# Timing Code Troubleshooting P000A & P0011



## slimmj0k3r (Apr 9, 2006)

Hey all,

've been getting the following codes:

16395/P0011/000017 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake): Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)
P000A/000010 - Camshaft A (Bank 1 Intake): Positioner Slow Response

Initially we figured it was the N205 valve or timing was off. Judging by how the car was running it was safe to say that timing was fine. I had a spare N205 valve laying around and threw it in but had the same codes. We checked timing and as I suspected timing was just fine. I decided to switch out the cam chain and tensioner as I heard some chain rattle back there. Got that all swapped & re-timed the car but still throwing codes.

Today I swapped out the cam position sensor and new N205 valve I ordered. Went for a few drives and got the following codes.

000017 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake) 
P0011 - 004 - Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 46882 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2505 /min
Load: 24.3 %
Speed: 54.0 km/h
Temperature: 92.0°C
Temperature: 48.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 960.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.716 V

and this is what I get once the CEL comes on.

000010 - Camshaft Positioner (Bank 1 Intake) 
P000A - 008 - Slow Response - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 46882 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2505 /min
Load: 24.3 %
Speed: 54.0 km/h
Temperature: 92.0°C
Temperature: 48.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 960.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.716 V

help! :banghead:


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## MKSGLI1989 (Nov 27, 2012)

I have recently developed the same fault, will set during highway cruising. Most recently set during a long road trip, but the CEL turned off on its own on the way back, have you found a solution for this? i have already replaced the intake cam, follower, chain, and chain tensioner. oil pressure is good as well.

here is my freeze frame data 
000010 - Camshaft Positioner (Bank 1 Intake) 
P000A - 008 - Slow Response - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 6
Mileage: 130304 km

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2649 /min
Load: 19.2 %
Speed: 106.0 km/h
Temperature: 93.0°C
Temperature: -3.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 990.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.605 V


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## panarasgr (Nov 28, 2013)

I have the same problem. Just order a N205 sensor and will try to fix this problem. No rough idle no nothing and car is running fine when pushing hard. I guess the sensor is faulty?


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## MKSGLI1989 (Nov 27, 2012)

there could be multiple possibilities, slow responding cam position sensor, slow acting adjustment valve, slow responding gears on the cam shafts, oil pressure, or oil passages plugged, don't like throwing parts around, but the sporadic concern makes it hard to pin point a failed component


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## Bo Toichi (Jan 15, 2013)

You may be having problems with the "Hydrolik ring" cam adjuster on the end of the exhaust cam,on the end cover there is a small cylinder that protrudes into the hydraulic cam adjuster and that cylinder has small holes where the oil will be distributed when the N205 solenoid is activated,and on that cylinder you will see 3 "piston ring" type seals that are non servicable/replaceable,and these piston ring seals are made out of a hard plastic and I have seen these broken apart upon removal of the end cover,and if these break apart the distribution of pressurised oil will be compromised and may not pressurise the hydraulic adjuster adequately. I would take the end cover off and see if those rings are broken into pieces. Good luck


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## Tscrihfield (Jun 20, 2011)

*Same issue here!*

Any progress on this? I would love to here what conclusion you came to.


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## slimmj0k3r (Apr 9, 2006)

Not really, Had the head re-built by audi as well as a new exhaust cam + cam adjuster replaced on the end of the exhaust cam (big round thing) and still throwing a code. Everything mechanically related has been checked out so I'm looking into electrical at this point. I've put about 2000+ miles on the car without any issues, just did a compression check today and everything has been fine. 

Just a list of what's been done:

cam position sensor
new exhaust cam + cam adjuster assembly.
rebuild head
replaced the N205 valve twice
replaced cam timing chain + tensioner
re-timed the car 3 times
Checked for clogged oil passages in the block
Swapped ECU's

:banghead:


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## Tscrihfield (Jun 20, 2011)

*Another idea*

You may have already done this... Have you checked the oil pump pickup tube? I hear that there is a mesh filter where it attaches to the pump and it causes slight starvation and cause the cam adjuster issues. Worth a try, I am tearing into mine tomorrow to check it.


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## slimmj0k3r (Apr 9, 2006)

Tscrihfield said:


> You may have already done this... Have you checked the oil pump pickup tube? I hear that there is a mesh filter where it attaches to the pump and it causes slight starvation and cause the cam adjuster issues. Worth a try, I am tearing into mine tomorrow to check it.


Yep, I could try replacing it but when i had the pan off checking the oil channels we inspected the pickup tube and it was clean. The pan has to come off soon anyway since I'm having the hardest time getting the two back bolts in (nearest the trans on a b7) and I have a spare balance shaft assembly laying around.


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## Tscrihfield (Jun 20, 2011)

*Found my issue*

Okay, not sure if you're still hunting your issue or not but I found mine. While I was digging in the oil pan, I found that the second shaft running through the oil pump had began eating away at the housing. Not sure if it is bushed or bearing... But whatever it is it had failed and that shaft was loose as could be. I am waiting on a new pump now and I am weary that the engine did not fair well while the oil pump died a slow death... But since the timing is driven off of oil pressure and my pump was failing, I believe that was my culprit. I will let you know more when I finish.

As for pan removal you'll want a long hex driver bit with a ball end (5mm). Like this http://www.mscdirect.com/product/84..._srEvOl6oR_PLA__25122933424_t_S&026=-99&025=t

I bought a set at lowes for $30, best thing for working on VWs.


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## slimmj0k3r (Apr 9, 2006)

I swapped the oil pump assembly in when I re-built the motor, this one came from a buddy of mine who did the 1.8 pump conversion. I cleaned the unit thoroughly and inspected it. Didn't see anything that raised a red flag but what's interesting is that the exact same setup (head, bottom end, ect) with a different oil pump didn't throw a code. The only reason I removed that previous oil pump is that one of the shafts felt really sluggish after I spun a bearing...kinda hard to describe but i didn't like the way it was spinning.

Where'd you get the new assembly from? I know they're not cheap from the dealer!


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## Tscrihfield (Jun 20, 2011)

*Oil pump*

Well, as I am sure there is not a cheap alternative in this case... I decided to go with the USP 1.8 oil pump kit. The balance shaft is what failed in mine and I don't want to take another chance. It is less than the OEM pump by less than half the cost.


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## slimmj0k3r (Apr 9, 2006)

Don't you have to tap the block? Is your motor out?


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

How have you been checking the timing


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## slimmj0k3r (Apr 9, 2006)

Tutti57 said:


> How have you been checking the timing


Cam timing? I have the tool from vw/audi. And timing belt well there are two marks one up top near the cam gear and one near the crank gear.


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## Tscrihfield (Jun 20, 2011)

slimmj0k3r said:


> Don't you have to tap the block? Is your motor out?


No, not yet. Started removing all of the hoses and accessories on Thursday.


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## raswails (Feb 12, 2012)

*Timing Code Troubleshooting P000A & P0011, FIX*

This is my first post on this forum but i want to tell you of what I found for a fix, my car was a 2007 Passat 2.0T , I found a plugged filter screen in the oil passage on the timing chain cover, I removed the screen flushed out the oil passages in the cover and in the cylinder head and now all is well.


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## thibramar (Oct 23, 2016)

Hello... Anyone solved this code error???

Thx!



slimmj0k3r said:


> Hey all,
> 
> 've been getting the following codes:
> 
> ...


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## Bolkswagen (Jul 21, 2007)

*Solution (so far) to P0011/additional questions*

Hi All, so I do not have your exact engine, but was googling and came upon this thread. I have a 2012 Audi A4 2.0T 6M CAEB. P0011/P00A for just over six months until I finally took to dealership. No other noticeable symptoms, maybe decreased gas mileage, but I drive quick, so didn't really notice.

I had taken the car to my mechanic three times within that six months, but to no avail (at least not for any length of time). First time he checked timing chain/tensioner, etc. Everything looked fine, reset light, took car home. Light on/off for another couple months, only at high speeds (80-85 mph). I could make light go off by driving slower for ~3 days. Brought car in in July, replaced timing chain/guides/tensioner/cover. I believe the light was off for ~1 week, then back on. Same codes. Drove fine. Late September, light won't go off, no matter what speed. I thought maybe I accidentally drove faster, didn't think much of it, no addt'l symptoms. Late October, low coolant light came on. Topped it off, thought maybe didn't get filled up at last service. Coolant light 2 days later. Then just leaking everywhere. Brought to mechanic, he replaced water pump, and I had him replace control valve, just in case that might solve my P0011 problem. NOPE. 

Take to dealer, they tell me that P0011 is not related to timing chain, etc, and that they would have known that, had I brought the car into them (is that true?). They tell me they want to replace the oil pressure control valve/N248. I balk at the cost, but agree. A day later, I mention that the rear main seal was replaced right before I purchase the car, and that I've already replaced the water pump (I was asking how much an engine was, b/c I was going to be $6-7k into this car this year). He takes a couple hours to get back to me, and tells me that it's an educated guess, but they think they've found a way to test the valve (previously told me they couldn't), and it tested fine. Now recommend replacing camshaft. Said it must have a blockage in the oil passages. Ok...confused, but I was trying to get to Thanksgiving, so not much time for questions. Replace it. No light yet (replaced last Wed)!

*TL;DR:* P011A in May only at high speeds, with no addt'l symptoms noticed by me. In July, Replaced: timing chain, timing cover, tensioner, guides, intake control valve. NADA. 3 months after replacement of above, water pump leaks. Replace. Bring to dealership: They first tell me Oil Pressure Control Valve needs to be replaced. After hearing rear main seal and water pump have been replaced, they tell me they think it's clogged passages in the camshaft, so ended up replacing camshaft. No light since last Wed. 

So, the apparent solution was a new camshaft. 
*
My questions to you all:* Is P0011 really not something related to timing chain, etc.? Is there a test my mechanic could have ran that would have determined it was the camshaft? My mechanic said the chain/tensioner/guides looked fine. Is there a way to tell the issue was blocked passage, in or out of the vehicle? I asked them how the cam looked, but he did not answer my question. I'm asking again now, but fearing that he might just say they "don't remember". What is the root cause here????? I'm not understanding. Could it be related to the main seal leak that was replaced right before I purchased? Could it be related to the water pump (idk, sorry)? I feel like it's lack of oil...but WHY. The dealership is being the opposite of forthcoming.


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