# Help - Code P1296 "Manufacturer Fuel/Air Metering" Issue



## thelaststrum13 (Jan 23, 2006)

Check engine light came on the other day when going somewhat fast on freeway...here are symptoms and what happened:
Code P1296 "Manufacturer Fuel/Air Metering"
2001 225 Roadster
84,000 miles
APR 93 chip
APR exhaust
Intake
Diverter Valve
1) Car has been doing higher idle upon starting up, then dying back down after a few minutes. I can hear the air being sucked in big time
2) When applying power at times...the car "bucks" or does not have a consistent power stream, but once in higher rpms it goes away
3) Car overheated a few times this summer when at stand still ... did not notice fans working, cooled down when driving, but car has not overheated since.
4) Did have the car go into "limp mode" a few times about a year ago, apparently from cylinder misfire ... the code read
- Recently did timing belt job (Did not replace thermostat)
- Replaced spark plugs
Help! Thanks!

_Modified by thelaststrum13 at 10:33 AM 7-14-2009_

_Modified by thelaststrum13 at 10:35 AM 7-14-2009_


_Modified by thelaststrum13 at 10:29 AM 8-14-2009_


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## thelaststrum13 (Jan 23, 2006)

*Re: Help - Code P1296 "Manufacturer Fuel/Air Metering" Issue (thelaststrum13)*

Bump.
MAF? Fuel Filter? Injectors? Anyone who has an idea, help is appreciated.


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## thelaststrum13 (Jan 23, 2006)

*Re: Help - Code P1296 "Manufacturer Fuel/Air Metering" Issue (thelaststrum13)*

bump


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## 00_Bora (Oct 15, 2005)

*Re: Help - Code P1296 "Manufacturer Fuel/Air Metering" Issue (thelaststrum13)*


_Quote, originally posted by *thelaststrum13* »_
1) Car has been doing higher idle upon starting up, then dying back down after a few minutes. I can hear the air being sucked in big time.
*This is normal for a startup after a long sit...like first thing in the morning.* *The air your hearing is the SAI. nothing to freak out about.
*
2) When applying power at times...the car "bucks" or does not have a consistent power stream, but once in higher rpms it goes away
*Im going to bet this is partly due to your BOV setup. Try either your stock DV setup to see if it changes and if that fixes it, upgrade to a worthy DV setup.*
3) Car overheated a few times this summer when at stand still ... did not notice fans working, cooled down when driving, but car has not overheated since.
*Happens to me all the time when im sitting in traffic. Coolant temp goes up one notch, mainly because of all the hot air just sitting around you. When I run the HVAC code though, im sitting nicely at 90 (even after the green top sensor) Have you switched to a green top sensor yet?*
4) Did have the car go into "limp mode" a few times about a year ago, apparently from cylinder misfire ... the code read
*new plugs/coils fix it? Im assuming its been fixed since it was a year ago*
- Recently did timing belt job (Did not replace thermostat) *<--I would replace it soon*
- Replaced spark plugs *<--Gapped correctly for your chip?*




_Modified by 00_Bora at 1:02 PM 7-16-2009_


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## thelaststrum13 (Jan 23, 2006)

*Re: Help - Code P1296 "Manufacturer Fuel/Air Metering" Issue (00_Bora)*

1) Car has been doing higher idle upon starting up, then dying back down after a few minutes. I can hear the air being sucked in big time.
This is normal for a startup after a long sit...like first thing in the morning. The air your hearing is the SAI. nothing to freak out about.
*I do not remember it doing this a lot before though, but it is probably fine.*
2) When applying power at times...the car "bucks" or does not have a consistent power stream, but once in higher rpms it goes away
Im going to bet this is partly due to your BOV setup. Try either your stock DV setup to see if it changes and if that fixes it, upgrade to a worthy DV setup.
*I have an APR Diverter valve that was put on 20,000 miles ago. *
3) Car overheated a few times this summer when at stand still ... did not notice fans working, cooled down when driving, but car has not overheated since.
Happens to me all the time when im sitting in traffic. Coolant temp goes up one notch, mainly because of all the hot air just sitting around you. When I run the HVAC code though, im sitting nicely at 90 (even after the green top sensor) Have you switched to a green top sensor yet?
*I have not switched to green top sensor yet, but the car would literally overheat to point of indicator light and sound came on, gauge needle to the max. Has not done it since though.*
4) Did have the car go into "limp mode" a few times about a year ago, apparently from cylinder misfire ... the code read
new plugs/coils fix it? Im assuming its been fixed since it was a year ago
*Has not happened since, I did not replace coil packs yet.*
- Recently did timing belt job (Did not replace thermostat) <--I would replace it soon
- Replaced spark plugs <--Gapped correctly for your chip? - *No, I have APR 93 chip...what should they be gapped to? I think I bought pre-gapped ones, but cant remember. * 


_Modified by thelaststrum13 at 5:12 PM 7-16-2009_


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## tywall3 (Jun 9, 2006)

bump for some more info, i just got the same issue with my mkiv. so far its been only about a week and the car bucks on the initial startup for a while and I can't get it to rev up. The rest of the day however, it goes fine. Hopefully someone(s) can provide us with some other solutions


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## thelaststrum13 (Jan 23, 2006)

*Re: (tywall3)*

Yes same exact issue.
I will be disconnecting my MAF hopefully tonight to see if that is the issue. Bump as well.


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## tywall3 (Jun 9, 2006)

I have a code for my o2 sensor being bad as well, maybe that has a connection to the other issue?


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## thelaststrum13 (Jan 23, 2006)

*Re: (tywall3)*

The bucking and misfires might be caused by our coil packs. It appears 2000-2002 they are some what faulty. Mine have not been changed to the best of my knowledge. Trying MAF tonight first, then moving onto changing out packs.


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## thelaststrum13 (Jan 23, 2006)

*Re: (thelaststrum13)*

I pulled off my MAF sensor yesterday, immediately my car drove much smoother. Leads me to believe that the MAF could be a cause. My traction light will not go off now when it is unplugged though.
I should replace coils anyways though.
Dumb question, but does anyone know the story on a 3" MAF? Is that stock or better to get for my 1.8t 225? Thanks


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## thelaststrum13 (Jan 23, 2006)

*Re: (thelaststrum13)*

Replaced MAF sensor and housing and cleaned K&N filter.
Need to replace coils to see if it helps, but car still has light on (probably should get a reset huh?)
Any updates from anyone else? Thnx


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