# '14 2.5L repeated P0106



## Briggy (Aug 19, 2014)

so I've done the remove TB and clean, but the problem keeps coming back, I'm thinking to remove the fully clean the manifold, or just replace it ($175) on amazon., any recommendations here.


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## mjb8482 (Mar 4, 2008)

Duplicate post deleted.


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## mjb8482 (Mar 4, 2008)

I would pull out your MAP sensor and clean it. They get gummed up with oil. 


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

mjb8482 said:


> I would pull out your MAP sensor and clean it. They get gummed up with oil.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


also, clean the pcv tube. i got better results when it was cleaned. it is the actual conduit for the oil vapor.


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## halbwissen (Jul 20, 2001)

Much of what I'm about to say is repeating others, but I'll say it anyway...

Thoroughly clean the intake manifold, throttle body, MAP, and PCV hose (from valve cover to manifold). You will also need to do a throttle body adaptation with VCDS when you're done (don't skip this).


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## J.R.Freeman (Apr 19, 2008)

Rather than start a new thread I'll just jump in on this one (if I may):

My 2010 Jetta 2.5L also has a recurring DTC P0106. I removed the MAP and throttle body and found oil in the intake, and covering the sensor. Suspecting the common PCV failure, I replaced the PCV internals with a kit from ECS tuning. I cleared the DTC but it has returned. I once again removed the throttle body and MAP, and found some oil, but perhaps not as much as the first time.

Could this just be residual oil, from the PCV hose (which I did not clean)? 

Thanks for your time.


edit: is the throttle body adaptation step mentioned above required? I have had the TB off twice now and have not performed that step, without issue.


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## spathotan (Jun 14, 2013)

J.R.Freeman said:


> edit: is the throttle body adaptation step mentioned above required? I have had the TB off twice now and have not performed that step, without issue.


Yea ive had mine off yesterday and didnt need to to anything fancy. Just removed the negative terminal before I unplugged it. Ive seen on some parts sites that coding may be needed after REPLACING the throttle body.


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

I recently got a check engine light and pulled P0106. I've been experiencing some jerky downshifting/sputtering/inconsistent RPMs at low speeds ( car runs fine at higher speeds ). 

Have any of you experienced the same symptoms as I have?

I'm going to replace the sensor and clean the PCV + manifold + TB and see what happens.

Cheers


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

Replaced PCV (turned out it had a torn diaphragm) and MAP sensor (covered in oil) this weekend. Cleaned out the throttle body and intake manifold as well. Stuttering/jerking at low RPM has gone. Will update this if it comes back.


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

well f**k. Code came back today. I knew it was inevitable as it was jerky at low RPMs and stuttering about.

I scanned and got P0106 and now also have P2178 and P2188. 

So far I have:

1. Replaced PCV ( had a torn diaphragm )
2. Replaced MAP sensor ( old one was coated in oil )
3. Cleaned Throttle Body
4. Cleaned inside of Intake Manifold ( as best as I could )


ON A SIDE NOTE: My clip on the intake piping just to the right of the Oil fill cap is missing ( see pic ). Could this be the cause?










Thoughts/Suggestions?

In regards to the software update to resolve this - will this be a free service by a VW dealer?


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## mjb8482 (Mar 4, 2008)

I’ve replaced pcv diaphragms and had them rip within a couple weeks. May need entire valve cover or just go VTA and plug the port on the manifold. 


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

kieran123 said:


> ON A SIDE NOTE: My clip on the intake piping just to the right of the Oil fill cap is missing ( see pic ). Could this be the cause?
> 
> Thoughts/Suggestions?
> 
> In regards to the software update to resolve this - will this be a free service by a VW dealer?


you need that clip or you'll pull un-metered air post MAF.

the software update will be at least an hour worth of labor at the dealership.

also, you don't have to replace the MAP sensor when it gets oil on it. you just wipe it with a napkin. oil does not damage it.


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

I am at my wits end. Going to book this software update, then see what happens. If that doesn't fix it, I'm driving it into a large body of water


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

kieran123 said:


> I am at my wits end. Going to book this software update, then see what happens. If that doesn't fix it, I'm driving it into a large body of water


you must diagnose the other two codes before trying to remedy the P0106 error code.

you could have a leaky injector or a vacuum leak. a software update is not going to repair either of those physical problems.


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

le0n said:


> you must diagnose the other two codes before trying to remedy the P0106 error code.
> 
> you could have a leaky injector or a vacuum leak. a software update is not going to repair either of those physical problems.



So even though the symptoms go away when I clear the codes? I used a "non OEM" MAP sensor which I now regret. I'll replace it with the actual OEM part and check for vacuum leaks. The fact it's running rich assumes there's a leak before the MAF/TB, correct?


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## Ronny Bensys (Apr 17, 2014)

kieran123 said:


> So even though the symptoms go away when I clear the codes? I used a "non OEM" MAP sensor which I now regret. I'll replace it with the actual OEM part and check for vacuum leaks. The fact it's running rich assumes there's a leak before the MAF/TB, correct?


I was just going to tell you check your new MAP sensor's part number.

Before driving your car into a large body of water.... 1. Do software update. 2. Check and replace your CTS. Check if your CTS reads normal temperature values. If not, replace.

On the other hand, you really don't have to clean your intake manifold and throttle valve. I think the state of cleanliess has very little to do with the failing MAP sensor. I think, not the oil vapor but high temperature kills the sensor. Therefore PCV diaphragm must be in good order. Oil level shouldn't exceed midline.

You even didn't mention your year/engine/milage.


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## bmurray716 (Mar 11, 2010)

I have posted both here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7720330-000262-and-01314-Faults-Related

and here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5626102-Picking-your-brain-again-vortexers-09-Rabbit-P0106-P2178-P2188

seems like the latter is the more complete thread regarding this issue. Of course there are posts about this scattered about vortex as well as the web. 

One thing that I found out yesterday is that the TSB for the ECM reflash only pertains to 2011-2014 model years. In my experience, (I have a 2010 Jetta S) if you are not within those model years, they will not perform the reflash.


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

kieran123 said:


> I used a "non OEM" MAP sensor which I now regret.


wipe the original one with a napkin and reinstall.


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

Ronny Bensys said:


> I was just going to tell you check your new MAP sensor's part number.
> 
> Before driving your car into a large body of water.... 1. Do software update. 2. Check and replace your CTS. Check if your CTS reads normal temperature values. If not, replace.
> 
> ...


I have ordered a OEM MAP sensor (Bosch Brand, I hope that's right). I pulled it all apart again this weekend, and the intake manifold and MAP were covered in oil again. It's funny you mention temperature being the issue, as my car only starts acting up after driving around for 20 or so miles. When it's cold, it runs perfectly fine.

My last reading for my coolant temp sensor was 87 degrees C according to the Torque Pro app

Car is a 2012 2.5 77000km

Maybe the valve cover needs replacing?


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

Bit the bullet and have booked it in for service on Friday. Will update thread with "results"


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## Ronny Bensys (Apr 17, 2014)

kieran123 said:


> I have ordered a OEM MAP sensor (Bosch Brand, I hope that's right). I pulled it all apart again this weekend, and the intake manifold and MAP were covered in oil again. It's funny you mention temperature being the issue, as my car only starts acting up after driving around for 20 or so miles. When it's cold, it runs perfectly fine.
> 
> My last reading for my coolant temp sensor was 87 degrees C according to the Torque Pro app
> 
> ...


The coolant temp sensor is located where the temperature is always 87 C . VW is a joke.

The problem is when the oil level is higher than dipstick midline, we have a lot of hot oil vapor flowing/recycling through PCV. I mean higher than the amount the incoming air could absorb. The MAP sensor is not designed for high temperatures. Needless to say, it is located at the point where hot vapor is running out of the PCV pipe.

Check your CTS at various conditions, like before cold start, after 5 mins. trip or so. When it is getting too old, it fails to read certain ranges.

My car is one of the earliest lots and the software is old too. I replaced my CTS and MAP sensor, and have been good so far. But I'm really unsure if this is true for your car too.


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

Ronny Bensys said:


> The coolant temp sensor is located where the temperature is always 87 C . VW is a joke.
> 
> The problem is when the oil level is higher than dipstick midline, we have a lot of hot oil vapor flowing/recycling through PCV. I mean higher than the amount the incoming air could absorb. The MAP sensor is not designed for high temperatures. Needless to say, it is located at the point where hot vapor is running out of the PCV pipe.
> 
> ...


I appreciate your help :thumbup:

What a convoluted mess to try and figure out this stupid code. 

So far the reason(s) could be:

bad MAP sensor
bad PCV/valve cover
bad CTS
oil level
outdated software
vacuum leak

There are probably other causes too....nice work VW.


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

Dropped car at the dealer today. Already feeling like it;s a waste of time. Refused to acknowledge me when I mentioned the TSB regarding the software update. Then again, they know better than I do, so they're probably just sick of people like me suggesting things


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

So, as expected they wanted to replace the MAP sensor and PCV....which I've already done....and they wanted $1077.00 to do it LOL

They are going to do the software update for me and I am going to replace the MAP (again) and the valve cover.


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## bmurray716 (Mar 11, 2010)

kieran123 said:


> well f**k. Code came back today. I knew it was inevitable as it was jerky at low RPMs and stuttering about.
> 
> I scanned and got P0106 and now also have P2178 and P2188.
> 
> ...


From the pic, I see the clip as being present. Are you using a stock engine photo?

Also, would be helpful if you indicated what car you have (make, model, year).


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

So, this weekend I replaced the MAP (again), replaced the valve cover and cleaned the intake manifold (again). Both the MAP and Valve Cover and OEM VW parts.

Drove to work today....annnnd got P0106 pending.

I really don't know what's left to do here....throttle body?

Things done:

Software Update
Map Sensor Replaced
Intake Manifold Cleaned
Valve Cover Replaced
TB Cleaned

I want to add, I am not just getting the code. I am getting hesitation at low speeds, and only after driving for ~30 minutes on the highway. I can drive around town for the same amount of tie and NOT get any codes or RPM issues.


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## J.R.Freeman (Apr 19, 2008)

Kieran your engine bay looks beautiful! Did you paint your engine cover / battery box? It looks awesome!


I wasn't sure if I should chime in on this thread or start a new one - but I am having similar troubles with my 2010 Jetta 2.5. Here's what has happened so far (in the past month)


• P0106 "MAP / BARO performance problem"
• Oil found inside plenum and on MAP
• Replaced PCV diaphragm with ECS tuning kit, cleaned plenum and MAP, cleared code
• P0106 returns, drive for a week, also P0507 "Idle Air Control (IAC) System RPM Higher Than Expected", idle wandering up to 1500 RPM sometimes
• Replaced PCV diaphragm with Dorman kit suspecting cheap ECS kit, cleaned oil from plenum and MAP
• P0106 returns, idle wandering again this morning on the way to work ​

If some of the VW gurus out there could help me with a few questions:


Is the PCV system the only way oil could find itself into the intake?
Could the vacuum pump system be a possible cause?
If it still sounds like PCV - should I buy a whole new replacement valve cover assembly? My vavle cover appears undamaged, but after 2 diaphram kits, could the cover be the issue?
As I did not clean the PCV tube (hangs head in shame) could this just be residual oil? Could oil on the MAP also cause P0507 or would it have to be un-metered air (vacuum leak)? 


Thanks for your help. This is driving me nuts.


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

J.R.Freeman said:


> Kieran your engine bay looks beautiful! Did you paint your engine cover / battery box? It looks awesome!
> 
> 
> I wasn't sure if I should chime in on this thread or start a new one - but I am having similar troubles with my 2010 Jetta 2.5. Here's what has happened so far (in the past month)
> ...


I would pull apart again and do a THOROUGH clean first (MAP, Intake Manifold and hosing). If issue persists, then order the Valve Cover. 

Are you getting any weird hesitation at low speeds?

I really don't know what the f*ck is going on TBH. I have thoroughly cleaned everything and replaced the recommended parts and I still have the issues.

I am at the point of replacing the TB, or trying to figure out if I have electrical issues at the MAP sensor.

Or, the small chance I have a faulty MAP sensor for the 3rd time.

This is the stupidest car issue I have ever come across. I am $1200 in and still no go.

Last VW I will own.


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## bmurray716 (Mar 11, 2010)

bmurray716 said:


> From the pic, I see the clip as being present. Are you using a stock engine photo?
> 
> 
> Also, would be helpful if you indicated what car you have (make, model, year).


Kieran123

You never responded to these questions.

Also, I don't see anywhere where you post up a VCDS scan. This is critical. Beg, borrow (dont steal) a vcds cable from a local (or buy one, their handy). clear all codes and drive for a day or two till the cel comes back on (or doesn't) and rescan. Post up.


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

bmurray716 said:


> Kieran123
> 
> You never responded to these questions.
> 
> Also, I don't see anywhere where you post up a VCDS scan. This is critical. Beg, borrow (dont steal) a vcds cable from a local (or buy one, their handy). clear all codes and drive for a day or two till the cel comes back on (or doesn't) and rescan. Post up.



The clip is now present and in place. Car is a 2012 2.5 jetta

Where can I get a VCDS cable? Do I need to buy software too?


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## Ronny Bensys (Apr 17, 2014)

kieran123.

Did you check your coolant temperature sensor?


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

Ronny Bensys said:


> kieran123.
> 
> Did you check your coolant temperature sensor?


Hi Ronny,

No I haven't. Where is it located and what should I check for?


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## Ronny Bensys (Apr 17, 2014)

J.R.Freeman said:


> If some of the VW gurus out there could help me with a few questions:
> 
> 
> Is the PCV system the only way oil could find itself into the intake?
> ...


I'm not a VW guru but I'll try answering your questions


*Is the PCV system the only way oil could find itself into the intake?*
Yes, the PCV system is the only way excessive oil vapor could contaminate the intake. However, the vapor is not as dangerous as its high temperature.

*Could the vacuum pump system be a possible cause?*
Vacuum pump is driven by chain sprocket. It is connected to the brake booster. Normally, it has very little to do with the vacuum created by the intake manifold. But if there is a small crack in the booster hose, vacuum leak could cause pressure fluctuations inside the engine.

*If it still sounds like PCV - should I buy a whole new replacement valve cover assembly? My vavle cover appears undamaged, but after 2 diaphram kits, could the cover be the issue?*
Not actually, you don't have to. Check the PCV diaphram housing, if it is full of oil residue, then your engine is suffering overfill or maybe the oil is not suitable for your engine. Always choose low NOACK volatile oils.

*As I did not clean the PCV tube (hangs head in shame) could this just be residual oil? Could oil on the MAP also cause P0507 or would it have to be un-metered air (vacuum leak)?* 
Cleaning PCV tube is like cleaning your umbrella in a rainy day. If the PCV system cannot handle oil vapor then the tube will again be oily in few days.
Your issue seems to be different from that of Kieran. Idle air level is controlled by Throttle Valve. The module is located inside the housing. You need additional diagnostics to find if the TB is faulty.


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## Ronny Bensys (Apr 17, 2014)

kieran123 said:


> Hi Ronny,
> 
> No I haven't. Where is it located and what should I check for?


Check its readings with a OBDII tool. Check in the morning before cold startup, after the startup 5 mins or so, and finally when the engine is heated up. Check outside air temp. and compare it to sensor reading. Before a cold startup, outside air and engine temperatures should be equal.

What brand and grade oil you use?


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## bmurray716 (Mar 11, 2010)

kieran123 said:


> The clip is now present and in place. Car is a 2012 2.5 jetta
> 
> Where can I get a VCDS cable? Do I need to buy software too?


OK, so you've got a clamp on there. Good.

As far as a VCDS scan, the company is Ross-Tech and they sell a few different products (dongles) that I believe would work for you. The dongle is what is purchased (usually around $200 or so) and the program is free to download. 

I don't know what part of the county you are in, but if near a city there may be a local vw club near by that you may be able to borrow a cable or have someone run the scan for you. There is a vcdc locator app here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4991419-Vag-Com-Locator-searchable-map-style!-Owners-pm-me-your-info-requested-in-the-thread. I borrow a cable from a work mate and get him a six pack of beer. I've practically paid for the cost of his cable in beer. 

The vcds is a great tool to help isolate what parameters are out of whack so your not just fishing in the dark. You may want to check out my link to a post where I have provided my scan just to get an idea. 

Just to let you know, I had to have the throttle body replaced to address my issue. It was covered under warranty and I did not have an extended warranty. I was very surprised.


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

bmurray716 said:


> OK, so you've got a clamp on there. Good.
> 
> As far as a VCDS scan, the company is Ross-Tech and they sell a few different products (dongles) that I believe would work for you. The dongle is what is purchased (usually around $200 or so) and the program is free to download.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info.

I think I am going to bite the bullet and order this scanner: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwabe...fessional-vw-audi-scan-tool/007868sch01b~scf/

I'm going to check my MAP kPa and TB angles - among other things.

I've also read a lot about loose bolts on the intake manifold on these engines. I assume this, and a stuck open TB would cause bad barometric pressure, which the MAP then picks up, throwing the code P0106.

I am very much leaning towards a TB at this moment. The chances of have 3 bad MAP's just seems too far fetched.

I slightly stripped a bolt on my TB last time (DOH! used the wrong size torx FFS) so I will see how far I get.


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

Ronny Bensys said:


> Check its readings with a OBDII tool. Check in the morning before cold startup, after the startup 5 mins or so, and finally when the engine is heated up. Check outside air temp. and compare it to sensor reading. Before a cold startup, outside air and engine temperatures should be equal.
> 
> What brand and grade oil you use?


Thanks Ronny. I will check after work and post results. I'm in Calgary and it's cold most of the time here, so will compare readings.

I use Castrol Edge 5w40 Full Synthetic. Funny you mention that. This all started happening a few days after I took it in for an oil change at the dealer


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## Ronny Bensys (Apr 17, 2014)

kieran123 said:


> Thanks Ronny. I will check after work and post results. I'm in Calgary and it's cold most of the time here, so will compare readings.
> 
> I use Castrol Edge 5w40 Full Synthetic. Funny you mention that. This all started happening a few days after I took it in for an oil change at the dealer


Better check your oil level for peace of mind.

Edge 5w40's Noack Volatility is 11% according Castrol pds. That means the oil is very volatile under certain conditions. On the other hand, VW specifies 6.3 quarts oil fill volume which is considerably higher than dipstick midline.


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

Some readings:

BARO PSI at the MAP holds and never moves from 13.1 PSI
Intake PSI varies from 2.5PSI up to 13.1PSI depending on gas pedal
Air:Fuel Ratio 14.7:1 idle and 29:1 with gas pedal down
Coolant started at 18*C with an outside temp of 12*C up to 90*C at end of journey
Absolute Throttle Position B is 12.55% at idle
Fuel Trim Bank 1 Long Term is roughly -4.7%

Any thoughts or opinions on these numbers? They seem fine to me. I can smell fuel when I start the car up from cold, and my oil smells slightly gassy


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## Ronny Bensys (Apr 17, 2014)

kieran123 said:


> Some readings:
> 
> BARO PSI at the MAP holds and never moves from 13.1 PSI
> Intake PSI varies from 2.5PSI up to 13.1PSI depending on gas pedal


Please check intake pressure at idle and at 2000 rpm while the car is not moving. Considering that your MAP sensor is new, check the wiring (positive and GND). Maximum specified resistance for the wiring and harness is 1.5 Ohm. Voltage is specified to 5.0 V.



kieran123 said:


> Coolant started at 18*C with an outside temp of 12*C up to 90*C at end of journey


Continue checking for several days. Coolant and outside temp should be equal, +-1 degree in the mornings.



kieran123 said:


> Fuel Trim Bank 1 Long Term is roughly -4.7%
> Any thoughts or opinions on these numbers? They seem fine to me. I can smell fuel when I start the car up from cold, and my oil smells slightly gassy


Your engine runs slightly rich. Long term fuel trim tries to compensate for rich condition. Vacuum leak would cause a positive fuel trim.
The parameter should be reviewed after you repair the car.


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

Ronny Bensys said:


> Please check intake pressure at idle and at 2000 rpm while the car is not moving. Considering that your MAP sensor is new, check the wiring (positive and GND). Maximum specified resistance for the wiring and harness is 1.5 Ohm. Voltage is specified to 5.0 V.
> 
> 
> Continue checking for several days. Coolant and outside temp should be equal, +-1 degree in the mornings.
> ...



1. Intake pressure is ~4.0 PSI at 2000RPM
2. How can I check voltage on the MAP? Will I need a multimeter? Can't find anything on OBDII that shows MAP voltage
3. At idle, my short term fuel trim is ~10 and at 2000rpm, it goes to -15. Long term trim stays around -4. 
4. Coolant temps seem fine. Matched outside temp last night and this morning.

My next move is to read with a VAG scanner (specifically TB, and hopefully MAP Voltage), then have the dealership replace the wiring harness on the MAP.


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## Ronny Bensys (Apr 17, 2014)

kieran123 said:


> 1. Intake pressure is ~4.0 PSI at 2000RPM


I'll check my OBDII readings tomorrow and compare to yours. *Please check the pressure at idle too.*



kieran123 said:


> 2. How can I check voltage on the MAP? Will I need a multimeter? Can't find anything on OBDII that shows MAP voltage


Yes, you need a multimeter. Remove the connector and measure the voltage while engine is running. Then stop the engine and measure wiring resistance, between the MAP sensor and the ECU. You also need OBDII tool just in case the ECU goes into limp mode when you remove the connector. It will set P0106 which you'll then reset.



kieran123 said:


> 3. At idle, my short term fuel trim is ~10 and at 2000rpm, it goes to -15. Long term trim stays around -4.


*~10 positive or negative?* The engine is running rich condition at 2000 rpm. Strong fuel smell on cold startups confirms the condition.

At this point you have only 3 possibilities:

1. Not enough air is reaching the combustion chamber --> clogged air filter or air filter never changed or low athmospheric pressure (Calgary?)
2. More than the commanded amount of fuel is reaching the combustion chambers --> leaking injector
3. One or more sensors is reporting incorrectly.


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

Ronny Bensys said:


> I'll check my OBDII readings tomorrow and compare to yours. *Please check the pressure at idle too.*
> 
> 
> Yes, you need a multimeter. Remove the connector and measure the voltage while engine is running. Then stop the engine and measure wiring resistance, between the MAP sensor and the ECU. You also need OBDII tool just in case the ECU goes into limp mode when you remove the connector. It will set P0106 which you'll then reset.
> ...



1. Idle is 2.5
2. OK, I will look into that.
3. Positive. I will add at the beginning of my journey, it is around 0. It's only once it starts acting up (ie. pending code) that it fluctuates so much

Air filter was changed ~50kms ago. 
I have thought about injectors, and may get someone to check them for me
This is what I think it is. Either my TB sensors, or my map wiring is damaged.

I appreciate the help Ronny!


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## hewazimk6 (Mar 7, 2018)

*updates? 03/01/2018*

hey kieran123

thanks so much for keeping us updated on your process. i also have the same problem, been struggling with it for a few years now. 

any updates to this day?


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

hewazimk6 said:


> hey kieran123
> 
> thanks so much for keeping us updated on your process. i also have the same problem, been struggling with it for a few years now.
> 
> any updates to this day?



Issue is fixed as of now by doing the following:

1. removed TB and throroughly cleaned ( decent amount of carbon build up since my last clean around 3000km ago)
2. removed and thorougly cleaned PCV hose from valve cover to intake manifold. This thing was dirty.
3. Cleaned the "nipple" out on the valve cover where the PCV hose connects
4. Cleaned the "nipple" on the intake manifold where the other end of the PCV hose connects
5. Cleaned out the intake manifold plenum THOROUGHLY. I spent an hour doing this. There was a lot of oil. I got it completely clean as best I could.
6. Cleaned out the little hole where the MAP sensor goes
7. Re tightened bolts on valve cover
8. Replaced MAP with new part and re installed everything

It doesn't make much sense as I had done all of these things minus step 2-4. But who knows, that may have been the issue the entire time?

I've driven ~2000km since the above was completed. I assume it will creep up again, and will likely pull my hair out as I did this time, but at least I can go through the above steps and hopefully get it functioning correctly for a temporary period until I sell this piece of junk 

That's crazy you've had it for a few years. What have you tried?


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## hewazimk6 (Mar 7, 2018)

kieran123 said:


> Issue is fixed as of now by doing the following:
> 
> 1. removed TB and throroughly cleaned ( decent amount of carbon build up since my last clean around 3000km ago)
> 2. removed and thorougly cleaned PCV hose from valve cover to intake manifold. This thing was dirty.
> ...




well honestly the first two years i didnt do anything. it would appear and go away without any type of pattern. the past couple of months its just been on. then it disappears for a month then comes back. i wouldnt mind the light if it wasnt for the lurching at low gears, feeling like im gonna fly out the front window. every time i took it to the dealership, obviously the light was off and they couldnt find the issue (or maybe didnt bother looking/listening to me)

so after getting sick of the issue, i decided to take matters into my own hands and do what everyone says. 
1) changed the PCV diaphragm 
2) cleaned the throttle body (even though it wasnt that dirty)
3) cleaned the intake that was connected to the throttle body 
4) took out and cleaned the MAP sensor and the hole that it inserts to 

Thats about it and after all that, and resetting the CEL, no change....

One thing to add. My intake duct seems to always separate from the front of the car where the screws are. Apparently my screws fell out sometime ago? I dont know if that would cause all the problems or anything.

Car keeps going back to those same movements but the light has not come back on. Its been 650 km. 
(2012 VW 2.5L - DOHC)


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

hewazimk6 said:


> well honestly the first two years i didnt do anything. it would appear and go away without any type of pattern. the past couple of months its just been on. then it disappears for a month then comes back. i wouldnt mind the light if it wasnt for the lurching at low gears, feeling like im gonna fly out the front window. every time i took it to the dealership, obviously the light was off and they couldnt find the issue (or maybe didnt bother looking/listening to me)
> 
> so after getting sick of the issue, i decided to take matters into my own hands and do what everyone says.
> 1) changed the PCV diaphragm
> ...


Next steps would be to clean the PCV hose, MAP sensor and intake manifold plenum again (thoroughly) and if that fails, replace the Valve Cover with OEM part. Diaphragm replacement is hit or miss.


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## hewazimk6 (Mar 7, 2018)

kieran123 said:


> Next steps would be to clean the PCV hose, MAP sensor and intake manifold plenum again (thoroughly) and if that fails, replace the Valve Cover with OEM part. Diaphragm replacement is hit or miss.



got it. im new to cars and pretty much anything that has to do with fixing them. anyway you could direct me to what exactly is meant by the 1)PCV hose and the 2)Valve Cover? Also, what is the best source to purchase OEM parts (including air and cabin filters)?


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

hewazimk6 said:


> got it. im new to cars and pretty much anything that has to do with fixing them. anyway you could direct me to what exactly is meant by the 1)PCV hose and the 2)Valve Cover? Also, what is the best source to purchase OEM parts (including air and cabin filters)?


https://www.vwpartsvortex.com/

The Valve Cover is the plastic cover where you would have installed your PCV diaphragm. The PCV hose is the hose that runs from the Valve Cover to the Intake Manifold. You can see it in the below pic running from next to the PCV diaphragm down to beside the throttle body:

http://www.carthrottle.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/jettaeng.jpg


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## hewazimk6 (Mar 7, 2018)

kieran123 said:


> https://www.vwpartsvortex.com/
> 
> The Valve Cover is the plastic cover where you would have installed your PCV diaphragm. The PCV hose is the hose that runs from the Valve Cover to the Intake Manifold. You can see it in the below pic running from next to the PCV diaphragm down to beside the throttle body:
> 
> http://www.carthrottle.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/jettaeng.jpg



so i plan to do all the steps this weekend. just wanted to add that my engine air filter has not been changed in over 2 years. i also wanted to add that i had the code removed and everything went back to normal for a few days. until it came back. so i guess this weekend i shall be quite busy 

any additions or anything that i should make sure i dont forget ? 

thanks again man for all your help/input


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

hewazimk6 said:


> so i plan to do all the steps this weekend. just wanted to add that my engine air filter has not been changed in over 2 years. i also wanted to add that i had the code removed and everything went back to normal for a few days. until it came back. so i guess this weekend i shall be quite busy
> 
> any additions or anything that i should make sure i dont forget ?
> 
> thanks again man for all your help/input


Not really. Just clean, clean, clean. Especially the intake manifold plenum and that hose. Once you think its clean, clean it again. For the PCV hose, I used warm water and some dish soap and ran water through until it was crystal clear. If you have some electrical contact cleaner, spray some on the MAP sensor connector, let it dry, then re connect it too.


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## hewazimk6 (Mar 7, 2018)

kieran123 said:


> Not really. Just clean, clean, clean. Especially the intake manifold plenum and that hose. Once you think its clean, clean it again. For the PCV hose, I used warm water and some dish soap and ran water through until it was crystal clear. If you have some electrical contact cleaner, spray some on the MAP sensor connector, let it dry, then re connect it too.



03/17/2018

alrighttt so i began by removing all the necessary parts then i did the following: 

1) clean intake manifold plenum as best as i could using throttle cleaner, microfiber towel, and some sticks to make it reach
2) clean MAP sensor with MAP sensor clean and clean out the hole and its surrounding areas
3) remove pipe connecting intake with PCV, clean with hot water, soap, and throttle/intake cleaner
4) clean out the holes that the pipe inserted into (one at PCV valve and other at intake manifold)
5) clean throttle body best i could while it was still connected (carefully)
6) remove all dust/dirt from around the areas of the pipes and make sure theres no other excess oil around 
7) replace engine air filter

car ran like brand new... it was an amazing feeling that made me happy but also anxious of when it was gonna disappoint me again :/

just wanted to say thank you for teaching me so much about my car and for the experience and help, kieran123!
will keep you all updated


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## hewazimk6 (Mar 7, 2018)

hewazimk6 said:


> 03/17/2018
> 
> alrighttt so i began by removing all the necessary parts then i did the following:
> 
> ...


03/20/2018

hey guys so i guess my car is confused and doesnt know how to act. the CEL came back and its doing its usual jumping but its running normal at times as well. 

dont know what else to do i guess


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## Ronny Bensys (Apr 17, 2014)

hewazimk6 said:


> 03/20/2018
> 
> hey guys so i guess my car is confused and doesnt know how to act. the CEL came back and its doing its usual jumping but its running normal at times as well.
> 
> dont know what else to do i guess


Cleaning the intake manifold and others around is waste of time.

Remove, check and replace the following:
- MAP sensor connector
- the wiring to the ECU
- check the resistance, replace if higher than 1.5 Ohm
- software update (dealership job)
- if your car has >40,000 miles on it, and you always fill 6.3 quarts oil, then your MAP sensor is out. Replace the sensor as well.


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## hewazimk6 (Mar 7, 2018)

Ronny Bensys said:


> Cleaning the intake manifold and others around is waste of time.
> 
> Remove, check and replace the following:
> - MAP sensor connector
> ...



thanks Ronny

i do always fill 6.3 quarts when i change the oil. would i still check the rest of the stuff or just replace the MAP sensor? 

also, how can i check the wiring to the ECU?


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## Ronny Bensys (Apr 17, 2014)

hewazimk6 said:


> thanks Ronny
> 
> i do always fill 6.3 quarts when i change the oil. would i still check the rest of the stuff or just replace the MAP sensor?
> 
> also, how can i check the wiring to the ECU?


You should still check the rest. Use multimeter for measuring the resistance.


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## #Kraut (Feb 27, 2017)

*P0106 Code*

Hey! I had the awful P0106 code for over a year on my 2011 sportwagen 2.5 auto. I had a new MAP sensor installed but the code came back.

After a few months, I took it to the dealer and told them its their fault and showed them the codes and thew a fit. Fortunately for me, they had a new tech and he did a throttle body alignment! BAM that’s all it took to get rid of the code!

Drivability would come and go and I would use my OBDeleven to readjust the throttle body every once in a while. 

However, then I used the OBDeleven device to re-calibrate my cam timing for regular fuel and drivability has been excellent! 

I hope this helps someone else out there...you're not alone.


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## fonkeevagen (Sep 20, 2018)

#Kraut said:


> Hey! I had the awful P0106 code for over a year on my 2011 sportwagen 2.5 auto. I had a new MAP sensor installed but the code came back.
> 
> After a few months, I took it to the dealer and told them its their fault and showed them the codes and thew a fit. Fortunately for me, they had a new tech and he did a throttle body alignment! BAM that’s all it took to get rid of the code!
> 
> ...


Will VW Dealers honor working TSBs and known issues on my used 2010 S Wagen 2.5 Auto that I just purchased? Without spending an arm n leg? thanks in advance


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

fonkeevagen said:


> Will VW Dealers honor working TSBs and known issues on my used 2010 S Wagen 2.5 Auto that I just purchased? Without spending an arm n leg? thanks in advance


They'll honor TSBs, but you still have to pay for the service. Only recalls are covered.


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## hungdang1312 (Oct 22, 2018)

Ronny Bensys said:


> Cleaning the intake manifold and others around is waste of time.
> 
> Remove, check and replace the following:
> - MAP sensor connector
> ...


What is the software update we are talking about? What should I tell the dealer in order to do the software update? How does it help with the P0106 issue?

Thanks.


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## hungdang1312 (Oct 22, 2018)

kieran123 said:


> They'll honor TSBs, but you still have to pay for the service. Only recalls are covered.


@kieran123, did you finally have the code resolved? Did the cleaning work?

Also I am very confused when looking at the MAP sensor replacement. 

There are two same MAP sensor from BOSCH but they are sold at very different prices
Amazon Link

AutoStore Link

Is the cheaper one not worth to buy?

Please help.

Thanks.


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## Ronny Bensys (Apr 17, 2014)

hungdang1312 said:


> What is the software update we are talking about? What should I tell the dealer in order to do the software update? How does it help with the P0106 issue?
> 
> Thanks.


Not sure about the update version or TSB#. Basically, the dealership checks the availability of software update with an online diagnostic device connected to your car. Not all VINs are eligible. You should ask the dealer to check your car for available software updates.

The software update helped to eliminate P0106 for some Jetta owners. We don't know real fraction of lucky owners though.


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

hungdang1312 said:


> @kieran123, did you finally have the code resolved? Did the cleaning work?


Yes, mine stopped throwing codes after a THOROUGH cleaning. Included in that cleaning was the intake plenum, MAP, Throttle Body and all PCV hoses (flushed with warm mild soapy water)

I had also had the software update done as well as replacing the MAP and the Valve Cover prior to the cleaning, to no avail.


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## hungdang1312 (Oct 22, 2018)

kieran123 said:


> Yes, mine stopped throwing codes after a THOROUGH cleaning. Included in that cleaning was the intake plenum, MAP, Throttle Body and all PCV hoses (flushed with warm mild soapy water)
> 
> I had also had the software update done as well as replacing the MAP and the Valve Cover prior to the cleaning, to no avail.


I read somewhere saying that if we replace the MAP sensor we need to pay around $150 for the dealer to flash the software. Is that true?

Please help.


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## hungdang1312 (Oct 22, 2018)

I tried really hard but I could not get the PCV hose off from the valve cover. What did you guys use to take it off other than just fingers? :-(


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## hungdang1312 (Oct 22, 2018)

*UPDATED 05 Feb 2019: more than 1200 miles and 3 - 4 months after the 3rd clean up. The weather has been crazily cold in the past few weeks and it is still holding strong. I no longer own the car as I have sold it to a friend of mine so this is going to be my last edit. For folks having cars with this code, good luck  *

Here is my journey.

1 st clean up: CEL with Code P0106. I pulled the MAP sensor and the throttle body out and clean it up. I was not very much aware of what the throttle body was by that time but it was dirty so I just cleaned it. Before unplugging the MAP sensor, I unplugged the negative battery terminal just to be safe. When I put it back, the CEL showed up. I drove the car for a few days and the code was gone by itself.

2 nd clean up: After a month or two, my car batter died. I replaced a new battery and drove the car for a few days. Then the CEL showed up again with P0106 fault. I took out the MAP sensor and cleaned it then put it back. I also replace the PCV diaphragm using Dorman kit as it was torn. I cleared the fault and the code showed up again after only 1 day of driving.

3rd clean up: I tooked the MAP sensor out. I realized that I did not screwed the MAP sensor all the way as the bolt was hard to get to. I double-checked the MAP sensor and screwed the bolt in carefully. I also ensured the MAP sensor was plugged into the harness correctly. I also sprayed the connector well with cleaner. Then I cleaned the throttle body thoroughly with Throttle body cleaner. I also bought the Hex-V2 Vag com cable and did the throttle body adaptation. As stated on Ross Tech wiki and also some of the material I read, the TBA is a required procedure when the vehicle battery is disconnected or the TB is cleaned. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Throttle_Body_Alignment_(TBA)
It has been day 2 with 40 miles on it and the CEL has not come back yet. Knock on Wood!!!!

BTW, I still need help with the PCV Valve hose. Anyone please provide me some tips to take that stubborn hose off.

Thanks.


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## Sid S (Jan 4, 2021)

Post deleted


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## Sid S (Jan 4, 2021)

#Kraut said:


> *P0106 Code*
> 
> Hey! I had the awful P0106 code for over a year on my 2011 sportwagen 2.5 auto. I had a new MAP sensor installed but the code came back.
> 
> ...


 How do I recalibrate cam timing for regular fuel using obdelven? can you mention some steps, please. Thank you


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