# 2.5T oil leak



## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

Just curious if there have been others who did a bottom end build on a motor. And during break in. The motor start dripping oil from the backside. It is also burning oil. The warmer the engine is the worse it is. Any hints or tips would be greatly appreciated.




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## UroTuning (Jul 18, 2012)

What weight oil are you using? Have you checked you turbo oil return line?


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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

The engine shop said to run 5w30 conventional. And the return is fine. But will give it a once over to see. And thanks for the reply.


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## killerbunny (Jul 10, 2008)

Hate-Trix said:


> Just curious if there have been others who did a bottom end build on a motor. And during break in. The motor start dripping oil from the backside. It is also burning oil. The warmer the engine is the worse it is. Any hints or tips would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


-On top of the oil drain, check that it isn't leaking from upper and lower oil pan mating areas.
-When does it burn oil? When driving around or sitting at idle?


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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

It burns at idle mostly. Hard to say when driving. And the engine bay smokes at idle and driving. It is a used precision 5431 mfs that i fear wasn't broken in properly.


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## killerbunny (Jul 10, 2008)

Hate-Trix said:


> It burns at idle mostly. Hard to say when driving. And the engine bay smokes at idle and driving. It is a used precision 5431 mfs that i fear wasn't broken in properly.


Where does your oil drain to? A lot of people running turbo chargers on this motor have issues with the oil drain being below the oil level in the pan, and this causes oil burning/smoking. Smoke in the engine bay may be the oil leak hitting hot exhaust components.


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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

I have the oil drain in the upper pan/ windage tray. Was hoping to avoid that possibility. As the previous owner had it into the pan.


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## killerbunny (Jul 10, 2008)

you should be fine for draining then, only other turbo related smoking would be that the turbo needs to be rebuilt. Engine wise a lot of things can cause burning, especially on a newly built bottom end. What are the engine specs?


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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

killerbunny said:


> you should be fine for draining then, only other turbo related smoking would be that the turbo needs to be rebuilt. Engine wise a lot of things can cause burning, especially on a newly built bottom end. What are the engine specs?


As for engine specs. Its been bored out to fit je 8.5:1 cr pistons. With integrated engineering conecting rods mahle conecting rod bearings. Its the c2 stage 2 full turbo kit from 2012. And i am using united motorsport stage 2 pro maf tune. And 550cc injectors.


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

Hate-Trix said:


> It burns at idle mostly. Hard to say when driving. And the engine bay smokes at idle and driving. It is a used precision 5431 mfs that i fear wasn't broken in properly.


When i spoke to precision, turbos have no need to be broken in as an engine does.

Any oil burning, leaking would be due to the rebuild itself.

i'd suggest to track the location of the issue, and dissasemble if needed to change/fix whatever may be wrong.

Worst case: are the rings sealing right? no compression issues? was the engine properly bored?


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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

thygreyt said:


> When i spoke to precision, turbos have no need to be broken in as an engine does.
> 
> Any oil burning, leaking would be due to the rebuild itself.
> 
> ...


The no break in is a scary process. But i want to say everything is good internally as it is steady at 20 vacuums at idle. And pulls on the low end.


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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

I know pulls on the low end isn't a true measure as my buddies engine is running low on cylinder one but still hauls a $$


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## GTACanuck (Feb 20, 2009)

Well, I didnt know of any more Ontario 2.5T guys! 


I have the exact same friggen issue with mine. Always have smoking at idle, sometimes quite overwhelming. I do also notice smoking on long decel like going down a hill riding a gear.

I am below my oil level on my drain but that is getting corrected this weekend hopefully. Have a new pan coming in tomorrow and tapping into the upper pan Saturday.


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

In my experience...

having the oil drain to the bottom of the oil pan is the common, yet lazy solution many of us (including me) have currently. The issue is that on extended iddle the oil can and does back up... if left for enough time it will rise and damage the turbo seals causing the smoking at iddle.

If OP wants to diagnose the oil smoke issue, disconnect thr compressed air pipes, or one of the so that the car is breathing normally/ naturally, not forced. therefore, it will eliminate the turbo from the equation


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## killerbunny (Jul 10, 2008)

thygreyt said:


> In my experience...
> 
> having the oil drain to the bottom of the oil pan is the common, yet lazy solution many of us (including me) have currently. The issue is that on extended iddle the oil can and does back up... if left for enough time it will rise and damage the turbo seals causing the smoking at iddle.
> 
> If OP wants to diagnose the oil smoke issue, disconnect thr compressed air pipes, or one of the so that the car is breathing normally/ naturally, not forced. therefore, it will eliminate the turbo from the equation


You would have to remove the turbo from the exhaust system to eliminate from the equation. Oil would be on the turbine side of the turbo if it is being seen as smoke from the exhaust.

Also on your list of things to check-PCV system, can explain a few of your issues


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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

Yeah. I will be spending time on it tomorrow. And GTACanuck my buddy spoke of you and always wanted to meet up. And i did look underneath the car and it looks like i might have to pull it to source the problem. Turbo is in the way.


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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

And thanks again for the tibbits. Every single peice helps


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## GTACanuck (Feb 20, 2009)

Hate, you going to VagKraft this weekend? I will be at the source booth with my girls MK1. They bunny might be there but not in any show form.

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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

GTACanuck said:


> Hate, you going to VagKraft this weekend? I will be at the source booth with my girls MK1. They bunny might be there but not in any show form.
> 
> Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk


Mine as well. And I'll come out. I've missed enough euro car shows.


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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

After conversing with a shop. There is a possibility that it is the seal behind where the transmission bolts onto.


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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

After dropping the car off at a dealer. The rear main seal was done. And it had saturated my clutch with oil.


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## GTACanuck (Feb 20, 2009)

Hate-Trix said:


> After dropping the car off at a dealer. The rear main seal was done. And it had saturated my clutch with oil.


I figured something was going on with your clutch after talking to you this past weekend. Just didnt sit well with me "breaking in".

Who did your clutch? Was it not noticed when they changed it?


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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

GTACanuck said:


> I figured something was going on with your clutch after talking to you this past weekend. Just didnt sit well with me "breaking in".
> 
> Who did your clutch? Was it not noticed when they changed it?


Its still leaking under boost. The block is being pressurized and blowing oil out the seal.


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## killerbunny (Jul 10, 2008)

Hate-Trix said:


> Its still leaking under boost. The block is being pressurized and blowing oil out the seal.


Did the shop check the PCV system. How is yours setup?


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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

killerbunny said:


> Did the shop check the PCV system. How is yours setup?


Like stock. The crank case vent goes to the turbo inlet. And the top vent goes to the intake. Then there is no secondary air intake.


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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

But i wonder if the crankcase vent is blocked by something. Will put some air through it in the morning and see what happens.


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## killerbunny (Jul 10, 2008)

Hate-Trix said:


> Like stock. The crank case vent goes to the turbo inlet. And the top vent goes to the intake. Then there is no secondary air intake.


When you say the top vent goes to the intake, that is the turbo inlet/intake correct? Not the intake manifold?

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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

killerbunny said:


> When you say the top vent goes to the intake, that is the turbo inlet/intake correct? Not the intake manifold?
> 
> Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk


Correct to the turbo inlet. when the diverter goes off. Would it send air into the block? I don't exactly want to run with it off.


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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

And would it be bad if i were to put ait through the crankcase vent? To see if there is a blockage?


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

Hate-Trix said:


> And would it be bad if i were to put ait through the crankcase vent? To see if there is a blockage?


put suction to it.


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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

thygreyt said:


> put suction to it.


Will a vacuum cleaner work? Or less powerful.


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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

So after checking the bottom crankcase vent it is not the issue. Sucked up alot of oil vapour.


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## killerbunny (Jul 10, 2008)

Hate-Trix said:


> So after checking the bottom crankcase vent it is not the issue. Sucked up alot of oil vapour.


And it only leaks when you are making boost? Maybe try a boost leak test see if that helps any. If you pressurized from the inlet of the turbo, you will hear some gurgling from the oil pan, from the air going through the oil drain, this is normal.


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## TrillyPop (Jan 27, 2010)

How much oil are you leaking exactly?

I have 2 suggestions. One is - is there any oil on the pulleys on the passenger side of the engine? Could be the front main seal. The second is - could possibly be a cracked upper oil pain. They're aluminum and a bolt could have been over-torqued or even the pan cracked during tranny removal.

Next step I think would be to clean the hell out of the engine with degreaser. Then put it on a lift and let it run/give it some revs and see if you can see where it's leaking from.


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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

killerbunny said:


> And it only leaks when you are making boost? Maybe try a boost leak test see if that helps any. If you pressurized from the inlet of the turbo, you will hear some gurgling from the oil pan, from the air going through the oil drain, this is normal.


Will give that a shot. And leaks all the time while running. Just worse ubder boost.


TrillyPop said:


> How much oil are you leaking exactly?
> 
> I have 2 suggestions. One is - is there any oil on the pulleys on the passenger side of the engine? Could be the front main seal. The second is - could possibly be a cracked upper oil pain. They're aluminum and a bolt could have been over-torqued or even the pan cracked during tranny removal.
> 
> Next step I think would be to clean the hell out of the engine with degreaser. Then put it on a lift and let it run/give it some revs and see if you can see where it's leaking from.


And i was loosing about a litre a day until i had the rear main seal replaced. And it is still leaking. Just not as bad. As per amount im unsure. Haven't topped up yet.


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## killerbunny (Jul 10, 2008)

Hate-Trix said:


> Will give that a shot. And leaks all the time while running. Just worse ubder boost.
> 
> And i was loosing about a litre a day until i had the rear main seal replaced. And it is still leaking. Just not as bad. As per amount im unsure. Haven't topped up yet.


The vacuum pump is right above the transmission, and a common failure for leaking oil. It can often times look like the rear main seal is leaking. Is your clutch slipping?


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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

killerbunny said:


> The vacuum pump is right above the transmission, and a common failure for leaking oil. It can often times look like the rear main seal is leaking. Is your clutch slipping?


Oh yeah. Clutch was slipping and saturated in oil. But as it sits right now. It has half the oil of capacity and is not leaking. Edit leaking still lol


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## TrillyPop (Jan 27, 2010)

It's hard to believe that, if a good shop pulled the tranny back off to do the rear main, that they didnt notice a leaky vacuum pump. Did you get to see the valve chain covers while the tranny was off? Those are sooo fragile and easy to put holes into or crack (ask me how i know) when doing a tranny job.

Have you been able to tell more precisely where it's leaking from? Rule out driver vs passenger side of engine and that narrows it down a lot.


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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

TrillyPop said:


> It's hard to believe that, if a good shop pulled the tranny back off to do the rear main, that they didnt notice a leaky vacuum pump. Did you get to see the valve chain covers while the tranny was off? Those are sooo fragile and easy to put holes into or crack (ask me how i know) when doing a tranny job.
> 
> Have you been able to tell more precisely where it's leaking from? Rule out driver vs passenger side of engine and that narrows it down a lot.


It is definitely driver side main seal. They said it was leaking under boost but fine while vacuum was present in the crankcase. Other wise i think the motor is fine. C2 isn't being overly helpful. Was told the vacuum lines were hooked up wrong. But they are hooked up to the turbo inlet same as what "stock" would be right? 

Me and a buddy put the motor together while a shop put the crank, rods and pistons in. Everything looked good no issues. But i guess it could be from anything at this point. But everything looked good. Unless there were hair line fractures :s 

I definitely appreciate the help but this leak is trying my patience. And definitely trying not to come off as an a$$ hat. 


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## killerbunny (Jul 10, 2008)

Can you post pictures of your setup? Not sure what c2 is saying is hooked up incorrectly, everything you have described so far sounds correct.

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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)




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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

Best my phone can do at the moment. Clear hose is the crankcase. Trying a different one with less connection points. To see if it was just leaking.


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## GTACanuck (Feb 20, 2009)

When I looked at your setup last weekend. It all looked correct. You could even vta on the crank breather to clean up that clear hose if you wanted to. And knowing your oil drain from the turbo goes into the windeage tray I would be leaning heavily to your turbo leaking internally to both your hot and cold side. Either that or you have a bad valve seal problem. 

It's very hard to determine because you did so many steps at once that it is very hard to go through the process of elimination. 

If you ever want to come up to my place we can give everything a good once over and even perform a leakdown test

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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

GTACanuck said:


> When I looked at your setup last weekend. It all looked correct. You could even vta on the crank breather to clean up that clear hose if you wanted to. And knowing your oil drain from the turbo goes into the windeage tray I would be leaning heavily to your turbo leaking internally to both your hot and cold side. Either that or you have a bad valve seal problem.
> 
> It's very hard to determine because you did so many steps at once that it is very hard to go through the process of elimination.
> 
> ...


That might be a good idea. Im going to do a compression test to see if they are at least at the same psi. 
Edit: compression test is from 110 to 120psi. Sounds alright on that side. But who knows about if its leaking...

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## donjuan1jr (Oct 8, 2008)

Check the underside of the chain housing for a crack, your rear main couldve been leaking and they cracked that putting the trans back in. 

Seen that ohhh about a dozen times.


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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

donjuan1jr said:


> Check the underside of the chain housing for a crack, your rear main couldve been leaking and they cracked that putting the trans back in.
> 
> Seen that ohhh about a dozen times.


Yeah. Talked to the shop who put the short block together. And he said it is more than likely leaking from somewhere else.


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## killerbunny (Jul 10, 2008)

Out of curiosity, did you ever find the source of the oil leak?


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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

killerbunny said:


> Out of curiosity, did you ever find the source of the oil leak?


Havent looked into it yet. I have the week off with many questions about this bloody thing.


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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

When one does a leak down test. You take out the spark plugs. Then you add air to the chambers correct?


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## GTACanuck (Feb 20, 2009)

Hate-Trix said:


> When one does a leak down test. You take out the spark plugs. Then you add air to the chambers correct?


Correct


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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

GTACanuck said:


> Correct
> 
> 
> Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk


Then it seems i may have a vent valve then. Added air to cylinder one and it came out cylinder 3....
edit: what i call cylinder 1 is the furthest on the passenger side.


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## GTACanuck (Feb 20, 2009)

Usually it's best to have two people doing the test. 1 to crank the block over slowly and the other to know when to stop when the valves are all closed. U want to be 100% sure of a bent valve...

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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

GTACanuck said:


> Usually it's best to have two people doing the test. 1 to crank the block over slowly and the other to know when to stop when the valves are all closed. U want to be 100% sure of a bent valve...
> 
> Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk


Yeah thats what i figured. So would you say using a compression testor work to get it to tdc work?


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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

So i have determined that the motor will have to be rebuilt. I have a whilring noise under load above 2500rpm but only when accelerating. Once the motor is out i will be able to address the leaking issue with better accuracy. But i ask. Does anyone here have a stock downpipe? Mine blew apart and my aftermarket one has been welded for turbo. And once again I thank you all for your input. And I will keep you updated on this motor. 2.5l foruns are the best!


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## GTACanuck (Feb 20, 2009)

Hate-Trix said:


> So i have determined that the motor will have to be rebuilt. I have a whilring noise under load above 2500rpm but only when accelerating. Once the motor is out i will be able to address the leaking issue with better accuracy. But i ask. Does anyone here have a stock downpipe? Mine blew apart and my aftermarket one has been welded for turbo. And once again I thank you all for your input. And I will keep you updated on this motor. 2.5l foruns are the best!


I got a 3" vband downpour for your setup if that works. I threw out my stock one 

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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

GTACanuck said:


> I got a 3" vband downpour for your setup if that works. I threw out my stock one
> 
> Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk


Damn. I just need stock at this moment. And not really a fan of shelling out another grand after tax. 


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## mk6matt (Jan 26, 2013)

I have a stock one. Send me a pm


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## GTACanuck (Feb 20, 2009)

Hate-Trix said:


> Damn. I just need stock at this moment. And not really a fan of shelling out another grand after tax.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Try Mike at the Source.... Probably has 20 of them

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## Hate-Trix (Sep 30, 2011)

GTACanuck said:


> Try Mike at the Source.... Probably has 20 of them
> 
> Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk


I keep forgetting about them! Thanks for the tip


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