# VR6 Turbo Ghia



## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

Selection criteria for the project - I can do almost all the work myself, inexpensive, mid engine, high power to weight ratio, old, cool, simple to work on, good parts availability and following. The finished car will be a daily driver, not a show car and not a race car however it should be fast and handle well. A Ghia fit the bill, I first thought a 16v 2.0 would be good until a mechanic suggested a VR6. Once I looked into it this made a lot of sense. Also turned out he had a low mileage 12v with an 02A transaxle and complete harness for $800! I found an unstarted 68 project car complete with a 3/4 rear clip and tons of parts for $2000.


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

*First pictures and tear down*

I started about a year ago now these are from last spring.


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

*Rust*

This shows the rust that had to be repaired


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

*Rust repairs*

This is a string of pictures showing rust repair.


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

*Some ideas don't work - here's an examlple*

The first rear suspension design was to narrow the Passat subframe, cut off the engine mount perches turn the subframe 180 degrees and connect it to the torque tube. In this arrangement the control arms would be in a trailing position. I measured this several times but when I started assembling, it became pretty clear the motor would have to be too high or the suspension too low...back to the drawing board.


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

*Placing the VR6*

Since the first design failed I thought a good idea would be to place the engine in the car and design around it. So I got a new sub frame and control arms. Here are the pictures.


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

*Rear Frame Fabrication*

So after locating the motor in the car the frame was designed around the engine and planned for connection to the torque tube the struts/suspension and welding to the body. In the middle of the process I arranged for a local race car builder to come by and offer ideas on improving the design - a very worthwhile exercise once it was tacked together it went out to a professional welder another worthwhile task.










Apparently Ghias flex right behind the seats so with 10 times the horsepower the car was originally designed for it might be a good idea to stiffen this area.


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

*More suspension pictures*

These pictures show the tubes for the rear struts, the control arms were shortened by 2.5" each side, the axles shortened to fit, I used two long axles as they are tubular and therefore easier for the machine shop to cut, center in the lathe and re-weld.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

From the pictures, it looks like this will be a mid-engine transplant? Motor in front of rear wheel center-line. That puts VR goodness(intake sounds) right at you back, so it appears.


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

ps2375 said:


> From the pictures, it looks like this will be a mid-engine transplant? Motor in front of rear wheel center-line. That puts VR goodness(intake sounds) right at you back, so it appears.


Mid engine is right, basically taking the complete power plant sub-frame and suspension from a 97 Jetta and mounting it in the rear of a Karmann Ghia. The way the Ghias are built though offers some room behind the front seats, so unlike the mid engine GTI swaps where you sit right next to the engine in the Ghia there should be about 2 feet behind the front seats before the engine bay, I also have plans for sound proofing the firewall so that VR6 sound should be just right :thumbup:

This picture shows the frame/engine behind the cross member where the seats install. Thanks for your post :wave:


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

I guess its been a long tome since I was in a Ghia, I didn't realize they had that much room behind the seats. BTW, what management are you planning on using on the motor?


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

ps2375 said:


> I guess its been a long tome since I was in a Ghia, I didn't realize they had that much room behind the seats. BTW, what management are you planning on using on the motor?


Yeah the engine mostly sits inside what was a luggage compartment.










I am going to try and retain as much of the rear seat as I can 












With the management system I want to keep things as simple as possible, I had a VEMs system in my last car (URS4) and although it functioned flawlessly I never really used it after I had it professionally tuned. So I decided to go with the C2 stage 2 software and the stock ECU, the car would be really fast with a stock N/A VR6 so with a turbo and cams etc. there should be more than enough power to get into trouble


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

I'm partial to MS, myself. I suppose a stock ECU with the C2 tune on it will be "safe" and as it'll be boosted, make plenty if not a lot of power. OBDI or OBDII? MKIII I'm guessing?

And damn, there will still be plenty of room. Are you putting the cooling stuff at the rear, where motor used to be?


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

ps2375 said:


> I'm partial to MS, myself. I suppose a stock ECU with the C2 tune on it will be "safe" and as it'll be boosted, make plenty if not a lot of power. OBDI or OBDII? MKIII I'm guessing?
> 
> And damn, there will still be plenty of room. Are you putting the cooling stuff at the rear, where motor used to be?



Yeah the C2 will be safe and simple the ECU is OBDII, and you are right again about the cooling I am going to try to put it in the rear, I found a triple core all aluminum rad from a jeep Cherokee around 13" high by 30" wide and I can run three fans on it, I'll have to do a tiny mod to make it fit between the rear frame rails. I am still undecided if I will put the IC in front of the rad or mount it in the area between the back window and the trunk, in either location there will be 2 trunks in the car one in the front and one where the engine used to be.:thumbup:


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

You could go air to water intercooler, you have the room and I hear they are better that air to air.


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

ps2375 said:


> You could go air to water intercooler, you have the room and I hear they are better that air to air.


Your suggestion for an A2W IC got me thinking, so I did some reading. I initially thought that it was only for setups that used ice for racing but have learned differently. It seems that A2W has been used on some OEM applications by Ford for SC vehicles, there is a very informative thread on a corvette website http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-...ir-to-air-vs-air-to-water-intercoolers-3.html

After reading this and other info it became apparent like many mods it all depends on application and each situation has its challenges.

The bonus is that I think I have decided A2A and to go with the area behind the back window. The system is simple, very short, and should work well. One thing I didn't read about A2W and came to mind is that a leak in an A2A system means lost boost a leak in an A2W system could be a lost motor!


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## najort32 (Sep 8, 2004)

*vr ghia*

Hi I did a similer conversion look up my thread vrt bug it might help you. good luck with the project!


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

najort32 said:


> Hi I did a similer conversion look up my thread vrt bug it might help you. good luck with the project!


Your build is very impressive, is it complete? Was it for track only or is it a street driver as well? Hope its OK I may be contacting you for help, particularly when it comes to wiring. I've gutted the Ghia's harness and plan on replacing it with a street rod set up connected to the 97 Jetta harness trying to keep it as simple as possible. You do excellent work. Thanks for the post!


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## najort32 (Sep 8, 2004)

*vrt ghia*

feel free to contact me any time, the car is been complete ,I should post an update .it was built for street use and occasional track, I am using stand alone megasquirt which I would recommend for a project of this kind . you can use any stand alone of your choice . make your own wiring harness . in the long run it will be neater than piecing together the factory harness . I hope this helps


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## Nevaeh_Speed (Jul 9, 2004)

Cool project.


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

najort32 said:


> feel free to contact me any time, the car is been complete ,I should post an update .it was built for street use and occasional track, I am using stand alone megasquirt which I would recommend for a project of this kind . you can use any stand alone of your choice . make your own wiring harness . in the long run it will be neater than piecing together the factory harness . I hope this helps


This does help and I appreciate your offer of help! I have had a stand alone system - VEMS - in my URS4 which worked very well however I had it set up professionally and didn't alter it again. Previous to that I had a Total Audi Performance stage 2 chipset which wasn't as good but then wasn't as expensive. 

This time I am going to use C2 stage 2 software in the OBD2 ECU as it is simple, inexpensive and I will match the rest of the package CR spacer, 4" MAF housing, 262cams, GT35 anti surge turbo 70AR cold side 68AR hot side, Bosch 42lb injectors, 255lph pump and fuel reg. With the power this will produce in a 2000lb car it should be exciting. 

The wiring will be as you recommend, I have removed the stock harness and will be replacing it with a complete new generic harness, fuse box, ignition switch, etc. For the motor I have the stock harness which is in very good condition.

Thanks again


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

Nevaeh_Speed said:


> Cool project.


Thanks


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

*Mechanical progress pictures*

Here is the mechanical progress - turbo planning, head spacer installed, ARP rod bolts and new oil pump, water pump, crack pipe, thermostat housing, waiting on cams. LSD install into the 02A.


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

*Progress 4/14*


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## groundupjetta (Feb 1, 2010)

bad a$$ :thumbup:


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## kda33 (Jan 27, 2005)

This looks like it will be fun


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## MRosier (Sep 17, 2006)

Sick build! Getting the oil cap off to add oil looks tricky.


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

groundupjetta said:


> bad a$$ :thumbup:


x2


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

*Oil Cap*

Yeah I think the oil cap is going to stay there, I could have cut a hole in the back window shelf for it, but I decided I didn't want to do oil changes inside the car. I am going to get a catch can with a large opening in the top and connect it to the oil pan where the turbo drains. 

The main design thing I am working on now is the shift linkage. I have a shifter assembly from a Toyota MR2 (about the only non-VAG part in the car), shift cables from a Boxter, and cable mounting bracket from a Passat. Other fun stuff will be the pedal assembly/master cylinders, throttle linkage, hydraulic clutch line, brake lines, oh yeah the electrical 

Anyway its coming along I've been at it part time for a year and I'd like to drive it this summer.

Thanks for your comments :beer:


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## Old Windy (Apr 1, 2009)

This car is going to need a parachute for when you slow down. But [email protected] this is going to be awesome. :thumbup:


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## najort32 (Sep 8, 2004)

*nice job*

nice


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## 85vrcoupe (Oct 7, 2002)

:thumbup: Definitely following for progress on this opcorn:


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## vr-vagman (May 15, 2010)

May be an AWIC setup would be the better solution here?


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

*AWIC*










vr-vagman said:


> May be an AWIC setup would be the better solution here?


























Thanks for the suggestion, this was discussed at post 15 & 16. Here is an interesting article on W2A vs A2A 

http://www.enginebasics.com/Advanced Engine Tuning/Water vs Air Intercooler.html

The intercooler didn't end up where I wanted it, the original plan was to have it on top of the motor just behind the rear window. Unfortunately after all the measuring the engine sits too high in the car so the intercooler had to be relocated to where you see it in the photos I may still consider W2A, we'll see where everything lands.

I am making good progress, she is sitting on all four wheels now. Most of the hoses intake and exhaust has been figured out and installed now. What originally looked like a lot of room is now getting filled in.

Thanks for your comments it helps with motivation!

Anybody want to suggest a color?

Cheers:beer:


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## vr-vagman (May 15, 2010)

I'm sorry I didn't read every post untill now. From your link to "Engine Basics" it's even more clear you just don't have too many options but to go for A2W IC, except if you plan to cut reshape... etc that beautifull car body. As said in the links, the A2A needs a lot of air flow which is impossible with the 2 vents behind the rear window. I really like very much you work and exacty that model. I wouldn't dare to change the outside look/design by adding outside air vents, hood scoops ...etc. Actually I think the cold air sourcing for your turbo intake and the charge cooling are your main challenges from that moment on. The hot air (where your air filter is located) behind the rear bench and the poor IC efficiency are much more dangerous than few drops of water in the intake manifold. Some people even spray water in the intake in search for more cooling 
I remember few turbo Porsche 996's I've seen on local dynos. Just after the first run the power always started to drop due to insufficient flow to the A2A coolers (means high IAT) although a carpet dryer fan was aimed at every side intercooler. 
One last thing. I see you engine control is MAF based. With such system usually the BOV vented air should be recirculated back to the turbo inlet, behind the MAF. Otherwise your engine could/will experience overfueling every time when throttle is closed under some boost.
I hope that helps a bit.

P.S. What is behind the front two vents? Can't you source the cold high speed/pressure air from these vents to one or two water cooler radiators?


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

vr-vagman said:


> I'm sorry I didn't read every post untill now. From your link to "Engine Basics" it's even more clear you just don't have too many options but to go for A2W IC, except if you plan to cut reshape... etc that beautifull car body. As said in the links, the A2A needs a lot of air flow which is impossible with the 2 vents behind the rear window. I really like very much you work and exacty that model. I wouldn't dare to change the outside look/design by adding outside air vents, hood scoops ...etc. Actually I think the cold air sourcing for your turbo intake and the charge cooling are your main challenges from that moment on. The hot air (where your air filter is located) behind the rear bench and the poor IC efficiency are much more dangerous than few drops of water in the intake manifold. Some people even spray water in the intake in search for more cooling
> I remember few turbo Porsche 996's I've seen on local dynos. Just after the first run the power always started to drop due to insufficient flow to the A2A coolers (means high IAT) although a carpet dryer fan was aimed at every side intercooler.
> One last thing. I see you engine control is MAF based. With such system usually the BOV vented air should be recirculated back to the turbo inlet, behind the MAF. Otherwise your engine could/will experience overfueling every time when throttle is closed under some boost.
> I hope that helps a bit.
> ...



Thanks for your response! I have no plans to cut or add scoops, I agree with you regarding the beauty of this design. Other custom cars have used the front vents but they have to be enlarged to work which I don't like and of course there is all the plumbing. 

I know that cooling will be a challenge hence I am using a rad with over 50% more cooling capacity than stock, there are currently 2 fans mounted and I could add one more. I will be ducting air from under the car as well as the two vents behind the rear window, these vents create a huge volume of air when the car is in motion. Another thought I had was to add a rear pan under the back of the car to draw air out, similar to the rear pan on the turbo 944s. Here is a pressure map of the Karmann Ghia.










As you mentioned the BOV will be recirculated after the MAF and before the turbo, if you look up a couple of photos you can see the tube I made mounted to the turbo. Your comments have made me think that an isolated air source for the intake would probably be a good idea. I will also be insulating and ducting exhaust heat out of the engine bay. Another idea would be to add water methanol injection. We'll see how this set up works first. The car will weight about 2000lbs and should have about 400HP, I might not want any more power

Thanks again for your help:thumbup:


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## vr-vagman (May 15, 2010)

Oh no!
I don't consider my opinion as help. We are just talking here about our hobby. From what I see you dont'need help. Also I'm very very careful to give advices over the forums. Usually I share what I'd do if I was on somebody's place. People are so touchy these days Where did you get this pressure map ? Is is based on CFD model or on real measurements?

BTW if you haven't mentioned so far, almost every 3rd or 4th engine on this forum has suffered from piston melt or similar detonation related damages most frequently on 1,3,5 cylinder. Usually a faulty injector is the blamed part but that's not always the truth. It's just easier to explain and accept. If we add the fact your engine would probably work in a hotter environment and ... of course if I was you, I'd have a look at that site/device: http://www.jandssafeguard.com/ It will definitely keep your investment in metal secure + I know the man! 
Good luck with your car. I'll be around and watching your progress.
Thanks for sharing it with us.


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

vr-vagman said:


> Oh no!
> I don't consider my opinion as help. We are just talking here about our hobby. From what I see you dont'need help. Also I'm very very careful to give advices over the forums. Usually I share what I'd do if I was on somebody's place. People are so touchy these days Where did you get this pressure map ? Is is based on CFD model or on real measurements?
> 
> BTW if you haven't mentioned so far, almost every 3rd or 4th engine on this forum has suffered from piston melt or similar detonation related damages most frequently on 1,3,5 cylinder. Usually a faulty injector is the blamed part but that's not always the truth. It's just easier to explain and accept. If we add the fact your engine would probably work in a hotter environment and ... of course if I was you, I'd have a look at that site/device: http://www.jandssafeguard.com/ It will definitely keep your investment in metal secure + I know the man!
> ...


I consider others opinion as help but not necessarily advice, I hold no one liable of course. The pressure map I think is from a modeling software as oppose to real measurements - source - http://www.basilari.com/body-to-chassis-work/. The pressure at the base of the back window has been experienced by a trusted source and the force is significant to say the least.

The knock controller looks like good insurance for the cost, as noted I am running a C2 stage 2 chipped OEM ECU will this work in conjunction or do I need to run standalone? Piston damage in my experience tends to relate to either low octane fuel or over boosting stock components...perhaps a poor injector. I will be running new 42lb bosch green giants, they worked great in my URS4.

Cheers:beer:


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

neat project


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## vr-vagman (May 15, 2010)

Ghizer said:


> I consider others opinion as help but not necessarily advice, I hold no one liable of course. The pressure map I think is from a modeling software as oppose to real measurements - source - http://www.basilari.com/body-to-chassis-work/. The pressure at the base of the back window has been experienced by a trusted source and the force is significant to say the least.
> 
> The knock controller looks like good insurance for the cost, as noted I am running a C2 stage 2 chipped OEM ECU will this work in conjunction or do I need to run standalone? Piston damage in my experience tends to relate to either low octane fuel or over boosting stock components...perhaps a poor injector. I will be running new 42lb bosch green giants, they worked great in my URS4.
> 
> Cheers:beer:


It will work in conjunction. It needs 1 or two knock sensors which a VR engine already has on both sides of its cyl block. It also needs the coil control signal and MAP. I posted this link, because I still see chipped OEM ecus with melted pistons, so I though the OEM knock control probably doesn't work well when engine is tuned.


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

*Jetta or Passat VR6 Shift cables - Help, Please*

Can anybody tell me how long a set of manual shift cables from a VR6 Jetta or Passat Mrk III vintage?


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

*May June Updates*










Here is a close up of the firewall with the master cylinders installed










Pedal cluster note connections to the master cylinders










This is the shifter bracket in progress, it will double as a trans brace










This is the engine bay, all coolant hoses in, turbo and exhaust insulation complete



















This shows the back of the tunnel with the brake, clutch, fuel lines and throttle linkage complete.



















This shows the MR2 shifter with the Boxter cables connected.










Spare tire well with "0" gauge welding cable to connect the battery which will be mounted here.










View of the from suspension with all new components










This shows the front end of the tunnel with the fuel, brake and clutch lines that are inside 1.5" electrical conduit. Also the battery cable which are in their own 3/4" poly pipe.










This shows all the work in the front bay - fuel pump, master cylinders, etc. The mechanical will be done soon, gas tank and a few other small items, then electrical, body, interior, glass and trim


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## Nevaeh_Speed (Jul 9, 2004)

I hope you have some wide wheels on there cause this is gonna be a flying go cart. Man I'm jealous.


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

*Wide wheels*



Nevaeh_Speed said:


> I hope you have some wide wheels on there cause this is gonna be a flying go cart. Man I'm jealous.


Thanks for your comment. I don't want to flare or hack the rear wheel wells and IMO wheels 17" and larger make the car look like a "Hot Wheels" toy :thumbdown:. So considering these factors and wedging in the VR6 (both axles narrowed by 2.5") I am at a 205/50ZR/16 with a 5 on 100 bolt pattern 7" wide wheel all around. I think this will work well up front, but I am relatively certain there won't be enough rubber on the ground out back. Driving in anything less than dry conditions will likely affect my life insurance premiums

The weight is of course over the rear wheels, and its on Ground Control coil overs with good shocks and a heavy sway bar. I have a brace planned to reduce squat. The first set of tires are Continental Extreme Contacts guess we'll see how they stand up. I am shooting for a total weight of 2000lbs a stock Ghia is around 1850, so maybe more go than wheel spin :thumbup:

Cheers :beer:


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## Nevaeh_Speed (Jul 9, 2004)

Well best of luck, its gonna be killer for sure either way. Maybe one day you might just say the hell with it and tub the rear and get some 10 wides back there.


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

*Wirig*

Progress has slowed a little, wiring isn't that much fun for me.  I am trying to strip down the 97 Jetta harness so that only the essential components are left and I only have to supply it with the least amount of wires possible. Hopefully this will make it easy to work on in the future.


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## bansheelos (Nov 29, 2004)

Ghizer said:


> Progress has slowed a little, wiring isn't that much fun for me.  I am trying to strip down the 97 Jetta harness so that only the essential components are left and I only have to supply it with the least amount of wires possible. Hopefully this will make it easy to work on in the future.



Let the fun begin!!!!:beer::thumbup::thumbup:


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## vr-vagman (May 15, 2010)

Ghizer said:


> Progress has slowed a little, wiring isn't that much fun for me.  I am trying to strip down the 97 Jetta harness so that only the essential components are left and I only have to supply it with the least amount of wires possible. Hopefully this will make it easy to work on in the future.
> If you need any help.... I could provide you with wiring shematics for Euro specs cars/Jetta. Just need production year and engine ID letters.


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

vr-vagman said:


> Ghizer said:
> 
> 
> > Progress has slowed a little, wiring isn't that much fun for me.  I am trying to strip down the 97 Jetta harness so that only the essential components are left and I only have to supply it with the least amount of wires possible. Hopefully this will make it easy to work on in the future.
> ...


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## Nevaeh_Speed (Jul 9, 2004)

Build is still Freakin awesome.


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

Thanks for the comments/motivation, after 4 or 5 hours stripping tape and connectors and a couple of packs of zip strip things look a little more manageable.










These shots are installing in the car, I decided not to cut out too much until I have the car running which may not be too long from now.

























Just for fun I lit up the dash.


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## Nevaeh_Speed (Jul 9, 2004)

Too freakin' cool.


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

*It's alive!*

[video]http://s847.photobucket.com/user/Ghizer/media/MVI_7864_zps804f9946.mp4.html?sort=6&o=0[/video]


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## Nevaeh_Speed (Jul 9, 2004)

Man it sounds great. Just showed my buddy who wants to do a subie motor swap into his bug, now he has a change of heart.


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

Nevaeh_Speed said:


> Man it sounds great. Just showed my buddy who wants to do a subie motor swap into his bug, now he has a change of heart.


Thanks, your buddy might be interested in this build http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4824307-vrt-bug&highlight=VRT+Bug. It's surprising how many subie swaps there are out there (lots on shoptalk). I think the weight distribution might be better with the VR6 and of course it keeps it all Vdub. There are surprisingly few mods with the VR6 after you build the cage, shorten the control arms and axles, drill the front rotors, and modifying the steering rack into tie rods. Axles, rotors and tie rods I had done by a machine shop the rest of the stuff can be done as long as you have the tools and average skill.

Thanks again for your help.


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## CasuallyWreckless (Aug 27, 2007)

Awsomeeeee!!! That brown 4 plug in the thermo can be deleted as well that's for ac


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

CasuallyWreckless said:


> Awsomeeeee!!! That brown 4 plug in the thermo can be deleted as well that's for ac


Great, every piece of wire I don't need is a good thing, less to get in the way when I am working it. 

It's not finished yet and I am already making changes, a few guys have mentioned the intercooler location and so I have rethought/redesigned the location. Pictures to come soon!


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## CasuallyWreckless (Aug 27, 2007)

If you google shaved bay information resource thread there's a lot of good info and links in there:thumbup: should be in the mkIII forum. Awsome project man!


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

*Intercooler Redesign*

A few guys have commented on the intercooler location and they're right. Behind the rad means the rad will tend to heat the intercooler up - not good. The initial plan was to top mount it over the motor but it turned out that there wasn't enough room. So here are the pictures of the redesign.




































This is the fab work to the "hood" to accept the intercooler, you'll see in some of the pics the 7" fans which will be mounted under the intercooler, I am also going to increase the rad fans to three.










This shows how the trunk will look still a pretty good size considering there wasn't any before.


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## vr-vagman (May 15, 2010)

Congrats! Much better position IMHO. Now I recall all rear engined cars usually implement AWIC setup but I'd give a chance to the current setup first. You'll have to log the IAT though to get the real picture of your IC efficiency.
Please don't stop working on that car.


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

*intercooler*



vr-vagman said:


> Congrats! Much better position IMHO. Now I recall all rear engined cars usually implement AWIC setup but I'd give a chance to the current setup first. You'll have to log the IAT though to get the real picture of your IC efficiency.
> Please don't stop working on that car.


Thanks for your comment and encouragement, I figured if it worked for these guys......










Hope you're far away from what's happening in the Ukraine!
Regards


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## vwjunkie747 (May 22, 2013)

So.... is the car done?


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## vr-vagman (May 15, 2010)

Ghizer said:


> ........
> 
> Hope you're far away from what's happening in the Ukraine!
> Regards


We are on the opposite sea coast from Ukraine(Krim) and Russia.


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## El Groso (May 29, 2008)

This build is awesome.
Good call on relocating the IC and placing fans.. for the radiator, will you be scooping air from underneath of the car?

About the color, have you decided yet? I would keep it a classic color, non metallic. Also, the wheels I think would look best with some that be period correct.

Anyway.. it´s a lot of great work!!! :beer::beer::beer:


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

vwjunkie747 said:


> So.... is the car done?


No not quite yet, I've had the project for just under a year and a half and it has been a lot of work. I would probably be finished if I restored the car but I really wouldn't be happy with 50HP! The designing and building custom takes a lot of time. I have to finish the engine enclosures and body wiring, then its bodywork and paint, glass, interior, and final details.
Thanks for your interest.


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

vr-vagman said:


> We are on the opposite sea coast from Ukraine(Krim) and Russia.


Good to hear :thumbup:


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

El Groso said:


> This build is awesome.
> Good call on relocating the IC and placing fans.. for the radiator, will you be scooping air from underneath of the car?
> 
> About the color, have you decided yet? I would keep it a classic color, non metallic. Also, the wheels I think would look best with some that be period correct.
> ...


Thanks. Yeah I'll be mounting an underbody scoop on the "K" frame that will force air into the rad compartment. I have done a lot (I mean a lot) of deliberating about the color, and I am with you on the classic idea but non metallic paints on this car hide the shape of the body whereas metallic make all those curves stand out. I am going with something a little darker than this










The wheels were tough as I had to go 5x100 because of the Jetta driveline (custom drilled front rotors) here is what they look like


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

*Progress October*

Trunk










Trunk with the floor and upright panels removed


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

*Radiator fans*










I figure once I'm up to freeway speed I'll shut the engine off and just run on these:sly:


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

*IC air intake*










there are 2 - 7" fans under the IC to draw air in.


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

*"Back seat" and engine access with the panels removed*










this is what the "back seat" looks like ...just big enough for my Jack Russell except she'd be terrified to ride there. I used the original upholstery to keep appearances as stock as possible. The panels will be upholstered as well.


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## groundupjetta (Feb 1, 2010)

Love it! You deserve a six pack :beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

groundupjetta said:


> Love it! You deserve a six pack :beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:


Thanks I was thirsty! 

You can't believe how much time building the engine enclosure sucks up. Trying to make sure everything is accessible, sound proof, fire proof, etc. etc. etc.

I appreciate the encouragement :thumbup:


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

keep at it man, this thing is a GEM!


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## fleet_maintenance (Jan 5, 2012)

Hey Ghizer, there are only a few threads I actively watch, and this is one of them. Great project!


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

carsluTT said:


> keep at it man, this thing is a GEM!


Coming from you this is a real compliment I went to your site - your work looks outstanding! Thanks for the encouragement.


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

fleet_maintenance said:


> Hey Ghizer, there are only a few threads I actively watch, and this is one of them. Great project!


Thanks much, I find myself going back to the first three pics in this thread....one day.umpkin:


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

I haven't posted in a while as I have been doing body work and I am not a pro.....sand fill sand fill sand fill.....


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## spa (Jan 26, 2003)

Outstanding! Following this build closely, as it is my dream car. Where on the wet coast are you?


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

spa said:


> Outstanding! Following this build closely, as it is my dream car. Where on the wet coast are you?


Thanks, I am in Chilliwack. Started on the electrical today ... the next big phase. Did some reading and looks like I will be modifying the fuel pump install and relocating the filter between the tank and the pump, its currently in the engine bay:banghead:
Oh well better than jamming up the pump!
Cheers:beer:


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## jetta trek (Nov 11, 2007)

I love this.  Great work:thumbup:


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## CasuallyWreckless (Aug 27, 2007)

Can you elaborate a little more on your shifter/throttle cable setup? This is one thing that baffles me on mid engine swaps such as yours.


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

jetta trek said:


> I love this.  Great work:thumbup:


Thanks the encouragement goes a long way!
Cheers:beer:


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

CasuallyWreckless said:


> Can you elaborate a little more on your shifter/throttle cable setup? This is one thing that baffles me on mid engine swaps such as yours.


The assembly is made up of a Toyota MR2 shifter, Porsche Boxter cable pair and a custom bracket that doubles as a transmission brace. Once I had the cables and shifter I did a rough assembly which helped me design the bracket. then I connected the cables to the bracket which showed me how to alter the shifter based on the cable travel required. Hope this helps, let me know if you have any other questions. Cheers










<a href="http://s847.photobucket.com/user/Ghizer/media/May%202014/IMG_7777_zpsae911155.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab37/Ghizer/May%202014/IMG_7777_zpsae911155.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_7777_zpsae911155.jpg"/></a>


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

CasuallyWreckless said:


> Can you elaborate a little more on your shifter/throttle cable setup? This is one thing that baffles me on mid engine swaps such as yours.


Sorry just noticed you were interested in the throttle cable as well. I bought an EMPI dune buggy cable and ran it from the pedal thru the stock tube which I curved upwards with a brake line forming tool. Then I ran it thru the VR6 sheath and connected it to the throttle body. After flaring the tubing I gently crimped the VR6 sheath into the metal tubing. In the pic below the throttle cable is the black tubing to the right of the opening in the tunnel. Hope that helps, let me know if you have questions.
Cheers


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## CasuallyWreckless (Aug 27, 2007)

Fantastic! I've contemplated a similar build with a scirocco but was always curious about those 2 components... Thank you! Can't wait to see this done!


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

CasuallyWreckless said:


> Fantastic! I've contemplated a similar build with a scirocco but was always curious about those 2 components... Thank you! Can't wait to see this done!


A Scirocco would present its own set of challenges, not the least of which would be the frame but one part that has been much more difficult than I anticipated is closing of the engine bay while maintaining access for service and addressing heat and sound insulation. Here is a pic of a beautiful twin turbo car, if I was to do a Scirocco this is what I would try to achieve.


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

*Heat and insulation*

It's been going slow up until a couple of days ago when we got some nice weather, its amazing how that will inspire you to get back at it. I was going to start electrical until I realized a bunch of other stuff needed to be done first...the pictures tell the story


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)




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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)




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## vr-vagman (May 15, 2010)

Oh!
I like that heater /exchanger. I'll have to do something very similar for my car. Please, would you share some more info about this unit? The noise/heat insulation looks very good and clean install too. Nice!
Thanks!


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## Old Windy (Apr 1, 2009)

Loving this, and thanks for the updates. What are you using for insulation? I need to do this to my car but there are a few options out there and was leaning towards Dynamat. 


#


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

*Heater*

Hey Hope all is well in Bulgaria. Here is the info on the heater

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-UNIVERS...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3a9fdf1252

Seems to be pretty well made although the fan has only one speed, the seller said if you add some electrical components you can make it multispeed. I hooked up the fan and it is OK not great just OK. Probably twice as good as any air cooled car though

The photos don't show it but I used the stock vent controls for the defrost and the dash unit is from an Audi 4000 (think they were Audi 80 in Europe) the hose is from the local building supply - sump pump hose. Hope that helps. Cheers :beer:


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

*Heater*

Looks like they have a new unit now with controls

http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-U...3&pid=100005&rk=1&rkt=6&sd=251790299730&rt=nc


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

Old Windy said:


> Loving this, and thanks for the updates. What are you using for insulation? I need to do this to my car but there are a few options out there and was leaning towards Dynamat.
> 
> 
> #


I used two products this one which is quite like Dynamat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-1...805?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ed4d2eda5

I used this on the engine bay it is peel and stick - get it right the first time because it doesn't come off

The stuff in the pictures is call EZ Cool and is available on Ebay or direct here 

http://www.lobucrod.com/ 

This stuff you glue down, I used Elmers Spray Glue nice stuff Hope this helps
Cheers:beer:


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## vr-vagman (May 15, 2010)

Thank you Ghizer!

... in case you need second opinion.... I'd say the middle tunnel looks a bit... crude if you plan to leave it like that. It is too square imho for that car :-( And what are all those switches on top for?
I'm sorry.


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

vr-vagman said:


> Thank you Ghizer!
> 
> ... in case you need second opinion.... I'd say the middle tunnel looks a bit... crude if you plan to leave it like that. It is too square imho for that car :-( And what are all those switches on top for?
> I'm sorry.


No worries, the console is just the base, it will be connected to the shelf to house the heater vent and then upholstered in nagahyde and a carbon fibre type material. It may still be a bit square but definitely less boxy than it looks in these photos. The switches replace all the dash switches....lights, wipers, etc.

Thanks for your comments, they are always welcome.
Cheers:beer:


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## vr-vagman (May 15, 2010)

Thank you Ghizer.
I'd check the button type switches. Imho they look much more elegant/refined than toggle ones and when illuminated, this could help you when driving through the nights or just for faster finding which one is ON. I can imagine a nice carbon finish panel with illuminated buttons  If you like, you could even use different colours or models for different functions.

https://www.e-switch.com/product-catalog/panel-mount#.VM_gtmisVu4


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## AlexiGTIVR6 (Jul 21, 2000)

Awesome progress so far. Can't wait to see this on the road👍


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

vr-vagman said:


> Thank you Ghizer.
> I'd check the button type switches. Imho they look much more elegant/refined than toggle ones and when illuminated, this could help you when driving through the nights or just for faster finding which one is ON. I can imagine a nice carbon finish panel with illuminated buttons  If you like, you could even use different colours or models for different functions.
> 
> https://www.e-switch.com/product-catalog/panel-mount#.VM_gtmisVu4


You are right on the carbon fiber, if you look back a bit you can see the back plate on the gauges. I like the old look of the toggle switches but these are updated with fibre optic style lights.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-White-...223?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4abe997a27

Cheers :beer:


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

AlexiGTIVR6 said:


> Awesome progress so far. Can't wait to see this on the road👍


If I'm not mistaken you are in B.C., I think I saw your name on Dubberz. If so, I am going to try and make Spring Unsprung maybe I'll see you there.
Thanks for the encouragement. Cheers :beer:


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## AlexiGTIVR6 (Jul 21, 2000)

Ghizer said:


> If I'm not mistaken you are in B.C., I think I saw your name on Dubberz. If so, I am going to try and make Spring Unsprung maybe I'll see you there.
> Thanks for the encouragement. Cheers :beer:


Yup in North Delta. Moderator on Dubberz too. Your car is definitely an exciting project.:thumbup: Ive built quite a few VRt's . If you have any questions on that part feel free to ask. Looks like you got everything on track though:beer:


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

*Moving my build*

So the HTML change means none of my photos can be viewed so I guess I will move my build elsewhere. They are some of you who follow this so I will post a location once I decide what to do.....what a waste of time.:screwy:


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## fleet_maintenance (Jan 5, 2012)

Ghizer said:


> So the HTML change means none of my photos can be viewed so I guess I will move my build elsewhere. They are some of you who follow this so I will post a location once I decide what to do.....what a waste of time.:screwy:


Bummer about the pictures, I always enjoy your updates. Please post up the pertinent info when you get swuared away. This is still one of my favorite builds!


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

*Photos*



fleet_maintenance said:


> Bummer about the pictures, I always enjoy your updates. Please post up the pertinent info when you get swuared away. This is still one of my favorite builds!


Here is the link to my photo bucket http://s847.photobucket.com/user/Ghizer/library/?sort=6&page=1


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

super bummer this is an epic build


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

*Body and Paint*



carsluTT said:


> super bummer this is an epic build


Thanks! I've decided with the amount of time I've put into this I will continue posting here with a link to the pictures. Like the rest of this build I have done the body and paint myself. This has taken a long, long, time like anything where you don't have much experience. The good news is there are no runs in the paint the bad news is it is heavily orange peeled. So after a lot of sanding an polishing it doesn't look too bad. Here are the pictures 

http://s847.photobucket.com/user/Gh...aint/IMG_9174_zpsmnrznlrk.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Can't tell from the pictures. Seems to look good to me. I am sure what you did will look good. I presume it's clear coated already? Don't forget that you haven't wet sanded it yet. I like the color choice too. Go look at all the new BMW's they orange peel like crazy from the factory.


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## vr-vagman (May 15, 2010)

Long time no posts. Any updates ?


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## Ghizer (Sep 8, 2013)

*VRT Ghia*



vr-vagman said:


> Long time no posts. Any updates ?


Been sorting out the suspension and other loose ends, and spending time driving it. It is by far the fastest car I've owned and I've had some quick cars. Here's a couple of pics from Dubs in the Barn a VW show this last spring.


http://s847.photobucket.com/user/Ghizer/media/Dubs in the Barn 2_zpsyrkpqyez.jpg.html?sort=6&o=0

http://s847.photobucket.com/user/Ghizer/media/Dubs in the Barn 1_zpsqezdqxxn.jpg.html?sort=6&o=1


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## vr-vagman (May 15, 2010)

Ghizer said:


> Been sorting out the suspension and other loose ends, and spending time driving it. It is by far the fastest car I've owned and I've had some quick cars. Here's a couple of pics from Dubs in the Barn a VW show this last spring.
> 
> 
> http://s847.photobucket.com/user/Ghizer/media/Dubs in the Barn 2_zpsyrkpqyez.jpg.html?sort=6&o=0
> ...


Your car is real GEM!:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
The inerior also looks perfect! I'm just speachless
I'd like to have mine finished like yours but I'm still far away.
If you don't mind:


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## dub nutz (Dec 30, 2010)

^^^More of this please^^^do you have a build thread?


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