# 2003 TT programming of the remote



## scackley (Aug 19, 2010)

I just bought a new key and remote for my TT and followed the owners manual stating to put the key in the door to program it.

This didn't work, and I have had a couple people say something about having to have the original key in the ignition while programming the replacement.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.


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## scackley (Aug 19, 2010)

*2003 Audi TT remote program*

Just wanted to let you know that I found it.....

1. Take the valet key or one that is already programmed, put it into the ignition and turn the key to the "on" position, just prior to starting the car. 

2. Roll down the driver's side window (not required, but a good idea in case there's a problem). 

3. Exit the car and close the door. 

4. With a second key, physically lock the doors (don't use a remote). 

5. Take the first remote to be programmed, press one of the buttons and the lights will flash once. Wait 10 seconds and press the unlock button. The doors should unlock. That first transmitter is now programmed. 

6. Lock the door again (physically) with the key, (not the remote). 

7. Press one of the buttons twice, the lights will flash twice. Wait 10 seconds and press the unlock button. The doors should unlock. The second transmitter is now programmed. 

For a third transmitter press the button 3 times and for a fourth press 4 times.

I just did this and it worked...... For what ever reason; I think that the owners manual has it listed the way they do because of the remote already being programmed and the instructions are for when you replace the battery in the remote ONLY.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

So how do you program the remote if you don't have a second key? The batteries in my 2002 remote died, I replaced them, it's sending an RF signal based on the tester on the counter at the auto parts store, but the car doesn't respond. I tried programming it with VAG COM, but in Central Lock module, under address 21, I input 1 for a value of number of keys to program, but it won't let me test when I input this value, and defaults back to 0. Any help is appreciated as using a key to unlock the doors is so 1990's.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Bump for key (re)programming.


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## quattrosNrabbits (Jun 23, 2007)

*Well I guess you need to purchase and cut a second key...*

Here's a solution for ~$30 which should allow you to program your primary key.
http://forums.quattroworld.com/tt/msgs/207583.phtml

If your car has the chip in the keys, this should still work, but the key won't start your car. If you want a second key that will start your car you'll have to fork out substantially more for a new key with a chip, and then pay the dealer to code the chip to your car/ecu/cluster.


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

straight from the ross tech site http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/vw-remote-matching.html


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

I guess I wasn't clear enough in my original post. I don't have a second key. I don't want to buy a second key. Any ideas why I can't use the initial method off of Ross Tech's site with only one key and VAG COM?


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## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

20v master said:


> I tried programming it with VAG COM, but in Central Lock module, under address 21, I input 1 for a value of number of keys to program, but it won't let me test when I input this value, and defaults back to 0. Any help is appreciated as using a key to unlock the doors is so 1990's.


The 8N TT central locking has quirks that need some special procedures Ross-Tech has documented here:
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Audi_TT_(8N)_Central_Locking#Remote_Control_Matching

Are you following those guidelines, or the generic VW remote procedures? VCDS also has some bugs that mean you have to type in numbers in certain places, rather than using the up/down choices to increase or decrease the number.

If the TT procedures don't work, you may want to post this over in the VCDS forum, but be ready to post an AutoScan before anybody will answer.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Charlie_M said:


> The 8N TT central locking has quirks that need some special procedures Ross-Tech has documented here:
> http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Audi_TT_(8N)_Central_Locking#Remote_Control_Matching
> 
> Are you following those guidelines, or the generic VW remote procedures? VCDS also has some bugs that mean you have to type in numbers in certain places, rather than using the up/down choices to increase or decrease the number.
> ...


I was following the generic procedure, but in block 21 I was manually entering the position instead of up/down to the correct position, yet it still wouldn't allow me to test. I guess I don't understand why this is even needed since all I did was replace the batteries in the remote. The VW keys don't need this done upon changing the batteries. Either way, I'll try the 8N chassis specific steps in the link you provided. Worst case, my buddy is a locksmith and cut a dummy key to put in the ignition to program the remote I have. Interesting that his generic scan tool, that is meant to do this, wouldn't retrieve the PIN from the ignition cluster the first time we tried it. Typical overengineered German electronics.


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## Subverter (Apr 17, 2012)

20v master
If it was previously programmed and was working b4 the battery died.... Put the key in the ignition and leave it on the on position w/o starting the car, leave it for about 20 mins or so and the key will re sync with the immobilizer. Its the same if you leave the the car for a few months with out starting it once in a while. This is what worked for me.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Subverter said:


> 20v master
> If it was previously programmed and was working b4 the battery died.... Put the key in the ignition and leave it on the on position w/o starting the car, leave it for about 20 mins or so and the key will re sync with the immobilizer. Its the same if you leave the the car for a few months with out starting it once in a while. This is what worked for me.


That would be the easiest solution at this point. :laugh: Will report back this evening with results.


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## EuroSpic_TT (Apr 24, 2012)

20v master said:


> That would be the easiest solution at this point. :laugh: Will report back this evening with results.


deff report back, because i have a key fob that the buttons dont work, and then i have a plain valet key that just opens everything, i really would like to figure out how to program it so i can use the buttons.


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

20v master said:


> That would be the easiest solution at this point. :laugh: Will report back this evening with results.


Im wating for the report! opcorn:opcorn:


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## EuroSpic_TT (Apr 24, 2012)

Mantvis said:


> Im wating for the report! opcorn:opcorn:


You and me both lol:thumbup:


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## Subverter (Apr 17, 2012)

EuroSpic_TT said:


> You and me both lol:thumbup:


Euro is that fob the original or is it a replacement? I take it it's for your '01' u bought not to long ago.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Subverter said:


> 20v master
> If it was previously programmed and was working b4 the battery died.... Put the key in the ignition and leave it on the on position w/o starting the car, leave it for about 20 mins or so and the key will re sync with the immobilizer. Its the same if you leave the the car for a few months with out starting it once in a while. This is what worked for me.


Well this definitely didn't work, not that I thought it would. :laugh: I didn't have time to play with the VAG COM last night, I'll try to find a few minutes to slip out to the garage tonight and try it again.


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## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

Subverter said:


> 20v master
> If it was previously programmed and was working b4 the battery died.... Put the key in the ignition and leave it on the on position w/o starting the car, leave it for about 20 mins or so and the key will re sync with the immobilizer. Its the same if you leave the the car for a few months with out starting it once in a while. This is what worked for me.


Those sound like the instructions I got when they sent back my rebuilt cluster ... I think that deals with the immobilizer, cluster and transponder chip in the key, not with the RF transmitter in the key fob and central locking.


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## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

EuroSpic_TT said:


> deff report back, because i have a key fob that the buttons dont work, and then i have a plain valet key that just opens everything, i really would like to figure out how to program it so i can use the buttons.


If you have two keys, you can use the method in post #2 in this thread. (Except may have to turn the ignition *off* in between programming each key fob, AFAIK). 20vMaster does not have two keys to use that method, so he needs to use VCDS.


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## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

20v master said:


> I guess I don't understand why this is even needed since all I did was replace the batteries in the remote. The VW keys don't need this done upon changing the batteries.


Think of it this way. The key and the central locking module have a *list* of about 16000 numbers (maybe 16000000, I can't remember). When the key fob works, the key fob and the module in the car are synchronized, and both know what the next number should be, and the module will open when that number is received. If the fob batteries are dead for too long, or you press the remote key fob too many times out of range of your car, they become *un*synchronized. All you are trying to do with VDCS is get them back on the same number. It's not a VW vs audi thing, AFAIK, they all work basically the same way.



> Either way, I'll try the 8N chassis specific steps in the link you provided. Worst case, my buddy is a locksmith and cut a dummy key to put in the ignition to program the remote I have. Interesting that his generic scan tool, that is meant to do this, wouldn't retrieve the PIN from the ignition cluster the first time we tried it. Typical overengineered German electronics.


That sounds like the PIN or SKC from the cluster that you use to fix immobilizer problems; the immobilizer is completely separate from the key fob stuff. 

May be a good idea to have your buddy cut a blank any way. If (when) you start to have problems with the microswitch in the drivers door, the TT will often lock doors *on it's own*, when you least expect it. If your keys are in there, then you're screwed unless you have a backup key. Even if it won't start the car (no chip), it will open the door.


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## EuroSpic_TT (Apr 24, 2012)

Subverter said:


> Euro is that fob the original or is it a replacement? I take it it's for your '01' u bought not to long ago.


not 100% sure if it the original or not its the one the dealer gave me when i purchased the car, and its an 02


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## EuroSpic_TT (Apr 24, 2012)

Charlie_M said:


> If you have two keys, you can use the method in post #2 in this thread. (Except may have to turn the ignition *off* in between programming each key fob, AFAIK). 20vMaster does not have two keys to use that method, so he needs to use VCDS.


i had tried this method once before with no success, ill try again to see what happens


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Charlie_M said:


> That sounds like the PIN or SKC from the cluster that you use to fix immobilizer problems; the immobilizer is completely separate from the key fob stuff.


Yes, the pin is stored in the cluster. He already tried his programming equipment and was unable to retrieve the pin needed to program the remote to the central locking module. He says he can get it to work eventually, and that VAG cars in general usually takes some futzing and tinkering with to make work. We were just pressed for time during the first attempt. Either way, the batteries were dead for all of 24 hours, and I'm sick of using the key to unlock and lock the car. :banghead: Hopefully VCDS will cooperate on the next attempt.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Charlie_M said:


> The 8N TT central locking has quirks that need some special procedures Ross-Tech has documented here:
> http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Audi_TT_(8N)_Central_Locking#Remote_Control_Matching


Ok, this procedure did indeed work. I had to clear out the memory for all previously programmed keys, which I wasn't doing before. In summary, follow Remote Clearing then Remote Matching in the Ross Tech 8N TT link, and your remote fob will work again. Thanks for the assistance. :thumbup::beer:


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