# The 01V ZF trans thread!



## rono1 (Apr 23, 2002)

I'm pretty frustrated with one i'm working with now.. I figured hell if anyone else is having such a hard time with theirs maybe some of the info i found can help soothe the 01V headache. Please add as much info as possible!! someone will need it, it's a give in!
ZF trans schematics, parts, how to's, etc, etc..
http://www.rsgear.com/zf_auto.asp
http://www.allroadfaq.com/down...l.pdf
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ZF_5HP19_transmission
http://www.pdfgeni.com/book/audi-o1v-pdf.html
here's a few, i'm sure i'll be adding more rather soon!


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## Variety=Spice (Feb 9, 2006)

*Re: The 01V ZF trans thread! (rono1)*

btw, this transmission is also known as the ZF 5HP19FL and 5HP19FLA with the A designating AWD.
this link: http://www.rsgear.com/catalogs/5HP19FLA.pdf from your pdfgenie is one of my favorite resources.
The Audi A4 B5 Bentley repair manual has EXTENSIVE information about rebuilding this transmission.
My homebrew transmission work on a 2001 01V:


















_Modified by Variety=Spice at 8:56 AM 10-17-2009_


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## rono1 (Apr 23, 2002)

*Re: The 01V ZF trans thread! (Variety=Spice)*

Nice.. 
i may have a few questions for you sir here in the near future about this 01V trans! it seems you know it pretty well by looking at your photo graphs. would you mind helping me out soon? thanks in advance!


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## Variety=Spice (Feb 9, 2006)

*Re: The 01V ZF trans thread! (rono1)*

I'll be glad to help all I can. I'm just a guy who spends most days behind a desk and putter around with Audis on the weekends. I'm still learning about auto transmissions, myself. PM me when you're ready and we can chat via email. My last few A4 projects have all had transmission problems of different kinds that have forced me to learn.


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## rono1 (Apr 23, 2002)

*Re: The 01V ZF trans thread! (Variety=Spice)*

here's my latest








So i've dropped the pan 3x times already.. 1st time to do a filter/oil change, 2nd time to check solenoids and valves. that time i found two plugs unplugged plugged them in, so i bolted the pan up, still having some issues. so i drop the pan again, this time i do the output test to hear each solenoid and valve click. the sloenoids are a go.. however the 1st valve i hear click while the other 3 do not. no transmission power control i hear nothing and the next output test goes stright to error.. 
so i'm leaning towrds about three bad valves all right next to each other or maybe a bad harness? and why can i not get to the end of the test!?


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## Variety=Spice (Feb 9, 2006)

*Re: The 01V ZF trans thread! (rono1)*

just to make sure, the output test can only be done once, then you need to turn the key off and back on to do it again.
I can hear the solenoids clicking with the pan and full of fluid on in a quiet garage.
The solenoids themselves can be tested for resistance and continuity with a multimeter. Bentley has the acceptable specs listed. You might consider checking for voltage at the solenoids during the output test. If you're getting the trigger current but no clicking then I'd definitely suspect the solenoid.
The wiring harness between the transmission and the TCM can also be tested with the procedure in Bentley. 
The electrical connector on the front of the transmission is known for collecting moisture and crud...needing to be cleaned out.


_Modified by Variety=Spice at 8:57 AM 10-17-2009_


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

the output test isn't just for hearing the click. Put a amp clamp around the wires and measure the amps. But if you dont have a solenoid code your probably wasting your time.


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## rono1 (Apr 23, 2002)

*Re: (CoolAirVw)*

i'm throwing a code now.. but before it was not. i actually took the one solenoid during the output test that it went to error on and swapped it with one of the others. now i'm getting the code on two of them.
Where is the best place to resource these things i just got quoted for $500 for the kit from my local trans parts dealer.. i'm thing thats kinda high


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## Variety=Spice (Feb 9, 2006)

*Re: (rono1)*

I'm lucky enough to have a couple cores of the transmissions I work on in my garage, and to have a local Transtar parts house nearby.
http://www.transtar1.com/locations.asp


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## MikkiJayne (Jan 1, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Does anyone have a PDF of the Audi Self Study Program for the 01V? I've been searching for it for ages but can't find it anywhere - not even my Audi dealership!


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## 2ks (Jun 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (MikkiJayne)*

http://www.allroadfaq.com/down...l.pdf
Is this what your looking for?


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## tractionfreak (Dec 29, 2009)

*Front viscous limited slip differential in 01V or 01L?*

On the following site
http://www.autobuyguide.com/19....html
it says about the 1997 A8 that it comes with a "front viscous limited slip differential". There is no information as to whether this applies to the 3.7 L FWD Base model or the 4.2 Quattro. I would tend to think it applied to the FWD model only. In 1998 the same site does not list a front viscous LSD, probably because the A8 now comes with traction control via ABS.
The FWD model has the 01V tranny, right? Can anybody get me the VAG part no. for the VLSD? Might it also fit other ZF 5HP transaxles?


_Modified by tractionfreak at 11:24 AM 12/29/2009_


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## Variety=Spice (Feb 9, 2006)

*Re: Front viscous limited slip differential in 01V or 01L? (tractionfreak)*

My Bentley manual indicates the 97 A8 with FWD does have the 01V or ZF 5HP19FL. 
Does page 16 or 17 of this reference have what you're looking for: http://www.rsgear.com/catalogs/5HP19FL.pdf


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## tractionfreak (Dec 29, 2009)

*Re: Front viscous limited slip differential in 01V or 01L? (Variety=Spice)*

Thanks for the quick reply. No, it's not mentioned int he 5HP-19FL catalog...maybe because it was only used in the 1997 A8. A VAG parts catalog would be a great help.


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## Variety=Spice (Feb 9, 2006)

*Re: Front viscous limited slip differential in 01V or 01L? (tractionfreak)*

The ZF application chart in the link I posted shows this transmission was used in A8 3.7L FWD model years 1997 through 1999. They all have the 3-character code "CJZ".
Please clarify exactly what your question is as it appears to me that the front differential parts are all listed on page 16.
The ZF catalog is *the* definitive source as they are the mfr of the transmission....not VAG. And if ZF changed the type of front differential on one of their transmissions they would have surely changed at least the 3-character transmission code. I've seen them change the code for things as small as upgrading the type of speed sensor used in a transmission.
The same transmission was used in the FWD Porsche Boxster. Maybe a search of the Porsche resouces would be interesting.


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## tractionfreak (Dec 29, 2009)

*Re: Front viscous limited slip differential in 01V or 01L? (Variety=Spice)*

Variety=Spice, you are obviously the expert on these transmissions. I had not looked at the application guide you posted until now. I agree that the shared "CJZ" code for MY 1997-99 seems to indicate that the 1997 A8 O1V was no different from later years. I also understand that the ZF guides are the authoritative source on these transmissions, not VAG.
My question arose from the statement (in a used car buyers' guide that I linked to in my first post) that the 1997 A8 was equipped with a "front viscous limited slip differential". The same information appears in multiple similar databases who probably obtained the information from the same source. Granted, Edmund's (a more authoritative source) does NOT list a VLSD for the 1997 A8 (either FWD or AWD). 
Although the words "front viscous limited slip differential" are sometimes applied with a different meaning, ideally they should mean that a car with driven front wheels has a viscous coupling in parallel with the differential carrier and one of the output shaft as a slip-limiting device. This approach was first used on European Ford Escorts in the 1980's, then on Lancias and Fiats, and more recently on the Volvo S80 and the Mitsubishi Evo VIII RS. A similar arrangement is used on many Subarus and Nissans on the rear. It has also been used in Formula 1. On the Lancias and Fiats, the viscous coupling is located outside the transmission, on the right intermediate driveshaft, while on Subaru and Nissan rear diff applications, it is located inside the differential carrier and the spider gears slightly reduced in size and displaced to one side.
The buying guide I linked to mixes information for the 3.7L and 4.2L versions, so it is not clear whether the alleged VLSD applies to the FWD or AWD versions, or both. Logically, however, because the Quattro should have plenty of traction without it, I would expect the VLSD to apply to the FWD version only. It also makes sense that it would be discontinued when electronic traction control was introduced in 1998.
The VLSD entry in the database I came across could all be a matter of a simple data entry mistake. Maybe mixing up the 1997 A8 Quattro with another car, the 1997 Nissan 200SX, maybe. Or, less likely, maybe the author wrote "front viscous limited slip differential" when the intention was to say "center torque-sensing differential". Or maybe VAG gave wrong information in releases to the US press, and the information only applied to European versions of the A8. 
As the saying goes, "where there is smoke there is a fire". That's why I still think there is a tiny chance that some 1997 A8's came with a front VLSD. If it did, it would make the 1997 A8 a more interesting proposition for those of us who prefer mechanic to ABS-mediated traction management. And it would be interesting to determine which other ZF auto trans equipped cars this VLSD would fit.


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## Variety=Spice (Feb 9, 2006)

*Re: Front viscous limited slip differential in 01V or 01L? (tractionfreak)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tractionfreak* »_Variety=Spice, you are obviously the expert on these transmissions. 

I'm just a weekend hack who has had a few of these 01Vs apart and who has collected a few good references.
Good luck on your quest....maybe you're onto something!


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## MikkiJayne (Jan 1, 2007)

*FV-QR*

I have the transmission from a '97 A8 3.7 FWD and it's just an ordinary differential - no limited slip.
Afaik it is exactly the same as all the other 01Vs, just with a higher final drive


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## Variety=Spice (Feb 9, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (MikkiJayne)*

bump for the new folks asking questions


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## edgar valverde (May 7, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (Variety=Spice)*

I have a question about my 01V
I have a 1999 Audi A6 Quattro and I have been getting some odd behavior from my trans only when I drive it for the first time of the day.
It stays on first gear for a little bit..and then it shifts normally. When I checked for codes I get a code for Stop Light Switch. 
Address 02: Auto Trans
Control Module Part Number: 4B0 927 156 G
Component and/or Version: AG5 01V 2.8l5V USA 8509
Software Coding: 00000
Work Shop Code: WSC 00000
1 Fault Found:
00526 - Brake Light Switch-F 
27-00 - Implausible Signal
Does anybody has an idea whats that for? 
I already checked the switch, the stop light bulbs etc...
I have been servicing my trans with ATF1 from Pentosin and it shift great even at 147,000 miles. Love the car.
Any ideas? 
Adaptation...coding... 
Thanks guys.
Edgar


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## Variety=Spice (Feb 9, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (edgar valverde)*

sounds normal, esp in cool weather. the ECM will hold the car in 1st gear to help it warm up to help with emissions.
the brake light code will go away when you step on the brake...completely normal.


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

How do you remove the section behind the torque converter, inside the bell-housing? I removed all the torx but can't get a hold of the thing to pull it out. The splines to the TC are sticking out of the center of the component I'm talking about.

edit: seems that part I'm having trouble removing is the pump. Also, do you have any tips (special tools) for tearing down the tranny completely?

Thanks,
Rey


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## Variety=Spice (Feb 9, 2006)

you'll need to remove the valve body to access the 4 or 5 sealing tubes behind it. Remove those black sealing tubes and then the pump will pull out the front. I take a hose clamp and secure some nylon webbing to the front pump shaft and pull a bit to break it loose.

you only need to pull th 5 in the front, not the 3 near the rear unless you're going to pull that rear tower assembley


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

Much thanks!


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

First set of inner clutches were toast, severe metal-on-metal wearing.


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## Variety=Spice (Feb 9, 2006)

good work. now figure out which component failed and allowed those clutch discs to slip/burn


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## rono1 (Apr 23, 2002)

TTT.. 

Variety sir.... long time my friend and now i have another 01V please me sir! if you check the threads you'll see a stuck in 01v hell.. can you chime in please... many thanks in advance...


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## bogdan xtr (Dec 29, 2010)

*o1v max torque*

Hi there, or here and a happy new year!

can you please tell me what is the max torque handled by this transmission, besides the 300 nm as zf says...

i recently had some errors on mine, incorrecy gear ratio 17114, 17116m both with 0730, 0732 35-00 message and i realised it is somethig broken inside.

Combined with a chip to my allready 19. tdi 131 hp, and stock 310 nm, results that i am allready way of producer specs for this gear box.

should i reverse the chip or does it handle more ?

thank you,

Bogdan


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## Variety=Spice (Feb 9, 2006)

42


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## bogdan xtr (Dec 29, 2010)

42...like 420 nm?


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## Variety=Spice (Feb 9, 2006)

.


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## olong_us (Nov 3, 2006)

Has anyone had any luck with this? http://www.sonnax.com/product-lines/transmission/parts/2239 an oversized pump bushing to salvage the pump housing?


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

olong_us said:


> Has anyone had any luck with this? http://www.sonnax.com/product-lines/transmission/parts/2239 an oversized pump bushing to salvage the pump housing?


You do understand that it requires the pump to be machined oversized then the bushing must be machined to size? The cost to pay a machinest to do that would be more than the cost of the pump. 

But for volume rebuilders thats a great option because they have on staff machinests and the machines to do it.


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## olong_us (Nov 3, 2006)

yes i understand that the pump half would need machining. Their are two part# for the bushing, one is machine to size for the ID of the bushing the other isn't, im sure cost to machine the housing wouldn't exceed the cost of a new pump housing


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## casalex78 (Apr 22, 2011)

*help,please*

i just bought an audi a6 2003 v6 3.0l from a dealer
in 2 days check engine came on
i"ve scanned 
code:17125 po741
went to audi dealership
3700$ for replacing tc
i"ve asked them if is there any posibility that is something else wrong like:low tranny fluid or a solenoid valve 
no,they say
the car has only 106 000 miles and one owner with clean carfax
what do you guys think?


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## Variety=Spice (Feb 9, 2006)

I would insist on giving the lemon back to them and take my money back. See a lawyer if they give you any static


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## PassatMrT (Oct 10, 2009)

Although I've started a thread about it I thought I'd post this link to a 5HP-19FL valve body rebuild DIY I did on a Boxster (same trans). PM me on Passatworld if you need any more info or further pics and I'd be happy to help. 

http://www.passatworld.com/forums/61-b5-information-base/316257-5hp-19fl-valve-body-rebuild-diy.html


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## Variety=Spice (Feb 9, 2006)

bump for the folks who have been asking questions about the 01V lately


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## PassatMrT (Oct 10, 2009)

Sad to say, but it doesn't look like there are many people asking questions.


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## sbin (May 28, 2008)

Have a couple cars running ZF 5hp-19fla 01v transmissions and will be going to pullapart junk yard in the morning to pull a good spare/core to keep the cars on the road.Good thread and the link to Passat world is excellent.


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## PassatMrT (Oct 10, 2009)

sbin said:


> Good thread and the link to Passat world is excellent.


Well thank you very much. Also, I figured if you're looking to put together a good transmission I'd let you know that I have an upgraded IPT torque converter for sale if you're looking for one.


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## Davaith (Oct 10, 2008)

Hello guys. I hope this thread isnt dead yet. I still feel like a noob asking questions but ive searched a bit about my issue and everyone just seems to want me to replace my trans. I think that maybe there is better solution to just r+r my trans. My vehicle has the 01v zf but its awd. Problem is that when the car is in "D" and driven normally it will make its shifts normally until it gets to its 4th shift. There, it basically dumps the gear and lets the engine rev like if it was in nuetral. It goes into limp mode and displays code p0717. And i have to put it in park while i shut off the car and restart it. Limp mode gone and then back to the same problem when it gets to the 4th gear. The tip works and temporarily resolves the issue by driving and holding the "3" gear. Ive seen this issue on another forum but it was never resolved, or atleast never publicly. Ive come to the hypothesis that it could either be the clutch pack E and or the solenoid that controls that said clutch. Maybe im wrong since the 5th clutch also uses that solenoid but ive never been past 4th to even rule it out. Idk where to start. I have no prior knowledge of how it drove before since i bought the car not running. No trans fluid in it before either. So i may have bitten more than i can chew.. Other than that car shifts in to PRN123 just fine. Thanks forthe time in advance for reading.


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## ajshoe (Aug 26, 2008)

*02 passat auto 1.8T*

have a 2002 passat with the 5HP-19FL tranny. pulling code 17114 - will not move. Park works, put it in any gear - engine races - no movement. Dash show gear when shifting. replaced TCM - no change. any suggestions before pulling tranny ??


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## PassatMrT (Oct 10, 2009)

ajshoe said:


> have a 2002 passat with the 5HP-19FL tranny. pulling code 17114 - will not move. Park works, put it in any gear - engine races - no movement. Dash show gear when shifting. replaced TCM - no change. any suggestions before pulling tranny ??


Sounds like your front pump is gone. You'll likely need a complete rebuild. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news


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## ajshoe (Aug 26, 2008)

PassatMrT said:


> Sounds like your front pump is gone. You'll likely need a complete rebuild. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news


I got the passat about a year ago 105K and it was rebuilt @104K. also had rebuilt torque converter installed with rebuild. has 121K now. tranny shop I took it to said it had oil pressure. they didn't remove pan thou - don't know how that came to that conclusion. 
so - I'll drop pan - look at oil, pan, and if looks good - tranny needs rebuild ??
is there a way to test oil pressure easily ?


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

ajshoe said:


> I got the passat about a year ago 105K and it was rebuilt @104K. also had rebuilt torque converter installed with rebuild. has 121K now. tranny shop I took it to said it had oil pressure. they didn't remove pan thou - don't know how that came to that conclusion.
> so - I'll drop pan - look at oil, pan, and if looks good - tranny needs rebuild ??
> is there a way to test oil pressure easily ?


quick and dirty ... pull cooler line and start. If you end up with a mess then there is at least enough pressure to push fluid through the cooler line. Y

real ..... put a pressure gauge on the line pressure tap.

Edit: I cannot find a pressure tap on a spare transmission I have here, nor can I find information on testing pressure on any of my tech sources. Point being... there is no line pressure tap. I spoke incorrectly as most every transmission in the world has a pressure tap.


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## ajshoe (Aug 26, 2008)

want to do line pressure test - where is line pressure tap ??? searched SM and can't find location. also have a used tranny - can't find tap on this 5hp19fl ??


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

My apologies... there is no pressure tap. Its quick and dirty method or none at all.


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## ajshoe (Aug 26, 2008)

disconnected oil cooler lines at radiator - no oil with motor running. oil pump most be toast. what would cause a catastrophic failure on oil pump ?? This tranny was rebuilt 18 months ago and only has 16K miles on it. oil was clean - no dirt or pieces. Time for removal.


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## ajshoe (Aug 26, 2008)

pulled tranny. TC was stuck on tranny. used visegrips and slide pulley to get it apart. tangs on oil pump are broke off and TC shaft with bronze bearing is seized. TC and oil pump are trash. What causes this ???


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## ajshoe (Aug 26, 2008)

oil pump tangs were broke off due to the pump seized up. oil pump screws T27 were way too tight. some of them were more than 100 ft/lbs, 2 of them I broke 2 T27 sockets - had to grind them off. I believe this rebuild was not done correctly. oil was clean, no debris, and no material on magnets. 3 screws on the valve body were unscrewed completely (filter kept them from dropping into pan). TC was seized from running engine after oil pump was dead - no lubrication on bronze sleeve. That was my fault. Car runs great now (125 MILES) - always good when its running !


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## H100VW (May 10, 2001)

Hey fellas, I just got home from a 3 hour bike ride to have my wife turn up with our A4wagen, EZR 5 speed tip, not going into reverse.

It backed out of the garage ok and I have driven it myself a fair bit over the holidays with no issues. 

I went out to confirm her complaint, you have to do this don't you :laugh: Anyway, I drop it in reverse and it doesn't load up against the handbrake. So I rev it a little, hefty bang and much reversing. 

Double checked and it drives ok forward. 

I scanned it with VCDS and no codes. Ran an output test and I can hear most of the solenoids go but there's a load of kids playing ball in the street. So maybe missed some of them.

The car has 24000km, 15000 miles or so. I dropped the fluid and filter 2.5 years ago when I bought it. No nasty surprises then and it has run well since until today.

Any ideas for me??

Thanks and Happy Holidays

Gavin


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

Usually a missing gear would be a broken piston or broken drum.


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## H100VW (May 10, 2001)

CoolAirVw said:


> Usually a missing gear would be a broken piston or broken drum.


It does reverse after the bang, seems like the oil thinning with heat makes a difference. I am going to pull the pan and check this http://www.searchautoparts.com/motorage/powertrain-pro/transmissions-slipping-bmw-audi-and-vw A VW tech mate of mine thinks it's worth a shot for the potential cost saving over dropping the box out for deep strip.

Cheers

Gavin


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

H100VW said:


> It does reverse after the bang, seems like the oil thinning with heat makes a difference. I am going to pull the pan and check this http://www.searchautoparts.com/motorage/powertrain-pro/transmissions-slipping-bmw-audi-and-vw A VW tech mate of mine thinks it's worth a shot for the potential cost saving over dropping the box out for deep strip.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Gavin


That is definatley worth checking. But if you see any "aluminum rat turds" in there that is the edges of the broken drum. But a cracked piston wont show any evidence as the crack doesn't make any material that you will see on a pan inspection.

Be sure to keep this thread updated on whether it helps or not, so that others can learn from what you do and try the same fix if it fixes yours.


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## H100VW (May 10, 2001)

CoolAirVw said:


> That is definatley worth checking. But if you see any "aluminum rat turds" in there that is the edges of the broken drum. But a cracked piston wont show any evidence as the crack doesn't make any material that you will see on a pan inspection.
> 
> Be sure to keep this thread updated on whether it helps or not, so that others can learn from what you do and try the same fix if it fixes yours.


I will update the thread when I have had it apart. Putting it off with the 35+ degrees we are expecting and all the useful gearbox shops being closed until Monday.

Gavin


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## H100VW (May 10, 2001)

Fingers crossed this is it.

 You can just see the O ring sticking out at 1 oclock



The clip that holds it in had snapped/broken off and was stuck on a magnet in the oil pan.. So maybe there was some stress on one side that caused the O ring to pop out?


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## H100VW (May 10, 2001)

Good news everyone.

Picked up an O ring from transmission shop and he gave me a piece of steel to fashion a clip from.

Pictures of this to follow.




Looks horrible but I am a function over aesthetics guy 





Filter and oil plus pump. The car was only just off the ground and filling the box last time was hard work. This pump was great and I now have a massive left shoulder from pumping 7 litres through it 

I had 4 litres of fluid from the first change I did 2 odd years back and bought 2 more litres with the new filter. Re-assembled everything, new pan gasket etc. Used my new pump to fill the box up, it took a bit over 4 litres before I had to start the engine. Then I used up the whole of the 6 litres I had, I could just get a finger in the filler and feel over the edge and it came out dry. Off to the shops for another 2 litres of fluid. 

Valvebody back in place and I should mention the number of bolts holding it. They are t 3 different lengths but you can't get them all to fit and have some in the wrong place. Also the 4 longest skinny ones, go right through the VB and pull down another block onto the top of the bit the VB bolts too. I had a panic here briefly as this block had moved and the holes didn't line up.

One of the wires in the loom had moved it when I disconnected the solenoids to get the VB out. I managed to get a finger on it from the rear end of the box and lined it up.

It took 1,5 of those too. Greedy gearbox.  I only dropped 5 out before I started.

Shifting in the garage on stands was encouraging, backed straight out onto the road, no dramas.

Test drive and smooth as silk, it hasn't been this good since we got it. 

Really pleased with the job. :laugh:


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

I think your pic might be a little misleading to other readers here... It looks kinda like you did this repair without pulling the VB. I'm sure you did pull the VB but I just want to remind everyone who reads this in the future that this isn't a simple repair of pulling the pan and changing that 0-ring. You have to remove the VB to do this. ( or at least you have to remove that section of the VB to do it). 

I think its awesome that you fixed it!


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## H100VW (May 10, 2001)

CoolAirVw said:


> I think your pic might be a little misleading to other readers here... It looks kinda like you did this repair without pulling the VB. I'm sure you did pull the VB but I just want to remind everyone who reads this in the future that this isn't a simple repair of pulling the pan and changing that 0-ring. You have to remove the VB to do this. ( or at least you have to remove that section of the VB to do it).
> 
> I think its awesome that you fixed it!



This is correct, hopefully this is more obvious with my photos. 

Gavin


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

H100VW said:


> This is correct, hopefully this is more obvious with my photos.
> 
> Gavin


The new photos that you put in the previous post clear that up.


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## saffrazm (Aug 15, 2014)

*Same exact issue..*



Davaith said:


> Hello guys. I hope this thread isnt dead yet. I still feel like a noob asking questions but ive searched a bit about my issue and everyone just seems to want me to replace my trans. I think that maybe there is better solution to just r+r my trans. My vehicle has the 01v zf but its awd. Problem is that when the car is in "D" and driven normally it will make its shifts normally until it gets to its 4th shift. There, it basically dumps the gear and lets the engine rev like if it was in nuetral. It goes into limp mode and displays code p0717. And i have to put it in park while i shut off the car and restart it. Limp mode gone and then back to the same problem when it gets to the 4th gear. The tip works and temporarily resolves the issue by driving and holding the "3" gear. Ive seen this issue on another forum but it was never resolved, or atleast never publicly. Ive come to the hypothesis that it could either be the clutch pack E and or the solenoid that controls that said clutch. Maybe im wrong since the 5th clutch also uses that solenoid but ive never been past 4th to even rule it out. Idk where to start. I have no prior knowledge of how it drove before since i bought the car not running. No trans fluid in it before either. So i may have bitten more than i can chew.. Other than that car shifts in to PRN123 just fine. Thanks forthe time in advance for reading.


Hi guys,

I have this same exact issue... Davaith, can you tell me how you resolved this issue? I hope you guys arew still around helping people out. I know CoolAirVW has replied to my original thread also...


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## saffrazm (Aug 15, 2014)

*Help Needed. Please :]*



Variety=Spice said:


> I'll be glad to help all I can. I'm just a guy who spends most days behind a desk and putter around with Audis on the weekends. I'm still learning about auto transmissions, myself. PM me when you're ready and we can chat via email. My last few A4 projects have all had transmission problems of different kinds that have forced me to learn.


Hi Variety Spice, 

I have seen a couple posts where people run into the same problem i currently have, however nobody ever seems to post solutions, for whatever reasons there is. I am humbly asking your advice on my problems with my 01V. Here is the link to a Thread i started.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...1V-No-4th-Gear


Please advise.


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## Variety=Spice (Feb 9, 2006)

I contributed my 2 cents to your thread.


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## feregrinoqro (Jan 10, 2015)

*need help l want to rebuild my tranny*

hey guys l just got a 04 Passat TDI was not running previous owner said bad tc so l removed the tranny found the bushing on the trans oil pump oversize so l installed new trans oil pump and tc put all together the car runs but has a hard shift from 2nd to 3rd and 4th to 5th DTCS p0732 and p0735 l don't have money to get a reman trannny so if l rebuild this clutches and orings or l may have hard parts damage?
PLEASE HELP 
THANKS


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## Luke-Br (Feb 10, 2015)

*New here with a trashed tranny *

Hi Guys,

Hopefully this topic is still alive because I urgently need some help.

I am dutch, but living in brasil and since last august I have a audi A4 B5 2,8 30 Valve with a 5 Hp 19 automatic tiptronic transmission.
The car has been badly abused by previous owner(s) and when I got it the transmission was allready in emergency mode.
An oilchange done by me myself resolved that temporary allthough I did not change the filter, because it is / was unavailable here,

This week the transmission became worse and starting to slip and downshifting and upshifting by itself eventhough the position of the throtle did not change when that happened.
Also rattling noises becaime frequent and increased in number.
I discovered I had a serious oilleak on the connections from the pipes that seem to go to the radiator.
I resolved these leaks and decided to check the oillevel and complete the oil (again without changing the filter)

What I noticed is that I was not able to ut in more then 4 ltrs before the oil started spilling, even though according to the literature there should be 6 ltr in the transmission.
Unfortunately the oilchange did not make a difference, and yesterday back from work going home it seems the tranny really packed up 
In such level it seemed to be seizing up and even killing the engine. Car died about 4 times because of this and I barely made it home .
Decided to let the enigen e cool of firt and this morning started up the car again. Oil and water of the engine were ok, and engine ran normal. When I shift in reverse though I onlyhear a loud rattling but nothing happens

The problem therefor really has to be in the transmission.

Does anybody can give me an advice about what can be the problem

Also: does somebody know where I can download a repair or overhaul manual for this transmission?

kind regards,

Luke


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## gsferraro (Sep 22, 2014)

After you fixed the leak, did you fill the trans with the engine running?


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## Variety=Spice (Feb 9, 2006)

Yes, ensure you used the proper procedure to fill the transmission. Engine running (like gsferraro said) and you need to shift through all the gears so the transmission sucks up fluid into all the passages & ports. If you PM me your email address I'll send you a pdf copy of that procedure.

The DVD ROM Bentley repair manual has an extensive section on rebuilding the transmission. They're usually about $80 new.
http://www.bimmerparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1611830&itempk=153054&mfr=Bentley&weight=0.35


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## Luke-Br (Feb 10, 2015)

Hi GSFERRARO and Variety,

Yes after I fixed the leak I filled the Tranny again with running engine.
because I was not sure how much oil I had lost, and also because I knew the total amount of oil should be about 6 liters I just drained the rest of the oil to get an idear how much oil I lost.
Turned out to be allmost half of the oil (almost 3 ltr gone)
So I jst filled it up with new oil, but the weird thing was I was just only able to get about 4,5 ltr in.
So monday I again tried to top it up but nothing. could not get in more then there was allready, about 4,5 ltr

Today I managed to drive the car back to my workshop ( I have a garage) and took of the carter.
The reverse gear makes a sickening noise
And again... no more then those 4,5 ltr came out
Ever since I have this car I regulary get the beeps and oilcan warning on my dash. I allways thought that had to do with the engine oil, but by now I am pretty sure it has to be .the tranny oil level. Can anybody confirm that the tranny also has oil level alarm warning?
And can anybody explain me why I cannot get mor then 4,5 liter in the tranny before it spills? Have to add to this that I do not have VAG com nor do I have a thermo to measure the oil temp, conform the right way of filling it. But allmost 2 ltrs less?

Hope you guys can help me a bit further, because even though I have a Land Rover Defender specialised garage, an automatic gearbox is a no go area for me 

regards Luke


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## gsferraro (Sep 22, 2014)

If your just draining the pan, you wont get all the oil out, the torque converter holds a few quarts. I dont know of any chime for oil level on a trans, the only thing ive seen is a light on the dash if the fluid gets too hot. Gary


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## Luke-Br (Feb 10, 2015)

hi Guys,

One more thing.

I have been braking my brains trying to figure out the reason I can only get 4,5 liters of oil in the tranny before it starts to spill. Then I cam up with this:

If the oil pump is buggered it doesn t fill the gears properly (wich could be the cause of the horrible crunching sound in the reverse gear? as well as the slipping gears? )
and the level in the oilpan stays the same even with running engine.

Is there a way to test if the oilpump is working or not? Myself I was thinking of bypassong the oilcooler by connecting the feed and return pipe to oilcooler wuth a transparent hose.

Can someone tell me witch pipe is feed pipe to cooler and wich pipe is return pipe from cooler?

Also, are oilpump failures on these transmissions common or well known failures?

Can someone eleborate on my theory of the oilpump failure?

Luke


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## gsferraro (Sep 22, 2014)

The zf19 transmission is also used in bmw cars, i see alot of the pumps go bad in bmw, what happens is the bushing becomes dislodged and starts to spin, when this happens trans fluid pours out the bellhousing. When you fill these cars do you add oil til it runs out, then start the carand add oil again til it runs out. Im not 100% sure which is the return line on that car. Gary


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## Luke-Br (Feb 10, 2015)

*more questions, more doubts*

Hi Guys,

Back again with more questions and more doubts.

Been spending hours reading on the internet and learning about this transmission. But I still have some doubts.
So far my theories are the folowing:

1: is that either the oilpump is not working or generating enough pressure to engage the various gears with this chilling crunching sound as a result when I put it in revers.
I am about to test the oilpump by disconnecting the feed and reverse oil lines to the cooler and instead put a transparand hose there to see if any il comes up when running the engine

2: Oilpump is working but does not produse enough flow because of the low oil level....after all I was only able to fill it up with about 4 liters....wich means 2 liters short.
I still do not understand WHY it oly took 4 ltrs instead of 6...anyone have an answer to that?
If the oilpump test (as doscribed under 1 shows the pump is working, I am thinking of forcing in 6 liters via the oil cooler return pipe connection.
(at this moment the pan is off so I know for sure the tranny is empty , and thus I know for a fact it needs 6 liters , so the filling method in this case is not so important.

3: The torque converter and / or reverse gear drum could also be stuffed, in that case nor the fixes in 1 or 2 will work, allthough I did not find any debris in the pan.
If some gear breaks in the tranny, will debris end up in the pan eventualy? Besides a broken magnet did not find anything to worry about in the pan

I allready ordered the VAG Com software and cable so I am concidering waiting with all things mentioned before untill I can hook the car up to my notebook

Pls guys tell me what you think 

regards....Luke


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## snowball II (Dec 13, 2004)

Hi everyone, 

Just picked up a passat sight unseen that ended up being in limphome mode (seller said it was slow, but no slipping). First thing I did after getting it was scan and pull these codes: 

17114 - Gear Ratio Monitoring 
P0730 - 003 - Incorrect Gear Ratio
17195 - Excessive Clutch Slippage 
P0811 - 003 - - MIL ON

Googling finds lots of people with these codes, but not much beyond "you need a new transmission". I haven't had a chance to check the TCM yet, but I'm guessing it's not the problem. Car was able to move in D, but as seller said slowly. That was because limp mode had it in 4th gear. As soon as I cleared the codes I got nothing. Reverse works great, engages all snappy like. D does not. Moved it through all gears, and into Tip mode and it was as if the car was in neutral (even started rolling back). Eventually with a little revving it'll retrip limp home with a big clunk and be able to move again in 4th. 

It frustrating that the default answer from most people is "it's borked get a new one", and like most people autoboxes are completely foreign to me, but I want to diagnose and try and fix myself. I've done lots of searching and trying to track down service docs both now and before, my current guess is that there's something wrong with the "A" clutch as that seems responsible for forward motion in 1-4. 

I really have no idea how these things all work though and it does engage something in limp mode (4th, right?), which would mean that clutch works? Dunno. Sure it's not as simple as a solenoid. Valve body? Converter? Oil Pump? 

Thanks for any help!

EDIT: Car is '05, so it shouldn't have the bad converter.


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## snowball II (Dec 13, 2004)

Been thinking about this and doing reading (instead of studying for my anatomy final :banghead. According to VW/ZF literature, putting the lever in 4-3-2-1 doesn't actually shift it into those gears, it just prevents it from shifting into 5th (in the case of 4) or 4th and 5th (when placed in 3), etc. So if it's parked, I clear the codes, put the lever in 4/3/2, it's still just in 1. So I guess if I'm just getting neutral when I'm sitting there at a stop, that's actually only 1st gear that's gone doesn't matter what position the lever is in. FWIW when I put it into Tip mode it didn't respond to moving the lever up or down either, but I assume that's normal... 

I'm wondering what would happen if I got it up to speed in 4th gear then cleared the code? Would it then stay in 4th (or 3rd/whatever gear was appropriate)? In which case that would give me some more diagnostic info. Lost all forward gears vs just 1st. Guess I'll have to give it a shot tomorrow. :laugh:


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## snowball II (Dec 13, 2004)

I'm totally just gonna make this my own private thread I guess. 

Got a chance to play around with it this afternoon. Took it out on the road and once I got it cranking along at 60mph, I cleared the transmission codes. Interestingly, I thought limp mode put it in 4th, but limp mode appears to be 5th gear? At 60mph I cleared the code and moved the shifter into 4th, at which point I lost all forward acceleration. I moved it into Tip mode, and found I only had acceleration in 5th gear. In 4-3-2-1 it was as if being in neutral. 

Actually 4th gear might have had some very mild acceleration with massive slippage. Given this is the case, I'm guessing that it is in fact the A clutch as that engages 1-4 as I originally suspected. Additionally 4th and 5th also engage with the E & F clutch. Since it seems to be slipping when in 4th I'm guessing the E&F clutch together are enough to partially engage 4th but and cause it to slip but not enough to fully engage since A clutch is fubared. 

Also got a new code for Incorrect Gear Ratio (4th), so that's progress, right? 

How's that sound? 

*crickets*


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## gsferraro (Sep 22, 2014)

Hello,
The sleeve in the f clutch drum on those zf19 units, like to move causing a pressure loss at the sealing rings. This will cause flares into 4th usually when hot. Just had a 4th problem on a bmw and found the sleeve to be moved, you really have to know how the sleeve sits to tell if it moved. Gary


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## Variety=Spice (Feb 9, 2006)

check the basics first:

-make sure the multifunction switch is properly adjusted

-make sure the fluid level is correct

-perform a diagnostic output test on the transmission solenoids (a bad solenoid could feasibly cause the problems you're experiencing)

After that you're left with replacing or rebuilding the transmission. Your diagnostics are fun and hopefully you've nailed where the problem is, but if you're planning to keep the car long term (vs just fixing and flipping it) then you'll want to replace all the hard and soft parts that come in rebuild kits as long as you're in there and pulling it all apart.


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## snowball II (Dec 13, 2004)

Variety=Spice said:


> check the basics first:
> 
> -make sure the multifunction switch is properly adjusted
> 
> ...



Hey! Thanks for the reply. I think the multifunction switch is ok. I'm not sure if there's another diagnostic, but I checked the basic readings of it with my vag-com and all the readings were correct P, R, N, D, Z1, Z2 etc. Is there something more in depth to do?

I'm going to check the fluid today, had to get it up to my garage. I'd love it if the fluid were low, but I'm guessing not. Should be interesting to see just how stinky and dirty the stuff is in there at least. 

I tried to do the diagnostic test with the VAG com, but kept getting some error message when I clicked to start the test that "conditions weren't correct" to start test or something along those lines. I'll try it again. 

Thanks for the input!


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## snowball II (Dec 13, 2004)

Went to check the transmission fluid, and opened the wrong plug (I did say I don't know a lot about ATs). Ended up draining a quart or so before I could get it back in, so just ended up draining it all out. Black as night. Pulled the pan, I can probably JB Weld a complete A drum from the metal bits I found in there. 

What does this mean as far as rebuilding it? My impression is that I'm pretty much going to have to take EVERYTHING apart to clean. I'd been thinking about getting another decent tranny and mixing and matching the pieces. This is a B5 TDI tranny BTW, so some of the bits are different, but I found the 5HP19FL parts lists for both the TDI and Audi/VW transmissions. Pretty interesting stuff. Looks like all the clutches and drums are identical, as well as the main VB (but some of the "valve housings" that bolt on to the plate are different). I assume the VB is probably toast, as the sludge will have worn out passageways, right? 

What else will I need to replace? Clutches/drums, seal kit, probably valve body. converter? tranny cooler? At this point I'm strongly contemplating a 5-speed swap, but would be interested in learning more about ATs so any input is welcomed.


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## snowball II (Dec 13, 2004)

gsferraro said:


> Hello,
> The sleeve in the f clutch drum on those zf19 units, like to move causing a pressure loss at the sealing rings. This will cause flares into 4th usually when hot. Just had a 4th problem on a bmw and found the sleeve to be moved, you really have to know how the sleeve sits to tell if it moved. Gary


Thanks, Gary. I'll check it out when/if I tear into it. Would hate to get it back together to find it's still borked. 

Variety=Spice, do you have any more information of what year/edition your bentley is? I have the Passat B5 Bentley, but there's no information on 01v rebuilding, just has a bit of info on removing torque converter and differential, sounds like the Audi B5 has a lot more info?


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## Variety=Spice (Feb 9, 2006)

My Audi B5 A4 electronic Bentley has the extensive rebuild info.

The diagnostic output tests for the transmission can only be done one time per cycle of the ignition switch to 'on'.

I personally wouldn't worry about the valve body. If the chunks are as large as you say there's no way they could get sucked up through the filter.

Sometimes you can find parts like a single transmission basket on eBay. I probably have one in a box in my garage somewhere.


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## snowball II (Dec 13, 2004)

Variety=Spice said:


> My Audi B5 A4 electronic Bentley has the extensive rebuild info.
> 
> The diagnostic output tests for the transmission can only be done one time per cycle of the ignition switch to 'on'.
> 
> ...


Cool, I'll check into the electronic Bentley if I run into issues, I have a copy of the ZF 5hp19 rebuild manual, but not sure how much different the FL/FLA is. From looking online, it seems similar enough for my goals. 

I think I probably undersold the magnitude of the issue, but I'd appreciate your input. The fluid was definitely black and filled with friction material and flakes. Here's what was in the pan, it definitely saw some grinding:


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## conradz (Jun 5, 2015)

*01V Issue*

I recently replaced the torque converter on my 2001 Audi S4 (tiptronic). I somehow didn't seat the torque converter correctly (I'm sure I double checked, but still...) and busted the oil pump. I then pulled everything apart and replaced the oil pump. Now I have everything back together and it mostly works except the transmission won't get out of Drive. In Park, Reverse, Neutral, or anything else you can tell there is load on the engine/drivetrain, and it won't rev very high at all. Park does correctly lock the front wheels and Neutral does allow it to coast when the engine is off, but when the engine is on it tries to drive forward in Reverse, Neutral, or anything else. Any help is appreciated!

I did take apart and inspect the front clutch packs that were easy to get to and disassembled it enough to replace the oil pump. I tried to be sure everything was assembled correctly but something must have gone wrong...  I'm kind of at a loss of what to check next.


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## PassatMrT (Oct 10, 2009)

conradz said:


> I recently replaced the torque converter on my 2001 Audi S4 (tiptronic). I somehow didn't seat the torque converter correctly (I'm sure I double checked, but still...) and busted the oil pump. I then pulled everything apart and replaced the oil pump. Now I have everything back together and it mostly works except the transmission won't get out of Drive. In Park, Reverse, Neutral, or anything else you can tell there is load on the engine/drivetrain, and it won't rev very high at all. Park does correctly lock the front wheels and Neutral does allow it to coast when the engine is off, but when the engine is on it tries to drive forward in Reverse, Neutral, or anything else. Any help is appreciated!
> 
> I did take apart and inspect the front clutch packs that were easy to get to and disassembled it enough to replace the oil pump. I tried to be sure everything was assembled correctly but something must have gone wrong...  I'm kind of at a loss of what to check next.


I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you bust that pump, everything has to come apart as these transmissions are ULTRA sensitive to even the slightest obstruction in the valve bodies. The reason being is that in an attempt to make the valve bodies compact, the valve body pistons need to exert large hydraulic leverages. This results in very high line pressures needed to actuate the clutch packs. 

soooo, if any debris gets caught in one of the valve body orifices, the trans won't work. 

If you really want to try and salvage things, I would suggest pulling apart the valve bodies and cleaning them out. Here's my DIY guide http://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...HP-19FL-surgery-mit-pics?p=5481700&viewfull=1

you'll need to get new gaskets, but you can probably re-use the orifices and such. Just make sure it's surgically clean.


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## conradz (Jun 5, 2015)

I should clarify that when I busted the oil pump it just sheared off the fingers on it, they were still sitting in there when I took it apart so I picked them out. Otherwise the pump was in good condition. So I'm not sure that any debris for in the fluid from that but I could be wrong.


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## conradz (Jun 5, 2015)

PassatMrT said:


> If you really want to try and salvage things, I would suggest pulling apart the valve bodies and cleaning them out. Here's my DIY guide http://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...HP-19FL-surgery-mit-pics?p=5481700&viewfull=1
> 
> you'll need to get new gaskets, but you can probably re-use the orifices and such. Just make sure it's surgically clean.


How would I buy the valve body gaskets; can they be bought separately from the entire transmission rebuild kit? According to my parts list this kit (http://www.thectsc.com/products/overhaul-kit-5hp19fla-205-4.html) would have the gasket but I don't think I need the whole kit just to reassemble the valve body. Is there a kit just for rebuilding the valve body?


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## vtraudt (Mar 1, 2010)

*01V gear ratio*

I assume the different versions/applications of the 01V use different gear ratio?
I am thinking about swapping my 2003 A6 (2.7T, BEL engine) into my 2001 Allroad (2.7T, APB engine). 
Do the Tiptronic A6 and Allroad use the same transmission, same gearing? Final drive (I also have the rear diff of the A6 if needed).


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## snowball II (Dec 13, 2004)

vtraudt said:


> I assume the different versions/applications of the 01V use different gear ratio?
> I am thinking about swapping my 2003 A6 (2.7T, BEL engine) into my 2001 Allroad (2.7T, APB engine).
> Do the Tiptronic A6 and Allroad use the same transmission, same gearing? Final drive (I also have the rear diff of the A6 if needed).



I can't remember exactly where I read this, but my understanding is that *all* US 01Vs use the same gear ratios, but that some have different final drives, and most have different TC and valve bodies. If you dig around you should be able to find the 01V parts catalogs that will probably shed light on how key parts of the transmissions differ once you find the trans codes.


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## Droo (Apr 21, 2016)

*Tranny is pulling*

Hello all! I don't want to create a new thread, so I'll ask here.
I have a 2001 passat AVF with 5HP19 and for years I've been chasing one problem- the transmission is "pulling" the car while in D or R and on brake (ie at stop light). I have taken the car to nearby auto trans mechanic and he said it might be normal, got fluid checked and it was fine too, but just recently I bought a 2003 A4 B6 AKE quattro and I know it has the same gearbox (apart from being 4WD) and it doesn't have this problem! I have VCDS and it doesn't pop any codes. I have read that I can do an output test, could anybody describe how to do it properly and what to listen/look for? Thanks in advance.


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## snowball II (Dec 13, 2004)

So, I found a used tranny for the Passat I had questions about before, and I realized after I got everything torn apart that I didn't get the torque converter for the new non-destroyed transmission. For reference, this is what the pan looked like:









I've run a bunch of mineral spirits through the converter, and blown it out. It's pretty clean, but I still get a few microscopic flakes of metal when I blow it out. 

I'd like to put an inline filter between the cooler and the transmission for an extra layer of protection, but I'm not sure which line is the feed and which is the return. Can anyone tell me which line is which? 

Does the tranny fluid flow from the TC directly to the oil cooler, or does it circulate through the transmission first and will probably dump cramp in the various nooks and crannies of the trans (which I'd like to avoid)?

Thanks for any help!


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## Cybersombosis (Sep 20, 2005)

Hi everyone. Is there a place to buy just these 8 sealing sleeves? When I took my tranny apart, the 5 in the upper were quite indented from the mating surface and don't think it will mate up nicely when I put it all back together. Let me know. Thanks. 

Doug



Variety=Spice said:


> you'll need to remove the valve body to access the 4 or 5 sealing tubes behind it. Remove those black sealing tubes and then the pump will pull out the front. I take a hose clamp and secure some nylon webbing to the front pump shaft and pull a bit to break it loose.
> 
> you only need to pull th 5 in the front, not the 3 near the rear unless you're going to pull that rear tower assembley


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## ajshoe (Aug 26, 2008)

believe erikson industries sells them individually


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## Neutral21 (Feb 19, 2018)

*torque converter always open*

Hey guys hope someone can help me.

So it's an A4 b5 (FWD) with a 5hp19 trans, we just installed this used trans because we the original died (made a hole in the pan and burnt the trans). Before installing the trans we couldn't take out the TC we did not bother too much "difficult to take out" and we move on. So today we put fluid (around 7lts to test trans and in seeing it work we would change filter and fluid again) and we did put in every gear (reverse, D, 4,3,2 etc) and the axles didn't move at all. Measuring value block 7 says that TC is always open. any suggestions? Should I change TC? change solenoid as I read that was common also.


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