# Car Randomly Dies and Battery Symbol Flashes While Driving......HELP APPRECIATED



## SD1017 (Aug 12, 2009)

Hey all, I recently picked up a 2004 GLI from someone in the San Diego area, and this car has been meticulously maintained, and has 72500 miles as of today. The engine bay is really clean, and I have records for all the services including the last one @70000miles, and the checklist the last mechanics went over, was perfect nothing wrong or in the yellow or red.

Heres my problem: 
Twice in the past two weeks I have been in 3rd or 4th gear not driving aggressively, relaxed driving and the car will just shut off completely, flashing the battery icon at me. So i stop and start the car back up and there is no problem! :screwy::screwy:
I recently got the battery checked and there was nothing else wrong. I was just wondering if anyone had any other ideas or thoughts on what could be the problem......or how to best direct the mechanic who last fixed it where to look.

The car drives perfectly normal otherwise, not a hiccup, and does not show a CEL or any other kind of light. Any help would be appreciated as I am unsure, I thought it might be the alternator but am not positive.

Anything helps!

Pics of said carro


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## SD1017 (Aug 12, 2009)

really no one can help or offer suggestions?


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## BriceSMASH (Jun 8, 2010)

I've had a similar problem with my GTI as well except my car shuts off on me when I'm in neutral. No battery light comes on and my car starts up right again as if I turned it off myself. Sadly, I have no idea what's wrong either.


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## SD1017 (Aug 12, 2009)

BriceSMASH said:


> I've had a similar problem with my GTI as well except my car shuts off on me when I'm in neutral. No battery light comes on and my car starts up right again as if I turned it off myself. Sadly, I have no idea what's wrong either.


no one can your the second person to say it has happened one time before, and then never again

i dont wanna take it to the stealership and get ass rammed by their costs to look for something that is probably easy to fix...or at least i hope


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## woteg (Apr 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

take it to a parts store and get codes pulled and make them test everything else they can test there - alternator etc...


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## desertdubs_C (Sep 20, 2009)

Its possible you may have a pinched ignition wire causing an intermitten short making the car shut off as if you turned the key. Also check your charging system. Alt, wire from alt to fuse (top of battery), and for any loose grounds. 

I thought my alt was bad on my GTI when my battery died on me a couple times in the same week. Turned out to be the pos+ wire coming from the alt to the battery fuse box had a break causing my headache.
GL


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## RobbieRolex (Sep 5, 2011)

Sounds like a fuel cut by the ECU, Would put money on that it probably only happens on part throttle, you need to get it scanned for errors otherwise it's a very long guessing game.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

Intermitent errors are stored in the ECU and it doesn't necessary triggers a CEL or MIL, but if you scan the computer you will know where those errors happened and you can start looking there.

My car once stopped accelerating and engine speed got stuck at 900 or so RPMs but I got different kind of MILs like CEL, ASR, battery, etc.
It turned out to be the alternator and alternator harness.


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## sabbySC (Dec 29, 2009)

check all your connections on top of the battery are tight (fuse box on top), also check power and ground wires are tight. 

Get the codes read and postback here, we will be able to help with more info.


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## SD1017 (Aug 12, 2009)

desertdubs_C said:


> Its possible you may have a pinched ignition wire causing an intermitten short making the car shut off as if you turned the key. Also check your charging system. Alt, wire from alt to fuse (top of battery), and for any loose grounds.
> 
> I thought my alt was bad on my GTI when my battery died on me a couple times in the same week. Turned out to be the pos+ wire coming from the alt to the battery fuse box had a break causing my headache.
> 
> GL


For sure I will check this out. Thanks a lot





RobbieRolex said:


> Sounds like a fuel cut by the ECU, Would put money on that it probably only happens on part throttle, you need to get it scanned for errors otherwise it's a very long guessing game.


 Yes that's exactly it!!!
Only on partial throttle.
Car is new to me so I will get a scanner this weekend or get it scanned. Thanks a lot that sounds the most like it.




carfreak01 said:


> Intermitent errors are stored in the ECU and it doesn't necessary triggers a CEL or MIL, but if you scan the computer you will know where those errors happened and you can start looking there.
> 
> My car once stopped accelerating and engine speed got stuck at 900 or so RPMs but I got different kind of MILs like CEL, ASR, battery, etc.
> It turned out to be the alternator and alternator harness.


Cool. I thought it was my alternator at first too, so I will get it a scan first, a report back....thanks


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## SD1017 (Aug 12, 2009)

OK so i got my car scanned and the only code it came up with was for the clutch switch.

I figured either this one or the brake light switch was out bc my cruise control would not set.

Could this solve all my problems? and wasnt there a recall on this i can not recall.

Thanks A lot


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

sabbySC said:


> check all your connections on top of the battery are tight (fuse box on top), also check power and ground wires are tight.


This.

Before you start spending money replacing this and that, do this.


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## SD1017 (Aug 12, 2009)

BassNotes said:


> This.
> 
> Before you start spending money replacing this and that, do this.


That's the first thing I did. I would not jump to buying parts and throwing money at it lol. 

I'm going to get the clutch switch and replace it and see if that solves it, although the car has been driving perfect recently


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## cameronmfjay (Apr 19, 2011)

I'm pretty sure it would be your brake light switch. Even if you've had the recall done already for the switch. The cruise control not setting is a dead giveaway. Ask your dealer if you have any open recalls.

I had similar problems and sure enough it was the switch.
Good luck to you!


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## SD1017 (Aug 12, 2009)

cameronmfjay said:


> I'm pretty sure it would be your brake light switch. Even if you've had the recall done already for the switch. The cruise control not setting is a dead giveaway. Ask your dealer if you have any open recalls.
> 
> I had similar problems and sure enough it was the switch.
> Good luck to you!


Yup its the clutch switch not the brake light but they pretty much have the same affect if they go out right??

Yea I called the dealer by me this weekend to see if it was a recall but the service dept was closed and they couldn't check.

So I am calling on Monday to check with them and get this fixed, or order the part if it is not a recall. 

Thanks for the help!

Sent from my car using the alternator and antenna.


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

SD1017 said:


> That's the first thing I did. I would not jump to buying parts and throwing money at it lol.


A lot of guys "check" the connections but don't actually _do _anything to check or fix them. If they don't say how they checked them, there's a good chance that they just eyeballed it and didn't dig any further.

So, make sure you check the connections first. Actually check them.


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## RedPartyCup801 (Jan 25, 2007)

desertdubs_C said:


> Its possible you may have a pinched ignition wire causing an intermitten short making the car shut off as if you turned the key. Also check your charging system. Alt, wire from alt to fuse (top of battery), and for any loose grounds.
> 
> I thought my alt was bad on my GTI when my battery died on me a couple times in the same week. Turned out to be the pos+ wire coming from the alt to the battery fuse box had a break causing my headache.
> GL


This...

Exact same thing was happening to me only wasn't 3rd and 4th gear it was 2nd and 3rd. It was the exact same problem with the wire from the alt to the fuse box. Definitely check into that :thumbup:


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## cameronmfjay (Apr 19, 2011)

SD1017 said:


> Yup its the clutch switch not the brake light but they pretty much have the same affect if they go out right??



Oops i didn't even take into account the clutch switch. When i had this problem it was on my 03 Jetta GLS (2.0L with auto tranz). 

But your right, they wont have the exact same effect but pretty dam close.


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## SD1017 (Aug 12, 2009)

cameronmfjay said:


> Oops i didn't even take into account the clutch switch. When i had this problem it was on my 03 Jetta GLS (2.0L with auto tranz).
> 
> But your right, they wont have the exact same effect but pretty dam close.



:thumbup::thumbup: Gracias

I am calling the dealer at one of my breaks from work today to see if I can get this fixed under recall for free....otherwise ill just buy the part and fix it myself.:laugh:


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## Jayj (Jul 1, 2011)

correct, if the clutch pedal switch is activated your cruise will cut off. If that switch is permanently activated then your cruise won't set since it looks like you have the clutch pedal pressed. The clutch pedal switch isn't covered. Still a good idea to have the brake switch updated if it hasn't been. These will not cause the car to die while driving however. I'd suspect fuel or crank sensor being more likely to cause the car to cut off while driving off idle. Did the car just cut off or did it sputter a little before dying?
you said that the battery light flashed, did it blink constantly or just come on when the engine shut off?


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## SD1017 (Aug 12, 2009)

Jayj said:


> correct, if the clutch pedal switch is activated your cruise will cut off. If that switch is permanently activated then your cruise won't set since it looks like you have the clutch pedal pressed. The clutch pedal switch isn't covered. Still a good idea to have the brake switch updated if it hasn't been. These will not cause the car to die while driving however. I'd suspect fuel or crank sensor being more likely to cause the car to cut off while driving off idle. Did the car just cut off or did it sputter a little before dying?
> you said that the battery light flashed, did it blink constantly or just come on when the engine shut off?


It happened so fast the two times that it did that I did not even notice any sputtering. 

The battery light just came on did not really flash when the engine shut off, and it disappeared when i turned the car back on. (but i can not be sure as to whether the battery light flashed or was constant, this has only happened twice...about 2-3 weeks ago)

I also just did a throttle adaptation on my car over the weekend, and my throttle response and overall feel of the throttle is a lot better. Someone was having the same problem and they did this and have not had a problem since. I am keeping my fingers crossed hoping that this fixed whatever problem I had.

:thumbup::thumbup:for the help


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## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

well keep in mind that the battery light coming on means its an electrical or charge issue... IF the issues comes back I would look at the ignition switch... in any newer car when these go bad a lot of weird hard to explain sheit happens... good luck man:thumbup:


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## SD1017 (Aug 12, 2009)

~Enigma~ said:


> well keep in mind that the battery light coming on means its an electrical or charge issue... IF the issues comes back I would look at the ignition switch... in any newer car when these go bad a lot of weird hard to explain sheit happens... good luck man:thumbup:



i will keep that in mind :thumbup:


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## Jayj (Jul 1, 2011)

if the car dies with key on then the battery light is operating as designed since the alt is no longer charging since it stopped spinning. so you might as well take that out of the equation.


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## cameronmfjay (Apr 19, 2011)

Jayj said:


> These will not cause the car to die while driving however.


Im pretty sure that if the brake and gas pedals are both being pressed for an extended period of time (say 20 seconds or so) it activates this sort of "failsafe" where the ecu will shut everything down. (If brake light switch is indeed faulty then it wouldnt be uncommon for the ecu to be seeing it as on while your driving around town. Therefore it activates the failsafe and shuts everything off). Im not sure if the same applies to the clutch as well. 

I drove around for only god knows hows long with a faulty switch..


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## Jayj (Jul 1, 2011)

cameronmfjay said:


> Im pretty sure that if the brake and gas pedals are both being pressed for an extended period of time (say 20 seconds or so) it activates this sort of "failsafe" where the ecu will shut everything down. (If brake light switch is indeed faulty then it wouldnt be uncommon for the ecu to be seeing it as on while your driving around town. Therefore it activates the failsafe and shuts everything off). Im not sure if the same applies to the clutch as well.
> 
> I drove around for only god knows hows long with a faulty switch..


the fail safe you are referring to will close the throttle, making the pedal input unresponsive, not cause the car to shut off. Apples and oranges. You can rev your engine with the clutch pedal applied so it would be senseless to follow the same rules as the brake light switch. Throttle input and brake input are treated in this manner as a safety measure on drive by wire cars to prevent deaths, brake input will always take priority over throttle.


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## SD1017 (Aug 12, 2009)

Jayj said:


> if the car dies with key on then the battery light is operating as designed since the alt is no longer charging since it stopped spinning. so you might as well take that out of the equation.


can you rephrase this a little better. So you think its my alternator??? or there is no way it is that?

take the alternator out of the equation, if its not spinning?




Jayj said:


> the fail safe you are referring to will close the throttle, making the pedal input unresponsive, not cause the car to shut off. Apples and oranges. You can rev your engine with the clutch pedal applied so it would be senseless to follow the same rules as the brake light switch. Throttle input and brake input are treated in this manner as a safety measure on drive by wire cars to prevent deaths, brake input will always take priority over throttle.


could it close the fuel supply to the engine thus making it cut off the engine from lack of fuel?

bc i still have yet to have this problem again but am keeping a list of everyones suggestions and going over them when i have time away from work


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## Jayj (Jul 1, 2011)

SD1017 said:


> can you rephrase this a little better. So you think its my alternator??? or there is no way it is that?
> 
> take the alternator out of the equation, if its not spinning?
> 
> ...



If the throttle is commanded closed by either your foot (driver input) or the ecm closes it due to brake switch input, the fuel will go back to idle values since throttle input and injector pulse mimic eachother *for the most part. If fuel supply/volume is low then the vehicle could potentially shut off as it returns to idle. 

You may not know the answer to both of these concerns until they become more easily duplicative.


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## Jayj (Jul 1, 2011)

sorry, posting on my touchpad and it's next to impossible to highlight my passages to bold them since I forgot to do it lol. HP won this round.


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## SD1017 (Aug 12, 2009)

Jayj said:


> If the throttle is commanded closed by either your foot (driver input) or the ecm closes it due to brake switch input, the fuel will go back to idle values since throttle input and injector pulse mimic eachother *for the most part. If fuel supply/volume is low then the vehicle could potentially shut off as it returns to idle.
> 
> You may not know the answer to both of these concerns until they become more easily duplicative.


alright thats a lot clearer. thank you

So i will just wait to see if this problem happens again and try and listen and feel when it happens.




Jayj said:


> sorry, posting on my touchpad and it's next to impossible to highlight my passages to bold them since I forgot to do it lol. HP won this round.


haha its all gravy


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## SD1017 (Aug 12, 2009)

Alright so it happened again. I was sitting an In N Out drive thru waiting for my food.

I had the car in neutral and just had the foot on the brake. I look down at my cluster and the battery light is on. My radio is still working and the car is off. I did not feel it shut off at all and the only reason i knew was because of the light. 

Then the car started back up and drove perfect.

Also, when i was on the freeway in 6th going like 80 i did not get any warning lights but it felt like the car lost power. It was unresponsive so i coasted waited a minute and put it into 5th gear with no problem and kept going. Could this be related at all?

I am also going to go over all my connections really well, and the alternator wires, etc and maybe see about getting my ignition switch replaced as someone suggested earlier.

Any other suggestions?


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

Intermittent ignition switch failures are pretty common in Mk4s, and it's a plausible cause of the symptoms you describe.


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## SD1017 (Aug 12, 2009)

BassNotes said:


> Intermittent ignition switch failures are pretty common in Mk4s, and it's a plausible cause of the symptoms you describe.


is there a way to check my ignition or just have to replace it?

edit: would the ignition switch show a code when its scanned?


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## SD1017 (Aug 12, 2009)

alright. So I have found one spot on the freeway that this happens nearly every time. 

I am in 6th gear going about 80mph on a slight incline and then it levels out over a short bridge and goes to a slight decline. The degree on the hill is like nothing. For anyone who lives in san diego its 5 north right after people merge onto the 8 East 

Nearly every time when I start to head down the decline I lose all throttle.:screwy: The car does not put gas into the engine and i will coast for 2-10 seconds. I then take it out of gear and put it into fifth and it pops in fine and engages the throttle again:screwy: 

Id like to hear if this could pinpoint me in one direction with a car or still just vague sensors, battery, alternator, or whatever ideas I have heard 

I am getting the car scanned after work again today, and will possibly change my ignition switch if I have to. 

Thanks In Advance:thumbup:


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

A scan will not specifically tell you if the ignition switch is bad. But the ignition must be turned on for the ECU to communicate, so if the switch is faulty you might have trouble scanning. But since your problem is intermittent, you might have a really hard time duplicating it.


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## SD1017 (Aug 12, 2009)

BassNotes said:


> A scan will not specifically tell you if the ignition switch is bad. But the ignition must be turned on for the ECU to communicate, so if the switch is faulty you might have trouble scanning. But since your problem is intermittent, you might have a really hard time duplicating it.


 Thats perfect I was wondering if a scan would show a faulty ignition switch as it did not show up when i got my car scanned at first. 

well i guess then i am going to buy an ignition switch either way and just replace it. 

hopefully that is all! 

Thanks:thumbup::thumbup:


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## SD1017 (Aug 12, 2009)

Well I am almost positive now that it is a bad alternator.

Before I left for my trip I was heading to get gas and while I was pulling into the gas station the car died and it said alternator workshop on my cluster.:screwy:

I recently drove a trip 500 miles to nor cal and back without any other hiccup

anyone else had this problem or this readout regarding the alternator, was it just a straight replace for the alternator?:screwy:

Thanks


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

Check the wiring and connections before you spring a few hundred for an alternator.


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## SD1017 (Aug 12, 2009)

BassNotes said:


> Check the wiring and connections before you spring a few hundred for an alternator.



will do, im actually getting my timing belt and water pump done in the next two weeks so I will have a good look at all the connections then.

Thanks for your continued help:thumbup:


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## That Yellow Car (Aug 20, 2003)

*car randomly dies, no fault lights after engine is off, just battery light.*

2003 GTI 20th with 114,444 miles. Maybe every 2 weeks the car would suddenly lose power while driving and all electrical stays on (ac/radio/power to windows). Giving gas does nothing. Watching revs decrease, have to pull over. Only light that stays on is battery light after engine is on. After a few minutes of waiting, crank, and drives off fine.
Would be on highway at 60mph, 5th gear. Foot on gas feels like tank just emptied. No bucking.

Within the past 3 months have replaced:

Coolant sensor, MAF, Fuse tray & new fuse to alternator (had been burnt and burnt tray from bad alternator), alternator, alternator cable, fuel pump (rear), gasket seals & tensioner, spark plugs. All recall campaigns done (brake light, sunroof, coils).

I don't know if the problem is electrical, despite the battery light. Removed battery and checked ground wires. All fuses good, all fuse wires good. Battery voltage good, alternator voltage good.

The car at idle randomly sounds like it is sputtering, only noticed when we are troubleshooting standing at the engine bay with hood up. Some morning starts rev high, then balance out. The car is REVO flashed since 2003. 

Read that people have targeted Crank Sensor, Ignition switch, voltage regulator, EGM, fuel filter. I bought a crank sensor convinced that this was the badguy, but returned it cuz my vw guy voices that we should put a fuel gauge and sees if I am losing fuel/cut off when the car dies.


It's just dangerous to have to pull over on the highway when this happens. Any ideas guys?


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## SD1017 (Aug 12, 2009)

I have narrowed it down to the fuel pump. Bc nothing changes but loss of power. And the more you try and give it gas the longer it takes for it to prime gas to the engine. And also it only happens when the tank is less than a 1/4


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## Minho78 (Aug 23, 2010)

SD1017 said:


> I have narrowed it down to the fuel pump. Bc nothing changes but loss of power. And the more you try and give it gas the longer it takes for it to prime gas to the engine. And also it only happens when the tank is less than a 1/4


The crank sensor might be acting up on you. That is one of the parts that can cause your problem. The alternator light comes on because the car is not charging anymore. The Jetta that I have used to do the same and no codes. I replaced it and has been problem free for the last 20K. Good luck.


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## xxsur3shotxx (Sep 24, 2009)

Minho78 said:


> The crank sensor might be acting up on you. That is one of the parts that can cause your problem. The alternator light comes on because the car is not charging anymore. The Jetta that I have used to do the same and no codes. I replaced it and has been problem free for the last 20K. Good luck.


:thumbup: this.


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## pgk2004 (Nov 4, 2005)

when i had this problem it turned out to be the belt slipping on the alternator 

just my .02


:beer:


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## SD1017 (Aug 12, 2009)

Minho78 said:


> The crank sensor might be acting up on you. That is one of the parts that can cause your problem. The alternator light comes on because the car is not charging anymore. The Jetta that I have used to do the same and no codes. I replaced it and has been problem free for the last 20K. Good luck.


I will check that before I jump into getting a fuel pump. Thanks but I'm pretty positive it's the pump





pgk2004 said:


> when i had this problem it turned out to be the belt slipping on the alternator
> 
> just my .02
> 
> ...


I am currently doing my timing belt, water pump, thermostat etc service right now so we shall see. The belts I have taken off to replace have looked good though.


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## turbo2.24.1990 (Jun 2, 2008)

check all the terminals associated with the alternator, there's even one under the dash that somehow got loose on my car-and i finally found it after i replaced the alternator-however i did get to upgrade to the 120amp while i was at it.


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## That Yellow Car (Aug 20, 2003)

*SD1017/fatsnapper!*

So, regarding the crank sensor: some posts suggest testing by unplugging ECU connector and check resistance on pins 67 & 68. Readings should be between 500-700ohms.

I'm having the same problem you are as far as the car dying in almost the same spot on the highway randomly. Car dies on highway bend after I get out of work at almost same spot before a NAPA auto exit! HA.

Car feels like as soon as I take my foot off the gas, the tach drops more dramatically than usual.

I'm going to wait to fill my tank and run it under 1/4 tank to see if it is still a fuel issue.

My guy installed a refurbished in tank fuel pump because my old one had a hairline crack in the nipple that bled gas all underneath the car and puddled around the pump.

We have yet to place a fuel gauge to see what happens when the car dies.

Lemme know what you come up with. Between 2 vw/audi techs and myself, we are puzzled.


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## SD1017 (Aug 12, 2009)

That Yellow Car said:


> So, regarding the crank sensor: some posts suggest testing by unplugging ECU connector and check resistance on pins 67 & 68. Readings should be between 500-700ohms.
> 
> I'm having the same problem you are as far as the car dying in almost the same spot on the highway randomly. Car dies on highway bend after I get out of work at almost same spot before a NAPA auto exit! HA.
> 
> ...




Ok I will try and figure a way to get that checked and have a tech I know also look at it. You are the first person to tell me that you have a new fuel pump and this issue still continues....so it makes me a little more worried. Literally same two spots on the way too and from work. Just depending on how much gas there is in the car.


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## SD1017 (Aug 12, 2009)

Alright a little update. I thought maybe I was in the clear and it was gone after i got my water pump, timing belt replaced. Turns out issue is still there. The alternator pulleys and belts are fine and not slipping off like someone previously stated.:thumbup:

I have also had the battery and the alternator tested and they both passed and were in tip top shape.:thumbup:

I have to get my thermostat still put in as when I finished the timing belt service it was dark and I was tired. So when i go to my mechanic house I will see if I can get the crank sensor resistance measured and get back to you. If not I think I am just going to jump on buying a new fuel pump as I can not figure out any other reason to what it can be. :thumbup::thumbup:


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## dubbin_dan (Jul 2, 2011)

Any update on this? I'm having the same problem but mine happens as I roll to a stop in low gear on the brakes. Car is a 04 gti 1.8t with 89000. Haven't had time to scan the car but I've been feeling a misfire every now and then for the last week or two dont know if that has anything to do with it.


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## SD1017 (Aug 12, 2009)

dubbin_dan said:


> Any update on this? I'm having the same problem but mine happens as I roll to a stop in low gear on the brakes. Car is a 04 gti 1.8t with 89000. Haven't had time to scan the car but I've been feeling a misfire every now and then for the last week or two dont know if that has anything to do with it.


Not yet. I am getting my 80k service done and seeing how it works from there. it literally happens when i go below 1/4 tank or anything below 65 miles left before empty. So I have just been keeping my gas above that level  and do not have the problem

Once I get this service settled and one or two more things done for my car I am going to research the crank sensor and one or two other things suggested in this forum.

your issue sounds a little different than mine as mine is only at two spots on the freeway at less than 1/4 tank but GL:thumbup:


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## Dubbington (Oct 26, 2005)

I'll be watching this thread. 

My 2003 2.0 auto has done the freeway loss of power thing. Mine goes from 3500rpm to 0 then flings back to 4k rpms about 2 seconds later and feels like it dropped into 3rd. 

I changed the tranny fluid and filter, plugs and fuel filter. My fuel filter relay clicks on when I turn the key so I assume its working. Battery has full charge so if the alternator was bad the battery would be bad....but I will test he alternator soon. 

My CEL light is on and a friend OBDII scanned it month ago...p0420, could be 02 sensors or cat. 

I drove about 100 freeway miles today with no issue, its weird. The fuel filter may have been the fix.


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## SD1017 (Aug 12, 2009)

Dubbington said:


> I'll be watching this thread.
> 
> My 2003 2.0 auto has done the freeway loss of power thing. Mine goes from 3500rpm to 0 then flings back to 4k rpms about 2 seconds later and feels like it dropped into 3rd.
> 
> ...


 I would also try to notice you fuel level when it does happen. 

I am picking up the car today from getting a transmission flush and change, brake fluid flush and change, and one of my fans replaced (P2181 code) 

When I pick up the car I am going to get a quote for fuel pump replacement. I am first going to replace the crank position sensor just to see if mine is faulty. I have talked to some other people and this seems like the best route. 

Cheers


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## vwaxdaus (Apr 4, 2005)

any luck?


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## SD1017 (Aug 12, 2009)

Just saving up some money to take it into the shop to get it fixed. 

Almost 100% it is the fuel pump. I am relpacing the crank position sensor as soon as it comes in the mail and if the problem still persists its getting the fuel pump, filter and relay replaced as well as my faulty thermostat:banghead:

My issue only happen below 1/4 tank so I am more into the saving mode right now trying to get money together to fix this for good then my car is brand new 

i will update once i get the CPS.


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## JuanGLS (May 24, 2011)

Update? I've had the same issue for a while.


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## vwaxdaus (Apr 4, 2005)

Just fixed mine. It was fuel pump. Ecs tuning $133. Literally 10 mins of labor. Soooooo easy. Hearing that kitten purrrrr again..... Priceless!!!!


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## BMP #1736 (Dec 14, 2011)

i know there a bunch of different threads and endless hours of google searches (i know because ive done it)

im going to save most of you the headache and tell you its the fuel pump.

dont beat around the bush like i did and buy a relay, crank sensor, cam sensor, ignition whozits and whatzits, beer, beer, spark plugs...

beer..

wait.. what was i talking about?


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## SleepRstatus (Feb 12, 2012)

I got the same problem, stalling when coasting to stops. I did a TBA on vagcom but i still stall.

I'mma head to the fuel pump since since everyone is sayin that.

Funny how everyone says CKP is bad. If your ckp was bad, you wouldn't even be able to start your car.


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## SD1017 (Aug 12, 2009)

BMP #1736 said:


> i know there a bunch of different threads and endless hours of google searches (i know because ive done it)
> 
> im going to save most of you the headache and tell you its the fuel pump.
> 
> ...


Yea I have done the same thing you have done. Beat around the bush left and right hoping it would work out and be fixed but never has. I am getting this settled within the next few weeks, i am just dealing with the thermostat this weekend:banghead:




SleepRstatus said:


> I got the same problem, stalling when coasting to stops. I did a TBA on vagcom but i still stall.
> 
> I'mma head to the fuel pump since since everyone is sayin that.
> 
> Funny how everyone says CKP is bad. If your ckp was bad, you wouldn't even be able to start your car.


Wow I wish i knew that. That would have saved me some money, time, etc. Thanks For putting this in the post, I send people here all the time and its nice that there finally is more than one person who can say it for sure is the fuel pump.:thumbup:


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

CKP?


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## BMP #1736 (Dec 14, 2011)

CKP
Crankshaft Position Sensor

Symptoms
Wont start when engine is hot.
Wont start at all. (Just keeps cranking and cranking)
Very high idle.


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

BMP #1736 said:


> CKP
> Crankshaft Position Sensor
> 
> Symptoms
> ...


It's an inductive sensor and can fail intermittently, too, even without a short or break in continuity that would trigger an error code.


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## TXWhiteG60 (May 28, 2001)

*I too have the "lost of all power" issue, but cannot see.....*

Folks, its been a long time since I was last on any forum asking for help, but I am stumped here.

I am experiencing the same sort of issue mentioned in this thread, but cannot see how a total loss of electrical power has anything to do with the Crank Shaft Sensor, or the Fuel pump.

How would that cause a total electrical power loss? My 2003 GTi 1.8T also losses electrical power as does some of the others following this thread. My loss of electrical power comes at any given speed, fuel tank full or at 1/4, A/C on or off. When this happens while driving I am lucky to be able to pull over and out of the way. There is absolutely no electrical functionality what-so-ever, no clock, odometer, lights, ignition will not crank over, hazard lights will not work, etc. I used to be able to turn the light switch knob on/off and that would somehow get things to work, and can drive off, but now it has gotten worse. Today it happened and while someone was helping me push my car out of traffic and into a gas station the damn thing came alive as soon as I engaged the emergency brake?

The fella that had my car before did a bone headed thing and took out portions of a car alarm, and I have since then taken out the alarm control module, and all its wiring. I mended whatever cuts he made into the electrical wiring, and cannot see any other splices or taps he may have used.
What else could cause a complete electrical shut-down in our cars?

I will be looking at the wiring one more time today (good thing in North Texas its only going to hit 104 degrees, and I have no shade).

Thanks for allowing me to vent,

Adrian (AKA TXWhateG60)


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## BassNotes (Mar 16, 2005)

TXWhiteG60, you're suffering the same thing as the OP, _plus _a total loss of electrical power? Do the electrics die every time the engine does, or does the engine sometimes go out and the electrical stuff stay on?


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## SD1017 (Aug 12, 2009)

OK, Everything is perfect right now! I have fixed the issue and tested it multiple times and I can not bring back any of the symptoms. (Knock on wood)

As previously stated I had replaced everything maintenance wise (timing belt shiz, thermostat, cooling fans, rotors, blah blah blah) on my car and was waiting to for some extra money and extra time to get this done, because it only would happened below 1/4 tank.

I replaced the fuel pump and the fuel filter. For some reason some fuel pumps these years were faulty and either the electrical or the pump itself would go out. The fuel pump is expensive if you get OEM quality but it is a nice feeling to know for sure its working and will not fail if I am below 1/4 tank.

I hope this helps out people, I know I was driven almost insane with no CEL and this random shut off when stopped or loss of power when on the freeway.

Now it is time for more enjoyable maintenance and mods starting with a suspension refresh and coils.:laugh:

Thank you to anyone who took time to read my posts and offer advice. Especially Bassnotes20V and JayJ, and thanks TXwhiteg60 for letting everyone else know the problem, before I knew for sure.:beer::beer::beer::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Hope this helps out anyone who was in my position!
Here are some more up to date pictures of the car too.:laugh:


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## drsaminsameed (Aug 1, 2021)

Jayj said:


> correct, if the clutch pedal switch is activated your cruise will cut off. If that switch is permanently activated then your cruise won't set since it looks like you have the clutch pedal pressed. The clutch pedal switch isn't covered. Still a good idea to have the brake switch updated if it hasn't been. These will not cause the car to die while driving however. I'd suspect fuel or crank sensor being more likely to cause the car to cut off while driving off idle. Did the car just cut off or did it sputter a little before dying?
> you said that the battery light flashed, did it blink constantly or just come on when the engine shut off?


Dear sir , I drive a VW PASSAT 2010 model in india. I have similar issue. when i try to start my car, engine sputters, doesnt start ignition, if i start again it works, but keeps turning off atleast 3 times while iam driving with the battery symbol coming on. once the car has covered like 10 -12 kms, no issues. nothing shows up on scanning, no body is able to diagnose it. please help . one of the technicians told me to drive with the stop-start switch off, but still no change.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

drsaminsameed said:


> Dear sir , I drive a VW PASSAT 2010 model in india. I have similar issue. when i try to start my car, engine sputters, doesnt start ignition, if i start again it works, but keeps turning off atleast 3 times while iam driving with the battery symbol coming on. once the car has covered like 10 -12 kms, no issues. nothing shows up on scanning, no body is able to diagnose it. please help . one of the technicians told me to drive with the stop-start switch off, but still no change.


Wrong forum

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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