# Turn8's A3 Build Thread.



## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

For fun, I decided to post a build thread for my A3. In reality, I’m not building anything, so this thread will simply illustrate the path I take and modifications and improvements I make to my A3. 

The car… 
2009 Audi A3 is Black/Black equipped with the 2.0T and DSG transmission with the Premium, Titanium, and S-line packages. 

Why did I buy an A3? Well, I needed to downsize from two cars to one. I wanted one car that could replace my daily driver and my weekend/track toy. I found the Audi A3’s size, shape, four-doors, and sporty nature to fit my needs perfectly. 

I’m confident that this A3 is going to be an excellent car because it is luxurious, well built, and fun to drive. The A3’s character reminds me of my previous VW’s, a 2002 GTI 337 and a 2008 R32, both of which I thoroughly enjoyed. 

The A3 flaunts a very rich, high-quality interior constructed of high-end materials. The dashboard, interior trim, and the various instruments are all well laid-out and arranged smartly. I immediately noticed the high quality feel of the switch-gear, steering wheel, and the high-grade leather used on the very comfortable seats. Though, I must say, that the seats are a little too ‘flat’ for my tastes, they could offer more support for spirited driving. But, hey, enough about the seats, even the stock Audi sound system is surprisingly impressive for an OEM vehicle. 




























Overall, Audi’s execution and attention to detail regarding the A3, is truly remarkable. 

I chose to buy an A3 with the 2.0T because the engine provides more than enough power to make the A3 fun to drive and it is easily modified to produce more power. I was happy in the past with VW’s 1.8T but, the 2.0T with its quick turbo spool-up and the amount of torque available in the low-rpms make it seem as if the car has a V6 under the hood. For a four cylinder, considering the power, and the fuel economy, the 2.0T is definitely impressive, even in stock form. 

I’m a manual transmission type of guy. I normally own one automatic car and one manual transmission car at any given time. However, since I am downsizing to one vehicle, I had to make a compromise and, based on my previous experience with the R32, I knew the DSG is the perfect compromise for my situation. I’ll admit, I’m not a huge fan of the DSG in auto mode. I find that the transmission in auto mode shifts way too often at low speeds. It is very annoying and, at times, even frustrating to drive in auto mode. I’m pretty sure the super conservative and rapid automatic shift programming is done to conserve fuel but, ironically, I can achieve the same or, better fuel mileage in manual mode. Go figure! Like my R32, I plan to do most of my driving in manual mode. 

My A3, as equipped, already looks and drives great. However, I plan to subtlety modify the A3 to suite my personal tastes. 

So what needs to be improved? 

For performance, my plan is to boost the power output of the 2.0T with an ECU Tune, Intake, Water/Methanol Injection, and Exhaust. To go along with the performance enhancements, I want to add a boost gauge and perhaps a wide-band gauge to monitor the engine vitals. In addition, the DSG will receive an HPA performance stage 2 Tune which will be complimented by a set of S2T Performance paddle shifters (which was the awesome combination I had in my R32). 

For appearance, I personally like the way my A3 looks (with the exception of the ride height) so I don’t plan to modify the exterior extensively. There’s a good chance I’ll swap out the current Headlamps and Tail lamps to the HID/LED models that I’ve seen. For wheels, at least for the moment, I’ll stick with the OEM’s. I will, however, be adding window tint immediately! 

I’ll need to spend some more time behind the wheel of my A3 before I make any decisions regarding the suspension setup. However, I will be adding a set of height-adjustable coilovers, as soon as possible… I don’t like driving around in what appears to be a 4x4 A3. LOL! 

What did I forget??? 

If you are interested in my build, please stay tuned… 

Mike


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## Ultimatetaba (Feb 18, 2005)

Great little writeup and intro sir. Welcome. I'm sure you'll love the car. 

I look forward to seeing what you've got in store. I'll probably see you rolling around one of these days, I'm right around the corner...in Santa Clarita.


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

^^^^ 
Thank you! 

There is a good chance I'll see you around the area! :beer: 

First things First. Window Tint! 

As a car enthusiast living in California can be frustrating (you'll probably read this often in this thread). We have some ridiculous laws that make modifying a car difficult. We even have laws that even discourage automotive window tint! Luckily, the laws only prohibit the use of window tint on the windshield, and on the front driver and passenger windows. We can legally tint the rear windows and rear glass on any vehicle. 

My understanding behind this law is to protect our law enforcement officers when they approach a vehicle. They want to be able to see inside the vehicle to confirm if a suspect is armed or not. 
The problem I have with this law is that there are benefits to have window tint on most, if not all your windows. The tint actually protects the interior from the harmful rays of the sun if the car spends quite a bit of time outside in direct sunlight (which my car does when it is not at home in the garage). Just look at any 5 year old or, older vehicle that spends time outside in direct sunlight without window tint and compare it to another car of the same age and model year with window tint under the same conditions and examine the interior. The car without window tint will show a lot more fading, cracking, and overall interior wear and tear. Which is why this law sucks. I want my window tint on all windows AND, I don’t want to have to worry about being fined and given a ‘fix-it’ ticket! 
Oh well, I can’t have everything in life… I’ll take my chances. 
Did I also mention that window tint keeps the car cooler inside and it looks great! 

I got all my windows tinted with the exception of the front windshield. The front door windows were tinted at 30% and the rear glass was tinted at 15%. Nothing too crazy. Here are a couple pics; 



















Mike


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## GunKata (Apr 4, 2006)

Looking good and good mod plans. I am picking up my '11 on wednesday of this week, and like you, I am a big fan of MT, but the DSG is starting to seem the better option for DD'ing, etc. Plus, my wife will be able to drive it easier and I don't have to upgrade the clutch when adding power to it. 

The S2T site seems to have the paddles on backorder - is that where you were getting them, directly, or is there somewhere else you were looking? 

suspension - i hear ya. Part of me says im done with suspension mods because of the compromise in ride quality, so who knows , I may have to live with the 4x4 look as well, haha..


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

I'll be getting a set , and I will post some shots, as well as a user review on their enhancement of the shifting while motoring energetically about town and country!


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

GunKata said:


> Looking good and good mod plans. I am picking up my '11 on wednesday of this week, and like you, I am a big fan of MT, but the DSG is starting to seem the better option for DD'ing, etc. Plus, my wife will be able to drive it easier and I don't have to upgrade the clutch when adding power to it.
> 
> The S2T site seems to have the paddles on backorder - is that where you were getting them, directly, or is there somewhere else you were looking?
> 
> suspension - i hear ya. Part of me says im done with suspension mods because of the compromise in ride quality, so who knows , I may have to live with the 4x4 look as well, haha..


 Thanks! And, congrats on your '11! I'll look forward to some pictures.  

Its true the DSG has it's positives and negatives but, it really is a good transmission that still offers the driver a bit more control than a standard 'slush-box'. 

Regarding the paddle shifters, yes, I'll be getting a set directly from S2T. I was told they'll have the Audi paddles available sometime in late June. Can't wait! 

I just don't like the appearance of the huge gap in the wheel-wells of a stock A3. I'll be changing that... I don't like the compromise in ride quality either but, I'm going with coilovers because in my experience they normally have a better ride than a standard aftermarket spring/shock combination. 

Mike


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

Man, it's good to see what my car looked like in 2009! What engine in der?


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## GunKata (Apr 4, 2006)

what coils are you considering?


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

kgw said:


> I'll be getting a set , and I will post some shots, as well as a user review on their enhancement of the shifting while motoring energetically about town and country!


 Awesome! I highly recommend them! 

Mike


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

tcardio said:


> Man, it's good to see what my car looked like in 2009! What engine in der?


 :beer: 

She's got the 2.0T. 

Mike


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

GunKata said:


> what coils are you considering?


 At this point, something decent but, inexpensive. I don't want to spend too much on a setup before I get a chance to really 'learn' the car on the track. My current goal is simply to lower the car for appearance. 
I'm liking the ST coilovers by KW. 

Mike


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## Maitre Absolut (Aug 5, 2009)

Turn8 said:


> The car…
> 2009 Audi A3 is Black/Black equipped with the 2.0T and DSG transmission with the Premium, Titanium, and S-line packages.
> 
> There’s a good chance I’ll swap out the current Headlamps and Tail lamps to the HID/LED models that I’ve seen.


 '09 premium package didnt come with front/rear LED's ??


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## VWAddict (Jun 12, 1999)

*FV-QR*

ALL 09 onwards should have rear LEDs... there is no OEM 'upgrade' unless the Previous Owner 'downgraded' you...


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

^^^^ 
I don't know... Were LED's part of the premium or luxury packages? There are many options that my A3 does not have... 

Today I decided to 'scope' the intake manifold of my A3 to check for carbon build-up. 

I admit, I'm a little spooked. A close friend of mine has an '09 GTI 2.0T with 60K miles that had a massive build-up of carbon in the intake manifold, on the valves, and in the cylinder head. The VW dealership replaced quite a few different parts before they decided to 'scope' the intake and check for build-up. When they did, they found what would be equivalant to a softball size amount of carbon in his engine. Since the carbon build-up has been removed, his car is running great, like it did when it was new! 

I personally don't want to start modifying the 2.0T until I can be reasonably certain that I'm not going to run into trouble down-the-road. I know the previous owner completed all the scheduled maintainance for my A3. However, what I don't know is how the car was driven and if he/she used premium brand fuels and/or, performed any additional maintainance/oil changes to help prevent the dreadful carbon build-up. 

Anyway, here is the process and what I found in my engine: 

First, I located the IAT sensor. 









Then, using a T-30 torx driver I removed the IAT sensor 









Removing the IAT sensor leaves an access hole in the intake manifold so I can insert the camera 









Here is a picture illustrating some carbon build-up in the intake manifold and on the valves. 









Another picture illustrating carbon build-up in the intake manifold and on the valves. 









Well, my 2.0T does have 'some' carbon build-up in the intake manifold and cylinder heads but, it isn't as severe as other cars I've seen. And since the carbon build-up in my engine hasn't really hurt the gas mileage or set off any CEL's I think it may be ready for some modifications. However, I wish there were easier ways to clean and prevent the mess... 

Mike


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## VWAddict (Jun 12, 1999)

ALL A3's came with LED tails after 2008. Beginning at the start of model year 2009. Only the LED headlights were an option. 

However, if you need LED tails, I'll have a set for sale soon. -You shouldn't, though.


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## VWAddict (Jun 12, 1999)

Use only top tier gasoline, otherwise Audi will tell you that it's all your fault. 

My car was at 65000 when it had to have injectors replaced, valves and intake cleaned. I was asked what fuel I'd been using, and pointed towards page three hundred and something in the owners manual, where it says to use ONLY approved fuels. 

And no, I'm NOT talking about octane number: 

http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers.html


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## NYCameron (Nov 17, 2010)

Turn8 said:


> Though, I must say, that the seats are a little too ‘flat’ for my tastes, they could offer more support for spirited driving.
> Mike


 Hey Mike. Welcome to the A3 community! 

But as for your seats, I think it's because you don't have the sports seats. I have the sports seats and they hug me pretty well 



VWAddict said:


> Use only top tier gasoline, otherwise Audi will tell you that it's all your fault.
> 
> My car was at 65000 when it had to have injectors replaced, valves and intake cleaned. I was asked what fuel I'd been using, and pointed towards page three hundred and something in the owners manual, where it says to use ONLY approved fuels.
> 
> ...


 I thought the intake got dirty because the fsi is direct injection, so no fuel is sprayed on any of the valves to keep them clean 
Is the tsi different? Did they implement something to spray the valves?


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## VWAddict (Jun 12, 1999)

That is indeed exactly why the valves get dirty. No 'washing' from the fuel. 

However, the carbon soot must come from somewhere combustion-related, and all I can tell you is that my Audi dealer's comment was 'you've been using a fuel which has been producing combustion by-products which are responsible for the carbon build-up. 

Either way it's right there in your owner's manual (I didn't believe it until I looked myself) that they very specifically recuse themselves from ANY liability for carbon deposits if you've not been using top-tier approved fuels. 

For that reason, I've been keeping every receipt and noting tank mileage, odometer reading and indicated MPG per tank on each receipt, along with fuel brand. -It's my only defense, and without it, they can say what they want. -In addition, every receipt gets entered into a master Excel spreadsheet, and an image scanned in and linked from a cell. The originals are also retained as further 'evidence'. 

If they're going to put it IN WRITING in the owner's manual that all owners need to use specific brands of fuel, or they deny any responsibility and get all 'legal', then I'm going to make all my stuff 'legally bulletproof' also. 

Plus.. -hey, when it comes to private resale, it helps to be able to show care taken all the way down to the brand of fuel.


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

VWAddict said:


> That is indeed exactly why the valves get dirty. No 'washing' from the fuel.
> 
> However, the carbon soot must come from somewhere combustion-related, and all I can tell you is that my Audi dealer's comment was 'you've been using a fuel which has been producing combustion by-products which are responsible for the carbon build-up.
> 
> ...


 Wow! Great information! Thanks for sharing! 

Mike


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## brungold (Oct 8, 2007)

*FV-QR*

lookin good so far!


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

Turn8 said:


> Wow! Great information! Thanks for sharing!
> 
> Mike


 Except brand of gas doesn't really affect carbon buildup. 

Dave


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## VWAddict (Jun 12, 1999)

I know we've had this one out a lot before, but if you read what I wrote again carefully you'll see that I've only reported what (1) I've been told by Audi and (2) is in your owner's manual. 

I can't unequivocally say that it does or doesn't, and I don't think that you can either, truth be told... but I'm not interested in debating that point, merely pointing out that Audi has a legal 'out' regarding carbon buildup if you don't do what they tell you to do in the manual... where they make very specific mention of carbon buildup.


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

Thanks guys! 



crew219 said:


> Except brand of gas doesn't really affect carbon buildup.
> 
> Dave


 I know, I know... But, any information regarding the subject is much appreciated. 

One of the many reasons I'm planning to run a W/M setup (perhaps a direct port system) is to 'help' with the reduction carbon build-up and have some sort of fluid flowing past the valves. 

Mike


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## elgordito941 (Jul 11, 2010)

VWAddict said:


> ALL A3's came with LED tails after 2008. Beginning at the start of model year 2009. Only the LED headlights were an option.
> 
> However, if you need LED tails, I'll have a set for sale soon. -You shouldn't, though.


 I want!:wave: 

or ill have to jump on that last round for the group buy. I feel as if its long over due and i wont get anymore chances


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

High on my priority list, of ‘things-to-do’ to my A3, was to lower the suspension. 
I had to lower my A3. 
These cars just look better lowered. 

I purchased a set of ST Speedtech Coilovers to accomplish this task. 

So, if my goal was simply to lower the suspension my Audi for appearance and I didn’t really care about the suspension performance, why didn’t I simply purchase a set of lowering springs? 

In my experience it is hard to find aftermarket lowering springs that work well with the OEM dampers. Usually an example of this combination results in a choppy and uncomfortable ride because the spring rates and the damper rates don’t match. Conversely, my experience with aftermarket Coilover suspension setups has been much better, which is why I decided to go in that direction. 
Do it once, do it right…or, something like that? 

I could have purchased a set of aftermarket springs AND a set of aftermarket shocks to compliment the improved spring rates (however, there is still a possibility that the spring/damper rates won’t match, resulting in a horrible ride, and I’d have to swap everything back out and do it all again…Not fun!) but, ironically, when you add up the total investment of a spring/shock combination, the price for a set of Coilovers was surprisingly competitive. Plus, with Coilovers, not only do they offer matched damper and spring rates, they also sport the ability to manually adjust the ride height to suit my own personal tastes. Bonus! 

There are obviously a ton of aftermarket Coilover suspension choices available for the Audi A3. However, to narrow the field, my decision was based on price (I wanted to spend under $1K) and manufacture reputation. 

The ST Speedtech Coilovers fit my needs, and wallet, perfectly. The ST Coilovers are made by KW and ST is owned by KW automotive. KW’s reputation as a Coilover suspension manufacture is solid. 

The ST Coilovers are basically the same as the KW V1 Coilovers except, they are constructed of high grade steel (not stainless steel) that is heavily galvanized for rust prevention, and they have a 5 year warranty (instead of a limited lifetime warranty), however, the ST’s cost much less, yet offer the same features and suspension performance. Originally, I wanted to purchase the KW V1’s so I was extremely pleased to stumble upon the ST’s for the A3. 

The installation of the ST Coilovers wasn’t too complicated. I did a little research online and found an article by one of the more popular Euro magazines that did a project A3 where they did a step-by-step Coilover installation. I’m happy I found the article. It proved to be of significant help for my novice mechanical knowledge and skills. In addition, had I not read the article I wouldn’t have had a 27mm socket or a 14mm 12-point triple square bolt when I needed it! 

Anyway, the rear OEM shock absorbers and springs were easily removed and the ST parts were installed in like fashion with the help of some power tools. The fronts, well, they took a little more work. We ended up removing the entire front strut assemblies and placed them on a bench for their disassembly and reassembly with the new ST Coilover components. Overall, it took about 4 hours of work to get the job done and I had a great time doing it! 

I’m very happy with the appearance and ride of my A3 with the new ST Coilovers installed. The overall appearance and ride height is completely adjustable and I’m still fiddling with it. Even though the ride height measurements are the same front to rear, I may take the front down another half inch for just the right ‘look’. 

The ride quality is better than I expected it to be. I would describe the ride quality as firm but, with a ‘sporty’ OEM quality. I can feel that the springs and dampers are well matched together and to the vehicle design and weight. I wouldn’t claim or characterize the ST Coilovers as a luxury setup but, seriously, this setup could be used for OEM. The ride is firm, yet compliant and it only feels firm when it needs to be. 

As expected, my A3 equipped with the ST Coilovers, has better steering response on initial turn-in, it corners flatter throughout every turn, at any speed, and I have a better sense of speed and a greater confidence while driving at high speeds. I’m impressed. The ST Coilovers are definitely worth the purchase price. I think they are a true bargain. I recommend them! 




























Mike


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## ocswing (Sep 24, 2011)

Turn8 said:


> High on my priority list, of ‘things-to-do’ to my A3, was to lower the suspension.
> I had to lower my A3.
> These cars just look better lowered.
> 
> ...


 Out of curiousity, are you at the highest setting for those coilovers?


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

^^^^ 
No, I'm in the middle. The perches can be lowered another 1 1/2 inches on the front and rear. 

Mike


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

looks nice but tsk tsk tsk reverse rake


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## GunKata (Apr 4, 2006)

Mike, lookin' good man:thumbup: I've been in a GTI with ST's and was quite impressed. I am currently looking down the line at Bilsteins after my K04, S3 IC, and Stoptechs go on.


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

^^^^^
The Bilstein Coilovers are very nice! I've driven a couple cars with PSS9's.
I'm looking forward to your KO4 mods.



tcardio said:


> looks nice but tsk tsk tsk reverse rake


I'm working on that. I'm planning on lowering the front another 1/2 inch. That...should even it out. 

Mike


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## Maitre Absolut (Aug 5, 2009)

looks good so far

should get some spacers 8-10mm to fill in the gap.

:thumbup:


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

^^^^
Thanks

Or, perhaps some wider rims and tires...

Mike


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## Maitre Absolut (Aug 5, 2009)

Turn8 said:


> ^^^^
> Thanks
> 
> Or, perhaps some wider rims and tires...
> ...


Spend your money elsewhere. Hard to beat an oem+ wheel.


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## Chimera (Jul 6, 2002)

How much would you guess you could raise the rear? My ST rear height is the same and I'm as high as I can go without perch spacers.


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

^^^^
Right now, the rear perches are located in the center of the threads so I believe I can raise the rear by a least a full inch.



Maitre Absolut said:


> Spend your money elsewhere. Hard to beat an oem+ wheel.


Good point! 

Mike


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

Did I mention, I like gauges… 
Especially, accurate ones that tell you cool things while you drive. 
So, I decided it was time to add a Boost Gauge to my A3 before any more serious modifications are added. 

Obviously, adding a boost gauge to the A3 isn’t too trivial or, difficult. But, I did have to decide on which gauge to purchase and how I wanted to mount it. 

I’ve owned a lot of boost gauges over the years and have installed them on a variety of vehicles. Some gauges have been more accurate than others and the prices have been all over the place, some cheap and some really expensive. I’ve found that the mechanical boost gauges are the most accurate and by far, the least inexpensive when compared to electrical gauges. My experience with VDO’s mechanical boost gauges has been excellent and that is why I decided to go with their product for my A3. 

In addition, I chose to purchase the Newsouth Column Pod to mount my VDO gauge because it isn’t as obnoxious as an A-Pillar mount and has a somewhat OEM appearance. I could have chosen to mount the boost gauge in one of the classy A/C vent mounts but, I feared that it would interfere with the A/C vent deflection causing the air to not flow in the direction that I wish. I want to be comfortable when I’m driving (this is an Audi for God’s sake). 
There were a couple other options that mount in the lower dash/center console area but, I felt that the placement is too low to make the gauges readable while driving. 

The installation for both the gauge and the Column Pod was simple and straightforward. The VDO gauge easily slides into the Column Pod and the Pod sits on top of the OEM steering column trim. The Column Pod doesn’t come with anything to attach it to the steering column trim but, the directions do call for the use of double-sided tape. I ended up using Velcro because that is what I had on hand and I knew there was a chance that I many need to remove it temporarily and reinstall it in the future for some reason or, another. In a case like this, Velcro will work much better than double-sided tape. I think the Newsouth Column Pod would be better if it was made to ‘replace’ the upper steering column trim shroud for a more secure and OEM style installation. But, hey, that’s just my opinion. 

I continued the installation by removing the lower dash panel. This was done by removing three screws (one of which is hidden behind the fuse panel on the side of the dash) which allows you to pull the panel straight towards the driver seat and it pops off. This gave me access to the wiring and the firewall. I tapped two wires on the headlamp switch so my gauge will light-up when the headlamps are on. I found the rubber plug on the firewall that allows access to the engine compartment. I poked a hole in the plug and fed my boost/vacuum hard-line through the hole. I got lucky. I was able to grab my hard-line and run it through the proper areas WITHOUT removing the battery. Perfect! 

To complete the installation I installed the APR Modular Boost Tap which made the connection of the boost line to the intake manifold the easiest part of the entire process. The APR boost tap or, like product is definitely worth it. 

Everything is working great and I’m really happy with the results. 
Here are a few pictures; 




























Mike


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Very clean install! High expectations for your build, Turn8. . .


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

^^^^ 
Thanks! 

It is definitely a work in progress but, I'm excited and eager for the future modifications.  

I'm having the A3 dyno'd this Wednesday for some baseline #'s. 

Mike


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## GunKata (Apr 4, 2006)

continues to look good! :thumbup: any further back pics of the gauge? does it just slightly block the tach, and nothing else? I'm considering going this route as well.


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

GunKata said:


> continues to look good! :thumbup: any further back pics of the gauge? does it just slightly block the tach, and nothing else? I'm considering going this route as well.


 Thanks! 

I can take some additional pics... 

From my view and, I'm short, the gauge pod blocks part of the clock/date on the cluster and 6800K and beyond on the tach. Overall, not too bad. 

I'll admit that I really like the vent mounts. I think they are the cleanest and best looking but, like I mentioned, I'm affraid that it will affect the air deflection so the pod mount was the compromise I made. 

I'm looking forward to some OEM Dyno #'s tomorrow!  

Mike


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## GunKata (Apr 4, 2006)

Turn8 said:


> Thanks!
> 
> I can take some additional pics...
> 
> ...


 some additional pics would be awesome :thumbup: 

We think a lot alike. I will probably do the same gauge setup, as with my GTI I ran the AWE vent gauge and kinda regretted it later. Granted, it was in the center left vent and perhaps the driver left wouldn't have been as bad, but I definitely don't want it to decrease air flow. 

Your description on what it blocks is good - thank you. I agree, not bad at all. 

Cool on the dyno - I am dynoing in about another month or so, after I get the dp put on with the K04 and the proper ECU file. What kind of dyno is it? mustang, dynojet, etc?


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

^^^^ 
I'll take some more pics of the guage pod at my earliest convenience. 
Thank you for sharing your experience and thoughts regarding the AWE vent mount! 

I'll be using a Dynojet 220xLC. 
I plan on making a lot of separate dyno pulls to log the progress of my A3. I'm going to do pulls stock, ECU tune, Carbonio stage 2 intake, Down-pipe, S3 Intercooler, and some more pulls when I eventually add a W/M setup. Should be fun and educational. :beer: 

I'm really looking forward to your K04 dyno results. I'm really impressed with the K04 setup on these cars since guys are getting 300WHP/300WTQ on 91 octane. 

I'm not 'planning' on a K04 setup for my car since it is FWD. I'm assuming that I will likely be testing the limits of my traction with the modifications I've already planned. But, we'll see! 

Mike


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## GunKata (Apr 4, 2006)

cool on the pics :thumbup: 

I will be on a dynojet too, but not sure exact model. I went with the Quattro because I knew I was going K04. I will be putting on the S3 IC with that - should be fine for my driving. 

I'd personally pass on teh stage 2 intake, unless you really want it. The fitment is rough and sometimes the PVC can leak oil. I would never buy one again, personally. 

Coils - did you replace any stock suspension bolts? have to adjust your headlights at all? 

Really loving your car and your build progress :thumbup:


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

As with any performance build, I think it is very important to record some baseline numbers so that the stock numbers can be compared with the results from future modifications.

I am lucky. In my local area we have quite a few dyno tuners that offer their dyno services to the public. To record my baseline numbers I chose to visit Tom at EFI West in Camarillo California because of their convenient business hours, experience, and enthusiasm. Tom is a great guy and he has more than 20 years experience with tuning EFI cars, a great reputation, and works very closely with OEM manufactures for engineering, fabrication, and tuning services. They know their stuff.

Anyway, here are the results we recorded on their DynoJet 220xLC;




























All of my future modifications will be recorded on this exact dyno and because I will not be able to create the same exact weather conditions for each dyno session we will be using the SAE correction factors so that all the recorded results can actually be compared with the previous results. 

In the case of this dyno visit, my A3 actually produced better numbers uncorrected but, since we will be using a correction factor to alleviate any inconsistencies for future dyno pulls, I posted the SAE results and not the 'better' WHP/WTQ results. 

Mike


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

Nice numbers! I'm interested to see the results after you start modding


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

^^^^
Thanks! I can't wait to see how the car does with the ECU Tune!



GunKata said:


> cool on the pics :thumbup:
> 
> I will be on a dynojet too, but not sure exact model. I went with the Quattro because I knew I was going K04. I will be putting on the S3 IC with that - should be fine for my driving.
> 
> ...


Thanks!

I’m going with the Carbonio stage 2 for the ‘appearance’ aspect. If it starts to leak or, become an issue, I’ll remove it. I’ve already ordered it so, it’s all good.

Was I supposed to change any of the stock bolts? I didn’t.
I didn’t readjust the headlamps either but, they seem to be good and accurate at their current settings.

Here are a few more shots of the gauge;



























Mike


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## GunKata (Apr 4, 2006)

Thanks for the pics, Mike.


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

^^^^
No problem! 

Mike


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

Perhaps, I was too bored and had way too much time on my hands… 

I don’t know about you guys but, I can’t stand the rear headrests in my A3 because they obstruct a significant portion of my rear view. So, like my previous VW Golfs, I immediately removed the three rear-view-robbing headrests and stored them in my garage. Now, you would think that this story is over. It should be, but my creative mind got the best of me, once again… 

A few days ago I was in the garage vigorously waxing my A3 because a bird took a HUGE crap on the hood AND passenger front fender…Dude, HUGE crap, GARGANTUAN crap…I’m thinking the turd must have come from a pterodactyl that had been feasting on several large elephants… Anyway, while my brain was on auto-pilot, I happened to look over at the rear seat headrests sitting on the shelf and for some reason, the sight of them triggered some crazy thoughts and ideas. As I continued to wax the A3 I began thinking about what I could do with them. 

Like the rear headrests, I also don’t like my front A3 headrests either but, for different reasons. I feel they are way too large and obnoxious, especially for me, since I’m so short. The VW GTI, for some reason or another, got better front headrests. They are smaller, better designed, and more comfortable. Why did the A3 get such crappy front headrests? 

I decided to pull the left and right rear headrests off the shelf to see if I could install them on the front seats. Surprisingly they fit! The install was super easy. I just had to make sure the front seats where in a low and reclined position so the front headrests would clear the roof headlining panel when they were removed. The results? Well, I think they look pretty darn cool! It really gives the A3 front seats a ‘sporty’ appearance. 




























There are some drawbacks, however. Since the rear headrests aren’t designed to fit on the front seats they are not height adjustable because there is only one locked position. You either like the height, or you don’t. In addition, there is a potential issue regarding comfort because the rear headrests protrude a bit more forward when compared to the original front headrests which can be a problem if your favorite seating position isn’t somewhat reclined. Furthermore, in an accident, I’m not sure how ‘safe’ it is having the rear headrests installed on the front seats since they are smaller and have only one lock position. It’s anyone’s guess. 

Personally, I find the modification really comfortable for daily driving because the new headrests are smaller, thinner, and are positioned nicely to support my head. Plus, they actually increase the rear and right hand side visibility while driving. However, I know when I throw on a helmet and start hot-lapping my A3 on the race track, I will have a problem with the modified headrest position because my helmet will, without a doubt, hit the new headrest and push my head forward making things rather uncomfortable. Though, to correct this issue, I think I’ll be able to put the headrest in the lowest ‘non-lock’ position and it will give me enough clearance for a comfortable seating position and still provide some protection in a rear end collision. I’m thinking as long as my A3 isn’t involved in a violent roll-over, I’ll be okay. 

I can’t say I recommend this modification, or if it even makes sense but, I like the fact that it is ‘different’, it looks pretty cool, and it is surprisingly comfortable. I think I’m going to keep it like this for a while. Or, until I install some proper racing seats. 

Up next for review; 
HPA ECU Stage 1 tune, HPA DSG Stage 2 upgrade, Carbonio Intake, and Water/Meth injection... 

Mike


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

Turn8 said:


> Perhaps, I was too bored and had way too much time on my hands…
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 ummm...looks wayward 

BTW, why HPA tune?


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## JPK_ (May 25, 2012)

Maybe its just me.. but i was instantly reminded of a star wars battle droid when I saw those headrests.


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

^^^^ 
LOL!!!! 

Maybe that's where my inspiration came from? I dunno. :laugh: 



tcardio said:


> ummm...looks wayward
> 
> BTW, why HPA tune?


 To be different, but also because their Tunes ability to automatically adjust for different octane fuels and any future modifications short of a new turbo. 

However, there has been much debate over their claims so it will be interesting once I begin my testing. 

Mike


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

*HPA Stage 1 ECU Tune Review.*

My A3 will never be the same.

Deciding on which Stage 1 ECU Tune for my 2.0T A3 was a really difficult decision. It wasn’t because I was afraid that I was going to make a wrong choice and my car would get messed up, wouldn’t run right, or wouldn’t make good power. It was difficult because of the vast amount of GOOD choices. There are just too many. It made my head spin. I mean look: we have APR, GIAC, REVO, HPA, United Motorsport, Unitronic, Eurodyne, and Neuspeed, (did I miss any? Seriously, I could have!?!). 

Honestly, choosing a Stage 1 ECU Tune for the 2.0T is kinda like trying to choose a beer at the Yard House. They have hundreds of beers on tap. They have tons of individual beers in bottles. There are so many recognizable domestic and imported names and brands. Then there are the tempting beers from exotic places and distilleries that you don’t recognize. The variety is absolutely endless. You can choose something you’ve had a hundred times, or you can be adventurous and choose something new. There are tons of individual lite, dark, heavy, and light choices. It’s almost too much. Sometimes you just want to give up and make the bartender, or server decide for you. It’s crazy I tell you!

Just like the beers on tap at the Yard House, all the Stage 1 2.0T ECU Tunes are offered by recognizable names and brands. They have all been in business for years. They all have earned their excellent reputations. Many of us have previously purchased their products. They all offer a similar product and at a similar price. Each different Tune may offer their own special taste and personal touches but, ultimately, they all accomplish the same goal. So, how do you choose which to go with?

See, that’s why I told you. It’s tough to choose a Stage 1 ECU Tune.

I started my search by focusing on what each manufacture had to offer regarding their Tuning software. Were there any options? What was included? What was the price? Have there been any durability and the reliability concerns with the software? Are there any customer reviews? If so, are they favorable? And of course, how much additional power can I expect to gain? 
Most of the manufactures (APR, GIAC, REVO, UM, Eurodyne, and Unitronic) offer their tuning software in stages; Stage 1, Stage 2, and Stage 2+ and each stage represents changes to their performance Tuning software when an intake, intercooler, and exhaust component is added. Neuspeed and HPA have only one performance ECU Tune for the stock K03 turbo, however, according to them, both of their Tunes can automatically adjust for intake, exhaust, and even intercooler modifications so there is no need for additional stages unless, of course, a larger turbo is added to the engine. 

Many of the companies like APR, GIAC, and Revo offer multi-program performance software where the user can switch between a 91/93 octane tune, 100 octane tune, stock, and even valet modes which I understand can be extremely desirable, even at an extra cost. UM, Neuspeed, and HPA do not offer switchable programs but, they turn the tables on the competition by claiming that their ECU Tunes can automatically adjust for different octane fuels rendering the 91, 93, and 100 octane switchable programs useless. 

However, these claims have stirred quite a bit of controversy. The skeptical side of this debate says that since the 2.0T doesn’t have an octane sensor, there is no way the ECU can adjust for different grades of octane. They further go on to explain that the only way for this claim to be true, would be if the Tune is adjusting for the changes in octane based on knock, or detonation. Not good. Yet, conversely, the Companies that offer this tuning ‘feature’ claim that there are a number of layered ignition maps that are correlated on other basis then just knock, and if the engine is operating within the given parameters which, they have fully recalibrated, the ECU will not see anything greater than a 6 degrees ignition retard when using different grades of octane thus producing the performance gains for higher octane fuels.
The debate continues as the skeptical folks claim that there is no way that ONE tune can be fully optimized to deliver perfect results for different octane fuels. They are saying that separate tunes optimized for a specific octane fuels will produce better drivability and a larger increase in power. Personally, I have no idea. Their argument however, makes sense, I must admit. I’ll remain on the fence.

Begin Rant…

During my Stage 1 ECU Tune search there was one thing that really aggravated me. When I’m shopping for a performance part, tune, or otherwise I want to see raw, proven gains for that specific product. But, unfortunately, ALL the Tuning companies advertise their performance improvements measured at the crank, not at the wheel. Crank numbers can often times be vague, generic, and at times, inaccurate.

When I’m spending my hard earned money, I want to see performance gains advertised and measured at the wheel. Real gains. Real results. Why not post the real thing?
The reason; CRANK numbers produce HIGHER numbers that look better to the consumer when compared with real wheel numbers. They want to be able to grab your attention and sell you on the BIG number. But, can we blame them? All the OEM automotive manufactures use this same marketing logic too. How I hate it!

My main issue with crank numbers is that they can be manipulated so much easier than wheel horsepower and wheel torque figures in my experience. 
Case in point: Two major automotive manufactures, Ford and Mazda have produced cars advertising that their crank numbers are one thing but, when the consumers began to independently test their vehicles they found that the actual numbers were far lower than the manufactures claims. In the end, when the dust settled, the manufactures were forced to make concessions to the customers whom purchased those vehicles for their embarrassing marketing errors. 

My favorite advertising offense is the fake crank dyno graph! Really, you are going to advertise a crank dyno graph for your product when there is a really good chance that the consumer will unknowingly believe the crank numbers represent real wheel horsepower and torque numbers? Please. 

APR proudly lists crank horsepower and torque numbers for advertising purposes on their website, like the other Tuners, but they take it a step further with some really confusing details. For example, they show the factory rated 2.0T making 200 HP and 207 TQ on 91 octane while listing their recorded numbers for the stock 2.0T as making 216 HP and 227 TQ on 93 octane. 
Does this mean that I’m going to pick up 16 peak HP and 20 peak TQ without doing anything else but adding 93 Octane to my car? If so, that’s awesome! I’m going to put some 93 octane fuel in my car ASAP! But, the real answer is NO! You’re not going to pick up an additional 16HP/20TQ by putting in 93 octane fuel.

What they aren’t telling you is that the 2.0T has proven time and time again to produce more power than what is claimed and advertised by the manufacture regardless of which octane fuel is used. My 2.0T is no different. 

My completely stock A3 running 91 octane made 190 WHP and 198 WTQ on a DynoJet 220. So what does this mean? How can I compare my WHP/WTQ numbers with APR’s numbers, stock, or otherwise? Well, that’s what is difficult when companies fail to provide actual wheel horsepower and wheel torque results. In order to compare my results with theirs, I need to figure out what correction factor they used to create their crank numbers. Luckily, APR actually lists, albeit in incredibly small print, that the correction factor they use is 10%. Unfortunately, they do not publish which dynamometer they used to obtain their numbers which would really help our comparison.

By applying APR’s correction factor of 10% to my stock A3’s recorded WHP/WTQ numbers we get 209 HP and 218 TQ at the crank on 91 octane where APR is showing 216 HP and 227 TQ on 93 octane. Okay, so 93 octane fuel will produce more power, an additional 7HP/9TQ but, nowhere near the peak gains that are shown on their chart. Now everything makes more sense! I’m glad we could clear that up.

Look, is it fair to pick on APR? No, perhaps not. But they are a leading tuning software company that subscribes to the marketing and advertising confusion that I despise. But, they are not the worst offenders. In addition to fake crank dyno graphs, some manufactures simply list that their tunes will increase power by 35-60 HP and 50-80 TQ. What? Is it 35, or is it 60 HP? Is it 50, or 80 TQ? Pathetic. Make up your mind! Be specific! How much power am I going to gain with your tune? At least APR isn’t afraid of advertising the peak performance gains for their Tunes.

Many will argue that different dynomometers provide different results and they would be correct, but, there are additional correction factors which can be applied to all the different dynos (and conditions) and as long as the consumer knows which dyno the manufactures vehicle was tested on, it will give the consumer something solid to compare their results with. 

For example, I purchased a supercharger kit for one of my other vehicles. The kit was advertised at delivering 190 peak wheel horsepower. I purchased and installed the kit and had my car tested on a Dynojet 248 where it made 187 peak wheel horsepower. Perfect! Testing the car was easy and I was happy with the results and thrilled that the manufacture supplied the wheel horsepower information. I don’t understand why it is so difficult for the VW/Audi Tuners not to offer the same service for their customers. 

Honestly, how hard would it be for the companies to publish the wheel horsepower and wheel torque results? Aren’t their ‘crank’ numbers derived from the wheel figures? Publish them both if you must! Is that really so hard?

Ironically, my point was recently proven online when a forum member asked a question; Crank vs. Wheel? One of the leading Tuners responded as to why they use crank numbers for their products with the typical response, ‘because that’s how everything’s rated across the board’. 

He then proceeded to explain that they don’t use wheel horsepower and torque numbers because wheel numbers will change based on, but not limited to the following: transmission type, wheels, tires, tie-down strap resistance, roller surface, AWD, or FWD, and so on.

He is right! All those factors will change the wheel horsepower and torque results. Yet, he admits that they use the same wheel horsepower and torque numbers to estimate their crank figures. What? If you just said that wheel numbers are so easily affected by so many variables how could you possibly use them to calculate your crank numbers?

Easy, like I’ve said, they apply correction factors which solve each individual inconsistency between each different vehicle type, equipment, and build. They use these correction factors to calculate their crank numbers! They just want you to think that they are the only ones who possess the correct formula. Stupid consumer! You couldn’t possibly understand wheel horsepower figures.

You see! It’s not about accuracy. It is all about the BIGGER, HIGHER, LARGER numbers to get your attention!

While it is not listed on their website, GIAC has posted WHP/WTQ numbers for their Stage 1 ECU tune with and without additional modifications on a couple of the VW/Audi online forums. Way to go gentlemen! That is a good start and I hope that other companies will follow suit and ultimately begin to list these real performance results on their websites.

Personally, I see no problems with advertising wheel horsepower numbers as it will only help the consumer in the end. The Tuning companies should have nothing to fear. Hopefully I make my point.

Okay. 

End rant. Let’s move on.

With my own research completed, to further help assist in my search for a Tune, I sought-out the experts…automotive forums, friends, and even, my local dealership.

The questions I asked were mainly focused on the performance I could expect using the weak California 91 octane fuel (since most Tuners advertise gains using 93 octane…which produces more power) and how my future Stage 1 ECU tune would be affected by adding additional performance modifications like a performance intake, intercooler, down-pipe, exhaust, and a Water/Meth setup.

I had a variety of helpful responses from friends and forum members and they were all greatly appreciated.

I thought it was odd that most of the suggestions instructed me to purchase a Tune from my closest Tuner. I guess that is good advice if you live in an area where your options are limited but, I live in Southern California, and most of the popular Tunes are available locally. I just want to buy the best Tune for my needs and future plans. If that happens to be my closest Tuner, then great but, I didn’t want to base my entire decision on convenience and geography.

Then, there were other suggestions for me to purchase either the APR, or GIAC Tunes because they are by far the most popular Stage 1 Tunes and people are really happy with their product. 
I even asked my local Audi dealer which Tuner they recommended. Ironically, they recommended Neuspeed, my closest Tuner. Go figure. Well, at least they didn’t recommend them because they were the closest; they recommend them because of their experience and history with them.

However, going against all the advice I received online, I was most impressed and intrigued by the Tunes offered by Neuspeed and HPA because unlike most other Stage 1 ECU Tunes, they don’t require additional software or re-flashes for future modifications like a performance air intake, an intercooler, down-pipe, and an exhaust system and no additional maps for different octane fuels (which will be extremely useful when I add a W/M kit). I felt that these innovative features set these two Stage 1 ECU Tunes apart from the rest of the competition and sounded the best for me and my needs. 

Similar to politics and government, people like to hear what they want to hear, and not necessarily, what is best for them. So going along with that tradition, I decided to narrow my options to 
Neuspeed and HPA because they provided me with the most ‘free’ benefits.

Unfortunately, what killed Neuspeed is that they don’t offer a K04 Tune and if I decide to go that route in the future, I would have to have my car re-Tuned by another company which, would suck. HPA does. I went with HPA.

I not only chose HPA because of the features they offered in their Stage 1 ECU Tune but, because I have a good history with. They Tuned both the ECU and the DSG in my 2008 VW R32. I never had one issue. I was very happy with their product. I don’t see any reason to believe that their 2.0T Tune will be any different in terms of performance and reliability.

I’ve heard some say that the HPA entered the 2.0T Tuning game way too late, their Stage 1 Tune is overpriced, and there is no room for another ‘new’ kid on the performance-tuning block but, I don’t see it that way. HPA is offering some very unique ECU software features that have been pioneered, tested, and proven during their successful and on-going 2.0T racing program. This alone should solidify their position in the 2.0T Tuning market. 

I believe their Stage 1 Tune is original and authentic and their pricing is extremely competitive IF their auto-adjusting and auto-optimizing claims for different octane fuel and future modifications are accurate.

In the end, my decision had to be based on the company that delivered a Tune that offered the most features for my unique situation and future plans. As mentioned before it is a tough decision because all the Tuners offer a product for my unique situation. 
Still, I felt that HPA offered a little more.

Alright, the Installation.

I’ll admit, I’m not a computer guy and I was a bit nervous performing the download/upload ECU Tuning process myself. I don’t understand computers and I don’t like them. However, I’ve modifying cars for years so I figured I could get through it. I was right. 
HPA really makes this process easy. The Flash Tool kit is shipped in a professional double box package next day air. The outside box has all your shipping information and the inside box has all HPA’s return shipping information. So once you are finished, all you need to do put the Flash Tool in the box, seal it, drop it off at any UPS location for return. Simple, convenient and everything was done at my home. 

Huh, come to think of it, I guess HPA was my closest Tuner! LOL! 

Anyway, once the HPA software was installed on my computer, I plugged the HPA Flashing Tool into the OBD II port under the dash and started the reading process. Once finished, I saved the ECU files on my laptop and emailed them to HPA so they can be modified and sent back. This process took about 25 minutes. The next day I received an email with the modified ECU from HPA. I then quickly plugged my laptop back into the OBD II port and began the writing process which took about 35 minutes. As expected everything went smoothly. When finished, I eagerly but, carefully, disconnected all the equipment and prepared myself for my first drive with the newly modified HPA ECU Tuning. Here we go!

The most common phrase I read and hear about regarding any 2.0T Stage 1 ECU performance tuning is that “the car should have come like this from the factory”. We’ll, that endlessly repeated statement, is true! The 2.0T should have come like this from the factory. My A3 is no longer the same. Thank God! 

The first thing I noticed was the razor sharp and immediate throttle response brought on by the new Tuning. There is no pause, there is no hesitation. The throttle response is excellent both on, and off boost. This alone is a huge improvement over the stock tuning. In addition, the acceleration is effortless and the power delivery is smooth, seamless, and very strong. Just the way I like it. The new-found power is intoxicating. It is definitely worth the price of admission!

While stock, passing other cars was a virtual chess match because if challenged, I was always unsure if my A3 had enough power to pass; now, I no longer need to worry. My HPA Tuned A3 easily overtakes other cars on the highway with a surge determined confidence. I love the immediate sensation of speed and power pushing my body into the seat. The torque is so strong and broad you actually start to wonder if HPA manufactured a way to inject an unknown number of additional cylinders and more engine displacement through the OBD II port. Is that possible? But, then, I hear the eager K03 turbo spool, whistle, and hiss in precious agony thus creating the V6 like surge of power and of course, it is because of these angry and brutal whooshing turbo sounds that bring my wondering mind back to the reality that the engine propelling my vicious A3 is in fact, a turbo 4 cylinder. Yet, the low end torque brought on by the Tune is truly comparable in strength to a much larger displacement engine. Really! No, I am serious! Take a look at this…










My A3 was tested by Tom at EFI West in Camarillo California on his DynoJet 220xlc and made an impressive 216 peak wheel horsepower and 235 peak wheel torque using 91 octane fuel. 

Here is another dynograph comparing my 100% stock A3 vs. the HPA Stage 1 ECU Tuned A3.










The HPA Stage 1 ECU Tune produced an additional 26 peak wheel horsepower and 37 peak wheel torque on 91 octane fuel. Nice!

HPA’s experience and command of the factory ECU software really shine in their Stage 1 ECU Tune. They have produced an excellent blend of innovative features and performance for the 2.0T. HPA’s connection with their 2.0T racing program is always present every time you press the accelerator pedal. 

Good job HPA!

I will be logging and posting some additional dyno results for 100 octane and W/M to test The HPA Stage 1 ECU Tune for its ability to fully optimize and adjust for changes in octane fuels…Stay Tuned!

Mike


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

Very impressive research (and rant!); a very useful post for those considering ecu tunes! And, at the risk of repeating various words, very impressive results from the HPA ecu tune! 
There's nothing like a smile on your face, eh? :thumbup:


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

kgw said:


> Very impressive research (and rant!); a very useful post for those considering ecu tunes! And, at the risk of repeating various words, very impressive results from the HPA ecu tune!
> There's nothing like a smile on your face, eh? :thumbup:


Agreed. My research took some time... But, I'm smiling! 

I'm happy. The Tune did what it was supposed to do.
I've dyno'd the car a ton...The APR Carbonio Intake has already been added and dyno'd but, I need to finish writing the review. Plus, I want to post the HPA DSG review first (which I'll do later in the week). 

Mike


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## biff2bart (Dec 5, 2011)

Hey, just wanted to say that you put up a great post there!

I think stage 1 tunes on these cars are absolutely one of the first mods any A3 owner should do. I did mine a few months ago and couldn't be happier with the results!

I - like a lot of people - have an APR stage 1 tune. I have obviously spent a lot of time looking through their website and reading numbers, graphcs, charts, etc...

I like your rant section, but I have to admit I was a bit surprise with the comments on the APR stock vs. measured power numbers. I don't think that they are trying to fool anyone here: I took the information differently than you and I think what they are trying to say is the following:

VAG lists these engines as making 200 / 207 HP / TQ on 91 fuel. However, in reality, most VAG products use conservative ratings (so that they DON'T have to deal with what Ford / Mazda dealt with). I think what APR is saying is that if you're going to be getting an APR performance tune, most likely you will be getting a 93 tune (if you have that option in your area). Hence, what they want to show you is that - realistically, if you put 93 in your car with a stock ECU, you're going to be getting perhaps a bit more power from the 93 over the 91, but you're also going to measure higher power numbers than the 200 / 207 rating because the factory specs are conservative.

So, I think in this case, APR is actually be _honest_ and conservative about what the expected gains would be because they've raised the stock baseline from 200 / 207 to 216 / 227. This - hence - decreases the amount of power gain they would be promising. 

Look at it this way - they could have said:
"Oh, VAG lists the car at 200 / 207, but with our 91 Stage 1 ECU program, you get 250 / 294 (HP / TQ), so Wow-wee, that's an increase of 50hp and 87 ft-lbs at the crank!"

However, what they actually said is: 
"Well, since most customers are going to go for a 93 octane program if they can, let's find out what the stock power measures with 93 octane: Ok, that's 216 / 227. Now, with our stage 1 ECU tune, we measure 254 / 303, a difference of 38HP and 76 ft-lbs."

You can see that they have actually decreased their tune benefits from 50 HP down to 38HP, and from 87 ft-lbs down to 76 ft-lbs, so their marketing is actually more conservative than what they could have done.

By comparison, HPA lists their stage 1 tune as 45HP and 75 ft-lbs of TQ, so actually more aggressive than what APR is listing on their site. Interesting eh?

I'm no APR fanboy (and they certainly have some slightly elitist comments on their site, such as "DSG flash not required, as it is from lesser tuners", etc...) but I think they are certainly one of the most professional companies in this marketplace and they have invested pretty seriously in their product line. Obviously, companies like HPA are perhaps a bit more niche, but have a very strong following for their VR6 mods, full performance vehicles, Haldex mods, DSG flash, etc... (the last two are on my mod list eventually). As you mentioned, there are some really good companies out there.

That being said, a friend who just purchased an Audi A4 All Road was quoted by the dealer for a Stasis Stage 1 tune at $1500 , _plus two hours of labour_ (!!!!). The dealer salesman stated 350hp and and 400 ft-lbs of torque as well! I had to let my friend know that first off, the numbers are way too high, that secondly the price quoted by the dealer is a total rip off, thirdly this wasn't AoA approved - and in fact - could eliminate part of his brand new vehicle's warranty (especially now that AoA has formally severed any ties that they "never had" with Stasis), and that Stasis was in full damage control because they were probably going out of business. 

So, we can all be happy with our more respectable tuning companies 

All of that being said, I'm in the process of getting a K04 setup into the car so I am really excited to see how that turns out. Let us know how your HPA stage 1 goes - I didn't even realize that they brought out 2.0TSI tunes (or K04 setups): that wasn't an option from them a few months ago. That would be very cool if the tune works as advertised. HPA are smart guys - if the tune does what they say it does, they will have created a nice, innovative product that steps up the game in this market place.

PS: I - like others - will look forward to your Carbonio and DSG review.


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## GunKata (Apr 4, 2006)

Good stuff, Mike. Appreciate the thorough write-up


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

^^^^
Thank you!

biff2bart,

I’m not trying to be unfair. APR is an excellent company, I have a lot of respect for them, and I am very happy that they do provide so much information on their website. They offer more information to their customers than any other Tuner.

I don’t think you and I are the norm. I wasn’t confused by the information and nor were you. However, during my research I showed these numbers and charts to friends and family to get their opinions. They were always a bit confused by the representation which is why I decided to include it in my review. In addition, I would much rather see APR list THEIR numbers for both 91 and 93 octane. I believe this would clear up a lot of confusion. Plus, as I said in my review, I would be thrilled for them to list actual wheel horsepower and wheel torque results and which type of dynomometer they use for testing. That, would be excellent.

I can’t argue with you, HPA’s claims are more aggressive than APR’s while comparing their results with my 91 octane dyno.

More competition is good and I have a feeling that I’ll be upgrading the K04 at some time in the future.

Mike


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## [email protected] (Jul 29, 2008)

Turn8 said:


> I would much rather see APR list THEIR numbers for both 91 and 93 octane.


We try, but that's not always possible for every stage, especially if the software is revisited at a later point in time. Also sometimes we like to go back and recollect all of the numbers one after each other, with all different modifications, ( stage 1, stage 1 with intake, stage 2 with exhaust, stage 2 with intake and exhaust) and throwing in multiple octanes means potentially skewed results.


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## Fellow Gaucho (Aug 3, 2011)

Amazing post Turn8. I am looking for an ecu flash in the future and people like me appreciate the time you took to post your thoughts and what you found :thumbup:


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## drew138 (Dec 3, 2006)

JPK_ said:


> Maybe its just me.. but i was instantly reminded of a star wars battle droid when I saw those headrests.


Same thought. Thank you for finding the picture and saving me the trouble. LOL


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> We try, but that's not always possible for every stage, especially if the software is revisited at a later point in time. Also sometimes we like to go back and recollect all of the numbers one after each other, with all different modifications, ( stage 1, stage 1 with intake, stage 2 with exhaust, stage 2 with intake and exhaust) and throwing in multiple octanes means potentially skewed results.


Hey Arin,

I greatly appreciate all the information and details that you do provide on your website for your customers.

It would be awesome if you could provide your numbers on 91 octane but, I fully understand the reasons why you don't. However, in the future, if you can...it would be great.

I'm sending you a PM regarding a technical question...hopefully you can save me a call to your offices.

Mike


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

Fellow Gaucho said:


> Amazing post Turn8. I am looking for an ecu flash in the future and people like me appreciate the time you took to post your thoughts and what you found :thumbup:


Thank you! :beer:

Mike


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## drew138 (Dec 3, 2006)

headrest replacement options.

http://reviews.cnet.com/car-electro...ersal-dual/4505-3424_7-33723297.html?tag=cntv


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## GunKata (Apr 4, 2006)

I just wish the K04 put down more power on the AWD platform :banghead::laugh:


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## Fellow Gaucho (Aug 3, 2011)

GunKata said:


> I just wish the K04 put down more power on the AWD platform :banghead::laugh:


I feel you man 

As was said before, t is all about the feeling and experience though :thumbup:


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## GunKata (Apr 4, 2006)

Fellow Gaucho said:


> I feel you man
> 
> As was said before, t is all about the feeling and experience though :thumbup:


indeed, it does feel awesome, just thought it would be more on par with a stage 2 Golf R, not close to a Stage 1.


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## asal (Oct 12, 2007)

cool thread, just reading up on it. I too appreciate the rants & opinions; injects good info and personality :thumbup:

also always like seeing another black A3 w/mods


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

^^^^
Thank you! I hope to keep it going... 
The DSG Flash review will be posted later this week!



GunKata said:


> I just wish the K04 put down more power on the AWD platform :banghead::laugh:


I hear you. 
Bottom line...if the car is stronger and more enjoyable to drive then, that's golden!

However, for me, my curious side always gets the best of me. So, I'd probable try to have the car re-dyno'd on a FWD dyno to compare. In addition, what dyno did you test on? 

Mike


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## GunKata (Apr 4, 2006)

It was on a Mustang dyno, aka "The Heartbreaker"...


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

GunKata said:


> It was on a Mustang dyno, aka "The Heartbreaker"...


Agreed. I hear you...
I have plenty of experience with Mustang dyno's.

The Super Flow is pretty tough too.

Mike


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

*HPA DSG Stage 2 Upgrade.*

We like the DSG for its originality, technology, convenience, and performance. The DSG is unique because it is an auto-shifting gearbox. Most other automatic transmissions are ‘slush-boxes’ containing a traditional torque converter, clutches, valves, pumps, solenoids, and valve-bodies. The DSG doesn’t share the same internal parts and components like most automatic transmissions and it is more similar to a traditional manual gearbox than a traditional automatic. When it was first put into production, there were truly, no other comparable transmissions on the market. Today, it seems that every other automotive manufacture is attempting to build a transmission similar to the DSG. 

So, if the DSG is so darn good, so innovative, and performs so well, why would there be any need to modify it? How can you improve it? What changes could be made? Simple, the programming. 

While the DSG itself maybe one of the best auto-shifting transmissions ever made, it still relies on a brain, a module, something called a mechatronic, to control all the clutch and shifting functions. Luckily, changes can be made to the mechatronic programming to improve the performance and reliability of the DSG transmission. 

Let me explain. 

The DSG has three separate user-selected driving modes. The Auto mode, Manual mode, and Sport mode. They each have a different but, self-explanatory function. 

Here’s the problem, the more I drive my A3, the more I find fault with all three modes of the DSG’s factory programming. 

The Auto mode is trash. Absolute trash! It is full of strange drivability hiccups and awful surging issues. The DSG doesn’t know how to leave smoothly from a stop, or how to modulate the clutches in a parking lot at slow speeds. How did the factory miss this? In addition, can anyone explain why, in Auto mode, the DSG will shift into fourth gear while travelling through a short intersection, from a dead stop? Do I really need to be in fourth gear at 20 MPH? Do I really need to be in sixth gear at 35 MPH? 

In Auto mode, while leaving from an intersection, I have trouble getting ahead of traffic because the transmission will not hold a gear long enough for me to pick up some speed! I can’t out-accelerate anyone around me! The DSG won’t stop up-shifting! During these events I can sense the DSG finding pleasure by completely pissing me off. 
But, that’s not all. 
There are times when I’m cruising at 45 MPH in sixth gear (Yes, that is correct, sixth gear!) and a situation presents itself where I need to accelerate. I lightly press the throttle which you obviously think will result in a down-shift and an increase in speed but, instead, I sit there, coasting, waiting for something to happen. Only after an unpleasant and forever-long delay does the DSG decide on what it wants to do and react. But, by this time, the entire reason for accelerating has past and I’m left there depressed, deflated, and dumbfounded. Seriously, this happens, all the time! 
I figure that if the DSG wants to be in sixth gear at such an ungodly speed, that it could at least be prepared to down-shift and get moving when you need it to, but, no! It doesn’t want to! 

The only way around these bizarre and infuriating situations is to completely ‘floor’ the accelerator pedal so the DSG understands how serious you are. This action, will then engage multiple down-shifts that unfortunately take way too long but, at least you will eventually start moving faster. However, you never know if the DSG’s reaction will be fast enough for you to accomplish your goal. The thought of having to perform a ‘full-throttle’ action for such a simple task is completely unnecessary. No, it’s actually ridiculous! 

The DSG’s factory programming is so slow and lazy you almost feel bad about making it do anything it doesn’t want to do. Driving the DSG in Auto mode is no more fun than dealing with a virus on your computer. Better yet, driving the DSG in auto mode is like being forced to call the Cable Company, it’s that frustrating! 

The reason why this happens is because the DSG is programmed for fuel economy and it is also trying to prepare and anticipate for its next shift. However, when you deviate from its plan, it freaks. I understand Audi and VW programmed the DSG for fuel economy but, this is unacceptable! 

The Sport mode has the same drivability hiccups and surging issues that are experienced in the Auto mode. Luckily, though, the Sport mode won’t up-shift nearly as often as the Auto mode, so it is more fun to drive. However, have you ever driven on the track in Sport mode? The Sport mode still up-shifts way too early and will not allow you to hold gears when you want, or need to. Like, on a race track while driving through a corner! In fact, I never use Sport mode because quite frankly, it takes the ‘Sport’ out of driving. 

The Manual mode is by far the best driving mode of the DSG. I spend all my driving time in Manual mode. However, it is also not immune to the drivability hiccups and surging issues as experienced in the other modes. In addition, if you aren’t traveling quickly, the response from the paddle shifters are too slow and the DSG won’t change gears when you need it to. I’ve experienced huge delays before the transmission actually responds to my inputs. There is no excuse for this! Moreover, up-shifts and especially down-shifts aren’t nearly as fast as you would expect. Furthermore, the most obscene Manual mode offense is if you attempt to accelerate at full-throttle, or hit the rev-limiter under acceleration, the DSG will actually up-shift and down-shift automatically! What! There is nothing Manual about that! 

So what is the solution to these issues? What is the cure? 

Simple. The HPA DSG Stage 2 upgrade. 

The HPA DSG Stage 2 upgrade features a progressive shift response, increased torque limit, enabled launch control, and eliminated automatic shifting in M and S modes (up to 95% throttle). Two features that are not being used for my A3 include the elevated rev-limiter (which can be enabled if necessary) and the in-dash gear display which, my A3 already has. 

The installation. 

The installation process is straight forward. It can be done by HPA, an authorized dealer, or yourself. It is that easy. All the information is read and uploaded through the factory OBD port under the left side of the dashboard, or the DSG port under the hood underneath the air cleaner assembly. All you need to do is simply plug the HPA tool into the OBD/DSG port and let the magic happen. The information that is taken from the car is sent to HPA for them to analyze and recode. Once that has been done, the HPA tool is reconnected to the OBD/DSG port and the new programming is uploaded. The whole process takes about an hour, which can seem like a year, when you are sweating with sweet anticipation. 

How does it work? What is it like? 

The Auto mode basically remains unchanged with the HPA DSG Stage 2 upgrade. The only difference with the HPA Stage 2 and the factory programmed DSG, is quicker shift times and the elimination of the majority of low-speed drivability hiccups, and surging. Which is nice but, that’s it. So, unfortunately, the factory programmed up-shifting shenanigans and frustrations remain. In order to have HPA solve all the DSG Auto mode issues you have to go with their Stage 3 DSG programming where all the calibrations of the Auto mode are changed. I personally don’t drive in Auto mode, so I don’t care but, for those of you that do, you either have to fork-out some more cash, or go with a different DSG upgrade. 

The Sport mode is modified with quicker shifts, the elimination of most low-speed hiccups and surging, and by enabling the DSG to hold gears longer, up to 95% throttle, which will help during spirited and track driving. The improvements are significant but, still not enough to tempt me to use it on a regular basis. I honestly didn’t spend much time trying to explore the extent of HPA’s Sport mode modifications because I was looking forward to the M mode. 

The HPA modified M mode performance is what this upgrade is all about. Driving with the Stage 2 DSG upgrade is an absolute blast! The most notable improvements are the quicker shifts, no automatic up-shifting, or down-shifting, much faster response from the paddle shifters, a 3,700 RPM launch control feature, and like the other two modes, the virtual elimination of the surging and hiccups at low-speeds. 

Yeah, that’ll leave a mark. 

Haha! Launch control. Select M mode and press the ESP button while pushing the brake pedal with your left foot. Then, gently press on the accelerator pedal with your right foot to bring up the RPM’s. When they reach the limit, release the brake pedal and mash the accelerator pedal to the floor. That, is how you engage the new launch control feature. 
With the HPA DSG Stage 2 launch control set at 3,700 RPM’s combined with a HPA’s Stage 1 ECU tune, my FWD A3 shreds the tires with ease producing an epic cloud of smoke. It makes me feel like I’m sixteen again. The tires don’t stand a chance with the amount of power available at 3,700 RPM’s. HPA’s launch control feature is a gloriously violent event which I find extremely enjoyable. I don’t think that the launch control will help my acceleration times (well, maybe with slick tires) but, the fun factor has been raised exponentially. It will definitely impress your friends and on-lookers. Just make sure you know who is watching. Folks will definitely take notice and sadly, not everybody enjoys a good burn-out. 
In my opinion, to take full advantage of the HPA launch control, you really need to have AWD, but since my A3 is FWD, I’ll just have to work on my throttle modulation. Or not! 

The new and improved HPA programming shifts fast, real fast. I can even feel and sense the change in normal driving but, once I start driving aggressively, man, the DSG makes some super-fast shifts. They claim that the DSG shifts 60% faster with their Stage 2 upgrade, yeah, I believe it! The DSG responds immediately to my paddle shifter inputs and each shift engagement is way more solid, positive, and much more direct than before. The down-shifts are also more direct, mechanical, solid, and much faster. I don’t know if it is due to the changes to the clutch programming but, the car just feels stronger during acceleration. 

In addition, it’s nice to be able to give my A3 full-throttle and not have the DSG down-shift automatically. Moreover, I like having the ability to bounce of the rev-limiter in each gear if I want to. Though, I don’t plan on making that a habit. Finally! No automatic shifting in Manual mode! 

My DSG experience has definitely been improved and enhanced by HPA. The HPA Stage 2 DSG upgrade virtually eliminated all the quirks, hiccups, surging, and ridiculous delays caused by the factory programming. The features of the Stage 2 upgrade function flawlessly. It’s funny how the factory couldn’t get it right. Thank God, we have companies like HPA that are willing to invest their time and money to correct and improve the DSG’s performance for the enthusiast. The new HPA Stage 2 programming is all business and it gets the job done. It performs as advertised and it is too much fun and far too effective to ignore. 

If you have a DSG equipped vehicle, use M mode, and have yet to install a DSG upgrade, then you don’t know what you are missing, because… You are missing everything! You can’t go wrong with HPA’s DSG stage 2 upgrade. This upgrade is worth every penny. 

Mike


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

+10³ 

I had the HPA DSG tune done by Marcel when he did the first trip around North America several years ago. Complete win! The power band is in your control with the tune.


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## kharma (Jan 2, 2004)

I can't believe I just read this whole thread. That's enough labor for today


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

^^^^ 
Awesome! 
Hopefully, it was worth it!  :beer: 



kgw said:


> +10³
> 
> I had the HPA DSG tune done by Marcel when he did the first trip around North America several years ago. Complete win! The power band is in your control with the tune.


 Agreed. 

This is a MUST mod for the DSG! 

Now, I just NEED some S2T paddle shifters!  

Mike


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

*APR Carbonio Stage 1 and Stage 2 intake.*

I’ll admit, I’m a whore for real high quality authentic materials. I don’t care what I’m shopping for… automotive, home, business, ect., if it looks like leather, I want real leather, if it looks like wood, I want real wood, if it looks like aluminum, I want real aluminum, and so on. 

Carbon Fiber and Titanium are my two favorite materials (no, I don’t own the carbon fiber toilet seat, even I have limits). Over the years I’ve purchased and installed plenty of Carbon Fiber and Titanium products on my vehicles. 

When I began researching performance air intakes for my 2.0T A3, there was one performance intake that really got my interest quick, the APR Carbonio Performance Intake System. Why did it so easily capture my attention? Price? Performance? No. It demanded my immediate attention because it is made from real authentic aerospace grade carbon fiber. 

The APR Carbonio intake system retails for $299 which is more, or less competitive with all the other performance intakes available for the 2.0T. But, since the APR Carbonio intake is constructed entirely from real authentic carbon fiber, I had to own one. 

The APR Carbonio intake system is offered in both a Stage 1 and a Stage 2. The Stage 1 is the main box that contains the air filter and all the components that make this intake functional. The Stage 2 turbocharger inlet pipe is a super-smooth fantastic looking add-on, which, of course, is made with the same exceptional grade of carbon fiber. The Stage 2 pipe is essentially unnecessary, costs another $199, and is said, to not produce any performance benefits but, who cares when it looks so freaking good. I literally can’t get enough carbon fiber goodness so obviously I ordered both the Stage 1 and Stage 2 intake components. 

The APR Carbonio performance intake is claimed to increase horsepower and torque, enhanced turbo sounds, reduce turbo spool time and turbo ‘lag’, increase air velocity, provide smoother transitional air-flow, reduce intake temperatures, improve fuel economy, and increase throttle response. 
Man, that’s some list of improvements. I’m just happy it’s made from real carbon fiber. If it happens to provide any of these additional benefits, well, than that’s a bonus. 

The APR Carbonio intake comes with detailed instructions that are easy to read and understand. It is shipped with all the necessary hardware for installation, however, since my 2.0T has a CBFA engine code, I did have to order a special APR breather filter to compliment my intake. In addition, I had read that some folks had issues with the intake rubbing on certain parts under the hood, so to avoid any potential issues; I ordered the solution, a Modshack APR Carbonio bracket. This bracket positions the intake perfectly so there won’t be any interference with the intake or any other component. Plus, I don’t want to damage the beautiful carbon fiber, or its lovely finish. 

The APR Carbonio intake is supposed to install without any cutting, or modifications but, unfortunately, during my installation, I did have to trim and remove some material from the Carbon Fiber box assembly to fit the tight front-grille ram-air section of my A3. After this was done, however, the Stage 1 portion of the intake was installed in minutes. Super easy. The installation of the Stage 2 pipe was straight forward and easy. No problems. I was extra cautious and took a little extra time making sure the pipe was installed and positioned properly before I tightened everything down. Once finished, I was very pleased the overall fitment and of course, the appearance. 



















What can I say about the appearance? It is awesome. It couldn’t be better. The intake looks super clean in the engine bay and the carbon fiber truly has a show quality finish. I’m impressed. It quenches my thriving and unyielding thirst for real authentic carbon fiber. This intake belongs on an F1 race car but, I’m happy it fits on my A3. 

Hammer down! 

I don’t know if it was necessary but, after the intake was installed, I let the engine idle for 10 minutes to let the ECU re-calibrate itself while I took in the new sounds from the intake. On the road the first thing I noticed was that the APR intake is louder than the stock box and while it does produce some new interesting turbo sounds, they weren’t nearly as loud, or obnoxious as I was lead to believe. This intake is nowhere near as loud as the Carbonio intake I had on my 1.8T. I can easily live with the ‘enhanced’ sounds of this intake on a daily basis. 
The APR Carbonio intake definitely improves the throttle response. It is noticeable. The new intake seems to spool the turbo a little quicker and allow for better acceleration and even though I think I can feel a slight increase in power, especially in the upper RPM’s, I can’t be sure. My butt-dyno has never been too accurate. 

For fun, I had my A3 dyno’d on a DynoJet 220 to see if there were any real performance gains from the new APR Carbonio intake. This dyno graph compares the stock intake vs. the APR Carbonio intake combined with the HPA Stage 1 Tune. 

Let’s take a look at the results. 

Dyno: 









As you can see, my A3 lost power from idle to 6,000 RPMs with the APR Carbonio intake, but, gained power from 6,000 to 6,500 RPMs. The total peak gains from the intake were 2whp and 0wtq. 

Boost Dyno: 









I was a little surprised by these results. I knew the intake was going to make more power in the upper RPM’s but, I truly thought the intake would make the same, or perhaps a little more power throughout the RPM range. Since the intake was installed while the car was on the dyno and ran after it had already logged several dyno runs it is possible that the car had become too heat-soaked, or that the ECU wasn’t given enough time to re-calibrate, causing the intakes poor dyno performance. I don’t know for sure but, either way, I’m keeping the intake. 

The APR Carbonio intakes solid construction of real authentic aerospace quality carbon fiber delivers a stunning appearance. It looks fantastic and gives me an excuse to open my hood for any opportunity. With the Modshack bracket in place, the APR/Carbonio intake fits perfectly. Moreover, the APR Carbonio intake offers a noticeable boost in throttle response, reduced turbo ‘lag’, and additional power in the upper RPM’s that can be altogether proven, witnessed, and felt. The enhanced turbo sounds are highly subjective but, with my driving style, I welcome them. I think the APR Carbonio intake is a great value and I’m happy with my purchase. 

Mike


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## Fellow Gaucho (Aug 3, 2011)

The boost was a lot higher, which you'd think would increase power. Maybe that indicates the ecu hasn't adjusted?


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

^^^^ 
Precisely. 

The car was dyno'd again yesterday but, I was using a different fuel so I can't be entirely sure of my assumptions. However, I believe that after driving the car for several miles that the ECU did adjust and that the power I lost from idle to 6,000 RPM's has re-appeared. 

So, ultimately, I don't think there is a loss in power from idle-6,000 RPM's. However, I don't think the APR Carbonio intake gained any power from idle-6,000 RPM's either. The only gains were in the upper RPM's. 

Only another dyno on 91 octane with the car in this configuration will prove my assumptions. I should have another opportunity if everything comes together at the right time. 

Mike


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

The benefits of an intake aren't necessarily found on a dyno that doesn't simulate real-world airflow.


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## biff2bart (Dec 5, 2011)

I don't know if this is the same situation, but I had my Carbonio intake installed a the same time my APR ECU flash was done. It took about 2-3 hours of solid driving before the full power of the flash was available from the engine.


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## [email protected] (Jul 29, 2008)

On an otherwise stock car, we found the intake to make a little bit of a gain, but typically only towards redline. This is because the ECU will sense in increase in mass airflow, and will dial back power to keep everything in line. 

That changes when you're on our stage 1 software. We've given just enough room for adjustment to take advantage fo the stage 1 intake. Firstly, the stock intake is restrictive, so the stage 1 software can take advantage of the higher flowing intake, and secondly, it's not dialing back power as much, especially towards redline. 

I'd like to see the results if you switched software providers. :thumbup:


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## [email protected] (Jul 29, 2008)

On an otherwise stock car, we found the intake to make a little bit of a gain, but typically only towards redline. This is because the ECU will sense in increase in mass airflow, and will dial back power to keep everything in line. 

That changes when you're on our stage 1 software. We've given just enough room for adjustment to take advantage fo the stage 1 intake. Firstly, the stock intake is restrictive, so the stage 1 software can take advantage of the higher flowing intake, and secondly, it's not dialing back power as much, especially towards redline. 

I'd like to see the results if you switched software providers.


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## Fellow Gaucho (Aug 3, 2011)

crew219 said:


> The benefits of an intake aren't necessarily found on a dyno that doesn't simulate real-world airflow.


Good point. Never thought of it that way.

So Arin, the software does adjust then on its own? That's pretty cool :thumbup:


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

^^^^
Agreed!



[email protected] said:


> On an otherwise stock car, we found the intake to make a little bit of a gain, but typically only towards redline. This is because the ECU will sense in increase in mass airflow, and will dial back power to keep everything in line.
> 
> That changes when you're on our stage 1 software. We've given just enough room for adjustment to take advantage fo the stage 1 intake. Firstly, the stock intake is restrictive, so the stage 1 software can take advantage of the higher flowing intake, and secondly, it's not dialing back power as much, especially towards redline.
> 
> I'd like to see the results if you switched software providers.


Interesting. 

As you can see, the intake clearly added boost throughout much of the RPM band which should translate to an increase in power. I'm very tempted to test-out your theory regarding the software.

Mike


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

*100 Octane review.*

The HPA Stage 1 ECU Tune is advertised as having the ability to automatically adjust to simple engine modifications and 91, 93, and 100 octane fuels thus negating the need for additional tunes, programs, and stages.

I believe it is pretty much common knowledge that you can’t expect any improvements in efficiency or, performance by running a higher octane fuel in an engine that isn’t designed or programmed for it. Like, for example, filling up a Toyota Corolla with 100 octane. I’m sorry, you aren’t going to make any additional power or increase your gas mileage with 100 octane. In fact, you are probably going to hurt the engine performance since the car won’t be running as efficiently with the high octane fuel. In this case, the adding 100 octane would be a complete waste of time and money. Seriously, in a stock Toyota Corolla, stick with the 87 octane as suggested and published in the owner’s manual.

Luckily, we don’t own Toyota Corolla’s (well, some of us might) and our VW/Audi 2.0T engines can and will benefit from 100 octane fuels if properly tuned for it.

I’ve had my 2009 A3 dyno’d with the HPA Stage 1 ECU software on several occasions. The most recent dyno was done to test the HPA Tune’s ability to auto-adjust and auto-optimize for 100 octane.

Originally, with 91 octane, my A3 made 216whp/235wtq with only the HPA Stage 1 ECU Tune. My next dyno session was with the HPA Tune and APR Carbonio intake which produced 218whp/235wtq. My most recent dyno was with the HPA Stage 1 HPA ECU Tune, APR Carbonio intake, and 100 octane.

The dyno results:









On 100 octane it made 229whp/273wtq which is an increase of 11whp/38wtq over the 91 octane. The HPA Stage 1 Tune with 100 octane produced an additional 39whp/75wtq over the factory tune. Freaking awesome!

Going back to our Toyota Corolla example, when a car is not Tuned for a specific fuel it can actually HURT performance. In this case, the 100 octane fuel increased the performance of my 2.0T which means that the HPA Stage 1 ECU software is in-fact pre-programmed for 100 octane and it CAN auto-adjust and auto-optimize for higher octane fuels. I am impressed.
These results provide definitive proof to their auto-optimizing claims.

Yeah, yeah, yeah…
But, how does it feel…What is it like to drive the car with 100 octane.

Well, the dyno numbers aren’t lying; with 100 octane my car is a beast. It is angry. The car is a lot more powerful and accelerates faster, when I can find traction. If I roll on the throttle in second, once the boost spikes, the extra power will shred the tires all the way to redline. It didn’t do that with 91 octane. 
Furthermore, the 100 octane brought on a unique power-surge that is hard to explain. Sure, there is a ton of extra torque in the low RPM’s but, in the middle to high RPM’s, there is a burst of power that makes it feel as if, the small K03 turbo isn’t running out of breathe. Ironically, this bizarre power-surge combination makes the power delivery feel linear, which isn’t something you would expect from a Stage 1 Tune.

HPA isn’t the only company offering 100 octane programming for their Stage 1 2.0T software. Both APR and GIAC offer the same feature, but only with a specific and separate 100 octane file which of course, comes at an extra cost. There aren’t too many independent Dynojet examples illustrating the performance boost that the APR and GIAC Stage 1 100 octane Tunes produce but, I found a few Dynojet examples online showing the APR Stage 1 100 octane Tune with intake making 231whp/281wtq and the GIAC Stage 1 100 octane with intake producing 234whp/271wtq. Compared with my HPA 100 octane dyno results, the APR and GIAC 100 octane specific files produce slightly better peak numbers but, I have to be happy with the gains I’ve experienced from 91 to 100 octane with the HPA software and, I didn’t have to switch files.

Overall, as you can tell, I’m mightily impressed with the Stage 1 100 octane numbers and results! Why so impressive? Well, because this is really cheap power. For the cost of a Tune, the fuel, and a performance intake, you can make a ton of extra power.
Who would have thought you could make 229whp/273wtq with just a Tune, an intake, and 100 octane gas? Incredible.

The Stage 1 with 100 octane almost produces as much power as the APR/GIAC Stage 2 packages on 93 octane. The APR Stage 2 makes an average of 246whp/287wtq while the GIAC Stage 2 averages 241whp/286wtq and we’ve already discussed what the Stage 1 on 100 octane makes. In reality, you are only giving up an average of 10whp/10wtq with the Stage 1 100 octane file. Plus with the Stage 2, it doesn’t just include software but, you need to purchase hardware, like a turbo down-pipe and supporting modifications which can cost a lot of cash. Is it really worth it?

I know there were a lot of skeptics out there regarding HPA’s auto-adjusting and auto-optimizing claims. In my opinion and with my experience testing the HPA Stage 1 ECU Tune, my results show that their auto-optimizing claims are true. The definitive proof is in the numbers, the software, and in the 100 octane fuel.

My next performance modification will be Water/Methanol injection, so I’m obviously looking forward to testing the 100 octane vs. the Water/Meth injection. I’m not sure which type of fuel will provide the best power or how the delivery of fuel will affect the results but, I can’t wait to find out!

Stay tuned…

Mike


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## Fellow Gaucho (Aug 3, 2011)

Good post/update. It is nice to see how higher octane gas proves to make a significant difference.

You say/showed that since numbers increased with higher gas that the ecu adjusted. However, this increase in numbers also results when done to the stock ecu (atleast from data I have seen online). Do you think the stock ecu also adjusts like HPA? 

It would seem to me that APR chips cut a corner by not including this feature that may have already been on stock ecu.


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## eddiefury (Aug 5, 2007)

wow. what a thread!! you are thorough. great stuff neighbor! look forward to future updates.


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

^^^^^
Nice to see another local! Thank you!



Fellow Gaucho said:


> Good post/update. It is nice to see how higher octane gas proves to make a significant difference.
> 
> You say/showed that since numbers increased with higher gas that the ecu adjusted. However, this increase in numbers also results when done to the stock ecu (atleast from data I have seen online). Do you think the stock ecu also adjusts like HPA?
> 
> It would seem to me that APR chips cut a corner by not including this feature that may have already been on stock ecu.


Higher octane CAN make a difference if the ECU/Tune is programmed for it. HPA is said to do it with layered maps within the ECU while APR, GIAC, and the others do it with a separate file. Without the programming, the ECU cannot take advantage of the high octane fuel. So no, I don't think the factory software will provide a significant boost in performance with the 100 octane.

I don't know which is better but, I know APR isn't cutting corners. I'm sure they want to stick with their proven methods.

Mike


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

My custom polished clear anodized paddle shifters from S2T Performance have arrived! I'm looking forward to installing them hopefully today or tomorrow.



















They are pretty! 

Review to follow... :beer:

Mike


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## GunKata (Apr 4, 2006)

you lucky bastage! :thumbup: :beer: hopefully mine arrive Monday or Tuesday.


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## GunKata (Apr 4, 2006)

I am considering using some black nail polish on the +/- , what do you think?


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## Fellow Gaucho (Aug 3, 2011)

They look sweet! :thumbup:



GunKata said:


> I am considering using some black nail polish on the +/- , what do you think?


What about red?


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

GunKata said:


> you lucky bastage! :thumbup: :beer: hopefully mine arrive Monday or Tuesday.


This might be the only time I will say that living in California may have its benefits. They are located not far from where I live so I got my paddles yesterday. :thumbup:

Regarding the + and -, I'm thinking yes, but, I'm going to install them first and see how they look.

Mike


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

Fellow Gaucho said:


> They look sweet! :thumbup:
> 
> What about red?


Thanks! Red would work too. 
I just want to install them and see the contrast of color with the other interior colors and finishes.

Mike


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## GunKata (Apr 4, 2006)

Fellow Gaucho said:


> They look sweet! :thumbup:
> 
> 
> 
> What about red?


yeah, red or black for sure. 



Turn8 said:


> This might be the only time I will say that living in California may have its benefits. They are located not far from where I live so I got my paddles yesterday. :thumbup:
> 
> Regarding the + and -, I'm thinking yes, but, I'm going to install them first and see how they look.
> 
> Mike


indeed! good call on installing first perhaps.


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

S2T paddles installed! 

Man, these things look freaking awesome! The polished clear anodized finish is almost an exact match to the steering wheel, door handles, and a/c vent rings. The paddles are expensive to begin with, and the polish clear finish is $40 more but, worth it, in my opinion.

Alright, the install.
It took a little more work than I expected. The airbag and switches were removed easily enough but the S2T paddles themselves were really tight in the plastic housings. It took some massaging to get them to 'click' properly. I prefered the feel and engagement without the springs installed (which shouldn't be a surprise since that's how I liked them in my R32). The pin also to a little bit of work to push all the way through the paddle shifter assembly. I had to apply pressure to one end or the other while pushing the pin to get everything to function. The reinstallation was straightforward but, the airbag gave me some fight. Ultimately, I won. 

Initially, the S2T paddles took some force to engage and shift properly. More effort than the OEM's but, after a few miles and several shifts they began to loosen and function perfectly. I'm happy.

I'll post a full review with pictures soon...

Mike


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## GunKata (Apr 4, 2006)

:beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:

cant wait to see pics and get mine! So, u prefer no springs tho, yes? doe that effect the install at all and do the stock ones eventually "die" over time ?


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

After some more driving, downshifts and the left side paddle is working perfectly but, the right side paddle is still requiring more effort than I'd like to perform an upshift. I'm going to take another look at my installation later today.

You tell me but, I'll say it again, the S2T paddle shifters look awesome!





































I didn't have good lighting so the pictures don't do the finish justice. 
Trust me, the polished clear anodized finish is the bomb!

Mike


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Awesome thread and wow a lot of reading! Nice work man keep it up!! 

:thumbup:

Great resource for those with the 2.0T

Not sure if its because the 3.2 has more torque, but I haven't noticed the stock DSG tuning to be quite as bad through intersections and what not, did notice how it drops down right away if you are only giving it a little bit of throttle. Once I am tuned, have my intake and get the DSG tune I will have to update my thread with info in regards the the 3.2 and DSG mating perhaps.


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## GunKata (Apr 4, 2006)

looks good, Mike! Weird tho, I thought they were smaller, similar to the GTI ones.


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

Ponto said:


> Awesome thread and wow a lot of reading! Nice work man keep it up!!
> 
> :thumbup:
> 
> ...


Thanks! 

I enjoy sharing my experiences! :beer:

With the DSG, I think model year may have something to do with it. I had some similar but, not the same issues with my R32's DSG.

Mike


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

GunKata said:


> looks good, Mike! Weird tho, I thought they were smaller, similar to the GTI ones.


Thanks. They are the same size as the GTI. The pictures make them look a little larger.

I spent some time investigating my troubled shifter. Once again, I removed the airbag and removed the + side paddle assembly and pulled it apart. After fiddling with it I found that the + side paddle was not engaging the switch completely so I added a few pieces of electrical tape to the S2T paddle contact point and reassembled it. Fixed. That was all it took. A few very small pieces of stacked electrical tape. The - side didn't need any help it has been functioning perfectly. Now, both are functioning perfectly. Sweet!

Upon reinstallation my airbag gave me another fight. It truly doesn't like me. But, I gave him the business. :laugh:

On a side note, be sure to not over-tighten the paddle shifter switch when reinstalling the assembly or the paddles won't 'click'. They don't need to be 'torqued' so just snug them up.

The S2T paddles are literally my favorite non-power mod. These things make driving so much more fun. I've been driving around endlessly for the past three hours. I'm always using the paddles. I'm finding excuses to downshift and reasons to upshift. LOL! 
In my R32 they were my favorite mod but, with the 2.0T, you can't discount how much more power you can make from a simple ECU Tune. If it wasn't for the Tune, this would again be my favorite mod.

I'll post up a review sometime next week.
It's time to go do some more driving! 

Mike


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## kharma (Jan 2, 2004)

Turn8 said:


> The S2T paddles are literally my favorite non-power mod. These things make driving so much more fun. I've been driving around endlessly for the past three hours. I'm always using the paddles. I'm finding excuses to downshift and reasons to upshift. LOL!


Besides being metal, how are these any different than using the stock paddles?


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## GunKata (Apr 4, 2006)

kharma said:


> Besides being metal, how are these any different than using the stock paddles?


Its primarily the size and ability to grab them both higher and lower than you can with the stockers. On the track, I've wanted to grab the paddle coming out of a turn before fully unloading the wheel and you can't really do that with the stockers (yes, in theory you should not be shifting at this time, but I've done the same with MT on the same tracks, and one is right out of a turn into a chicane). Additionally, these appear to be about the same size as the paddles that come stock/standard on the Evo X MR.


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## Undercrwn (Nov 5, 2012)

Mike,

Great writeup, i have just read through your entire thread while waiting for my wife to finish her class. I have just picked up a 2009 2.0T as well last week, almost to the same exact specifications as yourself minus the S-Line package. 

Just a few questions on your reviews, sorry if some of them seem obvious or trivial as I have only owned the car for a few days.

1. When you are talking about the 3 modes of the DSG, I assuming you mean having it set in Drive, switching the shifter over to the right (which I doubt anybody actually uses), and Paddle shifting correct? Did you choose those ST paddles because of how far they extend past the wheel for easier accesibility? I know you were talking about the andonized color being a plus as the RS3 paddles also are that color for about the same price. It just seems like the ST ones look a little too racing like for a DD. Just my thought though.

2. Have you considered the Boost gauge from AWE since they also have the vent placement?

Anyways, not trying to hi-jack your thread or anything, just wanting to get your .02 on this since I thoroughly enjoyed reading your reviews, we think alike.

Only problem for myself is that I reside in Italy and the choices for reliable tuning shop around here are slim to none so I must do everything by myself. 

Also, if you do decide to get the Xenon/HID, you should take a look at the European Spec ones as they do not have the Amber reflectors and look cleaner than the US-Spec IMO.

Looking forward to your future reviews!


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

GunKata said:


> Its primarily the size and ability to grab them both higher and lower than you can with the stockers. On the track, I've wanted to grab the paddle coming out of a turn before fully unloading the wheel and you can't really do that with the stockers (yes, in theory you should not be shifting at this time, but I've done the same with MT on the same tracks, and one is right out of a turn into a chicane). Additionally, these appear to be about the same size as the paddles that come stock/standard on the Evo X MR.


Agreed!

Plus, in addition to function, the S2T paddles feel and look great too!

Mike


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

Undercrwn said:


> Mike,
> 
> Great writeup, i have just read through your entire thread while waiting for my wife to finish her class. I have just picked up a 2009 2.0T as well last week, almost to the same exact specifications as yourself minus the S-Line package.
> 
> ...


Thanks!

The 3 modes of the DSG are Auto, Sport, and Manual. The DSG is in Auto when the gearshift is placed in the D. The DSG is in Sport when the gearshift is put in S. And, the DSG is in Manual when the gearshift is moved to the right of D (or, when the paddles are used during driving). I don’t use the gearshift in Manual mode I much prefer the paddles.

There are lots of options with aftermarket paddles for our cars. I’ve owned the Tid units before but didn’t like having to use 3M tape to install them. The S2T paddles are the only ones that are ‘bolt-on’ just like the factory paddles. There are also other benefits to the S2T’s…size, constructed of 6061 aluminum, they are cnc machined, and anodized. I don’t use the paddles just for racing, having a larger paddle helps with daily driving for shifting while cruising, during slow turns, and in parking lots when changing gears is favorable. I only drive my A3 in manual mode so having the larger paddles really help in these situations.

Did I consider the AWE vent mount boost gauge? Absolutely. The reason I didn’t purchase it was because I was concerned with compromising the air flow through the vent where the AWE gauge is installed. I daily drive my A3 and I would be upset if on a hot day I couldn’t get enough cool air flowing and directed right where I need it.

Your questions are welcome. I enjoy helping where I can.

If I upgrade any of my lights, I’ll definitely be purchasing the Euro spec units.

Mike


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## GunKata (Apr 4, 2006)

Mike, how are things holding up/going with the S2T's? I saw the note about possibly needing some electrical tape or something for the backing of it (for feeling, not for installation)? Mine are getting installed this Saturday - very excited for them.


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

GunKata said:


> Mike, how are things holding up/going with the S2T's? I saw the note about possibly needing some electrical tape or something for the backing of it (for feeling, not for installation)? Mine are getting installed this Saturday - very excited for them.


Very good. They sent me a couple pieces of a special tape to add to my paddles (instead of the electrical tape...the tape they sent me was somewhat thick and clear) and the function of the paddles is better than stock. The feeling is very light and you don't have to press hard at all. It all feels very natural.
I hate having to take things apart only to reinstall them but, it was worth the extra effort.

I'd like to know what you think of them once you get them installed.

Mike


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## Fellow Gaucho (Aug 3, 2011)

Turn8 said:


> Very good. They sent me a couple pieces of a special tape to add to my paddles (instead of the electrical tape...the tape they sent me was somewhat thick and clear) and the function of the paddles is better than stock. The feeling is very light and you don't have to press hard at all. It all feels very natural.
> I hate having to take things apart only to reinstall them but, it was worth the extra effort.
> 
> I'd like to know what you think of them once you get them installed.
> ...



So they don't have that "click to shift" feel? I don't like that feeling very much :thumbdown:


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

Fellow Gaucho said:


> So they don't have that "click to shift" feel? I don't like that feeling very much :thumbdown:


No, they still have the 'click' feel but, it is much more fluid. Probably has something to do with more leverage on the switch. IMHO, it feels better...more natural.

Mike


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## Fellow Gaucho (Aug 3, 2011)

Turn8 said:


> No, they still have the 'click' feel but, it is much more fluid. Probably has something to do with more leverage on the switch. IMHO, it feels better...more natural.
> 
> Mike


Sounds great. They're on my list now seeing your review :thumbup:


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

I wonder is there some way to change out the signal switch to something that isn't a full on click. Like a soft button. Trying to think of a good comparison. But would probably take a little of doing anyways.


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

Ponto said:


> I wonder is there some way to change out the signal switch to something that isn't a full on click. Like a soft button. Trying to think of a good comparison. But would probably take a little of doing anyways.


If I understand you correctly, I'd assume after some trial and error, that you could insert some type foam inside the switch and get that type of soft-button feel.

Mike


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Turn8 said:


> If I understand you correctly, I'd assume after some trial and error, that you could insert some type foam inside the switch and get that type of soft-button feel.
> 
> Mike


Yes indeed you do! I know it would be dooable, just take some time and like you said trial and error.


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## GunKata (Apr 4, 2006)

Not really following on the "soft button feel", but I am very happy with mine and the springs still in.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

GunKata said:


> Not really following on the "soft button feel", but I am very happy with mine and the springs still in.


Referring to how it actually clicks when you go to select a gear. Basically the internal button is a hard switch, while as you could get a soft switch in there that wouldn't have a distinct click point, but instead just a lil pull and you are good.


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## GunKata (Apr 4, 2006)

Ponto said:


> Referring to how it actually clicks when you go to select a gear. Basically the internal button is a hard switch, while as you could get a soft switch in there that wouldn't have a distinct click point, but instead just a lil pull and you are good.


Ah, I see now. Personally, I'd prefer to feel the click point rather than any possible vagueness in the gear changes, but everyone likes different things :beer:


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

*S2T Paddle Shifter Review.*

As sure as the sun rises, there exists one performance modification that was inevitably going to be added to my 2009 Audi A3, the S2T Performance DSG paddle shifters. 

I drive my A3 exclusively in Manual mode. So, I use my OEM paddle shifters a lot. I think it is because I use them so often is the reason I feel that there should be some improvements made to the OEM construction and design. With the HPA DSG Stage 2 upgrade installed and the transmission performing perfectly, I need, absolutely need, the best paddle shifters to compliment the DSG’s performance.
I believe the S2T Performance paddle shifters are the perfect paddle shifter. 

The Audi OEM paddle shifters are functional and extremely enjoyable to use but, I believe that they should be a little larger and better designed, not just for spirited driving but, also for daily driving, especially at slow-speeds when I am turning and shifting at the same time. In addition, even with the bright finish, the OEM paddle shifters look and feel cheap. So, it would be nice to have a paddle shifter that not only looks and feels great but, also, a quality product which matches the rich interior appointments of the A3.

The S2T Performance paddle shifters are CNC machined from real aerospace quality 6061 T6 aluminum and they bolt-on, like a real OEM part. Most of the other paddle shifters available for the A3 and other Audi vehicles glue on with adhesive tapes. I’ll admit that there are some really nice and good-looking glue-on paddle shifters but, Screw that! I personally don’t want to ‘glue’ anything on my car. I want a real replacement part, a bolt-on part, a factory-like part, only better.

I bought a set of S2T Performance paddle shifters in the custom polished clear anodized finish as a special order. The custom hand-polished finish was an extra $40, so they were pricey but, I’ve owned their product before and I know their paddle shifters are worth the cost and the additional expense. Moreover, and perhaps more importantly, their design, CNC machining, craftsmanship, quality, attention-to-detail, execution, and anodized finishes are near flawless.

It seems that many enthusiasts feel that the installation of the S2T Performance paddle shifters is intimidating and/or, too difficult but, it doesn’t take any special skills, tools, or knowledge to successfully complete the installation. Trusting on my past paddle-shifter-install experience, I was expecting the most time consuming part of this install was going to be disconnecting the negative battery cable and the toughest part being the removal of the steering wheel airbag. But, my install didn’t initially go quite as I had planned... 

The steering wheel airbag and switches were removed easily enough but, when I dissected the OEM shifter switch and installed the S2T shifter, I had a difficult time inserting the pin all the way through the paddle shifter. I had to press both ends of the shifter assembly, at different times, before the pin could be successfully installed. Then, it took some massaging to get the new S2T paddle shifter to mate properly with the plastic OEM switch in order for the whole assembly to ‘click’ as expected (I should also note that I did not reinstall the OEM paddle shifters springs for my installation as instructed…I actually prefer the feel without them installed) but, eventually I got it working. Finally, with the new S2T shifters assembled and functioning, I reinstalled the remaining switches, followed by the final step, the reinstallation of the airbag (my airbag for some reason, decided to give me a rather frustrating fight...but, ultimately, I got it secured and won the fight!). 

My first test drive delivered disappointing results. With the S2T paddles in place, it took way too much force to pull on the paddle shifters to engage each shift. After some additional time behind the wheel, the paddles did begin to loosen and function better but, still not what I wanted, or expected.

I decided to double-check my install and make sure that I didn’t make some foolish error. Once again, the airbag, switches, and paddles shifters were removed enabling me to inspect my work. I found that both paddle shifters weren’t engaging the OEM switch properly. After some further investigation I found that the contact point on the S2T paddle shifters was not touching the OEM switch like it should. I added several small pieces of stacked electrical tape and stuck them to the contact point on the S2T shifter and…surprise, the S2T paddles work perfectly. Satisfied with my discovery and fix, I reinstalled everything. But, of course, the airbag gave me another fight! It truly doesn’t like me. But, I gave him the business! The bastard!

My follow-up test drive was a success. 
More on that later…

The hardest part of the installation was removing and reinstalling the OEM paddle shifter pins and battling with my stubborn airbag (with the exception of having to trouble-shoot the issues I experienced…I notified S2T Performance of my troubles and they sent me a special tape that would replace my electrical tape solution. Cool! Plus, they promised that all future kits would be supplied with it). Believe it or not, the complete installation process took me less than 30 minutes (of course I did have to do it a few times). In the end, easy stuff.

A couple pics of my hard work!

Before:








After:









And…another after shot:









The appearance and fitment of the S2T Audi DSG paddle shifters is virtually 100% OEM. The polish clear anodized finish is almost an exact match to the brilliant interior trim found on the steering wheel and elsewhere on the dash and console areas. The new Paddle Shifters really compliment the A3’s interior appointments. 
The S2T paddle shifters feel solid, comfortable, and refined. They engage the factory shifter switch perfectly. Their function is smooth and effortless. They still have the ‘click’ feel but, the engagement is better, more fluid and more natural. Each shift is engaged with confidence, comfort, and precision. The overall paddle shifter design is excellent. You can press anywhere on the paddle shifter and get an immediate response from the shifter switch. With the S2T Performance shifters installed I no longer have to search for the paddles while I’m driving. I don’t have to move my hands around, or shift with my pinky fingers. My fingers always find the S2T paddle shifters in the right place at the right time regardless of the driving situation. That’s what I’m talking about! The S2T paddle shifters should be factory equipment.

Comparing the S2T Performance paddle shifters with the OEM paddle shifters… Wait! You can’t! The stock paddles are pathetic! They are unusable once you try the S2T paddles. The S2T paddles are in another league, perhaps another world. They are incomparable with the OEM paddles. They are exceedingly better than the OEM paddle shifters in every facet of their creation. 

Furthermore, driving in Manual mode is simply not the same with the S2T paddle shifters installed. These things make driving so much more fun! I am always using the paddles. I’m finding excuses to downshift and reasons to upshift, just for the heck of it! Believe me, with these shifters you will always drive your car in Manual mode! You truly need to see, feel, and experience these paddle shifters in person to really understand how they change and improve the driving experience. They might not make my A3 any faster around a race track but, they really make my driving experience that much more enjoyable. I have a permanent smile on my face every time I drive my A3.

S2T Performance Products brings together an omnipotent combination of quality, craftsmanship, aesthetics, value, and performance. In my R32 the S2T paddles were my favorite modification. I don’t know if I can put them into that same category with my A3. You see, with the 2.0T, I can’t discount, or begin to tell you how cool it is to be able to gain so much power from a simple Stage 1 ECU Tune, especially for the price. A Stage 1 Tune is the best bang-for-your-buck out there! But, even I can’t use the awesome HPA Stage 1 power all-the-time but, I can use my new S2T paddle shifters all-the-time. So, the S2T paddle shifters are definitely my favorite, non-power modification. I think that is fair.

If you spend any time driving in Manual mode, I highly recommend a set of S2T Performance paddle shifters.

Mike


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

Next review...

BSH Turbo Air-Charge pipe and the Neuspeed Turbo Discharge pipe.
Then...W/M! 

Mike


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## kharma (Jan 2, 2004)

I'm still skeptical as hell that I'd appreciate the paddle shifters enough to drop the considerable price on them over something else, but after reading your review I could almost be convinced! The OEM paddles are just not always there when I reach for them.

Are you truly satisfied with the "special tape" as a permanent solution for their ill-fitting design? This is the one thing holding me back, if something is marketed as expertly designed I would expect the fit to be perfect without requiring such band-aids.


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## GunKata (Apr 4, 2006)

Undercrwn said:


> Also, if you do decide to get the Xenon/HID, you should take a look at the European Spec ones as they do not have the Amber reflectors and look cleaner than the US-Spec IMO.


^ where do you get those from?



kharma said:


> I'm still skeptical as hell that I'd appreciate the paddle shifters enough to drop the considerable price on them over something else, but after reading your review I could almost be convinced! The OEM paddles are just not always there when I reach for them.
> 
> Are you truly satisfied with the "special tape" as a permanent solution for their ill-fitting design? This is the one thing holding me back, if something is marketed as expertly designed I would expect the fit to be perfect without requiring such band-aids.


You will be satisfied. The fitment is almost perfect and I love mine every day a little bit more.


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

^^^^^
Agreed.



kharma said:


> I'm still skeptical as hell that I'd appreciate the paddle shifters enough to drop the considerable price on them over something else, but after reading your review I could almost be convinced! The OEM paddles are just not always there when I reach for them.
> 
> Are you truly satisfied with the "special tape" as a permanent solution for their ill-fitting design? This is the one thing holding me back, if something is marketed as expertly designed I would expect the fit to be perfect without requiring such band-aids.


Yes, like Gunkata, I'm more than satisfied with their service, solution, and overall fitment. I don't expect to ever have to remove the paddle shifters in the future for any reason...unless I want to to paint the + or - black...

Mike


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## GunKata (Apr 4, 2006)

Hey Mike, is your VDO gauge wired to dim with the interior gauge lights/center console lights or is it just “on or off”?


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

^^^^
On/Off, it was easier to wire that way. 

Did you find a better matching bulb?

Mike


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## GunKata (Apr 4, 2006)

Turn8 said:


> ^^^^
> On/Off, it was easier to wire that way.
> 
> Did you find a better matching bulb?
> ...


ah ok, that's what my shop thought too. Yep, replaced with an LED bulb - MUCH better now


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

*BSH & Neuspeed Inlet and Discharge Pipe Review.*

Car modifications don’t have to have a reason, or make sense. As car enthusiasts we enjoy tinkering-with and working-on our vehicles, period. Many times, our cars scream for attention and we change things, just for the sake of change. I believe it was this ‘spirit of change’ that forced me to replace the stock turbo discharge pipe with the Neuspeed Hi-Flow Turbo Discharge Conversion Pipe and the stock throttle pipe, with the BSH TSI Integrated Throttle Pipe on my 2.0T Audi A3.

Well, honestly, that is only half the story. You see, due to my future W/M installation, I had already planned to replace the throttle inlet pipe with a pipe that is pre-drilled for W/M injectors. The BSH pipe has two pre-drilled W/M injector locations which are perfect for my future project. The Neuspeed discharge pipe was purchased because if you replace one turbo pipe, why not both. Plus, I purchased both pipes on a Group-Buy, and it is hard for any car enthusiast to pass-up on some fantastic savings on performance parts regardless if they are NEEDED, or not.

Let’s start with the BSH TSI Integrated Throttle Pipe. As I said earlier, I purchased this pipe for the pre-drilled W/M injector locations. However, this pipe has some other cool benefits…Unlike the stock pipe, the BSH pipe features a reduction of bends that straighten turbulent air and a larger more consistent pipe diameter which should increase overall air-flow. In addition, unlike competitors pipes, the BSH pipe has a Diverter Valve relocation port which, if utilized, moves the DV from the turbo area to the intake pipe resulting in lower Intake Air Temperatures and allows for easier, more accessible servicing of the DV (I don’t know if I will relocate the DV, but, it is cool to have that option if I choose to do that in the future).

The BSH pipe was simple, straight-forward, and easy to install. I started by removing the two bolts that hold the stock inlet pipe in place. Then, I loosened and removed the clamps on the rubber hose connecting the pipe to the throttle body, and on the hose to the intercooler outlet. After some pushing, pulling, and swearing the stock pipe came out.

Here is a picture illustrating the difference between the stock pipe and the BSH pipe:










Once removed, I swapped over the IAT sensor, slipped-on the new silicone hose (with a good amount of dielectric grease to make things more manageable and to make the positioning the pipe easier) and started to maneuver the new pipe into place. I found it best to leave all the clamps loose until the BSH pipe is perfectly aligned before tightening anything. This way, I was able to move the pipe around to check for clearance and proper alignment to make it fit right the first time. Do it once, do it right. My install progressed smoothly, but I always have to make some kind of mistake somewhere along the way. After I tightened everything down and the pipe was positioned properly, I went to reinstall the IAT sensor connector, but I found that the connector could not reach the sensor. Upon further investigation I realized that I had installed the sensor backwards. I had to remove it, turn it around, and reinstall it. Luckily, I was able to do this without removing the BSH pipe.

Here is a picture of the BSH pipe installed (unfortunately, there really isn’t anything to see…):










With the BSH pipe in place, I moved on to the Neuspeed Hi-Flow Turbo Discharge pipe. 
The Neuspeed discharge pipe is much larger than the stock ‘pancake’ pipe that it replaces. The increase in pipe diameter and shape, in addition to the redesigned billet aluminum turbo discharge adapter is said to vastly improve air-flow for ‘Tuned’ 2.0T engines reducing turbo lag, improving turbo response, and increasing horsepower. Basically, Neuspeed is saying all the things that we enthusiasts want to hear to make us buy their product. Their claims are music to our ears. Well, since I bought it, I’m a sheep (though, I don’t know if I am ripe for slaughter…yet).

I started this project by removing the front passenger side wheel/tire assembly and the fender liner to allow for easy access to the stock turbo discharge pipe. With all the obstructions out of the way, disengaging the clamps and removing the bolts and pulling-out the stock pipe took only minutes. Super easy. But, I did take extra care so the turbo discharge pipe seal didn’t rip, or tear when the pipe was removed. This was important because Neuspeed requires you to reinstall the turbo discharge seal to their supplied adapter. Plus, you are also required to reinstall the OEM bracket bolts from the stock pipe, to theirs. My attempts were successful. Here is a picture comparing the two pipes:










The Neuspeed adapter with the attached silicone hose (and clamps) installs first. The only thing that I was careful about at this point was making sure that the adapter locked into place and mated perfectly with the turbo outlet. I had no problems. The Neuspeed pipe went in next. I aligned it with the mounting bolt locations and locked it into place with the intercooler inlet hose and then tightened everything down. Perfect! No problems, no issues. Here is a picture of it installed:










With both pipes in place, I started the engine to check for any issues with my work before I put everything back together. My A3 started up just fine but, it wasn’t idling properly and I was beginning to think I did something seriously wrong when I found that I hadn’t reconnected the throttle body connector. Whoops! I shut the car off, put the connector back on, started the car and it was perfect! What a relief!

It was now time to get the car on the ground and on the road.

What can I say? I can’t tell any difference in performance with the pipes installed. The butt-dyno says nothing. I didn’t notice any improvements in turbo response, throttle response, and I can’t feel any increase in power. Unfortunately, unlike my other reviews, I don’t have a dyno sheet to share, compare, or evaluate my findings (my next dyno will be with the W/M injection installed). Now, I’m not saying that the pipes ‘didn’t’ improve performance. They may have. I simply can’t sense, or feel it. My A3 still shreds the tires through first and second gear and takes off like a rocket on the highway. It immediately and consistently responds to my throttle inputs. And, it continues to rewards me with excellent MPG. With the new pipes installed, what’s to complain about? Not much.

Look, I don’t know if these pipes are a great ‘bang-for-the-buck’ or ultimately ‘worth’ the money. But, I felt that the BSH pipe was necessary for my W/M installation and I like the fact that if I want to do the DV relocation, I can. Moreover, the Neuspeed discharge pipe is a quality part that I feel better about having the on the car, than not. In the end, I’m thinking that just for the ‘sake of change’, they are both worth the money.

Mike


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## GunKata (Apr 4, 2006)

http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52160


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

^^^^
Thanks for the 'heads-up'. I'll be looking for exhaust at some time in the future but, I gotta see what my taxes are going to look like before I commit to anything...

Mike


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## GunKata (Apr 4, 2006)

duder... amazing system, amazing price :beer:


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

^^^^
Still no exhaust! 
I like the 'sleeper' sound and appearance. But, perhaps one of these days.

I still...have not installed the W/M system. I started but, haven't finished.
I know that when the W/M kit is finally installed that it will likely set-off some codes and require some resets and adjustments. In preparation for this, I purchased the HPA VAD system since I am running their ECU and DSG software instead of the popular VAG COM setup. This proved to be a mistake since I haven't been able to get an ancient Palm devise to communicate with my PC. I'm terrible with computers. So there is still hope. But, until I can get a trusty device functioning to monitor my engines vitals, I'm not going to install the kit.

Other than that, things are great with the car. The only thing I have done recently is 'debage' the rear liftgate and I really like the clean look. I'll post some pictures soon. The engine is running stronger than ever and the DSG is performing flawlessly. I still couldn't be happier. Well, perhaps with the W/M, I would be. 

Mike


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## GunKata (Apr 4, 2006)

glad to hear^

The Milltek resonated CBE with my catted and res dp is pretty quiet honestly, I love it.


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

Took a couple pics of the ‘Badgeless’ hatch…





Mike


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

I'm considering exhaust...

I don't want anything too LOUD and I wish to keep my A3's appearance relatively stock.

What do you guys recommend? Milltek?

Mike


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

Turn8 said:


> I'm considering exhaust...
> 
> I don't want anything too LOUD and I wish to keep my A3's appearance relatively stock.
> 
> ...


Just do a down pipe


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## Fellow Gaucho (Aug 3, 2011)

Yeah, I have read from others that just a downpipe gives all the power plus keeps a pretty quiet, stockish noise.


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

Thanks for the suggestions.

I know the performance is there but, will I gain any appreciable sound from the OEM exhaust with just a down-pipe? 

Mike


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## Fellow Gaucho (Aug 3, 2011)

Stock






Neuspeed dp only


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## Turn8 (Oct 31, 2008)

^^^^
Thanks for posting. Good info!

Mike


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