# Question about reseting the rear caliper on a mk3 VR6



## The Driver (Dec 13, 2009)

Hello everyone,
So I am going to change the rear break pads for my 98 GTI VR6 very soon. While I browsing here I found this in another thread:
http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty...x.htm
Inside the instruction it says we'll need a "caliper retractor tool" to reset the piston and "DO NOT USE USE A C-CLAMP TO TRY TO RESET THE PISTON! IT WILL NOT WORK! YOU WILL DAMAGE YOUR CALIPER! IF YOU CANNOT TURN THE PISTON THE CALIPER IS SEIZED AND MUST BE REPLACED! DO NOT PRESS ON THE BRAKES YOU WILL DESTROY THE BRAKE CALIPER!"
However, I only have a c-clamp and I've changed break pads on Volvo, Honda and Mazda before with the c-clamp only.








So is this the special fact of our cars? Is that means I cannot reset the rear piston by the c-clamp on my mk3 gti? Honestly it is the first time I ever see the retractor tool















Thanks in advance for any answer. Have a nice day guys!


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## Little Golf Mklll (Nov 27, 2007)

*Re: Question about reseting the rear caliper on a mk3 VR6 (The Driver)*

The rear e-brake is a kind of ratcheting mechanism, there are some caliper retractor tools you can get that fit onto the end of a ratchet but you have to do all the pushing with your arms while you twist at the same time. recommend going with the proper tool http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

*Re: Question about reseting the rear caliper on a mk3 VR6 (The Driver)*

You don't have a Honda, Mazda, or Volvo.
Most cars require you to press and rotate the rear pistons to retract them into the calipers (including Ford and GM).
You can borrow the tool set from an autoparts store that has a free tool loan program, OR buy the tool set from Harbor Freight for about $20 on sale.
Whatever you do, DO NOT BORROW OR BUY THE "CUBE". It's a waste of time and money.


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## Little Golf Mklll (Nov 27, 2007)

*Re: Question about reseting the rear caliper on a mk3 VR6 (germancarnut51)*


_Quote, originally posted by *germancarnut51* »_Whatever you do, DO NOT BORROW OR BUY THE "CUBE". It's a waste of time and money.
 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## The Driver (Dec 13, 2009)

Thanks for all the replys!







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I already borrowed a kit from Autozone and just finished changing them tonight! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
However, after I changed the rear break pads, the "break" warning light became always lit up on the cluster, even when the e-break off (this happen from time to time before the job tho).







after test drive I tried to raise the rear wheels again with e-break off, and spin the wheels they weren't draged.
any idea why? the "berak" warning light never goes off now








Thanks again!


_Modified by The Driver at 3:43 AM 3-4-2010_


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## The Driver (Dec 13, 2009)

oh, forgot to mention that I also opened the break fluid lid when I retract the piston, and I saw the level of the fluid is high, right under the lid. that should be the right amount right?


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

*Re: (The Driver)*

There is a "max" line molded into th plastic fuild tank...you should use a "turkey baster" to suck fluid out till it just touches this line...you were lucky..you're supposed to suck some fluid out B4 you retract calipers...or open bleed screw to let fluid out that way...If you retract all 4 calipers while doin a complete brake job..you will often force fluid outa the tank and all over your engine bay..brake fluid "eats" paint..you end up with much damage to firewall etc...Turkey Baster cheap..you can get em at flea markets or "Big Lots" stores for a buck or so. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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