# Forge 007 - Which Spring set up do you have?



## XXX 1.8T (Aug 10, 2002)

Just bought a Forge 007 what spring do people run?
Im currently running APR max boost i hit is 25psi sometimes 28psi
BTW which way should it be facing?


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## liloldbie (Jun 23, 2007)

*Re: Forge 007 - Which Spring set up do you have? ( XXX 1.8T)*

I run the yellow with Unitronic Stage 1+. You think I should run the blue?
What are you running?


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## XXX 1.8T (Aug 10, 2002)

*Re: Forge 007 - Which Spring set up do you have? (liloldbie)*

bump!


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## winTTer (Jul 29, 2004)

*Re: Forge 007 - Which Spring set up do you have? ( XXX 1.8T)*

http://forgemotorsport.com/con...DVTUN
That link has the boost info for each spring.


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## BigBlackTiTTy (Sep 25, 2009)

im running yellow in my revo stage 2. 
but by the sounds of it , you should be running blue .


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## XXX 1.8T (Aug 10, 2002)

*Re: (BigBlackTiTTy)*

i think i should run the yellow as 90% of the time it hits 25psi only very rarely it overboosts and hits 28psi.
Cant wait to get rid of the APR the honking is driving me crazy!


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## winTTer (Jul 29, 2004)

*Re: ( XXX 1.8T)*

your dv is honking? r u running stock?


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: Forge 007 - Which Spring set up do you have? ( XXX 1.8T)*

You should really not run at 28psi max boost on the stock Turbo. 
There is no more power to be had past about 24-25psi Peak Boost
out of the K04 Turbo. Anything more and you are just making a lot of unwanted HEAT and risk hitting Limp Mode. If you spike at around 24-25 and have a steady boost of about 20psi that is pretty much where you want to be. As far as the spring goes I would run the softest spring where you are still holding boost. I experimented with the Forge 007 and ended up with the Green Spring with 2 shims as the best overall set up. The Yellow was okay but the car ran better with the green and 2 shims. Forget about the blue spring that is way too stiff for the TT regardless of mods. You can experiment but I bet your car will run better with the green spring with 2 shims. 
I eventually got the Forge Splitter which is adjustable and a lot easier to tune in without taking it apart. 
Good Luck to you.








BTW, I have the REVO StageII Tune, Downpipe, Blue Flame Exhaust,
Boost machine, Larger MAF, 4bar FPR and Flowstack intake.
If you have an APR R1 DV and it is Honking than your diaphram is ripped. Send it back they will fix or replace it with a new one. 
Also if you have a bad DV your boost readings may be off.



_Modified by IndyTTom at 9:29 AM 2/9/2010_


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## XXX 1.8T (Aug 10, 2002)

*Re: Forge 007 - Which Spring set up do you have? (IndyTTom)*


_Quote, originally posted by *IndyTTom* »_You should really not run at 28psi max boost on the stock Turbo. 
There is no more power to be had past about 24-25psi Peak Boost
out of the K04 Turbo. Anything more and you are just making a lot of unwanted HEAT and risk hitting Limp Mode. If you spike at around 24-25 and have a steady boost of about 20psi that is pretty much where you want to be. As far as the spring goes I would run the softest spring where you are still holding boost. I experimented with the Forge 007 and ended up with the Green Spring with 2 shims as the best overall set up. The Yellow was okay but the car ran better with the green and 2 shims. Forget about the blue spring that is way too stiff for the TT regardless of mods. You can experiment but I bet your car will run better with the green spring with 2 shims. 
I eventually got the Forge Splitter which is adjustable and a lot easier to tune in without taking it apart. 
Good Luck to you.








BTW, I have the REVO StageII Tune, Downpipe, Blue Flame Exhaust,
Boost machine, Larger MAF, 4bar FPR and Flowstack intake.
If you have an APR R1 DV and it is Honking than your diaphram is ripped. Send it back they will fix or replace it with a new one. 
Also if you have a bad DV your boost readings may be off.
_Modified by IndyTTom at 9:29 AM 2/9/2010_

What you have said is what my car does hits 25psi and goes down to 20psi. Very rarely i have seen it it while in third go past 25psi for some reason.
My car is the same as yours in terms of mods except with APR programming.
As for APR i had had it changed twice and they are blaming the honk on the TTDA intake saying the R1 makes funny noises with intakes like the TTDA.
Ill try the yellow and see how i go from there.
How do you install the shims? I may keep the green and try the shims like you.


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## BigBlackTiTTy (Sep 25, 2009)

try what ttom said, with the green with 2 shims and then try the yellow alone .. you will only if you try out both.. 
btw, thats apr for ya. i used to have apr software and it was the worst experience ever, i will never buy anything apr again. '''''and im not the only one. lots of people i know ditched the apr stuff. and this is ongoing going back to 2002.


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## XXX 1.8T (Aug 10, 2002)

*Re: (BigBlackTiTTy)*

how do you install the shims?
What issues did you have with the apr software?
I have had great experiences with APR/Oettinger the R1 is the only bad thing about APR


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## BigBlackTiTTy (Sep 25, 2009)

shims look like coins, and you just place them in with the spring, it just adds a bit more tension ..so its between the range.
apr chip melted my ecu, car just lost complete power while i was driving. very dangerous. + they wouldnt buy me a new ecu, 
and basically were like hmm .... that sucks.
will never touch anything they sell. ever again.. 
what does oettinger have to do with apr ?


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: ( XXX 1.8T)*


_Quote, originally posted by * XXX 1.8T* »_how do you install the shims?
What issues did you have with the apr software?
I have had great experiences with APR/Oettinger the R1 is the only bad thing about APR

You put the shims on either on top or the bottom of the spring. I forgot which. It is important not to block the vacuum compressing the spring. I have done that before and you will know right away since the car will run like crap. I believe the APR R1 is diaphram based and no matter how well it is made eventually it will wear out and leak. Of course they say it is guaranteed for life so you can always return it for repair or replacement. I used to have a Forge Race Valve which was also diaphram based. When it did work it worked GREAT but those damn diaphrams ripped about once a month. They later replaced the rubber diaphram with a silicone one which lasted a tad longer but still wore out. They finally gave up and discontinued the damn thing.
The Forge 007 Valve is a proven valve without any issues. Make sure you clean it once in a while and give the green with 2 shims a try.
I think you will like the results without the honking. 
Eventually, I went with the Forge Splitter Valve which is adjustable without taking it apart. It took me a while to get it tuned in because it comes way to stiff from the factory. If you ever get one turn it all the way counterclockwise and then give it 8 clicks clockwise. I have mine set at 7 clicks but I think anything between 6 and 8 will work well with the TT. 
Good Luck with the Forge 007. It is a great DV and will serve you well.


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## XXX 1.8T (Aug 10, 2002)

*Re: (IndyTTom)*

I went with the yellow and woow what an improvement. Car now feels like its always on boost. Very happy thanks guys!


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