# Timing Belt Replacement methods..



## mgyver74 (Dec 10, 2003)

Ok I am about to do a timing belt for a friend with a 92 Golf 8v.
From all the reading, I think the procedure is as follows.
1) Remove valve cover and ancillary stuff.
2) Remove V belts
3) Open Plug in tranny so I can see timing marks
4) Rotate engine by hand so that the lobes on the #1 cylinder are pointing both up and the mark in the flywheel is showing to ensure I am at TDC
5) Remove belt covers and other stuff in the way
6) Loosen the belt tensioner
7) Remove old belt
8) Make sure that the little mark on the Cam Gear is even with the front edge of the head and that both lobes on the #1 cylinder are pointing up
9) Make sure that the Intermediate shaft is lined up with crank pully and that the TDC Mark on the flywheel is still aligned
10) Pop off the distributer cap and ensure that the Spinny thing is still pointing at #1 cylinder
11) Install new belt
12) AGAIN! Make sure the marks are all aligned
13) tension belt so that it can barely be twisted 90 degrees by hand
14) Put it all back together again
15) Check ign timing

Did I forget anything?


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Timing Belt Replacement methods.. (mgyver74)*

Just a couple of things to note.
- There is no real need to pull the valve cover off if it is not leaking. You can see the mark on the cam gear when you pull off the upper Timing belt cover to make sure that you are at TDC and on the compression stroke for #1. You will also know because the rotor in the dizzy will be pointing to #1 wire.
- when you get to TDC on compression stroke, just check all marks and rotor first before taking anythign apart to familiarize yourself. ...especially the intermediate shaft (IS) since that one is weird to line up. Also, it is not totally uncommon for the mark to not be lined up on the IS if the belt was changed before. As long as the dist was timed correctly, everything will be fine.
- It is always good to turn the motor over a couple of times and then recheck the tension of the belt after you tension it the first time.
- you will also need to take the 4 allens out of the lower crank belt pulley to be able to slip the belt off the crank cog but you probably already knew that or would have figured it out. Don't mess with the crank Center bolt unless you know what the repercussions are








Shawn


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## mgyver74 (Dec 10, 2003)

*Re: Timing Belt Replacement methods.. (sdezego)*

Yeah I figured I'd have to remove the 4 allens on the pully...I have heard to leave the center crank bolt alone..but I don't know exactly why...the only thing I can think of is that it's a stretch type bolt like the head bolts and would need to be replaced.....
Is there more bad stuff associated with that bolt??


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## onewiper (Aug 29, 2002)

Just that you need superman to help you remove it.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Timing Belt Replacement methods.. (mgyver74)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mgyver74* »_Yeah I figured I'd have to remove the 4 allens on the pully...I have heard to leave the center crank bolt alone..but I don't know exactly why...the only thing I can think of is that it's a stretch type bolt like the head bolts and would need to be replaced.....
Is there more bad stuff associated with that bolt??

Bingo 
...and the fact that it is next to impossible to torque w/o a flywheel lock or non-conventional means... BTW: it actually depends on what 8V motor you have. If you have the 12 pt crank bolt it is a stretch type. If it is a 6 pt then it is a non-stretch type.







S


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## machschnelGTI (Jun 28, 2004)

*Re: Timing Belt Replacement methods.. (sdezego)*

On both 8Vs that I've owned, the bottom of the lower timing cover has been cut out so removal of the pulley was not necessary to take the cover off....maybe you'll get lucky. A trick I use so that you don't screw up the timing marks, because VW timing marks are a pain in the arse compared to every other car, is this: Before you remove the old belt, get a paint pen or a bottle of white touch up paint and mark everything. I put three lines on the cam pulley, 2 on the intermediate shaft, and one on the crank pulley. When marking everything, put marks on the pulley and the corresponding teeth on the belt. Then remove the belt, and set it next to the new one so that you can transfer the lines to the new belt in the same spots that they are on the old belt. Now it doesn't matter if the engine is at top dead center or not, all you've got to do is put the belt on so that the marks on the belt line up with the marks on the pulleys.


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