# what am i doing wrong?



## Willb6a4 (Jul 5, 2014)

I was testing my airlift 3p kit for leaks by manually filling it and all the air was escaping from the water trap drain. Everything is connected as the instructions said so i just dont get it. Its the standard water trap not SMC. Thanks


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Willb6a4 said:


> I was testing my airlift 3p kit for leaks by manually filling it and all the air was escaping from the water trap drain. Everything is connected as the instructions said so i just dont get it. Its the standard water trap not SMC. Thanks


The water trap that came in your 3P kit? What orientation is the water installed in? Which way is the arrow on the water facing (from the air tank to the manifold)?


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## Willb6a4 (Jul 5, 2014)

the arrow is facing the manifold like the instructions say. I just disconnected the hose from the tank to manifold and the air wasn't seeping through the trap. So does the manifold need to be wired and have power for me to completely test the system


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Willb6a4 said:


> the arrow is facing the manifold like the instructions say. I just disconnected the hose from the tank to manifold and the air wasn't seeping through the trap. So does the manifold need to be wired and have power for me to completely test the system


With the air tank pressurized, air should flow thru the water trap, check it for blockage. If you want to leak test lines from the manifold to the bags then yes it needs to be power up. Can you post pictures of your setup?


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## Willb6a4 (Jul 5, 2014)

My setup is not installed in my car yet. I just want to test the tank for leaks, and even putting the littlest amount of air into it, it comes out the water trap when the tank to manifold hose is connected. When i disconnected that hose from the manifold the air was being released at that end like it should be and the water trap seemed to be holding pressure. That is why i assumed maybe the manifold needs to be on to open the valve so the pressure can build up. I have a 2nd trap i purchased, and it does the exact same thing so it must be some simple mistake i'm making.


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Is it a PTC (Push-to-connect) fitting? If so how far are you really pushing it in? It should "click" twice, once when the tubing passes the retention teeth, the second time when it passes through the o-ring and actually seals. Give it a good hard push in there :thumbup:


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## Willb6a4 (Jul 5, 2014)

Yes they are PTC and
are fully seated in the connection. Im so stumped on what the actual problem is


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## Willb6a4 (Jul 5, 2014)

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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Willb6a4 said:


> I all the air was escaping from the water trap drain.


So your issue is that it's leaking thru the water trap drain? So is this the stock water trap supplied in the Airlift kit? Like the one below?



This water trap is self opening/closing can't remember at was pressure that happens. If it's not closing then unscrew the bowl and check if there isn't a piece of teflon tape from the installation preventing it from closing.

FYI the Viair check valve can be removed and the S.S. leader hose screwed directly into your SMC check valve.


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## Willb6a4 (Jul 5, 2014)

Yes that is the water trap i have. I played with the nozzle below and seemed to have it fixed. I guess ill see how it holds up. Probably going to get the smc trap.


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## Willb6a4 (Jul 5, 2014)

Seems like when ur just starting to fill it is when it leaks but once the pressure builds up enough it stops leaking..


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

That how it's suppose to work, when pressure is bled from the air tank the water trap drain open and drains the bowl. The water trap drain will close when a certain pressure is reached, as you describe. :thumbup:


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## Willb6a4 (Jul 5, 2014)

Ok thanks, that problem seems to be solved. Now few other questions. When first installing the system, the first time the compressor powers on it will shut off right when the tank is full correct? Or do i need to set the settings first?. And when i install the bags and want to put the car back on the ground how much air should i put in the bags at first before i do calibration. Thanks


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Willb6a4 said:


> Ok thanks, that problem seems to be solved. Now few other questions. When first installing the system, the first time the compressor powers on it will shut off right when the tank is full correct? Or do i need to set the settings first?. And when i install the bags and want to put the car back on the ground how much air should i put in the bags at first before i do calibration. Thanks
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes it will shut off but I've set my tank pressure for 150 psi no need to run it high then that. To put that car back on the ground 55 psi at the front, 35 psi at the rear, then run calibration. You installing the slam or performance series?


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## Willb6a4 (Jul 5, 2014)

Im installing the air ride in my mk6 gli btw and the slam series.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

You installing the bags yourself? Post if you need further help.


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## Willb6a4 (Jul 5, 2014)

Yes i am and thanks i will do


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## Willb6a4 (Jul 5, 2014)

Ok so im running the wires through my car and i want to know which fuse box i hook up the ignition to. The one under the steering wheel or under the hood? I know it has to be a 12v power source but does it matter which fuse box i wire it into thank. Car is a 2013 Gli Gen1 6speed non autobahn 


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

It doesn't matter which one as long as it powers up with ignition switch. I wired mine to fuse box inside the car. 


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## Willb6a4 (Jul 5, 2014)

Any idea which one is good? Or do i have to test them all. Thanks


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Willb6a4 said:


> Any idea which one is good? Or do i have to test them all. Thanks
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Don't know which ones so you'll have to test them with meter or test light.


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## Willb6a4 (Jul 5, 2014)

Okay ill have to get one and so im going to be using shocks that i had from my coilovers, does that mean i have to trim the brackets on the rear bags since these shocks are shorter than stock? Thanks again for all the help!


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Willb6a4 said:


> Okay ill have to get one and so im going to be using shocks that i had from my coilovers, does that mean i have to trim the brackets on the rear bags since these shocks are shorter than stock? Thanks again for all the help!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes if the shocks are shorter you need to trim the bracket and make sure you use the shorter bolts to mount the rear bag assembly to the control arm.


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## Willb6a4 (Jul 5, 2014)

So every fuse I tested under the dash with the meter came up 12V so I don't know if I'm doing something wrong. If the fuse is the wrong can it hurt the manifold?


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Willb6a4 said:


> So every fuse I tested under the dash with the meter came up 12V so I don't know if I'm doing something wrong. If the fuse is the wrong can it hurt the manifold?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


With the ignition off? Leave the ignition off test and find one that has no power, turn ignition switch on and if it has power that the one your looking for. Constant power won't hurt the manifold but it will drain your battery and maybe short a cell. Happen to me on my Passat had to put a new battery in it with less then 20,000km.


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## Willb6a4 (Jul 5, 2014)

Yes and i just plug it in and it works but the system stays on while car is off


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Willb6a4 said:


> Yes and i just plug it in and it works but the system stays on while car is off
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


So when you tested the fuses was the ignition on or off?
Leave the ignition off test and find one that has no power, turn ignition switch on and if it has power that the one your looking for. Constant power won't hurt the manifold but it will drain your battery and maybe short a cell. Happen to me on my Passat had to put a new battery in it with less then 20,000km.


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## Willb6a4 (Jul 5, 2014)

Ya i tested them with the car off and they all read the same 12v snd i ran the meter while cranking and they all stayed 12


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Willb6a4 said:


> Ya i tested them with the car off and they all read the same 12v snd i ran the meter while cranking and they all stayed 12
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


So test the ones in the engine compartment so there has to be some with ignition source.


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## Willb6a4 (Jul 5, 2014)

Ya ill check. I mean with just the controller on while the car is off isnt gunna kill the battery. I dont think.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Willb6a4 said:


> Ya ill check. I mean with just the controller on while the car is off isnt gunna kill the battery. I dont think.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


No but the system will try and maintain tank pressure, all good until you get a leak and compressor comes on and off.


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## Willb6a4 (Jul 5, 2014)

Ya i gotcha 


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## Willb6a4 (Jul 5, 2014)

Stuck on where to run the passenger side air line through since there doesnt appear to be any grommets


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Willb6a4 said:


> Stuck on where to run the passenger side air line through since there doesnt appear to be any grommets
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Not sure where you're at with the trim you've pull off both side but I ran both line on the drivers side and came out the clutch pedal grommet since it's an automatic. Only issue I had was getting the plastic line over to the passenger strut. So I ran it to the front and across the rad into the strut to avoid running a plastic line directly over top of the turbo (along firewall). If I had to do it over again, I'd install a bulkhead fitting on a L bracket on each side of the engine on the firewall, run plastic line into the driver side bulkhead, run hardline across the hot spot into the passenger side bulkhead then transition back to plastic to the strut.


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## Willb6a4 (Jul 5, 2014)

All installed and good to go thanks for all the help!


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Glad to hear that and your welcome. Be sure to post up some pictures of it aired out!


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## Willb6a4 (Jul 5, 2014)

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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Looks awesome bud! Just needs some spacers to push out the wheels


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## Willb6a4 (Jul 5, 2014)

Thanks! Just need the frame notched than i can lay frame 


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## Willb6a4 (Jul 5, 2014)

Alrightly so everything is going great so far. But i know the front struts arent fully seated in place, ive read that the powdercoating might have to be sanded down, so i did that and still no luck. It looks like there is still about an inch left of travel. Any ideas? Thanks


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## GintyFab (Jun 30, 2016)

take a picture of the strut in the spindle. also, did you use a spindle spreader while installing the strut? which struts do you have? xl's or performance? The performance struts you don't need to remove the powder.


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## Willb6a4 (Jul 5, 2014)

I dont have a picture right now. But i have the slam series and yes i did use the spreader tool. And it looks like there is an inch left on the strut to go down cause there is that indentation on the strut where it look like it is supposed to slide down to.


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## GintyFab (Jun 30, 2016)

you will know when they are all the way seated by looking at the bottom of the spindle, there is a ledge that the strut bottoms out on. 
one trick is put a jack under the lower control arm and (while having the spindle spreader still opening the spindle) put some air in the strut. but do it slowly, and be careful!


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## Willb6a4 (Jul 5, 2014)

Ive tried that already and didnt work, maybe i just have to keep sanding it, more?


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