# My New New Beetle 2.0l



## PoorMansDub (Nov 28, 2010)

Hey everyone! 

I am new to the New Beetle forum but not the Vortex. I also have a Mk4 Golf 1.8t. I grew up working on Mk1 Rabbits.

I just purchased a real fixer upper. It's a 2.0l with 209,000 miles (AEG). The PO just swapped out the clutch and decided VW was not for him. Clutch feels fine, however it needs a lot of work!

Here are some items that are on their way:

Timing Belt Kit
Motor Mounts/Dog Bone
Plugs/Wires/Coil/Fuel Filter/Cabin Filter/Air Filter
Control Arm Bushings
Rear/Front Shock Bushings
Coilovers
Rims(PO threw them in to sweeten the pot)
Axels
Intake manifold gaskets

The plan is to just make it a reliable daily since I'm constantly fixing something on my GTI. I've already replaced all the vac lines, fuel hoses, CTS, PCV hose, and cleaned MAF. 

My first question is:

The front end was damaged (cosmetic only, air bags were not deployed), however the airbag light is on. When searching around underneath I found a broken part of the wire harness. One thing that I could identify that came off of the harness there is the ambient air temp sensor. But on that same wire there is a weird looking switch thing. It has a metal strip and a contact point. it really seems like there should be another part to it, like maybe surrounding it. I will post a pic later, but can anyone tell me what it is?

Thanks! :beer:


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Post a pic and we can try to help, go from there.


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## PoorMansDub (Nov 28, 2010)




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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

That is odd looking; you might get a magnifying glass and see if you can read a vw part number, on the connector itself. If you get a part number; then you could purchase a new and replace it (that might help id what it is for as well). Otherwise, you might go to a junkyard and try to see if you can find one intact or look at another similar year new beetle, see what/where it is connected to. It can be hard; when you are working on something; that is missing things and you are not familiar with it, to being with!:banghead:


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## PoorMansDub (Nov 28, 2010)

Exactly! 

Good idea, I'll see if I can find a part number. I'm just lucky the ambient air temp was still barely hanging on, or I wouldn't know it went there too. :thumbup:

I did look at similar beetles yesterday at the local upull. I could only find a 98 and 99 but most everything was gutted. I only saw other parts of the wiring harness but nothing that looked the same. Of course this one is broken and has a ziptie on it so I very well could have overlooked it...

I also tried getting an EGR valve off a Jetta and I couldn't get that biotch to save my life. Do I really need to remove the heatshield? I don't recall that step on my ABA. :bs:

Thanks for the reply, parts are still flowing in so I have only been able to remove the bumper, headlights, and hood. I found a red one at the yard. It was cool because it still had the metal bar type prop up, but I noticed the welded anchor part wasn't the same as mine. I also had to transfer over the hydraulic ball mount thingy, luckily there was a machined slot for it to screw in even on the older one without it!


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

When you say "egr"; what are you referring to? 

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...mponent_information/specifications/page_2168/

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...on_system_components_removing_and_installing/


Here are some free online service manuals; if you haven't purchased a paper version yet: http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/

When it comes to swapping parts on typical Mark IV cars (Golf/Jetta) and the New Beetle, many parts are the same but some things are different, so keep that in mind. 

You might look on VW's website; to compare part #'s and that way, you can confirm the parts are the same: 

http://parts.vw.com/__.html


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## PoorMansDub (Nov 28, 2010)

Well I'm getting the incorrect flow code. I'm talking about the silver thing on the manifold not the electrical plastic thing the vacuum lines connect to. What I'm referring to is the piece that the smog pump plastic hose connects to. It also has a metal tube connected to the back.

Thanks For the file.


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Please post the trouble code number "#" and not the description, thanks.

So, you mean the comb/kombi valve? 

"air injection control valve": 

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...component_information/testing_and_inspection/


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## PoorMansDub (Nov 28, 2010)

Yes that.

Also I just woke up from a nap and for some reason recalled the alarm didn't arm when I hit the keyfob. I bet that switch (pic above) is the hood switch that tells if it's open or closed.


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## PoorMansDub (Nov 28, 2010)

Update:

Thanks for all the info Billy. I just received my Haynes manual in the mail. I find that I know enough about these VWs that a Haynes manual is usually sufficient, especially with the interwebs and all. 

I tested the kombi valve and it was shot, so got a good used one. :thumbup:

Also found that switch (above pic) to be the hood switch. I don't know where it mounts to though since it's currently hanging down to the ground.


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

The Haynes manuals can be useful but for factory level detail; you can check out the free ones I linked to, a Bentley/eBahn or VW's ErWin subscription and download all manuals for your car in .pdf format.

Here is the location; of the hood latch switch/alarm sensor: 

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa..._(for_alarm)/component_information/locations/

Maybe, you can find a used lock/plug/harness; intact at a junk yard?

If you look at the picture of the latch; maybe the wire and plug, are included in the assembly? 

http://parts.vw.com/p/Volkswagen_20...od-Latch-Latch-Lock/48111495/1C0823509AE.html

Hood Latch. Latch. Lock. .
Part Number: 1C0823509AE ; 1C0823509E


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## PoorMansDub (Nov 28, 2010)

Thanks Billy you are the Groggory of the New Beetle forum. :beer:

That's exactly what I needed to see. I will attempt to rewire the ambient air temp sensor back into the harness and use an epoxy to get the switch back onto the hood latch as my research leads me to believe it is all one part.


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## PoorMansDub (Nov 28, 2010)

*Update:*

Well so far I have put a decent amount of time and effort into the beetle. Thus far:

Timing belt kit (w metal water pump) 
*Helpful links*: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FrbFMuGFOJI & https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCoFOgIoEoY
Valve cover gasket
intake manifold gaskets
plugs/wires/coil
Flush coolant (g12)
Radiator fan switch
thermostat
oil/filter
Air filter
Kombi valve solenoid
Vacuum lines
Rubber fuel lines
Fuel filter
Smog pump fasteners
Re-wired ambient air temp sensor
Hood latch mechanism (w functioning switch)
All new motor mounts
Hood/fenders/bumper cover (from salvage yard)

There is still a lot to do. Rear axle bushings are giving me nightmares just thinking about doing them but they are toast. All new bushings and coilovers are on the way! :thumbup:


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## PoorMansDub (Nov 28, 2010)

*Some Pics*

Before:









After:









Engine:


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Wow, you have come a long way; pretty much everything in the list, are just so common on the Mark IV and New Beetles. With your different colored replacement panels; maybe you should come up with your own unique version of a "Harlequin", that they had years ago. You could use different colored vinyl wraps or "removable paint; that is so popular right now: 

https://www.google.com/webhp?source...=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=spray on removable paint

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=Harlequin+volkswagen

What are your plans for the suspension; what brand coilovers are you getting? A different set of wheels would make a huge change; I bet you could find some nice alloy vw wheels at the junk yards somewhere.


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## PoorMansDub (Nov 28, 2010)

Thanks billy! I am familiar with the Harlequin. I used to have a mk3 4 door golf. I am getting some wheels from the previous owner. I will put them on and see if I like them. I also have some old ones from my GTI before I replaced those. I definitely plan on doing some wrapping and plasti dipping since that type of stuff can be removed and changed. :thumbup:

In terms of suspension I have HD R32 control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, steering rack poly bushing, ball joints, tie rod ends, rear beam bushings, poly isolators, rear shock mounts, all new stretch bolts of course, front strut bushings and bearings, sway bar end links, and just some cheapo coilovers (JOM) for now. Also rotors, pads, hydraulic fluid flush will be in order, etc...

I'm hoping the hubs and bearings are good all around. The suspension is so clunky right now I couldn't hear a bad bearing anyway. I did rake on the wheels a bit and they didn't have any play so that's a good sign. I don't see how a car can go 209,000 miles and not have the bearings replaced at some point, but the fuel filter was definitely original! 

I think the biggest challenge on this bug will be getting the air bag light off. I've never had to deal with that before. :facepalm:


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Do you have a VW specific scan tool? You will need that; to see what the trouble code is and clear the light, once you repair the problem. The most common issue with the airbag light; is the wiring/plugs under the seat or the switches inside the receiver portion of the belt buckle. That is pretty amazing; the fuel filter was original! :facepalm:


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Do you have a VW specific scan tool? You will need that; to see what the trouble code is and clear the light, once you repair the problem. You might check out the cheap VAG 401 on amazon.com or VCDS from Ross Tech. The most common issue with the airbag light; is the wiring/plugs under the seat or the switches inside the receiver portion of the belt buckle. If it is the belt buckle; you can just replace it. That is pretty amazing; the fuel filter was original! :facepalm:


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## PoorMansDub (Nov 28, 2010)

Ok I will look into that. I don't have VAGCOM just a generic reader. Would VCDS Lite work in my case or will I need the full blown version? 

If It's inside the belt buckle do I need to replace the whole receiver or just a part inside it? I did read about the wire issue but all the wires are in tact. I'm assuming that it's going to be a sensor inside the frame on the front, because that's what my hunch is telling me.


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

As far as I know; the belt buckle receiver is not make to be taken apart and you will break the plastics if you do. New ones are about $70-$100 from the VW dealer. On ebay; there are some vendors, who claim they can repair them for $50 but I have never used them. 

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk...+belt+buckle+reciever+repair+service&_sacat=0

Here are the differences between the VCDS Lite and the full versions, capabilities. 

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/vag-functions.html

If you do not want to spend the dough for the full version; i would check out the hand held VAG 401 on amazon.com. It does many of the same things but at around $50. However, if you do go the full version of VCDS; you won't regret it, I have had it since 2007 and it is excellent, my car would not be on the road without it! eace:


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## PoorMansDub (Nov 28, 2010)

You know billy I just looked at the eBay link you sent me about seat belt repair service. If the pretensioner isn't working can that cause an airbag light? My passenger side is locked up. I have a good working one from the junkyard, I just haven't gotten around to putting it in yet...


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

I don't know about the pretensioner aspect and how it is hooked up to the ABS system. The most common failure; is the belt buckle receiver or harness wires, under the seat. I would scan the car with a VW scan tool and it will tell you, where the problem is. 

I emailed the company; that offers the repair of belt buckle systems and this is what they said: 


_message from: expertsseatbelts 

Our repairs are mostly for the mechanical problems so repairing the retracting mechanism is easy .. Even though we do repair seat belt infiltrators and connecting plugs, based on your message, we would recommend you to purchase a new belt .. but if you don't want to spend that much, please send your item to us and let us look and see if your receiver is repairable ... 

Thank you for your business
_

So, @ $50; their repair service is cheaper than new from the dealer but I don't know, how much a junk yard would charge. For the receiver portion; it might be best to get new. The receiver portion; is not make to come apart, so if you do the plastics break and the retaining clips get damaged.


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## PoorMansDub (Nov 28, 2010)

Ok I am all over this. Today as I was inside the beetle replacing my antenna mast, I noticed under the driver seat that there had been a rewire to the airbag wires coming out of the receiver. I went ahead and did a better job and it it all straightened up. Light is still on. However, I noticed on the passenger side that the receiver doesn't have any wires coming out at all. Is that normal?


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Well, I don't know; again, a VW scan tool will tell you what the trouble code is and that can pinpoint, the problem in the airbag/srs system. Any part of the SRS system; that isn't working correctly, will cause the airbag light to come on. I would invest in a VAG 401 on amazon.com or Ross Tech VCDS; you won't regret it, they pay for themselves, many times the first time you use it.


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## PoorMansDub (Nov 28, 2010)

Ha I just realized you live in NM as well. I'm in Albuquerque!


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Yup, not too far away!


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## PoorMansDub (Nov 28, 2010)

*Update:*

I did some more work on the beetle. I finally got some new headlights in. Also got an antenna and mast in. Unfortunately the driver side frame rail is a little wonky so I had to do some reworking and finangling to get the housing carrier and fender ring to line up decently enough. I'm not 100% satisfied with that side as the light is not quite at the right angle and the top gasket is inside the fender instead of out. When I get ready to plasti dip it I will make some custom brackets and hopefully get it squared away. It'll do for now 

Lights:


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## PoorMansDub (Nov 28, 2010)

I finally had the airbag codes read and boy are there a lot! It's clear the airbags deployed. It has the ignitor, control module, and pretensioner codes. Luckily there is a service for the control module that resets even the hard codes. I already have a good pretensioner laying around. I also found the passenger side and driver side air bags for relatively cheap. Looks like about 125 bux ought to turn that light off!

Now only one CEL code to remove and that is p0422. :thumbdown:


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

So, do you have to send the airbag control module out; to a service center, to reset it? How much does that cost? Was this a salvage title car?


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## Blackelk (Dec 21, 2014)

I have the same problem with the headlights. The original owner hit a wall at low speeds and bent the headlight bracket. I still haven't got both lined up. Starting to think about buying a turbo s beetle and swapping everything over, so I get a clean body and 6 speed. Looks like you took those pictures right behind the MVD. I use to live right there.


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

As a Turbo S owner; I would say, they are the "best of breed" new beetle, they are selling really cheap now. :laugh: I don't think; I would own any other type New Beetle.


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## PoorMansDub (Nov 28, 2010)

No, clean title car. Yes, the service costs 40 dollars. :thumbup:

Yes that is right behind the MVD. 

I think I can make a custom bracket to get that headlight lined up. I kinda like beat up cars and especially when my goal is to swap a VR6 in there eventually! Here is my GTI though, this is my "clean" car...


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## Blackelk (Dec 21, 2014)

Is it a 98 or 99 beetle. I heard that the vr6 from the 98-99 gti swaps right into the 98-99 beetle.


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## PoorMansDub (Nov 28, 2010)

It's a 2000. The only thing I'm having trouble finding information on is how to swap over the wire harness. And I'd like to keep the beetle insterment cluster.


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## Blackelk (Dec 21, 2014)

Yeah, I heard the 98-99 you can just swap the wiring harness over and it will work with the stock cluster. The 2000 up will need to have a cluster swapped or stand alone. At least that's what I've read.


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## PoorMansDub (Nov 28, 2010)

*Update:*

So I have a sick family member, the beetle project is going a lot slower than I would like, but family comes first for sure. 

I was able to pretty much rebuild the front end suspension. I replaced:

Ball Joints
Tie Rod Ends
Sway Bar Links/Bushings
Upper Strut Mounts/Stops/Bearings
Coilovers
Control Arm Bushings (R32 HD)

I also installed new exhaust manifold gaskets and hardware on both sides.

I finally broke down and bought a 12 ton shop press from Horrible Freight. It's awesome! Finally I can do my own pressing. I also bought the electric impact gun from HF and it also worked great! I had a seized up crusty ass strut mount bolt that I could not break loose and the gun spun it off no problem. It also allowed me to get the old strut assemblies apart in a breeze. I need to raise the coils up, once I lowered it I couldn't get the low boy aluminum jack out! 

I'm going to tackle the rear beam this weekend, hopefully. Once I do I'll post up some pics! :beer:


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

For most of the suspension parts; did you go with oem stock parts (aside from stock plus/R32 bushings) and what coil overs did you get?


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## PoorMansDub (Nov 28, 2010)

I went with meyle everything. I have always had real good luck with them. The coilovers are some JOM brand from ECS. They are nothing special. 

I was finally able to drive it today after raising the coils a bit. It's good, but I can tell my power steering pump is on its way out. The rear is clunking, I'm anxious to tackle that next, but probably won't be for another week or so until I'll have the time. Still rolling on the stock steelies too.


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

I heard Meyle ha gone offshore on their parts; did you happen to catch where the parts were made? Meyle, can be confusing; because they put "Meyle Germany" on their packaging but that does not mean, where the parts were made. 

For the rear trailing arm bushings; are you considering the Seat CupranR heavier duty versions? 

Bushing, rear axle beam pivot. Febi brand. Heavy duty bushing from European spec Seat Cupra R model.

***This is an upgraded part from the European SEAT Cupra R model. They are much firmer than the stock bushings and offer improved steering response and handling.*** Located at pivot point of rear axle beam. Two required per car.

Part Number References: 6LL501541


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## PoorMansDub (Nov 28, 2010)

Yes it's amazing that almost everything is made in China now! But Meyle is mostly made in Mexico. I did buy an FTE master clutch cylinder that was made in Germany a couple months back. 

If I had the turbo Beetle I would for sure be doing more upgraded suspension parts. My GTI has poly everything with Eibach/Koni, blah blah blah. With this little 2.slow I'm just doing the bare minimum.


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## PoorMansDub (Nov 28, 2010)

Well I fubared something up. I attempted to fix a small exhaust leak and now it's just super loud :banghead: I replaced the studs/nuts and gaskets. I cleaned up the surfaces and tightened everything down. At first I thought maybe I didn't tighten the manifold down enough so I re tightened everything. Still sounds the same. The connection at the flex pipe is solid as well. I don't know what I did, but I should have known that me and exhaust manifolds have never mixed. I can't remember the last time I did one and it didn't leak. I tighten everything down per the manual. 

On the plus side, it kinda sounds more like an original beetle now


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

bummer, maybe get it on a lift; see where the leak is? A smoke test could help too; lots of videos, on making your own.  If you need to replace some stock exhaust parts; Bosal, seems to have some decent quality exhast parts and prices: http://www.qcsonline.net/bosalb2b/products/


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## PoorMansDub (Nov 28, 2010)

Ya I have done the seafoam smoke test on my 1.8t, so I'm familiar with that process and will do that. Unfortunately, unless it was the flex pipe itself and I simply made it worse when I removed the manifold, I don't know what I could have done differently in the process to try and remedy the situation. It definitely needs to be seafoamed anyway, so that's next on the docket. Once I get this straightened out then I will attempt the rear axle.


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## PoorMansDub (Nov 28, 2010)

*Update:*

I still haven't been able to do much to the beetle, but I'm getting back on track. I was able to repair the window regulator for 25 bux thanks to a fellow vortexer. After tearing the door apart I found the regulator to be fine, it was the plastic gear for the window crank that was stripped. I just replaced that plastic gear and all is well. Window works great just in time for summer!

I still have the annoying exhaust leak, but at this point it's no big deal considering how beat this car is anyway. 

I got some tires 215/45/17 for the rims. I have been dragging my ass on removing the rear axle and tackling that. So the beetle has hella rake. The front is tucking tire and the back is stock on steelies. :laugh:


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## PoorMansDub (Nov 28, 2010)

*Update:*

Hey guys! I finally got around to doing some stuff to the beetle. 

I removed the rear axle. It wasn't as difficult as I imagined. I watched this video here a few times to get me prepped. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bR9KctR6dBk
The rubber part was so damaged it just popped out with a swift hit by a hammer. I was able to hacksaw through the metal part and hammer/chisel it out. I used a bushing tool I bought off eBay for 50 dollars to press the new ones in. 

I installed the coil overs, rims, and bled the brakes. Luckily I still had my old GTI lines left over from switching them out to SS. The beetles were beat!! Just swapped them over no problem. Ebrakes are good to go now with new lines and a handle I got from the junk yard since the button on my old one was broken. 

The only problem I'm having now is that it's so low my front inner wheels rub against the struts. I just ordered some 5mm spacers and hopefully that will fix the issue.


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Sounds like things are coming along!  Did you figure out the exhaust leak?


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## Blackelk (Dec 21, 2014)

I've been pushing off doing my rear bushings. I've had the bushing setting in the garage for over a month now.


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## PoorMansDub (Nov 28, 2010)

No it still sounds like an old beetle! I will tackle that next. I'm pretty sure it's the flex pipe so I will order a new pipe with cat and install it. Unfortunately the PO welded the mid to rear pipe connection, so I will have to cut it off and buy a slip sleeve. 

The rear axle wasn't that bad. If you need to borrow my tool let me know. That helped it go along very smoothly. The suspension is super quiet now, except when it scrapes haha. All I can hear is the interior rattling now!


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