# 2001 TT225 Restore/fun build



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Whats up, Vortex?!! Its been a few years since I have had the time, money, and energy to start a new project, but its time. I previously had a 2001 Audi TT FWD. I rebuilt everything, but ended up selling some things (turbo, manifold, etc):banghead:. Was not impressed with the FWD so I parked the car and started saving for an AWD:thumbup:.. 
Donor..


Fast forward through time and I am now the proud owner of a 2001 Audi TT225 6-speed. I purchased the car with 122K miles from a dealer in a bordering state. The car kept throwing the cluster signal for overheating. I had a thermostat, green top, and new coolant sitting in my garage, so i thought I should be able to fix it. After returning home (we trailered it home), I went through the car with VAGCOM. Turns out the motor runs perfectly, its the just temp gauge on the cluster reads hot.. Score! I could replace the cluster with one from my FWD (neither have any LEDs out) but may send it off to be fixed, haven't decided yet. 



I replaced most of the defective interior with parts from my FWD donor. I had to replace the glove box, drivers side door panel, shift boot, and little pieces here and there. The last interior piece I need to replace is the headliner and the AWD interior will be near perfect. The heated seats even work wonderfully. 

First plans were the suspension. I tore out the old LCAs, struts, tie rods, ball joints, etc and replaced them with USRT lower tubular control arms, new joints, brembo rotors, tyrolsport caliper upgrade kit, and new pads. While, I was tucked away under the wheel well, I noticed my CV boots were torn  I have all new boots on order and hope to have the axles completed and ready to reinstall next week after I receive the boots. As for the rear, I had some USP Lower control arms (going to get MadMax ones after these joints were out) and ordered a new set of Bilstein sport shocks for the rear. My next major purchase will be a United Motorsports Haldex software upgrade along with new diff bushings and haldex service. I will be participating in a local track series in a "run what ya brung" type class to start out. 






But Seth, what about the engine?!! As of right now, I have decided to keep the engine stock. I do have a built bottom end from my FWD (eagle rods, not IE) that I can build when the time comes. I don't have any set goals for power output just yet so I don't want to get ahead of myself. I like the idea of having 375-400hp so the eliminators are interesting for the price. I do have the supporting mods to make far more power (SEM intake, IE surge tank, Bosch 044, injectors, FPR, etc) so Im afraid of limiting myself to an eliminator kit.. oh well. 

First entry of a long build thread, I'm sure. Hope we can enjoy it.
Pics up soon! uploading to photo bucket now.


----------



## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

Looking forward to watching the progress unfold! Same car and similar ambitions as you ( just a little bit further along)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Sweet intake setup :thumbup:


----------



## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

damnn... it's been a while!


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

It has been awhile. Been putting my time in at work and have the comfy shift now with most weekends off. The local track series doesn't start until April so I have some time to get a lot done and actually be able to follow the series. Should be a fun learning experience. I removed the axles this last weekend and have everything ready to replace the boots as soon as they arrive. Hoping in the next few days 👍🏻:thumbup:


----------



## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

Hopefully you pulled out OEM shafts and have better luck than I did with finding the right sized boots.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

That's what I'm hoping as well. It's an 01 do the "cut off" was on this year :/ hoping it's right the first time..


----------



## G'D60 (Mar 11, 2002)

Boots on these aren't fun..Thought i was smart and bought a set of axels to replace my torn boots. Bought nut style shafts as opposed to the bolt style i needed. Then i bit the bullet and bought boots to replace the torn outters. Wrong size. PLUS i lost receipt. eff. Ended up getting 01 shafts to fix the issue. 

Great thread. Good luck!


----------



## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

If you call germanautoparts with your VIN and outer CV type, they'll get you the right boots. I went through them for both the inner and outer front CV boots on my '01 QC. 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


----------



## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

lite1979 said:


> If you call germanautoparts with your VIN and outer CV type, they'll get you the right boots. I went through them for both the inner and outer front CV boots on my '01 QC.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


:thumbup: Good tip, but only if you have OEM shafts. If you find EMPI or some other aftermarket joint end its a toss up


----------



## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

Sorry. By outer CV type, I meant bolt vs nut axle stub. I assumed the OP is still using OEM half-shafts.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

CV boots came in.. They are the correct size, thankfully.


----------



## Ephry73 (Feb 18, 2002)

Looking forward to more updates 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Careful with those USRT rod ends on those control arms. Those are the cheap $7 ones, you can go to FK or Aurora PTFE lined stainless steel ones for about $40/ea. The cheap rolled shoulder ones clunk and are only rated for low loading.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

definitely will look into it! thank you.


----------



## tomde (May 12, 2010)

opcorn:


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

seth_3515 said:


> definitely will look into it! thank you.


Any time :thumbup:


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Its been a little while since Ive updated! 

Its been busy and hectic. Finally received an interview for medical school and killed it this week, so hopefully Ill be hearing about an acceptance in a few weeks. I finally got my axles removed. I ended up borrowing my dads portable air compressor for the axle flange bolts. Had to wait a week but they were off in 5 minutes with an impact. Axes are rebuilt and will be going back on the car tomorrow. Ive been buying replacement bushings for the rear differential subframe and suspension. Just need to pick up some Bilstein struts and haldex service kit for the rear. I want to get all the suspension completed by the end of March so that I can have the summer to accumulate a few things for the engine rebuild. I already have a bottom end waiting, I would just like to get some Supertech Exhaust valves, springs, and retainers for the head. I do not plan on going big turbo right away, but I would like to have the head built when I do the t belt service.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

More updates!!
I was accepted to medical school here in Oklahoma just a few weeks ago!:thumbup: been busy getting finances, employment, and living arrangements set up and it's finally time to get back to the TT.. All the front suspension has been replaced. ST coil overs, USRT tubular control arms, USRT camber adjustable, new rod ends, bushings, brake pads, and etc have been replaced. 

The next few projects will include:

-timing belt- ready to be taken off, stopped last night after removing balancer and power steering reservoir. Should be done in an hour or two. When I get some time next weekend-- visible wear when I popped the cover off. Timing belt hadn't been touched in ages.. Glad I decided to take care of it and not risk it (have a spare built motor with rods, super tech valve train, fluidamper, SEM and RS4 TB, 034 exhaust mani, etc ready to go next summer after I acquire an eliminator turbo)

-transmission flush- went with Redline from ECS
-Haldex flush- have ECS kit with the wrench
-coolant flush, t stat replacement, metal coolant flanges, 

-rear suspension- -purchased new bilstein sports, starting with ST coils but may get custom rate springs after testing the ride quality 
-install adjustable USP control arms in the rear as well as new differential bushings, pads, and rotors.


I'm very excited how this is coming along and the potential of where it could go. My main goal this summer is to have an efficient and Reliable vehicle. I'm keeping the go fast bits to a minimum this summer. This stock motor has 122K miles and I plan on playing nice until I get a turbo to swap the motors. Is there any other suggestions for longevity oriented maintenance? I do have spare parts on hand such as MAF, 02 sensors, cts, etc, because of the age of the car. Hoping I have my ducks in a row and able to keep this car on the road for the next several years until I finish residency.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Congrats on your acceptance to med school! 

Only thing I can think of is wheel bearings/coolant parts to make everything stout as a daily driver. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

TheDeckMan said:


> Congrats on your acceptance to med school!
> 
> Only thing I can think of is wheel bearings/coolant parts to make everything stout as a daily driver.
> 
> ...


I bought a replacement coolant ball and metal t-stat housing. Been contemplating bearings since everything is already taken off and it wouldn't be much more work


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

The metal t-stat housing is the way to go! Do the bearings now as you have it apart and it will be a piece of mind for the next 50-80k miles 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Timing belt is finished and I'm currently putting things back together. I sent the manifold and valve cover off to be powdere coated. I'm still waiting on the FK rod ends, fuel likes, and fluidampr balancer, and gaskets to come in the mail. While waiting, I pulled the headlights and have been buffing the lens. I just need to swap over brake calipers from the old TT (painted and Tyrol sport kit already installed). I'll have a few pics once I get my parts back from powder coating and then can finally start on the rear section. Should be finished in just a few weeks. My last day of work is June 24th then I'll have a full
Month off to finish up any issues befor school starts. As of right now, I'm confident in the work being performed.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

New rods ends came in as well as the FMIC opcorn:opcorn:


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Finally got her running. The front suspension and brake stiffening kit feel great. Chasing down one open circuit tonight after work (N249) and then tightening just a few things up as far as the vac system. I'll be tackling the rear suspension this week (have bilsteins, ST springs, adjustable control arms, wheel spacers, and the Haldex service left to do) and then finally the interior. It'll be getting a new headliner, rear seat delete and new carpet for the rear cover. Things are moving along nicely. I have a Uni Stage2+ ECU sitting here. Once I get all codes fixed, I'll be throwing this in there to take advantage of the new hardware and FMIC.:thumbup:


----------



## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

Nice work Seth.. suspension upgrades are by far the most enjoyable upgrade I have done on my car :beer:


----------



## jsmith2015 (Mar 7, 2015)

seth_3515 said:


> New rods ends came in as well as the FMIC opcorn:opcorn:


What intercooler is that ? Evo ?

Sent from my LGMS330 using Tapatalk


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

looks like the WT fmic

http://www.wagner-tuning.com/AUDI-T...ont-Mount-Intercooler-Kit-200001003_p_38.html


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Yup, its the EVO from Wagner Tuning. Ive been driving her around and got about 400 miles on her. I had one issue.. one coolant hose clamp wasn't quite tight enough. Quick fix, refilled with coolant and haven't had any issues since. I have all the suspension parts replaced, however there is one issue.. The new FK ends were quite a bit thicker at the heads (this is for the front control arms) They were fine for the front or leading end of the USRT control arms but the rears will hit the spacers causing a bit of suspension noise on ****ty roads. Im pulling the rear ends out today and replacing them with the originals to see if this alleviates the issues. Ill get some pics today as well to show what I'm talking about. I replaced the rear shocks (shot to hell) with Bilstein Sports and lower control arms. The car turns as if its on rails. It is an absolute blast to drive. 

just a little side note about the FMIC> I read a few posts that were concerned with reduced airflow to the radiator and decreased efficiency in cooling. I knew WT had a good reputation and decided to give it a shot. I waited for the hottest day (105 degrees with an index of 110+) and rode her hard down miles of dirt roads (most areas in oklahoma have dirt roads intersecting every mile). I couldn't heat soak her if i tried. It won't see any worse conditions than that for any appreciable length of time, so i was satisfied. 

Question- I have a UNI stage 2+ ecu (AWP) with an AWP wiring harness. My concern is that 93 is not available to any appreciable extent in my area. I know our fuel trims will adapt and I do have VAGCOM. Ive been holding off on switching the ECUs, but know I could us UNIsettings to reduce timing advance but didn't know if this was necessary. Hoping someone can chime in and give me some reliable info. Remember, this car is more of a fun/DD so Im not going to risk detonation and blow the motor for a few more ponies right now. If anyone could give me some assurance/experience, either way, would be greatly appreciated. I have no problem just selling this ECU if it using is going to be risky on hot days when the risk is high. Thanks in advance guys!


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

seth_3515 said:


> just a little side note about the FMIC> I read a few posts that were concerned with reduced airflow to the radiator and decreased efficiency in cooling. I knew WT had a good reputation and decided to give it a shot. I waited for the hottest day (105 degrees with an index of 110+) and rode her hard down miles of dirt roads (most areas in oklahoma have dirt roads intersecting every mile). *I couldn't heat soak her if i tried.* It won't see any worse conditions than that for any appreciable length of time, so i was satisfied.
> 
> Question- I have a UNI stage 2+ ecu (AWP) with an AWP wiring harness. My concern is that 93 is not available to any appreciable extent in my area. I know our fuel trims will adapt and I do have VAGCOM. Ive been holding off on switching the ECUs, but know I could us UNIsettings to reduce timing advance but didn't know if this was necessary. Hoping someone can chime in and give me some reliable info. Remember, this car is more of a fun/DD so Im not going to risk detonation and blow the motor for a few more ponies right now. If anyone could give me some assurance/experience, either way, would be greatly appreciated.


For your heat soak comment, measured how? What were coolant temps? How much timing pull were you seeing? How long were you actually using WOT? Your "results" are pretty subjective, and the FMIC definitely didn't help your cooling system. 

As for your second concern, the AWP ECU with software for a K03S won't have the same timing characteristics as AMU files. No one can tell you if you are having excessive timing pull, you need to datalog and see what the engine is doing. The ECU will pull timing, the risk you damaging anything is low regardless of not having 93. However, if you do pull timing via Unisettings, you'll be sacrificing that timing at all RPMS and all throttle positions. The lower intake temps from your IC may offset this some, but again, log to be sure.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

20v master said:


> For your heat soak comment, measured how? What were coolant temps? How much timing pull were you seeing? How long were you actually using WOT? Your "results" are pretty subjective, and the FMIC definitely didn't help your cooling system.
> 
> As for your second concern, the AWP ECU with software for a K03S won't have the same timing characteristics as AMU files. No one can tell you if you are having excessive timing pull, you need to datalog and see what the engine is doing. The ECU will pull timing, the risk you damaging anything is low regardless of not having 93. However, if you do pull timing via Unisettings, you'll be sacrificing that timing at all RPMS and all throttle positions. The lower intake temps from your IC may offset this some, but again, log to be sure.


measured with VAGCOM.. no timing pull and the AWP eco is written with a 225 AMU injectors stage 2+ file 

-never said it would help cooling.. just wanted to make sure there wasnt any detrimental loss of airflow


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

WOT 2 miles. first run after completing everything, ill be doing more logs later on as I get time. Plus, I don't drag race, go to the track only a few times a year. Not looking to squeeze every once of power out.


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

I didn't say you said it would help cooling, but you won't see the negative effects in timing pull, you'll see it in coolant temps. You'll definitely see it on the track if and when you get there, unless you only race for two miles at a time. What did the coolant and intake temps peak at in this supposed 2 mile WOT run? Also, how much did your IAT's actually climb from the start to the end of this run? Unitronic stage 2+ yes has 386cc injectors, but not K04 with dual SMIC timing curve. I find it hard to believe you stayed at WOT for 2 miles continuously on an unpaved surface. :sly:


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

I'll have to pull the logs again to see peak, but warmed everything up before starting. Yes, the file is for a K04 and 3'' MAF and 225 injectors on an AWP ecu so I could convert to wideband.. Oklahoma has intersecting county roads (straight roadside no curves, turns) every mile in my area. Hard packed shale and red dirt that was recently worked is actually smoother than a lot of roads in town. I may have lifted for a second going over a slight hill and on again (literally a few second lift). Came up to the two mile intersect, slowed down, turned, and started again.. :screwy: not really that impossible  I know you want logs and verification like I do for my biomedical experiments, but again, this was more than sufficient for what the car will see over the next few years :beer:


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)




----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

seth_3515 said:


> Yes, the file is for a K04 and 3'' MAF and 225 injectors on an AWP ecu so I could convert to wideband..... not really that impossible  I know you want logs and verification like I do for my biomedical experiments, but again, this was more than sufficient for what the car will see over the next few years :beer:


I'm well aware of a what a stage 2+ AWP file from Unitronics is, I used to be a dealer for them. It is written for a K04-001, not what you have on your 225. That turbo flows a lot less than the K04-02x's. Regardless, I could care less about seeing your logs, I was hoping to help you realize you may not have the correct "conclusion" on the effectiveness of your modifications. That will reveal itself if you ever do track it. For the street, sure, you're probably fine. However, a good chipped and full exhaust on a 225 will hit 100mph in roughly a 1/4 mile. How fast were you going after your 2 mile runs? And even if your intake and coolant temps weren't extremely high after that two miles, how do you think they'll be after 5 minutes? 10 minutes? 20 minutes of driving all out on a track? That was the point I'm trying to make since you mentioned eventually tracking it. You made an attempt to validate your modifications, and you didn't even look at the correct data channels to do so. If you're fine with that, more power to you. :beer: Don't be so defensive just because someone asked for more data than "I couldn't heat soak it if I tried." That's a very loose "claim." You used the phrase "detrimental loss of airflow." Did you really verify that, or did you just see "good enough?" Like I already pointed out, the temperature increase over a period of WOT will tell you if the IC is effective. The coolant temp increase will tell you if it's increased restriction of airflow in the bay, not timing pull.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

As I said earlier, this was the first run after everything is completed. The car was taken out for a quick run to make sure to everything was good and tight and ready for a two hour trip a couple times a week so I can come back home. Logs were taken for rpm, coolant, timing and intake temp. Also, detrimental loss of airflow (to the radiator) concerned me which is why i was paying close attention to coolant temps more than anything. The one or two times that I might be able to break away from class, clinicals, and volunteering and get to a track doesn't concern me as far as heat soaking. The "run what ya brung" class at the local track runs ~10 minute races. So when I say "I won't be able to heatsoak it" means I was taking into consideration that I won't be pushing the car like 20 valve masters. I apologize if you thought this was meant to be a scientific review when I said I couldn't heat soak it, I was speaking off the cuff and really not worried about it. Again, I wasn't testing the IC for effectiveness (the SMIC would have probably just fine for what I want to do for now) but mostly concerned about the engine overheating if I wanted to play around with two of my other classmates when we were driving home or headed to rural clinical sites. I understand you guys spend all your spare time trying to study and find every weak point in the car which is fine, but the title of the thread was restore/fun build for a reason.. Not looking to get caught up trying to find every weak point and spending cash to gain a small edge for the one or two times I might be able to make it to the road track. For the first run after replacing crucial components like the TB and all ton of other components, I was happy I made it home without coolant or fuel leaks and all the suspension components intact and not rattling loose. :beer:


----------



## jsmith2015 (Mar 7, 2015)

Front mounts equal cooling trouble, ask me how i know lol.

I see and upgraded radiator lower temp thermostat and fan switch in your future.

Sent from my LGMS330 using Tapatalk


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

jsmith2015 said:


> Front mounts equal cooling trouble, ask me how i know lol.
> 
> I see and upgraded radiator lower temp thermostat and fan switch in your future.
> 
> Sent from my LGMS330 using Tapatalk


Already got the lower temp thermo :thumbup: (OE- 80C)


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Any recommendations on fan switch setup? Not sure if you mean new fan switch or a remote toggle switch setup


----------



## jsmith2015 (Mar 7, 2015)

seth_3515 said:


> Any recommendations on fan switch setup? Not sure if you mean new fan switch or a remote toggle switch setup


Sorry wasnt very clear its the temp sensor for the fans possibly someone here can chime in with a part number.

Sent from my LGMS330 using Tapatalk


----------



## jsmith2015 (Mar 7, 2015)

I havnt purchased any upgrades im hoping e85 does the job

Sent from my LGMS330 using Tapatalk


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

No worries was looking on ECS but didn't notice any sensors with a lower or broader range. Thought you might know of something I wasn't aware of :thumbup: I'll keep digging around. For now, the thermo and additive seems to keep it under control on long drives (longest highway trip was 110 miles) without any horsing around or running her hard


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

seth_3515 said:


> Also, detrimental loss of airflow (to the radiator) concerned me which is why i was paying close attention to coolant temps more than anything.


...but you don't even know what they peaked at after your 2 mile WOT run? Can you post the log so others might be able to judge for themselves since it's not that common of a FMIC?


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

20v master said:


> ...but you don't even know what they peaked at after your 2 mile WOT run? Can you post the log so others might be able to judge for themselves since it's not that common of a FMIC?


I believe it was ~190 but it was 2 weeks ago (also taking 15 credit hours over the summer so i could be off with exact numbers). Taliked to my classmate last night and we are going to head out of town to a newly paved and resurfaced road (20 miles out of town). Only two ways main roads to get out of town are heavily patrolled (hence I chose unpaved for first run) and we don't want to endanger anyone but ourselves. Going to bring the car up to temp (let the thermo open up before starting) and log the rpms, coolant, and Ait. I'll graph and post :thumbup:


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

seth_3515 said:


> I believe it was ~190 but it was 2 weeks ago (also taking 15 credit hours over the summer so i could be off with exact numbers). Taliked to my classmate last night and we are going to head out of town to a newly paved and resurfaced road (20 miles out of town). Only two ways main roads to get out of town are heavily patrolled (hence I chose unpaved for first run) and we don't want to endanger anyone but ourselves. Going to bring the car up to temp (let the thermo open up before starting) and log the rpms, coolant, and Ait. I'll graph and post :thumbup:


Please don't take this the wrong way, but this is why I doubt your temperature claims and why I'd like to see the logs. I have a 225 with 82*C thermostat, no FMIC, AWP conversion with Uni stage 1+ file, 42DD DP, 2.5" catback, 80mm TIP, V stack and 6" filter, blah blah blah pretty basic and normal mods, and the semi upgraded radiator that was claimed to be a 3 row by ECS but is no longer labeled as such. I only mention the radiator because it's 2 years old, whereas if yours is original, it's going to have some scale buildup from 15 years of use that lowers it's efficiency. It's not 105-110*F here. This morning it was 75*F, and even just cruising at 80mph my coolant temps sit at 90-94*C depending on whether I'm going uphill or downhill (my commute is pretty hilly, an interstate through a national forest). That's with stock SMIC's, no FMIC in front of the radiator. It's just hard for me to believe your coolant temps are peaking at 190*F = 87*C, with a FMIC, after a 2 mile WOT run, in 105* heat unless you've somehow added some venting to the engine bay. This is why I'd like to see the log, more to see if there's something I'm missing FOR MY SETUP, not to disprove your results.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Air temp- 84F Cars air temp gauge - got home and local weather said 82. 
20 mile warm up through town and highway (driving and playing for 20 minutes or so)
Started in first gear and ran through 6th 

-working on converting RPMs from 1000s to 10s (x100) to keep a good scale on one graph.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

was going to top the car out but came up on a wheat truck. let me know if i need to change anything- drove around two miles on the road (again counting county road miles markers) turned around and opened it up. As soon as I slowed, temps went to about 99C and I turned onto the main highway and opened up again to cruising speed (80mph) and temps dropped back to 92C- hope this helps- if we can get out of clinicals in time to do another one in the heat of the day, Ill post that one for comparison.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

20v master said:


> Please don't take this the wrong way, but this is why I doubt your temperature claims and why I'd like to see the logs. I have a 225 with 82*C thermostat, no FMIC, AWP conversion with Uni stage 1+ file, 42DD DP, 2.5" catback, 80mm TIP, V stack and 6" filter, blah blah blah pretty basic and normal mods, and the semi upgraded radiator that was claimed to be a 3 row by ECS but is no longer labeled as such. I only mention the radiator because it's 2 years old, whereas if yours is original, it's going to have some scale buildup from 15 years of use that lowers it's efficiency. It's not 105-110*F here. This morning it was 75*F, and even just cruising at 80mph my coolant temps sit at 90-94*C depending on whether I'm going uphill or downhill (my commute is pretty hilly, an interstate through a national forest). That's with stock SMIC's, no FMIC in front of the radiator. It's just hard for me to believe your coolant temps are peaking at 190*F = 87*C, with a FMIC, after a 2 mile WOT run, in 105* heat unless you've somehow added some venting to the engine bay. This is why I'd like to see the log, more to see if there's something I'm missing FOR MY SETUP, not to disprove your results.


I understand, but I was speaking off the cuff and my buddy was watching numbers (wasn't getting picky at that point). The graph should bring more concrete information to compare to your setup. The elevation change around here over a two hour commute is about 100ft.. its as flat as can be just for your information since you're comparing and have a national forest and hills. Its wide open wheat fields around here.

I was wondering why ECS didn't have the Valero rated as a three row when I was looking around last :what: Had one a few years ago and swore it said three row then, but doesn't now.. :face palm:

Also, it should be noted that I bought this car from a Chevy dealership (local trade in) for a steal because they couldn't figure out an overheating issue (cluster gauge was way off after checking signal with VCDS and verified coolant temps weren't astronomically high). They replaced everything from the CTS, to numerous hoses, vac hoses, and a few engine bits trying to fix it. Not sure if radiator was replaced or not, so it may be new or it may be old 

hope all this makes my original comments a little clearer as the very first run was, as you said, "good enough" These numbers make me feel better as well. Going to flush tranny, oil and coolant this weekend since its seems to be running well and not throughing any codes after 500 miles.


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

So what is the X axis on that graph? Just time? And that's at WOT? Max was never able to see the results of a low temp thermostat on his car, and I don't really see it on mine either. However, when I had a 180Q (even after doing the full six speed, dual SMIC, and 225 K04 conversion), my coolant temps were flat at 82*C. In my 225 now, with the same thermostat, they're what I described earlier (90-94*C), so I can't see what's different about the cooling systems to cause the difference in performance. Yours seems to be working based on that graph. On my last track day, I think they peaked at 112*C! Again, all with no FMIC.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

X axis is time and yes it was WOT (small lift over the bumps entering and exiting a bridge) for around 2 miles. its only 2 minutes but this car won't see anything like that except on rare occasions. I have two classmates (vette and WRX STI) that both want to head to the track near school when we get chance. Hopefully I can push it a little harder and see if I can heat soak the FMIC or coolant, but for real world driving, I'm pleased and its good enough for right now. 

tangent question- if i head to the UNI dealer near me would I be able to upgrade the flash from the K04-001 file to the K04-02x? Ive posted the ECU for sale on the local VW/Audi group. I would rather not deal with tuning issues and just get the right file from the get go.


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Okay, that makes more sense, less than two minutes, ~95*C at start, drops to 93*C, and then climbs to ~98*C. So your actual real world numbers are in line with my experience. That's why I never quote numbers (~190*F) unless I"m sure. 98*C is a good bit warmer than 190*F/87*C.  Just be aware, as others have already pointed out, you may have issues with sustained use. Like I already said, you'll be fine for 99% of street use.

I can't answer your question about upgrading your software, call your local dealer.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

No worries. Glad the graph can clear everything up :cheers:


----------

