# Running "how-to" post on installing leveling motors on pre-2003 OEM HID's...



## nater (Apr 10, 2000)

EDIT:
Here's the how to.
*REMEMBER:* This is for pre-03 HID's (except where it says otherwise). And the standard disclaimers hold that you do this at your own risk. While this is very accurate information please take note that we are all human - do not hold any of us liable for any info that may be incorrect.
We are all learning how to do this. Use your head when wiring up your HID's.
OK...that was easy, right?
Here's some good pics:
















































I'm short on time but maybe Mike can go through some details here...but the pics do wonders, don't they?
Later,
_Modified by nater at 2:15 PM 9-30-2003_


_Modified by nater at 2:47 PM 9-30-2003_


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## MHZvr6 (Aug 16, 2002)

*Re: Running "how-to" post on installing leveling motors on pre-2003 OEM HID's... (nater)*

Many thanks Nate.... & yes, I'll post a few other points to consider as well as the Part Numbers of the Wire Repair Kit wire's & Rheostat switch. This way those of you that have the pre 2003's Bosch HID's can make it happen on your rides as well.
Sorry, but I have not cracked this beast on the 2003 OEM HID's, but know that I'm trying and a few other great guys like Chris Kennedy over at the TDi forum.
See tuned http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## MHZvr6 (Aug 16, 2002)

*Re: Running "how-to" post on installing leveling motors on pre-2003 OEM HID's... (nater)*

Nate,
Please kill the info on that link and post new info that I'm sending you today.
This time the "new" fix applies to pre 2003 & 2003 OEM Bosch HID's. Basically the powerpoint side is a bit "hosed". I tried to get the leveler/R-stat switch installed this past week end and ran into issues... so I got in touch with a guy out in Calf that bought a set of 2003 Bora HID's & a R-stat/leveling switch from me early last year. 
Adam is the guys name & he has the leveling switch working on/with his 03 HID's!!! We both spent the weekend emailing one another about the problems I was having in getting my leveling syst to work on my pre 03 Golf HID's. After Adam saw my powerpoint side he shared what it will take to get them to work & updated the slides with details. 
I'll be sending you the new PowerPoint slides to re-post in a few minutes. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif . 



_Modified by MHZvr6 at 11:02 AM 9-29-2003_


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## Kennedy (Jul 23, 2002)

*Re: Running "how-to" post on installing leveling motors on pre-2003 OEM HID's... (MHZvr6)*

Great news Mike...
Can't wait to see the updated slide.
I have wires in hand and am ready to wire this thing in.
BTW, here's some goodies to drool over: 
from TDIclub:
Finally got my Bora HID's from Mike Zimmerman... Just installed them, and got the balls to dremel my bumper so I can wire up my headlight sprayers.



























































_Modified by Kennedy at 7:47 PM 9-29-2003_


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## MHZvr6 (Aug 16, 2002)

*Re: Running "how-to" post on installing leveling motors on pre-2003 OEM HID's... (Kennedy)*

Way to go there HOME's... thats the bomb!!! I just love it when a plan comes together.
Ok, then enuff smack & one liners... I'll send you the new ppt sides in a few so you can get cracking.
I had my head my tail pipe I guess this weekend cause nothing I tried worked, so I just buttoned the Vr6 up and let the VF-Eng Supercharger take it out on one of those new Z-350's or what ever they are... I had a blast, cleared my head and got in touch with Adam (former customer).


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## Kennedy (Jul 23, 2002)

*Re: Running "how-to" post on installing leveling motors on pre-2003 OEM HID's... (MHZvr6)*

Word g-biscuits...
Yep, to celebrate my installation I did a nice night drive along the beach of NC, then came home, jumped on the new HD V-rod, and cruised thru town. Great weekend.
Pics'll be back on line tonight, the tdiclub server is being moved.


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## nater (Apr 10, 2000)

*Re: Running "how-to" post on installing leveling motors on pre-2003 OEM HID's... (Kennedy)*

*Please see first post as I've added the updated slides.* 
And this time you don't even need to click on a link!








Enjoy!

Everybody add the info that you want - we want this to be a work in progress so that others may benefit.

Later,


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## MHZvr6 (Aug 16, 2002)

*Re: Running "how-to" post on installing leveling motors on pre-2003 OEM HID's... (nater)*

Very true..."work in progress"... good call b/c Chris & few others still have a few questions regarding the slides. "We" (all thet chime in) will nail each issue sooner or later. Many thanks again for posting the revised slides. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## VReihenmotor6 (Dec 12, 2001)

*Re: Running "how-to" post on installing leveling motors on pre-2003 OEM HID's... (nater)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nater* »_










can we get someone to test the voltage of pin 2 when the switch is in the highes position?


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## Mike0105 (Dec 31, 1999)

*Re: Running "how-to" post on installing leveling motors on pre-2003 OEM HID's... (VReihenmotor6)*

I've got a leveling question. Now the leveling switch controls both headlights at once, how do you ensure both the headlights are in the correct position to start? i know currently, basically just installing mine my driverside lamp is much lower then the passenger side. Do I use the adjustments on the back to get them level then hook up the r-stat with leveling control?
Mike


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## chaos on wheels (Dec 24, 2002)

*Re: Running "how-to" post on installing leveling motors on pre-2003 OEM HID's... (nater)*

This is how I did manual leveling with my OEM Audi A4 HID retrofit: 
http://www.audizine.com/forum/...B5+A4
If VW uses the same light position controller, this might apply here as well.


_Modified by chaos on wheels at 6:42 AM 10-3-2003_


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## GS Audio (Oct 17, 2001)

*Re: Running "how-to" post on installing leveling motors on pre-2003 OEM HID's... (nater)*

Lots of good info here......
Many thx to Mike Z and Nater!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## nater (Apr 10, 2000)

*Re: Running "how-to" post on installing leveling motors on pre-2003 OEM HID's... (GS Audio)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
It's a work in progress. And since I've only got the MK4 HID lamps and NO ACTUAL MK4 CAR we all need to work together here.
Later,


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## MHZvr6 (Aug 16, 2002)

*Re: Running "how-to" post on installing leveling motors on pre-2003 OEM HID's... (GS Audio)*

Thanks GS Audio, but to not too much for me please.... Adam Haleck ([email protected]) is the one person I personally know that mapped out his 2003 Bora HID's with the Rheostat/leveling switch... and was also kind enough to "fix" my first shot of the powerpoint slide. The result of Adams work is what Nate posted for us here.
BTW, I'll be re-attempting my hook up again this weekend... got no where last go a round







and beat up on an unsuspecting 350 Z afterwards out on the interstate


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## SILVR6-CISCO (Apr 11, 2002)

*Re: Running "how-to" post on installing leveling motors on pre-2003 OEM HID's... (MHZvr6)*

I had a quick question on just the rheostate wiring. I have 2003 OEM HID's and I ordered a rheostate swich that should be arriving today. Will the first wiring schematic wook on 2003 HIDs? OR is there a different schematic for 2003's. Cant wait to get the rheostae working.


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## MHZvr6 (Aug 16, 2002)

*Re: Running "how-to" post on installing leveling motors on pre-2003 OEM HID's... (SILVR6-CISCO)*

Cisco,
No, don't use use the 1st Powerpoint slide that was posted... this is the revised one.


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## emumtl (Feb 21, 2002)

*Made Sense of this...*

Well, I installed the EuroStat on the Weekend...
Here's an abbreviated Text Version Tips and Pitfalls...

_What wires need to go where..._
1. You will need get the R2 (as per the Power Point Jpegs) From the Rheostat to the front of the vehicle, where the Head Lamp Harness is.
2. You will need to be Have At your Wiring Lamp Harness the following....
a) *R2* from the Front the Rheostat will be located at T12-11 (as per the Power Point Jpegs).
b) *T12-1*(as per the Power Point Jpegs) will be your Power Supply (for the Internal Levelling motors) and in my case, I did not have a pin or wire running to this location (that being, T12-1). It needs to be constant power, or, power constant when the lights are on. Therefore, I went internally, inside the headlamps to locate power for this and I chose the 
"city Light" location.
c) *T12-8* will be your Ground Supply (for the Internal Levelling motors) and in my case, I did in fact have a pin and wire at this location in the headlamp wiring harness. If you do not have ground there, you can locate it at one of the many points inside the OEM HID Headlamp.

3. You will now need to modify ONE wire inside the OEM HID Headlamp (assuming of course you have ground T12-8 & T12-1 as the wiring Harness). That Being, the *T20* (below, I will detail it's exact location). You can either cut this wire (which is what I did) from the Ballast Harness Plug, or, tap into it. This wire *T20]* that you have cut or spliced into, is the signal feed which tells the levelling motors to either go up or go down. *T20* that you have cut from the Ballast Wiring harness needs to be "Reconnected" to *T12-11* found on the INTERNAL Headlamp Socket connector (We are now dealing with Internal Wiring inside your OEM HID Headlamps).

_Identifying Parts, Wires, Colour Scheme..._
1. Inside the OEM HID Headlamps, you will find the EXACT location of the Levelling Motors at (drum roll please).............. Held in place by Two torx screws, located IN/ON the Headlamp housing behind where you remove the HID back Cover on the HID Headlamps, and located directly below the Projector housing. The Motor is black and white in colour. The motor has Three wires.... hard to see at first, but stick your hand an remove the "other access panel" for the High Beam Bulbs to identify them.
a.) BLACK wire going from levelling motor to T20 (in non modified form) (this is the signalling wire needed by the levelling motors to let it know whether to go up or down)
b.) Black wire going from levelling motor to T12-1 (this is constant power supply for the motors when the lights are on)
c.) Brown wire going from levelling motor to T12-8 (this is the ground needed by the levelling motors)
2. *T20* is found on a harness inside the OEM HID headlamps, located directly below the HIGH Beam lamp (behind the access panel for the HIGH Beam Lamp) and/or directly above the HID BALLAST (which is located on the outside and below the OEM HID Lights). Remove the External HID Ballast, it is held in place by three phillips screws and simply pops off. Now, you can visually see the cutout and the T20 Harness Socket. You can press the two detents to remove the T20 harness form the bottom of the OEM HID lamps if you like, it will help in identifying the *T20* WIRE. You can identify the wire *T20* three ways. You can simply identify "WHICH Black Wire" Goes from location "BALLAST WIRING HARNESS" to "LEVELLING MOTOR"... You can Isolate Which BLACK Wire is the Twenthieth Wire in the Wiring Harness (since 20 is the maximum number of wires, it is the last wire in the harness, and can be at one of the four points in the Square Harness Socket, but since there is only ONE Black wire at the Extreme of the Wiring Harness, that is *T20*... or, you can look inside the OEM HID Ballasts and that male plug which goes to the *T20* Ballast harness can in fact be identified if you are in a well lit area, you can count the pinouts since one side of the male socket connector has pin out values.

_Tips and MHO...._
1. Disregard the standard colour scheme that we have grown up with. VW uses inside the OEM HID lights... brown for grounds, black for power, as well as Red for power and black for ground. They also use green, violet, and yellow.
2. After you have completed the necessary wiring and installation of the HID EuroRheostat, Don't ACTIVATE THEM right Away. I highly recommend that you BACK OFF some of the height adjustment on your HID headlamps. Normally, and as I had it, I had them MAXXED out to "UP" setting. Well, for Some No Good @%^&@*& reason, my drivers side adjustment screw BROKE. I am not sure if this occured upon activation of the levelling motors. All I know is, after I activated them, I noticed the drivers side projector light Bottomed out. * I cannot describe the level of grief and frustration that I felt after having demystified this Mod, and completing it, only to have THIS happen to me*. Does the vision of "Cursing UP" a Storm Come to Mind? I went to Church on Sunday TWICE.
3. You will NEED Wiring Repair harnesses from VW to properely complete ths mod. You will need 1 Wiring repair Harness (you can cut it in half to make two wires/pins) for the EuroRheostat. AND, you may or may not need three additional wiring repair harnesses (you cut them in half, hence doubling up on your qty's) for the Headlamp Harness. T12-8 (your ground, and in my case it was there), T12-11 Your EuroRheostat signal for your levelling motors, and T12-1 (power, and in my case it was not pinned out in my wiring harness, and I chose to get power INSIDE the OEM HID Headlamp rather than Tapping or running from Outside, where the Headlamp Harness is located.
4. I do not like, nor am a particularly big fan of Scotch Wire taps. And though less "clean in look", I prefer skinning wires and adding a little flux to the adjoining wires and soldering them together. I like to finish and protect them with either heat shrink or High Quality Electrical tape (don't pull pieces off, cut them with a razor blade, it looks cleaner and the tape doesn't pull itself back after you have wound the wire). Automotive Vehicles, Vibrations, and Cold and Hot conditions are elements best avoided and hence I Solder all my wires.

Well, that's it. If anybody has any questions, feel free to email me [email protected]
P.S. If anybody has a Drivers Side OEM HID headlamp void of any electronics and parts available for sale, let me know...


_Modified by emumtl at 9:01 AM 10-6-2003_


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## nater (Apr 10, 2000)

*Re: Made Sense of this... (emumtl)*

Mike,
Would it be safe to say (or hypothesise) that if you are going to do this "mod" to avoid breaking adjusting screws that a good way to do it would be to:
1) Manually adjust either to MAX or MIN.
2) When activating leveling motors have it set to the OPPOSITE of what you set it to?
Meaning,
Before you start with this project...lower the projector until it dead-ends (don't break adjusting screw here).
Then before activating motors have it set to the highest position.
This way worst-case scenario is that it goes the OPPOSITE way of where you are bottomed out at.
The pitfall to this would be (IMO) that you need to make sure you are going the right way before you activate otherwise you'll DEFINITELY ruin your adjusters.
Does this seem like a reasonable theory???

Later,


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## MHZvr6 (Aug 16, 2002)

*Re: Made Sense of this... (nater)*

Nate,
Yep, I think that's the very good thing to do.... that is to turn the adjustor so that the HID capsule is down all the way so that when power is applied & the capsule is turns upwards via the R-stat switch or by power hitting the circuit there may not be the case of dorking up either adjustor (my guess).
I say down b/c most of the ppl tha broke the adjustors have done so while bringing the capsule up all the way. 
One just needs to be aware of where the thumbwheel is sitting at in relationship to the capsules when power hits them.


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## MHZvr6 (Aug 16, 2002)

*Re: Made Sense of this... (emumtl)*

Good stuff there Mike... but I'm sorry to learn of the crapped out lamp though.
I can check around 4 you to see about a replacement.... I assume you have 03's, eh?


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## emumtl (Feb 21, 2002)

*Re: Made Sense of this... (MHZvr6)*

But!!! I had both adjustments set to max up... so go figure...
anyhoot, a safe bet is to back off on the adjustment, and leave it in a neutral base position...
Not all down, nor all up... 
Yep... it's a 2003 light...
FWIW I did manage to use my soldering gun to heat the broken bit back on the internal shaft bit... so, at least it isn't sitting bottomed out.
I would of liked to take pics of the event, seeing as how I was going in with it blindly, and only after, once I had everything wired up and working... did the misshap happened... thus ending my passion to take pictures (which I should of!!!!)... but, will do so once I open up everything again and try to fix the projector housing internally somehow...


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## bigmacf1 (Sep 29, 2001)

*Re: Running "how-to" post on installing leveling motors on pre-2003 OEM HID's... (nater)*

Any suggestion on how to have both auto-levelling and manual levelling working? TIA















BTW, Mike, I sent you IM.


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## MHZvr6 (Aug 16, 2002)

*Re: Running "how-to" post on installing leveling motors on pre-2003 OEM HID's... (bigmacf1)*

Did you get your answer? If not let me know and I'll shoot one, ok?


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## SILVR6-CISCO (Apr 11, 2002)

*Re: Running "how-to" post on installing leveling motors on pre-2003 OEM HID's... (MHZvr6)*

Anyone figure out the wiring changes from the pre 2003 to the 2003' with the intergrated ballist. I have the 2003 HID's and the rheostate, the plug wiring is the same as I can get the swich to dim the iterior lights. The light however are not moving. Any help help, someone has to have got this working.


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## MHZvr6 (Aug 16, 2002)

*Re: Running "how-to" post on installing leveling motors on pre-2003 OEM HID's... (SILVR6-CISCO)*

It's all laid out in the last 2 slides on top.. you'll need to do some wiring there Bro.


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## SILVR6-CISCO (Apr 11, 2002)

*Re: Running "how-to" post on installing leveling motors on pre-2003 OEM HID's... (MHZvr6)*

Mike,
I had a few questions about Slide 6. I have the 10-12 pin adaptor that is set up like:
10 12 
8-8
6-4
10-3
4-7
9-5
7-6
I know that each side of of the 12 pin #11's go connected together and then ran into the cab to the #2 slot on the swich. I thought the #1 plug is connected to the #6 plug on the 12 side using a scoth connector, on the passenger and drivers side HID. In Slide 6 you have the #6 wire from the 12 pin side runnig to the swich? This is the part that I am having a little trouble with. Which slot dose the #6 plug into on the rheostate it self?


_Modified by SILVR6-CISCO at 11:06 PM 10-18-2003_


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## emumtl (Feb 21, 2002)

There is NO PIN or Slot No. 6 on the EuroRheostat. It shows up on the slide, but if you check your EuroRheostat, you only have two PIN Outs to Connect.


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## MHZvr6 (Aug 16, 2002)

*Re: (emumtl)*

Mike,
Thanks for the getting the answer to the guy above. I saw this this mistake when Adam H. & I were tossing ideas back & forth & never "fixed" the slide. 
Sorry for the confusion to all that may wonder if the got they correct R-Stat switch or not.


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## SILVR6-CISCO (Apr 11, 2002)

*Re: Running "how-to" post on installing leveling motors on pre-2003 OEM HID's... (nater)*

One important question 








The T12-11 needs to be but connected to the leveling motor found on the back of the HID case. There are three wires to choose from back there (green, black, red) which one do I but connect the T12-11 (yellow wire) to. 
Here is what I am lloking at The leveling motor is in the first pic with the red, green, black wire running to it from the T20 wire connection. 

















_Modified by SILVR6-CISCO at 7:56 PM 10-20-2003_


_Modified by SILVR6-CISCO at 8:12 PM 10-20-2003_


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## emumtl (Feb 21, 2002)

*Re: Running "how-to" post on installing leveling motors on pre-2003 OEM HID's... (SILVR6-CISCO)*

Hehehehe... you could read my post above about that... it's a little bit of a ... read, o.k., reread... but, it's all there...
Also, draw out your intentions... it will make much more sense in the process... and become crystal clear...

My Quote from above post(s)... 
[Q]a) R2 from the Front the Rheostat will be located at T12-11 (as per the Power Point Jpegs).
b) T12-1(as per the Power Point Jpegs) will be your Power Supply (for the Internal Levelling motors) and in my case, I did not have a pin or wire running to this location (that being, T12-1). It needs to be constant power, or, power constant when the lights are on. Therefore, I went internally, inside the headlamps to locate power for this and I chose the 
"city Light" location.
c) T12-8 will be your Ground Supply (for the Internal Levelling motors) and in my case, I did in fact have a pin and wire at this location in the headlamp wiring harness. If you do not have ground there, you can locate it at one of the many points inside the OEM HID Headlamp.

3. You will now need to modify ONE wire inside the OEM HID Headlamp (assuming of course you have ground T12-8 & T12-1 as the wiring Harness). That Being, the T20 (below, I will detail it's exact location). You can either cut this wire (which is what I did) from the Ballast Harness Plug, or, tap into it. This wire T20] that you have cut or spliced into, is the signal feed which tells the levelling motors to either go up or go down. T20 that you have cut from the Ballast Wiring harness needs to be "Reconnected" to T12-11 found on the INTERNAL Headlamp Socket connector (We are now dealing with Internal Wiring inside your OEM HID Headlamps).[/q]

IN a NUTSHELL... T20 IS your signal wire telling your levelling motors, please move up, or please go down... and rather than getting that information or command from the HID Ballast Automatically, we are OVER riding this information by getting the feed manually (since we now control the Rheostat from INside the car) and telling the motors to please RAISE the projectors UP...
Makes sense?


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## SILVR6-CISCO (Apr 11, 2002)

*Re: Running "how-to" post on installing leveling motors on pre-2003 OEM HID's... (emumtl)*

Thanks


_Modified by SILVR6-CISCO at 10:19 AM 10-21-2003_


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## emumtl (Feb 21, 2002)

*Re: Running "how-to" post on installing leveling motors on pre-2003 OEM HID's... (SILVR6-CISCO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SILVR6-CISCO* »_I read your post, it all makes sense wich one of the three wires do I splice the the T12-11(yellow) to the red, green, or black wire that run in to the HID ballist. Remember I have 2003+ HID's. I just wnat to know which wire exactly. 

Woe Cowboy!!!!
You are IDENTIFYING the wrong PART as the Levelling MOTORS!!!!
The RED, BLACK, and GREEN wire is NOT, I repeat NOT the levelling motor, and is in fact part of the Ballast-Projector Bulb Component. Leave this alone...
The LEVELLING MOTOR is (look on your first Picture you posted) located BENEATH the HID Projector itself, and directly beneath the HID BULB Socket Harness and HID BULB assembly. You will see three wires as well, coming off of this part (Grey and black housing and should be emblazoned with the trademark "HELLA" if my memory serves me correctly). The wires found off of the Levelling motors are... 
The "Other" part of my post above... 
"Identifying Parts, Wires, Colour Scheme...
1. Inside the OEM HID Headlamps, you will find the EXACT location of the Levelling Motors at (drum roll please).............. Held in place by Two torx screws, located IN/ON the Headlamp housing behind where you remove the HID back Cover on the HID Headlamps, and located directly below the Projector housing. The Motor is black and white in colour. The motor has Three wires.... hard to see at first, but stick your hand an remove the "other access panel" for the High Beam Bulbs to identify them.
a.) BLACK wire going from levelling motor to T20 (in non modified form) (this is the signalling wire needed by the levelling motors to let it know whether to go up or down)
b.) Black wire going from levelling motor to T12-1 (this is constant power supply for the motors when the lights are on)
c.) Brown wire going from levelling motor to T12-8 (this is the ground needed by the levelling motors) "
There ya go... Hope your now well on your way to "wiring" up your HID's...


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## emumtl (Feb 21, 2002)

*Re: Running "how-to" post on installing leveling motors on pre-2003 OEM HID's... (emumtl)*

No problem... yw!


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## SILVR6-CISCO (Apr 11, 2002)

*Re: Running "how-to" post on installing leveling motors on pre-2003 OEM HID's... (emumtl)*

ly part I am mising now is. 
"b) T12-1(as per the Power Point Jpegs) will be your Power Supply (for the Internal Levelling motors) and in my case, I did not have a pin or wire running to this location (that being, T12-1). It needs to be constant power, or, power constant when the lights are on. Therefore, I went internally, inside the headlamps to locate power for this and I chose the 
"city Light" location."
1st questioin can I get the power constant source by scroth connecting fron the 12-10 pin harness? If you could discride the "Therefore, I went internally, inside the headlamps to locate power for this and I chose the 
"city Light" location", step allite better there are two wires running from the city light location. A green and a brown wire. How do I tap into the city lights 
Thanks


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## SILVR6-CISCO (Apr 11, 2002)

*Re: Running "how-to" post on installing leveling motors on pre-2003 OEM HID's... (SILVR6-CISCO)*

Here is what the inside looks like:
The T20 connection block with the T12-11 and T20-black CUT








And here is the a pic with the T12-11 wire butt connected to the T20 (black wire)


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## emumtl (Feb 21, 2002)

I'm sorry, I can't remember the colour scheme off the top of my head, but If I could see one open again, and compare the colour for the High Beam and the city light I may remember...
Of course, your "sure way" is to use your voltmeter, and hook everything up, leaving the access panels open. Turn Light switch to parking lights only, and then you can check for positive voltage at the connector terminals for i.e. the City Light or parking light.
I chose this, simply, because city lights are always on in the first mode on the headlamp switch and it kinda made sense to me, that the levelling motors should only be operational when the headlamps are in use...


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## SILVR6-CISCO (Apr 11, 2002)

*Re: (emumtl)*

Did you cut the T12-1 internaly from the back of the harness plug and scoth tap it to the city light for constant power source? I will break out the voltmeter to make sure, the color for power. Could you explain the process rather detailed. So I can complete this mod. 
I 'll take some pics of of the interior of the light maybee that will help to. 


_Modified by SILVR6-CISCO at 8:31 AM 10-22-2003_


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## SILVR6-CISCO (Apr 11, 2002)

*Re: Made Sense of this... (emumtl)*









T12-1(as per the Power Point Jpegs) will be your Power Supply (for the Internal Levelling motors) and in my case, I did not have a pin or wire running to this location (that being, T12-1). It needs to be constant power, or, power constant when the lights are on. Therefore, I went internally, inside the headlamps to locate power for this and I chose the 
"city Light" location.
I have this T12-1(light purple) included on my internal harness, so do I need to cut this wire and tap it to a constant power source? I am at aloss here I have already connected the T12-11 to the T20 wire bypassing the Ballist as per the Slide for 2003+HID's. I would really like to get this mod to work. 
Found the Green wire going to the city lights is the positive. So I decided to cut the T12-1 (light purple) and scroth connect it to the green wire from the city lights. THIS DID NOT WORK. It blew the parking light fuse in the fuse panel and the Phillips blue vison blub that was the city light. Is there another way to tap for constant power? 


_Modified by SILVR6-CISCO at 8:01 PM 10-22-2003_


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## emumtl (Feb 21, 2002)

*Re: Made Sense of this... (SILVR6-CISCO)*

The levelling motors have three wires as you know... constant power, ground, and Rheostat FEED.
One of them needs power (preferably when the Lights are in use), the wire is black (brilliant colour choice, eh?). This wire, is not to be confused with the "other" black wire coming off of the Levelling Motor and Going Directly to T20 (just to be sure, check and recheck)... and then there is Brown for Ground (the power point above is the inverse of what was explained about T12-1 and T12-8 in my case... I HAD Ground (T12-8) but was Missing T12-1.
NOW, In my Case, I did NOT have a Pin or a Wire Feeding throught the Headlamp Harness, hence, in my case T12-1 was empty on the Outside Harness Side, but in fact, internally, there are two wires on the Internal Headlamp Wiring harness from inside the Headlamp. I don't remember off the top of my head, but I tapped for power at the Positive side of the CITY Light and I don't remember if the city light does in fact go to the T12-1 location or not. I simply skinned the wire and tapped into it by soldering my "Black" positive levelling motor wire to it.
I did the same for the Passenger Light. I preferred getting power from the INSIDE of the headlamp than going externally.
As for your case of blowing fuses and light bulb, is it possible you made a mistake and tapped for Ground instead? Because it sounds like it if you blew the parking light fuse and blew the city light bulb (parking lights go on with the City Lights). Do you have any "hot" wires grounding out accidentally?
If this location is not convenient for you, you can locate an alternate source of power internally. Think about it, every bulb in the Headlamp requires power, hence they are a source for 12-13.65Volts. I did not want to mess around with the Ballast HArness Wiring for obvious reasons.


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## SILVR6-CISCO (Apr 11, 2002)

*Re: Made Sense of this... (emumtl)*

First off thanks for bearing with me! Wiring is just something that I am a little sketcky with, anything else is no problem. So you cut the other black wire running from the Leveling motor(other is the Black wire running to T20 and should be spliced with T12-11,internally(done that)) and taped it into the green wire running from the city lights. Green is the hot wire while the brown is the ground. 
The part that confuses me is the T12-1 internally. I have 1 wire internally and no wire externally. *So do I need to plug a cut repair harness into the T12-1 externaly? * Is this even nessacary if I tap constant power from the city lights?


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## SILVR6-CISCO (Apr 11, 2002)

*Re: Made Sense of this... (SILVR6-CISCO)*

Ok I got things to work but, how are the HID's supposed to workbut backwards, arn't they supposed to move upward when the rheostate number is increased, mine moves the HID lower. Do I have some wire reversed? Any help would be greatly apreciated. 
THANKS 


_Modified by SILVR6-CISCO at 10:30 PM 10-23-2003_


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