# my passat build, slowly starting



## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

hey guy's
im jake from the uk, 
my car is a uk passat b5.5 estate
here's the car 
















my kit is a mix n match kit as im in the uk, im not as open to the glorious products in the uk,
i intend to do fbss-controlled for now off trigger switches
so far i have a dc5000 compressor, two 3 gal tanks joined as one, this came with the comp, but i also have a 5 gal to use, 
which would you say were better?
the valves that came are cne ones, with three wires inside, but they have been cut that short i need to rebuild them








i opened on, and i have two red + wires to one pin and the other in black -, why are there two wires to the one pin? can i not get away with one wire? or do they require a second source??
my rear bags are on the way, i already have brackets fabbed for theose, and the fronts im hoping to get soon.

jake


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## Grig85 (Feb 11, 2006)

Nice one Jake, always loved those cars


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## Sketchy-B (Jun 12, 2005)

*Re: (Grig85)*

I would use the single 5gal tank. With one compressor and two tanks you will have to have the tanks connected by a line to even out pressures. It will be much easier to wire/hose up one single tank. 
If you had two compressors I'd say run the 3s. You could then break the car in half running left side on one tank/compressor and so on. 
Looks good can't wait to see how it comes along. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

yeah i did think it wa wierd having two small tanks, umm will have to see as the 5 gal, is actually a workshop style compressor tank, which would require drilling and tapping i think...
just looking for a pressure switch and then a water trap, and i think im good to go
jake


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

well i have cleaned up the valves and ptfe taped then all back up, added my new fixings,
tommorrow i will wire them up and try to start mounting everything roughly where it should be, 
then its a case of taking live feeds etc, 
jake


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

these are the valves and my manifold, 








i have some more bits on order, pressure switch, water trap, wires and fuses.
can i use the remote wire from my amp to trigger the compressor relay????


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

*Re: my passat build, slowly starting (cuprajake)*

had a quick look and play at dinner,
it looks like the 5 gal tank is going to be a perfect fit, 
heres the boot, im going to be doing something with the subs too,








then the boot layout im thinking off








so im fairly happy with that, im going to make brackets to secure the tank, then i have started making a loom for the valves, whilst still trying to keep it tidy lol



_Modified by cuprajake at 1:14 PM 2-26-2009_


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

im not 100% where the compressor is going yet, but i think it should fit, height wise at least


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

valves and compressor in,










_Modified by cuprajake at 1:14 PM 2-26-2009_


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

well done some more today,
painted the tank this morning, then at dinner i wired all the powers and earths up to everything,
my fuse holder also came in,
so my setup is:
4 gauge from battery to a 60amp fuse, this then goes to the boot to another fuse block, this splits the power one (20 amp for the audio) and then the other (60 amp ) for the air ride stuff.
the remote wire from the headunit is ised to turn on two relays, one powers the amps back up, and the other now gives power to the air ride setup( didtribution block)
the valves are into the block and have their own fuse. 
the compressor is on a switch at the moment for testing as i am waiting for the pressure switch, to turn it on/off
the earths go to a central block earthed to the boot,
thats about as far as i can go now, i have done a small test and have one leak i can see off, but until my bags come next week all i can do is plub gauges in now
pic








jake


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## diive4sho (Feb 7, 2004)

*Re: (cuprajake)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cuprajake* »_


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

i know, budget system, and crappy pics,
looks alot better now the tank is blacked.
the wires are all going into a harness too.
gotta start somewhere, 
eventually i want an electronic management system, but that wll have to wait till after i get wed

jake


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

more developments,
the guy still hasn't sent the rears from his shop, over a week since i ordered! 
the pressure swithc and trap should be monday,
i have a small leak somewhere, i think its the manifold, 
the first phase was just to see if it all worked lol, which it does, i can now go about tidying it up,
also had a though lastnight, im going to change the relay trip wire from the headunit to accesory wire, as if i leave my headunit at home the air wont work lol
jake


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## wishihada18t (Apr 24, 2004)

*FV-QR*

if i read it right you have a 4 gauge power wire running to the back with a 60 amp fuse. then it splits with a 20 amp fuse to the audion and a 60 amp to the air ride. either the main fuse needs to be bigger, or the air ride fuse needs to be smaller.right now you have a 60amp fuse protecting 80amps of fuses. it doesnt work that way.
on my set up i have 4 gauge as well with a 150 amp fuse. i have i have one fuse of 80 amps to cover 2 compressors. a 10 amp to cover the management, and a 40 to cover to all the audio. total of 130 amp.


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

Yeah,
i get ya,
it was a case of getting stuff working, but i hear ya, will upgrage the front fuse.
cheers for the tip bud
jake


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

pressure switch finally came in, so thats fitted, but i need to adjust it so it cuts off at the right pressure, im still waiting on the rear bags, spoke to the guy on monday and he said id have them for weekend, nearly two weeks now, surprised he's still in business
jake


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## [email protected] (Nov 10, 2007)

*Re: (cuprajake)*

i dunno, 5 gals just didnt seem like enough capacity when i started, so i upped to dual 3's. **** i'd do dual 5's if i could do it again (i guess i can i'm jsut too lazy)
if yours is fwd, the rears are retarded simple. the fronts need a little bit of thought to get low. you'll need a decent amount of travel for it to be worthwhile too.


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## Grig85 (Feb 11, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_i dunno, 5 gals just didnt seem like enough capacity when i started, so i upped to dual 3's. **** i'd do dual 5's if i could do it again (i guess i can i'm jsut too lazy)
if yours is fwd, the rears are retarded simple. the fronts need a little bit of thought to get low. you'll need a decent amount of travel for it to be worthwhile too.

I agree 5 gals isnt trully enough, but if you can fit it flush in the spare tire tub I wouldnt think of adding another tank or bigger tank. I wish I could fit my 5 gal flush like this


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## Sketchy-B (Jun 12, 2005)

*Re: (Grig85)*

Pancakes work well too


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

the original set up had two small 3 gals welded together, i could add this into the system but dont know ??
im not after super fast movement etc, hell i dont even do many miles haha
the backs should be here soon, so that will be done first,
the wheels are 19" et is about 35 i do have room, but doubt i can tuck the tyre, my friends car hits the ground before the chassi !!!!
any help with the fronts would be good though, im currently on coilovers too
jake


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## Sketchy-B (Jun 12, 2005)

*Re: (cuprajake)*

I have that same picture with 19s I will send you...


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## [email protected] (Nov 10, 2007)

*Re: (cuprajake)*

welded together? jeez, dont know if i'd trust that.
if there's one thing that people here get beat into their head is: do it once, do it right. it doesnt cost all that much to run new components, even a really simple, manual setup with quality parts would be better than running random used stuff (including shady tanks).


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

should elaborate they were welded together with a bracket lol not two bottles with a seam down it,
is there something wrong with the tank i have use? or my setup? i am fairly new to it, so if you could elaborate it would help. its a basic kit but it will work good, all lies will be equal etc
jake


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

in the uk it costs alot, 
a basic fb system is £1400 ish so thats $2100 thats a 5gal tank, single compressor one gauge, universal rears etc, its very difficult with importing too as i have been quoted silly shipping prices,

i actually fly to vancouver in may so might pic up some update bits when im there lol like electronic manegment, just hope i have the money as its our honey moon lol


_Modified by cuprajake at 1:47 AM 2-27-2009_


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

one thing i would like know is do you remove the arch liners front and rear??
i doubt i will be able to tuck the tyre too much, but getting low if first priority, then i can take the bumper poss wing off to look for clearence issuses or rubbing
jake


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## [email protected] (Nov 10, 2007)

*Re: (cuprajake)*

my liners are still in. theyre not actually full liners on a b5.5 so it really doesnt matter if you remove them or not. you're going to run into clearance issues with the upper control arms and the inside of the wheel well tho.
i'd like to see how mine sits on 17's, but all i've done were 18'
s and 19's on mine and tire sizes seemed to be the clearance problem.












_Modified by [email protected] at 7:45 AM 2-27-2009_


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

does look sweet that, yours had the mint leather retrim didn't it,
the rear bags have come in, so i have fabbed a tempory bracket to fit them, i will mock them hopefully this aft, then see what issues i run into lol
cheers for the tip,
btw yours looks low 
but this one








this is a uk members and his subframe hits the ground before the control arms or needs to notch


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## Sketchy-B (Jun 12, 2005)

*Re: (cuprajake)*

Are the tops of his towers dented hell?? 
I don't see him being able to lay subframe without doing something with the upper control arms








Is he running any kind of tranny brace or sway bar setup that might be sitting on the ground rather than the subframe itself?


_Modified by Sketchy-B at 5:34 AM 2-27-2009_


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## [email protected] (Nov 10, 2007)

*Re: (Sketchy-B)*

i would really be interested to see an underneath pic. on 15" steelies i can wedge my foot on sandals between the side of the front lip and the ground. and i have a DG panzer skidplate (which is lower than the subframe) and it's not hitting the ground. ****, i can still drive with it that low without interference (with the fenders on the control arms and it sounds awful)
the blue wagon looks higher in the front than mine on 15's (based on the light shining under the side of the front lip). 
i'd really be interested to see what he's running up front and maybe an actual fender-to-ground measurement


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

not sure, he's read my thread so perhaps he will reply to answer your questions,
well heres my first mock up, 
the bags are fully compressed, one pic is with dirt guard, one without, no more movement,
i havent touched the damper, but i have took the little bumps used to locat springs down half each,
what can i do to go lower, without the dirt guard in the wheel spins too
pics


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## Sketchy-B (Jun 12, 2005)

*Re: (cuprajake)*

I do hope that he posts up. 
As for going lower, do you have any pics of the rear bag mount? There usually is some fat that can be trimmed here.


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## [email protected] (Nov 10, 2007)

*Re: (Sketchy-B)*

make sure the bump stop is removed. trim as much as possible from your bag mounts. my tops are mouted flush with the body. run a narrower tire, maybe narrower wheel or lower offset. on the PS the rear wheel wells stick out near the gas filler and can interfere


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

sorted it, i hadn't yet played with the bump stop,
this is the bump stop out completely








will eventually roll the arches a little, or when new tyres are needed just have a little stretch as the tyr was rubbing on the arch near to the stone guard


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## Sketchy-B (Jun 12, 2005)

Much better looking


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

Here are a few pics,








here is the rear setup, i have chopped the locating lugs in half, this way if i ever want to refit springs i can, 
i can bolt the bag from underneath no probs, the top i have made a captive nut, which is going to be welded into the top lug and used to locat the bag and also to stop it twisting,
here is the bag itself and my attachments








jake


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

i think with a bit of arch rolling and different tyres i would go alittle bit lower,
quick question- what tyres would go onto my rims, they currently have 235/35/19 on iirc they are 8"wide, i want a bit of stretch but nothing crazy
secondly should i put a bit of the bump stop back in or leave it out completely?
jake


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## [email protected] (Nov 10, 2007)

*Re: (cuprajake)*

215-35
roll the fronts


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

cheers, 
what did you do to the controll arms on yours then, do they litterly hit the upper inner arch?


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

if anyone knows where i can get a good deal on over strut bags for the front withough mega shippng it would be great, i had struck a deal with bdiddy but he isn't pm ing me back, 
jake


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## [email protected] (Nov 10, 2007)

*Re: (cuprajake)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cuprajake* »_cheers, 
what did you do to the controll arms on yours then, do they litterly hit the upper inner arch?



mine hit. but i daily mine and have over 40k on the setup.


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## Sketchy-B (Jun 12, 2005)

*Re: (cuprajake)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cuprajake* »_cheers, 
what did you do to the controll arms on yours then, do they litterly hit the upper inner arch?

Cutting is your friend








You've seen


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

mines a daily too and with the roads in the uk, i couldn't drive lower than i am now, btw the original pic is when the first coilovers went on so im alot lower now anyways


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

just a quick update, haven't really had any good time on the car,
i have both sides mocked up now with all the holes aligned so the bags sit central and vertical, i need to mate one more captive nut then they can be welded into place,


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

quick vid of the rear, re fabbed the brackets, the tyre is now stopping it going so low,,just need to find my leak!!! will take al the bits off, whats best other than ptfe to seal the holes
vid
sorry its so dark!

jake


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

paid for my front bags today, cheers to b.diddy
the rears are all but done now, there was a tiny leak but found that, the check valve was leaking!!!
new one and all pressure is being held,

will fill it tonight and measure and then leave over night to see if i loose any pressure
jake


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

pressure held up fine lastnight, so got cracking after dinner with the gauge and switch box,
here is the rear bag mounted up,








and a pic of both sides, didn't realise i still had the ramps under , doh!
















then it was out with the interior, i do love how easy vw come to bits








then i decided to put the gauges and switches on the centre arm rest,
















tommorrow i pick up a leather interior, so i will black all the grey sections so i have a full black interior
jake


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## dymer (May 11, 2004)

*Re: (cuprajake)*

Single gauge for each corner?


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

yeah, they were free lol so thought why not haha


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

wanted to go for the audi look, all black interior, so it was out with the grey stuff, 








and into the booth








and then painted black, 









did the plastics in solvent, and the cloths in water based, with a light dusting of matt clear to seal them in,
jake


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

well im done for the night,
went to pick the interior up at dinner, very nice....didn't realise till i got home that i left half the back seat lol so have to go back and pick that up tommorrow lunch.
the interior itself is from a b5 saloon, dont like to make things easy, first apparent things are that the drivers door card is different, ie no petrol popper, then the back door tops are slightly longer on the estate version, and also the air bag plugs being different, coincidently the colours are the same, i know about all these problems just not how to tackle them till i got my grubby hands on the leathers.

i decided to swap out the leather centre section on all but the passanger front door, then re solder them in place, its a simple if not time consuming thing,
here is the card with the centre ground out








when i got back after lunch, i started to fit the mornings painted interior bits back in, roof lining grab handles etc, then set about the doors, the front seats fit easily, just had to change the airbag plugs, 
the rear seats do need a slight mod, there is a lower mounting hole already there for the outer most bit near the doors, the centre pivot needs moving, but untill i get the other piece i cant really move it,
the lower bench attaches different as it doesnt lift up, i have simply secured these down with ties until tommorrow but i dont for see a problem with it
all in all very happy, if not a little tierd now, but its well worth it, but i need an estate leather arm rest lol
few crappy pics
































jake


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## crazymoforz (Jan 19, 2006)

*Re: (cuprajake)*

looks good jake. keep up the good work.


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

now have the air on the car controlled by remote,
i wanted to keep the control small so just went for pancake mode(all 4 down at once) then all up.
heres the remote, looks just like a key fob [







]









jake


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

well the front bags turned up, pretty good condition too thanks b.diddy


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## Sketchy-B (Jun 12, 2005)

What kind of dye/paint did you use for the headliner and stuff?


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## michgo2003 (Jan 11, 2007)

^^^^^
My thoughts exactly.


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

waterbased paint, watered down a little, this soaks in, kinda like dye, i was going to use fabric dye, but it was pointed out that most of them need to be rised out, with the water base it goes on like water so penetrates to the base of the lining, rather than sitting ontop like a solvent would, the plastics were scothed, plastic adhesioned then aerosoled satin black


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

how do you guy's determine the height of the full bags,
if i go right down when i have the bag fully deflated there is a chance that the bag may rub if the wheels aint completely stright not too much of a problem down, but i need the bag fully inflated for driving ie not doubled over


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

well, got cracking this aft on the front set-up
in fact alot easier to do than the rears, no brackets just plug and play haha just need to fine tune the height
first you start with a standard coilover








then you add spring compressors









strut on its own,








then you notch the ring for the leader hose








and fit the bag and its brackets, along with the top mount bush and bearing, these can be chopped a little for that extra few half inches








then you fit it in place and repeat,


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

heres how i ran the hose nice and neat in the brake line clamps, 








then inder the rear floor pan into a gromet for the boot.








heres the drop, i can go more i think, as they coils are not wound down fully, and im not hitting arches etc either, so thats one less thing to worry about,
























and back up








the remote works ok down but i have different flow rates to the front,
jake


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

here's a clean day shot,
not happy with the front height, im bottoming out on the inner wing with control arms, i have moved the bag up and down the strut but got nothing, what can i do to drop an inch or so, just want to tuck the rim a little,
jake ps im still clearing the arch


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## Sketchy-B (Jun 12, 2005)

Make sure you cut the bumpstop off the top of the control arm (little rubber nub)
If this does not satisfy then you will have to cut your upper strut towers..
IM for details on that


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

cheers will have a look, 
cant understand why it wont go lower though!!


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## passat_98 (Mar 31, 2007)

if everything is done right and nothing is in the way, your upper control arms are hitting the engine bay. There is a rubber bump on them you can shave to get lower or cut a hole like this to get lower


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## passat_98 (Mar 31, 2007)

oh and your different flow rates are because you have longer distances between the front and rears. Get some flow controls and it'll fix that. They are adjustable so you can make them equal


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

hi, i've seen the pic before, very extreme lol
can i cut the bottom of the strut where it achcors near the hub, there is atleast 3-4" of bar to chop
yeah i know re the flow rate lol figured it out as soon as it went up first time, it doesnt help that the fronts bottom out with about 30 psi left im them so they take longer to fill that the backs too, im thinking of getting a 3 button remote so i can go front up/back up all down, 
the backs fill the same as do the fronts, i made sure the lines were the same lenght and run identiacl too.
cheers for your help, its much appreciated.
jake


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## passat_98 (Mar 31, 2007)

*Re: (cuprajake)*

yeah you can but it'll reduce you highest point of lift. If that's fine look a what Capt. Obvious did


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## Sketchy-B (Jun 12, 2005)

*Re: (cuprajake)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cuprajake* »_
can i cut the bottom of the strut where it achcors near the hub, there is atleast 3-4" of bar to chop


This will make no difference until the issue with the control arms is taken care of. Unless you find some way to cut the knuckle up shortening the strut will not make a difference. 
Think of it this way. With no strut in there what so ever the suspension acts just the same. This is because there are upper and lower control arms to hold the wheel hub in place... With no suspension in there you can lower it until the upper control arms hit the top of the strut tower, and that still remains your main issue. 
The only time that cutting the strut itself will make a difference is if you are totally limitless in how far up the upper control arms go. 
haha confused yet? I can diagram it if it is a little confusing.. or just pull the wheel off and the strut out and play around http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Sketchy-B (Jun 12, 2005)

*Re: (passat_98)*


_Quote, originally posted by *passat_98* »_yeah you can but it'll reduce you highest point of lift. If that's fine look a what Capt. Obvious did 


But this will only lower you if you are not already bottomed out on the upper control arms... in other words if you bag is limiting the low.


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

ummmm i was thinking shortening the strut would drop the controll arms down then when you bottom out you'll be lower


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

diagram would help, getting confused haha


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

heres a pic of a standard setup








i get what your saying as the strut doesnt make much differene.
jake


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

if i distanced the top of the where the control arms fit in then it would mean the control arms would have to do up further in essence move the whole setup down then get the bag to level the hight


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## Doey20v (Jul 12, 2007)

Hey mate nice diy build im from the uk as well i was wondering where did u get ur remote setup from and was it easy 2 fit ????


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

maplins mate,
its not too difficult just wiring and relays tbh


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## Doey20v (Jul 12, 2007)

Cool guessing its just a 2 button remote then ill have a look on there site c wat i can find


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## Grig85 (Feb 11, 2006)

*Re: (Doey20v)*

how much PSI your gauges are showing when you just first hit your upper arms on fenders? on my A6 I have around 40psi left to dump from front bags after my upper arms buttom out with bagyards (that are almost 1" shortened). I will be cutting holes for arms sometime soon. You probably better of doing that than choping down your forks. cut forks will lower you a bit but will take away from your day to day riding comfort, cuz you will have to pump up your front much more just to get your clearance.


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## passat_98 (Mar 31, 2007)

haha I was think mkIV/V when I said that







it's been a while since I've touched my B5


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

im the same 30-40 psi when bottoming out, 
i have seen your build its a beautiful car,
how did you shorten yours??
i hear what your saying about the ride and in the uk the roads are pants haha
but i could always wind the bag up a little
jake


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## Sketchy-B (Jun 12, 2005)

*Re: (cuprajake)*

Excuse my amazing MSpaint skills but here's a diagram of whats happening. The top two pictures are your case. The arm (brown) is resting on the top of the strut (red). The distance between the upper and lower control arms is set by the knuckle (blue). By shortening your strut in this case only stretches the strut back to the lower control arm cause you to run higher PSI because the bag cannot fully compress with the shortened length. 
The bottom situation would be cause by the bag bottoming out before the control arms. This would be the case if your bags were at 0psi and you were not touching the top control arm. In this case cutting the mount would shorten the bag allowing more compression and lowering the car to the point where you end up back at the top scenario. 








Hope this all helps. Cut the tower or bust.


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## Sketchy-B (Jun 12, 2005)

*Re: (Sketchy-B)*

Cut this bump stop out and you will see a slight difference as well...


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

cheers sketchy
so cutting down will give me a little more of a drop then thats good, im not bothered about the control arms bottoming, just getting low haha


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## Sketchy-B (Jun 12, 2005)

*Re: (cuprajake)*

That where the control arms are resting on the body. I wouldnt hope for too much though..
Keep in mind though... Now if you hit hard there is no rubber bump stop to soften the blow...


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## passat_98 (Mar 31, 2007)

*Re: (Sketchy-B)*

true but if you hit hard enough you'll begin to dent the engine bay and not need to cut it







I have dents from when I was on coils


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## Sketchy-B (Jun 12, 2005)

*Re: (passat_98)*


_Quote, originally posted by *passat_98* »_true but if you hit hard enough you'll begin to dent the engine bay and not need to cut it







I have dents from when I was on coils 

As do I .... err well I did... now there is a hole


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

well i chopped the controll arm bump stop and then shortened the strut, now the only thing left is to upgrade fronts or to cut holes lol
pics of the process
























and the drop lol
before/then after
















jake


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

the fronts will take major mods to go lower now







unless i stump up some serious cash, lets face it for £500 im pretty happy with the setup i have, front struts alone cost that, 
here are a few day pics:
































btw its all adjustable, so i can up down when ever, i roll at a decent height as we have alot of speedbumps near work lol


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## AustinVaughan (Aug 23, 2008)

*Re: (cuprajake)*

looks good http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## moacur (Sep 22, 2006)

*Re: (AustinVaughan)*

Agreed http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Shawn W. (May 6, 2007)

*FV-QR*

I hope you figure it out. 
man i love 5.5s more and more.


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## cuprajake (Jan 8, 2008)

cheers guy's,
tbh i fairly happy where it is now, the next step to go lower would incur large expense and this has always been a nudget build, 
will be winding the bags up a little today, as im grounding out before there empty, this way i can have a few less psi in while i drive and have a smoother ride, im currently driving at 80psi in the fronts, 
will also be putting it on our hunter wheel alignment system to get the toe set up as i have a feeling its way out lol
cheers for all the help i have had of guys on here much appreciated
jake


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