# Official Catch Can FAQ/DIY thread



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Ok, so I think I've read about enough "what is a catch can?" threads/posts, and I figured it was time for one specific source of information about what a catch can does and how to install one on your 1.8T. 
*What a catch can does:*
-- A catch can is a container which "blow-by" from the engine passes through. Blow-by is properly known as crankcase ventilation, and is pressurized air from inside the engine that is a by-product of boost. Turbo engines are not perfectly sealed and so a tiny amount of boost gets into the "other" engine spaces, such the crank area or within the valve cover. This pressure needs to be vented and the vented air carries oil particles, moisture, and other stuff you do not want in your engine; you send the air through a catch can in order to separate the oil/moisture/particulate from the actual intake air.
-- Catch cans separate the oil/moisture/particulate from the air by forcing the heavier-than-air materials to condense and collect in a can instead of being put through your intake. VW/Audi used a PCV valve (check valve, aka hockeypuck) to deal with the blow-by, but this is not the best solution. A catch can replaces this and the PCV system entirely; the connections come from the as-mentioned areas (block breather, valve cover breather). A catch can can either connect back to the TIP or you can simply use a filter with it (venting); I argue that putting it back into the intake is more responsible, and vented catch cans are known to smell bad because of the emissions.

*Diagram (based on my type of catch can):*








*DIY*
I mounted my catch can to the battery box and ran hose to a steel elbow on one catch can inlet from the block breather; the other barbed inlet barb connects to my valve cover breather port. Many others use AN fittings, quick-connects, etc. but it ultimately comes down to how much you want to spend. 

Basic installation:
1. Remove the intake manifold (search or buy a Bentley) so you can get to the block breather elbow.
2. Remove the hose but leave the elbow in the block breather adapter
3. Remove the black kinked hose/PCV valve assembly attached to the valve cover
4. Run a hose from the block breather elbow to one catch can inlet and run hose from the valve cover port to the other.
5. Connect the catch can vent to the TIP (if using an intake set-up) or put a filter on the catch can and use a vac plug on the TIP.
--> You will need to figure out draining, where to mount the can, and connection hardware.

*Catch can where-to*









*Catch can I used and based diagram on* (bought on eBay, fully aluminum, already tapped and came with a filter):


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## 1.8t_356 (Sep 10, 2008)

*Re: Official Catch Can FAQ/DIY thread (l88m22vette)*

Already posted this in its own thread earlier today but thought it belonged here as well.
I modified a Perrin catch can to accept 19mm inlet and outlet hoses. Here are some pics before and after installation in the 1.8t powered Porsche 356A replica:
The little stainless filter is stuck to the bare aluminum with permatex liquid gasket goo and is the last line of defense against stuff like the filter foam getting to the TIP.

The brass fittings are 1/2 NPT to 3/4 hose barbs from McMaster Carr.



The can is plumbed between the outlet of the "Y" hard pipe and the TIP in my application.

Tomm



_Modified by 1.8t_356 at 10:17 PM 4-29-2009_


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## ghostinator (Aug 16, 2008)

Good deal! I welded a sheet of aluminum in my greddy catchcan to seperate both inlets, then packed copper scrubber pads around it. 
I used clear hose so i can monitor its performance and i will say that the hose from the pcv system to the can is horrible, loaded with oil and water vapors. The lines running from the can to the manifold and the TIP are spotless.


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## NOLA_VDubber (May 24, 2007)

*Re: (ghostinator)*

Great thread!
Here's a little info on connections to the crank case and valve cover:
*For the connection at the crank case-*
you can either reuse the factory peice or do what many do and run an 034 adapter. This will convert your factory outlet into a 3/4"NPT threaded port, thus letting you use any hose/fitting combo you like. You can pick one up from INA here on the tex or go straight to 034:
http://www.034motorsport.com/p...d=392








*For the connection at the valve cover-*
You can either pull off the stock hose and use the stock barb or you can remove it and tap the hole to accept a threaded fitting. Simply remove your valve cover, pull out the existing press-in fitting, tap the hole using a 1/2"NPT tap (no drilling required), clean up any metal shavings, then reinstall. Here's a pic of mine with a 1/2"NPT brass elbow to a push-lock line going to my can:









http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## NOLA_VDubber (May 24, 2007)

*Re: (NOLA_VDubber)*

Here's the build list for my can. I used 1/2"ID pushlock lines run independently from the VC and block to the can (so no tee fitting):

_Quote, originally posted by *NOLA_VDubber* »_Catch Can Info:
*VENDOR: 034 Motorsports*
-Block breather adapter - PURCHASE QTY: 1 @ $19.50
-Catch Can (ATP style) - PURCHASE QTY: 1 @ $118.00
*VENDOR: McMaster-Carr*
-90deg Brass Elbow, Push-Lock, Male, 1/2"Tube x 1/2"NPT - #91465K66 (Sold in sets of 2) - PURCHASE QTY: 1 @ $10.79
-Swivel Brass Adapter, Push-Lock, Female, 1/2"Tube x 1/2"NPT - #53485K17 (Sold in sets of 2) - PURCHASE QTY: 1 @ $8.20
-Push-Lock Hose - Black - 1/2"ID - #5633K24 (Sold by the foot) - PURCHASE QTY: 10ft @ $1.93/ft
-Reducing Nipple, Brass, 3/4"NPT x 1/2"NPT - #5485K34 - PURCHASE QTY: 1 @ $6.47
-90deg Elbow, Brass, 1/2"NPT x 1/2"NPT - #9171K24 - PURCHASE QTY: 1 @ $22.19
=$205.00 total
To save some money, you don't need to use push-lock hose and fittings, and you don't need to use brass fittings. You can also get cans for cheaper elsewhere. That brass elbow off the VC is pretty prcey as well, but it just looks so purdy
You'll need a 1/2"NPT tap to tap the valve cover to accept the nipple. You'll also need some teflon tape for the NPT fittings. The hose can be had in a bunch of different colors as well if you choose. If you prefer a larger ID hose, then find your own damn part numbers









as of now, these are the only shots i have with the can in it (if you look really close in that first shot you can see the 034 block breather adapter):



















_Modified by NOLA_VDubber at 12:57 PM 4-30-2009_


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

I have a boatload of links for doing nice braided lines w/ the ATP can. It's mainly based of [email protected]'s car or the variation that it used to be. I'll post them when I'm at home.


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## transient_analysis (Jan 28, 2003)

*Re: (screwball)*

thanks guys


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## capsaicin (Apr 1, 2007)

*Re: (NOLA_VDubber)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NOLA_VDubber* »_Great thread!
*For the connection at the valve cover-*
You can either pull off the stock hose and use the stock barb or you can remove it and tap the hole to accept a threaded fitting. Simply remove your valve cover, pull out the existing press-in fitting, tap the hole using a 1/2"NPT tap (no drilling required), clean up any metal shavings, then reinstall. Here's a pic of mine with a 1/2"NPT brass elbow to a push-lock line going to my can:


no drilling required when running a 1/2" NPT tap into the valve cover?


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

*Re: (transient_analysis)*

awesome powder coating. As soon as I get my Michi can in i'll get up pics


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## NOLA_VDubber (May 24, 2007)

*Re: (capsaicin)*


_Quote, originally posted by *capsaicin* »_
no drilling required when running a 1/2" NPT tap into the valve cover?

nope, just pull out the factory fitting and tap http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

you're the man NOLA, thanks for the update.


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## NOLA_VDubber (May 24, 2007)

*Re: (screwball)*


_Quote, originally posted by *screwball* »_you're the man NOLA, thanks for the update.






















iirc i'm pretty sure i used your guide to tapping the valve cover, so i couldn't have done it without you lol


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## fightinphilsphan (Aug 23, 2008)

*Re: (NOLA_VDubber)*

just did this to my gli as i was replacing the head...it's about time someone put this up. wish it was up about two weeks ago haha. nice write up.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (fightinphilsphan)*

Wanted to bump this, I just drained my catch can after 6 months...look at all the crap and oil that is not in the intake tract! Hooray!


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

I get that weekly, loolll


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## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

*Re: (screwball)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Perrin Performance* »_CRANK CASE VENT EDUCATION
Due to the popularity of the WRX, and its more complex crank case vent system, we will describe its systems and how to hook up the PERRIN Oil Catch Can to them. On the Subaru WRX there are 3 types of crank case vents.
1- PCV System 
2- Crank Case Vent
3- Valve Cover Vents
All three do different things at different times. First lets go over which ones do what and when, then you can determine which is the best way to hook up the PERRIN Oil Catch Can.
Terms to Understand
PCV-PCV stands for Positive Crank Case Ventilation. This is a one way valve that creates fresh air flow through the block.
Crank Case Vent-A simple port machined into the engines block exposing the internal atmosphere of the engine to the outside world. On the Subaru engines, this is located in the center, toward the rear of the block. 
Crank Case Vent Junction-The crank case vent junction is a plastic junction, joining 3 hoses together. This junction is mounted to the crank case vent on the center of the block. It provides 2 other connections, which join the PCV system, and the intake system to the crank case vent. Basically a plastic tee.
Valve Cover Vent-These are ports machined into the valve covers. Both the left and the right vent joint together and vent to the intake system.
PCV System (cruise and idle)
Lets start with this one first as this is the most confused part of the engine venting systems. PCV stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation. 100% of new cars have this type of system, and is used for keeping the EPA happy, by recycling the crank case blow-by (oil and combustion gases) back into the combustion chamber.
The PCV is a one-way valve that under intake manifold vacuum (during idle and cruise) opens, and allows air to flow through the valve. One end is connected to the intake manifold and the other is connected to the crankcase, (or valve covers on some cars). When the valve opens the manifold is sucking out the crank case blow-by. Many people think there is a lot of vacuum being applied to the block. This is not the case! This isn’t true because of the other vents on the engine. Think of the PCV as creating airflow.
There is information out there about how the PCV vacuum helps seal the rings for more/better compression. This is also not true. The PCV valve creates air flow through the block to help evacuate the blow-by. If you put a gauge on the block you will see nothing! NO VACUUM! This is a huge myth people continue to believe in. Hopefully this article can clear this up.
On the Subaru, the older WRX’s have the PCV valve screwed into the intake manifold. A hose connects this to the crank case vent junction connector. The newer cars like the STI have the PCV as part of this crank case vent junction connector. This crankcase vent junction connector joins the PCV (on either car) to the crankcase, and to another vent hose going to the turbo intake. This is another are of confusion with the WRX.
This vent hose going from the crank case junction connector to the inlet hose is another path the PCV sucks air in from. Because this is connected to the turbo inlet hose, this allows the PCV (under idle and cruise conditions) suck in fresh air, along with the crank case blow by. Under these cruise and idle conditions, the PCV sucks air from this hose, and the block through the valve cover vent hoses.
These valve cover vent hoses on both sides of the engine serve another purpose under idle and cruise conditions. Since the PCV is sucking in air from the inlet hose and the block, the air in the block is being sucked through the valve cover vents. The valve cover vents are again attached to the turbo inlet hose. So both the valve cover vents, and crank case vent are sucking in fresh air from the turbo inlet hose, of course behind the MAF sensor.
Since there are 2 pathways for the PCV to suck from on the crankcase junction connector, it will suck from the path of least resistance. At times this might be the block side, when the engine is at high RPM and no boost, when there is more blow by coming from the block. Other times it might be the shorter crankcase vent hose going to the inlet hose, when there is not much blow by.
This re-burning of the blow-by (oil and combustion gases) isn’t bad, except that it can build up carbon and deposits on the intake valves, pistons, and exhaust valves. This build up can lead to poor valve seal, compression loss, valve seat damage…… Nothing good except that you are recycling something that shouldn’t be emitted to the atmosphere.
So to recap, under idle and cruise the PCV, is sucking on the crankcase junction connector. Form the junction connector; air is being sucked through 2 things. One is the crankcase vent hose, which is attached to the turbo inlet. Two is the block, which is sucking in air from the valve cover vents, which are attached to the turbo inlet hose. The 3 main vents are getting air sucked in through them. All the system is doing is sucking in fresh air through the block and evacuating the blow-by (oil and combustion gases) into the intake manifold. Which in turn gets re-burned for cleaner emissions. You can see evidence of this if you open the throttle body and look in the manifold. You will find the oily mess. You will also find this oily mess in the intercooler, but this is from another function of the system…

PCV System (Boost)
Its not really a PCV system, more like a CV (crankcase vent) system under boost conditions. As soon as there is boost in the manifold (anything from 0PSI on up) the PCV is closed. So no more air flow from the PCV. Now you have to imagine the crank case vent hose, and the valve cover vent hoses are flowing air out of them. Since both the valve cover vents and the crank case vent hose are connected to the turbo inlet hose, they will both be putting the blow by back into the engine for re-burning. Because these hoses are before the turbocharger inlet, they will see the vacuum caused by the turbo ingesting air. This helps evacuate the build of blow-by pressure in the crankcase.
The downfall to the blow-by (oil and combustion gases) being sucked into the turbo through from the vents under these conditions is it puts the same oily mess into the turbo, which travels to the intercooler system, then finally back to the manifold. This is much worse than the system under normal conditions as oil in the intercooler cause loss in its cooling ability. So that nice aftermarket intercooler will become less and less efficient over time. Meaning loss in horsepower!! Also this oily mess gets in the boost tubes, and couplers which can deteriorate rubber, and silicone, not to mention cause these connections to come loose!

Valve Cover Vent System (cruise and idle)
The valve cover vent system is very simple in that it joins both left and right valve covers, to the intake system. These are easily seen on the front of the intercooler as the hard pipes (black or silver depending on the year) that run across and join to the intake system before the turbo. Under idle and cruise conditions, the PCV system is pulling vacuum (more like creating flow) on the block. In this state, the valve cover vents allow for fresh air (from the intake system) to be sucked into the block back through the intake system. The best way to think of this is, they’re a fresh air duct for the PCV system. In this mode there is no downfall to how the system works.

Valve Cover Vent System (Boost)
When the PCV valve closes off under boost, the vale cover vent job completely changes. Instead of letting fresh air from the intake system into the block, they are now letting the built up crank case pressure out! Because the valve cover vents hook up to the intake system, they see a slight amount of vacuum. This small amount of vacuum helps to evacuate the built up pressure in the crankcase. The down fall to this mode is that the oily mess gets sucked into the intake system. Which then gets into the turbo, intercooler plumbing and back into the engine. As described above, this is bad. Under racing conditions with high load cornering, oil flying around and sloshing into the heads, gets sucked out of the valve cover vents and into the intake system. Again putting oil into all the wrong places.
How does the CC work?
The Catch can is very simple in how it works. There is generally 2 ports on the catch can, one input and one output. The input side is connected to one of the engine vents, and the output side goes to the vacuum source. The oily mess and vapor enters the open space in the can. Because the oil weighs more than the vapor, the oil settles to the bottom, and gets trapped in the media. The vapors then get sucked out of the can leaving the oil behind. Our systems include foam media to help collect oil and to help with sloshing of excess oil when the can fills up.

Why isn’t there a factory version of the CC?
In an OEM world there isn’t a reasonable way to have one. The added maintenance to the end user may not be something people want to deal with. The added cost of integrating a catch can into the crank case vent system, would be pretty expensive to add to current engine designs. Then there is always that the crank case vent system works just fine for a stock car, so why should OEMs make them. That is why we make an aftermarket CC!

So where do I hook up a catch can?
The above info is specific to the WRX/ STI, and Legacy engines. So using that there are 2 main different types of crank case vents, there are 3 ways to hook up a catch can. One on the valve cover vent system, one on the crank case vent system, and the other is on the PCV system. All of these systems start at the engine and get vacuum from the intake system. You simply intersect the vent hose with a catch can before it enters the intake system.

Valve Cover Vent
If you are hooking up a catch can to the valve cover vents on a Subaru, simply locate the vent hoses on each side, and where they tee together. From the tee junction you will find the hose connected to the turbo intake hose. Simply cut this hose, and connect one end to INPUT on Catch can, and the other to the OUTPUT.

Crank case vent
If you are hooking up a catch can to the crank vent on a Subaru, simply locate the vent hose/junction coming off the center of the crank case. One leg goes to the PCV system or manifold, and the other goes the turbo intake hose. Simply cut the hose before it reaches the turbo intake hose, and connect one end to INPUT on Catch can, and the other to the OUTPUT.

PCV system install
If you are hooking up a catch can to the crank vent on a Subaru, simply locate the vent hose/junction coming off the center of the crankcase. One leg goes to the PCV system or manifold, and the other goes the turbo intake hose. Simply cut the PCV hose before it reaches the intake manifold fitting and connect one end to INPUT on Catch can, and the other to the OUTPUT. Because this hose see manifold boost and vacuum, with our Catch Can you need to install our CC support. This will keep the CC from collapsing under vacuum.


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## iBeast (May 31, 2007)

*Re: Official Catch Can FAQ/DIY thread (1.8t_356)*

what do you just do with the vac line that goes to the intake mani do you just plug it and is it good to jsut have one source of vac for breaks


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## ypsetihw (Nov 20, 2008)

*Re: Official Catch Can FAQ/DIY thread (iBeast)*

the double vac source for brakes is a redundancy designed for safety. There are check valves in both and even a vac amplifier in line with the brake vac lines. total overkill . . .
you can definitely run it off a single source of vacuum. just reconnect it to the rubber coupler coming off the mani. keep at least 1 check valve in place. probably not a bad idea to check up on the connections once in a while either . . .


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## Got2BTurbo'd (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: Official Catch Can FAQ/DIY thread (ypsetihw)*

On the oem pcv system there is the line coming from the top of where you screw in your oil filter and it t's off to a vac sourse on the bottom of the plenum; is this vac source necessary with a cc set up? Also with the vented cc with the filter, does that eliminate the hose that would be routed to the pcv valve on the TIP? Thanks


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## ypsetihw (Nov 20, 2008)

*Re: Official Catch Can FAQ/DIY thread (Got2BTurbo'd)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Got2BTurbo’d* »_On the oem pcv system there is the line coming from the top of where you screw in your oil filter and it t's off to a vac sourse on the bottom of the plenum; is this vac source necessary with a cc set up? 

This small valve after the crankcase elbow is the PCV valve itself. normally under boost it will blow crap out of the crankcase on its own, but under vacuum there is no positive pressure in the system. the PCV is connected to the vac source on the plenum that you describe, and it applies suction to the crankcase vent line when the system is at vacuum. 
IIRC the PCV valve and vac system is not actually required for it to work, many a DIY show it with just two simplified hoses from the crankcase and vc to a T, and into the can. I'm sure you could rip the factory kink hose off he PCV valve and leave it in place when you do the catch can, which is what I'm considering. 

_Quote, originally posted by *Got2BTurbo’d* »_Also with the vented cc with the filter, does that eliminate the hose that would be routed to the pcv valve on the TIP? Thanks

the hockey puck looking valve on the TIP is the PRV valve. Yes, you would remove the PRV and plug the hole on the TIP if you vent the catch can. You can also remove this valve and stick an elbow in there if you want when you run the new hose to the TIP.


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## Got2BTurbo'd (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: (NOLA_VDubber)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NOLA_VDubber* »_Here's the build list for my can. I used 1/2"ID pushlock lines run independently from the VC and block to the can (so no tee fitting):
as of now, these are the only shots i have with the can in it (if you look really close in that first shot you can see the 034 block breather adapter):

















_Modified by NOLA_VDubber at 12:57 PM 4-30-2009_

Where did you get your catch can??


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## supersoaker50 (Aug 4, 2005)

*Re: (Got2BTurbo'd)*

034 motorsport
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Lou_Y2mK5 (Apr 6, 2008)

*Re: (supersoaker50)*

Here is something new coming out from SMS Performance. Mine should be here this week.


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## blown1.8tjetta (Jul 29, 2009)

so you have to remove your intake manifold to install a catch can? i didnt think you had to do that..


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## Aronc (Jan 30, 2006)

its definitely doable without removing the intake manifold, i put mine in without removing it. Removing the manifold will make it much easier to work in that area underneath as well as to change out the block breather fitting...


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## KlutchKing (Sep 23, 2008)

*Re: (ascgti89)*

i bought this catch can on ebay and i took the hose connectors off th see how big the hole is in them and it's pretty freaking small. does anyone else have this can? and is it ok to use or do i need to drill out the holes? it's going on a 1.8t.  http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ories


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## BoostinBejan (Apr 13, 2009)

*Re: (Lou_Y2mK5)*

Do those SMS performance ones have internal baffling? It's kind of funny when companies intentionally do not post pictures of the inside because there is no good baffling, as that is the POINT OF A CATCH CAN.


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## [email protected] (Feb 3, 2009)

We sell bolt in solutions that require no modification. Here is a link to our thread.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4235023


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## Got2BTurbo'd (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: (Lou_Y2mK5)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Lou_Y2mK5* »_Here is something new coming out from SMS Performance. Mine should be here this week. 










































I like this but i don't see it anywhere on thier site. Do you have a link??


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## OLD-GTI (Jul 19, 2001)

*Re: (Got2BTurbo'd)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Got2BTurbo’d* »_
I like this but i don't see it anywhere on thier site. Do you have a link??

x2


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## SMS Performance (Dec 14, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Hey guys we do not have them up yet as we sent this to Louis to get some installed pics of it. We are no complete on the kit as of yet and we want to see some reviews of it. It is not posted on the site because it is not done! But feel free to contact us if you are interested!!!


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## SMS Performance (Dec 14, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (SMS Performance)*

Ok so I have had some responses, We do not have the kit up as of yet because it is not fully complete. This is not a specific catch can for 1 application but for many different ones. I was not expecting this to be posted because it is not done yet. I can get hot and heavy on it if the demand presents itself.


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## NOLA_VDubber (May 24, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (SMS Performance)*

fwiw, that can looks bad ass!


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## Lou_Y2mK5 (Apr 6, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (NOLA_VDubber)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NOLA_VDubber* »_fwiw, that can looks bad ass!









Exactly why I jumped on this opportunity. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Yes, it needs one or two more items and is why it's not on the website. 
I'll be sure to post pics in the engine bay at the end of this month when it's all completed with my build. 
This kit will provide both function and eye candy.








I'm thinking it will go well with an HKS mushroom filter


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## .:RyouExperienced (Sep 19, 2005)

*FV-QR*

What can we expect pricing to be on the SMS can? Anything above $200 and I'm pretty set on the cheap eBay/DIY route sadly.


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## BoostinBejan (Apr 13, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Lou_Y2mK5)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Lou_Y2mK5* »_
This kit will provide both function and eye candy.










I don't see any function in it, if there is no baffling. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


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## NOLA_VDubber (May 24, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (BoostinBejan)*

I've been running steel wool in my ATP style can for almost a year now. There's absolutely no residue under the hood of my car, and a nice pool of muck in the can, so I can only assume that adding a baffling material to a can that lacks it is effective.
I agree that for the price, these cans should come with something better.


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## SMS Performance (Dec 14, 2008)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *BoostinBejan* »_
I don't see any function in it, if there is no baffling. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 


Again, We are developing the best way and function for this. I am not about mass producing junk! For $249.99 it will come with the fittings (anodized Black 4pcs and 2 adapter pcs) and 5 feet steel braided line5/8 in. and a drain. Yes we are inserting baffling. We are deciding on what type of baffle to use. Another thing is retailing everything seen in the SMS pics and the baffling for 199.99 and add 50 for the line kit and 30 for black hoses. If demand is big enough we can get more proactive.


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## Lou_Y2mK5 (Apr 6, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (SMS Performance)*

On that note... Received it today... This is one bad ass can folks! Look at the girth on this thing! Big can and nice big filter. 








So sexy with the SS braid hoses and black fittings. http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif yay
Will be test fitting and reporting back to SMS asap!


_Modified by Lou_Y2mK5 at 6:57 PM 8-6-2009_


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Lou_Y2mK5)*

That's is a SWEEt can bro! I was in love with my 034 vented can until I saw that!


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## SMS Performance (Dec 14, 2008)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Lou_Y2mK5* »_On that note... Received it today... This is one bad ass can folks! Look at the girth on this thing! Big can and nice big filter. 








So sexy with the SS braid hoses and black fittings. http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif yay
Will be test fitting and reporting back to SMS asap!



You know whats funny??? Just look at the way you are holding it!!!


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## NOLA_VDubber (May 24, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (SMS Performance)*


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## BoostinBejan (Apr 13, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubinsincuwereindiapers* »_That's is a SWEEt can bro! I was in love with my 034 vented can until I saw that! 

Well until SMS comes out with the baffled one, both of those are un-baffled and don't do much "catching"


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## yumann (Nov 15, 2004)

That is one sexy can!!!
Whats the price on it?
As for baffle just stick some steel wool inside it.


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## Lou_Y2mK5 (Apr 6, 2008)

*Re: (yumann)*


_Quote, originally posted by *yumann* »_That is one sexy can!!!
Whats the price on it?
As for baffle just stick some steel wool inside it.

Dats the plan http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif







Will be trying a few things.


_Modified by Lou_Y2mK5 at 4:58 AM 8-7-2009_


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## Lou_Y2mK5 (Apr 6, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (SMS Performance)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SMS Performance* »_
You know whats funny??? Just look at the way you are holding it!!!


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (BoostinBejan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BoostinBejan* »_
Well until SMS comes out with the baffled one, both of those are un-baffled and don't do much "catching"








 Fwiw Bejan i've got steel wool in mine and it catches quite a bit.








:unintentional homosexual inuendo edited out:


_Modified by dubinsincuwereindiapers at 9:18 AM 8-7-2009_


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*FV-QR*

ok there is too much man love in this thread on one page
Girth, holding it right, and wad are all on page 2.


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (theswoleguy)*

I like to think of it as more of a BROMANCE


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubinsincuwereindiapers* »_I like to think of it as more of a BROMANCE










correct http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## SMS Performance (Dec 14, 2008)

*FV-QR*

You guys!!! Geez! I was only talking about how he was holding it. You took that ball and ran with it!


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## OLD-GTI (Jul 19, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (SMS Performance)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SMS Performance* »_took that ball and ran with it!


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## yumann (Nov 15, 2004)

*Re: (Lou_Y2mK5)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Lou_Y2mK5* »_
Dats the plan http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif







Will be trying a few things.

_Modified by Lou_Y2mK5 at 4:58 AM 8-7-2009_

I have a cheap ebay moded one with steel wool and filter. Not ideal like the sms one as if sticking steel wool in as the inlet and outlets are too close.


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## yumann (Nov 15, 2004)

SMS price and availability???


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## Lou_Y2mK5 (Apr 6, 2008)

*Re: (yumann)*


_Quote, originally posted by *yumann* »_
I have a cheap ebay moded one with steel wool and filter. Not ideal like the sms one as if sticking steel wool in as the inlet and outlets are too close.

I plan on using this as 2 inlets. Outlet is the filter


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## Lou_Y2mK5 (Apr 6, 2008)

*Re: (yumann)*


_Quote, originally posted by *yumann* »_SMS price and availability???

up a few posts for pricing idea. availability depends on how much demand. They are pretty busy but if enough demand they will get on it.


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## SMS Performance (Dec 14, 2008)

*FV-QR*

I am thinking about restructuring the prices. I am also thinking about making the install kit as optional and vehicle specific. The baffle is going to be put into the port in the cap. We originally designed the port to hang down lower that the Inlets to cause an affect such as a water separator. For safe measure we are going to use a baffle. Plus we are going to run this as a sealed unit for the FSI guys.


_Modified by SMS Performance at 12:12 AM 8-8-2009_


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## Got2BTurbo'd (Jan 7, 2009)

highly interested in the sms can. i don't like the sealed idea though. Please let pm me or let us know when you are ready for customers i would like to be one of the first.


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## SMS Performance (Dec 14, 2008)

*Re: (Got2BTurbo'd)*

The sealed can would be for the FSI guys!


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## yumann (Nov 15, 2004)

*Re: (Lou_Y2mK5)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Lou_Y2mK5* »_
up a few posts for pricing idea. availability depends on how much demand. They are pretty busy but if enough demand they will get on it. 

That is what I do. Might stick on another filter to cut down the back pressure.
As for the sms can very nice product but not sure if its worth £150 or 250 us...


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (yumann)*

You guys all read in my OP that I got my can for like $60 on eBay, right? It blows that this thread turned into a classified ad, there are enough of those







http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


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## SMS Performance (Dec 14, 2008)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *yumann* »_
That is what I do. Might stick on another filter to cut down the back pressure.
As for the sms can very nice product but not sure if its worth £150 or 250 us...


The 250 would be for all the fittings, SS lines and CC

_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_You guys all read in my OP that I got my can for like $60 on eBay, right? It blows that this thread turned into a classified ad, there are enough of those







http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 


I was only responding to someone posting my product and answering questions.


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## NOLA_VDubber (May 24, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (SMS Performance)*

I ended up spending around $200 for my can setup including lines and fittings, and i used cheapo push-lock rubber hose. $250 for that can with lines and fittigns sounds like a great deal to me


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## Lou_Y2mK5 (Apr 6, 2008)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_You guys all read in my OP that I got my can for like $60 on eBay, right? It blows that this thread turned into a classified ad, there are enough of those







http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 

Yeah sorry dude, it's DIY for me because I'm helping them piece it together for certain applications. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Just not the ebay route is all. 
back to the OP can anyone help me find the breather port on my valve cover? It does not look like most valve covers and am a little lost. ATW head


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

*Re: (Lou_Y2mK5)*

this thread has been hijacked.


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## KlutchKing (Sep 23, 2008)

What is the consistency of blow by? Is it runny like water or thicker like oil? I just emptied my can and it's about the color of piss or used frying grease. But it's more of the consistency of water.


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

what youve got is normal, healthy, catch can funk:beer: Its a combo of blowby, condensation, and simple oil vapor from the crankcase/head


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## KlutchKing (Sep 23, 2008)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> what youve got is normal, healthy, catch can funk:beer: Its a combo of blowby, condensation, and simple oil vapor from the crankcase/head





Thanks


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Wanted to bump this with a pic of my recirculated check valve from an older 7.5 gas Super Duty, it is nice because it is inline (unlike the awkward 90* OEM puck), metal, and made for SAI - part# CX1462









(setup to be refreshed soon)


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

:thumbup:


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