# 2009 Routan w/99k miles



## rick chi-town (Jun 14, 2010)

Hey all, long time no post, as I haven't had a VW in a number of years... as the title says, I am in the process of buying a 2009 Routan, with just under 100k miles. Perhaps could have searched, but as much wanted to say hi! And I am well aware of this vehicles pedigree, and the Chrysler issues with brakes, and transmissions. Any other words of wisdom, or things to look out for? I honestly don't know this one, does this vehicle have a timing chain/belt to be changed at 100k? What else?? thanks fellas! Rick


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## Zambee500 (Jun 23, 2011)

Maintenance schedule can be found at this link. You have to scroll down about 3/4 of the way b/c the Routan is listed separately from all the other VWs.

https://wiki.bentleypublishers.com/...-+2009+-+Jetta,+Jetta+SportWagen,+Rabbit,+GTI 

Which Routan model are you looking at? 

The S and SE have the 3.8L pushrod engine. No timing belt. Replace ignition cables on 3.8L at 102k miles. The 3.8L engine has a known issue on _some_ of the engines for excessive oil consumption, with sudden onset. As in no oil consumption at all and then when it starts you lose like 2+ qts before the next oil change. It usually starts on affected engines way before 100k miles, so just be on lookout for it if you get this motor. Chrysler has some absurd standard for "normal oil consumption" of something like 1 qt per 1000 miles, which is a way for them to deny warranty work.

The SEL and SEL Premium have the 4.0L engine with a timing belt with 102k mile interval. Replace spark plugs.

Flush/replace coolant and R&R water pump on both engines at 102k miles. 

The accessory belt and ATF/transmission filter aren't called for until 120k miles. Personal opinion, I don't think any ATF is really designed to go that long and I'd at least drain/refill ATF every 60k miles (if not 40k).

PCV valves are known issue. Cheap part (only use genuine Mopar PCV valve though), so good time to do it when the engine is pulled apart.

The heater hose assembly is a known leak spot for coolant. The coolant evaporates at that location, so you have to look for splatter. The OEM part is expensive, but there are some after-market parts now made by Gates and sold under multiple brands that is much cheaper. You can read more here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5694882-Heater-Hose-Assembly-Leak.

The EGR can be an issue, especially if the heater hose has leaked coolant on it. Not very expensive as far as EGRs go.


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## rick chi-town (Jun 14, 2010)

thanks Zambee!! Very helpful info! I copied and pasted, and saved on my phone... She's off to the dealership today for a check-up, and I'll inquire about all. I'm guessing I'll have most of what you suggest by an independent shop, but going to have the dealership read it, and just give me an overview of everything that's been done, and still needs to be done.
Rick


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## Zambee500 (Jun 23, 2011)

There are a few recalls that should have been performed. 

One involved the sliding door tracks for the power sliding doors. More of an adjustment than a recall/replacement, as I recall. 

And the WIN (wireless ignition node) module - the slot where you put the key fob into in order to start the engine. That will come with two new key fobs too.


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## rick chi-town (Jun 14, 2010)

*a pic of the bad ride...*


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## der58sc (Feb 4, 2010)

Zambee500 said:


> The S and SE have the 3.8L pushrod engine. No timing belt.


Are you serious? No timing belt or chain? I have a 09 SE that is about 500 miles away from 100,000 miles. I was getting my Jetta ready for the wife to drive so I can change the timing belt and many other things that are needed according to the dealer. If this is not needed then I am stoked!


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## georgef61 (May 16, 2011)

der58sc said:


> Are you serious? *No timing belt or chain?* I have a 09 SE that is about 500 miles away from 100,000 miles. I was getting my Jetta ready for the wife to drive so I can change the timing belt and many other things that are needed according to the dealer. If this is not needed then I am stoked!


The 3.8L has a timing chain but there is no service interval for it, the chain should last the life of the engine. 

I have an '01 Dodge Caravan with the 3.8L with 244,000 miles on the original timing chain and know of vehicles with over 350,000 miles on the original chain.


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## Chedman13 (May 30, 2012)

VW will recommend a timing chain at 100k, probably around $500-$1000 including labor.

Transmission can last a 250k miles or 50k miles. Most seem fine, but there are a few out there with replacements. $5,000 including labor.


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## Zambee500 (Jun 23, 2011)

Chedman13 said:


> VW will recommend a timing chain at 100k, probably around $500-$1000 including labor.


VW may, but Chrysler and Bentley don't. A timing belt/water pump job is right at $1k, and I have a hard time believing a timing chain could possibly be any less than a timing belt to replace. 

But Chedman's comment leads to a good idea... don't go to a VW dealership. Find someone who knows Mopar and get it done right, and only if/when necessary.


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## Chedman13 (May 30, 2012)

I figured VW copied the dodge manual for service, guess not!

I had my transmission replaced by VW and they had no idea what to do with the mopar warranty registration card


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## Zambee500 (Jun 23, 2011)

Chedman13 said:


> I had my transmission replaced by VW and they had no idea what to do with the mopar warranty registration card


Same thing with me. The service "advisor" insisted that only the standard VW dealership 12mo/12k miles warranty applied. But the service tech left the Mopar warranty card on the passenger seat showing the 36mo/100k mile warranty. I read it closely and I think there could be arguments made either way about whether Mopar covers it. Labor doubtful b/c it says only Dodge/Chrysler/Ram/Fiat dealership must install it to cover labor, and if installed by indie shop only parts are covered. The parts warranty language is wishy-washy.... it sort of says same thing, and there is no Chryco badge anywhere on the Routan. *But* it is stamped in the driver's side door frame that it is a Chrsyler LLC motor vehicle. Hope never have to challenge it to find out though.


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## Chedman13 (May 30, 2012)

I no longer drive with ECON mode on - I am hoping that fixes it.

All the rough shifts most likely did the damage to the transmission. Luckily, covered within warranty right before it was going to expire.


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## trbochrg (Dec 1, 2004)

Chedman13 said:


> I no longer drive with ECON mode on - I am hoping that fixes it.
> 
> All the rough shifts most likely did the damage to the transmission. Luckily, covered within warranty right before it was going to expire.



I only used the ECON mode a few times and noticed it seemed to "clunk" a lot in that mode. Stopped using it and it was much better. I can't imagine i was getting much better gas mileage using it...certainly not enough to warrant the cost of a transmission replacement.


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## Chedman13 (May 30, 2012)

trbochrg said:


> I only used the ECON mode a few times and noticed it seemed to "clunk" a lot in that mode. Stopped using it and it was much better. I can't imagine i was getting much better gas mileage using it...certainly not enough to warrant the cost of a transmission replacement.


1 MPG difference city/highway combined (savings) from when I did a short run of the ECON mode.

It drops gears and puts way too much stress on the transmission. 

Also, it drops the idle RPM at park or standstill - sometimes too much and stalls the engine!

Quite possibly the worst OEM ECU mapping of shift points and tuning I have seen.


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## georgef61 (May 16, 2011)

Chedman13 said:


> VW will recommend a timing chain at 100k, probably around $500-$1000 including labor.





Chedman13 said:


> I figured VW copied the dodge manual for service, guess not!


I'm sure the VW manual recommends changing the timing *belt* in the 4.0L, but does the VW manual actually recommend changing the timing *chain* in the 3.8L?


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## rick chi-town (Jun 14, 2010)

georgef61 said:


> I'm sure the VW manual recommends changing the timing *belt* in the 4.0L, but does the VW manual actually recommend changing the timing *chain* in the 3.8L?


I think I can answer that, as since I posted my original hello, I have had the car in to my VW dealer for all it's "shots." In the 3.8, at 102k miles they recommended plugs and wires. and honestly the tech said the wires were even overkill. I did that service, and guess what? It ran perfectly when I took it in, it ran perfectly when I got it out. Nothing about changing a timing belt, or chain, and I did ask. So far, so good. Great car so far, she just made it to Ft. Myers Florida, effortlessly.


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## routan2010se (Jun 17, 2013)

I have one of the higher mileage ones here, a 2010 SE.

I have 130k, just replaced the front struts, with aftermarket Monroes. Rear were replaced with monroe self-leveling. We also just made a trip from Boston to Orlando a month or so ago, no problems.

Other than the 2nd heater hose going around 105k, I have not had a tow situation yet.

I did get a Traction control light and the transmision went into limp mode. I pulled the codes, and it said throttle body failed a test. Car would not leave limp until I cleared the codes with a bluetooth dongle to odbII and torque app on my android.

I googled for other chryslers cars with the code, and it appears that is common for the E-throttle bodies to sh*t the bed, the butterfly valve gets stuck, and the gears can strip on the motor. Mine looked and moved OK. Since I as just about to go for the long trip, I went to order one and was told all sold out in North America, and would have to wait to ship form Germany. I Figured not surprised as VW is clearing out Routan parts while they can.

I cross referenced the Mopar part, same deal, all sold out in the WHOLE USA and would have to be special ordered. So I ordered the one in Germany, got the part after 6 weeks and knock on wood, no problems after 3,000 miles, so it is an expensive spare for now, as you kinda need it to keep the car running.

It was a Bosch Part, made in Germany


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## sladethesleeper (Oct 28, 2011)

Just to refresh the difference of the chain and the belt.

They recommend a timing belt replacement because on a OHC engine, if the belt breaks, there is a good chance the engine will be permanently damaged and require significant repair. They've done the testing and found that at x miles, 99.99% of belts will still be intact, so they say replace it then. This is all due to OHC engines having interference valve trains, meaning if the timing is off (like belt breaking) the pistons will slam into the valves and do serious damage to everything.

With a pushrod engine, and timing chains, most factory set ups do not have interfering valve trains, so if the chain breaks, all that happens is you are dead on the side of the road, but once you replace the chain the engine will be fine.

That reminds me...time for some maintenance.

And yes, dump using ECO mode. It's garbage that will do more damage than good. has no impact on the highway mileage, and will likely get you run over in the city. By that time it downshifts to acceleration, it'll shift and then rev the engine to 4k+. No thank you.


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