# vrrt vr6 turbo, what is your vacuum with EVAP deleted?



## Corsten (Sep 26, 2005)

While I'm trying to sort other issues out with my vrt I thought I'll ask this question. I know people are having around 20 with EVAP intact. What about with EVAP deletion and stock manifold? I have around 14. (a little over 0.4bar). I read somewhere that the less restrictive vacuum, the lower number you get. Is 12 low?


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## MRosier (Sep 17, 2006)

no evap or secondary air here and mine reads 20 at idle


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## vergessen wir es (May 12, 2010)

14 cold. 16 warm. 21 on motor braking.
Was told by Schimmel anything 16 or above on a vr is fine.


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## 92g60gti (Jul 6, 2004)

deleting the evap system will have absolutely zero impact on intake manifold vacuum


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## GinsterMan98 (May 19, 2008)

Is see 16 cold, 19 hot and 25 engine braking. 9:1 CR and 256 cams. EVAP intact, check all your check valves to make sure they don't leak.:thumbup:


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## 92g60gti (Jul 6, 2004)

If the car seems to be running and idling perfectly fine i would try another gauge. becuase with stock cams it should definitely be around 18-20 at warm idle. If it had a large enough vacuum leak to cause vacuum to be down around 12-14 then it would be running like crap. If the gauge is spot on then chances are there is a mechanical fault, whether it be low compression or something else.


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## Corsten (Sep 26, 2005)

GinsterMan98 said:


> Is see 16 cold, 19 hot and 25 engine braking. 9:1 CR and 256 cams. EVAP intact, check all your check valves to make sure they don't leak.:thumbup:


with evap removed I don't have any??, do I?

WTF? I'm getting 14 regardless the engine being hot or cold? I do get around 20 when engine braking, mind you I'm not driving the car everyday so I might be forgetting something....not too many vac lines to check, since evap is deleted... I might use different manifold source for the gauge itself to see if it changes anything. Right now it's shared with DV. FPR to manifold not shared with anything. Idles just great, no problem with that...., oh just forgot to mention, I'm using a head spacer, not sure if it makes any difference?
Is there any easy way to check for vac leaks?


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## 'dubber (Jun 15, 2004)

Deleting the evap system won't affect vac readings at all provided you capped off the line going to the intake mani. Did you leave the line going back to the fuel tank open so the tank can vent?

The head spacer won't change much in terms of vac readings, it won't put it down to 14. Maybe a half inch difference from before the spacer.

I like to pressure test for vac leaks, I'll hook up a compressor to the compressor intake with a home depot rubber pipe cap, clamp, and hose barb and go to 25 psi at least. Then I turn off the compressor and listen and go around with soapy water and check as much as I can. YOu'll hear some air going through the inside of the engine as there will be air passing through some of the valves.

You can always spray suspect areas with starter fluid with the engine running and listen for the idle to rise, but I don't like to do that.

you might try another gauge, maybe that one is broken.


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## optiks (Mar 15, 2003)

18 inches with all emissions equipement removed


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## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

19ish, 10.5 compression, no emissions stuff


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## Corsten (Sep 26, 2005)

weird, I removed vacuum hose from FPR - no change on the gauge, WTF? I also read somewhere about someone having a disconnected hose from the nipple by throttle body - same thing, no change on the gauge....I don't really get it.
Also, I have a catch can, wouldn't that decrease vacuum? - well maybe not, it's not on the manifold, but crankcase...


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## Corsten (Sep 26, 2005)

'dubber said:


> Deleting the evap system won't affect vac readings at all provided you capped off the line going to the intake mani. Did you leave the line going back to the fuel tank open so the tank can vent?


Line going to the intake manifold is used for vacuum signal for DV shared with waste gate and gauge. Line going back to tank is plugged so that gasoline fumes won't vent under the engine hood.



> The head spacer won't change much in terms of vac readings, it won't put it down to 14. Maybe a half inch difference from before the spacer.


I'm running a 2mm head spacer I guess it's 9:1 on a mkIII



> I like to pressure test for vac leaks, I'll hook up a compressor to the compressor intake with a home depot rubber pipe cap, clamp, and hose barb and go to 25 psi at least. Then I turn off the compressor and listen and go around with soapy water and check as much as I can. YOu'll hear some air going through the inside of the engine as there will be air passing through some of the valves.
> 
> You can always spray suspect areas with starter fluid with the engine running and listen for the idle to rise, but I don't like to do that.
> 
> you might try another gauge, maybe that one is broken.


It's on my list right after I swap in stock software to see how the will behave.


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## ziddey (Apr 16, 2006)

with a lambda system and automatic idle control, vacuum leaks can often be masked since the ecu is compensating.


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## 'dubber (Jun 15, 2004)

Corsten, you want the line going back to the tank open so that the fuel tank can replace fuel with air as you use fuel.


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## kamahao112 (Nov 17, 2007)

also try another boost/vac gauge .. i have had 2 separate gauges read two different readings side by side


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## Corsten (Sep 26, 2005)

guys, I just remembered one thing. my car is a 2.9L from factory, and major difference here could be cams... 

as per wikipedia: 
"_2.9 litre version with 140 kilowatts (190 PS; 188 bhp) had a free flowing 6 centimetres (2.4 in) (2.5 in) catalytic converter, *sharper camshafts*, 4 bars (58 psi) fuel pressure regulator, enlarged inlet manifold, and larger throttle body._" 

what do you think?


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## Corsten (Sep 26, 2005)

***FIXED*** 

OK, so I read somewhere people saying to use a separate signal for wastegate, DV and gauge if possible. 

I redesigned my vacuum lines so that DV is connected to nipple by throttle body, wastegate to manifold where you guys in US have brake booster connected, and gauge sharing signal with FPR, and voila!, I get -0.7 bar at idle (20-21inhg). Thanks!


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## 'dubber (Jun 15, 2004)

Good job man, I saw that pic of your vac lines in another post and thought cleaning them up would do you good in general. Hey can you teach me how to get vagcom to spit out those charts that you posted? I have paid for the full version years ago and its fully updated.


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## Corsten (Sep 26, 2005)

thanks, I decided to give it a try, and it worked, actually it seemed to help with my low rpm stumble issues as well - I will update on this later in my other thread since it was ust a short drive and I don't wanna toot my horn here, will follow up on this. 

as far as vag com. I won't be home till tomorrow so i could take screenshots to show you exactly how to do it. 
Meanwhile I'll try to explain. When you go into selecting groups (o2, rpm, or whatever), when you look at the lower right of the screen you will see 2 buttons among others. "LOG" and "VAGSCOPE" - Well, you click on LOG, select a filename (I think it uses some defaut location so make sure to remember the filename to search for it later) and click start. It will then start logging to a file in CSV format which MS excel can open. Give it a try and let me know how that worked out for you.


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