# Specialty Tool Program



## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

Not much of a program but I was thinking that since there are a few special tools needed for some of the common jobs we run into, maybe we can work with each other on making resale easy. 

Example, I have the tools needed to replace the cam chain tensioner on an fsi and I know others need to do this job too as high mileage approaches. I paid $100 to a fellow member to get them and it would be cool if we had sort of a list of people who want the tool to use and will pay the $100 so that you are sort of renting it and passing it along. That way you can feel good that you will get your money back from a tool that you will probably never use again. 

I am going to be purchasing the tool that you need to remove the brake booster soon, so that will be another one on the list. 

The idea would be that we all agree to pay the same amount so that it is easy to recoup the cost and hang a list of users looking for it in order would show that you will get that money back. 

Does this make sense to anyone else?


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## Worthlessbackup (Apr 10, 2013)

Sounds reasonable! I'm interested in such a program. 

Sent from my LT30at using Tapatalk 4 Beta


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## A3Performance (Jul 22, 2006)

I'm down


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

Ok then. I guess we should get a list of tools that we collectively have that are sort of a one time deal and then people can just start requesting them? 

Right now I have the cam locking tool that is used for the cam chain/tensioner replacement and the special bit needed as well. 

$100+shipping. I'll include instructions on the job that can be passed along too.


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## FinderRO (Sep 17, 2012)

Interested as well


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## Worthlessbackup (Apr 10, 2013)

Curiosity piques, Tutti57...where are your directions from? Are they just a print from the Bentley manual or are you privey to something I'm not? 

I'm wanting to so this job in the next year for piece of mind even though I have no indications anything is wrong yet. How rough is this job? 

I've done a lot of work to keep this car running well and the last thing I need is this motor to 86 itself from a crappy cam chain. I'm wary though that maybe I'm being overly paranoid.


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## Pure.Dope (Mar 26, 2009)

Yeah man good idea. I'm at 75k and wondering about the cam chain tensioner. Are you replacing the chain also? 

Lemme know when you're done, I might do it.


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

I can do a write up on it since I successfully replaced my tensioner and chain. It's not a difficult job at all. 

Tools are just sitting on the work bench right now.


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## ordpetegti (May 20, 2004)

pm sent.


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

The program is already in motion! I'm dropping the tools off for a cam chain job to the poster above. Whoever needs them next can contact him.


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## Worthlessbackup (Apr 10, 2013)

Awesome! 

Sent from my LT30at using Tapatalk 4


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## ordpetegti (May 20, 2004)

I have the tools now and will be doing this job in the next two weeks. If anyone is interested, let me know and I will forward them on. 

Pete


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## big_c02 (Mar 7, 2013)

Great idea.


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## big_c02 (Mar 7, 2013)

I'll add my name to the list for the cam chain swap tools next- let me know when you have them available. Also, if you could do a DIY or document the procedure that would be fantastic!!


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

I'll have the tool to do the brake booster this eek too. It removes the pedal from the booster. $35+shippong


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## Worthlessbackup (Apr 10, 2013)

Put me down as number 2 for the cam chain tool. 

Cam Chain Tool:
1. big_c02
2. Worthlessbackup


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## pootey (Nov 12, 2006)

Awesome idea.i think the rental would be a good idea too.


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

See if this works. I've never shared a document before so I'm not sure if I set it up right. 

I figured we could make a list of what tools we have, collectively, then put your name on the list. Maybe we highlight the person who currently has it or something? 

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ApIijFwp_Y4EdHJueWU5UkZ6RWRXUFhTcFpOYkNlYlE&usp=sharing 

Let me know if you have any ideas to add to this or if the link is not working properly.


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## big_c02 (Mar 7, 2013)

I can't edit the google docs file- but I have a set of 12 point bits that are used for steering wheel removals etc. Also, a link or photos to the write up for cam chain and tensioner would be fantastic...im trying to gauge how much time it will take and how difficult. What would you say the difficulty of the job is compared to....maybe compared to valve cover gasket or timing belt job? 3-4 hrs total?


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

Ok, I changed a setting so it should work now. 

The hardest part of the job is removing the HPFP. You will have to remove the valve cover, the cover to the chain, and a few other bolts. It's not difficult at all. 

I could probably do it in an hour now that I've done it once. Budget for a couple of hours and you should be fine as long as you don't break anything or run into other snags. I sent you a PM big_c02.


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## ordpetegti (May 20, 2004)

My parts are showing up this week by Friday, so I am hoping the weekend will allow me to get this done. Big Co2 is next on the list. It is quite possible that I could get these shipped out on Monday the 19th at the earliest. If not, then the following Monday will be it. I will be taking pics and trying to make a crappy DIY. 

Pete


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## Worthlessbackup (Apr 10, 2013)

ordpetegti said:


> My parts are showing up this week by Friday, so I am hoping the weekend will allow me to get this done. Big Co2 is next on the list. It is quite possible that I could get these shipped out on Monday the 19th at the earliest. If not, then the following Monday will be it. I will be taking pics and trying to make a crappy DIY.
> 
> Pete


 Awesome. I was planning on doing a DIY for this also, so if you do it I'll help build on yours.


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

How do you guys feel about using email addresses in the spread sheet so that we can open it up to a few more forums?


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## big_c02 (Mar 7, 2013)

Good idea- will be nice to have a longer in line list


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## Worthlessbackup (Apr 10, 2013)

I'm okay with it. I'll add my email.


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## vwisthebest (Sep 17, 2003)

I'd say put me on the list, but IDK if I have time ...chain is starting to rattle REALLY bad on start up for the first 5-10 seconds until oil pressure rises. Planning to record a video soon and put on YouTube.

Where is the cheapest place to ge the specialty tool? And the parts?

I'd be happy to get a second set in the mix. Keep one list and have two sets of cam chain tools making its way down the list.

Thanks, Zach


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## big_c02 (Mar 7, 2013)

I actually had a similar issue and ordered a second set- sorry to the guy who has the first set...couldn't wait the two weeks with my paranoia thinking the chain could break at any time. 

Anyway, my parts just arrived today (late argh). Doing the install tonight then sending the parts out to worthless backup via priority mail tomorrow.


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## ordpetegti (May 20, 2004)

I was not able to get mine done this weekend due to parts showing up late. I am completing mine this Saturday (8-24) and will be able to ship out Monday first thing in the morning. I get a small discount on FEDEX next day shipping, so it is usually the same price as the ground shipping, and more reliable than the postal service. 

Since Big Co2 got his own set and worthless backup is next on his set, whomever wants them next, PM me.

Pete


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## ordpetegti (May 20, 2004)

vwisthebest said:


> I'd say put me on the list, but IDK if I have time ...chain is starting to rattle REALLY bad on start up for the first 5-10 seconds until oil pressure rises. Planning to record a video soon and put on YouTube.
> 
> Where is the cheapest place to ge the specialty tool? And the parts?
> 
> ...


http://www.europaparts.com/timing-chain-tensioner-06f109217a.html

I am not sure about the tools. I imagine if you wanted a set fast, you could google them and find them through Baum Tool.


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## big_c02 (Mar 7, 2013)

Side note on the europa parts pieces-

I ordered the OEM genuine VW tensioner from the link above...they used to show that it was OEM but I received an aftermarket piece. Apparently they are sold out of the OEM. I am skeptical to install the aftermarket tensioner, but this statement makes me feel a bit better about it:

This tensioner is manufactured at the same factory as the Genuine OEM tensioners.


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## Worthlessbackup (Apr 10, 2013)

How does the quality of the part look?


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## big_c02 (Mar 7, 2013)

Looks great. I emailed the customer service my concerns and asked if its the same but without the 4 rings

"Yes... the only difference is the markings. I used one on my wifes car and haven't had any issues in about 18 months"


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## big_c02 (Mar 7, 2013)

If anyone needs a brand new OEM chain and the aforementioned OEM/Unmarked tensioner for this job- let me know.


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## donjuan1jr (Oct 8, 2008)

anyone interested in buying the tools for like 130ish?


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## ordpetegti (May 20, 2004)

Finished mine. Took me about four hours cause I kept dropping fasteners. anyone who wants the tools next, PM me.


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

Nice job Pete!


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## Worthlessbackup (Apr 10, 2013)

Received the tools earlier this week. I'm not sure when I'll have an opportunity to do the job but I'll try to get it done soon.


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## vwisthebest (Sep 17, 2003)

ordpetegti said:


> Finished mine. Took me about four hours cause I kept dropping fasteners. anyone who wants the tools next, PM me.


Mind sharing any insights or tips/tricks? Thanks!


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## ordpetegti (May 20, 2004)

vwisthebest said:


> Mind sharing any insights or tips/tricks? Thanks!


Sure. 

Have a magnetic pick up tool handy. I used it many times. Also a mechanic's mirror helps. There are a few bolts that you cannot see directly and it is easier to see what type it is, whether a torx or triple square. 

I bought a small organizer tray from harbor freight so I can keep the bolts in order as they are removed, making reassembly much easier. 


Make sure you have a good torx socket set and triple square socket set. I ordered the triple square off amazon. 

I was not able to remove the rear coolant line that runs side to side on the back of the cylinder head. The passenger side of that 1/4 inch metal line connects to the overflow coolant tank. I GENTLY bent the ends slightly to gain clearance and allow for the valve cover and Cam chain cover to come off. 

Tutti57 advised getting a long Torx bit (not sure of the exact size) from an autoparts store to remove the bottom recessed torx bolt on the absolute bottom of the cam chain cover. I have a torx socket set that uses 1/4 inch and 3/8 inch ratchets. I first tried using a straight 1/4 inch extension that was 6 inches long. It did not work. However, I did have success while using a wobbly 1/4 inch socket extension on the bolt. It went on easier than it came off. If you don't have any wobblys, then you will need to get a long torx.

The bolts is the valve cover have a collar with a rubber grommet that semi holds the torx bolt in the hole. Some will fall out if you turn it over. Don't do what I did and turn it over directly over the engine compartment. I had to go fishing a few times. The magnet was handy for this. 

The actual chain and tensioner were really easy to remove and replace. With the cam locking tool and the polydrive socket, it was downright simple. I thought the hardest part was removing all the ancillaries (HPFP, valve cover, coolant hoses, cam chain cover and wiring). Getting everything back together can be daunting. I took digitial pics every few steps to help with reassembly. 

Also, I had to top off the coolant and replace a one time use pipe clamp that came off the back of the valve cover. I had coolant left over from the timing belt job. The pipe clamps were easy to source from a hardware store. You may want to have these items handy to make the process easier. 

My chain and tensioner/guides looked brand new and were only discolored. There was almost zero wear. I used mobil 1 exclusively every 5K miles. My cam follower also looked excellent when I changed them at 40K and 90 K miles. Car has 106K now. I am really impressed with this oil. 



This is not a hard job, just make sure you have the proper tools. 

******I may have forgotten some steps. Please consult the Bentley manual if you are unsure. I am not responsible for any damage to your car. This is my first DIY so it may not be concise or well written. Feel free to add or subtract from it. ******************

Here is what I can remember without the manual. 

Disconnect battery first.

2. Remove engine cover

3. Remove coil packs and harness screws. 

4. Remove valve cover, disconnect two hoses off left rear of valve cover, and hoses off the front. Don't forget the two torx bolts that run horizontally, securing the upper timing belt cover over the camshaft gear on the passenger side of the engine. 

5. Remove engine hoist point on front right portion of cylinder head. This bolt is a triple square. 


6. Remove and Disconnect hpfp metal lines and electrical connectors.

7. Remove battery, battery box. 






















Below is a pic of the cam chain cover. 

8. disconnect the one inch thick black plastic wrapped wiring harness running under it and move it slightly out of the way. There is a metal unpainted plate with a grounding wire that connects to it and is part of the fasteners holding this. There is one torx screw holding. Move it out of the way also. You can see the small metal coolant pipe above it and to the right. There was a torx screw that I removed and bent the pipe up about one inch to aid in removing the valve cover and cam chain cover. 










9. There are seven bolts on the cam chain cover, iirc. They are black torx head bolts, and you can only see three in the picture. (The cover includes the mount holes for the hpfp.) The bottom middle one is the far recessed one that needs the long torx bit or the wobbly 1/4 inch extension. There is another bolt holding a coolant manifold on the middle bottom that is easy to mistake as it is the first one visible when you look. 

10. I also disconnected two rubber coolant lines that were small. They are in the bottom left of the photo and the top right above the brake fluid reservoir. I left them connected on the other ends and just rotated them on the fittings. A small amount of coolant will be lost, maybe a cup or two. 










Here is the cam chain cover removed and the old tensioner and chain still installed. The cam locking tool goes on very easy. I turned the crankshaft and aligned the cams and the tool fit perfectly. No tools needed to secure it. The pin is an extra one that is included with the tools in the tool exchange program. 










Here is the old and new tensioners. not a lot of wear at all. just discoloration. There is a small ovaloid screen on the back of the tensioner, about 1/4 inch by 1/8 inch covering an oil feed hole. Make sure the old ones comes out. Mine was stuck to the head and had to be lightly pried off. It made the new tensioner not fit flush and flat. That's how I noticed the old one was in the way. 

11. To get the old chain and tensioner off, use the polydrive socket and a 1/2 inch breaker bar and loosen the bolt inside the tensioner on the rear (exhaust) cam. It feels like it is about 125 ft. lbs or torque. I did not use the flat spanner tool to hold the intake cam. It was not needed. 

12. Then remove the three bolts on the tensioner and the whole thing comes off as one piece. Replace the tensioner the same way. Line up the new chain, align the marks on the camshaft adjuster and tighten the bolt in the camshaft adjuster. Make sure everything lines up and remove the pin from the adjuster. After I removed the locking tool, I turned the engine over by hand to make sure nothing clashed. All was fine. 

Replace everything in reverse order. Replace the clamp you had to cut off the back left of the valve cover. Top off coolant, check the oil and double check all hoses, electrical wires and connectors are hooked up and routed correctly. It really pays to take pics as you go and go slow. 


The sky opened up right as I was finishing, making me drink my beer in the garage. Thank you Florida. :beer:










Hope this helps out guys. Now get out there and do this relatively easy job. 


Pete


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

Nice write up Pete.


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

Nice write up Pete.


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## Worthlessbackup (Apr 10, 2013)

I finished this job this weekend. The tools are available for anyone who wants to rent them next!

I'll post more about the procedure later. Pete's writeup was spot on. Easy job.


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## Worthlessbackup (Apr 10, 2013)

The only thing I want to add to the writeup that Pete did is about the cam adjuster bolt. This bolt is quite difficult to break loose. I first tried the impact wrench but that wouldn't break the bolt loose. I had to hammer the bit into the bolt to make sure it was seated all the way. Then I used a pipe in my breaker bar and got the bolt off. The critical thing to do is to hammer that bit into the bolt to make sure it seats fully. The bolt was in really rough condition afterwards. The teeth inside the bolt had almost sheered completely off. If you do this job replace the bolt and the housing gasket. 

Other than that the procedure is as the Bentley manual states. Not a difficult job. It took me about 5 hours... But I also changed my oil and took my time.


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

That's a good tip to get a new bolt. That thing is in much tighter than I thought it would be. You really have to take a crack at it to get it loose. It made me question if I was doing it right.


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## donjuan1jr (Oct 8, 2008)

That bolt must be replaced every time.


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

donjuan1jr said:


> That bolt must be replaced every time.


Sweet. The Bentley doesn't mention that, so I put the original back in there. . 

Is it a stretch bolt?


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## Worthlessbackup (Apr 10, 2013)

The Bentley manual actually did say to. It is in the breakdown overview of the valve train assembly. That's where most information on bolts requiring replacement are held.


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

Ah ****.


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## glifahrenheitcameron (Sep 14, 2011)

interested opcorn:


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## ordpetegti (May 20, 2004)

Worthlessbackup said:


> The only thing I want to add to the writeup that Pete did is about the cam adjuster bolt. This bolt is quite difficult to break loose. I first tried the impact wrench but that wouldn't break the bolt loose. I had to hammer the bit into the bolt to make sure it was seated all the way. Then I used a pipe in my breaker bar and got the bolt off. The critical thing to do is to hammer that bit into the bolt to make sure it seats fully. The bolt was in really rough condition afterwards. The teeth inside the bolt had almost sheered completely off. If you do this job replace the bolt and the housing gasket.
> 
> Other than that the procedure is as the Bentley manual states. Not a difficult job. It took me about 5 hours... But I also changed my oil and took my time.


Sounds like you had a lot more trouble than I did. My bolt came out clean even though it was really tight in there. It had some blue loc-tite on it, so I put a drop back on it when reassembling. I never had to hammer the socket into the torx head on the bolt. It seated really easily. Guess I got lucky. It probably wouldn't hurt to have another one of these bolts on hand just in case the original gets boogered up during the removal.


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

I just added a power brake bleeder. You will need this if you replace a leaking booster, caliper, or anytime you open a brake line up to the air. This tool allows you to do the job by yourself without needing a partner to pump the brakes.

I still haven't replaced my leaking booster. Maybe next weekend now that I have all of the correct parts. I know, I keep saying that...


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## Worthlessbackup (Apr 10, 2013)

Bump! Replace your cam chain sooner than later before our great engines force you to do it... Along with your valves!

Sent from my LT30at using Tapatalk 4


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

👍


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## Worthlessbackup (Apr 10, 2013)

Bump for people asking about this procedure recently. Tools available for 100 bucks shipped!


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## big_c02 (Mar 7, 2013)

Does anyone have subframe locating pins T10096, recommended when removing the lower control arms to fix that godawful squeaking in winter?


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## ordpetegti (May 20, 2004)

I still have the original tool set from Tutti57, the starter of this Speciality Tool program. 

Do this fix before your engine costs you more money. 

Includes the Cam locking tool, Polydrive socket for the tensioner bolt, and an additional lock pin to remove your old tensioner. Instructions included also. 

$100 shipped. I am located in Florida. 

Pete


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## theGLIguy (Dec 2, 2011)

ordpetegti said:


> I still have the original tool set from Tutti57, the starter of this Speciality Tool program.
> 
> Do this fix before your engine costs you more money.
> 
> ...


does it come with the socket for the exhaust cam bolt?


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## Worthlessbackup (Apr 10, 2013)

I also have a set. And yes, socket included


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## theGLIguy (Dec 2, 2011)

Worthlessbackup said:


> I also have a set. And yes, socket included


how much and can you send me a pic please?


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## ordpetegti (May 20, 2004)

theGLIguy said:


> does it come with the socket for the exhaust cam bolt?


Yes. The kit does come with the Polydrive socket.

Pete


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

It has everything you need to do the fix. 

Take a look at the spreadsheet for other available tools. 

Let's try to keep these circulating!


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## theGLIguy (Dec 2, 2011)

Tutti57 said:


> It has everything you need to do the fix.
> 
> Take a look at the spreadsheet for other available tools.
> 
> Let's try to keep these circulating!


Well, I talked to him and passed, I thought it was the actual full tool set in the case like this picture, I am going to buy the full set on my own and then sell it to who ever wants it. I don't want just a few parts from a kit.


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

You only need two of those tools for the job them get your money back.


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## Worthlessbackup (Apr 10, 2013)

I tried explaining that over PM but I think he feels more comfortable having that superfluous wrench . If he wants to spend more money than he has to so be it! My cam chain is fixed and I saved money. My tent is up!


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## ordpetegti (May 20, 2004)

theGLIguy said:


> Well, I talked to him and passed, I thought it was the actual full tool set in the case like this picture, I am going to buy the full set on my own and then sell it to who ever wants it. I don't want just a few parts from a kit.


Just a heads up, you do not need all those to do the job. 

All you need is the polydrive socket and the camshaft locking tool. The little triangle locking pin comes with the new tensioner. The previous user of these kits usually forward this also.


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## theGLIguy (Dec 2, 2011)

ordpetegti said:


> Just a heads up, you do not need all those to do the job.
> 
> All you need is the polydrive socket and the camshaft locking tool. The little triangle locking pin comes with the new tensioner. The previous user of these kits usually forward this also.


You guys blast me for wanting a full kit when you guys are trying to pass on 2 tools when I can get the full kit new for $10 more. Is that stupid of me? wouldn't that make it faster for me to sell? yes, I would take a $10 hit but it would be worth the piece of mind. so do your want 2 tools or a full kit for $100, lets be honest here!


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## Worthlessbackup (Apr 10, 2013)

Okay. Good luck with job guy.


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

I guess you missed the point of this thread but good luck with the job anyway.


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## ordpetegti (May 20, 2004)

my kit is now in the hands of *Bill6211789*. Please pm him if you want to continue the Tool Specialty program. :thumbup: 

Pete


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## ordpetegti (May 20, 2004)

theGLIguy said:


> You guys blast me for wanting a full kit when you guys are trying to pass on 2 tools when I can get the full kit new for $10 more. Is that stupid of me? wouldn't that make it faster for me to sell? yes, I would take a $10 hit but it would be worth the piece of mind. so do your want 2 tools or a full kit for $100, lets be honest here!


Have you ever rented something and then gotten all your money back at the end, minus about $6 for shipping? It's kind of like that.


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## vwisthebest (Sep 17, 2003)

So I know there's at least 2 of the loaner sets going around. One of them available?

Also, does anyone have the part number for the cam adjuster bolt?


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## jdoconnell (May 11, 2010)

*Anyone have a T10133 (FSI Fuel Injection Puller) for rent?*

I need a Fuel Injection puller because two came out relatively easily and two are determined to stay put.

The factory kit is $250. I see that KTC auto tools sells a clone for $110 + 25 shipping = $135.

Does any one have one for rent, particularly in the Boston area? If so, you can call me, Jim, at (781) 799-6500.


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## ordpetegti (May 20, 2004)

vwisthebest said:


> So I know there's at least 2 of the loaner sets going around. One of them available?
> 
> Also, does anyone have the part number for the cam adjuster bolt?


PM Bill6211789. He has one of the kits. 

Don't know the bolt part number. I'm guessing its a dealer item. I looked on 1stvwparts.com and didn't see it.


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## Worthlessbackup (Apr 10, 2013)

He received my kit yesterday :thumbup:


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## vwisthebest (Sep 17, 2003)

Worthlessbackup said:


> He received my kit yesterday :thumbup:


Yes, kit received yesterday. Thanks again!



jdoconnell said:


> I need a Fuel Injection puller because two came out relatively easily and two are determined to stay put.
> 
> The factory kit is $250. I see that KTC auto tools sells a clone for $110 + 25 shipping = $135.
> 
> Does any one have one for rent, particularly in the Boston area? If so, you can call me, Jim, at (781) 799-6500.


I've done valve cleaning on cars about 10 times. Never have I needed any special tool for removing or installing injectors. Do not tug on the offshoot for the plug; use the main body of the injector to pull it out.

One thing I do recommend is having 4 of the injector seal kits handy. Good idea just in case one of the blue seals rips, tears, or is misplaced. Kits are like $12.50 each.


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## mattA3 (Feb 24, 2010)

I think I am in need of replacing my cam chain and tensioner.  Started getting a new noise in the area.

Who can I get the specialty tools from? Still need to order parts and schedule some down time to get this done so starting with obtaining the tools first.


Is there a good procedure to check the tensioner to confirm it needs replacing without tearing the motor apart?


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## FinderRO (Sep 17, 2012)

Same thing. I think I'm starting to hear a sound from that area too.
Is there any chance I can join the program and have the tools cross the border?


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## FinderRO (Sep 17, 2012)

Any cam locking tool available?


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## vwisthebest (Sep 17, 2003)

EDIT:
I no longer have a set of tools. Sold them for the same price I bought them


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

mattA3 said:


> I think I am in need of replacing my cam chain and tensioner.  Started getting a new noise in the area.
> 
> Who can I get the specialty tools from? Still need to order parts and schedule some down time to get this done so starting with obtaining the tools first.
> 
> ...





FinderRO said:


> Same thing. I think I'm starting to hear a sound from that area too.
> Is there any chance I can join the program and have the tools cross the border?





FinderRO said:


> Any cam locking tool available?


User *544Volvo *just got my tool set for doing the cam chain and tensioner, which includes the cam locking tool. He may or may not have shipped it off to user *2006_A3_2.0T* at this point. Contact them and find out. It's making its rounds for a $90 deposit.


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## WolfsburgNate (Jun 6, 2006)

I have a friend at work who is in the process of rebuilding the head in his 2006 Passat, is anyone willing to help out and sell us the tools? :wave:


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## bmulder (Oct 11, 2012)

I need to replace the cam chain and tensioner on my Passat soon and will be reaching out to buy the tools off of whoever has some available... 

In the meantime I am sourcing parts for the job and noticed that in several threads it is mentioned that you can buy all the parts needed for $100 or so, where have you guys purchased your parts? Best I can find is about $200 for a few pieces from AZ Autohaus and a few others from ECS. Any advice on where to shop? Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## bmulder (Oct 11, 2012)

Bump. Any vendor recommendations for the parts?


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## Brd.Prey (Oct 25, 2012)

*I have the Fuel Pump Socket*

I have the Fuel Pump Socket


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## DorianF1 (Sep 3, 2007)

BeeAlk said:


> User *544Volvo *just got my tool set for doing the cam chain and tensioner, which includes the cam locking tool. He may or may not have shipped it off to user *2006_A3_2.0T* at this point. Contact them and find out. It's making its rounds for a $90 deposit.


Any leads on who currently has this Cam tool?

Thanks in advance.


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

Bump - looking for the timing tool kit. Funny how this thing might circle right back to me now. I'd like to check the timing on my car this weekend if possible. It looks like worthless and bill each have one if I read through all of this correctly?

Thanks!


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## bmulder (Oct 11, 2012)

Thanks to this thread and the DIY posted by theGLIguy I just performed this service on my B6 Passat this weekend and found your DIY to be pretty simple!

I ran into a couple issues when doing the job, that I thought I'd share in case anyone else has a similar experience:

1. The cam locking tool I bought was a piece of crap. The tiny screws that held the locking posts into the holes in the base plate were garbage and bent as soon as I tried to loosen the cam adjuster bolt! I fixed it by replacing the screws with series 8.8 stainless screws from the hardware store and adding some metal epoxy to the base of both posts. Wish I had a welder, a few good tack welds would have fixed this too. I also used the cam wrench to hold the intake cam in place while breaking loose the adjuster bolt this kept pressure off of my repaired clamp and worked perfectly to remove the bolt!

2. The tensioner was completely obliterated:
















As you can see the top plastic guide snapped in half and most of it was jammed in between the tensioner and the adjuster which left the chain riding on top of the metal piston. No wonder the engine ticked and puttered so badly! 

3. I found that 2 of the 3 cam adjuster seals, on the shaft that is part of the cam chain cover which slides inside the adjuster, had pieces missing. I reassembled everything since I couldn't find a fix for the seals that day. The car runs great but I'm getting a P000A code that seems to point to the broken seal rings. I've found that VW replaced the cam chain cover with a revised part that replaces the brittle plastic rings with metal ones. I have also found that you can buy the metal replacement rings - part number 06f198107a - but am unsure they will work with my old cover. 








Seeing as the rings can be purchased for $50, and the new cover is $500, I think I'll try the metal ones before buying a new cover. 

If anyone is interested in the tool kit I'll sell mine for $75 since I had to repair the clamp. It held up well after remain and should be good to go for many more uses. My kit includes the cam clamp, adjuster bolt bit, tensioner pin, and cam wrench. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

bmulder said:


> 1. The cam locking tool I bought was a piece of crap.


I just completed this service on my 2005.5 A4 and I concur about the CTA brand 2878 cam locking tool, total piece of sh!t. 

Mine didn't even provide least amount of resistance, the pegs just peeled out of the backing plate like butter. The peg is also only set loosely about half way into the backing plate (about 1/4") so all the force is applied to the tiny screws which only had about 3 threads of engagement. I tried longer screws but no difference due to the shallow pegs and loose fitment in the backing plate. 

I sent the CTA 2878 back to FCPeuro for a refund along with a strong suggestion to discontinue carrying this crap tool. 

After this tool fail and a few days lost locating a real tool, I got an Assenmacher T10252 which worked flawless. This tool has the pegs pressed all the way and tightly into the backing plate. 

If you don't want to lose time due to crappy tools, DO NOT BUY A CTA 2878 cam locking tool, they are garbage. 

Here is a picture of the pegs folded in:










And here is the peg and tiny screw removed:










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## vwisthebest (Sep 17, 2003)

The Assenmacher or 'AST' was the one I bought used then sold later here on Vortex. I have no experience with other brands but I can say the thing was super solid and heavy duty. No problems with it at all. Just the weight of it in my hand I could tell it was a quality piece... I actually kind of wanted to keep it I was so impressed with it haha.

All it came with when I bought it used was the locking plate with screws, the 6-point bit for the adjuster bolt, and the little pin that locks the tensioner. That was all I needed.


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## Thy_Harrowing (Dec 7, 2014)

Hi folks,

As of time of writing I currently have all tools required for the cam chain job for sale. All in perfect condition after 2 uses (me and another forum member before me). I ran into none of the multitude of issues I've read some forum members have had with certain brands of tools. They did their job perfectly and they are ready to make their rounds among the community. See my sale thread here for details and PM me.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...safely-change-timing-cam-chain-tensioner)-125


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

I have a cam adjuster that just needs a pin put in too. Any machine shop could fix this and save money over a new one for $400. 

Glad people are finding value from the thread. 

Sent from my LGLS770 using Tapatalk


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## bmulder (Oct 11, 2012)

Update on my broken cam adjuster shaft seal rings: 
I just got my order in from vwpartsoutlet.com and the rings are plastic, not metal. This is good news to me because I don't have to worry about compatibility with them replacing my broken plastic ones. I'll follow up again once I have the new rings installed. 

Also I was able to return the CTA cam clamp to Amazon for a full refund! Let me know if anyone needs the cam wrench, 6 point bit, and tensioner pin for cheap!


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## Nitroracer17 (Apr 8, 2014)

This is an old thread, but I am looking for a cam locking tool to rent for the timing chain job on a 2.0 FSI engine. Does anyone still have a good tool they are willing to lend out?


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## stromam (Jan 7, 2019)

*Specialty Tools for BPY Cam Chain job?*

Bump from the last poster (PMd him in case he found them).

Anyone got a set of tools floating around for this job?

PM me if you do.

Thanks.


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## mattA3 (Feb 24, 2010)

*Looking for Cam tensioner tools*

WTB specialty tools for Cam Chain Tensioner replacement.


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## Wabet (Apr 23, 2019)

*tool swap*

How did that work for you? Just wondering, it's a great idea, but this is an old post. Is anyone still swapping tools?
I could use the cam tool for setting up the timing chain


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## mattA3 (Feb 24, 2010)

Wabet said:


> How did that work for you? Just wondering, it's a great idea, but this is an old post. Is anyone still swapping tools?
> I could use the cam tool for setting up the timing chain


Yes Stromam has them currently. I am still deciding if I am going to do the service so if you are good to go get them from him.


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## xdoktor (Feb 4, 2005)

*T10252 reantal*

i am in n.e . tennessee, i need to rent the T10252 tool, name brad not a cheap copy. LMK what is avaliable, Thanks! email me at [email protected] or text 423-767-5688, Keith


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## GTI+MTB (Apr 13, 2007)

Need to do the cam chain tensioner replacement on a FSI with the BPY code. Looking to rent or buy the T10252 alignment tool and polydrive bit. I'm in the upstate of S.C.
Please contact me here or text 864.483.2033 if you have these available. Thanks.


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## stromam (Jan 7, 2019)

Sorry mattA3, xdoktor and GTI+MTB for going dark, this just totally flew out of my mind after I completed the job.

I just ran into these tools when I dug through my specialty toolbox for a recent suspension job on my MK6 GTI.

I've got the Assenmacher alignment tool T10252 and polydrive bit available for sale to whoever runs into this need next. PM or better text me 630.335.4070 if you want them.


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