# ** GruvenParts.com Has Billet Phaeton Goodies !



## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

* Audi/VW 4.2V8 Intake Linkage Arms ! *


*GruvenParts.com 4.2L V8 Intake Manifold Linkage Arms Warranted for Life !*

Got a 4.2L V8 Audi or VW ? Then you had better check your intake manifold actuator arms (p/n 077198327A)! The OEM versions quickly break, leaving your intake manifold rod stuck, causing poor idle, drivability, loss of power, and poor fuel mileage. This is a very common problem on the 4.2L V8. 

Our intake manifold arms have an aerospace grade billet aluminum body with thread on carbon fiber composite ball end links. The composite end links are actually STRONGER than the aerospace grade aluminum body itself! 

*This is how we can warranty them for life!*

Dont go to the VW/Audi dealer and pay upwards of $400 for the new actuator kit when all you need are the arms (the actuators themselves rarely fail). And DONT pay that kind of money for another set of plastic arms that will break in quick order.

Go with GruvenParts.com and NEVER WORRY ABOUT THIS AGAIN !

Fits the following vehicles:

2004-2007 VW Phaeton V8
2003+ VW Touareg V8
2002-2004 Audi A6/Avant
1998-2004 Audi A6/S6 Quattro
2000+ Audi A8/S8 Quattro

OEM P/N 077198327A (077-198-327A)


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

*VR6 Billet Aux Water Pump Bracket – All VR6*

This part replaces the useless rubber donut OEM P/N 035-959-209E (035959209E) that does a poor job supporting your PRICEY auxiliary water pump, and related PRICEY hoses. The OEM rubber donut allows the weight of the pump and hoses to sag, causing stress which can lead to pump and hose failure. Our billet version is the way VW should of designed it to begin with and locks the pump and hoses tight! On or off track, this part will secure the aux pump and prevent pump and hose failure. 

Replaces OEM P/N 035-959-209E (035959209E) common to the following vehicles - 

Corrado - all VR6
Eos - 2007 + 3.2L VR6
Eurovan - All VR6
R32 - 2004
Golf, Jetta, Jetta Wagon - 1993-2007 All VR6
Passat - 1992-2005 - All VR6 and V8
Phaeton - 2004-2007 6L V12
Touareg - 2003 on 3.2L VR6


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

* GruvenParts.com Die Cut Vinyl Stickers - Free for Orders over $100 ! *

They're Back In Stock - Bigger and Better !! All Colors Now Available. Dress up your ride with our premium die cut vinyl stickers and enjoy free domestic shipping. 

Available in Red, Silver, White and Black. 

We ship out a freebie with any order over $100 !


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

* Audi/VW 4.2V8 Intake Linkage Arms ! *


*GruvenParts.com 4.2L V8 Intake Manifold Linkage Arms Warranted for Life !*

Got a 4.2L V8 Audi or VW ? Then you had better check your intake manifold actuator arms (p/n 077198327A)! The OEM versions quickly break, leaving your intake manifold rod stuck, causing poor idle, drivability, loss of power, and poor fuel mileage. This is a very common problem on the 4.2L V8. 

Our intake manifold arms have an aerospace grade billet aluminum body with thread on carbon fiber composite ball end links. The composite end links are actually STRONGER than the aerospace grade aluminum body itself! 

*This is how we can warranty them for life!*

Dont go to the VW/Audi dealer and pay upwards of $400 for the new actuator kit when all you need are the arms (the actuators themselves rarely fail). And DONT pay that kind of money for another set of plastic arms that will break in quick order.

Go with GruvenParts.com and NEVER WORRY ABOUT THIS AGAIN !

Fits the following vehicles:

2004-2007 VW Phaeton V8
2003+ VW Touareg V8
2002-2004 Audi A6/Avant
1998-2004 Audi A6/S6 Quattro
2000+ Audi A8/S8 Quattro

OEM P/N 077198327A (077-198-327A)


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Give us suggestions guys ... what other billet parts are needed for these cars ?

www.GruvenParts.com


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## Fighterguy (Aug 23, 2006)

GruvenParts.com said:


> Give us suggestions guys ... what other billet parts are needed for these cars ?
> 
> www.GruvenParts.com


The chromed plastic latch for the center console lid is a fragile, high failure item. The VERY small diameter pivot tabs at each end break easily; just dropping the lid can be enough. The latch cannot be bought separately from the lid and the cost of that is several hundred dollars. Once out of warranty, folks just live with a loose lid rather than pay a king's ransom to replace. Don't know if this part is common with enough (if any) other VAG models to make production worth the tooling cost.


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## Paldi (Sep 4, 2004)

*apply over gearshift chrome bezel?*

Might be just the thing needed to cut glare/hide scratches on this part.


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Yes, we have heard about this problem and even the forum moderator was supposed to be sending us out a sample from his car.

We never did get the sample, unfortunately. The last time we visited this topic, it was generally determined that since the center rest stays shut due to gravity, a latch that functioned wasn’t all that necessary.

Is that still the stance owners are taking? Can someone post some detailed pictures of the latch or just email me directly so we can look it over?

I know we also looked at this same issue on the MK4 Golf/Jetta but never got anywhere due to the extreme shape of the injection molded plastic part.


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

*www.GruvenParts.com* 

Please feel free to call or email with any questions regarding our products.


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

* What's in Development Currently ?*

1. Audi A4 adjustable front upper control arms - pics will be posted shortly!

2. 02A side/side cable repair block

3. R32/TT front adjustable swaybar end links

4. VR6, 1.8T, 2.0 billet oil dipstick funnels

5. Corrado stainless rear deck lid cables

Much more ... stay tuned 

www.GruvenParts.com


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## CLMims (Jul 13, 2007)

*Another suggestion*

Hey Gruvenparts, can you come up with an insert for the inner door sills on V8 models? The W12s came with a metal scuff plate (see passenger rear sill below) but the V8s were plastic:










These metal sills cannot be ordered separately unless you get the "Individual" ones:










Reference part numbers:
3D0 853 537 B - left front Individual scuff plate - €82.00
3D0 853 538 B - right front Individual scuff plate - €82.00
3D7 853 539 A - left rear (LWB) Individual scuff plate - €53.20 
3D7 853 540 A - right rear (LWB) Individual scuff plate - €53.20


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

So a billet scuff plate for each door? 

Does anyone have the plastic versions so I can measure?

Also, what logo (if any), and what finish? The finish gets tricky, everyone has a different idea of what "brushed aluminum" is supposed to look like. We could anodize silver or clear, or brush and just clear coat ...

Good idea.

Thanks

[email protected]
www.GruvenParts.com


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

CLMims said:


> Hey Gruvenparts, can you come up with an insert for the inner door sills on V8 models? The W12s came with a metal scuff plate (see passenger rear sill below) but the V8s were plastic:


The door sills on my ROW V8 are metal... (brushed aluminium).

P.


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

So can you buy metal sills for V8, or should we look at making them?

Let us know, we can make them look good, and have any logo you guys want (or no logo at all...)


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## AudianerA6 (Sep 19, 2007)

Oh, I would love to order them from you guys. VW is way too expansive. But I would like to have them look like as original as possible so that it doesn't look aftermarket but really factory installed. Just like the one on the big picture of the scuff plate with individual lettering and the 'I' logo.
There also exists an official VW scuff plate set for the Passat CC with light! Is it possible to add this light feature?
Well for the finish, I would recommend to have a look at a Passat CC, Eos or Touareg with such scuff plates. VW uses the same finish and quality for all modells with Individual scuff plates but of course different sizes


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## CLMims (Jul 13, 2007)

I may have been mistaken about the V8's not having brushed scuff plates (perhaps it was only NAR V8s!)

I found some pics of another style for the "Edition 5" version of the Phaeton - I thought these lit up for some reason, but maybe not....

(This car also had the special edition brushed knobs on the Infotainment that I thought could also be a GruvenParts model)

Link to story: Edition 5 Phaeton


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## AudianerA6 (Sep 19, 2007)

I can image, it would be cool to have this design with 'Edition 1' for GP0 models. Also the knobs are nice, too.
But what about replacing the seat adjustment knobs with a fine and nice brushed alu knob aswell?


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## CLMims (Jul 13, 2007)

*Seat knobs*

I had asked about those a while back (I think Gruvenparts can do a lot of things if they have a model or template to use for measurements!) 

I wonder if the Bentley seat controls would fit on our cars:


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## AudianerA6 (Sep 19, 2007)

The attention to detail, that's what's missing to this car and that's what makes the new BMW 7 and S class real masterpieces.



For example that's a speaker installed in the new S class AMG model year 2010/11:

http://img59.imageshack.us/f/mercedesbenzs63amg20111.jpg/


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## ReallyOldGuy (Jul 22, 2010)

AudianerA6 said:


> The attention to detail, that's what's missing to this car and that's what makes the new BMW 7 and S class real masterpieces.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Whoa! Lack of attention to detail? Yours must be different than mine:screwy:


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## AudianerA6 (Sep 19, 2007)

The S-Class and BMW 7 and now even the new, ugly A8 have got every technical and design element the Phaeton can offer AND even much more on top of that.
Those speakers in the AMG S-Class just blow my mind!


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## 611 (Sep 1, 2010)

It looks to me like Merc copied the Audi Bang and Olufsen speakers and did a bad job of it at that. They just stuck it right where the old speakers were and didn't make the cool motorized presentation that the Audi does. 

Check this link if you haven't seen the Audi ones...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wzZwJjQelmE



AudianerA6 said:


> The S-Class and BMW 7 and now even the new, ugly A8 have got every technical and design element the Phaeton can offer AND even much more on top of that.
> Those speakers in the AMG S-Class just blow my mind!


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

* Audi/VW 4.2V8 Intake Linkage Arms ! *


*GruvenParts.com 4.2L V8 Intake Manifold Linkage Arms Warranted for Life !*

Got a 4.2L V8 Audi or VW ? Then you had better check your intake manifold actuator arms (p/n 077198327A)! The OEM versions quickly break, leaving your intake manifold rod stuck, causing poor idle, drivability, loss of power, and poor fuel mileage. This is a very common problem on the 4.2L V8. 

Our intake manifold arms have an aerospace grade billet aluminum body with thread on carbon fiber composite ball end links. The composite end links are actually STRONGER than the aerospace grade aluminum body itself! 

*This is how we can warranty them for life!*

Dont go to the VW/Audi dealer and pay upwards of $400 for the new actuator kit when all you need are the arms (the actuators themselves rarely fail). And DONT pay that kind of money for another set of plastic arms that will break in quick order.

Go with GruvenParts.com and NEVER WORRY ABOUT THIS AGAIN !

Fits the following vehicles:

2004-2007 VW Phaeton V8
2003+ VW Touareg V8
2002-2004 Audi A6/Avant
1998-2004 Audi A6/S6 Quattro
2000+ Audi A8/S8 Quattro

OEM P/N 077198327A (077-198-327A)


*"The GruvenParts.com 4.2 V8 billet intake links saved me $721.00 over my dealer price! Thanks guys!!* ... D. Jacobs, Chicago, IL 

*"Thanks for making this part. A friend of mine who works at my Audi dealer recommended your company after I saw their estimate. You saved me a ton of $$." * J. Thompson, Miami, FL


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

:beer::beer: 

Follow our supercharger install thread, there will be an interesting twist at the end ... 










http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...rts.com-Corrado-SLC-Supercharger-Build-Thread


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

*Billet Audi and VW Washer Fluid Cap*

Ditch the ugly blue washer fluid cap (or half tennis ball if you’re really ghetto) with one of these slick billet aluminum 6061-T651 versions. 

Ours are CNC machined for a perfect fit and can be ordered in a variety of colors and finishes – including anodized or highly polished. Simply remove the old cap and press fit this one right into the washer tank. 

This product replaces OEM P/N 1K0-955-455 (1K0955455), 1H0-955-455 (1H0955455), and fits nearly every VW and Audi in existence. So, there’s no excuse to rock the half tennis ball anymore!


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

What is the status with this request? Are you guys interested in us making them, and who can help provide either sample parts to measure, or dimensions enough to fabricate a sample ... Please email.

Thanks

[email protected]




CLMims said:


> Hey Gruvenparts, can you come up with an insert for the inner door sills on V8 models? The W12s came with a metal scuff plate (see passenger rear sill below) but the V8s were plastic:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

In contact with the manufacturer of these awesome door sills ... we can have any logo or none at all ... if people want them ...


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Guys lets keep posting ideas you want to see for Phaeton. We are always looking for new products.

If we can get more interested parties, we can sell those aluminum door sill plates. Let us know!

www.GruvenParts.com


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

www.GruvenParts.com


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## tynee (Dec 19, 2007)

I like the door sills and would like a replacement for that chrome shift gate plate that's all pitted on the top of the transmission tunnel.


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## AudianerA6 (Sep 19, 2007)

If you can make the door sill look exactly like the original, either the one with the 'individual i' logo or the one with the stripes at a good price, I will buy it. 
But it really has to look the same, same shape, same form, same material feeling.


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## lmpaz (Aug 24, 2007)

Another product idea for the GruvenParts guys: How about manufacturing the parts to mechanically lower the Phaeton? I have seen them described on the forum a couple of times. The parts look like roll bar drop links and apparently attach to the suspension to trick the ride level components to lower the vehicle. Those currently available appear to be quite pricey.

Leo


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Could you guys show some examples / pics of these items. I will research and see what can be done. Thanks.


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Bump for billet goodness and lots more is on the way ! 

www.GruvenParts.com


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## payday (May 13, 2010)

Bushings please.


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## CLMims (Jul 13, 2007)

Hey Gruven,

I second the call for the "Individual _" door trim strips if you can get them from the same manufacturer and they are similar in fit and finish (and are reasonably affordable)...

Other ideas:

1) Bentley-ized Key fob, with the knurled edge and leather trimmings, that we could transplant the "guts" of our tired old keys into:










(Link to how-to write up: Bentley Key)

2) A more elegant/stylish coat hanger solution for the back of the driver's seat:








_


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

We can do the coat hanger, who all is interested and what features in the design are you looking for ? :thumbup:


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Bump for billet goodness 

www.GruvenParts.com


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Payday - what bushings are you looking for? Please email or call to discuss. Thanks :thumbup:


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

www.GruvenParts.com 

:thumbup:


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

* Audi/VW 4.2V8 Intake Linkage Arms ! *

*GruvenParts.com 4.2L V8 Intake Manifold Linkage Arms Warranted for Life !*

Got a 4.2L V8 Audi or VW ? Then you had better check your intake manifold actuator arms Audi/VW P/N 077-198-327A (077198327A)! The OEM plastic versions quickly break, leaving your intake manifold rod stuck which causes poor idle, drivability, loss of power, and poor fuel mileage. This is a very common problem on the Audi/VW 4.2L V8, an otherwise great engine. The dealer will only sell you a repair kit for nearly $400, and each repair kit only comes with 1 of each length linkage arm. If your vechicle has 2 broken linkage arms, you would need to buy 2 dealer repair kits (cost nearly $800)! 

Our *Billet* intake manifold arms are made from aerospace grade 6061-T651 aluminum with specially machined black Delrin inserts to provide a perfect fit to the actuator balls. *These parts are warrantied for life!*

Dont go to the VW/Audi dealer and pay upwards of $400 for the new actuator kit when all you need are the arms (the actuators themselves rarely fail). And DONT pay that kind of money for another set of plastic arms that will break in quick order.

Go with GruvenParts.com and NEVER WORRY ABOUT THIS AGAIN !

Fits the following vehicles:

2004-2007 VW Phaeton V8
2003+ VW Touareg V8
2002-2004 Audi A6/Avant
1998-2004 Audi A6/S6 Quattro
2000+ Audi A8/S8 Quattro

Replaces OEM P/N 077198327A (077-198-327A)


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

www.GruvenParts.com


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Bump for Billet


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## Appaz (Oct 30, 2009)

Do those linkage arms fit a 2004 V10?


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Appaz said:


> Do those linkage arms fit a 2004 V10?


 I dont know, can you show a pic of that? P/N ?


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

www.GruvenParts.com 

:thumbup:


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Bump for more billet parts ! :beer:



GruvenParts.com said:


> * Audi/VW 4.2V8 Intake Linkage Arms ! *
> 
> *GruvenParts.com 4.2L V8 Intake Manifold Linkage Arms Warranted for Life !*
> 
> ...


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

The DIY for replacing these intake links is now active on our site, on the product page 

:beer:


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## kend414 (Feb 10, 2009)

I'd be interested in the door sill plates. Just a thought, a sample of a door sill plate is hard to get since it is adhesive backed and will be ruined if removed. There is no guarantee you will make it either. Talk about the ultimate sacrifice. For size Gruven should invest in a set as a template. Nearly everyone's sill plates need replacing at least the front.


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Could we just do a flat sheet with laser etched logos in it? Adhesive backed to install ?

If someone can provide a quick sketch, length width ect... we can make up a set for that blessed person to try out  

Who all wants these door sill plates and what is the "fair asking price" you guys want to see? :beer:


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

* Audi/VW 4.2V8 Intake Linkage Arms ! *

*GruvenParts.com 4.2L V8 Intake Manifold Linkage Arms Warranted for Life !*

Got a 4.2L V8 Audi or VW ? Then you had better check your intake manifold actuator arms Audi/VW P/N 077-198-327A (077198327A)! The OEM plastic versions quickly break, leaving your intake manifold rod stuck which causes poor idle, drivability, loss of power, and poor fuel mileage. This is a very common problem on the Audi/VW 4.2L V8, an otherwise great engine. The dealer will only sell you a repair kit for nearly $400, and each repair kit only comes with 1 of each length linkage arm. If your vechicle has 2 broken linkage arms, you would need to buy 2 dealer repair kits (cost nearly $800)! 

Our *Billet* intake manifold arms are made from aerospace grade 6061-T651 aluminum with specially machined black Delrin inserts to provide a perfect fit to the actuator balls. *These parts are warrantied for life!*

Dont go to the VW/Audi dealer and pay upwards of $400 for the new actuator kit when all you need are the arms (the actuators themselves rarely fail). And DONT pay that kind of money for another set of plastic arms that will break in quick order.

Go with GruvenParts.com and NEVER WORRY ABOUT THIS AGAIN !

Fits the following vehicles:

2004-2007 VW Phaeton V8
2003+ VW Touareg V8
2002-2004 Audi A6/Avant
1998-2004 Audi A6/S6 Quattro
2000+ Audi A8/S8 Quattro

Replaces OEM P/N 077198327A (077-198-327A)


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

up for phaeton goodies


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

All orders are shipping TODAY, sorry for any delays.





GruvenParts.com said:


> * Audi/VW 4.2V8 Intake Linkage Arms ! *
> 
> *GruvenParts.com 4.2L V8 Intake Manifold Linkage Arms Warranted for Life !*
> 
> ...


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

All parts are now back in stock, ready to ship world wide !

www.GruvenParts.com


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

* GruvenParts.com Die Cut Vinyl Stickers - Free for Orders over $100 ! *

They're Back In Stock - Bigger and Better !! All Colors Now Available. Dress up your ride with our premium die cut vinyl stickers and enjoy free domestic shipping. 

Available in Red, Silver, White and Black. 

We ship out a freebie with any order over $100 !


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

www.GruvenParts.com


:thumbup:


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

* Audi/VW 4.2V8 Intake Linkage Arms ! *

*GruvenParts.com 4.2L V8 Intake Manifold Linkage Arms Warranted for Life !*

Got a 4.2L V8 Audi or VW ? Then you had better check your intake manifold actuator arms Audi/VW P/N 077-198-327A (077198327A)! The OEM plastic versions quickly break, leaving your intake manifold rod stuck which causes poor idle, drivability, loss of power, and poor fuel mileage. This is a very common problem on the Audi/VW 4.2L V8, an otherwise great engine. The dealer will only sell you a repair kit for nearly $400, and each repair kit only comes with 1 of each length linkage arm. If your vechicle has 2 broken linkage arms, you would need to buy 2 dealer repair kits (cost nearly $800)! 

Our *Billet* intake manifold arms are made from aerospace grade 6061-T651 aluminum with specially machined black Delrin inserts to provide a perfect fit to the actuator balls. *These parts are warrantied for life!*

Dont go to the VW/Audi dealer and pay upwards of $400 for the new actuator kit when all you need are the arms (the actuators themselves rarely fail). And DONT pay that kind of money for another set of plastic arms that will break in quick order.

Go with GruvenParts.com and NEVER WORRY ABOUT THIS AGAIN !

Fits the following vehicles:

2004-2007 VW Phaeton V8
2003+ VW Touareg V8
2002-2004 Audi A6/Avant
1998-2004 Audi A6/S6 Quattro
2000+ Audi A8/S8 Quattro

Replaces OEM P/N 077198327A (077-198-327A)


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Bump for getting rid of plastic on the 4.2 V8 engines !! 

www.GruvenParts.com


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Up for billet parts !!

:thumbup:


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

These are in stock, ready to ship. 



GruvenParts.com said:


> * Audi/VW 4.2V8 Intake Linkage Arms ! *
> 
> *GruvenParts.com 4.2L V8 Intake Manifold Linkage Arms Warranted for Life !*
> 
> ...


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## EurodriverMK3 (Apr 5, 2008)

Fighterguy said:


> The chromed plastic latch for the center console lid is a fragile, high failure item. The VERY small diameter pivot tabs at each end break easily; just dropping the lid can be enough. The latch cannot be bought separately from the lid and the cost of that is several hundred dollars. Once out of warranty, folks just live with a loose lid rather than pay a king's ransom to replace. Don't know if this part is common with enough (if any) other VAG models to make production worth the tooling cost.


 Id be down for this part, mine is broken and its not a big deal but every little thing helps to show off my show stopping land yacht  

Also just ordered the Linkages for the intake arms! Cant wait to install and feel the real power this car has to offer  :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: for great looking parts GRUVEN!


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Can you post some pictures up of this cover? I want to take a look at it.

Thanks.

:thumbup:


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Thanks for the orders on this part, guys ! 

 
* Audi/VW 4.2V8 Intake Linkage Arms ! * 

*GruvenParts.com 4.2L V8 Intake Manifold Linkage Arms Warranted for Life !*


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

GruvenParts.com 

:beer::beer:


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

* Audi/VW 4.2V8 Intake Linkage Arms ! *

*GruvenParts.com 4.2L V8 Intake Manifold Linkage Arms Warranted for Life !*

Got a 4.2L V8 Audi or VW ? Then you had better check your intake manifold actuator arms Audi/VW P/N 077-198-327A (077198327A)! The OEM plastic versions quickly break, leaving your intake manifold rod stuck which causes poor idle, drivability, loss of power, and poor fuel mileage. This is a very common problem on the Audi/VW 4.2L V8, an otherwise great engine. The dealer will only sell you a repair kit for nearly $400, and each repair kit only comes with 1 of each length linkage arm. If your vechicle has 2 broken linkage arms, you would need to buy 2 dealer repair kits (cost nearly $800)! 

Our *Billet* intake manifold arms are made from aerospace grade 6061-T651 aluminum with specially machined black Delrin inserts to provide a perfect fit to the actuator balls. *These parts are warrantied for life!*

Dont go to the VW/Audi dealer and pay upwards of $400 for the new actuator kit when all you need are the arms (the actuators themselves rarely fail). And DONT pay that kind of money for another set of plastic arms that will break in quick order.

Go with GruvenParts.com and NEVER WORRY ABOUT THIS AGAIN !

Fits the following vehicles:

2004-2007 VW Phaeton V8
2003+ VW Touareg V8
2002-2004 Audi A6/Avant
1998-2004 Audi A6/S6 Quattro
2000+ Audi A8/S8 Quattro

Replaces OEM P/N 077198327A (077-198-327A)


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## tynee (Dec 19, 2007)

GruvenParts.com said:


> We can do the coat hanger, who all is interested and what features in the design are you looking for ? :thumbup:


I like that coat hanger. What ballpark are we talking about?


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## tynee (Dec 19, 2007)

*Oil Filter Housing Cap*

I recently had a HUGE problem with my oil filter cap. The plastic nut on top had rounded off, requiring $4000 in repair (when the housing was broken trying to remove it). I talked with Paul at Gruven about making an aluminum cap with a more substantial nut on top to prevent this. Is anyone else interested in this? We'd probably have to drum up some interest to jusify the cost of designing and fabricating them.


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## pope66682 (Jun 12, 2007)

I am interested in the billet door sills if they were ever made. Also, do you have any grilles? I have a 2005 Phaeton


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Guys, to make these parts we need either some OEM parts or good pictures and dimensions.

Please email us directly with this info so we can consider. We are looking into that oil filter cap now. Please also post on this thread if you are interested in any of these parts.

Thanks!

[email protected]
www.GruvenParts.com


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## pope66682 (Jun 12, 2007)

GruvenParts.com said:


> Guys, to make these parts we need either some OEM parts or good pictures and dimensions.
> 
> Please email us directly with this info so we can consider. We are looking into that oil filter cap now. Please also post on this thread if you are interested in any of these parts.
> 
> ...


I will send pics of the grill and door sills and dimensions. Anything else you want dimensions and pics of? I dont mind sending those as well.


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## pope66682 (Jun 12, 2007)

Fighterguy said:


> The chromed plastic latch for the center console lid is a fragile, high failure item. The VERY small diameter pivot tabs at each end break easily; just dropping the lid can be enough. The latch cannot be bought separately from the lid and the cost of that is several hundred dollars. Once out of warranty, folks just live with a loose lid rather than pay a king's ransom to replace. Don't know if this part is common with enough (if any) other VAG models to make production worth the tooling cost.





GruvenParts.com said:


> Can you post some pictures up of this cover? I want to take a look at it.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> :thumbup:


Will post this also if not received yet


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## pope66682 (Jun 12, 2007)

Took a bunch of pics, but dimensions are much harder than I thought.


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## EurodriverMK3 (Apr 5, 2008)

pope66682 said:


> Took a bunch of pics, but dimensions are much harder than I thought.


I can post pictures too, just mine is broken. don't know if that will help- to show where the weak point is maybe. if its an easy install and fairly priced- ill deff be purchasing one. 

Jordan


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## EurodriverMK3 (Apr 5, 2008)

tynee said:


> I recently had a HUGE problem with my oil filter cap. The plastic nut on top had rounded off, requiring $4000 in repair (when the housing was broken trying to remove it). I talked with Paul at Gruven about making an aluminum cap with a more substantial nut on top to prevent this. Is anyone else interested in this? We'd probably have to drum up some interest to jusify the cost of designing and fabricating them.


Can you please explain more? Did you have an engine failure due to oil loss or plastic/metal in the valve train?? I'm interested, also would like to prevent the same 4k$ repair. Thank you.

Jordan


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## tynee (Dec 19, 2007)

The oil filter cap is plastic, and easily rounded off and over tightened onto the metal housing. Once this happens, it's very hard to remove, in order to do an oil change. While trying to remove the cap, the threaded edge of the metal housing can become damaged, necessitating replacement of the housing. This can only be done by dropping the engine and transmission, hence the exorbitant cost.


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Please post or email pictures of the oil cap and part number. We are working on these for the VR6 motors and can add the 4.2 version to our list.

Thanks

:beer:


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## tynee (Dec 19, 2007)

Reading the numbers off the underside of the cap, I see:
00 0887 102 008
and:
PA66-GF35
I can send the damaged cap to you for measurements if you'd like.


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## tynee (Dec 19, 2007)

Actually, I can send you the filter cap and the engine piece it screws into if required. That way you can verify fitment with any new pieces you mill out of aluminum.


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## tynee (Dec 19, 2007)

Here's the housing, it's not too big, just a little heavy. Shipping shouldn't be crazy if you're interested:


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## Bedlam (Aug 10, 2012)

Wow, that should really not be made out of plastic. It looks way too easy to round off.


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## EurodriverMK3 (Apr 5, 2008)

Thank you very much for the info. I must have read it wrong, I thought you were talking about the oil cap on the top of the engine. This makes more sense.

Jordan


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## 29_MALE_SOCAL_SPICY (Jun 16, 2008)

Awesome job guys! I too have broken a oil filter end cap, on a VR6.


I ordered my intake vacuum links yesterday evening, a email with shipping info appeared hours later.


GruvenParts works really fast, great job guys :thumbup::thumbup:


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

*YES PLEASE SEND US THAT PLASTIC CAP AND METAL HOUSING !!*

Yikes that thing should never have been made from plastic.

Looks very similar to the VR6 version.

If you can send it to us, please email me directly and we'll figure out the details. 

Same exact problem happens on the VR6 motors, too. Thanks for pictures of carnage!


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## tynee (Dec 19, 2007)

GruvenParts.com said:


> *YES PLEASE SEND US THAT PLASTIC CAP AND METAL HOUSING !!*
> 
> Yikes that thing should never have been made from plastic.
> 
> ...


Roger, emails sent. Let me know if you don't get them.


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## IwasHuman (Jun 30, 2012)

*IM linkage arms*

So I just want to make sure I get the operation of the linkage arms correct before I make false assumptions. I just went out and took a look at mine. 

I pulled the car into the driveway and opened the hood with car still running, vacuum pods fully deflated. I shut the car off and had another look, vacuum pods still fully deflated. Took pics for comparison in the house. Went inside to throw a couple things in the oven. Went back out about 5 minutes later, opened the hood, pulled the cover, wait for it..............*pop, actuators in inflated position. Talk about good timing. As I understand by reading on the gruven site, they should immediately change position, so I believe they are gunked. 

So these should vary depending on throttle position due to the varying vacuum pull in the manifold, correct? And if it's taking a few minutes to change from full vacuum (deflated) to no vacuum (inflated), then it's safe to assume it's not moving real time as I drive?

Looks I definitely need to repair this. I'm excited about what kind of freeway power I might be missing out on!! 

Has anyone ever had VW repair these under warranty? I mean, they are faulty if they're not doing their proper job, right? I'd definitely want to replace the arms with the gruven billets if I'm going to have them off anyways.


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## EurodriverMK3 (Apr 5, 2008)

IwasHuman said:


> So I just want to make sure I get the operation of the linkage arms correct before I make false assumptions. I just went out and took a look at mine.
> 
> I pulled the car into the driveway and opened the hood with car still running, vacuum pods fully deflated. I shut the car off and had another look, vacuum pods still fully deflated. Took pics for comparison in the house. Went inside to throw a couple things in the oven. Went back out about 5 minutes later, opened the hood, pulled the cover, wait for it..............*pop, actuators in inflated position. Talk about good timing. As I understand by reading on the gruven site, they should immediately change position, so I believe they are gunked.
> 
> ...


 

You can save yourself a ton of headache and time by doing a simple mod i performed. I used to work on spy planes in the army and we had this issue sometimes. bypass is key here. I had the same "slow diaphragm" deal that your describing, although mine didn't take 5+ minutes, it was still far from "instant". There is a valve that is half white and half black in the lines by the left valve. Once I removed the old broken arms and replaced them with the gruven links, I pulled off the valve and the small 2in section of hose so that the existing hose work would connect back together without the valve. Once finished, it works perfectly. I have emailed several companies and even VW asking what they put this valve there for and I get no response or no one knows. We used it because our planes flew in excess of 25,000 ft and needed it for proper function of the system. My car seems to run fine, I get fuel economy that I'm supposed to. Its rocket ship fast, and has no issues. When revving it at the different rpm ranges, they function properly. So I recommend doing this unless your arms are seized which by your description, I highly doubt it. Take pictures and ask questions, Ill try to help any way I can. I can even take pictures for you and show you my setup. Maybe even before and after videos of it. Good Luck and enjoy your Chariot of the sun  (a little Greek mythology on the name for the car) 


Jordan


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## tomasty (May 24, 2011)

EurodriverMK3 said:


> You can save yourself a ton of headache and time by doing a simple mod i performed. I used to work on spy planes in the army and we had this issue sometimes. bypass is key here. I had the same "slow diaphragm" deal that your describing, although mine didn't take 5+ minutes, it was still far from "instant". There is a valve that is half white and half black in the lines by the left valve. Once I removed the old broken arms and replaced them with the gruven links, I pulled off the valve and the small 2in section of hose so that the existing hose work would connect back together without the valve. Once finished, it works perfectly. I have emailed several companies and even VW asking what they put this valve there for and I get no response or no one knows. We used it because our planes flew in excess of 25,000 ft and needed it for proper function of the system. My car seems to run fine, I get fuel economy that I'm supposed to. Its rocket ship fast, and has no issues. When revving it at the different rpm ranges, they function properly. So I recommend doing this unless your arms are seized which by your description, I highly doubt it. Take pictures and ask questions, Ill try to help any way I can. I can even take pictures for you and show you my setup. Maybe even before and after videos of it. Good Luck and enjoy your Chariot of the sun  (a little Greek mythology on the name for the car)
> 
> 
> Jordan


 Jordan, 

If you can write up a step by step instruction and put up some photos, even videos, that will benifit lot of Phaeton owners I believe, as my car is doing the exact same thing, I already replace the actuator arms with Gruvenparts, and like to get this issue fixed as well. 

Thanks! 

Tomas


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## IwasHuman (Jun 30, 2012)

I'll give that a shot, first just removing them to see if it works. I'm waiting for gruven to release the oil filter cap before ordering the linkage arms at the same time. I remember having like 15 of these on my Grand Wagoneer....ok, maybe it was more like 4. Some were black/white, some purple/white. From everything I could find they were used to hold a certain vacuum during operation, possibly high altitude operation. Maybe that makes sense. I'm coastal, so the highest I go is about 6k feet when hitting the mountains. I'll report back with results. Thanks for the tip!


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## IwasHuman (Jun 30, 2012)

Hey Jordan, I tried that fix, removing the check valve. No success. The actuator pods do deflate immediately once I shut her down, but no change in operation up to 4k rpm. 

Exactly what I did: pulled vacuum lines off of the check valve and used a splice to connect them back. Ignition on, vacuum deflates the pods. Turn off, pods immediately inflate. I put my camera in position to record the action. Slow reved up to 4000rpm, hold for a couple seconds, then off. Checked the video and both pods stayed deflated the entire time. Took it for a drive, didn't feel anything incredibly different. I had high hopes though, maybe it made a difference and I was expecting too much? Maybe they'll only work under a load or heavy reving? I've seen videos of audi 4.2's that will actuate under a slow rev. From what I read in the gruven doc for the billet arms, the stage should switch over at about 3300rpm and the 5200rpm. 

I don't even see how these things should work though. I mean, vacuum line from IM to check valve, then splits one to vacuum reservoir and other to IMT (intake manifold t...? little electrical valve control thing). This thing has one line out that splits to both pods. So if we think about how vacuum works on these engines, you have vacuum at idle, both pods deflate. On initial throttle there's an open atmosphere when the TB opens up and vacuum drops, yet the pods stay deflated. One of two things could be happening. 1) that little IMT is holding shut and maintaining vacuuwith to both pods in a closed loop, or 2) the reservoir maintains enough negative atmosphere to keep the pods under vacuum. As rpm increases, so does vacuum. So lets go with #1. That means it would have to open to let atmosphere in the system in order for the mid range pod to inflate. But how would ONLY that pod inflate if they're both tee'd off the same line from the IMT? #2 the reservoir, ok that holds vacuum in the pods at initial throttle, but still lends nothing to inflate the pods independently, and the IMT would still have to open to atmosphere for pods to inflate. 

Then, I look at pictures of the system used on audi 4.2's, and there's two IMT's. One for each pod. That makes sense! I look at a video of the t-reg and it has 2 IMT's. What gives? Has anybody actually seen this thing work right on a P 4.2? Any of you in the Seattle area? I'd love to explore this more. I want my full power!!!!:laugh:


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

From what you're saying, I'm not convinced they're not working correctly. Mine go from deflated to collapsed as soon as I start the engine. I'm not sure at what point the car should release the vacuum, but isn't it possible it's electronically controlled and only does it when you're actually moving? You might need to run it on a rolling road to see it happen. It doesn't make a massive difference anyway, although it is definitely noticeable. You could always try disconnecting them completely and see if you can tell a difference when you accelerate.


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## IwasHuman (Jun 30, 2012)

I considered that too, but seeing videos online of people free reving and the actuators working made me dismiss that thought. I guess it's still possible that our system works differently, considering that we do in fact have a slightly different setup than the other 4.2's. But i still dont get how they would actuate independently, unless maybe they're both under a different spring resistance so less vacuum is needed to actuate one compared to the other.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

The "known" issue with them (other than the arms breaking, which some speculate is a consequence of the other problem) is corrosion inside the intake manifold, but that manifests itself by the arms not moving even under vacuum. You can also check for that by moving them manually (they're really stiff anyway). On the Audi forums, you'll find people who are convinced that the arms break because the arms are immobilized by the corrosion, but that's definitely not the case (not the only case, anyway). I suppose it's possible, if there is corrosion, that the vacuum is sufficient to overcome it, but the return spring isn't, so when the vacuum is off they don't immediately move back.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

This thread is very useful for learning more about how they work, and shows how to fix the corrosion if that's the problem: 
http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=2801728


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## IwasHuman (Jun 30, 2012)

invisiblewave said:


> This thread is very useful for learning more about how they work, and shows how to fix the corrosion if that's the problem:
> http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=2801728


 That's the thread I've been referencing, and looking at it more, and what our IM looks like, I don't think we have a 3 stage system like all the others. If you look at their setup, the valve rod that opens up the mid and short runners are at the bottom and top of the manifold, respectively. In this configuration, they will have an equal effect on all runners because there's a true symmetry. All plenums/runners are mid length at the center bottom, and short length at the center top. 

Now look at ours. 










Actuators side by side. Opening one of those valve rods would only have an effect on one bank. So both open at the same time to effect both banks. 2 stage system. This morning driving, I could feel a difference at somewhere between 4500-5000rpm (wasn't really watching the tach until I felt the surge). If this is true, instead of our IM's opening up mid and short runs, they just open up one stage somewhere in between, like a short-mid run. So it seems we might have a more efficient IM than the others, if we're getting more power out of two stages compared to their three. 

There's always a possibility that I'm wrong. I mean, there could be an intricate set of linkages inside the manifold so that the valves are actually at the center bottom/center top, but I think that's somewhat unlikely.


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## EurodriverMK3 (Apr 5, 2008)

stage 1- closed
stage 2-one valve open
stage 3- both valves open.

Jordan


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## Rona55ld (Sep 10, 2012)

we can sell those aluminum door sill plates

http://www.*********/11.jpg


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

To start working on the sill plates, I will either need 1 to measure or someone to email us the dimensions - length, width, thickness. Please let me know if people are serious about those.


:beer:


www.GruvenParts.com


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## IwasHuman (Jun 30, 2012)

EurodriverMK3 said:


> stage 1- closed
> stage 2-one valve open
> stage 3- both valves open.
> 
> Jordan


I understand thats how it works on all other 4.2 V8's, but the design on ours, externally, is not laid out to work like this. If one valve oped at stage 2, on the right side, left bank would run mid runners, and right bank would be extremely short. Ours is the only 4.2 with a different actuator configuration. Until I see a video of it working, or see it in person, i'm going to believe that ours are two stage.

Stage 1: closed
Stage 2: both valves open.

I could be wrong and i'll be more than happy to be proved so. That would mean there is more untapped power to be had on mine.


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## IwasHuman (Jun 30, 2012)

Since I have a little time before work kicks up, thought I'd hop into paint and doodle what it looks like to me.

Here we have what all the other 4.2's have, which is better illustrated in the link above:








Notice the valves are placed center bottom and top. Equal actions on both right and left bank. This is looking at the front of the engine btw. 

This is what ours looks like, and what would be happening if we were a 3 stage.








Notice our valves are placed on left and right, as in my picture above. If it were 3 stage, we would have unequal actions on right and left bank. (I might have the exact placement on the runners wrong, as well as the supposed order)

This is how I think it works, in a 2 stage system.








From everything I can see externally, this makes sense, and works.

Like I said earlier, there could be internal linkages that run from the left/right actuator arms to valves at center top and bottom, and that it does work like the others. But I don't see how the vacuum routing design would support that, actuating each independently. And why design it differently to begin with? If going with a 3 stage setup, the way it is on all the other 4.2's works fine. It's obvious that there's something different about our engines that makes them just slightly more powerful than the others. Maybe a 2 stage is just what the doctor ordered. 

Hopefully this clears up my explanations above. Sorry about the poor art work


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Very interesting! I've been trying, unsuccessfully, to visualize this ever since I started investigating my broken arms. Thanks!


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## 29_MALE_SOCAL_SPICY (Jun 16, 2008)

Great Post. :thumbup:


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Can anyone also post where to buy the actuator without having to buy the whole kit ? 

I have had several customers in past week ask me, I thought there was a cruise actuator that is the same thing for much less. If someone can let us know, I will add it to our DIY. :beer:


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

www.GruvenParts.com 

:thumbup:


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

*VR6 Billet Aux Water Pump Bracket – All VR6*

This part replaces the useless rubber donut OEM P/N 035-959-209E (035959209E) that does a poor job supporting your PRICEY auxiliary water pump, and related PRICEY hoses. The OEM rubber donut allows the weight of the pump and hoses to sag, causing stress which can lead to pump and hose failure. Our billet version is the way VW should of designed it to begin with and locks the pump and hoses tight! On or off track, this part will secure the aux pump and prevent pump and hose failure. 

Replaces OEM P/N 035-959-209E (035959209E) common to the following vehicles - 

Corrado - all VR6
Eos - 2007 + 3.2L VR6
Eurovan - All VR6
R32 - 2004
Golf, Jetta, Jetta Wagon - 1993-2007 All VR6
Passat - 1992-2005 - All VR6 and V8
Phaeton - 2004-2007 6L V12
Touareg - 2003 on 3.2L VR6


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## boreal (Aug 18, 2005)

The other day I finally checked to see if my intake arms were broken.......surprise,surprise they were. I just installed the GruvenParts arms and...............THIS IS NOT THE SAME CAR!!!!!
Those damn arms must have been broken for years because it has never pulled like this before.
I had a Unitronics ECU reflash done last year which I felt a bit but now.........Uberlimo.
Best 80 bucks I ever spent.


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Good to hear! Post up some install pics if you can. And yes, its amazing what a difference a properly working intake system makes. :thumbup:



boreal said:


> The other day I finally checked to see if my intake arms were broken.......surprise,surprise they were. I just installed the GruvenParts arms and...............THIS IS NOT THE SAME CAR!!!!!
> Those damn arms must have been broken for years because it has never pulled like this before.
> I had a Unitronics ECU reflash done last year which I felt a bit but now.........Uberlimo.
> Best 80 bucks I ever spent.


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## cata1569 (Jun 25, 2012)

I entered your site GrüvenParts.com, but I didn't saw a group of parts for Phaeton. There is a list ?
Can be made that ?


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## tynee (Dec 19, 2007)

*Housing Cap*



GruvenParts.com said:


> *YES PLEASE SEND US THAT PLASTIC CAP AND METAL HOUSING !!*
> 
> Yikes that thing should never have been made from plastic.
> 
> ...



Any update on the development of the housing cap?


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## IwasHuman (Jun 30, 2012)

Any news on the billet oil filter caps? My change is coming up, and I’d love to swap the plastic one out.

A little update...back on post 85-99, I was in a conversation about the actual operation of the actuator and the way the system worked. It was suggested that I remove the vacuum check valve, the little black/white thing that’s mid line from IM source to the vacuum control unit/solenoid. I did this, and left it that way. I still hold true to my claim that our system is two stage, and inquired about this with the tech at my dealer, who wasn’t 100% sure on how the system worked, but said that it made perfect sense. So pulling this check valve made no difference in that case, except that now the pods would deflate immediately when shutting the car down. 

But it did make a difference. It was slight, but I started to notice it the more I was in different driving conditions that would cause me to accelerate. I noticed it the most on the freeway, when changing lanes and accelerating to pass traffic. At initial acceleration I would get a little bog in the engine before actually revving up and down shifting. I also noticed under acceleration from a stop that it seemed to be a bit boggy at first. After contemplating on this, it made sense to me that this was not normal and actually caused by removing that check valve.

Look at the way vacuum works under different stages of NA engine operation. Sitting at idle with the TB closed, there’s a constant vacuum as the engine pulls for air that’s not readily there. Open it up to WOT and there’s suddenly an abundance of air, but the engines not yet spinning fast enough to use it all, so you get a 0 vacuum condition. As the engine revs up it starts to need more and more air, eventually pulling in more than is readily available again, creating vacuum. The point, anytime you’re at a constant engine speed there is vacuum. Open the taps, and there’s a point of 0 vacuum and then a steady build again. 

What would this do to the vacuum pods for our IM actuators without the check valve? Under steady load, say around 2000rpm, the pods are deflated under vacuum, short runners are closed off. Then you open it up to pass someone or just hoon a bit, you now have 0 vacuum, the pods inflate without the vacuum, opening up the short runners, which are not ideal at that engine range. Eventually the vacuum builds and things start operating as normal again. You hit about 4-4200rpm and the solenoids cut off vacuum to the pods and release them to inflate, opening up the short runners.

Now throw that check valve back in. The check valve works by using the vacuum on the white side to hold the valve shut. As soon as the load equalizes on both sides of the valve, it will open up. So as long as the engine is supplying vacuum to the black side, the valve stays open applying that vacuum to the pods. But as soon as WOT happens and vacuum hits 0, you now have unequal load on the valve, with vacuum on the white side, therefore holding it closed, and the pods stay deflated, and the short runners stay closed. Vacuum is restored, all is normal. The rpm’s climb to the switchover and the solenoid cuts off vacuum to the pods and allows them to inflate, opening up the short runners. The check valve is necessary. 

I reinstalled mine today, and felt a VERY noticeable improvement in initial throttle response under all conditions on my way to work. I think removing the check valve is a mistake. Having it installed the wrong way would cause problems, but it does need to be there.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Aaron,

Thanks for that analysis. It really adds to the body of knowledge here, it's what I really like about this forum.

Chris


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## IwasHuman (Jun 30, 2012)

You bet Chris. I think the more we can understand about these car's and the way they work, the better. Especially as they age.


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## EurodriverMK3 (Apr 5, 2008)

Very impressive analysis. Thank you for the input. I will be reinstalling mine before the next drive. I ran my car at the track and thought about putting it back in to see different times, but it was far to hot for my hands in there. With a 1/4 tank of gas, full interior and spare tire, about 50lbs of stuff in the car plus me at 180lbs. It was I'd say 75* outside and sea level. I ran a best time of 15.6 at I think 92mph. I was still happy, but would be nice to be in the mid 14's. thanks again


Jordan


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## IwasHuman (Jun 30, 2012)

I guess 15 seconds isn't bad for such a heavy beast. Let me know your results if you re-install. I think I didn't notice the loss of power when I first removed it because I was still fairly new in the car, and it was around the time I was trying to find out just how much mpg's I could squeeze out. So a lot of soft driving. I gave up on that though, perfectly contempt with 15.3mpg's. Re-installing that check valve did wonders for my power though. You might shave a significant amount of time if it helps you get off the line quicker, which theoretically it will.

Aaron


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

These are in stock, ready to ship :



* Audi/VW 4.2V8 Intake Linkage Arms ! *

*GruvenParts.com 4.2L V8 Intake Manifold Linkage Arms Warranted for Life !*

Got a 4.2L V8 Audi or VW ? Then you had better check your intake manifold actuator arms Audi/VW P/N 077-198-327A (077198327A)! The OEM plastic versions quickly break, leaving your intake manifold rod stuck which causes poor idle, drivability, loss of power, and poor fuel mileage. This is a very common problem on the Audi/VW 4.2L V8, an otherwise great engine. The dealer will only sell you a repair kit for nearly $400, and each repair kit only comes with 1 of each length linkage arm. If your vechicle has 2 broken linkage arms, you would need to buy 2 dealer repair kits (cost nearly $800)! 

Our *Billet* intake manifold arms are made from aerospace grade 6061-T651 aluminum with specially machined black Delrin inserts to provide a perfect fit to the actuator balls. *These parts are warrantied for life!*

Dont go to the VW/Audi dealer and pay upwards of $400 for the new actuator kit when all you need are the arms (the actuators themselves rarely fail). And DONT pay that kind of money for another set of plastic arms that will break in quick order.

Go with GruvenParts.com and NEVER WORRY ABOUT THIS AGAIN !

Fits the following vehicles:

2004-2007 VW Phaeton V8
2003+ VW Touareg V8
2002-2004 Audi A6/Avant
1998-2004 Audi A6/S6 Quattro
2000+ Audi A8/S8 Quattro

Replaces OEM P/N 077198327A (077-198-327A)


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## tynee (Dec 19, 2007)

*Update?*



tynee said:


> Any update on the development of the housing cap?


News?


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Unfortunately none yet. 

I have a meeting with engineering this week, they are working on several other projects, hopefully this will wrap up soon. I will keep updating as I get more info.


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## tynee (Dec 19, 2007)

Roger, thanks.


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## mullet5 (Feb 8, 2002)

Installed my linkage arms last week. They look great, easy install. Thanks Gruven! I did not notice a difference in power/response/driveability, so I will be watching this thread to see what develops. 

I did notice some resistance on one of the levers (the part on the intake manifold) when it was at full the end of its travel, I am guessing this is the corrosion people were referencing earlier? I will revisit this soon, with pictures. 

Is there anyone out there that can find a test procedure for this system? If there is such a thing in a service manual, that would take the guess work out of what we are all doing.


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## IwasHuman (Jun 30, 2012)

mullet5 said:


> Installed my linkage arms last week. They look great, easy install. Thanks Gruven! I did not notice a difference in power/response/driveability, so I will be watching this thread to see what develops.
> 
> I did notice some resistance on one of the levers (the part on the intake manifold) when it was at full the end of its travel, I am guessing this is the corrosion people were referencing earlier? I will revisit this soon, with pictures.
> 
> Is there anyone out there that can find a test procedure for this system? If there is such a thing in a service manual, that would take the guess work out of what we are all doing.


 Best way to test it is to have someone rev the engine up to about 5k while you watch. I don't know the exact value, but somewhere around 38-4200rpm the pods should inflate, opening up the short runners. 

Aaron


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Post Christmas bump :laugh:

www.GruvenParts.com


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

* Audi/VW 4.2V8 Intake Linkage Arms ! *

*GruvenParts.com 4.2L V8 Intake Manifold Linkage Arms Warranted for Life !*

Got a 4.2L V8 Audi or VW ? Then you had better check your intake manifold actuator arms Audi/VW P/N 077-198-327A (077198327A)! The OEM plastic versions quickly break, leaving your intake manifold rod stuck which causes poor idle, drivability, loss of power, and poor fuel mileage. This is a very common problem on the Audi/VW 4.2L V8, an otherwise great engine. The dealer will only sell you a repair kit for nearly $400, and each repair kit only comes with 1 of each length linkage arm. If your vechicle has 2 broken linkage arms, you would need to buy 2 dealer repair kits (cost nearly $800)! 

Our *Billet* intake manifold arms are made from aerospace grade 6061-T651 aluminum with specially machined black Delrin inserts to provide a perfect fit to the actuator balls. *These parts are warrantied for life!*

Dont go to the VW/Audi dealer and pay upwards of $400 for the new actuator kit when all you need are the arms (the actuators themselves rarely fail). And DONT pay that kind of money for another set of plastic arms that will break in quick order.

Go with GruvenParts.com and NEVER WORRY ABOUT THIS AGAIN !

Fits the following vehicles:

2004-2007 VW Phaeton V8
2003+ VW Touareg V8
2002-2004 Audi A6/Avant
1998-2004 Audi A6/S6 Quattro
2000+ Audi A8/S8 Quattro

Replaces OEM P/N 077198327A (077-198-327A)


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

bump for the best products for your ride 


www.GruvenParts.com


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## Cantrellc123 (Aug 5, 2012)

I just went to your site and I didn't see ANYTHING about a Phaeton,parts or otherwise. 
What exactly do you have for the Phaeton?

Cantrell


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

You will need to look in either MK4 or Audi engine sections. 

At present, we offer the 4.2L intake manifold linkage arms shown above.

We will soon also have billet oil filter housings for this car as well, they will look similar to our VR6 versions already released. :thumbup:


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

* Billet 2.4” Vortech Supercharger Pulleys ! *

* GruvenParts.com Billet 2.4” Supercharger Pulleys for Vortech Chargers !*

Got a boost addiction? Check out these 2.4” diameter supercharger pulleys for V Series Vortech superchargers. This pulley will allow your charger to spin faster, creating more boost and more power.

These pulleys are precision CNC’d from 6061-T6511 aluminum and are sized to precisely match the shaft output on Vortech chargers. These pulleys are 7 rib, but can be used in 6 rib applications that provide enough clearance for a 7 rib pulley (you would just have 1 empty rib). Please note the offset distance (from charger side of pulley to the centerline of the 1st rib = 0.650”). Rib spacing is 0.140” center to center (for K style serpentine belts). The overall width from end to end = 1.640”.

These pulleys come machined to accept the standard woodruff key found on the Vortech V Series supercharger output shafts (key and bolt not included). Please calculate your maximum impeller RPM to ensure you do not overdrive the supercharger at high RPMs. This product may void any Vortech factory warranties.


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Monday bump !



GruvenParts.com said:


> * Audi/VW 4.2V8 Intake Linkage Arms ! *
> 
> *GruvenParts.com 4.2L V8 Intake Manifold Linkage Arms Warranted for Life !*
> 
> ...


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

More good stuff in the works for Phaeton


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## mullet5 (Feb 8, 2002)

If you are going to say something like that, you are going to have to give us a hint!


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

This :

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre....2-V8-Billet-Oil-Filter-Housing-Feeler-Thread


* Billet VW/Audi 4.2L V8 Oil Filter Housings ! *

* Precision Machined Aluminum Oil Filter Housings For VW And Audi 4.2L V8 Engines !*

We now have 7 buyers so we are starting production, should be done in few weeks


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Bump for billet intake linkage arms !



GruvenParts.com said:


> * Audi/VW 4.2V8 Intake Linkage Arms ! *
> 
> *GruvenParts.com 4.2L V8 Intake Manifold Linkage Arms Warranted for Life !*
> 
> ...


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

We now have filter housings in stock ! 


Shipping tomorrow, still some left in this batch ! :beer::beer::beer:


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

* Billet VW/Audi 4.2L V8 Oil Filter Housings ! * 

* Precision Machined Aluminum Oil Filter Housings For VW And Audi 4.2L V8 Engines !* 

GruvenParts.com now has these billet aluminum oil filter housing covers for VW and Audi 4.2L V8 to replace OEM part number 077-115-433B (077115433B). The OEM plastic oil filter housing cover is not very durable and often strips out making it impossible to remove the oil filter. The engine flange which this cover screws into costs over $1,000 and is easily broken while trying to remove a stripped filter housing cover. We have put an end to this nonsense ! 

The GruvenParts billet aluminum oil filter housing cover is made from a massive chunk of *Aircraft Grade 6061-T6511 Aluminum*. The section is delicately placed onto one of our special CNC machining centers and precision cut to EXACTLY match the OEM plastic housing. The metal gods (well, in this case, one of our highly talented CNC programmers) has programmed elaborate steps for the very time consuming and expensive operation of profiling the special buttress threads into the housing using the exact DIN spec thread cutting tool required for a perfect seal. It simply doesn’t get better than this! 

We also provide *USEABLE 24mm hex flats* so you can easily remove the housing with a standard 24mm socket. This could possibly make changing your oil fun again! 

Fits the following vehicles : 
VW Phaeton w/4.2L V8 (all years) 
Audi A4/S4/Quattro/Cabrio (2002-2007) w/4.2L V8 BHF engine 
Audi A6 / AllRoad (2001-2007) w/4.2L V8 BNK and BAS engines 
Audi A8 (2003-2006) w/4.2L V8 BFM and BGK engines 

May fit other vehicles as well, please check to see if your vehicle uses OEM part number 077-115-433B (077115433B) oil filter housing cover. 

This housing uses the standard OEM filter, P/N 079-198-405A (079198405A). You can order the billet housing with or without the filter.


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)




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## [email protected] (Dec 13, 2013)

Phaeton Billet Bump! :thumbup::thumbup:


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## [email protected] (Dec 13, 2013)

Tis the season bump!


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## [email protected] (Dec 13, 2013)

2014 bump!


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