# SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS>



## Village_Idiot (Oct 16, 2004)

So yea for a long time I've had my N249 and N112 removed as well as the plastic lines that connect the SAI pump to the combi valve (they got in my way during an oil change so I tore them out!). However, I never took the full plunge and just bought that SAI block off plate from integrated engineering and a whole slew of other parts mostly relating to the car audio install I'm about to get heavily into this week. I normally don't post photos of much of my work because I just like moving quickly but I know that other people might want to do this. Having photos and the knowledge that it's not that hard, it's definitely beneficial as well as the warmer spring weather coming up might just push you guys on the fence to the dark side.
>Okay the benefits according to me aka I'm probably wrong, but they are somewhat educated guesses. 
Biggest benefit of it all of this is just having less vacuum lines under pressure, less lines to have tears in them, less places to have vacuum leaks that cause loss of power and boost abnormalities that a lot of us search down for weeks to no avail until the car drives us so crazy that we want to sell it. Then that magical friend comes along and fixes it for us - I always love that guy - the magic touch. Good run on sentence - on to specifics - once again all of it IMO from what I've gathered by reading - correct if you think I'm wrong but don't be a







about it.
>>Removing N249/N112 & vacuum resivour. Okay they look fugly on top of the motor and a year or two ago I just got really tired of removing that thing to get to my spark plugs which I was experimenting with a few brands at the time so I just tore it off. However, besides cosmetic and convenience the N249 is just a backup diverter valve for if yours fails and your turbo overboosts. All this says to me is blah blah blah over-engineered junk that I don't want and could cut my boost if I so choose to turn it up past a designated ECU cutoff (I'm sure that number exists even with a chip). Anyway, having my DV plugged straight into the intake manifold as a Vac source rid my DV of it's fluttering issue and it makes it feel like it has a faster response. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
>> PVC removal: All the stock PCV valve does is dump oil from the oil filter housing and the valve cover back into the turbo inlet pipe to circulate through our systems. Sounds great right? I removed all this and popped a catch can in there just like the writeup I was following from the MK4 FAQ/DIY section - I'll link to it tomorrow.
For now it's bedtime, but here are the photos from today's work. I will be updating this thread as I make progress... I will also be making a dash mounted boost gauge holder as stealth as possible, doing the Hertz speaker install with sound insulation and a second hand Kicker amp & audiobahn capacitor, cleaning up everything under the engine bay and simplifying as many systems as I can and taking photos of a bunch of crap along the way! Oh and doing a balljoint cause aftermarket sucks and one of the studs broke cause I over torqued it. Also going to buy an after-run coolant pump and do an oil change - I know you can't wait to see photos of that oil change!
Enjoy my horrible photography skills for now: http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 

This is my basement where pretty much the entire interior of my car resides and any parts I've torn out of it- which are a lot since the two dressers are filled and I have boxes stacked around it. Yea you can see why am I talking- Next slide. INTERN NEXT SLIDE - "do the interns get glocks?" - "no they all share one"

Where the evap was located under the passenger fender. you can see a few bolts that I put back just to plug the holes up that held that mess in there and the one wire connector hanging. I need to solder in a resistor tomorrow. The two big holes to the left of the strut need to be patched up too since the EVAP lines were fed from the engine bay into there.








lots of sound insulation:








Hertz HSK-165 2-way components. My new Italian beauts!
























































My doggie:
























PVC deleted and putting in the catch can. Pretty much the oil filter housing and the valve cover provide pressure and force the oil into the catch can then the catch can lets the excess pressure back into the turbo inlet pipe. I will figure out what home depot sizes I used tomorrow to be somewhat helpful (also you won't have to buy a lot of crap like I did and spend $$$) - sometimes through all these photos I show a new fitting next to the old just to get an idea of what used to be there or what I'm patching up.
























































This is where the SAI plate should be going when it gets in. The combi valve used to be attached to here. The coolant to block hose (left side/black) had to be taken off to maneuver around, you loose all your coolant. I recommend doing it from the bottom of the radiator to be cleaner then removing this after it's all drained. I don't know why I didn't do that, I really didn't care much today though!








This is the brake booster line. It's the only line I have left running along the firewall of the car above the turbo. It comes from the brake booster and I'll be connecting it to the left side port of the intake manifold that used to have a Y adapter on it that's now been removed with the PVC system. 








I mounted my catch can to my battery box by making a quick small dremell cut-off wheel slit and sliding a clamp through. Works' great, pretty clean, not really - whatever I think it's cool. Oh and cheap.
































The one line you need to keep that run's by the firewall is the coolant resiovur to that black pipe that bolts to the motor pictured above on the SAI plate photo. I chose to remove the hard line that ran across the firewall and run my own 5/8th's fuel line along the front of the car with all the other coolant lines. I'll end up ziptieing there. 

































The third hard line I removed from the firewall was the evap to turbo inlet pipe line. This was just a vent line and I needed to plug up the turbo inlet pipe with a brass plug, worked like a charm for me!
























RCA/speaker wire/resistors I got REALLY cheap from partsxpress.com
















My intake manifold. Alright so there's 5 ports total on the mani. The port that has a curved vac line on it goes to the brake booster hardline that sits right there. One of the small ports goes to my FPR, another to my DV. I'm going to plug up the center port on the bottom with a home depot brass plug and I'm going to use the port on top of the throttle body for my boost gauge's electronic boost sender unit which is a whole nother' project because I ran a vac line pretty stealth in through the fuse box. Pics to come, I know I need to repaint all my stuff!
















I just pressed in the rear position poly's. I had the front's already with MCPi Defcon inserts, love em - thanks Mike - GREAT PRODUCT!
















Removed N-valves. I had these out for awhile so this was just stuff I had in a drawer in the basement to show what you would be removing if your trying to tear the junk off!








Removed PCV system & pancake valve system - both are the evil oil re-circulators!








Removed Combi valve, SAI pump & bracket. As I said up top my SAI hard lines are in some box downstairs so if your counting crap/weight as you go through these pic's add 1 lbs and 10 unit's of JUNK.








Removed the EVAP system. On the left is what's under the passenger fender, big black resivour in the center is located behind the pass headlight, in front of the power steering resivour. The hard line that runs across the firewall to the turbo inlet pipe is attached to that and there are little random plastic hoses that attached to the rear pipes. 








Here are some photos of the EVAP/FUEL lines that run under the car that I want to remove tomorrow. Does anyone know which is witch? I know I can figure it out but if you know and read this shoot me an IM? Thanks!
















Now it's time to find out what sense's that the EVAP & SAI systems have "Improper flow" and then remove that sensor or trick it. Anyone know this part? My EVAP system has always reported back to my ECU as not ready or busted or whatever, never a code but it never passed readiness checks. I need to get inspected badly this week so after I finish all this up I'm gonna swing by my the mechanic's shop - I think you can fail two readiness test's in NY and these are my two! My secondary oxygen sensor just doesn't work which is why I haven't passed but I hope that will be over-looked and understood that it's not my fault! Freakin' fried ECU!


_Modified by Village_Idiot at 2:49 AM 3-30-2009_


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

holy schit! how in the world did you time for all that?


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## TToxic (Nov 15, 2008)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (Village_Idiot)*

I removed all this crap as well back in 2004, never had a problem with insp. until now -
bad N-80. A resistor wont work here Ive relocated it in cowl,I can tell you it wont pass
with sai off unless its deleted via ecu. The purge pump in the passenger tire well must 
be plugged in, simply remove it from the hidious bracket and use the small flange left
on it to bolt it to a stud up in there. Ive had good luck with this in the past on my 02
1.8t jetta and my 99.5 cabrio but for some reason every several thousand miles and it
varies i get a improper flow with the TT, perhaps BEA is different harder to trick. Iam
thinking something in filler neck maybe a sensor? I also have all the junk in the spare
well gone as well.


_Modified by TToxic at 6:58 AM 3-30-2009_


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## Village_Idiot (Oct 16, 2004)

Ahhh that's nothing. Maybe 8 hours invested so far. Sound proofing the interior is going to take much more time and effort than that!
Drove the Toyota to work today








Someone give me some sick photos to cheer me up lol


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## Village_Idiot (Oct 16, 2004)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (TToxic)*

TToxic - What do you mean all the junk gone in the spare? 
Like the spare tire area and the wrench/screwdriver ect? 
I have entire interior stripped for over a year! Ive been driving around without my lower dash pieces in for almost 2 years now! The car is going to sound entirly different when I get around to sound proofing everything and installing the panels. I don't think I'm going to like it to be honest with ya!
In the past I have a guy who passed me while I didn't have a cat, I know some of you will frown upon this and I won't expose the name or location of the shop but he's a nice guy. I know that the NYS emissions laws have changed and I'm pretty positive you can fail 2 out of the 8 or 10 rediness codes, I can check them with VAG-COM and before I removed anything my SAI reported not ready and EVAP and a few other systems. I'm going to try to resistor up everything but will make it so I can solder in the old connectors if I need to put everything back.
I'm going to look around for this SAI improper flow sensor and EVAP. Since the EVAP system isn't even in there I don't know how it can sense that. There were two connectors for that system and I wonder if the voltage varies per pressure in the system? 
The ONLY reason I didn't pass inspection when I went to a local firestone was because I had a check engine light, the CEL I had was because my secondary oxygen sensor's heater circuit is broken. The wires are perfect I checked them with an ohm meter from the sensor harness to the ECU harness pins. I've swapped the sensors and the problem doesn't follow (they have 30k on them tops, did them a little over a year ago). So I'm kind of out of luck unless I get a new ECU - I must have fried something in it : ( - Anyway I'll plead my case to the jury (mechanic) and see what they can do.
I used to be able to clear the CEL in the parking lot then give them the car and they just see no CEL and that my tires/brakes are in good shape and give me a sticker. Now they need the car to have 50 miles on it I think because they have to plug it into their computer and check your codes. Codes = no pass! - I need to find an old fashioned shop because I can pass the emissions sniffer with a straight pipe I found out!
Seriously considering dropping the Credit card into a T3/T4 with some UNI BT software & deletes and calling it a day! I think my turbo is going to go soon anyway, God damn debt...


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## TToxic (Nov 15, 2008)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (Village_Idiot)*

Yea lol N.Y is getting very serious with this, Iam at the point as to registering & insuring
outta state where I have family & no insp. in their counties. In the rear tire spare well
in the coupe is where all the evap canister & purge valve is, I removed this for a few as well 
who wanted to whack the steel cone back there so they could install a sub & amps. The evap.
canister is hugh and theirs no place to relocate it in the back end.


_Modified by TToxic at 7:45 AM 3-30-2009_


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## 2001TTransport (Sep 18, 2005)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (Village_Idiot)*

Nice pics and details, 
Beware of the small catch can hose ID. I installed an identical unit a few weeks ago and it resulted in blowby out the dipstick. I reverted back to factory and ordered a new catch can with 1" OD inlet and outlet, so leaving the factory 19mm I will be uprating the size to 25mm rather than down sizing.


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## cdougyfresh (Sep 16, 2004)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (2001TTransport)*

wow how old is your dog! he looks like he has one foot in the grave


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## 2001TTransport (Sep 18, 2005)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (TToxic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TToxic* »_ In the rear tire spare well
in the coupe is where all the evap canister & purge valve is, I removed this for a few as well... The evap.
canister is hugh and theirs no place to relocate it in the back end.
_Modified by TToxic at 7:45 AM 3-30-2009_

I have a UNI BT tune and SAI/N79/EVAP/R02 delete, I've cleaned out the engine bay but haven't cleaned out the passenger tire area. Nor the rear spare tire well.
Couple questions:
1. I found after doing away with the evap, that I had to plug the solenoid back in as my LTF (block 032) wouldn't adapt any longer. So within the passenger tire well it sounds like I need to leave that electrical connector plugged in also, as a resistor won't work, Correct?
2. For the rear canister in the spare tire well there is solenoid there also, did you remove the canister and leave the solenoid? What about the three lines back there going to the canister did you plug them or what?
Thanks and by the way for the brake booster line I used a 180hp version Y and changed mine out, pic below.










_Modified by 2001TTransport at 9:21 AM 3-30-2009_


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (2001TTransport)*

Just keep an eye on those Poly's. Mine dropped after 2 days of being installed and they were installed correctly. According to Powerflex - if you car is dropped more than 1" - they will fail due to the orientation of the arms.


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## robingohtt (Nov 6, 2005)

nice writeup mate, its really helpful as I gonna remove my junk next week as well.
kudos for a detailed good reference!


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## skywalkersgti (Mar 27, 2007)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (Village_Idiot)*

your pcv is going to cause your motor to fail. being that the line is 1/2 the size of the already restrictive stock pcv. just a heads up


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## TToxic (Nov 15, 2008)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (2001TTransport)*

As for the n-80 type purge valve(dont recall part #) I brought it back up into the pass.side
quarter area and tucked it in near tail lense area, had to extened wires a little bit but no big 
deal. In regard to the 3 lines - the two 8mm lines are gone there junction point is near the fuel
filter. The 17mm line is my tank vent which is routed down behind the filler neck area, it comes out around the rear tow hook area, never smell gas or have I had any issues. Just like the front
n-8o you must have the rear purge pluged in and operational, I used a pc. of one inch hose and 
a plug on the rear valve to enclose it so it dosent throw a cell, to fool it that is. you'll see what I
mean when ya get to it. I wish now I took pics of all this shhesh!


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## TToxic (Nov 15, 2008)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> ([email protected])*

Just curious do you think failure is brought on by a very low suspension setting? I ask because
I had the ECS bushings in for well over a year with eibachs never a problem and only removed
them due to the horror stories. They where perfect when I pulled em and am considering 
another set thanks.


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (TToxic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TToxic* »_Just curious do you think failure is brought on by a very low suspension setting? I ask because I had the ECS bushings in for well over a year with eibachs never a problem and only removed them due to the horror stories. They where perfect when I pulled em and am considering another set thanks.

Well I honestly can only relay what I heard from the manufacturer and yes - the lower you go the more extreme the angle on the arm. Eibachs do not lower you more than 1" so that is most likely why yours were ok. I know of another person with them along with Bilstein/Eibach and there's are fine as well. I'm only lowered maybe 1.25". 
I've got a set in a box for the whole control arm hardly used


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## Village_Idiot (Oct 16, 2004)

Joe I sent you an IM...
Do I need to remove this N80 assembly now or is this something I can do down the road?
I'd LOVE to install a sub in that center section with a box under the car that would be genius! I can still have a rear tire just need a different way to secure it down!
I really wish you took photos too! I'll be looking into this. How to I access it? Do I need to cut the spare tire wheel well center section off now? Can I just remove the exhaust and metal shield (mine's off already) and remove that thing from below?
Looks like the car will be in the garage for two weeks now! I want to get this all just right!


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (2001TTransport)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2001TTransport* »_
1. I found after doing away with the evap, that I had to plug the solenoid back in as my LTF (block 032) wouldn't adapt any longer. So within the passenger tire well it sounds like I need to leave that electrical connector plugged in also, as a resistor won't work, Correct?


Ha, I am having the exact same problem as of today. I am having problems adapting my fuel trims and has been suspected that evap silenoid is the culprit. I need to check it out though. Where is the slenoid that needs to be pluged in?


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (Village_Idiot)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Village_Idiot* »_
Here are some photos of the EVAP/FUEL lines that run under the car that I want to remove tomorrow. Does anyone know which is witch? I know I can figure it out but if you know and read this shoot me an IM? Thanks!


White is evap per the "cleaning up the engine bay" thread in the 1.8t technical section

_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_Now all that is left are those white lines that are sticking out the top of the container in the back of the engine bay. Get under the passenger side of the car and start unclipping them from the underbody. The white ones ONLY. The black/blue are fuel. Go all the way back to near the fuel filter by the rear wheel. Just disconnect the fittings, and then pull the white lines from the front of the car down and out. You may have to pop the black cover off the top of the canister to properly get those lines out. It's kinda hard to pop off without breaking it but...w/e. And that's it. EVAP is gone. Put a 330ohm resistor on the harness and you shouldn't throw a code.



_Modified by jwalker1.8 at 4:47 PM 3-30-2009_


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## TToxic (Nov 15, 2008)

*Re: (Village_Idiot)*

Drop muffler and remove heat shield, you will see the evap.canister assembly bottom.
Unbolt it drop it then cut out the cone. You dont want to damage the rear purge because your
going to need it, cutting without removal risks this. Subs sound killer in this area. This is
also how i got extra room for my battery.


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## TToxic (Nov 15, 2008)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (jwalker1.8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jwalker1.8* »_
Ha, I am having the exact same problem as of today. I am having problems adapting my fuel trims and has been suspected that evap silenoid is the culprit. I need to check it out though. Where is the slenoid that needs to be pluged in?

N-112 for sai needs to be plugged in or a resistor.


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (TToxic)*

I have the UNI 630 BT file and all that stuff deleted. Adam told me I am having adaptation problems most likely because my evap solenoid is not plugged in...I am unsure what he is talking about exactly (car is not in front of me to go look)...anyone have a picture? All I know is it is near the coolant reservoir.


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## TToxic (Nov 15, 2008)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (jwalker1.8)*

N-80 In front of power steering res.


_Modified by TToxic at 8:01 PM 3-30-2009_


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (TToxic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TToxic* »_N-80 In front of power steering res.

_Modified by TToxic at 8:01 PM 3-30-2009_

Thank you sir...I can find that.


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## Village_Idiot (Oct 16, 2004)

So resistors need to be in these or the N80 in front of the power steering resivour has to be plugged in? A resistor won't fill in it's place? I have no problem doing that, as long as it doesn't need to be connected to all that crap!


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## TToxic (Nov 15, 2008)

*Re: (Village_Idiot)*

I've never had luck with any resistors for the n-8o or rear purge, I leave just them 
plugged in.You can pull the wire for the front n-8o back up into cowl area and zip tie it 
off. And put vac plugs on both ends this is what has worked well for me.
Connected to what crap lol throw it in the garbage where it belongs theirs no turning 
back now!



_Modified by TToxic at 8:42 PM 3-30-2009_


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## 2001TTransport (Sep 18, 2005)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (jwalker1.8)*

The solenoid in question used to sit on top of the evap canister in your bay next to the power steering res. I pulled mine back to where the lines used to come through the firewall and plugged it back in there and wrapped it up nicely.


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## Village_Idiot (Oct 16, 2004)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (2001TTransport)*

So were not talking about the solenoid under the passenger fender, it's the one under the hood by the power steering resivour - just to clarify, right? 
So these are the updated photos. I took a break from the under hood stuff since it's pretty much done except for that oil catch can which I'm going to have a friend TIG weld me up a metal box and I'll drill and tap it and maybe make it a perfect shape to bolt to the frame rail under the car that way nobody will see it and I can drain it very clean and stuff when I change my oil every 5k. This also gives me the opertunity to use the proper sized hoses and have gravity help bring the oil down the two feed lines as well and pressure will push air back up to the turbo inlet pipe. Couldn't I just pop an air filter on the catch can to let the pressure out? Seems that way at least in my head, but I won't be doing that unless it's a good idea of course!
I started doing a hardcore dynomatt job and did one door so far. Removed the window assembly. I have SOME photos of it out but I made the mistake of accidently deleting a few from the memory card. I will post them up when I’m home since they are there. 









In the photos I installed a new Auxiliary water pump from MJMAutohaus. 

































































Began making my boost gauge mount which I just realized doesn’t need ANY of the rows of lovours’ from the dashboard covers cut out at all, just two tabs need to be bent (im pointing at them bellow). I’ll be done with this soon, I spent an hour on it or more so I needed to take a break. I want to make the end product 100% perfect. Also I need to buy a new dash cover – anyone have one!? I’m going to paint the metal bracket black so you cant see it I hope!









































































I removed the carpet so I can remove the wires for the OEM Bose amp and run RCA’s, amp turn on lead & front speaker wires in it’s place under the carpet where it’s super stealth and away from any power wire. I have metal that I’m going to make an extension to the OEM Bose amp bracket to accommodate my kicker amp so it will be secured and hidden when the interior panels are back on. Found an OEM build sheet (second one now! First was above the headliner) I love finding this stuff!!!!









































































































Otherwise here’s my buddies RSX I’m driving now and boxes of parts I’m protecting & I finished up the B&M short shifter last night. It feels freaking excellent and I will be selling my orbit shift knob since it’s not compatible along with my OEM shift rod since I drilled two holes in it so the orbit knob (or any three bolt system) never moves, also the rod is chopped and makes things look much better IMO. 
































Oh and the N80 out of the rear of the car the big ass canister everyone talks about above that’s under the rear tire area above the OEM muffler location. Once again I have more detailed photos at home.


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (Village_Idiot)*

You can definitly just put a filter on your catch can to release crankcase pressure. I have a hose coming of the block and off the valve cover...no catch can, just two longer hoses pointed straight at the ground


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## Village_Idiot (Oct 16, 2004)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (jwalker1.8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jwalker1.8* »_You can definitly just put a filter on your catch can to release crankcase pressure. I have a hose coming of the block and off the valve cover...no catch can, just two longer hoses pointed straight at the ground

Sounds "environmentally friendly" 
don't you drip oil everywhere? I don't think my mom would like that idea so much in say our driveway or any of my friend's homes as well...
but sounds like a cheap way to get the job done lol 
OH and UPDATE: * for those of you looking for the correct catch can sizes and all and a DAMN good price check out http://www.thedubnutz.com and buy theirs- I'll be verifying it's fitment and sizes this weekend or next week with photos and a good mounting location! *
http://www.shop.thedubnutz.com...d=166 <exact link to their oil catch can - looks to be quality with the right size fitting. That and I've met the owner of this store a bunch of times. Stand up guy.


_Modified by Village_Idiot at 4:52 PM 4-7-2009_


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## TToxic (Nov 15, 2008)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (Village_Idiot)*

Its lookin real good, like what you did with the dash top tweeters. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (TToxic)*

This post just made a huge contribution with those "gutted' pics, thanks a lot...I haven't had the courage to do it myself







I might considering the salt build-up on my carpet


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (Village_Idiot)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Village_Idiot* »_
Sounds "environmentally friendly" 
don't you drip oil everywhere? I don't think my mom would like that idea so much in say our driveway or any of my friend's homes as well...
but sounds like a cheap way to get the job done lol 


Edit: if you increase HP over stock it doesn't hurt to use an even larger diameter hose
No, it doesn't drip oil all over the driveway. The reason you end up with oil coming out of your pcv system is due to too much back pressure. Make sure the inner diameter of the hoses you use are not smaller than stock. Too much back pressure will result in a blown bottom end. The pcv is there to release gas pressure from your crankcase...gas that doesn't see the the cat = not environmentally friendly. If you do it properly you won't have to worry about pissing off your mom...maybe Al Gore though

















_Modified by jwalker1.8 at 5:23 PM 4-7-2009_


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (skywalkersgti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *skywalkersgti* »_your pcv is going to cause your motor to fail. being that the line is 1/2 the size of the already restrictive stock pcv. just a heads up

Agreed... This pic you posted as well as the one that follow it will result in more harm than good IMO...It is your car, do what you like but think like this...more back pressure into your block the slower pistons will move up and down = less power...more pressure in your block = more strain on rings, seals, gaskets...
http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 








Here it becomes more clear, pressurized gasses coming from the right and left of the T trying to fight each other threw a restrictive point....not being a dick, just pointing out something you may or possibly may not regret.








Here is mine...the hose that comes off the valve cover and where it appears to come to a V those two hoses are zip tied together and run to the ground...not meant to be "cheaper" but more effectve.


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (jwalker1.8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jwalker1.8* »_
Here is mine...the hose that comes off the valve cover and where it appears to come to a V those two hoses are zip tied together and run to the ground...not meant to be "cheaper" but more effectve.









However you could just route that to a vented Catch Can right?


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## TToxic (Nov 15, 2008)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (jwalker1.8)*

If you look inside of the 19mm id bung coming out of the valve cover (I have removed many)
its not 19mm on the other end (inside valve cover) the diameter on this end is 13 mm id.The
smaller hose will not cause a problem especially if its connected to the tip which btw the 
ECU/MAF is counting on this return of air flow.


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (TToxic)*

Joe, yes. The point is going smaller is not a good thing, that is all.

_Quote, originally posted by *TToxic* »_If you look inside of the 19mm id bung coming out of the valve cover (I have removed many)
its not 19mm on the other end (inside valve cover) the diameter on this end is 13 mm id.The
smaller hose will not cause a problem especially if its connected to the tip which btw the 
ECU/MAF is counting on this return of air flow.


Counting on it...arguable...monitored? yes. Good thing about our ecu's are they are adaptive...Like I said, it's his car not mine...just giving my .02 It's nothing new that resticting the PCV system is not good and raised hp over stock doesn't hurt to have a bit better ventilation as well.

Seen here is an example of how important ventilation is


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (jwalker1.8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jwalker1.8* »_Joe, yes. The point is going smaller is not a good thing, that is all.


I've been looking into doing a catch can myself and have seen numerous posts but most don't have alot of detail as to how they are implemented. I guess it comes down to keeping the PCV system or not as well as whether you want to direct it back to the TIP or vent to the air.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> ([email protected])*

Here is good, old info from me: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3782382. These pics should help (I dumped the BMC http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif)...you can plainly see the valve-cover to CC connection (yes I need a better one) and the steel elbow connects to another 90* elbow which is installed in the block breather with an adapter from 034motorsports. I just mounted the catch can on my battery box. Its a dual-inlet full aluminum CC with a properly baffled outlet neck, good stuff and only $65 on eBay. Hint: remove the intake manifold for easy install. BTW, its amazing how far my engine cleaning efforts have gone








Last weekend:








Last year:











_Modified by l88m22vette at 6:33 PM 4-7-2009_


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_Here is good, old info from me: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3782382. These pics should help (I dumped the BMC http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif)...you can plainly see the valve-cover to CC connection (yes I need a better one) and the steel elbow connects to another 90* elbow which is installed in the block breather with an adapter from 034motorsports. I just mounted the catch can on my battery box. Its a dual-inlet full aluminum CC with a properly baffled outlet neck, good stuff and only $65 on eBay. Hint: remove the intake manifold for easy install. BTW, its amazing how far my engine cleaning efforts have gone










So - the hose routing - I see the hose coming off the valve cover - but the top one - that goes to the TIP right? The one on the other side - goes back under the intake to connect to the PCV system?


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
I've been looking into doing a catch can myself and have seen numerous posts but most don't have alot of detail as to how they are implemented. I guess it comes down to keeping the PCV system or not as well as whether you want to direct it back to the TIP or vent to the air.

Joe, there are actually three options.
1. vent to atmosphere
2. vent to intake stream (TIP)
3. vent to exhaust
I personally would choose 3 but since it's not very practical I choose 1. Think of it this way, air and fuel mix to create power. Why reroute burnt gasses and possibly bits of oil into a stream of fresh air? This makes for a diluted mixture of air and fuel and which in return can cause detonation and timing pull. It may not be significant to a person who just drives the car for fun, but to someone who say, tracks his car, every bit of power counts...we know timing pull = less power.
Joe, if you want to go with the catch can route the diagram below is very simple to understand. One hose from the block, one hose from the valve cover, put a T in place to the inlet of the catch can, and the outlet will go to the TIP. If things are done properly you will have virtually no oil in the can.









EDIT: The drawing above would have the T eliminated if the catch can were a nice one like vette has with two inlets.


_Modified by jwalker1.8 at 6:47 PM 4-7-2009_


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (jwalker1.8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jwalker1.8* »_
Joe, there are actually three options.
1. vent to atmosphere
2. vent to intake stream (TIP)
3. vent to exhaust
I personally would choose 3 but since it's not very practical I choose 1. Think of it this way, air and fuel mix to create power. Why reroute burnt gasses and possibly bits of oil into a stream of fresh air? This makes for a diluted mixture of air and fuel and which in return can cause detonation and timing pull. It may not be significant to a person who just drives the car for fun, but to someone who say, tracks his car, every bit of power counts...we know timing pull = less power.
Joe, if you want to go with the catch can route the diagram below is very simple to understand. One hose from the block, one hose from the valve cover, put a T in place to the inlet of the catch can, and the outlet will go to the TIP. If things are done properly you will have virtually no oil in the can.
EDIT: The drawing above would have the T eliminated if the catch can were a nice one like vette has with two inlets.


As for the venting - that is what I thought - either back in or to the atmosphere are the two most common methods. The only connection that I get confused on is the one that you show going to the oil filter housing. Isn't that where the PCV is coming off of? It's always hard to see the connection because it's under the intake manifold.
I would assume with a catch can you really don't need the PCV.


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
I would assume with a catch can you really don't need the PCV.

Right, there is a plastic piece that comes out of the block (pic below) just take all the crap that is attached to off and put a hose to the T or catch can (depending on which style can you go with) and you're done
elbow piece in the top left is the stock piece under your manifold...just disconnect all the crap from it and attach a hose/ done


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (jwalker1.8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jwalker1.8* »_
Right, there is a plastic piece that comes out of the block (pic below) just take all the crap that is attached to off and put a hose to the T or catch can (depending on which style can you go with) and you're done
elbow piece in the top left is the stock piece under your manifold...just disconnect all the crap from it and attach a hose/ done









Ok - that makes sense. Thanks. I think i'll tackle this when I do my cam tensioner seal which is leaking pretty bad.


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## TToxic (Nov 15, 2008)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (jwalker1.8)*

Do i understand correctly? your not using the PCV valve itself, your deleting it?


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (TToxic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TToxic* »_Do i understand correctly? your not using the PCV valve itself, your deleting it?

Bingo! 
I guess the only other thing is the brake boost (forgot to mention). Just run a hose directly to the large port on the intake mani.


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## TToxic (Nov 15, 2008)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (jwalker1.8)*

FWIW and probrobly not much, I've seen first hand the end result of PCV delete on quite
a few d/drivers chip mods etc. Its not pleasant, you must evacuate the pressure tip or
exhaust is not enough. In the photo above it shows just how important it is. For the strip
its awesome on the street in traffic its gonna stink like hell. Not flaming ya just the 2 cents
thing.









I think you would be pretty amazed at what damage pressure can do.


_Modified by TToxic at 9:22 PM 4-7-2009_


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (TToxic)*

I think you miss just how this valve works. It's more or less just a check valve (makes it so the air can only flow one direction). Under regular driving the gasses are sucked into the TIP out of the crank case...the pcv check valve allows vacuum to pull the air from the crank case back into the system to be burned up in the aif fuel mixture instead. Venting directly to the atmpsphere with no vacuum source is nothing new. In fact all cars used to be vented this way...just since emission laws were put into place were rerouted pcv systems installed.


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## TToxic (Nov 15, 2008)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (jwalker1.8)*

Under normal driving conditions the PCV valve is pulling doing most of the work/ when in boost the 
PCV valve slams shut this is when the tip or exhaust route take over. Granted the cars of the past 
did not have this type of system ( I can only speak in regard to foreign) the 4 cylinders of the past
didnt put out this level of performance either.And for the few that did they all leaked like a 
screen door on a submarine why? pressure not evacuating, had a dual purpose system such as ours
been implemented everyone who owned such a car wouldnt of had a driveway that looked like a lube service center. What I've done is added a very small Jegs catch can between the PCV valve
and intake manifold it addresses the oil contaminating etc. works excellent. Simply another alternative.


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## Village_Idiot (Oct 16, 2004)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (jwalker1.8)*

Jwalker are you from long island? That's Eddie's car from Force Fed Engineering in deer park isn't it! I know the guy loosely and was down there for a dyno day awhile ago as well where I took photos of it in stripped mode. Nice paint for a track car I must say! I saw his extreme ventilation system and it looked nice - but overdone for a stock turbo (which he is definitely not!).
Okay if I understand correctly I have two high pressure areas (valve cover and oil filter block) that produce a little oil buildup that the stock PCV system routes through a number of vacuum lines that we could have leaks in and then feeds that oil right back into our turbo inlet pipe AFTER the MAF therefore this air isn't metered by anything other than the MAP sensor and throttle body I guess. 
On my first post of photos I AM DOING THIS ALL WRONG- just for those reading the thread now or catching up/looking to do this themselves. Once again if I understand correctly I have the correct methods and routing system - just incorrectly sized hoses.
My current plan is as follows...
The input:
I'm going to run the 3/4" tubing from the valve cover and from the oil filter housing. This is the same size as the tubing that was coming off of it before, maybe 1 or 2mm smaller inside diameter. So I'm going to take those two positive leads and run them to a larger rectangular catch can that I'm going to have TIG welded and mount it to the frame rail under the car for the stealth option and easy drainage. This will have gravity work for me and let that oil trickle down the pipes with the pressure. 
The output:
I'm going to run TWO 3/4" or larger lines from the catch can to the two ports on my turbo inlet pipe that have been free'd up from the deletes I just did.
Output 1: The port by the brake resivour and booster had an EVAP line running to it. This was a 1/2" port so I'll be using a line that's going to fit into it.
Output 2: The port that the flat black pancake style valve came off the valve cover, connected to the PCV system and vented it into the TIP. That port is bigger than 3/4 so I'll be measuring and using a larger hose.
This setup solves a few problems that are mentioned above.
1. Doesn't vent to the atm. - causing smell and possible oil drippings!
2. Doesn't throw the system off IF this air is metered. It will be returning to the same place as the stock system formerly did.
3. There won't be any additional pressure inside the motor since both my inlet and output lines will be the same size.
4. Eliminates the entire stock stupidity that is our PCV system.
5. Takes that oil muck out of the system and hopefully makes the car run better in the long run. Cause this car's in it for the long haul!
Also the stock PCV system is VERY VERY restricting. I find it difficult to believe that my 3/4" lines won't sufficient enough. For those of you who haven't seen it take a look at that snake system of lines that I labeled in my OP. Although there are a lot of smaller lines the PCV valve itself also has very small ports. It ties in a lot of ridiculous things together and by doing this I think I'm just simplifying what the system does without having a buildup of oil in my intake/IC piping tract - like I do now! Also hopefully it saves my MAF a little too from oil hell.

My modified diagram - my custom catch can will have a total of 5 holes in it. 2 for input, 2 for output and 1 for drainage with a plug in it on the bottom.











_Modified by Village_Idiot at 10:58 AM 4-8-2009_


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (Village_Idiot)*

sounds and looks like you got it.
For those who still don't quite get how the systems works this is a good description...>>> http://cjsupra.kendra.com/PCV-Can.html
Also shows where to buy this can that lets you vent to the atmosphere as well as drain from the bottom and cost is just over 40 bux.
front








back


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## TToxic (Nov 15, 2008)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (jwalker1.8)*

What happened to the small diameter fitting theory, the id on the fittings in your
pic are 7mm. Considerably smaller than what you originally said was not of a desired 
diameter.Your description of how the 1.8t PCV system works is not accurate, what everyones
opinion is on how to improve it is something else altogether. My last post on the topic.


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (TToxic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TToxic* »_What happened to the small diameter fitting theory, the id on the fittings in your
pic are 7mm. Considerably smaller than what you originally said was not of a desired 
diameter.Your description of how the 1.8t PCV system works is not accurate, what everyones
opinion is on how to improve it is something else altogether. My last post on the topic.









The one thing I've learned in this thread - is that there are numerous ways to do this depending on your application


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> ([email protected])*

There is not kit or specific parts you need, it will ultimately depend on which catch can you get. Just cobble it together, get the parts together, and go for it. Just have a friend handy to get the random fitting or hose you might need...


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## Village_Idiot (Oct 16, 2004)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
The one thing I've learned in this thread - is that there are numerous ways to do this depending on your application










definitely!


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## Village_Idiot (Oct 16, 2004)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (Village_Idiot)*

The last few day's subwoofer install. I still need to run the 10gauge speaker wire for the unit through the stock hole in the floor of the spare tire where the haldex controller get's connected through. Then fiberglass up the walls as well as the bottom with a nice thick layer! Probably try for 3/4 - 1" of glass on the bottom and the walls just need a thin coating because I don't think that metal is going to flex too much, it's there just to reinforce the sound a bit. I'll have to find the time to post more photos sooner or later. Not that anybody is tracking this topic, just cause I like pictures.
I know the circles aren't perfect, if you can't tell by the pic's I did everything free hand with a compass. I have a circle cutting tool but it just didn't work out for this application. Screw it.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: SAI/N249/EVAP/N112/JUNK removal & audio instal & other stuff>PICS> (Village_Idiot)*

Please lower your pics' resolution








Looks good, creative install, but will just fiberglass seal that? You could weld a round plate on the underbody and spray it with POR-15


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## 1badg35 (Oct 6, 2008)

looking good Doug. sorry i was not around this weekend much. weather sucked, and after all of the time working on my buddys z, i didnt even get to have the rear wiper shaved







im hoping during the week one night to get it done, so i can start getting ready for the shows. when are you planning on doing the fiberglass? i will come and assist. looks like the car is coming back together!


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## Village_Idiot (Oct 16, 2004)

*Re: (1badg35)*

Thanks guys
Vince - Oh I'm going to need 100% assistance doing that fiberglass! I'm thinking about making a cardboard cutout of the exact shape of the hole, since it's far from round. Dropping the rear subframe and trans/suspension in the process, probably just disconnect the six pickup points (4 subframe bolts, front of the control arm toe adjustment and the rear strut to body bolt) just to get it out of our way. Also I can clean it up ect, I need an alignment back there anyway after this winter & the adjustments. Anyway take the cardboard cutout and make a piece of wood, use the 4 existing holes to bolt it in then could we fiberglass over that? Mostly to protect it from the heat of the muffler and fill in the cracks?


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## Rideforlife_33 (Oct 18, 2008)

*Re: (Village_Idiot)*

I have a question I have a 1.8t AWP, and the bottom PCV hose has to holes. One connecting to elbow and one to that valve thing. When I install my catch can does the one with the valve hook directly to my catch can?


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## Village_Idiot (Oct 16, 2004)

*Re: (Rideforlife_33)*

So wrapping things up! I cleaned the garage out yesterday. The drive shaft bolt I snapped in half came out and I took the driveshaft out too. I'm deciding if I'm going to use the dual-tip muffler or use two resonators in line and use twin tips center exit Porsche boxter style exhaust. What do you guys think? I pulled the evap lines out from the bottom of the car they were about twelve feet long, not much weight savings but it makes me happy inside. I fitted the spray painted rear valence that Vince gave me (1badG35) and it looks great! I'd kind of like this exhaust to be my last one so I don't know what I'm going to do. Spare tire fit's perfectly with a 2" spacer between the tire and the car floor. The cover might even fit on perfectly. Now I need to put some brackets in and probably use bungie cords to hold the tire down to the floor. Before that happens I need to cut the wood to fill in the bottom of the subwoofer and have someone fiberglass it up! Vince, Raj, Pete get your asses over here! Also turbo is rebuild and everything lined back up and worked out fine.
So sum it all up...
Doing this today..
Bolt turbo back in and all oil lines, finish polishing IM & Charge piping and bolt that all back together too.
Recenter intercooler
Bolt on downpipe
Bolt on driveshaft
Bolt on subframe
Put the metal plating back under the car and put the shifter box together
Figure out exhaust solution and put a drivers seat in the car and rip it around town for a month without an interior boom bam I have a TT again! **** YEA!!!!









































































__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


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## cruzanstx (Oct 10, 2011)

Trying to do EVAP delete on tt225q can't really find any writeups except this one but the pics are dead. Anyone know of others? the other one shows blueballs that arent anywhere on the 225's


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

The 225 has them under the pass. side fender liner :thumbup:


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