# is my fuel accumulator bad?



## 1985gticis (Mar 11, 2010)

new plugs/wires/ fuel pumps/fuel filter car runs great every day on my way to school which is noon. I leave 6 hours later and it runs like **** spittin sputtering back to my house. let it sit for about an hour while i eat and go to leave and it spits/sputters almost like it is missing, but its just not getting enough fuel especially after stop lights, sometimes it runs perfect for about 30 seconds or so then starts acting up again. 

this is an intermittent problem but only after i drive it for the first time of the day. I feel that it is the fuel accumulator but it is an intermittent problem and will always start even when hot just is starving for more fuel, and likes to stall out if i don't feather the gas and clutch just right. Because of this i think it could also be the fuel pressure regulator, and when it is running like crap at idle i took off the vacuum hose to the fpr there is no change in idle or symptoms still runs like crap. 
any ideas would be greatly appreciated thanks


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## WaterWheels (Aug 14, 2005)

Ideas? Sounds a bit involved at this point for an "Internet Fix", but some things do stand out. One is that if you have what looks like a vacuum line on the fuel pressure regulator then it must be CIS-e. The "vacuum" line is not a vacuum line and only vents to the filter box for atmospheric pressure. So removing it should cause no change.
The next thing is that you should have an O2 sensor on that engine, has it been tested? There is also an engine temperature sender on the coolant system, has that been tested? Also, with CIS-e a simple cable set-up can be made or purchased to read the ECU signal being sent to the diferential pressure regulator. This signal controls the fuel mixture and should be one for the first tests when a CIS-e system acts-up. Then of course there is the ignition system which is often overlooked in favor of the injection system for some reason.


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## Glegor (Mar 31, 2008)

*Re: (WaterWheels)*

VWs have the pickiest ignition systems.


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## blubullet509 (Oct 15, 2007)

*Re: (Glegor)*

if its cis l definitely check you wur.


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## WackyWabbitRacer (Apr 24, 2001)

*Re: is my fuel accumulator bad? (1985gticis)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1985gticis* »_ I feel that it is the fuel accumulator 

If the fuel accumulator is not leaking, then it is OK. The accumulator only leaks gas when the internal rubber diaphragm becomes ruptured.
Cheers, WWR.


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## 1985gticis (Mar 11, 2010)

*Re: (blubullet509)*

how do i check the wur? and also how do I check the coolent temp sensor its 35 bucks at autozone and am short on cash. Thanks for the help guys










_Modified by 1985gticis at 11:47 AM 3-31-2010_


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## WaterWheels (Aug 14, 2005)

Although whether it"s working or not really does not matter, they can still be bad without showing any leaks. Clogged up inside, spring gone weak, yeah I know there're slim failures at best, or the diaphram ruptured would all cause it to not work or work poorly and may not leak out fuel. So it can be bad and not show any leaking, but as I said, that's not an issue here.
Don't worry about checking a WUR as unless the system has been changed you have CIS-e which has no WUR. It is possible you have a Canadian model which could have CIS basic or Lambda. If that is the case then in the future let folks know just what you have to avoid confussion. Multi-meter is what most people use to test the temperature sensors, that and a manual to bounce the reading from the sensor against the graph in the manual. $35!!!


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