# Oil Filter housing cracked, engine/trans removal required?



## tynee (Dec 19, 2007)

During a routine oil change, the dealer informed me the housing that the oil filter cap screws into cracked and needs replaced. The dealer wants to charge $3500 to drop the engine and trans to replace the housing. Does anyone know if there is an alternative way to do this? Is this reasonable?


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## Jxander (Aug 5, 2008)

tynee said:


> During a routine oil change, the dealer informed me the housing that the oil filter cap screws into cracked and needs replaced. The dealer wants to charge $3500 to drop the engine and trans to replace the housing. Does anyone know if there is an alternative way to do this? Is this reasonable?



Andrew:

According to Bentley and I assume VW, replacement of the oil filter housing does require engine removal. Sorry for the bad news. However, several other tasks that officially require engine removal have been completed by enterprising mechanics. These include starter and transmission replacement. But a cracked oil filter housing seems like a unique problem, unlike starter and transmission problems so the experience base is likely not as good.

As for the price, I was initially surprised the cost was not around $2500 but I looked up the cost of the filter housing and it had a list price of $725 and the cap was $98. The online prices were about $500 and $68. So parts cost at a VW dealer would almost spoil a $1000. Given that engine remove and replace is a around a 20 hour job, $3500 may be reasonable. :banghead: 

Were you leaking oil before the oil change? Have you had the oil changed at a "Jiffy Lube" at some time? Is there any explanation of how the housing could have cracked? Tightening torque is only 25nm for the cap, so it would be pretty easy to over tighten it if someone was not careful.

Jim X


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## tynee (Dec 19, 2007)

Thanks for the research Jim, I appreciate it. Vehicle has only been serviced at one location. The crack was a result of the filter cap being exceedingly hard to take off (I was told). We'll see how this pans out, but I haven't heard of this piece breaking from age or brittleness of the plastic, at least nothing has popped up on this site.


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## EnglishPhaeton (Dec 6, 2010)

tynee said:


> Thanks for the research Jim, I appreciate it. Vehicle has only been serviced at one location. The crack was a result of the filter cap being exceedingly hard to take off (I was told). We'll see how this pans out, but I haven't heard of this piece breaking from age or brittleness of the plastic, at least nothing has popped up on this site.


You pre-empted my question of "who cracked it"? 

Good luck!


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## itsallbeendonebefore (May 13, 2007)

Andrew,

Sadly i can say that this has happened to me while my former indy mechanic was trying to get the oil filter cap off for a regular oil change. The cap is made of plastic and because of this, the part where the socket goes on can lose its threading and be a pain to get out if overtightened previously. 

My former mechanic decided that the best way to get it out was to use a drill (yes you read that right) and other cutting tools to cut the cap so he could take it out and in the process chipped the threading on the oil filter housing and ended up having to replace the whole unit (oil cooler and housing)

The oil cooler and the filter housing is attached to the engine and is impossible to get it out without shifting the engine up and to the right (while facing the engine) or without taking the whole engine out like the vw service manual says. Unfortunately, welding is not really an option since that is made of aluminum. You will have to replace the the whole unit (oil cooler and housing). If your dealer is trying to pass it off as defective, they are def lying. These are sturdy pieces and the threading should NEVER chip unless you take a metal cutting tool or hammer to it (as was in my case)

Your dealer def messed up trying to get the cap out so make sure that the work is done at their expense!. The part costs around $500-$650 as mentioned and the job took some time to do. i hope you have another car while this one is being worked on or ask for a loaner as this is their employee that messed up.

First, please make it clear with your dealer that your mechanic broke it and all the work will be at their expense. you will simply get hosed for $3500 to $4000 for something YOU DID NOT DO. DO NOT SIGN OFF ON THE WORK if they refuse to eat the cost of the parts AND labor. If they refuse to admit their fault, get a lawyer. 

Slajan


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## mike141 (Nov 12, 2011)

tynee said:


> During a routine oil change, the dealer informed me the housing that the oil filter cap screws into cracked and needs replaced. The dealer wants to charge $3500 to drop the engine and trans to replace the housing. Does anyone know if there is an alternative way to do this? Is this reasonable?


 What ever happened? Did you pay them to replace it? Just wondering because the cap on my A8 is stuck on right now and I don't know what to do to take it off. Let us know how you made out


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## tynee (Dec 19, 2007)

Still waiting on the final outcome. If it is unacceptable, I will be contacting my lawyer.


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## killabunny (Sep 16, 2006)

tynee said:


> Still waiting on the final outcome. If it is unacceptable, I will be contacting my lawyer.


 Before you go and contact a lawyer, you can call VW corporate and tell them what happened, they are usually very good about customer service and will usually cover a lot of things(especially when its the dealers fault).


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## tynee (Dec 19, 2007)

Yes, I was referred to them by the dealer, and they actually offered to cover the parts portion. That is greatly appreciatted. But I am waiting on good faith from the dealer.


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## itsallbeendonebefore (May 13, 2007)

Andrew, 

Glad to hear that the dealer is taking responsibility for their actions. The labor in the tech manual states that it takes 24 hours to do the job (due to engine removal). They might try to pass off that labor cost to you ($125 x 24 = $3000) but put up the good fight and as mentioned before, let the lawyer be the last resort if the dealer doesnt back down and suggests you go pound sand. good luck and keep us posted. 

Slajan


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## tynee (Dec 19, 2007)

Car is back together again and running. Although it had a quick problem in not wanting to shift out of park? Only happened once, hasn't since. I'll be looking into that soon.

After talking with the dealer, it was mutually agreed upon to share the remaining cost of the labor. I think this was the best outcome, because I left still happy to bring my car back to them for service, and they left still happy to work on the car for me. I've always enjoyed working with everyone I come in contact with at my dealer, and would hate to dissolve the relationship entirely. Up north I used to leave a box of doughnuts on the passenger seat for the techs to munch on while working. That practice isn't feasible here in Florida. I still believe in life you need 3 people you can trust: A mechanic, a lawyer, and a docter.

What I've learned through this experience:
1. If you are taking your car in for an oil change, take it somewhere familiar with the car, not Jiffy Lube.
2. If you are worried about someone doing damage to your car and decide to change the oil yourself, be very careful working with the oil cap. One false move, and you could be on the hook for upwards of $4000 in repairs. Be sure to use something that will keep the threads from locking together.
3. DO NOT let the vehicle go beyond recommended service intervals (even if lightly driven or highway miles, garaged, etc.). If something happens, you could be on the hook for the cost if the breakage could somehow be related to delayed servicing. 
4. Keep communication open and always look for a way for both parties to "win". In my work we call it "Mutual Gains Negotiations". During discussions, I was already inquiring about costs for repairs I knew I needed completed this upcoming year.


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## tynee (Dec 19, 2007)

Working with Gruvenparts to make an aluminum version of the oil filter cap. I'd like it to have a nice large hefty nut on top to be resistant to rounding off. Anyone else interested in one of these? I'm thinking it would be an econimical way of preventing this problem from happening in the future. Maybe I can start a group buy or something...


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## tomasty (May 24, 2011)

tynee said:


> Working with Gruvenparts to make an aluminum version of the oil filter cap. I'd like it to have a nice large hefty nut on top to be resistant to rounding off. Anyone else interested in one of these? I'm thinking it would be an econimical way of preventing this problem from happening in the future. Maybe I can start a group buy or something...


Sign me up, my filter cap has the same rounded off nut.

Thanks!

Tomas


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## snapdragon (Aug 8, 2006)

I don't know why people tighten these caps down. They are sealed with an o-ring and wouldn't shake loose in a million years.


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## tynee (Dec 19, 2007)

tomasty said:


> Sign me up, my filter cap has the same rounded off nut.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Tomas


So me and Tomasty, anybody else? I might have to make my own at this rate...


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## INFIDEL*INC (Jun 25, 2021)

tynee said:


> During a routine oil change, the dealer informed me the housing that the oil filter cap screws into cracked and needs replaced. The dealer wants to charge $3500 to drop the engine and trans to replace the housing. Does anyone know if there is an alternative way to do this? Is this reasonable?


I know this is old but that's a lie. You do t have to remove the engine or Tran.You pull the front clip off and it's right in front. It's a bitch to remove all the T24-T30 Bolts(especially the two behind the cooler and the one beside your secondary). It can be done, I've got mine torn apart right now doing it.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

INFIDEL*INC said:


> I know this is old but that's a lie. You do t have to remove the engine or Tran.You pull the front clip off and it's right in front. It's a bitch to remove all the T24-T30 Bolts(especially the two behind the cooler and the one beside your secondary). It can be done, I've got mine torn apart right now doing it.
> View attachment 99927


That's great but this is the Phaeton forum. It looks like you have a transverse engine.

Some Phaetons in North America have 4.2 V8 engines. Some have 6.0 W12 engines. Some ROW Phaetons have 3.2 V6 TDI engines. Some have 5.0 V10 TDI engines. There may be some with 3.2 gasoline engines but I'm not sure. ROW got all the engines but North Americans only got the 4.2 V8 or the 6.0 W12. None are transverse.

Phaeton engines are front to back like Bentley engines and Audi engines.

The Phaeton doesn't share its platform with any other VW or Audi. It's on the Bentley Continental platform.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

FYI, this is what a Phaeton with the 4.2 V8 looks like with the front bumper removed.











It's John's Phaeton from this thread:

Timing Belt Replacement in the Snow --- The Fun Way | VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum

Here's a picture of a Phaeton W12 with the radiator in the service position:









It's from this thread:

Generator replacement – the "easy way" | Page 2 | VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum


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## INFIDEL*INC (Jun 25, 2021)

I do apologize. Did not even know a Phaeton even existed. Now that I do, My kids won't be going to college. Nah, I was just trying to make it easier on somebody. I personally went with a Lexus IS350 after I fixed my TDI. Far from a Bentley, But I love it just the same.


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