# DIY - Replacing fuel injectors on a MKIV 12v VR6



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*REPLACING FUEL INJECTORS ON A MKIV 12V VR6*
The following procedure describes how to remove (and replace) the fuel injectors on a MKIV 12v VR6, one of which is shown below.









Poorly operating injectors can cause decreased gas mileage, rough idle, decreased engine power, engine surging and increased emissions. Sometimes the CEL will even come on, causing you to fail an OBDII emissions test. I removed my injectors because the fuel trim values reported by VAG-COM indicated that my engine was running close to 10% lean at elevated engine speeds (10% is the limit for triggering a CEL). Since the injectors had more than 216k miles on them, it was possible that the injectors had become clogged by fuel deposits over time and the ECU was compensating for the decreased flow rate by increasing the injector pulse duration. I sent the removed injectors to WitchHunter Performance for ultrasonic cleaning and replacement of filter baskets and o-rings. The results of this cleaning procedure are documented HERE.
The procedure below is based on a '99.5 Jetta GLS VR6, but should be applicable to all MKIV VR6s and similar on many later model VWs.
The following items are required to perform the procedure:
- Small screwdriver
- 5mm hex wrench or socket
- Spring clip pliers (regular pliers will work fine)
- Two rods ~ 5/16" in diameter, if you want to plug the fuel lines (I used a screwdriver and 1/4" socket extension)
- Roll of wide tape

*REMOVING THE INJECTORS:*
1. Open the driver's door and pop open the door that covers the fuse panel, as shown below.









2. Remove the fuse for the fuel pump (#28), indicated by the red arrow in the picture below.









3. Start the engine and let it stall out. This will remove the pressure from inside the fuel lines so that you won't get sprayed in the face with gas later on.
4. Loosen the gas cap to vent any residual pressure. This step may not be necessary, but it can't hurt.
5. Remove the engine covers and upper intake manifold from the top of the engine by following the appropriate steps in this DIY by FaelinGL (Mike).
6. The injectors are located on top of the lower intake manifold, as indicated by the red arrows in the picture below.









7. Before proceeding, cover the holes in the lower intake manifold with some tape (red arrow) if you haven't already.









8. The wires for the fuel injectors (as well as the rear knock sensor) are contained in a support (yellow arrow in picture below) that is attached to the fuel rail (green arrow) in three places (blue arrows). Before removing the support, there are 6 retaining clips (red arrows) that first need to be popped open in order to remove the wiring.









9. The picture below shows the clip that secures the wiring for the #3 and #4 cylinder injectors. To pop open this and the other five clips, use a small screwdriver placed in the slots indicated by red arrows to gently pry them open. The yellow arrows in the picture show how the support is attached to the fuel rail (it's simply clipped on to both tubes).









10. The picture below shows how the individual wires for injector #1 (rred arrow) and injector #2 (yellow arrow) are secured below their retaining clip.









11. Once all of the retaining clips are open, carefully remove the wiring from the support, unclip the support from the fuel rail and manuever the support out from around the wiring. The picture below shows the support removed.









12. The following three pictures show how the injectors are oriented in the lower manifold. Their orientation is important since the upper manifold sits just above the injector harnesses and you want to avoid any interference. The injectors for odd numbered cylinders are oriented so that the electrical harness is roughly straight up, while the injectors for the even numbered cylinders are rotated approximately 45° counter-clockwise (towards the passenger's side). The injector for cylinder #1 is rotated slightly clockwise (towards the drvier's side) so that there is no interference with the wiring support when installed. 

























13. Remove the electrical harneses from all six injectors by pressing in on the two retaining clips (red arrows in picture below) and then pulling up on the harness (yellow arrow).









14. Work the wiring and harnesses for the six injectors out from underneath the fuel rail.
15. Disconnect the wiring for the rear knock sensor from the top of the valve cover. The two retaining clips, indicated by the red arrows in the picture below, should easily lift up out of their holes in the valve cover. You shouldn't need to undo the wiring from the wiring clips, but can if the clips so not easily come out of the cover.









16. Pull the vacuum line T-fitting off of the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail, as shown below.









17. Move the injector and knock sensor wiring out of the way (red arrow in picture below).









18. Unclip the flexible fuel lines from their retaining clips (red arrows in picture below) by placing a small screwdriver in the groove at the top of each clip (yellow arrow) and carefully prying it open. The left clip in the photo has already been opened.









19. Unclamp and remove the fuel lines from the fuel rail, as shown in the picture below. Use a rag or paper towel to catch the small amount of gas that will come out. Also, note the position of the clamps on the hoses before removing the clamps. The clamps should be put back in the same position so that the tabs won't sit underneath the upper manifold when it's reinstalled. This is just a guess, but you probably don't want to have to take the manifold back off to work on the fuel lines if need be at a later date.









20. If the car is going to sit for a while for whatever reason, then I recommend that you plug the fuel lines, as shown in the picture below. Mine sat for a week and a half while I was on vacation and the injectors were shipped out for cleaning and I didn't want the garage filling up with gas fumes. If you're reinstalling injectors immediately after removing them, then this step is not necessary.









21. Pop off the clips that secure the injectors to the fuel rail (red arrows in picture below) by pulling straight up on them. They're "springy" and should pop off easily.









22. The picture below shows one of the clips partially removed. Note the slots in the side of the clip where the flange on the fuel rail fitting sits.









23. The picture below shows one of the retaining clips completely removed.









24. The picture below shows the proper depth of the injector in the fuel rail fitting. The retaining clip slides into the groove in the injector (red arrow) and around the flange on the fuel rail fitting. Note that when the injector is sitting in the fuel rail fitting at the proper depth, the distance between the flange and groove is appoximately equal to the width of the groove. 









25. The fuel rail is secured to the lower manifold by four 5mm hex bolts in locations indicated by the red arrows in the picture below.









26. The picture below shows a close-up of one of the fuel rail bolts. Remove all four of these bolts.









27. Carefully pull the fuel rail off of the injectors by pulling a little at a time at various points along the length of the rail, as shown in the picture below. The o-rings secure the injectors into the rail pretty good, so you may need to give it a good tug. Just don't pull so hard as not to bend the fuel rail. It doesn't matter if the injectors stay in the manifold or come out with the fuel rail. All of my injectors stayed in the manifold, but some were loose and close to coming out with the rail.









28. Carefully wiggle/rotate the injectors out of the manifold. You can use the harness on the injector for a little bit of leverage, but don't put too much pressure on it or it could possibly break off. The injectors should come out eventually with gentle wigging/rotation so don't get impatient if it seems like they're completely stuck. Most likely they're not.









29. Check the fuel rail fittings for any o-rings that might have popped off the injectors and remained in the fittings.









30. Also check the holes in the lower manifold for any o-rings that might be present. Note: If you look into the injector holes in the lower manifold for the front (even) cylinders, you should be able to see the intake valve for each cylinder (green arrow). Mine showed very little deposit on the valve even after 216k miles!

















31. If the car is going to sit for a while, cover the injector holes in the lower manifold with tape so that nothing falls in.












*REINSTALLING THE INJECTORS:*
The reinstallation of the injectors is done by simply following the above steps in reverse. Here are some simple tips which should help make the process easier:
- Apply some gas or a small bit of clean oil to the injector o-rings before pushing the injector into the manifold or fuel rail. They'll go in much easier this way.
- Figuring out how far the injectors should be pressed into the manifold and fuel rail can be a trial-and-error process. I recommend fitting the injectors into the manifold first and then pressing the fuel rail on. Use the picture in Step #24 to gauge if the injector is positioned properly. If it isn't, move the injector in the appropriate direction so that the flange and groove look like they do in the picture. When the groove and flange are related this way, then the injector clips will slide on very easily. Since the fuel rail is bolted a specific distance away from the manifold, you only need to correctly position the fuel rail end of the injector. The manifold end of the injector will be positioned in the manifold accordingly.
- Torque the fuel rail bolts to 7 ft-lbs if you have a torque wrench.
- Don't forget to reinstall Fuse #28 or the car won't start.
Congrats on a job well done. Have a







or two.









*As always, do this procedure at your own risk. I am not responsible for any mistakes in the above procedure or those that you make while performing it.*


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## fastslc (Sep 14, 1999)

*Re: DIY - Replacing fuel injectors on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

What can I say !! Gary strikes again




































Next time do a headgasket procedure


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## otisranson (Dec 19, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Replacing fuel injectors on a MKIV 12v VR6 (fastslc)*

What a great writeup!


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## procket2_8 (Feb 19, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Replacing fuel injectors on a MKIV 12v VR6 (otisranson)*

you do an awesome job on these tutorial things!


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing fuel injectors on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

Thanks.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## VDFOSHO (Oct 5, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Replacing fuel injectors on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

nice write up. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Mr. Chris (Aug 20, 2006)

the man!


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing fuel injectors on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

Morning bump.


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## RavinJetta (Mar 31, 2002)

Great writeup Gary


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## FaelinGL (Nov 28, 2004)

*Re: (RavinJetta)*

EXCELLENT DIY. I know I need to do this badly, with my aging 12V.
Mike


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## njwolfturbo (Jan 31, 2004)

*Re: (FaelinGL)*

Nice diy http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I was going to do this to my buddies VR this week. Thanks


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## VR6_00Jetta (Feb 13, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Replacing fuel injectors on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

Thank you for sharing. once again, Herr Docktor Gary!!


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## darkVR6 (Feb 11, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Replacing fuel injectors on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VR6_00Jetta)*

If only VF Engineering would hire you to write their manuals...I had to do this blind.
Nice Work...AGAIN! you have saved me countless hours when working on my car


_Modified by darkVR6 at 11:27 PM 12-14-2006_


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing fuel injectors on a MKIV 12v VR6 (darkVR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *darkVR6* »_If only VF Engineering would hire you to write their manuals...I had to do this blind.
Nice Work...AGAIN! you have saved me countless hours when working on my car

_Modified by darkVR6 at 11:27 PM 12-14-2006_


Tell them to send me parts. I'll install them and write their manuals.


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## bensonwu (Jul 10, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Replacing fuel injectors on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

great write up! thanks again! keep going man! waiting for more of your DIY!


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## kevwithoutacorrado (Jun 9, 2000)

*Re: DIY - Replacing fuel injectors on a MKIV 12v VR6 (bensonwu)*

Another boring, uninformative, vague and hard to follow DIY post without enough photos from VgRt6








http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## CorvetteKillerVr6 (May 9, 2007)

*Re: DIY - Replacing fuel injectors on a MKIV 12v VR6 (kevwithoutacorrado)*

vague and informative????
really.....
this is one of the coolest diy's yet.


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## jdubb531 (Mar 5, 2008)

*Re: DIY - Replacing fuel injectors on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

my car gets pretty bad gas mileage (200 city miles a tank) and my friend gets like 260ish..we drive the same..his car has better throttle response and im running a little rich..could this be my injectors? and also i probably need my tb cleaned..any suggestions?


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## kevwithoutacorrado (Jun 9, 2000)

*Re: DIY - Replacing fuel injectors on a MKIV 12v VR6 (CorvetteKillerVr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorvetteKillerVr6* »_vague and informative????
really.....
this is one of the coolest diy's yet.










hahaha
I was searching for injector information today and found this post. can't believe someone thought I was serious! the http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif was for real - ha


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## cchetlan (Jan 12, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing fuel injectors on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

Thank YOU!
I now feel comfortable doing this job myself,wouldnt have otherwise.Cant thank you enough! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## scruffler (Apr 2, 2011)

*EPC light came on*

Hey thanks for the guide. I followed it completely and replaced one of the injectors on my brother's 2001 VR6 and the car started up fine when I was done, but now the EPC light is on. I was wondering if I should reset the computer and drive it around a bit or if there is actually something that needs to be fixed. Thanks


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## gqjeff (Feb 18, 2002)

thinking I am going to need to do this to see if it fixes my 6 cylinder misfire. I have tried everything else I hope this does the trick... Anyone know where I can get a vr6 injector for a decent price? Seem some for like 185 but damn LOL...


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## odawg753 (Nov 6, 2008)

hey i just did mine and im laking gas,probly the old o ring on the old ones right? but im getting new ones is there a way to test them to see if they are leaking with out putting the manifold back on and starting the engine?? 

thank you! 
mike


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## jark99 (Mar 6, 2012)

Have a question! 
in this picture below. which line is the send and receiving lines? is the top line the one that sends the fuel to the injectors? I need to know cause i may have some blockage somewhere. Thanks!


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## jark99 (Mar 6, 2012)

jark99 said:


> Have a question!
> in this picture below. which line is the send and receiving lines? is the top line the one that sends the fuel to the injectors? I need to know cause i may have some blockage somewhere. Thanks!


 Anyone???

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## BornBlue82 (Jun 12, 2012)

Once again Gary, Thanks for this great write-up. Cheers!!:beer:


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## Ultramagnus0001 (Jun 22, 2006)

I would recommend using a thick rubber hose around the metal part, then use a pair of pliers over the hose, then start twisting and pulling gently. It gives you more leverage and you wont risk the chance of breaking the connectors, because they are just on there by 2 tiny wires like a speaker coil and being held in place by the orange plastic c-clip looking thingy. The connector WILL break easily, guess how I found out. :banghead:


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## Vr6.addict (May 24, 2015)

*need help*

So i replace the injectors, but now when i turn on the car apparently some of the injectors stay on and is a lot of white smoke coming out smelling alot like gas. What could be the reason the injectors stay on instead of pulsing. Could be the new injectors are bad or could be something else. Side note is that before wasn't smoking at all, i replace all of them, front spark plugs are soak in gas as i check them. 

Please i really need some help on these i been dealing with these problem for 2 weeks. car is throwing a lot of codes.


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## 79pace (Jul 7, 2015)

Vr6.addict said:


> So i replace the injectors, but now when i turn on the car apparently some of the injectors stay on and is a lot of white smoke coming out smelling alot like gas. What could be the reason the injectors stay on instead of pulsing. Could be the new injectors are bad or could be something else. Side note is that before wasn't smoking at all, i replace all of them, front spark plugs are soak in gas as i check them.
> 
> Please i really need some help on these i been dealing with these problem for 2 weeks. car is throwing a lot of codes.


Hey VR6.Addict. Did you ever figure this out? I just changed all of my injectors and have the same issue. White smoke and rich as can be.


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## Vr6.addict (May 24, 2015)

not really bro i havent had time to work on the car, but i just took all injectors and out again the new ones and im going to replace them with others that i found in one of my local junk yards.


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## mkIVgladiator (Mar 6, 2013)

*mkiv fuel injector replacement vr6*

yeah mkiv jetta 2.8l fuel injectors have to be replaced after 170k miles or replace the fuel pump b/c your not getting enough prrssure for your injectors to work..... but 99% of the time its these injectors spitting and sputtering.. why i say this is because i had 5 injectors from my other vr 6 2.8l 12v lying around... and after replacing my coil pack and ngk spark plug wires,.. and regular spark plugs i still had a cylinder 1 misfire... so i replaced cyl 1,2,3,4,6 with diff spark plug wires.... man did it ru horrific unbelievably bad... so i got 6 new injectors off ebay since i think my fuel pump is putting out enough fuel pressure since my fuel rail hose started to leak from t h e pressure and had to put a extra twisty clamp.... so i'm putting my old injectors in and waiting for the new ones to come in... i guess these injectors just get weak over time... magnet coils are **** on the injectors after 150kmi ... simular to a speaker


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## mkIVgladiator (Mar 6, 2013)

*replacing fuel injectors on a MKIV 12v VR6*

although a thorough write-up you missed very crucial parts to this job. I recently took out 5 injectors b/c i had misfires in one cylinder and replaced the 5 w/ extra injectors i had laying around... so i used pb blaster as a lubricant to put the injectors in the the plastic intake fuel injector port..... :thumbdown: BAD IDEA :thumbdown::facepalm: what happens is PB blaster is a rust catalist... and wd-40 i bet is the same..... so i put it all together and it ran like s.h.i.t so i bought 6 new injectors from ebay for $96 really cheap considering about 2-3 years ago they cost $250 a piece ,.. now they sell them individually for $20 a pop.... so anyways buy all 6 for $94+tax you get a deal... and i bought caliper grease from autozone for $7.99 and went absolutely crazy put so much in each fuel injector port... and on the fuel rail o-rings and on the 2 black o-rings at the fuel injection end on the fuel injectors... that made it very easy to push the fuel injectors in place pushing on the plastic part of the fuel injectors not on the metal end that the fuel rail connects to.... now sit down and lets talk about the position of the fuel injects and how they have to be almost facing each other ... well i made my injectors not face each other but a little at 3 and 10 o-clock even thought the fuel injector connectors didn't seem to have much room to connect to... trust me they do.... BUT!!!! you have to take a little flat head screw driver that you use to take eye glasses apart with and sort of bend the fuel injector prongs together so that they fit the fuel injector male connections tightly and some electro grease would not be a terrible idea.... oh and if you order the fuel injectors and 1 or two injectors are missing an o-ring on the injector port of the fuel injector i would be careful to re-use the red injector 0-rings b/c it will be difficult to push that injector into the plastic intake port so your going to have to use grease and thick 9mm gloves to re-use the red o-ring make sure you try to get the o-ring on the position that the old fuel injectors are in so the o-ring sits flat and naturally on the in-well surface of the metal closest to the injector port. Now well talk about putting the fuel rail on ... don't be afraid to use grease b/c the gas will thin the caliper grease right out ... my rail was pouring gas out while i was adding grease ... just be very careful and angle the #1 injector to accept the #1 fuel rail port wiggle it vertically in and position the rest wiggling the fuel rail up and down gently :bs:ABSOLUTELY NO HAMMERING ALLOWED:bs: very little pushing force is needed .... if it seems difficult APPLY MORE caliper grease! if anything the grease will lubricate the injectors while there spraying gas not gum or clogg anything... oh an about the injector clips that connect the fuel rail to the injectors ... i threw them in a scrap bin don't need them and won't ever use them... there from manufacturers completeness package.... same reason why vw engineers devised a rediculous plan to prevent the valve cover from getting stuck to the cylinder head by making seats on the valve cover bolts so that only the rubber washer pushed the valve cover on.... i did away w/ that plan grinded off those seats on the valve cover bolt with a cutting wheel and putting extra lock washers to put some serious pressure on the valve cover gasket ... b/c when that gasket starts having dry cracks in it b/c there 60-70 ft pounds of force on the whole valve cover ...then you know you just spit on the vw engineers


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## sommersprossen (Dec 15, 2012)

I've swapped out my injectors before as well, 1 about 3yrs ago and all 6 about a month ago. While your opinions are plausible, I personally would advise against caliper grease  yes they are a pain in the a$$ to reinstall BUT that's why you use either a lil bit of motor oil or gas. Granted the injector clips probably aren't necessary in the grand scheme of things but they are an extra precaution that takes about 30 seconds to install. Worth it in my opinion. As I stated before, that was your opinion and I stated my opinion. The DIY gives the best/safest steps for that very reason, safety. Misinformation is worse than no information. Anyways I'm off my soap box.

sent from my Atrix HD


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