# Racing Brake Front rotors paired with CarboTech XP 12 pads



## LongviewTx (Dec 26, 1999)

A little feedback for the collective: 

I've been running the RB front rotors for some time now, roughly 14 track days to the best of my determination. I used the Pagid RS 4-2 Blue pad first with these rotors. They never worked well. It seems like the pad material deposited in patches along the rotor face thus producing inconsistent braking with some shudder and pulling, maybe right or maybe left, not predictable. They stopped very well in threshold braking but clearly was never right. (I then changed to Carbo Tech XP-12 pad but the material transfer to the rotor kept the new CT pad from ever working well.) 

Well, the rotor rings needed to be replaced due to micro fracturing (heat) and RB advises 14 solid track days would be considered normal usage (of course in addition to the tracking the car does see some road usage) So, time to replace the rings. 

Used CarboTech XP-12 and replaced the rear OEM pads (original all this time) with the CT XP-8. I bedded the pads/rotors yesterday evening driving back to Longview on the Interstate where there was light traffic. Mainly 97 mph down to 65 MPH in progressive and then threshold brake stops. 

They set up very well, by third brake sequence they bit hard and straight, and clearly able to lock the rubber just before the ABS overrides. 

SO MUCH better than what I have been living with. 

My warning is the Pagid RS 4-2 Blue just doesn't like either the RB rotor material Or maybe, the bedding process is more tempermental. IDK. But, I do love the current set up and can't wait to get them on the track in early September. 

FWIW


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## MSS Automotive (Mar 20, 2013)

Had similar experience with the RS4-2 on stock rotors...they were not very capabale on track.

'OK' on streets and were a little bit too noisy anyway.

I think these will simply need effective cooling for track use.


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## LongviewTx (Dec 26, 1999)

I'm working on my MBU degree or the "Minimal Brake Usage" technique. Can't heat up if you don't slow down


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## [email protected] (Mar 25, 2013)

LongviewTx said:


> A little feedback for the collective:
> 
> I've been running the RB front rotors for some time now, roughly 14 track days to the best of my determination. I used the Pagid RS 4-2 Blue pad first with these rotors. They never worked well. It seems like the pad material deposited in patches along the rotor face thus producing inconsistent braking with some shudder and pulling, maybe right or maybe left, not predictable. They stopped very well in threshold braking but clearly was never right. (I then changed to Carbo Tech XP-12 pad but the material transfer to the rotor kept the new CT pad from ever working well.)
> 
> ...


Having the same issues with thier rotors using thier RBXT960 pads (Hawk DC60 I believe). Really bad deposits and no good fix yet. Maybe I will switch to the Carbotech XP-12's & use the Bobcats on the street.


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## carl44 (Nov 23, 2012)

bedding pagids suck, way too much drama and pad transfer and they glaze . raybestos ST43s or 47s are the best track pads ive used. no pad transfer to bed just do a few easy laps. carl


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## [email protected] (Mar 25, 2013)

carl44 said:


> bedding pagids suck, way too much drama and pad transfer and they glaze . raybestos ST43s or 47s are the best track pads ive used. no pad transfer to bed just do a few easy laps. carl


That sounds good. What do you use for street pads?


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## carl44 (Nov 23, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> That sounds good. What do you use for street pads?


porterfield makes some good sport low dust pads RS4s about $175 for the fronts . Now i still have the factory in for the street till their done then ill switch. carl


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## jibbed (Dec 3, 2011)

G'day LongviewTX,

Just to confirm - these are the ones you got?

http://www.racingbrake.com/Rotor-Ring-Open-Slot-AUDI-TT-RS-FRONT-p/d501-06-381.htm

I'd been looking to get the AP Racing upgrade which that DaveB guy makes in the UK, but our dollar has fallen a bit (from 1.05usd to .87usd) so that was looking quite exxy.

Do you have to use the RB two piece assembly? Or will the factory one work?

I'm going to give the Endless MX72's + the Endless RF650 a go, but I expect my factory rotors won't last long after doing that..

Out of interest - how long did you get on the stock rotors?


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## LongviewTx (Dec 26, 1999)

those are indeed the replacement rings BUT, I already had installed the entire Two-Piece RB front rotors previously. The OEM rotor is one piece.

The OEM rotors lasted about the same amount ~ 14 track days plus street driving. They could have kept going BUT, I was having issues with a grinding sound and I felt that the overall wear had the cooling holes acting as cheese graters. BUT, it may have been the Pagid pads (4-2 RS Blue) I was running too.

SO, too many variables to advise or learn from my experience.

As Carl points out above pad material and the bedding process can make things "Iffy".

That's why I wanted to post my experiences. I have a two track event on Sept 7, 8 running the 3.1 at Cresson. This is a layout with a good bit of elevation change and stressful, with significant braking zones. After that weekend, I should have a complete picture of this combo.

This video gives you an idea of the track flow:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ko8izxvlMxs


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## jibbed (Dec 3, 2011)

Well there you go - I always thought it was a two piece!

I'm just about to pick up the DaveB AP Racing rotor kit (he just came back to me with details and specs) as I know a few people have been really happy with it as a kit.

I'm glad I didn't get the pagids - I was actually thinking about them!

Looks like a great track! How are you mounting your camera? Just a go-pro suction mount?

Cheers,
matt


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## JohnLZ7W (Nov 23, 2003)

jibbed said:


> Well there you go - I always thought it was a two piece!
> matt


The OEM front rotor IS 2-piece, just not the style most people are used to seeing. Put a magnet on the hat vs the friction ring, the hat is aluminum.


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## LongviewTx (Dec 26, 1999)

jibbed said:


> Looks like a great track! How are you mounting your camera? Just a go-pro suction mount?
> 
> Cheers,
> matt


Yes. That video was with it mounted outside of the windshield. I like the perspective better than mounted on the inside BUT, don't have an issue and hit your wiper stalk.


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## LongviewTx (Dec 26, 1999)

JohnLZ7W said:


> The OEM front rotor IS 2-piece, just not the style most people are used to seeing. Put a magnet on the hat vs the friction ring, the hat is aluminum.


Well, suffice it to say, you are not going to replace the OEM rotor with a new ring, but with a complete hat/ring combo. I would say, in a practical sense, it is one piece.


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## [email protected] (Mar 25, 2013)

LongviewTx said:


> A little feedback for the collective:
> 
> I've been running the RB front rotors for some time now, roughly 14 track days to the best of my determination. I used the Pagid RS 4-2 Blue pad first with these rotors. They never worked well. It seems like the pad material deposited in patches along the rotor face thus producing inconsistent braking with some shudder and pulling, maybe right or maybe left, not predictable. They stopped very well in threshold braking but clearly was never right. (I then changed to Carbo Tech XP-12 pad but the material transfer to the rotor kept the new CT pad from ever working well.)
> 
> ...


LongviewTX,

Just curious how things are going on track with your RB & Carbotech combo...


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## LongviewTx (Dec 26, 1999)

Ran two weeks ago at Cresson with the 3.1 configuration. A two day event.

Post weekend all is good but for some obvious heat damage to the pads (white coating across the pad thickness). And some grinding sounds (mild) indicative of pad fracturing. I have not pulled them and looked. The bite is still very strong and uniform (no side to side unpredicatablity).

Other than the heat issue which I just don't think we will be able to overcome with no cooling duct possibilities, I'm happy. The performance is there.

I go again on Oct 12,13 at same track/config. This will tell more about overall pad durability/longevity.


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## adamTTRS (Jan 28, 2013)

*rotors*

Do you have a part # for the RB rotors?


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## LongviewTx (Dec 26, 1999)

adamTTRS said:


> Do you have a part # for the RB rotors?


Link:
http://www.racingbrake.com/Audi-TT-RS-FRONT-2012-p/2211-381.htm

But, I bought mine off of Amazon for $1K. been awhile though.


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## Marty (Jul 14, 2000)

LongviewTx said:


> Link:
> http://www.racingbrake.com/Audi-TT-RS-FRONT-2012-p/2211-381.htm
> 
> But, I bought mine off of Amazon for $1K. been awhile though.


Why not stick with stock rotors at half the price? Just curious what is better about these.


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## LongviewTx (Dec 26, 1999)

Yep, probably should stick with OEM for replacement.

Prices for all RB products have gone up a fair bit in the past year+.

The two piece design had me believing that I would only have to replace the rings in the future since it is a true two-piece rotor. Replacement price of rotor ring in future would be comparable to the Audi OEM rotor. But, prices for these have walked up a bit too.

The weight savings and "advertised" improved cooling features of their rotor design where my reasons to "upgrade". Track use does expose the lack of cooling/needs for this car's weight/design.

SO, at this point in time, I have no decisive advice for one option over the other to someone heavily tracking their TT-RS.

I am satisfied with what I have now though.


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## [email protected] (Mar 25, 2013)

LongviewTx said:


> Ran two weeks ago at Cresson with the 3.1 configuration. A two day event.
> 
> Post weekend all is good but for some obvious heat damage to the pads (white coating across the pad thickness). And some grinding sounds (mild) indicative of pad fracturing. I have not pulled them and looked. The bite is still very strong and uniform (no side to side unpredicatablity).
> 
> ...


Good to hear. How difficult was it to replace the rings? Did they send you new hardware?


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## LongviewTx (Dec 26, 1999)

[email protected] said:


> Good to hear. How difficult was it to replace the rings? Did they send you new hardware?


All hardware is included. Gentle torque required. It will be no problem for you.

FYI: They (RB - Performance Brakes) also now offer a Brembo brake caliper rebuild kit for when the piston seals reach their life (due to heat in "Track" service).


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## [email protected] (Mar 25, 2013)

LongviewTx said:


> All hardware is included. Gentle torque required. It will be no problem for you.
> 
> FYI: They (RB - Performance Brakes) also now offer a Brembo brake caliper rebuild kit for when the piston seals reach their life (due to heat in "Track" service).


Thanks for the good info. I think you posted the rebuild kit a while back, so that was on my 
list of stuff to do when needed. I see that the cooling is still an issue with you, did pulling teh dust shields provide a benefit at all?


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## LongviewTx (Dec 26, 1999)

I did not pull dust shields, they are still in-place.


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## Fined (Sep 3, 2013)

resurrecting this one from the dead.. any further updates with the RB front rotors? Looking at doing this to get some unsprung weight down. Combined with a lighter wheel and tire, looking to shave 12-14lb per corner up front.


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## LongviewTx (Dec 26, 1999)

I have not driven track in one year.

I did get a new right hip one week ago. I plan to be back on track next year after healing.

nothing has changed brake wise. super bite and stopping on street jounts. I wish a cooling solution existed.

I saw a post on facebook tt-rs page where R8 carbon-ceramic brakes where retrofitted on his. I have no idea if the cost or performance would in anyway be something to consider, BUT wouldn't it be sweet if money or sanity were not an issue


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## LongviewTx (Dec 26, 1999)

concerning weight, these really did the trick. just kind of expensive.


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## Fined (Sep 3, 2013)

Well best wishes healing up. Good looking wheel and not too crazy in cost compared to some other options. At 18lbs a corner that would be an improvement over what I was planning (20lb per)


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## [email protected] (Mar 25, 2013)

Fined said:


> resurrecting this one from the dead.. any further updates with the RB front rotors? Looking at doing this to get some unsprung weight down. Combined with a lighter wheel and tire, looking to shave 12-14lb per corner up front.


I have had good luck this year running RB rotors with cut shields removed and ST47 pads up front and running Torque 700 brake fluid. RB's most aggressive track pad in the rears. No fade, but I did have a bit of fluid leak out of the caliper once. I am working on a cooling solution also, as I think that would help also.


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## CarbonRS (Jul 15, 2013)

I've been running PFC08 in the front and XR3 in the back with stock rotors and RBF 660. It saw some back to back track sessions last year, a season of autocross, and daily driving. They held up well with enough life to carry on into next season and were not too noisy for the street. Both pads don't require a bed in procedure (1 lap and they are good to go) and would probably work well on any of the other rotor option and metallurgy. The only concerns I have are with brake cooling.

I haven't heard enough good things to switch from the stock rotors, but hopefully your results are good.


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## hightechrdn (Dec 9, 2011)

Has anyone tried the CMS brake cooling kit for the TT-RS? It is basically a much improved version of the factory 'scoop' system (vs a true ducted setup from the front bumper).

Looks straight forward and isn't priced too high. Would be good to hear some real world feedback on performance of their kit and on the installation process. 

Thanks 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk


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## LongviewTx (Dec 26, 1999)

http://www.cantrellmotorsport.com/i...ge=flypage.tpl&product_id=364&category_id=396

Good question. I had forgotten about this. Pending responses, I think I'll give it a whirl.


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## as350 (Nov 8, 2011)

There are several TTRS owners that either have installed the Cantrell scoops or have built their own version mimicking Cantrell's system. So far I'm not aware of any negative feedback, the scoops seem to work. Running a Cantrell-like brake cooling system along with removing the brake dust shields should help with keeping brake temps from reaching critical point of failure.


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