# Overboosting issue, 30+ PSI! please help. Unitronic Stage 2



## 1320-20V (Sep 20, 2007)

Ok, so I am overboosting to well over 30 PSI. My 25 PSI boost gauge pegs right out at 30 psi+ and my torque phone app is calculating 34 psi! Ignoring the sketchyness of the phone reading I still have a major issue. 

I went thru today and set my wastegate tension to factory specs. When I unplug the N75 I hold exactly 5.0psi spot on. 

I have stock n75, and stock diverter valve. I have a Forge TIP, and a catless 3" turbo back and Unitronic stage 2 software. 

Why am I over boosting like crazy? I'm making soo much boost it slips the clutch!









What should I be looking for? How can I troubleshoot this issue? This is super dangerous for the motor. I am going to run with the N75 unplugged to keep 5 psi untill i can get this sorted out. 

Thank you.


----------



## Rac_337 (Sep 24, 2004)

vac leak maybe 

pressure test the charge system


----------



## Weehe (Apr 2, 2010)

My guess is a bad N75 or MAP sensor if it is reading lower than it actually is producing. I have to say I am shocked you boosted that much and didn't bend a rod already, hope it is fine.


----------



## 1320-20V (Sep 20, 2007)

How do i go about methodically eliminating suspects and testing the system?


----------



## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

Inspect/Replace vacum hose to wastegate and from charge pipe to N75. 
Your problem should be there. 
Also, pressure (bike pump is enough) the vacum hose to wastegate, to see if it moves (opens wastegate). 

EDit: just read the post correctly, after the reply after mine. 
Yes, if it boost that little with N75 unplugged, it could be the software, or the N75 being busted.


----------



## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

OP -- did you say boost is managed when the N75 is unplugged electrically? If so, your issue isn't mechanical. It's your software.


----------



## 1320-20V (Sep 20, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> OP -- did you say boost is managed when the N75 is unplugged electrically? If so, your issue isn't mechanical. It's your software.


 I most certainly DID say that, and for that very reason. Thank you for reading my post completely! 

I hold 5 psi like a death grip with the N75 unplugged. 

I speculate that my problem can only be one of three things. 

1. The N75 is bad and gets stuck closed when it sees any sort of square wave duty cycle at all. 

2. My diverter valve has a problem with the vacuum hose, or is stuck closed. 

3. My brand new Unitronic stage 2 software sucks. 

Believe it or not i searched before posting this tread, and I read your frankenturbo overboost thread completely before posting. However, I do feel like with a properly set wastegate, which i have, a functioning N75 should allow me to regulate 18 psi with no problems.


----------



## BlueSleeper (Nov 9, 2002)

I vote for getting a better clutch


----------



## Yosh_Cupra (Jun 28, 2008)

1320-20V said:


> I most certainly DID say that, and for that very reason. Thank you for reading my post completely!
> 
> I hold 5 psi like a death grip with the N75 unplugged.
> 
> ...


 Have you tried logging a support ticket with: [email protected]


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

How about pressure testing the system? A leak in the wastegate actuator signal hose (coming from the N75) would definitely make you overboost. I'm not saying it's not software related but there are mechanical possibilities as well (a leaky hose to the actuator would still allow 5 psi with N75 unplugged).


----------



## 1320-20V (Sep 20, 2007)

I am all for anything that will solve this problem or shed light on it. Is there a DIY for pressure testing the system? I would gladly follow it and post my findings here tonight.


----------



## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

FAQ on this Forum


----------



## 1320-20V (Sep 20, 2007)

I do not have any of the tools required to do the pressure test.









I replaced the N75 today and the DV with different used stock parts my friend had lying around. No difference whatsoever, except that I have developed an incredible hatred of the stock hose clamps. Those MFers are impossible to get off. 

Thoughts? Help? At this point I have no recourse. I dont even know of any places around me I could bring it to and be like "please make this work" 

I am near Albany.


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

I have loaner leak testers that let members of the TT section of the forum use to fix and diagnose their problems. They have built in gauge and regulator to make testing easy. All you have to do is cover freight, so let me know. :beer:


----------



## 1320-20V (Sep 20, 2007)

So, I found something!









This hose is ripped UNDER where the little rubber band holds it next to another line. However I am not sure what these lines are for, and if they could be causing my overboosting issue? They are on the divers side of the engine bay, you can see my forge TIP in the background for a spatial reference. 

What do these hoses do? Can they be causing my overboosting issue? 










If possible I would like to simplify the ridiculous hose setup, and maybe replace them with hoses that are of higher quality.


----------



## Neezy13 (Jun 1, 2011)

That looks like the crankcase breather hose for the pcv system. That won't cause overboosting.


----------



## 1320-20V (Sep 20, 2007)

I am not sure what this hose is or what it does to be honest. It runs into the abyss of hoses and stuff under the manifold. 

How does the N249 system work? At this point i am almost positive the DV is not opening at all. Does the DV work on boost pressure or a vacuum signal? How does the N249 system work if you eliminate the valve under the manifold? I have seen in the cleaning up the engine bay thread that some people delete the solenoid completely? 

Can a huge PCV leak prevent the DV from opening?


----------



## Neezy13 (Jun 1, 2011)

That's definitely the breather hose for the pcv system. That won't cause problems with the dv, it may just act like a small vacuum leak. The N249 allows the computer to control the dv by opening and pulling vacuum on it when the computer tells it to. If you bypass it, you run the dv directly off of manifold pressure, so that the natural vacuum created by the manifold when you let off of the accelerator will open the dv. This will be quicker acting because its not relying on the computer to turn on the valve. Boost keeps the dv closed and vacuum opens the dv.


----------



## 1320-20V (Sep 20, 2007)

Perhaps I am confused about this system. I know the N75 controls the waste-gate, which controls the shaft speed of the turbo. 

I was under the impression that the DV was regulating the pressure-flow relationship of the compressor wheel to keep the boost pressure equal to the pressure demanded by the software, and read by the MAP sensor. For example I think the Unitronic Stage 2 software is going to request 18 psi from the map sensor. As I see it, when the MAP reaches 18 psi, the N249 will release some vacuum to the DV which will recirculate the excess pressure back to the intake to maintain that 18 psi. 

Something about my N249 system is not allowing the DV to open at all. I need to find that issue. Please correct me if any of my assumptions are incorrect. 

For example I am not sure if the target for the N75 valve is also MAP sensor based? When I reach 18psi, I would assume i would want to crack the wastegate to keep the shaft speed in the highest efficiency region, but I have no idea how the computer thinks about this and makes decisions. I also dont know how the computer chooses to slow down the shaft speed with the N75, or just bleed off more pressure from the wheel and put it back in the intake.


----------



## Neezy13 (Jun 1, 2011)

The map sensor and n75 control boost levels. The n249 and dv evacuate the system of boost pressure when the throttle plate is closed, this is to prevent compressor surge. Basically, if the boost pressure has nowhere to go when the throttle closes, its going to push back the opposite way on the compressor wheel causing compressor surge, which is bad for the turbo. 

*Edit: If your dv isn't opening, you'll have bad surging when you let off the throttle. Your overboosting is likely because the n75 isn't working right or there is torn hose between the n75 and wastegate, or because of a software issue.


----------



## Neezy13 (Jun 1, 2011)

Here is a good explanation of how the n75 controls boost levels: 

http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=166648


----------



## 1320-20V (Sep 20, 2007)

There has been several mentions of "software issues" in this thread, which is quite unsettling. I just paid 600 dollars for this ECU flash and it had damn well better be flawless. Are there know software issues with the Unitronic stage2? From what I have read this is THE software to be running on a AWP 1.8t.


----------



## Neezy13 (Jun 1, 2011)

I would make sure all hardware is 100% correct before blaming software. Remember that running the higher boost is placing more stress on system components that were designed to run at half of those boost levels. Any hardware that was on the verge of breaking, will break once you get a tune. People always come up here blaming problems on software and it almost always is hardware related.


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

I'd take this issue up with unitronics support. They are very helpful and will help you figure things out. 

However, I'm leaning toward an intermittently bad n75 or perhaps a bad MAP sensor. 

The N75 determines its duty cycles based on the specified boost and the feedback from the MAP sensor on what the boost really is. 

Do you have vag com?


----------



## Neezy13 (Jun 1, 2011)

Also, a log of block 115 in vagcom comparing requested and actual boost would be helpful. I would think that if you are overboosting that much, you would go into limp mode unless the map sensor is bad and not correctly reading pressure. 

*Edit: ^^Beat me to it.


----------



## 1320-20V (Sep 20, 2007)

Neezy13 I dont know who you are but I like you!  

Firstly, I am 99.9% positive there is no issue with the software, and this is why i have not even entertained this as being the cause of my problem. I have never blamed the software for anything except putting a big grin on my face. 

I completely agree with all of your conclusions Neezy, but when i get under the hood, and start looking at things, replacing the DV and the N75, nothing fixes the problem which is super frustrating. Aside from my gaping hole in the PCV hose, i cannot SEE anything wrong with the vacuum lines. However as we all know it is not easy to actually see most of the lines in the system, even though i just replaced my TIP with a forge one. 

I guess i will once again have to get under the car, and replace all the vacuum lines associated with the stupid N75 valve. FML. 

What sizes are the factory vacuum hoses? I will have to stock up on vacuum hose and clamps before I start this project. 

Am i better off leaving all the factory things in tact, or should I go and eliminate everything according to this thread: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ng-up-Engine-bay...Removing-SAI-N249-PCV-EVAP


----------



## Neezy13 (Jun 1, 2011)

Most of the vacuum lines are 3 or 5 mm but I think the n75 are 7mm (I could be wrong here). As far as doing the deletes, it probably won't help you with this issue, but it will simplify the jumble of hoses and make it easier to work on the vacuum system in the future because you will know exactly how you routed everything. Also take into consideration emissions regulations in your area. If there is a visual check, you probably won't pass. Also you may need to have some of that stuff deleted in your tune to eliminate cels for missing emissions stuff.


----------



## forcefedjetta (Aug 14, 2003)

Is your turbo stock?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

1320-20V said:


> Neezy13 I dont know who you are but I like you!
> 
> Firstly, I am 99.9% positive there is no issue with the software, and this is why i have not even entertained this as being the cause of my problem. I have never blamed the software for anything except putting a big grin on my face.
> 
> ...


 You ignored our question.

Do you have vag com?


----------



## 1320-20V (Sep 20, 2007)

My apologies. I do not have VAG-COM. I am working on finding someone local to me who does have it.


----------



## 1320-20V (Sep 20, 2007)

So I fixed that broken hose tonight and as predicted the problem persists. 

I tried to log the MAP sensor tonight using a friends Vag-com. I was able to see something called "absolute pressure" i read 980mbar when off, which is to be expected, but the value never reached 1340mbar as i would expect to have seen. The number went up or down a little but never accuratley reflected the values i would expect. I was running with the N75 unplugged and boosting a rock solid 5 psi, or 1300mbar. 

Is the "absolute pressure" log I was looking at my map sensor or something else?


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Your plan of attack should be to fix all the mechanical issues first: 
-pressure test (visual test does not reveal the majority of leaks except for gaping holes) 
-make sure that you're getting proper operation from your N75, N249, and map sensor (the fact that you're allowed to boost 30 psi without limp mode suggests n249 malfunction) 

When all that is taken care off, you can start looking into software issues. However, if you're not addressing the possible mechanical issues first, you're going to be chasing your tail later.


----------



## 1320-20V (Sep 20, 2007)

To be honest i feel like i have only addressed mechanical issues, I have never questioned the software once. I spent every night for the last week in my engine bay which is hot as the sun. I don't have Vag com, a garage or compressor so it is going to be quite an undertaking for me to pressure test the system. 

What are your thoughts on the "absolute air pressure" block? Is this the MAP sensor? 

What is limp mode triggered by? How is it that I can boost 30+ psi without triggering it. I am not the original owner of the car, perhaps the previous owner did a diode mod or something? 

Is the MAP sensor the input to the computer that triggers The 249, N75, and limp mode? Should my absolute pressure block read 1300mbar is I would expect? I unplugged the MAP last night, and the car runs like ASS and an unplugged MAP triggers the N75 to be shut off and I hold the 5 psi wastegate pressure. What are your thoughts on this? 

Also my boost is never flat, always hump-shaped. no matter what, if my N75 is plugged in my car is trying for max boost no matter what. Strangely my boost tapers off quickly in second gear, spiking to 25ish and then tapers quickly down to 12ish psi. In third gear or higher, even at the same rpm and vehicle speed it is boost city and im at 30 or more.


----------



## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

You HAVE to test some stuff, if you don't want to just spend money. 
So, you don't have a garage, nor a compressor but you do have to get one. Get a friend, get someone, go down to a shop and do it! 
Hell, I've even done it once on the gasoline pump! Just have the tire nipple connector on the pressure gadget!


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

1320-20V said:


> I don't have Vag com, a garage or compressor so it is going to be quite an undertaking for me to pressure test the system.
> 
> What are your thoughts on the "absolute air pressure" block? Is this the MAP sensor?
> 
> What is limp mode triggered by? How is it that I can boost 30+ psi without triggering it. I am not the original owner of the car, perhaps the previous owner did a diode mod or something?


 There are ways around not having compressed air and a garage. You could buy a good bike hand pump or one of those small air tanks that could be filled at any gas station (I already offered to send you one of my loaner testers if you can't build your own). 

"Absolute air pressure" block that is recorded in VCDS is taking its reading from the "MAP" sensor. Technically, not really a MAP sensor (manifold absolute sensor) because it is located outside of manifold and really is an Absolute Pressure sensor. 

Limp mode is triggered by the ECU to prevent a potentially dangerous situation and preserve the motor. Several things, including overboost (preset pressure ceiling exceeded), can cause limp mode. Usually the limp mode is executed through the N249 that simply bypass/bleeds pressure to limit the system at around 5 psi. 

To boost 30 psi without triggering limp, a few conditions would have to be met. One could be fooled (clamped pressure sensor aka diode mode) or faulty pressure sensor. Another cause could be a malfunction of the N249 which would make it not capable of properly executing the limp mode. 



1320-20V said:


> Is the MAP sensor the input to the computer that triggers The 249, N75, and limp mode? Should my absolute pressure block read 1300mbar is I would expect? I unplugged the MAP last night, and the car runs like ASS and an unplugged MAP triggers the N75 to be shut off and I hold the 5 psi wastegate pressure. What are your thoughts on this?
> 
> Also my boost is never flat, always hump-shaped. no matter what, if my N75 is plugged in my car is trying for max boost no matter what. Strangely my boost tapers off quickly in second gear, spiking to 25ish and then tapers quickly down to 12ish psi. In third gear or higher, even at the same rpm and vehicle speed it is boost city and im at 30 or more.


 The "MAP" is one of the inputs used by the ECU to determine a condition that warrant limp mode but there are other ones. The N249 main function is to controll system pressure through the compressor bypass valve (BOV), it does so for various reasons based on ECU command (limp is one of them). The N75 takes care of the boost profile by bleeding some pressure to the actuator to open the wastegate flap. With the "MAP" unplugged the car should run like crap because the ECU has no way to tell pressure in the system. Your boost profile (humped or flat) is a factor of two things. Primarily, it is tailored by the N75 duty cycle curve written in the software that you run and each tuner have their own philosophy on how aggressive/flat this should be. The second factor is the size of your stock turbo, even if N75 duty cycle was maxed out throughout the curve, you'd still see decent taper as the revs go up because the turbo runs out of breath.


----------



## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

groggory said:


> I'd take this issue up with unitronics support. They are very helpful and will help you figure things out.
> 
> However, I'm leaning toward an intermittently bad n75 or perhaps a bad MAP sensor.
> 
> ...


 The OP tested with a different N75 and the problem persisted. When ECU-control is disconnected, the problem goes away. So the only remaining hardware possibility would be that MAP sensor, as groggory suggests. But this strikes me as a long-shot. I still think this is simply a compatibility issue between software and hardware. I'd bet you've got the wrong file loaded on the ECU.


----------



## 1320-20V (Sep 20, 2007)

My Unitronic flash report says stage 2, and this ecu 

0007 | 1037367518


----------



## 1320-20V (Sep 20, 2007)

It was stated earlier in this thread that if I my N249 valve was indeed faulty, i should see a sharp increase in pressure when i close the throttle plate correct? I do not see this happening. What does this imply? 

Also, with the N75 unpluged i will always run 5 psi, which is .3 bar. I see my local pressure at 980mbar, so i should see 1324 on the sensor, and I DO NOT. Am i looking at the wrong sensor or is it broken?


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

1320-20V said:


> Also, with the N75 unpluged i will always run 5 psi, which is .3 bar. I see my local pressure at 980mbar, so i should see 1324 on the sensor, and I DO NOT. Am i looking at the wrong sensor or is it broken?


 Where did 1324 come from? Did you get a hold of a vag com?


----------



## 1320-20V (Sep 20, 2007)

My friend has some ebay VAG-com cable, it works, but it will not look at any blocks over 27. There is a block, I forget which number but it is called "absolute pressure". With the car off it reads 980mbar, which is standard atmospheric pressure. If i run 5 psi that is and additional 300mbar, i I would expect to see around 1300mbar in this block. I drove around and the values fluctuate usually going lower but never over 1000 and certainly not 1300. This is why i suspect my MAP sensor may be bad. 

However, the car does detect the presence of the sensor, because when I unplug the sensor, the car runs like crap. However im not sure that this means the sensor is really working. 

Edit: 980+324= 1304mbar


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Sounds like replacing the map may be a good next atep


----------



## 1320-20V (Sep 20, 2007)

New MAP will be here today. Also I emailed Unitronic over 24 hours ago, and no response. Awesome.


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

1320-20V said:


> New MAP will be here today. Also I emailed Unitronic over 24 hours ago, and no response. Awesome.


 https://www.unitronic-chipped.com/technical-support 

You opened a ticket?


----------



## 1320-20V (Sep 20, 2007)

i emailed [email protected]. and got nothing.  

Edit: changed to correct email address


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

1320-20V said:


> i emailed [email protected]. and got nothing.


 Weird. 

Give them a call.


----------



## 1320-20V (Sep 20, 2007)

groggory said:


> https://www.unitronic-chipped.com/technical-support
> 
> You opened a ticket?


 You cant actually start a support ticket. the website is an endless loop, one you select your car it tries to sell you a chip you already bought. :banghead:


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

1320-20V said:


> You cant actually start a support ticket. the website is an endless loop, one you select your car it tries to sell you a chip you already bought. :banghead:


 Step 1: Create Profile 
Step 2: Log in 
Step 3: Choose Technical Support 
Step 4: Choose category 
Step 5: Make title 
Step 6: Fill out form 
Step 7: Click submit form 
Step 8: Check your email. It should have your ticket number. 

FYI...I just make a 'test' ticket just to make sure it was working. 

...but assuming you're having a problem with that, give them a call.


----------



## 1320-20V (Sep 20, 2007)

I just went to the dealership, where a tech was nice enough to vag-com my car for me. 

Boost Requested: 2550 all the time I am at WOT. 

I know the limit of the sensor is 2550. that's 22.7 psi. 

So basically my question is, why does my chip want to run 22.5 psi all the time? 

18psi should be about 2241mbar, so I would expect the boost demand to be around 2200, not 2500. 

Furthermore, if 2550 is the max the map can output, there is no possible way for the chip to know if the boost is 22.5 or 30 psi. 

Clearly I am not a chip programmer, but something seems wrong here to me. 

So I have a vag com cable right now, tell me how to log and I will log everything you want to look at and post it right up.


----------



## Mr_Long (Dec 9, 2003)

Neezy13 said:


> Also, a log of block 115 in vagcom comparing requested and actual boost would be helpful. I would think that if you are overboosting that much, you would go into limp mode unless the map sensor is bad and not correctly reading pressure.
> 
> *Edit: ^^Beat me to it.


 This is what they want you to log :beer:


----------



## 1320-20V (Sep 20, 2007)

Ok well I dont have a log as a file but requested= 2550 and actual is 2550. My N75 duty cycle is 95% all the time (fully closed)


----------



## dontcrossme (Jul 19, 2005)

When I got my gonzo stage 2 it would overboost and hit limp. If the N249 controls limp then I would suggest replacing it or testing with someones that works. 

If you have diode mod REMOVE IT that will prevent the N249 from putting the car in limp mode. Limp mode is not always bad. Its a way of finding out something is wrong if your not paying attention. 

Not sure how you can get 30psi on stock dv as mine wouldnt hold over 12 without the diaphram blowing open. 

I replaced the DV with a forge 007 and replaced all the vacume lines going to / from n249. 

In the end to fix most of my problems I had to install a MBC in line with the N75. So when it wants to overboost the MBC bleeds the wastegate and lets it open at the level I set. Mine is capped at 18-20psi and usually sits there till redline.


----------



## 1320-20V (Sep 20, 2007)

Installed manual boost controller today, and set it to hold 18 psi in third gear. Holds 18 for a while and then tapers down over 4000 rpm. 

I am so incredibly dissapointed in this chip and Unitronic. They never even responded to my email.


----------



## dontcrossme (Jul 19, 2005)

Do you hear any loud hissing on the passenger side when boosting? 

If not I suggest testing with someones Piston/'Valve DV or APR R1 as i hear they can hold up too. I have the TT DV and it didnt last too long before it started collapsing. Its just rubber.


----------



## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

Have you tested for leaks? Boost leak test? 
It's way better than throwing nonsense Money at the car.


----------



## Yosh_Cupra (Jun 28, 2008)

1320-20V said:


> i emailed [email protected]. and got nothing.


 Incorrect e-mail addy...Will go to a company that does PLCs... 
[email protected]


----------



## 1320-20V (Sep 20, 2007)

Can i get anyone running Unitronic stage 2 to chime in and tell me what their requested boost is at WOT with vag com?


----------



## 1320-20V (Sep 20, 2007)

Yosh_Cupra said:


> Incorrect e-mail addy...Will go to a company that does PLCs...
> [email protected]


 Just to be clear, I did email my problems and request for help to the correct email address at 1:36PM Thursday of last week. It is now Monday and i have not heard a word form unitronic from my email.


----------



## Mr_Long (Dec 9, 2003)

If they don't reply your emails then is time to call....you put some money on it and they need to give you the answers you need.


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

1320-20V said:


> Installed manual boost controller today, and set it to hold 18 psi in third gear. Holds 18 for a while and then tapers down over 4000 rpm.
> 
> I am so incredibly dissapointed in this chip and Unitronic. They never even responded to my email.


 When I said call them, what was so confusing?


----------



## 1320-20V (Sep 20, 2007)

I called them on friday late in the day. They told me to call my local dealer North american motorsports and have them log the car. I called NA, and they saids they typically dont do that, but said they would do it for me on monday. So I guess I will be there at 5 after work.


----------



## Mr_Long (Dec 9, 2003)

now we are moving forward


----------



## 1320-20V (Sep 20, 2007)

i have a LOG FILE, and a working car! 

How do I post the log up here?


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

1320-20V said:


> i have a LOG FILE, and a working car!
> 
> How do I post the log up here?


 I use drop box. 

Others use google docs 

Others copy and paste it inside code blocks 

...any of those work... 

Don't post a screen cap of the log


----------



## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

The n249 controls the diverter valve. The best thing to do is bypass the n249 but leave it plugged in. The car will not throw a code this way. Then run the DV directly off the intake manifold. The DV will be more responsive this way and part throttle issue will go away. The n249 is not your problem...however if you want to bypass it here is a nice thread with pics... 

http://uk-mkvs.net/forums/t/265883.aspx 

I would also say be careful driving the car like that...you can window the block easy. I had a similar issue with overboosting to 30psi on a Unitronic tune and never got the issue resolved so I had to run a mbc. It would never kick the car into limp mode either. I run a hybrid turbo which is a different animal, however the unitronic tune was requesting max boost right out of the gate which would just cause the turbo to overshoot the boost. Requesting max boost out of the gate will get the n75 working fast but the tune should build up a little to max boost, not request max boost from the jump..


----------

