# NGK BKR8EIX (Iridiums): Review on VRT



## slcturbo (Apr 19, 2010)

Figured I would pass this along. I was having the typical misfire issues at times on my VRT at ~20psi in the high rpm range ~6-7k. I had been running NGK BKRE7's gapped at .022 on a stock coilpack -age unknown.

Figured I would try the BKR8EIX which is their Iridium plug. They are pricey($6-$7 each), but cheaper than a new coilpack or MSD swap. These were recommended by the tech at NGK I spoke to on the phone.

Gapped them to .022 and ran them at the track yesterday and they completely cured the misfiring. Apparently the Iridiums require less voltage to fire. $40 to fix a misfire issue? Sold

Might be worth a try if you are having issues.:thumbup:


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## BoostedDubVR6T420 (Dec 4, 2009)

Tell us in a week if they are still running well. I have heard good and bad about Iridium's, but I would like to see how long they take to foul and start misfiring.


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## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

i'd never recommend an Iridium plug for a turbo car. All i've ever heard is that the tips fail, and break off.

:beer:


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## slcturbo (Apr 19, 2010)

TBT-Syncro said:


> i'd never recommend an Iridium plug for a turbo car. All i've ever heard is that the tips fail, and break off.
> 
> :beer:



Really? Never heard this before. There are a couple guys running them on here with good success. So far so good on my car.

I'll keep you posted on the failing:thumbup:

This plug seems to be really popular w/ the turbo Nissan guys. 240 sx, SR20DET's, and GT-R's. I didn't see any complaints on those forums although I didn't spend a ton of time searching.

http://forums.nicoclub.com/what-spark-plugs-should-i-use-for-my-sr20-det-t349768.html


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## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

It may have been one of those things that used to be true, but no longer is. I just remember several friends and builders warning me about them in the past.


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## slcturbo (Apr 19, 2010)

TBT-Syncro said:


> It may have been one of those things that used to be true, but no longer is. I just remember several friends and builders warning me about them in the past.


Good advice. Fingers crossed:thumbup:


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## rod_bender (Apr 14, 2007)

Oem plugs in Evos are iridium.


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## BLSport (Dec 24, 2005)

Glad these plugs worked out for you, I thought they might do the trick. :thumbup:


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## BLSport (Dec 24, 2005)

BTW, I see from your sig that you managed to dip into the 11.4's... nice! :beer:


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## slcturbo (Apr 19, 2010)

BLSport said:


> BTW, I see from your sig that you managed to dip into the 11.4's... nice! :beer:


Thanks man. :beer:


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## toy_vw (Feb 11, 2006)

i went into the dealership for oem plugs for my 1.8t a4 and they gave me bkr6eix.....hum...so i run them in my 16vt also...moving up to 8's this summer


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## IntakeManifold (Jul 3, 2002)

I run NGK EIX plugs in everything, 

supercharged bmw's, 12 & 24v vr6's, 2.0 8v's.

They all run flat-out awesome. cold start drivability is much improved.

the factory plugs in a 3.2 24v are iridium

if you can find a parts supplier to hook you up, you can get the NGK eix plugs for 6$ a piece.


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## slcturbo (Apr 19, 2010)

IntakeManifold said:


> I run NGK EIX plugs in everything,
> 
> supercharged bmw's, 12 & 24v vr6's, 2.0 8v's.
> 
> ...


Awesome. Yeah I had an intermittent start/stall or stumble right after start once in awhile w/ the NGKBKR7E's. Not a big deal, but I haven't noticed it with the 8EIX's thusfar.

Rockauto.com price is $6.98. I got them from Worldpac for wholesale price which was just over $6/each. With what the setup costs $40 is nothing.


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## Padillamk4 (Sep 13, 2010)

Sub'd.......:thumbup: Might give these a try


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## Padillamk4 (Sep 13, 2010)

How these holding up slc?


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## slcturbo (Apr 19, 2010)

I don't drive the car much with the cold weather/snow so I have not put many miles on with the plugs. Maybe a few hundred. Car drove fine though and like I said, no misfire up top at 20psi.

I really think they are a no brainer on an FI setup running stock ignition. $40 to be able to run more boost without misfiring? It's not even $40 either. Deduct what the bkr7e's cost. So what are we talking $25-$30 more?

Do it. Just be careful setting the gap. These are hard to bend so you need patience and a good plug gap tool.:thumbup:


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## enginenerd (Oct 20, 2010)

I've been using the denso ik24 and ik27 iridiums in turbo stuff even over 30psi for ages. They work awesome. A single set will long outlive the typical race engine lol- cheapest part of the whole equation.


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## GinsterMan98 (May 19, 2008)

Hey man, congrats on the new best. Glad your setup is working well for you and keep the numbers falling.:thumbup:


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## slcturbo (Apr 19, 2010)

GinsterMan98 said:


> Hey man, congrats on the new best. Glad your setup is working well for you and keep the numbers falling.:thumbup:


You too man.

That time of yours is no joke for a 30# setup. Think my best was 11.8xx. This setups got 11.2-11.3's in it so hope to get that in the Spring.

Where you going from here? My advice. Stay where you're at or go all in. You're getting close to roll bar limit so unless you're putting one in....


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## weeblebiker (Apr 3, 2003)

had the same issue with my high comp 16vt and copper plugs misfiring. swapped in some ngk iridiums, coldest heat range they make and didn't have any misfire issues after that. 

it has to do with the electrode shape/diameter and pressure for voltage needed for breakdown across the gap. two ways to increase pressure and initiate break down: increase voltage or increase electrical stress on the electrode by reducing the electrode surface area and maiking it pointy. the problem is little pointy electrodes tend to have the pointy blow off

Pachen's law and similarity theory iirc


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## Padillamk4 (Sep 13, 2010)

So u get away with a colder plug hence the 8eix vs the 7iex I noticed it says do not gap they come pregapped to .032 whats the deal with that?


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## GinsterMan98 (May 19, 2008)

I am building an oem long block and going to the 42# setup next. My main worry is transmissions holding up, its all good a fun until it breaks. My setup has been very reliable. We will see how it all plays out. Got some coils so I can move up in tire size if need be. Thanks for the kind words and I will give these plugs a try. I currently run champion plugs.


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## weeblebiker (Apr 3, 2003)

Padillamk4 said:


> So u get away with a colder plug hence the 8eix vs the 7iex I noticed it says do not gap they come pregapped to .032 whats the deal with that?



cause you will fracture the electrode if you try gapping em so they say don't do it.

really don't do it cause you will fracture the electrode, really.

actually may be the cause of the reported electrode failures

I'd love a company to make a plug with a tungsten copper electrode, be the last plugs youd have to buy. if the material holds up to 300kv breakdown in a pulse trigger system it'd last forever in a motor


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## Padillamk4 (Sep 13, 2010)

wont the boost blow out the spark at that gap? slc gapped his to .022


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## slcturbo (Apr 19, 2010)

Padillamk4 said:


> wont the boost blow out the spark at that gap? slc gapped his to .022


You could try a bigger gap. I was thinking of going bigger, but don't want to mess with something that's working.

Be carefull when gapping and you wont break anything. Don't touch the center electrode is all. If you break it then just buy a new plug. $7 mistake.

I've read more than once that you can gap iridium plugs.


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## slcturbo (Apr 19, 2010)

GinsterMan98 said:


> I am building an oem long block and going to the 42# setup next. My main worry is transmissions holding up, its all good a fun until it breaks. My setup has been very reliable. We will see how it all plays out. Got some coils so I can move up in tire size if need be. Thanks for the kind words and I will give these plugs a try. I currently run champion plugs.


Awesome. You'll need 2 stage boost to really see a decent improvement in ET. What you'll gain from the 1/8th to the 1/4 you'll lose up to the 1/8th with wheelspin if you run 20psi in 1st and 2nd.

My trans has been fine. These help:

-Turn boost down on street
-Avoid wheelhop/uneven road surfaces
-Run a slick with a decent sidewall
-T4 hotside , Ptrim wheel. Guys running similar setup/times/power to mine w/ t3 hotsides and stage III wheels just seem to strip gears and kill clutches. I've broken nothing in 3 years of drag racing a turbo VW. That's gotta be a record.
-Leave a little on the table on the launch. Poly/solid everything and looking for 1.6 60's and you'll pay for it.

Good luck and keep us posted:beer:


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

in to watch have same issue with my 8v on some pretty old bkre8's


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## GinsterMan98 (May 19, 2008)

Thanks for the advice.:thumbup: I will try the plugs out when I get back home from PA.


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## pimS (Jan 7, 2009)

I'm still running the Bosch F5DP0R plugs. 

It was misfiring, but i found that the litle hose from my window spray pump had a hole in it, wich was taking a leak on my coilpack....:banghead: 

I've been running them for about 2k, but i still have some minor issues going, so i can't pinpoint exactly what is causing the problems i have. 
Getting a good fuel pump, out with the fake bosch 909 and in with the 044 

I'll post here in a while if the bosch's are still working (running 21psi max)


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## [email protected] (Aug 25, 2010)

Daskoupe said:


> in to watch have same issue with my 8v on some pretty old bkre8's


 just put the 8eix's in my car...too bad my wires were the culprit:banghead:....will give review tomorrow when the new wires come.:beer:


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## weeblebiker (Apr 3, 2003)

Padillamk4 said:


> wont the boost blow out the spark at that gap? slc gapped his to .022


 the analogy of a spark being a candle flame and the intake charge is like blowing on it is totally wrong. 

there is no more gas turbulance in the cylinder na or boosted, the gas density changes, not the turbulnce or velocity.(increasing density also increases final compression temp which is the cause of preignition and the reason you run colder plugs) 

what causes the field to not break down and form a arc across the gap is the increase in gas pressure/density/number of molicules between the 2 electrodes. 

I'm finding there are other common conceptions in fi that are just wrong, like the intake system after the turbo needs to flow higher cfm's than na. change in cfm is only controlled by cylinder size, cam size and phase, and rpm. nothing to do with charge pressure. 

oops, I'm rambling,,,,


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## slcturbo (Apr 19, 2010)

^ 
Thanks for that display of knowledge, but at the end of the day you need a smaller gap on stock ignition. The why is kinda irrelevant for our purposes. 

"Blowing spark out" never even made sense though. The valves are closed when the plug fires.


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## Padillamk4 (Sep 13, 2010)

slcturbo said:


> ^
> Thanks for that display of knowledge, but at the end of the day you need a smaller gap on stock ignition. The why is kinda irrelevant for our purposes.
> 
> "Blowing spark out" never even made sense though. The valves are closed when the plug fires.


 yea i never understood it myself its something that i was told from a somewhat reliable source i guess it was just his way of explaining it to me


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## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

slcturbo said:


> ^
> Thanks for that display of knowledge, but at the end of the day you need a smaller gap on stock ignition. The why is kinda irrelevant for our purposes.
> 
> "Blowing spark out" never even made sense though. The valves are closed when the plug fires.


 Its just a convienent and easy term to use: ) 
Electrical resistence increases as air pressure increases.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

TBT-Syncro said:


> i'd never recommend an Iridium plug for a turbo car. All i've ever heard is that the tips fail, and break off.
> 
> :beer:


 FYI many OEM FI applications run Iridium plugs in these days


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## [email protected] (Aug 25, 2010)

ok wtf... new plugs, different coil pack, new plug wires and the car is STILL misfiring/breaking up at full load! 

anyone thinking the ecu coil drivers are shot?? Gonna try regrounding the coil directly instead of where ever it goes in the harness. Then i'm gonna try swapping ecu's.


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## slcturbo (Apr 19, 2010)

KubotaPowered said:


> Its just a convienent and easy term to use: )
> Electrical resistence increases as air pressure increases.


 
I am aware.:beer:


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## enginenerd (Oct 20, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> ok wtf... new plugs, different coil pack, new plug wires and the car is STILL misfiring/breaking up at full load!
> 
> anyone thinking the ecu coil drivers are shot?? Gonna try regrounding the coil directly instead of where ever it goes in the harness. Then i'm gonna try swapping ecu's.


 It's just a low current 0-5v driver in the ecu. All the high current stuff which actually fires the coil is in the coil itself (ignitor). 

The coils do get soft / break down and get low on firing voltage especially if the gaps are run large. I would try a set of fresh coils and a .024" gap before screwing with the ecu.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

If it runs on all cyls at low load, it's definitely not an ecu problem. What coils are you using?


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## [email protected] (Aug 25, 2010)

factory 2001 vw 8v coil uses 1 coil per cylinder in one pack. (yes i'm driving an 8vT) 

used low milage coil. 
has about 50k. (last one lasted well over 150k) 
new plugs. first set i used were NGK R5671A-7 non-resistor plugs gapped at .025" had ran multiple sets of these for well over 20k miles with zero issues. Couple weeks ago the misfiring started. Now i'm running these bkr8eix at the gap they come set at .032" (have ran gaps as large as .038 with no issues). 
Brand spanking new plug wires were installed yesterday.


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## slcturbo (Apr 19, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> factory 2001 vw 8v coil uses 1 coil per cylinder in one pack. (yes i'm driving an 8vT)
> 
> used low milage coil.
> has about 50k. (last one lasted well over 150k)
> ...


 Hmm. Maybe I'll try a bigger gap on the 8eix's. Went .022 to be safe, but maybe they can handle more.


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## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

No doubt, I would of assumed you would try the stock gap & work backwards...

Long ago, the platinums would burn up in a week, na, on me.

oh well, than goodness .022 bkr7 still works for me.


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## Padillamk4 (Sep 13, 2010)

last question before i order these why are we using 8eix instead of 7iex again? 

currently using bkr7e @.024 mk4 stock compression at 7-10psi


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## slcturbo (Apr 19, 2010)

Padillamk4 said:


> last question before i order these why are we using 8eix instead of 7iex again?
> 
> currently using bkr7e @.024 mk4 stock compression at 7-10psi


I run 8's bc I run ~20psi. NGK's tech on the phone recommended 8's for my setup/boost as did most forums I checked of guys that were running this plug. 

8's were as cold as anyone recommended for a street car though.


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## slcturbo (Apr 19, 2010)

I know it's a different manufacturer(Nissan), but you'll find this as pretty much the consensus on any Nissan forum and from vendors that sell them for those cars. Similar boost/power levels to a VRT, but take it for what it's worth.It has worked for me:beer:

"BKR7EIX NGk's if you are making less than 300whp, BKR8's if you are making 300-400whp and 15-20psi of boost, BKR9's if you are running over 20psi and more than 400whp. I run 8 heat range year round and have no problem."


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## Padillamk4 (Sep 13, 2010)

Cool thanks :beer::thumbup:


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## slcturbo (Apr 19, 2010)

Padillamk4 said:


> Cool thanks :beer::thumbup:


No problem. Maybe try 7's at your boost level:beer:


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## ncsumecheng (Nov 1, 2005)

Gap them closer.....

Gapping is probably why tips fall off too. People aren't careful doing so and damage the plug upon install. The OEM Iridiums don't fail because they are already the right gap.

I get sparkplugs.com to gap mine for me before shipping. But now they offer one already from NGK at the gap I run.


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## GinsterMan98 (May 19, 2008)

Thatnks for that info.:thumbup: I will look into them.


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## GinsterMan98 (May 19, 2008)

since I am at a lower boost level then most in here so I got the 7 heat range plugs. I am going to try the at .028 and see how it goes. I will also give them a try at the track on Sat.


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## GinsterMan98 (May 19, 2008)

Well, I just got them in and took it for a spin and they work great. They were gapped at .032ish out of the box. With the BKR7E's I could not run anything larger than .024. I consider this a success. Thanks to slcturbo and everyone else who put this info and experiences out there. Oh and I am still using the stock coil.


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## slcturbo (Apr 19, 2010)

GinsterMan98 said:


> Well, I just got them in and took it for a spin and they work great. They were gapped at .032ish out of the box. With the BKR7E's I could not run anything larger than .024. I consider this a success. Thanks to slcturbo and everyone else who put this info and experiences out there. Oh and I am still using the stock coil.


You running them at .032? How much boost?


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## GinsterMan98 (May 19, 2008)

12 ish, I really don't know how accurate my Autometer gauge is.


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## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

awesome info here, thanks guys. I'm running 7's currently but haven't fully tuned out my MS for the turbo yet. Will be running up to 20psi, so might need some of this info in the future. good to know it's here. :beer:


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## GinsterMan98 (May 19, 2008)

well, I went to a local 1/8 mile track and had some misfires at the top of first. Had to work the gap down to 22 to prevent it from happening. I still think the car runs much better on these plugs than the copper cores that I had in it. Much smoother idle and better gas mileage so far.


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## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

weeblebiker said:


> cause you will fracture the electrode if you try gapping em so they say don't do it.
> 
> really don't do it cause you will fracture the electrode, really.
> 
> ...


UUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM
no
I ran them in my own car ABA turbo NGK brk8eix
Gap em down...dont be stupid....ran them in my old car for 2 years gapped them 24 with stock ign system and chip......swithched to stand alone wasted spark setup and regaped them wider to 28.....24 psi...no problems never fouled never dropped an electrode never a worry....
they are still in the car....going on 3 years now......
electrodes falling off please
they are also in a friends vrt at 25 psi..gapped at 24 stock coil pack...no worries
also in my wifes stock 2000 vr6 stock heat range..duh

read up on spark plugs folks..there is tons of info out there..you just need to look and read....
And I mean places other than here


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## slcturbo (Apr 19, 2010)

Salsa GTI said:


> UUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM
> no
> I ran them in my own car ABA turbo NGK brk8eix
> Gap em down...dont be stupid....ran them in my old car for 2 years gapped them 24 with stock ign system and chip......swithched to stand alone wasted spark setup and regaped them wider to 28.....24 psi...no problems never fouled never dropped an electrode never a worry....
> ...



:thumbup:As stated previously. Gapped mine to .022 , stock older coilpack, 20-22psi boost and no issues


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## GinsterMan98 (May 19, 2008)

Yeah, I had to gap mine down to 22, though the car runs really well on these plugs! Thanks for sharing.


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## jetdavdub (Mar 13, 2006)

I'm going to be boosting up to 25 so I'm wondering if I should get the BKR9EIX or is that overkill especially if I turn down the boost back to like say 15.?.?


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## slcturbo (Apr 19, 2010)

jetdavdub said:


> I'm going to be boosting up to 25 so I'm wondering if I should get the BKR9EIX or is that overkill especially if I turn down the boost back to like say 15.?.?


I'm no expert, but based on what I read on other forums, vendors websites, and the NGK tech I spoke with on the phone no one recommends 9's for street driven cars. They're too cold and will foul.


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## slcturbo (Apr 19, 2010)

I realize every motor, application is different but this is a rough guidline that seems to be pretty consistent. I would add that 6's would be great for stock boost levels ~6-10psi. We use those(iridiums and regular bkre6) in our stock NA and turbo volvos (~10psi) with no issues.

From specialtyZ.com. https://specialtyz.com/shop/ngk-iridium-ix-spark-plugs.html

"The *"7" heat range* is an excellent all around plug. Work great for direct stock replacement applications and modified vehicles. Great for anything under 20 psi. Works great on non-turbos. Great in cold weather applications.

The *"8"heat range* is also a great all around performer. Allows one to run higher boost levels 20+ safely, yet is hot enough for daily street use. Perfect plug for California style climates all year round. Works good with low nitrous shots too. We use this heat range in most of our tuned Z32s.

The *"9" heat range* is the cold daddy of plugs. Recommended for extreme boost pressures (28+psi). It has weak cold performance due to fouling easily in cold conditions. Recommended to be used at the race track only (road circuit\drag). The only plug to use for high boost and nitrous applications. Not recommended for daily driving."


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## jetdavdub (Mar 13, 2006)

Thx perfect answer 

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk


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## CorradoFuhrer (Mar 21, 2002)

copper conducts electricity better but also does not last long :beer:


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## PhReE (Sep 16, 2004)

For some reason my car has always hated the EIX plugs, and ran better on the E's. I usually run BKR7E's. I did have Denso IK24's in there once and it seemed to really like those, but they are pretty expensive. I am not sure if you can get 8E's but they would be a good choice too.

All of the plugs I have ran gapped at about .022-.024


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## pimS (Jan 7, 2009)

Take bosch F3CS
Had major misfiring issues on my bkr7's, then again after a while with bosch fd5por, even at 15psi.
Switched to F3Cs's when norwegian-vr6 sugested them. Not a single blip since then. 

Still On stock 96' coilpack


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## Norwegian-VR6 (Feb 6, 2002)

Bosch F3CS or even F2CS that im currenly using. kick ass from 0-30+ psi  I have only tried them up to 30 psi.
Coilpack and mk4 wires


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## PhReE (Sep 16, 2004)

Where is a good place to get the Bosch F3CS plugs?


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## pimS (Jan 7, 2009)

@ a bosch/bosch motorsport dealer


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## Norwegian-VR6 (Feb 6, 2002)

Got mine on Ebay.


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