# Speed Bleeder pictorial installation



## JCB (Aug 12, 1999)

After several days on the track I finally bled the brakes using the Speed Bleeder brake bleeder screw. For anyone who does track days, this is a must do modification.
Once installed, the brake bleeding procedure can be done with one person and the mess is nearly eliminated. Simply loosen the Speed Bleeder screw 1/4 turn, connect your catch can and flex tube, pump the brake pedal, remove catch can and flex tube, and close the Speed Bleeder screw.
The initial installation and brake bleeding takes only a few minutes per brake caliper. In fact, it takes just as long to remove and reinstall a wheel as it does to install the new bleed screw and bleed one caliper.
Per the Speed Bleeder website, “A one way check valve lets the air and fluid out when the pedal is pressed and closes between pumps preventing new air from reentering the system between pumps.” 
http://www.speedbleeder.com/
The following is a pictorial of the installation on a 07 A3 2.0T (the same bleeder screws also worked on a 06 VW GTI 2.0T):
Parts ordered ($39 delivered):








Actual part number:








Old versus new:








Tools needed (13 MM wrench):








Rear brake caliper with dust cap removed:








Rear caliper with Speed Bleeder screw installed:








Rear caliper with catch can and flexible tube installed on Speed Bleeder screw:








Catch can with flex tube and carabiner:









Thanks to Sco for graciously helping with the installation!


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: Speed Bleeder pictorial installation (JCB)*

Speedbleeders kick ass! I got mine at http://www.raceshopper.com


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## scotaku (Sep 3, 1999)

The motivation here was two-fold...
First, as JCB pointed out, if you're at an event and you want to bleed your brakes to firm up the pedal again, the SpeedBleeders make the job go very quickly. Replacing the bleeder screws with check valves means the old two-man Brake Bleeding Dance of Mystery is a thing of the past.
Second, the rear calipers on the A3/MkV cars are the single worst designed component of these new cars. If I were a betting man, I'd put money on VAG having specified the old MkIV/B5/A4 Ate calipers drilled with the bleeders on the opposite ends; they look exactly alike. The parking brake lever, return spring, brake line, and bleeder screw are found in a space that would make a sardine feel cramped. Try working a flare wrench on the stock bleeder with an overflow hose and no room to move. With the SpeedBleeder, I can open it with no leak, pop on my overflow trap*, and pump the pedal with no air getting back in. :sigh:

* My overflow trap is not much more than an old brake fluid bottle with two holes tapped into the cap for the tube and to let air escape. I got the carabiner keychain thing from a trade show and strecthed it onto the bottle so I can clip the bottle near the bleeder and go.


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## jaybird722 (Sep 13, 2006)

*Re: Speed Bleeder pictorial installation (JCB)*

Very NICE!!!
Great Write up JCB!!!

I will add this to the To do LIST...!!


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

*Re: Speed Bleeder pictorial installation (jaybird722)*

Nice. I've been debating doing this for a while now.


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## scotaku (Sep 3, 1999)

*Re: Speed Bleeder pictorial installation (IJM)*

No more debate, Ian. And no more two-man brake bleeds in the paddock either! (I think the MkIV takes the same size, but double-check!)


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

*Re: Speed Bleeder pictorial installation (scotaku)*

My only concern is possible damage to the master cylinder from bleeding this way (pedal). My brakes are constantly mushy and the mechanic thinks it's the master cylinder.


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## JCB (Aug 12, 1999)

*Re: Speed Bleeder pictorial installation (IJM)*

My GTI brakes were mushy for 9 years despite all the modifications. 
Interestingly, I took it back to the dealer shortly after purchase and they said nothing was wrong.


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

*Re: Speed Bleeder pictorial installation (JCB)*

I've heard that many VWs are like that, but it seems like mine has gotten worse. I'm having an issue now where feels like my pads (Hawk HPS) aren't biting and I have to really mash the pedal to get them to work. I have to basically put the pedal to the floor to get the ABS to engage, and I just had the system pressure bled.


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

*Re: Speed Bleeder pictorial installation (IJM)*

Just ordered a set of 4.


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## scotaku (Sep 3, 1999)

It's in the air... I got a set for the BMW over the weekend.


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

*Re: (scotaku)*

The Bimmer, eh? Nice.


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## ocgocart337 (Jul 16, 2003)

*Re: Speed Bleeder pictorial installation (JCB)*

I've had the hardest time getting my bleed job done on my 337. Tried the vacuum pump route and it failed (mityvac 7000 model - couldn't keep a good enough seal on the vac line to draw much fluid without tons of bubbles). 
Tons and tons of diggin on this topic to find there isn't much out there but opinions and guesses. Not a lot of true experiences and knowledge. Bummer. 
I found the info here on the speed bleeders today and discovered there are two brands out there (Speed Bleeder and Edlebrock/Russel). Neither of them have updated model information for the A4 Dubs.







I called both companies and that didn't help (besides receiving a really rude tech guy at raceshopper and his info was WRONG!). Speed Bleeder's general number is incorrect and the toll-free was nothing but an answering machine. Couldn't reach anyone else today or find many places that carry this stuff, let alone for Dubs.
!'ve searched and searched and even called the stealership to try to confirm the correct OEM vavle size. I don't have a micrometer and tread gauge (yet) to confirm the parts on my calipers now, but I noticed small differences in the parts from the front vs. the rear. The OD appears to be 10 mm and the thread pitch is too small for me to really tell, other than 1mm maybe. I've heard from what little info I could get the the parts counter at the stealership that the sizes vary on the more recent GITs/Golfs and some use a 7M x ??. 
My brake pedal is really hard to move right now and I can't pump it. I would like to know for certain if the M10 x 1.0 is the correct size (short vs. long - difference is 3 mm on speed bleeders page). JCB's info above helped me with that clue for size. Don't know if I need to go with stainless or not (it's basically hidden from view, but is there any other reason to consider stainless besides it's purrty?)








Am I missing something somewhere critical about a pressure release in the system? Is ABS throwing me a curve somewhere that I haven't figured out yet? The car is up on jacks all the way around, but I'm wondering if I should carefully start the engine once to get the system to rebuild the pressure in the lines again (the brake pedal won't pump anymore after just one push). Do I need to shell out $100 for a Bently manual to figure this mystery out? I'm considering a pressurized approach next with yet another purchase of one of the tanks, but I like this one-way bleeder approach if I can. 
I also notice very little info about the bleeder on the manual transmission. Yes, it does need to be bled off as well as it feeds from the master reservoir for the brake system. surprise.


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