# Is there a camber kit for CC?



## OEMplusCC (Jan 27, 2013)

Since my car is lowered my camber is more negative then stock (rear left -2.3 , rear right -1.8). I was wondering if there is any camber kit for passat b6/CC ?

Also does anybody know rear camber degree on stock suspension?

Thanks


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## brunoxmatoss (May 24, 2013)

yes there is. the camber kit for the mk6 works on the CC. however, the price may persuade you away from it.


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## Rlinetexas (Jun 27, 2011)

Just be prepared to buy more tires while being lowered


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## brunoxmatoss (May 24, 2013)

what? so much misinformation... 
camber hardly effects tire life. TOE is what negatively impacts tire wear. for the record. ive been on the same stretched federal tires with -2 camber for over a year (25,000) miles and they still have plenty of thread. 

get a GOOD alignment and youll be fine.


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## MikeinNJ (May 9, 2007)

brunoxmatoss said:


> what? so much misinformation...
> camber hardly effects tire life. TOE is what negatively impacts tire wear. for the record. ive been on the same stretched federal tires with -2 camber for over a year (25,000) miles and they still have plenty of thread.
> 
> get a GOOD alignment and youll be fine.


Do you know if factory alignment specs are still valid on a lowered car? OEMplusCC and I put our coils on around the same time and we both ended up going to firestone and getting their lifetime alignment. They put our cars alignment to factory spec. With that said my rear wheels look like they are a bit cambered out in the back. Wondering if that's the result of the 'factory alignment' spec being applied to a lowered car.


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## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

Your tires will wear uneven if toe is in. Spec. Camber and toe will roast ur tires quick. I'm looking for camber kits too 


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## brunoxmatoss (May 24, 2013)

Again, camber does not make tires wear faster. It only effects How tires wear. (uneven). 
Toe will make your tires wear faster and feather. (drive like ****) 

Camber kits aren't necessary for these cars.


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## BOUDAH (Aug 15, 2008)

They are if u intend to rotate ur tires 


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## AustinChappell (Jan 12, 2012)

Why would you need a camber kit for the cc?


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## OEMplusCC (Jan 27, 2013)

AustinChappell said:


> Why would you need a camber kit for the cc?





Because i want to adjust my negative camber to 0 or close to 0. I want to have even tire wear. Camber is not adjustable on stock suspension components 

Maybe it's wishful thinking 





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## iMod.:R (Nov 14, 2005)

OEMplusCC said:


> Because i want to adjust my negative camber to 0 or close to 0. I want to have even tire wear. Camber is not adjustable on stock suspension components
> 
> Maybe it's wishful thinking


Try reaching out to Brody at Integrated Engineering. Their MK5/MK6 camber kit may actually solve your dilemma. :beer::thumbup:


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## snobrdrdan (Sep 10, 2008)

OEMplusCC said:


> Since my car is lowered my camber is more negative then stock (rear left -2.3 , rear right -1.8). I was wondering if there is any camber kit for passat b6/CC ?
> 
> Also does anybody know rear camber degree on stock suspension?
> 
> Thanks


Kind of in the same boat here too with my Tig.
The rear does have a OEM camber bolt, but the most positive camber they could get out of it was -2 on both sides.



MikeinNJ said:


> Do you know if factory alignment specs are still valid on a lowered car? OEMplusCC and I put our coils on around the same time and we both ended up going to firestone and getting their lifetime alignment. They put our cars alignment to factory spec. With that said my rear wheels look like they are a bit cambered out in the back. Wondering if that's the result of the 'factory alignment' spec being applied to a lowered car.


I have the Firestone lifetime alignment too. The factory specs don't really matter on a lowered car, in all honesty. They're loose guidelines, at the most.

The front camber/caster isn't adjustable, so you want low/close to zero toe in the front....which is a no brainer on pretty much any car. _ They can shift the subframe on the front to equal out the camber side to side, but that's it.
_
On the rears...camber & toe are adjustable. Spec is like -0.8 to -1.8 for the camber....so anywhere in that range is "acceptable" & then toe is low/close to zero again....which again are almost no brainers on almost any car (meaning you want lower numbers)


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## TDI Driver (Jan 17, 2006)

You could also try looking into the SuperPro Roll Control Adjustable Ball Joints.

I have them on my CC and they offer just the right amount of camber adjustability to correct for the car being lowered. :thumbup:


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## snobrdrdan (Sep 10, 2008)

TDI Driver said:


> You could also try looking into the SuperPro Roll Control Adjustable Ball Joints.
> 
> I have them on my CC and they offer just the right amount of camber adjustability to correct for the car being lowered. :thumbup:



The OP was asking about the REAR camber


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## TDI Driver (Jan 17, 2006)

snobrdrdan said:


> The OP was asking about the REAR camber


Whoops, my mistake.


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## stancyvw (Jul 30, 2013)

You do have factory adjustments on the rear tires on the cc and most mk5 and mk6....I have mine maxed out at -3.5 degree (on air ride) cause of my fitment and stance look? But you don't need to buy a camber kit just to straighten out the tires, I'm not sure if you can get them to dead 0 degree but you don't need too, you get perfect tire wear with factory recommended alignment 

And for all you others who don't have a clue about driving a lowered car like mine I with my crazy offsets and camber, I've put about 10k miles on it so far and don't have any tire wear issues at all. Toe is a tire killer not camber, and yes in the rear I have the factory recommended toe angle and works great, the straighter the better


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## S WORD (Jul 21, 2011)

Static also no real need for camber kit. Especially to approach zero. I could use it to get beyond -3 or -4 degrees where ever adjustment stops.

I'll just second what Dan is saying that if you get it in specs it will be fine on tire wear.

Just know that alignment guys can either know a little or a lot. I have found two great shops in LA that do all the work by hand and do lowered cars regularly.
Good alignment shop/guy should work with you one on one for clearances, angles, driving style, and balancing anything they see (rubbing...)

Shops I go to even require I sit in the car to do alignment and balancing.
So a guy that puts you in spec and sends you on your way may not be ideal if you done anything outside of basic changes (large offset changes, slammed,...)

I do however rock camber plates in front. :thumbup: on those for saving my fenders.


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## Tire Man (Jul 10, 2017)

*Camber*



brunoxmatoss said:


> Again, camber does not make tires wear faster. It only effects How tires wear. (uneven).
> Toe will make your tires wear faster and feather. (drive like ****)
> 
> Camber kits aren't necessary for these cars.


Sorry. Camber on the rear axle of any front wheel drive car will accelerate wear. Camber will cause the contact patch to become conical in shape, with the inside shoulder contact being longer than the outside. This means that the inside loaded radius is smaller than the outside. Revolutions per mile are based on the loaded and not static radius of a tire. Therefore, the outside shoulder will need to complete fewer revolutions per mile than the inside shoulder which is impossible. The result is that the inside shoulder (really almost all of the way across the tire towards the outside shoulder) will need to decelerate as it enters the contact area, and then accelerate as it exits to match the actual rotational speed of the tread surface. Both the entry and exit will result in scrub which will greatly accelerate tire wear. 

The effect is similar to rolling a Styrofoam coffee cup. It will always turn because the smaller end needs more rotations to cover the distance than the larger end. (It is this effect that allows a motorcycle to turn by leaning.)

As well, depending on tread design, it could also result in cupping. This is because tire design uses non-uniform tread block sizes to reduce harmonics. (Take a look at the shoulder blocks on any tire and you will see this.) Smaller shoulder blocks will have less scrub as the "snap" out of the contact patch, while longer blocks will try to grip longer as they accelerate, resulting in higher scrub. Over time, this will result in cupping on the shoulder.


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