# Front brake replace questions



## bert06040 (Feb 10, 2011)

The front brakes on my '05 passat need to be replaced. I am fully aware of the need to replace the rotors as well as the pads. After extensive phone calls to several local dealerships and independent shops, I was shocked at the prices I was quoted, $400 to $550. This led me to the decision to maybe do the job myself. So, now I have several questions. When I replace the pads, do I need to apply anti squeal grease? When tightening the caliper bolts, do I need to tighten them to a specific torque? Where can I purchase a torque tool? Also, I keep reading about a special retracting tool used to retract the calipers, does this tool apply to the fronts? Also, if I choose to go aftermarket, can someone recommend a good reliable brand? Nothing racey. Just looking for something of good quality and not too expensive. My vehicle is a V6 2.8 GLX 4motion wagon. Do I need to specify this when ordering the pads and rotors? Thanks for all the help. eace:


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## DC Jetta Guy (Jul 31, 2004)

1. Yes. You should clean and re-grease all moving parts > caliper pins etc.
2. Yes. Use a torque wrench on all brake parts. Get a Bentley manual for exact specs.
3. Brembo standard replacement rotors will do fine. Regarding pads, everyone here seems to favor Hawk HPS, altho I have never tried them. I've had Hawk Performance Ceramic pads on my GLI for several years and they work very well for daily driving.

If you're planning on ordering parts online:
MJM, ECS, Tirerack. All good places and I have ordered from all of them.

Good luck!


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## Little Golf Mklll (Nov 27, 2007)

bert06040 said:


> The front brakes on my '05 passat need to be replaced. I am fully aware of the need to replace the rotors as well as the pads. After extensive phone calls to several local dealerships and independent shops, I was shocked at the prices I was quoted, $400 to $550. This led me to the decision to maybe do the job myself. So, now I have several questions. When I replace the pads, do I need to apply anti squeal grease? When tightening the caliper bolts, do I need to tighten them to a specific torque? Where can I purchase a torque tool? Also, I keep reading about a special retracting tool used to retract the calipers, does this tool apply to the fronts? Also, if I choose to go aftermarket, can someone recommend a good reliable brand? Nothing racey. Just looking for something of good quality and not too expensive. My vehicle is a V6 2.8 GLX 4motion wagon. Do I need to specify this when ordering the pads and rotors? Thanks for all the help. eace:


Rotors only need to be replaced if you have run the brakes down to metal on metal or they are to thin too turn. Although the optimal choice is always to replace, it is not necessary.

The "special" retracting tool only applies to the rears as they are a ratcheting type e brake integrated into the caliper.

Grease needs to be applied to the caliper slide pins,caliper/brake pad slides, and anywhere the brake pad contacts the caliper.

And Hawk HPS FTW.


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## bert06040 (Feb 10, 2011)

*Thanks for the feedback*

One other question though. I read on another post that the bleeder screws on the calipers need to be loosened in order to relieve pressure when retracting the caliper. The post stated that this needed to be done in order to prevent damage to the ABS system. Is this a necessary step? I've done other brakes in the past, but never bled the system.


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

bert06040 said:


> One other question though. I read on another post that the bleeder screws on the calipers need to be loosened in order to relieve pressure when retracting the caliper. The post stated that this needed to be done in order to prevent damage to the ABS system. Is this a necessary step? I've done other brakes in the past, but never bled the system.


Replacing the front brakes isn't super hard job..but please do a bit of study B4 pickin up your wrenches! There are some good DIY write ups here and on Passat World websites..search those out and print 'em out to follow along as you go..
VW doesn't leave much "meat" on the rotors to turn em anymore..probably to save weight and get better MPG....So buy new rotors...for the Passat they aren't super expensive anyway..try Autohaus AZ they carry good OEM quality rotors ATE, Brembo, Meyle, Zimmerman etc and PBR Deluz Pads (free shippin for $50 order so heavy rotors aren't a concern!)..that's what I ran..as I recall I did all 4 wheels for under $300 last time I did my Passat's brakes.
You'll need some "synthetic caliper grease" and some "brake quiet", and a can of "BrakeCleen" all of which you can pick up at your local AutoZone etc.
grease goes on caliper slide pins (after you clean em and use q tip to clean the bores they slide in with Brake Cleen).
Brake quiet is a goo you put on pad backs to eliminate squeal.
You'll need torques for guide pins and caliper carrier bolts..as I recall the pins are in the 25 ft lb range and the bolts are way tighter..like 90 ft lbs...wheel lugs are also 90ft lbs or so, but check those out in a shop manual to confirm.
You do not have to loosen bleeder screws, just use a big "c clam and block of wood on the piston to retract. I would take a turkey baster and suck just a bit of fluid outa the MC tank so it doesn't overflow and ruin the paint in your engine compartment as the pistons retract. Use Brake Cleen to wipe down the new rotors good B4 you install calipers....some mfgs coat the rotors with corrosion preventer and you dont wanna burn that into your pads! Brake jobs are a DIY project that with a bit of study can be done very ez and save $$$ on a Sat morning!


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## EuroSportChicago (Jun 9, 2010)

+1,

With a set of hand tools and the compression tool, read a few DIY's and take your time you can tackle this on your own.


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## N_Flames (Feb 14, 2011)

*Repace the Brake Fluid*

Talking about brakes one of the most neglected parts of an auto until you feel or hear something. One of the most important system if you want to keep yourself or your car from injury or your insurance rates down.
A good test to see if you've been neglecting the maintenance of your brake system, is if your brake fluid is no longer clear. Is it tan or brown, the darker the color is the more moisture content it contains. Any amount of moisture is bad for your brake system it causes corrosion in you brake system. In your master Cly if in the process of pumping your brake pedal for bleeding the brakes or having to step extra hard, it will run the seals across the build up of pitting, gum, varnish that's has been building up for years & damaging the master Cly seals, which will soon fail when you need to stop. It will corrode every part of the system causing premature failure. Moisture in the fluid will also cause sticking caliper pistons due to corrosion & air pockets to form in calipers or lines due to lowering the boiling point of the fluid causing air bubbles. The brake fluid is anhydrous / hygroscopic it attracts moisture from the air through platic,rubber seals, rubber hoses & even while its at the auto parts store.

(" Brake fluids are by nature hygroscopic which means they absorb water from the air (humidity, like magnet attracts the metal shavings). Due to this property the brake fluid became corrosive. There is an increasing awareness of the dangers of water induced corrosion in the modern brake/traction/dynamic stability control systems.")
Taken from > http://techmax.ca/brake_fluid_service.htm


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## STVR6 (Jul 6, 2010)

ATE or Pagid pads for OEM-like performance. 




bert06040 said:


> Also, if I choose to go aftermarket, can someone recommend a good reliable brand? Nothing racey. Just looking for something of good quality and not too expensive. My vehicle is a V6 2.8 GLX 4motion wagon. Do I need to specify this when ordering the pads and rotors? Thanks for all the help. eace:


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