# ABA tapping block for oil return



## chilledOUTmk1 (Feb 5, 2006)

Anyone tap their ABA blocks for their oil return? Where is the money spot?


----------



## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

ive done it.

I drilled a spot in the bock at the base of the block in one of the "bubbles" for the rods, maybe 1 inch above the oil pan. I ran a tap through it and it did not tap very well as the hole was not perfectly round from the drill wobbling on me and the fact the block is not perfectly flat. 

I also drilled the hole at a slight angle because I know the block doesnt sit straight up in the engine bay. It is angled towards the fire wall like 15 degrees. So i drilled it at slightly more so the oil would flow better.

I gobbed JB weld all over the threads of the -10 male AN to pipe fitting and threadded in the pipe threads in the hole and let the JB set.

worked very well. I always had oil leaking issues and blowing seals in the turbo by draining to the pan. this solved all of the issues.


----------



## dr. b (Jul 14, 2005)

*FV-QR*

tap the pan, not the block.


----------



## chilledOUTmk1 (Feb 5, 2006)

Heres where I did it. It was easy, center punch, drill, tap.


----------



## masterqaz (Oct 5, 2007)

Tap the block when able to, its much better.


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

speed51133! said:


> ive done it.
> 
> I drilled a spot in the bock at the base of the block in one of the "bubbles" for the rods, maybe 1 inch above the oil pan. I ran a tap through it and it did not tap very well as the hole was not perfectly round from the drill wobbling on me and the fact the block is not perfectly flat.
> 
> ...


 
This .... its where I have mine on my last two blocks.


----------



## chilledOUTmk1 (Feb 5, 2006)

Im a little worried about axle clearance. :facepalm: Should have drilled the hole on the bubble for cylinder number 2. Ill bolt the block to the transmission tonight, fingers crossed. Might have to get a 90 degree fitting instead of the 45.


----------



## Enter the chicken (Dec 11, 2011)

*Tapping ABA block for oil return*

I was thinking of using one of the tapped holes down at the bottom of the block where the webbing is. Do you think that will interfere with the axle?


----------



## [email protected] (Jan 2, 2009)

As soon as you go above the oil level you have to start thinking about windage...


----------



## Enter the chicken (Dec 11, 2011)

I have the old 2 piece Oettinger oil pan/sump where the upper piece has a built in windage tray. Was thinking I could tap the upper just below the windage tray but these are rare. However I think it would work.


----------



## way2manydubs (Mar 10, 2006)

Callaway tapped the blocks, as did New dimensions after them. Worked without any issue on both my turbo setups. Its nice with a slammed mk1, because if you destroy your oil pan, all you need is a stock replacement pan.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4867757-Callaway-Turbo-installation-thread


----------



## masterqaz (Oct 5, 2007)

way2manydubs said:


> Callaway tapped the blocks, as did New dimensions after them. Worked without any issue on both my turbo setups. Its nice with a slammed mk1, because if you destroy your oil pan, all you need is a stock replacement pan.
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4867757-Callaway-Turbo-installation-thread


Exactly, if you like to be low this is the only way to go. Look at that I'm a rapper now. Cash money .


----------



## chilledOUTmk1 (Feb 5, 2006)

I do like to be low and that was my reasoning to tap the block. However Im sure Pete knows what hes talking about.



[email protected] said:


> As soon as you go above the oil level you have to start thinking about windage...


Im assuming there is enough windage/crankcase pressure to keep the oil from draining out of the line? Any tips/info/advice Pete?


----------



## way2manydubs (Mar 10, 2006)

Windage occurs when the oil is "caught" on the spinning crankshaft... which whips up the oil into foam and can cause a theoretical loss of power. Never had an issue with whipping the oil or losing pressure.
Wwhere you tapped the block shouldn't cause a windage issue since your drain isn't "in line" with the #2 connecting rod.
Isn't the point of an oil drain to have the oil leave the line?


----------



## [email protected] (Jan 2, 2009)

Put the drain in the wrong spot and windage can prevent it from draining well at high rpm. Putting it in the pan under the oil level protects it from windage effects entirely and is one reason OE's do that. On the new TSI engines where the turbo drains directly into the block- it drains into a passenge which is separate from the crankcase in general all the way down into the pan. It does also prevent oil from ending up being thrown ONTO the spinning crank- which will cost power. 

None of those effects would ever show up in any kind of foaming or obvious loss of oil pressure- it's more an issue of OE's optimizing things because they can. 

There is nothing wrong with draining below the oil level- millions of vehicles have been built this way. Plus, a big old NPT thread introduces some serious stress risers into an iron block- they don't exactly have a generous root radius. Also not an issue unless you are really stressing the hell out of the block.


----------



## way2manydubs (Mar 10, 2006)

So, windage is more a problem for çammed 16v/aba or 1.8t engines capable of spinning higher Rpm, and stressing the block becomes an issue at rather high hp numbers as well, right? Which is why i said draining into the block in a street tune aba turbo shouldn't cause a problem. I hear the theory, and understand where it needs to be applied more often to big builds, but all I was saying was in this application he should be perfectly fine. That's all.


----------



## chilledOUTmk1 (Feb 5, 2006)

Im hoping for 400hp+ and 8k RPM Getting another block isnt a big deal, I might just do that... thanks for the info Pete!


----------

