# 1980 Audi 4000 Garage Find/Estate Sale: Only 11305 miles!



## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

*1980 Audi 4000 Garage Find/Estate Sale: Only 11,305 Miles! (update 19K miles now)*









Well, I have been over on the Scirocco forums here at VW Vortex for about a year but have always had love for the 4000 in my heart. I have previously owned a 1984 Coupe GT, 1986 Coupe GT and 1984 4000 S Quattro.

Now I am the proud owner of a 1980 Audi 4000 2Door Sedan. (PICTURES at www.jenkinsboys.com/audi4000)

The story starts with a Craigslist search about 2 weeks ago. I stumbled upon a listing that referenced an Estate Auction that had an old Audi in it. Further research led me to the AuctionZip listing and a couple of really bad photos. You know, the kind that are just enough to peak your interest but not enough to show squat.

Being a commercial auctioneer and liquidator by profession, I called the auctioneer directly, for more details. It was part of an estate that started in 2008 when granny passed away. I don’t know the details as to why it took until 2011 to have the auction but suffice to say it did. I found out that the Audi was considered to NOT be the prize but instead they pinned all their hopes on the 1991 BMW 325i with 47K miles. I found out that the cars were last driven in 2003 and hadn’t been driven since grandpa had passed away. This was also confirmed by the registrations expiring in 2004. I worked some angles and was able to get a chance to look at the cars and more specifically the Audi, the weekend before the auction.

It was a brisk September morning in the south end of Zanesville, OH and at 8:30AM the garage door went up. It was a single wide but double deep garage and the Audi was stuck in the front and jammed up tight by the BMW. This appeared to be common place by the scuffs on the Audi rear bumper that lined up to the BMW license plate. The Warranty Booklet showed it was a local car that was sold in Zanesville, OH at McHugh VW. That is the dealership where I nearly had a cot in the parts department because I was in there so much during my High School years with my first car, a 1977 Anconia Blue Scirocco turned Tornado Red and somewhere around 200K miles.

After viewing everything but under the hood, because it was in the front of the garage with an over shelf, flat tires and no good way to open the hood, I satisfied myself that it was indeed a one owner car with only 11,305 miles on the clock. The warranty manual and the registrations in the glove box matched as well as a gas station oil change sticker in the driver’s door jam that said the oil was last changed in 1989 with 7900miles on the odometer. I was also assured by the auctioneer that the title provenance passed muster as well. This was later confirmed when I got the title in hand.

Auction day came and I was joined by some friends. Kevin Morrissette from the Columbus Audi Get Togethers (moral support and help if needed), Jeff Melzer from 37 Auto Sales (a good friend and he wanted to buy the BMW) and my favorite independent mechanic Jim Black of Black’s Automotive in Zanesville, OH (I think he wanted a heads up of what might end up at his shop if I got into something I couldn’t wrench myself and he his the author of my favorite car repair quote “A man made it so a man can fix it, as long as he has the right tools and service information.” He has never been afraid of anything foreign or domestic that I take to him and I have taken him so odd stuff over the years.) 

The car had been dragged out of the garage by a wrecker because the right rear wheel was locked up. They did wash the cars off with a garden hose and even Armor All’d the tires. This was then the source of my brother’s Facebook post “You know you’re from Zanesville when you Armor All flat tires.”

The auction started with the Audi as the first item. It turned into a d*ck measuring contest with the “Mean Old Bastard”, I WON! This has become my pet name for the guy who ran me up on the bid. All others dropped out by $800 but this guy pushed and pushed until it took $2500 to win. I truly do not believe he had an interest in the car and barely knew what it was but it was his entertainment to mess with people at auctions. Many of the other attendees knew him and grumbled about his presence. There seemed to be a severe lack of positive things to be said about him by the locals. At least I was told that he had the cash to back up his mouth because quite frankly he looked more like a homeless guy than a capable car buyer. I did the bidding and my buddy Jeff ended up with the BMW, so it was a clean sweep for us, though I feel confident I softened up the “Mean Old Bastard” on the Audi because he dropped out of the bidding way earlier, on the BMW with a much higher book value.

With the auction won and the car towed to my father’s garage, where I have my tools, lift and workspace, the real work has just begun.

I went back the next night after the auction and started inspecting and ended up doing more cleaning than anything. I cleaned the windows and detailed the interior as well as started my under the hood inspections. I found where “Mickey & Minnie” had been camping out in the fresh air fan box and likely raised a brood or two of “cheese eatin’ little bastards”. Remarkably the mice did not chew wiring nor enter the cabin of the car. I think it was because all of the vents were closed. Lucky Me!

This weekend I was able to dedicate two half days and managed to remove the stuck brake drum, determine that the cooling system leaked off from a gasket problem around the coolant neck on the head and from around the water pump, replaced the thermostat and O-ring, made sure the motor was free by turning over by hand, changed the oil, investigated the fluidless brake system and did more cleaning. I also drained the fuel tank, hooked up a battery and tried to start the car. I quickly found I had spark, the engine built oil pressure but no fuel delivery. The fuel pump has seized up…

Monday I ordered parts like a drunken sailor from several sources. I hope to get it started this coming weekend as well as work on the brakes.

The brakes are pretty amazing. Even though I don’t trust the rubber components and will be rebuilding calipers, replacing wheel cylinders and master cylinder, it is still way cool that the original pads, rotors, drums and shoes are near perfect with no discernable wear.

I am going to clean up, paint and reuse anything I can vs. replacements. I want to keep it original vs. building a hot sleeper race car. I do have some mild changes in mind that won’t compromise the integrity of the car, like wheels and tires and a NOS Nardi Mahogany steering wheel.

I have my pictures organized by timeline and they can be found at:

www.jenkinsboys.com/audi4000

Check back for more updates as I get his survivor back on the road.

Stephen


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## Thunderbox (Aug 29, 2008)

*Nice write up Steve, glad I could be there to witness a very cool find. Keep us posted*


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

Worked on more clean up last night, fixed the coolant leak and checked into the brake master cylinder. Lots of parts on order...

Don't miss the photo of my new Way Cool NARDI wood steering wheel.

www.jenkinsboys.com/audi4000

Stephen


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## unimogken (Jan 19, 2005)

Holy crap! 
What a score!


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

*Another work weekend*

Well, I started Friday night after I left the office. I found a pile of parts on my door step from the postman and the UPS man. Unfortunately the "good" box from AutoHausAZ hadn't made it yet, tracking info says it is supposed to deliver Monday/today. 

Without the box of goodies like the fuel pump, I knew I wasn't going to see it run this weekend. I continued to work on general clean up and painting components. 

I painted the brake booster, in the car. I news papered the heck out of the engine bay and fenders to avoid over spray. Once I painted the booster, the top of the radiator looked like crap comparatively so it got painted too. I got the valve cover off and painted as well as the fan shroud got its paint. I even had some Aluminum Silver engine paint and I freshened up the oil cap, it looks great. 

I did more brake work with sanding and painting as well as got the passenger rear brakes reassembled. I forgot how much I disliked drum brakes. I didn't get injured or anything but my hands hurt today from all of the pulling and pushing to get the ebrake cable, springs, etc in place. I also got a surprise when I took the driver's drum off, the brake shoes were Wet! They looked like they had rusty mud on them. Now I know where some more of that brake fluid went, since the resovior was dry. I did use an air hose and purge the brake lines so I didn't run that old nasty fluid through the new hydraulic components. Ultimately I ended up with new brake shoes. 

I also ended up ordering reman calipers from AutoHausAZ. When I went to disassemble the driver's caliper for rebuild, the bleeder screw twisted off. I then went to an easy out to remove it and that damn thing broke off in the hole, cheap ass Black & Decker easy outs! I then spent a considerable amount of time trying to drill out the bleeder on the drill press but with the hardened easy out stuck in there, the drill bit just walked towards the sides to eat the threads. I didn't want to have one home rebuild and one professionally rebuilt caliper so I ordered the pair. 

Since I have the Bentley Manual now, I was reading on fuel tank removal. It looks pretty straight forward. The more I think about it, I have decided I won't be happy with the unknown of the gas tank. Even though when I drained it, I didn't get a bunch of chunks, just bad smelling gas, I plan to go ahead and remove it and have it professional cleaned out at the local shop. This way I have the fuel system right and tight with a clean tank, fresh filters and new fuel pump. 

Seemed like a lot of hours spent without a lot of tangible results. I am sure it will look good when done but it seems like a ton of work left to do. Probably would help if I started in the mornings instead of sleeping in a little and getting rolling around noonish  

I added more pictures as well. 

www.jenkinsboys.com/audi4000 

Stephen


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## jschlyGT (Oct 22, 2010)

awesome awesome awesome! 


A few of those things I've done to my cgt already but now I see a few more that I'd definitely like to do, namely my rear drums...although you don't make it sound like its all fun and games. I've actually had replacement drums, springs and shoes for a while now but have shied away from getting them done, perhaps it's time...


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

*Fuel Tank*

I inspected inside the fuel tank with one of those lighted LCD cameras, way cool! Unfortunately what I found was a bunch of crud, sludge and rusty crusties inside the tank. I removed the tank, which was surprisingly easy to do, only took 20min. I also found why the fuel gauge isn't working, the float on the sending unit has fuel in it as well as the sender was so rusted and corroded it no longer moves, nor do I have much hope for bringing it back to life. 

I called and of course it was NLA as a new part. An internet search turned up empty handed on NOS so used it is. I have a couple of feelers out and think I have a line on a used one from a local contact. 

I am also still running the gauntlet on front calipers. As mentioned above, I was going to rebuild the ones I have. It is pretty straight forward and I already had one cleaned up and painted. Then I tried to remove the driver's side and all was well until I tried to open the bleeder screw. You guessed it, twisted off  Then I tired an easy out, yep, it twisted off too :banghead: 

AutoHausAZ came back with a status of "Not Available" for the calipers. I now have reman calipers on order a second time through another vendor (International Parts/Vermeer's in Columbus) but my attempts thus far have turned out that a vendor shows them as available but when it came to ordering and actually getting them, no joy. Even Advance, Autozone, O'Rielly's & Carquest come up dry... 

So... I am hedging my bets, I have a pair on order with about a week lead time, if they figure out if they have them, in the mean time I have the old caliper with my buddy Jim Black who "knows a guy" who is a machinist savant who thinks he can either extract the broken bleeder or machine it out for an oversized bleeder screw. 

The saga continues but tonight isn't a car night so I will have to get back to it Wednesday. 

Gas tank photos are up and I changed the photo order to reverse chronological to make it easier to find the new stuff. 

www.jenkinsboys.com/audi4000 

Stephen


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

Another night of work. More sanding, wire brushing, sand blasting, prepping, priming and painting... 

No new photos, I am sure you are bored with pictures of rusty stuff turning fresh with black paint. 

Tonight I plan to finish rear brake assembly and everything but front calipers. 

I am starting to see some light at the end of the tunnel. 

Stephen


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

Worked until midnight again. 

I finished the Master Cylinder install, Loomed up the plug wires, installed front brake hoses and finished up the rear brake assembly complete with the repacked bearings, drum install and new dust cap. I think they look mighty snazzy, if I do say so myself. The rear wheels now spin free and aren't damp with brake fluid any longer, yeah! The e-brake also works like a champ now. 

I have high hopes for this weekend. I am supposed to get the calipers today as well as the fuel tank back from being cleaned and lined. 

I have come across a parts NLA problem but I think I have fix. The fuel filter between the tank and fuel pump is NLA. I think I literally have every cross reference number from Audi/VW, Beck/Arnley, Fram, Wix, NAPA, Carquest, Hastings, etc. (literally 21 references) and they are ALL obsolete and no longer in stock. I tried to order from an eBay vendor but they just waited a week to tell me it is a catalog item that they don't try and get it from a warehouse until an order comes in from the web, ie NIS. I then ordered from another eBay vendor who claims to have one in hand but I likely won't see that until next week. 

The fuel filter solution: I have a generic inline 3/8, inlet/outlet, low pressure, paper element, metal canister style filter from Fram. Likely fitment for some old hunk of Detroit iron... It is a couple of inches in diameter and similar size to the plastic original but no mounting tab. I plan to take a piece of flat bracket (car stereo back strap if I remember correctly) and bend it to make a hanger and then hose clamp it to the outside of the fuel filter to mount it on the body tab. Of course photos will come when I get to that. 

With any luck, things will come together and I would like to get it started this weekend:thumbup: 

Pictures at the same URL 
www.jenkinsboys.com/audi4000 

Stephen


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

*The BAD & The GOOD!*

A productive weekend but not without frustrations. First off, I did not get the car started but I also did not try yet as the fuel system isn’t finished.

The BAD: 

Friday night I went to pick up the new vented rotors I had ordered but they were not there. I was informed that they are not a fast moving part and when I didn’t pick up promptly, they shipped them back to the warehouse. Fortunately they were only a day away and I reordered.

I tried to get the title work done at the Clerk of Courts Saturday morning, No Joy. They told me that I need court documents showing that the title signer was indeed the executor of the Estate. I am working on resolving that this morning but I tried two different counties and spent half my day driving around.

Came into the shop Saturday morning to find that my pristinely repainted valve cover was laying on the floor scratched, nicked and looking like crap. The box that was supporting it apparently lost its structural integrity and the side collapsed, dumping the valve cover on the floor. I got it repainted but I am concerned about the days of cure time for the engine paint.

I picked up the fuel tank from getting it cleaned and coated internally. I was less than impressed. They did not coat the entire filler neck, just the inside of the tank. This was minor considering that the neck is not where the rust issue was. The bigger problem is they did however paint the sealing goop right inside the neck and coated the flapper where the fuel nozzle at the gas station goes in. This effectively glued the flapper shut. This took quite some time to figure out how to clean the goop off, keep in mind that gasoline won’t dissolve this stuff. I ended up using VHT caliper cleaner in a spray can that I had left from my caliper prepping. It softened the goop but it was still a lengthy challenge.

I left my vinyl fender protector lying in the engine compartment, shut the hood and poke a hole right through it with the hood latch.

Then when bleeding the brakes with my handy dandy European power bleeder, it slipped and fell off the fender down into the engine compartment and busted the face glass on the gauge.

It is still going… I then was replacing the rear brake flex lines. The very last connection to complete the brake system and the flare nut is frozen and starts to round off, even with a proper flare nut wrench. I soaked it with some more PBR blaster and even hedged my bets by buying a section of brake line with new ends. When I returned from the parts run, I got it to break loose and moved on.

I tried to install my Nardi Mahogany steering wheel. I received my NOS original Nardi hub adapter with the old school Audi logo horn button and… crap, the horn contacts aren’t correct. The fine print with the adapter indicated Audi 80 through mid 1975 and the horn contacts were two posts rather than a ring to slide against the contact. So, back to the drawing board for a different hub adapter and $80 down the drain.

I also found some bad news on the exhaust system. I knew it was surface rusty but I saw daylight from where the pipe is welded on the rear muffler. I figured, hmmm, wire brush and a little dab of JB Weld and I would push off getting exhaust work done until I could get a few miles on the car, but No. I went after the weld and the more I brushed the less pipe that was left. Overall it is pretty thin and I fear that I need Cat back exhaust replacement… It is just money, Right?

Last but not least, I thought I would tackle the simple task of replacing the air filter. Yep, you guessed it, wrong filter, too short, wouldn’t fit…

With all of that out of the way, now the GOOD!

Brakes: I now have the brakes completely finished. I received new calipers Friday from Centric. I ended up having to order calipers for an 84 Coupe GT, which has the same hydraulic half but a mounting bracket capable of fitting a vented 20mm rotor rather than the solid 12mm rotor. This dovetailed into my desire for better braking and ceramic brake pads. I took the plunge, bought vented rotors and Wagner Thermo-Quite ceramic pads. I painted the new calipers black and the new rotor hats black as well. I power bled the system with ATE Super Blue and have a good solid pedal. I am very pleased with the brake system end results. ALL new rubber in the whole system: New calipers, new wheel cylinders, new master cylinder and all four new rubber hoses.

Fuel System: I have the fuel tank flapper cleaned and fixed, as referenced earlier. The tank is reinstalled and looking pretty. A special thanks goes out to Kevin Morrissette for a fuel sending unit so the gas gauge functions. The old one was crusted over and badly frozen. I researched and found it to be obsolete but there was fitment carry over from any FWD 4000 or Coupe up to 87. Kevin had a very nice condition used sending unit that he graciously provided with the caveat of “pay it forward”. I of course have leant many a help to my VW and Audi brethren over the years and will continue to do so  The high pressure fuel filter in the engine bay is replaced and I purged the fuel lines from the front of the car to the back with an air hose, just as I had done with the brake lines. I wanted to make sure all that crud didn’t get pushed into the fresh components. I still need the pre-filter or a fabrication to make a generic one work, plus the install of new rubber fuel lines to the pre-filter and the fuel pump. I have a pretty new Bosch pump setting in a box ready for install.

Misc: 

In the engine compartment I reinstalled the cleaned & painted fan shroud and electric cooling fan and it looks great. I found that the horns didn’t work so I sourced a pair of Klaxon Hi-Lo note genuine Audi horns from a salvage yard online, the donor was a 1992 Audi. I cleaned up the outside of the power steering reservoir and tried to change the air filter as explained earlier.
I think I am really close to starting the car. My original plan was to replace the timing belt, water pump and V belts but I think I am going to start and run the car and see what things look like before taking that plunge. Visual inspection looks good even though there is some corrosion around the water pump base. Closer inspection makes me think the water pump itself is not the source of the corrosion but instead the coolant that leaked from around the water neck on the head, where I replaced the gasket already, ran down the front of the motor causing the green crusties.

I also have some good news to start my Monday with. I spoke with the local exhaust shop and have all the parts on order for a new Bosal exhaust install this week; that is if I can drive the car over there  

I also ordered a Luisi steering wheel adapter that will fit a Nardi bolt pattern. That is coming from GA and should be here this week.

I plan to keep diligently working each night this week until the car is rolling down the street under its own power. Wish me luck on getting things running this week so I can take the weekend drive with the local Audi club.

New photos posted, same URL
www.jenkinsboys.com/audi4000

Stephen


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## Thunderbox (Aug 29, 2008)

*Awesome update Steve. Really would like to see the car for the run this weekend*

glad the sending unit worked. I may get out this week to visit. Looks like you have alot sorted already. Tell me more about the wrong steering wheel adapter. I think my son may be looking for a new wheel for his CGT. Think it will work?


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

I will likely be there every night this week or until it moves under its own power, whichever comes first. You are always welcome to stop by. Just call and I will give you an address/directions.

As for the adapter, it is for older Audi. The fine print says through 1975. The splines and turn signal cancel are right but the horn contact is wrong. The horn contact on our cars and most VW/Audi through the late 70's and 80's is on the column and it is a spring loaded tab that rides a circular brass contact on the back side of the wheel. Had I looked closer at the eBay listing I should have caught this from the photos.

Short answer, it won't fit a Coupe GT either.

I really like my Momo Retro, black leather wheel on the Scirocco and I think the Mahogany Nardi will look classy and right with the brown & tan interior of my 4000. If your son ends up liking something vintage from Nardi/Personal then the Luisi steering wheel adapter is the answer, otherwise adapters are available from the steering wheel vendor.


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

*Thanks to my girlfriend Kimberly*

I thought I needed to make recognition and give a special thanks to my girlfriend Kimberly.

First for putting up with my "illness" and listening to me talk VW/Audi.

Second for accepting the time I spend on the cars.

Third for being company for me in the shop, even though I know she has to be bored.

Last but not least, for this weekend. She knows I have been consumed with this project and have neglected household chores for the last couple of weeks. This weekend, she caught up my laundry, cleaned up the kitchen, put cloths and dishes away and I even noticed that the upstairs bathroom trash can was no longer near the tipping point.

Thank you for looking out for me when I myopically shift my focus away from daily duties, it is noticed and appreciated


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## Jedidub (Oct 6, 2010)

This is a phenomenal story and a hell of a trophy to go with it. Great find keep up the good work.


By the way isn't the Audi a CIS car and wouldn't a scirocco mk2 fuel pump work? Just a thought.


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

It is a CIS car but my understanding is that a Scirocco MK2 has an "inside the tank" style pump where this is an external that more closely resembles the Scirocco MK1. It is located on a bracket just ahead of the rear axle beam on the passenger's side.


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

*Updates from the last 2 days*

Well, the universe still seems to be pushing back...

I am still fighting to get an inline fuel filter between the tank and pump. The hose diameter is 12mm or roughly 1/2inch SAE. Generic strainer filters are readily available with 1/4 and 3/8 but 1/2inch is a different story. A guy at the O'reilly's auto parts in Lancaster helped find me one. We looked through the paperback Wix catalog. In the back there are technical drawings of all their filters. We finally found one and only one with 1/2 fittings. I ordered with a supposed yesterday arrival. Last night, I went to get it and... you guessed it, No joy  I called back this morning and a different guy went and looked and said it was there and he had it in his hand. The first guy didn't look too hard since the computer did show it as arriving yesterday. I guess he couldn't see the filter for the trees, wait that isn't the right quote.

I got the fuel fuel pump installed Monday night. It was a messy job with the black gooey under coating. I also tried to get the crank pulley bolt loose to change out the water pump, timing belt, etc but I couldn't break it loose with a good 625lb impact gun. I think I need the VW/Audi specialty tools 2079 & 2084. I can buy them online for around $200 but I would really like to find a loaner or someone who will let me borrow a personal set. I am not too worried about the water pump and belts for initial start up as they look good by visual inspection. I will worry with those details in the near future, I just want to see it RUN! I only got a chance for a couple of hours so the rest of the time was general shop clean up and tidying up some loose ends.

Last night, after finding I had no fuel filter yet, I went to refill the cooling system, which went fine as did the install of the BBS RA wheels and tires that I borrowed from Ginger, my 81 Scirocco. Last thing after the fuel filter is re-install is the valve cover. I have it pretty and painted and ready to go but I went to do the install and the valve cover gasket was not the right one. Ahhh! It was too short by about an inch. I had specifically ordered the rubber re-usable one but come to find out that it is for a later model of the engine. Back to the old crappy, leaky cork one. At least it is in stock at International Parts here in town and is under $4.00

I will likely update pictures tomorrow as I only have a few from the last two nights.

Stay tuned!!!

Stephen


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

*The Car is Named*

I can't believe I forgot to mention that I have Named Her!

***Genevieve***

It kinda came to me as I have been working. It seemed to fit. I guess she "spoke to me" during the countless hours I have spent getting her road worthy since I bought her on September 20th.

I have actually been calling her Genevieve for at least a week now


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## Thunderbox (Aug 29, 2008)

*Come on where is the update - tonight was "try to start night".....*

Really would like to see your new baby for the run this weekend


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

*It's ALIVE!!! (but I don't think the mice are anymore)*

Well, it has taken me all day to get around to finally updating from the events of the last 2 days. (A lot going on at work)

Things started out slow Monday with NO fuel filter arriving from any of 3 sources I was trying.

Last night was the night. I started at the garage with 3 fuel filters instead of None. I ended up with a Wix 33299 round metal can low pressure strainer with 1/2inch nipples on each end (I said nipples, hehe). I formed a custom bracket from some radio back strap, a left over bolt from the old calipers and an extra nut found in the trunk of the car, I like to use OEM whenever possible LOL.

I installed the valve cover and new gasket and finished all the little tidy/re-connection work in the engine bay.

At 10:30PM the moment of truth came. I turned the key and started cranking. It cranked dry for a good while and just when I started to get concerned it tried to fire and stumbled. I kept hearing noises like farts in a bath tub (but of course I have only ever heard that noise in the movies) and I believe it was air bubbles in the gas tank from the return line as the air purged from the fuel system. It would fire, stumble, die and I would try again for several more attempts over the next half hour or so. It finally started hitting to the point I got a rough idle. As I tried blipping the throttle, I started hearing things bounce off the hood of my Oldsmobile parked outside the open garage door (didn't want to come this far, only to asphyxiate). I looked behind the car to find a bunch of crap. It was insulation, shredded newspaper, acorns, rocks, sunflower seeds, etc. Apparently Mickey & Minnie had been hard at work raising more cheese eatin' little bastards in the exhaust system. With the rusty swiss cheese like holes, I found that they had made their nest somewhere up towards or in the mid muffler as debris was coming out of holes ahead of the rear muffler. The noise I had heard was acorns shooting at the front end of the Oldsmobile.

The longer it ran, the better it ran and the better the throttle response became. I let it idle for about 6 cycles of the electric cooling fan while I watched for smoke, leaks or any anomalies. I then re-assembled the grill and front end trim, applied the plates from the Scirocco (since the title work isn't done). The only problems I have found are exhaust leaks but I knew that was coming and the dash lights don’t work. It is systemic as they all do not illuminate so I will investigate that tonight.

After a brief clean up of tools and garage while the car warmed, it was time for the test drive. I put it in gear and slowly backed out of the garage. I took it on the trusty test drive loop that has been used since the 80's by my brother and I from car working days gone by. I went out the driveway up the hill and around Jenkins Drive in the upper subdivision. Yes "Jenkins Drive" is family namesake.

When I would let off the throttle and get back on, it missed and stumbled a little and then would clean out. After the Jenkins Drive loop I felt braver and headed for the BP station in South Zanesville and filled up with Premium fuel.

Next it was off to the Soggy Doggy Car and Pet Wash (yes that name is real) for a touch free car wash. All went well and the haze of dust, rust flakes and misc. magically rinsed away. I drove the car back to the shop for another inspection.

I ended up leaving the car in Zanesville as the new exhaust system parts were to arrive today, which they did and there is an 8AM appointment for install Friday/Tomorrow morning.

I hope to find a steering wheel adapter on the door step tonight and then it is off for some more clean up and investigation into the dash lights.

Last thing to mention is the smell of burnt mouse and nest. As the exhaust heated up it wreaks outside the car. I think if there were any living inhabitants in the exhaust, they are now Well Done!

Bottom line is that it runs, drives and seems to be doing well with about 6miles added to the odometer. Barring natural disaster, death my own, etc. I WILL be driving it Saturday with the guys from the Audi GTG on a trip from Zanesville to Athens.

I updated photos again and the story is not over so keep checking back.
www.jenkinsboys.com/audi4000

Stephen


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## Thunderbox (Aug 29, 2008)

*Nice work Steve, love the story about OEM parts, it is the 4 rings way.*

If you need help getting back to your house let me know.


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## AudiCoupeGT1986 (Apr 20, 2011)

Wow! Absolutely fantastic! The car looks great! Good job on getting it all together. I wish it was this easy to get my car back in running order. :thumbup:


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

*After the Weekend Update (and it is all good)*

Thursday evening started with a drive of the car. It was very sluggish and had poor acceleration. I tried to take it up the ramp to I70 for a little circle back at the Adamsville exit. On the way up the ramp, I floored it and about 7/8 the way up the ramp I heard a LOUD POP and the car stumbled to barely an idle. I couldn't get above 35MPH and limped the 1.5miles to the next exit. It wouldn't even climb the grade into the Marathon station to investigate. I shut it off and started looking for the source of the loud noise but all passed visual inspection and all fluids were accounted for. After setting for 10minutes thinking that I was royally screwed and would have to call a roll back, I decided to try and start it back up. It started right up and ran just as crappy good as before the loud pop but still not great. I bee-lined back for the shop at my Dad's house.

I went over the whole whole car with New Finish for a quickie detail job. It shone very nice but I still need some touch up paint and more in depth detail work.

I solved the dash light issue and it was just as my brother and I suspected. It was the dash light dimmer portion of the head light switch. I took the switch apart, cleaned all the contacts with Caig DeoxIT-D5, burnished the dimmer contact with a small file and lubed all the contacts with di-electric grease. I re-assembled all and can now see in the dark. Well not really "See in the Dark" but the night time instrumentation viewing has increased 100 fold. I also used interior trim paint to re-dye the speaker grill material in the dash. It looks good now and I will have to do the passenger dash speaker grill next.

I found myself very tired and with the prospect of an 8AM exhaust appointment (followed by a visit to the chiropractor, all this work has taken its toll on me), I decided to just sleep at my Dad's house in Zanesville and take the "walk of shame" the next day at the office in the same clothes.

Friday morning 8AM came and I arrived for my exhaust appointment at Rods Tire Town & Exhaust in Zanesville, OH. They used the drive on style lift so no worries of crushed rocker panels. When they cut off the old exhaust, more acorns rolled onto the floor and the source of the loud pop was discovered. The mid-muffler blew apart and ripped the side open. There was apparently far more obstruction in the exhaust as I had originally estimated. Just under $250 for a new CAT back exhaust installed, thanks Rod and thanks Jim for recommending me there.

With the new exhaust installed it ran like a completely different car. It had acceleration,it would pull a hill and I ultimately drove it to work in Columbus up I70 with speeds upto 85MPH (shhhh don't tell Officer Bob).

When I arrived home after work I found my Luisi steering wheel adapter waiting for me on my front porch along with a package that had my newer logo horn button. I drove the car to Zanesville, installed the Nardi wheel and came home. You are right in thinking it, the install was not all peaches & cream nor was it as smooth as it should have been. I did not get the trim ring that covers the bolt head that I specifically ordered and paid extra for and the horn retainer did not have a spade terminal tab on it like my Momo adapter did for the Scirocco. This meant I had to get creative for adding the other lead to complete the horn button circuit and make it functional. I was also unable to use the old school Nardi blue Audi logo horn button but used the newer one instead. At the end of the day I think I am happier with the newer horn button logo as well as the exposed bolt heads on the wheel.

After a good nights sleep I headed for Zanesville again, this time to meet the other folks for the Audi GTG 1st annual Spook Drive. After a slow start, since we were all standing around BS-ing and looking at each other's cars, we got about a 1.5hr late start to our 10AM drive. We ended up in two groups of about 8 cars each. Group 2 stayed behind for a rear suspension bushing change project.

It was a great drive out of Zanesville, down SR60 to McConnelsville and then 555, etc. through the country to Bill's house outside of Athens. I though Genevieve held her own, didn't have too much body roll and I DEFINITELY seated the front pads and rotors. The longer I drive her, the better she runs!

I have to mention the most unique and broad range of products carried by a BP station in the country that we stopped at. They of course had gasoline, beer, cigarettes, the usual snack/junk food, a head shop, dildos & various adult novelties, some grocery items, a few of the cheapy kid's toys, knives & throwing stars, assorted hemp related items and last but not least a NAPA brake line rack with assorted lengths of brake lines with flare nuts. There wasn't much you couldn't do with a small visit to the BP 

Bill and GF put out an exceptional spread of chow for the group, Thank You again! Burgers & trimmings, brats, some awesome guacamole dip, cheesy potatoes, etc. If you went away hungry, it was your own damn fault. Oh, and anybody who didn't slip Bill a few bucks for the awesome spread, consider doing so, I know from personal experience, entertaining doesn't come free to feed that many people and feed them as well as we were fed. (I hope my contribution helped defray it a little).

On the drive home it was quite ironic that I would see another early 80s Audi 4000 S 2 Door sedan. What are the odds? It was literally setting on the Muskingum/Morgan County line near Eagleport, OH. It was a silver 4000 S, which I believe to be a 4cyl FWD and it was "THUMPED". dangling rear bumper, some rust, damaged front fender & headlight and it appeared to have newer chocolate velour Coupe GT seats in it.

Today/Sunday I drove the car again to meet some friends for a picnic at Slate Run Metro Park near Lithopolis. Had a great time seeing the gang gain. I then drove to my Mom's place in Thornville and we ended up going to dinner. Yep, drove the Audi and even took 4 adults and Genevieve didn't complain a bit and the rear seat passengers only complained about getting in and out but seemed comfortable along the way.

All told I have driven her just over 500miles. I can't say enough about how impressed I am with this 31 year old beauty. Genevieve exemplifies the 80's German Car Experience.

I am sure I will follow up on little finds and fixes as I strive for perfection so check back.

More photos posted
www.jenkinsboys.com/audi4000

Stephen


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

*700 new miles on the odometer*

Well, I have driven her about 700 miles now. Just keeps running better the longer she goes.

I stopped by Kumler Collision this morning for an estimate to fix the lower valence below the front bumper. I know, I don't really want any paint work on the car but the previous owner had pulled too far forward and crunched a concrete curb stop. The damage is minor but it has been there a long time and it is surface rusty where the paint is broken. I don't want future problems there so I think I need to get it fixed. The estimate was in the clouds but then again you get what you pay for and Kumler is hands down the best with body & paint in my opinion and based on years of experience with them.

One concern I have is that Kumler's want to use new technology water based paint base/clear. I might try cousin Jeff at Jeff Jenkins Body Shop and see what he has to say and if he could use something more period correct for paint.

I will keep you posted and no new pictures currently.

Stephen


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

*New Wheels*

I got Genevieve her own set of shoes, she no longer has to borrow her sister's BBS RAs.

I found a set of 1992 OEM Corrado BBS 15" wheels on Craig's List, near Mansfield, Thanks Chris!

They were refinished in Brilliant Silver and got new tires apx. 7500 miles ago. They are worn evenly and look & ride great. I think the Cooper Touring tires are a nice compliment and the ride is far nicer than the Bridgestone Potenza RE-11s that were on the "borrowed" wheels.

The seller of the wheels also does vinyl and graphics and had done the BBS red center cap logos currently on the car. He agreed to make Audi Ring logo center cap stickers for me. The red BBS pops nice on the wheels but I think I will like the more subdued Audi 4 Rings better.

New pictures posted www.jenkinsboys.com/audi4000

Stephen


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## Maggiolone (Aug 20, 2007)

Best of luck. I am in love with this car. :thumbup:


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## Thunderbox (Aug 29, 2008)

*This car continues to impress*

Steve let me know how the paint work goes. My 5KTQ is in need of some paint.


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

I have crested a 1000 miles since the restore and I changed the oil for Genevieve's winter storage.

The paint project has stalled. I have been swamped at work and my motivation is down a little. I think I have shifted my thought process a little. Instead of painting the valence, I think I am going to clean and touch it up with some rust inhibitor. I think I have decided I would like to find a small bumper Pre-85 Coupe GT or 4000 sedan front spoiler. I can get it painted with no dis-assembly to the car, it will cover the blemish as well as I think it would finish the nose of the car off better.

If you know of a 4000 front spoiler available, drop me a line.

I also have update on a problem and fix. I was having some harder starting when the car was cold. I thought through my memory bank on how the CIS worked and remembered the cold start valve (called the fifth injector on 4cylinder cars and the sixth injector on 5cylinders) along with the thermo time switch. This all came to me as I was cranking and after 5 seconds of starter crank I could hear a relay start pulsing and the car would start. This took me back to my 77 Scirocco and the hot start problems I fought there. Back then there was a circuit you could add that was a relay that would pulse the fifth injector if the starter cranked more than 5 seconds. On later cars, this circuit came standard. It is taking me longer to type it out than the thought process did but I figured out the sixth injector wasn't firing when cold and that I must have a thermo time switch problem. I went to the engine bay, found the thermo time switch and there it was, big as day, not even plugged in. I found the plug hanging next to it and I figure it hasn't been plugged in for a very long time, possibly since the car was new. I cleaned the contacts up a little, put some dielectric grease on them and plugged it in. Voila! Starts on a dime when cold!

I have a couple of little things left to chase and I am ordering parts. Those include a front seat guide clip because the driver's seat rocks a little, an O-ring for the idle screw because it is dry rotted and affecting idle slightly and lastly a new oil cap. When I did an engine bay cleaning for the first time, I found that gunk engine cleaner dissolved the silver engine paint on the oil cap but luckily did not affect the black engine paint on the valve cover or brake booster. Not sure what happened since they were both the same brand and type of high temp ceramic engine paint, go figure... I also have some seepage back at the gasket for the water inlet into the head from the top radiator hose. I used a new paper gasket with Permatex and tightened to the torque specs in the Bentley Manual but no joy. I was careful to clean and prep the mating surfaces too. I think I will either retry with a new gasket and a skim of RTV for seek making a custom gasket out of rubber. I will likely chase that seepage when I do the water pump and timing belt. All in all it gives me a couple of small things to do over the winter.

That is all I have for an update currently. Likely won't have more until spring.

Thanks to all for the words of encouragement, the help and tech tips and for following my progress.

Stephen


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## raystaggs (Jan 9, 2007)

Love it - great find :thumbup:


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

I was working on car projects this weekend and had a couple of little parts for the Audi.

I had trouble with the passenger door shutting properly and found that the door pin was missing its plastic collar. I found an inexpensive set on eBay from MK1 Originals. They didn't list a fitment for the 4000 but I took a leap of faith based on time period and photos. They fit and function great.

I also had a cracked trunk lock seal. It had dried out, cracked and shrunk. Again I could not find official fitment but it is the same style lock as the MKII Scirocco. I again ordered on faith, this time from MK1 Autohaus and Eureka, it fit perfect!

I also spoke with my body shop contact and I think I am going to add a Coupe GT front spoiler and a 4000Q trunk spoiler. I also want to address the surface rust around the rust proofing plugs in the door sills.

I still need to address the timing belt and water pump, just based on age. If anybody has and is willing to loan me the crank pulley holding tool it would be much appreciated.

Of course, some new photos 

www.jenkinsboys.com/audi4000

Stephen


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## Maggiolone (Aug 20, 2007)

sgjii said:


> I think I am going to add a Coupe GT front spoiler and a 4000Q trunk spoiler.


Best of luck with everything; nice to see this car has a caring owner.
But please, please don't do the trunk spoiler. 

I know it's your car and all, but I get annoyed when someone takes a nice trunklid and puts on a spoiler, even if it could be OEM.


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

I appreciate the input.

I have the rear spoiler and was going to mock it up prior to final decision. I was debating if the 4dr Quattro spoiler would look right or too gaudy. My biggest love for the spoiler was that it was OEM.

I have also considered a very small lip edge spoiler. It would be aftermarket but I would have it painted to match. I installed one on my Mercedes SLK and really liked how it set off the tail end.

Overall, I think the blank trunk looks wrong or unfinished. No matter what I do it will be 3M tape and no drilling.

Stephen


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## teach2 (Aug 3, 2005)

Stephen,

I wholeheartedly agree on not doing the trunklid spoiler. The car is what it is, and it looks great!

On the other hand, if you REALLY want to do the trunklid spoiler, find a good trunklid from a 1984 4000S Quattro which would be the only year of the old style decklid with the spoiler. Have the donor painted (inside and out) to match your car. A GOOD shop can get an exact match. 

That way you still have the original to go back to if you or whoever owns the car in the future desires. 

Those spoilers do inevitably get cracks in the paint. You can use a flex agent when it is painted, but it seems to be just a matter of time.

I "did up" a 1982 4000S years ago with the trunklid spoiler, chin spoiler, and the under-bumper rear valance from a 1984 4000S Quattro (only year for that piece, too). It looked good, but it was not nearly as clean or original as your car (I'll insert a pic, although the under-bumper valance was not installed yet, I guess).

Like previous posters have said, it's your car, but it is so clean and original that it seems to deserve to stay that way.


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## Maggiolone (Aug 20, 2007)

I think it's super classy without the spoiler.

To me, spoilers are a vestige of the craptastic 90's, when even Oldsmobile and Mercury made them options.


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

What started me down the spoiler road in the first place was the front. The metal valence below the bumper has damaged from being run up and into a concrete parking lot stop. The cracked and damaged paint rusted and flaked significantly with setting all those years. My thought was to clean the rust, seal the damage to prevent further decay and cover it with a factory front spoiler painted to match.

I do not have a ton of money invested in the OEM front and rear spoilers and could likely resell them and be whole. The only mods to the car thus far are the Nardi steering wheel, 15in BBS wheels and the upgrade to vented front rotors instead of solids. None of these upgrades are such that they can't be undone and I saved all the original parts.

My plans include the addition of Bosch fog lights and a factory Fog Switch, the front spoiler, possibly the rear spoiler and a decent sounding stereo head unit with factory speaker locations. I will likely have to replace the speakers because of rotten paper speaker cones. The headunit is already picked and is a Kenwood with CD, Bluetooth, iPod interface and XM Radio. Again I will save the factory piece and NOT cut the wire harness. I don't own "garage queens" and I like to drive them so some creature comforts are a must.

Stephen


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## Thunderbox (Aug 29, 2008)

*your car needs to go to Carlisle. See me about the details or check the emails for the GTG's*

I will call you about Saturday lunch and to look at the wheels for my B6


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## MickR (Jan 27, 2011)

Just wandered into the Audi area and read your whole thread and looked at the pics. Love it! What is the name of the color? Is it metallic? Good find, hope you enjoy many more miles.


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

MickR,

Thank you.

The color is Indiana Red and yes it is Metallic.

Just a few minor tweaks like the new water pump & belts, fuel accumulator and she will be ready for the summer. I am looking forward to a fun summer and a few thousand more miles.

Stephen


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## safetyguy62 (Aug 28, 2012)

*Might just still be near there maybe?*

Now I am the proud owner of a 1980 Audi 4000 2Door Sedan. (PICTURES at www.sbfiles.com/audi4000)


I was in the Army in 1980 on orders for Germany. I had just bought a 1980 Honda Wagon because I was going to Germany soon and I thought the car would be good for Europe. It was not. Honda was about the only car company that made engines that worked well with unleaded gas and could not be brought to Germany and burn regular gas, they would burn up. The dealer also sold new Audi's! I looked over the inventory and bought a cream/yellowish Audi 4000 S/5 Cly. When I got to Germany I made friends with a German family. Reinhold worked for VW making the Audi. He took my car to the factory with him and three weeks later I got it back. It had been Germanized! I could cruise at 170 MPH all day on the Autobahn. I loved that car. After three years we went back to Ft. Sill Oklahoma. Driving home one day I stopped in at the local dairy queen just down the street from the house. Somewhere just north of us it was one of those famous Oklahoma downpours and the drainage ditch next to the dairy queen filled and overflowed its banks in a matter on seconds. I had left the car running, windows open, and the water just picked it up and down stream it went. The car was recovered and the insurance payed to replace the engine and transmission that had been destroyed. The car just never ran right, at least for me after that. I sold the car and bought a 1980 Fleetwood Cadillac. The wife was in Real Estate and that was the perfect car for her. I often wonder if that car is still in Lawton Oklahoma somewhere. I do not have pictures, divorce destroyed them. I cannot find any paperwork with numbers on them. The dealership is long gone too. I miss that car. Yours is beautiful.


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## Maggiolone (Aug 20, 2007)

^ Huh?


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

Sorry to hear about the flood taking your Audi. 

Your post must have pushed this back to the top as I got a Statcounter report with an unusually high page count, which made me take notice and come check the thread. 

Although I made it to Carlisle, PA for the 2012 Import and Kit show this summer, my summer has been swamped with work and business travel. My car projects and especially Vortex postings have fallen way behind. 

I have some new photos and updates I need to post to all three of my vehicle threads, I have been off the grid for too long. 

Thanks for bringing my attention back  

On a side note, there is a cream 4000 2 door that looks to be in great shape on eBay currently. If I remember it is a 4 cylinder though... 

Stephen


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## teach2 (Aug 3, 2005)

Keep the updates coming, Stephen!


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## moyaled (Mar 22, 2012)

*P13W Base LED Head light*

I am Nauman ,I live in Treasure island I do LED automotive Lighting business in west USA ,And most of my client use them for 2010 & UP Chevy camaro with only the “LS/LT” Standard halogen headlights .
In the beginning ,we find a 7.5W with projector lens from china market with a similar base P13W .When I install them and appear three problems : The socket are not so deep ,Also the O-Ring Groove is too close to the flange .The color is just right to what we need .
For better solve this Problem ,We contact with an another company called Shenzhen Moya Led lighting co.,ltd and send one of my Philips halogen 55W headlight for their study and after wait 2 weeks ,They send me a same sample and it is just what I real need .I am so happy about that .Now I ordered 200 pairs each month ,And also with beautiful packing for my clients .And the price is very good even compare with E-Bay .

Any guy who also use these lamps ,I like to share the experience .Thank you ! 

Nauman 10-12-2012. attached comparision of the halogen picture & LED .


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

*I'm Back!*

It has been too long, but in the words of Randy Quaid's character in Independence Day, "I'M BAAAACK!" 

Well, I have been working way too much and doing way too little with my project cars for the last year. I have registered for Carlisle 2013, just finished a major work project and once again have the time and motivation to work on the Audi. 

I pulled the cover off, connected the battery and she fired right up! Time to start working on tweaks and upgrades before Carlisle. Genevieve just crested 15K miles with the two commutes to work since waking her from her winter slumber. 

Last fall the car developed a fuel leak and I had to drive the Mercedes to the Columbus Audi GTG Spook Run. First thing to address this year was the fuel leak. The line between the high pressure pump outlet and the fuel accumulator was cracked and spraying Upon further inspection the culprit became obvious. Aside from the age of the line, the fuel accumulator mounts seperated and had let go, this allowed the accumulator to bounce around and stress the brittle plastic and it started leaking right at the connection to the pump. I had a new/upgraded fuel line kit from MK1 Autohaus for my Scirocco and all of the fittings were correct. The line length was a bit of an issue but I got creative with routing the lines and moving the pump back a couple of inches in the bracket. What a pain, the leaking fuel had softened the undercoating and everything I touched was a black tar goop mess! I went through half a box of Nitrile Gloves and a Saturday. 

Upgrades for this year will include mechanical and cosmetics. 

*COSMETICS* 

I found a New In Box, New Old Stock Kamei front spoiler for the car. It has a hand signed and dated inspection sticker from 1983. It will nicely finish off the front valence and hide some of the sins of parking lot curb stop damage from the original owner. 

For the rear is a trunk lip spoiler. I was going to do an OEM 4KQ trunk spoiler but hated the idea of drilling the trunk deck. I ordered the small lip style by length and it attaches with gold ole' 3M tape. Since the Kamei is unpainted and black, I left the lip spoiler "natural" as well. 

The exhaust has been an "eye sore" for me and I have been debating a remedy ever since I got her running. Not the highest tech solution but I painted the rear muffler Hi-Temp flat black to help it hide/blend and I added a mass auto parts store chrome exhaust tip (yeah, I know... china special). Might not be Borla or Ansa but better than before and inexpensive. 

I am exploring some wheel center cap ideas to fit the Mesh X wheels and dress them up a little beyond the bland cap they have now. We will have to see if the new caps will fit reasonably... 

Lastly I plan to have the windows tinted. A nice 35% smoke window tint (shhh don't tell the Ohio Highway Patrol, they think 50% is the limit). I like the way it looks, it keeps things cooler and it will protect the fragile, aged interior from UV damage. 

* MECHANICALS* 

Good news for this summer's heat is that at the end of last year, I had the AC serviced and it now blows snow from the vents, well not literally but the air is nicely chilled. 

It took 6 months to get them and they have been setting in the corner of my living room for another 6 months but it is time for a set of springs. I started by looking for H&R then Vogtland and then Nuespeed and Eibach, No Joy, All discontinued. I had not heard of or used B&G Springs before but they were the only player left in the market and they received the thumbs up from a local Audi enthusiast. They are not a stocking item and were a production order item from overseas. I ordered, they were put on the schedule to be made and then came on the slow boat across the ocean. Since I like the 4000 chassis and I have also acquired a Coupe GT, I was afraid I would never have another opportunity for springs once these were discontinued and it looked like that was a real possibility... I ordered two more sets! I ordered nearly six months ago and they showed up last week. I plan to mate them up with some Saches/BOGE shocks and that should cure the mushy ride. The shocks are rotten from age and the springs have NO performance character to them at all. I affectionately call the current suspension setup the "Mashed Potato One" suspension package LOL. 

The suspension upgrade is under way and the entire front is down. The ball joints and tie rod ends are tight, as they should be for so few miles. The control arm bushings are a little questionable and since they have always been a weak link I have 4 new ones. I dropped the entire front suspension, cradle and all. Everything will get wire brushed, cleaned up and given a fresh coat of chassis black paint before re-assembly (thanks Eastwood). I also have new strut mounts since the original ones were soo crusty. 

A question I would pose to my fellow Audi folks, since I am not changing the tie rod ends or ball joints nor disturbing their alignment, should I have the car re-aligned from a spring change? I am guessing the alignment will likely change with the lower stance of the new springs. 

Check out last nights photos: www.jenkinsboys.com/audi4000


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

*Upgrades Continue*

Made more progress last night. More pics at www.jenkinsboys.com/audi4000 

Rear suspension is buttoned up. Front parts are cleaned, painted and ready for re-assembly. 

I did run into a problem, well two actually. First problem was minor and just a pain in the ass to fix. When I was taking the rear shock mounts loose, I dropped the top nut and washer and lost it behind the gas tank. It went right between the tank and back seat mounting panel. I fished around with a telescoping magnet and got it caught on something and it broke off... Now I had missing pieces and a potential rattler lost in the abyss. I bit the bullet and emptied the trunk. I took the spare tire out, trunk fascia out and then loosened the gas tank. I was able to retrieve all pieces but it was a serious time suck on what should have been such a simple rear shock change. 

The next problem was much bigger and start Wednesday evening. I have done control arm bushings on later 4000/B2 chassis cars and they can be stuck and challenging but doable. This car has the early control arm and bushing style. Getting them out was rough but now the little bastards won't go back in. I greased, I sprayed with silicone, I talked sweet to them, I swore at them, I tried gentle persuasion and ultimately brute force... No Joy. What to do? When all else fails, read the directions! 

I broke out the Bentley Manual and found reference to specialty tool number 3039. It appears to be a funnel like sleeve that the bushing presses into which compresses the lip to allow it to pass into the control arm, of course I don't own specialty tool number 3039. I (wrongly) thought that by sleeping on it, I may have some great epiphany about getting them pressed in -or- some help from a friend -or- just another fresh try that was not at 11PM might make the magic happen... yeah right. 

Google and forum searches lead me to Zelenda to find the tool is $95 plus shipping and God only knows if it is in stock and how long to get it. No control arms are a show stopper. This is definitely looking to affect my plan of going to the Columbus Audi GTG Saturday and starting to jeopardize the trip to Carlise, all over some $3 bushings. 

I then started looking for complete control arms and found some on eBay but in California. About $70/ea makes it start looking like new arms with new bushings and fresh paint was likely how I should have approached it in the first place and not much more money than the tool. Now I am back to long distance and shipping time. 

Thursday/Yesterday morning I resigned myself to the fact that I need to order either control arms or the tool and worse yet, suck up the overnight shipping to keep things on schedule. Instead of using my phone for internet research, in the dark, from the tailgate of the pickup, I sat down at my office computer and started looking around, then I found it! Hans Auto Parts www.hansautoparts.com was east coast in NC, had the arms in stock and holy smokes they were only $15/ea. I still sucked it up on $120 overnight shipping but hey the arms were so cheap it was still a deal. I looked around their website and they have some pretty cool VW/Audi parts for super prices. It is worth a visit. 

I hate to utter the words (or type them), China has become less and less of a "bad word" and source of poor quality. Heck, most of what we can find in car parts across multiple makers/brands are from China as aftermarket and damn if they aren't OE parts in a lot of cases now. I think the control arms are Grazzmetal brand, and the only choice in the market if you can't find New Old Stock genuine VW/Audi. They also had ball joints and tie rod ends for great prices and I decided to just go for those as well. All told, I bought two control arms w/bushings, two ball joints, two tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, strut top nuts & overnight shipping for $179.68 My only disappointment would be no bolts/hardware with the ball joints but for $4/ea how can I complain too loudly? 

I just can't shut up about my amazement at $15.00 control arms, $4.00 Ball joints & $5.00 tie rod ends!!! 

Hopefully tonight, I get her back on the ground and rolling on the new suspension parts. I will update again soon. 

Stephen


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

*Nearly Ready for Carlisle*

A very productive weekend. 

Finished up the suspension late Friday, early Saturday morning. Had the car aligned and then met the Columbus Audi GTG folks at City Barbecue in Gahanna. 

The suspension came together great. I have to admit that I was a little worried when I compared the new B&G front spring to the stock one, uncompressed there was almost a six inch difference. 

I think I now know why B&G didn't list this car in the application guide. I was reading in the Bentley Manual that there were two different style springs, one that was the same diameter coils top to bottom and one where the last coil on each end was tighter/smaller diameter. Fortunately I had the later style so my spring seats and perches were correct for the B&Gs, lucky me! 

Everything is scraped, painted, fresh, tidy and back together. The sway bar was challenging to remount though. I figured out that the suspension had to be compressed with the weight of the car to re-install the bar. I placed jack stands under the ball joints and let the lift down, thank you Sir Isaac Newton. 

I also did a little "hidden" body work on the front valence where the previous owner had hit a curb stop. Those Harbor Freight body hammers really do work! I was quite proud of my metal smoothing skills and took some photos of the primer but was so excited to install the spoiler that I forgot to take painted photos. Probably all for the better since the paint mix was significantly off in color. Instead of "Indiana Red" I think the boys at Sherwin Williams mixed "Dry Bloody Scab" for the color... The couple of touched up sots on the door look better than nothing but I am definitely disappointed in the very dark color differential. It is un-catalyzed single stage enamel so I figure it will simply polish of with some compound when I try again for a better color match of touch up paint. The front valence on the other hand is hidden behind the spoiler and the work was more for anti-rust than cosmetics. 

The car has COMPLETELY different road manners. It now feels like a sports car rather than a mush wagon, Sunday geriatric driver. When accelerating, the nose no longer rises so high that small aircraft warnings are issued, the car stays nice and level. Taking the freeway ramp at 50+MPH is no longer a suicide mission. Aside from the lack of control that the Automatic offers versus a 5spd, it drives out quite respectably. She will hold her own even better in this fall's October Spook Run. 

I also like that the car just looks better with the lower stance. The NOS Kamei spoiler has been a major improvement as well, the nose finally looks "finished" rather than like something is missing. 

On my way to the Audi GTG, the $10 exhaust tip silently disappeared on I270. Apologies if it ended up in some poor sap's grill or windshield, damn Chinese junk. I took it as an omen that it was not meant to be so I just painted the rest of the exhaust tip matte black and moved on. 

As for wheel center caps I mentioned previously, I had some really cool red/carbon fiber look BBS caps ordered but they will not fit the wheels on the car. Close but too loose, so no cosmetic change there. 

After a great weekend and about 200 miles on the new suspension, I got up this morning and drove her to work, Just Because I Could! Well that and it was sooo fun to do so. Actually made me smile on this morning's commute rather than pre-occupying my mind with fantasies of employing the "Pit Maneuver" on the lousy drivers that surround me at 7AM. 

I plan to get the windows tinted Wednesday with the best window tinter I have ever found, kudos to Mike Riley at Ziebart Reynoldsburg, OH. He tinted my 2013 Chevrolet Cruze and even though it is not a vintage Audi, VW or Porsche, I am just as picky and meticulous with it. He is conscientious, careful and downright a true craftsman. There is a lot of crappy window tint out there and any schmuck can call himself a tinter (hell I have even tinted a couple of cars myself) but Mike is the master! 

Next, I re-install the back seat, wash & detail and she is ready for Carlisle! 

This coming Mother's Day weekend, I plan to do the wash & detail followed by a photo shoot at my parent's farm. They have a beautiful lake and covered bridge in the backyard for a nice back drop.


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## case m (May 21, 2009)

Wow. Amazing car and history. The guys on the quattroworld 4000 forum would love to see this if you've not posted it there. http://forums.quattroworld.com/4000/


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## Driggs (Jul 23, 2002)

STephan 

Car looks great! Cant wait to see it at carlisle this year again.. I had the 84 4ksq with bbs rm's last year.. This year Ill be rolling in a 82 4k diesel.. 

Funny thing is last year I also got a brand new in box kamei front spoiler!! With all documents and stickers 


















 I wasnt sure about mounting it to the diesel but maybe I will just to steal your thunder  

Have any pics of how you mounted it? 

Mike


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

case m said:


> Wow. Amazing car and history. The guys on the quattroworld 4000 forum would love to see this if you've not posted it there. http://forums.quattroworld.com/4000/


 I have been considering expanding over to Quattroworld and/or Audifans forums. I guess since I started with my Sciroccos on VW Vortex, I have just stayed in one "sand box".


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

xMIKEx said:


> STephan
> 
> Car looks great! Cant wait to see it at carlisle this year again.. I had the 84 4ksq with bbs rm's last year.. This year Ill be rolling in a 82 4k diesel..
> 
> ...


 I found mine on eBay from a company in up-state NY. they had one listed for a 4cyl as well but it looked a little different than the one I received that was specified 5cyl. I probably should have bought it also and kind of regret not doing so. 

As for mounting, I did not photo the holes I drilled. I drilled 6 holes as it did not mate to any existing holes in the apron. I used a 9/32 bit and nylon plugs/nuts that I found in the Oreilly Auto Parts fastener section. They were kind of like license plate fasteners but were packs of an assortment from Dorman (click here). It took two packs to get 6 plugs that fit round holes the same size as most were meant for square holes. I looked through my tool box and couldn't find any square drill bits...


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

*Window Tint*

Mike did the window tint last night. Sublime!

I love the look of the tint, the attention to detail that was employed and the UV protection it will provide for the interior.

Check out the photos:
www.jenkinsboys.com/audi4000


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## dat521gatherer (Nov 30, 2009)

I love this car. Keep up the good work You are doing an excellent job. 

I picked up a 4000 4dr a few months ago. Not nearly as nice as your 2dr though.


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## gt-ire (Jul 13, 2010)

Love it!


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

*Finishing Touches*

Last night I added a couple of last minute touches. Back in the day we just called them H1s and H4s but the "cool kids" now call them "E Codes", so I now have new E Codes installed.

I also have not been happy with the water temp the car runs. Other 5cyl cars I have had, my two previous Coupe GTs, a 4kq and even a Quantum GL5, all ran hot. They would run at nearly 3/4 on the temp gauge and the fan kicks on about one needle above the 3/4 mark. Maybe it is my domestic ownership but it was always my belief that they should run a little closer to half way on the gauge and the fan not run so damn much when in traffic. This 4000 has been no different on coolant temp so I decided to chase the issue. 

I first tried drilling a couple of relief holes in the thermostat flange to allow some constant coolant flow but saw no change. I then found an alternate temperature thermostat through Autozone. Instead of 180F it is rated at 160F. The box was Duralast branded but the unit itself was stamped Motorad. I installed that and drove it for a couple of days. Partial success, it now ran cooler and near middle gauge on the open road but the temp would still rise to 3/4 and run the fan almost constantly in town and it hasn't even been that warm here. Further research took me to a "Warmer Climate" fan switch that was about 10F colder closure temp. 

Finally, I have an Audi 5cyl 10V engine that runs at middle gauge and doesn't crest above 2/3 gauge. The fan seems to cycle much less than before. My theory is that since it is not allowed to run at such a hot temp it doesn't cascade to a tipping point in temperature and isn't as hard to get back down to a lower temp with the electric fan.

My next problem is concern about making it to Carlisle, health wise. My neck has been killing me and I am having pain and finger numbness on my right side/arm from a pinched nerve. I haven't slept for crap for 3 nights now and I am running on coffee and 5 hour energy... I am really concerned about the 5 hour drive to Carlisle. I see the chiropractor again tonight and hope for some significant improvement before tomorrow morning...


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## Maggiolone (Aug 20, 2007)

sgjii said:


> Last night I added a couple of last minute touches. Back in the day we just called them H1s and H4s but the "cool kids" now call them "E Codes", so I now have new E Codes installed.
> 
> I also have not been happy with the water temp the car runs. Other 5cyl cars I have had, my two previous Coupe GTs, a 4kq and even a Quantum GL5, all ran hot. They would run at nearly 3/4 on the temp gauge and the fan kicks on about one needle above the 3/4 mark. Maybe it is my domestic ownership but it was always my belief that they should run a little closer to half way on the gauge and the fan not run so damn much when in traffic. This 4000 has been no different on coolant temp so I decided to chase the issue.
> 
> ...


Usually a pinched (sciatic) nerve might give you leg pain over arm tingling. 

I'd stop seeing that chiro and get yourself to a cardiologist or neurologist and have some imaging done. At the least, an EKG.


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

It is my cervical spine area, around C4/C5/C6. I am paying the piper for auto accidents of the past. I have had wrist pain and finger numbness previously and thought it was carpel tunnel related but was informed from x-rays and diagnosis, that it was cervical spine related. This time it started in the wrist but has escalated to encompass from the shoulder to the fingers. If it were just the numbness I could handle it but the burning and aching is brutal.

Walking and standing are the best but I can't lay down or sit for long periods. The primary issue that kept me from Carlisle this year was the lack of sleep for the preceding 4days and second place was I didn't think I could hack the 5+hrs in the car to get there, when 45min is about tops I can do at the moment.

Sorry I wasn't there this year and it was a tough decision.

I do appreciate the concern from all and yes I have had a cardio work up.


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

*Fall Update*

Well Fall is officially a couple of days away and it is time to start considering what things I want to do to wrap up the season before putting Genevieve to bed for the winter. Of course I can't do that before the annual Spook Run though.

The odo just passed 17,000 the other day. The spring & suspension work that I did this season has been doing fine but a few things have hit my radar as needing attention.

1) Cruise Control hasn't worked since stereo install last year and I am sure the module needs dis-assembled and the solder connections refreshed as it used to work prior to being disturbed
2) Wish I had wired the radio to switched 12V instead of constant 12V, so that change can be made
3) AC compressor is growling and belt sequels periodically ***Does anybody know if the compressor bearing can be changed or if I need a reman compressor? Either way, probably need to get the R12 pumped down and compressor off the car
4) Headlight switch wasn't originally working when I got the car and I rehab'ed it at the time. It has never felt as crisp as I thought it should so I am on the hunt for an early style 4000 brown headlight switch, Anybody got one?
5) I have already purchased a headlight relay/harness kit to take the load off the headlight switch so I need to get that installed to go with the E codes
6) I found a better route/fitment fuel line from the pump to accumulator, need to install that
7) While I have the fuel delivery apart, I need to use the pump mounting plate as a template to fab a plate for the 82 Coupe GT Project that I will be starting soon.
8) Lastly I already had a rare early factory fog light switch and I want to add fogs to the car. I had some NOS Bosch Amber Compass series but I used those on my Jeep project. I really like the crisp yellow look of the Compass series so I need to source another pair.

Now that I have listed it all out, I doubt I will get it all done this fall. I think I will prioritize the fuel delivery project so it gives me the ability to work on the Coupe further.


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## philsburydonuts (Feb 25, 2006)

Thats awesome! :thumbup:


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

*Going to: Carlisle Kit & Import Nationals 2014*

Been a while since I last posted but the spring is bringing car show time again.

I just registered for Carlisle 2014. God willing and the creek don't rise, I should be there this year.

Updates from 2013: Changes to the car were the addition of a small, no drill, trunk lip spoiler in black to match the Kamei front airdam. I also add an LED third brake light. I was pleased with the look and outcome of both projects.

I updated the main title page photo with a gorgeous shot taken by Thunderbox at the October 2013 Spook Run in Ohio.

I bought a second house that I am re-habbing, so the auto projects have fallen to the back burner. I don't really have anything planned for the car this year. I do have a Helios Blue 1982 Coupe GT that I want to start the project on but that has been in limbo for a year now. 

On the note of the Coupe GT, I keep trolling the B2 parts section but I have not yet found something I need to get that project off the ground. I need a fuel pump/accumulator/filter bracket that sits under the passenger rear of the car. The previous owner removed that and did not replace it or include it with the car. If you have one or know of one I would be greatly appreciative. Check out my WTB posting here :Fuel Pump Bracket


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## 82vwRabbit (Apr 3, 2003)

Not sure if you're over at quattroworld as well but here's a link to the latest Carlisle thread for 2014. 

http://forums.quattroworld.com/4000/msgs/90404.phtml


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

*Preparing for Carlisle & AC drama.*

In preparation for Carlisle, unpacked the old girl and started checking systems for readiness to make the trip.

Battery was killed over the winter... yeah warranty.

After the new battery install, she fired right up. Checked and balanced tire pressure, changed the oil, checked fluids and took a short drive.

I had to clean all the windows as they had that "haze" on them.

Everything appears to work and is in order except the AC. Two years ago I had it charged and she blew cold for 2 summers. This year, the compressor clutch engages and appears normal in operation but no joy, hot air...

Found a local Craigslist guy that had cans of R12 for what seemed like a fortune at $30/can. What are you gonna do? So $60 later, I had two cans of R12, a borrowed set of manifold gauges and a can tap.

I have discovered I know nearly nothing about automotive AC... The Bentley Manual, for all of its great wealth of information is WORTHLESS for the AC system. In trying to determine the location of the low side port, I found conflicting information on the location of the low side port. I am probably lucky that I escaped harm. A Google search produced a Vortex post regarding 4000 AC and indicated that the low side port was under the radiator shroud. Had I read further I would have found that post refuted and corrected but on the tiny screen of the phone, who has time to read the whole thing?

I hooked up my gauges, and the can of R12 and of course got no flow of R12 into the system, luckily it didn't over pressure the can and explode. After determining that "something wasn't right", I found the following diagram:









This would indicated that the low side port is actually the one at the compressor.

I tried again with connecting the low side near the compressor and the high side under the radiator shroud.

Things started with about 50PSI on the high and around 15PSI on the low. After providing R12 to the system, I now have about 85PSI on the low and 100PSI on the high, still no joy. After some additional reading, things should be closer to 30PSI on the low and around 150/200PSI on the high.

















Based on the diagnosis table, I might have too much refrigerant in the system.

Now it is back to the professional, where I should have started. I just can't get past the thought that I should be able to do everything myself...

See you all at Carlisle (likely with warm AC).


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

At Carlisle, having a great day. Things are winding down with many cars and parts vendors packing it in.

I did get the AC "professionally" looked at before I left. Fresh top off of R12 by somebody who knew what they were doing (thanks Don's Auto Air Zanesville, OH) and I now need to wear eye protection so as to not get injured from the ice cubes flying from the vents LOL. Blows nice and cold, just as it should.

Learned some cool info from the welding seminar and even won a $10 gift card to the Market Cross Pub, spinning the wheel.

I also can't forget to mention the wonderful breakfast sponsored by Sun Motors Audi Mechanicsburg. What a spread they put out for us. It was greatly appreciated and a great start to the day.


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

*AC Update*

I completely forgot to update about the AC.

I did get it fixed before Carlisle and had cold AC but didn't need it, because mother nature provided plenty of her own that weekend.

Turns out I was low on R12. Likely got none of my wasted can into the system.

Approximately $225 later and the professional touches of Don's Auto Air in Zanesville, OH and all is good.

Sounds like a lot of money but it was all in the R12. The labor was under $50...

Had a leaking schrader valve on the low side port and just needed a proper professional to refill the system with R12.


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## mkte (Jan 17, 2015)

*1980 Audi*

Hi do you still have this? Do you know anyone who may have one for sale or would you consider selling yours?

I drove one in college that my step dad gave me. Thanks! Marc


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

Took awhile to respond but yes I do still have the car.

Not actively looking to sell but I have learned over time that everything could be for sale for the right price 

PM me with a ridiculous offer and see if blows my skirt up.


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## VWnotacar (Nov 19, 2005)

sgjii: I had the same car, 2dr, color, sunroof, manual tranny, I bought it brand new in Sept 1979. $10,828...yea, I still remember the price I paid! I thought that was a lot and very nervous about it, monthly payments for 4 yrs yikes, I was 29
It was the only new car I've ever owned. I have only 1 remaining picture of it...it even had the same gold pin-stripping. I did a few mods to it, kamie front ad, rear spoiler, different than yours, IIRC it was made by Zender out of a softish foam and fit the contour of the trunk perfectly. Car was lowered by shop (cut coils) as NO available alternative back then. I replaced the stock Audi/Vw alloys with 14" Vial basket weave gold centers. I always hated the stainless trim on the car (still don't like chrome trim either) anyway I took All offending parts off and had them powder coated, I think that cost around $120 back then. This required removal of fr/r window glass, I remember having trouble reinstalling until I went to glass shop and saw how to do it. Piece of cake.
My love affair ended just about the time I had completed payments and warranty had expired, my transmission started making noise, I had it fixed and started to go out again (right after that warranty expired) so I got rid of it.
This car was my first water cooled Audi/VW and those 2 makes have been my only cars since then, I've had Rabbits, Passat sedan & wagon, Audi Coupe, Jetta Mk2, Golf Mk2. I currently have a Mk4 Jetta GLS 1999.5 AEG 2.0 with 240K on it and not looking to buy another car...EVER. I'll fix whatever breaks. Not at all a fan of the newer VW's Jetta MK5,6,7 they now look like a Toyota Audi is still a nice looking car though. I wonder how much an Audi equivalent to the 4000 would cost comparing 4000 to Audis today?

Anyway, your 4000 looks a lot like mine did back in the day. What a great find. Very nice write up too. Cheers


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

Thank you. Would love to see a pic of yours.


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

Been awhile since I posted. Went to Carlisle this May 2015 and had a great time but not without hiccup this year. In my quest for comfort I had the AC topped off a little before the trip and this year the compressor was complaining even more than last year. Less than 5 minutes into the trip I kick the AC on while on I70. Mark behind me said it was quite spectacular as he watched my small fortune in R12 along with belt smoke and the oil charge billow into the sky and roll over his windshield. I threw a rod, in the AC compressor that is. Literally the compressor locked and the rod ventilated the side of the compressor housing.

I have acquired a replacement compressor but my work travel has not allowed the time to install yet...


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## Thunderbox (Aug 29, 2008)

When you are ready to install it I would like to bring Richards CGT out and see if we can bring his A/C back to life as well. Let me know.


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## =CC= (Mar 15, 2014)

sgjii said:


> Been awhile since I posted. Went to Carlisle this May 2015 and had a great time but not without hiccup this year. In my quest for comfort I had the AC topped off a little before the trip and this year the compressor was complaining even more than last year. Less than 5 minutes into the trip I kick the AC on while on I70. Mark behind me said it was quite spectacular as he watched my small fortune in R12 along with belt smoke and the oil charge billow into the sky and roll over his windshield. I threw a rod, in the AC compressor that is. Literally the compressor locked and the rod ventilated the side of the compressor housing.
> 
> I have acquired a replacement compressor but my work travel has not allowed the time to install yet...


Similar thing happened to my non functioning compressor in my 90 a couple years ago. I ended up cutting the belt and rolling on down the road. This spring, my radiator crapped the bed, so while I was replacing it, I removed all the AC components from the engine bay....my 90 went on a crash diet and lost about 20 pounds, lol.

It's a roasty ride, but I love that car. Unfortunately, I think I only have another couple of years with the old beast, as she has terminal underbody rust. It'll be a sad day when she's no longer road worthy.


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## sgjii (Nov 14, 2010)

*Bed for the Winter*

Another summer and another set of fun & memories.

Carlisle, blown AC compressor, Columbus GTG, Annual Spook Run, passed the 20,000 milestone and two girlfriends.

The 4000 is now washed, oil changed, in a stall and battery disconnected. Some Decon in the garage corner to keep mice interested in something other than the wiring and interior.

Looks like the AC compressor will be a spring project now. I have a Jeep XJ to prep for sale and two GM 3100 V6 engines that need extensive attention (lower intakes and heads on one) and a Ranger PU to prep for sale for my folks. Once I power through those projects, I would still like to turn my attention to the 82 Coupe GT this winter, which has been a back burner project for 2 years now.

Snowed yesterday and was 26 degrees this morning... looks like my future is a few months of numb fingers to turn wrenches.

Happy Holidays to All,
Stephen


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