# Standard VS Premium stereo info



## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

I was toying with the idea of upgrading the stereo from the standard to the premium. I did a little research and think it is doable.

To start, here are the speakers locations and specs. VW refers to the systems as 8-channel and 12- channel, but oddly enough the actual speakers are either 10 or 12 depending on the system. The only addition is the 2 small speakers in the upper front doors.

Further, the bass speakers in the lower panels of all 4 doors are rated for more power and lower frequency response in the premium system.














*#1*

Front left -R20- and front right -R22- treble loudspeakers
Diameter 39 mm
Loudspeaker without capacitor
Impedance 4 ohms
Power capacity 20/30 watts
Range 1200 - 18,000 Hz
Installed in front door in mirror triangle



*#2*

Front left -R103- and front right -R104- mid-range loudspeakers
Only installed with the “Premium” sound system
Diameter 60 mm
Power capacity 20/30 watts
Range 200 - 8,000 Hz with the “Premium” sound system
Impedance 12 ohms
Installed in front door next to inside door handle



*#3*

Front left -R101- and front right -R102- mid-range and bass loudspeakers
Diameter 115 mm
Impedance 4 ohms
Power capacity 20/30 watts
Range 100 - 10,000 Hz
Installed in lower front door



*#4*

Amplifier for sound system -J525-
In the “Standard” sound system, 8-channel, CAN interface, analog technology
In the “Standard” sound system, 12-channel, CAN interface, analog technology
Installed in the luggage compartment, left
(picture is from earlier model, all U.S. are located on the right hand side)



*#5*

Rear left -R105- and rear right -R106- mid-range loudspeakers
Diameter 60 mm
Power capacity 20/30 watts
Range 200 - 8,000 Hz
Impedance 12 ohms
Installed in rear door next to inside door handle



*#6*

Rear left -R15- and rear right -R17- bass loudspeakers
Diameter 157 mm
Impedance 4 ohms
Power capacity 20/30 watts in the “Standard” sound system
Power capacity 50/70 watts in the “Premium” sound system
Range 50 - 1,000 Hz in the “Standard” sound system
Range 30 - 1,000 Hz with the “Premium” sound system
Installed in lower rear door



*#7*

Front left -R21- and front right -R23- bass loudspeakers
Diameter 157 mm
Impedance 4 ohms
Power capacity 20/30 watts in the “Standard” sound system
Power capacity 50/70 watts in the “Premium” sound system
Range 50 - 1,000 Hz in the “Standard” sound system
Range 30 - 1,000 Hz with the “Premium” sound system
Installed in lower front door


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

So the parts needed seem to be the premium amplifier, front 2 upper door speakers, 4 bass speakers. All the parts are easy to find on Ebay.de, but if it were me, I were source the amp used and just buy the speakers new from Parts.com


The wiring harnesses listed on the ETKA inside the actual door panels themselves do not reference the stereo differences, just things like soft close doors, keyless access, etc. I'd hazard a guess the connectors for the speakers are already hanging in there, much like the connector for the ashtray lights. But the main wiring harness in the car is most likely missing the wires for those speakers. Honestly, I'd probably not bother with those speakers. I'd just swap the amp and bass speakers. If someone really wanted the front speakers, it is certainly doable to run the 4 wires from the trunk, tucked under the carpet and up into the doors. From my experience, the front upper speakers are hard to hear the difference. The real advantage to the premium system is the increased and lower bass response, and the DSP modes to change the sound effects

There is no coding needed between the systems. The manual states the head unit recognizes the components and sets itself accordingly. (switches software settings)

So all that leaves us with is the wiring to the amp itself. The plugs are the same, the location of the wires are not.



Here are the pin outs. I've put them side by side for comparison.























I've sat down and wrote them all out. The only difference between them is the 4 wires, 2 for each front upper door speaker.

This looks harder than it actually is. You can buy a terminal release tool and just pull the pins out. The trick is to either buy an extra set of connectors, or cut them off a junk car. If sourcing a premium amp on Ebay, ask the selling to include the plugs.

Once you have the spare set of plugs, remove and discard the old terminals & wires if any, so you are starting with empty plugs.

Then just follow this-

*new* 'premium' B plug-

PIN
1- A9 (insert wire from existing 'standard' A9, remove from plug A, pin 9 in car with basic system and put into pin #1 of new premium plug)
2- A22
3- A18
4- blank 
5- B5 (same)
6- A15
7- blank 
8- blank
9- A2
10- blank 
11- blank 
12- A1
13- blank 
14- blank 
15- A6
16- no change
17- no change
18- A3
19- no change
20- no change
21- no change
22- no change
23- no change


*new* 'premium' A plug-

PIN

1- B6
2- B3
3- A24
4- B12
5- B9
6- A21
7- B18
8- B15
9- *missing- Front Left Mid Negative
10- no change
11- no change
12- *missing- front left mid positive
13- no change
14- no change 
15- * missing- front right mid negative
16- no change
17- no change
18- *missing front right mid positive
19- no change
20- no change
21- B1
22- A12
23- no change
24- B2


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Archival Note:*

Here are some related discussions (some of them from a long time ago) that might contain additional information that could be useful when planning this project -

Where are the 12 speakers?

Sound System - Wiring Diagrams (they are attached to different posts within this discussion)

Interior Door Panel Removal

Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

PowerDubs said:


> ... But the main wiring harness in the car is most likely missing the wires for those speakers. Honestly, I'd probably not bother with those speakers [Ed: The two tweeters that are in the front doors, forward of the inside door release handle]. I'd just swap the amp and bass speakers. If someone really wanted the front speakers, it is certainly doable to run the 4 wires from the trunk, tucked under the carpet and up into the doors.


Josh:

I'm not very knowledgeable about audio quality, high fidelity, stuff like that - but, if you put the 12 channel amplifier in the car, and did not put those two little speakers in, wouldn't there be a "hole" in the music where the sound that is supposed to come out of those two tweeters is?

In other words - is it possible that the 12 channel amplifier might send certain sounds only to those two little tweeters, and not to any of the other 10 speakers?

Michael


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

Yes, that could be correct in theory, no doubt about it 

I'm not sure if anyone would hear the difference in real world conditions however. I've listened to both systems and don't miss the little speakers on my basic system. The low end bass response on the other hand is quite noticeable as are the sound effects of the DSP modes.

*disclaimer- I spent 4 years in the U.S. Army as a medic assigned to an artillery unit. Much time was spent around things that went BOOM with substantial damage to my hearing. So others sense of clarity may be quite a bit better than mine.


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## Lord bass (Aug 3, 2012)

Hi Josh,
I've been upgrading car audio for years and have the standard system in my phaeton. Its the best oem system i've heard in a car. The only thing i think it lacks is some low end bass at higher volume. I installed a bandpass bass box firing thru the ski hatch in mine. I think its well balanced now. 

Raz


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## 53 0val (Feb 23, 2010)

The average age PHAETON owner would never "hear" the difference. 

Bob


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

My hearing falls off above 3kHz thanks to Caravelles and Concordes and the passing of time. 

But I find that the various audio settings on the standard sound make a vast and unexpected difference to the sound, much more than you would expect with only Bass, Mid, Treble, Loudness and GALA. It has taken me a year to find a suitable spot with good presence and at least a bit of decent bass, although more bass and less boom would be nice.

Chris


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## Jxander (Aug 5, 2008)

Lord bass said:


> Hi Josh,
> I've been upgrading car audio for years and have the standard system in my phaeton. Its the best oem system i've heard in a car. The only thing i think it lacks is some low end bass at higher volume. I installed a bandpass bass box firing thru the ski hatch in mine. I think its well balanced now.
> 
> Raz


Raz:

I too have the standard audio system in my Phaeton. I as you believe, think the standard system is pretty darn good. I believe it would be pretty hard and fairly expensive to significantly improve on it. Although I don't like too much bass in my audio and haven't heard a subwoofer that I appreciate. My Touareg sound system is awful compared to the Phaeton and the Bose system with a subwoofer in my former Maxima was not even close to as good. I understand that there are better systems out there and the 270W Phaeton option is one of them. 

I know, I'm going to be told that I'm tone deaf or too old. However, listening to Sarah Brightman or Andrea Bocelli while cruising at 75 mph in my Phaeton is awfully nice. 

Jim X


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## Larrygodfrey (Oct 7, 2012)

Hi,

I've recently purchased my 2009 TDI Phaeton and found the front bass speakers in op. VW Bristol assured me they were not blown and that this was not a common problem - It is, so be careful when running your bass high on loud songs using original speakers. 
I upgraded the bass and tweeter system using Hertz 165 speakers. I didnt need to use the crossovers in the pack as the ones in the car are compatible.
The sound is completely different now - so much better and now i don't need to put a bass box in the boot. 
FYI - there were 2 bottom speakers in my doors!!! one pointing into the car and one pointing into the door! I changed the one pointing into the doors (the bass speakers!!!)

cheers

Larry


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## tonis555 (Sep 18, 2012)

Larrygodfrey said:


> Hi,
> 
> I've recently purchased my 2009 TDI Phaeton and found the front bass speakers in op. VW Bristol assured me they were not blown and that this was not a common problem - It is, so be careful when running your bass high on loud songs using original speakers.
> I upgraded the bass and tweeter system using Hertz 165 speakers. I didnt need to use the crossovers in the pack as the ones in the car are compatible.
> ...


did you left the same amplifier?


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## Larrygodfrey (Oct 7, 2012)

Hi,

Happy New year.

Yes I left original Amp.

It sounds great.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Larry,

Can you give some more info about your speaker changes? For example:

-- Was the part number the DSK165 kit?
-- Was there plenty of room for the drive magnet between the speaker and the door trim?
-- Did the mounting holes match? Did you need replacement captive 'nuts'?
-- Did you change the door pillar tweeter or add the extra tweeter to the door-handle trim?
-- Was this on the front doors or the rear doors (or both?)
-- Did you have to cross over the +/- phasing on the bass speaker wires?

Cheers,
Chris


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## Larrygodfrey (Oct 7, 2012)

Hi Chris,

I had the Front Bass Speakers and Pillar Tweetes upgraded to HERTZ ESK165.

I did not need to use the crossovers within the ESK165 pack as the ones in the car were sufficient to run the 200 watt speakers.

http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/doc/pdf_esk165.pdf

I had the speakers fitted by professionals - Western Car Radio - Bristol, and they said no problems with the passenger side, but the drives side needed a little plastic trimming to fit the speakers behind the electric controls.

I had the door pillar tweeters replaced, didn't add to the door handle trim, not really sure if 2 tweeters that close together would be of any benifit?

Probably get more info if you call Western Car Radio - 0117 926 4613, they were great.

Good luck

Cheers

Larry


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Thanks, Larry. It's food for thought.

Cheers,
Chris


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## feared (Aug 13, 2009)

Do you have the premium sound system?

It's interesting that a speaker-only upgrade can make a decent difference


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## jimay (Aug 1, 2006)

*I have the premium sound*

The difference is huge.

The extra speakers seem to work in concert with the DSP to create significantly altered spatial dimension in the music. The surround effect is incredible.

Every dealer loaner I have driven has had the regular radio package in it. I couldn't wait to get back into mine.


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## ddantes (May 14, 2012)

So..did anyone made the upgrade? From the first post it seems that besides some different pin assignment there is no problem installing the 12ch amp instead of 8ch amp. 

I'd try something like this but i'm afraid that there is more... besides new speakers. 

Also, in the front doors, there are 2 woofers, one facing the door and one facing the interior of the car. The one facing the door is compatible with a 16.5 cm and a Hertz ESK165 it's perfect. But what about the speaker facing the interior of the car? What diameter is that? 

Thanks, 
Daniel


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## ddantes (May 14, 2012)

First step ...changing the amplifier...checked. 
For anyone that want to do it, you'll need the black connectors from the dsp amplifier and move the pins from the standard amplifier to this one. 
After doing this, everything works as expected... 

Next....new speakers...


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

> After doing this, everything works as expected...


 That's a good achievement! 

Does the central display immediately recognise the new amplifier, and list the DSP menu? 

Chris


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## ddantes (May 14, 2012)

Yes. No coding needed. All dsp functions are working like a charm. 
I also installed the speakers...just coming from the car... It's crazy stuff.. All Hertz from Energy line, no crossovers since the amplif is doing the job, and the sound is divine! 
More and more i love this car! 

Daniel


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

ddantes said:


> After doing this, everything works as expected...
> 
> Next....new speakers...


 


Yup, I was expecting it would work as well. 

The only difference you will have without changing the speakers is the missing tweeters up front and the other speakers not having the low HZ range capability that is more for feeling the bass than hearing IMO. I'm not so sure most people would notice the difference.


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## saxtonram (May 30, 2013)

*May give this a try*

Hello gang

I too have the basic stereo, which impresses me. But I am sufficiently Type A that I may try to upgrade to the premium amp just because it sounds even better.

From this tread, I understand the speaker upgrade is for the pillar and door tweeters and the door facing subwoofer. No need to worry about the absent two speakers in the door handle area.

My big question is - where does one get one of the premium amps for a 2006 Phaeton?

Nic

PS. Also curious what people have used to tie in an axillary input to their stereo (I am also following this question on another thread).


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## saxtonram (May 30, 2013)

Sorry to reply to myself, but I just had another idea for upgrading my stereo.

Can I use the two extra speakers with the upgrade to the premium amp to run a new set of 10" subwoofers in a custom made trunk box?

Just a thought....


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## Lord bass (Aug 3, 2012)

I used a Solisto unit similar to the one in this post: 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5148540-Installed-iPod-for-Phaeton
With regard to the subwoofer box I used the output from the 2 rear bass speakers at the amp to get a signal to my bass box.


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## saxtonram (May 30, 2013)

Lord Bass
What bass box did you get to fit the trunk of the LWB?
Nic


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## Lord bass (Aug 3, 2012)

I used a VIBE audio active band pass bass box and fired the port thru the ski hatch into the car.


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## saxtonram (May 30, 2013)

*amp model numbers*

Hello again

SO I found an amp on ebay (3D0335466). I am guessing that is from a 2004 Phaeton because checking other places the model number for a 2005 and 2006 is 3D0335466A. Any idea what the difference is? Should I have gotten the 3D0335466A instead since I have a 2006?

Nic


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Nic,

I have these deployed part numbers for the Phaeton. Where it says 'dropped on mm/yy, use so-and-so' it means that the succeeding part number is backwards compatible:


*8-channel amplifiers*

3D0 035 456 -- 8ch 3D3 car with s/n less than 8000 -- dropped 05/2004, use 3D0 035 465
3D0 035 465 -- 8ch 3D5 car with s/n less than 2000 -- dropped 04/2005, use 3D0 035 465A
3D0 035 465A -- 8ch 3D5 car with s/n less than 2000 -- dropped 09/2008, use 3D0 035 465B

*12-channel amplifiers*

3D0 035 456A -- 12ch 3D3 car with s/n less than 8000 -- dropped 12/2003, use 3D0 035 466
3D0 035 466 -- 12ch 3D3 car with s/n less than 8000 -- dropped 04/2005, use 3D0 035 466A

*Later cars ('8-way' and '12-way' description dropped)*

3D0 035 465B -- option 9VJ (normal) -- 3D9 car to 2009 with s/n less than 6000
3D0 035 465C -- option 9VJ (normal) -- 2009 with s/n higher than 10001


3D0 035 466A -- option 9VE (digital) -- 3D9 car to 2009 with s/n less than 6000
3D0 035 466B -- option 9VI ('Dynaudio') -- 2009 with s/n higher than 10001, to 05/2012
3D0 035 466D -- option 9VI ('Dynaudio') -- 05/2012 on


There may be others, since VW sometimes slot in out-of-sequence parts for some reason, but these are the ones I found in sequence.

Chris


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## saxtonram (May 30, 2013)

Thanks Chris

Do I take this to mean then that 3D0 035 466 is the most recent amp? Is there any reason that I should use one or the other to replace the standard amp in my 2006 Phaeton?

Nic

12-channel amplifiers

3D0 035 456A -- 12ch 3D3 car with s/n less than 8000 -- dropped 12/2003, use 3D0 035 466
3D0 035 466 -- 12ch 3D3 car with s/n less than 8000 -- dropped 04/2005, use 3D0 035 466A


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Well, if you had a broken 466 then the parts list would tell the dealer it was no longer available, and to install a 466A.

I presume that means the 466A is backwards compatible, ie adds no extra functionality when plugged in to replace a 466, but works (perhaps, speaking generally, with some coding change that is not mentioned - there may be no free lunch!)

Chris


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## saxtonram (May 30, 2013)

I agree.

The issue is that I am starting with the Basic Amp, and am looking to try the rewiring with the Premium Amp as suggested at the start of this thread by PowerDub. 

So Do I start with the A or non-A version of the premium amp given that I am starting with the basic system in a 2006 V8 (LWB) Phaeton?

Nic


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Nic,

In my view it will make no difference which you start with. Also, since 466 and 466A are both available used at less than $100 (eg here, it is not a show-stopper to try the other should you find problems with the one.

Chris


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## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

Hi all,
Could someone please confirm the loudspeaker specs posted above? 
For example, it is stated that the impedance of the 157mm woofers is 4Ohm, whereas I have seen some pictures of the loudspeakers where I read 2Ohm at the coil back plate.
Many thanks in advance.

Gabriel


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## ddantes (May 14, 2012)

My car has all the speakers at 4ohms...you made me look at those.


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## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

Hi Daniel,
Look here at post #35.

Gabriel


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## ddantes (May 14, 2012)

Indeed...it seems that they are 2ohm speakers.
Should it be 4ohms for standard and 2ohm for premium? Anyway...it sounds perfectly.


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## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

*For the experts delight.*

Hi all,
These a couple of pictures that I took from my 8 channel amp:


















Now the question is: The standard 8 channel set up features 10 speakers, the DSP 12 channel set up has 12 speakers. So is it that in the standard set up two pairs of speakers are driven by the same channel, whereas on the premium sound system every single speaker is driven by an independent channel?
Any thoughts?

Gabriel


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## Tiger0002 (Apr 23, 2013)

Alright... this would be a lesson for those who don't know too much about stereo system and speaker setup.

When you got a 8 or 12 speakers, it does NOT means that you have 8 or 12 separate amplifier channels to drive each single speakers.

It is more likely that 3 speakers are driven by one amp channel via a crossover (built into the amp circuitry.) So... if you have 8 speakers... most likely you have 4 two-way crossover... so 2 speakers per channel.

If you have a 12 speaker system, you have 4 three-way crossover... so 3 speakers per channel.


This means both amps are 4 channel amplifier but you either have two way crossovers to drive 8 speakers in there or the three-way crossovers to drive 12 speakers.


Most speakers in the world are built 4 ohm... I never seen a 2 ohm car stereo speaker... the difference is how much power it takes to drive these speakers... so 4 ohm speakers are easier to power.

As for 2 or 4 ohm speakers... it doesn't matter as long you got the proper crossover to pair them with... the crossover will make the three or two speakers act like one speaker for the amplifier... usually at 4 ohm.

Majority of the amplifiers are built for 4 ohm loads... very few can handle 2 ohm load... thos that can tend to be very expensive and runs hot. If you try to run a 2 ohm speaker on 4 ohm amp... you will kill the amp. So... this is important to make sure you use the same ohm rating for speakers that you replace without changing the crossover.


So... what's the difference between 2 way speaker system and three way speaker system? Easiest way is to hear the home speaker system... of similar size/brand and using the same amplifier. Is it that much better? Yes and no... 

Cheap three way component speaker system does not sound better than expensive two way component speaker set. I am talking about like $200 three way system compare to say $300 two way system for cars. 

Like home speakers... many brands and many different sound quality. Some are designed for more Rock and Roll and some are designed for classical instruments... guess which one is more expensive? Classical Instruments...

So... without getting too long... I suggest you go audition the speakers at car stereo shops before you buy it... you must understand that you need to somehow match the power of the amp to the speaker requirement...

Buying ultra expensive speakers that needs a lot of power will overheat factory amp... but in most cases, you should be alright if you steer away from the ultra expensive speaker system.


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## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

Tiger0002 said:


> Alright... this would be a lesson for those who don't know too much about stereo system and speaker setup.
> 
> When you got a 8 or 12 speakers, it does NOT means that you have 8 or 12 separate amplifier channels to drive each single speakers.
> 
> ...


 Hi Tiger,
Thanks for the thorough explanation, but the fact is that the standard system has 10 speakers, not eigth. So how do you pair them to the eight channels and the cross overs?
Thanks in advance.

Gabriel


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## Tiger0002 (Apr 23, 2013)

10 speakers? That's easy... 2 three way speaker system and 2 two way speaker system... most likely the three way systems are in the front seats.


The back speaker system is not important unless the car is chauffer driven and the main listener is in the back. Otherwise, it is not important to the driver... it is more of a 'fill.' instead of being silent in the back. We can't hear the clarity of the sound from the back because the speakers are aimed for the rear passengers. We do hear some bass sound from rear.

For majority of us... the biggest improvement is the speaker upgrade in the front. Sometime there are odd sizes in factory system so it is not really a true three way speaker system in the Phaeton. 

A true three way system is like a pair of 6.5" speakers (woofers), a pair of 4" mid-range speakers and a pair of 1" tweeters.

I believe in the Phaeton, we have two sets of tweeters to improve the soundstage due to the enormous width of the car.

As for the 2 ohm speakers... I forgot that the door has two woofers... each is two ohm and two of them tied together becomes a standard 4 ohm speaker. This is normal. For this speaker... you can disconnect the woofer facing the door and just use an aftermarket one facing inside the car.

That door set woofer is basically a two voice coil system... to 'boost' the woofer loudness. But a high quality woofer with big magnet will do the job just as well.

So to properly upgrade Phaeton speakers would to buy a good two way component speaker system.


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## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

Thanks again Tiger,
However.... could not it be that the OEM 12 channel system has the large woofers of the front and rear doors tied together? That is 2+2 ohm in series equals 4ohm. Whereas the standard system does not tie them as each of them is a 4ohm speaker?
If it was like that, I would be concerned because I have just fitted the 12 channel amp, which means that with the standard speakers I would have the following impedance on the woofer channel: (4x4)/(4+4)=2ohm, which is fairly low.
What do you reckon?

Gabriel

P.D. Just another thought, could not it be that the premium system features woofers with 2ohm impedance in order to rise the power output?


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## Tiger0002 (Apr 23, 2013)

No, the front and back door speakers would not be tied together or otherwise you cannot separate the channels... such as if you turn to left or right speakers and fade to front or back.


As you just figured out... if you have two 4 ohm speakers at each door... it would be 2 ohm... too much for the amp or the crossover. I never took my car apart so can only go by what you tell me... if your door woofer at each door has two speakers and both are 2 ohm... they are tied together to create a 4 ohm load... so if you want to replace them, you just install one woofer and leave the other one disconnected and taped up.

Here is another way to use both speakers... is if you do parallel... as in positive to positive on both speakers...Think of it as a Y connector... from one wire into two wires and positive to positive... 4 ohms pair will become 2 ohm load.

If you did series connection... as positive to one speaker... negative to positive of another speaker and then negative to original negative wire... it will become a 6 ohm load... safe. Or if you did both speakers at 4 ohm in series, the it becomes 8 ohm... safe. Going higher ohm will draw less power from your amp.



2 ohm load will force the amp to send out more power... but that is only if it was originally designed that way. I highly doubt that factory amp is designed with 2 ohm load.

To do proper diagnostic... always isolate each corner of the car and look at what you got... 

For example... if you got:
2 tweeters separate
2 woofers in door together
three way crossover...

Then it is most likely 
two identical crossover frequencies for two tweeters at 4 ohm each...
one low pass crossover frequency for pair of woofer... at 2 ohm each for 4 ohm load (in series)


If you got:
two tweeters
1 woofer in the door
three way crossover...

then it is same as above except the woofer is simply a 4 ohm by itself.


Two way system is same as all above except only one tweeter.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Here's a list of OEM bass loudspeaker part numbers, for those wishing to buy replacements, or match up non-OEM replacements with their supplier cross-references:

*8-channel*
3D0 035 454E - bass, front, 4-ohms (used to be 3D0 035 454B)
3D0 035 453A - mid-range/bass, front
3D0 035 454C - bass, rear

*12-channel*
3D0 035 454D - bass, front, 2-ohms (used to be 3D0 035 454)
3D0 035 453 - mid-range/bass, front
3D0 035 454A - bass, rear

*2012 on, standard sound*
3D0 035 454K - bass, front
3D0 035 453E - mid-range/bass, front
3D0 035 454L - bass, rear

*12-channel Dynaudio* (for blurb see http://www.dynaudio.com/int/car_hifi/vw_phaeton.php)
3D0 035 454H - bass, front
3D0 035 453D - mid tone, front
3D0 035 454J - bass, rear


The 8-channel bass speakers are usually marked '4-ohms', but I can't find any reference as to whether the 12-channel ones are marked '2-ohms' or not. Anyone? [edit - found a photo clearly showing a label saying '2-ohms', plus Gabriel's confirmation below].

In all systems, each speaker is fed with its own pair of wires from the amplifier (otherwise referred to as the 'Digital Sound Packet Control Unit'). One reason for this is so that the diagnostics system can check the electrical continuity of each of the speaker connections individually.

*Please note*: The rear bass speakers are riveted to the door equipment carrier panel with pop-rivets part no. N 907 657 01. It is required that all swarf arising from drilling these out must be collected and removed to prevent corrosion of the door panels.

Chris


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## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

Hi all,
The information I have about the speakers is quite confusing. This is what I got yesterday from VW Erwin:

_*Standard system: *_
_
- 8 channels.
- Power: 4 x 18W @ 4 ohm, mid and trebble loudspeakers. 4 x 30W @ 4 ohm bass loudspeakers. _

That works out 192W, which is quite close to the stated 190W at SSP 273 p54. However the standard system features 10 speakers, so there are 2 speakers missing... 
If it was 6 x 18W @ 4 ohm, mid bass, mid and trebble loudspeakers, plus 4 x 30W @ 4 ohm bass loudspeakers, that would work out 228W, which is way far from 190W.
On the other hand, if it was 10 x 18W @ 4 ohm, bass, mid bass, mid and trebble loudspeakers, that would work out 180W. A slightly closer figure to 190W.

_*Premium system:*_

_- 12 channels.
- Power: 8 x 18W @ 4 ohm, mid bass, mid and trebble loudspeakers. 4 x 30W @ 4 ohm bass loudspeakers. 
_
That works out 264W_, _which again is quite close to the stated 270W at SSP 273 p54.

In any of the above cases, there is a mistake: the impedance of the mid loudspeakers, the ones by the door handles, is 12ohm, not 4ohm. I have seen that in several pictures.
Again, the same doubt arises with the premium system bass loudspeakers, according several pictures the impedance is 2ohm, not 4ohm.
Cheers.

Gabriel


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## Tiger0002 (Apr 23, 2013)

With that info... all speakers are 4 ohm... and therefore you replace them with 4 ohm speakers.

18W is not a whole lot but is probably the true RMS rating... with this in mind, make sure you match the speaker to that wattage... say you are looking at a two way component set...

One set say RMS power 2 to 100 Watt... and another one say 2-70 Watt... It is more likely the 2-70 watt speaker system will sound better than the 2-100 watt... Better yet, go audition those speakers with low wattage power amp or simply from head units at your local stereo shops.

There is a bit of sound difference between head unit powered and amp powered.


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## saxtonram (May 30, 2013)

*Options*

I am currently having my standard amp replaced and various speakers upgraded for Premium system (http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-My-fixation-on-upgrading-the-standard-stereo).

Referring to the speaker diagram provided by PowerDubes at the start of this thread, I am replacing speakers in position 1, 7, and 6 with 4 ohm speakers (Pioneer, Alpine). 

The problem comes with adding the missing speaker in position 2 (front). This speaker position in the original Premium system and the equivalent speaker in the rear (position 5) are 12 ohm made by Blaupunkt. 

So for these speakers (2, 5), I have two options: (1) find another set of the Blaupunkt for the front (2), or (2) replace both with similar specification speakers (Pioneer TS D1720C speakers http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...ries/TS-D1720C) at 4 ohms and add a resister to get to the matched 12 ohm.

The other complication is that the speaker in position 5 for my standard 10 speaker set up has a part number of 3D0 035 411 J (12 ohms). However, Chris above lists the OEM part # as 3D0 035 453A with the 12 speaker system using the OEM part # 3D0 035 453. Which is the correct upgraded speaker part number to add the additional speakers in position 2 and should I also replace the ones in position 5?

Advice?

Nic


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Nic,

I apologise if my part number listing was misleading - I only listed the bass or 'mid-bass' speakers, that is those in positions 3, 6 and 7 in Josh's diagram.

The problem with the missing high-level speakers is that according to VW they only come already fixed into the veneered trim piece, so firstly you have to choose the wood you want, and secondly you have to pay two or three hundred for the privilege of throwing it away.

It sounds like you have the solution: speaker 3D0 035 411J lists as a mid-tone from the high position in the four doors of a Touareg, now replaced by 7L6 035 415A. This seems a good way to buy it without the veneer. They are around $50 in US and £10 in Europe, although I can't vouch for the connector type.

It's probably not a great solution to replace a 12-ohm speaker with a 4-ohm and pad with a resistor. The 8-ohm resistor will dissipate two-thirds of the energy supplied to the speaker, so the mid-tone sound volume could be lower than planned for. Also, the actual impedance of the speaker will vary across the range, so when it's high (eg a 4-ohm could rise to 30-ohms at some frequency) the current drawn at that frequency will dip due to the resistor. Normally the amp channel and the low-resistance wiring acts as a current source to the speaker and tries to compensate for the impedance change by raising the channel's output voltage, that is, within its practical limits.

Cheers,
Chris


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## feared (Aug 13, 2009)

I see that while the "old" premium sound system was rated at 270W, the new Dynaudio system is rated at 1000W. Is this just marketing trickery, or are the newer amplifiers really that much more powerful? I would guess that there are new speakers for the Dynaudio system as well.

I'm looking to upgrade my 8 channel system to the 12 channel, but if the Dynaudio would involve a little more work then I'm trying to gauge if it's worth the hassle and expense.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

I speculate that the 'Dynaudio' amplifier might be programmed to talk to the RNS-810 central display in post-2008 cars, and would not communicate properly with a 2005 ZAB central display. But that is purely a cautionary guess until someone tries it.

Chris


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## feared (Aug 13, 2009)

The part numbers are definitely different, but I'm wondering if they're any different electrically and whether the claimed 1000W is realistic or just marketing.

Has anyone heard the 270W DSP system and the Dynaudio system?


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

1000w probably just refers to the rated maximum output of the amplifiers, so it isn't that much. Generally speaking, better sound comes from amplifiers that are big enough that they're not near maximum during normal operation, with an amp per pair of speakers that are frequency-matched using an active crossover.


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## portal1986 (Jul 24, 2014)

How to connect an external amplifier with bass box? Plugging the bass speaker wires? And what about the control amplifier? Which pin is 12V when swiched on the radio?


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## Lord bass (Aug 3, 2012)

portal1986 said:


> How to connect an external amplifier with bass box? Plugging the bass speaker wires? And what about the control amplifier? Which pin is 12V when swiched on the radio?


I tapped into the rear bass speaker outputs on the factory amp. You can either use the high level input on your external amp or use a hi to low level converter. The 12v to switch the external amp on, I found an empty fuse holder that was + when the ign was on in the fusebox above the left hand battery and used a spade connector to connect to it.


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## steveskinr (Oct 31, 2007)

Josh

How long did it take to change the pins? 

A friend is interested in doing this after I told him what you'd done.


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

I never did it. This was just preliminary research.

I can't imagine it would take you long if you have spare plug caps and terminal removal tools.


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## steveskinr (Oct 31, 2007)

Thanks Josh

How long did it take you Daniel?

How did yours turn out Nic?


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## Chazklein1 (Jun 13, 2016)

*Question regarding plug wiring*

PowerDubs. thank you so much for the information on the plug wiring. I am confused though by the pictures and the whole A and B thing. I would like to upgrade from my standard stereo to the premium, but i need help. to keep an old thread from bumping a bunch, can you message me over email. It would be greatly appreciated!


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

*Moderation note:*

Personal Messaging is a great tool, but if there is likely to be any new information swilling about it's a good idea to append to the end of the main thread that deals with that subject. That way, everyone can share in the knowledge (if any).

Hopefully Vortex will be here as a reference resource for the effective life of all our cars, but PMs are invisible and get deleted.

Chris


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

Chaz,

I am not sure what else I could tell you. I think the info I provided is what is needed to complete the job. 

Can someone else scan my work and let me know if I am wrong?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

*Summary to date*

The two main threads containing information on upgrading the Phaeton sound system are the one you are reading, where Josh's pinouts and descriptions are (of course) correct, and Nic's thread here (linked in this thread):

Operation "Phaeton" - My fixation on upgrading the standard stereo.

Other information is given in these threads, both on the basic/premium upgrade and third party upgrades:

Where are the 12 speakers
Phaeton audio upgrade
Phaeton Audio Upgrade by Pioneer ODR Brax and TRU


There will be a decision to be made as to whether to change some or all of the loudspeakers or whether to retain the 'basic' ones and just upgrade the amplifier.
Reading Nic's thread (above) will give some insight into how an upgrade was actually done.
Gabriel's photos will show how to run additional tweeter wires through the car if that is decided to be done.
In other words, carefully reading this thread from end to end will reveal the parts required, the pin connection changes necessary on the amplifier plugs and the changes to the loudspeakers made by the factory between the 'basic' audio and the 'premium' audio on pre-RNS-810 cars. This thread also contains a link showing the lowest cost used audio amplifiers currently available in Europe on allegro.pl.

Finally, Michael (PanEuropean) issued a caution about the upgrade after he discussed it with the factory, who said that the wiring loom is different and it would be prohibitively difficult and expensive to rewire the car. However, I think this has now been worked around, as described in the above threads.

Chris


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## RocketVol (Oct 7, 2014)

Chaz
It is not a hard job and everything you need is contained in the links Chris provided. I would definitely recommend getting the terminal tool, it makes it easy, without it hard. You will also need the 2 black connectors that are for the upgraded amp, the green and grey ones from the 8 channel amp won't fit the 12 channel (you could probably mod them to fit if you wanted to). Except for the 4 new wires for the small mids, all of the other wires are the same, no need for a new harness at all.

I did mine incrementally, amp first, then front bass speakers, then rear bass speakers, and still haven't wired up the small mids in the front door trim but have the wires run into the back area. Running the front door trim mid speaker wires from the amp to the cabin was the biggest part of the job and I finally just removed the whole back seat.

Here are my impressions. Amp change alone makes a noticeable difference and of course provides the DSP modes, changing the front bass speakers makes a bigger difference, and changing the rear bass speakers makes the whole thing sound fuller and more enveloping. A note about the rears, they are riveted in and must be drilled out and the new ones riveted back in with a specific VW rivet...make sure you get all of the shavings from where you drilled the rivets out from the inside of the door panel or you might get some corrosion later on. Right now I am happy with the small mids not hooked up and it sounds dramatically better than the 8 channel, when I need to take the door panels off again I will finish it up, but it sounds really good to me right now as is.

I got all of my parts, except the amp connectors, from allegro.pl specifically "SpeedCar" If I remember correctly the 4 speakers and the amp were less than $100 including shipping

John


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## august125 (Feb 21, 2015)

I'd like to perform this upgrade some day, and was thinking of using the 12-channel amplifier in conjunction with the higher quality Dynaudio drivers out of the late model European cars. In order for this upgrade to work, they would need to have the same impedance as the drivers originally supplied with the 9VE system as that is the load the amp is designed to drive. Does anyone know where I would find the impedance rating in ohms of the Dynaudio system drivers? I've looked for spec sheets or photos of the drivers showing the labeling to no avail.


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## ravenflies (Oct 31, 2013)

I looked at the front bass speaker for my 2004 9VE system and the part number "3D0 035 454 D" has been replaced by "3D0 035 454 H", and that is noted as "Dynaudio" for models from late May 2012. Same for midrange speaker. Different for rear bass, but I think this indicates same impedance.

Lennart


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## Chazklein1 (Jun 13, 2016)

*Pinout question*

PowerDubs, I have a few questions on the wiring/connection. Its just a clarification I believe
1. In reference to the amplifier connectors, which one is the A connector as it sits in the trunk, the left or the right one?
2. In reference to the pinout wiring, are you refering to pin one of the plug in view of the side that has wires going into it, or the side of the connector that plugs into the amplifier?
3. In reviewing the wiring. I noticed it says things like 'so and so wire from plug A into plug B. Is that correct? I am asking this question because it makes it appear that some wires from plug A are now going into plug B, and some from plug B go into plug A. As in the plug wiring intersects the other wiring. 

UPDATE: I just received my 12 channel amplifier with the plugs today


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## Chazklein1 (Jun 13, 2016)

Success! I did the wiring with hesitation as I wanted to be sure we were in the same page. However, I just went for it and it works! I even managed to take out the seats and get the wires for the two fron mid speakers wired up. I found the little speakers used from a phaeton in Lithuania. They will be here tomorrow. The upgraded bass speakers have been ordered as well. 
I have some information regarding parts for anyone attempting this.

The tool required to remove the tiny 1.5 mm terminals is a stahwille 1556.
The part number for the little 1.5 mm terminals is 000 979 131
The part number for the larger 2.5 mm terminals is 000 979 133.
I did not need a tool to remove the larger ones. 
Additionally, if you cannot find the plugs for the premium amp, I have listed them below
Premium Plug A is 1J0 962 624
Premium Plug B is 1J0 962 623

If your original plugs become damaged, here are the standard plug for the basic system
Standard Plug A is 1J0 962 624A
Standard Plug B is 1J0 962 623B


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## Widescreen111 (Sep 19, 2015)

*RNS 810 8-channel amp upgrade to 12-channel ?*

Hi all,

I have sourced and ordered an 3D0035456A from early -03.
Planning to replace my stock 8-channel unit 3D0035465C from -09.

Despite the coding tags on connector plugs being different preventing direct swap between the amplifiers, is there anything more changed during the years ?
My plan is to make necessary wiring changes inside the 12-channel amp to match existing 8-channel plug A and B.
Then I only need to remove the coding tags on plugs and/or the amp and can keep the original wiring scheme on the plugs.

Thing that buggers me is the limited access to the amplifier area ...

Do I need to completely remove and disconnect the RHS battery before the amp will come loose and I can release the plugs ?
IF battery needs to be disconnected, is there some coding/adaptation needed after reconnecting it back again ?

I hope someone who has done the swap can encourage me !

Regards
Leo


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Widescreen111 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I have sourced and ordered an 3D0035456A from early -03.
> Planning to replace my stock 8-channel unit 3D0035465C from -09.
> ...


Leo,

If you disconnect the positive cable on the RHS battery, be sure to make sure it can't touch ground or disconnect the LHS battery also. Read this thread _before_ disconnecting either battery:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5601569

On mine, it looks like my RHS battery would need to come out completely and I have a small RHS battery. I have a power trunk (boot) and it looks like the hydraulic pump would also have to be moved out of the way. 

As far as adaptation, you would have to readapt the windows, the sunroof, the seats and probably the steering if you disconnect the left battery (I think that's all). If you have VCDS, you will also have tons of faults that need to be cleared. I usually have to do a "Clear ALL DTCs" at least 3 times on every (left) battery disconnect. 

Good luck,

-Eric


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## Widescreen111 (Sep 19, 2015)

*8-channel unit 3D0035465C pin layout comp. to 12-channel unit 3D0035456A ?*

Hi again ,
Did the swap between my current 8 -channel to 12-channel unit which I sourced from Lithuania.
I´m pretty sure that I repositioned all the pins correctly following the instructions given on this thread.
After plugging in the amp, I could not get any sound out of any speaker, all the functions on RNS 810 were OK , I could change the source and adjust the volume and turn it off/on normally, but no sound, just silent hissing sound..
All fuses are OK and after remounting the org amp., everything was directly back to normal.

If this 12-channel amp does not need any new coding with VCDS and it is working as the seller told me, then it only can be that the pin layout has been changed across the years from year 2003 to year 2009 and onward and it is no longer acc. to info available here at the forum.

The question is if someone here at the forum has a new valid pin layout for 8-channel amplifier from year 2009 and on ?

Then I could make a new pin matching between my old 12-channel and my current 8-channel.
Hoping for your support !

Leo


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Leo,

The key to unravelling a wiring problem should be in the part numbers, especially the suffix letter of the 'new' premium amp's part code. If the factory changed the plug wiring then the suffix letter will have changed too.

Of course, the 'new' amp could simply be faulty. However, I think they are generally reliable.


Chris


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## Widescreen111 (Sep 19, 2015)

Paximus said:


> Hi Leo,
> 
> The key to unravelling a wiring problem should be in the part numbers, especially the suffix letter of the 'new' premium amp's part code. If the factory changed the plug wiring then the suffix letter will have changed too.
> 
> ...


Thanks Chris !
I have option 9VJ (normal) 3D0035465C in my Phaeton from 2009/04 and it has RNS 810 head unit.
The "new" premium amp is 12-channel unit 3D0035456A, which is from 2003, an older generation from ZAB head unit time.

As I did not have any updated pin layout/or connection diagrams available for manufacturing year 2009 and onward. I did the rewiring according the info here at the forum.

Are these 2 amps even interchangable, CAN bus version is perhaps different and so might be the pin layout ?

I got a bad feeling that I purchased too "old" new unit :banghead:

//Leo


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

> I have option 9VJ (normal) 3D0035465C in my Phaeton from 2009/04 and it has RNS 810 head unit.


Hi Leo,

According to the parts lists, your normal audio amplifier 3D0 035 465C was fitted to RNS-810 cars for 2009 and later with s/n >10001. The upgraded Dynaudio amplifier for that same car would be 3D0 035 466B, with part having suffix D probably OK too.

That would imply some internal coding or cabling differences between these two and the previous ZAB-compatible generation which, as you say, applies to your 'new' 12-channel amp.

Chris


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## Melvivio (Feb 12, 2017)

I am currently retrofitting the premium audio to my car, including the two mid tones in the front doors. All in all quite a job if you want to do it proper.

I have not yet switched out the amplifier, but even with just the premium bass speakers installed, its a noticeable difference. Therefore if you want to upgrade with as little hassle as possible.. buy a set of quality bass speakers. Doesn't have to be VW/Blaupunkt.
Can be 2 or 4 ohms, doesn't really matter.

Having really compared standard and premium components, the standard bass-mid tone speaker from the 8-ch system is in my opinion better than the premium part, so I left it in. It has more range and deeper bass sound. Magnet is also heavier.
I also believe that the best speakers are the rear bass speakers of the premium system. They look and feel beefier than the front speakers although not by much. 

An interesting note, the J523 (bass) speakers are discontinued (info via dealer). If you order an old blaupunkt, you'll get the dynaudio part. 3D0 035 454H - bass, front. I mentioned the speaker is 8 ohm instead of 2 ohms, but the clerk was not aware of any compatibility issues. My guess is that it perhaps puts less strain on the amp, but that's it.
For sale on ebay there was a complete dynaudio set for a Tiguan. The speaker design looked more perfected and the bass speakers were redesigned. Again my guess is that Blaupunkt couldn't, or wasn't allowed to try again. 
Overall the blaupunkt speaker design is dated, prone to failures and for VW it was cheap. Either way the sound system was a bit of a scam for the customer. No way the components cost more than 500bucks. 

I'll report back when I'm finished. 
My set:
3D0 035 454D - bass, front, 2-ohms
3D0 035 453A - mid-range/bass, front instead of 3D0 035 453 - mid-range/bass, front
3D0 035 454A - bass, rear
3D0 035 466A - amplifier option 9VE (digital)

Edit: getting my facts straight.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Melvivio said:


> An interesting note, the J523 (bass) speakers are discontinued (info via dealer). If you order an old blaupunkt, you'll get the dynaudio part. 3D0 035 454H - bass, front. I mentioned the speaker is 8 ohm instead of 2 ohms, but the clerk was not aware of any compatibility issues. My guess is that it perhaps put a little more strain on the amp, but that's it.



You will get less volume out of the speakers if the amp is rated for 2 ohms and you use 8 ohm speakers. The good news is 8 ohm speakers will put_ less _strain on the amp. 

http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/What-is-speaker-impedance


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## Melvivio (Feb 12, 2017)

^^ Thank you! 

A conclusion was overdue and today I completed the wire swap required to connect the Premium amplifier. (3D0 035 466A)

Wiring of the front mid-speakers. 

















After the wiring has been pulled through A-pilar, cables can enter the interior via foam, where the original wiring loom exits through. I used this to route the wires inside. 
The wires continue backwards underneath the plastic covers and meet up, behind the backseat. 

To be honest, getting the bottom part of backseat back in, was really really though. 

Routing of the wires under the parcel shelf. 









The terminals are now only sold with yellow coloured wire attached. That positive, (red) becomes yellow is clear enough, however I wanted to keep the black (negative) black. I spray painted the wires to do so. 









Some soldering required to hook it up. 









As stated by others who did this conversion, swapping the wires is a delicate, painstaking, nerve-wrecking and quite difficult job. I used a tool bought from china, which I had to sand down a bit to fit in the connectors. After 10 wires I was confident it wouldn't snap on me.









As I forgot to take pictures, I stole some from this thread.

In the end, was it worth it...?
In a word: Yes. 

Even with my high frequency hearing loss and having become used to the sound of the premium bass speakers connected to the normal amplifier, the new premium amp adds dynamic qualities to the sound. 
It is fuller, more complete and it captures you more. It is clear that the Hz bands are different for this amp, so the speakers are driven differently. Clearer, less interference from other Hz regions.
Having at least 320kbps quality audio source is must.
The additional speakers in the door help with vocals & mid-range and shift the sound forward. It does fill a gap between the bottom part and top mounted tweeter. 
Do I benefit from having the 3D0 035 453A - mid-range/bass in the front? Not sure, but it does not sound weird. It sounds strong.
In my opinion, the DSP functions do not really add much. I selected "driver optimised" and perhaps "neutral" if I have company in the car. 
I didn't manage to swap the amplifiers without disconnecting the starter battery. 

I stand by my conclusion. If you have the standard audio and want a quick upgrade.. Just swap out the bass speakers. 
If you want to have a Phaeton feature, are into music and like a challenge.. this is a job for you.

Where it differs from new high end luxury vehicles is, that it isn't a flood of sound! It is no match when compared to, for example, Porsche's Burmester 3D High End 1455watt Surround Sound-System.
Perhaps the Dynaudio comes closer, but the older Blaupunkt system doesn't. 

Edit: Coherent story, spelling and additional information.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Thanks for posting that, great info! 

I must repair my ZAB's audio system...

Chris


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## Keheng1989 (Feb 21, 2019)

*My car is cc and I want to upgrade to phaeton premium stereo*

Request 3d0035466d amplifier pin wiring diagram. I am using this amplifier to connect your wire. It will make noise. My car is cc and I want to upgrade to phaeton premium stereo. Can you help me?Because I spent half a year to study it.：banghead：：banghead：：banghead：


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## Keheng1989 (Feb 21, 2019)

My car is cc. The host is rns-315 original 10 channel. I changed the 12 channel Phaeton amplifier 3D0035466D but the pin circuit will not be too difficult. Studyed for half a year but nothing. Requested Phaeton amplifier 3D0035466D pin wiring diagram. Thank you.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

See post #28 for the years for each of the 3D0035466 amplifiers.

If you click on the "Volkswagen Phaeton" button, it shows the years and the markets:

https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/part/3d0035466/

https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/part/3d0035466a/

https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/part/3d0035466b/

https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/part/3d0035466d/

The B and D amps are only RDW (ROW) according to 7zap and the year charts posted by Chris. 

I do not believe the 3D0035466 B and D amps are in the Bentley manual since it only covers the North American market. 

For those who are new to Phaetons, that's only the 2004 - 2006 model years. 

The 3D0035466 B and D amps may be pinned the same or may be pinned differently from North American amps. 

A ROW dealer may have wiring diagrams and pin outs for the 3D0035466 B and 3D0035466 D.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

In addition to Eric's helpful information, here are some diagrams for the Phaeton's amplifier ("Digital sound packet controller") J525.

There may be small changes between versions, since these diagrams are for the generic 8-channel and 12-channel system before it was re-sold as "Dynaudio", but I hope they get you started.

Chris











image (c) volkswagen









image (c) volkswagen









image (c) volkswagen









image (c) volkswagen


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

... and, of course, Josh's post #1 in this thread contains a lot more amplifier and plug wiring information. 

I'm sorry that I can't post exact information for the Dynaudio system, I don't have it. But I would expect it to be the same as the 12-channel wiring, since Dynaudio should only refer to the software algorithm in the amplifier and possibly some minor changes to the speaker specifications.

Chris


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

> My car is cc. The host is rns-315 original 10 channel. I changed the 12 channel Phaeton amplifier 3D0035466D but the pin circuit will not be too difficult. Studyed for half a year but nothing. Requested Phaeton amplifier 3D0035466D pin wiring diagram. Thank you.


Hi Keheng1989,

Thanks for your post and the Private Messages. Unfortunately I can't give you the exact pin diagram for the 3D0-034-66D amplifier because I don't have it. However, I believe that all the amplifiers for all the different Phaetons and Bentleys have a very similar plug pinout wiring diagram.

But you will have bigger problems. This is because the amplifier is controlled by CAN-bus commands generated in the Phaeton's ZAB or RNS810 central display. I doubt very much that your VW Passat CC will generate the correct CAN-bus commands required to operate the amplifier.

The diagrams above and in post #1 explain what is the function of each pin on the two plugs, for example _Left Front Bass Speaker_, or _CAN-bus+_, and beyond that I can't give you much more. If it helps, here are the plug pin descriptions for a 2012 Bentley Continental's amplifier, which is the latest one I can find. You can compare with the other 2 sets of information and see what is different (I suspect there is very little change).

23-pin plug
24-pin plug


Kind regards and good luck with your project,
Chris


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## Melvivio (Feb 12, 2017)

Very helpful pictures for the Phaeton enthusiast who wants to attempt the swap! :thumbup:
It was going through my mind.. how to find the error if I make a mistake. Having the colourscheme matched to the pins is gold for troubleshooting. 

I'm falling in love with the system. It is superior to the 8ch 190W. Bass is far deeper, even on lower volume. Very nice balanced sound. I had to adjust my seat position a bit, as with "driver oriented" it has a specific position where it sounds best. Good stuff.

Chris, the amplifier for Dynaudio is most likely exactly the same unit, only tailored to work with the RSN unit. As it was still made by Blaupunkt! Found an Dynaudio example on ebay and noticed the sticker. 
The speakers (bass and low mid range, possible high mid range and tweeter) differ in design from the Blaupunkts. The bass speakers are completely different, the low mid range is modified. Don't know of the differences high mid and tweeters. 
Come to think of it what I mentioned earlier. The bass speakers are 8ohm. If I were to hazard a guess, my bet would be that the bass section has more power. Now I'm just guessing.

Keheng1989, why go through the trouble.. Just buy upgraded amplifier for the Passat CC or CC. Starting with 3C8 035 456 B, C, D, etc. 
Yes, they look the same, maybe you'll get the pins right.. my guess is you'll still be in the woods.
The Passat CC & CC don't have the same amount of speakers as the Phaeton. 
The Passat CC & CC also have the bass and mid speakers integrated. Which might mean (I'm not sure) that the filter is on the speaker itself. The Phaeton amplifier will not provide you with good audio, because IT decides which Hz go to which speakers.. 
There were so many different sound packages customers could choose for the Passat CC & CC, all with a matching amplifier, so getting it right will be challenging. Which sound package do you have..? 
Either go completely aftermarket, or stick to how Volkswagen build the package. 
My 2 cts.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Melvivio said:


> Keheng1989, why go through the trouble.. Just buy upgraded amplifier for the Passat CC or CC. Starting with 3C8 035 456 B, C, D, etc.
> Yes, they look the same, maybe you'll get the pins right.. my guess is you'll still be in the woods.
> The Passat CC & CC don't have the same amount of speakers as the Phaeton.
> The Passat CC & CC also have the bass and mid speakers integrated. Which might mean (I'm not sure) that the filter is on the speaker itself. The Phaeton amplifier will not provide you with good audio, because IT decides which Hz go to which speakers..
> ...


I wholeheartedly agree. 

Keheng1989, 

I would ask for advice in the CC forum. 

You could also try asking your VW dealer. I am sure they would be more than happy to help you upgrade using CC parts. I know nothing about the CC but you might not even need to change the wiring. 

As Chris mentioned, the ZAB or RNS810 sends commands to the amplifier. 

The wiring diagrams mention "packets".

That's networking talk. Data packets. 

It would help if you had a background in network engineering. 

I can spell network engineering but that's about the extent of my knowledge. 

I know the ZAB controls literally everything that's user adjustable in a GP0 Phaeton. 

You can't just remove the stereo controller portion to make your Phaeton amp work.

Your amp was probably controlled by the Phaeton RNS810 and I know nothing about that. 

It may or may not be the same as other VW RNS810 systems.

I have no idea if a RNS315 can even "talk" to an amplifier that came from a Phaeton. 

You could put the Phaeton amp up for sale in the classifieds section or on eBay.

Good luck.

Eric


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## Keheng1989 (Feb 21, 2019)

I have completed the installation. I also found the correct circuit diagram. 
I now replaced the host of mib 680 
My question now is. How to choose audio digital package. For example, the amplifier rp-9vi. 9vj 9ve. I don't see 9vi options. Only 9ve. How to code.
View attachment 69634


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## Keheng1989 (Feb 21, 2019)




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