# Can't stand my SDS



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

I've been having some problems over the past week, getting the car to idle by itself. The car runs fine at 750rpm with my 
foot slightly on the gas pedal, but when I let off of the gas pedal, the car runs for 2 seconds max, and then dies out. I've 
talked to Barry @ SDS many times and he suggested to check the magnet position, spark plugs, hall sender reading the magnets, 
spark plug wires on the right coils/cylinders, rpm fuel and ign values...which are all OK.

Here goes my RPM Ignition at the moment:
RPM Ignition
500 10
750 10
1000 10
1250 10
1500 12

Here is my RPM Fuel:
RPM Fuel
500 65
750 65
1000 65
1250 65
1500 68
The car starts up with the vaccuum at about 19 or 18 and with the mixture knob at 20% or so.

My car:
-98 VR6 motor, turbo
-580cc inj. (fuel values are supposed to be set to 60, as calculated with the displacement of the motor, but the car still runs the same even when the values are at 60-65)
I'm trying to find out what the problem is but I have no choice but to see if someone on here has had a similar situation with their SDS.


----------



## blkg60 (Apr 14, 2002)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (_REMUS 13)*

Just run it at 750rpm. You'll still beat half the crap out there.


----------



## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (blkg60)*

so set the throttle screw to adjust it accordingly.....


----------



## vfarren (Sep 11, 2000)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (_REMUS 13)*

If you can get the car to run with your foot on the gas pedal it could be that the car needs more fuel at idle or more air. Try introducing a vacuum leak into the system and see if you can get it to idle. If you can, then you need to figure out how to get more air into the engine at idle speed (perhaps adjusting the stop on the throttle plate on the throttle body).


----------



## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (vfarren)*

not necessarily,
if he holds the pedal steady, and it runs, that just means he needs more air(or adjust the throttle screw),
if hes gotta pump his foot, then it means more fuel.
your accelerator pump only kicks in fuel as your pressing the pedal. once you hold it steady, it doesnt add fuel.


----------



## Hardcore VW (Oct 9, 2001)

That's what I was thinking...........


----------



## StevenT (May 28, 2002)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (speed51133!)*

speed5113! is correct.
Accel Pump only comes into effect when the throttle is moving.
As speed said, adjust the air idle screw on the side of the throttle body to allow more air in. The air idle screw adds more air (becuase it keeps the throttle plade open more), just the same as putting your foot on the pedal does (keeps the throttle blade open more).


----------



## vfarren (Sep 11, 2000)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (StevenT)*

Has the forum turned into the early morning EFI emergency help line? Good ****.


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (vfarren)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vfarren* »_If you can get the car to run with your foot on the gas pedal it could be that the car needs more fuel at idle or more air. Try introducing a vacuum leak into the system and see if you can get it to idle. If you can, then you need to figure out how to get more air into the engine at idle speed (perhaps adjusting the stop on the throttle plate on the throttle body).

The car will not start unless I get 19-18 vaccuum (MP) and give it a little bit of gas. The throttle position is 7-8...so that the throttle is open slightly more when I start the car. 
If I crank the car and immediately give it some gas, it won't start for crap...Again, I have to wait til the manifold pressure is about 19-18 in vaccuum.


----------



## Yukon Jack (Apr 27, 2005)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (_REMUS 13)*

The acc pump lo settings are at 0. If you turn them on and try to give it a little bit of gas it wont start. Ive tried keeping the throttle plate slightly open but it wont start. It has to get to 19" of vac and then open the throttle slightly to get it to start. 
This is the first time getting the thing to run and it just wont stay running long enough to set magnet position or anything else.


----------



## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (Yukon Jack)*

was this motor ever running in the near past?
has this motor been sitting a long time?
this doesnt seem like anything out of normal for tuning on a "old motor". just open that scew alot, and play with the mixture knob as you crank it to start.
also, plugs may have fouled from all this stuff


----------



## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (vfarren)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vfarren* »_Has the forum turned into the early morning EFI emergency help line? Good ****.

no, im just not buisy enough at work and post 100 times a day.....


----------



## Hardcore VW (Oct 9, 2001)

So even though it says simple in the name these things still need tuning?


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (speed51133!)*


_Quote, originally posted by *speed51133!* »_was this motor ever running in the near past?
has this motor been sitting a long time?
this doesnt seem like anything out of normal for tuning on a "old motor". just open that scew alot, and play with the mixture knob as you crank it to start.
also, plugs may have fouled from all this stuff

It hasn't ran since mid-October, right after I dyno'd it with the EIP stuff and sold it.


----------



## D Wiz (Jun 20, 2003)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (_REMUS 13)*

ok peep it.
you say it runs at 60-65 AND with values at 20%

meaning, thta 60-65% is meant at 0%. you are #1 20% more than 65

you arent at 60-65 you are at like 72-77 (20% higher)
and the fact that you need to set your idle higher. my TP is 13 or 15, i cant remember right now
so try higehr idle, fast idle, and leaning it possibly. 
and then remmeber the know raises 20% EVERYWHERE so taht means at rpm fuel, start up, engine temp and man press.

edit: maybe yoru magnets are off. i know i did your magnets but i did them according to your mark. maybe your mark is "off" and i went off of your "off" mark


_Modified by D Wiz at 10:40 AM 5-4-2005_


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (D Wiz)*

I'm pretty sure that my mark on the pulley was perfect...not that complex to do. I don't think its the magnets, but maybe I'm wrong...I'm just thinking of it in the sense that if the magnets were put on wrong, the car wouldn't run for crap...and it does run.
About the fuel: I set the knob back to 0 and raised my fuel values to 90-100, just to see if the car would catch, and it didn't...I guess that was too much fuel. What I'm wondering is why the car only starts up when it reaches 18-19" of vac and not 1-2 seconds after I begin cranking it.


----------



## D Wiz (Jun 20, 2003)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (_REMUS 13)*

get used to it, its not OEM anymore. mine starts rough cause i took my fast idle off and after liek 20 seconds with my foot on the gas i drive off and its PERFECT.
i just replaced a bad coil, maybe you have a bad one
change yoru magnet position 5 each way
if its at 90, go to 95 or 85 see what happens


----------



## D Wiz (Jun 20, 2003)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (D Wiz)*

what about START values, those take priority upon STARTUP at ALL times be it 230 water temp or 40 degrees on a cold day
check those too.
read tha manual for tuning.
if its a ET of im guessing 82 degrees. you have lets say 60 at taht parameter, but your start at 82 degrees has 100, then its adding 100 to taht 60, thus 160
start is the amount of extra fuel added. take a look at that , maybe a stunna like me is gonna have to stop home on the way from school tomorrow to son you son








ask someone on here with similar sized injectors for their values at low water temps


----------



## lugnuts (Jul 26, 2001)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (D Wiz)*

All good info, def. dont worry about messing with acc pump values until the car is starting and running correctly.
The start/idle is probably my most asked question... the factory ECU idles at 800-880 rpm and that is with a partially open ISV... if you install standalone and remove the valve, you'll have to introduce more air into the engine. or it will not start or idle. The problem is worst when cold because of fuel sticking to port walls.
I usually wrap a zip tie around the throttle stop screw, to get the throttle open enough to start and idle and not to have to mess with the stop screw util its running good... those things are fragile also.
Just remember the initial tuning is easiest done with a running car, youre not trying to win a "lowest rpm idle" competition the first 5 minutes haha


----------



## D Wiz (Jun 20, 2003)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (lugnuts)*


_Quote, originally posted by *lugnuts* »_The start/idle is probably my most asked question... 

my opinion, backed by the master


----------



## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (lugnuts)*


_Quote, originally posted by *lugnuts* »_youre not trying to win a "lowest rpm idle" competition the first 5 minutes haha

thats probably going to be the next big sport out of japan to replace drifting....


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

Good info lugnuts, thanks.
Right now, the throttle cable was pulled back a bit, so that the throttle is partially open when I start the car. The throttle position on my sds controller was "12"...and right now with the throttle cable adjusted, the value sits at "7", so a little more air gets through. I'm gonna try pulling the cable back some more and HOPEFULLY that does the trick, since it seems like I need to get more air in there without doing it myself (with the gas pedal).


----------



## vdubspeed (Jul 19, 2002)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*

The title of this thread is wrong.
I think speed hit the nail on the head in his first post. 
if you HAVE to keep your foot on the gas to keep it going then it needs more air. either pop off a vacuum line or turn the screw in.
What is your TP value with the butterfly COMPLETED closed. What does it go to when you let off the gas? 
This problem seems simple.
Jason


----------



## vdubspeed (Jul 19, 2002)

*Re: (vdubspeed)*

one more thing...get rid of the mixture knob. That thing is a crutch. If you have your RPM value at 65 and the car starts at 20% then adjust the RPM FUEL and be done with the knob.
From there you need a wideband to make your fuel map.
IMO...the mixture knob should only be needed to get the car started for the FIRST time and on the dyno http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: (vdubspeed)*

no kidding,
turn that screw in already!
and you tps value should go up, nbto down when you press the throttle, maybe your wires are bassakwards


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: (speed51133!)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubspeed* »_The title of this thread is wrong.
I think speed hit the nail on the head in his first post. 
if you HAVE to keep your foot on the gas to keep it going then it needs more air. either pop off a vacuum line or turn the screw in.
What is your TP value with the butterfly COMPLETED closed. What does it go to when you let off the gas? 
This problem seems simple.
Jason

It sits at 12 (TP) when its completely closed. I have the throttle open a little bit more and it sits at 7 now...so when I let off of the gas, it goes back to 7, not 12 (which would be the position on the normal stock, setting of the accel. cable).

_Quote »_one more thing...get rid of the mixture knob. That thing is a crutch. If you have your RPM value at 65 and the car starts at 20% then adjust the RPM FUEL and be done with the knob.
From there you need a wideband to make your fuel map.
IMO...the mixture knob should only be needed to get the car started for the FIRST time and on the dyno


I adjust the knob once in a while, not everytime. I usually do what you say and change the RPM values most of the time, so that I don't have to keep changing them later on after adjusting that damn knob. 
Going on what Barry from SDS said to me yesterday...my injectors - 580cc and my motor 2.8liter, he said my RPM fuel #'s should be 60. The thing is, the car doesn't start with the knob at 0 and the RPM fuel at 60...I usually have to bump it up somehow, either by making the RPM fuel values higher, or turning the knob itself. 
When I get home, I will mess with the car again and open up the throttle some more.
I'm fairly new to this stuff but it doesn't make sense to me why I would need more air as soon as I begin to crank the car because of the following:
Everytime I crank the car, the vaccuum increases...but if I try to crank the car and hit the gas slightly, the MP will stay at/near -1 or 0...I have to wait until the MP gets to 19" vaccuum and then I can tap the gas slightly and the car will start...Up until that point, the car will not sound like it wants to start and all I hear is the starter making noise as I crank.









Speed, the wires on the TPS are correct. My tested the tps with his multimeter as the throttle opened/closed, while we read the SDS manual on how to do so. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*

This using an OBD1 VR6 throttle body? If so unscrew the backing nut on the throttle "dashpot" and screw the plunger out to raise the idle to 1k. Probably about 3/16-1/4" up. 
Also, make sure you try that bump in timing at 500 to keep er running if it feels like it's going to stall. 
Make sure your map sensor vac line is in good shape..


----------



## vdubspeed (Jul 19, 2002)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*


_Quote, originally posted by *_REMUS 13* »_It sits at 12 (TP) when its completely closed. I have the throttle open a little bit more and it sits at 7 now...so when I let off of the gas, it goes back to 7, not 12 (which would be the position on the normal stock, setting of the accel. cable). 

WOAH WOAH WOAH...stop the train.
you say that your TP is at 12 when it's completely closed but then you say when you open it up a bit more the TP goes to 7!!!! Are you SURE you have it wired correctly.
What is the entire RANGE of your TP sensor. What is it when your foot is off the gas and when your foot is to the floor
NEXT...

_Quote, originally posted by *_REMUS 13* »_I'm fairly new to this stuff but it doesn't make sense to me why I would need more air as soon as I begin to crank the car because of the following: 

*YOU HAVE TO HAVE MORE AIR AT IDLE OR IT WILL NOT STAY RUNNING*.
One more time...
*YOU HAVE TO HAVE MORE AIR AT IDLE OR IT WILL NOT STAY RUNNING*.
Ever notice that SDS offers a idle valve as an option. If you DON'T get this then you either need to keep your foot on the gas to start the car or take off a vacuum line.


----------



## James-Bond007 (May 4, 2005)

*Re: (vdubspeed)*

You have to take off the throttle dashpot..........it screws up the TPS reading and can make the car run erratic at times under high vacuum conditions........and if your cars TPS is reading erratically,thta will give you problems.......SDS is the easiest system out there,so if you are having these kind of problems getting the idle tuned,I recommend finding the nearest shop that specialises in stand alone,and let them take it from here.........VR motor is expensive and not fun to replace,so you may end up saving $$$ in the long run by having the pros take over........if not....keep trying,and READ the instruction manual cover to cover and STUDY IT.it is your FI bible to get it running.


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

*Re: (James-Bond007)*

Why do you have to take the dashpot off, because you can't calibrate TPS values with SDS? Only works off of set voltages for 0-100%?


----------



## D Wiz (Jun 20, 2003)

*Re: (vdubspeed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubspeed* »_
WOAH WOAH WOAH...stop the train.
you say that your TP is at 12 when it's completely closed but then you say when you open it up a bit more the TP goes to 7!!!! Are you SURE you have it wired correctly.

this made me scratch my head too.
my TP at idle is 13, full open is at 54.
if you have it at 12 at idle, not touching a damm thing and step on it and it reads 7, then somwthing is screwed


----------



## D Wiz (Jun 20, 2003)

*Re: (D Wiz)*

i could almost bet your map looks likr this:
lets take ET 84 degrees.
you probably have 60 there
and at start value of 84 you have anotehr 60, so your drowning it with fuel.
combine that with yoru wack ass TPS and you get your erratic start ups. 
and maybe your manifold pressure/fuel are off too. 
put yoru start value for fuel at whatever rpm temp it is way less.
and i religiously leave my know at 0+%. all taht knob is is a calculator. calculate your percentage and correect it, then reutrn it to zero


----------



## adam12er (Sep 6, 2002)

*Re: (D Wiz)*

I agree with eveoryone and the tps numbers. The rpm fuel values shuld not matter at idle as the newer systems have a separate idle fuel setting, but it must jive with your curb idle throttle postion value. If you crank open the throttle, then these values must change. Again as others have said, I would just find a way to add more air to increase your idle. A turbo vr6 with 580cc inj. sounds like it might make some power, so who cares if it idles at 1500?


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

Tonight I will take a further look at my tps readings, tps sensor, and bump the timing at 500rpm to see if it idles by itself.
I guess I'll just update you guys on the situation later tonight. Thanks for all the info!


----------



## Yukon Jack (Apr 27, 2005)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*

Wow, theres alot of misinformation here.
With the throttle fully closed it reads 7 on the TP
I cracked the TB open to 11 and it wont start no matter what. You have to keep it closed to get 19" of vac and then step on the throttle to 11 to get it started. Once its started it idles at 750rpm (15" vac) and you can rev it to 1250 but it stalls after that and pulls a RPM error. 
I put the magnet air gap from 1mm to 4mm and it still pulls RPM error after 1250rpm.
Keeping the throttle open is part of the problem. It wont start if its open even slightly and it wont keep running no matter how much you keep it open. It wont even rev past 1250rpm. The longest we got it to idle was about 30 secs at a steady throttle position at 1000rpm and then it died. Got it started again and played with the lean/rich knob and it suddenly stalls if I went leaner and bogged down if I went richer.
If I leave the knob alone and keep steady throttle position it will still stall after 30 secs or so of running. 
BTW: Ive changed magnet position from 60-90 and it works best at 85. Ive also changed timing from 10 - 16 at 500-750-1000-1250-1500 rpm and it seems to have no effect on keeping it running.


_Modified by Yukon Jack at 6:44 AM 5-5-2005_


----------



## lugnuts (Jul 26, 2001)

*Re: (Yukon Jack)*

where are you taking your MAP sensor signal from? also, take the TPS off the TB and rotate it by hand and make sure it is working properly


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: (lugnuts)*

I'm getting it off of the vac nipple near the brake booster hose, on the manifold.


----------



## Yukon Jack (Apr 27, 2005)

*Re: (lugnuts)*


_Quote, originally posted by *lugnuts* »_where are you taking your MAP sensor signal from? also, take the TPS off the TB and rotate it by hand and make sure it is working properly


TPS works perfectly, I tested that twice.


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

*Re: (Yukon Jack)*

Have you verified your timing values with a timing light? I would do that next. 19" is a little weak on a VR6 I've seen 22-24" and make sure you don't have any MAP fuel trim values in there, or cold start if you're trying to monkey with the fuel at idle with the main fuel map. Any idea on the AF where you're getting it started and the AF where it cuts out?


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: (need_a_VR6)*

I'm going to use my wideband tonight. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I hope to get this nonsense over with. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*

Good luck, get it sorted out http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## James-Bond007 (May 4, 2005)

*Re: (leebro61)*

aNOTHER THING TO DO IS TO GET the MAP values set all back the the SDS DEFAULT values........they have them listed on the website......YOu want to start with a "clean sheet of paper",meaning the MAP values if set back to default values,then they will be smooth......


----------



## vdubspeed (Jul 19, 2002)

*Re: (James-Bond007)*

the ONLY map values I changed from the SDS default ones were the high vacuum so I could settle out my idle and have fuel cut on decel. I didn't touch them for months though after the car was running decent.
Making lots of BIG changes at one time is never the way to go about it.


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*

Tonight's update:
Well I checked all the vaccuum lines/connections and nothing is leaking. The car now starts at about 14 or 15" of vaccuum. It even started by itself on 2 occassions, without me having to open the throttle myself. All of the other times, I had to start it with some throttle...To clear up the throttle position setting...it was set to 7 when it's CLOSED and goes up to 57 when fully open.
I tried what Paul suggested to me, which was to bump the timing at 500 and see if the car would stay idling by itself. I had problems starting it when the car was cold, with the values I posted in the first post of this thread, and after I raised the fuel a bit, the car started up. It ran for about 15 seconds before it cut off, at 750rpm with my foot slightly on the gas. After about 20 episodes more of the same situation and playing with the fuel values here and there...I bumped the fuel up to 110 because my wideband was reading in the low 20's! A friend of mine, kevinmacd, told me that he had his fuel params set in the hundreds...so I began to wonder if what Barry from SDS had calculated (fuel values of 60: 580cc & 2.8liter) for my injectors and displacement was right or wrong. Needless to say, the car actually ran better with the fuel params at 110...it got up to 1500rpm at one point, because I was on the throttle a little too much. 
The car ran for about 3 minutes and could've ran even longer. I was able to rev from 750 to 1250 without the car shutting off or bogging, but my AF was still in the low 20's.







I tried to let the car idle down and it got as low as 8 (throttle position) but as soon as I let off of the throttle and it hit 7 (throttle position), the car shut off. 
Tonight was definitely a better night. This is my first, and most likely my last, SDS hehe...and I'm trying to get this car started myself, at least tune the damn idle.








Below are my current settings and where the car ran best.
Mixture knob = 0
RPM-----Fuel
500-----110
750-----110
1000----110
1250----110
1500----110

RPM-----Ignition
500-----12
750-----10
1000----10
1250----10
1500----12

Thanks for the help guys...This damn car still isn't idling by itself though.






















http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## D Wiz (Jun 20, 2003)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*

well kevin has an all motor vr6
so a value of 110 is high considering he has the same injectors, which i doubt he does. why 550's an an NA vr?
i have 105 value at full boost of 8 psi on 310's
it just sounds liek still too much fuel, dont forget about the *START VALUES!!!!!* the ecu sees those MORE importantly than anything else. so either your start values are "ok" an dthen engine temp values take over and those are crappy
rpm values are more for your "load" tuning. i can bet your engine temp values and start values are ridiculous. RPM FUEL IS FOR LOAD PRIMARILY! and read your manual


----------



## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*

Perhaps its not the SDS? There is still a mechanical portion under that hood...


----------



## James-Bond007 (May 4, 2005)

*Re: (B4S)*

This is rediculous........if you are around OEM cars you will realize that they spend MILLIONS of $$$ and hundreds of hours to make a car mapped for EVRY condition..........SDS car WILL NOT start and idle like ANY OEM car since there is NO idle stabiliser .............mapping a car is not easy due to figuring out
1.start enrichment
2.warmup enrichment
3.running in vacuum 
4.running WOT
5.cruise
6.decel
This is done by ENGINEERS on OEM cars,and by tuning stand alone you are trying to "mimic" what they are doing BUT under boost onb a car never designed for it........
This sh*t is not easy,no matter the "system" you use......I pride myself on making stand alone cars drive like OEM,but the startup always will take about 30 sec-2 minutes before it will idle on its own,and until the engine warms up and idle stabilises,it will be a lower rougher idle due to small throttle plate opening and richer mixture.......
when a car is cold it will need afr in the 12's to low 13's to even idle at all UNLESS you have a idle air stabiliser.........20's afr will not cut it.....


----------



## James-Bond007 (May 4, 2005)

*Re: (James-Bond007)*

Almost forgot...ask "THE WIZ" that motherf*cker knows EVERYTHING!!


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: (James-Bond007)*


_Quote, originally posted by *James-Bond007* »_Almost forgot...ask "THE WIZ" that motherf*cker knows EVERYTHING!!


At least he thinks so.


----------



## D Wiz (Jun 20, 2003)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*


_Quote, originally posted by *_REMUS 13* »_

At least he thinks so.
















hey at least me and thomas agree startup aka start values which ARE the enrichment , then engine temp values are first on the list!








a father like me should really be helping his son out a bit more


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: (D Wiz)*

Don't get your ass thrown into the pool again this year, shorty rock.









The car ran alot better last night and I was surprised that it started up by itself twice...without me having to get on the throttle. Little by little


----------



## vfarren (Sep 11, 2000)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*

Have you read the manual? Do you trust your wideband? If you are running too rich it can read lean due to misfires - but a telltale sign would be black smoke coming out of your exhaust, or exhaust fumes so rich that your eyes tear up. Also your plugs will look black.
1) Start up enrichment - you need enough fuel and air to get the motor to catch when you hit the starter. After that the EFI will go over to warmup enrichment
2) Warmup enrichment is based on coolant temp and is 'usually' a % of your base fuel # for the specific RMP and load point on the map. So say you are idleing at 1000 rpm with a MAP value of 25. Say your coolant temp is 50F and the value you have there is 110. During warmup while your coolant is at 50F then SDS will ADD 10% to the base fuel # at 1000RPM, 25 MAP. Does this make sense?
3) After your engine is warmed up, the warmup enrichment should be 0 and you should be running off of your base map.
You need to re-read your manual if you are not clear on these procedures. Another thing I would do is not open the throttle more to get the car to start. Instead, introduce a vacuum leak and leave the throttle closed. That will help you tune your idle correctly since the throttle will be closed since you aren't likely going to want to sit at traffic lights with your foot on the gas.
I know this can be frustrating but take your time and take notes that way you can look back from day to day and see what made things better or worse. It is really not THAT hard, you just have to think about it critically.

_Quote, originally posted by *_REMUS 13* »_Don't get your ass thrown into the pool again this year, shorty rock.









The car ran alot better last night and I was surprised that it started up by itself twice...without me having to get on the throttle. Little by little


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

*Re: (vfarren)*

Frustrating is trying to get a VR6 with 276s and a stock IAC and a chop to idle well. This is nothing








There are two ways to approach the startup fueling:
1) leave your RPM fuel to SDS's calc'd values and try to get all the enrichments right
2) put all the enrichments to 0 and use the RPM fuel and the mix knob to get enough fuel to get the car running
I'm all for the second as you can play with a bit and check your pulse width over the temps you're running and then back calculate your enrichments once you have the car hot and your rpm fuel slightly tuned. Cold start, and warmup are a pain to get right and I suggest you work on that LAST so you don't get frustrated and light the car on fire.


----------



## vdubspeed (Jul 19, 2002)

*Re: (need_a_VR6)*

I bet I could get it idling with minutes of being there. Obviously SDS is working because you CAN get it running OVER AND OVER AND OVER.
SDS provides fuel and ignition...not self tuning.
You oughta let a professional check it out and then have him tell you what he did.
And 110 RPM fuel for your setup sounds crazy. 110 is the HIGHEST I have for my turbo 16vT at peak torque on 440s.
Reset ALL your values to stock, pull ONE vaccuum line post T/B and go from there.


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (_REMUS 13)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubspeed* »_I bet I could get it idling with minutes of being there. Obviously SDS is working because you CAN get it running OVER AND OVER AND OVER.
SDS provides fuel and ignition...not self tuning.
You oughta let a professional check it out and then have him tell you what he did.
And 110 RPM fuel for your setup sounds crazy. 110 is the HIGHEST I have for my turbo 16vT at peak torque on 440s.
Reset ALL your values to stock, pull ONE vaccuum line post T/B and go from there.

Well I don't know man, I'll pull a line off tonight and see if that allows the little bit of air that I need for it to idle itself.
Take it to a professional? What do I look like?







I'm trying to get this thing running myself so that I learn how to mess with it...Not like people who have a shop do their car up and then when it breaks, they have no idea what caused the problem....so obviously this thing isn't that easy...at least I think so.
I had a friend (Yukon Jack) over the garage about 5-6 times and the car still isn't running correctly. It's run a bit better the last 2-3 times I've messed with it myself. Not to say he doesn't know anything about SDS, because he does, but he's even skeptical as to why this thing isn't starting







and he's set up 3-4 SDS systems...all on 4 cyl's I believe. 
As far as D Wiz goes...you're never touching my car again in your life...except when the bubble gum welds you blessed me with break, and to fix my crooked-ass exhaust that you f'ed up.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## vdubspeed (Jul 19, 2002)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (_REMUS 13)*

so you're still not giving it extra air at startup?
have you ever noticed cars come with an ISV from the factory stock.
THEY NEED MORE AIR...don't believe me...read this...
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1755799
So yeah...I was in your shoes about 5 months ago. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (vdubspeed)*

I feel ya man.
I'm using an OBD1 throttle body and right now, that hole for the ISV is covered...I thought it was supposed to be plugged. Once I'm boosting it better be.









Another thing is that I keep getting RPM errors when I try to start the car sometimes.










_Modified by _REMUS 13 at 1:30 PM 5-6-2005_


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (_REMUS 13)*

If you don't have the throttle dashpot installed and goosed WAY out, and no ISV there's no way you have enough idle air. I tried to set my car up that way on stock EFI and it just wasn't having it. Open up your plug in the manifold for the ISV to about a 3/16" hole and I bet she'd start right up


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (need_a_VR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *need_a_VR6* »_If you don't have the throttle dashpot installed and goosed WAY out, and no ISV there's no way you have enough idle air. I tried to set my car up that way on stock EFI and it just wasn't having it. Open up your plug in the manifold for the ISV to about a 3/16" hole and I bet she'd start right up









That makes sense Paul, but the thing is even when I touch the gas pedal slightly (which would be the same as opening the ISV hole a bit) the motor will not get enough vaccuum to start. Like I said, it usually starts up from 15-19" of vac. I'll try that though!!!!!


----------



## vdubspeed (Jul 19, 2002)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (_REMUS 13)*


_Quote, originally posted by *_REMUS 13* »_Another thing is that I keep getting RPM errors when I try to start the car sometimes.









then you have other problems that you need to address.
are ALL magnets seen? is your bracket for the hall sensor sturdy enough to lift the engine by? are you using correct wires?


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (vdubspeed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubspeed* »_
then you have other problems that you need to address.
are ALL magnets seen? is your bracket for the hall sensor sturdy enough to lift the engine by? are you using correct wires?


Yes, the bracket is pretty damn strong! The magnets are seen 100% of the time now that the bracket was adjusted a bit. I don't think that's the problem because last night, I had the car running for 3 minutes with no problems. If the mags weren't being read, I would expect the car not to run at all...due to the mags not being seen...or just 1-2 being seen. The joint wouldn't start.


----------



## D Wiz (Jun 20, 2003)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*

i may not know everything but my car dopes start on the first try.
personlayy to be honest youre my boy but youre one of those friends no one wants to touch his car anyways cause yorue so paranoid!
i bet i could get it running








and yeah bubble gum welds are on yorue car but they were free!!


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: (D Wiz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *D Wiz* »_i may not know everything but my car dopes start on the first try.
personlayy to be honest youre my boy but youre one of those friends no one wants to touch his car anyways cause yorue so paranoid!
i bet i could get it running








and yeah bubble gum welds are on yorue car but they were free!!

On the contrary, you're a cheap mofo







.
Anyhow, I thought Dustin got your car running for you...I could be totally off whack though what do I know.








"and yeah bubble gum welds are on yorue car but they were free!!"...You forgot about your website huh?







That's not the right way to look at things man...you should take at least SOME pride in what you do...What happens when people ask me who did those crazy ass welds on my pipes? You want your name tossed out so that people don't go to you for work?








Aside from you being the cheapest friend I have







, I still refer people to you and D hoffa for work, everytime! So don't play yourself.


----------



## Yukon Jack (Apr 27, 2005)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*

If you're gonna be around tomorrow after 4 Ill come up to screw with it some more.


----------



## 12 SEC ABA (Dec 27, 2002)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (vdubspeed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubspeed* »_
then you have other problems that you need to address.
are ALL magnets seen? is your bracket for the hall sensor sturdy enough to lift the engine by? are you using correct wires?

I second this, all it takes is one RPM error while idling and car will die. YOu need to fix this problem, it might not happen all the time, but it will come back to bite you in your arse.


----------



## zootz (Nov 12, 2003)

Sounds like a more basic problem. Not much will stall a motor running at a constant RPM and load. Is it running out of fuel? Check your pressure AND flow volume.
Could be an electrical problem. I had a car that ran for 3 to 5 min. then stopped. The pickup coil in the distributer would short out as soon as it got to about 90 deg. When it cooled down it would start again. 
Next time your engine stalls pull your plugs to see what they look like. Wet, dry? check your spark.

By the way D-Wiz made me a nice looking short runner for my 8V. Maybe you should have paid him a few bucks.


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: (zootz)*

I took the vaccuum line off the nipple on the intake manifold, right after the throttle body, and the motor did not see more than 2" of vaccuum and obviously did not want to start up that way. 
The fuel/timing values are the same (as listed above) and the magnets are all being seen. TPS is reading correctly as well.
****ing car







http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## James-Bond007 (May 4, 2005)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*

What is turning on the fuel pump???


----------



## nycvr6 (May 4, 1999)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*

Get a real standalone, and quit playing with magnets.


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

Just tried everything all over again. Same ol ****.


----------



## Jefnes3 (Aug 17, 2001)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*

Bring to my shop. (Not really, I know you can't now)
Just call.
I'll get you sorted.
-Jeff


_Modified by Jefnes3 at 7:40 PM 5-7-2005_


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

The day it moves 1 foot is the day I get this bitch running. It's not leaving the garage until then.


----------



## Sleepy Mk1 (Nov 16, 2002)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*

There's a more basic problem here that you're missing. My car will start with the 1/2" line for the brake booster unplugged, there's no reason why it shouldn't start without vacuum.
I'd definately check fuel press and volume, and also forget about other peep's values. Sure they work for a starting point, but in the end you need to do whatever works for your car. I tried a map from a buddy of mine with the same size engine and the same injectors/fuel pressure and the car ran like crap.
If you can get it running with a vacuum line off, do it, and dial inthe fuel values so you can get it to idle and rev properly. Then plug the vacuum line on and adjust the throttle so it stays there...


----------



## vdubspeed (Jul 19, 2002)

*Re: (Sleepy Mk1)*

yeah no doubt...you keep saying it needs vacuum but yesterday I checked mine and the damn thing was running with 11-14 inches of vacuum. one this is for sure. you can't pull the vacuum line before the MAP. The map sensor will fall dead on it's face.
I pull another vac line that goes to my BOV. It works perfect http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Glad to see you got the first thread back.


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: (vdubspeed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubspeed* »_yeah no doubt...you keep saying it needs vacuum but yesterday I checked mine and the damn thing was running with 11-14 inches of vacuum. one this is for sure. you can't pull the vacuum line before the MAP. The map sensor will fall dead on it's face.
I pull another vac line that goes to my BOV. It works perfect http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Glad to see you got the first thread back.


What's up man. 
Well, my boost pipes aren't even on the car yet. I'm gonna drive the car around without them until it runs fine naturally aspirated, therefore, my BOV isn't there. One problem I have is that I don't have the "screw" you were talking about! My friend gave me an OBD1 TB and manifold he had lying around and since I had no knowledge of an OBD1 TB in the past, so I didn't know that I was missing a bracket and the dashpot, which will help me keep the TB a bit more open...obviously so my car won't die at idle. This makes sense because like I said before, the car will run at TP 8 but as soon as I let off the gas a LITTLE bit and the TP drops to 7...the car shuts off...meaning 7 is when the TB is completely SHUT. Makes sense to me. 
The only thing I see the dashpot conflicting with is allowing me to start the car. If the TB is open too much, the car won't start because it will not pull enough vaccuum. The best chance I had was trying to get the car started with the small nipple near the runners sucking in air because it's not that big in diameter...but the car struggled. I'm hoping with that with the dashpot, the car starts up when I open the throttle plate just a tad bit more...That's all I'm worried about at the moment. Besides that, like I said before, I know it will help the car stay idling by itself because I can put the screw down a little more so that I can set the TP to 9-11 and the car could breath by itself.


----------



## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*

isnt what you just posted what i reccomended like over a week ago?
diddnt like 5 others also chime in and say "yes, do that"??
how come you still havent done this?????????????????????????????????


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: (speed51133!)*


_Quote, originally posted by *speed51133!* »_
how come you still havent done this?????????????????????????????????


Um...maybe because I don't have the part yet? It's shipping tomorrow and should be here by Friday. 
Tough crowd.


----------



## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*

what part is this?
you ordered a new tps or a new screw?
the screw can be had at any hardware store


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

*Re: (speed51133!)*

Dang I could have mailed you a dashpot a week ago.. I have like four of em. Not sure why. Good luck and keep us posted...


----------



## Yukon Jack (Apr 27, 2005)

*Re: (need_a_VR6)*

He never asked me for one either. Just an OBD1 TB which I dont have but I do have 2 dashpots.


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: (Yukon Jack)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Yukon Jack* »_He never asked me for one either. Just an OBD1 TB which I dont have but I do have 2 dashpots.










I'm surprised you didn't notice that weeks ago.


----------



## D Wiz (Jun 20, 2003)

*Re: (speed51133!)*


_Quote, originally posted by *speed51133!* »_remus+yukon jack=














?????????????????????????????????

come on man, you still havent gotten it on?
man just take yoru throotle body off and leave it plugged i fvacuum is the problem! haha


----------



## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: (D Wiz)*

hey, you quoted me on something i never said!


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: (D Wiz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *D Wiz* »_
come on man, you still havent gotten it on?
man just take yoru throotle body off and leave it plugged i fvacuum is the problem! haha


Man shut up.







You're the one who called me last week asking for Yukon Jack because your SDS was giving you trouble and you want to fix my car?


----------



## vdubspeed (Jul 19, 2002)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*

Wow...so this whole time you've NEVER had a way to crack open the t/b. 






















I'm telling you...it's SO easy but this thread is making it seem like a big deal.
Anyway...my wife is driving my 16vT on SDS to work tomorrow. She says it runs better than before(CIS-E had a nasty idle stabilization habit).
l8r,
Jason


----------



## Yukon Jack (Apr 27, 2005)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*


_Quote, originally posted by *_REMUS 13* »_

I'm surprised you didn't notice that weeks ago.










I told you that it didnt have one, i was opening the throttle by pulling the cable and moving the clip. My problem was even at 8 on the TP it still wouldnt start, had to keep it closed until 19" of vac and then open it to 8 and it would run.


----------



## TnT2theMax (Dec 28, 2002)

*Re: (Yukon Jack)*

When running SDS can you plug the vacuum ports for idle air control and just adjust the TP screw for idle?


----------



## Bad Habit (Nov 27, 2002)

*Re: (TnT2theMax)*

I have a TEC III R if your interested


----------



## 12 SEC ABA (Dec 27, 2002)

*Re: (Bad Habit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bad Habit* »_I have a TEC III R if your interested

If he cant get sds to run he definatly will never get the tec to run


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: (12 SEC ABA)*








^^
I'm sorry I wasn't born a car mechanic.









Anyhow, I got the dashpot today so when I get home, I'm gonna slap it on there and see if it helps (which it should). I'm also going to change the start values (vaccuum/fuel) to see if the car starts at less vaccuum than before. 

_Quote, originally posted by *sds* »__Idle:
Since idle mixture is difficult to pre-program, the user will most likely have to adjust the values in this manifold pressure range. 
Select gauge mode to get an idea of what manifold pressure your engine is 31 idling at. When using the mixture meter, most engines have to idle quite rich to be smooth.
Engines with stock camshafts will usually idle between 18 and 22 inches vacuum. The MANIFOLD
PRESSURE value should be around 28 to 35. Idle MAP values often work best when the values are the same over the whole range of idle MAP ranges (2-3 ranges)._


----------



## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*

dude,
have you or have you not gotten a screw to adust the idle yet?
if you dont have that screw on your TB yet, dont even post here!


----------



## 12 SEC ABA (Dec 27, 2002)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*


_Quote, originally posted by *_REMUS 13* »_







^^
I'm sorry I wasn't born a car mechanic.











It's not even beeing mecanicaly inclined, it's listening to what people say(screw in TB) and more than once someone has asked to help you and your turn them down, but hope the best to you.


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: (12 SEC ABA)*


_Quote, originally posted by *12 SEC ABA* »_
It's not even beeing mecanicaly inclined, it's listening to what people say(screw in TB) and more than once someone has asked to help you and your turn them down, but hope the best to you.


Well being that I just got the dashpot in the mail TODAY, I guess I'm just that much further into getting it to idle all by itself. As I said in a previous post, I had no knowledge of OBD1 TB's, as I have an OBD2 motor, until the SDS phase of my car. Thus, I had no idea that f'in dashpot was missing. 
For the part of me turning down people for help, that's false. I mean I know D Wiz personally, that's my son right there, and he had problems with his own SDS and had someone else fix it. Why would I want him touching my car?  I've known both him and Yukon Jack (which has dome 3-4 SDS installs in the past on other cars) for 3-4 years now and we're not enemies, so I think you guys have it all confused. D Wiz is my son, nothing more, nothing less, he just gets out of line sometimes.







Yukon Jack helped me out for a few days and this car still didn't run by itself. I don't blame him for it either because I was missing the part that was giving us trouble. But like I said before, I had no idea that I was missing the part. 
This is my first SDS so I knew I'd run into some sort of problems so I'm not gonna really sweat it. I'm gonna put that part on tonight and then start changing some of the values in the controller for vaccuum and see if the car starts at lower vaccuum.


----------



## nycvr6 (May 4, 1999)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*

You dont need no crappy dashpot, just the idle adjust screw. I told you to try that last week too, do it up, it'll be running in no time.


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (_REMUS 13)*

Sorry to burst some of you guy's bubbles but:
1- That idle adjustment screw doesn't make a difference.
2- The dashpot I got held the throttle open a little more but even that didn't allow the car to start on it's own.
3- The car stays on (with my foot on the gas at TP 11) and craps out after 5 seconds.

I bumped the START fuel values from 10 to 13-15 (from 500-1000rpm) and the car still didn't start itself. I had to give it some throttle for it to start up. It will idle itself for a few seconds because the dashpot keeps the throttle partly open but like I said before, the motor craps out after 5 seconds. 
I'm seriously about to hang this car out to dry and call it quits. Everytime I try something different that I think will work or that I get advice for, still the same results. Don't know where to go next but my time is ticking with this ****ing car.


----------



## 2kjettaguy (Dec 24, 2000)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (_REMUS 13)*

So, it will start. When you get it started can you keep it running via the throttle? If so, can you drive it? And I don't mean drive it like a stock vehicle, I mean drive it like a poorly tuned car. Just make it roll so you can get a feel for all the values.


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (2kjettaguy)*

Nah I can't drive it because it'll shut right off. The car would stay on, on previous days, but last night it would stay on for about 5-6 seconds and then shut right off, even with the TP open. It sounds really good when it's on and then falls flat on it's face the next second.


----------



## Hardcore VW (Oct 9, 2001)

Did it ever run? Double check to see that your Accel Pump values didn't get bumped,I doubt it with the new controller,but mine did all the time with the old button versions and it'd give symptoms similar to what I think I just read,if your saying you hit the throttle and it stalls.


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: (Hardcore VW)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Hardcore VW* »_Did it ever run? Double check to see that your Accel Pump values didn't get bumped,I doubt it with the new controller,but mine did all the time with the old button versions and it'd give symptoms similar to what I think I just read,if your saying you hit the throttle and it stalls.


Yea, it ran. I mean, it ran even longer last week. My acc pump value (low) is 0. I haven't touched that yet. 
What happens is I have to give it throttle in order for it to start but only after enough vaccuum is built up. I can keep my foot steady at throttle position 11 or 12 and the car will run good at 750rpm but will cut off after 5+ seconds or so. That's what happened repeatedly last night. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*

i SERIOUSLY doubt adjusting that screw doensnt do anything.
thats impossible.
that means hitting the throttle doesnt do anything either.
a pot isnt going to do ANYTHING for idle problems.


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: (speed51133!)*


_Quote, originally posted by *speed51133!* »_i SERIOUSLY doubt adjusting that screw doensnt do anything.
thats impossible.
that means hitting the throttle doesnt do anything either.
a pot isnt going to do ANYTHING for idle problems.

Dude, my throttle was open correctly this time...above TP 7 and the car still shuts off with my foot on the throttle at TP 10-12. What does that have to do with an idle screw? Absolutely nothing. That's not the problem, trust me.


----------



## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*

so the car idles perfect, and when you tuouch the gas, it dies..
how about if you press the throttle, REALLY SLOWLY.
have you made sure your ecu is map sensor load sensing, and not tps load sensing??
if you press the throttle real slow, the accel pump will have no affect on this either, and the pot will do no effect either.
like i said, ive driven my car around town with no tps hooked up.. you just hit the gas REAL slow.


----------



## D Wiz (Jun 20, 2003)

*Re: (speed51133!)*


_Quote, originally posted by *speed51133!* »_have you made sure your ecu is map sensor load sensing, and not tps load sensing??

good point


----------



## 2kjettaguy (Dec 24, 2000)

*Re: (D Wiz)*

Agree with the above... it sounds TPS related. Whether that means a bad TPS or bad TPS settings.


----------



## Stephen Webb (Apr 12, 2001)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (StevenT)*

Ok...a few people have suggested adjusting the throttle plate stop screw....I just wanted to add my thoughts on the subject...
I've read in a few different places that you should "never" adjust the idle air with the throttle stop...It is meant to set the fully closed position of the throttle plate to prevent binding, etc....and is not meant to adjust idle....Instead use the idle air bypass screw which is meant for the purpose of idle adjustment...
Maybe I'm not up to date on the newer throttle bodies, but certainly the older ones are set up this way...
-Steve
EDIT: Well, ****..so many people are talking about adjusting the idle by the throttle stop screw, I guess I *am* out of date.
Also, what in the hell is a dashpot?


_Modified by Stephen Webb at 11:30 PM 5-13-2005_


----------



## Sleepy Mk1 (Nov 16, 2002)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (Stephen Webb)*

That's true on engines with an IAC, which this doesn't have.


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (Stephen Webb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Stephen Webb* »_Also, what in the hell is a dashpot?

_Modified by Stephen Webb at 11:30 PM 5-13-2005_

It's the 'other' throttle stop on the OBD1 cars, it has a small damped plunger so the throttle doesn't snap closed as fast. Emissions crap. 
I can see where adjusting the dashpot or idle stop could cause problems if you can't trim the idle TPS value in the SDS and it thinks you're actually opening the throttle. I looked through their documentation and it doesn't really mention TPS calibration at all. 
Did you use the VW tps or a generic (Ford/GM) one?


----------



## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (need_a_VR6)*

i always rip off thoes stupid little dampners on the TB.
i had no clue what a dashpot is either....
i thought he meant TPS
the vw manual tells you not to adjust the throttle screw, but im sure it doesnt like you ripping out your ecu and harness to put in standalone either










_Modified by speed51133! at 6:42 AM 5-16-2005_


----------



## Yukon Jack (Apr 27, 2005)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (need_a_VR6)*

he's running an OBD1 TB from an automatic. Seems to be in good working order. Goes all the way from 7 to 54 smoothly as you step on the throttle.


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (Yukon Jack)*

... and 7 is an OK value for the fully closed TPS value that SDS is expecting?


----------



## Yukon Jack (Apr 27, 2005)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (need_a_VR6)*

Yes, it should be between 4 and 8.


----------



## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (need_a_VR6)*

depends on the manifold, engine, etc....
honestly i dont care anymore....
not enough feedback to the reccomendations given such as 
"ok, i tried what you said to do and the result was this....."


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

*Re: Can't stand my SDS (Yukon Jack)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Yukon Jack* »_Yes, it should be between 4 and 8.

I think at this point he should either set the car on fire or drop it off at my place for some diag


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

it's alive


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*


_Quote, originally posted by *_REMUS 13* »_it's alive









Verdict?


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: (need_a_VR6)*

Video will come soon.


----------



## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*

whatd u do to get it running ? i wish so many people would help me with my bouncing idle/stalling problem ..
at least say what u did to get it running right


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: (liquidtension)*

Fuel trigger + new coilpack from autozone = solution
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 








bitch is finally done...except for the tuning part.


_Modified by _REMUS 13 at 10:49 PM 6-2-2005_


----------



## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif







looks great


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: (liquidtension)*

Thanks.
Taking it for it's first test-drive tonight.
Here is my timing map as it stands.
500 - 12 deg
750 - 12 deg
1000 - 14 deg
1250 - 16 deg
1500 - 18 deg
1750 - 20 deg
2000 - 22 deg
2250 - 24 deg
2500 - 26 deg
2750 - 28 deg
3000 and up - 30 deg
Hopefully things go well. (tuning n/a at the moment)


----------



## Sleepy Mk1 (Nov 16, 2002)

*Re: (liquidtension)*


_Quote, originally posted by *liquidtension* »_whatd u do to get it running ? i wish so many people would help me with my bouncing idle/stalling problem ..


What's your idle/stalling problem?


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

Considering I only drive the car in 1st and 2nd gear, it ran pretty good today. I got up to about 40mph. 
One thing that I didn't understand was when I rev the car and I want to take off, from a stoplight or what have you, the rpms suddenly go down for a quick second when I hit the gas pedal and then the motor responds and revs up. Is this normal?


----------



## Jefnes3 (Aug 17, 2001)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*

Remus,
Got a wideband on yet?
Bring yout ride up to Hamden. Get you tuned in 
an ~1-2 hours to full boost.
I hope you got the 3 bar map sensor.

There is NO reason you should be dragging this out so long. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

-Jeff


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: (Jefnes3)*

One reason was graduating college.









I have a 2bar map that came with my SDS btw. I didn't use my wideband yet because my lighter suddenly stopped working so I'm going to wire the wideband right up to the fuse block so that I have power. That's why I didn't take the car for a lengthy spin. If it wouldn't worked, I still would've been driving til this minute.








http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*

N/A tuning went pretty good tonight (took off one of my boost pipes). Some more touching-up to do on Monday, still naturally aspirated and then the boost pipes will go on and tuning will continue from there.


----------



## vdubspeed (Jul 19, 2002)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*

I tried ONE night to tune my car without a wideband. It was rediculous and waste of time.
Then I got a wideband and within hours it ran PERFECT.
Good luck,
Jason


----------



## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*


_Quote, originally posted by *_REMUS 13* »_Fuel trigger + new coilpack from autozone = solution
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


whats a fuel trigger?


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: (vdubspeed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubspeed* »_I tried ONE night to tune my car without a wideband. It was rediculous and waste of time.
Then I got a wideband and within hours it ran PERFECT.
Good luck,
Jason


I did use my wideband.


----------



## D Wiz (Jun 20, 2003)

*Re: (speed51133!)*


_Quote, originally posted by *speed51133!* »_
whats a fuel trigger?









i was wondering the same thing. you do have to trigger the fuel pump to go on with the sds. its obviously fuel pump related. 
i am so proud of my son, i had my doubts but i knew he coudl do it in the end


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

that's what I meant...sorry for the confusion


----------



## vdubspeed (Jul 19, 2002)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*

what did you have to do to the fuel trigger wire? Was the coil bad directly from SDS?
It sounds like it wasn't SDS's fault to begin with.


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: (vdubspeed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubspeed* »_what did you have to do to the fuel trigger wire? Was the coil bad directly from SDS?
It sounds like it wasn't SDS's fault to begin with.


Fuel trigger wire was LOOSE aka not connected to the block.
The coil wasn't bad from sds because I checked the spark plugs (out of the cylinders) and they were firing correctly.
You're making it sound like I said it was SDS' fault? Who ever said that?


----------



## D Wiz (Jun 20, 2003)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*

whatsthe name of this thread dummy


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: (D Wiz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *D Wiz* »_whatsthe name of this thread dummy










"Can't stand my SDS", not "SDS's fault to begin with."...you little turd.


----------



## 12 SEC ABA (Dec 27, 2002)

*Re: (_REMUS 13)*


_Quote, originally posted by *_REMUS 13* »_

"Can't stand my SDS", not "SDS's fault to begin with."...you little turd.

"Cant stand my sds" means you think it was causing your problems. your suck a dumb arse. eveything you say contradicts what you previosly said. first the fix was a autozone coil and fuel trigger, but if the coil was from autozone your car would have came stock with a coil not coil packs from sds. but you said the one you got from sds worked cause you checked spark, they dont sell single coils.








I personaly think you f'ed up and dont want to admit it.


----------



## _REMUS 13 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: (12 SEC ABA)*


_Quote, originally posted by *12 SEC ABA* »_
"Cant stand my sds" means you think it was causing your problems. your suck a dumb arse. eveything you say contradicts what you previosly said. first the fix was a autozone coil and fuel trigger, but if the coil was from autozone your car would have came stock with a coil not coil packs from sds. but you said the one you got from sds worked cause you checked spark, they dont sell single coils.








I personaly think you f'ed up and dont want to admit it.

ok


----------



## Dreamstate (Jan 2, 2002)

I remember having to get a new coil almost immediately when I was tuning my SDS. This was a few years ago.. can't remember why it went. Or if it ever worked. But it was warrantied from SDS. Glad to see you got it sorted out.


----------

