# Lubro Moly Motor Oil Saver



## Jon718 (Aug 14, 2007)

Anyone have any experience using this? I just brought some from GA but would like some feedback.


My 1.8T jetta currently uses about 1 qt every 1300 miles (which is pretty good) but i would prefer little orno oil consumption. Just wanted to know if the folks on Vortex have any comments about this product?


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## AudiSportA4 (Mar 3, 2002)

Most 1.8ts don't burn oil. Most motor fixes in a can don't work. Better to fix the oil consumption at the source and then use a proper oil.

Have you done an intake cleaning or piston soak? How well is the PCV system functioning? What oil are you currently using?


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## Jon718 (Aug 14, 2007)

Mine was burning a qt every 1k until I realized that my cooling fan was dead (i thought that was the A/C fan). Since replacement of my cooling fan oil consumption has stopped considerably.

I have done neither an intake cleaning or piston soak. Can you give me details on how to perform one?

Oil - I am using Shell Rotella T Syn 5W40 with a large passat filter. 




AudiSportA4 said:


> Most 1.8ts don't burn oil. Most motor fixes in a can don't work. Better to fix the oil consumption at the source and then use a proper oil.
> 
> Have you done an intake cleaning or piston soak? How well is the PCV system functioning? What oil are you currently using?


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## AudiSportA4 (Mar 3, 2002)

This picks up in the middle of what I was typing for piston soak instructions and some other stuff for a Jetta 2.0...


You could also add some 2-cycle oil (TCW-3) to the fuel at 500:1, a little extra the first time.

Another technique is to try and free the caked piston rings a bit by soaking the tops with a mix of light oils and solvent, 2-3oz poured cleanly into the sparkplug holes. Crank the engine w/o plugs, taking care to not let dirt pour back into cylinder w/rags stuffed in or pre-cleaning the area. Let sit overnight, crank some more and then after replacing the plugs if possible do an intake cleaning, a "Seafoam Cleaning" (but Berryman's B-12 is better, some say water is best!). Soaking the crud with solvents (Berryman's, Seafoam, Gumout) and oil (Marvel Myst or even the 2-cycle) allows it to detach from the metals as the oil soaks in rather than trying to dissolve everything.


Anyway, 
Few oils would burn less than Rotella Synth 5w-40. I say try a switch-up to Mobil 1 High-Miles 10w-30. If you see really cold temps, try the 5w-30. They are both thick 30s with Euro specs, just about the best product for VAGs right now and cheap at W*M. 

A regular solvent flush of 1q of diesel or Kero in the old oil at idle for 10 min is good. Drain it out and install the new oil. After the piston soak, do a "seafoam cleaning" of the intake...a small hose connected to the brake booster line(s) while you rev the engine, you dip the connected hose into a can of Seafoam or whatever intake cleaner you use...a little bit at a time. Water is actually very good. You should search out some other threads on the Seafoam(ing).

Oh, do the solvent flush in the old oil last. Overnight piston soak -> intake cleaning -> crankcase solvent flush-> new oil and filter.


Check your whole PCV or modify it or try a catchcan.

lmk if you want more info.


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## Jon718 (Aug 14, 2007)

Ok just wanted to rehash this thread, the tips you gave me seem like an excellent idea. However, I am not overly confident in my ability to perform the steps you have mentioned, I may at one point have a friend who is much more capable then me to perform the steps you have mentioned. 


Right now, I am considering dropping the Oil Save product into my engine as I am about to do an oil change in another 300 miles. So, I am curious if anyone else has used this product before?


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## Jon718 (Aug 14, 2007)

Wanted to report back on my usage of this product. it was dumped in with my Rotella T 5W40 syn with about 5000 miles on the oil. I had it in for about 800 miles and noticed dramatic improvements in reducing oil consumption. When I changed the oil I did notice the oil was a lot more thicker (which is what the product is supposed to do). I'm not sure if I would use this in the winter as I want my oil to be thinner ( I changed to M1 0W40 for winter). The next test is to see if the Oil Saver used with the Rotella helps to reduce my oil consumption (since its supposed to rejuvenate the seals).


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## saaber2 (Jul 15, 2008)

This post from Rolf on BITOG sums it up pretty well IMO. I remember one of the oil leak products had an outrageously high viscosity. I would be worried about the oil bypassing the filter if it were too thick. I don't know what the viscosity of the Lubro Moly product is though, just a heads up.

Refering to Rolf's 3 items below, it appears the lubro-moly product attempts to do the first 2 (seal swell and thicken the oil) "LIQUI MOLY Motor Oil Additive Liqui Moly Motor Oil Saver Raises oil viscosity and regenerates rubber & plastic engine seals to reduce oil consumption. (300 ml. Can)"

From Rolf:

"There are basically three approaches to non-repair oil leak reduction:

- add something (e.g., a solvent) to the oil to make the seals and gaskets swell

- use oil so thick it runs out the leaks slower

- clean whatever is allowing oil to seep around a seal out with something (e.g., Auto-Rx)

The first usually causes seals to fail eventually. Making a seal swell further than it was designed to compromises its integrity.

The second causes engine wear on cold starts and lower gas mileage once the car is operating.

The last doesn't do any damage at all and, if crud in a seal is the problem, could extend seal life considerably."


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## AudiJunkie (Jun 19, 2009)

1q every 1300 miles is NOTHING.

Try the Mobil 1 High Miles .


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## Jon718 (Aug 14, 2007)

Is there a M1 High Mileage that is synthetic?


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## The Kilted Yaksman (Oct 31, 2000)

Jon718 said:


> Is there a M1 High Mileage that is synthetic?


Google is your friend.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_High_Mileage_5W-30.aspx


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