# 1984 rabbit 1.8jh about to lose my mind



## Noodleboy (Mar 2, 2006)

I have a 1984 rabbit convertible that I bought for a hefty price. A few months after ownership I broke a lifter in the motor. Prior to doing that though I replaced the in-tank pump, the main pump, and a few lines. So after the lifter broke I replaced the motor with a used motor, I have not been able to get the thing running again. When replacing the motor I went ahead and replaced all the seals excluding the headgasket. I have checked and confirmed timing several times, checked compression with a reading of 130 across the board. Replaced the distributor, ignition harness, and the fuel distubutor unit/airbox in that order. Since replacement of the fuel dizzy I was able to get it started; it would idle fine unless I hit the throttle it will rev up and do what it is supposed to until I let go of the throttle it just shuts off and then wont hold idle again when restarted. I asked a local for some help and he sent me a vacuum diagram and turns out I was missing some lines he seemed to think were important so I ran new vacuum lines and now it just starts and dies. I am about to lose my mind on this thing so any input or suggestions would be much appreciated. Any nova locals are more than welcome to lend a hand and I could compensate with food drinks and or cash if possible.


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## erty67 (Feb 23, 2010)

without knowing a lot, I would say it sounds like a vac leak to me. I had the same exact issue once and a line had come off the intake. Worth double checking.


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## Noodleboy (Mar 2, 2006)

Okay so went over all the vacuum lines and they are ran according to the diagram on cabbyinfo. Tonight while cranking it was seeming like it was firing against itself/hydro locking. I have not replaced the injector seals but have heard a great deal about them leaking. I am just getting very fed up with this car/motor. I have also not yet checked the fuel pressure and don't have a pressure tester for it. Here are some pictures for more info:


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## Glegor (Mar 31, 2008)

are you positive you dont have the timing 180* off?

and yea, i agree, sounds like vacuum leaks..


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## Noodleboy (Mar 2, 2006)

Glegor said:


> are you positive you dont have the timing 180* off?
> 
> and yea, i agree, sounds like vacuum leaks..


Well even with vacuum leaks it should still start right?? And if all the marks line up correctly how can timing be 180 out??


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## Noodleboy (Mar 2, 2006)

Remember in my original post it would start and idle so long as I didnt touch the throttle.


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## rabbitnothopper (Oct 19, 2009)

check ignition
does it sound like it wants to start?

use the BIG ASS SCREWDRIVER technique with an assistant.... to check for spark
make sure distributor is aligned 0-6 degrees
MAKE SURE you have the distributor set correctly and that each spark wire goes to correct spark plug

first: check spark
second: check fuel (smell fuel? take an injector out and check fuel... or spark plug and smell fuel)
third: prevent all vacuum leaks after the air box, the air box controls fuel and air



after that i couldnt give ye ideas....


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## ziddey (Apr 16, 2006)

How did you break the lifter, and why did that require changing the engine?

Are you getting proper fueling at all four injectors? How long did it sit before you got the new motor in? What is your ignition timing? It does sound like a mixture issue--- most likely vacuum leaks. Hell, to simplify, you can delete most of the vacuum components until you get it running. Can you keep it running with your foot on the gas?


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## Noodleboy (Mar 2, 2006)

ziddey said:


> How did you break the lifter, and why did that require changing the engine?
> 
> Are you getting proper fueling at all four injectors? How long did it sit before you got the new motor in? What is your ignition timing? It does sound like a mixture issue--- most likely vacuum leaks. Hell, to simplify, you can delete most of the vacuum components until you get it running. Can you keep it running with your foot on the gas?


The lifter broke due to lack of lubrication and over rev I assume. Was driving to work and just started to get a loud knocking noise. Original motor had over 275,000 miles so I figured may as well drop a fresher motor. I dont know if all injectors are getting proper fueling, I know that all cylinders are getting fuel. The motor would stay running so long as I put my foot on the gas, even just the smallest amount. I need an injector puller and a graduated cylinder for the injector test and I need a dwell meter to do the final adjustment all of which I dont have.


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## Noodleboy (Mar 2, 2006)

update, finally found my bently:thumbup:


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## ny_fam (Apr 3, 2004)

That line from the valve cover breather to the intake manifold - that T fitting should have only a very small hole to allow some air into the intake system. Hole about the size of a toothpick tip. 

Also on the back side of the head, on the same size as the valve cover breather, you'll may see a vacuum port between #3 and #4 intake ports. This should either be plugged or connect to the intake manifold port where the breather goes. 

These can be sources of significant air leaks. 

Since you now have your bently check the air flow sensor plate height. If this isn't right it will be hard to start and won't idle properly.


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## dslazin (Jan 13, 2011)

and you did say you replaced the distributor so check and make sure the distributor isnt 180 deg backwards!


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## Noodleboy (Mar 2, 2006)

can someone tell me why even though all my timing marks are on according to the bentley it still doesnt start and acts like its back firing/hydrolocking. I just want to drive it again but it doesnt look like that is happening any time sooon.


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## ziddey (Apr 16, 2006)

Which is it? You said before you're able to idle and give it gas, but it'd stall if you let go. Then you said, you could keep it running as long as you held the gas. Now you're saying it's backfiring?

It sounds like you went over cam timing numerous times. I'm not sure of the compression of your motor, or how you did the compression test, but 130psi across the board sounds okay (maybe it's a tooth off). Have you absolutely verified cam timing by taking the cover off and looking at the cam itself?

If you are able to start the car and keep it idling, do absolutely check your ignition timing with a timing gun. That sounds pretty critical at this point.

Beyond that, of course you need to hunt down vacuum leaks. But for the time being, to ease your mind, you can increase the idle via the bypass screw. And if need be, get a long 3mm to adjust the mixture. It may be a good idea to note the original value. Assumedly, that's where you should end up at again in the end once you've found everything that was wrong. Otherwise, it may likely been "tampered" with in the past to mask some underlying issue. Either way, it sounds like a slight turn rich (clockwise.. smallllll increments. 1/8 of a turn at a time tops) may help you get the car going at least, so that you can properly dial it in.

I'm assuming this is cis-lambda, and you'll have an o2 sensor to provide feedback for proper mixture adjustments?


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## Noodleboy (Mar 2, 2006)

no now its not starting at all... I took all the vacuum lines off and ran only the bare minimum to try to get it running. When I crank it over it will turn over like 6-7 times then just stop like it is locked up and then crank 4-5 more times and then do the same thing. I have verified cam timing by taking the valve cover off. Im gonna mess around with it more tomorrow and will kind of document my progress as I go and post it up in here.


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## ziddey (Apr 16, 2006)

How is your battery? What was the longest you cranked for (how is your starter)?

Does it start on starting fluid?

Have you played with ignition timing?

Have you pulled injectors yet?


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## Noodleboy (Mar 2, 2006)

The starter is new the battery is new the injectors have not been pulled yet guess that's on the to do list. I need to buy the seals and injector puller first.


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## Noodleboy (Mar 2, 2006)

It does not start with starting fluid.


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## ziddey (Apr 16, 2006)

So you said you pulled the plugs and found them to be flooded?


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## Noodleboy (Mar 2, 2006)

Yes they were. But that was after cranking it for a while.


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## Noodleboy (Mar 2, 2006)

okay going back at it tommorow. Brought home compression tester, timing light, vacuum guage, and spark tester as well at tools to reset the timing. Hopefully I can figure this thing out:banghead:.


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## Noodleboy (Mar 2, 2006)

So I checked timing marks and used a screw drive to make sure the bottom end was on tdc. Checked the cam and it was on tdc. Checked the distributor and it was pointing towards the 1 plug wire. Hooked up
The compression tester and got 120 cyl1 120 cyl2 118 cyl3 122 cyl4. Checked for spark with my spark tester and it's got a good hot spark. Hooked up the timing light and vacuum guage at the same time. Cranked it a few times and was between 3-5 while cranking. Hooked the fuel pump relay back up and cranked while moving the dizzy. It started with a little throttle. Held it close to 1000 rpms while watching the timing light. I never saw any timing marks on the torque converter. Why could this be???? I'm baffled maybe I'm pointing it at the wrong pointer/hole.


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## Noodleboy (Mar 2, 2006)

Vacuum was sitting at about 15-16 with it running which means late timing.


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## MzerMK2 (Jul 5, 2011)

*84 rabbit*

You SURE you dont have two plug wires crossed try switching #3-4 and see what it does then..


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