# mk6 c-notch



## juldupp (Feb 12, 2011)

I heard with bagyards classic in rear i wont need to notch, is there any other brands that would do the same trick because ort dont have any bagyards classic in stock. thanks !


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## Squirrel Nuts (Aug 25, 2010)

You don't need to notch the rears on MK6's. Maybe you mean removing the rear nipple? The only notching should be done on the front right side where the axle would hit your frame if you air out.


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## juldupp (Feb 12, 2011)

i heard id need to notch when i put airlift in rear..


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## bryangb (Jun 16, 2010)

juldupp said:


> i heard id need to notch when i put airlift in rear..


 You have to do a little cutting to access the fitting on airlift rears. 

No cutting needs to take place for the bag yards :beer:


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## Squirrel Nuts (Aug 25, 2010)

So you're talking for the airline? Run RE-5's or SS-5's with the Dcups.


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## luke wl. (Feb 16, 2010)

Squirrel Nuts said:


> So you're talking for the airline? Run RE-5's or SS-5's with the Dcups.


 This.


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## juldupp (Feb 12, 2011)

Squirrel Nuts said:


> So you're talking for the airline? Run RE-5's or SS-5's with the Dcups.


 Im lost lol u talking about the airline type?


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## juldupp (Feb 12, 2011)

A guy from ort suggested me to go with dcups and slam series or AirHouse 2's, whas the best option? And is it safer to go with bagyards classic and no notch problem?


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## cstjetta (Jan 28, 2004)

When you refere to it as a notch most will think its for the front. in the rears you have to either cup the nipple ( which refers to the where the spring on the stock set up will be centered, and this will help you get lower in the rear. many have done this.) as well with some set ups you will need to cut for the brakets/ or hoses. IIRC so you can get everything seated properly. 

i dont have air but i do frequent the threads as much as i can. if im incorrect with my information please point it out. :thumbup:


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## juldupp (Feb 12, 2011)

So what i heard must be that i wont need to cut nipple with bagyard classics?


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## luke wl. (Feb 16, 2010)

You don't have to cut for the bag yards or the dcup/slam series or air house 2's. But you will get a little lower with the bag yards than the dcup setup IF you don't trim the nipple (you do not have to cut it completely off). Does that make sense?


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## juldupp (Feb 12, 2011)

luke wl. said:


> You don't have to cut for the bag yards or the dcup/slam series or air house 2's. But you will get a little lower with the bag yards than the dcup setup IF you don't trim the nipple (you do not have to cut it completely off). Does that make sense?


 I GOTCHA, whats the lowest height with dcups/slam series or air house 2's, ne1 has pictures ?


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## luke wl. (Feb 16, 2010)

You can look at my build thread in my sig. I did trim the nipples and modified the cups but if you went with the new shorty dcup top it would be about the same trimming the nipple only gave me another 1/2".


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## white pepper (Aug 20, 2001)

misha cuts the whole nipple off and doesnt use the top bracket from dcups for max lows. 





























luke wl. said:


> You don't have to cut for the bag yards or the dcup/slam series or air house 2's. But you will get a little lower with the bag yards than the dcup setup IF you don't trim the nipple (you do not have to cut it completely off). Does that make sense?


 nipple do have to be cut on d cups. 



luke wl. said:


> You can look at my build thread in my sig. I did trim the nipples and modified the cups but if you went with the new shorty dcup top it would be about the same trimming the nipple only gave me another 1/2".


 those are only for mk6 jettas.


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## white pepper (Aug 20, 2001)




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## juldupp (Feb 12, 2011)

I think ill just go with bagyards


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## luke wl. (Feb 16, 2010)

Nipples do NOT have to be cut on dcups. I was running mine not trimmed at first. And the new shorty dcup uppers are 'for' the mk6 jetta but is essentially the same as my cut down dcup I am currently running (top not bottom).


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## juldupp (Feb 12, 2011)

So jetta's shorty dcups will fit ?


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## bryangb (Jun 16, 2010)

Cut everything. More low.


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## juldupp (Feb 12, 2011)

bryangb said:


> Cut everything. More low.


 Lol i know, but i dont need to cut anything with bagyards  if i sell te car and remove my kit and everything its better to keep my nipples.


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## white pepper (Aug 20, 2001)

juldupp said:


> So jetta's shorty dcups will fit ?


 no. they dont fit in the control arm properly hence as to why on the bag riders site doesnt list mk5/6 golf as cars that they are compatible with. 

http://bagriders.com/modlab/products/SHORTY-D-CUP-BRACKET-KIT.html


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## juldupp (Feb 12, 2011)

Thanks for the help everyone!


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## juldupp (Feb 12, 2011)

Is it that much trouble to trim the nipple and notch for air lines because bagyards are backorder on both bagriders and openroadtuning..
If its not that complicated, wich one would you choose between airhouse 2's / airlift slam series / slam ss??
I need a response fast im ready to order


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## luke wl. (Feb 16, 2010)

Go with the ss-5 or re-5 (what I went with) and dorbitz d cups. You don't have to cut anything at all at first unless you want to go lower.


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## juldupp (Feb 12, 2011)

luke wl. said:


> Go with the ss-5 or re-5 (what I went with) and dorbitz d cups. You don't have to cut anything at all at first unless you want to go lower.


You went with ss-5 or re-5, and can you send me a picture of the lowest you can get without trimming your nipple?


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## luke wl. (Feb 16, 2010)

I trimmed immediately and modified my cups(well bluewater did for me) so no sorry


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## bryangb (Jun 16, 2010)

You still have to trim the nipple slightly for the top d-cup or it doesn't sit against the frame properly. It will be "teetering" on the nipple. I would not do that. 

My friend wanted to run the top cup on his ss5's and we still trimmed about half the nipple off. :beer:

Go with the SS5's. They are the updated version of the re5's :beer::beer:


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## white pepper (Aug 20, 2001)

bryangb said:


> You still have to trim the nipple slightly for the top d-cup or it doesn't sit against the frame properly. It will be "teetering" on the nipple. I would not do that.


exactly. not sure why people who pay shops to install bags think they know their ****.


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## juldupp (Feb 12, 2011)

white pepper said:


> exactly. not sure why people who pay shops to install bags think they know their ****.


Ok thanks ill go with ss-5 and dcups, but if i put back my stock suspension and sell the car will it fit properly with the nipple trimmed?
And should i still go with airlift in front or with all 4 bags ss-5?


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## prospal (Mar 8, 2011)

bryangb said:


> You still have to trim the nipple slightly for the top d-cup or it doesn't sit against the frame properly. It will be "teetering" on the nipple. I would not do that.
> 
> My friend wanted to run the top cup on his ss5's and we still trimmed about half the nipple off. :beer:
> 
> Go with the SS5's. They are the updated version of the re5's :beer::beer:





white pepper said:


> exactly. not sure why people who pay shops to install bags think they know their ****.


I did not have my nipple trimmed during install, and they run fine? no noise or teetering... the only thing is they 'pop' into place when i air up after being aired all the way out.

my only dilemma with this way is - if i run wide enough wheels, there's the potential that the wheels hold my car up at the fender, and going to 0 psi may unseat the bag from the nipple and when I go to air up, it the d-cup may not pop in. however, i feel like bolting the bag into the frame, when you go on a lift, that bag is now going to be stretched. can't decide which route to go here, especially since - if i feel like shelling out the cash, to go with bagyard rears, so the nipple will need to stay intact.


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## juldupp (Feb 12, 2011)

prospal said:


> I did not have my nipple trimmed during install, and they run fine? no noise or teetering... the only thing is they 'pop' into place when i air up after being aired all the way out.
> 
> my only dilemma with this way is - if i run wide enough wheels, there's the potential that the wheels hold my car up at the fender, and going to 0 psi may unseat the bag from the nipple and when I go to air up, it the d-cup may not pop in. however, i feel like bolting the bag into the frame, when you go on a lift, that bag is now going to be stretched. can't decide which route to go here, especially since - if i feel like shelling out the cash, to go with bagyard rears, so the nipple will need to stay intact.


Ok ill trim it at first install lol, The last question is should i go with 4 ss-5 or just in the back and airlift in front, airlift looks good with the lifetime warranty, front are more likely to break than back, right?


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## bryangb (Jun 16, 2010)

You can't run ss5's in the front. Slam xlt's in the front and ss5 rear bags with your choice of shocks in the rear. 

You can always weld a piece of 1" pipe on where the nipple was if you ever go back to springs :beer:


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## bryangb (Jun 16, 2010)

My ss5's with no nipple or top cup make 0 noises when I air up and nothing "pops" into place :beer: :beer:


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## juldupp (Feb 12, 2011)

Ss-5 are backorder id have to go with re-5, is it still good enough to kiss the floor and are they stronger?


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## Squirrel Nuts (Aug 25, 2010)

juldupp said:


> Ss-5 are backorder id have to go with re-5, is it still good enough to kiss the floor and are they stronger?


I believe the difference is that the RE-5's have a metal top instead of plastic like the SS-5's. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.


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## Squirrel Nuts (Aug 25, 2010)

bryangb said:


> My ss5's with no nipple or top cup make 0 noises when I air up and nothing "pops" into place :beer: :beer:


Mine does. It's the metal on metal though. NBD.


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## juldupp (Feb 12, 2011)

Squirrel Nuts said:


> I believe the difference is that the RE-5's have a metal top instead of plastic like the SS-5's. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.


But its pretty much the same quality? Will metal directly on my d-cups make any more noises than plastic on d-cups?


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## Squirrel Nuts (Aug 25, 2010)

juldupp said:


> But its pretty much the same quality? Will metal directly on my d-cups make any more noises than plastic on d-cups?


The metal is inside on the top and bottom or something like that. I'd wait for someone else to chime in though before you take my word on it.


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## juldupp (Feb 12, 2011)

white pepper said:


> misha cuts the whole nipple off and doesnt use the top bracket from dcups for max lows.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


do you have any higher res pictures or could you explain me what is "trimming nipple" exactly because i have no idea what your'e talking about haha


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## juldupp (Feb 12, 2011)

Should i frame notch the front, the guy at the garage asked me if i wanted, should i?


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## bacardicj151 (Dec 9, 2007)

juldupp said:


> do you have any higher res pictures or could you explain me what is "trimming nipple" exactly because i have no idea what your'e talking about haha


Go to rat4life's Flickr. A wealth of knowledge there


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## 98DUB (Feb 21, 2003)

juldupp said:


> But its pretty much the same quality? Will metal directly on my d-cups make any more noises than plastic on d-cups?


Yeah same quality. The SS's have a bit more lift I believe. Other than that, same thing. Im running RE's and love em. You bolt the dcups to the bag, so it doesnt matter if its metal or plastic 



juldupp said:


> Should i frame notch the front, the guy at the garage asked me if i wanted, should i?


unless you want a gangster lean


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## juldupp (Feb 12, 2011)

Haha gangster lean, Hell noo do not want!


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## coneklr (Sep 23, 2003)

Again, the nipples do NOT have to be cut and you wont get "teetering". Like stated in this thread you do sometimes get a pop when the bolt goes into place in the bottom of the nipple when airing up. But Im pretty low without trimmed or shaved nipples. I do plan on trimming mine down a little just because the pop does kind of annoy me. 

Just a note, if you shave the nipple off completely you will need to reweld it back on if you want to go back to stock suspension. If you just shave it slightly lower you can still put stock springs back on later.

The SS-5's have a tad more lift than the re-5's but are a plastic top and bottom vs. metal. They are bolted to the d-cups so you wont notice any more noise with either. I have the SS-5's on mine and Luke has RE-5's and mine definitely goes higher in the rear. But I am also on stock shocks right now. I had to deburr my dcups quite a bit before I put them on. But im was being pretty picky about all the peices of metal sticking off of them.


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## juldupp (Feb 12, 2011)

I told the guy to trim the nipples, not cut it


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## fasttt600 (Apr 12, 2007)

juldupp said:


> I told the guy to trim the nipples, not cut it


you know that now voids your whole warranty? right
:laugh:


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## bryangb (Jun 16, 2010)

fasttt600 said:


> you know that now voids your whole warranty? right
> :laugh:


It doesn't void any warranty unless that directly relates to the part that failed :beer:


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## choey (Feb 11, 2007)

bryangb said:


> It doesn't void any warranty unless that directly relates to the part that failed :beer:


:thumbup:


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## bacardicj151 (Dec 9, 2007)

bryangb said:


> It doesn't void any warranty unless that directly relates to the part that failed :beer:


:thumbup::thumbup:


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## fasttt600 (Apr 12, 2007)

bryangb said:


> It doesn't void any warranty unless that directly relates to the part that failed :beer:


It was a joke.......:wave:


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## juldupp (Feb 12, 2011)




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## bryangb (Jun 16, 2010)

fasttt600 said:


> It was a joke.......:wave:


Sorry, didn't realize it was a joke. Just wanted to make sure he knew that wasn't true :beer::beer:


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## DubStink (Jun 25, 2012)

For those curious about playing with your nipples:

http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthread.php?5594412-SS-5-bags-and-D-cups-on-MKV

I threaded all thread into the frame and went in easy without the top mount.


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