# roof rack vs hitch rack



## knedrgr (Jun 6, 2011)

I'm doing some homework for future extra cargo carrying capacity. For those that are currently using either of these features, I would like to hear your thoughts and decisions why you'd went with your current set up. Greatly appreciate your thoughts and inputs.

thanks.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

You mean in terms of a roof-top box vs. a hitch-mounted platform?


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## jkueter (Feb 12, 2008)

Hitch for bikes.

Everything else goes inside or on top.


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

knedrgr said:


> I'm doing some homework for future extra cargo carrying capacity. For those that are currently using either of these features, I would like to hear your thoughts and decisions why you'd went with your current set up. Greatly appreciate your thoughts and inputs.
> 
> thanks.


Hitch 
Pros:
1) Less of a fuel economy reduction
2) Easier to load bikes, especially a mountain bike
3) No height clearance issues, such as garages.

Cons:
1) Cost
2) Some cops may hassle you for blocking the license plate


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Been carrying bikes on the roof of cars since the early 1990s as an avid cyclist.

Roof racks:
Pros - very secure with a fork-mount (remove front wheel).

Cons - aero-drag = less mpgs, height issues with hoisting a bike up there

The new hitch racks look great and certainly make getting bikes on/off easier and it's great you don't have to take the f. wheel off. However....

Heavy. They weigh a lot and can be cumbersome to take on/off. They can block the rear plate. They make the rear sag. They do impact mpgs through the weight. Security IMHO isn't quite as good and I have seen 2 bikes fall off so you just have to be very good about how you secure the f. wheel with the clamping arm.


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

KarstGeo said:


> Been carrying bikes on the roof of cars since the early 1990s as an avid cyclist.
> 
> Roof racks:
> Pros - very secure with a fork-mount (remove front wheel).
> ...


I've found the Yakima Holdup clamping arm doesn't hold onto road tires too well. It's fine with knobby tires (mountain bike and cyclocross).

There are lightweight platform ones, such as 1upusa, which you can buy individual or a 2 bike holder to start, and then add more as needed (or the base holder can allow). But they are expensive. They hold the bikes by the wheels much better than a aforementioned holdup or Thule T2.

I've seen fork mounts fail to hold a bike, one of my buddies' Thule fork mount didn't latch properly and his mountain bike came loose. Fortunately it didn't go fully disengaged and damaged his roof.


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## knedrgr (Jun 6, 2011)

KarstGeo said:


> You mean in terms of a roof-top box vs. a hitch-mounted platform?


Sorry, should have been clearer in the original post. 

Roof top metal basket vs hitch-mounted platform/basket.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

BsickPassat said:


> I've found the Yakima Holdup clamping arm doesn't hold onto road tires too well. It's fine with knobby tires (mountain bike and cyclocross).
> 
> There are lightweight platform ones, such as 1upusa, which you can buy individual or a 2 bike holder to start, and then add more as needed (or the base holder can allow). But they are expensive. They hold the bikes by the wheels much better than a aforementioned holdup or Thule T2.
> 
> I've seen fork mounts fail to hold a bike, one of my buddies' Thule fork mount didn't latch properly and his mountain bike came loose. Fortunately it didn't go fully disengaged and damaged his roof.


With quick release fork and locking the fork mount skewer locked, there is simply no way for a bike to come off...period. Now...with a TA fork and adapter like I use now, sure, if you don't screw teh TA in and tighten it correctly...my point was that the ones that have a clamping arm have more room for error than a fork mount.


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## knedrgr (Jun 6, 2011)

Holding bikes could be in the future, as I have two kids to think about. But that will not be for about 5+ more years. 

Currently, I'm more thinking for luggages and boxes for vacationing with the family. Or the trip from the local home improvement store.


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

KarstGeo said:


> With quick release fork and locking the fork mount skewer locked, there is simply no way for a bike to come off...period. Now...with a TA fork and adapter like I use now, sure, if you don't screw teh TA in and tighten it correctly...my point was that the ones that have a clamping arm have more room for error than a fork mount.


I've seen it happen on Thule (I believe Echelon) fork mount (this was before the thru-axle technology came into play). Never experienced it on Yakima fork mounts. 

My point is, fork mounts aren't perfect either. Though the Yakima HighRoller is a great bike rack, too bad it's limited in its applications. The Yakima FrontLoader (which is more versatile for mounting on different shaped bars), the front hoops aren't large enough to securely hold the wheel.

I messed with enough bike racks. Right now I have a hanging bike rack, 

Right now, I use a Yakima Ridgeback 2, since my 1up got sideswiped in a parking lot.
https://www.rei.com/product/871148/yakima-ridgeback-2-hitch-rack-2-bike

Too bad the mast doesn't tilt down with the bikes attached. That's the only negative I have with the rack. 



knedrgr said:


> Holding bikes could be in the future, as I have two kids to think about. But that will not be for about 5+ more years.
> 
> Currently, I'm more thinking for luggages and boxes for vacationing with the family. Or the trip from the local home improvement store.


For luggage, a roof box is better, you may have clearance issues with your home garage, depending on the door height and how low the opener hangs down from the ceiling.

I've seen on some road trips people using both a roof box and a hitch mounted cargo carrier. The hitch mounted cargo carrier, with it loaded up, it may interfere with the hatch opening, and don't typically tilt down for access, like many hitch mounted bike carriers.

Some do, like the Thule one, but it's not cheap

https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Carg...utm_term=4577473065930334&utm_content=General

Trips to Home Depot, maybe getting a small trailer to tow would come in handy. See many non-contractors tow a small trailer at Home Depot


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## giantsnation (Dec 15, 2014)

I've used both styles of Thule boxes - roof and hitch mounted. They both offer some advantages and cons. The hitch one is cool that it has lights and a spot for your license plate so no issues with police. Its great for luggage and duffle bags but obviously wider ideas won't fit (I believe the size was 13 cu. ft vs the roof which is 18 cu ft.). The hitch ones also allows you to bungle items on top of it. The biggest problem was rear lift gate access. It did "fold" or tilt down to allow the tailgate to open but you then still has to maneuver around it and putting it down or back up was not easy fully loaded (required 2 people). BUT the hitch one makes a great cooler! 

Ultimately, there are not too many cons with the roof one. Obviously the height of getting things in and out can make for a challenging experience but its not too bad. The only other con was the limited use of your sunroof (you basically won't be able to open or tilt it). I noticed very little wind noise nor MPG deduction. 

If I had to choose, I'd say go with the roof one just because its a better size (items large and small fit without a problem).


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## knedrgr (Jun 6, 2011)

So, I'd decided to go with the roof box option. I'm extremely happy with the current set up. 

Found a barely used set of Rhino Rack Vortex bars for more then 50% off retail. And went with a Thule Force XT XL (18 cu-ft) size cargo box. I wanted to keep cargo secure, when we stop at rest stops, and didn't need to keep an eye on the luggage. 




















I'd to move the front bar slightly up to be able for it to clear the sunroof.


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## ToySlacker (Aug 10, 2007)

Everyone, regarding the hitch mounted items (bike, platform, anything), how do you deal with the back up sensors ALWAYS going off when in reverse? I just bought a hitch bike mount in the fall since the kids are finally riding bikes, and it is annoying AF, so I found myself always taking it on an off. 

Thoughts, help, is there a bypass setting? ...Or is it just something I (we) all have to deal with on any car with sensors?


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## Hetletco (May 15, 2018)

I’m planning on getting a hitch mounted rack. Figured it would be better for things like heavy coolers, taking a lawn mower to be serviced, hauling yard waste bags, and would be easier to load and unload without having to climb up the side of the vehicle and worry about scratching.


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## knedrgr (Jun 6, 2011)

ToySlacker said:


> Everyone, regarding the hitch mounted items (bike, platform, anything), how do you deal with the back up sensors ALWAYS going off when in reverse? I just bought a hitch bike mount in the fall since the kids are finally riding bikes, and it is annoying AF, so I found myself always taking it on an off.
> 
> Thoughts, help, is there a bypass setting? ...Or is it just something I (we) all have to deal with on any car with sensors?


I'd read that someone had put in a plug into their pin connector, thus making the car think there's a trailer on the receiver.


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## Vipe29 (Feb 2, 2004)

knedrgr said:


> I'd to move the front bar slightly up to be able for it to clear the sunroof.


So do the Rhino Rack bars impede the sunroof? Did you move it? I'm a little confused reading your post. I've searched and can't find out much about these but they look great on yours. How loud are they?


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## kootenaydub (May 15, 2009)

Pretty sure it's clear in the photo that the sunroof cleared the roof racks. Any rack designed for the Atlas should allow the sunroof to open.


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## kootenaydub (May 15, 2009)

ToySlacker said:


> Everyone, regarding the hitch mounted items (bike, platform, anything), how do you deal with the back up sensors ALWAYS going off when in reverse? I just bought a hitch bike mount in the fall since the kids are finally riding bikes, and it is annoying AF, so I found myself always taking it on an off.
> 
> Thoughts, help, is there a bypass setting? ...Or is it just something I (we) all have to deal with on any car with sensors?


Bypass, kinda, you can press the button on the console and it will mute the beeping as soon as it starts. You can also go into your settings and put the volume of the sensor beep very low.

last option, yes, you could put something in the connector to make it think there's a trailer hooked up.


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

kootenaydub said:


> Pretty sure it's clear in the photo that the sunroof cleared the roof racks. Any rack designed for the Atlas should allow the sunroof to open.


not necessarily. the low profile ones like whispbar flush bar will interfere with the sunroof

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


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## knedrgr (Jun 6, 2011)

Vipe29 said:


> So do the Rhino Rack bars impede the sunroof? Did you move it? I'm a little confused reading your post. I've searched and can't find out much about these but they look great on yours. How loud are they?


These will clear the sunroof, as shown in the picture, if you place it a couple of inches forward of the tilt line. They have a few different models. The ones I'd went with will clear the sunroof. The noise isn't loud, but that's all relative to how sensitive your hearing is. I have normal sensitivity, so take it FWIW. 

Since my original pictures, I've moved these bars backward and are now more toward the rear. This way, the front bar is now behind front glass panel, and sits more over the second/fixed glass panel. With the original location, when the sunroof was fully open, I got a little too much turbulence from the front bar sitting over the opening.

http://www.rhinorack.com/en-us/fit-...swagen-atlas-5dr-suv-with-roof-rails-18-to-19


New location with box. Roof will tilt for ventilation with box. Without box, it'll fully open with no issues.


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## Vipe29 (Feb 2, 2004)

knedrgr said:


> These will clear the sunroof, as shown in the picture, if you place it a couple of inches forward of the tilt line. They have a few different models. The ones I'd went with will clear the sunroof. The noise isn't loud, but that's all relative to how sensitive your hearing is. I have normal sensitivity, so take it FWIW.
> 
> Since my original pictures, I've moved these bars backward and are now more toward the rear. This way, the front bar is now behind front glass panel, and sits more over the second/fixed glass panel. With the original location, when the sunroof was fully open, I got a little too much turbulence from the front bar sitting over the opening.
> 
> ...


Thanks for clarifying. 

I had the same turbulence problem with the OEM bars when I had my GLI which is why I was wondering about the noise.


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## kootenaydub (May 15, 2009)

I've move oem bars back and forth, all sorts of positions, but get whistling at most air densities at hwy speeds. Most fairing solutions won't allow the sunroof to work, but I might try a center fairing like yakima used to make and see if that helps, as I run kayak racks most of the summer. I also read that wrapping paracord around 3-4' apart can help disturb the air enough to stop whistling.


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

Vipe29 said:


> Thanks for clarifying.
> 
> I had the same turbulence problem with the OEM bars when I had my GLI which is why I was wondering about the noise.


all cross bars create turbulence under the bars.

with the VW cross bar noise, the smooth rubber strip doesn't help. the Thule grooved rubber strip helps a lot, which the Rhino rack also uses a similar rub strip.

I use the thule rubber strip on my Vw rack.

the change of aerodynamics means I can open the sunroof fully without buffeting noise

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