# Tools/parts required for rear brake pad replacement on MKIV Jetta? (faq/diy link broken)



## dphoenix (Jan 31, 2008)

I've got a '02 Jetta 1.8T Wagon with 137,000 miles. Just got back from having two recalls done (coil pack replacement and sunroof drain cleaning/modification). I'm up for inspection this month, but refused to let the dealer do it (I figured they'd be real sticklers about small problems, then threaten with a Rejection sticker if I didn't have the requisite repairs done then and there by them at crazy rates, etc.)... anyway, they still gave me a little sheet with their "recommendations" detailing the various things that I would need for them to award me with a "passing" inspection sticker. They said I needed two rear tires, the parking brake cables adjusted ("too loose," apparently), and rear brake pads.

The pads were all replaced (front and rear) at 101,000 miles in July '08, so I was floored to learn that just the rears were significantly worn and would need replacement. I couldn't (and still can't) understand why VW would include brake pad level sensors only on the front, when the rear pads wear much faster :sly:. Whatever, now that I've researched the issue, I see that this is common. So, I want to go ahead and replace them before I take a trip two the beach in a couple of weeks... figure I might as well learn how to do this job if it is going to be something I need to do every 30 or 40k miles (I've replaced front pads on my old Crown Vic, so I can't imagine this car would be too much more difficult). Right now, though, the link to the thread regarding rear brakes on MKIV Jettas/Golfs on the FAQ/DIY page is broken ("No Thread Specified" error) so I'm inquiring here about what parts and tools are required to just replace the rear pads:

1. This is just a commuter car, so would generic pads from AutoZone be OK?
2. I read something about one-time-use "carrier bolts"... will brake pad replacement require me to replace these as well?
3. Any special tools I need? I have most normal tools one would use, but don't have any triple-square bits, nor a specialized caliper compressor... where would be a good place to get these tools (online or brick and mortar)?
4. Anyone have a link to a step-by-step guide for this job? I haven't gotten a Bentley manual yet...

Also, does anyone have any thoughts regarding the loose e-brake cables? Ever since I bought the car, I've noticed that the e-brake seems to have to be pulled up really high before it is tight... would tightening up these cables be too terribly difficult for a somewhat novice shadetree mechanic like me to undertake?


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## BiH (Nov 27, 2000)

brake pad job is very simple to do. take the wheel of, there is two bolts that hold the caliper. unbolt and remove the caliper. make sure caliper is not hanging on the line and stretching it. you will need the tool for rear calipers, you can buy one or rent it at local autostore like autozone or pepboys. germanautoparts, ECS, parts4vws, MJM and thos sites will have the tool if you want to purchase it. Im not sure how good are the ones that you rent out. 
generic pads will be ok if you pressed on time or want cheaper. hawk's are ver nice pads, ceramic will be the dustless ones. im not sure about carrier bolts, you dont have to remove carrier if you only are doing rear pads. do mk4's even have carrier on rear? 
compress the piston, install new pads and reinstall the caliper thats all there it is to it!


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## stratocaster (Jul 13, 2004)

He left out a VERY important detail about the rear caliper pistons. You need a special tool for those because they have to be rotated clockwise as they're being pushed back into the caliper. If you try to force them straight back in without rotating, you're gonna be replacing two calipers in no time. Autozone/checker/etc pads can work just fine, but try and get ceramic like BiH said. The cheap metallic pads tend to spew loads of brake dust and are more likely to start squealing over time.

As for the carrier bolts (and yes, they have carrier bolts.... all calipers do....), you don't need to replace them unless they're rusted or damaged to the point where they can't be cleaned up and re-used. Just make sure to lube them up with some grease before you put them back in. Make sure they move with ease, and that there isn't any dirt/gunk under the boot. That kind of stuff is what will eventually cause the caliper to seize. 

Also FYI, the rear pads don't always necessarily wear out before the front pads. There are several things that can cause the rears to wear faster, such as running cheap pads on back and higher end pads on front, driving with a mis-adjusted park brake (causing excess drag), having one or more seized up calipers or simply braking too hard too often. Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying that one of the previously mentioned items is the cause of your problem. It is common to see the rears wear out before the fronts on cars with ABS brakes, but it doesn't happen with all of them. I guess what I'm trying to say is, look for any abnormalities that could cause this to happen before you assume its a natural thing.

Park brake cables are usually fairly simply to adjust. The adjustment for a MK4 cable is inside the center console at the very back (the area closest to the back seat). You need to take out your armrest and/or change tray (depending on what year your car is). You should be able to get to the adjusting nut once you do that. If not, it may be easier just to remove the whole center console. Once you have access to the adjusting nut, all you have to do is turn the nut one way or the other to tighten or loosen it. Let us know if you run into any problems.


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

VW's of later MY's seem to have higher rear brake bias, so rear pads wear faster than fronts..you can see from amount of brake dust on wheels..(for my Passat and Rabbit)..anyway...some DIY tips..you need thin open end 15mm wrench to hold lock nut while you use 13mm socket to remove caliper lock bolts...I ground down an ol wrench to fit in there....If you can wait a few daze..I'd order good quality pads from website like Autohaus AZ..they ship free for $50 orders...and if you add cabin filter to rear pads..or an oil fiter or two..you'll get to $50...They carry good PBR Delux pads etc...Other tips for rear brakes..don't forget to remove, clean and relube sliding pins..folks often forget that on rears since you don't have to pull the slide pins to change pads like you do in front...use "synthetic caliper grease"...this is verrrrrrrry important..VW calipers are "floating" design..and these pins need to be clean and lubed properly for the caliper to "float" if it hangs up you get brake drag...wears pads fast, kills MPG, and most importantly generates excessive heat that will cook grease outa your wheel bearings and then you'll be facing an expensive repair..so lube those pins!...Also, either replace lock bolts with new..or clean threads and apply some "loctite blue" thread locker on em!


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## dphoenix (Jan 31, 2008)

Thanks for everyone's replies! I'm glad it's not too difficult a job (just wanted to double check, 'cause with VW, you never know  ). I suppose I'll just rent the caliper compressor tool, no need to buy one. I inspected the pads this morning, and yeah, they're _really_ low, so I think I'll just pick up some pads at AutoZone along with the requisite tool rental and some "synthetic caliper grease" as recommended by spitpilot, and get on this job ASAP. They haven't worn to the point that the screw is grinding against the rotor, so I think I caught this just in time.

I'm pretty sure this situation is an unavoidable function of the car, considering all 4 corners of brake pads were replaced just before I bought it in '08... I can't imagine that the Ford dealer I bought it from used different/higher quality pads in the front. Anyway, the vast majority of driving I do is highway, I'm not really heavy on the brakes, and considering the e-brake lines are loosely hanging underneath I don't think they're grabbing, so I guess the bias to the rears is pretty severe on this car, but I'll check for the other things mentioned before I assume all is well. If it does indeed end up being that there isn't anything wrong causing excess rear wear other than the natural bias of the braking system, I wouldn't suppose there's a way to change/modify this to at least lessen the rear bias a bit?

Also, thanks for the info regarding the e-brake adjustment! Seems relatively straightforward.


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