# 3.6 24v is going in the Corrado!



## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Hello All! I finally got my swap car to try my hand at this swap. 2006 Passat 4mo w/149k on the clock. I'll pretty much be following the blueprint G60ING and the contributors there have laid out and find my own ways to solve certain problems along the way. 

The Corrado is a 92 SLC so its a dizzy VR6 with 210k on it, 10lb flywheel, K&W V2's, BBS Montreals. Other than that, pretty much stock. 



















So the order of operations will be to get that 3.6 out of the passat so I can do a lot of work to it before I even touch the Corrado. The 3.6 leaky, might as well change a lot of seals, chains, guides, headgasket, valve seals, etc whiles its out. I also want to keep driving the Corrado while the weather is nice 


Things to figure out:

1.) Accessory drive. I know I need 24v VR6 accessory bracket w/mk4 tensioner pulley. Since I am starting with an SLC I believe my AC Compressor, water pump and PS pump are fine (*all 12V accessories bolted up to 24v accessory bracket)*

2.) Crank pulley. Either figure out what machining needs done to make the OEM part work or Fluidamper *Passat crank pulley should work..will update later. UPDATE: Passat crank pulley 100% works*

3.) Clutch and flywheel: I really like the lightweight flywheel I currently have. Not sure is that is a good route to take here. But, being that the engine is ~270ft-lbs at the crank, a stage 2 SB rated at 325ft-lbs would probably be enough and SB conservatively rates their stuff. Clutch Masters doesn't list torque values for their clutches so I may shoot them an email to see what they would recommend. *Leaning Clutch Masters FX300 and having the old flywheel resurfaced. UPDATE: went with Clutch Master FX350 and it is fantastic. Had to SHORTEN the clutch master pushrod by 1/8" for pedal to feel stock. Resurfaced 10lb flywheel works great as well)*

4.) Transmission: Would a bolt kit in the diff be enough? Or just bite the bullet on a wavetrac LSD? I'm certainly looking for advice on this one. Car will be street driven only, not launched hard. But pulls to 6k+ will happen. *(had peloquin LSD installed, necessary upgrade IMO.)*

5.) Oil cooler: Stock? Or go down to a smaller mkIV one? *Going Stock with a modified front engine mount*

6.) Swap software: Is there any big differences between UM and Malone on this? I know I at least need IMMO defeat and coding for 2 OS2 sensors vs 4... (* currently running stock software, there is rev hang on the factory software but it works)*

7.) Cooling: 909CFM low profile fan isn't enough to keep it cool. Testing a 1328CFM 12" medium profile Spal soon. I would also like to make a fan shroud and run both fans and put the 900CFM fan on the high switch


I'm sure I'll think of more...


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

choobs said:


> Things to figure out:
> 
> 1.) Accessory drive. I know I need 24v VR6 accessory bracket w/mk4 tensioner pulley. Since I am starting with an SLC I believe my AC Compressor, water pump and PS pump are fine
> 
> ...


1) not sure, I’ll let you write that book but why not do the higher amp alternator. Plus it fits better. Ac compressor I agree. The tensioner and PS is where the questions really sit. 

2) You can use the Passat pulley.

3) That 325lb might not be enough. Remember you are doing a tuning and exhaust work to the 

4) Bolt kit and reinforce the roll pin in the diff. The roll pin fails more than anything.

5) Use the stock 3.6 cooler, I tried to do the 12V one and after going back and forth after fitting it I decided the space gained by the 12V wasn’t worth it. 

6) Nobody has dynoed the Malone tune yet. In the 3.6 FB Group John Levine has been doing some dyno testing of tunes. 

Mine isn’t that far along. Mine had a rev hang but Mark Malone has been working to tune it out. My Buddy’s son just did a auto to manual swap in he B6 4motion with a Malone tune and Mark has almost completely fixed the rev hang. I think I’m probably near 295whp and after some tweaks I’ll be north of 300 and maybe 320 with cams.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Made some progress today, I'm dead tired but it was well worth the effort! Picked up a 24V accessory bracket and belt tensioner and also ordered a bunch of seals to start getting this old motor back in shape. 

Below is a list of ordered parts so far, still need to get a timing chain kit, head bolts, and water pump..I'm sure there is more outside of that I'll need

I've also started a google spreadsheet of parts with OEM part numbers. 3.6 Parts List



Ordered parts

Intake mani seal - lower	03H133237D
valve cover seal	03H103483E	
rear main	021103051C	
front main	022103151D	
valve stem seals (x24)	36109675A	
head gasket 03H103383K
oil cooler seal - inner	038117070A
oil cooler seal - outer	038 117 070
knock sensor	030905377C


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## 02tt225 (Sep 13, 2007)

Good luck man.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

02tt225 said:


> Good luck man.


Nice work on the parts list, if only Kept every one of those that I've put together.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Got the engine on my Jegs 1000lb stand. I ditched the 4 arms and drilled the plate out for the rear motor mount points. That way I have access to the front and rear of the motor...

Got the 24V bracket and alternator sorted, changed out the water pump, stripped the timing covers and valve cover, ordered a bunch of timing parts. Everything looks clean inside the motor but I'm going to just do the chains and guides while I'm here. Between FCP and ECS I was able to put together a decent near complete mostly OEM VW kit for $270. Oh and did a ton of cleaning since this lump of iron is GRIMY. Next on the list is to take the head off and start cleaning out those gross intake ports!


Timing parts and numbers (the only part I didn't buy is the pin on the upper guide #071 109 515)

Timing Chain - Lower	03H109465	Iwis
Timing Chain - Upper	03H109503	Iwis
Chain Tensioner Rail - Lower	21109467	Iwis
Chain Tensioner Rail Upper	03H109509A	VW
Timing Guide - lower	21109469	VW
Timing Guide - Upper	03H109513B	VW
Guide Pin Lower	21109471	VW
Chain Tensioner - Upper	03H109507	VW
Guide Pin upper	066109511D	VW
Guide Rail Upper	066109514A	VW
Oil pump bolt	N10404404	VW
Tensioner Bolt - upper	N10613901	VW
Tensioner Bolt - lower	N90923801	VW

accessory bracket



















Timing and cams


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Nice progress


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## [email protected] (Jun 23, 2006)

nice work! let the fun begin:thumbup:


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Got this heavy lump off the block. I'd like to get this to a machine shop soon in case there is a longer than normal wait time on turn around. In the meantime, I can focus on stripping the engine harness, accelerator pedal, ecu, fuel pump, FP control module, fuel lines and such. 

It looked like there was some leaking starting into one of the cylinders so this was certainly a good thing to do while the motor is away from the car.










also tried to capture the timing marks on the cams as best I could. Timing on the crank pulley was set to TDC on cyl #1 by the normal marking convention


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

I have my own opinion on decking a vr6 head and that as little as possible should be taken off and the reason being is that timing chains won't be easy to get right with the head being shorter than it was before. It would be cool if VW had different thickness of head gaskets like they do for TDIs for VR6s to make up for machining of the head. When I build my next engine I might try not to deck the head and just use copper sealant on each side of the HG rather than risk a shop taking too much material. 

I had a bramble VR that I rebuilt the head (and decked it) on and it never ran 100% perfect after decking the head and I have always suspected the shop took too much and it caused all sort of minor issues related to the deck height. I sold that car for a huge loss to the next owner with huge disclaimers and he continues to drive it with odd running behaviors.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Thanks for the reply G60ING, I didn't consider a lot of that. I know I have not decked VW heads in the past and used the copper spray to good results. Something else I didn't consider was compression ratio. This motor is already 12:1, not sure how it would be able to cope with more compression.

All this said, I think I like the copper spray/no decking option so I'll most likely go that route. Which means that maybe I can put this thing back together this weekend :thumbup::beer:


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Making more progress. I had intended on changing out that valve stem seals but the angle of the valve springs wasn't really accommodating my el cheapo valve spring compressor, so I ditched that idea and instead bought a Himalayan Freight media blaster and some fine walnut media (24 grit.) I saw G60ING had posted in his thread about having luck with it so I gave it a go myself. The valve on the gun isn't the best but it did force me to upgrade some stuff on my compressor and get an inline condensation filter. 

Results: not bad. I could have spent more time with it but I figured I took years worth of build up out of these runners so its still a win. I had also soaked the runners in seafoam which helped loosen up some of the heavier chunks. I can see the valve and the guide, good enough for now I suppose. 










Cams, caps and lifters stripped from the head










I ended up turning the cams by hand to open the intake valves and scrape more crud off. So much buildup on the valves...










Lets put the head back on already!










Heads on and torqued up. I need to wait for a special tool to keep the HPFP gear from turning however this must be a tool for only the early BLVs. I saw Nater I believe have a tool to hold an oblong shaft but my HPFP just has the hole for that shaft. Instead, I have to wait for this special tool which was of course twice as much as the oblong shaft one. VW Audi Valve Timing Adjustment Tool T10332.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

I added the tools and details to my master list. I ordered the cheaper one at first too:banghead:

*Specialty Tools:*
Cam Lock Plate (same as other 24V VR6s)
Timing tool for the HPFP on early engines (no vacuum pump on the head(early BLVs 2006-2008)
Timing tool for the HPFP on Later engines (Mechanical Vacuum pump on head)
Coolant Vacuum refiller


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Question regarding timing:

My intermediate shaft gear is 180 degrees out from the 7:00 position. I think this shaft only controls the oil pump but 180 deg out should be fine. Can anyone confirm that? Also, I have the intake camshaft adjuster turned all the way counter clockwise for the timing marks to line up.

Crank pulley mark is still on the block mark. Crank gear tooth is lined up with where the case splits.



















Still waiting on the tool, but this is pretty close to correct I think.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Rotate the crank 360*


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> Rotate the crank 360*


Looks like the IM shaft rotates 90 degrees clockwise for each crank rotation, so it took 2 full rotations. In any case, oil sprocket mark lines up now :thumbup:


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

A nice little reference for torque specs just for the timing components and all the timing mark locations

http://replace-timing-belt.com/how-to-replace-timing-chain-on-vw-passat-3c-3-6-fsi-r36-4motion/


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## jddaigle (May 30, 2003)

choobs said:


> A nice little reference for torque specs just for the timing components and all the timing mark locations
> 
> http://replace-timing-belt.com/how-to-replace-timing-chain-on-vw-passat-3c-3-6-fsi-r36-4motion/


Awesome reference! I'm going to add it to the Resource Thread.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Been getting side tracked will all the stuff around the house I should have been doing instead of tinkering with my toys...

anyway, new parts aquired are:

ARP flywheel bolts
ARP diff ring gear bolts
Clutch Masters FX350 clutch/pressure plate
CE2 relay and fuse sockets from G60ING (thanks man!)
New Beetle OBDII port
MSD Tach Adaptor

Today I did at least take the oil pan off to check the oil pickup and make sure everything looks right. Upon inspection I found that this gasket/screen from the vvt housing must have fell out when I was disassembling the head...










Sigh. This means all the timing covers came back off, cam adjusters, top chain and guide/tensioner and then it all needed put back together...again. But at least the problem was found before the motor went in the car and I kind of wanted to reseal the lower timing cover again since some oil had leaked on to the mating surface that didn't get cleaned off. So it should be all around better at this point :thumbup:

Tomorrow im going to do my best to get the Corrado's engine/trans out mostly to get that flywheel out and off to the machine shop to be surfaced. If the planets align, I can have it back for the 3 day weekend at least have the motor sitting in the car...we'll find out! Option 2 is to just order an OEM flywheel since they are like $60.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Woo! Parts!


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Well I got about half as far as I wanted which considering that its 90 and super humid out, I'll take it! We are at the no turning back point now...

10# flywheel going to the machine shop this week for resurface, motor should be 100% ready to go in the car soon. The trans, however, still needs torn apart so probably a few weeks before everything is at least sitting in the car. Fingers crossed!


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Check the runout on the flywheel where the ring gear sits


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> Check the runout on the flywheel where the ring gear sits


I'll ask the shop if they can do that for me, thanks!

I'm also thinking about going the LSD route. The trans already needs torn apart and the added power is just going to make the stock diff behave worse. I may also look for a shop to do this for me since I don't have a way to check pre-load...


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## ceese (Jul 2, 2011)

How many miles are on the 3.6? While you have it apart you may want to replace the gasket in the cylcone chamber in the valve cover. It's a stupid thing to have fail after all your hard work.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

150k on the motor. I thought I had read about the oil cyclone giving people issues at high miles but I could never find additional information on the topic. I think the Autotech guys just replaced the whole valve cover to get a new oil cyclone. I removed mine and took a look at it but I didn’t see any replacable seals...


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

choobs said:


> I'll ask the shop if they can do that for me, thanks!
> 
> I'm also thinking about going the LSD route. The trans already needs torn apart and the added power is just going to make the stock diff behave worse. I may also look for a shop to do this for me since I don't have a way to check pre-load...


You need to hit up HGB Baxter on Facebook, Hank used to go by HGB here on the Vortex helping people with rebuilds and giving LOTs of good advice until they black holed everything he did because he wasn't a paid advertiser. He lives in Spring Valley NY, I had him go through my transmission and check things out this past June/July. He found some pinion shaft wear which was causing my transmission to loud. He changed out the shaft. Good guy


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

choobs said:


> 150k on the motor. I thought I had read about the oil cyclone giving people issues at high miles but I could never find additional information on the topic. I think the Autotech guys just replaced the whole valve cover to get a new oil cyclone. I removed mine and took a look at it but I didn’t see any replacable seals...




yeah the PVC diaphram is a common issue, you can get a new valve cover and gasket on ebay for $60. The diaphram costs about $35


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> You need to hit up HGB Baxter on Facebook, Hank used to go by HGB here on the Vortex helping people with rebuilds and giving LOTs of good advice until they black holed everything he did because he wasn't a paid advertiser. He lives in Spring Valley NY, I had him go through my transmission and check things out this past June/July. He found some pinion shaft wear which was causing my transmission to loud. He changed out the shaft. Good guy


Thanks! I'll shoot him a message and see what we can set up. 

On the topic of the oil cyclone diaphragm, looks like I just didn't look hard enough for a DIY. https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthr...-Oil-Separator-Diaphragm-Valve-on-the-3-6-VR6

And a direct link to the part for future reference


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## ceese (Jul 2, 2011)

choobs said:


> 150k on the motor. I thought I had read about the oil cyclone giving people issues at high miles but I could never find additional information on the topic. I think the Autotech guys just replaced the whole valve cover to get a new oil cyclone. I removed mine and took a look at it but I didn’t see any replacable seals...




The diaphram on my 3.2 A3 just went at 80k miles, I've got to take the entire front end of the car off to reach the valve cover such a PIA. I picked up a replacement from Amazon (RKXTech) $30. They're supposed to be longer lasting than OEM.

Instructional video on replacing it.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

ceese said:


> The diaphram on my 3.2 A3 just went at 80k miles, I've got to take the entire front end of the car off to reach the valve cover such a PIA. I picked up a replacement from Amazon (RKXTech) $30. They're supposed to be longer lasting than OEM.


I purchased that today! One more potential headache out of the way :thumbup::thumbup:


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## ceese (Jul 2, 2011)

choobs said:


> I purchased that today! One more potential headache out of the way :thumbup::thumbup:



I'm really interested in seeing your build come together. The 3.6 is the powerplant that should have shipped with the Corrado. Bet it's going to be a blast to drive.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

ceese said:


> Bet it's going to be a blast to drive.


 I hope it is! :thumbup::beer:

Dropped the flywheel off today at the machine shop and asked them to check runoff. They basically said that however much they take down the friction surface area they also will take down the ring gear mating area, which makes sense. But I still asked them to measure it even though it _should_ be flat after machining.

Also sent a message over to HGB on facebook about some trans work. We'll see how this all unfolds!


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

I pinged him to check his FB messages.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> I pinged him to check his FB messages.


:thumbup: I appreciate it! Looks like I'm ordering a peloquin and having HGB do some work for me...


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Not much time to work this weekend with family in town. But I did get the PVC diaphragm replaced and the accessories figured out. The 12v PS pump bolts up! Unforunately the banjo bolt was siezed to the line to the line got trashed getting the motor out of the car...

Anyway, belt is from the 12v engine w/ac and w/PS which according to Continental has a length of 50.79in with 7ribs. The 24v belt is 51.97in with 6 ribs. I think I need the 24v belt since the extra rib looks like it'll rub on the block when running..


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Definitely need a 6 rib belt


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

I used the 24V belt


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

need_a_VR6 said:


> Definitely need a 6 rib belt





G60ING said:


> I used the 24V belt


Yup, and I see why now: The crank pulley is 6 rib. The only accessory that is not 6 rib or smooth is the AC compressor since that is from the corrado. I'm not concerned. 

Pic of the crank pulley w/6rib belt











Got the trans kind of cleaned up, peloquin is here so I'm ready to hand all this over the Hank! I figured this will be the only time I get to see my LSD so I better snap a pic of it...




















Also got the flywheel and clutch installed. Red loctite on ARP bolts, 45 ft lbs + 90 degrees. Pressure plate has to come off since I bought the wrong bolts. They are twice as long as they should be, oops!











So what is up next on the list:


Get correct PP bolts and some O-rings from VW
Scavenge downpipe flanges from old car
collect the O2 sensors
get the wiring harness out of the doner car
get fuel pump, lines, accel pedal from doner car
refinish Corrado rad crossmember while its out of the car


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Not much to show, but I did meet up with Hank today and handed off the trans and the LSD! Can't wait to post pics of the internals. 

As far as progress, scavenged the flanges from passat downpipes today and the accelerator assembly. Was going to more but had the opportunity to meet up with Hank and chose to do that instead. Good dude! :thumbup::beer:


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)




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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Obligatory trans guts picture. Not sure of any issues with internals but it is exciting to see! 

Also ordered up some stainless parts to make the downpipe. From my measurements, OD of the tube exiting the manifold flange is 2.25". So I got some tubing and a few short flex joints. Going to have to give myself a crash course in back purging and learn to TIG stainless with my lil ESAB scratch tig welder...


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Just use solar flux on the downpipe instead of backpurging.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

need_a_VR6 said:


> Just use solar flux on the downpipe instead of backpurging.


Solar flux is on the way, thanks for the suggestion! Also picked up some ARP rod bolts. Maybe not necessary but a good precaution. The engine is out still, easy access, what's another $120?


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Got the tranny back! Looks great, HDB does some really nice work. He was able to find me a .756 5th gear which by my calculation drops the RPMs by ~10% over the .838 that was in there. I'd prefer a .717 or .681 but the .756 was a good deal so we'll see if it works out. 


I hope to have this mated with the motor this week and in the car this weekend! Still lots to do but this is a step I've been dying to see for months.


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## [email protected] (Jun 23, 2006)

nice work, you should look into a 02J/Polo shifter swap, its an awesome upgrade:thumbup:


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

[email protected] said:


> nice work, you should look into a 02J/Polo shifter swap, its an awesome upgrade:thumbup:


Certainly on my list of things I'd like to do! The shifter linkage on these old 02a is pretty vauge for sure. 

Not a lot of pictures this time but I did plastigauge all the the rod bearing joints and re-assemble with assembly lube. All of them came back with ~ .0015" of clearance which is within the spec that I found (0.0004" to 0.002"). Sealed the pan up again, mated the trans to the engine and finally put them in the car....without the front engine mount. Checked my MIG shielding gas and the valve was cracked so I have to get a new bottle tomorrow. However, its pretty easy to see how to make the new engine mount. And I also had a mk3 ABA starter bolt lying around!

Hope to have the mount done by mid-week and also some rust repair on the crossmember. Then I can move on to everything else that needs done...


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Congrats,

I’m thinking of taking a spare set of rods to get measured before installing ARPs and then measure them after. If the specs are out on any of them I’ll pull apart my long block and have the rods resized. If they are good I’ll just slap them in on my longblock. I hate the idea of replacing a HG for no reason other than rod bolts.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> Congrats,
> 
> I’m thinking of taking a spare set of rods to get measured before installing ARPs and then measure them after. If the specs are out on any of them I’ll pull apart my long block and have the rods resized. If they are good I’ll just slap them in on my longblock. I hate the idea of replacing a HG for no reason other than rod bolts.


Thanks! 

Having the spare rods checked would be good for peace of mind. I just can't see how replacing bolts alone would cause an issue with this style of rod. And like you said, I don't want to burn a headgasket and another set of headbolts to find out...


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Finally got all the necessary welding stuff, so I took time to cut up the front engine mount.










These welds on the bottom don't look too shabby! 










Painted up and ready to go in the car










Motor/Trans with crossmember installed, no more engine lift or jacks holding wqeight










This is version 1 of the mount. 










I didn't really like how the front looked weak so I added in a gusset in Ver 2










I may also box in that area behind the vertical engine mount bolt for some extra strength. We'll see.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Attempted to massage the crossmember to make room for the AC compressor to not make contact when the motor rocks back and fourth. Instead decided to make a notch, now there is plenty of clearance for the compressor itself but the pulley still hits. Guess I'll be notching again this week...


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Great news I went to the machine shop around the corner from NGP to measure before and after ARP rod bolts in a set of 3.6 rods. They told me they had done this same measurement of stock and ARPs with these rods twice before and no distortion. They said if I wanted to waste my money they would do it but politely told me there was no need in their eyes.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> Great news I went to the machine shop around the corner from NGP to measure before and after ARP rod bolts in a set of 3.6 rods. They told me they had done this same measurement of stock and ARPs with these rods twice before and no distortion. They said if I wanted to waste my money they would do it but politely told me there was no need in their eyes.


That IS great news! Thanks for acquiring this information! Its one less thing to worry about when firing up this motor for the first time...

The other stuff that worries me is that I don't use a dial gauge when I torque stuff to torque spec +90 or +180 degrees. I just kind of eye ball it. Because of that, I did order one of these AC Delco digital torque adapters so I can at least check that the headbolts are all torqued to the same amount. The flywheel bolts? Jesus has the wheel on that one...and red thread locker.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

I just use a torque wrench and for the degree (+90* or +180*) I just put a stripe on the bolts with a sharpie and turn. No magic


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Finally getting some work done. The last few weeks were pretty boring as I spent a few hours here and there getting the wiring harness out of the car. The part of harness that goes into the cabin was a pain in the ass so I ended up cutting the wires near the firewall. Not an elegant solution but oh well. 

Downpipe weekend! Got the primaries all tacked together, now I can separate them from the collector and weld them up fully. 

What I started with:










First bits, ended up shortening one of these because of the shift cables were right in the middle of the tube










One runner to the collector!










And both routed to the collector. 










Gaps between pieces are fairly tight, I'm pretty happy with how this is going this far :thumbup:


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Nice work


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

When you aren't a good welder,you're a good grinder. I proved that adage well in making this downpipe. Cleaned up most of the welds, added in the O2 bungs and mated the whole system together including the O2 sensors. 



















What took some extra time was cleaning up the old hacked up exhaust that I did temporarily for the prior engine. Below on the right is the section of tubing that the downpipe led into before the cat. Just a restrictive mess that measured 2 3/8" ID. I cut it out, back to the cat and replaced it with 3". Now the rest of the system after the cat is only 2.5" so that will have to addressed later on. So basically 2.25" primary, 3" collector to through the cat, 2.5 the rest of the way out.










Prepped the fuel pump by blocking off the smaller 1/4" line and mating the two 1/2" black lines together. I also flipped the float so that the fuel gauge will at least travel in the correct direction










And the rest of the fuel/EVAP system. I am going to try and use the Passat EVAP lines but I'll have to make a fuel line since the GTI fuel filter is a male end.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Ok - so it seems the fuel filter in the PASSAT is in-tank with a single bundy connector on the top the pump where as the FSI GTI fuel filter is external with a different pump top, a feed/return connection and the pressure is regulated at the external filter. For now, I'm just going to stick with the full passat setup unless I want to go to a cheaper/simpler fuel filter replacement and move to an external.

Passat fuel pump top










FSI GTI fuel pump top


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## SupergolfR (Aug 12, 2016)

*Very nice!!!*

Your build is amazing, I want to do a Passat R 3.6L swap in my 16 Golf R I’ve been getting negative responses in regards to this swap, that the VW R manual gearbox can’t candle that power and torque. I was told to just add a LSD and the transmission will be fine.. you think that’s true?? Can’t wait to see your end results!!!


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

SupergolfR said:


> Your build is amazing, I want to do a Passat R 3.6L swap in my 16 Golf R I’ve been getting negative responses in regards to this swap, that the VW R manual gearbox can’t candle that power and torque. I was told to just add a LSD and the transmission will be fine.. you think that’s true?? Can’t wait to see your end results!!!



Your Golf R transmission won't bolt to a 3.6 engine. You would need to purchase a VR6 (R32/2.8) manual transmission for the swap. Yes it will hold the power but you will need a good clutch, a diff and potentially shift forks when you do the swap for longevity.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Got a little more done on the fuel system. Picked up these Dorman bundy adapters in an attempt to make the EVAP system work.










Also picked this up from Autotech for the aux water pump/after radiator coolant sensor. Also picked up a 4 pin temp sensor to put in place of the two










After some time with a die grinder with a sanding drum bit, I got a mostly round fuel pump flange










Decided that instead of widening the fuel pump lock collar, I would just get rid of the tabs on the sending unit flange to let the untouched collar sit flush










And here is the locking collar sitting nice on the pump top










However, I am running into a slight issue. The tank seal from the corrado will slip on to the sending unit housing but the unit will not slip into the tank. When I measured the diameter of the corrado fuel sending unit vs the passat, there is ~3/16" more diameter on the passat unit. I sent G60ING a PM on this so hopefully I can fill in this blank soon. 

Next is to figure out how that in-tank locking ring comes out...


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

I used a large O-ring to seal it. I’ll check to see if I can find the size I used.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

https://www.grainger.com/product/FABORY-Round-246-Medium-Hard-Viton-1KAJ6


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

I have these 2 on order with grainger right now...

Dash Number 349 O-Ring 4.5" ID, 4.895" OD

Dash Number 047 O-Ring 4.5" ID 4.629" OD

I figure I'll attempt to recreate the seal between the pump and the side of tank opening in addition to sealing between the sender and tank flanges. Basically put the biggest one on first then two of the smaller ones. We'll see how that turns out this weekend...


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Let me know how those work out, I’m doing another 3.6 corrado swap into a 93 shell in a few months.


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## DbilasTDI (Nov 5, 2017)

So you can only use an R32 trans on the 3.6 and not a vanilla 2.8 VR trans?


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

DbilasTDI said:


> So you can only use an R32 trans on the 3.6 and not a vanilla 2.8 VR trans?


Any VR6 transmission will bolt to the 3.6


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> Any VR6 transmission will bolt to the 3.6


This. There are essentially 2 bolt patterns for transmissions with VW. VR transmissions and everything else.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Well I got the bigger of the two O-rings on Friday. Fits nicely inside the lock collar and around the fuel pump! I'll have to wait till next week to test the smaller o-rings


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

So after running the Passat fuel/EVAP line into the car yesterday I remembered there are 3 lines in the Passat from the rear of the car to the front. I only have 2 and its because I'm not transferring over the leak detection pump...










Also scavenged some OEM bundy connectors from some of the Passat lines and orderd some 5/16" line to finish off the fuel system


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING - the T fitting have highlighted in the red box below, is that a 3.6 part? Or is it from somewhere else?


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

It’s a 3.6 part, let me get the PN


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)




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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Thanks! I went and dug through my parts pile again and found it. The 3.6 actually has 2 of these in the system...

The one you show is different, that has an extra opening for the water temp sensor. I picked up a T fitting from Autotech for that which goes inline with the aux water pump...


This is the T fitting for the larger rad hoses with a T into the aux water pump line


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

I figure one less fitting is a good thing


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> I figure one less fitting is a good thing


I'll agree with that. And even with my 1 additional T fitting, there is still a dozen or so less connections in this system then the original 3.6 :laugh:


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Exactly, I ran out of good clamps when doing my system


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Figured out 99% of the water system. Using the stock corrado radiator and a combo of tubing form both the corrado and passat was used to achieve this. The only thing I did not figure out yet is the routing from the overflow tank to the rest of the system. 

I do however need to order up some slim fans as there is no way the OEM fan assembly will fit. The fan motor is just insanely large. Also, I notice when taking the fans off that the belt that runs the 2nd fan wasn't connected. Guess that's why I always had cooling issues...


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

I just ran my 1998 TDI coolant overflow hose to the bottom of the reservoir. For the top of the bottle I used one of the small hoses from the 3.6 Passat.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

For the fan I used a spal 12” mounted directly to the radiator using a g60 fan relay setup.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> For the fan I used a spal 12” mounted directly to the radiator using a g60 fan relay setup.


Yeah I saw you used a single spal, is it enough? I was going to run two of those just to make sure I got enough CFM through the rad but if 1 fan works, I'll take simplicity...


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

It’s run fine so far. If I being to overheat in the summer I’ll add a 2nd


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Rare sighting of the fuel pump lock collar that is in the bottom of the corrado tank. No idea how this thing is supposed to be removed, but knowing VW there is some special tool to make it easy. I would guess that it snaps in on the black pins somehow...


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

I used a pair of these to remove the ring from the bottom when I was TDI. Then when I did the 3.6 swap I dropped the tank and used a dremel to flatten the plastic nubs that were left. Then flushed the tank with water to get the crap out.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Yeah I was trying to avoid dropping the tank. Either way I'm working inside that tiny hole which is a pain. What I did was use a hacksaw blade and cut through those nubs as close to the bottom of the tank as I could. I'll flush them down with a flat file then wipe the tank clean. 

Getting the full fuel pump assembly in the tank is a giant pain in the ass  I haven't yet figured out a solid method for that one yet. My plan was to put the bottom assembly in, tuck the plastic lines then mate the top and bottom parts but those stiff plastic lines make that a bitch.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Fuel system is done! (except wiring) I found a youtube video with a neat suggestion on how to press the bundy connectors into the plastic fuel line using some wood working quick clamps. Basically slot one side of the clamp to slip the line into so you can get a straight press on the connector. Obviously you can put the split 2x4 in a vice if you are working on the bench but this was the setup I needed to press a fitting with the fuel line already in the car. No heat required, a little bit of petroleum jelly on the barbed tip and press.

The piece of 2x4 has a 5/16" hole drilled in the middle and then it was split in half so I could hold the plastic line firm without collapsing it.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Nice work, I hated that part. When I do my next set of lines I’ll try that. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> Nice work, I hated that part. When I do my next set of lines I’ll try that.


It works well along as your alignment of the clamp is straight when you press, you try to press off axis and the plastic line wants to bend in one direction.

Nothing too big to show but the engine is looking more complete after putting the intake mani and routing some of the wiring harness. However, I did break a few of the connectors for the ignition coils, luckily they are on sale at ECS right now for <$10 each  Part number 1J0 973 724


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

I posted this in G60ING's thread as well but I am making a version of his wiring pinout that is centered on the sensor/component the wires belong to. To me, this helps visualize the wiring harness in a different way and may aide trouble shooting. Below is the T94 connector. The big contacts 1-6 are the power and grounds, the smaller contacts 7-94 are for sensors and such. This is the part of the wiring harness with a lot of chopped wires for me, so I'll concentrate on this connector first. 

After I'm done making my tab in that XLSX file, I'll upload it to my dropbox or google drive for others to use. 

The new tab is titled "sensor grouping T94" 3.6 wiring BLV Spreadsheet


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Good stuff, thanks


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Stripped the loom down and marked all the wires to what pin they route to, grouped them together if they all go to the same sensor or being deleted.

Also picked up a cheapo air filter with a velocity stack to make up an intake using the original MAF. Its is a Blox Racing shorty intake w/velocity stack


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Been spending my time thinking of how I want to connect all the wires from the engine bay to the inside of the car. I would like there to be a single interconnect between these two areas. This is mostly so I can avoid using butt end crimps and instead have a sealed unit that should last a lot longer. Thus I have been looking at some automotive connectors to get the job done. I'm mainly posting stuff here so I can remember part numbers for myself. Any other suggestions are appreciated...


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Ok - I'm skipping the overkill TE connector and just using buttend crimps. Using decent crimp connectors and a proper crimp tool makes this easy peasy. Anyway, listing here some of the fused connections needed for items attached to the T94 loom...

Pin 5 for MAF (black/gray wire) - fuse 22 on panel C 10A (terminal 15)
Blue/red heater wire for front O2 sensor - fuse 24 on holder B 15A (terminal 87)
White/red heater wire for rear O2 sensor - fuse 24 on holder B 15A (terminal 87)

terminal 15 is the ignition relay
terminal 87 is ??? my guess is this is a relay switched on when the engine is running. Since the corrado originally had a front O2 sensor, I'll probably tap this relay for O2 sensor power...


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Also figuring out pinout for the blue 4 pin coolant temp sensor. I think this is right...

Pin 1 - ECM
Pin 2 - Cluster
Pin 3 - GND
pin 4 - GND

Also, I am curious G60ING, you mention Motronic trigger circuit wires in your pinout. I'm not sure I understand what those are. From your notes it would seem that pins 69, 92 are pins to be powered along with pins 3,5,6 on T94 for add-on Relay #1. They are all routing from the same relay and I'm guessing that relay is SPST and switched on via ignition switch. And for Trigger Circuit #2 you grouped with your O2 sesnor heater wire. Is that correct? Below is what I imagine minus fuses:


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

It’s late but not wanting to hold you up, here is my notebook drawing. The coolant pump boggles my mind a little now that I’m looking at with a couple  but hopefully the picture helps.

I usually keep a small binder for all my swap projects so even if all electronic files disappeared I’d still be able to trouble shoot it.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)




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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> It’s late but not wanting to hold you up, here is my notebook drawing. The coolant pump boggles my mind a little now that I’m looking at with a couple  but hopefully the picture helps.
> 
> I usually keep a small binder for all my swap projects so even if all electronic files disappeared I’d still be able to trouble shoot it.


You aren't holding me up, I'm just wrapping my head around all of this before I push forward and run wire. But I certainly appreciate the fast response! Thanks man! :beer::beer::beer:


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Alright, I should have enough supplies to start wiring!


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Box of sanity? Looks good


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> Box of sanity? Looks good


Indeed. I want Future Choobs to have an easy time fixing things so good wire and dedicated colors will help that effort. 

Made a list of what I believe I need to leave behind off the old Corrado wiring harness. Since I'm using the old AC I'll need those wires along with the yellow water temp wires, oil temp for the MFA. Updated list: includes VSS and back-up light switch


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

While you have your harness apart, where does the crank sensor (g28) ground out at? Is it the sport on the rear of the head by the throttle body?


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> While you have your harness apart, where does the crank sensor (g28) ground out at? Is it the sport on the rear of the head by the throttle body?


Black wire off pin 1 of the crank sensor, I'll take a look tomorrow...


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Found out it’s going to the head ground point.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> Found out it’s going to the head ground point.


Good deal :thumbup:

I also updated post #99 on page 4 of a bunch of corrado wiring. Just making sure I'm leaving behind what I need to and not making extra work for myself.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Been dragging my feet on progress as I want to understand the electricals as much as possible here. Some googling led me to find this pinout for the T94 power/CAN










What I notice is that the two pins 87 & 92 are switched +12V power. T94/87 is switched off your CCV heater which is already on a switched circuit so you pull that from G2/4. But what I don't see is how T94/92 is getting power from your diagram below unless T94/69 is a +12V supply pin.

Also, with respect to the coolant pump reply, T94/33 is basically the ECU's switch for the pump to activate, correct? From how I read your diagram, that ECU pin would be receiving +12V at all times. My brain is telling me that T94/33 is high for pump on so GND would be needed on the other side of the relay to complete the circuit, close the switch and allow T14/3 to receive +12v. Does that sound right to you? The only other explanation I have is that T94/33 pulls down to GND when the ECU wants the pump to activate which would explain why you have +12V coming into that pin.

I really have no understanding what T94/89 and T94/69 actually do...

[image removed, corrected relay diagram on post #109]


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

choobs said:


> Been dragging my feet on progress as I want to understand the electricals as much as possible here. Some googling led me to find this pinout for the T94 power/CAN
> 
> 
> 
> ...


T94/92 in spreadsheet says Y power which is the back of the fuse block power. 









For the coolant pump reference the factory wiring schematic if you think my drawing isn’t correct:









T94/89 isn’t used based on my spreadsheet
T94/69 is a power source for the ecu. Don’t over think it


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> T94/92 in spreadsheet says Y power which is the back of the fuse block power.


****, that one should have been obvious! 



G60ING said:


> T94/89 isn’t used based on my spreadsheet
> T94/69 is a power source for the ecu. Don’t over think it


Ack, that was supposed to be T94/32 instead of T94/89. I'll fix that. I'll also double check the coolant pump wiring against the Passat wiring diagram. Thanks for the detailed reply!

If there is anything I'm good at its over thinking things. But once I understand it at a level I'm comfortable with, it'll get wired up fairly quickly. I'm almost there! :thumbup: :beer::beer:


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

choobs said:


> ****, that one should have been obvious!
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Jesus F'n Crust. I just figured out what the little boxes with the numbers mean. T94/69 and T94/92 both route to area 1 of the entire wiring schematic which shows them going to T26a/7 (J271) which is a Motronic current supply relay. 

For the coolant pump, T94/33 goes to area 4 which is T40/10(J160) Circulation pump relay so you are 100% correct on that as well. And look, they explicitly show the relay routing! :facepalm::facepalm::facepalm:



I'll fix the above photos to reflect the correct pin positions for everything.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

No worries, it took some discussion from a VW master tech before I could digest VW schematics.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Corrected relay diagram below. If anyone wants to run rear O2 sensors, there will be a white/red wire for the O2 sensor power that would need added on Motronic Relay #2 with a 15 amp fuse.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Got my T fitting for the coolant temp sensor, part number 023 121 174. the diameter is a little big for the lower rad hose, but some boiling water softened the hose up enough to slip it on with the help of elbow grease. Just need to source another bigger clamp for the connection at the block...


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Also getting around depinning the fuse holders and relay holders, does anyone know the part numbers for the crimp terminals? Digging in the dark corners of the web I came across this site

http://www.passatplus.de/umbauteile/stecker/stecker5.htm

my GUESS is the following:

Fuse holders: 

1,0mm 000 979 135
2,5mm 000 979 227
4,0mm 000 979 306 

For relays:

1,0mm 000 979 107
2,5mm 000 979 204
6,0 mm 000 979 402 

Now to get some TE part numbers for these and see what kind of ridiculous quantity is the minimum order :laugh:


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

You have pics of the pins? Vw uses jr timer, junior power timer and timer pins mostly


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

need_a_VR6 said:


> You have pics of the pins? Vw uses jr timer, junior power timer and timer pins mostly


Good to know, thanks! Below are what I think are the correct parts:

Fuse terminals: https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-927839-2.html

Relay terminals: https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-5-160558-1.html (maybe)


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

In my build thread there is a link to a Tdiclub thread with all the part numbers. Then it’s a googling exercise.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> In my build thread there is a link to a Tdiclub thread with all the part numbers. Then it’s a googling exercise.


:beer::thumbup:

That thread is really useful. Further down there is a link to a cross reference with VW part#'s compared to TE's 

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=4189914&postcount=92

and

http://www.carcajou.de/knowledge/kontakte_t.htm


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Did some googling and came up with what I think are good part numbers for both the relay and fuse holders. Also picked up some extra non-oem fuse holder clones from https://www.vancafe.com/ who have clones of VW relay and fuse holders. They also come with contacts but they aren't as robust as the TE parts. 

TE parts ordered: 

Relay tab terminals - TE Faston 250
925603-2
60253-2

Fuse holder terminals - TE Standard Power Timer REC 6.3
927833-2
927827-1

Aftermarket fuse holders and relay hosuings

Fuse holder
Relay holder


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## DbilasTDI (Nov 5, 2017)

I like these the best: https://www.ebay.com/itm/380946109958

volks bolts also sells the oem style crimp on terminals.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

DbilasTDI said:


> I like these the best: https://www.ebay.com/itm/380946109958
> 
> volks bolts also sells the oem style crimp on terminals.


:thumbup: Always good to have more resources. Finally have my accelerator installed. Its ugly, but it'll do.


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## ceese (Jul 2, 2011)

choobs said:


> :thumbup: Always good to have more resources. Finally have my accelerator installed. Its ugly, but it'll do.



TT or R32 pedal will work and they're metal


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Almost done with the engine bay wiring, Still got plenty to do inside the car. Question: For the coolant temp sensors, I assume the ECU needs both the pre-rad and post-rad sensors to detect when to turn the aux pump on, is that correct? I would also educationally guess that the radiator temp sensor would be the post-rad temp reading as its at the bottom of the radiator.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Question: There is a brown/green wire attached to a crimped ring just below the throttle body; it looks like it should ground to the head. However when I test continuity, pins T60/44 (hall sender) and T60/60 (O2 sensor) are tied to this ring. Where does bolt to?

Also, there are grounds on T60/14 and T60/52 that are currently not tied to ground; I have no idea where that ground tie is...


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

choobs said:


> Question: There is a brown/green wire attached to a crimped ring just below the throttle body; it looks like it should ground to the head. However when I test continuity, pins T60/44 (hall sender) and T60/60 (O2 sensor) are tied to this ring. Where does bolt to?


Tough to see when bolted together, plus I use an insulated clamp for my early manifold’s vacuum line.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Yeah that is where I figure it went, thanks for the pictures!

I also figured out my confusion: T60/52 and T60/14 are grounded through the ECU (most likely thanks to the crimped ring grounded to the head). There is no external wire to tie to ground so to speak.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Good news: Wiring 99% complete! I need few more fuse holders for the fuel pump and brake switch wires but everything else is done. Nothing melted, car turns over, my ODB2 reader can read the ECU. Very happy with the progress.

I did run wires to the fuel pump and brake switch without the fuses just to see if I could get it to fire. The fuel pump relay isn't operating so no firing today. But its close. :thumbup: :beer:


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Figured out my issues, still need to fuse a few things but at least we have a running car!


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Congrats


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Not too much to update on since my crank sensor took a dump, waiting on that and some AC compressor seals this week. After that, should be okay to re-assemble the front end of the car. Instead worked on tidying up the wiring, cleaning up, re-assembling anything that isn't in the way. 

Final wiring diagram, 4 relays, 12 fuses. Still need to figure out the tach adapter but the car did run long enough to know that tapping injector 1 positive does NOT work. I believe I read that you can tap the coil ground since all the coils use it as its return path; we'll see soon. 

Updated relay/fuse diagrams:


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## d-bot (Sep 6, 2004)

Great work and congrats on getting it running.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

d-bot said:


> Great work and congrats on getting it running.


Thanks! Its been a long road so I'm really motivated now to get it back together!

A few additional things done:

Hook up the blue wire from the cluster to the alternator or it won't charge the system
Added the low oil pressure switch to the oil filter housing
Coolant filled - no leaks
No oil leaks

Things I need to figure out still:
rad fan wiring from the Corrado fan relay module
The A/C wiring left over from removing the Corrado ECU. It controls a relay in the fan relay module I think for the high pressure sensor? I need to investigate further. 

I am still concerned about the lumpy idle. I hope it isn't the cams off by a tooth so I may look for some vacuum leaks first. If I don't find anything, I'll re-time the upper chain and see if thats the issue...would I see any ECU codes related to this?


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

choobs said:


> I am still concerned about the lumpy idle.


Well, it doesn't seem as bad today but the timing advance jumps all over the place at idle. However holding an RPM the advance holds a value which is what it should do. Maybe this is normal?


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

I’m not certain I know what you mean by lumpy idle or jumping around. 

Vacuum leaks can cause idle issue.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> I’m not certain I know what you mean by lumpy idle or jumping around.
> 
> Vacuum leaks can cause idle issue.


What I mean by the timing advance jumping is that when I monitor the timing advance output in a scan tool, I see values ranging from 0 to 25 degrees BTDC at idle. I saw some areas to inspect so I'll start there tomorrow.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

The ecu uses timing as part of the idle stabilization strategy. I would be more worried if it didn’t jump around.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

need_a_VR6 said:


> The ecu uses timing as part of the idle stabilization strategy. I would be more worried if it didn’t jump around.


good enough for me. Car should be back together and on the road this weekend!


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Put everything back together and drove the car to at least get some gas in the tank. Drove great but I am getting what sounds like belt/pulley squeal from somewhere so I'll have to hunt that down. Verified that both the fan and fan after-run are working so that was a plus!

Also mounted my ECU on the passenger side of the engine bay. I am going to try and make a box to cover it out of the underhood relay box from the passat and a plastic battery box. Mainly I want some isolation for the ecu from the rest of the engine bay and any weather elements. 

Lastly the MSD 8920 tach adapter doesn't seem to be the solution I need so I ordered up one of these Autometer units for distributerless ignition systems


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Nice, for the ECU box consider this: take a mk2 TD airbox and massage it so it’s just a lid and doesn’t have an opening. 

It will look factory, I’ve thought about doing this just for storage/looks


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> Nice, for the ECU box consider this: take a mk2 TD airbox and massage it so it’s just a lid and doesn’t have an opening.
> 
> It will look factory, I’ve thought about doing this just for storage/looks


Interesting idea! I was considering the 3.6 airbox before I saw how massive it was. From some quick googling apparently the mk3 airbox is too big. I'll see if I can hunt something down if my initial idea doesn't pan out :thumbup:


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

The reason why I suggest the TD box is because it’s basically the same as the VR6 corrado airbox at a fraction of the cost. The base is essentially the same between all mk2, g60 and SLC airboxes.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> The reason why I suggest the TD box is because it’s basically the same as the VR6 corrado airbox at a fraction of the cost. The base is essentially the same between all mk2, g60 and SLC airboxes.


And anything to avoid paying the Corrado tax is good in my book.


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## nycdub2 (Feb 13, 2005)

Hey Guys, 
First off, this engine swap looks great and love the progress. Can you guys tell me where is knock sensor 1 and what it looks like as there are two and they are different. I believe one has just the sensor and the other has the sensor with pigtail. I need to change mine. Thanks


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

nycdub2 said:


> Hey Guys,
> First off, this engine swap looks great and love the progress. Can you guys tell me where is knock sensor 1 and what it looks like as there are two and they are different. I believe one has just the sensor and the other has the sensor with pigtail. I need to change mine. Thanks


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## nycdub2 (Feb 13, 2005)

Thanks for the info, most appreciated.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

While exploring options to get the tach operatings I figured it would be a good idea to check and make sure the tach still worked after feeding it a few different signals. I picked up a $10 square wave generator of amazon to give it a test...

Spoiler alert: It still works!















So after some research this weekend this leaves me with a few options:

1.) tap off the crankshaft sensor signal wire and feed that to the tach signal converter. I'm not a huge fan of this idea since the engine relies so heavily on the crankshaft sensor that I'm not sure I want anything creating possible distortions or irregularities on the line. Also, I have no idea what this signal looks like without an oscilloscope so that would need verified upfront. If I do this, I can probably buy the unit in #4 below and skip installing the extra magnetic pickup.

2.) get a CAN to tach converter, there are a few out there. I also don't like this idea since it typically means plugging into the OBDII port which won't allow the shift level cover to snap in place. I may be able to split the CAN +/- wires to a separate unit to do this like a dakota digital unit

3.) an IR sensed circuit that reads off the crank pulley. An interesting idea, it basically using an IR LED and IR Photoresistor to detect IR light. A small strip of IR reflective material on the crank pulley could pull this off but I can see downsides here as well: how does it stand up to time, heat cycles, dirt, etc. A link to a page with how to build one https://www.electronoobs.com/eng_arduino_tut15.php

4.) add another magnetic pickup sensor for just tach operation http://www.dakotadigital.com/index....t_id=129/category_id=694/mode=prod/prd129.htm

5.) Like diesel engines, use the alternator to pickup a tach signal


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Don’t do #1. I know fourthchirpin found something to work. Will alert him to your q.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

need_a_VR6 said:


> Don’t do #1. I know fourthchirpin found something to work. Will alert him to your q.


:thumbup: much appreciated, thanks!


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## fourthchirpin (Nov 19, 2004)

This is what I did for my tach to work


I ran a wire from the ALT to the input of a Dakota Digital DSL-1d, The output goes to the Tach wire in the Cluster. (U2/03) I think. 
I opened my alternator to do this.



http://www.dakotadigital.com/pdf/dsl-1d.pdf


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

fourthchirpin said:


> This is what I did for my tach to work


Awesome, thanks for quick reply! :thumbup::beer:


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Success! That was far easier to do than I thought. For anyone looking for further information, you basically want to pop the black cap off the back of the alternator and find one of the three thick copper stator leads that attach to the rectifier bridge. Clean the lead off, use plenty of flux to further clean and help solder flow and solder together your wire and the lead. I needed a butane torch to do this as a soldering iron cannot provide enough heat. 

For anyone interested why this works, the alternator generates AC and the rectifier bridge converts that to DC before sending the current to the battery. So if you tap the AC side of the rectifier your RPM signal looks something like a dirty sine wave. The dakota digital unit (the new one is a DSL-1E) will take that signal and convert it to a 12v square wave of the same frequency. :beer:

Additionally, the DSL-1E will allow a multiplier from 0.25-4.00 if you would like to fine tune your gauge. A setting of 1.0 is a good place to start.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Nice job


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Since I was asked about it, I might as well post it in the thread too. This is my wiring for the fuel pump module. As for the sending unit, I simply flipped the float from its original mounting position. It reads close enough on the gauge for now: With the fuel tank full, I see a little over 3/4 of a tank on the gauge. 










Also - I'm getting a strange squeal from the engine once its fully warmed up. When the motor isn't under load, it sounds like belt squeal but it sounds like it is coming from the throttle body area. The pitch or the rhythm of the sound doesn't change with RPM, its just becomes more audible under less load. Anyone have ideas on this one?

Im also tracking down some intermittent power loss at the fuel pump. Fun fun!


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

choobs said:


> Im also tracking down some intermittent power loss at the fuel pump. Fun fun!


Small update:

I took out the fusebox completely as there seemed to be an intermittent power loss happening at the fuse panel. Split the panel, blew any dirt off and looked for corrosion, everything looked ok. Put it back in the car and it fired back up. No idea if this actually fixes the problem but it can drive again!

Also was reading up on PCV issues as the possible cause to my squeal. Looks like I must have installed the new PCB diaphragm incorrectly as the amount of vacuum made the oil filler cap very difficult to remove. Unplugging the line from the intake mani to the valve cover, plugging the intake hole, the squeal is gone and PCV pressure seemed normal. Looks like I'm taking that apart again...

Any suggestions to replace the plastic hose that connects the valve cover to the CCV heater? Mine was really brittle when I got the car and it broke immediately. I'm sure if I had normal PCV pressure, the heater hose with a PVC pipe stent in it to prevent the hose from collapsing should be fine.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

That pvc Hose is $15 on eBay


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> That pvc Hose is $15 on eBay


Do you have a link? I cant seem to find one for that price. I'll pay that all day long vs some half-assed solution I come up with


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

choobs said:


> Do you have a link? I cant seem to find one for that price. I'll pay that all day long vs some half-assed solution I come up with


Well I just bought one off Amazon so I could get it this weekend and be done with it. $50, not terrible I suppose. 

When putting the car back together last time I tore one of the lower injector o rings that mate with the rail; does anyone have a part number or solution for just that o-ring? VW only sells it as part of a kit and not an individual o-ring.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Sorry, out of the country and also out of spare time. I looked the part number up on eBay a few months ago and it as very cheap.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> Sorry, out of the country and also out of spare time. I looked the part number up on eBay a few months ago and it as very cheap.


Its cool man, enjoy the time abroad! I did order a few OEM fuel injector seal kits from FCP so I can fix that issue as well and HOPEFULLY get this damn thing inspected!


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Do you have an Instagram account?


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> Do you have an Instagram account?


I do


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Ok - the car should be ready for inspection. I took it out and thrashed around on some back roads for funsies and now another issue. With the car is fully warmed up and I let it idle too long, the engine sputters, dies and will not restart. However after some cool down it starts just fine. 

Scanned the ECU and I have P0087 and P2293 which are the fuel pressure sensors. From what I have read this may be related to the HPFP(?) so I'll tear that down soon and take a look I suppose.

EDIT: Interesting note, I was observing live data of the high pressure fuel sensor and with the engine hot and not running. The fuel pressure was slowly climbing to nearly 8000 kPa (1160psi) . I then started the car it came down to 4000ish kPa (580psi) then stuttered and died with difficulty starting. Pressure is now at 320kPa (46 psi). 

I'm thinking the high pressure sensor might be kaput.

EDIT 2: Idle fuel pressure should be ~40-50 bar (588-735 psi) so that seems to fall in line with what I observed but the rising fuel pressure with the car not running doesn't make any sense. That value should be static unless that thought is incorrect...


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Another interesting trend I have noticed is that when the car is hot, the gauge for the coolant temp reads fairly close to the oil temp at around 210ish deg F, which I would expect since I have the sensor pre-radiator tapped for the gauge. However, when I view the scan tool, the ECU is seeing a temperature of 270+ deg F. I checked the resistance between the individual temp circuits and found the following:

for the gauge circuit: 2.04 kOhm @ 70 deg F
for the ECU circuit: 1.01 kOhm @ 70 deg F

According to the test ranges I have seen for these sensors, the gauge circuit has the correct resistance but the ECU circuit does not. Is is normal for these 4 pin sensors to have different ohm ranges for the same temperature? Or is this an indication of a bad sensor?


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

It’s normal to have different temp ranges for the 4 pin sensors, that’s why I had to be careful when installing mine. What sensor are you using?


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

I’ve heard it’s common to have bad fuel pressure sensors.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> It’s normal to have different temp ranges for the 4 pin sensors, that’s why I had to be careful when installing mine. What sensor are you using?


357 919 501A I beleive


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

choobs said:


> 357 919 501A I beleive



Ok, same one as mine, is it wired the same as the mk3 TDI wiring schematic?


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> Ok, same one as mine, is it wired the same as the mk3 TDI wiring schematic?


I'll check tomorrow. From a quick search of your incredibly detailed posts at TDIclub, I found the schematic and this is what the TDI pinout should be:

Pin 1 - signal, ECU
Pin 2 - GND
Pin 3 - GND
Pin 4 - Signal Cluster


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Confirmed, Pin 1 does go to the ECU. This would be the circuit with the lower resistance of the two. 

When I measured the stock grey coolant temp sensor, it was also in the area of 2.1 kOhm at 70 deg F. I may swap the OEM coolant temp sensor back in to this location and add another coolant temp sensor tap in the hose coming out of the heater core for the gauge.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

There is newer style 4pin coolant sensor that eurowise utilizes.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Upon further tests, the coolant temp sensor you suggested from the TDI is correct. 

The ECU circuit (pins 1,3) see the same impedance as the grey 3.6 2 pin coolant sensor. (roughly 2kOhm @ 70 deg F) 
The gauge circuit (pines 2,4) see the same impedance as pins (2,4) of the 12V VR6 G2 sensor (roughly 1kOhm @ 70 deg F) 

So sounds like the cheap scan tool may be at fault...


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## andlf (Feb 6, 2008)

:thumbup: in.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Question: what is the correct way to install the thermostat on this engine? I've looked for a DIY but have been unsuccessful so far. My guess is that the unit stays in this partially compressed state when installed but thinking back, the clip on the engine facing side might have unclipped and now the unit is now allowing the tstat to open and for coolant to flow. I'm going to tear it apart to find out how I even installed it...


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

So most of the thermostats I’ve pulled have been broken or looked like a multi piece thermostat. To install it alls I remember is that there is only one way for it to go in. If you want I’ll see if I can take a part a spare tomorrow if I can find the bin, I’m moving and time it’s short and things are packed up.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> So most of the thermostats I’ve pulled have been broken or looked like a multi piece thermostat. To install it alls I remember is that there is only one way for it to go in. If you want I’ll see if I can take a part a spare tomorrow if I can find the bin, I’m moving and time it’s short and things are packed up.


Yeah If you don't mind grab a pic. I appreciate it! Good luck on the move.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Finally purchased a HEX CAN cable from Ross Tech to use a scan tool that makes sense for this car. One concern of mine was what the radiator outlet temp was when I was getting this engine shut down state after it was hot. Rad temp was ~100C which is what the cluster gauge is reading. Maybe a little high, will have to check to see if the secondary pump is running when the engine temp is up. I know the pump works if I jump the relay but not sure if the ECU is turning it on. Is there a way to test with VAG COM? 

Still getting codes for low pressure fuel and knock sensor even though the fuel sensors were replaced, so I'm going to tear down the HPFP and see what that looks like. I had also read something about maybe the fuel pump control unit being something to look at?

The problem is 100% repeatable. Engine warmed up, idle for 30-60 seconds, stumbles and dies.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

So after out ripping around in the car on a hot day I noticed that 2 of the relays were really hot when the car died:

-Load reduction relay (hot)
-ECM relay (VERY hot)

I'm thinking the ECM relay has too much current going through it or its just worn out, going to try a new one and see what happens. Load reduction relay I would expect to be warm but that might be an issue to look at as well. 

HPFP looked fine once it was removed, cam follower looked in great shape as well. Also ran the car with the aux coolant power jumped so it was running all the time. On a 90 degree day, ripping around back roads, coolant temp saw roughly 210F. If the thermostat wasn't working correctly, I think that temp would be a whole lot higher on a day like today.


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## pdcm (Mar 29, 2000)

choobs said:


> So after out ripping around in the car on a hot day I noticed that 2 of the relays were really hot when the car died:
> 
> -Load reduction relay (hot)
> -ECM relay (VERY hot)
> ...


I hope you get that sorted. You're using the relays from the donor(s) or did you find something else? Also, I might have missed it, but it looks like you've used the Passat ECU & accelerator pedal from your donor, rather than a Touareg + MK4 pedal?

:beer:


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

pdcm said:


> I hope you get that sorted. You're using the relays from the donor(s) or did you find something else?


I did not use the relays from the old car. What I am using are Tyco bosch style relays. 




> Also, I might have missed it, but it looks like you've used the Passat ECU & accelerator pedal from your donor, rather than a Touareg + MK4 pedal?
> 
> :beer:


That is correct, ECU and accelerator are from the donor car. 


I did change out the fuel pump control module but that did not fix the problem. However, the car idled better than it has yet. A used lower milage pump is on the way I should have that changed out tomorrow. Something that I thought that was interesting was when observing group 103 in VCDS the Adaptation Value for the pump started at 0 and steadily increased to 2500 and stopped. My assumption is this is the max value to adjust pressure coming from the low pressure pump and once it can no longer adjust higher, the car stalls. At least that is the current working theory anyway. 


__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


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## pdcm (Mar 29, 2000)

choobs said:


> I did not use the relays from the old car. What I am using are Tyco bosch style relays.


The getting hot part had me wondering if they're rated for continuous duty or uhh, continuous current. Just a random thought.



choobs said:


> I did change out the fuel pump control module but that did not fix the problem. However, the car idled better than it has yet. A used lower milage pump is on the way I should have that changed out tomorrow. Something that I thought that was interesting was when observing group 103 in VCDS the Adaptation Value for the pump started at 0 and steadily increased to 2500 and stopped. My assumption is this is the max value to adjust pressure coming from the low pressure pump and once it can no longer adjust higher, the car stalls. At least that is the current working theory anyway.


In the interest of getting data points to work with, when I'm out running errands tomorrow I'll grab the same data from my Passat, maybe there will be something useful to compare against.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

pdcm said:


> The getting hot part had me wondering if they're rated for continuous duty or uhh, continuous current. Just a random thought.
> 
> 
> In the interest of getting data points to work with, when I'm out running errands tomorrow I'll grab the same data from my Passat, maybe there will be something useful to compare against.


I appreciate the help! :beer:

I think the new relays are automotive grade but I can look to see if they are continuous duty or continuous current.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

So I got a low mileage LPFP and this may have been the problem all along. Group 103 now shows a stable adjustment value and the car was hot and idled for a good bit and did not stall. Nice! 

Group 103 with new pump










Some other interesting things to note about the new pump. First, lets look at the internal filter for each of them. This was probably the culprit. Its the tea bag looking thing in this pictures...

Old pump (dirty and clogged)










Not as old pump (much cleaner)










These were also both pumps from 2006 Passat 3.6s but they were different in some key areas. First off part numbers were A2C53045975 in the donor car and *A2C53045974* for the replacement. the latter has an orange clip instead of the black for the return line and the float/sending unit must work differently because the float I modified to work opposite of the donor car pump was oriented exactly like the replacement. Here are the floats:










I did not check the part numbers on the level sending unit unfortunately. But I can probably get some loose ohms ratings for full/empty. I suspect they will be flipped from some other sending units...


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## pdcm (Mar 29, 2000)

choobs said:


> So I got a low mileage LPFP and this may have been the problem all along. Group 103 now shows a stable adjustment value and the car was hot and idled for a good bit and did not stall. Nice!
> 
> Group 103 with new pump
> 
> ...


Interesting. Your numbers look totally different than what I was seeing today, but if it's working now with the other pump, that's great.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

pdcm said:


> Interesting. Your numbers look totally different than what I was seeing today, but if it's working now with the other pump, that's great.


Its VW so I almost expect wild variations with stuff like this lol Thanks for the data screenshot!


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

I had forgotten just how bad the original shiftbox/tower is on the 02a. Polo shift tower and 02J shiftbox conversation will be added to the list!


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

That internal filter has had me concerned, seems like a horrible design for long term ownership.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> That internal filter has had me concerned, seems like a horrible design for long term ownership.


I agree. Best case scenario is that a way can be found to remove that internal filter and go with an external with bundy connectors. I know the FSI/TSI 2.0's have this but there is also a fuel pressure regulator built into the filter with a return line to the tank. I don't know if a single input/output style fuel filter exists with bundy connectors but I'll admit that I haven't looked yet either.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

So looking into an external fuel filter system for the 3.6 I came across some documentation about the current fuel system:

The 3.6 pump system has a pressure relief valve built into the unit that will open at 6.4 bar. 



















However the OEM VW FSI filter has a built in FPR for 6.6 bar

https://www.shopdap.com/vw-audi-2-0-t-fuel-filter-1k0201051k-1.html

so under ideal conditions, there would never be a need for the external filter to have to return fuel to the tank. I am curious if I can simply buy a plug for the end of the return line and have it act as straight through filter...


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Oh nice, having gear box issues now. I have to double clutch in order to get any gear. After fighting my power bleeder and its dry rotted nylon hoses I bled the clutch master and slave, checked the fluid level in the trans and that took ~ 1/2 liter of gear oil but the issue persists. 

Since putting this thing back together the clutch has always engaged really low in the pedal travel but finding gears was never an issue. I hope it isn't something internal...


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Which transmission? 

If 02a what clutch line? I changed out a SS one and installed a Phenix line and it corrected my pedal from hanging up after being pushed in. The other aftermarket SS line didn’t allow for fluid to return correctly. Take a look at Noah’s: https://phenixengineering.com/shop/vw-02a-clutch-master-clutch-slave-stainless-steel-line-early/


I buy clutch master and slave cylinders from local big chains because they are relatively cheap and FAST delivery


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> Which transmission?
> 
> If 02a what clutch line? I changed out a SS one and installed a Phenix line and it corrected my pedal from hanging up after being pushed in. The other aftermarket SS line didn’t allow for fluid to return correctly. Take a look at Noah’s: https://phenixengineering.com/shop/vw-02a-clutch-master-clutch-slave-stainless-steel-line-early/
> 
> ...


I didn't replace any lines. They are all still the lines that were on the car prior to the swap. And the system worked fine. Original trans, 02a that I had Hank rebuild and install the LSD + longer 5th. I'm going to play with the linkage and make sure it is all adjusted correctly and go from there. 

I have full pedal travel and it feels fine but the engagement point is just as the pedal comes off the floor instead of mid-pedal like it used to. This is how its been since first post-swap drive though.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Took the car out on Friday after adjusting some of the shift linkage components and ended up stuck a few miles from my home with the front to back throw completely inoperable. Apparently when I was "adjusting" I loosened the bolt that holds the shift weight to the cable end to the transmission and the nut backed off and the weight fell off. Luckily I only lost the rubber cable bushing as the weight was sitting on top of the trans. Ordered up some diesel geek cable end bushings so we'l see if this helps out my gearbox issues...


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Also a tid bit of info, I made a slightly longer slave cylinder rod. I can't remember why but it wasn't much longer.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> Also a tid bit of info, I made a slightly longer slave cylinder rod. I can't remember why but it wasn't much longer.


I would have had to have measurements to understand where the flywheel sat relative to the transmission bellhousing. I'm sure there is a slight change in distance since full pedal is barely disengaging the clutch so a longer pushrod here would make sense. Did you document how much length you added? I can't imagine its more than a few millimeters...

I would have to look at the end of the pushrod but putting some adjustment in that might be an interesting project.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

choobs said:


> I would have had to have measurements to understand where the flywheel sat relative to the transmission bellhousing. I'm sure there is a slight change in distance since full pedal is barely disengaging the clutch so a longer pushrod here would make sense. Did you document how much length you added? I can't imagine its more than a few millimeters...
> 
> I would have to look at the end of the pushrod but putting some adjustment in that might be an interesting project.


I can't recall but I did it in about 30minutes with a drill, angle grinder and bench grinder using the shank of a bolt.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

1.) Made a new pushrod out of an 8mm bolt shank. Made it ~6mm longer (1/4") than the original including the nylon cap. It seems to help a lot but a few more mm is probably the sweet spot.

2.) Thinking of getting something like this so I can try and duct cooler air into the intake . 

3.) May have a lead on a mkII 1.6 airbox for an ECU enclosure!


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Excellent


I think I’ll be putting my ecu inside the car this winter for two reasons, away from water and two it frees up the intercooler spacer so I can mount an oil cooler there. A by product is that I’ll have less wires under the hood.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> Excellent
> 
> 
> I think I’ll be putting my ecu inside the car this winter for two reasons, away from water and two it frees up the intercooler spacer so I can mount an oil cooler there. A by product is that I’ll have less wires under the hood.


That'll certainly keep moisture off the ECU! Hopefully its somewhere away from the heater core if that decides to leak...

I was thinking of an oil cooler as well. I have the trans cooler from the Passat doner, it might be overkill but that oil would be far cooler than it gets now.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Finally installed this over the OEM Corrado wheel. Its probably close to period correct!


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Still having clutch issues. Engagement is still when the pedal comes right off the floor and I get far too much grinding unless I double clutch and/or get lucky. If I'm past 4000 RPM then pushing the lever into the next gear is very difficult. 

I replaced the master cylinder since the one in the car had a VW stamp and was most likely the original, no change. I did measure the swell of the rubber part of the master to slave hose and it did swell under pressure by ~ 1mm in diameter. Not sure if that is a lot or not but I am thinking of putting in a steel braided line from USP and see if this fixes the issue. 

If this doesn't fix the issue then the gear box needs to come out for further assessment. I figure $60 for a steel braided line is worth trying since further analysis is a lot more work...


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Broken pressure plate rivot/strap


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> Broken pressure plate rivot/strap


Yeah that is my fear! We'll find out soon enough


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Usually w a broken strap it wont go into gear/fully release.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

need_a_VR6 said:


> Usually w a broken strap it wont go into gear/fully release.


I went through the same troubleshooting for my broken rivot/strap when a stock pp failed 2 years ago. I’d put money on it but I hope I’m wrong. The symptoms seem very similar.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> I went through the same troubleshooting for my broken rivot/strap when a stock pp failed 2 years ago. I’d put money on it but I hope I’m wrong. The symptoms seem very similar.


Thing is, this clutch has been like this since day 1 so if a strap broke it happened immediately or before I even installed the PP. Wouldn't be the first time I've had issues with a performance clutch.

Stainless braided master/slave goes in today!


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Welp, I'll give this system another bleed and see if anything changes but its looking like the gearbox is coming back out. :thumbdown:


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

choobs said:


> Welp, I'll give this system another bleed and see if anything changes but its looking like the gearbox is coming back out. :thumbdown:



hopefully its just a bent fork


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> hopefully its just a bent fork


If it is a bent fork, seems like a lot of the upgraded options are just boxed in versions of the OEM unit. Easy enough of a fix but a PITA to wrestle the trans back out. 

I did read of a way to get the trans out by sliding the motor all the way to the passenger frame rail to get some extra room. It would save removing everything from the engine and removing the engine/trans as a single unit.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Note to self: always take the engine and trans out as a single unit. What a pain it is to just take the trans out with no room to work.

Anyway, here is a pic of the clutch fork. When I google OEM units, the strike plate doesn't look like what I have here. I also don't see a part number and I'm not sure that is normal for this part. I also see no stress cracks.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Looks fine from here


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

It’s been a very long time and I don’t recall all of the details but there are differences in clutch forks’ dimples: https://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=141405


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> It’s been a very long time and I don’t recall all of the details but there are differences in clutch forks’ dimples: https://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=141405


:thumbup: I did come across that thread while looking for clutch fork info, good stuff!

Here is the underside of mine, looks like a stock VR6 part to me.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Checked the clutch: no broken straps and the friction disc seems okay. I really have no idea what else could be the issue.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Check the step on the flywheel, should be 13mm


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> Check the step on the flywheel, should be 13mm


I measure 13.1mm of step.

I do recall that when taking the pressure plate bolts out, there were one or two that removed much easier than the rest. Not sure what impact that would have.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

.1mm I don’t think that would be huge but with so much work to pull the transmission I’d consider trying different parts. A new Sachs flywheel is $100, a new clutch fork is $xx new pressure plate bolts and so on. 

Not having to pull the transmission/drivetrain again is priceless.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

G60ING said:


> .1mm I don’t think that would be huge but with so much work to pull the transmission I’d consider trying different parts. A new Sachs flywheel is $100, a new clutch fork is $xx new pressure plate bolts and so on.
> 
> Not having to pull the transmission/drivetrain again is priceless.


I think I am going to leave the flywheel in the car, I also cannot see this being the issue but am willing to roll the dice on that part. I did order a new clutch fork and there isn't many differences between these two. The stamping for the slave pushrod is different and there is a little less material on the sides of the unit making the one on the bottom approx 1.25 ounces lighter.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Trans is back in the car, I'll button the rest of the assembly up this weekend and see if there is any difference. 

Reinforced clutch fork, welding mild steel is so much easier than stainless!


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Good news - the clutch feels like it should and engages at the top side of the pedal travel! I used the OEM length push rod and it feels great. I'm guessing that the slave cylinder had been slowly failing since I first put it together but I am glad that the clutch fork got re-enforced. :thumbup::beer:


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Congrats


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Received my O2J gear selector swap parts from Autotech and sourced the shift tower/box/cables from a mk4 golf. NICE. 

While I am in there, exhaust is getting completely redone. To get the car on the road I tied into the system that was on the car which is 2.5", necks down to 2" where the midmuffler was, and 2.5" out of the rear muffler. This was a hodge podge system thrown together with parts I had lying around and the system on the car when I got it. It'll also get a full stainless 3" exhaust the whole way come spring with V band clamps instead of the 3 bolt flanges. 

Lastly, I may try to make the car 100% emissions compliant since there is a chance I may move to California in a few years and I'd like to keep this car. So a 3" CARB legal cat is necessary, I will also attempt to swap over the EVAP system and see if I can run a single rear O2 sensor with a split return signal to the ECU since the original car had 2 rear o2 sensors. I'll make a splitter dongle and see what happens.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Very interesting


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## Row1Rich (Sep 11, 2001)

choobs said:


> see if I can run a single rear O2 sensor with a split return signal to the ECU since the original car had 2 rear o2 sensors. I'll make a splitter dongle and see what happens.


Can you confirm if this worked or not?


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Row1Rich said:


> Can you confirm if this worked or not?


When I find out I'll be sure to report back. Just picked up the cat, resonator and muffler last week. I'll get the rest of the parts and hopefully have this done by the end of February. :thumbup:


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## Row1Rich (Sep 11, 2001)

choobs said:


> When I find out I'll be sure to report back. Just picked up the cat, resonator and muffler last week. I'll get the rest of the parts and hopefully have this done by the end of February. :thumbup:


I'm in the same boat. We thought we were done with the exhaust, running just 1 pre and 1 post CAT 02 sensor (which works for 3.2 swaps), but after talking to the guys who made my harness, found out we need to run all 4 sensors for the adaption to work correctly for the 3.6. Damn


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Row1Rich said:


> I'm in the same boat. We thought we were done with the exhaust, running just 1 pre and 1 post CAT 02 sensor (which works for 3.2 swaps), but after talking to the guys who made my harness, found out we need to run all 4 sensors for the adaption to work correctly for the 3.6. Damn


My hope is that the system can be tricked by having the same O2 sensor feeding the signal line. The ECU shouldn't be looking for both sensors to be powered or grounded. All it'll care about is the heater line and the signal line. 

Returning the same signal back to the ECU should work fine. The hiccup i think is whether both heater wires can be joined together or if one heater line will need a dummy load circuit separate from the sensor.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Thats only true if the sensor is narrowband. If they are wideband they need to be wired and work completely.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Correct, and both rear 02 sensors in my car are 4 wire narrow bands. :thumbup::beer:


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Finally getting some work done. mkIV shift components installed, fairly easy swap. Only need a few clips for the cable ends to complete. However, there is some rubbing with the coolant overflow hose so I ordered a mkV Jetta one that looks much longer. Also, need to cut the gear selector shaft as its ~2" taller than the old corrado part. 

Also got exhaust stuff ready to go and started laying it all out. I have a small ESAB 95i DC inverter with a lift TIG that I want to finally learn so I'll be practicing that for a bit before doing any final welds...


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Im also happy that I get to use this shift knob again. I bought it on clearance from parts.vw.com years ago for my mkV Rabbit for $20 or so. Even though its a 6 speed knob, I don't care. It looks rad!


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## 92corrado32L (Nov 19, 2019)

choobs said:


> Finally getting some work done. mkIV shift components installed, fairly easy swap. Only need a few clips for the cable ends to complete. However, there is some rubbing with the coolant overflow hose so I ordered a mkV Jetta one that looks much longer. Also, need to cut the gear selector shaft as its ~2" taller than the old corrado part.


dieselgeek sigma 5 shifter will eliminate the tall shift weight, clear up some space :thumbup:


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

92corrado32L said:


> dieselgeek sigma 5 shifter will eliminate the tall shift weight, clear up some space :thumbup:


On the list for the future! At the time, I made some adjustments for everything to clear. The new mkv Jetta coolant tank line is ~6" longer than the mkIV diesel one I was using and doesn't interfere with the shift cables, nice! I did install the rear 02 sensor but haven't played with combining the signals from one sensor to feed both ECU inputs but I'll be getting to that shortly. 

Finished the exhaust, the wookie is alive! And the 02J shift linkage upgrades are worth their weight in gold.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Congrats, nice job


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Now that the exhaust is done, the rear O2 sensor problem has been addressed. For correct operation you will need to combine the 2 four wire 02 sensor plugs in the wiring loom as such. For reference, I used the brown plug. 

Pin 2 of the O2 plug -> T94/7 & T94/29 (brown/white -> brown/white + black/white)
Pin 3 of the O2 plug -> T94/76 & T94/54 (white -> white + white)
Pin 4 of the O2 plug -> T94/77 & T94/55 (green -> green + green)

Pin 1 of the O2 plug white/red wire is +12V from the fuse box which your O2 sensor already has if you wired it in to your fuse panel. 

As you can see below, the ECU believes there are 2 sensors, tested and passed. 











Up next, Leak detection pump!


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

Finally addressing the cooling issues. Mocal 13 row 235 matrix oil cooler and thermotstatic sandwich plate. Also added a 5.25" fan in addition to a deeper 12" main fan. Main fan is tied to the low side temp switch and the teeny tiny fan to the high side. Combined can pull ~1600 CFM.

Also switched to the 3.6 secondary water pump. The unit is about half the size and weighs much less. Not a lot of room in here!

Didn't get to do a full test today but that should happen this week. First warm up I did have some oil seepage from one of the right angle AN fittings so it got a little extra torque


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

A few updates.

1.) Cooling systems upgrades aren't leaking and operating as expected! I need to give it a stress test in the summer but so far so good.

2.) Malone tune was 10% off last weekend so the ECU is in transit to ECS for a flash. +10% power is nice but I'm really curious of the drivability differences, hopefully the rev hang is eliminated.

3.) Almost done with adapting the leak detection pump. The passat charcoal filter is probably 3x the size of the Corrado unit so I ditched it and will test a hybrid system with the Passat LDP and Corrado charcoal canister. Luckily the only room in the engine bay is next to the canister so everything fits pretty well!

The SLC has a basic fuel vapor system in the car from the factory. You have the gravity valve at the fuel filler neck and that routes through a nylon tube to the front of the car. What the LDP will do is pressurize the whole system from the N80 valve to the fuel tank and over time the ECU will check the pressure level and determine if there are any leaks in the system. So to adapt the Passat LDP to the Corrado system I am installing a T fitting in the fuel vapor line that is coming from the fuel tank so the LDP can pressurize the system.










For the below picture

Green arrow: output of the LDP
Red arrow: tube from the gravity valve/fuel tank
Yellow arrow: Tube to the charcoal filter

You can see a fatter tube coming out of the charcoal filter in the above picture, that routes to the N80 valve.


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

So through my testing of the EVAP system I did find that the fuel tank seal between the level sending unit and the tank was not sealing properly. I ended up making my own gasket from a sheet of 1/16" buna-n silicone. The gasket ends up sitting on top of the sending unit and is pinched by the plastic tank cap. You MIGHT get away with using 1/8" but because the gasket spaces the plastic cap away from the sending unit, the fuel line quick connect may not line up anymore. 1/16th inch thick works fine though.

I didn't comb the Grainger or McMaster-Carr catalogs for an off the shelf solution. But the dimensions of my gasket are OD 4 15/16", ID 4 1/16". After fitting the gasket the EVAP system now works properly!

Link to the buna-a silicone sheet


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## choobs (Jul 4, 2016)

A few months back I had an issue where the car just quit and would not start back up. A bit of testing led me to not getting 12v at the fuel pump so I started investigating everything in that signal path. What I found was a big face palm. 

When I got the relays I has assumed they were all the same. So I looked at the diagram on the side and the switched connection output could either be in the middle of the relay slot or the typical 87 slot on the outside edge of the connector. I thought this was nice so I could split power output directly from the relay and not have to combine too many wires into the crimp connectors. 

Well only ONE of the relays had the useable center and outside output tabs. The other three were SPDT with only the middle tab as the switched path! This meant that ECU power #2 and the secondary coolant pump weren't working at all and I have no idea how the fuel pump was working as it's power wasn't correct either. 

Anyway, read your relay diagrams kids. Car has been running really solid lately, coolant temp stays at 190F and oil temp rarely goes above 210F!


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