# Homelink Garage Door Opener Problems & Troubleshooting



## jmdpjd1 (Aug 18, 2004)

I have a problem with my home link system. I can program it to work properlybut every two or three weeks the #3 button will pick up the other opener and both doors will open. The #1 button has not done this. The #1 button has only operated it's appropriate door. The # 3 button then needs reprogrammedand then will work fine for a few weeks. 
The home link also works correctly on my Touareg has never had to be reprogrammed as yet.
Any suggestions?


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Home link problem (jmdpjd1)*

Joe:
Can you clarify that problem a bit for me? What I understand from the above is that sometimes, when you press the number 3 button, it also sends out a signal that you have programmed into one of the other buttons, for example the 1 button or 2 button? Or both? Before I go hit the wiring diagram, I want to make sure I comprehend what the exact problem is.
Michael


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## jmdpjd1 (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: Home link problem (PanEuropean)*

It will some times open both doors. Then I reprogram the homelink buttons. It willl function correctly on each door then about two weeks later button #3 opens both doors. While button one will operate only the correct door.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Home link problem (jmdpjd1)*

Joe:
Here's my guess: I think that the problem relates directly to the switch with the buttons 1, 2 and 3 on it, and has nothing at all to do with the RF transmitter that sends out the Homelink signal.
Further, I'm going to guess that it is possible that the garage door that you have number 3 button set up to open might not be the most co-operative garage door in the world, and as a result, you might have to press button 3 several times before the receiver on that garage door opener gets the signal and opens the door. Perhaps because of this, you are pressing button 3 harder than you normally press the other buttons, or you find that you have to press button 3 repeatedly. Whatever the case, the end result might be that due to possible twisting and bending of the switch assembly in the roof of the Phaeton, the Roof Electronics Control Module (*J528* module) is somehow getting a signal from the triple push-button assembly that button number 1 is also being pushed, and as a result, the Homelink transmitter is sending out two signals, one for button 3, and one for button 1.
In a Phaeton, there are two different physical units involved in the garage door opener. First is the roof electronics control module, which includes the three push-buttons. Second is the Homelink transmitter itself, which is mounted about 4 inches forward of that, on the passenger side of the stalk that supports the interior rear view mirror.
What I suggest you do for troubleshooting purposes, to enable you to define the problem precisely for your service technician, is as follows:
1) On the occasions when both garage doors open, take note of whether you have needed to press button 3 repeatedly, and also take note of whether you might have pressed button 3 more firmly than normal (perhaps as a result of frustration at the garage door not opening).
2) After an event when both doors open following a press of button 3, press button 3 once again, quite gently, and see if only garage door 3 closes in response, or if garage doors 1 and 3 both close in response.
3) Try reprogramming the Homelink unit (instructions here: Homelink question) so that you use button 2 to actuate the garage door that you are presently controlling with button 3, and see if the problem persists. If the problem goes away, then that pretty much nails down physical operation of button 3 as the cause of the problem - whether this is caused by a defective button unit, or excessive force when pushing, you will have to determine. If, after switching the functions assigned to buttons 2 and 3, you find that the problem still persists (door 1 continues to operate whenever button 3 is pressed - after having re-assigned what was formerly on button 2 to button 3), then you have nailed the problem down to a fault in the electronics of the roof switches.
FYI, the 3 push-buttons form an integral part of the roof electronics controller (see Phaeton wiring diagram 5/21), so if they need to be replaced, the entire roof electronics controller will need to be replaced. It is a bit of a PITA to dis-assemble that front roof controller area - see this post for a write-up of how to do it: Removing the Front Overhead Control Panel. You might want to mention to your Phaeton tech that when he removes the left side dome light lens assembly - this being one of the first steps in the process - he will find that the microphone for the OnStar system is embedded in it, and the cable running to that microphone is an extremely thin, fine wire. It is a good idea to have a second person available to support the lens/microphone assembly until it can be unplugged at the connector later on, otherwise, there is a risk of breaking the very tiny wire just from the weight of the plastic lens. 
Also, mention that the white lenses for the two front dome lights are made of a rather brittle styrene plastic, and it is necessary to use considerable caution when prying loose the little tang at the front middle of the lens, to allow the lens to be swung downwards and then disengaged from the two tabs that hold it in at the aft end. I learned this from the school of hard knocks - I broke the tab on one of my lenses when I removed it the first time.
Michael


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## jmdpjd1 (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: Home link problem (PanEuropean)*

Thanks for the info Michael I will give it a try to next time it happens. I will let you know my results.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Home link problem (jmdpjd1)*

Hello Joe:
What was the outcome?
Michael

*Archival Note: * Related Homelink Garage Door Opener Discussions:
Program the Garage Door Opener
....- Another Garage Door Opener Discussion


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## jmdpjd1 (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: Home link problem (PanEuropean)*

Michael,
It has happened twice since the original post. I have found nothing consistant with the problem, except that the #3 button will operate both doors and the #1 button will only operate the one that it was programmed. This goes for up as well as down.
As for the pressure on the buttons I have made a conscious effort to apply light pressure to the button when pressed so I hope that rules out operator error. I did just recently have the batteries replaced and it hasn't happened since so maybe it is solved. (batteries done about 3 weeks ago)


_Modified by jmdpjd1 at 6:16 PM 4-11-2005_


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Home link problem (jmdpjd1)*

Hi Joe:
Thanks for that information. When you referred to replacing batteries, did you mean the two large 12 volt vehicle batteries that are in the trunk of the Phaeton?
Michael


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## jmdpjd1 (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: Home link problem (PanEuropean)*

Yes Michael,
Here is the thread to that post. Both of the large batteries were replaced. 
Two bad batteries


_Modified by PanEuropean at 11:31 PM 4-14-2005_


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## joako (Jun 30, 2002)

Joe:
I have never used the HomeLink in the Phaeton but have in a Lexus RX330 (I am reasonably sure all the homelink modules in different vehicles are very similar, if not identical), it would behave in an odd manner and need to be re-programmed every few weeks. I was about to replace the door opener, but instead found the "Intellicode Universal Conversion Kit" at a local home-improvement store and since installing it I have not encountered any more problems.
--Andrew


_Modified by PanEuropean at 11:45 PM 4-14-2005_


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## jmdpjd1 (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (joako)*

Thanks...
I will give it a look


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## PhaetonChix (Dec 16, 2004)

Another useful site is: http://www.homelink.com/home/faq.tml
Sometimes, the rolling codes are causing the problem


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## joako (Jun 30, 2002)

I don't think rolling codes is a problem, if it were the HomeLink unit would not open the device even a single time, there is an additional procedure that must be followed for rolling codes.
For the original poster: I assume you only have something programmed into #1 and #3 buttons, correct?
Would you mind also sharing which devices in particular you are controlling (IE: X brand electric gate controller of about Y age) and if their radio module is built into the unit, or a separate part.
Michael:
From looking at ETKA I believe there is dedicated control module for the garage door opener, 3B0 909 511 A "control unit for radio controlled garage door opener"
Also, could you please clarify if the Phaeton has a "HomeLink" branded device?
--Andrew


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (joako)*

Hi Andrew:
I seen the garage door transmitter that you refer to, but I didn't take a close enough look at it to see if it had a "Homelink" brand on it. I don't have the car at home right now (wife is out with it), so I can't investigate further.
Below is a picture of the garage door opener transmitter that is installed in the Phaeton. It is quite easy to access, all one has to do is remove the bezel forward of the inside rear view mirror mount, and the transmitter is attached to that bezel.
Here are some links to other discussions of Homelink that might help with this matter. Note that the instructions in the Phaeton owner manual for programming the garage door opener are incorrect, they were lifted almost word for word from a Passat owner manual, and on the Passat, the transmitter is integral with the buttons. On Phaetons, the transmitter is about 8 inches forward of the buttons that operate it.
Program the Garage Door Opener
....- Another Garage Door Opener Discussion
 Mirror, Front Overhead Control Panel Assembly Removal Instructions (how to get at the garage door opener)
Michael
PS: Andrew - you might want to check carefully to see if there is more than one PN for the transmitter. In Canada, radio regulations limit transmission from these things to a two second burst. I don't know whether VW achieves compliance with this via programming (e.g. country code set in address 17 or address 38), or if they comply by using a different transmitter. Just a 'heads' up' for you.
*Photo of Garage Door Opener Transmitter*

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Image uploading. Refresh page to view











_Modified by PanEuropean at 10:30 PM 8-15-2008_


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (joako)*

Here's the close-up picture of the transmitter (shown above) that you asked for.
*Homelink Garage Door Opener Transmitter used in Phaeton*

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Image uploading. Refresh page to view


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## joako (Jun 30, 2002)

Michael:
I assume the same module is used in both US and Canadian cars, notice in your second picture there is a "Canada" number which would imply the part is also certified for use in Canada. I am also fairly certain the HomeLink module I have used in the Lexus RX00 would transmit the signal for a fixed duration of time, regardless of how long the button was pressed (assuming the LED indicates a signal being transmitted).


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (joako)*

Although it is possible that the duration of the signal sent out by the transmitter might be configured through the country code settings in address 17 (the instrument cluster), my guess is that all the North American transmitters send out a 2 second burst - this would comply with the Canadian regulations, and not hinder operation in America.
AFIK, the European transmitters are a different part, I think they work on a different frequency.
Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*

Photos re-hosted.


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## VAPHAETON (Jan 15, 2005)

*Garage Door Opener Lack of range*

I have a 2004 W12. When I bought the car with 34K miles in February i could not program the GDO. I called the garage door company who came out and checked everything including the fact that the hand held unit and my other cars open and close the door perfectly. Their verdict was a bad GDO module in the Phaeton. 
The dealer replaced the GDO module. I programmed the car sitting under the opener and it works fine. If I back out of the garage it does not work. This makes me wonder if the original unit had the same problem since all attempts to program it took place with the car just outside the garage. 
Has anyone run into this problem before?


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Hi Robert:

I think that the variable that you need to eliminate here is whether or not your garage door opener receiver (the components attached to your home) are the problem, rather than the transmitter in the car.

Easiest way I can think of to do this would be to pair the car with another garage door opener (for example, a neighbor) and see if there is any difference in the range of operation.

Michael


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## VAPHAETON (Jan 15, 2005)

Hi Michael

Thank you for the reply.

When I had the garage door opener installation folks over he even tried replacing the receiver in the opener with a new one that he had on the truck but without any luck.

This is a double garage door. In addition to the Phaeton I have a Jeep Grand Cheokee programmed to this door as well as the visor unit that was supplied with the door. Both continue to work normally with a range of 40 to 50 feet.

I know that the IR winshield in the W12 has a small aperature of non coated glass around the overhead console and mirror. I wonder if it is possible to install this module facing the wrong way so that the glass attenuates the signal?

I will get it back to the VW dealer in the next few days and see what they come up with.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

I suppose it is possible to install the transmitter backwards, but I think that is unlikely. You can investigate yourself by removing the lower bezel (cover) that the Homelink transmitter is mounted to - no tools are required to do this. Here is a link to a thread that explains how to take things apart: Removing the Front Overhead Control Panel.

I have appended your post to the existing discussion Homelink Garage Door Opener Problems (not programming, but troubleshooting) that is already listed in the Phaeton Forum 'Table of Contents' (FAQ by Category), this to keep all related information together.

Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

FYI, I also own a 2004 W12, and all of the pictures are of my car - so, your car should be identical.

Check to make sure that there are no cable bundles stuffed in between the front of the Homelink transmitter and the small 'window' on the passenger side of the rear view mirror stalk.

Michael


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## WillemBal (Nov 20, 2010)

Just a couple of thoughts, which may be do the trick:



There is no need to park the car near or in the garage. Better still, park your car a few blocks away: learning your door opener to open the door is something between your remote control and the built-in door opener.
Skip the "Erase all" section. You would only do that when you sell your car and relearning a code automatically erases the stored code.
Make sure that you can open your roof - for the purpose of checking power on the roof module. With the engine running you will eliminate any roof module power issue.
Then, press the button to be programmed and keep it depressed when it starts blinking with about 1 Hz. Then depress the remote control button and keep both depressed until the light starts blinking faster - then keep it depressed for another couple of seconds. Then you're done.
If that doesn't work, then instead of continuously pressing the remote control button, depress it for 2 seconds, then let it go for a split second and press again (a couple of times).

When that still doesn't work, your RF remote control (not IR in any case) may be some very new version, for which the software of the Homelink module is not yet suitable. I found a detailed list of door modules versus compatibility with Homelink *HERE*. It is European, however a lot of different door opener brand names are listed there, so perhaps yours is also listed. Some devices need software version 7 in the control module.

Note: there is a (USA?) toll-free number listed on the top of page 1, which you may want to dial for personal assistance. 

Success!

Willem


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Photos re-hosted.

Michael


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