# AVS Wireless switches Autopilot V1 issues



## YNO WGN (May 27, 2005)

I know there is a thread about this, but my issues are a bit more specific. Here is the instructions I'm using. 

From AVS' manual (with my notes) 
 
AVS Install by smitche, on Flickr 

From Bag Riders (just using this for the wiring diagram of the Airlift manifolds) 
 
AVS Install2 by smitche, on Flickr 

From an email conversation I had with AVS 
1. Cut the F/L UP valve wire (somewhere in between the ECU and the valve, where ever it's convenient for you to splice in). 
2. Now take the wire coming from the ECU and connect it to terminal #87a of the first relay. 
3. Take the other half of the wire that is coming from the valve manifold and connect it to #30. 
4. Do the above steps for the F/R UP to relay #2, then R/L UP to relay #3 and then R/R UP to relay #4. 
6. Now you have all of your up valves spliced into the first four relays, so now do the same with relays 5-8 and splice in all of your dump valves. 
7. Your ECU should now have the 8 valve wires going into the #87a terminals of the relays and the eight wires from the valves connects to the #30 terminals of the relays. 
8. Now starting with relay # 1 use some RED 18-gauge wire and jump the #87 terminal to the #85 terminal and out to the #87 of relay #2, then out to the #85 terminal of relay #2, then out to #87 terminal to relay #3, and so on. Repeat this until all of the #85 and #87 terminals are connected together with ONE single wire coming out from the last #85 terminal on relay #8. Leave this wire alone for now. 
9. Connect the GREY wire (channel #3) from the AVSREC-4 to the #86 terminal of relay #1 and jump it to relays #2,#3 and #4. 
10. Connect the PURPLE wire (channel #4) from the AVSREC-4 to the #86 terminal of relay # 5 and jump it to relays #6, #7 and #8. 
11. Install a 10-amp ATC fuse inline with the 18-gauge RED wire then connect it to a suitable (+)12V source (constant. should be energized even with the key out of the ignition). 

That's it. You will only be able to use this when the car is turned off or you can install an ON/OFF switch on the power input of your V1. Channel #3 will control your UP valves and channel #4 will control your dumps. 

*My issue* 
Now, I'm wiring it up little different using all 4 channels to operate front and rear separately. So I started with the front and that's where the trouble started, so I didn't continue any further. I cut the connection between the manifold and the V1 ecu, attached pin 30 from 1 relay to front left fill manifold valve, hit channel 1, all ok... connect pin 30 from another relay to front right fill manifold valve (nothing yet connected to ECU), hit channel 1, hear relays click, but power is being sent to the ECU and therefore the valves don't open. Basically if I connect more than 1 relay (pin 30) to more than 1 fill/dump valve power goes back to the ECU... this happens whether I've connect pin 87a to the ECU wires or not. Any ideas? 

TL;DR 
Cliffs - connecting more than 1 valve sends power to V1 ECU


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## rgarjr (May 19, 2012)

U need to use diodes to block the power going back to the ECU and possibly damaging it.


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## YNO WGN (May 27, 2005)

I actually have diodes on the 87a pin going back to the ecu, my issue is occurring before I connect anything back to the ecu. The only wires going to the ecu are the grounds and the pressure sensors.


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## rgarjr (May 19, 2012)

how many diodes you got going on there?


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## YNO WGN (May 27, 2005)

I have a total of 8, running them between the ECU and pin 87a of each relay. Pin 30 of each relay is direct wired straight to each valve on the manifold. there are 6 pins on each connector between the ECU and manifold (4 positive to each valve, then 2 negative spliced (by Airlift) into 4 to each valve). The power seems to be going back either through the negative wires or the pressure sensors.


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## rgarjr (May 19, 2012)

I see how they are doing it now using the NC terminals (87A) of the relay. How many relays u have?


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## YNO WGN (May 27, 2005)

8 relays, 1 connected to each valve. It appears that connecting 87a to the ECU is what triggers the AVS switches to disable when the car is running. 


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## YNO WGN (May 27, 2005)

The only thing I'm doing different than the AVS instructions, is I'm using all 4 channels. Channel 1 is front up, channel 2 is rear up, channel 3 is front dump, channel 4 is rear dump. Oh, and using diodes between the relay and the ECU.


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## rgarjr (May 19, 2012)

If you're using 8 relays with the 87a (normally closed) terminal u don't need the diodes. Try taking them off. 

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0BxmIxd1QEFiqeFRrRW1wUGVEVms


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## YNO WGN (May 27, 2005)

Yes, that is exactly how I have it wired, with the exception of the diodes... I will try it tomorrow, plugging it all in without the diodes, however, I still don't understand why, if I don't connect any of the "from ECU" lines, power end up back at the ECU... I assumed that would take the ECU out of the picture altogether. Hm...


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## YNO WGN (May 27, 2005)

Thank you for all your help, btw!!!


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## YNO WGN (May 27, 2005)

Well, as I suspected, removing the diodes didn't change my issue. I still have power going back to the ECU. Could it be back feeding through the grounds? Or the pressure sensors? This doesn't make sense to me...


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## rgarjr (May 19, 2012)

What exactly do u mean by having power going back to the ECU?


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## YNO WGN (May 27, 2005)

rgarjr said:


> What exactly do u mean by having power going back to the ECU?


 When I engage one of the channels the relay clicks, the red light on the Autopilot ECU flickers, and, if the tank is low, a compressor will try to kick on (only if the tank is low and only 1 compressor). And the valve itself does nothing. So essentially, by the ECU getting power it is counter acting the action of the AVS switches (by design). 

EDIT: this is all with the car off and the key out of the ignition.


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## TranAndy (Feb 20, 2005)

yO steve snap some picutres with everything laided out and ill try to connect the wires in paint for you


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## TranAndy (Feb 20, 2005)

http://www.avsontheweb.com/REC4_MANUAL.pdf when i installed it i used page 7 thats how i installed mine


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## YNO WGN (May 27, 2005)

TranAndy said:


> http://www.avsontheweb.com/REC4_MANUAL.pdf when i installed it i used page 7 thats how i installed mine


 Hey Andy, 

I can take some pics, but it's a bit of a mess until I get it working... not sure if you'd be able to make heads or tails of it. However, it is wired (currently-no diodes) exactly as shown in this diagram.


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## TranAndy (Feb 20, 2005)

thats how the email you got from AVS looks like but give this a try disconnect the wire from 87a and tap it into the the 30 and put the diode back in just make sure they are going the right way. and see what that does for you.


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## rgarjr (May 19, 2012)

yeah try connecting the diode on 87a with the band facing to the relay. Polarity matters here.


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## TranAndy (Feb 20, 2005)

also try switching out the reply to another one to make sure the relays arent bad. when they were still on the car they still worked just fine just done know about when i shipped them could have been thrown around or lose wires.(unless you rewired all of it)


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## YNO WGN (May 27, 2005)

I will try connecting the ECU to 30 with the diode and see what happens, but remember the ECU is still getting power even without the connecting the ECU at all (87a unplugged). Also, with the diode band closest to the relay and plugged into 87a the controller doesn't work (tried that yesterday)


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## trefive (Nov 15, 2010)

Not sure if this could be related or not, but when I connected my V1 with the accuair manifold I had issues too as the V1 is on a negative trigger ground and they could not both be grounded to the car. The grounds had to be connected together.


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## YNO WGN (May 27, 2005)

Well, both the Autopilot ECU and the AVS receiver are grounded to the same spot on the chassis... not exactly together, but stacked on top of each other...


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## trefive (Nov 15, 2010)

I think that could be the problem. The AVS may have a standard ground and the V1 is negative trigger. I'm not electrical whiz, but that could be something.


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## rgarjr (May 19, 2012)

YNO WGN said:


> I will try connecting the ECU to 30 with the diode and see what happens,* but remember the ECU is still getting power even without the connecting the ECU at all (87a unplugged).* Also, with the diode band closest to the relay and plugged into 87a the controller doesn't work (tried that yesterday)


 That's weird that you're seeing activity on the V1's LED's when u have 87a not hooked up.


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## YNO WGN (May 27, 2005)

rgarjr said:


> That's weird that you're seeing activity on the V1's LED's when u have 87a not hooked up.


 yeah, that's what I was thinking... that's why I was saying it has to be going back through either the manifold grounds or the pressure sensors. Just don't want to further risk damaging the ECU just to continue testing.


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## TranAndy (Feb 20, 2005)

good point....weird. i say F*ck rock a switch box =) haha


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## YNO WGN (May 27, 2005)

TranAndy said:


> good point....weird. i say F*ck rock a switch box =) haha


 Can't say I haven't considered it. I truly hate V1, and only use it manually anyway. LOL


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## rgarjr (May 19, 2012)

Contact Airlift and see how they have their valves wired.


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