# 2.0T BPY Cam chain tensioner help......



## MASSSCREW (Jul 5, 2011)

I NEED to replace the cam chain tensioner on my BPY.....

I have found lots of info everywhere on this except a complete DIY.....

I have tried to put all my info together in order to draw an idea of the* best way to do this/what tools are needed*....but I still don't feel comfortable jumping into it....

Some people say special tools are needed...others say they are just precautionary....

Also, some say the intake cam MUST come out...while others say that tensioner can just compress and slide out.......

Whats the truth with this? I have been searching for hours and I am exhausted and more confused......

Any help that can be offered is greatly appreciated!

Thanks.


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## Michael W Dane (Feb 23, 2013)

MASSSCREW said:


> I NEED to replace the cam chain tensioner on my BPY.....
> 
> I have found lots of info everywhere on this except a complete DIY.....
> 
> ...


I'm in the process of replacing my broken chain and tensioner. I did order the Assemacher cam gear locking tool. The tensioner comes right off the head with three screws. I too would appreciate some input on this job.


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## Rcbowman369 (Mar 26, 2008)

http://volkswagen.workshop-manuals.com/golf-mk5/index.php?id=5392


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## MASSSCREW (Jul 5, 2011)

Rcbowman369 said:


> http://volkswagen.workshop-manuals.com/golf-mk5/index.php?id=5392



You sir are the friggin' MAN! Thank you!


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## Michael W Dane (Feb 23, 2013)

Rcbowman369 said:


> http://volkswagen.workshop-manuals.com/golf-mk5/index.php?id=5392


I noticed that the BPY engine is not listed in this repair sequence. It looks very much like my BPY engine however.


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## iGen3 (Mar 21, 2002)

Michael W Dane said:


> I noticed that the BPY engine is not listed in this repair sequence. It looks very much like my BPY engine however.


is this something I should probably do one of these days, since I'm over 215,000 miles? It is rather noisy in there lately...


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## Rcbowman369 (Mar 26, 2008)

the bpy falls under the "Continuation for all vehicles" the other engine codes listed have a different cam tensioner that is held in the collapsed position via a bolt rather than the locking pin


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## Michael W Dane (Feb 23, 2013)

*Got it running*

I had to make this repair in my very limited spare time so it took a couple of months from start to finish. Honestly I had a hard time understanding these cam chain timing instructions. There is a copper colored link on the chain that isn't mentioned ANYWHERE I looked. The cam lock doesn't really lock the cams is any specific location either. 

When the belt timing marks are lined up cylinder #4 is TDC firing position. Another oddity is the crank gear that drives the timing belt. this gear is not round but is slightly elliptical to reduce stress on the timing belt. 

As I was turning the engine with a ratchet on the crank bolt there was a slapping noise coming from the head I though it was the lifters but it was the timing chain tensioner jumping up and down. There was a good flow of oil the the head as witnessed by the oil coming out of the port that supplies oil to the cam adjuster. I plugged this hold in the head and my son continued cranking the engine over by hand, soon oil was coming out the bleeder hole in the tensioner. I found the bleeder hole in the old broken tensioner was plugged and wonder if this contributed to it's failure. 

Anyway the engine fired right up and now runs quietly, has plenty of power and no drips from anything. No warning lights. I replaced the oil pressure switch because the warning light wasn't working and I had the switch out to check the oil pressure. Well the oil pressure warning light still doesn't work (or I can't find it??) I'll keep working on that problem....


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## darcness (Aug 8, 2008)

So what you're saying is that when the timing belt sprocket (cam sprocket) is lined up with the mark (or TDC), the number 4 cylinder cams should be facing each other with the indents on the inside correct? 

If I'm wrong please correct me. Doing this myself right now and I'm confused as hell.


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

Special tools are required for this job. There is not way to get the tensioner out with the special socket and there is no way I would try this without the cam locking tool. There is no way that I could see to time the chain side of the head so you need the cams to stay put using the cam locking tool. 

You do not need to remove the intake cam for this job. I read that somewhere too and it is not true. Maybe if you dob have the special socket or something but it sounds like a real pita if you were to go that route.


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## Paul902 (Oct 10, 2007)

Michael W Dane said:


> The tensioner comes right off the head with three screws.


Can this cam chain tensioner come off without first removing the exhaust cam adjuster and/or the input cam sprocket? 

I am investigating why I had a low oil pressure warning light come on, with engine running rough at startup, and wondering if this tensioner could be the culprit by causing the timing to be off, leading to rough running, and that causing my oil pressure to be low.


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## vwisthebest (Sep 17, 2003)

Paul902 said:


> Can this cam chain tensioner come off without first removing the exhaust cam adjuster and/or the input cam sprocket?
> 
> I am investigating why I had a low oil pressure warning light come on, with engine running rough at startup, and wondering if this tensioner could be the culprit by causing the timing to be off, leading to rough running, and that causing my oil pressure to be low.


No, you will not be able to remove the tensioner until the chain is removed and you cannot remove the chain unless you the adjuster is removed. See pic below. Always replace the adjuster bolt and the gasket for the cover/housing.

That said, there is no scenario where it would make sense only to remove the tensioner even if that were possible. If the chain skipped more than one tooth, you likely bent a valve and the whole head needs to come off. If it only skipped one tooth, you did not hit any valves, but the timing would be off. In either case, the chain and tensioner should be replaced.

Even if your timing is off, it does not explain your oil pressure loss. Low oil pressure usually results from not enough oil in engine, or oil pump failure.


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## Paul902 (Oct 10, 2007)

Thanks for your reply, Zach. She has been starting and running smoothly since that one incident. I'll put the tensioner aside as a potential issue. If I see the low oil pressure warning again, I think my next moves would be to change the oil pressure switch, measure the oil pressure manually with a gauge, and drop the oil pan to check the pump's pickup screen.


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## Paul902 (Oct 10, 2007)

Further question about the cam tensioner: Does it work by spring pressure, or is it by oil pressure? Above, Michael Dane says, "soon oil was coming out the bleeder hole in the tensioner. I found the bleeder hole in the old broken tensioner was plugged and wonder if this contributed to it's failure." which is leading me to think it might be oil pressure, like a hydraulic lifter.

Reason I ask is because I am trying to bottom out cause and effect. I had the oil pressure warning light, and noisy engine again. See thread. I am wondering if the noise I hear could be poor timing caused by not a slip in the timing chain, but it just being loose while I have low oil pressure. On both occassions, after a couple minutes of warmup the noise and pressure warning went away.


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## vwisthebest (Sep 17, 2003)

It is a hydraulic tensioner - that means oil pressure is used for its function. I believe there may be a small spring in the tensioner just to keep the chain taut while the engine is not running. A major oil pressure loss might create an opportunity for chain skipping on the gear.

Make sure you are doing regular oil changes in 5k-7k intervals. Use a high-quality European full synthetic oil. These oils meet more strict requirements than what the US says can be a "full" synthetic. Motul, Liqui Moly, Total, Eneos, Pentosin, etc. are all good. Ester oils are even better, such as Motul 300v and all Redline oils. Beside less issues of sludge and/or blockage, these higher quality oils will aid in other benefits as well - making the cam follower last longer, as well as making less oil in PCV gases due to their lower volatility properties.


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## Paul902 (Oct 10, 2007)

Thanks. So, if the noise I hear is poor timing, it could be caused by the low oil pressure not tensioning the cam chain properly. I suspect the tensioner because the noise sounds like it is up high on the engine, and is 1-1 with the RPM. Sounds like I really need to bottom out the reason for intermittent, cold start, low oil pressure. Both times the car had been sitting for 2-3 days. This morning, when it was even colder, it started and ran no problem, after sitting only about 18 hours, and it has been fine on multiple starts when it is fully warmed up.


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## tdibrid (Sep 3, 2008)

Michael W Dane said:


> I had to make this repair in my very limited spare time so it took a couple of months from start to finish. Honestly I had a hard time understanding these cam chain timing instructions. There is a copper colored link on the chain that isn't mentioned ANYWHERE I looked. The cam lock doesn't really lock the cams is any specific location either.
> 
> When the belt timing marks are lined up cylinder #4 is TDC firing position. Another oddity is the crank gear that drives the timing belt. this gear is not round but is slightly elliptical to reduce stress on the timing belt.
> 
> ...


Q
Ccgh 

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