# bought the 16v kit today



## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

used junkyard kit: for $500
--------------------
-garrett t3 .50 trim
-custom exhaust manifold
-custom fuel rail
-modified mazda rx-7 FMIC
-custom short runner intake manifold
-SS piping
-custom DP
















































































ok so i checked the turbo for shaftplay and there is minimum like 1mm or less.. also everything seems to be in good condition but as for the short runner it looks like my 16v TB wont bolt on to it..
anyways i talked to a mechanic he said he'd take my CIS-basic, and my N/A stuff and install the kit for me (and if welding is needed..etc. he'll do it all) and put an EFI for me and bigger injectors and stuff.. and ill be able to run 0.7 bar (around 10-11psi) on stock CR, for $400..
so i though it was a nice deal but today i was verifying something, and it turns out he'll be taking my exhaust manifold, and my 50mm manifold and everything that wont be needed for the F/I ! and im sor tof attached to my 50mm so i dont know... if u think about it i wont really be missing it cuz im sure after F/I i wont be using manifolds and N/A stuff anymore.. he said if i want to keep the manifold ill have to add $100 to the $400... so i dont know..
i did a whole lot reading about turboing CIS for nothing







and i wanted to be able to get a nice boost gauge and air/fuel and pod and also i had my eyes set on the tial 50mm bov








he said it takes about 10 days to be done
anyways im pretty happy right now, i mean 10 months ago i didnt have a car, didnt know how to drive, and i had no clue what was under the hood of any car..
so http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif to this forum and all the good info and inspiring pics and videos






















ill be updating this site as things progress..
so anyways feel free to share any thoughts and suggestions on what i should do with the installation process


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## jamaicula (Jul 10, 2002)

*Re: bought the 16v kit today (liquidtension)*

That fuel rail looks dangerous.


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## rossmc1 (Feb 29, 2004)

*Re: bought the 16v kit today (jamaicula)*

I was just going to type the same thing,what is that made from??if i was u i would bin it,and buy one,also u say there isnt a lot of play in the shaft ,i aint a turbo expert but i think it u have anywhere near 1mm play that would be to much,check if the play is just side ways,and not in and out the way.
What is the inlet manifold made from??have u checked it fits okay
Not sure on this but isnt the 50mm Tial a bit overkill,a smaller one will work fine with what u plan to run


_Modified by rossmc1 at 10:38 PM 11-12-2004_


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## vfarren (Sep 11, 2000)

*Re: bought the 16v kit today (liquidtension)*


_Quote, originally posted by *liquidtension* »_ i did a whole lot reading about turboing CIS for nothing







and i wanted to be able to get a nice boost gauge and air/fuel and pod and also i had my eyes set on the tial 50mm bov









Reading up on things is NEVER a waste of time. Now you know more than when you started. Knowledge is a GOOD thing.


_Quote »_
anyways im pretty happy right now, i mean 10 months ago i didnt have a car, didnt know how to drive, and i had no clue what was under the hood of any car..
so anyways feel free to share any thoughts and suggestions on what i should do with the installation process

If you didn't know anything about your car 10 months ago, and you just plunked down $500 for a turbo kit and are paying someone to install it, prepare to be very dissapointed and frustrated. If I were you I would get rid of that kit, save your money, read more and ask more questions and do it right, later. Paying someone to install a hacked up kit is going to cost you more in the long run.
I am not saying that someone can't turbo their car for $500 but it is usually the type of person who does their own work, knows what they are doing etc.
For starters, look for a post titled '200 hp the easy way,' that will go a long way to getting you started down the right path.
BTW, keep the 50mm manifold since you can usually sell those for a couple hundred $$.


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## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

yeah i've read the '200 hp the easy way' along with all the pages and all the threads on turboing and CIS.. and if i wait like you suggest its never going to happen cuz i dont have the resources here and where i park i cant even jack the car.. + its my only car and if i mess up i cant afford that to happen...
anyways sometimes i think its pretty easy..
correct me if im wrong :
ill have to take off the exhaust manifold and intake manifold and put the exhaust manifold and turbo .. and i guess ill have to cut off my current downpipe.. and then if needed i have to clock the turbo carefully so i dont damage it.. and then set up the piping.. and ill see if the TB i have will bolt right on to the short runner i have.. and ill have to figure out how to get the accelerator cable to work.. and ill have to install the w/g ? i guess the wastegate is the thing after the fuel rail pic..i have no idea how to set that up.. also how to tap the oil pan and that thing they use to get oil from the above the oil filter.. i dont know what they are called here to get them.. anyways also ill have to mount the intercooler right .. so its not much id do it all with pleasure but am i missing out on something ? tomorrow ill take the stuff and check if the piping will work out without modifications.. (cuz it was previously on a '99 seat cordoba) and in the end ill just fire it up (after removing the coil and cranking it so oil enters the turbo) and then take it down to a nearby exhaust shop to weld the DP .. do u think i can do that ? im willing to try if theres a good chance i can do it.. 
also: more importantly, with the 10psi the mechanic said he'd set it to.. and stock CR 9A with short runner how much hp (specify if crank or wheel) will it translate to ? cuz i want to know if its worth replacing CIS or not) if its only 190bhp ill just use my euroCIS + audi WUR or so!.. if its like 260bhp then i guess its worth it.. sorry i dont have info about the EFI but he didnt elaborate alot.. but the good thing is that they have a wideband o2 sensor


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## rossmc1 (Feb 29, 2004)

*Re: bought the 16v kit today (jamaicula)*

I was just going to type the same thing,what is that made from??if i was u i would bin it,and buy one,also u say there isnt a lot of play in the shaft if its ,i aint a turbo expert but i think it u have any where near 1mm play that would be to much,check if the play is just side ways,and not in and out the way.
What is the inlet manifold made from??have u checked it fits okay


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## TURBOPHIL (Jan 31, 2002)

*Re: (liquidtension)*

Dude, if this is your only car, yould better scrap that kit and keep the car NA, turboeing a car without a decent knowledge of turbo systems will become costly in the end. Your car will be sidelined mostly because of sh!t breaking because of bad tuning or just crappy stuff.
Don't want to discourage you, I kinda like the idea of doing things yourself, but at least have a solid idea of how things work.
My opinion is to get pieces that are known to work, a decent manifold, rebuilt turbo and a good fuel rail, thats at least a good foundaton to build on.
Still though, I have to give you props on how much you have learned in such a short time. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif










_Modified by TURBOPHIL at 5:14 AM 11-13-2004_


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## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

i live in beirut, lebanon (middle east)
so im never going to be able to get a "decent" fuel rail and such stuff.. i guess this is the best itll get unless i start shipping stuff over which will probably cost a fortune.. and keep in mind theres no minimum wage here (like u could get paid $1/hour) and i just started university and have no time for a job.. so this is pretty much my only solution.. plus keep in mind ive never ever seen a turbo vw.. everybody gets a golf 1 here and just removes everything to make it lightweight.. and then they put a 2.0 16v some p&p and cams and headers and then thats it... i had to search the whole web and all i could find was a guy called "nabilsx" on the vortex who was into turbo's and lived here.. so i immediately contacted him.. and i guess he's into this stuff for the same reason i am.. cuz of the vortex he learned about turbo's and fuel management.. so anyways u can see where im coming from so try to encourage me a little its pretty hard for me already after paying for a p&p and getting ripped off to spend my last $$ on this kit.. i know you're just being reasonable but support would be better in my situation.. anyways i think im going to pay that guy to do it cuz i found out a few stuff.. the short runner needs a abf lower intake manifold to bolt on .. and the piping.. isnt bolt-on i need a couple stuff.. also the throttle body bolting is different.. so i guess ill just do it and know that its going to be guaranteed to work..(thats what he said) anyways i guess i can just hope for the best
btw: the fuel rail is made of metal and sprayed purple :S ill take a few pics and post in a second


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## TAI-VW boosted Dubs (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (liquidtension)*

Liquidtension,I can totally understand where your enthusiasm comes from,and I would be the first one to suggest turbo for more power.........BUT I think you are taking it wrong.........nobody is trying to discourage you,they are trying to help you avoid a potentially costly mistake.....The first question to ask is ;can I afford to rebuild/replace a motor IF things go wrong? If you can,then go for it!
I say this because more than often (sometines you get lucky) inexpensive "junkyard setups" can be more costly and unreliable since you are depending on used parts,which can fail easily...... and sometimes questionable "tuning" which is putting your motor & transportation at risk.............
Boy,I am scared to think that if you paid that much for those parts,then I cannot imagine what a "$400.00,EFI conversion & turbo installation" would be like,quality wise and reliability wise...
You are a university student,so use yur LOGIC and not emotion and think of the consequences to your (presently) RUNNING car.......
I sincerely wish you the best of luck and you CAN make that stuff work,but HOW WELL? NOBODY KNOWS............but I sincereloy hope you get it rocking!Good Luck man.......


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## simon_mk2 (May 5, 2003)

*Re: (TAI-VW boosted Dubs)*

I just finished my turbo setup and got a impression, 
You don't need cost so much on doing turbo but do it rigorous any time. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## simon_mk2 (May 5, 2003)

*Re: bought the 16v kit today (liquidtension)*

Just like your situation, I live in Taiwan and there is no vw 16vt here.
So, i took half yaer to search any 16vt info, eight months to collect the right parts that i need and finally, only one week to make a 16vT engine born.
oh, before i did my 16vt, i had preparea a spare engine.


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## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (TAI-VW boosted Dubs)*

yeah i know what you mean.. even the guy i bought it off suggested i dont buy it and wait till i have more money and do it right.. but anyways i "feel" like things will work out though.. 
so when its hopefully running well ill update this post


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## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: bought the 16v kit today (simon_mk2)*

hehe good work http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif glad to see you're 16vt is making good numbers on the other post


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## simon_mk2 (May 5, 2003)

*Re: bought the 16v kit today (liquidtension)*

Thanks.








My 16vt works fine depend on so many 16vt guys help here.
I love here! you guys here are so kind.
Forgive me that my english not so good as you guys but i do my possible.


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## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: bought the 16v kit today (simon_mk2)*

yeah this forum is great !








also your english isnt bad at all http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## rossmc1 (Feb 29, 2004)

*Re: bought the 16v kit today (liquidtension)*

Before u spend more cash,ask the mechanic what efi he intend to put into your car and has he used it before,did u buy the kit from him?if so is he going to give u the lower section for the inlet?the ABF is only available in Europe on mk3 golf's and parts arent that easy to find(maybe in some Seats to)if u can find ABF parts u may find the fuel rail might be better than one u have,also not sure if Audi S2 are found where u are,if so there fuel rails can be easily modified to fit 16v,one u have may work fine just doesnt look to safe and the last thing u want is a failed fuel rail at 100mph http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
Did u see this kit running in the Seat,why did he remove it,what TB did he run
I aint discouraging u but i'd listen to what been said before u waste more cash,get more info out the mechanic before he does anything,the euro cis and 50mm inlet u could sell yourself,so the $400 is more like $700,if u hold off save some cash and learn as much as u can,u could easily put the parts on yourself,then maybe pay some one to tune it
Im in the UK and sell VW stuff,IM if u need anything and i'll try and help,postage shouldnt be too bad compared to US
that wasteagte bolts to the turbo,i think(looks like an internal wg)
Maybe worth trying to source a G60 loom ecu and sensors(maybe also the TB if it will fit)


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## TAI-VW boosted Dubs (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: bought the 16v kit today (rossmc1)*

I was also thinking Digi-1 as the best option,you just have to be able to put the hall sender in the distributor on the back of the head and synchronize it.........


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## TURBOPHIL (Jan 31, 2002)

*Re: bought the 16v kit today (TAI-VW boosted Dubs)*

With your enthusiasm, you might be ok to put your "kit" together, at least keep posting, someone here will guide you in the right direction. Most of the guys here build their own kits, at least the ones that I listen to. I have always said that the only way to truly learn is to build it yourself. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
The only problem is the fact that this is your only car.


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## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

these are some close-ups of the fuel rail i took this afternoon.. 
thanks for all the input everyone i appreciate it
im pretty pissed off tonight one of my drinking buddies ran his motorcycle into my parked car from behind and ruined my bumper and metal near the "VW" logo then he started kicking his bike and threw his keys away







so ill try to straighten the metal with a hammer from inside the hatch and hope for the best
btw, i bought the kit from a guy that installs standalone for the garage.. and the mechanic/owner there was the one who told me he wanted $400..
i think ill start the project on monday hopefully (if he has space in the garage) and i guess its his liability im pretty sure itll turn out alright cuz all the guy does is install turbo's i saw a lancia delta int. getting an upgrade and a evo VII and an alfa romeo and the guy's specialty is VW's and VAG stuff (audi..seat.etc.) so it should go fine... also they have the WBO2
so i know the guy knows his stuff .. i just have to call and see if the $400 includes EVERYTHING.. even down to the oil change..and TB and ABF lower mani..etc. 
hopefully in the future when i go back to california ill get a nice mk2 and another vw and then i can put that mk2 in the garage and work with it as much as i want like u guys do.. but right now its out of the question.. this was my original plan but i got some $$ together so you know things changed.. btw i spotted a '91 corrado at a junkyard it was at night and the owner said come tomorrow and i can see the engine bay.. but i think its a g60 cuz the vr6 didnt come in the 91 corrado's.. but i thought about it.. lets say digi1 will cost me $300.. then i need a nice chip $$$ (which the guy i bought the kit off told me he already has) .. 
but theres still the turbo installation.$$$+ tuning$$ and stuff.. so itll end up costing me way more.. than just paying $400 and getting it over with.. + if anything goes wrong he'll probably say "its the digi1 u got".. so if i do it for the $400.. its forsure... i pay $400 and i dont care.. in 10 days i want my car running 10psi and last.. u see ?
im SOOOO sorry for the long post


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## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: bought the 16v kit today (liquidtension)*

also is this normal: while driving around 120mph on a very smooth surface.. if i press the brakes slightly the whole car starts shaking like its falling apart.. especially the steering wheel feels like something has possessed it







if this is abnormal can you tell me how to fix it ? btw my suspension is below 12% of effectiveness (they did a report when i had to register the car) if its relevant..
edit: i think my foot is pressed on the clutch when i was braking (if that matters) and this happens everytime http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 


_Modified by liquidtension at 2:12 AM 11-14-2004_


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## fast_a2_20v (Jun 25, 2004)

damn. It is always good to get a car in proper mechanical shape before turbocharging. 
In your case, shocks, pads and rotors (probably) and a thorough inspection of the ball joints and bushings is a must. 
that fuel rail is borderline dangerous.


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## TAI-VW boosted Dubs (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (fast_a2_20v)*

This reminds me of that Aerosmith song...........with the lyrics "Livin' on the edge".............







Dam,I didn't know NA 16V's hit 120mph!!


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## Agtronic (May 14, 2001)

*Re: bought the 16v kit today (liquidtension)*

The shaking is your rotors heating up and warping. Make sure your wheel bolts are all torqued equal (at about 80-100 ft/lbs). If the bolts aren't all torqued the same amount, rotors tend to do that under hard braking, and hitting the brakes at 200 km/h is HARD BRAKING.
The kit looks very rough, but it will do the job. And yes, that fuel rail is borderline dangerous.


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## fast_a2_20v (Jun 25, 2004)

i would buy a fuel rail from ross or bahnburner or something and not burn my car to the ground, but thats just me. 
TAI-VW n/a 16v's will hit what 110 or somethign before they speed limit, but mine was still pulling up there... (i tore it down a few months ago i can't remember exactly how fast) 
but that brings up an interesting point if he's going 120+ the car is probably chipped with an N/A chip. better get that out of there for the turbo setup.


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## vdubmike2 (Sep 21, 2004)

*Re: (fast_a2_20v)*

yeah ditch that fuel rail and get one from bahnbrenner, and then if you know anyone that can do it cheap, get someone to fab you up some new piping, that looks so-so at best


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## vfarren (Sep 11, 2000)

*Re: (fast_a2_20v)*

If he didn't have pics I'd say he was a troll haha.
Dude, I think you are crazy to do what you are doing, but more power to you. Just make sure you have a spare motor ready and make sure you can put it back to NA easily if things go bad with the boost. I am always amazed at people's ingenuity, so maybe I'll be pleasantly surprised. Make sure you post your results when you are up and running.


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## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (vfarren)*

i dont follow .. what do you mean by "troll" (is it like "liar"?)
anyways the car is a 1988 KR (no cat, and basic cis) + a 2.0 16v swap with the kr cams and intake manifold(50mm) installed on the 2.0 16v.
rev limit is at 7200rpm. 3rd gear tops ~142km/h 4th gear is ~ 183km/h 5th i never really pay attention but a friend of mine told me we were going 200km/h and i looked at the speedometer and it was at ~190 and my foot had been off the pedal for a couple seconds so NA 16v's do 120mph








anyways why is the fuel rail so dangerous (i mean that guy had it on his car..) you mean you're scared it will break at the welding and fuel will be everywhere ? how would the fuel ignite to burn my car down though ? can anyone elaborate i cant seethe dangerous part there


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## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

anyways im checking out bahnbrenner as u guys suggested
EDIT: this is a pic of the oil line that came with the 'kit', just for kicks
































_Modified by liquidtension at 11:34 AM 11-14-2004_


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: (liquidtension)*

dude, 
the fuel rail is the least of your worries. if it doesnt leak, it will work. fuel rails are not anything special. it is ugly though!
the exhaust manifold looks like a welded mess. i seriously doubt it will last. seriously. i weld alot, and know about welding also, im not just saying this because it looks like crap.


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## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

well the guy did warn me that everything looked ugly as **** but he assured me everything works http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif anyways hold on for 10 days and we'll find out what happens


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## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: bought the 16v kit today (liquidtension)*

well, good news: i used sandpaper today on just about everything
fuel rail, short runner, i/c..piping
anyways i found out that the fuel rail is made of bronze and it was then dipped in gold coating (i guess to prevent rust) and then the guy painted it purple.. which is why it looks so ugly..
check the pics:

















so i guess thats the lebanese way of making fuel rails


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## vfarren (Sep 11, 2000)

*Re: (liquidtension)*


_Quote, originally posted by *liquidtension* »_i dont follow .. what do you mean by "troll" (is it like "liar"?) 

No, I am not calling you a liar. A 'troll' is usually someone who comes onto online discussion boards to stir up trouble by posting crazy and sometimes inflammatory messages.
Good luck with everything. If you get it to work right it will be a fun car for sure!


_Modified by vfarren at 2:14 PM 12-3-2004_


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## 89_16v (Apr 25, 2004)

*Re: (vfarren)*

this whole post sounds wayy too familiar








i tried to cheap out on everything doing mine, and all that happend was i sheered both sides off my #4 piston...








do everything right the first time ( i know its hard ) but do it. that copper fuel rail will NOT hold 50psi of fuel pressure, and the solder wont hold that well.
i made my own rail too, and it was sketchy..
i always had fuel leaking and then figured out that i had to put krimped ends on the fuel rail arms so that the injector "o" rings actually made a reliable seal...
get a bbm or Ross fuel rail, and do that at least the right way...
the turbo, yeah it will work.... have you found a downpipe flange for it yet? might have to get that custom made....


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## 89_16v (Apr 25, 2004)

*Re: (89_16v)*

ahh nevermind, i see the downpipe now.
keep that internal WG, easier to use, and you wont be running that much boost anywho...


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## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (89_16v)*

tadaaaaaaa
i give you the sanded-n-painted fuel rail:
i know its still ugly as hell but it's an improvement








-talked to the mechanic and tonight im giving him the car so tomorrow when it's cold he'll start working on it


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## fast_a2_20v (Jun 25, 2004)

"dude,
the fuel rail is the least of your worries. if it doesnt leak, it will work. fuel rails are not anything special. it is ugly though!
the exhaust manifold looks like a welded mess. i seriously doubt it will last. seriously. i weld alot, and know about welding also, im not just saying this because it looks like crap." 
i noticed that it looks like its stick welded to hell and back too... but the exhaust manifold won't explode and spray fuel everywehre burning his car to the ground. lol.


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## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (fast_a2_20v)*

well i know for sure i dont want purple piping and i/c 
so i painted red over the purple i/c. and i thought i didnt have any blue.. 
but it turns out i do 
so im painting the piping blue now and waiting for it to dry 
but i dont know.. i dont have alot of blue left 
and i want to re-do my valve head cover blue again 
and i brought these heat-resistant paint from california ...and they are nowhere to be found here..
bottom line, i dont have good taste..
should i make the piping blue and fuel rail as well ? and ic too ? im thinking of saving the bluecan and just doing the piping blue and then the fuel rail ill paint it black.. cuz i know that blue and red dont go along.. what do u think ? 
personally i wish i could make them all chrome-looking.. i tried sanding but on the piping its useless and not coming off.. 
and im bad with color-matching


















_Modified by liquidtension at 2:36 PM 11-15-2004_


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## mattw (Nov 25, 2000)

*Re: (fast_a2_20v)*

I guess I am too late, but you should at least try to do it yourself! You're going to pay that guy $500, then when the smallest thing goes wrong, you are going to pay him some more because you don't even know what he did in the first place. You sound like you are really getting to know your car well, so you should be able to tackle it.
Even though your kit looks a little "scary," it could work ok. Just be prepared to replace some things that might break right away, or a year from now.
Good luck! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

thanks man, well i really wanted to put it together myself.. not just for the $$-saving.. but for the satisfaction.. but as i said we dont have garages like you guys do in your homes.. if i were at california for sure id park it in a garage and use my dads car and then i could take as much time as i needed and asked a trillion questions here.. but i cant do that now.. so anyways im sure in a couple years when im in CA ill install a kit myself but for now it's just not going to happen
anyways, i gave the mechanic my car, and btw i painted the fuel rail black and piping blue in the end, and i decided to just give him the 50mm manifold and the rest of the NA stuff( they sell for $100 here) 
also, the mechanic seems fairly knowledgeable.. 
he knows about the exhaust cam mod, and knows that turbo's dont like overlap.. so he was saying he wants to take a look at my cams and if he finds its not good for the turbo he's going to swap in the stock cams.. but i thought the eurocams were ok with turbo's ? 
he said itll be done next saturday.. so ill be passing by everyday and checking up on the progress. ill post results soon!


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## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (liquidtension)*

went to the shop today, took couple pics, intercooler doesnt seem like its going to fit behind the bumper http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif so the mechanic said its going beside the radiator http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif ..
also, the short runner isnt going to be used, he said he's getting an ABF one or something similar (he said its better)








till now he attached the turbo manifold + turbo, removed CIS and battery and stuff, + tapped the oil pan and attached oil feed to the head and turbo
also. he checked the cams and said that they werent bad for the turbo (kr cams) so theyll stay in

























itll be done on saturday nov. 27


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## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (liquidtension)*

also on my way back from university i always look at this junkyard across the street while in traffic.. and they have these weird VW lights.. 
thought id take a pic of them maybe they are known.. they sort of look like the oettinger ones.. except there are two lines under the lights


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## rossmc1 (Feb 29, 2004)

*Re: (liquidtension)*

Do u know what the lights came from,they look like Zender grill kit,hard to see though,are u in a rhd country or lhd(i'd buy them if there RHD and they came from a Golf 1or 2)
Your car,if he isnt going to use the short runner,keep your own inlet dont swap for the ABF,that seems a bit mad,if u already have the 50mm inlet why would u want to put a smaller inlet on it,i think your mechanic is a bit of a chancer,tell him to keep the short runner and put your KR one back on,even if it going to cost u $100 more,if that is the case find out what the short runner fits,as if it was in a 16v seat already then what's the problem,sounds like to me he wants to keep the short runner and the KR,did he tell u any more about the efi??


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## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

yeah i was thinking the same thing.. im just going to wait till next saturday to see what the hell he is trying to do and ill ask him exactly why the short runner wont work as good as the one he's getting.. anyhow i dont like mechanics here.. but they are all like this... and im fed up with having to worry all the time so im just going to wait till saturday and try not to think about it
also, the grill has the VW logo in the middle ive seen a golf 1 with similar lights but they were smaller and different when the turbo is done i might drop by and get those lights cuz ive never seen a golf II with those lights here so itll be neat cuz all the golf II's have single rounded debadged grills + i guess its better if i go for the sleeper look since the I/C wont be showing.. 
just a question though,
how do you guys fit an intercooler behind the bumper (where theres an opening) theres this metal thing in front of the radiator so the FMIC wont fit there ..


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## BIHrocco (Aug 13, 2003)

*Re: (liquidtension)*

CUT IT


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## GeoffVR6 (Feb 16, 2002)

The fuel rail should be fine if it's aligned and soldered correctly. I have 8000 miles on my 1/2" L copper rail with no problems. When I was researching it before I made it I found this link: http://www.copper.org/applicat...5.htm
I don't worry about my rail leaking at all. Just make sure you carefully test it for leaks before you try to fire up the engine. From my expieriance the alignment of the 4 runners to the injectors is the key area to pay attention to when building one.


----------



## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (GeoffVR6)*

hey man how come you have such low numbers ? 
is that 231.4 crank hp or wheel hp ? if its crank i think at 12.4psi its pretty low.. what turbo are u using and intercooler and CR and what are u doing for fueling ? 
btw thanks for the link and advice... 4 more days to go till the car is done.. i just hope it wont be raining on saturday so i can have a nice test drive
i still need a boost and a/f guage, bov and mbc.. if you know a site that sells those and is cheap and ships internationally please post it here or send an IM.
thanks


----------



## GeoffVR6 (Feb 16, 2002)

*Re: (liquidtension)*

My #'s are at the wheels. Quick specs: T3/T04b, 23x9x3 Spearco, 3 ABA headgaskets, stock 9A block, stock PL head, Megasquirt DIY ECU, 650cc low-Z Holley injectors, etc. The two main reasons for my low #'s as I see it is that I need a more efficiant exhaust manifold and a free flowing exhaust system after the turbo. As far as a cheap BOV you can use a stock vw/audi one found on 1.8t's and 2.7t's. I wouldn't trust them past a couple years (I have replaced many that ended up with leaking diaphrams on customer cars) and I don't know maximum pressure they can handle. I picked up a cheap MBC from E-Bay. My A/F guage is the TechEdge 2A0 DIY WB with the LD01 display and a cheap WBO2 sensor from VW.


----------



## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re:*

nice http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif and thanks for the specs
anyways what do u think i should do for the BOV im using a t3 50 trim and 10psi i like the tial sound but i cant afford it for $220+shipping any alternatives ?we dont have lots of eclipses here but if i do find 1st gen dsm bov what does it sound like ? and what year should the eclipse be to be 1st gen.? (not good with *** cars)
also i guess i wont be using a mbc and as for the boost guage i met a guy today that knows a place that sells such stuff for cheap so ill check it out when i get my car unfortunately i wont be able to have a nice test drive on saturday since theres a big rainstorm coming








pics + updates on saturday if all goes well http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## GeoffVR6 (Feb 16, 2002)

*Re: Re: (liquidtension)*

I think that you should forget about BOV sounds for now and just get something that works for your setup. Once you get it working then change the parts out to make it how you like it. I first used a Bosch 06A-145-710-N for my first BOV and figured that you could find somthing like that for a cheap BOV ( I assume that that there are vw, audi, skoda, seat dealers by you that you can get one for less than US $40 )


----------



## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

alright ill look into that


----------



## BIHrocco (Aug 13, 2003)

*Re: (liquidtension)*

hows the progress??? any more pics???


----------



## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (BiGNeRm)*

pics will be up on saturday for sure if everything goes as planned so check back on saturday








as for the current progress i have no clue.. i dont have a car to check the garage and feel bad cuz of the whole short runner and fmic issue.. so i just dont feel like going there so im going to wait for saturday to come
keep in mind though if i never post here after saturday it means the fuel rail probably exploded hehe







j/k 
but seriously, i should really leave a fire extinguisher in the car now


----------



## rossmc1 (Feb 29, 2004)

*Re: (liquidtension)*

Hope it all works out remember to post and let us know how ya get on,and check out ebay item number 4506815563,u might find this handy j/k,and this is my stuff check my other auctions too,good luck and when u go to the garage to pick the car back up takes a few mates with u,and box his lugs if it aint puttin down 400hp http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (rossmc1)*

hehe







good one http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
anyways, 400hp ? i wish








more like 230bhp @ 10psi with this tiny turbo and stock CR(2l 16v)
anyways you know it depends of hundreds of variables and of course tuning... but i should be happy with it for now and its good to get used to the turbo feel
anyhow, im researching the bosch 710N BOV that was mentioned above.. i think im gonna get it also the bosch 110 sport valve came up and im reading about both now, http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif to the search feature.


----------



## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (fast_a2_20v)*

i called him today he said i have to wait till monday cuz it isnt done yet


----------



## simon_mk2 (May 5, 2003)

*Re: (liquidtension)*

be careful of boost with high cr when tuning(over 10:1)
just my little suggestion.


----------



## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (simon_mk2)*








thanks for the advice
it sucks when you get excited about something and it gets postponed




























http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
any advice/tips on driving it when its hopefully done ? a guy i met was telling me to avoid downshifting when theres traffic cuz his car just accelerated forward and hit the car in front of him







i think he forgot his foot on the gas but he said it was the turbo that caused it


----------



## GeoffVR6 (Feb 16, 2002)

*Re: (liquidtension)*

If it was postponed then it was for a good reason... your mechanic will tell you about it and I would like to know why also. Just hang in there. As far as driving just drive it like normal for the most part. Please just look ahead and think about what is ahead of you before you drop the hammer when you do get her out on the road.


----------



## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (GeoffVR6)*

well i passed by today, and found out whats going on, on saturday the car was under the knife of the EFI guy and almost everything is installed now. i took a look and he apparently used an ABF manifold in the end (which put a nice grin on my face) and there were 4 guys around the engine bay one of them was making this hole in the manifold and fitting a plug (i guess they were making the vacuum plug thing) and the reason i didnt get the car today was cuz the I/C wouldnt fit near the radiator in any manner and the mechanic ordered another i/c (used im guessing) and he's going to try to fit that when he gets it tomorrow cuz he doesnt want to start cutting metal to make this one fit(he said that would be the last resort) but he said it should be done tomorrow if the i/c and piping go as planned.. 
anyways contrary to my messy kit... his work looks extremely neat from where i was standing and it looks real nice (especially with the ABF sitting there all clean) 
i was real pissed two days ago but now that ive seen the work i feel SO relieved.. plus a guy i met today lives near the garage and i told him my car was there.. he was like "are you doing some extreme modding to ur car ?!!" i said "no just minor.." turns out this garage is veryyyyy well-known in the country as a high performance shop and when the rally championship starts here he always doesnt accept any cars cuz he already has rally cars booked.. so his garage is just into this kind of modding and i guess thats why everytime i go i see a caged evo7 and such cars being worked on so im real relieved cuz it looks like i went to the right place.. i guess thats why he wants $400.. 
i was wondering...i should probably attach the w/g vacuum line to the one from the manifold right ? and now on the compressor housing cuz its more accurate right ? well ill see what the mechanic does.. also what if i remove the vacuum line from the w/g what happens ? full boost ?


----------



## GeoffVR6 (Feb 16, 2002)

*Re: (liquidtension)*

It looks like it's coming together. As far as the wastegate, my turbo has a nipple on the outlet and I hooked it up there. My setup held 8 psi in the manifold with my .6 bar spring and no controller. I imagine that if you hook it up to the manifold instead of the turbo side then it would be regulated at that point. My point is that if you have a restrictive intercooler and put it at the turbo then the pressure in the manifold will be less than at the turbo. I attached mine at the turbo so I could get a faster responce time from the wastegate. I don't know how much that actually matters though as I never tried it the other way. I don't recomend driving the car without the vacuum line attached as the wastegate. It needs pressure on the bottom side of the diaphram to open it up at the spring rating assuming you have an external wastegate. A controller can lower this pressure and effectively raise the boost pressure above the spring rating. So, yes it will probably go full boost with no line attached if it is external. I'd have to look at an internal one to tell you how that would work and I don't recall which one you have.


----------



## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (GeoffVR6)*








well i went there and it was done but he said the boost is only at 0.1-0.2 bar cuz the clutch was slipping badly..
before i started the project i had noticed when shifting at the redline in 2nd gear the clutch was slipping in 3rd gear.. but i didnt really giv eit any importance.. well now at 0.1 bar whenever u punch it the clutch starts slipping








also, this is going to make alot of you guys laugh... but the damn fuel rail exploded (i wasnt driving it though) and the ABF manifold got really ugly now they fixed the fuel rail but i think im going to get a new one as soon as i can!! 
moreover the EFI is from a peugeot 205 turbo i think.. it says BOSCH on it though.. the injectors are yellow ones and he used a weird throttle body with tps so now the gas pedal feels weird.. CIS felt way better and simpler..
so anyways the idle was hunting .. and when i drove it it got worse and the car started to turn off but the guy was like drive it today and tomorrow we'll fix that after all the dirt and stuff are out of the system
also there was white smoke coming out of the exhaust and then it stopped and black smoke came out.. and then it was clean (my friend was tailing me) anyways i left and my car just didnt want to start anymore in traffic so i had to tow it back there with the help of my friend.. so the car is at his place now .. im going to change the clutch and put a new OEM one he said they go for ~ $140 and he'll change it for $40.. then ill go up with the boost.. but he was saying my engine isnt in a very good shape and that its not his reponsibility if i put it at 0.7 bar (10.~ psi) on stock compression.. so i dont know he was saying only like 0.4 bar or so but that sucks i would have left CIS also now he's talking about lowering compression and other **** and at firs the said 0.7 bar no problem ..







so anyways i guess i should have seen this all coming.. also the new water expansion reservoir is leaking again (my old one was and i bought a used one and its leaking again ..) so im going to buy a new one tomorrow
also ill ask him about new fuel rails.. cuz im getting really paranoid since it was leaking and they welded it again








thoughts and stuff are welcome.. sorry no pics but once its done they'll be up if only i had another car i wouldnt be so worried right now.. 
live and learn i guess


----------



## simon_mk2 (May 5, 2003)

*Re: (liquidtension)*

If you use the oem stock clutch, i think it will slip soon.
Lowing the cr if you can, because people always want more boost








Be care of fuelling things, they were some thing dangerous.


----------



## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (simon_mk2)*

well it turns out the starter motor is screwed up so an electrician is handling that now.. also ill try to fix the clutch problem but we need to get the car on the wideband before i add more boost..
i borrowed my friends '81 honda quintet for today i need to buy colder spark plugs and couple other stuff


----------



## Hardcore VW (Oct 9, 2001)

*Re: (liquidtension)*


_Quote, originally posted by *liquidtension* »_









That's sweet! Is that real bamboo?


----------



## KOOTER (Aug 13, 2003)

*Re: (Hardcore VW)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Hardcore VW* »_That's sweet! Is that real bamboo?

I would expect better from you


----------



## Hardcore VW (Oct 9, 2001)

*Re: (KOOTER)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KOOTER* »_
I would expect better from you









ahh come on,just some very light joking around,if I was being a real dick I'd ask if those ridges on the fuel rail were from when the dogs butt relaxed.


----------



## KOOTER (Aug 13, 2003)

*Re: (Hardcore VW)*

Just post your picture.Here I'll do it for you


----------



## Hardcore VW (Oct 9, 2001)

*Re: (KOOTER)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KOOTER* »_
I would expect better from you









You're absolutely right,I could come up with something better,thanks for pushing me to forge on!


----------



## KOOTER (Aug 13, 2003)

*Re: (Hardcore VW)*

I think those two need a woman,and I think I found the perfect one


----------



## TAIVW-boosted dubs (Nov 30, 2004)

*Re: (KOOTER)*

You guys rock!


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## KOOTER (Aug 13, 2003)

*Re: (TAIVW-boosted dubs)*

So you like the fat chicks huh?


----------



## rossmc1 (Feb 29, 2004)

*Re: (Hardcore VW)*

That's one of the funniest lines i've read in a while,and the bamboo wasnt bad either http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Liquid
I hate to say it but u were warned.
I do not know of any 205 turbo,i could be wrong.
The intercooler not fitting sounds like more crap,to palm u off with another IC,about the best part u had was the IC 
The ABF manifold is smaller than the 50mm u had,if it been ruined get him to put your 50mm back on
The water leaking from your expansion tank will not be the tank,there is an over flow built into them,u will probably find it leaking from that because off another problem,if not it will be the cap on the bottle(seals fail)
i was hoping to hear good news from u,that u collected it and wasted a MclarenF1 on the way home,but hope ya sort t out,if u dont get it running right soon,if i was u i'd rip it out andstart buying parts when u can afford too,and dont put anything on the car till u have every parts needed to do it right might take longer but at least ur car will be running,good luck


----------



## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (rossmc1)*

rossmc1 thanks for the support and everyone else too..
well i took the car today i fixed the fan problem myself it was one of the plugs that go into the thermostat .. it had green **** all over it so i replaced it.. so no more overheating problems now.. also i bought a nice cone airfilter and attached it.. the clutch was replaced and its better now but i couldnt really test drive it right it cuz there is unbelievable traffic today but i think itll do... the boost is set to 0.2bar for now till we make sure everything is ok (no overheating..fuel system is o.k. etc.) next week probably ill go for 0.6bar or so 
performance wise i didnt really see the highend hp cuz of the traffic.. the most obvious thing i noticed was great throttle response and the torque is very very very nice (lots of improvement there) i floored it in 2nd gear at a low rpm and the tires started spinning and i wasnt expecting that..
i didnt take any pics yet cuz i was stuck in the traffic for hours while buying the cone air filter.. and so i rushed home to eat i guess in a while ill go take pics for you guys but rest assured its all coming together now ill just save up and get a better fuel rail online..etc. make it pretty and safe


----------



## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (liquidtension)*

took some pics for you:
















































this is the distributor he used.. i dont know what its from but it has this thing that looks like the FPR on its head but its left unplugged and open to the atmosphere








drove it some more today.. the clutch is still slipping a little and i noticed its having a hard time at the high rpms.. also i found alot of oil near the air filter it must have came out of that hose that used to go into the CIS airbox..i guess thats what a catchcan is for ? anyways im using cold plugs too any ideas how come theres not alot of high end hp ? thanks and also, does the clutch need a little time to get into place ? i mean will the slipping go away soon or something ? thanks for any help


----------



## Hardcore VW (Oct 9, 2001)

Looks a little better now that everythings installed.
>>this is the distributor he used.. i dont know what its from but it has this thing that looks like the FPR on its head but its left unplugged and open to the atmosphere<<
That's for vacuum advance,I think that distributor is off a Saab.


----------



## KOOTER (Aug 13, 2003)

*Re: (Hardcore VW)*

That distributor could very well be off the pug that they robbed the injection off.
Looks pretty good considering.


----------



## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (KOOTER)*

the slipping is getting better i guess it needs some time to get into place or something


----------



## KOOTER (Aug 13, 2003)

*Re: (liquidtension)*

Your clutch will get better for a while,but it will never be right.You need to replace the clutch and make sure you replace all the seals and pushrod bushing in the transaxle.
Good luck with your project.
All you wanabe turbo guys need to take note to this guys project.He didn't do everything according to the book,but he did it.99% of you people will never get this far because you have to meet all the proper vortex standards.These standards most often result in not doing anything because you will not meet everyone expectations.
He did it.Most of the critical people here never will.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
OBTW your fuel rail sucks balls


----------



## killa (Nov 26, 2000)

*Re: (KOOTER)*

This kit is kinda ugly......

I like it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (killa)*

-clutch is getting better as i drive the car
-theres an exhaust leak http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif and the smell is killing me.. and so is the loud sound... i can see fumes coming out of manifold/turbo area but i couldnt pinpoint the exact location.. i asked the mechanic about it and he said its cuz of the new gaskets








anyways its really annoying..
monday im going to take it to an exhaust shop to check for leaks.. and maybe remove the middle muffler ?








(what do u recommend about the middle muffler.. ??)
i removed it once a long time ago but i hated the loss of torque so i put it back in.. but i guess its a different story now..


----------



## KOOTER (Aug 13, 2003)

*Re: (liquidtension)*

Take a peice of hose and stick one end in your ear and move the other around by the turbo.That will find your leak.


----------



## JamesGti1.8T (Feb 3, 2004)

*Re: bought the 16v kit today (liquidtension)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: bought the 16v kit today (KOOTER)*

aha ok ill try that
today i was planning on taking the car to an exhaust shop to check it out but i couldnt so ill probably do that tomorrow..anyways the car is blowing some black smoke sometimes (not sure if its black or blue/grey) and the idle is still hunting.. 
but whats pissing me off is that from 2k to 4k its really really fast(compared to before) but after 4k its like old times (with the 50mm manifold + kr cams) .. how come ? 
also something is weird i cant even hear the engine anymore like i used to in N/A .. all i can hear is the turbo spooling.. and at high rpms it sort of fades out .. so any advice would be helpful.. im planning on setting it at 0.5bar sometime this week im currently at around 0.1 bar (just over that) i should buy a boost guage this week too
i guess its either timing, boost leak, or fueling right ? cuz it be the exhaust leak causing this ? i should get a boost guage soon to see whats going on at high rpms.. also i might get an A/F and an o2 sensor (the spot is already on the downpipe anyways)
*and what do u recommend about the mid-muffler will i see some improvement or just sound ? cuz i dont want just sound..*
*thanks in advance*


----------



## KOOTER (Aug 13, 2003)

*Re: bought the 16v kit today (liquidtension)*

Sounds kinda rich A/F wise.I know nothing about the pug EFI your using,so I won't be able to help you.


----------



## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: bought the 16v kit today (KOOTER)*

drove it around with a buddy for 3 hours tonight... in 3rd 4th 5th gear the clutch isnt slipping at all anymore.. i didnt try it in 1st 2nd though..
anyways i noticed that my powerband is from 2k to ~4-5k no matter what gear im in even 4th and 5th the car pulls and u can feel some torque in those gears too.. but i noticed when it hits 5k or so it gets pretty slow (as if old times) but when u punch it in 5th it gets to 180km/h so fast i didnt believe my eyes when i looked at the speedometer







anyways i should get a boost guage to see whats going on after 5k ..
anyhow, my question:
in the MAF systems.. what could cause the idle to keep bouncing ? like what are the stuff that can be adjusted ? like in basic CIS there was the CO% and idle screw .. throttle valve and timing thats about it..
but in the MAF EFI's what is adjusted ? im using the throttle valve to raise the idle a little cuz i dont have an idle screw(but the mechanic said he's going to try to integrate one for me) anyways i dont want to play with the timing and advance to get the idle up it cuz he might tell me i screwed things up or something if it detonates... 
i saw him take the cap off the MAF and there were like these clocks or something that he adjusted.. also theres a thing that looks like the idle mixture of CIS on the top of the MAF but it uses a bigger hex .. whats that for ? 
im going to research about MAF's tomorrow but im just wondering now.. i guess ill research and then ask questions later but if anyone feels like helping out now go ahead i know i should be more specific about the EFI but im pretty sure nobody has a peugeot fuel system cuz i remember when i was in cali i never saw a single peugeot/renault... there and nobody had heard of them
but dont most MAF efi's have the same general stuff ?
thanks


----------



## mattw (Nov 25, 2000)

*Re: (KOOTER)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KOOTER* »_All you wanabe turbo guys need to take note to this guys project.He didn't do everything according to the book,but he did it.99% of you people will never get this far because you have to meet all the proper vortex standards.These standards most often result in not doing anything because you will not meet everyone expectations.
He did it.Most of the critical people here never will. 

Amen. Boost should be fun. Too many people make it about a sign-up sheet and a mail-order list...


----------



## H2Zero (Apr 25, 2003)

*Re: (liquidtension)*

j/k you were right to say it looks good.... when I first say the parts you got I was very skeptical but it turned out well... Nice Rims (miglia 100 I presume) I have the same ones..... I would love to know more. NO STACK GASKETS?


----------



## autocross16vrocco (Jan 17, 2003)

*Re: (mattw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mattw* »_Amen. Boost should be fun. Too many people make it about a sign-up sheet and a mail-order list...

again i agree.. i thought it was haggard looking at first, and still is.. but at least it is working and he is driving the crap out of it.. better than most of the talkers on here


----------



## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (H2Zero)*

i ran some searches but no luck yet... all of them say "clean the TB and ISV" mainly..
but what COULD be causing my problem ? 
i dont have an ISV, and no O2 sensor
how come it keeps bouncing... and then stalling ?
could it be the exhaust leak ? any insight would be helpful.. ill chekc out the TB today but please pitch in


----------



## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

i just discovered while searching that the little 7mm hex screw on the MAF housing is to richen the A/F mixture (clockwise to richer and anticlockwise to make it leaner) like in cis and the idle mixture inside the box
is that right ? or some misinformation ?
please help me out


----------



## Slytle (Apr 28, 2002)

*Re: (liquidtension)*

okay... here we go. 
The little canister on the distributor is for vacuum advance. If you leave it unplugged you will be running a flat timing advance curve.
Your "Mechanic" is robbing you blind. He stole your 50MM manifold and your short runner manifold and gave you a hacked up ABF manifold. He also stole you intercooler and gave you some other manifold instead.
Your "mechanic" is also obviously lying to you. Your exhaust leak is not "because of the new gaskets". New gaskets would not leak. He needs to avoid making excuses and fix the leak. 
Hopefully your "mechanic" will follow through and get the car running properly. Its their fault for agreeing to install that ghetto fabbed kit. I dont know any mechanic that would agree to install a kit like that. Its guaranteed to be back in for repairs every two days.
The lack of power after 5k rpms is the wastegate opening. The power isnt decreasing but just flattening out. This is normal for such a low boost setting. Unfortuneately, your motor is stock/high mileage and any more boost will DEFINATELY ruin your motor and clutch.
This car is your daily driver? You might want to consider buying a new daily driver.


----------



## rossmc1 (Feb 29, 2004)

*Re: (liquidtension)*

hate to say it but got to agree with above the guy(mechanic)is a shady man,just keep taking it back to him till it runs right,also ask him for the ABF fuel rail,since he took the 50mm.
Also see u mentioned peugoet/renault,could the efi system have been Renualt insted of Peugeot,if so i'd say its from a Renault 5GT Tutbo(or maybe even the earlier 5 turbo)the Gt T was a 1.3L,what to do is check out the efi parts and try and get a part number fom it,this way u might even be able to get some info about it,ask the mechanic what car it came from,get an answer from him and at least u can search appropriate sites for info.
The exhaust leaks i hate to say,but i'd bet there coming from the exhaust manifold,as pointed out earlier looked a bit dodgy,make the mechanic fix this,reweld his welds,and if he tells u it's down to gaskets well ask him to replace them and fix them if there leaking.
Keep taking the car back to him,he scammed u and he know it http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
What is the IC he fitted


----------



## 85roccoZ400 (Jan 27, 2002)

*Re: bought the 16v kit today (liquidtension)*


_Quote, originally posted by *liquidtension* »_drove it around with a buddy for 3 hours tonight... in 3rd 4th 5th gear the clutch isnt slipping at all anymore.. i didnt try it in 1st 2nd though..
anyways i noticed that my powerband is from 2k to ~4-5k no matter what gear im in 

Liquidtension you do realize that a clutch takes about 500 miles or so to break in right!! This could be a problem right there I bet the clutch slips still because the clutch never go seated right because I bet from the day you put it in you have beaten the sh*t out of it.. You probably heated the clutch up the first time you got in it to much and now it slips more than a new clutch should. 
Anyway just though i would add that in there because I'm sure this has something to do with the clutch slipping.


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## VWTornado (Jan 16, 2001)

I've sh!t things that looked better than that manifold and fuel rail.


----------



## KOOTER (Aug 13, 2003)

*Re: (VWTornado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VWTornado* »_I've sh!t things that looked better than that manifold and fuel rail.

Why do you care enough to post something like that?Whats your purpose? http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## BahnStormer202 (Nov 20, 2001)

*Re: bought the 16v kit today (85roccoZ400)*

I dont think he changed the clutch..


----------



## jmvar (Nov 19, 2001)

Any updates on this project? How is it running? Hope everything turned out well....


----------



## rossmc1 (Feb 29, 2004)

*Re: bought the 16v kit today (BahnStormer202)*

He said earlier he did change it.


----------



## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (jmvar)*

-no more slipping at all in 3rd 4th 5th (havent tried 1st 2nd full throttle cuz i was trying not to beat on the new clutch the whole time)
-rebuilt the starter coil with original BOSCH parts
-Fuel rail is giving me problems so im getting another 1 made (most likely modified audi 4cyl FR / some other 4cyl FR)
i was going to buy a new one online but i guess it cant wait...
yesterday i ordered "Maximum Boost" from b & n http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
cant wait to receive it
and im checking sites to order a useful a/f & boost guage for around $35 each so if u know any sites u know what to do.. all i could find were autometer blitz greddy.. cheapest one is for $90 and by the way whats the halman BC's site ? whenever i search vortex for BC info i get "halman BC" i tried searching google for it numerous times with no luck.. i want to buy a mbc from them or i mguessing they are not a company and its a type of BC ? anyways just give me the site ill do the rest









next turbo project will probably be an extremely gutted rabbit with an aba16vT with a t3/t4 (done right with a rebuild and tranny clutch lsd etc.) hopefully ill be more experienced and be able to do all of the work/welding by myself after working and saving $$. of course all this is after im done studying mechanical engineering (still a sophomore) .. i screwed up a whole semester by missing tests and classes cuz of this turbo project








i really feel like owning a clean corrado though.. 
they look so damn good http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif too bad i dont have the $$

edit: (typos)


_Modified by liquidtension at 11:55 PM 12-13-2004_


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## 85roccoZ400 (Jan 27, 2002)

*Re: bought the 16v kit today (rossmc1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rossmc1* »_He said earlier he did change it.

Correct I knew I wasn't the only one that read that. Thanks man...
So any updates as of late I'm interested and seeing how everything turned out. You have made it good progress which most people don't every make.
So post us some new infomation if you read this


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## rabidroco (Jul 20, 2001)

*Re: bought the 16v kit today (85roccoZ400)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif for making it work. what kind of intake mani was the orginal one in that pic?


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## rossmc1 (Feb 29, 2004)

*Re: (liquidtension)*

ABF fuel rail,might be better or even a 1.8T or S2,i got a S2 on german ebay for $30 brand new,so u should be able to get something useable cheaply,or get one in the classifieds on here
I wouldnt have minded knowing what the first inlet manifold u had was ?and if u got any part number from the ECU was it a renault or Pug,and how's it running http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## ValveCoverGasket (Mar 20, 2002)

*Re: (liquidtension)*


_Quote, originally posted by *liquidtension* »_and im checking sites to order a useful a/f & boost guage for around $35 

summit makes some decent digital gauges for less than $30 a peice IIRC


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## the_mad_rabbit (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (liquidtension)*

Wow, not bad man. $500, its sorta ugly, but as long as it does the job its all good. Makes me wonder what ppl will think when I start posting my turbo progres when i've only paid about ~400 for my 16vt setup WITH the engine


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## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (the_mad_rabbit)*

FR is done.. couple other touch-ups too.. and i dont know what exactly the mechanic did but it very much likes to go more than 5k now and he said the boost is now a little more than 0.1bar i think its cuz there used to be a little leak in the manifold i noticed (there was this bolt that went inside but it was shaky and stuff) and wanted to tell him about it but i was always forgetting.. so he saw it by himself and removed the bolt and covered it up so i guess thats why i was going back to NA power over 5k but now its fixed http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
heres a pic for views.. ill drive it tonight and see what its like ( too much traffic right now) 








its far from done though im still going to polish the manifold and clean everything up.. and repaint the whole piping.. clean some more etc. also i still have to fix the exhaust leak and make a 2.5" exhaust at some shop (also going to up the boost to around 0.4-0.5bar soon) but i want to get those boost/af gauges first


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## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

got a new oil line which is SS braided with an adapter too http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (liquidtension)*

well i finally got a boost gauge, its nothing fancy just a normal pressure gauge bought for $10.. i attached it to the line going to the FPR from the manifold using a T-connector and a hole was made in a rubber thing in the bay to get it into the interior of the car (i can get pics if anyone needs them) .. and the cellphone holder was used to hold it.. its pretty ghetto but its a temp solution for $10
but something very bizzare is going on.. when i first go WOT, the gauge hits 5-6 PSI, then as the rpms go up the boost goes down and ends up around 1-2psi .. what could be causing this to happen ?


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## 89VWdieselGolf (Feb 22, 2004)

*Re: (liquidtension)*


_Quote, originally posted by *liquidtension* »_but something very bizzare is going on.. when i first go WOT, the gauge hits 5-6 PSI, then as the rpms go up the boost goes down and ends up around 1-2psi .. what could be causing this to happen ?


ohh i dunno, your cheap ass boost gauge....man, i've heard of "junkyard specials", but this is over kill.......


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## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (89VWdieselGolf)*

89VWdieselGolf http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
well since im getting some IM's from people asking for updates i thought id update the thread:
well basically the car is running great no problems whatsoever.. it fires up right away.. i get wheel spin through 1st 2nd and a tiny bit of 3rd gear.. and when i floor it sometimes it will start to drift by itself to the right (i think its called torque steer) so i always have to compensate but its a real fun car inside the city and on the highway as well
*upgrades*: 
-well i went to the exhaust shop and made a 2.5" exhaust with no cat and two very small resonators so its pretty loud but as opposed to NA cars i gained torque instead of losing it... and turbo spools better too
-i also fixed the leaks between the turbo and DP and manifold.
-also i bought and installed a fuel pressure gauge to use with the weber adj FPR .. it was a bitch making the "T" not leak fuel (thank you teflon!)
















-i also made a ghetto mbc(bleed valve style) to go with my ghetto setup ..
now this is a little hilarious looking
i was so excited it was sunday and no stores closed so i used a spare one we had for a normal bathroom sink..









lol but it turned out it was leaking from the handle so the next day 
i tried a hardware store and bought this:










then i made a nice metal thing at home to hold it to a screw coming from the engine bay .. its not fancy or anything.. first time i work with metal so i was happy with myself


























so i hooked it up and it worked great.. i was holding boost great.. i got it up to 6-7psi but i upped the fuel pressure as well ...but im driving it daily with 5psi with no problems 
i havent dived into the engine bay for a while now cuz my back is killing me ..+ i dont want to screw things up when i just started a new semester 
i saved up some money and in summer im going to 
stack 2 ABA HGs 
t3/t4
smt-6 
wideband
good intercooler and piping
lsd
bov cuz i get alot of compressor surge every time i let off the throttle 
and run 17psi and clean up the engine bay and make it clean

btw for all the people such as 89VWdieselGolf ... i dont appreciate your input at all.. i think you are in a different boat than i am .. I dont care whether it looks or sounds COOOOOOOOOOOL ... and im not into showing off to compensate for my "little" issues ...im into having fun with my VW and into functionality before looks.. and this is a technical forum.. so dont you think you're in the wrong forum ?

if horse **** would give me extra ponnies then id put it in my engine bay ..








btw its not like im a cheap-ass on my car.. i just didnt expect so much problems to come up ...so i couldnt afford a nice gauge and stuff in the end!
no problem im not the kind of guy that gets pissed at things like this especially since it all turned out well and im happy with the results


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## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (liquidtension)*

took the manifold off and the valve cover and repainted everything.. painted the manifold black too and i cleaned up the engine bay with a friend of mine. found a boost leak in the weldng and had it all rewelded before painting it
















cant wait till summer to lower CR and upgrade


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## killa (Nov 26, 2000)

*Re: (liquidtension)*

the smt will do your setup justice, did u talk to nabil about that yet?


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## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (killa)*

yeah i talked to him 
i noticed that the residual fuel pressure is going down real fast after i put the stuff back together.. it used to go from 3bar and stay at 2.5bar now as soon as i turn the ignition off it's going down to 0bar.. i checked the fuel line and fuel rail and injectors.. they arent leaking fuel and the car is driving like normal weird eh
btw Paul i did a run and pulled the spark plug it was brownish


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## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (liquidtension)*

thought id update the thread for people who search the archives, 
i stacked 2 ABS headgaskets, turns out there are no ABA's here there are the ABF's you all know and the ABS (2.0 8v) but its the same as the ABA 
broke the tranny (stripped 2nd gear) cuz of driving like an as*hole last month (boost-happy in 1st and 2nd gear)
broke the exhaust manifold flange where the turbo sits ..couple months ago, got it fixed ..(loud exhaust + ticking nosie)
loose nuts on the flange made my life hell for a couple weeks got it fixed (weak performance and it sounded like u put a plastic through a spinning fan)
got a BOV for $75 but its working 
painted rims black myself cost me $4
got single rounds grill and other stuff
fuel pump went out on me ( 1 year old only) (stuttering while cruising .. weak performance..etc. even though the FP gauge read 3bar)
i received the 440cc/min injectors Scott sent (great guy to deal with)
over-all the car is running good right now no problems .. im going to run more boost with the #42's soon..
when the car isnt running its a piss-off cuz it would have run for ages if it was still stock .. but when its running i dont regret turboing it at all http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
pics: 









































currently looking around for one of these (e30 325)
ill either leave it stock, or swap a modded 745 turbo engine in there.. 
once i get used to the RWD or ill continue the gti project and have the e30 as a daily driver
_Modified by liquidtension at 1:48 PM 8-13-2005_


_Modified by liquidtension at 1:50 PM 8-13-2005_


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## rossmc1 (Feb 29, 2004)

*Re: (liquidtension)*

Glad to see u got a fuel rail in the end,and looks like it turned out well(u cant be doing to bad if your braking gearboxes),i wondered how u got on and glad u posted up.
If i was u i'd buy either another 16v mk2 and keep it standrad as a daily driver(it handy(read cheap) running two cars with same engines,but if u want a change then the E30 r nice.And keep the 16vt and finish it off,get standalone and all the other bits u want,no point quitting just as its getting fun http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
And if u have a std 16v,when u blow the gearbox apart in the t,then u will have a handy spare


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## liquidtension (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (liquidtension)*

after almost 2 years since i started the thread, i thought i'd post a couple words hoping that it'll do some good,
i just want to say that i finally get what everybody was talking about, and i wish i had taken the advice.








BUT i don't regret going for the project AT ALL. of course id do it all different if i could go back in time..but ive gained so much experience, collected so many spare parts/tools, and so much confidence when it comes to doing jobs on cars .. cuz i had to rely on myself to fix the vw everytime another cheap part failed.. (for example i recently changed the clutch myself)
btw i ended up getting an e30 m3 almost a year ago, but a built up 745 turbo or euro m3 3.2L 6speed is going in real soon since i spun a bearing and damaged the crank of the S14 engine. (purists: suck my balls)
ill have to sell the VW soon to help fund the swap on the e30,
but expect a "just finished building a vr6 turbo" thread someday 
im gonna miss this particular mk2 so much though















so in conclusion:
Turbo's ROCK, but dont go cheap at first, get quality parts, or else itll cost triple in the long run and listen to what others tell you! the guys here know their sh*t
i cant stress this enough, *DONT GO CHEAP ON A TURBO PROJECT* (no matter how much you think you might get lucky and get away with it ...sorry it's just not going to happen, or maybe its just that im so damn unlucky







)
goodluck to everyone in their F/I projects and thanks for all the help i got


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