# How to Reinstall the Leather Transmission Shift Lever?



## CLMims (Jul 13, 2007)

If you've ever read through the Keyless Start Retrofit post (http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1683482)and gotten to this step:
"27) Putting the shift lever cover back on is difficult. It’s the type of thing that someone has to show you how to do, otherwise, you will get really frustrated trying to attempt it, and probably wind up breaking a very expensive part in the Tiptronic mechanism in the process. Just drive the car to your dealer without the cover in place (you can lift up on the plastic stick to release the shift lock), and ask the Phaeton technician at your dealership to install it for you. It’s the same part on both the Touareg and the Phaeton, so it’s safe to assume your technician has done it before..."
Here is the "official" steps to re-install the selector handle; it is still pretty vague, so I would still take it to the dealer if you were still feeling hesitant!
(I have a pdf file but did not know how to attach it to this post)











_Modified by CLMims at 2:24 PM 12-7-2007_


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Selector Handle Reinstall - Instructions (CLMims)*

Hi Chris:
The procedure described in the image you attached works, but it only works if you have a brand-new shift lever grip that comes with the 'assembly aid' present.
If you are re-installing a shift lever grip, you need to pull the silver push-button out to about 120% of its normal extension before removing the grip. This will keep the button locked in the hyper-extended position and make installation easier.
If the button retracts fully when the shift lever is removed (as it normally does), there is a technique to getting it back out and into the hyper-extended position. It is difficult to describe this technique by text, and almost impossible to take the photos needed to illustrate it.
Michael


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## W126C (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: Selector Handle Reinstall - Instructions (PanEuropean)*

Chris,
Have you removed your shifter? If you have, IM me and I will try to talk you through it over the phone. Michael is right, I don't think I could put it into words that someone could follow. It is not that hard to do. 
Regards,
Brent


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## CLMims (Jul 13, 2007)

*Re: Selector Handle Reinstall - Instructions (W126C)*

Hi all,
thanks for the replies; I have not removed my shifter (yet), but I was thinking of doing the push-button start kit and this last step seemed a bit frightening - so I dug around out on the BentleyPublishers.com site and thought I would share my findings...
Michael, I agree that the reinstall instructions regarding the push-button are pretty hard to grasp, especially without the "assembly aid", which I assume is a clip that holds the button in the correct position when installing. Is there some sort of membrane that holds the button in the handle (can you "blow" the button out to the correct position for reinstalling?)
(From the online Repair guide:
"If the handle is being replaced, under no circumstances remove the assembly aid of the new handle. - - [Paldi, I think this is the clip on the button you were asking me about]
If the button is inadvertently pressed into the handle, hold handle vertically and at the bottom (!). Carefully blow button outwards again using compressed air until it can be pulled out over the pressure point by hand.
Re-install new assembly aid (enclosed with new handle).
Push in clip.
Press selector into handle again.
Place selector lever in position "N" .


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## Gobuster (May 19, 2005)

*Re: Selector Handle Reinstall - Instructions (CLMims)*

When replacing the shifter, be very careful to line up the selector sensor board that the base of the shifter passes through. If you press down on the shifter without making sure it has properly engaged the board, you will break the board and have to buy a new one.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Selector Handle Reinstall - Instructions (Gobuster)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Gobuster* »_*When replacing the shifter, be very careful to line up the selector sensor board that the base of the shifter passes through. If you press down on the shifter without making sure it has properly engaged the board, you will break the board and have to buy a new one.* 

I can't find a way of emphasizing that point strongly enough - if the forum software allowed for 100 point size type, I'd probably make Robert's quote that big.
I have always installed these shift lever covers in two steps, one piece at a time. First I will install the chrome piece at the bottom (by itself) by very gently lowering it into the hole, making extra-super-special certain that it fits precisely through the sliding plate that is below the dust cover that you can put your finger on. Then, once I have this chrome part in position, I will install the shift lever grip.
The business of "twisting" the shift lever grip 90 degrees, as shown in the illustration, is new to me. I have never done this. Once I get that chrome pushbutton on the grip hyper-extended, I just gently slide the whole grip straight down. However - I always line up the little pawl in the inside of the grip (way up at the top) first, using a dental tool. It is possible that the 90 degree maneuver that VW suggests may facilitate pawl alignment if you have not already done that.
Below is a photo of the sliding plate that you cannot see when you install the chrome base. This is the part that you do not want to break. If you break it, it is about $200 to replace that whole circuit board assembly. This sliding plate is very fragile in the vertical axis and will not tolerate vertical pressure when installing the chrome base of the shift lever.
Michael


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## JA Dub (May 18, 2010)

*Can't Get Shift Handle Back On - Help*

I pulled my shift handle off and accidentally pushed the button. Can't get the handle back on. 
I saw a post on taking the handle off and it said if you push the knob see Michaels's post. 
Can't find the post. 

Please point me to the post or if anyone knows how to put the handle back on please help.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Have a look at this (rather lengthy) "how to do it" post: Retrofitting Keyless Start to Phaetons that are equipped with Keyless Entry. Towards the end of the explanation of how to put everything back together, you will find details about how to re-install the shift lever. 

Be very careful when you are re-fitting it - you do not want to break a small sliding plate that is found underneath the fascia. 

Michael


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## JA Dub (May 18, 2010)

*Post says take it to the dealer.*

The post says 

27) Putting the shift lever cover back on is difficult. It’s the type of thing that someone has to show you how to do, otherwise, you will get really frustrated trying to attempt it, and probably wind up breaking a very expensive part in the Tiptronic mechanism in the process. Just drive the car to your dealer without the cover in place (you can lift up on the plastic stick to release the shift lock), and ask the Phaeton technician at your dealership to install it for you.


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## CLMims (Jul 13, 2007)

*Maybe this will help:*

Kinda hard to read in this pic, but the caption states: 

"If the button is inadvertently pressed into the handle, hold handle vertically and at the bottom; Carefully blow button outwards again using compressed air until it can be pulled out over the pressure point by hand." 












Bigger shot of step 3:


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## JA Dub (May 18, 2010)

*Thanks, it worked*

Got the shift knob back on. I tried blowing on the end to push the button out, this did not push the button out. I looked in the end and used along screw driver to push back the metal pin- this pushed the button out. I inserted the shift knob on the shaft, perpendicular to the final position, turned the shift knob toward the driver, slid the shift knob down the shaft far enough to insert the pin - and presto! job done. 

Thanks for the great post. The forum is fantastic.


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## Phaeton2 (May 18, 2013)

*How do you reinstall leather shifter handle?*

Hi, I removed the leather shifter lever and can't figure how to reinstall it. The button is depressed on the lever. I'm not sure if I did that when I removed it or if it did it automatically. I read that you need to be careful when reinstalling it to prevent damage to the tiptronic position sensing switch. I believe this is just being careful that the plastic plate and sliding rubber cover are aligned. Suggestions?


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

There's a thread about this if you do a search. I don't have a link to it, but I remember it explains about how to do the button.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Steve,

The manual describes how to replace the gear selector as below. However, Michael (PanEuropean) has written that there is a distinct 'knack' to this, and if your friendly local tech has experience then he will quickly do the job without damaging the shift slider mechanism, which is the risk.

You will note that there is a comment about what to do if the button is accidentally pressed in before the refit is complete.

There is another comment that the switch slider mechanism below the handle breaks very easily. There are quite a few posts reporting broken sliders. The part is relatively expensive.

Chris




















image (c) volkswagen


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Steve:

See post #4 (last paragraph) and #52 (on page 2) at this discussion : Retrofitting Keyless Start to Phaetons that are equipped with Keyless Entry

Also see this post for additional background information: Can't Get Shift Handle Back On - Help

I've appended your recent post onto two earlier conversations - one from 2007, one from 2010 - that raise exactly the same question. So, there might be some additional information further up in this post.

Michael


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## Phaeton2 (May 18, 2013)

I think I understand from the directions given with the exception of how to remove the chrome base from the leather shifter. Is there any possibility of damaging this part? 

I understand how the plastic piece above the shifter can be broken. I'll make sure they are aligned and use zero force to installing. It should slide on without any force. Has anyone tried to JB weld the plastic piece back together when it broke? I've used JB weld numerous times. For instance when removing the wood from the leather shifter the two plastic tabs broke of the wood. The plastic gets brittle with age. Your almost guaranteed you’re going to break something when pulling apart these plastic snap tabs. 

What does the 90 degree turn accomplish? I would like to understand that so if I have difficulty I know when to stop before breaking something (unless it is impossible to break something during the 90 degree turn with the button out).


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Phaeton2 said:


> I think I understand from the directions given with the exception of how to remove the chrome base from the leather shifter. Is there any possibility of damaging this part?


No. Just gently wiggle the chrome bit at the bottom and it should separate downwards. It's held onto the leather part by two little plastic tangs on either side of the chrome bit (in other words, the two tangs are at the top of the chrome bit, on the 'short sides' of the chrome bit').



Phaeton2 said:


> I understand how the plastic piece above the shifter can be broken. I'll make sure they are aligned and use zero force to installing.


The real trick is to just gently lower the chrome bit (without the leather piece attached) down the hole in the sliding part that keeps dirt out of the slot, and then further down into the hole in the sliding plate. Bring an old-fashioned kid's school pencil with an eraser on the end with you, you can use that to manipulate the two parts with the holes (the dirt cover on top, and the sliding plate below) so that they are lined up. Then just drop the chrome bit in. It helps to have a flashlight or worklight with you when you do this.



Phaeton2 said:


> Has anyone tried to JB weld the plastic piece back together when it broke? I've used JB weld numerous times.


I don't think anyone has tried, but it sounds like an interesting idea. Have a really close look at that sliding plate to determine what kind of plastic it is.



Phaeton2 said:


> For instance when removing the wood from the leather shifter the two plastic tabs broke of the wood. The plastic gets brittle with age. You're almost guaranteed you’re going to break something when pulling apart these plastic snap tabs.


Yeah, but that 'wood' on the face of the leather shifter - the bit with the engine size (V8, W12, etc. on it) is styrene, and the sliding plate is an entirely different type of plastic. By the way, there is a guy on eBay selling brand new 'wood' bits for the face of the leather shifter, I think for $10. They are OEM VW parts, just 'old stock'. I think he only has walnut wood, though. I bought one a few months ago just for spare stock purposes.



Phaeton2 said:


> What does the 90 degree turn accomplish? I would like to understand that so if I have difficulty I know when to stop before breaking something (unless it is impossible to break something during the 90 degree turn with the button out).


Let me try and make a movie about how to do it. Gimme a day or so...

Michael


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## Phaeton2 (May 18, 2013)

I haven't installed it yet, but I understand what I'm doing. Some tips. 

1) remove the chrome piece by rocking it back and forth slowly. Gently pull. The back and forth motion is side to side (if the shifter is oriented in the installed position this rocking is left to right not front to back). There are two plastic hooks securing the chrome piece. This could be broken easily, so don't get too aggressive.

2) If you don't have compressed air you can pull out the button on the leather shifter use an "L" shape pick. Don't blow inside the handle...it won't work and you'll feel like you just sucked on a toad...funky chemicals inside. Shine a flashlight inside of the leather handle. You will see an shinny metal post which is in line with the push button on the same side as the push button. It protrudes out about an 1/8". You will also see a 1/2" long hook that looks like a tuning fork. The 1/2" long hook is not the part, but will be discussed later. Take your "L" pick and press on the 1/8" shinny metal post until the chrome button cannot come out any more. 

3) It will be almost impossible to hold the button out. Take some 3M blue painter tape and wrap around chrome button. Add a 2" long tail with the tape. This will make it easy to hold the button out. Don't rely on the tape to hold the button in the out position without you gripping the button. You don't want the button to retract and wedge the blue tape into the button assembly. 

4) The 1/2" long hook that looks like a tuning fork is designed to go around the thin vertical plastic which extends past the steel shifter base which is installed on the floor of the car. If you look at the thin vertical plastic piece it has a long slot in it. It looks like the hollow head of a needle which you insert thread into. Basically the 90 degree turning movement is "threading" the 1/2" hook in the top of the leather shifter into the plastic slot "needle head" coming from the floor.



So my question is: How far does the chrome button need to be pulled out? I can pull it out about 3/8" and I meet heavy resistance. I can't pull it out further. For some reason, I thought the temporary button holder (which comes with new part) was inserted into a slot in the button but I can't find one. Is the temporary button holder actually some type of wedge that fits around the button and is jammed into the chrome trim?


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Phaeton2 said:


> It will be almost impossible to hold the button out.


Actually, that is not the case at all. There is a trick: Pull the button a little farther out than normal, and it will lock in the 'out' position.

Michael


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

What were the design engineers thinking of? :screwy:

It's a 'switch'. It's not the launch release for a $10 billion moon shot! Some push buttons and a little piece of interlock software (that's in there in any case) would have done the job! I have never seen so much intricate discussion required for something so petty...

I can almost smell the legislation that required the magnetic interlock and two-wiper fail-detect contacts. The designers must have thrown up their hands that Friday afternoon, rushed out the door at 3:30 and gone skiing for the weekend.

CB


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## Phaeton2 (May 18, 2013)

Got it locked. Wait a pain. The trick is not to press on the metal post which protrudes out an 1/8" but to stick your "L" pick into the groove of the 1/2" long fork and lift up (which is actually down in the installed position) on the fork. It will raise it and at the same time pull on the button. Earlier, I tried to stick a screw driver into this same location and push out and I could get the button to budge. Pushing the 1/8" metal post might of worked but the length of my "L" pick was not long enough perhaps. Note, you know if the button is pulled out farther enough as you will see 3 slots in the button.

Once you pull the button out the 1/2" long fork retracts out of the way fully. That little piece does go into the thin vertical plastic "needle head" but the fork is retracted so much that I have no clue why the 90 degree turn is required, but I'm going to do it anyway. Thanks so much.


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## Phaeton2 (May 18, 2013)

I can't get the U shaped retaining clip to fit after the shifter is lowered into position. Is the U shaped clip installed before it is lowered into place? 

Also, the tiptronic sensor is now working intermitantly. I didn't break the plastic, but sometimes the Park, Reverse, Neutral, Drive, Sport Icons don't change. Instead there is a solid rectangule around them. At other times, it works normal. Is there some trick here causing the intermitant fault? How do you align the tiptronic plastic piece? Just so your aware, I've been trying to modify the shifter led board to power a 12 V trigger for my backup camera so I may of fried something in the process. I'm hoping this is not the case, because my problems occured immediately after I reinstalled the shifter and wood shifter cover (the led board was removed for testing however). The white LED's are not lighting and I'm not getting power to certain areas of the board. Also power from the tiptronic board to the LED has changed from my prior measured values. Hoping I didn't screw both of these up.

This is the code for the tiptronic

Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 09L-927-760.lbl
Part No SW: 09L 927 760 A HW: GS1 9.0 4.1 
Component: AG6 09L 4,2L V8 0901 
Coding: 0001102
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 356FD6A55F03F5B6781-5102

1 Fault Found:
18161 - Tiptronic Switch (F189) 
P1753 - 000 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 736 /min
RPM: 704 /min
RPM: 0 /min
(no units): 23.0
(no units): 27.0
Temperature: 67.0°C
T.B. Angle: 0.0°
Voltage: 13.20 V

Ross tech says

18161/P1753 - Tiptronic Switch (F189)

18161/P1753 - Tiptronic Switch (F189): Implausible Signal
Possible Symptoms
Gear position (PRINDLE) positions on dash are all illuminated
Transmission will not shift manually when slid into the +/- selection
Possible Causes
Wiring problem
Tiptronic switch F189 faulty
Tiptronic magnet housing alignment problem
Possible Solutions
Check wiring and connections according as per wiring diagram(s)
Check Tiptronic Recognition Measuring Blocks. (MB 002 on 01J trans)
Check Tiptronic switch F189
Special Notes
When found in the Audi A4/S4/RS4/Cabriolet (8E/8H) CVT 6-Speed Automatic Transmission (01J/Multitronic):
Check adjustment of selector lever cable as per repair manual.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Phaeton2 said:


> I can't get the U shaped retaining clip to fit after the shifter is lowered into position. Is the U shaped clip installed before it is lowered into place?


It's easiest to do it afterwards.



Phaeton2 said:


> I didn't break the plastic, but sometimes the Park, Reverse, Neutral, Drive, Sport Icons don't change. Instead there is a solid rectangle around them.


See this discussion for more background information about what is causing that: Transmission (any version) - PRNDS lights up in display

Michael


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## Phaeton2 (May 18, 2013)

I broke the little spacers on the plastic tiptronic plate. There are 3 spacers around the opening where the shifter slides through. I didn't notice that until now. I think I pulled the shifter off when it wasn't in neutral. So please follow the directions exactly if you want to avoid breaking the plate. I would also warn people of leaving the chrome piece of the shifter in place without the leather handle. If you look at the bottom of the chrome piece there are 3 notches which aligns with the location of the 3 spacers on the tiptronic plate. If they don't align, you could also break the spacers. This shifter install is very tricky.

I glued the broken spacers using "plastic welder" by Versachem. You can buy it at NAPA. My girlfriends father is a mechanic/body guy and he claims this is the best stuff for gluing plastics. One of the little spacers was missing so I replicated it using the tip of a zip tie. I shifter indicator on the dash shows P, R, N but once I hit D it looses sync and I get a bar lighting up over P,R,N,D,S. When the car is shifting into D it is exactly when the tiptronic plate goes from contacting at the rear of the opening in the tiptronic plate to the front of the opening of the tiptronic plate. If anyone has a picture of the little spacers this would be of great use.

I might of broken the tiptronic electronics anyhow trying to tap into the shifter LED for a backup camera. That could be the problem. Not sure. I know the problem immediately happened after reinstalling the shifter and wood trim. Leads me to believe the little broken plastic spacers is the cause of the problem. Any other tips?


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## johnnyjiang (Feb 24, 2014)

Freakin Boston Volkswagen charges 118 dollars to put it back on.....


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

johnnyjiang said:


> Freakin Boston Volkswagen charges 118 dollars to put it back on.....


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## Paldi (Sep 4, 2004)

I always wanted to install my Bentley shifter (photo-shopped here) but stopped short due to the difficulties highlighted in this thread. Does anyone want to give it a try?


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## Bindaham (Apr 4, 2014)

Does any one know the part number for the transmission lever trim which is depicted in the upper first illustration with a screw driver getting it out?







Regards,

Salah


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

The part number suffix changes depending on the type of wood.


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## ravenflies (Oct 31, 2013)

Salah,

*Different wood trim*









*Found this little interresting thing in the system next to the trim parts even with a photo of a real part. Is there something I should know, Passat W8 owner as I am?*









/Lennart


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## Bindaham (Apr 4, 2014)

Many thanks Josh & Lennart


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

Anybody notice in the Transparent Factory promo video posted today at this thread , the quick scene with the shift lever install? It's at 1 min 36 sec in.


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## marcjs (Mar 13, 2016)

Phaetonlvr said:


> Anybody notice in the Transparent Factory promo video posted today at this thread , the quick scene with the shift lever install? It's at 1 min 36 sec in.


Shows how marketing folks can bend reality...doesn't the manual show the rotation to go counter-clockwise???


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## marcjs (Mar 13, 2016)

*Seemingly Impossible*

Resurrected this thread since I pulled the shifter handle on my '04 V8 to inspect shift-plate/switch. All was fine, but I gave the hall-effect switch a clean for good-measure.

Struggling with reassembling the handle as just like those who've tried before me...all seemed fine until the button snapped completely inward. I've since been playing the guessing-game of how far out the button needs to be pulled. The chromed button even pulled off the underlying plug, which may be a blessing since I can now grab ahold of one of its webs to pull it out and hold onto it.

Does anyone have a good picture of what the pawls should look like inside the handle when button is in the "120%" extended position? Here's what mine looks like (very had to photograph since it's fairly deep):


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## johnnyjiang (Feb 24, 2014)

I just installed a brand new shift lever on my car. When the new lever came, the red plastic that was holding the button in place was snapped off so of course the button was retracted in. I then tried many times either blow it and pull, or use a stick trying to push the button out and it finally worked. You have to play with it a little bit. As I remember, when the button was out, I could not see that tip from the bottom. It makes sense because that tip has to go through the hole on the shifter base. Once you get the correct movement, the button should be able to pull out into the extend position with no extra force. You should be able to see some holes under the button if the button is in the extended position. Those holes were for the stopper.


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## rmcclain54 (Sep 2, 2012)

I too succumbed to this. I've had the shifter handle off several times, no problem. This time I pulled the button out, removed handle, did what I meant to do and when putting the thing back on, bumped the button and it snapped fully in. So I understand what must be done, but the 90° thing doesn't seem possible. I have the button pulled out and secured with tape, but there are 2 pins inside the handle that fit in slots on the metal shaft which positions it port to starboard. If you put in on the shaft fore to aft, ie 90° off it can only go in till the pins hit the top of the shaft, which isn't far enough. Has anyone done this? What sort of sorcery did it require? :banghead:

Bob


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## johnnyjiang (Feb 24, 2014)

I got in it withour rotating. i just made sure everything lined up and button was out, then gave it a firm push and it was in.


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## rmcclain54 (Sep 2, 2012)

johnnyjiang said:


> I got in it withour rotating. i just made sure everything lined up and button was out, then gave it a firm push and it was in.


Perhaps I have broken it. I can't budge the metal bit. Pulling the button out, using a screw driver, everything I could think off.... I think it moves up and down (which is expected) but can't get it to move out of the way no matter how far out I pull the button. Might have to buy a new one.











I have tugged the button so much its chrome cover pulled off, leaving it easier to hold.


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## Naykul (Aug 8, 2016)

*Phaeton gear shifter*

Hi mate. Can you explain me how to refit my shifter cover back. I looked off, button is fully inside and I cannot refit back. I managed to get the button out using a screwdriver but the don't stay out, how I take fingers from it goes back in. And when it's fully out I couldn't engage the mechanism


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## rmcclain54 (Sep 2, 2012)

Naykul said:


> Hi mate. Can you explain me how to refit my shifter cover back. I looked off, button is fully inside and I cannot refit back. I managed to get the button out using a screwdriver but the don't stay out, how I take fingers from it goes back in. And when it's fully out I couldn't engage the mechanism


The search function is infuriating. I have posted nearly 200 posts and the search only shows me 8! 

I figured this out and posted my findings and others gave a thumbs up, etc. So where the eff is the post?

Sorry, I will continue searching and if I can't find it will try to explain the solution. As quickly as I can..

bob


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## rmcclain54 (Sep 2, 2012)

Found it, but not through the search function here, but searching my gmail notifications from vortex. ARGGGGH


https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthr...e-Mystery-Revealed!&p=105944202#post105944202

This explains what I found and how to do it. Let me know if you have any questions. I feel there is a picture missing ... the metal "yawl" (don't know what to call it) moves out of the way when the button is just right. Read carefully and hopefully you will get the idea.

Good luck.

bob


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