# obd1 vr boost options.. help appreciated



## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

Converting my obd1 to obd2, then the exciting turbo build


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## PjS860ct (Dec 22, 2002)

if you know what you are doing piecing your own kit would be ideal as you get the parts that you want... but if you dont the kinetic turbo kit is for you

goodluck :beer:


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

These are my current parts for the build:

Precision billet HP6262 68ar 
kinetic manifold
kinetic 3" dp
38mm tial wg
Forge super dv
C2 # 42 software and injectors
4" maf housing
arp head studs
9:1 head spacer

oil feed/return lines
fmi
4 bar fpr


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## V-dubbulyuh (Nov 13, 2005)

kushdubber said:


> I have a parts list of what I think I will need to get around 300 hp.
> 
> Please correct me if i am missing anything major.
> 
> ...


1. Caution on using that, be sure you have a compatible turbine housing (as I did not see mention of using an SRI).

2. Try to get your hands on a set of the older Bosch Bluetops (36). FYI there is another Bosch Bluetop that is not 36 lb so be careful there. I have not used them personally but I know people have had luck with the Lucas injectors also.



kushdubber said:


> And if i decide to use a ic, it will obviously need different software and injectors correct?
> I will get a bov if i go this route, any suggestions?
> 
> Thanks


The use of an IC will not alter your injector or software needs. You will be fine with the chip you selected above. As far as software options for OBD 1 you are basically limited to C2 and Standalone (I don't think United is supporting OBD1 Vr6 at the moment).


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## SVTDanny (Aug 8, 2005)

Do yourself a favor and swap your motor to OBD2 before throwing a turbo kit on there. You will save yourself a ton of headaches down the road. 

C2 will take your money for the OBD1 software all day long, but you'll be lucky to get a response if you're having any problems (And you will have problems).


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

sri meaning a short ram intake? *or short runner?* (short runner in the future)

I have taken note of the bosch bluetops, will look into that.

Thanks:beer:



djsheijkdfj said:


> Do yourself a favor and swap your motor to OBD2 before throwing a turbo kit on there. You will save yourself a ton of headaches down the road.
> 
> C2 will take your money for the OBD1 software all day long, but you'll be lucky to get a response if you're having any problems (And you will have problems).


unfortunatly my motor was swapped this summer so i would rather not deal with that again. what types of problems compared to obd2? and why? if i have a shop for tuning, would they be able to fix those problems?

Thanks:beer:


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## SVTDanny (Aug 8, 2005)

No. OBD1 is archaic and nobody wants to mess with it. From what I've seen, what seems to have happened is that Jeff wrote the OBD1 tunes when he was with C2, then he left, and doesn't mess with OBD1 anymore. C2 is stuck with the tunes, but nobody that knows how to do anything with them to further tweak them. Essentially, C2 is still selling a flawed product that they are either unable or unwilling to support.

Jeff told me himself that he recommends 100% everyone swap to OBD2 before doing anything, because the OBD1 ECU is extremely limited and there will always be quirks in the tune. 

You don't have to swap the whole motor, just the engine bay harness, engine harness, MAF, O2 sensors, upper intake, throttle body, and ECU. Nothing that couldn't be accomplished in a Saturday afternoon. 

An option for OBD1 is to use the Ostrich emulator stuff to tune your own car, but unless you are well versed in dissecting maps within a BIN file and are able to figure out exactly what does what, you won't be getting anywhere. It's far easier/cheaper just to go to OBD2.


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## V-dubbulyuh (Nov 13, 2005)

djsheijkdfj said:


> You don't have to swap the whole motor, just the engine bay harness, engine harness, MAF, O2 sensors, upper intake, throttle body, and ECU. Nothing that couldn't be accomplished in a Saturday afternoon.


You should have provided links to the several swap/conversion threads or you can bet that this will as usual become yet another "How to: OBD1 to OBD2" with the typical single vs dual row, yada-yada BS thread. :thumbup:

I'm too lazy right now to search and post them up... but as many times as that topic has been addressed it should not be hard to find.


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

Thanks guys!

Ok so before I start this project I am going to do this conversion. I have been reading and it will be a lot easier to tune with the c2 software. Problems are the last thing I want.

So, I am going to need the following (correct me if im wrong)
obd2:
ECU
Intake mani
harness (engine bay/engine)
crank shaft sensor?????
o2 sensors- how many?
fpr?
MAF - just a stock obd2?
throttle body


PLEASE let me know what im missing, and maybe what i dont need if I will be using C2 software.

Anyone that reads this with some knowledge, your help is appreciated as i would like to get this rolling asap!!
opcorn:


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

V-dubbulyuh said:


> You should have provided links to the several swap/conversion threads or you can bet that this will as usual become yet another "How to: OBD1 to OBD2" with the typical single vs dual row, yada-yada BS thread. :thumbup:
> 
> I'm too lazy right now to search and post them up... but as many times as that topic has been addressed it should not be hard to find.


id rather this be a turbo build IF this thread continues. Once i have my parts list for the obd conversion I can figure that out on my own

:beer::beer::beer::beer:


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## SVTDanny (Aug 8, 2005)

kushdubber said:


> obd2:
> ECU
> Intake mani - upper only
> harness (engine bay/engine)
> ...



Fixed/edited.


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

djsheijkdfj said:


> camshaft position sensor, I believe you only need this if you swap to a single chain though


Do I need to swap to single chain or can I leave as is?

Less work the better lol


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## SVTDanny (Aug 8, 2005)

You can leave it, although if you're doing the chains anyway, might as well just switch to the single upper.


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## V-dubbulyuh (Nov 13, 2005)

V-dubbulyuh said:


> You should have provided links to the several swap/conversion threads or you can bet that this will as usual become yet another "How to: OBD1 to OBD2" with the *typical single vs dual row*, yada-yada BS thread. :thumbup:





kushdubber said:


> Do I need to swap to single chain or can I leave as is?
> 
> Less work the better lol


You can't say I didn't call it out. 

Leave it dual row, that is fine.


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

V-dubbulyuh said:


> You can't say I didn't call it out.
> 
> Leave it dual row, that is fine.


hahahaha, awesome.

I am going to leave it.



djsheijkdfj said:


> You can leave it, although if you're doing the chains anyway, might as well just switch to the single upper.


Thanks dj for your help. I am going to start looking for these pcs asap


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

im gonna plan on running a t04 60-1, what size hg spacer should i get? 

whats the difference between 8:5:1 and 9:1?


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

kushdubber said:


> im gonna plan on running a t04 60-1, what size hg spacer should i get?


:beer:


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## PjS860ct (Dec 22, 2002)

go with 9:1 spacer as its the best of both worlds...

someone once said that run 8.5:1cr if you want to get the record of most hp out of 87 octane:laugh:

Ive run 25+psi (actually hitting my boost cut at 27psi a couple of times)on 9:1cr on 93oct with water/meth with my old setup using Precision's PT61 turbo with a stock vr with the 9:1 spacer...


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

PjS860ct said:


> go with 9:1 spacer as its the best of both worlds...
> 
> someone once said that run 8.5:1cr if you want to get the record of most hp out of 87 octane:laugh:
> 
> Ive run 25+psi (actually hitting my boost cut at 27psi a couple of times)on 9:1cr on 93oct with water/meth with my old setup using Precision's PT61 turbo with a stock vr with the 9:1 spacer...


 lol 

thanks im gonna order one right now :beer:


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

I am about to order my parts. But first can someone fill me in on the battle between bov's & dv's? 

I have decided to go with the dv. 

Thanks:beer:


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## cant get a password (Sep 24, 2004)

I went a differnt route I picked up a used megasquirt and harness for $250 on my local craigslist and took a bad obd1 ecu and took the connector off of the board and made my own plug and play harness. 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...play-megasquirt-harness-for-a-vr6-distributor


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

cant get a password said:


> I went a differnt route I picked up a used megasquirt and harness for $250 on my local craigslist and took a bad obd1 ecu and took the connector off of the board and made my own plug and play harness.
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...play-megasquirt-harness-for-a-vr6-distributor


 thats a nice project dude glad it worked out!! However id never be able to do that lol


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

Ordered my parts from cts. 

I just want to say thanks to Clay, great guy!!:beer:


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

I have 2 questions.

Why does everyone run bovs? I have been told, and i have read, that a dv is much better for these set ups. Is it the software? If so, what other software do they run, aside from c2?

Also, what is entailed in moving my battery to the trunk? Extended power/ground wires to a battery box in the back?


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## SVTDanny (Aug 8, 2005)

I run a BOV just because I didn't have time to mess with welding a recirc fitting onto the turbo inlet piping. You really should run a DV (Just like I need to) with a MAF based system like ours. When the BOV vents the air, the MAF has already counted that air, and so it just dumps fuel everytime you let off in boost. If you go to a different management and run speed density or some other option that isn't MAF based, you can vent to atmosphere all you want.

Run a 0 gauge power cable to the back of the car. Ground the battery to the floor pan, and ground everything up front into the frame rail, or to another central ground.


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

Awesome thanks:beer:

Will the dv be moutned to my ic piping? and recirculated to the maf intake pipe? ( and mounted after maf sensor?)


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## 22beast (Jul 27, 2010)

Don't mean to intrude on your thread but you seem to be getting some good responses from people who know what they are talking about.

Question:

what are the limitations for a stock 12v vr6 head, say running a 263 cam. i have a fully built short block on the way...

I plan on running at least a gt30r


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

Can someone please help me identify the two following parts? I have looked through my bentley, but I might be looking at something wrong.










&










Thanks!


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## SVTDanny (Aug 8, 2005)

1. Idle stabilizer valve

2. Auxiliary water pump


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

Do I have to route the isv tube to my intake that mounts to the turbo? 
Also, the pvc pipe that runs off the valve cover goes into my intake as well correct?


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## SVTDanny (Aug 8, 2005)

One side of the ISV goes to the intake, the other side goes into your charge piping. The ISV won't hold boost, so both sides need to be post-compressor. 

Yes , PCV goes to the intake pre-compressor.


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

djsheijkdfj said:


> One side of the ISV goes to the intake, the other side goes into your charge piping. The ISV won't hold boost, so both sides need to be post-compressor.
> 
> Yes , PCV goes to the intake pre-compressor.


Thanks:beer::beer:


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

Can I delete the isv? Its looking like the obd2 harness does not have a plug for it and I dont know how I would add one in there. I have seen people delete this part.


Thanks for any help


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

did that ^^


Another q, is there a specific way to remove the clips into the fuse box?????


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## SVTDanny (Aug 8, 2005)

If you're going to OBD2, then no, there's no ISV - its function is replaced by the stepper motor in the throttle body. 

Are you talk about the plugs into the back of the fuse block? Just hold down the tabs and wiggle, they can be pretty stuck in there. You can use a small flathead to pry them out.


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

djsheijkdfj said:


> If you're going to OBD2, then no, there's no ISV - its function is replaced by the stepper motor in the throttle body.
> 
> Are you talk about the plugs into the back of the fuse block? Just hold down the tabs and wiggle, they can be pretty stuck in there. You can use a small flathead to pry them out.


Ok cool. I will try the screw driver again lol

thanks:beer:


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)




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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

I tried posting a pic of my parts but it didnt work, ill post it soon... :laugh:

On another note, i need some tips for fueling. I have a custom sri and it came with a fuel rail. I will need bigger fuel lines (assuming the size of feed and return) and a way to hook up an fpr, I heard it was a bitch..

Can someone please show me some pics or just give me some general info about how i can set all this **** up? I also would like to install a fuel pump, so any directions on the install for that would be GREAT!

I am getting really close to start this build and would like to cover everything before I get stuck.

:beer::beer::beer:


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

opcorn:


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

Any fueling pictures of your setups would be great 
Thanks:beer:


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

opcorn:


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

If I run steel braided fuel lines do i run them to where the stock ones attatch near the shock tower? or do you guys run them all the way back?


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

Another fueling question. I am looking at this fpr adapter..

http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/2503/BBM_VR6_12V_Fuel_Rail

It looks like the fpr would mount on the oposite side of stock. If this is the case, would i plug the far side of my fuel rail(driver side)? feed like goes in the top, return is in the bottom correct me if im wrong

OR

Would I be good running stock fuel lines to this adapter? I am running #42 injectors

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...&Product_Code=ATP-VVW-108&Category_Code=VVWFE


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

After doing some more reading, i can ditch the whole fpr adapter idea and use an ajustable one. I am thinking it will be better for the long run and tuning? 

This way I can hood up the feed and return fuel lines to each end of my rail and hook those up to my adj fpr. 

still my question is, should I upgrade all my lines to braided ones? I plan on installing an inline fuel pump as well.. so whatever help on that would be great.

Correct me if any of that is wrong

THanks!:beer:


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

opcorn:


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## lugnuts (Jul 26, 2001)

Just a helpful hint (before breaking the locating tabls off of your engine harness copnnectors) - there is a plastic "locking bar" that slides over about 1/2", this must be moved before attempting to remove the connectors from your CE2 panel. 

If you don't want to remove your OBD1 harness, you do have other engine management options.


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

lugnuts said:


> Just a helpful hint (before breaking the locating tabls off of your engine harness copnnectors) - there is a plastic "locking bar" that slides over about 1/2", this must be moved before attempting to remove the connectors from your CE2 panel.
> 
> If you don't want to remove your OBD1 harness, you do have other engine management options.


At the time this seemed to be my best option price wise. Im way over my budget now anyways.

But hat would make sense why they wont come out. Thanks for the tip i will give it a try:beer:


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

This gasket came with my kit but i gets in the way of the 4 outer holes as you can see. Is this the wrong gasket? What is the point of the inner holes?

thanks


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

lugnuts said:


> Just a helpful hint (before breaking the locating tabls off of your engine harness copnnectors) - there is a plastic "locking bar" that slides over about 1/2", this must be moved before attempting to remove the connectors from your CE2 panel.
> 
> If you don't want to remove your OBD1 harness, you do have other engine management options.


thanks man all the necessary plugs came out. 3/4 of the way done the harness swap :beer:


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## optiks (Mar 15, 2003)

haha im running this exact turbo on my VRT , you whole setup is pretty much the same and i also converted from obd1 to obd2 hit me up if you have any q's


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

optiks said:


> haha im running this exact turbo on my VRT , you whole setup is pretty much the same and i also converted from obd1 to obd2 hit me up if you have any q's


thanks man! :beer:


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## SVTDanny (Aug 8, 2005)

That gasket is for a T3 inlet.


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

****ty.. time to order the right one.

so i can bolt the turbo up without filling in those inner holes then? I just dont understand why my manifold would have both. i guess it can be used for both applications..

thanks!


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

*Fueling*

hi guys, i have a question on fueling and setup with an adjustable fpr

I have all my lines and fittings as well as an aeromotive fpr.. there are 3 in/out ports on my fpr and I have read through the setup manual which is telling me 2 ways to hook this up.

#1 Block of the far end of my fuel rail. Run the feed line from the fuel pump into the fpr, and the other side (feed) into my rail. then i would run my return line from the bottom port on the fpr to my return line to tank

#2 on the digram is running feed from my fuel pump to the far end (driver side) of my rail, then connecting the other side (passenger) of the rail to the port on the fpr. and then connecting my return from the bottom of the fpr to my return line to tank

sry if it sounds confusing. hope someone can shed some light from a past experience.

thanks:beer:


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## PjS860ct (Dec 22, 2002)

Fuel feed line from the pump goes directly to the fuel rail inlet closes to pass. Side fender...

Outlet is the far side n that goes to the side of the adj fpr...

The bottom of the fpr is for the return and that goes to the tank...

Post pics when ut done


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

PjS860ct said:


> Fuel feed line from the pump goes directly to the fuel rail inlet closes to pass. Side fender...
> 
> Outlet is the far side n that goes to the side of the adj fpr...
> 
> ...



Thanks! I will!:beer::beer::beer:


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

my bad. can i cap off the un used port on the fpr? (2 out of 3 will be occupied)


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## PjS860ct (Dec 22, 2002)

Yes u can cap off the un used port :beer:


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

THanks!


Another question I have been thinking about. I am wondering how to mount the dv.. i know it goes on the charge piping but I have seen it installed 2 different ways. 1) the bottom port is attached to the charge pipe and the side connects to the intake to recirculate. 2) or the opposite. side attached to charge pipe and bottom to intake.

the second option imo would look a lot cleaner, i can install it upright.

whats the difference and why are people running two different ways? can this be changed by switching the vac line to a boost line to reverse when the valve opens and closes? or vice verca...:screwy:

a good picture for a reference to option 2 would be Dm Motorsports Red Rocket with x2 dv's

thnx


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## PjS860ct (Dec 22, 2002)

Install it the normal way or option 1  look into the tial dv if u havent bought 1 yet...


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

I have the forge super dv. i hope its not too big..


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## PjS860ct (Dec 22, 2002)

Super dv is fine/perfect... my friend had it in his old vrt


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

sick thanks. it looks dope :laugh:


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## PjS860ct (Dec 22, 2002)

blurry pic but you get the idea 









found a better pic


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

great shot thanks man :beer:


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

finaly i got all the nuts tight on the exhaust mani, that was a bitch.:facepalm:

i went to bolt up the turbo and realized that one of the nuts is too big to turn onto the threads. does anyone use a smaller nut? see below pic for reference..

also, i clocked the compressor side of the turbo, pretty easy. but looking at the picture, it seems i am going to have to clock the exhaust side now too? the oil drain should be at the bottom, am i able to rotate the hot side? if so, is it the same deal as the cool side?

thanks,


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## PjS860ct (Dec 22, 2002)

put that nut on first... dont put the turbo all the way down the stud when you put the nut on... 

also loosen both the compressor bolts and the turbine bolts to clock the center housing... you can do this while the turbo is on the manifold or take the turbo off and clock it which is easier as you have more room to get access to the bolts...

also install the return flange and return line on before you put the turbo back on the manifold...:beer:


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## CorradoFuhrer (Mar 21, 2002)

kushdubber said:


> finaly i got all the nuts tight on the exhaust mani, that was a bitch.:facepalm:
> 
> i went to bolt up the turbo and realized that one of the nuts is too big to turn onto the threads. does anyone use a smaller nut? see below pic for reference..
> 
> ...


just ran int this with my install. I wound up cutting studs on the bottom. Like stated, put the turbon on the edge of the bottom studs so just the first few threads are showing, then start the nut. 

GAP vs OEM nuts - This is why I had such a problem with mine. 










I bent up my studs a but my mani didn't leak, got lucky. I still ordered replacement studs which ill be installing sooner than expected :beer:

both sides will turn, just loosen up those bolts. and for your DV - if your not running a boost controller leave the top port OPEN and nipple off turbo to the sideport. If your turbo doesnt have a vac port then mani + DV + EVAP (with check valve) if no check valve I left the evap open and alone, didn't seem to hurt anything.


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## PjS860ct (Dec 22, 2002)

CorradoFuhrer;75078437
and for your DV - if your not running a boost controller leave the top port OPEN and nipple off turbo to the sideport. If your turbo doesnt have a vac port then mani + DV + EVAP (with check valve) if no check valve I left the evap open and alone said:


> you mean wastegate? and not DV= diverter valve...


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

PjS860ct said:


> you mean wastegate? and not DV= diverter valve...


I think he means that.

I am hooking up boost line from compressor to wg. And dv vac line to intake mani. 

Thanks pj I'll try that. Corrado thanks but I didn't have to cut any studds, you have a kinetic mani?


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## CorradoFuhrer (Mar 21, 2002)

Yeah I meant wastegate. Sorry. Leave the top OPEN if you don't have a boost controller. 

Yes kinetic manifold... An older one. Which exhaust mani nuts did you have (reference my picture) gap sent me ones with built in washers which were bigger than oem, gave me trouble because the rim of the nut would get hung up on the manifold.


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## CorradoFuhrer (Mar 21, 2002)

kushdubber said:


> THanks!
> 
> 
> Another question I have been thinking about. I am wondering how to mount the dv.. i know it goes on the charge piping but I have seen it installed 2 different ways. 1) the bottom port is attached to the charge pipe and the side connects to the intake to recirculate. 2) or the opposite. side attached to charge pipe and bottom to intake.
> ...


I saw this to, the right way is with the bottom port going to the mafs... I guess the other way looks a bit cleaner, and makes the squeak more bov sound, but is supposedly bad for the diaphram. Heard this is debatable though. I prefer the correct way with the whoosh sound.


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

CorradoFuhrer said:


> Yeah I meant wastegate. Sorry. Leave the top OPEN if you don't have a boost controller.
> 
> Yes kinetic manifold... An older one. Which exhaust mani nuts did you have (reference my picture) gap sent me ones with built in washers which were bigger than oem, gave me trouble because the rim of the nut would get hung up on the manifold.


ya i have a mbc so ill be using the top line too.

maybe the older one slopes down more.. i ordered stock washers and nuts from vw, but the washers were too small. so i got some heavy metal lock washers. im hoping that will be fine


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

CorradoFuhrer said:


> I saw this to, the right way is with the bottom port going to the mafs... I guess the other way looks a bit cleaner, and makes the squeak more bov sound, but is supposedly bad for the diaphram. Heard this is debatable though. I prefer the correct way with the whoosh sound.


ya i think ill install it normally, i hope to find a nice spot for it once i get the ic piping done:laugh:


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## CorradoFuhrer (Mar 21, 2002)

kushdubber said:


> ya i have a mbc so ill be using the top line too.
> 
> maybe the older one slopes down more.. i ordered stock washers and nuts from vw, but the washers were too small. so i got some heavy metal lock washers. im hoping that will be fine


My washers were a bit too small as well, hence why my studs got bent from the washer not seating flat on the turbo manifold.


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## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

kushdubber said:


> ya i have a mbc so ill be using the top line too.
> 
> maybe the older one slopes down more.. i ordered stock washers and nuts from vw, but the washers were too small. so i got some heavy metal lock washers. im hoping that will be fine


if you're using a bleeder style manual valve, you do not need to use the top port. you just put the valve on the signal (side) port/line.


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

TBT-Syncro said:


> if you're using a bleeder style manual valve, you do not need to use the top port. you just put the valve on the signal (side) port/line.


so i would have the boost line run from compressor to mbc then to side port on the wg?


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## PjS860ct (Dec 22, 2002)

yup


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

PjS860ct said:


> yup


 thanks!

merry christmas:snowcool:


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## CorradoFuhrer (Mar 21, 2002)

TBT-Syncro said:


> if you're using a bleeder style manual valve, you do not need to use the top port. you just put the valve on the signal (side) port/line.


what style utilizes the top port of the WG? What's the top port even for?


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## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

CorradoFuhrer said:


> what style utilizes the top port of the WG? What's the top port even for?


when you use a controller that has a boost solenoid the top port is used by the controller to put extra pressure on the top of the spring (to keep it from leaking, and to increase the pressure beyond the springs rate)


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## CorradoFuhrer (Mar 21, 2002)

ok, so let me get this straight, with out a boost controller of this type. How much will it over boost if you have boost going to the side and top ports? Like double? I had the 6 lb spring in there.

so basically you use the top to aid in boosting it more than the springs rate inside the WG.


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

CorradoFuhrer said:


> ok, so let me get this straight, with out a boost controller of this type. How much will it over boost if you have boost going to the side and top ports? Like double? I had the 6 lb spring in there.
> 
> so basically you use the top to aid in boosting it more than the springs rate inside the WG.


pretty sure top port is used with electronic boost controller if you dont have one just use the side.


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

ok so i hooked up my oil lines yesterday and everythings nice n tight, but my question is about thread sealant.

i have read many times to use tephlon tape but thats apparently bad for the turbo. So what should I do? Leave them in there without any sealant, or take them off and put something on the threads?

thx:beer:


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## PjS860ct (Dec 22, 2002)

no need for sealant on those...:beer:


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

PjS860ct said:


> no need for sealant on those...:beer:


sick thanks!


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## CorradoFuhrer (Mar 21, 2002)

you dont need teflon for AN they are compression fitting, right?


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

well i hooked up most of the fuel lines, i just have to install my pump and run the last hose to my rail.

th return line, can I just pop the hose onto the stock hard return line? you can kind of see it in the picture, its a pretty short peice I had cut. 

I forgot to cut the hose before i put on the fitting, so one of the hoses is pretty long lol i think i can hide that tho

:beer:










I tucked this hose underneath the fuel rail, looks clean


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

another question about for the wastegate this time. anyone know the stock spring rate in a 38 mm tial? 

Is it true that I can up the boost past the springs rate as long as I have a boost controller? I am wondering because im not sure as to if I should be getting a *stiffer spring or not*. i dont want to blow my hg


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## CorradoFuhrer (Mar 21, 2002)

kushdubber said:


> another question about for the wastegate this time. anyone know the stock spring rate in a 38 mm tial?
> 
> Is it true that I can up the boost past the springs rate as long as I have a boost controller? I am wondering because im not sure as to if I should be getting a *stiffer spring or not*. i dont want to blow my hg


har har real funny... Kinetic stage 1 is 6 lbs. you can always take it out and check, I think they are color coded for boost levels. I don't think your going to pop your head gasket with what looks like a stage III kit. Your build looks like it your HG won't be a problem.


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## CorradoFuhrer (Mar 21, 2002)

wheres btown? bethlehem pa?


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## CorradoFuhrer (Mar 21, 2002)

and also others here had the same problem with their waste gate setup and melted pistons, i got lucky. well someone else was over boosting not sure if that was you, but they happened to not drop there boost gauge on the floor because of the stupid coiled nylon tube that didn't wanna straighten out. 

Head goes to the machine shop tomorrow and many many parts on there way soon. Green tops and a new tune before spring :beer::beer:


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

CorradoFuhrer said:


> har har real funny... Kinetic stage 1 is 6 lbs. you can always take it out and check, I think they are color coded for boost levels. I don't think your going to pop your head gasket with what looks like a stage III kit. Your build looks like it your HG won't be a problem.


Ya I guess I could take it out.. ima first timer, dont wanna miss anything lol 

btown is brampton, in ontario canada. beside toronto.


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## CorradoFuhrer (Mar 21, 2002)

kushdubber said:


> Ya I guess I could take it out.. ima first timer, dont wanna miss anything lol
> 
> btown is brampton, in ontario canada. beside toronto.


theres a write up on how to remove it if you google it, its under pressure so be careful.


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

CorradoFuhrer said:


> theres a write up on how to remove it if you google it, its under pressure so be careful.


ya no prob taking it out but if its only in there to regulate a minimal boost pressure than ill just leave it. 

i want to run like 10-12 psi. i can run that with a 6 psi spring if i turn up the boost with an mbc right?


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## WvS4 (Apr 22, 2011)

Lots of great info...I'm getting ready to do the same thing


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

WvS4 said:


> Lots of great info...I'm getting ready to do the same thing


:beer::beer:


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

to whoever uses a walbro 255 .. what kind of hp are you making? 
i am wondering if one inline should be enough for 350 

if i installed it in the engine bay would the stock intank be powerful enough to feed the walbro upfront?


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## PjS860ct (Dec 22, 2002)

A 255 walbro inline pump is good for 500... and its a pusher style pump so its best to install it closest to the tank/filter but it will work if its in the engine bay... efficiency might go down though...


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

PjS860ct said:


> A 255 walbro inline pump is good for 500... and its a pusher style pump so its best to install it closest to the tank/filter but it will work if its in the engine bay... efficiency might go down though...


so i might as well mount before the fuel filter then? that sounds like its the most reliable spot


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## PjS860ct (Dec 22, 2002)

you got it :thumbup:


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

.. im probably going to have more questions about how to install this thing (wiring and the relay part..) I have an installation guide from usrt i think, but its still cloudy for me.

anyways thanks for the tips!:beer:


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

here are a couple pics of my progress. i finished up my fuel lines, put together my intake.
waiting for my intercooler to show up, that will be the next task

:beer:


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

ok i want to put my dp on today and my wg is attached to it. I think im gonna do it anyways becuase ive read up and my wg spring should be fine the way it is.

please can someone with experience confirm I *do not need to change my wastegate spring if i am controlling boost with a manual bleeder type boost controller??!*


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## PjS860ct (Dec 22, 2002)

you would be fine, go ahead and install everything... even if your wastegate has a 14+psi spring it will be fine...


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## vergessen wir es (May 12, 2010)

Keep in mind that 15 psi is pushing obd1/36# depending on turbo. So if you run the mbc up much past that keep an eye on a/f.


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

im obd2 now with #42 software 

thanks paolo!


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

hey guys im workin on getting my ic pipes togther this week and was curious about something before i get my **** welded.

i was reading on some other thread where my boost ( or vac whatever the term is.. seems to change a lot) lines should go. I was always gonna run my line from the DV into my intake mani, but someone wwas saying the best response would be to have the line mounted right before the tb? something to do with maintaining the turbos speed or something..

should i just run the FPR, DV and Boost guage lines to the ports on my intake mani 

OR

Should i get some bungs welded onto my pipe right before the throttle body?

Thanks for any help guys:beer:


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## PjS860ct (Dec 22, 2002)

Wastegate = signal before the throttle body

Dv, boost gauge, fpr = intake manifold


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

PjS860ct said:


> Wastegate = signal before the throttle body
> 
> Dv, boost gauge, fpr = intake manifold


oh.. ok so im fine sorry for such a stupid question guess I misread some **** :screwy:


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

I Got some stuff on way home from work. I tried to test fit some things but I cant really make up my mind on how I want my ic pipes.

I think im gonna go with using 3 elbows instead of 4. The shop will weld an inch or so on a couple peices for better fitment. And im probably going to mount the DV beside my intake, kind of tucked beside the fender.










:beer:

-Bret


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

Got the one side done.. still waiting for my ic to finish the rest, i hope it will be in this week.

basically this was just 3 x 90 deg. elbows and 2 silicone elbows. I had my shop add about an inch if stainless to each peice so the claps would have more to grab.

the elbow near the pass. fender is 2.5in to3in. The in and out of my ic is 3". I was told I should try to match the TB size. 

I have decided to mount my dv on the tb side, it would looks way to crowded on the intake side. Is this ok to mount the dv this far from the turbo? As long as its on the ic setup it should be fine right?
Thanks

anyways heres a couple pics


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

eace:


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

i did some cutting yesterday, sorry for the crappy cell pics! 










it was a lot easier to do than i expected. fits pretty good i think


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

Hey guys, been a little while since I have posted anything. I havent done a whole lot over the last few weeks.. its been cold and the weather has been ****ty.

Yesterday I managed to roll it out of the garage for the first time in months, and got to do some work outside in the sun. It was 15 degrees here yesterday which was AWESOME!! so I washed it as well  










Clips hangin there for now


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

OK so my vrt is driving daily with no real issues i can see, got it on the road last week and am loving it!!!! I drove my pops 335 xi the other day and it is definitely not fun anymore 

I do have some questions for anyone who would like to chime in..

1) its so damn hot under my hood, any ideas for cooling besides heat wrap and or an a/w kit? I heard turning the heat on full inside the car will help cool the engine bay?

2) the motor has a slight hickup when i open the throttle a tiny bit.. usually more noticable when I open the throttle by hand.. hard to explain :banghead: anyone know what that could be? afr's?

3) and last, when I cold start it will idle surge for a bit and then settle down to 850 rpms. idles nice.. beside the surging. could that be the IAC? do obd2 vrs run an idle air control valve?.. IS IT BAD to ignore it?

Thanks guys


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## PjS860ct (Dec 22, 2002)

its gonna be hot no matter what... 

heat wrap, heat blanket and heat shield to control where the heat is...

the throttle body controls the idle for obd2, do another throttle body alignment through vagcom... (its ok to ignore it if it doesnt bother you...)


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## mk2golf14s (May 1, 2009)

there is a sliding lock on the right side, i believe, of the fuse box. u cannot get any of the plugs out without unlocking it. the slider kindve resembles the slider on the ecu connector. it pulls out about a half inch or so, then u just unlock each connector and pull out.


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## mk2golf14s (May 1, 2009)

well i feel like a dumb***. didn't realize there was 4 pages:screwy:


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## vergessen wir es (May 12, 2010)

I took off the gasket between the raintray and the hood. I think it let's allot of heat out.


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## V-dubbulyuh (Nov 13, 2005)

:thumbup: to getting this thing running.


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

Thanks! Definitely pleasantly surprised at the outcome.

I will have to try that tb adjustment becaust its kind of annoying..

As for the heat, ill check that gasket thing out and anything else that will give me some better flow under the hood.

I have another inquiry about how to set-up the DV... I know I tried covering it before but i have had mixed answers. I spoke with C2 and they told me the correct way is charge pipe on the side and bottom port routes to intake.. but

My shop set it up with the bottom port on the charge pipe (which is what a lot of people say is correct) and it seems that when i have been building boost in the past day or so that it leaks out of the piston before i let my foot off the throttle. it make a whistling sound. 

Maybe the spring is getting worn in and is too soft which allows air to open up the piston gradually? 

What do you guys recomend?


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

*Headspacer question*

Guys,

Think i blew my HG the other day (9:1 ss spacer installed). I plan on replacing the gasket myself. I was talking to my mechanic, who is a certified dealer for Lugtronics (good guy) and he told me for my numbers (under 500hp) that i shouldnt need the spacer, and it will throw off my timing a bit.

I have read a lot of different threads and people say 15-20 psi should run a 9:1 spacer. I currently run 15lbs on c2 software with the #42 injectors.

Do I really need this spacer? Just wondering if I could get a better seal without it?

And if I do use the spacer, should I be using the mk4 3 layer metal crush gasket? Which would have to be split.

Note: I couldnt find copper gasket sealant when I first installed the spacer, used some ****ty red stuff.

Thanks:beer:


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## V-dubbulyuh (Nov 13, 2005)

kushdubber said:


> Guys,
> 
> I have read a lot of different threads and people say 15-20 psi should run a 9:1 spacer. I currently run 15lbs on c2 software with the #42 injectors.
> 
> ...


I strongly suggest *retaining *that 9:1 spacer at your boost level. You can get an excellent seal using the split Mk4 gasket assuming all surfaces are clean and true. In addition to sealing issues the copper sealant also aids in heat distribution (don't know if anyone has actually even proved this & how they did). Several years ago C2 had head spacer installation instructions on their site/included with their head spacer, don't know if they still do but they were adamant about using copper spray. I've had good results both with and without but now as a practice I always use it. Lastly, don't use red stuff.


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## kushdubber (Jun 8, 2010)

Thanks :thumbup::beer: definitely going to look for some copper stuff


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