# TTRS oil change



## JohnLZ7W (Nov 23, 2003)

I was hoping that the RS would be slightly easier to change the oil on than the mk1 and Audi has made it easier to get to the oil filter so that's nice. The drain plug on the other hand is a bit of a pain.










The undertray is made of two pieces. The front half is plastic and held on with 14 T25 torx screws. These are easy to get access to and remove using a regular torx screwdriver. Removing these will get you access to the oil filter, but not the drain plug.



















The back half of the tray is aluminum and is held on with 10 T30 torx screws (M6x1x20mm) and one M8 triple-square screw. On my car these were torqued very tight and attempts to loosen them were starting to strip the threads. I soaked all of them with PB Blaster and let soak for a good 15 minutes and then I was able to crack them loose with a T30 bit on a 3/8 drive ratchet. Make sure you use a good quality torx bit and do not strip the heads. Finally you're left with the triple square, make sure you've actually got one of those in your toolbox before you get started.



















There's a NACA duct in the aluminum tray held on with a few T25 torx screws but removing this will not get you close enough to the drain plug, the whole tray has to come off. You can see it but you can't get to it.










This was just a dry-run to see what tools I'd need and to see if I could fit one of the Fumoto drain plugs to make life easier. I'll update this thread probably next weekend when I actually change the oil.


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## Koa1 (Feb 21, 2012)

You're the man! I've been waiting for DIY posts like this and im coming up on my 1st oil change so this is PERFECT timing. Spent 70K on the car, and I like to do my own basic maintenance, but the service manual subscription price is outrageous. Based on Audi's literature I thought there was a true dry-sump but u clarified that in another post. Thank you for posting this.


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## mageus (Sep 1, 2004)

Wow! Thanx for all the hard work.

Guess it's time to order that filter drain tube. Can anyone confirm that this adapter will work?
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B7_A4-Quattro-2.0T/Tools/ES8616/

I'm going to use my evacuator pump first, then pull the drain plug. If there's not much residual oil, I may stick with the evacuator and not deal with the metal panel.

Regarding the service manual, I don't mind the price but I hate the DRM. I use Linux primarily, since my Windows installs trash themselves every 3 months or so. I'd hate to lose an installation license because Windows died.


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## JohnLZ7W (Nov 23, 2003)

That looks like the right filter drain tool. I ordered a similar one and the filter cup wrench from amazon, prime ftw


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## mageus (Sep 1, 2004)

Well, looks like there are a few options:

- T40057 drain tool + 36mm low profile socket (~$70 FSSS from Amazon)
- Knockoff plastic drain tool for $25
http://www.mobilfaction.com/T40057.html
- Use a Phillips screwdriver / allen wrench to pop the valve open (and risk damaging the valve)

Now to confirm the filter part number and crush washer size.


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## MoreGooderTT (Aug 20, 2011)

What is the reason for making the process of changing the oil so difficult? So that DIY's would be discouraged? (No, I don't own and RS, but still...... seams absurd).


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## JohnLZ7W (Nov 23, 2003)

MoreGooderTT said:


> What is the reason for making the process of changing the oil so difficult? So that DIY's would be discouraged? (No, I don't own and RS, but still...... seams absurd).


My experience with the mk1 is that a lot of routine maintenance isn't really considered when they engineer these things. Work on my friend's Japanese cars (Hondas and Subarus) it is so much easier to get to parts that are needed for routine maintenance.

But as far as the oil change goes it's really not that bad once you get all of the T30 screws cracked loose the first time. That M8 spline bit is a little odd but if you've got the tool it's easy enough to deal with.


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## mageus (Sep 1, 2004)

Oil filter - 06D-115-562
Drain plug w/ captive crush washer (14x22x1.5mm) - N-908-132-02

Now just need the drain plug torque spec.




JohnLZ7W said:


> ...it's really not that bad once you get all of the T30 screws cracked loose the first time.


Or get your first oil change at the dealer. Half of the bolts were loose when I checked.

Yeah, that's why we roll our own.


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## JohnLZ7W (Nov 23, 2003)

Hmm I just got 06D 115 562 for the filter. The box says it is for 4 and 5 cylinder engines.

Edit:

ECS has your part# listed as the caliper cover for a TTS. 06D-115-562 seems to be
the correct part for the filter. Also the drain plug should be 14x1.5x22, not 1.4 (N-908-132-01).

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2213767/


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## mageus (Sep 1, 2004)

JohnLZ7W said:


> Hmm I just got 06D 115 562 for the filter...


Drunk without even drinking! Sorry, fixed it.

Dealer gave me N-908-132-02. Guessing it's the same part, just newer revision.


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## JohnLZ7W (Nov 23, 2003)

An update after the actual oil change last weekend.

The drain plug is an 18mm, I expected it to be 19mm. It's not recessed though so that's nice, you can use a ratcheting wrench on it.

The oil filter housing does NOT have the 36mm socket end cap as some of the manuals referred to. It's shaped like a normal oil filter and has I believe a 74.4mm x 14 flats.

The filter drail tool is awesome. Absolutely no mess, no drips of oil anywhere. One thing to note though, most of the drain tools are brass and you're screwing them into a plastic housing. Mine was going in very tight so to avoid cross-threading I just lubed the threads with some motor oil and it went in much easier.

Don't mess with the orange drain valve without using the tool! If that thing gets knocked off just a bit it could drain all of your oil. The drain tool pushes it straight in and allows it to re-seat properly when the drain tool is removed.

My car took a bit more than 7qts but I had it up in the air and draining for pretty much a full day while I worked on other projects. A normal drain and refill should be right at the 7qt mark.


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## unclubbedvdub (Jul 19, 2002)

One quick update about my recent Oil change.

I used a Mityvac oil vacuum and was able to withdrawal 6.5 quarts from the dipstick. Tool a total of 10 pumps over 5 mins. 

After draining the filter I was able to remove another 0.5 quarts. I tested the drain plug and saw not even a single solid drip of oil. And this was with the car on ramps tilted towards the rear so this looks good for my future oil changes. 

Looks like I can stick to the oil vac and avoid havin to remove the rear aluminum belly pan.


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## Koa1 (Feb 21, 2012)

My Mityvac's on the way. Im super excited to do my first oil change for this car! To clarify, no special tool is needed to remove the oil filter housing? Can I use a universal oil filter tool to unscrew it? Thanks guys.


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## JohnLZ7W (Nov 23, 2003)

Yep you should be able to use a universal spring-loaded oil filter wrench. Just be careful about how much torque you use as the filter housing is plastic. Or you can get the proper sized cup-wrench which should be 74mm 14 flats.


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## mageus (Sep 1, 2004)

Did my oil change. Just to summarize what's been said:

- Drop the front plastic panel to get to the oil filter. (torx screws)
- Use the T40057 filter drain tool ($50), or the $25 plastic one from here: http://www.mobilfaction.com/
- Drop the metal panel to get to the drain plug (17mm socket), 25Nm torque. T30 screws and one M8 triple-square (hex will work)

Parts:
Oil filter - 06D-115-562
Drain plug w/ captive crush washer (14x22x1.5mm) - N-908-132-02
7 quarts oil

Unclubbed, how did you get the oil out so fast? I tried the MityVac and it took me 30", including fiddling with the tube the whole time. The oil just didn't want to come out! I opened the head oil cap. Did you decompress the oil filter housing before draining the oil from the dipstick tube? If the extractor takes so long next time, I'll just get under and pull the drain plug.


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## Koa1 (Feb 21, 2012)

Just did my oil change with a mityvac7201 and it worked perfect. Sucked out the oil while it was still hot and it came out very quickly. Plastic filter drain tool from Mobilfaction also worked flawlessly.


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## unclubbedvdub (Jul 19, 2002)

I had the oil warmed up to operating temps before I extracted it. I'm to sure why it took you so long. I got the majority of the oil out in around 9 minutes then had to fiddle with the tube a bit to get the remaining.


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