# Trailer Hitch installation - Done



## yul m6 (Nov 22, 2009)

I finally managed to finish the installation of a hitch and electric kit on a 2010 Canadian Tig. This forum and the Vagcom forum were a huge help. I'll try to summarize the experience for those who want to do this project.
Parts
1- Installation kit 5n0055204NA 375C$ after a 50$ discount from my dealer. Found 5n0055204N at 280US$ on the internet, but decided to go with the more recent NA version. Kit includes an electronic module, a Y harness, a 7pin/7pin Pollak connector with a flap cover, several screws, and the crappiest instructions I've ever come across.
2- Receiver Hitch, I got the 90$ 2" draw tite from etrailer.com, they also carry a 1-1/4" for 60$. These hitches attach directly to the bumper cross member with four bolts, but you will only find them if you search the etrailer site for 2009 Tig. Under the 2010 Tig they only show a generic hitch that attaches to the frame.
3- A 7pin to 4pin adapter from Canadian Tire 9$, also available at u-haul etc... Do not buy the VW part, it retails for 69$
Installation
1- Cut the bumper cover with a box cutter. It is already pre-scored.
2- Attach the receiver with 4 supplied bolts and torque to 40 ft-lbs.
3- Unclip the existing plug underneath the bumper by removing the gray clip. The Pollak adapter connects to this plug.
4- Remove the sill panel and the left side panel in the trunk. Remove the black plastic box that holds the jack, and the sound insulation underneath. There are two connectors, one red and one black that fit the electronic module. Fix the elctronic module with the supplied screws and nuts and reassemble the panels.
5- Underneath the steering column, very close to the obd connector, there's a loose blue connector and two black ones connected together. Unclip them, and the Y harness goes there, and there is only one way it will fit: blue to blue and each black to a black.
Coding
Using a vagcom interface, the first thing to do is to register the trailer module. Thanks to Uwe for his help here are the steps:
[Select]
[19-CAN Gateway]
[Installation List]
Scroll down the list until you see 69-Trailer.
Check the box next it.
[Save Coding]
The next step is to code the module to NA region, very well explained in
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...84276
I did not do any further coding, tested the trailer lights, they work perfectly. 
I love this forum....

_Modified by yul m6 at 7:32 AM 2-24-2010_


_Modified by yul m6 at 8:17 AM 3-5-2010_


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## LoneRanger! (Jul 23, 2005)

*Re: Trailer Hitch installation - Done (yul m6)*

awesome info- http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Lordboost (Dec 31, 2005)

*Re: Trailer Hitch installation - Done (LoneRanger!)*

Thanks for sharing neighbor


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## shuko (Jul 24, 2007)

Thank you so much. I was going to start a thread to ask what parts were needed and where they install.
Awesome!


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## Transfer (Jun 16, 2009)

This needs to be added to FAQ.


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## CADDY82LX (Sep 9, 2009)

*Re:*

A big thank you. I am going to print this one out and put it in the owners manual. Not ready to tow anything yet but may want to down the road a few years.
2010 Wolfsburg


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## 2ndwatchungmtnman (Feb 16, 2010)

*Re: Trailer Hitch installation - Done (yul m6)*

nice! and nicely done with the details here. Uwe is a really excellent individual. So Just How long did it take to get the module from the dealer? I ordered one from an online well know (Vortex sponsor) VW,Audi,BMW part retailer that had both part #s and said they could only get the N version so I ordered on 2/4/10, as of yesterday, they couldn't say when I would get it, so I am demanding my money back. The sales rep said it should be no big deal to get my money back. their price was 305$ but we know they are liars now, and could have said 200 for that matter. Hell I would order from Montreal if you gave me that dealers name. What really surprised me is that they said there were no N modules in the USA "parts hub"







are they kidding or what







I guess he had no use for even looking into NA,


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## sixandeightstringer (Nov 21, 2004)

*Re: Trailer Hitch installation - Done (2ndwatchungmtnman)*

They may just be on backorder; Many months ago, I ordered one, probably from the same place, and got it within days.
I sell things online myself; often we're at the mercy of our distributors, who tell us they'll meet a deadline - and then continue to push it back, again and again, leaving us with our foot in our mouth (and our palms in our faces).


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## 2ndwatchungmtnman (Feb 16, 2010)

*Re: Trailer Hitch installation - Done (sixandeightstringer)*

Hear that....you are so right...So they credited me today, but they said the part showed up anyway, very mysterious. Then went to my local dealer and got it for $320+tax and the warehouse is in NJ and they only had 3 in stock part ...NA, which I confirmed at another dealer in PA.


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## yul m6 (Nov 22, 2009)

It took two days for the dealer to receive from VW's central parts warehouse.
Also you might want to order a few of those plastic clips that hold the trunk panels in place. They're supposed to unscrew with a hex key and pull out, but I got a couple that were probably overtightened, had to pull them loose with pliers.


_Modified by yul m6 at 7:31 AM 2-24-2010_


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## LoneRanger! (Jul 23, 2005)

*Re: (yul m6)*

refrencing step 4:
4- Remove the sill panel and the left side panel in the trunk. Remove the black plastic box that holds the jack, and the sound insulation underneath. There are two connectors, one red and one black that fit the electronic module. Fix the elctronic module with the supplied screws and nuts and reassemble the panels.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
how do you get the left side panel off?







I did the reciever hitch install last night on the wifes Tig and went with a frame mounted hitch- I assesed the bumper frame and deemed it unappropriate for our towing.







I droped the exhaust a bit and got everything bolted up no problem. I undid that connector while I was under there, and pulled everything out of the trunk area but since I didnt have the electrics from VW (thursday) I had no need to go further. just looking for a heads up-
L.R. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## yul m6 (Nov 22, 2009)

*Re: (LoneRanger!)*

I have the instructions to remove the sill and side panels in a PDF file, but it seems I cannot upload it here. Send me your email and I will send them to you.


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## LoneRanger! (Jul 23, 2005)

*Re: (yul m6)*

Thanks for e e-mail!
Rob


_Modified by LoneRanger! at 12:39 PM 3-4-2010_


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## adg44 (Aug 2, 2000)

*Re: Trailer Hitch installation - Done (yul m6)*

added to FAQ


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## themulle (Mar 15, 2010)

*Re: (yul m6)*

I have just gotten the hitch, Draw Tite class III, E-Trailer part 75658, and want to put it and the wireing in my tiguan. I think that the "PDF" file for the removal of the side panels would be off great help. There seems to be NO information out there regarding the VW module and if, by installing it, it gives you trailer stabilation. My dealer knows nothing, its a whole void out there on this. I went to the german VW website and they rate the same car at 1500 kg in germany (approx 3500lbs) and other countries. Is the lower US rating an actual mechancal difference in the cars, or is it just legal BS!!!!!!!!! If you could send that PDF to me I would be most gratefull. Thanks. Roger


_Modified by themulle at 9:49 AM 3-15-2010_


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## yul m6 (Nov 22, 2009)

*Re: (themulle)*

I can confirm that the module operates the lights and will also detect a burnt out or missing bulb. I remember reading somewhere that to enable stabilisation, the engine or the ABS module needs to be coded which I did not do.
As for the weight rating the consensus that this is a legal issue.
I sent you the pdf files. Hello moderators, it would be great if I can post them in this thread.


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## sixandeightstringer (Nov 21, 2004)

*Re: (yul m6)*

I'd love to have that PDF too, if you'd be so kind. Thanks!


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## TXTiguan (Dec 3, 2008)

*Re: (yul m6)*

Did they drop the tow rating in Europe on the 2010 models? iirc, the 2009 Tigs in Europe had a tow rating of 2200 kg's (roughly 4200 pounds). Here, the 2009 Tig has a tow rating of 2200 pounds. Personally, I thought it was a translation error that VW America did converting the tow rating from kg's to pounds, but that is only a theory. just my .02 cents worth
TXTiguan


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## duncan1968 (Mar 9, 2010)

*Re: (TXTiguan)*

In Oz we have a 2010 Tig tow rating of 2500kgs (5500lbs) but only a ball weight rating of 100kgs (220lbs), so maybe the NA rating can only be 10 x ball rating.
Dunno, I know nothing about NA car design regulations, so take this with a pinch of salt. Just an idea.


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## NZTIGUAN (May 23, 2008)

*Re: (TXTiguan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TXTiguan* »_Did they drop the tow rating in Europe on the 2010 models? 
TXTiguan

No, in fact it's UP on some models to 2500 kg !!


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## kleinbus (Sep 9, 2008)

I wonder if the lower rating reason is the higher speeds and irresponsible drivers here is NA








For example, In Europe most of countires weigth of trailers without brakes is 750kg = 1650 lbs (heavier with hydraulic surge brakes) and max trailering speed is 80km/h = 50 mph, brave may try their luck and go up to 85 km/h = 53 mph. Faster than that and you find blinking lights on your tail and get hefty ticket...

Here is NA I see people flying by 75 mph and faster with their trailers, few times I have seen "something" connected to vehicle hitch, something without lights and fenders and generally speaking junk I would dare not connect to my hitch.


_Modified by kleinbus at 5:35 AM 3-19-2010_


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## Straz85 (Sep 2, 2003)

*Re: (kleinbus)*

Do all Tiguan's come with the actual plug pre-wired?








I installed my hitch for my new bike rack today and saw that, I was hoping I was somehow luckier than the rest and mine was pre-wired and now I could tow


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## kleinbus (Sep 9, 2008)

Yes that is NA pre-wiring "second loop" as there is actually two wire harnesses.
One comes from front to trunk and second is from trunk to hitch.
Pre-wiring means there is just wire harness BUT THERE IS NO POWER!! so it always needs the control box and Y-split connector (included to control box package) that goes to spot above the drivers pedals.


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## etig (Sep 5, 2009)

*Re: (kleinbus)*

The lower rating is because the US has too many lawyers and a culture of entitlement if you do something dumb. 
example: idiot tows big trailer and crashes into someone. The victim sues the idiot, the idiots car manufacturer, the idiots trailer manufacturer, the idiots tow hitch manufacturer, the tow ball manufacturer and anyone else they can find. plus the idiot then sues the car manufacturer, the trailer manufacturer, etc. 
I think the car manufacturers got sick of 7 figure settlements and decided to be overly cautious on ratings.


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## DT EXP (Jun 15, 2007)

So is this the kit we need?
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volks...51913/


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## kleinbus (Sep 9, 2008)

*Re: (DT EXP)*

NO NO NO (that would dublicate your current harness)
The one you need is from VW shop and it is simple black plastic box that haves 2 connectors there the cables goes.
Do "hitch" search and there is few posts showing the VW part number


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## Straz85 (Sep 2, 2003)

*Re: (kleinbus)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kleinbus* »_Yes that is NA pre-wiring "second loop" as there is actually two wire harnesses.
One comes from front to trunk and second is from trunk to hitch.
Pre-wiring means there is just wire harness BUT THERE IS NO POWER!! so it always needs the control box and Y-split connector (included to control box package) that goes to spot above the drivers pedals.


That's what I figured. Wishful thinking I guess


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## bamatide (Apr 22, 2010)

Has anyone tried the "Upgraded Circuit Protected Modulite with 4 Pole Harness and Hardwire Kit - Includes Testers" part 119176KIT from Etrailer.com? Would this work in place of the expensive installatin kit 5n0055204NA?


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## .:Tig:. (Jan 25, 2009)

*Re: (kleinbus)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kleinbus* »_
The one you need is from VW shop and it is simple black plastic box that haves 2 connectors there the cables goes.
Do "hitch" search and there is few posts showing the VW part number 

People are saying that this part is well over $300. Is there any way I can make this part? I am somewhat talented when it comes to electrical wiring. If the part is just wires and connectors, I don't see why I can't make it.


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## sixandeightstringer (Nov 21, 2004)

*Re: (.:Tig:.)*

Ugh. This subject has been covered ad nauseum.
The >$300 part is a *computer module*. _Not _just a "wiring box" that you can build yourself. 
The computer module provides the specific "logic" for those who are towing and adds functionality that is not in the ECU of non-equipped Tigs; it adds the sway control function, extends alarm and "bulb out" functionality to the trailer, etc.
If you really want to tow, just bone up and shell out the 300 clams. If you're putting a hitch on to mount a bike carrier, don't.


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## Exaran (Feb 22, 2005)

For anyone who has used a non-VW receiver: Where did you mount the 7-pin connector?

From what I can tell, the VW receiver comes with a plate that it mounts to... I got a Draw-Tite one and am not sure where I can rig the connector without it looking ghetto


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## D-Caf (Mar 22, 2009)

Right now mine is stuffed up in the bumper when not being used, haven't had time to figure out a better solution.


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## sixandeightstringer (Nov 21, 2004)

My solution worked quite well; I got a "universal bumper mount" bracket from the local trailer store, essentially an l-shaped bracket with a metal hose clamp: 










I reached up behind the bumper fascia and wrapped the hose clamp around the square tube (it was tricky, and I skinned a couple knuckles, but it was worth it) - the trailer plug faces down, just to the left of the hitch. Not only is it not ugly, it actually almost disappears when you're not using it. It looks very stock, in fact - better than stock.


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## shawng (Jul 28, 2007)

I have a 2010 Canadian Highline made in 04/10 and I just did the equivalent of a colonoscopy under the dash and for the life of me can't find the connectors. Any clues?


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## TXTiguan (Dec 3, 2008)

Exaran said:


> For anyone who has used a non-VW receiver: Where did you mount the 7-pin connector?
> 
> From what I can tell, the VW receiver comes with a plate that it mounts to... I got a Draw-Tite one and am not sure where I can rig the connector without it looking ghetto


fwiw, I mounted the receptacle plate directly to the bumper, down low to the bottom edge of the bumper (left of the trailer hitch), with small, short, bolts and nuts. It has a spring-loaded cover that is held open when you use the 7 pin adaptor plug that I use when pulling my boat trailer or utility trailer. It looks professional, and does not allow moisture to sit inside the housing. 
When you are looking at the back of the car, the plate more or less dissappears (it is black, on a black bumper).

my .02 cents worth

TXTiguan


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## SB_GLI (Oct 17, 2005)

Okay, just to get this straight, there is no other way to hook up trailer lights without buying the $300 wiring kit? Just buying the 7 to 4 pin adaptor isn't going to make stuff magically work? :sly:

If you were to buy a brand new Tig with a "Towing Hitch" or "Towing Package", whatever they call it, would this $300 wiring kit already be installed? Or are they just charging you $320 for a chinsey 1 1/4" receiver?


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## brianteel (Jul 9, 2006)

Does the computer have to be coded for it to work and can i connect it now and code it later and no cause any issues?


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## brianteel (Jul 9, 2006)

anyone have a picture fo the box mounted.


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## shawng (Jul 28, 2007)

coding is required to make it work. I suspect that if you don't code it, it will be ignored.


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## brianteel (Jul 9, 2006)

i guess i need to find someone in NJ to code it then.


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## sixandeightstringer (Nov 21, 2004)

I'm in South Jersey and have a MicroCan... Which coding do you need?


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## brianteel (Jul 9, 2006)

Well I need what ever the coding is need to make the trailer stuff work right. I really do not know. Also looking for someone to play with my mom's 2010 Jetta TDI she just got. Do the windows and unlock all doors deal. wherein south jersey


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## LoneRanger! (Jul 23, 2005)

the link that explains how get the module from ROW to NA is inactive. can some one direct me to how to figure that out?

L.R.


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## Exaran (Feb 22, 2005)

LoneRanger! said:


> the link that explains how get the module from ROW to NA is inactive. can some one direct me to how to figure that out?
> 
> L.R.


I also need that info... I've been searching and searching how to get this VAGCOM to work, but all I find is broken links


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## SB_GLI (Oct 17, 2005)

Here's that link, but unbroken..

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4484276


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## doofoo (Jun 27, 2006)

I thought there used to be a PDF on the install process of adding the module but can't find it since the upgrade. Does anyone have a link to the procedure with pictures? I've had my module now for over a year and need to get it installed so I can tow my RZR-S soon.

Thanks!


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## doofoo (Jun 27, 2006)

Which hitch did you guys go with?

e-Trailer Hidden Hitch:
http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Volkswagen/Tiguan/2010/87600.html?vehicleid=2010203633

or

Draw-Tite:
http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Volkswagen/Tiguan/2010/75658.html?vehicleid=2010203615

Has anyone mounted a brake controller in their trucks either?

I was thinking of the Prodigy P-3:
http://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Controller/Volkswagen/Tiguan/2010/90195.html?vehicleid=2010215790

Anyone installed one?


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## brianteel (Jul 9, 2006)

i think they are both the same


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## Exaran (Feb 22, 2005)

Thanks for the link to the region fix.

Do you know what else needs to be configured in the VAG COM? I heard there were a few other parts to it.


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## Exaran (Feb 22, 2005)

In case anyone else was as lost as I was:

Here's a list of things that need to be coded with the VAG-COM from Ross-Tech's site:
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Trailer_Hitch_Retrofitting_(5N)


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## brianteel (Jul 9, 2006)

what exactly making these changes do? i hooked up the unit and i have lights.


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## doofoo (Jun 27, 2006)

I believe you need to re-code the trailer module itself in addition to the CAN Gateway to enable it. It will enable anti-sway and some other features.

I just completed mine on Saturday. My receiver should be here this week and I'll start towing a Featherlight 6.6x12ft trailer with my Polaris RZR-S soon! Yeehaw. Now I just need to figure out where to jack in for my brake controller - has anyone done this for the brake pedal?


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## Exaran (Feb 22, 2005)

brianteel said:


> what exactly making these changes do? i hooked up the unit and i have lights.


All my lights worked when I plugged it in, except for the brake lights. Part of the Trailer Module coding 
is setting it to the right region, which will fix that.

The other settings supposedly affect the skid control, and the car alarm


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## doofoo (Jun 27, 2006)

Can someone please post a pic of where they mounted the 7 pin plug onto their receiver? I assume most people here have the Draw-Tite or Hidden Hitch receivers? I just wonder how everything looks installed, I won't have mine until later this week.

Still need to figure out how to get the brake controller hooked up, I found someone on here before who had a brake controller installed but can't find their post anymore to send them a pm. If anyone knows who it was please let me know.


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## brianteel (Jul 9, 2006)

picture of plug behind the Data port above the pedal, kind of hard to find have to dig around a little










where the unit goes in the trunk. it is supposed to be mounted through on of those holes but i could not get it so i mounted it on the out side.


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## doofoo (Jun 27, 2006)

brianteel said:


> picture of plug behind the Data port above the pedal, kind of hard to find have to dig around a little
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Nice - yeah I got all that done. Do you have pics of the receiver, 7 pin connector mounted, etc? What have you towed so far with the truck weight wise?


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## brianteel (Jul 9, 2006)

that is all i have pulled with the module installed. before i installed it i towed a 2000 Jetta TDI 20 miles or so with no problem. It was on a wheel dolly. 

I am still trying to figure out how to mount the 7 pin plug.


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## doofoo (Jun 27, 2006)

brianteel said:


> I am still trying to figure out how to mount the 7 pin plug.


That's what I was worried about. The receiver doesn't have anywhere to mount it to.. Kinda sucks..


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## brianteel (Jul 9, 2006)

i just remove it and put the connector back in the bumper for now. there are brackets you can buy but i have not found one i like yet


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## SB_GLI (Oct 17, 2005)

I bought my kit from 1stvwparts.com for $302 shipped. 

I recently found a dealership, keffer vw, who honors a 27% discount on all parts to vortex members when you use the coupon code "vortex". :thumbup: 

Keffer VW Parts 

5n0055204NA @ $347.26 w/ 27% = $253.50 if I've done my math correctly. So if they don't charge $50 for shipping, looks like this is the best deal around.


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## brianteel (Jul 9, 2006)

i made a 7 pin to 4 pin adapter and for some reason i am not getting brake lights on the trailer. anyone have some ideas. the adapter is wired the way it should


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## SB_GLI (Oct 17, 2005)

brianteel said:


> i made a 7 pin to 4 pin adapter and for some reason i am not getting brake lights on the trailer. anyone have some ideas. the adapter is wired the way it should


 Have you done the coding yet? From what is sounds like a couple of posts above, coding needs to be performed for the brake lights to work.


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## brianteel (Jul 9, 2006)

no coding yet cant find anyone local to do it.


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## SB_GLI (Oct 17, 2005)

brianteel said:


> no coding yet cant find anyone local to do it.


 I just hooked everything up today and have not done the coding yet either. I'll hook up the trailer tomorrow and see if I have brake lights or not and let you know.


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## SB_GLI (Oct 17, 2005)

brianteel said:


> where the unit goes in the trunk. it is supposed to be mounted through on of those holes but i could not get it so i mounted it on the out side.


 This is how I mounted mine, behind the panel. Note the position of the screws. 










One thing worth mentioning is that when I was all finished, I hooked the battery back up and turned the key on, I had two lights illuminated in the cluster. One for "Power steering under powered" a yellow steering wheel, and the other for disabled traction control. I was worried about what might be wrong, but once I drove the vehicle the lights turned off.


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## sixandeightstringer (Nov 21, 2004)

brianteel said:


> no coding yet cant find anyone local to do it.


 I'm in Glassboro. If you're reasonably nearby, we can try to arrange to code your car for NA, which should make the brake lights work. PM me.


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## brianteel (Jul 9, 2006)

you are about 100 miles.


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## SB_GLI (Oct 17, 2005)

Confirmed. No coding = no brake lights. Coding = brake lights. 

This may have been mentioned earlier, but if you get a 7 to 4 pin adapter, don't get one with the LED in it. The LED screws up the bulb out monitoring, and you will get warning messages and lights on the dash.


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## windmantom (Jan 16, 2010)

*eTrailer wiring kits*

Yes I tried eTrailer P/N 119176 for my 2010 Tiguan and it did not work. What you need is 119190. 
This trailer wiring kit installed easily and cost only $74.95


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## WVWGBO169HW (Oct 4, 2009)

*I'm not there yet (brake wiring)*

yul m6, 
after you registered the module, did you check to see if you had 12V at the 12V pin? My 2010 came with the factory hitch & wiring, and I have turn, brake, marker/running, and back-up lights, but no 12V. And no wire to the "Brake" pin. 
See my post "Trailer Brake Wiring" to see if you have any ideas. Thanks.


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## brianteel (Jul 9, 2006)

got VAGCOM and coded the module for NAR. it now works. I did get a fault code saying open curcuit when I scan but no MIL. I am going to drive with it tomorrow and see if it is still there. I am running LED lights all around the trailer.


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## MBX5 (Jan 16, 2007)

Anyone find a way to mount the 7 pin plug yet? Photos would also help.


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## sixandeightstringer (Nov 21, 2004)

MBX5 said:


> Anyone find a way to mount the 7 pin plug yet? Photos would also help.


Yes, please check post #33 in this same thread.


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## MBX5 (Jan 16, 2007)

sixandeightstringer said:


> Yes, please check post #33 in this same thread.


Yes I saw that but thats just the photo of the part and I'm looking to see how it looks on the car.


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## sixandeightstringer (Nov 21, 2004)

I took photos but I don't have them here. I'll try to remember to find and post a couple when I get home.


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## shawng (Jul 28, 2007)

I realize this link is Canadian, but trailer parts stores should have one: http://www.princessauto.com/trailer...1-7-9-pole-trailer-connector-mounting-bracket


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## sixandeightstringer (Nov 21, 2004)

MBX5 said:


> Yes I saw that but thats just the photo of the part and I'm looking to see how it looks on the car.


Here you go, I took a few.


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## chrisell (Apr 20, 2010)

sixandeightstringer said:


> Here you go, I took a few.


How did you get rid of the stock receptacle that houses the plug before you put the tow kit in? I wanted to put a bracket on just like you show there but the plastic storage socket for the wiring plug was in the way and I couldn't get it off.


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## rete (Apr 1, 2011)

sixandeightstringer said:


> Here you go, I took a few.


You should apply some POR15 on those bolts and nuts (or switch to stainless)...another winter or two and that installation is permanent


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## MBX5 (Jan 16, 2007)

Thanks for the photos! That looks just like what I need.


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## sixandeightstringer (Nov 21, 2004)

chrisell said:


> How did you get rid of the stock receptacle that houses the plug before you put the tow kit in? I wanted to put a bracket on just like you show there but the plastic storage socket for the wiring plug was in the way and I couldn't get it off.


I didn't - I managed to squeeze it around it with some (not so gentle) maneuvering. Like I said, bloody knuckles...  I may have slightly bent the bracket, too; it's been a while so I don't remember for sure.


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## smswany (Jan 29, 2010)

So I picked up a 2011 SE a couple weeks ago and I too, just have the "second loop" and need to pick up the wiring module. 

Is the $320 "Tow Hitch" option on the window sticker seriously just the 1-1/4" hitch receiver?


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## doofoo (Jun 27, 2006)

smswany said:


> So I picked up a 2011 SE a couple weeks ago and I too, just have the "second loop" and need to pick up the wiring module.
> 
> Is the $320 "Tow Hitch" option on the window sticker seriously just the 1-1/4" hitch receiver?



Yup - don't waste your time. Buy the module and get your own upgraded hitch. Here's a pic of mine towing a larger 12' trailer I think it is with my Polaris RZR-S (about 1000lbs itself), and a pic of me towing my jetski. It does great with both.

Going to add brakes to the larger trailer just to make it less pressure on the truck's brakes at some point.


















Skip the towing option.


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## smswany (Jan 29, 2010)

doofoo said:


> Yup - don't waste your time. Buy the module and get your own upgraded hitch. Here's a pic of mine towing a larger 12' trailer I think it is with my Polaris RZR-S (about 1000lbs itself), and a pic of me towing my jetski. It does great with both.


Too late  Already had it installed when I got it. Lesson learned. On to spend to another $400 to get wiring and a real hitch.


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## motrid (Oct 6, 2004)

*Trailer module installation pdf*

I would greatly appreciate an email of the of the Panel removal and sill removal pdf. Thanks Joe


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## motrid (Oct 6, 2004)

*PDF file*

If possible, I would like the PDF's as I am getting ready to do the job now. I appreciate your help!
Joe



yul m6 said:


> I have the instructions to remove the sill and side panels in a PDF file, but it seems I cannot upload it here. Send me your email and I will send them to you.


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## smswany (Jan 29, 2010)

Just a heads up. Took all the panels out of the Tig this morning, got down to the padding on the inside and found out I already have the trailer wiring installed. Looked closer under the bumper and the plug that I thought was just the prep is actually the full 7 pin minus the actual receiving port. It's latched into a temp mount. 

Replaced the 1-1/4" hitch with a 2" and I'm done. 

Now I've got an extra wiring install kit from Keffer if anyone is interested.

:banghead:


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## yul m6 (Nov 22, 2009)

*I do not have the PDF files for sill removal any more*

I am sorry, but I lost them when I changed from windows to a MAC. I wish the mods had let me post them here back then.


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## motrid (Oct 6, 2004)

*trailer hitch vag-com coding.*

I completed the module installation and hitch mounting today, but need confirmation of vag-com coding necessary. I programmed the CAN-gatewayI have programmed the trailer controller for US, and used a dealer code (made up) Diagnostics now show the correct sequence. I am unable to figure out what I need to change in controller 01, engine. A previous post indicated that it needed to be coded for NA, but long coding help is unavailable for that controller and I really don't understand bits and bytes well enough to take a chance on doing it myself. I also believe that the two controllers mentioned above that I was able to change and the 01 is all that is necessary.Help would be greatly appreciated, I have a trailer ready for testing!

Thanks

Joe


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## motrid (Oct 6, 2004)

*another trailer hitch question*

I give up, what is the trick to removing the "plastic" rivets holding the jack box in place? I tried using torx bits, and square bits. I succeeded in getting the plastic bolt to turn, but it does not loosen. The module is nestled next to the battery ox and wrapped in foam, but I would like to do the job completely and mount it behind he metal body panel through the access hole.

Thanks

Joe


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## Myz (Mar 30, 2011)

Digging Up This Thread From The Dead! 

Who would be so kind to Email me the PDF file? 
I'll PM you my email Addr. 
Please.....


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## GWheels (Oct 12, 2007)

*Y-connector under dash*

Does anyone have a source for the under-dash y-harness?

Also, if the panel removal pdf is floating around, I'd appreciate a copy.

Thnx!


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## Lordboost (Dec 31, 2005)

yul m6 said:


> ...The next step is to code the module to NA region, very well explained in
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...84276


 Anyone know where this broken link goes to?


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## Junkyolebluecar (Mar 5, 2004)

*link to thread*

here is the original post about changing Rest of World to North American Region :beer:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4484276-Factory-trailer-module-coding-rejected


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## davebartell (May 25, 2012)

*2012 model - how hard is it to do this vs $215 dealer install?*

Thanks everyone who posted tips, photos, how-tos. I have a 2012 SEL. 

How hard is it to really put this in? Computer unit looks straight (take apart left side rear panel). Under steering harness (ferret out & unplug/replug). 

The "coding" for NA sounds like it requires dealer kind of equipment. Is this true? If it's a NA delivered car, does it need "coding".


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## shawng (Jul 28, 2007)

Yes it requires coding. Either the dealer or a shop or person with VCDS.


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## davebartell (May 25, 2012)

Had the dealer install as I didn't have a way to do the coding. Done in a few hours, but hooked up trailer today and no brake light signal. It's definitely the car as the 7 pin to 4 pin converter has LEDs for blinkers, running lights and brakes. Back to the dealer during the week. Anyone have similar issues? Is there a coding mess up that might cause this?


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## shawng (Jul 28, 2007)

Perhaps the tech did not do the coding. Perhaps he did not put the jumper in under the dash. Perhaps it is the trailer. I would take the car and trailer in and tell them to make it work.


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## davebartell (May 25, 2012)

Crazy, but the guys at Capitol VW in San Jose, CA worked all day to fix the issue. The computer kept resetting after coding and no brake signal passed through. They finally got the coding off one of the Tiguans on the lot that had a factory installed tow package. That coding worked and all is well.


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## rocketbrothers540 (Jan 7, 2007)

I am getting ready to take this on. Can someone please send me an email of the PDF of the instructions on how to properly remove the trim and panels to install the module. I don't want to damage anything. 

Thank you so much please pm me


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## SkullV (Jun 15, 2010)

For anyone that is interested this module from Curt works great. Just got the signal from the tail light harness and ran the power wire to the battery:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049CM1NE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00


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## SkullV (Jun 15, 2010)

SkullV said:


> For anyone that is interested this module from Curt works great. Just got the signal from the tail light harness and ran the power wire to the battery:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049CM1NE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00


No bulb out error, no coding necessary.


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## rocketbrothers540 (Jan 7, 2007)

Anyone out there have the PDF they can share with me?


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## markk900 (Dec 31, 2009)

No PDF but this link may help on the physical installation...

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5721385-DIY-Trailer-Module

I'm in the same position - I have installed the hitch itself - (piece o' cake), I have the module etc and am ready to tackle installation.....have gathered the instructions about the VCDS coding needed in case the techs at the dealership have the trouble some folks have had.

As to the Curt module - the dealer originally sent me to a hitch place rather than install themselves - they were going to use that module and had said they had no issues with it....BUT....the number of complaints here on Vortex about bulb indicators and the sensitivity of the system to varying loads I just wanted to be able to say "all OEM parts and dealer installed" - so any strange codes and its VW's issue and not an argument about "non-approved modifications"....

Mark


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## SkullV (Jun 15, 2010)

markk900 said:


> As to the Curt module - the dealer originally sent me to a hitch place rather than install themselves - they were going to use that module and had said they had no issues with it....BUT....the number of complaints here on Vortex about bulb indicators and the sensitivity of the system to varying loads I just wanted to be able to say "all OEM parts and dealer installed" - so any strange codes and its VW's issue and not an argument about "non-approved modifications"....
> 
> Mark


Make sure to get the module that uses Pulse Width Modulation and is powered by the battery (a little extra work running a power wire to the battery) and not by the lights themselves. As long as you use that one you have no risk of a bulb out error since the lights only provide a signal.

Nothing wrong with OEM parts though!


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## BuffsR (Jul 21, 2005)

sixandeightstringer said:


> My solution worked quite well; I got a "universal bumper mount" bracket from the local trailer store, essentially an l-shaped bracket with a metal hose clamp:


I've been looking all over the web for something like this, and I can't find it!! Where did you get this? I have all my wires hanging, and its driving me nuts!!!

Thanks.


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## BuffsR (Jul 21, 2005)

Well, I finally towed something of considerable size with the Tig, and very happy to report that it handled it like a Champ! I did swap out my receiver hitch to a Class III, and my concerns about tongue weight were put to rest. I obviously won’t abuse it, but the hitch handles the weight just fine. And I was really, REALLY impressed how well the vehicle drove while pulling this behind. I had it in Sport mode (to keep the revs higher, and less strain on the tranny), and it was so worry-free! Happy times!


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## markk900 (Dec 31, 2009)

I've got a 16.5' bowrider with a 90 on the back - it doesn't move far but I do need to launch and pull out the boat most summer weekends on a gravel ramp into the lake. Tig has been great at it (previous vehicle was a Murano with 3.5L V6)....very capable and the 4-motion makes a difference.


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## gima (Nov 6, 2004)

BuffsR said:


> Well, I finally towed something of considerable size with the Tig, and very happy to report that it handled it like a Champ! I did swap out my receiver hitch to a Class III, and my concerns about tongue weight were put to rest. I obviously won’t abuse it, but the hitch handles the weight just fine. And I was really, REALLY impressed how well the vehicle drove while pulling this behind. I had it in Sport mode (to keep the revs higher, and less strain on the tranny), and it was so worry-free! Happy times!


:thumbup::thumbup:


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## B02S4 (Dec 26, 2012)

BuffsR said:


> Well, I finally towed something of considerable size with the Tig...


Any idea what the gross weight of the boat/trailer is?

Your Tig looks nice & level, not much sag at all. I'm impressed. :thumbup:


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## shuko (Jul 24, 2007)

I picked up a small trailer (aluminum, about 1000 lbs) with electric brakes. The Tiguan tows it extremely well. I put it in 5th and cruise comfortably at highway speeds, getting 15-17 mpg.  

I will say that the VW electronic box in the tow package is actually worth the money. It changes the rear brake bias and stabilizes wobbles by cancelling it harmonically with the rear brakes. Cool stuff. 










(Note: the rear suspension looks very compressed in the picture, but it's because I'm on uneven surfaces)


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## ch46eseaknight (Mar 20, 2013)

BuffsR said:


> Well, I finally towed something of considerable size with the Tig, and very happy to report that it handled it like a Champ! I did swap out my receiver hitch to a Class III, and my concerns about tongue weight were put to rest. I obviously won’t abuse it, but the hitch handles the weight just fine. And I was really, REALLY impressed how well the vehicle drove while pulling this behind. I had it in Sport mode (to keep the revs higher, and less strain on the tranny), and it was so worry-free! Happy times!


 What is the approx weight of the boat and trailer? Does the trailer have brakes? Looks good! Nice outboard too! Is that a Verado? I've always wanted a boat with triple outboards! lol 



shuko said:


> I picked up a small trailer (aluminum, about 1000 lbs) with electric brakes. The Tiguan tows it extremely well. I put it in 5th and cruise comfortably at highway speeds, getting 15-17 mpg.
> 
> I will say that the VW electronic box in the tow package is actually worth the money. It changes the rear brake bias and stabilizes wobbles by cancelling it harmonically with the rear brakes. Cool stuff.
> 
> ...


 What is this "VW electronic box in the tow package " you speak of? My 13 tig came with the tow package. Hitch and wiring ect. does my Tig have some box I don't know of? Is there and electronic trailer brake I don't know of? 

I've been looking at pontoon boats and it looks like I will end up around 3400 lbs fully loaded inc trailer and gear. I will chaneg to a class III hitch before I tow. I'm just wondering if I should get a trailer with surge brakes or electric. 

Thanks


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## markk900 (Dec 31, 2009)

If you have a factory installed 7-pin plug at the back and it works, then the vw module was already installed....should be a section in your owner's manual (once you get past all the warnings etc) that tells you all of the features, but essentially the module adjusts brake balance and traction control based on a trailer being hooked up, and the car alarm works if someone disconnects the trailer wiring when the car is locked. 

The 7 pin connector has an output for electric trailer brakes but it is not hooked up to the wiring harness. There is a post somewhere in here where someone cleverly wired up a brake controller using the standard harness so that it was an extremely clean install and you used a regular 7 pin trailer hookup.


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## ch46eseaknight (Mar 20, 2013)

markk900 said:


> If you have a factory installed 7-pin plug at the back and it works, then the vw module was already installed....should be a section in your owner's manual (once you get past all the warnings etc) that tells you all of the features, but essentially the module adjusts brake balance and traction control based on a trailer being hooked up, and the car alarm works if someone disconnects the trailer wiring when the car is locked.
> 
> The 7 pin connector has an output for electric trailer brakes but it is not hooked up to the wiring harness. There is a post somewhere in here where someone cleverly wired up a brake controller using the standard harness so that it was an extremely clean install and you used a regular 7 pin trailer hookup.


 NICE! Thanks man! I'm still stuck on the phone/media section of the manual! lol


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## Tiguaner (Sep 24, 2012)

Any chance that someone still has the PDF for installing the trailer controller in a Tiguan?

I am trying to figure out how to remove the sill in the trunk


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## liquidvw (Mar 20, 2003)

Tiguaner said:


> Any chance that someone still has the PDF for installing the trailer controller in a Tiguan?
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to remove the sill in the trunk



Does this help?

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5721385-DIY-Trailer-Module


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## Tiguaner (Sep 24, 2012)

Thank you, it does!


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## sixandeightstringer (Nov 21, 2004)

BuffsR said:


> I've been looking all over the web for something like this, and I can't find it!! Where did you get this? I have all my wires hanging, and its driving me nuts!!!
> 
> Thanks.



It's probably this:
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/TrailerMate/TM75476.html


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## Tiguaner (Sep 24, 2012)

Help!!

I got the module installed but, for the life of me, can't find where to connect the y-harness under the dash. I just can't see any loose cables connected together. 

Can anyone post more details or pics?

I have a 2012 Canadian Tig btw


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## Tiguaner (Sep 24, 2012)

Got it! It was hidden behind a big bundle of cables. Now, all that's left is to find a bracket to mount the electrical connector and test the setup with a trailer


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## Tiguaner (Sep 24, 2012)

done!


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## Tiguaner (Sep 24, 2012)

*parking sensor?*

for people Tigs that have the proximity sensor in the rear bumper, what did you do after you installed a hitch and a bike rack? Is there a way to turn off the sensor or at least permanently turn off the sound?


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## JohnLRice (Jul 13, 2011)

I just installed an upgraded hitch today, pretty darn easy! :thumbup: But then of course, damn it, no mounting point for the wiring plate! :what: So, thanks to this thread and the mention of the universal mounting thingy I found a bunch of DrawTite options on this etrailer.com page: 
http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Accessories_and_Parts-sf-Wiring-pm-Draw~Tite.aspx 

And, FYI, my 2011 SE came with the $300 tow option but I was unsure if I needed to buy the expensive control box or not. I was in for servicing recently and I asked the service rep to check it out and let me know if I need to buy anything else electronics wise or if I was all set up and thankfully i was good to go! I just needed a 4 or 7 pin adapter and she told me that U-haul etc would have those but I was so relieved that I didn't have to buy a $300 box I ordered a 7 pin from VW for . . .$70!


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## NZTIGUAN (May 23, 2008)

Tiguaner said:


> for people Tigs that have the proximity sensor in the rear bumper, what did you do after you installed a hitch and a bike rack? Is there a way to turn off the sensor or at least permanently turn off the sound?


 If you have the full VW electronic package it will automatically turn the rear sensors off when anything is plugged into the electrics. If nothing is plugged into the electrics then there's not much you can do to shut the sensors down.


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## Tiguaner (Sep 24, 2012)

NZTIGUAN said:


> If you have the full VW electronic package it will automatically turn the rear sensors off when anything is plugged into the electrics. If nothing is plugged into the electrics then there's not much you can do to shut the sensors down.


 Hmm, I so have the vw trailer controller, but it doesn't se to turn off the sensors even when the trailer is plugged in and working find. Do you have any more info on this?


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## NZTIGUAN (May 23, 2008)

Tiguaner said:


> Hmm, I so have the vw trailer controller, but it doesn't se to turn off the sensors even when the trailer is plugged in and working find. Do you have any more info on this?


 Sounds as if it's not correctly coded as it certainly should. Mine turns off the sensors and shows the image of a trailer behind the Tiguan on the head unit screen when I select reverse. You'd need to get somebody who knows about such things to check your coding. 

Cheers


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## pelkie118 (Oct 19, 2011)

I just wanted to thank everyone who contributed to this thread. I just went through the entire installation and it was a breeze with the posted part numbers and DIY steps.

I will add that for anyone reading this at / near the time of posting, I picked up the old version (5n0055204N) of the trailer module for 79 bucks. I ordered it through the volkswagen parts store:
http://www.parts.vw.com/vwparts/index.cfm?action=accessories&makeid=35&manufacturerid=1000&catalogid=200&categoryid=40005&subcat1=50028&subcat2=0&subcat3=0&subcat4=0&subcat5=0&modelid=0&siteid=9&itemid=11280&jointvehid=0&startyear=0&startrow=1&partnumber=&description=&retval=%2Fvwparts%2Findex.cfm%3Faction%3Daccessories%26siteid%3D9%26catalogid%3D200

through a local dealer (fully expecting it to get cancelled) and the part shipped for a much more reasonable amount. I have no idea what the difference is between the N and NA version but I can say that the N version is working fine for me.

Finally, I'll include a couple pics of my Pollak connector mount.

[edit] fixed image links


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## gilesrulz (Nov 2, 2006)

pelkie118 said:


> I just wanted to thank everyone who contributed to this thread. I just went through the entire installation and it was a breeze with the posted part numbers and DIY steps.
> 
> I will add that for anyone reading this at / near the time of posting, I picked up the old version (5n0055204N) of the trailer module for 79 bucks. I ordered it through the volkswagen parts store:
> http://www.parts.vw.com/vwparts/index.cfm?action=accessories&makeid=35&manufacturerid=1000&catalogid=200&categoryid=40005&subcat1=50028&subcat2=0&subcat3=0&subcat4=0&subcat5=0&modelid=0&siteid=9&itemid=11280&jointvehid=0&startyear=0&startrow=1&partnumber=&description=&retval=%2Fvwparts%2Findex.cfm%3Faction%3Daccessories%26siteid%3D9%26catalogid%3D200
> ...


What model year do you have?


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## pelkie118 (Oct 19, 2011)

gilesrulz said:


> What model year do you have?


2011 4Mo SE


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## gilesrulz (Nov 2, 2006)

pelkie118 said:


> 2011 4Mo SE


Dang. Wish I knew whether that part number would work on a '12.


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## markk900 (Dec 31, 2009)

According to a number of sources on the interweb that module is for up to 2011. Not sure what changed in 2012 so you could try it for under $100 and report back!


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## gilesrulz (Nov 2, 2006)

You don't say! Yeah. I'll get right on that.


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## markk900 (Dec 31, 2009)

I was kidding but when I looked at the parts, the control module is the part that changed - the hookup appears the same. And I think the NA version works with the earlier model years as well (in other words, NA superceded the N version), so in all likelihood the NA has additional/different functions but I would bet it would work with later cars. Having said that I installed the NA version in my 2012, so of course I am willing to bet someone else's car to find out!!:laugh:


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## greggmischenko (Mar 21, 2011)

pelkie118 said:


> I just wanted to thank everyone who contributed to this thread. I just went through the entire installation and it was a breeze with the posted part numbers and DIY steps.
> 
> I will add that for anyone reading this at / near the time of posting, I picked up the old version (5n0055204N) of the trailer module for 79 bucks. I ordered it through the volkswagen parts store:
> http://www.parts.vw.com/vwparts/index.cfm?action=accessories&makeid=35&manufacturerid=1000&catalogid=200&categoryid=40005&subcat1=50028&subcat2=0&subcat3=0&subcat4=0&subcat5=0&modelid=0&siteid=9&itemid=11280&jointvehid=0&startyear=0&startrow=1&partnumber=&description=&retval=%2Fvwparts%2Findex.cfm%3Faction%3Daccessories%26siteid%3D9%26catalogid%3D200
> ...


Man, I wonder what happened. I was waiting a couple of weeks to buy 5N0055204N and now it's up to over $300 everywhere I look!


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## pelkie118 (Oct 19, 2011)

greggmischenko said:


> Man, I wonder what happened. I was waiting a couple of weeks to buy 5N0055204N and now it's up to over $300 everywhere I look!


PM'ed


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## inflatin (Sep 4, 2003)

*where does this go*

So I installed the trailer hitch kit from ECS tuning today. Question I have is (and I can't seem to find out where??) is where does the electrical box included install? Sorry for being a newb but I just cant seem to find out where its supposed to go! Under the steering wheel? In the trunk? help!


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## markk900 (Dec 31, 2009)

See post #1, step 4 in this thread (it goes behind the trim on the left side, in the hatch area. Plugs are already there to hook up). For pictures, I believe @liquidvw did a post showing the step by step.


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## brownel02 (Jun 26, 2014)

*Trailer Wiring Y Harness*

Has anyone come up with a source or part numbers for the connectors to DIY the Y harness for the trailer lights? Any links would be most appreciated. Thanks

Need to buy or make one of these:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9CpA5UNf65CWEZ6ZGJwekJ0NW8/view?usp=sharing


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## brownel02 (Jun 26, 2014)

*trailer coding*

Does anyone have an active link for the following (from Post 1):

"The next step is to code the module to NA region, very well explained in:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...84276

I saved this link but it is dead. If not I am looking for how to code the new module. A friend has the Ross Tech cable and software but wanted some guidance to speed the process. 

Thanks


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## liquidvw (Mar 20, 2003)

brownel02 said:


> Does anyone have an active link for the following (from Post 1):
> 
> "The next step is to code the module to NA region, very well explained in:
> 
> ...



Is this what you want? http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6111733


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## bhavin83012 (Aug 31, 2015)

*Bhavin*

Hello,

The step 
"The next step is to code the module to NA region, very well explained in
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...84276"

Seems to be not available. Could you please post the new link again? 

I will really appreciate for your help.

Thank you...
Bhavin


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## lby0001 (Nov 4, 2015)

*how to remove truck jack panel*

Can someone show me how to remove truck jack panel? to install the computer???


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## baboondumdum (Apr 15, 2016)

yul m6 said:


> I can confirm that the module operates the lights and will also detect a burnt out or missing bulb. I remember reading somewhere that to enable stabilisation, the engine or the ABS module needs to be coded which I did not do.
> As for the weight rating the consensus that this is a legal issue.
> I sent you the pdf files. Hello moderators, it would be great if I can post them in this thread.


Sorry to revive an old thread.

But how do you check if your Tiguan's computer is updated to take the trailer?

I'm one of those trust but verify types of people. I had my trailer and electronics installed by the dealer. I'm sure it was done right and they did explain needing to do an update on the computer prior to me handing over the keys, but how does a lowly customer go about verifying this is infact done? For example, after an oil change, I will go check the dipstick to compare before and after to make sure I was not shafted. How do I go about checking the trailer settings? If you're saying lights work without coding the computer but that only ABS and stabilization would not work without coding, how do you verify the ABS and 4motion part?


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## Taintted (Jan 25, 2014)

Does anyone know what the difference is if you don't code the trailer module to NA? For instance, if I left it coded to ROW would it allow the blinkers to be separate from the brake lights and allow the use of rear fog lights on a trailer? I actually picked up the Westfalia kit for my wife's 2014 Tiguan, it comes with the module and a new harness but I only paid 200 for the entire kit. I believe the plugs are the same as the VW Module, but the difference is I don't have the Y Connector that comes in that kit. With regard to the pre-wired plug under the rear bumper, is that just a plug or is it the actual 7 pin socket?


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## TheTig (Dec 11, 2016)

Could someone post specifics, or photos on how to get into the wheel well to mount the module?

Thanks


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