# 1.8T Code P0343, replaced CPS, still nothing!



## jgrabski (May 31, 2009)

This will probably sound dumb to a lot of you but here goes. As the title says I pulled code P0343 Camshaft Position Sensor A- Bank 1 Circuit High Input. So I replaced the Camshaft position Sensor, and the car still wont fire, and I still get the code. Any ideas??
This is probably going to make me sound even dumber... When I turn the car over shouldnt the timing belt spin? Mine doesnt!
TIA


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## jgrabski (May 31, 2009)

Anyone ever heard of this? 
Could someone atleast tell me if the timing belt should be spinning when the car turns over?


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## Rocco Sifredi (Jan 22, 2007)

*Re: (jgrabski)*

LOL








ahh yes and looks like you need a cylinder head, your belt snapped,








when did you last do a T belt service?


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## jgrabski (May 31, 2009)

HAHA, I knew I wasnt retarded! Its my girlfriends car so last tbelt servicing I'm guessing...... NEVER! 
When it quit she said she was rolling to a stop and it just died, and there was no noise. It does seem to be whirling right over though. I can see the belt it doent seem broken, or is there like a chain on the other side of the shaft?


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## jgrabski (May 31, 2009)

OK, I popped the timing belt upper cover off... belt seems to be in one piece... does this mean I am ok on what was said above, or do I need to check something else? If so, where?


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## teknoracing (Mar 31, 2004)

*Re: (jgrabski)*

Dumb question but is the harness on the camshaft sensor on really tight? Is it clean? Check the wires for any breaks.


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## jgrabski (May 31, 2009)

Not a dumb question... thats the first thing I checked! I put a meter on it and it read 5v (like it said in the haynes manual. I would think the wires are good between the ECM and the sensor if it was reading proped volts.
Anything else?


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## bill64 (Oct 27, 2006)

How many miles are on it? I have seen a belt that the teeth stripped off on the crank, so while it looks ok up top, the belt really was screwed.


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## jgrabski (May 31, 2009)

it has 110k, when I pulled the cover off there was a ton of black "soot" all over the cover. The belt should be spinning with the crank correct? If the starter is spinning, and the timing belt isnt spinning, does that mean the crank is broken?


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## jgrabski (May 31, 2009)

If it is just the teeth ripped off the timing belt, is there a way to see it? The engine just whirls right over when I try to start, and there is no movement on the timing belt from what I can see at the top. Could this be it, also the ODBII just picks up the p0343 code!
Anyone?


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## tainted_demon (Aug 8, 2008)

*Re: (jgrabski)*

If the engine is turning over the timing belt must spin. It sounds like you got insanely lucky if you're not hearing anything hitting the pistons. Take a look at the belt from the side and see if the teeth are still on the belt, of if they are gone, or some are missing.








You can see in this photo (ignore the red circles) that the teeth mesh on the belt and gear, if any are missing that's the culprit. It's also somewhat hard to see if the belt is spinning or not because it moves pretty fast. Maybe make a reference mark on it in whiteout and see if it's actually moving. Like i said above, if the engine is spinning the timing belt must be moving at the same time.


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## jgrabski (May 31, 2009)

Thanks! It is definitely not spinning then! Which pully (gear) sctually drives the belt? If it isnt spinning what would be the matter?


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## tainted_demon (Aug 8, 2008)

*Re: (jgrabski)*

The gear that runs the belt is off the crank at the bottom of the engine, as seen here:








It's behind the passenger side front wheel. You have to take off the wheel, the plastic molding, intercooler 'pancake' pipe, accessory belt pulley and a small cover (maybe an hour or so of work). If you have a 19mm 12 point socket you can turn it with a wrench, it may be hard to turn because your plugs are in so I'd recommend taking them out if you are going this far. A lot of the disassembly information can be found in these 2 threads:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2840728
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3998685
If the starter is engaging, and turning the engine over the crank is turning, because it's directly connected to your flywheel. If that's turning the gear for the timing belt should be as well, which should make the timing gear spin. A visual inspection with some disassembly should quickly show you your problem.
Cheers, hope all goes well.


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## jgrabski (May 31, 2009)

Thanks so much Demon! I'm almost to the lower pulley on the crank! I will update soon!


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## jgrabski (May 31, 2009)

9) Go back to the wheelwell, and use the 6mm allen socket with a ratchet, as well as the 19mm socket and another ratchet in the UTBDIY to remove the four allen bolts holding the crank pulley in place. Set the two ratchets to opposite directions and line them up so you can get leverage. I put the large ratchet against the frame of the car. I marked my pulley where the hole is, even though I didn't notice it can only go on one way- the four bolts are offset slightly. Make SURE you keep the allen socket STRAIGHT when removing those bolts- they can strip easily. One the four bolts are out,-----> the pulley will come right off.<----- Remember, the 19mm bolt in the middle does NOT come off.

This is where I'm at and the pully doesnt look like its coming off. I got the allen heads out, and its solid! Any advice?


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## Buschwick (Feb 12, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *tainted_demon* »_It sounds like you got insanely lucky if you're not hearing anything hitting the pistons.

When I lost mine I could try to crank it and it made no noise whatsoever...I got to have the head rebuilt though. 
If the belt isn't spinning your head is toast.


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## jgrabski (May 31, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Buschwick)*

What exactlt happened to your car?
Update... got down to the timing belt... the teeth are stripped off the belt and the crank was just spinning in place! I cant see where that would hurt the head... it just died and stayed dead.

I guess I'll just order up a new belt and begin that process now. I am going to get the "kit" from MJM, anyone have any onther suggestions, possible things to fix while doing this?


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## Buschwick (Feb 12, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *jgrabski* »_What exactlt happened to your car?


I was slowing down to make a left turn into a gas station then the car just shut off. It made clinking noises when it happened. When I tried turning it over the tach showed like 200rpm or something but it just never fired or sounded like it wanted to fire, it also made no noise at all other than the starter. It rocked slightly too..felt just like the bottom end was turning and that's all. And, just like you, the belt appeared to be in tact but it sheered teeth at the crank.
Bent all 8 exhaust valves and jacked up all 8 guides. You need to pull the head and fix it. There's no getting around a busted head cause you've got an interference motor.


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## jgrabski (May 31, 2009)

I guess when the car died it made no noises, it just shut off. Is there any way to tell if the valves and guides are messed up?
Is there any chance this didnt happen to me?


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## Buschwick (Feb 12, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Most likely your exhaust valves are done. If you want, install a new TB and tensioner and time it up right and try to start it. When it doesn't run you'll know. Then you get to pull the head and do the tbelt all over again after you get a new one or fix it.
Just pull the head before you but the new belt on and you'll see. When mine went it wasn't loud at all...if I had my music turned up I wouldn't have heard a thing.


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## jgrabski (May 31, 2009)

OK, is it going to hurt anything to just replace the timing belt and hope for the best? Excluding the extra work of doing it again, and will I be able to reuse the new timing belt and tensioner?
I am on the fence about pulling the head, I am pretty mechanicly inclined, but this is the first time I have even looked upder the hood of this car.
It also looks like there is a lot to replace, valves, lifters, ect. Could there even be machine work on the head, or can I replace the guides?


_Modified by jgrabski at 12:54 PM 6-2-2009_


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## Buschwick (Feb 12, 2007)

*FV-QR*

My head needed to be pinned in a few spots with a tig welder. Most likely you just need exhaust valves and guides. But mine had a few hairline cracks. 
But honestly I don't know what's wrong. You NEED to pull the head. If the car runs that's cool...but there's no telling what damage is in there. These are interference motors and 99.9% of the time there's gonna be damage when you lose a tbelt. Even if you have compression you still may have cracks in there that need to be addressed.
Pull the head man and stop hoping for the best. It needs to be checked.


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## jgrabski (May 31, 2009)

OK i read the thread about removing the head... it doesnt seem like rocket science, nothing too tricky, just time comsuming and a lot of "removing to remove". Can someone give me a rundown of what I will need just to remove the head, to begin with, when I will go from there.


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## Buschwick (Feb 12, 2007)

*FV-QR*

You'll need to head bolts cause they're stretch bolts (one time use). You'll need a head gasket for sure. I'd replace the exhaust and intake manifold gaskets too.
Water pump
Timing belt
tensioner
Head bolts
head gasket
IM&EM gaskets
might as well do serp belt and roller while you're at it cause those will need to be replaced eventually
If your pistons have deep gouges then you'll need to smooth them with sandpaper lightly.
Hey I was just thinking...If you pop out your plugs you may be able to see down in there and look at the back side of your piston faces...if you see distinct smiley marks then you know your e-valves had a big ole party with the pistons and are shot. They will look just like a smiley without eyes.......--> ) <--


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## jgrabski (May 31, 2009)

Sweet, and no smiley no head removal? That doesnt sound too bad to remove the head... although thats not counting new exhaust valves.
GREATLY appreciate all the help guys!


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## Buschwick (Feb 12, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *jgrabski* »_Sweet, and no smiley no head removal? That doesnt sound too bad to remove the head... although thats not counting new exhaust valves.


Well, I told you that so you could see the smiley faces..not so much see if they're there or not. Most likely they are. I've never really tried to look down into my plugs holes so I dunno how much you'll be able to actually see. Find one that's not at TDC and you'll be able to see more of it I'd imagine.


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