# MKVI GTI Kicker L5 Sub, Kicker DX 250.1 Amp and Fierce Line Out Converter Installed



## Marble (Nov 20, 2002)

I only took pics of the sub cabinet being built, however I installed the LOC, amp wiring, amp and sub.



If you have any questions about my installation of the LOC, amp wiring, or the design and build of the cabinet, just let me know.

Clicking on the pic will take you to my flickr set for this install. There is a description of the set and each photo has a caption to help.

Any feedback/ criticism will be taken.

Enjoy.

:thumbup:


----------



## NFrazier (Jul 22, 2006)

Install looks good. Kind feel like you're underpowering that woofer though...


----------



## Marble (Nov 20, 2002)

NFrazier said:


> Install looks good. Kind feel like you're underpowering that woofer though...


How so?

The sub's power handling is rated at 300W, and I felt that the DX 500.1 would have over powered it by far. Especially considering that my DX 250.1 is rated 250 x 1 RMS however tested to 273 watts RMS.


----------



## NFrazier (Jul 22, 2006)

Marble said:


> How so?
> 
> The sub's power handling is rated at 300W, and I felt that the DX 500.1 would have over powered it by far. Especially considering that my DX 250.1 is rated 250 x 1 RMS however tested to 273 watts RMS.


Oh, what is it; an 8"? Sorry I thought it was a 10."


----------



## Marble (Nov 20, 2002)

NFrazier said:


> Oh, what is it; an 8"? Sorry I thought it was a 10."


:thumbup:


----------



## IcyTurtle (Jul 6, 2011)

how does it sound? I have been considering putting a close to this same system setup in my car.


----------



## Marble (Nov 20, 2002)

IcyTurtle said:


> how does it sound? I have been considering putting a close to this same system setup in my car.


It sounds great! Nobody believes it's an 8" square all by itself, then I open the hatch. You can crank the bass if that's your style, or it adds a really nice fill to the stock setup.

If you're into bass, this works, it vibrates your voice, seriously.

:thumbup:


----------



## IcyTurtle (Jul 6, 2011)

cool! :thumbup: 

Seems pretty close to what I want which is to add additional bass to my stock setup, and to be able to crank it up when its time to show off.



How do you think a Kicker ZX300 and a 8" Kicker L5 Solo Baric running at 2 Ohms would compare to the setup that you have?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/230659519613?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/320743215603?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


----------



## Marble (Nov 20, 2002)

IcyTurtle said:


> cool! :thumbup:
> 
> Seems pretty close to what I want which is to add additional bass to my stock setup, and to be able to crank it up when its time to show off.
> 
> ...


Essentially you would be overpowering the L5 as it is rated 300 watts RMS, best to stay within the parameters of what Kicker has provided, but if you will be listening at "normal" levels most of the time, that amp will be fine. Kicker amps push more than they are rated and come with a test certificate proving so. My 250.1 actually provides 273 watts RMS.

The main issue you will run into is that the L5 you posted is a DVC 2 ohm, both coils have to be wired, so you will either end up with a 1 ohm load or 4 ohm load, depending on how you wire it. That amp at 4 ohm is rated 150x1 RMS and is not capable of a 1 ohm load.

So, you could run that amp at 4 ohm and get 150 watts RMS, I suggest you purchase an L5 DVC 4 ohm though so you can use the amps full power (300 watts RMS).

Make sure to build your enclosure per Kicker specs to get the best results (volume/ port design). If you do a ported design, making the port longer will provide lower tuning of the enclosure, but the recommended specs will tune the box to 40hz which is normal and allows the sub to remain super efficient and provide low bass and tight bass as well.

:thumbup:


----------



## IcyTurtle (Jul 6, 2011)

Marble said:


> Essentially you would be overpowering the L5 as it is rated 300 watts RMS, best to stay within the parameters of what Kicker has provided, but if you will be listening at "normal" levels most of the time, that amp will be fine. Kicker amps push more than they are rated and come with a test certificate proving so. My 250.1 actually provides 273 watts RMS.
> 
> The main issue you will run into is that the L5 you posted is a DVC 2 ohm, both coils have to be wired, so you will either end up with a 1 ohm load or 4 ohm load, depending on how you wire it. That amp at 4 ohm is rated 150x1 RMS and is not capable of a 1 ohm load.
> 
> ...


Ok so correct me if im wrong just trying to get a good to buy list in order.

Get a 8" L5 4ohms and run a + and - to amp and run another wire connecting the two coils to make it run at 2ohms? So I can use the same amp I have listed above?


----------



## Marble (Nov 20, 2002)

IcyTurtle said:


> Ok so correct me if im wrong just trying to get a good to buy list in order.
> 
> Get a 8" L5 4ohms and run a + and - to amp and run another wire connecting the two coils to make it run at 2ohms? So I can use the same amp I have listed above?


Positive from amp to 1st voice coil positive terminal post.
Negative from amp to 1st voice coil negative terminal post.
Jumper from 1st voice coil positive terminal post to 2nd voice coil positive terminal post.
Jumper from 1st voice coil negative terminal post to 2nd voice coil negative terminal post.

This will provide a 2ohm load to the amp from your single 8" Dual Voice Coil (DVC) 4ohm and allow you to run the amp you posted above.

:thumbup:


----------



## IcyTurtle (Jul 6, 2011)

Awesome, you've help me complete my project list! This ones on me :beer:


----------



## Marble (Nov 20, 2002)

IcyTurtle said:


> Awesome, you've help me complete my project list! This ones on me :beer:


Well after doing my install and having fun creating the enclosure, I'm going to do another. I have a MKV GLI and can do a test fit into it and provide pics if you're interested in this setup for yours. Let me know and we can figure out a good price shipped to you.

Price would include enclosure, amp, sub and amp wiring kit (8 gauge power, 8 gauge ground, remote wire with Add-a-Fuse, and RCAs). Everything is Kicker, except the Add-a-Fuse.

:thumbup:


----------



## IcyTurtle (Jul 6, 2011)

Sweet! Yea if you can shoot me a price and hopefully shipping isn't outrageous I could be very interested, I'm in Ohio 43055 zip for future reference


----------



## Marble (Nov 20, 2002)

IcyTurtle said:


> Sweet! Yea if you can shoot me a price and hopefully shipping isn't outrageous I could be very interested, I'm in Ohio 43055 zip for future reference


My apologies for the late response, left for Vegas shortly after my post on Friday and got back this morning.

Sent you a PM.

:thumbup:


----------



## maxedtdi (Aug 21, 2011)

Does you car have dynaaudio and if not... where did you wire the LOC into?

Also where did you hook the - amp wire to?


----------



## Marble (Nov 20, 2002)

maxedtdi said:


> Does you car have dynaaudio and if not... where did you wire the LOC into?


No, I tapped into the rear speaker outs behind the head unit.




maxedtdi said:


> Also where did you hook the - amp wire to?


Assuming you mean the Remote wire, I used an Add-A-Fuse and used location 41, Rear Window Wiper.

:thumbup:


----------



## maxedtdi (Aug 21, 2011)

Marble said:


> No, I tapped into the rear speaker outs behind the head unit.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


:thumbup:

How come you didn't use the rear cig lighter?

And is there a reason you didn't tap into the speakers in the back as opposed to pulling the wire all the way through to the headunit?


----------



## Marble (Nov 20, 2002)

maxedtdi said:


> :thumbup:
> 
> How come you didn't use the rear cig lighter?


I wouldn't consider that part of a clean install, which to me is what counts. Aside from the fact that I didn't have to remove any panels from the rear. I had thought about doing this before, but just doesn't seem "legit." An Add-A-Fuse is much cleaner in my opinion and remains accessible if the fuse were to ever blow.



maxedtdi said:


> And is there a reason you didn't tap into the speakers in the back as opposed to pulling the wire all the way through to the headunit?


I didn't tap into the rear speakers, because removing the head unit is simple, and goes back to having a clean install. It also would have meant that I would have to pull the passenger side panels and hunt for wires. Tapping the wires at the pin location is much simpler and allows the LOC to be mounted behind the fuse panel for easy access when tuning to the head unit.

:thumbup:


----------



## nasty_VW_habit (Oct 13, 1999)

LOC :screwy: 

I'm approaching 700 miles on my car and it needs bass.... 

just starting research now


----------



## NFrazier (Jul 22, 2006)

nasty_VW_habit said:


> LOC :screwy:
> 
> I'm approaching 700 miles on my car and it needs bass....
> 
> just starting research now


 http://soundmancaraudio.com/articles/27/adding-an-amplifier-subwoofer-to-a-factory-radio


----------



## Marble (Nov 20, 2002)

:thumbup:


----------

