# Polishing BBS RS'



## Cyfer (Jun 21, 2007)

Hi. I hate to be the one asking noob questions, but if it will save me some money I'll give it a go. I've been reading the detailing forums for a week or two now and you guys do some amazing work.
I'm just wondering if the "dirtiness" on these bbs can be cleaned off without having to take the wheel apart and polish them that way. I just bought the wheels so I don't know which kind of environment they were in but I'd mostly want to remove the white stuff between the bolts. I've read a lot of DIY's but the ones on wheel detailing mostly show example on bigger 5 spoke type wheels.
I was thinking possibly a drill adapter that could really get in between the bolts would do the trick but other than that have no idea how to take on this project. Any help appreciated! Thanks!








Some of the surface stuff comes off just with my finger or a towel, but the deeper gunk is a bit harder to deal with.
















Thanks!!


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## Jesstzn (Apr 21, 2003)

*Re: Polishing BBS RS' (Cyfer)*

This could be salt damage that has attacked the alloy under the clear coat and if so you won't get it like new.


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## Cyfer (Jun 21, 2007)

*Re: Polishing BBS RS' (Jesstzn)*

The wheels are originally from Japan then kept in a warehouse in California from what I can figure out so I don't think these are salt heavy areas? But I'm not 100% sure so it could be salt..


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## Cyfer (Jun 21, 2007)

*Re: Polishing BBS RS' (Cyfer)*

Any ideas?


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## Levish (Dec 1, 2000)

*Re: Polishing BBS RS' (Cyfer)*

i believe they aren't clear coated on the lips / around the bolts so have at them with some metal polish (use some q tips for around the bolts).
Do make sure that they are in fact not clear coated in that area before you start though. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Cyfer (Jun 21, 2007)

*Re: Polishing BBS RS' (Levish)*

Ok thanks! Is there a way to definitely tell if there is clear coat? I took a close look at the wheels and saw some very small peeling around the nipple of the outer lip with shinier metal underneath but other than that I really can't be sure. If there is clear coat would the polishing be very different and which products should I use?


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## Levish (Dec 1, 2000)

*Re: Polishing BBS RS' (Cyfer)*

I'd ask wherever you got them from first or the manufacturer otherwise. The reason I say they can easily be refinished by a second unrelated party to the manufacturer and may/may not have followed their procedures.


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## l3lacksheepsquad (Nov 21, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Get a microfiber towel and some cleaner wax... 
Wrap the towel around your finger, put some wax on it and rub like hell on the lips.
Look at the towel, is it black? 
Yes- no clear.
No- get a can of aircraft stripper. They are cleared.
I personally think they are cleared and that is clear coat failure...


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## PROSTO. (Sep 10, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (l3lacksheepsquad)*

Did you get them from RBwheels.com? I bought my wheels from them and they looked the same way like your. I pretty sure the lips are not cleared so you have a good chance getting that stuff off. You will need to repolish them. Try wet sanding and like 1000-1500 grit to see if it helps. If try some lower grits. I had to go all the way down to 400grit to get all the spots from my lips. Good luck and keep us updated.


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## Cyfer (Jun 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (PROSTO.)*

ah. I was hoping to not have to take them apart but it seems I'm going to have to hm? Oh well good learning experience I guess? I'll try my best to see how nice I can make them without having to take them apart, if not i'll just go ahead and read up on it.. I'm just afraid of air leaks D:. When I called a shop to refinish them, they told me every bolt has to go in it's original position.. Is this true?
And honestly, I don't really know what I'm doing so if I end up taking apart it will be a real learning experience and proof that a noob can make anything work with common sens! 
btw I just have to add you guys are A LOT more friendly than mk3 forum, learning experience is much better surrounded here lol.


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## VWn00b (Mar 4, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Cyfer)*

You need a can of Aircraft Stripper.
-Disassemble the wheels
-Spray around the lips only with AS.
-Follow instructions on can.
-Wash and dry the lips.
-Polish lips with Mothers Aluminum Polish.
-Re-evaluate the condition of the lips.
-Wetsand if necessary.
-Repolish.
-Beer.


_Modified by VWn00b at 6:21 PM 4-20-2009_


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## Cyfer (Jun 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (VWn00b)*

Where can I purchase AS? I'm from Canada so a lot of products you guys get up in the states is harder for us to find. 
It's not the actual process that's bugging me, just the fact I have to find time to do it as I'm in exams atm and starting to work full time as soon as I'm done. I just don't want my winter tires to take that bad of a beating until I refinish these. 
btw, if I end up needing wet sanding, is this all done by hand or electric sander?


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## VWn00b (Mar 4, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Cyfer)*

Just search your auto parts stores in the area. I don't know what your equivalent for Autozone is up there, but they should have something like that.
Wetsanding by hand is usually what you have to do. Most sanders are too big to fit in the small places.
If you need to wetsand, use WD40. Works great.
I went from this:








to this:










_Modified by VWn00b at 6:36 PM 4-20-2009_


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## snowbird (Aug 25, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Cyfer)*

hard to tell from the blur, but looks like the clear coat failure I had on an old set of RM's. My bet is they're clear coated.

_Quote, originally posted by *Cyfer* »_Where can I purchase AS? I'm from Canada so a lot of products you guys get up in the states is harder for us to find.

You can get the stripper at Home Depot, or Canadian Tire.


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## snowbird (Aug 25, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Cyfer)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cyfer* »_When I called a shop to refinish them, they told me every bolt has to go in it's original position.. Is this true?

You're not actually supposed to reuse the bolts, but I'm sure it's been done successfully many times. Real PITA to clean up 136 bolts to make em as nice as your newly polished lips. You might consider replacing the bolts with new ones. But no, the holes don't make a difference on RS's, since they use nuts and bolts, unlike RM's that have a threaded hole in the barrel for the bolts to screw into.


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## Cyfer (Jun 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (VWn00b)*

VWn00b, did you keep 2 of the bolts on when you refinished them or did you completely take them apart and reseal them?(they look great btw) And how do you go about cleaning the bolts? Do you have to clean them one by one or is there some sort of chemical bath I can give them for a bit of shine?
I'm following this guy's instructions on taking them apart/assembling them.
http://www.the-polisher.com/id6.html
Everything looks ok on that page before I get started?


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## VWn00b (Mar 4, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Cyfer)*

I disassembled all wheels.
The Aircraft Stripper really helps because the clearcoat on my lips was very strong. 150grit paper wouldn't even cut all the way through.
I didn't really touch the bolts much. Just gave them a bath in some Simple Green (all purpose degreaser).
Personally, I wouldn't put on any sealer until you get the wheels fully assembled. I can't stand it when all that crap gets pushed out into the holes (like in the picture).


_Modified by VWn00b at 6:59 PM 4-20-2009_


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## PROSTO. (Sep 10, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (VWn00b)*

Anyone knows if it's possible to remove the faces on RSs without splitting the lips from the barrels? That would make polishing a lot easier and you wouldn't have to worry about resealing them when you put them back together.


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## VWn00b (Mar 4, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (PROSTO.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PROSTO.* »_Anyone knows if it's possible to remove the faces on RSs without splitting the lips from the barrels? That would make polishing a lot easier and you wouldn't have to worry about resealing them when you put them back together.

No. The bolts go through all 3 pieces.


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## PROSTO. (Sep 10, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (VWn00b)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VWn00b* »_
No. The bolts go through all 3 pieces.

Oh, so the faces go between the lip and the barrel. In that case the best way to polish them is to completely split them apart. BTW is it really hard to seal them back together? I know if you do it wrong they might leak once the tires are on.


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## Cyfer (Jun 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (PROSTO.)*

That's really the only thing I'm afraid of. I'm not sure which sealant to use and stuff but I guess if you're careful and follow instructions properly u can't **** up that bad.


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## VWn00b (Mar 4, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Cyfer)*

Best way to seal:
-make sure all the mounting surfaces on each part are clean and flat.
-bolt everything together and torque to spec.
-Run a bead of sealer between the lip and center, flatten with wet paper towel.
-Run a bead of sealer between the center and barrel, flatten with wet paper towel.
-Run a beat of sealer down the middle of the center, flatten with wet paper towel.
-Drink beer for 24 hours while it all dries.


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## PROSTO. (Sep 10, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (VWn00b)*

Is it ok to take the bolts out to polish the lips and than put them back in? Taking them out would help a lot with polishing and you don't have to worry about sealing them back together because you are not splitting them.


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## Cyfer (Jun 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (PROSTO.)*

Ok so today I went and tried the wax cleaner to see if there was a clearcoat and I buffed for a bit and other than dirt on the wheels microfiber came out clean so = clearcoat..
After that I tried to wetsand at 2000 to see how deep this stuff was. no luck
After that I tried to wetsand with 1000 grit and still the markings won't come off, they get better but I'm not going all the way down the core!
But thank god I'm curious, I'll go to the store and get a can of Aircraft stripper and see if it will take the clear coat off..
So before I do that, let me just clarify the steps:
1.Disassemble wheels
2.Apply AS to lips to get the clearcoat off?
3.Once that's off wetsand with proper grit to remove all the markings
4.Polish by hand with Mother's metal polish
5.apply few coats of Nu Finish to seal everything
6.Reassemble


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## l3lacksheepsquad (Nov 21, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cyfer* »_
4.Polish by hand with Mother's metal polish



I don't know how deep you want to get into this but Harbor Freight will sell you a rotary buffer for 45 bucks with a ****ty wool pad. If you get that and use the buffer and the mother's you'll get a hell of a better shine.
Here's a set of RX-II's I did:
















I wish I had better pics but they are long gone...


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## Cyfer (Jun 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (l3lacksheepsquad)*

Ah. I'm actually buying a PC 7424 soon, I'm guessing that'll do the job as well? What kind of pad should I be using with metal polish?
Very nice wheels btw!


_Modified by Cyfer at 3:04 PM 4-21-2009_


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## l3lacksheepsquad (Nov 21, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cyfer* »_Ah. I'm actually buying a PC 7424 soon, I'm guessing that'll do the job as well? What kind of pad should I be using with metal polish?
Very nice wheels btw!


That will work, it will be a little less effective because it doesn't have the rotating action of the rotary. With that you can use the edge of the pad, the PC is more effective with the flat part of the pad. If i was going to use a PC for this I'd get some 4 inch pads. Summit Racing has a "spot buffing kit" (made by SM Arnold) it's got a poly/wool pad, wool pad, 2 foam pads and backing plate for pretty cheap. These are all good to have for paintwork anyway. Use the poly/wool pad because it's junk and you won't want to use this pad on paint ever again. 
They also sell the adapter you'll need to mate that kit to a DA like the PC instead of a rotary. It actually comes with a drill adapter so that might work too, I've never used it like that.



_Modified by l3lacksheepsquad at 3:20 PM 4-21-2009_


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## Levish (Dec 1, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Cyfer)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cyfer* »_Ok so today I went and tried the wax cleaner to see if there was a clearcoat and I buffed for a bit and other than dirt on the wheels microfiber came out clean so = clearcoat..
After that I tried to wetsand at 2000 to see how deep this stuff was. no luck
After that I tried to wetsand with 1000 grit and still the markings won't come off, they get better but I'm not going all the way down the core!
But thank god I'm curious, I'll go to the store and get a can of Aircraft stripper and see if it will take the clear coat off..
So before I do that, let me just clarify the steps:
1.Disassemble wheels
2.Apply AS to lips to get the clearcoat off?
3.Once that's off wetsand with proper grit to remove all the markings
4.Polish by hand with Mother's metal polish
5.apply few coats of Nu Finish to seal everything
6.Reassemble









You'll need to re-polish periodically since they'll haze up after a couple months or so.


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## Cyfer (Jun 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Levish)*

Would it be better to clear coat after polishing with metal polish? And what steps should I take after they've been cleared (If I decide to do that)?


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## l3lacksheepsquad (Nov 21, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Clear = Less shiny and it won't stick unless you get them powdercoated and that's going to be even less shiny.
Honestly as long as you keep them clean and wipe them dry so there are no water spots you should be fine. A little Nevr-dull will keep them up for a long time before they'd need to be repolished. 
If you are the kinda guy that only washes his car once a month or less then you'll have problems but I don't think you are that guy.


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## VWn00b (Mar 4, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (l3lacksheepsquad)*

Just make sure to clean the lips often as water spots and brake dust will eat right into the lip without any protection.
What I've done is applied some #21 Meguiars sealant on the lips and let them sit for about 1 hour. Wipe off, and apply another coat. Let that sit over night. Wipe that off and the lips should have a decent amount of protection. Depending on the conditions, this will probably have to be redone every couple months along with a re-polish.


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## PROSTO. (Sep 10, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (VWn00b)*

Is it possible to make them fully polished by hand? I know doing lips wouldn't be that hard but polishing the faces would be kinda hard and time consuming.


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## l3lacksheepsquad (Nov 21, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *PROSTO.* »_Is it possible to make them fully polished by hand? I know doing lips wouldn't be that hard but polishing the faces would be kinda hard and time consuming.



You'll never get the finish you want without a machine.


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## PROSTO. (Sep 10, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (l3lacksheepsquad)*

How does that stripper works? You just put it on the wheels and than what? Does work on painted wheels as well?


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## l3lacksheepsquad (Nov 21, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *PROSTO.* »_How does that stripper works? You just put it on the wheels and than what? Does work on painted wheels as well?


You wouldn't use it on non-painted wheels. It's purpose is to strip paint.


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## PROSTO. (Sep 10, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (l3lacksheepsquad)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l3lacksheepsquad* »_
You wouldn't use it on non-painted wheels. It's purpose is to strip paint.


But it also strips clear coat, right? Ho exactly do you use it? I also read somewhere that Permatex Gasket remover works even better at stripping paint, clear coat etc.


_Modified by PROSTO. at 2:51 PM 4-23-2009_


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## gxblade (Aug 8, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (PROSTO.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PROSTO.* »_
But it also strips clear coat, right? Ho exactly do you use it? I also read somewhere that Permatex Gasket remover works even better at stripping paint, clear coat etc.

_Modified by PROSTO. at 2:51 PM 4-23-2009_


Yep it works for that too. Just make sure you use it away from important stuff. Usually you just put it on and wait for the **** to start peeling and then wipe the stuff off. I used the stuff in a spray can for mine...


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## PROSTO. (Sep 10, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (gxblade)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gxblade* »_

Yep it works for that too. Just make sure you use it away from important stuff. Usually you just put it on and wait for the **** to start peeling and then wipe the stuff off. I used the stuff in a spray can for mine...

So it doesn't require any scrubbing, just wipe off?


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## Cyfer (Jun 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (PROSTO.)*

Ok so I started taking the wheels apart today, got all the bolts out and manage to get the lip off.. I can't manage to separate the barrel from the center.. I put the rim in the oven for a few minutes to get the silicon to be hot enough to separate but only got the lip off.. any tips on the centers?
I'll post pics after work. 
btw- it can't be dangerous to put the wheel in the oven right? I leave it in there like 5 minutes at a time maximum since I don't have access to a heat gun and this warms up all around so does a quick job. 
Thanks


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## Cyfer (Jun 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Cyfer)*

anyone?


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## VWn00b (Mar 4, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Cyfer)*

You should be fine with the oven. Shouldn't hurt anything.
If you have a rubber mallet, give it a good wack in 4 spots around the barrel after heating it up. Should knock the center loose.


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## Cyfer (Jun 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (VWn00b)*

I ended up using a torch + heat gun for the centers (silicon + cleaning products were stinking up my kitchen). I have a bunch of pictures and some useful information for those who are considering doing the same and don't really know how!
The only thing I'm unsure of now is the tire bead? Can I just unscrew it and put it back later (there seems to be a small rubber ring to seal it) or will I need to silicon that as well if I take it off?
PICTURE TOMOROW -- It's my last exam so I'll have time to work up a DIY for the extreme noob!


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## PROSTO. (Sep 10, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Cyfer)*

Is it safe just to remove the lips and than seal the back in without splitting faces from the barrels? My faces and barrels are in good condition, I'm just putting bigger lips on them.


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## 20thgti2461 (Sep 10, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (PROSTO.)*

you should be fine, but i would seperate them just so I could re silicone everything back together to ensure no leaks!


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## VAN CAN (Jul 4, 2010)

if you heat up your wheel with direct heat from a torch it will bake the silicone making it useless . if you want it done right take the time to research. you will regret not doing it right the first time..

some tools:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MXqWTXvsWJ8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cw9bBQwAgOI&feature=channel


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## PoorHouse (Nov 8, 2002)

VAN CAN said:


> if you heat up your wheel with direct heat from a torch it will bake the silicone making it useless . if you want it done right take the time to research. you will regret not doing it right the first time..
> 
> some tools:
> 
> ...



Good point.

Also note the bolts are suppose to be one time use only.

I'd say this job is a big enough pain in the ass you'll want to do everything at once.

My RS's are currently disassembled waiting on the lips to be chromed. I hadn't planned on doing
that, but I don't want to mess around with polishing all the time. Plus I've noticed raw lips will 
discolor around the bolts where it is harder to polish.


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