# powering the compressors



## defrost (May 26, 2006)

i bought the power kit for dual compressors off of bagriders. running dual 380's. i have been told varying things on whether this will or will not work to power both compressors. i have been told i actually need two distribution blocks? can someone confirm this and tell me the sequence to power both compressors using this kit. thank you in advance. 

Dual Compressor Kit Includes: 

- 18 Feet of 4 Gauge Metallic Blue KLMX Power Wire 
- 3 Feet of 4 Gauge Silver Pearl KLMX Ground Wire 
- Distribution Block with 2 30A AGU Fuses 
- 2 Gold Plated 4 Gauge Ring Terminals, 2 Gold Plated 4 Gauge Spade Terminals 
- Wire ties 

picture of kit from bagriders website.


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## rabriolet (May 27, 2005)

You only need 1 distribution block if it has 2 outputs.


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## defrost (May 26, 2006)

can someone give me the sequence back to these then from the battery? and where would the ground go then? sorry, i'm an idiot with the electrical stuff.


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## rabriolet (May 27, 2005)

LArge wire from battery to the large opening in the distribution, power wire out of each smaller opening to each relay (i think you have 2 with dual compressors correct?) power wire from compressor goes to relay.......you also want a switched power (only gives power when the key is turned to on or the car is running) and I ran an inline 30amp switch so that I can turn my compressor on and off if I want/need to. 

You ground all of your grounds to a common point, or buy a ground distribution block.. 

make sense?


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## defrost (May 26, 2006)

yeah thanks. 

that's what i was being told, that i needed another block for the ground. so that is not necessary?


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## NDubber (Sep 11, 2006)

idk if this helps, but this is how i would do it

http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/1585/airdiag.png


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## defrost (May 26, 2006)

thanks for the help. so where would it be recommended to ground everything to if i don't have another distribution block for ground?


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## rabriolet (May 27, 2005)

Find a bolt or something in the trunk. In my mk3 under the rear seat for some reason there is a threaded stud with a nut on it that goes to nothing. I just took the nut off, crimped one of the round ring terminal ends on the ground wires and put it there. I have a ground distribution block but if you just connected all your grounds together and did one round ring you would be ok, or just do 2 per terminal end, its up to you


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## NDubber (Sep 11, 2006)

thats where i did my grounds too :thumbup:


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## Mr. Appleton (May 16, 2009)

I really am no sure about that wiring diagram. 

I was always under the impression you want the fuse within the first 12inches of the power wire run, that way if there is a short, the fuse will blow as its supposed to. Throwing the fuse that far away could cause the wire to get real hot and possibly start an electrical fire before blowing the fuse.


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## defrost (May 26, 2006)

Mr. Appleton said:


> I really am no sure about that wiring diagram.
> 
> I was always under the impression you want the fuse within the first 12inches of the power wire run, that way if there is a short, the fuse will blow as its supposed to. Throwing the fuse that far away could cause the wire to get real hot and possibly start an electrical fire before blowing the fuse.


 so are you saying the distribution block should not be located in the trunk? and instead located closer to the battery?


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## NDubber (Sep 11, 2006)

that was just a simple mock up so you could get an idea, go to a best buy or car audio store and get an inline fuse to put near the battery as well.


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## Mr. Appleton (May 16, 2009)

defrost said:


> so are you saying the distribution block should not be located in the trunk? and instead located closer to the battery?


 Well if that is your only fuse in the system, I would recommend getting a traditional inline fuse like this *one*. And then a distribution block like this *one*, that way you don't have two fuses inline. 

I've done countless installs and that's how I go about taking care of the power distribution.


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## Mr. Appleton (May 16, 2009)

NDubber said:


> that was just a simple mock up so you could get an idea, go to a best buy or car audio store and get an inline fuse to put near the battery as well.


 That is also not a good idea because then hes got two fuses inline. One fuse is ample, but make sure it is within 12 inches of the battery. So no longer than 12 inches of power wire from the battery to one terminal of the fuse.


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## rabriolet (May 27, 2005)

Look. 










Out of curiousity, why would you NOT want a fuse at the battery and a fused distribution block? If you get a fused distribution block and run 1 power off each connection atleast it only blows the fuse on its own circuit instead of the main fuse at the battery, which would shut all power down versus only losing power to the one circuit that is messed up


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## NDubber (Sep 11, 2006)

but also, these compressors arent constantly on, so the fuses in the trunk will do just fine. my single comp is on for about 30 seconds, maybe 4 times a day, so i think he will be fine with what he has, if it were a problem im sure the kit would be sold with a fuse right off the battery


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## Mr. Appleton (May 16, 2009)

NDubber said:


> but also, these compressors arent constantly on, so the fuses in the trunk will do just fine. my single comp is on for about 30 seconds, maybe 4 times a day, so i think he will be fine with what he has, if it were a problem im sure the kit would be sold with a fuse right off the battery


 It may be fine, but I've done air installs along with car audio installs and the fuse has always been within 12 inches of the battery. You never know what can go wrong, so better safe than sorry is the way I look at it. If he wants to he can run it without a fuse for all I care, I'm just saying that it would probably be a better idea to get a fuse closer to the battery.


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## Mr. Appleton (May 16, 2009)

rabriolet said:


> Out of curiousity, why would you NOT want a fuse at the battery and a fused distribution block? If you get a fused distribution block and run 1 power off each connection atleast it only blows the fuse on its own circuit instead of the main fuse at the battery, which would shut all power down versus only losing power to the one circuit that is messed up


 
Nothing wrong with it, but its completely not necessary IMHO. You can run 5 fuses in series, but its definitely not need.


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## defrost (May 26, 2006)

i am now more confused then when i made the thread.


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## defrost (May 26, 2006)

so the distribution block pictured, which is the one i have, should suffice as long as i keep it within a foot of the battery?


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## NDubber (Sep 11, 2006)

just run it in the rear, you will be fine, that wire will never over heat due to it wont be constantly drawing power.


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## defrost (May 26, 2006)

NDubber said:


> just run it in the rear, you will be fine, that wire will never over heat due to it wont be constantly drawing power.


 so no need for another fuse near the battery? and then just find a place to ground all the wires?


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## rabriolet (May 27, 2005)

Do it the way I made the picture. 

Get an inline 40amp fuse 

Place it about 6" of wire from the battery, run the rest of your wire to a FUSED distribution block (trust me I would rather still have 1 compressor able to run instead of both being dead because 1 is killing the main fuse) then run 1 wire to 1 relay and 1 wire to the other relay. 


NDubber, are you saying you wired your power wire from your compressors to your pressure switch? They should be connected to your relay.. 


Dont worry about the wire color it says, use whatever you want or have..


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## defrost (May 26, 2006)

thanks. the distribution block i have is fused. they just aren't in, in the picture. any local places i can buy the 40amp inline fuse?


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## rabriolet (May 27, 2005)

Best buy 
Circuit city 
Pep boys 
Walmart


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## defrost (May 26, 2006)

awesome. thanks for your help. this was really the only part of the installation that was confusing me.


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## NDubber (Sep 11, 2006)

the way *I* did it is, (single compressor) power ran straight to distribution block, no relay, ground ran to pressure switch, then from pressure switch to chassis ground


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## defrost (May 26, 2006)

rabriolet, 

you also mentioned wiring something to switched power above? what am i wiring to that?


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## rabriolet (May 27, 2005)

NDubber said:


> the way *I* did it is, (single compressor) power ran straight to distribution block, no relay, ground ran to pressure switch, then from pressure switch to chassis ground


 that confused the **** out of me........ 

so are you saying your power wire for the compressor is on the distribution block, then your ground for your pressure switch and compressor are connected and grounded? Where is your power wire to your pressure switch, or am i missing something? 





defrost said:


> rabriolet,
> 
> you also mentioned wiring something to switched power above? what am i wiring to that?


 If you are using a relay (mine had it in the kit so I used it) you run a wire from an ignition on source to a 30amp switch (rocker/toggle whatever you want) then back to the relay. The last picture I posted shows you how to run it and what wire goes where. If you look on the relay it has numbers by each terminal sticking out of it.


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## defrost (May 26, 2006)

rabriolet said:


> If you are using a relay (mine had it in the kit so I used it) you run a wire from an ignition on source to a 30amp switch (rocker/toggle whatever you want) then back to the relay. The last picture I posted shows you how to run it and what wire goes where. If you look on the relay it has numbers by each terminal sticking out of it.


 yeah i am using a relay. but what does the rocker switch do?


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## NDubber (Sep 11, 2006)

rab, does this help


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## NDubber (Sep 11, 2006)

defrost said:


> yeah i am using a relay. but what does the rocker switch do?


 the rocker is just a switch for you to use to shut it off when you want to


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## defrost (May 26, 2006)

NDubber said:


> the rocker is just a switch for you to use to shut it off when you want to


 so the rocker switch is not necessary, and i can go straight from the relay to the ignition on source?


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## NDubber (Sep 11, 2006)

defrost said:


> so the rocker switch is not necessary, and i can go straight from the relay to the ignition on source?


 you are correct, its just a personal preference. :thumbup:


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## defrost (May 26, 2006)

thank you.


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## NDubber (Sep 11, 2006)

are you in washington state? maybe i could help if youre near by


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## defrost (May 26, 2006)

Pennsylvania


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## [email protected] (Aug 22, 2006)

If you have any questions, just shoot me a text. :thumbup: 

Like Appleton said, you want to have your fuse close to the battery - preferably 12-18". If you have any other questions, I'm always happy to help.


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## djwhiplash2001 (Apr 21, 2008)

Yes, ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS fuse ANY wire running into your car! If it catches something, if you get into an accident, whatever, and that wire shorts to ground, it WILL catch fire and possibly cause your battery to catch fire or explode as well. You DO NOT want that. ALWAYS fuse it right off the battery. I've seen cars firsthand that haven't done this and the consequences were never the same :laugh:


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## rabriolet (May 27, 2005)

Where in PA? Im in frederick MD. 


NDubber, I tried to run my pressure switch like that and it wouldn't work. 

I think because I wired my power wire to the relay and the relay to the compressor. I grounded the switch then ran the other terminal to the ground on the compressor, connected the power wire to the terminal it was supposed to be on for the relay and it wouldn't turn on. Im guessing the relay was why. 


I like my rocker switch because the compressor turns on sometimes and I don't want it running so I just flip the switch. It's also nice because if your pressure switch takes a crap you can manually turn your compressor on and off.


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## NDubber (Sep 11, 2006)

yeah it was probably the relay


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## defrost (May 26, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> If you have any questions, just shoot me a text. :thumbup:
> 
> Like Appleton said, you want to have your fuse close to the battery - preferably 12-18". If you have any other questions, I'm always happy to help.


 So, is adding an inline fuse off the battery ok like people were saying, plus running the fused distribution block? 



rabriolet said:


> Where in PA? Im in frederick MD.


 Lancaster


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## mihneagabriel (Aug 7, 2009)

Merry Christmas 

http://www.airridetalk.com/wiring-info.html 

there are two ways you can do it on there.. run two wire with separate fuses from the battery (complicated way) or run one wire with a fuse to a distribution block then to the two compressors.


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## rabriolet (May 27, 2005)

id offer to come help but 2hrs 1 way is a lil far for me haha. 

just follow the diagram and you will be good :thumbup:


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## Mr. Appleton (May 16, 2009)

defrost said:


> So, is adding an inline fuse off the battery ok like people were saying, plus running the fused distribution block?


 Yes, running fuses in Series is fine.


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## defrost (May 26, 2006)

rabriolet said:


> id offer to come help but 2hrs 1 way is a lil far for me haha.
> 
> just follow the diagram and you will be good :thumbup:


 Haha yeah it's fine. Thanks for all the help though. I'm sure I'll figure it out.


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## defrost (May 26, 2006)

So 85 and 86 on each relay all get wired together and then run to the pressure switch and then to an ignition wire? I think that's what's the one diagram is showing.


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## mihneagabriel (Aug 7, 2009)

You have viairs?
On a side note, is 50 a good price for this kit?


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## mihneagabriel (Aug 7, 2009)

Sorry I suck at reading. 

Here's the recommended way to do it from viairs site.


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## defrost (May 26, 2006)

mihneagabriel said:


> You have viairs?
> On a side note, is 50 a good price for this kit?


 Yes dual 380s. I looked at the top middle diagram in the link you posted. But am gonna use a distribution block instead of 2 seperately power wires off the battery. Would that be correct then? Coudnt figure out how I was gonna wire one pressure switch to two relays.


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## defrost (May 26, 2006)

mihneagabriel said:


> Sorry I suck at reading.
> 
> Here's the recommended way to do it from viairs site.


 Link? Sorry using tapatalk on my phone at work.


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## mihneagabriel (Aug 7, 2009)

http://www.viaircorp.com/OnRoad/Schematics/dualc_wd.pdf

Sorry the link didn't post before...
That diagram should make sense

Haha yeah I'm using tapatalk too


Edit* Treat the split after the fuse marked in the diagram as your distribution block


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## defrost (May 26, 2006)

Never mind I'm an idiot. I didn't realize the curly line in the diagram meant they're connected internally haha. Ok yeah that makes it seem pretty simple.


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## CapeGLS (Aug 3, 2002)

Its very simple for you to modify these simple diagrams to your setup.


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## defrost (May 26, 2006)

Thanks. After all that though i realized that since I'm running easy street, half of that **** will change though. Thanks for the help though.


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