# How-To PCV Catch Can TSI, FSI and TFSI



## GMPCompetitionTT (Dec 7, 2014)

First you need a catch can you can choose all sorts of catch cans but I highly recommend a catch can with baffles and a filter. I chose the ADD W1 V1 Billet catch can. 










That is a sample picture you want the V1 that is a sealed unit.










Next thing is hose. You need 9/16th or 5/8th rubber hose. (I recommend the 5/8th for fitment reasons) put the 15mm fittings on the catch can.

Also optional Stainless steel L brackets 5x3x1/4 to hold your catch cans all pretty. (Hardware can be found at any Autoparts store)

Okay so step one take off your old breather hose. This part is $40 bucks new so have one on standby if you run into complications (doubt you will)

Cut a slit into each side where the line meets the joint like so.



















Step 2 Add the 5/8th Hose to the Clip joints like so and route them under the things that get in your way so it looks professional.





































Step 3 put the intake side line into the fitting labeled outlet and the valve cover line into the fitting labeled inlet and tighten up the supplied hose clamps. Now find a place to put your catch can. I put mine here with the L brackets listed above.





































Congratulations you are done. Stay tuned for more updates in this how to when the check valves get in and when I install the turbo side PCV catch can.

Pros: You retain the factory PCV capability. No increased crankcase pressure. You also filter out all the crap that can get into your intake manifold. Without voiding your warranty on a day 1 brand new car.

Cons: You still have a PCV. Not a deleted PCV. PCV can still fail down the road.


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## hightechrdn (Dec 9, 2011)

Does any of this apply to the TT-RS and 2.5L TFSI engine? I have worked on my car a bit, but don't recall seeing the same type of PCV hoses that a mk6 GTI has, for example. 

The Audi internal training PDF on the TT-RS describes the PCV system being built into the valve/camshaft cover, along with the variable number of cyclonic oil separators and such. I will have to find that PDF again and see if it includes a connection/flow of diagram...


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## GMPCompetitionTT (Dec 7, 2014)

Show me some pictures of your engine I can tell you what you need to do from there.


Edit: Yes this does work exactly the same way for 2.5TFSI engines. Your PCV is right above your TFSI letters and just below your coils and in between cylinder 3 and 4.


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## hightechrdn (Dec 9, 2011)

Thanks, I was just about to post the same info  As soon as I opened the hood, I saw the short hose from the valve/cam cover to the intake manifold. 

I was expecting it to be pre turbo like the mk6 GTI. That explains why the OEM intercooler had only a hint of oil when I swapped it for a FMIC from CTS. 

Edit: There is a PCV line on the backside of the valve/cam cover which goes to the turbo inlet. This line is used when the intake manifold is pressurized by the turbo. Both PCV lines have non return valves, to avoid pressure/gases flowing backwards and pressurizing the crankcase. 

Questions: Which PCV line actually would benefit from the oil catch can the most? As I mentioned, my OEM intercooler had a light coating of oil on the inside out the input and output hoses, but nothing like what I saw with my 2010 mk6 GTI. Though, it would be best to have no oil in the air going into the cylinders, as oil can cause knock and buildup of sludge on the valves, intake ports, etc., is the OEM PCV system on the 2.5L TFSI engine good enough? 

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## rtbrjason (Jun 14, 2015)

This is one of the first "mods" I'm looking into, but I think to do it correctly there should actually be 2 catch cans or a dual can setup involved. I've not been under the hood much yet as I just picked it up.


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## GMPCompetitionTT (Dec 7, 2014)

I have 2 catch cans and will be updating this further once I get them both installed just waiting for the brackets. Yes both the turbo side and intake side need catch cans. I have so much oil that comes out of my BOV it isn't even funny. Not to mention less than 12k miles was on my stock intercooler I had nearly a 1/2 quart of oil in it from the rear PCV


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## GMPCompetitionTT (Dec 7, 2014)

PCV Catch Can for Intake side properly mounted. Threw away the idea of putting down under the car so that it can be emptied easier from the top. 

Saturday I will be finishing the catch can for the turbo side. I can mount using that bracket catchs cans on the motor mount or on the intake mount since the carbonio removes the use for that giant hunk of plastic.





































Let me know what you think. I will be updating my original post to show the changes.


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## GMPCompetitionTT (Dec 7, 2014)

1 week in! Working great


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## GMPCompetitionTT (Dec 7, 2014)

Sneak peak complete PCV catch can system.


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## rtbrjason (Jun 14, 2015)

Nice.. Anxious to see what kind of oil your 2nd can collects..


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## hightechrdn (Dec 9, 2011)

A few comments...
Looking at the crankcase ventilation system, at least for the 2.5L TFSI, you shouldn't install a check valve on the side which connects to the turbo inlet pipe. Air flows in both directions through that side, depending upon whether the crankcase is under vacuum from the intake manifold side or not (IE partial throttle, out of boost). You could install a check valve on the intake manifold side though, since air should only go towards the intake. However, the camshaft cover already contains a check valve as part of the OEM system, so I don't see why a second check valve would be needed. (This assumes one doesn't modify the OEM PCV system contained within the cam cover. 

Radium Engineering makes a nice looking universal catch can, which includes options for a remote drain and a bracket to hold two catch cans next to each other.

If a catch can has a bottom threaded port or you can drill/tap one yourself, adding a remote drain is as easy as adding a barb fitting, some additional hose, and a valve to open/close the drain.


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## GMPCompetitionTT (Dec 7, 2014)

hightechrdn said:


> A few comments...
> Looking at the crankcase ventilation system, at least for the 2.5L TFSI, you shouldn't install a check valve on the side which connects to the turbo inlet pipe. Air flows in both directions through that side, depending upon whether the crankcase is under vacuum from the intake manifold side or not (IE partial throttle, out of boost). You could install a check valve on the intake manifold side though, since air should only go towards the intake. However, the camshaft cover already contains a check valve as part of the OEM system, so I don't see why a second check valve would be needed. (This assumes one doesn't modify the OEM PCV system contained within the cam cover.
> 
> Radium Engineering makes a nice looking universal catch can, which includes options for a remote drain and a bracket to hold two catch cans next to each other.
> ...


I have not installed the check valves as of yet to be sure I would need them or not. As far as not doing it for the turbo side you are half correct. At no point and time do you want any air pushing back into the engine and that is why I wanted to put an additional check valve on both sides to insure that only excess pressure leaves the engine but does not come back in. Now in the case of the rear being a breathing point yes you do not want to starve the engine of ventilation so only adding a check valve to the manifold side makes sense.

The turbo side is strictly an intake of air and does not see any additional atmospheric pressure versus the manifold side where you would thus needing the valve. You are correct that it may not be needed on the manifold side due to the fact that the PCV already does that job but you still have some turbulent pressure going into the catch can before the PCV registers pressure to shut off the valve.

What my thoughts were on the check valve is to remove that added pressure that goes through the can. Granted I have no clue what would happen to the now always open PCV since it will not close due to not receiving the pressure required to shut it.

Will it still vent oil into the line and into the catch can under boost or will it cause an unforeseen issue with the PCV system. It is really hard to say.

I will give this current set up a month on the vehicle before testing the Check Valves. 

As of right now this complete catch can setup for both sides has cost a little under 200 dollars.

I hope my answer has given you enough insight into my thoughts on this matter and if you do have any added advice or thoughts I would love to hear them. I am really just doing this how to because I think some of these catch can systems for our cars are over priced granted they are beautiful machined pieces I just know similar set ups cost far less for other vehicles.


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## hightechrdn (Dec 9, 2011)

Regarding multiple check valves on the intake manifold line/side:
They could be made to work, but could also result in unexpected behavior depending upon whether each valve was normally open or closed with no flow/pressure delta, the pressure/flow required for each valve to close, the response time of each valve, etc. Without knowing the specific function and characteristics of both valves, then creating a matrix of open/closed states based on all of the different pressure scenarios, you won't really know how the valves are most likely to interact. 

At the end of the day, as long as the catch can selected is designed to handle the max boost pressure, I don't believe there is a need for the second check valve. I don't recall seeing such dual check valve setups with aftermarket kits. As long as large amounts of oil/water/gas aren't pushed back from the catch can towards the engine, I don't see any downside of the catch can being pressurized while the engine is in boost. I would rather keep the setup as simple as possible and not risk creating issues from the dual check valves not opening/closing under transient conditions. 

Once the OEM check valve sees higher pressure on the intake side than the engine side, it should close quickly, limiting the amount of air which actually flows back through the catch can. However, I am definitely interested in reading the results of your experiment. Instead of debating opinion and theories, you can look for evidence that the fluid caught in the catch can is being pushed back out towards the engine. If it is, then adding a second check valve should be simple enough. 

I do appreciate your posts... There isn't enough DIY in the TT-RS scene. We have limited and in many cases overpriced aftermarket solutions. The situation is improving and will hopefully continue to do so with the 2.5L TFSI engine being used in the European RS3 hatch and new, improved versions of the 2.5L due out in the near future. Hopefully, it will also bring more people into the scene who will work out and share more DIY improvements/modifications. 

Let us know how those catch cans work out! I am now planning a DIY setup using the dual catch can setup from Radium Engineering


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## GMPCompetitionTT (Dec 7, 2014)

hightechrdn said:


> Regarding multiple check valves on the intake manifold line/side:
> They could be made to work, but could also result in unexpected behavior depending upon whether each valve was normally open or closed with no flow/pressure delta, the pressure/flow required for each valve to close, the response time of each valve, etc. Without knowing the specific function and characteristics of both valves, then creating a matrix of open/closed states based on all of the different pressure scenarios, you won't really know how the valves are most likely to interact.
> 
> At the end of the day, as long as the catch can selected is designed to handle the max boost pressure, I don't believe there is a need for the second check valve. I don't recall seeing such dual check valve setups with aftermarket kits. As long as large amounts of oil/water/gas aren't pushed back from the catch can towards the engine, I don't see any downside of the catch can being pressurized while the engine is in boost. I would rather keep the setup as simple as possible and not risk creating issues from the dual check valves not opening/closing under transient conditions.
> ...


Agreed 100% with you. I would rather see before and after results before I change up the design. 

If BlackBeautty ever gets his butt over to my shop to make a DIY for his TTRS 

Also as an update. The vehicle does not show signs of oil moving into the intake side at all at this point so that can is functioning perfect.

On the turbo side I fear that I have yet to see any oil go into the line going back to the turbo either but at the same time the catch can is completely dry. So I am debating wether or not the second can is even in the slightest worth doing. No clue at this point. Gotta keep going and see what happens.


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## GMPCompetitionTT (Dec 7, 2014)

Update

The catch can is working wonderfully. No oil is making it to my intake manifold. The line is completely dry and the can filling up nicely.

Still no oil in the rear can which to be expected because it would only be noticed under many full throttle runs. So after a track day I will examine the lines running to the catch can to confirm if they have any oil going into them.


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## ZPrime (Mar 7, 2006)

*FV-QR*

I wish there was some way to add additional fuel injection in the intake (before the cylinders) to help prevent sludging / varnish that comes with the FSI / direct injection.


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## GMPCompetitionTT (Dec 7, 2014)

ZPrime said:


> I wish there was some way to add additional fuel injection in the intake (before the cylinders) to help prevent sludging / varnish that comes with the FSI / direct injection.


I fear the only way to prevent that is a PCV set up like this as soon as you buy the car or a PCV Delete. But again you would have to install it ASAP. I did this mod at 25k. Pretty sure I was too late to prevent some accumulation.


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## ZPrime (Mar 7, 2006)

I'm not sure how a PCV catch will help that at all... From what I understand most of the build up comes because there is no fuel to help clean things off, not because PCV allows anything more than usual to build up.

I've heard that watermeth guys can keep things clean because of that injection...


- [thumbed from a phone] -


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## JohnLZ7W (Nov 23, 2003)

GMPCompetitionTT said:


> I fear the only way to prevent that is a PCV set up like this as soon as you buy the car or a PCV Delete. But again you would have to install it ASAP. I did this mod at 25k. Pretty sure I was too late to prevent some accumulation.


It's been demonstrated multiple times that a catch can does not help with the carbon build-up inherent in direct injection engines. The bulk of that build-up is from oil seeping past the valve stem seals. The only solution is adding port fuel injection (like Audi has done in the newest FSI engines) or using water-meth injection to effectively steam clean the valves.


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## GMPCompetitionTT (Dec 7, 2014)

JohnLZ7W said:


> It's been demonstrated multiple times that a catch can does not help with the carbon build-up inherent in direct injection engines. The bulk of that build-up is from oil seeping past the valve stem seals. The only solution is adding port fuel injection (like Audi has done in the newest FSI engines) or using water-meth injection to effectively steam clean the valves.


With that being said I am sure that this mod only helps considering you can empty a pint jar once a month of the gas oil mix that leaves your engine.

Doesn't hurt to slow the process down.


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## GMPCompetitionTT (Dec 7, 2014)

Huge update!

Today after emptying my main catch can religiously every week I decided to pull my rear catch can off and to my surprise I have Oil, not blow by, oil. The same oil that comes out of my BOV and inside my intercooler piping.

I checked my piping yesterday and they are dry so I knew no oil was entering my intercooler piping anymore but I had no clue my rear catch can was behind it.

It's official these things work great and at a fraction of the cost.

I will most likely make a bunch of premade kits and sell them for those who do not want the hassle of tracking down all the necessary components.










The can with pure oil.









The can with blow by oil gas mix.









I couldn't be happier with the results.

Let me know if you have an interest in purchasing any catch can kits or any questions on how to install them. I have detailed pictures and instructions.

Single catch can kits will start at $199. That will include pre connected PCV bards for plug and play assembly. Brackets, catch cans and 5/8ths tubing and everything else you may need for installation.


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## GMPCompetitionTT (Dec 7, 2014)

Sold a couple of kits so far. My father is having great results with his TTRS.

Completely worth doing and cheaper than every other kit on the market.


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## GMPCompetitionTT (Dec 7, 2014)

Stay tuned for some updates. Still running the dual setup with excellent results making some tweeks to the look and reliability of the design. 

So far my boost gauge filter is still clean even though it is run right off the boost tap. The BOV spacer no longer spits oil everywhere and the intercooler piping is oil free.

Ran a video scope into my intake to the valves, it was extremely clean almost too clean to my surprise. I guess the daily WOTs this car gets put through combined with the catch cans help.

If I can get a clear enough picture off the video scope I will post it.


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## hightechrdn (Dec 9, 2011)

Please PM me pricing for a dual catch can setup. What changes will you be making? 

I will have to consider placement of the catch cans... I have the 034 Motorsports intake kit on order, so I will have to find an alternative spot for at least one of the cans. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk


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## GMPCompetitionTT (Dec 7, 2014)

One can is easily mounted on the passenger motor mount the other can be mounted in the open space.

I have 10an stainless steel linea coming in to change out the heater hoses. The stainless lines are designed for gas and oil and wont collapse over time. 10 feet of it is around $50. Going to look as good as it is reliable under the hood.


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## Biler123 (Sep 2, 2017)

*Audi TT RS Catch cans*

I know it's been a long time since you made this thread. I wonder if you have the opportunity to make a complete kit for TT RS? A kit with 2 tanks and all hoses / couplings so it becomes Bolt-on On TT RS.


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## Biler123 (Sep 2, 2017)

*Catch cans TT RS*



GMPCompetitionTT said:


> One can is easily mounted on the passenger motor mount the other can be mounted in the open space.
> 
> I have 10an stainless steel linea coming in to change out the heater hoses. The stainless lines are designed for gas and oil and wont collapse over time. 10 feet of it is around $50. Going to look as good as it is reliable under the hood.


I know it's been a long time since you made this thread. I wonder if you have the opportunity to make a complete kit for TT RS? A kit with 2 tanks and all hoses / couplings so it becomes Bolt-on On TT RS.


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## Biler123 (Sep 2, 2017)

*Audi TT RS Cathc-can*



Biler123 said:


> I know it's been a long time since you made this thread. I wonder if you have the opportunity to make a complete kit for TT RS? A kit with 2 tanks and all hoses / couplings so it becomes Bolt-on On TT RS.


If you still have the opportunity to make a complete kit for TT RS, i want to buy a kit from you.
It was sad to hear about your engine, which was APR tuned. I even intended to use APR, but now it will be another company


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## Biler123 (Sep 2, 2017)

*Thank you very much for a very good description of how to install Catch can on the intake side.*

Thank you very much for a very good description of how to install Catch can on the intake side, I will do the same on my TT RS.
I am new here on the forum and I live in Norway. Here in Norway there are not many TT RS. So there is no knowledge about installing the catch can.
You described that there are two catcancies. One for the Turbo side too.
I also wish to mount two catch cans. One that cleans the turbo side as well. My problem is that I have very little knowledge of catch can install. But I understood the capture of catch can on the intake page, thanks to your good explanation. Is it rude of me to ask if you can explain how to install catch can on the turbo side on TT RS? I have asked a car workshop to mount a catch can on the turbo side, but nobody wants to do that job so I think I have to do it myself. I had been very happy if you or someone here on the forum
could help me explain how to install catch can on turbo side on TT RS. Where should I mount the hose that goes from the catch can?
I think there are many who want to know how instal catch can on the turbo side. I have searched online about install catch cans on TT RS, I find no explanation. A big thank you to all that describes install catch can on the turbo side. This thread describes very well how to install on the intake.


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## GMPCompetitionTT (Dec 7, 2014)

I never did have a chance to do it on an Audi TTRS but typically the install is very similar. The turbo side will require you to remove the intake hose. Once you do so you should be able to see the rear vent hose that routes from valve cover to turbo. That is where you tap into it. As far as the front side on the intake goes for the RS it is very very easy. UPR makes an awesome catch can kit. I posted the link below. Order 2 of them. You may still need to get 16mm provent hose which is available on ebay aswell.

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/290936852709

Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk


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## Fasdude (May 24, 2011)

I created a catch can kit with a mishmash of high quality parts (ECS Tuning catch can, CTS Turbo Valve Cover Breather Adapter, Summit Racing high pressure stainless steel lines and 10AN fittings. (It ended up costing me about $400 CND.) I did it based on great reviews and the knowledge that it would greatly benefit the health of my engine. What I hadn't noticed was that none of those reviews were from people in areas that see snow or ice during the year. The stuff coming out of my engine must've had a fair bit of humiditycondensation because my lines froze and blocked up with dirty looking ice. My car ran like **** until I removed the catch can. As it's fairly easy to install and take out, I will put it back on when we get back to non-freezing temperatures because it really was doing it's job well (before freezing temps) and catching about 2-3 oz of blowby oil/crème colored sludge each month. I just feel that people should be informed about this "annoyance".

On another note, I have a 2010 TTS and my setup used the CTS Turbo Valve Cover Breather Adapter (http://www.ctsturbo.com/cart/products/CTS_Turbo_Valve_Cover_Breather_Adapter_2_0T_FSI-3545-581.html), with both of my lines going from it to the Catch Can. I also used a blockoff to the lower PCV hose connection point. While I can see that the top of your engine looks a little different than mine, your kit however has the Catch Can connecting to that lower PCV outlet that I had blocked off. What is the consequence to doing it that way compared to my setup? Which is better? ... Or are they equal in their approach because your engine is slightly different than mine?


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## Nick4554 (Jul 7, 2013)

Ik I'm reviving an old post here but wasn't sure where to find the information i am looking for. How did you run the turbo side catch can? I have an 07 mk5 gti so fsi engine and I'm just curious if it's the line running off of the far end that everyone keeps connected on pcv deletes. If so would I use the line coming off that and run the catch can that way similar to how it's done on the intake side. thank you!


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## Atlas Delmar (Nov 13, 2019)

I wouldn't delete the oe air oil separator (PCV). There's absolutely no aftermarket kit that works better than the OE. I've spent time and money to find out the hard way.

Unlike the OP, I chose not to run a can on the IM as the majority of the blowby is just dirty condensation. The heavy oil drips back into the engine through the OE design. The issue I addressed was on the turbo side. If the turbo sucks enough air it might pull some extra oily blowby, henceforth why I chose to add my setup on that side.

Here's my setup.


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## Nick4554 (Jul 7, 2013)

Atlas Delmar said:


> I wouldn't delete the oe air oil separator (PCV). There's absolutely no aftermarket kit that works better than the OE. I've spent time and money to find out the hard way.
> 
> Unlike the OP, I chose not to run a can on the IM as the majority of the blowby is just dirty condensation. The heavy oil drips back into the engine through the OE design. The issue I addressed was on the turbo side. If the turbo sucks enough air it might pull some extra oily blowby, henceforth why I chose to add my setup on that side.
> 
> ...


Completely agree. I was going to run a delete and looking into it and just doesn't look good. So my motor is slightly different as you are ea888 (TFSI) 
I'm the older FSI bpy engine. This is my fsi setup. The yellow runs into the intake while blue runs to turbo I assume. Do u know if I am correct on that?


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## Atlas Delmar (Nov 13, 2019)

Nick4554 said:


> Completely agree. I was going to run a delete and looking into it and just doesn't look good. So my motor is slightly different as you are ea888 (TFSI)
> I'm the older FSI bpy engine. This is my fsi setup. The yellow runs into the intake while blue runs to turbo I assume. Do u know if I am correct on that?
> View attachment 220948


I'm not sure, but I would recommend just following the lines and deconstruct afterwards. Setting up a can in between the two points isn't hard, the hard part is the ability to service said can, (ie checking it, cleaning it if it's needed, etc)

Let me know how it goes.


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