# Seat Leon Cupra R AWD 2008cc PPT5935R E85 build



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

So I've been playing with my 600bhp fwd Cupra R last few years and getting tired of wheelspin up to 100mph so I just bought the same car only with a gen 1 Haldex system. Time to grip! 


The plan is to take all the good parts from my Cupra R and stick them in the Haldex car. Motor, clutch, IC, oil cooler, front linkage, interior, doors, front and rear bumper, Eurodyne ECU, steering wheel and ign lock with move over so I don't need to immo defeat the ECU. I'll control the Haldex with a standalone from CRC Performance in Germany. I'll also move over front coilovers as they are the same but need new coilovers for the rear.

http://www.crc-performance.com/inde...ldexsteuerung-beschreibung&catid=55&Itemid=88

Turbo will be upgraded as well. Billet V2 3071R will be replaced by a PPT5935R and Arnold will machine out my PPT .72ar housing to fit the Garret 35R wheel. Neat 



Will be a lot of work but I think end result will be worth it. 


Pics to arrive later. :wave:


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

*Seat Leon AWD PPT 2008cc PT5835R E85 build*

Nice. That's pretty much a car most if us would love to have here in the states. Looking forward to more updates


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

Wow, looking forward to the build! :thumbup::beer:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Now we're talking! :thumbup::thumbup:


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## Budsdubbin (Jul 14, 2008)

awesomeness :thumbup:


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## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*Seat Leon AWD PPT 2008cc PT5835R E85 build*

Wicked mate, will be immense with the haldex

Won't just machining the .72 ar gt30 housing for the gt35 lower the ar? I'm probably completely wrong but thought it was all relative to the turbine size?

Anyways look forward to the build


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## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

StaceyS3 said:


> Wicked mate, will be immense with the haldex
> 
> Won't just machining the .72 ar gt30 housing for the gt35 lower the ar? I'm probably completely wrong but thought it was all relative to the turbine size?
> 
> Anyways look forward to the build


Nope, the 72ar is designed off the T3 frame which is similar to the GT housings so the A/R will actually stay the same in the scroll. It will be opened up in the inducer portion of the housing so flow in this area will actually be increased.

BTW, took quite a bit to coerce PTE to make this combo. Its going to be killer I'm sure :thumbup:


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## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*Seat Leon AWD PPT 2008cc PT5835R E85 build*

Ahh everydays a school day.....cheers for clearing that up Al

Any chance will be making more housings?


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## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

Always have them in stock :thumbup:


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## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

*Seat Leon AWD PPT 2008cc PT5835R E85 build*

My favorite build just got...favoriter? Haha heck yeah in for this opcorn:


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

Go PAG, go!


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## Three3Se7en (Jul 2, 2007)

Gulfstream is at it again!


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

yessss!! finally!

now i need to get my ass done re-wiring my car so i can send my urbo in for the v2 wheel and build my rotisserie and get to AWd myself.

stoked to see this come to life!!:beer::beer::beer::thumbup::thumbup::wave::wave::heart::heart:


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

*Seat Leon AWD PPT 2008cc PT5835R E85 build*

Subd for more Gulfstream awesomeness opcorn:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Another thing I need to carry over is the front Brembo's from the R. Would like to upgrade the oem 256 rears as well. I see ECS has a 307mm rotor for the rear. Anyone with experience on these? 

Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk


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## badger5 (Nov 17, 2003)

Gulfstream said:


> Another thing I need to carry over is the front Brembo's from the R. Would like to upgrade the oem 256 rears as well. I see ECS has a 307mm rotor for the rear. Anyone with experience on these?
> 
> Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk


racers I race against in a fwd LCR, added 300+mm rear disks and proceeded to spin like a top with too much rear braking..
If your 4wd stays locked 4wd under braking you might be able to use the larger rear disk setup without unbalancing the car...


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

*Re: Seat Leon AWD PPT 2008cc PT5835R E85 build*



badger5 said:


> racers I race against in a fwd LCR, added 300+mm rear disks and proceeded to spin like a top with too much rear braking..
> If your 4wd stays locked 4wd under braking you might be able to use the larger rear disk setup without unbalancing the car...


I'll be locked 50/50 permanent during trackdays. Also during deceleration. BTW, I need new rotors and let's do DS2500 pads this year Bill  

Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk


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## KmosK04 (Dec 18, 2012)

Subed! Waiting for pics mate!


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Decided to add a Peloquin front and rear torsen diff for better handling on the track. This together with a Haldex controller should cover that department.

:beer:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Looking at KW clubsport coilovers. Opinions on those?


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## styling5030 (Feb 13, 2009)

watch this

a german leon 4wd race build

http://www.tij-racing.de/das-auto/


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Yes I have seen it. Inspiring craftsmanship. I'm lucky as my car came with awd from factory. 

Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> Looking at KW clubsport coilovers. Opinions on those?


Depending on what you're coming from, the KW clubsports are decent coilovers. However, for the kind of use you have for the car, I wouldn't personally touch anything KW until their competition line. The CS are IMO a hybrid between the variants 3 and Competitions, and are still following the luxury/comfort philosophy that KW is known for (with tame, conservative spring and valving selection compared to other alternative options). 

I would also look into JRZ, Ground Control ADs, and even comparable AST before settling on KW CS (that's if you have to have valving adjustments which could be more of a curse than a blessing). I'm not 100% percent sure, but I think that your new platform share suspension with the Mk1 AWD TT/S3/R32. If that's the case, I've done tons of development and modeled the suspension for the platform. We can definitely share notes and I'll help you with your selection and let you know all the available options.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

*Re: Seat Leon AWD PPT 2008cc PT5835R E85 build*

Gaz

They're awesome

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Depending on what you're coming from, the KW clubsports are decent coilovers. However, for the kind of use you have for the car, I wouldn't personally touch anything KW until their competition line. The CS are IMO a hybrid between the variants 3 and Competitions, and are still following the luxury/comfort philosophy that KW is known for (with tame, conservative spring and valving selection compared to other alternative options).
> 
> I would also look into JRZ, Ground Control ADs, and even comparable AST before settling on KW CS (that's if you have to have valving adjustments which could be more of a curse than a blessing). I'm not 100% percent sure, but I think that your new platform share suspension with the Mk1 AWD TT/S3/R32. If that's the case, I've done tons of development and modeled the suspension for the platform. We can definitely share notes and I'll help you with your selection and let you know all the available options.


On my Cupra R I've ran with K-sport coilovers which has been a tad too soft. I've used the dampers at max hardness all the time and felt them to be too soft for the track. Comfy on the road tho.

What I'd like is an ok spring and some really strong dampers that I can set for sporty on the road and rock hard for the track.90% race 10% street

Leon mk1 awd is same chassis as mk1 S3/TT/R32 so if you've done alot of testing on that platform I'm all ears 

What setup would you suggest as I have no knowledge of the brands you mention at all.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

*Re: Seat Leon AWD PPT 2008cc PT5835R E85 build*

The rss or club sports from h&r are nice. Kw v3 are OK. But line I said. .. gaz. You can build the suspension how you want it. 
D2 is another custom company. Cost as much a good set of big name coils

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> The rss or club sports from h&r are nice. Kw v3 are OK. But line I said. .. gaz. You can build the suspension how you want it.
> D2 is another custom company. Cost as much a good set of big name coils
> 
> Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


I looked at Gaz website and shoot them an email. Reason I like KW CS is because they are stiffer than V3, are made of SS and not plated so they are good against corrosion.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

I bought these: 

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-R32_MKIV--3.2/Suspension/View_All/ES5527/

http://www.awe-tuning.com/h-r-coilovers-rss-coilovers-1-2-2-2in-1-0-2-3in

AWE had a sale a few weeks back :thumbup:


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

18T_BT said:


> I bought these:
> 
> http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-R32_MKIV--3.2/Suspension/View_All/ES5527/
> 
> ...


RSS are the bees knees I have the same on the racecar.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

18T_BT said:


> I bought these:
> 
> http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-R32_MKIV--3.2/Suspension/View_All/ES5527/
> 
> ...





formerly silveratljetta said:


> RSS are the bees knees I have the same on the racecar.


What kind of racing do you guys do? I think H&R with a fixed rate damper would be too soft for a track like Rudskogen and some tracks here in Scandinavia. Specially when I run on slicks I need hard dampers on Rudskogen.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

*Re: Seat Leon AWD PPT 2008cc PT5835R E85 build*

I had rss h&r on my R32 I used at the track. They're awesome. I've never used the kw cs ask no input. 

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

*Re: Seat Leon AWD PPT 2008cc PT5835R E85 build*

Though I'm partial to gaz because I can get it the way I want. Stiff. 

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Ok, here is the scoop:


*Spring rate and valving selection*
The chosen spring and valving rate is what's going to make or break the on-track and normal driving behavior. For example, a coilover with a high spring rate can be more forgiving and bearable in normal use than one with lower rates and less adequate valving (low speed valving controls the range of chassis lean through cornering, while the high speed valving, especially if digressive, tames the behavior through undulations and deeps in the surface). Stiff or soft are the worst way to look a coilover performance as it doesn't tell anything about the true performance since a stiff-feeling setup could be performing horribly and vice versa. 


Now, how is all that helping you in your decision? The answer is brand philosophy. KW for example is notorious for focussing more on a certain luxurious feel through their spring and valving choices, instead of all out performance. For a 90/10 track/street car, it wouldn't be smart to sacrifice all out performance for a bit more civility (trust me, well valved coilovers won't beat you up until you're up to or exceeding the 3Hz range of chassis natural frequency). So, I suggest that you go with something more track-oriented than the KW CS. 


Before I get to tell you what coilover I suggest, I think I need to also explain a few things. Spring rates (or overall wheel rates if you go that deep) are dictated mainly by the suspension motion ratio (front and rear), and the platform's weight where an ideal natural frequency will be chosen. It not unusual to see "good brands" like KW cut corners on their spring selection just to remain true with their philosophy. To help you visualize it, the platform you're building has a 0.97 front motion ratio, and a 0.65 rear motion ratio (determined by the distance from the swing arm(s) outer pivot point, to the spring mounting location on said swing arm(s).) A .97 motion ratio means that the effective rate of the spring will be close to the same at the wheel (a 1,000 lbs spring will have 1,000 x .97= 970 effective rate. While the same 1,000 lbs spring in the rear will only give 1,000 x 0.63= 630 lbs effective rate at the wheel). Therefore, it takes certain brands to be serious enough to put together spring selection that will truly work with the platform. To illustrate this, a 600lbs front spring selection needs a very high rear spring section to have appropriate balance (around 1,100 lbs springs). As far as I know, only a few off-the-shelf offerings will give you that kind of performance in spring selection and valving. 


Another thing to keep in consideration, is shock construction and the need for adjustability. Inverted monotubes with good shaft diameter are the only thing I use in my track cars. It doesn't mean that other constructions like twin tubes, wet inserts into housings, etc. can't work well, but from experience, Iearned that they are nowhere near the good old inverted monos in terms of raw strength and durability. Having valving adjustability is another big thing with coilovers. Most people who aren't really initiated, think that having adjusting knobs is a good thing, however in reality it could be quite a disadvantage in most situations. Ask yourself how many people with adjustable units know if or how much crosstalk there is between compression and rebound curves with their knobs. Or how many people are turning a dial without ever seeing a dyno plot of their shocks (with the effects of screwing with the curves), or knowing if the changes are linear throughout (or even from side to side). Personally, with all the experience I acquired over the year tuning suspensions, unless there is a big budget for dyno tuning the coilovers at every stage of adjustment with various springs that could be used, I stay away from shooting in the dark with unknown valving adjustments. 
*
This is what the inverted mono used in the RSS clubsports looks like stripped out (beefy and able to take huge loads for extended period of time)
*










With all that out of the way, my first choice (which is what I run in my car, although re-valved to my specs with custom spring rates) is the H&R RSS Clubsports. They are based on the proven Bilstein inverted monotubes and their spring rate and valving are in tune with what the platform's needs. They come with right of the gate with good Natural Frequency choice in the sub-3Hz neighborhood with 685/1150 lbs springs - and very good valving curves that can be an awesome combo as is (I went for more rebound digression and a little less aggressive high speed compression and 700/1300 lbs springs but that's simply because I was after perfection while targeting the bumpier track surfaces here in the US). The RSS also allowed easy and affordable rebuild/revalve option for me in the US which is a big factor when getting coilovers that will be raced seriously. 


Other choices like AST, Ground control Advance Design, JRZ , are what I would suggest (the order being price and purpose) if you have to go with adjustable valving. (It is to be noted that the RSS can be uprated with adjusters, but their linearity and consistency didn't make it worth the hassle IMO).


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Tnx Marcus. So if I shoot for springs around 700/1300 and some clubsport dampers I'll be in the ballpark. I really do like adjustable dampers that I can set max stiff for track and less on the street tho... 

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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Gulfstream said:


> What kind of racing do you guys do? I think H&R with a fixed rate damper would be too soft for a track like Rudskogen and some tracks here in Scandinavia. Specially when I run on slicks I need hard dampers on Rudskogen.



I don't think these are just regular off the shelf H&R Coils. I will be 100% honest and say I got them because Max recommended them and from reading online most people described them as stiff. Some of these folks went to H&R street versions and more common off the shelf options and were much happier. I am more like you and would prefer something a bit more stiff. Just like Max pointed out, I don't have the ability to dyno different shocks and hopefully will be happy with them. They are still sitting in a box with a bunch of other parts. I am going to have a similar set up to yours but in a TT except staying closer to 1.9L and 3071r Pag set up.

I am curious about your next fueling set up Øistein :thumbup:


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

18T_BT said:


> I don't think these are just regular off the shelf H&R Coils. I will be 100% honest and say I got them because Max recommended them and from reading online most people described them as stiff. Some of these folks went to H&R street versions and more common off the shelf options and were much happier. I am more like you and would prefer something a bit more stiff. Just like Max pointed out, I don't have the ability to dyno different shocks and hopefully will be happy with them. They are still sitting in a box with a bunch of other parts. I am going to have a similar set up to yours but in a TT except staying closer to 1.9L and 3071r Pag set up.
> 
> I am curious about your next fueling set up Øistein :thumbup:


H&R RSS are "off the shelf" coils but the spring rates and valving leave little room for compromise. They are stiffer than most would prefer for a street car, but with that said I had them on my daily for a couple of years.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> What kind of racing do you guys do? I think H&R with a fixed rate damper would be too soft for a track like Rudskogen and some tracks here in Scandinavia. Specially when I run on slicks I need hard dampers on Rudskogen.





Gulfstream said:


> Tnx Marcus. So if I shoot for springs around 700/1300 and some clubsport dampers I'll be in the ballpark. I really do like adjustable dampers that I can set max stiff for track and less on the street tho...
> 
> Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk



I have the perfect data and illustrations to answer how "stiff" they are on-track (I don't like the word stiff because it could mean negative things instead of pure bodyroll control). 

Using the default spring (685/1150) in the RSS, this is what the load distribution is on all 4 tires at 1G of steady state cornering forces (453/77lbs loaded on the inside tires). It must be noted that I'm using no front anti-roll bar rate (they induce way to much understeer to have a place in any serious track setup with this platform), and 15 mm at factory lever hole length for rear anti-roll bar value.















For a visual reference of what the data translate into in real life, these following fully loaded steady state sweeper pics shows you that even with very high grip generated by 295 and 315 race rubber, there is plenty of roll control.
*
This recent pic is with the RSS 685/1150 default spring rate on medium level grip surface. There is enough grip to lift the inside rear and almost pick up the inside front, yet the roll angle isn't excessive
*








*
This steady state pic is on higher grip surface with lots of rubber laid on the ground at an SCCA ProSolo, roll control angles are exceptional for an on-camber turn with lots of grip.

*










Now you should have a good general idea of how much roll control they offer at their default spring rates and the optimized 700/1300 lbs rate. As far as needing to dial them down for regular duty, they're not "soft" (aggressively valved) but I can assure you that if my pregnant wife could daily drive on them in horrible NY roads, you'll be fine with a 90/10 duty car.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

this is great info and research O


i can't really get into the spring rates and valving for your platform but some info does pass over from MKI to MK4 chassis..i also dont run a front sway or strut bar. just an adjustable tie bar(which you gusy don't have) i run a huuge solid rear sway and a custom(i made it to my specs) rear triangulated strut bar. i did this on thr race car as well even with a full SCCA spec cage for each class(ITA then ITB then ITS) and it made a huge difference when i added a front. hated it. def go the same route.

i am also into having higher spring values, though the out of the box setup of the RSS coils are awesome. marcus has got this spot on for that platform it seems. have you thought about doing a bolt in rear roll bar section..or even caging the car??

how about going with upgraded and lightened axles and driveshaft? trying to lose some weight but not going too far as it is still a road car..or would you consider some more massive weight losses? this can also make a huge difference. 200lbs off the car will change the cars chassis dynamics with upgraded suspension quite nicely. even more so when you get to the 400lb loss mark and so on.

i know this is kind of off topic but at the same time...it can allow you to run the out of box RSs rates more effectively and well....increase grip levels a bit and jsut all around improve the cars performance on tracks days and efficeiency over all.


to me it seems the car is becoming mroe and more of a dedicated track car with street capabilities. i know this also has to fall under VAT or whatever safety regulations of your area etc.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

18T_BT said:


> I don't think these are just regular off the shelf H&R Coils. I will be 100% honest and say I got them because Max recommended them and from reading online most people described them as stiff. Some of these folks went to H&R street versions and more common off the shelf options and were much happier. I am more like you and would prefer something a bit more stiff. Just like Max pointed out, I don't have the ability to dyno different shocks and hopefully will be happy with them. They are still sitting in a box with a bunch of other parts. I am going to have a similar set up to yours but in a TT except staying closer to 1.9L and 3071r Pag set up.
> 
> I am curious about your next fueling set up Øistein :thumbup:


I'll carry over my current setup which is Walbro 450LPH intak pump with a high flow metal filter inline and 3bar FPR. Stock rail. Running a fat powercable directly from battery to pump.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> I have the perfect data and illustrations to answer how "stiff" they are on-track (I don't like the word stiff because it could mean negative things instead of pure bodyroll control).
> 
> Using the default spring (685/1150) in the RSS, this is what the load distribution is on all 4 tires at 1G of steady state cornering forces (453/77lbs loaded on the inside tires). It must be noted that I'm using no front anti-roll bar rate (they induce way to much understeer to have a place in any serious track setup with this platform), and 15 mm at factory lever hole length for rear anti-roll bar value.
> 
> ...



Looks like you got this dialed in for that cone racing. How is your setup on a high speed track like the Nurburgring or similar where your dampers will have to work with 100mph high G corners on sometimes bumpy surface?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> this is great info and research O
> 
> 
> i can't really get into the spring rates and valving for your platform but some info does pass over from MKI to MK4 chassis..i also dont run a front sway or strut bar. just an adjustable tie bar(which you gusy don't have) i run a huuge solid rear sway and a custom(i made it to my specs) rear triangulated strut bar. i did this on thr race car as well even with a full SCCA spec cage for each class(ITA then ITB then ITS) and it made a huge difference when i added a front. hated it. def go the same route.
> ...


I'll carry over the whole front suspension setup from my R as it has a slightly different and more rigid design the the AWD car. Front ARB and strut brace will also be moved over. For now I wont get a rear ARB as I noticed absolutely no difference on my R setup which is same as yours(FWD) with a rear sway bar. I might add a rear ARB later if I feel understeer is too bad and if the rear dont move around as much as it did on the R.
I will still try and get a MOT on this car so Ill wait with cage until I see what they say. As Ill prolly run closer to 600bhp on the track with this new turbo I'll have to focus on strength rather than lightweight axles and joints. Will run oem and see how long they last then I'll look for some upgraded axles. 

You are correct about the track focus. I'll basically build a trackcar that looks look like a streetcar and can pass MOT :wave:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> Looks like you got this dialed in for that cone racing. How is your setup on a high speed track like the Nurburgring or similar where your dampers will have to work with 100mph high G corners on sometimes bumpy surface?



Don't let the cone racing fool you, I'm primarily a circuit racer and the pictures were to showcase steady state cornering which is what you essentially tune for (kind of like the suspension's equivalent of WOT engine tuning). The behavior of the RSS, due to their decently digressive nature in the high speed range of the valving curves (3+ Hz), is very composed at speed higher than 65 mph with steering inputs. Put it this way, they will make the tires hug the surface even at triple digit speed and a bumpy surface.


The only thing I will warn against if running these track-oriented coilovers is having an unsettling alignment setup, and oversized/stiff rear anti roll bar that limits rear grip. The bandaid approach to un-stick the rear via alignment and big rear bar is not needed with these coilovers. You need to run a 14 mm or 15 mm rear anti roll bar at the most or you're asking for trouble at high speed. You also need to properly dial the alignment (especially in the rear) with some good toe-in. 1/8" of rear toe-in is what I recommend for tracks with lots of high speed and bumpy transitions/corners - I have found that you could go as bold as 1/32" at the most if you if you're dialing for a smooth track with mostly medium speed corners (1/16" of rear toe-in is a happy medium if you don't re-align for every type track you're doing). Also for keeping the rear inline, run no more than -1.5 of static rear camber or you're just removing rear grip by reducing the overall contact patch for that axle (which plays a big role on how stable the car is in high speed turns). 


The RSS is an awesome track-oriented coilover combo put together by H&R, aside from other setup shortcomings, they will perform amazingly well at low-medium-high speed cornering. :beer:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Great input guys :beer:

I won't run rear ARB for next season as I don't know yet how loose the rear end will be in high speed corners. Front ARB and strut brace already in place on the R and will be carried over.
So, I'll shoot an email to H&R and ask for a bit stiffer springs for their RSS dampers and try to compare with the KW CS dampers.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> I'll carry over the whole front suspension setup from my R as it has a slightly different and more rigid design the the AWD car. Front ARB and strut brace will also be moved over. For now I wont get a rear ARB as I noticed absolutely no difference on my R setup which is same as yours(FWD) with a rear sway bar. I might add a rear ARB later if I feel understeer is too bad and if the rear dont move around as much as it did on the R.
> I will still try and get a MOT on this car so Ill wait with cage until I see what they say. As Ill prolly run closer to 600bhp on the track with this new turbo I'll have to focus on strength rather than lightweight axles and joints. Will run oem and see how long they last then I'll look for some upgraded axles.
> 
> 
> You are correct about the track focus. I'll basically build a trackcar that looks look like a streetcar and can pass MOT



The things that jumps out with this statement is carrying over big ARB into the new setup. Unless you love understeer, going the opposite way is what you should be after. 


During my suspension development for the platform, and quest to totally eliminate understeer, I had the opportunity to test various front ARB setups. Going from a stock size front bar, I went with a custom modified bar that reduced the rate a sizable percentage. I did it by elongating the ARB lever arms with welded extension pieces with new mounting holes drilled. The immediate effect was a lot less understeer at all cornering phases (especially at hot corner entry and early on-throttle exits). The success of the move lead me to try disconnecting the front ARB on a single track event to test it as a single variable. The result was an eye-opener, without the front ARB connected, most (if not all) of the understeer was gone and translated into faster times. The only drawback was slightly reduced transition sharpness, but it right came back by dialing more static front camber compensation (from -2.6 to -3.5). 


Trust me, with coilovers like the RSS or other properly sprung ones, there no need for a front ARB because all it does is induce understeer (there is more than enough front roll control from the springs alone to not need it). 




Custom front ARB mod that reduced the effective rate by elongating the lever arms


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

remove front ARB... wow, now we are talking outside the box. but what you say make perfect sense. Just never occurred to me I could safely remove it...


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> Great input guys
> 
> 
> I won't run rear ARB for next season as I don't know yet how loose the rear end will be in high speed corners. Front ARB and strut brace already in place on the R and will be carried over.
> So, I'll shoot an email to H&R and ask for a bit stiffer springs for their RSS dampers and try to compare with the KW CS dampers.



The front is where you really *don't* want to run an ARB. In the rear, with coilovers in the 1,000 lbs spring rates you could still run an ARB that is not overbearing and have a very composed, and confidence-inspiring car. Like I mentioned before, a 14 mm or 15 mm rear ARB at the most will not be a problem, but anything bigger and the tail wants comes alive and wants to come around (even the USDM OEM 15 mm R32 bar starts to lift inside rear tires at high G loads on grippy surfaces). 


Your choices of suitable rear bars in that range I recommended can be found in the factory bin. For example here the post-recall OEM TT rear ARB is 14 mm and the R32 one is 15 mm and those are what I use depending on the level of grip of the surface. I don't know the thickness of the OEM rear ARB that came with your new AWD chassis, but I'm sure you'll be able to source 14-15 mm bars on the side of the pond. 


As you'd imagine, I simulated and physically tested running without a rear bar. I don't recommend it for reasons seen on paper and in practice. Yes, removing the rear ARB from the equation would help tame a potential lively rear end, but it brings other problems that make the move pointless IMO. The void in rear roll stiffness (without the bar helping) have to be picked up by the spring rates or you're back to square one with a setup with not enough rear roll control. Well, bumping the rear spring rate high enough to properly compensate, unfortunately puts you in natural frequencies that are way over 3Hz. Having such high NF in the back have the same snap-oversteer effect at high speed and bumps. Unless you have serious aero bits to help the mechanical grip by pushing the rear down at speed, it's as bad (in term balance) as running a huge rear bar with proper spring rates. 


Another good thing to do with those OEM bars is too is to drill new adjusting holes. What that does if give you the option and ability to stiffer or softer to dial the balance at will. 






Here you can see the NF at the default rate of the RSS as well as the more optimized 700/1300 springs that I run. At 1300 rear springs you're already above 3Hz and it's not enough to carry the wheel rate loss from deleting the rear ARB.






















These are the 14 and 15 mm factory rear ARB that I talked about, and the adjustable hole mod that comes in handy.


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> remove front ARB... wow, now we are talking outside the box. but what you say make perfect sense. Just never occurred to me I could safely remove it...


I wouldn't call it outside the box since many circles of circuit racers (like the MK1 golf, rabbit, and sirocco guys) have made a science out of doing this to front-heavy and understeer-prone cars with McPherson front geometry.


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> I wouldn't call it outside the box since many circles of circuit racers (like the MK1 golf, rabbit, and sirocco guys) have made a science out of doing this to front-heavy and understeer-prone cars with McPherson front geometry.


Well it's new to me. I can tell you with my slicks up front the car responded REALLY well in the corners. I'll try to run without front arb, keep front strut brace and keep oem rear arb. H&R RSS coilovers seems to come out on top.


This suspension setup with Peloquin front and rear, Haldex controller + slicks should get me really close to where I want to be.


----------



## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

*Seat Leon AWD PPT 2008cc PT5835R E85 build*



Gulfstream said:


> Well it's new to me. I can tell you with my slicks up front the car responded REALLY well in the corners. I'll try to run without front arb, keep front strut brace and keep oem rear arb. H&R RSS coilovers seems to come out on top.
> 
> 
> This suspension setup with Peloquin front and rear, Haldex controller + slicks should get me really close to where I want to be.


I love this thread already :thumbup: sounds like a very solid setup


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

*Re: Seat Leon AWD PPT 2008cc PT5835R E85 build*

Here is the awd chassis. Let's call this the "before" pic. 












ad this is the other FWD Cupra R.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

So, the stock engine from this AWD version going into the FWD version and you will have 2 cars (1 to keep and 1 to sell) ?


You should show the picture of the modified car next to the stock car to do a 'true' before picture


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> Well it's new to me. I can tell you with my slicks up front the car responded REALLY well in the corners. I'll try to run without front arb, keep front strut brace and keep oem rear arb. H&R RSS coilovers seems to come out on top.
> 
> 
> This suspension setup with Peloquin front and rear, Haldex controller + slicks should get me really close to where I want to be.


Sounds like a terrific plan for the project (although I wouldn't bother with a front LSD on this platform with AWD, but that's *if it came with EDL standard. *Better doesn't hurt though!)




Gulfstream said:


> Here is the awd chassis. Let's call this the "before" pic.
> 
> Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk


Love it! :thumbup:

BTW, let me know if need any inputs in chassis/suspension setup, I have plenty of other stuff for further developing the platform.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

18T_BT said:


> So, the stock engine from this AWD version going into the FWD version and you will have 2 cars (1 to keep and 1 to sell) ?
> 
> 
> You should show the picture of the modified car next to the stock car to do a 'true' before picture


As I'll use my old R car as a donor car I'll prolly scrap it when I'm done. Will move over front/rear bumper, all doors and hatch + hood. The awd engine is a 180bhp unit that runs just fine. It has a renovated k03 turbo so I'll get a few pennys for it.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Sounds like a terrific plan for the project (although I wouldn't bother with a front LSD on this platform with AWD, but that's *if it came with EDL standard. *Better doesn't hurt though!)
> 
> Love it! :thumbup:
> 
> BTW, let me know if need any inputs in chassis/suspension setup, I have plenty of other stuff for further developing the platform.


Cheers, appreciate it mucho :thumbup:

I was thinking to run only a rear torsen diff but as I'll be locked 50/50 with the haldex controller and good power from the engine I thought I might as well get the front to keep inside from spinning. It will also help me accelerating out of the corners.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

sos toked for this. going to be a wells orted and lethal weapon:beer::beer::thumbup::thumbup:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Gulfstream said:


> So I've been playing with my 600bhp fwd Cupra R last few years and getting tired of wheelspin up to 100mph so I just bought the same car only with a gen 1 Haldex system. Time to grip :laugh:


:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Glad to see you're upgrading to AWD! Now we can really start comparing numbers as we're going to be running identical drivetrain/motors/cold side of turbos... we're both :screwy:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

DougLoBue said:


> :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
> 
> Glad to see you're upgrading to AWD! Now we can really start comparing numbers as we're going to be running identical drivetrain/motors/cold side of turbos... we're both :screwy:


I figured the motor I built deserved a better chassis so here we go! One thing is for sure, this modding aint free :screwy:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

For the coilpack cooling I'll grind out 2 triangles in the hood and attach two NACA ducts beneath to direct air at the coils. Now, I prefer not to bolt the ducts to the hood so any suggestions on how I can attach them to the underside of the hood? They will be situated over IM and end just before head starts so it won't be horribly superhot... They are made of some hard plastic covered by carbon finish:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

*Re: Seat Leon AWD PPT 2008cc PT5835R E85 build*

Rivets

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> Rivets
> 
> Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


Well, I'd prefer not to have any bolts or rivets going through the hood. Will JB Weld be strong enough?


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

*Seat Leon AWD PPT 2008cc PT5835R E85 build*



Vegeta Gti said:


> Rivets
> 
> Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


Duct tape


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Duct tape


You mean chewing gum? .. anybody else?


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

*Seat Leon AWD PPT 2008cc PT5835R E85 build*

Why not use body panel adhesive?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> Why not use body panel adhesive?


Well I've searched the interweb last couple hours and found something pretty amazing if it's correct data:

Look at specs for 3M F9460PC VHB:


http://www.google.se/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CCwQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fmultimedia.3m.com%2Fmws%2Fmediawebserver%3F66666UuZjcFSLXTtMXfan8TXEVuQEcuZgVs6EVs6E666666--3M-Y966&ei=8A2tUsPvO8WA4gSj_YCwDA&usg=AFQjCNFP9rOpOeTCfuxRIrvTDemh4-saSg&sig2=hkY1fWukDXkLCrXMDBwg-A&bvm=bv.57967247,d.bGE


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## badger5 (Nov 17, 2003)

Gulfstream said:


> For the coilpack cooling I'll grind out 2 triangles in the hood and attach two NACA ducts beneath to direct air at the coils. Now, I prefer not to bolt the ducts to the hood so any suggestions on how I can attach them to the underside of the hood? They will be situated over IM and end just before head starts so it won't be horribly superhot... They are made of some hard plastic covered by carbon finish:


in the UK we use a product called tiger seal.. its a black polyurethane glue which comes in 300ml cartidges
sticks like sh1t to a blanket and is used to bond panels on cars


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Tnx Bill I'll look into that 

Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Alea iacta est. I'll do 3M VHB on one duct and tiger seal on the other. Last duct hanging wins. 

Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

*Re: Seat Leon AWD PPT 2008cc PT5835R E85 build*

I'm unsure why you would suddenly want to cheap out lol. 

There are epoxies made for high pressure (airflow) and high heat situations. .... skip jbweld man. Lol

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Not a matter of cheap it's a matter of not having bolts sticking through my hood on a car I will attempt to pass mot 

Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

ahhhhh. 

when i posted bill hadn't posted. that stuff is great. but there are tons of epoxies and such out there. should be one you like out there that fits the application.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Yeah, I'll try the ones I mentioned. Remember the decal on your car is held in place with some 3M stuff. I'm getting the hardcore version good up to 300c. Let's see what happens. 

Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

awesome


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

It'll be fine. Next I need to focus on brakes an aero downforce. I'll wait with big rear brake until I see the balance in the car with permanent 50/50 and Ferodo DS2500 all around. The R Brembo's with 330x28 2-piece rotors up front have served me well so far. I heard about PFC 01 and 08 might be better but hard to find reviews on them. 

Rear downforce I'll add a diffuser and mby a spoiler on top of my current R one which is already bigger than the awd one. 

Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

This AWD car has a narrowband loom and ECU. I'll bring on my wideband ECU with Eurodyne. DO I have to swap over the loom as well or can I use the narrowband loom?


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## Sim (Jun 27, 2002)

Wideband lambda uses 2 extra wires compared to the narrowband one (of course with a different connector). These can be added to the "narrowband" loom (i did the same), BUT it really all depends on how much difference is between those ECUs. Usually the loom for a "narrowband" car has got other differences, too. For example no VVT, no separate current supply relay (only fuel pump relay), etc...


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Sim said:


> Wideband lambda uses 2 extra wires compared to the narrowband one (of course with a different connector). These can be added to the "narrowband" loom (i did the same), BUT it really all depends on how much difference is between those ECUs. Usually the loom for a "narrowband" car has got other differences, too. For example no VVT, no separate current supply relay (only fuel pump relay), etc...


K. So I might as well swap over the wideband loom.


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## Sim (Jun 27, 2002)

Gulfstream said:


> K. So I might as well swap over the wideband loom.


Probably, but thats hell of a work (lambda is on the big ECU connector btw). Also be sure to install the current supply relay, too. On latest cars (with wideband ecus) that supplies power to coils, also to the DBW throttle on the ECU pin 121.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I see Raceline sell a contact adapter... Perhaps even easier to do that:

http://www.raceline-ws.com/shop/specialized-harness


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## Sim (Jun 27, 2002)

Gulfstream said:


> I see Raceline sell a contact adapter... Perhaps even easier to do that:
> 
> http://www.raceline-ws.com/shop/specialized-harness


Yes, definitely! It even has got a (probably resistor trick?) for the VVT on pin #115. My car did not have a wire on pin #121 (seat ibiza) if yours has, then this should work!

EDIT: Checked the curent flow diagrams: even narrowband leons have the current supply relay built in .


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Sim said:


> Yes, definitely! It even has got a (probably resistor trick?) for the VVT on pin #115. My car did not have a wire on pin #121 (seat ibiza) if yours has, then this should work!


My wideband ECU is from a BAM225hp motor and I've been using it to control a AGU non-VVT motor last few years with no problems.

:beer:


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## Sim (Jun 27, 2002)

Gulfstream said:


> My wideband ECU is from a BAM225hp motor and I've been using it to control a AGU non-VVT motor last few years with no problems.
> 
> :beer:


Cool :thumbup:


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## badger5 (Nov 17, 2003)

Sim said:


> Wideband lambda uses 2 extra wires compared to the narrowband one (of course with a different connector). These can be added to the "narrowband" loom (i did the same), BUT it really all depends on how much difference is between those ECUs. Usually the loom for a "narrowband" car has got other differences, too. For example no VVT, no separate current supply relay (only fuel pump relay), etc...


simple to add tho


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

First metal porn has arrived for this build. H&R RSS Clubsport coilovers.


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

I still want sexytime with your car!

When I was in Portugal I had to keep my drunken self from taking a Cupra R for a joyride.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

This AWD will be a better ride and with the bodypanels and interior from Cupra R it wont hurt the eyes either.

Why don't you just import one to US? They should be in Mexico.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Gulfstream said:


> First metal porn has arrived for this build. H&R RSS Clubsport coilovers.


:thumbup::thumbup: Had these on my TT, loved them!


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Yeah, I'm psyked this will be great on the ring. Will try Marcus suggestion and run with no front ARB. 

Did you sell your TT?


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Looking good, you'll be amazed how well these perform with the front antiroll bar disconnected!


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Gulfstream said:


> This AWD will be a better ride and with the bodypanels and interior from Cupra R it wont hurt the eyes either.
> 
> Why don't you just import one to US? They should be in Mexico.


we talked in length about this a year or 2 ago. I was going to buy one from the Açores and bring it home on my ship, then I found out I needed 2... one for me and one for the government to "crash test"... So I'd buy 2 get 1 and they destroy 1... it would end up being ~$60k for a Cupra R. I can get a M3 for $60k or 2 Acura NSX's


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

DMVDUB said:


> we talked in length about this a year or 2 ago. I was going to buy one from the Açores and bring it home on my ship, then I found out I needed 2... one for me and one for the government to "crash test"... So I'd buy 2 get 1 and they destroy 1... it would end up being ~$60k for a Cupra R. I can get a M3 for $60k or 2 Acura NSX's


Ouch..


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## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

You would come to Portugal to get a Cupra, and not go to Germany? I bet there, they are half the price, or less!!


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

HidRo said:


> You would come to Portugal to get a Cupra, and not go to Germany? I bet there, they are half the price, or less!!


No actually. They were the same price in Hamburg and in Klaipeda and in Kiel and in Riga, and etc...


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Gulfstream said:


> Yeah, I'm psyked this will be great on the ring. Will try Marcus suggestion and run with no front ARB.
> 
> Did you sell your TT?


I ended up crashing the black TT I had, kept the turbo kit and all performance parts, sold the block.

Picked up a Blue TT shell, Vinyl wrapped it white, now trying to build a stroker motor to bolt my turbo kit to.

I've been on the fence about the benefits of going 2.0L vs the added expensive of roughly $2k on top of the parts I already have - I know you run one - what's your input?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

DougLoBue said:


> I ended up crashing the black TT I had, kept the turbo kit and all performance parts, sold the block.
> 
> Picked up a Blue TT shell, Vinyl wrapped it white, now trying to build a stroker motor to bolt my turbo kit to.
> 
> I've been on the fence about the benefits of going 2.0L vs the added expensive of roughly $2k on top of the parts I already have - I know you run one - what's your input?


oh snap. Did not know that. Good thing only metal got wrecked :thumbup:

For the 2L I'd say go for it if you can swing it. It transformed my motor with much better response and pickup. Specially if you have a bigport.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

:beer::beer::heart::heart::thumbup::thumbup::wave::wave:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

i'm going with standard suspension R7TA setup..custom rates and valving.:beer:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Got some moe parts:

Eurospec cam adjusting wheel









rear Peloquin Torsen diff









New chargepipe, and other parts


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

*Seat Leon AWD PPT 2008cc PT5835R E85 build*

Damn a peloquin in the rear also. Can't wait to see how you like it. What are you doing as far as haldex controller


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Looking good!


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

One-Eight GTI said:


> Damn a peloquin in the rear also. Can't wait to see how you like it. What are you doing as far as haldex controller


Yeah, seems like the rear was easier to get a hold of than the front. Still waiting for the front diff. I have ordered a CRC Performance standalone Haldex controller.


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

So jealous! :thumbup::beer:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Just read the note from Peloquin (Gary) and he say use regular mineral oil for the diff. NO SYNTHETIC.

So what oils are you guys using then?

A: Just came off the phone with Peloquin and he told me mineral oil in the rear and oem stuff up front.

Recommended Valvoline 80-90

http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/valvoline/gear-oil/61


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

boom!! i stand corrected...the motul i'm using is mineral based....well fuk me. i had to dig up a reciept. NVM lol

https://www.motul.com/us/en-US/products/oils-lubricants/90-pa?f%5Bapplication%5D=141&f%5Bquality%5D=23&f%5Brange%5D=25


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Yeah, I'm a big fan of doing exactly what the manufacturer recommends. So I'll run Valvoline 80w-90 rear and I think Redline MT90 up front.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

:beer::beer::thumbup::thumbup::wave:


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## [email protected] (Dec 18, 2009)

Gulfstream said:


> Yeah, seems like the rear was easier to get a hold of than the front. Still waiting for the front diff. I have ordered a CRC Performance standalone Haldex controller.


Just got one of these and yet to fit it


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## Sim (Jun 27, 2002)

Im finding it a bit expensive for just sending can messages.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

*Re: Seat Leon AWD PPT 2008cc PT5835R E85 build*



Sim said:


> Im finding it a bit expensive for just sending can messages.


What other options are there for standalone controllers?


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

*Seat Leon AWD PPT 2008cc PT5835R E85 build*

http://www.sqsracing.com/produkt/314:406:haldex-regulator-controler-valve. ??


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## Sim (Jun 27, 2002)

Gulfstream said:


> What other options are there for standalone controllers?


Still in the making. I need some months before i can introduce my solution.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

[email protected] Performance said:


> http://www.sqsracing.com/produkt/314:406:haldex-regulator-controler-valve. ??


That's a simple on/off switch and not tunable as CRC's solution.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Sim said:


> Still in the making. I need some months before i can introduce my solution.


Well, when I was looking there was only CRC as a realistic alternative. SQS on/off switch was never an option..


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## Sim (Jun 27, 2002)

Gulfstream said:


> Well, when I was looking there was only CRC as a realistic alternative. SQS on/off switch was never an option..


Keep an eye on this thread: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6887186-Looking-for-info-on-self-tuning-with-Nefmoto-TunerPro-etc


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Sim said:


> Keep an eye on this thread: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6887186-Looking-for-info-on-self-tuning-with-Nefmoto-TunerPro-etc


Tnx, but I've already gone with CRC. They know their **** :beer:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Btw. .. The jetta lives. ..

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> Btw. .. The jetta lives. ..
> 
> Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


Long live the Jedi :beer:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

:beer::beer:

k..your turn!!


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

So Arnold is busy building my new turbo. He has designed a new 7x7 blade 59mm billet wheel to fit the Garret 35R turbine, no idea how much it will flow but I think it will rock the socks off. Also as Bill suggested in another thread a metal cage is a good idea for racing applications so that's being worked on as well. :laugh:

Goodies:


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Arnold kicks ass:thumbup: Can't wait to see what this new turbo does for your setupopcorn:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

i need to get your compressor housing and the stg2 wheel for my car....faacckkk


dude..that is looking mighty SEXXYY!!:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::beer::beer::heart::heart::wave::wave:


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## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

One-Eight GTI said:


> Arnold kicks ass:thumbup: Can't wait to see what this new turbo does for your setupopcorn:


Couldn't have said it better myself :thumbup:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

So I'm changing two things, this turbo obviously and I'm adding a Catcam 3651 exhaust to replace my oem cam as far as the motor itself is concerned. I will try and advance the cam with cam wheel to see if I can get a little earlier spool while still have a climbing hp curve til redline.

psyched :laugh:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> Just got one of these and yet to fit it


I got mine here and looking at the wiring diagram. Did you figure out what lines kl. 15 and kl. 31 is?


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## badger5 (Nov 17, 2003)

looking good

:thumbup:


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## [email protected] (Dec 18, 2009)

Gulfstream said:


> I got mine here and looking at the wiring diagram. Did you figure out what lines kl. 15 and kl. 31 is?


You have one wire ( Yellow ) that goes to the handbrake switch 
One that goes to the 12v+ switch ( Black )
One that goes to ground ( Brown )
One to pin 43 on the ME7.5 K-line ( Green ) This is the diagnostics 
And one to the speed sensor on the transmission ( blue )


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> You have one wire ( Yellow ) that goes to the handbrake switch
> One that goes to the 12v+ switch ( Black )
> One that goes to ground ( Brown )
> One to pin 43 on the ME7.5 K-line ( Green ) This is the diagnostics
> And one to the speed sensor on the transmission ( blue )


Awesome tnx! Did you install yours already?


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## [email protected] (Dec 18, 2009)

Gulfstream said:


> Awesome tnx! Did you install yours already?



Not yet as i was waiting for a few more parts are the cables were a bit to short so i made some more and wanted to mount the screen in some way


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

That's right.. I also need to fabricate some sort of bracket and find a place to stick it. I wonder if we can change the modes while rolling. Say change from street to race while on the move.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

So sick

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

Vegeta Gti said:


> So sick
> 
> Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


X2


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Had to connect mine to 12V battery. Yup it works :laugh:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

:beer::beer::beer::beer::thumbup::thumbup:

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## [email protected] (Dec 18, 2009)

Gulfstream said:


> Had to connect mine to 12V battery. Yup it works :laugh:


Just to give people an idea on how it works


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

Pretty cool :beer:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

CRC confirmed you CAN change modes while driving and handbrake will not release rear axle in race mode.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

New bigger TB is bigger - check. 70 - 80mm


Tnx Cris :wave:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

What rear axle bushes do I need to upgrade in a haldex car?

Marcus?


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Delrion. . Do it.

I believe race tech performance or something similar (try search) had bushings for the entire rear end did your car. ... Don't quote me though lol

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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> What rear axle bushes do I need to upgrade in a haldex car?
> 
> Marcus?


- There is the trailing arm forward bushes (powerflex of whiteline)

- There are the hub rose Joints/bushes (OEM late rubber does well vs the original rose joints)

- There are the lateral links bushes (most likely will come upgraded with whatever adjustable links you get, I recommend the Madmax ones and I'm sure he'll take care of you )


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

powerflex..they make really good stuff


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

wow, i like what i have been reading. now lets see this thing breath some fire!


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Still waiting for some key parts like turbo, front diff and so on.. will try to get it done by first week in April :beer:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Started interior swap...


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

:thumbup::beer:

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> - There is the trailing arm forward bushes (powerflex of whiteline)
> 
> - There are the hub rose Joints/bushes (OEM late rubber does well vs the original rose joints)
> 
> - There are the lateral links bushes (most likely will come upgraded with whatever adjustable links you get, I recommend the Madmax ones and I'm sure he'll take care of you )


Missed this reply. Awesome, I'll go through everything when we install the rear torsen and look for sloppy bushings.

If you care to share toe, camber and caster for high speed circuit I'm all ears. Average speed around a 8min lap on the ring is 105mph. From memory I ran -1.7 camber, 7 deg caster(unchangable) and 0 toe.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

02M speed sensor. WHich wire feeds data to the Haldex standalone controller?

blue/white or black/white?


Brown is earth.


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## [email protected] (Dec 18, 2009)

[SUP][/SUP]


Gulfstream said:


> 02M speed sensor. WHich wire feeds data to the Haldex standalone controller?
> 
> blue/white or black/white?
> 
> ...


Not sure but I'm sure you'll find out before me as I've yet to fit mine


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> [SUP][/SUP]
> 
> Not sure but I'm sure you'll find out before me as I've yet to fit mine


Buddy say it's the blue/white one.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Been doing a little werk last couple days. Found some surface rust on the new Haldex car I treated temporary. It will get a complete respray when the build is finished. Testfitted the Haldex controller which I bolted inside a blue cage which I painted black and attached to the underside of the ash tray.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Fuk yes

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## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

Vegeta Gti said:


> Fuk yes
> 
> Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


x2


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## Budsdubbin (Jul 14, 2008)

Gulfstream said:


> Yeah, I'm a big fan of doing exactly what the manufacturer recommends. So I'll run Valvoline 80w-90 rear and I think Redline MT90 up front.


I heard mixed reviews of Redline MT90, GM syncromesh on the other hand is my go to for the o2m. :thumbup: Long rough road for this build. Hats off to ya man!


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Budsdubbin said:


> I heard mixed reviews of Redline MT90, GM syncromesh on the other hand is my go to for the o2m. :thumbup: Long rough road for this build. Hats off to ya man!


I called Peloquin to confirm I need to use mineral oil for the rear diff, to which he affirmed. I also said MT90 for the front diff and he said sure, that's fine. So, I'll try it for this season but have my eyes open and take samples. 

Build is long and tedious where many different aftermarket and oem parts need to work together in order to make it swing but I think it will be pretty neat in the end. Tapp said he would assist if my wideband FWD ECU pick up narrowband signals from the narrowband loom(VIN). Will keep the ABS and ESP modules from my wideband car in case there will be conflict there as well.

At least it's easier than what Graham is doing - cutting off the floor and basically building everything from the floor up. I just stuff already built parts into a haldex version of my car... perty much.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Placed the control nob inside ashtray well hidden from mot inspectors.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Fired up the built motor today after winter hibernation. 1680cc injectors flowing E85. Cold start after 6months.


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Is this in your awd car or your old one ?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

One-Eight GTI said:


> Is this in your awd car or your old one ?


This is the old one. Exterior and interior already ripped. Motor and ECU goes out on Monday then It's off to the scrappy.


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Dang. Still got a little work to do to get the awd one up and going. How long till race season for you


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Season already started brah. Last weekend they had the first trackday with the club. The motor will be honed and head will be planned to get CR close to 9.5:1 on Tuesday and then I just have to wait for the parts from Arnold.

:beer:


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Hopefully things go good and as planned so you can get the car on the track soon. Can't wait to see videos of this beast with the new turbo


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Cheers mate! As long as I get my parts in a week or so I'll get it running this month.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Are you upgrading injectors and fueling?


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Looking good man. You tall bastard

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

18T_BT said:


> Are you upgrading injectors and fueling?


Keeping the Bosch 1680cc's for now. Will see how they fair with the 35R turbo at 25psi. Ill carry over the Walbro 450lph pump and run a hotwire to it for now and see how the fuel pressure is at 25psi.



Vegeta Gti said:


> Looking good man. You tall bastard
> 
> Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


I think end result should be pretty fun yes :beer: 190cm of Norwegian armor in motion :wave:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Fuk yes! !

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Did some more werk today. Ripped the built motor out and started preparing it for hone and plan job. Moved over the better suspension linkages from the Cupra with tighter bushes, bearings as well as the Brembo's. Only real problem we met was the end link on the axles where opposite. Bolt on the Cupra and nut on the haldex. So we opened the end links and swapped then over as well. 









































We also pulled the wideband loom together with motor to see if we can make a short cut when we install it again.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

Such a smal IC for that amount of HP? That is wicked 
Nice job, keep on going, don't you stop now :laugh: :beer::beer::beer:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

HidRo said:


> Such a smal IC for that amount of HP? That is wicked
> Nice job, keep on going, don't you stop now :laugh: :beer::beer::beer:


Yeah, it's a Garret 550 core with PPT end tanks... I'll do a pressure loss test after the build and based on that test I might upgrade it.

Still got some way to go :laugh:

:beer:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> Missed this reply. Awesome, I'll go through everything when we install the rear torsen and look for sloppy bushings.
> 
> If you care to share toe, camber and caster for high speed circuit I'm all ears. Average speed around a 8min lap on the ring is 105mph. From memory I ran -1.7 camber, 7 deg caster(unchangable) and 0 toe.


Here is what I'd start with as a solid baseline:

-*Front*
As much negative static camber compensation as you can afford. -3 and up is at least needed to deal with the horrible camber curving that is intrinsic to our front geometry (McPherson with tons of camber loss pass the curve's apex). As a reference, I had to run up to -5 degree at some point to deal with the geometry's shortcomings in order to get even temperature spread across the front contact patch. Shoot for -3.5 static camber and take it from there.

Toe needs to be zeroed out in the front unless you have a huge tire budget. Zero toe will save tires and be a good enough performance compromise (to be noted that a bit of toe-out sharpens corner entry characteristics). 

Caster isn't adjustable without caster plates or other form of offset modification. But if you can add to the 7* that comes with the car, it's well worth the effort (more caster help with dynamic camber gain, therefore counteracts the natural geometric loss of camber past the sweet spot/range in the camber curve). 


-*Rear *
-1.3 to -1.5 is your static camber target. This compensation range will offer the best grip and tire wear by optimizing the dynamic percentage of contact patch used in acceleration and cornering. With your insane power, I'd suggest going for the higher end of the range at -1.5 camber to maximize exit traction (which will allow you to be more generous with throttle application exiting turns). 

Rear toe is critical with these multi-link/haldex setup. Get this right and the car will be a dream to drive fast, get this wrong and you'll be chasing the tail all day and have a miserable time taming it to be fast. You need at least 1/16" of toe-in in the back, and I go as far as 1/8" of toe in to turn me into a super hero. With static 1/8" toe-in, the rear is so planted and confidence-inspiring that you could pretty much stand on the throttle from apex-out and be able to manage it with a slight counter steer. 

I'm sure that you have some questions and I didn't want to get too much in details and overly technical in your build thread. Since you basically share platform with the AWD TT, you're welcome to join us here with any suspension/setup related question you may have in the discussion thread linked below. 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5197012-Let-s-talk-TT-suspension


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Tnx Marcus. Buddy of mine tested -3 camber and he told me high speed straight line breaking was compromised and suggested -2 as absolute maximum. I'll test a little different things and see how it goes. Slight toe in on the rear I've also heard makes for good stability.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Unlike most places you want to spend more time on the ring and I agree. . High Speed straight and mild corners might cause you to back of on the negative camber. 

Your cat is going to be fun to setup lol

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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> Tnx Marcus. Buddy of mine tested -3 camber and he told me high speed straight line breaking was compromised and suggested -2 as absolute maximum. I'll test a little different things and see how it goes. Slight toe in on the rear I've also heard makes for good stability.


Don't forget that the engine-braking, working to your advantage at stoping the car at high speed straights, has increased almost 100% with the coupling of the rear axle. With the rear engaged under braking, it's a hole new beast and can be foreign to most... so take general advice that aren't specific to your setup with a grain of salt. If a properly setup AWD MK4 (with coupled rear under braking) has trouble stopping and braking is "compromised" because of a mere -3 degree of camber, something else is out of whack.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Don't forget that the engine-braking, working to your advantage at stoping the car at high speed straights, has increased almost 100% with the coupling of the rear axle. With the rear engaged under braking, it's a hole new beast and can be foreign to most... so take general advice that aren't specific to your setup with a grain of salt. If a properly setup AWD MK4 (with coupled rear under braking) has trouble stopping and braking is "compromised" because of a mere -3 degree of camber, something else is out of whack.


Sure his car is a 500hp fwd weighing in at 1900lbs so it's not identical but still principle should be the same. I have to learn how to do car at track all over again with this car. I know it will handle completely different from my old fwd badger. 

If I start off with -2 camber and 0 toe front and -1.5 camber and minimal toe in rear I should be in the ballpark :heart:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

No holes in the pistons


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

My FX400 clutch has been around the block once or twice the last 3 years and show signs of wear. 7mm meat left on the ceramic 6-puck. Ordered a new 8-puck.

Pressure plate and flywheel in good shape still.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Did a flowtest on my Bosch 1700 injectors today. Didn't look very good at all. They flowed approx the same but spray pattern has changed, alot! Two where pretty much spraying straight at the back wall, which has left residue on the runners, one sprayed to the left and last almost straight down. SO this need to be fixed.

New injectors or can this be fixed?


Bosch 1700cc high imp


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

I just got some genesis 2000 from Arnold the other day and will be installing them soon and can let you know how they work out. Matt will be helping me with the tune. Not sure how long you can wait though


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

One-Eight GTI said:


> I just got some genesis 2000 from Arnold the other day and will be installing them soon and can let you know how they work out. Matt will be helping me with the tune. Not sure how long you can wait though


Do you know if Genesis injectors are based on Bosch ones? They look like they have the same nozzle.


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

That I don't know. I'm sure Quintin could tell you. They have different connectors though


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Nice thing is you actually get a bvc curve from Quintin so that helps with tuning


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Well, seems like new injectors is only way to go forward. Kinda disappointed by Bosch injectors which are "E85" compatible. Lasts only 1 season on E85.... 

E85 compatible :bs:


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

That really sucks. Not like injectors are cheap since you just had. 910s the other season than the 1700 and now have to replace them again Might have to step up to the genesis injectors. Can't wait to get a pump gas tune than go to dyno and get corn tune on these 2000cc


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

One-Eight GTI said:


> That really sucks. Not like injectors are cheap since you just had. 910s the other season than the 1700 and now have to replace them again Might have to step up to the genesis injectors. Can't wait to get a pump gas tune than go to dyno and get corn tune on these 2000cc


Genesis are modified Bosch injectors tho right? I think I'll get some SMP Lucas/Delphi injectors with a driver that's made for E85.

Will also remove the injectors ever few months and clean them... 

Fresh corn is good on the BBQ man :beer:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

I guess my 500awhp mkiv R I had means nothing when I was tracking that 4 years ago in time attack. 

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> I guess my 500awhp mkiv R I had means nothing when I was tracking that 4 years ago in time attack.
> 
> Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


Nice, do you have a build thread for that car?


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## [email protected] (Jan 13, 2005)

Gulfstream said:


> Genesis are modified Bosch injectors tho right?


Genesis injectors vary from part to part. None are "modified" anything. They're typically custom combination of parts from major injector manufacturers. Those include Bosch, Siemens, and Magneti-Marelli. The solenoid may come from one company, the atomizing tip from another, and the body from a third, etc. They're assembled by hand in the company's motorsports group vs. by robot because the production volumes are extremely low. 



> Will also remove the injectors ever few months and clean them...


This is extremely smart because e85 is very harsh stuff. It typically degrades fuel tank linings and fuel lines. The dissolved material can clog injectors, and is probably the reason why the injectors in this situation have partially clogged. So, it also makes sense to periodically flush the entire fuel system.




One-Eight GTI said:


> I just got some genesis 2000 from Arnold the other day and will be installing them soon and can let you know how they work out.


With that said, the Genesis II 1600 and 2000cc are e85-resistant. However, they _can_ and have been damaged by water in the fuel. (The 630cc and 1000cc are not bothered at all.) The problem is that e85 absorbs moisture from the air. This can corrode the internals and lock them up. So, if you must run e85, make sure that you buy only fresh stuff and burn it off immediately. Don't let it sit for weeks (especially in a partially filled tank). If you do that sort of thing, you can expect trouble over time. :thumbup:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> This is extremely smart because e85 is very harsh stuff. It typically degrades fuel tank linings and fuel lines. The dissolved material can clog injectors, and is probably the reason why the injectors in this situation have partially clogged. So, it also makes sense to periodically flush the entire fuel system.


The injectors where not clogged. No indications of any rubber deposits. The red deposits from the runner wall was from a longer period of spray from a nozzle which has changed it spray pattern. Two of the nozzles where completely clean, one was slighly red and last had red deposits. We cleaned them twice for 20min with the flowbench connected to wires and submerged in some liquid but it did nothing for the spray pattern. They still flow the same only they spray directly at the runner walls. 1 of them is still fine.

I'll go with a 160 lb Lucas injector low imp and run a driver so my ECU can use it. 

Clearly injectors running on E85 need to be cleaned every few months, specially if you race the car. I might fill up with normal gas and do some highway roadtrips once or twice per season.

That said, the Bosch CNG 1700cc injector should NOT be sold as E85 compatible, because it simply is not. 

:beer:


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

The point Scott is trying to make is the WATER that is absorbed by e85 is the culprit here. It rust out/damages the internals of both the 1600 and 2000cc. These injectors are e85 resistant. Just dont go leaving e85 is tanks for extended periods of time.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> These injectors are e85 resistant. .


- No they are NOT.

" Fuel Injectors and E85 Fuel


It has come to our attention that many customers are experiencing issues with some fuel injectors with the use of E85 Racing Fuels.

The problem came to our attention with the new Bosch ID2000 injectors, which were blocking up after an average of 8 hours use.

Our investigations came up with the following information

The ID2000 injectors (And other similar injectors) utilise a multi hole disc through which the fuel is sprayed through for fine atomisation
Due to this system, the additives (Anti corrosion inhibitors and dies) in the fuel, appear to be collecting on the injector side of this disc and eventually builds up and blocks the injector
This could be caused by either not enough heat inside the injector causing these additives to build up and not be broken down, or too much heat and forcing them to become gel like in there structure.

We recommend for all E85 users to instead utilise injectors which have a needle / pinto style output. This form of injector due to its mechanical system of spraying, is also self cleaning of these deposits and will have any issues with being blocked by any residue.

I've also heard E85 corrodes aluminium and other metals inside these Bosch injectors."

http://fuels.rpw.com.au/fuel-injectors-and-e85-fuel.html

Just one example, there are countless others.

If you read my comments earlier you'll see I have spoken to several other tuners who has many years of experience running, tuning and racing E85 turbo motors and they all speak with unified voice: Bosch CNG injectors are NOT approved for E85 use. You are the only one who say they are. Not even Bosch, who made these injectors claim they are compatible.

:thumbup:


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## [email protected] (Jan 13, 2005)

Gulfstream said:


> - No they are NOT.


Being e85 "resistant" and generally e85 *proof* are two different things. These injectors do not break down in the presence of gasoline or ethanol itself. Not all e85 formulas contain the additives that you speak of in good and accurate detail. Those additives _are_, indeed, problematic. So is the water that any/all e85 inevitably attracts when left in a car's gas tank or container over time.

From our perspective, 1600cc and 2000cc injectors are for drag cars. -not for street machines, for rally, or for road racing. The parts must be worked with accordingly. If so, they operate reliably over an extended period of time.



> Bosch CNG injectors are NOT approved for E85 use. You are the only one who say they are. Not even Bosch, who made these injectors claim they are compatible.


No, we're not saying that they're "approved". We're saying that they have their place in aggressive *race* cars. The pintle injectors certainly do hold up for longer in street cars. However, they're also very difficult to tune given their inferior atomization and slower response times. So long as fuel systems are flushed with gasoline (as all who fuel work with methanol are used to doing), these injectors serve very well.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> No, we're not saying that they're "approved". We're saying that they have their place in aggressive *race* cars. The pintle injectors certainly do hold up for longer in street cars. However, they're also very difficult to tune given their inferior atomization and slower response times. So long as fuel systems are flushed with gasoline (as all who fuel work with methanol are used to doing), these injectors serve very well.


I spoke with several tuners who all run what you call aggressive race cars and some 1000+ hp strip/show cars, and they ALL say this happen to the Bosch CNG injector. One also mentioned per Bosch information this natural gas injector was never designed to run more than continuous 50% duty(On natural Gas), which again don't add up to use in aggressive race cars. 

I have so many pro racers/tuners telling me they are not usable with E85, as well as Bosch themselves, so no they are NOT suitable for E85 use. At all! 

Lesson learnt from my side. Until someone makes a suitable 160lb + injector for E85 I'll run the optional Lucas injector. :beer:

No pune intended on your Genesis injectors. I have not tested them nor do I know how similar their design and material is to the CNG from Bosch :thumbup:


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## [email protected] (Jan 13, 2005)

Gulfstream said:


> I have so many pro racers/tuners telling me they are not usable with E85, as well as Bosch themselves, so no they are NOT suitable for E85 use. At all!


I'd love to see any data that backs this up because our experience is quite different. A racing weekend followed by system "pickling" even works with methanol which is far nastier stuff.



> Lesson learned from my side. Until someone makes a suitable 160lb + injector for E85 I'll run the optional Lucas injector. :beer:


Lucas injectors typically suffer from high fuel rail pressures. They get very slow and erratic vs. a pintle-type injector. I believe the best options on the market come from Moran Motorsports. Why would I share this information? -because it's solid *truth*. eace:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> I'd love to see any data that backs this up because our experience is quite different. A racing weekend followed by system "pickling" even works with methanol which is far nastier stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> Lucas injectors typically suffer from high fuel rail pressures. They get very slow and erratic vs. a pintle-type injector. I believe the best options on the market come from Moran Motorsports. Why would I share this information? -because it's solid *truth*. eace:


Those Moran Injectors look nice. They have same disc nozzle principle as Lucas? 

For data to back up I suggest you contact Bosch, Jonus Racing, KRB Trading, Civinco Tuning and me :wave:


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## [email protected] (Jan 13, 2005)

Gulfstream said:


> Those Moran Injectors look nice. They have same disc nozzle principle as Lucas?


I _think_ I remember them being the pintle-type. I *know* they work. I'd sell them, if VW guys weren't so damned cheap. :thumbup:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> I _think_ I remember them being the pintle-type. I *know* they work. I'd sell them, if VW guys weren't so damned cheap. :thumbup:


Ssssh, I think they are watching :laugh:


OK, I'll look into those. Tnx for the tip :thumbup:


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> The point Scott is trying to make is the WATER that is absorbed by e85 is the culprit here. It rust out/damages the internals of both the 1600 and 2000cc. These injectors are e85 resistant. Just dont go leaving e85 is tanks for extended periods of time.


Not to De-rail this thread but I kinda wish I would of known this before purchasing these Inj... Looks like I'll run E-85 on the dyno and every now and than but then have to switch back to a Pump file so I don't destroy them


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Holy **** injector learning crunch on the ****ter this morning. 

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> Holy **** injector learning crunch on the ****ter this morning.
> 
> Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


HaHA :laugh: I literally just installed these injectors 10 minutes ago.... Guess I'll just run E-85 on the dyno and every now and than... Then go back to pump gas file and turn boost down


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

I haven't had a issue, probably 10k on corn.

I'd imagine that if the injector is made for ethanol, daily driven, and the fuel system is properly maintained there won't be an issue.

Aaron mentioned years ago running his cars on gasoline before storage to prevent corrosion issues.


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Which inj are you running Dave


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Ev14 850cc


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Dave926 said:


> Ev14 850cc


Hmm. Very Interesting.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Dave926 said:


> I haven't had a issue, probably 10k on corn.
> 
> I'd imagine that if the injector is made for ethanol, daily driven, and the fuel system is properly maintained there won't be an issue.
> 
> Aaron mentioned years ago running his cars on gasoline before storage to prevent corrosion issues.


My problems with these injectors started at the end of last season with rough idle. I didn't link it to the injectors at the time because they where brand new.
Bosch 1700cc CNG injectors are made for Natural Gas and during this process I learnt a lot from racers over here in Scandinavia who race on corn. 

Will sure be vigilant with new injectors and clean them with regular gas often... 

The really suck part is my 1700cc's are still flowmatched, just the spray pattern is whack. Unusable.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Dave926 said:


> Ev14 850cc


How often do you race it on trackdays? 

I probably had like 20 trackdays last season and went through like 3 tanks of E85 every day on the track. I used a E85 fuel glass to check the correct Ethanol/Gas %.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Track day for me is every day, when I'm running late for work


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

So you only do highway miles.... No racing on track. The guys over here who do racing dropped these injectors for the same reason I have problems with now. Spray pattern change. They might be better suited for non racing applications... 


Arnold suggest another type of cleaning I'll try. If it works I'll be over the moon as I just had to out greens for a new clutch plate.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

http://m.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=423231&page=3&styleid=28


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Got the wiring and boost line for the Haldex Controller done today. Speed info is not working so I'll have to redo that.

Bad info from Radiopower which are injector specialists in Sweden regarding my Bosch CNG injectors. As they are designed for Natural Gas they are extremely sensitive for E85 and acids. Spray pattern in not possible to fix. Oh well...


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

That is a cool controller!


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Too bad you couldn't if waited a few more months as HPA motorsports is coming out with a touch screen controller for haldex generation one units. Does look pretty awesome though


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

One-Eight GTI said:


> Too bad you couldn't if waited a few more months as HPA motorsports is coming out with a touch screen controller for haldex generation one units. Does look pretty awesome though


When I decided to get one there where no other options beside this and an SQS manual switch. I tested race mode with permanent 50/50 lock and it works great. Very happy with it :thumbup:


----------



## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Yeah the HPA one just recently came. The one you have is already a proven unit that works. 

What are you getting for a driver box for the low impedance injectors your going to end up getting


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

One-Eight GTI said:


> Yeah the HPA one just recently came. The one you have is already a proven unit that works.
> 
> What are you getting for a driver box for the low impedance injectors your going to end up getting


Arnold found these bad boys. High imp and made for E85:

http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/black-ops-150lb-1600cc


----------



## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Damn. There cheaper than the genesis 2000 and good for E85. That's awesome. A lot cheaper to do this than going low imp and a resistor bix


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Yeah it's a good find. If I get these I'll still run regular gas every now and then to clean them.


----------



## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

1.8ms is borderline, even on e85


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Dave926 said:


> 1.8ms is borderline, even on e85


Do you know what minimum pulse width is on the Bosch 1700cc's? I never found a solid number on those.


----------



## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

I'm sure it varies a bit with pressure and voltage, but otherwise no.

Jettaman1.8ts genesis 2000s took a little work to idle good, I think his are down around 1.1 to 1.2ms. Good as in a relative term lol with those race cams.


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I run a standard 3bar FPR and the word on the street is that pulse width on the Bosch 1700cc's is around 1.6-1.8. Bosch 2200cc's are 1.7.

Funny thing is before they changed spray pattern they made engine purr like a kitty at idle with a pulse width of 1.2-1.3


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Opened motor and looked at the crank bearings. All look good except the center one which was badly worn. Should I measure the tolerance on the crank after this grinding?


----------



## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Picture of the piston tops?


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Dave926 said:


> Picture of the piston tops?


Page 5 in this thread. I can take better picture if you wanna look at something.


----------



## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Oops lol.

I was expecting them to be a lot cleaner on the tops than that.

I've seen amongst other brands where the tops look spotless


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Yeah, wonders of E85. Nasty stuff.


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Here you are INA. We had to drill out a new hole for the dip stick.


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Test 2 with the Haldex controller. Now I have a good speed signal:


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Yyyeesss

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## [email protected] (Dec 18, 2009)

Need to get my finger out and fit my Haldex controller.


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

It's quite easy once you get started. 6 hrs if you include cola breaks.


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

This Haldex controller is so win. In street mode it engages the rear on boost onset so it will already be locked by the time the power arrives. Really awesome.


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

*Sv: Seat Leon Cupra R AWD 2008cc PPT5935R E85 build*

One up front and one in the rear


----------



## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

^^^ nice! Didn't like the Wavetrac?


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I liked Wavetrac when it was working. It didn't survive when I stripped 4th and 5th gear. Suddenly Wavetrac lifetime warranty was no longer valid and I buy Peloquin next time :thumbup:


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)




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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

Gulfstream said:


> I liked Wavetrac when it was working. It didn't survive when I stripped 4th and 5th gear. Suddenly Wavetrac lifetime warranty was no longer valid and I buy Peloquin next time :thumbup:


Ah... a "lifetime" warranty... interested to hear how your car behaves with the rear diff :beer:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Fuk wavetrac.


Grip. ...You're getting a lot of it lol

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

i want some for my B7!


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Yes, I think corner handling will be fundamental different. Seeing how my Wavetrac was a goner I had 1 wheel drive through the corners on the ring. AWD with a locked Haldex, permanent AWD, I think it will rock the boat. Also fully independent rear suspension with H&R Clubsport RSS all around will contribute in the right direction. Rolling on the RSS now and they are not too hard as DD at all. :thumbup:


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## dane. (Nov 16, 2007)

Vegeta Gti said:


> Fuk wavetrac.
> 
> 
> Grip. ...You're getting a lot of it lol
> ...


Wah.

My built O2M has a Wavetrac. So did my O2J. Stop needlessly bashing them.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

dane. said:


> Wah.
> 
> My built O2M has a Wavetrac. So did my O2J. Stop needlessly bashing them.


No bashing here. They are good LSD's but they don't survive a stripped gear. At least mine didn't. Wavetrac offered to rebuild it at my cost, which is pointless as shipping back and forth over the pond + the rebuild would be as expensive as buying another new one.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

dane. said:


> Wah.
> 
> My built O2M has a Wavetrac. So did my O2J. Stop needlessly bashing them.


they suck..you spin a gear or blow something up. the diff is gone. where a peloquin/quaife would be fine. plus..Oisn't the first guy in these forums and on other platforms to be told to pound sand when a diff fails or gets damage for a gearbox failure. so not only a downside to having it be damaged by debris but the company is shafting people. simple search will surprise you.

i'd prefer a KAZ but i' poor.

so it's not needles bashing, so fuk off lol.:wave:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

PS. define "built" 02M? it has a clutch and diff? it's all dog box? helical? straight cut with forks and such upgraded?


----------



## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

16vHor has a Kaaz, worked really nice.

Completely transparent when driving normal, which is important when you don't have power steering


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

****. The. Fuk. Up. 

It isn't Meeks of there is a point of reference. Stop nut swinging then. 

I've had all peloquins in all manual offerings since mk1. So dissing them needlessly. 


You seriously rolled in here to start **** with me it seems. It's cute, but I believe you also did that in a couple of my other threads. ..Without any reasoning bit what seems to be. . Salty. 

Sorry O.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## [email protected] Motorsports (Sep 24, 2013)

My Peloquin's survived a 3rd gear stripping on my tdi tranny, even after I finished my run and travelled 80 miles :thumbup:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Have a feeling I'm not done stripping gears so peloquin ftw


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

*Sv: Seat Leon Cupra R AWD 2008cc PPT5935R E85 build*

Turbo compressor housing is done 

PPT5935R


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

I'm looking forward to seeing how this turbo performs. Might be my next turbo in a few years


----------



## badger5 (Nov 17, 2003)

Gulfstream said:


> Turbo compressor housing is done
> 
> PPT5935R


looks good
wonder how it compares with my precision 62 cold sided 35R

:thumbup:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Seeing how this compressor is 3mm smaller than the 62 I think it should be relative responsive. I have mild cams in 3651's as well.. Should be interesting.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> ...I'll still run regular gas every now and then to clean them.


I've been meaning to post and suggest this to you as I've run it with success over the years with E85 on several platforms. I've never had a single problem with the fuel breaking down. I run half a bottle every oil change and a full bottle on a full tank for storage over the winter. Good stuff, and can save you the hassle of having to flush the system with conventional fuel. :beer:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Thanks for the tip Marcus I might swap from SI-Alcohol additive from Redline to that and see how they do. From ppl I have talked with it was inevitable using CNG injectors and E85. Guaranteed failure. I have bought some fiveomotor black-ops 1600cc injectors with a single cone nozzle for this season but I won't take any chances with them. I'll clean them every few months. 

http://www.redlineoil.se/tillsatser/bransletillsatser/alkohol/si-alcohol

http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/black-ops-injectors/


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

I use the same stuff for my cars/bikes when they sit. We have a state minimum 15% ethanol here, but it's mostly sand and water. 

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Also possible we get dirty corn over here.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Head is being planned to get 9.5:1 CR and cylinder walls honed. Walls looked great according to expert. 


Thinking about just running a rear R32 ARB while I remove the front ARB. H&R RSS Clubsport coilovers feel great on the road :beer:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Awesome dude. I'm 9.5:1.... wanting 10:1 and 200 cc sooooo bad.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Never really noticed a significant difference when dropping compression on a couple engines, both via headspacers.

Maybe a little against the grain here, but I'd rather just run 8.0:1 or 8.5.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

My pants dyno told me I got better off boost response when I went from a 9:1 BAM smallport to a 9.5:1 AGU bigport. When I bored the AGU block I bought 9:1 Mahle 83mm pistons. Of course too many other things got changed so they are not really comparable. Still, now when I'll only run E85 and I'll take the injectors out of the car and have them cleaned on a regular basis instead of retuning for gas every now and then. I feel higher CR still will give me even better off boost response which would be nice now that I go for a real BT as well as complete cam set.

Ill report how it "feels"


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Got a call from the shop that measured my crankshaft today and they said it was bent. That's why my center bearing was badly worn. In fact they said there was marks on all the surfaces. However they managed to fix it and got it straight again so I could use the bearings with standard measurements I just bought. 

The crankshaft is a cast 2.0tfsi AZG.


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## Zowexx (Sep 23, 2013)

****, too much boost bro now you are really starting to make some progress! Keep it up!

_Posted via *Topify* on Android_


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I figure its the massive torque and long ass tdi gears that killed it. Surprised the machine shop managed to fix it. Didn't know that was possible. :beer:

Installed rear Peloquin today:

Old haldex filter differ from new filter:









Looking inside rear haldex housing where torsen diff goes:









Peloquin vs oem diff:









testing new bearings:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Outfuknstanding. Beautiful. 

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Wow that rear diff is huge compared to oem


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Gulfstream said:


> Got a call from the shop that measured my crankshaft today and they said it was bent. That's why my center bearing was badly worn. In fact they said there was marks on all the surfaces. However they managed to fix it and got it straight again so I could use the bearings with standard measurements I just bought.
> 
> The crankshaft is a cast 2.0tfsi AZG.


Obviously not a good thing, but at least there's one documented case of a partial failure of the cast cranks.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

One-Eight GTI said:


> Wow that rear diff is huge compared to oem


It's a solid piece of metal yes. Need to be considering the use I have in mind :laugh:


Dave926 said:


> Obviously not a good thing, but at least there's one documented case of a partial failure of the cast cranks.


I had it measured when I got it and it was straight as an arrow. So I bent it last year. Have a feeling it's my peaky torque curve at 6000rpms with the 3071 turbo. As well as the long tdi gears. Crankbending combo. 35R turbo won't have that peaky torque at low rpm and I no longer run tdi gears so I hope I wont see this again.

I'll get the details of how bent it was and how on earth they fixed it when I go to pick it up in a few days.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Does anyone know the torque bias ratio of the Peloquin? 

Sent fra min SM-T310 via Tapatalk


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Picked up the crankshaft today. It was bent 0.15mm / 0.0059inches and they set it straight with a pinging machine. Basically they knocked it straight using a specific machine. Amazing.. 

All good now :thumbup:


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## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

Gulfstream said:


> Picked up the crankshaft today. It was bent 0.15mm / 0.0059inches and they set it straight with a pinging machine. Basically they knocked it straight using a specific machine. Amazing..
> 
> All good now :thumbup:


That is pretty amazing, thumbs up to that shop :beer:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Gulfstream said:


> Does anyone know the torque bias ratio of the Peloquin?


Talked with Gary @ Peloquin today and he told me it depends on how sharp the bend you are going through. In a straight line after break-in TBR is around 2.5:1


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Gulfstream said:


> Does anyone know the torque bias ratio of the Peloquin?
> 
> Sent fra min SM-T310 via Tapatalk


I don't think they release this information but I remember someone saying it was 3:1


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Have you gotten or had a chance to try the new set of injectors yet?? Also do you recall what your IDC was on your 1680 bosch ones last dyno run??


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

One-Eight GTI said:


> Have you gotten or had a chance to try the new set of injectors yet?? Also do you recall what your IDC was on your 1680 bosch ones last dyno run??


Arnold is shipping the last wave today. Turbo, DP, injectors, clutchplate and so on. I'll bring the new injectors to a flowbench to test them and compare to my old Bosch 1680cc's. I no longer have the logs but I seem to remember around 80% IDC at 30psi using the MS x RPM / 1200 method. This was also with WMI engaged.


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Gulfstream said:


> Arnold is shipping the last wave today. Turbo, DP, injectors, clutchplate and so on. I'll bring the new injectors to a flowbench to test them and compare to my old Bosch 1680cc's. I no longer have the logs but I seem to remember around 80% IDC at 30psi using the MS x RPM / 1200 method. This was also with WMI engaged.


Thanks for the info :thumbup:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

:beer::beer::beer::thumbup::thumbup:


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## badger5 (Nov 17, 2003)

does the new turbo clear the transfer box?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I asked Arnold that question before I ordered if and he said no problems. I'm LHD in Sweden you know ;-) 

Sent fra min SM-T310 via Tapatalk


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

*Sv: Seat Leon Cupra R AWD 2008cc PPT5935R E85 build*

Did some work today. Need to utilize the few sunny days we have here north of the wall. Removed oem 16mm rear arb and replaced with 19mm R32 arb. New rotors front and back as well as Ferodo DS2500 pads.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Nice. Fresh bigger breaks. 

Winter is coming. 

#teamsnow

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Haha. Love the game if thrones references.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Vegeta Gti said:


> Nice. Fresh bigger breaks.
> 
> Winter is coming.
> 
> ...


LOVE LIVE JOFFERY!:laugh:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> LOVE LIVE JOFFERY!:laugh:


My money is on that chick with the dragons or the midget. I mean little-person. Or SNOW 

#teamsnow :wave:


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## cwyamz (Aug 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> My money is on that chick with the dragons or the midget. I mean little-person. Or SNOW
> 
> #teamsnow :wave:


Knowing George R. R. Martin, they'll all be dead soon.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

The head is now planned by 0.35mm. Not sure how to calculate the increase in compression.











GT3071R and PPT5935R:
Old compressor is 53mm and new is 59mm with extended tips:










Old turbin is 60mm and new is 68mm:











New FiveoMotorsports 1600cc injectors made for E85. They have a single cone spray and hopefully much better than the faulty Bosch 1680cc NGI-2 injectors. Will flowtest them on Wednesday and have a look:










Claims by Fiveomotorsport:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

fiveO makes awesome stuff.

that turbo is preettyyy:beer::beer::thumbup::heart::wave:


----------



## OBIWANKANNA974 (Feb 24, 2011)

Do you think you will have a lot more lag with this new turbo compared to your gt3071R?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> fiveO makes awesome stuff.
> 
> that turbo is preettyyy:beer::beer::thumbup::heart::wave:


Yeah I can't wait to start pushing this thing at the track :beer:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

OBIWANKANNA974 said:


> Do you think you will have a lot more lag with this new turbo compared to your gt3071R?


I'll dyno it when I map it in and we'll have the answer. As I add an exhaust cam I think there will be some hundred rpms lag compared to the extremely responsive 3071R w/ billet wheel. 

That said I move slightly away from a street setup to a race setup with these changes motivated by my backpressure I had over 6000rpm. I do many trackdays per year and stay over 6000rpm for long periods of time so this should be the ticket :thumbup:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Happy birthday man! !

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> Happy birthday man! !
> 
> Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


Tnx bud :beer:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I played around with numbers using the calculator on this site:

https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html

0.35mm planned head would increase compression ratio by some 0.26 points. So if I had 9:1 I'd now have 9,26:1.

Cool beans :beer:


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## [email protected] (Dec 18, 2009)

Gulfstream said:


> Test 2 with the Haldex controller. Now I have a good speed signal:



Was it the Blue/White or Black/White wire on the 02M speed sensor then?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> Was it the Blue/White or Black/White wire on the 02M speed sensor then?


Blue/white :thumbup:


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> Happy birthday man! !
> 
> Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


Yeah what Chris said, Happy Birthday.. I just turned 37 Yesterday.... Really looking forward to a dyno graph of your new setup.. Mostly the power curve on the new Turbo:thumbup:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Well, hbd man! Big 4-O here.. How that happened?  I'll post dyno as soon as it's done. I think top end will be terrific with this turbo.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Gulfstream said:


> I played around with numbers using the calculator on this site:
> 
> https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html
> 
> ...



Wouldn't it be 9.36:1 ?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

18T_BT said:


> Wouldn't it be 9.36:1 ?


Did you calculate different?

When I did the math I got 0.26points. 9.0:1 increased by 0.26 is 9.26:1.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Gulfstream said:


> Did you calculate different?
> 
> When I did the math I got 0.26points. 9.0:1 increased by 0.26 is 9.26:1.



Sorry, I read it as 9.1:1 my eyes deceived me. But, I played around with the calculator and got various numbers all reasonably close to yours but I am guessing at your piston volume top (not sure which ones you run) and without clay/putty not sure how to properly calculate the combustion chamber area.


For instance JE pistons uses .010 Deck height and .040 gasket thickness IIRC


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

18T_BT said:


> Sorry, I read it as 9.1:1 my eyes deceived me. But, I played around with the calculator and got various numbers all reasonably close to yours but I am guessing at your piston volume top (not sure which ones you run) and without clay/putty not sure how to properly calculate the combustion chamber area.
> 
> 
> For instance JE pistons uses .010 Deck height and .040 gasket thickness IIRC


I have Mahle 83mm 9:1 pistons. The combustion chamber is like 43cc so I just changed the other values to hit 9:1 then changed the values to compensate for the decked head.


----------



## vr6 nitrous (sweden) (Dec 18, 2002)

Awsome car and build!
4wd will do this beast to a new car!!


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

vr6 nitrous (sweden) said:


> Awsome car and build!
> 4wd will do this beast to a new car!!


Let's hope so Henke. Perhaps I will be able to keep up with you then :laugh:


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

*Sv: Seat Leon Cupra R AWD 2008cc PPT5935R E85 build*

Installed 3658 exhaust cam when we realised the cam chain tensioner had wear marks on it so we opted to change it before and not after it breaks.









Passed this thing on the road to the shop. Not something we see every day here in Sweden


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Camchain tensioner was pretty worn so I replaced it:









Free exhaust cam had stripped threads and we re-threaded it to M12 x 1.5 and torqued to 60nm. Lots of threadlock :









Sent from my SM-T900 using Tapatalk


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Billet T-stat housing is nice:









Fluidampr back on:


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Count the rollers :beer:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Get rid of that hydraulic tensioner.. Why risk ask that work and money on a known "fail when it wants to" piece of **** hardware? 

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> Get rid of that hydraulic tensioner.. Why risk ask that work and money on a known "fail when it wants to" piece of **** hardware?
> 
> Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


OEM hydraulic tensioner stays as it has a fail safe which keep cambelt semitense after it fails. Manual tensioner has no fail safe as I'm aware of. OEM tensioner already saved my ass twice on trackdays.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

i've neever seen an OEM hydro tensioner have a spring fail safe that worked. in my years at the dealer..it was fail..kill valves..sometimes pistons. etc.

i have never seen a manual tensioner fail without it being install issues, aka..people over tightening, reusing belts,etc.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Why wouldn't the Skoda's rally cars use a manual tensioner then? I am not sure I fully understand the argument as I've never had a hydrolic tensioner fail. I check it and if it's loose then I replace it. It gives you plenty of warning as the belt starts getting loser and loser. I put my finger on it every oil change just in case. The dealer problems usually aren't monitored and run the tensioners until they can't do anything else but completely let loose.
























Edit: to clarify which tensioner I am talking about.


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Well, I've had oem tensioner fail on me twice during trackdays and no damage whatsoever. What happens when a manual tensioner come undone? 

I'm sticking to what I know works and I see no reason why I should risk running a manual tensioner, yet.


----------



## badger5 (Nov 17, 2003)

Vegeta Gti said:


> i've neever seen an OEM hydro tensioner have a spring fail safe that worked. in my years at the dealer..it was fail..kill valves..sometimes pistons. etc.
> 
> i have never seen a manual tensioner fail without it being install issues, aka..people over tightening, reusing belts,etc.


same here.
when they die they just drop


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

badger5 said:


> same here.
> when they die they just drop


I have. Twice. 

But what happen when the manual tensioner come undone? There is no failsafe with the manual version right?

I have heard of several manual tensioner that have failed which lead to a complete rebuild. I have had oem fail twice and nothing happened... so I stick with oem unless theres some info I missed.


----------



## badger5 (Nov 17, 2003)

Gulfstream said:


> I have. Twice.
> 
> But what happen when the manual tensioner come undone? There is no failsafe with the manual version right?
> 
> I have heard of several manual tensioner that have failed which lead to a complete rebuild. I have had oem fail twice and nothing happened... so I stick with oem unless theres some info I missed.


aye. its worked for you, why change


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

badger5 said:


> aye. its worked for you, why change


Are you running a manual tensioner on your Ibiza?


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Piston ring end gap 0,4mm / 0,016"


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Did you flow test the old natural gas injectors vs the new five-0 units?


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Yes we did and at 1.5ms and 3000rpm we got a value on the fiveo at 55ml with a nice straight spray pattern and old NGI2's gave 58ml @ same conditions still spraying at the walls and everywhere except downwards. Should be ok to tune these ones. No droplets accumulate on the fiveo injectors which is good.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Gulfstream said:


> Yes we did and at 1.5ms and 3000rpm we got a value on the fiveo at 55ml with a nice straight spray pattern and old NGI2's gave 58ml @ same conditions still spraying at the walls and everywhere except downwards. Should be ok to tune these ones. No droplets accumulate on the fiveo injectors which is good.


What do you think caused failure in the old gas injectors


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

They are not compatible with E85


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Gulfstream said:


> They are not compatible with E85


What kind of symptoms were you having with the messed up injectors? Would the car run?


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Noticed idle tuning got worse and worse last year. Checked for leaks and couldn't figure it out until I pulled the SEM of and saw the red deposits on the runner walls. Injectors sprayed straight on the walls and big droplets would fall into the engine. 

Sent from my SM-T900 using Tapatalk


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

It ran but as you can imagine never 100%. I thought it was a result of the melted plug and stopped troubleshooting. 

Sent from my SM-T900 using Tapatalk


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

can't go wrong with five0motorsport ev14's. it's all custom and built for your application. 

put some in a buddies car a couple years ago


----------



## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Gulfstream said:


> I have. Twice. But what happen when the manual tensioner come undone? There is no failsafe with the manual version right?I have heard of several manual tensioner that have failed which lead to a complete rebuild. I have had oem fail twice and nothing happened... so I stick with oem unless theres some info I missed.


Bought the first batch of manual tensioners from a vortex vendor. Everything was fine and dandy until one day when the the tensioner roller failed. When I say failed I mean the wheel split in two. Th





















Some time around when this happened they introduced a spacer for the roller. The best part was they tried blaming over-tightening on the failure. If it failed due to over-tightening then why the spacer. I'm not engineer but am willing to bet my accounting degree on the fact that the offset of the roller to the belt was placing too much force on the roller and split it in two.So, yeah, not sure which is worse the manual tensioner supposedly not failing or the hydro tensioner which may or may not fail.


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Parts fall. Bottom line. You're complaining about that, yet I've been on the same tensioner for 6+ years and nearly 80k. Though you are correct the tension makes a difference, and I am not on an IE setup lol. It truly is all about proper tension, but parts fail... When. . Who knows. That's a fact. 

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

schwartzmagic said:


> Bought the first batch of manual tensioners from a vortex vendor. Everything was fine and dandy until one day when the the tensioner roller failed. When I say failed I mean the wheel split in two. Th
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Corresponds with my experience. When a manual tensioner fail its often catastrophic where when the hyd tensioner fail you MIGHT have time to save it if you listen to your engine. I'll hold off the manual tensioner setup until next year and see what the boys are saying.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Slow but sure moving in the right direction


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

Just came across these injectors - 1200cc with higher flow options on the way. Apparently e85 safe... http://www.deatschwerks.com/news/press-releases/new-ev14-1200cc-dv2-injectors


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

All_Euro said:


> Just came across these injectors - 1200cc with higher flow options on the way. Apparently e85 safe... http://www.deatschwerks.com/news/press-releases/new-ev14-1200cc-dv2-injectors


I wouldn't say safe. They are compatable. Which means they will clog like every other injector this style unless flushed frequently


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Those look nice. My five-o injectors are in place and ready for spraying. Today I discovered my Tapp cable stopped working so I'll have to send it to Canada before I can tune the car.... Amazing.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)




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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Bolted radiator and IC + lines to SEM today. Turbo has an ocean of space to the transferbox. :wave:


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

If it's just the cable that's bad you can buy a printer cable for cheap and it works fine. If it's your dongle than yeah send it to canada


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

One-Eight GTI said:


> If it's just the cable that's bad you can buy a printer cable for cheap and it works fine. If it's your dongle than yeah send it to canada


Dongle, is that what we call that box? Tapp just called the whole thing for "cable". But yeah, I have 3 new printercables with same result. The dongle is halfway to Canada now opcorn:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

fuk yes. closer and closer man!!:beer::beer::beer::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::wave::heart:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> fuk yes. closer and closer man!!:beer::beer::beer::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::wave::heart:


Yess sir! So close I can smell it opcorn:


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## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

Soooo ready to see this thing in action


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## [email protected] Motorsports (Sep 24, 2013)

That's some good stuff :thumbup:


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Is that cold pipe going to the intake manifold (with the MAP sensor) a custom piece or did you buy it?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Swapped keylock, instrument cluster, some vents and steering wheel. All that remains is clock the turbo, charge pipes from turbo to IC. Some water and oil. Ecu. 

Then it's ready for bed in driving. Will do fuel pump next week when it's time to boost.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

l88m22vette said:


> Is that cold pipe going to the intake manifold (with the MAP sensor) a custom piece or did you buy it?


It's custom made


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Damn


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

This one from Forge is pretty much the same:

http://www.forgemotorsport.com/content.asp?inc=product&cat=0016&product=FMMAPT


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Any problems using a wideband lambda sensor with a narrowband loom?


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## [email protected] (Dec 18, 2009)

Gulfstream said:


> Any problems using a wideband lambda sensor with a narrowband loom?


As long as you convert par of it then no problems

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...)-Narrowband-to-Wideband-Conversion-Done-Easy


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I bought the adapter kit from speedline... I think they're called that.


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## [email protected] (Dec 18, 2009)

as long as you follow the instructions then you will be fine

i've done mine but made my own adaptor


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

3" turbo back on a Haldex car is a tight squeeze but it fits with a little persuasion. 









Clocked the turbo ready for charge pipes.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

:beer::beer:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Some problems with the wideband conversion. The instructions call for pin 71 and 52. However when I count them pin 52 is empty and 71 has a purple wire not black and green which are the ones from the wideband lambda....


Anyone has some clearifying information? :banghead:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

ya, here you go:


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## [email protected] (Dec 18, 2009)

I hope this helps


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Awesome, thanks Andrew!


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

It's alive :beer::beer::beer:


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## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

Success!


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## [email protected] (Dec 18, 2009)

Final sorted out the wide band conversion.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Yup. Just follow instructions and dont complicate things. Just realized I have a new problem. My mechanic took the wrong generator and my car is now charging 19V............ So no bed in driving this weekend. 

:facepalm:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

In the process of cleaning up the engine bay. Still got waterlines to WG and a heatshield to do. Much better with chargepipes underneath the engine.


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## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

Nice job! Get it on the road already


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

HidRo said:


> Nice job! Get it on the road already


I drove it home, but alternator is charging 19V. So will have to change it before I do much more driving.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Yeeesss. Outfuknstanding


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## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:!!


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

So I changed the generator and now I have 14V. Been driving for about half a tank now and I'm very impressed with the new turbo so far. I see like 5psi at 3000rpm, 10psi at 3500rpm and open WG (17psi) by 4000rpm. 

From 4000 it just pulls harder and harder up to 8000rpm with no sign of dropoff like I had with the smaller 71R over 6500rpm. Nice :laugh:


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

i find it weird you had it dropping off over 6500..mine pulls to 8k nearly. i don't see the turbo falling off until 7700-ish really.


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## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

I dont think he means drop off literally. Just sustaining the torque up in the high rpm's. The powerband is shifted on this thing so he's feeling that


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

This is probably because I had an MBC and not a tunable EBC. My peaky torque curve was fun but over 6500 it started to drop and compared to the new turbo you really feel it. As I'm building this primarily for trackdays top end power is what I want and this new setup fits the glove.

Old setup:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Makes sense now. 
Yes. . Agreed.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Very excited for you Oistein, congrats :thumbup:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Cheers. Unfortunately I have to work for a few weeks and the car is parked. I hope Tapp return my dongle so I can start mapping.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Installed waterlines to WG and the Hallmann MBC:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Have some problems with the fans. Speedline conversion kit called for cutting the wire in pin 61 to avoid problems with the fans. Wel, that lead to no fans at all and the engine would get hot. So I welded pin 61 wire back in and what do you know, now the fans go on-off-on-off with the high speed fans every 2 seconds.... 

I think I need a standalone fan controller. Any ideas?


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Gulfstream said:


> Have some problems with the fans. Speedline conversion kit called for cutting the wire in pin 61 to avoid problems with the fans. Wel, that lead to no fans at all and the engine would get hot. So I welded pin 61 wire back in and what do you know, now the fans go on-off-on-off with the high speed fans every 2 seconds....
> 
> I think I need a standalone fan controller. Any ideas?


Why can't you run OEM fans? Aftermarket radiator?


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Try this:
jump two pins on the temp sensor on the radiator so the fans are "on"continuously at low or full speed (depending on what you prefer). If that works, and I don't see why it shouldn't, then place the circuit that you jumped on a toggle switch. That way you can at least manually operate the fans when needed. If you want more control, you can even incorporate a second two-wire temp sensor in the system and wire it into your jumped circuit (this will basically bypass the finicky control module, and avoid the need to spend money on a standalone module while having a fully functioning thermostatic fan setup). Hope this helps!


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Why can't you run OEM fans? Aftermarket radiator?


I do run oem fans and radiator. THis problem originate from my wideband ECU with narrowband loom


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Try this:
> jump two pins on the temp sensor on the radiator so the fans are "on"continuously at low or full speed (depending on what you prefer). If that works, and I don't see why it shouldn't, then place the circuit that you jumped on a toggle switch. That way you can at least manually operate the fans when needed. If you want more control, you can even incorporate a second two-wire temp sensor in the system and wire it into your jumped circuit (this will basically bypass the finicky control module, and avoid the need to spend money on a standalone module while having a fully functioning thermostatic fan setup). Hope this helps!


I know there is a simple thermostat that goes in the radiator with a simple on/off switch. If I run that to the high speed fans via a relay and 12V I should have at least protection above 92C. Water temp rises fast at idle in traffic stops. 

Tomorrow I'll refill my AC and see if that kick in the lowspeed fan. It should.


----------



## [email protected] (Dec 18, 2009)

I cut wire 61 to mine and didn't have any problems? before it was cut my fans kicked on and off all the time like yours 

Silly question but have you bleed the coolant system right? all air bubble out as if there is to much air the fans will not cut in, Fuses on top of battery?


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Gulfstream said:


> I do run oem fans and radiator. THis problem originate from my wideband ECU with narrowband loom


I also have narrowband loom on wideband ecu.

No fan issues. It's possible I could check pin 61 to see how it is wired I can't remember it's been so long


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> I also have narrowband loom on wideband ecu.
> 
> No fan issues. It's possible I could check pin 61 to see how it is wired I can't remember it's been so long


From the Speedline instructions we where to cut it IF there was a wire there, so probably not all narrowband looms have a wire there. 


Wish I knew what pin in the wideband ECU I should use instead...


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> I cut wire 61 to mine and didn't have any problems? before it was cut my fans kicked on and off all the time like yours
> 
> Silly question but have you bleed the coolant system right? all air bubble out as if there is to much air the fans will not cut in, Fuses on top of battery?


My mechanic bled everything alright... I'll check the fuses.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

All fuses are ok. I did AC service today and both fans kick on with the AC compressor. Fine, so I'll be able to work around this problem. 

:wave:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

:beer::beer::wave::wave::heart::heart::thumbup::thumbup:


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Grab a 3-row Valeo man, they're like $120USD and everyone is happy they did it after


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I see they are thicker. If I encounter cooling problems this year I'll do a swap. Staying mostly at high speed at high rpm I haven't seen high temperatures yet.


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Gulfstream said:


> Have some problems with the fans. Speedline conversion kit called for cutting the wire in pin 61 to avoid problems with the fans. Wel, that lead to no fans at all and the engine would get hot. So I welded pin 61 wire back in and what do you know, now the fans go on-off-on-off with the high speed fans every 2 seconds....
> 
> I think I need a standalone fan controller. Any ideas?


I had this exact issue on my NB to WB swap. I feel like it was pin 57 I had to remove from the ECU and they worked normally. I'll look at my old thread and post it up (if you haven't already solved it).


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

No, I haven't looked any further into this. You say you cut pin 61 and 57? 57 made the fans to back to normal?


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Some kind of new problem today. Car ran great for a few hrs then it wouldn't start, no action at all, just a ticking noise from some relay and the clock in the instrument cluster is flashing like its out of battery. Not even a turnover.

I have 12.8V from the battery. All fuses are ok. 

If it aint one thing, it's something else... :banghead:


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

How old is the battery?


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## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

If you jump start it, will it work fine?
Battery might not have the start amp that it needs.
Might have Voltage, but not the juice!
When you start, how low will it go? (multimeter in the battery, and ask someone to start it). Should drop like hell...


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

You guys are correct. The battery was dead. Weird thing is it showed no sighs of getting worse, It just dropped and gave zero Amps but 12.8V when not loaded. I got a new battery and car drives like normal again.

As it's the Yellowtop battery which is 3 years old I hope I can recharge it but I suspect it took some damage when I got the wrong generator which ran 19V for a day before I discovered it. 


At least ECU is not fried :beer:


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## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

Car should charge it when driving, so if it's not charging like that, I suspect that you have a FUBAR battery.
Charging battery outside of the car is usually only good when it was drained due to a light staying on, etc.

You said it ran great for hours, and then not start. Could be the battery dead, or the alternator is not working as expected. How much time went by between the running great and not starting?

PS- My suspicion is the battery fault, as I've had this exact same issue before on my daily.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

The other thing about batteries as you probably know, the cells in them die, so the static voltage may seem adequate but really you need to look at cranking voltage as that is where it will show a big difference. My battery had most of the lights work, but couldn't crank anything over and showed right around the voltage you see, but when I measured the cranking voltage it was like 6.5v and when installed the new battery it was like 9.2 during the crank cycle. Glad it was that simple. Sucks cause batteries aren't cheap.


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

HidRo said:


> Car should charge it when driving, so if it's not charging like that, I suspect that you have a FUBAR battery.
> Charging battery outside of the car is usually only good when it was drained due to a light staying on, etc.
> 
> You said it ran great for hours, and then not start. Could be the battery dead, or the alternator is not working as expected. How much time went by between the running great and not starting?
> ...


Well it's an Optima Yellowtop battery and with no charge it supply 12.8V. Car alternator delivers 14V so that's normal.

I tried to connect it to a car battery charger, but it wont take any charge. I'll try trickle charging using the 2nd battery connected in parallel.

The car started like clockwork with no signs of a bad battery 4 times earlier this day. 5th time it wouldn't even give any Amps at all.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Return it for a new one


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> Return it for a new one


3 years old


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

I returned mine at 4 years


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I'll have a word with the shop when they reopen after summer vacation.


----------



## gitman (May 13, 2004)

Gulfstream said:


> I'll have a word with the shop when they reopen after summer vacation.


socialists! jk


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

gitman said:


> socialists! jk


lol yeah - half the specialists shops in Sweden are "closed for summer" 

incredible


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Bastards lol


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Clearly I didn't learn anything from the failed Optima battery and bought another AGM battery. This one is made in USA tho, not Mexico like Optima.


----------



## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

It died as well?


----------



## gitman (May 13, 2004)

HidRo said:


> It died as well?


methinks this is the replacement.

what's the advantage of having an AGM battery?


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

gitman said:


> methinks this is the replacement.
> 
> what's the advantage of having an AGM battery?


Yes, this is the replacement. AGM can withstand vibrations from racing and deliver good crankingpower from a fairly light weight. It's in the car now and running sweet.


----------



## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

Ahhh, so it comes drained from factory or something. Didn't know that 
When will you have the car running full power, and on a track?  Videos, pictures, etc. Everyone loves it, and is waiting :laugh::beer::beer:


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

It didn't come drained, but I had my charger out when I tried to trickle charge my Optima so I just hooked it up to give it some go-juice before I bolted it in the car. 

I still have to do fuel pump setup and then I can crank it up. Oem Haldex pump in the car now so no more than WG boost and 5000rpms.



As soon as I have the boost up I'll post something here. Hopefully I can hit the Ring late August. :beer:


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)




----------



## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Lookin good homie


----------



## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

Looking so good 
Does the intake temps go skyhigh due to the intake pipe going over the exhaust mani?
I see my intake temps go over 60C, and the intake pipe is over the head, not the mani.

Looking forward to see the ring video


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Always fully charge a battery you but. They can easily be months old.


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

HidRo said:


> Looking so good
> Does the intake temps go skyhigh due to the intake pipe going over the exhaust mani?
> I see my intake temps go over 60C, and the intake pipe is over the head, not the mani.
> 
> Looking forward to see the ring video


I did a few pulls to 8k and did see like 38C, but this was only 1bar.


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> Always fully charge a battery you but. They can easily be months old.


Yes. I let it charge for a few hrs until current dropped below 1amps.


----------



## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

HidRo said:


> Looking so good
> Does the intake temps go skyhigh due to the intake pipe going over the exhaust mani?
> I see my intake temps go over 60C, and the intake pipe is over the head, not the mani.
> 
> Looking forward to see the ring video


This is why i ran my intake pipe passenger side and not over the manifold. My temps would go up as well.

Old pic. Pipe is now powdercoated black and using a much larger filter.


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Considering how much airflow that goes through the TIP then to be compressed and cooled again by IC I'm not positive how much time the air has to get heated by a hot TIP pipe. Who knows.... I have a cold air feed from the front bumper to the airfilter. 


Your setup looks totally pimp schwartzmagic :thumbup::beer::beer::beer:


----------



## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

How different will a much larger filter behave in this setup?
I have a filter that is maybe that size or smaller...

Also, the charge pipe, going over the manifold (hotside still), will do much arm?


----------



## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Gulfstream said:


> Considering how much airflow that goes through the TIP then to be compressed and cooled again by IC I'm not positive how much time the air has to get heated by a hot TIP pipe. Who knows.... I have a cold air feed from the front bumper to the airfilter.
> 
> 
> Your setup looks totally pimp schwartzmagic :thumbup::beer::beer::beer:


Yeah the airflow can't be "cooled" any cooler than ambient temps with air to air intercoolers, but it has to affect it somewhat. Would be cool to test the two different TIPs by logging ambient air temps, pre-intercooler and post to see how much a difference is made.

I know i was having some air temp issues before because i just had the filter on the compressor inlet and an ebay intercooler.

That 4" diameter TIP and a treadstone intercooler fixed that issue. I'm also going to enhance flow to the TIP by modifying a headlight to flow more cool air.

Thank you Sir 

I'll try finding a more recent pic.


----------



## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

schwartzmagic said:


> Yeah the airflow can't be "cooled" any cooler than ambient temps with air to air intercoolers, but it has to affect it somewhat. Would be cool to test the two different TIPs by logging ambient air temps, pre-intercooler and post to see how much a difference is made.
> 
> *I know i was having some air temp issues before because i just had the filter on the compressor inlet and an ebay intercooler.*
> 
> ...


That is exactly what I had when testing and going high to 60C.
I have not a intake pipe coming to the front, but the eBay IC is still there.


----------



## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

HidRo said:


> That is exactly what I had when testing and going high to 60C.
> I have not a intake pipe coming to the front, but the eBay IC is still there.


Get a better intercooler. Makes a big difference. Treadstone make a good affordable one or you can always hit up PagParts.


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

what is this filter thing you speak of?


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Hooked up the Walbro 450lph pump today intank and stripped it next to the oem pump. Sending feed from oem pump and return from fuelrail into the Walbro pump, but once we hooked it up and primed it the cirquitbraker popped then it ran really poorly. Worse than the oem pump... 

I'm thinking it took some damage from sitting in a tank of E85 for 8 months?


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Is it a walbro e85 version or just the regular 450 pump? The e85 versions are cheap as hell now. Try popping one of those in there


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

It's the E85 version. ordered a new one from Al.


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Just checked the fuel pump voltage. I have 14.2V at battery and 12.5V at the fuel pump contact at idle. That voltage will probably drop to sub 12V at loads. I think this contributes if already the Walbro fuel pump is corroded and performing sub standard.


I have a thick cable from battery to pump in my Cupra that I'll install and will consider Kenne Bell boost-a-pump which will give me a solid 17V solid while on load. These pumps respons really well to higher voltage.

Just another speedbump :wave:


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

What kind of surge tank are you using with the walbro 450?


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I'm using a surgetank Arnold made out of aluminium and attached it outside the oem pump and hooked it up in parallell. Oem pump runs the jet suction system and feed from it that used to go to fuel rail now goes into the 450 surgetank as well as return from fuel rail. Guessing the two pumps combined draw too much current. Need to up the Amps.

Also I suspect the 450 pump is corroded because it shorted the breaker when I primed it first time.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Gulfstream said:


> I'm using a surgetank Arnold made out of aluminium and attached it outside the oem pump and hooked it up in parallell. Oem pump runs the jet suction system and feed from it that used to go to fuel rail now goes into the 450 surgetank as well as return from fuel rail. Guessing the two pumps combined draw too much current. Need to up the Amps.
> 
> Also I suspect the 450 pump is corroded because it shorted the breaker when I primed it first time.


I would like to see pictures of that setup. I just switched from intank to the IE dual 044 surge in the engine bay. There are pros and cons to each :thumbup:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> I would like to see pictures of that setup. I just switched from intank to the IE dual 044 surge in the engine bay. There are pros and cons to each :thumbup:


Well, my fueltank don't look like yours as mine is the split haldex tank where the oem pump serves as jet suction and feed the fuel rail at the same time. I need to keep that pump in there to run the jet suction so I can use both tanks. My Walbro 450 is just attached on the outside of the oem surgetank inside the tank.


----------



## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

It probably looks the same as mine, as I too have that intank surge from Arnold and the 450 pump


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I'll run a 8 gauge wire rated 70Amps from + battery via 30Amp fuse and relay to Walbro pump tomorrow and see how it likes it.


----------



## brwmogazos (Oct 12, 2011)

I was thinking i could get away with just a straight swap of the APR fuel pump with the walbro 450 in my ibiza cupra Gulfstream, but i guess thats not the case right?

You need to feed the pump with new wiring and not by the oem wiring?

Seems the DW65V in tank pump is the only plug and play solution at the moment for ~500Hp rated setups.


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

brwmogazos said:


> I was thinking i could get away with just a straight swap of the APR fuel pump with the walbro 450 in my ibiza cupra Gulfstream, but i guess thats not the case right?
> 
> You need to feed the pump with new wiring and not by the oem wiring?
> 
> Seems the DW65V in tank pump is the only plug and play solution at the moment for ~500Hp rated setups.



No, the Walbro 450 pump delivered 597bhp with a 10 gauge wire in my last car so there's nothing wrong with the pump. It just seems like my pump didn't like being stored for 8 months inside a tank of olf E85. Who knew :laugh:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Just ran an 8 gauge wire to the pump and now I read 13.5V at idle at the pump and 14.2V at the battery. That's 1V more than oem wires could handle, and that was only at idle... imagine how much the loss is at loads. I'll try just to run the new 450 pump and check fuel pressure while I map it at 25 and 32psi before I shop the boost-a-pump.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

I'm needing a fuel pump upgrade.... so Def watching this as I Also need to do lines. 3 leaks this week. 

Ahh the life of a 30 year old car


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Calculated oem wires have a 11% drop in voltage at 15 amps from battery to pump, which is a lot. With my 8 gauge positive wire I ramped it from 12.5V to 13.5V at the pump. If I get close to 14V at the pump when I run a 8 gauge ground wire to battery I should be able to run with no boost-a-pump.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Nice! !


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Yeah. I'll hit the dyno on Thursday next week if the fuel pump can support 32psi.

Had some fun with Haldex in race mode on the beach in Denmark.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Video or you're lying


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Didn't record video. Will do it next time


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

In a few days I'll dyno this new setup. 

Power adders are:

Arnolds new superturbo PPT5935R. 63ar (wanted. 72ar but not possible yet) 
Catcam exhaust (3651) 
80mm TB 

Power taker:

No more WMI cooling for the intake

This being a Haldex gearbox and not true fwd I might not get the same reading in fwd mode as there are some components moving. 


Last setup with the 3071R and V2 wheel gave me incredible 480whp at 25psi and 597whp at 32psi. If I can replicate those numbers, perhaps add some grunt at higher rpms with less back pressure I'll file this under success. 

I'll use same Civinco dyno because it's repetitive and I can compare with last setup but once I'm done I'll go to a hub dyno just to compare BEFORE I melt plugs and whatnot this time.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Still using e85 for fuel? Those are some crazy numbers for a 3071


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

Gulfstream said:


> In a few days I'll dyno this new setup.



Looking forward to it :thumbup:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Excited for you! :thumbup:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Still on E85 yes. Oh, and I have new fiveO 1600cc injectors


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

What do you think Marcus? 25psi will be my trackday boost. Will this setup top 480fwhp?


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

I don't see why not! With the new components added, you should see a healthy increase over the old setup and clear 480 whp at ~25 psi.

BTW, one of the few pros of running Haldex AWD is that it's relatively low on parasitic drag (compared to conventional Quattro or other comparable AWD systems).


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I'll map it in fwd mode and do some comparison pulls in permanent awd mode so we can get the exact paracit drag from our Haldex. Only true if you can lock it 50/50 permanent.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Quartto is haldex now so you mean old mechanical quattro


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## Pisko (Jan 14, 2006)

Vegeta Gti said:


> Quartto is haldex now so you mean old mechanical quattro


You prob already know this,
but Quattro is still mechanical, only some transeverse aplications are called quattro since its a Audi Trademark. Audi 4motion would just be wrong.
My 04 A4 has Quattro with torsen diff, so I lock forward to this comperison with drivetrain loss


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Seems like Civinco stopped lending out their dyno to customers with own built cars and are now private only... Need to find another dyno. Dang.


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

Gulfstream said:


> Seems like Civinco stopped lending out their dyno to customers with own built cars and are now private only... Need to find another dyno. Dang.



That really sucks... hopefully you know of another dyno that reads close to that one so you can compare to your old setup 

Better yet... hopefully you're a bit of a smooth talker or charming or something and can arrange for one last dyno session


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Seems like they do private race teams only. Would be fun to compare it on the same dunno... Oh well, I'll just have to find another one that's repetitive.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Found a hubdyno instead. They can take 4wd and 2wd. Should be accurate within 1hp :thumbup:


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Thought hub dynos were a no no for 4wd cars?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

How so?

I know several hubdynos over here and never any problems with this...


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

More I think about your car, and the controller you have its probably less of an issue.

I know APR has a hub dyno, and tunes their stuff with the cars in 2wd mode. I know the local mustang dyno has a long belt that connects the front and rear rollers for situations like that


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Yeah, I plan to map it in FWD mode and just do two permanent 50/50 pulls for comparison.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Pisko said:


> You prob already know this,
> but Quattro is still mechanical, only some transeverse aplications are called quattro since its a Audi Trademark. Audi 4motion would just be wrong.
> My 04 A4 has Quattro with torsen diff, so I lock forward to this comperison with drivetrain loss


06 and up is all haldex.


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## gitman (May 13, 2004)

Vegeta Gti said:


> 06 and up is all haldex.


06 and up VAG vehicles are all haldex? or you mean just the VWs?


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## Pisko (Jan 14, 2006)

Vegeta Gti said:


> 06 and up is all haldex.


This is wrong, nothing has changed.
ALL Audi Quattro(and VW,Seat and Skodas) with transverse engine is 4 motion, and has always been. All Audis with longditudinal engines and Quattro is 100% mechanical drivetrain, and still is.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

The hubdyno shop told me they MIGHT have some time in 3 weeks time... So today I ran the 8 gauge ground wire from battery to fuel pump and fixed the heat shield in place. Also protected the silicone hoses running to the WG:


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

Gulfstream said:


> The hubdyno shop told me they MIGHT have some time in 3 weeks time... So today I ran the 8 gauge ground wire from battery to fuel pump and fixed the heat shield in place. Also protected the silicone hoses running to the WG:


Will the new heat shield stifle air flow thru the engine bay?



Pisko said:


> This is wrong, nothing has changed.
> ALL Audi Quattro(and VW,Seat and Skodas) with transverse engine is 4 motion, and has always been. All Audis with longditudinal engines and Quattro is 100% mechanical drivetrain, and still is.


VW 4-motion = Audi Quattro platform for platform

Both are superficial brand names for same technology and both can mean torsen and/or haldex. It all depends on which brand badge is on car. 

TT = Quattro = Haldex = 4-motion = R32
A4 = Quattro = torsen = 4-motion = Passat


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

elRey said:


> Will the new heat shield stifle air flow thru the engine bay?


The heatshield is meant to protect the head from the heat while racing. I'll open up an airway above the strut brace so air can go up and down across the turbo and not migrate to the other parts in the bay.


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## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

Gulfstream said:


> The heatshield is meant to protect the head from the heat while racing. I'll open up an airway above the strut brace so air can go up and down across the turbo and not migrate to the other parts in the bay.


Why not add a blanket for the turbo?
I did, and noticed a lot of less heat when opening the hood after parking. I can only imagine while pulling hard.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

HidRo said:


> Why not add a blanket for the turbo?
> I did, and noticed a lot of less heat when opening the hood after parking. I can only imagine while pulling hard.


I already have a turbo blanket and wrapped mani and DP. Trackdays racing makes for a very hot bay opcorn:


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## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

Ahh, roger that! :thumbup:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

A3,A1, Q5,TT are all haldex.

passat when longitudinal are torsen.....transverse they are haldex. though rare.

but..with audi looking to go to the smarter system..the torsen system is and has been removed on some race cars and corporate cars for testing. there are other models who had haldex and went torsen etc in testing and vice versa. with the newest version of the rear diff in final testing, we very well may see the torsen rear go away quickly.

regardless we are both wrong and right.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Painted heatshield with black high temperature paint. 

Tested once at 1.5bars but it lost fuel pressure at 6k.... So this ain't over yet.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

sexy


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Stock fuel rail?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Dave926 said:


> Stock fuel rail?


Yes, worked fine on the last setup with E85 and 600bhp. Been told E85 corrodes aluminum so sticking to the oem rail for now.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Gulfstream said:


> Yes, worked fine on the last setup with E85 and 600bhp. Been told E85 corrodes aluminum so sticking to the oem rail for now.


If the rail is hard anodized you shouldn't have problems


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> If the rail is hard anodized you shouldn't have problems


Not entirely true, I've had two differed hard-anodized ones erode badly on me when I had the Evo on E85. INA was working with me on a true Ethanol/Methanol conscious version for the 1.8t, but at some point I never heard anything from Issam.


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## [email protected] Motorsports (Sep 24, 2013)

Methanol is corrosive to Lead and Aluminum, depending on the grade.
316L Stainless or better yet, 317L Stainless would be the optimum choice.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

[email protected] Motorsports said:


> Methanol is corrosive to Lead and Aluminum, depending on the grade.
> 316L Stainless or better yet, 317L Stainless would be the optimum choice.


When will you guys be putting out one?


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## [email protected] Motorsports (Sep 24, 2013)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> When will you guys be putting out one?


Our fuel rails are all hard anodized which helps resist methanol corrosion.
We've been doing this since the late 90's :thumbup:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

[email protected] Motorsports said:


> Methanol is corrosive to Lead and Aluminum, depending on the grade.
> *316L Stainless or better yet, 317L Stainless would be the optimum choice*.





formerly silveratljetta said:


> When will you guys be putting out one?





[email protected] Motorsports said:


> Our fuel rails are all hard anodized which helps resist methanol corrosion.
> We've been doing this since the late 90's :thumbup:


Don, I think he's referring to a stainless rail since you mentioned the material being optimal for ethanol/methanol use


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## Pisko (Jan 14, 2006)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Don, I think he's referring to a stainless rail since you mentioned the material being optimal for ethanol/methanol use


I dont think there is a market for a 1K$ fuelrail to be honest


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## gitman (May 13, 2004)

Pisko said:


> I dont think there is a market for a 1K$ fuelrail to be honest


is that because of materials or because of the metalwork required?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I rewired the pumps today. Oem pump on oem wires and my walbro gets 8 gauge + and ground cables via relay. Tomorrow I'll get a new FPR in case that's bad too and try 1.5bars again. 

Tally Ho :wave:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

So I tested the wiring to the Walbro pump and it's solid. NO more loss of fuel pressure up to 28psi. Injector duty is 70% at 25-27psi. 

I know how it looks. I've been troubleshooting a lot:









Tigerseal works on everything:









Well pleased with the fuel supply I didn't want to sit and wait for a dyno spot in 3 weeks I mapped in a safe timing map and went to a trackday to test things out. I'll upload a video later on.

Engine worked perfect.. no problems at all. The only problem I had was the Haldex. It disconnected after driving 15mins even after driving in relative cold temps 15c and rain. I suspect it's overheated as I locked it 50/50 so I might have to keep it in street mode while on the track and not in Race mode.. Need to do some testing. Have anybody installed an oil cooler on the Haldex unit?

When the Haldex is locked permanent 50/50 there's no oil flow through the oiltemp sensor in the Haldex unit right? In this case it might not be a great idea to lock it 50/50 but instead 45/55.

Do you have any heating problems with your TT Marcus?


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## [email protected] Motorsports (Sep 24, 2013)

Yeah a Stainless Rail would significantly cost more than Aluminum, as well, it would weigh more.
Hard anodized rails is what you want to get if you are going to run E85.


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## styling5030 (Feb 13, 2009)

What fuel pump used in the basket?

Envoyé de mon HTC One en utilisant Tapatalk


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

:thumbup::thumbup:
Post the video


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

styling5030 said:


> What fuel pump used in the basket?
> 
> Envoyé de mon HTC One en utilisant Tapatalk


Walbro 450LPH E85


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

BR_337 said:


> :thumbup::thumbup:
> Post the video


Uploading now. It's got some drama :laugh:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

In the rain... could never have done this with FWD. Now I just need to make the Haldex work all the time:


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## gitman (May 13, 2004)

what, no mic in the engine bay this time?  

do you guys 24/7 access to that track? makes me jealous


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

gitman said:


> what, no mic in the engine bay this time?
> 
> do you guys 24/7 access to that track? makes me jealous


I'll stick the mic up the tailpipe if I can get the Haldex to work properly.. 

I'm a member of two motorsport clubs who both rent this track and 3 others in Norway so there are plenty of options. Rudskogen new outlay has become a really entertaining track.


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## stevemannn (Apr 17, 2008)

got a little scary there around the 45 second mark! glad you brought her home ok


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Haha..Awesome !
got on throttle little to early/ Aggressive. On that right hander huh?lol glad you missed the wall :thumbup:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

What's the problem with the haldex? Looks good and welcome to the addicting world of racing with AWD.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

stevemannn said:


> got a little scary there around the 45 second mark! glad you brought her home ok


The action is at 4:17 mark ic:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

BR_337 said:


> Haha..Awesome !
> got on throttle little to early/ Aggressive. On that right hander huh?lol glad you missed the wall :thumbup:


Yeah, I guess testing the Haldex in the wet is not optimal but better than NOT racing at all


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Gulfstream said:


> The action is at 4:17 mark ic:


Damn..jealous!
Can't wait to track mine next month.


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

So, isn't 50/50 locked haldex the same as burnt/fused haldex clutches? If so, how is this adventagous to road racing. Won't the inner rear wheel be fighting to rotate faster than it's travelling, thus reduce turning traction?

Don't ask how i know how a haldex with fused clutches feels turning in a tight radius :facepalm:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

elRey said:


> So, isn't 50/50 locked haldex the same as burnt/fused haldex clutches? If so, how is this adventagous to road racing. Won't the inner rear wheel be fighting to rotate faster than it's travelling, thus reduce turning traction?
> 
> Don't ask how i know how a haldex with fused clutches feels turning in a tight radius :facepalm:


That's true in a tight circle, not racing on a track.. but I might be wrong. I did some testing in race mode on the street and when I went into off-mode I felt no tension release from the drivetrain. 

I was thinking having the clutchplates in the Haldex locked 50/50 creates less heat then if they are slipping all the time? I could test them 45/55 to give them some slip... but when I test the Haldex now it opens at 10-15psi already. Something wong.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

From experience, you don't want to max your rear TQ transfer bias in slick conditions. In 60/40 (or worse) weight distributed cars, it's even more of a problem. You should save the 50/50 thing for totally dry and open tracks (tight stuff can become problematic as well with too much rear transfer for the reason mentioned by Dave).


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> From experience, you don't want to max your rear TQ transfer bias in slick conditions. In 60/40 (or worse) weight distributed cars, it's even more of a problem. You should save the 50/50 thing for totally dry and open tracks (tight stuff can become problematic as well with too much rear transfer for the reason mentioned by Dave).


How do you reccon durability on the multiplate clutches inside the Haldex unit?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Did some testing tonight and the CRC Haldex controller is disengaging the rear axle around 1 bar by resetting itself and returning to index page, even in OFF mode where the Haldex unit is fully open. So the culprit seems to be the controller. Emailing CRC Performance now.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> How do you reccon durability on the multiplate clutches inside the Haldex unit?


Bullet proof as far as I can tell, but provided that you:

- keep a strict fluid/filter maintenance program (using the much affordable Volvo bottled haldex fluid will save you a lot in the long run).

- don't stress the system by having it constantly supplying maximum rear TQ 

I have my buddy making similar power as you do with no issues. I personally haven't experienced any problems with the haldex in my car too. I don't make the kind of power you guys do, but I beat the hell out of it with some serious grip from fat race tires.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Bullet proof as far as I can tell, but provided that you:
> 
> - keep a strict fluid/filter maintenance program (using the much affordable Volvo bottled haldex fluid will save you a lot in the long run).
> 
> ...


So you think it's not recommended for the Haldex to run, say Nürburgring which takes some 8min with a permanent 50/50?

Does your buddy also trackday his ar or is it only quarters?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

One guy had a little mishap with his Audi S2 later on the day. Brake fluid boiled most probably because of his rear LSD got him stranded with red glowing rotors previous weekend.


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Damn. That sucks!


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## [email protected] (Dec 18, 2009)

Which CRC controller did you get as there are two types

One up to 2 bar and then a 5 bar. I got the 5 bar one as I plan to run over 2 bar of boost.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> Which CRC controller did you get as there are two types
> 
> One up to 2 bar and then a 5 bar. I got the 5 bar one as I plan to run over 2 bar of boost.


I got one thats rated at 2.5bar. But it opens at 1 bar.


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## [email protected] (Dec 18, 2009)

Gulfstream said:


> I got one thats rated at 2.5bar. But it opens at 1 bar.


Could be a faulty pressure sensor inside the ECU


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> Could be a faulty pressure sensor inside the ECU


If with ECU you mean the CRC controller then maybe. When I use it in OFF mode you can see boost and once I hit around 1 bar boost it reset itself. 

I talked with CRC Performance in Germany today and they agree to return it and send me the 5 bar version at my cost. Fine. I only need it to work..


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> I have my buddy making similar power as you do with no issues. I personally haven't experienced any problems with the haldex in my car too. I don't make the kind of power you guys do, but I beat the hell out of it with some serious grip from fat race tires.



Are you on a road course for 20 min runs, I thought you mostly autoX and those runs are significantly less track time?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)




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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

18T_BT said:


> Are you on a road course for 20 min runs, I thought you mostly autoX and those runs are significantly less track time?


Yes, I have been on a road course with the car (it happened less and less as the car became more developed and fast). The reason my car which is a roadster have not seen equal amount of circuit action is because most sanctioning bodies give that type of cars a hard time, and also me not trusting myself with the way I push things to keep chancing it without proper roll protection.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Yes, I have been on a road course with the car (it happened less and less as the car became more developed and fast). The reason my car which is a roadster have not seen equal amount of circuit action is because most sanctioning bodies give that type of cars a hard time, and also me not trusting myself with the way I push things to keep chancing it without proper roll protection.


Did you ever change the pre charge pump?


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

No, the pre-charge pump is still the original factory one and has never been changed. The only thing I have done extra to the haldex is increase the service interval to reflect the abusive use (the wide and sticky race tires shock-loads the system a lot more than when I have normal street wheels/tires on). As a result I have been anal about changing the fluid and filter very often during racing season.


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## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

I love this build! Spool sounds like it wakes up pretty quickly...how do you like it compared to the PPT 3071R?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Honestly seeing how responsive this turbo is with 2L and how much more power of makes over 6k I should have just started with this turbo. Difference in spool is neglectible s well as transient spool. I still have 4000-8000+ powerband. Just need to dyno it to map in timing and cams.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

May be my next turbo. ...


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## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

I can actually modify your existing 3071r (if in good condition) to the 35R frame. If its a bit tired or you want to start from new, we can send her in for the bearing program and then modify after.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

My CRC Haldex controller is in Germany now and they will send me a new 5bar controller in return. I suspect the culprit is in fact the plugs I have been running as they where non-resistored NGK raceplugs R5671A-9. I got the resistored version called R7436-9 and I have to add sometimes with the old plugs my radar detector would go off about the same time as the Haldex controller would reset and now with the new resistored plugs it never goes off. CRC told me when I was troubleshooting I had to remove any bluetooth sender in the OBD2 port as it might interefer with the Haldex canbus signals, so I hope these new plugs will sort it. Time will tell.



Status per today:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

[email protected] said:


> I can actually modify your existing 3071r (if in good condition) to the 35R frame. If its a bit tired or you want to start from new, we can send her in for the bearing program and then modify after.


 that sounds like a plan. Stroke and go that route. Hmmmm


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Still waiting for my CRC controller and the dyno slot I went for a drive. Tested 33psi in 4th gear on a map I wrote for 25psi. Just need to add some fuel. Have a look at google docs and let me know what you see:


Looks like I have 20psi by 4000rpm and that's not half bad on a billet 35R with catcams... 

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Yfu4-Rp8mYnopGXBqvnvsR-I-wxr5tzHuGy1IezXFeE/edit?usp=sharing


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Gulfstream said:


> In the rain... could never have done this with FWD. Now I just need to make the Haldex work all the time:


awd gotta be fun:thumbup::thumbup:

maybe will be my next project to go awd 

i had a moment of fun at 6:04 too lol 
@15lbs only doh.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

It's a LOT better having oversteer going out of the corners yes :beer:


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Gulfstream said:


> Looks like I have 20psi by 4000rpm and that's not half bad on a billet 35R


niiiiice


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

So I was testing a GPS app driving around in a parking lot today when the motor went REALLY rough and smelled like fuel. Stopped and looked under the hood. One of the bolts had stripped itself out of the SEM mani and injector nr 1 was basically spraying all over the engine bay. Also the gasket had broken off and most of it went through the engine... the aluminium quality of SEM seems to be really low density tbo... fuuuuu


































Wonder if cyl 1 took any damage from chewing most of the gasket.... :banghead:


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Able to helicoil those at all? I noticed a similar problem


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## gitman (May 13, 2004)

wow! hopefully no serious damage was done to the rest of the motor. what do you plan to do with the manifold, fix it? or do you have a warranty option?


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## [email protected] Motorsports (Sep 24, 2013)

This is unfortunate, 1st time I've heard it happen to one of our intakes, none-the-less it happened. I've only seen it happen on stock intake manifolds. The material is A356-T6, heat treated. My suggestion is to Helicoil it.

As for the cylinder, I'm sure it's fine. The gasket material shriveled up during combustion and blown out of the exhaust.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

happen to me last year. i posted about it....surprised i didn't go up in flames. had it threaded much larger lol


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I'll do a compression check today and see how it goes in cyl 1. If this happened while racing I'd be toast by now. Stuff like this just can't fail.... I'll rethread it one size up.


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## [email protected] (Dec 18, 2009)

Gulfstream said:


> I'll do a compression check today and see how it goes in cyl 1. If this happened while racing I'd be toast by now. Stuff like this just can't fail.... I'll rethread it one size up.


Retap both of them


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> Retap both of them


Yeah, for sure. Btw, it seems to be my racing plugs with no resistor that interfered with my CRC controller . I got some NGK race plugs with resistors that I'll test once I have the controller back from Germany. CRC told me an OBD blutooth controller could interfer with the canbus signals, if that's the case so can non-resistored raceplugs.


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## [email protected] (Dec 18, 2009)

Gulfstream said:


> Yeah, for sure. Btw, it seems to be my racing plugs with no resistor that interfered with my CRC controller . I got some NGK race plugs with resistors that I'll test once I have the controller back from Germany. CRC told me an OBD blutooth controller could interfer with the canbus signals, if that's the case so can non-resistored raceplugs.


I run Bosch side fire plugs

Would a OBD liquid garage have the same problem?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

He spoke in general Any OBD tools would interfer with the signals. So I can't run with my torque Pro app that I like so much.


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## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

Time Sert > Helicoil!

I'd feel a lot better if there was a carbon steel insert holding my stuff down vs. a crappy springy thing or the same soft aluminum that has already failed on you. 

I just had a similar problem with my little two stroke cylinder...snapped exhaust studs. Stepped up from straight M6 to M8 Time Serts with M8-to-M6 heat treated automotive studs










Either way, good luck :thumbup:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I'll rethread it M8 and use blue locktite.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Gulfstream said:


> I'll rethread it M8 and use blue locktite.


Why choose to rethread the aluminum casting instead of using a stronger steel threaded insert


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## gitman (May 13, 2004)

http://www.timesert.com/html/mtrcsert.html


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Why choose to rethread the aluminum casting instead of using a stronger steel threaded insert


Because I have only bad experience with helicoils.


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## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

Gulfstream said:


> Because I have only bad experience with helicoils.


Yeah, not to beat the subject I death, but Time Serts are not Helicoils. They are superior in every way...check em out. 

M8 from an M6 in the cast aluminum will probably be ok though. If you don't want it to happen again I highly suggest checking out Time Sert


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

suffocatemymind said:


> Yeah, not to beat the subject I death, but Time Serts are not Helicoils. They are superior in every way...check em out.
> 
> M8 from an M6 in the cast aluminum will probably be ok though. If you don't want it to happen again I highly suggest checking out Time Sert


Copy I'll check them out and discuss with my mech. I think he wants to rethread and use blue locktite. We'll see... Tnx :beer:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

timeserts are awesome O


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

This is my flowmatched five o injectors after a few months use. Not so flowmatched anymore. Seems like it's really hard to find quality products these days...


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

i think you need to use a stabilizer in your fuel when you know you're going to have it sit for awhile. instead of jsut stopping. or always use some. even just HEET will work fine, pour in.go for a spin and then it would help a little. perhaps your tank and lines are filthy as well.

sucks brother.


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## gitman (May 13, 2004)

is that what i think it is - the total amount of fuel sprayed through each injector over the same time duration and base pressure? what causes it to vary like that?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I already use si alcohol from redline. This flowtest is at 3ms and 2000rpm so the differences would be greater at 1.5ms. 3bar fuel pressure. When I bought them they where within 2% and idle smooth.... Spray pattern is same as opposed to my Bosch 1680cc where spray pattern is whack but those are still flowmatched. 


So... What's next? Deka 2200cc? I hear they are good... Bit pricy though.


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

New camber Plates from Poland. Looks alright.


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Been tempted to give the Silver Project plates a try myself, let me know how they hold up. They definetely are cheap knockoffs of the Groundcontrol units (single bearing, and lower quality material/hardware), but for the price if they last more than one racing season, they are worth the investment.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

They where cheap for sure and I don't see what could possibly go wrong ;-) 

Is there a diy guide for these things?


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Gulfstream said:


> I already use si alcohol from redline. This flowtest is at 3ms and 2000rpm so the differences would be greater at 1.5ms. 3bar fuel pressure. When I bought them they where within 2% and idle smooth.... Spray pattern is same as opposed to my Bosch 1680cc where spray pattern is whack but those are still flowmatched.
> 
> 
> So... What's next? Deka 2200cc? I hear they are good... Bit pricy though.


Hey bud... sorry to see your injector issues. Had a question why not go with injector dynamic injectors? Or talk to mike p about the injectors he's using.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> They where cheap for sure and *I don't see what could possibly go wrong* ;-)


Having one single bearing carrying the swinging weight of the front end (McPerson design has a weight bearing upper strut mount), but on top of it, having to also support lateral rotation loads from the turning wheel. GroundControl did just that initially, but quickly realized a high bearing failure rate with people that track the cars. The proper way to design these is to have more than one bearing - one carrying the weight, and one in charge of steering rotation. 

With a single bearing design, like these, there is uneven load distribution and exponentially reduced life. Hypothetically, you'd have to have a heavy-duty single bearing to have half the longevity of a multiple bearing design. 

I'll look and post a DIY for you later, but basically these are simple one-unit that replace both the factory rubber bushing (the one carrying the weight), and the inner encased bearing (in charge of the steering rotation in the OEM design).


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I read that with this install you reuse the oem rubber bushing which takes the high turning loads. Let me see if I find that post on Audi forum..

edit: THis Prawn guy installed these camber plates and used the oem rubber:

http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/prawn-and-bigals-a3-track-car.109831/page-77


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

schwartzmagic said:


> Hey bud... sorry to see your injector issues. Had a question why not go with injector dynamic injectors? Or talk to mike p about the injectors he's using.


ID's use Bosch nozzles.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

you alive homie?


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Yup. Dyno guy never came back to me so I'll source another one. I got new Haldex Controller installed (5bar) and is working well. I'll probably get a. 82ar housing for the turbo when I go to NY in December. 

Apart from that not alot of støff going on brah.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

So why aren't you here cruising?


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> So why aren't you here cruising?


Currently eastbound and truckin' :wave:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Does maestro have a correction for lean hot starts? 

When I map idle to +/-3% O2 correction and go for a longer drive, park it in a garage and start it within 5-10min it's running way lean at idle. Once I get IAT down to the levels I mapped in idle, correction is ok again.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

weeee..maestro

your car sits soooo much man. i'm beginning to wonder if it has begun to show it's head in some of your issues.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> weeee..maestro
> 
> your car sits soooo much man. i'm beginning to wonder if it has begun to show it's head in some of your issues.


Driving it every day and still dig it. Just ironing out some minor issues. 

I do see the need for a standalone tho.. and will go that way when I make this into a race car only and pull the plates off it. :thumbup:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Dooiittttt


----------



## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Gulfstream said:


> Does maestro have a correction for lean hot starts?
> 
> When I map idle to +/-3% O2 correction and go for a longer drive, park it in a garage and start it within 5-10min it's running way lean at idle. Once I get IAT down to the levels I mapped in idle, correction is ok again.


I'm sure there is a correction map to compensate for this.

Let me see what I can find


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Dave926 said:


> I'm sure there is a correction map to compensate for this.
> 
> Let me see what I can find


I've looked but no dice sos far. Unable to correct for lean high IAT starts. Only thing I see is playing with injector duty at rpm and flow at TB angle.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Could also be the fact that without a MAF and the ecu relying on a synthetic signal is causing that


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Yeah, I run mafless. If only Maestro had an IAT correction graph...


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Making some adjustments to my setup now with new injectors from Bosch/ Asnu 1650cc and bigger turbine housing. 63 to 82.



http://www.asnuinjectors.co.uk/news1.htm


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Powwwaaaaaaa


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Yeah, and less backpressure. I had 15psi by 4k with the .63 housing. Let's see now how this will play out.


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

:thumbup:opcorn:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Winter E85 is clear and not pink but my cheap ass tester say it's still 85% Ethanol.... 

I ordered a better tester.


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## un1ko (Apr 6, 2004)

How does E85 run during the winter? I heard mixed information


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

un1ko said:


> How does E85 run during the winter? I heard mixed information


If temp drop below -5c you might need a few attempts to start it but apart from that I see little difference. Naturally I don't race it on winter mix. LTFT will correct for the small difference in ethanol content.


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## Sim (Jun 27, 2002)

un1ko said:


> How does E85 run during the winter? I heard mixed information


----------



## un1ko (Apr 6, 2004)

Gulfstream said:


> If temp drop below -5c you might need a few attempts to start it but apart from that I see little difference. Naturally I don't race it on winter mix. LTFT will correct for the small difference in ethanol content.


Oh ok. I thought it'd freeze, since here in Chicago it gets pretty cold. Like the other day we had -18c. Sorry but what do you mean winter mix?





Sim said:


>



Cool! Maybe I'll switch to E85 sooner. I was going to wait until spring time.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

un1ko said:


> Oh ok. I thought it'd freeze, since here in Chicago it gets pretty cold. Like the other day we had -18c. Sorry but what do you mean winter mix?
> Cool! Maybe I'll switch to E85 sooner. I was going to wait until spring time.


Winter mix is E75 over here in Europe. I didn't know it had a clear color as opposed to the pink E85 we have for summer. Looks like the car in the video is pretty much stock. BT mafless like me might be a little bit trickier, but not impossible. I'll post a cold start with mine as well next time we have -5c.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Now that I'm in cali. .. considering e85....


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> Now that I'm in cali. .. considering e85....


Nothing to consider. DO it! :beer:


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## un1ko (Apr 6, 2004)

Gulfstream said:


> Winter mix is E75 over here in Europe. I didn't know it had a clear color as opposed to the pink E85 we have for summer. Looks like the car in the video is pretty much stock. BT mafless like me might be a little bit trickier, but not impossible. I'll post a cold start with mine as well next time we have -5c.


Yeah that'd be cool if you post a video. I will check here to see what they do with E85 during the winter. I'd imagine we do the same thing



Vegeta Gti said:


> Now that I'm in cali. .. considering e85....


I was going to say lucky you moving to cali, but you were in Hawaii. So can't say it. lol! :thumbup:


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## Sim (Jun 27, 2002)

Gulfstream said:


> Looks like the car in the video is pretty much stock. BT mafless like me might be a little bit trickier, but not impossible. I'll post a cold start with mine as well next time we have -5c.


Not stock, but not *that* heavily modified.
The 630cc EV14s seem to do a great job, which arent suitable for serious power (especially on E85) - i admit.
MAFfed or MAFless does not really make any difference here (car cranks and starts up on a MAFless basis). If i would disconnect MAF it would fire up just the same.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

un1ko said:


> Sorry but what do you mean winter mix?





un1ko said:


> I will check here to see what they do with E85 during the winter. I'd imagine we do the same thing...


The following breakdown is copied and pasted from a thread I made a while ago about E85 in the MK1 TT forum (Good read if you're thinking about doing the conversion):
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5271998-Madmax-E85-tuning-notes




.... seasonal State by State breakdown of ethanol blends. It may only show minimum requirements, but gives a good picture of what you get as a worst case scenario. I would not use this as a reason to stop regular alcohol content testing but it's a good baseline. I thought it would be a good contribution to this thread! :beer:

Summer Blend: Class 1 (min 79% ethanol) 
Spring/Fall Blend: Class 2 (min 74% ethanol) 
Winter Blend: Class 3 (min 70% ethanol) 
State Fuel Region Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec 


Alabama 2 2 2 2 2/1 1 1 1 1 1/2 2 2 
Alaska Southern Region 3 3 3 3 3/2 2/1 1 1/2 2/3 3 3 3 
Alaska South Mainland 3 3 3 3 3/2 2/1 1/2 2 2/3 3 3 3 
Arizona North of 34 latitude 3 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1 1 1/2 2/3 3 3 
Arizona South of 34 latitude 2 2 2 2/1 1 1 1 1 1 1/2 2 2 
Arkansas 3 3 3/2 2/1 1 1 1 1 1/2 2 2/3 3 
California North Coast 2 2 2 2 2 2/1 1 1 1 1/2 2 2 
California South Coast 2 2 2 2 2/1 1 1 1 1 1/2 2 2 
California Southeast 3 3/2 2 2 2/1 1 1 1 1/2 2 2/3 3 
California Interior 2 2 2 2 2 2/1 1 1 1 1/2 2 2 
Colorado East of 105 longitude 3 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1 1 1/2 2/3 3 3 
Colorado West of 105 longitude 3 3 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1/2 2/3 3 3 3 
Connecticut 3 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1 1 1/2 2 2/3 3 
Delaware 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1 1 1 1/2 2 2/3 3 
DC 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1 1 1 1/2 2 2/3 3 
Florida North of 29 latitude 2 2 2 2/1 1 1 1 1 1 1/2 2 2 
Florida South of 29 latitude 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1/2 2 
Georgia 3 3 2 2/1 1 1 1 1 1 1/2 2 2/3 
Hawaii 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 
Idaho 3 3 3 3/2 2 2 2/1 1/2 2 2/3 3 3 
Illinois North of 40 latitude 3 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1 1 1/2 2/3 3 3 
Illinois South of 40 latitude 3 3 3 3/2 2/1 1 1 1 1/2 2/3 3 3 
Indiana 3 3 3 3/2 2/1 1 1 1 1/2 2/3 3 3 
Iowa 3 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1 1 1/2 2/3 3 3 
Kansas 3 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1 1 1/2 2/3 3 3 
Kentucky 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1 1 1 1/2 2 2/3 3 
Louisiana 2 2 2 2/1 1 1 1 1 1 1/2 2 2 
Maine 3 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1 1/2 2 2/3 3 3 
Maryland 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1 1 1 1/2 2 2/3 3 
Massachusetts 3 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1 1 1/2 2 2/3 3 
Michigan Lower Peninsula 3 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1 1/2 2 2/3 3 3 
Michigan Upper Peninsula 3 3 3 3 3/2 2/1 1 1/2 2 2/3 3 3 
Minnesota 3 3 3 3 3/2 2/1 1 1/2 2 2/3 3 3 
Mississippi 2 2 2 2/1 1 1 1 1 1 1/2 2 2 
Missouri 3 3 3 3/2 2/1 1 1 1 1/2 2/3 3 3 
Montana 3 3 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1/2 2/3 3 3 3 
Nebraska 3 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1 1/2 2 2/3 3 3 
Nevada North of 38 latitude 3 3 3 3/2 2 2 2/1 1/2 2 2/3 3 3 
Nevada South of 38 latitude 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1 1 1 1/2 2 2/3 3 
New Hampshire 3 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1 1/2 2 2/3 3 3 
New Jersey 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1 1 1 1/2 2 2/3 3 
New Mexico North of 34 latitude 3 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1 1 1/2 2/3 3 3 
New Mexico South of 34 latitude 3 3 3/2 2/1 1 1 1 1 1 1/2 2/3 3 
New York North of 42 latitude 3 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1 1/2 2 2/3 3 3 
New York South of 42 latitude 3 3 3 3/2 2/1 1 1 1 1/2 2 2/3 3 
North Carolina 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1 1 1 1/2 2/3 3 3 
North Dakota 3 3 3 3 3/2 2/1 1 1/2 2 2/3 3 3 
Ohio 3 3 3 3/2 2/1 1 1 1 1/2 2/3 3 3 
Oklahoma 3 3 3 3/2 2/1 1 1 1 1/2 2 2/3 3 
Oregon East of 122 longitude 3 3 3 3/2 2 2 2/1 1/2 2 2/3 3 3 
Oregon West of 122 longitude 3 3/2 2 2 2 2/1 1 1 1/2 2 2 2/3 
Pennsylvania North of 41 latitude 3 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1 1/2 2 2/3 3 3 
Pennsylvania South of 41 latitude 3 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1 1 1/2 2 2/3 3 
Rhode Island 3 3 3 3/2 2/1 1 1 1 1/2 2 2/3 3 
South Carolina 2 2 2 2/1 1 1 1 1 1 1/2 2 2 
South Dakota 3 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1 1/2 2 2/3 3 3 
Tennessee 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1 1 1 1/2 2 2/3 3 
Texas North of 31 latitude 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1 1 1 1/2 2 2/3 3 
Texas South of 31 latitude 2 2 2 2/1 1 1 1 1 1 1/2 2 2 
Utah 3 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1 1 1/2 2/3 3 3 
Vermont 3 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1 1/2 2 2/3 3 3 
Virginia 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1 1 1 1/2 2 2/3 3 
Washington East of 122 longitude 3 3 3/2 2 2 2/1 1 1 1/2 2/3 3 3 
Washington West of 122 longitude 3 3/2 2 2 2 2/1 1 1 1/2 2 2 2/3 
West Virginia 3 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1 1/2 2 2/3 3 3 
Wisconsin 3 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1 1/2 2 2/3 3 3 
Wyoming 3 3 3 3 3/2 2 2/1 1/2 2 2/3 3 3"


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Sim said:


>


Would you mind sharing what you tweaked to get near perfect initial cold start on E85? What map(s) and a rough idea of how it's tweaked? 

Cranking enrichment seems to do very little from my testing, injector timing looks to be the key but hard to nail when temperatures swings widely throughout the year. If the cranking injector timing is advanced for X temp range, starting within that range is great, however it's not so great at starting in Y temperature range (forcing me to periodically have to make changes to get decent start up). Any insight on what you did would be greatly appreciated. :beer:


----------



## Sim (Jun 27, 2002)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Would you mind sharing what you tweaked to get near perfect initial cold start on E85? What map(s) and a rough idea of how it's tweaked?
> 
> Cranking enrichment seems to do very little from my testing, injector timing looks to be the key but hard to nail when temperatures swings widely throughout the year. If the cranking injector timing is advanced for X temp range, starting within that range is great, however it's not so great at starting in Y temperature range (forcing me to periodically have to make changes to get decent start up). Any insight on what you did would be greatly appreciated. :beer:


Well, the car runs a different ecu, so things are not exactly the same as with the stock one. At first the whole ECU is set to E85, so when engine is warm LTFT ans STFT are within +-5%. Cranking enrichment is greatly increased, i would say at least 3 times compared to gasoline, also the curve (enrichment vs ECT) is a little different, too! During cranking (until RPM reaches at least 300-400 RPM), the injection pulse widths top up at the maximum which is supported by this particular ECU (130ms / injection), so a bigger injector than the current 630s (preferably with the same spray pattern) would come handy. Target lambda is 0.8 for cranking. Also there is an injector priming event, which sprays a little amount (80ms?!) of E85 on all cylinders even before turning the key for cranking. Injection timing is also reduced (at low ECTs). IIRC injection ends are set to 300* before the end of the compression stroke (TDC). Ignition advance is 12* during cranking. As the engine starts, the huge cranking injection enrichment value decays from ~800% to ~200% in a few seconds and at a slower rate from there to zero. I can do a (graphical log) of these values as we will have got that freezing cold again (which i hope we wont have  ).


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Sim said:


> Cranking enrichment is greatly increased, i would say at least 3 times compared to gasoline,.


That's pretty much what I did as well. It also need almost twice the amount of fuel the first seconds after start in sub zero conditions.


----------



## un1ko (Apr 6, 2004)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> The following breakdown is copied and pasted from a thread I made a while ago about E85 in the MK1 TT forum (Good read if you're thinking about doing the conversion):
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5271998-Madmax-E85-tuning-notes
> 
> 
> ...



Thanks for the info! :beer:


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Did some work in the tank today. Put a lid on the surgetank and attached oem pump on the side to run jet suction and also feed the surgetank.


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

There are no public e85 pumps in Hawaii so that post is false.


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Didn't you move to Cali?


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Vegeta Gti said:


> There are no public e85 pumps in Hawaii so that post is false.


That post wasn't listing list if there was an active public pump or not, but rather the regulations pumps have to abide to when/if there is one. I'm sure it's the case for Alaska's classification too (too cold for practical use of E85 so I doubt it's sold), but classification needs to be there just in case.


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Hey Marcus. With my new camberplates I want to set a good front axle camber/caster for both on track and road. I was thinking -2.5 camber and whatever caster that will be. Around 9 degrees I think. Toe 0. 

Rear - 1.5 camber and 1mm toe in.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Ahhhhh. Touche sir


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> Hey Marcus. With my new camberplates I want to set a good front axle camber/caster for both on track and road. I was thinking -2.5 camber and whatever caster that will be. Around 9 degrees I think. Toe 0.
> 
> Rear - 1.5 camber and 1mm toe in.


Sounds like you got it covered (maybe a touch more front camber if the plate allows it ... closer to static -3.0 static). Everything else is on point! :thumbup:


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Vegeta Gti said:


> Ahhhhh. Touche sir


:beer:

Now that you're on the mainland, you need to make some stuff happen. Get on the corn army!


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Sounds like you got it covered (maybe a touch more front camber if the plate allows it ... closer to static -3.0 static). Everything else is on point! :thumbup:


Don't want to have too much inside wear on the front during normal driving. I know toe is major culprit but how much camber dare you run on the street?


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

I have done -4.5 for years in my Evo, and -5.0 in the TT for a long time when it was a daily driver with no accelerated inside wear at zero toe. If anything, the high static camber evened out the straighline vs cornering wear (and I ran that setting on street and track tire setups). You'll be good to go at -3.0 if the plates can get you there, but I doubt MKIV top plates will go as far as -3.0 alone without other camber compensating add-ons.


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> I have done -4.5 for years in my Evo, and -5.0 in the TT for a long time when it was a daily driver with no accelerated inside wear at zero toe. If anything, the high static camber evened out the straighline vs cornering wear (and I ran that setting on street and track tire setups). You'll be good to go at -3.0 if the plates can get you there, but I doubt MKIV top plates will go as far as -3.0 alone without other camber compensating add-ons.


Great. I'll set them at max and go to an alignment shop and see what we get.


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> You'll be good to go at -3.0 if the plates can get you there, but I doubt MKIV top plates will go as far as -3.0 alone without other camber compensating add-ons.



With the SPC camber plates and the ball joints pushed all the way in I had -2.6 up front. I suspect I could have gotten above -3 with the ball joints pushed outward all the way.


Btw, what power level were you last running? I'm preparing to tune my TT and I've been warned to avoid block/crank twisting to keep the torque below 500 ft/lbs. I was hoping to break 600awhp / 550 ft/lbs this year... what's your input based on experience? (not to derail your thread!)


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

5857 probably won't net you that amount of torque...nor awhp. i think the someone on here hit 550awhp or something...but not 600. torque was more around 400-430ft.lbs on the 5857..i may be off and it could be lower..or higher. but i feel like that's a lot of torque for that turbo.


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Fuel pump in place and lines running through bulkhead fitting.


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Vegeta Gti said:


> 5857 probably won't net you that amount of torque...nor awhp. i think the someone on here hit 550awhp or something...but not 600. torque was more around 400-430ft.lbs on the 5857..i may be off and it could be lower..or higher. but i feel like that's a lot of torque for that turbo.


I made 570awhp / 493 ft lbs


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Pump gas or 100+?


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Vegeta Gti said:


> Pump gas or 100+?


There is a link to Doug's thread in his reply, but he's running on corn juice.


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

most people still run pump, so it can be misleading.:beer:


----------



## un1ko (Apr 6, 2004)

Gulfstream said:


> Fuel pump in place and lines running through bulkhead fitting.


Any updates? I want to know your thoughts on the new injectors :thumbup:


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

un1ko said:


> Any updates? I want to know your thoughts on the new injectors :thumbup:


I actually installed the ASNU 1650cc injectors yesterday and the feel pretty good. Haven't had any time to do them a real run over yet but they feel better than the Five-O's. That said I noticed the Five-O I had in runner 3 was a goner. It was leaking fuel and the inside of the runner was full of this red/black residue so naturally a well working set of injectors will feel much better. Idle with 80mm TB is perfect with no oscillations. 

BVC values I got today from Arnold are 47% higher than the old values I had from the Bosch NG 1680cc injectors so if I want to use those I have to reduce IC to around 0,02000 from 0,03800 range which I have now...


I will do some testing next week.


----------



## un1ko (Apr 6, 2004)

Gulfstream said:


> I actually installed the ASNU 1650cc injectors yesterday and the feel pretty good. Haven't had any time to do them a real run over yet but they feel better than the Five-O's. That said I noticed the Five-O I had in runner 3 was a goner. It was leaking fuel and the inside of the runner was full of this red/black residue so naturally a well working set of injectors will feel much better. Idle with 80mm TB is perfect with no oscillations.
> 
> BVC values I got today from Arnold are 47% higher than the old values I had from the Bosch NG 1680cc injectors so if I want to use those I have to reduce IC to around 0,02000 from 0,03800 range which I have now...
> 
> ...



How long have you had the Five-O? That's crazy that one is leaking and has residue, I'd imagine that's because of the E85. Those injectors probably can't handle it. Happy that the ASNU 1650 feel better. Can wait to hear once you got it well tuned. :thumbup:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

un1ko said:


> How long have you had the Five-O? That's crazy that one is leaking and has residue, I'd imagine that's because of the E85. Those injectors probably can't handle it. Happy that the ASNU 1650 feel better. Can wait to hear once you got it well tuned. :thumbup:


I had similar problem with my last Bosch 1680cc injectors... These 1650cc ASNU Bosch Racing injectors are my 5th set and they are twice the price of the others so fingers x'd they do the job. :thumbup:

Edit: I've had the Five-O's for less than one year. No warranty apparently....


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Can't wait to see this in action!


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Here is my coldstart in -5c with the new Bosch Racing/ASNU 1650cc injectors.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

That's excellent! :thumbup:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> That's excellent! :thumbup:


Good injectors. :beer:


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## un1ko (Apr 6, 2004)

Awesome! :beer:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)




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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

wow nice!:beer:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Here is some carnage from the previous turbo. I believe what happened was the EGT probe broke off and was rubbing in the turbine housing causing excessive backpressure and EGT's. Oil turned black in 10mins and pickup/transient response was utter she8. Now I run a GT35R with ceramic bearings inside Arnolds metal cage and his 59mm billet compressor.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Jesus


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Here is a warm idle clip with new injectors and 80mm TB. Catcam 3651 are advanced about 3 degrees. E85

I'll start mapping in 35psi and try to get time in a dyno next week.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)




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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Dave926 said:


> I'm sure there is a correction map to compensate for this.
> 
> Let me see what I can find


Just to pick up on this thread. I notice in the description for the warmup fuel correction map one axis is coolant temp and the other is air temp which I ass-u-me is intake temp. However, the map don't specify which one is which... it just say Degree on Y axis and Degrees C on X axis. Any ideas? 

I made this to go test a start with hot intake:










Edit: Just did a log and discovered X is intake temp where Y is coolant. Should be no problems with heatsoak starts now :beer:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)




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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Preparing for the summer season now. Rear trailing arm bushes was in a sorry state so I got some powerflex ones which was a VAST improvement. Kenne Bell boost-a-pump is installed and I should have 17.5V at the fuel pump above 3psi now.. Will do some testing tonight.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

:beer::beer::beer::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::wave::wave::heart::heart::heart:


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Geoff's car is now running the FIC 1650s now too, and Ill agree they are amazing. Between that, and playing with timing at idle it now runs about 14in/hg instead of 9

Idle is a lot better than the Genesis 2000s he had in there before. What are you seeing for injector on-time at idle?


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

fix that rust under the car!!!


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> fix that rust under the car!!!


We have 6 months of winter with salty roads. No way outside rust unless you have a 100% carbonfiber car...


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Dave926 said:


> Geoff's car is now running the FIC 1650s now too, and Ill agree they are amazing. Between that, and playing with timing at idle it now runs about 14in/hg instead of 9
> 
> Idle is a lot better than the Genesis 2000s he had in there before. What are you seeing for injector on-time at idle?


For me there was no change in vacuum with different injectors. Changed a little with cams. I have 18in/hg vacuum at idle with cat 3651's advanced 3 degrees. 

I'll check ms at idle today and post it :beer:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

i also have 18in/hg with my 3651's, which is fine by me.

btw...full carbon car....what are you waiting for man??!!:beer::beer:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> i also have 18in/hg with my 3651's, which is fine by me.
> 
> btw...full carbon car....what are you waiting for man??!!:beer::beer:


I think next time I throw money at a trackday car I'll get a track focused design such as Ariel Atom 3.5R.

This platform is fun to work with and such but no matter what you do it will push and be way to heavy for some serious track wørk. :beer:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Yes yes and yes


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Unlike your Seat, Ariels are known for lack of crash structure. As much as I do like them myself, I don't have the balls to drive one on a major track. Watch this guy fight it a little and some VW's in there as well: http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/news/a25150/watch-this-blown-ariel-atom-hit-the-ring/


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

18T_BT said:


> Unlike your Seat, Ariels are known for lack of crash structure. As much as I do like them myself, I don't have the balls to drive one on a major track. Watch this guy fight it a little and some VW's in there as well: http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/news/a25150/watch-this-blown-ariel-atom-hit-the-ring/


Yes, the earlier Atom's didn't have a rear wing so they where quite nervous in the corners. New 3.5R has much better rear end grip. Still, it's a bag of money tho... Close to GT3 greens.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Dave926 said:


> Geoff's car is now running the FIC 1650s now too, and Ill agree they are amazing. Between that, and playing with timing at idle it now runs about 14in/hg instead of 9
> 
> Idle is a lot better than the Genesis 2000s he had in there before. What are you seeing for injector on-time at idle?


Idle with warm motor and no AC is 1.55-1.60MS injector duty.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Did some pulls tonight with the new turbo PPT5935R .82ar turbine housing and catcams 3651 advanced 3 degrees. I see 20psi at 4100rpm in 4th gear and 4300rpm in 3rd gear which is pretty damn good for this size turbo. Kenne Bell boost-a-pump works as advertised and I now have 85% injector duty at 34psi and 7000rpm instead of 99% before I installed the bap unit. 
Rolling start 0-62mph is around 3.5sec with my sloppy shifting. 
Overall a good day :beer:






https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1NGv0itdavb6ZzZ_nfU86Youa_59b5WMAHbhfTWaW27c/edit?usp=sharing


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

How does the Haldex feel in comparison to the previous set up on the hwy? Have you launched the car yet? Is it worth the swap?


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

18T_BT said:


> How does the Haldex feel in comparison to the previous set up on the hwy? Have you launched the car yet? Is it worth the swap?


Well, the biggest difference is the fact that I have grip everywhere. Out of the corners, 1st, 2nd, 3rd.... with fwd I didn't grip until 4th with this ratio box. 

If you do a build like mine meaning 400+ and do active driving say trackdays I don't see how it's NOT worth it. I'll never do fwd again. 

No, I have not launched it yet as that's not my thing and it's too much stress on the clutch. This is a trackday build. 

That said, I just bought a Haldex version of my car and swapped the engine and cool bits over. Much simpler than cutting out the floor and going to town like Stacey here on the forum.


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> I think next time I throw money at a trackday car I'll get a track focused design such as Ariel Atom 3.5R.
> 
> This platform is fun to work with and such but no matter what you do it will push and be way to heavy for some serious track wørk. :beer:


O, I totally agree that a purpoely-designed track machine will be much more better (from the get-go at least) to do what you're doing. We're taking commuter car and repurposing them to do something they were not intended to, people like us always will be faced with some limitations in the design. However, there is always a way to work around things with enough infusion of knowledge, skills, dedication, and cash. 

I'm not judging in any way, you have one of the most elaborate engine build around, and I subscribe to your thread because things are done properly for the intended use, and there is good attention to details. But honestly, I feel that your level of suspension work has not yet reached the point of development put into the powertrain. I'm pretty confident in saying that with more chassis/suspension development, things like the inherent push you singled out can be totally figured out. You just have tackle it to the same level you have built your motor! :beer::thumbup:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> O, I totally agree that a purpoely-designed track machine will be much more better (from the get-go at least) to do what you're doing. We're taking commuter car and repurposing them to do something they were not intended to, people like us always will be faced with some limitations in the design. However, there is always a way to work around things with enough infusion of knowledge, skills, dedication, and cash.
> 
> I'm not judging in any way, you have one of the most elaborate engine build around, and I subscribe to your thread because things are done properly for the intended use, and there is good attention to details. But honestly, I feel that your level of suspension work has not yet reached the point of development put into the powertrain. I'm pretty confident in saying that with more chassis/suspension development, things like the inherent push you singled out can be totally figured out. You just have tackle it to the same level you have built your motor! :beer::thumbup:


Well, with push I mean on/off power in the corners. When boost goes past 4psi rear axle is engaged and even if the CRC controller makes it a lot better than oem slip-engage it still pushes in 3rd and 4th gear corners. but, hey, I'm comparing it to a pure trackday car weighing less than 1t. 

For what it is I'm really pleased with it and cannot wait to go on a trackday again :thumbup:


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## [email protected] Motorsports (Sep 24, 2013)

Vegeta Gti said:


> i also have 18in/hg with my 3651's, which is fine by me.
> 
> btw...full carbon car....what are you waiting for man??!!:beer::beer:


I also have 18inHg with my 3651's :thumbup:


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Øistein, I've been following your thread for a while and glad to see that you made the haldex swap in the sense of the whole vehicle . I also, jumped into the same situation as I had a FWD MKIV with Arnold's original kit. Then I decided to buy all his new stuff, v2 manifold and billet wheel turbo, new FMIC, got an audi TT shell, and a bunch of misc parts, unfortunately before I could put it all together, I decided to *sell* it and jump into a different platform while the parts were all new. Now, I am looking at your experience and being jealous


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I think for the price of parts the 1.8T platform is hard to beat. When you do trackdays you can be sure about one thing and that's the fact that something will break sooner or later. Not just this platform but any cars. I've seen 997 Turbo S going backwards into barriers, new M5's faceplant into fenders and multiple gearbox breakdowns. With the 1.8T platform I can go on the used market/breakers online and pick and choose between lightly used oem parts to rebuild for a fraction of the price of optional platforms. I wanted to get a GT3 at some point and track it like I do my Seat but i suspect only a few breakdowns would lead to bankruptcy. 

Now, I have an awd car that can hang with Turbo S on the straights AND GT3 in the corners... yeah! :beer::beer:


What platform did you go to?


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## superkarl (Dec 18, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> Much simpler than cutting out the floor and going to town like Stacey here on the forum.


Stacey has an S3. Already 4wd


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

superkarl said:


> Stacey has an S3. Already 4wd


Sorry I meant Graham.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

That's great spool. You should answer that phone call. 


You def need better control arms and trailing arms etc in that thing. But another time lol. 
I can't wait to see your videos this year! !


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> That's great spool. You should answer that phone call.
> 
> 
> You def need better control arms and trailing arms etc in that thing. But another time lol.
> I can't wait to see your videos this year! !


yeah, I take notes when Max and you guys in here with racing experience make comments and you be right, those bushings I installed made a big difference on how the rear end felt. Specially under hard acceleration.

I'll keep modding this thing until it leaves a smoking hole in the ground :wave:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

btw, I notice it's hard to see the speed in the video, but at 30 sec I do 0-120mph in about 11sec with slowish shifts.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Fuk yeah. 

There are some nice parts out there to beef up your disorganized and is adjustability. 
I've antsy started drawing and mocking up stuff for mine. ..but I Gotta get the coilovers I want/need first.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Gulfstream said:


> Here is a warm idle clip with new injectors and 80mm TB. Catcam 3651 are advanced about 3 degrees. E85
> 
> I'll start mapping in 35psi and try to get time in a dyno next week.


That setup you have is bad ass


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Cheers :beer:

Now I need just NOT to break something until I can get it in a dyno, map timing and hit trackdays.

Make it so :laugh:


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## Budsdubbin (Jul 14, 2008)

What's your target for idle lambda?


Whoops overlooked the video


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## dane. (Nov 16, 2007)

Watching those pulls, you can really see your car lift the front end up. Looks like tons of fun.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Really happy with the way the Kenne Bell bap unit works. I mean it ACTUALLY does what it claims it can do which is rare these days. Going from IDC of 99% at 34psi to 85% just by adding the bap is awesome.


Now I can add some more boost... mby just 1 more psi opcorn:


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

those kenne belle BAP's are a must for all vette owners that upgrade to more HP...they all swear by them :thumbup:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

18T_BT said:


> those kenne belle BAP's are a must for all vette owners that upgrade to more HP...they all swear by them :thumbup:



Can run my current fuelsetup with confidence now. 85% duty at 34psi is way safe.

Also, I just went through MOT(public road testing) testing today with the car which it passed with flying colors. Only 14HC out of 100 allowed. 0 Co2 measured at lambda 1. E85 ftw :wave:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> Can run my current fuelsetup with confidence now. 85% duty at 34psi is way safe.
> 
> Also, I just went through MOT(public road testing) testing today with the car which it passed with flying colors. Only 14HC out of 100 allowed. 0 Co2 measured at lambda 1. E85 ftw :wave:


Nice, the boost cocktail is also clean! :thumbup::thumbup:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

That's fukn awesome. ..with a cat? Hi flow?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> That's fukn awesome. ..with a cat? Hi flow?


Yeah, I use an Audi 2.7T cat for the MOT. Burns all the bad stuff + E85 burn clean from the getgo so emissions is not a problem with this setup.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

more reasons i should switch.......****


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## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

WOW what a car man!!! Still my favorite 1.8T out there!

How does the .82 feel compared to the .63?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

suffocatemymind said:


> WOW what a car man!!! Still my favorite 1.8T out there!
> 
> How does the .82 feel compared to the .63?


have to say with 9.5:1 CR, E85 and 3 degrees advanced 3651 cat's I have ok pull below 4k. At 4100rpm I hit 20psi in 4th gear. I see no point going to a smaller frame turbo than a billet 35R with a 2L built motor. The .82 vs .63ar swap gave me marginally slower boost(neglectable) like 200rpm, but noticeable more pull over 6k. Dyno and trackdays will be interesting with this thing :beer:

PPT5935R is HIGHLY recommended !!!


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## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

:thumbup: :beer:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Installed my camberplates and did 4-wheel alignment. Maxed out the camberplates only gave another degree or so. I expected a bit more but ok. In the end I have almost -3deg camber up front with short of 7deg caster and 0 toe. Rear I have -2deg camber and 1mm toe in on each side.


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)




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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Looking good! :thumbup:

You could have gotten a bit more camber/caster out of the top plates by flipping the lower cup plate 180 degrees from how they were sent. Also, diagonally angling the mount more adds caster with negligible crosstalk to camber (up to a point). Last piece of advice is to use better/longer hardware to prevent the plate from walking at the track under heavy load and race tires -- with longer bolts you can nut-and-bolt them and add lock washers. I wouldn't do anything (except for the hardware) now since you already got it aligned, so some stuff for next alignment. 

BTW, that much rear camber is way past the optimal range (-1.3 to -1.7) and you'll be underusing your contact patch dynamically and wasting available rear grip with so much compensation. :beer:


See how mine are more acutely angled diagonally towards the 2 O'clock position (passenger side) to give more caster and limited crosstalk to the the camber angle. 



















In this pic, you can see the lower locking nuts I added to the longer hardware, preventing them from backing out and allowing the plates to move


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Have you tested -2deg rear camber? Perhaps I should go back and reduce it in case it's not recommended... I have had rear end slip on me in high G corners around 100mph... 

Flip the lower cup plate and better/longer bolts is copied. On the to-do list now. :thumbup:

The mech was weary of tightening them too much as the top plate started to flex as there is some space between those two plates. Not the best design in the world this :wave:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Just checked the lower plate is installed same way as you. If I flipped it it wouldn't fit... unless you are talking about another plate?


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> Have you tested -2deg rear camber? Perhaps I should go back and reduce it in case it's not recommended... I have had rear end slip on me in high G corners around 100mph...
> 
> Flip the lower cup plate and better/longer bolts is copied. On the to-do list now. :thumbup:
> 
> The mech was weary of tightening them too much as the top plate started to flex as there is some space between those two plates. Not the best design in the world this :wave:


Yes, I've tested -2 deg (or any other static camber compensation level for that matter) because I did the camber curving. In other words, I calculated the relationship between contact patch and camber curve throughout the effective travel range. When comparing the results to the available stroke (something I've also calculated for bothe rear spring and damper since they are mounted in separate location with a 0.63 motion ratio), the static camber compensation range that kept the rear contact patch within optimal contact with the road was -1.3 to about -1.8. What is ideal for a specific setup depends on roll resistance, stiffer cars can use -1.3, while softer sprung cars should aim closer to -1.7. 

So yes, that much camber is using only a portion of tire dynamically. When going straight and braking only the inner edge of the rear is participating, and while cornering maybe 2/3 of the tire does some work (don't forget that there is only 10 cm of total rear stroke). Therefore I can see why you felt limited rear grip at high speed with that much rear camber. Also, this chassis is a lot more stable with some rear toe-in at high speed. 1/16-1/8" of toe-in will make the rear very stable at high speed. 

Mechanic is correct, the top plate bows when tightening the bolts, so too much tq can't be applied. That's why adding longer bolts, and locking nuts go a long way at keeping the plate where they belong.


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

When I had rear end slip at high speed corner I had -1.5 rear camber. I got -2 today... well, ok. I'll go and have a talk with the alignment shop tomorrow. :thumbup:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> Just checked the lower plate is installed same way as you. If I flipped it it wouldn't fit... unless you are talking about another plate?


You are correct, this pic shows it better, looks like it's already flipped. :beer:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> When I had rear end slip at high speed corner I had -1.5 rear camber. I got -2 today... well, ok. I'll go and have a talk with the alignment shop tomorrow. :thumbup:


See if you can have them dial a touch more toe-in too. This will really stabalize the rear in high speed cornering, as well as limit throttle lift oversteer and rear squirelling under heavy braking. :beer:


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> See if you can have them dial a touch more toe-in too. This will really stabalize the rear in high speed cornering, as well as limit throttle lift oversteer and rear squirelling under heavy braking. :beer:


The mech wondered if I wanted 1mm toe in in total or 1mm each side, I have 1mm each side which is 2mm total toe in. Not sure more is recommended as I also drive it long stretches on the road....

2mm is 0.0787" or 1/13". Gut? :beer:


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> The mech wondered if I wanted 1mm toe in in total or 1mm each side, I have 1mm each side which is 2mm total toe in. Not sure more is recommended as I also drive it long stretches on the road....
> 
> 2mm is 0.0787" or 1/13". Gut? :beer:


That's nothing! 1/16" per side (1.58mm) is mild and will not do anything to the tire's longevity. For reference, I run 1/8th per side on my car (car still has to be driven long distance to events) because the rear toe-in inspire confidence and make me feel like a superhero at high speed due to the improved rear stability. Go for 1/16" per side (3.1mm total) and enjoy a car that's not loking to swap ends on you at high speed. :beer:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> That's nothing! 1/16" per side (1.58mm) is mild and will not do anything to the tire's longevity. For reference, I run 1/8th per side on my car (car still has to be driven long distance to events) because the rear toe-in inspire confidence and make me feel like a superhero at high speed due to the improved rear stability. Go for 1/16" per side (3.1mm total) and enjoy a car that's not loking to swap ends on you at high speed. :beer:


3.1mm total? Damn... I understood that would eat up the tires. How many miles do you have with this setting?


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> 3.1mm total? Damn... I understood that would eat up the tires. How many miles do you have with this setting?


About 5+ years with street duties included (before the car became a dedicated track car).

PS: toe out is a tire killer though


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> About 5+ years with street duties included (before the car became a dedicated track car).
> 
> PS: toe out is a tire killer though


Yeah, no toe out. Even 0 toe in the rear was not recommended by the shop. At least some toe in and we ended up on 1mm per side. I'll have some words with them tomorrow and see..

I did some testing today and it feels like it's on rails in the corners. I might do some trackdays with this setting and change the rear end setting mid season so I can experience both on my specific car.


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> Yeah, no toe out. Even 0 toe in the rear was not recommended by the shop. At least some toe in and we ended up on 1mm per side. I'll have some words with them tomorrow and see..
> 
> I did some testing today and it feels like it's on rails in the corners. I might do some trackdays with this setting and change the rear end setting mid season so I can experience both on my specific car.


:thumbup::beer:


... and for sh*t and giggles, here are the designed post-recall specs for the rear of this chassis. As you can see the engineers at Audi also knew what they were doing. At factory height, there is less than -1.5 degrees of camber (and coimcidently about 1/16" toe in) dialed in the rear.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Interesting that they even publish camber values with shorter springs. With my - 2° I'm smack in the middle.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Yeah, Audi does things like that. Be mindful though that they designed the geometry to be effective and optimized around factory height, and at height the rear camber angle is under -1.5* (just like measured whith the camber curving).


----------



## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

Out of nowhere question:
I tried to check this thread and the old one for pics with the hot air charge pipe (you had like the S3, and now it's hidden) and I found none.
Do you have any pics of this?
Cheers!


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I'll find that pic for you in a moment hydro.

This happened to me as I was pulling into the driveway today:




























I should buy a lottery ticket. if that happened on the Autobahn doing 180mph I'd be a goner... 

Ok, so I need rear control arms. Guess Cris and Max did mention it a few times.... Which are the best adjustable rear control arms for the awd chassis? 

:laugh::wave::beer:


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

HidRo said:


> Out of nowhere question:
> I tried to check this thread and the old one for pics with the hot air charge pipe (you had like the S3, and now it's hidden) and I found none.
> Do you have any pics of this?
> Cheers!


Here is the old setup with chargepipe over the top of the engine:


----------



## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

Right I want the new setup


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

HidRo said:


> Right I want the new setup


With new setup I run the chargepipe underneath. You can't see it from the top. I'll look for a pic..


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> I'll find that pic for you in a moment hydro.
> 
> This happened to me as I was pulling into the driveway today:
> 
> ...


Wow, that sucks but consider yourself a lucky one for it happening where it did. First order of things, before even going into the lateral links is to inspect and replace the hub-side rose joints. They are notorious for needing servicing or failing. When that happens they seize and restrict motion which is what put stress and destroy the yoke end on the lateral links. There was a production change at some point and the rose joints were superseded by a regular bushing to prevent failure (bushing will never seize). 

As for the "control arms" (really lateral links) it's a no brainier. All the track junkies in the TT, and R32 community (including myself) only trust the Madmax ones. Just follow the link in my sig on where to order. I'll also pull some strings for you a preffered member discount.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

HidRo said:


> Right I want the new setup


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Check your PM box fool!


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Check your PM box fool!


Answered :beer::beer::beer:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Wow, that sucks but consider yourself a lucky one for it happening where it did. First order of things, before even going into the lateral links is to inspect and replace the hub-side rose joints. They are notorious for needing servicing or failing. When that happens they seize and restrict motion which is what put stress and destroy the yoke end on the lateral links. There was a production change at some point and the rose joints were superseded by a regular bushing to prevent failure (bushing will never seize).
> 
> As for the "control arms" (really lateral links) it's a no brainier. All the track junkies in the TT, and R32 community (including myself) only trust the Madmax ones. Just follow the link in my sig on where to order. I'll also pull some strings for you a preffered member discount.


Yeah man. If it happened at full tit on the Autobahn..... no bueno all over the place. I'll replace the outer arm bushings as well while I'm at it.


----------



## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

Thanks for the pic!!
Is that 2.5" all around?

Also, lucky with that rear control arm. Damn!!!


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

HidRo said:


> Thanks for the pic!!
> Is that 2.5" all around?
> 
> Also, lucky with that rear control arm. Damn!!!


Yeah man. I was lucky ic:

It's 2.5" all the way from compressor outlet via IC to TB where I scale up to 80mm.


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

i had the madmax units on my last R. they're worth it.

and what oilpan is that O?

i am thinking i need to beef mine up.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

That's an INA baffled oil pan IIRC. :thumbup:


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

18T_BT said:


> That's an INA baffled oil pan IIRC. :thumbup:


Yeah it's INA's kicked out baffled sump. However, we had to drill a new hole for the dipstick and just last week discovered it's leaking from a weld. Small crack on the lowerside of the weld:


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

i'll just make one for myself then lol.
****ty dude...i'm feeling you this week. clutch deciding to go when the car wasn't even running, super awesome. walking everywhere sucks.


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> i'll just make one for myself then lol.
> ****ty dude...i'm feeling you this week. clutch deciding to go when the car wasn't even running, super awesome. walking everywhere sucks.


I'm pulling out my bike. Might even drop a few kg's while I wait for Max's controlarms :thumbup:


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Vegeta Gti said:


> i had the madmax units on my last R. they're worth it.


Thanks for the vote of confidence, satisfied users is my inspiration. :beer:



Gulfstream said:


> Might even drop a few kg's while I wait for Max's controlarms :thumbup:


Awesome, do tell what you're cooking for the weight loss. And thanks for the support! :thumbup:


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Thanks for the vote of confidence, satisfied users is my inspiration. :beer:
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome, do tell what you're cooking for the weight loss. And thanks for the support! :thumbup:


I'm only a pizza away from 100kg's so this might be good time to burn a little on the old pedalmachine :laugh:


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Lol


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

The Madmax arms are beefier than oem so I'll get longer bolts. What's the spec on the bolts you use for those?


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> I'm only a pizza away from 100kg's so this might be good time to burn a little on the old pedalmachine :laugh:


lol, I thought you meant motorcycle when you said bike! Isn't it too cold still for the pedalmachine in your area? 



Gulfstream said:


> The Madmax arms are beefier than oem so I'll get longer bolts. What's the spec on the bolts you use for those?


The longer OEM 80mm inner bolts works all around. However, you could use similarly sized 80mm bolts that are reusable (OEM are single use "stretch" bolts). Just make sure to use 10.5 grade shouldered bolts. 

Here is a good install thread with bolt sizes and details on the difference, even have TQ specs. :beer:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5633696-MadMax-Control-arm-install


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> lol, I thought you meant motorcycle when you said bike! Isn't it too cold still for the pedalmachine in your area?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nah, we have 10c in the daytimes now. Almost like summer over here :thumbup:

I'll get new bushings and bolts from the from the stealer.

Great diy. You're shipping upper and lower both sides, right?


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Yes Sir! :beer:


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Great. And you said use oem outer bushings and not poly like these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230923915991?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> Great. And you said use oem outer bushings and not poly like these:
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230923915991?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


Correct!


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I'm amazed at the thin metal vag use for the control arms here. I wouldn't use this on a moped. Much less a 1.5t car....


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> I'm amazed at the thin metal vag use for the control arms here. I wouldn't use this on a moped. Much less a 1.5t car....


Yeah, I was very amazed too. Without having an impact event, the yoke part that goes over the hub eye-mount is the most stressed point in the rear lateral links. The yoke deals radial and axial forces without being cushioned, the bushing that provides articulation at the joint also has limited range of motion which makes matters worse. I can see why yours broke in the driveway (they mostly do, even the weaker, still flimsy, aftermarket ones) -- the wheel elevation difference created by the driveway angling exceeded the range of motion in the articulation of the rose-joint (especially if it's seizing) and snapped the anemic yoke portion of the stock arms. 

What's scary about these situations is it could have partially cracked the yoke, allowing you to continue driving and having the total failure happen in a much more dangerous condition. To the engineer's defense, some of the extremes forces we see with odd angles and stiffer suspension are outside the design parameters of the non-modified car. And they also needed to incorporate a crumple point in the link to protect in impact-type situations, but using the yoke instead of the center link for crumple purposes was a design flaw. With the Madmax arms you got, the yoke is super beefy. So beefy that they make other aftermarket ones look like the OEM yoke portion in comparison. With links designed for a tank, you should be in good hands now. :beer:


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

That's nuts, very glad it happened pulling into the driveway (if it had to happen, you know?)


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> I can see why yours broke in the driveway (they mostly do, even the weaker, still flimsy, aftermarket ones) -- the wheel elevation difference created by the driveway angling exceeded the range of motion in the articulation of the rose-joint (especially if it's seizing) and snapped the anemic yoke portion of the stock arms.


That is exactly right. I made a left turn to get up a curb where front left and rear right wheels took all the load. Rear right lower arm broke off right there... 



l88m22vette said:


> That's nuts, very glad it happened pulling into the driveway (if it had to happen, you know?)


Agreed. Imagine this happening at Fuchsröhre on the Ring.... I'd be wrapped around a tree for sure.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Do you have a part number for the replacement rose joints?


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Do you have a part number for the replacement rose joints?


This is the part nr I get without talking with the stealer. I'll call them on Monday and get the latest revision:

1J0 505 203


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Do you plan on staying with the rose joints or the updated all rubber version?

I am at 175K miles and would like to swap them all out during madmax control arm install


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I thought I'd follow VAG's recommendations on the subject. Are there any pro/cons?


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Guys, here is the scoop, there was a design change mid-production with the rose-jointed outer mount. The engineers realized the occurence of ill-serviced rose joints seizing and snapping laterals links was becoming too common for comfort. The rose joints were replaced and superseeded with a common bushing to eliminate the chance of seizing. This was a safe move, but came at the expense of the range of motion (the rose joints offered much higher deflection angles VS their bushing counterparts). 

If you can find old stock, and stay on top of the maintenance and servicing needed with spherical bearings, the rose joints are much better in terms of functionality and performance. I found a set on a close out a few years ago and changed the original ones (although they were still good with full articulation at 50k miles, so proper servicing goes a long way with those). The 1J0 505 203 is the superseeded rubber encased joint part number, while the old rose joints part number were 1J0 505 365N (they are unicorns now like the pre-recalled front control arms and highly desirable). 

Here is a comparison pic of both new and old designs:


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Clearly I need to source the old version. Tnx Max. 

Can't you "just" lube it with copper paste at install and bob's your uncle?


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Yes, they can be serviced. However, you have to inspect them first and make sure there is no play (old un-serviced ones can have lots of play and even develop rust on the spherical bearing surface. I would suggest coating the spherical with permanent dry film lubricant (molybdenum disulfide in a rattle can gets the job done), and repacking them with sythetic grease. Also make sure the boots are still intact as the joints will quickly deteriorate again if there is outside contamination. :beer:


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Yes, they can be serviced. However, you have to inspect them first and make sure there is no play (old un-serviced ones can have lots of play and even develop rust on the spherical bearing surface. I would suggest coating the spherical with permanent dry film lubricant (molybdenum disulfide in a rattle can gets the job done), and repacking them with sythetic grease. Also make sure the boots are still intact as the joints will quickly deteriorate again if there is outside contamination. :beer:


So to make it clear you suggest first coat the metal sphere with dry moly lube THEN coat it again with synth grease before install?


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Yes! Coat the bearing surface with the dry film (pure lubrication and anti-seizing property), then pack the joint with grease (grease-packing for external contaminent protection).


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Wildo


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

What was VAG thinking here? It's 2mm cast (some places less) in the outer control arms where they clamp on the hub. Unbelievable...











Here it's clear it was cracked over time. The clear metal is where it still had cast and all the rust is an older crack which had developed over time. That's interesting as me, my mech, the MOT who has a machine to twist the tires in order to find stuff like this and the alignment guy all missed this crack in the control arm. I suggest everybody with a VAG haldex gen 1 vehicle go have a really long and hard look at their control arms:


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Pretty scary stuff! As for what VAG was thinking with the design... :facepalm:

The overbuilt yokes in the links you got make the other "performance" yokes look anemic too, so you're in good hands now


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Pretty scary stuff! As for what VAG was thinking with the design... :facepalm:
> 
> The overbuilt yokes in the links you got make the other "performance" yokes look anemic too, so you're in good hands now


This is what the cars should come with from factory. Is that stainless steel? :beer::beer:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Yep, cold roll stainless :thumbup:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Yep, cold roll stainless :thumbup:


:beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:


Ship tomorrow?


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> :beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:
> 
> 
> Ship tomorrow?


Yes Sir, we don't want you on that pedal machine more than you have to...  :beer:


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Yes Sir, we don't want you on that pedal machine more than you have to...  :beer:


Agreed :laugh:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

My cobra head was collapsing at 35psi boost so I made this to keep it in place:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> the static camber compensation range that kept the rear contact patch within optimal contact with the road was -1.3 to about -1.8. What is ideal for a specific setup depends on roll resistance, stiffer cars can use -1.3, while softer sprung cars should aim closer to -1.7.





Marcus_Aurelius said:


> :thumbup::beer:
> 
> 
> ... and for sh*t and giggles, here are the designed post-recall specs for the rear of this chassis. As you can see the engineers at Audi also knew what they were doing. At factory height, there is less than -1.5 degrees of camber (and coimcidently about 1/16" toe in) dialed in the rear.


Max, just to clarify a little you say run -1.5deg camber on the rear axle. Do you mean -1 degree and 50sec or -1 deg 30sec? Maximum  camber is 59sec( 1deg 59sec ) next value is 2deg 0sec. 

I will go to alignment again on Monday with your new control arms and will change toe to 2mm in per side and change the camber from 2deg 0sec where I am now to 1deg 30sec.. ? :beer::beer:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Yes, -1 deg 30 sec rear camber! :thumbup:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Copy :thumbup::beer::beer::beer:


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## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Pretty scary stuff! As for what VAG was thinking with the design... :facepalm:
> 
> The overbuilt yokes in the links you got make the other "performance" yokes look anemic too, so you're in good hands now


What is that Max, 1/4"? Looks beefy (and proper) :thumbup:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Yes, beefy 1/4" with tight clearance so the arms of the yoke are not unnecessary long (the longer the yoke's arms, the more leverage and stress is introduce on the part under load).  :beer:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Good things come to those who wait. It's a snug fit but I fitted the lower ones. Upper arms I need to go in a lift because I need to remove one of the haldex bushings to get the bolts out. 










This week I had time to finally paint checkered flag pattern on my side mirror covers


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

You can remove the Haldex bushings with the car on jack stands.

I just did it today all 4 arms in about 3 hours time.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Mine was seized. Need some better tools to move them. Did you install same arms?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Very pleased with the new Madmax arms:



















Tnx Max :beer::beer::beer::beer:


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Get some plastic/rubber caps for the grease zerks :thumbup:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Installed a Y connector instead of a T to join upper and lower breather going into the CC. 










Dig the checkered flag covers.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

l88m22vette said:


> Get some plastic/rubber caps for the grease zerks :thumbup:


Good call :thumbup:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> Did you install same arms?


Yes he did! Richard is a member that does his homework just like you Oistein. See post 59 here:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...rbo-TT-Build&p=87385095&posted=1#post87385095


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

l88m22vette said:


> Get some plastic/rubber caps for the grease zerks :thumbup:


I agree Eric, with the high corrosion in O's area it couldn't hurt to have some humidity/rust protection to the fitting. 

However, I never felt the need to do so, or include caps with the arms because zerk-fitting boots are only needed in high pressure applications where outside contamination is a concern (think brake calipers).


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


>


Car looks amazing BTW, that profile pic is the Bizzniz!!!


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Yes he did! Richard is a member that does his homework just like you Oistein. See post 59 here:
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...rbo-TT-Build&p=87385095&posted=1#post87385095


I checked it. Good man :thumbup: I won't drive this car on the salty winter roads again so I think I'll just cover the nipples with some anti rust oil. 

:beer::beer:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Found the good bushings and installed all 4 together with the control arms:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Looks good! Did you get it re-aligned yet?


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Where did you source the good bushes from?


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Looks good! Did you get it re-aligned yet?


Tomorrow @ 13:00 hrs :thumbup:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Where did you source the good bushes from?


Swedish part site.

Bilstein model:

http://www.skruvat.se/Axelupphangning-P376398.aspx


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Now I have - 3deg camber, 7 caster and 0 toe up front and - 1deg 30min camber and 2mm toe in rear. 

Alignment guy was surprised I asked or so much toe in on the rear axle and thought it might wear down the tires faster... I'll keep an eye open.


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> Now I have - 3deg camber, 7 caster and 0 toe up front and - 1deg 30min camber and 2mm toe in rear.


:thumbup::thumbup: 

Car is going to feel like it's glued to the ground. Don't put too much weight on what the alignment guy said. Toe out is the real tire killer, excessive toe in accelerates cupping, but trust me you're nowhere near what can be considered excessive.


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Awesome man


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Cleaned up the coilpack wires.


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Nice sir


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Very tidy!


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Finally got a dyno slot on Monday. A new dyno this time not the Civinco one I used last years. 

Will test 25psi in fwd and awd with resistor plugs and non resistor plugs. Then go to 35psi with resistor plugs.

eace:


----------



## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Looking forward to see the results 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Looking forward to seeing the results. I don't expect to see much from the two type of plugs on a few WOT pulls, but when soaking a car while loaded at the track for 30+ min, non-resistored plugs are usually the choice (I run non-resistored plugs on mine with success).


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I'd like to run non-resistor plugs but my CRC Haldex controller is affected by the electrostatic noise they produce. Would like plasma coils and non-r plugs. So I need to see how much power I loose running resistor plugs.


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Baller


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

So what do we think it has at 25/35psi? Talking AWHP.

400/500?


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

436awhp. +/- 5awhp


----------



## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

At 25 you better have at least 
530fwhp and at 35 more than 650fwhp. AWHP 500ish @ 25; 600ish @ 35


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

600awhp with 26% drivetrainloss would be some 756bhp... not sure I'm quite there yet. Will be interesting to see what Arnolds PPT5935R can do.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

What fuel are you using to dyno? E85?


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Winterblend of E85 which is E75.


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Gulfstream said:


> 600awhp with 26% drivetrainloss would be some 756bhp... not sure I'm quite there yet. Will be interesting to see what Arnolds PPT5935R can do.


Where did you come up with 26%?


----------



## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Haha I thought w awd you had a 15-ish % drive train loss. Also thought you were running e85.


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

20v master said:


> Where did you come up with 26%?


I did some searching on the good ol interwebforums where they guys run Haldex gen 1. Albeit I will lock it permanently in 50/50 with my controller so we will see.

Buddy here in Sweden measured 23% loss on his A3 haldex gen 1.


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

schwartzmagic said:


> Haha I thought w awd you had a 15-ish % drive train loss. Also thought you were running e85.


Tbh I have not measured the drivetrainloss in this haldex car yet. This will be the first dyno with awd. I do run E85 but we don't get 85% ethanol in the winter because of coldstarts. The gas companies make a wintermix with more gasonline which is around 75% ethanol. 

I did a testrun at 35psi tonight in 4th and I get 20c rise in IAT so I think it's time for a new IC. I have a Garret 550 core so that makes perfect sense.


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Gulfstream said:


> I did some searching on the good ol interwebforums where they guys run Haldex gen 1. Albeit I will lock it permanently in 50/50 with my controller so we will see.
> 
> Buddy here in Sweden measured 23% loss on his A3 haldex gen 1.



Measured how? And if he measured 23%, why did you reference 26% above? The only way to do this accurately would be with an engine dyno and a load bearing chassis dyno. The reason I state the obvious is that the TYPE of chassis dyno will have an affect on those numbers, so it's not a clear cut matter of run on engine dyno, then chassis, and calculate losses.


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

20v master said:


> Measured how? And if he measured 23%, why did you reference 26% above? The only way to do this accurately would be with an engine dyno and a load bearing chassis dyno. The reason I state the obvious is that the TYPE of chassis dyno will have an affect on those numbers, so it's not a clear cut matter of run on engine dyno, then chassis, and calculate losses.


He measured in a roller, like I go to on Monday. I referred to 26% because I searched for a while at different forums and found several ppl reporting 26% while I have only one measurement here who report 23%. I also read 20% on other forums so I' only guesstimate at this point. I know ideal way to get drivetrain loss is what you said about a hubdyno but I don't have this type available until late summer so this will have to do.

I think it will be interesting to compare fwd and permanent 50/50. Will give a good indication.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

It's always fun to guess:

FWD 761 @ 35PSI
AWD 618 @ 35PSI

FWD 559 @ 25 PSI
AWD 466 @ 25PSI


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I like your optimism 1.8T_BT :wave:



My guess:

25psi:

FWD 510, AWD 430



35psi:

FWD 650, AWD 570


:beer:


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

We'll all find out soon enough.


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> We'll all find out soon enough.


Agreed. If Arnolds billet 35R wheel is anything like his billet 30R wheel this could be interesting.


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Exactly. I shot low cos I like to be surprised lol


----------



## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

I made my guestimates based on my car. 2.0L, large intake manifold, cams, large tb, ppt stainless exhaust mani, e85 528whp @ 22 psi. Figured at 25 your motor has to make at least 550 ish minus dt loss of close to 15 has to be close to 500awhp... especially with that trick ppt turbo. Can't wait to see your dyno.


----------



## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Vegeta Gti said:


> Exactly. I shot low cos I like to be surprised lol


I kind of did that when I dynoed. I was expecting 450 whp at around 22. When I saw 372 at 10 and 500 at 15 I was blown away lol

Gotta love e85


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Gulfstream said:


> I think it will be interesting to compare fwd and permanent 50/50. Will give a good indication.


It will, but it will only show the added loss of the rear drivetrain. Still interesting, but won't tell you how much the transmission/front axles/wheels are absorbing. Good luck!


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

20v master said:


> It will, but it will only show the added loss of the rear drivetrain. Still interesting, but won't tell you how much the transmission/front axles/wheels are absorbing. Good luck!


Cheers :beer:

Just to turn down expectations a little, buddy with the A3 got 288awhp at 30psi with a T25 3076R in this dyno.... I have wintermix of E85 in the tank (E75) and my Garrett 550 IC core might be too small. There, I said it. Low expectations.

opcorn:


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

T25......your funny. That's a fukn lava slinging coke fest. 

My awic is rated for 400.....but there are ways. I'm making my new one next week.


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Btw..get that ****ty fuel out. 

Remember how we figured low, people said 400 or 450 wad impossible. ..then look what we made lol.

It'll be a fat powerband regardless


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> Btw..get that ****ty fuel out.
> 
> Remember how we figured low, people said 400 or 450 wad impossible. ..then look what we made lol.
> 
> It'll be a fat powerband regardless


I have to wait until the gas stations start selling summer mix of E85 again. Only thing I could do is buy a barrel of race E85 for mega bucks. Meh..


----------



## Zowexx (Sep 23, 2013)

Just to clear a few things out, my 3076 hybrid china replica journal bearing piece of crap turbo I think was to much of a hybrid so it worked against itself all the time. But bought it for 230 usd so im what could u expect  but yes vegeta it was a lava canon


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

T25..that's the killer. 

Go big or go home O!!!


----------



## Zowexx (Sep 23, 2013)

Never more t25...


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Back from the dyno. It was a Superflow roller with 4 individual rollers. Seems legit.




























First pull was at 25psi with non-resistor plugs and only FWD:










Then I swapped plugs to resistored plugs at same gap. Same boost and map. FWD:










Happy with that I engaged the Haldex and locked it 50/50 with the CRC Controller. Still 25psi and same map as the two first pulls:











Last pull was all out 35psi with Haldex locked 50/50:










Thats 637AWHP at 35psi and at 25psi there was only 9whp loss from FWD to AWD (locked 50/50). Haldex FTW... impressed.

Peak hp is just before 8k so it seems I set the cam advance pretty good. Arnolds PPT5935R is perfect for this setup :heart:

IAT went to 51c at the 35psi pull so a bigger IC is badly needed.


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)




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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Sweet. :beer:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Wow 

Wicked results mate must be an animal with all that traction now, also very happy and impressed with the lack of difference in drivetrain losses....like you say Haldex FTW :beer:


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Damn, that's impressive


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Awesome numbers Oistein! 

With all that power, time to bring some fat rubber onboard -- I wouldn't trust myself with that beast unless rocking some 315 or 335 sticky race tires. NEXT PROJECT!!!


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Cheers guys. This thing is a weapon now. Hats off to the ppt5935R turbo :thumbup::beer::beer::beer::beer:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Awesome numbers Oistein!
> 
> With all that power, time to bring some fat rubber onboard -- I wouldn't trust myself with that beast unless rocking some 315 or 335 sticky race tires. NEXT PROJECT!!!


Yeah, I will do a trackday next weekend at Rudskogen. I run 25psi map then to keep temps under control. 225 slicks up front and R888 rear is ok. I will prolly do what you say down the road tho :beer:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

A fat beautiful and useful powerband.

Outfuknstanding sir.


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## [email protected] Motorsports (Sep 24, 2013)

Damn crazy man!
Great job :thumbup:

This is the Holy Grail 

Can we get this bad boy stickied...?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

[email protected] Motorsports said:


> Damn crazy man!
> Great job :thumbup:
> 
> This is the Holy Grail
> ...


Tnx Don. I think it must be the SEM intake


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Here is the Eurodyne log from the 35psi pull:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1ajz5DON9Li_k7JnifAN9qTLPPw3ON_EoHW-zznMRu1Q/edit?usp=sharing


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## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

Damn... I can only imagine!
That is somewhat the double the HP I have right now, and I think it's powerfull ahahah

Really good numbers, and now we all need to see this thing putting some Porsches apart  :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## [email protected] Motorsports (Sep 24, 2013)

HidRo said:


> Damn... I can only imagine!
> That is somewhat the double the HP I have right now, and I think it's powerfull ahahah
> 
> Really good numbers, and now we all need to see this thing putting some Porsches apart  :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


That's what I'm saying


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

That combination of parts  .

I think this is my next turbo when I finally go awd as well.


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> That combination of parts  .
> 
> I think this is my next turbo when I finally go awd as well.


I hear Ya there Chris 


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)




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## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

Holy crap! That's amazing...

Wow.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Got a trackday on the 18th and 19th. Fun days :wave:


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

That intercooler is working hard for sure


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Congrats again Oistein! Now the real question is how does it compare to the previous turbo? How is the transient response especially during shifting?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

18T_BT said:


> Congrats again Oistein! Now the real question is how does it compare to the previous turbo? How is the transient response especially during shifting?


Cheers. :beer:

Well, the billet 30R is great if you are on 1.8l displacement and non E85. Probably the best street turbo for the 1.8t imo. If you do like me and stroke it to 2l, run cams, E85 and focus the build on trackdays I'd just skip right to the 5935r. 

I did some testing last year with the 5935r and my Haldex controller where you get an idea of the transient response:


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## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

Always nice to see this again  The first shiiuuuu after the first save was a ton of weight being lifted out of the chest, right? ehheeh
The gearbox seems to be really really close.
What ratios does that have?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

HidRo said:


> Always nice to see this again  The first shiiuuuu after the first save was a ton of weight being lifted out of the chest, right? ehheeh
> The gearbox seems to be really really close.
> What ratios does that have?


Yeah, first save was sweet. Second attempt to save which almost planted me in the barriers made me drop an egg ic: I never race in the wet but it was raining ALL weekend and I HAD to do some testing... 

You're correct. The gearbox is oem ratio and it's way too close for the power in the engine. On the bucket list.


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## [email protected] (Dec 18, 2009)

I said you would make 700 at the flywheel

What are your full plans for your gearbox? opcorn:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> I said you would make 700 at the flywheel
> 
> What are your full plans for your gearbox? opcorn:


Time and money permitting I'll get some straight cut gears where I'll have 230km/h at 8k rpm in 4th. That would suit me perfect :beer:

I already have a Peloquin in the front and rear diff.


----------



## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

Maybe you have covered this, but your car makes such little noise.
What exhaust system do you have? How many mufflers you have, etc? Pipe size.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

HidRo said:


> Maybe you have covered this, but your car makes such little noise.
> What exhaust system do you have? How many mufflers you have, etc? Pipe size.


In fact it's a bit on the noisy side. I struggle to scrape under 100db at 4000rpm which is the limit for trackdays. 

I have a custom 3" turbo back with a mid silencer and a rear straight turbo muff.


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Ferrea valves are stock size or +1mm?


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Stock size. Head is bigport AGU which has been further ported to match exhaust gasket. Also intake runners have some porting done.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Congrats brotha! I knew the car was going to make some good power. Ha! I can't wait to finish getting the fittings and second 044 for my surge tank. Then it's time to crank up the fuel pressure, boost and get back to the dyno.


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## KmosK04 (Dec 18, 2012)

Great work mate!


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

schwartzmagic said:


> Congrats brotha! I knew the car was going to make some good power. Ha! I can't wait to finish getting the fittings and second 044 for my surge tank. Then it's time to crank up the fuel pressure, boost and get back to the dyno.


Cheers :beer:

You did make a very educated guesstimate yeah :wave: 

I decided to get a Kenne-Bell Boost a Pump unit which boost pump voltage to 17,5V when I boost more than 3psi. It actually works great. I went from 99% duty at 35psi to 86% on a Walbro 450lph pump. I looked the at pump capacities at the boost levels I ran with 3bar base pressure and even without the pressure loss through the fuellines it would not move enough fuel. Still can't believe how well this bap unit works :heart:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

I need this and a bigger pump


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Changed oil in the motor and gearbox. Fuchs Racing 15W-50 ester oil in the motor and Millers 75W-110 in the gearbox. The old oil in the gearbox was only 8 months old but was pitch black. No metal on the magnets.











Got new Ferodo DS2500 pads all around, new 330x28 rotors and bellhousings up front and bled the brakes dot 5.1:




















Ready for trackday now :thumbup:


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## brwmogazos (Oct 12, 2011)

Great results!!!!

Nice to see your effort, time, money, and wise :beer:selection of parts has worked great with your new setup!!!


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

cheers :beer:

Now we need to see how it works on a track :wave:


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

How much ester oil did you measure from the gearbox change?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

The ester oil went into the engine. Millers 75w110 synthetic in the gearbox and it took 2.4L.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Back from a trackday. OK, the engine is incredible, the handling with camber and toe makes the car neutral with slight oversteer in most conditions which is highly desirable... BUT, as you can see from my video I started to loose my gears. Couldn't find 3rd then 4th and so on. When I returned to the depot and parked it I couldn't disengage the clutch at all. With engine off I could engage all gears with no problems but with engine running it started to grind and move forward.. I'm thinking air in the hydraulic system between master and slave. I did hear some pneumatic noise from the clutch pedal a few days ago without bothering too much with it. Master cylinder is original and have 140k miles on it. I plan to change that and bleed the slave. How important is it to use a pressurized bleed such as vag recommends? 

The black Porsche is a 650hp 997 GT2 RS :heart:. Plenty of 991 GT3 cars on the track but as you can see from the vid... not a whole lot I could do about that. 

At least I have these problems locally before I travel to Germany :beer:

















Eye candi:


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## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

Sooooo cool man!! So, you loose the gears after you "warm up" the gearbox? I have the same. it will start to bite lower and lower with "heat" and eventually I'll not be able to change gears easy.
But the car sounds mean ehehe


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

HidRo said:


> Sooooo cool man!! So, you loose the gears after you "warm up" the gearbox? I have the same. it will start to bite lower and lower with "heat" and eventually I'll not be able to change gears easy.
> But the car sounds mean ehehe


Nah, I can't engage anything now. I drove home with no clutch. Just rev matched the synchro. Suspect bad slave or master cylinder.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Sorry to hear about the gearbox, at least you had some positives with the suspension's handling and the engine.

You need to drive that thing like an AWD now, once you're near the apex, the throttle should be like a loaded gun ready to unleash as you unwind the steering. Point and shoot is the name of the game with AWD. And way way way too much coasting at the end of the front straights. You should be on the gas up until you enter your braking zone, I think you're underestimating the engine-braking ability (especially with AWD). 

What are your plans now that the box has kicked the bucket on you?


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Marcus_Aurelius;87546089
You need to drive that thing like an AWD now said:


> correct . i agree :thumbup:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Yeah I have to get used to the benefits of awd. Testing little by little to find out how far I can push it before it slips. As you can see from the vid I didn't push too hard and that's bcs all my attention went into the gearbox. 

I plan to change the master cyl and do a proper bleed. If no bueno the box comes off to see the slave and inspect the clutch. 

Do you guys use pressure bleeder or just pump the pedal?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Found this neat bleeder tool locally. Hook it up to your hydraulic reservoir then to a tire with like 30psi and then bleed the slave. :beer:


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Hope all it needs is a bleed. I'm sure you'd rather not have to drop gearbox


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## AmIdYfReAk (Nov 8, 2006)

When those things give me issues to bleed, i let them drain dry then push brake fluid up the bleed port with a horse syringe till it gets to the res, close the bleed port and bleed normally.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I'll undo the startermotor tomorrow and look for leaks from the slave.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

have you done the mk5 shim on your 02m?

i've done it several times, and it's so common and people don't know and never get it fixed.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

No, I have no shims in the box...

This one you mean?

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5699167-NLS-02M-clutch-shim-kit-now-for-sale!


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

I believer outs on ecs for Cheaper but yes. 

Also I think ecs has a nice bleeder setup or the all metal clutch delay valve


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

*it's


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I don't have a black rubber plate on my 02M. It's all metal so I don't think I can use these shims...


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Wtffff


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Well, it was dry inside the bellhousing so that made me believe the slave is not leaking. I couldn't hear or see problems with the master so I went and got the pressure bleeder and bled it 3 times. Disco! Now it works like normal again. 

Almost normal that is, pretty sure the syncro's are all gone. It start to grind as soon as I try to engage a gear at rpm higher than idle. 

Whats next?


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## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

Maybe it's not pushing the clutch far enough.
Try to rev it to the max in 1st, with the pedal down, and see if it hops forward.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Had my mechanic look at it. He think a plate has warped in the clutch. Either flywheel or pressure plate. So I need a new clutch. Also notice a vibration around 1300rpm which wasn't there before.

I guess a FX500 with new flywheel. Bad times man. :banghead:


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Why not get a twin disc?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Why not get a twin disc?


Arnold recommend single disk. Just ordered it. 

Also changing master and slave. Can't have this happen again.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Don't need a twin disc. Not launching. The fx500 is a stout clutch


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Yeah, I don't do launches. This is a trackday car so I think the FX500 should sort it.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Out with the old - in with the new:












This is a genious way to bleed the clutch:


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Haha. I like your pressure source 🏻🏻


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## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

One-Eight GTI said:


> Haha. I like your pressure source 🏻🏻
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


X2


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Dunlop slicks come in handy both on and off track :beer:


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

very clever in both comment and usage :laugh:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

New clutch is in. FX500. One of the springs came loose on the old one. No bueno.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Ouch. FFFUUUKKK


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

I'm surprised you aren't using a solid hub disc considering its a track car. 1 less thing to fail


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Yeah, I'm going with Arnolds recommendation on that one. He talked with CM and they said go with a sprung clutch....


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Is the fx500 just rated for more hp or is there another benefit over the six puck fx400


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I couldn't say. I needed a clutch "yesterday" and didn't have much time to research them. I was happy with my CM FX400 which lasted for 4-5 years with a lot of beating and high torque. 

I did see the FX500 is rated 200-400% over oem and the 400 is 170% over oem. 

The specific FX500 I got also had springs.


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Yeah I love my fx400. Very good clutch, must of been the 5935r that did the fx400 in for you and that your pushing the rear tires also


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Well, considering how I've been driving for the last 5 years on and off track I'd say CM makes top end clutches. :beer:


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## KmosK04 (Dec 18, 2012)

Perfect work as always! Good luck mate!


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Cheers! New clutch is mint. Can't wait for the next trackday on the 24th. Finally I can push the car with the haldex setup. 

The gearbox main shift had zero play so bearing should be ok.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

I switched to the segmented 8 fx400 from 6 puck


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I went back to 6 puck with the new FX500.


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## brwmogazos (Oct 12, 2011)

That reminds me of my CM Fx300 after just 5000 kms...2nd gear 1.3bar of boost, wheelspin...and then it wouldnt shift.






Sent it back to CM and asked for a closed dome spring hub and i sold it later.

Bought from Arnold a 6puck Clutch Net set which had a solid spring hub installed...it also needs more pedal pressure to dissengage.







But the vibration is untolerable so back to CM, bought an FX400 8 puck and ordered it with a solid spring hub (better be on the safe side) hoping it will be a better daily driver (havent had it installed yet)


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

My fx400 got 80k...I killed it, probably still have it...or more recently upgraded. 
I got my 6 puck fx400 if anyone needs one. 12k on it. Clutch and pp


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

New IC on board. 3" on cold side. Garret 800 core.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

You can't see it unless you know it's there. Mission complete :beer:


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## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

Gulfstream said:


> You can't see it unless you know it's there. Mission complete :beer:


:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Damn that core is huge. Like it 🏻🏻


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

nice...


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

New IC is fantastic. I have 6c IAT rise during a pull where I had 30+c rise before.

Garrett 550 vs 800 core. 

The clutch is good now with no slip after 1000km+ stop and go break-in driving. So I go back and test at a trackday tomorrow :wave:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

A 6*C delta is awesome, if it can stay consistent on extended duty you've got yourself a winner. :thumbup:

PS: What's the weight on that IC?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> A 6*C delta is awesome, if it can stay consistent on extended duty you've got yourself a winner. :thumbup:
> 
> PS: What's the weight on that IC?


I'll keep an eye on the iat tomorrow during racing. 

About the weight I think Arnold might be better to ask as I didn't weight it. It didn't feel much heavier than the old one.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

new Clutchmasters FX500 lasted 4mins on the track before it exploded.... 

I'll gather what I got of video and post it. Pretty tired of these poor quality clutches now...


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Wow, that sucks man. Time for a serious clutch that is meant for all that power and prolonged abuse... which could mean looking outside of the 1.8t drag knowledge base.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Not sure Clutchmasters will warrant it. 

On the video I can see from the lambda when it start to slip. 40sec later it disintegrates. 


The FX400 lasted several years.... surprising. Well, I do have a lot more power now and awd put much more load on the clutch. 

What are the most badass 240mm clutches for our cars?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

This is all I got.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Very interesting as people are using that clutch with more torque in the same drive train.

It be time for a dedicated road course clutch. Unsprung homie. Daily driving ability is becoming a thing of your past.

Seems the clutch plate can't take it.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> Very interesting as people are using that clutch with more torque in the same drive train.
> 
> It be time for a dedicated road course clutch. Unsprung homie. Daily driving ability is becoming a thing of your past.
> 
> Seems the clutch plate can't take it.


idk. The clutch is rated much higher than what I put through it so based on what CM say it SHOULD be good. Let's see what CM have to say about this.

Hopefully they stand by their product.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

I hope so too. They've always been awesome to me. If you were closer, aka...in the states. ...I could ask a couple people for help. 

Race car problems lol


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Twin disc with a better pressure plate design


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> twin disc with a better pressure plate design


fx850 ?


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Gulfstream said:


> fx850 ?


That has the most holding power. The 725 would probably also work


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I suspect I just got a bad example as my old FX400 lasted for years. Albeit being fwd only...


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Gulfstream said:


> I suspect I just got a bad example as my old FX400 lasted for years. Albeit being fwd only...


Didn't you have less power back then?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Didn't you have less power back then?


yeah, less power but more peak torque at lower rpm.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

I still think a non sprung 4 puck is a better choice and worth a talk to CM than jumping up to a 725....but I'm not saying don't do it either. Something seems wrong. 

We have a big clutch in the 02m....shouldn't be failing like this with such a nice and we'll made product.


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Wow man that sucks bro.
glad they will warrant it .:thumbup: 
as much $ you already put on that thing. 

too much power man..
to be honest . i never understood why you decided to add so much more power for a trackcar.
i know you did the awd conversion . but 400whp wouldve been very useful power for your set up on track.

its unusable power!!

i remember telling Vegeta the same about his mk1 on track video.
You shouldn't be cruising on track. ''you either on the gas or on the brakes ''
and i see you cruising a lot .

back the power down! 

my 2cents 

GL:beer::beer:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Well, we don't know if they will warrant it yet. As for backing down on the power just won't happen. I'm still at 25psi the engine just breathe a lot better making more power. 

I started my first hotlap when the clutch broke and you don't race on warmup laps hence cruising towards the corners. 

Don't worry. I know how to abuse a trackday car but I also know about warmup and cool down laps.


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Def warm up, heat in the tires, operating temp achieved. 

I cruisr because I like to leave space to go harder. And having pretty in reserve is fun. 

I hope they warranty it O


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I hope they put the warranty towards a 850 super single. This car seems to need it...


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)




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## GolfPuttPutt (Sep 27, 2013)

I didn't read the whole thread so I may be talking out my ass but, boost management by gear selection to control that wheelspin maybe?


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

It's awd. ....


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Vegeta Gti said:


> It's awd. ....


And that means it never breaks traction with 670AWHP? No.


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

When I race during trackdays I use a 25psi map where I have 535awhp and it wont brake loose with R888 in the back and slicks up front. 

640awhp at 35psi WILL brake loose with 4 R888 if tarmac is less than perfect.


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Hence it's a rarity, ands out jay wouldn't be needed. Keeping the rpms up is better them chopping them


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

1.7bar and 25psi seems to be the golden level with my motor. Any more boost and it gets HOT in a hurry. Any less and temperature is same same. 

Now, as I have to pull the box AGAIN I decided I might as well get a tdi box with stronger and slightly longer gears. Box is 02M FBS and will net me 250kph where I have 210kph at 8k rpm in 4th gear with my current box. Perfect. 

I'll also do the steel forks and move over the Peloquin :heart:


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)




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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> A 6*C delta is awesome, if it can stay consistent on extended duty you've got yourself a winner. :thumbup:
> 
> PS: What's the weight on that IC?


Just to reply to the iat while racing I recorded minimum 20c and maximum 31c once I got up to race temperature. That's a little better than close to 60c iat with old IC. WHAT a difference it made.. :thumbup:


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

First of all - sorry CM :wave:

The clutch slipped as a result of some oil which misteriously made it's way to the pressure plate. Slave cylinder is dry as well as bellhousing.

Now to the interesting part:

The 2.0 FSI AZG crankshaft I use have broken in half and made a mess around cyl 4. LUCKILY for me all the con rods are ok as well as cyl 4 piston. Just scraped it briefly and no real damage. Oil squirter in cyl 4 is gone and was chilling in the sump. Oil pump took some metal debris and is badly worn. 

Nuts to think I drove the car fromt he trackday and home which is a 2.5hrs drive with the crankshaft broken in half... testament to the other engine parts. 

I need a 2.0 TFSI crank, new oil pump, bearings and some bolts. :thumbup:





























































Arnold, I need some parts..


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Damn, you're really finding the stress limit of components with the increased power. Hopefully you can bullet-proof everything quickly enough not waste a season due to failures.


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Damn, you're really finding the stress limit of components with the increased power. Hopefully you can bullet-proof everything quickly enough not waste a season due to failures.


Yeah, should have listened to the 20v - master and not INA in this case. Lesson learned. 


Ordered a 2.0 tfsi part nr 06A105021AR from Germany now and will get all the other stuff from my man Arnold. 

Incredible to think I drove it for almost 3 hrs with a split crank.... :facepalm:


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

AZG is the cast crank right?

Crazy that you made it home.


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

AZG is the cast 2.0 FSI crank yes.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Gulfstream said:


> Yeah, should have listened to the 20v - master and not INA in this case. Lesson learned.
> 
> Incredible to think I drove it for almost 3 hrs with a split crank.... :facepalm:


Maybe, maybe not. You've substaintially increased the power that it was holding after you had it repaired the first time, right? You said it was wearing the middle main bearing before, and then had the crank fixed, but now the damage is on the #4 counterweights. I'm confused how you're saying you drove for 3 hours with a crank broken. It looks like it was just wearing away on the trigger wheel bolts against the block and hadn't actually split. Post some more carnage pics once it's all torn apart. Sucks but at least it didn't destroy the whole motor. :thumbup:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

20v master said:


> Maybe, maybe not. You've substaintially increased the power that it was holding after you had it repaired the first time, right? You said it was wearing the middle main bearing before, and then had the crank fixed, but now the damage is on the #4 counterweights. I'm confused how you're saying you drove for 3 hours with a crank broken. It looks like it was just wearing away on the trigger wheel bolts against the block and hadn't actually split. Post some more carnage pics once it's all torn apart. Sucks but at least it didn't destroy the whole motor. :thumbup:


I have more power at higher rpm but less torque at lower rpm than before. Aparently this cast crankshaft is only good for NA cars. 

When we pulled the gearbox we saw the flywheel was completely loose. So the last part of the crankshaft between rod #4 and triggerwheel har shared completely off. Look at the video.

I drove it like that from the track as I thought it was the new clutch which also slipped. 











Will post more pics next week when we install the forged crank.


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

That's why your crank trigger wheel looks different I just assumed you had the fsi forged crank. Surprised it made it home in that condition


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Wow  that sucks, but at least the carnage didn't spread to the whole motor It's incredible you were able to drive home like that!


I know many think the cast crank is good enough, but most building 2.0L's on this forum are FWD and not coming close to this power level. Since you had this motor in a FWD car for awhile without the crank snapping in half you've proven it's longevity there. I'm thinking FWD just spins tires half the time and our haldex cars apply the power to the ground causing the drivetrain to find the next weakest link.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Yeah, knowing what I know now I'd never recommend anyone else a cast crank. You're just at the ragged edge even with a 3071 and fwd. Why risk it? I think carnage pics of the crank will be revealing. 

Reviewing what happened I think I got away easy. This happened during engine breaking. Imagine it broke under boost.... When I drove it home I was smoooooth no sudden movements in any directions.


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Ouch!! $$


Sorry man


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Just removing the weak links. :laugh:


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

Gulfstream said:


> Just removing the weak links. :laugh:


Great way to look at it - & like the others have said... glad the carnage didn't spread further!


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

All_Euro said:


> Great way to look at it - & like the others have said... glad the carnage didn't spread further!


Totally. If the crank have to brake I guess that's where it will happen. The counterweight just before the trigger wheel. Would make sense this area have the most metal fatigue. 

I should buy a lottery ticket :wave:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

My old trigger wheel is toothed and the new one is window style. Can someone confirm 100% that I will not have any problems with the sensor? The sensor is from a narrowband loom and my ECU is wideband BAM.


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## superkarl (Dec 18, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> My old trigger wheel is toothed and the new one is window style. Can someone confirm 100% that I will not have any problems with the sensor? The sensor is from a narrowband loom and my ECU is wideband BAM.


No you shouldn't have a problem. I too switched from window to tooth


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Gulfstream said:


> My old trigger wheel is toothed and the new one is window style. Can someone confirm 100% that I will not have any problems with the sensor? The sensor is from a narrowband loom and my ECU is wideband BAM.


I was told way back years ago that the older sensors would only read toothed, newer would read both. I don't know where the line between old and new is though. I never had a problem with either wheel but that was always on AWP ECU and sensor. 

Question about your ECU though: you're running the BAM wideband ECU, but do you have the OEM EGT sensor, and the associated harness from the BAM setup? Or are you only using the ECU? If only the ECU, are you using an AWP Maestro file on it? I have a BAM ECU but haven't used it in any of my AMU narrowband cars yet, and wasn't sure if you could put AWP files on it. Thanks in advance.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

20v master said:


> I was told way back years ago that the older sensors would only read toothed, newer would read both. I don't know where the line between old and new is though. I never had a problem with either wheel but that was always on AWP ECU and sensor.
> 
> Question about your ECU though: you're running the BAM wideband ECU, but do you have the OEM EGT sensor, and the associated harness from the BAM setup? Or are you only using the ECU? If only the ECU, are you using an AWP Maestro file on it? I have a BAM ECU but haven't used it in any of my AMU narrowband cars yet, and wasn't sure if you could put AWP files on it. Thanks in advance.




Yeah, I've heard from several ppl toothed and window triggerwheel can be mixed with no problems. On my block I have the old sensor (2001) so I'll go ahead and see what happen. If no dice I'll get a new sensor.

I did have the BAM oem EGT sensor back on my BAM wideband loom and AWP maestro flashed on the ECU but maestro couldn't read the sensor. On the Haldex build I just removed the oem EGT sensor as it cannot be utilized and now I use a standalone gauge.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Gulfstream said:


> Yeah, I've heard from several ppl toothed and window triggerwheel can be mixed with no problems. On my block I have the old sensor (2001) so I'll go ahead and see what happen. If no dice I'll get a new sensor.
> 
> I did have the BAM oem EGT sensor back on my BAM wideband loom and AWP maestro flashed on the ECU but maestro couldn't read the sensor. On the Haldex build I just removed the oem EGT sensor as it cannot be utilized and now I use a standalone gauge.


Was really just wanting to know if AWP files work BAM ECU. Sounds like I'm good there. And yeah, if the sensor won't read, much easier to change the sensor at that point, but I _think_ you'll be fine. :thumbup:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

20v master said:


> Was really just wanting to know if AWP files work BAM ECU. Sounds like I'm good there. And yeah, if the sensor won't read, much easier to change the sensor at that point, but I _think_ you'll be fine. :thumbup:


Funny thing is I tested the base map for the 225hp wideband ECU. I think it's called BEA in Meastro but on my BAM ecu it won't prime the fuelpump so I have to use AWP files.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Got a new tdi gearbox with slightly longer gears. Added steel forks and moved over the peloquin diff.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

:thumbup::thumbup:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

More problems


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Cracked main cap?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

yup. 

That means new motor. SO, I'll pull it tomorrow and look for more faults. 

Not exactly what I had hoped... :banghead:


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Gulfstream said:


> yup.
> 
> That means new motor. SO, I'll pull it tomorrow and look for more faults.
> 
> Not exactly what I had hoped... :banghead:


Can't you just order billet main caps and have them machined to fit?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I talked with a machineshop. To do that I still have to pull the motor to have them machined. Cheaper just to get a new block and bore it again. 

Also, the block I have now might be compromised.


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## Don® (Oct 11, 2011)

Maybe the crank wasn't exactly straight after it was fixed...?


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## un1ko (Apr 6, 2004)

Oh man that sucks!!! Sorry to hear that!!


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## craigalangibson (Dec 27, 2003)

Gulfstream said:


> Got a new tdi gearbox with slightly longer gears. Added steel forks and moved over the peloquin diff.


What transmission code do you have?

I've got a 2.0T stroker motor, a PagParts GTX3071 turbo kit and have a couple of 02Ms that I've been building. I've heard of using TDI or Euro TDI gears. I'm wondering if I could benefit from TDI gears with my setup to build boost sooner or keep the car in boost a little longer.


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Oh wow, that royally sucks


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

craigalangibson said:


> What transmission code do you have?
> 
> I've got a 2.0T stroker motor, a PagParts GTX3071 turbo kit and have a couple of 02Ms that I've been building. I've heard of using TDI or Euro TDI gears. I'm wondering if I could benefit from TDI gears with my setup to build boost sooner or keep the car in boost a little longer.


FBS


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Don® said:


> Maybe the crank wasn't exactly straight after it was fixed...?


Maybe it was still bent or got bent right away, maybe it was the oem stretch bolts I had on the main caps, maybe it was the recent crank failure .... Guess we will see when I pull the bearings. The center ones where more worn that the outer ones. It's cap nr 2 which took a crap here. 


I got a "new" AGU motor now which we will strip down this weekend and ship it off to bore together with the rods and pistons which need a close inspection.


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## craigalangibson (Dec 27, 2003)

Gulfstream said:


> FBS


Thanks! The LSD threw me off, I didn't realize they were that much different than FWD transmissions LSDs.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Gtx spools like molasses


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

More problems



















Looks like they are Ok but will do a leak test


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Pistons kissed the exhaust valves, with #4 being the worst?  Wasn't the crank broken on that end?


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Geez all kinds of BS, this sucks :thumbdown: 

Are you planning to "go for it" with the new engine at all, as in, are you going to do any upgrades compared to what you were running?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)




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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Yes, strike in 4 is worst. I already bought the forged crank and another block.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I'll rebuild it stronger than ever. And I will probably NEVER go above 25psi. 

:laugh:


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## Don® (Oct 11, 2011)

:laugh:


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## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

Damn.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Damn dude sucks to see/hear. I feel your pain tho lol

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

It's only car parts. No harm done. Got a new 06A block which I'll bore to 83mm again and all the other parts are being inspected for trueness this week. 

Everything will be billet and /or pinned from now on


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Are you gonna add a few more holes for more flywheel bolts while it's all apart? Or is that more a problem with launching


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Not heard of any problems with the fly bolts. I'll add two pins to the timing gear and torque it down with a 12.9 bolt. Already have a forged tfsi crank so the two obvious errors I could see have been corrected.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Run ARP flywheel bolts

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Already have them. Arp everywhere.


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## tutuur (Apr 11, 2013)

My god this looks bad! atleast now we know what a cast crank can hold, or better, can't hold 

What rods are you using if i may ask? INT's?

Good luck with building the new engine!


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

tutuur said:


> My god this looks bad! atleast now we know what a cast crank can hold, or better, can't hold
> 
> What rods are you using if i may ask? INT's?
> 
> Good luck with building the new engine!


I use IE rods with 20mm wristpins.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

To recap :beer:


Things which went wrong:

Crank broke
Vibrations took out nr. 2 main cap
Timing wheel got kicked out of place
Pistons got introduced to exhaust valves because of the timing gear


Corrections:

FORGED crank
ARP bolts for everything
Two pins through timing gear
Friction discs between timing gear and crank as well as behind flywheel


Can anyone think of something else which can be improved at this point?


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Gulfstream said:


> To recap :beer:
> 
> 
> Things which went wrong:
> ...


spot weld the trigger wheel bolts.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> spot weld the trigger wheel bolts.


Tnx forgot to mention that :thumbup:


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Only thing that could make it even more bullet proof is having a machine shop thread more holes through flywheel and crank so you have more bolts to hold the flywheel in place. Don't know why we only have six bolts. Should be like the vr6


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

It's a valid point. I'll have a shop look at it. That said I use ARP and loctite on those bolts and always been tight for me. Even when the crank was in two and whole clutch was flopping around.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Some have the crank machined for 10 bolts. I believe F F E does this.

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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> spot weld the trigger wheel bolts.


We did this on my motor



















We also spot welded the oil pump bolt.










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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Great tips. Triggerwheel was planned but I can see how tacking the oil pump bolt would be a good idea.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Got a new motor, 06A AGU, stripped it down, handed the block over to acid bath, sandblasting and then I painted it. Had to throw some oil at is because after the acid bath it started to rust again immediately. 


Next is bore it to 83mm and match it to my other parts :thumbup:


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

What type of paint do you use on the block?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I used an auto-K special motor paint direct on bare metal. Got rock hard in 1hr.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Gulfstream said:


> Got a new motor, 06A AGU, stripped it down, handed the block over to acid bath, sandblasting and then I painted it. Had to throw some oil at is because after the acid bath it started to rust again immediately.
> 
> 
> Next is bore it to 83mm and match it to my other parts


 

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

83mm bored block back in the car. Sort of...


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Yeessa


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## ticketed2much (Feb 18, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> 83mm bored block back in the car. Sort of...


Oh, going mid engine this time? Good luck, nice build.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Cheers. No, still front engine and awd.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Got all parts to rebuild now. New forged crankshaft has been balanced and they took 10grams out of it. 5grams from two different places. They said tolerance was 15grams so it was within but not completely perfect. 

Will bolt together engine tomorrow and stomp it in the car when we get time in a lift :wave:


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Good to hear  

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

That was a total build. New bored block, crank, timing gear, oil pump, bearings, pistonrings, bolts, exhaust valves....


Two pins in timing gear and forged 2.0tfsi crank are the major upgrades.


Also new tdi gearbox with Peloquin diff....


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Jesus lol... I kinda know the pain when I had to rebuild my motor because of a spun bearing. Happy with my 2.0L stroker for now.  

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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Back to tdi box?


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

TDI 02M, no?

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Yeah, it's a 02M tdi haldex box with slightly longer gears than before. I'll have 250kph at 8200rpm instead of 210kph in 4th gear. At the end of most straights on tracks I have around 220-240kph so the tdi gearing is perfect.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Nice... I'll have to reach out to you when I need to source one of those for a future haldex project or swap on my GLI  

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I already had that discussion with Cris. The shipping from EU to US don't make it cost effective. Might as well source custom gears in the US.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gosh I need one of those Euro TDI 02M in my life. Why can't you just strap one on your back the next time you come visit the Statue of Liberty, I'll gladly relieve you from the extra weight.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

I have a friend that works for a european shipping company so I'm not too worried about the costs.  

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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Gosh I need one of those Euro TDI 02M in my life. Why can't you just strap one on your back the next time you come visit the Statue of Liberty, I'll gladly relieve you from the extra weight.


Me too lol

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I can help you guys source a 02M tdi box, that's not a problem. Shipping however is :beer:


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

So we're good then. I have shipping figured out and you 02M TDI box.  

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Have a look at this excel sheet with different VAG gearbox ratios. I will run 02M FBS Haldex box.


https://truck.it/p/6Fy2i1SP1O


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

How can a brother squeeze in with the shipping hook up?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Began to assemble everything. Need to rotate the squirters some before we continue.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

Gulfstream said:


>


What did your backside (#3 side) thrust bearing look like?

Could the *uniform* scrap marks on counter weight around rod journal,where it broke indicate crank walk?


edit: nvm, I'm confusing that rod journal with a main journal.


But I would like some clarification around which crank this is. 

AZG = 2002+ MK4 2.0L NA (not FSI)
And AZG trigger wheel is the same as an AWP trigger wheel.
So, things aren't quite matching up. Did you swap your trigger wheel onto this crank?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

All bearings where badly worn. Cast crank was AZG from 2.0. Can't remember if we swapped triggerwheel. Not impossible.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Head is done with new exhaust valves. Supertech this time.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Bauce

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Upgrading my rods while I'm at it. New Brute IX rods are rated at 800hp compared to IE at 600hp. I also notice Brute has oil lubricated small end where IE only rely on the squirters.


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

Those Brute rods look nice - any chance you know the weight difference between them and the IE's?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

All_Euro said:


> Those Brute rods look nice - any chance you know the weight difference between them and the IE's?


The paper I got with Brute say they are 609grams. So they are beefier than IE. Not sure what IE weigh as I don't have a gram scale here.


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

bulletproof!!!:thumbup::thumbup:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

BR_337 said:


> bulletproof!!!:thumbup::thumbup:


Yeah, they are cleary beefier than the IE's and the oil channel to wristpin makes the Brute IX a superior design. :thumbup:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Looks like my old IE rods started to wear as a result of no oil lubrication at the wrist pin...


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Gulfstream said:


> Looks like my old IE rods started to wear as a result of no oil lubrication at the wrist pin...


IE rods can be ordered with rifle drilling as an option for an additional $100


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Would be a good investment.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

lookin good

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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

I had the rifle drilled rods in my old build... spun a bearing and when I called i.e. to replace it the one rod they said they did not make the rods in the same weight anymore so they wanted me to buy a whole new set... I said no thanks and went with Manley rods instead. Same difference. 

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## Pisko (Jan 14, 2006)

Brute rods are the tits:thumbup:opcorn:
What is the price? did you get`em from Arnold?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Pisko said:


> Brute rods are the tits:thumbup:opcorn:
> What is the price? did you get`em from Arnold?


Yes, they look like a quality product. 549usd from Arnold.


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## Don® (Oct 11, 2011)

Brute for Brute Force:thumbup:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

I'm going brute on my stroker. Cp pistons. Been looking into after talking to Arnold. I wonder what my rods look like 8 years of 400+whp abuse lol


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## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

Awesome thread so far, sorry, coming in late to the game :wave:


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## superkarl (Dec 18, 2012)

When I ordered brute hx rods from pagparts they came as in the picture on the website, not I beam design like yours. 
I've been had


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## NaSMK4 (Dec 12, 2011)

if u seriously want to source tdi haldex box's i am very interested in one as well if swartz wants to hook up the shipping connect with me and marcus...

just saying let me know i have cash money ready to buy!


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

superkarl said:


> When I ordered brute hx rods from pagparts they came as in the picture on the website, not I beam design like yours.
> I've been had


I got Brute IX not HX


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

NaSMK4 said:


> if u seriously want to source tdi haldex box's i am very interested in one as well if swartz wants to hook up the shipping connect with me and marcus...
> 
> just saying let me know i have cash money ready to buy!


Sourcing haldex tdi boxes is not a problem. I posted a link to an excel sheet last page where you can look at the different gear ratios and compare. I used that when I ordered my box. Double check the ratios when you find a box with ratios which looks good. 

If you let me know what box code you want I can find a few alternatives for you to choose between. Can be had really cheap as used. Some of them are also available refurbished.


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## superkarl (Dec 18, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> I got Brute IX not HX


That makes sense lol


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

I just need an egr 02j that is solid lol


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Making sure all goes in sunny side up


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Fapfapfapfapfapfapfapfapfapfapfap


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Fixed the leaking tray. Was leaking at a weld. Tomorrow the head goes on and next week we book the lift to finish everything.


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## AmIdYfReAk (Nov 8, 2006)

Gulfstream said:


> This is all I got. When I start my hotlap I can see the lambda is going rich above 7k indicating the clutch starts to slip. 40sec later it break down.


Had to post, Its true what they say... it always runs the best right before it breaks... and DAMN that sounds healthy!


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Hopefully it will be just as wicked now with a forged crank and better rods. Nothing else is changed so I don't see why not.


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## NaSMK4 (Dec 12, 2011)

Gulfstream said:


> Hopefully it will be just as wicked now with a forged crank and better rods. Nothing else is changed so I don't see why not.


thats a haldex controller mounted to your window above center dash right?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

NaSMK4 said:


> thats a haldex controller mounted to your window above center dash right?


No, that's a tablet I run Torque Pro and some timing apps on. My Haldex controller is permanently installed below the AC unit. Just have this "night" picture:


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## NaSMK4 (Dec 12, 2011)

Gulfstream said:


> No, that's a tablet I run Torque Pro and some timing apps on. My Haldex controller is permanently installed below the AC unit. Just have this "night" picture:


what unit is this and how much does it cost and would it work with an oem r32 haldex controller?

I'm trying to decide if im going to go with the HPA touch motion or another route on my all wheel drive swap we are going to wire it all into oem specifications so i can go any direction really...


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

NaSMK4 said:


> what unit is this and how much does it cost and would it work with an oem r32 haldex controller?
> 
> I'm trying to decide if im going to go with the HPA touch motion or another route on my all wheel drive swap we are going to wire it all into oem specifications so i can go any direction really...


This is an CRC Haldex controller. It works just fine BUT you cannot run it with non-resistor plugs because they interfere with the controller's can-bus signals and cause it to reboot. Running with resistor plugs rob me of roughly 10whp.


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## NaSMK4 (Dec 12, 2011)

Gulfstream said:


> This is an CRC Haldex controller. It works just fine BUT you cannot run it with non-resistor plugs because they interfere with the controller's can-bus signals and cause it to reboot. Running with resistor plugs rob me of roughly 10whp.


not sure if im able to get this controller and im not so sure i like it i really do like the new hpa touch one...


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Head is on.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Cleaned all the oil off my CM FX500 and torqued it on with a friction plate. Still wondering where all the oil and dirt came from.. Perhaps a leaking main seal. 

Pag Parts Turbo's manifold looks as good as it performs :heart:


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Nice. That looks so purty.

 

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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Looking great man! 
Almost there, this will be awesome! !


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

schwartzmagic said:


> Nice. That looks so purty.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk





Vegeta Gti said:


> Looking great man!
> Almost there, this will be awesome! !


Awesome-O :wave:

Tdi box goes on on Mon-Tue next week then I have the lift all day on Wednesday. So close I can taste it :beer::beer:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Do work brother


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> This is an CRC Haldex controller. It works just fine BUT you cannot run it with non-resistor plugs because they interfere with the controller's can-bus signals and cause it to reboot. Running with resistor plugs rob me of roughly 10whp.


It's crazy, I ran into the same issue when logging with my AEM standalone ECU. The logging kept rebooting due to interference from my non-resistored NGK racing plugs. I ended up using a USB hub inline as a fix. The hubs have built-in buffering that cancels all sort of noise -- I was not ready to give up my non-resistor plugs yet because these things are awesome! 

Looking forward to seeing your car terrorizing the track again. :beer:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> It's crazy, I ran into the same issue when logging with my AEM standalone ECU. The logging kept rebooting due to interference from my non-resistored NGK racing plugs. I ended up using a USB hub inline as a fix. The hubs have built-in buffering that cancels all sort of noise -- I was not ready to give up my non-resistor plugs yet because these things are awesome!
> 
> Looking forward to seeing your car terrorizing the track again. :beer:


Yeah, I know... running resistored plugs rob at least 10whp. CRC told me to try and wrap the controller in alu foil but no improvement. CRC controller has no usb connectors.. 

I also notice none of my CRC cables have any kind of shielding. Perhaps I need to pull out all of them and wrap them in alu foil...


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## VRPISSED (Jan 7, 2005)

Gulfstream said:


> In the rain... could never have done this with FWD. Now I just need to make the Haldex work all the time:



Dont know why your on a race track in the rain... :screwy:

The 00:46 second mark says it all! 

I wish Americans weren't so STUPID and would allow the cool Euro cars in the states, cause that is one bad mofo. Nice build too!


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Well, when your haldex build is done you need to test it. No time to waste and rain is not uncommon where I live. Unfortunately.


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## NaSMK4 (Dec 12, 2011)

Gulfstream said:


> Well, when your haldex build is done you need to test it. No time to waste and rain is not uncommon where I live. Unfortunately.


Oh I will buy it pretty soon! I am really excited I talked to hpa and the new touch has software to make it like an orange or blue haldex controlleer


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

NaSMK4 said:


> Oh I will buy it pretty soon! I am really excited I talked to hpa and the new touch has software to make it like an orange or blue haldex controlleer


Just have HPA guarantee it works with non-resistored plugs.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

NaSMK4 said:


> Oh I will buy it pretty soon! I am really excited I talked to hpa and the new touch has software to make it like an orange or blue haldex controlleer


Do yourself a favor and stay away from the HPA touch motion. Too many problems reported, poor construsction, and horrible, horrible, horrible customer service and support (this place has to be the worst I've seen in my many years as a car enthusiast).


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> Yeah, I know... running resistored plugs rob at least 10whp. CRC told me to try and wrap the controller in alu foil but no improvement. CRC controller has no usb connectors..
> 
> I also notice none of my CRC cables have any kind of shielding. Perhaps I need to pull out all of them and wrap them in alu foil...


Yeah, try shilding the cables. Do you use 2.0t coilpacks? I have heard (not confirmed) that elevating the coil off the head increases the noise emission. I was lucky to have USB cables in my EMS and be able to run a hub as buffer. The things we deal with when modifying cars beyond what they were design to do ...


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Yeah, try shilding the cables. Do you use 2.0t coilpacks? I have heard (not confirmed) that elevating the coil off the head increases the noise emission. I was lucky to have USB cables in my EMS and be able to run a hub as buffer. The things we deal with when modifying cars beyond what they were design to do ...


I'll pull them out and wrap them in foil. When the 2.0t coils was a hype I tested them vs 1.8t coild on a dyno and there was zero difference. Identical, so I swapped back to 1.8t coils. 

Yeah, we push the boundaries in all direction with this platform. Some of these aftermarket suppliers just don't have the quality control VAG has. Canbus wires between the Haldex and front to the controller should already be shielded from CRC. 

:beer:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

The monster is back and it feels better than ever. Still breaking in the pistonrings so I run with mineral oil with sinc. New tdi gearbox feels damn near perfect! Can't wait to test it on the track! :heart:

The engine response sub 4k is also much better and I wonder if that's down to the fact the builder decked the block when he bored it.... I have Mahle 9:1 pistons and already decked the head. 



I have to give a shout-out to Arnold at Pag Parts Turbo. Whenever I've had problems with my car he drop whatever he have in his hands and helps me out. How many companies can you say that about? Excellent customer service and support! :beer::beer::beer:


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Gulfstream said:


> The monster is back and it feels better than ever. Still breaking in the pistonrings so I run with mineral oil with sinc. New tdi gearbox feels damn near perfect! Can't wait to test it on the track! :heart:
> 
> The engine response sub 4k is also much better and I wonder if that's down to the fact the builder decked the block when he bored it.... I have Mahle 9:1 pistons and already decked the head.
> 
> ...


Agreed Arnold @PagParts has always helped me out whenever I had an issue which is why I keep sending him $$$ every year. :thumbup:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

First start complete.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Outfuknstanding! !!

This is why my shop and myself personally for many years, has a relationship with Arnold. He's the best in the business.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Back to square one. 










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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Square one as in good or bad? ??


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

As in mucho bueno. 

Sent fra min SM-T900 via Tapatalk


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## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

Great stuff!! Now we need videos, you know that! 

BTW, that material you have for the heat shield. It can be touching the exhaust manifold? What kind of material is that?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Yeah man, it's coming. Breaking in the engine now. :wave:

The heatshield is from a motorshop in UK and the material is aluminium which I treated with high temp paint. I attached it withe the two holes for the oem heatshield and it's not touching the exhaust mani. It runs down to just above the mani and protect the whole head against the heat from the mani as well as what you see above the head. I plan to get a NACA duct on the hood to further cool down the coilpacks. Works a treat.


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## RodgertheRabit II (Sep 13, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> I plan to get a NACA duct on the hood to further cool down the coilpacks. Works a treat.


where are you sourcing it? Ive had a hard time trying to find one i like.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I got it from these guys. Looks really good and it's handmade. 

http://streamlinecarbon.com/v2/products-page/special-offers/naca-duct-the-original/


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Glad to see it back on the street Oistein :thumbup:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Mine has a black carbon finish. It weighs nothing and is incredibly strong.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Where are you planning on mounting it?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

In the middle of the hood so it feeds cold air onto the coils. Also so any water would drip down between the block and intake. When I do this I'll use it only as a trackday car... I also contemplated buying a 2nd hood out of carbonfiber and swap it over for trackdays... to be decided.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Had some problems with the turbo clocking itself causing the chargepipe to contact driveshaft. Had to change the rubber boot covering the cv-joint. Made up a bracket to hold chargepipe in place :



















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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)




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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Went out to test the new tdi gearbox ratio. According to the Excel sheet I based my purchase on I should have 245kph at 8000rpms. Tests done on German autobahn with free speed. 3rd and 4th gear pull. Boost 27psi which net me about 560awhp. Hard to tell now as I have a much larger IC.

Car rips:








Had 248kph (GPS) at 8100rpm so that's ****ing sweet for trackdays. No need to jump into 5th for 1 seconds anymore.


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## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

Nice!!! Seems to have a really good power right there 
So, you now have a gearbox that you will only use 4 gears to drive fast, and 2 for economy?

Also, you took a while to change between 3rd and 4th. You were just carefull or something changed with the gearboxes?
I have some difficulties changing gears on my car, that's why I'm asking.

Keep up the good work, and keep those videos coming in!


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

This is low boost. 27psi. I think I can do 40psi with the parts I have now but I'll leave that for later. 

Normal gearchange. These boxes don't like to bang in the gears at high rpm and 600hp from the engine. Also, I was doing a test to see what sped I got from 4th. :beer:

I changed the whole gearbox from stock 02M 6 speed gasoline haldex to tdi 02M 6 speed code FBS. Just installed steel forks and carried over the Peloquin.


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## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

Still my favorite "1.8T" build...just nuts man


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Yeah man. This FBS tdi box suit the power from the engine very well. Now I just have to resist the temptation of running 40psi and ruining it again...


:wave:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Fapfapfapfapfapfapfapfapfapfapfapfapfapfapfap


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

That looks awesome!:thumbup::thumbup: 

That's what I need in my car, first 3 gears on the six speed are useless because they're so short. I really need to figure out a way to bring a tdi box on this side of the pond.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

It feels awesome :laugh:

Just bear in mind each tdi haldex gearbox has different gear ratios. The FBS one I choose from the excel sheet I linked to earlier in this thread indicated first 3 gears to be same same. Only 3rd was 10kph longer at 8k, where 4th was 40kph longer at 8k and that's what I needed. I can be on the go pedal until brake-zone at my local track without the need for 5th and also rev it out on the long straights on the ring. Über :heart:


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## spartiati (May 19, 2008)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> That looks awesome!:thumbup::thumbup:
> 
> That's what I need in my car, first 3 gears on the six speed are useless because they're so short. I really need to figure out a way to bring a tdi box on this side of the pond.


Max your final drive is much higher in the TT. Swapping final drives alone should solve your issue and keep you from having to ride the limiter in 2nd. I am in the middle of doing this to the GTI. I will let you know how it turns out when I get everything together and the car back.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> It feels awesome :laugh:
> 
> Just bear in mind each tdi haldex gearbox has different gear ratios. The FBS one I choose from the excel sheet I linked to earlier in this thread indicated first 3 gears to be same same. Only 3rd was 10kph longer at 8k, where 4th was 40kph longer at 8k and that's what I needed. I can be on the go pedal until brake-zone at my local track without the need for 5th and also rev it out on the long straights on the ring. Über :heart:


Yeah, I need longer fewring in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd as well. I am stuck in between gears everywhere at my power/weight ratio. It sucks so bad that I haven't done much with the car lately. Never thought better accelaration rate would mean so much problems on the gas 6 speed O2M. 



spartiati said:


> Max your final drive is much higher in the TT. Swapping final drives alone should solve your issue and keep you from having to ride the limiter in 2nd. I am in the middle of doing this to the GTI. I will let you know how it turns out when I get everything together and the car back.


Let me know Steve, I've been putting this off but I need to find a solution this off season.


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## spartiati (May 19, 2008)

I've been talking with Ed and he has tracked down a final drive setup out of a newer TDI box with a 3.591 1st final drive and a 2.926 2nd final drive. Factory TT is 4.200 and 3.316 and my stock gearing is 3.944 and 3.087.

My stock 3.944/3.087 final drive and 245/40/17:

39mph in 1st
63mph in 2nd 
89mph in 3rd 
113mph in 4th
140mph in 5th
171mph in 6th

With the 3.591/2.926 final drive and 245/40/17:

43mph in 1st
69mph in 2nd 
98mph in 3rd 
124mph in 4th
147mph in 5th
180mph in 6th

That's all assuming a 7000rpm redline. 

I'd calculate your speeds but I believe the gear stack is different with the 225Q trans. All in all it means less time finding the right gear and spending more time in the powerband. The lower cruising rpms on the highway is also very welcome.


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## darzamat (Jun 1, 2007)

as far as i can see you are still using oem fuel lines,rail and fpr. are they enough for this kind of big power ? 
i am planing to start using e85 but i'm not sure if the stock line and rail would be enough. i have ID2000 injectors and walbro450 (e85 compatible)


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Your observation is correct. Upgraded lines and rail is next mod on the list. 

I did run out of fuel (1600cc injectors 100%) in fact at 30psi with oem lines and Walbro 450lph E85 pump at 3 bar base pressure so I installed a Kenne Bell bap unit which supplies 17.5V during boost above 3psi. injector duty at 30psi dropped to 84%. 

http://www.kennebell.net/KBWebsite/Accessories_pg/Boost A Pump/layouts/boostapump.htm

I got the single 17.5V max 40amp version and I really like it. Fuel flow is really consistent during boost.


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## darzamat (Jun 1, 2007)

that thing looks amazing. i didn't even know this kind of stuff exists.
i want to push at least 30psi too. do you recommend me to upgrade my fuel lines and rail even if i use this boost-a-pump ?
is it hard to install ?

thank you for your help


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

If you will run E85 make sure you use an approved pump for the job. Yes, upgrade lines. I should have done it as well but just haven't gotten around to do it yet. 

Ideally running two pumps would be better than one pump whit a bap unit. I just ran out of space and time with my project pre season. Bap unit is really easy to install. 


:wave:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Got my Epytec adapter kit to fit 310x22 rotors on rear axle. 









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## spartiati (May 19, 2008)

Gulfstream said:


> Got my Epytec adapter kit to fit 310x22 rotors on rear axle.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm running those adapters and rotors. Excellent upgrade and balances the car better under hard braking. Complements my 996 calipers and r32 rotors well.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

spartiati said:


> I'm running those adapters and rotors. Excellent upgrade and balances the car better under hard braking. Complements my 996 calipers and r32 rotors well.


Great. You have haldex as well? Just making sure I got the correct parts..


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## spartiati (May 19, 2008)

I don't have haldex. 

I believe they make a kit for both haldex and non haldex cars. 

The epytec website can be difficult to navigate tobfind what you want.


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

Prettier than when I designed bracket to fit OEM 312mmx 25mm (TT/20AE/GLi) front rotors on the rear 

















:thumbup:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Well, it was for S3 8L and R32 Golf Mk4... Really should be correct. I'll pull a wheel off and have a looksie. 

elRey; I thought the thickest rotors those calipers could take was 22mm?


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## spartiati (May 19, 2008)

Correct 22 is the largest they fit. The rotors are from a VW Phaeton redrilled to 5x100. Epytec includes a centering ring for the rotor on the hub. 

Here is a before and after pic of my setup.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

That's great! I got the exact same 310x22mm Phaeton rotor and sent it off to be drilled and slotted.


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

Gulfstream said:


> elRey; I thought the thickest rotors those calipers could take was 22mm?


I had the 25mm rotors turned down to 23mm. 1mm from each side of the rotor.


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## superkarl (Dec 18, 2012)

I was going to opt for the 280 epytec conversion. Didn't want to over do it. 
334F 280R seems a decent increase without being unbalanced, plus not too much additional weight


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

You need to run good brakes up front to do this. I have 330x28mm with Brembo 4 pots from my Cupra R (oem 323x28) so I think bias will be fine. Need to test it out. 

Epytec told me the 280 adapters would only fit fwd and not awd models.... 

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## superkarl (Dec 18, 2012)

I think you're right, 
https://www.bolt-action.nl/product/vw-mk4-280mm-rear-brake-adapter-kit-r32-s3/
The ad is a bit misleading having (R32, S3) in the title, but I think they're just meaning it requires the 256mm rear calipers off the r32/s3. 

I have the brembo 4 pots off the TTRS/RS3 on the front with their adapters using 334mm discs, it's a great upgrade.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Running gasoline in the car now during winter and I noticed one pull I made lambda seemed to rich. Logged a couple pulls at 20psi and I see O2 corrections stop around 5500rpm. Any idears?


https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...z2hrIcG97NlczKDda-AfOjuEE/edit#gid=1233428579


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## Godfather #90 (Sep 26, 2010)

Due to the inaccuracy of the Bosch wide-range lambda sensor in highly enriched environments the calibration forces open loop in conditions where the requested lambda is anywhere below 0.81. There are several reasons driving this, one of which is to avoid a false block learn condition. There are several ways to mend, you can lower the threshold for closed loop feedback, you can raise the requested lambda to 0.81, or you can fix your open loop fueling so that it can maintain your requested lambda when there is no feedback present.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Godfather #90 said:


> Due to the inaccuracy of the Bosch wide-range lambda sensor in highly enriched environments the calibration forces open loop in conditions where the requested lambda is anywhere below 0.81. There are several reasons driving this, one of which is to avoid a false block learn condition. There are several ways to mend, you can lower the threshold for closed loop feedback, you can raise the requested lambda to 0.81, or you can fix your open loop fueling so that it can maintain your requested lambda when there is no feedback present.


Interesting.. I can change the requested lambda to 0.81 but it seem a bit lean to be running gasoline. I do however run lambda 0.82 while on E85.

How to lower the closed loop threshold in Eurodyne Maestro?


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## Godfather #90 (Sep 26, 2010)

I am sorry I am not sure that capability is present with Maestro. 

As for removing enrichment, are you worried about EGT? How high are you currently seeing during a WOT RPM sweep? Do you the ability to monitor knock activity?

0.8 lambda will surely cause a loss in engine performance if both knock and temperatures are otherwise in check.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Godfather #90 said:


> I am sorry I am not sure that capability is present with Maestro.
> 
> As for removing enrichment, are you worried about EGT? How high are you currently seeing during a WOT RPM sweep? Do you the ability to monitor knock activity?
> 
> 0.8 lambda will surely cause a loss in engine performance if both knock and temperatures are otherwise in check.


I just wrote a new map with lambda 0.81 and will test it to se if it stay in closed loop. My wot runs always bring me into 1000c EGT measured at the collector running E85 or gasoline. 99% of my tuning has been for E85 and I just made a low boost gasoline map for a daily use during winter. Also we had a dirty E85 here in Sweden so running every 3rd tank with gas is recommended.

I choose 0.78 by advise of some local tuners who would never let a car on the street with any leaner mixture than that running on gas.

You can see knock in each cylinder on my spreadsheet.


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## Sim (Jun 27, 2002)

Godfather #90 said:


> Due to the inaccuracy of the Bosch wide-range lambda sensor in highly enriched environments.


Interesting topic. Do you have got any more specific info about this? The LSU4.2 tech specs state that these sensors can be used down to 0.65-0.7 lambda.
EDIT: with an accuracy of +-0.01 @ 0.8


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I set lambda requested to 0.8125 and ECU read it as 0.82. It stayed in closed loop during the entire pull:


https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1s0TPfoyBJ94mzMUVTAXm-4MCP5GVG-14sPb-oWNU59E/edit?usp=sharing


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Installed the USP coolant hose flange as my oem plastic one was leaking. No more leaks.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Relocated battery to the trunk. Ran big positive wire to starter motor then smaller wire to distribution hub. 










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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Sweet an update, been awhile. Are you running same setup this season or are you making changes?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

One-Eight GTI said:


> Sweet an update, been awhile. Are you running same setup this season or are you making changes?


Upgrades are a much larger IC rated at 800hp, old one was rated at 550hp and I see much colder air at high boost. So I'll go back to the dyno to fine tune it. I might go for Pag Parts new exhaust manifold as Arnold say it's better flowing.. Battery to the trunk, obviously ic: 

I also have a larger front splitter and a rear diffuser I'll have to install. Need to cut a bit of the rear bumper in order to get the correct diffuser angle around 10deg.

New Toyo R888R tires as well. Seller warned me to run higher pressure in those as he worn a set out during only one trackday. 35psi at operating temp and no less he told me.


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Damn. I didn't know Arnold has a "new" manifold, you already have his stainless one. What kind of core did you get for your new intercooler, was it from Arnold or did you get it fabbed locally

Ouch. Can't imagine wearing out a set of tires per event. Must be really sticky tires


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

One-Eight GTI said:


> Damn. I didn't know Arnold has a "new" manifold, you already have his stainless one. What kind of core did you get for your new intercooler, was it from Arnold or did you get it fabbed locally
> 
> Ouch. Can't imagine wearing out a set of tires per event. Must be really sticky tires


Yeah, I have Arnolds 2nd version of the mani and I think it's awesome. But then he told me he designed a mani which flows even better.... Oh lord :laugh: Too much need.

The core is a Garrett 800 and Arnold made custom end tanks with 2.5" in and 3" out. 

I think the tires got damaged because he ran them with too low pressure. Apparently the old R888 could be ok around 30psi while the new R888R ones need higher pressure.


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Haha. Arnold is always making good stuff, expensive to keep up. Glad to see you still at it, I Enjoy seeing updates . If you got any pics and the time would like to see that monstrous core mounted on front end


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Yeah, Arnold always takes a big chunk of my salary. Totally worth it tho.. He makes excellent stuff! :heart:


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Damn. Can't wait to see the results of air temps with that bad boy, should help a lot


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Fapfapfapfapfapfapfapfapfapfapfapfapfapfapfap


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Hell yeah!! Arnold is the man indeed


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Will upgrade the rear rotors as well. Front are 330x28 and rear 310x22. Noticed rear inside pads are more worn than outside. Might need to refurb the calipers before I hit the track.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Big rotors are big 

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Freshly baked.


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Dang. Now that's an oven


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Actually the oven is behind me. It was dark in there and wouldn't see the black rims. But yeah, oven is 7m long and 4m wide. 

Sent fra min SM-T900 via Tapatalk


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Test fitted my new motorsport front splitter. It's low. Really low. Too low for the street and I think Nürburgring... but there's some local track where I can use it. Looks the part tho :beer:









































































vs. the original one:


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Damn I love the look of these cars, Wish we could get them in the states. But yeah that splitter is extremely low, looks awesome though


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

One-Eight GTI said:


> Damn I love the look of these cars, Wish we could get them in the states. But yeah that splitter is extremely low, looks awesome though


It's crazy superfast too now. Will be interesting to see what the dyno say.


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Gulfstream said:


> It's crazy superfast too now. Will be interesting to see what the dyno say.


I'd like to see he results myself. How have your injectors been holding up to E85 Did you have to get them flow checked again?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

One-Eight GTI said:


> I'd like to see he results myself. How have your injectors been holding up to E85 Did you have to get them flow checked again?


Been running gasoline thru them all winter and this cleaned them up good. When I flashed E85 file again idle was perfect. I think we have dirty corn juice over here so I'll have to run every 3rd tank with gasoline.


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## craigalangibson (Dec 27, 2003)

Sick!


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

We're having great results with the new id2000 injectors. Go bigger!!


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> We're having great results with the new id2000 injectors. Go bigger!!


I have 86% injector duty at 35psi so I'm set for now. Also, my 1600cc ASNU injectors are made of stainless steel and I already chewed through quite a few Bosch NG injectors. They don't work well with E85.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

All that sitting, not enough racing


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> All that sitting, not enough racing


Heard same story from other builders over here. Bosch NG injectors go bad with E85.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Gulfstream said:


> I have 86% injector duty at 35psi so I'm set for now. Also, my 1600cc ASNU injectors are made of stainless steel and I already chewed through quite a few Bosch NG injectors. They don't work well with E85.


Where did you source the injectors from?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Where did you source the injectors from?


Arnold


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Really?? I know id had some issues, then fixed it after a few tries.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> Really?? I know id had some issues, then fixed it after a few tries.


That might be true. We get really dirty cornjuice in Europe so we have to run every 3-4 tanks with regular gas to clean out the system. Specially if you park the car for a couple weeks or so like I tend to do all year long.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

That sucks man


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Actually E85 in Europe is made of Grain and Sugarcane and not Corn at all. Most likely why we have these problems.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Did a trackday in Norway @ Rudskogen. Car was one of the fastest on the straight but still a bit loose rear end on the corners. Still can't go below 1/2 tank of fuel as when I'm on slicks pump suck air during hard cornering. Ended up with an exhaustleak from somewhere around mani turbo area. Ran E85 at 25psi which gives me around 500awhp. Haldex with two Torsen diffs made all the difference mid corners and on the exits. Great fun. :wave:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

See, told you those diffs would be worth it...unlike what others said....

Need more suspension tweaks in the rear it sounds like though.

Awesome videos man.


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## Zowexx (Sep 23, 2013)

Nice driving brok_hand:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

I haven't been on for a while, what's your rear alignment spec (camber and toe)?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Missed some replies here. I think I lost rear grip due over pressurization. Guy who sold me the new R888R tires said he ruined a set on just one day due too low pressure so I ran them higher than normal. Too high apparently. 


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Looking good man . Interested set up as well


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

My r888 after 2 sessions are 50%, I beat the **** out of them


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I run the new R888R. Compound is very different I notice after its parked 3 weeks. Old R888 had flat spots on them and new R888R don't .


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Nice!!!


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

It's dyno time again! This time not max power but my street tune @ 28psi which I run every day. I'll try max power after I get new rail and fuel lines installed. 

Changes since last time is PagParts V3 manifold and a much larger Garrett 800 intercooler. Will test cam advancements from 0 - 6 degrees to see whats the best setting for my motor. Catcams 3651 intake and I guess 3658 exhaust. 

Here is last dyno at 25 and 35psi. 








I think at 28psi I should go right smack in the middle, but I guess time will tell.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Yesssssss


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## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

that has to be soooooo good to drive. Great numbers!!


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Pics of Arnold's V3 manifold if you have any would be great 


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Pics of Arnold's V3 manifold if you have any would be great 


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

It's got larger guides in the collector:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

I really need to switch to that manifold.


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Nice. I'm gonna be swapping in my 20v into my r32 shell so will update manifold for sure I still got the original v band one 


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

**** I'd take an
Original for the 20th lol


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

It's going down this winter so if you still want one at that time we can talk


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Dyno day was a bust. Car wouldn't boost until 6k and here's why :











Just blew a lot of hot air between 6-8k rpm. It did however make some power once the boost finally came but graph looked terrible. 681bhp around 8300rpm.








So now I take a break for the winter and get yet another WG for next season. Will return to the dyno when they open again in March.


Tally Ho.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)




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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Fuuuuuucccck. I rebuild my Watergate every year after the first failure. I'm f38 though.

That sucks man, what spring pressure?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> Fuuuuuucccck. I rebuild my Watergate every year after the first failure. I'm f38 though.
> 
> That sucks man, what spring pressure?


It's 1bar springs in there. Valve is actually straight so all I had to do is re-torque the bolts and will mount it again tomorrow. But how about that timing? Ran perfectly for months then on the dyno day it failed. 

unbelievable.... :banghead:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Beautiful


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Back where it belongs, normal ops. Goes to show if something can fail it will fail when you need it the most.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)




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## RodgertheRabit II (Sep 13, 2012)

Glad to still see this build going strong!:wave:

the SS PPT vband manifold is amazing. work of art. 

Never thought to wrap it tho...might give it a try, with the a4 its sitting right in front of me lol


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

PagParts makes neat stuff :beer:

I need to wrap everything I can as heat is a big issue for me during trackdays.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Cut out two hoodvents to improve cooling and reduce engine bay pressure.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Good to see more improvements!


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

👍🏻🍻


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Those are cool. Where did you get them?

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

schwartzmagic said:


> Those are cool. Where did you get them?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk


I got them off ebay. They are from a Ford Focus RS mk2.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Fapfaofapfapfapfapfapfapfapfapfapfapfap


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Gulfstream said:


> I got them off ebay. They are from a Ford Focus RS mk2.


 thanks buddy

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## ticketed2much (Feb 18, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> Cut out two hoodvents to improve cooling and reduce engine bay pressure.


The vents are useful and look great, as does the rest of your car!!


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

ticketed2much said:


> The vents are useful and look great, as does the rest of your car!!


Cheers :beer:

I think it's coming together nicely. Just hope I get some trackdays before something breaks again... :wave:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Felt some vibration from the motor. Stopped and tried to find the cause. Couldn't see anything at first but I put it on a lift just to be on the safe side. By the time I got to the workshop it was leaking oil. 

Timing gear had shattered and sent pieces around with the cambelt. Apparently the blue Kevlar belt is too strong for the gears? 





























All things considered I think I dodged a bullet. 

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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Very much dodged a bullet, tension is a mother fkr with those Kevlar belts.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> Very much dodged a bullet, tension is a mother fkr with those Kevlar belts.


I wonder about the quality of the oem timing gear. Can see the crack continue on further.... IE billet timing gear stronger?


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Well that's a first. :screwy:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

I believe there's is cold hearted and machine if I'm correct. Sure if you hit up he can give you some details. If I had one sitting around I could always just have one made out of Billet and stronger steel material.


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## Don® (Oct 11, 2011)

Should me made from hardened 4340 Cr-Mo :wave:
Sintered powdered metal are for the birds.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Don® said:


> Should me made from hardened 4340 Cr-Mo :wave:
> Sintered powdered metal are for the birds.


So what are we using? IE billet timing gear?


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## mainstayinc (Oct 4, 2006)

Amazing. And yours was dowel pinned to the crankshaft. Can someone explain how a timing gear fails like this? Bad tensioner?, too much power put through OEM timing gear? What is the likely root cause?


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## Don® (Oct 11, 2011)

Gulfstream said:


> So what are we using? IE billet timing gear?


The stock one, I'm pretty sure is made from sintered powdered metal.
The IE one, no clue, but billet would be fine...If I had to make one, it would be from 4340 Cr-Mo.


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## Don® (Oct 11, 2011)

mainstayinc said:


> Amazing. And yours was dowel pinned to the crankshaft. Can someone explain how a timing gear fails like this? Bad tensioner?, too much power put through OEM timing gear? What is the likely root cause?


Cyclic loading and fatigue from tension caused the gear in the hallow area to crack and break off.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Don® said:


> Cyclic loading and fatigue from tension caused the gear in the hallow area to crack and break off.


Arnold pointed at the blue Kevlar cambelt...


I use oem 1.8t tensioner and this gear is only 2 years old.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Don® said:


> The stock one, I'm pretty sure is made from sintered powdered metal.
> The IE one, no clue, but billet would be fine...If I had to make one, it would be from 4340 Cr-Mo.


If you make one I'll buy it :wave:


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## Don® (Oct 11, 2011)

Gulfstream said:


> Arnold pointed at the blue Kevlar cambelt...
> 
> 
> I use oem 1.8t tensioner and this gear is only 2 years old.


There's nothing wrong with the belt, it's the level of power you're making :laugh:
Kevlar > powered metal


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Don® said:


> There's nothing wrong with the belt, it's the level of power you're making :laugh:
> Kevlar > powered metal


I guess I have to do belt, tensioner AND timing gear before every season then. My lord...


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## mainstayinc (Oct 4, 2006)

Don® said:


> Cyclic loading and fatigue from tension caused the gear in the hallow area to crack and break off.


I made a phone call to Integrated Engineering about this matter since I am using their 1.8T Timing Gear Dowel Pin Kit for TDI crank (SKU: IEBEVA8). It uses a modified OEM timing gear like Gulfstream's setup. Unfortunately, they were not very helpful.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

mainstayinc said:


> I made a phone call to Integrated Engineering about this matter since I am using their 1.8T Timing Gear Dowel Pin Kit for TDI crank (SKU: IEBEVA8). It uses a modified OEM timing gear like Gulfstream's setup. Unfortunately, they were not very helpful.


Do you have the IE billet one?


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## mainstayinc (Oct 4, 2006)

Gulfstream said:


> Do you have the IE billet one?


No, they only offer that kit with a modified OEM timing gear. I asked them if they can modify their billet press-fit timing gear (SKU: IEBEVC8) to work with the TDI crank. She basically said to buy it and modify it yourself.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Gulfstream said:


> So what are we using? IE billet timing gear?


Yes


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I ordered this one. Coming from Germany so should be here withing a few days.

https://www.bar-tek-tuning.de/en/1-8t-billet-timing-gear-integrated


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## mainstayinc (Oct 4, 2006)

Gulfstream said:


> I ordered this one. Coming from Germany so should be here withing a few days.
> 
> https://www.bar-tek-tuning.de/en/1-8t-billet-timing-gear-integrated


Nice.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

True!! Good call Don


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Now I'm going to have to and buy the IE one. Don't want this happening to mine lol

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## mainstayinc (Oct 4, 2006)

schwartzmagic said:


> Now I'm going to have to and buy the IE one. Don't want this happening to mine lol
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk


I ordered one earlier this week. They are three weeks on back order.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Already got mine from Germany and sent it to a machineshop to get borred for the pins.

:thumbup:


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## mainstayinc (Oct 4, 2006)

Gulfstream said:


> Already got mine from Germany and sent it to a machineshop to get borred for the pins.
> 
> :thumbup:


Nice!


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Some updates here. Not what I wanted to say but it is what it is. 

The vibration from the timing gear took out the two closest main caps. So I'll do billet tall boys and girdle. 

Soon whole damn engine will be billet.... 

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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Oh man that royally sucks. You will have a solid engine when done though


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Fuuuuuucccck man.....here I am...rods....aged arp fasteners...Everything else stock in the button end lol. Afraid to stroke up anymore lol

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## mainstayinc (Oct 4, 2006)

Gulfstream said:


> Some updates here. Not what I wanted to say but it is what it is.
> 
> The vibration from the timing gear took out the two closest main caps. *So I'll do billet tall boys and girdle.*
> 
> ...


:thumbup:


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## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Bad luck mate! What a bummer!


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Yeah, this set me back perhaps 3 months. So I look fwd to trackdays in end of August.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Fuuuuuucccck

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## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Biggest time consumer is usually waiting for a respectable machine shop to line bore it.

You got quotes for the line boring yet? Tall boy block costs us a healthy amount of machine shop time/cost.

Will be an ear indestructible motor afterwards


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Yeah, I have a local machine shop who said yes to do it. I'll call with the person who will perform the work tomorrow. 


Hopefully my 2.0tfsi crank is not bent too much....... 

opcorn:


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## mainstayinc (Oct 4, 2006)

Gulfstream said:


> Yeah, I have a local machine shop who said yes to do it. I'll call with the person who will perform the work tomorrow.
> 
> 
> *Hopefully my 2.0tfsi crank is not bent too much.......
> ...


I would definitely get the crank checked out before installing into your new girdle-reinforced bottom end. Any machine shop should be able to check the crank for straightness and balance. If it is out of spec (>.002 inches) then a good machine shop can even coerce it back into spec.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Oh yeah. The first thing they will do is check the crank. I just hope I don't need to shell out for another one. 

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Here we are again...









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## blind (Nov 26, 1999)

While you have access, put a dowel pin between the compressor housing and the backplate. That'll prevent the comp housing from rotating.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

If you look closely at the picture you'll see I have a metal strip holding the compressor chargepipe in place. Keeps it away from axle as well.


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## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

That the new one already? If so wow that was bloody quick!!


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

StaceyS3 said:


> That the new one already? If so wow that was bloody quick!!


It's at a machineshop now getting girdle and billet main caps treatment. 

Will post some pics when I get it back.

:beer:


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## tylerlb (Jun 13, 2004)

This build/car is ridiculous. Just read it from the beginning. 

Certainly finding the limitations of oem parts in here.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

If I knew what I know now I'd get ALL the forged/billet parts available for this motor from day one.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Hind sight is 20/10, still incredible sir

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Well, I've also received some bad advice.

Issam sold me a cast crank and said they have never failed. I bent it then broke it in half....

Timing gear, main caps, rods and cambelt/tensioner seems to be the weak links I found in addition to non-forged cranks. 

SO FAR :wave:


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## jcbg1975 (Jul 24, 2005)

How did you bent the crank?

Enviado desde mi SM-G920F mediante Tapatalk


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

Gulfstream said:


> Well, I've also received some bad advice.
> 
> Issam sold me a cast crank and said they have never failed. I bent it then broke it in half....


Hi Oistein,
You were sold that crankshaft at the end of 2011 IRC (_6 years ago_). In 2012 we sold all of our Cast crankshaft inventory to [email protected]
At the time , for your horsepower goals and budget what I stated back then stands true , which is that a CAST crankshaft is more than adequate. 
Comparing a $350 cast crankshaft to a $900+ forged BPY crankshaft after 2-3 turbo revisions is a little unfair no? 

That being said , I have a few used 2.0 TFSI Forged 92.8mm stroke crankshafts if you want one. Simply cover the shipping and it is yours.
You have my email and contact information. 
The offer is there
Issam


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

jcbg1975 said:


> How did you bent the crank?
> 
> Enviado desde mi SM-G920F mediante Tapatalk


723bhp and 670NM will do it.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

INA said:


> At the time , for your horsepower goals and budget what I stated back then stands true , which is that a CAST crankshaft is more than adequate.
> Issam


Hi Issam,

Cast crankshaft is not recommended for any big turbo builds. At all. It's for NA application only. 

As for you offer. Hang on for a while. I think my current one is ok.


:thumbup:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Good news, everyone!


Crank was only bent 15/100th of a mm so well within what's correcable. Machine shop corrected it and will do the lineboring of billet maincaps next week. 

:beer:


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Sweet. That will save a few bucks 


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Not only that but time as well. I have pins in it.. Would take 2 months to get the crank and pin it to my spec again... 

Very happy now. :wave:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Outfuknstanding sir

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## F4T (Jun 23, 2014)

Great news!


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

Gulfstream said:


> Good news, everyone!
> 
> 
> Crank was only bent 15/100th of a mm so well within what's correcable. Machine shop corrected it and will do the lineboring of billet maincaps next week.
> ...


:thumbup:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Girdle and billet main caps are in place. I'll ask my mech to assemble it while I'm working next 2 weeks.
















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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Looks good. 

We need a real girdle for our engines

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

If you'rerunning 600+ hp I think getting billet main caps is a minimum. I got girdle as well while I'm at it. 

Only thing non-forged/billet now is the block itself....


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

How far into the block does that girdle go? How many anchor points?

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Girlde lay underneath the block and leans on the tall boy main caps which I skimmed some 2mm. Looks like the 10 arp bolts holding the main caps (they go all the way through and then the x amount of bolts holding the sump which goes through the girld and attach to the block.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

So the girdle is really a plate?

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

ya man. It's a plate that bolts on the block and tall boys.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

We need something better. I should make something. All this schooling and experience should be put to use. 

Regardless, very fukn cool. Hopefully everything is solid now.

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Not gonna build this engine again within the next 5 years. If something breaks I'll park it. 

Limit boost to MAX 25psi and see how she rolls.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

there ya go, that's why I turned down lol

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Assembly stage. Luckily my mechanic is paying close attention to the little bits. Clearly when the timing gear split and ****ed two main caps also the oil pump gear got hit. Vibration perhaps. 

Crackelackin









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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Good catch, ****. 

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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

You can see the tips of the teeth folding over like a worn motorcycle sprocket. Maybe cryo treat that gear for a little more wear resistance?


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Doesn't i.e. sell a billed crank gear?

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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

They do but it isn't pinned. We actually discussed it in here a bit back. Like 2 months ago. 

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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Oh that sucks

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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

right

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Here we go again. Dry lifters immediately after first startup. 

https://youtu.be/APiEeCEBjck

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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Woohoo. Glad to see it running again 


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## cuprafan (Aug 26, 2017)

hello 
I did follow every page till now 
the last rebuild it was your clutch who came losse you buy a other engine and new cranckshaft 
did you checke if the flywheel was strait or built it back on whit the clutch then 
i did miss this info then


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## cuprafan (Aug 26, 2017)

*gulfstream*

hello 
did you checke your last rebuild wen the clutch came off that your flyewheel was strait 
whit the new engine and new crank the I missed that info then


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Well????? Any cool videos you ripping it?

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

cuprafan said:


> hello
> I did follow every page till now
> the last rebuild it was your clutch who came losse you buy a other engine and new cranckshaft
> did you checke if the flywheel was strait or built it back on whit the clutch then
> i did miss this info then


 Hello bro. New crankshaft was balanced with clutch attached.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> Well????? Any cool videos you ripping it?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


In a word; No.

I did a trackday, or I tried to at least. My struggles continues...

I never ever had cooling problems, until Saturday. Temp went from stable 80c to 130c in a matter of seconds and I didn't catch it. My tablet which I have a water temp alarm set at 100c didn't work because I delete intermediate memory on my tablet to make space for Harrys laptimer and I was more concerned with lambda. I only caught it when I heard warning noise from low water level in expansion tank. I started to cool down but on the way in to the pit a slight knocking sound developed and when I shut it down it was quite noticable.

From what I can tell water cooked and intake valves in cyl 1 hit the piston. Other pistons look ok, but can't be sure until we pull head and inspect.


Why did this happen?


- Aftermarket 80c t-stat or waterpump impeller... who knows. Waterpump is metal.



I decided to sett the car or sell it in parts immediately after it happened but when I calmed down I realize I cannot sell my hobby I've worked on for the last 10 years.


I'm keeping it and will continue my uphill struggle until I have a working car again. 



Positives: With new front arb cornering was a HUGE improvement. I don't advice removing any arb unless you run STIFF springs. As in drifting springs. Also, the engine ran better than ever before at 25psi and the only hot lap I got I made new personal top speed on the long straight on the track.


I'll pull the head and replace and rebuild. Can expect to see this car back again in a month if damage is limited or in 1-2 years if the engine is total.



:wave:


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Oh man car has been a bastard for awhile. Nice job in personal best and keeping fingers crossed for limited damage. 


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

**** man.....

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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

I run Harrys as well, and torque. But I have my data logging and such saving to my 128g card on my tablet. My memory and settings are saved on the tablet. That way I can keep settings and still get data for video overlay. 

Fuc*k man, sorry to hear :/

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> I run Harrys as well, and torque. But I have my data logging and such saving to my 128g card on my tablet. My memory and settings are saved on the tablet. That way I can keep settings and still get data for video overlay.
> 
> Fuc*k man, sorry to hear :/
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


Let's see how bad it is. 


Really REALLY tired of this same old song.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

I bet man :/

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## cuprafan (Aug 26, 2017)

Gulfstream said:


> Let's see how bad it is.
> 
> 
> Really REALLY tired of this same old song.


hello 
I wold say take your time to build the engine back up maby take a few steps back and make it
from 2008 cc back to 1800 cc??
I gott from a german guy this adress BP Motorentechnik (youtub)
this men using crankshaft plate to make it stronger 

qwestion in other direction how is the car braking whit de bigger rotors on the back axle 
I am not surre like also to upgrade from 2,56 to 280/312 on the back but how will it brake then?
do you have a info on that 
thanks.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

cuprafan said:


> hello
> I wold say take your time to build the engine back up maby take a few steps back and make it
> from 2008 cc back to 1800 cc??
> I gott from a german guy this adress BP Motorentechnik (youtub)
> ...


There is no problem running 2008cc. I already use a girdle plate and billet tallboy main caps. This was caused by faulty cooling.

Car stops ok. Not fantastic but also no fade. I have Brembo 4pot on 330x28 up front and 310x22 rear with oem calipers. Currenty using Ferodo 2500 but I'll test out Carbotech XP12 next year.


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## BH17DNB (Feb 21, 2011)

You don't really get to catch a break, do you?
I hope you get lucky and the damage is minimal.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Will pull bottom end tomorrow so I'll get all the answers.


:vampire:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Well dang...



Here's the deal. I used wrong torque when I fitted the head. Mixed up ftlbs vs NM and basically used half the torque. Head lifted and water migrated into the oil where it caused havoc. All bearings lost lubrication so crank is trashed and pistons hit the head. Not the valves, valves are fine. 

Issam, you still have a new 2.0tfsi crank for me? 


This just became a winter project. :bs:


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

That sucks ass. Was hoping for minor damage. Sorry man, I'm glad your sticking with it though. One of my favorite builds on vortex that keeps me coming back 


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Well, I figured there's no point stopping now. This last failure was all my doing and can't blame anything on the parts installed.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

One lap









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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Daammnn 

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## cuprafan (Aug 26, 2017)

Gulfstream said:


> One lap
> 
> 
> 
> ...


hello 
that looks terrible but can the crank not machined to oversize bearings or is it to late for that 
only trying to help 
( this is also my favorite tread keep posting )


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## cuprafan (Aug 26, 2017)

me again cooland mixt whit oil how is the turbo and camshafts the mess gets every where


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

cuprafan said:


> hello
> that looks terrible but can the crank not machined to oversize bearings or is it to late for that
> only trying to help
> ( this is also my favorite tread keep posting )





cuprafan said:


> me again cooland mixt whit oil how is the turbo and camshafts the mess gets every where


I'll look with mech on Thursday if we can machine the crank to accept oversized bearings. It would help me as I have pins in the crank.... Head, valves and lifters looks fine with no marks. Turbo bearings have a little give but no more than before.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Issam you have PM.


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## OBIWANKANNA974 (Feb 24, 2011)

Holly ****.Really sorry for you man.******** torque wrench


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

Gulfstream said:


> Well, I figured there's no point stopping now. This last failure was all my doing and can't blame anything on the parts installed.


Sucks to see the carnage but cool attitude... looking forward to updates :beer:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Rod bearing nr 1 spun as the only one. Also found oil feed line top turbo had burst. That could've been much worse.









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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

FU-CK 

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## cuprafan (Aug 26, 2017)

Vegeta Gti said:


> FU-CK
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


thanks for the update 
the next build bulletproof:biggrinsanta:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I'll try the correct bolt torque next time and see if things won't improve then... 

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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

Gulfstream said:


> I'll try the correct bolt torque next time and see if things won't improve then...
> 
> Sent fra min SM-T900 via Tapatalk



Worth a try


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Some pics from my last trackday. Seconds before disaster for me....

I liked that built beetle.









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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Here we go again.









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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

sexy

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Moar sexy parts. Big Tnx to Arnold @ PagPartsTurbo for helping me out.









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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

That water pump is legit. I need pistons.

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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Dang. Wicked water pump. Never seen one like that before


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## Ephraim (Sep 18, 2003)

Gulfstream said:


> Moar sexy parts. Big Tnx to Arnold @ PagPartsTurbo for helping me out.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I wonder what the life span is on that. 


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

On what exactly? 

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## cuprafan (Aug 26, 2017)

nice progress good stuff and prices also carrillo bearings 
I keep following


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

And here we go again...

Fantastic support by PagPartsTurbo during this process. 









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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

I'm currently waiting on cp info from Arnold. 
Looks solid dude!!

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> I'm currently waiting on cp info from Arnold.
> Looks solid dude!!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


And light weight! Can feel the difference just holding them in your hand.

Also going 9,5:1 CR now. E85 all day long.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Gulfstream said:


> And light weight! Can feel the difference just holding them in your hand.
> 
> Also going 9,5:1 CR now. E85 all day long.


Sweet!! They are supposed to be the ****. 


I'm staying 1.8l going 10:1cr



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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Sweet. One of my favorite builds is moving forward again. What kind of wrist pins do cp use. Are they pretty beefy??


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

20mm tool steel which are a fair bit longer than the Mahle pins.









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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

It's like watching one of your children being born in slow motion.











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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Can’t wait till it’s running to see if that water pump makes a difference 


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## ticketed2much (Feb 18, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> It's like watching one of your children being born in slow motion.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



That looks so good! Is that a FSI tensioner?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

ticketed2much said:


> That looks so good! Is that a FSI tensioner?


Yup. :thumbup:


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## rogerius (Jun 14, 2004)

can you explain how did you calculate how much to skim the "tallboys" ?
Did you measure the gap with the girdle on or off?
What gap did you end up with, for the silicone gasket, if any?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

rogerius said:


> can you explain how did you calculate how much to skim the "tallboys" ?
> Did you measure the gap with the girdle on or off?
> What gap did you end up with, for the silicone gasket, if any?


I had a machine shop take care of that. They told me they made them level but included a small gap for the silicone gasket. I don't remember how much.




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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Always use nordlocks










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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

:wave:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Will use a lightweight mc battery. About half the weight of normal car battery.










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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk



:beer:


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## jcbg1975 (Jul 24, 2005)

Congratulations man.

Enviado desde mi SM-G950F mediante Tapatalk


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Cheers :beer:

Tomorrow and the weekend it's time for break in of the piston rings.


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## ticketed2much (Feb 18, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> Cheers :beer:
> 
> Tomorrow and the weekend it's time for break in of the piston rings.


When are you going to be able to hit a track? Bet you can’t wait!:thumbup:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I work offshore every second month so either May or July. Still winter here in Scandinavia :snowcool:


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

What's the deal with that waterpump?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Pat @ Pitt Soundworks said:


> What's the deal with that waterpump?


Was about 60$ from a part supplier. 

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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

Oh really? B I've never seen one with the pulley windowed or the impleller like that.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Ah yes, the design. I wanted the most solid waterpump build and this stainless steel version fits the bill. Arnolds recommendation.


Been running car for two days now and the pump is at least as efficient as oem metal cast one I had. Albeit I've not revved over 4k yet.


I have two holes in my tstat and when I sit at 2000rpm and then goes to 4000rpm I see coolant temp immediately drop. So it's working as advertised.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

Awesome. Do you mind sharing the part number?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

43usd here:


https://www.ecstuning.com/b-graf-parts/water-pump/06a121011l~grf/


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

MC battery









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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Haven't posted in here for a while. Still working on the sled.

Installed new gauges. Ripped out interior and will install race seats. SQS dogbox and seq shifter is on the way. Turbo upgrade is another child of the mad scientist in NY based on gtx3582/84r gen2.


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## mainstayinc (Oct 4, 2006)

Gulfstream said:


> Haven't posted in here for a while. Still working on the sled.
> 
> Installed new gauges. Ripped out interior and will install race seats. SQS dogbox and seq shifter is on the way. Turbo upgrade is another child of the mad scientist in NY *based on gtx3582/84r gen2*.


Nice! I'm eager to see how that turbo performs.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

mainstayinc said:


> Nice! I'm eager to see how that turbo performs.


That makes two of us. Comparing 3576 to 3582 I get some sort of idea what I can expect but I have the ppt5935r which is also a Arnold special.

With dogbox and seq shifter I'll do clutchless shifts at wot so transient response will be slighlty less important and power more important. I'll also limit boost to 25psi on E85 and 20psi on gas. Perhaps 30psi for one mile runs.


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## mainstayinc (Oct 4, 2006)

Gulfstream said:


> That makes two of us. Comparing 3576 to 3582 I get some sort of idea what I can expect but I have the ppt5935r which is also a Arnold special.
> 
> With dogbox and seq shifter I'll do clutchless shifts at wot so transient response will be slighlty less important and power more important. I'll also limit boost to 25psi on E85 and 20psi on gas. Perhaps 30psi for one mile runs.


Very cool. Did you upgrade crank timing gear on engine? I hope engine will stay together this time.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

mainstayinc said:


> Very cool. Did you upgrade crank timing gear on engine? I hope engine will stay together this time.


Crank timing gear has two pins as well as one of those diamond discs. We used correct torque nrs this time :laugh:


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## mainstayinc (Oct 4, 2006)

Gulfstream said:


> Crank timing gear has two pins as well as one of those diamond discs. We used correct torque nrs this time :laugh:


:thumbup: Sounds like you're set. Looking forward to any future updates.


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Interested in the turbo Arnold is gonna build you. I’m slowly working on building a 2.5 and am gonna go a lot bigger than my 3076r that’s on my Gti 


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Well, the gtx3582r gen 2 comp wheel flows 85lbs vs 65lbs? I have today. Unknown because I guess nobody knows except Arnold.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Nice, glad to see you're still keeping the Cupra going


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I think it's still fun to fix on it and go racing. So see no reason to stop.

:beer:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Brraaaapp 

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Got an upgraded turbo, SQS dogbox and sequential eshifter, new clutch, bucket seats and an ignition voltage booster.









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## mainstayinc (Oct 4, 2006)

Gulfstream said:


> Got an upgraded turbo, SQS dogbox and sequential eshifter, new clutch, bucket seats and an ignition voltage booster.
> 
> Sent fra min SM-G935F via Tapatalk


:beer::beer:


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

What turbo you go with??


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Yyaaaasss, more details brother!!

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

One-Eight GTI said:


> What turbo you go with??
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Turbin off gtx3584rs and compressor off gtx3582r gen 2


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Gulfstream said:


> Turbin off gtx3584rs and compressor off gtx3582r gen 2


Oh damn. It’s gonna rip 


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Jesus

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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

bring it by my place i want a ride!.. :beer:


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## brunjc2 (Jul 24, 2017)

Which SQS gearset and R&Ps? That sounds like fun!! Clutchless shifting is a dream of mine!


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

brunjc2 said:


> Which SQS gearset and R&Ps? That sounds like fun!! Clutchless shifting is a dream of mine!


I got the 6 speed boost gear kit as it will net me around 220kph at 8300rpms in 4th gear. Suitable for the tracks I go to.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Stoked. 

Awaiting video

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> Stoked.
> 
> Awaiting video
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJh8j86q3_g&feature=youtu.be

New clutch so cant go boost it too much. But I'll head out tonight.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Ignitron is where I'm heading as well. 



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## brunjc2 (Jul 24, 2017)

Gulfstream said:


> Vegeta Gti said:
> 
> 
> > Stoked.
> ...


Sequential shifter! Very nice. Is that from SQS as well?

How much more force do you have to apply to the shifter to select another gear? How about downshifting and hear matching, is there any provisions in Ignitron to achieve that?

Sorry for the questions, just super intrigued!


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

brunjc2 said:


> Gulfstream said:
> 
> 
> > Vegeta Gti said:
> ...


Yes, the eshifter and dog kit is from SQS. Just tested it around the corner and all 6 gears engage. There's an actuator to help shift in case you have fish fingers but force needed on lever is not much. 

Ask away 🙂


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

6 years later...and we still here!:beer:


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> 6 years later...and we still here!:beer:


Still having fun, so why not :laugh:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Only 6?

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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Getting closer to dialing in the new setup. Have to admit I'm enjoying both ignition ecu and the SQS shifter.

https://youtu.be/yn4ASBWG1Gs


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## brunjc2 (Jul 24, 2017)

Thanks for sharing the video!

How about downshifts, specifically at higher revs? Does/Can Ignitron rev match for downshifts? Is this just done like heel/toe clutch rev matching a synchromesh 02m?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

brunjc2 said:


> Thanks for sharing the video!
> 
> How about downshifts, specifically at higher revs? Does/Can Ignitron rev match for downshifts? Is this just done like heel/toe clutch rev matching a synchromesh 02m?


Atm not but Ignitron says next update they can introduce an auto blip function where they blipp the TB on downshift. The eshifter from SQS sends a signal shifting up/down so I hope they can use that.


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## Leon20vt4 (Apr 1, 2019)

That would be the bees knees if they do that.... my god.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Outfuknstanding sir

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## blind (Nov 26, 1999)

Any updates?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

blind said:


> Any updates?


Car is in winter storeage now but managed to dyno it at different boost levels and still mapping in the shift cuts for the sequential. It's a lot of fun not going to lie.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Fukn. Beautiful.

So much erect









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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Sup fellas. Did a rolling halfmile race just couple days ago and I have to say car runs great now. The addition of sequential dogbox really tranfered the car into a much more useful machine. Next is more aero work such as hood vents, dive planes and then go look for a track. Hopefully borders open up soon so we can return to das ring.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

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