# 2.0T ignition update



## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

So I just received my 2.0T coil packs from ECS. I went with the Integrated Engineering adapter/spacers. They should be here on Friday. I'm going to start out with a set of Denso iridiums gapped at 34-36 and adjust in accordance with the misfire counter on my liquidTT. The next 2 purchases in the effort to make the ignition rock solid are, a new harness for the coil packs, and a heat shield for the harness. But I'm not sure if I should order the 1.8 or 2.0 harness? I've heard of people using both. I figure the 2.0 harness *could* be superior to the 1.8 (if the updated tech of the newer coil packs is any indicator). As far as the harness heat shield, I know several companies make them and I'm not sure who makes the best for our valve cover. If anyone has any suggestion, I'd love to hear them. 

I'd like to keep this on topic rather than discuss "will this give me power?" I'm doing this for a smoother idle and more efficient burn.


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## Khunez (Feb 27, 2009)

My question is, and im sure for a lot of people is, will this give me more power?.......... 

Interested in this thread I would also like to see if the idle smooths out here.opcorn:


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## MKllllvr28 (Sep 15, 2005)

I swapped out my damn near new revision "e"s for a set of mk6 coils and I like them. I wanted to see what all the fuss is about:laugh:. They smoothed out the idle and off boost power felt a little stronger. I run the gap at .032 on bkr8eix.


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## SchmidTT (Aug 5, 2011)

I've got mk5 FSI coils and BK7RE gapped to .26

works REAL good.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Why the heck do you want to run such a large gap?


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

20v master said:


> Why the heck do you want to run such a large gap?


For some odd reason, that I haven't seen any viable explanation for, the gap recommendation on these coils is much wider than normal. When I upgraded the ignition system in the evo with a real potent ingnition amplifier, the minimum gap required to prevent misfires at full load was .025 vs the previous .020 gap.

I am assuming that the thinking is that these coils are maybe that much better than the old ones that they can achieve the same thing a real amplifier did for me in the Evo. I have been watching this new coil fiasco in the backgroung to see if anyone would do some real testing to prove that they provide a stronger spark. All I've seen so far is impressions with no hard data; plus nobody is running them hard long enough to show if they're indeed more reliable. Only time will tell!


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

20v master said:


> Why the heck do you want to run such a large gap?


For the same reason that my dog licks his balls. Because I can.

Seriously though, bigger spark the better right..?


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

warranty225cpe said:


> Seriously though, bigger spark the better right..?


Not really!

From a perfomance standpoint, you want to run the tightest possible gap that prevents misfires under full load. You don't run say .030 gap just because you can, if .025 will not misfire under load you should run that because you'll have a better spark. There's is limit on how tight you can go, run just a hair past that for best performance. *The wider the gap, the more voltage is needed to arc the sparc across the gap*. If you're running your plugs wider than you need to, your just wasting voltage power that could be powering your motor :beer:


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## MKllllvr28 (Sep 15, 2005)

madmax199 said:


> Not really!
> 
> From a perfomance standpoint, you want to run the tightest possible gap that prevents misfires under full load. You don't run say .030 gap just because you can, if .025 will not misfire under load you should run that because you'll have a better spark. There's is limit on how tight you can go, run just a hair past that for best performance. *The wider the gap, the more voltage is needed to arc the sparc across the gap*. If you're running your plugs wider than you need to, your just wasting voltage power that could be powering your motor :beer:


I didn't know that. I was under the impression that the wider the gap was, the cleaner the burn would be. Once again bigger isn't always better. :laugh:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

MKllllvr28 said:


> I didn't know that. I was under the impression that the wider the gap was, the cleaner the burn would be.


Uh yeah, no. I don't see the point of these coils and a wider gap. Also, the wider the gap, the less boost you'll be able to run. Now most of you/us are on turbos that are limited in boost by octane or efficiency, so if you're in the limit you want, no need to go bigger. The ability to run a slightly larger gap may help with not killing 1.8 coils since plug gap grows over time, but otherwise I see no benefits here. I never had a problem with 1.8 coils on my stroker making over 500 whp so I'll stick with what I have.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

I haven't put them in yet, so what gap should I try? They are normally gapped at .28. Should I go to .30, or just stay at .28?


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## SchmidTT (Aug 5, 2011)

warranty225cpe said:


> I haven't put them in yet, so what gap should I try? They are normally gapped at .28. Should I go to .30, or just stay at .28?


.026 is acceptable for chipped cars.

i've been putting fresh NGKs gapped to .026 every 5000 miles for 100,000 miles.

i never have misfires, but i also never blow my spark out....

win/win?


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

I just did the install. I gapped the plugs at .30. Then I got on the highway and got on it for a few miles. I never realized how bad the old coils performed at high speeds. Everything seems to be running much smoother. It makes my leaking wastegate less noticeable. I ran my liquidTT in misfire mode. Nothing showed up. So far, old coilpacks < 2.0T coilpacks. I realize there isn't enough data yet, BUT I'm sold.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

First, how do you know your WG is leaking? Second, why are you futzing with coil packs if you have a bad WG? Last, how do you think ignition affects a WG? Not trying to call you out, but if that's not placebo, I don't know what is. :laugh:


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

20v master said:


> First, how do you know your WG is leaking? Second, why are you futzing with coil packs if you have a bad WG? Last, how do you think ignition affects a WG? Not trying to call you out, but if that's not placebo, I don't know what is. :laugh:


I can feel/hear air coming out of the hole where the rod comes out of the actuator. I would have bought a WG actuator instead of futzing with coils had I known that it was my WG actuator that was leaking. I only referenced noticing less of my WG leak because the engine "feels" to be running better. If I were not a car guy I probably wouldn't notice the leak. Not sure if that makes sense. In no way am I saying that coilpacks fixed my WG leak:laugh:


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

I need to replace my cp's this winter. I'm thinking that this will be a good route, as long as nobody has problems.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

warranty225cpe said:


> I haven't put them in yet, so what gap should I try? They are normally gapped at .28. Should I go to .30, or just stay at .28?


They're new coils that are designed for plugs in a different combustion chamber, nobody can say for sure. I'd start a .028 and move down there. The OEM gap recomendation is way too big and is there to guarranty smooth idle in extreme situations (think North pole and Sahara).


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

madmax199 said:


> They're new coils that are designed for plugs in a different combustion chamber, nobody can say for sure. I'd start a .028 and move down there. The OEM gap recomendation is way too big and is there to guarranty smooth idle in extreme situations (think North pole and Sahara).


Exactly, my experience is that people are apprehensive to run a smaller gap. Why, I'm not sure.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

20v master said:


> Exactly, my experience is that people are apprehensive to run a smaller gap. *Why, I'm not sure*.


Not everybody has to have the best performing engine they could. Some people prefer it tame, numb and boring :laugh:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

:laugh:


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

Pulled it from a ina post  :

1. Why would I convert my 1.8T to use 2.0T coils?

Allthough when we dissected the 2.0T Coil , internally it was the same as a 1.8T unit. I am waiting on getting a 2.8 24V Coil Pack so I can throw up a comparison shot but in the mean time running the 2.0T Coils allow you to run a hotter spark. We have a few local customers that we did the conversion for and they are extremely happy with the results. 2. What is the largest gap I can run with these coil packs?

0.04" is what we used. If others have used larger please chime in and post up the data. 3. Why is the adapter plate needed??

The OEM 2.0T Coils are approx 14mm taller than the 1.8T units. In order to have a seal that allows some form of security with the valve cover, the coil pack requires an adapter plate. 4. What are the PART #'s ?

RED MKV FSI Coil Packs - 06E 905 115 BLACK MKV FSI Coil Packs - 07K 905 715 F BLACK MKV TSI Coil Packs - 06F 905 115 F BLACK MKVI TSI Coil Packs - 06H 905 115


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

01ttgt28 said:


> Pulled it from a ina post  :
> 
> 1. Why would I convert my 1.8T to use 2.0T coils?
> 
> *but in the mean time running the 2.0T Coils allow you to run a hotter spark*. We have a few local customers that we did the conversion for and they are extremely happy with the results.


I would have loved to pick his brain on that! Maybe we have a different understanding of how ignition works but how does internally identical coils allow to run a hotter spark? To me, that would have to be influenced by the plug and it's heat range, not the coil? Also, since when running a hotter than needed spark a performance advantage (maybe increasing the risk of pre-ignition has become trendy)? More questions than answers and that lead me to believe that there is no proven advantage beside the speculated reliability.


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## deepblueT (Jan 26, 2008)

TECHNICAL SCHMECHNICAL! i have them on the car two weeks now and i'm sold! all i know is that my factory coils on BKR7E's ran like dog $hit, the "revised" coils i had on BKR7E's ran like horse $hit, and these 2.0's on BKR7E's are AMAZING!


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

deepblueT said:


> TECHNICAL SCHMECHNICAL! i have them on the car two weeks now and i'm sold! all i know is that my factory coils on BKR7E's ran like dog $hit, the "revised" coils i had on BKR7E's ran like horse $hit, and these 2.0's on BKR7E's are AMAZING!


I 2nd that. My idle has never been smoother and im getting much smoother revs in the upper RPMs


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

If we were in a Geico commercial, " that's Amazing" would cut it but I need more than that to convince me to invest money when my coils are running 100% (thanks Doug!). Can somebody provide something better than "amazing" to illustrate or prove why *good running revised OEM coils with good plugs *are at a disadvantage over these?


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

madmax199 said:


> If we were in a Geico commercial, " that's Amazing" would cut it but I need more than that to convince me to invest money when my coils are running 100% (thanks Doug!). Can somebody provide something better than "amazing" to illustrate or prove why *good running revised OEM coils with good plugs *are at a disadvantage over these?


Some times youve gotta drink the Kool-aid to know its tasty


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

I'm with Max, "smoother revs" isn't really concrete. Nothing that would affect the "smoothness" of a change in engine speed has been altered. You didn't add a damper, change piston/rod/crank/FW weight, or balance the engine by installing new coils. If Issam, who I will refrain from commenting on, says the coils are identical internally, then how does this allow a "hotter spark?" How was this measured? What is controlling the "heat" of the spark? :sly:


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

What about this http://www.okadaprojects.com/usa/products_lift.htm
I would say get plasma Coil packs but their like $800 :screwy:


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

If that used plasma it would cut through the internals lol


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## zak2006 (May 5, 2011)

Below is a link to a mustang forum discussion about COP's. Maybe a test/tester of this sort would be able to shed some light on this subject.

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/99-04/191470-diy-cop-tester.html


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## Tempes_TT (Oct 24, 2010)

This is interesting... opcorn:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

01ttgt28 said:


> What about this http://www.okadaprojects.com/usa/products_lift.htm
> I would say get plasma Coil packs but their like $800 :screwy:


Yeah, those are the ones that are just stock coils with red LED's on them. :laugh:

But that Plasma Lift product....

"Furthermore, the Plasma Lift is designed so that the voltage adjustment is possible. This feature will give you more freedom to adjust air/fuel ratio and plug gap and performance is increased."

I didn't know that with a better spark, you can run leaner. :screwy:


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## zak2006 (May 5, 2011)

20v master said:


> Yeah, those are the ones that are just stock coils with red LED's on them. :laugh:
> 
> But that Plasma Lift product....
> 
> ...


thats not the info i was referring to in that thread...hopefully your realized that:sly:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

zak2006 said:


> thats not the info i was referring to in that thread...hopefully your realized that:sly:


I didn't quote or reply to you, nor did I click on the Mustang thread link you posted. :thumbup:


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## ILLA NOIZ (Jul 2, 2007)

What is the part number for the 1.8T (AMU) adapters? With the square design shape. 

I'm due for new plugs and likely coils - May go this route as with 118k on the clock all the little things that help smooth idling and drive-ability are an option. 

There may be no concrete data - But numerous Butt Dynos can't be wrong. 

opcorn: Still watching this in the meantime.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

How are you due for coils if yours are still working?


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

20v master said:


> I'm with Max, "smoother revs" isn't really concrete. Nothing that would affect the "smoothness" of a change in engine speed has been altered. You didn't add a damper, change piston/rod/crank/FW weight, or balance the engine by installing new coils. If Issam, who I will refrain from commenting on, says the coils are identical internally, then how does this allow a "hotter spark?" How was this measured? What is controlling the "heat" of the spark? :sly:


You are correct in that aspect that nothing internally was changed but I will break it down in layman's terms for all to understand.
I found the tower of the coil was identical but it would be impossible for me to sit down and count the # of coil windings in the coil itself which as we can clearly see now are performing differently. I posted that in the coil pack upgrade thread and the results speak for themselves. Skepticism aside....I think it will documented now that this upgrade is worth it.

Getting back to the point of smoothness. Lets us go back to engine basics....throttle input is directly proportional to you pressing your foot on the gas correct? Ever tried reving a diesel motor to 7000 rpm's? The whole point of increasing engine performance is by increasing its efficiency , how it responds , etc. I cant comment on EVERY SINGLE build thread on the planet but lets look back at the throttle body upgrade program for a minute. When we talk about engine smoothness , we talk about the engines resistance to increase rpm's. 
I first noticed this when we were dyno testing the throttle bodies. Literally @ 6000 rpm's we could see the engine struggling to get past this point on a stock 60mm throttle body. Going to a 70mm unit allowed us to ease past that point with minimal fight from the motor.

All of the vehicles we have done here , the customers have noted that the vehicle is much smoother to drive , in other words you put your foot on the gas and it goes. Its no secret having the larger spark and 25+ psi does wonders where before it wouldn't.

Let me know if that was concrete enough


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

I can understand that people are sceptical about the benefits of theses coils, but how could anyone possibly think the stock coils arent complete ****..?


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

warranty225cpe said:


> I can understand that people are sceptical about the benefits of theses coils, but how could anyone possibly think the stock coils arent complete ****..?


They are not complete **** but at the same time they are not the best out there either.
We use 1.8T coils in old school inline-5 transplants and even 12V VR6's on standalone!:thumbup:


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## deepblueT (Jan 26, 2008)

madmax199 said:


> If we were in a Geico commercial, " that's Amazing" would cut it but I need more than that to convince me to invest money when my coils are running 100% (thanks Doug!). Can somebody provide something better than "amazing" to illustrate or prove why *good running revised OEM coils with good plugs *are at a disadvantage over these?


i know what your saying, honestly, if my stock coils were working 100% i wouldn't have been looking for an alternative/fix. but i needed them and now i'm a beleiver!


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

20v master said:


> Yeah, those are the ones that are just stock coils with red LED's on them. :laugh:
> 
> But that Plasma Lift product....
> 
> ...


What do u think worth the extra $$$$$ http://www.eurotuner.com/techarticl...s_ignition_coils_audi_fsi_motor/photo_05.html.


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

INA said:


> They are not complete **** but at the same time they are not the best out there either.
> We use 1.8T coils in old school inline-5 transplants and even 12V VR6's on standalone!:thumbup:


Have u tried the 2.8 24V Coil Pack yet to see if their better:thumbup:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

INA said:


> You are correct in that aspect that nothing internally was changed but I will break it down in layman's terms for all to understand.
> I found the tower of the coil was identical but it would be impossible for me to sit down and count the # of coil windings in the coil itself which as we can clearly see now are performing differently. I posted that in the coil pack upgrade thread and the results speak for themselves. Skepticism aside....I think it will documented now that this upgrade is worth it.
> 
> Getting back to the point of smoothness. Lets us go back to engine basics....throttle input is directly proportional to you pressing your foot on the gas correct? Ever tried reving a diesel motor to 7000 rpm's? The whole point of increasing engine performance is by increasing its efficiency , how it responds , etc. I cant comment on EVERY SINGLE build thread on the planet but lets look back at the throttle body upgrade program for a minute. When we talk about engine smoothness , we talk about the engines resistance to increase rpm's.
> ...


That's not concrete at all. A flow restriction vs an unmeasureable change in spark temperature isn't really proof of anything.


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

20v master said:


> That's not concrete at all. A flow restriction vs an unmeasureable change in spark temperature isn't really proof of anything.


You are entitled to be a skeptic as you wish but here is some proof that this set up works.
RUN :


PRE 07K Coil - 22 psi + 0.028" plug gap - car idles like crap but runs fine
PRE 07K Coil - 27 psi + 0.028" plug gap - car idles like crap , misfires
PRE 07K Coil - NEW 1.8T Coils (version D latest revision) - 21 psi + 0.028" plug gap - car idles like crap but misfires go away.
PRE 07K Coil - NEW 1.8T Coils (version D latest revision) - 21 psi + 0.040" plug gap - idle is greatly improved , no misfires recorded.
PRE 07K Coil - NEW 1.8T Coils (version D latest revision) - 27 psi + 0.040" plug gap - idle is greatly improved , test drive does not make it 100m down the road before check engine light comes on.

New NGK BKR7E plugs installed gapped to 0.040"
Set of 07K black coils from a MKV 2.5 Jetta installed along with adapter plates

POST 07K Coil - 27 psi + 0.040" plug gap - idle is drastically improved (no hunting idle noticed), no misfires and no check engine light. Vehicle is able to run a higher boost pressure with an "OEM" plug gap.


We can all sit here and argue until we are blue in the face or you go go out and try these yourself.
:thumbup:


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

01ttgt28 said:


> Have u tried the 2.8 24V Coil Pack yet to see if their better:thumbup:


Not as yet no.
We are going to try the 3.6 FSI coils from a Passat onto a turbo R32 shortly to see how the results go.


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## ILLA NOIZ (Jul 2, 2007)

20v master said:


> How are you due for coils if yours are still working?


Not exactly meaning "due" for coils - perhaps a poor choice of words. But the Car has it's bugs and bad idle and inconsistent throttle is one of them. I fixed a vac leak that helped and have systematically been going through typical wear and tear "tune up" items. 

In addition to new plugs, I plan to clean the MAF this weekend. The Coils are a possibility and so far the feedback has been good. I would be weary if people were claiming a 10hp gain... but smoother idle and better response/drive-ability sounds like a win.


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## ILLA NOIZ (Jul 2, 2007)

Isaam - Do you in fact have the square adapter plates?


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

ILLA NOIZ said:


> Isaam - Do you in fact have the square adapter plates?


This?


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

ILLA NOIZ said:


> Isaam - Do you in fact have the square adapter plates?


V1.3's?
been out for 3 months now. 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...il-Pack-Adapters-(TECH-amp-FAQ)-INTRO-PRICING



















Regular pricing is $89 USD with DHL express shipped. 10 of you pool together and we will do $80 USD shipped in the lower 48. If payment is received on Monday you will have your plates on Tuesday.
paypal is sales[at]inaengineering.com

We have (35) Black anodized kits and (26) silver anodized kits


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## SchmidTT (Aug 5, 2011)

Why buy the adapter plates? seriously...

mine are just popped right onto the plug... and have been for about 2000 miles....

sooo... whats the big deal? square hole and a round peg bother peoples right brain lobe or something?

they dont pop off even when i tug on them... i literally have to wrap my hands around the base and pull straight up to get them to pop off. 

save your 90 bucks for starbucks coffee and tentacle porn. :beer:


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## SchmidTT (Aug 5, 2011)

SchmidTT said:


> Why buy the adapter plates? seriously...
> 
> mine are just popped right onto the plug... and have been for about 2000 miles....
> 
> ...


i should probably add this: if the plates offer an actual advantage that i'm not aware of... i'm all for it. i've just not noticed any issues with popping the coil right down on the plug.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Same here. Mine went in super snug without the spacers. Ran like that for a day. They might not be "needed", but they are a good idea.


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## SchmidTT (Aug 5, 2011)

warranty225cpe said:


> but they are a good idea.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

They look better. And that's all I've got


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## MKllllvr28 (Sep 15, 2005)

They make a good seal so crap doesn't fall down in there.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Well guys, an update...

After this thread, I decided to run a gap of .28. (originaly i was running .32)I just wanted to keep things as close to the norm as possible. The car ran a little smoother, but no real big difference. I had a misfire cel come up the other day, and I was feeling the same, typical 1.8 crap idle. So yesterday I pulled the plugs and opened up the gap from .28 to .36, and I must say, it made a MAJOR difference in my idle, and general smooth running rev. All in all, I'm SOLD. I think I'll try to open up to a full .40 and see how it runs. These things really like the bigger gap.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Can you update again in another week?


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

PLAYED TT said:


> Can you update again in another week?


Will do. I'll run them at .36 for a week, then bump them up to .40.


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## deltaP (Jul 26, 2011)

Am I hearing you guys say the adator plates are not needed?


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## NIGHTWOLF (Jan 30, 2005)

I put Red top MKV coils in with NGK BK7RE at .30, been running good for 200 miles so far. Things seem smoother, but then again they are new plugs and coils :/

Warranty, reading through all your TT woes makes me a car hypochondriac!


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## bvgoosedd (Mar 5, 2009)

Just to see. Whats coils and what gap for a big turbo car. Like a gt30 runing water meth at 26 psi?


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

bvgoosedd said:


> Just to see. Whats coils and what gap for a big turbo car. Like a gt30 runing water meth at 26 psi?


06E
NGK BKR7E
$7 plugs never worked so well:thumbup:


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

NIGHTWOLF said:


> Warranty, reading through all your TT woes makes me a car hypochondriac!


Lol, so true. Every time I hear a new noise, I cringe like an abused child.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Btw, bumped up the gap to .40 tonight. Haven't driven it yet. I'll give an update tomorrow once I get some seat time.:thumbup:


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

:thumbup:


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

idk, ive never had an issue with the oem coils on my 225....maybe its just me.
im just chipped with exhaust and intake.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

speed51133! said:


> idk, ive never had an issue with the oem coils on my 225....maybe its just me.
> im just chipped with exhaust and intake.


Regardless of mods. There's no way you would know how much better the 2.0 cps are because your used to the idle from the 1.8ts. If you did the 2.0, you would notice the difference right away.


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## zak2006 (May 5, 2011)

speed51133! said:


> idk, ive never had an issue with the oem coils on my 225....maybe its just me.
> im just chipped with exhaust and intake.


I am completely stock, and i have not had an issue with the oem's either. Idle is very consistent and idles just as well as the ram. if yo want to feel a choppy idle ya'll should check out my buell


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

warranty225cpe said:


> Regardless of mods. There's no way you would know how much better the 2.0 cps are because your used to the idle from the 1.8ts. If you did the 2.0, you would notice the difference right away.


Dont worry about Mike.
He will be 2.0T Coil before Friday! Right Mike? :thumbup:


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

haha, im always looking for things to buy I dont need....like the dry sump setup i have that I used for like 100 miles


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

speed51133! said:


> haha, im always looking for things to buy I dont need....like the dry sump setup i have that I used for like 100 miles


put it on the TT!


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

I think it's funny to hear people say that there idle is fine with stock coil packs, when they don't know what a smooth idle in a 1.8t feels like.


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

i want to put the dry sump on the tt, but then id have to ditch the AC or "figure out" where to mount the pump.....and I dont have time or space to do that now.....unless you want to!!

smooth idle on a 1.8t??? i guess my idle on my 8v turbo and 16v turbo with stand alone was so choppy, this feels like a dream.


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## deltaP (Jul 26, 2011)

OK, I installed the new coil packs today (due to a blown pack) and there is a difference in how smooth the engine idles. I also installed new plugs as well. I did notice the spacers were not needed as the gasket does fit against the valve cover. The new coils do sit higher.:laugh:


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Any updates on the wider gaps?


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

PLAYED TT said:


> Any updates on the wider gaps?


Still at .40, no issues/misfires:thumbup:


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Sweet. I'll have to order these then


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

PLAYED TT said:


> Sweet. I'll have to order these then


order 06E or 07K coils.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

06E = red, 07K = black


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Will do. I want some red FSI coil packs


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Well, an update of sorts. Went to pull out of the garage this morning and felt like I had a coilpack take a crap on me. After a minute the miss went away. Pulled codes and it said misfire on #2 cyl. I pulled the plug and swapped it out with a new one. I regapped all the plugs to .35 (were at .40). I also swapped the coilpacks between #1 & #2. If the miss shows up at cyl 1, it's the coil pack.


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## Jayizdaman (Apr 18, 2005)

warranty225cpe said:


> Well, an update of sorts. Went to pull out of the garage this morning and felt like I had a coilpack take a crap on me. After a minute the miss went away. Pulled codes and it said misfire on #2 cyl. I pulled the plug and swapped it out with a new one. I regapped all the plugs to .35 (were at .40). I also swapped the coilpacks between #1 & #2. If the miss shows up at cyl 1, it's the coil pack.


 Interesting. Someday I think I'll try and run th4se FSI coils(I like the look, and the supposed benefits), but from what I've read the E bolt-down coils are pretty reliable. If this is the only issue you've had running them, it sounds like they're a pretty good alternative :thumbup:


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Yeah but at $20 a piece it won't break your wallet replacing a pack


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## rodhotter (Dec 24, 2003)

*good reading*

DR Jacobs electronics expert had a book on ignitions and improving performance, some stuff i remember, NO exotic metal plugs, wider gaps are better providing your ignition can handle it. a little offbeat but a NHRA top fuel nitro burning monster uses 2 magnetos putting out 44 amps each to fire all 16 plugs for a thousand ft, in perspective hot MSD units put out 1 amp, i believe the is better performance in better ignitions for sure, i would like to see MSD, autotronics co i believe tackle the ignition issues we have


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## 20psi now (Feb 26, 2009)

I find it funny that so many peope have problems with coil packs and I have not had one! I replaced all of mine with some plane jane autozone packs and that was three in a half years ago.. :beer: 










(knock on wood) :laugh:


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

The ones that were in my car when I bought it lasted me 3 years and who knows how long they've been in there for! But alas one went and I said **** them all


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## deepblueT (Jan 26, 2008)

was looking through some old threads and saw this...figured i'd pop in my update...
has to be at least 6 months or better on these coils and the new plugs i installed with them. i have had 0 issues with these... i will in the near future pull everything and take a look at the plugs, i read somewhere that they would need to be replaced more often with these coils and the gap than normal setups...i'm fine with that cause copper plugs are like $7. anyway...anybody still D***ing around with any of the revised or OEM for the MKI $hit with no luck should not look any further than these....and they are RED! even better!


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## Jayizdaman (Apr 18, 2005)

deepblueT said:


> was looking through some old threads and saw this...figured i'd pop in my update...
> has to be at least 6 months or better on these coils and the new plugs i installed with them. i have had 0 issues with these... i will in the near future pull everything and take a look at the plugs, i read somewhere that they would need to be replaced more often with these coils and the gap than normal setups...i'm fine with that cause copper plugs are like $7. anyway...anybody still D***ing around with any of the revised or OEM for the MKI $hit with no luck should not look any further than these....and they are RED! even better!



Nice Intergrated Engineering adapters! Those were the ones I was thinking of going with. (should I do all of this)


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

Jayizdaman said:


> Nice Intergrated Engineering adapters! Those were the ones I was thinking of going with. (should I do all of this)


I would love to see some before and after bt dyno pulls with these:thumbup:


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