# Where to buy oil filters in bulk



## A3Tripod (Sep 28, 2005)

The OEM oil filter for the 2010 GTI runs $14 at my dealership. It's not the most I've spent on an oil filter, but it's up there. I like Napa gold filters as well as Mann filters (same manufacturer i think). I find they are high quality and provide great flow and filtration between oil change intervals. 

That said, the Mann part number is: W 719/45 
and the Napa Gold is: FIL 7561 

These filters also run around $14-15. 

I'd like to buy them by the case at a discount if I could, but my Napa store doesn't offer that option. Heck I'd take the OEM at a bulk rate too if I could find a retailer. 
Do any of you have an online resource for bulk sales of these kinds of things. Ebay is failing, as is Amazon and a variety of VW-specific online parts stores that I've perused. 


Thanks in advance for you help!


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## 1.8Tquattro (Aug 13, 2006)

OEM 10 pack $119 
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_VI--2.0T/Maintenance/Engine/Oil_Filter/ES252811/ 

MANN 10 Pack $110 
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_VI--2.0T/Maintenance/Engine/Oil_Filter/ES1899287/


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## A3Tripod (Sep 28, 2005)

Ohh, that's very nice, ty! 

I did find a few other options out there 

WIX 57561 
Purolator PL35895 
Beck/Arnley 0410534 

RockAuto has the WIX and Beck/Arnley for about $10.40 ea 

Moreover, I learned that the OEM filter (06J 115 403C) is made by MANN


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## skier45 (Jul 27, 2009)

*filters*

Germanfilters.com, good prices on filters and they have total a fuchs oil at good prices, free shipping if you buy in quantity.


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## A3Tripod (Sep 28, 2005)

WorldImpex advised they can sell MANN for $10.20ea if you buy them in bulk orders of 10 or more. Shipping is additional ($14 to my zip). 

I already looked at GermanFilters and the case of 4 filters @ $51.84ea breaks down to $12.96 ea. When I added the case to cart, shipping was not free, as the total did not exceed $55.00


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## AudiSportA4 (Mar 3, 2002)

It's kind of weird. Last oil change, I remover he filter and the nut stayed behind. It's on there tight. I didn't want to gauge it taking it off, because the filter screwed back on normally, and I re-used it. 

The funny thing it that the filter looked just like any old vw filter after the nut was off. I dunno what all the specs are for the new one, thread pitch, inlet dia and bypass pressure, but it was weird. 

I'll look up the specs at some point, but does anyone have experience with the nut coming off?


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

ask: 

[email protected] 
[email protected] 

for prices


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## skier45 (Jul 27, 2009)

*the nut*

Could it be the nut that hold the oil cooler in place? Unless its a bpy engine it could be.


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## A3Tripod (Sep 28, 2005)

AudiSportA4 said:


> It's kind of weird. Last oil change, I remover he filter and the nut stayed behind. It's on there tight. I didn't want to gauge it taking it off, because the filter screwed back on normally, and I re-used it.
> 
> The funny thing it that the filter looked just like any old vw filter after the nut was off. I dunno what all the specs are for the new one, thread pitch, inlet dia and bypass pressure, but it was weird.
> 
> I'll look up the specs at some point, but does anyone have experience with the nut coming off?


 
I just changed my oil tonight (Rotella T6 5w40) and replaced the filter (Napa FIL 7561) 2,800 miles on the odometer. There were some abrasives in the used oil, about the size of coarse salt (think margaritas) only the bits were completely flat, unlike salt  . 

I didn't have any issues with the OEM filter coming off, other than being on so darn tight. looking closely at the filter, I see how the threaded post would come off if the filter was on too tight. Additionally, it was a little tricky to get the new one threaded on..it just didn't want to start. I wonder if your filter is cross threaded? Normally my inclination would be to back it off with some vise grips... 

I recall your recommendation to reuse the filter, but I want to cut the OEM open and take a look, doing the same when I replace the NAPA filter. On the surface, they look exactly the same - i'm interested in the guts.


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## AudiSportA4 (Mar 3, 2002)

I'm interested in the flake content of the filter too. Some guys will spread out the media and wash it down with a spray solvent to collect all the particles. Got a microscope? An expensive test is a PQ Index where the abraded particles are analyzed and grouped into a report.


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## A3Tripod (Sep 28, 2005)

Sorry, I'm not familiar with the type of test to which you are referring? PQ? Particulate Quantity? Ok, its a stab in the dark. 

Where would one conduct such a test? My examinations will be much more rudimentary using my biological stereoscope in conjunction with the occasional 10x loop


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## AudiSportA4 (Mar 3, 2002)

Yes, that's it exactly. Since all the metals are from different engine parts, I supposed it can be determined where they came from, and with an electron microscope it can be determined exactly how they were abraded. It's not something I know a lot about, but the concentration and size of particles is cataloged into a report. 

Colour and magnetic attraction should provide some info.


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## AudiSportA4 (Mar 3, 2002)

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/854/oil-analysis-tests 

"Particle Quantification Index (PQ or PQI) 
In this test, each sample is passed over a sensor which measures the bulk magnetic content of the oil. Because iron is the major wear element in virtually all components, the PQI is really a measure of how much iron is present (ferrous density) in the sample, the amounts of other magnetic elements being negligible. The PQI does not mention size - the bigger the number, the more iron. What the PQI is communicating could be interpreted as a concept of mass per capacity or, in metric terms, something like grams iron per liter of oil. 

The PQI, unlike the ICP, does not have particle-size limitations. As such, it does not indicate the sizes of the particle. Remember the example of a ball bearing in a sample: a solid ball bearing and the same one ground to powder should give the same PQI. 

Used in conjunction with the ICP iron reading, the PQI is invaluable in estimating the distribution of wear particle sizes. Table 4 shows this relationship. High, medium and low are relative concepts and should be interpreted in the context of other samples in the component's history. 

Situation 2 has various possible origins. It can be typical of a component experiencing accelerated but not abnormal wear; that is, the component is working harder than normal. This is illustrated by comparing the wear readings of differentials of identical trucks in different operations, for example, short and long-haul operations. Differences in what can be considered normal wear for each situation can be up to two orders of magnitude. This situation is also typical of normal brake wear in immersed-brake systems (such as most front-end loaders). Dirt entry causing abnormal wear also generates this Fe-PQI relationship."


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## A3Tripod (Sep 28, 2005)

AudiSportA4 said:


> http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/854/oil-analysis-tests
> 
> "Particle Quantification Index (PQ or PQI)
> In this test, each sample is passed over a sensor which measures the bulk magnetic content of the oil. Because iron is the major wear element in virtually all components, the PQI is really a measure of how much iron is present (ferrous density) in the sample, the amounts of other magnetic elements being negligible. The PQI does not mention size - the bigger the number, the more iron. What the PQI is communicating could be interpreted as a concept of mass per capacity or, in metric terms, something like grams iron per liter of oil.
> ...


 
Very interesting information. I wonder if filter manufacturers use a PQ-esque metric for determining filter efficiency throughout it's life? 

I'm not gonna lie....won't be getting a PQ analysis any time soon. Just keep buying filters as cheaply as I cna find em


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## AudiSportA4 (Mar 3, 2002)

It's just something to be aware of since you are cutting open the filter. My prediction is that you'll find nothing except the metallics, no sludge or carbons, etc. Likely the filter isn't even discoloured. I feel this goes to the point of re-using filters, as is being discussed in another thread.


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## A3Tripod (Sep 28, 2005)

AudiSportA4 said:


> It's just something to be aware of since you are cutting open the filter. My prediction is that you'll find nothing except the metallics, no sludge or carbons, etc. Likely the filter isn't even discoloured. I feel this goes to the point of re-using filters, as is being discussed in another thread.


 Yup, I read your statement about filter life and change intervals. Certainly a different paradigm for guys who are so used to changing the filter every oil change. 

My interests lie more closely with material use, filter length/surface area, construction, etc. 
My guess is that the OEM filter and the MANN 719/45 are exactly the same. Second to which, I'm interested in what story the filter tells with regard to ****. 

I do want to point out that the VW fuel filter on my MKIV jetta was a "lifetime" fuel filter. I was troubleshooting some fuel related issues when I decided to change the fuel filter at 38k miles. The symptoms went away, so I chose to disassemble the filter to have a look. The Husdon looked cleaner than my lifetime fuel filter. 

I want to point out, that I almost always refueled from the same station near my home, and was quite careful to not refuel during fuel deliveries. 

I guess my point is: just because the recommended change interval hasn't been reached, it may in fact be ready or past due. I'll see if I can find my old pics I posted, for posterity  

edit: pics aren't hosted anymore - duh. Take my word for it - the fuel filter looked like muddy water.


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