# Quantum help- removing steering rack?



## vwzooo (Nov 23, 2003)

Guys,
I've been holding on to an '87 Q sedan for quite some time, only recently getting it into my garage to get working again. The last major problem I have is the steering rack, which is leaking. I have a spare, however I'm at a loss for the steps involved in pulling the rack (the Bentley is no help in the matter). Can anyone help a brother out? This is for a non-synchro, if that matters.
(I would try searching, but the server appears borked)
TIA,
-Kevin



_Modified by vwzooo at 8:33 PM 2-20-2009_


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## eurowner (Jan 26, 2002)

*FV-QR*

I have a spare Bentley, $75 shipped.


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## vwzooo (Nov 23, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (eurowner)*

bump, anyone pulled one of these recently to offer some insight?


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## JohnBarleyCorn (Aug 29, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (vwzooo)*

I've also got a spare Bentley for $55 shipped and you want to remove the nuts that hold it to the firewall (3 if I'm not mistaken) and the 2 that go through the driver side inner fender with allen head bolts on the wheel side and standard nuts on the engine bay side. And you need to remove the tie rod assembly which you can do at right under and to the driver side of the battery with a 17mm socket and wrench combo. Last thing to do would be to remove the pump lines, most easily doing that at the pump. I think that's a basic rundown, but I never did it with the engine in place before. I don't know what that would do to complicate it other than the obvious space restrictions. Buy my Bentley! Or Eurowner's, they're the same, I'm sure.


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## vwzooo (Nov 23, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (JohnBarleyCorn)*

John,
I already found a bentley on ebay (for a whopping $20!) but the diagram for the 'rack was pretty much just that, a diagram and nothing more.
I don't think I was aware of the 2 bolts on the dr side fender, so I appreciate the comment. I sort of figured that this is a job that's easier done with the engine removed, but it's really the only problem piece and I'd rather just remove it itself it at all possible.
thanks for the reply though, much appreciated.
-Kevin


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## 8587qsw (Sep 12, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (vwzooo)*

Kevin, you should join the link below as well. Most of us own quantum syncros but also welcome any other quantum owners given these cars share many parts.
I did 2 rack-n-pinion removals over the past 2 years.
I removed the rack in the following order:

1. Remove the inner tie-rod bolts and nuts (17mm) that connect via carrier to rack-n-pinion. For this, you will have to move the rack-n-pinion left and right via the steering wheel as to get to the bolts and nuts; once you see it you'll know what I'm talking about. The 1st time I did the job I removed the ignition coil attached next to the battery, but the second time I managed to remove & replace (R&R) those bolts nuts without removal of the coil. You are going to need an extension with 17mm socket to reach the bolts; and if bolts are too tight, you will also have to hold the nut below each bolt with yet another 17mm opne wrench.
2. Remove, if need to, the lower plastic cover under the steering wheel to reach where the steering column attaches to the rack-n-pinion. Make sure to see how is connected in order to reassemble it...it can only go one way and held by either a 10mm or 13mm nut. Take a look at how the steering column itself is assemble. Once you remove said nut pull the steering column up and you will notice that is made up of two pieces, pay attention as to how they assemble for reassenbly. Also take a look at the orientation of the steering wheel itself in relation to where the rack-n-pinion rod end to assemble it as close as possible in relation to each other.
3. Remove the power steering pump without detaching the hoses and place it on the valve cover securing it with a string or something. I found it easier to remove the pump attached to the hoses and rack-n-pinon as a whole....you'll see why once you do it.
5. Remove the power steering oil reservoir from it bracket...pulls right up and place it somewhere with hoses still attached. I recommed removing most of the liquid here. 
4. Jack up the driver-side of the car and remove the tire.
5. SECURE the vehicle as to prevent an accident because you'll need to crawl under it.
6. Remove the 2 allen bolts that attached the rack to the inner well on the driver's side.
7. Crawl under car to undo the 5/8 or 7/8 nut that attaches the rack to the fire wall. This will take sometime since you can only turn nut about 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time, unless you have one of those nice wrenches with racheting feature...comes in hady here but I would not go and buy one just for this job. I would put a little mark with a marker or the like to the very spot on which the rack attaches to the firewall to line it up to the same spot where replacing it. This would save you alingment issues to the streering column.
8. As the firewall nuts comes undue, be prepare to hold the rack as their's nothing else holding it. Best to have someone in the inside of the car to help you guide that rack out as to not to damage the big rubber gasket on the firewall. If you don't have anyone helping you here make sure to have that in mind, if not, you will rip that big rubber grommet!!
9. Work the rack either down or up through the engine bay along with the pump/hoses. Again best if you have someone help you here. 

10. Remove hoses off the rack-n-pinion and replace with non-leaking one.
Again, make sure vehicle is very secure to prevent any accidents. SAFETY 1st and do the job at your own risk









Is not such a bad job if you take your time.








-Louis DC

Good Luck.


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## 8587qsw (Sep 12, 2006)

Oops, forgot to post the link..her it goes:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/syncronized/


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