# audi tt 225 bilstein pss



## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2002/audi/tt_quattro/suspension/suspension_kit.html 

they are selling for 940... 

ive never seen em so low. 

any comments? im considering this or the 699 GB thread with HPA.


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

wow, that is pretty damn cheap. there have been a couple of threads in the last few months discussing the pros and cons of Bilstein, H&R, Koni, etc.... Probably best to read through those before the forum goes crazy again. :laugh:


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## beeyond (Oct 6, 2008)

*low prices*

$32.00 Off Plus Free Shipping on Orders over $399.00 
Get $32.00 off plus free shipping on orders over $399.00 by entering coupon code APWHOLIDAY3 at checkout. Exclusions apply. 
Visit Website for Details 
More Coupons for this Retailer: 
Get $24.00 off plus free shipping on orders over $299.00 by entering coupon code APWHOLIDAY2 at checkout. Exclusions apply. - Link 
Get $16.00 off plus free shipping on orders over $199.00 by entering coupon code APWHOLIDAY1 at checkout. Exclusions apply. - Link 
Take 10% off your entire order Enter code APWCART at checkout - Link 

selling for $879.95 - 10% $88.00 = $791.95 + Free Shipping 

I do not like this company at all but that is a good price autopartswarehouse.com 

L8R.... I personally am old school "Yellow Koni"


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

those codes are all expired


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

well, i ordered the bilstein pss for 850 shipped. autopartswarehouse.com 
use cupon code stpatrick or something like that for 10% off....nice


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

check it out, they came in!
850 shipped, brand new. this seems like an awesome deal.cant wait until i put them in.


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## M this 1! (May 17, 2000)

the suspension rules! i ran the 9's for 65k. zero problems. measure your axle to fender now. should be 14" and lower no more than 1" to keep within geometric correctness. the car is going to rail!! it's been awhile, but i think the fronts are 5 full revolutions on the threads from the VERY bottom. it helps the paint the insides of one notch on every black collar (4 total of course) so you can do changes on the height and not be lost on what exact changes were made. i also would do a dot on the shocks to have a reference point. her's my car 1" down:

If you don't absolutely love a great handling car, then you can go lower.


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## tdor (Dec 2, 2004)

M this 1! said:


> the suspension rules! i ran the 9's for 65k. zero problems. measure your axle to fender now. should be 14" and lower no more than 1" to keep within geometric correctness. the car is going to rail!! it's been awhile, but i think the fronts are 5 full revolutions on the threads from the VERY bottom. it helps the paint the insides of one notch on every black collar (4 total of course) so you can do changes on the height and not be lost on what exact changes were made. i also would do a dot on the shocks to have a reference point. her's my car 1" down:
> 
> If you don't absolutely love a great handling car, then you can go lower.


I had ps they handled nicely but the bumps do hurt


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

tdor said:


> I had ps they handled nicely but the bumps do hurt


Oh so the suspention felt the way it should in a sporty car


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## M this 1! (May 17, 2000)

The bumps hurt?? you mean like in your breasts?


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

FINALLY put in the rears.

the bilstein shock is a few inches shorter than the oem.
front to be done this week.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

speed51133! said:


> http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2002/audi/tt_quattro/suspension/suspension_kit.html
> 
> they are selling for 940...
> 
> ...


They are much better coilovers than the GB ones you are considering. 
The PSS are based on the same inverted monotubes that are on the pss9, H&R street and RSS clubsports so they are in a league of their own!


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

i did the fronts with in my apartment high rise garage with nothing more than the stock jack, jack stands, 1/2in wratchet, a set of 1/2in metric sockets, allen wrench, spark plug socket (with rubber inside pulled out of the socket), a screw driver, coil spring compressors, 1/2in screw driver socket, and a crescent wrench.

i then returned the jack stands, coil spring compressors, and sockets, so i did not really spend much on the instal.

I did not unbolt the axle. I undid the tie rod endby spinning the rod and leaving the end pressed in the knuckle. i unbolted the knuckle from the control arm, and undid the top bolt of the shock with a spark plug socket, allen wrench and crescent wrench. the spark plug socket has a hex shape on the end that allowed the crescent wrench to turn it. I spread the pinch bolt with a 1/2in standard screw driver socket that was like 5$. It worked, but was kind of a bitch. get the right tool for 20$. I then had to just pull, push and stand on the control arm to get the space while using the spring compressors just right.


alignment hasnt been done, will soon. drives fairley straight. tires need replacment anyways so not worried about it.


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## murTTer (Jun 27, 2009)

Ive had PSS's for almost 2 years now.. good suspension for the price, Ive heard nothing but problems and disappointment w the PSS-9 so glad I went more cost effective and got the PSS.. I do wish they went lower but theyre good for a good sport suspension and something u can use on street and track.. just dont plan on tucking tire, w 17's anyway.


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## beetlevdubn (Apr 25, 2005)

speed51133! said:


> i did the fronts with in my apartment high rish garage with nothing more than the stock jack, jack stands, 1/5in wratchet, a set of 1/2in metric sockets, allen wrench, spark plug socket (with rubber inside pulled out and a socket), a screw driver, coil spring compressors, 1/2in screw driver socket, and a crescent wrench.
> 
> i then returned the jack stands, coil spring compressors, and sockets, so i did not really spend much on the instal.
> 
> ...


Wow, you know that you can actually leave everything connected, open the pinch section of the knuckle, and the whole strut assembly just lifts out of the knuckle. There is no need to undo the tie rod, the knuckle or anything. Really, the only extra thing is to undo both sway bar links on each side, which allows the lower control arm to drop lower. The last 1/4" of the strut is tight, as the strut assembly gets bound a bit, between the body and the knuckle, but pushing down hard on the knuckle gives you the room you need. 

If you have a spare 6mm allen socket, you can grind down two parallel sides, to make an oblong bit to release the pinch bolt, it worked perfectly for my install, as it already has the 3/8" socket attached. Slide it in, twist 90 degrees, and you are golden.

I definitely give you an A+ for enginuity/creativity given the tools you had at your disposal.


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

i forgot to mention the sway bar link was ALSO removed. the assembly would not drop low enough. it wouldnt work. maybe if i had a helper....but i doubt it. there was just not enough room to pull the strut up and out of the pinch bolt. i had to get more room by bringing it lower than the control arm would allow.

the bentley tells you to remove the axle.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Or you can simply unbolt both bolts on that side of the subframe. Much easier than removing the axle. I've used the spark plug socket on the strut top for years. :thumbup:


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

completley remove them? does this allow it to sag a bit and other bolts hold it up? do you have to support the subframe still?


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

If you only remove the two bolts on one side at a time, it'll sag enough to give you enough clearance to get the strut out. You don't even have to take them all the way out. Tighten up that side, then repeat on the other. No need to support the subframe while doing this, or else it wouldn't sag and you wouldn't accomplish much.


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