# Best Amp to Power 2 12" Alpine Type R's



## eurotuner 06 (Jul 30, 2004)

Just bought a pair of 12" Alpine Type R's. Ready to do some work and piss people off. I need some advice on what amp or amp/head unit combination would be best to power them and make they work at their full capacity. I don't know **** about car stereos except that subs = loud and bad ass.


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## BlackCC (Apr 26, 2009)

*Re: Best Amp to Power 2 12" Alpine Type R's (eurotuner 06)*

I have a set of those, and i've got a Monoblock 2400watt amp - pulls 120amps, and it bumped hard in my jetta, vibrated out my tailights and liscense plate screws regularly
I beleive they're 500watts rms or 1500watt peak each, so get a monoblock amp that can provide power in that range


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## bass_4_ever (Dec 6, 2007)

*Re: Best Amp to Power 2 12" Alpine Type R's (eurotuner 06)*

I'd go with an Alpine 9886 for a head-unit. I've had many head units from many makes and so far that alpine takes the win. 4v outputs so ur amp gets nice power from the deck. As for an amp, any amp around 1000 watts RMS (not peak) would do. Polk Audio makes great amps, as well as kenwoods and even Alpine.


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## vdubnick (Nov 29, 2004)

*Re: Best Amp to Power 2 12" Alpine Type R's (bass_4_ever)*


_Quote, originally posted by *eurotuner 06* »_Just bought a pair of 12" Alpine Type R's. Ready to do some work and piss people off. I need some advice on what amp or amp/head unit combination would be best to power them and make they work at their full capacity. I don't know **** about car stereos except that subs = loud and bad ass.









sounds like it will be a ghetto install.
how are you going to match them to an amplifier without knowing the VC ratings? (2ohmdvc? or 4ohmdvc?) 


_Quote, originally posted by *BlackCC* »_I have a set of those, and i've got a Monoblock 2400watt amp - pulls 120amps, and it bumped hard in my jetta, vibrated out my tailights and liscense plate screws regularly
I beleive they're 500watts rms or 1500watt peak each, so get a monoblock amp that can provide power in that range


Why would you chose a monoblock? He hasnt even stated if they are dual 2's or dual 4's 
And 120 amps at your vehicles max output voltage (14.4vdc) would only be about 1700 watts RMS, not 2400. and thats if the amp is @ 100% efficiency. so you probably run about 1500rms or less, which is still a lot, but nowhere close to 2400


_Quote, originally posted by *bass_4_ever* »_I'd go with an Alpine 9886 for a head-unit. I've had many head units from many makes and so far that alpine takes the win. 4v outputs so ur amp gets nice power from the deck. As for an amp, any amp around 1000 watts RMS (not peak) would do. Polk Audio makes great amps, as well as kenwoods and even Alpine.

How would 4v outputs give more power to an amp? the voltage of the line level outs do not effect your amplifiers output, higher voltage outputs just make up for crappy signal wire/installation.
And yes, 1000 watts rms would be perfect for two type r's BUT like i have said twice already, you need to know what the impedance of the voice coils are.
If you have two 2ohm dvc's then get an amp that puts out 1000w rms @ 2ohms
If you have two 4ohm dvc's then get an amp that puts out 1000w rms @ 1ohm or 4 ohms (better luck finding one at 1 ohm)
p.s. the 9886 sucks. alpine internals are as cheap as JVC's now, yes a few years ago they decided to cut costs.


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## bass_4_ever (Dec 6, 2007)

*Re: Best Amp to Power 2 12" Alpine Type R's (vdubnick)*

what are you talking about? I agree with the impedence but as far as the voltage outputs...voltage outputs increase the amps "readings" when the signal hits the amp. 4v outputs are better than 2v outputs anyday since your sending more of a signal to the amp. most amps can take 5v or higher. 

p.s. higher end alpine units such as the 9886 or higher are great decks...of course they're area better but for the price its a great deck. And as far as other head units, most companies decided to cut costs on products but Alpine is still one of the top for a consumer buyer. Unless you have 500+ to shell out on an Eclipse deck then Alpine would be a great choice. Like i said, there are better, but for $200-$300, the Alpine 9886 is a great deck and probably one of the best in sound quality in that price range.


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## eurotuner 06 (Jul 30, 2004)

*Re: Best Amp to Power 2 12" Alpine Type R's (bass_4_ever)*

Can anyone comment on Pioneer Products?


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## bass_4_ever (Dec 6, 2007)

*Re: Best Amp to Power 2 12" Alpine Type R's (eurotuner 06)*

pioneer used to be great stuff, the past few years have gone downhill from them. I'm not a fan of their units in anyway except for the look. They look amazing but not great for sound quality 
just my 2 cents


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## vdubnick (Nov 29, 2004)

*Re: really????????*


_Quote, originally posted by *bass_4_ever* »_what are you talking about? I agree with the impedence but as far as the voltage outputs...voltage outputs increase the amps "readings" when the signal hits the amp. 4v outputs are better than 2v outputs anyday since your sending more of a signal to the amp. most amps can take 5v or higher. 

p.s. higher end alpine units such as the 9886 or higher are great decks...of course they're area better but for the price its a great deck. And as far as other head units, most companies decided to cut costs on products but Alpine is still one of the top for a consumer buyer. Unless you have 500+ to shell out on an Eclipse deck then Alpine would be a great choice. Like i said, there are better, but for $200-$300, the Alpine 9886 is a great deck and probably one of the best in sound quality in that price range.

wow, that is funny. Eclipse sucks, you pay a lot for nothing. And yes, alpine has cut costs. Ask someone who actually has to do the internal repairs. Pioneer has a lot better SQ and ease of use than alpine for the same if not less in price. Also, pioneer d-series speakers destroy the type-r's period.
and as far as the voltage input on amplifiers. most are ok up to about 4v. coming straight out of the ALPINE MRP-M1000 amplifier manual, "input sensitivity (RCA in)...........0.2 - 4 V "
Hence why amplifiers have gain settings. If you adjust the gain higher than the input voltage, or run a higher voltage than accepted, you start getting into clipped signals.
But hey, if you really think 5v sounds better than 2v, roll with it. Half of what you hear is in your head right?
Then again, what do I know? Im only one of about 100 or so.


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## bass_4_ever (Dec 6, 2007)

*Re: really???????? (vdubnick)*

if you have a stronger signal coming from your deck than what your amplifier can handle then you start getting clipping/distortion from your amp. another cause is because the gains are set TOO high.
As the the eclipse deck, Eclipses are one of the best made decks out there right now. Sure it doesnt have 10000000000000 options like the pioneers but you also get amazing sound quality and 8v outputs.
The Alpine 9886, at volume 30 out of 35, will put out 4v.
5v sounds good if the amp your using can actually ACCEPT PROPERLY 5v. If not, 99% of amps can take up to 4v all day long without clipping...once again depends how high you set your gains on the amp. 
p.s. keep in mind...you get what you pay for***


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## vdubnick (Nov 29, 2004)

i partially agree with the last part.... but there will always be over priced brands, like alpine, eclipse, JL, etc. 
Older eclipse was great, but after circuit city devirginized them they went down the poop shoot. plus their head units got super ugly. I have plenty of argument to back up why eclipse is not all its cracked up to be, but it really doesnt matter, because the people who buy them are ones that do not listen to reason/logic and usually have poor math skills.

but once again, the human ear is different for each person, a properly tuned system will sound bad to the majority of people. and only appriciated by a true audiophile. Seems most want something either really expensive with a fancy name, lots of flashing lights, or big advertising words.


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## the mange (Apr 27, 2008)

*Re: (vdubnick)*

dont go over 500 rms for each sub. i blew a type r 12" on 600 watts. make sure you go ported too


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## eurotuner 06 (Jul 30, 2004)

*Re: (the mange)*


_Quote, originally posted by *the mange* »_dont go over 500 rms for each sub. i blew a type r 12" on 600 watts. make sure you go ported too

why should i go ported? is it too much power for a sealed box?


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## vdubnick (Nov 29, 2004)

^ that statement holds little worth. You can go with any type of box. If you dont know how to calculate box parameters, just use the recommended dimensions that come with the sub. 
and you still have not stated if you have dual 2ohm, or dual 4ohm subs.


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## bass_4_ever (Dec 6, 2007)

*Re: (vdubnick)*

i agree with a lot of what your saying...a lot of people go with expensive equipment because its "the best" but in reality, a true audiophile can buy a cheap stereo and make it sound better than what most people think is "great, expensive" equipment. A lot of the top brands such as JL, Rockford, etc etc are great stuff to use...if you have the money. I myself am using an Alpine 9886, Massive Audio EQ7, PG RSD65s, Swiss Audio 4 channel, 2 Massive Audio P1500s, and 6 JBL GT5-10s. All of this equipment costed me less than 2 JL W7s + JL 1000/1 and I'll be even louder than most would think. MOST name brands arent as cracked up as their supposed to be.
Sometimes fancy names, lots of flashing lights, or big advertising words doesn't mean its a good product.
Case closed lol. 

As for the actual topic of this thread, Go with 1000 watt RMS amp (each sub will see 500 watts rms). Based on the information you've given, we need more specs on the subs to actually give you an accurate amp to use. Like it was previously stated. which will you choose? Dual 4 ohm or dual 2 ohm?
A rule of thumb that most people go by:
-Ported = SPL
-Sealed = Sound quality
having that said, this rule isnt ALWAYS applied because sealed boxes can get loud, but ported always had a slight advantage since the air isnt being restricted inside the box.


_Modified by bass_4_ever at 8:55 AM 4-29-2009_


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## eurotuner 06 (Jul 30, 2004)

*Re: (vdubnick)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubnick* »_
and you still have not stated if you have dual 2ohm, or dual 4ohm subs.

the box says 4ohm + 4 ohm...
oh and i was recommended this amp from a confidential source.
imho, it LOOKS cheap and tacky... but for all i know it might be a great amp. what do you guys think?








specs:
* 2000W Max, X Thunder Series 1-Channel Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier
* RMS Power Rating:
o 4 ohms: 500 watts x 1 chan.
o 2 ohms: 1000 watts x 1 chan.
* Max Power Output: 2000 watts x 1 chan.
* Patented Adaptive Class D Technology
* Remote bass level control included
* LED power indicator
* Tuned Bass EQ (0-12 dB bass boost at 40 Hz)
* Anodized Finish
* Single channel operation
* Chrome X Thunder Badge <------ WooHoo, I'm on a boat!
* Mono gain control
* Heavy duty aluminum construction with large heat-sinks
* Variable low-pass filter (40-200 Hz, 24 dB/octave)
* Subsonic Filter (20-50 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
* Frequency response: 20-200 Hz
* Dimensions: 15" L x 9-1/8" W x 2-1/4" H
* 4-gauge power and ground leads recommended. Contact us for information regarding a discount on a select amplifier kit when purchased together. 


_Modified by eurotuner 06 at 9:33 AM 4-29-2009_


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## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: (eurotuner 06)*

There are a few things that are just not true or mis understood in this thread, I can't touch on them yet as my work day is just starting, but will point out a few things that need a little better clarification later.


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## bass_4_ever (Dec 6, 2007)

*Re: (eurotuner 06)*

since the subs are dual 4 ohm each, you can wire them down to a 1 ohm load. That MTX amp states that it can do 1000 watts rms @ 2 ohms. It does not state that it is stable @ 1 ohm therefore I wouldnt use it. IMO, you need an amp that can power the subs at 1 ohm stable. Your wiring should look like this:
http://www.the12volt.com/insta...m.gif


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## eurotuner 06 (Jul 30, 2004)

*Re: (bass_4_ever)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bass_4_ever* »_since the subs are dual 4 ohm each, you can wire them down to a 1 ohm load. That MTX amp states that it can do 1000 watts rms @ 2 ohms. It does not state that it is stable @ 1 ohm therefore I wouldnt use it. IMO, you need an amp that can power the subs at 1 ohm stable. Your wiring should look like this:
http://www.the12volt.com/insta...m.gif

well, i dropped out of engineering school after a year and a half, but that looks pretty straight forward.... but my question still stands... i know there is no one answer for this but can anyone recommend a specific amp or several specific amps that would power these subs most effectively?
As for the box, I was planning on going sealed, to conserve trunk space. My taste in music is very broad i don't necessarily need to be heard in London. I truly doubt that I will be disappointed that these don't go loud enough. I like a quick punchyer bass too. Which brings up the notion that maybe I should have got 10"'s but we wont go there.
As for head units, does anyone have an opinion on this?


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## eurotuner 06 (Jul 30, 2004)

*Re: (bass_4_ever)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bass_4_ever* »_since the subs are dual 4 ohm each, you can wire them down to a 1 ohm load. That MTX amp states that it can do 1000 watts rms @ 2 ohms. 

so i want an amp that does 1000 watts RMS at 1 ohm? since the subs each handle 500 RMS?


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## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: (Non_Affiliated)*

First off, 2V, 4V, 5V, or 8V, means didly squat to the amp as long as the amps line level can support these input voltages. i.e. if you amps input gain voltage is 0.2V to 2.5V, then you don't want to drive it really with 4, 5, or 8V.
You can, but you need to understand how the gain of a amplifier works.
These higher voltage deck were designed more with an idea to help eliminate noise. Higher voltage pre-amps help lower the noise floor. If have a signal going into the amp and your un-clipped voltage is 1Vrms, and you have some noise in the signal rumbling around at say 0.1Vrms, and you amp gain is matched. the noise signal is 10 time lower than your target singnal. Now if you can increase that voltage to 2Vrms, now you have lowered the noise floor altogether. Of course that is if that noise generated stays the same, yet you would still have to lower the amp gain so as not to clip the signal, which with less gain need on the amp the lower the noise generated by the amp also.


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## eurotuner 06 (Jul 30, 2004)

*Re: (eurotuner 06)*


_Quote, originally posted by *eurotuner 06* »_
so i want an amp that does 1000 watts RMS at 1 ohm? since the subs each handle 500 RMS?

just found one that does that... its a rockford and its over $500 lol
http://www.sonicelectronix.com....html


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## vdubnick (Nov 29, 2004)

*Re: (Non_Affiliated)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Non_Affiliated* »_First off, 2V, 4V, 5V, or 8V, means didly squat to the amp as long as the amps line level can support these input voltages. i.e. if you amps input gain voltage is 0.2V to 2.5V, then you don't want to drive it really with 4, 5, or 8V.
You can, but you need to understand how the gain of a amplifier works.
These higher voltage deck were designed more with an idea to help eliminate noise. Higher voltage pre-amps help lower the noise floor. If have a signal going into the amp and your un-clipped voltage is 1Vrms, and you have some noise in the signal rumbling around at say 0.1Vrms, and you amp gain is matched. the noise signal is 10 time lower than your target singnal. Now if you can increase that voltage to 2Vrms, now you have lowered the noise floor altogether. Of course that is if that noise generated stays the same, yet you would still have to lower the amp gain so as not to clip the signal, which with less gain need on the amp the lower the noise generated by the amp also.

ding ding ding!
Dont bother with the technical stuff. The people who dont understand, will not beleive it. They are the same that keep "spinners", stupid flat billed hats with the gold sticker still on it, and girl sunglass companies in business.


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## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: (vdubnick)*

Also looking into used gear isn't a bad idea. Most of my stuff was bought used, and it isn't crap stuff. I do buy junker amps when the right price on one comes around mostly for replacement parts or futur projects.
A good solid amp is the JBL BP1200.1's those may be a early platform Class D amps, but there was a reason that a lot of guys in SPL comps used them. They will produce 1200 watts of power, and have a compact design, and usally can be had for $200 or less.
As for a lot of stuff on the market today stay away from MAX power ratings they mean nothing. RMS power is what you want to look at. If you are confuced at what type of power the amp will actually make, look at the amp fuses. If the dan thing say 2400 Watts and is only has like 3 40A fuses it most likely will not put out 2400W. It will most likely put out around 1200W to 1000W for a actual class D amp if it's a two channel amp it will put out less as that is a class AB amp and is less efficent.


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## shwak23 (Feb 28, 2009)

*Re: (eurotuner 06)*


_Quote, originally posted by *eurotuner 06* »_

As for head units, does anyone have an opinion on this? 


I have that head and it's sick. I ran the cord to my glove box and keep my ipod in there. I have a MKII Golf with a Sealed 12" Type R sub with a JL 250/ amp if I remember correctly. The ipod controls are mint and it's a pretty display.


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