# Headlight Restoration



## nightryder12 (Aug 4, 2009)

3hrs and a bit of elbow grease. It only took me a little over 2hrs for the headlights, I cleaned my glass w/ the Invis cleaner afterwards.
Here are the materials:








And the before pics:
















The L was way worse than the R so I snapped a pic of what it looked like before I used the No.7 Glaze








And then the after shots
















I am gonna do it again here soon and I don't think it'll take as long. I do want them to be







crystal clear.


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## TXR32 (Jun 4, 2006)

*Re: Headlight Restoration (nightryder12)*

not too bad. In that lens restoration kit, what grits of sand paper did it come with? It looks like you could use one more pass on a finer paper. Also, I found using a rubbing compound along with a polish helped get my old GLI's headlights looking brand new. 
Good job though for your first attempt http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## nightryder12 (Aug 4, 2009)

*Re: Headlight Restoration (TXR32)*

Thanks, it had been a long day and I'm not too satisfied, but it did put a smile on my face this morning when I went out and looked.







I'd have another go tonight but I can't. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


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## 22AudiQ (Sep 13, 2008)

Hate to burst your bubble, but I used 3M's headlight restoration kit and it took me 20 minutes per headlight... and it looks just as good...
Seriously, that kit defied my expectations. Worked wonderfully on my Subaru's lights!!


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## nightryder12 (Aug 4, 2009)

*Re: (22AudiQ)*

I'd believe it. I'm not a big fan or Turtle Wax products. that's why I posted the pic of just the kit's results on the left lamp. I was trying to imply there that, one it took me a little while to get a rhythm going with it but overall that I was taking my time. I only got the TW kit because it was on sale.








I've heard great things about 3M's kit though. I will probably get that next.


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## addictedtogum (Sep 20, 2005)

*Re: (22AudiQ)*


_Quote, originally posted by *22AudiQ* »_Hate to burst your bubble, but I used 3M's headlight restoration kit and it took me 20 minutes per headlight... and it looks just as good...

me too, except my lights look like they are brand new. You need to keep on working on those lights
Before:








After:


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## 22AudiQ (Sep 13, 2008)

So 2 votes for 3M's kit then??


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## nightryder12 (Aug 4, 2009)

Definitely, isn't that one a drill attachment kit?
If so I want a few extra points for elbow grease! 
x2 votes for 3M's kit


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## TXR32 (Jun 4, 2006)

*Re: (nightryder12)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nightryder12* »_Definitely, isn't that one a drill attachment kit?
If so I want a few extra points for elbow grease! 
x2 votes for 3M's kit

Yes you attached it to the end of a drill. Works wonders as I have used it on many of my customer's cars.


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## Jhazon (Jul 12, 2005)

I have the same issue with my 2003 headlights. So what is this 3M kit? Anyone have a link?


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## nightryder12 (Aug 4, 2009)

*Re: (Jhazon)*

http://www.autogeek.net/3m-headlight-kit.html


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## Jhazon (Jul 12, 2005)

*Re: (nightryder12)*

I found this video on YouTube > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfsuCbxviDA


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## Stevesvws (Apr 12, 2004)

*Re: (Jhazon)*

use the 3m kit. you'll be very happy.


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## VDub285 (Dec 14, 2006)

*Re: (Stevesvws)*

another vote for the 3m kit. used it on my girls mkIII.5 cabby and was very pleased. and i found it at advanced auto for like 16 bucks


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## MonkeyBusiness (Jun 11, 2009)

*Re: (VDub285)*

3m ftw, much, much easier than doing the ol' sand and polish by hand method, which I had done in the past until I found the 3m kit


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## jminz (Jan 21, 2008)

The 3M kits work, but do not last unless you apply a clear coat on the lens. If not, you will have to keep polishing them every few weeks. I own a headlight restoration business, and method is quite different from that of the 3M kit, and it works flawlessly. I've perfected my method over the last few years, which is a big help when it comes to time. I guarantee all my restorations and offer my customers a 2 year warranty against fogging. I am also a certified distributor for Xpel products. 
To the OP, while your lights do look better, they still have a way to go. Shoot me a PM and I'll be happy to give you some pointers.


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## addictedtogum (Sep 20, 2005)

*Re: (jminz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jminz* »_The 3M kits work, but do not last unless you apply a clear coat on the lens. If not, you will have to keep polishing them every few weeks. 

no you don't.







spend $7 on a bottle of nu-finish and put a layer on. i have yet to touch mine again. Don't spread rumors to gain business.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4370748


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## VDub285 (Dec 14, 2006)

*Re: (robhurlburt)*

A business just for headlight restoration? First ive heard of such a thing.







i havent touched my headlights since i used them 3m kit im sold on it


_Modified by VDub285 at 2:11 PM 10-15-2009_


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## jminz (Jan 21, 2008)

*Re: (robhurlburt)*


_Quote, originally posted by *robhurlburt* »_
no you don't.







spend $7 on a bottle of nu-finish and put a layer on. i have yet to touch mine again. Don't spread rumors to gain business.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4370748

Rumor? You cannot strip the OEM clear coat off a lens (this is what a 3M kit does), apply polish and expect it to last. Once the polish wears off the lens will begin to get foggy again. I think I might have a little more experience with this than you my friend. 
If you don't seal the lens, you aren't doing much to protect them. 
Gain business? I operate locally. I wouldn't get business from anyone on this board unless they are located in KY. That wasn't my intention anyway.


_Modified by jminz at 3:59 PM 10-15-2009_


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## MonkeyBusiness (Jun 11, 2009)

*Re: (jminz)*

correct me if im wrong but IIRC there is NO clear coat on the lens, they are simply plastic. I have done my head lights in the past and they lasted 2 years with out having to redo them.


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## jminz (Jan 21, 2008)

*Re: (MonkeyBusiness)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MonkeyBusiness* »_correct me if im wrong but IIRC there is NO clear coat on the lens, they are simply plastic. I have done my head lights in the past and they lasted 2 years with out having to redo them. 

All plastic headlight assemblies come with a UV clear coat on them from the factory. The clear coat is what yellows. If it has lasted 2 years without applying a clear coat then I'm guessing you prob didn't sand off all of the clear coat when you restored your lens, so it could still be doing its job, or you keep your car garaged. Sunlight is plastic's enemy.


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## HOVTroll (Jan 10, 2005)

*Re: (jminz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jminz* »_
All plastic headlight assemblies come with a UV clear coat on them from the factory. The clear coat is what yellows. If it has lasted 2 years without applying a clear coat then I'm guessing you prob didn't sand off all of the clear coat when you restored your lens, so it could still be doing its job, or you keep your car garaged. Sunlight is plastic's enemy.

This is the truth.. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
OP.. Unless you sand them down you wont be satisfied at all.. either doing that by hand or using a kit (3M, Harbor Freight, etc.)


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## MonkeyBusiness (Jun 11, 2009)

*Re: (jminz)*

learn something new everyday... I def sanded the clear off, they went from being very yellowed to crystal clear, guess its the shady spot I park in


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## Innovative Detailing (Oct 5, 2009)

*Re: (MonkeyBusiness)*

OP......this is the proper way to do headlight lens restoration which is generally a 6 step process......
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=260TxpkxgOk
Dave @ Innovative Detailing
definitely not your $15.00 kit from the local auto parts store, and the results show!


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## HOVTroll (Jan 10, 2005)

*Re: (Innovative Detailing)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Innovative Detailing* »_OP......this is the proper way to do headlight lens restoration which is generally a 6 step process......
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=260TxpkxgOk
Dave @ Innovative Detailing
definitely not your $15.00 kit from the local auto parts store, and the results show!

3m's kit basically is the same thing.







Nice results though.


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## addictedtogum (Sep 20, 2005)

*Re: (jminz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jminz* »_
Rumor? You cannot strip the OEM clear coat off a lens (this is what a 3M kit does), apply polish and expect it to last. 

i'll come back here after a year has past and let you know how well mine has stood up with a layer of polish on it. My car is rarely ever garaged and sits in the sun all day at work. If i remeber (which i won't) i'll post up a 2 yr pic


_Modified by robhurlburt at 5:55 AM 10-16-2009_


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## jminz (Jan 21, 2008)

*Re: (robhurlburt)*


_Quote, originally posted by *robhurlburt* »_
i'll come back here after a year has past and let you know how well mine has stood up with a layer of polish on it. My car is rarely ever garaged and sits in the sun all day at work. If i remeber (which i won't) i'll post up a 2 yr pic

_Modified by robhurlburt at 5:55 AM 10-16-2009_

Go for it. They might not be as bad as they originally were, but they will be significantly worse than new headlights.


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## addictedtogum (Sep 20, 2005)

*Re: (jminz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jminz* »_
Go for it. They might not be as bad as they originally were, but they will be significantly worse than new headlights.

And your point? On your website it says your headlights won't look new either. Either way, a headlight that has 2 years of wear and tear on it will not look the same as a brand new headlight (unless said headlight has a protective film applied).
_"However, our service can still restore the clarity of your headlights up to 95%"_


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## TXR32 (Jun 4, 2006)

*Re: (Innovative Detailing)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Innovative Detailing* »_OP......this is the proper way to do headlight lens restoration which is generally a 6 step process......
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=260TxpkxgOk
Dave @ Innovative Detailing
definitely not your $15.00 kit from the local auto parts store, and the results show!

I have used that kit at a local body shop that I know the owner of and it does get you amazing results. However the owner gave the 'over the counter 3M kit a try on one of his personal vehicles and started swearing b/c the results were so similar to his expensive kit but at a fraction of the cost. He did hook up the pads in the kit to his compressor tools but besides that the results were very very similar. For most weekend detailers out there, the 3M kit is the way to go.
As far as a clear coat, yes it will help keep the lenses more clear for longer if you have it on there, but its not needed. Just seal them with Meg's 105 a few times a year and you should be fine. Here in Texas we see some damn hot summers where that sun destroys plastics and my customer's have not once complained of their head lights looking 'faded' again.
My process for a bi-annual cleaning of my car's headlights are as follows (note this is NOT restoration steps):
1.) Basic wash of the headlights using Meg's Gold Class Car wash
2.) Meg's claybar to get rid of any surface contaminants
3.) Meg's Swirlx 
4.) Meg's 105 
I've done this for years even on headlights where i did do restoration and have had no problems with hazing or 'yellowess' returning.
My .02 on the subject, take it or leave it


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## jminz (Jan 21, 2008)

*Re: (robhurlburt)*

The 95% is a disclaimer. Nowhere on my site does it say "your lights will not look new." In almost all restorations I perform, the lights are restored back to their original OEM state. There are however, lights that are so bad that they cannot be restored back to 100%, that's why it says 95%.
You just proved my point as well... "Either way, a headlight that has 2 years of wear and tear on it will not look the same as a brand new headlight (unless said headlight has a protective film applied)." 
If you restore a light without using a UV coating, it will degrade MUCH faster than a light that has been sealed with a UV sealant. 

_Quote, originally posted by *robhurlburt* »_
Either way, a headlight that has 2 years of wear and tear on it will not look the same as a brand new headlight (unless said headlight has a protective film applied).
_"However, our service can still restore the clarity of your headlights up to 95%"_


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## addictedtogum (Sep 20, 2005)

*Re: (jminz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jminz* »_
If you restore a light without using a UV coating, it will degrade MUCH faster than a light that has been sealed with a UV sealant. 


much faster? as in you need to polish it every few weeks?








and explain to me how I proved your point? unless you put a plastic cover on the headlights (lamin-x, ie protective film), 2 years down the road your headlights will not look new. UV spray paint coating or not.


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## jminz (Jan 21, 2008)

*Re: (robhurlburt)*


_Quote, originally posted by *robhurlburt* »_
much faster? as in you need to polish it every few weeks?








*Yes, that has been my experience. If others have not had the same experiences as me that is ok. Kentucky weather is very different than that of most of the country, (harsh winters, hot summers) so polishes do not last long.*
and explain to me how I proved your point? unless you put a plastic cover on the headlights (lamin-x, ie protective film), 2 years down the road your headlights will not look new. UV spray paint coating or not.
*False, most OEM headlights don't begin to degrade until after 3 or maybe 4 years. Yes, headlight film works great, I use Xpel on my own lights and offer it to my customers.*

In any case, if you disagree with what I'm saying that is fine, I'm trying to help out the OP.


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## addictedtogum (Sep 20, 2005)

*Re: (jminz)*

_Yes, that has been my experience. If others have not had the same experiences as me that is ok. Kentucky weather is very different than that of most of the country, (harsh winters, hot summers) so polishes do not last long._
I live in lexington. I grew up in CT so the winters here are completely mild with 1, maybe 2, snowfalls where the snow is on the ground for a over a week. there is nothing harsh about KY winters. Summer can be very hot, albeit this year was very mild.
_False, most OEM headlights don't begin to degrade until after 3 or maybe 4 years. _
theoretically, headlights begin to degrade the instant they hit UV rays/road grime. Just because you can't see it, doesn't mean its not happening.


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## jminz (Jan 21, 2008)

cool, go CATS!


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## MarkX (Sep 9, 2007)

*Re: (jminz)*

I agree with you on most points. You are right about the UV layer without it your lens will turn yellow and oxidation will return faster to an exposed lens.
Some vehicles use a solid UV plastic for their lens while others place a thin plastic UV layer over ordinary plastic,
The latter degrades and yellows with normal wear at an accelleratad rate.,
Oxidation on these lens should be removed with the least damaging method. The non abrasive acrylic lens deoxidizer was designed expecially to prevent damaging the UV layer and or lens surface while removing this oxidation which affects some cars quicker and worse than others.
Also enviroment and climate make a big differance.
Sometimes you may have to use an abrasive on your lens, buts thats only when you are trying to remove scrataches or pits.
For oxidation removal only I would never use abrasives.
Safest choice Deoxidize
And yes after you remove oxidation the lens needs to be protected against the elements, some use wax but their are better options that will protect better and not yellow like wax.
http://www.ibc34.com/Onestep.html


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## exceldetail (Apr 30, 2004)

*Re: (22AudiQ)*

I can vouch for the 3M kit also, but then again I tackled my Dodge Cuad Cabs headlights a few weekends ago with Opt Compound and a 4" Orange pad on a cordless drill, and well.....it came out just as nice!


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## jminz (Jan 21, 2008)

*Re: (MarkX)*



MarkX said:


> I agree with you on most points. You are right about the UV layer without it your lens will turn yellow and oxidation will return faster to an exposed lens.
> Some vehicles use a solid UV plastic for their lens while others place a thin plastic UV layer over ordinary plastic,
> The latter degrades and yellows with normal wear at an accelleratad rate.,
> Oxidation on these lens should be removed with the least damaging method. The non abrasive acrylic lens deoxidizer was designed expecially to prevent damaging the UV layer and or lens surface while removing this oxidation which affects some cars quicker and worse than others.
> ...


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## MarkX (Sep 9, 2007)

*Re: (jminz)*

Ok jminz I was with you until this point.
Plastic oxidizes not just the UV layer. The UV layer does not protect against oxidation, It protects against yellowing.
With or without a UV layer plastic will oxidize but it will only turn yellow if exposed to the UV rays from the sun.
All headlights will oxidize, no matter what you do, but all will not yellow.
Oxidation will start out white but can turn yellow as it gets contaminated with road contaminants such as gas and oil.
This oxidation can easily be removed without sanding in fact sanding is the worst thing you can do to a plastic lens UV layer or not.
When the UV layer is completely removed the lens will yellow and then there is nothing you can do to fix that. Preservation of the UV layer is always the first choice in restoring a headlight. With the original factory UV layer The lens will not be exposed to the yellowing UV rays of the sun.
Oxidation is not a cause of bumps and pits.
That is surface damage.
In a case like that where there is damage you will need to actually resurface that lens, but the resurfacing is to removes the scratches and pits, the oxidation and the protective factory UV layer gets removed during the process but it is by no means the optimum way to deoxidize a plastic lens.
Based on your last statement I would say that there is very little difference between the 3M method and the one you use, out side of you adding a sealant.
Plastic sealants without a UV inhibitor will yellow and degrade even quicker.
You may do an excellent job restoring headlights but you are mistaken if you think Oxidation causes surface damage, trying to convince people that it does will only hurt your business in the long run.


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## jminz (Jan 21, 2008)

*Re: (MarkX)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MarkX* »_Ok jminz I was with you until this point.
Plastic oxidizes not just the UV layer. The UV layer does not protect against oxidation, It protects against yellowing.
With or without a UV layer plastic will oxidize but it will only turn yellow if exposed to the UV rays from the sun.
All headlights will oxidize, no matter what you do, but all will not yellow.
Oxidation will start out white but can turn yellow as it gets contaminated with road contaminants such as gas and oil.
This oxidation can easily be removed without sanding in fact sanding is the worst thing you can do to a plastic lens UV layer or not.
When the UV layer is completely removed the lens will yellow and then there is nothing you can do to fix that. Preservation of the UV layer is always the first choice in restoring a headlight. With the original factory UV layer The lens will not be exposed to the yellowing UV rays of the sun.
Oxidation is not a cause of bumps and pits.
That is surface damage.
In a case like that where there is damage you will need to actually resurface that lens, but the resurfacing is to removes the scratches and pits, the oxidation and the protective factory UV layer gets removed during the process but it is by no means the optimum way to deoxidize a plastic lens.
Based on your last statement I would say that there is very little difference between the 3M method and the one you use, out side of you adding a sealant.
Plastic sealants without a UV inhibitor will yellow and degrade even quicker.
You may do an excellent job restoring headlights but you are mistaken if you think Oxidation causes surface damage, trying to convince people that it does will only hurt your business in the long run. 

ok, I see now that you are a rep for this website that you posted. You still did not address any type of warranty your product offers. Pits and bumps comes with the territory man. If you have a lens that is yellow/white/cloudy or whatever you want to call it, its going to have some defects, ie bumps, scratches and pits. People drive their cars, hit rocks and what not, it happens.
I'm sorry, but my method does not mimic that of the 3M kit. I woudn't even condisder 3000 grit abrasive. Like I said, with my method, the 3000 grit is used to remove any pits or bumps that might remain after I have removed the oxidation from the lens.
If you rub your fingers across a severly oxidated headlight, it feels rough to the touch. How does your product take care of the roughness of the oxidation itself? I'm still interested in the warranty that you offer your customers. 
Also, are you saying there is a difference between a headlight oxidizing and a headlight yellowing? Tell me exactly step by step how your product works. It sounds like your product might be for vehicles that only have very light oxidation.
Lastly, I assure you nothing I've said will hurt my business. I've never had one complaint from any of my customers. My business model won't change just because we disagree. To each his own.


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## MarkX (Sep 9, 2007)

*Re: (jminz)*

I guess these people are reps for the web site too?
http://mz3club.com/smf1/index....27436


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## jminz (Jan 21, 2008)

The Mazda 3 club of Greece? Sorry, I can't read Greek.


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## jayho04 (Dec 12, 2009)

*Re: Headlight Restoration (nightryder12)*

You should call the Headlight Purifier. They will come to you're home/work and completely restore you're headlights! They apply a U/V hard coat that lasts for years. And they offer a lifetime warranty. 424-204-2205


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## VDub285 (Dec 14, 2006)

*Re: Headlight Restoration (jayho04)*

Just an example of the 3M headlight restore kit. Did my grandfathers headlights on his newly purchased mustang. top is the drivers side headlight Untouched. About and hour in each light. pretty self explanatory instructions in the kit.


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## 22AudiQ (Sep 13, 2008)

I am still satsified with my 3M kit results, but now I'm noticing them beginning to oxidize again, even after using Collinite and #105 on them.


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## jminz (Jan 21, 2008)

*Re: (22AudiQ)*

Yes, they will oxidize again without a uv hardcoat sealant. Sanding down headlights and not sealing them with a clear coat is comparable to sanding down/polishing metal and not applying a protectant to keep it from rusting again.


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## cfree5119 (Dec 18, 2009)

*Re: (Jhazon)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jhazon* »_I found this video on YouTube > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfsuCbxviDA

Where can I find these types of polishing wheels used in this video? I have only been able to find wetordry sandpaper at walmart but would prefer to use these.


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## TXR32 (Jun 4, 2006)

*Re: (cfree5119)*

goto Lowes/Home Depot or even your local Autozone (if you have one near you). My local Autozone carries all the 3m sand paper needed to restore headlights. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## cfree5119 (Dec 18, 2009)

I can find the sandpaper but not the buffing wheels with the padded foam behind the sandpaper.


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## TXR32 (Jun 4, 2006)

*Re: (cfree5119)*

Just purchase the 3M headlight restoration kit...it comes with all the stuff you need including the backing plate


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## cannoli32 (Feb 1, 2003)

what about applying a coat of wax to protect the redone headlights after you polish them?


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## Mechorg (Sep 25, 2003)

*FV-QR*

All this bickering about the proper way to recondition headlight lenses is getting ridiculous...
Fact #1: All plastic lenses have a factory UV protection on them.
Fact #2: All plastics will oxidize over time.
Fact #3: UV protection slows the oxidation process.
Fact #4: Reconditioning (with an abrasive) any plastic headlight lense *will* remove the factory UV protection.
Does the 3M kit work to recondition headlights? Yes
Can you do the same thing with sand paper and a polish? Yes.
Do you need to reapply a UV protection to extend the life of your headlights? No
Will it help? Probably
Every car is different and making arguing points from a single case is uneducated. When I recondition lights, I just use stages of sanding followed by M105 (a polish, by the way... which doesn't have any protective properties), M80 (again, a polish... which is an abrasive and doesn't "wear off"), followed by M21 (a sealant which holds UV protection). 
A sealant like M21 or Optiseal (which I also use sometimes) will not be as permanent as applying a clear coat, but I have yet to find a solid UV protection to replace simply sealing the surface every few months. A sealant will last between 6-12 months depending on various factors. A wax will only last a month tops on your headlights.
For most people on this board, using the 3M kit followed by a regular sealant will be good enough of a fix. In two years if the headlight starts fading again, just refinish it again. Don't listen to these guys saying their way is the only way to do it.


_Modified by Mechorg at 9:17 AM 12-23-2009_


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## bubuski (Jun 14, 2001)

*FV-QR*

This link was a good source for me. 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2485084&page=1 


_Modified by bubuski at 6:56 PM 12-26-2009_


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## DawnsKayBug (Oct 25, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (bubuski)*

On Ebay theres tons of headlights for like $20.. I just buy new ones if I need too ..


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## MarkX (Sep 9, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Mechorg)*

Good information. 
Some headlights are damaged so bad they do need abrasive cleaning. 
In addition some designs are not easily cleaned with abrasives.
In fact using an abrasive on them would make them worse.
Here is an example on one such design:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5XPoZARi0T0 
I don't know of any sealer that actually has a UV inhibitor built into it but if there is such a sealer, it would be my choice, if I did need to replace the old one.
At any rate 
No sealer will prevent oxidation and oxidation is normally the problem.
It is oxidation that clouds the lens and diffuses the light not a few chips or scratches on the lens.
Oxidation is a reoccurring problem that has to be dealt with as it occurs.
You can sand it off or wipe it off, which ever works best for you.


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## Northsea Green MKV (Jan 14, 2010)

*Re: FV-QR (MarkX)*

hmm, on my 2005.5 jetta I just sprayed on some ****in spray and wash and let it dissolve all the grime. 
I assumed the yellowing was just from mildew that grows on plastic from water residue after rain, condensation, etc
looks like new
no grit, polish, film needed 8)


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## rsj0714 (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (nightryder12)*

3m kit for sure. It is an amazing kit and it was only like 20 bucks. I have used that kit for my current car and my previous car and it brought them both back to basically new shape.


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## Innovative Detailing (Oct 5, 2009)

*Re: (rsj0714)*

Here are some videos that I put on my site......it shows you how I perform my headlight lens restorals.......
http://www.headlightlensrestoral.com/
updates coming soon, it's still under construction......





_Modified by Innovative Detailing at 6:34 PM 1-31-2010_


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## onizuk4a (Dec 19, 2008)

*Re: (Innovative Detailing)*

anyone ever lay laminx over the headlight after doing a restoration?
basically a clear coat film over the lens, not sure if its uv protection, but at least itll protect the headlight for awhile


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## MarkX (Sep 9, 2007)

*Re: (onizuk4a)*

Laminx or any covering will shield against chips and scratches but not against oxidation.
UV damage is not oxidation nor does it cause oxidation.
What UV damage does is cause the lens to turn yellow, not just the surface but through the entire lens. No amount of sanding will remove this yellow.
The UV layer does not prevent oxidation, whether it's new or old, pitted or scratched.
There is no connection between the two.
Surface damage is not caused by oxidation or UV rays, it is most commonly caused by abrasive headlight cleaning "KITS".
The chips or scrapes your car gets from normal driving is not enough to effect light projection by clouding the lens.
Oxidation is a white or yellow build up on the lens surface that can be removed without abrasives and without destroying your UV layer.
There is no "bad plastic" only bad advice leading someone to believe it is necessary to refinish your headlight in order to remove something as common as oxidation.
Any HEADLIGHT CLEANING KIT that involves abrasives, sandpaper, buffers, polish including 3M will cloud the surface of your headlights with tiny scratches.
If you want to remove oxidation and save your UV layer, use a deoxidizer.
If you want to remove scratches along with your UV layer use an abrasive polish.
And for cars that have the UV protection built into the plastic, The same rule applies.
Where you cant harm the UV protection you can still cloud the lens with scratches.
You should never under any circumstances use sandpaper, wet or dry on acrylic/plastic headlights.


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## jminz (Jan 21, 2008)

*Re: (MarkX)*

I disagree with most of what you said. What are your credentials if you don't mind me asking?


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## VIVDUBBER (Nov 12, 2005)

*Different strokes for Different Folks*

All of these arguments over what method is best, to use, is just ridiculous.
We all know that depending on the severity of the oxidataion to a headlight lense, that would be the determining factor on what method is used to restore or remove the oxidation.
Paint repair is the same thing; some scratches can be buffed out and other need to be repainted. Just the same with Paint finishes some can be buffed out while the sun can damage others beyond repair.
The argument about how to preserve your UV coating is moot, because in most early Polycarbonate headlight lenses the coating was insufficient to begin with. So resufacing is the only way to restore true optical clarity.
On cars as new as 2006 you can see that the headlight lenses are coated with a much more robust protective sheild and these with proper care will not have the same severe damage as the earlier ones.
I have tried many DIY kits and have come to realize that dollar for dollar the 3M is one of the best to use. Honorable mention goes to The clear view system which uses sand paper and a sealant. I only note it because it come with a durable sealant however the sealant does not give you a good surface unless you polish sand the sealant smooth.
The "sand and polish" method for older headlight is just fine because, whether they have been restored or not maintenance with PlastiX and some sealing with ICE or Rain-X lasts about 6 to 9 months
If you can keep them from getting cloudy in the first place then all the debating on which system or product to use won't be needed.



_Modified by VIVDUBBER at 8:50 AM 2-17-2010_


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## Mechorg (Sep 25, 2003)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *MarkX* »__(I refuse to quote all your BS)_

Ahahahhahaha! You're the Pittman guy! 
I just followed the links you've posted and the only "good" reviews I have ever seen by Pittman products are obviously shillers. I will now completely disregard everything you have to say because of the product you shill. Good luck with the rest of the forum.


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## wolfsbeard (Jan 18, 2003)

*Re: (MarkX)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MarkX* »_Any HEADLIGHT CLEANING KIT that involves abrasives, sandpaper, buffers, polish including 3M will cloud the surface of your headlights with tiny scratches.

^^^Doesn't this seem like an odd argument against the kit considering this is the basis of almost ALL polishing? - the scratches get smaller and smaller until you have polished them away to a smooth finish. 

_Quote, originally posted by *MarkX* »_Surface damage is not caused by oxidation or UV rays, it is most commonly caused by abrasive headlight cleaning "KITS".
You should never under any circumstances use sandpaper, wet or dry on acrylic/plastic headlights.

^^^I'm not a professional, but it's hard to believe that these kits or methods are the way headlights are damaged considering the remarkable improvement in appearance and function.


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## MarkX (Sep 9, 2007)

*Re: (wolfsbeard)*

You are correct from one view point, the confusion begins with negating the differences between an opaque object and a transparent one.
What works well on paint or colored plastic will not work as well on transparent or translucent plastic
The closer you look at the surface the more evident the difference become.
There is no way to remove a scratch with a scratch.
You can conceal it with more scratches.
Ultimately you will have to use a liquid sealer to cover the new scratches used to conceal original scratches.
These sealers are either acrylic (water based).
or
Polyurethane (oil based).
Acrylic will stay clear longer but will break down quicker.
Polyurethane will last longer but will yellow quicker.
Neither of these products offer UV protection.
That is why is is important to avoid using abrasives and doing further unnecessary damage to your UV layer.
Yes there is an immediate improvement but it is based on the destruction of a foundation necessary for the headlight to maintain its clarity against known "natural" elements.
Not only is this a temporary fix but it accelerates the breakdown of the headlight itself.
The few pits and scratches you may have on a headlight is not going to be enough to block light but when you purposely start grinding down the surface of the headlight, you have made a negative impact on the surface of that lens ability to transfer undistorted light.



_Modified by MarkX at 3:49 PM 2-23-2010_


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## RedA4Quattro (Feb 26, 2010)

All of you have your own ways to do it. 
Idealy in order to completly fix the headlamp it needs to be sanded down and finished with a fine grit wetsand
Then polished with a compund and a finishing compound.
Cleaned with a degreasing soap and a new UV sealant applied.
Welworth makes the UV sealant. You spray it on almost looks like a realy thick goopy clear coat. 
Then you put it under the Welworth UV lamp and let it cure. 
Then its repaired!


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## DowNnOuTDubin (Jun 21, 2006)

*FV-QR*

I just used 800 grit then 2000 grit, turtle wax all purpose (abrasive polish), then meguiars plastx. I never did use the high speed with the plastx
Background info: I bought this tail light for $25 (low balled him since he said it was flawless). Took some time with it and got all the scratches and paint transfer out. 
I'm going to try this process on my headlights next and spend some extra time on them.
Before:








After:


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