# V6 Suspension: Upgrade / Refresh



## walkdontrunn (Jul 23, 2015)

Hi all, I'm planning on refreshing the suspension on my V6 TT w/ 135k miles and possibly upgrading it. The most important thing for me is to not ruin the handling of the car as my main goal is to get the back end of the car to feel less 'floaty' around high speed mountain roads without killing all hope of a reasonably comfortable ride around the city. I'd be fine lowering it about an inch, as long as it doesn't result in a loss of handling from poor suspension geometry.

Option 1 would be going all out and upgrading the complete suspension system. For that I'm looking at:

-Bilstein PSS I think the B14 kit is the one I would need?
-USRT 6pc trailing arm bearings
-2 pairs of Gruven rear control arms w/ spherical bearings
-Gruven rear sway bar links
-OEM R32 19mm rear sway bar Will a VW MKIV R32 rear sway bar fit a TT?
-Powerflex Race 19mm rear anti roll bar bushings

-034 Motorsport Track Density Strut mounts and bearings
-new ball joints
-Gruven front sway bar links
-Powerflex Race front anti roll bar bushings 19 or 20mm for the OEM V6?
-MCPI Defcon 2 kit or Powerflex front wishbone rear spherical bushing and Powerflex front wishbone 45.5mm front bushing

-034 Motorsports track density motor mount set
-Tyrolsport solid front subframe bushings
-Tyrolsport solid steering rack bracket
-Powerflex Race rear diff rear mount
-Powerflex Race rear diff front mount
-USRT solid rear subframe bushings Half solid, half OEM rubber to mimic the roadster mounting or fully solid?

So obviously that's going to end up being a lot, and I feel like much of that could be eliminated by keeping the car at stock height.
Let me know if you have any suggestions for either a better performing product, or if some of that is just really unnecessary from your experience. The car won't be on the track, but being able to take more advantage of the cars power through the mountains on the way to the ski slopes and bike trails is the goal, as is minimal maintenance and part longevity.

Wheels are factory 17"s and 225/45/r17 tires.

I'm on the fence about upgrading the sway bars. It seems that some of the knowledgable people on the forum recommend not increasing the stiffness, but I have the V6 and it seems that a stiffer rear anti roll bar would prevent the back of the car from feeling like it's floating around high speed turns.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Hi, that's quite an extensive list you have here, and it can be trimmed into something much less overkill and expensive (such a list could probably almost buy another used TT). 

Let's trim the fat, many things listed aren't needed, they can be skipped and you wouldn't notice a difference for your use of tbe car:
1) solid steering rack bracket
2) rear diff mounts
3) trailing arm bearings
4) front/rear aftermarket end links

The 4 items just listed are totally not needed for your use in a street car. I have a full dedicated track toy and I don't have/need these items. I put these in the "would-be-nice-to-have" in your spec list, but realistically pointless/undetectable (unless the bushing they're replacing had failed). 

Now let's put down a better trimmed down list incorporating products that the forum knowledge base have found to be better. 

- Bilstein PSS coilovers 

- OEM US-spec 15mm rear swaybar with the additional holes drilled (there is one f/s in the classifieds). 

- Madmax adjustable rear control arms

- OEM front and rear swaybar end links

- Defcon front control arm insert/bushing 

- Powerflex front control arm rearward spherical bushing

- Powerflex front/rear swaybar bushings (make sure to order the correct ones, especially if upgrading to the R32 rear bar)

- VW Polo higher durometer upper strut mounts (or equivalent) 

- OEM upper strut bearings

- OEM ball joints

- OEM tie rod ends

- Blackforest street motor mount inserts


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## walkdontrunn (Jul 23, 2015)

Thanks for the reply Max. Your forum posts were some of the ones that had me reconsidering the stiffer rear sway bar. However, if I'm not going with a stiffer one, would I not be fine just leaving the stock rear bar in and only installing poly bushings? Are you suggesting sticking with oem sway bar end links or replacing with new oem to refresh the oem joints?


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## stevemannn (Apr 17, 2008)

i actually like the feel of the soild steering rack bracket, you get alot better feed back in the wheel,and steering tighted up alot.
also id stay away from the track density motor mounts. i had the transmission side break on me. got it replaced,and a few months later the engine side mount started pissing fluid out.
im also not the only person who had this issue.
as for their strut tops, im not sure. i went with power flex.


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## walkdontrunn (Jul 23, 2015)

I may just go with a poly steering rack bushing if it's a worthwhile middle ground between stock and solid given that it's $100 cheaper.

That's interesting to hear about the track density mounts. Are they from 034? I already picked up the mounts from 034 when I was at their BBQ last weekend. Jeremy mentioned the V6 being smoother and better balanced than the 4cyl so he recommended the track density mounts over their street version.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

I would not advise using the 034 mounts, the track record on that particular product is negative to say the least. Too many horror stories to take a gamble when there are other options that will do the job without the risk of premature failures. 

If you're sold on the steering rack bushing replacement, go for the cheaper poly units. The result IMO is just a feel thing, not really any performance improvement. Since there is less cushioning between the rack and the steering wheel, more connection is felt. Nothing has changed in the dynamics however.


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## stevemannn (Apr 17, 2008)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> I would not advise using the 034 mounts, the track record on that particular product is negative to say the least. Too many horror stories to take a gamble when there are other options that will do the job without the risk of premature failures.
> 
> If you're sold on the steering rack bushing replacement, go for the cheaper poly units. The result IMO is just a feel thing, not really any performance improvement. Since there is less cushioning between the rack and the steering wheel, more connection is felt. Nothing has changed in the dynamics however.


exactly what he said. you do feel a difference,but nothing has changed,and for the mounts, if you have them, then use them. they feel good,and deff keep the motor/trans from moving around,but how long they will actually last, i dont know. i personally have had 2 bad mounts from them,and im not the only one.
bad batch? im not sure ,but i do know when my new motor is complete, they will be in the trash lol.


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> ...Now let's put down a better trimmed down list incorporating products that the forum knowledge base have found to be better.
> 
> - Bilstein PSS coilovers
> 
> ...



Good catch - I'll be getting a set of those lateral links soon too 

I've never purchased the 034 mounts but my brother did, for his Audi Coupe quattro, and they were junk - hopefully you can return them or they've addressed the QC issues they've been having... nice to see someone tackling the suspension/handling right off the bat :beer:


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## walkdontrunn (Jul 23, 2015)

All_Euro said:


> I've never purchased the 034 mounts but my brother did, for his Audi Coupe quattro, and they were junk - hopefully you can return them or they've addressed the QC issues they've been having... nice to see someone tackling the suspension/handling right off the bat :beer:


Well... this is not at all reassuring. I was under the impression that 034 was one of the premier aftermarket companies for VW and Audi and the literature describing the push-pull advantages of the vulcanized rubber over a polyurethane mount made sense. I've generally tried to avoid poly when it comes to drivetrain mounts in the past, but they seem well liked with the Audi crowd.

I'm going to give these mounts a chance and hopefully they perform as intended and last as long as the factory mounts. Longevity is important to me since I live in SF and have no where to work on my car except for the trip that I'm making back to Alabama in a couple of months where I'll have access to my parents garage and all of my tools.

034 is only about an hour away from me so if they do fail as you all are suggesting, maybe they'll let me drop the car off to have the mounts replaced. I'm hoping there was just a bad batch and these last though.


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## walkdontrunn (Jul 23, 2015)

How much effect will wheel spacers have on handling?

Let's say if I do the Bilstein PSS and it's max height is 30mm below stock, can I get away with 15mm front and 20mm rear spacers without any rubbing on OEM 17" 6 spoke wheels and 225/45/r17 tires?


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

walkdontrunn said:


> ...034 is only about an hour away from me so if they do fail as you all are suggesting, maybe they'll let me drop the car off to have the mounts replaced. I'm hoping there was just a bad batch and these last though.


The guys over at 034 are definitely capable people and they do make some good products... their mounts have been a sore spot for many but maybe they've addressed the issues. Either way, you live nearby and they will likely take care of you if something happens - no harm in trying them out :beer:




walkdontrunn said:


> How much effect will wheel spacers have on handling?
> 
> Let's say if I do the Bilstein PSS and it's max height is 30mm below stock, can I get away with 15mm front and 20mm rear spacers without any rubbing on OEM 17" 6 spoke wheels and 225/45/r17 tires?


Can't help with wheel fitment on a TT but n my last car (02' Jetta) I did notice a slight cornering improvement by adding wheel spacers. Corners I could normally take at certain speeds, before traction control kicked in, were now good at higher speeds without traction control intervening - nice surprise as I wasn't expecting an improvement.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

walkdontrunn said:


> How much effect will wheel spacers have on handling?
> 
> Let's say if I do the Bilstein PSS and it's max height is 30mm below stock, can I get away with 15mm front and 20mm rear spacers without any rubbing on OEM 17" 6 spoke wheels and 225/45/r17 tires?


You'll be fine. I run 20mmF/25mmR on PSS's with 245/40's, and I've lowered more than 30mm.


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## walkdontrunn (Jul 23, 2015)

For the rear control arms I can either go with adjustable arms (either gruven, stern, or mad max) or simply replace the bushings in the factory arms with polyurethane elliptical bushings. I'm probably not pushing the car hard enough on the street to experience a difference between stock and aftermarket, but my concern is with the elliptical bushings rotating out of alignment. Has this been a problem for anyone?

What are my options for correcting the geometry in the front suspension after lowering it the 30mm?

As far as the rear trailing arms, do you suggest just leaving the oem rubber bushings in all 3 locations?


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Leave the trailing arm alone unless the bushings are worn, get MadMax's arms, the eccentric bushing yes can loosen over time, FTD has front roll correction coming soon I believe.....


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## MCPaudiTT (Nov 26, 2006)

walkdontrunn said:


> For the rear control arms I can either go with adjustable arms (either gruven, stern, or mad max) or simply replace the bushings in the factory arms with polyurethane elliptical bushings.


The OEM arms have a weakness where they mount to the wheel hub, and this joint has failed on many cars. Fortunately all cases I am aware of happened at low speed, but the failure is catastrophic - at high speed I shutter to think of what would happen. I would go with Max's stoutly designed arms for this reason alone. However, adjustable arms are also much easier to make small adjustments on, and they are more likely to stay in the proper position once set.


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## walkdontrunn (Jul 23, 2015)

MCPaudiTT said:


> The OEM arms have a weakness where they mount to the wheel hub, and this joint has failed on many cars. Fortunately all cases I am aware of happened at low speed, but the failure is catastrophic - at high speed I shutter to think of what would happen. I would go with Max's stoutly designed arms for this reason alone. However, adjustable arms are also much easier to make small adjustments on, and they are more likely to stay in the proper position once set.


I'm leaning towards the Madmax arms and defcon 2 kit instead of the version with polyurethane bushings in the front arms. For a street car, considering durability and performance, would you go with the open rubber bushings over poly as well?

Poly seems fine in the rear arms since they're just rotating, but the trailing arm end is still using Orem rubber bushings, right?

Max, I had a look at the rear 15mm sway bar and will probably pick it up. Are the open swaybars different between the V6 and 225? I want to make sure that the drilled 15mm bar is the right way to go with the front sway bar in the v6. I've been hearing so many different diameters on these bars that I honest,y don't know which size my car has or should get.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Personally, I preffer rubber or the hybrid spherical encased in poly in the rearward position of the front arms. Others will disagree, but I'm not a fan of how the plain poly bushings behaves at that particular location (they start getting chewed up even while initially fitting them. (See Eric's post below for what I mean by hybrid version)


For the rear swaybar size, I can't be 100% positive because I've never measured a US-spec v6 rear bar. Your best bet is to measure it, if it's 14mm, get the R32 15mm unit, if it's already 15mm just drill the adjustment holes. :beer:


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Max is talking about these specifically, PM Mr. McPaudiTT: http://www.powerflex.co.uk/road-series/product-details/Front+Wishbone+Rear+Bush+(Race+Use)/1768.html :thumbup:


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Can confirm on the TT that adjustable sway bar endlinks result in no better lap time.


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## walkdontrunn (Jul 23, 2015)

Now that my trip home is soon approaching, I'm ordering some parts.

I ordered the Defcon stage 2 kit, hopefully just in time as it now appears that they've been discontinued.
For shocks, I've been leaning more towards the Koni FSD and keeping my stock springs. Lowering seems like it introduces a lot of front end steering and suspension geometry concerns that don't have a readily available solution. I like the idea of the Koni's still providing a comfortable ride, yet stiffening some during cornering. It seems like a good daily driver shock whereas I've heard of some complaints with the Bilstein PSS kits being noisy.

I might still pick up at 19mm rear sway bar and MadMax's arms despite not lowering the car. Since I use the car for ski trips during the winter, I'm thinking lowering it isn't really the best approach for driving in the snow.

However, I've seen some photos of Max's FTD front balljoint/roll center kit and if that corrects all of the geometry from lowering 1-1.5", I might be interested in that and the Bilstein PSS kit again.

How are people liking their Koni shocks? Are they on the same level as Bilstein as far as quality goes?


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## TA (Sep 15, 2007)

I'm in the middle of a suspension refresh on my 2001 225Q with 85k miles. Maybe some of the things I've run across can help you out.

First off, I would get under the car and inspect everything before you start taking anything apart. Make sure you have everything that needs replacing if you can't deal with having the car down for a week while you wait for parts to come in that you weren't expecting to need. 

I went with the DEFCON 2 for the front control arms, I have the arms out of the car right now but haven't gotten the new bushings pressed in yet, so can't help much here.

I went with Bilstein HD shocks/struts on stock springs. The TT is my winter car, so I didn't want to compromise the ground clearance. Other wise I would have went with the bilstein sport struts or koni FSDs with lowering springs. (I didn't want to deal with coilovers for a winter car.)

I picked up a pair of Madmax's rear control arms to replace the lower stock arms. These might not have been necessary but I could feel a clunk in the arms and once removing them the bushings were fairly dry rotted. Something to note here is that the stock length outer bolt (75mm) wasn't long enough for full nut engagement when I installed them. Ended up ordering another pair of the inner bolts (80mm) to fix that. 

Also installed a new pair of OEM rear endlinks since the upper rubber on mine were ripped and deteriorating. Swaybar bushings and front end links were fine. 

The upper spring pad in the rear had completely deteriorated. The remaining pieces fell out when I installed the new shocks so I had to order new ones before I could reassemble.

I noticed one of my front axle CV boots was cracking/ripping while I was taking out the driver side front strut. Can't hurt to inspect your's to see if any need replacing while you're in there anyway.

Besides that, I'd just make sure you have all the hardware to replace all the 1-time-use bolts that seems to hold everything together.


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## walkdontrunn (Jul 23, 2015)

TA said:


> I picked up a pair of Madmax's rear control arms to replace the lower stock arms. These might not have been necessary but I could feel a clunk in the arms and once removing them the bushings were fairly dry rotted. Something to note here is that the stock length outer bolt (75mm) wasn't long enough for full nut engagement when I installed them. Ended up ordering another pair of the inner bolts (80mm) to fix that.
> 
> The upper spring pad in the rear had completely deteriorated. The remaining pieces fell out when I installed the new shocks so I had to order new ones before I could reassemble.
> 
> Besides that, I'd just make sure you have all the hardware to replace all the 1-time-use bolts that seems to hold everything together.


Thanks for the info.

Where did you source the spring pads, 80mm bolts and other 1 time use bolts?


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## TA (Sep 15, 2007)

walkdontrunn said:


> Thanks for the info.
> 
> Where did you source the spring pads, 80mm bolts and other 1 time use bolts?


I bought all that stuff from ECS Tuning. I think they even have per-assembled hardware kits for suspension refreshes, but I actually sourced everything individually. 

Some of the OEM part numbers:

Rear Upper Spring Plate
1J0512149G

Shouldered Hex Bolt 12x1.5x80
N10428002

Self-Locking Nut 12x1.5
N10106402


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## walkdontrunn (Jul 23, 2015)

Thanks for the part numbers.

I was all set on getting the Koni FSD's and keeping my stock springs, but now I keep reading that those shocks will actually raise the front end due to where the coil mounts to the strut. Has that been remedied in the past few years?


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## CaptRon (May 13, 2014)

I've been asking myself the same question for awhile... there must be someone that has installed FSD's on their TT


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## walkdontrunn (Jul 23, 2015)

I ended up buying them, so I can let you know when they come in. Should be by the end of the week.

No one at Neuspeed or Koni new anything about them raising the car and all of the complaints that I read were from around 2008 with someone mentioning that the FSD's had been unavailable for a bit and Koni was possibly correcting them.


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## CaptRon (May 13, 2014)

walkdontrunn said:


> I ended up buying them, so I can let you know when they come in. Should be by the end of the week.
> 
> No one at Neuspeed or Koni new anything about them raising the car and all of the complaints that I read were from around 2008 with someone mentioning that the FSD's had been unavailable for a bit and Koni was possibly correcting them.


Yeah please keep us updated!

Don't forget to measure your ride height (from center hub to edge of fender) before installing your new suspension. Did you get the Neuspeed springs?


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## walkdontrunn (Jul 23, 2015)

CaptRon said:


> Yeah please keep us updated!
> 
> Don't forget to measure your ride height (from center hub to edge of fender) before installing your new suspension. Did you get the Neuspeed springs?


I wasn't able to get them installed before I needed to come back to California, but I'll be flying back to Alabama towards the end of the month to pick up the car and drive it back. I should have the struts on by then, and will let you know.

The final list of parts that I picked up for handling improvements include:

-Koni FSD struts/shocks
-034 Motorsport Track Density Strut mounts and bearings
-MCPI Defcon 2 kit
-Tyrolsport solid front subframe bushings
-2 pairs of MadMax rear control arms

I'm hoping to have that all installed before I go back to pick the car up, but it depends a bit on how much it costs to have all of the bushings installed.


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## walkdontrunn (Jul 23, 2015)

I wasn't able to open up the MadMax control arm package before heading off to the airport. 

Are there any tricky issues with installing them or fitting the headlight adjusters?


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## TA (Sep 15, 2007)

walkdontrunn said:


> I wasn't able to open up the MadMax control arm package before heading off to the airport.
> 
> Are there any tricky issues with installing them or fitting the headlight adjusters?


I'd definitely suggest getting an alignment after installing them.

Also, my headlight bracket did not fit the new round arm. I had to fab up a new bracket with a new u-bolt to get it to attach firmly.


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## walkdontrunn (Jul 23, 2015)

TA said:


> I'd definitely suggest getting an alignment after installing them.
> 
> Also, my headlight bracket did not fit the new round arm. I had to fab up a new bracket with a new u-bolt to get it to attach firmly.


What did you need to pick up to fab the bracket? I don't have the car to measure anything at the moment, but if I knew what to pick up ahead of time, that'd be a huge help.


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## TA (Sep 15, 2007)

walkdontrunn said:


> What did you need to pick up to fab the bracket? I don't have the car to measure anything at the moment, but if I knew what to pick up ahead of time, that'd be a huge help.


It was just a U-Bolt that was the right diameter for the arm along with some shim material. Picked it up at Lowes.


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## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

I had to fab up a rubber piece to fit too. Noah said Max has something if you contact him maybe he can send you one. 

3.2's came with 17's??? My car had 18's and every 3.2 I looked at had 18's stock. I didn't think 17's would clear the front calipers.


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## CaptRon (May 13, 2014)

dogger said:


> I had to fab up a rubber piece to fit too. Noah said Max has something if you contact him maybe he can send you one.
> 
> 3.2's came with 17's??? My car had 18's and every 3.2 I looked at had 18's stock. I didn't think 17's would clear the front calipers.


My 3.2 came with 17's


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## walkdontrunn (Jul 23, 2015)

dogger said:


> I had to fab up a rubber piece to fit too. Noah said Max has something if you contact him maybe he can send you one.
> 
> 3.2's came with 17's??? My car had 18's and every 3.2 I looked at had 18's stock. I didn't think 17's would clear the front calipers.


Thanks for the notice. I contacted Max and he's sending some out to me.

My window sticker says 18" 7 spoke wheels, but the car had the 17's when I bought it used. I'd prefer the 18" Quattro Sport wheels, but buying wheels wasn't in the budget considering everything else that I've needed to do, and I'm not sure that 18's would actually offer any performance benefit.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

walkdontrunn said:


> and I'm not sure that 18's would actually offer any performance benefit.


You'll be faster because your wallet will be lighter. :laugh:


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## walkdontrunn (Jul 23, 2015)

I flew back last weekennd to pick up the car. I was out of town while the shocks were installed so I can't give a before number, but the front end definitely looks higher than it was. The FSD shocks do ride great though. The front visibly sits higher than the front which I'm not too excited about. No one at Koni or Neuspeed seems to be aware of this when you ask. I'd like the car to be sitting level so that's something that may need to be addressed eventually.


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## walkdontrunn (Jul 23, 2015)

Everything else related to the suspension seems to be working just fine on the drive across the country.

Along with the Koni FSD shocks, up front I had the Defcon 2 kit, Lemmfoerder balljoints, 034 Track density strut mounts and bearings, 10mm Spulen spacers and a new power steering pump fitted. The feeling up front is significantly more firm than before. Definitely a sportier feel with no adverse effects.

I have the TyrolSport solid subframe bushings for up front, but the shop suggested they would cause a lot of vibration and didn't install them. Time was also running out and I needed to pick up the car.

Out back I installed 15mm Spulen spacers and replaced all 4 control arms with the Mad Max control arms. Hard to say if there was a performance benefit day to day besides being stronger and adjustable. The car looks to have a lot of camber in the rear, which I was surprised by, but they said more camber helps the car handle better in the turns. It's not ridiculous looking like a lot of the 'stanced' cars, but noticeable. I'll try to get some pictures of the car over the weekend. I'm much more familiar with Jeep and Truck rear solid axles with no camber, so I just expected the rear tires to be 90° to the road.


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## CaptRon (May 13, 2014)

walkdontrunn said:


> I flew back last weekennd to pick up the car. I was out of town while the shocks were installed so I can't give a before number, but the front end definitely looks higher than it was. The FSD shocks do ride great though. The front visibly sits higher than the front which I'm not too excited about. No one at Koni or Neuspeed seems to be aware of this when you ask. I'd like the car to be sitting level so that's something that may need to be addressed eventually.


So that confirms what was said years ago, I was hoping that Koni would have corrected it by now but that was too much to ask. Obviously they don't know about it and they don't care.

As far as the rear camber. I also notice that Audi specs put quite a lot of camber in the rear and it's true that it make the rear handle better in turns and that's exactly what Audi wants; no oversteer and lots of understeer.


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## walkdontrunn (Jul 23, 2015)

CaptRon said:


> So that confirms what was said years ago, I was hoping that Koni would have corrected it by now but that was too much to ask. Obviously they don't know about it and they don't care.
> 
> As far as the rear camber. I also notice that Audi specs put quite a lot of camber in the rear and it's true that it make the rear handle better in turns and that's exactly what Audi wants; no oversteer and lots of understeer.


Koni offers a set of Eibach lowering springs, as does Neuspeed to compliment the FSD shocks. I'd hope that these would take into account the slight raise over the shocks that came off of my 04 S-line.. there are so many different options between every year model of the 3.2, 1.8t, Euro and American versions that its hard to get all of the correct information sometimes. They might even be the same shocks that fit onto all VW group cars of the same chassis, so who knows how many different part numbers VW offers and the aftermarket companies make a universal fit shock.

I can say that I'm very pleased with the feel of the shocks. Noticeably more controlled, but not at all harsh. The feeling of the rear end floating around on high speed sweeping turns with bumps is gone.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

How much rear camber? Should be ~ negative 1.3-1.6*


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

20v master said:


> Should be ~ negative 1.3-1.6*


+ 1,000


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## walkdontrunn (Jul 23, 2015)

Not the best pic for comparison sake, but here's a side shot with the Koni FSD shocks. There is some weight in the back from some gear for the weekend, but it still looks like the front sits higher than it should.

[URL=3.2 TT with Koni FSD][/URL]


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## CaptRon (May 13, 2014)

walkdontrunn said:


> Koni offers a set of Eibach lowering springs, as does Neuspeed to compliment the FSD shocks. I'd hope that these would take into account the slight raise over the shocks that came off of my 04 S-line.. there are so many different options between every year model of the 3.2, 1.8t, Euro and American versions that its hard to get all of the correct information sometimes. They might even be the same shocks that fit onto all VW group cars of the same chassis, so who knows how many different part numbers VW offers and the aftermarket companies make a universal fit shock.
> 
> I can say that I'm very pleased with the feel of the shocks. Noticeably more controlled, but not at all harsh. The feeling of the rear end floating around on high speed sweeping turns with bumps is gone.


Sounds great if it was not for the front end being so high.

I used to have the Eibach springs for my 3.2 but they no longer make them. I wouldn't trust the Neuspeed to be adapted for the FSD shocks because if I remember well it's just a kit that they put up with their sports springs.

The worst part is that when you contacted Koni they said there was no problem. I think one solution to lower the front would be to replace the top strut bushings with bushings from the Seat Leo Cupra bushings. I think they are thinner (to be verified).


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## CaptRon (May 13, 2014)

walkdontrunn said:


> Koni offers a set of Eibach lowering springs, as does Neuspeed to compliment the FSD shocks. I'd hope that these would take into account the slight raise over the shocks that came off of my 04 S-line.. there are so many different options between every year model of the 3.2, 1.8t, Euro and American versions that its hard to get all of the correct information sometimes. They might even be the same shocks that fit onto all VW group cars of the same chassis, so who knows how many different part numbers VW offers and the aftermarket companies make a universal fit shock.
> 
> I can say that I'm very pleased with the feel of the shocks. Noticeably more controlled, but not at all harsh. The feeling of the rear end floating around on high speed sweeping turns with bumps is gone.


Sounds great if it was not for the front end being so high.

I used to have the Eibach springs for my 3.2 but they no longer make them. I wouldn't trust the Neuspeed to be adapted for the FSD shocks because if I remember well it's just a kit that they put up with their sports springs.

The worst part is that when you contacted Koni they said there was no problem. I think one solution to lower the front would be to replace the top strut bushings with bushings from the Seat Leo Cupra bushings. I think they are thinner (to be verified).


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## walkdontrunn (Jul 23, 2015)

CaptRon said:


> Sounds great if it was not for the front end being so high.
> 
> I used to have the Eibach springs for my 3.2 but they no longer make them. I wouldn't trust the Neuspeed to be adapted for the FSD shocks because if I remember well it's just a kit that they put up with their sports springs.
> 
> The worst part is that when you contacted Koni they said there was no problem. I think one solution to lower the front would be to replace the top strut bushings with bushings from the Seat Leo Cupra bushings. I think they are thinner (to be verified).


I didn't think about the strut bushings... I replaced the fronts with 034 Track density strut mounts but didn't do anything with rear spring mounts. That could also be adding to the front end being higher.


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## matt92 (Jan 25, 2016)

I have fitted H&R springs on my 2003 3.2 TT, with Bilstein B8 shocks 1 year 1/2 ago, very satisfied with this setup. I have put PowerFlex bushes all around, great improvement too.


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