# Stuck front air lift strut



## black-n-tan (May 11, 2010)

I'm in the middle of installing airlifts XL slam series struts on my mkIV jetta. I pulled out my old coilovers with no problems but I am having one hell of a time getting the new struts in the hub. I have the control arm and axle disconnected. I have lubed and cleaned the strut and the hub but the new strut seems to get stuck about 1/4" into it. You guys have any tricks or know of a tool that could ease my pain? :banghead:


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## martin13 (Apr 20, 2010)

Are you using a proper spindle spreader tool? It will help a lot more than you think. You shouldnt need any lubricant, in fact I suggest you clean that off so that the strut doesnt slip in the spindle once you get it installed.


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

I went through this too. The splitter didnt help me at all. Here's what i did.
-Piece of wood on a jack under the knuckle
-3/4" cold chisel hammered in where the knuckle splits open
-While someone is jacking up the entire assembly someone else wiggle the hub back and forth while the strut slides in the knuckle. (may take a few attempts)


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## bryangb (Jun 16, 2010)

Spread the knuckle far as ****. The powder coat on airlift struts is kind of thick. May have to grind it off. Wiggle back and forth with the occasional wack of a big ****ing hammer on the knuckle


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## black-n-tan (May 11, 2010)

Good looking out guys. I gave the ol' whack the **** out of the knuckle several times yesterday to no avail. I thought about jacking the whole knuckle, I'll give that a try. These things sure are a bitch to get in!


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## JettaGT8V80 (Jun 12, 2003)

powdercoat is pretty thick may have to sand them down a lil to get them to slip on 

use the piece of wood and jack method


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## 98DUB (Feb 21, 2003)

JettaGT8V80 said:


> powdercoat is pretty thick may have to sand them down a lil to get them to slip on
> 
> use the piece of wood and jack method


^This, I sanded off the PC on the lower portion of the body. Primed it and painted with a light coat of black. Slid right in. :thumbup:


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## wolfsjetta03 (Jul 28, 2006)

when i installed my XL's i just used the spreader tool and they fell right in. i had a little trouble seating them all the way but you just have to work them down.


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## Culver (Jun 1, 2009)

I sanded the PC off down to the bare metal on both struts, coated them each with some anti-sieze, made my own spreader tool, and then heated up the knuckle till it was good and hot, and got the strut to work its way down.


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## Euro Enginuity (Aug 7, 2010)

Wipe off you spindle so it is not slippery.
Tap a chisel into place where the spindle separates to the point where it springs back. Make sure it is clear of the strut opening.
Lube with grease or wd40.
Slide the strut in.
Grab a beer.


Don't grind off the powder coating; it is there to protect the metal from corrosion especially on northern cars like PA.


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## iowarabbit (Mar 29, 2007)

Euro Enginuity said:


> Wipe off you spindle so it is not slippery.
> Tap a chisel into place where the spindle separates to the point where it springs back. Make sure it is clear of the strut opening.
> Lube with grease or wd40.
> Slide the strut in.
> ...


when the strut pocket clamps down on it, the powdercoating cracks and flakes off everywhere anyways... ask me how i know. :thumbdown:
when i installed mine, i had to drive a cold chisel halfway into the knuckle and block the slit with the head of an old 3/8" breaker bar. since i left the powdercoat on, i don't think they'll ever be removed without sacrificing the knuckles to a hungry grinder.


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## black-n-tan (May 11, 2010)

Today is a new day my friends! I'll let you know if these guys get in today. I'm not gonna scrap off any paint. I'll try prying open the knuckle, again, and see how it works out for me. Gotta love volkswagens! opcorn:


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## black-n-tan (May 11, 2010)

Driver side in!


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## black-n-tan (May 11, 2010)

Driver side in!


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## bryangb (Jun 16, 2010)

:beer::beer:


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## iowarabbit (Mar 29, 2007)

persistence pays off! congrats. you're in good company, this is where a lot of people get stuck for awhile. especially if you need to go buy a cold chisel and you have no other transportation... :banghead:


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## Miotke (May 16, 2010)

I did it a more non-convential way. I got it most of the way in but not fully. Took another, smaller garage air compressor and pumped some air into the bag with a jack underneath the knuckle and "shot" the strut right in place. :screwy:

It was scary as **** though. :laugh:


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Is that really all the way in?? My strut is in all the way so that there is about an 1/8" sticking out the bottom of the spindle and the section where it flares to the larger portion of the strut is almost touching the knuckle.


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

Yeah, same here^.


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## bryangb (Jun 16, 2010)

MechEngg said:


> Is that really all the way in?? My strut is in all the way so that there is about an 1/8" sticking out the bottom of the spindle and the section where it flares to the larger portion of the strut is almost touching the knuckle.


Normal


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## black-n-tan (May 11, 2010)

My old coils were installed by a professional shop. The base of the strut was protruding approximately 1/16" +\- give or take so I just duplicated that fitment. I put all I had into it to just get it there.


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

bryangb said:


> Normal


I know mine is normal :screwy:
My question was to him if his was in all the way. 



black-n-tan said:


> My old coils were installed by a professional shop. The base of the strut was protruding approximately 1/16" +\- give or take so I just duplicated that fitment. I put all I had into it to just get it there.


Okay just wanted to make sure you were getting them in as far as possible to get the lowest you could go :thumbup:


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## black-n-tan (May 11, 2010)

Okay just wanted to make sure you were getting them in as far as possible to get the lowest you could go :thumbup:[/QUOTE]

:thumbup: thanks for looking out


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

black-n-tan said:


> :thumbup: thanks for looking out


No worries, i just know that at some point your strut is going to be your limiting factor for how low you can go and I wanted to get that out of the way right off the bat.


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## shoff35 (Aug 18, 2011)

im having the same problem with mine... has anyone come up with any techniques that will make it easier or is it just a spreader tool and A LOT of time?? never had this type of trouble getting a strut on haha :beer:


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

shoff35 said:


> im having the same problem with mine... has anyone come up with any techniques that will make it easier or is it just a spreader tool and A LOT of time?? never had this type of trouble getting a strut on haha :beer:


It is because the strut with powdercoat is a mm or two larger than oem. Use a 3/4" cold chisel and bang it down into where the spreader tool should go. That does it, i got mine in with the powdercoating still intact :thumbup:


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

MechEngg said:


> It is because the strut with powdercoat is a mm or two larger than oem. Use a 3/4" cold chisel and bang it down into where the spreader tool should go. That does it, i got mine in with the powdercoating still intact :thumbup:


this exactly. Do not grind off the powdercoat. I used a 3/4" cold chisel, but a railroad spike works also. Good luck:thumbup:


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## Piso (Jan 4, 2012)

With my Bagyards I did inflate them a little, used a self made spreader and with the jack under the control arm they slide in perfectly


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## bryangb (Jun 16, 2010)

I just removed my airlifts and it took about 10-15 minutes per side. Putting them in is a little more difficult but still. Spread the strut far and beat the knuckle on. Or jack it up and twist the strut back and forth


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## black-n-tan (May 11, 2010)

I used a screwdriver and all I had to get the driver side in. Went out and bought a 3/4" chisel for the passenger side. After I knocked it in from the bottom side the strut slid right in with no issue. Lessons learned. Thanks again guys


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