# upgraded thermostat



## dmgraz (Jan 3, 2008)

Im sweating my balls off down here in this heat and i figure my car is doing the same. Anyone know an upgrade thermostat or compatible that will drop the temp down in the radiator? thanks for the help.


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## eatrach (May 13, 2004)

It's funny you mention this, but, yesterday, I called my parts person that I've dealt with for the past 15 years, and asked him this question: " is there a 160 degrees thermostat out-there for this car?" "NO", he said. 
The thing is I know for fact that MKII Golfs/Jettas/ GTIs/GLIs' thermostat can be upgraded to 160 degres; however, you must also upgrade the fan switch. 
I did the upgrade on my mkII GTI, and let me tell you, it did run cooler. I wish someone makes something like that.


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## halbwissen (Jul 20, 2001)

I too was thinking about this the last couple of days. 
Hmmm.


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## kevin splits (Aug 23, 2010)

External oil cooler :thumbup:


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## eatrach (May 13, 2004)

kevin FaKiN spLits said:


> External oil cooler :thumbup:


orrrrr, my friend had an additional fan installed in front of the radiator, meaning between the front bumper and the radiator, on his AUDI A6. He wired it to a button inside; he turns on the switch whenever it is hot outside. 
The one benefit I saw in that was the A/C ran cooler during a hot summer day.


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## kevin splits (Aug 23, 2010)

eatrach said:


> orrrrr, my friend had an additional fan installed in front of the radiator, meaning between the front bumper and the radiator, on his AUDI A6. He wired it to a button inside; he turns on the switch whenever it is hot outside.
> The one benefit I saw in that was the A/C ran cooler during a hot summer day.


Or that :thumbup:


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## tay272 (Aug 22, 2007)

Just piss on your radiator before you go anywhere, that should do the trick hahaha. J/k but that would be a pretty beneficial item to have on these motors. Not that they run super hot or anthing but Id rather be safe then sorry. Cooler engine is a happier engine in my book.


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## kevin splits (Aug 23, 2010)

tay272 said:


> Just piss on your radiator before you go anywhere, that should do the trick


:laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## dmgraz (Jan 3, 2008)

i tried the piss trick once but it started to smell like bananas in my car which was kinda poopy. The fan idea is good but if the tstat closes at 190 then its still staying pretty hot. Would be kinda slick to tie a small cooler into the oil/water cooler and a fan....At one point i was thinking about just removing the thermostat all together but i figured their would be more problems that i don't want to deal with.  bummer


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## vwcruzer710 (Sep 24, 2010)

from what i heard. if you run an engine too cold it will most likely dump fuel into your cylinders. as that is said. im looking to put in a 180 degree one b/c mine runs 190. so 10 degrees cooler with that fan. and at one point maybe a bigger intercooler. (if i get a k04 turbo) but my question is. where is the gddamn housing and thermostat. 

ive been up all night. cant find a damn thing. so. i decided to ask ^_^ :laugh:


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## eatrach (May 13, 2004)

vwcruzer710 said:


> from what i heard. if you run an engine too cold it will most likely dump fuel into your cylinders. as that is said. im looking to put in a 180 degree one b/c mine runs 190. so 10 degrees cooler with that fan. and at one point maybe a bigger intercooler. (if i get a k04 turbo) but my question is. where is the gddamn housing and thermostat.
> 
> ive been up all night. cant find a damn thing. so. i decided to ask ^_^ :laugh:


 under the intake manifold. You have to undo the intake manifold in order to gain access to it. I wish i am able to post some photos, but, I can't, this site won't let me


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## Jayj (Jul 1, 2011)

Like it's been previously stated you would also have to install a different fan thermo switch to control the running temp. That being said, you'll most likely have an engine running in open loop and a cooling efficiency fault stored constantly. The stock cooling solution is efficient enough to it keep the engine in a specific operating range and doesn't need help to do so. Your most efficient and cost friendly mod may just be adding a fan on the other side the rad to push air while on a toggle switch. As well as keeping the fins clean. This solution would probably keep your engine at the low end of the operating range and negate throwing faults.


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## Jayj (Jul 1, 2011)

All that being said, you're really only doing harm by changing the dynamics of your cooling system. It runs within a specified heat range for a reason regardless of ambient temp. My suggestion is to maintain your cooling system with a flush and properly mixed coolant.


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## kevin splits (Aug 23, 2010)

opcorn:


Jayj said:


> Like it's been previously stated you would also have to install a different fan thermo switch to control the running temp. That being said, you'll most likely have an engine running in open loop and a cooling efficiency fault stored constantly. The stock cooling solution is efficient enough to it keep the engine in a specific operating range and doesn't need help to do so. Your most efficient and cost friendly mod may just be adding a fan on the other side the rad to push air while on a toggle switch. As well as keeping the fins clean. This solution would probably keep your engine at the low end of the operating range and negate throwing faults.





Jayj said:


> All that being said, you're really only doing harm by changing the dynamics of your cooling system. It runs within a specified heat range for a reason regardless of ambient temp. My suggestion is to maintain your cooling system with a flush and properly mixed coolant.


 Orrr get an extenal oil cooler... Turns it into a aircooled cooling system instead of sh*tty liquid cooled. Problem fixed, all this talk of adding fans,switches, different OE style t-stats is nonsense, the stock liquid cooling system will fail down the road at some point sooo mind as well just get rid of it. The external oil cooler takes about 1.5hrs to install, using a plate with in-out lines for oil to loop through a inline t-stat and at 180* flow the oil to the cooler allowing the oil to air cool. They also allow a certain percentage of oil to remain in the cooler so when the diaphram opens there is no shock to the system... Its in my opinion the best long term mod you can do to this motor and the vr6 :beer:


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## eatrach (May 13, 2004)

kevin FaKiN spLits said:


> opcorn:
> 
> 
> 
> Orrr get an extenal oil cooler... Turns it into a aircooled cooling system instead of sh*tty liquid cooled.


 i would get one too. Who sells them? So the only one I can find is from ECS.


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## kevin splits (Aug 23, 2010)

You have to get the plate from INA. Ecs sells the just ROW cooler and Tstat kit. INA also sells stage 2, which includes everything, Tstat, cooler, hose, and hardware. Stage 3 which replaces Oem oil filter housing and repositions oil filter somewhere else :thumbup:


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## eatrach (May 13, 2004)

kevin FaKiN spLits said:


> You have to get the plate from INA. Ecs sells the just ROW cooler and Tstat kit. INA also sells stage 2, which includes everything, Tstat, cooler, hose, and hardware. Stage 3 which replaces Oem oil filter housing and repositions oil filter somewhere else :thumbup:


 i thinks I might end up with stage 2; don't want the hassle of repositioning the oil filter housing. 
BTW kyle, got those calipers. I am just waiting to get the rotors and pads. This thing is going to braaaaaaakkkkkeeeee


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## kevin splits (Aug 23, 2010)

eatrach said:


> i thinks I might end up with stage 2; don't want the hassle of repositioning the oil filter housing.
> BTW kyle, got those calipers. I am just waiting to get the rotors and pads. This thing is going to braaaaaaakkkkkeeeee


 Which calipers, A3's or Boxsters?


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## eatrach (May 13, 2004)

kevin FaKiN spLits said:


> Which calipers, A3's or Boxsters?


 A3, man. Can't afford the boxter ones. I think this will do just fine. Just need to upgrade the line to a stainless steel. 
I had slotted rotors and Pagid sport pads on my 'ol 95 M3 that was S/Ced, and the car used to brake on a dime. People wasted money on upgrading to a 4 pot calipers; not realizing all you need is some slotted rotors, great pads, and SS lines. :thumbup:


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## kevin splits (Aug 23, 2010)

eatrach said:


> A3, man. Can't afford the boxter ones. I think this will do just fine. Just need to upgrade the line to a stainless steel.
> I had slotted rotors and Pagid sport pads on my 'ol 95 M3 that was S/Ced, and the car used to brake on a dime. People wasted money on upgrading to a 4 pot calipers; not realizing all you need is some slotted rotors, great pads, and SS lines. :thumbup:


 Ya I agree, tho 4 pots give a better, stiffer pedal feel, with noticeably less pedal travel. They arent cheap, but at this point you'll have the larger rotors, so you can eventually upgrade if you wanted to :thumbup: But a Tyrol kit stiffens up the single piston calipers too and are relatively cheap


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## eatrach (May 13, 2004)

I was looking at that oil cooler kit from INA engineering, man that thing is a pain in the butt to install


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## dmgraz (Jan 3, 2008)

the INA stage two sounds good. id rather get rid of that air to oil cooler any ways. What temp are their tstats at?


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