# Need to bleed brakes



## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

The car is at almost 100k and I doubt the brake fluid has ever been changed.
Already bought the VW brake fluid and power bleeder.
According to the instructions on power bleeder, these are the steps (in summary)
-Remove old fluid from reservoir (turkey baster ftw!







)
-Fill the reservoir with new fluid up to the MAX line
-Put 1 quart of new brake fluid into the bleeder.
-Pump up to 10-15psi
-Start off from the furthest wheel and work towards reservoir
My only concern is the air that will be trapped once the reservoir is filled to MAX and powerbleeder cap is on. Isn't this going to push the air into the brake lines? 
Am I overlooking/forgetting something?
Thanks in advance. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## greyhare (Dec 24, 2003)

*Re: Need to bleed brakes (MightyDSM)*

As fluid drains from the bleeder more fluid will be pushed from the power bleeder tank to the MC reservoir.
Do not let the power bleeder go empty or your concerns could happen.


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## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

*Re: Need to bleed brakes (greyhare)*


_Quote, originally posted by *greyhare* »_As fluid drains from the bleeder more fluid will be pushed from the power bleeder tank to the MC reservoir.
Do not let the power bleeder go empty or your concerns could happen.

That makes sense - so as long as there's fluid in reservoir and bleeder it should be good.
You think half of powerbleeder will be enough to do all 4 corners?
Thanks. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## waabaah (Jun 24, 2006)

if all you want to do is flush the old brake fluid out then you really dont even need a powerbleeder.
-remove old fluid from master
-fill master with new fluid
-crack open all four bleeder screws
-put some coffee cans or cups to catch the fluid.
-go smoke a cig
-keep topping off master every now and then.
-tighten all bleeders.
since you dont have air in the system i would advise to do this simple route. you only need to do furthest from the master power bleeding ONLY if you introduced air into the braking system. and since you never did introduce air you can bleed all four corners at once


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## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

*Re: (waabaah)*


_Quote, originally posted by *waabaah* »_if all you want to do is flush the old brake fluid out then you really dont even need a powerbleeder.
-remove old fluid from master
-fill master with new fluid
-crack open all four bleeder screws
-put some coffee cans or cups to catch the fluid.
-go smoke a cig
-keep topping off master every now and then.
-tighten all bleeders.
since you dont have air in the system i would advise to do this simple route. you only need to do furthest from the master power bleeding ONLY if you introduced air into the braking system. and since you never did introduce air you can bleed all four corners at once

No air in the system at all...just want to flush out the old brake fluid from lines
That's an interesting procedure. So the fluid will just start coming out by itself? No need to press the brake pedal?


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

*Re: (MightyDSM)*

I"ve always "sucked" fluid outa each wheel cylinder/caliper with a big syringe and hose..then hit each wheel with a few ol school "pump bleeds"....funny....MKV Bentley reccomends exactly my method...power or vaccum bleed till you get clean fluid..then 5 pump bleeds/wheel...guess my theory that pump bleeds move "crud" around and out of the wheel calipers is true!


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## waabaah (Jun 24, 2006)

*Re: (spitpilot)*

yes..no need to pump the pedal.
just crack open the bleeder and check often of master cylinder level.
of course vaccuumm and pressure bleeding is quicker but cracking open the bleeder is easier.
after you crack open the bleeder the brake fluid will drip out of the rears and the fronts should have a drip/stream effect.
just watch the color of the fluid to see if you reached the clean fluid yet.


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## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

*Re: (waabaah)*


_Quote, originally posted by *waabaah* »_yes..no need to pump the pedal.
just crack open the bleeder and check often of master cylinder level.
of course vaccuumm and pressure bleeding is quicker but cracking open the bleeder is easier.
after you crack open the bleeder the brake fluid will drip out of the rears and the fronts should have a drip/stream effect.
just watch the color of the fluid to see if you reached the clean fluid yet.

Thanks.
Might do it like this or with bleeder since I already got it.
Should be ok to do all 4 at same time with power bleeder as long as there's fluid in reservoir and bleeder?


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## waabaah (Jun 24, 2006)

*Re: (MightyDSM)*

yes and no.
with no power bleeder you can do all four at once. the fluid wont come out that fast and it basically drips. this is fine since there really isnt any large volume inside a brake line and it really should only take about 50 or drips to start seeing the new brake fluid.
with the power bleeder i would recommend doing one at a time...you will go through alot of fluid if you do all four at once. more force being applied through the lines and very possible you may run out of fluid in the bleeder resulting in you pushing in air into the system.


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## TravisaKaBiggie (Apr 9, 2009)

Would it be bad to just replace the fluid inside the reservoir and call it a day?


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## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

*Re: (TravisaKaBiggie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *waabaah* »_yes and no.
with no power bleeder you can do all four at once. the fluid wont come out that fast and it basically drips. this is fine since there really isnt any large volume inside a brake line and it really should only take about 50 or drips to start seeing the new brake fluid.
with the power bleeder i would recommend doing one at a time...you will go through alot of fluid if you do all four at once. more force being applied through the lines and very possible you may run out of fluid in the bleeder resulting in you pushing in air into the system.

Thanks once again.









_Quote, originally posted by *TravisaKaBiggie* »_Would it be bad to just replace the fluid inside the reservoir and call it a day?

That would still leave some old fluid with moisture and whatever else is in the brake lines.


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