# Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions [TOC] [Photos re-hosted]



## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

I undertook this job after experiencing flickering from the dipped beam (also on during DRL) bulb, that's the outermost lamp with the small opaque lens that prevents you seeing the bulb itself. I decided to have a go myself after coming across the instructions originally posted by zenmoused and reposted by 357sig.

Firstly, this isn't an easy job, it's significantly more difficult than the instructions make it seem. It took me 2.5 hours, and I failed to replace one of the clips that secures the plastic panel covering the exposed parts of the bulbs, but it seemed secure enough without it. The instructions had a couple of important omissions, hence I'm posting an amended version which will hopefully help out anybody else to decides to do the job themselves.

The vehicle is a 2004 V8 North American model. The side I replaced was the passenger side (nearside). I got the bulb from partsgeek.com by just entering the vehicle model and following their links. It cost $83 and arrived within 24 hours of ordering, using the cheapest shipping option. The bulb was manufactured in Germany by Osram. This bulb is much longer than the high beam I think, it has an electrode protruding from the top and running down a post on the outside of the glass. The shape of the base is square, with a perpendicular fitting on one edge to take the connector, which is a similar shape to a USB computer connection.

Here are my amended instructions.

*How to Replace HID Headlamps*

Preparation

Step 1: Buy bulb/s. I decided to tackle one side at a time, I can't see any difference in brightness or colour between the new bulb now it's fitted and the old one on the other side, so I'm in no rush to change the other one yet.

Step 2: Collect your tools. You will need a long Philips screwdriver, a set of large pliers (channel lock worked well for me), a small mirror, a 5mm hex-key, and a T25 star bit.
Under the Hood

Step 3: Locate your airboxes and remove the covers. First undo the two buttons that hold the heat shield on the airbox, just like a fireman's jacket. Each airbox has 4 Philips head screws holding it together.Once these are loosened all the way (they won't come completely out), wiggle the air box lid out of the way and you will see the air filter. Remove the filter and set it aside.

Step 4: Remove the snow screen. In your airbox will be a trapezoidal screen held in place by one Philips screw. Remove the screw and slide the screen out. While you have these out you should run them under some water to clean them. If they're particularly dirty, this will yield noticeable performance gains.

Step 5: Remove the air duct from the front of the engine bay. These are each held in place with three star screws on the driver's side and two star screws on the passenger side. They're really easy to remove. They're the long black plastic ducts that are attached to the front lip of the engine bay.

Step 6: Move the airbox lids out of your way. First look for the compression ring that attaches each air hose to the plenum. Use your pliers to move the ring and remove the air hose from the plenum. This will allow you to move the lid of the airbox aside. (Note- be very careful not to get anything into the plenum while it's open).

Step 7: Move the airboxes out of the way. Now that the tops of the airboxes are moved, you can move the airboxes themselves so you can get to the headlights. The airboxes are held in place by a hex screw, which is located at the top of the airbox and connects to the fender. Remove this screw, don't drop it! You can get it with your fingers before it comes completely out. The airbox will still be held down. This is because it has two plastic pegs that fit into rubber grommets below them. With two hands, pull directly up with some force, and the airbox should come free. To get enough leverage, insert your hand through the duct on the side where the snow filter was. Once out of the grommets, the air box can be removed with some wiggling and rotating. You'll definitely need it completely out.

Step 8: Remove the bulb cover. There will be two stiff metal wires holding the plastic cover to the back of the headlight housing. These are extremely difficult to move out of the way, especially the one at the back. Take the mirror and have a good look at the rear of the cover first. Make a careful note of where the bottom of the clips locate into the housing. To get the cover off, I had to remove the clip one completely (not a big deal, it goes back easily), and I had to unclip the bottom of the rear one. The rear clip will pivot off the lower of the two notches on the back of the cover fairly easily, but is extremely difficult to pivot off the top one, it helps to do it with a gardening glove on to save the skin on your knuckles. Eventually I took the bottom of the clip out of the hole it locates into, I was then able to push it back and unpop it from the top notch. On my vehicle, the windscreen washer pipe is fairly tight against the plastic headlight cover, near the top of the rear clip. Take the cover completely out and you will see the back of the headlight. If you're having a lot of difficulty in getting the cover off, look at the front of the vehicle, there's a screw visible which holds the headlight housing in place on the side nearest the radiator. Removing this screw allows a marginal amount of play in the position of the whole headlight housing, giving you a millimetre or so of extra clearance at the back.

Step 8a: Bulb removal. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO JUST PULL THE BULB STRAIGHT OUT. The connector is facing downwards- pull it off straight down. The bulb itself is secured by a diamond-shaped clip that is hinged on the far side of the bulb. Take a look at it with the mirror before trying to remove it. Feel along the vertical edge nearest to you, you can feel where the clip comes to a rounded point. To unclip it, push forwards (twowards the front of the car), then upwards and backwards underneath the point. It then pivots easily out of the way. The bulb is still held in place by 4 spring clips along each edge, it pulls out of these, but I had to use a flat-blade screwdriver to lever one corner out first, it didn't take long, but it's not particularly easy, especially as you can't see what you're doing directly.
8b: With the cover off, the rear of the full beam bulb is accessible. I had a quick look but couldn't see any easy way to remove it. If you need to change this bulb, I'd recommend finding definitive instructions for removing the bulb prior to going to the trouble of getting the rear cover off. It might be possible to figure it out once you're in there, by that point I was anxious to get the rest of my job done, so I didn't spend a lot of time looking at it.

Step 9: Install your headlight. Don't touch the glass on your bulb. This is like a game of Operation, only way more rewarding when you win. Be very careful not to displace the electrode. Maneuver that baby into the socket and you should feel it click into place- make sure that the connector is facing downward. Connect the plug and put everything back together in reverse order. The most difficult part of replacing everything is the rear clip on the headlight cover. When you get as far as locating the air box, you can get your fingers underneath on each side to assist with locating the grommets.

Hope this helps! I posted it while it was still fresh in my mind, so NOW it's time for beer! I recommend Victory Hop Wallop for North Americans, and Thornbridge Jaipur IPA for those lucky enough to live in the north of England.


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## jsfrench46 (Aug 25, 2009)

Hello. Coincidentally, I did my flickering bulb last night also. Mine would have taken about 30 minutes if I hadn't had to deal with all the missing screws, parts, etc. that the "professional VW shop" tech failed to put in the last time they worked on the car. I replaced all of those, and that added to my repair. I would concur with these instructions, and I appreciate the help from all of you. 
John 
San Angelo, Texas


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## jsfrench46 (Aug 25, 2009)

P.S. I forgot to mention that I bought the VW bulb in College Station, TX. Paid $193.50, along with other parts that got me to almost 1k. Therefore, I can't afford those great beers you guys mention. It's a Coors Light Nite for me now. 
John


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## jsfrench46 (Aug 25, 2009)

Oh, and I also forgot to mention that I was able to extract a dead spider that was lodged against the inside of the headlamp assembly. I used endoscopic surgical tools, and inserted them through the hole where the high beam bulb is located. Very thrilled to have him outta there. It pained me to see him in there every day. 
John


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## 357Sig (Oct 9, 2008)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (invisiblewave)*

Martin,
Thanks for expanding on this topic. I've had the right (passenger) side most of the way apart before. My intention was to try to clean the contacts on the bulb, etc. Once I saw how much work it was going to be to do so, I decided to put it back together and order come bulbs.
I will be replacing both of my bulbs this coming Saturday. I'm really glad to know that it is definitively possible to remove the air box on the passenger side.
Bill


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (357Sig)*

For simply changing a bulb, it's a real ball-ache of a job, however, I should have added that it was definitely worth the effort considering the price of having it done at the dealer. I drove it in the dark last night and the new bulb appears to be marginally brighter on the road ahead than the old one on the other side, other than that there doesn't appear to be any visible difference between the new and old bulb output. Although there are quite a lot of parts to remove, the only really difficult part of the operation is the removal and replacement of the clips holding the rear headlight cover in place. I can also confirm that the flicker has definitely gone, which makes me wonder why the dealer was so mystified by it. It's evidently a standard feature of a failing bulb.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (357Sig)*

Bill, after you've done the job, I'd be obliged if you'd post about how you get that rear clip back in place. I might go back in and fix mine at some point. I got it off without detaching it at the top. I unclipped the bottom of it and couldn't get it back in during reassembly, mainly I think because I wasn't entirely sure where it should go. It doesn't seem to be causing any problems, but just knowing it's not in place is gnawing away at my subconscious.....


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: (jsfrench46)*

John, you really can't afford NOT to buy Victory Hop Wallop. 2 or 3 bottles and you completely stop worrying about the price of the bulb!


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## 357Sig (Oct 9, 2008)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (invisiblewave)*

I am going to do the left (driver side) on first, since it looks to be much more accessible. I will try to photograph it if possible and will post the pictures here.
Bill


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## 357Sig (Oct 9, 2008)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (357Sig)*

I have just been informed that scheduling will not allow me a free morning tomorrow on work on the car. It looks like it'll have to wait until next weekend.
Bill


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## brosen (Jun 21, 2009)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (invisiblewave)*

Did mine last night, expected to do 1/2 of the work last night (2 hours) and the rest today morning (2 more hours). It was easier than expected, in about 1 1/2 hours everything was done.
Dealer wanted to charge me for the job with labor and parts $870, I ended I spending $175 in parts and 90 min of my time, very rewarding job. 
Thanks for the great instructions.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (brosen)*

*Archival Note:* Original - and more comprehensive - discussion of this subject is at this link: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3656681


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## 357Sig (Oct 9, 2008)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (brosen)*

Bernard,
You inspired me. I did mine in about 2 hours start to finish. If I had to do it again, I'd say I could do both sides in less than 1 hour.
I took what I believe will be some useful photos. I'll try to post them this evening.
Bill


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## brosen (Jun 21, 2009)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (357Sig)*

Hi Bill, good you did it, I would say the most complicated part (at least for me) was to remove/install the "Lower" air box on the right side (passenger), but the rest is super easy.


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## 357Sig (Oct 9, 2008)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (brosen)*

Bernard,
I was not able to remove the air box on the right side, but once I had done the left one (driver side) I was able to do the right one mostly by feel.
Some parts of this job were fairly obvious, but many were not. Here is a breadcrumb trail for those who follow:
**** SOME OF THE PICTURES THE ARE ESSENTIALLY THE SAME ON BOTH SIDES OF THE CAR. IN SUCH CASES, INSTRUCTIONS ARE NOT REPEATED AND THE PICTURE MAY BE FROM THE "WRONG" SIDE. ****
Removing the left (driver side) air box cover was relatively simple. The first thing I removed was the plug on the top of the air box cover.








It pulls straight up. In order to release the little catch, I gently pulled up on the clip that is on the outside of the plug as I pulled on the body of the plug.








The cable that runs to the plug also has a clip on it. It has sharp teeth on it that grip a little flange on the air box. I used a tiny flat-bladed screwdriver to release the clip without damaging it.








Next, I removed the large air induction tube that runs from the air box cover to the intake plenum. I used a large pair of channel lock pliers and I was very careful because the compression clips that hold this tube in place are very strong. I removed the tube from both ends.
























It was necessary to reposition the spring clips on the intake plenum end before compressing them.
















I used a flat-bladed screwdriver to gently unsnap the heat shield fabric from the air box cover.








Next I unscrewed the four phillips head screws on the corners of the air box cover. The screws are designed to stay in the cover. Once I had the cover lose I pulled slightly away from the air box, then gently poked the top of the air box cover into the space between the top of the air box and the fender.








I was able to lift the bottom edge of the air box cover past the engine.








I thought this was as good of time as any prepare the air box cover for re-installation. While pressing gently with a finger, I unscrewed each screw just a little further so that the screw stood out of the air box cover. This will greatly simplify the installation process.








Next I removed the air duct that feeds air from the grille area of the car into the air box. It is held in place with three torx 20 screws.
With the air duct out of the way, I was able to remove the air box itself. While it is possible to remove the air box with the snow screen in place, removing the snow screen at this step has two benefits: First, if it hasn't been removed recently, it's a good bet that it is dirty and; Second, the air intake opening that is hidden by the snow screen is the best place grip the air box while pulling it out of the grommets. (see below).
Here's what my snow screen looked like.









Needless to say, I cleaned them both as detailed in this discussion thread. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2435648
The snow screen on this side of my car has a slot in it that keeps it from sliding out of the air box once the single phillips screw that secures it is removed. The snow screen on other side of my car did not have a corresponding slot. 
















Here is the post that fits into that slot.








With the snow screen removed, I finally was able to remove the air box. The air box is held in place by one torx 30 screw that screws into a flange at the top center of the air box. I was very careful not to drop the screw when removing it.








Next, I pulled straight up on the air box itself. I used a gentle fore and aft rocking action while maintaing a firm pulling force. The air box is held in place by two posts.








The posts slide into these grommets.








When I had removed the air box from the car, I had an unobstructed view of the rear of the low beam headlight assembly.








The rear cover is held onto the headlight assembly by two spring clips that pivot away from each other much like a set of barn doors. I found it beneficial to gently pull the topmost "hinge" (it's really just a stiff wire poked into a hole in the body of the headlight assembly) of the inboard clip out of its hole. 








The rear cover just pulls straight off and revels the rear of the light bulb.








Note the top "hinge" of the clip has been pulled out.
















The plug in the back of the headlight bulb is held only by friction. I pulled it straight down and out of the bulb.








The bulb is held into the headlight assembly by a clip that unlatches and opens like a door. Once the clip was unlatched, I removed the bulb by pulling it straight out. The base of the bulb fits into the headlight assembly. Not require much force is required to remove it or to reinsert the new one.








Close-up of the latch that holds the bulb retaining clip closed.








Old bulb after removal.








New bulb.
























Everything went back together just as it came apart.
The right (passenger) side was a different story. I chose to change both bulbs even though my left one had never shown any signs of trouble. I did so for a number of reasons. Chief among them was that I needed to see how the bulb fit into the assembly and that was not possible to do by just removing the right side.
Replacing the right side bulb is the same process as the left one, except.....
The air duct on the right side has two screws securing it instead of three.
The upper rearmost screw of the air box cover is difficult to reach, but can accessed like this:








The air box cover must be rotated in place in order to remove it from the car.








When reinstalling the air box cover, I had to gently move these hoses out of the way as I rotated it into place.
















I was not able to remove the right air box from the car, but I was able to push it out of the way by pulling it out of the grommets and pushing it as far forward (toward the front of the car) as possible. This allowed me just enough room to replace the bulb. 
There is an electric cable that runs behind the headlight assembly. This cable needed to be gently pushed up and outboard in order to remove and reinstall the headlight assembly cover.








I also found it very helpful to gently unhinge the top of the inboard spring clip while removing the cover. (See above for photo of left side)
The clip that secures the headlight bulb into the assembly hinges from outboard side while working on the right (passenger) side of the car. That differs from the left (driver) side where it hinges from the inboard side. To be a little more specific, if you were to position the two headlight assemblies side by side, the clips that secure the headlight bulbs would both hinge from the same direction. I would have expected them to be mirror images of each other.
That's about it. Do the left first, and the right one won't be that much more difficult.
Bill



_Modified by 357Sig at 12:09 AM 10-5-2009_


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## brosen (Jun 21, 2009)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (357Sig)*

Great pictures Bill, congratulations. 
To remove the right lower air box I had to loosen and partially remove the ignition coils harness, that's the ONLY POSSIBLE way to do it. To install it back it's another BIG challenge.
As you said, if I would have to do it again, it will not take me more than 1 hour.
NOTE: Do you remember the Build date for the new Bulbs ?, I forgot to check mines, and I think we both bought them at Geekparts.com.


_Modified by brosen at 4:39 PM 10-4-2009_


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## 357Sig (Oct 9, 2008)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (brosen)*

Bernard,
It was "q9j5"
Which I think means March of this year.
The one I removed from the left side of my car had a date code sometime in 2004 was still working fine and had never shown any signs of trouble.
Bill


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## brosen (Jun 21, 2009)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (357Sig)*

Great, mine were from the end of 2003 (my car is a 2004), meaning almost 6 years old, so I think I have at least another 6 years without problems, also I have disabled DRL lights in my car, meaning I will use the bulbs mainly during the night.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (357Sig)*

Awesome post, Bill, thanks very much for taking the time to create such a detailed set of instructions. I have not had to change a bulb yet, but when I do need to, I'll come back to this post.
Michael


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## mhoepfin (Dec 20, 2007)

Awesome post! I know my time is coming for bulbs and you just saved me about $500 with your detailed pictures!
Much appreciated....


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (357Sig)*

LOL. You out-did my instructions by several orders of magnitude, Bill! The flickering's getting worse on my driver's side bulb, your post has reassured me about tackling it, you've confirmed that I've already done the more difficult side. It looks from the photos as if there's much better access to the bulb once the airbox is out of the way than there is on the passenger side. I couldn't find any angle from where I could get a good look at it. Thanks for the fantastic pictures!


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (brosen)*

Bernard, are you talking about the passenger side airbox on a V8? I managed to get mine right out without removing any other parts. I did have to rotate it and do some wiggling, and it probably took a good 5 minutes from having it loose from the grommets to getting it right out of the vehicle. Getting it back in was easier than getting it out.


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## 357Sig (Oct 9, 2008)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (invisiblewave)*

Martin,
Thanks for the kind words. 
I didn't spend a significant amount of time trying to get the passenger side air box out, though I would have liked to. I've never been a gamer, but it would seem that the skills that one may learn playing Tetris or working the Rubik's Cube would come in handy when removing the air box. After having just replaced the driver side bulb, all I needed was minimal access the back of the passenger side headlight housing. So I just worked from memory with the box still in the car. Admittedly, the job would be much easier had I been able to remove it.
I considered it an honor to give a little something back to this forum. It has been an invaluable resource for me, not to mention an awesome use of the Internet.
Bill


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (357Sig)*

Agreed. I wouldn't have been able to change the bulb myself, or have known to check the variable intake mechanism had it not been for this forum. Nor would I now be having sleepless nights about the clunk coming from my front suspension.....


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## thedini (Oct 20, 2009)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (invisiblewave)*

invisiblewave,

GREAT INSTRUCTIONS!!! By far the best of any I have seen online or in a manual! Thanks so much and kudos to the great board.
I did my 06 V8 without any issues.
Got some bulbs from ebay and they seem to be great.

Only a few Notes on the drivers side bulbe replacement:
On the headlight assembly, I didn't need to remove the outer clip, I just pushed it back and pulled the back plate off
The lower air box was more of a pain to take out than expected, lift up a bit, rotate inboard, lift up a bit more and then rotate out.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (thedini)*

Glad to be of assistance, although I think Bill's pictures are more deserving of praise! I used them myself when I changed my second bulb last week, even having already done one bulb several months ago. I still can't get that electrical connection off the top of the airbox, but I've been able to do the job easily enough both times without removing it (V8). The driver's (left, in this case) side was definitely easier, mostly because of the washer fluid tube being in the way on the other side. I found it's a very satisfying job to do because it's difficult enough to feel a sense of achievement when you've finished, but it's not too difficult that you're going to really run into trouble, and on top of all that you save a huge packet on the dealer price.


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## jkuisma (Nov 23, 2009)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (thedini)*

I'm now done replacing both xenon bulbs on my V6 TDI. The car is from 2005 and has "regular" (not bi-xenon) headlights.
I was VERY determined to do the bulbs without removing the bumper. In the V6 TDI, the coolant reservoir sits exactly where you would want to put your hands into to reach to the fender. This is to replace the driver's (left) side bulb. Passenger side appears to be identical to a V8 so it should be doable.
I do have pretty small hands and I spent a lot of time trying. Got as far as opening the back cover, disconnecting bulb wiring and pulling it out from the socket. But then it was time to admit myself that the bulb will not come out of the fender without violence, nor would it be possible to put a new one in and get all the clips back in place. Problem is, that you can reach there with two fingertips only.
In order to get even that far, I had already disconnected a handful of hoses from the coolant reservoir, pulled it as far to the front as it goes, and that necessitated a removal of a air duct coming from the intercooler. You would need to get the reservoir out completely, but that does not seem to be possible without removing the engine first








So, all in all, it is not possible (everything's possible: so let's say feasible) to replace the xenon bulbs on a V6 TDi without removing the bumper and headlights.
So I took that route. No real problems, but while working on this, I could not help myself wondering what were the engineers in Dresden/Wolfsburg thinking... Michael's photos were invaluable - it would have been impossible to locate those two "hidden" bumper screws just by following VW's own instructions from ELSA...
Another interesting find: there's been quite a lot discussion on the board about cleaning the snow screens in the air intake. The air box is different between NAR and ROW models, that's true. What surprised me is, that there is no snow screen at all in my air box (and no place to install one)!
Doing the bulb replacement myself I may have spared some money (new Philips bulbs were 39 euros each) but am now paying the price in form of an aching back...








Jouko 


_Modified by jkuisma at 8:47 AM 1-17-2010_


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## MichaelGa (Dec 1, 2009)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (jkuisma)*

I just replaced both HID bulbs. Took a lot longer than expected with the airboxes in the way etc. I wasn't able to remove the bottom part of the airbox on the drives side. Had to reach behind it. After some broken skin, replaced the bulb. The passenger side took me 10 minutes to do and I was able to remove the bottom of the airbox and easy reach to replace bulb. My biggest struggle is putting the bottom of the airbox back in it's place. I can't get it to fit in the space required. I can manage to get it in but not correctly and can't turn the box to set it straight the way it need to be so I can put everything back together.
Can anyone out there provide some insight to how to put back the bottom of the airbox on the passenger side?
I'm at a loss.
Thanks!


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (MichaelGa)*

I've done both sides on mine and don't recall any special trick with the airboxes. It was just a case of manipulating them until the lugs are positioned over the grommets, I seem to recall it was possible to get fingers underneath to feel where the grommets are. As for getting the box out, once the show filter is out of the way, you can get a good hold on the box using the hole the filter came out of.
Having said all that, if you did the passenger side in 10 mins, you're doing a lot better than I did anyway!


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## MichaelGa (Dec 1, 2009)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (invisiblewave)*

Amazingly I finally squeezed the box back in. I thought something surely would break. What a relief! put the car back into to place within minutes after that. New bulbs can't wait for a night drive!
Happy as can be now


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## Debart (May 26, 2008)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (MichaelGa)*

Unfortunetelly, not possible in case of dual-xenon lamps... (low and high beam) due to ballast mounted by few screws on the rear of lamp... Ballast covers xenon connector and you have to disassembly the bumber and headlamps


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## sjglaser (Nov 18, 2009)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (invisiblewave)*

A big thank you for these very detailed instructions, plus the photos and comments from other members. I followed the instructions meticulously, and had no major difficulty... And dealing with the air boxes, thanks to the instructions, I knew it could be done. I would have not dared do this without the great procedure and photos.
After going through the learning curve of doing one side, the other one was far easier. Two hours for the first side, and one hour for the other. I am very happy with the outcome. 
My biggest surprise however was how incredibly dirty the snow screens were. Once clean, fuel efficiency increased.
Also, Parts Geek.com ships very fast.. Got them the next day even though I paid ground. Wonderful service.
Again, THANKS for saving me some big $$$.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (sjglaser)*

Steve, welcome to the "I changed my own bulbs and saved a packet" club. Sounds as if your experience was very similar to mine, the first side took nearly two hours, the second side about half as long, and I was also gobsmacked by the state of the snow filters, I'm fairly sure they'd never been cleaned before despite the car having a full VW service history.


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## tgarbrecht (May 30, 2007)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (invisiblewave)*

All,
I have the same flickering. For those that have changed the bulbs, is it possible that the bulb was just loose, and just needed to be 'secured'?
Thanks


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## sjglaser (Nov 18, 2009)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (tgarbrecht)*

Hi 
I am no expert on the subject, however, I can tell you that bulb is:
1. Secured by a clip,
2. The electrical connector at the bottom of the bulb is very tight
3. Then, the entire assembly has a cover with gasket with a double clip
If your bulb is flickering and is a few years old, chances are it is the bulb and not the connector.... One way to find out however, and is to get in there and look. I am not mechanically inclined, however, the bulb replacement instructions are very good.... The parts geek .com site sells the bulb at an excellent ($80s) and they ship extremely fast.
regards


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## sjglaser (Nov 18, 2009)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (tgarbrecht)*

Forgot to mention, the whole process is worth it just to get in there and clean out the snow screen... My fuel efficiency increased about 5% AND the car definitely feels "zippier."


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (tgarbrecht)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tgarbrecht* »_All,
I have the same flickering. For those that have changed the bulbs, is it possible that the bulb was just loose, and just needed to be 'secured'?
Thanks

Highly unlikely, imo. The connector is very well secured into the base of the bulb. When I reported mine flickering to the dealer, they said they checked out the connections, found no problems, and were at a loss to explain it. A quick search on this forum pulled up plenty of evidence that flickering and discolouration are fairly certain indicators of a failing bulb. Get it done, lad!


----------



## dododavis (Dec 29, 2004)

Success!! 2 hours passenger side and tired, so driver side will wait until it goes out I guess. Directions and photos are awesome, could not have done it without the help - thanks! I do not have much to add, but I will summarize the finer points, for those who have read all the posts above. Agree partsgeek for the bulbs, fast and reliable. Hardest part is pulling the bottom half of the airbox off the grommets, then getting it out (and later back in). Swinging metal hinges on back of black plastic cover (the black plastic cover is covering the back of the bulb) were tough to put back in, so look at them (in place) before removing them, remember how they were in there. If the bulb is flickering and/or purple/red, I agree it needs to be replaced. The standard connection is very very tight. By the way, my passenger snow screen was pretty good, it was slightly dirty, but with very fine dirt, you could easily see through it. I rinsed it and dried it and the water was a little dirty, but nothing too bad really. Again, thanks to everyone, so so helpful. 
Mike


_Modified by dododavis at 7:01 PM 2-19-2010_


----------



## etiennesk (Jan 27, 2010)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (invisiblewave)*

Hello,
is it possible to change the bulb on a W12 without taking the bumper off? Have tried it now maybe for 2 hours, but I simply do not think that it is possible to pull the air filter assembly (lower big plastic) out. It simply doesn't have enough space.
When I looked at Elsa, it is also there stated, that the whole light should be removed... Can somebody please tell me?


----------



## jimay (Aug 1, 2006)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (etiennesk)*

Using the photos and instructions from this site I was able to get mine out by blind feel. 
The bad news was that one of the bulbs grenaded inside the housing when it died. It came out with all the metal and two stubs of glass. The rest of the glass was in fragments inside the housing. I had to have the bumper taken off to remove the housing so the glass could be cleaned out of it.


----------



## etiennesk (Jan 27, 2010)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (jimay)*

But you did it on a V8, not W12, right?


----------



## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

*Re: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions (etiennesk)*

I know you can do it without taking the bumper off on a V8, and seem to remember that on a W12, you don't have the choice but remove it...
P.


----------



## efleming21 (May 30, 2006)

I just tried replacing the drivers side headlight with the osram 66144 bulb and to no avail. The light did not come on. I bought two lights to replace both sides and neither buld worked. Can I then asume that it is not the bulb and could be the controller? And if it is the controller is this covered under the cpo waranty or the platinum extended warranty?
Also, do I need to disconnect the battery(ies) to perform this replacement?
Thanks for any and all responses.


_Modified by efleming21 at 5:59 PM 3-20-2010_


----------



## paperclip (Aug 31, 2007)

*Re: (efleming21)*

I asked the dealer to replace my drivers side bulb in my V8 due to flickering. Long story short they were unable to access it from the top and reccommended that the bumper come off. I declined and will give it a shot myself. They also mentioned a short and long version of the headlights and that I had the long version. Does this sound correct?


----------



## paperclip (Aug 31, 2007)

*Re: (paperclip)*

45 minutes and the drivers side bulb is done. The directions were invaluable and much appreciated. I will be making a trip back to the dealer to explain to them how it is done. Many thanks!








Does anyone have any input on the long and short headlight excuse that I got?


----------



## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: (paperclip)*


_Quote, originally posted by *paperclip* »_
Does anyone have any input on the long and short headlight excuse that I got?

It sounds like the latest in a long line of excuses that get trotted out when it comes to reasons not to carry out work on Phaetons, especially since you were able to do the repair yourself. I've been trying to get my dealer to do a software upgrade, but they just keep refusing.


----------



## jkuisma (Nov 23, 2009)

*Re: (paperclip)*


_Quote, originally posted by *paperclip* »_
Does anyone have any input on the long and short headlight excuse that I got?

The only thing I can think of is, that there are two type of headlights available for a Phaeton of your vintage. Standard headlight has xenon for low beam and halogen for high beam. In Europe, there was a bi-(read:dual)xenon headlight available as an option. It is "longer" in a sense that the low beam "access door" has the xenon control unit screwed on the top of the hatch. With this type of headlight, it is impossible to access the low beam bulb without taking out the whole headlight. This headlight was not available in the US (except for Michael







). I guess the guys had a look at the ELSA repair system and jumped into a conclusion.
As already reported in this thread, taking out the bumper is pretty doable DIY as well. To remove and replace it is a few hours work the first time and next time you could do it blindfolded







Having the bumper out means you don't need to have cynecologist's hands to do the bulb replacement and you also get a chance to get familiar with what's in there behind the bumper. I washed away lots of dirt and grime from the radiator and intercoolers etc.
Jouko


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## Auzivision (Apr 19, 2007)

*W12 is possible*

Thanks to this thread, I can say first hand that it is entirely possible to perform this procedure on a W12. There is no need to remove the bumper. I’ll post some pictures on how to remove the passenger side air box later. I R&R the driver side with the air box in place. 

Any way you look at it, it’s not an easy job. It took me almost 3 hours. At first I was cleaning all the parts I removed, but soon gave up on that practice in order to get it done. I did clean the snow screens and air filters. The passenger side was fairly clogged up… drivers side not so much. 

One thing I love about German engineering. There is always a correct way and once you get it, you know it. Things just fit, snap, click into place without excessive force. It's like a whole bunch of little rewards along the way.


----------



## Auzivision (Apr 19, 2007)

W12 HID replacement picture story. 

First Remove plastic trim: 









http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb240/auzivision/PhaetonHeadlight001.jpg


Open air box and remove filter: 









http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb240/auzivision/PhaetonHeadlight002.jpg


Note how filter is doing great job of keeping foreign objects from being ingested: 









http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb240/auzivision/PhaetonHeadlight003.jpg


Remove ‘snow screen’, more like a bug screen: 









http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb240/auzivision/PhaetonHeadlight005.jpg


I removed oil breather to gain more room (very nice connectors BTW): 









http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb240/auzivision/PhaetonHeadlight019.jpg


Loosen air box fasteners: 









http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb240/auzivision/PhaetonHeadlight018.jpg


Pull up on air box to release mounting brackets underneath: 









http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb240/auzivision/PhaetonHeadlight017.jpg


Rotate air box: 









http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb240/auzivision/PhaetonHeadlight015.jpg


Twist: 









http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb240/auzivision/PhaetonHeadlight014.jpg


Pull again: 









http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb240/auzivision/PhaetonHeadlight013.jpg


Rotate again: 









http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb240/auzivision/PhaetonHeadlight012.jpg


And out pops the air box… at no time did I use excessive force, just kept trying different angles: 









http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb240/auzivision/PhaetonHeadlight011.jpg


To me this was the most value photo because it showed me were to begin the reinstall process… note this is from behind looking toward the front of the car: 









http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb240/auzivision/PhaetonHeadlight007.jpg


Thump chest like gorilla, but not too hard because the fun has just begun: 









http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb240/auzivision/PhaetonHeadlight009.jpg


Other photos in this thread show how to R&R the bulb itself. Basically ‘open the barn door’… little wire clasp that holds lamp in place. Disconnect lamp (need tiny hands). Pull bulb back and out. 


Old on left, new on right: 









http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb240/auzivision/PhaetonHeadlight010.jpg


Note the slightly different design: 









http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb240/auzivision/PhaetonHeadlight022.jpg


The black approximate 1 inch ring is what holds the bulb steady in the bracket… so different design is just fine. 


The other side proved to be even more difficult to remove the air box even though at first there appears to be more room. I was able to get it far enough out of the way to feel my way through. Since I had already done one side, I had a decent idea what I was up against. All I can say is getting the ‘barn door closed’ correctly just about put me over the edge. 









http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb240/auzivision/PhaetonHeadlight020.jpg


Then, just before finishing this project I dropped a fastener into the great abyss. Needless to say, not a chance it will fall through to the floor on our cars. Luckily, I have one of these handy dandy magnetic retrievers. I stuck it in the black hole and can’t describe the blissful feeling that consumed me when I heard that old familiar click! 









http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb240/auzivision/PhaetonHeadlight023.jpg


After verifying operation I appropriately treated myself to a Bitburger!


----------



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Awesome write-up and photos Kurt, *thank you very much* for creating this.

Michael


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## Auzivision (Apr 19, 2007)

Ah shucks... I don't deserve that kind of credit. I simple added a few more photo's to an already outstanding thread. 

I do agree that referencing one of your old gems also helped a lot: 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2435648


----------



## Tully Lee (Jan 3, 2011)

What does the dealer charge for this service of replacing both right and left side lights with labor? 
Just curious? 

Tully Lee


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## Jim_CT (Jan 25, 2006)

Tully, 

I am pretty sure most dealers have a procedure that calls for removal of the front bumper in order to replace the head lamps. So maybe $700, including the bulbs. 

Jim


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## WillemBal (Nov 20, 2010)

*Costs of bulb replacement*



Jim_CT said:


> Tully,
> I am pretty sure most dealers have a procedure that calls for removal of the front bumper in order to replace the head lamps. So maybe $700, including the bulbs.
> Jim


 Pretty close Jim, I just had them replaced by the dealer and the invoice mentioned a stunning € 2995.46, which includes replacement of 2 HID bulbs, 2 city light bulbs, 2 blink bulbs 1 MAF sensor, 2 TPMS sensors, and 4-wheel alignment+ radar sensor alignment. But the costs for bumper removal are not so high. The HID lights in particular are very, very expensive. They must be very special! 

See below table for details. 









http://lh6.ggpht.com/_7hGB7rt3JBA/TShhqIm1A3I/AAAAAAAAAEw/qm3udxkO64o/s800/Replacement%20Phaeton%20HID%20lights%20costs.JPG

I've seen HDI lights (D1S type) for considerably lower prices on the internet. I will certainly do it myself next time, following the air box removal procedure, so I can inspect and clean the snow filters as well. 

Willem


----------



## sjglaser (Nov 18, 2009)

Kurt 

Your photo demo is very much appreciated..... I had done the V8, and now I was wondering if the W12 may be different... and there was your procedure! 

Today I experienced not the infamous the light goes out for a few seconds followed by a warning on the dash that also lasts a few seconds and then the bulb comes back on....."" Today at startup the passenger side light went out, followed by warning on the dash; however the bulb remained out.... So naturally, knowing the self-healing powers of the Phaeton, I simply turned the car off, pulled out the key, waited a few seconds, and then started the car, and the light worked! No flickering, no light turning purple, looked pretty normal... Anyone ever experience this? My only two possible thoughts are: the light is starting to fail, or a loose connection... 

Regards 

Steve


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## Auzivision (Apr 19, 2007)

I'm not a gambling man, but I bet real money the light is getting ready to fail. 

Mine went out a number of times before I finally got around to fixing it. Only once was I able to pull over and get out to see it out... every time it would relight and work for a while longer. 

Your symptoms sound identical to what I experienced... light out, warning on, light return, warning go away... repeat sometime later. 

I think it becomes a matter of how much annoyance one is willing to put up with. When mine went out driving the interstate on a dark rainy night with my wife onboard, my meter pegged out.


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## sjglaser (Nov 18, 2009)

Yup, that's what happened....as you state it is a question of how much one wants to gamble.....I guess I'll order a set of bulbs from Partsgeek.com and change them out before I really have to. Again, thanks for the procedure...


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## WillemBal (Nov 20, 2010)

sjglaser said:


> So naturally, knowing the self-healing powers of the Phaeton, I simply turned the car off, pulled out the key, waited a few seconds, and then started the car, and the light worked! No flickering, no light turning purple, looked pretty normal... Anyone ever experience this? My only two possible thoughts are: the light is starting to fail, or a loose connection...


Steve, I just had all my lights replaced by the dealer with original parts two weeks ago, and this already happened once. I could fix the problem by just switching off the lights, then switch them on after a couple of second without turning off the engine.

A possible explanation is that the controller or the ballast circuitry detects some kind of problem, such as low power supply voltage and then decides not to ignite the bulb.

My light switch is always in the "Auto" position. This causes the lights to go on when I unlock the car, however the lights are also automatically switched off during the start of the engine, then switch on again as soon as the engine is running. Maybe this occasionally causes a power surge and therefore nothing to worry about.
Willem


----------



## sjglaser (Nov 18, 2009)

Willem

Thanks your input......

On the other hand, my 2004 W12 has never had the xenons replaced (at least that's what the service history indicates), so they are getting pretty old... What I remember with the V8 is that the lights would "flicker," off for a couple of seconds, warning, then right back on....

What happened with the W12 is the light went out, and remained out... I turned the light switch knob (I too keep it on auto). I had to turn it off and restart it and then it cleared out. You see if I turn the knob to "off" the DRL still remains on.

I have a question for you... In the NA Phaetons the DRL is always on... I can turn the lights to the ""off" position and the DRL remains on.... So in your case when you turn the light to ""off"" the light really turns off in the Euro Spec Phaeton?

Regards

Steve



Regards

Steve


----------



## WillemBal (Nov 20, 2010)

sjglaser said:


> In the NA Phaetons the DRL is always on... I can turn the lights to the ""off" position and the DRL remains on.... So in your case when you turn the light to ""off"" the light really turns off in the Euro Spec Phaeton?Steve


Yes, the light really turns off. Except when I approach or leave the car. When I approach and unlock the car, they stay on until the engine is started. When I leave the car, then the light stays on up to 30 seconds after locking the car. (adjustable trough the infotainment menu). 
It shouldn't be difficult to disable the DRL with VAG-COM and code it according to European specs. There is a thread on this forum which describes this in detail.

Regards, Willem


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## Itzmann (Jan 16, 2006)

Auzivision said:


> W12 HID replacement picture story.


Thank you for the detailed post. If I understand correctly, you were not able to remove the bottom part of the airbox on the driver side.

I know I was not on the W12. Nonetheless, we know for a fact that on V8 cars both boxes can be removed.

In the end, just as per Michael's original post of 2008, on a W12 you need only remove the top of the airboxes and the connecting air tube to the engine.

I found, nonetheless, that unscrewing the bottom of the airboxes and pushing them forward within the cavity generated a bit more space which came in handy to replace the low beams.


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## rscharf (Jan 19, 2004)

*Could Someone Repost the Pictures for Headlight Bulb Replacement Instructions for a V8?*

First of all, hello to everyone since it's been forever since I've posted or read much on the forum.

I'd like to ask if someone could repost the pictures for headlight bulb replacement on a V8.

My lights have been flickering for a long time and I probably won't be able to wait much longer before I replace them.

Thanks!

Robert


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

It's the same as the pictures below, but with the addition of the inlet vent things you remove first (screws along the edge under the hood) and there's no need to remove the oil breather pipe (if the V8 even has one). Getting the airbox out without removing other parts is a bit of a puzzle, but not hard, you just have to rotate it correctly. Once the airbox is out you can eyeball the bulbs, but it helps to have an inspection mirror.


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## ceeandchance (Sep 12, 2009)

*Headlight replacement Phaeton*

Thanks to the VWVortex site, I was able to replace my front headlights by ordering them online (partstrain.com) and paying the local bumber replacement shop $100.00 to do the job. The Volkswagon dealership was going to charge me a little over $600.00 to replace. Thanks to all of you for your posts.

Part #: W0133-1647934
Make: Volkswagen Year: 2004 Headlight Bulb Phaeton|W12
Sylvania
Qty: 2.00 
Price: $ 85.95

Sub Total: $171.90 
Shipping: $0.00 
Handling: $0.00 
Tax: $0.00 
Core: $0.00 
Discount: $17.19 
Total: $154.71


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

*Need your help on HID replacement: can't find the barn door to open !!!*

First, I have a 2004 ROW V8 with two xenon bulbs and need to change the main one (standard beam, not high beam) on the right handside of the car. 

In his great post above, Auzivision says: 


Auzivision said:


> ...
> Other photos in this thread show how to R&R the bulb itself. Basically ‘open the barn door’… little wire clasp that holds lamp in place. Disconnect lamp (need tiny hands). Pull bulb back and out.
> ...


 First, I don't seem to be as talented as Auzivision because after trying rotating the airbox for 2 hours, I simply can't get it out from there... (but well, it's a V8 and Auzivision's photos were about a W12, but what is terrible is that everyone seems to say that a V8 is simpler to do than a W12 :facepalm: ) 

So I decided to give up on this and try to change the lamp, but now, for the life of me, I don't see any "barn door" to open... 

Here is a photo I took by snugging my iphone next to the back of the headlight assembly, where I think the barn door should be located (I'm trying to change the right handside bulb). 

Is the "barn door" inside the box with the hazard sign ? If so, there is absolutely no way I can open it: the silver part on the right of the photo seems to be the wheel arch ! 

Can anyone point me on what to do next ? I'm clueless... 

Thanks a million, 

P. 

Here are my headlights: 








http://i454.photobucket.com/albums/qq270/gandards/PharePhaeton_800.jpg

and where I got to now...: 








http://i454.photobucket.com/albums/qq270/gandards/BackOfHeadlightAssy.jpg


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## Prince Ludwig (Mar 24, 2007)

Pierre, 

Unfortunately, you have the dual xenon headlamps which have the second HID controller bolted on behind the dipped beam buln rather than the cover which is held in place with the metal lever arm. I fear it's a bumper-off job to replace the bulbs... 

Harry


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

Ouch... too bad...  

I think this this means I need the extra long screwdriver that I don't have I'm afraid... 

I'll check it out. 

Thanks for the info, Harry. 

Once the bumper is off, do I need to take out the complete headlight assembly, and should I then open the cover (that seems to be fixed with screws) with the hazard sign on to get access to the lamp ? 

P.


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## Prince Ludwig (Mar 24, 2007)

I think you'll be better off taking the whole headlamp out. As long as you don't alter the silver bolts at the headlamp mounting points there shouldn't be any alignment problems when re-installing them. 

From memory you'll have to undo the six screws that hold the controller that's at the rear of the headlamp, disconnect the cable and then undo the four bolts that hold the plastic frame to the headlamp (one of them is visible in the picture you posted). 

Be careful when screwing these bolts back in as the plastic is very soft and it's easy to strip the thread. 

Harry


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

Err... this makes me think that the bulb I bought (from Stephen) looks like one of those: 









http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb240/auzivision/PhaetonHeadlight022.jpg

Harry: is this the correct model for dual xenon ? (it looks like halogen to me). 

P.


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

Sorry to bump up this post... Are the bulbs above fine for dual xenon headlamps or do dual xenon headlamps need other types of bulbs ? 

Thanks, 

P.


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## Prince Ludwig (Mar 24, 2007)

Pierre, 

Both of those bulbs are HID - you can tell by the salts that are deposited on the inside of the little quartz bulb. 

Both the high and low beams in the dual-xenon setup use D1S bulbs so the ones you have should be fine. 

Harry


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

Thanks for your clear answer, Harry, 

So does this mean that non dual-xenon cars have xenon dipped beams and halogen high beams ? 

P.


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## Prince Ludwig (Mar 24, 2007)

Yup! 

H


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

This is strange, because xenon bulbs are supposed to be more powerful than halogen bulbs, so why use halogen on high beams ??? 

Then, are dipped beams also on the outside of the car ? And if so, why is it possible to change the lamp on standard headlamps and not on dual xenon ??? (if they are located at the same place, that is). 

P.


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## Prince Ludwig (Mar 24, 2007)

The dual-xenon headlamps were an optional upgrade on every model other than the W12. The standard headlamps have the dipped beam bulb in the same location but the rear of the headlamp is completely different - it's a plastic cover that's held in place with a clamp while the dual-xenon headlamps have a cover that's screwed in place with the second bulb controller mounted on top of it (that's the silver box that you can see in your photo). 

Harry


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

To bad they couldn't put the controller behind the high beam bulbs... 

P.


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## wouterjansen60 (Aug 27, 2011)

*Dual Xenon ballast 3D0909157a ( low beam) levelling failure*

Ond year ago, both my xenon bulbs were replaced under warrenty by my local dealer . I noticed a different color as i had before originally. The xenon type dealers used as a spare is OEM color 4300k, BUT new delivered Phaetons are equiped with color 5300k (slightly whiter).

I decided, now two years later, to change both for a fancy color 6000k, really nice white and perfect vision. However..... As i used (obviously) cheap Chinese D1S xenons they last for about one year. I replaced both again (btw, when u have the V6TDI you HAVE to remove the front bumper, washer units and both the headlight units) i decided to upgrade for 8000k ( blue/white color).

Reviewing my work now, not a smart idea. After investigation it was obvious i destroyed both my existing ballasts 3D0909157a / valeo 8939123 (price 550 euro each) using 8000k Xenons :-( These type of ballasts seems VERY sensitive for Non OEM Xenons. . Now way i will pay this amout so i searched ebay. I found a replacement ballast 3D0907391b for 99 each. Good deal so far as they are widely mentioned as compatible.

After removing the bumper again ( i get experienced now), i replace both ballast and wow, both lower beams back to life, however..... Now a get a warning that lower beam levelling is not working anymore. ¥#%£$£¥|@@

Anyone any idea about compatability between ballast 3D0909157 and 3D0907391 ? Vagcom needed to reset or learn this new controller? 

Wouter


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## wouterjansen60 (Aug 27, 2011)

Referring my last reply, i forgot to mention When opening the car with remote, the both lower beams do move up and down.. No clue why i get this beamlevel dash warning.

Wouter


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

wouterjansen60 said:


> Referring my last reply, i forgot to mention When opening the car with remote, the both lower beams do move up and down...


That is normal behaviour whenever the lights are initially supplied with power.

Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

wouterjansen60 said:


> Vagcom needed to reset or learn this new controller?


Wouter:

Yes, whenever you replace a ballast, you need to adapt (calibrate) the new ballast. It is a controller, and it controls a moving object (the headlight).

The process is rather complicated, and requires access to a Hella Beamsetter in addition to a diagnostic scan tool. The process is fully described in the repair manual. It is a different process for NAR (North American Region) vs. ROW (Rest of World) cars.

Michael

*Hella Beamsetter*








http://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/Hella_Beamsetter.jpg


----------



## wouterjansen60 (Aug 27, 2011)

Hi Michael,

That is actually good news. After this Adaption the dashwarning is hopefully disapaered 

When u intent to visit The Netherlands again, so we might go for a local flight on TB20 

Wouter


----------



## wouterjansen60 (Aug 27, 2011)

http://i1144.photobucket.com/albums/o485/Wouterjansen60/headlight2.jpg


----------



## wouterjansen60 (Aug 27, 2011)

Today using VCDS i tried to reach the control units in order to get rid of the warning message about levelling lights. 

Well, after replacing both ballasts, the Xenons works fine again, but i just cant reach the Xenon adaption sequence..... It just not respond. 

Any thoughts here before i need to go back to the dealer and look at the smile on there faces  

Thx, Wouter 

Ps, the replacement ballast are an equivilent of the 3D0909157 but has type 3D0907391 installed now.


----------



## wouterjansen60 (Aug 27, 2011)

This message is what i get after replacing wit new ballasts/control units. 









http://i1144.photobucket.com/albums/o485/Wouterjansen60/lightmove.jpg


----------



## WillemBal (Nov 20, 2010)

Isn't Kwikfit able to help you with this?  
It would be great if you could do this on your own, however, it seems that you need a Hella Beamsetter with VAS-505X or Hunter VAG 1944B alignment tool. 

Perhaps you can do the job with your VCDS and the below attached procedure. 

Regards, 

Willem 








Attached Files 








Phaeton Headlight Alignment.pdf


----------



## wouterjansen60 (Aug 27, 2011)

*Phaeton Low beam controllers ( faulty levelling)*

Good evening, 

In case you experience a faulty (Low beam) Xenon, it might be caused by a faulty controller (or ballast) as they are realy sensitive for non OEM Xenons. As mentioned earlier in this threat, both mine needed to be replaced. Be SURE if you need them, to order only the original control devices 3D0909157A and 3D0909158A (12-pin version for Phaeton V6 TDI 2007). Each around 500 Euros.. 

All other controllers as offered to be compatible on Ebay, for instance the 3D0907391, does restore the Xenon functionality however WITHOUT beam levelling feature. You will end up with a dash warning apart of legal regulations. I added the controller pics. 

Additionally, using cheap Xenons, a typical result is bloom on the inside of the headlight glas. Obvious this is nearly impossible to remove as the unit is fit tight to the main headlight construction. I was able to clean the inside using straws and lots of patience and swears...  









http://i1144.photobucket.com/albums/o485/Wouterjansen60/IMG_1678.jpg











http://i1144.photobucket.com/albums/o485/Wouterjansen60/IMG_1679.jpg


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## robbie-rocket-pants (Mar 25, 2012)

I bought some fairly cheap Philips Xenstart D1S bulbs off ebay. They did not come in a Philips box so I was a bit curious to know if they were fakes. 

I found this useful document to help tell whether you have bought fakes or not : 
Philips document explaining how to spot fake HID bulbs
http://www.hidbulbzrus.com/vs.pdf

Fortunately I'm now convinced mine are OK.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

That's very revealing. I've archived a copy here. Thanks. 

Chris


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## wouterjansen60 (Aug 27, 2011)

*Headelight levelling problem solved*

With the help of Willem and his knowlegde of VCDS my Headlight Range levelling is working again.

In case you need to buy a new ballast for the Phaeton, be sure using 3D0909157/158*A* and not a " compatible unit ", otherwise you will end up in a unreachable Controller without lowbeam autolevelling. Not to mention the work before you can reach the both headlight units.

After installing the correct ballasts, some adaptions has to be made ( learning controller).

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 29: Left Light Labels: 3D0-909-157.lbl
Part No: 3D0 909 157 A
Component: EVG GDL+AutoLWR(l) 0001 
Coding: 0000017
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 
VCID: 2756F9C2A9B70224

1 Fault Found 
00003 - Control Module 
014 - Defective - MIL ON

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Coding 0000017 has to be changed into 0000001 and save the settings for both the left and right ballast/controlunit.

Of course, specific beam adjustments has to be performed using a Hella unit and using the white adjusters behind the front fender washer units.

Cheers,
Wouter


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## WillemBal (Nov 20, 2010)

Hi Wouter,

Good news that you finally got rid of this nasty MIL. Your stealership now sure will be happy to adjust them for you.  Since the adaptation procedure is basically identical to other VAG cars, I wonder whether this cannot be done by anyone else with a Hella or compatible beamsetter. We went through the complete procedure during the GTG. Anyone with both VCDS and beamsetter should be able to adjust them correctly in no time.

Regards,

Willem


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## cowboy_ (May 16, 2011)

*Additional Pictures*

Hi Guys,

A couple of days ago I went down on my knees and faced the change of a HID headlight. It was down and I need it to change it. I used a LOT of information from this post but there were some missing pictures that will help a lot if you have them.

First of all there is no need to remove the filter housing, it is much better if you can get it out of the way, but if you only loosen it and move it just a side that's good enough. With that you gain access to the back of the lights and from there you need to remove a couple of metallic clips and then remove the plastic cover. After you remove the plastic cover you have access to the almighty HID, from there on is really really easy, it takes like 1 minute to remove the old lamp and put the new one, but just to get there is some work that you need to do. I recorded a couple of videos and took some pictures, if anybody is interested let me know, I can share.

I also have some pictures from the eBahn (3.1.0) manual that helps a lot:


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## TampaAPB (Jul 18, 2009)

*Fidelity (VW Real Driver) Paid for Labor to Replace Headlamps*

This may be the best instructions yet on headlight bulb replacement - for people that have the VW Real Driver Warranty ... my 04 Phaeton had been periodically getting the "Check Headlamp" warnings for several months and I knew replacing one or both was in the not too distant future. 

I took the car in for its annual service - mileage is less than 5K per year - last week. As expected, the service adviser called me to share the headlamp fault codes downloaded indicated I needed to replace the bulbs. I told him that I was planning to do that myself knowing the great instructions we have here in the forum. To my surprise he said, that if I wanted to just drop by the bulbs he would make sure they were installed because they'd determined that not one but both "controller" modules were also bad (causing flickering) and Fidelity agreed to pay for them. Since they needed to remove the bumper, etc to install these new modules, there was no additional labor to put in new bulbs.

Here is what my invoice stated:

..............
CHECKED VEHICLE VIA GUIDED FAULT FINDING
FOUND FAULT 00978 BULB DIPPED BEAM LEFT SHORT CIRCUIT
FOUND FAULT 00979 BULB DIPPED BEAM RIGHT SHORT CIRCUIT

REPLACED LEFT CONTROL UNIT AND HID BULB
REPLACED RIGHT CONTROL UNIT AND HID BULB

$1447.53
..............

So - as much as I wanted to do the replacement myself, this was just too good to pass up!

- Adam


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Did they manage to get the bumper cover back on ok???


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## TampaAPB (Jul 18, 2009)

Did the bumper cover get put back on correctly? I have no idea how one would even verify that - I've driven the car, looked it over and everything appears secure ... there are no unsightly gaps or poor fitting areas I can tell. Something I should look for?

- Adam


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Yeah, look closely around the headlamps to make sure the gaps are even, and where the bumper meets the wing. Also around the fog lamps. Check the headlamp washers work and retract correctly, that the front parking sensors work, and check for cracks on the narrow strip under the headlamps and on the flat part just under the hood where it's bolted on. The dealer I used was incapable of replacing it correctly, after several attempts, several breakages, and many swear words with which the people at the dealership were previously unaquainted, they sent it to another dealer in the group to have a new bumper fitted.


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## cowboy_ (May 16, 2011)

Hi Adam,

How's Kuhn VW worked out for you? Any comments? (good or bad) I'm taking my car next week and I would like to hear your experience with them first.

Thanks!
Juan


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

From what he's said about them so far, they have two pluses already. First one is they managed to get Fidelity to replace the bulbs, when mine started flickering the dealer had no idea what the problem was and didn't even think about contacting the warranty company. Second one is they appear to be able to get the bumper off and back on again, which in my experience is a good indication that they have good grease monkeys.


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## TampaAPB (Jul 18, 2009)

Update on the headlamp replacement/bumper removal: After going over the bumper several times, it sure appears everything was reassembled correctly. I'll update this thread if something goes awry in the future.

I want to clarify something too - Fidelity did not replace the bulbs, they replaced the control modules. It was convenient to replace the bulbs at the same time. So I paid for the bulbs - I actually ended up just buying them from the dealer, the prices were reasonable.

As for Kuhn - good guess where I was. Our forum moderator Michael is nothing if not vigilant about reminding us to keep our comments regarding service experiences, dealers and similar parties civil. I'm happy to report that Kuhn falls easily into that category - they are the only dealer I've been too where you often see other Phaetons also in for service, a good sign indeed. Their techs are very skilled and appear to have seen pretty much everything in terms of Phaeton maintenance issues. My only advice is to listen very carefully to recommended services and understand any variances to the standard mileage-base VW Phaeton service schedule. You are welcome to IM me if you want more information.

- Adam


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## wouterjansen60 (Aug 27, 2011)

*Help on adaption RH low beam controller*

Good evening,

As i replaced a couple of month ago already both my control units for lower beam, all works fine. I just cannot get my right side controller into adaption to get rid of the MIL. The controller is prepared for Phaeton.

Even during a standard maintenance my dealer was not able to perform the adaption, so i decided to ask your advise here in the forum. The good news is that when i turn on the ignition, both lower beams do move up and down as they suppose to do, also no problem with fixed adjustment level neither any warning on the dash. 

The Left beam seems to adapt to level changes, right side nothing.

So, basically i want to adapt the rightside controller, although i can not reach it .... Neither i can reach "automatic lighting" address 49...

I added some VCDS screen shots. Weird is that the dealer did not mention anything about the level sensor fault... but they do not know i have VCDS (and i better keep it that way)

Additional question, why i cant reach address 49, what i do possibly wrong?

Thanks,
Wouter









http://i1144.photobucket.com/albums/o485/Wouterjansen60/VCDSlight2.jpg









http://i1144.photobucket.com/albums/o485/Wouterjansen60/VCDSlight3.jpg









http://i1144.photobucket.com/albums/o485/Wouterjansen60/foto-1.jpg


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## WillemBal (Nov 20, 2010)

wouterjansen60 said:


> I just cannot get my right side controller into adaption to get rid of the MIL.....The Left beam seems to adapt to level changes, right side nothing.
> So, basically i want to adapt the rightside controller, although i can not reach it .... Neither i can reach "automatic lighting" address 49...


Ha, this must have been a :banghead::banghead::banghead: for you! Try controller 29. There is no controller 49.  
Controller *39*, which you pictured, is the is the right head light controller, which has been configured as *slave* of the left head light controller *#29* 


> Even during a standard maintenance my dealer was not able to perform the adaption


It is time that you ask them to pay you to work on your P. 



> I added some VCDS screen shots. Weird is that the dealer did not mention anything about the level sensor fault... but they do not know i have VCDS (and i better keep it that way)


You can clear the DTC's by going into controller #29, the master controller.



> what i do possibly wrong?


When I have time, I will get to that question later. Most important is that you need to do some checks here and there, and that controller #29 is the key component.

Willem


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## wouterjansen60 (Aug 27, 2011)

Hi Willem!

Thanks for your thoughts, i was assame really to ask more support to you as you fixed already so many items the dealer coulnt .

Speak to you soon, and look forward to the new Lowland meeting.

Regards,

Wouter


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## fofessor (Jun 30, 2012)

*headlight failure*

hi guys; 

i am a new to thread but always stay in tune of whats going on in the forums , i have 05 phaeton that i have owned for a year and i am very pleased...i recently had to replace both xennon bulbs and did so using the guide from this forum which was greatful...but now i have an issue that has stumped me...my right xennon hid stopped working and i cross checked the hid bulb with the left side and it worked ...could the ballast have failed on the right side and need to be replaced because i have checked all fuses none were blown...any suggestions and how difficult would it be to replace the ballast if need be.........


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## wouterjansen60 (Aug 27, 2011)

fofessor said:


> hi guys;
> 
> i am a new to thread but always stay in tune of whats going on in the forums , i have 05 phaeton that i have owned for a year and i am very pleased...i recently had to replace both xennon bulbs and did so using the guide from this forum which was greatful...but now i have an issue that has stumped me...my right xennon hid stopped working and i cross checked the hid bulb with the left side and it worked ...could the ballast have failed on the right side and need to be replaced because i have checked all fuses none were blown...any suggestions and how difficult would it be to replace the ballast if need be.........


 Hi, if you scroll down you will find most answers here. Incase of a V6 TDI 3.0, its surely a fender off story. Ballasts for the Phaeton are extremly expensive (and sensitive for wrong Xenons), each ballast cost around 530 Euros 3D0909157A/158A, cheaper replacements units could result in a MIL fault in dash. Good luck, 
wouter


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## fofessor (Jun 30, 2012)

wouterjansen60 said:


> Hi, if you scroll down you will find most answers here. Incase of a V6 TDI 3.0, its surely a fender off story. Ballasts for the Phaeton are extremly expensive (and sensitive for wrong Xenons), each ballast cost around 530 Euros 3D0909157A/158A, cheaper replacements units could result in a MIL fault in dash. Good luck,
> wouter


 thanks for the reply Wouter 
I have the V8 4.2l....and u stated it will be a fender off job thats unusual...i was thinking a bumper off job...but i will continue to search the forums for possible solutions and suggestions


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## WillemBal (Nov 20, 2010)

fofessor said:


> ...but i will continue to search the forums for possible solutions and suggestions


 Hi Fofessor, 

Did you check This post? 

Following the (entire, not just the first 3 steps) procedure post should fix your problem. 

Willem


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## wouterjansen60 (Aug 27, 2011)

fofessor said:


> thanks for the reply Wouter
> I have the V8 4.2l....and u stated it will be a fender off job thats unusual...i was thinking a bumper off job...but i will continue to search the forums for possible solutions and suggestions


 Hi fofessor, 
Yes youre right, i ment indeed the the front bumper plus all washer stuff.. Thx for the correction. 
Wouter


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## fofessor (Jun 30, 2012)

WillemBal said:


> Hi Fofessor,
> 
> Did you check This post?
> 
> ...


 Hello Willem 
I have not seen that post but i will give the recommended post a review and give it a try...thanks for the assistance and will post an update if resolved


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## PeterMills (Sep 1, 2006)

My headlights all work, but whilst ‘dipped’ beam is at the correct level, ‘main’ beam has dropped to within the dipped area. Has anyone got any idea why that would happen?

PETER M


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Peter,

Here's some thoughts, probably only of only academic interest;


Master headlight level controller software glitch (battery/PSU) - re-adapt
Master headlight level controller motor feedback broken and telling it it's too high, compensating by driving to lowest position, slave following - mechanical headlight problem
CAN-bus signal failed, motor gone to fail-safe position - loom or controller chip
Suspension controller software glitch (battery/PSU) - re-adapt
Pitch/wheel height sensor failure into suspension controller - unlikely, hardware

I hope someone can help with more practical advice. Most of these will give a scan DTC. 

Chris


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## PeterMills (Sep 1, 2006)

Chris,

Very useful leads to get me going, thanks. 

PETER M


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## PeterMills (Sep 1, 2006)

Well, I was lucky on this one (main beam dropped into dipped beam area), having feared worse the dealer said my headlights only needed adjustment which was done at nominal costs.

PETER M


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

> Well, I was lucky on this one (main beam dropped into dipped beam area), having feared worse the dealer said my headlights only needed adjustment which was done at nominal costs.
> 
> PETER M


Odd. Something must have changed, and Phaeton metal doesn't bend that easily.

Chris


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## PeterMills (Sep 1, 2006)

Chris,

I have not seen the construction of the lights so don't understand, as you do, what might have been the situation. 

I know that the change happened after a service and MOT earlier this year, and that the year before I had had the front end repaired after a small bump into a law wall - also that I do little night driving so the cause may have been sometime before I noticed.

IS it possible that when they did the repairs, something was left loose?

PETER M


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## jkuisma (Nov 23, 2009)

> I bought some fairly cheap Philips Xenstart D1S bulbs off ebay. They did not come in a Philips box so I was a bit curious to know if they were fakes.


A word of caution: I bought cheap Philips Xenstarts from ebay.de less than two years ago. They appeared to be original and came in white "bulk" package. Worked quite well for almost two years but recently, out of nowhere, both of them started to flicker and occasionally go out. This is WAY too short life for the bulbs. I suspect these must be from a discarded batch or something's really wrong with Philips' quality.

Fortunately I had nearly unused Osrams handy and replaced the bulbs yesterday. I am getting pretty experienced with the drill of R&R front bumper. This time it took exactly two hours to remove the bumper and headlights, replace xenon bulbs and put it all back together.

Jouko


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

It's not unusual to find truly forged product, by which I mean cheaply copied or reject items packaged and marked as something they are not. I had an 'interesting' experience once with ten thousand integrated circuits.

Chris


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## ttowles (Jan 18, 2012)

*Thank you*

I just replaced the Xenon passenger side and these instructions were perfect.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

I've just replaced my nearside bulb for the second time, which means it lasted about 5 years, roughly the same time as the original factory bulb. This time there was no flickering, the bulb changed to a pink/magenta colour which was quite pleasant to look at but didn't match the other side. I replaced it with another Osram/Sylvania Xenarc DS1 that I got on Ebay for $30 and had the usual difficulties with the airbox & bulb cover clips. During installation, I discovered more damage from the dealer, the rear headlamp mount is broken off, so now I know how they finally managed to get the bumper back on after 6 months of trying....


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## SolusNonSum (Feb 25, 2014)

invisiblewave said:


> ...I replaced it with another Osram/Sylvania Xenarc DS1 that I got on Ebay for $30...


Hi Martin,

Any chance you can post or PM me an eBay link to the bulbs you bought? Thanks.

- Solus -


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

I took a chance on one that was listed as new but in a damaged box. As far as I can tell, that's exactly what I got. This is the correct bulb, although it doesn't say whether it's new or not: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-HI...Parts_Accessories&hash=item338d91349d&vxp=mtr
There are plenty of new ones out there at reasonable prices too: http://www.ebay.com/itm/D1S-Philips...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac8ece7e5&vxp=mtr


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## SolusNonSum (Feb 25, 2014)

invisiblewave said:


> I took a chance on one that was listed as new but in a damaged box. As far as I can tell, that's exactly what I got. This is the correct bulb, although it doesn't say whether it's new or not: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-HI...Parts_Accessories&hash=item338d91349d&vxp=mtr
> There are plenty of new ones out there at reasonable prices too: http://www.ebay.com/itm/D1S-Philips...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac8ece7e5&vxp=mtr


Thank you Martin.

- Solus -


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## Nobbby (Jun 27, 2014)

Hi

Has anyone managed to change the headlight bulbs on a 3.0 TDi without removing the bumper? I can only find one post that mentions the 3.0 and that was a failed normal style bulb change that ended up with the bumper off.
If it's a bumper off then it's a trip to dealer as I don't have anywhere to do this type of work let alone the skill to do it. So I would like to be sure before I jump in to it.


Thanks

Paul

Edit: (£587.23 quoted for headlight, sidelight & main beam change. Guess I will be working some over time this month)


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## remrem (Jan 20, 2008)

*W12 Engine removed - good time to change bulbs again?*

Hello everyone,


My W12 engine is out getting a new alternator (a story for another time and another thread). This is not the first time the engine has been out, in fact this is the fourth time in my 7 years of ownership! The first was for a new starter, the second was for a transmission replacement, the third was to replace that new transmission about 100 miles later, when it proved to be a defective transmission and so it was replaced yet again, and that was just about 6 months ago. The last time it was out, I had everything else replaced that we could think of that might fail in the future due to age (various hoses, etc). However, we did not do the water pump, but we are replacing it this time, just in case.


Anyway, obviously this thread is about headlight bulb replacement. Using this thread's excellent instructions, my tech replaced my low beam bulbs about 4 years ago. They work fine, but frankly I've always wished they were brighter. I used the OEM Sylvania Osram D1S 35w bulbs (correct part, yes?). My question is this:
While my engine is out, I ASSUME that access to the bulbs will be extremely easy? If so, would it be silly for me to replace them again, so relatively soon, or should I just do it as a preventative measure? Furthermore, if the answer is yes, is there a brighter/better bulb that I could use (without having to change/modify any other parts) that would give me better illumination? Lastly, are there any other bulbs (high beams? DRL?, etc.), which might now also have similarly easy access while the engine is out that I could/should replace now too?


Thanks in advance for your input. Obviously, this is a time sensitive question, since my engine will be going back in early next week.



Best,
Ron M.


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## remrem (Jan 20, 2008)

Bump: Anybody? Sorry, but if anyone has any advice, I need it soon! Thanks again!

Best,
Ron


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## sgill (Jun 13, 2011)

*Headlight and running light bulb replacement instructions please 2004V8*

Could someone repost instructions with photos and specs for replacing regular headlamp and running lights. Problem is driver side, North America model. I cannot access any photos on the site. My garage says we need to remove front bumper but it seems that might not be necessary. If the bumper is taken off should I replace all the lights? Car has nearly 200km. If so is there a source for bulbs online to help save on cost, or is that a false economy? 
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Many thanks
Stephen


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Photos re-hosted where possible.

Chris


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

*Archival note:*

By way of a circular reference, see also this thread:
Headlight bulb replacement - how to get access to the bulb

There is a comment with some photos on the need for bumper removal or not in Michael's (PanEuropean's) post #15.

Chris


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## Phat One (Jul 10, 2009)

sgill said:


> Could someone repost instructions with photos and specs for replacing regular headlamp and running lights. Problem is driver side, North America model. I cannot access any photos on the site. My garage says we need to remove front bumper but it seems that might not be necessary. If the bumper is taken off should I replace all the lights? Car has nearly 200km. If so is there a source for bulbs online to help save on cost, or is that a false economy?
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
> Many thanks
> Stephen


No need to remove bumper on V8. Remove airbox then reach behind headlamp and there is a "gate" mechanism that hold the bulb in place. It's awkward to get to, worse if you have big hands.
Graham


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## tuut (Sep 13, 2016)

sgill said:


> Could someone repost instructions with photos and specs for replacing regular headlamp and running lights. Problem is driver side, North America model. I cannot access any photos on the site. My garage says we need to remove front bumper but it seems that might not be necessary. If the bumper is taken off should I replace all the lights? Car has nearly 200km. If so is there a source for bulbs online to help save on cost, or is that a false economy?
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
> Many thanks
> Stephen


Which engine?

I had to remove the front bumper to do it.
It was a pain in the ass (to do alone), especially releasing the bolts which keep te headlight units themselves in place.


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## Auzivision (Apr 19, 2007)

*Link to my HID install Pics*



sgill said:


> Could someone repost instructions with photos and specs for replacing regular headlamp and running lights. Problem is driver side, North America model. I cannot access any photos on the site. My garage says we need to remove front bumper but it seems that might not be necessary. If the bumper is taken off should I replace all the lights? Car has nearly 200km. If so is there a source for bulbs online to help save on cost, or is that a false economy?
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
> Many thanks
> Stephen


I believe the following link will take you to pictures I posted back in 2010 (Might be circular, a lot of that on this forum). 


http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ctions-TOC&p=68961707&viewfull=1#post68961707

I have done this for both W12 and V8. The air box is very tricky, but when rotated to the correct position is will make is way out. It takes a while with multiple attempts. There is definitely some Helen Keller work involved (by touch and feel, no visibility) in this project. I took pictures down inside and then thought through how if would feel. Then somehow managed to get my hands on the retaining clip that hold the bulb in place. Sometimes I've RR in 15 minutes and sometimes it takes 1.5 hours for one bulb.


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