# 1980 Rabbit 1.6 CIS Interesting issue.



## [email protected] (Mar 30, 2010)

I have cleaned the airbox, cleaned the filter (and removed the filter lol.) so here it is: I pulled 2 of the injectors out of the intake to watch them. turn the key on, and the squirt once, for about 1/2 a second and stop, as they should. but there is no spray during cranking. and i can turn the key on and pull the airflow plate all the way up, and there is no flow. any opinions?


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## anlxn (Oct 18, 2009)

th injectors squirt when the key is first turned to prime then the pump wont run until it gets a hall singnal to the relay. if you want to check the flow use a jumper in the relay......
do a search on here for testing injectors


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## [email protected] (Mar 30, 2010)

*Update*

So both of my fuel pumps are wired to ignition hot, and always have been. both pumps are operating normally. I have replaced the WUR with a known good one, but it is from a CIS-E set-up. (could this cause issues?) and the bottom of the airbox, including the airflap, was replaced with a known good. (all except for the portion the fuel lines thread into.) still no fuel to the injectors after the initial squirt when the key is turned on. fuel filter is immaculate. and the canister BEHIND the fuel tank, with 2 lines on the same end of the cylinder, ( also flows freely. not sure of it's purpose. lol) any ideas?
:beer:


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## Glegor (Mar 31, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> So both of my fuel pumps are wired to ignition hot, and always have been. both pumps are operating normally. I have replaced the WUR with a known good one, *but it is from a CIS-E set-up.* (could this cause issues?) and the bottom of the airbox, including the airflap, was replaced with a known good. (all except for the portion the fuel lines thread into.) still no fuel to the injectors after the initial squirt when the key is turned on. fuel filter is immaculate. and the canister BEHIND the fuel tank, with 2 lines on the same end of the cylinder, ( also flows freely. not sure of it's purpose. lol) any ideas?
> :beer:


thats fairly impossible.. CIS-E doesnt use a warm up regulator..


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## [email protected] (Mar 30, 2010)

Perhaps I have the name wrong. I am referring to the unit bolted to the block just to the passenger side of the oil filter, with an "in" and an "out" fuel line and one electrical connector. the one I'm using came off of my FACTORY jet-tronic '86. I ask because they are clearly different. the original had a flat smooth back, and the new one has a recessed brass disk in the back. the new unit is also about 1/2 an inch deeper. (i had to buy longer mountiong bolts.)


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## Glegor (Mar 31, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Perhaps I have the name wrong. I am referring to the unit bolted to the block just to the passenger side of the oil filter, with an "in" and an "out" fuel line and one electrical connector. the one I'm using came off of my FACTORY jet-tronic '86. I ask because they are clearly different. the original had a flat smooth back, and the new one has a recessed brass disk in the back. the new unit is also about 1/2 an inch deeper. (i had to buy longer mountiong bolts.)


ok, well jetronic in 86 was CIS-Lambda in Golfs/Jettas, and it DID have a WUR.. GTI/GLI had CIS-E and had no WUR..

CIS-electronic NEVER HAD A WARM UP REGULATOR.

GTI's and GLI's came with CIS-E

bare bones golfs/jettas had CIS-Lambda

(im speaking of cars from 85-87)

and i imagine the internals of the warm up regulators are way different between CIS-basic, and CIS-Lambda

as you said, they are VISIBLY different..


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## [email protected] (Mar 30, 2010)

Ok I see. so yes, the new WUR came of of a lambda system, if anybody definitely knows whether or not it will work, please let me know. but my symptoms are totally unchanged. I almost suspect the top portion of the airbox that the fuel lines enter and exit. (just that component, held on by 3 long screws.) anyone have an effective way to test it?:beer:


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## WaterWheels (Aug 14, 2005)

The WUR you swapped over might not be 100% correct but if there was a problem with your original it would have made a difference. Either one would allow your car to run just fine as the difference is very slight and I doubt you would notice any change between the two parts. 

Your names for some of the parts does leave a lot to be desired so it might be a good idea to get a manual to get the names correct or at least learn their common names. At least do a few Internet searches to learn just how the system works and what the parts are refered to as it really will help you and when seeking help. That a side, I think I understand your terms anyway, you can do some simple checks to determine just where the problem lies. If you don't understand just what I am talking about, research it before doing anything so you don't cause any damage.

First, is there fuel getting up to the fuel distributor (that black metal piece where all the braided lines attach above the air filter)? Get a plastic container (glass is fine but it can break and you will be playing with gasoline). Remove the braided fuel line from the cold start injector (valve). Don't remove the injector, but the line itself at the banjo fitting. Stick the line in the container and run the fuel pumps (jumper is best as without a jumper the pumps only run for about 3 seconds). Does fuel come out of the line? If no then you need to start troubleshooting the fuel system from the tank to the engine bay. If yes then at least you are getting fuel delivered to the engine bay. Re-attach the line.

Next remove a fuel injector, does not really matter which cylinder, and remove the braided line from that injector. Stick the line in the container, raise the air sensor plate a little (with a helper or block it open) and run the fuel pumps as above. Does fuel come out of the open injector line? If no then there would seem to be some form of blockage in the fuel distributor itself. If yes then the next step would be to run a fuel pressure test but I have a feeling you do not have the correct equipment to do this test.

One quick check for a possible fuel pressure issue would be to check and remove, if still there, the small filter in the banjo bolt where the main (feed) fuel line attaches to the fuel distributor. This bolt comes from the factory with a screen filter in it which is supposed to be removed during the first or second service, sometime it is forgotten.


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## [email protected] (Mar 30, 2010)

*Update*

so, I have confirmed fuel pressure and flow from the filter to the fuel distributor, and confirmed pressure and flow to and from the warm-up regulator. this tells me there is sufficient fuel into the fuel distributor. there is no flow whatsoever out, however. (even removing the injector line from the distributor, not a drop out the top of the distributor even with the air plate all the way up. and both pumps running.) I have taken the actual fuel distributor itself apart, (removed the torx bolts from the bottom) and even with the top portion removed, i cannot blow through the spot where the line-in attaches from the WUR i do not have the money for a new dizzy, so don't try to sell me one. if anybody has pictures or diagrams of the internals and what it may be, let me know. :beer:


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