w/t-bolts, but I decided against that as APR uses regular clamps on their FMIC setup (plus it has a little offset part for the clamp and then a bead kinda thing. Moral of the story, I figured I'll take out ALL of my charge piping and reset everything.
So, I started by the turbo outlet. I have regular clamps on the elbow (I DO want to put t-bolts here, but need to find some 2.25" ones). Everything is good. I move to the charge pipe line to the N75. I find out there's a little crack in the line. It wasn't this way long ago... so I guess the extra heat really takes a toll there. Replaced that. Now, I also figure while I'm doing this I'll do my DV relocation (I may have a DIY on this later as I really like my method b/c it was cheap haha). So I block off the DV line w/a cap. Move down the charge pipe to the LIP. I already have some t-bolts here as it was a trouble spot earlier. Those I WON'T touch unless forced @ gunpoint, so those are good to go. 
At this point I start removing all of my bumper covers and what not and take of my APR FMIC setup. Well, it was a little easier than I would guess to take everything off. Kinda scary... someone could probably steal FMICs pretty easily. Anyhow, I managed to strip one of the freakin allen key bolts that APR uses to hold the FMIC onto the rebar (could have been the shop that installed it first?). So I didn't actually ever get the FMIC seperated from the rebar. I took all of the piping and silicone and hit it w/brake cleaner and wiped everything out and got all of the oil and residue out. I WILL be running a catch can very soon. I couldn't believe the oil in there. So I'm looking at everything and decide to take the sensor piece out of the top of the IC piping (I believe this is the MAP sensor?). I start loosening the screws only to find that they are two different screws. At this point I'm like WTF? I take them out and the sensor just plops out. Turns out my sensor hole on the piping is I'd guess 1/2" and my sensor is like a 1/4". By NO MEANS is it even close and there is no possible way that hole is sealing up. I'm guessing that the shop that did my install either ordered the wrong size, lost mine, or maybe both. I liked the two different screws though. I remember why I like doing my own stuff. I'm going to get a ride from my mom today to pick up a new sensor. I wonder if this little guy could have been causing my boost issues. I'm guessing not... but I'm sure it wasn't helping. It also MAY have been a leak. I thought it was the bottom of the TB hose leaking, but in hindsight it could have been this thing. WTF.
Ok, sorry for ranting. Have a good day.

Damn! And all this time you've been blaming the SW!

















_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:15 AM 5-30-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_
Damn! And all this time you've been blaming the SW!
















_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:15 AM 5-30-2007_


What's better is that my FMIC has been on the car like 2 full years. I never saw a need to take it off/apart. I guess it serves me right for having someone else do it. Now I'm looking for the larger MAP sensor and then we'll see what the SW does.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_What's better is that my FMIC has been on the car like 2 full years. I never saw a need to take it off/apart. I guess it serves me right for having someone else do it. Now I'm looking for the larger MAP sensor and then we'll see what the SW does. 

GL finding one of those sensors...I suggest you call the shop, they might have one, otherwise it's impossible to get it from the dealer and not cost effective http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

Yeah... Sendell has one... for $128.35. I passed. Day said they could order me one. Probably for around the same. I'm going to be looking around now I guess.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

it's cheaper to replace the pipe for the correct sensor (if it's an oversight by the shop/apr) for free vs. paying 130 bux for a new MAP sensor is all i meant http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

42 draft designs makes a kit for this. Here is the link below.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
http://www.42draftdesigns.com/18tmapsensors.htm


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 12:22 PM 5-30-2007_


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Call Zeb at http://www.1stvwparts.com for the sensor. Should be under $100 and try http://www.siliconeintakes.com for the clamps http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## UnoQuickDub (Feb 16, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Yeah... Sendell has one... for $128.35. I passed. Day said they could order me one. Probably for around the same. I'm going to be looking around now I guess.

I'd give you my 42nd draft designs MAP sensor flange kit...
*BUT*

_Quote, originally posted by *"04VDubGLI"* »_I hate you. Shut your face.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (UnoQuickDub)*

You have one?!!? I would be stoked if you would be so kind as to sell that to me








You're amazing. I love your car! Ah... you're the best and I'm the worst? I owe you Uncle Sam's? Ah... You smoked me w/your 3071. You'd rock me @ Guitar Hero any day of the week! 
How bout now?








Thanks for your help w/these... to everyone!


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

buy the right pipe


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

I'm not spending whatever the cost of a new pipe is. I bought a new sensor instead. I'm sure mine could use a replacing anyhow... 50k on it. I'm livid that the shop I bought the FMIC from didn't get the right ****ing pipe in the first place. They could have at least told me or something... not to mention the screws that were holding my sensor in basically don't fit. One fell out because only the first thread would catch and the other... barely stays in. Guess I need to get some longer ones.


----------



## UnoQuickDub (Feb 16, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_You have one?!!? I would be stoked if you would be so kind as to sell that to me








You're amazing. I love your car! Ah... you're the best and I'm the worst? I owe you Uncle Sam's? Ah... You smoked me w/your 3071. You'd rock me @ Guitar Hero any day of the week! 


I have to see if Val still needs it first. At one point he mentioned he may have a need for it. If not you can have it for $20.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (UnoQuickDub)*

No, it's cool dude. I just picked up a large size one offline. I'm just waiting for it to come in now. I've heard it's good to replace them every so often anyhow... 50k I figure it'd prob not hurt to get a new one. So yeah. No worries







I do want to take you for Uncle Sam's though. LMK when you have time to go!


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Yo. I did some vagcom logs and requested boost is always like 10-20% lower than actual boost. even with the car off, requested is 1000 and actual is 1010-1020.
Some guy was telling me that there is an "ecu adaption" value (I'm guessing it's in vag-com under adaptions for the engine). He was kind of a jerk so he wouldn't tell me which one it was. I won't say who, but he likes to hold back on the 1% of information required to understand things completely.















Nice guy but also kind of a jerk. I have never heard of anything related to this, anyone know wtf he's talking about? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Also, is there any difference other than size between the two sensors? Do they wear out? Does oil from the PCV system effect their accuracy?


_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 5:22 PM 6-1-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_
Nice guy but also kind of a jerk. 

_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 5:22 PM 6-1-2007_


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_
Nice guy but also kind of a jerk.


j/k foo










_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 11:58 PM 6-1-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

thats why i got my car running perfect with this poor excuse of a turbo kit


----------



## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

yea so that dyno never happened, at least to my knowledge. did i miss it?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (GiacGtiAgain)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GiacGtiAgain* »_yea so that dyno never happened, at least to my knowledge. did i miss it?

Hells no it didn't happen! I win!


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

buy it from me and feel free to post it


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Dood. It's like pulling teeth. Is there a problem with telling me which adaptation channel you were talking about?


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

Also, I'm going to the Euro Sport Dyno Day tomorrow so with any luck, I'll walk away with a dyno sheet. Only reason I might not is that I missed the RSVP for the waiting list, they say they are booked all day so I guess I'll have to show up early...


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

Has anyone tried GIAX X+ N75S smoothing? How does that work?
I swapped in new plugs and am still getting misfires. Apparently these STI coilpacks are already failing, I just bought them 2 months ago. DTC for random on all cyls and also specifically a DTC for cyl 2 misfires.








I guess STI makes the new version R coilpacks that everyone likes so much but their own aftermarket versions are not of the same quality...


_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 8:39 PM 6-3-2007_


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

Also, I went to dyno days, but the line was so long I made arrangements to do the dyno later in the week. So if anyone has any hints as to what to do to get good numbers. Like what boost level is good and safe. With the Revo SPS3 set to #6 low and #7 high boost and I'm hitting/holding 20-22psi, only I've seen it spike to 25-26 a couple of times.
So today I went down to #5 for low and high boost on the SPS3. The timing is at 0, I don't think the gas here is good enough for anything over 1. I was getting a nasty knockin sound with it set at #3. I could mix in a half tank of 100 octane to try to appoximate 93 octane, I bet I could have it set to #2 or 3 safely with that.
Probably will dyno it on Wed or Thurs. Need to figure out the misfire thing too cause that could effect things...


----------



## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

long lines, RSVPs, etc etc. im not saying your lying man, but this thread is 44 pages of excuses. somebody just GET IT DONE. this is a complete joke already.


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (GiacGtiAgain)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GiacGtiAgain* »_long lines, RSVPs, etc etc. im not saying your lying man, but this thread is 44 pages of excuses. somebody just GET IT DONE. this is a complete joke already.

I think we should keep the dynoless thread going to make you angry... HA you seem more interested in the dyno plots than anybody else... 
Like what was said before... I honestly wouldn't do this kit for the full price. I would only purchce this kit as used or for a good deal. It might be a turbo for some one that does a lot of city driving or Auto x. I do belive dynos are on page 28-32... not the best but there are some there...


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (GiacGtiAgain)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GiacGtiAgain* »_long lines, RSVPs, etc etc. im not saying your lying man, but this thread is 44 pages of excuses. somebody just GET IT DONE. this is a complete joke already.

I'm thinking about buying Bluebomber's ko4-023 setup just to dyno, whatcha think? Actually it's because GIAC won't work with me to sell my ECU. The best I can do is flash it back to the ko4-02x sw and hang on to it







http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_I'm thinking about buying Bluebomber's ko4-023 setup just to dyno, whatcha think? Actually it's because GIAC won't work with me to sell my ECU. The best I can do is flash it back to the ko4-02x sw and hang on to it







http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 

why not, maybe pick up another vw and swap it in... haha


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_
why not, maybe pick up another vw and swap it in... haha

Anyone want to buy a GIAC ECU with the ko4-02x sw on it?


----------



## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_I think we should keep the dynoless thread going to make you angry... HA you seem more interested in the dyno plots than anybody else... 
Like what was said before... I honestly wouldn't do this kit for the full price. I would only purchce this kit as used or for a good deal. It might be a turbo for some one that does a lot of city driving or Auto x. I do belive dynos are on page 28-32... not the best but there are some there...


i fully admit that this has become an obsession for me. i really need to get a life, but its so fun to bash this kit, and its fun to be right. do i hear 60 pages before a dyno?
and yea, i would never pay retail for this kit. id even hesitate at half the price.


----------



## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_I'm thinking about buying Bluebomber's ko4-023 setup just to dyno, whatcha think? Actually it's because GIAC won't work with me to sell my ECU. The best I can do is flash it back to the ko4-02x sw and hang on to it







http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 


PM me about your troubles if you can. and i say go for it, ill paypal you 5 dollars and a picture of me smiling to get you started.


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_Anyone want to buy a GIAC ECU with the ko4-02x sw on it? 

Talk to 04vdubgli or what ever
I personally did this kit because at the time nobody really did it and I got it for about 1300 bucks for the whole kit. It was just more of an experiment to get me moving to the BT world.... IT's a gateway turbo it leads to bigger and badder turbos. It just makes "more" problems. Damn this gateway turbo... haha


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (GiacGtiAgain)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GiacGtiAgain* »_

i fully admit that this has become an obsession for me. i really need to get a life, but its so fun to bash this kit, and its fun to be right. do i hear 60 pages before a dyno?
and yea, i would never pay retail for this kit. id even hesitate at half the price.

There is no way I won't have a dyno by the end of this week. I already paid for it.








I just want the numbers to be meaningful. Like without problems with the car. So I have misfires people, what gives. New plugs already. Coilpacks 2 months old. Jer said that it was not the coilpacks. They are STI brand. STI makes the Rev R ones for VW.
How much boost should I run for the dyno. How much boost normally? I am asking peak and at certain speeds, you pick em. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 10:32 PM 6-3-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i had to do alot to get my par numbers on a good dyno


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
Anyone want to buy a GIAC ECU with the ko4-02x sw on it? 

I'll trade you the one I've got with REVO K04-02x software on it








Seriously though, if it's even possible to make that ECU work in my GLI, I may be interested. Let me know.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_
I'll trade you the one I've got with REVO K04-02x software on it








Seriously though, if it's even possible to make that ECU work in my GLI, I may be interested. Let me know.


I have no idea if it's possible to make it work. I know people have bought and sold GIAC ECU's before, but my local dealer is not telling me how they make it work. So, if someone wants to take the effort to find out, I am willing to offer a *killer* deal on the ECU and handheld flashloader


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

You know... I'll be honest, I'd so much rather have GIAC - it seems to be so much more "defined" or something. I've heard so many different things about Revo that I'm all over the place. Though...Right now I'm actually feeling a little bit bad for bashing Revo so much. I didn't realize my MAP sensor would be all screwed. I have noticed since I redid all of my lines and what not that it's not really doing the 2 stage boosting anymore - so it's showing some sort of potential improvement. However, I still need my new MAP sensor to come in. What I do have happening now (that wasn't really happening so much earlier) is that I'm getting an on/off feeling w/the SW - almost like when my MBC was in place. The partial throttle blows for some reason. Go above like 2psi and it wants to go to high teens. I'm also still not seeing the promised holding 20psi to redline. Of course there is an argument for that being my MAP sensor leaking boost. So once my MAP sensor is here I'll put it on and see what it does for sure finally. I'll boost leak test it again (kind of how I found out about the MAP not being correct) and if it's not leaking anywhere then I'm going to assume that it's then officially SW. In the past I was always open to ideas from people on what it could be, but after taking everything charged off and t-bolting more things and making sure everything was well seated and tightened and replacing and shortening all of my vac lines and clamping all of them (one or two had zip ties) I really will be out of ideas and will have done literally every idea I've gotten as well. Once the sensor is replaced I'm pressure testing it again and if it's all sealed I'm taking it out and doing all sorts of driving that day. I REALLY need to get logs that day as well (Val/Mark... I need to borrow one of you + the cable







- I'll buy dinner or something) and that'll be my last day of BS. If I'm not holding 20psi to redline I'm going to play w/my SPS3 (currently 9 low boost and 4 high boost I believe). If that doesn't fix it then I'll call PI and ask them why it won't do it. If my partial throttle is still garbage (which it really is right now) then I'm going to bitch to PI and ask them why (after checking N75 duty cycles/TB alignments or what not). Then I'll officially have either gone from the Revo hater to admitting that I was to blame and that the SW isn't so bad or maybe I'll still have these issues and it'll officially be the point when I ask PI for a refund (prob would NEVER happen though). So... at this point, I'm saying that maybe Revo isn't so bad and I'm also saying that if anyone else has Revo and their having issues that they should maybe try boost leak testing and see if anything comes up or just try resetting everything or something of that sort. Also... if my car SHOULD get running properly and my logs are in agreeance, sometime in the future I'll probably work on a dyno. I mean... I'll accept funds via paypal now







Sorry for one big para.
Edit: Holy ish that's long. 

20AE - What boost do you hold to redline? We should basically be the same b/c you're a 6spd as well (load values are identical then). Also, from what PI told me, low boost should always be 9. I don't know what that means, but maybe try that? What octane do you run? 91? @ 93oct I can run timing of like 2 during summer and still get more advance than pull, so if you're only able to get 91 I could imagine 1 max for you. During the colder months I was able to get away w/3 (hoping to return there once I get heat shielding, heat wrap my uppipe and dp, and put a spacer on my intake mani). You and I should really work out some SPS3 settings b/c we may be the only two running the old SPS3 devices?


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_i had to do alot to get my par numbers on a good dyno

in other words... this kit licks balls?


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_20AE - What boost do you hold to redline? We should basically be the same b/c you're a 6spd as well (load values are identical then). Also, from what PI told me, low boost should always be 9. I don't know what that means, but maybe try that? What octane do you run? 91? @ 93oct I can run timing of like 2 during summer and still get more advance than pull, so if you're only able to get 91 I could imagine 1 max for you. During the colder months I was able to get away w/3 (hoping to return there once I get heat shielding, heat wrap my uppipe and dp, and put a spacer on my intake mani). You and I should really work out some SPS3 settings b/c we may be the only two running the old SPS3 devices?

I've been thinking the same thing about GIAC but I also heard that it's a more aggressive tune. Anyway, I was told to get the dual boot range SPS3 but now I kind of wish I had the other one. I'll try the 9 for low boost.
As far as boost, I get whatever I set it to. Like if I set the wg actuator and SPS3 such that I boost to 20psi, I hold PSI until redline. I just have no idea how much boost is ok with what I can only assume is not just 91 but bad 91. We here in Cali get just the worst gas, along wiith the weakest. There is a 100octane pump nearby, but I think I really just want to pump 91 since that's what I generally run with.
I was also going to wrap my pipes, that plus run a boost cooler kit were my only current plans for my motor.

_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
i had to do alot to get my par numbers on a good dyno


It's not like I'm not trying to do a lot here. I mean I installed the turbo myself. In fact, I don't know what else you think I could really do since I have virtually all the mods that you did...

_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 11:03 AM 6-4-2007_


_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 11:03 AM 6-4-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i never told you allll of my mods


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

I should just strap an A/W IC in my piping somewhere then toss it through the FMIC, too. Then I'd be able to run 3/4 timing all day long. Hit me up on AIM... I'll hook you up w/some info! 
Still waiting on my MAP sensor to get here...


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_i never told you allll of my mods









That's why I said virtually. But don't fotget you sent me pics of your engine bay, so a lot of the ones you weren't telling me about, were revealed.










_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 2:18 PM 6-4-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

none of my mods u dont know about you could see in my bay


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_I should just strap an A/W IC in my piping somewhere then toss it through the FMIC, too. Then I'd be able to run 3/4 timing all day long. Hit me up on AIM... I'll hook you up w/some info! 
Still waiting on my MAP sensor to get here...

with a a/w u could run t9 all day long bt u will need to change fluid to ice every hour or so


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_none of my mods u dont know about you could see in my bay

Why are you saying all that. Either tell us what other mods you had or else don't try to tease with the idea that you made more power than we ever could.
Nobody else here is holding back and keeping secrets. I don't see why you feel compelled to get all competitive when you don't even have that car anymore. It makes no sense to come on here and tell us how our cars suck and how yours made more power, then top it off saying you had some "secret mods" that you won't tell us.
http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

I'm gonna go out on a limb and say... if you need some secret mod to get this turbo going... then well... yeah... ummm... k04 = the suck... I'm getting pretty bored of this turbo..... I kind of regret getting this thing... I thought it would be way more powerful from what PI says... but obviously it's not true b/c I don't htink anybody has reached what htey show...


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

Here's a couple pics of my car at dyno day: Engine Bay and Outside...
...
God damn pick whores. I guess I'll just put my pics right in the thread too.



























_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 12:24 AM 6-5-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

copying my pcv setup


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

Since we are showing our engine bays/cars... here's mine:








and


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_copying my pcv setup









Actually, I had already switched over before I saw your engine bay. I also have the TT225 secondary air conversion with the better solinoid and the combi-valve that sits up front where you can get at it to clean, etc. Getting the combi-valve out of the stock spot makes it a lot easier to see back there and to get to the front of the turbo.










_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 12:25 AM 6-5-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I've been giving up all of my secrets on how to make it two stage? What other secrets are there?!


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

There's no damn secrets on getting more power. All you have to do is mess with the sps settings, or lemmiwinks or whatever. Add some race gas+ water/meth or intercooler mister and thats it. If you really want to get everything this kit is capable of then upgrade some internals and crank some settings. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif It's all in the tunning but you can't really enjoy this unless you upgrade internals. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_There's no damn secrets on getting more power. All you have to do is mess with the sps settings, or lemmiwinks or whatever. Add some race gas+ water/meth or intercooler mister and thats it. If you really want to get everything this kit is capable of then upgrade some internals and crank some settings. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif It's all in the tunning but you can't really enjoy this unless you upgrade internals. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


you would think, after doing sine stuff i was gettin 15-22 whp higher on the same dyno after fooling around with some other crap also though


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

I might as well add to the pics
Heres my dirty engine bay

And heres the whip


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

*Fine! I'll Play too!* I'm still in winter mode







, but i did include a picture of my summer wheels!







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif







By the way, who the hell needs dynos when we have all these purty pics!


































































_Modified by 01gtiaww at 6:01 PM 6-5-2007_


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Wait if we're going to show pics, *please limit them to 2, one of your engine bay and one of your car*. Wheels and other angles are not important to the ot and it's going to be too pic intensive if everyone does that.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_Wait if we're going to show pics, *please limit them to 2, one of your engine bay and one of your car*. Wheels and other angles are not important to the ot and it's going to be too pic intensive if everyone does that.

who cares, there just pics









btw 40 bux buys all of my dyno plots, i have 3


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I'm sure w/Lemmi it can be leaned out a bit and make some more hp. I'm also sure there is probably a more precise way of adjusting timing... I mean otherwise I don't know what else you could do to it. I'll have to get a cable and become familiar w/what all Lemmi has to offer I guess.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I have 3 cables, hit me up if you want.
BTW, setting low boost to 9 on the SPS3 isn't good. It's just the same as a MBC if you do that, drivability goes out the window, or at least it did for me...


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_I have 3 cables, hit me up if you want.
BTW, setting low boost to 9 on the SPS3 isn't good. It's just the same as a MBC if you do that, drivability goes out the window, or at least it did for me...

i found my car liked high boost 9 timing 3 on warmer days and timing 4 on 94 oct http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
i made my most power at high boost 9 timing 3 with 94 unleaded and c116 leaded mixed, about 3 gallons of c116 to about 4 gallons or so of 94/93 pump gas from sunnoco/shell


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

all of my friends with t3s6os haul major ass and have proven solid mid 12 sec street cars in street trim on pump no weight reduction, one is a 12.4 with slicks as a best, another with a 12.7 on radials and another with a 12.9 on radials, all 3 are awps and very very fast


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

yep... for any future k04-20 users... please go GIAC haha you won't be 2 staging like me and 04vdub. ONly way I fixed it was to put my VBC infront of my n75 but i only hold 15/16psi at after 6k


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_yep... for any future k04-20 users... please go GIAC haha you won't be 2 staging like me and 04vdub. ONly way I fixed it was to put my VBC infront of my n75 but i only hold 15/16psi at after 6k

well i fixed my 2 stage by doing a few things after that it ran great but i agree go giac, slo never had any issues as far as i can remember, i havent talked to guy in a bit







for slo, whereever his queer a$$ may be


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
well i fixed my 2 stage by doing a few things after that it ran great but i agree go giac, slo never had any issues as far as i can remember, i havent talked to guy in a bit







for slo, whereever his queer a$$ may be









I'm here







and agree http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
So someone buy my GIAC ECU with handheld flashloader for cheap, real cheap










_Modified by SloJTI at 6:21 AM 6-6-2007_


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

I've never had any 2 stage problems with the boost. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

If I could get your ECU into my car I would so buy it haha. It's even harder though b/c of me having no GIAC dealer around. I have APR only. Weak.
That's interesting that low boost 9 = MBC like driveability? You're saying that basically it's surgey or something? Like... when I think of MBC like driveability I think of it wanting to either boost or not boost and spiking. I've had some surging issue (wtf?) so I haven't been beating up on my car too much. Maybe I should try lower low boost settings. PI told me something about running low boost 9, but I guess maybe I should try a little of my own.
Edit: The reason I ask is now that my car isn't two staging... and I just said this to my gf last night when we were out driving, it's as bad as when I had my MBC in. It just wants to boost all over the place.
I think I have fixed my 2 stage finally. And part of it was doing what 2632 suggested... I did a lot of vac line deletes and moved my DV. I also tried a few things I had thought of. Either way, it seems like it's just really temprimental or something. Like a hair off and it runs like ish. 


_Modified by 04VDubGLI at 11:28 AM 6-6-2007_


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_If I could get your ECU into my car I would so buy it haha. It's even harder though b/c of me having no GIAC dealer around. I have APR only. Weak.

There has got to be a way







It's useless junk to me now http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
There has got to be a way







It's useless junk to me now http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 

I agree... I just don't know how? I've always been told/heard that GIAC is the only one that IMMO doesn't even matter. Apparently the SW just erases itself if you try to change the codes or something like that. Could be full of it though?


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
There has got to be a way







It's useless junk to me now http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 

all awp ecu's 5 or 6 speed will interchange, i ran a 5 speed awp upsolute ecu for a bit, any vw dealer can make it work


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_
Why are you saying all that. Either tell us what other mods you had or else don't try to tease with the idea that you made more power than we ever could.
Nobody else here is holding back and keeping secrets. I don't see why you feel compelled to get all competitive when you don't even have that car anymore. It makes no sense to come on here and tell us how our cars suck and how yours made more power, then top it off saying you had some "secret mods" that you won't tell us.
http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 

i never said anyone elses car sucked, just that i didnt like this turbo and i felt i wasted money (the little money i had in it)
i did infact have a tweaked file from revo with some hush hush things on it that i am not gonna soill the beans on. and i never said anyone cant produce the power i did, so please dont put words in my mouth. i didnt dyno extremely high but i have yet to see anyone post dynos that came close to mine (within 10-14 hp) http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
i never said anyone elses car sucked, just that i didnt like this turbo and i felt i wasted money (the little money i had in it)
i did infact have a tweaked file from revo with some hush hush things on it that i am not gonna soill the beans on. and i never said anyone cant produce the power i did, so please dont put words in my mouth. i didnt dyno extremely high but i have yet to see anyone post dynos that came close to mine (within 10-14 hp) http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Give me a few weeks and I'll post up my first baseline K04-023 dyno. We'll see how I can do on pump gas, then I'll be back with increased timing, water/meth injection and some higher numbers http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

I will also be hitting the dyno very soon...
Pg46 pwnd


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i had no w/m. no other adders besides c116
with c116 i would stay side by side with my buddys in there t3s60 mk4 1.8ts. it ran like a ape on coke with that stuff
i had a bf smic, 3inch catless turbo back ghl, and other parts from the k0420 kit, no pullies, or gaskets either.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_i had no w/m. no other adders besides c116
with c116 i would stay side by side with my buddys in there t3s60 mk4 1.8ts. it ran like a ape on coke with that stuff
i had a bf smic, 3inch catless turbo back ghl, and other parts from the k0420 kit, no pullies, or gaskets either.

When I would run 110, my car loved it also. No dyno's or good passes with that gas in the tank, but the way it would break the tires loose said it all. I think it has more to do with trying to run the little turbo out of it's efficiency range and the higher octane race gas allowed the ECU to keep the timing up.


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_i had no w/m. no other adders besides c116
with c116 i would stay side by side with my buddys in there t3s60 mk4 1.8ts. it ran like a ape on coke with that stuff
i had a bf smic, 3inch catless turbo back ghl, and other parts from the k0420 kit, no pullies, or gaskets either.

I'll be running a eurojet street FMIC, a 2.5" GHL turboback, an audi TT 225 turbo and manifold, a forge TT 225 TIP, with REVO K04-02x software and the required injector/maf combo. I'll also be using lemmiwinks to do some tweaking here and there








When the time comes I'll be going the w/m route rather than the race gas route. Not only is the w/m cheaper, but I'm more comfortable with lemmiwinks timing advance and I like the idea of being able to use it all the time http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

well if you got a cat then dont bother with leaded gas


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_well if you got a cat then dont bother with leaded gas

yep, that's another reason to stick to the w/m


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

here's question to some of you guys... even though this kit is making me go bigger...
I know some of you guys are holding 20 or at least 17/18 psi at redline... what did you do to do that? mine seems to taper down toe 15/16psi at redline usually after 5500-6k i see it fall down.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_here's question to some of you guys... even though this kit is making me go bigger...
I know some of you guys are holding 20 or at least 17/18 psi at redline... what did you do to do that? mine seems to taper down toe 15/16psi at redline usually after 5500-6k i see it fall down.

You must have the same file as me... Revo just hates us







That's why neither of us are happy. Of course... I'm doing a little more I'd say to try to fix it than you are. PWNT!


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

I was going to dyno my car this week but I might hold off. The wastegate flapper is flapping at high boost and so I need to figure that out. It probably doesn't do it with the wastegate cranked but then boost is too high. Not sure what to do...


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_You must have the same file as me... Revo just hates us







That's why neither of us are happy. Of course... I'm doing a little more I'd say to try to fix it than you are. PWNT!










The diff is mine didn't 2 stage as bad as yours... i fixed it by MBC inline.... and I just haven't cared to fix it that much b/c like i said in my deleted post by the mods... I"m just not sure if it's worth it... And I have been doing more than you... By end of htis month my engine bay will be spotless and I'm sure **** will still not work...


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (bmxp)*

You guys are a bunch of cry babies! I







my k04-20 kit!










_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:07 AM 6-7-2007_


----------



## vtracer20 (Oct 31, 2006)

hey guys, maybe you can help me out...i got a k04-025 for a 100 bucks yesterday, i need to rebuild it but, can i make this work on my 1.8t? Of course with a aftermarket manifold? Also what other parts would i need to maek this work. This is pretty much the start of a project if i know i can make this work. Let me know thanks.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (vtracer20)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vtracer20* »_hey guys, maybe you can help me out...i got a k04-025 for a 100 bucks yesterday, i need to rebuild it but, can i make this work on my 1.8t? Of course with a aftermarket manifold? Also what other parts would i need to maek this work. This is pretty much the start of a project if i know i can make this work. Let me know thanks.

Pretty sure that'd be the turbo for the S4. So... It's unlikely it'd work. However, you just never know....
Wastegate flapping? That's a new one for me to hear? I welded mine up a few months back







Been running like a raped ape ever since.
Painting misc engine pieces does not count as fixing boosting issues







No, I'm saying you haven't pressure tested it or anything of that nature. Go frickin pressure test that piece and see if that tells you anything. That's pretty much what started the end of my 2 staging. My 2 stage was also easily fixed by a MBC... I just had too hard a spring in my MBC for it to be near driveable.


----------



## vtracer20 (Oct 31, 2006)

Yea it's the turbo for the RS4 engine.....never heard of anyone running one of these?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (vtracer20)*

Do you have a pic of it? I actually kinda feel like it may be similar to a k03s in design... and therefore maybe quite doable. One of those two RS4 turbos has a weird turn on it just like a K03s (If I recall correctly). I mean... if you want to try it... you'd be the innovator on that thing. Probably could only speculate til someone just got the balls to try it.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_
yep, that's another reason to stick to the w/m










ill choose to keep misted water out of all my engines

you know how many horrr stories ive read with w/m on cars vs racegas


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_I was going to dyno my car this week but I might hold off. The wastegate flapper is flapping at high boost and so I need to figure that out. It probably doesn't do it with the wastegate cranked but then boost is too high. Not sure what to do...

how do you know its that and not the n75 making it surge? usually its not the wastegate in most cases


----------



## vtracer20 (Oct 31, 2006)

my camera is dead so i'll take a few pics tonight...


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
how do you know its that and not the n75 making it surge? usually its not the wastegate in most cases

I still hold that I think something is up w/k04-020 SW and N75 programming. But I could be a crack fiend?


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i was talking to 2306


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_i was talking to 2306

I know haha. I almost kind of feel like he and I are now in a very similar situation w/the SW/setup. Misery loves company. 
I kind of think Bmxp would be too, but he's just not cool.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

2306 isnt having two stage boost problems
you should buy slo's ecu


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_2306 isnt having two stage boost problems
you should buy slo's ecu

I'm not having 2 stage anymore either








I really would consider Slo's ECU... but I don't know how GIAC could ever get IMMO defeated or something? How could I make it work?


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

take it to the dealer and u wouldnt need to worry about the immob. vw dealers can recode the immob.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Well I mean... the ECU in my car now is not my stock ECU. I swapped my APR chipped ECU into someone else's car and I have theirs now. But I heard something about GIAC not working anymore if the IMMO codes are changed. Which could be BS? Plus I have $700 out for Revo...


----------



## UnoQuickDub (Feb 16, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
I'm not having 2 stage anymore either








I really would consider Slo's ECU... but I don't know how GIAC could ever get IMMO defeated or something? How could I make it work?


Don't buy SLO's ecu Trevor. Why do you think he's having such a difficult time selling it? They're non-transferrable from what I understand. The software itself is coded to the immobilizer id at the time of flashing. Something to that effect.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i knkow people who swapped giac ecu's all the time with no issues


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_i knkow people who swapped giac ecu's all the time with no issues

that's their older ecu's before they started to flash load everything http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (UnoQuickDub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *UnoQuickDub* »_
Don't buy SLO's ecu Trevor. Why do you think he's having such a difficult time selling it? They're non-transferrable from what I understand. The software itself is coded to the immobilizer id at the time of flashing. Something to that effect.

This is exaclty why I told them to do the research before they would send any $ or whatever. I was told the same thing and told Trevor the same thing you did. I am not trying to screw anyone. But if someone could get it to work, I'd be more than happy to sell the ECU


----------



## alphar (Nov 28, 2006)

*Re: (vtracer20)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vtracer20* »_Yea it's the turbo for the RS4 engine.....never heard of anyone running one of these? 

If I recall correctly, there was an Eurotuner challenge a couple of years ago and someone brought a 1.8T with an RS4 K04 Turbo. I'll try looking for the magazine to see which tuner did this.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
This is exaclty why I told them to do the research before they would send any $ or whatever. I was told the same thing and told Trevor the same thing you did. I am not trying to screw anyone. But if someone could get it to work, I'd be more than happy to sell the ECU









I never thought you were trying to screw me... no worries! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif We've had discussions seperate of here and trust me...
Those > These. 
You've made it clear and I've tried finding out some stuff on my end.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
I never thought you were trying to screw me... no worries! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif We've had discussions seperate of here and trust me...
Those > These. 
You've made it clear and I've tried finding out some stuff on my end. 

Just making it clear to all because of the post by Mark. No worries, if it can be made to work, someone will have a killer deal. If not, I have a $1K paper weight


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (UnoQuickDub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *UnoQuickDub* »_ The software itself is coded to the immobilizer id at the time of flashing. Something to that effect.

For clarification, it has nothing to do with the Immobilizer. Even with Immobilizer defeated or properly coded, flashed GIAC software will not work in another car.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
For clarification, it has nothing to do with the Immobilizer. Even with Immobilizer defeated or properly coded, flashed GIAC software will not work in another car. 

Well, there you go http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
I know it's something with the VIN being encrypted into the sw somehow. I just wish there was a way around it


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

So i came back from my mechanics shop after blowing my manifold to turbo gasket







half of it was melted off and it sounded like a truck. Seems like the shop that installed my kit did a half assed job with the bolts, and my mechanic could twist the turbo bolts by hand







..anyway they found another strange thing, there is a hole in the back of the turbo on the exhaust side and it was plugged with a lug nut







which ended up falling out when we went for a test drive, it was leaking rigth away.so we plugged it with the correct size bolt. what the hell is this hole used for and should it be plugged?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_So i came back from my mechanics shop after blowing my manifold to turbo gasket







half of it was melted off and it sounded like a truck. Seems like the shop that installed my kit did a half assed job with the bolts, and my mechanic could twist the turbo bolts by hand







..anyway they found another strange thing, there is a hole in the back of the turbo on the exhaust side and it was plugged with a lug nut







which ended up falling out when we went for a test drive, it was leaking rigth away.so we plugged it with the correct size bolt. what the hell is this hole used for and should it be plugged?


I take it you have a k04-022? From what I understand there was an EGT probe there or something. At least Pro-Imports told me so. They asked me if mine was plugged. Then explained they only use the k04-020 because it doesn't have that option?


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

That is for the stock pyro sensor, which most of these turbos don't acutally have. that's really bad that it wasn't there, I can imagine flames shooting at your heater hoses and stuff...
K04-023's have that also...


_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 5:39 PM 6-7-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

yea the 020s did not have that, another reason why PI chose the 020


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
I take it you have a k04-022? From what I understand there was an EGT probe there or something. At least Pro-Imports told me so. They asked me if mine was plugged. Then explained they only use the k04-020 because it doesn't have that option?


No mine is a ko4-023


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

I thought it was only on the 023... i just check mine I don't have it... I got a 022


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

t360 bmxp?


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

holy dirty block batman, how much oil are you leaking?
this shop sounds fishy http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## inivid (Aug 25, 2003)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_The diff is mine didn't 2 stage as bad as yours... i fixed it by MBC inline.... and I just haven't cared to fix it that much b/c like i said in my deleted post by the mods... I"m just not sure if it's worth it... And I have been doing more than you... By end of htis month my engine bay will be spotless and I'm sure **** will still not work...

curious to know what you see when you run straight off the w/g. if you've addressed other avenues regarding your taper, perhaps a little w/g fiddling is all you need.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

right off the bat after install i was at about 17psi at redline or so, then after about 3/4 to 1 full turn i saw 20psi at redline


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (inivid)*


_Quote, originally posted by *inivid* »_curious to know what you see when you run straight off the w/g. if you've addressed other avenues regarding your taper, perhaps a little w/g fiddling is all you need.

5/6psi I found out the hard way... hahaha ran MBC wide open and i was like WTF why is this not working... then I found out i had to wind it back up... haha


----------



## inivid (Aug 25, 2003)

*Re: (bmxp)*

ya, in any new setup, it's best to run off the gate and get it dialed in to run your desired minimum psi, first, before moving on to boost control. 
5/6psi off the gate isn't good at all. you should be able to at least get 14-15psi off the gate. you just need a stiffer spring. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
get that worked out and it should cure your taper, improve responce and make your mbc a little friendlier too.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (inivid)*

What is everyone seeing with the N75/MBC out of the loop, i.e just the wastegate actuator connected to the charge pipe? Just curious. I think we should nail down the exact number so people can calibrate their setups before moving on to boost control. Whoever is running perfect, which I pretty much am, we should come to a consensus on the best wastegate actuator setting which then only requires the stock N75 to make the best/safest/optimal boost. The N75's should be calibrated to be the same, theoretically that's what they do at the factory with the adjuster screw.
So basically if all else is equal, what is the wastegate actuator? Need the start boost and the holding boost.
Also, I think there should be very little difference even if everyone doesn't have the same N75. I mean very little difference in the boost that the wastegate actuator makes controlling boost by itself. I'll unplug my N75 and do it too. It's really only useful to get this info from cars that are working well. I think this could help everyone, including those who already have good performance/drivability.











_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 2:03 AM 6-8-2007_


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i ran 5-6 just off the gat which is what all the kkk borg/warner turbos should run off the gate alone
my k03 ran 5 and my k0420 ran 5-6 basicly just take off the electrical plug off the n75 and that puts u into hard limp which puts u at the wastegate setting, or just take the 2 boost/vacume lines off the n75 (top and side) and use a male to male connector to tap them together.
2306 ya gotta remember that every car is gonna react diff with different n75s so its gonna be hard to say we should all be the same, there just regualr flash's for every car, not a custom tue to each to get them where they need to be.
heres a sneak preview of a new goodie for my new car
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o8m6sZDIjLk


_Modified by 200320thAE2632 at 1:58 AM 6-8-2007_


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

What does PI say you're supposed to boost at with the N75F? Does Revo suggest the same? If so then everyone with Revo chips should know what that is. I haven't been able to eek that info out of anyone so far and I've asked, even here in this thread, several times already. I'll check if I'm getting 5/6 without the N75. My guess would be that I'm boosting more than that. I'm seeing 20psi peak/hold on average and I occasionally see 23psi peak/hold. I turned it down in the last couple of days and it seems to like the above better than the 22 normal and 25 occasional I had before.
I just ordered an F valve to replace the C I have no so hopefully that will improve drivability even further. I'm pretty happy right now, finally no CEL. I guess it was the spark plugs because that DTC went away. I have no DTC's now, this is the first time in the 2 years I've had the car where this has been the case. I still think I might want to swap in the E bolt down hitachi coils.
Also, btw, the new plugs I got are Brisk DOR14LGS's and I have to say they are probably the best plugs I've had thus far. They sell them at EuroSport so I had picked them up on dyno day because I was planning on running my car that day. Now I'm just waiting for the N75 valve and I'll be back there to dyno it.
On the Charger exhaust, pretty cool. It sounded/looked like it was moving a lot of air really efficiently without any uglyness. If that is with cats and is totally carb legal then it's a sweet system, would love to find something like that for my car. My exhaust is much more stuffy and sounds a lot more like a 1.8t rendition of "po-ta-to po-ta-to po-ta-to". http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 2:22 AM 6-8-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

with the correct n75 (f) at work (PI) we use to tell customers anywhere from 20-25 was normal, since every car is different 20-25 was normal for your well running car. revo suggest the same info. everytime i see scott at shows we always shoot the **** for a bit about the sw.
i remember seeing eurosport selling those plugs, didnt research into them much but i am sure there good, to be honest though i am sure its a restamped NTK(ngk) plug, they seem to manufacture alot of the other higher end brand names. its all a monopoly type deal with these autmotive parts, like in the american world, 80 percent of these cars are basicly biult by honeywell, not ford, GM or dodge, etc....
yea thats a stock charger with just a slp catback, i told you these cars move man, 350hp 390tq. i ran a 13.6 with a 2.0 sixty at 102pmph. similar to a fwd car but the charger weighs in at 4500lbs just about


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

When I spoke to PAT and Dan at PI , the first thing I asked them was how many pounds of boost I should be seeing and they told me 18lbs. My turbo would spike at 18 and hold 18 as they said. I then turned my wastegate nut 1.5 turns put in my MBC and now i have it set where I spike at 20 and hold 18. If I open up the MBC all the way I spike at 25 but I still hold 18. I dont know if its just me but my car feels stronger spiking at 20 rather than 25. But I cant get it to hold more than 18 no matter what I try. By the way I have not messed with any SPS settings either. It is still set at what PI set it to. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 5:50 AM 6-8-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 5:52 AM 6-8-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

unfort. PI has been consistant with info, anyone who has dealt with them can verify this. i was instructed to inform people 20-25 while i worked there, scott always told me anywhere between those numbers were of the norm.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

That's a pretty wide range don't you think? Is there any technical data on efficiency ranges? I'm just trying to figure out where to set it because I can basically set it wherever I want now but I'm sure certain numbers are better than others.
I think if you're boosting higher but only holding 18 then I would guess either your wastegate is turned down too much or something is leaking. The only way I could get it to hold 18 was if I turned it down to peak at 18 - but I think I did that before and I ended up having it creep up instead. From what PI apparently said, 18 is too low anyway.
It'd still be nice to know what the optimal number is.








P.S.: If temps are a sign of anything... If I push it for a while, I get a pyro reading of like 900-1200º, that's taken half way down the downpipe, before the primary O2. Normally it's more like 500-600º. I'm sure it's not totally accurate, but it's probably close enough. I saw the same gauge on my K03 never less than 900º and several times it maxed out (over 1600-1800º) and the turbo still didn't go p-ff-t-zzz (until later when it did). My average temp with the K03 was always higher than it is now - but who knows, I replaced a lot of other components too.


_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 4:27 AM 6-8-2007_


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_unfort. PI has been consistant with info, anyone who has dealt with them can verify this. i was instructed to inform people 20-25 while i worked there, scott always told me anywhere between those numbers were of the norm.

20-25 is the norm what? Spike? I know this turbo aint going to hold 20-25 to redline. I mean I have spiked from 20-25 depending on how i set my MBC and I hold 18 to redline no matter what i spike. This seems just right for me. BY the way this is my second k04-20 and the first one was the same. And i have only tightened the wastegate 1.5 turns, I run the J valve, and i have my mbc inline with my n75. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:52 AM 6-8-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:52 AM 6-8-2007_


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Um seriously, do you want me to take a video of me boosting to 23 and holding over 20? You can totally hold anything you want, the turbo never runs out of boost before redline.


----------



## UnoQuickDub (Feb 16, 2007)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

I heard there is this really slow K04-023'd blue Jetta GLI in Pittsburgh. Something about him losing to a Ford Festiva the other day


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (UnoQuickDub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *UnoQuickDub* »_I heard there is this really slow *K04-022'd* blue Jetta GLI in Pittsburgh. Something about him losing to a Ford Festiva the other day









They are quick. I can't help that. I STILL haven't gotten my new map sensor in. I'm about to tell the guy I want my money back. I paid him last Friday morning and he's in CT. I think he SHIPPED it today! WTF?!
My car has at least one boost leak... but... I spike 20psi and hold that til like just over 5k then taper down to 15psi @ redline. By the way... 15psi @ redline FEELS SLOW! SPS3 settings: low boost: 7, high boost: 4, WG is tightened maybe a turn ish?


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Yeah I see no reason other than your boost leak for you to be holding anything less than 1-2PSI (at the most) less than your peak. At least that's what I'm seeing. I had 2 boost leaks, one of which is still there but it's a pinhole (it came with the PI pipe, the weld for the DV port had a pinhole leak). The other leak was an injector seat, which I replaced.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_Um seriously, do you want me to take a video of me boosting to 23 and holding over 20? You can totally hold anything you want, the turbo never runs out of boost before redline.

Holding 20 is about right, but anything over 20 would not be very efficient for this little turbo. Holding over 20lbs till redline is nothing more than hot air from this little turbo. Can anyone say blowdryer?







From reading the earlier pages of this thread it seems like the norm is 18-20 till 6500 rpms. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:26 PM 6-8-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i held 21 psi to redline a few times, nothing new with these kit, but yea 20-25 is a wide range but thats what they say
if your pyro isnt right before the turbo on the mani then expect it to be anywhere from 3-600 degrees off. trust me


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_i held 21 psi to redline a few times, nothing new with these kit, but yea 20-25 is a wide range but thats what they say
if your pyro isnt right before the turbo on the mani then expect it to be anywhere from 3-600 degrees off. trust me

I would definitely agree w/the being off if it's not in the exhaust mani.
I still want to see a map for this turbo. I imagine it's probably efficient to around 1bar. Everything past that is definitely going to be plummeting in terms of power gains. I imagine the compressor housing can actually handle close to 2 bar though? Anyone know for sure?


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

maybe i should crank my wastegate too cause im not holding 20psi to redline. tapers down to 15-16 after about 5kRPM like said above. but i spike at 20-22psi, but definetly does not hold for that long


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_


maybe i should crank my wastegate too cause im not holding 20psi to redline. tapers down to 15-16 after about 5kRPM like said above. but i spike at 20-22psi, but definetly does not hold for that long
As you can see in the picture above, does it look like my WG needs some cranking? im guessing i need to turn the bolt towards the WG some more? i havent touched the WG at all...


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

Try 1.5-2 turns towards the wastegate then go from there. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## population inversion (Mar 18, 2007)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_maybe i should crank my wastegate too cause im not holding 20psi to redline. tapers down to 15-16 after about 5kRPM like said above. but i spike at 20-22psi, but definetly does not hold for that long

you realize you aren't running a GT28R .... the turbo simply runs out of breathing capacity to hold 20psi at redline anywhere near a decent efficiency island on a compressor map


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (population inversion)*

Got maps? thanks


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bluebomber* »_Got maps? thanks

I've found RS4 k04 maps before... guessing it would be pretty much identical. Someone probably knows where to find them. I don't though.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

no there not near identical
the fastest i remember my car bieng was with a mbc set to 18, spike and hold till redline and i took it to the track but they would niot let me run cause i was wearing shorts, not pants, that night i beat a stage 2 srt4, sti with exhaust and a handfull of mustangs on the way home! it was a really chilly night, i just wish i had my pants that night!
i am playing around with a locals k0420 kit right now cause he was so jelous how my car ran hes paying me to make his run that way. ill have track times for that this upcoming week maybe a dyno but i am sure i wont let him post it


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*





























































































TO 200320thAE2632 for explaining something important to me:
Everyone who has an old SPS3 needs to know something. I never saw the manual for it, the only one I had was for the new version. The way it works is this: low boost is a mode and high boost is part of the SAME MODE. Low boost 0-9 are a range of boost settings that come BEFORE high boost 0-9. So if you say you set it to low boost x and high boost y, then you are confused like I was. It's ONE SETTING. Think of it as Low boost 0-9 and high boost 10-19.








http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 2:25 AM 6-9-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

ughhhhhhhhhh i guess i didnt explain it good enough for you.....

with sps devices there is no high and low setting, just one boost setting, its either high or low..... not one setting for low and one setting for high...
u set the left side to the Low boost number then the right side to the actual low boost number you want
then for high boost set the left side to the high boost number then use the right hand side to set the actual number
same way for timing.
always set the mode to low or high boost (which ever one you want) then use the right hand side or range to the boost number you want. understand now?


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

He doesn't get what I said is the same thing but that's fine.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

mines better explained


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_no there not near identical
the fastest i remember my car bieng was with a mbc set to 18, spike and hold till redline and i took it to the track but they would niot let me run cause i was wearing shorts, not pants, that night i beat a stage 2 srt4, sti with exhaust and a handfull of mustangs on the way home! it was a really chilly night, i just wish i had my pants that night!
i am playing around with a locals k0420 kit right now cause he was so jelous how my car ran hes paying me to make his run that way. ill have track times for that this upcoming week maybe a dyno but i am sure i wont let him post it










So you think that using a mbc and holding your spikes to 18 and keeping it there makes more power than spiking say 21-22 and bleeding to 18?


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (loudgli)*

What's the reason for not letting him post the dyno? Why are you keeping all these dyno sheets private? The whole point is to show what you got!! You got something to hide?


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

If you have an old Revo SPS3 and you haven't read the end of the previous page, you should.


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_If you have an old Revo SPS3 and you haven't read the end of the previous page, you should.










so I get screwed with the new SPS device... anybody know why they changed...


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (bmxp)*

Pretty sure how I've been told it works... is 0-9 low boost is basically the "performance"/chipped mode... 0-9 high boost is like adding to that?


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Yeah that's wrong. They are one mode. The "stock" performance setting is I think low boost 9. So if you wanted the next level up, it would be high boost 0. There is no adding to it, the two settings don't effect eachother: it's either one or the other. If you want more boost, you use a high boost number, if you want less, you use a low boost number. The max setting is high boost 9, the min setting is low boost 0.


_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 1:47 PM 6-9-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_
So you think that using a mbc and holding your spikes to 18 and keeping it there makes more power than spiking say 21-22 and bleeding to 18?

no, just that night i remember the being fast that low but i usually ran 24-25 aily with no issues and made alot of power


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_so I get screwed with the new SPS device... anybody know why they changed...

You didn't get screwed, you just have less levels. I mean the old version has 20 levels of boost, the new version has 10. But the new version has a setting for fuel. Only thing is, the fuel setting is only for R32's. So you just have less settings, doesn't mean you got screwed, your 10 settings are equiv to every other setting of our 20.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_
So you think that using a mbc and holding your spikes to 18 and keeping it there makes more power than spiking say 21-22 and bleeding to 18?

When I had mine setup with the MBC in overboost mode, I had it set to spike and hold 18. It felt pretty solid, but I would have to say my setup now spikes at 21 and holds 18 and it feels much more solid







than in overboost mode. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
no, just that night i remember the being fast that low but i usually ran 24-25 aily with no issues and made alot of power

The reason I ask is... Im running a J valve right now and spike 21 hold about 17. The car runs super smooth this way.
If I switch out to the stock N75 I spike 24-25. I dont remember what it holds at, I may switch it out just to see. But I dont run this way because the car does not transition into boost smoothly at ALL, unless you are WOT.
Me and a couple of friends are going to the track in a couple of weeks and Im trying to decide how I should run it. And if I should use race gas even though I wont be using a race gas progam. Someone mentioned earlier that their car ran better because there is no chance of timing pull.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

even race gas on a non race prog will yeil alot more power cause the ecu will see the higher octance and compansate by not pulling as much timing if any at all, i use race gas on stock timing levels alot and it was great!


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_even race gas on a non race prog will yeil alot more power cause the ecu will see the higher octance and compansate by not pulling as much timing if any at all, i use race gas on stock timing levels alot and it was great!

Awesome, thanks thats the answer I was looking for http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: (loudgli)*

For everyone that is crazy for dyno numbers i have the next best thing







Pulling on a stock 350Z w/cold air intake.And i had a 220lbs passenger on 18's. We were pretty much dead even but i always had about half a car on him from 1-3 gears. 4th is when i would start pulling a lil more and with a 220lbs passenger http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif im sure with an inlet pipe and 100oct they would be no sweat







races like these pwn dynos in my opinion








p.s i have a crappy phone videos of it too








http://s35.photobucket.com/alb...1.flv

_Modified by 1.8 Neckbreaka at 1:25 PM 6-10-2007_

_Modified by 1.8 Neckbreaka at 1:30 PM 6-10-2007_


_Modified by 1.8 Neckbreaka at 1:31 PM 6-10-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

dam i beat 350z's when i was stage 2, 3 inch TBE revo and a TIP


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

I pulled a little on one when I had my k03s as well.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I wish my car sounded more like a 350z. Or even a VR6...Right now it sounds way more dirty at low rpm's and way more buzzy and rattley at high rpm's...


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

Has anyone tried an electronic/digital boost controller with this kit? I.e. something that factors in things like RPM and uses a closed-loop system? Like an APEXi. I'm not sure if the others are as good, I know the APEXi is one of the more popular ones for our cars but I haven't heard of a whole lot of people using it with a chippd ECU, mostly people seem to have stand-alone's... Just asking because it seems like there must be a more intelligent/accurate way of controlling boost than a system that hasn't changed significantly since 1998 and that wasn't intended for more than 8-10 psi...


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

noone really has a need for them, y waste all that money


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Because sometimes it's senseless to boost to 23psi when you're at 2500 rpm, it just puts added stress on everything, and gets everything hot before it can really be useful. If boost could somewhat ramp up with RPM, then I think you'd get better performance.
Also, and probably most importantly, boost should be gear sensitive. No point boosting to 23psi in 6th gear unless you're over 4k rpm. Boost loves to shoot to the max when you step on it when you're already going fast in a high gear. All that does though is make drivability worse and put stress on the motor. It's better with the N75 than with a MBC but it's still far from perfect.
I think if you had precise enough control, you might be able to better match requested vs actual boost, so that the ECU isn't constantly adapting and so that it gets what it expects. The closer the figures are, the better performance and drivability you get... at least in my little tiny experience.
Whenever I get the N75 and the wastegate actuator set right, you can really tell - and it doesn't take much change for performance and drivability to be greatly effected. It takes a lot of messing around with it to get a good setting, and I've found that when it's good, I even get better gas milage - it stops bursting at part throttle (as opposed to boosting) which I think eats up a lot of gas.


_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 7:48 PM 6-11-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

control your foot if you dont want 23psi at 2500 rpms then...... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif the most stress you wngine will endore will be between 3k and 4500 rpms with this kit
these ecus dont constantly adapt like you think it does, its always learning but after 3 full duty cycles that basicly it until you reset it


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Yeah but it's really not cool if you let your friends drive it and they can't figure out how to get it to boost right. I mean is there really nothing more you can do to improve that even with some of these fancy gear and multiple sensor based controllers?
I'm just saying, yeah i can use my foot, but that takes away from both boost and throttle. I figure there has to be something more like launch control but for boost. May seem stupid to you but maybe if you entertained the idea for a second, you could add to or improve it rather than just shooting it down.
Just because you didn't do it or because you know more about most of this stuff, doesn't mean other ideas aren't worth thinking about, I mean did anyone try it with this kit? My guess is not, but I know it gets good reviews from standalone users, yet I doubt their standalone ECU's are that different from ours when it comes to boost control...


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_Yeah but it's really not cool if you let your friends drive it and they can't figure out how to get it to boost right. I mean is there really nothing more you can do to improve that even with some of these fancy gear and multiple sensor based controllers?
I'm just saying, yeah i can use my foot, but that takes away from both boost and throttle. I figure there has to be something more like launch control but for boost. May seem stupid to you but maybe if you entertained the idea for a second, you could add to or improve it rather than just shooting it down.
Just because you didn't do it or because you know more about most of this stuff, doesn't mean other ideas aren't worth thinking about, I mean did anyone try it with this kit? My guess is not, but I know it gets good reviews from standalone users, yet I doubt their standalone ECU's are that different from ours when it comes to boost control...

I could probably give away my secrets to 2 stage boost. You'd only get like 10-11psi to 4k?







That was really annoying to drive. Granted now even, I still don't see full boost til like 3-3200 unless I'm on the highway putting massive load on.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_I could probably give away my secrets to 2 stage boost. You'd only get like 10-11psi to 4k?







That was really annoying to drive. Granted now even, I still don't see full boost til like 3-3200 unless I'm on the highway putting massive load on.

get them hand grenades ready


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

i didn't say stupid boost i said smart boost


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
get them hand grenades ready


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

goin to the dyno tommarow with an AWW k0420 GTI
spent most of the past week with it, redoing some things, replacing some things, tweaking some things. when he brought it to me it made 210 wheel and felt sluggish to me, after ding some things it feels a hell of alot stronger and made the owner very happy. were goin to a well known local DSM shop tommarow where i do all of my dynoing on a dynojet inground dyno.
wish me luck


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_goin to the dyno tommarow with an AWW k0420 GTI
spent most of the past week with it, redoing some things, replacing some things, tweaking some things. when he brought it to me it made 210 wheel and felt sluggish to me, after ding some things it feels a hell of alot stronger and made the owner very happy. were goin to a well known local DSM shop tommarow where i do all of my dynoing on a dynojet inground dyno.
wish me luck

We'll only wish you luck once you spill the beans on the tuning secrets!!!


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

whut tuning seacrets?


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_whut tuning seacrets?

O ish... someone is wasted?
Lemmiwinks secrets...


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i dont know what your talking about


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Let me know what numbers it puts down. I have an AWW. I was gonna dyno this weekend but someone rear ended my car monday morning. So she's getting a makeover at the shop.







.














Good thing is im getting a whole new exhaust and i'm shaving her rear. The guys insurance is paying for everything.







Which 3 inch exhaust would you guys go with? apr, ghl, maxpsi, or eurojet? Those are my choices. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 7:56 AM 6-13-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:18 AM 6-13-2007_


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

eurojet b/c i wann hear a what it sounds like...


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (bmxp)*

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...27153
That's a link to the sound clips of the 3 inch euro jet exhaust. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

haha didn't know they had it up...


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Whatever one is cheapest and keep the change for a rainy day. All exhausts do the same thing IMO... and most of them sound very similar as well.


----------



## Dragonfly (Dec 9, 2003)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_Here's a couple pics of my car at dyno day: Engine Bay and Outside...
...
God damn pick whores. I guess I'll just put my pics right in the thread too.
















What did you use on your airbox?









_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 12:24 AM 6-5-2007_


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (Dragonfly)*

Hey that's my car. Airbox? That's a standard TT airbox with the textured covers to match the engine covers, front shelf cover, water/washer/belts cover and bettery cover.
After tweaking the vacuum lines last night for the most simple vacuum system possible, this is what everything looks like (crappy day shots, will post better next time







)
















But I'm actually showing changes here, and the airbox texture - i.e., it's not excuse for everyone to pic whore again.


















_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 3:44 PM 6-13-2007_


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I have gone with the 3 inch EUROJET cat back system. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

249 wheel and 273 wtq at 23psi spike and 19 settled. theres a few more to be had but the owner was so happy i was tipped 100 bux on a 175 dollar bill


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Dude I already offered a plane ticket, don't you want to come to california? If you make 249whp I'll give you $100 too.







< chilling in cali with the shades for a day tuning a car... cooool.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

$275 to get a car running right? holy ish. I'd be broke as hell. At this point I couldn't pay $100.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

my original bill was 150, he gave me 175, then we drove the car to get food and he bought me lunch and gave me a crumbled 100 dollar bill and was like you deserve this i love this friken car now


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

2306, your boost pipe sit really compared to mine and others, that may be why it rubs


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_2306, your boost pipe sit really compared to mine and others, that may be why it rubs

My boost pipe sits real high. I really need to get some heat shielding on that bad boy and some heat wrapping on that uppipe/dp.
I put my new MAP sensor in tonight... and my car runs MUCH better. It's still not holding the boost it's supposed to (still doing 20psi then tapering to 15psi), but the partial throttle is 100% better and there isn't random boost surging. I'm not sure if all of my boost leaks are gone yet, but I'm going to pressure test my car this friday and I'll know then I guess. I'm actually feeling like I may be able to SPS3 it up a bit now. I'm still going to work on finding some t-bolts or something to make sure there's no possible way I have a leak. I'll let everyone know... but my car definitely feels much better w/the new sensor (it still may need a new o-ring to be 100% sealed, so I'll find out when I pressure test it I guess.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_2306, your boost pipe sit really compared to mine and others, that may be why it rubs

Long term it doesn't seem to be a problem, it doesn't actually touch the motor normally, I think it might if you got enough movement from the motor but right now you have to push on the pipe, about 1/4" in a certain direction, to make it hit.
I know if I cut 1/2" off the end of the pipe, it will sit streight, right now it's pushed to the passengers side and up because it is as far into the outlet hose (the red forge one) as it can go but it's still not enough. I can have the pipe streight but that requires buckling the hose. I'll peobably either cut it or swap in a custom pipe that fits better and goes all the way to the intercooler without a second pipe or coupler.
All these transitions between expensive pipes require expensive clamps and in the end it's not even that great a fitment for me (might be my motor mount bushings or something) but I'd like to just build a pipe that was welded all the way and maybe even take a different route to avoid going directly over the exhaust mani (I was thinking of like a bow design, make it curve towards the front of the car and then back before making the turn down the side next to the passenger strut tower. Also I think 2.25" would be a better size since my IC is that size and I think the turbo is maybe even only 2" so 2.5" is a waste.
Could also weld half-pipe shields on the sides of the pipes that face the exhaust. Space them out with some 1/2" metal feet and weld them so they are a part of the pipe. This new pipe would probably only be able to be installed from below, and probably not on jack stands, but I'm ok with that.
Again, probably won't make a big performance difference, but it'll fit better in my particular car and it'll cost less (or else I won't bother). It couldn't hurt performance, there are several factors that are improved, even if those improvements only make small differences in practice.
If I can't get it done for the price I can sell the parts for then I won't do it but keep in mind there are almost $500 in parts on the way to my IC so it's not totally out of the question. It's just an idea for now.
The other idea I had was to find a really good FMIC and use the regular TT225 FMIC piping (like the 225 FMIC's have). Just would have to find something that could match the BF SMIC. The length of the piping isn't any longer than the SMIC piping I have now. I was also thinking of using a stock FSI intercooler, they are the size of radiators but only 3/4" thick, seems like a good way to expose the fins to the max amount of cool air. But not sure if it flows as well as others.










_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 1:44 AM 6-14-2007_


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_249 wheel and 273 wtq at 23psi spike and 19 settled. theres a few more to be had but the owner was so happy i was tipped 100 bux on a 175 dollar bill










Nice! Can you tell ur buddy to add the dyno sheet to this thread? Those are decent numbers. Was this on 93 oct.? Did you mess with any SPS settings? Was it on REVO SW? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

4gal of 93 with a cup full of toulene, this was all on revo sw, sps settings were hb2 t4. he was using the eurospec twin smic setup and was heat soaking fast so we let the car cool for about 20 min between the 3 runs. i am pretty sure he belongs to this site but iam not sure. i told him about this site/thread and his reaction was along the lines of "not really feeling internet chat room places" so who knows.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_4gal of 93 with a cup full of toulene, this was all on revo sw, sps settings were hb2 t4. he was using the eurospec twin smic setup and was heat soaking fast so we let the car cool for about 20 min between the 3 runs. i am pretty sure he belongs to this site but iam not sure. i told him about this site/thread and his reaction was along the lines of "not really feeling internet chat room places" so who knows.

All we want is his dyno sheets, he does not need to participate in the thread if he don't want to.










_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:10 AM 6-14-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i prob wont post them


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

high boost 2? timing 4? How the hell is 19psi high boost 2? I'm on HB4-5 and only doing like 20-21.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_i prob wont post them









Why don't you make that his decision. Tell him lots and lots of fellow K04 users are begging him to, and that it will only end up helping him in the long run because the more Dyno's we can get for different setups, the more information we will have on what works well.
I mean who knows, maybe he can just ditch the side mounts and keep the TT intake mani and get a TT FMIC. Maybe it's better for this kit than having even a BF SMIC, I don't know of anyone who has actually tried a streight across IC on this kit, everyone has the in an out on the same side. The piping is shorter with the TT FMIC's...
I was thinking of a Garret FMIC core with forge TT225 FMIC piping and the Forge front bumper support, anyone know if the Precision FMIC cores are better, or if there is another that is?


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

bmxp runs a greddy


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_bmxp runs a greddy



So did I


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

I have Eurojet


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i had a eurojet v1, didnt like it so i sold it


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

I hear good things about the EUROJET SIDE MOUNT INTERCOOLER! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

pics?????


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_pics?????

Plenty of pics on there new website! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
http://www.eurojetracing.com/


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

nice


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_i had a eurojet v1, didnt like it so i sold it

How come you didnt like it? thats what im running and it runs great


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

hhow much?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Comes with all that in the picture and it's suppose to be somewhere in between BF and TYROL in pricing. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Eurojet makes good products. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I just ordered there new 3 inch catback system. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:12 PM 6-15-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

cewl


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_How come you didnt like it? thats what im running and it runs great

The new version runs great... the old ones had **** ass cores and didn't work that much better than a smic... haha like really bad cores


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_
The new version runs great... the old ones had **** ass cores and didn't work that much better than a smic... haha like really bad cores

THATS WHY I LOVE YOU BUDDY


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
THATS WHY I LOVE YOU BUDDY

Do you love me?


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_THATS WHY I LOVE YOU BUDDY


what?








confused...


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
THATS WHY I LOVE YOU BUDDY

Are you sure it's not cause he's a guy?


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

Wow... quiet... did I say something....


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

dynod my charger for sh!ts and giggles, with a K/N drop in i did 302 wheel and 341 wtq stock and the car is an auto, not bad for 350/390 stock to the flywheel
i still think the gti was faster though


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_dynod my charger for sh!ts and giggles, with a K/N drop in i did 302 wheel and 341 wtq stock and the car is an auto, not bad for 350/390 stock to the flywheel
*i still think the gti was faster though*

I think that's the first positive thing you've ever said about the k04-020 setup... EVAR! Sorry, just had to bold it for future generations to read


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

look all over this thread i listed the good and bad, lots of good and lots of bad with this kit!
i just recieved a email from a guy in NY who wants to bring his car to me for a day and hes got this kit, so well see what i can try and do for him
on a side note, my charger is 4500+ lbs and only a hair slower than the gti was, off the line the gti would def take it but up top i think the gti and charger would be very close.


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

pssh eff the k04

Charger FTW








post


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_look all over this thread i listed the good and bad, lots of good and lots of bad with this kit!
i just recieved a email from a guy in NY who wants to bring his car to me for a day and hes got this kit, so well see what i can try and do for him
on a side note, my charger is 4500+ lbs and only a hair slower than the gti was, off the line the gti would def take it but up top i think the gti and charger would be very close.


Why would he go to you if im in NY. He should just come to me and i wont even charge him.







When you done with his car you can tell him to come see me in his car and we'll race to see about your tunning.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

sounds good


----------



## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

dyno yet? 50 pages.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (GiacGtiAgain)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GiacGtiAgain* »_dyno yet? 50 pages.

We don't do dynos. Seriously. It's not really our thing. Actually... I don't think anyone that is currently taking part in this thread has a properly running k04-020. Well... that's a lie. I can think of 2 people that do. But I'd say a good portion have a 90% properly running k04 setup haha. Mine is probably running at it's best thus far... but I'd only guess maybe 220s-230swhp and 260swtq. I'm not dynoing for that.


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I should be dynoing August 11th. I need to work some stuff out before then. It will also be hot and humid as Shaquille O'neill's armpit here in Florida at that time. We'll see what happens. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by nuther337 at 7:52 PM 6-18-2007_


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (nuther337)*

Hopefully, all of you will be @ WATERFEST next month to see my dyno and 1/4 mile times. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Hopefully i'll have my car back from the body shop by then.







But other than that, my car is running pretty solid when it's in one piece. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

....


_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 8:10 PM 6-18-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_
Wow dude that is really something.







----------------------> .

whats that mean?


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_dynod my charger for sh!ts and giggles, with a K/N drop in i did 302 wheel and 341 wtq stock and the car is an auto, not bad for 350/390 stock to the flywheel
i still think the gti was faster though

<ot-ramt>
Wow dude that is really something. You gunna buy another mkiv now? Or is it ok to have a slower car so long as it's a more adult one? i know you'll make it faster but if it's stock form isn't much faster than a stock GTI, then you're fighting the same battle you did with your previous car.
If performance is important to you then wouldn't you want a purpose built sports car like an elise, an evo or and sti? I don't see how you gained much luxury over what you get with a VR6/leather/all options GTI. Marginal differences and you let down the team by leaving the scene, especially when most of what you tell us these days isn't exactly complementary of our choice of car.
</ot-rant>
No offense, kiddo, i just take offence to always being told my car sucks, then after so long, to hear that your car isn't faster even from the factory: it disturbs my calm.








Wishing you had bought an A3 like you said at first.










_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 8:12 PM 6-18-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

?????????
were did that come from? i am not biased againts your cars, just mk4's in general, i like many have seen now that the mk2/3's are the way to go, light and they have roven to make great power when mod'd
i dont know how many more times i gotta say that your cars dont suck, just that i would never buy another mk4 again!
yea i sold my gti cause i thought it was a kiddie car, and to me it was, bright blue, low, loud, and a atention getter, still a cool car, but i feel i grew out of it
i chose the charger over the a3 cause for the price you get more with the charger, not to mention a stock charger un molested is a pubic curly hair slower than my k0420 gti which was actually very qiuck
if i took the money i spent on the turbo kit and bought just bolt ons for my hemi i would be in the constant mid 12s but i doubt ill do that cause i am trying to grow up and spend my money wisely instead on a non investment car
on a diff. note, the kids car i was toying with is doing great but he says hes gettin a loss in boost uptop so ill be checking it out tommarow after work. i saw him at a local car spot hang out tonite and he said hes been watching this thread. i told him to post up but he declined
he showed me some of the other cars hes beat. alot of them were v8 stangs and swapped hatches. its pretty cool


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Ok fine, truce.
Beating cars is not really a science. I dunno but it was very, extremely, only happened a couple of times, rare that I ever got smoked before I got this kit. So far I haven't got smoked but I'm sure if I wanted to get smoked, I could just go to the track and then it would be certain.
I can't really see how a Mk2 or Mk3 would be better because the Mk4 hasn't got all that much more weight, the 337 probably isn't more than 300lbs more than a mk3 for example, if that - and the weight is all in stuff you'd want, like modern accessories and such. I mean if you want to make a rocket ship with no daily driver qualities, I bet a mk1 or mk2 would be the best. But I can't see having anything less than a corrado for daily, not if you want a nice car, cause nice is more than just fast or handling.
Also, if weight is an issue, i bet a stripped down mk4 has a better center of gravity and it might even weigh less than the mk3. The mk1 was much smaller, not sure about mk2.
Anyhow, we're apparently not arguing so... damn... that's no fun.









_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 10:10 PM 6-18-2007_


_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 10:11 PM 6-18-2007_


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

Ok, so after months of waiting I finally have a 100% complete K04-023 kit








I've been waiting on the Pro-Imports downpipe adapter for a while now (it was the last piece I needed for the kit, and of course they were on backorder) and it finally showed up last Friday. I now have everything I need to install this kit in my GLI http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Here's a quick picture of everything I've got:








If all goes well, the kit will be in the car by this Friday. I've already got REVO K04-02x software flashed in my car, so all i have to do once I get the turbo installed is switch from Stock mode to Performance mode with my SPS3. I'm planning to tune the car with lemmiwinks and the SPS3 over the weekend then hopefully by the end of next week I'll have the car running the way I want it and ready for the dyno. I'll post back with an update once I get the kit installed


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

One hint: if you're using the stock oil feed line (or any line that is hard like that), BE SURE TO TIGHTEN THE SIDE ON THE MOTOR FIRST. If you tigten the turbo first, it wiil be really difficult to get the banjo bolt to go in streight. Ask me how I know:

I got my car back together 3 separate times before I finally got it on without stripping another housing. That housing is made out of soda bottles. If the banjo doesn't turn by hand, then don't use a tool to turn it.
I mean that's all if you are doing it yourself. If you have a shop doing it then they probably won't be so dumb. I had never installed a turbo before, in fact I had never even changed my own oil by myself before, so this was a learning experience for me. 2 weeks for the first time, 1 day for second, 4-5 hours for the final time.

















_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 12:15 AM 6-19-2007_


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

Best thread evar

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3295151

and to the guy above... yeah that part was a bitch took me like 5hrs to get that **** down


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

Thanks for the hint 20AE-2306, but I've already ditched the stock oil feed line. When I was first researching this kit, I came across a few horror stroies about people trying to get the oem TT oil feed line to line up properly. Having read about the trouble I decided to go with a custom oil feed line to save my self the hassle. I bought a 44" stainless steel braided line, an adapter for the oil filter housing and a banjo adapter for the turbo. I've actually got it installed right now with the stock K03s and it's working just fine. I was very glvd to find out the K03s and the K04-023 use the same threads for the oil feed line http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Oh and I know how you feel about installing and uninstalling turbo kits... I installed a GT2X kit on my GLI a few months ago... It turned out to be the biggest waste of time and money I could imagine so I uninstalled it two weeks later and reinstalled my stock turbo. Now finally, I have everything needed to install the K04-023. I figure since I've already had the stock turbo out of the car once I should be able to knock this out in 3-5 hours with help from a buddy of mine










_Modified by 20vTurboGLI at 3:54 AM 6-19-2007_


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

Yeah the main reason for the time it took the first time around was that I had bought all new studs for the exhaust manifold and there are like a dozen of them and we got 10 off and the last two wouldn't go. I wouldn't recommend changing the studs to my worst enemy. I'm glad I have nice new studs but it wasn't worth the extra week and all the blowtorching, double-nut wrenching, etc.
I don't know about the TT oil feed line but I was able to use the stock K03 oil feed line, only hard part was that you had to bolt it onto the turbo before bolting the turbo to the manifold, and since it's a hard line, it doesn't want to let you go where you need to. The main reason I stripped the oil filter housing so many times was that I kept having to take the turbo back off because I was getting leaks at the oil feed banjo on top of the turbo. That's really the hardest part of the install, I mean otherwise it's really dead easy. I had already removed all the hard metal vacuum lines, so taking out the oil feed line wasn't going to be hard, I just didn't know an easy way to get another hose made like you did. Maybe you can post the exact parts you used cause I know if I ever take my turbo back off for any reason, I'm going to want to change that line!
Only other thing you have to watch out for with the K04's (some of them anyway) are the bolts on the turbo, where the exhaust mani bolts up: the three holes have liners that can get destroyed pretty easily. I stripped all mine and had to get new liners pressed in (and drilled out to be the same size because the liners that were in there were non-standard, i.e. the ones that normally have that size OD are normally much smaller ID).
Sounds like you have experience, so it'll be easy for you. I just did my turbo 3 times but I count each one as a new install because I basically started over and encountered some brand new problems each time.










_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 2:14 AM 6-19-2007_


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

And I thought I was the only one that spend an hour trying to get the banjo bolt to line up correctly on the turbo for the oil feed line.








Oh yeah good luck bending those stupid coolant pipes out of the road too.


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (loudgli)*

i warned ya


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_And I thought I was the only one that spend an hour trying to get the banjo bolt to line up correctly on the turbo for the oil feed line.








Oh yeah good luck bending those stupid coolant pipes out of the road too.









LOL! WHy do you think I warned you be4hand about this? I installed my k04-20 five times be4 i got it right.


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_
LOL! WHy do you think I warned you be4hand about this? I installed my k04-20 five times be4 i got it right.
















I dont know how else you would install that feed line








It really wasn't terrible. I did get frustrated a bit. There is no way I would have been able to do it without another set of hands.
BTW, some friends and I are going to the track this friday. I get to see how fast my heavy GLI "isn't". I guess Im more interested to see my trap speeds and compare them to the ko3. I doubt Ill launch super aggresive because Im on a stock clutch. I may run some race gas just to make sure the car doesn't pull timing. This will give me a baseline so I can do some tuning now that I got my cable to work with Custom Code.


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_
I guess Im more interested to see my trap speeds and compare them to the ko3. I doubt Ill launch super aggresive because Im on a stock clutch. 

I'm on stock clutch with 77,XXX. Launch that bad boy!


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_And I thought I was the only one that spend an hour trying to get the banjo bolt to line up correctly on the turbo for the oil feed line.








Oh yeah good luck bending those stupid coolant pipes out of the road too.









I think it was one of your posts that made me decide to go custom with the oil feed line :








And no worries about the coolant lines, I'm using a custom feed/return lines for the turbo and I had to bend the hard lines next to the turbo out of the way on my last turbo install. In fact, I customized those lines as well









_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_
I just didn't know an easy way to get another hose made like you did. Maybe you can post the exact parts you used cause I know if I ever take my turbo back off for any reason, I'm going to want to change that line! 

Here are the parts I used:
Kinetic Motorsports 44" Stainless Steel Briaded Oil Feed Line 
Kinetic Motorsports -4 AN 90* Fitting
Integrated Engineering Oil Filter Housing Adapter (M12 x 1.50 to -4 AN)
ATP -4 AN to 12mm Banjo Bolt Adapter
I don't have time right now to post links right now, but I'll get them up later. The only thing I would change about my line is the length, you don't really need 44" but Kinetic Motorsports was out of the 36" line so I had to go with the longer one. Also, if you're a big fan of Banjo Bolts you could make the line a little more simple and buy the 36" line and two of the ATP -4 AN to 12mm Banjo Bolt Adapters. I chose the route I did because I'm not a huge fan of banjo bolts, I used the one on the turbo because it's the only way to fit the feed line between the turbo and the manifold.
To install the line, I used the Banjo adapter at the turbo with the oem banjo bolt and the 90* fitting with Oil Filter housing adapter at the oem oil feed supply on the oil filter housing http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


_Modified by 20vTurboGLI at 5:26 PM 6-19-2007_


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

I was thinking of simply cutting the ends off the stock hose and just buying some nice Aeroquip socketless hose to use. I did that with the water feed and it's worked perfectly. I still used hose clamps even though you don't technically need them with socketless. I think you need them if you don't use their fittings, and especially because if you cut the ends off the stock hoses, there will be no barb to keep the hose from slipping off...


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_
Only other thing you have to watch out for with the K04's (some of them anyway) are the bolts on the turbo, where the exhaust mani bolts up: the three holes have liners that can get destroyed pretty easily. I stripped all mine and had to get new liners pressed in (and drilled out to be the same size because the liners that were in there were non-standard, i.e. the ones that normally have that size OD are normally much smaller ID).
_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 2:14 AM 6-19-2007_

Same thing happened to me last week, the insert got totally stripped and the bolt came off while i was driving. Had to take the insert to a machine shop for them to straighten it out, nontheless they did a good job and the bolts are nice and tight.
I went to Audi to see if i could get the insert and they couldnt even get a part number of it, i guess it comes with the turbo and i aint gonna dish out a G for a damn insert








but yea it was a PITA


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

ok so i got the car back from this kid. he tore a IC coupler right in half. i am keeping the car again overnight to play with a few more things, and i plan on using my new cell phone to take pics of his dynp sheet when he brings it to me tommarow and i may post up here if i am in a nice mood








i will say the 5 speed guys have a much more fun car to drive with this kit vs the 6 speed, i noticed it today after fixing the coupler


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

Ok here are the links to the parts needed to create a custom oil feed line if anyone is interested:
Kinetic Motorsports 36" Stainless Steel Briaded Oil Feed Line
Kinetic Motorsports 90* -4 AN Swivel Fitting
Integrated Engineering Oil Filter Housing Adapter (M12 x 1.50 to -4 AN)
ATP -4 AN to 12mm Banjo Bolt Adapter


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i never had to bad of an issue, but then again i have installed alot of kits and was use to it, any good mechanicly incline guy can get it with no issues


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
i will say the 5 speed guys have a much more fun car to drive with this kit vs the 6 speed, i noticed it today after fixing the coupler

I am in complete agreement with you here!







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Ok so I've been suspicious of ignition problems for a while now, I bought new spark plugs a week ago and a month or two before that I bought new coilpacks. Today, when I was pushing the car pretty hard, it started repeat misfiring and the CEL started flashing. I took it easy but didn't stop driving and after like 20-30 seconds, it stopped flashing and turned back off (no CEL). I went home and scanned the car, got general intermittant misfires and specific intermittant misfires on cyls 1&4. 
Since I had to go on a 400m trip up to San Francisco from LA, I went to the dealer and got a best buds with the parts guy price on the bolt down coil packs. I swapped them into my car and got on the road up to SF. I ran into the problem again several times even with the new coils but each time it would turn back off and run fine again, I just couldn't push it too hard or who knows what.
Anyhow, I suspect water temp sensor even though I have the new black one. I don't suspect the wiring because I re-wrapped it recently with fresh electrical tape and it all looked fine and not to be cracking or anything. I also have been running with a heat shield over most of the wiring.
So I guess I'd really like any advice you guys have.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_Ok so I've been suspicious of ignition problems for a while now, I bought new spark plugs a week ago and a month or two before that I bought new coilpacks. Today, when I was pushing the car pretty hard, it started repeat misfiring and the CEL started flashing. I took it easy but didn't stop driving and after like 20-30 seconds, it stopped flashing and turned back off (no CEL). I went home and scanned the car, got general intermittant misfires and specific intermittant misfires on cyls 1&4. 
Since I had to go on a 400m trip up to San Francisco from LA, I went to the dealer and got a best buds with the parts guy price on the bolt down coil packs. I swapped them into my car and got on the road up to SF. I ran into the problem again several times even with the new coils but each time it would turn back off and run fine again, I just couldn't push it too hard or who knows what.
Anyhow, I suspect water temp sensor even though *I have the new black one*. I don't suspect the wiring because I re-wrapped it recently with fresh electrical tape and it all looked fine and not to be cracking or anything. I also have been running with a heat shield over most of the wiring.
So I guess I'd really like any advice you guys have.









You mean green, right? Black ones are the faulty stock ones? At least that's what I've been told and have always thought.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Green is new, black is old. But there is a recently VAG updated GREEN TOp sensor which is like 20 bucks.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

BAD MAF? O2 sensor? vac leak? VAG updated green top sensor? cracked wiring harness? I'd try those! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Can't be Coil Packs or Spark pluggs if you recently changed them.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

I mean green, whatever the newest is. I guess they are cheap, I could try a new one. What can I do to test the MAF? I'm guessing it has to be a sensor because it's only happening at high load/RPM.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i told you its not the COIL packs
if your engine light flashes then ost likely its a plug issue, i know u got new plugs but replae them again and gap them accordingly, its possible to install faulty new plugs......
also inspet the wired to the coils.........
i am gonna stop offering advice cause noone listens to me LOL


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

How can I check the wiring to the coils? I mean it's working almost all the time, only when I gun it do I have the problem. I tried new plugs today, didn't fix it.
Also, if it was the water temp sensor, wouldn't I get a code for that? I know it's not O2's cause I just replaced both of them a few weeks ago.
I mean all these other sensors and stuff, wouldn't they throw their own codes if they were faulty? I mean the MAF for example, is it really possible for the MAF to be bad and have it cause misfires but not get a code for the MAF?
CEL stayed on today after it happened again, I think because it happened enough times for it to think it's not just a one time thing.
So how can I check the coilpack wiring? Can I run new grounds to each coilpack streight from the battery? I guess I could make a new harness going from the ECU to the coils, using stringer gauge wires with better protective coverings...
Do the coilpack wires normally only crack right next to the coilpacks? Or do I have to check the whole wire from ECU to coils?


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

mainly th part tat wraps ontop of the valve cover, its not any other sensor, might wanna check yuour rubber spark plug gaskets, sometimes if u didnt set them right then oil can get into the spark plug cavity and cause misfires drowning out the plug, i bet 100 bucks thats your prob since i know u did a new cover recently


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

I just pulled the spark plugs out and put new ones, the ones I pulled out were bone dry, no oil whatsoever. I wish it was that simple. I'll check the wiring, I guess I'll unwrap the harness again and re-do it.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

hemi charger ftw!


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_ What can I do to test the MAF? I'm guessing it has to be a sensor because it's only happening at high load/RPM.









Can't you just unplug the MAF to check if its related to that?
When my car was running very badly when I first installed my kit. GIAC had my shop log 115 and 117 to determine requested and actual boost and was able to tell from this that the MAF was bad. Im not sure how you would interpret the numbers but maybe someone else knows.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (loudgli)*

its not the maf, a flashing light indacates a serious misfire/electrical prob


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Yeah i cleaned the MAF and it made no difference whatsoever.
I checked the coilpack wiring and couldn't see any problems.
I have the green coolent sensor, I replaced it not too long ago.
The car was running perfectly until 3 days ago. Sure, the idle was a little rough but it hadn't had a CEL since I fixed the secondary air.
Amythink alse it could be? If there was a short somewhere else in the car, could that cause this to happen? I have no dtc's other than the misfire ones...










_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 5:18 PM 6-21-2007_


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

Have you checked all your turbo hoses lately? Could be a leak. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

what injectors? White tops = the gay


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_its not the maf, a flashing light indacates a serious misfire/electrical prob


MAF's cause flashing CEL's alot of times when they go bad and can easily make the car missfire


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

ehh rare occasion but yeah they can
BTW: Tool is possibly the best band ever. Tool army right here


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

A flashing cel light according to your owners manual means your cat is possibly damaged/ clogged, but what does the manual know about VW's







Anyway, I dont know how this applies to your exhaust situation ,but if you read your manual under cel/mil, it states that if your cel is flashing that it is cat/emissions related. I would still check if your plugs are correctly gapped at 26-28. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif How is your carbon buildup situation looking? 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 5:24 PM 6-22-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Well... for whatever it's worth, I'm going to log tomorrow and I may have to share my logs w/everyone to get some opinions. I really need to get my ish running properly. I'm sick of effing around w/it. I think I'm finally running a closed system... I'm getting some compressor surging at real low boost/partial throttle. WTF is up w/the n75 config? I'm going to use the info 2306 gave me to redo my vac lines soon. I need to get my DV running straight off of my intake manifold. I'm also going to get my ABD on once I'm sure my car is running properly. I'm still tapering to 15psi @ redline. Any ideas? Or maybe my logs will show something... Just felt necessary to post cause no one has in a while haha. BUmp?


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I've long suspected my cat to be clogged, I was driving around with blown turbos for quite a while. I had a K04-001 and a K03S, both leaking oil past the seals into the exhaust. I never saw anything come out other than smoke at the time so I'm assuming that the oil can't have burned away that cleanly. My exhaust is very lazy sounding, I can't really describe it but it doesn't sound efficient or clean.
I checked the codes again today and this time it said cyls 1 and 3 were misfiring, last time it was 1 and 4, so it's probably not the wiring. It also had a code for "Fuel Level Low" - wtf?
I put brand new plugs today, NGK BKR7E's, and I can't get it to do the rapid misfire thing but at the same time things just don't feel that great. CEL is off right now but I have a feeling it'll come back on shortly.


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

Just wanted to post up results from the track last night. 
Im running pretty much full weight. I took the rear seats and tire out, but I have about 50lbs worth of amps and mounting board that were still in the car, so i figure its about full weight.
I was on 18's with 225 Michelin PS2 variant tires.
I ran a few gallons of race gas, to try to keep timing pull down.
The temperature in the car read 88 degrees at the track.
Ok so on with it already!
My best run of the night was 13.9 @ 103 w/ a 2.3 60'
The car felt really strong. Launching was well pretty poor. I got six runs in and most of the 60's were 2.4 to 2.5. The car seemed to either want to wheel hop really bad or bog. I think the 2.3 I slipped the clutch just right.
I found out that the car runs faster when I shift at about 6000-6200 versus going to 6500-7000. 
Comparing runs against my buddies STI and 335. My best time was only .2 tenths slower than the 335. And I trapped the same mph just about everytime as both cars. Right around 102-103. You can't compete with that AWD though. I think his best time was 13.1. He is stock except for exhaust and intake. 
The fastest STI there was running like 11.2's








There was a Chevy Duramax 2500 with only software and exhaust running 12.90's







Probably one of the coolest runs I saw all night. 
Anyway Im please with my times. I was going for low 14's and since I breached into the 13's Im happy. Comparing notes from my ko3 with the same car/wheel/exhaust and GIAC X+, I picked up a second and a half and 10 mph.


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (loudgli)*

Cool man, It took me a few tries to breach the 13 second mark. Go post in the 2007 race ladder and represent for the k04-20's! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (nuther337)*

Ok so I ran some logs thursday night. I just got them graphed. Not sure if I graphed it right but take a look and see what you guys think. It was 90 degrees and humid out so it might account for the timing pull. This was a 3rd gear pull by the way. 93 octane gas.


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

9 degrees of pull?


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Yeah, I understand that to be pretty high. I was a bit worried until just now, when I went out and took some more logs. I still had some race gas from last night in the tank. I got zero degrees pull all across the board. Its about 15 degrees cooler than it was the other day also.
I have to attribute the logs from the other day to the heat. I will run another log in a couple of days on pump gas when its not over 90 outside.


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_Yeah, I understand that to be pretty high. I was a bit worried until just now, when I went out and took some more logs. I still had some race gas from last night in the tank. I got zero degrees pull all across the board. Its about 15 degrees cooler than it was the other day also.
I have to attribute the logs from the other day to the heat. I will run another log in a couple of days on pump gas when its not over 90 outside.

You should be running your logs in the "worst case" not the "best case" scenarios. You're pulling too much timing. In fact, it looks like your timing advance falls below what you're pulling at one point. What are your current settings? Do you have an SPS3? I would definitely suggest backing them down. Unless of course you're always going to run a gal or 2 of race gas to compensate. Otherwise 93oct you're going to want to back them down as you're losing more power than you're gaining based on what I saw. 9* of pull isn't ideal, but isn't terrible either. The real issue is you have to look at what you're advancing when you're pulling that much. If pull > advance then you're actually hurting performance and possibly your engine in the long run. Just my .02 on the matter.


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
You should be running your logs in the "worst case" not the "best case" scenarios. You're pulling too much timing. In fact, it looks like your timing advance falls below what you're pulling at one point. What are your current settings? Do you have an SPS3? I would definitely suggest backing them down. Unless of course you're always going to run a gal or 2 of race gas to compensate. Otherwise 93oct you're going to want to back them down as you're losing more power than you're gaining based on what I saw. 9* of pull isn't ideal, but isn't terrible either. The real issue is you have to look at what you're advancing when you're pulling that much. If pull > advance then you're actually hurting performance and possibly your engine in the long run. Just my .02 on the matter. 

All of that makes good sense. My only issue now is I havent made adjustments because im not using revo. I am just running GIAC like it was when it was flashed. If I do end up backing it down I will have to use custom code to do so, and Im not sure I want to do that just yet. I think its supposed to be hot and muggy here again today. Ill go out and run some more test and see what I come up with. Thanks


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_My best run of the night was 13.9 @ 103 w/ a 2.3 60'


Sweet http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_
All of that makes good sense. My only issue now is I havent made adjustments because im not using revo. I am just running GIAC like it was when it was flashed. If I do end up backing it down I will have to use custom code to do so, and Im not sure I want to do that just yet. I think its supposed to be hot and muggy here again today. Ill go out and run some more test and see what I come up with. Thanks

Just use Lemmiwinks to back it down a few degrees. Sorry if I came off sounding a little tool bag ish. I was trying to type it before I left last night. I just hurried through it as much as possible haha. Sorry about that. Like I said, the pull part isn't terrible. You can pull 9* and be fine, but the catch is that if when you pull 9* you should still be advancing timing more than you're pulling. Otherwise hypothetically, at least, you could be making more power by having less timing (or boost to save heat). Honestly, I wouldn't make it an immediate issue. Most of your timing was still advancing pretty well. But if you have a real hot day you're going to be almost completely retarded or have very minimal advance. I've been working on getting some logs of my car now that it's hotter out and my boost is mostly squared away. I was running timing 3 and I'm currently running timing 2 since I can't really see what's going on. Logs FTW!


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

Hey whats everyones SPS3 settings at? and what octane are you using.
I just got one and set it at LB8 HB8 T4 (94oct)


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_Hey whats everyones SPS3 settings at? and what octane are you using.
I just got one and set it at LB8 HB8 T4 (94oct)

you can only have 1 boost setting, Not 2, so whatever u had last is your current setting, 
i ran HB4 T4 and with a mbc i set HB to 9(93 oct)
c116 i ran hb6 and t8 or 9


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
you can only have 1 boost setting, Not 2, so whatever u had last is your current setting, 
i ran HB4 T4 and with a mbc i set HB to 9(93 oct)
c116 i ran hb6 and t8 or 9

You must have some ridiculous 93oct to run that. I ran HB4 T4 and I was pulling like 12* of timing. I mean... It was close, but a little higher than I'd like to see. 
What about MBC set to HB 9? I don't know if I get that... but was that how you made 258whp? That almost makes sense. What did you hold to redline @ HB4 vs. HB9?


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i went into limp with the mbc set to anything less than 9 for some reason.
i had shwed a max pull of 6 degrees when i had it set to 4. on warmer days i would run at 2 or 3 but when i made my highest pull i did like hb9 and timing 6. i had one gallon of c16 mixed in with 6 gallons of 93. it was dillouted enough i think to not be considerd race gas any longer, but enough to raise the octane a few...
the 93 we get here has been waterd down i think. it is not what it once was a few years ago, it has 15 percent ethonal and doesnt seem that great, most places around me dropped 93 and now carry 92 now and test in the area have shown not to be that great compared to new 93 which already sucks


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

HA welcome to hte west coast... sorta in Washington we have 92 but i swear it's like watered down to a lower oct...
what do people use for 91 oct?


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*



04VDubGLI said:


> You must have some ridiculous 93oct to run that. I ran HB4 T4 and I was pulling like 12* of timing. I mean... It was close, but a little higher than I'd like to see.
> *What about MBC set to HB 9? I don't know if I get that... but was that how you made 258whp? That almost makes sense. What did you hold to redline @ HB4 vs. HB9?[/*QUOTE]
> You're killin me
> 
> ...


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Anyone have any interest in trying to get like a GB going on this or something?
http://www.slowboyracing.com/e...ler=Y
I feel like there should be some way to get that a lot cheaper. Or maybe someone can buy one and start copying them and selling them for cheaper?


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Anyone have any interest in trying to get like a GB going on this or something?
http://www.slowboyracing.com/e...ler=Y
I feel like there should be some way to get that a lot cheaper. Or maybe someone can buy one and start copying them and selling them for cheaper?









thats junkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk

but with or without the mbc i held 19-20psi at redline.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
thats junkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk

but with or without the mbc i held 19-20psi at redline.


How the hell do I get my car doing that? Seriously though... tomorrow my WG is getting a little cranky crank action. I need to run 13s this week. And dyno 240. Or I'm going to be angry about lots of stuff.


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

http://www.forgemotorsport.com...VAG01
How can I make freakin 260whp? haha


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

I just finished my K04-023 install http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
I worked on it throughout the weekend, a few hours each day and finally got everything installed and the car started up tonight. After letting the car idle for a while and checking throughly for leaks I took it for the first drive. I had my SPS 3 set at Boost: 9 / Timing: 4 (the same settings I ran on the K03s with REVO stage 2). I also had my Boostvalve Overboost Kit installed inline with the stock N75 so I could control the boost spike. I took it easy at first to let the turbo warm up a bit since it hadn't seen boost in a while (it's a used K04-023 from a TT 225 with less than 10,000 miles on it). Once the car reached normal temp I got on it a bit and the car ran amazing!!! I was seeing boost spikes of right around 25 and 18-19 psi at redline. The boost curve was amazingly smooth and I swear the K04 spools almost as fast as my old k03s. So far I'm very impressed with the kit and I can't wait to get out tomorrow and do some logs. I want to see what kind of lemmiwinks tweaks I can make to produce as much power as possible. If all goes well and I get the car tuned the way I want it, I should have the car on the dyno by the end of the week. Stayed tuned for more updates http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
EDIT: I have one question for everyone using the Pro-Imports K04 downpipe adapter. Right now, the way my GHL 2.5" downpipe is matched up the the Pro-Imports adapter, the downpipe is rubbing the bottom of the firewall and causing some unwanted vibration at idle and while taking off in first gear... I was wondering if anyone else had experienced this and if so what they did to fix it? Thanks.


_Modified by 20vTurboGLI at 4:38 AM 6-26-2007_


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_I just finished my K04-023 install http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
I worked on it throughout the weekend, a few hours each day and finally got everything installed and the car started up tonight. After letting the car idle for a while and checking throughly for leaks I took it for the first drive. I had my SPS 3 set at Boost: 9 / Timing: 4 (the same settings I ran on the K03s with REVO stage 2). I also had my Boostvalve Overboost Kit installed inline with the stock N75 so I could control the boost spike. I took it easy at first to let the turbo warm up a bit since it hadn't seen boost in a while (it's a used K04-023 from a TT 225 with less than 10,000 miles on it). Once the car reached normal temp I got on it a bit and the car ran amazing!!! I was seeing boost spikes of right around 25 and 18-19 psi at redline. The boost curve was amazingly smooth and I swear the K04 spools almost as fast as my old k03s. So far I'm very impressed with the kit and I can't wait to get out tomorrow and do some logs. I want to see what kind of lemmiwinks tweaks I can make to produce as much power as possible. If all goes well and I get the car tuned the way I want it, I should have the car on the dyno by the end of the week. Stayed tuned for more updates http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
EDIT: I have one question for everyone using the Pro-Imports K04 downpipe adapter. Right now, the way my GHL 2.5" downpipe is matched up the the Pro-Imports adapter, the downpipe is rubbing the bottom of the firewall and causing some unwanted vibration at idle and while taking off in first gear... I was wondering if anyone else had experienced this and if so what they did to fix it? Thanks.

_Modified by 20vTurboGLI at 4:38 AM 6-26-2007_

Im running a 3" miltek DP and I think I remember beating in some of the aluminum insulation at the bottom of the firewall. I dont think it took much. I do remember having to re-adjust my catback though as it seemed to have pushed my entire exhaust back a couple of inches. 
Congrats on the install. Sounds like its running well. Im considering doing a mbc on my setup soon.


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
How the hell do I get my car doing that? Seriously though... tomorrow my WG is getting a little cranky crank action. I need to run 13s this week. And dyno 240. Or I'm going to be angry about lots of stuff.

You should be able to do it. We have similar mods, similar car. It not throw that revo away. GIAC FTW


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_
EDIT: I have one question for everyone using the Pro-Imports K04 downpipe adapter. Right now, the way my GHL 2.5" downpipe is matched up the the Pro-Imports adapter, the downpipe is rubbing the bottom of the firewall and causing some unwanted vibration at idle and while taking off in first gear... I was wondering if anyone else had experienced this and if so what they did to fix it? Thanks.

_Modified by 20vTurboGLI at 4:38 AM 6-26-2007_


I use a 3 inch GHL DP mated to the PI uppipe. I have never had any rubbing issues. Be4 i did the install i bent in the heat shield as far away as possible from the exhaust. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

After my install I had my entire CBE removed and rehung. It never would line up again for me. So I ended up forking out the dough to just get it done right. Somehow I still get a fast rattle @ like 3.5k though. No clue where it is or how to fix it though. Makes me most angry.
I'm going to put my 17s on for the track when I go. No more 18s. I'm REALLY trying to find some 16s locally to borrow. Chances are it'll be my 17s. I feel like I should be able to nail like a 13.6-7 but that prob won't happen.


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

WHo will be attending waterfest? I am shooting for a 13.6-13.5. I will be running 15 inch snow tires in the front. It's all I have. It's either that or my heavy ass 18 inch RC's.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_WHo will be attending waterfest? I am shooting for a 13.6-13.5. I will be running 15 inch snow tires in the front. It's all I have. It's either that or my heavy ass 18 inch RC's.









snow tires FTW







http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3304084


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I would most def hit the track w/snow tires... if they were available to me. I have 17" all seasons. About the worst tires to take to the track. But, either those or the 18s. And I know the 18s are no good. So... pick the better of two evils really.
Val, I thought you had like a job or something







hahah. I'm going to pitts today to get my intake mani.


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

13.80 @ 103 on 18" all-seasons








Oh yeah, on REVO with "no" cranky cranked wastegate.


_Modified by nuther337 at 10:10 AM 6-26-2007_


----------



## VDub GLI04 (Jan 7, 2005)

*?? about ko4-22 on 1.8t..*

i was wondering what all i need if anything to bolt a ko4-22 on my gli if anything? was thinking about finding a used one with semi-low milage to take place of my stock ko3. All input is appreciated seems how i know almost nothing on this topic... thanx http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Greg8522 (Jun 14, 2004)

*Re: ?? about ko4-22 on 1.8t.. (VDub GLI04)*

this is a kit from pro-imports.com. you choose would you need from what you already have.
Equalizer K04-2X Turbo Kit:
K04-2X Turbo 
Exhaust manifold 
Exhaust up-pipe 
Custom Oil Return Line with adaptors 
Water lines 
Upper Intercooler Pipe 
Lower Intercooler Pipe Reducer 
Silicon Turbo Inlet Hose 
3" Mass Air Meter 
380cc injectors 
4-bar Fuel Pressure Regulator 
Hardware Kit (includes all nuts, bolts, gaskets etc) 
3" Silicone Coupler/Reducer for most Cold Air Intakes - or - Factory Airbox with 3" MAF Opening 
Factory PCV Hoses with brass adapters 
Custom Revo Technik Stage 3 Software


----------



## VDub GLI04 (Jan 7, 2005)

*Re: ?? about ko4-22 on 1.8t.. (Greg8522)*

So is that a no? that it wont bolt up to the factory parts, maybe just replacing the manifold to a tt manifold


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (nuther337)*

BUmp! TTT


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

I'll be at Waterfest, just booked the hotel. We all gotta meetup and check eachothers cars


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

Ok so I got the downpipe issue straightened out for now, but my car is experiencing horrible cold starts. Both yesterday and today, on the first and sometimes second start of the day the car stumbles a lot, misfires and almost won't stay running. The RPMs drop really low then bounce up high, then back low. It's really pretty violent to watch, the engine vibrates and bucks... I also noticed the car won't respond when I try to give it gas until it's fully warmed up. It's as if the car isn't getting enough fuel at startup or something, but once it gets warm it runs like a champ... it's pretty strange








Oh and I'm using 380cc Genesis injectors with a 4 bar FPR and a 3" VR MAF Sensor just like REVO and Pro-Imports reccommend...
Also on a brighter note, I'm taking the car out for some tuning tonight. We'll see what kind of logs I can get and what kind of adjustments I can make with lemmiwinks







Hopefully I'll have it running at top notch here soon and get it on the dyno possibly this weekend http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

Check your seconday air, kombi valve, and other vac lines to make sure you don't have any tears. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (nuther337)*

it might take a while for you car to adjust fueling... I would suggest runninga 3.5 bar or a 3 bar on your 380s.
I had 380s on mine white tops and car ran like ass...

went to the TT's with 4 bar and it ran fine...


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_Ok so I got the downpipe issue straightened out for now, but my car is experiencing horrible cold starts. Both yesterday and today, on the first and sometimes second start of the day the car stumbles a lot, misfires and almost won't stay running. The RPMs drop really low then bounce up high, then back low. It's really pretty violent to watch, the engine vibrates and bucks... I also noticed the car won't respond when I try to give it gas until it's fully warmed up. It's as if the car isn't getting enough fuel at startup or something, but once it gets warm it runs like a champ... it's pretty strange








Oh and I'm using 380cc Genesis injectors with a 4 bar FPR and a 3" VR MAF Sensor just like REVO and Pro-Imports reccommend...
Also on a brighter note, I'm taking the car out for some tuning tonight. We'll see what kind of logs I can get and what kind of adjustments I can make with lemmiwinks







Hopefully I'll have it running at top notch here soon and get it on the dyno possibly this weekend http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

Hey hey. Me too. A few times my car has flat out stalled. Taken 2-3 cranks to keep it going. Best part is when it stops w/the cold start you try to move it right after and it still falls flat on its face. I <3 Revo! 
Also, I cranked my WG a little more... boost does the exact same thing it did before. So... WG cranking means nothing for me apparently.


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I get poopy cold starts too. Not all the time, just sometimes. Seems like whenever the SAI pump kicks on at start up the car runs like CRAP. As soon as it kicks off and idles down the car runs perfect.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Do you guys look @ your AFR during these cold starts? If you are running lean and start forcing it, it's not good for your motors http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

3 bar for the 380s, ill be there to mess with peoples car with my slappy lappy top for a feee that is at WF


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_3 bar for the 380s, ill be there to mess with peoples car with my slappy lappy top for a feee that is at WF

For a fee? Can't help out some Dubber's in need


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

time = money, if people need me for this then i cant drink (which is the main thing i love to do at WF)


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_time = money, if people need me for this then i cant drink (which is the main thing i love to do at WF)

you won't be driving, you cheap azz







You can drink and push the buttons on your keyboard. In fact, I bet your doing it now


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

lol i am hahaha, god i have no life...


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: ?? about ko4-22 on 1.8t.. (VDub GLI04)*

k04-20, k04-22, k04-23 they are all the same turbos.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: ?? about ko4-22 on 1.8t.. (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_k04-20, k04-22, k04-23 they are all the same turbos.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Different wastegate positions are the only differences between them.


----------



## VDub GLI04 (Jan 7, 2005)

*Re: ?? about ko4-22 on 1.8t.. (sh{}e)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sh{}e* »_
Different wastegate positions are the only differences between them.

So is there a larger turbo that'll get more power than the stock ko3 that will just bolt up to existing parts? with maybe only changing the manifold and inlet?


----------



## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: ?? about ko4-22 on 1.8t.. (VDub GLI04)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VDub GLI04* »_
So is there a larger turbo that'll get more power than the stock ko3 that will just bolt up to existing parts? with maybe only changing the manifold and inlet?

Stay away from the k04-01, waste of money.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_time = money, if people need me for this then i cant drink (which is the main thing i love to do at WF)

How about i bring you a 12 pack of the beer of your choice. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif







My car runs fine anyway. I will prolly only need you to be at the dyno when I dyno. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## VDub GLI04 (Jan 7, 2005)

*Re: ?? about ko4-22 on 1.8t.. (sh{}e)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sh{}e* »_
Stay away from the k04-01, waste of money.

thanx for that bit of info, im still tryin to learn about the whole turbo deal


----------



## sh{}e (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: ?? about ko4-22 on 1.8t.. (VDub GLI04)*

k04-2x series have the decent potential and have massive tq and great spool. The topend is around 230-250whp depending on what mods you already have i.e fmic, 3" turboback, etc.
I think the sw offered by Revo and Giac haven't really put the k04-2x series to their potential.


----------



## vtracer20 (Oct 31, 2006)

k04-01 will bolt on with just replacing manifold and you'll need a k04 chip file from apr/giac/revo
you go with the larger ko4-02X then you need to do more


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (vtracer20)*

You dont need to replace your manifold with a k04-001. You do need to replace it for the k04-20. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## VDub GLI04 (Jan 7, 2005)

*Re: ?? about ko4-22 on 1.8t.. (sh{}e)*



sh{}e said:


> k04-2x series have the decent potential and have massive tq and great spool. The topend is around 230-250whp depending on what mods you already have i.e fmic, 3" turboback, etc.QUOTE]
> So beings i have fmic. 3" turboback, and a few others (in the sig), what else is essential to run this one? do you think i would have to have a new downpipe made, or would it use the one that bolts to the ko3?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: ?? about ko4-22 on 1.8t.. (VDub GLI04)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VDub GLI04* »_


sh{}e said:


> k04-2x series have the decent potential and have massive tq and great spool. The topend is around 230-250whp depending on what mods you already have i.e fmic, 3" turboback, etc.QUOTE]
> So beings i have fmic. 3" turboback, and a few others (in the sig), what else is essential to run this one? do you think i would have to have a new downpipe made, or would it use the one that bolts to the ko3?






sh{}e said:


> You can use your existing Down Pipe you just need to purchase the UPPIPE from Pro IMports to mate the DP to the TURBO.


----------



## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*Re: ?? about ko4-22 on 1.8t.. (01gtiaww)*

*Lets keep the Chit-Chat to a minimum*


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: ?? about ko4-22 on 1.8t.. (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_You can use your existing Down Pipe you just need to purchase the UPPIPE from Pro IMports to mate the DP to the TURBO.

or you can have an exhaust shop make you one for a fraction of the cost http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (vtracer20)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vtracer20* »_k04-01 will bolt on with just replacing manifold and you'll need a k04 chip file from apr/giac/revo
you go with the larger ko4-02X then you need to do more

hey my ko4-001 made:








And i know this sounds crazy but my boy made over 300whp on his ko4-01 with heavy mods on dynojet. Ill be posting that up soon


----------



## VDub GLI04 (Jan 7, 2005)

*Re: (double0vr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *double0vr6* »_
hey my ko4-001 made:








And i know this sounds crazy but my boy made over 300whp on his ko4-01 with heavy mods on dynojet. Ill be posting that up soon









bro that is sick, i'd be WAY happy with that for my daily driver! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

not this again


----------



## VDub GLI04 (Jan 7, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_not this again









please explain


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (VDub GLI04)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VDub GLI04* »_
please explain









Check out his dyno sheet closely and look at where he had it done. Then do a search for Florida dyno's and their consistently high readings...


----------



## nuther337 (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

C'mon..you can't put "Florida Dynos" in this lump and say that they are inaccurate. That is like saying that honda drivers are lame. It's a generalization that may be true in many instances, but can not be used as a universal truth. What this idea implies is that all shops with dynos in the state of Florida have carried out this conspiracy to inflate their dyno numbers in an attempt to keep their customers happy and maintain a sense of superiority to performance automobiles in the rest of the world... So quit it already.








edited for political correctness.


_Modified by nuther337 at 6:26 PM 6-27-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (double0vr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *double0vr6* »_
hey my ko4-001 made:








And i know this sounds crazy but my boy made over 300whp on his ko4-01 with heavy mods on dynojet. Ill be posting that up soon









The more important part of this is the OTHER mods that he used to make that. It wasn't just a k04-001 w/exhaust/intake/chip. That setup is worth only like 220-230whp max as a daily. If you add some meth or n20 or some other cooling additive (cough cough) then you can make more hp b/c of the extra timing (and some extra boost I'm sure, too). 

Edit: This is my add " 253whp / 306wtq & Meth+racefuel " That's all I'm trying to say. Compare apples to apples. K04-02x on those little additives will make 300whp + and probably 350wtq. It'll break a rod w/those things.
K04-02x's should be making 240-250whp daily. With some sort of additional cooler you should be able to make 270whp ish. Of course, it seems like anyone w/Revo is probably making more like 230whp and having issues (MOST, not all). 
Florida dynos aside, it's not going to make 250whp as a daily driver. I don't care what anyone says or does. Maybe if you have cams, intake manifold, pullies, and every other possible bolt on it'll make that. Otherwise, it's only making that w/a cooler of sorts.
Furthermore, ALL of this has been answered before. Read back a little bit. Not trying to be a dick, but I'm just saying. It's all been said before. At this point the aim of this thread IMO is to try to make more power from k04-02x setups or to get the SW BS worked out. At least that's why I bother w/it? 


_Modified by 04VDubGLI at 10:20 PM 6-27-2007_


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

well said...








That dyno sheet has been whored to death


----------



## spoolin turbo s (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

i wonder how the k04-020 would do with Uni BT software?


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (spoolin turbo s)*


_Quote, originally posted by *spoolin turbo s* »_i wonder how the k04-020 would do with Uni BT software?

someone said that uni had a file out yet i havent seen one thing about it from them, i bet its a k04001 file with larger injectors like neuspeed and giac are all doing now


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
someone said that uni had a file out yet i havent seen one thing about it from them, i bet its a k04001 file with larger injectors like neuspeed and *giac* are all doing now

Wrong







I don't know about Neuspeed, but the GIAC file is turbo specific. Go drink more


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
someone said that uni had a file out yet i havent seen one thing about it from them, i bet its a k04001 file with larger injectors like neuspeed and giac are all doing now

Uni has a file. I talked to them about it before I got my Revo. I actually would LOVE to have their file... if I could get my $700 back from Revo. The only complaint I had about their file was that I believe they told me they didn't have/do a stock file and stuff for it. I believe it was just a "chipped" file. Could be wrong though...
UNI FTW!


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
Wrong







I don't know about Neuspeed, but the GIAC file is turbo specific. Go drink more
















no i was just saying in general i bet thats what UNI's file was just because noone has it or has seen any posts from uni about it. but giac does have a big injector/maf k04001 file. same as nuespeed i was saying. i remember talking to neuspeed before and they said there k04001 fle would work great for the k0420 since the sw is written for tt injectors and maf. they made a comment that the files for the k04001 and k0420 made by giac were very simillar due to the fact there written for both injector and maf combo


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (nuther337)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nuther337* »_C'mon..you can't put "Florida Dynos" in this lump and say that they are inaccurate. That is like saying that honda drivers are lame. It's a generalization that may be true in many instances, but can not be used as a universal truth. What this idea implies is that all shops with dynos in the state of Florida have carried out this conspiracy to inflate their dyno numbers in an attempt to keep their customers happy and maintain a sense of superiority to performance automobiles in the rest of the world... So quit it already.








edited for political correctness.

_Modified by nuther337 at 6:26 PM 6-27-2007_


no its tru that there are a few happy dynos here in fl. but this shop is known for there good work and tuning and dyno, its a mustang dyno not a dyno i dont even believe in dynojets numbers. My frist dyno prob was a happy dyno it was a dynojet and my car with jet the turbo and bolts ones made 241whp yea rite then i went to cfi mustang dyno and made 239whp with meth and my car was alot faster than when i 1st dynoed 241whp on dyno jet.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

mustangs are known for not reading correctly


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

cool, although revo doesnt have fueling issues with there sw for the k0420, more or less n75 duty cycles


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_cool, although revo doesnt have fueling issues with there sw for the k0420, more or less n75 duty cycles

So you're saying they do have issues w/the n75 setup on the k04-020 sw? Cause as of late, as my boost starts to do more and more what it's supposed to my car's partial throttle becomes more and more MBC ish. Like it really acts like garbage lately. I'll compressor surge sometimes when I pull out off of a hill b/c it tries to like spike or something when I'm not really trying to request boost. It's really making me angry.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

u and 2306 are having some real issues cause you guys complaing alot lol
theres gotta be somthing you guys are overlooking, i know you guys think you looked over everything but theres gotta be some kinda hw issue, did you guys do a smoke test yet? vacume test?
what sensors do you guys have bypassed or unpluged? get some pics or a good description of your setup, i dont think you guys had told anyone have you?


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

I'd like to add an update about my setup:
Today I took the car out to a local get together. It's still running great, boosting to 23-25 psi and holding a nice 18 psi to redline. My cold start issues seem to have disapated for now as well, but I'm keeping an eye on it just in case. Anyway, after the meet tonight I got the chance to run the GLI against a buddy of mine who has a 2002 Jetta 1.8T with a K04-001 and water/meth. We did two runs (both on a closed course







) and both times I came out in front by 3-4 car lengths http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
However, during the runs I noticed a few new issues. First, the downpipe is still rattling against the firewall... not really a new issue or that big of a deal, but eventually I'm going to have to do something about it because it will end up driving me crazy... Second, I noticed occasionally at WOT and full boost, the boost gauge would jump from 20+ down to 18 or so then back up to 22 or 23. It was weird, I guess you could call it a boost surge. It didn't do it everytime, but it did it enough for me to notice. I'm currently running a boostvalve overboost kit inline with the stock N75 for boost control and I'm wondering if I should switch back to the N75 H valve. It helped me with surging on my K03s, I wonder if it will help on the K04??? I was also curous if maybe I should try a stiffer spring in my Forge 007 DV? I'm currently using the Yellow spring (rated from 15-23 psi), do you think I should add a spacer and see if that helps me hold boost longer and more consistent? Let me know what you think. Either way, I'm pleased the car is performing well, I'd just like to get the boost back to a steady spike, no more of this jumping around...


_Modified by 20vTurboGLI at 3:52 AM 6-29-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

yeap, try it withought the mbc just for giggles, also remove the 4 bar fpr and install the 3 bar back in
have a sps3? if so what are your settings?
i ran the stock 710N for a dv, my 007 cause me to surge actually, it had a shimmed yellow spring as well(new)
for me the H threw me into limp right away upon start up, the F, J, and K didnt although the F performed the best so its worth a shot for you. GL


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_yeap, try it withought the mbc just for giggles, also remove the 4 bar fpr and install the 3 bar back in
have a sps3? if so what are your settings?
i ran the stock 710N for a dv, my 007 cause me to surge actually, it had a shimmed yellow spring as well(new)
for me the H threw me into limp right away upon start up, the F, J, and K didnt although the F performed the best so its worth a shot for you. GL

I might try it without the MBC however I'm afraid of what the boost spike might be. I'm seeing 25 PSI already with the MBC a good 5 or 6 threads from max boost....
I don't think the 3 bar will make a difference. Plus, when I talked to REVO they told me the K04-02x software was designed for 380cc injectors @ 4 bar. Oh and my cold starts were even worse with the 3 bar...
I do have an SPS 3 and my current settings are Boost: 9 / Timing: 4
I still have my stock 710 N DV and if I can't kick this surging I'll give it a try http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Also, I've done the diode mod to the car so it won't ever go into limp. I swapped the N75 H valve in tonight, so we'll see how it does tomorrow.


_Modified by 20vTurboGLI at 5:03 AM 6-29-2007_


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

I belive your boostvavle in OB mode might be cuasing the oscilating (bouncing). I know sometimes my boost did that with the OB setup.

Update:
ABD intake manifold is on... and it's amazing how much of a bitch it is to do when you break your dipstick and have to run out and get one before the parts deparments closes.
A tip:
I have a feeling my boost issue might be solved. Don't know yet but I have a feeling. My injectors weren't sitting in the intake manifold right... they never did so i just strapped them down a while back they seemed snug... But could of been the issue. 
Anyway I'll test the thing tomorrow. I did have a few problems when 1st starting up... remember to plug your TB back in... ya can't get anywhere with the TB fully closed..


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (bmxp)*

I posted about making sure the injectors were seated correctly about 20 pages back but everyone overlooked that.







20vturboGLI, you should try your boostvalve inline with your n75 to control your high spike. I have tried my setup like a million ways and it performs the best inline with the n-75 valve not in overboost mode. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
like this:










_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:19 AM 6-29-2007_


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_u and 2306 are having some real issues cause you guys complaing alot lol
what sensors do you guys have bypassed or unpluged? get some pics or a good description of your setup, i dont think you guys had told anyone have you?

Actually, I just had the misfires problem and that turned out to be the Brisk multi-spark plugs. Went back to NGK's and misfires went away. Other than that, my only complaint is that boost flip/flops back and forth when you are at or near 0psi. It's fine at full boost and it's fine as long as it's out of boost, but if you're 0-5psi into boost, drivability sucks. Going to try the overboost solution, or at least parts of it (regulator valve to allow small amounts of boost to hit the wastegate directly - that sounds like it might be worth trying (just the regulator, not the other two valves)).
I also do still get this clacking at full boost, I think it's my wastegate or the actuator, can't tell. I have a feeling it's going to blow the flapper one of these days.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

You should buy a FORGE ADJUSTABLE WASTEGATE ACTUATOR for the k04-20 series turbos. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 










_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:18 AM 6-29-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_You should buy a FORGE ADJUSTABLE WASTEGATE ACTUATOR for the k04-20 series turbos. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 









_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:18 AM 6-29-2007_

I'd buy one of those if they weren't $200. 
Also, the only thing I know about my setup is that it's finally not leaking boost. I pressure tested it and everything was sealed up. I guess I could do it again, but the first time I did I found out about that freakin MAP sensor, and this time around nothing seemed to leak. I don't have an OB setup. I think I may be the only person who hasn't tried running one. I don't know why I'd need one though. I'm going to get logs today I hope... and maybe they'll shed some light. 
Last time I ask this... cause it's been beat to death. What MAF sensor is everyone running? VR, TT, 1.8T? Concensus? I'm positive PI told me VR w/VR housing?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

YEs, MY PI KIT came with a *VR6 HOUSING and sensor*. I am currently running a 2.0 sensor in my vr6 housing cause mine pooped out and the 2.0 sensor is the same one as the vr6 sensor and it only cost me 40 bucks brand new from the stealership. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 10:02 AM 6-29-2007_


----------



## lax1492 (Jan 19, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

sorry if this has been talked about as if it has i must have overlooked it in my search but what are people getting as egt readings for the k04-20's ?


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i tired the forge wastegate, it made boost come on later and laggier, i didnt like it at all


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_
I might try it without the MBC however I'm afraid of what the boost spike might be. I'm seeing 25 PSI already with the MBC a good 5 or 6 threads from max boost....
*try it*
I don't think the 3 bar will make a difference. Plus, when I talked to REVO they told me the K04-02x software was designed for 380cc injectors @ 4 bar. Oh and my cold starts were even worse with the 3 bar...
* u must have not talked to them then cause their sw was designed for tt injectors at 3 bar but 4 bar works best for some reason, however when u run 380s with the kit u must run a 3/3.5 bar to help with cold starts and not running so rich, just trust me i already went through this ordeal plus i use to work for PI*
I do have an SPS 3 and my current settings are Boost: 9 / Timing: 4
*with no mbc set boost to 6 or 7 on the new sps3*
I still have my stock 710 N DV and if I can't kick this surging I'll give it a try http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Also, I've done the diode mod to the car so it won't ever go into limp. I swapped the N75 H valve in tonight, so we'll see how it does tomorrow.
* the issue with the H isnt a diode trickery for help, its not a bost issue, as it sent my car into limp upon startup as soon as the key went on before the boost came on. also you should remove the diode as with a n75 controling boost youll spike up real high withthe diode, not to mention a diode isnt needed with bigger turbo SW, the BT sw has all boost limitations taken off so youll never go into limp from overboosting, that diode is hurting you more than anything! *

_Modified by 20vTurboGLI at 5:03 AM 6-29-2007_



_Modified by 200320thAE2632 at 2:29 PM 6-29-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

What should the boost settings be on the old SPS3? Is HB4 high enough? Or should I be higher than that?


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

hb 3 or 4 is good, unless your using a mbc


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_hb 3 or 4 is good, unless your using a mbc

With it at that I'm currently doing like 21psi from 3000-5200 and then tapering to 15psi @ redline. 
Of course, as previously discussed, I also am having the partial throttle issues. However, I do know for a fact that I don't have a boost leak anymore







I've pressure tested my car x 2 now. Where to go from here....?


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

how did you pressure test it? did you do a smoke test too?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

I didn't do the smoke test thing. But... I went around everywhere and felt for air and nothing came out. First time I found some @ my MAP sensor (wrong size sensor if you recall). Oddly enough my 2 stg went away before I fixed the boost leak. I still don't know what got rid of it though.


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Ok so I tried the N75 H valve today and the car still did the boost oscillation at WOT...

_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_20vturboGLI, you should try your boostvalve inline with your n75 to control your high spike. I have tried my setup like a million ways and it performs the best inline with the n-75 valve not in overboost mode. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


Thanks for the tip man, I'll have to give that a try next http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
200320thAE2632,
I'll try it without the MBC and set Boost to 6 or 7 if I can't get it to boost properly inline with the N75. I'll also remove the diode if it truly isn't needed anymore. As for the FPR, I'm going to leave the 4 bar in there for now and do some a/f logs at startup and WOT. If it's running rich I'll switch back to the 3 bar, but if not I'm gonna leave it alone since the cold start issues seem to be gone. I'll be back with another update later tonight. I might even get some logging done tonight, we'll see.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_I didn't do the smoke test thing. But... I went around everywhere and felt for air and nothing came out. First time I found some @ my MAP sensor (wrong size sensor if you recall). Oddly enough my 2 stg went away before I fixed the boost leak. I still don't know what got rid of it though.

thats not a real test, until u do a smoke or vac/boost leak test u wont know wfor sure!


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_Ok so I tried the N75 H valve today and the car still did the boost oscillation at WOT...
Thanks for the tip man, I'll have to give that a try next http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
200320thAE2632,
I'll try it without the MBC and set Boost to 6 or 7 if I can't get it to boost properly inline with the N75. I'll also remove the diode if it truly isn't needed anymore. As for the FPR, I'm going to leave the 4 bar in there for now and do some a/f logs at startup and WOT. If it's running rich I'll switch back to the 3 bar, but if not I'm gonna leave it alone since the cold start issues seem to be gone. I'll be back with another update later tonight. I might even get some logging done tonight, we'll see.









well u see, if u leave the mapped clamped with a diode and take the mbc out then the ecu will see the car is only getting whatever the map is clamped at so it will tell the n75 to stay open, by doing this your car will run upwars of 30+psi or so, when u do a diode you only do it in conjunction with a mbc http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
but its your car so you can do and try what you want


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
well u see, if u leave the mapped clamped with a diode and take the mbc out then the ecu will see the car is only getting whatever the map is clamped at so it will tell the n75 to stay open, by doing this your car will run upwars of 30+psi or so, when u do a diode you only do it in conjunction with a mbc http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
but its your car so you can do and try what you want










I hear ya man, that's why I did the diode mod on the stock turbo, to keep from going into limp mode above 20 psi... anyway, I'm gonna remove the diode and try the MBC inline with stock N75 and if that doesn't work I'll turn the boost down with my SPS 3 and try it without the MBC. Hopefully I can get the boost oscillation taken care of then hit the dyno http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

I'm telling you, its the OB set up... when I had it, it did that. 
I just run my Turbonetics MBC inline (Boost source > MBC > N75) WG)
It helps, it sloved my 2 stage and as an update still 2 staging with my n75 only. I am on hte c valve so I dunno I might wanna plug the F valve back in.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_I'm telling you, its the OB set up... when I had it, it did that. 
I just run my Turbonetics MBC inline (Boost source > MBC > N75) WG)
It helps, it sloved my 2 stage and as an update still 2 staging with my n75 only. I am on hte c valve so I dunno I might wanna plug the F valve back in.

and what cool guy told you about the turbonetics mbc? how awsome are the phnuematic mbcs?


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Wow so I just fixed all my part throttle problems, made my idle smooth as butter and got rid of the backfires when letting off the throttle and coming to a stop. Basically, hooking your DV up to the intake mani directly is not the same as having the N249 control it.
I never had problems with my K03 and K04-001 but with the PI/TT225 K04-02x setup - at least with Revo software - the N249 apparently must be in place. I'm guessing that the ECM shuts the DV when it no longer sees boost at the MAP. I don't know of any other turbo car that has the DV operated by anything but vacuum, but apparently our cars are different.
I also tried not having the N249 without the vacuum resevour (on top of the valve cover), and I would say that it's still better than not having the N249, but the vacuum resevour definitely does get used (to open the DV or combi-valve when there is no vacuum in the intake mani).
Here's how it has to be (at least this is the only way it worked for me, any other setup gave me a fluttering DV)...
1. The side port of the N249 has to be hooked to a T that connects to the vacuum resevour (and the N112 if you have SAI) and to a check valve pointing towards the intake mani, which is connected to the mani.
2. The metal port has to be connected to a check valve that points away from the intake mani, which is connected to the mani.
3. The opposite side to the metal port has to be connected to the DV.
So I took out my whole vac system and started over (Nth time doing that!) with new hoses and new one-time-use clamps. Made everything as short as possible and made sure it couldn't have kinks or leaks. Parts used:
o. 3ft of 4mm hose
o. 1ft of 7mm hose
o. 2 4mm metal T's
o. 2 4mm to 7mm fittings
o. 2 OEM 90º check valves
o. Lots of one time use clamps
I didn't use any of the metal pipes that normally run along the side of the block as I had removed them during the turbo install (no need IMO, just more places for leaks, etc.)... Was well worth it, this is the best my car has ever run.
Looks like most of the other stuff I was troubleshooting before even mattered... like the wastegate actuator rod - my guess is that it doesn't make much difference where that is so long as you don't move it after the N75 is adapted.










_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 12:19 PM 6-30-2007_


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_Wow so I just fixed all my part throttle problems, made my idle smooth as butter and got rid of the backfires when letting off the throttle and coming to a stop. Basically, hooking your DV up to the intake mani directly is not the same as having the N249 control it.
I never had problems with my K03 and K04-001 but with the PI/TT225 K04-02x setup - at least with Revo software - the N249 apparently must be in place. I'm guessing that the ECM shuts the DV when it no longer sees boost at the MAP. I don't know of any other turbo car that has the DV operated by anything but vacuum, but apparently our cars are different.
I also tried not having the N249 without the vacuum resevour (on top of the valve cover), and I would say that it's still better than not having the N249, but the vacuum resevour definitely does get used (to open the DV or combi-valve when there is no vacuum in the intake mani).
Here's how it has to be (at least this is the only way it worked for me, any other setup gave me a fluttering DV)...
1. The side port of the N249 has to be hooked to a T that connects to the vacuum resevour (and the N112 if you have SAI) and to a check valve pointing towards the intake mani, which is connected to the mani.
2. The metal port has to be connected to a check valve that points away from the intake mani, which is connected to the mani.
3. The opposite side to the metal port has to be connected to the DV.
So I took out my whole vac system and started over (Nth time doing that!) with new hoses and new one-time-use clamps. Made everything as short as possible and made sure it couldn't have kinks or leaks. Parts used:
o. 3ft of 4mm hose
o. 1ft of 7mm hose
o. 2 4mm metal T's
o. 2 4mm to 7mm fittings
o. 2 OEM 90º check valves
o. Lots of one time use clamps
I didn't use any of the metal pipes that normally run along the side of the block as I had removed them during the turbo install (no need IMO, just more places for leaks, etc.)... Was well worth it, this is the best my car has ever run.
Looks like most of the other stuff I was troubleshooting before even mattered... like the wastegate actuator rod - my guess is that it doesn't make much difference where that is so long as you don't move it after the N75 is adapted.









_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 12:19 PM 6-30-2007_

This caused your DV valve not to flutter? I haven't been running my N249 since I was chipped. (It failed) I would consider getting another one and hooking everything back up if, it would cure the "get the car moving" flutter. I thought it was just the nature of the beast. I was going to try the new apr dv to see if it would quiet it down.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (loudgli)*

No, the flutter was when I had the hoses in any other configuration with the N249. I.e., I had no decent diagram that showed which port was which. Fluttering is not something I have ever had a problem with, only while I was figuring out the best layout for the vac system.
I hear the APR DV is great, but don't count on it fixing any problems if your current DV isn't busted. The Bosch 710N is best otherwise, if you have a forge piston type valve, that might flutter, I had that problem with their "Optimus" DV.
If you are having drivability problems, and you've tried everything else, you should try going back to a stock vacuum setup.









_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 1:20 PM 6-30-2007_


_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 1:21 PM 6-30-2007_


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

OK, I'm back with another update...
The first thing I tried was the MBC inline with the N75. The boost still oscillated at WOT... Next I tried it without the MBC and the boost turned down to 7 on my SPS3. The car maxed out my 25 psi boost gauge (but did not oscillate) so I turned the boost down to setting 5. The car boosted to a nice 21-22 psi at setting 5, but it started bouncing around just like before...
Next I'm going to try a few different spring/spacer combinations in my Forge 007 and I'm going to do as 20AE-2306 did and try to get my vacuum system as close to stock as possible (for me this means putting the stupid vacuum reservoir back in) I'll be back with another update later today http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


_Modified by 20vTurboGLI at 7:05 PM 6-30-2007_


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_No, the flutter was when I had the hoses in any other configuration with the N249. I.e., I had no decent diagram that showed which port was which. Fluttering is not something I have ever had a problem with, only while I was figuring out the best layout for the vac system.
I hear the APR DV is great, but don't count on it fixing any problems if your current DV isn't busted. The Bosch 710N is best otherwise, if you have a forge piston type valve, that might flutter, I had that problem with their "Optimus" DV.
If you are having drivability problems, and you've tried everything else, you should try going back to a stock vacuum setup.









_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 1:20 PM 6-30-2007_

_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 1:21 PM 6-30-2007_

Thanks for the info. The flutter doesn't really bother me other than its noisy in and out of parking lots and such (reversing etc.) Im thinking the diaphragm style might be quieter with my aluminum intake.


----------



## lax1492 (Jan 19, 2004)

*Re: (lax1492)*


_Quote, originally posted by *lax1492* »_ what are people getting as egt readings for the k04-20's ? 

Anyone ? Just curious what other people are getting


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (loudgli)*

Flutter normally isn't a good thing, I think it's putting added stresses on the turbo. I believe the sound you are hearing is the air bouncing off the blades as a result of the DV not opening fast enough. That's why it starts out higher pitched and faster and ends up fading away because the blades start slowing down. I could be wrong... I would fix it... 
Think about it, the ECM definitely knows the moment you let off the gas, before anything else does, and if the N249 is there and enough vacuum is in the resevour, it can open the DV long before there would be enough vacuum in the intake mani to do it. There is only enough vacuum in the intake mani after the TB has closed for a split second and the engine has kept pulling air (and pushing exhaust which means the turbo is still boosting), meanwhile, all that boost you had at redline is being forced back against the blades because it has no other way out.
I think the N249/resevour is ingenious, best way for the car to protect the turbo from stalling. I don't know what I was thinking, removing it like that just because a lot of other people do. No need to save space in your engine bay, you can make that vac system really tiny anyway.









_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 6:23 PM 6-30-2007_


_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 6:25 PM 6-30-2007_


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

one thing you gotta keep in mind is that fluttering at low boost is usually fine. at WOT and it flutters when you let it off that's your problem.


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (bmxp)*

Whenever i hear my DV, it makes a clean, short, muffled, whoosh. I have a stock TT airbox without the snorkel, a K&N filter and a Bosch 110/710N. A lot of times I can't hear it or it's really faint, only at full boost when I let off the throttle.


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

I wanna say after removing my Vac Res. My fluttering stoped... I know in some archived post most DV's/ Recirc type valves will flutter a wee bit. I believe soem guy from forge even said it.
Anyway ABD mani is cool. Butt dyno says definatly a little more high end.


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

usually when you pic up a vac source to the dv from any other line youll get a flutter sound MOST of the time (70%) because its just the way 1.8ts are due to ll there ghey vac canasters, My stock DV flutterd alot after i put the vac line to my fpr from DV, def felt crisper in throttle response and boost response and shifting.....and yes i am drunk! on a side note i bet my supermoto bike will beat any of your k04-20 kits


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## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_one thing you gotta keep in mind is that fluttering at low boost is usually fine. at WOT and it flutters when you let it off that's your problem.

yeah it only does it when I get a small amount of boost as in not modulating the throttle perfect when taking off or starting in reverse or something. It doesn't do it any other time. 
I am in the process of relocating my dv this morning. I had been using the bottom opening in the TIP with a hose that ran up to the bottom of the dv valve. I was using the top opening in the TIP for the PCV. (because it was easier to pipe up initially) Now I have the DV directly in the TIP hoping this might quiet it down along with shortening the vacuum line. 
I am confused as to whether doing away with the vacuum reservoir will help or make things worse. Guess I could plug it off and see what happens


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## Kiddo (Jan 19, 2005)

*Re: (loudgli)*

I'm in the process of reading through this thread and I have a few questions that may or may not have been answered, not k04-020 specific but relative.
Is it correct that it is probably a good idea to rebuild your bottom end for 300+hp applications?
Is this only nessecary if you are using water/meth or N2O or should it also be considered if you make this much with the 02x turbo plus mods such as intake manifold, an AEB head, water/meth?
Last question, is the AWD bottom end strong enough to handle the HP that these mods would make (assuming that they reach the 300+ range)?
Not debating on what mods will make what, really more interested in what needs to be done to handle 300+ HP.
neko


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (Kiddo)*

The AWD bottom is same as the BEA/AMU (225 TT) engine with bigger rods. Also, if you're looking to make 300+HP (WHP?) i'd look else where. You will be doing more work than what it's worth. It would be better to go with a standard kit (28rs, 2871r, T3s60 ETC). THey make proven power.
Not that this kit can't, it just take a lot of work. I'm sure with the right amount of time and money and with W/M injection you can make pretty high numbers, but the question is: Is it worth your time and money? 
I did this kit b/c at the time no many or if anybody had this kit really and I was curious to see what it was like. It's a fun little thing but just leaves you wanting more. Just a heads up. Good daily turbo for those not looking for huge power. Looking for 250+ hp easy... look else where.


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

fyi, when yyou relocate the DV you will gets lots of flutter, and this is normal.


----------



## Kiddo (Jan 19, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_fyi, when yyou relocate the DV you will gets lots of flutter, and this is normal.

I tried that, car didn't like it one bit...
Also the way that I'm looking at it is that if I'm going to be doing most of this myself I'd better start small and cheap (well less expensive) in most cases every mod that you by to up HP on a turbo kit can also be used on a bigger turbo kit. Such as (in my case) water/meth, intake, aeb head, FMIC or water to air cooler, pulleys, lighter wheels, etc.
most of the people who have posted numbers did not have head work or an intake manifold on their mod list, I already have these things so I'm curious now at what type of numbers they will make.


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i had a intake mani


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (Kiddo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Kiddo* »_
I tried that, car didn't like it one bit...
Also the way that I'm looking at it is that if I'm going to be doing most of this myself I'd better start small and cheap (well less expensive) in most cases every mod that you by to up HP on a turbo kit can also be used on a bigger turbo kit. Such as (in my case) water/meth, intake, aeb head, FMIC or water to air cooler, pulleys, lighter wheels, etc.
most of the people who have posted numbers did not have head work or an intake manifold on their mod list, I already have these things so I'm curious now at what type of numbers they will make.

In a perfect world I think the k04-020 setup would be worth like 260whp w/an AEB head, pulleys, and all bolt ons. W/M would be able to kick it up into the 280whp range pretty easily w/just some mild W/M injections (my guess at least).
I think there are some more creative ways to make more power from this turbo... and I may start exploring them once I have mine running properly in the first place. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Feel free to PM me if you'd like to hear some of my ideas, but I don't want to start another topic here.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

might as well spill it since this thread is about the k04-20, theres not much more you can do with this setup


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## Kiddo (Jan 19, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_i had a intake mani


which one? and I think I remember reading your numbers but could you post them again?


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

noone believes me tho cause i could not post sheets, however my numbers were not even far fetched, so for the haters we will just say i never dynod


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
In a perfect world I think the k04-020 setup would be worth like 260whp w/an AEB head, pulleys, and all bolt ons. W/M would be able to kick it up into the 280whp range pretty easily w/just some mild W/M injections (my guess at least).
I think there are some more creative ways to make more power from this turbo... and I may start exploring them once I have mine running properly in the first place. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Feel free to PM me if you'd like to hear some of my ideas, but I don't want to start another topic here.

I agree with all the above and have the exact same plans. I'm running great right now in terms of drivability but like 200320thAE2632 said, it's not as fast off the line with the DV plugged into the N249. I think that the reason why drivability is so much better is because it hits boost with the DV still open and then it closes it after. Something like that, it doesn't just immediately close the dv, shut the wastegate and hit full boost immediately like it would with the direct to intake mani method and/or having an MBC does.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

theres not muh more you can do besides w/m, even then i choose to stay away from putting any water or even misting water in my motors, have u ever seen pics of motors over time with w/m use, they all havea thick film that doesnt come off of a rust looking type of crap on the internals


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Most people on this thread chose this turbo because they do not want 300+whp. They wanted something fun and reliable for a daily driver. I am a true believer that this turbo is capable of way more than we have seen. Think about it, there are people on the vortex that have achieved pretty good numbers on k03sports and k04-001's. If k04-001 and k03s users can do it why cant k04-20 users do it. I have yet to see someone with a k04-20 push it to its max potential. I would love to see someone with this turbo, w/m, upgraded rods and pistons, head work and every single bolt on imaginable get on a dyno with race gas. I'm sure the #'s would be impressive considering it is a k04 series turbo. If I had the time and money I would def. do it. I like this lil turbo. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_theres not muh more you can do besides w/m, even then i choose to stay away from putting any water or even misting water in my motors, have u ever seen pics of motors over time with w/m use, they all havea thick film that doesnt come off of a rust looking type of crap on the internals

Can you sight where you saw this. Id be interesting in seeing it.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_Can you sight where you saw this. Id be interesting in seeing it. 

Me 2. He says he saw 3 1.8T's, first hand, all of which died from water meth. He said one only had 3k miles total on the clock. He said one of them was running a Snow kit. No word on whether it was stage 2 MAP based or whether the water was distilled and that the nozzles weren't clogged or something.


----------



## Kiddo (Jan 19, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_Most people on this thread chose this turbo because they do not want 300+whp. They wanted something fun and reliable for a daily driver. I am a true believer that this turbo is capable of way more than we have seen. Think about it, there are people on the vortex that have achieved pretty good numbers on k03sports and k04-001's. If k04-001 and k03s users can do it why cant k04-20 users do it. I have yet to see someone with a k04-20 push it to its max potential. I would love to see someone with this turbo, w/m, upgraded rods and pistons, head work and every single bolt on imaginable get on a dyno with race gas. I'm sure the #'s would be impressive considering it is a k04 series turbo. If I had the time and money I would def. do it. I like this lil turbo. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

My thoughts exactly. If you can make 250ish (w/ water/meth) with a k03sport minus most of the bolt ons and head work, and a k04-020 has been proven to make at least 240-260 without head work and aftermarket intake manifold. I've seen lots of diferent "BT" setups make up to 40 extra WHP just from an AEB head, so it would be safe to say the AEB would be good for at least 20 on this turbo. I don't see why this turbo couldn't be tweaked for at least 280 without water meth. Not to mention an aftermarket exhaust manifold or at least one ported and maybe ceramic coated. Oh and lets not forget cams. Seems that everyone is depending on the turbo to make all the power when this game is undoubtedly a team sport.
Also can anyone explain to me why people aren't boosting these turbos past 18-19 psi? Are they as fragile as the k04-001?
Can they not hold boost pass 20?


_Modified by Kiddo at 2:29 PM 7-2-2007_


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (Kiddo)*

People are boosting past there, it's safe to boost to like 24psi all day long. I don't have it set that high because it seems more efficient around 20-22.


----------



## TurboGTi222 (Sep 5, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_theres not muh more you can do besides w/m, even then i choose to stay away from putting any water or even misting water in my motors, have u ever seen pics of motors over time with w/m use, they all havea thick film that doesnt come off of a rust looking type of crap on the internals
That's funny......every engine I've ever seen that used water/meth injection for any period of time looked clean and shiny as the day it came off the assembly line when disassembled.







I've been running strong with meth injection (50% water 50% meth) for over 50k miles without a single issue.


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (TurboGTi222)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TurboGTi222* »_That's funny......every engine I've ever seen that used water/meth injection for any period of time looked clean and shiny as the day it came off the assembly line when disassembled.







I've been running strong with meth injection (50% water 50% meth) for over 50k miles without a single issue. 

Thanks for the insight!


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (Kiddo)*

There is an aftermarket exhaust manifold made by DNPerformance for the k04-020. I'd very much so like to get my hands on one... just not for $500. People will say it's worth nothing, but I just have my own ways of thinking of things I guess. 
Cams and exhaust mani and intake mani and pulleys and the head and literally everything... I don't see why 270-280 could be achieved. It'd be hella fun to drive too I bet. BT power on a MT. Not to mention the possibility of that thing we discussed. I bet you would see 300whp that way. Toss on W/M and I bet probably 340whp and 400 wtq (not really exaggerating much on the tq either I bet). You'd need rods if you did all of that stuff.
Also, the turbos are not very "fragile" from what I know, but they're already losing efficiency at like 1 bar. So it sort of gets the point where if you don't have sensational cooling, adding a bunch of extra boost doesn't get too much I'm guessing. Mine only is holding 15psi @ redline currently. It feels a little flat up top, but getting to that point it feels pretty strong. I'm going to work on fixing that up though... Anyhow, seriously, hit me up on AIM on via PM.


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

JUST REMEMBER th tuning available for these kits are crappy, nd there done, no more revisions are gonna be released, so dont expect power coming from new sw
as for the w/m comment, to eah his own, ive seen it do damage to 3 1.8ts and tore down each motor, so i am not a beliver


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## Kiddo (Jan 19, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

does anyone know the lb/min air flow rate of these turbos? seems with enough research on the specs, software from a turbo with similar airflow and spool characteristics could be adapted. I've seen other software options discussed, and I'm probably waaaay over simplifying this, but has anyone done this research? What software seems to work the best?
From what I gather revo stage 2 with lots of tweaking.


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

they make specific sw for this turbo but noone spent the time on it so all the sw just flat out sucks.

the best thing to do is run a mbc, get the revo 28r file with 440s at 3 bar and set the mbc to 22-24 psi like the very first person to do this on a transverse golf 1.8t, he made 248 wheel on this and had no isssues at all


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Like what was stated to me once from a buddy of mine
You don't make _real_ power by going from one small turbo to a slight bigger but still small turbo.
As much as I like this thing... Is it really worth it to spend money on cams, and an exhaust manifold to yed only 300whp... if that... That would be on top of the cost of the turbo + SW... which comes into hte BT field.
There is a reason why thsi kit will make more consistant power over the 001 b/c it is bigger... BUT it is still small. It should make an easy 230-240whp easy....vs the 001 b/c you it can push out that much more air. The thing is running it at 24psi or what ever is pushing out of its range... Sure you can do it but how long will it actually last? Or i can run 15ish psi on a 2871r and make about the same amount of WHP and know for a fact that it will make that power good and not be iffy.
I love this turbo for a daily driver but it should never be seen more than your Auto cross turbo/ or a daily driver turbo who can handle a real turbo.







But really... This turbo should not be seen as a monster. It will hold its own and is impressive but it's just the gap between the k03s and a real BT setup...
Just my .02 cents


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## Kiddo (Jan 19, 2005)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_Like what was stated to me once from a buddy of mine
You don't make _real_ power by going from one small turbo to a slight bigger but still small turbo.
As much as I like this thing... Is it really worth it to spend money on cams, and an exhaust manifold to yed only 300whp... if that... That would be on top of the cost of the turbo + SW... which comes into hte BT field.
There is a reason why thsi kit will make more consistant power over the 001 b/c it is bigger... BUT it is still small. It should make an easy 230-240whp easy....vs the 001 b/c you it can push out that much more air. The thing is running it at 24psi or what ever is pushing out of its range... Sure you can do it but how long will it actually last? Or i can run 15ish psi on a 2871r and make about the same amount of WHP and know for a fact that it will make that power good and not be iffy.
I love this turbo for a daily driver but it should never be seen more than your Auto cross turbo/ or a daily driver turbo who can handle a real turbo.







But really... This turbo should not be seen as a monster. It will hold its own and is impressive but it's just the gap between the k03s and a real BT setup...
Just my .02 cents

Thanks for this, my only point is that every other mod that you do specifically to your engine, except for the exhaust manifold, can also be used with any other turbo setup. I guess I'm a mod junky. I wouldn't push this turbo out of it's range, but I'd still like to see what it's capable of with the previously stated mods, except the exhaust manifold unless I find one for the low. In fact I may venture down that road if a buddy of mone doesn't sell me a T3 super60 kit.


_Modified by Kiddo at 4:48 AM 7-3-2007_


----------



## Kiddo (Jan 19, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_they make specific sw for this turbo but noone spent the time on it so all the sw just flat out sucks.

the best thing to do is run a mbc, get the revo 28r file with 440s at 3 bar and set the mbc to 22-24 psi like the very first person to do this on a transverse golf 1.8t, he made 248 wheel on this and had no isssues at all

Okay so this is the formula. When you say "no issues" does that include fueling at stoich, and did he have to do any software tweaks?


----------



## lax1492 (Jan 19, 2004)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_they make specific sw for this turbo but noone spent the time on it so all the sw just flat out sucks.


I would like to know more about these software issues for the k04-20. I had Revo and my shop installed their software for an auto transmission and it had some bugs but it all worked out in the end. Then swapped over to a 5 speed and I have not seen any issues to date. When I read things like sw that sucks all that comes to mind is something EIP put out


----------



## lax1492 (Jan 19, 2004)

*Re: (lax1492)*


_Quote, originally posted by *lax1492* »_t what are people getting as egt readings for the k04-20's ? 

ill start, egt reading tops out for me at 1.25k degrees in 5th gear on the highway otherwise it runs around 1k with city driving with a quick cool down form sitting in traffic goes down to about 800-900 degrees


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (lax1492)*


_Quote, originally posted by *lax1492* »_ill start, egt reading tops out for me at 1.25k degrees in 5th gear on the highway otherwise it runs around 1k with city driving with a quick cool down form sitting in traffic goes down to about 800-900 degrees

I have the same readings. My pyro sensor is mounted half-way between the turbo and the cat. If I push it really hard, I get up to 1250º, but it's difficult to get it any higher than that. 800º is pretty much average once it's warmed up, 900-1000º is normal after gunning it on a freeway on-ramp from a stop up to 80mph.
Back on the K03 sport w/Revo stage 2, I was seeing higher numbers - in fact I actually saw the gauge max out at like 1800 once and the turbo still worked. That turbo died eventually from debris (that's what I was told anyway, though I think a part of a blade came off and destroyed the others or something).










_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 12:21 AM 7-4-2007_


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

john weres urs mounted


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Anyone else got a pyrometer?


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## lax1492 (Jan 19, 2004)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_john weres urs mounted

in the dp


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (lax1492)*


_Quote, originally posted by *lax1492* »_
in the dp

Where at in the dp?


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## lax1492 (Jan 19, 2004)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
Where at in the dp?

ill try and take a pic this weekend


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

dp is not a good location


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## lax1492 (Jan 19, 2004)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_dp is not a good location

you basically have two choices.... turbo manifold or down pipe. I didn't want to put it in my manifold so I went dp. So the readings are going to be a bit off but I dont think anything more then 100 degrees


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i would say 200-300 off


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

k04-023 FTW... put it in the hot side?


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

you could put it in a spacer in the hot side. i've seen spacers specifically for that


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_you could put it in a spacer in the hot side. i've seen spacers specifically for that

pics?


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I don't see why a sensor in the uppipe or just below the flange of the DP wouldn't be sufficiently accurate. As of late I've wanted an EGT and AFR. I just don't have anywhere to put them... haha. A pillar is an airbag and I'm not going to cluster my column all up. So... they'll just have to wait until I get a different head unit or something and then I'll toss them in the empty area.


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
pics?

Damn, I can't find it. I just saw a spacer the other day. It was for a super 60. I think you may also be able to just not put the probe in far enough to brake off. There is a point at which it wil be slightly in the exhaust stream but not enough to actually fold and break off. Not sure how much that would effect the reading...


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

I'm happy to report that my setup is running great right now. I came up with a funny way of hooking up the DV and it seems to work well to improve drivability.
This is all just a theory, I have no real basis of fact for why it's working. I have 2 check valves, each facing the opposite direction, one of which has a 1psi gate on it (1psi cracking pressure/won't let anything through less than 1psi and only in one direction). The check valves are attached to one Tee which is connected to the intake mani and another Tee which is connected to the DV. Here's the setup:








The gated check valve is keeping the DV open until there is 1psi of boost in the intake mani. I think this more of less means that you have to really "mean it" before it will start boosting a lot, otherwise the DV will stay open. To get 1psi in the intake mani, you have to have quite a lot of boost since at this point, the DV is still open. Using the gated check valve was more of a test, if this works well in the long run, I was going to try a bleed valve with a check valve so I can "tune" the DV closing.
I was going to also test this same setup on the wastegate, so that it in theory it won't open and close rapidly (like at part throttle on the border between vacuum and boost when bumps in the road make pedal input imperfect or whatever it is).
I think when you are close to the 0psi/0hg border, it needs to ignore some amount of air that could cause either the DV or the wastegate to flutter. I think maybe things like air coming off the turbine blades (and bumps in the road making your foot tap the peddle) could create some fluctuations that at 0psi/0hg actually are enough to cause problems like what we often call "part throttle" issues. My guess is that with stock boost levels, these variations don't get amplified so exponentially.
Anyhow, it's just a test, could be totally bogus, but I've been running all day like this and it's about as smooth as having the N249 in the loop, maybe even smoother, and it's much faster off the line. If it continues to work well, then I will feel confident enough to go get my car dynoed (which I paid for several weeks ago at EuroSport Dyno Day).
And I'm going to try to get hold of some bleed valves because they may allow for some adjustment. It might not be possible to get a bleed valve to be very precise at only 1psi, or even with a regular check valve before the bleed, it still might not be the same thing at all as the 1psi gated check valve. The 1psi gated check valves I have are from USPlastics.com, they are super cheap and they work very well.
I'm sure I'll hear a bunch of wtf's and you're crazies but I had nothing to loose once I first tested it at low speed, then later at full boost wot.
























_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 11:20 PM 7-6-2007_


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Well, last night I put my vacuum basically back to stock. I put my DV back to the hardline just off the combi, vac reservior on the valve cover, and FPR just used as a source for my boost gauge. Overall... things basically worked the same for me and I still had no partial throttle. There is something w/how the N75 is programmed is all I can figure. Literally... my setup is the same as stock now. And this time around I'm stock and not 2 staging or anything. Something must be wrong w/the N75 is all I can come to on this setup. My N75 is of the F fashion and I've tried a few different F's in there and they all do the same exact thing. 
Now, I could be wrong... but is there anyone CURRENTLY running Revo k04-02x software and happy with it? I seem to find that everyone running it is tinkering with it incessantly. I think if we're all having similar issues (2306 and I discussed this a bit) we need to document them and get some logs and take them to Revo. Not even PI... but to Revo. Quite frankly my car is less and less fun to drive. It's just like having an MBC in place. To go up a hill I need to go WOT and get going fast enough to carry me up the hill pretty much. 
Sorry for the rant... but I'm quite sick of the BS. First it was no one knows what MAF sensor to run, or which N75 to run, or whatever. There's never been clarity from PI/Revo on this setup. I'm sure that has a lot to do w/some issues we're having... or maybe they just did a garbage tune and blanket tuned the load values to save time/money and the lack of partial throttle is the result.
Everyone w/Revo K04-02x software please step forward and state your piece. Maybe if we get enough people we'll get something done.


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

It's too bad we all live so far away, we should try driving eachothers cars.


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## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

Yea when im building boost it feels like the wastegate is opening and air is coming out, once it gets past that sticking point it holds air a little better but only 16psi


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

I'm happy with my REVO k04-20 SW. I have no problems with my car. I run the J valve! If you guys are going to WATERFEST i' ll let you guys drive my car. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

My car is so much fun to drive right now, i'm really happy with it. No more clacking noises either, i think that was my IC mounting brackets.


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## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_I'm happy with my REVO k04-20 SW. I have no problems with my car. I run the J valve! If you guys are going to WATERFEST i' ll let you guys drive my car. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

I'll take you up on that


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_
I'll take you up on that









Just look out for my car. I will post up some pics later this week when i get the car back from the body shop. Just look out for a MOJAve Beige GTI with dark grey bbs rc wheels lic plate # GTIAWW. Oh and don't forget my mid wing.lol http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_My car is so much fun to drive right now, i'm really happy with it. No more clacking noises either, i think that was my IC mounting brackets.









You've corrected your partial throttle issues? You can actually drive the car around town and stick it at any PSI and it'll hang there until your right foot tells it otherwise? With my APR I never had a single issue. Occasionally the turbo would do the weird quick spool up thing and cause a little jerk around 2k, but otherwise I could literarlly put it at like 10psi and it'd wait there until I told it to. I could drive up a hill in whatever gear I was in because I could use the boost to pull me. Now it's a joke. If I touch boost and then back out I compressor surge. If I go into boost and try to hold something other than WOT pressures then it just automatically builds boost even if my foot doesn't move. It's terrible. Revo














http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Apparently having the 1psi gate has moved that problem further up the boost curve and so it's happening way less often. I think if I add a bleed valve (not to bleed but to adjust the gate), I'll be able to get rid of the problem completely. I'm also having way less backfiring and stuff. I think I may be on the right path, we'll so if this setup can't be improved further but it's totally drivable right now. I'm not sure if this will fix anyone else's car though, who knows...


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I'm not sure if anyone else feels the way I do... but at this point I'm quite angry that I paid $700 to have a setup that I'm always tinkering with. I have yet to be happy w/how my car is driving. When I was 2 staging I had fine partial throttle. Now that I have boost almost where it should be I have no partial throttle. Never in all of this time have I seen more than 15-16psi at redline either. I've pressure tested my car a few times now. The first time showed me that I had a leak and I got it fixed. Now everything should be hunky dory. I just want what I paid for...


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## lax1492 (Jan 19, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_I'm not sure if anyone else feels the way I do... but at this point I'm quite angry that I paid $700 to have a setup that I'm always tinkering with. I have yet to be happy w/how my car is driving. When I was 2 staging I had fine partial throttle. Now that I have boost almost where it should be I have no partial throttle. Never in all of this time have I seen more than 15-16psi at redline either. I've pressure tested my car a few times now. The first time showed me that I had a leak and I got it fixed. Now everything should be hunky dory. I just want what I paid for...

i dont know the history of this issue so if its been answered already my apologies for not catching it... but have you talked to PI or Revo? I had this kit when my car was an automatic anyways long story short i had to talk to revo ,there was a software issue.After talking it over with PI for a while one of the Revo Reps called me, told me they would help me right after they put out the mk5 software, gave me a new file and i was on my way. (thats the short version. it took about a month). But what im getting at is they did help . I know they wont put another file out but it could be a simple software tweak ??


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (lax1492)*

I actually have talked to Revo a bit. The only issue is that they didn't even really want to talk unless I had some logs. They said that by looking at the logs they'd be able to tell me whether or not it's a hardware or software issue. Unfortunately for me... I don't have any logs still. I've been looking for a cable a LOT lately. Maybe it'll come through sometime sooner than later and I can get some logs. They seemed like they'd be willing to offer input as long as they had something to look at. Which is completely fine by me... my only complaint currently is that I have to actually get logs to find a remedy. And I still suspect they'll point at hardware. Once when I talked to them they said if I didn't have a Pro-Imports kit that could be the reason. That kind of made me crazy.


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## lax1492 (Jan 19, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

i think thats fair, they need some data first to see whats going on. Same thing happened with me just PI sent them all my logs. But overall at least they talked to you. Software is a tricky business.


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (lax1492)*


_Quote, originally posted by *lax1492* »_i think thats fair, they need some data first to see whats going on. Same thing happened with me just PI sent them all my logs. But overall at least they talked to you. Software is a tricky business. 

I definitely think it's fair, I agree. I'm just trying to figure out whether this is a widespread issue or not. After all, if me and at least say... 2-3 others have all the same issues then it would help to narrow out some options and also be a little more beneficial if we were all working together to figure out some issue (sw or hw related).


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I'm not saying I don't still have those issues, I have just minimized them so they aren't bothering me nearly as much. It would still be 100% better if the software was working correctly.
What sucks more than anything else is that before PI touched my ECU, I could have sold it because the immo defeat was on. Now it's totally locked down http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 


_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 1:57 PM 7-8-2007_


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

Ok so after a week of vacation in sunny Florida I'm back in Cincinnati tuning the GLI http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
The first thing I did since my last post was remove the diode I had installed. This surprisingly stopped all of the boost oscillation which made me very happy. However, I did notice a slight hesitation in the boost now. Not quite the "2 stage" boosting 04VDubGLI had been experiencing, but very close to it. This frustrated me a bit so I started messing with N75/MBC setups to see if I could get rid of it. Well, the best I could do was with the N75 H valve and the MBC in overboost mode. The car would boost to 17-18, hold there for a very short time, then kick to 23-24 and eventually end around 18 or so at redline. The car felt strong and smooth, but the very slight hesitation in boost still bugged me a little. So, using advice I found in many REVO BT threads I decided to try it with the N75 plugged in electronically and the MBC controlling boost alone. My biggest fear with this setup was the dreaded partial throttle surging, but I figured I'd rather have smooth boost at WOT and just deal with the partial throttle issues. I hooked the car up and took it for a spin and was very happy with the results. The car boosted to 24-25 psi and slowly fell to 18-19 at redline. No more hesitation and no signs of oscillation. I also noticed that the partial throttle was not nearly as bad as I expected. I'm still able to drive the car like an old lady if I want, as long as I keep the boost under 5 psi or so. I also noticed that if I'm soft enough on the throttle I can control partial throttle up hills and not have to go WOT just to get up them








Anyway, I also did some vag com logs once I got the boost under control and everything looked great. The car was only pulling 3* of timing at setting 4 so I used my SPS 3 to turn the timing to setting 5 where it now pulls around 6* max. The car is running strong and the boost delivery is awesome. I'm scheduling a dyno for later this week so check back this weekend and I should have some base 93 octane numbers for everyone http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Oh and I know most of you did this about ten pages or so ago, but here is a picture of the car and the engine bay


























_Modified by 20vTurboGLI at 3:51 AM 7-9-2007_


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I'm still having garbage partial throttle. I sent you a PM back. I still don't understand why mine won't hold above around 15psi @ redline either. I really don't know what the deal is.


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

Yeah, I never had a problem with partial throttle until I took the N75 completely out of the loop... I wish I could find a way to keep the N75 in there, but it seems pretty hopeless at this point. Everytime I use the N75 I get the hesitation in boost, then as soon as I remove it the boost spikes to where ever I set it. Oh well, I can deal with the touchy part throttle as long as the boost is smooth at WOT http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

I also only hit 16psi to redline








gonna try running taking the N75 out totally and see what happens


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

Has anyone considered using an EBC to control boost with the K04-02x? I've read in a few other BT threads that using an EBC instead of the N75 or MBC will allow you to set your boost spike to within 1 psi of whatever you want and will give you a much smoother and less touchy part throttle. Most of the guys who have used an EBC claim they give you a much smoother boost curve overall. In fact, despte the high price ($200-$350) if I can't find a N75/MBC combination that gives me a smooth boost curve at WOT and allows decent partial throttle, I think I'm going to pick up a Greddy EBC and see how that goes. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

I asked about EBC's and the gods of the PI kit said that it wouldn't work well. Then when I asked a second time, they said go ahead. Not sure if the gods were being sarcastic the second time.








They said for sure that the game-boy based turbo-xs ebc wouldn't work because it's closed-loop. I have yet to see how any of the others aren't also closed-loop. Apparently the APEXi EBC would work but that was mainly what I asked about and got differing advice from the same god.
I kind of believe that if you tuned it perfectly and if the EBC gave you enough control, you could get it to work perfectly. But if it wasn't perfect, your results would likely be similar to a MBC - lots of backfiring, lots of fuel consumption, etc. Unfortunately, our cars like to control everything, and when they can't, they freak out - more so than other cars anyway.
One promising lead I did get was when I asked a megasquirt ECU manufacturer, I asked if their ECU could control just boost and basically only listen to the other stock sensors for whatever the basics were to make it work. They said they thought it would be possible. I kind-of think that something like MS would be way more capable and upgradable, and who knows, maybe you could transition over to completely MS engine management.








Thing is, you shouldn't have to do any of these things, it should just work. If you can't do the legwork to prove to Revo that something is broken, then you should just switch to GIAC...
*Are there any folks with GIAC who have any of the problems we have been complaining about?* I mean part-throttle and all the rest. If there are a few who also have these problems with GIAC then maybe it's best to try something new like an EBC... Otherwise, we should all dump Revo and go GIAC...
Also, if anyone who has these problems lives anywhere near PI, why not drive it over there and show them? Even if they are in the next state, it would really help everyone if they could see it first-hand.


_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 8:34 PM 7-9-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i dont like ebc's, not as reliable


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

Ok, so instead of trying an EBC maybe I'll just hook the N75 valve back up and take some logs of the hesitating boost then send them to REVO. Maybe just maybe they'll have a suggestion for me (other than of course blaming my hardware...)
Oh well, I can handle the car with the MBC alone. At least this way the car runs well at WOT and if I'm careful enough it's not too terribly difficult to drive at partial throttle. I'm sure I'll get used to it. Heck, don't most BT guys use an MBC and ditch the N75 anyway?


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

Try to put the car back to the original vac system too because they will surely blame that and you'll have wasted your (and their) time. They need to see a car that is spec'ed to their spec but isn't performing to their spec...


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_Try to put the car back to the original vac system too because they will surely blame that and you'll have wasted your (and their) time. They need to see a car that is spec'ed to their spec but isn't performing to their spec...









The car is already using the original vac system. I re-installed the vac reservoir the other day and that was the only change I had made, other than my oil catch can (which I'm not going to remove). I don't think they can argue with my setup not being close enought to their spec. If I can find the time later this week I'll switch back to the stock N75 and do some boost logs, then I'll talk to my local REVO dealer (who happens to be a very good friend of mine) and have him contact REVO with the logs. Then we will wait and see what they have to say...
However, for now the car is still performing very well at WOT with just the MBC hooked up. This means if all goes well, I will be hitting the dyno here within the next week http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

I guess I'll probably give in and hit the dyno too. I doubt if my whp is going to change anytime soon and it's as good as I have ever seen it currently. Even if Revo fixes these problems, we still should be seeing the same or similar numbers at WOT w/max boost.
But I would recommend that for the dyno, that you connect your DV directly to the intake mani. You will make more power on launch that way (though in real life, in theory, it's better for drivability to have the DV connected normally via the N249).








I'm kind of undecided as to whether or not to leave in my 1psi gate because I have suspicions that it makes more power. My theory is that the turbo spins up un-restricted which gives perhaps more power in a surge when the DV closes. You can hear it if you step on the gas in a certain way, it makes a blow-off kind of sound at first. Maybe I'll dyno it with and without this setup and see if it's total nonsense.










_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 3:09 AM 7-10-2007_


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

Seems to me that this problem is mostly seen on GLI, 20th's. The majority of you guys with this kit have GLI's or 20th's and see this problem. Myself and the other 2 users that don't have GLI's or 20th's don't see all these problems that u guys are seeing with the boost issue. WHo know's we've blamed it on everything else might as well blame it on the model of the car.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Haha. Revo sucks at programming the load values for a six speed? No joke, maybe the programmed it for a 5 speed and then just forgot that 6 speeds have different load values and just "added" a gear on to the 5 speed values. That would be about the perfect situation to explain everything being screwed up.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I don't see how they could have screwed this up cause both PI test cars were 20th's.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Haha. Revo sucks at programming the load values for a six speed? No joke, maybe the programmed it for a 5 speed and then just forgot that 6 speeds have different load values and just "added" a gear on to the 5 speed values. That would be about the perfect situation to explain everything being screwed up.

in our ECU's they don't program for 5spd vs. 6spd...the ecu is load based, so once you put load on the vehicle all the maps adjust based on the input of the sensors...for instance, any 5spd file will work with any 6spd file...(we can try my ecu, which is for a 5spd according to you, as it was tuned on a 5spd car, and works very well on my 6spd)
don't confuse load tables within the ecu vs. load on the car


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_
*Are there any folks with GIAC who have any of the problems we have been complaining about?* I mean part-throttle and all the rest. If there are a few who also have these problems with GIAC then maybe it's best to try something new like an EBC... Otherwise, we should all dump Revo and go GIAC..

I will put money that the GIAC files have the best PT out of any file out there...Every time I've driven a GIAC file (although it might not be the most powerful) but it's deff. the best PT


----------



## sleeperstatis (Mar 22, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

I know that this information is probably burried in this 56 page thread, but i was wondering if anyone could tell me where they got their ko4-02x from and what are some PNW distributors of Borg Warner Turbos. I have checked the Borg Warner site and I have googled it but cannot find a local distributor. Thanks for the help!


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (sleeperstatis)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sleeperstatis* »_I know that this information is probably burried in this 56 page thread, but i was wondering if anyone could tell me where they got their ko4-02x from and what are some PNW distributors of Borg Warner Turbos. I have checked the Borg Warner site and I have googled it but cannot find a local distributor. Thanks for the help!

I got mine from Pro Imports. But you can probably find one in the classifieds off any audi tt225.


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (sleeperstatis)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sleeperstatis* »_I know that this information is probably burried in this 56 page thread, but i was wondering if anyone could tell me where they got their ko4-02x from and what are some PNW distributors of Borg Warner Turbos. I have checked the Borg Warner site and I have googled it but cannot find a local distributor. Thanks for the help!

air flow systems in tukwila washington


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

Ok I've decided how I'm going to deal with the boost on this kit. I'm going to buy the Boostvalve Deluxe 2 stage Boost Controller. This way I'll be able to set a low boost and a high boost and switch back and forth on the fly. This will allow me to set the low boost around 10-11 psi and should make daily driving more pleasant, even at partial throttle, at least the turbo won't be trying to spike to 20+ psi this way. I may also try to get creative and run the stock N75 valve inline with the low boost MBC to see if I can generate a stock like boost curve. Then I'll just run the High boost MBC as a normal MBC (just like I have the car setup right now) We'll see what happens and I'll be back with an update once it arrives and I get it installed http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


_Modified by 20vTurboGLI at 6:15 PM 7-10-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_Ok I've decided how I'm going to deal with the boost on this kit. I'm going to buy the Boostvalve Deluxe 2 stage Boost Controller. This way I'll be able to set a low boost and a high boost and switch back and forth on the fly. This will allow me to set the low boost around 10-11 psi and should make daily driving more pleasant, even at partial throttle, at least the turbo won't be trying to spike to 20+ psi this way. I may also try to get creative and run the stock N75 valve inline with the low boost MBC to see if I can generate a stock like boost curve. Then I'll just run the High boost MBC as a normal MBC (just like I have the car setup right now) We'll see what happens and I'll be back with an update once it arrives and I get it installed http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
_Modified by 20vTurboGLI at 6:15 PM 7-10-2007_

Sounds complicated and expensive haha. Revo FTL. Add that cost onto your cost for SW to begin with. Gotta love it


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
Sounds complicated and expensive haha. Revo FTL. Add that cost onto your cost for SW to begin with. Gotta love it

It's not very complicated at all and it's not too terribly expensive ($150 for the 2 stage controller). Besides I know a few people with GIAC who are running the same boost controller. One of them is running X+ on a BT setup the other is using it with the K04-001 software. Both of them claim partial throttle isn't bad at all in low boost, but of course high boost is like any other MBC. Plus it allows you to have a max high boost for when you want to get on it, race, dyno or whatever while at the flip of a switch allowing you to run lower, safer boost for daily driving. If I can make the low boost setting drive like stock, at partial throttle and WOT, then to me it will be worth every penny http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

My little gated check valve system definitely does something because I took it off today and I am now reminded of how bad things were without it. Not sure but does someone else want to order some gated check valves off usplastics.com and try it out? It's only a few $... They are 1psi gated check valves.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

Wierd, yeah I put my contraption back in and it's much better again. It's actually doing something. Might be something worth checking out, I can't guarantee anything but it definitely works well for me. It's still not what I'd like it to be but part throttle is a whole lot better with this thing. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Another theory I have about why it works is that it makes sure that the charge pipes are empty for a second which allows the wastegate more time to close for the next boost cycle (I think that our part throttle issues are related to the timing of the N75 valve with the Revo programming - I think it's not allowing enough time for the wastegate to fully close during gear changes and other events and so when we get back on the throttle, it's easy for the wastegate to open back up again too early).


_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 7:00 PM 7-10-2007_


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

Hey 04VdubGli
Before i never really understood what u meant by 2 staging boost, well i know now








my partial throttle is wack as well its either 5psi or WOT for me. just like you im only hitting 16psi to redline







and running Revo BT








We have to find out the issue with this cuz its been bothering me for awhile too. I'm running a homemade MBC inline with my stock N75 plugged in electornically. the only other thing i can think of is to elinimate the N75 totally.
have you tried that?


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_Hey 04VdubGli
Before i never really understood what u meant by 2 staging boost, well i know now








my partial throttle is wack as well its either 5psi or WOT for me. just like you im only hitting 16psi to redline







and running Revo BT








We have to find out the issue with this cuz its been bothering me for awhile too. I'm running a homemade MBC inline with my stock N75 plugged in electornically. the only other thing i can think of is to elinimate the N75 totally.
have you tried that?

I currently have the N75 bypassed completely. I left it plugged in electronically but I'm not using it to control boost at all. I've got an MBC controlling boost and right now the car is running great. It boosts very smooth and right to where I set it at WOT and partial throttle isn't too bad if I'm light with my foot and keep the boost under 5 psi. I just ordered the dual stage boost controller from boostvalve.com so I'll be able to set a low boost for daily driving (and for better partial throttle) and a high boost for when I want to get on it. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_Hey 04VdubGli
Before i never really understood what u meant by 2 staging boost, well i know now








my partial throttle is wack as well its either 5psi or WOT for me. just like you im only hitting 16psi to redline







and running Revo BT








We have to find out the issue with this cuz its been bothering me for awhile too. I'm running a homemade MBC inline with my stock N75 plugged in electornically. the only other thing i can think of is to elinimate the N75 totally.
have you tried that?

Haha. I'm sorry that you have joined the club. That's exactly how my car is. Though, I have managed to eliminate the 2 staging. I just have the garbage partial throttle. The car really is NO FUN at all to drive. I mean... it should be a blast because of the tq and spool time, but really it blows. 
I ran MBC w/N75 just plugged in electronically and it ran fine, but still tapered off at the end and still had no partial, obviously. In fact, the car now drives almost identically to how it did when I ran it that way. Since I got rid of the 2 stg boost it now just runs like a MBC setup. But I have my N75 only doing all of the work. Who knows...







http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Wow, looks like I wasn't so far off with using the DV to control boost:
http://autospeed.drive.com.au/....html
Also, I bet we could use this with a relay to completely replace our DV's with electronic units, take a look at the graphs and see how much cleaner the drop-off is - must be a lot better for the turbo:
http://autospeed.drive.com.au/....html
I've been testing yet another setup for the N75 and vac system, here's pics of my car how it is currently:
http://www.benharpers.com/public/n75_dv_vac/
I got the idea to run the N75 off the intake mani from an AutoSpeed article I read a while back, it seems to work well because (as the article said) the reference signal is cleaner if you tap the intake mani than if you tap the charge pipes right after the turbo. This is why the MAP sensor is after the IC. Also this has the benefit of having vacuum to pull the wastegate closed at the same time as the DV opens, which readies it for the next boost cycle.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

Yeah you guys with Revo and part throttle problems aught to try my setup cause I think I have all the problems fixed now. All you have to do is cap the charge pipe where the N75 was plugged in and tee off the DV hose, connect the N75 there and connect the other end of the DV hose directly to the intake mani without the N249. After that, unplug your battery for 30 minutes, plug it back in, do a throttle body adaptation, turn your car on and leave it running for 2 minutes, go drive. When driving, try to make it have part throttle problems, it will have them like crazy at first but within a few minutes they will all go away. That is, if you don't have other problems or whatever.
http://www.benharpers.com/public/n75_dv_vac/


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

So you have your DV and N75 running off the intake manifold... together? And you have your vac reservior running off the intake manifold as well? Interesting... The n75 portion really makes sense to me. I'll be honest, I really like that idea.


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I got some logs tonight - Compliments of Val (18T_BT). If anyone wants to look them over, let me know. Maybe if there are some similiarities or something to be found we can all figure something out.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_So you have your DV and N75 running off the intake manifold... together? And you have your vac reservior running off the intake manifold as well? Interesting... The n75 portion really makes sense to me. I'll be honest, I really like that idea.

Yeah the vac resevour is there for the N112 and such, to activate the combi-valve even if I jump in my car and boost while it's trying to run the air pump.
It's running really nice like this and I like the idea of the air coming out of the wastegate actuator and flowing right into the DV and vice-versa. Plus the plumbing is so nice and short, simple.
AutoSpeed wrote that because of the way turbos work, the air that comes off them has a slight pulsation to it as the air bounces of the blades. They say that once it's passed through the IC, the signal is a lot cleaner, which is why the MAP is placed there, so it doesn't get a fluctuating reading.
If this can make such a nice improvement with Revo, I'd love to see what it'd be like with GIAC, probably even better. The turbo makes a much cleaner sound, both in terms of DV and the wastegate, even the whistle is cleaner sounding. I'd recommend giving it a try, it can't hurt.










_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 12:48 AM 7-12-2007_


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

actually the n75 gets/needs a signal before the IC, where its placed from the factory is perfect


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_
I currently have the N75 bypassed completely. I left it plugged in electronically but I'm not using it to control boost at all. I've got an MBC controlling boost and right now the car is running great. It boosts very smooth and right to where I set it at WOT and partial throttle isn't too bad if I'm light with my foot and keep the boost under 5 psi. I just ordered the dual stage boost controller from boostvalve.com so I'll be able to set a low boost for daily driving (and for better partial throttle) and a high boost for when I want to get on it. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

thats the best way to control boost! thats what i did for a bit, good luck with it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

My logs... enjoy.

Boost: Actual vs. Requested (4th gear)

AFR and IAT (4th gear pull)

AFR and 02 Adaptation (no RPMs - but was a 3rd gear pull from 2.5-7k)

MAF and Throttle Angle

Engine Load

Partial Throttle Boost (trying to maintain 5psi)

Partial Throttle (goes with above)

Maybe someone can shed some light from these? At least on my setup... if not on anyone's having similar issues. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

out of all of that.... no timing... yeesh


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_out of all of that.... no timing... yeesh

I did a timing run. But it's of no real relevance to figuring out what the car is really doing. Timing varies fuel to fuel, air temp to air temp, etc... So it's not really worth much. However, I am doing a logging binge this weekend of only timing so I can see what I can squeeze.


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
thats the best way to control boost! thats what i did for a bit, good luck with it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Thanks man, I'll be hooking up the dual stage MBC (and leaving the N75 out of the loop) this weekend so I can have a low boost setting for daily driving and a high boost setting for the track and when I want to get on it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

so anybody with a partial throttle problem? well I put the 1.8t sensor back in, seems fine to me now... with vr sensor seemed to go ape **** after some time...


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_so anybody with a partial throttle problem? well I put the 1.8t sensor back in, seems fine to me now... with vr sensor seemed to go ape **** after some time...

Guess mine will be going back in then. Gotta love PI?


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## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (bmxp)*

Okay I decided I'm going to keep my k04 afterall. I have every piece but the oil/water lines. I know some of this was discussed a few pages back but can you guys reiterate and suggest what I should do. I'm on a budget so I want to do things the cheapest way possible but I want everything right - not half assed. 

Can I reuse any of the stock lines (water or oil) and can I use either of these 2 lines here that came off a 225 TT?








I'm pretty sure the other end of the waterline in the pic has a banjo on it.


_Modified by TooLFan46n2 at 10:22 PM 7-12-2007_


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## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*

Yes you can reuse the lines... the biggest trouble is the oil feed line
page 50 is where you will find it.
Also something I put together:
http://www31.brinkster.com/bmxp/K04-02x/Index.html


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_actually the n75 gets/needs a signal before the IC, where its placed from the factory is perfect

I've been told that before but my car is running great like this so whatever. Unless you can explain why it needs to come before the IC, I don't buy it. Obviously it's not perfect otherwise why is it running better like this? Probably if I had better software I wouldn't need to have it like this but... I have revo.


_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 7:56 PM 7-12-2007_


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

Is there another Revo program that would work with this turbo? Like the super 60 program, how different could that really be considering that the two turbos are so close in terms of whp (within 30hp).


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_Is there another Revo program that would work with this turbo? Like the super 60 program, how different could that really be considering that the two turbos are so close in terms of whp (within 30hp).

If I recall, REVO doesn't offer a T3super60 specific program. I beleive the only other BT programs they offer are the GT28R and the GT28RS programs, both of which require 440cc injectors. You can call them to find out for sure but this is what I was told by my buddy the REVO dealer. I've also heard that the K04-023 responds better to a modifed version of the GT28R tune but who knows, all I know is to me it's not really worth another $150 to find out... Now if REVO will let me switch programs for a small fee, say $50 or so then I wouldn't mind trying it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

mr. charger, would know the answer to that... he said he ran the 28r software for a little bit but that was a wile ago....


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Does anyone here have the balls to call Revo and complain? Or am I the only one doing it? Everytime I call them they tell me I'm the only one complaining. Maybe if everyone steps up something will happen. Don't call PI. Call Revo.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_Okay I decided I'm going to keep my k04 afterall. I have every piece but the oil/water lines. I know some of this was discussed a few pages back but can you guys reiterate and suggest what I should do. I'm on a budget so I want to do things the cheapest way possible but I want everything right - not half assed. 

Can I reuse any of the stock lines (water or oil) and can I use either of these 2 lines here that came off a 225 TT?








I'm pretty sure the other end of the waterline in the pic has a banjo on it.

_Modified by TooLFan46n2 at 10:22 PM 7-12-2007_

I have a brand new PI oil return line!


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Does anyone here have the balls to call Revo and complain? Or am I the only one doing it? Everytime I call them they tell me I'm the only one complaining. Maybe if everyone steps up something will happen. Don't call PI. Call Revo.


I would complain but the problem is well not a problem at all that my car is running better than ever. I have NO issues, and I know once I put that 1.8t sensor back in like people are suggesting my car will run like poop again.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_If I recall, REVO doesn't offer a T3super60 specific program. I beleive the only other BT programs they offer are the GT28R and the GT28RS programs, both of which require 440cc injectors. You can call them to find out for sure but this is what I was told by my buddy the REVO dealer. I've also heard that the K04-023 responds better to a modifed version of the GT28R tune but who knows, all I know is to me it's not really worth another $150 to find out... Now if REVO will let me switch programs for a small fee, say $50 or so then I wouldn't mind trying it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

There is no turbo specific file...FYI for all you 380cc (audi TT injectors) that revo recommends with this set up @ 4bar...guess what that makes those injectors? You got it 440cc...maybe there is only just one file and REVO sells the SPS device to help you 'tune' the car (I use that term loosely)
They have Revo Stg2 and Revo Stg3:

_Quote, originally posted by *REVOTECHNIK* »_
Revo Stage 2 software has been specifically developed to attain the best possible performance from cars with more extensive bolt on performance modifications. The Revo Stage 2 software is tuned on vehicle applications using a 4 bar fuel pressure regulator, a quality aftermarket performance exhaust system and a good air intake induction system. Furthermore, our Stage 2 software can be used with a de-cat exhaust for race or track use. The tuning style is more aggressive than the basic Revo performance software, and will typically yield 10-15% more useable power.
Working in conjunction with an optional SPS device, Revo’s Stage 2 software can be finely tuned to each customer’s preference of drivability.
Stage 2 software produces 10-15% for power when used with:
* An aftermarket performance exhaust system
* A 4 bar fuel pressure regulator
* An optional aftermarket diverter valve
* And a Revo SPS
Most of our Stage 2 performance software is complimented by multiple performance programs, anti theft programs and user friendly variable table changes that become accessible when you purchase an optional Serial Port Switch. This will give you access to many different levels of enhancements built into the Revo performance software and ensure you are getting the most from any optional bolt on tuning accessories.



_Quote, originally posted by *REVOTECHNIK* »_
Revo Stage 3 software has been specifically developed to compliment a proven package of extensive engine modifications. It allows the user to choose one of several turbo charger upgrades in addition to exhaust and intake upgrades. Our Stage 3 tuning is very aggressive and depending on the hardware package you opt for will yield up to 200% power gains over standard horsepower figures*. For this software to run efficiently and reliably, a strict hardware build list must be adhered to. The individual tested components are listed on each specific car’s application pages. The optional SPS 3 is highly recommended for this range of software to guarantee the optimal performance gains achievable.
Stage 3 software disclaimers: Revo Stage 3 software has been developed to operate within specific parameters according to manufacturer’s tolerances and aftermarket manufacturer’s hardware specifications. Installing Revo software on vehicles with hardware modifications other than those specified can cause unsatisfactory performance and possible engine damage.
IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS ABOUT REVO STAGE 3 HARDWARE COMPATABILITY, CONTACT YOUR REVO DEALER FOR FURTHER INFORMATION.
Power gain examples:
* Standard VAG 150/180bhp engines modified with a KO4 or EO5 turbo upgrade can expect to see power outputs in the region of 250bhp
* Standard VAG 150/180bhp engines modified with a GT28RS turbo upgrade, intercooler and race fuel can expect to see 440bhp.


----------



## [email protected] USA (May 17, 2007)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
There is no turbo specific file...FYI for all you 380cc (audi TT injectors) that revo recommends with this set up @ 4bar...guess what that makes those injectors? You got it 440cc...maybe there is only just one file and REVO sells the SPS device to help you 'tune' the car (I use that term loosely)




We actually have many turbo specific files. 
The Pro-Imports kit is tune for the K04-020 around there specifications. We also have specific software for the GT28R, RS with the .64 housing and the RS with the .86 housing. On top of that we now have 550cc programming for the RS. The RS files can also be used with the 2871R but due to slightly different spool characterstics we require that you use a boost controller when using the 2871R.
The SPS 3 or now SPS Select Plus are simply meant to dial in each of those different files to your vehicle and fuel requirements. They are not meant to allow various turbos to work with one generic file. We have actually had several different versions of the software for over 3 years now.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Chris im glad you chimed in to this thread. Can you please tell us what MAF sensor we should be running with this kit and the REVO SW. Pro Imports has told myself and many others using this kit and REVO SW we should use the VR SENSOR in the VR housing. HOW correct is this? Was the VR6 MAF sensor part of there specifications? Please help us.









_Modified by 01gtiaww at 10:30 AM 7-13-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 10:37 AM 7-13-2007_


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_We actually have many turbo specific files. 
The Pro-Imports kit is tune for the K04-020 around there specifications. We also have specific software for the GT28R, RS with the .64 housing and the RS with the .86 housing. On top of that we now have 550cc programming for the RS. The RS files can also be used with the 2871R but due to slightly different spool characterstics we require that you use a boost controller when using the 2871R.
The SPS 3 or now SPS Select Plus are simply meant to dial in each of those different files to your vehicle and fuel requirements. They are not meant to allow various turbos to work with one generic file. We have actually had several different versions of the software for over 3 years now.

Welcome back Chris, how's GA?...maybe you do have 'specific' files as you call them, as you know these ecu's are load based, so there are very minor changes if any between k04/gt28r/rs in the .64 trim...most of the files that I've seen/tested (and I've had the very first files from you guys, which we won't even discuss here) have been sub-par...
Now, you say that the SPS device is to dial in each of the different files to your vehicle and fuel req. But, doesn't the SPS3 have timing/boost control on it? Isn't that how you guys 'tune' your files?
Lastly, do you use a specific MAF for all these files, or are they different???


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## [email protected] USA (May 17, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_Chris im glad you chimed in to this thread. Can you please tell us what MAF sensor we should be running with this kit and the REVO SW. Pro Imports has told myself and many others using this kit and REVO SW we should use the VR SENSOR in the VR housing. HOW correct is this? Was the VR6 MAF sensor part of there specifications? Please help us.










Hey guys, sorry that there has been so much confusion on this. I have spoken with Pro-Imports this morning and they have said their cars were tuned with the VR6 MAF sensor and housing. This is specific to their kit and apparently was done by them and our engineers. We did not have information on this at our support office.
So PI k04-020 kit VR6 sensor and housing
Othe REVO stage III files are to use your stock 1.8t sensor and VR6 housing.
At this time if you are having any problems or issues please report them to Pro-Imports as they have the most experience with the kit. They will in turn come to us with anything that must be changed.


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## lax1492 (Jan 19, 2004)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Well so far so good looks like the ball is rolling on a possible correction.... Most of you guys dont live by PI, but I do. My car is going in next Thursday for some odds and ends. Will keep people posted


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## [email protected] USA (May 17, 2007)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
Welcome back Chris, how's GA?...maybe you do have 'specific' files as you call them, as you know these ecu's are load based, so there are very minor changes if any between k04/gt28r/rs in the .64 trim...most of the files that I've seen/tested (and I've had the very first files from you guys, which we won't even discuss here) have been sub-par...

GA is hot, but so are the ladies








There are actually big changes between all of those programs because they are all tuned to be used with the stock N75. So between fuel requirements, timing differences and boost curves they are really not similar in anyway.


_Quote »_
Now, you say that the SPS device is to dial in each of the different files to your vehicle and fuel req. But, doesn't the SPS3 have timing/boost control on it? Isn't that how you guys 'tune' your files?

Well I said fuel requirements as you noted and by that I meant octane levels. One car may require it to be tuned for 91, the next for 93 octane. By adjusting the timing you compensate for that. We also do not have a generic 100 octane or other "race" fuel file because its not all the same for every vehicle. 
However the fuel is variable through the boost settings. If you lower the boost you will need less fuel and lower boost settings on the SPS device adjust for this.
All of our files are now meant to properly run the N75 so that is also why it is important to have the correct file for your turbo.


_Quote »_
Lastly, do you use a specific MAF for all these files, or are they different???

Our standard line of stage III files is meant to work with your factory sensor and a VR6 or 225TT housing. The pro-imports kit according to them had a VR6 sensor and housing at the time of tuning, so a this time that is what I will have to say is how it should be running.
We have done some files with larger S4 housings and stock 1.8t sensors but none of those files were meant for production.


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (lax1492)*

Thank You Chris for your response guess everyone will be putting in their vr6 sensor. I've been saying this from the very beginning, but no one believed me.


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## [email protected] USA (May 17, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_Thank You Chris for your response guess everyone will be putting in their vr6 sensor. I've been saying this from the very beginning, but no one believed me.









At this point I would say that is the best thing to do. Once we have all the cars running with all the parts that the kit was tuned with then it will be much easier to work from there.
As I mentioned here or in the other thread. Until yesterday at REVO we were not really aware of these issues, we want to make sure we get them resolved.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_There are actually big changes between all of those programs because they are all tuned to be used with the stock N75. So between fuel requirements, timing differences and boost curves they are really not similar in anyway.

So, since these are all tuned via the N75, how good should part throttle (PT) be? One of the guys in this thread (I did some logs with) can't hold 5psi @ PT to save his life.


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
At this point I would say that is the best thing to do. Once we have all the cars running with all the parts that the kit was tuned with then it will be much easier to work from there.
As I mentioned here or in the other thread. Until yesterday at REVO we were not really aware of these issues, we want to make sure we get them resolved.

Hey Chris. I'm Trevor. I spoke to you yesterday. Any news on the logs? Val is asking specifically about those logs I sent you. Please call me when you get an opportunity. The logs I sent you were running a VR MAF sensor + housing, just for the record. Today I'm going to give the 1.8T sensor a go and see how my car runs. I find it very difficult to believe that a k04-020 would be flowing 246 g/s. That sounds awful high for what it is and that's what my readings hit w/the VR sensor in place. Anyhow, please call me once you review the logs. I'm really hoping that those can maybe assist everyone here by giving you more information on the setup. As I told you, I sent those logs to Pat @ PI before I spoke to you, but I find that I'm probably more likely to get a quicker response from you and you also can reference more so what the SW should do (as I'm sure there are a ton of ways for you to interpret what I sent). Anyhow, thanks again for your help yesterday. I also very much so appreciate you joining the discussion. Also, like I said yesterday, last I had spoken to someone at Revo you were in CA. So I really HAVE been trying to work this out for a while. It just took me some time to get back to this point. I'm glad to see you're being very proactive about this. Thanks again!
-Trevor


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## [email protected] USA (May 17, 2007)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
So, since these are all tuned via the N75, how good should part throttle (PT) be? One of the guys in this thread (I did some logs with) can't hold 5psi @ PT to save his life.

This is something I am looking at. I will respond more in depth to his post.
But also these are things that need to be sent to Pro-Imports and brought up with them directly. Many problems are not always software related and that is all we deal with.


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## [email protected] USA (May 17, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
Hey Chris. I'm Trevor. I spoke to you yesterday. Any news on the logs? Val is asking specifically about those logs I sent you. Please call me when you get an opportunity. The logs I sent you were running a VR MAF sensor + housing, just for the record. Today I'm going to give the 1.8T sensor a go and see how my car runs. I find it very difficult to believe that a k04-020 would be flowing 246 g/s. That sounds awful high for what it is and that's what my readings hit w/the VR sensor in place. Anyhow, please call me once you review the logs. I'm really hoping that those can maybe assist everyone here by giving you more information on the setup. As I told you, I sent those logs to Pat @ PI before I spoke to you, but I find that I'm probably more likely to get a quicker response from you and you also can reference more so what the SW should do (as I'm sure there are a ton of ways for you to interpret what I sent). Anyhow, thanks again for your help yesterday. I also very much so appreciate you joining the discussion. Also, like I said yesterday, last I had spoken to someone at Revo you were in CA. So I really HAVE been trying to work this out for a while. It just took me some time to get back to this point. I'm glad to see you're being very proactive about this. Thanks again!
-Trevor

We are not fuly informed on what the software should do at this office since the software was developed by one of our engineers for Pro-imports. They are in charge of what they requested to be done. So while we were involved issues need to be taken up with them directly we can only help to some extent.
The fact that your vehicle is requesting about .5bar but making 1.5 bar doesn't even necessarily point to a software issue. As you can see the car is only attempting to make that .5 bar but is making more. Any number of physical issues could contribute to this. What n75 are you running? Is it installed in the proper orientation? Are you positive that it is in fact fully functional or there are no leaks in the lines to or from it. 
I understand that we were involved in the process of tuning the kit but not all problems are related to software.
As for the G/S that would all depend on how things were scalled in the software. Just because one vehicle sees 200 on one companis software and 250 on anothers does not mean that they scaled the readings correctly. In the case of the K04-020 software it sounds to me as if the scalling was done to show actual G/S readings, not just use the MAF to comensate for larger injectors. You would need to compare your readings to only other cars running this specific software not any other software.


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
We are not fuly informed on what the software should do at this office since the software was developed by one of our engineers for Pro-imports. They are in charge of what they requested to be done. So while we were involved issues need to be taken up with them directly we can only help to some extent.
The fact that your vehicle is requesting about .5bar but making 1.5 bar doesn't even necessarily point to a software issue. As you can see the car is only attempting to make that .5 bar but is making more. Any number of physical issues could contribute to this. What n75 are you running? Is it installed in the proper orientation? Are you positive that it is in fact fully functional or there are no leaks in the lines to or from it. 
*N75F. It's definitely installed in the proper orientation. Oddly enough, my car used to have a 2 stage boost issue. Where it would only make 10psi til 4k rpms. Which honestly doesn't look all that far off from what the requested is. So is that how it should be running then? It shouldn't hit full boost until very late in the RPM range? I replaced all of the vacuum lines that were connected to the N75/WG. I originally DID have a boost leak (when 2 stg boosting) at my MAP sensor (big map hole, small map sensor - shop never told me). Since then I fixed that and re-pressure tested it with what would seem ideal results?*
I understand that we were involved in the process of tuning the kit but not all problems are related to software.
As for the G/S that would all depend on how things were scalled in the software. Just because one vehicle sees 200 on one companis software and 250 on anothers does not mean that they scaled the readings correctly. In the case of the K04-020 software it sounds to me as if the scalling was done to show actual G/S readings, not just use the MAF to comensate for larger injectors. You would need to compare your readings to only other cars running this specific software not any other software.
*Anyone care to share their G/S readings? As I'm the only one to post logs thus far... I certainly can't look back and find them. I'd settle for someone just typing them even. 246 g/s just seems awful high for such a small turbo. Afterall, I believe I've read that your g/s reading *assuming accurate* can be multiplied by something like 1.23 and that'd give an idea of what the car would be making HP wise. That's like 303hp. I'd love that, but I don't think that's what's going on. I mean, I recognize that figure is purely a rough estimate, but when I did logs w/my 1.8T sensor in (when I was 2 stg boosting) I was having low 200s. Which is much more reasonable would be my guess. *


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Ok, well what can we log that would be helpful in terms of tracking this stuff down? Like I said, I have the same problems but I know for sure I have all the right hardware, and that it is fully functional. I've tried 2 different N75 valves, one is a N75F which the kit specifies and the other is an N75C, which is what the TT's came with. Both N75 valves perform similarly after adaptation. I have a genuine TT MAF and airbox, etc. I've tried it with and without the factory vacuum setup (DV to N249 and DV direct to mani, both are similar).
I've also noticed that my SPS3 isn't able to make a large difference in boost. Whether it's set to low boost 5 or high boost 5, I get similar 18-20PSI peak boost, which is held till redline. If the N75 was bad, wouldn't it have trouble boosting as high as that? If the N75 is bad, I thought you see either high boost spikes or low boost all the time - not consistent 18-20PSI. Apart from the SPS3 having little to no effect (at least on my car), the peak boost at WOT is fine, it makes a decent amount of power... The problem is really just with drivability and part throttle (which everyone seems to have a problem with).


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## jrj32789 (Feb 13, 2006)

I am considering buying a k04-02x setup, or a k04-001, but i am unsure now. I know the k04-02x seems like a much better investment, between the two that is. In actuality, i think none of it is really worth it, no offense. I had a gt3076r kit in the works, and just bought rods and everything to do the motor, but recent arguments with the parents changed things, until i pay the car off at least. but anyways, I currently have a k03s, and am trying to piece together my own 02x kit. I know i need the turbo, manifold, and larger injectors/tt maf for GIAC's programming at least. but am I going to need new oil/coolant/water lines as well? also, what piping/dp changes need to be made with this setup?
If it ends up costing too much, i think I will just go with a 001 just because I have found a deal on turbo/apr mani for fairly cheap. I just dont know if either will really be worth it. I feel Ive made a lot of power/tq. on this k03s and it seems that power/tq varies so much on both the 02x and 001 turbos. I dont see why 260+hp and 315+ tq can be achieved. If i can get this turbo to give me around 270whp and 310+tq. I think this is what i need. a bigger turbo is out of the question at this point in time, So im kinda stuck with oem spec turbos for now.
THanks for any help/input.


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (jrj32789)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jrj32789* »_I am considering buying a k04-02x setup, or a k04-001, but i am unsure now. I know the k04-02x seems like a much better investment, between the two that is. In actuality, i think none of it is really worth it, no offense. I had a gt3076r kit in the works, and just bought rods and everything to do the motor, but recent arguments with the parents changed things, until i pay the car off at least. but anyways, I currently have a k03s, and am trying to piece together my own 02x kit. I know i need the turbo, manifold, and larger injectors/tt maf for GIAC's programming at least. but am I going to need new oil/coolant/water lines as well? also, what piping/dp changes need to be made with this setup?
If it ends up costing too much, i think I will just go with a 001 just because I have found a deal on turbo/apr mani for fairly cheap. I just dont know if either will really be worth it. I feel Ive made a lot of power/tq. on this k03s and it seems that power/tq varies so much on both the 02x and 001 turbos. I dont see why 260+hp and 315+ tq can be achieved. If i can get this turbo to give me around 270whp and 310+tq. I think this is what i need. a bigger turbo is out of the question at this point in time, So im kinda stuck with oem spec turbos for now.
THanks for any help/input.

http://www31.brinkster.com/bmxp/K04-02x/Index.html
refer there. One of the k04-020 owners made it so we don't have to actually explain most of that stuff anymore. 
The turbo is by no means a BT. 270whp is achieved on 100oct. Same w/the 310wtq. If you're talking about running race gas you'll be happy. If you're looking for that on 93oct... you'll be reaching for lots and lots and lots of mods.


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

Update time:
Today I installed my Boostvalve Dual Stage MBC and I am very pleased with the results. I set low boost to 11-12 psi and high boost to 21-22 psi. In low boost the car drives like it did stock. Partial throttle is perfect (and this is without the N75!!!) and full boost feels surprisingly strong for only 12 pounds. High boost is well... Insane!!! It pulls very hard and of course since I'm not using the N75 at all, partial throttle is a bit touchy but it's nothing I can't handle with some practice. Overall I'm very happy with the way the car is performing and I wanted to let everyone know that I'm scheduled to hit the dyno Monday during the day. It will be on 93 octane and will be at 23-24 psi. I'll post up the dyno sheet as soon as I get it on Monday http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


_Modified by 20vTurboGLI at 4:21 AM 7-14-2007_


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

Damn you'll beat me to it. I'm going to wait a second cause I just got a new job and so that means more money to spend on my car. So I could just be buying GIAC sw in the near future, screw this almost $!k of Revo software that doesn't work properly nor provide any local support. I mean I paid $499 for stage 1, $199 for stage 2 and $199 for stage 3 so that's $900 not including other factors. And for what?
I was considering the turbosmart dual stage. So now you have two staging again but you like it cause you can control it this time.







Thing is, you won't be king of the pirates until you put a tactile switch under your accelerator as the way to get to the stage 2. That was my plan, but it got shot down by some guy like always.
Glad you're happy, I might do something like that but I still want the sw to work as a baseline in totally stock form (N249, etc). If I can't get it to work without having it a modded like I do or without having a electric mbc like yours, then I'll just switch to a different turbo that has better software choices.


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

In my opinion, and this is just my thoughs on it, if you're going to get GIAC, I would suggest flashing your current ECU w/Revo GT28RS 440cc file. Then sell it and start over. So at least you're not losing everything you spent. I've been considering that very much. Or we should all talk to Chris and tell him the software isn't cutting it. That way maybe we'll see some improvements. But that's unlikely b/c that would cost Revo money and they wouldn't be making money from it.


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

They already made money from it and they will make a lot more money if they fix it so there is a decent incentive to fix it. As good as with any other software they make, same reasons apply.
Plus, if I sell my ECU to someone else, that's a sale that they will loose so... it's all the same whether they choose to accept it or not. Just because PI doesn't want to get their hands dirty doesn't mean Revo has nothing to gain by trying to help us out. Word of mouth is a big part of their success and if we end up never getting it to work well and selling our ECM's, then we will forever not only not recommend Revo but we'll probably speak negatively of them.










_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 1:30 PM 7-14-2007_


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## jrj32789 (Feb 13, 2006)

thanks for the input. I live about 5 minutes away from a gas station that sells 110 octane, and if i do a 93/100 mix, it seems to get the job done for only around 5-10$ more than just full 93oct, so my car is always on a race gas tune.


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## jrj32789 (Feb 13, 2006)

will the forge/samco turbo inlet pipe for the k03s also fit a k04-02x from a stock tt 225? also, do i need a lower intercooler pipe reducer if i have aftermarket fmic?


_Modified by jrj32789 at 1:36 PM 7-15-2007_


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (jrj32789)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jrj32789* »_will the forge/samco turbo inlet pipe for the k03s also fit a k04-02x from a stock tt 225? also, do i need a lower intercooler pipe reducer if i have aftermarket fmic?

_Modified by jrj32789 at 1:36 PM 7-15-2007_

No the K03s Forge/Samco TIP will not fit the K04-023 from a stock 225 TT. You will need to buy the Forge/Samco TT 225 TIP. To answer your second question I'm using a Eurojet FMIC with my K04-023 and all I had to buy was a 45* coupler for the turbo to IC connection since the straight one would not work. Other than that everything fit just fine. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (beachball6)*

Let the arguments begin... Logs from me... tonight... w/a 1.8T sensor. Compare them to the previous logs of mine on the previous page. Also, keep in mind I actually have partial throttle (up to 7psi) now and my car is much smoother. 
AFR 1.8T Sensor

AFR VR

Boost 1.8T

Boost VR

MAF G/S 1.8T

MAF VR

Timing 1.8T (SPS3 setting 3)

Injectors 1.8T


Feel free to comment anyone. I'm officially going to continue running my 1.8T sensor with this software. I'm pretty certain that my car is running smoother as well as actually having some partial throttle. I didn't get a chance to check all of the same exact things, but I got some. I didn't get a chance to check fuel adaptation either, but the graph itself shows it HAS to be closer.


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

for the record PI gave me a vr sensor and i ended up with the 1.8t sensor and it ran much better with it, my airfuel looked better as well


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## [email protected] USA (May 17, 2007)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_Damn you'll beat me to it. I'm going to wait a second cause I just got a new job and so that means more money to spend on my car. So I could just be buying GIAC sw in the near future, screw this almost $!k of Revo software that doesn't work properly nor provide any local support. I mean I paid $499 for stage 1, $199 for stage 2 and $199 for stage 3 so that's $900 not including other factors. And for what?


I have not fully read all of the new posts so I want to catch up first but I wanted to clarify our price structure.
Stage I software is 499
Stage II sofware is 549
Stage III software is 699
If you have stage I and you go to stage II you only pay the $50 difference. If you have stage II and go to stage III you only pay the 150 difference. I am not sure why you were being charged 199 for each change unless that included labor or some parts.


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Chris,
Do you have any opinion on the 1.8T MAF sensor logs vs. the VR MAF sensor logs I've posted? Just curious to see what you think about them...

Jeremy,
That's interesting that you switched. Maybe it does make more sense then. 

Everyone else & Chris,
Notice the line I drew on my boost graph. The car *should* not be making "full boost" until 4000 RPMS. Does anyone else find this odd? So when I was 2 stage boosting I was probably closer to actual and requested being spot on. Now they are off because I boost prematurely? I'm actually surprised to see that it does seem to say that I'm holding more like 18psi at redline. Though my boost gauge does not suggest this (says 15-16). Still not holding the like 22-23psi it's requesting though. Someone else get some logs in here.


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## [email protected] USA (May 17, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Chris,
Do you have any opinion on the 1.8T MAF sensor logs vs. the VR MAF sensor logs I've posted? Just curious to see what you think about them...



It is quite interesting and I need to do some more investigating before I can fully comment.


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
It is quite interesting and I need to do some more investigating before I can fully comment.

As I did before, I'd happily send you all of the spreadsheets themselves if you'd like to see them. And I could get other info if needed... At this point I'm just trying to get my car running properly. And it's still not quite there yet, but it's getting closer I believe. Still feels like it falls on it's face a bit up top though. Yeah, I DO know it's still a k04


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

I have a few logs I can post up. I just finished taking most of these in preperation for my trip to the dyno tomorrow (I was going to dyno today but the shop is booked doin other stuff and can't fit me in until tomorrow...







)
I'm pleased with everything except my current high boost... I need to turn the boost up a little more and see if I can get it to spike and hold 22-24 psi. I'll have to mess with it later today and see what I can do before I hit the dyno tomorrow http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Anyway, here is my timing, timing pull, maf g/s, a/f, boost using N75 (with the hesitation), and boost with the new dual stage MBC and no N75. The Boost with the N75 was done about a week ago but everything else was just taken just now. It was roughly 86* F today and I'm using 93 oct gas with the VR6 MAF Sensor and the 380cc Injectors @ 4 bar:
Timing Pull:








Air/Fuel:








MAF G/S:








Boost (w N75 and hesitation):








Boost (MBC):








Ignition Timing:










_Modified by 20vTurboGLI at 4:48 PM 7-16-2007_


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

Oh and I plan to get one more log of boost here later tonight. I'll do a low boost and high boost log when I get the high boost where I want it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Try the 1.8T sensor if you get a chance. Your AFR looks a bit bouncy like mine was pre-1.8T sensor. Your g/s reading is much lower than mine was w/the VR sensor it though. Your timing looks great. I don't know how you can use such a high setting. Do you have the new or old SPS3? I need to check my advancement next time instead of my retard. Maybe I'm advancing just as much anyhow? Also, to be honest with you, your boost w/n75 in place doesn't look all that bad. I see your "hesitation" in there. Both on MAF reading and boost. But I'm REALLY thinking that something is wrong w/the programming. The kit shouldn't be reaching full boost @ 3700-3800 rpms. That's where I think one issue lies. That's why I drew a line on mine to show where it intercepts the RPMs. Mine was right near 4000rpms. Honestly, w/the N75 in place your boost doesn't look all that bad. I'd be surprised if your car was making more power w/the MBC. It's a little more linear, but it's also going to mess w/your AFR I'd imagine? What gear did you do your pulls from?


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

What gear were you logging in? Do you have a GLI? 02M transmission?
Your spec boost off your boost log shows ~10psi @ 3K and full boost closer to ~4K, which is similar to the dual boost problem (04VDubGLI) was experiencing...your actual looks like you are running ~17psi @ 6000rpm, can you rev it out a little bit further or for some reason you are hesitant? Your N75 also looks like it dual stages just like (04VDubGLI), but it builds boost smoother then the MBC...


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

We need to see some 5 speed logs. I'll try to post some thursday be4 my dyno at WATERFEST on SAT. See what the AWW looking like. 1.8tneck should also post some logs of his AWD on REVO BT SW so we can see all models for comparison. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Try the 1.8T sensor if you get a chance. Your AFR looks a bit bouncy like mine was pre-1.8T sensor. Your g/s reading is much lower than mine was w/the VR sensor it though. Your timing looks great. I don't know how you can use such a high setting. Do you have the new or old SPS3? I need to check my advancement next time instead of my retard. Maybe I'm advancing just as much anyhow? Also, to be honest with you, your boost w/n75 in place doesn't look all that bad. I see your "hesitation" in there. Both on MAF reading and boost. But I'm REALLY thinking that something is wrong w/the programming. The kit shouldn't be reaching full boost @ 3700-3800 rpms. That's where I think one issue lies. That's why I drew a line on mine to show where it intercepts the RPMs. Mine was right near 4000rpms. Honestly, w/the N75 in place your boost doesn't look all that bad. I'd be surprised if your car was making more power w/the MBC. It's a little more linear, but it's also going to mess w/your AFR I'd imagine? What gear did you do your pulls from? 

I did all my runs in 3rd gear, I'd do them in 4th but I'd be going way to fast for the local roads... Also I'd try my 1.8T sensor, but I think it is crapping out on me. If I could find one I knew was good I'd give it a try, but I just don't trust my stock sensor anymore...
I have a newer SPS3 and yeah, even on the stock turbo I could run high settings. I ran timing setting 6 in the winter with my REVO stage 2 on the K03s...
I agree with you that the boost didn't look too bad with the N75, however that hesitation, even as slight as it is, really makes me mad. I want the boost curve as smooth as possible, without any hesitation... I know its hard to believe looking at these logs, but with the MBC the car boosts so much smoother. Yeah, it's not holding as much up top or staying at max boost for as long, but it feels so much smoother when driving. I may try hooking the dual stage boost controller up in "overboost mode" inline with my N75 here within the next few days to see how it reacts, but we'll see. For now I've turned my max boost up to 23-24 psi and the car feels really strong. 
I also agree that something is wrong with the boost programming and this software. I don't understand why the specified boost doesn't hit its max point until 4000 RPMs...

_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
What gear were you logging in? Do you have a GLI? 02M transmission?
Your spec boost off your boost log shows ~10psi @ 3K and full boost closer to ~4K, which is similar to the dual boost problem (04VDubGLI) was experiencing...your actual looks like you are running ~17psi @ 6000rpm, can you rev it out a little bit further or for some reason you are hesitant? Your N75 also looks like it dual stages just like (04VDubGLI), but it builds boost smoother then the MBC...

I was logging in 3rd gear and yes I have a 6 speed 02M GLI. I also noticed the dual boost problem when I used the N75, that's why I'm not using the N75 anymore, I can't stand the hesitation... I agree that is builds boost smoother with the N75, but comparing the drivability of the two setups, the MBC doesn't feel any different than the N75 when building boost, only it doesn't hesitate with the N75.
I would rev the car out further, but I was already going 75+ mph in a 40 mph zone when I got to 6000 rpms... I really don't have the room around my house to do 4th gear logs or take 3rd gear past 6000 RPMs...


_Modified by 20vTurboGLI at 11:11 PM 7-16-2007_


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_1.8tneck should also post some logs of his AWD on REVO BT SW so we can see all models for comparison. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

I'll get on that when i get back from Waterfest. I might hit the dyno down in Jersey if theres some 101oct around


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

My guess on that dyno is going to be 239whp and 277whtrq.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_My guess on that dyno is going to be 239whp and 277whtrq.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

My guess is 228 and 267. Not to be a downer, but his g/s seemed kind of low. Whether it be a MAF issue on my end or his... who knows. When I ran the VR MAF sensor I was flowing 246 g/s. His looks like it tops out around 220. And I wouldn't put my car out of the 230/270 range tops. Of course now w/my 1.8T sensor I'm only getting 190 g/s. So who knows... maybe I'm off. Also, his AFR was a bit wacky, so he'll lose some power from that. Though he does have ridiculous timing. Hm... I'm curious







Best of luck either way!


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

Ok guys, I'm sorry it took so long for me to report back but I did hit the dyno today. I had the car dynoed at the same shop where I dynoed the stock turbo and it was on a dynocom dyno, which is not a dynojet. This kind of dyno can be compared to a mustang dyno, as they seem to read about the same (in fact a few of my local buddies refer to the dyno I was on today as the "heartbreaker") 
Anyway, moving onto the results, I'm not incredibly pleased with them, but I'm also not to upset about them... Just as 04VDubGLI pointed out above, my g/s were a little low and my a/f ratio was pretty wacky, which as you can guess produced dyno numbers lower than I would have hoped for. However, it still wasn't that bad.
The car put out 224 whp and 277 wtq (I can take pictures of the sheets if anyone wants to actually see them). I'm very pleased with the torque but I was hoping too see 15-20 more whp... But it's ok, because I know that the car isn't running perfect right now and that there are still a few bugs that need to be worked out. I also wanted to note that I compared the dyno sheet from today to my best K03s dyno sheet and I was amazed at the difference. With the K04-023 the car made 200+ whp from right around 4000 rpms all the way through redline, on the maxed out K03s the car barely spiked over 200 whp and fell down towards 180 whp by redline. So even though I didn't see the max hp numbers I was looking for, I'm still impressed with this turbo as an upgrade over the stocker. Now all I need to do is get my air/fuel ratio under control and see what I can do about producing some better hp numbers. Oh and just to add I'm ordering my water/meth injection kit tomorrow, which I will make sure I get installed before I hit the dyno again. The next time I post numbers I'm hoping they will be in the 250-260 whp and 290-300 wtq range, but we'll see what happens.










_Modified by 20vTurboGLI at 5:05 AM 7-18-2007_


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

At least I was right on on the torque you were gonna see. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_Ok guys, I'm sorry it took so long for me to report back but I did hit the dyno today. I had the car dynoed at the same shop where I dynoed the stock turbo and it was on a dynocom dyno, which is not a dynojet. This kind of dyno can be compared to a mustang dyno, as they seem to read about the same (in fact a few of my local buddies refer to the dyno I was on today as the "heartbreaker") 
Anyway, moving onto the results, I'm not incredibly pleased with them, but I'm also not to upset about them... Just as 04VDubGLI pointed out above, my g/s were a little low and my a/f ratio was pretty wacky, which as you can guess produced dyno numbers lower than I would have hoped for. However, it still wasn't that bad.
The car put out 224 whp and 277 wtq (I can take pictures of the sheets if anyone wants to actually see them). I'm very pleased with the torque but I was hoping too see 15-20 more whp... But it's ok, because I know that the car isn't running perfect right now and that there are still a few bugs that need to be worked out. I also wanted to note that I compared the dyno sheet from today to my best K03s dyno sheet and I was amazed at the difference. With the K04-023 the car made 200+ whp from right around 4000 rpms all the way through redline, on the maxed out K03s the car barely spiked over 200 whp and fell down towards 180 whp by redline. So even though I didn't see the max hp numbers I was looking for, I'm still impressed with this turbo as an upgrade over the stocker. Now all I need to do is get my air/fuel ratio under control and see what I can do about producing some better hp numbers. Oh and just to add I'm ordering my water/meth injection kit tomorrow, which I will make sure I get installed before I hit the dyno again. The next time I post numbers I'm hoping they will be in the 250-260 whp and 290-300 wtq range, but we'll see what happens.









_Modified by 20vTurboGLI at 5:05 AM 7-18-2007_


Hey, that's not bad at all. Honestly, I think if you were to try the 1.8t MAF sensor you may see your AFR straighten out. It still doesn't quite fix boost, but for me it really did help my AFR out a lot. Yeah, I didn't mean to be a downer in any way, I was just making a prediction. I hope you're not angry about that http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Honestly, I really think it's still ridiculous that there has to be this much fiddling w/a setup that should be VERY accurate. If you're ever around Pittsburgh or closer or anything we should meet up. It'd probably be a learning experience for both of us. I'm very impressed at the tq you put down. Must be that crazy timing you run


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I know people are gonna come on here and see your #'s and say, oh I can get that from a k04-001, but they dont see the powerband and how it holds the power it produces throughout the powerband and it's not just a 2 sec spike. Those are good numbers for 93oct . I heart torque! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

The other night I had a little fun w/a friend w/a 5spd and k03s + APR 93oct, 3" TBE, intake, and 710n. Honestly, it was very disappointing for me. As of late this kit does nothing but frustrate me. It's really been a waste of time and money. If something doesn't change - which based on my logs it's not going to - I'm going to need to do something else. This just isn't that worthy an upgrade in my eyes. I'm going to get my friend w/the stg3+ to mess around and see how that runs next. Sure it'll be another disappointment. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif This really isn't looking much better than a k04-001 unless someone can produce a worth while graph and some way to fix 90% of the rest of us.


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## sirwolfk04 (Jul 24, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Weird,
my kit was a huge improvement over the K03S. Overall, Im really satisfied with the performance versus what i have invested.
I bought the turbo-manifold-injectors (tt225) for 300$, and did the rest myself. The car pulls really harder than before and the sounds of the turbo is just pure sex


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (sirwolfk04)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sirwolfk04* »_Weird,
my kit was a huge improvement over the K03S. Overall, Im really satisfied with the performance versus what i have invested.
I bought the turbo-manifold-injectors (tt225) for 300$, and did the rest myself. The car pulls really harder than before and the sounds of the turbo is just pure sex









What software are you running anyhow?


----------



## Chemhalo (May 25, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Are most people using the Revo software? I havn't heard (or can't remember in this entire thread) of many or anyone using the GIAC software.


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## sirwolfk04 (Jul 24, 2006)

*Re: (Chemhalo)*

im still on REVO stg1 and waiting for Revo to make a stg3 for my ECU.
They said it may take a while







I am considering changing to Unitronic soon.


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Chemhalo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Chemhalo* »_Are most people using the Revo software? I havn't heard (or can't remember in this entire thread) of many or anyone using the GIAC software.

I believe only 2 people out of all the k04-20 users on this thread are using GIAC.


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (sirwolfk04)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sirwolfk04* »_im still on REVO stg1 and waiting for Revo to make a stg3 for my ECU.
They said it may take a while







I am considering changing to Unitronic soon. 


I was going to get UNITRONIC, I regret not getting it.


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## Chemhalo (May 25, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_
I believe only 2 people out of all the k04-20 users on this thread are using GIAC.

It would save me many pages of reading, but are experiences better with GIAC? If I go BT, I want to stay GIAC for the credit on software.


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Chemhalo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Chemhalo* »_
It would save me many pages of reading, but are experiences better with GIAC? If I go BT, I want to stay GIAC for the credit on software.

This is the way I view ko4 20 SW; Unitronic>Giac>Revo. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## sirwolfk04 (Jul 24, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_
This is the way I view ko4 20 SW; Unitronic>Giac>Revo. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

agree!!


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_This is the way I view ko4 20 SW; Unitronic>Giac>Revo. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Have you tried all 3 or is this a bandwagon you are starting?


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

Well, most of us have established that they would rather have gone with GIAC than REVO. I am one of the few here that really has not had any issues with my REVO k04-20 SW, but If I was to do it again I would have def. gone with GIAC or Unitronic. So, I guess you can say i'm starting a bandwagon.







Only SW I have not tried is UNITRONIC, but I here good things about it. I've experianced APR, REVO, and GIAC on BT's and K03's. My fav is APR, but they don't make K04-20 SW. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_I know people are gonna come on here and see your #'s and say, oh I can get that from a k04-001, but they dont see the powerband and how it holds the power it produces throughout the powerband and it's not just a 2 sec spike. Those are good numbers for 93oct . I heart torque! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

That's exactly what I was thinking when I posted the numbers, however you're exactly right about the powerband. Unlike the stock K03s or the K04-001 which might spike high then fall off, the K04-023 holds roughly the same amount of power throughout the band. I'll try to upload a decent picture of my dyno sheet (the colors on the chart are very faint and hard to see in a picture) to show you how the K04-023 got to 200 whp right around 4000 RPMs, spiked at 224 around 5000 RPMs then held 210-220 the rest of the way put. I'd like to see a K04-001 or a K03s do that.
Oh and just to add I was out last night messing around with my buddy with the 5 speed 1.8T Jetta with the K04-001 and water/meth again. The results were the same as last time, I pulled 3-4 car lengths from a 3rd gear 50 mph roll and I pulled even more when we dropped down to 2nd gear and 30 mph. I can't wait to get my water/meth hooked up, I have a feeling this turbo has a lot more power in it and I'm gonna do my best to unleash it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## badbidet (Sep 13, 2005)

good post. I was wondering if a 001 with w/m was comparable. I guess not.


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_
That's exactly what I was thinking when I posted the numbers, however you're exactly right about the powerband. Unlike the stock K03s or the K04-001 which might spike high then fall off, the K04-023 holds roughly the same amount of power throughout the band. I'll try to upload a decent picture of my dyno sheet (the colors on the chart are very faint and hard to see in a picture) to show you how the K04-023 got to 200 whp right around 4000 RPMs, spiked at 224 around 5000 RPMs then held 210-220 the rest of the way put. I'd like to see a K04-001 or a K03s do that.
Oh and just to add I was out last night messing around with my buddy with the 5 speed 1.8T Jetta with the K04-001 and water/meth again. The results were the same as last time, I pulled 3-4 car lengths from a 3rd gear 50 mph roll and I pulled even more when we dropped down to 2nd gear and 30 mph. I can't wait to get my water/meth hooked up, I have a feeling this turbo has a lot more power in it and I'm gonna do my best to unleash it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

How did I run a 5spd GTI and barely pull that same number of car lengths from 50-55 ish? I mean, I guess it's possible the kid has a k04-001 and doesn't know it because he's the second owner and it was all modded when he bought it. But seriously... WTF? No offense, but my logs vs. your logs I'd say you and I SHOULD be even if not me a little ahead w/the 1.8t sensor. I don't get what the deal is w/my car. It seriously falls on it's face up top. Does anyone else experience this? Maybe that's why mine feels like poop.


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## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Those numbers aren't to bad. Think about it pro-imports rates the kit at 240whp. Every 95% of manufactures rate their products with the highest obtainable power lvl or dyno number they could get. If your setup is only running at 90% that would make up the difference.
post your sheet I want to see the curve http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
How did I run a 5spd GTI and barely pull that same number of car lengths from 50-55 ish? I mean, I guess it's possible the kid has a k04-001 and doesn't know it because he's the second owner and it was all modded when he bought it. But seriously... WTF? No offense, but my logs vs. your logs I'd say you and I SHOULD be even if not me a little ahead w/the 1.8t sensor. I don't get what the deal is w/my car. It seriously falls on it's face up top. Does anyone else experience this? Maybe that's why mine feels like poop.

I wouldn't judge the cars soley based on logs. Just because my a/f ratio looks a bit wacky and my maf g/s weren't ultra high doesn't mean my car doesn't feel strong. I mean heck, the way the thing drives right now I would have thought I would have seen 240ish whp... It pulls really hard, especially up top. In fact if I had to pick out the biggest difference between this turbo and the stock turbo it would be the power up top. Unlike with the K03s my car no longer feels like it dies in the higher RPMs, in fact it feels like its getting stronger. Right now all I want to do is get my a/f under control and see if I can get the car to hold max boost a little longer. I'm thinking I may try the N75 inline with my 2 stage boost controller just to see how that goes. I'm also going to try a 1.8T maf sensor if I can get ahold of one that I know is good. Give me a week or so and I should have the car running even better. Oh and the water/meth kit hsould be here next week too http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

u wont be able to get much more out of her, maybe 5-7 hp max i bet


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_u wont be able to get much more out of her, maybe 5-7 hp max i bet

I agree 100% that the most I'm gonna see is 230 whp without water/meth. However, once I get my water/meth injectoion kit setup and the car tuned I expect I'll see 250ish whp and over 300 wtq http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
But right now, I'm trying to get as much out of it on 93 oct that I can. Do you think a 3" Downpipe would help? I've got a local buyer set up for my GHL 2.5" downpipe if I decide to upgrade to a 3", I just don't know if it would be worth the hassle and extra $100 or so...


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_
I wouldn't judge the cars soley based on logs. Just because my a/f ratio looks a bit wacky and my maf g/s weren't ultra high doesn't mean my car doesn't feel strong. I mean heck, the way the thing drives right now I would have thought I would have seen 240ish whp... It pulls really hard, especially up top. In fact if I had to pick out the biggest difference between this turbo and the stock turbo it would be the power up top. Unlike with the K03s my car no longer feels like it dies in the higher RPMs, in fact it feels like its getting stronger. Right now all I want to do is get my a/f under control and see if I can get the car to hold max boost a little longer. I'm thinking I may try the N75 inline with my 2 stage boost controller just to see how that goes. I'm also going to try a 1.8T maf sensor if I can get ahold of one that I know is good. Give me a week or so and I should have the car running even better. Oh and the water/meth kit hsould be here next week too http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Oh, I know what you're saying. I mean... mine feels real strong through the mid range, but feels flat up top. I mean... going 40mph I can get my wheels spinning easily. But once I'm above like 5200 rpms it feels almost k03s ish. I didn't mean my comment offensively. But, in all honesty, w/a VR sensor we should ALL be running near the same g/s. Really we need everyone in this thread to take some time and get logs and get a base for how this kit should be running. You and I aren't nearly enough. I mean, you may be making 220g/s ish on a VR MAF and may make the same on a 1.8T MAF. Maybe PI flashed me w/the wrong SW. haha. I'm making 190 g/s on a 1.8T sensor and 246 on a VR. But unless you do a 1.8T sensor log it'll be more difficult to relate our logs. Again, I didn't mean it offensively in any way, but I feel like a k04-001 + meth would eat me. But maybe I'm completely off. G/S should be an accurate way to help determine how much HP everyone is making. Afterall... if you're not flowing the air, you're not making the power. So... I don't know. Someone will toss their .02 in about that, but that's how I feel. Some more people get some logs up here and let's figure out what it should be doing. After all, not like we're going to get the info from Revo or PI








http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


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## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_I'm thinking I may try the N75 inline with my 2 stage boost controller just to see how that goes. 

Not worth it if it's a ball and spring.. I did it on my setup and partial throttle was no better than MBC. Unless it's a bleeder valve... or a pneumatic type controller... which is what i have then go for it.


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (bmxp)*

GIAC FTW! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_
I agree 100% that the most I'm gonna see is 230 whp without water/meth. However, once I get my water/meth injectoion kit setup and the car tuned I expect I'll see 250ish whp and over 300 wtq http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
But right now, I'm trying to get as much out of it on 93 oct that I can. Do you think a 3" Downpipe would help? I've got a local buyer set up for my GHL 2.5" downpipe if I decide to upgrade to a 3", I just don't know if it would be worth the hassle and extra $100 or so...


You def. need a 3 inch DP to see max performance. The catback does not matter as much, but the DP should Def. be 3 inch. Pro Imports even recommends a 3 inch DP. If you had a 3 inch DP your #'s would have been a little higher at least in the mid 230's. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif But then again GIAC recommends 2.5 inch exhaust for the most power, so who knows.










_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:59 AM 7-19-2007_


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_
I agree 100% that the most I'm gonna see is 230 whp without water/meth. However, once I get my water/meth injectoion kit setup and the car tuned I expect I'll see 250ish whp and over 300 wtq http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
But right now, I'm trying to get as much out of it on 93 oct that I can. Do you think a 3" Downpipe would help? I've got a local buyer set up for my GHL 2.5" downpipe if I decide to upgrade to a 3", I just don't know if it would be worth the hassle and extra $100 or so...

wont help that much


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Don't get a 3 inch Trevor...No need to be louder then your car is now, the po-po in Irwin already doesn't like ya







Plus the gains are neglible...I mean a few guys have put down almost 500whp on 2.5 inch systems http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## sirwolfk04 (Jul 24, 2006)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

Im going to install UNITRONIC next week probably. I have revo stg1 now. I will tell you how I like it... or not.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_Don't get a 3 inch Trevor...No need to be louder then your car is now, the po-po in Irwin already doesn't like ya







Plus the gains are neglible...I mean a few guys have put down almost 500whp on 2.5 inch systems http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Val, I've been rolling 3" for like 2 years. You're crazy. I liked it on my k03s to be honest. I try to get as much top end out of these things as possible.


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_GIAC FTW! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Show me a dyno to prove it and I'll put my SPS3 up for sale today http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

So was anyone able to reuse all of the stock lines. I'm working on taking my k03 out right now. Hopefully I can bend the needed lines and make em work.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_So was anyone able to reuse all of the stock lines. I'm working on taking my k03 out right now. Hopefully I can bend the needed lines and make em work.

Goodluck on that one. I used all stock audi tt 225 lines on my kit. Let me know if you need an oil return line or the short coolant line. I have both of them from my PRO Imports kit. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_
Goodluck on that one. I used all stock audi tt 225 lines on my kit. Let me know if you need an oil return line or the short coolant line. I have both of them from my PRO Imports kit. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


I have a TT return line and one of the water lines (not sure which one). I'm stuck on the damn ko3s turbocharger bracket right now. I need a set of metric allens keys for lower 2 bolts and I cannot budge the upper 13mm bolt at all even after soaking in penetrate.
Did you guys remove the axel to get at the lower turbo bracket bolts or just use an allen key. I'm worried about stripping them out (the one I mildly spun the inside because I used an SAE allen). I have an o2m tranny I'd assume the axel blocks access to the lower bolts on the 5 speed as well.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_
Show me a dyno to prove it and I'll put my SPS3 up for sale today http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

ok how about.... GIAC FTE! (where E=easy)
nah I dunno... I am happy with the drivability though.
Let me know what logs you guys want me to run and I can.


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_

I have a TT return line and one of the water lines (not sure which one). I'm stuck on the damn ko3s turbocharger bracket right now. I need a set of metric allens keys for lower 2 bolts and I cannot budge the upper 13mm bolt at all even after soaking in penetrate.
Did you guys remove the axel to get at the lower turbo bracket bolts or just use an allen key. I'm worried about stripping them out (the one I mildly spun the inside because I used an SAE allen). I have an o2m tranny I'd assume the axel blocks access to the lower bolts on the 5 speed as well.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.


didn't remove anything... Did mine on jackstands.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_

didn't remove anything... Did mine on jackstands.

x2. Removing the OEM HW was the easiest part for me.


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:24 PM 7-19-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_
x2. Removing the OEM HW was the easiest part for me.

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:24 PM 7-19-2007_

Everything but the oil line and charge piping was cake. I'd do one again for a pretty good price








Log 115(boost and RPM), 003(MAF g/s and RPM), 031(AFR, no RPM) or 032, and I think that'll cover most of the logs that are on here.


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_
x2. Removing the OEM HW was the easiest part for me.

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:24 PM 7-19-2007_

Alright its all good. I got them off I just need to get more leverage on the allen keys. K03 is off now







I'm just going to order OEM TT oil feed and water return lines tomorrow. Hopefully I have everything on next week after waterfest. Expect a dyno to follow but it may be a little bit because I'm doing some body work and as I have it scheduled right now the car is getting resprayed the 3rd week of august. I already got the baseline dyno, I'll try to take some logs so we can see how revo and GIAC compare


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

If you have the hybrid pan the OEM TT oil return doesn't fit. Just FYI.


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_If you have the hybrid pan the OEM TT oil return doesn't fit. Just FYI. 

Whoa what hydrid pan? How can I tell if I have one? And what do you mean doesn't fit?Like its angled wrong or not long enough?
I'm ordering my stuff in the morning please let me know


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_
Whoa what hydrid pan? How can I tell if I have one? And what do you mean doesn't fit?Like its angled wrong or not long enough?
I'm ordering my stuff in the morning please let me know









Hybrid pan = steel bottom w/alum sides. The return line just wouldn't match the notched out section for me. I ended up cutting up my stocker and making my own return. Then sold the TT one i had.


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

Ok so for anyone who wants to see it, here is my dyno sheet... Keep in mind its a dynocom dyno and not a dynojet, which means these numbers are more accurate. Either way, I'm going to shoot for 230 whp without water/meth, then hopefully 250+ with the water/meth, but we'll see what happens. The snow performance stage 2 water/meth kit will be here next week and I'll have it installed asap. I'm going to do a few more logs here within the next few days to see if I can squeeze that extra 6 whp out of the car before the water/meth goes on. I'm going to try the 1.8T maf sensor for 04VdubGLI and to see if my a/f ratio will straighten out a bit. I have a feeling that on a cooler, less humid day and with a few minor adjustments I can have the car at 230 whp. Then of course I get to tune the car with the water/meth and see what kind of numbers I can come up with. If all goes well I should have another dyno sheet within the next 2-3 weeks. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 










_Modified by 20vTurboGLI at 4:02 AM 7-20-2007_


----------



## double0vr6 (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

K04-023 got to 200 whp right around 4000 RPMs, spiked at 224 around 5000 RPMs then held 210-220 the rest of the way put. I'd like to see a K04-001 or a K03s do that.

Not try to start anything but im sure if u puch a ko4-20 or a ko4-001 u will see number beyond its norm. My car made these numbers before meth or racefuel. I know there uncorrected but correct it was somthing like 225,227 and 229whp and the power stayed above 200whp up to redline. Just wanted to say a ko4-001 with good tune and nice mods can do it also. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif But i wanna see what yur car will do once u puch it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif good luck bro.
My very 1st ko4-001 dyno. dynojet http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

What FMIC kits is anyone here running? I'm thinking about selling my APR and going to a Eurojet Race Core.


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_What FMIC kits is anyone here running? I'm thinking about selling my APR and going to a Eurojet Race Core.

apr fmic is fine... stop wasting money on **** you don't need. Get that bitch working right.


_Modified by Boostin20v at 8:06 PM 8-21-2007_


----------



## badbidet (Sep 13, 2005)

the guys at eurojet told me race is for bigger than GT28rs.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (badbidet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *badbidet* »_the guys at eurojet told me race is for bigger than GT28rs.

Pfft... This is about the size of a 3076? So that clears it, no?


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

my eurojet street FMIC works great with this turbo http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
and my water/meth kit will be here within the next few days. give me a week or so to get it installed and tuned and I'll be back with another dyno http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Oh and just to add, I tried my car with the 1.8T maf sensor in the VR6 housing and it ran much worse... My air/fuel ratio became even more wacked out and my boost was doing a very strange oscillation/hesitation when I hooked up the stock N75 valve. I even gave it a week to adapt and still it didn't get any better. Anyway, I put the VR6 sensor back in and the car is running just fine again. I know it doesn't seem to make much since, but for what it's worth my car likes the VR6 sensor


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_What FMIC kits is anyone here running? I'm thinking about selling my APR and going to a Eurojet Race Core.

I run a TYROL SPORT USMIC! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_What FMIC kits is anyone here running? I'm thinking about selling my APR and going to a Eurojet Race Core.

ATP http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

this is a perfect reason why eurojet are a bunch of no-name has beens....
a intercooler size/thickness matters when dealing with 2 things, size and heat, not just size....
remember a gt28rs producing 20 lbs is going to mkae less heat than a k0420 at 20 lbs.
a t3/4 at 20lbs is gonna be cooler than a k0420 at 20lbs
therefore you gonna need a good cooling IC for these small turbos, core design is very important, not just the size of the core either
personally i think the apr fmic is a waste and sucks on its own, if your gonna do it, go custom, but then again i feel theres no need for a fmic with this kit, i never really experienced heat soak, even with my BF smic on 90+ degree days


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Okay I tried looking back through the thread for install tips but didn't find what I was looking for. What is the easiest way to get this damn turbo on? I'm having a hell of a time, the wastegate keeps getting hungup on the hardlines that go into the firewall. We bolted the manifold up first and tried raising the turbo up from the bottom. Also should I have all the lines hooked up before hand? I was just trying to mock it up and see what lines I could connect to see if I still need any made.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_this is a perfect reason why eurojet are a bunch of no-name has beens....
a intercooler size/thickness matters when dealing with 2 things, size and heat, not just size....
remember a gt28rs producing 20 lbs is going to mkae less heat than a k0420 at 20 lbs.
a t3/4 at 20lbs is gonna be cooler than a k0420 at 20lbs
therefore you gonna need a good cooling IC for these small turbos, core design is very important, not just the size of the core either
personally i think the apr fmic is a waste and sucks on its own, if your gonna do it, go custom, but then again i feel theres no need for a fmic with this kit, i never really experienced heat soak, even with my BF smic on 90+ degree days


Thank you. You're the first person, besides me, who realizes this. This turbo is running hotter than most all turbos out there. Unless you're really pushing a bigger turbo out of it's efficiency range (which most people do not do like we are to these little turbos). I think the better the core I can get on here... the better everything will run. Especially in terms of timing. I'm going to do some intake temp logs this weekend hopefully. What FMIC should I run? I really am considering the EJ Race Core. I know it's probably going to give me some boost loss because of the smaller turbo, but I want COLD intake temps!


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

If you want COLD intake temps you need to try water/meth. Just wait until next week when I post my intake air temps with the water/meth hooked up


----------



## mj6234 (Jan 24, 2002)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_this is a perfect reason why eurojet are a bunch of no-name has beens....
a intercooler size/thickness matters when dealing with 2 things, size and heat, not just size....
remember a gt28rs producing 20 lbs is going to mkae less heat than a k0420 at 20 lbs.
a t3/4 at 20lbs is gonna be cooler than a k0420 at 20lbs
therefore you gonna need a good cooling IC for these small turbos, core design is very important, not just the size of the core either
personally i think the apr fmic is a waste and sucks on its own, if your gonna do it, go custom, but then again i feel theres no need for a fmic with this kit, i never really experienced heat soak, even with my BF smic on 90+ degree days

Maybe cooler, but there is more energy in it because more air is flowing. It is the same as throwing a teaspoon of 200*F water on a piece of metal and seeing how much it is heated vs a cup of 160*F water. Why else do you think people say an intercooler core supports X hp? You think you can run a stock SMIC on your GT35 just because the GT35 comp wheel is more efficient?


----------



## badbidet (Sep 13, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_

Thank you. You're the first person, besides me, who realizes this. This turbo is running hotter than most all turbos out there. Unless you're really pushing a bigger turbo out of it's efficiency range (which most people do not do like we are to these little turbos). I think the better the core I can get on here... the better everything will run. Especially in terms of timing. I'm going to do some intake temp logs this weekend hopefully. What FMIC should I run? I really am considering the EJ Race Core. I know it's probably going to give me some boost loss because of the smaller turbo, but I want COLD intake temps!

The only thing I hear that would be bad about the race core is the larger piping that goers along with it. wonder if race core with street piping would work well?
some modding of piping is on order, but I think it is a concept that agrees with a few of the opinions so far . . .


_Modified by badbidet at 9:07 PM 7-25-2007_


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (badbidet)*

I was just thinking, if you wanted to emulate the stock GTI/1.8T MAF sensor using the TT MAF, couldn't you just figure out what diode would clamp it down to the same voltage? I mean start out with a conservative one and see how much lower the g/sec you get in vagcom and then try another diode. This would be to correct for fueling being too rich. I know my car runs really rich, it's especially bad if you let it part-throttle surge, the pyrometer shoots up much faster than full boost at WOT, it goes through gas like it's a Hummer, and the exhaust gets really loud and raspy with lots of farting when you let off the throttle... Maybe a diode could trick the ecu into thinking it needed to put less fuel? I know the o2's will discover this but wouldn't it still have a limited effect at least?
If the O2's didn't effect it too much, it might also get better milage. The richness isn't helping the pt surging situation, it seems to be somewhat related.










_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 2:54 AM 7-26-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_

Thank you. You're the first person, besides me, who realizes this. This turbo is running hotter than most all turbos out there. Unless you're really pushing a bigger turbo out of it's efficiency range (which most people do not do like we are to these little turbos). I think the better the core I can get on here... the better everything will run. Especially in terms of timing. I'm going to do some intake temp logs this weekend hopefully. What FMIC should I run? I really am considering the EJ Race Core. I know it's probably going to give me some boost loss because of the smaller turbo, but I want COLD intake temps!

youll loose more than that, drivability will be crap too
to be real, you need to have a nice thick core with smaller pipes. see if u can get the race core with regular k03 pipes http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (mj6234)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mj6234* »_
Maybe cooler, but there is more energy in it because more air is flowing. It is the same as throwing a teaspoon of 200*F water on a piece of metal and seeing how much it is heated vs a cup of 160*F water. Why else do you think people say an intercooler core supports X hp? You think you can run a stock SMIC on your GT35 just because the GT35 comp wheel is more efficient?

i dont understand what your trying to say but i think u mis understood me?!
i never said just because somthing is more efficeint you can get away with a small core?!
we did all these kinda test when i worked at PI guys so its not like its a new subject with the k0420


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

My tyrol sport USMIC works just fine for me. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_I was just thinking, if you wanted to emulate the stock GTI/1.8T MAF sensor using the TT MAF, couldn't you just figure out what diode would clamp it down to the same voltage? I mean start out with a conservative one and see how much lower the g/sec you get in vagcom and then try another diode. This would be to correct for fueling being too rich. I know my car runs really rich, it's especially bad if you let it part-throttle surge, the pyrometer shoots up much faster than full boost at WOT, it goes through gas like it's a Hummer, and the exhaust gets really loud and raspy with lots of farting when you let off the throttle... Maybe a diode could trick the ecu into thinking it needed to put less fuel? I know the o2's will discover this but wouldn't it still have a limited effect at least?
If the O2's didn't effect it too much, it might also get better milage. The richness isn't helping the pt surging situation, it seems to be somewhat related.









if your egt shoots up then your lean, not rich
_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 2:54 AM 7-26-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_My tyrol sport USMIC works just fine for me. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif









bf worked great for me too, i belive all these people who think they need a fmic to cool are the ones who have some hw issues to make them run hotter....
bad HW issues lead to bad SW issues


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_You = ghey

apr fmic is fine... stop wasting money on **** you don't need. Get that bitch working right.


http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_this is a perfect reason why eurojet are a bunch of no-name has beens....
a intercooler size/thickness matters when dealing with 2 things, size and heat, not just size....
remember a gt28rs producing 20 lbs is going to mkae less heat than a k0420 at 20 lbs.
a t3/4 at 20lbs is gonna be cooler than a k0420 at 20lbs
therefore you gonna need a good cooling IC for these small turbos, core design is very important, not just the size of the core either
personally i think the apr fmic is a waste and sucks on its own, if your gonna do it, go custom, but then again i feel theres no need for a fmic with this kit, i never really experienced heat soak, even with my BF smic on 90+ degree days

So, elaborate on why the APR one sux and is a waste...


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_If you want COLD intake temps you need to try water/meth. Just wait until next week when I post my intake air temps with the water/meth hooked up









Exactly how you should do it 04VdubGLI http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_i dont understand what your trying to say but i think u mis understood me?!
i never said just because somthing is more efficeint you can get away with a small core?!
we did all these kinda test when i worked at PI guys so its not like its a new subject with the k0420

So, from the tests that you've done, what did you find out


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_I was just thinking, if you wanted to emulate the stock GTI/1.8T MAF sensor using the TT MAF, couldn't you just figure out what diode would clamp it down to the same voltage? I mean start out with a conservative one and see how much lower the g/sec you get in vagcom and then try another diode. This would be to correct for fueling being too rich. I know my car runs really rich, it's especially bad if you let it part-throttle surge, the pyrometer shoots up much faster than full boost at WOT, it goes through gas like it's a Hummer, and the exhaust gets really loud and raspy with lots of farting when you let off the throttle... Maybe a diode could trick the ecu into thinking it needed to put less fuel? I know the o2's will discover this but wouldn't it still have a limited effect at least?
If the O2's didn't effect it too much, it might also get better milage. The richness isn't helping the pt surging situation, it seems to be somewhat related.









_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 2:54 AM 7-26-2007_

Just get a 1.8T sensor in there. It's worked out for me, "charger", and bxmp. Didn't work out so hot for some others though. Apparently it's a random draw. Maybe you need a VR sensor if not?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_Okay I tried looking back through the thread for install tips but didn't find what I was looking for. What is the easiest way to get this damn turbo on? I'm having a hell of a time, the wastegate keeps getting hungup on the hardlines that go into the firewall. We bolted the manifold up first and tried raising the turbo up from the bottom. Also should I have all the lines hooked up before hand? I was just trying to mock it up and see what lines I could connect to see if I still need any made.

DID you push the heater hose out the way? Did you unbolt the hard heater hose from the block above the tranny? Once this line is unbolted it should move up and out and give you the clearance necessary so that the turbo goes right in. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

block-o-wood and a hammer and beat the hell out of that hard coolant line. it will also be in the way of your TIP. i didnt move it on my 1st install and payed for it.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I just did pull ups on mine







It does get in the way of pretty much everything now because of the higher positioning. It's gotta get the beat down... or up if you want to go that way w/it.


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I think I put the top line on top of my TIP and the bottom one underneath. Seemed to be the only way I could get it to fit.


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

I didn't have too much trouble with the hard coolant line, I just used my weight to tug it whichever direction it needed to go, then shoved the TIP down there http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_
DID you push the heater hose out the way? Did you unbolt the hard heater hose from the block above the tranny? Once this line is unbolted it should move up and out and give you the clearance necessary so that the turbo goes right in. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


Cool, I see what you mean. I tried for about 20mins to get it on yesterday but gave up since I had no light and could see. I will give this a shot tomorrow after work. It looks like it will give me enough clearance to drop everything into postion - I hope so cuz I really don't want to disconnect the hardline from the block that looks like a PITA to get at. My TIP comes tomorrow so I may have this thing running by the weekend depending if all my lines work.
Its hard to get things doen when the wife keeps coming into the garage to see what your doing. I've been struggling with replacing a coolant hose for a week







I picked up a MBC to install, that will be the excuse why the car is faster


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_

Cool, I see what you mean. I tried for about 20mins to get it on yesterday but gave up since I had no light and could see. I will give this a shot tomorrow after work. It looks like it will give me enough clearance to drop everything into postion - I hope so cuz I really don't want to disconnect the hardline from the block that looks like a PITA to get at. My TIP comes tomorrow so I may have this thing running by the weekend depending if all my lines work.
*Its hard to get things doen when the wife keeps coming into the garage to see what your doing. I've been struggling with replacing a coolant hose for a week








I picked up a MBC to install, that will be the excuse why the car is faster







*


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

If anyone cares. Seems like my car is pulling less timing than it did the last time. It was 85 degrees and humid today. 3rd gear pulls, My intake air temps. Peaked at 48 degrees C.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

What front mount are you running? Is there any possibility you could give just one run of actual vs. specified boost?


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I have a ATP front mount.
I am getting just a bit of surge when I do these "full" gear pulls. If I run the car out one gear at a time I dont get it quite so much.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_I have a ATP front mount.
I am getting just a bit of surge when I do these "full" gear pulls. If I run the car out one gear at a time I dont get it quite so much. 









This is why GIAC is better. It wants full boost around 3000 rpms. Look at any k04-020 REVO log *mine esp* and you'll see it's looking for full boost around 4000 rpms. Which means I'm overboosting for 1000rpms and stuff is acting weird. Someone figure that one out for me? Also, your boost is lower than on Revo, but it's more consistent looking. GIAC FTW


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

While I fully agree that the specified boost with GIAC is programed much better than with REVO, it appears that no matter which software you choose you're going to have some boost issues either way.
If you look at the actual boost posted in the log above above you'll see a slight hesitation in his boost curve around 3500 RPMs or so, this hesitation looks very similar to a boost log (posted below) I took while using the stock N75 to control boost. If you look closely you'll see the same hesitation at roughly the same RPMs. The only difference between the two actual boost curves is that mine spikes a little higher making the hesitation more obvious.








Now if you look at my current boost log (again posted below) you'll see that my overall boost curve is now much smoother and that peak boost comes on right around 3300 RPMS instead of the requested 4000. This log was taken while using my dual stage MBC without the N75 to control boost. 








In the end I would imagine that the overall boost curve with GIAC software and an MBC would look very similar to my REVO logs, I just thought it was interesting that even with GIAC you still get a slight hesitation in boost between 3000 and 4000 RPMs...


_Modified by 20vTurboGLI at 8:12 PM 7-29-2007_


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

Nick your logs with the mbc looks pretty good. I thought I had set my sample rate higher but it didn't take. Maybe Ill do some more this week if I can. Get a better understanding.
I dont feel any hesitation except for when I do a 2500 rpm 3rd gear roll where I feel some a bit of surge. Its definitely my N75 though. When I switch back and forth between the stock and j valve. Its sweet for a couple of days until the car adapts then it surges just a bit. The J valve seems to hold better boost at redline. I maybe consider a mbc in the near future http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Along with that water injection. I cant have someone in OHIO with a faster KO4-20


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_Nick your logs with the mbc looks pretty good. I thought I had set my sample rate higher but it didn't take. Maybe Ill do some more this week if I can. Get a better understanding.
I dont feel any hesitation except for when I do a 2500 rpm 3rd gear roll where I feel some a bit of surge. Its definitely my N75 though. When I switch back and forth between the stock and j valve. Its sweet for a couple of days until the car adapts then it surges just a bit. The J valve seems to hold better boost at redline. I maybe consider a mbc in the near future http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Along with that water injection. I cant have someone in OHIO with a faster KO4-20









The only thing I wish my car would do is hold peak boost a little longer. It's visibile in the logs and while driving that the car will peak at 21-22 psi hold it for ~200-300 rpms then slowly begin to drop to 17-18 psi by redline. If I could get it to peak 20 around 3500 RPMS and hold it for 1000-1500 RPMS then drop to 17-18 at redline I'd be much happier... But oh well, the car is running great right now, so no complaints. I'm just waiting on the water/meth kit to arrive so I can get it installed, bump my SPS3 Timing setting to 9 then do some logs. I'm hoping I can run Timing 9 + a degree or two of advance in lemmiwinks but we'll see. I'll have to wait and see how much cooling the water/meth can do








Oh and no worries about me being faster man, my turbo is the K04-023. You'll still have the fastest K04-020 in OH


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

Mine might be a -023 I dont really know what the difference is. Whatever the PI kit is








I think you'll be able to run a good amount of timing. The last time I ran logs, when it was super hot and humid and I heat soaked a little bit I was pulling 9 degrees of timing. When I had my race gas in I was pulling zero degrees. I hope the water/meth is as affective


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_Mine might be a -023 I dont really know what the difference is. Whatever the PI kit is








I think you'll be able to run a good amount of timing. The last time I ran logs, when it was super hot and humid and I heat soaked a little bit I was pulling 9 degrees of timing. When I had my race gas in I was pulling zero degrees. I hope the water/meth is as affective









I'm pretty sure PI uses the K04-020 since it doesn't have an EGT probe from the factory. 
I also feel I'll be able to run a lot of timing. Heck, right now on pump gas I'm running timing 6 and seeing no more than 8* of pull. I think timing 9 + 2-3 degrees on water/meth isn't out of the question at all http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I have an old SPS3 and I can't run more than timing 3/4 max without pulling more than 9*. There REALLY must be a big difference in programming from the old to the new. Also, I only run boost of 5 (HB).


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

loudgli looks like u got a boost leak


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## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
This is why GIAC is better. It wants full boost around 3000 rpms. Look at any k04-020 REVO log *mine esp* and you'll see it's looking for full boost around 4000 rpms. Which means I'm overboosting for 1000rpms and stuff is acting weird

yea i assumed that much with my revo. the boost just hit way too quick and hard at 4000 rpms to be hardware related. i never logged any requested boost. giac just didnt make sw for the AWW


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

that kid with the gli had giac and he had nothing but probs with his sw setup too btw, so dont jump on the giac bandwagen just yet


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## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_loudgli looks like u got a boost leak

Because of the ups and downs in the higher rpm's?
If so, Im almost certain its related to the N75 setup. As I posted earlier it wont do it, if I swap the N75's back and forth. Then the car starts to adapt for "some stupid reason" and it starts to surge a bit. It also doesn't seem to do it as much if I run out each gear rather than do a long pull.
Ill run some more logs soon and compare.


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

Not cause of that, pressure test it and i bet u 100 bux u got a leak


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## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

well I got fed up trying to fit some of the stock k03 lines on the k04 so I ordered the whole oil and water kit from PI. Looks like my install will take a few more days


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## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_Not cause of that, pressure test it and i bet u 100 bux u got a leak

So I took your advice and spend a couple hours in the garage tonight.
Found two small leaks. One intercooler coupler leak and my boost gauge line was leaking a bit. I created enough pressure to break the seal on the valver cover cap. I must have pushed some oil somewhere where it didn't belong because the car smoked like a train when I fired it up. I drove around a bit and it seems to have subsided for the most part. I hope everything is cool








Anyway while driving around with "fixed" leaks. I spiked about 2lbs higher and am holding maybe a extra lb. at redline. So its good I guess. Ill try and run another log maybe this weekend. 
And no I wasn't putting the amount of pressure shown on the guage into the car. Its just the line pressure. I was seeing close to 30lbs


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_well I got fed up trying to fit some of the stock k03 lines on the k04 so I ordered the whole oil and water kit from PI. Looks like my install will take a few more days

Haha, have fun waiting for those parts... http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif to PI's service


----------



## lax1492 (Jan 19, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I have held my tongue a while about commenting on PI’s service / kit. I want to preface this by saying my comments are not directed at one person but are directed to the whole group. And after all the stuff I have done to my car from going ko3 to k04-20 then from an automatic to a 5 speed and all the software in between. There is one thing I learned. These cars all act differently and putting different pieces together don’t always have the end result that one had planned.
We as consumers seem to have a sense of entitlement and we as Americans expect instant gratification. Unfortunately life does not work that way in all cases. Especially in the aftermarket world.
As im sure most of you guys work, let me relate this to a work situation. If you have a co-worker who does good work but tends to be overwhelmed with work, instead of sitting back and saying man my coworker works till 10pm every night sucks for him but why didn’t he email something. Understand that things fall through the cracks. How about take the initiative and remind him. You have all been in the situation where you have a rush job and forget / put something on the back burner. In this case shoot a call over to PI as a reminder. Get over the “entitlement”, if you have a problem hound the person until its fixed. 
Might be hard to believe but its not always the software that’s the issue. It’s the easiest thing to blame hands down. But from boost leaks to hardware that probably does not belong in the car there is a lot more to consider. We can all agree that playing with newer cars are not the simplest thing in the world. Now a days its not always as simple as looking in the engine bay and figuring out what’s wrong in a minute.
To the people who are trying to find work arounds and have not contacted PI but then come on here and get all pissed off what do you hope to accomplish ? Work with PI and give PI what they need to help you. When I had this kit on my car when it was an automatic there was definitely a software issue. Revo went back with PI and fixed the issue. It took a few months but the problem was solved. There was no way in the world I would have switched over to GAIC or some other software after I paid for the stage 1 then 2 then their “bt” software and a SPS3. They had to fix it there was no alternative.
Understand that my experience is from someone who is local to the shop. I stop in with no appointments and have them look at my car. I know for a few of you, you can’t do that. So yes the time things get worked on/ worked out does take a bit longer. But if you don’t like what’s going on, speak up and call them, again and again and again until your happy.
The reason I wrote this is I think PI is getting a bad wrap when I know they are nothing like EIP. Im not really looking for any responses to my post. . But I do hope people take a minute, stop sitting back pointing fingers and hope that by pointing a finger things will get fixed. 
Just like anything else in the real world, if there is a problem, get together with the person/organization and work together to get the job done………………


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (lax1492)*

When I first bought the kit bout 2 years ago, I did the install myself and I would call PAT and DAN at 8am every morning for like a week str8. They had no problems helping me out till I got it right. If worse comes to worse with whoever is having problems with the kit just drive to MD. I live in NY and I would have no problems driving to MD if it was to get my car running right. I too blamed the SW for lil problems I was having. It was not the SW at all it was stupid lil things one seems to overlook. The main problem I was having with the kit was cold start issues. I was quick to blame the SW. Guess what? It was not the SW at all. It was that my injectors were not seated correctly in the intake manifold, my PCV had a leak, some of the OEM ear clamps were all loose. Now that I have taken care of all these little issues my car is running as close to perfect as possible. So like lax1492 said complaining on here is not gonna help your car run better. You have to keep calling PI. They open at 8am so if you call at 8am when they are just getting in i am sure they will help out. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

I'm not upset with the service I got from PI. Everytime I called they were very courteous (sp?)and helpful. I was frustrated that their website went down the day before I wanted to order parts from them. (bad timing I know, but I'm still very disappointed in their new website...) So since the website was down, I had to call and place my order which wasn't a huge deal but definitely wasn't as convienent as ordering on line. In the end, it took two weeks to get my oil return line and install hardware and over a month and a half for me to get the downpipe adapter for the K04 (they were on backorder). I understand the back order and what not, but I was upset that PI didn't call me with any updates at all. I had to keep calling them weekly to find out when I could expect the part. Lastly I was upset with the fitment of the adapter. Once it arrived I installed the kit and found that the downpipe was hitting the firewall. I had to have the adapter modified by a local exhaust shop to fit properly because there was no way I was going to deal with shipping it back and waiting on a new one...


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## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

Yo,
so after fixing my small boost leaks last night, the car runs noticeable better. I had been experiencing low boost/off throttle dv flutter. For some reason or another fixing the leaks solved this issue. I now get a nice smooth whoosh regardless of boost/load.
Hurrayyyy beer! ....I mean hurray no boost leaks.

Oh and Nick...I ordered a w/m meth kit today from BSH ..watch out!


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_Yo,
so after fixing my small boost leaks last night, the car runs noticeable better. I had been experiencing low boost/off throttle dv flutter. For some reason or another fixing the leaks solved this issue. I now get a nice smooth whoosh regardless of boost/load.
Hurrayyyy beer! ....I mean hurray no boost leaks.

Oh and Nick...I ordered a w/m meth kit today from BSH ..watch out!

Haha awesome man, we should definitely try to get together sometime after you get it installed and tuned (I could even help you add some timing with lemmiwinks and do some logs with vag com if you want). Heck, maybe we could both hit the dyno sometime or try to get in a few runs on the highway. Then we'll know which one is truly better, REVO or GIAC








Oh and thanks to you man, I'm now going to do a pressure test for boost leaks before I install my w/m kit. The car is running great right now, but I'm still curious if I have any leaks and what they may be affecting...
My Snow Performance water/meth kit arrived today and hopefully I'll get it in the car by the beginning of next week (I'm heading out of town this weekend







). I want to get the kit installed and try it with my own mixture of water/meth (using washer fluid, heet and distilled water) then I want to try it with the Snow Performance Boost Juice. I want to see if I can feel any difference or see it in my timing logs








Stayed tuned for updates http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 20vTurboGLI at 1:53 AM 8-1-2007_


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Boost leaks are part of what got my car running better. I'll be honest, I always complain about my car not running well and stuff, but I think that when it gets down to it, it's probably running pretty close to 240whp - which is running how PI says it should. It really feels flat up top, but that could still be a small leak or something. I can definitely say the torque has to be up there, it's different now because I can definitely get some pretty good tire spin in the upper rpms of 2nd. If I really tried I could probably get them spinning and carry it throught to 3rd even.
I'm going to pressure test mine again and do it a little differently this time. I also am going to try to find some sort of vac test besides spraying stuff on connections. Jeremy also gave me some ideas about my SPS3 settings that seem to make sense. I really don't think they're transferable though because from everything I've experienced thus far, ols SPS3 settings just aren't even close to new SPS3 settings. That being said, I think the old SPS3 is a good bit more aggressive when you do settings as well.


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## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Well Im no genius but, I believe this looks better than the last graph I had(pre boost leak fix). Conditions were similar tonight to the other night. Except for the fact that I had just got home from a 45 min ride home. Lets just say I ran a timing log and the car pulled more timing than I have ever seen...I mean ALOT







But like I said the car was hot and the temp was 85 and 100% humidity.
Anyway here you go.
Oh by the way, I cant get Vagcom to raise my sample rate, I am only getting like 8 or so samples. I changed that number in the options to 25 from 55 and the 1 to a zero. Any Advice?


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I did another boost log today... and my boost still looks like poop. Guess it's time to do another pressure test. Guess it's possible I'm still leaking somewhere and that's causing the issue. I'm now on HB 3. The SW is still requesting 23psi from 4000-4200 rpms til pretty much redline. The car is dropping off early and holding like 16.9 psi @ redline. That's a pretty big difference IMO. Can't be good. And it's still overboosting before 4000 rpms.


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

So 04VDub was right about that MAF sensor, the stock one does move the part throttle problem from exactly 0psi to exactly 7psi. It's much less noticable at 7psi, at least it doesn't happen all the time. I was having to always keep the boost up above 10psi whenever I used boost at all. I could either stay in vacuum or else I had to boost up to 10psi or more to prevent surging. Now it seems that I can go up to 7psi and then it only surges from 7 to 10psi instead of 0 to 10psi. It's a very consistent problem, with either MAF sensor it always happens in the same, reproducable spot. At least it's drivable now.







to 04VDub for being so insistant that I try it.


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## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

Can anyone shed some light on my situation. I have a k04-22 turbo, will I need to reclock the turbo? I can't seem to get the oil feed line to fit, Its so close but i can never get it to thread down into the whole, it seems like its just barely hitting the compressor housing. Pat @ PI was saying that I may need to plug that feed line and use the other on the back of the turbo (its currently plugged from the factory) but if I do that there is no way the stock feed will fit in unless I totally reclock the turbo. Does that make any sense? Please help


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*

Gotta bend down the heater lines. don't worry, just bend em however you can. Bend them below the turbo inlet so that you can fit the TIP above them. I got stuck on that one for a while too. I got under the car and pulled down on them immediately after my friend heated them up with a blow torch, though I'm not sure it made it that much easier and we both didn't think about the hot water we cooked that would be coming out of the then down-facing pipe.

















_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 7:37 AM 8-2-2007_


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

I've been talking with unitronic about their sw, apparently they have a k04-020 file they developed in greece on a golf 1.8t. Anyone running this file?


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## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_Gotta bend down the heater lines. don't worry, just bend em however you can. Bend them below the turbo inlet so that you can fit the TIP above them. I got stuck on that one for a while too. I got under the car and pulled down on them immediately after my friend heated them up with a blow torch, though I'm not sure it made it that much easier and we both didn't think about the hot water we cooked that would be coming out of the then down-facing pipe.
















_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 7:37 AM 8-2-2007_

I got the turbo to clear the heater hoses but for some reason I can't slip the oil feed into the turbo. Its not just me I had 2 other people try over the course of 3 hrs the other night. I was thinking that because mine is a -22 that I may need to clock it since PI installs the -20.


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*

I'm getting 130-135mbar at the MAF at idle, is that about correct or is it a lot lower than normal? I also get 990mbar at the MAP when requested is 1010 at idle - is that just because of altitude?


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*

To get the oil feed on, you have to be very patient. Absolute best option is to cut the center out and just use the two end pieces along with some regular oil feed hoses, such as aeroquip socketless hose to replace the center section. The problem is because the stock hose cannot twist and it's at slightly the wrong angle. Second best option:
1. disconnect the oil feed from the oil filter housing
2. connect the line to the turbo but don't bolt it to the manifold yet (have someone hold it suspended just below the mani)
3. re-connect it to the oil filter housing
4. bolt the turbo onto the manifold
on step #3, you *must* screw the banjo bolt in almost completely *by hand*, finish it up with a ratchet but do *not* try to screw it in with tools because the housing is *soft* aluminium, like a soda can - you could strip the threads just by starting it crooked one time, cause once it's had even one thread stripped, it will never go in correctly. I went through *3* oil filter housings before my turbo was mounted and not leaking. The oil filter housings are about $180 from the dealer. I bought two used ones that I stripped and then I couldn't find a third so I had to buy it at the dealer and that's the one I got right.
I cried and threw temper tantrums like a baby, during this part of the install.
Be patient and have someone strong enough to suspend the turbo for a few minutes to hold it for you. You can't have it connected to the oil filter housing and expect to be able to twist it and get it onto the turbo easily. Maybe eventually you could do it, I got lucky one time but I had forgot to put the crush washer on the banjo bolt first.


















_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 9:15 AM 8-2-2007_


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

Easiest way is to unbolt the feed line from the oil filter housing first be4 trying to install it on the turbo. You have to bring the turbo towards the heater hoses while installin the oil feed line. That is why i unbolted the hardline from the block so I can have all that room to play with. You don't have to bolt it back into the block you can leave it out. I told you this would be the hardest part of the install. And make sure to have both washers in there cause if you dont it will leak oil. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 3:18 PM 8-2-2007_


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

It's really important that he bolt it back onto the oil filter housing before he bolts the turbo on, otherwise the line will not easily allow the banjo bolt to go in streight, it's almost as difficult as trying to get it onto the turbo with it bolted to the housing. It has to be bolted to both before the turbo is bolted to the manifold. Or that's the easiest way other than changing the center of the line for a more flexible one. I know for sure this is the easiest way cause I tried every variation and this one gets it done in under 5 minutes with no difficulties at all as long as you follow it to the tee.










_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 12:25 PM 8-2-2007_


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Just run the water lines and plug the oil lines. You'll be good to go.


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

I think he should do what I did and make a custom oil feed line


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

Yeah that's definitely #1


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

So... here's an interesting turn of events. I did some more logging tonight w/my car. Turns out my AFR actual vs. requested is pretty good, but that my car is ADDING 20%. I assume this is because of the g/s reading from the MAF. So.. what I'm trying to say is that PI must have had this written for a VR MAF, but when I ran that it was 10+% rich. So... is there anything in between? I mean, besides the fact it's adding 20% extra fuel to compensate, the AFR is pretty good. I'm going to try to come up w/solutions to remedy that huge gap though. So if anyone can explain why the 1.8T sensor = the best for partial throttle and the better "adapted" fueling as well. But what it doesn't have is a proper g/s reading. So from what I can assume, a 1.8T sensor is about 20% low on g/s reading and the VR sensor is about 10%+ high. My VR read 250... so we'll call that around 225 g/s. My 1.8T reads 190... so corrected we'll call that 228 g/s. Anyone follow where I'm going w/that? Neither sensor is right. And really they're both fueling for that flow rate. I mean, that's just a theory I'm having right now, but it seems to me something is definitely up w/SW. Moreso than ever?


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Isn't it possible to fix the AFR with lemmiwinks? Another option is to get a Split Second Air/fuel Ratio Calibrator:
http://www.splitsec.com/products/arc1/arc1ds.htm
or
http://www.splitsec.com/products/psc1/PSC1003.htm


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## jrj32789 (Feb 13, 2006)

does anyone know exactly what else I will need to complete this kit? I currently have the turbo, exhaust manifold, lines, hardware/gaskets, TIP, 4bar fpr, 380 injectors, and will get a dp once its on the car. I heard something about a 45degree silicone bend for the IC piping. Does anyone know what size it is or where the bend is for? I know I also need a reducer silicone piece for the tt maf to intake. any other input would be greatly appreciated. 
Thanks 
John.


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (jrj32789)*

Here's the hose, the red one in this pic (click to zoom):

Can you take a pic of everything you have and post it or IM it? My AIM is harpicjr.
The silicone you are looking for is a turbo inlet hose, or TIP or TIH. You need the TT version. The APR one is the worst, I had it. All the others are pretty much the same but I would buy the Forge if I were you. Forge also makes a silicone version of that red hose in the picture. I used to have the Audi one (that pic is my engine bay) but I sold it and bought the Forge one, I would say the Forge is much better.


You'll need to get the Pro Imports Up-Pipe in order for a turbo-back to connect to this turbo, otherwise you'll have very limited choices in terms of exhaust systems. Best to get the pipe, though they totally rip people off with what they charge for it (~$200 for two welds, 1ft of pipe, and two standard sized flanges).









_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 8:29 PM 8-3-2007_


_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 8:31 PM 8-3-2007_


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## jrj32789 (Feb 13, 2006)

I have the TT225 TIP from Forge already, It's just the elbow piece i think i need. What size is it? And I can get it from forge? And I'm having a new downpipe made from DEVO tuning.


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

PI uppipe is $250+ I believe. 
Also, there is no reason to need a reducer from the MAF housing to TIP. They're both 3".


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_So... here's an interesting turn of events. I did some more logging tonight w/my car. Turns out my AFR actual vs. requested is pretty good, but that my car is ADDING 20%. I assume this is because of the g/s reading from the MAF. So.. what I'm trying to say is that PI must have had this written for a VR MAF, but when I ran that it was 10+% rich. So... is there anything in between? I mean, besides the fact it's adding 20% extra fuel to compensate, the AFR is pretty good. I'm going to try to come up w/solutions to remedy that huge gap though. So if anyone can explain why the 1.8T sensor = the best for partial throttle and the better "adapted" fueling as well. But what it doesn't have is a proper g/s reading. So from what I can assume, a 1.8T sensor is about 20% low on g/s reading and the VR sensor is about 10%+ high. My VR read 250... so we'll call that around 225 g/s. My 1.8T reads 190... so corrected we'll call that 228 g/s. Anyone follow where I'm going w/that? Neither sensor is right. And really they're both fueling for that flow rate. I mean, that's just a theory I'm having right now, but it seems to me something is definitely up w/SW. Moreso than ever?

Does anyone know what rate some of the other MAF's are? Like a 2.0FSI, do they use the same MAF's? How about 2.slow's? Maybe the 210HP K04 euro motors have a MAF in between? Or Passat 1.8t's?
Also, can someone technical have a look at the Split Second stuff because that looks like it could be very useful for tuning A/F to be perfect. I mean if you have a wideband, the SS will allow you to tweak the MAF readings based on things like RPM, so when the RPM's are at part throttle, we can take the readings down to stock MAF levels, then as the RPM's rise, we can raise the MAF readings back up to TT225 MAF level. I really think this could work perfectly, I just don't know if it's compatible or which one is the correct voltage range for our type of MAF.










_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 11:27 PM 8-3-2007_


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

It seems like Split Second's ARC1 ($210-330 depending on options) is the right one, on their site:
"It is especially useful for re-calibration of modified engines. The alteration or addition of turbochargers, superchargers, intake manifolds, fuel injectors, fuel regulators, throttle bodies, intake plenums, Mass Air Flow (MAF) or Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensors can alter the A/F ratio calibration. The ARC1 gives the user a convenient way to set the A/F ratio for rich, lean or stoichiometric operation over the entire RPM and load range."
The ARC2 (~$450) is definitely better, though it may not be necessary to have all the functionality it has... their site says:
"One application for the ARC2-NE is conversion to a larger, less restrictive MAF sensor."
I don't see how else we can adjust the MAF to be exactly where it is supposed to be, other than getting other SW. I mean I haven't even been able to log yet, but I can tell you for sure that the stock MAF is great for low end and part throttle (car runs *silent*, like it's not even turned on a lot of the time, so quiet I didn't know my 3" exhaust could possibly be so!) - but at WOT, it sucks. The TT MAF is *WAY* better at WOT, but it's *TERRIBLE* at part throttle and the car sounds like an old Chevy or Ford V8 a lot of the time with the TT MAF.
I think the stock MAF is just getting maxed out at WOT and perhaps the car thinks it's over-boosting so it lowers boost. That would make sense since the MAP would be reading more than the MAF once the MAF flat-lined. So when the MAF flat-lines, the N75 does too. I think the only way to fix that is to adjust the MAF signal.
That said, I don't think we can use the stock MAF to do it, because it won't give us any range to work with once it's maxed-out. The TT and VR MAF's seem like they just need to be calibrated to return stock-like readings at lower load/rpm. I think maybe those sensors were built to not be super accurate below a certain point, because the engines they were built for would always be above that, especially the VR6.
Just theories but definitely we need the best of both worlds and I can't see any way besides either fixing the SW or getting an A/F calibrator like the Split Second ones. I'm pretty sure we'll be able to gain some improvement with the calibrator. I think Split Second is located near me, I'll call them on Monday and see what they say, perhaps they can build a solution using my car for testing.










_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 12:07 AM 8-4-2007_


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

This is a how-to on another Split Second product that may be able to help us:
http://www.gadgetonline.com/U-Tune.pdf


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

Still working to try to figure out how to make it perform well with the stock MAF. Apparently the boost setting in lemmiwinks effects boost differently than the SPS3 does. So if you turn it down in lemmiwinks and up on the sps3, boost comes on more gradually. I think lemmiwinks takes the boost down across the boards and the SPS3 turns boost up on a curve, or vice-versa. I'm trying different settings to see if it helps at all.
I also set the increasing loads to 130% and decreasing loads to 75%. This seems to have helped a lot with the backfiring, car is smooth as silk all the time now. I just miss the WOT performance I had with the TT MAF.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Tomorrow I'm calling Chris @ Revo again and we're going to discuss all of my logs and stuff w/the engineers @ Revo and possibly PI. I'm working on getting something done.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Tomorrow I'm calling Chris @ Revo again and we're going to discuss all of my logs and stuff w/the engineers @ Revo and possibly PI. I'm working on getting something done.

I think we could potentially put down more power if these problems were fixed because I know with my car, when it does the surging at part throttle, it gets much hotter much faster and after a while it gets heat soaked. When I first get going in the morning, after the car has warmed up, performance is amazing (with the TT MAF), and it stays great as long as you stay out of part throttle. So hopefully if they can fix it, then it'll be great all the time.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_
I think we could potentially put down more power if these problems were fixed because I know with my car, when it does the surging at part throttle, it gets much hotter much faster and after a while it gets heat soaked. When I first get going in the morning, after the car has warmed up, performance is amazing (with the TT MAF), and it stays great as long as you stay out of part throttle. So hopefully if they can fix it, then it'll be great all the time.









Frankly, and I'm a little slow to say this without any further backing, but I'm guessing I'm right around k04-001 performance. I need to find someone locally w/one and find out. But the only guy I know of got rid of his b/c it was having a TON of issues. Oddly enough, he was boosting higher than me and holding a higher pressure longer. So I don't know why my car doesn't like boosting up top.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

good luck on getting revo to help, i doubt they will at all, i am sure they will go through the motions and say they will but proof is in the puddin!
call PI they should be able to help you out, there all great there!


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Frankly, and I'm a little slow to say this without any further backing, but I'm guessing I'm right around k04-001 performance. I need to find someone locally w/one and find out. But the only guy I know of got rid of his b/c it was having a TON of issues. Oddly enough, he was boosting higher than me and holding a higher pressure longer. So I don't know why my car doesn't like boosting up top.

Yeah, that's a good comparison. With the stock MAF, I get K04-001 performance. I had a K04-001 less than a year ago so I know, and I can tell you it's exactly the same. Totally flat torque from start to finish. With the TT MAF it's a whole different story.


----------



## hsjoe (Mar 28, 2005)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

What can I expect for HP with a BAM with a Ko4 023 on a SDS set up? Its going in a Corrado with a rebuilt trans, lsd, for my swap. Any tips for tuning would be great http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (hsjoe)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hsjoe* »_What can I expect for HP with a BAM with a Ko4 023 on a SDS set up? Its going in a Corrado with a rebuilt trans, lsd, for my swap. Any tips for tuning would be great http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Well, chances are you'll make anywhere from 225whp to 250whp. Typically, BAM isn't going to be worth much. Honestly, I don't see how it doesn't kill fueling by increasing the MAF housing size seeing as the software/sensors are written for a specific sized housing. So realistically, the BAM isn't going to do anything for anyone. I guess hypothetically if you're doing a custom standalone it could be tuned in such a fashion as to account for the difference in the air reading from the MAF, but really... I think it's a kind of a waste. The trans and lsd aren't going to help w/power obviously, but I think they'll help you get the power to the ground. My car loves to one wheel peel through turns.


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (double0vr6)*

Wow this heat has been unbearable. I finally got the everything bolted up. Getting the right angle on the oil feed into the turbo and block was a major PITA. Tomorrow or friday I will work on installing the TIP, that looks like it will be fun to, hopefully I bent the heater hoses enough for clearance. The only other real problem I see is connecting the damn thing to my Eurojet FMIC. There is no way my top intercooler piece will fit on the turbo w/o some major cutting. I guess I'll have to sift through 55 pages of threads to find some pics of what you guys did


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

slojti did it with his greddy 31 and had alot of fabing done


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (hsjoe)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hsjoe* »_What can I expect for HP with a BAM with a Ko4 023 on a SDS set up? Its going in a Corrado with a rebuilt trans, lsd, for my swap. Any tips for tuning would be great http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


on a sds setup you could make great power with this kit, i have seen a k0420 1.8 16v mk2 make 310 wheel and 298wtq at 21lbs on dta-pro a good tuner on stand alone can squeeze out some good power, dont expect more than that though


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_

on a sds setup you could make great power with this kit, i have seen a k0420 1.8 16v mk2 make 310 wheel and 298wtq at 21lbs on dta-pro a good tuner on stand alone can squeeze out some good power, dont expect more than that though


How is it possible that there is that much potential that we're just missing?


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_ The only other real problem I see is connecting the damn thing to my Eurojet FMIC. There is no way my top intercooler piece will fit on the turbo w/o some major cutting. I guess I'll have to sift through 55 pages of threads to find some pics of what you guys did









You might need a 45* silicone connector or cut the piece and get a 2.25" reducer to what ever your IC piping is. Greddy happens to be a 2" so I got a 2 - 2.25"


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

I had to use a 45* silicone coupler to connect my Eurojet to the K04-023. I got mine on ebay and it works great http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

my ebay one just blew the eff up... big ol hole in it... I guess running 20psi is too much for the ebay thing... haha


----------



## hsjoe (Mar 28, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Great info, but I'm lost at the MAF size thing. Are you saying its too big for this eng with the sensor thats stock? This motor came out of a S3 so if you guys forsee me having any issues with a sensor or another part restricting its performance let me know. 310 at the wheels is great but for now I was just hoping for around 275 daily driving. How does this turbo compare to a gt28rs upgrade. I know from a ko3s its a big difference, but to notice anything do I need to go above the gt28r in the future? thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

umm to the poster above.
s3=ko4-20


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (hsjoe)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hsjoe* »_Great info, but I'm lost at the MAF size thing. Are you saying its too big for this eng with the sensor thats stock? This motor came out of a S3 so if you guys forsee me having any issues with a sensor or another part restricting its performance let me know. 310 at the wheels is great but for now I was just hoping for around 275 daily driving. How does this turbo compare to a gt28rs upgrade. I know from a ko3s its a big difference, but to notice anything do I need to go above the gt28r in the future? thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Um yea if you got a complete S3 motor it should have come stock with a k04-20 series turbo. And you should see much more power than us because an S3 motor is stronger. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
How is it possible that there is that much potential that we're just missing?


*standalone*
a perfect tune


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_*standalone*
a perfect tune

that's really not the answer...a good tune is fine for these cars, unfortunately it seems that REVO *isn't* it


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## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_I had to use a 45* silicone coupler to connect my Eurojet to the K04-023. I got mine on ebay and it works great http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


is that a 2.25" to 2" 45* or do you know what the size is? I'd like to order it while I'm at work.


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*

okay 2" to 2" ID 45* elbow is what I need.

Did anyone have trouble connecting the water feed to the factory coolant line in the engine bay? The PI line has a smaller diameter than the factory line that I removed. Were you guys able to force it on or did you jimmy rig it?


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## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_okay 2" to 2" ID 45* elbow is what I need.

Did anyone have trouble connecting the water feed to the factory coolant line in the engine bay? The PI line has a smaller diameter than the factory line that I removed. Were you guys able to force it on or did you jimmy rig it?

did not have problems, mine was cut so i put a brass barb in it.
And The 2" to 2" ID might work... depending on how many ply the silicone is and if it will stretch around. I found that the 2.25 - 2" fit fine.


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## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_
did not have problems, mine was cut so i put a brass barb in it.
And The 2" to 2" ID might work... depending on how many ply the silicone is and if it will stretch around. I found that the 2.25 - 2" fit fine. 

Where can I buy that? All I can find is 2" even


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## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*

http://www.siliconeintakes.com
specifically this:
http://www.siliconeintakes.com...55674


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## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I got one ordered should be here tomorrow. Another question... on the PI oil line did anyone notice how small the inlet/outlet are? They are almost 1/2 the size of the OEM return hose. I would think this would be a little restrictive.


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## hsjoe (Mar 28, 2005)

*Re: (beachball6)*

umm well it came from a S3, and it says Ko4 023 on the turbo. Not a vw expert, but I can read pretty well. Thanks for the constructive comment http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (hsjoe)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hsjoe* »_umm well it came from a S3, and it says Ko4 023 on the turbo. Not a vw expert, but I can read pretty well. Thanks for the constructive comment http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

If it is in fact a K04-023 then you'll need to find a plug for the OEM EGT sensor hole...


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## hsjoe (Mar 28, 2005)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

egt sensor? and whats the difference 020 to 023?


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

04VDubGLI,
To give you an idea about ambient temps versus intake air temps I did some logs last night and the temp outside was 77* F. With my water/meth kit on I was seeing intake air temps of right around 24*-26* C (which if my math is correct is right around 75*-78* F)
So, in other words, with my Eurojet FMIC and the water/meth kit hooked up, I'm seeing intake air temps almost identical to ambient temps. I'll have to do some more logs without the water/meth kit hooked up to see how much of a difference it makes in the temps. I'm guessing that without it I'll see intake air temps closer to 32*-34* C. From what I've seen so far the water/meth seems to be good for about 10* C of cooling http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
For your IAT log... was that just 1 gear? What gear? What was the ambient air temp? Sorry... I'm just trying to figure out where I'm at. Also, what sort of boost are you seeing up top? I did a few gears like 2-4 and my IAT got up to like 140*F (58*C) by the end. It was 80*F outside. They seemed to be right around 95*F (35-36*C) just cruising around 40-50mph. PI told me I'm not getting as much boost as I should up top due to my IAT being too high.
They ignored the question of why the full boost isn't requested until 4000 rpms. 

No my IAT log was a full pull in 3rd. The outside temp was in the mid 80's with a good amount of humidity. My boost didn't change much with the kit. Im holding not quite 20 at redline give or take about 1psi. That temp seems awful high. Before w/m on 3rd gear pulls I was seeing about 50*C at redline on hot hot days. Now you can see Im around 33-36*C on a 3rd gear pulls.


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## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

Finally got the car running. I have a few questions
K04-2x
k03s GIAC X+ software
Stock Injectors+FPR
PI adapter to stock downpipe
3" TT
Ebay TT TIP
My boost is building slowly. I'm getting roughly 8 PSI @ 3000 RPM and 18-19 PSI @ 3900 RPM and holding 15 PSI @ 6500 RPM. Did anyone else run this setup on k03 software first while using a 3" MAF and experience similiar effects? Could it be from the TT MAF throwing the computer off or do you guys think its a boost leak (I don't hear anything).
Also the turbo spool sound is fairly quiet. I don't have an intake on just open MAF at the moment but it sounds very quiet compared to my K03s


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## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (loudgli)*

Does anybody run block 011 and understand what it means. I guess the more overall timing the more power but how does it compare to timing pull?


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## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (loudgli)*

I'm not really an expert but the more timing advace the better (generally speaking- good A/F etc). I think 20 degrees is right where you want to be, that means the knock sensors and the ECM is happy. I think once you start getting up past 20 you are starting to push the timing threshold and you want to back it down via lemiwinks or whatever.


_Modified by TooLFan46n2 at 6:50 PM 8-13-2007_


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## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_

You need some 380's in there ASAP. I have some white top 380's that I used for about 4 months. I can sacrifice fairly cheap if interested. I believe loudgli ran k03s sw for a few weeks. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Stock injectors and 3inch MAF's don't mix well. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 

Okay I have them and the 4 bar FPR should I put everything in now? I was just gonna run the stock fueling until I got reflashed in a week. Will the car drive ok with the 4bar and injectors? I figured since I had no CE light the 3" MAF was throwing the ECM off to much


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_
Okay I have them and the 4 bar FPR should I put everything in now? I was just gonna run the stock fueling until I got reflashed in a week. Will the car drive ok with the 4bar and injectors?

Throw them on there with the 3 bar for now. WHen are you getting flashed? GIAC X with some lemimwinks tuning should work just fine. Some people have gotten away with it on BIGGER turbos so it should be fine on this lil thing. But, yeah you should throw them 380's in. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif You def.need a 3 inch DP as well. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 6:55 PM 8-13-2007_


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## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_
Throw them on there with the 3 bar for now. WHen are you getting flashed? GIAC X with some lemimwinks tuning should work just fine. Some people have gotten away with it on BIGGER turbos so it should be fine on this lil thing. But, yeah you should throw them 380's in. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Alright I'll drop em in probably tomorrow. I want to get flashed this week as long as work will let me leave early 1 day, if not it will be next week. I tried to make an appointment today but the guy at AWE TUning told me $500 to upgrade software







What did other people pay I called another shop farther away and they said $200.
Yeah I know about the DP I've been on a budget







I'm not quite ready for a CEL either because GIAC doesn't have any cat delete software. I'll have a dyno or 3" dp on in 2 weeks, right now I'm leaning towards the dyno. The DP is going to be a squeeze on the wallet.

_Modified by TooLFan46n2 at 6:59 PM 8-13-2007_


_Modified by TooLFan46n2 at 7:00 PM 8-13-2007_


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## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*

You guys are gonna get tired of me posting graphs








This was tonight with a temp in the mid 70's. You can tell my IAT temps are deffinately lower than before.


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## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

I hit full boost at 3800RPM too. What software you running? REVO?


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

With REVO it all depends on how you're controlling your boost...
With the stock N75 valve controlling boost I didn't hit full boost until 3800-4000 (which is what the ECU calls for, if you don't beleive me flip back a few pages and check out some of my logs and 04vdubGLI's logs)
But now, with my dual stage MBC in high boost (22-24 psi) I hit full boost by 3200-3400 RPMS. Thus, I would reccommend anyone with REVO K04-02x software to ditch the N75 valve and let a MBC control the boost


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## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_I hit full boost at 3800RPM too. What software you running? REVO?

I ran GIAC, which was (form what I gather from reading other's posts) a pretty aggresssive file.
Hence, the unbeatable over a year later 13.24 ET on pump gas


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (bmxp)*

I was going to try to say last night basically that I've learned a ton because I went back to the VR sensor a couple of days ago.
Neither sensor is working properly for me. The reason I figure this is occuring is that the load table in the programming (or something in the programming) must be based off of MAF reads and g/s. Since I get a full 60g/s seperation between my MAF sensor the issue lies in that when I run the VR I have no partial because it's reading so high that the car is thinking that I'm requesting more power than I really am. I.E. MAF readings say this so this much power is being requested. The 1.8T sensor works for partial because it's too low - so same idea, just low. The VR sensor actually felt slower in my car when I had it in the other day. However, it was -10% adaptation as it always is for me. And the 1.8T still holds @ 20% adaptation. So neither sensor is anywhere near correct. Somehow PI says some cars run better with one than the other. That's a joke. They're night and day differences IMO. I did try talking to them on the phone about this and got no real response - other than it was hardware related and that I need to come to MD and have them look at my setup. I also tried talking to them about the full boost @ 4000 rpm thing and got no response either. As someone mentioned you could have like a 3071R and still have it by then. I'm running an N75F and I can still get 23psi before 3000 rpms under load easily. Even in earlier gears I can get it by like 3400 rpms. The issue is it's a real weak 23psi b/c you can hear the WG trying to open to bleed - flutters. I told this to Pat and he thought I was psycho. He again related this to a HW issue based on my WG. I don't see how this is illogical as there is 1000rpm overboost scenario, so it makes sense the WG would be doing something weird there (600-700 mbar seperation). 
Someone else call PI. See if they tell you to drive out and have your car checked out. The PI k04 file (as Revo explained they don't offer support for this b/c it's not their file anymore - which blows for us as consumers) isn't completed or something. Something is missing. Remember, they have files for TTs that make them drive like k03s' did for everyone here. There's no reason this should be occurring. Please call and complain. Just use my logs as reference points if need be. Just don't send them to them again. They'll catch on.


_Modified by Boostin20v at 8:27 PM 8-21-2007_


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif To Pat @ PI today. I really had a great convo w/him today. 
Depending on how things go over the next week I may be headed down to try to get my issues worked out. Either way, today was by far the best convo I've had with him and he was very frank about a lot of things. It was very reassuring. I guess it makes sense to call in the morning when they're not as busy anyhow... 
Edit: The convo was so good today that I'm confident that I'll be able to either go back and edit some previous posts or offer some other good PI praises. As long as everything comes through, I gaurentee I'll be going back and editing a good number of posts.


_Modified by 04VDubGLI at 11:05 AM 8-15-2007_


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

pi will take care of ya for sure, i can tell you for a fact that some sensors do work better than others, i have no clue as to why revo is actling like they are, they still wrote the file and still take credit for it, but when a prob occurs they blame someone elsei still offer my handy work at a price


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_pi will take care of ya for sure, i can tell you for a fact that some sensors do work better than others, i have no clue as to why revo is actling like they are, they still wrote the file and still take credit for it, but when a prob occurs they blame someone elsei still offer my handy work at a price









Pat made me a deal I can't refuse. He really was super reasonable this time. I guess calling in the morning >>>>> calling @ the end of the day. He was very helpful this time around


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I'm going to get GIAC k04 software on friday at AWE Tuning, probably going to pickup the race program too. Car seems to run pretty good. I stuck in the TT injetors tonight. The initial spool is a lil slow but once it gets moving it cranks up fast. The car feels really great at night when its about 70 degrees. Looking to have a dyno comparison here shortly.

I had an interesting thought...do any of you guys know if this will work. I have a boostvalve mbc 2 stage. Is it possible to hookup the low boost piggyback with the N75 valve so it controls part throttle and have high boost just be a regular MBC? That way I would have no sacrifice of part-throttle for daily driving.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

what deal did pat tell u?


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_what deal did pat tell u?

yeah, what is this mystery deal?
Even though my car is running and performing great right now, I'm still curious


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

Heres a short clip of me letting it hang in 2nd gear. if you look closely to my boost gauge you can see it hit 20psi than quickly dip down to 16psi. 18" street tires
Theres some ko4 lag for you










_Modified by Boostin20v at 8:27 PM 8-21-2007_


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_Heres a short clip of me letting it hang in 2nd gear. if you look closely to my boost gauge you can see it hit 20psi than quickly dip down to 16psi. 18" street tires
Theres some ko4 lag for you









What sw do you run?










_Modified by SloJTI at 8:44 PM 8-16-2007_


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

revo ftl?


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_revo ftl?

I swear......
I had 20 psi by 3000, no later than 3100 in any gear with my GIAC ko4-020 file. Hell, I should go make a vid in my car now with the 3071r, and I'll have identical spool as 18tNeckbreaka


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
I swear......
I had 20 psi by 3000, no later than 3100 in any gear with my GIAC ko4-020 file. Hell, I should go make a vid in my car now with the 3071r, and I'll have identical spool as 18tNeckbreaka


same spool...but ummm WAYYY FASTER









Mine spools at about 3400 max now.. i put the MBC infront of n75 seems to work... again revo ftl untill somebody fixes it.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_

same spool...but ummm WAYYY FASTER









Nah, ko4 rules http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
I swear......
I had 20 psi by 3000, no later than 3100 in any gear with my GIAC ko4-020 file. Hell, I should go make a vid in my car now with the 3071r, and I'll have identical spool as 18tNeckbreaka

I would say this is true. I dont pay too much attn to mine. But that would have to be about right.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_
I would say this is true. I dont pay too much attn to mine. But that would have to be about right.

Not only is that low end tq that is lost by spooling this little turbo that late, but your overall powerband is chopped by 800 rpm's







And let's be realistic, this turbo falls off at 6500. So with Revo SW, you get a 2600 rpm powerband with a OEM turbo http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
Not only is that low end tq that is lost by spooling this little turbo that late, but your overall powerband is chopped by 800 rpm's







And let's be realistic, this turbo falls off at 6500. So with Revo SW, you get a 2600 rpm powerband with a OEM turbo http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 

Not necessarily, I hit full boost with your turbo at the same point basically. I tried to take a video but I couldn't shift and hold the wheel at the same time so I gotta get some sort of stand.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_
Not necessarily, I hit full boost with your turbo at the same point basically. I tried to take a video but I couldn't shift and hold the wheel at the same time so I gotta get some sort of stand.









"Same point" meaning 3100 or 3800?


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_
What downpipe are you running? That is similiar to the way my car is behaving right now.

3" downpipe no cat
That is with MBC inline with stock N75 electronically plugged in. After that i took out the N75 and my partial throttle was a bit better, but not much difference. I'm sure this is what 04VdubGli is experiencing with his. theres gotta be something up
And yes im running Revo Bt Gt28rs file (440cc)


_Modified by 1.8 Neckbreaka at 10:20 PM 8-16-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

My car actually has been running... OK lately. I have PT to 7psi on my 1.8T MAF sensor. It's running lean though. But, naturally the car is adapting fueling and the AFR doesn't even look bad or anything (adaptation is just ridiculous!). 
It still feels a little flat up top. We'll see how things work out soon enough.


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_
And yes im running Revo Bt Gt28rs file (440cc)


could be your problem? 28rs file... I knwo people have ran the 28r dunno of there is that much of a diff though


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

There is no difference gt28R and gt28Rs use the same file, unless you upgrade to the 550cc file


----------



## mj6234 (Jan 24, 2002)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

Sooooooooooo has anyone made any real power on this turbo without nitrous, water/meth, 900psi, or race gas?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (mj6234)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mj6234* »_Sooooooooooo has anyone made any real power on this turbo without nitrous, water/meth, 900psi, or race gas?

No.


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (mj6234)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mj6234* »_Sooooooooooo has anyone made any real power on this turbo without nitrous, water/meth, 900psi, or race gas?

Define real power? With this turbo and a good tune you can easily put down 20-30 more whp and 30-40 more wtq than a fully bolted stock turbo. To me, I think that makes for a decent upgrade for the price, especially if you build your own kit like I did http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Heck, now that I've added water/meth, bumped my timing and my boost levels I'm probably putting down 50-60 more whp and wtq than I did with my stock turbo


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (mj6234)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mj6234* »_Sooooooooooo has anyone made any real power on this turbo without nitrous, water/meth, 900psi, or race gas?

We don't make real power, we make real TORQUE!







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (loudgli)*

Does anyone have any a/f logs to compare to mine. It would be block 031. I think it looks about right if I was to assume.


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: The Official Ko4-02x thread (01gtiaww)*

I got updated with GIAC on friday Honestly the car doesn't seem to drive/feel much different. I do make boost a little better now (12lbs at 3000 rpm)but I'm still not hitting full boost till 3800 RPM and its only spiking at 21. I wouldn't even call it a spike it jumps up there and holds 20 lbs and up high it starts to taper off down to 15 lbs at redline. 
The mid-top range feels strong but it still plateaus off though, like k03s but higher, most likely from the boost tapering down. I'm thinking about giving the wastegate some attention as I was reading back and saw some of you guys had given it a few turns. I really miss the low end tq. The ko3 was making 20 psi at 3k and I'm only getting 12psi now. Gotta triple check the hoses, maybe swap back to the stock n75 (don't think that will change boost onset much) and definetly invest in a downpipe.


_Modified by TooLFan46n2 at 10:34 PM 8-19-2007_


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: The Official Ko4-02x thread (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_I got updated with GIAC on friday Honestly the car doesn't seem to drive/feel much different. I do make boost a little better now (12lbs at 3000 rpm)but I'm still not hitting full boost till 3800 RPM and its only spiking at 21. I wouldn't even call it a spike it jumps up there and holds 20 lbs and up high it starts to taper off down to 15 lbs at redline. 
The mid-top range feels strong but it still plateaus off though, like k03s but higher, most likely from the boost tapering down. I'm thinking about giving the wastegate some attention as I was reading back and saw some of you guys had given it a few turns. I really miss the low end tq. The ko3 was making 20 psi at 3k and I'm only getting 12psi now. Gotta triple check the hoses, maybe swap back to the stock n75 (don't think that will change boost onset much) and definetly invest in a downpipe.

_Modified by TooLFan46n2 at 10:34 PM 8-19-2007_

I'm tellin you man, ditch the N75 and run a MBC. You'll be giving up some partial throttle, but you should be spiking 20+ psi by 3400 rpms and holding more boost up top http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I'm sorry, but I'm going to basically disagree w/everyone this thread. Run whatever GIAC tells you. You SHOULD be running stock F valve, TT MAF sensor, and 2.5+ TBE IIRC their standards. So, run that. Do a boost pressure test and a vac leak test. Don't start screwing w/things until you've done all of that. I started screwing around w/things and found out I had a bunch of boost leaks. I fixed some of those and also fixed some vac lines and now I see 23psi by 3000rpms or sometimes sooner under load. And that's even w/the SW being ****. The SW is causing the N75 to bounce all over the place and make some weird boost. Otherwise I'd prob be seeing a spike in the 25-26psi range. GIAC should be seeing full boost by like 3100-3200 rpms and it should be close to 20psi. That has been proven several times on this thread alone. I would suggest you look at hardware. Revo on the other hand... I'd give you a bunch of suggestions on what to check as I've done hardware checks about 100 times and gotten it to the best I've had thus far and it's still crappy. I have all stock parts in and their in stock location. And I'm making 20+ (Vag says around 23psi typically) psi from basically 3000-5400 rpms then tapering to 16-17psi around redline. And realistically it should be better than it is. I'm hoping Pat can fix it up. Also, the best running car on this thread was probably Jeremy's (Mr. Charger). But, he had a CUSTOM Revo file. It's not the ones everyone else here has. So really he's a bad example.


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: The Official Ko4-02x thread (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_I got updated with GIAC on friday Honestly the car doesn't seem to drive/feel much different. I do make boost a little better now (12lbs at 3000 rpm)but I'm still not hitting full boost till 3800 RPM and its only spiking at 21. I wouldn't even call it a spike it jumps up there and holds 20 lbs and up high it starts to taper off down to 15 lbs at redline. 
The mid-top range feels strong but it still plateaus off though, like k03s but higher, most likely from the boost tapering down. I'm thinking about giving the wastegate some attention as I was reading back and saw some of you guys had given it a few turns. I really miss the low end tq. The ko3 was making 20 psi at 3k and I'm only getting 12psi now. Gotta triple check the hoses, maybe swap back to the stock n75 (don't think that will change boost onset much) and definetly invest in a downpipe.

_Modified by TooLFan46n2 at 10:34 PM 8-19-2007_

You have a boost leak or something. You need a smoke machine to find your leaks. Unless you have a huge leak you wont find it by pushing air through the system.
You should be spiking sooner than you are. You should probably be spiking higher, and you should hold more than 15 at redline. Im seeing 18-19psi at redline every time. I am running a j-valve but only because it helps with surging. 
You are running a stock downpipe?


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: The Official Ko4-02x thread (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_I got updated with GIAC on friday Honestly the car doesn't seem to drive/feel much different. I do make boost a little better now (12lbs at 3000 rpm)but I'm still not hitting full boost till 3800 RPM and its only spiking at 21. I wouldn't even call it a spike it jumps up there and holds 20 lbs and up high it starts to taper off down to 15 lbs at redline. 
The mid-top range feels strong but it still plateaus off though, like k03s but higher, most likely from the boost tapering down. I'm thinking about giving the wastegate some attention as I was reading back and saw some of you guys had given it a few turns. I really miss the low end tq. The ko3 was making 20 psi at 3k and I'm only getting 12psi now. Gotta triple check the hoses, maybe swap back to the stock n75 (don't think that will change boost onset much) and definetly invest in a downpipe.

_Modified by TooLFan46n2 at 10:34 PM 8-19-2007_


Your stock DownPipe is your problem. It would not hurt to check for leaks but the stock DP is your biggest problem. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif You should also get a MBC and put it inline with your N75. You can also adjust your wastegate actuator rod from 1.5-2.0 turns towards the wastegate. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Personally I run the J valve with a boostvalve MBC inline with the J valve and the wastegate adjusted 2 turns. I am currently spiking at 24 and holding bout 19-20. I will post a small vid of a 3rd gear pull when I get home. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
*By the way 20squared is having an OVERSTOCK sale on their 3 inch DownPipes. $350 plus free shipping.* http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:20 AM 8-20-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:26 AM 8-20-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Ebay is always overstocked on downpipes. And metal does the same thing. Hell, if you want I'll sell you my GHL w/hi flow cat for $300 + shipping and pick up an ebay DP.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW
That reduces though.
http://www.meganracing.com/pro...id=22
More reputable... kind of? Still 1/2 the price.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...wItem
Rip off of above item. 
I'm sure someone will chime in about them being garbage. And I'm sure there are some people who may have had to get them shortened or lengthened, but for the price I wouldn't mind the slight hassle. Furthermore there are some good write ups around here that give prime examples of them working. I have a GHL... but if I did exhaust over I would go generic and piece one together. I could have saved myself a ton of cash and put it into something else. My .02


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## papodotcom (May 3, 2007)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

setup comes with k04,both side intercoolers,intercooler piping,exhaust manifold and downturn(needed for the kit for u mk4 owners),injectors,boost sencer.

thats the set up^

they are selling me this off of an aud TT (225) i was wondering what else would i need to put this into my GTI (an 03) right now im runnign revo stage 2 4 bar FPR is there any custom thigns that i would need or would it be almost a close plug and play affair 


_Modified by papodotcom at 1:59 PM 8-20-2007_


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (papodotcom)*

They are selling a similar set-up over on the MK1 classifieds for 850. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif That is all you need MINUS the k04-20 SOFTWARE! And you will need the UP PIPE that Pro IMports sells to bolt up ur DP. The one in your picture from your previous thread won't work. It can work, with some modification. I think BMXP was running with that AUDI TT one until I SOLD HIM AN EXTRA upipe I had laying around.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 5:52 PM 8-20-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 5:58 PM 8-20-2007_


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Alright thanks for the input guys. I picked up an ebay downpipe here on vortex cheap and I'm going to try and pressurize the system tomorrow after work - I don't know how effective that will be because the VW repair guide says to only do 8 psi if more engine damage can result. At the very least I will double check my clamps and add some more hose clamps to further keep things tight. 
It will probably be a few days till I can post results rain is in the forcast for pretty much all week.


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_Alright thanks for the input guys. I picked up an ebay downpipe here on vortex cheap and I'm going to try and pressurize the system tomorrow after work - I don't know how effective that will be because the VW repair guide says to only do 8 psi if more engine damage can result. At the very least I will double check my clamps and add some more hose clamps to further keep things tight. 
It will probably be a few days till I can post results rain is in the forcast for pretty much all week.









Block off the TB hose and the pipe that leads off the turbo outlet. Charge only that segment and charge it to 20+ psi. If you're going to charge the entire system then just stay below 10psi.


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## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_ I think BMXP was running with that AUDI TT one until I SOLD HIM AN EXTRA upipe I had laying around.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Up i'm running hte up pipe right now... I re did my DP... used to have the OEM TT cut off at hte flexi pipe (which is about 2.5") mated to the stock cat...
now i have an ATP DP mated to the stock cat w/ PI exhaust up pipe 
BTW... I do still have the TT DP that i used...


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

to shed light i ran a mbc most of the time
n75 was cool but even with a custome tune i would spike in5th or 6th on the highway. pegging a 30psi gauge didnt seem safe to me for iat's for lnger than 30+ seconds


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

I love my Dual Stage MBC http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
I'm so used to driving the car with it now I don't have any partial throttle issues, especially in low boost


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

same, personally gas millage got better cause i drove with a lighter foot to keep outta pt and wasnt s hard on my engine


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

We are always discussing MBC's for this setup, but how would an Electronic Boost Controller work on the k04-20?


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

waste


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_We are always discussing MBC's for this setup, but how would an Electronic Boost Controller work on the k04-20?

I was told it wouldn't work any better than an MBC... that's why I went with the dual stage


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_We are always discussing MBC's for this setup, but how would an Electronic Boost Controller work on the k04-20?

The only people discussing MBCs/EBCs are people running Revo. IT'S A SOFTWARE ISSUE! Why doesn't anyone get it? Everyone wants to work around it. It's a ****ing software issue. Those are bandaids for issues. If the cars were running properly no one should be running MBC/EBCs except maybe to try to push more boost than the SW will allow (23+ PSI and I'm guessing it'll let you do more anyhow if you really wanted to). Why doesn't anyone get it. Everyone on this thread is so concerned with trying to work around the SW rather than fixing it. That's why PI doesn't hear many complaints. That's why no one is getting anywhere.














Get real people. It's a software issue. These are all bandaids. FIX THE SOFTWARE! Yeah, some people here obviously have boost leaks or vac leaks, but frankly I've been over my car a ton of times. I'm not saying I may not have a small vac leak somewhere, but I don't have any boost leaks anymore. And it started running better when I killed the leaks. However, it's still a SW issue. Fueling (g/s) is off, the boost curves are retarded, and the PT is garbage (also g/s). So, what I'm basically saying is that there seems to be some misprogramming on the MAF Sensor and also on the N75. Not to mention some completely wrong programming in the sense that 4000 rpms is a GREAT place to start achieving full boost... for a 3076, not a k04-020.














If someone else doesn't start seeing this and start complaining about SW I vouche to never come on this thread again. I can't do this alone b/c one person doesn't suggest SW. 10 people will get something done. And more than that are on here. Yet I'm the only one who seems to want to make the car run correctly - not just adapt my "style" of driving to the SW or adapt the HW to the SW (via MBC/EBC/ETC). 
























































http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

I won't argue that my REVO K04-02x software doesn't has problems, especially when it comes to boost. However, I don't have the time or money to argue/fight with PI or REVO about the flaws in the software. I mean it's been proven several times that the software calls for full boost at 4000 RPMs when we all know this turbo should be at full boost by 3500 RPMs at the latest. But instead of b*tching about it and waiting for something to be done, I bought a dual stage MBC from Boostvalve.com and dealt with it. Now with the MBC, I run low boost at 12 psi for daily driving with hardly any PT problems and high boost of 22-24 psi when I want to get on it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Yeah, it's not ideal and it's no where near perfect, but it works for me. It also puts out as much power as I think this turbo/software combination is capable of. If I could afford to switch to Unitronics or even standalone I would do it in a heartbeat, but unfortunately I can't... I don't care how bad the software is, but until REVO or PI admit there is a problem with it, I'm going to keep driving my car the way I have it set up now










_Modified by 20vTurboGLI at 6:54 PM 8-21-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
The only people discussing MBCs/EBCs are people running Revo. IT'S A SOFTWARE ISSUE! Why doesn't anyone get it? Everyone wants to work around it. It's a ****ing software issue. Those are bandaids for issues. If the cars were running properly no one should be running MBC/EBCs except maybe to try to push more boost than the SW will allow (23+ PSI and I'm guessing it'll let you do more anyhow if you really wanted to). Why doesn't anyone get it. Everyone on this thread is so concerned with trying to work around the SW rather than fixing it. That's why PI doesn't hear many complaints. That's why no one is getting anywhere.














Get real people. It's a software issue. These are all bandaids. FIX THE SOFTWARE! Yeah, some people here obviously have boost leaks or vac leaks, but frankly I've been over my car a ton of times. I'm not saying I may not have a small vac leak somewhere, but I don't have any boost leaks anymore. And it started running better when I killed the leaks. However, it's still a SW issue. Fueling (g/s) is off, the boost curves are retarded, and the PT is garbage (also g/s). So, what I'm basically saying is that there seems to be some misprogramming on the MAF Sensor and also on the N75. Not to mention some completely wrong programming in the sense that 4000 rpms is a GREAT place to start achieving full boost... for a 3076, not a k04-020.














If someone else doesn't start seeing this and start complaining about SW I vouche to never come on this thread again. I can't do this alone b/c one person doesn't suggest SW. 10 people will get something done. And more than that are on here. Yet I'm the only one who seems to want to make the car run correctly - not just adapt my "style" of driving to the SW or adapt the HW to the SW (via MBC/EBC/ETC). 
























































http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 


i know a few people with giac k0420 sw on k0420 cars and other small upgraded turbos who run mbc's as well


----------



## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

*Final Warning*
This is not a chit-chat thread. Use this thread to discuss the K04-02x upgrades or this thread will be locked.


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (Boostin20v)*

Well... I'm done with this kit... I don't understand how my car got slower with better mods..

I'm not the best driver in the world but... I'd think that from additional mods from last year I'd pick up a few MPH.
As far as weight reduction, it's the same. Full Interior.
Mods from last year: audi TT DP that was ****ty made about a 2.5"ish into stock cat to stock dia piping till the 3" catback connected. Also had a broken DP gasket so a little exhaust gas was leaking. I belive I was still 2staging. Was running TT's at 4 bar. AEM intake. boost valve OB setup
This years mods: Full 3" TBE mated to stock cat. TTinjectors at 4 bar (adjustable adjusted to 3.5 on that run shown) ABD intake manifold and then carbonio CAI. boost valve MBC in front of N75 to stop 2 staging.








Same tires as last year, falken ze512s. I do wanna say the 2staging might of been faster b/c it held 20 closer to red line. I wanna say it started falling to 17/18 arond 6k. vs 15/16 5500rpm.
I'm tired of this ish... I think tomorrow I"m gonna buy my revo guy to flash me under 28r or gt2x program tomorrow.
edit: some might say weather might be a factor... Umm last year it was about 90* or so this year it was about 70* 


_Modified by bmxp at 12:36 AM 8-23-2007_


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

Hmmm, your new numbers look like chipped stock turbo numbers... 
That's really odd that you lost 5 mph, especially with the new mods. Maybe you have a boost leak or something else is wrong? I just don't see how it's possible you lost so much power...


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

I say it's b/c it's REVO....

anyway... I doubt I have a leak... even though I have not tested... about 1 month ago I took off all my pipes, cleaned them. Re tighten each one. Cleaned the core out. inspected all silicone for and rips... And re installed.. Worked fine and a little bit better (probably placebo effect). I just think it's the SW... B/c it ran better when I first flashed it... even on the 2 stage bull ****... Back then I had a boost creep problem solved with Overboost setup... then the creep went away but still 2 staged... So I put MBC infront of n75 feels fine... but I guess not.... I'm getting a CV boot replaced at the place that flashed me... I might do 28r SW or gt2x sw... we'll see Either way I might jsut do it b/c I will be at some point in the next 6 month going to a 28rs at the min.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

take out the cat bmx, revo k0420 has he cat delete program, no cel no nothing i pased emmisions just fine with no cat 2 times
makes a big difference


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Def. the stock cat is the culprit!


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

How could the stock cat be the culprit... If you have read... it's been in there since the beginning.


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_I say it's b/c it's REVO....

anyway... I doubt I have a leak... even though I have not tested... about 1 month ago I took off all my pipes, cleaned them. Re tighten each one. Cleaned the core out. inspected all silicone for and rips... And re installed.. Worked fine and a little bit better (probably placebo effect). I just think it's the SW... B/c it ran better when I first flashed it... even on the 2 stage bull ****... Back then I had a boost creep problem solved with Overboost setup... then the creep went away but still 2 staged... So I put MBC infront of n75 feels fine... but I guess not.... I'm getting a CV boot replaced at the place that flashed me... I might do 28r SW or gt2x sw... we'll see Either way I might jsut do it b/c I will be at some point in the next 6 month going to a 28rs at the min.

I agree that it could be the software, but in my personal experience with the same software I don't think my car was any faster with the 2 staging boost than it is now with my MBC. In fact, I'd say the 2 staging stock N75 setup was significantly slower than my current dual stage MBC setup in high boost. The car may have held an extra .5 psi to redline with the stock N75 but it didn't hit full boost until 4000 rpms... Using my MBC I hit full boost before 3400 RPMs, giving me an extra 500-600 RPMs of boost. I just don't see how the 2 staging boost would be any quicker...

_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_take out the cat bmx, revo k0420 has he cat delete program, no cel no nothing i pased emmisions just fine with no cat 2 times
makes a big difference


Would I need a reflash to remove my cat without throwing a code or is it already part of my software? I have the most recent k04-02x software and I'm currently using a high-flow cat as part of my GHL downpipe. I've been thinking about having it cut off and replaced with straight piping but I've been worried about throwing a CEL, if I know for sure the software is written for no cat then I'm definitely going to do it here soon http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

I believe it's part of the Software already!


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_ I just don't see how the 2 staging boost would be any quicker...


The reason why I believe it was quicker was because it would hold closer to 20psi till redline. From what I remember, it would run about 18/19ish psi at redline vs 15/16 psi. And once I got moving, the 2 stage didn't matter as far as not starting in a lower gear...like 3rd gear on the freeway at 40mph or something where it would be below 3k rpms where it would have to wait till 4k to get full boost. Get what I mean? In the 1/4 mile I shift at about 6k to 6500rpms and I'd see more boost (18 psi) at those rpms vs a 15psi at that rpm. My car does feel like a k03s in the 1/4 mile but if I'm driving around on the freeway and drop in to 4th it feels a lot faster.
I'm just tired of this BS not working like it should. I don't know why it's doing what it's doing. I think I'd rather have overboost/boost creep vs this crappy 15psi at redline bullcrap


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (bmxp)*

I was looking through the dyno thread and found this dyno sheet recently posted by a k04-20 PI kit user. Thought I would post here. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 










_Modified by 01gtiaww at 2:28 PM 8-23-2007_


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_
The reason why I believe it was quicker was because it would hold closer to 20psi till redline. From what I remember, it would run about 18/19ish psi at redline vs 15/16 psi. And once I got moving, the 2 stage didn't matter as far as not starting in a lower gear...like 3rd gear on the freeway at 40mph or something where it would be below 3k rpms where it would have to wait till 4k to get full boost. Get what I mean? In the 1/4 mile I shift at about 6k to 6500rpms and I'd see more boost (18 psi) at those rpms vs a 15psi at that rpm. My car does feel like a k03s in the 1/4 mile but if I'm driving around on the freeway and drop in to 4th it feels a lot faster.
I'm just tired of this BS not working like it should. I don't know why it's doing what it's doing. I think I'd rather have overboost/boost creep vs this crappy 15psi at redline bullcrap

Yeah man, I see what your saying, I guess my car just doesn't run like yours... I've never seen more than 18 psi at redline. With the N75 valve controlling boost I saw a hesitation in spool, full boost around 4000 RPMs and held roughly 18 psi to redline. Right now with my MBC I see no hesitation in spool, full boost by 3400 RPMs and 17-17.5 psi (according to vag com) to redline. 
I just can't get over how much trouble you guys are having with this software... I mean my car pulls hard and runs very well on the highway, especially with the water/meth. I think the best advice I can give everyone with REVO K04-02x software is to use a dual stage MBC to control boost. Set your low boost right around 8-10 psi and have no PT problems, then set you high boost at 22-24 psi and have awesome spool and great top end. Heck, I bet get better gas mileage than most of you guys with REVO


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_I was looking through the dyno thread and found this dyno sheet recently posted by a k04-20 PI kit user. Thought I would post here. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


That dyno looks very similar to mine without water/meth http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








I put down more torque, but the HP is spot on


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i said it before and ill say it again when my car was at its fastest point i was running 17lbs, mbc set to 17, no more no less, 17lbs from 2600-7000. i was pulling on all types of cars, outside temps around 70ish-80ish degrees. it was very qiuck then. then i got boost happy and turned it up, i knew it was slower at higher boost but the car felt very tourquey and i am obsessed with tq


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_i said it before and ill say it again when my car was at its fastest point i was running 17lbs, mbc set to 17, no more no less, 17lbs from 2600-7000. i was pulling on all types of cars, outside temps around 70ish-80ish degrees. it was very qiuck then. then i got boost happy and turned it up, i knew it was slower at higher boost but the car felt very tourquey and i am obsessed with tq

Hmmmm, maybe I'll turn my high boost setting down to 17-18 psi and see how it does...


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_
Yeah man, I see what your saying, I guess my car just doesn't run like yours... I've never seen more than 18 psi at redline. With the N75 valve controlling boost I saw a hesitation in spool, full boost around 4000 RPMs and held roughly 18 psi to redline. Right now with my MBC I see no hesitation in spool, full boost by 3400 RPMs and 17-17.5 psi (according to vag com) to redline. 

When I first installed the kit I had a boost creep problem if I was set higher than Boost 7 (8 or 9). What would happen is it'd hit peak boost at 4k then sit for a little bit and then rise up to 27ish PSI and maybe more. I'd thought I blew my engine but my DV open. At this point I raced an Evo and put about 2-3 cars on it on a 40-120. Evo was stock... but that's besides the point. It felt fast but I'd always have to be in the right gear to pass people b/c 12psi at WOT in 5th doens't get you moving very fast.... even in 4th...
I just may try stock n75 for a little bit w/o mbc in line.... and then try my MBC by itself.
Only problem I had with the MBC is that it'd spool fast but wouldn't hold for ****. Saw maybe 13/14 psi at 5k rpms.... ONly reason why I didn't run it by itself.


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (bmxp)*

Yeah man, I'd try it with the MBC alone and see how it does. If you're only holding 13-14 psi up top I'd even try tightening the waste gate a turn or two to see if that helps. 
As for me, my order of Boost Juice arrived this week so as soon as I run out of my home made water/meth mixture I'm gonna get it in the car and do some more logs. I'm hoping I'll be able to add a degree or two more of timing advance and run a little more boost up top with the more pure mix of water/meth. I'm also going to have the cat removed from my GHL 2.5" downpipe within the next week or so. Once I get that done, I think I'm gonna try to hit up the track and maybe the dyno again


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

I already tried the MBC alone... Didn't do crap like stated above.. only saw 14ish psi... hence the reason why I did a MBC in front of the n75.


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (bmxp)*

Well we did end up going to the track tonight. 
It was pitiful. I think it was 100* around the time we were there.
The new GSD3's I got did not hook up very well at all. I even tried heating them up. But as usual the car either bogged down or smoked the tire. Heating them up did help it not to wheel hop at the end of first though. 
I couldn't get a 60' better than 2.5.







still trapped 102
Everybody that I talked to was running about .3-.5 slower than usual. By buddies 335 was about .4 ET off.
Just a bad night in general.
So Im sad I wasn't able to get a good number difference from the water/meth. 
Only upside of the night was a camaro with a rear turbo setup that I passed around 90mph with his ET in the low 15's








I also managed to put atleast 5 car lengths on a v-8 s-10.
Next time I go. hopefull in a few weeks when it cools down, Id like to take my laptop with me to run a log or two and see if its doing what its supposed too. 
I felt a real bad 2nd gear hesitation twice tonight. I couldn't really put my finger on it. The next two runs seems to be ok. The one time it bogged so bad I though the car was going to stall.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_The only people discussing MBCs/EBCs are people running Revo. IT'S A SOFTWARE ISSUE! Why doesn't anyone get it? Everyone wants to work around it. It's a ****ing software issue. Those are bandaids for issues. If the cars were running properly no one should be running MBC/EBCs except maybe to try to push more boost than the SW will allow (23+ PSI and I'm guessing it'll let you do more anyhow if you really wanted to). Why doesn't anyone get it. Everyone on this thread is so concerned with trying to work around the SW rather than fixing it. That's why PI doesn't hear many complaints. That's why no one is getting anywhere.














Get real people. It's a software issue. These are all bandaids. FIX THE SOFTWARE!


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_I won't argue that my REVO K04-02x software doesn't has problems, especially when it comes to boost. However, I don't have the time or money to argue/fight with PI or REVO about the flaws in the software. I mean it's been proven several times that the software calls for full boost at 4000 RPMs when we all know this turbo should be at full boost by 3500 RPMs at the latest. But instead of b*tching about it and waiting for something to be done, I bought a dual stage MBC from Boostvalve.com and dealt with it. Now with the MBC, I run low boost at 12 psi for daily driving with hardly any PT problems and high boost of 22-24 psi when I want to get on it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

You guys are all crazy. I fixed all the PT problems with LW alone. I said it many times before and nobody ever even tried my suggestion. Keep the N75, use the TT MAF, turn down the boost scaling in LW and turn up boost on your SPS3 and see if you don't like driving a whole lot more.
Also both the PCV system (simplifying it) and LW's fuel trim settings (to make block 32 be close to if not exactly zero) have a big effect on PT and even exhaust note. I tuned both to the point of having my 3" turbo back exhaust being dead silent most of the time and now my car drives like a dream.
About to add a snow kit this weekend and I bet it'll be even better...










_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 10:38 PM 8-24-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

mbc all the way


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Anyone have an extra WG act? I need to try one out... possibly purchase one.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

You should just bye the adjustuble one Forge makes for the k04-20 series turbos.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_You should just bye the adjustuble one Forge makes for the k04-20 series turbos.

But it's bank...IIRC 150 bones (you can pick up an external gate for that price almost)


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Anyone have an extra WG act? I need to try one out... possibly purchase one.

Have you checked eBay? I've seen a bunch of K04 rebuild kits and parts on there before. It's worth a shot...


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
But it's bank...IIRC 150 bones (you can pick up an external gate for that price almost)

Yep. I'll pass for that price. I'm just looking for an OEM one. Or... something.
I'll check the bay.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_mbc all the way

No mbc and GIAC off the N75 ftw


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

N75 J VALVE with the MBC inline works for me!


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Someone try just going off of WG spring tension. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised? I forgot to mention that worked out pretty well for me. Just plug the N75 line to the WG and see what happens.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Is there not a line plugged up to the Waste Gate already? Or do you mean both lines of the N75 to the WG only? I have the top line going to the WASTEGATE and the side line going into my MBC and from MBC into Upper Intercooler pipe.


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 5:13 PM 8-25-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_Is there not a line plugged up to the Waste Gate already? Or do you mean both lines of the N75 to the WG only? I have the top line going to the WASTEGATE and the side line going into my MBC and from MBC into Upper Intercooler pipe.

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 5:13 PM 8-25-2007_

I mean... really just the one to the WG itself. No need to plug the charge pipe side. This should tell you the spring pressure of the WG. Mine was apparently screwed up... so my car actually ran well that way. But, who knows. Anyone know the exact spring rate of the actuator on a k04-020?


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
I mean... really just the one to the WG itself. No need to plug the charge pipe side. This should tell you the spring pressure of the WG. Mine was apparently screwed up... so my car actually ran well that way. But, who knows. Anyone know the exact spring rate of the actuator on a k04-020?

are you suggesting running a boost hose straight from the wastegate to the charge pipe and letting the turbo control boost with the wastegate spring instead of an MBC or N75 to control boost? If you are I wouldn't suggest trying this because I know if I did that to mine I'd probably see more than 30+ psi spikes... 
I don't know the spring rate or what the tension is supposed to be on the K04 wastegate, but I wouldn't mess with it.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

Spring rates of those WG shouldn't be over 12psi if that http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_Spring rates of those WG shouldn't be over 12psi if that http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


I actually think it maybe 7psi. But... I don't really know yet. I need a WG before I can find out. Anyone know for certain? Obviously one way to find out is to go CP to WG and see what it boosts.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

5psi is the factory setting.if you crank it you can get up to 10-11psi


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

I ran some logs the other day but I haven't gotten them graphed yet. I did notice my actual boost can't keep up with requested in the higher RPM for some reason but I won't dwell on that to much until I get some graphs up. Today I fabbed my CAI up the intake, man it sounds nasty







I also mounted the Dual Stage Boostvalve but it isn't connected yet.
One thing I did notice was that the TIP gets pancaked a little by the intercooler pipe. Does anyone elses TIP get pancaked? It sits up so high I can't seem to find a better position for it. I'm not sure if its the brand (ebay - i think its a NOPI tip) I'm using or if they are all like that with the IC pipe going overtop. It just makes me wonder if that would inhibit flow. Interesting enough I chatted with a guy who had a modded TT 225 w/ Revo at work yesterday. He said he was getting nasty spikes of 25 psi at first so he used the SPS and lowered boost. He said full boost is about 34-3600 RPM and it hits 20 psi and holds and he *thinks* it tapers down to maybe 16-17 psi at redline. (He said he doesn't rev the car that high)


_Modified by TooLFan46n2 at 5:55 PM 8-26-2007_


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*

Hmm... My buddy has a TT 225 with REVO and a bunch of bolt ons and he sees 25-26 psi by 3400 then holds a nice steady 18 psi to redline. I've been wanting to run my car against his, but he just lost his license so it'll be a while.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_One thing I did notice was that the TIP gets pancaked a little by the intercooler pipe. Does anyone elses TIP get pancaked? It sits up so high I can't seem to find a better position for it. I'm not sure if its the brand (ebay - i think its a NOPI tip) I'm using or if they are all like that with the IC pipe going overtop.

Not supposed to collapse, that is bad. Maybe you could coil a coat hanger inside the hose to keep it from collapsing. Just make sure it's not going to suck the coil into the turbo.


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_One thing I did notice was that the TIP gets pancaked a little by the intercooler pipe. Does anyone elses TIP get pancaked? It sits up so high I can't seem to find a better position for it. )

Mine is b/c of the upper IC pipe... it sits right ontop of it so it pushes it down... it does go flat all the way, kind of ovalizes (OMG IT"S PANCAKE PIPE) I'm sure it's ok, I don't think it's like the stock tip where it would get sucked in at the turbo. BTW I have a samco


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (bmxp)*

I have a forge, and though I haven't seen it cause I haven't dyno'ed my car, I don't believe it could pancake. The Samco I had originally was a lot thinner and I think it could have that problem...


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_I have a forge, and though I haven't seen it cause I haven't dyno'ed my car, I don't believe it could pancake. The Samco I had originally was a lot thinner and I think it could have that problem...


I have a stock TT TIP from an 01. It didn't collapse on the dyno. Anyhow, I did get a silicone one b/c I'm hoping it'll be a little better via smoothing, but I'll let everyone know about that in a bit. May see it for sale soon. Anyhow, I really don't think I buy them collapsing. Maybe if you're running an airbox or something? I have 3" from the MAF to the end of my CAI. I never thought it would really try to collapse with that setup, but I was a little concerned.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I have a SAMCO and it is solid as a rock. The 3 inch MAF and 3 inch CARBONIO CAI hold it up pretty good. The only way I see it colapsing or pancaking is if you run intercooling piping over it. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 10:59 AM 8-27-2007_


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

I'm using the Samco/Forge Turbo Inlet Pipe with my Eurojet IC piping running over top of it and I don't have any clearance or pancaking issues going on at all. In fact, my IC piping doesn't press down on the TIP at all because of how long the 45* coupler on the turbo end of the IC piping is http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

you should take a pic of it... as I should with mine... and we can compair


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

I'll get an engine bay picture later tonight http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

my samco was solid like a rock as well
with a open high flow filter, i find it hard to belive it is collapsing under boost at the neck by the turbo.


_Modified by 200320thAE2632 at 2:25 PM 8-28-2007_


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Its not collapsing under boost, its pancaking because of the positon and weight of my upper IC pipe. I'll take a pic tonight. I don't think its a huge problem but obviously its not ideal.


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

Ok so a little update on my setup:
Later this week I'll be removing my cat from my 2.5" downpipe. I will also be adding the Boost Juice to my water/meth setup and doing some logs and tweaking my lemmiwinks settings. I'm hoping I can add a little more timing advance with the Boost Juice. I'm also going to turn my boost up 1-2 more PSI in high boost and see how the car does. Hopefully within the next month, I'll hit up the dyno again and get some numbers on water/meth. I'm also going to try to hit the track once the weather cools down








Oh and just to add, I ran an Audi TT 225 with REVO, a custom 3" Turbo Back Exhaust, a FMIC and some other bolt ons tonight. We did a 40-100 pull and I came out on top 1-2 car lengths. He got the jump (good ole all wheel drive) but I caught him, and started to pass him by about 70 mph. If we had kept going I would have put even more distance between us. My car definitely had more power up top. It was a good race http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Anyone have the Ebay TIP on their car? Autobahn88 is the make I believe? It seems like it clears everything well, the only issue I'm having is that it's coming off @ a weird angle. I'm going to take it off tomorrow and try to trim some piping off and see if I can get it fixed up. Right now it's coming off angled almost at the hood. I'm going to make it work either way b/c it was significantly less expensive, so if need be I'll chop it and put a piece of PVC in it or something, but does anyone have any advice? I may post some pics to help someone else...


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

the ebay ones use cheap silicone, wants heated up via engine bay temps it will eventually sag....


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_the ebay ones use cheap silicone, wants heated up via engine bay temps it will eventually sag....

Honestly, it feels identical to my Samco/Forge I had on my k03s. My only gripe is w/the angle. I don't really know what will sag about it? Like... the MAF side could try to sag, but the MAF/CAI will hold it up. The center is 100% vertical. The inlet side has a little bit of extra room I guess. But even so, I don't think that'll sag?


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

They are not talking about... like... for "easy access"... It's not sagging or trying to be "cool"... I don't think, it's just a hose/pipe... I think they mean "collapse, from vacuum", or "crush, from the weight of IC piping".











_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 9:07 AM 8-29-2007_


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

will eventually sag with non mounted cheap IC, ive seen it alot. i have installed a cheap eby one before and it was nothing like the many of samco ones i have installed.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Ok, so is anyone interested in buying the Forge wastegate? I'm considering it... but I REALLY don't want to pay an arm for it. Anyone wanna try a group buy?


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

already tried it


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

Sorry man but I have no reason to try the Forge wastegate...


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

I would get one if I needed one, but im saving up for other things.


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Need some opinions on an o2 sensor. Mine has already crapped out on me so im going to order a wideband o2 with gauge. my question is, should i put the o2 sensor in the downpipe or should i put it where the 2nd bung is. I dont run a Cat so the 2nd sensor is pointless. Could i just put the o2 sensor in the 2nd bung. Because the first placement is VERY close to the turbo and would probably burn the sensor faster no?
Heres a pic to show you how close the sensor is on my DP


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

put it on stock position? maybe warp it up with some heat shield stuff....


----------



## oempls (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (bmxp)*

I was wondering how much its going to cost me to get this kit? I cant seem to fiind a place that has a full kit. Anyone? I did some browsing round but not much.


----------



## lax1492 (Jan 19, 2004)

*Re: (Island20V)*

call pro imports to get a ball park idea of prices

301- 881-4905

http://store.pro-imports.com/catalog.asp?catid=180


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Island20V)*

Best bet is to pick one up from the AUDI TT classifieds. People are always selling whole kits off their cars for $1000 or less. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## oempls (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

All the parts swap over with no problems?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Island20V)*

Yes it is a direct swap, if you have everything you need. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

Since I'm bored I'll post a quick list for you:
- Audi TT 225 K04-02x Turbo
- Audi TT 225 Exhaust Manifold
- Audi TT 225 OEM Turbo Inlet Pipe or Forge TIP
- Audi TT 225 Oil Feed/Return Lines (or talk to Pro Imports)
- Audi TT 225 Collant Feed/Return Lines
- Pro Imports K04 Up-pipe
- Install Hardware (gaskets, studs, nuts, bolts, etc...)
- Software (REVO or GIAC)
- Upgraded Injectors (OEM TT 225 (364cc) or USRT Genesis 380cc)
- OEM 3" Mass Air Flow Housing
If you're using the stock SMIC you may want to talk to Pro Imports about the upper intercooler pipe they sell or if you're using a FMIC you might need a 45* coupler for the turbo outlet. You also might need an OEM 4 bar FPR and a VR6 maf sensor depedning on which software you choose to go with. Good Luck!!!


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

Okay lil update on my setup,

Last week I installed my Ebay downpipe. 3" No Cat, Install was very easy and it fit pretty darn good. Results? The car loves it. I believe the stock dp & cat were surprisenly a huge restriction for just a k04. I'm getting full boost now at 3400 RPM, spiking about 22 psi. I noticed that the higher the gear I'm in the more boost it holds at redline. For example 2nd gear will be 14 psi but 4th gear will hold about/close to 18 psi at redline.
Overall the car runs flawless. No idle hiccups, no 2 stepping boost, no part throttle surging (keep it below 7 psi), no codes stored in the ECM. Flat out OEM build perfect. I'm not sure I even want to hookup my manuel boost controller, I will probably try it and may do a comparative dyno between the n75 and the MBC. My car is getting painted for h20 so expect a dyno soon after that. When its 70 degrees or below the car pulls like mad - almost violently.







Definitely going to have to upgrade to water meth.
As far as HP goes I'd guesstimate 225whp 260ish WTQ. I don't wont to get overzealous and dissapointed with my numbers but it feels right on par with a stock Porsche Carrera 4. 



_Modified by TooLFan46n2 at 6:50 PM 9-6-2007_


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

That's great to hear man!!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
You're whp estimate is probably very close, you might even see 230 with the 3" DP. I'd also be willing to bet you'll easily put up 270+ wtq








Good Luck!!!


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

Nick are you still running that large wai nozzle. Did you turn the pump psi down?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_Okay lil update on my setup,

Last week I installed my Ebay downpipe. 3" No Cat, Install was very easy and it fit pretty darn good. Results? The car loves it. I believe the stock dp & cat were surprisenly a huge restriction for just a k04. I'm getting full boost now at 3400 RPM, spiking about 22 psi. I noticed that the higher the gear I'm in the more boost it holds at redline. For example 2nd gear will be 14 psi but 4th gear will hold about/close to 18 psi at redline.
Overall the car runs flawless. No idle hiccups, no 2 stepping boost, no part throttle surging (keep it below 7 psi), no codes stored in the ECM. Flat out OEM build perfect. I'm not sure I even want to hookup my manuel boost controller, I will probably try it and may do a comparative dyno between the n75 and the MBC. My car is getting painted for h20 so expect a dyno soon after that. When its 70 degrees or below the car pulls like mad - almost violently.







Definitely going to have to upgrade to water meth.
As far as HP goes I'd guesstimate 225whp 260ish WTQ. I don't wont to get overzealous and dissapointed with my numbers but it feels right on par with a stock Porsche Carrera 4. 

_Modified by TooLFan46n2 at 6:50 PM 9-6-2007_

You have to have GIAC... there is no way that REVO is running well







Good to hear everything is running well. E-bay downpipes FTW! If you do have GIAC, I'd love to see your dyno. Any chance you can toss out some logs?


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_Nick are you still running that large wai nozzle. Did you turn the pump psi down?

I am still running the 375cc nozzle and I did turn the pump pressure down to around 80-100 psi. I did some logs and some tweaking with the pump and I found that the pump pressure didn't affect timing advance or intake temp as much as it did my air/fuel ratio. With the pump at the original psi setting my a/f ratio was quite rich, but when I turned the pump down, my a/f ratio settled right where I wanted it, in the 11.7-12.2 range http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
The car is running very well right now. I'm removing the cat from my downpipe this weekend and I'm going to turn up the boost a little next week. Then I'm gonna buy a bottle of the Nitro Booster from USRT, add that to my water/meth and hit the dyno and the 1/4 track before I head out to H2Oi. Judging by the way the car is performing on the street right now I'm expecting to see around 250ish whp and 300ish wtq on the dyno and trap speeds of 103-105 at the track, but we'll have to wait and see what happens.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i am selling two gt25/30's incase any of you wanna upgrade


----------



## oempls (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

I might just have to do this when I return from deployment!


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Island20V)*

What do you guys think about this catch can I just purchased? I know it's a little expensive and I could have gotten one for much cheaper, but I liked it.








http://www.saikoumichi.com/951_page.htm


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

Honestly, I think my $30 catch can from eBay does the same thing for much less money...


----------



## don5504 (Nov 27, 2004)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_Honestly, I think my $30 catch can from eBay does the same thing for much less money...

yea i would have to agree its just a catch can. its not like its a moving part. it only needs to catch and hold fluid while providing a way to drain it and check its level.
D


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I just got my catch can today. I'm not sure what sort of configuration I'm going to run w/it for my setup. 
Is anyone running an HKS SSQV? Any feedback on them? I'm really tired of recircing the hot air. I mean, it runs so hot as it is...


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

fark the MAF...I ran my HKS SSQV on several turbo set ups and never failed once, the nice thing about them is that they are deff. closed @ idle http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

ssqv is one of the few valves that can be run on our system... the other i know of is hte apexi
I"ve ran the greddy type s, hks, and SARD... hks has done the best so far as far keeping a perfect seal.


----------



## Maxpowerz (Feb 9, 2004)

what maf are people using with the revo software the TT maf?? now is that new new TT 03+ or the old TT -02?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (Maxpowerz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Maxpowerz* »_what maf are people using with the revo software the TT maf?? now is that new new TT 03+ or the old TT -02?

Neither TT MAF Sensor. We're running 1.8T MAF Sensors or VR6/2.0 MAF Sensors. GIAC uses TT MAF sensors. All of the above use TT MAF Housings/VR6 MAF Housings.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Not sure about that, I use a TT MAF with Revo. I never tried a VR6 MAF in a TT housing but maybe I will if my MAF ever goes bad. I was told by PI and others that the TT MAF would be fine and it's been working great at times so I'm sure it's fine. That's not to say that I haven't had problems here and there but so far I've never successfully pointed at the MAF as being it...


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

you can use the TT, VR6 MAF HOUSING but u should be using vr6/2.0 sensor or ur 1.8t sensor with PI REVO SW. According to PI and REVO that is.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_you can use the TT, VR6 MAF HOUSING but u should be using vr6/2.0 sensor or ur 1.8t sensor with PI REVO SW. According to PI and REVO that is.









You can run an S4 MAF sensor if you really want to. But, PI and Revo says the SW is written for either VR6 or 1.8T sensor







. Don't know how SW can be written for two sensors b/c they have totally different properties, but silly things like that are miniscule... GIAC however specifically requires a TT MAF sensor. 
Just as a remind, MAF sensors basically decide fueling and even boost at partial throttle. So if you're having partial throttle issues that's typically one of the first places to look. The car switches to 02 sensors @ WOT only.


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

Ok so for anyone who still cares I have some real world performance to share about my car and the K04-02x kit...
[Removed Street Racing Content]


_Modified by Boostin20v at 10:20 AM 9-19-2007_


----------



## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

SRT4's are kings of the roll on. especially from 80+ ive seen mopar stage 2 SRT4's murder evo 8s and evo9s with i/e/ cams, and meth. and unless your GLI is 3400lbs on a scale you arent much heavier, my gti is 2800even with a 1/2tank.. srt4's are over 2900lbs.



_Modified by boosted b5 at 9:05 AM 9-19-2007_


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

I'm running an Hks and love it. When I installed in on my k03 it held boost smoother at part throttle and held about .5 psi more at redline. It hasn't thrown a CEL but I do get a hidden code for the DV.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: Forge Actuator*

So I don't know what people were smoking when they tried the Forge actuator but this thing is a brilliant mod. They must have been drunk too because I totally swapped actuators in under 30 minutes (** two bolts! that's it!! **) without taking the turbo off the car.
Initial impressions are that it pulls like it's 23psi when you're at 15. It also comes on really strong, which isn't quite the same as part throttle problems but it's not exactly what I'd call perfect drivability. There are 4 springs to choose your boost pressure, I'm on the second strongest one, it's 16psi or so. I think the top stiffness spring is 24psi, the other two I don't know but I might try the one below this and see if it works with the N75 (right now I'm holding 16psi on the actuator alone). The idea is to try to make it run properly off the actuator - with no other boost controller - and I'm going to try to do that.
I'm going to be writing a full review of the product for Forge in the coming weeks, first I want to get it dialed in, do some logs with and without it, do a dyno with and without it. Anyhow, it's definitely a whole lot more of a "real performance mod" than an N75J or N75 Race, or what others may have said it was in the past. Also, you can totally see it when it's installed so the visual appeal isn't completely lost.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 1:32 PM 9-16-2007_


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: Forge Actuator (20AE-2306)*

Ive been recommending that for the longest time, but noonw ever listens to me.


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

dang nick your car is slow!








I think I would have took him. haha j/k Hey atleast you didn't get walked on too bad. Thats what happened with I was just chipped. 

So last night I was coming home and was beating on the car a bit. It was about 50-55* outside. I drove it pretty hard for about 45 minutes averaging about 70mph. Driving wot a decent amount of the time. I pull in the drive way, pop the hood and the intake is cold enough to chill your beer 







The throttle body probably wasnt far from frosting. I think that wai makes a big difference on keep everything from heat soaking. It runs awesome outside in these cooler temps. 
Anyway I ran a log tonight, it was the same temp outside. Im seeing 15*C at redline. I think I could run it all night without it ever heating up. 
Hope to go to the track one more time this season with these kind of temps.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (GiacGtiAgain)*

I'm working on trying to get a Forge WGA like 2306 and then I'm also thinking about working a tubular manifold. I'm not sure at this point whether a k04-020 would benefit more from a big port head or a tubular exhaust manifold. Or all of the above. I'm thinking about purchasing a second exhaust mani and getting some tubular versions made up - and if it gets to that point I'll see if I can get deals for like $300/mani. DNP sells them for $500 a piece.


_Modified by Boostin20v at 10:24 AM 9-19-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

when will u guys realize the wastegate isnt the issue, i wasted 160 bux on one, infact i have it around here somewhere
if the wastegate leaks, it would over boost all the time and not regulate boost at all, like having no wastegate at all.
if it were sticking then it would biuld boost so slow to the point where it would take 7k rpms to make 4 psi basicly. been there done that
if you want to stop the two stage boosting then try different sw, if you have boosting issues at all then do a presure test, if that fails, check to see if the throttle body was closing. that was my issue, here i thought it was a boost regulating prob, when the real reason was the throttle body was closing while in the middle of boosting, i fixed it by tinkering with my hardware
95% of these issues with boosting on pi revo k0420 cars around here are from throttle body closure.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

LOL! That is fuunny! You should get a t-shirt made. I'd buy it and be proud to wear it.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Anyone running a stock replacement adjustable FPR? I wanna see how it does with 3.5 bar. WHat are u guys running 3,3.5, 4??? I know I should run what the SW was designed for, but PI told me some cars like the 3 some the 4?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_









Dude... that inlet is way too big to be a k04!








No for real... that's awesome


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

I run the eurospec one... Dunno how well it runs at 3.5 bar as far as butt dyno, haven't done logs...


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (bmxp)*

<rant>
Neither of those are what I call K04's, I think it's pretty clear that the E05 and K04-001 are just tweaked K03's. From a robustness standpoint, they aren't even as durable as a K03. I had a K04-001 and it barely made any power over the K03 sport I had before it, and it blew during a boost spike to 25psi. Those are worthless turbos that should only (maybe) be considered if you blow your K03 and want a bolt-on replacement. Other than that, they give the K04 a bad name and they make people think they have something that can somehow boost higher or make mroe power when it really can't or is negligible.
The K04-02x are totally different turbos, they put out much more respectable power and they do so without being constantly tapped out. I would never consider buying a used K04-001 cause you know people push them too hard and they are soo fragile. But I did buy a K04-023 - with who knows how many miles (looked like a million) - but even still, it's proven to take a ton of abuse just while I've had it.
I was at a GTG the other day and the topic of turbos came up.. I said I had a K04, and I got totally dissed for it. People immediately think of the K04-001 when you say you have a K04. It's hard to even get people to listen to you cause they are so busy thinking of how worthless your K04 is.
The K04-001 and K04-015 are nothing, all the rest of the K04's - the K04-02x or K04-025 and -026's on 2.7TT's - put out respectable power. So realistically, most K04's do put out decent power, there are only a couple that don't. Nobody ever said they were as powerful as Garret BB turbos, but they definitely aren't nearly as laggy as some turbos that get a lot more respect around here. 
</rant>
So I don't think I'm going to refer to it as a K04 anymore, for me, I'd prefer to just call it a TT225 turbo and at least get a little bit of respect for all my hard work on this setup.






























P.S.: If you disagree, there is really no need for a heated debate, I'm just stating my position and what I've experienced... if your opinion is different, I can respect that.


_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 12:26 AM 9-19-2007_


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

When people ask me what turbo I have on my car I just say I have an audi tt225 swap. I get more respect that way.


----------



## mk2dub4ever (Oct 22, 2002)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

for anyone that can read in Polish








http://forum.tuning.info.pl/vi...rum=2
so basically the KKK k04-020 is the best one to go with ?


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_
The K04-001 and K04-015 are nothing, all the rest of the K04's - the K04-02x or K04-025 and -026's on 2.7TT's - put out respectable power. So realistically, most K04's do put out decent power, there are only a couple that don't. Nobody ever said they were as powerful as Garret BB turbos, but they definitely aren't nearly as laggy as some turbos that get a lot more respect around here. 


That's cause audi's use 2 of them


----------



## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_When people ask me what turbo I have on my car I just say I have an audi tt225 swap. I get more respect that way.










yeah i say i have a 3071R. people like that too.


----------



## oempls (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (boosted b5)*


_Quote, originally posted by *boosted b5* »_
yeah i say i have a 3071R. people like that too.









Maybe when you get it up and running!


----------



## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

*Re: (Island20V)*

tomorrow.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (boosted b5)*


_Quote, originally posted by *boosted b5* »_yeah i say i have a 3071R. people like that too.









I heard they were extremely laggy on 1.8T's. Only thing better than a K04 on a 1.8T is any turbo that can make more boost starting at the same RPM's. So maybe a GT25 or T04. GT28 maybe. Anything higher and imo it's not going to be fun to drive even if it does make more power.


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_
I heard they were extremely laggy on 1.8T's. Only thing better than a K04 on a 1.8T is any turbo that can make more boost starting at the same RPM's. So maybe a GT25 or T04. GT28 maybe. Anything higher and imo it's not going to be fun to drive even if it does make more power.









Don't forget the T3super60








With the right software/hardware combo you can see full spool by 3400-3600 RPMs with a T3super60. Plus you'll make a good 50-70 more hp and 30-40 more tq than the K04-02x


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_
I heard they were extremely laggy on 1.8T's. Only thing better than a K04 on a 1.8T is any turbo that can make more boost starting at the same RPM's. So maybe a GT25 or T04. GT28 maybe. Anything higher and imo it's not going to be fun to drive even if it does make more power.









please don't say what you have heard, there is proof on these forums especially about turbo's you are talking about...comparing a gt25 or t04 is like apples and oranges...a t04 makes terrible powerband on 1.8T's with a huge power spike...if you want to see how a nice sized turbo performs, check my sig


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_
Don't forget the T3super60








With the right software/hardware combo you can see full spool by 3400-3600 RPMs with a T3super60. Plus you'll make a good 50-70 more hp and 30-40 more tq than the K04-02x









false, more HP but not more TQ


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
false, more HP but not more TQ


Ok I'm with you, I just did some research and it seems most T3s60 setup's dyno in the 275-285 whp and 270-280 wtq range... That means when I upgrade to this turbo I should see anywhere from a 60-75 whp and 15-30 wtq gain over the K04 on pump gas with my water/meth










_Modified by 20vTurboGLI at 3:09 AM 9-20-2007_


----------



## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

i will probably make close to 300whp running off my wastegate (14.7psi), with more power than my k03 made at 7-9psi which comes on around 2300-2800rpm from what i gather
k04's are cool, but i cant see spending the money, just to be limited to under 300whp still. i guess good for a smooth easy powerband and loads of torque down low, but if im going to go through the trouble on swapping turbos and possibly manifolds, im going to go big.


_Modified by boosted b5 at 1:50 AM 9-20-2007_


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_
Ok I'm with you, I just did some research and it seems most T3s60 setup's dyno in the 275-285 whp and 270-280 wtq range... That means when I upgrade to this turbo I should see anywhere from a 60-75 whp and 15-30 wtq gain over the K04 on pump gas with my water/meth









_Modified by 20vTurboGLI at 3:09 AM 9-20-2007_

270wtq these k04-02X should have no problem doing, because a k03 maxed out can get that much tq http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I had just a k03s on my awp motor with an Upsolute chip I got 180whp and 240wtq (stock everything else) UPSOLUTE chip with Exhaust and Intake


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
270wtq these k04-02X should have no problem doing, because a k03 maxed out can get that much tq http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I had just a k03s on my awp motor with an Upsolute chip I got 180whp and 240wtq (stock everything else) UPSOLUTE chip with Exhaust and Intake

Ok... well, I made over 275wtq when I dyno'd my car and it was 94* outside. So I'm making t3s60 wtq. And Frankly I'm betting I get within 20whp of a t3s60 once I get mine tweaked/SW fixed up more. And I don't have WMI or anything special to make that power. If I put WMI on my car I gaurentee I'd see over 300wtq and t3s60whp or so.


----------



## lax1492 (Jan 19, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

this might have been talked about but i cant/ didn't look really hard.... is anyone having a cold start issue with revo ? Then possibly a little bucking until it gets driven a little ?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (lax1492)*


_Quote, originally posted by *lax1492* »_ this might have been talked about but i cant/ didn't look really hard.... is anyone having a cold start issue with revo ? Then possibly a little bucking until it gets driven a little ?

I know I do. I get random misfires occasionally when cold starting and then for the first few mins it's all over the place. I've kind of gotten used to it haha. It's going to be getting real cold soon, so I'm sure it'll get worse.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
Ok... well, I made over 275wtq when I dyno'd my car and it was 94* outside. So I'm making t3s60 wtq. And Frankly I'm betting I get within 20whp of a t3s60 once I get mine tweaked/SW fixed up more. And I don't have WMI or anything special to make that power. If I put WMI on my car I gaurentee I'd see over 300wtq and t3s60whp or so.

Don't guarantee, just do it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif big difference between I can and I DID http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
Ok... well, I made over 275wtq when I dyno'd my car and it was 94* outside. So I'm making t3s60 wtq. And Frankly I'm betting I get within 20whp of a t3s60 once I get mine tweaked/SW fixed up more. And I don't have WMI or anything special to make that power. If I put WMI on my car I gaurentee I'd see over 300wtq and t3s60whp or so.

Regardless, the shape of the power curves will still be different and that T3S60 will hold the torque way out farther into the rpm range than the K04. That makes your claims of meeting the peak numbers meaningless.


----------



## TurboGTi222 (Sep 5, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Regardless, the shape of the power curves will still be different and that T3S60 will hold the torque way out farther into the rpm range than the K04. That makes your claims of meeting the peak numbers meaningless. 
X2. This fact is very overlooked. Peak numbers mean squat.....it's all about how long you can make torque rather than how big of a spike you can make. A car that makes 250 ft/lbs of torque at 3000rpms then holds it until 7k rpms will be faster, and make more usable power than a car that makes 300 ft/lbs at 3000rpms, but then drops off to 180 ft/lbs by 7000 rpms.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (TurboGTi222)*

The k04-20, *UNLIKE the k04-001*, holds the torque and whp it produces throughout the powerband. If you look at the dynos throughout the thread you can see that. This turbo is not like the k04-001 that it produces a spike and then falls on its face. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 2:27 PM 9-20-2007_


----------



## TurboGTi222 (Sep 5, 2006)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

This is the only one I could find (i gave up at pg 45 lol). I know there are more, but IIRC, none of them made much more that this one. I think the highest ko4-20 dyno i recall is 240whp or so. That is NOT holding torque through the rpm range. If the ko4 held it's 280 ft/lbs of torque through the rpm range, then it would make 346whp by redline.


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

Ha, that's my first dyno with the K04. Give me a week and I'll have my second dyno with the W/M kit http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Anyway, looking at this dyno you can see why I'm upgrading to a T3s60... The K04 is a nice upgrade over stock, don't get me wrong. But even with my water/meth kit on the car right now, I doubt I'll see anything over 250 whp. I may see close to 300 wtq, but like someone mentioned already, it doesn't matter much when it's just a spike. If you want proof the K04 just doesn't compare to the T3s60, research trap speeds for both turbo's. You'll find that the highest trap speed to date on the K04-02x was 106 mph. Yeah, that's a good 8-10 mph more than the average chipped stock turbo traps, but it's still not "fast" in my book. Now on the other hand I've seen plenty of T3s60 setups trap 109-112 mph, which is right where I want my car to be. Plus, with the T3s60 I can still use the K04-02x software/injector combo and I should still see full spool my 3500ish RPMs


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (TurboGTi222)*

The torque is a little suspect on that dyno, but the whp on the other hand was very consistant throughout the powerband unlike some k04-001 dynos that claim 220 whp, and when you look at the dyno its a huge spike for about 2 seconds then it falls flat. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I just wanted to differentiate between the k04-001 and k04-20. I'm a fan of the t3super 60 so I can't bash it cause that is going in my other car. But for my daily driver i'll stick with my k04-20. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_please don't say what you have heard, there is proof on these forums especially about turbo's you are talking about...

I didn't research the 3071 because I was told it was too big for a 1.8T. I said that "I heard they were laggy" because my friend just installed one in his customers car and he said it was laggy.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (TurboGTi222)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TurboGTi222* »_This is the only one I could find (i gave up at pg 45 lol). I know there are more, but IIRC, none of them made much more that this one. I think the highest ko4-20 dyno i recall is 240whp or so. That is NOT holding torque through the rpm range. If the ko4 held it's 280 ft/lbs of torque through the rpm range, then it would make 346whp by redline.

Actually WinnersCircle made 258hp without w/m (though there us speculation about a different form of cooling - the kind that cools a fire).








And who knows if it's true cause he won't show us the dynos.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

the new owner has the dynos
i just cooled my IC with a fire extingiusher, maybe good for 1-3hp at max


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_
I didn't research the 3071 because I was told it was too big for a 1.8T. I said that "I heard they were laggy" because my friend just installed one in his customers car and he said it was laggy.









Check my signature. I run a gt3076r and it's not that laggy for me. It's all a matter of preference, comparing to any k04/k03, yes my turbo is laggy! It's all relevant, and you should go based of experience not what your friends brothers girlfriends sister drives, catch my drift? There is tons of proof of these turbo's on this site/forum alone if you look outside of this post http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

Ok guys, here's a quick update before I head out for the evening:
I took the car back to the same dyno tonight to see how much the Water/Meth kit did for me. Overall, I'm quite pleased with the results, I'll post the sheet tomorrow when I get the chance to scan it








Dyno #1:
224 whp / 277 wtq (sheet posted above)
Dyno #2
243 whp / 288 wtq (sheet coming soon)
The water meth really helped out a lot and man the car is pulling like crazy with this colder weather right now. When I get back from H20i I'm gonna try to hit the track to see what kind of traps I can pull http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_224 whp / 277 wtq (sheet posted above)
243 whp / 288 wtq (sheet coming soon)

What do you boost to and when does it start to drop off? Ever since the Forge actuator install, I've been holding 20psi from 3300 to past redline. I think the normal actuator gives away some boost at the beginning and the turbo can barely keep up, then normally it looses it before 6k. The actuator makes it hold totally steady wherever you want it to. I haven't tried above 20psi but it might even be able to hold a little more.
I couldn't recommend it enough, though right now they are talking to England about a problem with the bracket that I showed them. Apparently I was the first to install it here, or at least nobody else reported a pretty big problem with the bracket. I was able to fix it with a dremel but basically I doubt anyone else has bought one from Forge USA before. I doubt someone would spend $190 and not mention that they found a flaw.
So basically I have my doubts about anyone who says they tried it and says it didn't do anything - that is simply false and I have a hard time believing that they even tried it given the above.
Anyway, once they have the ones with the corrected bracket, if you plan on keeping your K04 then you should definitely consider it. I would spend another $190 if I knew I could get this much performance a second time.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

like i said, tried it, and thought it made a diff until my logs proved me wrong, i just wanted to belive it made a diff. cause i spent 160 on mine, i never had a prob with any bracket, mine bolted right up, so did all the ones we installed at PI when they tried them.

one thinkg i noticed was the springs were stiffer by a huge amount, so the spool was increased by a few hundred rpms if that but at that point your just making the trq spike go up (thats why it feels faster to you) but holds the same uptop as before. maybe your wastegate was bad like you thought and a newer one was a fix but for my car along with 2 others, the forge gate was a paper weight


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_
What do you boost to and when does it start to drop off?

When the car was on the Dyno it was spiking 25+ psi, holding 22-23 then slowly falling to 18 at redline. Honestly, I don't think this turbo is meant to handle anything more than 17-18 psi to redline... it might blow up. Either way, I'll be replacing this kit come winter so I'm not really worried about the Forge Wastegate. I just wanted to let everyone know how much of a difference the water/meth kit made


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_one thinkg i noticed was the springs were stiffer by a huge amount, so the spool was increased by a few hundred rpms if that but at that point your just making the trq spike go up (thats why it feels faster to you) but holds the same uptop as before. maybe your wastegate was bad like you thought and a newer one was a fix but for my car along with 2 others, the forge gate was a paper weight

I always hear you saying you've tried everything and I have to say, it is not as important to me as you'd think. I'm not going to let all these claims rain on my parade. I can never verify what you say, you conveniently don't make copies of dyno sheets or keep VAG-COM logs, you don't have a digital camera, etc. Seems like if you don't have all that stuff then how can you know if one product was better than another. But I'm sure you have an answer for that one. Pat said you guys tried them on K04-001's only. I'm not trying to get into a fight here, but it seems to me that you missed the point of the actuator...
According to Forge, and I believe this to be true, the ideal scenario is to run with the stiffer springs and no N75. I can tell you that having the actuator on it's stiffest spring, was the first time I've been able to boost to 20psi, without an N75, and not had insane drivability problems (MBC's for example). And that is only one combination, you can try all kinds of different setups with this actuator that would normally not be possible.
If you don't get anything out of it, that doesn't necessarily mean that I didn't or that I couldn't. I could be wrong, but I have done a few back-to-back tests of the Forge vs the stock and I know it's holding boost better, for much longer, so that should make more power...
I'll be dynoing it and logging it as soon as I have some free time, and that should give us some more concrete information. Until then, I'd like to go on record as having not tried everything, I have lots to learn and mistakes to make and I have no problem admitting it. Not being perfect or having tried anything is far less limiting imo.










_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 6:15 PM 9-22-2007_


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_Ok guys, here's a quick update before I head out for the evening:
I took the car back to the same dyno tonight to see how much the Water/Meth kit did for me. Overall, I'm quite pleased with the results, I'll post the sheet tomorrow when I get the chance to scan it








*Dyno #1:
224 whp / 277 wtq (sheet posted above)
Dyno #2
243 whp / 288 wtq (sheet coming soon)*
The water meth really helped out a lot and man the car is pulling like crazy with this colder weather right now. When I get back from H20i I'm gonna try to hit the track to see what kind of traps I can pull http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


I was expecting higher numbers, especially on water/meth. I wanted to see at least a high 250's whp. Can u advance timing some more? All u need now is a 3 inch exhaust and 100octane in the tank. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif The 3 inch makes some differance up top. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif What you made on water/meth is what we should all be seeing without water/meth.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

A popular topic on here is the possibility that the 2.slow MAF is the same element as the VR6. Is anyone running one of those in a TT/VR6 housing on a Revo chipped K04-02x car? I need to buy a new sensor element and if possible I'd like to just get one from a 2.slow because I can get it from a local shop that has a new. I thought 2.slow MAF's had an extra pin and a diode or resistor or something - Is that true / important / will it work? I had tried a 2.slow MAF with the Revo stage 2 and it didn't work correctly.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_A popular topic on here is the possibility that the 2.slow MAF is the same element as the VR6. Is anyone running one of those in a TT/VR6 housing on a Revo chipped K04-02x car? I need to buy a new sensor element and if possible I'd like to just get one from a 2.slow because I can get it from a local shop that has a new. I thought 2.slow MAF's had an extra pin and a diode or resistor or something - Is that true / important / will it work? I had tried a 2.slow MAF with the Revo stage 2 and it didn't work correctly.










I'm running a 2.0 sensor in my vr6 housing. Same exact sensor. I took them out for comparison and they are the same exact part #. Good thing is i paid 40 bucks from the dealer for it. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif There is a long thread on the vortex about them having the same exact sensors and being interchangeable. I posted about this in the early pages of this thread. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Here are the threads that discuss this.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=827239

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=773176

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 12:38 AM 9-23-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 12:42 AM 9-23-2007_


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

yeah the $40 deal no longer exists. those who stocked up were smart...


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_
I was expecting higher numbers, especially on water/meth. I wanted to see at least a high 250's whp. Can u advance timing some more? All u need now is a 3 inch exhaust and 100octane in the tank. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif The 3 inch makes some differance up top. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif What you made on water/meth is what we should all be seeing without water/meth. 

While I agree with you that my current numbers should be what this kit puts out without w/m I'm still quite pleased. In reality you can't expect to see much more than a 15-20 whp gain from w/m, it seems to be the vortex average anyway. However, not to make excuses or anything, the dyno I'm using is known to read a little low. It's a Dynocom dyno which is supposed to read closer to a Mustang Dyno. In fact, locally this dyno is known as the "heartbreaker" because of it's consistently low numbers. If there were a dynojet near me I'd hit it up for a comparison, but unfortunately there isn't one close by. Basically I'm just using this dyno again to see what the w/m did for me.
To answer your question I can't advance my timing anymore without risk of detonation... I'm pulling 6-8 degrees the way it's setup right now and I don't want to push it any more. My overall BTDC timing curve looks really good right now anyway, It starts at 24-25 and finishes in the same range. Intake temps are staying bewteen 1-3 degrees above ambient which is great (the other night I was logging and the outside temp was 63* while my intake temps were in the 65* - 69* range). The only thing I could really do to try to improve my numbers would be to run more boost. Currently I'm spiking 25-26 and holding 18 at redline... I guess if I really wanted to I could try to spike 27-28 and see what happens, however I don't really want to risk it right now... Overall the car is running great and pulls like crazy. I still think the car (even in heavy GLI form) will trap a 102-103 in the 1/4 mile, and hopefully within the next few weeks I'll get the chance to find out.








Oh and if I were keeping this turbo setup on my car I would definitely be looking for a full 3" exhaust and a Forge Wastegate acutator. However thanks to me graduating from college and my uncontrolable craving more power, come December I'll be upgrading to a T3s60 turbo kit and selling this kit to one of my friends with an 02 GTI. I'll make sure we get dyno numbers from his car once we get the kit installed and tuned, but it'll be a few months before that happens.








I forgot to add that I'll be at H20i if anyone wants to check the setup out in person / go for a ride / offer tuning help /or have a little fun on the highway (I mean closed course)










_Modified by 20vTurboGLI at 3:03 AM 9-23-2007_


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

Can't wait to dyno mine, I still have never done a single run. I currently don't feel comfortable going above 20psi because my turbo is pretty old and is leaking oil, I am saving to get a second K04, then I'll be dynoing it and I'll send this old off to be rebuilt as a backup... It's soo old that it was already leaking when I first got it and I've been pretty hard on it, it's been leaking the whole time, still hasn't given out... All my K03's and K04-001's died the minute they started leaking...








http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_
I still think the car (even in heavy GLI form) will trap a 102-103 in the 1/4 mile, and hopefully within the next few weeks I'll get the chance to find out.








_Modified by 20vTurboGLI at 3:03 AM 9-23-2007_

If you dont trap 103 there is something wrong.








I did a couple of runs the other night (70*ish) and was able to trap 103 everytime regardless how well I launched the car. 
I've got a lingering issue when I go to the track though. Its only ever done it at the track but seems to do it at least once everytime I go. It falls on its face for about 2 seconds when I hit 3rd gear. Like the car is dying out and then it comes back. Im not really sure what it is. Im afraid its w/m related, as it never did it the time I ran w/o w/m. 
My only thing I can possibly think of is, When Im shifting as fast as I can between 2nd and 3rd the nozzle is at full spray. Well when I clutch in and go to shift the car is falling off boost but the throttle is closed. So its still spraying for a short amount of time. So maybe the collected water is causing the engine to hesitate. Only thing I can figure because it never has done it on the street but I never normally shift super crazy fast anyway. I tried it a few times shifting fast but cant get it to do it. Who knows. Its frustrating though when you get a decent launch and are on a good run and you cant finish cause it starts acting up. 
Couldn't muster anything better than 14.0 friday night with a 2.5 60". I managed a 2.3 but then the car acted up.


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## ullbsory1.8t (Apr 9, 2006)

I'm sorry but I havent installed my ko4-20 turbo kit yet on my car. I was wondering what other supporting mods will I need to help make the most power....I'm not sure if I want to sell it or keep it. I have a 337 w/ cai, LIP, 3in DP catlessand a baileys Diverter Valve. I'm in college right nowso I'm in between this and the elimnator kit. Or I will wait to buy a Turbo kit from PPT......


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## ullbsory1.8t (Apr 9, 2006)

Oh and I was planing on going with Unitronics software..... but not sure what size injectors I should go with, and FPR???
























_Modified by ullbsory1.8t at 4:23 PM 9-23-2007_


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

If you're going to use Unitronics software, I'd talk to them about what size injectors and what FPR to use. Most people use stock TT injectors or 380cc injectors with this turbo kit. 
To make the most power with this kit, I'd suggest a full 3" exhaust or at least a 3" downpipe, an upgraded IC, and a water/meth injection kit.
Oh and do yourself a favor, if you have a 6 speed transmission don't even bother with an eliminator kit unless you want to modify the heck out of your car to get the kit to fit... I tried it on my GLI and it was not fun at all. The kit didn't fit right or perform anywhere near where it was supposed to. Stick to the K04-02x kit and let us know how the Unitronics Software works out for you http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_If you're going to use Unitronics software, I'd talk to them about what size injectors and what FPR to use. Most people use stock TT injectors or 380cc injectors with this turbo kit. 
To make the most power with this kit, I'd suggest a full 3" exhaust or at least a 3" downpipe, an upgraded IC, and a water/meth injection kit.
Oh and do yourself a favor, if you have a 6 speed transmission don't even bother with an eliminator kit unless you want to modify the heck out of your car to get the kit to fit... I tried it on my GLI and it was not fun at all. The kit didn't fit right or perform anywhere near where it was supposed to. Stick to the K04-02x kit and let us know how the Unitronics Software works out for you http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


Especially let me know about the Uni. My friend can hook me up locally. I wish he had it before... when I got my frickin Revo. I think Uni said they were going to have to make me a custom file for it... but who knows.


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i never ran my n75, i did for the first 2 days i installed the kit and when scott tuned my car, i held 20+ with or without the n75. i dont knwo why pat would say he never tried them on k0420 cars cause i can list atleast 2 people who watch this thread who had them on their cars.
its a great piece but provided little to no difference in power gains or "freeing up HP"
i never had one prob holding 20 psi plus with my n75, if you dont belive me search back to the pages in the 30's, theres a screen name 045gli i think it was that backed up all my mods and seeing my boost gauge from 0 to redline.
i am not telling you these things to ease your mind or rain on your parade, i am not fixated on doing that, i could care less. i am just informing others that it might not work for them like it has for you, your posts seem to say "this is the problem, and this is how you fix it"
with that said every car is different, i still think if you could not boost 20+ before the forge wg, then thats a good indacation your stock wastegate was bad and thats why you feel such a diff cause you got one that works now, if thats the case then another oem wg woulda done the trick
i also wanna note that with the forge wastegate and the spring i was using, the part throttle was worse than the stocker wg, the stiff spring wanted to boost faster and non stop on my car, this happens on most cars with to stiff of a wastegate
as for the logs and dynosheets, i got nothing to prove nor do i care to share, noone here helped pay for my dyno sheets, the numbers were ok but the greatest, def the highest out of anyone who posted but thats cause scott tuned it then. as for logs, i didnt want a million people asking me questions about them, to be honest i have them saved but i didnt feel it was needed to share them with anyone, as i am sure people will just say there not mine since i didnt post dynos
the locals know how my car ran, lax1492 who is a local knew how my car felt and ran the few times he was in it, he is also a k0420 car so feel free to pm him too. i worked closely with pi and revo on many things that were not offerd to the public since i worked there, and he knew about this too. wether you want to beleive me or not, just ask him


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (ullbsory1.8t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ullbsory1.8t* »_Oh and I was planing on going with Unitronics software..... but not sure what size injectors I should go with, and FPR???























_Modified by ullbsory1.8t at 4:23 PM 9-23-2007_

OEM AUdi TT225 386cc blue tops, USRT stopped making GENESIS for some reason. I would also recommend a full 3 inch exhaust, and 3.5 bar FPR, a USMIC, and the J valve. But thats just what my car likes. Not all cars are the same. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## mk2dub4ever (Oct 22, 2002)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

this part # isnt making much sense to me, what is the exact model of this KO4 ?









5304 950 00 01
HE 50078415 0029
is it the KO4-001 ?


_Modified by mk2dub4ever at 11:42 AM 9-24-2007_


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## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

^ yes ko4. no 20 for you.
_Modified by beachball6 at 9:13 AM 9-24-2007_
edited because i was gonna say something not so nice to someone else. changed my mind.










_Modified by beachball6 at 9:15 AM 9-24-2007_


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (mk2dub4ever)*

Yes that is a k04-001! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## mk2dub4ever (Oct 22, 2002)

*Re: (beachball6)*

well I picked it up for cheap and it will be worth the upgrade over my little kO3 (not ko3s) http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...age=3
check out the last post http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

Those are good numbers We have to get that guy in here.







All we need is a translation of his mods under the dyno. Oh wait those are BHP #'s. What does that translate too? 261bhp x 15% drive train loss= 222 whp?









_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:26 PM 9-24-2007_

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:30 PM 9-24-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:58 AM 9-25-2007_


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_with that said every car is different, i still think if you could not boost 20+ before the forge wg, then thats a good indacation your stock wastegate was bad and thats why you feel such a diff cause you got one that works now, if thats the case then another oem wg woulda done the trick

I was able to hold 20psi but not every time I boosted. I would always boost up to whatever I set it to but it would drop down to 17-18 unless I set it to 23 or more, then it would hold it at 19-20. I'm just saying it is now solidly planted at whatever I set it to, doesn't go up or down.

_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_i also wanna note that with the forge wastegate and the spring i was using, the part throttle was worse than the stocker wg, the stiff spring wanted to boost faster and non stop on my car, this happens on most cars with to stiff of a wastegate

Yes this is true of the strongest spring I'm sure, it's somewhat true of the second strongest (the 17psi spring) but it's totally tolerable imo, unlike (for example) part-throttle surging. But this is why you have different springs, it gives you some choice in the matter. If cranking your wastegate helped then this is a better solution imo.

_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_as for the logs and dynosheets, i got nothing to prove nor do i care to share, noone here helped pay for my dyno sheets, the numbers were ok but the greatest, def the highest out of anyone who posted but thats cause scott tuned it then. as for logs, i didnt want a million people asking me questions about them, to be honest i have them saved but i didnt feel it was needed to share them with anyone, as i am sure people will just say there not mine since i didnt post dynos

That's just plain wierd. Most people want others to see how well they did. It's just really strange that you feel like people should have to pay for your dynos if they want to see them... If you weren't so secretive, then you would probably find that people would believe you more. I know you'll say you don't care but wouldn't it just be better for everyone if there wasn't that extra tension?
Sharing information is part of being an upstanding member of the group. Especially if you make claims that are higher than the norm... it's silly to do so and not back them up.


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_I've got a lingering issue when I go to the track though. Its only ever done it at the track but seems to do it at least once everytime I go. It falls on its face for about 2 seconds when I hit 3rd gear. Like the car is dying out and then it comes back. Im not really sure what it is. Im afraid its w/m related, as it never did it the time I ran w/o w/m. 
My only thing I can possibly think of is, When Im shifting as fast as I can between 2nd and 3rd the nozzle is at full spray. Well when I clutch in and go to shift the car is falling off boost but the throttle is closed. So its still spraying for a short amount of time. So maybe the collected water is causing the engine to hesitate. Only thing I can figure because it never has done it on the street but I never normally shift super crazy fast anyway. I tried it a few times shifting fast but cant get it to do it. Who knows. Its frustrating though when you get a decent launch and are on a good run and you cant finish cause it starts acting up. 

Here's an idea: buy a solenoid such as the one that snow performance sells for the post-tb setup and wire it up to your N249 harness. This way it will stop the w/m pumping during gear changes and the pressure will be extra strong when it comes back after (the pump will have already pressurized the line)... I have the solenoid, I'm going to give it a shot next time I have a moment.


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_









_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:26 PM 9-24-2007_

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:30 PM 9-24-2007_

Anyway what do those BHP #'s translate to? 261 x 15% drive train loss = 222 whp? 
_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:50 AM 9-25-2007_

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:55 AM 9-25-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:59 AM 9-25-2007_


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## TurboGTi222 (Sep 5, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_
Here's an idea: buy a solenoid such as the one that snow performance sells for the post-tb setup and wire it up to your N249 harness. This way it will stop the w/m pumping during gear changes and the pressure will be extra strong when it comes back after (the pump will have already pressurized the line)... I have the solenoid, I'm going to give it a shot next time I have a moment.








I don't think this is his problem. I have thousands of pulls using meth injection, with the injector both before and after the TB, and i have never had any issues like this.


----------



## sotiris (Sep 24, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

this is my dyno with pump mode.....
i have leon4 k04-023 
261 bhp moter
216 bhp wheel power... 
haldex hell...........






















i think tha the vr6TB give nice curve















know i have the new file and i think that i have earn at least 10bhp hp
i have buy forge wg and i wiil put in next week.......

1 bhp = ???whp
























_Modified by sotiris at 6:37 AM 9-25-2007_


----------



## mk2dub4ever (Oct 22, 2002)

*Re: (sotiris)*

$45 ko3/ko4 rebuild kit ?

anyone heard of it? the only usefull parts in that kit are the sleeves it looks like, I thought a properly rebuilt turbo would include the shaft 
http://cgi.ebay.ca/Turbo-Rebui...sting


_Modified by mk2dub4ever at 9:24 AM 9-25-2007_


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (mk2dub4ever)*

http://www.gpopshop.com/kkkkits.html They sell real rebuild kits for kkk turbos. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (TurboGTi222)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TurboGTi222* »_I don't think this is his problem. I have thousands of pulls using meth injection, with the injector both before and after the TB, and i have never had any issues like this.

As many people as there are running it, Ive never heard anyone have this issue either. I suppose there is the possibility of differing amounts of liquid along with different setups. I guess its possible that I could be spraying more than most but I doubt it. Nick is running a larger nozzle than I am and has no issues. Maybe I have the full spray psi lower than I should. I guess Ill raise it some and see what happens. I do think its meth related though. The 1st time I went to the track with just the turbo setup I ran probably 6 times and had no issues. About 1-1/2 months ago I went and it happened atleast twice out of 5-6 runs. Last friday it happened once out of 3 runs. 
If anyone has any other thoughts I would appreciate it. Thanks Derek


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (sotiris)*

*Brake horsepower (bhp)*
Brake horsepower (bhp) is the measure of an engine's horsepower without the loss in power caused by the gearbox, generator, differential, water pump, and other auxiliary components. Thus the prefix "brake" refers to where the power is measured: at the engine's output shaft, as on an engine dynamometer. The actual horsepower delivered to the driving wheels is less. An engine would have to be retested to obtain a rating in another system. The term "brake" refers to the original use of a band brake to measure torque during the test (which is multiplied by the engine RPM and a scaling constant to give horsepower).
*hp (SAE)*
In the United States the term "bhp" fell into disuse after the American Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) recommended manufacturers use hp (SAE) to indicate the net power of the engine, given that particular car's complete engine installation. It measures engine power at the flywheel, not counting drivetrain losses.
Starting in 1971 automakers began to quote power in terms of SAE net horsepower (as defined by standard J1349). This reflected the rated power of the engine in as-installed trim, with all accessories and standard intake and exhaust systems. By 1972, US carmakers quoted power exclusively in SAE net hp. The change was meant to 'deflate' power ratings to assuage the auto insurance industry and environmental and safety lobbies, as well as to obfuscate the power losses caused by emissions-control equipment.
SAE net ratings, while more accurate than gross ratings, still represent the engine's power at the flywheel. Contrary to some reports, it does not measure power at the drive wheels.
Because SAE gross ratings were applied liberally, at best, there is no precise conversion from gross to net. Comparison of gross and net ratings for unchanged engines shows a variance of anywhere from 40 to 150 horsepower. The Chrysler 426 Hemi, for example, in 1971 carried a 425 hp gross rating (often considered to be understated) and a net rating of 375 hp.
*SAE-certified horsepower*
In 2005, the Society of Automotive Engineers introduced a new test procedure for engine horsepower and torque.[6] The procedure eliminates some of the areas of flexibility in power measurement, and requires an independent observer present when engines are measured. The test is voluntary, but engines completing it can be advertised as "SAE-certified".
Many manufacturers began switching to the new rating immediately, often with surprising results. The rated output of Cadillac's supercharged Northstar V8 jumped from 440 hp (328 kW) to 469 hp (350 kW) under the new tests, while the rating for Toyota's Camry 3.0 L 1MZ-FE V6 fell from 210 hp (157 kW) to 190 hp (142 kW). The first engine certified under the new program was the 7.0 L LS7 used in the 2006 Chevrolet Corvette Z06. Certified power rose slightly from 500 hp (373 kW) to 505 hp (377 kW).


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_
Sharing information is part of being an upstanding member of the group. Especially if you make claims that are higher than the norm... it's silly to do so and not back them up.
















YUP i tottaly agree


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

So what would the percentage of drive train loss be on a FWD car? 11-15 %?
If it's 11% then 261bhp x 11% drive train loss = 232whp
If it's 12% then 261bhp x 12% drive train loss = 230whp
If it's 13% then 261bhp x 13% drive train loss = 227 whp
If it's 14% then 261bhp x 14% drive train loss = 224 whp
If it's 15% then 261 bhp x 15% drive train loss =222whp
Regardless of what % of drive train loss from 11-15%, The people who have dynoed on here, and who have actually shown a dyno on 93 oct fall right at or in between 232whp-222 whp. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif So SOTIRIS numbers are accurate. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 3:10 PM 9-25-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 3:11 PM 9-25-2007_


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

I typically use a 11%-13% drivetrain loss on a FWD car. Take a bone stock 1.8T for example, they come from the factory with 180 bhp and usually dyno at 155-160 whp. 
11% drivetrain loss (180*.89) = 160.2
12% drivetrain loss (180*.88) = 158.4
13% drivetrain loss (180*.87) = 156.6


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_I typically use a 11%-13% drivetrain loss on a FWD car. Take a bone stock 1.8T for example, they come from the factory with 180 bhp and usually dyno at 155-160 whp. 
11% drivetrain loss (180*.89) = 160.2
12% drivetrain loss (180*.88) = 158.4
13% drivetrain loss (180*.87) = 156.6

What are the chances that all 1.8t motors make 180 bhp? I dont think its fair to calculate whp from manufacture stated bhp.


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

Well of course there is going to be a slight variance in each different motor. I was just pointing out that on average a stock 1.8T will dyno in the 155-160 whp range. I'm not saying stock engines haven't put down higher numbers (I've seen numbers as high as 165 whp) I'm ust trying to use the average to calculate a rough drivetrain loss. It really doesn't matter to me much since I use the same dyno everytime and use it just to see power gains. We all know that each dyno is gonna read differently.


----------



## sotiris (Sep 24, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

i want to say that the drive train loss depents of the peak of the power...
if the peak is to 7000rmp for example the loss will be 100 hp 
if the peak of power will be at 5000 the loss wiil be 20 hp..... for example
the drive train loss is *curve*,..............
the green line to my dyno "paper"








(i think....!)









_Modified by sotiris at 2:20 PM 9-25-2007_


_Modified by sotiris at 2:23 PM 9-25-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

2306-
i never claimed to make more then norm, just more then whats been posted on this forum, PI has many dynos higher than mine from many other cars with the k04 kit
i also had no surging issues with this kit, the k03s mainly surged cause of the highboost and small wastegate flapper/n75 combo, thats 80 percent of surging issues, but with a larger turbo and flapper this isnt an issue
i dont expect ppl to pay for dynos, they just didnt help me pay for them so i dont feel the need to share, call it what you will


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (sotiris)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sotiris* »_i want to say that the drive train loss depents of the peak of the power...
if the peak is to 7000rmp for example the loss will be 100 hp 
if the peak of power will be at 5000 the loss wiil be 20 hp..... for example
the drive train loss is *curve*,..............
the green line to my dyno "paper"








(i think....!)









_Modified by sotiris at 2:20 PM 9-25-2007_

_Modified by sotiris at 2:23 PM 9-25-2007_

aren't you AWD?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (sotiris)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sotiris* »_i want to say that the drive train loss depents of the peak of the power...
if the peak is to 7000rmp for example the loss will be 100 hp 
if the peak of power will be at 5000 the loss wiil be 20 hp..... for example
the drive train loss is *curve*,..............
the green line to my dyno "paper"








(i think....!)









_Modified by sotiris at 2:20 PM 9-25-2007_

_Modified by sotiris at 2:23 PM 9-25-2007_


So in conclusion, the blue number on your dyno would be the actual whp? 216.6? Because if you say the green is your actual drive train loss at peak bhp, you subtract that from your actual bhp # which is 261 and you get 216 actual whp?







SO the 2 lines (red and blue) you have arrowed in red are your actual numbers!







DOH!










_Modified by 01gtiaww at 7:49 PM 9-25-2007_


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Were doing the install as we speak and ran into a small snag. The banjo bolt for the coolant line interferes with the wastegate rod. Cant get to it. Does it need to be clocked different or something? Thanks


----------



## Maxpowerz (Feb 9, 2004)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bluebomber* »_Were doing the install as we speak and ran into a small snag. The banjo bolt for the coolant line interferes with the wastegate rod. Cant get to it. Does it need to be clocked different or something? Thanks

pics??


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (Maxpowerz)*

No camera till tomorrow.
When you try to tighten the coolant feed the wastegate rod interferes with the banjo and coolant hose from PI so you cant even get to the end of the banjo bolt to tighten it if that makes sense? Im new at the turbo thing so please bear with me. Thanks again


----------



## Maxpowerz (Feb 9, 2004)

what coolant line are you using? stock or something else


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (Maxpowerz)*

Pro-imports kit


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*

Dunno about the PI kit, but before I even put my turbo on, I kind of had the coolant line semi on... if htat makes sense... oil line is a bitch... make sure you do the oil housing first then the turbo side... 
btw, i'm using all oem lines... i think my oil feed line is leaking from the housing... i got mad and just screwed it in with out putting a crush washer on the bottom... go me...


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bluebomber* »_No camera till tomorrow.
When you try to tighten the coolant feed the wastegate rod interferes with the banjo and coolant hose from PI so you cant even get to the end of the banjo bolt to tighten it if that makes sense? Im new at the turbo thing so please bear with me. Thanks again

On your k03s there should have been a spacer. Reuse that spacer and you'll clear the WGA rod. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
On your k03s there should have been a spacer. Reuse that spacer and you'll clear the WGA rod. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


Got it all bolted up(thanks V.R.Lvr) but my GReddy piping is not cooperating. It sits above the rain tray with it shoved as far down as possible, the dv port is in the wrong direction, and the N75 hits the firewall. Is anyone else running a GReddy with this setup? Looks like Im going to have to flatbed it to the welder after I find some bends


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*

Not to mention the crappy fit from the Samco TIP. Does anyone have any pics of the TIP that shows how high it sits? The only way it seems like it going to fit is if the intercooler pipe is actually pushing down on it to keep it from hitting the hood.







Maybe I'll just have a metal one made up. That Samco TIP is just a major clusterfukk









_Modified by Bluebomber at 12:30 AM 9-28-2007_


_Modified by Bluebomber at 12:31 AM 9-28-2007_


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*

It's called cutting some pipe... yeah it pushes it down... BUt i don't think it makes a big diff... Min **** still hits I can take pic of my engine bay tomorrow.


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (bmxp)*

The turbo inlet hose should be soooo far away from the hood it's not even possible for it to be an issue. I mean the TIP isn't long enough to reach the hood. Mine is a good 3-4" away from the hood.
Seems like maybe your greddy piping is cheap and not built correctly or else maybe it's not meant for the K04, maybe it's for a K03 which sits further away from the drivers side.If it is meant for a K03 then you'll need to cut the piping a little shorter.
I bought the K04 IC piping from PI and even that was too long, it causes the turbo outlet hose (the red one) to bind/twist. I would cut it buy I think I'm going to just sell it and make my own.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

Here is a pic of how high the TIP should fit. I have differant setups depending on the weather so i'll show you all so you can see how it should fit with CARBONIO, with short ram, and with FILTER straight on MAF. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif SHort Ram is how I have it currently and I also eliminated my MBC and I am letting the N75 J valve control boost. I was starting to forget how much smoother boost came on WITHOUT the MBC, especially at part throttle.







By the way I am taking LOG requests. Just got my VAGCOM in and this weekend is log TIme!








































_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:23 AM 9-28-2007_

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:35 AM 9-28-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:35 AM 9-28-2007_


----------



## sotiris (Sep 24, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

look and mine...


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (sotiris)*









































There's my setup


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (bmxp)*

Thanks for the pics. Anyone else?
Ive decided to have a new pipe welded up. Everything is just to bunched up for my liking. Bends wont be here till next week though








bmxp out of curiosity how much did you chop off to avoid clearance issues with the hood? I almost took a saw to it late last night but decided against it. Besides I don't want to ruin the resale value







Thanks


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*

I wanna say 2" or so? I was thinking about getting it re welded too... but I"m to lazy and it works...


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (bmxp)*

After I get this taken care of and the car up and running a metal TIP isn't far down the road. I want to clean things up quite a bit and putting the dv and n75 in a better location will do just that. Did you trim the port for the n75 to keep it from rubbing on the firewall?


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*

Mine never touched at all...
And as far as making a metal inlet pipe... I think you are investing way more money than what it's worth...


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (bmxp)*


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (loudgli)*

Nice! That's the route I want to take as well http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*

After I posted that I remembered I changed the routing just a bit. I took some pics this morning. Hope it helps. The dv to charge pipe hose is just a cut up stock hose.


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (loudgli)*

I want to use the stock TT airbox. Do I need to buy the entire box or can I get away with just the top portion? I know they look alike but just want to be sure. Thanks


----------



## sotiris (Sep 24, 2007)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*

here in greece the tt box have 90 euro ....
before i buy the TTDA filter ....I had the oem (180hp) box and simply I had opened the hole in lathe so that fit the big maf....
(you open the hole eccentrically so that it can bolt one screw of maf in the box)


_Modified by sotiris at 3:30 AM 10-7-2007_


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

just the top is fine


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Does anyone have one laying around? Thanks

_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_just the top is fine


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*

Im pretty sure I do. Ill check for you tomorrow


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i do, i also have a rare mann high flow filter, usually only sold overseas under there highperformance line that fits the airbox


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

I appreciate the offer but I was able to find one locally. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*

Anyone have a part# for the injector seats? I have 06B 133 555 C and they just dont seem to fit right.








Im using the TT225 injectors(blue ones) Thanks


_Modified by Bluebomber at 6:45 PM 10-10-2007_


----------



## GiacGtiAgain (Nov 8, 2006)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*

dyno?


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

they all fit, just use some rtv and thread it in righ


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (GiacGtiAgain)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GiacGtiAgain* »_dyno?

If you look a few pages back you will see like 4 new dynos posted!


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i am going to build a k0420 mk2 car


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_i am going to build a k0420 mk2 car

My friend is building an mk1 k04-20. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Is anyone running a 3" GHL dp and the ProImports up-pipe and having an issue with the dp hitting the firewall? My dp actually rests against the firewall


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bluebomber* »_Is anyone running a 3" GHL dp and the ProImports up-pipe and having an issue with the dp hitting the firewall? My dp actually rests against the firewall










I had that same problem with my setup. I'm running a 2.5" GHL downpipe with the Pro-Imports K04 up-pipe and I actually had to have one of the flanges cut off the up-pipe and rewelded at a different angle in order to move my downpipe away from the firewall. I just couldn't handle the sound of the downpipe hitting the firewall with every shift or sudden accleration...


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bluebomber* »_Is anyone running a 3" GHL dp and the ProImports up-pipe and having an issue with the dp hitting the firewall? My dp actually rests against the firewall










I run a 3 inch GHL DP and PI uppipe and EURO JET 3 inch CATBACK with no issues at all. I get no rubbing at all. If I can I will post up some pics later on when I get home. 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:27 AM 10-12-2007_


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Mines not hitting but it actually rests against the firewall. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif So do you think it was welded up wrong? 


_Modified by Bluebomber at 7:22 AM 10-12-2007_


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i ran a 42dd tb since i was there shop car at one point


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_i ran a 42dd tb since i was there shop car at one point

Mine was sitting against the firewall too. I agree that the newer up-pipes are welded wrong... 
It only cost me $35 to have someone hack the flange and reweld it though, so it wasn't too big of a deal.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

tell pi itt hits, theyll replace it i am sure


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_tell pi itt hits, theyll replace it i am sure

The problem is they don't make it, GHL actually makes it. So in order to "exchange" it you would have to send it PI in MD who will send it to GHL in Arizona. Then you'd have to wait for it to ship back to you from GHL. 
Either way, I think you're better off having an exhaust shop tweak it enough to make it fit properly. It will take less time and hassle.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_
The problem is they don't make it, GHL actually makes it. So in order to "exchange" it you would have to send it PI in MD who will send it to GHL in Arizona. Then you'd have to wait for it to ship back to you from GHL. 
Either way, I think you're better off having an exhaust shop tweak it enough to make it fit properly. It will take less time and hassle.

i know ghl makes it, i was the one who shed some light on the fact 45 pages ago. but PI has many on hand they can exchange it for, i have seen it done before but if they told you they cant then i guess they didnt want to


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Has anyone seen any little inserts on the top of the turbine side where the turbo bolts go in? I can't figure out what's going on w/mine? I had to drop my turbo down and now the damn thing won't go back on b/c there are these little washer like things stuck on the bolts just below the gasket (which I can only assume came out of the turbo). I've been fighting with it for 2 whole days. I really can't have this down time. If I could get the manifold out I'm sure I could figure it out, but that's too tight and the turbo blocks too many nuts. Basically I'm SOL right now and REALLY need help.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Hopefully you have not stripped them out, cause then you'll really have some downtime. I stripped them out on my first k04-20, but since I bought it new, i sent it back and they send me another one.







I know a couple of guys on here have had bad experiances with those inserts. Hopefully they will chime in, or you can search for the archived threads they posted about the issue. I know I called PI and asked them about those and they had no clue what I was talking about.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_Hopefully you have not stripped them out, cause then you'll really have some downtime. I stripped them out on my first k04-20, but since I bought it new, i sent it back and they send me another one.







I know a couple of guys on here have had bad experiances with those inserts. Hopefully they will chime in, or you can search for the archived threads they posted about the issue. I know I called PI and asked them about those and they had no clue what I was talking about.

Yeah, I believe I am the first to mention it in this thread? I don't really know what to search as I tried all of the variations I could think of. But, I really need a part number. I'm going to call BW today and see if I can get some. I work 5 days this week... and have no car. It's going to be a mess. Not to mention it seems as though they are stuck on the turbo bolts. So I'm going to try large vice grips on them and see if they won't come out. And if that fails I'm cutting them out. Such a dumb design. I mean, you can't really damage the turbo permanently with this setup, but at the same time the inserts came out just by taking out turbo bolts. That sucks. Maybe BW will just give me a new turbo. Even though I don't have that kind of down time. haha... and didn't buy it new.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

pi sells inserts fyi


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

I had to get my insert machined, it was hella loose and bolts fell out. Now its good as new


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Does anyone have a part number or anything for the inserts? My car has been down since Friday. I really need them like yesterday.

Edit: Pat said Borg Warner has been weird lately and the moral of the story is that they don't have any extras anymore.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

u need a bg part number and order from them, there will be no vw part number
i just used ones from a trashed ko3 before


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

My k03s had the bolt threads machined into the turbine housing. No inserts... or they would have been stolen by now. I would use those then just replace them later.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

trasverse k03, from a4 or pasat, from a earlier model


----------



## ullbsory1.8t (Apr 9, 2006)

does anyone on here have the piping that I can run the k04-20 back to the stock intercooler plumbing????


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (ullbsory1.8t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ullbsory1.8t* »_does anyone on here have the piping that I can run the k04-20 back to the stock intercooler plumbing????

I'm pretty sure all you need is the red 90* coupler from an audi TT 225. I may be wrong since 90% of the people in this thread, inlcuding myself, use an aftermarket IC and had to come up with different pieces...


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_
I'm pretty sure all you need is the red 90* coupler from an audi TT 225. I may be wrong since 90% of the people in this thread, inlcuding myself, use an aftermarket IC and had to come up with different pieces...

That's not correct about the stock piping. 
I am using my stock charge piping b/c I didn't like PI's 2.5" into 2" IC piping. Mine is straight 2". Anyhow, you need to lengthen it a good few inches and actually add to the height a few good inches as well. Also, then you'll need to change the way it goes into the LIP b/c otherwise it's just the wrong angle. So really you're going to somewhat have to reinvent it. I think I ended up spending right around $200 paying people to weld/change mine until I got it right. And even now it's not perfect, but I could get one fabbed up ideally if I wanted to drop a few hundred on it.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

theres nothing wrong with the pi charge pipe, i made all great numbers with it, people think that since the sizes are wack that its gonna effect anything, but it doesnt
stock need some work to get it to fit right like above but you need the stock audi 90 degree elbow
pi sells them on ebay sometimes for alittle cheaper than the website does


----------



## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

*Re: (loudgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_After I posted that I remembered I changed the routing just a bit. I took some pics this morning. Hope it helps. The dv to charge pipe hose is just a cut up stock hose. 


















Can you show me some pics of the oil breather setup?
I'm also building a k04-023 setup








http://www.youtube.com/hidromail
See sig for some pics http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (HidRo)*

You can ditch the oil breather and run a hose straight from a catch can to the intake. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_You can ditch the oil breather and run a hose straight from a catch can to the intake. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 









But I would have to get a catch can than.
What does that flying saucer like thing works?


----------



## VRsixed (Oct 25, 1999)

*Re: (HidRo)*

Is the Pro-Imports up-pipe the only option to connect the turbo to the mkiv gti downpipe? does any company make anything similiar, or will the downpipe off of anything else work


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (VRsixed)*

Only Pro Imports makes it. Unless you want to have a custom one fabbed up by an exhaust shop. I had an extra one but sold it to one of the guys on here for 100 bucks brand new. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif You can also get the one off an audi TT 225 and fab it to fit.


----------



## VRsixed (Oct 25, 1999)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

where can one buy the flanges to have one fabbed up, i've had trouble trying to find them


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (VRsixed)*

Just get one off an audi tt 225 and cut the flange off.


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_Just get one off an audi tt 225 and cut the flange off.

In fact I still have my 225 TT DP with a 3 bolt flange on it so you would just have to get piping mated up to it...


----------



## VRsixed (Oct 25, 1999)

*Re: (bmxp)*

does anyone have a pic of what the pro-import up-pipe looks like when in place?


----------



## VdubSingh (Sep 1, 2007)

*Re: (VRsixed)*

anyone selling their PI up-pipe and also PI charge pipe?!? cash in hand


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (VdubSingh)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VdubSingh* »_anyone selling their PI up-pipe and also PI charge pipe?!? cash in hand

I believe if you call Pro Imports they will sell you these pieces seperatly. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## VdubSingh (Sep 1, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

they are expnsive! like 250 for the adapotor up-pipe and something around that price or more for the charge pipe
trying to see if anyone has something used to help me save a few dollars..
thank you though! 
also will the stock 225 oil and coolant lines for the turbo work when i install it on my 20th, or do i need to get the new lines from pro-imports also


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (VdubSingh)*

I use OEM oil and coolant lines from the audi tt 225. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## VdubSingh (Sep 1, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_I use OEM oil and coolant lines from the audi tt 225. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

thank god! so thats a little cash i have saved!


----------



## ullbsory1.8t (Apr 9, 2006)

Alright I have the turbo, manifold, oil and coolant lines, stabilizing bracket, vr MAF housing, turbo inlet pipe and flange for the downpipe. If I'm correct all I need is injectors and the red elbow to bolt back up to my stock intercooler piping so I can run an upgraded SMIC???? let me know if I'm missing anything.....


----------



## VdubSingh (Sep 1, 2007)

*Re: (ullbsory1.8t)*

all you need is that red silicon 90deg peice and stock intercooler pipe will work???


----------



## ullbsory1.8t (Apr 9, 2006)

Is that a definite???


----------



## VdubSingh (Sep 1, 2007)

*Re: (ullbsory1.8t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ullbsory1.8t* »_Is that a definite???


----------



## ullbsory1.8t (Apr 9, 2006)

and what TIP OR TIH should I get TT VERSION OR THE THE ONE THAT COMES FOR OUR CAR???


----------



## ullbsory1.8t (Apr 9, 2006)

(the silicone)


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (ullbsory1.8t)*

The stock intercooler piping that comes on the GTI/JETTA will NOT work without heavy modification. The TIP needs to be one for an audi TT 225. You need EVERYTHING off an AUDI TT 225. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## VdubSingh (Sep 1, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_The stock intercooler piping that comes on the GTI/JETTA will NOT work without heavy modification. The TIP needs to be one for an audi TT 225. You need EVERYTHING off an AUDI TT 225. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

does anyone reccomend that because ill be upgrading my upper intercooler pipe with Pro-imports, should i also upgrade my stock pancake pipe with something like the ABD or GHL lower intercooler pipe?
i have the evoms FMIC, and forge boost hose kit with throttle body relocation to cold side 

Also what injectors are better, the OEM blue ones, or Geniss 380cc


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (VdubSingh)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VdubSingh* »_
does anyone reccomend that because ill be upgrading my upper intercooler pipe with Pro-imports, should i also upgrade my stock pancake pipe with something like the ABD or GHL lower intercooler pipe?
i have the evoms FMIC, and forge boost hose kit with throttle body relocation to cold side 

Also what injectors are better, the OEM blue ones, or Geniss 380cc

The stock pancake pipe flows as well as either of the 2 after market ones you mentioned and fhas better fitment also.
The OEM blue injecotrs have a different spray pattern than the Genesis injectors and are better suited for a 20v head


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Oh, has anyone bettered my ET from last year?







I hope so


----------



## VdubSingh (Sep 1, 2007)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

slo I pm'd u


----------



## VdubSingh (Sep 1, 2007)

*Re: (VdubSingh)*

Will the OEM TT225 Charge pipe work?


----------



## ullbsory1.8t (Apr 9, 2006)

So i am gonna have to fabricate something so I can run my stock smic???


----------



## VRsixed (Oct 25, 1999)

*Re: (ullbsory1.8t)*

has anyone had an up-pipe fabricated?


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

to sharp of an agle and lack of flanges for any shop really to bend


----------



## VRsixed (Oct 25, 1999)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

does the up-pipe make more than a 90 deg bend


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (VdubSingh)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VdubSingh* »_they are expnsive! like 250 for the adapotor up-pipe and something around that price or more for the charge pipe
trying to see if anyone has something used to help me save a few dollars..
thank you though! 
also will the stock 225 oil and coolant lines for the turbo work when i install it on my 20th, or do i need to get the new lines from pro-imports also 


I think I'm the only one who couldn't use the OEM oil return line. My car has a hybrid oil pan. I don't know if 20ths do, but if so then you'll need a different oil return line. I had to hack my stock on apart.
Also, for anyone thinking of trying to reuse their stock IC piping, it gets pretty expensive to get it modified. I think I ended up dropping close to $200 to get it set up. What's better is I've been really considering going w/a new FMIC (currently APR) which would then render all that money spent worthless. The PI one would save some time. As I had mentioned before, I just don't like the design of the 2.5" off the turbo outlet back into the 2" and then pancake. Less changing in sizes FTW.


----------



## VdubSingh (Sep 1, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I have an evoms FMIC like the APR so im pretty much forced to come back down to the tiny size..ive heard that its better because there is less PSI drop? and that the k04-20 isnt that much bigger that 2.5 all the way around would be better..
then i was thinking that i would just run the lower intercoolerpipe from GHL, and then i heard that they flow the same as the pancake pipe..

anyone selling their Pro-Imports Charge pipe? i have cash in hand ready to buy!


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (VdubSingh)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VdubSingh* »_I have an evoms FMIC like the APR so im pretty much forced to come back down to the tiny size..ive heard that its better because there is less PSI drop? and that the k04-20 isnt that much bigger that 2.5 all the way around would be better..
then i was thinking that i would just run the lower intercoolerpipe from GHL, and then i heard that they flow the same as the pancake pipe..

anyone selling their Pro-Imports Charge pipe? i have cash in hand ready to buy! 

the outlet on the ko4-02x is 2.25. If your going custom, I would run 2.25 right up to the IC, then reduce to 2" right before the IC with a smooth transition, to speed airflow into the IC.
Yes, the stock pancake pipe flows as well as the GHL, with no tire rub.


----------



## VdubSingh (Sep 1, 2007)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

what size is the pro-imports pipe?


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

2.5


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

yes the uppipe makes more than a 90 degree, you need expensive tooling to do it most shops do not have
i ran the bf smic with my k0420 gti and used the stock pancake and pi upper charger pipe no probs, ran and spooled fine
also i used the areoqiup stuff for the return, i liked it and it was gasketless 
thinking back i miss it but i still would have done it over with a bigger turbo, to me it was more like going to a chipped gti and getting chipped all over again from their, god a sem would be awsome in a mk2 or mk1, i think i am going to do it just for the haters

_Modified by 200320thAE2632 at 9:15 PM 10-21-2007_


_Modified by 200320thAE2632 at 9:16 PM 10-21-2007_


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

I run PI upper intercooler pipe and GHL lower intercooler piping into a TYROL SPORT USMIC. I have 18 inch BBS RC and I get no rubbing at all from the GHL lower intercooler piping. Runs fine. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

any of you guys running aftermarket fuel pumps? im still running stock, and looking to pick up a 225 walboro fuel pump...any thoughts?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

I run an apr stage 3 fuel pump. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_I run an apr stage 3 fuel pump. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Isn't that just a TT225 pump?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Yes, but its modified. The AUDI TT 225 pump has 2 nipples for the split tanks that comes on the audi tt 225. The APR stage 3 pump is the AUDI tt 225 pump with one nipple for the single tank. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## VdubSingh (Sep 1, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

is anyone in here running the Unitronics soft with their k04-20?
if soo how is it???


----------



## ullbsory1.8t (Apr 9, 2006)

I'd like to know, I was planning on running the same SW on my car.....


----------



## VdubSingh (Sep 1, 2007)

*Re: (ullbsory1.8t)*

im thinking about it..but i would like to know what ppl think of it so i can decide what soft to go with!


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (VdubSingh)*

Only 2 people run it on here and they are both from GREECE and never come on. I wanted to go with UNITRONIC but when I got my K04-20 they did not have SW for it. Now they do. I would go with UNITRONIC. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## ullbsory1.8t (Apr 9, 2006)

you sound like a smart guy and your from NY, I think I will go with them....


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (ullbsory1.8t)*

I think UNITRONIC is the best SW company out there right now. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_I think UNITRONIC is the best SW company out there right now. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

I absolutely would have Uni if I could get my money back from Revo.
Also, if anyone needs any turbo thread inserts, in about a week I'll have a bunch of extras. I am paying to get them machined and for me to get a bunch extra is only a little bit more vs getting them made at all - so I'll be selling off some extras. Obviously if anyone needs any I'll help them out. My car has been apart since the 12th b/c no one has these (or is willing to share them). So I'll help someone else so they don't have this BS to go through.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Now, some of the new guys looking to install the k04-20 can mess up their installs without any worries







. I predict that you will be getting rid of those inserts quickly. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I'll probably buy a set from you just in case. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_Now, some of the new guys looking to install the k04-20 can mess up their installs without any worries







. I predict that you will be getting rid of those inserts quickly. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I'll probably buy a set from you just in case. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Pricing looks like it'll run right around $20-25/set if anyone is interested. Plus what it costs for me to ship them to you, so I'm estimating $10/insert i.e. $30/set. Let me just say that to get them machined for 3 of them I was going to be paying $30-40/insert. So, if anyone has any ideas about any, let me know now while I can add more to my order.


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I've been doing some logging with my setup.
TT 3" MAF, TT injectors, 4 bar, GIAC software
My fuel trims have been awful. Keep in mind I drive my car hard and boost pretty much everywhere.

-18.8% averaging 18 MPG per tank
I recently swapped back in the 3 bar FPR and fuel trims have dropped to about to -8 %. I've seen a small increase in MPG but I haven't calculated it enough times to get an exact number and I reset the ECM (seem to get crappy MPG when car is adapting).
I still have not been able to figure out why the boost drops to 15psi at redline. Requested boost at that point appears to be 18-19 psi. Still got the MBC to install and upgrade all my clamps to T-bolts (maybe a high psi boost leak?) and triple check the exhaust manifold nuts. Car makes full boost at 3400 RPM (3200 RPM on very cold days) and holds 18-19 psi about 54xx RPM and tapers down to 15/14 @ redline. I also played with the wastegate which seemed to make me spike higher but provided no difference in redline boost. Also the car definetly holds more boost at redline in higher gears. In 5th/6th gear it will make 16 psi at redline - not that I've ever redlined my car in 6th gear










_Modified by TooLFan46n2 at 7:40 PM 10-24-2007_


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_I've been doing some logging with my setup.
TT 3" MAF, TT injectors, 4 bar, GIAC software
My fuel trims have been awful. Keep in mind I drive my car hard and boost pretty much everywhere.

-18.8% averaging 18 MPG per tank
I recently swapped back in the 3 bar FPR and fuel trims have dropped to about to -8 %. I've seen a small increase in MPG but I haven't calculated it enough times to get an exact number and I reset the ECM (seem to get crappy MPG when car is adapting).
I still have not been able to figure out why the boost drops to 15psi at redline. Requested boost at that point appears to be 18-19 psi. Still got the MBC to install and upgrade all my clamps to T-bolts (maybe a high psi boost leak?) and triple check the exhaust manifold nuts. Car makes full boost at 3400 RPM (3200 RPM on very cold days) and holds 18-19 psi about 54xx RPM and tapers down to 15/14 @ redline. I also played with the wastegate which seemed to make me spike higher but provided no difference in redline boost.

Ok.....
1) GIAC sw was written for a 3bar. Keep the 3 bar in the fuel rail of that's what the sw was written for. Your fuel trims were f*cked because the ECU was trying to take out the 25% extra fuel you were putting in by using the 4bar.















2) The boost tapers off to 14-15 psi on the pump gas program. it's fine, again the way the sw ws written. If you have the race gas program, it will stay @ 19psi until redline. If you have it, but haven't tried the race gas program, I suggest you do. You will see the difference in the way the boost tapers.
3) Search my posts in this thread and you will see that I had already discussed the boost issue in this thread.
4) Put slicks on the car, take it to the track and break my ko4-023 ET "record".







It's been a year and a half and nobody seems able to break it. You run the good sw, now use it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by SloJTI at 6:47 PM 10-24-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Ok, I don't feel like looking back, but what are the records for this setup currently? Fastest ET? Highest trap? Most HP (w/added cooling (wmi/n20/c02)), Most Tq (w/added cooling), Most HP & TQ, etc...
Anyone know the stats off the top of their head? Would be kind of interesting to set some goals for people maybe?


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
Ok.....
1) GIAC sw was written for a 3bar. Keep the 3 bar in the fuel rail of that's what the sw was written for. Your fuel trims were f*cked because the ECU was trying to take out the 25% extra fuel you were putting in by using the 4bar.















2) The boost tapers off to 14-15 psi on the pump gas program. it's fine, again the way the sw ws written. If you have the race gas program, it will stay @ 19psi until redline. If you have it, but haven't tried the race gas program, I suggest you do. You will see the difference in the way the boost tapers.
3) Search my posts in this thread and you will see that I had already discussed the boost issue in this thread.
4) Put slicks on the car, take it to the track and break my ko4-023 ET "record".







It's been a year and a half and nobody seems able to break it. You run the good sw, now use it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by SloJTI at 6:47 PM 10-24-2007_

Haha okay I thought the software was written for the 4bar, well that solves that problem. The boost issue I've discussed before and haven't gotten that response. I'm pretty sure from the boost logs I took (awhile ago) that the car is not meeting requested boost up top. And Revo guys are making more boost and I know GIAC software for the TT225 *supposely* makes 18psi at redline. I do have the 100 octane file but haven't tried it out yet. If what your saying is true then I should be able to maintain 18 psi to redline with a mbc.
I also get a strange *hiccup* when full boost onsets. I'm going to take a video of it but I'll describe it. Roll onto the throttle at say 3k. Boost spikes 21ish psi for a second and when the car hits 4k you can actually see the RPMS stop climbing, the Revs may actually dip a 1-200 RPM backwards! This only seems to happen in 3rd gear maybe 4th. 1 & 2 go by so quick and I don't seem to notice it in 5th and 6th. Other than that the drivebility of the software seems great. Once it stops raining I'll try to get it on film.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_
Haha okay I thought the software was written for the 4bar, well that solves that problem. The boost issue I've discussed before and haven't gotten that response. I'm pretty sure from the boost logs I took (awhile ago) that the car is not meeting requested boost up top. And Revo guys are making more boost and I know GIAC software for the TT225 *supposely* makes 18psi at redline. I do have the 100 octane file but haven't tried it out yet. If what your saying is true then I should be able to maintain 18 psi to redline with a mbc.
I also get a strange *hiccup* when full boost onsets. I'm going to take a video of it but I'll describe it. Roll onto the throttle at say 3k. Boost spikes 21ish psi for a second and when the car hits 4k you can actually see the RPMS stop climbing, the Revs may actually dip a 1-200 RPM backwards! This only seems to happen in 3rd gear maybe 4th. 1 & 2 go by so quick and I don't seem to notice it in 5th and 6th. Other than that the drivebility of the software seems great. Once it stops raining I'll try to get it on film.


So... uh... how is your clutch? Kind sounds like @ peak torque you're maybe getting some slipping or something? I don't think it's possible that you lose RPMs because of SW. Also, I think my car is holding 1.2 bar @ redline now IIRC. Probably will hold more once I get it running again. I'll give a review on my take on the Forge wastegate actuator as soon as I get the chance to.


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_

So... uh... how is your clutch? Kind sounds like @ peak torque you're maybe getting some slipping or something? I don't think it's possible that you lose RPMs because of SW. Also, I think my car is holding 1.2 bar @ redline now IIRC. Probably will hold more once I get it running again. I'll give a review on my take on the Forge wastegate actuator as soon as I get the chance to.

Good question, my clutch pedal is slightly heavy (most glide with ease). I've never knowenly felt it slip, thats a possibility but wouldn't the RPMS rise? It still seems to grab like a mother to me but I know from the pedal pressure that its not 100%


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_If what your saying is true then I should be able to maintain 18 psi to redline with a mbc.

Just watch your a/f if you run the mbc.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

My REVO pretty much holds 18 close to the end, but eventually it does tapper off to around 16 at the very end. RIght now I am running the stock F valve, 3 bar and no MBC. So, I just spike at 18, hold that as mentioned above, then it tappers off to 16 at the end. I have noticed that in this "stock" configuration it feels so much smoother throughout. My fav configuration would have to be J valve @ 3 bar with MBC set to spike at 22. I will be running some logs with this "stock" configuration. What logs do you guys want to see??


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Has anyone here run an HKS SSQV w/their k04 Revo SW? I tried running mine w/my cold side relocation and it wasn't working out so well for some reason? Now I'm probably going to put it up for sale, but I'd really like to run a BOV


----------



## UnoQuickDub (Feb 16, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Has anyone here run an HKS SSQV w/their k04 Revo SW? I tried running mine w/my cold side relocation and it wasn't working out so well for some reason? Now I'm probably going to put it up for sale, but I'd really like to run a BOV

I'll buy it off of you


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (UnoQuickDub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *UnoQuickDub* »_
I'll buy it off of you

Not if I beat you to it


----------



## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

I know alot of guys are having some problems with this setup and generally, when people put their heads together, progress gets made. I would like to share my problem in hope that we can figure out what the heck is going on with my car. 
Ok so here goes.
*Mods:*
Pro Imports k04-20 Kit
tt MAF
"custom" intake
Forge TT TIP
"white top" injectors (came with the kit)
4bar FPR
Powergasket
Revo Software
MBC set at about 22
n75 still electronically plugged in
BFSM! Intercooler with water mister
GHL Upper and Lower IC piping
Heat wrapped IC piping
Bypassed n249
vented catchcan setup
3" cat-less DP
2.5" side exit exhaust with resonator
Ground Wire kit
I think thats everything in my engine bay...
Anywho, for some reason, my car works/runs alot better and alot smoother with my MAF UNPLUGGED. As soon as i plug my MAF in, my car begins to studder, gets boost creep, and has virtually no mid-throttle. It becomes a hassle to drive. I thought the MAF broke, which it did (hence my CEL's)thats why i unplugged it in the first place. But then i got a new one from pro imports and it ran the same as the old one. When i unplug it, my car runs and pulls like a dream and does it smoother than butter. But in all its goodness, it seem like its running hella hella ritch. The car smells like a gas station and smokes a tad under WOT. I noticed a maybe 5-10 mile drop off of each tank. That doesnt really bother me, i just want this car to last and i want to make sure that running it with out an MAF is ok. i am going to try to snap in a 3bar and see how it runs with that. 
ANY HELP WITH THIS IS MUCH APPRECIATED! THANKS


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

pi specified to run a 3 bar with the white tops


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Fuze911)*

My kit came with the white tops too, but I switched them out after a month of problems. You should try differant injectors, 3 bar FPR, no MBC, stock n75 valve, VR6/2.0 sensor and vr6 housing. Basically go back to the "stock PI" configuration and go from there. That is what i did and now it runs perfect. Have you ran logs? U should run with a MAF. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 4:14 PM 10-25-2007_


----------



## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

No logs, i dont have a vagcom cable...
The point is that my car is running great! better than ever with any other configuration i had. I dont mind the CEL either. I just want to make sure im not going to kill it. 
as for the 4bar, PI installed it after the 3bar was giving me problems. 
Also, with just software (no mbc), i get SUPER bad boost creep. were talking off the boost gauge in 4th and 5th...PI couldnt fix the problem so i just run the MBC. They told me it could be because of my Super Free flowing exhaust.


----------



## 2002_Turbo (Nov 30, 2004)

*Re: (VdubSingh)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VdubSingh* »_what size is the pro-imports pipe?

get ready for a lot of Cel's due to 02 censors, if you haven't taken them off...


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (2002_Turbo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2002_Turbo* »_
get ready for a lot of Cel's due to 02 censors, if you haven't taken them off...


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: (Fuze911)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Fuze911* »_
Anywho, for some reason, my car works/runs alot better and alot smoother with my MAF UNPLUGGED. As soon as i plug my MAF in, my car begins to studder, gets boost creep, and has virtually no mid-throttle. It becomes a hassle to drive. I thought the MAF broke, which it did (hence my CEL's)thats why i unplugged it in the first place. But then i got a new one from pro imports and it ran the same as the old one. When i unplug it, my car runs and pulls like a dream and does it smoother than butter. But in all its goodness, it seem like its running hella hella ritch. The car smells like a gas station and smokes a tad under WOT. I noticed a maybe 5-10 mile drop off of each tank. That doesnt really bother me, i just want this car to last and i want to make sure that running it with out an MAF is ok. i am going to try to snap in a 3bar and see how it runs with that. 
ANY HELP WITH THIS IS MUCH APPRECIATED! THANKS









Mine does the exact same thing


----------



## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_
Mine does the exact same thing









ok thats a step forward, maybe we can help each other. anyone else have any input?


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (Fuze911)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Fuze911* »_
ok thats a step forward, maybe we can help each other. anyone else have any input?

2 things I would try: N75 J-valve and playing with the wastegate. On my k03 setup the J valve definetly helped a little with boost creep and then adjusting the wastegate seemed to nearly get rid of it. I've yet to run the stock valve on the k04 so I have no idea how that compares though I've read most people like the stock valve better on the k04.
Now I'm talking boost creep under light throttle load. In my experience (ko3) if you tried to hold anything part throttle over 5 psi it will spike up. On the k04 I can effectively hold up to 7 psi part throttle and light loads without it spiking up. Anything over 7 it will spike up to or sometimes past 20 psi.

GTIAWW: I would like to see logs of requested/actual boost, timing curve and MAF Grams. Anyway you could do a comparison between MBC and the N75. I plan to do some logging myself again but I've been busy and it will be awhile till I get around to wiring up the MBC.
GLIKo4Dubdude: What problems are you having with the HKS? Maybe take it apart and check the internal seals? Mine works great I was having a problem with it sticking once and had to tear it apart, reseat some things and reassemble it and haven't had a problem since.


_Modified by TooLFan46n2 at 6:51 PM 10-25-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_
2 things I would try: N75 J-valve and playing with the wastegate. On my k03 setup the J valve definetly helped a little with boost creep and then adjusting the wastegate seemed to nearly get rid of it. I've yet to run the stock valve on the k04 so I have no idea how that compares though I've read most people like the stock valve better on the k04.
Now I'm talking boost creep under light throttle load. In my experience (ko3) if you tried to hold anything part throttle over 5 psi it will spike up. On the k04 I can effectively hold up to 7 psi part throttle and light loads without it spiking up. Anything over 7 it will spike up to or sometimes past 20 psi.

GTIAWW: I would like to see logs of requested/actual boost, timing curve and MAF Grams. Anyway you could do a comparison between MBC and the N75. I plan to do some logging myself again but I've been busy and it will be awhile till I get around to wiring up the MBC.
*GLIKo4Dubdude:* What problems are you having with the HKS? Maybe take it apart and check the internal seals? Mine works great I was having a problem with it sticking once and had to tear it apart, reseat some things and reassemble it and haven't had a problem since.

_Modified by TooLFan46n2 at 6:51 PM 10-25-2007_

Me? haha jk. Um, right now when I am out driving at very light throttle the HKS doesn't seem to want to open and surges lightly. Then if I go hard into the throttle and then stop the car will just stall. However, I must say that overall it seemed to hold boost better than my DV. FWIW.


----------



## imola337gti (Oct 22, 2007)

*Re: The Official Ko4-02x thread (MrcinaGTI)*

is it safe on a stock bottom end...sorry if this is a repost of a question...theres like 15 pages...
thanks.


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

If anyone has there Pro-Import up-pipe off the car could you please post a pick of just the uppipe? I talked to Pat at Pro-import and he wants me to try new hardware







He was suppose to ship the new hardware on the 16th. Still havent recieved it and if that didnt work he was going to send me a different dp without a cat to try. I dont know how many times he wants me to remove this thing. Sooo if you could post a pick of the up-pipe I would really appreciate it. Thanks


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

do you currently run the pi uppipe?
i ran my 3 inch catless exhaust with this kit and would not have it any other way!


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Yes but it causes the dp to rest against the firewall.


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bluebomber* »_Yes but it causes the dp to rest against the firewall.









Have an exhaust shop cut the flange and rotate it to where it does not hit the fire wall. My PI UPIPE sits perfect. Not even close to the firewall. I run 3 inch GHL DP. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## VdubSingh (Sep 1, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
If you end up parting that let me know. I'd be interested in another exhaust manifold.

would like to just sell the complete kit as i have it


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Wish mine fit perfect. Mine so bad that just cutting and rotating the flange wouldnt work. They actually had to make a couple cuts(3 to be exact) and add a wedge piece to bring it closer to the drivers side. Im more curious what Pats going to do to make this right. I took it to a local shop C&C Injection and they charged me $288. And as far as Im concerned Pat at Pro-Imports should pay the bill. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif Ill post a pic in a minute. I give up on that guy

















_Modified by Bluebomber at 8:49 AM 10-26-2007_


_Modified by Bluebomber at 8:53 AM 10-26-2007_


----------



## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_
2 things I would try: N75 J-valve and playing with the wastegate. On my k03 setup the J valve definetly helped a little with boost creep and then adjusting the wastegate seemed to nearly get rid of it. I've yet to run the stock valve on the k04 so I have no idea how that compares though I've read most people like the stock valve better on the k04.
Now I'm talking boost creep under light throttle load. In my experience (ko3) if you tried to hold anything part throttle over 5 psi it will spike up. On the k04 I can effectively hold up to 7 psi part throttle and light loads without it spiking up. Anything over 7 it will spike up to or sometimes past 20 psi.

_Modified by TooLFan46n2 at 6:51 PM 10-25-2007_

Boost Creep was way worse with the J. the J is more aggressive. With this MBC its gone 100% i just know that im running hella rich. If anyone is local with this turbo wanna compare setups let me know. i would love someone to drive my car to compare it to their setup


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i could compare to my 20th fedor


----------



## lax1492 (Jan 19, 2004)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bluebomber* »_Wish mine fit perfect. Mine so bad that just cutting and rotating the flange wouldnt work. They actually had to make a couple cuts(3 to be exact) and add a wedge piece to bring it closer to the drivers side. Im more curious what Pats going to do to make this right. I took it to a local shop C&C Injection and they charged me $288. And as far as Im concerned Pat at Pro-Imports should pay the bill. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif Ill post a pic in a minute. I give up on that guy








_Modified by Bluebomber at 8:53 AM 10-26-2007_

Just playing devils advocate here ......why should pro imports do anything to fix a part that fits in most everyone else’s car? Especially if they (PI) never did the install? One could say if they installed it and it was like that, no doubt they need to fix it..... Not looking to pick a fight, just trying to see it from a different angle. Putting good customer service aside to try and help you I understand. Granted I don’t know the whole story but im sure Pat has tried to do something for you. To try to relate I had this kit when my car was an automatic and well the software was ok but there were some major kinks. Talked to the revo guys and Pat. Bottom line I had to wait cus at the time they were putting out their mark 5 software so I had to wait a few months but in the end it got fixed. So the needs of the many outnumbered the needs of the few. For myself I know I can install most of the items that are in my car but I got a better foot to stand on when pro imports (or another shop) installs it and they have to warranty their work no ifs and or butts. But good luck to you


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (lax1492)*

Yes he offered to make it right but thats about as far as it went. And offering to send me new hardware is an insult if you ask me. Then he wants me to try a catless dp he was going to send if that didnt work. Who knows what would have been next. And no I didnt ask for my money back because he said there definitely welded up right. Anyway its up and running now even though it cost me $288.


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## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*

My PI adapter fit pretty good however my 3" ebay dp sits about 1/4-1/2" from the passanger side firewall/frame on the underside of the car. It would vibrate under load in 1st and and heavy accelleration. I just installed some poly mounts in the dogbone and I THINK this has helped. The car vibrates at low rpm and when releasing the clutch but I don't feel the feedback coming through the shifter anymore


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*

This is how my 3 inch ghl dp with highflow cat fits onto my PI pipe! You really cant see but it fits just perfect by a hair. No touching or rubbing. I could still bend the firewall outward some more.

__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content



















_Modified by 01gtiaww at 7:01 PM 10-26-2007_


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## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

I also have the 3"GHL dp and mine rested so hard on the firewall it was scary to drive. Felt like the car was going to fall apart. Although its hard to tell but in the pic it looks like the two nuts that are close together one being on the turbo and one being on the flange to the dp are in a different location than they are on mine. It looks like the flange that bolts to the turbo or actually the pipe itself wasnt welded in the correct position. Looks like it needed to be turned down a bit more. But what do I know


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

my uppipe worked great, pats a stand up guy, just humor him and let him try a few things, it may work out


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

*Here is a picture of the actual space that is inbetween the firewall and the DP where yours hits.*


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## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Mine works great now. What do you guys think of putting an o2 sensor in the up-pipe for a wideband? Thanks


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*

*Does it have this amount of space inbetween the DP and firwall now? You can use mine as referance since we have 3 inch GHL DPs.*


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## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Yeah that's about what it looks like now although I think mine actually may be a little further to the drivers side. I just put in the vf tranny mount and everything is just about perfect now. All I need to do is cut about an inch off the muffler section or the over axle piece cant remember off hand to get the tip to be even with the bumper. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_i could compare to my 20th fedor

sounds good to me! i thought u sold that thing. Let me know when we can meet up, i have off mondays so maybe we can meet up on a monday night somewhere or something. 
But yea, Pat is a nice guy, he helped me out many times. Wish the shop was closer to me so i can go and bother him about this MAF thing.


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bluebomber* »_Yes but it causes the dp to rest against the firewall.










Bluebomber, you aren't the only one who had fitment issues with the PI Up-Pipe. It took me two weeks and multiple trips to and from my local exhaust shop to get the flange that connects to the up-pipe to the turbo cut off, the pipe shortened, the flange fitted in the right place (test fit multiple times) then finally welded back in place. I only spent $35 to have the work done and in the end, mine fits perfectly now. Oh and I was having trouble with my GHL 2.5" downpipe (it was sitting against the firewall as well, I couldn't imagine how bad it would be with a 3" downpipe...) 

_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
u wont be disapointed with that turbo, trust me









Thanks man, I'm definitely looking forward to see the results of a T3s60 and water meth. I'll be shooting for the 300+ whp and roughly 300 wtq mark http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_
I was also thinking about running a t3s60 kit. but i was wondering if you would have to rig up a new upper IC pipe to fit. or does it sit in a similar location as the ko4-023? and what manifold are you going to use? pagparts? how much is the kit going to run you?

I'm using a Eurojet FMIC so all I have to do is change the silicone coupler that connects the IC piping to the turbo. I'll buy whatever coupler I need based on where the turbo sits and whatever angle or tilt the piping needs to be at. I'm not worried about the IC piping at all, I didn't have trouble with the K04 and I don't expect any with the T3s60.
As for the new turbo kit, I'll be using a complete hardware kit from Pag Parts (Turbo, Manifold, 3" Downpipe, 3" Turbo Inlet, Install Hardware, Etc...) and a 42dd 3" Cat Back Exhaust. I'm looking at roughly $2600 for all the new stuff but I'm selling the K04 kit for $1200 and my full 2.5" GHL turbo back for $650 or so. In the end I'll be looking at somewhere in the $800-$1000 range out of pocket for the upgrade










_Modified by 20vTurboGLI at 1:02 AM 10-27-2007_


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

a few locals with revo bt and t3s60 make 300 wheel to 320 wheel alone on just the turbo, with w/m youll see way more than that, 340 maybe. but i am not a fan of w/m


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

*Anyone in here ever try any modshack upgrades?*
http://www.modshack.info/ttda.htm
http://www.modshack.info/bamm.htm
http://www.modshack.info/bm.htm


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i tried the maf, i didnt notice anything


----------



## adam vr (Sep 16, 2000)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

anyone on here use an EBC with success?


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (adam vr)*

Been away for a while, no internet access... Have a new problem.
After cold starts (and sometimes not so cold starts), the turbo sounds like it's whipping oil off the blades. If I push it then it squeels. No smoke anywhere, just the sound and it's linear in terms of boost making it higher pitched. It's been doing this for a long time now, a month or more.
I've been thinking that it is the seals, perhaps a bunch of oil leaks past while the car is off and then it works it's way out when the car is running. If I've been driving around a bit, it seems to nearly go away, except it randomly comes back (maybe after some sitting at stop lights, not sure exactly).
I bought this turbo 3rd-hand and I have no idea how many miles it has on it. Looks like a lot but that could just be salty roads from the east coast where it used to be. I've been planning on getting a replacement for some time now but I want to be sure that it won't just happen again. Can the coolent lines perhaps not be working correctly, thus the seals got cooked a little? The lines are new, I bought Aeroquip push-on type hoses for both the water feed and the return. I have pro imports banjo fittings.
It seems like this turbo is toast, needs to be rebuilt, but for next time is there anything I can do other than maybe just buy the TT225 factory water and oil lines?


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

boost leak


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Anyone else have a boost leak sound like that? If it is a boost leak then it would seem that a lot of oil is in the pipes for it to be making that oily sound. I'll check but I'm pretty sure it's buttoned up.


----------



## sotiris (Sep 24, 2007)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

perhaps the axis is cold and has back-lash and when it will warm with the dilation the noise stop....
(if I understood the problem with my poor English.....







)


_Modified by sotiris at 4:10 PM 10-28-2007_


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (sotiris)*

It really doesn't sound like a leak at all, it sounds much more like the turbo is having an internal problem. I just don't know what could make a screeching sound but not break the turbo pretty quickly. I mean maybe it's going to break any minute now but it's been a couple of months already. I know it smokes if I leave it idling for a long time, but it takes quite a while (like an hour) and after it is done smoking, it doesn't come back under normal conditions. I don't think it's internal engine damage - the turbo is a lot more suspect IMO than my motor that only has 40k miles - and the sound is directly proportional to boost... 
I have some cash to fix this but I need to be sure it's actually going to fix it. I'll priobably take it to a couple shops and have them give me an opinion cause it's hard to describe the sound here. Best I can do is to say that it starts with a oily fan blade sound (like the compressor wheel is sitting in oil) and turns into an oily screech. I'm thinking maybe the oil return line is backed up but I'm not sure what sounds that normally produces.

















_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 10:01 PM 10-28-2007_


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

it may sound like that but theres really no way your gonna hear oil sling off your blades......unless you got super hearing, can you hear flys fart? hahaha
if your return was cloging up it would def smoke more, if your seals were blwn it would def smoke more, not just after idling for a few min.
if you here screeches, squels, or other high pitched noises you have a boost leak, check all couplers, and clamps, and pressure test, have you done that yet?. to check for boost leaks you go at it a diff way then for checking for vacume leaks fyi, thats the only real acurate way


----------



## Sketchykid (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

I have not been able to find a place that sells this turbo. can anyone hook me with a quick link? thanks


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Sketchykid)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Sketchykid* »_I have not been able to find a place that sells this turbo. can anyone hook me with a quick link? thanks

Your best bet is to check the AUDI tt mk1 classifieds. If you call Pro Imports they can get you a brand new turbo along with everything else you need. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## [email protected] (Jun 28, 2005)

*Re: (Sketchykid)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Sketchykid* »_I have not been able to find a place that sells this turbo. can anyone hook me with a quick link? thanks

If you are looking for a new turbo we have a few in stock. Please PM me for details.
Cheers


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

I hate it when 200320thAE2632 is right. I had a leak, it just wasn't a charge air leak as I was expecting when he suggested it. The turbo had rattled two of the three bolts loose again and it was leaking between the mani and the hotside outlet. I put a lock washer on each of those bolts so maybe they will stay tight now.
Strange thing is that it really sounded like an oily screech, how could that be? Any oil on that side would get cooked or would be splattered on the firewall and etc. My only theory was that the air was slipping through the gasket and making it occelate and make the sound I heard.
Anyhow, now the car is pulling way stronger and running much better. Unfortunately the leak caused the car to run rich and that killed the front O2 sensor, which I had only just replaced a couple of months ago, as well as about 5 sets of spark plugs (all fouled). The plugs were lasting 3-5 days on average until the O2 finally fouled and then the plugs stopped fouling and the car ran a little better (with the ecu using preset table values instead of the bad O2 signal)...


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

You should try some nord-locks if you havent yet. Youll never have a problem with them backing out again http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bluebomber* »_You should try some nord-locks if you havent yet. Youll never have a problem with them backing out again http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

What are these nord-lock deals? I'm putting studs in my turbo and using nuts on the manifold, so I'm expecting some issues. If I can find anyway to keep issues away I'm all about that.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I've had my turbo on for 2+ years and my bolts have never slipt out the manifold or been loose! I use the ones PI sent in there kit. I just put some washers in along with the bolts. Works for me. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 12:27 PM 11-1-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 12:28 PM 11-1-2007_


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## ibi-turbo (Nov 19, 2006)

i own an aqx 18t 156hp ibiza cupra,
can i use the k04-023 oil and wather lines for the k04 turbo?
becouse some say that they had to bend/weld them?
and who has pics of home made k04 downpipes?
grtz


----------



## transient_analysis (Jan 28, 2003)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bluebomber* »_You should try some nord-locks if you havent yet. Youll never have a problem with them backing out again http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
nord-lock FTW.. been saying that for years


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## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

try this

http://www.nord-lock.com/


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (ibi-turbo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ibi-turbo* »_i own an aqx 18t 156hp ibiza cupra,
can i use the k04-023 oil and wather lines for the k04 turbo?
becouse some say that they had to bend/weld them?
and who has pics of home made k04 downpipes?
grtz

Yes you can use the stock oil and water lines from an audi tt 225. I use them without a problem. As for homemade uppipes, never seen someone with one on here. You can modify the OEM audi tt 225 one to work or you can just bye the uppipe that pi sells. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Be prepared to have possible fitment issues with the PI uppipe if you decide to go that route. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


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## ibi-turbo (Nov 19, 2006)

ok thanks for the info!
and what is the pi uppipe?
and how big is the oem tt downpipe?

grtz


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
What are these nord-lock deals? I'm putting studs in my turbo and using nuts on the manifold, so I'm expecting some issues. If I can find anyway to keep issues away I'm all about that.

I think I have some of these washers, I just have to find them...LMK if you want me to look Trevor


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (ibi-turbo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ibi-turbo* »_ok thanks for the info!
and what is the pi uppipe?
and how big is the oem tt downpipe?

grtz

The PI UPIPE is a piece of pipe that attaches to the k04-20 in order to be able to use your stock DOwnpipe or whatever Downpipe you want. I do not know the exact measurements of the OEM tt 225 DOwnpipe. I am sure someone on here knows. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## ibi-turbo (Nov 19, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

do you have a pic of this one installed?
so the pipe turns from the k04 and ends up in the middle like k03 fitment?
grtz


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i used studs and never had a prob, 2306, remove those lock washers, there doing more harm then good. you can use some red locktite if your using bolts if you want but i always prefer studs in every turbo i use or install. i am pretty sure i put red locktite on my studs before i put them in the turbo.
your welcome 2306


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## PhilW (Jan 3, 2006)

Has there been any fitment or alignment issues with the pro-imports part? 
I'm thinking of going GTRS eliminator on k04-023 TT 225 manifold with the PI up-pipe and 3 inlet so theres no fitment issues with the shifter bracket.


_Modified by PhilW at 10:19 AM 11-2-2007_


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (PhilW)*

Does ATP make an eliminator kit for the audi tt 225? Never heard of anyone trying one out. Remember the 225 and regular 1.8ts have differant manifolds so you just can't bolt on the eliminator kits that atp sells for the regular 1.8ts. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:38 AM 11-2-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:42 AM 11-2-2007_


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## PhilW (Jan 3, 2006)

Yes they do.... http://www.atpturbo.com/root/r...5.htm
You'd use a standard 225 manifold, with a k04 eliminator, PI pipe and normal k03 downpipe.


_Modified by PhilW at 1:44 PM 11-2-2007_


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (PhilW)*

Yes I just saw it on there web site , but do you really want to pay almost 2,000 for just the turbo?
http://www.atpturbo.com/Mercha...VVWTK


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:49 AM 11-2-2007_


----------



## PhilW (Jan 3, 2006)

If it works, yeah. I'm a bit unlucky in the fact my engine bay is really small that a normal 28rs on ATP manifold wont fit. Pagparts mani throws the turbo over towards cylinder 1 and 2 which makes the downpipe foul the rear engine mount.
Plus the dollars weak against the british pound at the moment.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (PhilW)*

I don't know about the 2,000 grand for an eliminator turbo. For a few dollars more you can get a complete kit from pag parts. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I mean it would be a nice bolt up upgrade if it was cheaper and did not have any fitment issues. 2000 grand would be more reasonable if it included fueling and SW. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## PhilW (Jan 3, 2006)

Yes but the pag parts kit wont fit my car. So i'm left with a custom downpipe and manifold.


----------



## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_
Anyhow, now the car is pulling way stronger and running much better. Unfortunately the leak caused the car to run rich and that killed the front O2 sensor, which I had only just replaced a couple of months ago, as well as about 5 sets of spark plugs (all fouled). The plugs were lasting 3-5 days on average until the O2 finally fouled and then the plugs stopped fouling and the car ran a little better (with the ecu using preset table values instead of the bad O2 signal)... 









samething happened to me, but while my plugs, 02 sensors failed so did my MAF and now the car runs well.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Well, for all who are interested, I FINALLY, like just today, got those inserts. It ended up being more than expected and the guys took like... 4 more days than promised. But anyhow, anyone who is interested in some, LMK. Um... unfortunately the price also kind of went up. And this is what really makes me mad, so the guy who quoted me in the first place apparently quoted me too little for the quantity I was getting made. So, the price now will be $15/insert and you can buy as many as you'd like or as few as you'd like. If you're looking to buy them in larger quantities I'll work out a better deal for you. But for now, that's what it'll need to be so that I can ship them to you and pay for the machining. Additionally, I ended up finding out from the same guy that told me I was misquoted in the first place, that the cost for 3 of these to be machined would be $50/insert instead of the original $30. Because frankly, when they told me the number I had to buy to get them cheaper I thought about getting 3 made, but really I can get them for $15/insert with the current quantity. Anyhow, end of rant/post, but $15/insert with no real limit. LMK if anyone is interested or I may be selling them to a "business."


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Ill pick up a set just in case http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
IM sent


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

if you have room for a tt manifold and 225 atp eliminator then youll have room for a pag parts kit.


----------



## VdubSingh (Sep 1, 2007)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

anyone selling their PI charge pipe and up pipe?


----------



## CesarinGTI (Mar 27, 2007)

*Re: (VdubSingh)*









Check this sweet engine!!!!!


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (CesarinGTI)*

I hate ABD! http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (CesarinGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CesarinGTI* »_








Check this sweet engine!!!!!









I wish mine was that clean. I really think it looks pretty good. 
Also, I'd like to mention that when I put my ABD intake manifold on I had gains.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Also, I'd like to mention that when I put my ABD intake manifold on I had gains. 

actual proof or butt dyno?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
actual proof or butt dyno?

Actual proof. My butt dyno said nothing, actually. But I ran my friend before and after (silver SRT4) and the only change was the ABD.


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Dunno if most people call that actuall proof. People will say "Dyno?"


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (bmxp)*

Ok, so if this is the official K04-02x thread, howcome page one does'nt have a list of part numbers. I've been pulling my hair out trying to find a place that lists the part numbers for the inverse torx or whatever those are that the three bolts are on the turbo, holding it to the mani.
Can't put studs there folks, the nuts will not clear the runners on the mani - I'm not sure how some people claimed they did it because I don't think it's possible without some extremely tall washers or spacers.
Anyhow, I need the torx/whatever bolts, they worked well before but eventually the threads got a little chewed up. Anyone know the p/n?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

Just get them from Pro Imports. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_Just get them from Pro Imports. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


Yeah, for like $8/bolt.
ECS sells them @ 4.57/bolt. However, they rape you on shipping. Just look for any OEM parts provider and they should have them.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_Dunno if most people call that actuall proof. People will say "Dyno?"









He had his chance on Saturday


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

like i said before i ran studs, and so does every car the left PI's shop.
world impex sells those blolts online but i do not recomend them over studs


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

I'm running studs from the turbo to manifold as well. The studs and nuts were included in the install hardware kit I purchased from PI


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

How are you guys running studs? I put studs in my turbo and whenever I went to put the nuts on the studs they hit the exhaust manifold and allowed 0 room for a socket. Pics please. I'd 100% like to use studs, but currently it seems infeasible.


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

You have to use smaller nuts, not the standard 17mm nuts that thread onto the exhaust studs. I'm using three copper colored 16mm lock nuts on the studs coming out of the turbo. I did this so I wouldn't have to worry about stripping the inserts. I ran into the same problem you're having with the nuts being too large to fit a socket wrench on until I tried the smaller nuts PI supplied in their install hardware kit. I would talk to them about getting a few of those nuts if I were you http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_You have to use smaller nuts, not the standard 17mm nuts that thread onto the exhaust studs. I'm using three copper colored 16mm lock nuts on the studs coming out of the turbo. I did this so I wouldn't have to worry about stripping the inserts. I ran into the same problem you're having with the nuts being too large to fit a socket wrench on until I tried the smaller nuts PI supplied in their install hardware kit. I would talk to them about getting a few of those nuts if I were you http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

Wow.. I can't believe I didn't think of that. They should be the same copper nuts that are on the exhaust manifold. Gah... I'm so stupid.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Oh yeah, so I did find out that they're the exhaust manifold copper nuts. They're the 10x1.5mm vs. the 8x1.25mm. For those of whom run them, are you running the flanged or un flanged copper nut? Those are the only two options, and I don't want to have to wait to get the others... so I need to get it right the first time. Please LMK ASAP.


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Is anyone running a Southbend clutch and what do you think about it? Thanks


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

^ save some money get a vr set up.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_You have to use smaller nuts, not the standard 17mm nuts that thread onto the exhaust studs. I'm using three copper colored 16mm

and bingo was his name-o


----------



## sotiris (Sep 24, 2007)

have any one do the "diode" trick with k04-23 giac
and what is the corent order to do this....
1. fit diode
2. cranck wg
3. ??
have anyone see deferent with this?
know anyone other trick like this.??
i will put i.e. rods soon and i want to puss it.....


















_Modified by sotiris at 4:50 AM 11-6-2007_


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (sotiris)*

Diode did nothing for me. It worked great on my k03sport, but on this it does nothing. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## lax1492 (Jan 19, 2004)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bluebomber* »_Is anyone running a Southbend clutch and what do you think about it? Thanks

im running a stage 2, clutch is fine


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (lax1492)*

Here is a sweet deal for a k04-20 kit for $750.00 if anyone is interested. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3526738


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Ok, does anyone else want any inserts? I'm going to be shipping out a few tomorrow... so if you want them sent out tomorrow, LMK now.


----------



## stevec1.8t (Jun 27, 2007)

*Re: (WinnersCIRCLE)*

IM having a hard itme deciding on which BT to go.. My goal is to run a high 12 second car.. EVENTUally.. a LOW 13 would be nice.. i have so far.. GIACX 93 oct softwear..Neuspeed Pflow intake..3 inch downpipe and JUST ordered a GHL 3inch catback exhaust..and i have Forge TIP..now
I wanna go BT but im in college so $ is tight..and i wana know is the K04 WORTHHHH spending $ for? whats the next step up the GT28RS?
Id like to buy the best bigger turbo for NOT TO MUCH $..like i dont wana spend 2GRAND!
Most important..whcih BT can i still use my GIACX softwear with???


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

this isnt the turbo for you then. this isnt a balls to the wall kit. if you want a nice power house but calm for a daily, then get a t3s60 kit from pagparts.
really you can get into the low 13's with the 5speed with good driving, LSD and drag radials. add a k04001 to that and you may hit 12s
vdubndizzy hit a 13.2 with a k03 still, i bet with an k04001 he woulda saw 12s and cost a hell of alot less than a k0420 kit
if your set on this kit ill sell you mine for 1500, eveything you need to install it, ready to be installed, gaskets and all


----------



## jettasmooth (Aug 7, 2002)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

I just picked up a complete K04-022 TT upgrade for my AWP 1.8T. 
Can someone help me out with companies that are carrying the up-pipe to adapt to the stock MK4 downpipe so that I don't have to fish through the past 75 pages of crap?......thanks


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (jettasmooth)*

Pro-Imports sells them BUT be prepared for possible fitment issues http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## jettasmooth (Aug 7, 2002)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*

doh.....maybe I should just have someone make me one....?


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (jettasmooth)*

I was told you need special tooling because of the aggressive bend.
If this is going on an MKIII Im not sure how much room you have, maybe some of the gurus can chime in on that http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by Bluebomber at 9:04 AM 11-9-2007_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*

IIRC the same bend is found on stock TT downpipes, which are infact 3", again IIRC. So, basically, you could buy a stock TT DP and then hack it off and put a regular flange on it to match your DP. But, that is just from what I'm recalling. No promises. 
Also, for those of whom purchased inserts, they're in the mail and should be there within about mailing days. Thanks again. For anyone else, LMK ASAP if you'd like to purchase inserts.


----------



## jettasmooth (Aug 7, 2002)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

So far, I have found that the stock 1.8T Mk4 downpipe works perfectly with my K03s fitment in my MK3, so im hoping I can fit it just the same with the U-Pipe and the TT K04.....any suggestions are appreciated


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

True http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_IIRC the same bend is found on stock TT downpipes, which are infact 3", again IIRC. So, basically, you could buy a stock TT DP and then hack it off and put a regular flange on it to match your DP. But, that is just from what I'm recalling. No promises.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_IIRC the same bend is found on stock TT downpipes, which are infact 3", again IIRC. So, basically, you could buy a stock TT DP and then hack it off and put a regular flange on it to match your DP. But, that is just from what I'm recalling. No promises. 
Also, for those of whom purchased inserts, they're in the mail and should be there within about mailing days. Thanks again. For anyone else, LMK ASAP if you'd like to purchase inserts. 

nope wont work, they dont sweep away from the firewall like the pi upipe


----------



## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Just Dynod my car this morning...








Mods:
PI Ko4-20 kit
White top injectors
Revo software
BFSM! Intercooler w/ water mister
3" catless DP
2.5" Side exit exhaust
Unplugged MAF
Intake
Forge 007 DV
MBC set at ~21, 22
Power Gasket
Bypassed n279
Vr6 clutch
g60 lightweight fly wheel
Dogbone Bushing
catch can with breather
ground wires

VIDEOS OF ME BLOWING COMING SOON!








PS...Check out that torque!!?!?!!


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (Fuze911)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Fuze911* »_Just Dynod my car this morning...








Mods:
PI Ko4-20 kit
White top injectors
Revo software
BFSM! Intercooler w/ water mister
3" catless DP
2.5" Side exit exhaust
Unplugged MAF
Intake
Forge 007 DV
MBC set at ~21, 22
Power Gasket
Bypassed n279
Vr6 clutch
g60 lightweight fly wheel
Dogbone Bushing
catch can with breather
ground wires

VIDEOS OF ME BLOWING COMING SOON!








PS...Check out that torque!!?!?!!

Honestly, my guess is you had a bad RPM signal and the tq is skewed. 260wtq is what you really made. On dynos they only read horsepower and approx tq as a function of RPMs and HP, IIRC. Either way, the 300s were incorrect. With as early as they showed and as high as they showed, if you made that, you wouldn't have a running car. Also, it looks like the signal drops off completely on the two crazy torque readings. Not to be a downer, but 232/260 are your numbers. Seems to be about typical for the Revo k04-02x SW anyhow.


----------



## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Very true!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LGchZLEqzwA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_t8RYzGWac8


_Modified by Fuze911 at 12:35 AM 11-11-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i beg to differ, i make all my dyno passes at extreme, they have all the right pick ups for the 1.8t, i did some 300+ tq pulls with the mbc, i believe it


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (Fuze911)*

I'm really getting to the end of my patience with trying to get long-term perfect running and performance. The different MAF's probably piss me off the most. I hate that the Revo software was built as it is. Each MAF has it's plusses and minuses.
Stock MAF: The car runs perfect but it's sooo slow.
TT225 MAF: The car runs terrible, bad pt, etc. - but boosts well and drives really fast.
2.0/VR6 MAF: I just wasted another $70 on one and the car runs terrible, it boost cycles, it spikes on launches but most of the time can't boost at all after (often can't get past 3-5PSI even with a MBC) and no matter what, it's slow as hell.
The 2.0/VR6 MAF is by far the worst, yet it is what PI and Revo say I'm supposed to be using. I hate how much money I've dumped into trying to fix it, and the only reason I haven't switched to GIAC is that I can't sell my Revo so I essentially have to write over it, which is the same as tossing $800 into the garbage, except that not even a bum can have it later.
http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_I'm really getting to the end of my patience with trying to get long-term perfect running and performance. The different MAF's probably piss me off the most. I hate that the Revo software was built as it is. Each MAF has it's plusses and minuses.
Stock MAF: The car runs perfect but it's sooo slow.
TT225 MAF: The car runs terrible, bad pt, etc. - but boosts well and drives really fast.
2.0/VR6 MAF: I just wasted another $70 on one and the car runs terrible, it boost cycles, it spikes on launches but most of the time can't boost at all after (often can't get past 3-5PSI even with a MBC) and no matter what, it's slow as hell.
The 2.0/VR6 MAF is by far the worst, yet it is what PI and Revo say I'm supposed to be using. I hate how much money I've dumped into trying to fix it, and the only reason I haven't switched to GIAC is that I can't sell my Revo so I essentially have to write over it, which is the same as tossing $800 into the garbage, except that not even a bum can have it later.
http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 


Well, here's what I do know in regards to the mentioned. Your best bet is to call PI and tell Pat that your car runs like poop. Everytime I talk to him he tells me I'm just about the only one who ever complains.
Also, what most people aren't really understanding is that the k04-020 sw is setup as BIG TURBO software. I hate this aspect of it, as it's NOT a big turbo and shouldn't be treated as one. The SW is written so that boost arrives slow and linearly. It's written so that your peak hp will be as far to the right as possible and that you can run race gas w/o tossing rods. Full boost should not be reached until 4000rpms - just like if you had a gt2871r or something larger. The most power isn't until around 4000rpms. This SW is written much the same. From 3000rpms til 4000rpms you should build from 10psi to 20psi. It should not be a jump. I had a very in depth conversation regarding this with Pat. He explained that his file is written to have top end and avoid heat soaking the small turbo.
In regards to the MAF sensors, Pat said that the ORIGINAL file was written for a 1.8t sensor and that latter files have been written for an interchangable 1.8t/VR6 sensor. So, basically... 1.8t should always work and for some the VR will. For me, the VR makes my car run horrible in everyway possible. At every RPM it's slower and response is crap. With the 1.8t it is driveable, but the boost is just as mentioned. 10psi @ 3000rpms then slowly building up. However, Pat confirmed that the SW is functioning 100% properly with it doing that and the reason for that is to keep the heat down and to move the power as much to the right as possible. 
This, to me, is not where I want my car. If I wanted to wait til 4000rpms for full boost I'd drive something that gave me the potential for 350whp+. 
Also, I've driven a few TT225s w/Revo, APR, and GIAC and none of them act in this manner and all of them are pretty fun to drive. Though, they aren't making as much power as I am with this setup either. I haven't shared my numbers until now, but I made 239/279 (sheet states 93.39*, 28.94 in-Hg, 26% Humidity, and yes it is SAE corrected). Now, for whomever wants to say that it was a happy dyno blah blah blah (reason why I didn't share my #s), with my k03s, APR 93oct, 2.5" TBE, APR FMIC, Samco TIP, CAI, and pretty much everything I have now, I made 199/232. So, this dyno is anything but "happy." Anyhow, getting back to what I was saying, the power from this turbo isn't too bad on the software, but it just doesn't suit anyone who is looking for a k03s + extra power. The software is written to make numbers from the setup. It's not written to make tq low and early and make it perform like a k03s. That is where I think GIAC is much different. I believe their SW puts it to perform much like a k03s but with +30-40whp. I cannot of course confirm this, for I, much like 2306, DO NOT want to waste the $720 +++++ that I've spent trying to get this software where I want it - even though now I know that it'll really never be "ideal" for me. 
Now, for those who are looking at peak numbers, I think Revo may produce them w/o some added cooling. For those looking at k03s ++ I think GIAC may be the best solution. Personally, I've had my friend talk to Unitronics a bit for me (he is a dealer) and it SEEMS like they may have the best solution for this setup. But, I cannot offer any input as such. If anyone has an RN/6spd ECU they'd like to donate to me, I'll happily test Unitronics and maybe even another Revo file (I believe the one Jeremy's claims come from - at least according to Pat). But, I don't have another ECU to get flashed and don't want to spend another $150-200++ for an ECU. 
For anyone who wants to talk software, log your file and you'll know how it's performing. Period. Revo k04-02x software, under perfect conditions, will react as I just explained. That is with N75 controlled boost and NO MBC. My car is setup w/my vac 100% stock and runs 100% according to Pat. /end


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

uhhhhh everything you just said about the revo k04 sw being like revo bt sw is really in acurate. they started from scratch writing this but actually seems they just modified a k03s sw to accept the tt injectors and maf, i wont get into this but 2306, every car i know of locally with the kit runs the stock tt maf, and if they have issues PI has them use the stock element in the tt housing.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_uhhhhh everything you just said about the revo k04 sw being like revo bt sw is really in acurate. they started from scratch writing this but actually seems they just modified a k03s sw to accept the tt injectors and maf, i wont get into this...

I think he doesn't care whether it was in fact based on a big turbo file, he meant that it behaves like one.

_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_...but 2306, every car i know of locally with the kit runs the stock tt maf, and if they have issues PI has them use the stock element in the tt housing.

That's my point, PI told everyone else to use VR6 MAF's with VR6/2.0 sensors. They said specifically not to use the TT225 and stock 1.8T ones. See posts a few pages back where we talked about this. Revo said the same thing. But for me and several others, the VR6/2.0 MAF is by far the worst running. With a TT225 MAF, the top-end performance is great, but other factors such as cold starts, gas milage and idle quality are bad or unacceptible.


_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 4:11 AM 11-11-2007_


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_

Well, here's what I do know in regards to the mentioned. Your best bet is to call PI and tell Pat that your car runs like poop. Everytime I talk to him he tells me I'm just about the only one who ever complains.
Also, what most people aren't really understanding is that the k04-020 sw is setup as BIG TURBO software. I hate this aspect of it, as it's NOT a big turbo and shouldn't be treated as one. The SW is written so that boost arrives slow and linearly. It's written so that your peak hp will be as far to the right as possible and that you can run race gas w/o tossing rods. Full boost should not be reached until 4000rpms - just like if you had a gt2871r or something larger. 

sounds to me like he was saying that


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
sounds to me like he was saying that

I didn't say it was derived from big turbo software. I said it was written as big turbo software. That's how a big turbo file responds. It builds boost in a very linear fashion and doesn't reach peak power until later in the RPM range. If you want to negotiate it and say 4000 rpms isn't that late or whatever the hell you want to barter about that's fine. But look at my boost logs and look at GT28RS, GT2871R, or even GT3071R logs and you'll see they're not all that different. I guess if you don't consider those BIG turbos (because outside of the VW world those aren't really "big" turbos) then I guess you'll start comparing it to 3076s+ and in that case you're right. It's nothing like them because they don't make boost in the same general range as a k04 w/Revo k04-02x SW.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_If anyone has an RN/6spd ECU they'd like to donate to me, I'll happily test Unitronics and maybe even another Revo file (I believe the one Jeremy's claims come from - at least according to Pat). But, I don't have another ECU to get flashed and don't want to spend another $150-200++ for an ECU. 
d 

As long as it has immo defeat, you can run any ecu AWW/AWP/HS/RN/LP/PL/DL etc not the AWD one though...


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
As long as it has immo defeat, you can run any ecu AWW/AWP/HS/RN/LP/PL/DL etc not the AWD one though...

I like my cruise control.


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
That is where I think GIAC is much different. I believe their SW puts it to perform much like a k03s but with +30-40whp. I cannot of course confirm this, for I, much like 2306, DO NOT want to waste the $720 +++++ that I've spent trying to get this software where I want it - even though now I know that it'll really never be "ideal" for me. 


No my GIAC behaves just like the REVO, boost onset originally was linear building from 10 psi @3k to 20 psi @3900 RPM. I definelty noticed an increase in lag from the k03s. A few weeks ago I cranked my wastegate down even more. I wanted to run through a few tanks of gas to allow adaptation before I reported back. The car is more fun to drive now, It spikes roughly 23 psi @3400 RPM and holds 18-19 psi (maybe 20 in 5th & 6th) and tapers to 16 psi at redline. 
04DubGLI are you going to post up your sheet? I'd really like to see it. Couple weeks we have a dyno day coming up. I'd like to also do a 100 octane file run but I worry about the rods, I have no idea what that program is capable of, I'd assume its relatively safe if GIAC offers it to consumers.


----------



## SloJTI (Oct 29, 2005)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_ I'd like to also do a 100 octane file run but I worry about the rods, I have no idea what that program is capable of, I'd assume its relatively safe if GIAC offers it to consumers.

I ran the 100oct file several times without hurting the motor. This includes several passes at the track http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (SloJTI)*

Ive also run a full tank off 100oct with no issues. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

A quick reminder of what the Revo file wants for boost...







<br/>By <a target="_new" href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/trevor04vdubgli">trevor04vdubgli</a> at 2007-07-16
And my onset of boost was basically MBC. Just as a point of reference. Now it's not like that at all. Follows the requested.


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
Now it's not like that at all. Follows the requested.

WHY?
I'm using REVO K04-02x Software with a VR6 MAF housing and sensor and my car feels significantly slower (less powerful) if I let the N75 control boost as opposed to my MBC... With the N75 valve my boost curve follows the requested (doesn't peak until ~4000 RPMs), the car feels laggy and slow and I get crazy boost oscillation problems... Now with my dual stage MBC controlling boost the car will hit peak boost at 3200-3400 RPMs, it pulls much harder and holds boost a lot better to redline http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
I just don't see why you would want to let the N75 control boost and peak so late...
Oh and just to add, I don't have partial throttle problems hardly at all anymore. The only time I really notice it is when the car is in high boost and I'm going up a hill. I never have trouble in low boost


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_
WHY?
I'm using REVO K04-02x Software with a VR6 MAF housing and sensor and my car feels significantly slower (less powerful) if I let the N75 control boost as opposed to my MBC... With the N75 valve my boost curve follows the requested (doesn't peak until ~4000 RPMs), the car feels laggy and slow and I get crazy boost oscillation problems... Now with my dual stage MBC controlling boost the car will hit peak boost at 3200-3400 RPMs, it pulls much harder and holds boost a lot better to redline http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
I just don't see why you would want to let the N75 control boost and peak so late...
Oh and just to add, I don't have partial throttle problems hardly at all anymore. The only time I really notice it is when the car is in high boost and I'm going up a hill. I never have trouble in low boost










For me, the why is simple. I don't really like my car correcting my fueling as much as it has to in order to run early boost. Now, I know how VWs are over engineered to the max, but really, I don't want to rely on all the systems to have to add that much extra fuel. I also cannot tweak the car myself to make maximum horsepower with the fueling suffering such a discrepancy through the middle of the RPM range. It's really a matter of the software. Most everyone on this thread runs band aids. I refuse to. I have tried a MBC in several different orientations and frankly the car is more fun to drive, but the power is about the same, if not less, to be honest b/c I can add so much timing when the trims are in agreement and there is generally much less heat) and the fact still remains that the car's tuning doesn't match what it's doing until 4000+ rpms. I'll continue to complain about how this software is written and maybe eventually something will change, but unless I learn how to rewrite how it performs from 3000-4000 rpms, I'm running it how it's designed to run. Then everything will be balanced (realistically, the SW is written very well, it's just a matter of what *I* want out of the driving experience - which doesn't happen to be such a late boost curve) and the car will perform well and probably make some pretty decent numbers in the mean time. Heck, I'd estimate that I'm closer to 250whp currently - based on my initial dyno and how it runs now w/my new intake manifold and how I am expecting the new wastegate actuator to have aided. 
That reminds me, I'm going to plug for Forge here... I really think that there may be some gains for all w/their wastegate actuator. Now, I haven't dynoed my car again yet, but I'll report numbers when I do - bare in mind it will also be the intake manifold as well for all of the nay sayers for those. But, here's one very important thing that many people in the VW world seem to overlook, a wastegate actuator should have a minimum of 1/2 the spring rate of the boost pressure you're intending to run. The stock spring rate on the WGA is 5-7psi. So 10-15psi maximum on that spring. Of course the N75 makes more possible, but there still may be issues with that spring holding up to higher boost levels. With my Forge I'll be running a 9-15psi spring and of course using my N75. It should have the same partial throttle, but I'm expecting overall better boost response and control and maybe even better holding. I'll have logs and more info later. However, conceptually, I believe it'll be a worthwhile mod.


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

Hmmm... well I don't have any fuel correcting issues with my boost the way it is. In fact my fuel trims look amazing and my a/f curve follws the requested almost exactly








I guess each car reacts differently, especially since I know from experience my car hates using the N75. Oh well, my kit is coming off the car in less than a month anyway...


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_Hmmm... well I don't have any fuel correcting issues with my boost the way it is. In fact my fuel trims look amazing and my a/f curve follws the requested almost exactly








I guess each car reacts differently, especially since I know from experience my car hates using the N75. Oh well, my kit is coming off the car in less than a month anyway...

My AFR looked fine w/a MBC in place, but that only shows part of the info. But you have to log the correction. Not the AFR. IIRC AFR = block 32. Correction = block 31 IIRC. That's the great thing about VWs is that they're widebands from the factory so they'll correct it themselves. However, it doesn't mean that your car is "happy."


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
My AFR looked fine w/a MBC in place, but that only shows part of the info. But you have to log the correction. Not the AFR. IIRC AFR = block 32. Correction = block 31 IIRC. That's the great thing about VWs is that they're widebands from the factory so they'll correct it themselves. However, it doesn't mean that your car is "happy." 

Trust me, the car is plenty "happy"








And you mixed those two up... Block 31 is your a/f ratio and Block 32 is your Fuel Trim (Correction)
I've logged both of those several times, and in Block 31 my actual a/f ratio follows the requested almost exactly. In Block 32 my fuel trims never go above or below +/- 2.0 and +/- 1.0 (ideally the closer to 0 they are the better, but +/- 10 and +/- 1.0 is considered acceptable). With my current setup, the first number is a typically a little over 2 and the second number is always less than 1.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: 04VDub's Inserts!*

Yo. Just wanted to say in case anyone is wondering, 04VDubGLI's threaded inserts came out really great. I bought a set to fix the threads on my K04 and they arrived in a couple of days and they look like they are going to work out great, will hopefully install this weekend. If you have bad inserts, replace them with these before you get a bolt stuck in your turbo like I did, cause then you won't be able to use inserts at all (one of my inserts got all eaten up in the turbo and had to be replaced with a timesert coil because I couldn't find any stock inserts at the time)...

In the third pic, you can see the taps required for the inside and outside diameter of the inserts. If you have trouble getting your inserts in then you should clean up the threads in the turbo, or have a machine shop do it for you, otherwise you will end up with the same problem with the new inserts. He knows the right size tap to order and a good place to buy them online...
Highly recommended for spares if you are planning to keep this setup for a while, and especially if you bought your turbo used and the inserts were already a bit chewed up....










_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 5:20 AM 11-14-2007_


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (SloJTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SloJTI* »_
I ran the 100oct file several times without hurting the motor. This includes several passes at the track http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

still lurk huh, me to. back on topic, i have ran 110 at 23+ psi (my car didnt know how to control its self so well at times) no issue. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif that was on revo timing of 9







i was fairly certain it was gonna blow but it didnt. i actually had chills as i hooked up the sps thinking WTF am i doing


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW
Who knows enough to know whether this would work or not? And if there'd be gains?


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

just install studs and you do not need those inserts


----------



## stevec1.8t (Jun 27, 2007)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

any one wana tell me why id want to buy a K04 setup..OVER a GT28RS? why and or why not?..i see a lot of people making 300+lbs of torque..but small HP? even with softwear? i mean after my 3 othr boltones i should be making 225 HP at the wheel..and close to 270ish torque?? this on mans dyno only shows 230 hp..and tq in the 300s?..it doesnt seem much better is it worth it?


----------



## stevec1.8t (Jun 27, 2007)

anything?


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (stevec1.8t)*

It doesn't make much more peak hp, but it makes more power overall. Your stock turbo has a large spike that is probably something like 150% of the average hp. The K04-02x turbos are also a lot more robust than the K03/K04-001's and they are less susceptible to environmental factors (at least that's what I found, my K03 only felt powerful on cold days).
Another advantage over other bigger turbos is that you can buy almost all the parts at the dealer, and the dealer may be more familiar with them - if you have other problems with your car, they may be less inclined to believe the turbo was the cause (you can't count on this, I am just speaking from personal experience).
This kit is not worth buying new. You should source the most expensive parts from a TT225, hopefully with not too many miles. It should be possible to buy all the parts for $600-$900, possibly even including the software - if you already have a flashed/chipped ECU, upgrading it to the K04-02x file may be only $50-200. You may even be able to do the install yourself, many of us did and it was our first time doing it.
Try to avoid Revo software if you have a choice. Some people got the Revo/PI file working well, but a few of us continue to be frustrated (making the kit look even less desirable). GIAC users seem to be much happier.










_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 5:07 AM 11-15-2007_


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (stevec1.8t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stevec1.8t* »_ i mean after my 3 othr boltones i should be making 225 HP at the wheel..and close to 270ish torque?? 

I highly doubt that you are at 225 whp and 270wtq. with 3 bolt- ons and a stock turbo. You'll be lucky if you are even at 200whp with the mods on your list.







In order to get those #'s on a k03sport, you'll need 100octane, MBC set on high boost, diode, Water/meth, cranked wastegate, upgraded intercooler. Even with all that you will be pushing the turbo to its limit and would probably blow it in no time using it like this as a daily. If you do this for 1-3 dyno runs then its ok.

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:21 AM 11-15-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:35 AM 11-15-2007_


----------



## lax1492 (Jan 19, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_
I highly doubt that you are at 225 whp and 270wtq. with 3 bolt- ons and a stock turbo. 
_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:21 AM 11-15-2007_

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:35 AM 11-15-2007_

i think closer to 185whp, a stock gti (ko3s)is what 150whp(maybe im pushing it with a higher powertrain loss) But with a chip, intake and a dp one wont be more then 185...with that logic 150whp to 230 whp is an 80 whp jump from 3 bolt ones.
edit here is a link :
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2698530 
and with those mods its anywhere from 185-200 whp




_Modified by lax1492 at 8:47 AM 11-15-2007_


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Ok, well I finally got parts to hopefully start getting my car entirely fixed up. I bought some 2.25" T-bolts. Which happens to be the perfect size for the turbo outlet from what I understand.


_Modified by Boostin20v at 8:42 AM 11-16-2007_


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## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Got the inserts. Thanks for the favor


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## stevec1.8t (Jun 27, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

excuse me let me be a BIT more specific..Intake...GiacX relfash..Tyrol sport SMIC(just got)..3 inch downpipe to a GHL exhaust (jus got)..Forge DV..and Forge TIP..and beforethe Exhaust and Intercooler..ECS Timing belt replacement with Pully KIT..(brand NEW)..i had 197WHP on a MUSTANG DYNO..which if yu know anythign about mustang DYNOS they dyno lower on Front wheel drive cars..and ill uplode the sheet shortly for you.. i dont want to be a Di*K but please dont doubt me and check it out before "Highly doubting" the ammount of power i am curently making..check out a friends thread ..http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3531857 .. ALSO BIG_TOM made 225WHP and 276 Torque on his K03s..with ONE mod different from mine.. a Unitronic flash compared to my GIACX..so now tha we have the SAME exact mods its SAFE to say i probly have the SAME power Give or take a few







..also SAVwKO made 258WHP n 322WTQ..ON THE KO3S...http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2901711


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## stevec1.8t (Jun 27, 2007)

*Re: (lax1492)*

AND BY THE WAY the first dyno on that thread with MY similar mods ..are 263HP? lol


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## lax1492 (Jan 19, 2004)

*Re: (stevec1.8t)*

ill meet you half way and agree to disagree ... i guess if your making so much power then there must not be a need for this turbo . Reason I posted that link was to give you an idea of ...same mods but different horsepower. I know plenty about dynos and I know about dyno sheets that were touched by shops like"EIP" that had magical numbers. Bottom line this is a ko4 thread so lets all get back on topic


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Who is going to be the first to try Uni for this setup? Or who is donating me a 6spd ECU so I can try Uni? I want to see what they can do for this setup. I'm thinking 260whp if they do what I was told they would.


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (stevec1.8t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stevec1.8t* »_AND BY THE WAY the first dyno on that thread with MY similar mods ..are 263HP? lol

It clearly says right at the begining of that dyno that it was on 100octane. Savvco made his numbers on 100 octane, diode, cranked wastegate, high boost, and whatever else he did to make those numbers. He says it himself that he only did it to get high dyno numbers and that is it. So yeah is it possible for a ko3sport to make high numbers? Yes! Is it reliable? NO! Will your turbo blow up if you drive it like that as a daily? YES! The differance between a k03sport and a k04-20 is that a k04-20 makes that power on 93 octane and 18 lbs of boost with no other tinkering needed. If you can make that power on a k03sport imagine the power a k04-20 can make on water/meth, 100 octane, cranked wastegate, and whatever else. The reason no one on here has done it is cause they don't want to blow a hole in their block. If someone had upgraded rods then you can see what a k04-20 can really do. It's all very logical. The k04-20 is much more efficient and bigger than a k03 sport and k04-001 therefore it has to make more power than those smaller turbos. DON't you think??? ANyway, lets get this back on topic here.

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 7:55 AM 11-17-2007_


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 10:42 AM 11-17-2007_


----------



## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

oooooo!


----------



## sotiris (Sep 24, 2007)

*Re: (Fuze911)*

any body with maf from s4 with k04?
with what Injector size, in hopes to not have to do too much tweaking and also to keep the software close to what setup it was intend for
maybe the 380cc with 5 bar fuel press











_Modified by sotiris at 1:22 PM 11/18/2007_


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

380cc at 4 bar is a tad to much fuel for this turbo so at 5 bar is just nuts.
s4 maf is to large also, nothing above a stock 2.75 inlet is needed.


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

For anyone who is interested, I THINK (don't quite know yet though) that Lowe's sells the proper parts you could use for putting studs into your k04-020s. I'll hopefully confirm within the next few days. Also, it should be known that these turbo bolts are extremely hard. I have to drill mine out do to the most ridiculous of circumstances and it's taking forever and eating bits right and left.


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

pi sells them also, you can call them and theyll give you the size and lowes should have them. i love the fastener isle at my local lowes, its so fun to go browsing so in the future if you need anything you can just grab it ya know!


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Are we totally sure that the turbo bolts have to be special/hard? I've been running some allen stretch bolts for a while now, maybe 6 months, and they show no signs of fatigue. I was also able to cut through the K03 hex bolts using my dremel, it wasn't very difficult (I used about one dremel pad per bolt). The inverse torx bolts that are suggested do seem to be stronger but I'm not so sure that it is necessary. I was able to cut through the inverse torx bolts with slightly more effort than the K03 bolts.
That said, what's the difference between the OEM bolts that seem almost like iron colored vs the silvery ones you get from home depot or autozone? Would those hold up as well as my OEM stretch bolts have?










_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 4:07 AM 11-19-2007_


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (sotiris)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sotiris* »_any body with maf from s4 with k04?
with what Injector size, in hopes to not have to do too much tweaking and also to keep the software close to what setup it was intend for
maybe the 380cc with 5 bar fuel press








_Modified by sotiris at 1:22 PM 11/18/2007_


WHat are you trying to accomplish? Did you get those upgraded rods installed yet?


----------



## sotiris (Sep 24, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

not yet the other month maybe.....i have buy the rods but i wait








i will push the k04-023...
i wil fit the 20v int cam with the tubular 34mm manifold and the larger tb... and i will 
crack forge (blue ring) wg until i hit 1.5 bar to 7000~ 
without over boost
and same water/meth with race giac file (not buy wet)
only to cold weather








i buy a couple of k04





















who knows







maybe will i need them......lolol


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (sotiris)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sotiris* »_not yet the other month maybe.....i have buy the rods but i wait








i will push the k04-023...
i wil fit the 20v int cam with the tubular 34mm manifold and the larger tb... and i will 
crack forge (blue ring) wg until i hit 1.5 bar to 7000~ 
without over boost
and same water/meth with race giac file (not buy wet)
only to cold weather








i buy a couple of k04





















who knows







maybe will i need them......lolol


Well I can't wit till you post your dyno sheets so everyone see what a k04-20 is really capable of with upgraded rods, water, meth, race fuel, etc etc... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Depending on your results is weather i'll buy my upgraded rods. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

stretch blts are far better than any grade 8 bolt from lowes or home depot, however, there only good for a one time use really, once you tourque them they stretch and thats it, you cant reuse them, after that if you remove them you should replace them. thats why vw recomends it when the turbo falls loose from the manifold.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_stretch blts are far better than any grade 8 bolt from lowes or home depot, however, there only good for a one time use really, once you tourque them they stretch and thats it, you cant reuse them, after that if you remove them you should replace them. thats why vw recomends it when the turbo falls loose from the manifold.


uhm, I've reused my motor mount bolt (all of them a few times) and a lot of other stretch bolts (of course not the head bolts) and not 1 failure with much more boost and HP than any k04 will produce http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

The part number for the inverse torx turbo bolts is "06a 145 540 K". I went to a dealer I hadn't been to and they had a set (turned out that it wasn't in their inventory but when they took my sample bolt and insert back to their store room, they found a box of three sitting there). There was a slight difference between these and the ones I had originally - these ones don't have a lock washer built-in.


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_

uhm, I've reused my motor mount bolt (all of them a few times) and a lot of other stretch bolts (of course not the head bolts) and not 1 failure with much more boost and HP than any k04 will produce http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

i never said theyll def fail, i just said you shouldnt re-use stretch bolts. i personally never reuse them because i have had the k03 back off my maniold a few times when i retourques them back on right. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
after that i got in a habbit to never reuse and never had an issue


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

I would have to agree that the first time you use a stretch bolt, it probably holds a lot better than after you re-use it. I think especially with turbo bolts. I have never had any of my other bolts back out, but I have also never had any turbo bolts (that have been re-used) stay in indefinitely. I am saving the ones I just bought until I install the new inserts from 04VdubGLI. I would have installed them already, except I recently installed the TT225 lower turbo bracket and so now it's more work to unmount the turbo...








Oops. I guess I owned the last 3 pages. Wasn't on purpose I swear.










_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 6:48 AM 11-20-2007_


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## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

UPDATE:
Im the one that posted a dyno with the crazy torque BS a couple pages back. I was very disappointed with the numbers. but i think they are low because i had the white tops and didnt have any o2 sensors nor a functioning MAF causing it run stupid rich; why it blew flame. I just ordered, both front and rear o2 sensors, new tt MAF, tt injectors, new spark plugs, new tt ignition coils and harness, getting my side exhaust even more free flowing and a couple other little things here and there i needed to fix. I will re-dyno when i get all of it installed and running. i have a VAG-COM and UNIsettings ready from when the parts get here so i can fine-tune this thing. Also! after this holiday season, expect Meth. I WILL GET GOOD NUMBERS out of this thing. im determined!!! wish me luck


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

fedor, i told u to get tt injectors along time ago!!!!!
i gave you a ride in my car before i sold it right?


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## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_fedor, i told u to get tt injectors along time ago!!!!!
i gave you a ride in my car before i sold it right?

everyone told me to get them but i didnt because i figured a kit is a kit and i shouldnt have to add parts to it to make it run properly. you know? and no, i dont think ive been in your car since Cloudia gave me a ride in it once a long ass time ago!


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## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (Fuze911)*

Well I think the k04 has killed my clutch. I can't say for sure because I've never experienced a failing clutch before but the past couple days the car feels like it loses traction in almost every gear then grabs at like 5000 RPM.
What are you guys running for 02m clutches? And did you keep the stock flywheel? If not what do you have and do you experience a lot of chatter. 
Boo this sucks, these clutches aren't cheap!


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*

Southbend OFE or SPEC. To bad its a six speed and so expensive!


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_Well I think the k04 has killed my clutch. I can't say for sure because I've never experienced a failing clutch before but the past couple days the car feels like it loses traction in almost every gear then grabs at like 5000 RPM.
What are you guys running for 02m clutches? And did you keep the stock flywheel? If not what do you have and do you experience a lot of chatter. 
Boo this sucks, these clutches aren't cheap!


Honestly, my clutch is still a stocker @ just shy of 56k. I'm surprised it's still hanging in there, but it is. (knock on wood) I'm going to be running the Performance-Cafe stg3 02m setup when I need a new clutch. It's a 228mm disk and the perk is that it's a 13lb steel flywheel. So, ideally... it won't chatter too badly. From what I've been told, it chatters as much as a 5spd w/a lightweight FW.


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## mj6234 (Jan 24, 2002)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_

Honestly, my clutch is still a stocker @ just shy of 56k. I'm surprised it's still hanging in there, but it is. (knock on wood) I'm going to be running the Performance-Cafe stg3 02m setup when I need a new clutch. It's a 228mm disk and the perk is that it's a 13lb steel flywheel. So, ideally... it won't chatter too badly. From what I've been told, it chatters as much as a 5spd w/a lightweight FW. 

Why would you go from a 240mm clutch to a 228mm one?


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## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (mj6234)*

b/c it cost 10x more than a 228mm and it is easier to find a 228mm vr6 puck than a 240mm (upgraded, anyway). And the 228mm is known to hold lots of power... 02vw1.8t has ran 350whp on it and is still beating on it... well was before the did the awd conversion.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

yall gotta learn how to drive, i had 75k hard miles with lots of 1/4 mile passes and my clutch was great. 25k of the 75 was on the k04 also


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

btw the best clutch for a 02m is stock one


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## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_yall gotta learn how to drive, i had 75k hard miles with lots of 1/4 mile passes and my clutch was great. 25k of the 75 was on the k04 also

truth... I went 106k miles on stock clutch with many passes, stock, chiped, and k04'ed. As well as alot of stop and go traffic. Me learning how to drive stick with it. I took it out and still had at least 1 more year and a few more passes left on the .25 mile


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

i have 155k on my stock clutch and its barely holding, just waiting to pick up a euro G60 FW to go with my stg2 clutch im ready to go...im surprised the clutch has lasted this long...


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

alot of people think they can drive a stick when in reality they ride the clutch or abuse the clutch by using it to much. also not using the clutch enough can also wear a clutch out. 
the stock 02m clutches can handle way more output than a k0420 can do even with w/m or any other additive. so theirs no need for a aftermarket clutch unless you can get a unbelieveable deal, but then with more clamping force a aftermarket clutch can wear faster also by the same driver who "cant" drive a stick in the right fashion. i would say over 60 percent of the stick owners on this website abuse their clutch in some way or another and dont realize it.
with my dsm;s i have dealt with a few companies, one of them bieng southbend, now this was almost 5 years ago when they first came out but there clutches are top notch, a guy from CM broke off and started his own thing.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

My clutch has 108,000 miles on it and still feels brand new. My Vr6 clutch and 14lb flywheel are just sitting in my garage. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I bought my car brand new in 2001 and chipped it at around 1,000 miles so my stock clutch has held up pretty good for all these years and miles. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

stock flywheel ftw. lightend flywheels are for the birds


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## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

I've got 75k on mine and its not that I don't know how to drive. I had a vw w/ 168,000 miles (parents bought new) that I learned how to drive on and that clutch held up till I sold the car. There has been something weird with this car for awhile, my peddle pressure required alot more force than other VW's and I've driven about 300 different ones this year (work at a dealer). I'm not sure how that works because it is hydraulic, maybe I damaged the throwout bearing awhile ago?
I'm torn on what to do. I can get another stock o2m for a reasonable price but I have the motto when somethings broke make it better. I'm pretty sure I'm going to stick with the stock flywheel because the price gets pretty expensive and I don't want to experience clutch chatter. Although I swear almost every mk5 TDI has clutch chatter I have a feeling this will be alot worse than them.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

aftermarket wont be better always and not in this case, so you may wanna abanden that motto for this one


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

If you do get a new clutch, make sure it works with the stock pressure plate. I had an ECS stage 3 clutch and one day my slave cylinder decided to pack up and my beautiful clutch got covered in brake fluid. Then I found I couldn't use almost any other disc than the ECS one. If I had a stock pressure plate, then buying just a replacement disc would have been a lot more affordable, some of the best ones are under $200 if you get them without a pressure plate.
I also think that dropping the clutch a lot with a solid sprung disc can cause problems, maybe that is what ended up killing the slave. The stock clutch seemed really weak, I was able to bend it with just my hands. Literally looked like it could fly apart. But so far it's worked out fine.
I wonder if a stock 228mm clutch/flywheel/plate setup would be lighter and cheaper to replace in the future. There are also more options for that size, such as slightly lightened flywheels (like 18lbs instead of 9)...
One benefit to solid discs (kevlar and/or pucks) is that it makes the car a lot harder to drive for the average person who is used to stock clutches. I was able to force valets and dealers to let me drive the car, which I really preferred. Most people couldn't just get in my car and drive it with the stage 3... Everyone who said they could would immediately stall it out and then hand me the keys.










_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 4:46 AM 11-23-2007_


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

well theres also no reason for a solid sprung clutch in a dialy driver and or any mk4, no mk4 on the street is making the power for that clutch. those cutches are for serious drag racers only really


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

everyone have a good turkey day?


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## jrj32789 (Feb 13, 2006)

outta curiosity, how much psi are you guys pushing on this turbo for the pump gas tune? i know everyones gonna have different answers, but i was running 22-23 psi on stock turbo and still unsure how much im gonna push this one.


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

ran 25 on pump and race ended up around 20-21 at redline


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

I run 22 spike and 18 hold to redline. I could set it to as high as 26 with MBC but still only holds 18 till redline on 93 oct. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:50 AM 11-26-2007_


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## jettasmooth (Aug 7, 2002)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Someone should really work on an up-pipe for the K04-023 swap that is less than $250!!!
For the price I paid for the adapter pipe, I was expecting something a little more professionally made. Some of the welds on this thing are extremely poor craftsmanship.








I don't know, someone should start competing with pro-imports on this, cause it could save some people alot of money down the road


_Modified by jettasmooth at 12:13 PM 11-26-2007_


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## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (jettasmooth)*

Couldnt agree more. The fit is crap anyway http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


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## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

im running about 21-22 spike and hold 16 to redline

_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_I run 22 spike and 18 hold to redline. I could set it to as high as 26 with MBC but still only holds 18 till redline on 93 oct. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:50 AM 11-26-2007_

what MBC are you using? is it inline with the N75? or did you delete the N75?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_im running about 21-22 spike and hold 16 to redline
what MBC are you using? is it inline with the N75? or did you delete the N75?

Well im not running any MBC at the moment. Just straight N75J valve. WHen I do use my MBC, it is a boostvalve MBC inline with the N75j valve.


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## jrj32789 (Feb 13, 2006)

thanks guys, im at 19-20 now holds 18 to red. i am using a manual boost controller inline with n75, and saw it spiking to 25 and immediatly let off unsure of what others were running on pump. ill turn it back up to about 23 then. Just got my car back today actually from DEVO for a new custom 3" DP for $190 because i couldn't convince myself to buy PI's adapter. very loud last few days...


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

guys you dont understand with this adaptor, GHL makes them for PI and doesnt cut PI a deal like you would think on them for a few reasons. the tooling needed to make the severe bend and the metal used to make the bend isnt what you find off ghl's shelf, hell ghl had to get new tooling just to make the bend. thats why its so much money


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## jrj32789 (Feb 13, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

maybe so, but its still too much for me. i personally think ghl's exhaust is also way overpriced too, so now the PI pricing makes sense to me. just my opinion. to each their own.


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (jrj32789)*

Yeap, it is a pain to mandrel bend such a short thick piece of SS piping! My car is loud as hell too! Get use to it especially if you have a full 3 inch TB. I have 3 inch GHL with high-flow cat + EUROJET 3 inch resonated CAT BACK and it is wayyyy to load especially under WOT at high velocity. I believe it is due to the muffler design that EUROJET used of the straight 3 inch muffler coming out a 4 inch tip. I was contemplating on removing the high flow cat but maybe i'll leave it on to keep it quiet.







I miss my REMUS muffler!










_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:44 PM 11-26-2007_


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (jrj32789)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jrj32789* »_thanks guys, im at 19-20 now holds 18 to red. i am using a manual boost controller inline with n75, and saw it spiking to 25 and immediatly let off unsure of what others were running on pump. ill turn it back up to about 23 then. Just got my car back today actually from DEVO for a new custom 3" DP for $190 because i couldn't convince myself to buy PI's adapter. very loud last few days...

Maybe others can chime in here but my experience is that the turbo gets much hotter, much faster, when you go above 16-19psi. You may get better HP readings on a dyno but in the real world, once you boost like that a few times, you'll be running so much hotter that you will notice a reasonable drop in performance.
This turbo can take it, but that doesn't mean it's the best option, IMO. If you were to run ~17psi, you would never have heatsoak and you could push it as hard as you wanted all day long, on hot days, and even probably increase your timing a bit.


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## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

I have no room to install the PCV check valve so i'm looking for a check valve for a 5/8" hose to install between the catch can and tip. Does anyone have a link? Thanks


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bluebomber* »_I have no room to install the PCV check valve so i'm looking for a check valve for a 5/8" hose to install between the catch can and tip. Does anyone have a link? Thanks

All you need right there. I replaced all my OEM checkvalves with these. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
http://www.usplastic.com/catal...15641


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## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

I only see up to 3/8" on that site. Thats actually where I was just looking http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*

WHy are you putting a checkvalve in between your catch can and tip? No need! The catch can itself is sufficient. And why are you using 5/8? Use 3/4 inch hose. Or did your catchcan come with 5/8 barbs. Mine came with 3/4 barbs so i could use oem size. if you really want a safe guard you can leave the flying saucer on also. If i could find my catch can thread i'll link the thread.


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## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Yeah it has 5/8" barbs.
Id use the stock thingy but its to tight down there already


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*

Here is an informative catch can thread by k04-20 users.








http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...36145


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i replaced my pcv every 10k and never had issues. if i were to keep the car i would have done a catch can i am sure.
and yes this turbo will heatsoak fast but will heatsoak past 12 psi belive it or not if you beat on it on a hot or cold day. i remember i set my mbc to 12 psi on a nice cold night, i belive it was 33 degrees out and and after 3 pulls the turbo was still bright red. when a turbo glows like that you bet ur butt its pretty much blowing hot air and will really benefit from a nice cool down. although i never noticed it in the driver seat but it was there i am surefor 350 bills OBO. this was done by nick at revo when he was in town doing work for PI
with my BF SMIC even on 90 degree days i didnt heat soak really with 24-5 psi pegs.(now if i pegged it over 4 or 5 times then i am sure i will see a sign f fatuige from the heat. its all really in the tune and or cooling. a tad lean will help contribute to a heat soak condition
btw i am selling the custom dyo tuned revo PCM


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## yohimbe (Jun 13, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

@ jettasmooth
could you measure the upipe for me ? It looks like it has a 90degree angle between both flanges, use a paper , draw a line on the half and bend the paper at the line , put on your workbench or a table use something (metal log) to get a 90 degree angle, put the paper in this corner and caulk the uppipe flanges on the paper, or if the uppipe is dirty, press it on the paper.
because of my bad english I draw a picture for better understanding.








I want to make a copy of the uppipe, and maybe if Iam able to do a cheap copy I can offer it to interessted people for a low buck. pm me for my adress.

edit: if not 90 degree than you can do it with a steel plate, but I have to know the angle then


_Modified by yohimbe at 5:40 AM 11-27-2007_


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

good luck, its greater than 90 degrees. and i can pretty much promise you no local shop will be able to bend it, your only shot is doing slant cuts, which isnt a issue really but looks ugly. still functions the same tho.
the piece is so short and the bend is so severe that even ghl stretched the bend beyond belief, if you look closely at the pipe in person you can see stress marks. this is why they could not use thier standard ss pipe they use for exhaust. thin pipe bends easy but its harder to weld the thicker flanges too without warping, then thinner flanges make it hard to mill flat. thicker pipe will just crack, and if it doesnt crack it will buckle and look more like a press bend with wave lines when trying to bend that severe of a bend.
if you wanna nickle and dime it, take a stock audi tt downpipe to a exhaust shop, have them use just the upper bend and have them fab up the rest, that easier then trying to have them fab the audi tt bend to the k03 style downpipe. if they did it that way they can do it bt will be ugly and most likely not a 3 inch since it limited on space around there with that configuration.
i can understand why you wanna look for cheaper routes, but to be real honest when paying a shop to fab up somthing thats a true 3 inch in stainless your only gonna save around 60-50 bucks really.
its not worth it time or money wise for other companies to make these bends either. you would think they would make money in doing so but you gotta take in the facts, for a shop to make bends and make it worth their while, they need to sell atleast 10 a week at minimum pretty much forever. they need to find a shop that has tooling(very hard and expensive) and if they made it themselves they need to buy the tooling(once again it cost alot)
GHL had to buy special tooling for the severe bend and had to source special pipes to bend up.
pi has looked elsewere for the pipes to make them cheaper belive it or not, but they only shop that came close said theyll only do it in mild steel, and with what they charged PI would only be saving you around 40 bux.
its worth it to buy the up pipe from PI, you may not think so now but look around for price wise to get somthing fabbed up, it wont be as nice of quality as the pi pipe and i dont know about you guys but i only put the best and nice stuff on my ride, not cheap ugly half ass stuff.
for those that have had somthing fabbed up, what did you pay honestly?


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## aircooled56 (Jul 6, 2006)

Ok, after straining to gain some knowledge after back tracking through countless pages of "stuff" I've came to a conclusion. One of you guys that frequents this post alot should work on something more comprehensive for us noobs. I just picked up a KO4-22 last week as a novelty "maybe I'll get around to this someday" project. But gaining some insight into doing this project as a whole is a chore when you have to read through so much material. What we really need here is a DIY or index of somesort? Any volunteers? It's getting to be winter time there should be someone out there bored enough










_Modified by aircooled56 at 9:03 PM 11-27-2007_


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## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (aircooled56)*

Here you go http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3562254


_Quote, originally posted by *aircooled56* »_Ok, after straining to gain some knowledge after back tracking through countless pages of "stuff" I've came to a conclusion. One of you guys that frequents this post alot should work on something more comprehensive for us noobs. I just picked up a KO4-22 last week as a novelty "maybe I'll get around to this someday" project. But gaining some insight into doing this project as a whole is a chore when you have to read through so much material. What we really need here is a DIY or index of somesort? Any volunteers? It's getting to be winter time there should be someone out there bored enough









_Modified by aircooled56 at 9:03 PM 11-27-2007_


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## aircooled56 (Jul 6, 2006)

You rock, thank you very much...time to do a little more shopping I guess, my turbo didn't even come with oil lines, booo.


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## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (Bluebomber)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bluebomber* »_Here you go http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3562254




__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view










Thats a great DIY! What did you do about the lines into the combi valve. My TIP rests right up against it. Does the combi valve rotate? I've never even tried, its just unconnected right now. 
EDIT: It looks like you have a little bit more room to play with since you used the stock TT tip. I don't think I could angle mine back any further w/o creating other issues.


_Modified by TooLFan46n2 at 12:50 AM 11-28-2007_


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*

My TT225 APR TIP had the problem of resting right on the combi-valve vacuum port. I since switched to a Forge TIP and it doesn't have that problem. The APR was about ready to bust a hole in itself. On a real TT225, the airbox is slightly closer to the turbo than it is on our cars.


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

thats why i like the PI adaptor for the TIPs. you can rotate the upper half to be perfect


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_thats why i like the PI adaptor for the TIPs. you can rotate the upper half to be perfect

No problems here!


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i never ran it either, i had the samco tip, i had no issues with hitting or rubbing anything. the adaptor is for the tips that dont fit that well such as stock, apr, or the cheap chinese knock off ones


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

I too have SAMCO. I have at least 2 inches maybe more between the combivalve and the TIP. After i removed the 3 useless vacuum hardlines that were inbetween the combivalve and TIP it freed up lots of space. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
These 3 useless vacuum hardlines that SAV is holding. For those of you that don't know what i'm talking about.










_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:30 AM 11-28-2007_


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## ullbsory1.8t (Apr 9, 2006)

Just in case some of you are interested, or knows anyone, who wants a Ko4-xx, just IM me or leave a post..... http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3564878


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_thats why i like the PI adaptor for the TIPs. you can rotate the upper half to be perfect

What adaptor?


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Well, I don't know if anyone on here will really care at this point, but I'll toss it out there quickly.
So, my car is still somewhat ridden with issues, but for the most part it's running again and can take some abuse. 
My initial reaction with the Forge Wastegate Actuator:
Well, I've gone through basically 1 full turbo swap (the motions at least) and 2 turbo drops (and counting) since I began this project with the Forge WGA. Now, it's unfair to say that any of these issues are due to the WGA. But, I'll give my story how I lived it. The issues began with not having all possible parts (i.e. the turbo inserts, the correct nuts for studs, etc...) or not having the exact correct parts. I've learned the hard way that these turbos have some UNUSUAL pieces and that they get VERY expensive for stupid little things. But, these hardships aside (which anyone can easily avoid by doing more research or by asking me) I finally have had some time to open the car up a bit (still haven't really hammered it yet). So this is where my real review begins...
Many people do not consider that there is a weakness in a stock WGA. Realistically, it's perfect for stock boost, but for additional boost, ideally one runs a WGA that has a spring that is a minimum of 50% of the boost they intend to run. The stock spring rate is 5-7psi, or roughly 10-14psi max. Now, the N75 will do its part to help keep your WGA closed when you want it to be, but there still is a certain boundary to the stock spring. The Forge WGA, which I am currently running, comes with 4 springs (much like their DVs) ranging from 5psi to 20+psi ratings. So you can dial in from 10psi to 40psi and be near ideal conditions. I'm currently running the spring that is rated 9-15psi. I also run with my N75 and basically a stock configuration (minus some vac lines that are not related to boost regulation). 
Thus far my experience with this setup has been a little different than I would have expected. A good part of my expected to put this WGA on and either feel a world of difference (unlikely in my mind) or no notable difference. Well, as with most things, I've arrived to something in the middle. With how I currently have the WGA set up, it's running off the N75 and is running an old SPS3 setting of HB6. Currently I'm seeing basically the same boost levels as before I did the WGA. However, there are some differences in how the car is running. The partial throttle is identical, if not marginally better, to the stock WGA (this was a huge concern w/a stiffer spring rate). The weird thing about this is that the turbo actually sounds different and that boost comes on slightly differently. The only thing I can figure is that the turbo sounds differently (from about 10 inHg to 5psi) due to the fact that the wastegate is reacting differently. The boost seems to react more quickly with this new WGA as well. The boost still does the same thing it did with the stock WGA (10ish psi til around 3800rpms+). However, this is what I wanted as I am running N75. Now, one could easily put the heaviest, or next to heaviest, spring in the actuator and run w/o N75 and easily peg it at 20+psi all day long. 
The one thing that I'm sure everyone is wondering is whether or not it's worth the money. I.E. is there a performance gain? Well, that I cannot truly report yet. I need to run some logs and see what my actual v requested boost is and try to see if I can get some additional proof by running someone I know the outcome of already. I'll do all of these things once I get the little issues worked out. My guess is that I'll see more boost if I set my SPS3 higher, but currently I'm not trying to do anything except get everything 100%. I'll report back w/logs to see if anything is different and also with real world reports (my butt-dyno is crap and my friend's says faster, but butt-dynos are pointless). But, in the meantime, I'd like to say that the Forge WGA seems to be a great product and also seems to be a worthwhile upgrade for anyone here who is planning on really pushing this turbo and seeing what it really can do. Afterall, as I've learned, the spring rate of the WGA is a big factor on how boost is produced and held







.


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## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

dyno


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (bmxp)*

I'm running the Forge actuator with the stiffest spring and I make about 18 or 19psi all day long (no N75). It's smooth and part throttle is nearly perfect. I would estimate that with w/m, it's got to be making about the 280whp that PI advertised. I haven't dynoed because just as I was ready to, my cat blew and so I have to get that taken care of first.
Even with the broken cat, I can break traction in first gear and not regain it until part way through 3rd - while still picking up some serious speed. If you start out in first with a little jerk of the wheel, you can slip and slide all over the place, almost like drifting.
Previously I had run with the same setup, only without using methanol (water, washer fluid!). That really messed things up, fouled everything that could be fouled. Once I replaced all the O2's and spark plugs, and started using real methanol, the difference these mods made really showed.
Only issue with running without an N75 is part-throttle during warm-up can be pretty jerky. I usually let it warm up a bit before I start driving and it's ok.


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## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

to replace the WGA does the turbo have to come off? Im pretty sure my WG is leaking, you can hear it BIG TIME


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

I doubt if you can hear it leaking. See if you can get an air compressor and blow 5-7lbs of air into it and see if it opens the wastegate and if it leaks. You can change the wastegate without taking the turbo off, but the first time it's pretty hard to figure out. I can get it off in under 5 minutes now, installing it again takes a bit longer, maybe 20 minutes.


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_I doubt if you can hear it leaking. See if you can get an air compressor and blow 5-7lbs of air into it and see if it opens the wastegate and if it leaks. You can change the wastegate without taking the turbo off, but the first time it's pretty hard to figure out. I can get it off in under 5 minutes now, installing it again takes a bit longer, maybe 20 minutes.









This completely depends on your coolant line setup. I was running the PI water feed line and I had to drop my turbo to get my stock WGA off and the new one on. FWIW, to get the PI line on I had to use a spacer under it to clear the stock WGA. Also, beyond that, to get at the feed line (i.e. to remove it so I could access the bolt that held the top portion of the WGA on) I had to drop the turbo. However, I am now running the stock Audi TT water feed line... which does allow for access to the bolt holding the WGA on. If I wanted to change it now, I could easily do it in around 10minutes. So, the answer is 20 minutes up to 20 days... pending on your setup. I had the latter originally.


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## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

So i just installed my AEM wideband A/f gauge and o2 sensor. And my car runs stupid rich! it never ran like this before. I'm pretty sure the stock o2 sensor was toast so the readings it was giving the ecu was wrong.
The car always ran a little rich before, but now it sputters like crazy and the gauge maxes out!! even when im driving normally







SHould i try putting the 3 bar back in? running Revo BT, 380cc (TT225), no maf, 4bar. and the setup has never been tuned. Or do i just need some LW tunning?
Heres some pics of the setup


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

your a-pillar is installed wrong.
i use to work for 42 making those pods








also drill holes in the sides next to the gauge, otherwise youll be buying a new gauge soon (wideband)
blue tops need a 4bar, white tops need a 3, with no maf and blue tops you should run a 3bar


_Modified by 200320thAE2632 at 6:27 PM 12-1-2007_


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## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

what he said, and oem TTs are 364cc not 380 mr.2632 and I can prove it.


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (bmxp)*

NO MAF= running rich. See how it runs with a MAF and 3 bar FPR!


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8 Neckbreaka* »_... running Revo BT, 380cc (TT225), no maf, 4bar. and...

You sure you are running a BT file? Or do you mean the K04 is a big t? I'm not debating whether it is or not, just wanted to know which file you are running. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

He's running a gt28r file, because he has an AWD motor and REVO does not make k04-20 sw for for AWD.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Wow I never heard of this. So it's supposed to work well? What's the difference? I heard it could work, I didn't know it was required (for certain engines I guess). We should definitely compare a dyno of it and closely inspect the differences in some comparable vag-com logs...


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_Wow I never heard of this. So it's supposed to work well? What's the difference? I heard it could work, I didn't know it was required (for certain engines I guess). We should definitely compare a dyno of it and closely inspect the differences in some comparable vag-com logs...

IIRC, this is what the first person running this setup on a VW did.


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

What do you mean by this?

_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
also drill holes in the sides next to the gauge, otherwise youll be buying a new gauge soon (wideband)
_Modified by 200320thAE2632 at 6:27 PM 12-1-2007_


And yes im running Revo Gt28rs file (440cc), i've never had luck with any MAFS so far...


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

Have you done any lemmiwinks tunning? That could be your problem right there. You have to tune and log via lemmiwinks to get the tune as close as possible to the setup. Especially fuel, timming, and boost tweaks. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 1.8 Neckbreaka (Dec 5, 2004)

No none of that yet... hopefully i'll get it to a shop and get it tuned...and maybe a dyno, if i figure out where my leak is...still think its the WGA


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (1.8 Neckbreaka)*

You sure it is your wastegate leaking and not the exhaust manifold or DP gasket?


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_Wow I never heard of this. So it's supposed to work well? What's the difference? I heard it could work, I didn't know it was required (for certain engines I guess). We should definitely compare a dyno of it and closely inspect the differences in some comparable vag-com logs...

i told you about that file a few times, its got major cold start issues for the 02m's and was never refined


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

For 02M's? Why? Who does it work well for? Pre-SAI cars?


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

revo never got the cold starts figured out, nor did they get the n75 adaption correct yet, they gave up on it since it wasnt a good seller. when they coded it for the first 02m's it was even worse wih the cold starts and adaption
the first guy with the k0420 swapped ride back in 03 in the usa used the 28r file and didnt like it to much, he ended up with the k0420 file then shortly sold the car after putting it back to stock, he had a nice clean setup too.
its not in revo's interest to mess around with the mk4 crap now with the mk5 being out. so dont expect anymore updates really


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

You got competition: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3574287


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i can make a k03 dyno that, just tell the dyno operator to not hook it up right


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## lax1492 (Jan 19, 2004)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

well a cranked wastegate and water meth im sure help a little... oh and the jet fuel he forgot to mention as well


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## Chimpy2330 (Sep 6, 2003)

*Re: (lax1492)*

hey how much will it cost me to run a setup like this? i already have revo stg2 i know i need the upgrade......so what else do i need? how much is the average price for the setup? and how hard is it to install in a 20th? thanks for any help http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Eric Luipers (Nov 6, 2007)

*Re: (Chimpy2330)*

I just got my k04-23 tuned with giac.. i'm currently running it with the phaeton maf sensor and housing .. I'm trying to get a 225 sensor to put in the housing, but the dealer is asking 280 and i'm having trouble sourcing a used one. Is there a cheaper vw equivalent of the sensor? Or does anybody wanna sell one?


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Tonight I'm going to post up my new logs of block 115 (AKA boost). I will admit, after seeing the "actual" difference, I'm pretty happy with my Forge WGA.







More to come later.


----------



## Chimpy2330 (Sep 6, 2003)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

can anyone help me out here???


----------



## Eric Luipers (Nov 6, 2007)

*Re: (Chimpy2330)*

chimpy. it cost me almost 2000 to get it running.. I bought the turbo, manifold, oil lines, and apr tip used with 12k miles for 400.. 200 of the 2k was used to replace the oil cooler bracket because i stripped a bolt..
and i that's without paying for labor.. I've never done a turbo swap before and it was a pretty simple install. The main part of the install was done in a day with one helper. 
The parts cost me $1000; the tune cost $700; labor if you're not doing it yourself might cost around $500.. and being as you already have revo sw, the tune would be a lot cheaper if you plan on running the revo file.

Now can anyone help me? heheh


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Eric Luipers)*

I run a 2.0sensor, which is equivalent to the vr6 sensor, in a vr6 housing. Revo works with the VR6/2.0 or 1.8t sensor. I don't know if it will work for GIAC. I would try the 1.8t sensor see how that works. You really have to run logs to see what works better. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Chimpy2330 (Sep 6, 2003)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

alright here is where i'm stuck...........i drive a 20th awp due to that something is diffrent i think it's a 90degree pipe so i want to know what specific parts i need to buy i'm ready to drop the money and get the parts i know i need an audi tt exhaust mani..........inlet pipe which one.......turbo is a k04-20 right???? for revo users the software is simply the k04-gt2 software right???? can someone send me specific parts inkectors and such.......PLEASE i'm ready to just buy it all help me out here thanks


----------



## lax1492 (Jan 19, 2004)

*Re: (Chimpy2330)*

relax no need to rush things.... tell you what call pro imports up ask about their kit tell them you have a 20th and go from there ... regardless if you buy "their" kit or not im sure they will tell you what you need to know


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

First Boost log.... (MBC)









New boost log... (Forge WGA)









Forgot to mention, seeing as people most likely don't want to translate the Mbar to PSI, at redline the graph is holding right around 18.3psi. So basically, you can see around 2psi gained at redline. Through the middle it's not horribly different, but 5000+ rpms and it holds better. I approve










_Modified by 04VDubGLI at 1:12 AM 12-9-2007_


----------



## Chimpy2330 (Sep 6, 2003)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

alright so i'm getting myself on some hardware........now on software what should i do??? any suggestions?? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (Chimpy2330)*

I use GIAC and have had zero issues. Cars ran flawless since the install. Not a single complaint here http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Chimpy2330)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Chimpy2330* »_alright so i'm getting myself on some hardware........now on software what should i do??? any suggestions?? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

If you have a unitronic dealer near you, you should go with UNITRONIC k04-20 SW. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Chimpy2330 (Sep 6, 2003)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

how about revo or apr?? only asking here.......i'm still in the air......i do have revo and i dont have issues with it, and i also have easy acess to apr


----------



## lax1492 (Jan 19, 2004)

*Re: (Chimpy2330)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Chimpy2330* »_how about revo or apr?? only asking here.......i'm still in the air......i do have revo and i dont have issues with it, and i also have easy access to apr

"Big Turbo" software is something way different then the "stage 1 chips " everyone puts out , I suggest you review this entire thread and there is a lot of important information for this kit. To be honest, unless you have some amazing deal on this kit or the parts I would go down a different road.
if you already bought software from Revo why dont you go with a turbo that works real weil with Revo. You spend $400-$500 for a chip ...did you buy an sps ? if so thats more you have already a lot invested. The to turn around and start from scratch is $$ unless you sell your ecu.


----------



## VdubSingh (Sep 1, 2007)

*Re: (lax1492)*

is anyone selling their up-pipe? im ready to buy asap


----------



## Chimpy2330 (Sep 6, 2003)

*Re: (VdubSingh)*

i got a deal on the hardware i mean a deal hard to resist..........the software was basically free....................and the upgrade for the software is cheap in my eyes so i dont mind going k04 and besides i go threw clutches and tranny work like bread and butter so i dont want to go super big i want a little more kick and have reliablity other then a bt which we all know gives you some serious issues when something does go down...... so anyone else have any other suggestions?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Chimpy2330)*

Apr does not make k04-20SW they make k04-001sw. It is always good to buy the correct SW for the correct HW. I have REVO k04-20 on my HW. If i was to choose Sw all over again for this kit my options would be; 1. Unitronics. 2. GIAC. 3. REVO. If you are already set on the k04-20 those are the only options available. I mean you could always use a k03sport SW, but you would have to tune it via lemmiwinks or whatever else is out there to tinker with the programming. Why go through the trouble of tuning an improper SW when you can just buy the right SW? If down the road you decide to get something similar and not to much bigger than the k04-2o, like lets say, a t3super60 or a gt28r you can use the k04-20 SW for those medium turbos.


----------



## Chimpy2330 (Sep 6, 2003)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

nice sooo since i already have revo i might as well use the revo k04-20 SW...........the kit i'm getting is with a k04-22 all new and for dirt cheap soo i guess that's the route i'm taking......hey thanks alot if you guys know anywhere on this post to read up more stuff just repaste it.....thanks alot


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Chimpy2330)*

20, 22, 23 all the same. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

For those new people doing k04 installs... 
These may be helpful.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3536524


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

22 has diff wastegate placement


----------



## Chimpy2330 (Sep 6, 2003)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

what kind of downpipe do i need to for this kind of setup?


----------



## Chimpy2330 (Sep 6, 2003)

*Re: (Chimpy2330)*

oops never mind i just saw the 90degree bend that i need


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## Chimpy2330 (Sep 6, 2003)

*Re: (Chimpy2330)*

where can i get that 90degree pipe? pro-imports?


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

yup


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Torn between Cat Cams 51/53. Anyone have any positive input on which would be better for this setup? I'm also going to go AEB eventually, but for now just call them being in my awp head.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Torn between Cat Cams 51/53. Anyone have any positive input on which would be better for this setup? I'm also going to go AEB eventually, but for now just call them being in my awp head.

You should get rods first, but if you are getting cams go with the 3651. I believe SOTIRIS from GREECE is going with the 3651 for his k04-20. After I do my rods I will also be going with the 3651. You should contact BOBQZZI on here and ask him about the differant cams he offers. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Are you going with cast iron or steel billet?
http://www.qedpower.com/catcamspage.htm


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 2:25 PM 12-12-2007_


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## jettasmooth (Aug 7, 2002)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

I should have some pictures of the K04-020 installed in a MK3 with the pro-imports downpipe adapter by the end of next week. Just a heads up for those interested in this setup http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Sodi Pop (Sep 22, 2007)

right now im running 
revo 2
3 inch catless dp
eip fmic
intake
how much hp would putting a k04 in give me


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Sodi Pop)*

Depends on what other supporting mods you will be adding or not adding. You could see anywhere from 220whp -300whp mod dependent. Lets say if you just put in the turbo kit with nothing else but what came in the kit you can see from 220whp to 240whp on 18lbs of boost and 93 oct. If you crank the boost, add race gas, water/meth, cams, rods, etc, etc, you can see from 260-290whp, maybe more. And im talking about a nice, consistant, smooth powerband worth of useable power not a 2 second spike like a k04-001. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_
You should get rods first, but if you are getting cams go with the 3651. I believe SOTIRIS from GREECE is going with the 3651 for his k04-20. After I do my rods I will also be going with the 3651. You should contact BOBQZZI on here and ask him about the differant cams he offers. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Are you going with cast iron or steel billet?
http://www.qedpower.com/catcamspage.htm

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 2:25 PM 12-12-2007_


Well, I spoke with Bob about the setup and he suggested the 51. However, the 53 has more overlap... I just don't know enough about cams to know which would perform better. If anyone could really read about them and explain them in regards to performance esp. in regards to this setup I'd really appreciate it. I don't plan on revving past say.. 7000rpms. I usually don't rev that high even. Also, I may eventually end up w/a 2871r. So I'm just trying to figure out where to go with this. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Additionally, IIRC, the 51 can run VVT/VCT, whereas the 53 cannot. PI does not really have an AWD file. They do have a "prototype" one, but it's strictly at the risk of the user. Which does in fact factor as well.


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## jettasmooth (Aug 7, 2002)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

After talking to reflexbug last night, there is no way that the PI up-pipe is going to fit my setup. Here is a pic showing how close the megan racing dp and outlet of the turbo are to each other:








I'm hoping I will be able to get my money back on the adapter.....


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (jettasmooth)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jettasmooth* »_After talking to reflexbug last night, there is no way that the PI up-pipe is going to fit my setup. Here is a pic showing how close the megan racing dp and outlet of the turbo are to each other:








I'm hoping I will be able to get my money back on the adapter.....


Dryer hose? Damn... That will take a sh*t ton of cut and welds to fab. It'll almost have to go out and back it looks.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
Additionally, IIRC, the 51 can run VVT/VCT, whereas the 53 cannot. PI does not really have an AWD file. They do have a "prototype" one, but it's strictly at the risk of the user. Which does in fact factor as well. 

Why or how would you utilize and AWD file on an AWP ecu? Narrowband = the suck!


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

theres another guy whos a mk3 who did a k0420 biiuld i would ask him
and yes why a awd file on awp?


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## jettasmooth (Aug 7, 2002)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_theres another guy whos a mk3 who did a k0420 biiuld i would ask him
and yes why a awd file on awp?

and which guy would that be?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_theres another guy whos a mk3 who did a k0420 biiuld i would ask him
and yes why a awd file on awp?


I'm not looking to run an AWD file, but I do need a file for a non-vvt engine. Non VVT so that I can run cams and no SAI. Pat told me that none of his files are setup that way, but there was a prototype AWD file, but it's something I would be risking.


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Also, does anyone here run a different fuel pump? Are there any issues with such? Or maybe just backing down the FPR? I'm going to be doing one eventually. Sooner than later, hopefully. I'm wondering if a 255 is overkill. I would just run a TT one, but I don't know if I'll find one or at what price.


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Also, does anyone here run a different fuel pump? Are there any issues with such? Or maybe just backing down the FPR? I'm going to be doing one eventually. Sooner than later, hopefully. I'm wondering if a 255 is overkill. I would just run a TT one, but I don't know if I'll find one or at what price. 

I run an APR stage 3 fuel pump which is an AUDI TT 225 fuel pump that has been modified to be a drop in. Keith from APR sold it to me for about 120.00 brand new. All you have to do is call him at APR and tell him you are interested in purchasing an APR stg 3 fuel pump and he will sell you one. That is what i did. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 7:47 AM 12-15-2007_


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## sotiris (Sep 24, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_
You should get rods first, but if you are getting cams go with the 3651. I believe SOTIRIS from GREECE is going with the 3651 for his k04-20. After I do my rods I will also be going with the 3651. You should contact BOBQZZI on here and ask him about the differant cams he offers. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Are you going with cast iron or steel billet?
http://www.qedpower.com/catcamspage.htm


i do not buy yet ....
i am thinking about.....















































_Modified by sotiris at 12:26 PM 12-15-2007_


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

not worth it, dont need it. PI can tell you why


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_not worth it, dont need it. PI can tell you why


What isn't worth what? And what will PI say about it?


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## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I want to hear this one too


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

It is said that cams won't give you any gains on an oem turbo, but unless they had cams on a k04-20 setup they can't give an opinion. Cams won't give you as much as if you had a Bt setup but they will give you some gains up top. I would get them. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_It is said that cams won't give you any gains on an oem turbo, but unless they had cams on a k04-20 setup they can't give an opinion. Cams won't give you as much as if you had a Bt setup but they will give you some gains up top. I would get them. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


I may be completely wrong on this, but I think the issue is that no one is willing to really push these turbos. My car is running probably the best I've ever had it run. I'm guessing somewhere around 250whp/280wtq currently. I think that an AEB head + cams would be worth 20 whp on the setup. Honestly, the thing that I think, at least hypothetically, is that the stock small port head is part of the issue with smaller turbos. Effectively they are setup to force velocity/tq. So, in my mind, I suspect that having a more open head/port would actually reduce "back pressure" caused by the head on the turbo. Thereby making it run more efficiently and probably even allowing for more boost. Additionally, I think cams will add something for anyone. Having the valves open for longer periods = more air. More air + more fuel = more power. I don't see how it can be any other way?


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_

I may be completely wrong on this, but I think the issue is that no one is willing to really push these turbos. My car is running probably the best I've ever had it run. I'm guessing somewhere around 250whp/280wtq currently. I think that an AEB head + cams would be worth 20 whp on the setup. Honestly, the thing that I think, at least hypothetically, is that the stock small port head is part of the issue with smaller turbos. Effectively they are setup to force velocity/tq. So, in my mind, I suspect that having a more open head/port would actually reduce "back pressure" caused by the head on the turbo. Thereby making it run more efficiently and probably even allowing for more boost. Additionally, I think cams will add something for anyone. Having the valves open for longer periods = more air. More air + more fuel = more power. I don't see how it can be any other way?

I totally agree. No one has ever pushed a k04-20 turbo to the max as they have a k03sport and k04-001. Once I finish paying my car off in April, I will be trying to push this turbo to the max. I know Sotiris in Greece is trying to do the same. By the summer I plan on having my rods in there, water/meth, and a few more things. I have also been thinking about an AEB head and better intake manifold for the AEb head. I know this turbo is capable of 300whp maybe more with the right supporting mods. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

not talking about cams, talking about the fuel pump. i never looked into cames on a 1.8t
i can tell you all the high HP vr turbo guys run stock cams


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## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_I totally agree. No one has ever pushed a k04-20 turbo to the max as they have a k03sport and k04-001. Once I finish paying my car off in April, I will be trying to push this turbo to the max. I know Sotiris in Greece is trying to do the same. By the summer I plan on having my rods in there, water/meth, and a few more things. I have also been thinking about an AEB head and better intake manifold for the AEb head. I know this turbo is capable of 300whp maybe more with the right supporting mods. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Water meth is cool. definitely worth the money. I also plan on taking this as far as it will go.
There is a chance that I will get a GTRS or GT25 but my plan is to stick with this turbo setup as much as possibe. I.e., I might consider the TT225 version of the ATP eliminator or something (I believe they only make it as a GTRS and not the 2871 or bigger turbos). I was thinking about doing that and exploring a hybrid cold-side that would have (if possible) a better compressor wheel and an inlet that would fit a TT225 TIP. This way the turbo would be slightly better while still being almost completely TT225 stock-appearing.
I would also want a 2.0 stroked AEB and an APR intake mani. Not that APR is the best but it's all overkill for this turbo or anything like it so I'd want it for the cool factor and the build quality. Also balanced internals would be nice, so it can rev a bit higher and maybe run smoother too.
Also, anyone know about oil coolers? I mean the Vr6 has them and their oil shouldn't be hotter should it?
Right now, all funds are being diverted from the usual mods to this new CarPC setup I'm building. It's almost ready to be installed, I'm excited. The bonus will be 24/7 VAG-COM logging, which up until now has always been a problem for me, since I've never had PC's. Might even setup the CarPC to control my boost - they make these things called "Phidgets" that are controllable I/O boards which connect to USB and are accessible via visual basic and other languages... they have a pressure sensor, a servo/stepper motor driver, relays, temp sensors, etc. (see http://www.phidgets.com).
I only hope that my addiction to car parts isn't now doubled into two categories: performance parts & CarPC parts.







... or that if it does fester my addition, I hope I somehow figure out a way to afford that besides skipping meals or working harder.










_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 9:17 AM 12-16-2007_


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

My friend has a 3076 and makes 420whp w/a stock head + stock cams + stock intake manifold, etc etc. That doesn't mean it's not a smart idea to do those things. You will make more power with them. Money/Goals are reasons not to do these things, but claiming that it can be done another way or that it's not worth it is worthless for everyone. Nothing personal, but VW people are all this way. For whatever reason none of them are willing to actually explore the options they have. A small percentage of people w/1.8ts run cams. For the longest I recall reading about how cams are worthless on these heads blah blah blah. Recently they have started to become popular though. But still people say that they're worthless for stock turbos/k04s/etc... then everyone jumps on the bandwagon. The first response you'll get if you even THINK about posting something about cams on this damn forum is "get a bigger turbo, it's better bang for the buck." Or the "search it" or the "cams don't do anything"." Whatever the response typically is, that's what this thread is supposed to be good for - discussing k04-020 options. No one in this thread wants to hear how this turbo is garbage or how it's too small, how the powerband sucks, or whatever. It's been discussed what a basic k04-020 setup will make on average, now we're discussing how to improve the average/max. 
In regards to a fuel pump, I don't find it to be at all necessary for the basic setup, but I think that if you're going to do anything further that it could possibly really make the stocker run hard. If APR could have gotten away without including one in their setup I'm sure they would have. Realistically, I'm going to make APR stg3 power on this setup w/o WMI, so I think it would be a good safety measure.


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## sotiris (Sep 24, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## HTLang (Oct 15, 2007)

*Re: (sotiris)*

My 92 Passat Syncro 1.8TT hybrid downpipe. I am using the TT dual cat and custom stainless 2.5 piping with no resonator and a cheap stainless muffler. I wonder what will it sound like? I havent finished the swap yet.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

not true, all the high HP vr guys make more power on stock cams cause aftermarket cam on vr's loose power, now i know not all cars are the same but these k04 2s do not push all that much air than a ko3s. ill put it this way. i am willing to put up the title to my charger, if someone makes atleast 5+ HP across the whole band with a set of cams on a 1.8t with k0420 and off the shelf sw
also i already made apr stage 3 power with my basic k0420 setup, shouldnt be hard for anyone else
i tracked down the new owner of my car and he just dynod his car after adding on a side exhaust and actually lost 4hp in doing so out of the 3 pulls he did over my last 3 pulls with the car. hes also on the stock 84k mile clutch http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 200320thAE2632 at 12:09 AM 12-17-2007_


----------



## sotiris (Sep 24, 2007)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

here in greece they put the intake cam of 20v 1.8 (non turbo)
with giac on k04 and they see +7-10 hp.... all over the curve.....
i will try this for the begining it is to cheap to try ( 200 Euro...)
i will post before and after dyno when i will do that......


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_i can tell you all the high HP vr turbo guys run stock cams

Not true http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

schimmel builds some of the fastest VR's, he only ues stock cams, he built the fastest in the states right now with that record yet to be broken and its using stock cams like all of his builds do. post up in the forced induktion forum and the vr guys will tell you 90 percent of the high HP VR guys make the most power on stock cams


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_schimmel builds some of the fastest VR's, he only ues stock cams, he built the fastest in the states right now with that record yet to be broken and its using stock cams like all of his builds do. post up in the forced induktion forum and the vr guys will tell you 90 percent of the high HP VR guys make the most power on stock cams

so why would he have this: http://www.schimmelperformance....html


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

for people who think they "need" cams.
ask him yourself, he recomends stock cams on the vr whenever he can, still these are 1.8ts. a whole diff motor, but i still feel cams would be a waste on this turbo and not yield gains like people seem to think
dont forget i had a k0420 myself and one of the pioneers working with PI on there add on pieces to help do it. PI looked into every possible cofiguration to make more power, tubular manifolds, thermal wraps, cams, piggybacks, exhausts, intake manifolds, etc...
pat isnt oblivious to this kit like some may think, he didnt just throw it all together and bam here it is. he was working on putting together a kit that would make power no matter what parts came with the kit. but afteforr all testing, he came back to the conclusion all those BS add ons he worked with didnt yeild what he thought and hoped it would. it does really suck, if this were not true i would have hung onto my k0420 20th and gone way crazy with it. me and pat had already worked up plans for a euro spec bottom end, external gate with custom dsm style 02 housing in place of up-pipe and pretty much messing around with a k0420/k26 hybrid with a custom built manifold and 034. no w/m though, i am against that
i decided to scrap the idea cause all the money later and what maybe 50 more HP if that.
wether you wanna admit it or not these little guys are being worked pretty dam hard, and yea you may get some of those guys who try to get crazy numbers like those k03 guys, but those are not real world numbers, those k03 cars hold 250wwhp for a second or two, and dont daily like that. sure a k0420 can be pushed a tad harder and achieve 260+ whp but much like a k03, only for a few seconds. what fun is that?


_Modified by 200320thAE2632 at 5:58 AM 12-19-2007_


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Let's not get into a debate of schimmel or VRT. yeah they have some of the fastest vr6's in the country and? They have tons of design flaws with some of their products, people still buy that ish. because it works, doesn't mean it's optimal. ie their cams, intake manifold etc etc


----------



## lax1492 (Jan 19, 2004)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_..... because it works, doesn't mean it's optimal. ie their cams, intake manifold etc etc

so are we saying that cams are not worth it here( for our application ) from the above conversations ?


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (lax1492)*


_Quote, originally posted by *lax1492* »_
so are we saying that cams are not worth it here( for our application ) from the above conversations ?

How do you guys want your power band? The turbo obviously spools reasonably early but holds boost much better then the smaller k-series turbo's. If you want to move the power to the right a little bit to keep and hold the power better up top cams and an intake manifold will help if designed for those parameters. It all depends on how far you guys want to take your set ups? 
If Trevor wants, I'll gladly help him set up his car for this. I know he has an ABD intake manifold, not sure if he's installed it. Although it's not an optimal design it will work reasonably well for this set up due to it's short runners and larger plenum. I suggest he installs it and re-dynoes his car to see what kind of gains it will show with just the intake manifold alone first. 
I am sure you guys have seen the intake manifold thread comparison...
*Comparison:*

















*ABD:*








*Stock:*


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Hey Val, haven't talked to ya in a while, sorry, I've been kind of MIA - just got my wisdoms yanked. 
Anyhow, I need to take you for a ride sometime over my holiday break as I now have my car running well. The ABD is on and the new Forge WGA is also on. I actually have some logs showing the difference in G/S and PSI since I've done the Forge WGA. I'm sending them over to Pat @ Forge for his own personal info on my setup. Anyhow, I'm definitely planning on finally posting my dyno on here (from when I went w/you and Mark - running MBC) and then I'm going to get a new dyno w/the ABD and the Forge WGA - running N75. So everyone can plan to see that soon. I can honestly say that the ABD on "stock WGA (i.e. lower boost)" made a noticeable difference. And the WGA made a noticeable difference. And FWIW, my fuel trims/corrections have gotten better since doing both. So I'm expecting to see a significantly better curve. The numbers may not be much higher, but I expect they'll be a good bit more linear than my first dyno. Also, I am in the market for cams and I'll have to talk with you about those soon. I have a few options in mind. Let me know when you're free after Christmas. -Trevor


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Does anyone know how to remove the turbine housing from the turbo? How difficult is it? How hard is it to line up? Etc etc. I'm thinking about porting mine out for some better flow. Any ideas?


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

jus remove the bolts and off it comes, its not a wheel pressed in the housing like the k03 or k04001
i would post my opinion on doing that but the nay sayers will just say that it gains 20whp from doing this hahahaha


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

dude it gains 20whp from this


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (bmxp)*

i can always count on you bro


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_jus remove the bolts and off it comes, its not a wheel pressed in the housing like the k03 or k04001
i would post my opinion on doing that but the nay sayers will just say that it gains 20whp from doing this hahahaha

Ok, so there's no reason to remove the feed/return lines at all? How does it seal?


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

if its never been off it will have some black/dark green sealant


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_if its never been off it will have some black/dark green sealant


Any info on said sealant? Sorry, I just need to be sure that when I take it off I'll get it 100% back on and everything. Thanks for the help.


----------



## 20aeman (Jun 8, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I've never truly understood the "k series turbo doesn't flow enough for cams" argument. You figure a normally aspirated car is limited in flow to 14.7 psi atmospheric. So yeah, the earths atmosphere it the limitation, and can only push so much air into the vacuum that is the cumbustion chamber. Yet gains from cams are still made. So, a KO3s that supplies even more pressure on top of atmospheric is limited in flow? 
I will say this much. I will bet money that cams will make power on a k03-k04 whatever. As to how much power, and whether the money spent will be worth it is totally up in the air. You figure a set of revolvers or cats cost 600 bucks, roughly the price of a catback exhaust. The catback exhaust makes roughly 10whp on a 1.8t, so if a cam can pull that off, then it would be worth it.
A little while back, Revolver dynoed a set of cams on a stock turbo, and gained 12 whp. I'm contemplating the idea, especially since it's so close to timing belt time.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (20aeman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20aeman* »_I've never truly understood the "k series turbo doesn't flow enough for cams" argument. You figure a normally aspirated car is limited in flow to 14.7 psi atmospheric. So yeah, the earths atmosphere it the limitation, and can only push so much air into the vacuum that is the cumbustion chamber. Yet gains from cams are still made. So, a KO3s that supplies even more pressure on top of atmospheric is limited in flow? 
I will say this much. I will bet money that cams will make power on a k03-k04 whatever. As to how much power, and whether the money spent will be worth it is totally up in the air. You figure a set of revolvers or cats cost 600 bucks, roughly the price of a catback exhaust. The catback exhaust makes roughly 10whp on a 1.8t, so if a cam can pull that off, then it would be worth it.
A little while back, Revolver dynoed a set of cams on a stock turbo, and gained 12 whp. I'm contemplating the idea, especially since it's so close to timing belt time. 


I have a set of Cat cams coming for my setup. 53s. They should give me middle/upper RPM increases w/a little lost down low. I'm not too concerned w/down low though as the turbo will be fine w/ it. Honestly, with everything I have planned with my exhaust, intake, head, etc etc etc I'm guessing cams are going to give me ~15-20hp. The only trick with the 53s is that since they overlap, with a small turbo, you need to have as little backpressure as humanly possible so that the overlap doesn't hurt performance. I'm already running a 3" TBE. I may get a "cat free" dp, or may just leave mine go as GHLs are pretty small as it is (I just hope I don't have any issues w/the flex pipe that I've heard about/read about before?). But additionally I'm planning on porting and polishing my turbine housing - which I think will be very important in helping reduce backpressure for the overlap. After that I'm going to fab my own tubular exhaust manifold that is built to spec to port match a ported and polished AEB exhaust port as well as having a better collector where all of the runners (though not equal length) will enter and combine above the hot side. That's my plan. That should be adequate flow to pick up horsepower and then toss a cam with it and I think that it'll really help out. The cat is out of the bag...


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

yes and the cat says gain of 10whp







http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif


----------



## 20aeman (Jun 8, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_

I have a set of Cat cams coming for my setup. 53s. They should give me middle/upper RPM increases w/a little lost down low. I'm not too concerned w/down low though as the turbo will be fine w/ it. Honestly, with everything I have planned with my exhaust, intake, head, etc etc etc I'm guessing cams are going to give me ~15-20hp. The only trick with the 53s is that since they overlap, with a small turbo, you need to have as little backpressure as humanly possible so that the overlap doesn't hurt performance. I'm already running a 3" TBE. I may get a "cat free" dp, or may just leave mine go as GHLs are pretty small as it is (I just hope I don't have any issues w/the flex pipe that I've heard about/read about before?). But additionally I'm planning on porting and polishing my turbine housing - which I think will be very important in helping reduce backpressure for the overlap. After that I'm going to fab my own tubular exhaust manifold that is built to spec to port match a ported and polished AEB exhaust port as well as having a better collector where all of the runners (though not equal length) will enter and combine above the hot side. That's my plan. That should be adequate flow to pick up horsepower and then toss a cam with it and I think that it'll really help out. The cat is out of the bag...

You might wanna look into clipping the turbine wheel as well. I have yet to decide between the revolver 002s or 3651s. I'll probably throw in some cam gears and retard the cam timing so I can shift the powerband up about 500 rpm. I'll probably end up with the Cats since I can just bother Bob Q with questions once I get it from him. Plus he's a contributor to this forum and I always support the peeps who contribute to the 1.8t scene.
Also, iirc, the 3653s won't work on vvt cars, and if by chance they do, motronic won't be too happy. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 20aeman at 3:28 AM 12-25-2007_


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (20aeman)*

I too have started to try to get as much power from the k04-20 as possible. I have ordered my RODS, will be upgrading my intake manifold and throttle body and eliminating my GHL highflow cat. I am also thinking about adding a mister for my Tyrol sport USMIC. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:10 AM 12-25-2007_


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (20aeman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20aeman* »_
You might wanna look into clipping the turbine wheel as well. I have yet to decide between the revolver 002s or 3651s. I'll probably throw in some cam gears and retard the cam timing so I can shift the powerband up about 500 rpm. I'll probably end up with the Cats since I can just bother Bob Q with questions once I get it from him. Plus he's a contributor to this forum and I always support the peeps who contribute to the 1.8t scene.
Also, iirc, the 3653s won't work on vvt cars, and if by chance they do, motronic won't be too happy. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by 20aeman at 3:28 AM 12-25-2007_

53s do not work w/vvt, that's correct. I'm going non vvt/non sai. I've spoken w/Bob Q and he suggested the 51s over the 53s, but I'm just being kind of stubborn on this one I guess... could also be because I got a better deal on 53s though. If someone runs 51s w/more success then I'll consider switching worst case.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

How are you disabling VVT? Do you know what else that will do to your ME7?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_How are you disabling VVT? Do you know what else that will do to your ME7?

I'm going to just unplug it from the tensioner so that it can't activate it w/the oil pressure or whatever. Then for the SAI I'm just going to unplug that and do the resistor thing and what not. You know what I mean...
Revo is doing it for me. No worries.


_Modified by 04VDubGLI at 11:09 AM 12-25-2007_


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
I'm going to just unplug it from the tensioner so that it can't activate it w/the oil pressure or whatever. Then for the SAI I'm just going to unplug that and do the resistor thing and what not. You know what I mean...
Revo is doing it for me. No worries.

_Modified by 04VDubGLI at 11:09 AM 12-25-2007_

GL...hope they know what they are doing. I have resistors if you need them http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
GL...hope they know what they are doing. I have resistors if you need them http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

From what they told me they're going to write me an AWD equivalent file for my RN ECU. So it just won't check the SAI for readiness at all (so won't need resistors) and then the vvt won't even be a part of the file, so I can literally unplug it so that it doesn't activate - although I'm not planning on sticking w/an AWP head, so AEB ftw. The hardest part at this point is just getting Revo to follow through with the file writing.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Maybe we ought to suggest to Revo that they make an upgrade available for disabling vvt and sai. I would toss another $100 at them for it... I'm pretty sure they could just make a variant of each of their files for this.


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_Maybe we ought to suggest to Revo that they make an upgrade available for disabling vvt and sai. I would toss another $100 at them for it... I'm pretty sure they could just make a variant of each of their files for this.









I spoke to a guy at Revo who said he'd have them write me a file following the New Year. We'll see if they come through or not...
Seriously, I need info on taking the turbine housing off. Anyone?


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
Seriously, I need info on taking the turbine housing off. Anyone?

Honestly, how difficult can it be, you already got spare inserts


----------



## allmotor6 (Jan 21, 2007)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

this is a long thread.
that's what she said.


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
Honestly, how difficult can it be, you already got spare inserts










Well, I think that the hot side bolts onto the CHRA, but I'm not 100%. But I don't understand how it would seal yet. I also am trying to figure out if I need to take the comp cover off as well... and then if I need to detach the CHRA or... I mean, I guess I can't figure out whether or not I'm dropping it and just take the up pipe and then turbine side off or if I'm dropping it and disassembling the works. Then additionally I'm trying to determine what seals it so that I am able to reseal it.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I heard that the bolts that you are going to be removing are reverse threaded, so turn clockwise to loosen. Someone else should know if this is true. I believe that the seal is created by the surfaces being precisely flat, or there may be a metal gasket but either way you should be able to reseal it without too much difficulty.
If you're going to all this trouble, why not just have a pro do the work and get hybrid turbines installed? It should be possible to make a hybrid that can raise the top-end boost and loose a little at the bottom to better match your cams. It would probably help to have the turbo's range better aligned with the cam's so that you aren't making tons of boost when the head isn't ready to accept it.
I think with the Forge WGA, the turbo can already exceed the flow rate that the head with stock cams is able to accept (at low RPM's). This would likely be even more noticeable with these cams you have coming....


----------



## 20aeman (Jun 8, 2006)

They make a T3 super 60/ ko4 020 hybrid, you should look into that. mjmturbos was the site i believe.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (20aeman)*


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

So does anyone have a k04 that they're willing to take apart by chance? I'm really dying here w/the suspense for info on porting and polishing the turbine housing. I THINK that the turbo gets dropped and then the exhaust side can be removed without disassembling the whole deal. Of course this would require one to be uber careful reassembling as to not screw the shaft - so maybe the best bet is to pull the whole thing out and take both the comp and turbine housings off? But then the issue is sealing them back up. That's really what I need to know at this junction. I can't afford the time of ripping it apart and not being able to get it back together. INFO PLEASE! 
Also, in regards to the k04-06 w/the t3, the issue I've always heard that mixing hald and hald like that never turns out well in the long run. Who knows though... Someone try it?


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

its not rocket science, bolts are not reverse thread either, remove the bolts and pull apart..........
like i said before, its a waste of time
and MJM has the WORST reputation on vwvortex for building turbos that blow up and do not warranty them.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_
and MJM has the WORST reputation on vwvortex for building turbos that blow up and do not warranty them.

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Any chance you'd happen to know anything about sealing the turbine or comp sides back to the CHRA on a k04-020 though?







Seriously though, I've been considering sending Uni my specs and seeing what kind of file they would do for me and what whp/wtq they'd expect from it. I have a dealer quite close to me - but I'm currently stuck w/Revo and not willing to bend over and take one.


_Modified by Boostin20v at 1:55 PM 2-6-2008_


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Can't help you on the seal problem. As for tuning, I'm sure we could do something for you. Send your specs to my email and I'll pass it along. [email protected]


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Can't help you on the seal problem. As for tuning, I'm sure we could do something for you. Send your specs to my email and I'll pass it along. [email protected] 

Dropped my specs to your e-mail address.
Back on topic, I keep trying to find out info regarding these seals and I can't find anything. I need to get my turbo out again and fix an oil/coolant leak that I have (a little of both) from the feed lines. So I'd like to roll everything into one turbo removal... so yeah. Does anyone know specifically whether or not it would be best to pull the entire thing and disassemble it on a bench or if I'd be better off ONLY removing the turbine housing?


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

pull as a whole


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## stevec1.8t (Jun 27, 2007)

any experienced K04-2 users know how much powerr i wouldmake with my existing mods and a K04-2 with the GIACX file? tyrol sport is the tuner shop i go to near by and they said they have a K04 file ..who knows?


----------



## jettasmooth (Aug 7, 2002)

*Re: (lax1492)*

I thought people would be interested to know....I got my car back from Reflexbug last week with the K04 upgrade in my MK3 jetta. So far, I notice that at 10 psi with the K04, it feels like 18 psi with the K03s..... New updates will be posted when I run some logs and check out my a/f.








I love the way the intercooler piping was fit. Reusing the audi TT charge pipe was definitely a good call. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
The biggest snag I found was that the dp had to be fabricated from scratch, since the up-pipe did not allow the dp to clear the firewall with enough room. Obviously this could just be a MK3 related problem.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (stevec1.8t)*

You are dealing with tyrolsport, then why not ask them what you can expect power wise? Let us know what they say.


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (stevec1.8t)*

I'd expect 225-230whp on your setup. I believe thats the power my car is putting down if I had to guess. I have some issues to tidy up yet and haven't done any tweaking w/ lemmiwinks. I wanted to dyno my car last month but my clutch is toast.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*

Tyrol Sport is a GIAC dealer so yes they will have the GIAC k04-20 file. If they are the ones working on your car then it will run the way it should. They will prolly dyno it after they finish working on it then tune accordingly. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Anyone have any guesses as to why I wouldn't make as much boost on race gas? I was running Timing 9 and HB 8 on old SPS3 and it was spooling later and not going as high? Anyone have any ideas on that? On 93oct my car will hold 23psi 4000-5400 and then taper off to 20psi @ redline. Today I was getting up to close to 20psi, but only barely at the top of the gear. It was odd... Should I have just gone 9/9? I was a little worried cause I had about 98oct in the tank when I figured it out - though it was 13* outside.


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Were you just going to port the exhaust side? A buddy of mine at work said you will never get the impellor out of the intake side because the turbo is heated and fitted together. He said you could do the exhaust side and he also said something about some bolts being reversed threaded. Sorry thats probably not to helpful, I lost alot in translation


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_Were you just going to port the exhaust side? A buddy of mine at work said you will never get the impellor out of the intake side because the turbo is heated and fitted together. He said you could do the exhaust side and he also said something about some bolts being reversed threaded. Sorry thats probably not to helpful, I lost alot in translation









Yeah, just the exhaust side. The reason being that there is a ton of backpressure caused by the hot side at high boost levels. The plan would be to removing the turbine housing and port it and leave the rest of the turbo together if at all possible. Yeah, seems like the concensus thus far is that the bolts are reverse threaded...


----------



## stevec1.8t (Jun 27, 2007)

looking to buy a K04-02...i went into the classys but itll take 4 ever to buy one there or find one ...any one SELLING or knows SOME ONE whos selling a K04-2


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## sotiris (Sep 24, 2007)

how many maf g/s you log with k04-23 and s3 maf sise....????
mine 183g/s 6880 rmp


_Modified by sotiris at 4:44 AM 1-10-2008_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (sotiris)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sotiris* »_how many maf g/s you log with k04-23 and s3 maf sise....????
mine 183g/s 6880 rmp

_Modified by sotiris at 4:44 AM 1-10-2008_

With a stock 1.8t maf sensor in a vr6 housing I've seen 207.8 g/s maximum. Most gears will be mid to upper 190s with the higher gears getting into the 200-210 g/s range. From what I've calculated, in a 1.8t housing that should be somewhere around 230-240g/s I think?


----------



## Eric Luipers (Nov 6, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

My car was running rich as hell with the TT sensor, 380cc's and a 3bar fpr.. I cleaned the spark plugs, the o2 sensors, and swapped my 310's back in, put on a 4 bar fpr, and put my stock 1.8t sensor into the 3 inch maf. I logged a/f and everything seems okay. Has anyone had to do this before? Am i looking for trouble running it like this? 
I have giac programming


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
Yeah, just the exhaust side. The reason being that there is a ton of backpressure caused by the hot side at high boost levels. The plan would be to removing the turbine housing and port it and leave the rest of the turbo together if at all possible. Yeah, seems like the concensus thus far is that the bolts are reverse threaded... 

He said as the best he call recall is its just a casting seal. No gasket or sealent but he did warn its been awhile since he had one apart.


----------



## sotiris (Sep 24, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
With a stock 1.8t maf sensor in a vr6 housing I've seen 207.8 g/s maximum. Most gears will be mid to upper 190s with the higher gears getting into the 200-210 g/s range. From what I've calculated, in a 1.8t housing that should be somewhere around 230-240g/s I think?


with s3 225 maf sensor and case...........

with 4 gear.....



_Modified by sotiris at 1:53 PM 1-13-2008_


----------



## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Anyone have any guesses as to why I wouldn't make as much boost on race gas? I was running Timing 9 and HB 8 on old SPS3 and it was spooling later and not going as high? Anyone have any ideas on that? On 93oct my car will hold 23psi 4000-5400 and then taper off to 20psi @ redline. Today I was getting up to close to 20psi, but only barely at the top of the gear. It was odd... Should I have just gone 9/9? I was a little worried cause I had about 98oct in the tank when I figured it out - though it was 13* outside.

What brand of race gas and what formulation?
Check with the race fuel mfg to see what they recommend. They usually have Tech sites with FAQ's to recommend timing changes for NS and Turbo cars. Some race fuels work better in Turbo cars than others and vica-versa. 
Higher octane fuels have a slower burn rate than a lower octane fuel. On a NA motor you would have to add timing to compensate for the slower burn rate of race fuels. If you don't, then peak cylinder pressure occurs too late and you lose HP. On a Turbo car this may result in a reduction in boost and slower spooling.
Or you may have boost leak that is co-incedental....


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (sotiris)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sotiris* »_

with s3 225 maf sensor and case...........

with 4 gear.....
_Modified by sotiris at 1:53 PM 1-13-2008_


I'm not sure what MAF sensor you're running though. But in 4th gear w/my 1.8t sensor in a VR6 housing = TT225 housing (I think is the same as an S3?) I'm getting ~207 g/s max. I think it was right around 6400rpms IIRC. I tried to find it, but I have so many logs and it's too late to sift through all of them. Before the Forge WGA (slightly lower boost), I was seeing around 196 g/s from the couple of logs I did look at.


----------



## sotiris (Sep 24, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

200g/s+ with k04-2.....???????
you will "fire" the dyno....

mine with 314 hp to maha LPS3000 dyno, have only 183g/s 6700rmp
my boost is 1.6bar over and 1.4bar until 6600 and 1.35bar to 7000rmp
1.6bar = 23.20608 psi
1.4bar = 20.30532 psi
1.35bar = 19.58013 psi
if i receive snow performance w/m (i had ordered 1 month+ ago http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif ) maybe i will see more power and maf g/s


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (sotiris)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sotiris* »_200g/s+ with k04-2.....???????
you will "fire" the dyno....

mine with 314 hp to maha LPS3000 dyno, have only 183g/s 6700rmp
my boost is 1.6bar over and 1.4bar until 6600 and 1.35bar to 7000rmp
1.6bar = 23.20608 psi
1.4bar = 20.30532 psi
1.35bar = 19.58013 psi
if i receive snow performance w/m (i had ordered 1 month+ ago http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif ) maybe i will see more power and maf g/s











We have what I would imagine is very similar boost








I'll re log it sometime this week to confirm, but I'm pretty sure my last log was 207 g/s - my girlfriend did the logs, so I think they're on her laptop? Again, this is all determined by the sensor itself though. I also have an ABD intake manifold as well - not that it'll make a massive difference, but a few g/s or so I'm sure.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


----------



## sotiris (Sep 24, 2007)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

this is mine...lololol






















*this with 6 gear
314bhp engine power 5475rmp
410.7nm 4795rmp*
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (sotiris)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sotiris* »_this is mine...lololol






















*this with 6 gear
314bhp engine power 5475rmp
410.7nm 4795rmp*
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Are the rods in yet? Good improvement from your last dyno. Can't wait to see another dyno once the water/meth is in and rods with boost and timing cranked. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (sotiris)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sotiris* »_this is mine...lololol






















*this with 6 gear
314bhp engine power 5475rmp
410.7nm 4795rmp*
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


What does that 410.7nm equate to in tq? 
I'm going to try and make a guess as to what everything equates to in whp/wtq.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Why are you using 6th gear to dyno? Or did I read this incorrectly?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_

What does that 410.7nm equate to in tq? 
I'm going to try and make a guess as to what everything equates to in whp/wtq.

1nm=0.73756 ft/lbs
410.7nm=302.9 ft/lbs of torque
and his whp is 245.8whp. To calculate the whp on these dynos you take the second red number and you minus from the green number which is actually the drive train loss and you get the whp.
He went from 261.8bhp/375.3nm or 216.6whp/276.8 ft/lb trq in 1st dyno to 314bhp/410.7nm or 245.8whp/302.9ft/lb trq in 2nd dyno




_Modified by 01gtiaww at 2:20 PM 1-15-2008_


----------



## rogerius (Jun 14, 2004)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Trevor,you've got e-mail!


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_Why are you using 6th gear to dyno? Or did I read this incorrectly?

I believe he was trying to say his car is 6 gears.


----------



## sotiris (Sep 24, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

with 6th gear in my gearbox.....
because with 5th gear the car can't stabiliied
so we had bad rolls
my car is 4x4 ...... more whp casualtys

months before 261 bhp (with 5th gear)
today 314bhp (with 6th gear)
the giac file was PUMP 250bc i have and the RACE for more power...
but this kind of dyno is to hard for full "timing"
without fine tuning.....
my boost is 1.6bar over and 1.4bar until 6600 and 1.35bar to 7000rmp
1.6bar = 23.20608 psi
1.4bar = 20.30532 psi
1.35bar = 19.58013 psi
the wheel power to 6th gear is 245 hp and for 5th gear the "dyno man"
said to guesstimate ~30 wheell hp more.... for 4x4 is special number for maha dyno......
the dyno run duration was 50+ sec..















with full reactive load........full throttle from 2300 rmp until 7150rmp









sorry for my poor english









_Modified by sotiris at 12:30 PM 1-15-2008_


_Modified by sotiris at 12:36 PM 1-15-2008_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (rogerius)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rogerius* »_Trevor,you've got e-mail!

Sorry, where did you send it? I don't think I got anything?

What differences occurred (modifications or whatever) between the two dynos besides the changing of gear (which does effect dyno numbers btw). I have a dyno in 3rd gear making ~230whp/268wtq and then 4th gear (closer to 1:1) made 239/278. I imagine if I went to 5th I'd see another increase.


----------



## sotiris (Sep 24, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

look..... the gear effect the wheell power whp,
the bhp (314) is the same with the two gear
he said to me...
maha dyno culibrate before runs the rmp and the klm to find the corrend power....

my changes
-i open the hole of int. manifold the size of my big throtle body
-tubular manifold 34mm
-70mm full exhust from 63mm i had before
-forge wga cranked
-new giac file open bc
-more timing
-more boost to hi rmp....
-ie rods 








_Modified by sotiris at 1:02 PM 1-15-2008_


_Modified by sotiris at 1:19 PM 1-15-2008_


----------



## spoolingti02 (Jun 3, 2005)

need some help looking to buy a k04 turbo kit. just not too sure what to go with. i got revo stage 2 sw, 4fbr, front mount all that silly s***.
just need help with what k04 i want for the most power and what injectors.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (spoolingti02)*


_Quote, originally posted by *spoolingti02* »_need some help looking to buy a k04 turbo kit. just not too sure what to go with. i got revo stage 2 sw, 4fbr, front mount all that silly s***.
just need help with what k04 i want for the most power and what injectors.

Well this is a k04-20 thread so we only discuss one k04. If you are in monroe you can come to my house in chester and i'll take you for a ride in my car. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (sotiris)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sotiris* »_look..... the gear effect the wheell power whp,
the bhp (314) is the same with the two gear
he said to me...
maha dyno culibrate before runs the rmp and the klm to find the corrend power....

my changes
-i open the hole of int. manifold the size of my big throtle body
-tubular manifold 34mm
-70mm full exhust from 63mm i had before
-forge wga cranked
-new giac file open bc
-more timing
-more boost to hi rmp....
-ie rods 








_Modified by sotiris at 1:02 PM 1-15-2008_

_Modified by sotiris at 1:19 PM 1-15-2008_

I haven't heard of dyno's giving the same results in different gears, but I guess it depends on the dyno?
Nice numbers! The bigger exhaust mani and TB and exhaust etc is what got you those numbers...Enjoy http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

SOTIRIS, what tubular exhaust manifold are you using? RTS or custom?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_SOTIRIS, what tubular exhaust manifold are you using? RTS or custom?

DNP makes one for $500. That's all I know for certain.


----------



## sotiris (Sep 24, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

















custom.........


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (sotiris)*

Nice! You should make me one!







How much?















By the way the DNP manifold went up in price from $499 to $599. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:44 AM 1-16-2008_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (sotiris)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sotiris* »_
















custom.........









Very nice. Rogerius is running a very similar style from what I recall. Any collaberation?







That thing really is pretty good looking. It's nice that you can center the turbo on the manifold and do equal length runners. Unfortunately most of us on the thread cannot due to the exhaust routing on our cars (the Pro Imports uppipe is made for where it is sitting on a TT225 from the factory). However, I'm very interested in making a tubular one for my car. 37/38mm ID will be where I'll be looking to be though







.


----------



## TeoIntegrale (Mar 18, 2007)

Some questions:
i bought, for my AGU engine:
-audi TT225 k04 with exhaust manifold,oil and wather lines
-Audi tt225 TIP
-Audi tt225 intercoolers
-NGK pfr7q
and i have, yet, the intake and the turboback.
The ecu programming will be custom, made with the car on the dyno. i think with 15PSI of boost...
Will i have problems with my OEM clutch?
Will i need the vr6-tt maf housing or would be good the standard one?
Standard injectors @ 4 bar have enought fuel flow for my setup?
thanks


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (TeoIntegrale)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TeoIntegrale* »_Some questions:
i bought, for my AGU engine:
-audi TT225 k04 with exhaust manifold,oil and wather lines
-Audi tt225 TIP
-Audi tt225 intercoolers
-NGK pfr7q
and i have, yet, the intake and the turboback.
The ecu programming will be custom, made with the car on the dyno. i think with 15PSI of boost...
Will i have problems with my OEM clutch?
Will i need the vr6-tt maf housing or would be good the standard one?
Standard injectors @ 4 bar have enought fuel flow for my setup?
thanks

You will need the MAF sensor and housing that the Custom program will be designed for. OEM clutch is fine. An upgrade would not hurt. You need 380cc injectors. 18lbs of boost would be better. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:13 AM 1-16-2008_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (TeoIntegrale)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TeoIntegrale* »_Some questions:
i bought, for my AGU engine:
-audi TT225 k04 with exhaust manifold,oil and wather lines
-Audi tt225 TIP
-Audi tt225 intercoolers
-NGK pfr7q
and i have, yet, the intake and the turboback.
The ecu programming will be custom, made with the car on the dyno. i think with 15PSI of boost...
Will i have problems with my OEM clutch?
Will i need the vr6-tt maf housing or would be good the standard one?
Standard injectors @ 4 bar have enought fuel flow for my setup?
thanks


If you're planning on running 15psi you'll probably be making 215-220whp would be my first guess. If that's the case, your fueling will be a little bit different, so you may be able to use stock injectors at 4bar. I'm not sure what your OEM clutch is, but chances are if it's a 6spd it'll be fine and if it's a 5spd it'll be fine for about the same amount of time as stock? You'll need to run a 3" MAF housing so that it matches the turbo inlet pipe diameter. Hope that helps some.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Sotiris, Your exhaust manifold looks alot like the RTS manifold also made in GREECE. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

actually it looks nothing like it....very different.
still debatable if it makes any type of difference. those equal lengths only help with top end, where the k04 lacks and cant be pushed anymore really.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_actually it looks nothing like it....very different.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_Sotiris, Your exhaust manifold looks alot like the RTS manifold also made in GREECE. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


















That looks like it'd work for the stock 225 setup (looks like it's to the driver's side enough - er... American driver's side). How much is that one? And where do you get them? I've tried looking before with no luck.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

From what i have heard you can either get it through GIAC or contact [email protected] through here. Maybe we can get somone to fab one up and get a group buy going. I would be interested. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Another option would be to get a stock one ported and polished through
http://www.supremepowerparts.c...ifold http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Count me in! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_From what i have heard you can either get it through GIAC or contact [email protected] through here. Maybe we can get somone to fab one up and get a group buy going. I would be interested. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## sotiris (Sep 24, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

look.....
the same hand make this manifold..... this is the old model with 27mm
i think.....
mine is the new with 34mm
now he make with 36mm
hear the story....
the "hand" open his oun store
and the name is "turbo welding" here in greece athens...
is very popular.....he make all the bt manifolds and intercooler
and exchust
before, the "hand" worked for dimitris RTS. ho now leave the business
and RTS closed
now giac dealers companie name is "robbie" 
this is our gossip....






















































_Modified by sotiris at 12:46 PM 1-16-2008_


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (sotiris)*

Ha! See and here everyone saying they don't look alike, and they were made by the same person.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_Ha! See and here everyone saying they don't look alike, and they were made by the same person. 

They still aren't alike, just because the same person made it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## sotiris (Sep 24, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

yes the same 3 years ago......... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by sotiris at 1:06 PM 1-16-2008_


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (sotiris)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sotiris* »_yes the same 3 years ago......... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

He needs to start putting these into production or at least making a few for us US guys that are interested. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## sotiris (Sep 24, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

i must tell you that to put on this manifold...
you need...
-oil /water lines for turbo (custom)
-intake (custom metallic)..... before i had the samco from tt and now a metallic
-new down pipe....
-new custom intercooler pipe..
i think he work to the cars he self 
he do not send out of his store....








_Modified by sotiris at 1:08 PM 1-16-2008_


_Modified by sotiris at 1:10 PM 1-16-2008_


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (sotiris)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sotiris* »_i must tell you that to put on this manifold...
you need...
-oil /water lines for turbo (custom)
-intake (custom metallic)..... before i had the samco from tt and now a metallic
-new down pipe....
i think he work to the cars he self 
he do not send out of his store....








_Modified by sotiris at 1:08 PM 1-16-2008_















It's ok one of the guys here is trying to put one together for those that are interested. Hopefully it will leave the turbo in its stock location like the DNP one.


----------



## TeoIntegrale (Mar 18, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

thank you for the answer!!
yes, i'm planning to hit 220whp...i haven't LSD so i don't need too much power....in the future, clutch and lsd!
about the maf housing: i can use the standard housing, making a flange to fit the TT TIP...or use the 3'' housing.
in any case, the program will be custom, so no problems with fueling o timings...
my problem could be the flow: does the standard housing flows enought? it seems small...like a trottle body....i hope it doesn't hit sonic speed of the flow! or the limit of the maf reading.....


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

do a search on the dnp one. theres a ton on tt forums of them cracking and breaking.
to be honest and bt back me up here, that ported stock one is your best bet if anything at all. it wont ever break really, it should flow more. i dont see how you would need more flow with a ko420 but you guys dont seem to listen, but i would go for that one if i was you all


----------



## stevec1.8t (Jun 27, 2007)

after lots of research and my budget and the good this turbo really can make this is the turbo upgrade for me..definetly is..i believe if ican make 250whp off this K04 it is PLENTY enough for me..Any one know where i can buy a K04-02X? with good mileage? i listed in classafieds but no response..


----------



## lax1492 (Jan 19, 2004)

*Re: (stevec1.8t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stevec1.8t* »_after lots of research and my budget and the good this turbo really can make this is the turbo upgrade for me..definetly is..i believe if ican make 250whp off this K04 it is PLENTY enough for me..Any one know where i can buy a K04-02X? with good mileage? i listed in classafieds but no response..



_Quote, originally posted by *stevec1.8t* »_Well guys Its gunna be the APR stage 3 


_Quote, originally posted by *stevec1.8t* »_the 3500$ budget is as of rigth NOW..but fromw hat everyone says APR is the right way to go 

........ try pro imports and see if they have a kit but if you have so much $$ to spend why do you want this set up and why used?


----------



## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

They get snatched up pretty quickly in the classifieds. I lucked out and knew someone that has one. Picking it up in May when I drive up to Pennsylvania to visit family. Can't wait.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (BlitzKriegGetta)*

http://www.supremepowerparts.c...ifold
They port and polish audi tt 225 exhaust manifolds. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_do a search on the dnp one. theres a ton on tt forums of them cracking and breaking.
to be honest and bt back me up here, that ported stock one is your best bet if anything at all. it wont ever break really, it should flow more. i dont see how you would need more flow with a ko420 but you guys dont seem to listen, but i would go for that one if i was you all

The biggest reason I agree is I prefer to use cast pieces. They are less prone to cracking and most of you utilizing this turbo are more of the OEM type of application/reliability. As soon as you start making these custom pieces and maximizing the output of this turbo, the greater chance you have of something breaking.
I mean I made 400whp+ on a cast manifold...APR's manifold is cast and it performs great even with bigger turbos strapped to it. I think you hidden power out of these turbo's is going to be water meth/bigger intake manifold and tb/aeb head etc etc...
I am not downgrading you guys pushing the envelope, but it's not for everyone. I've set up a few cars and most of the people get ahead of themselves. Get exactly what you want and need, don't go overboard. I've had some people regret getting certain parts in their endless persuit of HP which they were satisfied with originally and should have just stopped there


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_http://www.supremepowerparts.c...ifold
They port and polish audi tt 225 exhaust manifolds. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

It's an idea, but it's also $375. Here's the thing... as I see it at least. There are a few issues with the manifold (a few good things too though). Anyhow, the good things - the way the runners enter the collector is a nice design for stock (the reason for the different turbo bolts), the length of the runners is decent for OEM, the runners are unequal lengths, but if you look at them there are 3 that are really close (even though cyl 2+3 sort of mesh into one), the manifold should be great for providing "backpressure" and therefore low end tq, and it is cast and somewhat gussetted (sp?) as well. The issues with the manifold - first off, it isnt' even port matched to the head (this can be pretty easily fixed w/a dremel), the runners go from a "circular" design to more of an oval and continue to narrow from the flange to the collector, cyl1 runner is 2x longer than the rest, the style of the collector is not completely optimal for fastest spool (though equal lengths of larger diameter w/a better collector are not either), and of course the stock manifold is not designed well for flowing high volumes of air at high RPMs. FWIW, look up the Kinetic and similar cast logs for the k03/s/04-001 and see what gains they make on a dyno. Most of them seem to bring a pretty solid 4-5whp and even a few wtq. Doesn't seem like much, but consider that we're pushing these k04-02x's to even more flow than any of those turbos and that they have some mad restriction in the stock manifold. To each his own though. Also, I'm sure some DNPs have cracked - as tubulars are prone to cracking. I'd suggest ANYONE who runs a tubular do the following - have a turbo bracket that can support the weight of the turbo and weight of the exhaust w/no manifold and gusset every possible way that will not impede the mounting of the manifold or turbo. Additionally, you can make them from a thicker walled metal which would lessen the chances of cracking as well.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

It is $375 if they have to provide with their own exhaust manifold. If you send yours in it is $175.00. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif You could probably do it yourself with a dremel at least to match it. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

I totally agree that a cast manifold is the best option and that the OEM tt 225 exhaust manifold is pretty well made except for those tiny runner holes, Which can be fixed with a port and polish for better flow. 

If i could find a good port and polish DIY i would do it myself. If i could find a cheap used exhaust manifold I will experiment with it. I just can't afford the down time of taking mine off and sending it wherever to have it port and polished. I do think that port and polishing the OEM one is the best option. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 10:54 AM 1-18-2008_


----------



## stevec1.8t (Jun 27, 2007)

*Re: (lax1492)*

i did have 3500$ ..long story now i have 2677$ lmao to hard ot explain..and damn lax way to "air" me out ..i love the apr stage 3 kit..i drove one and fell for it but ..look..im not dropping 5k for it..and certainly not gunna pay sum one almsot 1500$ to install tha thing..this si my everyday driver..and i just think i might have LESS issues with mycars reliability and breaking (rods) ect..if i just do a K04...and why not buy a used one with maybe 20k on it..? its better then paying full price


----------



## lax1492 (Jan 19, 2004)

*Re: (stevec1.8t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stevec1.8t* »_.and damn lax way to "air" me out ..

i made you think about your comments... You seem young and figure throw some money at and it will work...if you followed all these pages on the k04-20 you would know this really isn't a plug and play system. We basically all have had problems with either software or hardware one time or another. There is a lot to consider when going with a new turbo. It isn't a coil-over kit you slap on and your done. You may have xyz of money to spend but prepared to spend more when things go wrong.... cus yes things do go wrong. Your best bet it to review and follow as many threads as possible and also take an opinion of a local tuner shop as im sure they will be helping you along the way.
This can be an expensive hobby and since this is your daily car, can you afford it to be down for a month or have to drop another 3 grand in case you fry the motor or need a new clutch ?
As to why I picked it
I drove in a car that had this turbo set up before I bought it. Plus the shop that makes the kit is next to my house....and I got a good deal on it. and i followed many t3s60 GTxyz threads to figure out what I wanted.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## stevec1.8t (Jun 27, 2007)

*Re: (lax1492)*

if everything nis installed correctly whcih it should be (tyrol sport) and i dont beat the piss outta the car every day and use a good turbo timer..i shouldnt fry the motor..and this is my 3rd stick car..the clutch is not an issue (my uncle owns a transmission shop, 2 blocks from the college i go to) IF i needed a stage 2 clutch from ECS tuning is not SUPER expensive...anything else i should know LAX, Yes im youngER then some i guess 20 years is not 17? but not 25..i know a good share about cars, but this is my first VW. any HELPFUL infor on POTENTIAL problems would be appreciated


----------



## TeoIntegrale (Mar 18, 2007)

i'm going k04 next week...it's a good option in my opinion, if you're not searching a lot of hp....
you can use a lot of oem components, like the turbo and the manifold, having less problems than other options!
i'm adding the k04 with custom program to the intake, exhaust and fmic...with standard injectors and clutch...let see what happen next week!


----------



## sotiris (Sep 24, 2007)

*Re: (TeoIntegrale)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TeoIntegrale* »_i'm going k04 next week...it's a good option in my opinion, if you're not searching a lot of hp....
you can use a lot of oem components, like the turbo and the manifold, having less problems than other options!
i'm adding the k04 with custom program to the intake, exhaust and fmic...*with standard injectors* and clutch...let see what happen next week!


better way is to put larger from tt i think 380cc
and larger maf from the same car....
thats the way your car will be much better.....


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (stevec1.8t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stevec1.8t* »_if everything nis installed correctly whcih it should be (tyrol sport) and i dont beat the piss outta the car every day and use a good turbo timer..i shouldnt fry the motor..and this is my 3rd stick car..the clutch is not an issue (my uncle owns a transmission shop, 2 blocks from the college i go to) IF i needed a stage 2 clutch from ECS tuning is not SUPER expensive...anything else i should know LAX, Yes im youngER then some i guess 20 years is not 17? but not 25..i know a good share about cars, but this is my first VW. any HELPFUL infor on POTENTIAL problems would be appreciated

K04-20 is a decent upgrade. Hopefully you have read most of this thread and you will have learned from our experiances and avoid the minor problems that some of us have encountered.


----------



## stevec1.8t (Jun 27, 2007)

Proimports is back ordered on there K04 setup..where else can i buy a complete brand new kit?


----------



## Chemhalo (May 25, 2004)

*Re: (stevec1.8t)*

nowhere that I know of.... you'd have to just piece it together. The two critical pieces to the PI kit are the charge pipe and the exhaust downturn. Those you can still order. Itll be more expensive though. And I just noticed that prices on the TT225 exhaust mani's have gone up on PIs site and on worldimpex.com. However, 1stvwparts still has them for $400-maybe not for long.
Are you going GIAC programming as well? If so, you need the TT225 maf AND sensor... the PI kit doesnt have the TT225 sensor as far as i remember, just the MAF housing. You need the complete thing 06A906461E or 06A906461EX for GIAC.


_Modified by Chemhalo at 7:25 PM 1-20-2008_


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

Ok so I haven't really been following this thread much anymore but I need some help...
It seems the cold weather has taken its toll on my K04-023... It is smoking horribly (not black smoke, but white smoke) and I think the coolant seal has blown. There is no external leaking or visible signs of coolant on the ground. The smoke is coming from the tailpipe and from the back of the engine (turbo area).
Anyway, I need a new K04-023 or K04-022 ASAP! If anyone has one or knows where I can get one please let me know. I don't need anything other than the turbo and I need it soon! Thanks a lot.










_Modified by 20vTurboGLI at 3:38 PM 1-20-2008_


----------



## stevec1.8t (Jun 27, 2007)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

Pro imports...Ebay


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_Ok so I haven't really been following this thread much anymore but I need some help...
It seems the cold weather has taken its toll on my K04-023... It is smoking horribly (not black smoke, but white smoke) and I think the coolant seal has blown. There is no external leaking or visible signs of coolant on the ground. The smoke is coming from the tailpipe and from the back of the engine (turbo area).


Great, well I have a similiar problem today also. I have white smoke billowing out my exhaust but I think mine is the headgasket







This car has been kicking my ass lately, I can't take much more.


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*

Because everyone likes pictures...

















I'm praying its just the headgasket. This drives me nuts because I haven't full throttled my car for about a month because I've been saving every penny for a southbend clutch setup. The only thing I can think that caused this is I've had a very small leak since my car first overheated from a failed pump or I have some blockage somehwere in the system that I can't seem to find. Barring major damage I should have the gasket done this week and my coworker will be installing the clutch. After breakin I can finally get some numbers.

And one other thing. Upon inspecting my coolant lines I wonder what pro-imports was thinking. On their coolant lines there is a yellow plastic fitting that fits around the edge of the banjo bolt. Okay well what happens when you mount plastic right under a scorching hot turbo? I would think it would want to melt, which is exactly what mine did. I also commented on this during my install but no one ever replied, has anyone else who purchased PI's oil flanges noticed the hole is way smaller than stock? That concerns me to, it looks like a restrictor but I'd wouldn't think that is a good thing at all.


----------



## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

Hmmm, your problem looks a lot worse than mine...
The smoke from my car is pouring out of the exhaust and under the hood coming from the bottom of the turbo. I'm gonna pull the car in the garage tomorrow, crawl under it and see what I can find out. I'm pretty convinced my problem is the coolant seal on the turbo but I'll know more tomorrow.
Oh and about the yellow plastic thing on your coolant line, I built my own coolant lines rather than buying them from PI but I ended up using the same type setup anyway. The yellow thing on mine melted in the first week of using the turbo kit. I didn't think anything of it, but now I'm wondering if it might have caused a blockage or restriction in the coolant flow causing the seal to go bad...


----------



## Bluebomber (Jan 2, 2006)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*

That yellow plastic thing is basically just something to butt the end of the hose against. Its not possible for that to block anything http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_Because everyone likes pictures...

















I'm praying its just the headgasket. This drives me nuts because I haven't full throttled my car for about a month because I've been saving every penny for a southbend clutch setup. The only thing I can think that caused this is I've had a very small leak since my car first overheated from a failed pump or I have some blockage somehwere in the system that I can't seem to find. Barring major damage I should have the gasket done this week and my coworker will be installing the clutch. After breakin I can finally get some numbers.

And one other thing. Upon inspecting my coolant lines I wonder what pro-imports was thinking. On their coolant lines there is a yellow plastic fitting that fits around the edge of the banjo bolt. Okay well what happens when you mount plastic right under a scorching hot turbo? I would think it would want to melt, which is exactly what mine did. I also commented on this during my install but no one ever replied, has anyone else who purchased PI's oil flanges noticed the hole is way smaller than stock? That concerns me to, it looks like a restrictor but I'd wouldn't think that is a good thing at all. 


I would say that those mentioned items about the oil and coolant are not good things. I still ran part of a PI coolant feed, but everything going into the turbo is an OEM piece. I used to run a complete PI feed line but the fitting was enormous and wouldn't allow me to run my new Forge WGA so I happened to have the OEM line and cut part of it off and cut the PI line and fabbed up my own little thing. It works like a charm. My PI line was brass IIRC, though. The downside is that it like sat uber tight to the exhaust. Now using the stock feed line I have it bent in such a fashion as to have to running out near the firewall. Much, MUCH better!


----------



## stevec1.8t (Jun 27, 2007)

*Re: (Chemhalo)*

i was looking at APRs setup they sell a turbo kit with the K04 turbo..compressor inlet O-ring, four turbo to downpipe studs, one manifold to turbo gasket, 4bar fuel pressure regulator, and one turbo to downturn gasket...this isint enough right?? theres gotta be more parts needed then this? also the TT225 exhaust manifold and a new TIP..(what size? i just got a forge one)..and the TT225 MAF and sensor..anythign else id need to run this setup..i check through some pages but i get bored with lookingggggg


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (stevec1.8t)*

nobody uses this anymore:
http://www31.brinkster.com/bmxp/K04-02x/Index.html

should answer most basic questions. Haven't updated in a while. If anybody has some quick info that I should add, PM me.


_Modified by bmxp at 10:49 PM 1-21-2008_


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (stevec1.8t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stevec1.8t* »_i was looking at APRs setup they sell a turbo kit with the K04 turbo..compressor inlet O-ring, four turbo to downpipe studs, one manifold to turbo gasket, 4bar fuel pressure regulator, and one turbo to downturn gasket...this isint enough right?? theres gotta be more parts needed then this? also the TT225 exhaust manifold and a new TIP..(what size? i just got a forge one)..and the TT225 MAF and sensor..anythign else id need to run this setup..i check through some pages but i get bored with lookingggggg

The APR k04 kit is not a k04-020. It is a k04-001.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_Because everyone likes pictures...

















I'm praying its just the headgasket. This drives me nuts because I haven't full throttled my car for about a month because I've been saving every penny for a southbend clutch setup. The only thing I can think that caused this is I've had a very small leak since my car first overheated from a failed pump or I have some blockage somehwere in the system that I can't seem to find. Barring major damage I should have the gasket done this week and my coworker will be installing the clutch. After breakin I can finally get some numbers.

And one other thing. Upon inspecting my coolant lines I wonder what pro-imports was thinking. On their coolant lines there is a yellow plastic fitting that fits around the edge of the banjo bolt. Okay well what happens when you mount plastic right under a scorching hot turbo? I would think it would want to melt, which is exactly what mine did. I also commented on this during my install but no one ever replied, has anyone else who purchased PI's oil flanges noticed the hole is way smaller than stock? That concerns me to, it looks like a restrictor but I'd wouldn't think that is a good thing at all. 

If it were a headgasket blown, when you look through your spark plug holes you would be able to see your piston tops super shiny and clean wherever the gasket blew. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## lax1492 (Jan 19, 2004)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_nobody uses this anymore:
http://www31.brinkster.com/bmxp/K04-02x/Index.html

_Modified by bmxp at 10:49 PM 1-21-2008_

nice link.. gives people who are considering this turbo a great idea of whats needed/ what can be expected


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (lax1492)*

Toolfan, from the looks of your first picture you have an oil leak coming from your valve cover gasket in back of the timing belt. I would first check those 2 gaskets first. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 2kjettaguy (Dec 24, 2000)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Here you go guys:
http://www.42draftdesigns.com/...e.htm
(these have been in the works forever. No doubt it takes me that long to release new products)
Evan


----------



## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

2kjetta, i was going to send a PM but yours are disabled, are you guys going to make DPs for the 2.0T? my mom just got an 08 passat


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (2kjettaguy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2kjettaguy* »_Here you go guys:
http://www.42draftdesigns.com/...e.htm
(these have been in the works forever. No doubt it takes me that long to release new products)
Evan

good stuff it's about time. Now all you guys need to do is start selling k04-20's.


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## 2kjettaguy (Dec 24, 2000)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

theswoleguy - Is the passat different than the GTI? I've got a GTI DP here which we will be tackling late spring. 
01gtiaww - I don't think I could do any better on the factory turbo than anyone else. Have you tried World Impex?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (2kjettaguy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2kjettaguy* »_theswoleguy - Is the passat different than the GTI? I've got a GTI DP here which we will be tackling late spring. 
01gtiaww - I don't think I could do any better on the factory turbo than anyone else. Have you tried World Impex? 

I've had the kit for 2 years, but alot of guys have a hard time sourcing them out. Most don't want to buy new turbos so that is why they have a hard time. I bought mine new so I had no problems. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (2kjettaguy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2kjettaguy* »_Here you go guys:
http://www.42draftdesigns.com/...e.htm
(these have been in the works forever. No doubt it takes me that long to release new products)
Evan


This downpipe >>>> Pro Imports Uppipe + DP. Cheaper + I'm sure it'd be MUCH less hassle to deal with to get it located and everything. Nicely done!


----------



## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: (2kjettaguy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2kjettaguy* »_theswoleguy - Is the passat different than the GTI? I've got a GTI DP here which we will be tackling late spring. 
01gtiaww - I don't think I could do any better on the factory turbo than anyone else. Have you tried World Impex? 

APR claims to be the same pipe, but several others say there pipe doesnt work with autos. 
I am willing to maybe help with fitment, might be kind of combersome all the way out here in GA but i could try a GTI pipe i guess.


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (2kjettaguy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2kjettaguy* »_Here you go guys:
http://www.42draftdesigns.com/...e.htm
(these have been in the works forever. No doubt it takes me that long to release new products)
Evan

WOW thats nice. 2 thumbs up


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (loudgli)*

I might be switching over to this. The only thing I dont like is that the DP is not SS steel. The PI UPPIPE is stainles steel. For the price of the DD piece which is a whole DP, you can't go wrong. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

evan, how did ya make this? what car did ya use locally?
did you use the uppipe PI sent ya?


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## 2kjettaguy (Dec 24, 2000)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

About a year ago I built tooling which allows me to build downpipes for any turbo/manifold combination that fit within the fitment restraints of my mk4 downpipe and exhaust products. I can build a downpipe for any turbo or manifold combination using this tooling and don't need a car. 
For this downpipe I bought a TT manifold and turbo and tested it on my mk4 1.8T. Pro-Imports never sent me anything, and likewise I never worked off anything they have ever created. The design and tooling for this downpipe has been done for over 6 months, but we have just completed the final production parts. Stuff takes time...


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## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

Glad to see my dyno is posted on the "official" website. I hate it when information is out but people can't or won't put it together or let others know. If ya'll need any additional information PM me.


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (2kjettaguy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2kjettaguy* »_About a year ago I built tooling which allows me to build downpipes for any turbo/manifold combination that fit within the fitment restraints of my mk4 downpipe and exhaust products. I can build a downpipe for any turbo or manifold combination using this tooling and don't need a car. 
For this downpipe I bought a TT manifold and turbo and tested it on my mk4 1.8T. Pro-Imports never sent me anything, and likewise I never worked off anything they have ever created. The design and tooling for this downpipe has been done for over 6 months, but we have just completed the final production parts. Stuff takes time...

You wouldn't happen to still have that TT turbo would you???
I need a replacement K04-02x ASAP!!!


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (20vTurboGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_
You wouldn't happen to still have that TT turbo would you???
I need a replacement K04-02x ASAP!!!

_Quote, originally posted by *20vTurboGLI* »_
You wouldn't happen to still have that TT turbo would you???
I need a replacement K04-02x ASAP!!!


And I need a manifold? LOL


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## stevec1.8t (Jun 27, 2007)

which is better the K04-01 or the K04-02x?


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (stevec1.8t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stevec1.8t* »_which is better the K04-01 or the K04-02x?

This is a k04-20series thread, which do you think we are going to say? The k04-20 is obviously a bigger turbo capable of more power than a k04-001. If you compare them head to head turbo for turbo with no other mods attached on 93oct and 18 lbs of boost a k04-001 will produce more or less 210whp a k04-20 will produce more or less 240whp with way more torque than a k04-001. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_

And I need a manifold? LOL

A manifold is much more easier to source than a turbo. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Is anyone on here looking for software? I may consider selling my ECU ($500 swapped or $700 outright). If not, I have a connection w/a Uni dealer who would probably like to help some people out?


----------



## Gberg888GLI (Nov 1, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

So how much is the equalizer kit going for now?
Another few questions:
1) Im going to need the tt225 inlet hose so ill have to sell my Eurojet inlet right?
2) i have a eurojet smic and the upper intercooler hose... am i going to need to get ride of the hose? the kit comes with one and i was confused about it.
3) I have the metal lower intercooler hose... am i going to have to get ride of that too?


----------



## Chemhalo (May 25, 2004)

*Re: (Gberg888GLI)*

1) Yes
2) No 
3) No - "Pipe follows factory MKIV plumbing & connects from turbo to the factory pancake pipe"


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## Gberg888GLI (Nov 1, 2006)

*Re: (Chemhalo)*

how much is the equalizer kit running though?


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## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (Gberg888GLI)*

Good god. I thought my K04-02x website would answer most basic questions. You'd think people could put 1 and 1 together. Might have to make an FAQ or something because I guess the site does give pretty conclusive answer.










_Modified by bmxp at 10:39 PM 1-22-2008_


----------



## sotiris (Sep 24, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_
This is a k04-20series thread, which do you think we are going to say? The k04-20 is obviously a bigger turbo capable of more power than a k04-001. If you compare them head to head turbo for turbo with no other mods attached on 93oct and 18 lbs of boost a k04-001 will produce more or less 210whp a k04-20 will produce more or less 240whp *with way more torque than a k04-001*. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

i think this is rong..
the k04-01 produce more torque from k04-023....
i had the two of them to my car and the k04-01 had less power but more torque







with the giac file for its one
not only to my car ....!! the same and other cars


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_Good god. I thought my K04-02x website would answer most basic questions. You'd think people could put 1 and 1 together. Might have to make an FAQ or something because I guess the site does give pretty conclusive answer.








_Modified by bmxp at 10:39 PM 1-22-2008_

You can lead a horse to water...


----------



## Chemhalo (May 25, 2004)

*Re: (beachball6)*

So was the word on the PI oil/coolant lines that the yellow plastic piece could melt a bit but it wouldnt hurt anything? If there is a better/cheaper way to make the lines ourselves (what hose, what lengths, what fittings), it should definitely be in the FAQ.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (Chemhalo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Chemhalo* »_So was the word on the PI oil/coolant lines that the yellow plastic piece could melt a bit but it wouldnt hurt anything? If there is a better/cheaper way to make the lines ourselves (what hose, what lengths, what fittings), it should definitely be in the FAQ.

Probably could use push-lok line (don't recall it's proper name). It's pretty much the same as the PI lines IMO, but it won't save you a bunch of money vs. the PI line plus you'd still have to find a brass fitting or adapt an OEM one (what I have now b/c it's 1204910349x better for clearance and making the line go where I want it to be). I'd guess you could do it for probably $40 most likely? I think the PI line I picked up was like $50 shipped. Also, I think it's probably around -6 line? I know the return line that I have is -10 IIRC, so I'm gauging from that.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I just used all OEM AUDI tt 225 lines. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_I just used all OEM AUDI tt 225 lines. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Honestly, they are much better in my opinion. I had the PI coolant feed line, but then I ended up hacking it apart just so I could adapt the OEM TT line to my coolant feed. That gave me way more room as well as allowed me to bend the line to where I wanted the line to be (not on the exhaust or manifold). I just wish I could have used the TT return line. I think they're great, they just don't fit hybrid pans. I'd highly suggest OEM lines over PI lines. However, I'd probably rock the APR lines if they weren't damn near $1,000,000.


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I ended up using the PI lines because I had difficulting fitting 1 or 2 of the oem lines to the turbo and got frustrated.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_I ended up using the PI lines because I had difficulting fitting 1 or 2 of the oem lines to the turbo and got frustrated.

You had difficulty fitting OEM audi tt 225 lines on? I found them much easier to install than the PI ones. That is why you have to put them on the turbo first before you try to mount the turbo to the manifold. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## stevec1.8t (Jun 27, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

the APR kit says it makes 245whp..and its a K04-01..thats why i was curious..im sorry i dont know the secifics and ive been reading since there was around 40pages so i been here for a hwil but there was never a direct comparison between the K04s that have been able to read..which is why i ask..u said th eK04-01 makes 210whp..? but apr uses that turbo and claims 245whp?


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (stevec1.8t)*

245BHP


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (stevec1.8t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stevec1.8t* »_the APR kit says it makes 245whp..and its a K04-01..thats why i was curious..im sorry i dont know the secifics and ive been reading since there was around 40pages so i been here for a hwil but there was never a direct comparison between the K04s that have been able to read..which is why i ask..u said th eK04-01 makes 210whp..? but apr uses that turbo and claims 245whp?


For clarification...
http://www.goapr.com/VW/products/tvk04.html
Those are crank numbers, not wheel. A k04-02x is rated at something like 280 crank hp and 320 crank tq. All APR products are labelled in crank values. A basic chip says 215hp/242tq. No 1.8T is going to make 215whp/242wtq with ONLY a chip. Keep in mind we're talking about a difference of 30 at the crank here. And the k04-001 has requirements as well. To make 215whp with a k03s you'll be running every bolt on and maybe even a touch of race gas or water meth. 240whp is doable out of a k04-001. It'll be on water meth and/or race gas 95% of the time. There have been some exceptions (or supposed exceptions), but they're SUPER rare. A k04-001 with regular bolt ons is going to be making probably 220whp/270wtq. A k04-02x with basic bolt ons is going to make 235-245whp/270-290wtq (pending exhaust types + intercooler type). Anyone can debate it, but that's where it's at IMO.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (2kjettaguy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2kjettaguy* »_About a year ago I built tooling which allows me to build downpipes for any turbo/manifold combination that fit within the fitment restraints of my mk4 downpipe and exhaust products. I can build a downpipe for any turbo or manifold combination using this tooling and don't need a car. 
For this downpipe I bought a TT manifold and turbo and tested it on my mk4 1.8T. Pro-Imports never sent me anything, and likewise I never worked off anything they have ever created. The design and tooling for this downpipe has been done for over 6 months, but we have just completed the final production parts. Stuff takes time...

you musta made them right after i left then?
sounds sweet, finally someone who can make downpipes that fit correctly


----------



## 2kjettaguy (Dec 24, 2000)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

I looked up some emails to get a timeline. I started this DP project in April of 07, so it's been 10 months. Pretty much par for the course in my R&D schedule


----------



## stevec1.8t (Jun 27, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

thanks dub i apprecate it..i diddnt knwo that about the apr and being only crank HP..glad i do though..I love this site


----------



## Gberg888GLI (Nov 1, 2006)

*Re: (stevec1.8t)*

how linear is the power curve and torque curve of the ko4-02x?
I know its got somewhat of a spike down low... but is it really that bad? 
How does the power hold through the revs?


----------



## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

Massive is a great word.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Gberg888GLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Gberg888GLI* »_how linear is the power curve and torque curve of the ko4-02x?
I know its got somewhat of a spike down low... but is it really that bad? 
How does the power hold through the revs?


If you look at the many dynos posted on this thread you can see for yourself. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif WHy do you think many are afraid to turn the boost up on the k04-20 series turbos without upgrading rods? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_

If you look at the many dynos posted on this thread you can see for yourself. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif WHy do you think many are afraid to turn the boost up on the k04-20 series turbos without upgrading rods? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Rolling burnouts FTW. My car w/ESP on will chirp several times at the top of second and touching third. ESP off and my car will happily spin second (from a roll still) and part of third. However, with Revo's SW I wouldn't be too hesitant to run race gas everyday. The way the boost comes on when controlled by n75 you don't get a spike at all... unless 4000rpms holding 20+ psi for about 1000rpms (maybe more) is a spike. But at that point with how the boost builds it shouldn't be very damaging. Think in terms of APR Stg3/3+ and how much torque they make and where they make it. They rarely toss rods (insert debate about software here). But, point being a well tuned car can still make some power, even on the stock rods.


----------



## Gberg888GLI (Nov 1, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

what page are they on.... the dynos i mean


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*




























































_Modified by 01gtiaww at 9:03 AM 1-25-2008_


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (Chemhalo)*

So I have been rocking the Aeroquip push-lock hoses (basically the same as JEGS Push-loc) and the other day, the coolant line basically just fell apart at the barb on the banjo for the line between the turbo and the water reservoir. It turned into a crumbly rubber that had no strength. I'm not sure but it seems that they are not designed to sit right next to an exhaust. It may have rested against the downpipe at times, but that's not where it fell apart. It fell apart where the barb is because I guess the barb dug into the inside of the hose and then the broiling hot coolant was able to attack it more effectively.
What's the part number for the OEM piece that is mostly solid metal and has the banjo built-in?
What size are the banjo bolts? I would prefer to just have steel braided lines made with one-time-use pressed-in fittings. I would then cover these with some heat shield tape to prevent them from rubbing holes in all the rubber lines. If these cost the same or less than the OEM lines, then I'd rather put my money into these since, for example, it would make it a million times easier to work with the oil feed line. So I need to know what size the banjo bolts are (oil and water) so that the hoses I have made are the correct size. Maybe this was posted before, but I haven't seen it.
42dd are rock stars, I can't wait to get one of those downpipes, I'd been asking about them for a year or two now, it's refreshing to see a company that's actually listening to it's customers.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 20AE-2306 at 12:05 PM 1-25-2008_


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

Any more info on porting the turbo? I'm pulling my turbo and mani off this weekend. Going to take my dremel to them. I'm going to go fairly conservative on them but I'm gonna remove material whereever I see fit. I do not plan to pull apart the turbo though, only do what I can reach


----------



## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*

I am contemplating parting my car out since I am not having the easiest time selling it as is. 
if someone wants to make a solid offer for the whole setup or for the bulk of my parts, I'll pull it all off. 
setup:
Ko4-20 with about 10-11k miles on it(I bought it new)
tt225 manifold
pro imports up-pipe
tt225 oil feed, coolant feed and coolant return lines
pro imports oil return line
forge silicone turbo inlet hose for tt225
GIAC software for this setup on HS code ecu(call a giac dealer to see if they will program it to your car before making an offer)
tt225 injectors
also have:
Eurojet street intercooler with pipes and rebar
3" GHL downpipe
2.5" milltek exhaust for cutout/4-motion valence
GHL cold air intake 
3" maf housing
and many other parts.
I will not pull everything out for somebody who just needs a coolant line, so please only offers for the majority of the parts


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_Any more info on porting the turbo? I'm pulling my turbo and mani off this weekend. Going to take my dremel to them. I'm going to go fairly conservative on them but I'm gonna remove material whereever I see fit. I do not plan to pull apart the turbo though, only do what I can reach

Honestly, without pulling it apart you can't really port much. You can still polish all of the turbine housing after the wheel, but it'll be hard to keep metal from possibly going into the wheel housing. The best gains on a p&p would be from where the manifold meets the turbo and that passage to the wheel, the wastegate passage (re angling the entrance especially), and then of course the previously mentioned polishing of the post wheel portions. Just don't change anything that is immediately at the wheel. I'm sure you can, but I'd say that it'd probably be terrible to do without lots of experience.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

You should port and polish the exhaust manifold. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Gberg888GLI (Nov 1, 2006)

*Re: (quiksilverGTI)*

ko4-02x vs t3s60?
The ko4 makes 220-240whp at 3k.... the t3s60 makes 280whp at 3k am i right?


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

there abouts yea


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

I need to replace the water line from the resevoir to the turbo but I have very few options locally. Does anyone know if AutoZone or Kragen stock any hoses that would work for this? I mean they obviously sell coolent safe hoses but I question whether they would be able to withstand the heat radiating from the downpipe. I suppose if I routed it carefully and maybe added some heat shield around it? I need it to last for a month or two before I figure out a better solution, such as having steel lines custom made.
Please let me know asap because I need to solve it tonight so nothing bad happens on the way to work. Right now, I took the hose that crumbled apart and I cut it back to where it wasn't compromised and then put an extension made of a different hose...


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

*For those of you interested a k04-22 just showed up in the classifieds. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif *
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3653807


----------



## stevec1.8t (Jun 27, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

thanks GTIaww


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
Rolling burnouts FTW. My car w/ESP on will chirp several times at the top of second and touching third. ESP off and my car will happily spin second (from a roll still) and part of third. However, with Revo's SW I wouldn't be too hesitant to run race gas everyday. The way the boost comes on when controlled by n75 you don't get a spike at all... unless 4000rpms holding 20+ psi for about 1000rpms (maybe more) is a spike. But at that point with how the boost builds it shouldn't be very damaging. Think in terms of APR Stg3/3+ and how much torque they make and where they make it. They rarely toss rods (insert debate about software here). But, point being a well tuned car can still make some power, even on the stock rods.

APR STG3+ has claimed over 5 motors that I knew about a few months after they released them!!! Imagaine how many more there were since!


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (stevec1.8t)*

Nobody wants to tell me the size of the water banjos or whether I can use an autozone heater hose until I receive a custom made steel water line (which is what I need the banjo size for). Please! Somebody must know this stuff...


----------



## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_Nobody wants to tell me the size of the water banjos or whether I can use an autozone heater hose until I receive a custom made steel water line (which is what I need the banjo size for). Please! Somebody must know this stuff...









I would probably call around and c if anybody sells any braided hose. Maybe try some race shops. If not I know Napa sells a oil "return" line that seems to hold up well to all fluids. How well it will hold up to heat Im not sure. 
I got all my lines from PI when I installed my kit. Kinda pricey but atleast I knew I was getting the right stuff. PI I believe can also sell you a banjo fitting. If I remember correctly they are somewhat difficult to come by. I NEVER found any locally. 
Ok here they are. 
http://www.atpturbo.com/Mercha...e=BCS
They also sell Banjo bolts for 1/4 NPT which would work with your steel line I believe.
Hope that helps. 
Derek


----------



## quiksilverGTI (Feb 25, 2004)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*

*20AE-2306:*
I might have an extra one of those lines, I'll check tonight, are you interested or you just need the banjo bolt to make your own line?


_Modified by quiksilverGTI at 8:44 AM 1-29-2008_


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (quiksilverGTI)*

QUOTE=quiksilverGTI]*20AE-2306:*
I might have an extra one of those lines, I'll check tonight, are you interested or you just need the banjo bolt to make your own line?
[/QUOTE]
pm sent.

_Quote, originally posted by *loudgli* »_
I got all my lines from PI when I installed my kit. Kinda pricey but atleast I knew I was getting the right stuff. PI I believe can also sell you a banjo fitting. If I remember correctly they are somewhat difficult to come by. I NEVER found any locally. 


I have the banjo fitting, I was asking for the size because if I got a braided line, I would want it to have a banjo fitting crimped on.


----------



## kkkustom (Jun 5, 2007)

http://www.melett.com/turbo-pa...4.pdf might be useful to someone a bunch of posts ago, asking about how to take apart the turbo. I my self will take one apart soon for a little P&P.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (kkkustom)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kkkustom* »_http://www.melett.com/turbo-pa...4.pdf might be useful to someone a bunch of posts ago, asking about how to take apart the turbo. I my self will take one apart soon for a little P&P.


Great info. I appreciate that. Thank you very much.


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Is #42 the coolent line I need?








Here are the part numbers:
06A121492F
06A121492S
06A121492M


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (20AE-2306)*


_Quote, originally posted by *20AE-2306* »_Is #42 the coolent line I need?


You sure this is for the right car? Diagram looks like it's for a audi/passat.


----------



## WhiteG60 (Aug 20, 2001)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_
You sure this is for the right car? Diagram looks like it's for a audi/passat.

It is. Thats a longitudinal motor diagram.


----------



## stevec1.8t (Jun 27, 2007)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

it comes with all the "fixings"


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
I'd love to see pics... or his dyno for that matter. 300hp/330tq. That's obviously crank. But even crank... that'd be a good k04-02x dyno


It says its drivetrain dyno. What is that? If it's crank it sounds about right. Revo does not make k04-20 SW for AWD engine codes so he must be running a REVO STG 3 GT28r file.


----------



## Boosted96GSX (May 29, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

I have not yet installed my k04-22 yet, still waiting to get it. Has anyone put an audi tt 225 aftermarket TIP on their car. I have an 01(AWW) and am not sure which TIP made for the Audi I need. I have found 2 or 3 different designs. Thanks


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (Boosted96GSX)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Boosted96GSX* »_I have not yet installed my k04-22 yet, still waiting to get it. Has anyone put an audi tt 225 aftermarket TIP on their car. I have an 01(AWW) and am not sure which TIP made for the Audi I need. I have found 2 or 3 different designs. Thanks

Yep, that's what we're all running. They misalign things a bit, but it's not too bad. I actually have a silicone TIP on currently. I'm going to be putting a metal TIP on soon though... which should flow even better hopefully.


----------



## Boosted96GSX (May 29, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Where are you getting the metal one from? Is it like the neuspeed one?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (Boosted96GSX)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Boosted96GSX* »_Where are you getting the metal one from? Is it like the neuspeed one?

No. Nothing like the Neuspeed one fits the k04-02x. Mine is a custom made TIP. I may make more, but no one else seems too interested in them. I currently am sitting on a bunch of k04-02x inserts that cost me a bunch of money... so I'm not starting to mass produce anything else because few seem to need/want them.


----------



## Boosted96GSX (May 29, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I'm not made outta money, but i def want to do this setup right. If it doesn't cost more than a silicone TIP, and works as good or better, I don't see why there is a lack of interest.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

you can run alot of stock tt parts for that clean oem look


----------



## 20AE-2306 (Jan 21, 2006)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Check out #17 in the above diagram, it seems like it is an OEM oil feed line that doesn't use banjo bolts? Seems like something worth trying...
Also, should I order the "F", "S" or "M" part # for the water line? Any differences? The cheapest is the "S" at $69. The "F" is $88 and the "M" is $114. Which is correct for a K04-023?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Boosted96GSX)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Boosted96GSX* »_I have not yet installed my k04-22 yet, still waiting to get it. Has anyone put an audi tt 225 aftermarket TIP on their car. I have an 01(AWW) and am not sure which TIP made for the Audi I need. I have found 2 or 3 different designs. Thanks

My car is an AWW. I run the one everyone else runs. I know that they sell a few differant ones. I have a k04-20, so I use the one that is for the earlier TT 225. I guess it's the same for the 22 and 23 as well.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_
No. Nothing like the Neuspeed one fits the k04-02x. Mine is a custom made TIP. I may make more, but no one else seems too interested in them. I currently am sitting on a bunch of k04-02x inserts that cost me a bunch of money... so I'm not starting to mass produce anything else because few seem to need/want them.

I'm interested in the metal TIP. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## jettasmooth (Aug 7, 2002)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_
I'm interested in the metal TIP. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

X2


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

*Re: (jettasmooth)*

Interested also...although money is tight with a baby coming. If its not to expensive and I can offset alot of the cost by selling my current tip I'd be in. 
With the inserts I think most people have the same stance I have..not going to buy em unless I need them. Now when I strip mine out I'll be wishing I had them and praying you still have a set left. BTW how many sets do you have left, I removing my turbo tonight.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (TooLFan46n2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TooLFan46n2* »_Interested also...although money is tight with a baby coming. If its not to expensive and I can offset alot of the cost by selling my current tip I'd be in. 
With the inserts I think most people have the same stance I have..not going to buy em unless I need them. Now when I strip mine out I'll be wishing I had them and praying you still have a set left. BTW how many sets do you have left, I removing my turbo tonight.

Haha, I have plenty of sets left. Unless you are planning on taking it off a lot you're safe. I've only sold 7 inserts. And I personally have 6. So I ought to have right around 37 remaining. 

Well, it seems there are a good 2-3 people interested in a metal TIP. I'll see what it'll run to get 2-3 made and let you guys know. I don't want anyone to quote me on this... so don't hold this to be absolute, but my guess is around $125-150. The more being made the cheaper obviously. The only catch is that the one I have is aluminum. Which was ungodly expensive to make. These ones would be some sort of mild steel I'm guessing. I was thinking they'd be great powdercoated - and again, the more the cheaper it can get done. Or anyone can get it done locally. I'm thinking if 2-3 are wanted/ordered that I could probably get them done at around $140-150 powdercoated. I'm not 100% on that though. The lower portion will be matched to the actual turbo inlet and will butt up to it (2" pipe) and then have a silicone coupler to connect the turbo to the TIP. Then the turn up will be 2" and then it will get a coupler and then in the straight portion it will increase in diameter.


----------



## Boosted96GSX (May 29, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Do you have a picture I could see of it? Did you have to extend or re-route any of the lines that go to the TIP?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Boosted96GSX)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Boosted96GSX* »_Do you have a picture I could see of it? Did you have to extend or re-route any of the lines that go to the TIP?

It's a SAMCO TIP for an audi TT 225. I did not have to extend or reroute anything. It's the one that comes in the Pro Imports kit. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Boosted96GSX (May 29, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Do you know if it is the 03+ styles one, or the older one. Samco has 2 listed on their website and I cannot seem to get into the parts catalog on Pro-imports.com(is anyone else having trouble with the parts catalog).


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (Boosted96GSX)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Boosted96GSX* »_Do you know if it is the 03+ styles one, or the older one. Samco has 2 listed on their website and I cannot seem to get into the parts catalog on Pro-imports.com(is anyone else having trouble with the parts catalog).

Either TIP would work. Basically the same. One extra hole on the 03+ one. No biggie. Can plug it anyhow.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Boosted96GSX)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Boosted96GSX* »_Do you know if it is the 03+ styles one, or the older one. Samco has 2 listed on their website and I cannot seem to get into the parts catalog on Pro-imports.com(is anyone else having trouble with the parts catalog).

I think it's the newer style because it came with a plugged up extra hole. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Boosted96GSX (May 29, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Oh ok, cool thanks.


----------



## Boosted96GSX (May 29, 2007)

*Re:  (01gtiaww)*

Just wondering, how much bigger is the opening compared to a ko3 tip?


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Boosted96GSX)*

Which opening? Turbo side or MAF side? Anyway, the k03s turbo side TIP part fits inside the k04-20 turbo side TIP part. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Boosted96GSX (May 29, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

Yeah, turbo side. You answered my question


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i ran the samco for the pre 03, that one is angled different, which is why PI uses those, but anyone will work.
you can use the stock one just fine. the pre 01 unit had collapsing issues, but only with the stock panal filter, a drop in panel high flow filter or aftermarket intake will relive this since not as much pressure will be on it to suck it in.
if a after market unit can be had for less than 150 then thats a steal, but metal is not needed, not to mention it could sag under weight.
stock one is more than enough though.


----------



## Boosted96GSX (May 29, 2007)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Cool, good info http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








Will my Aem Intake need to be upgraded since it is not 3"?? It's whatever the 1.8t maf sensor housing is...


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Boosted96GSX)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Boosted96GSX* »_Cool, good info http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








Will my Aem Intake need to be upgraded since it is not 3"?? It's whatever the 1.8t maf sensor housing is...

All you need is a silicone reducer hose.


----------



## Boosted96GSX (May 29, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

That's what i figured, just wanted to make sure it wasn't a "big restriction"


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Boosted96GSX)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Boosted96GSX* »_That's what i figured, just wanted to make sure it wasn't a "big restriction" 

If you don't want any restrictions do what me and some others here do slap a filter on the MAF. I have a short ram, a filter on MAF, and a CARBONIO CAI. My mood determines which option i go with.










_Modified by 01gtiaww at 6:24 PM 2-1-2008_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_
If you don't want any restrictions do what me and some others here do slap a filter on the MAF. I have a short ram, a filter on MAF, and a CARBONIO CAI. My mood determines which option i go with.









_Modified by 01gtiaww at 6:24 PM 2-1-2008_


Carbonio w/gutted MAF housing FTW? I don't know... many people try to suggest that the stock airbox is thebest setup, but I just can't buy it still. I have a 3" inlet that is a nice even diameter the whole way through the MAF. I don't know what can flow better than that. Guess I could be crazy though.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_

Carbonio w/gutted MAF housing FTW? I don't know... many people try to suggest that the stock airbox is thebest setup, but I just can't buy it still. I have a 3" inlet that is a nice even diameter the whole way through the MAF. I don't know what can flow better than that. Guess I could be crazy though.

It's all the same to me, but the only reason i like my Carbonio is because it is the same exact size OD as the MAF. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I do run the Carbonio in the summer though. In the winter I just slap the filter on the MAF. Have you gutted the screen from your MAF? Maybe i should do that since i am working on my car as we speak. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:23 PM 2-1-2008_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_
It's all the same to me, but the only reason i like my Carbonio is because it is the same exact size OD as the MAF. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I do run the Carbonio in the summer though. In the winter I just slap the filter on the MAF. Have you gutted the screen from your MAF? Maybe i should do that since i am working on my car as we speak. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by 01gtiaww at 8:23 PM 2-1-2008_


I have. I've read tons of mixed reactions regarding doing this... but who knows. I wanted to leave the straightener and take out the mesh thing behind it... but whenever I tried to do that it screwed up the straightener so it all came out. Now it's just a nice happy flow through.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

There's a reason I haven't been sharing my dyno with you guys. I guess it's time to just... get it done


----------



## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Uhh... k03s dyno?








Umm makes me feel better I thought my dynos sucked... on a mustang dyno I still did more than you.


----------



## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

i ran the bpi velocity stack, was loud as poop but i hated the look of the oddly shaped filter. so i went to the stock box, not to mention the stock box cleaned up my logs nicely and its what i made my highest dyno runs on.


----------



## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_

There's a reason I haven't been sharing my dyno with you guys. I guess it's time to just... get it done









Damn! Why so low? You did not even reach 200whp. You sure that's not your k03sport dyno?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_

There's a reason I haven't been sharing my dyno with you guys. I guess it's time to just... get it done









Just kidding around with you guys. Here's my real one. That was in fact my k03s dyno. Same mods - just went from a 2.5" CBE to 3" CBE. So literally that's the only change besides the k04-02x and it's needed manifold + WGA. Keep some things in mind - this is running MBC w/approx 16.5psi @ redline and only running SPS3 timing of 2 due to the MBC causing boost to come on early and therefore killing my trims and throwing everything out of whack. Next dyno will be over 250whp and will also show a much better curve. You can see how this one dies out a bit







.


Oh yeah... FWIW, you should have seen the numbers pre correction and pre smoothing. Smoothing knocked some peaks out - but at the same time it's so peaky due to MBC. I wish I could talk people out of running MBCs on this setup. Maybe my next dyno will show the improvement.


_Modified by 04VDubGLI at 3:35 PM 2-2-2008_


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

That's more like it. You had me worried there for a minute. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I stopped running my MBC a while ago. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Good number none the less. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif That is actually one of the better k04-2x dynos i've seen.


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01gtiaww* »_That's more like it. You had me worried there for a minute. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I stopped running my MBC a while ago. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Good number none the less. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif That is actually one of the better k04-2x dynos i've seen.

Honestly, my next dyno is going to look much better from what I can figure based upon the new Forge WGA and the ABD intake manifold. Not to mention now I'm running off of N75 and the car is much smoother up top and definitely makes more power as well. I'm thinking it's either going to be in the 240s and holding close to that to redline or it's going to be 250s and holding in the 230s to redline. Right now I'd call that ~210-215whp @ 7000rpms. Looks like I should be shifting by like 6500rpms and then I'd still be making about 225whp according to this dyno.


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

smoothing 5 is still ALOT, real numbers are seen from 3 or less.


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_smoothing 5 is still ALOT, real numbers are seen from 3 or less.


Honestly, it knocked off a good 5-10whp IIRC. But, the place I dyno tries to standardize their numbers as much as possible. Honestly, my car on any other dyno is probably going to make very similar numbers. I'm guessing based on their correction factor and their smoothing that it's very transferable. Also, as you can see based on my k03s dyno, it's not a happy dyno by any means. For the mods I had an average k03s dyno, even for a 6spd, would be a good few more whp higher and a decent amount wtq more, but who am I to really say?


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*


_Quote, originally posted by *200320thAE2632* »_smoothing 5 is still ALOT, real numbers are seen from 3 or less.

Maybe so, but it was over 90 degrees and I promise you that I was sweating my arse off strapping cars down.


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
Maybe so, but it was over 90 degrees and I promise you that I was sweating my arse off strapping cars down.


Val strapped down like everyone's car that day. We had a nice little mini dyno day - like 5-6 cars IIRC. Val's car made 430whp that day







. Some others from the day... bone stock Saturn Ion Redline = ~211whp/188wtq (ridiculously nice curves), SRT4 w/FMIC, WGA, 3" DP, MBC = ~256whp/262wtq (he was running rich & could have made more but didn't b/c he didn't have the stg2 ECU, just all of the pieces), Val's car (k03s w/mods







or 30R? Stock head & intake manifold ) ... ~430whp on ~29/30psi and no wtq due to bad pick up (unless 1000wtq was correct?







)


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## 200320thAE2632 (Mar 15, 2007)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
Maybe so, but it was over 90 degrees and I promise you that I was sweating my arse off strapping cars down.


hahaha, what version of the dynojet was it?


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## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (200320thAE2632)*

Ok guys... move this stuff to 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3671936
trying to make things easier.


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## 20vTurboTT (Aug 18, 2004)

Ok so I have officially sold my K04-023 turbo kit and have the following parts left over if anyone is interested:
1) OEM Audi TT 225 Oil Feed Line - *$50 shipped*
2) OEM Audi TT 225 Oil Return Line - *$50 shipped*
3) OEM Audi TT 225 Coolant Line (Turbo to Block) - *$25 shipped*
The prices are somewhat firm since the lines only have ~15k miles on them and are in amazing condition but if someone is interested in all of them together I'm definitely willing to make a deal. Let me know if anyone is interested, Thanks.


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## Sodi Pop (Sep 22, 2007)

i might be picking up a gti with an apr K04 kit with exhaust giac chip water/meth, intake, dv, smic, anyone know how much hp this give the car


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Sodi Pop)*

APR k04 is not a k04-20 series turbo.


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (Sodi Pop)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Sodi Pop* »_i might be picking up a gti with an apr K04 kit with exhaust giac chip water/meth, intake, dv, smic, anyone know how much hp this give the car

With all of the mentioned mods you should expect to see around 230-240whp. With no WMI 220whp range.


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## Boosted96GSX (May 29, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Just wondering, since many people do it on their ko3's, should I, or can I crank down the wastegate a little?


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## kkkustom (Jun 5, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*



04VDubGLI said:


> Just
> 
> 
> > That tq looks safe to me, right? I mean your rods should be happy with that. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif What software are you running? I have been trying to figure out the best set up for me. I know these little guys can TQ monsters and stock rods dont like the quick heavy TQ spikes. I have not seen any evidence in regards to really good software setups for these turbos yet.
> ...


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## Fuze911 (Nov 29, 2002)

*Re: (kkkustom)*

Hey guys, haven't been on here in a while. I finally got some parts in. I installed the blue top TT injectors along with some bk7re NGK's and the TT coils. No more smoke, no more cold start problems, no more waiting for the car to warm up before i can drive and no more running INSANE rich...no more hassle. Car pulls like mad and i fell in love with it all over again. Im redoing my side exhaust and both o2 sensors and the car will be getting another dyno. Oh and im still running an MBC at 21 and an unplugged TT MAF. Car runs smoother than ever. Im very pleased. Ill keep everyone posted.


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## Boosted96GSX (May 29, 2007)

*Re: (Fuze911)*

Are the TT coils something I should be running? Are they an "Upgrade" to the stock VW coils? Worth spending the cash on?


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (Boosted96GSX)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Boosted96GSX* »_Are the TT coils something I should be running? Are they an "Upgrade" to the stock VW coils? Worth spending the cash on?

Nope. Run whichever coil you have or is cheaper (not the AEB since they are different). I run Hitachi's and they hold up great.


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## Boosted96GSX (May 29, 2007)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

Cool, thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

If anyone needs a set of TT225 OEM injectors drop me a line. I think I may have a set for sale soon.


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## Boosted96GSX (May 29, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

emailed you


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## kkkustom (Jun 5, 2007)

*Re: (Boosted96GSX)*

Ok I talked with APR about software options for a MKIV w/KO4-02X swaps. He suggested a few things. One was flash the TT225 Stage 1 software onto an Imobilizer Defeated TT225 ECU. Good idea, and would run awsome I bet, IF IT WORKS. I would have to spend another 500$ + ECU to see if it works.
Other idea was k04-1 sw and add fueling from there. He said that the Stage3 SW would be overkill for this turbo.
What do you all think?


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (kkkustom)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kkkustom* »_Ok I talked with APR about software options for a MKIV w/KO4-02X swaps. He suggested a few things. One was flash the TT225 Stage 1 software onto an Imobilizer Defeated TT225 ECU. Good idea, and would run awsome I bet, IF IT WORKS. I would have to spend another 500$ + ECU to see if it works.
Other idea was k04-1 sw and add fueling from there. He said that the Stage3 SW would be overkill for this turbo.
What do you all think?

Why don't you just get the proper SW? TheTT 225 SW would work, but the stage 3 sw would work even better considering that the stage 3 uses the same size MAF and injectors and it is pretty similar to the k04-20 kit. The reason they say it is over kill is because they want you to buy the whole kit and APR does not sell their stage 3 SW without buying the whole kit. If they would, I would have bought the stage 3 SW for my k04-20 considering I had APR on my k03sport. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## kkkustom (Jun 5, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

I figured that the stage 3 would be the best choice. I know it uses a 3" MAF, but I was unsure of the injectors.
I will end up going with this like you said. Anyone else here running ANY APR software with their swap?


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (kkkustom)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kkkustom* »_I figured that the stage 3 would be the best choice. I know it uses a 3" MAF, but I was unsure of the injectors.
I will end up going with this like you said. Anyone else here running ANY APR software with their swap?


The TT225 uses a 3" MAF from the factory. Also, their ECU will not work on our car and their SW will not work on our car. Whoever @ APR said you could flash a 225 program on to an ECU and run it in your car was wrong. There are many small differences between the ECU and the actual engine. Also, APR won't sell their Stg3/3+ SW w/o the kit - which is why he said it would be too much IMO. Um... no one is running APR SW because there's no file that is written for this turbo. You can run a k04-001 file, but it's tuned for the wrong injectors and wrong MAF size, so it'll need a fair amount of tweaking and the timing curves are going to be off and the idle is probably going to be wacky and then of course. I mean, can it be done? Of course. Savwko run a 2871R on GIAC X+. If you're trying not to spend money then give it a go on k03s SW. You're not going to maximize the potential of the setup, but it's your call. Frankly, I'd prefer to have Uni, Revo, or GIAC over APR. APR was the only local dealer for me so I once had it. But, truth be told, APR doesn't make as much power as 2 of the other 3 mentioned and additionally, APR doesn't offer anything unless you want k03/k03s/k04-001/their stg3/3+ kits. Basically, there are no tuning options. I don't know. Just my .02. I swapped/sold my APR 93oct ECU.


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## Bojje (Jul 31, 2007)

You guys who are running the Ko4-02x, what did you do to the exhaust manifold?


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## kkkustom (Jun 5, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

I did not know I could not get the stage 3 software without the kit! WTF! I think I could call my local apr tuner, and tell them what I am tring to do. When the guy flash my car, he just selcected the WF from a pull down menu.. I will have to see if he can just select the S3 and do it. 
Also If I decide on selling my ecu, like you did how much of a pain in the ass is daling with the SKC codes? how did you pull it off?
and the exhasut manifold question, you cant use the stock K03 mani, you need a TT225HP stocker.


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## bmxp (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (Bojje)*

People need to read. For any basic questions please refer to the FAQ of k04-02x serries
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3671936


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (kkkustom)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kkkustom* »_I did not know I could not get the stage 3 software without the kit! WTF! I think I could call my local apr tuner, and tell them what I am tring to do. When the guy flash my car, he just selcected the WF from a pull down menu.. I will have to see if he can just select the S3 and do it. 
Also If I decide on selling my ecu, like you did how much of a pain in the ass is daling with the SKC codes? how did you pull it off?
and the exhasut manifold question, you cant use the stock K03 mani, you need a TT225HP stocker.


It's probably possible to get an APR dealer to sell you the software, but APR doesn't offer it for sale outside of the entire setup. 
Also, the S3 is the same as the TT225. They have a different compression ratio, they have a pump that runs after the car is off, then have a couple of different stupid valves, and then naturally AWD. I'm pretty positive that their files cannot be adapted to any MKIV Golf/Jetta. You're welcome to try it, I did for many months because I didn't want to drop $721 on Revo - but in the end, I did. I sold my APR 93/stock/test pipe ECU for $300 - so I lost a bunch of money on that. There was a guy on here who did the SKCs for me for like $40. His name was "Nihilator" IIRC.


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## Nitro7853 (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

any one try to mod the ko4-020 to a rs4 turbo


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## kkkustom (Jun 5, 2007)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_People need to read. For any basic questions please refer to the FAQ of k04-02x serries
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3671936

this isnt exactly a basic question... I am not asking "hey i got this turbo what do I get for software" I paid 500$ for apr, and want to build off this. I have been reading 75% of this thread, and have searched a ton for about a month. There are no good answers sofar for APR.
PS when are they going to lock this thread, post the link to the new one and go from there? or is that not the plan?


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## kkkustom (Jun 5, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_

It's probably possible to get an APR dealer to sell you the software, but APR doesn't offer it for sale outside of the entire setup. 
Also, the S3 is the same as the TT225. They have a different compression ratio, they have a pump that runs after the car is off, then have a couple of different stupid valves, and then naturally AWD. I'm pretty positive that their files cannot be adapted to any MKIV Golf/Jetta. You're welcome to try it, I did for many months because I didn't want to drop $721 on Revo - but in the end, I did. I sold my APR 93/stock/test pipe ECU for $300 - so I lost a bunch of money on that. There was a guy on here who did the SKCs for me for like $40. His name was "Nihilator" IIRC. 


I am beginning to look Revo and sellit too. If I do I will hit him up for some SKC help, thanks a ton for that tip btw http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I e-mail the shop I went to to see if they will flash me a Stage 3 for the MKIV.


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## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*Re: (bmxp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bmxp* »_People need to read. For any questions please refer to the FAQ of k04-02x serries
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3671936


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