# hockey puck motor mounts questions



## n8burnz (Jan 15, 2009)

the mounts holding up my mk3 aba engine and manual transmission are shot. the solution for my budget is hockey puck motor mounts.
so far i have replaced the rear motor mount (passenger side) with pucks. I used the metal piece that used to be in the lower rubber insert and put that up against the bottom of the cup that bolts to the sub frame and the upper part of the mount sits in. through that piece and the bottom of the cup i put a 3/8"x16x6" bolt. I put 3 1/2 drilled hockey pucks on the bolt and they are sitting in the cup. My first question is, should I have something like an enormous washer to distribute the load of the bracket that sits on top of the motor mount throughout the whole mount? or is there enough surface area on the bottom of the bracket that i should be able to just torque it down and not worry about it? right now the bracket bolted to the block is just sitting on top of the pucks with nothing in between and the 6" long bolt is coming up through everything and i have a nut with a lockwasher holding it all together.
My other questions deal with the front motor mount. I haven't been able to find a good DIY for this. How many pucks are needed? What bolts am I going to need?
Is there anything else i should know before I have my car all back together and I try to drive it? I know its gonna vibrate like hell, I want stiff motor mounts.


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## n8burnz (Jan 15, 2009)

*Re: hockey puck motor mounts questions (n8burnz)*

bump for great justice


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## envy. (Jul 27, 2009)

*Re: hockey puck motor mounts questions (n8burnz)*

I have puck mounts, and mine are not that bad. What I did was used 3(?) hockey pucks for the rear mount and used the small (roughly hockey puck sized) stock rubber mount in there as well. that made it very stiff (can't rock the engine by hand) and yet the car is very tame and soft when driven.

try various combinations. you will get the routine down and each remove/install will only take you about 5 minutes.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

The count goes:
front/lower - 1 puck
front/upper - 1 puck ~ OEM piece from front/lower ~ 1 puck (3 stacked)
rear lower - 1 puck
rear/upper - 1 puck ~ OEM piece from rear/lower ~ 1 puck (3 stacked)
trans - OEM G60 mount
My only advice is to NOT use 3 pucks as a replacement for your rear/upper mount. (simulates an all-poly mount). Your car will turn into a paint shaker in the summer. Winter, forget about it. Take them out and replace like I have listed above.
Trust me on this...


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## envy. (Jul 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (tdogg74)*

thanks tdogg, thats a better description of what I meant OP.


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## 2LiterWeapon (May 8, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (tdogg74)*

Is the puck method a smart way to go?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

As long as you drill the bolt holes dead center and you drill them a hair smaller than the bolts that go through them, you will be all set. You dont want any movement because it will round out the hole and then you will get unwanted engine movement and vibration. Other than that, it has the same shore rating as a poly mount, but for $.99 a piece.


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## 2LiterWeapon (May 8, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (tdogg74)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tdogg74* »_As long as you drill the bolt holes dead center and you drill them a hair smaller than the bolts that go through them, you will be all set. You dont want any movement because it will round out the hole and then you will get unwanted engine movement and vibration. Other than that, it has the same shore rating as a poly mount, but for $.99 a piece. 

Sorry to keep this going on, but I am interested in this mod. 
And the mount bracket just sets right on the top puck? Using the OE bolts?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Well, yea. I mean, if you held up the puck next to their respective OE counterpart, its the same dimension. 
I ran pucks for years till I got KDC poly fronts, BFI poly rear/lower, BFI .5 rear/upper, and a G60 trans mount.


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## n8burnz (Jan 15, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (tdogg74)*

thanks. right now i have 3 1/2 pucks stacked for both upper mounts and i dont have lower ones, just the metal plate on the other side of the cups. I dont feel like taking it apart again any time soon so we'll see what happens. I would have put lower mounts in but i couldnt find a bolt long enough to go through all of that.
I do have a mysterious CEL now. maybe the knock sensor getting too much vibration? i'm gonna flash out the code either tomorrow or sunday.


_Modified by n8burnz at 8:46 PM 2-26-2010_


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Jesus do MK3s really have 5 engine mount points?
This is a very cool DIY mod, and i've heard about it on other cars before, MK4 mounts are shaped nothing like the MK3 http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


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## n8burnz (Jan 15, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Jay-Bee)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jay-Bee* »_Jesus do MK3s really have 5 engine mount points?

theres 1 trans mount on the driver side, 1 mount on the front crossmember that has a rubber part on top of and on the bottom of the frame, and 1 engine mount on the passenger side at the rear of the engine which is a cup that bolts to the subframe and has a rubber part on the top and bottom of the cup.
3 mounting points. 2 mounts are 2-piece


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *n8burnz* »_
3 mounting points. 2 mounts are 2-piece


Ah, kk that's what you guys meant by the "upper" and "lower"


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## n8burnz (Jan 15, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Jay-Bee)*

ok, i got the mounts done. currently i have 3 1/2 pucks for both upper mounts and for the lower ones i have 1/2 a puck in the rear, and 1 puck in the front.
now my whole dashboard rattles pretty loudly. how did you guys deal with this?


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## unknowable (Apr 10, 2011)

n8burnz said:


> ok, i got the mounts done. currently i have 3 1/2 pucks for both upper mounts and for the lower ones i have 1/2 a puck in the rear, and 1 puck in the front.
> now my whole dashboard rattles pretty loudly. how did you guys deal with this?


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## mizzuh (Oct 13, 2010)

actual mounts (usually 70 shore hardness or lower) will remove most of the vibrations.. but, in the same breath, if you are going the cheap route, rip out your dash, and start stuffing foam between all contacting metals and plastics. 


back on subject. I currently have BFI .5 mounts front and back. with a g trans mount. would cutting the front and rear mount take away from the shore hardness of them or is this a LB per ^2in rating? also, (most importantly) i need about an inch of engine clearance (lower), would it actually give me the result i am looking for?


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## 1997SLOW (Sep 10, 2011)

*jew*

you guy are ****ing cheap i bought mine for 40 bucks \
\
\
youll spend
2000 on rims n tires but not the ectra 37bucks to get the right part for your car


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## jimivr6 (Feb 18, 2003)

i guess you don't know the sound when your turbo hits the fire wall from motor mounts that can't keep the motor in place. don't ask how i know


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

Is this really better than OE-style replacement mounts?

I had yellow (poly?) motor mounts in my GTI when I bought it (trans mount was stock), and the damn thing rattled the fillings out of my teeth and gave me headaches every time I drove. I swapped in a set of regular OE mounts I had laying around, and couldn't be happier, smoothed everything out. I fail to see the need for super-stiff mounts on a daily street-driven car.


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## Bariman82 (Jan 26, 2004)

I had the BFI Stage .5 mounts and they shook my teeth loose. They never "broke in" or anything that folks say they do with heat cycles and time. Six months later, I put the stock rubber mounts in and sold the BFIs.


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