# This ESP light is driving me nuts! HELP!!!



## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

Okay so Im sure I am not the only person to have encountered this problem before.

My ESP light comes on and stays on. It doesn't come on all the time though.

Here is a little background on where I'm at....

I noticed this problem and have tried taking some measures to fix it with no success. 

First I just sprayed down the haldex with some degreaser n water to clean out the area, which I thought helped but then two days later it came back.

Next I opened the rear connector, cleaned out both sides and adjusted to connectors. Also added some dielectric grease to the connections to make sure all was good clean fit. Went away for a couple days again just to get my hopes up, then came back:banghead:

Finally, I went out and bought the haldex service kit and changed out the filter and oil. The light went away again for almost 4 days and I thought this was done then... it came back again

I have had the car scanned by a friend who is a mechanic and it threw up the 01324(J492) fault code.

I understand that this relates to no communication with the Haldex control unit, but is that all?

I have tested the car launching when the light is not on and it pulls from all four wheels. Even flashes a couple times then goes off to show the esp is working.

It seems to really only come on after longer drives when the tranny has been well heated??? I think the heat has something to do with it because once it comes on I can turn off the car and restart and the light will come back on after rolling for a couple seconds???

I'm about take it to audi but I'd rather not pay $120/hr just to have them say I need a new control module when it might just be an electrical short or something(I'm really bad with electrical)

Is there anything else I can do to get this solved??? or could it be something else???

The car is a 2001 225q and has 100k+ so no warranty here...

Please help guys!!!


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## QUA-TT-RO (Sep 4, 2010)

*Mayb one of ur G200 sensor*

I know i hate the light too, When i plug my tt into the computer, it gave me the g200 sensor code, i dont know if this is ur problem, so look more into it, theres alot of links about this issue and how to. Google it, good luck oh yea btw the sensor is $190 

http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=70581


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## AudiMick (Sep 1, 2010)

Nothing to do with the haldex.

It's a sensor problem, either one of the acceleration sensors, or sometimes a MAF / air leak problem (hard to believe I know).

Something to do with the ESP torque calculation for the ECU reads from the the MAF input.

Google it


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

I say MAF as well.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

AudiMick said:


> Nothing to do with the haldex.
> 
> It's a sensor problem, either one of the acceleration sensors, or sometimes a MAF / air leak problem (hard to believe I know).
> 
> ...


Mine has been going on and off like yours op. I have narrowed it down to sensors and MAF. I just dont mind it as much as you


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## idwurks (Oct 25, 2003)

Could it be steering angle sensor? That's a common failure on the mk4.


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

Thanks guys!

So what does the 01324 (J492) No communication with the AWD system mean???

Also, does the light comming on disable the quattro??? Because that is something im not willing to live with....

If it is just some sensors that I can replace I would be quite happy. Though from the look the link they arent gonna be easy or cheap.

I'm thinking it is probably not the MAF because the previous owner has already switched out a new MAF from audi. And that was not too long ago.

Is there a better way to narrow down whats going on here...

Im thinking I should probably invest in a reader like the one on ECS(the ROSSTech ones are way too much)

Keep it coming guys!!! 

I wanna get this figured out once and for all, and I think we will all benefit from some good info...


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## Vdub 2.0 (Jan 8, 2008)

i have a similar problem my esp light come on along with my abs light and my break light flashes, but then when i turn off the car and started it its gone, only happens when i get on it sometimes and the tires slip a little


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

Also, my ABS light does not come on... only the ESP(Triangle with a circle around it) light.

I have all the sevice records from the previous owner so I will go over those tonight and see which sensors have already been replaced.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

VroomTT said:


> Im thinking I should probably invest in a reader like the one on ECS(the ROSSTech ones are way too much)


The Ross tech ones are way too much because they are way too useful. Do yourself a favor and find someone with VAGCOM or buy it. You can run a scan on the entire car and come back with results that will point you in the right direction. There are A LOT of sensors on this car and like you said they aren't cheap. One persons solution is going to be completely different than yours most likely.


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

Trust me I def would like to get the RossTech, but its just out of my price range right now.

(Anyone have a Vagcom in south florida their willing to lend for an afternoon???)

I am thinking of getting the one from ECS because its only $100 for the good one, plus I can take it around with me and not worry about needing a laptop.

Anyone have any experience with it???

I'm also just really confused about the problem. The light only comes on after the car has been running for a while... which is why I think it has something to do with the temps. Maybe once the driveline gets hot enough...

Also after the light had been on for a bit today, I gave it some extra gas from still and got some decent wheel hop. I'm guessing this means the rear drive is dissabled:banghead:


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## JohnLZ7W (Nov 23, 2003)

Did you clear the codes? And if so does the same one (error communicating with haldex controller) keep coming back? Most likely that you need a new controller.


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

No, I have not cleared the codes since doing everything...

Could it be that I just need to reset the codes

Also, If I dont clear the code will keep turnign on the fault light??? and cutting off the rear traction???


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

I would definitely try clearing the codes with VAG-COM before you buy anything. Worst case scenario, your light will come right back on..


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## Trackstar616898 (Oct 31, 2010)

I would check your haldex controller may have a bad connection or be completely fried. \


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## 1idman (Dec 10, 2010)

*ESP Light*

I remember reading something awhile back that said after the ESP codes were cleared the lateral and longitudinal sensors should be calibrated with a VAG-Com even saw specs., not sure if anyone else saw the same


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## blackfnttruck (Jul 4, 2004)

Had a similar problem awhile ago. ESP would come on after driving for awhile. Re-starting the vehicle would make the ESP go off, but then would come back on after running awhile. Turned out I had some oil from the K&N filter, very thin film on the MAF. Cleaned the MAF and problem has never come back. Never did check any codes.


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

Had the car VagCom'd(cost $50! Def shouldve just bought the cheap V-scanner at that rate:banghead

Got it done at USP motorsports in Coral Springs FL. Had the guy check everything and clear all the codes... and then it came right back

The only code that appeared was:
01324 - Control Module for All Wheel Drive (J492)
49-00 - No Communications

Amy I looking at a fried Control Module????? And if so, why would it work half the time and then just shut off???

The guy at USP said I could do a diagnostic service which they would do some testing of all the wiring to find out what the problem is... it would be at $105...

He also said they would deduct 1/2 the cost of the VagCom from the service(so 25 off)

He said it may take 10min for them to figure it out or it may take longer...depends

It seems like this all just could be bad wiring but then again maybe not...

I just dont know if its worth paying all this diagnosis just to find out i need a new control module anyway...(That would suck!!!)

I would def like to try everything else in the meantime....

Any other recomendations????

Anyone have some advice or a link on cleaning the MAF.... im thinking that will be the next attempt...


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## JohnLZ7W (Nov 23, 2003)

You're in denial. If you have a fault that says the haldex controller is bad then cleaning your MAF will do nothing. Find someone who has upgraded their controller and has the stock one laying around or get an upgraded controller yourself. I think they still run about $900.


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## jmk1.8t wolfsburg (Jan 12, 2009)

Go buy a canof crc maf cleaner at like autozone, its like 8 bucks. Then take out your maf , look at it then usually I spray it out. Let it dry good cause if you spray it alot it'll get real cold andas it warms up it'll make condensation. And that's it usually good to do every other oil cange.


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## bauch1425 (Jun 29, 2006)

JohnLZ7W said:


> You're in denial. If you have a fault that says the haldex controller is bad then cleaning your MAF will do nothing. Find someone who has upgraded their controller and has the stock one laying around or get an upgraded controller yourself. I think they still run about $900.


What he said. Don't bother cleaning your MAF. You've cleared got a fault code for your Haldex/an ESP related component.

Although in my case I had a similar fault code (No communications - intermittent) but my longitudinal sensor was intermittently going out which the Haldex reads information from. In the case of a failed longitudinal sensor, the Haldex would shut off. I replaced my longitudinal sensor and it's been working perfectly.

Since you don't seem to have any sort of other fault codes, I'd say it is your Haldex controller.


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

Yea i hear ya... I guess it was just wishful thinking

Would it even be worth it to do the diagnostic?

I would hate to replace the controller for a bad cable or connection or something like that... the problem only kicks in after a certain amount of drive time, if its a short drive it wont even fault (so im thinking it has something to do with the temp. Though it also seems electrical due to the fault being no communication:screwy

But I would also hate to do it and still have to buy a controller...

Could it also be the haldex oil pump or something like that???? Id hate to fix one thing only to find the problem was something else...

Thanks again to all for the help:beer:


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## JohnLZ7W (Nov 23, 2003)

Could be the pump or wiring but a bad controller isn't that uncommon. Maybe you can find someone that will let you borrow a controller so you can swap it in to diagnose the problem?


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

How would i know its the pump? Any signs?

Also, as i understand there are two pumps, on electric the other mechanical?

Anyone willing to lend a brother a controller for a couple days????

In South Florida, willing to pay shipping back and forth...


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

I am also now thinking of pulling out my controller and giving it a good once over and cleaning... I hear any little thing or crud in it can make it malfunction

Anything to postpone a new controller for a lil while I have other expenses and mods i wouldve liked to do before that:banghead:

Any advice on removal and cleaning? A link to a diy would be tits:laugh:


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

Lets get this back up front again....

Anyone...

Well, just to add more to the diagnosis, I am still not sure if it is the controller at fault. The awd works all the time. Its usually only after long drives that the light comes on. 

Yesterday I drove about 30 miles on the turnpike and no light:screwy:

Today I pulled out and in 5 mins the light came one:screwy:

Does that sound more like a faulty controller or bad wiring????

Or maybe a bad oil pump or something???

How can I find a way to tell without a new controller....


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Dude, didnt you say that you hooked it up to Vag and got a code for the controler....? Maybe rather than guessing, you go that route and trouble shoot that system? just a thought.:facepalm:


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

I would love to dude:what:

I just dont know how. 

I'm considering pulling the controler and cleaning and checking wiring, but in all honesty im pretty novice at all this and have zero knowlege of electrical.

Any advice on how I should go about this would be greatly appreciated.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

I would try to make friends with a local TT owner, and swap controllers. See if your problem goes away or moves to their car. Or, upgrade your Haldex to an orange and see if that fixes the problem. I have a feeling that would fix your issue. It does seem that the controller is the source of your problem ( according to your Vag diagnostics )

Where in South Florida are you? the guy that did my brake bleed here in Delray beach seems like he really has his **** together. His prices are reasonable, and he works pretty fast. PM me if you want me to introduce you.


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

Awesome, thanks!

Yea I'm pretty much trying to avoid a new controller(cuz I dont have the cash mainly)

I'm pretty much in Boca so that's right near me:thumbup:


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Right on. If your controller is bad, replacement is gonna be the only fix to your problem. I really dont think your gonna have any luck cleaning it out and putting it back in, but i could be wrong. Might just want to start saving your $$$ for a blue. No point in buying a used controller if your not upgrading. (IMO)


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## M this 1! (May 17, 2000)

in the end of all this, it looks like you know what cleaning it out does. works for a couple days and then.....


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

Yea i know...:banghead:

But it just kills me that sometimes it doesn't fault...

Just yesterday I drove home from work and nothing... it was beautiful(tear):laugh:

So I keep comming back to the idea that it might be just an electrical short somewhere or a bad connection... otherwise wouldn't it just be lit all the time???

Anyone else have any experience with the controller going bad and it not always lighting up the ESP???

I really would like to avoid droping that much loot if at all avoidable... and seeing as i dont have the cash now, I have nothing but time to try other options...


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## bauch1425 (Jun 29, 2006)

Dude, sensors go out intermittently all the time. I have two ESP sensors that intermittently went out. Sometimes neither one would trigger on a LONG drive, other times right at startup. Replacing them both fixed the issue permanently. No wiring issue whatsoever. 

These cars are generally expensive as hell to maintain - if you're not ready to do work yourself and spend ample time and money repairing - this probably isn't the car for you, unfortunately.


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