# Go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask...



## jebglx (Jul 13, 2000)

*go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask...*

b/c you'd think people would make fun of you.
driving on a small 2 lane hwy the other day when i approached a small town. there was a big sign that said _Brake Retardation Prohibited_
brake retardation? what does that mean???
bill


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## arozanski (Apr 2, 2003)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (jebglx)*

Do you really not know, or are you being silly?








Brake Retardation = No Jake Brakes, although they could have come up with a better sign. Suprised they are not being sued for emotional distress by the ADA (Autos with Disabilties Association)


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## Vayhemar (Aug 18, 2004)

If you had the manufacturing/fabricating means available, could you put a turbo on any engine? Say, a 22RE? And I mean a big turbo, like something off a tractor trailer.


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## enriquejcu (Sep 16, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (Uranium235)*

here's one:
Do they really need to post "No Passing" signs on roads with a double yellow center line?


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## axe (Apr 29, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (enriquejcu)*

Why did the steering wheel replace the Tiller in early cars?


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## jebglx (Jul 13, 2000)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (Uranium235)*

uh...jake brakes







?
i really don't know








bill


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## texture (Dec 4, 2001)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (jebglx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jebglx* »_uh...jake brakes







?
i really don't know








bill

what the heck are jake brakes???


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## Harv (Oct 31, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (jebglx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jebglx* »_
i really don't know











highlight ^^^^


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## GTI 20v (Oct 12, 2000)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (texture)*


_Quote, originally posted by *texture* »_
what the heck are jake brakes???

Remember the old fitness series Body by Jake (tm)? It's like that.








-Nick


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## Parklife (Feb 23, 1999)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (jebglx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jebglx* »_uh...jake brakes







?
i really don't know








bill

Never fear, Mr. Cho: Google is your friend.

_Quote »_The Jake Brake takes its name from the manufacturer who invented the most common implementation of the technology, the Jacobs Company.
The Jake brake is an add-on engine brake for diesel engines. Big semi trailers, the 18 wheel trucks that move everything we use, can weigh as much as 80,000 pounds. Stopping them or slowing them down results in a great deal of wear on the brakes, which have to be replaced frequently. The Jake brake, as an engine system, causes no wear and tear and can help slow the truck before the wheel brakes need to be applied. Its primary use is on long downhill grades where the wheel brakes would otherwise have to be frequently pumped to keep the truck from gaining dangerous speed.
When the driver presses a button in the cab to activate the device, two things happen. First, the switch excites the engine brakes' solenoids. By itself, this would help only a little but it is necessary for the second step. What happens inside of the engine goes roughly like this.
As a four-stroke internal combustion engine, each piston in a diesel normally moves up and down twice in each cycle. For the nit-pickers out there, there are many two-stroke diesel trucks on the road as well. The process begins when the fuel and air valves are closed and the piston moves upward. This compresses the air in the cylinder to as much as 25 times atmospheric pressure. This is much higher compression than a gasoline engine (typically ten times atmospheric pressure) and results in the air getting very hot, about 900 degrees Fahrenheit. At this time fuel is sprayed into the superheated air which immediately begins burning. The second stroke, the power stroke, is the downward movement of the piston as fuel burns. The third stroke is an upward movement with the exhaust valve open to clear out the combustion products while the fourth stroke refills the cylinder with air.
The Jake brake completely changes all this, redefining what the valves do as each piston moves up and down. With the fuel flow terminated, the upward moving first stroke still compresses the air to very high pressure. As we said above, this transfers mechanical energy into heat as the air becomes highly compressed. If nothing else were done, most of this energy would be recovered, except for frictional losses, as the cylinder moved back down and the compressed air expanded. The Jake brake, however, opens the exhaust valve just as the air reaches maximum compression, dumping all of that energy in an almost instantaneous explosive release. The result is a very effective slowing of the vehicle as mechanical energy is converted to heat and then dumped. The Jake brake effectively transforms the internal combustion engine into an air compressor.
It has only one drawback: it is very noisy. You may have heard a semi use the Jake brake without realizing what it was. Sometimes when a truck is approaching a stop sign or stop light it suddenly emits a load roar, very much like a large lawnmower, for five or ten seconds. It is the noise that is causing many towns to ban the use of the Jake brake. Even though tests have shown the decibel level to be about as loud as a large lawnmower, at night or early morning the low frequencies seem to carry a long distance and are very noticeable.
Because it extends the life of wheel brakes and saves money, trucking companies generally lobby against the bans and some towns are compromising by allowing the Jake brake to be used in daylight hours. Yet more and more signs, with the words Jake Brake and the international symbol for "banned", are certain to appear. Since the primary use of the Jake brake is to slow the truck on long downhill grades, the technology will continue to be widely adopted for use on the open road.


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## mister_g60 (Feb 25, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (texture)*


_Quote, originally posted by *texture* »_what the heck are jake brakes???

ok, I know *what* these are and generally how they work, but can someone post up some pics and a general tech description of the jake brake/engine brake? I've always wanted to understand how it worked - though apparently I'm too lazy to actually search it out.


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## arozanski (Apr 2, 2003)

*Re: (Vayhemar)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Vayhemar* »_If you had the manufacturing/fabricating means available, could you put a turbo on any engine? Say, a 22RE? And I mean a big turbo, like something off a tractor trailer.

With enough time, money and skill, anything is possible.
That setup would have horrible lag, however. How about a triple turbo setup for your 22RE, a small one for the low end, transition to a medium one for the midrange, then feed into a rig turbo for pure silliness


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## thesteve (Feb 26, 2002)

*Re: (Uranium235)*

I could use a history lesson......
Why do we have steering wheels on the left hand side/Europe, etc. has it on the right......(who decided to differ and for what reason)........


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## Honda_Appliance (May 4, 2000)

*Re: (Uranium235)*

Jake brakes are only loud on trucks with modified exhaust systems.
If you ever see a sign that says "no jake brakes" take a photo and send it to Jacobs. It's a copywrite infringement and they don't like their company getting a bad reputation.


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## mister_g60 (Feb 25, 2002)

*Re: (AutobahnTDI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AutobahnTDI* »_If you ever see a sign that says "no jake brakes" take a photo and send it to Jacobs. It's a copywrite infringement and they don't like their company getting a bad reputation.

Most places just say something to the extent of "Use of engine brakes prohibited." I've never seen them use the actual term "Jake Brake" on a road sign.


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## enriquejcu (Sep 16, 2004)

*Re: (mister_g60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mister_g60* »_Most places just say something to the extent of "Use of engine brakes prohibited." I've never seen them use the actual term "Jake Brake" on a road sign.

There was one around my town, but it has been removed.


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## ATL_Av8r (Oct 17, 2002)

*Re:*

Will this rash ever go away???








Or did you mean automotive related questions?


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## Honda_Appliance (May 4, 2000)

*Re: (mister_g60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mister_g60* »_Most places just say something to the extent of "Use of engine brakes prohibited." I've never seen them use the actual term "Jake Brake" on a road sign.
]
I've seen quite a few.


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## mister_g60 (Feb 25, 2002)

*Re: (AutobahnTDI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AutobahnTDI* »_I've seen quite a few.

Ok ... most places in Virginia. Sheesh.


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## JUSTINCASE1021 (Apr 27, 2004)

*Re: (AutobahnTDI)*

What in gods name is a HAZMAT and why cant you take it into a tunnel???


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## ATL_Av8r (Oct 17, 2002)

*Re: (JUSTINCASE1021)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JUSTINCASE1021* »_What in gods name is a HAZMAT and why cant you take it into a tunnel???

HAZardous MATerial


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## enriquejcu (Sep 16, 2004)

*Re: (JUSTINCASE1021)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JUSTINCASE1021* »_What in gods name is a HAZMAT and why cant you take it into a tunnel???

hazardous materials


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## Honda_Appliance (May 4, 2000)

*Re: (enriquejcu)*


_Quote, originally posted by *enriquejcu* »_hazardous materials 

Yup. Prohibited in tunnels because of the fire threat they pose.


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## JUSTINCASE1021 (Apr 27, 2004)

*Re: (ATL_Av8r)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ATL_Av8r* »_
HAZardous MATerial

I knew that just testing you guys







....although me and my dad for a while when i was younger had no idea what it was....we thought the sign was talking about thosa luggage carriers on top of some cars


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## craigsaid (Sep 7, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (jebglx)*

Its not really a car question but i dont care, this has been driving me nuts:
What does it mean when someone says 'bump' on a thread? They usually do it when someone is selling something but they do it at other times too which is keeping me from figuring it out from the context.
Thanks a million
Craig


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## VegasJetta (Jan 26, 2003)

*Re: (AutobahnTDI)*

I got one..
around Vegas, on the highways near overpasses or underpasses, there are signs that say NO HC with the universal Crossout sign, circle with a line through it. 
Whiskey Tango Foxtrot?!


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## JUSTINCASE1021 (Apr 27, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (craigsaid)*


_Quote, originally posted by *craigsaid* »_Its not really a car question but i dont care, this has been driving me nuts:
What does it mean when someone says 'bump' on a thread? They usually do it when someone is selling something but they do it at other times too which is keeping me from figuring it out from the context.
Thanks a million
Craig

to *bump* the thread to the top


_Modified by JUSTINCASE1021 at 11:35 AM 10-7-2005_


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## enriquejcu (Sep 16, 2004)

*Re: (VegasJetta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VegasJetta* »_I got one..
around Vegas, on the highways near overpasses or underpasses, there are signs that say NO HC with the universal Crossout sign, circle with a line through it. 
Whiskey Tango Foxtrot?!

No helicopters is my guess


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## VdubTUNA (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (JUSTINCASE1021)*

what does IIRC stand for ::blush::


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## craigsaid (Sep 7, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (JUSTINCASE1021)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JUSTINCASE1021* »_to *bump* the thread to the top

_Modified by JUSTINCASE1021 at 11:34 AM 10-7-2005_

Thanks


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## Chmeeee (Jun 24, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (VdubTUNA)*

IIRC = If I Recall Correctly.


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## corpsedub (Aug 3, 2001)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (VdubTUNA)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VdubTUNA* »_what does IIRC stand for ::blush::









if i recall correctly


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## JUSTINCASE1021 (Apr 27, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (VdubTUNA)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VdubTUNA* »_what does IIRC stand for ::blush::









yeah i wanted to know that too....and dont feel bad...i just figured out what IMO was a few months ago


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## JUSTINCASE1021 (Apr 27, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (JUSTINCASE1021)*

why were some 2002 golfs called the "337" ???


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## nourdmrolnmt1 (Feb 27, 2004)

*Re: (VegasJetta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VegasJetta* »_I got one..
around Vegas, on the highways near overpasses or underpasses, there are signs that say NO HC with the universal Crossout sign, circle with a line through it. 
Whiskey Tango Foxtrot?!

is that that difficult???
no Hazardous Chemicals.
typically on a highway that goes through a city they will have this, the HC is in green IIRC


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## jebglx (Jul 13, 2000)

*Re: (nourdmrolnmt1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nourdmrolnmt1* »_
is that that difficult???
no Hazardous Chemicals.
typically on a highway that goes through a city they will have this, the HC is in green IIRC

oooohhhh...i guess there isn't a national term like HAZMAT
no helicopters








bill


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## LhW (Jun 26, 2001)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (jebglx)*

What does "JDM" stand for? i have been reading forums and such for years and I always wondered but I was too lazy to investigate. I have deduced that it must be "Japanese" something or another.


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## enriquejcu (Sep 16, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (LhW)*


_Quote, originally posted by *LhW* »_What does "JDM" stand for? i have been reading forums and such for years and I always wondered but I was too lazy to investigate. I have deduced that it must be "Japanese" something or another.

Japenese Domestic Market


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## jebglx (Jul 13, 2000)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (LhW)*

JDM= Japanese Domestic Market
*i only found out a couple of years ago right here on the tex








bill


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## Silly_me (Jul 26, 1999)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (jebglx)*

How do you move threads?


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## Kritter (Jun 7, 2001)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (JUSTINCASE1021)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JUSTINCASE1021* »_why were some 2002 golfs called the "337" ???

337 was the internal project code VW used for the MKI. the 2002/03 model was the anniversary edition of the GTI in NA, thus the 337 designation.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

*Re: (thesteve)*


_Quote, originally posted by *thesteve* »_I could use a history lesson......
Why do we have steering wheels on the left hand side/Europe, etc. has it on the right......(who decided to differ and for what reason)........









England has them on the right. Europe has them on the left. 
The English Army had their horsement pass people on the left side of the road so that thier sword-hand was free (just incase). Napolean (so the story goes) didn't like to do anything the way that the British did, so he changed it.
The US probably would have been right-hand drive, but the Model T wouldn't work with rhd, so Henry Ford made it left hand drive. Since the 'T' was the standard for the U.S., everyone else adopted lhd!
Ta-Da!
*These are stories as I have heard them and I take no responsibility for their accuracy!


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## WannaCorrado (Apr 30, 2000)

*Re: (Air and water do mix)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Air and water do mix* »_
England has them on the right. Europe has them on the left. 
The English Army had their horsement pass people on the left side of the road so that thier sword-hand was free (just incase). Napolean (so the story goes) didn't like to do anything the way that the British did, so he changed it.
The US probably would have been right-hand drive, but the Model T wouldn't work with rhd, so Henry Ford made it left hand drive. Since the 'T' was the standard for the U.S., everyone else adopted lhd!
Ta-Da!
*These are stories as I have heard them and I take no responsibility for their accuracy!

and to add to this: Places throughout the world with British influence at one point or another will most likely have right hand drive cars, while the other places will have LHD. Not sure how Japan got their RHD standards though...


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## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

*Re: (WannaCorrado)*









"Why would you buy a pickup and then put one of those cap things over the back end? Don't you just end up with a really ugly station wagon?"


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

*Re: (atomicalex)*


_Quote, originally posted by *atomicalex* »_"Why would you buy a pickup and then put one of those cap things over the back end? Don't you just end up with a really ugly station wagon?"

No, you end-up with a station wagon that's hard to park, gets terrible mileage and is almost impossible to see out of!


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## mister_g60 (Feb 25, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (jebglx)*

What are the MkI, MkII, MkII, etc. equivilents for Audis? Here, I'll list the ones I can think of so you can just fill in the blank.
UR-Q
4000
5000
100
200
V8Q
Coupe Q
A4 (first and second gen)
A6 (first, second and third gen)
A8 (ditto)
This has been bothering me for some time now.


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## thesteve (Feb 26, 2002)

*Re: (Air and water do mix)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Air and water do mix* »_
England has them on the right. Europe has them on the left. 
The English Army had their horsement pass people on the left side .........
Ta-Da!


That's actually a much more interesting answer than I was anticipating........I figured it involved a pissing contest somewhere down the line though...... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (mister_g60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mister_g60* »_What are the MkI, MkII, MkII, etc. equivilents for Audis? Here, I'll list the ones I can think of so you can just fill in the blank.
UR-Q
4000
5000
100
200
V8Q
Coupe Q
A4 (first and second gen)
A6 (first, second and third gen)
A8 (ditto)
This has been bothering me for some time now.

There is none. Audi was bought by VW to get the Mk 1 golf (and to a lesser extent, the K70). Sort of a canary swallowing a cat scenario. Until the Audi A3 came along, there was no crossover. I'm pretty sure about this, though there could be a model or two in Europe that I'm not familiar with. Anyone? Anyone??


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## enriquejcu (Sep 16, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (mister_g60)*

How does BMW decide their model designation numbers? E30...etc?


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## false_vapor (Aug 2, 2002)

*Re: (thesteve)*


_Quote, originally posted by *thesteve* »_I could use a history lesson......
Why do we have steering wheels on the left hand side/Europe, etc. has it on the right......(who decided to differ and for what reason)........









Wow. May be there's a geography lesson in order. Europe is several times bigger than GB. GB doesn't = europe same as USA doesn't = world. They don't even want to be considered as part of europe, but want to have EU capital.


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## axe (Apr 29, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (JUSTINCASE1021)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JUSTINCASE1021* »_to *bump* the thread to the top

_Modified by JUSTINCASE1021 at 11:35 AM 10-7-2005_

Also "bring up my post"

_Quote, originally posted by *Air and water do mix* »_There is none. Audi was bought by VW to get the Mk 1 golf (and to a lesser extent, the K70). Sort of a canary swallowing a cat scenario. Until the Audi A3 came along, there was no crossover. I'm pretty sure about this, though there could be a model or two in Europe that I'm not familiar with. Anyone? Anyone??

The only "crossovers" I know of are the B5 A4 / Passat and the K70.


_Modified by axe at 10:06 AM 10-7-2005_


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## CheddaJetta (Jan 14, 2004)

*Re: (nourdmrolnmt1)*

If 2 cars are traveling on I-90 towards each other and 1 car is traveling at 65mph and the other at 75 mph, when will they pass each other supposing that they started 300 miles apart?


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## mister_g60 (Feb 25, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (Air and water do mix)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Air and water do mix* »_There is none. Audi was bought by VW to get the Mk 1 golf (and to a lesser extent, the K70). Sort of a canary swallowing a cat scenario. Until the Audi A3 came along, there was no crossover. I'm pretty sure about this, though there could be a model or two in Europe that I'm not familiar with. Anyone? Anyone??

Huh?? So by "crossover" you mean shared the same chassis/platform, right? Ok, let me clarify. I'm not asking if there were any crossovers, but what are the chassis/body/model/whatever designations for the various Audi models. Are you saying there aren't any? So as in MkI and MkII for Volkswagen E36, E39, etc. for BMW ... such a system doesn't exist for Audi?







No way.


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## BlueNDGold (Jun 20, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (axe)*

How does the automatic gear shift work?
To clarify, I mean mechanically, how does it know when to shift into a different gear?


_Modified by BlueNDGold at 10:24 AM 10-7-2005_


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## jebglx (Jul 13, 2000)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (mister_g60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mister_g60* »_ So as in MkI and MkII for Volkswagen E36, E39, etc. for BMW ... such a system doesn't exist for Audi?







No way.

actually it's A1-5, B1-6 etc for VW not MK








bill


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## mister_g60 (Feb 25, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (jebglx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jebglx* »_actually it's A1-5, B1-6 etc for VW not MK









Right - it's just mildly confusing/annoying at times when you say A3 and A4 because of Audi.


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## G-rocco (Sep 11, 2004)

Why are import tuner exhausts so "farty" sounding, while euro tuner are deeper and burble-y.. (with the 4cyl. ones)??


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## Golgo-13 (Aug 20, 2003)

*Re: (G-rocco)*

Why did Audi and VW change their grill to look so $hitty?
I know the heritage behind the grill, but it looks like bunk.
*NOT GOOD LOOKING*








*GOOD LOOKING*










_Modified by Golgo-13 at 10:25 AM 10-7-2005_


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## jebglx (Jul 13, 2000)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (mister_g60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mister_g60* »_
Right - it's just mildly confusing/annoying at times when you say A3 and A4 because of Audi.









yes it is, isn't it















just busting your bawls...
damn audi...why couldn't they have stuck to numbers? oh yeah...
_what year & model of your car?
it's an '89 90.
what are you? some kinda wiseass?!?!?!_
bill


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## GTS2nd20l (Jun 18, 2004)

*Re: (AutobahnTDI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AutobahnTDI* »_*Jake brakes are only loud on trucks with modified exhaust systems.*
If you ever see a sign that says "no jake brakes" take a photo and send it to Jacobs. It's a copywrite infringement and they don't like their company getting a bad reputation.


Wronge.
There on just about any HD Truck engine 95+.
Seriously, take the head off a Cummins ISX......Hey look! A Jake Brake! 
Some JBs come intergrated in the Feedback systems of recent BIg Diesles. 
It basically works on the fact its just another vavle. Driver hits switch, vavle opens in the head, on any Stroke on all cylinders and just dumps it all out the exhuast.
Cutting power, making it easier to brake those big shats.


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## Big M (Feb 10, 2002)

How come when there are 4 stop signs at an intersection, I often see stop signs that say "All Way" right under them, yet when there are only 2 stop signs, I never see a "Caution: Cross Traffic has no Stop Sign" or something like that?
Seems it would be a lot more useful to know that the other guys DON'T have stop signs.


_Modified by Big M at 1:52 PM 10-7-2005_


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## VT1.8T (Jul 28, 2003)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (enriquejcu)*


_Quote, originally posted by *enriquejcu* »_here's one:
Do they really need to post "No Passing" signs on roads with a double yellow center line?

In Vermont yes, because passing on a double solid line is LEGAL as long as you are not in a "No Passing" zone. Knowing this comes in handy this time of year as the leaf-peepers are cruising around well below the speed limit.


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## Big M (Feb 10, 2002)

And another thing...
Engine braking in a regular car: I heard here that you actually burn less gas when engine braking (even if your RPMs start at, say, 3500, and wind down) than you would if you just coast in neutral with the engine idling.
True or false? Brief explanation, please?


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## Honda_Appliance (May 4, 2000)

*Re: (GTS2nd20l)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GTS2nd20l* »_Wronge.
There on just about any HD Truck engine 95+.
Seriously, take the head off a Cummins ISX......Hey look! A Jake Brake! 


Read what I wrote again. I meant that they are only obnoxiously loud on engines with modified exhaust systems. You will barely notice a functioning Jake on an engine with an unmodified exhaust.
I know ISXs have Jakes. It's funny you should say that because I have taken the the head off an ISX plenty of times. I used to work in the plant that makes them


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## SnareTan (Aug 15, 2005)

*Re: (CheddaJetta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CheddaJetta* »_If 2 cars are traveling on I-90 towards each other and 1 car is traveling at 65mph and the other at 75 mph, when will they pass each other supposing that they started 300 miles apart?
















To solve this you have to calculate the combined speed of both vehicles. That's 130mph. Now, the question that you are asking is how long does it take to travel 300 miles at this speed. You know that it takes at least 2 hours since that will put you at mile 260. 
Now you have to calculate how many minutes it will take to go 40 miles at 130mph. First lets divide 130mph to figure out how fast that is per minute. 130/60=2.1667 miles per minute. Now divide the remaining 40 miles by the 2.16. 40/2.1667 = 18.46 minutes. So now we know that is' 2 hours, 18 minutes.
Of course .46 minutes is under 30 seconds, but lets do the math anyway. There are 60 seconds in a minute, and you want to know how many is .46 of them. 60*.47=27.6
So, the two cars will pass each other in 2 hours, 18 minutes and 27.6 seconds.

Tan


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## deevubfreak (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: (Golgo-13)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Golgo-13* »_Why did Audi and VW change their grill to look so $hitty?
I know the heritage behind the grill, but it looks like bunk.
*NOT GOOD LOOKING*








*GOOD LOOKING*









_Modified by Golgo-13 at 10:25 AM 10-7-2005_

I have been wondering this myself until today. Someone in the mk4 forum fabbed up a front mount intercooler set up using the core from a new GLI. The new intercooler is HUGE, like the size of a radiator. And from the looks of the venting, its to get air to the intercooler. But thats just my take on it. Plus i think vag wanted to make the cars look more like japanese cars that have all the ugly chrome on the front to attract more people away from nissan and honda.


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## IHateSpeedBumps (Feb 20, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (BlueNDGold)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BlueNDGold* »_How does the automatic gear shift work?
To clarify, I mean mechanically, how does it know when to shift into a different gear?

_Modified by BlueNDGold at 10:24 AM 10-7-2005_

speed sensors








go here for more info http://auto.howstuffworks.com/....htm


----------



## FLank_Sinatra (Jan 25, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (enriquejcu)*


_Quote, originally posted by *enriquejcu* »_here's one:
Do they really need to post "No Passing" signs on roads with a double yellow center line?









those are probably for the SUV driving people who don't use their turn signals, they need all the help they can get. Maybe the can have someone coaching them on their cell phone they are on all the time.


----------



## thesteve (Feb 26, 2002)

*Re: (false_vapor)*


_Quote, originally posted by *false_vapor* »_
Wow. May be there's a geography lesson in order. Europe is several times bigger than GB. GB doesn't = europe same as USA doesn't = world. They don't even want to be considered as part of europe, but want to have EU capital.

Yeah, yeah.........I decided somewhere down the lines that even a remote knowledge in geography wouldn't be paying _my_ bills.....and I'm doing just fine now, thanks.........








Figured if I made it vague enough, I'd be less exposed to any ball-busting.......guess not...... should have just said "them -vs- us".......


----------



## FLank_Sinatra (Jan 25, 2004)

*Re: (mister_g60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mister_g60* »_
Most places just say something to the extent of "Use of engine brakes prohibited." I've never seen them use the actual term "Jake Brake" on a road sign.

there's one in a town about 22 minutes from here. I'll have to take a picture of it and send it in.


----------



## Sunil (Sep 24, 1999)

*Re: (thesteve)*

Will double-clutching make your synchros last longer?
Also, does putting the car in gear when parking cause wear on any transmission parts (bushings...or something...I'm ignint).


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (mister_g60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mister_g60* »_
Huh?? So by "crossover" you mean shared the same chassis/platform, right? Ok, let me clarify. I'm not asking if there were any crossovers, but what are the chassis/body/model/whatever designations for the various Audi models. Are you saying there aren't any? So as in MkI and MkII for Volkswagen E36, E39, etc. for BMW ... such a system doesn't exist for Audi?







No way.

Ah, gotcha. I didn't quite get the question. As far as Audi model designations, I'm not quite as up on them. They use the 'B' chassis much of the time. The Audi Fox was the same as the VW Dasher/B1 Passat. The Quantum/B2 Passat was the same as the Audi 80/90 (I think). As far as Audi's 100 series cars, I.E. 100 LS, 100, 5000... I'm not as sure. Were they 'C' Cars? I think they were, but...


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

*Re: (Big M)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Big M* »_How come when there are 4 stop signs at an intersection, I often see stop signs that say "All Way" right under them, yet when there are only 2 stop signs, I never see a "Caution: Cross Traffic has no Stop Sign" or something like that?
Seems it would be a lot more useful to know that the other guys DON'T have stop signs.

I agree. In Germany, there's a sign called 'Priority Road' If your road has it, you don't have to stop. If your road doesn't have it, you're suppposed to stop. The nice thing is that if the sign is missing, you stop instead of cruising through the intersection. Of course, they use 'Stop' signs as well. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (enriquejcu)*


_Quote, originally posted by *enriquejcu* »_here's one:
Do they really need to post "No Passing" signs on roads with a double yellow center line?

think about all the people on roads who you yell "idiot" to. thats why. A lot of drivers are just dumb.


----------



## Chmeeee (Jun 24, 2002)

*Re: (Big M)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Big M* »_How come when there are 4 stop signs at an intersection, I often see stop signs that say "All Way" right under them, yet when there are only 2 stop signs, I never see a "Caution: Cross Traffic has no Stop Sign" or something like that?
Seems it would be a lot more useful to know that the other guys DON'T have stop signs.

Basically you should assume that its not an all way stop unless you see a sign indicating as such. Besides, its almost always obvious when its a two way stop, i.e. local street crossing major collector road. 
They do have a sign exactly as you described for unusual cases where it seems like there is an all way stop but there isn't (i.e. three out of four approaches have stop). Traffic from left does not stop, traffic from right does not stop, opposing vehicles do not stop. (I actually had to find such a sign so I could recommend it in a parking lot design).

_Quote, originally posted by *Big M* »_And another thing...
Engine braking in a regular car: I heard here that you actually burn less gas when engine braking (even if your RPMs start at, say, 3500, and wind down) than you would if you just coast in neutral with the engine idling.
True or false? Brief explanation, please?

It is true. When you are coasting in gear, the engine doesn't need fuel to keep spinning it, the car momentum does that. Therefore it would be a waste of fuel to send fuel to the injectors. People over at TDI Club tested this by driving the car with a laptop connected to the computer. Coasting in gear, the injection quantity was zero. I personally tested it by shutting off the car going down a long, straight, empty hill. Nothing changed when I shut it off or turned it back on. Sound stayed the same, deceleration rate stayed the same, etc.


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (enriquejcu)*


_Quote, originally posted by *enriquejcu* »_here's one:
Do they really need to post "No Passing" signs on roads with a double yellow center line?

Because there are so many stupid people out there... meaning not here in the Car Lounge of course!


----------



## Armed Escort (Jul 30, 2003)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (Air and water do mix)*

What the hell is "Symmetrical AWD", anyway?


----------



## jackwrx (Jan 14, 2004)

If you're driving at 35 mph in 4th gear at 2500 rpm are you getting the same mileage as driving 45 mph in 5th gear at 2500 rpm?


----------



## N01VR6 Pilot (Jun 27, 2005)

*Re: (G-rocco)*


_Quote, originally posted by *G-rocco* »_Why are import tuner exhausts so "farty" sounding, while euro tuner are deeper and burble-y.. (with the 4cyl. ones)??

IMO, There are alot more "crappy" companies that provide "crappy" products for "import tuners". Reason: there are A LOT more of them then compared to "euro tuners". Luckly, most of the companies for "euro tuners" are good-quality products. If you place a good quality product on a "import tuner" it'll sound great, not "farty". 
New question: Why is the term "import tuners" directed only towards japanese made cars? "Import" to me means coming from a different country. I know it'll never change, but I'm curious how it all started.


----------



## LiGuangming1981 (Jun 22, 2016)

*Re: (jackwrx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jackwrx* »_If you're driving at 35 mph in 4th gear at 2500 rpm are you getting the same mileage as driving 45 mph in 5th gear at 2500 rpm?

I'll take a gander at this one and say that you'll get better mileage at 35mph, all else being equal, because the wind resistance will be lower at lower speed than it is at higher speed. So the engine doesn't have to overcome as much opposing force, and more energy goes directly to pushing the car forward, reducing fuel consumption.


----------



## Silly_me (Jul 26, 1999)

*Re: (Sunil)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Sunil* »_Will double-clutching make your synchros last longer?

Yes, honest to god double de-clutching will make the synchros last longer as you are doing their job for them.

_Quote »_Also, does putting the car in gear when parking cause wear on any transmission parts (bushings...or something...I'm ignint).

Eventually, but so does sitting in your car


----------



## NM_GTI_VR6 (Jul 12, 2002)

*Re: (nourdmrolnmt1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nourdmrolnmt1* »_
is that that difficult???
no Hazardous Chemicals.
typically on a highway that goes through a city they will have this, the HC is in green IIRC

Is that what the single small green light on the trailer of semi also stands for? That they are carrying HCs? I noticed this on the highway one night on the way back from El Paso on I10.


----------



## Honda_Appliance (May 4, 2000)

*Re: (NM_GTI_VR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NM_GTI_VR6* »_Is that what the single small green light on the trailer of semi also stands for? That they are carrying HCs? I noticed this on the highway one night on the way back from El Paso on I10.

I think the colored lights you see on some trailers is a status light for the refrigeration unit. It lets the operator know it is functioning properly and the cargo he is hauling won't spoil. He can check it simply by looking in the rear view mirror and see that it's on.


----------



## petesell (May 7, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (jebglx)*

"cab forward" design. wtf? where else would the cab be facing?


----------



## 1.8t man (Nov 21, 2001)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (petesell)*

Why doesn't vw ever bring a 4 motion plain and simple 1.8t gti/jetta here..
ohh yeah also what the hell is wrong with danny bonaduchi have you seen his reality show jesus christ..










_Modified by 1.8t man at 3:46 PM 10-7-2005_


----------



## slugmobile (Jun 20, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (petesell)*

AFAIK, 
Cab forward means the drivers area of the vehicle sits on top or in front of the front wheels. See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/101_Forward_Control
I've got one:
I see little rectnagular white signs that say "No trucks with R permits" all the time. I assumed that R = Restricted. But what would qualify for an R permit?


----------



## theblur (Sep 14, 2000)

*Re: (GTS2nd20l)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GTS2nd20l* »_

It basically works on the fact its just another vavle. Driver hits switch, vavle opens in the head, on any Stroke on all cylinders and just dumps it all out the exhuast.
Cutting power, making it easier to brake those big shats.

are you sure that's how jake brakes work? if a valve opens on all strokes, there would be no compression, thus no compression braking. i was under the impression that jake brakes altered the opening of the exhaust valves, keeping them closed longer, thus increasing compression braking. anyone know for sure?


----------



## VW_Squiner (Aug 28, 2002)

*Re: (jackwrx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jackwrx* »_If you're driving at 35 mph in 4th gear at 2500 rpm are you getting the same mileage as driving 45 mph in 5th gear at 2500 rpm?

No


----------



## theblur (Sep 14, 2000)

*Re: (theblur)*

nevermind! i was wrong, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jake_brake


----------



## [email protected] (Nov 30, 1999)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (petesell)*


_Quote, originally posted by *petesell* »_"cab forward" design. wtf? where else would the cab be facing?

It's more about the proportions than anything else. Cabforward cars generally have a short hood, and a realtively short front overhang. Ergo, the "cab" is placed "forward".


----------



## TabulaVicious (Sep 15, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (mister_g60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mister_g60* »_What are the MkI, MkII, MkII, etc. equivilents for Audis? Here, I'll list the ones I can think of so you can just fill in the blank.
UR-Q
4000
5000
100
200
V8Q
Coupe Q
A4 (first and second gen)
A6 (first, second and third gen)
A8 (ditto)
This has been bothering me for some time now.

Small cars:
1984-1987 (91*) 4000, urQ = Typ85 *urQ was produced till 1991
1988-1992 80/90/Coupe quattro = Typ89
1993-1997 90/Cabrio = B4 (This is where it starts getting easier)
1996-2002 A4/S4 = B5
Medium cars:
1983-1991 5000/100/200 = Typ44
1992-1997 100/A6/S4/S6 = C4
1998-2004 A6/S6/RS6 = C5
Large cars:
1989-1994 V8 quattro = D1
1996-2002? A8/S8 = D2
2003-Current = D3
TT:
Not really an Audi.


----------



## Sunil (Sep 24, 1999)

*Re: (Air and water do mix)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Air and water do mix* »_I agree. In Germany, there's a sign called 'Priority Road' If your road has it, you don't have to stop. If your road doesn't have it, you're suppposed to stop. The nice thing is that if the sign is missing, you stop instead of cruising through the intersection. Of course, they use 'Stop' signs as well. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Yeah, but the f'd up thing is when there is no "priority road" sign, and the only way to tell that you are on the "priority road" is that you have to spot the BACK OF THE YIELD SIGN at the other corners!!
Agh this pisses me off!


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

*Re: (Sunil)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Sunil* »_Will double-clutching make your synchros last longer?
Also, does putting the car in gear when parking cause wear on any transmission parts (bushings...or something...I'm ignint).

Don't actually know about that, but shifting the car while the engine isn't running is really bad for the gears themselves. The synchros just aren't working when they're not spinning. You can actually chip a bit of metal off of the teeth of the gears when they're not spinning. Not much damage, but after 5 years or so of this...
I know that putting a car in gear when it's stopped puts a load on the shaft, bearings etc, but I don't think it does any real damage to the trans.


----------



## vwgtirob (Aug 16, 2001)

*Re: (Air and water do mix)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Air and water do mix* »_Don't actually know about that, but shifting the car while the engine isn't running is really bad for the gears themselves. The synchros just aren't working when they're not spinning. You can actually chip a bit of metal off of the teeth of the gears when they're not spinning. Not much damage, but after 5 years or so of this...

The gears are always engaged in the transmission. The shifter only controls which gears have the dogs engaged, locking the gear to the shaft. The synchros gradually engage first before the dogs engage, getting the shaft up to speed first so they don't grind.


----------



## WOT (Oct 19, 2003)

*Re: (Vayhemar)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Vayhemar* »_If you had the manufacturing/fabricating means available, could you put a turbo on any engine? Say, a 22RE? And I mean a big turbo, like something off a tractor trailer.
considering that there was a 22r with a turbo on it stock, yes you could.
a 2.4L would have to be spinning pretty fast to spool a semi truck turbo but yeah anythings possible.
how does vtec work?


----------



## Harrison. (May 27, 2003)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (Uranium235)*

Oops


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

*Re: (The Chemist)*


_Quote, originally posted by *The Chemist* »_
I'll take a gander at this one and say that you'll get better mileage at 35mph, all else being equal, because the wind resistance will be lower at lower speed than it is at higher speed. So the engine doesn't have to overcome as much opposing force, and more energy goes directly to pushing the car forward, reducing fuel consumption. 

Errrrrrrrrrrrmmmmmmmmmm, no. Aerodynamics really don't enter into the big picture 'til about 60mph (100 kph). The faster you go, the more drag. It's not even, either. If you require 30hp to go 60 mph, you'll need alot more than 60hp to go 120mph.
You want the engine to spin as few times as possible for a given length of distance travelled. If the pistons go up and down 1000X in 100 ft, you'll use x amount of fuel, if you're in the next gear, they'll only reciprocate 875X in 100 ft. (yes, I know the numbers are *way* off, but it's just an example.) Of course, if you're out of the engine's comfortable range of operation, say 600 rpm in 5th gear, you'll get lousy mileage because the engine isn't designed to be efficient at those revs.


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

*Re: (vwgtirob)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwgtirob* »_
The gears are always engaged in the transmission. The shifter only controls which gears have the dogs engaged, locking the gear to the shaft. The synchros gradually engage first before the dogs engage, getting the shaft up to speed first so they don't grind.

Yow! Is that why VW has problems with their early water-cooled trannys? The air-cooled crowd actually welds the 3rd and 4th gears to the shafts for drag-racing purposes. I'm not sure about the 1st & 2nd gears, as I'm not a transmission builder by any means. I'll have those done for me and I'll stick to nice, simple engines. They're more fun anyway!


----------



## Danza (Jun 29, 2004)

*Re: (WOT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WOT* »_
how does vtec work?









In a vtec head (I'll describe DOHC vtec since that's what I have and am familiar with) there are three "followers" for every two valves. Two smaller ones on the outside and a larger on in the middle. At low rpm's, the valves are timed with the outer two valve rockers. 
When the engine reaches a certain rpm, the oil pressure forces a locking pin to lock the middle cam follower to the two outside rockers. Because the middle cam lobe is larger than the outside, it determines the valve timing. And there you have it, variable valve timing and lift electronic control.
Hope that helps


----------



## Jim85 (Nov 22, 2004)

*Re: (01Geezer)*

Why cant penguins fly?


----------



## nyyankee (Dec 1, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (Armed Escort)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Armed Escort* »_What the hell is "Symmetrical AWD", anyway?

^^^^^^^^^^this is the all wheel drive on Subaru's^^^^^^^^^

What does "IMO" mean
i just found out what LMAO, ROTFLMAF, and LMFAO mean


----------



## jebglx (Jul 13, 2000)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (nyyankee)*

IMO- in my opinion
IMHO- in my honest opinion
these are supposed to be car questions







!!!
bill


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## 97jetta2.8 (Oct 6, 2004)

God Im scared to ask put what is Double-Clutching ?


----------



## theblur (Sep 14, 2000)

*Re: (97jetta2.8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *97jetta2.8* »_God Im scared to ask put what is Double-Clutching ?

if you want to downshift from 4th to 3rd:
clutch in, select neutral, clutch out, blip throttle, clutch in, select third, clutch out. waste of time if you are driving a car with syncro's. (all modern cars.)


----------



## JUSTINCASE1021 (Apr 27, 2004)

*Re: (theblur)*

when will cars come with computers in them _and no i'm not talking about the ecu_....
as small and cheap as most laptops are...it couldnt be that hard to have a factory carputer...
*subtract the price of a sunroom .... add a carputer 
*cold weather package...well if you live in arizona just give em a carputer
is it because its one more distraction that a car company doesnt want to held responsible for?
am I way off base???


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## okanTDI (Nov 26, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (jebglx)*

jake brake = engine brake. for big rigs you flip a switch and whenever you let go of the gas the truck brakes hard by means of engine


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## okanTDI (Nov 26, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (Armed Escort)*

all drive shafts are even from the differential maybe?


----------



## VarianceVQ (Jun 26, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (okanTDI)*

I got some diesel-related ?s:
What makes diesels so torquey compared to comparable gas engines?
Do all diesels have turbos and if so, why?


----------



## Honda_Appliance (May 4, 2000)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (VarianceJ30)*


----------



## Dekz (Jul 21, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (jebglx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jebglx* »_IMHO- in my honest opinion 

It's actually _humble _opinion.
I can't think of a car question because I know everything


----------



## Mk3 Mayhem (May 21, 2002)

*Re: (thesteve)*

What does "woot" stand for or mean??


----------



## munkey (Apr 30, 2004)

*Re: (Mk3 Mayhem)*

ooh i have a few, 
what is threshold braking, and what causes brake fade? 
when you mis-shift, and grind gears. is it actually two gears of different ratios grinding each other, eating away at the teeth? or is it something else?
and finally, what excatly are the components in a transmission? i know there's the fly wheel, then comes the clutch, then...something called the input shaft? i know what the flywheel and clutch does, but i'm not too sure what the other components do.




_Modified by munkey at 6:34 PM 10-7-2005_


----------



## sweatyworker (May 4, 2005)

*Re: (Mk3 Mayhem)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Mk3 Mayhem* »_What does "woot" stand for or mean??

I think it's spelt w00t. It comes from online computer gaming (Counter Strike probably) and is an expression of joy, Kind of like Woo Hoo








From Wikipedia:
"w00t could also have originated from the acronym of the phrase "We Owned the Other Team" from the game Counter-Strike."


----------



## Goldice (May 3, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (VarianceJ30)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VarianceJ30* »_
Do all diesels have turbos and if so, why?

No, not all diesels have turbochargers. 
My guess is the reason Turbo Diesels are so popular is because the amount of power (read torque) down low allows the turbo to spool faster which creats a better horsepower band.


----------



## matches (Aug 18, 2005)

*Re: (deevubfreak)*


_Quote, originally posted by *deevubfreak* »_
I have been wondering this myself until today. Someone in the mk4 forum fabbed up a front mount intercooler set up using the core from a new GLI. The new intercooler is HUGE, like the size of a radiator. And from the looks of the venting, its to get air to the intercooler. But thats just my take on it. Plus i think vag wanted to make the cars look more like japanese cars that have all the ugly chrome on the front to attract more people away from nissan and honda.

Well, first, Honda doesn't seem to be into the heavy front chrome as of... ever. And I can understand your reasoning about the intercooler and venting, but that's saying there's no other solution to this problem? Let's take the old new A8 and the new new A8 for example:
















Two different designs, but the venting is pretty much consistent. VW and Audi, at pretty much the same time, decided it was important for the upper and lower grilles to physically connect. Personally I have *always* preferred the implied continuity from the previous Audis. It was kind of an inside thing that only people who were really paying attention noticed, and with these new models they just blabbed it to everybody.


----------



## dreidreisieben (Nov 20, 2002)

*Re: (matches)*

When I turn on the heater in my car, does the the warm air come from the engine, or is there an actual electrical heater in my car?


----------



## dreidreisieben (Nov 20, 2002)

*Re: (dreidreisieben)*

When my car is turned off and I sit in it shifting my gearbox I feel no difference in the way the gears engage between depressing the clutch and not depressing it. Why is that?


----------



## gtivr4 (Sep 22, 2000)

*Re: (munkey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *munkey* »_what is threshold braking, and what causes brake fade? 

Threshold braking is simply braking as hard as possible.
Brake fade is caused by the brakes having too much heat in them, at which point the pads are no longer in their optimal operating range and start losing effectiveness. Generally drums do this quicker (thus not being desirable on performance cars). Different pads will affect this more than anything, but larger/better rotors have an affect as well.

Try http://www.howstuffworks.com for good overviews of engines/transmissions
Oh and for those curious about the LHD/RHD issue: 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rules_of_the_road


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## gtivr4 (Sep 22, 2000)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (okanTDI)*

This is a question for the women:
If a sports car with a long hood is supposed to be a falic symbol and for men who are 'compensating' for a small 'member', then why aren't women attracted to men in say a classic Mini, which would logically be the opposite?
You would think women would be attracted to men who are sure of themselves and aren't showing off or compensating, but that never seems to be the case.


----------



## texroll (Apr 26, 2004)

does my 02 vw 337 have a solid rear axle or independent rear axles


----------



## 997Timbo (May 21, 2001)

*Re: (dreidreisieben)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dreidreisieben* »_When I turn on the heater in my car, does the the warm air come from the engine, or is there an actual electrical heater in my car?

In most cars, as far as I know, there is a connecting hose that goes from the engine to a *heater core* and back. Basically, coolant/water from the engine flows into the heater core and back out. The heater core is just a little radiator, so your HVAC fan blows air over the heater core's fins and heat goes into the air through conduction. 
This is why you should turn the heat on if your car is getting close to overheating. The heater acts as a second radiator, helping the engine dump heat faster.


----------



## 997Timbo (May 21, 2001)

*Re: (gtivr4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtivr4* »_Threshold braking is simply braking as hard as possible.

This is achieved by pressing the pedal as far as possible _without_ locking up the brakes. Once you lock up the brakes and the car starts to slide, you have lost the ability to steer. When done properly, threshold braking is more effective than ABS, it just requires some practice and familiarity with your car.


----------



## gtivr4 (Sep 22, 2000)

*Re: (nsadhal)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nsadhal* »_When done properly, threshold braking is more effective than ABS, it just requires some practice and familiarity with your car. 

Actualy threshold braking applies to both ABS and non ABS cars.


----------



## Sunil (Sep 24, 1999)

*Re: (texroll)*


_Quote, originally posted by *texroll* »_does my 02 vw 337 have a solid rear axle or independent rear axles

Neither, really. It uses a torsion beam (some call it a twist beam in this application), which some consider semi-independent, but VW's BS press literature define as "fully independent" due to their track-correcting bushings.
It's a big bar that runs the length of the car between the rear tires. There are two "trailing arms" attached to the end of the bar at an angle on one side, and to the wheels on the other. When the wheels hit a bump, the arm puts a twist load on the beam, and it flexes, enabling some degree of independent movement.
It isn't great, but it is a little smoother than a solid axle, and it is very space efficient (and cheap).


----------



## 997Timbo (May 21, 2001)

*Re: (gtivr4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtivr4* »_Actualy threshold braking applies to both ABS and non ABS cars.

Yeah, but ABS hasn't kicked in when you're threshold braking... or ABS might start interfering...

_Quote, originally posted by *http://www.safespeed.org.uk/braking.html* »_
ABS provides a close approximation of threshold braking, and in an ABS equipped vehicle you might as well normally plant the brake pedal and leave it to the electronics. That said, good threshold braking is better than ABS and can stop you shorter. However, although it is possible to threshold brake in an ABS equipped car, sometimes the ABS will interfere with the subtle steering messages and actually make threshold braking harder.


----------



## shftat6 (Oct 9, 2000)

*Re: (nsadhal)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nsadhal* »_
Yeah, but ABS hasn't kicked in when you're threshold braking... or ABS might start interfering...


Threshold braking is applying the maximum amount of braking force before wheel lockup (that way you still maintain steering control). If you can do this, you will outbrake a car going into their ABS. 
When I was in the police academy and we pounded on the Crown Vics for 2 weeks solid, we did a lot of this. The instructors would always tell us to 'wiggle our toes' if the ABS kicked in. This seemingly goofy action would cause you to release just enough on the brakes to put you at threshold braking and keep you out of the ABS.


----------



## alman (Sep 17, 2001)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (jebglx)*

I've often heard the term Dana 44 or Dana 35, etc when discussing Jeep axels; I have no idea what this means.


----------



## 4x4s (Dec 18, 2003)

*Re: (jackwrx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jackwrx* »_If you're driving at 35 mph in 4th gear at 2500 rpm are you getting the same mileage as driving 45 mph in 5th gear at 2500 rpm?


At a specific RPM, your engine will be consuming gas at the same rate (Gallons per hour, for example). So in your question you would use the same amount of gas in an hour.
But clearly if you travel 45 miles in that hour, you are getting better mileage than if you had only travelled 35 miles.
So, the answer is "No".


----------



## 997Timbo (May 21, 2001)

*Re: (4x4s)*


_Quote, originally posted by *4x4s* »_At a specific RPM, your engine will be consuming gas at the same rate (Gallons per hour, for example). So in your question you would use the same amount of gas in an hour.
But clearly if you travel 45 miles in that hour, you are getting better mileage than if you had only travelled 35 miles.
So, the answer is "No".

That's not always true... I think this is a complicated calculation that will probably end up showing that you get better mileage at 45mph, because of certain factors true of most automobiles, but really depends on a lot of variables. The amount of fuel consumed is not entirely dependent on RPM, it also depends on the net torque being produced at that particular instant (i.e. torque produced by engine minus the load on it). An examle to consider is how much throttle it takes to bring your car to redline and hold it there while in neutral compared to how much throttle it takes to bring your car to redline in 3rd...


----------



## snowball II (Dec 13, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (alman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *alman* »_I've often heard the term Dana 44 or Dana 35, etc when discussing Jeep axels; I have no idea what this means.









Dana is an automotive supplier, and one of their product lines is differentials and axles. The 35 and 44 following are model numbers. Dana's have been used by all of the current domestic manufacturers, and even a few foreign ones (RWD Volvo's use a Dana 30 for example). In the jeep world, the 35 is usually fitted from the factory to the rear of wranglers/cherokees/grand cherokees/commanches/etc.. The 44 is usually optional for the rear on most of the previously mentioned vehicles, and has also been fitted to the front from the factory. 


_Quote, originally posted by *Armed Escort* »_
What the hell is "Symmetrical AWD", anyway?

Symmetrical AWD, or rather laterally symmetrical AWD means that the torque split between wheels on the same axle is equal. While Subaru is big on touting the advantages of Symm. AWD (probably because they missed out on the whole "trail rating" deal), Acura has released SH-AWD on their new RL. SH-AWD I guess could be billed as intelligently asymmetrical AWD. It's capable of not only biasing the torque split front to rear, but also side to side (on the rear axle only IIRC). Pretty cool stuff, imho.


----------



## Kafer Wolf (Aug 1, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (gtivr4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtivr4* »_This is a question for the women:
If a sports car with a long hood is supposed to be a falic symbol and for men who are 'compensating' for a small 'member', then why aren't women attracted to men in say a classic Mini, which would logically be the opposite?
You would think women would be attracted to men who are sure of themselves and aren't showing off or compensating, but that never seems to be the case.

i'm not a woman, but i'm guessing they're attracted because a guy driving around in a sports car spells S-U-C-C-E-S-S or W-E-A-L-T-H.
but personally, i think if a woman gets attracted to you because of your expensive car, she's not worth it. 


_Modified by Kafer Wolf at 10:47 PM 10-8-2005_


----------



## awglx (Jan 23, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (JUSTINCASE1021)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JUSTINCASE1021* »_why were some 2002 golfs called the "337" ???

I believe they are the 25th anniversary of the golf in Europe and 2003 is the 20th ae of golf in america


----------



## Corbic (Sep 1, 2003)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (awglx)*

*How does a Limited Slip Differential Work* and what are the differenecs between the different types?


----------



## texture (Dec 4, 2001)

*Re: (4x4s)*


_Quote, originally posted by *4x4s* »_At a specific RPM, your engine will be consuming gas at the same rate (Gallons per hour, for example). So in your question you would use the same amount of gas in an hour.
But clearly if you travel 45 miles in that hour, you are getting better mileage than if you had only travelled 35 miles.
So, the answer is "No".

I believe cars use more gas traveling at 45mph / 2500rpm going up a grade or towing a load then on flat ground. Fuel consumption isn't directly related to RPM. Sometimes it takes more fuel to receive the same return. So for the original poster the answer is there are too many variables involved to provide a simple answer.


----------



## VarianceVQ (Jun 26, 2005)

*Re: (texture)*

Oh, just thought of another:
I know you're supposed to tow a FWD car on the rear wheels and a RWD car on the front wheels but *how do you tow an AWD car*?


----------



## enriquejcu (Sep 16, 2004)

*Re: (VarianceJ30)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VarianceJ30* »_Oh, just thought of another:
I know you're supposed to tow a FWD car on the rear wheels and a RWD car on the front wheels but *how do you tow an AWD car*?

flatbed


----------



## jaredpgh (Jan 18, 2005)

*Re: (CheddaJetta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CheddaJetta* »_If 2 cars are traveling on I-90 towards each other and 1 car is traveling at 65mph and the other at 75 mph, when will they pass each other supposing that they started 300 miles apart?
















2.14285714 hours. Seriously.
I've always wondered why people call the last generation of RX-7s the "FD", and why people call certain Eagle Talon/Mitsu Eclipses "DSM". someone fill me in!


----------



## 2003_Passat_1.8T (Mar 2, 2005)

*Re: (enriquejcu)*


_Quote, originally posted by *enriquejcu* »_
flatbed

I always worry about this with the Forrester Turbo; if it is AWD would the grind and detroy the entire drivetrain while dragging it up on the flatbed?


----------



## matches (Aug 18, 2005)

*Re: (2003_Passat_1.8T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2003_Passat_1.8T* »_
I always worry about this with the Forrester Turbo; if it is AWD would the grind and detroy the entire drivetrain while dragging it up on the flatbed?

Couldn't it be in neutral while doing that?


----------



## jernest (Aug 11, 2001)

*Re: (Air and water do mix)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Air and water do mix* »_
I agree. In Germany, there's a sign called 'Priority Road' If your road has it, you don't have to stop. If your road doesn't have it, you're suppposed to stop. The nice thing is that if the sign is missing, you stop instead of cruising through the intersection. Of course, they use 'Stop' signs as well. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

That's right in Holland you can see a big arrow sign (Priority Road) but when there's no sign in a cross section that mean you have to stop and the righ hand car from the cross section has the priority to go. The funny thing is when there's four car at the intersection, the first who got there has the right to go then is followed by the car at his left. 
Don't ask me what happen when the 4 cars gets there at the same time....







I don't know


----------



## mister_g60 (Feb 25, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (TabulaVicious)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TabulaVicious* »_
Small cars:
1984-1987 (91*) 4000, urQ = Typ85 *urQ was produced till 1991
1988-1992 80/90/Coupe quattro = Typ89
1993-1997 90/Cabrio = B4 (This is where it starts getting easier)
1996-2002 A4/S4 = B5
Medium cars:
1983-1991 5000/100/200 = Typ44
1992-1997 100/A6/S4/S6 = C4
1998-2004 A6/S6/RS6 = C5
Large cars:
1989-1994 V8 quattro = D1
1996-2002? A8/S8 = D2
2003-Current = D3
TT:
Not really an Audi.

Thank you! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif But, so why the TT "not really an Audi"? (Sorry to continue w/ the q's...)


----------



## munkey (Apr 30, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (mister_g60)*

i'll give it a shot, answering the question.

the TT was built off the MKIV platform, so that might be why.
correct me if i'm wrong.


----------



## SteveMKIIDub (Nov 6, 2003)

*Re: (AutobahnTDI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AutobahnTDI* »_Jake brakes are only loud on trucks with modified exhaust systems.
.


And DAMN , do they sound fine!!














(god I miss work)

Ok.. I'll shoot..
What the ****s a car?


----------



## Honda_Appliance (May 4, 2000)

*Re: (SteveMKIIDub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SteveMKIIDub* »_

And DAMN , do they sound fine!!














(god I miss work)


They sure do. I love to hear a loaded dump truck coming down a big grade.


----------



## matoo (Jul 17, 2001)

*Re: (AutobahnTDI)*

Don't feel like quoting, but here goes.
Diesels and torque. All about the high compression in the motor.
The First diesels in modern era big rigs were NA. Drivers in the west had a hard time climbing the mountains, so Freightliner(I think, may have been Kenworth) started supercharging them. This gave them the power to climb the long grades. It eventually moved to turbos for better efficiency. And just a useless fact for fun. The 6-71 blower popular with hod rodding and drag racing was originally off of a GMC school bus.
Talon/Eclipse being called DSM. Diamond Star Motors aka Mitsubishi. The Mitsu emblem is 3 diamonds in a star formation. And the Talon/Eclipse are the same car.


----------



## matoo (Jul 17, 2001)

*Re: (matoo)*

Ok, now my stupid question.
Does traction control work in reverse?
I have a driveway that slopes down to the garage and the jetta has trouble backing out in the snow. If our next car has traction control will it help?


----------



## gtivr4 (Sep 22, 2000)

*Re: (matoo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *matoo* »_Talon/Eclipse being called DSM. Diamond Star Motors aka Mitsubishi. The Mitsu emblem is 3 diamonds in a star formation. And the Talon/Eclipse are the same car.

Actually Diamond Star Motors was a collaboration between Chrysler (Plymouth and Eagle) and Mitsubishi. The Diamond being Mitsubishi and the Star being Chrysler (logos). The Talon/Eclipse/Laser are basically the same car, although obviously with different styling and badges. I believe though that the Eclipse was the high end of the trio with more trim options.
They also collaborated on the 3000GT/ Dodge Stealth among many others, although those aren't DSMs.


----------



## deevubfreak (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: (gtivr4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtivr4* »_
Actually Diamond Star Motors was a collaboration between Chrysler (Plymouth and Eagle) and Mitsubishi. The Diamond being Mitsubishi and the Star being Chrysler (logos). The Talon/Eclipse/Laser are basically the same car, although obviously with different styling and badges. I believe though that the Eclipse was the high end of the trio with more trim options.
They also collaborated on the 3000GT/ Dodge Stealth among many others, although those aren't DSMs.

Yes but the talon had awd.


----------



## Parklife (Feb 23, 1999)

*Re: (deevubfreak)*


_Quote, originally posted by *deevubfreak* »_Yes but the talon had awd.

All three of the DSM cars had AWD. The Talon and Eclipse were available with AWD as an option from MY1990 to MY1994, whereas the Laser received AWD as an option starting in MY1992, when the front end of all three cars was redesigned with composite non-popup headlights.
All second-gen (MY1995-MY1999) Eclipses and Talons (except convertibles) were available with AWD. The Laser was dropped after the first-generation production run.


----------



## deevubfreak (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: (Parklife)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Parklife* »_
All three of the DSM cars had AWD. The Talon and Eclipse were available with AWD as an option from MY1990 to MY1994, whereas the Laser received AWD as an option starting in MY1992, when the front end of all three cars was redesigned with composite non-popup headlights.
All second-gen (MY1995-MY1999) Eclipses and Talons (except convertibles) were available with AWD. The Laser was dropped after the first-generation production run.









hmm, the talon is the only one ive ever seen with awd. Guess people were just too cheap to get it with the eclipses. That was one of the reasons i always liked the talon more than the eclipse.


----------



## mister_g60 (Feb 25, 2002)

*Re: (deevubfreak)*

Here's another one that's been bothering me:
What defines a "Jolf" and a "Getta"? I know what they are, but which is the Golf w/ the Jetta front-end and vice versa?


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

*Re: (mister_g60)*

Well, since Golf starts with a G, that is probably the front end of it. So if you stick a Golf front end on a Jetta, you get a Getta. and vice versa.


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

*Re: (shftat6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *shftat6* »_The instructors would always tell us to 'wiggle our toes' if the ABS kicked in. This seemingly goofy action would cause you to release just enough on the brakes to put you at threshold braking and keep you out of the ABS. 

_...files valuable info......_
Women like flashy cars because they mean money to burn.


----------



## ArmenB (Feb 8, 2002)

Seriously, *where did the word 'car' come from?* I get 'Auto' from "Automotive", which seems pretty obvious, but where did we get 'car'?


----------



## mister_g60 (Feb 25, 2002)

*Re: (atomicalex)*


_Quote, originally posted by *atomicalex* »_Well, since Golf starts with a G, that is probably the front end of it. So if you stick a Golf front end on a Jetta, you get a Getta. and vice versa.

Right, that's pretty much where I am, but _is this right?_ Or if we're all guessing, then is this what most people think when they mean Getta?


----------



## jebglx (Jul 13, 2000)

*Re: (mister_g60)*

so, when a car is behind an RV...does it rack the mileage up?
bill


----------



## enriquejcu (Sep 16, 2004)

*Re: (jebglx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jebglx* »_so, when a car is behind an RV...does it rack the mileage up?
bill









and to piggyback on your question: Why is it that 90% of the cars towed behind RV's are Saturns?


----------



## mister_g60 (Feb 25, 2002)

*Re: (jebglx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jebglx* »_so, when a car is behind an RV...does it rack the mileage up?
bill









oh that's a good one! my guess is that older (or I guess at this point, really old) cars w/ digital clusters and stuff don't? whereas those w/ more mechanical clusters and everything might?


----------



## DarkDragon (Oct 21, 2003)

*Re: (jebglx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jebglx* »_so, when a car is behind an RV...does it rack the mileage up?
bill









I dont see why it would, If the front wheels are off of the ground that is. The vehicle speed sensor in the trans also helps in counting mileage IIRC.


----------



## jebglx (Jul 13, 2000)

*Re: (mister_g60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *enriquejcu* »_and to piggyback on your question: Why is it that 90% of the cars towed behind RV's are Saturns?

YES







!!! i asked b/c i saw a saturn being towed by an RV today









_Quote, originally posted by *mister_g60* »_
oh that's a good one! my guess is that older (or I guess at this point, really old) cars w/ digital clusters and stuff don't? whereas those w/ more mechanical clusters and everything might?

that's what i think...
bill


----------



## cjb (Jul 11, 2001)

*Re: (mister_g60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mister_g60* »_
Right, that's pretty much where I am, but _is this right?_ Or if we're all guessing, then is this what most people think when they mean Getta?









Yes - Getta is a Jetta with a Golf front end. Jolf is a Golf with a Jetta front end.


----------



## Oni (Jan 1, 2003)

*Re: (cjb)*

Saturns with auto trans can be towed safely with all the wheels on the ground safely due to transmission design. Something about the use of bearings and not thrust washers. In 2002 the tranny design was changed and current models shouldn't be towed. Many other models have to have the drivelines disconnected so the transmission internals don't move.
Saturns do not accumulate milage when being flat towed, i guess digital instruments?


_Modified by Oni at 7:57 PM 10-10-2005_


----------



## mister_g60 (Feb 25, 2002)

*Re: (Oni)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Oni* »_In 2002 the tranny design was changed and current models shouldn't be towed.

Sounds like the person at Saturn in charge of knowing what their buyers are after is out of a job ...


----------



## arcem (Oct 1, 2004)

*Re: (texroll)*

can all cars with a stick be bump started like my friends cj 7?


_Modified by arcem at 3:08 PM 10-10-2005_


----------



## Samson (Dec 2, 1999)

*Re: (ArmenB)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ArmenB* »_Seriously, *where did the word 'car' come from?* I get 'Auto' from "Automotive", which seems pretty obvious, but where did we get 'car'?

I've been wondering that as well... so I asked google:
_"That said, Word and Phrase Origins states that "the word car comes from a Celtic word that sounded like karra to Julius Caesar, who gave the name to his chariots. Karra later was Latinized to carra. Surprisingly, the word car appears first around 1300; carriage evolved from it, then horseless carriage, and, finally, back to car again as a shortened form."_
http://www.horseless.com/firstcar.html
My stupid question:
The e-brake is to be used for emergency situations, no? This is fine with a car that has a lever/handle, but what about the foot operated kind that stay on unless pushed again? How does one modulate? Or, are they just not needed for emergency use anymore and relegated to parking duty?


_Modified by Samson at 2:15 PM 10-10-2005_


----------



## Cubster (Nov 26, 2002)

*Re: (Samson)*

Ok I got a question.
N/A diesels use diesel fuel, why don't Turbo Diesels use a "super diesel" fuel (referring to how a gas turbo needs a higher octane fuel).


----------



## gtivr4 (Sep 22, 2000)

*Re: (Cubster)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cubster* »_Ok I got a question.
N/A diesels use diesel fuel, why don't Turbo Diesels use a "super diesel" fuel (referring to how a gas turbo needs a higher octane fuel).

A turbocharged gas powered car doesn't necessarily need high octane fuel, just most are designed to use it. Turbo Diesels are designed to work with existing fuels (there is no super diesel to my knowledge)


----------



## Boston Chuck (Dec 13, 2001)

*Re: (Samson)*

What causes valve tick?


----------



## Chmeeee (Jun 24, 2002)

*Re: (arcem)*


_Quote, originally posted by *arcem* »_can all cars with a stick be bump started like my friends cj 7?


Yes, any car with a clutch should be able to be started by rolling it forward and then popping the clutch. I know I had to do it once with my TDI, and my friend did it with his Golf 2.0.
There was another time when it was so cold out that the battery wouldn't turn the engine over, so I rolled it down hill (good speed too, ~15 mph) and let out the clutch. The front wheels locked up and I slid down the hill. I think the oil and fuel were so thick from the cold (-18 F) that they needed a good charge from a heavy duty battery to get everything to move. Probably would have helped had I been going forwards instead of backwards too (weight transfer).


----------



## theblur (Sep 14, 2000)

*Re: (4x4s)*


_Quote, originally posted by *4x4s* »_
But clearly if you travel 45 miles in that hour, you are getting better mileage than if you had only travelled 35 miles.


no you are just going faster in that hour. miles per gallon is a measure of how many miles you travel per gallon of fuel spent. time plays no factor at all in that.


----------



## Intalex (Mar 1, 2002)

*Re: (theblur)*


_Quote, originally posted by *theblur* »_no you are just going faster in that hour. miles per gallon is a measure of how many miles you travel per gallon of fuel spent. time plays no factor at all in that. 

As a related question, doesn't speed affect fuel consumption? Regardless of engine RPMS, you have to fight a lot more wind resistance at 200km/h than you would at 20km/h.


----------



## 4x4s (Dec 18, 2003)

*Re: (theblur)*


_Quote, originally posted by *theblur* »_
no you are just going faster in that hour. miles per gallon is a measure of how many miles you travel per gallon of fuel spent. time plays no factor at all in that. 

But if you burn the same amount of gas at the two different speeds then it does. Read my post again, carefully.


----------



## speedracer82 (Jan 10, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (mister_g60)*

when FWD cars are converted to mid-engine, how dose the shifting work? Would it be backwards since the linkage would be reversed?


----------



## Boston Chuck (Dec 13, 2001)

*Re: (Chmeeee)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Chmeeee* »_Yes, any car with a clutch should be able to be started by rolling it forward and then popping the clutch. I know I had to do it once with my TDI, and my friend did it with his Golf 2.0.

I used to think this was true, but now I doubt it. When the battery died on my 5spd 1990 Olds 4-4-2, we couldn't start it using the roll-pop technique. The Olds' rear bumper lined up perfectly with my mom's Jetta's front bumper, so I had her pushing me around the neighborhood. Popping the clutch at many speeds up to about 20mph, the Olds wouldn't start. I don't know why.
We were a sight to see, though. A Jetta pushing an Olds around the block, for about a half hour. She could've pushed me all the way to Autozone, no doubt. Kinda like reverse towing.


----------



## Parklife (Feb 23, 1999)

*Re: (Boston Chuck)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Boston Chuck* »_When the battery died on my 5spd 1990 Olds 4-4-2, we couldn't start it using the roll-pop technique . . . the Olds wouldn't start. I don't know why.

The battery was dead. Push-starting only works if there's enough in the battery to run the fuel pump, ECU, injectors, coil, and everything else that a fuel-injected engine needs to run. Nowdays, that technique is only useful if the starter is bad.


----------



## Honda_Appliance (May 4, 2000)

*Re: (Parklife)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Parklife* »_The battery was dead. Push-starting only works if there's enough in the battery to run the fuel pump, ECU, injectors, coil, and everything else that a fuel-injected engine needs to run. Nowdays, that technique is only useful if the starter is bad.

Wouldn't the alternator be able to run all the electrical stuff and immediately start charging the battery? We used to push start a buddies car all the time when he left his lights on and had no problems once it got started.


----------



## 2Cor (Feb 18, 2003)

*Re: (AutobahnTDI)*

Did it have a mechanical fuel pump?


----------



## axe (Apr 29, 2005)

*Re: (Cubster)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cubster* »_Ok I got a question.
N/A diesels use diesel fuel, why don't Turbo Diesels use a "super diesel" fuel (referring to how a gas turbo needs a higher octane fuel).

Turbo gasoline cars generally use higher-octane fuel to resist premature detonation, because a gasoline engine has to spark the mixture itself, you don't want it blowing up before you want it to. Higher octane fuel resists detonation better, and with the higher compression of a forced induction engine it becomes more difficult to control detonation, hence higher-octane fuel.
Diesels, on the other hand, compress the air first and then inject the fuel into the compressed air (which has been heated because of the compression) and the whole thing detonates without needing a spark. Since you're only compressing air, the fuel doesn't influence the process, which is why diesels can run insane compresison ratios.


----------



## G-rocco (Sep 11, 2004)

how do articulated buses work? what keeps the floor in the middle from sagging, and are the rear wheels driven as well?


----------



## Mikedav (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: (jernest)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jernest* »_That's right in Holland you can see a big arrow sign (Priority Road) but when there's no sign in a cross section that mean you have to stop and the righ hand car from the cross section has the priority to go. 









Give way over here in almost every situation where you would have a stop sign in the US, unless its a blind or dangerous junction (in which case it would be a STOP sign and you have to stop). Give Way signs simply mean stop if something is coming. If its clear, roll on through. If four people arrive at once, they all smile at each other trying to figure out who should go, and while they are being polite I just go. 
Being made to stop regardless of traffic, even when you can see for miles in both directions, always seemed very odd to me when I was over in the US / Canada - friends used to laugh at how I rolled through every single Stop sign.


----------



## Honda_Appliance (May 4, 2000)

*Re: (G-rocco)*


_Quote, originally posted by *G-rocco* »_how do articulated buses work? what keeps the floor in the middle from sagging, and are the rear wheels driven as well?

Only the rear wheels are driven with buses that have the engine in the rear segment. It doesn't sag because there is a rigid hinge that is kind of like an arc shape.


----------



## jaredpgh (Jan 18, 2005)

*Re: (AutobahnTDI)*

to re-ask one of my previous questions: what does FD and FC mean when referring to RX-7s?


----------



## Burley (May 6, 2004)

*Re: (jaredpgh)*

Whats does 2+2 mean in regards to any car more so the 300ZX


----------



## Mikedav (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: (Burley)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Burley* »_Whats does 2+2 mean in regards to any car more so the 300ZX

2 + 2 pasengers...ie its cramped in the back, anrd the rear seat is too small for three people


----------



## speedhole (Oct 8, 2002)

*Re: (Burley)*

FD and FC are chassis codes for the RX7, the FD the most recent generation, the FC the previous gen(I don't know the years).
Alot of cars are refered to by a "chassis code" for the different generations of a particular car. Like EG, EP, EK, etc Civics. E30, E36, E?? BMWs. R32, R33, R34 Skylines. S13, S14, S15 Silvias. NA, NB, NC Miatas. A1, A2, A3, etc Golfs/Jettas
Now 2+2 usually refers to a sports car that is basically a 2 seater, but has a barely (if at all) usefull back seat for 2 more passengers. Some even have both variations, a 2 seater model, and a 2+2 version as well.


_Modified by neuo at 8:45 AM 10-11-2005_


----------



## 13minutes (Sep 8, 2002)

*Re: (Mikedav)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Mikedav* »_
2 + 2 pasengers...ie its cramped in the back, anrd the rear seat is too small for three people


Sometimes it's too cramped for two..








It's more _specifically_ used to describe a coupe with 4 seating positions. (Because having 4 seats is rightfully assumed in a two-door _sedan_/saloon.







)

_Modified by 13minutes at 12:14 PM 10-11-2005_


_Modified by 13minutes at 12:16 PM 10-11-2005_


----------



## Markasaurus! (May 25, 2005)

*Re: (sweatyworker)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sweatyworker* »_
I think it's spelt w00t. It comes from online computer gaming (Counter Strike probably) and is an expression of joy, Kind of like Woo Hoo








From Wikipedia:
"w00t could also have originated from the acronym of the phrase "We Owned the Other Team" from the game Counter-Strike."

It's actually someone's best attempt at the sound the guy in quake makes when he jumps.


----------



## Dekz (Jul 21, 2004)

*Re: (Mikedav)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Mikedav* »_Being made to stop regardless of traffic, even when you can see for miles in both directions, always seemed very odd to me when I was over in the US / Canada - friends used to laugh at how I rolled through every single Stop sign. 
















Well I don't know what part of Canada you came to, but we have those signs here. They are called "Yield" signs. But I will admit, I've found countless intersections with a Yield/Stop sign, where the other would be MUCH more appropriate.


----------



## redshift (May 22, 2002)

*Re: (G-rocco)*


_Quote, originally posted by *G-rocco* »_Why are import tuner exhausts so "farty" sounding, while euro tuner are deeper and burble-y.. (with the 4cyl. ones)??

Why do people use _Import_ and _Euro_ as two different terms when both cars are clearly _imported?_


----------



## turbo_wagon (Oct 26, 2001)

What does the flashing green light I sometimes see when driving in Vancouver BC mean? I've asked a ton of people up there, and I always get a different answer. I just drive through it like a green light.


----------



## Markasaurus! (May 25, 2005)

*Re: (kecart)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kecart* »_What does the flashing green light I sometimes see when driving in Vancouver BC mean? I've asked a ton of people up there, and I always get a different answer. I just drive through it like a green light.









If it's what I think you mean, it;s called an advanced green. Meaning, you have a green light but the traffic coming the other way doesn't, so you can make a left. 
Don't have those in the states?


----------



## Jman5000 (Nov 8, 1999)

*Re: (kecart)*

Why did "rims", which is part of a _wheel_. Rim, hub, spokes, etc...become the term for _wheels_ themselves?
A headlight isn't called "bulbs".


----------



## gtivr4 (Sep 22, 2000)

*Re: (Markasaurus!)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Markasaurus!* »_
If it's what I think you mean, it;s called an advanced green. Meaning, you have a green light but the traffic coming the other way doesn't, so you can make a left. 
Don't have those in the states?

No, they have green arrows. No flashing lights for anything (simple so Americans can understand, although even then they don't understand lights)


----------



## Live-Wire (Jun 9, 2005)

*Re: (gtivr4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtivr4* »_
A turbocharged gas powered car doesn't necessarily need high octane fuel, just most are designed to use it. Turbo Diesels are designed to work with existing fuels (there is no super diesel to my knowledge)

Sunoco Gold diesel







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif It's all I use - you do get a little bit more power out of it (like 2-3Hp probably)... Actually it's mainly used by diesel drivers because it already contains additives, but you get a few more KPH out of the top speed of the car (comparing ESSO to Sunoco)


_Modified by Live-Wire at 5:24 PM 10-11-2005_


----------



## Markasaurus! (May 25, 2005)

*Re: (gtivr4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtivr4* »_
No, they have green arrows. No flashing lights for anything (simple so Americans can understand, although even then they don't understand lights)

Ah. We have the arrows also, but that's only for when both directions of traffic are able to turn left.


----------



## vivagarcia (Feb 19, 2001)

*Re: (Markasaurus!)*

How do I jumper the High to the H/L/Fog Ground?


----------



## d6 (Mar 25, 2003)

*Re: (Markasaurus!)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Markasaurus!* »_
If it's what I think you mean, it;s called an advanced green. Meaning, you have a green light but the traffic coming the other way doesn't, so you can make a left. 
Don't have those in the states?

No sir that's incorrect. In BC, when you have flashing green (flashes slowly), it means that your direction and the opposite direction will have the right of the way, with unprotected left turn (turn when safe), and the traffic going across will have flashing red - treat it as a stop sign - cross the intersection when there's no traffic. 
But in Quebec, we have the fast flashing green which means you have the right of way and everyone else is stopped - protected left turn.


----------



## Mike! (Jun 18, 2002)

*Re: (Cubster)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cubster* »_Ok I got a question.
N/A diesels use diesel fuel, why don't Turbo Diesels use a "super diesel" fuel (referring to how a gas turbo needs a higher octane fuel).

Cetane is the equivalent of octane for diesel fuel.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cetane_rating
Mike


----------



## B20VTEC (Apr 27, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (Uranium235)*

Well, this is a question I have been wondering for a while now, but the reason I didn't ask isn't because I was afraid to, I just simply never found a thread so aptly titled.
Anyway, is there a proper way to brake?
More specifically, is there a proper way to brake so that the brake rotors will not warp or wear unevenly? 
Every car I have had over the years develops uneven rotor wear which causes the steering wheel to shake violently during normal to hard braking. 
This thread is like psycho-therapy for car nuts.










_Modified by B20VTEC at 6:12 PM 10-11-2005_


----------



## Dubai Vol (Jan 8, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (B20VTEC)*


_Quote, originally posted by *B20VTEC* »_Anyway, is there a proper way to brake?
More specifically, is there a proper way to brake so that the brake rotors will not warp or wear unevenly? 
Every car I have had over the years develops uneven rotor wear which causes the steering wheel to shake violently during normal to hard braking. 


I used to have that problem until I read about not leaving your brakes clamped on a hot rotor when you stop. It had just never occurred to me and it's so obvious. When you come to a stop, release the brakes and even let the car roll a bit. If your pads stay clamped on the rotor that spot stays hot while the rest cools faster, presto, warped rotor!


----------



## 13minutes (Sep 8, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (Dubai Vol)*

Wow- I already do that- I must be a genius!








Actually, I have always had a habit of stopping short- then rolling into a final position before coming to a complete stop.
My question: What is the proper way of storing wheels (with tires) when not in use?


----------



## vwgtirob (Aug 16, 2001)

*Re: (AutobahnTDI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AutobahnTDI* »_Wouldn't the alternator be able to run all the electrical stuff and immediately start charging the battery? We used to push start a buddies car all the time when he left his lights on and had no problems once it got started.

It depends on how dead the battery is. If there's enough left to get the ECU up and running and maintain the alternator field current (which is a lot less than needed to turn the starter), you can push-start. Otherwise it probably won't work.


----------



## Liquid1.8T (Dec 20, 1999)

*Re: (vwgtirob)*

What does "circa" mean?


----------



## jddaigle (May 30, 2003)

*Re: (Liquid1.8T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Liquid1.8T* »_What does "circa" mean?









"Roughly" or "around". Circa 1990 means around 1990.


----------



## Markasaurus! (May 25, 2005)

*Re: (d6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *d6* »_
No sir that's incorrect. In BC, when you have flashing green (flashes slowly), it means that your direction and the opposite direction will have the right of the way, with unprotected left turn (turn when safe), and the traffic going across will have flashing red - treat it as a stop sign - cross the intersection when there's no traffic. 
But in Quebec, we have the fast flashing green which means you have the right of way and everyone else is stopped - protected left turn.









Durn BC.
Good thing I know this now, if I ever went there I'd have no clue what I was doing.


----------



## StrkOutTheSide45 (Aug 10, 2004)

*Re: (13minutes)*


_Quote, originally posted by *13minutes* »_
It's more _specifically_ used to describe a coupe with 4 seating positions. (Because having 4 seats is rightfully assumed in a two-door _sedan_/saloon.







)

_Modified by 13minutes at 12:14 PM 10-11-2005_

_Modified by 13minutes at 12:16 PM 10-11-2005_

I thought this was also done for insurance purposes, cheaper to insure.

Can someone explain gear ratios. How do all the numbers relate and what do they mean???


----------



## tehAndy (Oct 12, 2005)

So, what fluid is more flammable?
Brakleen or Berryman's carb dip?


----------



## Benjamin. (Nov 13, 2001)

*Re: (gtivr4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtivr4* »_
No, they have green arrows. No flashing lights for anything (simple so Americans can understand, although even then they don't understand lights)

except for flashing red and flashing yellow, both in regular lights and arrows. how much time have you spent in the states?


----------



## Dekz (Jul 21, 2004)

*Re: (d6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *d6* »_
No sir that's incorrect. In BC, when you have flashing green (flashes slowly), it means that your direction and the opposite direction will have the right of the way, with unprotected left turn (turn when safe), and the traffic going across will have flashing red - treat it as a stop sign - cross the intersection when there's no traffic. 


That's also incorrect.
Ok, here we go....
A flashing green ARROW means that you can turn left, traffic going straight in the opposite direction has a red light.
A flashing green light (round) means that the intersection is pedestrian controlled, it will not turn red unless a pedestrian pushes the button to cross. If you are turning left you must wait for a break in traffic.
I'd be glad to answer any more BC traffic questions


----------



## Mike! (Jun 18, 2002)

*Re: (Dekz)*

Funny, in Ontario a flashing (round) green works exactly as the first poster described... an "advanced signal" replacing a green arrow. The first time I encountered one, I moved out into the intersection as usual to wait for a hole in oncoming traffic, but oncoming traffic didn't start moving. Then my girlfriend yelled at me 'what was I doing' and to 'go!' 
Who says there's no difference between Canada and the US







Though apparently that would confuse other Canadians as well








Quebec traffic lights are different altogether, for one:








Mike


----------



## gtivr4 (Sep 22, 2000)

*Re: (mynameisphunk)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mynameisphunk* »_
except for flashing red and flashing yellow, both in regular lights and arrows. how much time have you spent in the states? 

Never seen a flashing red or yellow arrow or flashing red light (at least not in a regular red/yellow/green light). Maybe other states have them that I haven't seen, but Vermont doesn't. 
Have I spent much time in the states? Oh about 25 years or so


----------



## sweatyworker (May 4, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (B20VTEC)*

Interesting Article on this very issue
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_i...shtml


----------



## NewVWgirl (Sep 8, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (sweatyworker)*

O.k I am always hearing my husband talking about big block cars and small block cars.
Please forgive the extreme auto ignorance but what's the difference between the small block and big block?


----------



## Benjamin. (Nov 13, 2001)

*Re: (gtivr4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtivr4* »_
Never seen a flashing red or yellow arrow or flashing red light (at least not in a regular red/yellow/green light). Maybe other states have them that I haven't seen, but Vermont doesn't. 
Have I spent much time in the states? Oh about 25 years or so









if i remember, i'll take a picture of the flashing red arrow (basically acts like a left turn stop sign) on the way to work tomorrow. 
flashing red/yellow lights often occur after a certain time of night (i.e. often 10 PM) when the traffic lights will turn this way during the low-traffic night hours. flashing yellow = proceed with caution, flashing red = stop sign. they stay this way until normal light rotation continues at a set time in the morning.


----------



## KeiCar (Jul 23, 2002)

*Re: (mynameisphunk)*

Yellow headlights in rally cars.
Doesnt this decrease the lighting output? If they are using the yellow film to get their cars noticed then why not just put it on the fog beams, why do they have to be on the main beams as well.


----------



## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

*Re: (MikeNoGo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MikeNoGo* »_Who says there's no difference between Canada and the US







Though apparently that would confuse other Canadians as well









yeah seems like canadians can't make up their minds what a flashing green means:
http://freespace.virgin.net/jo...s.htm


----------



## RzinDubs (Apr 7, 2003)

*Re: (gti_matt)*

Why do the wheels on the bus go 'round n' 'round?














kidding
What is involved in a "tune up" for a car? I understand that it replaces some maintenance items like sparkplugs but what else?


----------



## IndigoDriver (Jul 3, 2004)

*Re: (RzinDubs)*

Why do people who own recreational vehicles(RV'S) always seem to be towing Saturns behind them?


----------



## gtivr4 (Sep 22, 2000)

*Re: (IndigoDriver)*


_Quote, originally posted by *IndigoDriver* »_Why do people who own recreational vehicles(RV'S) always seem to be towing Saturns behind them?









Transmission design (it was already asked and answered in this thread!)


----------



## garagemonster (Nov 17, 2004)

*Re: (Mk3 Mayhem)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Mk3 Mayhem* »_What does "woot" stand for or mean??

another possible derivation for this one is from old-timey hacking days when people would try to break into the "root" directory on a server to gain access to all directories. successful hackers would then exclaim "root!" on message boards to brag to all their "friends".
as with all intentional weeb mis-spellings, it eventually morphed into "w00t!" to elude programs that searched for specific words (see for example, "pr0n").


----------



## texture (Dec 4, 2001)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (NewVWgirl)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NewVWgirl* »_O.k I am always hearing my husband talking about big block cars and small block cars.
Please forgive the extreme auto ignorance but what's the difference between the small block and big block?

Good question, I think the definition varies, but a small block is typically a GM V8 engine up to 350 cubic inches (can be higher if it's bored and or stroked), big blocks starts around 396 cubic inches but this is what wikipedia has to say:
SMALL BLOCK
A small-block engine is a North American V8 in a family of engines which generally have less than 6 liters (360 cubic inches) of displacement, although some derivatives have grown larger (up to 400 cubic inches, 6.6 litres). Larger families of engines are called big-blocks. The distinction came about in the early 1960s when the large full-size cars needed a bigger V8 than the smaller mid-size and compact cars. Prior to that point, manufacturers normally had only one V8 engine line.
The term is normally used only for engines from the "Big Three" (Ford Motor Company, General Motors, and Chrysler Corporation) since the other companies did not keep two V8 engine size families. However, it's sometimes used for the more modern and compact V8s produced by others, such as Studebaker.
Although a small-block V8 is of significantly smaller displacement than the equivalent big-block, a small-block engine can be tuned to develop significant amounts of power. Additionally, many small-block engines were more advanced technologically than their big-block counterparts, and were much lighter and smaller. For this reason, they were often preferred in racing and sporting applications. Many hot rods and custom cars are fitted with small-block V8s, particularly the GM (Chevrolet) 350 engine and the Ford 351 Windsor.
BIG BLOCK
A big-block engine is a North American V8 in a family of engines which generally have greater than 5.9 litres (360 cubic inches) of displacement; factory engine sizes reached a peak of 8.2 litres (500 cubic inches) in Cadillac's 1970s range. Smaller V8 engines are known as small-blocks; some members of small-block engine families may exceed 6 litres, blurring the distinction somewhat. The distinction came about in the early 1960s when the large full-size cars needed a bigger V8 than the smaller mid-size and compact cars. Prior to that point, manufacturers normally had only one V8 engine line.
The term is normally used only for engines from the "Big Three" (Ford Motor Company, General Motors, and Chrysler Corporation) since the other companies did not keep two V8 engine size families.
Big-block V8s were most commonly used in full-size and luxury cars, rather than performance vehicles. Thus, they were commonly tuned and built for smoothness, low-end torque to get heavy cars rolling and effortless cruising. Many big-block engines were less technically sophisticated than their small-block counterparts, and their power-to-weight ratios were often lower.
They did see performance applications, however. Performance-tuned big-blocks were used in NASCAR racing, and homologation requirements saw these engines sold for road use. NASCAR's 7-litre engine size limit explains why many high-performance big blocks are of this size; Chevrolet's 427, Ford's 427, Chrysler's 426 Hemi. In the mid to late 1960s, the explosion of the muscle car market saw performance big-blocks fitted to intermediate-size cars. Some used derivatives of the racing engines, but in addition performance versions of former luxury motors were produced.
After the 1973 oil crisis, the days of the big-block in passenger cars were numbered. By the end of the 1970s, they were no longer to be found. However, these engines remained in use in pickup trucks and other non-car uses.


----------



## Chmeeee (Jun 24, 2002)

*Re: (BrendanMX5)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BrendanMX5* »_Yellow headlights in rally cars.
Doesnt this decrease the lighting output? If they are using the yellow film to get their cars noticed then why not just put it on the fog beams, why do they have to be on the main beams as well.

Yellow lights bounce off of fog & rain much less than white ones.


----------



## jebglx (Jul 13, 2000)

*Re: (Chmeeee)*

what causes a windshield wiper to "chatter" across the windshield?
even when it's relatively new?
bill


----------



## ATL_Av8r (Oct 17, 2002)

*Re: (jebglx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jebglx* »_what causes a windshield wiper to "chatter" across the windshield?
even when it's relatively new?
bill

not enough wiper grease


----------



## jebglx (Jul 13, 2000)

*Re: (ATL_Av8r)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ATL_Av8r* »_
not enough wiper grease









so...do i have to refill the wiper grease the same time i refill the bumper fluid







???
bill


----------



## AKADriver (Nov 20, 2001)

*Re: (Chmeeee)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Chmeeee* »_Yellow lights bounce off of fog & rain much less than white ones.

I believe it's been determined this actually isn't true. Fog droplets are still too large to selectively scatter visible light of different wavelengths.

_Quote, originally posted by *ArmenB* »_Seriously, *where did the word 'car' come from?* I get 'Auto' from "Automotive", which seems pretty obvious, but where did we get 'car'?


It's a word older than the automobile. It derives from the Middle English word _carre_, meaning "cart". _Cart_ itself was also a word in ME, though, so the distinction between the two is at least that old. "Cart" is Germanic in origin and "car" is Latin; but they both derive from the same ancient Indo-European root _kers_.
The use of "car" to refer to automobiles derives from saying "motor car", the same way we'd still say "elevator car" or "cable car" today. When automobiles became ubiquitous, saying "motor car" became as redundant as saying "cassette tape" or "color TV".


----------



## speedhole (Oct 8, 2002)

*Re: (jebglx)*

In regards to performance cams, what do the different numbers mean(ie. 260, 270, 258, etc)? Are they just model numbers, or do they reflect some sort of performance/timing/duration/lift kinda numbers?


----------



## speedracer82 (Jan 10, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (speedracer82)*


_Quote, originally posted by *speedracer82* »_when FWD cars are converted to mid-engine(example, "durorcco", bi-engined Tiburon, how dose the shifting work? Would it be backwards since the linkage would be reversed?

no one???


----------



## G-rocco (Sep 11, 2004)

I remembered this question after seeing the limo thread - How do they make an H1 limo? Dosen't it have a huge central backbone that shields the drivetrain and such?


----------



## Pepper_Ronnie (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (G-rocco)*

Who the hell did a "bangle" on the B7 Audis? From B6 elegance to a car that looks like a fish that is about to be fried. I want his name now!


----------



## AKADriver (Nov 20, 2001)

*Re: (neuo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *neuo* »_In regards to performance cams, what do the different numbers mean(ie. 260, 270, 258, etc)? Are they just model numbers, or do they reflect some sort of performance/timing/duration/lift kinda numbers?

They refer to a number called "advertised duration" which is the duration of the cam from .000" lift. Advertised duration isn't of much use, since due to valvetrain clearances, the valve generally doesn't start moving until the cam reaches ~.050" lift. This is why cam specs will usually list advertised duration as well as duration at .050".
This isn't to say some cams aren't sold by model number; Ford guys immediately know the model number "E303", and the Crane Cams lineup for the Neon engine is usually referenced by model number (from the #10 mild street cams to the #18 race cams).

_Quote, originally posted by *speedracer82* »_when FWD cars are converted to mid-engine(example, "durorcco", bi-engined Tiburon, how dose the shifting work? Would it be backwards since the linkage would be reversed?

Well, first off, the twin-engined Tiburon had automatic transmissions. But a lot of production cars and custom cars have indeed used FWD manual transaxles in mid-engine configurations. The MR2, X1/9, and Fiero are most famous.
The shift pattern isn't reversed because while the linkage may go the other way, the linkage at the transmission works the same. If you push forward on the shift lever, it's still a forward motion of the lever with respect to the gearbox. The lever is just in front rather than behind.
It helps to simplify the transmission linkage to one rigid link to see why this works...
|____||____|
Imagine what I've just drawn there is a theoretical car with two transmissions: one mounted in front, one mounted behind. The double bar in the middle represents the position of the shift lever. If you push the shift lever forward:
\____\\____\
Notice both the front and rear transmissions have their gear selector moved the same way. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## hawc (Oct 24, 2001)

*Re: (gtivr4)*

Why does my car look so hot?


----------



## Sunil (Sep 24, 1999)

*Re: (hawc)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hawc* »_Why does my car look so hot? 

Because it is parked next to your girlfriend.


----------



## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (NewVWgirl)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NewVWgirl* »_O.k I am always hearing my husband talking about big block cars and small block cars.
Please forgive the extreme auto ignorance but what's the difference between the small block and big block?

In addition to the comments someone posted from Wikipedia, it is my understanding that "small block" and "big block" refer to the fact that an automaker would traditionally make two sizes of V8 engine blocks and then bore them to various displacements. If you take a small block "in the rough" and bore it out to its largest diameter, you're limited to a maximum bore (and therefore displacememt).


----------



## chetacer (Dec 23, 2002)

Why in Michigan are there "no left turn" type signs (left arrow with strike through it) at every on-ramp onto the interstate? Is this just a Michigan thing, or is it across other states?
I would think that if you were merging onto an interstate you would know not to turn left into oncoming traffic, but that's just me.


----------



## Chmeeee (Jun 24, 2002)

*Re: (chetacer)*

Here they just put up signs at the end of the ramps that say "No Turns". I think you can file that in the "better safe than sorry" folder.


----------



## AKADriver (Nov 20, 2001)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (IJM)*


_Quote, originally posted by *IJM* »_In addition to the comments someone posted from Wikipedia, it is my understanding that "small block" and "big block" refer to the fact that an automaker would traditionally make two sizes of V8 engine blocks and then bore them to various displacements. If you take a small block "in the rough" and bore it out to its largest diameter, you're limited to a maximum bore (and therefore displacememt). 

Right. There's no hard and fast delineation of displacement, it's just what the manufacturer made.
For instance there is no Pontiac "big block" or "small block"; all the Pontiac-exclusive V8s from the 301 to the 455 share the same basic design (though there were a number of changes made to the smaller 326/350 and 301). It also doesn't make as much sense for say, Ford, since they produced many different engine series - Windsor, Cleveland, M, FE, 385-series, etc.
The largest production engine I've heard called a "small block" was GM's 7.0L LS7, in the C6 Z06. The smallest production engine I've heard called a "big block" is the '58-'59 Ford 332ci (5.4L) FE-series.


_Modified by AKADriver at 2:46 PM 10-12-2005_


----------



## chetacer (Dec 23, 2002)

Are there official naming conventions to the use of the following suffix words:
Road
Avenue
Boulevard
Parkway
Drive
Street
Way
??


----------



## RetroGTI (Mar 26, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (jebglx)*

what the heck is a shooting brake?
I'm serious


----------



## hawc (Oct 24, 2001)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (RetroGTI)*

Double clutching makes no sense to me. I understand rev matching. But why do you have to push the clutch in and out as you shift through neutral to the next gear. why not just leave the clutch in and rev the engine. it's just one extra step.


----------



## Tnmax21 (Jun 5, 2001)

*Re: (chetacer)*


_Quote, originally posted by *chetacer* »_Are there official naming conventions to the use of the following suffix words:
Road
Avenue
Boulevard
Parkway
Drive
Street
Way
??

I know Blvd. has to have a section in the middle, like a median. Thats what makes it a Blvd.


----------



## golftor (Jul 12, 2005)

*Re: (chetacer)*


_Quote, originally posted by *chetacer* »_Are there official naming conventions to the use of the following suffix words:
Road
Avenue
Boulevard
Parkway
Drive
Street
Way
??

Add to this, why is it that we drive on Parkways, yet park on driveways?


----------



## Pat3022 (Nov 18, 2003)

*Re: (golftor)*

what do IMO and DTM?


----------



## turbo_wagon (Oct 26, 2001)

*Re: (d6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *d6* »_
No sir that's incorrect. In BC, when you have flashing green (flashes slowly), it means that your direction and the opposite direction will have the right of the way, with unprotected left turn (turn when safe), and the traffic going across will have flashing red - treat it as a stop sign - cross the intersection when there's no traffic. 
But in Quebec, we have the fast flashing green which means you have the right of way and everyone else is stopped - protected left turn.









Thanks for the answers...that mostly makes sense. I've typically seen them on 99 coming from the border to downtown Vancouver where they don't have any left turn lanes. I don't understand the flashing red light reference though. I don't think that the people with the red lights have flashing red lights....they'd be solid since it's such a busy road, no?


----------



## the_marcus (Jun 19, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (hawc)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hawc* »_Double clutching makes no sense to me. I understand rev matching. But why do you have to push the clutch in and out as you shift through neutral to the next gear. why not just leave the clutch in and rev the engine. it's just one extra step. 

I want to know aswell.


----------



## Dubai Vol (Jan 8, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (the_marcus)*


_Quote, originally posted by *the_marcus* »_
Quote, originally posted by hawc » 
Double clutching makes no sense to me. I understand rev matching. But why do you have to push the clutch in and out as you shift through neutral to the next gear. why not just leave the clutch in and rev the engine. it's just one extra step. 
I want to know aswell.

That's because you're too young to rem when transmissions came without synchonisers. The "clutch out in neutral" step is to spin the actual gears in the transmission to the correct speed so they will mesh without grinding. In modern transmission the synchromesh does this for you, but as recently as the 1960s some cars came without synchros. For example MGs of that era had a non-synchro first gear. If you wanted to shift into first while moving you had to double clutch.


----------



## turbo_wagon (Oct 26, 2001)

*Re: (kecart)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kecart* »_
Thanks for the answers...that mostly makes sense. I've typically seen them on 99 coming from the border to downtown Vancouver where they don't have any left turn lanes. I don't understand the flashing red light reference though. I don't think that the people with the red lights have flashing red lights....they'd be solid since it's such a busy road, no?

Oops, guess this wasn't right either.


----------



## Dekz (Jul 21, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (RetroGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RetroGTI* »_what the heck is a shooting brake?
I'm serious

I learned this less than a week ago here in TCL.
A shooting brake is a 2-door station wagon.


----------



## B20VTEC (Apr 27, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (sweatyworker)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sweatyworker* »_Interesting Article on this very issue
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_i...shtml 


Awesome info!
thanks!


----------



## Pat3022 (Nov 18, 2003)

*Re: (Pat3022)*

What do IMO and DTM mean?


----------



## snowball II (Dec 13, 2004)

*Re: (Pat3022)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Pat3022* »_What do IMO and DTM mean?

IMO= in my opinion
DTM= Down the Middle in the aircooled world, or it's also the name of a German touring car series. (Deutsche Tourenwagen Meisterschaft). You'll see mufflers and other tuning bits referred to as DTM because they are modeled after the look of DTM vehicles.


----------



## Jim85 (Nov 22, 2004)

*Re: (snowball II)*

Why do people think chrome is nice?


----------



## 4x4s (Dec 18, 2003)

*Re: (Jim85)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jim85* »_Why do people think chrome is nice?

Same reason some people like chocolate ice cream while others prefer vanilla - personal taste.


----------



## Mr.Veedubya (Sep 25, 2004)

*Re: (4x4s)*

What does OEM stand for? I know what OEM stuff is I was just havin a brain fart earlier tryin to think what it stands for.


----------



## 4x4s (Dec 18, 2003)

*Re: (Gotta Be A Dub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Gotta Be A Dub* »_What does OEM stand for? I know what OEM stuff is I was just havin a brain fart earlier tryin to think what it stands for. 

*O*riginal *E*quipment *M*anufatcuer.


----------



## gtivr4 (Sep 22, 2000)

*Re: (Jim85)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jim85* »_Why do people think chrome is nice?

1) Its shiny
2) It attracts attention
3) its classic
4) in many situations it can add a touch of class
Why do you not like chrome (assuming you don't)?


----------



## Franco... (Jun 18, 2004)

*Re: (gtivr4)*

will the public ever be able to view the blackhole?


----------



## mike_04jetta (Feb 10, 2005)

*Re: (kecart)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kecart* »_What does the flashing green light I sometimes see when driving in Vancouver BC mean? I've asked a ton of people up there, and I always get a different answer. I just drive through it like a green light.









no its not an advanced green, it means that the green light will continue for a little longer, its like a pre emtive yellow light


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (VarianceJ30)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VarianceJ30* »_I got some diesel-related ?s:
What makes diesels so torquey compared to comparable gas engines?
Do all diesels have turbos and if so, why?


the -main- reason diesels have so much more torque is the way that diesel burns compared to gas. gas burns much faster, its still not an instant explosion but it burns up VERY quickly and very hot - meaning that the whole burn process is done well before the piston reaches the bottom of its stroke. you get a nice punch of power very quickly (good for high HP) but its lasting force is not so great, and doesnt push the crankshaft as long(not so good for torque)
diesels burns much much slower than gasoline -and- has a higher btu content, so when it ignites it will push the piston all the way to the end of its stroke, which is not so great for quick punch power, but torque is awesome.

the other reason is that most diesel engines out there are built as strokers to take advantage of those very aspects of diesel fuel. and generally speaking of all internal combustion engines more stroke=more torque, more bore=more power.
and this is a perfect example of a NA diesel engine. an old Cat 3208, V8 diesel used in heavy duty trucks. older dumptrucks and really old ford f350s had them. turbos are used today because well...turbos = more power just like in gas engines. the advantage here has already been touched on though, the fuel in diesel engines isnt injected until a few degrees before TDC, therefore, knock or pre-detonation isnt a problem at all (like in gas engines) and you can pretty much shove as much air into the cylinder as the hardware can take. and conversly, put all the fuel in there you want to match it.








ive seen some pretty crazy numbers out of some engines at work - imagine a 14L inline 6 turbo diesel cranking out 2200 hp and nearly 6000 lbs of torque at 1800 rpm.


----------



## Markasaurus! (May 25, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (TurboWraith)*

I have a hard time getting my head around torque/hp.
People say you brag about hp but drive torque. Torque is the instant pull right, the feeling you get? Why would it feel faster then it really is? Is it just because it gets to it's maximum acceleration faster?

Also, what does a diesel sound like with a straight pipe?


----------



## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (Markasaurus!)*


_Quote, originally posted by *enriquejcu* »_
Why is it that 90% of the cars towed behind RV's are Saturns?

My dad was telling me this, he ended up getting a Suzuki Sidekick for his RV because that’s one of the other auto-transmission vehicles that can safely be flat-towed.

_Quote, originally posted by *chetacer* »_
Are there official naming conventions to the use of the following suffix words:
Road
Avenue
Boulevard
Parkway
Drive
Street
Way

Not sure about road-sign use, but the U.S. Postal Service says:
Road = RD
Avenue = AVE
Boulevard = BLVD
Parkway = PKWY
Drive = DR
Street = ST
Way = WAY
http://www.usps.com/ncsc/looku...uffix


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (Markasaurus!)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Markasaurus!* »_I have a hard time getting my head around torque/hp.
People say you brag about hp but drive torque. Torque is the instant pull right, the feeling you get? Why would it feel faster then it really is? Is it just because it gets to it's maximum acceleration faster?

Also, what does a diesel sound like with a straight pipe?










hp and torque are hard to distinguish as 'feelings'. HP = work done over time. its a rate, meaning that if you have a higher number, you can do more stuff in a less amount of time. Torque = rotational force. its how hard your engine is twisting the drivetrain. The more torque you have, the harder its going to twist everything. 
people often refer to low rpm grunt as torque and high rpm grunt as HP - which is basicly true, but mostly marketing BS they have picked up from listening to auto manufactures. engines can have low end torque, high end torque, or low end HP even. i guess the best way to explain it is this way, your car has x torque, and y hp. the amount of torque you have determines your cars top speed (assuming gears are were they need to be) and hp determines how fast you are going to get there. 
in the end they kinda go hand in hand, you cant really have one without the other... but different engines certainly have different amounts of each. (B18c compared to 1.8t anyone?)

diesels with straight pipes sound AWESOME. turbo is really loud, and you get more of a thunderous sound than a raspy tone.


----------



## Honda_Appliance (May 4, 2000)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (TurboWraith)*

Good explanation, TurboWraith. It's always been my thought that torque cannot be perceived while driving a car because it has no relation to time. When people refer to "low-end torque" they are just talking about an engine's ability to make lots of power at low RPMs.


----------



## B20VTEC (Apr 27, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (Dubai Vol)*

what does IIRC stand for?


----------



## Honda_Appliance (May 4, 2000)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (B20VTEC)*


_Quote, originally posted by *B20VTEC* »_what does IIRC stand for?

if I recall correctly


----------



## 16vracer (Jul 12, 1999)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (B20VTEC)*


_Quote, originally posted by *B20VTEC* »_what does IIRC stand for?


If I Recall(or Remember) Correctly.


----------



## 16vracer (Jul 12, 1999)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (16vracer)*

Here's one that I don't understand:
Traction Bars on Muscle cars....how do they work? I mean it's just a piece of angle iron...how can it improve traction?


----------



## depireux (Feb 4, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (jebglx)*

What is the etymology of "Shooting brake"? I know what it means, but hwo did the expression come about?


----------



## deevubfreak (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (16vracer)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16vracer* »_Here's one that I don't understand:
Traction Bars on Muscle cars....how do they work? I mean it's just a piece of angle iron...how can it improve traction?

They keep the rear end from twisting away from the body, thus helping to keep both wheels on the ground.


----------



## Seni0rl0c0 (Jun 19, 2000)

*Re: (VegasJetta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VegasJetta* »_I got one..
around Vegas, on the highways near overpasses or underpasses, there are signs that say NO HC with the universal Crossout sign, circle with a line through it. 
Whiskey Tango Foxtrot?!

Hazardous Cargo?


----------



## juice (Oct 19, 2004)

Who is this guy Mark and why does he own III or even IV Jettas and Golfs at a time?


----------



## jebglx (Jul 13, 2000)

*Re: (juice)*


_Quote, originally posted by *juice* »_Who is this guy Mark and why does he own III or even IV Jettas and Golfs at a time?









ahahahahahahahahaha








i've given up my fight about this







...
but if i type a4 jetta, i get a couple of dozen IMs from people saying how wrong i am b/c audi never built jettas








so i'll stick with g/j I- g/j II- g/j III- etc








bill


----------



## adubdealer (Aug 8, 2003)

Hey, I heard Mark just got another Jetta in fact?


----------



## SVT2888 (May 17, 2005)

*Re: (adubdealer)*

Um what is JB weld?








Seriously I don't know what it is.


----------



## Parklife (Feb 23, 1999)

*Re: (SVT2888)*









It's an extremely hard two-part epoxy (a tube of resin, and a tube of hardener) that's great for a variety of repairs.


----------



## jddaigle (May 30, 2003)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (Dekz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Dekz* »_
I learned this less than a week ago here in TCL.
A shooting brake is a 2-door station wagon.

Doesn't have to be. It's an old term that pre-dates motor cars, and refers to a vehicle that carries you and your filthy rich friends out to go hunting (shooting). Since the customer base for shooting brakes typically has the honorarium "sir" or "lord" or "duke" at the front of their names, most shooting brakes are made from ultra-luxury cars like Aston Martins or Ferraris. They can have 2 or 4 (or 3 or 5) doors, depending upon what they are based.


----------



## depireux (Feb 4, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (jebglx)*

Why cover/occlude/obstruct/hide the licence tags on pictures?


----------



## dastig (Nov 12, 2004)

What is Mopar. The only thing I know is it has something to do with Dodge.


----------



## Parklife (Feb 23, 1999)

*Re: (dastig)*









"Mopar" started out as Chrysler's *MO*tor *PAR*ts division, which supplied replacement parts for all of the Chrysler Corporation brands at the time - Chrysler, Plymouth, Dodge, and DeSoto (hence the DCPD logo above).
At the time, it was spelled MoPar, and even accentuated as such in the logo.
With time, it became "Mopar", and became a slang for any Chrysler product.
Also, as Chrysler began to make factory performance parts available in the early '70s, they started selling them through dealerships, originally under the sub-brand of "Hustle Stuff". "Hustle Stuff" became "Direct Connection" in the 1980s, and in the 1990s it became known as Mopar Peformance.
Since Dodge is Chrysler's motorsport brand, and Mopar Performance is the line of factory speed parts, that explains why you'll see a lot of vehicles with conspicuous Dodge and Mopar Performance or Mopar badging.


----------



## deevubfreak (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (depireux)*


_Quote, originally posted by *depireux* »_Why cover/occlude/obstruct/hide the licence tags on pictures? 

STALKERS. The internets will still your car!


----------



## AVW128 (May 31, 2002)

*Re: (SVT2888)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SVT2888* »_Um what is JB weld?








Seriously I don't know what it is.


It's the stuff my friends (not me of course) used to squeeze into the door locks of our high school.







Turns anything with moving parts into a rock.


----------



## AVW128 (May 31, 2002)

Question: Can short shifters or the aftermarket short throw shifters damage your transmission? I have heard that they can but I don't know if it is just BS or not. I just ordered a Steeda Tri/Ax for my Focus. Also, are they really all that when it comes to shifting? Do they really make it easier? And if they improve shifting so much why dont manufacturers use them?


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (AVW128)*

wont directly hurt it, but its easier to kill your syncros


----------



## SC_VW (Sep 2, 2005)

*Re: (jebglx)*

what the heck is with the "ban hawc" posts?


----------



## Dekz (Jul 21, 2004)

*Re: (TurboWraith)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TurboWraith* »_wont directly hurt it, but its easier to kill your syncros

How so


----------



## SleeperPrelude (Sep 24, 2005)

*Re: (SC_VW)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SC_VW* »_what the heck is with the "ban hawc" posts?


----------



## SVT2888 (May 17, 2005)

*Re: (SC_VW)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SC_VW* »_what the heck is with the "ban hawc" posts?









Hawc is like the kid at school who wouldn't shut up, would always come up with the stupidest questions, would ask about things no one cared about, and would show off repeatedly that he had something you didn't. That is why when ever he post we in the CL say "Ban Hawc" it is our own special way of saying shut up we don't care.
I hope this clears it up.


----------



## SleeperPrelude (Sep 24, 2005)

*Re: (SVT2888)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SVT2888* »_
I hope this clears it up.

It does.


----------



## JrodVW (Mar 9, 2001)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (Dubai Vol)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Dubai Vol* »_That's because you're too young to rem when transmissions came without synchonisers. The "clutch out in neutral" step is to spin the actual gears in the transmission to the correct speed so they will mesh without grinding. In modern transmission the synchromesh does this for you, but as recently as the 1960s some cars came without synchros. For example MGs of that era had a non-synchro first gear. If you wanted to shift into first while moving you had to double clutch.

In that vein, is "clutch out in neutral" still neccesary for rev matching on modern, synchronized transmisisions? Will the benefit still be reaped leaving the clutch in and blipping the gas?


----------



## JrodVW (Mar 9, 2001)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (JrodVW)*

I have a fresh question here, maybe someone can clarify for me

OK, when a new car is introduced, engineers always tout how it's XXX% Stiffer than before in torsional rigidity and such.
I have a hard time believing that previous designs were SOOOO poor as to account for triple digit increases in this measurement.
So how are these numbers derived? Let's say that they create a front subframe that is 5% stiffer than the previous model, but, I dunno, create door hinge hardware that is 100% stiffer than before. Do they average these out and say the car is 57.5% Stiffer than before?


----------



## escourido (Jul 11, 2005)

*Re: (false_vapor)*


_Quote, originally posted by *false_vapor* »_
Wow. May be there's a geography lesson in order. Europe is several times bigger than GB. GB doesn't = europe same as USA doesn't = world. They don't even want to be considered as part of europe, but want to have EU capital.


Actually as far as I know since the Romans in europe the horses and the people went as the british go today. What happened was that Napoleon knowing the British superiority with Horses decided to change the way of engaging the enemy by the oposite side. The French learned how to fight the other way and that gave them superiority in Battle.
With Napoleon expansion in europe the way of horses to go on the road became to the opossite side and that was kept when cars were introduce.
the commonwealth countries drive like the british, and the USA in its independence decided to USE the French way to ride horses on the street.
Japan due to their large british influence in the Industry Revolution introduce the British way. 
And when automobiles came to replace the horses the way to go in the roads was already standard for the world as Left side of the road or Right side of the road.


----------



## gtivr4 (Sep 22, 2000)

*Re: (escourido)*

I'll post it (yet) again:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rules_of_the_road


----------



## escourido (Jul 11, 2005)

*Re: (gtivr4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtivr4* »_I'll post it (yet) again:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rules_of_the_road


http://www.englisch-hilfen.de/...t.htm

The thing that I said about Napoleon was the person who changed the way and that the British drive the way since the romans is true. Kindly check
I only made note about when the change. And true it was Napoleon , and your link to Wilkepedia mention that only slightly saying that Napoleon was left handed but it was more to that. IT was due to horse battle tactics.


----------



## SC_VW (Sep 2, 2005)

*Re: (SVT2888)*

ohh i see thanks a lot and it does definately clear it up


----------



## BlueNDGold (Jun 20, 2005)

*Re: (SC_VW)*

okay, I want to get clarification on the rules of the CL.
So far I gathered that Rule #1 is to post a picture of the car(s) in question when you start out a thread. Or maybe it's more comprehensive? Perhaps post a picture of whatever you are talking about, i.e. wheels, engine, etc.
Are there more rules besides rule #1?


----------



## gtivr4 (Sep 22, 2000)

*Re: (BlueNDGold)*

Rule #1 is simply to post a picture to get the little camera icon. Basically people tend to click on posts with pictures more. Afterall most of the vortex is actually illiterate (how many times do you read a reply to a thread that is clearly a result of not reading the thread!). A relevant photo is preferred, but anything to get people to read the thread is the idea of rule #1


----------



## chucchinchilla (Dec 25, 2004)

*Re: (gtivr4)*

why do people buy a car for JUST the winter, I understand winter beaters, but couldn't you just get something you can beat on for more than just one season?


----------



## MoochsMalibu (Jun 26, 2003)

*Re: (BlueNDGold)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BlueNDGold* »_
Are there more rules besides rule #1?

Rule # 724 - never leave a Car Lounger stranded in the street wearing a funny sweater they got as a gift from a spouse/mother/in-law/other family.


----------



## G-rocco (Sep 11, 2004)

inspired by another post - why isn't location of gas cap standardized?


----------



## jebglx (Jul 13, 2000)

*Re: (G-rocco)*

what causes a backfire?
i was behind a box panel truck today & every time he hit the slightest bump, the truck backfired...pretty loud & scred the piss out of me the 1st time








bill


----------



## depireux (Feb 4, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (jebglx)*

Who came up with the idea to have both brake lights and turn signals be red. How come even Audi feel for it? When my father brakes, he tends to pump the brakes. When he is also turning, it looks like Christmas lights from behind.


----------



## theKid (Nov 26, 2003)

*Re: (G-rocco)*


_Quote, originally posted by *G-rocco* »_inspired by another post - why isn't location of gas cap standardized?

well if everyone entered and exited the gas station in the same direction it would enable both sides of the pumps to be used
that's my guess


----------



## depireux (Feb 4, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (jebglx)*

Why is the brake pedal higher (farther back) than the accelerator? When you brake in an emergency, you first have to pull your foot back, instead of being to slip it sideways onto the brake pedal.


----------



## sweatyworker (May 4, 2005)

What's the deal/story with the Oh Really Owl?


----------



## Markasaurus! (May 25, 2005)

*Re: (chucchinchilla)*


_Quote, originally posted by *chucchinchilla* »_why do people buy a car for JUST the winter, I understand winter beaters, but couldn't you just get something you can beat on for more than just one season?

I presume it originated from people with daily drivers such as a miata, s2000, etc which won't work so well in the snow what with the soft top and all.


----------



## jtmgli (Oct 18, 2003)

*Re: (gtivr4)*

I thought that untill Ford came out with the Model T that american built cars were both RHD and LHD, but do to the popularity of the Model T all American cars became LHD?


----------



## 4x4s (Dec 18, 2003)

*Re: (sweatyworker)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sweatyworker* »_What's the deal/story with the Oh Really Owl?

And simlarly on-topic, who's idea was it to pack cocktail olives in those skinny little jars that no one can get their fingers into? I wonder about this every time I make my evening martini.


----------



## enriquejcu (Sep 16, 2004)

What/when was the first forced induction production car?


----------



## Strictly Gravy (Mar 15, 2003)

*Re: (nourdmrolnmt1)*

What does 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton, 1 ton denotations mean for trucks/axles? I kno bigger is better, but where does the tonnage come from?


----------



## shftat6 (Oct 9, 2000)

*Re: (Strictly Gravy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Strictly Gravy* »_What does 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton, 1 ton denotations mean for trucks/axles? I kno bigger is better, but where does the tonnage come from?


How much they are rated to carry....though anymore, they will all hold a hell of a lot more than those numbers suggest. I think they keep the same designations because that is how they have been named for so long.


----------



## shftat6 (Oct 9, 2000)

*Re: (4x4s)*


_Quote, originally posted by *4x4s* »_
And simlarly on-topic, who's idea was it to pack cocktail olives in those skinny little jars that no one can get their fingers into? I wonder about this every time I make my evening martini.

Anyone remember the Flintstones episode in which Wilam was reading the classifieds and saw two help wanted ads...
One for a person with skinny fingers to put cotton into medicine bottles.
And one for a person with skinny fingers to take the cotton out of medicine bottles.


----------



## sieben (Nov 23, 2002)

*Re: (G-rocco)*


_Quote, originally posted by *G-rocco* »_inspired by another post - why isn't location of gas cap standardized?

they often are-- according to the (nominal) country where the car is produced.
European cars have it on the right side (honestly I don't know about British, but some Jags have a gas cap on both sides....)
Japanese have it on the left side.
Both of those are the "passenger side" in their home countries.
However, some "Japanese" cars made in the US have it on the right side also. So you could walk into a Mazda or Nissan dealer and possibly see cars with the gas cap on either side.
As for truly US cars (Mustangs, Explorers, Suburbans) I believe it is random.


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (jebglx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jebglx* »_what causes a backfire?
i was behind a box panel truck today & every time he hit the slightest bump, the truck backfired...pretty loud & scred the piss out of me the 1st time








bill

in high school physics class i was told it was caused by, a leak in the exhaust line somewhere between the head and muffler, draws air(oxygen) into the muffler where it forms a combustible mixture with unburnt fuel, and the occasional spark ignites it after she warms up a bit.
im sure it can be caused by other things...but that is one of em. on another note gurgle you hear sometimes is caused by a vacuum in the exhaust system when the engine slows down. air is actually drawn back towards the head.


----------



## depireux (Feb 4, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (jebglx)*

Soooo, Why is the brake pedal farther back than the accelerator? When you brake in an emergency, you first have to pull your foot back, instead of slipping it sideways and letting it fall onto the brake pedal.


----------



## JSMGLX (Mar 3, 2003)

*Re: (GTS2nd20l)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GTS2nd20l* »_

*Wronge*.
*There* on just about any HD Truck engine 95+.
Seriously, take the head off a Cummins ISX......Hey look! A Jake Brake! 
Some JBs come *intergrated* in the Feedback systems of recent BIg *Diesles*. 
It basically works on the fact its just another *vavle*. Driver hits switch, *vavle* opens in the head, on any Stroke on all cylinders and just dumps it all out the exhuast.
Cutting power, making it easier to brake those big *??*shats*??*.

Spelling is not your strong point I see...


----------



## GTIcharlie (Jul 27, 2004)

maybe ill be the first in here (maybe),,,BAN HAWC


----------



## konigwheels (Nov 12, 2002)

*Re: (GTIcharlie)*

there was an earlier post about the chassis codes of bmw, for instance e21, e30, e36, and e46 for the 3 series. how do they come up with these?
what exactly is trail braking?


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (konigwheels)*


_Quote, originally posted by *konigwheels* »_there was an earlier post about the chassis codes of bmw, for instance e21, e30, e36, and e46 for the 3 series. how do they come up with these?
what exactly is trail braking?

no idea about the bimmers, but trail braking is applying the brakes through a corner to help the car rotate around. pretty much does the same thing as lift throttle oversteer, but you dont have to gun the engine first. 
generally very hard to do correctly.


----------



## Mikedav (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: (konigwheels)*


_Quote, originally posted by *konigwheels* »_there was an earlier post about the chassis codes of bmw, for instance e21, e30, e36, and e46 for the 3 series. how do they come up with these?

Series Generations
Internally, BMW associates an "e-code" for each generation of a series ("E" stands for Entwicklung, German for development or evolution). These "chassis codes" only change to signify a major redesign of a series, or the introduction of a new series.
* BMW E3 - (1968-1977) 2.5, 2.8, 3.0, 3.3 "New Six" sedans
* BMW E9 - (1969-1975) 2800CS, 3.0CS, 3.0CSL "New Six" coupés
* BMW E12 - (1972-1981) 5 Series
* BMW E21 - (1975-1985) 3 Series
* BMW E23 - (1977-1986) 7 Series
* BMW E24 - (1976-1989) 6 Series
* BMW E26 - (1978-1981) M1
* BMW E28 - (1981-1988) 5 Series
* BMW E30 - (1984-1991) 3 Series
* BMW E31 - (1990-1999) 8 Series
* BMW E32 - (1986-1994) 7 Series
* BMW E34 - (1988-1995) 5 Series
* BMW E36 - (1992-1999) 3 Series
* BMW E38 - (1994-2001) 7 Series
* BMW E39 - (1997-2003) 5 Series
* BMW E46 - (1999-2005) 3 Series
* BMW E52 - (2000-2004) Z8
* BMW E53 - (2000-present) X5
* BMW E60 - (2004-present) 5 Series
* BMW E63 - (2004-present) 6 Series coupe
* BMW E64 - (2004-present) 6 Series convertible
* BMW E65 - (2002-present) 7 Series short wheel base
* BMW E66 - (2002-present) 7 Series long wheel base
* BMW E70 - future X5
* BMW E83 - (2004-present) X3
* BMW E85 - (2003-present) Z4
* BMW E87 - (2004-present) 1 Series
* BMW E90 - (2005-present) 3 Series


----------



## Golgo-13 (Aug 20, 2003)

*Re:*

Ok... It's page 10, but I'll ask a question where someone will (hopefully) give me an on-topic answer...
As I don't know how to drive a standard, what are some lux, sporty cars (sedans, coupes) that are between $30k-$40 that can be driven with auto or DSG/SMG/etc? My Passat "<----" is a great ride but am considering something new/better.
The Lexus IS 250awd/350
3 Series with auto
Pre-2005 A4 3.0 with auto
TL with auto
The cheaper, the better... Has to be a premium mark though.


----------



## false_vapor (Aug 2, 2002)

*Re: (Mikedav)*

Ok. Noob question:
Physics says traction doesn't depend on contact area (size) - only weight and the coefficient blah blah. So why do cars like Veyron need that wide tires (besides wear)?


----------



## ubermensch (Dec 21, 2004)

*Re: (false_vapor)*


_Quote, originally posted by *false_vapor* »_Ok. Noob question:
Physics says traction doesn't depend on contact area (size) - only weight and the coefficient blah blah. So why do cars like Veyron need that wide tires (besides wear)?

They don't _need _them. Ever seen a Prowler? Talk about overkill!!


----------



## gizmopop (Feb 6, 2000)

*Re: (false_vapor)*


_Quote, originally posted by *false_vapor* »_Ok. Noob question:
Physics says traction doesn't depend on contact area (size) - only weight and the coefficient blah blah. So why do cars like Veyron need that wide tires (besides wear)?

the more the better...a 44 mhz sound sample is crisper/clearer(has more fidelity) than a 22 mhz sample... same thing applies to why a the tires are wider...
is it easier to hold on to something with 1 finger or 5 or 10?
when taking a curve is your car more responsive to input in a lower gear(higher engine revs) or a higher gear(lower engine revs)?


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (false_vapor)*


_Quote, originally posted by *false_vapor* »_Ok. Noob question:
Physics says traction doesn't depend on contact area (size) - only weight and the coefficient blah blah. So why do cars like Veyron need that wide tires (besides wear)?

in physics class they are talking about friction. traction and friction and 2 differnt things.
and the other reason is heat buildup. narrow tires will heat up and get greasy really fast.


----------



## vwgtirob (Aug 16, 2001)

*Re: (false_vapor)*


_Quote, originally posted by *false_vapor* »_Ok. Noob question:
Physics says traction doesn't depend on contact area (size) - only weight and the coefficient blah blah. So why do cars like Veyron need that wide tires (besides wear)?

Err, editing my post for a less-confusing response:
The contact area matters for the static friction of soft materials like tires (the force needed to get the tires moving with respect to the ground).
This is somewhat confusing, but realize that the tires ideally are not moving with the ground (they're rolling over it), and the contact patch moves, but the contact patch itself is not moving with respect to the ground.
There's the issue of rolling friction, but that's even more complex.


_Modified by vwgtirob at 1:40 PM 12-1-2005_


----------



## depireux (Feb 4, 2002)

*Re: (false_vapor)*


_Quote, originally posted by *false_vapor* »_Ok. Noob question:
Physics says traction doesn't depend on contact area (size) - only weight and the coefficient blah blah. So why do cars like Veyron need that wide tires (besides wear)?

You're right, but there are 2 things you have not mentioned. 
0) Asphalt is not a uniform surface. Even with steamrollers to flatten the asphalt, the surface is still somewhat irregular, especially over the width of a tire. You increase the probability of making continuous contact with the road by using a wider tire. 
But more importantly, 
1) The main reason relates to composition. Soft compound tires are required to be wider in order for the side-wall to support the weight of the car. Softer tires have a larger coefficient of friction, therefore better traction. A narrow, soft tire would not be strong enough, nor would it last very long. Wear in a tire is related to contact patch. Harder compound tires wear much longer, and can be narrower. They do, however have a lower coefficient of friction, therefore less traction. Among tires of the same type and composition, here is no appreciable difference in 'traction' with different widths. Wider tires, assuming all other factors are equal, commonly have stiffer side-walls and experience less roll. This gives better cornering performance.


----------



## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

*Re: (depireux)*

I'll add more on the contact patch debate:
Unlike what you learned in physics class about static and dynamic friction forces being independent of contact patch area, rubber and asphalt interact in a much more complex fasion. The rubber actually digs into the pores and holes of the ashpalt and deforms somewhat under force. This is also the reason for why slip angles of 6-10% give the greatest tractive force. I have a race driving techniques book at home that explains the physics of the question very well, but I can't remember all the details off the top of my head.


----------



## Golgo-13 (Aug 20, 2003)

*Re:*

Will someone answer my question?


----------



## Seitan (Nov 1, 2002)

*Re: (IJM)*

ok, I've got two questions...
#1 I understand diesels are different than gas engines, but what really makes them different, and a followup, is it possible, at any level, to run diesel in a gas car or gas in a diesel car?
#2 I forgot lol...I'll get back to you on this one.


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (silvERia)*


_Quote, originally posted by *silvERia* »_ok, I've got two questions...
#1 I understand diesels are different than gas engines, but what really makes them different, and a followup, is it possible, at any level, to run diesel in a gas car or gas in a diesel car?
#2 I forgot lol...I'll get back to you on this one.

difference between the 2 is very simple really. one has a spark plug, one doesnt. 
but more than that, all modern diesels are DI rather than multi port like most gassers are (there are a few newer ones out there i know). DI allows complete timing control (especially in a high pressure rail system or HUEI system - not going to get into those though) so you never have to worry about knock or pre-ignition, the fuel is injected exactly when it needs to be.
diesels dont have throttle bodies, they are throttled with the fuel system rather than the induction system. most are turbo'd today, but they dont have to be. 
as far as interior dimensions, diesel engies generally have more stroke than a same displacement gasoline engine. this is to compensate for the way diesel burns as compared to gas. that is, more of a long burn than a quick explosion.
and.. (ive done this, on purpose to see what happens) its possible to run a diesel engine on gas without any modification. its kinda hard to start it cold, but we started on diesel first and the moved over to 87 oct gas and it kept running. this wasnt very good on the fuel system though because unleaded gas doesnt have much natural lubercant to keep the fuel pumps happy.
to make a gasoline engine run on diesel would require a significant redesign. without DI it could be done, but the dimensions of the cylinder probably wouldnt cooperate and you could end up 'bottoming out' the piston rod. the burn could last longer than the downward stroke and really do a number on the bearings. 

that was really long, hope it made sense.


----------



## Seitan (Nov 1, 2002)

*Re: (TurboWraith)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TurboWraith* »_that was really long, hope it made sense.

thanks, it all made sense, one question I have though, I guess I just don't understand how the diesel gets burned without a spark plug, what is used in its place?


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## CosmicTDI (Oct 9, 2005)

*Re: (silvERia)*


_Quote, originally posted by *silvERia* »_thanks, it all made sense, one question I have though, I guess I just don't understand how the diesel gets burned without a spark plug, what is used in its place?

A gasoline engine intakes a mixture of gas and air, compresses it and ignites the mixture with a spark. 
A diesel engine takes in just air, compresses it and then injects fuel into the compressed air. The heat of the compressed air lights the fuel spontaneously.


----------



## 4thvw (Jan 4, 2004)

*Re: (silvERia)*

Nothing is used in place of spark plugs, fuel is injected on the compression stroke and detonates all by itself since the compression ratio is so high. This is what gives Diesel's the characteristic clattering sound(similar to a car running fuel with too low an octane rating).


----------



## Seitan (Nov 1, 2002)

gocha, thank you both for the replies, this all makes so much more sense to me now...so is this why I was told (a looong time ago) that diesels had to be perfectly airtight?


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## 4thvw (Jan 4, 2004)

*Re: (silvERia)*


_Quote, originally posted by *silvERia* »_so is this why I was told (a looong time ago) that diesels had to be perfectly airtight?

Don't know about this, I have never heard that one. Any engine needs to be "air tight" with resect to combustion chamber sealing.



_Modified by 4thvw at 2:17 PM 12-1-2005_


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## Seitan (Nov 1, 2002)

*Re: (4thvw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *4thvw* »_
Don't know about this, I have never heard that one. Any engine needs to be "air tight" with resect to comustion chamber sealing.


yeah I was probably 12 or 13 when I was told this so i'm likely forgetting something, but it went along the lines of "if you ever have to do any repairs to the engine, you have to pressurize the cylinders before you can run it again, otherwise it won't run if it's not airtight and there is pressure" or something like that...who knows


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## M.Diesel (Dec 18, 2003)

*Re: (G-rocco)*


_Quote, originally posted by *G-rocco* »_inspired by another post - why isn't location of gas cap standardized?

They are. The filler cap is located on the opposite side of the exhaust (to keep the potential of fumes meeting heat to a minimum). The only problem is not every cars exhaust exits the same side of the vehicle, thus why some are on the driver's side and some the passenger's side. How they determine where to put the filler cap on a dual exhaust car I do not know.
Why people tow saturns behind rv's....Saturns are one of the only vehicle you could flat tow w/o havng to add an additional tranny cooler. Jeeps, because of the true neutral selection in their transfer cases, can be flat towed as well.


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## false_vapor (Aug 2, 2002)

*Re: (TurboWraith)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TurboWraith* »_in physics class they are talking about friction. traction and friction and 2 differnt things.
and the other reason is heat buildup. narrow tires will heat up and get greasy really fast.








Doh!!!! friction right! You can see english isn't my first language.


----------



## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

*Re: (false_vapor)*

What makes a positive grounding electrical system seem so complicated? Is it essentially a negative grounded system, just reversed?


----------



## Dubai Vol (Jan 8, 2002)

*Re: (false_vapor)*

The physics of tire friction is more complicated than the basic model of coefficient of friction, weight, and contact area.
This is an important question and I hope you will all take the time to read this.
According to the classical physics model you get the same friction force if you run your Cadillac on bicycle tires. Clearly this is not true. So why is this? Because the classic model is WRONG! Nothing new there, Newton's laws of motion are also wrong, as exposed by Einstein. the difference is that Newton's "laws" are close enough until you get near the speed of light, while the rubber on pavement friction "law" as defined by classic physics is exposed as wrong in simple real world situations. Put wider tires on your car and you get more grip, even though the classic model says you shouldn't.
Lesson: Scientific "laws" are just man's way of describing what he sees, NOT an actual "law" of the universe. Engineers (like me) use the "laws" because they predict the outcome reliably, but a smart engineer knows the limitations of the "laws" because they are NOT correct in ALL situations. They are just convenient approximations based on observation.


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## GTIcharlie (Jul 27, 2004)

two Questions
1) Whats the VW kool aid 
-








2) why do people love the TDI so much? I thought they were slow


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## Goonster (Oct 30, 2004)

*Re: (GTIcharlie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GTIcharlie* »_ why do people love the TDI so much? I thought they were slow

Short answer: torque
Alternate view:
Waste vegetable oil: Free
Biodiesel homebrew reactor: $300
Not being the oil companies' b1tch: Priceless











_Modified by Goonster at 10:12 PM 12-3-2005_


----------



## Pelko (Nov 17, 2005)

Why do I get 18mpg from my Suzuki XL-7 if it's only a 2.7 V6


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## mk_ultra' (Oct 10, 2004)

*Re: (GTIcharlie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GTIcharlie* »_two Questions
1) Whats the VW kool aid 
-








2) why do people love the TDI so much? I thought they were slow

Yeah wtf is the VW kool aid ?


----------



## Langers (Jul 21, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (JrodVW)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JrodVW* »_I have a fresh question here, maybe someone can clarify for me

OK, when a new car is introduced, engineers always tout how it's XXX% Stiffer than before in torsional rigidity and such.
I have a hard time believing that previous designs were SOOOO poor as to account for triple digit increases in this measurement.
So how are these numbers derived? Let's say that they create a front subframe that is 5% stiffer than the previous model, but, I dunno, create door hinge hardware that is 100% stiffer than before. Do they average these out and say the car is 57.5% Stiffer than before?


The rigidity of the chassis is measured by putting it on a rig and measuring how much the chassis deflects for a certain force applied.


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## Langers (Jul 21, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (depireux)*


_Quote, originally posted by *depireux* »_Why is the brake pedal higher (farther back) than the accelerator? When you brake in an emergency, you first have to pull your foot back, instead of being to slip it sideways onto the brake pedal.

Could be just your car. Second, if it were the other way around in a manual car, you would not be able to heel-toe.


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## Robb13 (Nov 17, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (depireux)*


_Quote, originally posted by *depireux* »_Soooo, Why is the brake pedal farther back than the accelerator? When you brake in an emergency, you first have to pull your foot back, instead of slipping it sideways and letting it fall onto the brake pedal.

I would think, not sure though, that it would be just for that reason. I would not want my foot to slip off of the gas pedal and hit the brakes at some point by accident.
I've had my foot slip off the clutch when the mechanic drove my car after stepping in oil, that wasn't much fun.


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## 42718dad (May 20, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (Robb13)*

What is a "dirty sanchez?"


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## mk_ultra' (Oct 10, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (42718dad)*


_Quote, originally posted by *42718dad* »_What is a "dirty sanchez?"









LMFAO


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## Markasaurus! (May 25, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (42718dad)*


_Quote, originally posted by *42718dad* »_What is a "dirty sanchez?"









Isn't it a **** moustache?


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## Pelko (Nov 17, 2005)

*Re: (Pelko)*

Why do I get 18mpg from my Suzuki XL-7, if it's only a 2.7 V6


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## NYCgolf (Nov 11, 2001)

*Re: (Pelko)*

weight, gearing, driving style








_Quote, originally posted by *Pelko* »_Why do I get 18mpg from my Suzuki XL-7, if it's only a 2.7 V6


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## Pelko (Nov 17, 2005)

*Re: (NYCgolf)*

a Suzuki XL-7 is not that heavy. it's a "compact SUV", about the gearing, sometimes I turn off the O/D, and driving style....I dont really speed, I just never brake on turns. but no O/D gives me even less mpg.


_Modified by Pelko at 10:24 AM 12-4-2005_


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (Pelko)*

dude, it does weigh 3825 lbs


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## Pelko (Nov 17, 2005)

*Re: (TurboWraith)*

so....is that a lot? I dont really too much about car weights.


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## THE KILLER RABBIT (Jun 2, 2003)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (Markasaurus!)*

what is a torque converter


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## THE KILLER RABBIT (Jun 2, 2003)

*Re: (Pelko)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Pelko* »_a Suzuki XL-7 is not that heavy. it's a "compact SUV", about the gearing, sometimes I turn off the O/D, and driving style....I dont really speed, I just never brake on turns. but no O/D gives me even less mpg.

_Modified by Pelko at 10:24 AM 12-4-2005_

o/d locks the car out of the final gear,.an exreame example would be u only have 2 forward gears, o/d would lock it out of 2nd and u would be ridding around in 1st all the time at some extreame rpm, the higher the rpm, the worse the milage


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## SnareTan (Aug 15, 2005)

*Re: (chetacer)*


_Quote, originally posted by *chetacer* »_Why in Michigan are there "no left turn" type signs (left arrow with strike through it) at every on-ramp onto the interstate? Is this just a Michigan thing, or is it across other states?
I would think that if you were merging onto an interstate you would know not to turn left into oncoming traffic, but that's just me.









I was driving northbound on I-75 once a bit after 10 at night one summer (this is in FL). Next thing I know, I see headlights in the left lane and I'm in the right. We fly by each other with both of us going 70mph. I was flashing my lights and honking my horn and trying to clue the person in that they had somehow turned left at the end of the merge ramp to go the wrong way. Though I'm not sure if there is a no left sign there, there needs to be because it does happen.
Tan


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## VW-BMW (Dec 18, 2001)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (JrodVW)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JrodVW* »_
In that vein, is "clutch out in neutral" still neccesary for rev matching on modern, synchronized transmisisions? Will the benefit still be reaped leaving the clutch in and blipping the gas? 

Yes and no. You'll save syncro wear by rev matching with the clutch out, but it is not necessary. Rev matching is mainly for matching engine speed to vehicle speed in the gear you are about to select so the engine does not change speed when you let the clutch out. This prevents adding forces to the driveline/wheels while shifting. You don't want to change the status quo abruptly to the tires when they are already at the limit of adhesion. 
A split second of engine braking while the driveline brings the engine up to speed as you let the clutch out can spin you out at the limit. Also a split second of acceleration if the rpms are too high can do the same thing - this is why drifters repeatidly pop the clutch at full throttle during a drift.


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (my merc 4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *my merc 4* »_what is a torque converter

TQ is a vicous coupling. serves the same function as a clutch, that is to disconnect the engine from the trans and vice versa.
modern TQ have 3 main parts, impeller (driven off engine flywheel), turbine("catches" fluid spun from impeller), and the stator(redirects fluid caught from the turbine back to the impeller, doing so multiplies torque)
read more here if you want.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/torque-converter.htm


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## Pelko (Nov 17, 2005)

*Re: (my merc 4)*

My sister's got a New Beetle, I wanna know why the engine started smoking after a few hours of me playing with the handbrake and smoking the tires.


_Modified by Pelko at 3:25 PM 12-4-2005_


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## Markasaurus! (May 25, 2005)

*Re: (Pelko)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Pelko* »_so....is that a lot? I dont really too much about car weights. 

Yes. For reference, my Accord weighs in at 2600 lbs.


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (Pelko)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Pelko* »_My sister's got a New Beetle, I wanna know why the engine started smoking after a few hours of me playing with the handbrake and smoking the tires.

_Modified by Pelko at 3:25 PM 12-4-2005_

probably because you are a 15 yr old without a liscence who abused the car to the point of it dying.


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## SteveMKIIDub (Nov 6, 2003)

*Re: (Pelko)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Pelko* »_My sister's got a New Beetle, I wanna know why the engine started smoking after a few hours of me playing with the handbrake and smoking the tires.

_Modified by Pelko at 3:25 PM 12-4-2005_


Cause your a dink and shouldn't treat someone elses car that way..


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## GTIcharlie (Jul 27, 2004)

*Re: (SteveMKIIDub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SteveMKIIDub* »_

Cause your a dink and shouldn't treat someone elses car that way..


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## MoochsMalibu (Jun 26, 2003)

*Re: (Pelko)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Pelko* »_a Suzuki XL-7 is not that heavy. it's a "compact SUV", about the gearing, sometimes I turn off the O/D, and driving style....I dont really speed, I just never brake on turns. but no O/D gives me even less mpg.

Sometimes its not about "speeding," but how fast you get to that speed. If I wanted to mash the accelerator from every stop sign and light on Long Island to reach 40mph before having to stop all over again I'd be wasting a hell of a lot more gas then if I took my time and let the tranny shift early b/c I don't need that many rpms to keep me rolling to the next red light.


_Modified by MoochsMalibu at 9:46 PM 12-4-2005_


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## Pelko (Nov 17, 2005)

*Re: (GTIcharlie)*

come on... out of the $16,000 my sister spent on that car, $7000 is money that I gave to her (modeling gives good money). I have every bit of right to do whatever I want to that car, just like my sister has every right to do whatever she want to that car.


_Modified by Pelko at 11:48 AM 12-5-2005_


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (Pelko)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Pelko* »_come on... out of the $16,000 my sister spent on that car, $7000 is money that I gave to her (modeling gives good money). I have every bit of right to do whatever I want to that car, just like my sister.


You have a lot to learn.
Ill be laughing when you get that WRX you want so bad and grenade the drivetrain doing suicide launches.


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## Pelko (Nov 17, 2005)

*Re: (TurboWraith)*

Actually, I love Subarus, I wouldn't do anything that could damage ANY Subaru.


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## MoochsMalibu (Jun 26, 2003)

*Re: (TurboWraith)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TurboWraith* »_You have a lot to learn.
Ill be laughing when you get that WRX you want so bad and grenade the drivetrain doing suicide launches.

I was thinking rainy day all-wheel drift into a telephone poll, b/c of lack of experience and thinking AWD always gives you super-car traction, but grenading sounds funny too.


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## 4thvw (Jan 4, 2004)

*Re: (Pelko)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Pelko* »_ (modeling gives good money)

He's a model!


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## Markasaurus! (May 25, 2005)

*Re: (4thvw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *4thvw* »_
He's a model!









Yes.. but what _kind_ of model is the question.


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## SteveMKIIDub (Nov 6, 2003)

*Re: (Pelko)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Pelko* »_come on... out of the $16,000 my sister spent on that car, $7000 is money that I gave to her (modeling gives good money). I have every bit of right to do whatever I want to that car, just like my sister.

You have every right to do whatever you want to your sister?


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## JustinCSVT (Oct 3, 2004)

*Re: (Markasaurus!)*

How come my fuel mileage doesn't change no matter how I drive the car?
I could drive a whole tank shifting below 3000rpm and going WOT once or twice and still get the same mileage as I do when shifting at 5000rpm and going WOT many times.

Also, are all B5 A4 1.8T's affected by oil sludge? Is it that common of a problem for those cars? My brother is looking for one and I don't want the engine to blow on his first car.


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (JustinCSVT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JustinCSVT* »_Also, are all B5 A4 1.8T's affected by oil sludge? Is it that common of a problem for those cars? My brother is looking for one and I don't want the engine to blow on his first car.

no, but i couldnt tell you what model year they fixed it.


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## Kafer Wolf (Aug 1, 2002)

*Re: (4thvw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *4thvw* »_
He's a model!










_Quote, originally posted by *Markasaurus!* »_
Yes.. but what _kind_ of model is the question. 


_Quote, originally posted by *SteveMKIIDub* »_
You have every right to do whatever you want to your sister?










anyone care to connect the dots?


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (Kafer Wolf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Kafer Wolf* »_anyone care to connect the dots?









heheh....I dont want to implicate anyone, but..

i bet he buys a wagon 'rex, if you know what i mean.


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## Devious-Veedub (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (MoochsMalibu)*

and modelling doesn't pay good money. If i did it for the money, i'd be broke. There's only money in modelling if you're Tyra Banks or Letitia Casta..
And, since you're 15, you're not allowed to model for money. So in reality, it's your parents money!










_Modified by Devious-Veedub at 9:58 PM 12-4-2005_


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## ClassyVr6 (Sep 15, 2004)

*Re: (Devious-Veedub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Pelko* »_come on... out of the $16,000 my sister spent on that car, $7000 is money that I gave to her (modeling gives good money). I have every bit of right to do whatever I want to that car, just like my sister.

But why would you? Toolbox


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## SC_VW (Sep 2, 2005)

*Re: (ClassyVr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ClassyVr6* »_
But why would you? Toolbox
















seriously why would you treat a car like that? im 17 and according to every stereotype ever im supposed to be crashing cars and doing stupid stuff to it, but i treat my car like a baby


----------



## munkey (Apr 30, 2004)

*Re: (SC_VW)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SC_VW* »_seriously why would you treat a car like that? im 17 and according to every stereotype ever im supposed to be crashing cars and doing stupid stuff to it, but i treat my car like a baby









would you wax a baby?

*I DIDN'T THINK SO!!!*















is it me, or does it sound like the guy's whole family dosen't know squat about how to treat cars.


----------



## GDJ (Oct 21, 2003)

*Re: (munkey)*

ok I've always wondered this: How many sides does the die have in an original Magic 8 ball?
Oh, and why doesn't anyone bother with RWD drivetrains anymore? 
AND, why don't we have a 4 door LS2/T56 powered sports car like the Australians?!


----------



## 4thvw (Jan 4, 2004)

*Re: (GDJ)*

Why is it so many Car-Lounger's don't seem to know dick about cars?


----------



## Pelko (Nov 17, 2005)

*Re: (4thvw)*

who said that i'm not allowed to model for money?? all my life I modeled cloth from stores like "old navy"(which I hate) on different countries, and they do pay you. Thats how I got to raise $14,000 for my first car.


----------



## Devious-Veedub (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (Pelko)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Pelko* »_who said that i'm not allowed to model for money?? all my life I modeled cloth from stores like "old navy"(which I hate) on different countries, and they do pay you. Thats how I got to raise $14,000 for my first car.

Sure, I'll give you the benefit of the doubt that you're a model. If you are 15 tho, your parents control your assets and you cannot make money without their consent. I started when i was 18, so the few pennies i did make, went into my own pocket. However it did not cover the travelling and photography expenses. It's more of a hobby than anything else. So what agency are you with? I know for a fact that you NEED an agency in order to be signed into a contract with Old Navy.


----------



## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

Not to get away from the off-topic banter going on, but what the hell is the/a N75 (1.8t reference)?


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (abawp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *abawp* »_Not to get away from the off-topic banter going on, but what the hell is the/a N75 (1.8t reference)?

electroic wastegate controller, pretty much is the last component in the system for boost level control. 
can be replacedby either mechanical or electronic 'boost controller'. usually replacements are adjustable and allow more tuning, but because the engine is controlled completely electronicly, you have to change many other things within the ecm to increase boost successfully.

and for the record. the modeling kid, im setting money on him never buying a WRX.


----------



## Boston Chuck (Dec 13, 2001)

*Re: (my merc 4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *my merc 4* »_o/d locks the car out of the final gear,.an exreame example would be u only have 2 forward gears, o/d would lock it out of 2nd and u would be ridding around in 1st all the time at some extreame rpm, the higher the rpm, the worse the milage

I think you have it backwards. O/D enables access to the final gear. Thus, in an automatic transmission car, using O/D _lowers_ highway cruising rpm and _improves_ fuel mileage. If you're concerned about gas mileage, you should keep O/D _on_.
More technically: "overdrive" is any gear with a ratio of less than 1.00:1.00. Lower gear ratio = "taller" gear = lower rpm when cruising. Higher gear ratio = "shorter" gear = higher rpm when cruising. An example 1st gear ratio would be 2.97:1.00. An example 5th (aka "overdrive") gear ratio would be 0.84:1.00.
Now for my question, which I've asked before, but never gotten an answer to:
What causes valve tick?
Or... what is valve tick?


----------



## depireux (Feb 4, 2002)

*Re: (4thvw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *4thvw* »_Why is it so many Car-Lounger's don't seem to know dick about cars?

Which is why we are here. To ax and learn.


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (Boston Chuck)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Boston Chuck* »_Now for my question, which I've asked before, but never gotten an answer to:
What causes valve tick?
Or... what is valve tick?

tick is caused by the rocker assmbly/lifters (depending on OHV or OHC) hitting the tappets on the valves each revoltion of the cam lobe. they are not fully pressed together all the time, thats why there is a valve lash spec. there is supposed to be around .1-.5mm of space between the rocker and valve tappet when the vavlve is closed. 
so, valve tick it pretty normal, you should always hear it. it does get louder though when it falls out of spec and the clearence gets larger. thus allowing more space for the rocker to smack against the valve tappet harder. thats what causes the ticking sound.
really not a huge problem, but if it goes far enough (especially on a pushrod engine) the rod or lifter can fall out of the seat on the rocker assmebly and then you get problems.


----------



## JayB (Dec 15, 2001)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (jebglx)*

I'm still baffled by an 86 Audi 4000 I drove 145,000 trouble free miles. Consumer Reports, 60 Minutes (Audi 5000) and the rest of the Free World had very little to say in positive form regarding this car and I'd pay 10 times it's value to have it back. The oddity with the car was that every 3,000 miles I'd change the oil and every 3,000 miles pure golden honey would flow from the pan. I swear the oil never looked as though it was ever heated or under any sort of distress. What went in looked like what came out and it has stumped me since the day I let it go. What was so magical about that motor?







Were they magical GRITS?


----------



## Little Byron (Nov 10, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (JayB)*

Why do g-60's break so damn often?


----------



## depireux (Feb 4, 2002)

*Re: (Dubai Vol)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Dubai Vol* »_
According to the classical physics model you get the same friction force if you run your Cadillac on bicycle tires. Clearly this is not true. So why is this? Because the classic model is WRONG! 

The model is not wrong, it's just too simple. No physicist in his right mind will believe that Newton's 3 laws describe everything under the sun. We have laws and limits of applicability. Even general relativity is wrong, according to your definition, since it can't be reconciled with quantum mechanics. But if you are willing to accept there are limits to every theory, then you can make progress and you wind up with things like GPS.


----------



## 4x4s (Dec 18, 2003)

*Re: (depireux)*


_Quote, originally posted by *depireux* »_
The model is not wrong, it's just too simple. No physicist in his right mind will believe that Newton's 3 laws describe everything under the sun. We have laws and limits of applicability. Even general relativity is wrong, according to your definition, since it can't be reconciled with quantum mechanics. *But if you are willing to accept there are limits to every theory, then you can make progress and you wind up with things like GPS.*

Good post. GPS would not work without applying Einsteins theory of relativity in two ways. First to compensate for the relativistic effects of the orbital speed of the satellites, and second to compensate for relativistic effects of gravity. Fascinating stuff, really.


----------



## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

I can't exactly remember who said it, or where in this particular thread it is located, so I will bring up the gas cap question again.
If the standard for gas caps is to put it as far away from the gas cap as possible, why do US-Spec civics (89-91 body style) and integras (88?-93? 1st and 2nd gen) deviate from this standard?


----------



## Kafer Wolf (Aug 1, 2002)

*Re: (abawp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *abawp* »_
If the standard for gas caps is to put it as far away from the gas cap as possible, why do US-Spec civics (89-91 body style) and integras (88?-93? 1st and 2nd gen) deviate from this standard?

what? gas caps to be placed as far away from the gas cap?


----------



## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

*Re: (Kafer Wolf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Kafer Wolf* »_what? gas caps to be placed as far away from the gas cap? 

woops, let me re-write:
If the standard for gas caps is to put it as far away from the *exhaust tip* as possible, why do US-Spec civics (89-91 body style) and integras (88?-93? 1st and 2nd gen) deviate from this standard?


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (abawp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *abawp* »_
woops, let me re-write:
If the standard for gas caps is to put it as far away from the *exhaust tip* as possible, why do US-Spec civics (89-91 body style) and integras (88?-93? 1st and 2nd gen) deviate from this standard?

lol, i never noticed that was a standard thing. i have no idea.


----------



## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

I didn't realize it was either, until someone pointed it out several pages back, and then I started to notice this. Every car I have seen, with the exception of the ones I listed, follow this trend, which makes me think that its not the usual Vortex vomit.


----------



## VW97Jetta (Sep 5, 2002)

*Re: (Four Speed Fox)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Four Speed Fox* »_Dumbass.
That's Brock Yates. I'm the guy standing next to him. 

Oddly enough, you don't look much like Brock...


----------



## sieben (Nov 23, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (JUSTINCASE1021)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JUSTINCASE1021* »_why were some 2002 golfs called the "337" ???

http://www.edmunds.com/news/au....html
2002 Volkswagen GTI 337 Edition
What is it?
2002 Volkswagen GTI 337 Edition
What's special about it?
Last year, VW celebrated the GTI's 25th anniversary (in Europe) with a special edition of that car. This GTI is based loosely on the birthday special and gets its "337" name from the original code number used for the Golf (known initially as the Rabbit here in the States) when it debuted back in 1975.
Available only in Reflex Silver, the GTI 337 will have a number of features not available on the standard GTI, including 18-inch wheels with 225/40VR18 performance rubber, a ground effects kit, tinted taillights and red brake calipers. Red accents continue inside the cockpit with the steering wheel, shifter and e-brake handle all sporting red stitching. Additional interior upgrades include a Monsoon audio system and alloy racing pedals. And like the GTIs of old, genuine Recaro bucket seats hold front passengers securely when probing the limits of the sport suspension and sticky tires.
Powering the 337 is the feisty 180 horsepower 1.8-liter turbocharged inline four used in the standard GTI and Beetle Turbo S. Making it clear that this is a serious driver's car, a six-speed manual gearbox is the only available transmission.


----------



## mktwo (Aug 5, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (silver30v)*

what is worse for an engine, WOT lots, or high revs? and how bad is each?


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (mktwo)*

high revs will wear an engine faster than just WOT at lower RPMs. but, lots of WOT pulls can really heat things up and you can damage other componets. its really kinda situational.
that said, id rather have my car run at WOT and shifted at 5700 rpm than drive around with minimal load at 7000 rpm.


----------



## OptimusGlen (Feb 14, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (JayB)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JayB* »_What was so magical about that motor?







Were they magical GRITS?









the inline 5-cyl Audi engine is known to be pretty durable. 300,000miles should'nt be hard for a maintained car with that engine.


----------



## THE KILLER RABBIT (Jun 2, 2003)

*Re: (abawp)*

whats the deal with the wole "Ur" designation for audi. ex ample urs4 etc...


----------



## Four Speed Fox (May 16, 2005)

*Re: (my merc 4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *my merc 4* »_whats the deal with the wole "Ur" designation for audi. ex ample urs4 etc...

Ur is commonly held to be the world's first human city. It was located in Mesopotamia. So the "Ur" of anything is the first or original of anything.


----------



## jtmgli (Oct 18, 2003)

*Re: (GDJ)*



GDJ said:


> ok I've always wondered this: How many sides does the die have in an original Magic 8 ball?QUOTE]
> Not sure how many side the die have but i believe there are 2 die in a Magic 8 ball


----------



## THE KILLER RABBIT (Jun 2, 2003)

*Re: (Four Speed Fox)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Four Speed Fox* »_
Ur is commonly held to be the world's first human city. It was located in Mesopotamia. So the "Ur" of anything is the first or original of anything. 

ok understandable BUT, can u clarify exactly, relating to the cars is it, the first year it came out, face lift,


----------



## M5WannaBe (Nov 9, 2002)

What exactly comprises a 'platform' in a car? When manufacturers talk about 2 cars sharing a platform, are they referring to the design of the frame, or the frame and suspension, or something more?


----------



## depireux (Feb 4, 2002)

*Re: (M3WannaBe)*

Speaking of gas caps, I pulled up next to an old british car (some kind of a Daimler, I think) and it had 2 fuel doors. Are they both functional, do they lead to the same gas tank. How common is that?


----------



## THE KILLER RABBIT (Jun 2, 2003)

*Re: (depireux)*

some have faux doors, AM logonda, RR phantom

_Quote, originally posted by *depireux* »_Speaking of gas caps, I pulled up next to an old british car (some kind of a Daimler, I think) and it had 2 fuel doors. Are they both functional, do they lead to the same gas tank. How common is that?


----------



## Goonster (Oct 30, 2004)

*Re: (jtmgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jtmgli* »_
Not sure how many side the die have but i believe there are 2 die in a Magic 8 ball

Nope. It is a single, twenty-sided cylinder.

_Quote, originally posted by *my merc 4* »_whats the deal with the wole "Ur" designation for audi. ex ample urs4 etc...

The "Ur" designation relates to the original incarnation, or generation, of a model, although the interpretation is sometimes a bit liberal.
UrQuattro = Original Audi Quattro coupe (I think this term is used pretty liberally to all 5cyl pre '90 turbo coupes, not just the "UrUr" '80 10-valve 160hp version, but I'm not an authority on Quattro orthodoxy)
UrS4 = '92/'93 S4, as opposed to B5 and subsequent S4's
UrGTi = '76 1.6L Golf GTi, but possibly applicable to all MKI GTi's


----------



## Rick1.8T (Oct 25, 2005)

*Re: (depireux)*


_Quote, originally posted by *depireux* »_Speaking of gas caps, I pulled up next to an old british car (some kind of a Daimler, I think) and it had 2 fuel doors. Are they both functional, do they lead to the same gas tank. How common is that?

Older (early 70s XKE) Jaguar's had a gas tank on each side, you had to fill each tank seperately. Not a Daimler product.


----------



## Kafer Wolf (Aug 1, 2002)

*Re: (Rick1.8T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Rick1.8T* »_
Older (early 70s XKE) Jaguar's had a gas tank on each side, you had to fill each tank seperately. Not a Daimler product.

cool! so does this mean that you have two fuel gauges? and do both tanks feed the engine simultaneously, or do you switch between tanks?


----------



## Tornado2dr (Mar 31, 2001)

*Re: (Rick1.8T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Rick1.8T* »_
Older (early 70s XKE) Jaguar's had a gas tank on each side, you had to fill each tank seperately. Not a Daimler product.

To further the dual-tank discussion:
Many American Trucks have been available with dual fuel tanks. In the 80s-90s many had a switch on the dash so you could switch between tanks when one tank was low, thus increasing your range on one fuel stop. Lately the dual-tank option is harder to find and I have yet to see a tank swap switch on a newer (post 00) truck








Edit: Last post asked about 2 fuel gauges. Many American trucks with the switch simply "reset" the gauge to the level of the tank you selected(1 or 2). Older trucks had separate feeds and pumps for each tank. On a newer chevy in our fleet, the two tanks are connected by a "transfer pump" which is always running, filling the front tank from the back. I don't like this particular design, because it causes two pumps to always be running (the transfer and the pump that supplies the motor) and has no possibility of a "backup" if a supply pump fails.
A mid '90s diesel ford I had the oppurtunity to drive from VA to FL made it with only one stop for fuel, and i think i was just being paranoid.
I doubt anyone cares.



_Modified by Tornado2dr at 6:50 AM 12-7-2005_


----------



## anothercar (Dec 20, 2002)

*Re: (Kafer Wolf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Kafer Wolf* »_
cool! so does this mean that you have two fuel gauges? and do both tanks feed the engine simultaneously, or do you switch between tanks?

I believe there is a misconception with regard to the jags dual fuel fillers. They are feeding the same single gas tank. They are on both sides of the car for convenience. 
Some of the Lp500 and 400 Countach models had dual fillers as well, they were located in the NACA duct located strangely at the backs of each scissor door, so you had to open the door to access the fuel filler, once again from whichever side is more convenient. There has been no one that has been able to tell me why some cars had two and others didnt. Ours had one, and it was on the passenger side on the LHD euro model.
The trucks post I cant speak for.


----------



## ginster vr6 (Aug 3, 2003)

*Re: (abawp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *abawp* »_I can't exactly remember who said it, or where in this particular thread it is located, so I will bring up the gas cap question again.
If the standard for gas caps is to put it as far away from the gas cap as possible, why do US-Spec civics (89-91 body style) and integras (88?-93? 1st and 2nd gen) deviate from this standard?

Its not about the gas cap being far away from the exhaust. Its about the room needed. They are usually on opposite sides because of the room needed to run the exhaust. So it would be difficult to have the filler neck and the exhaust run through the same area.


----------



## Four Speed Fox (May 16, 2005)

*Re: (anothercar)*


_Quote, originally posted by *anothercar* »_
I believe there is a misconception with regard to the jags dual fuel fillers. They are feeding the same single gas tank. They are on both sides of the car for convenience. 

I suppose the fuel tank switch in all Series 1,2,and 3 XJ6es is there for convenience as well, and the way the fuel gauge moves when you operate said tank switch is there for amusement.
That's a lot of effort on Jaguar's part.


----------



## anothercar (Dec 20, 2002)

*Re: (Four Speed Fox)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Four Speed Fox* »_
I suppose the fuel tank switch in all Series 1,2,and 3 XJ6es is there for convenience as well, and the way the fuel gauge moves when you operate said tank switch is there for amusement.
That's a lot of effort on Jaguar's part. 

.. and as is often the case, I've learned something.
I based my observation of a friends later year xj...I dont think I ever saw it run










_Modified by anothercar at 2:00 PM 12-7-2005_


----------



## M.Diesel (Dec 18, 2003)

*Re: (ginster vr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ginster vr6* »_
Its not about the gas cap being far away from the exhaust. Its about the room needed. They are usually on opposite sides because of the room needed to run the exhaust. So it would be difficult to have the filler neck and the exhaust run through the same area.









It actually is about keeping fumes away from heat. Learned this when I worked fueling jets at Harrisburg Intnl Airport. All the exhausts on our fuel trucks exited right under the cab in the front of the truck, when I asked why they were built like that I was told about keeping the fuel as far away from any heat sources as possible. Also found out that passenger vehicles are configured the same way with the exhaust on the opposite side of the filler cap. I can't explain why there are exceptions, but look around and you'll see that 99.9% of the vehicles on the road comply with the "gas cap opposite the exhaust" rule.
Oh and to answer another question: "Why do people like TDI's so much, I thought they were slow?" 147whp, 281lbft of torque, and 45 mpg...What else needs to be said? It's pretty damn quick, and 700+ miles between fill-ups isn't bad either. Now quick, someone multiply the tank capacity by 45mpg and try to figure out how I can go over 700 miles......










_Modified by M.Diesel at 1:40 PM 12-7-2005_


----------



## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

_Quote, originally posted by *M.Diesel* »_Now quick, someone multiply the tank capacity by 45mpg and try to figure out how I can go over 700 miles...... 

14 gal, right?
That would be:
14*45 = 630 miles
Someone is either burning veggie oil, or has an extremely disciplined right foot


----------



## M.Diesel (Dec 18, 2003)

*Re: (abawp)*

14.5 gallon tank. All golfs use the same fuel tank whether it be a gasser or a tdi. There is a space in the tank for an air bubble to compensate for the different volume of gas based on it's temperature, so your tank doesn't overflow when it's filled up and it gets hot outside. Diesel fuel does not expand nearly as much as gasoline when it gets heated, therefore the air bubble is not needed. VW actually puts a button inside the filler neck of the tdi's that, when depressed, allows the air to exit the tank allowing for almost two more gallons of fuel to be put in bringing the total capacity to somewhere around 16.4 gallons. I usually run till my low fuel light comes on, right around 700 miles, and it usualy takes about 15.5 gallons to fill it back up. Anyone learn something new today? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## enriquejcu (Sep 16, 2004)

Here's one:
How does the gas pump know when to shut off when I'm refueling my car? Increased air pressure in the tank?


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

*Re: (M.Diesel)*

You guys realize that that button in the fuel filler neck is to allow extra venting when using truck-diameter pumps, right? LOL, the stories that abound about that button are amazing.


----------



## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

*Re: (M.Diesel)*

WOW!! Learn something new everyday http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## HarryHood (Mar 17, 2000)

*Re: (Rick1.8T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Rick1.8T* »_
Older (early 70s XKE) Jaguar's had a gas tank on each side, you had to fill each tank seperately. Not a Daimler product.

Actually, the British marque "Daimler" exists, separate and apart from "Daimler-Benz". Before about 40 years ago, they made their own cars. Now, they take Jaguars and gussy them up a bit and rebadge them "Daimler".


----------



## Rick1.8T (Oct 25, 2005)

*Re: (HarryHood)*


_Quote, originally posted by *HarryHood* »_
Actually, the British marque "Daimler" exists, separate and apart from "Daimler-Benz". Before about 40 years ago, they made their own cars. Now, they take Jaguars and gussy them up a bit and rebadge them "Daimler". 

The car I was referring to was an XJ6, not XKE. I didn't know about British Daimlers, thanks for the correction. I feel so smart after reading all of the wisdom in this thread


----------



## clklop1 (Jul 20, 2003)

*Re: (BlueNDGold)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BlueNDGold* »_Are there more rules besides rule #1?

see sig


----------



## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

*Re: (enriquejcu)*


_Quote, originally posted by *enriquejcu* »_Here's one:
How does the gas pump know when to shut off when I'm refueling my car? Increased air pressure in the tank?









I think it may have something to do with electrical conductivity, but I'd like to hear from someone who really knows.


----------



## Dubai Vol (Jan 8, 2002)

*Re: (IJM)*


_Quote, originally posted by *IJM* »_
I think it may have something to do with electrical conductivity, but I'd like to hear from someone who really knows.

I don't KNOW, but I would design it to work on back pressure. A simple diaphragm pressure sensor in the line (inside the pump housing obviously) would "see" an increase in line pressure and trigger a cutoff. That could be made very sensitive, as they are. So while I am guessing, I would bet you a beer that's how it's done. Anyone care to enlighten us?


----------



## Dubai Vol (Jan 8, 2002)

*Re: (Dubai Vol)*

SO after sticking my neck out I found this:
http://www.straightdope.com/classics/a1_263.html
Not exactly what I was thinking, but at least there is a diaphragm pressure sensor involved!


----------



## M.Diesel (Dec 18, 2003)

*Re: (atomicalex)*


_Quote, originally posted by *atomicalex* »_You guys realize that that button in the fuel filler neck is to allow extra venting when using truck-diameter pumps, right? LOL, the stories that abound about that button are amazing.

So you're saying it does not let you put in more fuel? I work at a dealership and have filled many a VW (gas and diesel) and have never been able to get more than ~14.4 gallons into the gassers while I regularly put over 15.5 into my diesel (I think the most ever was ~16.3). It does allow a quicker fill when open, needed for those jumbo spouts found on many diesel pumps, but it also allows more fuel into the tank. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## StarvinMarvin (Feb 25, 2005)

*Re: (M.Diesel)*

what is the octane rating of deisel?
Is it higher or lower than gasoline?
Is it because of this because of compression?


----------



## 20thgtiblack (Jul 2, 2004)

*Re: (JUSTINCASE1021)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JUSTINCASE1021* »_What in gods name is a HAZMAT and why cant you take it into a tunnel???

Hazardous Materials


----------



## Devious-Veedub (Jan 27, 2005)

Anyone know what Audi Stands for??
It's an acronym...


----------



## bWs (Dec 27, 2004)

*Re: (Devious-Veedub)*

*A*uto *U*nion *D*eutschland *I*ngolstadt


----------



## Devious-Veedub (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (bWs)*

Good job! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif


----------



## Dommer (Jan 10, 2000)

*Re: (Devious-Veedub)*

Do automatic transmissions know not to change gears while you're in a turn so as not to upset the balance of the car? If so, do they accomplish this by measuring lateral G's?
If both parts and labor of installation are higher for drum brakes, AND they don't work as well as disc brakes, why the hell did every car used to come with them?


----------



## Langers (Jul 21, 2004)

*Re: (M.Diesel)*


_Quote, originally posted by *M.Diesel* »_14.5 gallon tank. All golfs use the same fuel tank whether it be a gasser or a tdi. 

Are you sure? I could have sworn that the R32 and 4-Motion Golfs have smaller tanks.


----------



## Langers (Jul 21, 2004)

*Re: (Dommer)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Dommer* »_
If both parts and labor of installation are higher for drum brakes, AND they don't work as well as disc brakes, why the hell did every car used to come with them?

Because discs didn't exist?


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (StarvinMarvin)*


_Quote, originally posted by *StarvinMarvin* »_what is the octane rating of deisel?
Is it higher or lower than gasoline?
Is it because of this because of compression?

diesel 'octane' is called cetane and the detonation resistance is less than that of gas. i dont feel like looking up what exactly it is right now. im tired.








ill try to find it in one of my old text books tomorrow maybe.


----------



## M.Diesel (Dec 18, 2003)

*Re: (Langers)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Langers* »_
Are you sure? I could have sworn that the R32 and 4-Motion Golfs have smaller tanks.


That could be..To be more specific, all mkIV fwd golfs that are available to the US market that I know of, use the same fuel tank.


----------



## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

What causes backfiring? More specifically, why does it backfire, and in extreme cases, light off un-burnt fuel, when you let off the gas?


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

*Re: (abawp)*

Backfiring and postfiring are two different things. A true "backfire" is when the flame front manages to get out the intake tract and usually results in a destroyed air filter.
A postfire (there is a better name out there somewhere) occurs when uncombusted fuel hits the hot exhaust manifold and ignites. The fuel is usually uncombusted due to a misfire.


----------



## GTIcharlie (Jul 27, 2004)

so what is VW Kool AID?


----------



## StarvinMarvin (Feb 25, 2005)

*Re: (TurboWraith)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TurboWraith* »_
diesel 'octane' is called cetane and the detonation resistance is less than that of gas. i dont feel like looking up what exactly it is right now. im tired.








ill try to find it in one of my old text books tomorrow maybe.

Rock on thanks. I'll try adn find a little mroe info too.


----------



## shftat6 (Oct 9, 2000)

*Re: (StarvinMarvin)*

Why do dump trucks and some other trucks say "Do not push" on the back?








What the hell would happen if you did?


----------



## GLIGuy18 (May 31, 2004)

*Re: (shftat6)*

what is underneath the floor carpet in cars? is is plastic??? metal?? wth is under there?!


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (shftat6)*

possible to bend or warp the bed and then they might not be able to dump their load as easily.
basicly, it can damage the truck, even though it looks strong.


----------



## das boot (Apr 14, 2003)

*Re: (GLIGuy18)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GLIGuy18* »_what is underneath the floor carpet in cars? is is plastic??? metal?? wth is under there?! 

Under most carpets, there is some stick on sound deadening sheets and then metal.


----------



## G-rocco (Sep 11, 2004)

*Re: (shftat6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *shftat6* »_Why do dump trucks and some other trucks say "Do not push" on the back?









My office is expanding, building into the (formerly) vacant lot next door - I asked the foreman about that while they were doing all the excavating.
Basically, the door isn't very strong. It's strong enough to hold inside whatever you mihgt put in, but if you pushed on it against the weight of the whole truck, it would crumple badly. He knew firsthand!


----------



## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

*Re: (G-rocco)*


_Quote, originally posted by *G-rocco* »_
My office is expanding, building into the (formerly) vacant lot next door - I asked the foreman about that while they were doing all the excavating.
Basically, the door isn't very strong. It's strong enough to hold inside whatever you mihgt put in, but if you pushed on it against the weight of the whole truck, it would crumple badly. He knew firsthand!

I guess that's like the NO STEP sign on airplane wings.


----------



## bobturk (Aug 19, 2004)

*Re: (bWs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bWs* »_*A*uto *U*nion *D*eutschland *I*ngolstadt









Actually Audi is not an acronym, when August Horch left his namesake car company, which he created he was not allowed to reuse the name as the company continued on without him. He chose the name Audi because it is the latin equivelent to Horch, which means to hear in German. Eventually the companies merged into Auto Union which was represented by the 4 rings, the other company's names that were in Auto Union were retired and Audi was kept and used the old Auto Union logo.


----------



## someguy123 (Sep 30, 2005)

Do turbocharged cars run better in the cold winter? Like the B5 S4(heats up bad in other seasons)? Since it would reach < 0 celsius in the east.


----------



## ZeroGravity97GT (Sep 19, 2005)

What does "ttt" mean?


----------



## Rassig (Feb 4, 2001)

*Re: (M3WannaBe)*


_Quote, originally posted by *M3WannaBe* »_What exactly comprises a 'platform' in a car? When manufacturers talk about 2 cars sharing a platform, are they referring to the design of the frame, or the frame and suspension, or something more?

IIRC, the platform is the chassis... or the "frame" as you mentioned it...
and not really the suspension.


----------



## shftat6 (Oct 9, 2000)

*Re: (ZeroGravity97GT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ZeroGravity97GT* »_What does "ttt" mean?

To The Top

People will type that as a post to bump a thread back to the top of the list.


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (someguy123)*


_Quote, originally posted by *someguy123* »_Do turbocharged cars run better in the cold winter? Like the B5 S4(heats up bad in other seasons)? Since it would reach < 0 celsius in the east.

most cars run better in colder weather after they warm up. turbo cars seem to benifit more because the charge air is so much cooler and the intercooler works better (read - more oxygen). i swear my car is at least 15hp stronger in sub zero weather than it is in the summer. 
but then again, it could also be due to the 15" steelies i have on it now.


----------



## Manu44 (Dec 5, 2003)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (Markasaurus!)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Markasaurus!* »_Isn't it a **** moustache?

Yes.
On a more Vortex Related item....
Does your user rating ever start to increase? Im pretty low and have been good for a long time.


----------



## GoKart_16v (Dec 17, 2004)

*Re: (FLank_Sinatra)*

This is a serious question...
If you were in a car...parked of course...and you go muff diving...is the liquid from the muff dangerous to your health? Are their any ill-effect from ingesting or having this liquid in you mouth?
Also, would it inhibit yor ability to drive in anyway (like alcohol)?
Thanks


----------



## JayB (Dec 15, 2001)

*Re: (GoKart_16v)*

you can dive for earmuffs?


----------



## 42718dad (May 20, 2004)

*Re: (JayB)*

I muffdive on a regular basis, and I have seen no ill effects. Except for the occasional sprained tongue or tennis elbow.


----------



## dmband0041 (Dec 10, 2003)

*Re: (GoKart_16v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GoKart_16v* »_This is a serious question...
If you were in a car...parked of course...and you go muff diving...is the liquid from the muff dangerous to your health? Are their any ill-effect from ingesting or having this liquid in you mouth?
Also, would it inhibit yor ability to drive in anyway (like alcohol)?
Thanks

health and fitness forum









thats where i got my sig gem http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Markasaurus! (May 25, 2005)

*Re: (dmband0041)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dmband0041* »_
health and fitness forum









thats where i got my sig gem http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Thank you. I was wondering all day what sort of twisted car topic would yield that quote.


----------



## Devious-Veedub (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (niels_dale)*

what is the difference between crank and wheel horsepower. I know i should know this. and i know the general difference, but a little more detail would be awesome! 
I've also heard the word 'brute horsepower'


----------



## Markasaurus! (May 25, 2005)

*Re: (Devious-Veedub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Devious-Veedub* »_what is the difference between crank and wheel horsepower. I know i should know this. and i know the general difference, but a little more detail would be awesome! 
I've also heard the word 'brute horsepower'


Crank hp is the hp at the flywheel. Wheel hp, or whp, is the hp after a bunch is lost on the way to the wheels. There will be the biggest difference between crank and wheel hp (often called drivetrain loss) in AWD/4WD cars, then RWD cars, and then FWD cars in that order.


----------



## Kafer Wolf (Aug 1, 2002)

*Re: (Markasaurus!)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Markasaurus!* »_
Crank hp is the hp at the flywheel. Wheel hp, or whp, is the hp after a bunch is lost on the way to the wheels. There will be the biggest difference between crank and wheel hp (often called drivetrain loss) in AWD/4WD cars, then RWD cars, and then FWD cars in that order.

what if the car is RWD and also rear-engined like old VWs and porsches?


----------



## munkey (Apr 30, 2004)

*Re: (TurboWraith)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TurboWraith* »_most cars run better in colder weather after they warm up. turbo cars seem to benifit more because the charge air is so much cooler and the intercooler works better (read - more oxygen). i swear my car is at least 15hp stronger in sub zero weather than it is in the summer. 
but then again, it could also be due to the 15" steelies i have on it now.









i'm not sure if you meant it in your explaination, but colder air means the air is denser. which means when the engine sucks in air that is denser and ignites it, a larger explosion will occur.


----------



## Daemon42 (Feb 9, 2001)

*Re: (Langers)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Langers* »_Are you sure? I could have sworn that the R32 and 4-Motion Golfs have smaller tanks.

R32 has a 16.4 gallon tank. 

BTW, relating back to an earlier question about torque and horsepower.
Here's an interesting factoid. Torque does not actually imply movement. 
Torque is an applied force. As soon as that force causes movement against
some resistance (be it accelleration against inertia or an actual resistive load) 
then work is done, and horsepower is produced. An old steam locomotive 
could for instance produce thousands of lb-ft of torque from a dead
stop, but until it moves it has produced no horsepower whatsoever.
However, in the context of a car engine, torque (engine torque multiplied
by tranny and final drive gear ratios to produce torque at the wheels) 
is what directly produces the force that pushes you into your seat right *now*, 
and horsepower is a measure of how long (or rather how high into the 
rpms) you can continue to produce useable torque. So in a very real sense,
you feel torque, but horsepower determines any meaningful performance 
measurement you'd take over over time (0-60, 1/4 mile, even top speed). 
Any engine that can continue to make *some* level of useable torque into 
the stratospheric rpms can continue to do more and more work (with the help
of gearing) and thus produce higher and higher horsepower. 
ian



_Modified by Daemon42 at 5:01 AM 12-11-2005_


----------



## Goonster (Oct 30, 2004)

*Re: (munkey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *munkey* »_
i'm not sure if you meant it in your explaination, but colder air means the air is denser. which means when the engine sucks in air that is denser and ignites it, a larger explosion will occur.

Weeeeeeell . . .








For modern, fuel-injected cars:
The ECU determines the desired air/fuel mixture ratio. Any significant deviation from this ratio is a bad thing.
Theoretically, higher density air means you can add more fuel to the mixture, while maintaining the same ratio. More fuel means that more energy is released in each ignition cycle. 
I would expected the "more power on cold mornings" phenomenon to actually be _less_ pronounced for turbocharged cars, since they have two control parameters for the intake air: mass flow and intake manifold pressure. However, most turbocharged cars have intercoolers, which use ambient air to cool compressed intake air downstream of the MAF.
I suspect that _high _temperatures _hurt _the performance of all cars much more than _low _temperatures create all sorts of mystery power, and feel that there is a lot of myth and lore on this subject.
We need numbers. Anybody got a dynochart for the same car at very low and very high temps?


----------



## Markasaurus! (May 25, 2005)

*Re: (Kafer Wolf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Kafer Wolf* »_
what if the car is RWD and also rear-engined like old VWs and porsches?

Good question. I don't know, but it would be logical to assume there would be less drivetrain loss.


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (munkey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *munkey* »_i'm not sure if you meant it in your explaination, but colder air means the air is denser. which means when the engine sucks in air that is denser and ignites it, a larger explosion will occur.

yup, thats what i was getting at. in a hurry typing. 
to the other poster, the car reads air flow at the MAF and depending on throttle position and the MAF decides how much fuel to use. the first o2 sensor is what measures a/f ratio and the injection system will adjust accordingly to get the right mixture.
so, if the air is denser, the same flow is passing over the MAF, throttle is wide open, the o2 sensor is going to see that the mix is a slight bit lean, thus putting more fuel in the hole, and since we have the air to burn it, that = more power.
on a intercooled FI car this effect is hightend further by the IC. cools the charge air even more to get an exaggerated effect.


----------



## nevermas (Aug 12, 2005)

*Re: (TurboWraith)*

what does the TT in audi TT stand for? for the longest time i was told it stood for twin turbo...


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (nevermas)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nevermas* »_what does the TT in audi TT stand for? for the longest time i was told it stood for twin turbo...









the only turbo engine you can get in the TT is the 1.8t - has one turbo.








stands for Tourist Trophy


----------



## GTIcharlie (Jul 27, 2004)

*Re: (TurboWraith)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TurboWraith* »_
the only turbo engine you can get in the TT is the 1.8t - has one turbo.








stands for Tourist Trophy

It is also a race that takes place in Mexico every year as an endurance trail. The TT was originally named after it because Porsche, Audi's parent comapny, won the TT in Mexico 6 times in a row. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (GTIcharlie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GTIcharlie* »_It is also a race that takes place in Mexico every year as an endurance trail. The TT was originally named after it because Porsche, Audi's parent comapny, won the TT in Mexico 6 times in a row. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

cool http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif had no idea the name came from there


----------



## nevermas (Aug 12, 2005)

*Re: (TurboWraith)*

cool thanks 
does the diameter of the exhaust pipe have anything to do with performance?


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (nevermas)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nevermas* »_cool thanks 
does the diameter of the exhaust pipe have anything to do with performance? 

it has everything to do with performance.
and the basic rule of thumb that one 90 degree bend is the same as 3 feet of straight section.


----------



## nevermas (Aug 12, 2005)

*Re: (TurboWraith)*

what is the exhaust pipe is just a bolted on fixture, without work done to the exhaust system itself?


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (nevermas)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nevermas* »_what is the exhaust pipe is just a bolted on fixture, without work done to the exhaust system itself? 

huh?


----------



## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

_Quote, originally posted by *nevermas* »_what is the exhaust pipe is just a bolted on fixture, without work done to the exhaust system itself?

Hmm, the closest thing to a translation is this:
What is the purpose of the exhaust pipe? Will the engine work without the system?
In short, the engine will run, but it will run terrible. To the best of my knowledge, the exhaust system needs to restrict the motor enough to keep the fresh air/fuel mixture into the cylinder while both valves are open (valve overlap).


----------



## vanaguy (Oct 18, 2002)

*Re: (atomicalex)*


_Quote, originally posted by *atomicalex* »_You guys realize that that button in the fuel filler neck is to allow extra venting when using truck-diameter pumps, right? LOL, the stories that abound about that button are amazing.

That button is there to prevent you from over-filling your tank. It keeps the air bubble trapped in there, as has been noted earlier.
When you put your gas cap back on, it reaches into the fill tube far enough to "open" the button, which allows air flow between the fill tube and overflow tube.
TDI owners go nuts over the button because opening it or removing it (very easy to do) allows them to put 2 more gallons in. They can get away with it because diesel hardly expands at all when heated.


----------



## Devious-Veedub (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (vanaguy)*

How does your car know how much gas is in the tank. Is there a sensor, a floatie? what?


----------



## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

There is a float in the tank that triggers a sensor I believe.


----------



## nevermas (Aug 12, 2005)

*Re: (abawp)*

what is cat back exhaust?


----------



## Devious-Veedub (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (nevermas)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nevermas* »_what is cat back exhaust? 

an exhaust system(usually aftermarket) that goes from the CATalytic converter to the back of the car.


----------



## nevermas (Aug 12, 2005)

*Re: (Devious-Veedub)*

ah thanks for all the answers


----------



## Devious-Veedub (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (nevermas)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nevermas* »_ah thanks for all the answers

Keep 'em comming. This is the best thread ever on the CL. ith the exception of the gorilla one, the enzodude one, the to crubs one, hawc's squirrel one..well maybe not the best, but top 10 at least.


----------



## Goonster (Oct 30, 2004)

*Re: (GTIcharlie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GTIcharlie* »_
It is also a race that takes place in Mexico every year as an endurance trail. The TT was originally named after it because Porsche, Audi's parent comapny, won the TT in Mexico 6 times in a row. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Well, I guess there is a kernel of truth in there . . .
True: The Audi TT is named after a race called the Tourist Trophy.
Not True: Everything else. (You were probably thinking of the Carrera Panamericana)
The Tourist Trophy was held on the Isle of Man, not in Mexico.
I can find no record of Porsche ever competing in the tourist trophy.
Porsche is not, nor was it ever, a parent company of Audi.
Audi does have a link to racing success at the TT, but it is via NSU, which VW/Audi absorbed in 1969. The TT was primarily a motorcycle race, and NSU reaped many top ten finishes there, including a couple of wins. In the early 60's NSU had a car called the Prinz, of which a sporting version was later given the TT moniker.
What did the NSU TT look like, in race livery? Glad you asked . . .








mmm, Jaegermeister . . .


----------



## nevermas (Aug 12, 2005)

*Re: (Devious-Veedub)*

How does an automatic transmission know when to change gears?


----------



## eggman95 (Dec 4, 2002)

*Re: (nevermas)*

will accelerating into the high rpms do any real damage to my 2.0L?
Reving high in first, and 2nd, mostly.


----------



## Devious-Veedub (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (eggman95)*

The rule of thumb is to usually shift before 4500- 5500. But there are times when it's necessary and oh so much fun! 
so to answer your question, occasionally, no, it's not going to do extensive damage, there are even stories of it doing good for you car -italian tune-up- but i don't suggest doing it off of every launch.


----------



## eggman95 (Dec 4, 2002)

*Re: (Devious-Veedub)*

Thanks! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Daemon42 (Feb 9, 2001)

*Re: (nevermas)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nevermas* »_How does an automatic transmission know when to change gears?

It's quite a lot more complicated than a manual tranny, and best explained here.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/...n.htm
ian


----------



## Zz_Radish_zZ (Jun 27, 2005)

*Re: (Daemon42)*

Why do certain makes and models hold their values better than others?
For example, the Ford Windstar/Freestar vs. the Dodge Caravan. I think the Ford holds a better value and I'm sure that both have comparable values when new.


----------



## Markasaurus! (May 25, 2005)

*Re: (Zz_Radish_zZ)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Zz_Radish_zZ* »_Why do certain makes and models hold their values better than others?
For example, the Ford Windstar/Freestar vs. the Dodge Caravan. I think the Ford holds a better value and I'm sure that both have comparable values when new.

I believe it's based on reliability and reputation. 
Edit: turbowraith also reminded me of the demand part. 

_Modified by Markasaurus! at 11:16 PM 12-11-2005_


_Modified by Markasaurus! at 11:16 PM 12-11-2005_


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (Zz_Radish_zZ)*

demand has just about everything to do with it.

consumers perceptions and desires. certain factors about certain cars sway peoples thoughts differently, but in the end resale value is all what the general public is willing to pay based on its new price and xxx miles/wear etc.


----------



## shftat6 (Oct 9, 2000)

*Re: (eggman95)*


_Quote, originally posted by *eggman95* »_will accelerating into the high rpms do any real damage to my 2.0L?
Reving high in first, and 2nd, mostly.

As long as you don't over-rev the motor, it will be just fine.


----------



## depireux (Feb 4, 2002)

*Re: (ZeroGravity97GT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ZeroGravity97GT* »_What does "ttt" mean?

In Cycling, it's Team Time Trial.


----------



## depireux (Feb 4, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (jebglx)*

Why is such a fuss made about the Veyron reaching 1000bHP, when it seems that the average Supra + 30k$ dynoes at 1100HP.


----------



## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (depireux)*


_Quote, originally posted by *depireux* »_dynoes 

that's just it. there is a difference between being a dyno queen and being a factory supported car that is easy to drive around town, will stick to the road at 240mph, and makes usuable power (that can be put to the road) below 6000 rpm.


----------



## Goldice (May 3, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (depireux)*


_Quote, originally posted by *depireux* »_Why is such a fuss made about the Veyron reaching 1000bHP, when it seems that the average Supra + 30k$ dynoes at 1100HP. 

If you can build a 1,000 hp Supra that is street driven...that ANYONE can drive without a problem, go for it. Multiple reporters have said the Veyron is as easy to drive as a Golf around town, that is INCREDIBLE.


----------



## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

Is BHP the metric equivalent of SAE HP? Whats the actual difference between the two?


----------



## Dubai Vol (Jan 8, 2002)

*Re: (abawp)*

BHP stands for Brake Horsepower, because old dynos actually ran the engine against an adjustable brake. We used to have an old water-brake dyno in our shop: open the water valve more to create more braking force. The actual test procedure was to gradually increase engine throttle and water valve until the engine was at full throttle at a steady rpm. A big dial showed the torque (in lb-ft) being produced by the engine at that speed. Then you would open or close the water valve a little to change the engine speed. Using the formula:
BHP=torque x rpm/5250
Gave you the horsepower.
As for the SAE hp, there are many slightly different ways of calculating horsepower. SAE net is the current American standard (it used to be SAE gross in the '60s) DIN is the German standard, adn JIS is the Japanese standard.
IIRC DIN horse are especially big and strong, JIS horses are kind of puny, and SAE horses are somewhere in between.
For the metric minded, one horsepower is 746 watts, or 0.746 kW


----------



## GTIcharlie (Jul 27, 2004)

wtf is VW kool aid?


----------



## BMAN70 (Jun 11, 2004)

*Re: (Devious-Veedub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Devious-Veedub* »_so to answer your question, occasionally, no, it's not going to do extensive damage, there are even stories of it doing good for you car -italian tune-up- but i don't suggest doing it off of every launch.

whats an "Italian tune up"?? Where did that term come from?


----------



## Devious-Veedub (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (BMAN70)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BMAN70* »_
whats an "Italian tune up"?? Where did that term come from?

Driving your car at HIGH RPM, in LOW gears. Burns away all carbon deposits and residue.
I think you can figure out where the name is from...


----------



## enriquejcu (Sep 16, 2004)

*Re: (Devious-Veedub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Devious-Veedub* »_Driving your car at HIGH RPM, in LOW gears. Burns away all carbon deposits and residue.
I think you can figure out where the name is from... 

I was nervous, I thought it meant that my engine would grow mounds of chest hair and suddenly all belts would turn into gold chains


----------



## Devious-Veedub (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (enriquejcu)*


_Quote, originally posted by *enriquejcu* »_
I was nervous, I thought it meant that my engine would grow mounds of chest hair and suddenly all belts would turn into gold chains









Only if you drive an IROC


----------



## Devious-Veedub (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (Devious-Veedub)*

What is ICE?


----------



## dubfan (May 26, 2002)

*Re: (Devious-Veedub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Devious-Veedub* »_What is ICE?

In-Car Entertainment.


----------



## Devious-Veedub (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (dubfan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubfan* »_
In-Car Entertainment.

Thanks, I totally should have known that!


----------



## depireux (Feb 4, 2002)

*Re: (Devious-Veedub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Devious-Veedub* »_Only if you drive an IROC









Gawd, I miss Chris Farley!


----------



## sirtophamhat (Oct 4, 2003)

What is the cause of the burbling, popping sort of sounds my car makes from the exhaust(as distinct from mechanical or induction noises) when coasting?


----------



## mk_ultra' (Oct 10, 2004)

*Re: (sirtophamhat)*

Ive searched on this question but have not found a true answer. Why is it that the vr6 has such a distinct sound ?


----------



## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

I tend to think its the engine design of the VR and how the block resonates the sound and spits it out the exhaust system, but thats just a theory.


----------



## das boot (Apr 14, 2003)

*Re: (mk_ultra')*

It's the 15° offset of the V.
Holy crap there's a Wiki entry for the VR6


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (sirtophamhat)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sirtophamhat* »_What is the cause of the burbling, popping sort of sounds my car makes from the exhaust(as distinct from mechanical or induction noises) when coasting? 

air is being drawn back towards the engine because a vacuum formed when you let off the throttle. every car in the freakin world does this (beleive it or not) you just cant hear it on 99% of stock exhaust systems.

and i think the VR6 sounds like it does because of an inline 6 type induction/exhaust setup but the firing order of a V engine.


----------



## Daemon42 (Feb 9, 2001)

*Re: (TurboWraith)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TurboWraith* »_
and i think the VR6 sounds like it does because of an inline 6 type induction/exhaust setup but the firing order of a V engine.

VR6 has the firing order of an inline 6. The V only creates a slight
syncopation to what would normally be a classic inline 6 exhaust note. 
To get an idea of just how "inline" the VR6 is, consider the fact
that they lopped one cylinder off to create the VR5 and it ran pretty
much just like any other inline 5 with no unusual vibration. 
The VR6 also has no balancing shaft unlike most conventional 60 or 90 
degree V6's. 
ian


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (Daemon42)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Daemon42* »_VR6 has the firing order of an inline 6. The V only creates a slight
syncopation to what would normally be a classic inline 6 exhaust note. 
To get an idea of just how "inline" the VR6 is, consider the fact
that they lopped one cylinder off to create the VR5 and it ran pretty
much just like any other inline 5 with no unusual vibration. 
The VR6 also has no balancing shaft unlike most conventional 60 or 90 
degree V6's. 
ian

then it would be the other way around from what i thought was right. cool stuff http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

*Re: (TurboWraith)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TurboWraith* »_air is being drawn back towards the engine because a vacuum formed when you let off the throttle. every car in the freakin world does this (beleive it or not) you just cant hear it on 99% of stock exhaust systems.
and i think the VR6 sounds like it does because of an inline 6 type induction/exhaust setup but the firing order of a V engine.

1. If you are unsure of how loud this sound can get, cut a 1/2" hole in your exhaust about six feet from the end of the exhaust manifold and definitely in front of any resonators or mufflers. Then buy some earplugs and start your car. LOL, that noise in my Rabbit terrifies my kids! The muffler does a great deal to reduce this noise, moreso that it can do to reduce the WOT noise.
2. Thank you, I have always wondered about that. I love the sound of a straight six, and have wondered if that was part of the allure of the VR sound. My dad has even noticed the "VR effect".


----------



## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

I understand how traction control works on a DBW car, but how does it work on a Drive-by-cable car?


----------



## Four Speed Fox (May 16, 2005)

*Re: (abawp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *abawp* »_I understand how traction control works on a DBW car, but how does it work on a Drive-by-cable car?

They both use brakes for the initial TC, but there has to be a mechanical component to reduce throttle opening. In the fourth-gen F-body, there's a pretty strong motor in the throttle assembly which "pushes back" on your foot. Think the ABS pulse, only in the other pedal.


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (Four Speed Fox)*

ok, ive got a question now. 
what exactly is a 'knife edged' crankshaft? ive hear lots of people talk about them in racing applications, and how wonderful they are to use etc. but ive never seen a picture of one, nor drove/ridden in a car with one to my knoledge.


----------



## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

Here is what I have found for a "knife edge" crank
Full view of the crankshaft:








close-up:










_Modified by abawp at 1:43 PM 12-14-2005_


----------



## Huckvw (Aug 29, 2004)

*Re: (abawp)*

If i have an automatic transmission and i'm on the highway and shift it into reverse, will it do it?
page: sqrt(256) reserved.


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (Huckvw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Huckvw* »_If i have an automatic transmission and i'm on the highway and shift it into reverse, will it do it?
page: sqrt(256) reserved.

since an auto trans really doesnt 'shift gears' it engages clutches to change gears, you will most likely burn the hell out of the reverse clutch, then fry your torque converter as it is trying to stop your car. 
that is assuming that the hardware in the trans in strong enough not to snap and fall out of the car.









so, the advantage of a knife edged crank is less rotating mass? thats about all i can conclude from those pics.


----------



## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

_Quote, originally posted by *According to the site I got the pics from (http://www.tgsi.com/crank_prep.html)* »_A lot work has been done to remove weight from non stressed areas of the crank. Not only is weight taken off the counter weights the counter weights have been "knife edged" to reduce the windage of the spinning crank.

Also, here is sport compact car's take on knife edging:

_Quote, originally posted by *http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/tech/0104scc_ssbbpart7/* »_The very anal retentive can take crank prep a step further by grinding off all forging parting lines and bullnosing (rounding) counterweights. This reduces stress risers by eliminating sharp edges where stress and cracks can concentrate. All-out drag racing naturally aspirated engines, where every ounce of power is critical, can benefit from knife-edging and lightening the crank. This is where the counterweights are given an aerodynamic profile with a sharp leading edge to reduce windage losses when the crank spins through the oil-filled mist created in the crankcase by bearing sling-off at high rpm. Lightening the crank reduces the power required to spin the engine to speed, freeing power to drive the wheels. Removing large amounts of material from the crank counterweights can create an under-balanced situation, where the counterweights do not cancel the weight of the rod and piston. This can create vibratory stress on the engine. Because of this, excess lightening should be avoided on road racing and street engines where long-term durability is important.



_Modified by abawp at 2:07 PM 12-14-2005_


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (abawp)*

very cool, thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## depireux (Feb 4, 2002)

*Scissor doors*

Is there any advantage other than bling-ness factor to scissor doors?


----------



## Danza (Jun 29, 2004)

*Re: Scissor doors (depireux)*

Less room needed to open them???


----------



## 13minutes (Sep 8, 2002)

*Re: Scissor doors (01Geezer)*

Less hoirizontal room.
But those *are not *really scissor doors on the pictured 997.


----------



## depireux (Feb 4, 2002)

*Re: Scissor doors (13minutes)*


_Quote, originally posted by *13minutes* »_Less hoirizontal room.
But those *are not *really scissor doors on the pictured 997.

Wing doors, then?


----------



## northernvw (Apr 19, 2002)

*Re: Scissor doors (depireux)*

How does rain sensing wipers work????


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: Scissor doors (northernvw)*

sensor of some kind in the windsheild. computer does the rest. the sensor senses water.... and thats about all i know about that.


----------



## VWnewbie (May 8, 1999)

*Re: Scissor doors (TurboWraith)*

It senses the angle of light hitting the sensor. If the light is bent (i.e. by water droplets) the wipers activate.
Question: How do rain sensing wipers work at night?


----------



## M.Diesel (Dec 18, 2003)

*Re: Scissor doors (VWnewbie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VWnewbie* »_It senses the angle of light hitting the sensor. If the light is bent (i.e. by water droplets) the wipers activate.
Question: How do rain sensing wipers work at night?

It's actualy an IR light that is in the car. Look at the base of the rearview mirror mount and you can see it. That IR light shines out the windshield and reflects back, any refraction of the reflection means there is water on the windshield and the wipers come on. The more refraction the faster the wipers go. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Desiboi (Jan 31, 2005)

*Re: Scissor doors (M.Diesel)*


_Quote, originally posted by *M.Diesel* »_It's actualy an IR light that is in the car. Look at the base of the rearview mirror mount and you can see it. That IR light shines out the windshield and reflects back, any refraction of the reflection means there is water on the windshield and the wipers come on. The more refraction the faster the wipers go. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## someguy123 (Sep 30, 2005)

*Re: Scissor doors (M.Diesel)*


_Quote, originally posted by *M.Diesel* »_
It's actualy an IR light that is in the car. Look at the base of the rearview mirror mount and you can see it. That IR light shines out the windshield and reflects back, any refraction of the reflection means there is water on the windshield and the wipers come on. The more refraction the faster the wipers go. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

LOL, so that's what they're for. I always thought the red lights under the mirror were for lighting purposes only.


----------



## Kafer Wolf (Aug 1, 2002)

*Re: (Huckvw)*

do tire manufacturers still make those cool tires with raised white letters on them? i'm wondering why they don't come as standard on new cars these days...


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (Kafer Wolf)*

yea...mostly in M&S tires only though.


----------



## Kafer Wolf (Aug 1, 2002)

*Re: (TurboWraith)*

M&S?


----------



## technivoro.us (Nov 8, 2001)

*Re: (Kafer Wolf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Kafer Wolf* »_M&S?









Mud and snow rated


----------



## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

*Re: (Kafer Wolf)*

Mud + Snow


----------



## Skot53 (May 15, 2005)

*Re: Scissor doors (depireux)*


_Quote, originally posted by *depireux* »_Is there any advantage other than bling-ness factor to scissor doors? 

To add more to this and to "drive the point home" scissor doors or lambo doors are originally equppied from the factory on w-i-d-e Lamborghini's that couldn't open their doors if they were in a smaller parking lot. It's funny to see Eclipse's and Integra's with these doors. That is called "Fashion over Function"


----------



## 13minutes (Sep 8, 2002)

*Re: Scissor doors (Skot53)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Skot53* »_
To add more to this and to "drive the point home" scissor doors or lambo doors are originally equppied from the factory on w-i-d-e Lamborghini's that couldn't open their doors if they were in a smaller parking lot. It's funny to see Eclipse's and Integra's with these doors. That is called "Fashion over Function"

Even though the Countach was a wide beast, it's doors weren't particualrly long either, that is what i'm saying that even though that works out pretty well, I've never read anything to suggest that was exactly why they did it that way. Furthermore, there is the fact that Marcello Gandini also penned the Carabo, which like the later countach had scissor doors also (and an unbroken line from the bonnet to the top of the windscreen.)








As for "Lambo" doors, those aren't really scissor doors, since they have to swing open normally before they can swing upwards: they're a really variation of dihedral door.


----------



## Egz (May 30, 2002)

In the states, when we want to refer to distance traveled in a car, we say 'mileage'. What do they say in Canada and GB? Kilometage?


----------



## autobahnmouse (Sep 25, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (TurboWraith)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TurboWraith* »_
the amount of torque you have determines your cars top speed (assuming gears are were they need to be) and hp determines how fast you are going to get there. 


then, how come the diesel (torquey) cars have a lower top speed than comparable gassers?


----------



## cstraw (Jan 9, 2002)

*Re: (Egz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Egz* »_In the states, when we want to refer to distance traveled in a car, we say 'mileage'. What do they say in Canada and GB? Kilometage?

Here in Canada it varies. Some Canadians (younger) may refer to the distance traveled as 'kilometerage', however you will find most folks still refer to distance traveled as mileage. Dialects and actual words chosen vary as much in Canada as they do in the US... don't you know y'all!








Take off eh... y' hosers!
Chris


----------



## buddahvw (May 4, 2004)

*Re: (cstraw)*

who wrote Little Women?


----------



## BMAN70 (Jun 11, 2004)

*Re: (cstraw)*

How come in the winter time when you somethimes see big trucks with cardbored or something tied up blocking off thier grill??


----------



## Samson (Dec 2, 1999)

*Re: (BMAN70)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BMAN70* »_How come in the winter time when you somethimes see big trucks with cardbored or something tied up blocking off thier grill??

So the engines will reach and maintain operating temperature in cold weather.
I knew a guy who did this to his Corrado SLC. Come spring... whoops. Already overstressed and under-built cooling system plus no way to, oh, cool the coolant? *PPPSSSssssshhhhh*


----------



## sciroccohal (May 4, 2005)

*Re: (enriquejcu)*

HC means NO HAZARDOUS CARGO


----------



## sciroccohal (May 4, 2005)

*Automatic into reverse*

Shifting into reverse WILL happen when the vehicle slows down to perhaps 20 mph... (it's vacuum operated generally) I know my dog did it once in my GTO Judge....I was doing 60 at the time...when I got to the bottom of the hill and slowed down...eeeerp! Exciting! The Dog is STILL imbedded in the dashboard....no damage except to the dog!


----------



## K2.0 (Aug 4, 2001)

*Re: (dastig)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dastig* »_What is Mopar. The only thing I know is it has something to do with Dodge.

*M*is *O*rganized *P*arts *A*ssembled *R*andomly


----------



## sciroccohal (May 4, 2005)

*MOPAR*

MOPAR= MOtor PARts...chrysler corp actually


----------



## AdrockMK2 (Apr 11, 2005)

High-Beams: Do they point higher than standard beam, or are they higher power of the same lighting pattern?


----------



## sciroccohal (May 4, 2005)

*Re: (AdrockMK2)*

Both....depends where the focal point of the high beam is in relation to the low beams.
However; Low beam 35 watts
High beam 55 watts
(old school numbers)


----------



## CBJ (Sep 16, 2000)

*Re: (TurboWraith)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TurboWraith* »_since an auto trans really doesnt 'shift gears' it engages clutches to change gears, you will most likely burn the hell out of the reverse clutch, then fry your torque converter as it is trying to stop your car. 
that is assuming that the hardware in the trans in strong enough not to snap and fall out of the car.









so, the advantage of a knife edged crank is less rotating mass? thats about all i can conclude from those pics.









Actually, if your car happens to be a Ford Torino Wagon I can tell you exactly what happens. Upon slamming into reverse the rear end will skid. If you now punch the gas you will get huge clouds of burning tire smoke billowing in the back window (you did leave it open didn't you) as you convert forward motion into reverse motion (it happens quicker then you think even at 50 mph). In some instances you will hear a flapping noise when you put it back in drive. That noise is a section of tread that has come free due to the shearing of the bias plys. A Ford tranny (as matted to a 351 in a said Torino) will withstand at least four such reverse drops at speeds upto 70 mph before exploding with a very boring POP. You will then have to learn how to replace such a tranny on someones dirt road come driveway (the second tranny may or may not last longer then the first or the third). 
Wasn't that fun. 
Now who wants to know what happens to a 1966 Porsche 912 if you forget there is a raised railroad crossing just ahead?


----------



## CosmicTDI (Oct 9, 2005)

*Re: (CBJ)*

WTF is Shocker?


----------



## sciroccohal (May 4, 2005)

*Re: (CBJ)*

Shifting into reverse WILL happen when the vehicle slows down to perhaps 20 mph... (it's vacuum operated generally) I know my dog did it once in my GTO Judge....I was doing 60 at the time...when I got to the bottom of the hill and slowed down...eeeerp! 
What I was trying to simplify is....that many automatic transmissions not only shift from differentials in hydraulic pressure but ALSO thru the Vacuum Modulator (sounds like that Martian's weapon in the Buggs Bunny cartoon!) When the vacuum is very low at high load it doesn't shift....then as you slow down.....eeeeeerp!


----------



## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

Plus, some come from the factory with computers to control shifting (eg mkIII auto). I realized this once when I was going about 80mph and accidently downshifted into 2nd. I just about had a heart attack before I realized I was still in 4th gear. I presume the same thing would happen if I threw it into reverse, nothing would occur.


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (CBJ)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CBJ* »_Actually, if your car happens to be a Ford Torino Wagon I can tell you exactly what happens. Upon slamming into reverse the rear end will skid. If you now punch the gas you will get huge clouds of burning tire smoke billowing in the back window (you did leave it open didn't you) as you convert forward motion into reverse motion (it happens quicker then you think even at 50 mph). In some instances you will hear a flapping noise when you put it back in drive. That noise is a section of tread that has come free due to the shearing of the bias plys. A Ford tranny (as matted to a 351 in a said Torino) will withstand at least four such reverse drops at speeds upto 70 mph before exploding with a very boring POP. You will then have to learn how to replace such a tranny on someones dirt road come driveway (the second tranny may or may not last longer then the first or the third). 
Wasn't that fun. 
Now who wants to know what happens to a 1966 Porsche 912 if you forget there is a raised railroad crossing just ahead?


----------



## ubermensch (Dec 21, 2004)

*Re: (CosmicTDI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CosmicTDI* »_WTF is Shocker? 

Two in the pink, one in the stink. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Kafer Wolf (Aug 1, 2002)

*Re: (ubermensch)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ubermensch* »_
Two in the pink, one in the stink. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
 






























_Quote, originally posted by *CBJ* »_Now who wants to know what happens to a 1966 Porsche 912 if you forget there is a raised railroad crossing just ahead?

<raises hand>


----------



## CBJ (Sep 16, 2000)

*Re: (Kafer Wolf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CBJ* »_ 
Now who wants to know what happens to a 1966 Porsche 912 if you forget there is a raised railroad crossing just ahead?


_Quote, originally posted by *Kafer Wolf* »_ 
<raises hand>









Sort of what one would expect, all the headlight adjustment screws either back themselves out, snap and or otherwise give up the ghost. You then drive home with one light afixed on the trees above (probably the right one) and the other pointing at the brush to your right (undoubtably the left one). 



_Modified by CBJ at 8:44 PM 12-20-2005_


----------



## Devious-Veedub (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (ubermensch)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ubermensch* »_
Two in the pink, one in the stink. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 









The shocker, for visual reference. (that's me on the right)


----------



## Kafer Wolf (Aug 1, 2002)

*Re: (sciroccohal)*

are semi-trucks AWD, FWD, or RWD?


----------



## someguy123 (Sep 30, 2005)

What to use to get rid of the black brake dust and mud that's dried out on the rims? They won't come off.
And, how do Claybars work? And anyone tried seafoam to clean their engine?


----------



## typ3 (Feb 4, 2004)

*Re: (mike_93jetta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mike_93jetta* »_no its not an advanced green, it means that the green light will continue for a little longer, its like a pre emtive yellow light

Sorry dude but here in Vancouver a flashing green just means a green that will stay green unless some event happens. Usually this event is a crosswalk being triggered. We have one of these lights next to my housel. It goes flashing green->green->yellow->red. 
It might be different back east.


----------



## munkey (Apr 30, 2004)

*Re: (Kafer Wolf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Kafer Wolf* »_are semi-trucks AWD, FWD, or RWD?

i've always thought of them as being rwd without a trailer, and fwd with trailer?


----------



## SC_VW (Sep 2, 2005)

i have never seen the lumber thread and i really want to does anyonehave the link i tried searching for it but none of the links worked,,please help


----------



## jeff1234 (Apr 24, 2002)

What causes the ticking sound the car makes after shutting off the engine?


----------



## Mike! (Jun 18, 2002)

*Re: (jeff1234)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jeff1234* »_What causes the ticking sound the car makes after shutting off the engine?

If I'm thinking what you're thinking, it would be the oil dripping back to the oil pan.
Mike


----------



## JayB (Dec 15, 2001)

*Re: (jeff1234)*

Heat dispersion.


----------



## .BRuno. (Jun 16, 2003)

If my car has wheel offset +35 and I put +25 wheels, will they be more to the outside or inside?


----------



## Dubai Vol (Jan 8, 2002)

*Re: (jeff1234)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jeff1234* »_What causes the ticking sound the car makes after shutting off the engine?

I know the sound you are thinking of, and it's hot metal cooling off and contracting. All those places where metal bits are bolted together, cooling at different rates, and thus contracting at different rates, makes them move relative to each other. Just a little, but enough to cause the bit of movement you hear as a tick, tick....tick, etc. Nothing to worry about: the engineers took it into account in the design. 
I know this because I have seen instances where thermal expansion was NOT allowed for in the design. Not in cars, but in a refinery. Bad news.


----------



## 91gti20v (Jul 18, 2001)

*Re: (.BRuno.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *.BRuno.* »_If my car has wheel offset +35 and I put +25 wheels, will they be more to the outside or inside?

Outside. The higher number positive offset, the less "dish" a wheel would have. So a zero offset wheel that were 8 inches wide would have the mounting surface right in the middle of the wheel and have 4 inches of dish. Is that clear enough? Feel free to ask any follow up questions...
Good pic for reference...










_Modified by 91gti20v at 1:04 PM 12-25-2005_


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (Kafer Wolf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Kafer Wolf* »_are semi-trucks AWD, FWD, or RWD?

the two rear axles of the tractor are driven. (not including the trailer)
so, technicly, 8 wheel drive


----------



## THE KILLER RABBIT (Jun 2, 2003)

*Re: (TurboWraith)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TurboWraith* »_the two rear axles of the tractor are driven. (not including the trailer)
so, technicly, 8 wheel drive









hmm i thought it was only the middle set of 4 wheels were driven. the rear wheels are just support for the tongue of the trailer.


----------



## .BRuno. (Jun 16, 2003)

*Re: (91gti20v)*

Thanks!!!


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (my merc 4)*

nope, all of the full sized trucks i have worked on, both the middle axle and rear axle are driven.


----------



## SlowMotion (Jun 9, 2002)

*Re: (TurboWraith)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TurboWraith* »_nope, all of the full sized trucks i have worked on, both the middle axle and rear axle are driven.

actually they could be both driven under certain conditions i.e stuck in the snow, loosing traction on the rear axle.
for the most part only the rear axle is use.


----------



## veedubbn88 (Oct 20, 2004)

*Re: (hotshotz16v)*

whats the difference between horsepower and torque? like if you drove a car with a high hp and very low torque, how could you tell...and vice versa?


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (veedubbn88)*

i could go on about that for a while....but basicly...
torque = rotational force
torque is a function of displacement, forced induction changes this significantly.
HP = work done over time
HP is a fuction of torque and RPM, the faster an engine spins, the more potential HP could be generated. (honda engines)
ultilmatly, torque will dictate how fast your car can go (friction, wind resistance etc) and HP will dictate how fast your car can do this.

high HP engines with lower torque (S2000 is a good example) can accelerate very quickly, but generally will have lower top speeds and less overall 'snap' when the throttle is depressed. conversly, low HP, high torque engines (TDI MK4 is a good one) can have a higher top speed because of a higher torque output, but will take significantly longer to get there because their power rating (read, work done over time) is lower.


----------



## BMAN70 (Jun 11, 2004)

*Re: (TurboWraith)*

One thing I always wondered:
How come when you see some races, sometimes cars will have x's taped over their headlights??










_Modified by BMAN70 at 6:40 PM 12-27-2005_


----------



## Dubai Vol (Jan 8, 2002)

*Re: (BMAN70)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BMAN70* »_One thing I always wondered:
How come when you see some races, sometimes cars will have x's taped over their headlights??


It's in the event of a collision, to hold the glass together and stop it going all over the track. But that Bimmer driver isn't serious about his: that job wouldn't work....


----------



## BMAN70 (Jun 11, 2004)

*Re: (Dubai Vol)*

That makes sense! Thx http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## satinsilvr6 (Oct 20, 2003)

*Re: (Dubai Vol)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Dubai Vol* »_ But that Bimmer driver isn't serious about his: that job wouldn't work....

why is that? I could use some education.
Here's something I've always wondered regarding traffic laws in the states.
When my car is stopped at a red light and I want to make a LEFT onto a one-way street, do I need to wait for the green light to make the turn? or can I just make the turn while the signal is red?
To me it just makes sense not to wait for the green light.
If my sentences are confusing, I apologize.


----------



## Kafer Wolf (Aug 1, 2002)

*Re: (satinsilvr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *satinsilvr6* »_
why is that? I could use some education.
Here's something I've always wondered regarding traffic laws in the states.
When my car is stopped at a red light and I want to make a LEFT onto a one-way street, do I need to wait for the green light to make the turn? or can I just make the turn while the signal is red?
To me it just makes sense not to wait for the green light.
If my sentences are confusing, I apologize.

i don't wait for the red light. nobody does. i think it's a "turn right anytime with care" turn.


----------



## ksmith (Jun 5, 2005)

*Re: (satinsilvr6)*

Yes turning left onto a one way when the light is red is legal unless it is posted otherwise.


----------



## HarryHood (Mar 17, 2000)

*Re: (ksmith)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ksmith* »_Yes turning left onto a one way when the light is red is legal unless it is posted otherwise.

Only if you are also on a one-way street. If you are on a two way street and get to a one way street and want to turn left, no way.


----------



## ksmith (Jun 5, 2005)

*Re: (HarryHood)*

Your right... wasn't thinking. Happens a lot.


----------



## Devious-Veedub (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (ksmith)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ksmith* »_Your right... wasn't thinking. Happens a lot.

If that's the case, you'll fit right in The Car Lounge!


----------



## Devious-Veedub (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (Devious-Veedub)*

How does this work? (The shifter)








ANd more pics, because the Spyker is just plain beautiful!


----------



## dastig (Nov 12, 2004)

It works like any other transmission. There is a link to the shifter to the tranny. Take away the shift boot and you'll see the same idea.


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (dastig)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dastig* »_It works like any other transmission. There is a link to the shifter to the tranny. Take away the shift boot and you'll see the same idea.

its not like -any- other trans. most manual shift cars today are cable shifted instead of having a rigid linkage. but you are right, the idea is the same.


----------



## depireux (Feb 4, 2002)

*Re: (dastig)*

Is the car in "Chitty Chitty Bang Bang"'s movie version based on anything real? (before it floats and flies, that is)


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

*Re: (depireux)*

Yes. 
A Zborowski special based on a Mercedes chassis and a six cylinder Maybach aero engine. A whopping 75 horsepower lugged five tons of grey steel to short-track wins at the Brooklands in 1921 and 1922.


----------



## Seitan (Nov 1, 2002)

*Re: (atomicalex)*

I have a question that may have been covered, but has always left me pondering.
automatic transmissions get by with 3 and 4 speeds quite often, yet manual transmissions have long abandoned anything less than 5 speeds...why is this? what is different about automatic transmissions that allows them to have fewer gears yet still seem to have pretty good gearing ratios?


----------



## THE KILLER RABBIT (Jun 2, 2003)

*Re: (silvERia)*


_Quote, originally posted by *silvERia* »_I have a question that may have been covered, but has always left me pondering.
automatic transmissions get by with 3 and 4 speeds quite often, yet manual transmissions have long abandoned anything less than 5 speeds...why is this? what is different about automatic transmissions that allows them to have fewer gears yet still seem to have pretty good gearing ratios?

you can get away with less gears if u have torque., there have been concept cars with only 1 gear (usually eletric)


----------



## 13minutes (Sep 8, 2002)

*Re: (my merc 4)*

Here's a doozy:
What is with the obsession of manufacturers to seek to cover every single little freaking niche in the market?


----------



## Captain Yar (Dec 9, 2005)

*Re: (13minutes)*


_Quote, originally posted by *13minutes* »_Here's a doozy:
What is with the obsession of manufacturers to seek to cover every single little freaking niche in the market?

Because that's where the money is at. Not just car companies either! Niche marketing has proven to be very beneficial in the long run. Do something specific, and do it very well.


----------



## 13minutes (Sep 8, 2002)

*Re: (Tul Thams)*

But thern it's not niche marketing when your hand is in every crevice of the market.


----------



## Manu44 (Dec 5, 2003)

*Re: (13minutes)*

Why does my mom insist on buying only tan Camrys?


----------



## gobluevw (May 22, 2003)

*Re: (Manu44)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Manu44* »_Why does my mom insist on buying only tan Camrys?

she's never had a reason not to?


----------



## Manu44 (Dec 5, 2003)

*Re: (gobluevw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gobluevw* »_she's never had a reason not to?

unfortunately that is probably right....


----------



## Seitan (Nov 1, 2002)

*Re: (my merc 4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *my merc 4* »_you can get away with less gears if u have torque., there have been concept cars with only 1 gear (usually eletric)

I understand, but why does the same car come with a 3 speed automatic when the manual is 5 speeds? what is different about the gearing?


----------



## Captain Yar (Dec 9, 2005)

*Re: (13minutes)*


_Quote, originally posted by *13minutes* »_But thern it's not niche marketing when your hand is in every crevice of the market.

Well, yeah, but they're covering the all the niches because they can, because every niche has potential for profit.


----------



## Four Speed Fox (May 16, 2005)

*Re: (silvERia)*


_Quote, originally posted by *silvERia* »_
I understand, but why does the same car come with a 3 speed automatic when the manual is 5 speeds? what is different about the gearing?

A fluid torque converter can multiply torque by a factor of 2 or 3 to 1, increasing the engine's effective rev range considerably.


----------



## schwank (May 13, 2004)

*Re: (d6)*

A bit behind the line of questioning perhaps, but here in Oregon we now have protected yellows as well... allowing you to turn left across oncoming traffic when the road is clear.
Only difference is you can go when it's clear, and not have to wait a whole cycle for the stupid turn arrow.


----------



## Seitan (Nov 1, 2002)

*Re: (Four Speed Fox)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Four Speed Fox* »_A fluid torque converter can multiply torque by a factor of 2 or 3 to 1, increasing the engine's effective rev range considerably. 

gocha, thanks!


----------



## MatchStick (Nov 16, 2000)

How is it possible for a region of Germany to own 18.2% of VAG?


----------



## zoob (Jan 10, 2006)

*Re: (thesteve)*

Left-hand drive vs. Right-hand drive...
Not sure if this has already been answered but here goes...
Most of the world's population is right-handed so many years ago it was natural for people carrying swords to keep them on the left. Therefore, people generally passed each other on the right as they could protect themselves with their right (sword) arm if necessary.
The fact that most of the world now drives on the right is because of a rather irritating little French chap called Napoleon who was left-handed. He therefore insisted that his armies pass on the left and this became common throughout Europe (with the notable exception of the UK for obvious reasons).
The fact that the US drives on the right is generally thought to be because of French influence.
Almost all of the countries that still drive on the left are former British colonies - a notable exception being Japan which drives on the left for the above (Samurai) sword reason.


----------



## slimmjimm (Dec 14, 2003)

*Re: (zoob)*

OK, I've got one that I haven't thought about in a while. What is the deal the the orange colored "13's" on the backs of vans I see all of the time. I seriously only see it on vans, and I saw one tonight to peak my curiosity again. I'm sure it's probably obvious, but I'm in the dark. Any help?


----------



## SVT2888 (May 17, 2005)

*Re: (slimmjimm)*

What is a CPO car? I just saw that on another thread.


----------



## Captain Yar (Dec 9, 2005)

*Re: (SVT2888)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SVT2888* »_What is a CPO car? I just saw that on another thread.

Certified Pre-Owned
Volkswagen has the best CPO program for non-luxury cars, Jaguar has it for luxury.


----------



## Seitan (Nov 1, 2002)

*Re: (Tul Thams)*

I could've sworn I've seen CPO used in conjunction with ex cop cars too though, is that a different abbreviation?


----------



## Captain Yar (Dec 9, 2005)

*Re: (silvERia)*

Maybe they just switched the O and the P...?


----------



## peterjmag (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (Four Speed Fox)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Four Speed Fox* »_A fluid torque converter can multiply torque by a factor of 2 or 3 to 1, increasing the engine's effective rev range considerably. 

Doesn't it have something to do with cost, too? A 3-speed automatic is going to be cheaper than a 5-speed, and carmakers don't want the option of an automatic to increase the price of the car way too much.


----------



## zoob (Jan 10, 2006)

*Re: (Egz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Egz* »_In the states, when we want to refer to distance traveled in a car, we say 'mileage'. What do they say in Canada and GB? Kilometage?

All the signs, speed limits and speedos here in GB are in Miles so we say 'Mileage' too.


----------



## CORNBREAD_122 (Jan 10, 2006)

*Re: (zoob)*

OK here is one.....what exactly does variable valve timing do?


----------



## zoob (Jan 10, 2006)

*Re: (CORNBREAD_122)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CORNBREAD_122* »_
OK here is one.....what exactly does variable valve timing do?

Allows the valves to open more or less and/or for greater or shorter periods of time. This gets the best out of the engine right across the rev range.
Put simply, more power, more of the time.


----------



## das boot (Apr 14, 2003)

*Re: (CORNBREAD_122)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slimmjimm* »_OK, I've got one that I haven't thought about in a while. What is the deal the the orange colored "13's" on the backs of vans I see all of the time. I seriously only see it on vans, and I saw one tonight to peak my curiosity again. I'm sure it's probably obvious, but I'm in the dark. Any help?

Since you live in PA, i'd have to say they're NASCAR stickers, unless you're referring to something totally different.

_Quote, originally posted by *CORNBREAD_122* »_OK here is one.....what exactly does variable valve timing do?

On the Mazda 6, the VVT means: Variable Intake valve Timing (cam-phasing, intake cam only)


_Quote, originally posted by *mazda6tech.com* »_Variable valve timing (VVT) and the variable length intake manifold (VLIM) are designed to broaden the torqueband of the engine. The goal is to have an engine that makes lots of torque throughout its entire rev range. While not the originator of the technology, variable valve timing has probably been made most famous by Honda's VTEC technology. It is important to note that Mazda's S-VT (sequential valve timing, as Mazda calls it) is very different from VTEC, however- there are different forms of variable valve timing.
The engines in the Mazda6 have static camshafts. A camshaft is designed to offer it's peak performance at a single RPM. Some are optimally tuned for low-RPM power, such as most torquey truck engines and towing applications, and others are tuned for high-RPM power, such as in motorcycles. Most passenger vehicles fall somewhere in-between these two extremes.
Because camshafts are optimized for a single RPM, it would be beneficial if an engine could use two camshafts- one optimized for low RPMs, and the other optimized for high RPMs. Somewhere in-between, the engine would switch from one cam to the other.
This, in essence, is what Honda's VTEC does. VTEC allows two different cam profiles on the same shaft to switch nearly instantly, giving two very distinct timings. At higher RPMs, the valves open longer, faster, and higher for better breathing. At lower RPMs, the shorter valve openings keep the charge of incoming air at high velocity. The intake and exhaust valve opening times will overlap as RPMs rise, recycling some of the charge the outgoing air creates.
Mazda's engines are not quite so sophisticated. Mazda uses a static camshaft, however the shaft is attached to a cog that can advance or retard its rotation. The valves can open sooner or later, but never longer, faster, or higher. The cog is controlled by a precision oil pump, called the oil control valve (OCV). The car's computer tells the OCV how much to advance or retard the intake timing based on a number of input parameters, such as pedal pressure, engine temp, and more. The dyno pictured below is from a Mazda Miata engine, not a Mazda6. However, the engine uses the same S-VT as the Mazda6.


----------



## slimmjimm (Dec 14, 2003)

*Re: (das boot)*


_Quote, originally posted by *das boot* »_Since you live in PA, i'd have to say they're NASCAR stickers, unless you're referring to something totally different.


Nope it's literally "13's" with the 's on there. I've seen them around for a long time, way before the current NASCAR boom.


----------



## SC_VW (Sep 2, 2005)

*Re: (slimmjimm)*

not really car related but cl related...i cant seem to find the original "crub fents burshes" thread...ive searched everywhere and still cant find it...anyone have the thread?


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (SC_VW)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SC_VW* »_not really car related but cl related...i cant seem to find the original "crub fents burshes" thread...ive searched everywhere and still cant find it...anyone have the thread?

i think it was blackholed.


----------



## SC_VW (Sep 2, 2005)

*Re: (TurboWraith)*

nooooooooooooo!!! i love that thread and wanted to read it again...maybe it will come out tho...theytend to do that here and there


----------



## K-Style_28 (Aug 28, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (jebglx)*

what's the size in cubic inches of a Dodge Ram Hemi '05
one of my friends tell me that it was a 340


----------



## mx5er (Apr 28, 2001)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were al ...*

How come the radiator grills of commerical diesel trucks covered during the winter? I've seen custom vinyl ones to ghetto cardboard covers.


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (K-Style_28)*


_Quote, originally posted by *K-Style_28* »_what's the size in cubic inches of a Dodge Ram Hemi '05
one of my friends tell me that it was a 340

the hemi is a 5.7L engine. which happens to be the same displacment of the 5.7L small block chevy, which is also known as the "350".
the exact conversion is 347.835CI


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were al ... (mx5er)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mx5er* »_How come the radiator grills of commerical diesel trucks covered during the winter? I've seen custom vinyl ones to ghetto cardboard covers.










to allow the engine to reach operating temp. on highway trucks usually have a very large radiator core to cool them in the summer. in the winter months the engine will never quite get to the full temp after the themostat allows coolant into the core, so they quick fix was to cover most of the core to restrict airflow over it.


----------



## The Kasten (Oct 23, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (TurboWraith)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TurboWraith* »_the hemi is a 5.7L engine. which happens to be the same displacment of the 5.7L small block chevy, which is also known as the "350".
the exact conversion is 347.835CI

The 5.7 LS1 is 346 cubic inches. The 5.7 LT1 is a 350....

from allpar.com, the hemi is a 345 ci. (5654 ccm) 5.65 rounds up to 5.7...
calculate it from bore and stroke 
3.92 x 3.58 bore


----------



## one_vee_dub (Dec 5, 2003)

*Re: (cstraw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cstraw* »_
Here in Canada it varies. Some Canadians (younger) may refer to the distance traveled as 'kilometerage', however you will find most folks still refer to distance traveled as mileage. Dialects and actual words chosen vary as much in Canada as they do in the US... don't you know y'all!








Take off eh... y' hosers!
Chris


I can't beleive a fellow Canadian wrote this reply!! 
I mean honestly.....In all my years on this planet (29)[99% of which were spent in Canada], I have NEVER heard the term "Kilometerage"

come one.....like, how rediculous does that sound....honestly..hahahha

If someone asks how far something is....
reply is: "25 k" or "25 kilometers"
question is "what sort of mileage do you get on your car"
most people say "400k to the tank" or "400 kilometers to the tank"
few people can convert to MPG these days up here...let alone KPL

Mileage is just a generic term we use up here to describe distance travelled. We USED to me in miles up here, but those days are long gone.....mileage stuck since it's easy to say, and it's still used widely across the world


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (The Kasten)*


_Quote, originally posted by *The Kasten* »_The 5.7 LS1 is 346 cubic inches. The 5.7 LT1 is a 350....

from allpar.com, the hemi is a 345 ci. (5654 ccm) 5.65 rounds up to 5.7...
calculate it from bore and stroke 
3.92 x 3.58 bore

sorry i didnt get technical enough for you.








a 5 cubic inch difference wont make a snip of difference in any form at that engine size anyway.


----------



## nevermas (Aug 12, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (TurboWraith)*

what is vdub? just a cool way of saying vw or something more?


----------



## Huckvw (Aug 29, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (nevermas)*

volkswagen -> vee double you (vw) -> vee dub -> dub


----------



## K-Style_28 (Aug 28, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (TurboWraith)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TurboWraith* »_
sorry i didnt get technical enough for you.








a 5 cubic inch difference wont make a snip of difference in any form at that engine size anyway.


it's all right, thanks very much! I don't have any other questions for the moment.


----------



## Intalex (Mar 1, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (K-Style_28)*

Sort of embarassed to ask, but whatever. What is the advantage of SOHC/DOHC over pushrods? I see modern muscle cars sticking to pushrods with great HP numbers, would they make better results with DOHC?
I know the 2001ish stangs with DOHC made really nice power, but the engines were enormous compared to the old 302. I wonder if ford would have stuck to pushrods, could they have made as good numbers today?


----------



## poorkid (Apr 14, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (Intalex)*

V_ariable
T_iming
E_ngine 
C_ams
all this does is save fuel, correct?


----------



## 97jetta2.8 (Oct 6, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (poorkid)*


_Quote, originally posted by *poorkid* »_V_ariable
T_iming
E_ngine 
C_ams
all this does is save fuel, correct?

Wrong
Variable-Timing & lift, Electronically Controlled: This is Honda's term for their technology that adjusts the amount that intake/exhaust valves are opened based on the current engine speed. The Insight uses a variation of the VTEC system that Honda calls VTEC-E ("E" standing for efficiency), that operates only on the intake valves.


----------



## 330R (Apr 22, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (poorkid)*


_Quote, originally posted by *poorkid* »_V_ariable
T_iming
E_ngine 
C_ams
all this does is save fuel, correct?

*V*ariable Valve *T*iming and Lift *E*lectronic *C*ontrol http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
VTEC-E was simply to save fuel. The more common VTEC and i-VTEC systems used in their sportier cars is designed for low RPM fuel economy that crosses over to high RPM performance.
That's the short version.


----------



## AKADriver (Nov 20, 2001)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (poorkid)*


_Quote, originally posted by *poorkid* »_V_ariable
T_iming
E_ngine 
C_ams
all this does is save fuel, correct?

wrong, and wrong acronym.
It's Variable valve Timing and lift with Electronic Control.
It allows the engine to run two cam profiles, one for low rpm/low load, one for high rpm/high load. Imagine being able to have a Schrick 268 over 5000rpm and a stock cam below 5000rpm - that's exactly what VTEC allows. Without some kind of variable valve timing, high-rpm screamer engines are still possible, but they have poor idle, drivability, fuel consumption, and emissions in normal driving. You could say it's to save fuel, but it also makes the engines smoother, cleaner, and yes - torquier.


----------



## Sepp (Dec 10, 2002)

*Re: (my merc 4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *my merc 4* »_whats the deal with the wole "Ur" designation for audi. ex ample urs4 etc...

Audi has had a knack for naming a vehicle (I.E. _the_ quattro, built in 1980) named so becuase it was the first production Audi to use this drivetrain.
Later, when Audi expanded it's range of cars that featured the "quattro" drivetrain, they added nice little badges, and decals to let the customers, and other drivers know that the car was graced with AWD.
So now you had a 4000 quattro, 5000 quattro etc.
Many times when you say that you have a quattro, people often ask "what _kind_ of quattro?" 4000? 100? 200? V8? 80? 90?
To ease the lengh of conversation, and due to the pride of the owners of the original quattros, the Germans (I think) added the prefix _ur_ (German for the word Original) to the cars name to let the unlearned know they have a quattro
Fast forward to _the_ s4, first in production in 1992
It was based of the 100 (C4) chassis, and had the ever beautifuly engineered ANN 5 cylinder 20v turbo engine..ect, etc....
Before the birth of the desiginators of the A4, A6, A8 namesake Audi had designators based off the chassis in a diferent chassis sequece A, B, C, etc.

C was the 5000 for instance, the 5000 was replaced by the european designator 100/200 The C4 (the 4th bodied design C chasis car) 100 was caught in the middle of the designator changeover from C4, to A6 in 1995.
Back to the urs4. Since they were making the s4 back since 1992 and at the time when the changed the designator in 1995, the s4 was all of a sudden the s6! (for the most part identical cars except for color coded trim, and some other small details)
1998 came around and the S4 was released again, but under the current designation of the B chaiss car.
So, Audi did a name change again!
The C4s4 owners adopted the _ur_ to designate that thier cars were the _original_ s4, and not the smaller, B chassis car.
I hope this answered your question, and didn't confuse anyone. 
Few people know this, and even fewer know that there is an actual urTT made originally by Audi partner NSU.
Such a sucessful race car, they kinda made a tribute to it later with the current TT. (I'll take the original please!)


_Modified by Sepp at 1:03 AM 1-14-2006_


----------



## Asperi (Jul 22, 2001)

*Re: (Sepp)*

can somebody explain "Orange peel"? .... sorry :-/


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (Intalex)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Intalex* »_Sort of embarassed to ask, but whatever. What is the advantage of SOHC/DOHC over pushrods? I see modern muscle cars sticking to pushrods with great HP numbers, would they make better results with DOHC?
I know the 2001ish stangs with DOHC made really nice power, but the engines were enormous compared to the old 302. I wonder if ford would have stuck to pushrods, could they have made as good numbers today?

all things equal, the only thing that OHC designs allow for is greater engine speeds because of less reciprocating mass. end of discussion.
that said, -most- pushrod engines are cheaper designs for cost savings. if you were to change the valve system to OHC they would not be able to spin much faster anyways.


----------



## Seitan (Nov 1, 2002)

*Re: (GTI628V)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GTI628V* »_can somebody explain "Orange peel"? .... sorry :-/

it's a description of the way the paint has laid down on the body of the car...when looking at areas on most cars (pretty much all cars except the most elite show cars) have areas of the paint that resemble the surface of an orange, hence orange peel....just look closely at any car and you'll see it (easier to see on darker cars)


----------



## nevermas (Aug 12, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (TurboWraith)*

What is A-pillar, B-pillar, and why are they called that?


----------



## Markasaurus! (May 25, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (nevermas)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nevermas* »_What is A-pillar, B-pillar, and why are they called that? 

A would be the front pillar connecting the roof to the body of the car along the windshield. The B pillar would be the one in the middle between the doors if a sedan, and at the end of the door if a coupe. The C pillar would be the one at the back. I don't know why they're called that.


----------



## Chris W (Dec 14, 1999)

*engine sound, not sure if mentioned*

Ive always wondered about engine size and character of sound based on cylinder number. Why do Ferrari V-8 sound so different from other V-8's.


----------



## lightsandsirens (Jun 2, 2002)

*Re: engine sound, not sure if mentioned (Chris W)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Chris W* »_Ive always wondered about engine size and character of sound based on cylinder number. Why do Ferrari V-8 sound so different from other V-8's. 

You've pretty much answered you own question. Engine size/character/design/intake/exhaust all make up the sound of an engine. Not just a V8 but anything. Why doesn't a 4cyl from a Cavalier sound the same as a 4cyl from say an S2000?


----------



## 330R (Apr 22, 2005)

*Re: engine sound, not sure if mentioned (Chris W)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Chris W* »_Ive always wondered about engine size and character of sound based on cylinder number. Why do Ferrari V-8 sound so different from other V-8's. 

Take a Ferrari 360 Modena for example. It has a 3.6 liter V8 engine. That's the same displacement as two 1.8 liter Acura Integra GS-Rs. Both share somewhat similar bore x stroke, with a short stroke to allow for high revving. Their powerbands are somewhat similar, as well (not their power output, of course!). They both make their peak hp higher in the rev range than a larger displacement engine with longer stroke.
Sorry, but I'm too lazy to provide specs for comparison.








Oddly enough, from watching several videos of F360s (not lucky enough to see one in person, much less ride in one), from inside the cabin the engine sounds much like an Integra GS-R, x2 if you will. Of course, on the outside, the fantastic exhaust note of the Ferrari is nothing like the Integra.












_Modified by 330R at 11:16 PM 1-14-2006_


----------



## 330R (Apr 22, 2005)

*Re: engine sound, not sure if mentioned (330R)*

I'm looking for my Nomex flamesuit, btw, expecting to catch hell for that last post.


----------



## Sepp (Dec 10, 2002)

*Re: engine sound, not sure if mentioned (330R)*

Wondering what Own3d, and all of the other varations of such stand for???
-no seriously
Thanks


----------



## 53Bicycles (Jul 17, 2001)

In a right hand drive car:
1) Is the shift pattern for a manual reversed?
(i.e. 1st gear on the right)
2) How about the pedals?
(gas on the left?)


----------



## BrokeDown. (Sep 1, 2004)

*Re: engine sound, not sure if mentioned (Sepp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Sepp* »_Wondering what Own3d, and all of the other varations of such stand for???
-no seriously
Thanks

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Own3d


----------



## nevermas (Aug 12, 2005)

*Re: (53Bicycles)*


_Quote, originally posted by *53Bicycles* »_In a right hand drive car:
1) Is the shift pattern for a manual reversed?
(i.e. 1st gear on the right)
2) How about the pedals?
(gas on the left?)

the pedals are still the same and nothing is reversed


----------



## cosmic_gti (Jul 14, 1999)

*Re: (nevermas)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nevermas* »_
the pedals are still the same and nothing is reversed

So first is furthest from your body and reverse is closest???


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (cosmic_gti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cosmic_gti* »_So first is furthest from your body and reverse is closest??? 

bingo


----------



## [email protected] (Dec 2, 2004)

*Re: (Dubai Vol)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Dubai Vol* »_
It's in the event of a collision, to hold the glass together and stop it going all over the track. But that Bimmer driver isn't serious about his: that job wouldn't work....

The best is when people tape their headlights... when they have plastic covers, not glass


----------



## THE KILLER RABBIT (Jun 2, 2003)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (TurboWraith)*

how do you double clutch


----------



## veedubbn88 (Oct 20, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (my merc 4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *my merc 4* »_how do you double clutch

someone correct me if im wrong here, but im pretty sure...
1. clutch in, pull car out of gear into neutral
2. clutch out
3. clutch back in, put it into the lower gear, rev match, then let the clutch out slowly
As far as I know, double clutching is only necessary in cars without syncro-mesh transmissions 


_Modified by veedubbn88 at 10:03 PM 1-15-2006_


----------



## 2003_Passat_1.8T (Mar 2, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (veedubbn88)*


_Quote, originally posted by *veedubbn88* »_
someone correct me if im wrong here, but im pretty sure...
1. clutch in, pull car out of gear into neutral
2. clutch out
3. clutch back in, put it into the lower gear, rev match, then let the clutch out slowly
As far as I know, double clutching is only necessary in cars without syncro-mesh transmissions 

_Modified by veedubbn88 at 10:03 PM 1-15-2006_


Correct. If you listen closely during the chase in Bullet you can hear Steve McQueen double clutching the 'Stang because we all know they are really hard to get into gear when hammering around.


----------



## THE KILLER RABBIT (Jun 2, 2003)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (2003_Passat_1.8T)*

so what exactly is the point of double clutching then?


----------



## Dubai Vol (Jan 8, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (veedubbn88)*


_Quote, originally posted by *veedubbn88* »_
someone correct me if im wrong here, but im pretty sure...

As far as I know, double clutching is only necessary in cars without syncro-mesh transmissions 

_Modified by veedubbn88 at 10:03 PM 1-15-2006_

Almost, you missed out the improtant step:
1. clutch in, pull car out of gear into neutral
2. clutch out
*3. rev match to get the gears going the same speed*
4. clutch back in, put it into the lower gear, rev match, then let the clutch out

As complex as that sounds, it can actually be faster to double-clutch a big downshift, say 5th to 2nd, than to wait for the synchros to do it. It's also a lot easier on the gearbox. You can in fact drive a car without using the clutch at all if you rev-match properly. The only problem comes when you have to stop!
_Modified by Dubai Vol at 7:23 AM 1-16-2006_


_Modified by Dubai Vol at 7:24 AM 1-16-2006_


----------



## razster (May 15, 2004)

*Re: engine sound, not sure if mentioned (Chris W)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Chris W* »_Ive always wondered about engine size and character of sound based on cylinder number. Why do Ferrari V-8 sound so different from other V-8's. 

here are two classic types of V8s which differ by crankshaft:
* The cross-plane V8 is the typical V8 configuration used in American road cars. Each crank pin (of four) is at a 90° angle from the previous, so that viewed from the end the crankshaft forms a cross. The cross-plane can achieve very good balance but requires heavy counterweights on the crankshaft. This makes the cross-plane V8 a slow-revving engine that cannot speed up or slow down very quickly compared to other designs, because of the greater rotating mass. While the firing of the cross-plane V8 is regular overall, the firing of each bank is not; this leads to the need to connect exhaust pipes between the two banks to design an optimal exhaust system. This complex and encumbering exhaust system has been a major problem for single-seater racing car designers.
* The flat-plane V8 design has crank pins at 180°. They are imperfectly balanced and thus produce severe vibrations unless balance shafts are used. As they don't require counterweights, the crankshaft has less mass and thus inertia, allowing higher RPM and quicker acceleration. The design was popularized in modern racing with the Coventry Climax 1.5 L V8 which evolved from a cross-plane to a flat-plane configuration. Flat-plane V8s on road cars come from Ferrari (the Dino), Lotus (the Esprit V8), and TVR (the Speed Eight). This design is popular in racing engines, the most famous example being the Cosworth DFV.
http://www.answers.com/topic/v8-1
That is just one of the reasons. As mentioned before many thinks make the sound of the engine.


----------



## nevermas (Aug 12, 2005)

*Re: engine sound, not sure if mentioned (razster)*

without resorting to forced air induction, how would one increase greatly horsepower and torque?


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: engine sound, not sure if mentioned (nevermas)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nevermas* »_without resorting to forced air induction, how would one increase greatly horsepower and torque?

a few different ways you can up both. but generally in a N/A application HP is much easier to increase than torque. Torque is a function of displacment, so mathmaticly, it is pretty much impossible, but its not that black and white. obviously, doing all the upgrades like cams, lifters, springs, balanced crank, fuel settings, injectors, hotter sparks...they all can help raise the power level. either by burning more fuel per cycle (this is going to get you more power and torque) or by spinning the engine faster. (which will only gain HP). as a side note, spinning and engine faster will not always yeild higher power, it has to be tuned right etc etc.
the other way, which is often thought of as forced induction anyway is nitrous oxide. basicly a turbo in a bottle. this will/can greatly increase torque and hp because MUCH more fuel can be burned at once as the N20 carries the nessisary oxygen with it.
another way to do it, which has been done for a long time in the muscle car area, is bore and stroke. physically machining the engine block to a larger displacement will increase the potential for power and torque.


----------



## Danza (Jun 29, 2004)

*Re: engine sound, not sure if mentioned (TurboWraith)*

What is/What is the purpose of an oversize"d" piston?
Why would a manufacturer (honda) manufacture both the normal and o/s version?


----------



## 4thvw (Jan 4, 2004)

*Re: engine sound, not sure if mentioned (01Geezer)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01Geezer* »_What is/What is the purpose of an oversize"d" piston?
Why would a manufacturer (honda) manufacture both the normal and o/s version?

So an engine with badly scored or otherwise damaged cylinder walls can be bored out to a larger size when being rebuilt, thus saving what would be an unusable block.


----------



## Danza (Jun 29, 2004)

*Re: engine sound, not sure if mentioned (4thvw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *4thvw* »_
So an engine with badly scored or otherwise damaged cylinder walls can be bored out to a larger size when being rebuilt, thus saving what would be an unusable block.

So no performance benefit? I couldn't think of any real performance benefit yet I saw many honda builds using OS pistons on stock sleeves. Maybe they were lightly bored in a way to refinish them so the OS was necessary?
Thanks for the help http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 4thvw (Jan 4, 2004)

*Re: engine sound, not sure if mentioned (01Geezer)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01Geezer* »_So no performance benefit? 

There will be some performance benefit, due to increased displacement although it may be small depending on how much the increase is. A re-build is the reason many OEM and aftermarket piston suppliers make these, Hot rodders just use this to their advantage.


----------



## alman (Sep 17, 2001)

*Re: engine sound, not sure if mentioned (4thvw)*

Why do manufactures use a mixture of metric and imperial when advertising their cars (2.4L 150-horsepower)?


----------



## Intalex (Mar 1, 2002)

*Re: engine sound, not sure if mentioned (alman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *alman* »_Why do manufactures use a mixture of metric and imperial when advertising their cars (2.4L 150-horsepower)?

They usually use the most popular form of measurements. I'm not sure exactly why they still use liters to describe engines though.


----------



## theKid (Nov 26, 2003)

*Re: engine sound, not sure if mentioned (Intalex)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Intalex* »_
I'm not sure exactly why they still use liters to describe engines though. 

still? STILL?
we should be using metric!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Huckvw (Aug 29, 2004)

*Re: engine sound, not sure if mentioned (theKid)*

is brake horsepower any different than normal horsepower? Or is it just a different way of saying 'at the crank' or something?


----------



## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

*Re: engine sound, not sure if mentioned (Huckvw)*

Why do the horns of some cars not work without the key? You might still need to use it; I don't see the reasoning.


----------



## robw_z (Jun 21, 2002)

*Re: engine sound, not sure if mentioned (razster)*

What exactly is displacement a measure of? I always thought it was the measure of the volume in the combustion chamber with the piston at TDC and both valves closed, times the number of cylinders? If so, why does displacement not change when putting in high compression pistons, since there is obviously less room in the combustion chamber with less of a dish or dome on the piston top?
-Rob


----------



## carnutchuck (Mar 8, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (JUSTINCASE1021)*

this is the factory code name for the GTi when it was first conceived


----------



## carnutchuck (Mar 8, 2005)

*Re: engine sound, not sure if mentioned (nevermas)*

today's electronic engine controls can be reprogrammed. i heard someone changed the timing on a GTI 18T to audi TT specs ... could this be true?


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

*Re: engine sound, not sure if mentioned (robw_z)*


_Quote, originally posted by *robw_z* »_What exactly is displacement a measure of? I always thought it was the measure of the volume in the combustion chamber with the piston at TDC and both valves closed, times the number of cylinders? If so, why does displacement not change when putting in high compression pistons, since there is obviously less room in the combustion chamber with less of a dish or dome on the piston top?
-Rob

It is the volume at BOTTOM dead center, times the number of cylinders. Compression ratio is the ratio of the volume at BDC to the volume at TDC.
The ability of a piston to withstand higher compression is a function of its metallurgy.


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: engine sound, not sure if mentioned (carnutchuck)*


_Quote, originally posted by *carnutchuck* »_today's electronic engine controls can be reprogrammed. i heard someone changed the timing on a GTI 18T to audi TT specs ... could this be true?

if you are talking about the 1.8t, there is a hardware change between the GTI and TT. (unless you are talking about the old 180hp TT, in which case the engines are basicly identical.) The 225 TT engine has a larger turbo, a K04. GTIs have either a K03 or K03S. The K04 will flow a little more, providing more potential boost. the TT also has a larger FPR and injectors to match the upped air flow. 

but, it is very possible to reprogram the GTI to produce more power than a TT in its stock form. mine is, timing, fuel settings, boost etc can all be changed to raise power levels.


----------



## mechsoldier (Aug 14, 2004)

*Re: engine sound, not sure if mentioned (atomicalex)*


_Quote, originally posted by *robw_z* »_What exactly is displacement a measure of? I always thought it was the measure of the volume in the combustion chamber with the piston at TDC and both valves closed, times the number of cylinders? If so, why does displacement not change when putting in high compression pistons, since there is obviously less room in the combustion chamber with less of a dish or dome on the piston top?
-Rob


_Quote, originally posted by *atomicalex* »_
It is the volume at BOTTOM dead center, times the number of cylinders. Compression ratio is the ratio of the volume at BDC to the volume at TDC.
The ability of a piston to withstand higher compression is a function of its metallurgy.









Wrong but close.
Displacement, is the amount of volume with the cylinder at bottom dead center exluding cylinder deck and combustion chamber...
It's pi x radius of the piston squared x stroke x the amount of cylinders
WHICH is why pistons that are meant for stock size bore can't change the displacement, the stroke doesn't change, only the deck height by relocating the wrist pin or changine dish size.
Compression ratio is that same formula, with the volume of the cylinder from the top of the piston to the top of the head (deck height) and the combustion chamber in a ratio with JUST the cylinder deck height and combustion chamber volume.
SO it's (pi x radius of the piston squared x stroke) + combustion chamber volume + cylinder deck height / cylinder deck height + combustion chamber volume
I know that's kinda confusing

_Modified by mechsoldier at 1:31 AM 1-18-2006_


_Modified by mechsoldier at 1:32 AM 1-18-2006_


----------



## munkey (Apr 30, 2004)

*Re: engine sound, not sure if mentioned (mechsoldier)*

i've always thought displacement was the amount of air that's displaced with one cycle of the engine. well, i guess that could be the total volume of the combustion chambers.


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

*Re: engine sound, not sure if mentioned (munkey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *munkey* »_i've always thought displacement was the amount of air that's displaced with one cycle of the engine. well, i guess that could be the total volume of the combustion chambers.

Yes. What was clarified above is that the displacement is the BDC volume - TDC volume. This is, in geometric theory and baring any funny pistons that might change shape over the course of the stroke (LOL), stroke x bore x # of cylinders. Total volumes become more important with shaped pistons such as those used in Diesel engines, and only affect the total volume, not the displaced volume.


----------



## nyyankee (Dec 1, 2004)

I have a question:
If you rev the engine wile the car is in park or neutral, can it be harmful to the engine?


----------



## depireux (Feb 4, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (TurboWraith)*

Why would I want to know the RPMs in an automatic? In our Odyssey, the RPM gauge is about as big as that for speed.


----------



## mechsoldier (Aug 14, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (depireux)*


_Quote, originally posted by *depireux* »_Why would I want to know the RPMs in an automatic? 

Probably so if you shift it manually into different ranges for towing or whatever


----------



## GDJ (Oct 21, 2003)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (mechsoldier)*

It's also your only gague to see what the engine is really doing. I also find it a helpful tool for monitoring gas usage. If you can keep the revs in a certain range, you can maximize gas mileage. Not as relevant in an auto, but still. Also, it allows you to see and document any lumps or holes in the powerband which may indicate a problem in the system.


----------



## depireux (Feb 4, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (GDJ)*

What is the percentage of people who actually buy the "extra protection for your leather, undercarriage etc etc" that they try to sell you after you have agreed to buy a new car? I positively hate that part.


----------



## nevermas (Aug 12, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (depireux)*

If you press on the brake and the gas at the same time on an automatic, will it damage the transmission/engine?


----------



## someguy123 (Sep 30, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (nevermas)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nevermas* »_If you press on the brake and the gas at the same time on an automatic, will it damage the transmission/engine?

Now why would you want to go do a thing like that?


----------



## munkey (Apr 30, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (someguy123)*

lol i've heard that from a friend i no longer talk to. guy used to own an auto subaru wagon. he said that's how you launched.


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## nevermas (Aug 12, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (someguy123)*


_Quote, originally posted by *someguy123* »_
Now why would you want to go do a thing like that?

not me personally, but a friend of mine did it today, and i was just wondering if i should tell him now or tell him when his car dies


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (nevermas)*

doesnt really hurt anything, as long as you dont do it all day long. your torque converter will heat the hell out of your tranny fluid really fast. (read - VERY fast) and if you do it long enough, probably 15-45 seconds would do it(depending on the car), you could cause some serious damage. but yea, its a good way to get the revs up in an auto to launch well.


----------



## mechsoldier (Aug 14, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (TurboWraith)*

A lot of people do it so they can do burnouts, it's called power braking, and in that situation (when they're spinning the tires) it doesn't really do much because the whole driveline is working. I does however cause hell on your front brakes (oh yeah I forgot this is on a rwd setup)


----------



## StupidGTI (Jul 8, 2003)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (mechsoldier)*

Do people really hate hawc or are they just playing along with the ban hawc joke? Do some of you really want to punch him in the face?


----------



## GiddyGTI (Sep 28, 2005)

The ticking under the car? the cat? after the car is warmed up. why does it tick?


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## Huckvw (Aug 29, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (StupidGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *StupidGTI* »_Do people really hate hawc or are they just playing along with the ban hawc joke? Do some of you really want to punch him in the face?

yea, what is going on with that hawc thing, i feel like it's the airplane joke all over again...

(over my head)


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (GiddyGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GiddyGTI* »_The ticking under the car? the cat? after the car is warmed up. why does it tick?

are you talking about after you shut the car off when it is warm? 
if so, its the steel contracting as it cools down. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## MrLoutish (Oct 24, 2003)

*Re: (TurboWraith)*

My question is about gated shifters.
Does the gate act as a guide for the travel of the shifter or is it just a cover machined to tight tolerances around the natural travel of the shifter?
(I hope that makes sense)



_Modified by MrLoutish at 3:45 PM 1-20-2006_


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (MrLoutish)*

i have no idea, never driven a car with a gated shifter plate. i would guess the later - but im sure someone around here has driven an F-car


----------



## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

*Re: (TurboWraith)*

It's my understanding that (on the older Ferraris, at least) the shift gates were in place to guide the position of the selector forks, as opposed to just looking nice. Not sure about the newer ones, though.


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (IJM)*

intresting....i wonder how long it would take to wear enough material down to miss a gear.








one day i will get my time in a ferrari/lambo or something really cool. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Dubai Vol (Jan 8, 2002)

*Re: (TurboWraith)*

Once you start driving it, you never know the gate is there. To look at it, it seems like you'd have to be careful about getting the lever in the right gate and not hitting it in the wrong place, but in use, it works just the same as a regular shift lever, no issues at all.


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (Dubai Vol)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Dubai Vol* »_Once you start driving it, you never know the gate is there. To look at it, it seems like you'd have to be careful about getting the lever in the right gate and not hitting it in the wrong place, but in use, it works just the same as a regular shift lever, no issues at all.

cool. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif someday ill get a chance to drive one.


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## B20VTEC (Apr 27, 2005)

*Re: engine sound, not sure if mentioned (robw_z)*


_Quote, originally posted by *robw_z* »_What exactly is displacement a measure of? I always thought it was the measure of the volume in the combustion chamber with the piston at TDC and both valves closed, times the number of cylinders? If so, why does displacement not change when putting in high compression pistons, since there is obviously less room in the combustion chamber with less of a dish or dome on the piston top?
-Rob


3.14/4 * bore squared * stroke * number of cylinders

Engine displacement is defined as the total volume of air/fuel that an engine can draw in during one complete engine cycle; this is the volume as the piston moves from TDC to BDC.


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## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

*Re: (TurboWraith)*

Shifter gate = slop reducer
Not all trans are snick-snick and fork-tidy. Some are really slushy and finding gears is more of a prayer. Gates insure that you will actually select a gear. Not necessarily the right one, but at least you will select a gear.


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## Thrice (Jan 6, 2004)

What does ITB stand for? From the looks of pictures I would think Individual Throttle Bodies, but I'm just guessing.


----------



## stock60 (Jan 16, 2002)

*Re: (T-Red Wolfs1.8T)*

good guess, correct too


----------



## sniper101 (Dec 30, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (okanTDI)*

I think this thread is great, it is teaching me a great deal of things I never knew, let alone questioned...


----------



## alman (Sep 17, 2001)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (sniper101)*

Another transmission question:
On the paddle based shifting transmissions (SMG, DSG, auto stick, etc) is there any logic in the software to prevent a dumb person shifting from 5th to 2nd(assuming highway speed) or a really bad miss shift?


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## peterjmag (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (alman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *alman* »_Another transmission question:
On the paddle based shifting transmissions (SMG, DSG, auto stick, etc) is there any logic in the software to prevent a dumb person shifting from 5th to 2nd(assuming highway speed) or a really bad miss shift?

From what I've seen and read, the computer won't let you shift down if the resulting RPM would be above the rev limiter (or in most cases, redline). I don't think there are any automatic or sequential gearboxes out there that would let you completely grenade the engine, but some have higher tolerances than others (e.g. a Ferrari gearbox might let you shift down to 2nd and 500 RPM above redline when a basic Tiptronic box definitely wouldn't).
My question: Before electronically-controlled automatic transmissions came along, how exactly did the gear selector tell the transmission to stay in a low gear when you put the selector in "L"? I understand that with basically any auto tranny after 1990, moving the gear selector just tells the computer what to tell the transmission to do, but how did it work before?


----------



## GDJ (Oct 21, 2003)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (alman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *alman* »_Another transmission question:
On the paddle based shifting transmissions (SMG, DSG, auto stick, etc) is there any logic in the software to prevent a dumb person shifting from 5th to 2nd(assuming highway speed) or a really bad miss shift?

I can speak for the Tiptronic transmission. In my dad's Phaeton 6-speed tip (AWESOME trans) in tiptronic mode. When you are in second at high revs and you try to shift back into first, the car basically ignores you. Took some guts to test it though, seeing as it's a Phaeton!


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## THE KILLER RABBIT (Jun 2, 2003)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (GDJ)*

even on my steptronic tranny i can trow it into first at highway speed and it will only go into 3rd or if its below 60ish second. and then it will stay there and wont go into second as i come to a stop. but if a were downshift normally i can go into first if i wanted to at like 25-30


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (peterjmag)*


_Quote, originally posted by *peterjmag* »_My question: Before electronically-controlled automatic transmissions came along, how exactly did the gear selector tell the transmission to stay in a low gear when you put the selector in "L"? I understand that with basically any auto tranny after 1990, moving the gear selector just tells the computer what to tell the transmission to do, but how did it work before?

usually controlled by a solenoid, that activates when you put the level in L or whatever. also can be done by a mechanical link, but more often than not a solenoid was used.


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## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

Can someone tell me what these are and why they are put into the roadways ONLY in the right most lane?








Another thing I am curious about is the car lounges never (should it be nevAr?) ending lust over the "1.8t nevAr loooses" monologue. Tried searching and came up with nothing. How did this come about?


_Modified by abawp at 8:07 AM 1-27-2006_


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (abawp)*

i have no idea about the missing road chunks.









but the 1.8t thing started when a lot of mk4 guys started talking in tcl about how their gti/golf/jetta was sooo fast after it was chipped. and how they could outrun sti's, evo's, cobras, vettes







, you get the idea. so everyone started making fun of them, and it stuck. the spelling of nevar was started around the same time because most of these owners were under the age of 18, and thought typing like that was cool. 
and unfortunatly, for the rest of us mature acting car enthusiasts who happen to own one of these said vehicles with the "legendary" engine, lots of people lump us into this 'elite' group of street racers.


----------



## K-Style_28 (Aug 28, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (jebglx)*

ridiculous question......
what's the thing with the new Mercedes-Benz S65, it's nickname is ''S3'', I just don't get it, can someone explain it to me??? Thanks


_Modified by K-Style_28 at 7:05 PM 1-29-2006_


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## THE KILLER RABBIT (Jun 2, 2003)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (K-Style_28)*


_Quote, originally posted by *K-Style_28* »_ridiculous question......
what's the thing with the new Mercedes-Benz S65, it's nickname is ''S3'', I just don't get it, can someone explain it to me??? Thanks

_Modified by K-Style_28 at 7:05 PM 1-29-2006_

hmm this is new to me
bueller?


----------



## lowredcabrio (Oct 22, 2004)

I was wondering. I read 14 pages and to my dismay, still havnt found an answer to my question. one i have already forgotten and the other is as follows. 
In a RHD car, where is first gear? do you once again pull the lever in towards your body or is it the same pattern we have. Also, Where is the clutch?


----------



## G-rocco (Sep 11, 2004)

*Re: (lowredcabrio)*


_Quote, originally posted by *lowredcabrio* »_I was wondering. I read 14 pages and to my dismay, still havnt found an answer to my question. one i have already forgotten and the other is as follows. 
In a RHD car, where is first gear? do you once again pull the lever in towards your body or is it the same pattern we have. Also, Where is the clutch?









The shift pattern is the same - first to the left and up. Switching would require completely re-working the shift linkage..


----------



## lowredcabrio (Oct 22, 2004)

wow! thats crazy! i thought it woudl be the same, in towards you. crazy. you do learn somethings on the lounge i guess!







thnks


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## shftat6 (Oct 9, 2000)

*Re: (lowredcabrio)*


_Quote, originally posted by *lowredcabrio* »_I was wondering. I read 14 pages and to my dismay, still havnt found an answer to my question. one i have already forgotten and the other is as follows. 
In a RHD car, where is first gear? do you once again pull the lever in towards your body or is it the same pattern we have. Also, Where is the clutch?









I used to wonder about the gas, brake, clutch pedal arrangement myself. They are still left to right, just on the other side of the car.


----------



## [email protected] (Dec 2, 2004)

*Re: (shftat6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *shftat6* »_
I used to wonder about the gas, brake, clutch pedal arrangement myself. They are still left to right, just on the other side of the car.









Like stated above (multiple times)- everything is the same on a RHD car. The pedal arrangement is the same in your car and first gear is in the same location. Just the dash and seats are reversed. Takes a little getting used to but being left handed it came pretty easily to me. Only RHD car I've ever driven though was a 1998 Mazda RX-7. Biggest problem I had was shifting under hard accelleration and trying to counter 'torque steer with my right arm instead of my left. But then again the car was pushing close to 500whp.


----------



## gtivr4 (Sep 22, 2000)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Like stated above (multiple times)- everything is the same on a RHD car. The pedal arrangement is the same in your car and first gear is in the same location. Just the dash and seats are reversed. Takes a little getting used to but being left handed it came pretty easily to me. Only RHD car I've ever driven though was a 1998 Mazda RX-7. Biggest problem I had was shifting under hard accelleration and trying to counter 'torque steer with my right arm instead of my left. But then again the car was pushing close to 500whp.

Actually a lot of RHD cars have the wipers and lights on the opposite side. In a normal LHD car, the wiper is on the right (towards the middle of the car) and in most Japanese cars its on the left (also towards the middle). I know that VWs don't do this, not sure about other European cars in RHD configuration.
And how were you countering torque steer in a RWD car with a different hand? None of that adds up in my book. Torque steer is a phoenomenon of FWD cars.


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## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

Perhaps he was referring to throttle induced oversteer, which, in context, could be thought of as torque steer since stabbing throttle = slide
But I see what your saying. Stabbing the throttle on a FWD car (when tuned incorrectly) can induce turn on the steering wheel. That I believe is the definition of torque steer as its commonly referred to as.


----------



## VRsexxy (Apr 1, 2004)

*Re: (CheddaJetta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CheddaJetta* »_If 2 cars are traveling on I-90 towards each other and 1 car is traveling at 65mph and the other at 75 mph, when will they pass each other supposing that they started 300 miles apart?
















it depends...what if one of them stops to see his ho?
ahhh, thats what we call a variable.









Family Guy anyone???


----------



## dastig (Nov 12, 2004)

*Re: (VRsexxy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VRsexxy* »_it depends...what if one of them stops to see his ho?
ahhh, thats what we call a variable.









Family Guy anyone???

Doing some quick calculations in my head, somewhere around 2.1 hrs.


----------



## theKid (Nov 26, 2003)

do (i.t.b.'s) individual throttle bodies have air cleaners of any kind?


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (theKid)*

they have air boxes that fit around the trumpets and there is a filter element in there. ala the M3 inline six.
when you see exposed ones, they are for show, or for track use only. or, the owner doesnt car about dirt in the engine.


----------



## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

*Re: (TurboWraith)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TurboWraith* »_they have air boxes that fit around the trumpets and there is a filter element in there. ala the M3 inline six.
when you see exposed ones, they are for show, or for track use only. or, the owner doesnt car about dirt in the engine.

For example, here's two examples of ITBs without air filters that are used primarily for racing purposes.
















Here's a similar setup with an air cleaner (although I think this may only have 3 carburetors).










_Modified by IJM at 11:30 PM 1-31-2006_


----------



## depireux (Feb 4, 2002)

*A car like a Diesel locomotive?*

Why not have a system wherein the gas engine in a car is running at its optimal RPMs, and have it feed an electric motor which has a flat torque output and almost 100% efficiency. Would that not give us a car with much better gas mileage? When needed you can adjust the RPMs to give more power output, but otherwise the engine would be at a constant RPM.


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: A car like a Diesel locomotive? (depireux)*

heavy construction equipment (mostly mining machines) have used that tech for a long time. i would guess that it hasnt moved to autos because of noise. just a guess though


----------



## venom600 (Sep 9, 2002)

*Re: A car like a Diesel locomotive? (TurboWraith)*

Here's mine. In Pasadena on Orange Grove (just down the street from the Rose Organization) there is a sign that says "Signal Progression 35". What does that mean, exactly?


----------



## BMGFifty (Sep 2, 2004)

*Re: A car like a Diesel locomotive? (venom600)*


_Quote, originally posted by *venom600* »_Here's mine. In Pasadena on Orange Grove (just down the street from the Rose Organization) there is a sign that says "Signal Progression 35". What does that mean, exactly?

I think that it could mean that the lights are timed for 35mph, but I could be mistaken.


----------



## typ3 (Feb 4, 2004)

*Re: (IJM)*


_Quote, originally posted by *IJM* »_
For example, here's two examples of ITBs without air filters that are used primarily for racing purposes.


















Sorry man those ain't ITBs


----------



## typ3 (Feb 4, 2004)

*Re: (abawp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *abawp* »_Can someone tell me what these are and why they are put into the roadways ONLY in the right most lane?










IIRC, those are to wake up drivers and those suffering from highway hypnosis. The reason they are in the rightmost lane is because that is where truck drivers are, and where those who are tired and driving slow normally end up.
Brandon


----------



## rightcoastvw (Jan 14, 2006)

*Re: (typ3)*

can someone give me a quick path of the air (and maybe fuel) through an intercooled turbo engine (i.e. the 1.8t)?
like, it enters the intake, compressed by the turbo, then to the IC?, etc. TIA


----------



## GDJ (Oct 21, 2003)

*Re: (rightcoastvw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rightcoastvw* »_can someone give me a quick path of the air (and maybe fuel) through an intercooled turbo engine (i.e. the 1.8t)?
like, it enters the intake, compressed by the turbo, then to the IC?, etc. TIA

Air comes in through the intake connected to the turbo. If the turbo is making boost, the air is compressed. If it's not making boost, the air just passes through. From the turbo, the air enters the intercooler where it's cooled. Compressing the air raises the temperature and hotter air takes up more space. Therefore, if you can cool the air, you can get more air in the engine (more pressure). Anyways, the intercooler connects to the intake manifold through the throttle body and air sensor. The sensor tells the computer how much fuel is needed for the ammount of air coming in. In a traditional injection setup, fuel and air is mixed in the head and manifold before entering the combustion chamber. On a direct injection engine, I believe the gas is injected directly into the cylinder where it meets with the air and the spark. Anyways, after the combustion cycle, the exhaust gas is pushed out of the cylinder, out the exhaust manifold, and into the exhaust side of the turbo. When enough gas hits the exhaust turbine, it spins and starts creating boost. Then the exhaust gas exits the turbo and usually passes by an O2 sensor which tells the computer how it did with the air/fuel mixture and compensates for it in the next cycle. It's a pretty amazing system.


----------



## rightcoastvw (Jan 14, 2006)

*Re: (GDJ)*

thanks GDJ, i appreciate it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Italy571 (Jul 13, 2005)

*Re: (typ3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *typ3* »_








Sorry man those ain't ITBs









I've always wondered what, exactly, is the purpose of these cylinders? I assume they function as a path for air to get into the engine, but the only other thing I know besides that is that they look cool.


----------



## heh2k (Dec 18, 2003)

they're called velocity stacks.


----------



## Dubai Vol (Jan 8, 2002)

*Re: (Italy571)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Italy571* »_
I've always wondered what, exactly, is the purpose of these cylinders? I assume they function as a path for air to get into the engine, but the only other thing I know besides that is that they look cool.

The total length of the intake tract affects the power characteristics of the engine. In short form, there are pressure pulses travelling up and down the pasage between the top of those stacks and the combustion chamber. If you make the length just right, the pressure pulse gets to the valve just as it opens and pushes more air into the cylinder, making more power. Of course the "right" length is different for different engine speeds, so you tune the length for where you want the power. Long runners for low rpm, short runners for high rpm.
And that's the simplified explanation!


----------



## TabulaVicious (Sep 15, 2004)

*Re: A car like a Diesel locomotive? (BMGFifty)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BMGFifty* »_
I think that it could mean that the lights are timed for 35mph, but I could be mistaken.

No, it means they're timed for 70, which means I can do 90 in order to average 70mph.


----------



## Italy571 (Jul 13, 2005)

*Re: (Dubai Vol)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Dubai Vol* »_The total length of the intake tract affects the power characteristics of the engine. In short form, there are pressure pulses travelling up and down the pasage between the top of those stacks and the combustion chamber. If you make the length just right, the pressure pulse gets to the valve just as it opens and pushes more air into the cylinder, making more power. Of course the "right" length is different for different engine speeds, so you tune the length for where you want the power. Long runners for low rpm, short runners for high rpm.
And that's the simplified explanation!









Thanks. That makes sense.


----------



## [email protected] (Dec 2, 2004)

*Re: (gtivr4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtivr4* »_And how were you countering torque steer in a RWD car with a different hand? None of that adds up in my book. Torque steer is a phoenomenon of FWD cars.

Which was why I put torque steer in quotes. Hard throttle while exiting a turn or any general wheel movement can cause oversteer in high powered cars- much like the sensation of throttle steering.


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Torque steer is a good question! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I've always attributed it to the unequal lengths of the halfshafts in most *transverse* FWD cars. The shafts exhibit slightly different amounts of twist at the onset of high load to the power is translated unevenly to the road. 
I find my *longitudinal* FWD car is more affected by engine torque lifting and unloading the suspension on one side under onset of high loads. This is similar to what happens in longitudinal RWD cars, but I don't know what the name for that phenomenon is.
Who has more info?


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (atomicalex)*

^^^^

frame twist? lol, i dont konw what the real term is, but ive experienced it. it is a much more intresting sensation than torque steer.

and FYI, some manufactures now are getting very good at minimizing torque steer. the new mini cooper has equal lenth drive shafts, nearly eliminating it. the new chevy impala with the v8 has different lenth shafts, but the longer one is thicker and stronger so it twists the same as the shorter shaft. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

*Re: (TurboWraith)*

I actually originally had 'frame twist' in there, but most people drive fancy modern unitbody cars now that don't torque up like the old ones. LOL, in the 70s, that frame twist could be measured in inches on a big ol' Dodge!
I find the 'frame twist' sensation way more disorienting than a little torque steer. The torque steer in my Rabbit is a minor blip compared to punching the Passat in 3rd. The whole damn corner of the car lifts up.


----------



## Huckvw (Aug 29, 2004)

*Re: (atomicalex)*

(why) Is it bad to rev your engine?
-and-
Not trying to be mean, I’m genuinely curious, but what does Honda do that makes all there motors have such low torque (compared to their HP)?
It seems like every other car company has the numbers relativly close, yet hondas always seem to be like 195/137, or something like that. Maybe i'm mistaken, if so--correct me.


----------



## nevermas (Aug 12, 2005)

*Re: (Huckvw)*

when did a sun roof become a moon roof?


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

*Re: (nevermas)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nevermas* »_when did a sun roof become a moon roof?

When Honda got involved.







Honestly, I don't remember the exact difference, but there is one. It may be that a sunroof is sheetmetal and a moonroof is glass, or that a sunroof only lifts and a moonroof fully retracts, I with I could remember!


----------



## Demo24 (Jan 22, 2006)

I was thinking that moonroofs are those that are fixed in position. For example Land rovers have glass over the rear of the SUV(or the old discoverys did). However its built into the roof and does not lift out like a sunroof would.
Not sure if thats correct.


----------



## John Q. Public (Feb 5, 2006)

*Re: (Demo24)*

i asked the german kid at my school what DTM stood for and she said something like Deustch tourenwagen masters
german kid asked me what GTI stood for and it hit me, i don't know i always assumed it was just 3 letters that sounded really good together, is it?


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

*Re: (John Q. Public)*

GTi - Gran Tourismo Iniezione - grand touring, with fuel injection
You are correct on DTM. It's like what NASCAR used to be before it went to **** (20 years ago)


_Modified by atomicalex at 7:10 PM 3-4-2006_


----------



## Parklife (Feb 23, 1999)

*Re: (nevermas)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nevermas* »_when did a sun roof become a moon roof?

A sunroof is technically supposed to be a steel panel that slides/tilts/cranks open.
A moonroof is a piece of glass that does the same.
In practice, the terms are used interchangably.


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## Pelko (Nov 17, 2005)

*Re: (John Q. Public)*


_Quote, originally posted by *John Q. Public* »_
german kid asked me what GTI stood for 

*G*as, *T*ires, *I*nsurance


----------



## Pelko (Nov 17, 2005)

*Re: (Pelko)*

Subaru offers a 2.0 in the impreza, legacy and forester.
*WHY don't they sell it in the U.S.??*


----------



## nevermas (Aug 12, 2005)

*Re: (Pelko)*

the wrx impreza was sold with the 2.0 turbocharged engine until 2006, before the 2.5 liter engine was issued. the new engine is better than the older one, offering a new form of variable valve timing that offers more accessible power and increased torque. so why do you want the old one?


----------



## Pelko (Nov 17, 2005)

*Re: (nevermas)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nevermas* »_the wrx impreza was sold with the 2.0 turbocharged engine until 2006, before the 2.5 liter engine was issued. the new engine is better than the older one, offering a new form of variable valve timing that offers more accessible power and increased torque. so why do you want the old one? 

is not an old engine, Subaru still offers the 2.0 NA engine here in Peru, they offer it in the impreza, legacy and forester. why won't tehy offer it in the states? If they offered it I could convince my stepdad of buying a subaru, he doesn't want the 2.5


----------



## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

Is it true that almost 50% of the driving public have above average driving skills?


----------



## nevermas (Aug 12, 2005)

*Re: (Pelko)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Pelko* »_is not an old engine, Subaru still offers the 2.0 NA engine here in Peru, they offer it in the impreza, legacy and forester. why won't tehy offer it in the states? If they offered it I could convince my stepdad of buying a subaru, he doesn't want the 2.5

for subaru to offer a naturally aspirated car in their lineup as a cheaper/more economy car is too risky, essentially it would be in comparison with the mitsubishi lancer(not evolution), toyota corolla(maybe scion tc), and similar range. to make it short, it'll never sell


----------



## Pelko (Nov 17, 2005)

*Re: (nevermas)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nevermas* »_
for subaru to offer a naturally aspirated car in their lineup as a cheaper/more economy car is too risky, essentially it would be in comparison with the mitsubishi lancer(not evolution), toyota corolla(maybe scion tc), and similar range. to make it short, it'll never sell








..


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## SchnellFowVay (May 20, 2001)

*Re: (Huckvw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Huckvw* »_(why) Not trying to be mean, I’m genuinely curious, but what does Honda do that makes all there motors have such low torque (compared to their HP)?
It seems like every other car company has the numbers relativly close, yet hondas always seem to be like 195/137, or something like that. Maybe i'm mistaken, if so--correct me.

Well, don't forget. The only real measurement of actual power is Torque. Torque literally translates into an engine's ability to twist. 
Horsepower, on the other hand, is a CALCULATION that takes into account the engine's power (torque) along with rpms. Thus, if peak torque occurs at a high rpm (see: all honda engines), then the horsepower numbers come out higher. Also, engines that have HUGE torque but at low rpms (see: diesel engines) have low horsepower compared to torque.
Here is the horsepower equation:
* HP= (Torque X rpm)/5250 *
Therefore, one way to quickly check the base validity of a dyno is to see if the horsepower and torque curves intersect at 5250 rpms. In 98% of dynos, they do! If htey don't, you know the thing was not calibrated.
So again we re-visit why Honda engines have such high hp/low tq.
Lets look at the S2000 which peaks at about 235 crank hp at about 8,000 rpms. Let's plug this into our equation:
235 = (Tq X 8000)/5250 
*Tq= 154.21*
Which means that the Honda makes about 154lb ft of torque at 8,000 rpms. DOes this make sense? 
Ultimately, horsepower is NOT a measurement of anything, it is a relative value that combines the measurements of power and rpms and converts them into a number that represents the engine's overall ability to power the car.
The ultimate answer to your question is that Honda engines have high horsepower and low torque because they suck.








Just kidding, I love a nice high-revving engine. And that's the answer. Although the engines do not twist very hard, they do their twisting well into the high rpms, which causes the car to have such high horsepower ratings.



_Modified by VarLordahl at 10:38 AM 3-5-2006_


----------



## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

*Re: (typ3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *typ3* »_IIRC, those are to wake up drivers and those suffering from highway hypnosis. The reason they are in the rightmost lane is because that is where truck drivers are, and where those who are tired and driving slow normally end up.
Brandon

I think the strips your talking about are on the shoulder, not in the driving lanes. Having driven over these many times, they don't even rumble the car, so its difficult to understand the functionality behind putting these grooves in the pavement.
A couple more questions for everyone:
How do cowl induction hoods work??
I don't have a picture, but I see these things a lot of times on GM vehicles, mainly saturns, and only on the front wheels. They are these disc things that are outside the wheels, and look like they bolt to the wheel using the lug bolt/nut locations. Anyone have a clue what I am talking about, and/or know what it is?


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## beemerfan (Mar 9, 2006)

*Re: (abawp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *abawp* »_
I think the strips your talking about are on the shoulder, not in the driving lanes. Having driven over these many times, they don't even rumble the car, so its difficult to understand the functionality behind putting these grooves in the pavement.
A couple more questions for everyone:
How do cowl induction hoods work??
I don't have a picture, but I see these things a lot of times on GM vehicles, mainly saturns, and only on the front wheels. They are these disc things that are outside the wheels, and look like they bolt to the wheel using the lug bolt/nut locations. Anyone have a clue what I am talking about, and/or know what it is?
Those disc things are adapters for chain kits.


----------



## beemerfan (Mar 9, 2006)

*Re: (beemerfan)*

Do the stickers on my honda add HP


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

*Re: (abawp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *abawp* »_How do cowl induction hoods work?

The concept of cowl induction comes from airplane motors (what doesn't?







), which used the shape of the cowl to direct air into the intakes and around the cooling fins on the heads of their engines. On a radial engine, the cowl is circular. 
The cowl has a large cross-sectional area at the front, and narrows toward the rear. This creates a higher flow rate, and if things were perfect, a higher pressure zone. Higher pressure is key - it's the same thing that forced induction is creating.
Any way to improve pressure in the intake without plumbing is a bonus, and will improve performance on an NA motor. Cowl induction was designed to do this. It works about 5% of the time, as most induction cowls are not flowbenched for performance, but sculpted for looks. An improperly designed cowl hood can impeed air flow.


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## sciroccohal (May 4, 2005)

*Re: (thesteve)*


_Quote, originally posted by *thesteve* »_I could use a history lesson......
Why do we have steering wheels on the left hand side/Europe, etc. has it on the right......(who decided to differ and for what reason)........









good Q bro....
This is exactly why the ENGLISH have the steering wheels on the ‘wrong side’ or their cars….ships are steered from the right side (because a large proportion of the planet are right handed) hence the “steerboard” Is on the right…STARBOARD….this was originally designed by the Vikings…at about 800 BC….so the English, Japanese and Australians all drive on the opposite side of the road due to the Vikings! And of course ships and boats are still steered that way. (even though head-on ships pass on the LEFT????).


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## sciroccohal (May 4, 2005)

*Re: (Dubai Vol)*

General Rule of thumb is; 18:1 Length over Diameter (of the Velocity stacks) Stills and smooths the air into the carbs...reducing flutter and pressure pulses.


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## sciroccohal (May 4, 2005)

*Re: (beemerfan)*

Yes
_Quote, originally posted by *beemerfan* »_Do the stickers on my honda add HP

Stickers=HP whereas HP is represented as HIGHWAY PATROL.


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## DigitalTexan2u (Aug 15, 2001)

*Re: (ArmenB)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ArmenB* »_Seriously, *where did the word 'car' come from?* I get 'Auto' from "Automotive", which seems pretty obvious, but where did we get 'car'?

My guess...the car is a "horseless carriage". CARriage.


----------



## pmax (Sep 10, 2004)

*Re: (DigitalTexan2u)*

ok what the hell does TIA mean?


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## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

Thanks In Advance I believe..


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## varanus (Sep 8, 2005)

What does the term "bangle butt" refer to? What cars is it usually usually used in reference to? BMW 745, etc.? pics?


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## sciroccohal (May 4, 2005)

*Re: (varanus)*


_Quote, originally posted by *varanus* »_What does the term "bangle butt" refer to? What cars is it usually usually used in reference to? BMW 745, etc.? pics?


Cris Bangle...the (apparently blind) Head of BMW design. Who came up with the new "flame surfacing" styling of current BMWs....
The "bangle butt" refers to the enormous coffee table shelf on the trunk lids of all the sedan...(which look remarkably like a 10 year old Stratus).....universally hated design.


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## depireux (Feb 4, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (jebglx)*

Why are most cars designed so I can't see my speed/tachymeter? Is it time to buy an Echo?
This is what I see. 








Can I sue the manufacturer if I get a speeding ticket?


----------



## pmax (Sep 10, 2004)

*Re: (abawp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *abawp* »_Thanks In Advance I believe..

thanks!!


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## kptaylor (Apr 7, 2001)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (depireux)*


_Quote, originally posted by *depireux* »_Why are most cars designed so I can't see my speed/tachymeter? Is it time to buy an Echo?
This is what I see. 








Can I sue the manufacturer if I get a speeding ticket?

That's why they invented tilt (and telescoping) steering wheels.


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## depireux (Feb 4, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (kptaylor)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kptaylor* »_That's why they invented tilt (and telescoping) steering wheels.









Don't like to drive with the steering wheel way up. How about a U shaped steering wheel? Or maybe just an instrument cluster in the center of the car?


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## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

Like the Saturn Ion? No thank you. Manufacturers need to put the instrument cluster farther into the dash. Thats the way it sits in my mkIII Golf, and I have absolutely no problems getting into the proper driving position in it.


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## depireux (Feb 4, 2002)

*Re: (abawp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *abawp* »_LThats the way it sits in my mkIII Golf, and I have absolutely no problems getting into the proper driving position in it.

Oh, I agree with that. In my Passat, I see the cluster just fine in my normal position. It's in the Odyssey and the Altima that I can't see the speed gauge. 
Maybe I should give her Odyssey back to my wife and take my Passat back. She got 3 speeding tickets (after never getting any) within 4 months of getting the Odyssey, so she coerced me into letting her use the Passat...


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## v555ryan (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (depireux)*

Without upgrading tires, can you dramatically reduce your braking distance by upgrading the brakes? I'm not talking about any track event with lots of hard braking where heat build up factors in, but during everyday driving when just occasionally you may need to slam them to avoid hitting something. 
I would think the manufacturers would equip the best brakes for your car with stock weight/tires, since the best way to survive a crash would be to avoid it completely.


----------



## WhitePoloCT (Jul 28, 2005)

*Re: (v555ryan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *v555ryan* »_ Without upgrading tires, can you dramatically reduce your braking distance by upgrading the brakes? I'm not talking about any track event with lots of hard braking where heat build up factors in, but during everyday driving when just occasionally you may need to slam them to avoid hitting something. 
I would think the manufacturers would equip the best brakes for your car with stock weight/tires, since the best way to survive a crash would be to avoid it completely.

The car manufacturers do not fit the best... they fit the cheapest that will get the job done properly enough. Upgrading your pads alone will give an improvement over the stock pads, although maybe not in distance, but definitely when it comes to fade. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## depireux (Feb 4, 2002)

*Re: (abawp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *abawp* »_Like the Saturn Ion? No thank you. 

Interestingly, the Saturn website has a lot of pictures of the Ion, but only one of the dash and it's one of the odometer and nothing else. Even Edmunds doesn't show pictures of the dash of the Ion. What gives?


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## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

Thats because the dash is hideous








I hear this term thrown around a lot in when it comes to rally cars. What is 'anti-lag'? Is it just nitrous used to spool the turbo?


----------



## drew2002 (Jan 16, 2003)

Why do almost all new cars nowadays have alloy rims? 20 years ago (like when a Coke was 5 cents or something) very few cars had alloys. Most just had hubcaps on steel wheels. I suspect alloys have come down in price a lot. But if this is true, then why? Also, are alloys usually much lighter than steel wheels, or is it just a style preference?
-Andrew


----------



## Footprints (Feb 22, 2005)

*Re: (WhitePoloCT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WhitePoloCT* »_The car manufacturers do not fit the best... they fit the cheapest that will get the job done properly enough. Upgrading your pads alone will give an improvement over the stock pads, although maybe not in distance, but definitely when it comes to fade. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

To more properly answer his question, the answer is NO. The most important thing to reduce your stopping distance ONCE (not over and over again) is to upgrade your tires. This is according to Stop Tech, at least.


----------



## 08StreetBob (May 19, 2004)

*Re: (abawp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *abawp* »_
I hear this term thrown around a lot in when it comes to rally cars. What is 'anti-lag'? Is it just nitrous used to spool the turbo?

Not nitrous, just fuel. Fuel is injected and the explosion help keep the turbo spinning. Thats why you hear all that popping and what not when they shift.


----------



## nevermas (Aug 12, 2005)

*Re: (drew2002)*


_Quote, originally posted by *drew2002* »_Why do almost all new cars nowadays have alloy rims? 20 years ago (like when a Coke was 5 cents or something) very few cars had alloys. Most just had hubcaps on steel wheels. I suspect alloys have come down in price a lot. But if this is true, then why? Also, are alloys usually much lighter than steel wheels, or is it just a style preference?
-Andrew

lol coke was five cents back in the 1920s, and i don't think they had too many alloy rims back then, but hey, they did ride high in the big wheels. alloys are lighter than steel wheels, almost 1/3 lighter than a steel wheel. now what you want, if you're willing to spend the money, is forged aluminum. well, correct me if i'm wrong, but these are the most expensive yet durable(relatively) rims that you can buy. i've heard of carbon fiber wheels, but they're not very durable. 
i remember back in the day, not too long actually, when people rode around in 14inch and 15inch rims and those were the hottest cars on the road


----------



## Demo24 (Jan 22, 2006)

*Re: (drew2002)*


_Quote, originally posted by *drew2002* »_Why do almost all new cars nowadays have alloy rims? 20 years ago (like when a Coke was 5 cents or something) very few cars had alloys. Most just had hubcaps on steel wheels. I suspect alloys have come down in price a lot. But if this is true, then why? Also, are alloys usually much lighter than steel wheels, or is it just a style preference?
-Andrew

a)they look better
b)their lighter
c)their stronger(steelies have a tedency to bend after awhile)


----------



## Demo24 (Jan 22, 2006)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (depireux)*


_Quote, originally posted by *depireux* »_Why are most cars designed so I can't see my speed/tachymeter? Is it time to buy an Echo?
Can I sue the manufacturer if I get a speeding ticket?

maybe your sitting to close, to high, or dont have the wheel adjusted correctly


----------



## Harrison. (May 27, 2003)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (jebglx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dreidreisieben* »_When my car is turned off and I sit in it shifting my gearbox I feel no difference in the way the gears engage between depressing the clutch and not depressing it. Why is that?


Because nothing is spinning.


_Quote, originally posted by *StrkOutTheSide45* »_
Can someone explain gear ratios. How do all the numbers relate and what do they mean???

Gear ratios are a ratio of how many revolutions one part takes in relation to how many revolutions the other makes
When you hear someone say they have a 2.73 rear end, they are saying that for every 2.73 turns of the driveshat, the wheel will make 1 revolution, so its 2.73:1. The higher the gear number the more torque ir produces, but lower top end and worse gas mileage. a 4.13 gear will be good for the track, as it will give more torque but the top end wil lbe short, and gas mileage will suffer. Same reason transmissions have gears, if you look at a manual transmission that has 5 speeds, the speed gears will start with the largest gear and go to the smallest. The largest speed gear is 1st gear, and meshes with the smallest cluster gear. First gaer may have a ratio of 6:1 (6 revs on the engine to 1 turn of the driveshaft) and 5th may be 1:1 (one rev on the engine is 1 turn of the driveshaft). 

_Quote, originally posted by *TurboWraith* »_ok, ive got a question now. 
what exactly is a 'knife edged' crankshaft? ive hear lots of people talk about them in racing applications, and how wonderful they are to use etc. but ive never seen a picture of one, nor drove/ridden in a car with one to my knoledge.

I may be wrong, but I have been taught that that article was wrong about knife edged cranks. What I have always been told was that this is not so much to do with the weight, as much as the capability of the knife edge to cut through the oil. It prevents webbing, at higher RPM's the oil likes to chain and aill eventually cause hp loss. Knife edging a crank can help free up much horsepower at higher rpm's. 

A lot of people have said that automatics shift because of speed sensors. This may be true with newer more electronic cars, but with older cars it is controlled by a vaccum modulator. 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
-I can't believe I sat and read all of this thread


----------



## WOT (Oct 19, 2003)

*Re: (abawp)*

what are the benefits of an external wastegate on a turbo setup?
what boost levels should you go to an external wastegate?
can you run an internally wastegated turbo as external with the gate somehow held shut?


----------



## jebglx (Jul 13, 2000)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (IntrstlarOvrdrve)*


_Quote, originally posted by *IntrstlarOvrdrve* »_
-I can't believe I sat and read all of this thread

















i can't believe this thread is still around








how many forward/reverse gears does a tractor trailer have?
and do they come in automatics?
bill


----------



## the_marcus (Jun 19, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (jebglx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jebglx* »_how many forward/reverse gears does a tractor trailer have?
bill

Something like 18 speed I think. The way I was told it works is that for every gear there are 3 others. So 3 x 6 = 18.
1 2 3 7 8 9
\ | / \ | /
| |
|-------- And so on.
|
/ | \
4 5 6
Not sure it makes sense but whatever. As you can all see I suck at ASCII art.


----------



## the_marcus (Jun 19, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (the_marcus)*

I'm afraid to ask this but is it possible to do anything to a 1st gen CR-V (2000 MY to be specific) engine to gain power? Because honestly they are slow.


----------



## drbobshowmaster (Jun 7, 2005)

OOOOOOOOOOOOOh
i got one
Why is it if you send a package by truck, it's called shipping.
but if it's on a ship, it's called cargo?
hmm . . .


----------



## MrLoutish (Oct 24, 2003)

*Re: (drbobshowmaster)*


_Quote, originally posted by *drbobshowmaster* »_OOOOOOOOOOOOOh
i got one
Why is it if you send a package by truck, it's called shipping.
but if it's on a ship, it's called cargo?
hmm . . .


And And And
(as Mr. Carlin has pointed out)
Why do you drive on a parkway and park on a driveway


----------



## ModelCitizen (Mar 26, 2004)

*Re: (MrLoutish)*

Is crub weight with or without gas? I believe it includes fluids like coolant, oil, etc... but I'd like further explanation here puhlease.


----------



## Markasaurus! (May 25, 2005)

*Re: (BRealistic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BRealistic* »_Is it true that almost 50% of the driving public have above average driving skills?

Yes.


----------



## JunkPunch (Apr 23, 2003)

*Re: (Markasaurus!)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Markasaurus!* »_Yes.

No.


----------



## GTI 20v (Oct 12, 2000)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (the_marcus)*


_Quote, originally posted by *the_marcus* »_I'm afraid to ask this but is it possible to do anything to a 1st gen CR-V (2000 MY to be specific) engine to gain power? Because honestly they are slow.

Yes, Jackson Racing makes a supercharger kit. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## TabulaVicious (Sep 15, 2004)

*Re: (WOT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WOT* »_what are the benefits of an external wastegate on a turbo setup?











_Quote »_what boost levels should you go to an external wastegate?

My car (same as pictured above) runs 22PSI peaks at about 5000 RPM and gradually drops down to 20psi sustained above that. Redline is 7200 RPM. 280hp @ 5000 RPM, 340ft.lbs @ 3000 RPM.

_Quote »_can you run an internally wastegated turbo as external with the gate somehow held shut?

On Bosch Motronic cars, that is a function of the Wastegate Frequency Valve, aka WGFV, aka N75 valve. You could run manual boost control either alone to force the turbo to (attempt) to run a certain amount of boost or you could run it in series with a WGFV to force more boost on the bottom end but still have the WGFV moderate boost on the top end. 
Going too much beyond the efficiency range of the turbo will lead to something blowing up.


----------



## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (jebglx)*

Everywhere I have read regarding VW manual transmissions says that hearing reverse gear wine makes the transmission bad. What causes the wine to begin with, and what can be done to solve it if it is indeed a problem?


----------



## bobturk (Aug 19, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (abawp)*

its because the reverse gear is straight cut, theres nothing wrong with it


----------



## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (jebglx)*

Lets talk variable displacement motors for a moment. They work by shutting off certain injectors to save fuel, right? Wouldn't this cause an excessivly lean condition in the exhaust, causing the EGT to skyrocket? I couldn't imagine that being too good for the tubing, or is this a moot point?


----------



## Tongman (Apr 26, 2006)

So when my car is on the highway driving around 80mph, the revs are 3k. is this normal and is there a way i can buy and install a higher gear for fith gear?


----------



## jetta1.8tbee (Aug 29, 2005)

my question: 
How does the engine make the wheels moves?


----------



## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

Its because of the transmission. It takes the rotational energy of the crankshaft, which turns a set of gears inside the transmission, and transfers that energy to the axles.


----------



## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

*Re: (Tongman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Tongman* »_So when my car is on the highway driving around 80mph, the revs are 3k. is this normal and is there a way i can buy and install a higher gear for fith gear?

3k at 80mph is about normal for many cars, including mine. Some cars (Scirocco, Miata) sit at 4k at 80.


----------



## Markasaurus! (May 25, 2005)

*Re: (Tongman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Tongman* »_So when my car is on the highway driving around 80mph, the revs are 3k. is this normal and is there a way i can buy and install a higher gear for fith gear?

I took a 1.8T out on a test drive and it was turning at 3k at a mere 65-70 mph or so. You're fine.


----------



## Markasaurus! (May 25, 2005)

*Re: (JunkPunch)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JunkPunch* »_
No.

Yes.


----------



## borapumpkin (Nov 23, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (jebglx)*

how often should i change my spark plugs.... really.


----------



## VWVan (Feb 17, 2000)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (borapumpkin)*

Why do I see some cars on the road shimmy back and forth when going slow in traffic (I mean like 5mph or so)? usually in truck laden lanes in which there are a couple of ruts in the road. Is this from unbalanced tires? Worn out tires? Need an alignment?


----------



## borapumpkin (Nov 23, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (G20t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *G20t* »_Why do I see some cars on the road shimmy back and forth when going slow in traffic (I mean like 5mph or so)? usually in truck laden lanes in which there are a couple of ruts in the road. Is this from unbalanced tires? Worn out tires? Need an alignment?


it's because of the huge ruts in the road. i've been thrown over into the other lane almost into another car before.


----------



## Tongman (Apr 26, 2006)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (G20t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *G20t* »_Why do I see some cars on the road shimmy back and forth when going slow in traffic (I mean like 5mph or so)? usually in truck laden lanes in which there are a couple of ruts in the road. Is this from unbalanced tires? Worn out tires? Need an alignment?

avoiding pot holes or warmin up tires like in races?


----------



## jetta1.8tbee (Aug 29, 2005)

another one: Can i launch like this?
I have a 2001 jetta 1.8T automatic.
First i shift it to "N", give it some gas to make the engine at about 3500rpm, let go the gas then step slightly on the brake and shift to "D" before the rpm goes down below 3k.
i think this will be a quick launch, any idea?
will this hurt the transmission even if it works?
thanks.


----------



## craigsaid (Sep 7, 2005)

*Re: (jetta1.8tbee)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jetta1.8tbee* »_another one: Can i launch like this?
I have a 2001 jetta 1.8T automatic.
First i shift it to "N", give it some gas to make the engine at about 3500rpm, let go the gas then step slightly on the brake and shift to "D" before the rpm goes down below 3k.
i think this will be a quick launch, any idea?
will this hurt the transmission even if it works?
thanks.









Yes it will hurt the transmission a great deal. There is a complex system of little clutches in your transmission and when they have to abrumply transfer a lot of torque, you can basically destroy them.
The 2nd best way to launch an automatic transmission car is to step on the brake and gas until the engine gets up the stall speed then release the brake. Drag racers launch like this (although they usually use a trans-brake that actually engages first/reverse at the same time) except their torque converter will let the engine go to a much higher RPM before the stall speed is reached.
The best way to launch an automatic street car is to sell it and buy one with a manual.
Craig
edit: stall speed is as fast as your torque converter will allow your engine to spin when its in gear and the tires aren't spinning.


_Modified by craigsaid at 12:48 PM 4-27-2006_


----------



## jetta1.8tbee (Aug 29, 2005)

oops.


----------



## 97jetta2.8 (Oct 6, 2004)

Does anyone know a good site that explains how a Turbo works? I already went to howstuffworks.com. I need more in depth info.


----------



## goterps (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: (gtivr4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtivr4* »_Threshold braking is simply braking as hard as possible.

correction, braking as hard as possible WITHOUT locking up the brakes....


----------



## dmband0041 (Dec 10, 2003)

*Re: (97jetta2.8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *97jetta2.8* »_Does anyone know a good site that explains how a Turbo works? I already went to howstuffworks.com. I need more in depth info.

what in depth info? there is also a specific forced induction forum on this website that could be of service...but most likely someone in here can answer your question.


----------



## KharatosGTI (Feb 21, 2006)

*Re: (dmband0041)*

How does burn-out work? I mean isn't it the point of the brakes to stop the wheels from spinning? So how can you brake so hard to stop the front wheels from moving but keep the rear wheels spinning? Something about it just doesn't make physical sense to me.


----------



## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

This only works with rear drive cars, but basically, at a certain amount of pressure on the pedal, 90% of the braking is up front. Have enough torque, you can overcome the friction of the tires and that 10% of brake power. Everytime I see someone do this, I wonder how many times they have to replace their rear brakes.


----------



## 13minutes (Sep 8, 2002)

*Re: (abawp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *abawp* »_This only works with rear drive cars, 

No kidding?


----------



## thebigmacd (Aug 17, 2004)

*Re: (Cubster)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cubster* »_Ok I got a question.
N/A diesels use diesel fuel, why don't Turbo Diesels use a "super diesel" fuel (referring to how a gas turbo needs a higher octane fuel).

Because diesels rely on detonation. Octane controls whether the fuel ignites before the spark (bad thing) or not. Diesels don't have a spark.


----------



## KharatosGTI (Feb 21, 2006)

*Re: (13minutes)*


_Quote, originally posted by *13minutes* »_No kidding?


OK that makes even less sense, how .... what .... how could it.... huh?!?!


----------



## WhitePoloCT (Jul 28, 2005)

*Re: (KharatosGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KharatosGTI* »_OK that makes even less sense, how .... what .... how could it.... huh?!?!

In a FWD car, they just pull up the handbrake to do a burnout... the handbrake only works on the rear wheels.
Ok, I got one... What is tramlining? I've seen it mentioned in a road test of a CLK55 that the car has a tendency to tramline... so what is it?


----------



## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

*Re: (WhitePoloCT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WhitePoloCT* »_Ok, I got one... What is tramlining? I've seen it mentioned in a road test of a CLK55 that the car has a tendency to tramline... so what is it?









I guess it's the tendency for the car to attach itself to a taut cable and go up the side of a mountain


----------



## nach2103 (Jun 26, 2004)

*Re: (cityjohn)*

i've laughed a great deal tonight... between the kids sisters car getting hit with a bike and hawcs pic post in there and the waynes world comments and this one above.... oh what a great night in tcl. 

_Quote, originally posted by *cityjohn* »_I guess it's the tendency for the car to attach itself to a taut cable and go up the side of a mountain









.... tramlining: The term "tramlining" is being used to describe when directional control is disrupted by the vehicle's tendency to follow the longitudinal ruts and/or grooves in the road. It's name could be compared to the tram or trolley driver who does not steer because his vehicle follows the path established by the tracks.
found here: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/...id=47


----------



## michedlp (Jul 28, 2004)

Ok, here's one.
On the back of some cars, i've seen things like "32v", in the same place the 3.2 or 1.8t engine sizes would normally go. What does this mean? Or is there no significance and the car company is just putting it on to make the car seem cool?!
Miche


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

*Re: (Tongman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Tongman* »_So when my car is on the highway driving around 80mph, the revs are 3k. is this normal and is there a way i can buy and install a higher gear for fith gear?

Yes. You can change the gearsets if lower ratio gears are made for your trans. Many US spec VWs use something around 0.84 for a 5th gear, it is common to swap in a 0.79 or so, depending on what is available.

_Quote, originally posted by *abawp* »_Lets talk variable displacement motors for a moment. They work by shutting off certain injectors to save fuel, right? Wouldn't this cause an excessivly lean condition in the exhaust, causing the EGT to skyrocket? I couldn't imagine that being too good for the tubing, or is this a moot point?

No. If there is no fuel at all to burn, you will just be pushing extra air into the exhaust a la the secondary air injection system. The spark is also cut to the cylinders which do not receive fuel.


_Modified by atomicalex at 8:45 AM 4-28-2006_


----------



## jetta1.8tbee (Aug 29, 2005)

Questions about dropping a car in the bodyshop.
I am planning to drop my car in the bodyshop for some body damages repair. I still have no idea which bodyshop to go yet. 
If I leave the car there, do I have to ask them for a receipt or something? ... to prove that my car is there? I am worrying what if 2 weeks later i go there to pick up the car and they say I never leave any car there?
Thanks guys.


----------



## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

_Quote, originally posted by *atomicalex* »_No. If there is no fuel at all to burn, you will just be pushing extra air into the exhaust a la the secondary air injection system. The spark is also cut to the cylinders which do not receive fuel.

But doesn't extra Air = lean condition = hotter EGT's? Its the same principle used with secondary air pumps; lean out the exhaust mixture to heat up the cat during initial startup. My concern is that with a smog pump, your pumping _maybe_ the equivelant of an extra cylinder, but in V-8's with mutli-displacement technology, there going to extremes of shutting down 3, maybe 4 cylinders at a time. That a lot of extra O2 entering the exhaust stream.


----------



## nevermas (Aug 12, 2005)

*Re: (michedlp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *michedlp* »_Ok, here's one.
On the back of some cars, i've seen things like "32v", in the same place the 3.2 or 1.8t engine sizes would normally go. What does this mean? Or is there no significance and the car company is just putting it on to make the car seem cool?!
Miche

maybe the v stands for volume of displacement


----------



## jetta1.8tbee (Aug 29, 2005)

*Re: (jetta1.8tbee)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jetta1.8tbee* »_Questions about dropping a car in the bodyshop.
I am planning to drop my car in the bodyshop for some body damages repair. I still have no idea which bodyshop to go yet. 
If I leave the car there, do I have to ask them for a receipt or something? ... to prove that my car is there? I am worrying what if 2 weeks later i go there to pick up the car and they say I never leave any car there?
Thanks guys.









anyone?


----------



## geofftii2002 (Nov 6, 2001)

*Re: (jetta1.8tbee)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jetta1.8tbee* »_anyone?









You should have a copy of a signed work order to take with you. That's your "reciept". http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

*Re: (michedlp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *michedlp* »_Ok, here's one.
On the back of some cars, i've seen things like "32v", in the same place the 3.2 or 1.8t engine sizes would normally go. What does this mean? Or is there no significance and the car company is just putting it on to make the car seem cool?!
Miche

Probably means 32-valve engine, as in a V8 with a 4-valve head.


----------



## tbvvw (Jun 19, 2002)

Why does every hatch/wagon have a rear wiper but no sedans do?


----------



## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

The design of a hatchback causes a lot of turbulent airflow in the back, which in turn, causes a lot of sucking. When it rains, this "sucking" causes a lot of rainwater to get on the glass, and since they do not slope (like a sedan), gravity + inertia cannot pull the water off the rear glass.


----------



## tbvvw (Jun 19, 2002)

*Re: (abawp)*

Cool...thanks.
I drive an A3 but have an A4 loaner for 2 days (in the rain) and kept wanting to use the rear wiper...that wasn't there.


----------



## juice (Oct 19, 2004)

Some JDM sedans have them, I think certain EVOs do for instance.


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## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

I think that in most instances, your able to maintain enough water flow to "wash" the rear window enough to see out of.


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## farragutguy0 (Jul 2, 2005)

what does "tt" or "ttt" or "tttttttttttttttttttttttttt" mean?


----------



## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

*T*o *T*he *T*op


----------



## someguy123 (Sep 30, 2005)

Anyone tried this stuff? And how effective is it?
Seafoam, if it's hard to read...


----------



## SpoonTide (Apr 11, 2003)

*Re: (someguy123)*

How does a sunset work? How does the positrack on the rear end of a plymouth work? It just does


----------



## Tongman (Apr 26, 2006)

not that its a big problem but when I set my cruise control, it takes a few hundred feet/slows down 4-6mph to activate the cruise control. Is there something majorly wrong and can I fix/adjust?


----------



## Demo24 (Jan 22, 2006)

not really to much of a problem but why does our honda Accord not always catch on some hills? Most auto's will stand still on hills even steep ones. However put the Honda on a steep one and it starts to roll back. Kind of unnerving and since you don't have a clutch it's tricky to get moving without wheel spin. Now I just kind of hold the brake and gas at the same time, seems to help. just the 400rpm will allow it to catch
Is there just not enough torque to hold the car up there? I find that ironic as my Subaru which is vastly less powerful holds just fine on all hills.


----------



## undpilot757 (Sep 17, 2005)

*Re: (Demo24)*

I believe it has everything to do with the stall speed on your torque converter. I find that most new autos have a higher stall(it starts engaging at a higher RPM) than the older versions. Im not sure why this is. My old blazer will hold itself on fairly steep hills where as my oldsmobile will not. The olds has much more power, so I dunno why its setup that way. You figure you'd want the torque converter to engage at a higher RPM on a low hp car as to get more into the powerband.


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## Skizzle1111 (Oct 21, 2001)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (jebglx)*

what exactly is a standalone fuel management system and whats so good about it?


----------



## VWestlife (Sep 29, 2004)

*Re: (tbvvw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tbvvw* »_Why does every hatch/wagon have a rear wiper but no sedans do?


The first and only U.S.-market sedan with a rear wiper was the 1990-1993 Isuzu Stylus.


----------



## Braga_Dub (Sep 8, 2001)

*Re: (abawp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *abawp* »_The design of a hatchback causes a lot of turbulent airflow in the back, which in turn, causes a lot of sucking. When it rains, this "sucking" causes a lot of rainwater to get on the glass, and since they do not slope (like a sedan), gravity + inertia cannot pull the water off the rear glass.

Its super fun when you have a wing on top, and you drive really fast through a very very dusty road. it looks awesome from a 3rd person view!


----------



## someguy123 (Sep 30, 2005)

*Re: (tbvvw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tbvvw* »_Why does every hatch/wagon have a rear wiper but no sedans do?


Only sedan I recall that still has the rear wiper is the EVO.
Previous Skylines, STIs, EVOs had rear wipers.


----------



## Lwize (Dec 4, 2000)

*Re: (farragutguy0)*


_Quote, originally posted by *farragutguy0* »_what does "tt" or "ttt" or "tttttttttttttttttttttttttt" mean?

From TTCCA:
"The TT in the Audi TT stands for Tourist Trophy which is annual race run on the Isle of Man where a beefed up car was called a "TT". The event usually includes many different types of cars and motorcycles."
Don't ask what "TTCCA" stands for...


----------



## Lwize (Dec 4, 2000)

*Re: (Lwize)*

10 and 2, or 9 and 3??


----------



## jaobrien6 (Jan 11, 2005)

*Re: (Lwize)*

I seem to recall hearing that you should now put your hands at 9 and 3 instead of 10 and 2 since that keeps them out of the way of the airbag as much as possible, should it go off.


----------



## LSinLV (Nov 25, 2001)

*Re: (jaobrien6)*

Hey bill!

what's "Chomentia"????


----------



## G-rocco (Sep 11, 2004)

*Re: (G-rocco)*


_Quote, originally posted by *G-rocco* »_I remembered this question after seeing the limo thread - How do they make an H1 limo? Dosen't it have a huge central backbone that shields the drivetrain and such?

Anyone?


----------



## Tornado2dr (Mar 31, 2001)

*Re: (jaobrien6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jaobrien6* »_I seem to recall hearing that you should now put your hands at 9 and 3 instead of 10 and 2 since that keeps them out of the way of the airbag as much as possible, should it go off.

correct, but often some driver schools will teach that 4 and 8 should be your hand positions for regular driving, with shuffle steering so that your hands never go above the 9 or 3 locations.
when an airbag deploys, it WILL dislodge your hand from the wheel, and throw it away...into the roof, driver's door, steeply raked windsheild, whatever. Hands on the lower half of the wheel keep your arms mostly out of the way, i think because airbags blow out and up, not out and down.
I broke the side window of a lincoln mkVIII with my left hand...all the while being punched in the face by the airbag. My left hand HAD been around 10 oclock.


----------



## Arsigi (Oct 1, 2003)

*Re: (Tornado2dr)*

I always find interesting tidbits in this thread when it comes back to life. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I've got some questions on CV joints - not really sure what forum would be appropriate, so I'll ask here:
I know my one or more of my CV joints are going bad... making 'pinging' noises at low speeds and one is clicking at all speeds. I'm know it is the outer ones making those noises. Also, when letting the clutch out at low speeds, I get a rattling sort of noise - might that be an indication of the inner ones going bad? What is a worst case scenario for a CV joint 'failing', or can it 'fail' completely? I intend to replace both axles in the not-too-distant future, but don't know how worried about it I ought to be!


----------



## Tornado2dr (Mar 31, 2001)

*Re: (Arsigi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Arsigi* »_I always find interesting tidbits in this thread when it comes back to life. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I've got some questions on CV joints - not really sure what forum would be appropriate, so I'll ask here:
!

yes they can fail completely, it may be right now, may be two years from now.
I doubt that one popping off would cause any catastrophic events, but just change them on the principal of not being stranded! If one goes, you will be stranded, as the transaxle will just send all the effort to the axle with no resistance, and you will barely be able to move. rebuilt axles are fairly reasonable for vws, and if you have a few tools, jackstands, and a friend to help, you can do it in a saturday afternoon.


----------



## Skizzle1111 (Oct 21, 2001)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (Vento1999V6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Vento1999V6* »_what exactly is a standalone fuel management system and whats so good about it?

anyone?


----------



## VRSexRado (Jul 1, 2003)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (Vento1999V6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Vento1999V6* »_what exactly is a standalone fuel management system and whats so good about it?

gives you full timing/fuel and boost capabilities...will be benificial to almost any motor, NA FI or nitrous (as long as you know how to tune)
it's cheaper to invest in standalone than to blow up a motor cuz of bad a/f on a turbo kit. Every mod you make after the standalone, your car will be adapted PERFECTLY to the mods, assuming you're tuning it properly.
When the line was said in the movie F&F, it was to the assumption that too much nitrous oxide fed into the engine would blow the whole car up, which is not true.
too expensive for street cars for minimal gains....hollywood b.s.


----------



## Skizzle1111 (Oct 21, 2001)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (VRSexRado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VRSexRado* »_
gives you full timing/fuel and boost capabilities...will be benificial to almost any motor, NA FI or nitrous (as long as you know how to tune)
it's cheaper to invest in standalone than to blow up a motor cuz of bad a/f on a turbo kit. Every mod you make after the standalone, your car will be adapted PERFECTLY to the mods, assuming you're tuning it properly.
When the line was said in the movie F&F, it was to the assumption that too much nitrous oxide fed into the engine would blow the whole car up, which is not true.
too expensive for street cars for minimal gains....hollywood b.s.

thanks!


----------



## VRSexRado (Jul 1, 2003)

*Re: (someguy123)*


_Quote, originally posted by *someguy123* »_Anyone tried this stuff? And how effective is it?
Seafoam, if it's hard to read...









http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2525309


----------



## depireux (Feb 4, 2002)

*Re: (Lwize)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Lwize* »_10 and 2, or 9 and 3??









In Maryland, I believe (from looking at drivers on 95) that the law must state "6 and cell".


----------



## geofftii2002 (Nov 6, 2001)

*Re: (depireux)*

What is DUB? Or, better yet, why is it DUB? 
And that's not dub as in Vee-DUB, it's the stupid big wheels and ghetto style I see in bad car magazines...


----------



## abawp (Nov 30, 2005)

_Quote, originally posted by *depireux* »_In Maryland, I believe (from looking at drivers on 95) that the law must state "6 and cell". 


I thought it was common law that hands be positioned at 12 and cell, because its all about being "cool" in this world















Editting for my question (so we can stay on topic).
Dwell time of the piston is when the piston is essentially no longer moving in relation to the piston rod movement, correct? Longer rods decrease dwell time while shorter rods increase dwell time? Also, for a high revving motor, is it beneficial to have a shorter rod, taller crank, or a longer rod, shorter crank?


_Modified by abawp at 8:04 AM 5-25-2006_


----------



## arozanski (Apr 2, 2003)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (VRSexRado)*


_Quote »_what exactly is a standalone fuel management system and whats so good about it?


_Quote, originally posted by *VRSexRado* »_
gives you full timing/fuel and boost capabilities...will be benificial to almost any motor, NA FI or nitrous (as long as you know how to tune)
it's cheaper to invest in standalone than to blow up a motor cuz of bad a/f on a turbo kit. Every mod you make after the standalone, your car will be adapted PERFECTLY to the mods, assuming you're tuning it properly.
When the line was said in the movie F&F, it was to the assumption that too much nitrous oxide fed into the engine would blow the whole car up, which is not true.
too expensive for street cars for minimal gains....hollywood b.s.

A standalone system is fuel injection in a box - it isn't specific to any one auto manufacturer. For example, you could add fuel injection to a carb'ed Chevy using an ACCEL standalone system without having to incorporate any of the Chevy's electronics, other than a power source. Standalones usually require much less fabrication and are flexible in tuning.


----------



## depireux (Feb 4, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (Uranium235)*

What Ferraris are 4-door?


----------



## depireux (Feb 4, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (depireux)*


_Quote, originally posted by *depireux* »_What Ferraris are 4-door?

I guess you guys don't know.


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

*Re: (abawp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *abawp* »_But doesn't extra Air = lean condition = hotter EGT's? Its the same principle used with secondary air pumps; lean out the exhaust mixture to heat up the cat during initial startup. My concern is that with a smog pump, your pumping _maybe_ the equivelant of an extra cylinder, but in V-8's with mutli-displacement technology, there going to extremes of shutting down 3, maybe 4 cylinders at a time. That a lot of extra O2 entering the exhaust stream.

Higher EGTs? Possibly. That assumes that the O2 is available to the combustion process, though. Since it is entering the stream post-combustion, I'm not really sure that it will affect it.
Certainly worth looking in to.


----------



## enriquejcu (Sep 16, 2004)

What's the history behind the placement of Saab's ignition?


----------



## anothercar (Dec 20, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (depireux)*

They made a few 456 Ferrari's 4 doors








The sultan has a few 456 wagons...technically a 5 door








The psuedo F-car SUV LaForza


----------



## anothercar (Dec 20, 2002)

*Re: (enriquejcu)*


_Quote, originally posted by *enriquejcu* »_What's the history behind the placement of Saab's ignition?

I found this...
Saab believes this is a safer position in case of an accident. The driver's knee often jerks upward in a collision; the compact and dense ignition module on the steering column of many other cars has shattered many kneecaps. Second, the floor-mounted position yields more space, allowing modern Saabs to have a metal bar that rotates over and up into the ignition when the key is turned to the "Lock" position. This makes Saabs very challenging to hotwire. Last of all, the ignition is located on the floor because, in the airplanes that inspired Saab automobiles, the throttle controls were all located down on the floor. Originally Saabs also had the key located on the right side of the steering column, but when they changed from a column shifter to a floor shifter, the ignition key followed along, except in the Sonett III and 9000.


----------



## enriquejcu (Sep 16, 2004)

*Re: (anothercar)*

Interesting, thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## depireux (Feb 4, 2002)

*Re: (enriquejcu)*

Do all truck (cars?) driveshafts turn counter-clock wise as seen from behind? Who decided on that?


----------



## MoMoney (May 27, 2006)

*Re: (depireux)*

When someone says "the transmission is slipping" what exactly are they refering to?


----------



## JustinCSVT (Oct 3, 2004)

*Re: (MoMoney)*

Can engines really run backwards?


----------



## nevermas (Aug 12, 2005)

*Re: (JustinCSVT)*

what are the six red cars featured in the opening of the old top gear opening montage, before the changeup this season?


----------



## mobile363 (Oct 14, 2003)

Why does my Golf blow black smoke only when the engine is hot?


----------



## WhitePoloCT (Jul 28, 2005)

*Re: (MoMoney)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MoMoney* »_When someone says "the transmission is slipping" what exactly are they refering to?

I assume they are refering to the clutch that is slipping. This happens near the end of the life cycle of a clutch, or if oil has gotten onto it. The clutch is no longer able to "grab" properly, causing slipping. The revs will rise and fall with no change in vehicle speed...
I've driven an old Honda with a slipping clutch, and needless to say, I had to _baby_ the accelerator to get it to move... Too much gas and the revs would just climb, I'd be standing still and a burning smell would emanate from the engine bay. Not fun.


----------



## geofftii2002 (Nov 6, 2001)

*Re: (geofftii2002)*


_Quote, originally posted by *geofftii2002* »_What is DUB? Or, better yet, why is it DUB? 
And that's not dub as in Vee-DUB, it's the stupid big wheels and ghetto style I see in bad car magazines... 

Anybody know? Just curious.


----------



## SC_VW (Sep 2, 2005)

*Re: (geofftii2002)*


_Quote, originally posted by *geofftii2002* »_
Anybody know? Just curious.









The term "DUB" is street slang for wheels 20" or above and was popularized through hip hop music and people who think they are "gangster" http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## CBJ (Sep 16, 2000)

*Re: (enriquejcu)*


_Quote, originally posted by *enriquejcu* »_What's the history behind the placement of Saab's ignition?

It serves to lock the shifter in reverse.
or
It is there to make Saab dealers money when your coffee spills in and shorts out the ignition switch.


----------



## depireux (Feb 4, 2002)

*Re: (CBJ)*

Other than the Maserati Bora, who many cars had fixed seats and adjustable pedal box and sterring wheel?


----------



## JrodVW (Mar 9, 2001)

*Re: (enriquejcu)*

Why on older 50/60/70's cars do the wheels sit so far inboard of the fenders? You know what I mean?
Not a good picture at all, but gives you the idea


----------



## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

*Re: (JrodVW)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JrodVW* »_Why on older 50/60/70's cars do the wheels sit so far inboard of the fenders? You know what I mean?
Not a good picture at all, but gives you the idea

 
Good question. I've always wondered this myself. It gives them such an ungainly and boaty appearance. 
Is "boaty" even a word?


----------



## okanagan45 (Feb 19, 2003)

*Re: (JrodVW)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JrodVW* »_Why on older 50/60/70's cars do the wheels sit so far inboard of the fenders? 

To keep the dirt & water from flying onto the outside body panels. 
Styles and auto manufacturing technique's change with time. You will also notice heavy chrome bumpers were standard on all cars.


----------



## nevermas (Aug 12, 2005)

*Re: (okanagan45)*

i've noticed that some mustangs have "python" written on the bumper. i did a google search and couldn't come up with anything about them. What is so special about these "python" mustangs?


----------



## OoTLink (Dec 7, 2005)

*Re: (Chmeeee)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Chmeeee* »_
It is true. When you are coasting in gear, the engine doesn't need fuel to keep spinning it, the car momentum does that. Therefore it would be a waste of fuel to send fuel to the injectors. People over at TDI Club tested this by driving the car with a laptop connected to the computer. Coasting in gear, the injection quantity was zero. I personally tested it by shutting off the car going down a long, straight, empty hill. Nothing changed when I shut it off or turned it back on. Sound stayed the same, deceleration rate stayed the same, etc.

w00t!
Always wondered about downshifting - now I know, and I'll use that autostick a bit more. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## lowf150rider (Apr 26, 2006)

*Re: (nevermas)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nevermas* »_i've noticed that some mustangs have "python" written on the bumper. i did a google search and couldn't come up with anything about them. What is so special about these "python" mustangs? 

The ford mustang come in differnt types so to say(gt, cobra etc)
so as ive heard....when you buy a mustang cobra and then take it to saleen to get it upgraded they put a python bumper in the place of the cobra or mustang normal imprint


----------



## gotta_jet (Feb 11, 2002)

*Re: (lowf150rider)*


_Quote, originally posted by *lowf150rider* »_
The ford mustang come in differnt types so to say(gt, cobra etc)
so as ive heard....when you buy a mustang cobra and then take it to saleen to get it upgraded they put a python bumper in the place of the cobra or mustang normal imprint









i was under the impression saleen mustangs had a bumper that said saleen on it.


----------



## nevermas (Aug 12, 2005)

*Re: (lowf150rider)*


_Quote, originally posted by *lowf150rider* »_The ford mustang come in differnt types so to say(gt, cobra etc)
so as ive heard....when you buy a mustang cobra and then take it to saleen to get it upgraded they put a python bumper in the place of the cobra or mustang normal imprint









the bumpers are still normal mustang bumpers, but with a script like "python" scribbled in a diagonal manner on the upper right hand corner, it isn't imprinted on the bumper.


----------



## lowf150rider (Apr 26, 2006)

*Re: (nevermas)*

Yeh like i said im not an expert when it comes to that


----------



## fixmy59bug (Apr 9, 2002)

*Re: (WhitePoloCT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MoMoney* »_When someone says "the transmission is slipping" what exactly are they refering to?


_Quote, originally posted by *WhitePoloCT* »_I assume they are refering to the clutch that is slipping. This happens near the end of the life cycle of a clutch, or if oil has gotten onto it. The clutch is no longer able to "grab" properly, causing slipping. The revs will rise and fall with no change in vehicle speed...

Actually if someone is referring to a manual transmission, then yes, they will say their clutch is slipping. However if they have an automatic transmission, there is no clutch, so the trans would slip. Here's why:
In an automatic transmission, the torque convertor spins an oil pump which provides hydraulic pressure (routed through the valve body) to a couple sets of bands. These bands have friction material on them so they can lock onto the spinning drums (or planetary gear housings) inside the transmission. When the transmission fluid gets low, so does the hydraulic pressure. Also when the friction material gets worn down, the grabbing power of the band is reduced. When either of these instances occurs, the band is unable to completely hold onto the planetary gear housing and it will spin. What you feel is the "transmission slipping". If you want more information on this check out http://auto.howstuffworks.com/...n.htm



_Modified by fixmy59bug at 7:09 PM 8-3-2006_


----------



## MoMoney (May 27, 2006)

*Re: (fixmy59bug)*


_Quote, originally posted by *fixmy59bug* »_Actually if someone is referring to a manual transmission, then yes, they will say their clutch is slipping. However if they have an automatic transmission, there is no clutch, so the trans would slip. Here's why:
In an automatic transmission, the torque convertor spins an oil pump which provides hydraulic pressure (routed through the valve body) to a couple sets of bands. These bands have friction material on them so they can lock onto the spinning drums (or planetary gear housings) inside the transmission. When the transmission fluid gets low, so does the hydraulic pressure. Also when the friction material gets worn down, the grabbing power of the band is reduced. When either of these instances occurs, the band is unable to completely hold onto the planetary gear housing and it will spin. What you feel is the "transmission slipping". If you want more information on this check out http://auto.howstuffworks.com/...n.htm

_Modified by fixmy59bug at 6:24 PM 8-3-2006_

Soo, when my cars engine climbs, but the car is not moving forward, can I assume this means that the transmission is slipping? If so, does that go away after driving for a few minutes?


----------



## fixmy59bug (Apr 9, 2002)

Well, a little slipping is natural and pretty much unavoidable. That is because the torque convertor is a liquid coupling device. So a little bit of slipping will naturally occur there. But if your engine speed is increasing and your vehicle speed is barely moving (or not moving at all) it *could* be because of the transmission or any other number of things. It may or may not go away depending on what the actual problem is.


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (MoMoney)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MoMoney* »_Soo, when my cars engine climbs, but the car is not moving forward, can I assume this means that the transmission is slipping? If so, does that go away after driving for a few minutes?









because fluid (like all things) expand when they get hot. so the oil in your trans/TC takes up more space (while maintaining its compressibility -almost none-) so things start to work a little better.


----------



## Rub a dub dub (Sep 8, 2003)

*Re: (TurboWraith)*

Do semis redline at 2000?


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (Rub a dub dub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Rub a dub dub* »_Do semis redline at 2000?

give or take a few, yes. that is where the govoner slows things down.








some may go as high as 3000 (cummins generally rev higher) and some as low as 1700 (usually Cats are the lopers) but both obviously get the job done very well.


----------



## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

*Re: (JrodVW)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JrodVW* »_Why on older 50/60/70's cars do the wheels sit so far inboard of the fenders? You know what I mean?

At the time, people were thinking "Wow, look how much farther the stylish body goes beyond the wheels! These new cars are just getting wider and wider!" It's all relative.


----------



## demanufacture (Mar 5, 2006)

*Re: (cityjohn)*

i dont know if this has been asked before...but does ABS also work when you´re going backwards? has somebody tried this yet?


----------



## jettagirl2 (Jul 31, 2006)

*Re: (AutobahnTDI)*

This may not apply to all states in the U.S., but why do they put those idiotic pedestrian signs right in the center line between the lanes of traffic? I swear, I pay more attention to making sure my precious car doesn't hit it than I do looking out for pedestrians! They seem to put them in areas where you are least likely to spot pedestrians too. What's the point of that? Probably nobody knows, but it's worth asking because I hate those things. Those signs are asking too much of us. Sorry, I can't look for pedestrians and not side-swipe your silly signs at the same time! LOL.


----------



## jettagirl2 (Jul 31, 2006)

*Re: (cityjohn)*

Also, is it a myth that you can get in an small accident without knowing it?


----------



## sweatyworker (May 4, 2005)

What is a "Fox" body? and where does the name come from?


----------



## WhitePoloCT (Jul 28, 2005)

*Re: (sweatyworker)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sweatyworker* »_What is a "Fox" body? and where does the name come from?

It's used when referring to an older generation Ford Mustang, not sure which though...


----------



## thatguyoverthere (Jun 16, 2006)

*Re: (WhitePoloCT)*

Fox body stangs are generally the 80s style mustangs and go until their redesign in 1994.
So fox bodies go from 198? to 1993 I'm pretty sure.
Very fun little cars that can easily be modified or built up.


----------



## nevermas (Aug 12, 2005)

*Re: (thatguyoverthere)*

it was an entire platform called the fox
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Fox_platform
Vehicles using this platform:
* 1978-1983 Ford Fairmont
* 1978-1983 Mercury Zephyr
* 1979-1993 Ford Mustang
* 1979-1986 Mercury Capri
* 1980-1988 Ford Thunderbird
* 1980-1988 Mercury Cougar
* 1981-1982 Ford Granada
* 1982-1987 Lincoln Continental
* 1983-1986 Ford LTD
* 1983-1986 Mercury Marquis
* 1984-1992 Lincoln Mark VII


----------



## DarkSpawn (Aug 10, 1999)

*Re: (nevermas)*

Ok... I searched the first 10-12 pages and didn't find this question.. so I've got to ask.
Why do race prepped cars have their headlights taped over?


----------



## Vdub18TGTI (Jun 26, 2006)

*Re: (DarkSpawn)*

i think it has something to do with if the glass breaks it doesn't go all over the track. its supposed to stay intact still or something.? not sure exactly though and i thought i read that on this thread. beats me. im probably wrong.


----------



## toucci (May 22, 2006)

*Re: (Vdub18TGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Vdub18TGTI* »_i think it has something to do with if the glass breaks it doesn't go all over the track. its supposed to stay intact still or something.? not sure exactly though and i thought i read that on this thread. beats me. im probably wrong.

Yeah, it's to try to hold the glass shards together like tint does with tempered car windows


----------



## Sepp (Dec 10, 2002)

*Re: (demanufacture)*


_Quote, originally posted by *demanufacture* »_i dont know if this has been asked before...but does ABS also work when you´re going backwards? has somebody tried this yet?









In my Audi it does.....


----------



## enriquejcu (Sep 16, 2004)

*Re: (Sepp)*

I'm going to bump this to see if we can get some more intriguing questions.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## andlf (Feb 6, 2008)

*Re:*

ttt
this thread be funneee! especially page 10 at the bottom.















but i have one...whats up with the pink coolant?
did i overlook the answer?




_Modified by andlf at 7:01 PM 7-3-2008_


----------



## bWs (Dec 27, 2004)

*Re: (ZeroGravity97GT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ZeroGravity97GT* »_What does "ttt" mean?

http://www.acronymfinder.com/TTT.html


----------



## yoohoorocket (Jan 17, 2008)

*Re: (atomicalex)*


_Quote, originally posted by *atomicalex* »_Shifter gate = slop reducer
Not all trans are snick-snick and fork-tidy. Some are really slushy and finding gears is more of a prayer. Gates insure that you will actually select a gear. Not necessarily the right one, but at least you will select a gear.


That really makes me wonder why they don't put them in ALL cars then? Seriously. Does that not make sense?


----------



## Crash6 (Sep 28, 2001)

*Re: (yoohoorocket)*

A nice hypothetical so bear with me:
With the advent of the CVT transmission, we effectively have a band-adjustable, infinitely variable gear set. Now, bearing that in mind, with improved metallurgy, or even the use of exotic materials, why would it not be possible to make a constant speed engine, where your requested increase/decrease in speed, comes instead from adjustable gear multiplication?
Traditional controls are left in place, a constant speed engine would have spectacular gas mileage, etc. 
Why couldn't that work?


----------



## WhitePoloCT (Jul 28, 2005)

*Re: (Crash6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Crash6* »_A nice hypothetical so bear with me:
With the advent of the CVT transmission, we effectively have a band-adjustable, infinitely variable gear set. Now, bearing that in mind, with improved metallurgy, or even the use of exotic materials, why would it not be possible to make a constant speed engine, where your requested increase/decrease in speed, comes instead from adjustable gear multiplication?
Traditional controls are left in place, a constant speed engine would have spectacular gas mileage, etc. 
Why couldn't that work? 

I'm not an expert on this, but bear with me on this. Your car requires a certain power output from the engine to maintain a certain speed. So during *very* relaxed acceleration a CVT equipped vehicle will probably stay at about 2500rpm while the transmission does the work of accelerating the vehicle. 
The thing is though, at 2500rpm you vehicle will be limited to a certain top speed, and to go faster, or accelerate faster, you will require additional power from the engine, causing the engine speed to increase. It's physics I guess, the car will need extra power to overcome resistance.
Then again, you have turbine engined vehicles that use gearboxes to vary speed. But then again, when extra power is needed... ugh...
In short, I thought I could answer the question, but I can't...


----------



## pinktshirt (Jul 25, 2007)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (Markasaurus!)*

is this thread even bumpable? anyway i'm gonna bump this thing....

how does clutchless shifting work? the other day i heard about a dude who could change gears without clutching in.. so i decided to try it out.. got to about 4000 rpm in first then pulled the gear lever down, and it slid out of gear.. i revmatched a bit and then pulled again into second and it worked! can anyone explain exactly how this works? :/


----------



## BMW_330Ci_Kid (Aug 2, 2007)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (pinktshirt)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pinktshirt* »_is this thread even bumpable? anyway i'm gonna bump this thing....

how does clutchless shifting work? the other day i heard about a dude who could change gears without clutching in.. so i decided to try it out.. got to about 4000 rpm in first then pulled the gear lever down, and it slid out of gear.. i revmatched a bit and then pulled again into second and it worked! can anyone explain exactly how this works? :/

The engine and gear is going the same speed, they mesh. It's hard on the syncros though.


----------



## badass (Mar 6, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (BMW_330Ci_Kid)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BMW_330Ci_Kid* »_
The engine and gear is going the same speed, they mesh. It's hard on the syncros though. 

Never knew this, good to know


----------



## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (badass)*

okay so if im driving with no throttle at 6000 rpm is it pumping the same amount of gas as if i am driving at full throttle at the same rpm?


----------



## JustinCSVT (Oct 3, 2004)

*Re: (yoohoorocket)*


_Quote, originally posted by *yoohoorocket* »_

That really makes me wonder why they don't put them in ALL cars then? Seriously. Does that not make sense?

Makes for slow shifts.


----------



## bluerabbit0886 (Nov 19, 2003)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (mellbergVWfan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mellbergVWfan* »_okay so if im driving with no throttle at 6000 rpm is it pumping the same amount of gas as if i am driving at full throttle at the same rpm?









in gear?
if youre in gear and not giving it gas, there is no gas being injected on modern vehicles.


----------



## Shivatron (Aug 4, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (BMW_330Ci_Kid)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BMW_330Ci_Kid* »_
The engine and gear is going the same speed, they mesh. It's hard on the syncros though. 

Well, I suppose that's not strictly true; if you are good enough to *perfectly* match the engine and road speeds, then there will be no work for the synchro to do, right? Ergo, no wear. Not that I'd recommend doing it -- clutches are cheaper than transmissions.


----------



## Eg2Driver (Jul 9, 2007)

*Re: Re: (andlf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *andlf* »_ttt
this thread be funneee! especially page 10 at the bottom.















but i have one...whats up with the pink coolant?
did i overlook the answer?


Pink coolant is G12. If you look in an old honda, you will see lots of calcium and other mineral deposits. G12 doesn't do that, but its much more expensive. I still think this stuff should come in ALL cars.


----------



## MyBlueR32Turbo (Oct 26, 2006)

*Re: (Sunil)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Sunil* »_Will double-clutching make your synchros last longer?
Also, does putting the car in gear when parking cause wear on any transmission parts (bushings...or something...I'm ignint).

wtf is double clutching 
how to do it and why??


----------



## Merc-MarkO (Nov 21, 2001)

*Re: (MyBlueR32Turbo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MyBlueR32Turbo* »_
wtf is double clutching 
how to do it and why??

IIRC, it's when you go clutch in --> neutral --> clutch out --> clutch in --> desired gear --> clutch out.
You do it on non synchro transmissions or on trans with shot synchros.


----------



## baconisgood (May 9, 2008)

*Re: (Merc-MarkO)*

I'm raising this thing up from the dead!
Someone explain "hub-centric" to me please.


----------



## lrusak (May 1, 2007)

*Re: (Merc-MarkO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Merc-MarkO* »_
IIRC, it's when you go clutch in --> neutral --> clutch out --> clutch in --> desired gear --> clutch out.
You do it on non synchro transmissions or on trans with shot synchros. 

isn't it
clutch in --> neutral --> clutch out --> Give it some gas --> clutch in --> desired gear --> clutch out.
I was always aware that was to spool up the transmission for when you shifted to the next gear.








you have to do it quickly though to make it worth while


----------



## mike_A3 (Jun 30, 2008)

*Re: (baconisgood)*


_Quote, originally posted by *baconisgood* »_I'm raising this thing up from the dead!
Someone explain "hub-centric" to me please.

some wheels, like on a honda or a miata are centered onto the hub because the lugs are conical or spherical and there is only one place the wheel can be. If you just put the wheel on the studs it moves around a bit while the face of the wheel still contacts the face of the hub. This is "lug centric" meaning the lug nuts themselves center the wheel
On an older VW cabrio the center of the wheel tightly fits the center of the hub The lugs could just be any bolts that hold the wheel to the hub, they don't have to center it because it is already centered by the hole on the wheel fitting over the hub. This is "hub centric".


----------



## Das Borgen (Sep 10, 2008)

*Re: (baconisgood)*


_Quote, originally posted by *baconisgood* »_I'm raising this thing up from the dead!
Someone explain "hub-centric" to me please.

hub-centric wheels are also generally preferred due to less slop in the whole assembly, as compared to lug-centric wheels


----------



## Das Borgen (Sep 10, 2008)

*Re: (CosmicTDI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CosmicTDI* »_WTF is Shocker? 

2 in the pink, 1 in the stink http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## a3lad (Aug 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*

how do i shoot web?
also, then who was phone?


----------



## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (a3lad)*


_Quote, originally posted by *a3lad* »_how do i shoot web?
also, then who was phone?


----------



## bizybyker (May 25, 2005)

*Re: (GTIcharlie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GTIcharlie* »_wtf is VW kool aid?
 My guess is it is a reference to Jonestown or "Peoples Temple Agricultural Project". A cult that committed mass suicide in the late 70's by drinking a mixture of posion and kool aid flavored beverage. Same as saying "drinking the kool aid" or meaning your brain washed or in this case blindly fallow the VW "cult".


----------



## TetsuoShima (Nov 30, 2008)

Let's say that you're driving a 5spd automatic car and you're going 130km/h...Why is it that when you're going at that speed the tachometer reads 2-3k rpm but when going the same speed in a 5spd manual car the tachometer reads 4krpm?
Thanks.


----------



## TheDarkEnergist (Aug 22, 2009)

*Re: (TetsuoShima)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TetsuoShima* »_Let's say that you're driving a 5spd automatic car and you're going 130km/h...Why is it that when you're going at that speed the tachometer reads 2-3k rpm but when going the same speed in a 5spd manual car the tachometer reads 4krpm?
Thanks.

Automatic transmissions usually adjust themselves to be more fuel effecient when you finally settle into a cruising speed, so when you're at speed and the car realizes you don't need any more power than is necessary to keep the car rolling, it drops the RPMS so you're not burning more fuel than is needed.


----------



## chetacer (Dec 23, 2002)

*Re: (TheDarkEnergist)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheDarkEnergist* »_
Automatic transmissions usually adjust themselves to be more fuel effecient when you finally settle into a cruising speed, so when you're at speed and the car realizes you don't need any more power than is necessary to keep the car rolling, it drops the RPMS so you're not burning more fuel than is needed.


AT not only drops RPMs, it goes into a gear that allows less rpms to do the an amount of work suitable for crusing, ie. "overdrive"...I don't think anyone uses that term anymore though.
I have a related question regarding gear ratios. You see specs on gear ratios that have 1st, 2nd, 3rd....up to 5th or 6th, and then a "Final Gear" ratio. What does this final gear really mean, and does it imply that a 5 speed tranny actually uses 6 gear ratios?


----------



## G_RockNYTN (Nov 5, 2006)

*Re: (chetacer)*


_Quote, originally posted by *chetacer* »_
AT not only drops RPMs, it goes into a gear that allows less rpms to do the an amount of work suitable for crusing, ie. "overdrive"...I don't think anyone uses that term anymore though.
I have a related question regarding gear ratios. You see specs on gear ratios that have 1st, 2nd, 3rd....up to 5th or 6th, and then a "Final Gear" ratio. What does this final gear really mean, and does it imply that a 5 speed tranny actually uses 6 gear ratios?

Final drive takes the differential into account, which is actually a "gear" by definition. And "overdrive" may not be used specifically as a term, but any gear that is less than 1:1 (engine rpm:wheel rpm) ratio is overdriven.


----------



## TheDarkEnergist (Aug 22, 2009)

*Re: (chetacer)*

Thanks for that...I was hesitating to use overdrive because I realize it is becoming an obselete term


----------



## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

*Re: (TheDarkEnergist)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheDarkEnergist* »_Thanks for that...I was hesitating to use overdrive because I realize it is becoming an obselete term









Manual cars typically rev higher on the highway because cars with a manual transmissions are usually the sporty trim these days, instead of economy as in the past. My Civic, for example, turns 4000 RPM at 80 MPH. It has great pickup, but the mileage is only so-so. 
The trend is starting to change, though, with cars like the Cobalt XFE and Hyundai Accent and Elantra Blue. They have nice, tall gear ratios for relaxed highway cruising, but may require a downshift for quick passing.
And lots of cars have multiple overdrive gears these days. 4th, 5th and 6th are all overdrive in the 2010 Camry 6-speed manual (.975, .744, .659). It has a 4.058 axle ratio and nice low revs on the highway (for a 4-cylinder). 60 in 6th is 2000 RPM, 70 is 2400, 80 is 2800, 100 is 3400.
The Cobalt XFE works out about the same, with a .69 5th and a 3.63 axle ratio.


----------



## TetsuoShima (Nov 30, 2008)

Another noob question:
Can someone please explain gear rations (or a link to a great site explaining them)?
I'm always lost when you guys talk about short and tall gears lol
Thanks...really really good thread btw.


----------



## Boston Chuck (Dec 13, 2001)

*Re: (TetsuoShima)*

I've asked before, but never really got a real explanation... What is happening, exactly, to cause the sound of valve tick? And why does it happen?


----------



## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

*Re: (TetsuoShima)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TetsuoShima* »_Another noob question:
Can someone please explain gear rations (or a link to a great site explaining them)?
I'm always lost when you guys talk about short and tall gears lol


I'm sure one of the engineers here can explain it better than me, but I'll give it a shot.
For years and years, the top gear in cars was a 1:1 ratio (one revolution in, one revolution out) which provided good pickup at the expense of mileage. Overdrive simply means that you get more than one revolution out for every one that comes in, so the engine can run at a lower RPM on the interstate.
Automakers put "short" gears and final drive ratios in a car for better acceleration from a smaller engine. Cars like my Civic Si, for example, will quickly pull through the gears and accelerate rather briskly for a 2-liter engine. The downside is that it requires a lot of shifting since each gear doesn't have a large speed range. It's fun with a smooth engine like a Honda K-series, but with my car 1st is good for about 30 MPH; 2nd for about 56 MPH — and it revs high on the interstate, which gets fatiguing after a while and kills the mileage.
Taller gears work best on torquier engines. An extreme example is something like the Corvette. It has a 2.66 1st, 1.78 2nd, 1.30 3rd, 1.0 4th, .74 5th, .50 6th and 3.42 axle ratio. That means it can do 57 in 1st, 85 in 2nd, 117 in 3rd, 152 in 4th, 202 in 5th and a theoretical 304 in 6th. That ultra-tall 6th gear is why it can have over 400 horsepower and still get 26 MPG on the highway. At 60 MPH it is turning 1300 RPM in 6th; 1500 at 70, 1700 at 80 and 2100 at 100 MPH.
The new 6-speed transmissions that are coming out are really the best of both worlds, especially when used with smaller engines. They can have short 1-4 gears for good acceleration off the line and tall top gears for relaxed highway cruising. Take a look at this Jetta TDI 0-60 video. It doesn't hit 60 until 4th gear! 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1kR--0eDJhY
And when someone says "close-ratio" transmission, it means the gear ratios are optimized to keep the engine in the powerband while accelerating. With a Honda, for example, you want the engine to still be in VTEC after upshifting at redline. You wouldn't want to end up in 2nd gear at something like 3800 RPM after upshifting from 1st at 8000 RPM because it will have to pull through a couple thousand RPMs until it hits VTEC again.
Howstuff works has a pretty good page on gear ratios:
http://www.howstuffworks.com/gears.htm


----------



## ThisSpaceForRent (May 15, 2009)

*FV-QR*

why does my nose bleed when I pick it? /ralph
oh wait, not those kind of questions...
...I'll just excuse myself


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

*Re: (adrew)*

Another good video example: Chrysler Town & Country 6-speed automatic. Gears 1-3 are short to get up to speed quickly and 4th is substantially taller. See how it takes so much longer to pull through 4th?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gIIkbk6sEqs


----------



## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

*FV-QR*

How is is pronounced: Nissan SER Spec-Vee, or Nissan SER Spec-5?


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## Das Borgen (Sep 10, 2008)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *NicholasJay* »_How is is pronounced: Nissan SER Spec-Vee, or Nissan SER Spec-5?


the former. It's a letter


----------



## DIAF (Sep 17, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Das Borgen)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Das Borgen* »_
the former. It's a letter









Yup, it's short for "Specification - Victory", reverse of the GT-R's Victory - Specification and Victory - Specification Two (V-Spec and V-Spec II)


----------



## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Das Borgen* »_
the former. It's a letter











_Quote, originally posted by *DIAF* »_
Yup, it's short for "Specification - Victory", reverse of the GT-R's Victory - Specification and Victory - Specification Two (V-Spec and V-Spec II)


Thanks! That's the way I've always pronounced it, but I never knew why.


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## eeki (Apr 28, 2002)

*Re: (Boston Chuck)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Boston Chuck* »_I've asked before, but never really got a real explanation... What is happening, exactly, to cause the sound of valve tick? And why does it happen?

When the cam revolves, it presses down on the lifter (for example - there are more variations to this). At the bottom of the cam (when the valve lift is zero) there is a small amount of play, eg. the cam is detached from the lifter for a very short period of time. When the cam continues revolving, it hits the lifter again, making a sound ("tick"). 
This play is there because of thermal expansion. If there was no play, and the parts would expand due to high temperature, the valve would actually never close. This in turn would cause bad performance etc, because the compression chamber wouldn't be "airtight".
Excess valve tick means that the play is for some reason (wear, sticking hydraulic lifter) too large.
The ticking noise heard from the engine bay can also be something else, typically injectors opening and shutting.


_Modified by eeki at 11:15 PM 11-24-2009_


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*Re: (adrew)*

Can someone help me understand how the bearings on the crank determine the difference between a V, flat V, and inline? Or how the number of bearings have an impact on the engine at all.


----------



## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

*Re: (VDub2625)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VDub2625* »_Can someone help me understand how the bearings on the crank determine the difference between a V, flat V, and inline? Or how the number of bearings have an impact on the engine at all.

Why does that matter? Going crank shopping in a crank-only junk yard?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*Re: (DarthVader)*

I'm curious about engine design?I didn't realize I had to be buying something to ask a question in this thread


----------



## mr lee (Jan 31, 2005)

*Re: (VDub2625)*

the number of cylinders determine how many bearings the crank has. and now that i think about different engines and the different bearings on the crank, it really depends on the engine.
rod bearings, main bearings, etc. 
edit: being a V style engine or a straight 6 has no bearing on the number of bearings... 
edit edit... i misunderstood your question the fisrt time I read it. Rod bearings are Rod bearings, and Main bearings are Main bearings... it doesn't really matter if the rods are going straight up and down or at a V angle. The casting of the block will determine this.. *shrug* 


_Modified by mr lee at 3:55 PM 11-24-2009_


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## dieselraver (Nov 11, 2007)

can someone explain the difference between gasoline octanes and the significance on engines whether N/A turboed, supercharged, german, american, japanese etc. what would happen if you did not follow the automakers gasoline recommendation, other than knocking. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *mr lee* »_
edit edit... i misunderstood your question the fisrt time I read it. Rod bearings are Rod bearings, and Main bearings are Main bearings... it doesn't really matter if the rods are going straight up and down or at a V angle. The casting of the block will determine this.. *shrug* 

Hmm, I'm still confused becuase I've read articles about the inline and Vee engines and how some engines are technically flat Vees and some are just flat, and i thought they said the difference was the bearing count...
EDIT: maybe I'm just tired or confused haha... what about flatplane and crossplane?


_Modified by VDub2625 at 2:07 AM 11-28-2009_


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## Das Borgen (Sep 10, 2008)

*FV-QR*

why does the 1.8T nevar lose?


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## dieselraver (Nov 11, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Das Borgen)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Das Borgen* »_why does the 1.8T nevar lose?

because it NEVA LOOZESSSS!


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## LuckyCharms (Apr 15, 2009)

*Re: (dieselraver)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dieselraver* »_can someone explain the difference between gasoline octanes and the significance on engines whether N/A turboed, supercharged, german, american, japanese etc. what would happen if you did not follow the automakers gasoline recommendation, other than knocking. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

Anybody correct me if I'm wrong, but this is how I understand it..
Octane ratings signify the fuel's resistance to detonate. (Detonation is when the air/fuel explode instead of burn.) When the fuel detonates, you get knocking/pinging. Higher compression engines (turbocharged/supercharged or otherwise performance engines) have a higher tendency to detonate due to the higher pressures that are reached in the cylinder. They also have advanced timing that sparks the fuel before the piston reaches TDC so there is maximum pressure on the piston when it starts it's downstroke. When detonation occurs, the fuel explodes too early and too suddenly putting too much pressure on the piston all at once and the force hits the piston instead of pushing it. That sudden force puts a lot of extra stress on the motor and can cause a lot of damage. That's why car companies recommend higher grade fuels for these types of engines. Where the engines are made have nothing to do with it. 
Like I said, this is just how I understand it.


_Modified by LuckyCharms at 1:18 AM 11-28-2009_


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## kylesprague (Sep 4, 2007)

Can i get an edumacated reason why not to call a wheel a rim? and not just a picture of a basketball rim vs a bike rim vs a wheel...an actual explanation?


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## Turq (Nov 9, 2001)

*Re: (kylesprague)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kylesprague* »_Can i get an edumacated reason why not to call a wheel a rim? and not just a picture of a basketball rim vs a bike rim vs a wheel...an actual explanation? 

http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/rim
http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/wheel


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## kylesprague (Sep 4, 2007)

*Re: (Turq)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Turq* »_
http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/rim
http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/wheel

that works








whenever my friends say RIMS i always roll my eyes and say they're called wheels. when they ask me whats the difference i always stumble on an answer. they think i'm a vortex snob.


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## Turq (Nov 9, 2001)

*Re: (kylesprague)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kylesprague* »_
that works








whenever my friends say RIMS i always roll my eyes and say they're called wheels. when they ask me whats the difference i always stumble on an answer. they think i'm a vortex snob.


I figured quoting the definitions would work the best, basically 'rim' tends to indicate the outer part of something, usually something round.


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## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (VDub2625)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VDub2625* »_Hmm, I'm still confused becuase I've read articles about the inline and Vee engines and how some engines are technically flat Vees and some are just flat, and i thought they said the difference was the bearing count...

I'm a bit rusty on this, but IIRC, it has to do with siamesed rod bearings and separate rod bearings. In a V, the bearings have to be siamesed at an angle to maintain firing order. In a flat engine, they are run separately from each other. A V6 has four main bearings, a flat six has seven.
Yikes, don't take that as gospel, but there is some element of truth to it.


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## thebigmacd (Aug 17, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (abawp)*


_Quote, originally posted by *abawp* »_Lets talk variable displacement motors for a moment. They work by shutting off certain injectors to save fuel, right? Wouldn't this cause an excessivly lean condition in the exhaust, causing the EGT to skyrocket? I couldn't imagine that being too good for the tubing, or is this a moot point?

Cylinder Shut-off technology actually shuts the valves too, so no air passes through the unused cylinders. Even without considering the O2 reading problem, if the valves were kept open, the unused cylinders would absorb quite a bit of energy pumping air through, which would make the whole exercise pointless. So they just shut the valves.
Even the old late 70s Cadillac V8-6-4 had a mechanical system to shut off the valves and it actually worked reliably. Those systems were a failure because of the analog computer used, but the shutoff machanics was actually reliable.


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## Fisherson (Dec 22, 2008)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask...*

Wow. Edit for being a moron. Didn't realize how long this thread was.
Why don't Americans order more cars instead of buying what's on the lot?
I can wait.


_Modified by TheIllusionistD at 9:21 AM 11-28-2009_


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## bizybyker (May 25, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (TheIllusionistD)*

Who buys new cars? Used FTW.


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## Knock Sensor (Jan 29, 2009)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (TheIllusionistD)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheIllusionistD* »_Wow. Edit for being a moron. Didn't realize how long this thread was.
Why don't Americans order more cars instead of buying what's on the lot?
I can wait.

_Modified by TheIllusionistD at 9:21 AM 11-28-2009_

Because they want it now. That and some if not most dealers frown on ordering a car when they could persuade you into a car on their lot.


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## autoxmack (Dec 2, 2007)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (TheIllusionistD)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheIllusionistD* »_
Why don't Americans order more cars instead of buying what's on the lot?
I can wait.


Because the typical 'merican just doesn't care much about their car decisions (re: camcord 'appliances'.)


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## stacman (Mar 25, 2008)

*Re: (nourdmrolnmt1)*

Is it possible to take the heat lost from jake braking and convert it into energy which could be stored in a battery (for a heavy-duty commercial hybrid semi system, for example).
Also, WHY are diesels so loud? Is it not possible to muffle them?


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## IC AI (Aug 29, 2008)

*Re: (stacman)*

Why is the brake pedal higher than the accelerator, even at rest? It means that if you need to brake in an emergency, you first have to pull your foot all the way back before you can press the brake.


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## FlyingIan (Sep 4, 2007)

*Re: (stacman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stacman* »_Is it possible to take the heat lost from jake braking and convert it into energy which could be stored in a battery (for a heavy-duty commercial hybrid semi system, for example).
Also, WHY are diesels so loud? Is it not possible to muffle them?

Yes, however the energy one would get from that would be so minimal compared to the sheer amount needed to accelerate those truck that it is impractical with current technologies.


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## mk4living (Nov 16, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (VDub2625)*

not really car related but close.
kind of new here so... I only have one question. I always thought vwvortex was a vw website only. But i see alot of people here that dont drive vw's and owns diff. makes so is it a every car website or what?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *stacman* »_
Also, WHY are diesels so loud? Is it not possible to muffle them?


It's a high pressure explosion, much more then gas. The turbos of modern cars really quiet it down.


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## FlyingIan (Sep 4, 2007)

*Re: (IC AI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *IC AI* »_Why is the brake pedal higher than the accelerator, even at rest? It means that if you need to brake in an emergency, you first have to pull your foot all the way back before you can press the brake. 

1. The brake pedal needs a greatest displacement to create a mechanical advantage. 
2. Been proved safe for a long time now.
3. So you don't accelerate during hard braking situation.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *mk4living* »_not really car related but close.
kind of new here so... I only have one question. I always thought vwvortex was a vw website only. But i see alot of people here that dont drive vw's and owns diff. makes so is it a every car website or what?


The Vortex is. It's part of the Vortex media Group, though, which includes Subaru, Volvo (sorta), Ametur racing, Audi, Saab, BMW, Mazda, Motive Magazine (defunct), Kilometer Magazine (new mag), and finally The Car Lounge, the main forum we all use, that is accessible from all the other sites. Something like 90% of us access TCL via Vortex but it's by no means exclusive.
Your Vortex login will work on all those websites (except Swedespeed, it's part of the group but more separate for some reason). Pick whichever one you like the look of the most







You can access any forum and any topic from any entrance.


_Modified by VDub2625 at 6:15 PM 11-28-2009_


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## mk4living (Nov 16, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (VDub2625)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VDub2625* »_
The Vortex is. It's part of the Vortex media Group, though, which includes Subaru, Volvo (sorta), Ametur racing, Audi, Saab, BMW, Mazda, Motive Magazine (defunct), Kilometer Magazine (new mag), and finally The Car Lounge, the main forum we all use, that is accessible from all the other sites. Something like 90% of us access TCL via Vortex but it's by no means exclusive.
Your Vortex login will work on all those websites (except Swedespeed, it's part of the group but more separate for some reason). Pick whichever one you like the look of the most







You can access any forum and any topic from any entrance.

_Modified by VDub2625 at 6:15 PM 11-28-2009_

ooo ok thank you now i get it. now would you know why i cant say one thing good about vw and not get **** on by 20 people? do vw owners do the same?its annoying


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*FV-QR*

Becuase most people in TCL are former VW owners who have moved on becuase of bad experiences


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## mk4living (Nov 16, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (VDub2625)*

good enough thank you.


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## 93JC (Jul 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (VDub2625)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VDub2625* »_
Hmm, I'm still confused becuase I've read articles about the inline and Vee engines and how some engines are technically flat Vees and some are just flat, and i thought they said the difference was the bearing count...
EDIT: maybe I'm just tired or confused haha... what about flatplane and crossplane?


There's a lot of mixed terminology when talking about flat engines. In general there are two subsets of flat engines: "180° vees" and "boxers".
180° vees use crankshafts similar to vee engines, in that opposing pistons share a single crank journal. For example in a typical V8, if you looked at it from above and were to number the cylinders like this:
8 - 7
6 - 5
4 - 3
2 - 1
Those pairs actually share a journal, thus the engine has three or five main bearings. (Three between the four pairs of cylinders, and nowadays often an extra pair at the ends of the crankshaft).
Why do manufacturers do this? Less crank journals means less machining on both the crankshaft and the engine block. It's less expensive to do it this way. Also, when using a cross-plane crankshaft and a well-sorted firing sequence, a 90° vee will have NO extra vibrations. That's a _huge_ advantage to a fairly complex rotating mechanism.
But what the hell is a cross-plane engine? Whats the difference between cross-plane and flat-plane?
The plane in the name is referring to how you'd view the crankshaft throws if you looked at the shaft on end. Cross-plane means it looks like a cross. If the 1-2 journal is at 0° on a circle, 3-4's tends to be at 90°, 5-6 at 270°, and 7-8 at 180°. Like this:
1-2
|
5-6 ---- 3-4
|
7-8
Cadillac developed this crankshaft layout in the '20s. Like I said earlier, it eliminates vibrations. Almost every roadgoing V8 has used this type of crank ever since, because it's that much smoother.
Flat-plane cranks have the journals on a single plane. If 1-2 is at 0°, 3-4 and 5-6 are usually at 180° and 7-8 at 0°.
1-2 & 7-8
|
|
|
3-4 & 5-6
Why use a flat-plane crank if cross-plane is smoother? Cross-plane cranks have relatively large counterweights to quell those pesky vibrations, which makes them heavy compared to flat-plane cranks. Consequently flat-plane crank vee engines, V8s in particular since that's the example I presented, can rev _much_ higher than cross-plane. Ferrari, Lotus and TVR use(d) flat-plane V8s for this reason. The faster you can make an engine revolve, the more power it will make. 
As a result of the extra inherent vibrations the flat-plane V8s tend to have balancing shafts to deal with it, and tend to be of very small displacement (Ferrari's biggest V8 is 4.5 L, versus, say, Cadillac's old 8.2 L...).
Going back to the original question of "what's the diff between 180° vee and boxer?", 180° vee engines have the cylinders opposed on the horizontal plane, splayed as wide as possible, but retain those shared crank journals. When cylinder 1 is at TDC, cylinder 2 is at BDC and vice-versa.
In a boxer engine, every piston has its own crank throw, and they're opposite each other. So when cylinder 1 is at TDC, so is 2. In a four-cylinder of this arrangement it looks like a pair of boxers exchanging blows from above.


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## IC AI (Aug 29, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (mk4living)*

Someone posted an explanation of why it's so hard to break the 200mph speed, and I can't find it any more. Something about the fact that with the standard car design, you need more power = more weight = a good part of the power you add just goes into supporting all the hardware and weight needed to add that power. 
I can't find it any more. Thanks for any pointers.


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## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (IC AI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *IC AI* »_Someone posted an explanation of why it's so hard to break the 200mph speed, and I can't find it any more. Something about the fact that with the standard car design, you need more power = more weight = a good part of the power you add just goes into supporting all the hardware and weight needed to add that power. 
I can't find it any more. Thanks for any pointers. 

This is off the top of my head. As speed increased, wind resistance works as the square of the speed. So you need mor and more power just to counteract wind resistance. 
Lets say you are driving at 10 mph, and the wind resistance at that speed is X. Now lets say you double your speed to 20 mph. The wind resistance at that speed it (X^2). If you double the speed to 40 mph, the wind resistance would be ((X^2)^2) or X^4. If you double that again to 80 mph, the Wind Resistance is at X^8. See how you need tons of power to counteract the wind resistance at high speeds? At lower speeds wind resistance doesn't mean much.
Then there are several other secondary factors, like weight. The more power you need, the more mass you need to handle that power (bigger block/ connecting rods/ brakes/etc). Weight in and of itself isn't really detrimental to top speed though, just how fast you can get there. 
Another big issue is down force. The higher your speed, the more effort needs to go into keeping the car on the ground. That's where wings/spoilers come into play. But when you have those kind of aero device, drag is increased on the car (raising wind resistance), and the downforce essentially adds weight to the car at high speeds.


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## T-Boner (Sep 27, 2009)

*Re: (FlyingIan)*

If all the world's vehicles were hydrogen powered, would the average air humidity levels rise globally?


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## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *T-Boner* »_If all the world's vehicles were hydrogen powered, would the average air humidity levels rise globally?



I guess it would depend on the source of the hydrogen. If it were obtained by hydrolysis (splitting water), then there would be no net change. In the car the hydrogen would be recombined with O2 to form water. 
If the hydrogen was obtained from natural gas (the most economical method right now), then the humidity would rise.
*But* all gasoline combustion creates water now (the Hydrogen from the gas molecules combine with the O2 to create water). So the net effect of humidity in the air would be negligible compared to what is going on right now.
On a related note, water vapor is the most effective greenhouse gas that there is, but we concentrate on regulating CO2 because we can't do a damn thing about water vapor.


----------



## TetsuoShima (Nov 30, 2008)

I have one.
I know about far cans and stuff...well at least I think I do...Just a giant muffler attached to the stock exhaust system right? But what's a cat delete...I'm assuming you're getting rid of the catalytic converter, and if so, what does that do in terms of sound? Performance? Also what do you guys mean when you talk about straight pipes?
Ugh thank god for this thread lol.


----------



## overst33r (Jul 18, 2006)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *TetsuoShima* »_I have one.
I know about far cans and stuff...well at least I think I do...Just a giant muffler attached to the stock exhaust system right? But what's a cat delete...I'm assuming you're getting rid of the catalytic converter, and if so, what does that do in terms of sound? Performance? Also what do you guys mean when you talk about straight pipes?
Ugh thank god for this thread lol.


AFAIK, a cat delete is the removal of the catalytic converter.
It makes it louder because the sound has less obstruction to get to the tail pipe.
You gain performance because of the increase in exhaust velocity/lower backpressure.
Straight pipes in my mind, are connected directly to the exhaust manifold(s) and dump into the atmosphere, with nothing in between.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *TetsuoShima* »_I have one.
I know about far cans and stuff...well at least I think I do...Just a giant muffler attached to the stock exhaust system right? But what's a cat delete...I'm assuming you're getting rid of the catalytic converter, and if so, what does that do in terms of sound? Performance? Also what do you guys mean when you talk about straight pipes?
Ugh thank god for this thread lol.


Fart cans are generally bigger, badly-tuned mufflers but they can be small too. it's just a muffler that makes a terrible noise, by design.
Cat delete=removing the cat. It can help with exhaust flow, and gains 1-2hp. it's not really worth it unless you're builfing up a racecar. Street cars get nearly zero benefit nowadays from cat deletes. And yes, that's a straight pipe (though straight pipe can also refer to a muffler-less car sometimes).


----------



## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

If getting there is half the fun, then what is the other half?


----------



## MyBlueR32Turbo (Oct 26, 2006)

*Re: (BRealistic)*

getting back home lol


----------



## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

*Re: (BRealistic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BRealistic* »_If getting there is half the fun, then what is the other half?

Agony


----------



## mk4living (Nov 16, 2009)

*Re: (DarthVader)*

What does it mean to chirp a gear? skip it?


----------



## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

*Re: (mk4living)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mk4living* »_What does it mean to chirp a gear? skip it?


When the tires "chirp" as you engage said gear in a manual transmission vehicle under heavy throttle (a power/traction/clutch thing).
It's a joke around here due to some comments made by somebody.


----------



## dentinger (Nov 20, 2007)

*Re: (mk4living)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mk4living* »_What does it mean to chirp a gear? skip it?

when shifting, you shift hard, and the tires "chirp" as you shift into the next gear.


----------



## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

*Re: (dentinger)*

Chirping video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GJCvrmgqs5Q&fmt=18


----------



## mk4living (Nov 16, 2009)

*Re: (adrew)*

ohh didn't know it was called chirping thank you.


----------



## Chmeeee (Jun 24, 2002)

*Re: (mk4living)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mk4living* »_ohh didn't know it was called chirping thank you.

Burt Reynolds chirps second at the 32 second mark:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZZPalUHlxc


----------



## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

*Re: (dentinger)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dentinger* »_
when shifting, you shift hard, and the tires "chirp" as you shift into the next gear.

Dang. Why do I always take like three times the words needed to say things?


----------



## derock85z (Aug 25, 2009)

*Re: (BRealistic)*

i buddy of mine was talking about how some porsche engines (v8 i believe) are dual plane.... explain?
and he wasnt talking about dual plane intake manifolds...


----------



## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

My tranmission fluid has never been changed (5-speed). Will anything severe happen to the transmission if I change it or don't change it?
Why does the rear of the car squat when the e-brake is engaged? Do all cars with hand-brakes do this?
Will 16" steelies fit over MkIV R32 brakes?


----------



## e30_miata_lowerit (Dec 12, 2009)

*Re: (DonPatrizio)*









Purpose of these holes?


----------



## Soze.K (Mar 15, 2009)

Where can i purchase high performance muffler bearings?
Also, i need to replace the piston return spring. where can i locate that on a 1.8T?


----------



## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

This thread should be bumped, as well as this thread because of the mysterious influx of newcomers with vehicle relate inquiries. Perhaps make it a sticky even?


----------



## Projekt R32 (Jun 2, 2008)

*Re: (DonPatrizio)*

Is it right to assume that a Toureg is broken down when I see one not driving?
Are all new FJ's, Porta-Potties, or just the blue ones


----------



## TetsuoShima (Nov 30, 2008)

*Re: (DonPatrizio)*

Awesome, forgot about this thread.
What are these handle-like things on track-prepped cars I keep seeing with an arrow pointing to it?


----------



## Projekt R32 (Jun 2, 2008)

*Re: (TetsuoShima)*

^ tow hook


----------



## TetsuoShima (Nov 30, 2008)

*Re: (slimmy420)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slimmy420* »_^ tow hook









don't know why that never occured to me lol.


----------



## Al_ (May 9, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (VDub2625)*

Inside of a cylinder, it the air going through more of an isothermal or adiabatic thermodynamic change? I know that it is not exactly one or the other, but somewhere in between. Which one is it closer too?


----------



## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Thinking of tow hooks... Why can't manufacturers that produce FWD cars find a place to put a tow hook on the front? Even if it's hidden somewhere, it would be so much better than almost tearing off a control arm.


----------



## dentinger (Nov 20, 2007)

*Re: (e30_miata_lowerit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *e30_miata_lowerit* »_








Purpose of these holes? 

for drag racing. it reduces drag on the bumper. if you could imagine the inside of the bumper, it would look like a giant scoop, which in turn, causes drag.


----------



## dentinger (Nov 20, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (efrie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *efrie* »_Thinking of tow hooks... Why can't manufacturers that produce FWD cars find a place to put a tow hook on the front? Even if it's hidden somewhere, it would be so much better than almost tearing off a control arm.

my mazda3 has on under the passenger side headlight. stock. i just pop the small plasitc piece out, and screw in the supplied tow hook.
i rock mine every winter for ****s and giggles (comes with the car!







)


----------



## mike_A3 (Jun 30, 2008)

My A3 had one, my C230 had one, my TL has one.


----------



## mike_A3 (Jun 30, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (NicholasJay)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NicholasJay* »_
This is off the top of my head. As speed increased, wind resistance works as the square of the speed. So you need mor and more power just to counteract wind resistance. 
Lets say you are driving at 10 mph, and the wind resistance at that speed is X. Now lets say you double your speed to 20 mph. The wind resistance at that speed it (X^2). If you double the speed to 40 mph, the wind resistance would be ((X^2)^2) or X^4. If you double that again to 80 mph, the Wind Resistance is at X^8. See how you need tons of power to counteract the wind resistance at high speeds? At lower speeds wind resistance doesn't mean much.


Your order of operations is wrong. if you are driving 10 mph your speed is V=10, if your drag force is X then X is proportional to 10^2, or 100.
then if you go 20 your drag force is proportional to 20^2 or 4 times 10^2.
(10*2)^2 = 10^2 * 2^2 = 10^2 * 4.
So your logic is right, but your math is wrong. Its 10^2 * 4 not (10^2)^2.
Now the power it takes to overcome drag is a function of velocity ^3. So if you double speed, the power required is 8 times greater. So to hit 200 miles per hour you have to be only using 1/8 of your available power at 100 miles per hour.
So if a veyron can go 256 mph, with 1001 horsepower. It uses 1/8 of its power at half speed (129 MPH), so only 125 horsepower at 129 MPH.
Retard Engineer Check, 1998 Honda civic is about the frontal area of a veyron, has about 125 horsepower, and can go about 129 MPH. This is looking about right.
Cars need sooo much power to get to 200, the weight is not an issue, who cares if it takes a long time to get there?
Its all about the cubed velocity.


----------



## Stromaluski (Jun 15, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (efrie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *efrie* »_Thinking of tow hooks... Why can't manufacturers that produce FWD cars find a place to put a tow hook on the front? Even if it's hidden somewhere, it would be so much better than almost tearing off a control arm.

On mk2's, the tow hooks are part of the rebar for the front bumper?


----------



## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

I test drove a Ranger XL and it lacked enough leg and headroom.
I then test drove a Ranger XLT and it was the exact same damn size.
Shouldn't the XLT be better suited for taller drivers than the regular XL?
If only they made a 2XL or 3XL Ranger.....


----------



## Mechorg (Sep 25, 2003)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *BRealistic* »_I test drove a Ranger XL and it lacked enough leg and headroom.
I then test drove a Ranger XLT and it was the exact same damn size.
Shouldn't the XLT be better suited for taller drivers than the regular XL?
If only they made a 2XL or 3XL Ranger.....


And a Smart Fourtwo XS?


----------



## enzo1187 (Jun 1, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (mike_A3)*

Not sure if anyone asked this yet, but could someone give me an in depth explanation of straight cut gears and how they differ from a normal manual transmission?


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (enzo1187)*

They aren't French.
That is less of a snide post that it seems - the modern helical gear was invented by Mde et Msr Citroen in the effort to produce a quieter, easier to shift transmission for their budding luxobarge line.


----------



## Mr Niceguy (Jul 10, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (atomicalex)*

aren't straight cut gears like this
_
_
_
and helical ones are more like
/
/
/
??


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Mr Niceguy)*

In most normal modern transmissions, forward gears are all helical (diagonal) cut, while reverse is straight cut. Listen for the whine inn reverse. Imagine that was alwasy present going forward








Straight cut gears are stronger and transfer torque more directly I believe, which is why they are perferred in high power off-street applications.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (efrie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *efrie* »_Thinking of tow hooks... Why can't manufacturers that produce FWD cars find a place to put a tow hook on the front? Even if it's hidden somewhere, it would be so much better than almost tearing off a control arm.

THey do. In fact I think they're legally required. My VW Mk2 had 2 front and 2 rear but a lot of manufacturers only put one. Modern cars have them hidden under a cover and require you to screw the hook in yourself. Most tow truck drivers could give a crap less and just strap to the ctrl arm.


----------



## G0to60 (Jun 23, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Mr Niceguy)*

I believe that helical gears are more like this
\ /
| |
Where straight cut gears are like this:
| |
| |
The staight cut gears have more surface area contact so they're able to handle more power but it's noisy and harder to get into gear then the helical.


----------



## enzo1187 (Jun 1, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (G0to60)*

Great explanations, thanks. I always thought it would be humorous to equip some straight cut gears to a street car. Imagine screaming down the road in lets say an e36 or old 911...the reactions would be priceless


----------



## Twistedsix (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (arozanski)*

while sitting at a RR crossing waiting for this long train to pass i noticed on each car was painted in big white letters Do Not Hump i laughed but really what does this refer to?


----------



## SuperleggeraVW (Jan 28, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (VDub2625)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VDub2625* »_In most normal modern transmissions, forward gears are all helical (diagonal) cut, while reverse is straight cut. Listen for the whine inn reverse. Imagine that was alwasy present going forward








Straight cut gears are stronger and transfer torque more directly I believe, which is why they are perferred in high power off-street applications.

Well technically helical gears are stronger because they can take more torque. In reality though, gears are subject to other forces too. A gearbox with straight cut gears is stronger because it can take more abuse ei. hard launches, hard gear changes etc. It also applies even pressure on bearing(?) so it doesn't stress the part as much.


----------



## passaturge (Oct 10, 2001)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (Twistedsix)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Twistedsix* »_while sitting at a RR crossing waiting for this long train to pass i noticed on each car was painted in big white letters Do Not Hump i laughed but really what does this refer to?

http://www.iowastatedaily.com/...2.txt


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (SuperleggeraVW)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SuperleggeraVW* »_
Well technically helical gears are stronger because they can take more torque. In reality though, gears are subject to other forces too. A gearbox with straight cut gears is stronger because it can take more abuse ei. hard launches, hard gear changes etc. It also applies even pressure on bearing(?) so it doesn't stress the part as much.

That was what I was thinking though I couldn't say it quite so siuccinctly







but why are helical stronger? becuase they defer the load to the bearing instead of taking it directly?


----------



## enzo1187 (Jun 1, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (VDub2625)*

One more question, could someone explain ROZAP?


----------



## Twistedsix (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (passaturge)*


_Quote, originally posted by *passaturge* »_
http://www.iowastatedaily.com/...2.txt

that was fast. u sir get a







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 315061 (Feb 22, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (enzo1187)*


_Quote, originally posted by *enzo1187* »_One more question, could someone explain ROZAP?









I'm sure you're familiar with when people in TCL jump on a repost? Multiple users chime in with 
R
E
P
O
S
T
Well... one day the spelling got a little fubar and it came out ROZAP. And thus... a new meme was born.


----------



## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (enzo1187)*


_Quote, originally posted by *enzo1187* »_One more question, could someone explain ROZAP?









It's the ancient mating call of the inside joke lemming.


----------



## pueblorrado v3.0 (Nov 22, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (VDub2625)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VDub2625* »_
That was what I was thinking though I couldn't say it quite so siuccinctly







but why are helical stronger? becuase they defer the load to the bearing instead of taking it directly?

It is because the "tooth" on a helical gear provides more surface area, so the stresses on the teeth are less than they would be otherwise. 
The shortcoming is that since they are angled, they try to slide across one another, causing the shaft to press to one end. usually the direction of the helix will be alternating, or have some right and some left to try and even the forces and wear. this is why consistent end-play on the shafts is so important.


----------



## Stromaluski (Jun 15, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (enzo1187)*


_Quote, originally posted by *enzo1187* »_Not sure if anyone asked this yet, but could someone give me an in depth explanation of straight cut gears and how they differ from a normal manual transmission?

http://www.askautoinfo.com/dis....html


----------



## FiveAinOne (Oct 5, 2000)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (enriquejcu)*


_Quote, originally posted by *enriquejcu* »_here's one:
Do they really need to post "No Passing" signs on roads with a double yellow center line?

You'd be surprised. I have a friend that thinks its okay to exit out a carpool lane with quad yellow lines. He said that white line besides the yellow means he could exit anytime.


----------



## the_toad (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (FiveAinOne)*

Why do they call it a fox body mustang? do the other bodies have names?


----------



## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (the_toad)*


_Quote, originally posted by *the_toad* »_Why do they call it a fox body mustang? do the other bodies have names?

It's on the Ford Fox platform.
The Ford Fox platform has been slangified into "Fox body" over the years.
Just like your NB is on the Volkswagen Group A platform.
It's an A body Beetle.


----------



## RottyB5A2 (Apr 19, 2005)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (BRealistic)*

Possibly related:
1) Why in movies (especially older movies) do they never move the column shift lever out of park when they are purportedly driving? 
2) An ex gf (stereotypical blonde) says "hmph, that's f'n ridiculous, who would put that sign up? Haaa, how can a dougnut pass me?" The sign read: Do Not
Pass
How do these people get licensed? 
3) Why does one car maker start a trend (ie Bangle taillights) and they all follow suit?


----------



## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (RottyB5A2)*

If you lower a car with a panhard bar and it pushes the wheels to the left of center, could you in theory cut the panhard bar and reweld it to the appropriate length rather than getting an adjustable panhard bar? 


_Modified by iDance at 2:50 AM 3-27-2010_


----------



## BrianC (Feb 16, 1999)

Why do so many car ads show the car on a bridge? Does this somehow make the car more appealing?


----------



## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (the_toad)*


_Quote, originally posted by *the_toad* »_Why do they call it a fox body mustang? do the other bodies have names?

There is the S95 and New Edge, both of which are still Fox chasses. There is also the new S197 chassis (05-13) and the 2010-13 hasn't received a special name yet to differentiate it from the 05-09 cars.


----------



## dentinger (Nov 20, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (enzo1187)*


_Quote, originally posted by *enzo1187* »_Great explanations, thanks. I always thought it would be humorous to equip some straight cut gears to a street car. Imagine screaming down the road in lets say an e36 or old 911...the reactions would be priceless









yes yes, this would be fun to hear day in and day out....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dmJH84FnQa8


----------



## 93JC (Jul 24, 2008)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (RottyB5A2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RottyB5A2* »_Possibly related:
1) Why in movies (especially older movies) do they never move the column shift lever out of park when they are purportedly driving? 


They're in a prop car whose shift lever probably doesn't even move.
If you mean pre-1960 movies, they very well may be in 2nd gear.


----------



## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

The new 458 Italia is naturally aspirated, so why does it have the three tailpipe look à la F40?








Also, I've never changed the transmission fluid in my 5-speed. Should it have been?


----------



## dieselraver (Nov 11, 2007)

why do you drive on a parkway and park in a driveway?


----------



## a3lad (Aug 6, 2005)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *pueblorrado v3.0* »_
this is why consistent end-play on the shafts is so important. 


i would not wish inconsistent end play on the shaft even on my worst enemy.


----------



## PsyberVW (Jul 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (atomicalex)*


_Quote, originally posted by *atomicalex* »_They aren't French.
That is less of a snide post that it seems - the modern helical gear was invented by Mde et Msr Citroen in the effort to produce a quieter, easier to shift transmission for their budding luxobarge line.

And here I thought you were making a reference to French Miter Cut Gears


----------



## lolaccountislocked2 (Mar 16, 2010)

Can I simply swap the 2.0 engine in my golf for a VR6 or do I also have to swap the transmission/swap other things?
Same question for 1.8T as well.


----------



## PsyberVW (Jul 10, 2000)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (FiveAinOne)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FiveAinOne* »_
You'd be surprised. I have a friend that thinks its okay to exit out a carpool lane with quad yellow lines. He said that white line besides the yellow means he could exit anytime.









Please correct him, immediately.









_Quote »_Carpool Lanes And Onramps 
A carpool lane is a special freeway lane only for buses and/or carpools. You may use a carpool lane or onramp if your vehicle carries the minimum number of people required for the carpool lane or you drive a low-emission vehicle displaying a special DMV-issued decal. Motorcycle riders may use designated carpool lanes, unless otherwise posted.
Signs at the onramp or along the freeway tell you the minimum number of people required for the carpool and the hours the carpool requirement applies. The pavement in this lane is marked with a diamond symbol (◊) and the words "Carpool Lane." These lanes are also known as high-occupancy vehicle (HOV) lanes. Do not cross over double parallel solid lines to enter or exit any carpool lane except at designated entry or exit places.
Vehicles towing trailers are typically not allowed to use carpool lanes because they must drive more slowly and are usually restricted to the right-hand lane.


http://test-www.dmv.ca.gov/pub...5.htm


----------



## seizlac (Oct 28, 2008)

heres my question.
so im driving on the highway. cruize control on, whats gonna happen if i push in the clutch. will it just disengage and stay at whatever rpm. or will it do the same as if i hit the brakes...?


----------



## rsj0714 (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (seizlac)*


_Quote, originally posted by *seizlac* »_heres my question.
so im driving on the highway. cruize control on, whats gonna happen if i push in the clutch. will it just disengage and stay at whatever rpm. or will it do the same as if i hit the brakes...?

I would think it would disengage the transmission and you would slowly start to slow down


----------



## dieselraver (Nov 11, 2007)

*Re: (seizlac)*


_Quote, originally posted by *seizlac* »_heres my question.
so im driving on the highway. cruize control on, whats gonna happen if i push in the clutch. will it just disengage and stay at whatever rpm. or will it do the same as if i hit the brakes...?

same as braking, the cruise disengages.
cool thing with the bmw, if you set the cruise to 80mph and you slow down to say 3rd gear (speed is relative) and then hit the resume button, and your car doesn't have enough torque to go, it chimes and displays a shift up icon on the console http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## IC AI (Aug 29, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (monkeytronic)*

In a Passat 2.0T, what lubricates the turbo? Is it the oil system that goes through the rest of the engine? (I was very low on oil recently, for some reason, and I wondered whether that might have caused damage).


----------



## Buickboy92 (Sep 5, 2009)

Does anybody know if it is possible to import a New Land Rover Defender to the US permanently?


----------



## elevine17 (Sep 2, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Buickboy92* »_Does anybody know if it is possible to import a New Land Rover Defender to the US permanently? 


Pretty unlikely. I dont know details but the odds are unless its 25(15) years old, it is too much of a hassle to import it


----------



## dunhamjr (May 21, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (IC AI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *IC AI* »_In a Passat 2.0T, what lubricates the turbo? Is it the oil system that goes through the rest of the engine? (I was very low on oil recently, for some reason, and I wondered whether that might have caused damage). 

pretty positive its just plain engine oil, just like the rest of the engine.


----------



## IC AI (Aug 29, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (dunhamjr)*

This might be in the manual... In an '08 Passat, what happens if I hit the e-brake button while going 30mph? Will it brake anyway?


----------



## dento gt (Feb 10, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (IC AI)*

Why is it a motorcycle can have a good sounding, high revving 4 banger yet almost every honda with a modified exhaust sounds like a nest of angry bees?
On a simlar note, why is it that two engines of similar dispalcement and configurations sound so different. For example, lets say a 5.7 Hemi and a 5.7 LSx are both set up through the same exahaust set up, for arguements sake headers, catless, 3" into to a pair of magnaflow mufflers, why will they sound different?


----------



## JMTombstone (Jan 21, 2008)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dieselraver* »_why do you drive on a parkway and park in a driveway? 


And why isn't everyone high on a highway?


----------



## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (dento gt)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dento gt* »_On a simlar note, why is it that two engines of similar dispalcement and configurations sound so different. For example, lets say a 5.7 Hemi and a 5.7 LSx are both set up through the same exahaust set up, for arguements sake headers, catless, 3" into to a pair of magnaflow mufflers, why will they sound different? 

I believe the firing order of the LSx engines is different than most other cross-plane V8s.


----------



## Denniswhat (Sep 12, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (dento gt)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dento gt* »_Why is it a motorcycle can have a good sounding, high revving 4 banger yet almost every honda with a modified exhaust sounds like a nest of angry bees?

Because the bore and stoke is very very small in comparison to a car's.

_Quote, originally posted by *dento gt* »_
On a simlar note, why is it that two engines of similar dispalcement and configurations sound so different. For example, lets say a 5.7 Hemi and a 5.7 LSx are both set up through the same exahaust set up, for arguements sake headers, catless, 3" into to a pair of magnaflow mufflers, why will they sound different? 

Head design plays a huge part in that. The heads of a hemi is far different than the head design of a cathedral type head.


----------



## gtiguy12 (May 22, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (IC AI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *IC AI* »_This might be in the manual... In an '08 Passat, what happens if I hit the e-brake button while going 30mph? Will it brake anyway?
 It will activate the abs, similar to a panic stop, then engage the parking brake when stopped. It's not that fun.


----------



## Tornado2dr (Mar 31, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (gtiguy12)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtiguy12* »_ It will activate the abs, similar to a panic stop, then engage the parking brake when stopped. It's not that fun.

That actually sounds like a LOT of fun.


----------



## sticky euro (Nov 23, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtiguy12* »_ It will activate the abs, similar to a panic stop, then engage the parking brake when stopped. It's not that fun.


What I don't get it how you'd have the presence of mind to reach for a button like on the newer passats. If you had an actual handle e-brake it would make sense. I don't know, reaching for a button in a panic just doesn't seem like it would be my first instinct


----------



## gtiguy12 (May 22, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (sticky euro)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sticky euro* »_
What I don't get it how you'd have the presence of mind to reach for a button like on the newer passats. If you had an actual handle e-brake it would make sense. I don't know, reaching for a button in a panic just doesn't seem like it would be my first instinct
 Having the button on the drivers outer side makes it great when you are pushing a passat while steering from outside, you don't have to lean in the car to set the parking brake when you want to stop.


----------



## dunhamjr (May 21, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (dento gt)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dento gt* »_Why is it a motorcycle can have a good sounding, high revving 4 banger yet almost every honda with a modified exhaust sounds like a nest of angry bees?


many 'tuner' hondas do not have a properly tuned exhaust, so the note coming out of them is all wrong.


----------



## Der Audidude (May 12, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (dunhamjr)*

I'm glad this thread is back up to the top as I got a real dumb one. I'd rather ask here than in the MKV forums so as to get an actual answer.
My GTI won't ding at me when I leave the headlights on. I've been through the MFA/manual and see nothing about it. I originally thought this was fine, until I accidentally left them on all day at work and needed a jump last week. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
TIA!


----------



## gtiguy12 (May 22, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (Der Audidude)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Der Audidude* »_I'm glad this thread is back up to the top as I got a real dumb one. I'd rather ask here than in the MKV forums so as to get an actual answer.
My GTI won't ding at me when I leave the headlights on. I've been through the MFA/manual and see nothing about it. I originally thought this was fine, until I accidentally left them on all day at work and needed a jump last week. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
TIA!








 Do the dome light's come on when you open the door? It could be a bad microswitch in the drivers door latch, or a defective buzzer in the instrument cluster, or a coding issue in the cluster.


----------



## Der Audidude (May 12, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (gtiguy12)*

My floor lights come on when I open the door. I usually hate the dome light so I have that switched off when I open the door.


----------



## IC AI (Aug 29, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (gtiguy12)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtiguy12* »_ Having the button on the drivers outer side makes it great when you are pushing a passat while steering from outside, you don't have to lean in the car to set the parking brake when you want to stop.

??
If you are pushing the car, it's probably because your battery is out (among other things). Since the e-brake requires a battery, pushing the button won't make a difference, I would think?
I pushed the button going about 7-8 mph, and boy did it stop over a short distance. My ABS is definitely working.


----------



## Mr Messy (Apr 1, 2009)

*Re: (DonPatrizio)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DonPatrizio* »_The new 458 Italia is naturally aspirated, so why does it have the three tailpipe look à la F40?








Also, I've never changed the transmission fluid in my 5-speed. Should it have been?

Like many performance cars, the 458 has a bimodal exhaust that changes behaviour in "sport" mode or with wide open throttle applications.
458 uses the centre outlet (which has more mufflement) to creep around town, and the outer pipes (which flow more freely) for hoonage.
The F40's centre pipe was for the wastegate, and outer pipes for engine exhaust.


----------



## gtiguy12 (May 22, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (IC AI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *IC AI* »_
??
If you are pushing the car, it's probably because your battery is out (among other things). Since the e-brake requires a battery, pushing the button won't make a difference, I would think?
I pushed the button going about 7-8 mph, and boy did it stop over a short distance. My ABS is definitely working. 
 I used to work for the local vw dealer here. we pushed car's for many reasons, mostly waiting for parts when the car is semi-disassembled. If the battery is dead, typically we jump the car and just drive it into the stall. We don't push cars that drive.


----------



## el.zuriel (Apr 21, 2009)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (craigsaid)*

*Acronym	Definition* 
BUMP Bring Up My Post (messaging/BBSs)
BUMP Boston University Marine Program
BUMP Baby Under Manufacturing Process (maternity company; Los Angeles, CA)
BUMP Benthic Untethered Multipurpose Platform
BUMP Black Upwardly Mobile Professional
BUMP Boston Urban Music Project (Boston, MA)


----------



## Jettin2Class (Jun 26, 2002)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (el.zuriel)*

If I habitually fart into the seat, could it possibly unleash its fury on an unsuspecting passenger?


----------



## nix6speed (Jan 25, 2008)

*Re: go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask... (RottyB5A2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RottyB5A2* »_
2) An ex gf (stereotypical blonde) says "hmph, that's f'n ridiculous, who would put that sign up? Haaa, how can a dougnut pass me?" The sign read: Do Not
Pass
How do these people get licensed?

Thank you for the Coke now sprayed all over my keyboard!


----------



## nosrednug (Nov 14, 2007)

I am bumping this thread to subscribe to it, cause I'm sick of searching for it and I can't think of a good question to ask.


----------



## IC AI (Aug 29, 2008)

*Re: (DonPatrizio)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DonPatrizio* »_The new 458 Italia is naturally aspirated, so why does it have the three tailpipe look à la F40?










Wow, it's like Sid the ground sloth!


----------



## DubNMiatafan (Feb 13, 2009)

*Re: (seizlac)*


_Quote, originally posted by *seizlac* »_heres my question.
so im driving on the highway. cruize control on, whats gonna happen if i push in the clutch. will it just disengage and stay at whatever rpm. or will it do the same as if i hit the brakes...?
Mine goes to the rev limiter...dumb I know. And don't try setting cruise control in neutral either.... *BANG* *BANG* *BANG* *BANG*


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

*Re: (IC AI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *IC AI* »_Wow, it's (the 458 Italia) like Sid the ground sloth!

Ahahahahahahahahahahahahah!!! That's even better than when I said the new Camaro looked like Sam the Eagle! Well done! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## VWestlife (Sep 29, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (elevine17)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elevine17* »_Pretty unlikely. I dont know details but the odds are unless its 25(15) years old, it is too much of a hassle to import it

No need to import one: U.S. spec Defenders were sold here from 1989 to 1997. They are rare and pricey, though.


----------



## VWestlife (Sep 29, 2004)

*Re: (seizlac)*


_Quote, originally posted by *seizlac* »_heres my question.
so im driving on the highway. cruize control on, whats gonna happen if i push in the clutch. will it just disengage and stay at whatever rpm. or will it do the same as if i hit the brakes...?

Any manual transmission vehicle should disengage the cruise control when the brake or clutch are depressed. The only way it would not disengage and rev up the engine is if you shift to neutral without pushing the clutch, or if you try to engage the cruise while coasting in neutral.


----------



## kristijonazz (Oct 9, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (Der Audidude)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Der Audidude* »_I'm glad this thread is back up to the top as I got a real dumb one. I'd rather ask here than in the MKV forums so as to get an actual answer.
My GTI won't ding at me when I leave the headlights on. I've been through the MFA/manual and see nothing about it. I originally thought this was fine, until I accidentally left them on all day at work and needed a jump last week. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
TIA!









hmm, that is pretty weird! Did you do anything to your car with VAGcom? 
Does it "ding" in other situations? Like when it tells you to fill up or put the seat belt?


----------



## VWVan (Feb 17, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (kristijonazz)*

Is it ever too late to change over to synthetic motor oil? Lets say if you have 150K miles on it.


----------



## dieselraver (Nov 11, 2007)

Can any of you recommend some good Subaru forums to visit? (mainly for the outbacks, not STI's)


----------



## VWVan (Feb 17, 2000)

*Re: (dieselraver)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dieselraver* »_Can any of you recommend some good Subaru forums to visit? (mainly for the outbacks, not STI's)

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/


----------



## SnowGTI2003 (Jan 8, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (VWVan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VWVan* »_Is it ever too late to change over to synthetic motor oil? Lets say if you have 150K miles on it.

Switching at that mileage is fine. However you might find a new oil leak or two when you do.
The better questions is "Why bother switching at that mileage?"


----------



## TheDarkEnergist (Aug 22, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *VWVan* »_Is it ever too late to change over to synthetic motor oil? Lets say if you have 150K miles on it.


There's no real answer to this question, at least I don't think so. 
Synthetic Vs. Conventional will be an eternal debate. However, you will probably see some different behavior as far as seals/gaskets are concerned. Sometimes a switch to synthetic will stress oil seals and you'll spring leaks like crazy. If your motor is in fairly good shape, there may not be a reason to switch.
So short answer "no" its never too late.
Long answer is...well...long. If you have no real reason to, you might as well stick with dinosaur goo.


----------



## gtivr4 (Sep 22, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (TheDarkEnergist)*

So I am new to Automatics and have some dumb questions:
1) Does my truck (97 Sonoma, 4l60e, 4 speed automatic) have an overdrive unit? Or just 4 forward speeds?
2) When accelerating, it will rev to 2k rpms and stay there, but accelerate. I assume its basically acting like a slipping clutch and allowing the transmission to catch up to the engine? Is 2k rpms the stall rate?


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (gtivr4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtivr4* »_So I am new to Automatics and have some dumb questions:
1) Does my truck (97 Sonoma, 4l60e, 4 speed automatic) have an overdrive unit? Or just 4 forward speeds?
2) When accelerating, it will rev to 2k rpms and stay there, but accelerate. I assume its basically acting like a slipping clutch and allowing the transmission to catch up to the engine? Is 2k rpms the stall rate?


1. I don't know for sure. But, 'overdrive unit' is a misnomer. Overdrive simply implies that a given gear ratio (usually the top gear, sometimes the top two) is a greater than 1:1 ratio. Meaning the output shaft will spin faster than the input shaft. One backyard way to find out is compare how fast the speedo needle climbs in comparison to the tach.
2. Usually when this is happening, the torque converter housing pressure is increasing. More fluid pressure inside the housing = more torque transfer from the compressor to the impeller. Hence, you'll see acceleration without engine speed change. You'll also notice the rpms drop as the torque converter engages the lockup clutch (if equipped).
The other possibility (less likely) is a clutch inside the transmission is actually slipping. This is usually something that doesn't happen 'on purpose', but can cause a similar effect.


----------



## dieselraver (Nov 11, 2007)

what car is this? bonus points for year and model #










_Modified by dieselraver at 2:15 PM 4-22-2010_


----------



## Preppy (May 3, 2001)

*Re: (dieselraver)*

Why do cars still run at 12V, and with accessories running off of a belt or chain?
Why can't cars have an engine + small generator @ 24V or higher, and run all anciliaries electrically? (i.e. A/C, steering pump, water pump, etc.)

?
Actually a serious question... is it a matter of cost and complexity? No real need?


----------



## kristijonazz (Oct 9, 2006)

*Re: (dieselraver)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dieselraver* »_what car is this? bonus points for year and model #

_Modified by dieselraver at 2:15 PM 4-22-2010_

Nissan Altima? 2008 or newer


----------



## VWVan (Feb 17, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (TheDarkEnergist)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheDarkEnergist* »_
There's no real answer to this question, at least I don't think so. 
Synthetic Vs. Conventional will be an eternal debate. However, you will probably see some different behavior as far as seals/gaskets are concerned. Sometimes a switch to synthetic will stress oil seals and you'll spring leaks like crazy. If your motor is in fairly good shape, there may not be a reason to switch.
So short answer "no" its never too late.
Long answer is...well...long. If you have no real reason to, you might as well stick with dinosaur goo.

This is what I thought, I already have a very small leak, just drips so I don't want to make it worse. The engine is in great shape so I'll probably stick with dino, and its pretty cheap anyways. 4.4 litres is usually $13-14 or so.


----------



## VWestlife (Sep 29, 2004)

*Re: (Preppy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Preppy* »_Why do cars still run at 12V, and with accessories running off of a belt or chain?
Why can't cars have an engine + small generator @ 24V or higher, and run all anciliaries electrically? (i.e. A/C, steering pump, water pump, etc.)

?
Actually a serious question... is it a matter of cost and complexity? No real need?

You could ask why doesn't North America upgrade its household AC power from 120 volts to 240 volts, to match Europe and Asia, and get the same answer: because the existing system is too well established, and because the costs would outweigh the benefits.
The upgrade of automotive electrical systems from 6 to 12 volts in the '50s and '60s went hand in hand with the upgrade from generators to alternators, leading to a large increase in efficiency and capacity. But if we upgraded from 12 volts to, say, 24 volts, the gains would not be nearly as large. Also, all 12-volt parts would need to be replaced: everything from the audio system and power window motors to the taillight bulbs and horn.
And furthermore, there is no retail distribution network for 24-volt (or higher) automotive batteries (so car owners would be up the creek if their battery went dead), and the space and weight requirements of using multiple 12-volt batteries is impractical -- except for hybrids, which already use much higher voltages to run the electric motor(s) and controllers.


----------



## dentinger (Nov 20, 2007)

how bad is it to do a synthetic oil change, then go back to normal oil?
gf's car had synthetic in it by accident, and we went back to normal 10w30 this time...


----------



## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

*Re: (Preppy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Preppy* »_Why do cars still run at 12V, and with accessories running off of a belt or chain?
Why can't cars have an engine + small generator @ 24V or higher, and run all anciliaries electrically? (i.e. A/C, steering pump, water pump, etc.)

?
Actually a serious question... is it a matter of cost and complexity? No real need?


I remember reading *ten years ago* that "future" cars would have windings on the flywheel running that acted as a 24V alternator, and all the accessories would be ran with 24V. I guess cost and the concerns over failed systems made that change less attractive for the automobile companies. An electrical power brake system without a backup system makes me very nervous after my electric power steering went dead one morning in a blink of an eye.


----------



## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

Is the battery system paired with an electric motor/internal combustion engine engine system the lightest and least expensive way to store regenerative braking energy for reuse by the vehicle?


----------



## Der Audidude (May 12, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (kristijonazz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kristijonazz* »_
hmm, that is pretty weird! Did you do anything to your car with VAGcom? 
Does it "ding" in other situations? Like when it tells you to fill up or put the seat belt?

Actually yes it does! I don't have a Vagcom but it does sound like something isn't working properly so I'll have the stealership take a look next time I'm in.
Thanks for the insight everyone!


----------



## ByronLLN (Jul 29, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TurboWraith)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TurboWraith* »_1. I don't know for sure. But, 'overdrive unit' is a misnomer. Overdrive simply implies that a given gear ratio (usually the top gear, sometimes the top two) is a greater than 1:1 ratio. Meaning the output shaft will spin faster than the input shaft. One backyard way to find out is compare how fast the speedo needle climbs in comparison to the tach.

On most modern cars, yes, but there are some not-terribly-old cars out there that have auxiliary overdrive units. 
In his case though, 4th gear is an overdrive gear (0.70:1).
Edit: Typo. 


_Modified by PassSedanGLX at 4:54 PM 4-23-2010_


----------



## muttonchops (Mar 10, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (PassSedanGLX)*

When I see a sign that says "Reduced Speed Ahead", does that mean they are selling meth and if so how much cheaper is it than normal?


----------



## TheDarkEnergist (Aug 22, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *muttonchops* »_When I see a sign that says "Reduced Speed Ahead", does that mean they are selling meth and if so how much cheaper is it than normal?


Sell the computer your posting from and buy meth. You'll have enough to...well...die.


----------



## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TheDarkEnergist)*

Why do they call it wreckless driving when youre going 20 above the speed limit? Shouldnt it be called wreckFULL driving?
ANd also, how do you subscribe to a thread?


----------



## IC AI (Aug 29, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (RacerrRex)*

Where is that "work of art" with the 30 or so traffic lights forming a tree?


----------



## .:FrankRizzo:. (Jul 12, 2008)

*Re: (VWestlife)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VWestlife* »_
You could ask why doesn't North America upgrade its household AC power from 120 volts to 240 volts, to match Europe and Asia, and get the same answer: because the existing system is too well established, and because the costs would outweigh the benefits.

And its not like the rest of the world is running 240v and USA is not. Japan runs 100V with some regions using 60Hz. Taiwan runs 110V at 60Hz. It varies a lot around the world, its not so "120V @60Hz v 240 @ 50Hz" cut and dry.


----------



## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

*Re: (konigwheels)*


_Quote, originally posted by *konigwheels* »_there was an earlier post about the chassis codes of bmw, for instance e21, e30, e36, and e46 for the 3 series. how do they come up with these?
what exactly is trail braking?

And i noticed this question wasnt fully answered, i dont know how they come up with them, but read this:
http://speedhunters.com/archiv....aspx


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## smetzger (Oct 21, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (SnowGTI2003)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SnowGTI2003* »_
Switching at that mileage is fine. However you might find a new oil leak or two when you do.
The better questions is "Why bother switching at that mileage?" 

'Cause my last car went till 327k and was still humming along fine.


----------



## noznab (Nov 11, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (smetzger)*

Since I'll prob get flamed for starting this in a thread of its own I'll try my luck here:
I'm building a custom ram air intake for my v8 s4. It'll have 4'' diameter aluminum piping, but i'm worried since the engine bay temps get so hot in the area closest to the MAF, the pipe itself may not stay cool. Would there be any benefit to having this piping ceramic coated if I can have it done at a reasonable price? And/or are there any heat resistant types of paint that are actually worth a try?


_Modified by noznab at 10:44 PM 4-29-2010_


----------



## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (RacerrRex)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RacerrRex* »_Why do they call it wreckless driving when youre going 20 above the speed limit? Shouldnt it be called wreckFULL driving?
ANd also, how do you subscribe to a thread?

Who is "they?" It's correctly spelled "reckless."


----------



## VWestlife (Sep 29, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (IJM)*


_Quote, originally posted by *IJM* »_Who is "they?" It's correctly spelled "reckless."

The word comes from "reck", which means "to have care, concern, or regard." So, driving _recklessly_ is driving without care, concern, or regard to safety.


----------



## TheDarkEnergist (Aug 22, 2009)

Bumping a good thread to the top, also have a question.

So we know motors have power bands, and we know that we all want PAH! and efficiency in one lovely package. 

My question is: If a motor makes it's peak HP at say... 6200 rpm, is the motor running at it's most efficient at 6200rpm? My inner physics/science nerd knows that 100% efficiency isn't possible, there will always be losses, but does the fact that the motor is producing the most power at that point also mean that the motor is operating at peak efficiency? Is the motor working much harder/consuming more fuel at 3200rpm compared to it's peak HP rpm? Am I way off in thinking the two are related?

What say you, experts?


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

TheDarkEnergist said:


> Bumping a good thread to the top, also have a question.
> 
> So we know motors have power bands, and we know that we all want PAH! and efficiency in one lovely package.
> 
> ...



it has more to do with load.

for example, an engine at 3200RPM will consume less fuel than the same engine at 3200RPM under a higher amount of load. so if you're pulling something or are carrying more weight, you're burning more fuel.

also, an engine at a lower RPM will consume less fuel than the same engine with the same load at a higher RPM because there's less cycles. so purring along at 3000RPM will use less fuel than the same engine with the same load cruising at 6000RPM. at twice the speed, you're asking your injectors to spray twice as often, presumably leading to twice the consumption (remember, assuming load is the same).

i don't think peak power outputs has anything to do with it; particularly since HP is derived from torque, and the amount of fuel delivered per cycle can vary greatly at the same engine speed but under varying load conditions.


but i could be wrong with all that.


----------



## TheDarkEnergist (Aug 22, 2009)

TwoLitreVW said:


> it has more to do with load.
> 
> for example, an engine at 3200RPM will consume less fuel than the same engine at 3200RPM under a higher amount of load. so if you're pulling something or are carrying more weight, you're burning more fuel.
> 
> ...


Thanks for that. 

But that brings up another question. I neglected to mention (actually it's now officially an afterthought) that I'm wondering about this in a sort of unloaded 'vacuum' if you will.

So let's ignore load, because obviously it takes more work to pull/push than just run by itself. 

Basically, is the engine/motor the 'happiest' at this point? It just seems that with my superficial knowledge of the real details Peak HP=Peak Efficiency (fuel or otherwise)


----------



## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

Ive learned quite a few useless thing from this thread :thumbup:

I was going to ask about relays but I looked it up:

A relay is an electrically operated switch. Many relays use an electromagnet to operate a switching mechanism, but other operating principles are also used. Relays find applications where it is necessary to control a circuit by a low-power signal, or where several circuits must be controlled by one signal

they could have used a lot less text and made that a lot easier to read though ...


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## vwgtirob (Aug 16, 2001)

TheDarkEnergist said:


> Basically, is the engine/motor the 'happiest' at this point? It just seems that with my superficial knowledge of the real details Peak HP=Peak Efficiency (fuel or otherwise)


I believe that brake-specific fuel consumption (power per quantity of fuel per time) is highest at the torque peak, not at the power peak; although the two can coincide, they rarely do on street cars for driveability. 

EDIT: Oh, and the exact efficiency varies based on load and throttle angle, too.


----------



## wiggi (Jun 9, 2010)

I've been told its actually illegal to have fog lights on with headlights unless its hazardous weather outside. In most states, is this true?


----------



## 93JC (Jul 24, 2008)

.:FrankRizzo:. said:


> _Quote, originally posted by *VWestlife* »_
> You could ask why doesn't North America upgrade its household AC power from 120 volts to 240 volts, to match Europe and Asia, and get the same answer: because the existing system is too well established, and because the costs would outweigh the benefits.
> 
> And its not like the rest of the world is running 240v and USA is not. Japan runs 100V with some regions using 60Hz. Taiwan runs 110V at 60Hz. It varies a lot around the world, its not so "120V @60Hz v 240 @ 50Hz" cut and dry.


And it's not as though 240 V is an 'upgrade' in any palpable way over 120 V. 

Besides, most North American homes run 240 V. What do people think electric clothes dryers and ranges are plugged into?


----------



## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

Why the hell do so many used vehicles have (unrepaired) body damage?
Are people driving blind?
Why are they all on Craigslist and the body damage is not pictured (or maybe even mentioned) in the ad?


----------



## cryption (Mar 28, 2006)

I had a thought on global warming, and maybe It can go in here.

Could global warming (if it does in fact exist) be caused simply by warm air being put into the environment?

Let me elaborate. The AC unit on the outside of my house puts out air far greater then the ambient temperature of the air. The same goes with vehicle exhaust, factory emissions, etc. Even cooking dinner causes a slight increase in the temperature around the stove.

Could all the things that warm up the area around them - AC coils, stoves, exhaust (temperature not emissions) etc actually be what's causing the problem? I know it sounds silly, and that the temperatures would be offset by things that cool the air around them. But I was just thinking, if every house in my neighborhood has their AC on pumping out as much hot air as mine does - could it not make a difference on a global scale? Everyone is pumping air into the environment that is warmer then the ambient temperature. 

It would be like having a bunch of computers in a room that's not climate controlled. 

Am I crazy?


----------



## Robstr (Jun 9, 2006)

TheDarkEnergist said:


> Basically, is the engine/motor the 'happiest' at this point? It just seems that with my superficial knowledge of the real details Peak HP=Peak Efficiency (fuel or otherwise)


The point of peak hp probably isn't peak efficiency. Though greater efficiency, with all else held constant, in general, would lead to higher peak HP. Does that make sense?

Lets say the engine has no load except for its own internal friction. As the engine spins faster the total amount of energy lost to frictional forces increases. Essentially the more RPM the more energy is going to be wasted.

But engines aren't so simple that X rpm = Y gallons per time of fuel consumption. To maintain a speed the engine must make enough torque at the speed the engine is spinning (according to gearing) to produce enough power overcome all the opposing energy losses.

Essentially this means there is probably a "sweet spot" where RMP/injected fuel ammount/valve operation/air flow reach a maximum value of efficiency. But it'd probably change depending on the vehicles loads.

Increased overall engine efficiency can come from a number of factors. You can extract more energy from the fuel itself or you can lower the total friction inside the engine so less energy is lost and probably other things.

At least that's my understanding from chemical engineering thermo and a statics/dynamics course. A mechE could probably explain more in depth.


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

cryption said:


> I had a thought on global warming, and maybe It can go in here.
> 
> Could global warming (if it does in fact exist) be caused simply by warm air being put into the environment?
> 
> ...


I don't know whether to laugh or have an epiphany


----------



## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

RPM stands for rotation per minute, but rotations per minute of what?

I always thought itd be the wheels, but after actually thinking about it, after shifting gears the RPM goes down, when the wheel is spinning faster increasing acceleration. So what is the RPM referring to? Something in the transmission?


----------



## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

RacerrRex said:


> RPM stands for rotation per minute, but rotations per minute of what?
> 
> I always thought itd be the wheels, but after actually thinking about it, after shifting gears the RPM goes down, when the wheel is spinning faster increasing acceleration. So what is the RPM referring to? Something in the transmission?


revolutions per minute= the number of full rotations per minute.
When talking about an engine- it's the number of engine crank/output shaft rotations per minute.


----------



## Robstr (Jun 9, 2006)

cryption said:


> I had a thought on global warming, and maybe It can go in here.
> ....
> Am I crazy?


Not entirely, because you are right, all that stuff does warm the air. However, the actual energy released is a fairly small amount compared to the volume of the atmosphere AND the amount heat absorbed by the ground/stuff on the ground from the sun is magnitudes higher, to the point that energy is nearly insignificant factoring in all of the earth's land mass.
The main issue in global warming is that that ground heat is re-radiated as infrared and that gets reflected back to the earth by "greenhouse gasses" instead of escaping to space. By adding more greenhouse gasses we increase the reflection rate and thus trap more heat.

We do create localized areas of higher temperature though. It's called the urban heat island effect. It's mostly because of all the black surfaces we have in cities but waste heat is a secondary cause.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Urban_heat_island


The RPM on a tach is rotations per minute of the engine.


----------



## cryption (Mar 28, 2006)

Thanks for the replies .... I wasn't trying to sound stupid or anything I just was thinking - we as people put out a lot of heat energy. It has to be making some sort of effect.


----------



## Robstr (Jun 9, 2006)

Actually there is one more thing to add to this.

Some part of modern global warming data (this should not be confused with ice core records and the like, I'm talking measurements of recent times) may have to do with urban areas encroaching on temperature monitoring stations which were previously rural.

Studies have mostly shown that this doesn't matter, places where the heat island effect is prominent have had temperatures increase more slowly than places where it has little effect. This may be because temp stations are typically in green, lower temperature, zones, like parks, within cities. There's other reasons in that wiki link I posted.



cryption said:


> Thanks for the replies .... I wasn't trying to sound stupid or anything I just was thinking - we as people put out a lot of heat energy. It has to be making some sort of effect.


Most people don't have a terribly good understanding of this stuff, and it's understandable. In the end its fairly complicated stuff to really wrap your head around. And we don't teach science very well to people that don't want to go into it for a career. At least you're asking about it and not going all climate change conspiracy theorist.
I love explaining stuff anyway.


----------



## simon_C (Oct 5, 2006)

sweatyworker said:


> _Quote, originally posted by *Mk3 Mayhem* »_What does "woot" stand for or mean??
> 
> I think it's spelt w00t. It comes from online computer gaming (Counter Strike probably) and is an expression of joy, Kind of like Woo Hoo
> 
> ...


no. its way older than counterstrike. its back from the days of ultima online. it was a shortening of the term "WOW! Loot!". the "w00t" variation is just the 1337sp34k version. yeah. its way the heck older than counterstrike.


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## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

Oh so its RPM in the engine.. thanks!

Another one, Is revving a car/truck in a high RPM bad for the engine?


----------



## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

ROZAP ... please explain :screwy:


----------



## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

skydive_007 said:


> ROZAP ... please explain :screwy:


A wise old guy on these forums once answered my question about that

When theres a repost. Often one person would reply R. the next replied E. then P. THen eventully it would spell repost. But one day it went R. then O. then Z and somehow it ended up spelling ROZAP. Thus creating a TCL legend. I think.


----------



## dj_elite (Jun 7, 2006)

i admit i read this entire thread. some repetition and a few silly answers but overall very informative.

and i have one question that's been kinda bothering me and i don't want to start a thread for it, maybe someone here can help.

i just got my focus SVT about three weeks ago. i've noticed when cruising in a high gear... say 6th and i put down the gas. in every other car i've owned it just putzes along climbs through the revs slowly. in this car, after a sec (if i put the gas down enough), the revs shoot up by 1500-2000 rpm and it revs a bit quicker/easier, and when i let off the throttle a bit, it drops back down.

what causes this effect? this car has a dual stage intake manifold & variable valve timing, but i thought most of those were dependent on the RPM, not the throttle position? It also has a dual mass flywheel (don't believe I've ever driven a car with this)- might that have something to do with it? I don't quite understand what this does/how it affects the car.


----------



## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

Robstr said:


> The RPM on a tach is rotations per minute of the engine.


FWIW- the RPM of an engine/motor is usually a measure of the crank/output shaft rotations.

A typical car engine has to make two full crank rotations for everything in the engine to make one revolution (including cams).

And a Wankel engine must have three e-shaft/output shaft rotations for the rotor(s) to make one full rotation.

So all we are really measuring is the output shaft rotation- not the engine itself.


----------



## TheDarkEnergist (Aug 22, 2009)

Robstr said:


> The point of peak hp probably isn't peak efficiency. Though greater efficiency, with all else held constant, in general, would lead to higher peak HP. Does that make sense?
> 
> Lets say the engine has no load except for its own internal friction. As the engine spins faster the total amount of energy lost to frictional forces increases. Essentially the more RPM the more energy is going to be wasted.
> 
> ...


Great explanation. Thank you. The higher RPM=higher Frictional losses is basically what I was looking for. Again I have an admittedly novice understanding but this definitely helped. :thumbup:


----------



## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

dj_elite said:


> i admit i read this entire thread. some repetition and a few silly answers but overall very informative.
> 
> and i have one question that's been kinda bothering me and i don't want to start a thread for it, maybe someone here can help.
> 
> ...


Sounds like your clutch is slipping.


----------



## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

BRealistic said:


> A typical car engine has to make two full crank rotations for everything in the engine to make one revolution (including cams).


Yes and no. The valvetrain and combustion/ignition cycles are half as fast as the crankshaft rotation, but the pistons, connecting rods, etc. make a full cycle along with the crankshaft. Not to be nitpicky or anything. 

It is interesting though that half the engine is operating at a different speed than the other half. Of course this isn't the case with 2-cycle engines.


----------



## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

IJM said:


> Yes and no. The valvetrain and combustion/ignition cycles are half as fast as the crankshaft rotation, but the pistons, connecting rods, etc. make a full cycle along with the crankshaft. Not to be nitpicky or anything.
> .


Like I said- it's easier just to say RPM is a measure of the output shaft (see Wankel's 3 rpm for every single rotor rpm).


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

Yeah... RPM is the speed of that useful thing coming out of the engine, and going into the transmission.

Now, if your transmission was attached to the camshaft, I could see the case for it being the other way around.


----------



## dj_elite (Jun 7, 2006)

IJM said:


> Sounds like your clutch is slipping.


well that blows. thinking about it, it sounds like you're right.

for further info... it only happens i stomp it in 6th gear and to a lesser extent in 5th. and the car seems to still accelerate when this happens. nonexistent in other gears.

generally, the clutch grabs pretty well and i just replaced the clutch master cylinder and bled the fluid. should i be OK for a while if i avoid mashing it in 6th gear? i just bought the damn car and the clutch kits are pretty pricey, don't know if i can drop that much right now.


----------



## thebigmacd (Aug 17, 2004)

vwgtirob said:


> I believe that brake-specific fuel consumption (power per quantity of fuel per time) is highest at the torque peak, not at the power peak; although the two can coincide, they rarely do on street cars for driveability.
> 
> EDIT: Oh, and the exact efficiency varies based on load and throttle angle, too.


QFT.

An engine's torque curve has a fair amount of correlation to the volumetric efficiency curve, which is simply how much air actually gets into the engine vs the calculated displacement. The higher the VE, the better the cylinder filling, and therefore the higher the torque and BSFC. The relationship isn't 100% linear, but it's pretty close.


----------



## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

VWestlife said:


> _Quote, originally posted by *Preppy* »_Why do cars still run at 12V, and with accessories running off of a belt or chain?
> Why can't cars have an engine + small generator @ 24V or higher, and run all anciliaries electrically? (i.e. A/C, steering pump, water pump, etc.)
> 
> ?
> ...


europe does not use a 240 volt AC system. they use a 120-130 volt AC at 50 hz. while ours is 110 AC at 60 hz.


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

cockerpunk said:


> europe does not use a 240 volt AC system. they use a 120-130 volt AC at 50 hz. while ours is 110 AC at 60 hz.


Nope.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped...rte_der_Netzspannungen_und_Netzfrequenzen.svg


----------



## FigureFive (Dec 21, 2003)

Now that I own one I'm curious about the "Luxury GT" meme here in TCL regarding the R32. Where did that start?


----------



## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

FigureFive said:


> Now that I own one I'm curious about the "Luxury GT" meme here in TCL regarding the R32. Where did that start?


That term was started by Blackballed, IIRC. There was some argument about why the .:R32 shouldn't be judged poorly against the Evo and STI for being 'slow'. So of course there was some dash stroking and mentioning that the .:R is much less harsh than the others. So it is now classified as a Luxury GT. 

Its not really that funny of a story but its just another weird TCL meme.

_*Note: I'm not positive of the actual story. This is just how I remember it. I don't have a link to the actual thread._


----------



## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

mellbergVWfan said:


> That term was started by Blackballed, IIRC. There was some argument about why the .:R32 shouldn't be judged poorly against the Evo and STI for being 'slow'. So of course there was some dash stroking and mentioning that the .:R is much less harsh than the others. So it is now classified as a Luxury GT.
> 
> Its not really that funny of a story but its just another weird TCL meme.
> 
> _*Note: I'm not positive of the actual story. This is just how I remember it. I don't have a link to the actual thread._


Yeah, that does sound familiar. I think that's a good cliff notes version.
And on that note- why do TCLers call the Mazdaspeed6 a fat pig, but not the exact same curb weight MKV R32?


----------



## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

BRealistic said:


> Yeah, that does sound familiar. I think that's a good cliff notes version.
> And on that note- why do TCLers call the Mazdaspeed6 a fat pig, but not the exact same curb weight MKV R32?


It only has a dashstroke factor of 6 while the .:R's over 9000!! I guess since its only got a Turbo 4 and doesn't have a hatch maybe. TCL really only likes the Mk4 .:R32 anyways. Anything over 3000lbs is a fat pig in TCL land.


----------



## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

Ok-what is a "he or she transmission"?

http://knoxville.craigslist.org/cto/1873636764.html



> 1993 bmw 325i 4door - $3000 (knoxville tennessee)
> 
> i have a 1993 bmw 325i with new tires sunroof *he or she transmission* cold air cd player black on black low miles asking $3000 or will trade for some thing nice car call me at 865-789-8841


----------



## jettafan[atic] (Dec 2, 2008)

Why the hell doesn't the oil plug bolt on all cars face down instead of at some angle facing a wheel, or splashguard that splashes oil everywhere etc? You get a more complete drain in shorter time with a vertical plug located on the bottom of the pan than this angled nonsense and I can't think of any reason why it's not done like this on all cars.


----------



## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

jettafan[atic] said:


> Why the hell doesn't the oil plug bolt on all cars face down instead of at some angle facing a wheel, or splashguard that splashes oil everywhere etc? You get a more complete drain in shorter time with a vertical plug located on the bottom of the pan than this angled nonsense and I can't think of any reason why it's not done like this on all cars.


Yeah. My 73 F-100 oil pan drain was like 1" above the cross member. All you could do was set the pan under and hope to catch most of the explosion of oil.
On the plus side- those cross members hardly ever rusted.. for some reason...


----------



## ohsnappe2 (May 20, 2008)

do built motors have to be ever be rebuilt from just plain jane use? why do i feel like you have to regardless of how you beat or dont beat on it


----------



## Señor Peligro (Aug 6, 2009)

mellbergVWfan said:


> That term was started by Blackballed, IIRC. There was some argument about why the .:R32 shouldn't be judged poorly against the Evo and STI for being 'slow'. So of course there was some dash stroking and mentioning that the .:R is much less harsh than the others. So it is now classified as a Luxury GT.
> 
> Its not really that funny of a story but its just another weird TCL meme.
> 
> _*Note: I'm not positive of the actual story. This is just how I remember it. I don't have a link to the actual thread._


Nah, wasn't me, I just think it's funny, so I kept it going...sarcastically. chuckster1 was the first to say it, when he was extolling the virtues of the R32.


----------



## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

Bump - 

When swapping an engine/motor from a different model car, do you have to use the trans from that car too? Are any motor mount locations standard between companies?


----------



## WhitePoloCT (Jul 28, 2005)

sjt1985 said:


> Bump -
> 
> When swapping an engine/motor from a different model car, do you have to use the trans from that car too? Are any motor mount locations standard between companies?


Different manufacturer too? That will depend on a few things... you might be able to use an adapter plate of some sort between your current trans and the new engine, or you might need the trans that goes with the new engine.

If the engine comes from the same manufacturer, then you might be able to use the same gearbox if you are using an engine in the same family line... eg: Honda B series.


----------



## mavric_ac (Sep 13, 2007)

why can't justanotherusername have one decent conversation in a thread without arguing and insisting everyone else is retarded, dumb ect...?


----------



## ladykiller (Oct 9, 2003)

Another motor swap question or two...

You have car from manufacturer A and motor from manufacturer B, is there anyway to know without having the two items if the motor will fit in the engine bay?

You have car from manufacturer A and it offers a few different stock motors. Is it any easier to go from one stock motor to another if they are mounted the same (inline or transversely). For example: you find a cheap truck with a v6, but it also is available with a v8. Is it any easier to go that route, rather than getting a motor from a different manufacturer?


----------



## TheDarkEnergist (Aug 22, 2009)

ladykiller said:


> Another motor swap question or two...
> 
> You have car from manufacturer A and motor from manufacturer B, is there anyway to know without having the two items if the motor will fit in the engine bay?
> 
> You have car from manufacturer A and it offers a few different stock motors. Is it any easier to go from one stock motor to another if they are mounted the same (inline or transversely). For example: you find a cheap truck with a v6, but it also is available with a v8. Is it any easier to go that route, rather than getting a motor from a different manufacturer?


*Measure, measure, measure*. I've used cardboard cutouts/dummy shapes to determine whether a motor would fit or not. Hell of a lot easier than finagling a 400lb motor around.

Usually, if 2 engines are offered in 1 body style, either engine will fit with substantially less work and trouble than one from a different manufacturer.


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

I want to turbocharge a car/ rebuild an engine/ rebuild a trans but there are very basic things about cars that I don't know - like what the EGR valve is and how to change a starter.

I just figure I can learn as I go. Everyone starts somewhere, right?


----------



## Swapped6n (Feb 11, 2010)

omg edited because I responded to what some one said from 2000 and fhacking 5 .


----------



## DzlDub (Aug 16, 2007)

How does brake torquing work? I mean the engine has to spin to operate and when it's connected to the wheels under full brakes how does it not stall?! IT'S CRAZY!!!!!


----------



## thebigmacd (Aug 17, 2004)

DzlDub said:


> How does brake torquing work? I mean the engine has to spin to operate and when it's connected to the wheels under full brakes how does it not stall?! IT'S CRAZY!!!!!


You can only brake torque in an automatic, because it has a torque converter. A torque converter is one type of fluid coupling (viscous coupling is another type) that allows the input shaft to turn at a different speed than the output shaft.

A torque converter is designed to allow the engine to turn faster than the wheels, and efficiently multiply the torque applied to the wheels. When you do a brake torque at wide open throttle, the RPM at which the engine sits at is the stall speed of the torque converter. Through some turbine trickery, the torque applied at the stopped wheels is about double that of the engine at the stall speed. Which is why if you have lots of traction, brake torquing makes you launch faster.


----------



## Chilledman (Jul 15, 2010)

What do the difffernet BMW car numbers mean ? 

E36 
M70923
G9u0u

Seriously ? 

Again I am a volvo only guy so your all going about bmw this and bmw that and never can understand what half of you are talking about ....


----------



## WhitePoloCT (Jul 28, 2005)

Chilledman said:


> What do the difffernet BMW car numbers mean ?
> 
> E36
> M70923
> ...


I'm not familiar with the other two codes you posted, but the E36 is the chassis code for this shape 3 series:










E30 would be this:










Others here: http://www.bmwinfo.com/index.html


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## ladykiller (Oct 9, 2003)

TheDarkEnergist said:


> *Measure, measure, measure*. I've used cardboard cutouts/dummy shapes to determine whether a motor would fit or not. Hell of a lot easier than finagling a 400lb motor around.
> 
> Usually, if 2 engines are offered in 1 body style, either engine will fit with substantially less work and trouble than one from a different manufacturer.


Dark....what if you don't have access to either? Or should you just bite the bullet on purchasing the car, and then measure the engine bay to see if the motor you want will fit?

Are there any sites that list engine dimentions?


----------



## TheDarkEnergist (Aug 22, 2009)

Personally, I wouldn't buy anything unless I was sure of my options. If you can't get to the car itself, ask the seller to take some rough measurements. Worst case scenario is you're off by an inch or two and need to fab a motor mount.

Here's a site with some popular V8 dimensions:

http://www.carnut.com/specs/engdim.html

Further than that, I'd just type: **Insert Brand/Make/Model* Engine Dimensions* into Google


----------



## ladykiller (Oct 9, 2003)

Thanks for the link :beer:


----------



## NeezDuts (Feb 22, 2010)

Chilledman said:


> What do the difffernet BMW car numbers mean ?
> 
> E36
> M70923
> ...


You would ask that.


----------



## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

why do folks do the "sponsor" kind of theme on the donks ??? :what:

like so:


----------



## IHateSpeedBumps (Feb 20, 2005)

skydive_007 said:


> why do folks do the "sponsor" kind of theme on the donks ???


I am going with lack of taste/ education :thumbup:
Take a look at the drivers and think.


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

OOOOOO WAIT !

found this one !!:


----------



## gti_sickness03 (Apr 3, 2008)

Why is painting the background of headlights called the Joey mod? :sly:


----------



## Chilledman (Jul 15, 2010)

WhitePoloCT said:


> I'm not familiar with the other two codes you posted, but the E36 is the chassis code for this shape 3 series:
> 
> Others here: http://www.bmwinfo.com/index.html


Thank you even for me being a douche to you before :beer: to you .


----------



## 315061 (Feb 22, 2007)

What is going to happen to the Pontiac G8 now that Pontiac is no more? Will Chevy adopt it?


----------



## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

gti_sickness03 said:


> Why is painting the background of headlights called the Joey mod? :sly:


Theres a name for it? I always just said paint around the headlights lmao.


----------



## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

Ive posted this link so many times in this thread, but yet people still keep asking about chassis codes :screwy:

http://speedhunters.com/archive/2008/06/20/the-101-gt-gt-intro-to-chassis-codes.aspx


----------



## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

BUMP I have a question.
In my drivers ed car, my instructor has a brake pedal for her on the passenger side. So that made me wonder...

Does that mean theres 2 brake master cylinders? Or is her brake pedal just mechanically linked to the one on my side?


----------



## XClayX (Apr 30, 2005)

What do you think of this idea.

Everyone hates automatics, and no one seems to buy manuals. So car makers make those crap-tastic trip tronic style automatics. Why not combine both.

A three pedal automatic. Based off a DSG transmission with a normal 6spd manual shifter layout.

Clutch pedal would be for slipage of the clutches.

Gas/brake.

Shifter would be R 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 in the standard H style pattern just like regular manuals. Except it would be drive by wire. Like bumping a triptronic transmission, only you move the shifter.

Different modes. Auto, Auto Manual, Manual

Auto, Uses only 3 slots park, drive, reverse.

Auto manual uses all the ports but you have to move the shifter don't need the clutch. i.e. you have to move shifter to 3rd gear to be in 3rd, not bump up/down

Manual, works just like a manual only drive by wire. You would need to use the clutch pedal.

I think it might be a more fun than just a standard dsg with paddle shifters.


----------



## monkeytronic (Oct 5, 2009)

RacerrRex said:


> BUMP I have a question.
> In my drivers ed car, my instructor has a brake pedal for her on the passenger side. So that made me wonder...
> 
> Does that mean theres 2 brake master cylinders? Or is her brake pedal just mechanically linked to the one on my side?


The added passenger side brake pedal remotely actuates the driver side brake pedal typically via a cable setup.

A good bit of info can be had here: Twin Stop Instructor's Brake System


----------



## Mechorg (Sep 25, 2003)

gti_sickness03 said:


> Why is painting the background of headlights called the Joey mod? :sly:


Because the first person to do it years and years ago was a vortexer named Joey, who made a thread DIY about it. It has since been named the Joey mod.


----------



## H Mike (Mar 20, 2007)

why do all duely trucks have that convex wheel in the front? as if the axle needs to extend past the wheel for some reason


----------



## nico24vr6 (Apr 8, 2004)

"UR" before a car name, what does that mean? ex "UR S4" 

or "MY 02",

what is that all about


----------



## monkeytronic (Oct 5, 2009)

H Mike said:


> why do all duely trucks have that convex wheel in the front? as if the axle needs to extend past the wheel for some reason


So that one size/offset wheel can be installed on all the truck's axles.

Dismount one of the outboard wheels from the rear axle, turn it around so that the formerly inside face faces outwards and now you've got a wheel that can be installed on the front axle (or inboard on the rear axle).


----------



## monkeytronic (Oct 5, 2009)

nico24vr6 said:


> "UR" before a car name, what does that mean? ex "UR S4"
> 
> or "MY 02",
> 
> what is that all about


Ze Germans use the "Ur-" prefix to mean "ursprünglich" which is equivalent to "original" in English.


"MY" usually stands for model year.


----------



## gtiguy12 (May 22, 2006)

RacerrRex said:


> BUMP I have a question.
> In my drivers ed car, my instructor has a brake pedal for her on the passenger side. So that made me wonder...
> 
> Does that mean theres 2 brake master cylinders? Or is her brake pedal just mechanically linked to the one on my side?


Most of the linkages are manual. Sticking your foot underneath the pedal sideways and taking a corner a little too fast is the perfect way to scare the snot out of your driving instructor. This happened to me on accident, because I had never driven an automatic car when I was trying to get my license, and i didn't know what to do with my left foot as there was no clutch pedal. and yes, It did hurt a little.


----------



## ErikMarkVI (Jul 20, 2010)

in RHD Cars do the manual transmission gearing the same as LHD like 1st is on the left top corner 2nd lower left corner so on and so forth? or is it backwards? like 1st would be right top hand corner. if it is opposite how does it work out if you were to swap a motor/tranny out to a LHD car?


----------



## TetsuoShima (Nov 30, 2008)

ErikMarkVI said:


> in RHD Cars do the manual transmission gearing the same as LHD like 1st is on the left top corner 2nd lower left corner so on and so forth? or is it backwards? like 1st would be right top hand corner. if it is opposite how does it work out if you were to swap a motor/tranny out to a LHD car?


The gear positions are the same regardless of RHD or LHD.


----------



## H Mike (Mar 20, 2007)

monkeytronic said:


> So that one size/offset wheel can be installed on all the truck's axles.
> 
> Dismount one of the outboard wheels from the rear axle, turn it around so that the formerly inside face faces outwards and now you've got a wheel that can be installed on the front axle (or inboard on the rear axle).


 Ahh I see. That ones been bugging me for years. Seems so obvious now hah. Thanx :thumbup:


----------



## DzlDub (Aug 16, 2007)

How does a 16V work on a SOHC motor, like my Honda?


----------



## MrRline (Apr 6, 2010)

How does an oil catch can work??? I've always wondered


----------



## Mr. Clarkson (Jul 24, 2008)

dj_cronic_metal said:


> How does an oil catch can work??? I've always wondered


oil and air come in, oil falls to bottom whilst air flows back out?


----------



## dieselraver (Nov 11, 2007)

what is the coil packs that are constantly replaced in a mk?


----------



## thebigmacd (Aug 17, 2004)

DzlDub said:


> How does a 16V work on a SOHC motor, like my Honda?


There are 4 cam lobes and rockers per cylinder


----------



## TheDarkEnergist (Aug 22, 2009)

dj_cronic_metal said:


> How does an oil catch can work??? I've always wondered


The PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) Valve basically takes the grime (read oil/coolant/blowby from combustion) and recirculates it through the engine's air intake. That's why on my old MR2 if you took the intercooler piping off, you'd see a slight film of oil/blowby lining the insides of the pipes.

A catch can is basically a stopgap between the PCV valve and the intake. Wherein the crankcase is ventilated, but all the grit and grime gets sent into a small, removable/cleanable container.



dieselraver said:


> what is the coil packs that are constantly replaced in a mk?


The coil *pack* is a misnomer I believe. The coil *pack* is basically an electronic box that replaces the mechanical distributor found in older cars.

The items that need frequent replacement are basically ignition coils that receive a "fire now" signal from the coil pack itself. The ignition coil (the part that constantly breaks) effectively serves as the spark plug wire/boot of yesteryear.


----------



## Fisherson (Dec 22, 2008)

What would be a short list of things in a car from the factory that make an engine very lazy or very willing to rev?

(Example: 2.0T FSI vs. 2.0T TSI.)


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

TheDarkEnergist said:


> The coil *pack* is a misnomer I believe. The coil *pack* is basically an electronic box that replaces the mechanical distributor found in older cars.
> 
> The items that need frequent replacement are basically ignition coils that receive a "fire now" signal from the coil pack itself. The ignition coil (the part that constantly breaks) effectively serves as the spark plug wire/boot of yesteryear.


Sort of...

The coil "pack" is a transformer that steps up the voltage from the ECU (12V) to whatever is needed to cross the spark plug gap. This was done in the distributor before. The old-school spark plug wire was just a wire that carried the high voltage from the distributor to the plug electrode. What typically fails on the coilpacks is the insulation that allows the tranformer to do its job. When the insulation fails, you get a whopping 12V at the plug, so no spark.


----------



## Farnsworth (Jan 26, 2010)

Why are 2WD trucks always RWD?


----------



## TheDarkEnergist (Aug 22, 2009)

atomicalex said:


> Sort of...
> 
> The coil "pack" is a transformer that steps up the voltage from the ECU (12V) to whatever is needed to cross the spark plug gap. This was done in the distributor before. The old-school spark plug wire was just a wire that carried the high voltage from the distributor to the plug electrode. What typically fails on the coilpacks is the insulation that allows the tranformer to do its job. When the insulation fails, you get a whopping 12V at the plug, so no spark.


I knew I wasn't 100% right. Thanks. :beer:


----------



## Baltimoron (Oct 10, 2001)

Farnsworth said:


> Why are 2WD trucks always RWD?


I'm thinking it is probably due to the traditional truck design, body on frame.

If Most trucks are body on frame, and most body on frame designs are RWD, then most trucks are RWD.


Makes me think what trucks out there are not body on frame or RWD? The only I can think of is the Jeep Commanche - Unibody but it is still RWD or 4WD. I don't consider the VW Caddy/Saviero/Rabbit Pickup a truck... it is a truckette. No RWD/4WD, no truck!



My question, find me a unibody car or truck that uses leaf springs instead of coil springs (Corvette not included)


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

Farnsworth said:


> Why are 2WD trucks always RWD?


Probably because it makes more sense to have payload weight over the drive wheels, whether you are towing or loading up the bed.


----------



## Bias_Ply (Feb 6, 2010)

CoolWhiteWolfsburg said:


> My question, find me a unibody car or truck that uses leaf springs instead of coil springs (Corvette not included)












lots- but old Mopars were unibody construction.


----------



## JeffIsLax (Mar 26, 2005)

CoolWhiteWolfsburg said:


> My question, find me a unibody car or truck that uses leaf springs instead of coil springs (Corvette not included)


The Jeep Cherokee uses leaf springs in the rear.


----------



## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Farnsworth said:


> Why are 2WD trucks always RWD?


Also, for towing, you want the power at the back where all the trailer/tongue weight is.

Visualize a heavily-loaded truck that's sagging in the back, then imagine trying to put a bunch of power through the lightly-loaded front wheels. You'd just be doing burnouts all day long.


----------



## Gitcha Sum (May 27, 2008)

atomicalex said:


> Sort of...
> 
> The coil "pack" is a transformer that steps up the voltage from the ECU (12V) to whatever is needed to cross the spark plug gap. This was done in the distributor before. The old-school spark plug wire was just a wire that carried the high voltage from the distributor to the plug electrode. What typically fails on the coilpacks is the insulation that allows the tranformer to do its job. When the insulation fails, you get a whopping 12V at the plug, so no spark.


Sort of...

The distributor in old tech was a geared prong, spinning with the motor. As the rotor aligns to a point, voltage runs from the coil, to that spark plug. It doesn't change the voltage, just distribute it. The ignition coil is what steps up the voltage, the distributor only sends it to the correct plug. An ignition coil is nothing more than a transformer. You're 100% right about the insulation, there's 2 coils wrapped together, as 12v flows through one, the magnetic/electric field forces voltage through the other coil, the ratio of windings is what changes the output voltage. 

The new style uses the ECU to time the firing, similiar to how the fuel injectors are fired. The ECU tells coilpack 1 to go, sending it 12v, it converts it to the proper voltage right there at the plug. 

If you're ignition coil goes, you're toast. Dead in the water. If a coil pack fails, you go limp mode, loose a cylinder, and drive (even though you probably shouldn't) home or to the dealer.


----------



## TurboMinivan (Mar 17, 2003)

Farnsworth said:


> Why are 2WD trucks always RWD?


They aren't always RWD:

Dodge Rampage









... and the VW equivalent









And I believe the BRAT was FWD when the driver hadn't engaged the 4WD


----------



## TheDarkEnergist (Aug 22, 2009)

deucestudios said:


> If you're ignition coil goes, you're toast. Dead in the water. If a coil pack fails, you go limp mode, loose a cylinder, and drive (even though you probably shouldn't) home or to the dealer.


So I believe had the terminology reversed.:thumbup:


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

dj_cronic_metal said:


> How does an oil catch can work??? I've always wondered


Official Catch Can DIY/FAQ


----------



## warren_s (Apr 26, 2009)

I got a paint ding in my car recently. Backed into something.... I was super-tired, stupid me. :facepalm:

Anyways, a friend of mine told me to bring it to his friend's body shop. They have a tool they can use to identify the precise colour used on the car so that they can touch it up. And they don't necessarily have to go back to Audi to get the right share?

Here's what I want to know -- how does this machine work?


----------



## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

warren_s said:


> I got a paint ding in my car recently. Backed into something.... I was super-tired, stupid me. :facepalm:
> 
> Anyways, a friend of mine told me to bring it to his friend's body shop. They have a tool they can use to identify the precise colour used on the car so that they can touch it up. And they don't necessarily have to go back to Audi to get the right share?
> 
> Here's what I want to know -- how does this machine work?


It's a camera.


----------



## Col. Sandurz (Aug 23, 2009)

Where can I get these parts?:laugh:


----------



## TheDarkEnergist (Aug 22, 2009)

Farnsworth said:


> Why are 2WD trucks always RWD?


Along with this answer:



TurboMinivan said:


> They aren't always RWD:
> 
> And I believe the BRAT was FWD when the driver hadn't engaged the 4WD


I think the Honda Ridgeline has bit of a strange setup. When you first start moving the VTM-4 system is in AWD mode. As you gain speed at around 19mph almost all the power is transferred to the front wheels. Once slip is detected, some power is sent back to the rear wheels



Variable Torque Management VTM-4 Explanation
By Gary Flint - American Honda said:


> Variable Torque Management 4-Wheel Drive (VTM-4)
> 
> *1. Acceleration Mode *
> There are three distinct modes of VTM-4 engagement. The first – called the acceleration torque
> ...


I can post more info if you'd like, but that about sums it up.:thumbup:

*Remember this article is written by a man who works for Honda, so the explanation will seem biased. I know how TCL loves a good AWD argument.


----------



## Farnsworth (Jan 26, 2010)

*2WD trucks*

All of those trucks, along with the Honda Ridgeline, are car-based (or otherwise car-like), correct?

I'm talking about good ol' BoF pickup trucks, and the SUVs based upon them.


----------



## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Farnsworth said:


> All of those trucks, along with the Honda Ridgeline, are car-based (or otherwise car-like), correct?
> 
> I'm talking about good ol' BoF pickup trucks, and the SUVs based upon them.


Go to 9:00 on this video and watch the Highlander trying to climb the hill. 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7dVFY5CxT0

With all the weight shifting to the back, the front wheels would just spin when carrying a heavy load. Plus longitudinal drivetrains are generally stouter and able to handle more power than transverse setups. Witness how the Ecoboost V6 limits the torque pretty severely in the Taurus compared to the F150.


----------



## TheDarkEnergist (Aug 22, 2009)

Farnsworth said:


> All of those trucks, along with the Honda Ridgeline, are car-based (or otherwise car-like), correct?
> 
> I'm talking about good ol' BoF pickup trucks, and the SUVs based upon them.


Pretty much, yes. But like adrew said, when you watch a car accelerate, weight shifts to the rear. Where there's weight, there's traction.

A strictly FWD pickup, unibody or not, would struggle to carry any substantial load.


----------



## jddaigle (May 30, 2003)

deucestudios said:


> Sort of...
> 
> The distributor in old tech was a geared prong, spinning with the motor. As the rotor aligns to a point, voltage runs from the coil, to that spark plug. It doesn't change the voltage, just distribute it. The ignition coil is what steps up the voltage, the distributor only sends it to the correct plug. An ignition coil is nothing more than a transformer. You're 100% right about the insulation, there's 2 coils wrapped together, as 12v flows through one, the magnetic/electric field forces voltage through the other coil, the ratio of windings is what changes the output voltage.
> 
> ...


This. A "Coil Pack" (VAG VR6 configuration) puts all of the coils in one "package" and runs high voltage cables to all the cylinders. The other way to do it is to put a coil on each plug (VAG 1.8T and most other modern distributor-less engine configuration), controlled by the ECU via low-voltage cables as described above.

Using "coil" and "coil pack" interchangeably (especially when the user is smearing the reliability of certain VAG engine ignition systems without ever having owned or driven one) is one of my pet peaves.


----------



## tonytomasi88 (Sep 9, 2005)

enriquejcu said:


> here's one:
> Do they really need to post "No Passing" signs on roads with a double yellow center line?



yes... sometimes it snows and you can't see the road


----------



## warren_s (Apr 26, 2009)

MustacheGT said:


> It's a camera.


Yes. Know any more than that?


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

jddaigle said:


> This.


Yes. My fail on not bringing the coil into my original post!

The 1.8t setup has the actual name "coil-on-plug" to indicate the the individual coils are sitting directly the plugs.


----------



## Rejekt (Nov 1, 2007)

Probably a stupid question, but....Does VW own Porsche? or is it the other way around? 

I remember a year ago, I was hearing about takeover bids from Porsche, and the VW law in Germany being dropped. I went off grid for a little while, and when I came back, it seemed like VW turned the tables from everything that I read.


----------



## JorgenP (Apr 8, 2010)

Is it okay to do handbrake turn with automatic, while it's in D?


----------



## stascom (Sep 12, 2009)

Rejekt said:


> Probably a stupid question, but....Does VW own Porsche? or is it the other way around?
> 
> I remember a year ago, I was hearing about takeover bids from Porsche, and the VW law in Germany being dropped. I went off grid for a little while, and when I came back, it seemed like VW turned the tables from everything that I read.


Porsche that "owns" VW is not the Porsche that makes 911... It's an investment company founded/ran by the Porsche family (descendants of Ferdinand Porsche). It's a clusterf**k
here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volkswagen#Ownership


----------



## kenny301 (Aug 30, 2001)

Question about tire pressure here

The tire sidewall says 45psi
The trucks door jamb says 30psi. 

Given the fiasco after the Ford Explorer tire blow outs and hearing that ford reccomended a tire pressure that was too low for the tires being use, which one do I go with?


----------



## stascom (Sep 12, 2009)

Should gas prices decrease or increase with popularity of electric vehicles?


----------



## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

kenny301 said:


> Question about tire pressure here
> 
> The tire sidewall says 45psi
> The trucks door jamb says 30psi.
> ...


 
In between. Tire marking is maximum safe pressure. Vehicle label is intended for optimum ride comfort (usually on the soft side).


----------



## feels_road (Jan 27, 2005)

stascom said:


> Should gas prices decrease or increase with popularity of electric vehicles?


 Since it will take 15 - 20 years for EVs to make a dent, gas prices will certainly increase a lot, by then. But for other reasons.


----------



## Gspot20 (Aug 21, 2010)

kenny301 said:


> Question about tire pressure here
> 
> The tire sidewall says 45psi
> The trucks door jamb says 30psi.
> ...


 My girlfriend has one of those explorers, I put in 37psi:thumbup:


----------



## WeeTony (Jun 21, 2010)

sjt1985 said:


> I want to turbocharge a car/ rebuild an engine/ rebuild a trans but there are very basic things about cars that I don't know - like what the EGR valve is and how to change a starter.
> 
> I just figure I can learn as I go. Everyone starts somewhere, right?


 Yeah, go for it. 

I started with a £15 20 piece tool kit (hammer and measuring tape being 2) and rebuilt my mk1 golf. The tool collection will grow with the knowledge and experience. 

Get manuals if possible and the internet is your friend. 

Avoid ebay or enjoy an expensive and addictive part collecting hobby. 

Post pics. 

Ultimately, someone's already done it - and there's nothing you can break that can't be fixed/replaced. 

Mechanics aren't born so, they become so. 


/hopefully motivational reply


----------



## Vroomall (Dec 29, 2008)

I just read the first page of this without realizing it is 5 years old, made for a good laugh :laugh:


----------



## Farnsworth (Jan 26, 2010)

What is vacuum (in the automotive sense), why is it so important to the running condition of the engine, and why does it leak in so many places when a car gets old? 

(This after doing battle with the GF's 2000 Mercury Sable 24v.)


----------



## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

How come the news people will say the road conditions are "going downhill" when getting worse, but they never say they are "going uphill" when getting better?


----------



## jettafan[atic] (Dec 2, 2008)

Farnsworth said:


> What is vacuum (in the automotive sense), why is it so important to the running condition of the engine, and why does it leak in so many places when a car gets old?
> 
> (This after doing battle with the GF's 2000 Mercury Sable 24v.)


Vacuum is created in the cylinder during the intake stroke when the piston moves downwards to pull in air. Without maintaining the right level of vacuum then you won't get enough air flowing into the cylinder but the vacuum is also used to assist other functions such as braking. Try driving slowly on a straight road and shut your engine off, now brake a few times. Most newer cars have some type of reservoir to maintain vacuum pressure in the case of the engine dying but after pressing the pedal down a few times you should notice that it takes a lot more effort to get the same braking force. Vacuum is supplied to other areas of the car via vacuum lines which are just rubber hoses. Just like coolant hoses, brake lines, fuel lines etc... they deteriorate over time and will develop leaks.


----------



## Yavuz (Sep 28, 2008)

I've got a dumb question.

Let's say I mash the throttle in a powerful RWD car. I break traction and the car starts getting a little sideways. What is the best way to get it back in control. Keep your foot down and steer out of it or let off? For some reason I've always thought the car would loop around if i got off the throttle quickly, so I've just stayed on it. Kind of an uneasy feeling when it happens.


----------



## d_98se (Jun 19, 2007)

Who do dually trucks front Rims Poke out is it because of the hub and if so why. I also see this with 18wheelers.


----------



## d_98se (Jun 19, 2007)

Yavuz said:


> I've got a dumb question.
> 
> Let's say I mash the throttle in a powerful RWD car. I break traction and the car starts getting a little sideways. What is the best way to get it back in control.


Release and apply that "oppo". You really don't want to be sideways with full throttle applied and regain traction.


----------



## XClayX (Apr 30, 2005)

If I buy a 2010 Forester 2.5 Prem 5spd can I still have fun without the turbo?


----------



## 93JC (Jul 24, 2008)

Yavuz said:


> I've got a dumb question.
> 
> Let's say I mash the throttle in a powerful RWD car. I break traction and the car starts getting a little sideways. What is the best way to get it back in control. Keep your foot down and steer out of it or let off? For some reason I've always thought the car would loop around if i got off the throttle quickly, so I've just stayed on it. Kind of an uneasy feeling when it happens.


Countersteer for sure. As a generic rule you should ease off the throttle to the point where you still maintain control and don't cause lift-off oversteer. The precise amount of reduction in throttle input is _very_ dependent on the design of the car and the road conditions.

All of this needs to be done smoothly. Jerk the steering wheel or let off the gas too quick and you will upset the balance of the car.



d_98se said:


> Who do dually trucks front Rims Poke out is it because of the hub and if so why. I also see this with 18wheelers.


They poke out because they're the same wheel as is on the back of the truck; this way you only need a single type of spare. The hub is roughly speaking the same as on the normal truck but a spacer is provided to accommodate the offset.

In fact, as far as I know, the recommended tire rotation sequence for a dually is to swap the front wheels to the inner rear, the outer rear wheels to the front and the inner rear wheels to the outer rear.


----------



## Gitcha Sum (May 27, 2008)

93JC said:


> The hub is roughly speaking the same as on the normal truck but a spacer is provided to accommodate the offset.


You're right about the wheel. 
The spindle is the same, and inside of the hub is the same, same jam nut, same bearing, but the outside of the hubs are totally different. 
The manual lockout internals & caps are the same too. 
On the singe rear wheel (SRW) front axle, the wheel stud is pressed through the back of the rotor & hub, the hub is torqued down to the spindle with a special jam nut.
On the dually rear wheel (DRW) front axle the rotor bolts to the back of the hub, same nut holds the hub to the spindle, the wheel studs are pressed through the front section of the hub. 

SRW









DRW


----------



## 557688 (Aug 21, 2010)

1993 525i with 214k miles. How much is it worth and how long of a life do you guys think it has left? Auto transmission btw.


----------



## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

How do you do a burnout? (on an automatic car)


----------



## Impeccable (Apr 17, 2004)

Mr Miyagi said:


> 1993 525i with 214k miles. How much is it worth and how long of a life do you guys think it has left? Auto transmission btw.


 Life depends on how good you've taken care of it.


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

RacerrRex said:


> How do you do a burnout? (on *someone else's* automatic car)


 Neutral Drop. 

Chryslers have a digital nanny that largely prevents this, both limiting redline in neutral, and cutting the throttle before it drops into gear.


----------



## 557688 (Aug 21, 2010)

RacerrRex said:


> How do you do a burnout? (on an automatic car)


 ive been wondering this myself... Brakestand??


----------



## dentinger (Nov 20, 2007)

Mr Miyagi said:


> ive been wondering this myself... Brakestand??


 FWD: ebrake +/- neutral drop 
RWD: brake stand


----------



## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

dentinger said:


> FWD: ebrake +/- neutral drop
> RWD: brake stand


 Whats a brake stand?


----------



## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

RacerrRex said:


> Whats a brake stand?


 Left foot on brake, right on gas. Hold the brake hard enough to keep the car from rolling but not any more than that as it will heat the hell out of the rear brakes very quickly.


----------



## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

So balance brake pedal while flooring gas?


----------



## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

RacerrRex said:


> So balance brake pedal while flooring gas?


 Yep. I had a 2.5L Ranger that would NOT brake stand due to a lack of power. I had to use puddles. :laugh:


----------



## Singularity (Jul 3, 2010)

what is double clutching?


----------



## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

Singularity said:


> what is double clutching?


 I beleive its quickly shifting it into nuetral and revving it inbetween each gear shift. 
Im positive im wrong though.


----------



## V8Star (Jun 27, 2007)

Singularity said:


> what is double clutching?


 When you go to shift.. 

Clutch in. Neutral. Clutch out. Clutch in. Desired gear. Clutch out. 

Most Modern cars do not require this.


----------



## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

Some British language questions. 

Front fenders are wings? 

Wrenches are spanners? 

Trunk is the boot? 

Hood is the bonnet? 

Truck is lorry? 

Why?


----------



## stascom (Sep 12, 2009)

BRealistic said:


> Some British language questions.
> 
> Front fenders are wings?
> 
> ...


 Because they did it first and they did it right.


----------



## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

stascom said:


> Because they did it first and they did it right.


 You wanker.


----------



## TorontoGT (Oct 26, 2006)

BRealistic said:


> You wanker.


 :laugh:


----------



## roflingsam (Apr 12, 2008)

why is the evo ix similarly priced to a evo x?


----------



## 557688 (Aug 21, 2010)

roflingsam said:


> why is the evo ix similarly priced to a evo x?


 its 1 less


----------



## jay3737 (May 19, 2005)

XClayX said:


> If I buy a 2010 Forester 2.5 Prem 5spd can I still have fun without the turbo?


 yes...just don't expect blistering acceleration. (just bought '11 Foz 2.5X Premium 5spd 3 days ago) 
:laugh:


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

MustacheGT said:


> Yep. I had a 2.5L Ranger that would NOT brake stand due to a lack of power. I had to use puddles. :laugh:


 Thank you for making my day. I :heart: you.


----------



## Fisherson (Dec 22, 2008)

If you own a Miata with a hard top, do you have to remove the soft top?


----------



## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

TheIllusionistD said:


> If you own a Miata with a hard top, do you have to remove the soft top?


No.

The soft top drops into a special area behind the seats (not the trunk). :thumbup:


----------



## Fisherson (Dec 22, 2008)

BRealistic said:


> No.
> 
> The soft top drops into a special area behind the seats (not the trunk). :thumbup:


That's awesome.


----------



## Skyrocket (Sep 8, 2005)

I have worked in the automotive industry and been an enthusiast of european cars for the better part of my life. Whenever talking about a BMW with a friend or a customer, it is called a "3 series" or a "5 series" and so on, if not the exact model (335i for example). I frequently see people on this forum reffering to a BMW "3er" or a "5er" What exactly does the "er" represent? I have never heard this spoken in real life.


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

Skyrocket said:


> What exactly does the "er" represent? I have never heard this spoken in real life.


You've probably never lived in Germany.

"3er" is short for "dreier" (dry-air), which is German for "the thing that is three". Der Dreier translates as "the three item".

Basically German shorthand for all things 3.


----------



## Skyrocket (Sep 8, 2005)

You are correct, I have lived in Canada my entire life. I was beginning to think "er" could have been a very lazy abbreviation for "series" Thank you kindly for the explanation.

One more question, not excactly car related. What is the difference between "fancy" and "not fancy" CT everyone has in their profiles here?


----------



## Turq (Nov 9, 2001)

atomicalex said:


> You've probably never lived in Germany.
> 
> "3er" is short for "dreier" (dry-air), which is German for "the thing that is three". Der Dreier translates as "the three item".
> 
> Basically German shorthand for all things 3.


I wonder if that's how it snuck into non-car vernacular, too? After all, I've heard plenty of people refer to a 5 dollar bill as a 'fiver'.


----------



## Insomniax (Jul 22, 2005)

Ah, no.

We've been using the terms "fiver" and "tenner" for years on this side of the pond, you lot are just catching up!


----------



## mx425 (Nov 11, 2010)

Give me a run down of all these coilover terms I hear. Helper, threads left etc.


----------



## Tripicana (Dec 17, 2004)

why does the price of fuel end with 9/10ths of a cent?


----------



## MAC (Dec 9, 1999)

Tripicana said:


> why does the price of fuel end with 9/10ths of a cent?


Well, they drop the fraction into an account. Not whole cents, just fractions. That way its not stealing.


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)




----------



## IC AI (Aug 29, 2008)

My Passat has an electric parking brake. What happens if I hit the button going 40mph. Does it engage, or is there something to prevent it?


----------



## 557688 (Aug 21, 2010)

IC AI said:


> My Passat has an electric parking brake. What happens if I hit the button going 40mph. Does it engage, or is there something to prevent it?


only one way to find out.


----------



## Denniswhat (Sep 12, 2007)

I'm sure it would not engage. Go slow and try it.


----------



## IC AI (Aug 29, 2008)

It does engage at 4-5mph, and stops the car rather abruptly... so I don't want to try it at speeds that are any higher! But I _am_ curious...


----------



## 557688 (Aug 21, 2010)

IC AI said:


> It does engage at 4-5mph, and stops the car rather abruptly... so I don't want to try it at speeds that are any higher! But I _am_ curious...


Well, you wont find out until you try it. Kind of like coke.


----------



## euromaxituning (May 30, 2004)

Once in a while I read about blinker fluid related issues but I searched and haven't found the root cause for this or any proper DIY's of how to fix this.


----------



## tip (Aug 8, 2008)

IC AI said:


> My Passat has an electric parking brake. What happens if I hit the button going 40mph. Does it engage, or is there something to prevent it?


Your Passat will go into a full ABS panic stop. Try it (in a parking lot, of course!)


----------



## Preppy (May 3, 2001)

Why aren't big highway trucks diesel electric like train engines or quarry trucks?


----------



## Vee-Dubber-GLI (Nov 27, 2006)

This is due to a recent issue I had: Are all timing belts the nightmare that my 1.8T is? And on a related note, am I the only one that's screwed one up? Tried to save on labor by having a buddy help me and we were off by a bit, but both of us being sick, we didn't realize it. :banghead: Even with new valve/head job, I'm saving money compared to dealership, but I still feel stupid as hell...


----------



## ordpetegti (May 20, 2004)

Preppy said:


> Why aren't big highway trucks diesel electric like train engines or quarry trucks?



Have you ever seen a train try and merge onto a highway? Talk about lane hog!!


----------



## Benjamin. (Nov 13, 2001)

Vee-Dubber-GLI said:


> This is due to a recent issue I had: Are all timing belts the nightmare that my 1.8T is? And on a related note, am I the only one that's screwed one up? Tried to save on labor by having a buddy help me and we were off by a bit, but both of us being sick, we didn't realize it. :banghead: Even with new valve/head job, I'm saving money compared to dealership, but I still feel stupid as hell...


If an engine is interference, i.e. the pistons and valves overlap into the same space at different times as the engine turns - then yes, timing being off can/will cause damage as things try to occupy the same space at the same time. 

There are many non-interference engines out there (pistons do not overlap with the valvetrain) - VW 8v is one common example - where if you snap a timing belt, you just slap a new one on (timed correctly of course) and continue on your merry way. If you mistimed one of these motors putting the new belt on, it would either run like crap or not at all - but once you fixed the timing, the motor would run fine.


----------



## tip (Aug 8, 2008)

Vee-Dubber-GLI said:


> This is due to a recent issue I had: Are all timing belts the nightmare that my 1.8T is? And on a related note, am I the only one that's screwed one up? Tried to save on labor by having a buddy help me and we were off by a bit, but both of us being sick, we didn't realize it. :banghead: Even with new valve/head job, I'm saving money compared to dealership, but I still feel stupid as hell...


Don't feel stupid, they are pretty challenging. They just take practice, and just getting all those little tricks to add up together collectively- then you got it.

One good trick I learned is to stick a 7mm socket (or around there) under the tensioner to temporarily "tension" the belt. Spin the motor around twice, then recheck. Then when you pull the damper pin, you KNOW the marks will be on. :beer:


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## IC AI (Aug 29, 2008)

tip said:


> Your Passat will go into a full ABS panic stop. Try it (in a parking lot, of course!)


I think I will just take your word for it, and will try to remember it if I ever need to make such a stop!

On a related note, my (manual) car as an "auto-hold" feature, whereby if I come to a full stop in neutral, the e-brake engages. 
Question: what happens if I have auto-hold on, and I start slipping on the ice and lock the wheels. When I get off the ice, will the e-brake release? Or should I just not use the auto-hold when driving in icy conditions?


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## Vee-Dubber-GLI (Nov 27, 2006)

Benjamin. said:


> If an engine is interference, i.e. the pistons and valves overlap into the same space at different times as the engine turns - then yes, timing being off can/will cause damage as things try to occupy the same space at the same time.


 Yeah, I have to get a valve job now... :banghead:



tip said:


> Don't feel stupid, they are pretty challenging. They just take practice, and just getting all those little tricks to add up together collectively- then you got it.
> 
> One good trick I learned is to stick a 7mm socket (or around there) under the tensioner to temporarily "tension" the belt. Spin the motor around twice, then recheck. Then when you pull the damper pin, you KNOW the marks will be on. :beer:


It was my first one, we had the FAQs on here up on my laptop out there, all to no avail. Lol. :facepalm:


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## tehAndy (Oct 12, 2005)

How will I ever be as awesome as this:










while I'm driving my car?


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## pueblorrado v3.0 (Nov 22, 2006)

jddaigle said:


> This. A "Coil Pack" (VAG VR6 configuration) puts all of the coils in one "package" and runs high voltage cables to all the cylinders. The other way to do it is to put a coil on each plug (VAG 1.8T and most other modern distributor-less engine configuration), controlled by the ECU via low-voltage cables as described above.
> 
> Using "coil" and "coil pack" interchangeably (especially when the user is smearing the reliability of certain VAG engine ignition systems without ever having owned or driven one) is one of my pet peaves.


this is the most accurate. 

now on the VR6, at least the OBDI version, it was a waste spark system, 3 coils, 6 terminals (one positive and one negative) per coil, one per cylinder. for each combustion event the computer would actually fire two spark plugs. the two are companion cylinders, one approaching top dead center exhaust, one coming up on TDC compression . hence the wasted spark on the exhaust. 

each pair of spark outputs (output/input technically) and their common coil were packaged in to one part, this is the coilpack. 

on a 1.8t they use coil on plug ignition (COP or COPI), wherein the coil/transformer is mounted atop the spark plug, so each cylinder is individually controlled, and powered, without a distributor (replaced by the powertrain control module) 

fun fact: the OBDI VR6 with the waste spark system still had the ability to control spark advance for individual cylinders based on feedback from the knock sensors. it would change the timing advance/retard alternatively between firings to accomodate miniscule changes in operating conditions.


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## mike_A3 (Jun 30, 2008)

CoolWhiteWolfsburg said:


> No RWD/4WD, no truck!


I beg to differ. Can't find the pic of when we moved from WV to Ohio, 2 dirt bikes, 2 MTBs 2 road bikes, 2 BMX bikes all in the bed, pulling a volumetrically loaded 6x10 enclosed trailer through the hills of WV.

Houston to Central Indiana









Across the width of Indiana









All over Ohio and WV


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

mx425 said:


> Give me a run down of all these coilover terms I hear. Helper, threads left etc.


Helper spring: Keeps the coilover spring loaded by applying tension when the spring has no load (for example, when the car is on a lift, or--in cases of extreme badassery--airborne.

"Threads left": Coilovers have threaded sleeves that so you can adjust the ride height. You can visually count the number of threads that remain below the adjustable ring. It's a relative measurement of ride height. "Yo, I got my H&R ultra-lows wound down so there's only 2 threads left. S**t's hellaflush!"


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## pueblorrado v3.0 (Nov 22, 2006)

ridgelines were sold in FWD configurations? are they all FWD? 

thats.... well.... not surprising i suppose. explains why the "S3000" is rumored to be FWD


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## Turq (Nov 9, 2001)

pueblorrado v3.0 said:


> ridgelines were sold in FWD configurations? are they all FWD?
> 
> thats.... well.... not surprising i suppose. explains why the "S3000" is rumored to be FWD


Yes, and no. In that order.


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## IC AI (Aug 29, 2008)

Does a sports car's (like a GT3) suspension bottom out during a hard turn? How much of that added rigidity contribute to the maximum G's a car can turn at?


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## vbot (Nov 25, 2009)

i got a question.

with an auto trans, is it bad to shift from D to N, or 3 to D or anything like that while the car is in motion? i know its possible, just wondering if its damaging to the car? sorry im completely ignorant as to how autos really work. thanks.


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

vbot said:


> i got a question.
> 
> with an auto trans, is it bad to shift from D to N, or 3 to D or anything like that while the car is in motion? i know its possible, just wondering if its damaging to the car? sorry im completely ignorant as to how autos really work. thanks.


If you're not on the gas it's okay. But when your are reving the engine in neutral and then tell it to shift then it puts strain on the transmission. Like doing a clutch drop while you're driving a manual. It's not good. If you try it you will feel a huge jolt as the car tries to engage the right gear. 

As for shifting from 3 to D it depends if you're accelarating hard. 3 just means the car will only shift to 3rd gear. And D uses all gears. If you are at max RPM in 3 and then push up to D there may be some risk of damage.


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## mike_A3 (Jun 30, 2008)

pueblorrado v3.0 said:


> ridgelines were sold in FWD configurations? are they all FWD?
> 
> thats.... well.... not surprising i suppose. explains why the "S3000" is rumored to be FWD


Front wheel drive or 4X4, same engine (mounted the same way) as a V6 Accord, Acura TL etc.

Every ridgeline has the same drive train, one of my favorite traits when I was looking for my used one, the only difference in trim levels is Base, +Climate Control, +Leather+Nav+Sunroof. 

Front wheels are on all the time, rears kick in via a clutched rear diff that can either LSD or lock. 

from wiki
The Honda Ridgeline Won the Baja 1000 (November 6) in the Stock Mini Class. All vehicles in the Stock Mini Class compete with a stock engine, transmission and 4WD system.[3]
Motor Trend truck of the year 2006
North American Truck of the year 2006
Detroit News truck of the year 2006
Consumer Reports top rated truck
J.D. Power & Associates 2005 APEAL award for the Honda Ridgeline
Autobytel 2006 Editors' Choice Award: Truck of the year 2006
Automobile Journalists Association of Canada (AJAC) Best New Pickup 2006


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## roflingsam (Apr 12, 2008)

mellbergVWfan said:


> If you're not on the gas it's okay. But when your are reving the engine in neutral and then tell it to shift then it puts strain on the transmission. Like doing a clutch drop while you're driving a manual. It's not good. If you try it you will feel a huge jolt as the car tries to engage the right gear.
> 
> As for shifting from 3 to D it depends if you're accelarating hard. 3 just means the car will only shift to 3rd gear. And D uses all gears. If you are at max RPM in 3 and then push up to D there may be some risk of damage.


really? when my friend wanted to change gears in his own automatic car he would shift from 1-2, 2-3 and so on all the time.


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## silverA4quattro (Jun 22, 2004)

tip said:


> Your Passat will go into a full ABS panic stop. Try it (in a parking lot, of course!)


Nah, you have to hold it for that to happen. It's described in the manual.


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## tip (Aug 8, 2008)

silverA4quattro said:


> Nah, you have to hold it for that to happen. It's described in the manual.


Nah, it will go into a panic stop as long as the button is depressed. Get it?


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

tip said:


> Nah, it will go into a panic stop as long as the button is depressed. Get it?


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## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

As much as modern cars cost to repair after even relatively low speed impacts- why haven't they started putting airbags on the outside?


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

What _does_ happen when you tow something that's beyond the capacity of the tow vehicle? Say your Ranger is rated to pull 3,500 pounds and you try to pull a wood + steel trailer carrying a fiull size car... in total weighing about 6,000 pounds or so.

It's not just going to sit there and do burnouts, right?


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## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

Assle said:


> What _does_ happen when you tow something that's beyond the capacity of the tow vehicle? Say your Ranger is rated to pull 3,500 pounds and you try to pull a wood + steel trailer carrying a fiull size car... in total weighing about 6,000 pounds or so.
> 
> It's not just going to sit there and do burnouts, right?


Tow ratings are based on the differential and transmission design loads.

If you are very careful (and have trailer brakes)- you can tow a lot more than the rating.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

BRealistic said:


> Tow ratings are based on the differential and transmission design loads.



Body/Frame structure and brakes have nothing to do with it?


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

Surf Green said:


> Body/Frame structure and brakes have nothing to do with it?


Yes they do


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

MustacheGT said:


> Yes they do


That's why I mentioned it... the ****-rag models, with differing engines and trannies, all have the same tow rating. So it's more than just the drive-train.


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## SpecialFX (Aug 20, 2006)

BRealistic said:


> As much as modern cars cost to repair after even relatively low speed impacts- why haven't they started putting airbags on the outside?


The airbags inside a car only deploy once a collision has been detected. I if the same technology was used on the outside, the damage would already be done before the car knew they needed to deploy.

Also it would have a negative impact on crash safety. It would effectively void the effects of the crumple zones. The longer time it takes the energy of the crash to be absorbed, the less g forces (and thus less injuries) that the occupants sustain. If airbags went off, it's liek a crumple zone, but in reverse, so it would lessen the time it takes for the energy of the collision to be absorbed and teh occupants will sustain more injuries. In short the reason cars sustain so much damage in a crash is that the car is made to be sacrificed for the sake of the occupants and airbags on the outside would reverse that.


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## motronicmalfunction (Aug 26, 2002)

Regarding certain smells of a gas-powered vehicle's exhaust fumes:

I've always had a hard time with determining how well a engine is running by exhaust fume smells...

I've had cars where the exhaust fumes are so horribly noxious, you want to run away and hide just from being in the general vicinity. No carbon deposits around the tailpipe or abnormal driving operation, normal fuel consumption, etc. Car turned out to be running very lean.

At the same time, I had a different car with a failing maf, horrible running operation, high fuel consumption, turned the ass-end of the car black with carbon deposits...running rich, right? The exhaust fumes smelled exactly the same as the lean-running car.

Both car's catalytic converters were in good condition, so I'm not after the whole "rotten eggs/sulfur smell = failed cat" thing.

What does a vehicle that is running excessively lean smell like?

What does a vehicle that is running excessively rich smell like?


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## tip (Aug 8, 2008)

motronicmalfunction said:


> Regarding certain smells of a gas-powered vehicle's exhaust fumes:
> 
> I've always had a hard time with determining how well a engine is running by exhaust fume smells...
> 
> ...


that's what they have 5gas analyzers for, so you don't have to kill braincells sniffing exhaust :thumbup:

In my experience, I can never tell the correct state of a car by its smell... you can guess, but why?


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## silverA4quattro (Jun 22, 2004)

tip said:


> Nah, it will go into a panic stop as long as the button is depressed. Get it?


Funny, I never tried it...but it specifically says in the manual that you must depress it for 3 seconds (or something). Unfortunately I no longer have the Passat so I can't try it.

Do you speak from experience? This thread has a couple theories: http://www.passatworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=272412


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## tip (Aug 8, 2008)

silverA4quattro said:


> Do you speak from experience?


Yes, I was factory trained on that Passat. Our instructor advised us to try it in the parking lot, so we did. I never tried just pressing it real quick, though, if that's what you're getting at.


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## silverA4quattro (Jun 22, 2004)

tip said:


> Yes, I was factory trained on that Passat. Our instructor advised us to try it in the parking lot, so we did. I never tried just pressing it real quick, though, if that's what you're getting at.



I'm not going to argue with you, but here is what my friend and service advisor pulled up. Just want to make sure we have correct info for the person asking.

“If necessary, the Electronic Parking Brake can also be used as and emergency brake.



At speeds over 5 miles per hour, the driver must push and hold the EPB button. As long as he does so, ABS will be activated on all four wheels until the car drops below 5MPH. That that time, ABS will stop and Electronic Parking Brake will set the brakes on the two back wheels.



If the car is going less than 5MPH, the driver just presses the EPB button and Electronic Parking Brake will set the brakes on the two back wheels.”



From VWWebsource Technology Explained section.


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## tip (Aug 8, 2008)

Not trying to argue either, just not seeing what you're getting at. We are both saying the same thing.

Original question:



> What happens if I hit the button going 40mph. Does it engage, or is there something to prevent it?


*edit: my bad, he said "hit" the button - I guess I read that differently...


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## motronicmalfunction (Aug 26, 2002)

tip said:


> that's what they have 5gas analyzers for, so you don't have to kill braincells sniffing exhaust :thumbup:
> 
> In my experience, I can never tell the correct state of a car by its smell... you can guess, but why?


I should've put some kind of disclamier in my post...I'm not huffing exhaust. Sometimes you can just smell it, and not by choice. From being around it when idling and immediately after exiting car upon shutdown, etc. It's a good way to tell, on accident, that your crap ain't runnin' right.


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## Singularity (Jul 3, 2010)

alright, another question i pose. what are gear ratios, and what is the purpose they fulfill?


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## pueblorrado v3.0 (Nov 22, 2006)

How familiar am I with Johnsonville Deli Bites?


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## ByronLLN (Jul 29, 2004)

Singularity said:


> alright, another question i pose. what are gear ratios, and what is the purpose they fulfill?


Gears convert the rotation of your engine into the rotation of your wheels. 

Your car has two sets of gears (at least): One in the transmission and one in the differential of the drive axle. If you have two drive axles (AWD or 4WD), you have three gearsets. 

Each of these sets has a specific job to do. The transmission's job is to convert the rotation of your crankshaft into rotation of the propshaft, jack shaft, intermediate shaft or whatever runs between your transmission and your differential. The differential's job is to convert that rotation into rotation of your driven wheels (the individual axle shafts or drive shafts). 

Gear ratios describe the relationship between the input speed and output speed for each of those gearsets. Ratios are expressed as Input Speed:Output speed. If it's a single number (i.e., "0.943"), that means the Output Speed is 1.0 (ratio of 0.943:1), which means there are 0.943 revolutions on the input side for every 1 revolution on the output side. 

So, assuming your car has a manual transmission in good working order, the relationship between your engine speed and your wheel speed is fixed. Your car goes X miles an hour when you're in Yth gear and your engine is spinning Z RPM. 

Made-up example of a hypothetical car:
Vehicle speed: 25mph
Gear: 2
Engine RPM: 4000

The above will always be true no matter what. If you're in second gear and turning 4k RPM, you will go 25mph. 4000 RPM is a little buzzy, so you'll probably want to shift into third gear. Here's the result:

Vehicle speed: 25mph
Gear: 3
Engine RPM: 2900

Much better, right? And just like the first example, those numbers will always be true. There's no way to go 25mph in 3rd gear while spinning the engine at 6500 RPM. Impossible. There's a mathematical relationship between the engine speed, gearing, and wheel (vehicle) speed. And it's an easy relationship. It's all multiplication. 

To determine wheel speed, you just take the engine speed, multiply it by (1/the ratio for the gear you're in), multiply that by (1/ the final drive ratio) (the rear end/differential ratio) and voila, wheel speed, in rotations per minute. 

You then need the circumference of your driven wheels in order to convert it to miles/hour, but that's pretty easy too. 

Take the circumference (in inches) and multiply it by the rotations you got above. That gives you total inches traveled per minute. Divide that by 12 to get feet. Divide that by 5280 to get miles. You now have total miles traveled per minute. Multiply this by 60. You now have miles driven per hour. 

(Full disclosure: I got a degree in communications. Terminology above may not be physics-friendly. Feel free to correct me).


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## NEP (Sep 12, 2003)

Stop signs with a white outline are optional right?


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## Singularity (Jul 3, 2010)

PassSedanGLX said:


> Gears convert the rotation of your engine into the rotation of your wheels.
> 
> Your car has two sets of gears (at least): One in the transmission and one in the differential of the drive axle. If you have two drive axles (AWD or 4WD), you have three gearsets.
> 
> ...


thank you sir, im going to keep this, and memorize it.


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## ByronLLN (Jul 29, 2004)

Singularity said:


> thank you sir, im going to keep this, and memorize it.


It's a fairly simplistic explanation. Howstuffworks probably has a much more user-friendly and in-depth version.


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## Singularity (Jul 3, 2010)

PassSedanGLX said:


> It's a fairly simplistic explanation. Howstuffworks probably has a much more user-friendly and in-depth version.


 i've been looking for information regarding gear ratios, but i havent checked there yet. the main thing im really trying to learn is what changes in gear ratios actually does, like with the new mustangs offering 3.73 rear axels and if that has anything to do with gear ratios.


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## ByronLLN (Jul 29, 2004)

Singularity said:


> i've been looking for information regarding gear ratios, but i havent checked there yet. the main thing im really trying to learn is what changes in gear ratios actually does, like with the new mustangs offering 3.73 rear axels and if that has anything to do with gear ratios.



The higher number is more aggressive. 

I just realized though that there's an error in my explanation. When I said it's all multiplication, I sort of lied. It's all division, but it can be done as multiplication... if that makes sense. I was working backwards in my head compared to what I was writing, and completely threw myself off. 

Once you have wheel speed, then the rest of my description is right. I fixed it, I think. 

God, it's been too long since I took a math class.


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## Singularity (Jul 3, 2010)

PassSedanGLX said:


> The higher number is more aggressive.
> 
> I just realized though that there's an error in my explanation. When I said it's all multiplication, I sort of lied. It's all division, but it can be done as multiplication... if that makes sense. I was working backwards in my head compared to what I was writing, and completely threw myself off.
> 
> ...


its alright, i understand. but what do you mean by more aggressive gearing? would that affect the acceleration or something?


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## dunhamjr (May 21, 2002)

Singularity said:


> its alright, i understand. but what do you mean by more aggressive gearing? would that affect the acceleration or something?


not sure if i am saying it quite correctly but...
more aggressive in the sense that there is less reduction in engine speed to wheel speed.

so a 4.44 gear will be spinning a higher RPM at the same speed vs a 3.73 gear.

a 4.44 gear at 60mph might be hitting 4500 rpm while the same car with 3.73 gears would be lower like 3800... (did do any actual math)


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## tip (Aug 8, 2008)

what I think he means by "aggressive" gearing is "low" gearing.


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## 557688 (Aug 21, 2010)

NEP said:


> Stop signs with a white outline are optional right?


:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

NEP said:


> Stop signs with a white outline are optional right?


They are called "Stoptional".
You know this is true because the Police just roll right through those ones.


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## ByronLLN (Jul 29, 2004)

Singularity said:


> its alright, i understand. but what do you mean by more aggressive gearing? would that affect the acceleration or something?


These guys got it:



dunhamjr said:


> not sure if i am saying it quite correctly but...
> more aggressive in the sense that there is less reduction in engine speed to wheel speed.
> 
> so a 4.44 gear will be spinning a higher RPM at the same speed vs a 3.73 gear.
> ...





tip said:


> what I think he means by "aggressive" gearing is "low" gearing.


Right. I'd use the word "shorter" to describe it though since that's how the lingo usually works. :thumbup:

So let's use the 2011 Mustang V6 as an example, this time with real numbers. 

Here's the Mustang's 6-Speed Manual gear ratio chart:
1st gear: 4.236
2nd gear: 2.538
3rd gear: 1.665
4th gear: 1.238
5th gear: 1.00
6th gear: 0.70

Final drive (rear end): 2.73 (standard), 3.31 (optional).

We're going to say for the sake of this example that you're cruising along a back road with the car in third gear with the engine at 4500 RPM. You're a cheap bastard, so you got the 2.73:1 rear end. How fast are we going?

Vehicle speed: Unknown
Gear: 3rd
Engine RPM: 4500

So, let's plug it in:

Engine Speed x (1/gear ratio) x (1/rear-end ratio) = Wheel speed. 

4500 x (1/1.665) x (1/2.73) = 990 (rounded) wheel rotations per minute. 

We also know the Mustang V6 has 17 inch wheels with 225/60R17 Pirellis. I went here to get a circumference: http://www.csgnetwork.com/tiresizescalc.html. It's ballpark, as not all tire sizes are created equal, but it's good enough for us. 

Wheel circumference: 86.802 inches. 

So, one rotation of the wheel corresponds to 86.802 inches traveled. We're doing 990 inches per minute, so we multiply. 

circumference x rotations = total distance covered per minute (in inches). 

86.802 x 990 = 85933.98 inches/ minute. 

What is that in feet? Simple. 12 inches to a foot. Divide it by 12. 

inches / 12 = feet

85933.98 / 12 = 7161.165 ft per minute. 

So now we have feet per minute. That's great, but not too helpful. We know we're going faster than 60 mph, because that would be one mile per minute, or 5280 ft/minute. We're probably speeding. 

So, to get it into miles per minute, we divide by 5280. 

feet / 5280 = miles

7161.165 / 5280 = 1.35628125

1.356 miles per minute. We want hours. Multiply by 60 (60 minutes in one hour). 

miles per minute x 60 minutes = miles per hour

1.35628125 x 60 = *81.376875 miles per hour. * Watch for cops. 

Now, I'm going to do it again for the 3.31 rear end. I'm not going to break it down this time, so you'll just have to trust my math. This is the only thing we're changing:

Engine Speed x (1/gear ratio) x *(1/rear-end ratio)* = Wheel speed. 

4500 x (1/1.665) x (1/*3.31*) = *(817)* wheel rotations per minute. 

Same tire size, etc, so:

86.802 x 816 = 70830.432 inches/minute. 

= 5902.536 feet/minute

= 1.1179045454545454545454545454545 miles/minute

= 67.074 miles/hour. 

So, with 2.73s, you're doing 81mph, and with 3.31s, you're doing 67mph at the same engine speed. 

End part one.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

tip said:


> that's what they have 5gas analyzers for, so you don't have to kill braincells sniffing exhaust :thumbup:
> 
> In my experience, I can never tell the correct state of a car by its smell... you can guess, but why?


Most of the time a properly-running modern car's exhaust has little odor after it's warmed up. But I've noticed a particular smell when I'm behind a car that is obviously running at WOT (full throttle away from a light, or passing on a two-lane road). It kind of smells like burning hair to me. Anybody else notice this?

Also I have noticed that my new Ranger puts out significantly less soot/particulates than my Honda or Hyundai. The inside of the Ranger's exhaust tip is still shiny bare steel after 5000 miles; my Honda and Hyundai both have dark black sooty ones.


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## tip (Aug 8, 2008)

from my experience:

"shorter" gearing = drag/strip lingo

"low" gearing = 4x4 lingo

nice explanation of the numbers :thumbup:


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Related to the gears and axle ratios: here is a really handy calculator you can use to figure out what speed a car's engine'll be turning at various speeds in various gears. I used it a lot when doing new-car research because I didn't want another car that turned 4100 RPM at 80 MPH like my old Civic Si did.

http://f-body.org/gears/


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## Singularity (Jul 3, 2010)

PassSedanGLX said:


> These guys got it:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


wow, i appreciate that wholeheartedly, better than what i could find in internet research. thanks man.


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## Dubbin84GTi (Mar 25, 2008)

why is there a red mark at 65 mph on a 87 mk2 spedo?!?!??! i have always wondered


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## 557688 (Aug 21, 2010)

Dubbin84GTi said:


> why is there a red mark at 65 mph on a 87 mk2 spedo?!?!??! i have always wondered


Sell Destruct.


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## feels_road (Jan 27, 2005)

SpecialFX said:


> The airbags inside a car only deploy once a collision has been detected. I if the same technology was used on the outside, the damage would already be done before the car knew they needed to deploy.
> 
> Also it would have a negative impact on crash safety. It would effectively void the effects of the crumple zones. The longer time it takes the energy of the crash to be absorbed, the less g forces (and thus less injuries) that the occupants sustain. If airbags went off, it's liek a crumple zone, but in reverse, so it would lessen the time it takes for the energy of the collision to be absorbed and teh occupants will sustain more injuries. In short the reason cars sustain so much damage in a crash is that the car is made to be sacrificed for the sake of the occupants and airbags on the outside would reverse that.


I don't buy this. With today's use of radar for adaptive cruise control and driver warning, such-equipped cars would know of an impending frontal collision and could employ frontal (and, similarly, rear) airbags perfectly timed such that they are fully inflated at impact. In which case they would absorb a substantial amount of the energy.

However, such bags would likely be costly and big and ungainly to do their job properly - and multiply cost by four or more to protect all exposed sides (save roof). The car's design and aerodynamics would also suffer, since such bags would have to be mounted high, yet on heavy structural members, to protect against SUV collisions.


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## DedRok (Feb 16, 2004)

What are these used for and what are they? I see them in many high end race cars.


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## OG (Mar 19, 2000)

Ducting for oil coolers??


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## volkstyle (May 11, 2010)

Why does my GTI wheel hop?

Ever since I have gone stg 1, when I am in 1st and sometimes 2nd and punch it the dam thing hops :banghead: is there anything I can do to get rid of that ?


----------



## 557688 (Aug 21, 2010)

DedRok said:


> What are these used for and what are they? I see them in many high end race cars.





OG said:


> Ducting for oil coolers??


IVe always wondered this as well. I know it is ducting for cooling, but not sure what its cooling.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Mr Miyagi said:


> IVe always wondered this as well. I know it is ducting for cooling, but not sure what its cooling.


That particular car is AWD, so I'm guessing all those tubes are cooling the rear dif, as well as the brakes.

Since we're talking about that car, the video reminded me of a car question I've always had. On drag cars, what is the steam/air venting they do before a run? Usually two PFFT PFFFT jets of air or steam shoot out of the cowl. I've seen it on drag bikes too. Whazzat??

Shown here at around 1:16


----------



## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

Dubbin84GTi said:


> why is there a red mark at 65 mph on a 87 mk2 spedo?!?!??! i have always wondered


They marked the max speed limit of the time per the National Maximum Speed Law.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_Maximum_Speed_Law

Many vehicles of the 70s and 80s had a special 55 number.

The max speed limit went up to 65 for 1987.. so they may have made some with a special 65 number for 87/88.


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## ironmule (Apr 11, 2008)

Mr Miyagi said:


> IVe always wondered this as well. I know it is ducting for cooling, but not sure what its cooling.


 rear mounted radiator


----------



## tip (Aug 8, 2008)

MrMook said:


> Since we're talking about that car, the video reminded me of a car question I've always had. On drag cars, what is the steam/air venting they do before a run? Usually two PFFT PFFFT jets of air or steam shoot out of the cowl. I've seen it on drag bikes too. Whazzat??
> 
> Shown here at around 1:16


Does it have something to do with venting or checking the pressurized nitrous system or ?


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

tip said:


> Does it have something to do with venting or checking the pressurized nitrous system or ?


This.

I believe that would be purging the nitrous system before the run.


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## 1.8Tquattro (Aug 13, 2006)

MrMook said:


> Since we're talking about that car, the video reminded me of a car question I've always had. On drag cars, what is the steam/air venting they do before a run? Usually two PFFT PFFFT jets of air or steam shoot out of the cowl. I've seen it on drag bikes too. Whazzat??



Wiki:


> Fans can easily identify nitrous-equipped cars at the track by the fact that most will "purge" the delivery system prior to reaching the starting line. A separate electrically operated valve is used to release air and gaseous nitrous oxide trapped in the delivery system. This brings liquid nitrous oxide all the way up through the plumbing from the storage tank to the solenoid valve or valves that will release it into the engine's intake tract. When the purge system is activated, one or more plumes of nitrous oxide will be visible for a moment as the liquid flashes to vapor as it is released. The purpose of a nitrous purge is to ensure that the correct amount of nitrous oxide is delivered the moment the system is activated as nitrous and fuel jets are sized to produce correct air / fuel ratio's, and as liquid nitrous is denser than gaseous nitrous, any nitrous vapour in the lines will cause the car to "bog" for an instant (as the ratio of nitrous / fuel will be too rich) until liquid nitrous oxide reaches the intake.


I have no idea if this is right, but it seems reasonable enough.


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## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

Euro plates....

I've noticed on Wheeler Dealers that every (UK) number plate is applied with nasty sticky foam tape, which is an absolute mess to clean up when they are removed.



Why do people think Euro plates are so cool when they are such a pain and may even damage the paint when removed?


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## VarianceVQ (Jun 26, 2005)

What's the purpose of the hanging chains underneath some buses and trucks?


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## 557688 (Aug 21, 2010)

VarianceVQ said:


> What's the purpose of the hanging chains underneath some buses and trucks?


Ive always wondered that, until now.

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Why_do_school_buses_have_chains_on_the_undercarriage


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

VarianceVQ said:


> What's the purpose of the hanging chains underneath some buses and trucks?


I haven't seen that, but it's likely to remove a buildup of static charge as silicone in tires has gone up to make them last longer, but it doesn't let the buildup of static get released. Chains/cables would release that buildup so that passengers wouldn't get zapped upon entry/exit.

Can't say for sure, but it's likely. :beer:


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

Mr Miyagi said:


> Ive always wondered that, until now.
> 
> http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Why_do_school_buses_have_chains_on_the_undercarriage


Hmmmm. I've never seen that. That's why I supposed on my last post! 

There are rubber/metal strips that hang under a car to do as I was saying, which is why I posted that. :beer:


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## 1.8TRabbit (Nov 15, 2004)

Why was the color Orange used for turn signals? Red for Brake Lights and White for head lights?:screwy:


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

1.8TRabbit said:


> Why was the color Orange used for turn signals?


Don't know. Probably to differentiate from the brake lights initially. But now most turn signals are integrated with the brake lights now. 



> Red for Brake Lights and White for head lights?:screwy:


These should be fairly obvious. Red always means stop or danger in our society. And white is usually the best illuminator.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

also, it has to do with the wavelength of the color, too.

red makes for an easy pinpoint, as it's a shorter wavelength and doesn't "spill" over a whole lot. so if you're in some fog, severe rain, or snow it's supposed to be easier to pinpoint where the car ahead of you is if they've got the rear fog light on or if they're stopped. white light (or blue) scatters more, so it would be harder to tell where that point actually is.


this is also why you'll see emergency vehicles and/or LEO use red and blue.

the blue light scatters all over, and our human eyes pick up more of it so we know something's going on nearby, and the red lights allow you to pinpoint exactly where it is because of its wavelength.


at least, that's what a physics professor taught us in highschool. it's also completely possible he BSed the hell out of us in a way that made sense. :laugh:


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## 1.8TRabbit (Nov 15, 2004)

^^ :thumbup::beer:


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## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

How can modern cars have such amazingly safe crumple zones and yet also have such tightly packed engine bays?


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## ByronLLN (Jul 29, 2004)

Singularity said:


> wow, i appreciate that wholeheartedly, better than what i could find in internet research. thanks man.


Sure thing. The other half of the story is explaining how a more aggressive (shorter/lower) gear means you accelerate faster, after all it means you're going slower for a given engine speed, but that requires a vocabulary beyond my high school level math. That's all moments and forces and mechanical advantage and that sort of stuff, and I barely paid enough attention in physics to sneak out a C.


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## NEP (Sep 12, 2003)

> PMBRealistic
> How can modern cars have such amazingly safe crumple zones and yet also have such tightly packed engine bays?


I thought about this too. Do new cars have the engine and transmission drop in the case of a head on collision? Which would help with maybe creating space for the crumple zone? Or is the chassis and the frame built to have certain sections give out?


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## GahannaKid (May 24, 2004)

What's the advantage of using a small air filter instead of the standard PCV valve?


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

BRealistic said:


> How can modern cars have such amazingly safe crumple zones and yet also have such tightly packed engine bays?





NEP said:


> I thought about this too. Do new cars have the engine and transmission drop in the case of a head on collision? Which would help with maybe creating space for the crumple zone? Or is the chassis and the frame built to have certain sections give out?


It depends on the specific design of the vehicle in question.

Space frames basically allow for body panels to be mounted on them, creating areas where there's "space" but also allowing for structural rigidity. Also built into these sections, are parts that are designed to "crumple" and absorb impact so that it is dispersed in a manner that allows for the stiff section of the frame (typically the passenger compartment) to remain intact and distort as little as possible.

in certain applications, this may mean that an engine assembly may shift in location during the course of an impact. one of the most notable examples of this is in the smart car. in the case of a low rear impact, the engine compartment is actually designed to crumple forward and underneath the vehicle, thereby maintaining as much of the cabin intact as possible.

think of it like this: you want to create an area of cushion on the outside to soften the blow, while maintaining a hard shell around you so that you don't get crushed. it's basically those gradeschool experiments where you have an egg you need to drop from a predetermined height without making an omelet. the best designs soften impact while protecting the shell.

the "tightness" of an engine bay really has more to do with the packaging of the drivetrain, since in most modern cars you want to increase passenger capacity for comfort. 

i guess the easiest way to think of it is the passenger compartment is the hard case you ride in, the rest of the car (engine compartment included) is the soft absorbing pillow around you to help soften the impact.


please note, i'm not an engineer or anything close to it. but this is how it was explained to us in highschool by that same physics professor. the level of BS may vary, and it may even be completely inaccurate, but it made sense at the time.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

GahannaKid said:


> What's the advantage of using a small air filter instead of the standard PCV valve?


I'm not sure there is an advantage.

Basically, that style allows the crankcase gases to vent to atmosphere. This would also include any kind of oil blow-by which may include exhaust gas and even unburned fuel.

I think that the only reason you even see that type of PCV valve bypass is because under certain circumstances, some aftermarket air intake systems eliminate the PCV system completely. And since this leaves the vent system open to the environment, gases may both exit _or enter_ the crankcase depending on conditions. so a small filter is put in place since it doesn't do much for exiting air, but it ensures that air that may _enter_ the crankcase (again, depending on conditions) isn't bringing in any outside debris (dust, sand, dirt, etc).

it's basically a modern road draft tube but with a filter element in case the pressure outside is greater than the pressure inside the crankcase and stuff gets sucked in. you'll know it's only clean air and not road junk.

caveat, again... i might be wrong. but it makes sense.


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## ironmule (Apr 11, 2008)

CSB? what is it?


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

ironmule said:


> CSB? what is it?


internet meme.

basically, someone creates a thread telling a story that really isn't a beginning to a discussion or for opinion fielding. it's simply a recollection of events that may have no real point at all, and basically could be interpreted as someone who loves to read their own words on the screen (akin to hearing oneself speak, i suppose).

CSB = Cool Story, Bro.

once one of these posts is encountered, the meme takes over where other posters generally respond with "Cool Story, Bro" and all of the variations that may exist.


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## AllieJetta (Aug 31, 2003)

volkstyle said:


> Why does my GTI wheel hop?
> 
> Ever since I have gone stg 1, when I am in 1st and sometimes 2nd and punch it the dam thing hops :banghead: is there anything I can do to get rid of that ?


Either stiffer motor mounts or stiffer bushings in the front control arms / suspension


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## 1.8TRabbit (Nov 15, 2004)

AllieJetta said:


> Either stiffer motor mounts or stiffer bushings in the front control arms / suspension


Motor mounts have nothing to do with wheel hop. However, better bushing on the control arms will help. Also a better suspension will help and may want to look into traction control bars. :beer:


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## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

Since multigrade oil is thinner when cold and becomes thicker when warm, why not change the oil when the engine is cold? Wouldn't the thinner oil drain out faster?


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## volkstyle (May 11, 2010)

1.8TRabbit said:


> Motor mounts have nothing to do with wheel hop. However, better bushing on the control arms will help. Also a better suspension will help and may want to look into traction control bars. :beer:


any idea who makes good control arm bushings for an MKV?


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## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

cityjohn said:


> Since multigrade oil is thinner when cold and becomes thicker when warm, why not change the oil when the engine is cold? Wouldn't the thinner oil drain out faster?


You have it backwards.

Multi-grade oil is thinner when cold than single grade oil.. not thinner when cold than when hot. 

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/sae-grade-oil-d_1208.html


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

1.8TRabbit said:


> Motor mounts have nothing to do with wheel hop. However, better bushing on the control arms will help. Also a better suspension will help and may want to look into traction control bars. :beer:


That's interesting, because changing one motor mount on my GTI solved my wheel hop issues.


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## stascom (Sep 12, 2009)

How many times could you expect a transmission to handle gear grinds when shifting?


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## fatcow (Jan 28, 2010)

JUSTINCASE1021 said:


> What in gods name is a HAZMAT and why cant you take it into a tunnel???


In Austtalia it's valled HAZCHEM for Hazardous Chemical.


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## Gspot20 (Aug 21, 2010)

1.8TRabbit said:


> Motor mounts have nothing to do with wheel hop. However, better bushing on the control arms will help. Also a better suspension will help and may want to look into traction control bars. :beer:


You have that wrong.. In order to kill wheel hop in my car I had to put inserts in my mounts. Actually fixed many wheel-hoping cars like that


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## feels_road (Jan 27, 2005)

TwoLitreVW said:


> also, it has to do with the wavelength of the color, too.
> 
> red makes for an easy pinpoint, as it's a shorter wavelength and doesn't "spill" over a whole lot. so if you're in some fog, severe rain, or snow it's supposed to be easier to pinpoint where the car ahead of you is if they've got the rear fog light on or if they're stopped. white light (or blue) scatters more, so it would be harder to tell where that point actually is.
> 
> ...


Red is longer, not shorter wavelength. Most of this has to do with how we perceive colors from primordial times. Red = blood = danger = Mars = war = Betelgeuse. Blue = cool = cold sky/ocean but is a bit more difficult to focus, on. Green is the color our eyes are most susceptible to - so wee see it brightest at given output. Also, whether colors or their intensity or position can be distinguished by color-blind people plays a role in designing traffic lights/signs and the like.



BRealistic said:


> How can modern cars have such amazingly safe crumple zones and yet also have such tightly packed engine bays?


The engine _drops_ (on pre-designed rails/break-points), exposing the crumple zones.


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## tip (Aug 8, 2008)

feels_road said:


> Red is longer, not shorter wavelength.


This.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

meh... it was one or the other.

the principle is still the same, even if i got it backwards.


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## DzlDub (Aug 16, 2007)

Won't a brake stand destroy the rear brakes because you're hitting the brakes and gas at the same time? RWD car obviously.


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## WhitePoloCT (Jul 28, 2005)

DzlDub said:


> Won't a brake stand destroy the rear brakes because you're hitting the brakes and gas at the same time? RWD car obviously.


Brake bias on road cars isn't as strong on the rear brakes as the fronts, but yes, it will eventually mess up the rear breaks.


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## VanKid (May 10, 2008)

For example: a 4bar fuel pressure reg, what does the "bar" refer to? Unit of measurement for pressure or something like that?


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

VanKid said:


> For example: a 4bar fuel pressure reg, what does the "bar" refer to? Unit of measurement for pressure or something like that?


Yes. Bar is one of the many units of pressure. 

1 Bar = 100 kilopascals = ~ 1 atmospere = 14.7 psi


Note that when people say they are running 1 bar of boost this means that they are compressing 1 bar on top of the normal atmospheric pressure. So at normal sea level running 1 bar is really like 2 bar.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

VanKid said:


> For example: a 4bar fuel pressure reg, what does the "bar" refer to? Unit of measurement for pressure or something like that?


that's correct.

"bar" is a measure of pressure.

so a 4bar FPR regulates fuel pressure to a constant 4bar. 

these devices are used to control the amount of pressure delivered to the fueling system, and are typically located on the fuel rail opposite the injectors.

too high a fuel pressure means you'll run rich, too low means you'll run lean.

the number refers to the amount of pressure, measured in "bar" that the regulator is rated at.


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## $teve (Feb 23, 2010)

*2 step?*

can someone explain to me how this works?


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## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

$teve said:


> can someone explain to me how this works?


"this"?

Please elaborate.


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## stascom (Sep 12, 2009)

$teve said:


> can someone explain to me how this works?


----------



## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

atomicalex said:


> "this"?
> 
> Please elaborate.


I think he means 2 step as noted in his post title. But no one ever reads those. :laugh:



from wikipedia said:


> A method of anti-lag developed along the same technique previously mentioned, but designed only to allow reduction of turbo lag when a car is initially pulling away from a standing start. These systems can be integrated into the engine management or existing anti-lag system, or can be fitted as a standalone unit. The basic method of operation is to artificially lower the engine rev limiter to hold the engine at a speed where the turbo can produce useable boost, by altering the ignition. Because the ignition is alternately cut or retarded, there is similar noise and misfires associated with other anti-lag systems. Systems for Two Step launch designed to be fitted in addition to the existing engine management work by interrupting the crank position sensor signal, so that the engine develops a controlled misfire at a pre-determined RPM. The basic premise of the launch control system is to build positive boost pressure from a static engine, releasing full or increased power to the wheels when the car starts to move off. It is most commonly used in turbo-charged drag racing, primarily in the US and Japan, although most WRC cars utilise launch control to ensure that the cars can get off the line much more quickly.


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## $teve (Feb 23, 2010)

mellbergVWfan said:


> I think he means 2 step as noted in his post title. But no one ever reads those. :laugh:


yes thats what "this" was referring to lol


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## 1.8TRabbit (Nov 15, 2004)

Why do Notable car manufacturers use slanted lines in their emblems? Does it represent something? 

pics for example.


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## ByronLLN (Jul 29, 2004)

1.8TRabbit said:


> Why do Notable car manufacturers use slanted lines in their emblems? Does it represent something?
> 
> pics for example.


It implies movement or speed. 

||| -- lines standing still.

/// -- lines in motion.


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## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

stascom said:


> How many times could you expect a transmission to handle gear grinds when shifting?


got the same question... been about 8000 km's that my second has been grinding, when will it go


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## 1.8TRabbit (Nov 15, 2004)

PassSedanGLX said:


> It implies movement or speed.
> 
> ||| -- lines standing still.
> 
> /// -- lines in motion.


Thank you for the generic answer. Although my question wasnt directed towards why they are slanted versus vertical.. It was why DO THEY USE slanted lines. Why not an arrow, or something different. Why do so many use slanted lines? If it is just because it implies movement then there are tons of other ways to imply that logic without using lines. *Anyone else know?*

For instance how FedEx uses the same movement logic. 








now you see it the arrow. 









If you put a lower-case �x� to the right of a capital �E� (Ex) you can begin to see a hint of an arrow, though it is clumsy and extremely abstract. I thought that, if they could develop this concept of an �arrow� it could be promoted as a symbol for speed and precision just as easily as slanted lines. But why are the lines used so widely over any other creativity?


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## LA7VJetta (Jul 21, 2009)

PassSedanGLX said:


> It implies movement or speed.
> 
> ||| -- lines standing still.
> 
> /// -- lines in motion.


:thumbup: Makes sense.


----------



## ByronLLN (Jul 29, 2004)

1.8TRabbit said:


> Thank you for the generic answer. Although my question wasnt directed towards why they are slanted versus vertical.. It was why DO THEY USE slanted lines. Why not an arrow, or something different. Why do so many use slanted lines? If it is just because it implies movement then there are tons of other ways to imply that logic without using lines. *Anyone else know?*


Lines are easy to integrate into just about anything. Sometimes the simplest answer is the right one.


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## Broduski (Nov 19, 2008)

What is the advantage and disadvantage of different valve angles? I always wondered this about Toyota engines, with the F headed engines (Narrow-angle) (7AFE, 5SFE, etc) and the G headed engines (Wide-angle) (4AGE, 7MGE, etc) The narrow angle is supposed to be the fuel economy non-performance engines and the wide is supposed to be high performance, But why?


----------



## LA7VJetta (Jul 21, 2009)

16v_43v3r said:


> What is the advantage and disadvantage of different valve angles? I always wondered this about Toyota engines, with the F headed engines (Narrow-angle) (7AFE, 5SFE, etc) and the G headed engines (Wide-angle) (4AGE, 7MGE, etc) The narrow angle is supposed to be the fuel economy non-performance engines and the wide is supposed to be high performance, But why?



Wide angle = straighter exhaust port
narrow angle = more of a curved port.


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## 1.8TRabbit (Nov 15, 2004)

Explain how a turbo carburetor set up works with fuel delivery. (Pull throw vs Blow through) 








All the questions I have for now.


----------



## Trike Kid (Sep 28, 2008)

2.0_Mazda said:


> got the same question... been about 8000 km's that my second has been grinding, when will it go


There's too many variables to answer that. It'll start popping out of gear first, and that will more than likely make the gear un-useable before you truelly have no way too engage the gear. If it's grinding, double clutch it and shift gently and you can make the most of it, but I would start pricing out a used trans or a transmission rebuild.


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## tip (Aug 8, 2008)

1.8TRabbit said:


> Explain how a turbo carburetor set up works with fuel delivery. (Pull throw vs Blow through)


what exactly do you want to know? and what do you mean by pull vs blow?


----------



## WhitePoloCT (Jul 28, 2005)

tip said:


> what exactly do you want to know? and what do you mean by pull vs blow?


I'm guessing pull through is carb before turbo, and blow through is carb after turbo.


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Since this might be a dumb question (not warranting it's own thread) I'll ask here. What is this awesome car?


----------



## mrksingh (Jan 4, 2011)

MrMook said:


> Since this might be a dumb question (not warranting it's own thread) I'll ask here. What is this awesome car?


That would be a Jensen Interceptor!


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

PassSedanGLX said:


> Lines are easy to integrate into just about anything. Sometimes the simplest answer is the right one.


Occam's Razor FTW!


----------



## Dr. Woo (Feb 28, 2003)

1.8TRabbit said:


> If you put a lower-case �x� to the right of a capital �E� (Ex) you can begin to see a hint of an arrow, though it is clumsy and extremely abstract. I thought that, if they could develop this concept of an �arrow� it could be promoted as a symbol for speed and precision just as easily as slanted lines. But why are the lines used so widely over any other creativity?


Buick used an arrow for their V6 emblem on the Grand National.










It's all about cleanliness of design. Nowadays you'd be hard-pressed to find any other shape simply because the slanted lines are _de rigeur_.


----------



## Slick Megalopolis (Aug 29, 2009)

MrMook said:


> Since this might be a dumb question (not warranting it's own thread) I'll ask here. What is this awesome car?


 I believe that's a Jensen Interceptor.

I only recognize it because it was Jim Kelly's car in Black Belt Jones.


----------



## Diamond Dave (Mar 24, 2001)

TwoLitreVW said:


> this is also why you'll see emergency vehicles and/or LEO use red and blue.


In most states in the US only Law Enforcement can use that combo. Fire or Emergency vehicles typically use red alone or red + white.




stascom said:


> How many times could you expect a transmission to handle gear grinds when shifting?


How many licks does it take to get to the center of a tootsie roll pop  There is obviously no single answer, but make sure you understand there's a difference between a gear grind and a syncro grind.




BRealistic said:


> How can modern cars have such amazingly safe crumple zones and yet also have such tightly packed engine bays?


Because they use the drivetrain as part of the safety/impact zone.



DzlDub said:


> Won't a brake stand destroy the rear brakes because you're hitting the brakes and gas at the same time? RWD car obviously.


Define "destroy". Why would anything bad happen since the rotor isn't moving?



1.8TRabbit said:


> Thank you for the generic answer. Although my question wasnt directed towards why they are slanted versus vertical.. It was why DO THEY USE slanted lines. Why not an arrow, or something different. Why do so many use slanted lines?


Simplicity. What is easier to see at a distance or make out on a fast moving object; slanted lines or arrows? The simpler image of course.





Dr. Woo said:


> Buick used an arrow for their V6 emblem on the Grand National.


I thought it wasn't for speed as much as to note that it was a turbo V6? The 6 looks like a turbo, no?


----------



## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

DzlDub said:


> Won't a brake stand destroy the rear brakes because you're hitting the brakes and gas at the same time? RWD car obviously.





Diamond Dave said:


> Define "destroy". Why would anything bad happen since the rotor isn't moving?


Huh? If the wheel is spinning, the rotor is moving right along with it. And, unless you have a line lock that releases the pressure to the rear brakes, the pads will be clamped down, too. 

Most people don't do burnouts for long enough to damage the brakes, (the tires probably fail first) but I remember seeing a video on the Discovery channel probably 10 or 15 years ago on a "How Stuff Works" program where they demonstrated that an ordinary brake rotor will glow cherry red after about 30 seconds of simultaneous full throttle and braking.

Edit: this is close enough:


----------



## SpecialFX (Aug 20, 2006)

Exactly what work is done when an engine is rebuilt and why do most people not trust someone else's rebuild when buying used cars?


----------



## LA7VJetta (Jul 21, 2009)

WhitePoloCT said:


> I'm guessing pull through is carb before turbo, and blow through is carb after turbo.


Exactly. blow through has special passages or a box around the whole carb to pressurize the carb to keep fuel delivery constant. draw through does not need to be pressurized to keep the fuel constant, just have larger jets.



SpecialFX said:


> Exactly what work is done when an engine is rebuilt and why do most people not trust someone else's rebuild when buying used cars?


torn down, new bearings, pistons, rings, gaskets, etc.. people dont trust other guys work cause they may not do what they say they did, torque the bolts properly, etc...


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## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

SpecialFX said:


> Exactly what work is done when an engine is rebuilt and why do most people not trust someone else's rebuild when buying used cars?


It varies, but a full rebuild will be...

Engine block bored/honed, matching oversize pistons/rings used
Crankshaft journals turned/polished, thicker bearings used to compensate if necessary
Connecting rod journals honed, larger bearings also used. Could/should also include new rod bolts
Camshaft(s) polished
New lifters
In rare instances the block may need to be line honed (lines up the main journals)
Everything totally cleaned of course 

In the heads, usually new valves, seals/seats, springs, basically everything is new except the head casting. New head bolts, too. 

Then everything else such as timing chain/belt, oil pump etc is all new. Things like the oil pan, valve covers are usually reused as they don't really wear out. All new gaskets throughout, of course.


Rebuilds, like anything else, can be good or bad. It's very easy to cut corners and do about half of what I listed above. It also has to be done to very, very close tolerances (think thousandths of inches) so the shop has to know what they are doing.


----------



## tip (Aug 8, 2008)

Wow. Standing right there filming that is one of the stupidest things I've ever seen on youtube. Great find!


----------



## 557688 (Aug 21, 2010)

what the hell does overdrive do? And all of the other different types of drives like Hi, Lo.


----------



## Trike Kid (Sep 28, 2008)

Mr Miyagi said:


> what the hell does overdrive do? And all of the other different types of drives like Hi, Lo.


In an overdrive condition the transmission output is spinning at a higher rpm than the engine crank shaft. (5th and 6th in most RWD transmissions)

Direct drive is 1:1 (4th in most RWD transmissions) 

Under drive is any gear reduction, where the engine crankshaft spins faster than the transmission output. (1st - 3rd)


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## 557688 (Aug 21, 2010)

Trike Kid said:


> In an overdrive condition the transmission output is spinning at a higher rpm than the engine crank shaft. (5th and 6th in most RWD transmissions)
> 
> Direct drive is 1:1 (4th in most RWD transmissions)
> 
> Under drive is any gear reduction, where the engine crankshaft spins faster than the transmission output. (1st - 3rd)


when should you use each mode?


----------



## Trike Kid (Sep 28, 2008)

Mr Miyagi said:


> when should you use each mode?


When they give you the correct engine speed to match your vehicle speed. 1st-3rd are generally used around town (0-45). Direct, when you need less engine speed than 3rd but more torks than 5th. Overdrive is for cruising on the highway.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Mr Miyagi said:


> what the hell does overdrive do? And all of the other different types of drives like Hi, Lo.


Use overdrive (usually just top gear) when cruising to keep the RPMs down for less noise and better mileage. Some new economy-minded cars like the Cruze Eco have _three_ overdrive gears! (4th, 5th & 6th)

"High" and "low" are found on trucks with transfer cases. Selecting 4WD "high" gives 4WD with normal gear ratios; choosing low range leaves you the same set of gears but with shorter ratios. In effect, you now get eight gears out of your four speed transmission. That said, it's usually not possible to switch between the two when driving around; you usually have to stop to shift to or from 4WD low.

Low-range 4WD gives you, in effect, shorter ratios in every gear for better pulling power off-road and in deep mud, as well as better engine braking when going down steep hills so you don't have to ride the brakes and/or risk a skid. In 4WD low, 1st gear might only be good for 5 or 6 MPH at the redline.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Why can't a trailing arm/torsion bar suspension just be split in half to make independent rear suspension? A double trailing-arm, if you will. I assume my p-shop engineering would result in an unsafe vehicle...but why?

If....









Why not....


----------



## ByronLLN (Jul 29, 2004)

MrMook said:


> Why can't a trailing arm/torsion bar suspension just be split in half to make independent rear suspension? A double trailing-arm, if you will. I assume my p-shop engineering would result in an unsafe vehicle...but why?
> 
> If....
> 
> ...


What you're describing is basically a trailing arm suspension. Take a look here:

http://www.autozine.org/technical_school/suspension/tech_suspension21.htm


----------



## 3UR0TR45H (Nov 6, 2010)

If I import a car from Europe (e.g. RS2, RS6 Avant, Lancia Delta Evo) specifically for marketing my business and doing shows and promotions, do I have to jump through all the hoops or can I treat it like a kit/race car and avoid registration altogether?


----------



## Brycejoseph (Jul 9, 2008)

3UR0TR45H said:


> If I import a car from Europe (e.g. RS2, RS6 Avant, Lancia Delta Evo) specifically for marketing my business and doing shows and promotions, do I have to jump through all the hoops or can I treat it like a kit/race car and avoid registration altogether?


if they never drove on the street no-one will ever know


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

PassSedanGLX said:


> What you're describing is basically a trailing arm suspension. Take a look here:
> 
> http://www.autozine.org/technical_school/suspension/tech_suspension21.htm


So the disadvantage would be no change in camber angle under cornering, leading to understeer. 

But....if a 3-wheeling VW (which has no rear camber change anyway, and is already known for understeer) were to be fitted with a double trailing-arm setup, wouldn't it keep the inside tire down for better handling? Especially in an off-road/rally situation?


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## VeeDub Bowtie (Jul 10, 2003)

MrMook said:


> Why can't a trailing arm/torsion bar suspension just be split in half to make independent rear suspension?


IIRC the torsion bar needs to be longer to provide "spring" (a torsion bar is just an "unwound" spring)

Your pchop has very short bars.


----------



## alleghenyman (Nov 20, 2003)

In a dual-clutch automatic transmission how does a wet clutch function differently than a dry clutch? Ford's dca has dry clutches and I think vw and porsche's are wet.


----------



## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

Dry clutches are dry (duh) meaning they are seperated from the trans oil, they work like a car clutch which is outside the transmission. Wet clutches (most motorcycles) have a wet clutch which is bathed in oil.

I honestly don't really know why VW for example is switching to wet in the new DSG, I guess they feel it will be better in the long run for longevity, or it just simply works better, or it's easier to package...


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## LA7VJetta (Jul 21, 2009)

RedRabidRabbit said:


> Dry clutches are dry (duh) meaning they are seperated from the trans oil, they work like a car clutch which is outside the transmission. Wet clutches (most motorcycles) have a wet clutch which is bathed in oil.
> 
> I honestly don't really know why VW for example is switching to wet in the new DSG, I guess they feel it will be better in the long run for longevity, or it just simply works better, or it's easier to package...


Ok, I have a question...

What is the point of wet clutches, and how do they work without slipping?


----------



## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

LA7VJetta said:


> Ok, I have a question...
> 
> What is the point of wet clutches, and how do they work without slipping?


This explains it much better than I can 

http://www.ehow.com/how-does_4967920_wet-clutches-work.html


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## LA7VJetta (Jul 21, 2009)

fair enough :thumbup:


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

VeeDub Bowtie said:


> IIRC the torsion bar needs to be longer to provide "spring" (a torsion bar is just an "unwound" spring)
> 
> Your pchop has very short bars.


I can see how the torsion bar would provide a bit of suspension/weight transfer as it flexes (hence the torsion part), but why can't that action just be provided by the actual spring and dampers? And then maybe throw on a chunky anti-roll bar to keep the inside nice and squat.


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## IC AI (Aug 29, 2008)

I see more and more tractor trailers with what I can only describe as (almost-)double wide tires. So instead of being 18-wheelers, they are more like 10-wheelers, but only the very front ones are normal width. 
What is the main advantage? Tire costs, fuel economy, taxes being paid on the number of tires?


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## lorge1989 (Sep 3, 2008)

IC AI said:


> I see more and more tractor trailers with what I can only describe as (almost-)double wide tires. So instead of being 18-wheelers, they are more like 10-wheelers, but only the very front ones are normal width.
> What is the main advantage? Tire costs, fuel economy, taxes being paid on the number of tires?


Well if you think about it, the surface area of one tire is:

pi*diameter*width + 2*(pi*(total radius)^2 - pi*(wheel radius)^2)

That is the first term is the contact area and the last two account for the sidewall (twice because there are two sides to each tire)

So for a tire that is 8 inches wide and a rim diameter of 20 inches and total diameter of the tire being 40 inches.

Plug in the numbers and the approximate SA is 2758 in^2 per wheel or 5516 in^2 for two wheels.


Now replace both those wheels one of double the width and the surface area is:

3764 in^2. This is because you basically get rid of the inner side walls. Less material equals less cost. 

Even if you multiply this by a factor of 1.2 to compensate for the thicker sidewall that probably has to be used the amount of material is still 18% less than if 2 tires were used.


----------



## LA7VJetta (Jul 21, 2009)

But, the contact patch of the tires is bigger, therefore lowering MPGz. :wave:


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## lorge1989 (Sep 3, 2008)

LA7VJetta said:


> But, the contact patch of the tires is bigger, therefore lowering MPGz. :wave:


I was just showing that if the tire was double as wide then those numbers would be valid. But in the post that I was replying to he said that the tires were "almost" double the width. So re do all that elementary math with a 14 inch wide tire instead of 16 inches and my point would be even better. 
eace:

ps. With a smaller contact patch. 

edit:

I can also see a big downside to this because if that one tire gets trashed it will cost a lot more to replace than if only one of the smaller tires were to be destroyed. 

Probably a point of contention in the trucking industry hence why you may see some tractor trailers with these tires but not all.


----------



## fishNchips (Apr 16, 2009)

Sorry if its been asked but what is engine knock? I know its from using too low of an octane gas, but other than that, what is it and why is it bad?


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## Tripicana (Dec 17, 2004)

the real reason for the "super singles" is so there is half as many sidewalls flexing, so less loss of energy.


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## lorge1989 (Sep 3, 2008)

josh_did_what said:


> Sorry if its been asked but what is engine knock? I know its from using too low of an octane gas, but other than that, what is it and why is it bad?


Gotta be a little self sufficient http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking



Tripicana said:


> the real reason for the "super singles" is so there is half as many sidewalls flexing, so less loss of energy.


Ohhhhh, I didn't even think of that but that makes sense.


----------



## pinktshirt (Jul 25, 2007)

I have one... :facepalm:

In what situation does a rear-wheel-drive car fishtail as a result of its having lost rear traction? Can anyone explain the physics behind it? :/


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## Dr. Woo (Feb 28, 2003)

pinktshirt said:


> I have one... :facepalm:
> 
> In what situation does a rear-wheel-drive car fishtail as a result of its having lost rear traction? Can anyone explain the physics behind it? :/


While this doesn't quite explain it fully, it's a great excuse to hear the late great Colin McRae in this series of in-car interviews, as long as you can filter his accent, explain the difference between understeer and oversteer.






My question is a lot less technical so it might not totally belong here, but when it comes to a home-garage jack and stands, can anyone recommend a brand or guidelines for finding good ones?


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Dr. Woo said:


> My question is a lot less technical so it might not totally belong here, but when it comes to a home-garage jack and stands, can anyone recommend a brand or guidelines for finding good ones?


They all "work", but I think you get what you pay for. I have a cheap parts-store hydraulic floor jack, and it works great for lifting the car, but I really want a nice low-pro race jack. They can lift more, they lift faster, they can get under lower cars, and the build quality is just nicer.

I'd recommend a multi-foot jack stand, over a baseplate-style stand. In my opinion and experience, they're more stable on un-even or rough-textured surfaces, although I have had the feet sink slightly on hot asphalt. 


Good: 









Not so good (IMO):









Whatever you do, never trust a jack to hold anything (I don't care how fancy your jack is). Always have jack stands under the car. I always use two jack stands any time I'm under the car. I also leave the jack under a secure spot, so if something shifts or falls, anyone can just start pumping the handle to raise the car again. Call me paranoid, but that's just my ritual.


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## Ed52 (May 21, 2001)

*REMOTE CAR STARTERS.....3000 foot range*

Why would you need to start your car from 20 blocks away??


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## Intalex (Mar 1, 2002)

Ed52 said:


> Why would you need to start your car from 20 blocks away??


On cold days, if you're parked far from where you work, the further you can start it from, the better. Sometimes people have to take a shuttle bus to the parking lot or whatever.


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## jettafan[atic] (Dec 2, 2008)

Intalex said:


> On cold days, if you're parked far from where you work, the further you can start it from, the better. Sometimes people have to take a shuttle bus to the parking lot or whatever.


I wouldn't recommend this. Cold temp = thick oil. Thick oil + low volume of oil being pumped at idle speeds = increased wear, and that's not something I want to have going on every day while I travel 20 blocks.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

jettafan[atic] said:


> I wouldn't recommend this. Cold temp = thick oil. Thick oil + low volume of oil being pumped at idle speeds = increased wear, and that's not something I want to have going on every day while I travel 20 blocks.


How about a nice multi-grade oil?


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## jettafan[atic] (Dec 2, 2008)

MrMook said:


> How about a nice multi-grade oil?


Yeah that does help but it's still not good to let your car sit and idle for a long time to warm up in the winter months. Want a hands on example? Go buy 2 quarts of oil that are different weights, like a 5w-30 multi weight and a 50 weight. Pour half of each quart into 2 cups so you have 4 cups total and label them 5/30 cold, 5/30 hot, 50 cold and 50 hot. You may want to put the hot samples in some kind of metal or pyrex container. Let the cold samples sit outside over night and when you want to see the difference heat the hot samples to something 160 degrees (do it carefully, use your brain! I don't need to get a letter telling me it's my fault someone splattered hot oil all over their baby and I'm being sued)

Then check out the difference between the 4 samples, the 50w cold sample will be real thick and wont work very well at protecting your engine. The 5/30 cold wont be as thick but it won't flow as well as the 5/30 hot and the 50w hot will be nice and thin although thicker than the 5/30. 

Now even though the 5w-30 acts like a 5 weight when cold your oil pump isn't moving quickly at idle speeds so even though it does flow more easily there's still not much oil being moved around and can still increase wear.


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## carpathian_basin (Jul 7, 2009)

ok I was talking about this with my dad...

I am under the impression that most every car with a similar drivetrain layout and differential setup will handle similarly in snow (i.e. assuming tires are the same, an open-diff FWD honda will handle very similarly to an open-diff FWD VW, a RWD lexus with an LSD will handle the same as a RWD BMW with an LSD, etc.), and that the tires are the real deciding factor. 

My dad tried to tell me that his B6 Passat was better in snow than my aunt's Camry, and he justified this because the Passat has certain "design features" (i.e. weight of the engine, etc.), but I told him that this really does not make that big of a difference, and nowhere near as much as the tire tread and type as well as drivetrain layout.

Who is right?


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## stascom (Sep 12, 2009)

carpathian_basin said:


> ok I was talking about this with my dad...
> 
> I am under the impression that most every car with a similar drivetrain layout and differential setup will handle similarly in snow (i.e. assuming tires are the same, an open-diff FWD honda will handle very similarly to an open-diff FWD VW, a RWD lexus with an LSD will handle the same as a RWD BMW with an LSD, etc.), and that the tires are the real deciding factor.
> 
> ...


No expert here, but I can totally see how the weight and location of the engine would noticeably affect FWD performance in snow  Weight distribution would be a factor, too. Oh, and suspension stiffness. 
Unless handling in snow is seen as putting 2 cars side by side, turn traction control off, slam the accel down, and see which one drives faster :laugh:


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## mike minnillo (Sep 23, 2007)

i can vouch that similar setups (FWD, open diff) do not always work the same in the snow. one of the best vehicles ive ever driven in snow (packed snow, ice, deep snow, you name it) was my 98 saturn SL, on all season tires. honestly, this thing was amazing. it beats my gti on snow tires any day. i think a lot of it has to do with the overall weight of the vehicle as well as weight distribution. the saturn was significantly lighter than my vw, so i think there was less effort to get the vehicle moving. also, ive noticed that less powerful vehicles are easier to drive, because theres less wheelspin. example, the saturn was a 1.9L with 100hp/100tq, whereas the gti is a 2.8L with 174hp/181tq (numbers stock at the flywheel)

that ive seen, it just seems like lighter, less powerful cars tend to do better than heavier, more powerful ones.


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## feels_road (Jan 27, 2005)

RedRabidRabbit said:


> I honestly don't really know why VW for example is switching to wet in the new DSG, I guess they feel it will be better in the long run for longevity, or it just simply works better, or it's easier to package...


They are not switching - they have both, for different purposes. A wet clutch DSG is still not quite as efficient as a dry clutch, but (I assume) can take much higher loads. In Europe, many models with the wet-clutch DSG get ~10% less mileage rating than the corresponding manual transmission cars, while dry-clutch DSG cars get the same or better mileage than MTs. Dry-clutch DSGs are in VWs with lower torque engines.


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## Ed52 (May 21, 2001)

*Door ding preventers-AKA rub strips. Where'd they go?*

Why are they not available on so many new cars? Why did the designers omit them? Is it because new flat panels are not vulnerable to door dings, thicker dent resistant metal or the drivers instinctively know where it's safe to park?

The ultra smooth car sides look very nice in the showroom but how do they stand up in the real world after a few years?


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## Ed52 (May 21, 2001)

*Why are women so dumb that they can't find their own car?(treading on glass shards)*

This was not the first time my wife tried to open a very similar car to hers at the mall. 
The first time she tried the key in the doorlock but it wouldn't turn and then she realized something wasn't right with that car.
This time she managed to open someone elses trunk with some difficulty using her key. When opening the trunk she thought someone had stolen her purchased toilet paper and replaced it with a spare tire and some old paint cans.

So, have you ever had a brain fart and went for the wrong car?

Of course I realize women are not dumb... it's just that men won't admit their stupidity.


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## 557688 (Aug 21, 2010)

Ed52 said:


> Of course I realize women are not dumb... it's just that* WOmen* won't admit their stupidity.


FTFY.


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## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

Ed52 said:


> This was not the first time my wife tried to open a very similar car to hers at the mall.
> The first time she tried the key in the doorlock but it wouldn't turn and then she realized something wasn't right with that car.
> This time she managed to open someone elses trunk with some difficulty using her key. When opening the trunk she thought someone had stolen her purchased toilet paper and replaced it with a spare tire and some old paint cans.
> 
> ...


Haha, CSB :thumbup:

My exes mother once locked herself inside her van for 40 minutes because she couldn't figure out how to turn the alarm off with the fob :facepalm:


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## J286duesey (Oct 9, 2008)

*Black GTI group photo*

Where can I find the picture of the black GTIs MK1 thru I think Mk5, I think, with the photo taken from the side and the cars were staggered so you could see the progression of change. I think it may have been taken at Waterfest or H20i? I also think each car had mesh wheels.


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## Super 180s (Nov 14, 2007)

Dr. Woo said:


> My question is a lot less technical so it might not totally belong here, but when it comes to a home-garage jack and stands, can anyone recommend a brand or guidelines for finding good ones?


AC Hydraulics.


----------



## redplasticcup (Jul 22, 2000)

J286duesey said:


> Where can I find the picture of the black GTIs MK1 thru I think Mk5


This one?


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## J286duesey (Oct 9, 2008)

redplasticcup said:


> This one?


 redplasticcup, your link is not downloading. Is there another way you can link the image?


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## LA7VJetta (Jul 21, 2009)

here


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## J286duesey (Oct 9, 2008)

Thanks. That's the photo I was looking for.


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

*Oil weight*

I know with a google search I could find this retard question but why not make use of this thread opcorn:


Someone explain oil weight (5W30) whats the 5? whats the W...& the 30 ??


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## 5P4RK4 (Jun 24, 2004)

Ed52 said:


> Of course I realize women are not dumb... it's just that women won't admit their stupidity.


I always say girls are smarter than you think they are, but not nearly as smart as they think they are. :thumbup:


----------



## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

skydive_007 said:


> I know with a google search I could find this retard question but why not make use of this thread opcorn:
> 
> 
> Someone explain oil weight (5W30) whats the 5? whats the W...& the 30 ??


The W means winter

5 weight when hot, 30 weight when cold.


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## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

When car companies debut new platforms and cars, they sometimes tout increases in rigidity (110% stiffer!). How much stiffer can platforms already be? If companies still have such huge increases in structural rigidity, how _loose_ were previous models to begin with? It makes it sound as though they were cooked spaghetti. I assume it deals with diminishing returns.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

DonPatrizio said:


> It makes it sound as though they were cooked spaghetti. I assume it deals with diminishing returns.


When I jacked up the front wheel of my A2 golf, I couldn't open the drivers door.

Spaghetti.


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## LA7VJetta (Jul 21, 2009)

Surf Green said:


> When I jacked up the front wheel of my A2 golf, I couldn't open the drivers door.
> 
> Spaghetti.


Same with my MK2 Jetta, I couldn't open any of the doors if I had the front end jacked up.


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## BTM (Feb 20, 2007)

Car is getting coilovers installed this week. I'm not slamming it by any means but maybe 1.5" drop on a car thats already pretty low... Any tips for how to "drive" a significantly lowered car? Other than the "avoid speedbumps" thing...


----------



## jettafan[atic] (Dec 2, 2008)

RedRabidRabbit said:


> The W means winter
> 
> 5 weight when hot, 30 weight when cold.


That's not quite correct, you got them mixed up. With a multi-grade oil the first number is the viscosity of the oil when cold and the second number is how the oil behaves when hot, higher viscosity means it's thicker. So take a 5w-30 for example, when it's cold the oil has a viscosity of 5 so it's a very thin oil. The 30 that comes after it doesn't mean that the oil gets thicker as it warms up but it actually means that the 5w-30 oil will not have thinned more than a conventional 30 weight oil would when it got hot. To rephrase: The second number isn't the viscosity at operating temp, it means it behaves like the stated viscosity oil would when hot.


----------



## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

do you have to pay sales tax on a private party sale?


----------



## WhitePoloCT (Jul 28, 2005)

skydive_007 said:


> I know with a google search I could find this retard question but why not make use of this thread opcorn:
> 
> 
> Someone explain oil weight (5W30) whats the 5? whats the W...& the 30 ??


http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/

start reading.


----------



## TrackMagicWS6 (Jan 31, 2010)

I hate the LT1 engine, but 1 feature I always liked was the reverse flow cooling, why don't more carmakers use this?


----------



## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

jettafan[atic] said:


> Yeah that does help but it's still not good to let your car sit and idle for a long time to warm up in the winter months. .


What do you mean? Do you not let your car warm up in the winter? No, it's not great for your car to sit and idle when the oil is thick and cold, but it's even worse to drive with it like that...

From bobistheoilguy:



> Remember that most engine wear occurs at startup when the oil is too thick to lubricate properly. It cannot flow and therefore cannot lubricate. Most of the thick oil at startup actually goes through the bypass valve back to the engine oil sump and not into your engine oil ways. This is especially true when you really step on that gas pedal. You really need more lubrication and you actually get less.





> If the thickness of oil was 10 when you got in your car in the morning and 10 while driving it would be perfect. You would not have to warm up your engine. You could just get in the car and step on the gas. There would be little wear and tear on you engine, almost none. Unfortunately the world is not perfect.


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

cockerpunk said:


> do you have to pay sales tax on a private party sale?


Depends on the state


----------



## Fisherson (Dec 22, 2008)

Take the S2000 and the Miata for example.
What are the insides of their hardtops like?
Are they finished with cloth?
Are they sort of bare metal/glass/plastic?


----------



## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

TheIllusionistD said:


> Take the S2000 and the Miata for example.
> What are the insides of their hardtops like?
> Are they finished with cloth?
> Are they sort of bare metal/glass/plastic?


Underside of an early Miata hardtop is either bare plastic (the SMC/sheet molding compound that the top is made of) or has a cloth headliner installed...they came both ways.

S2000, I don't know.

New Miata PRHTs and NC hardtops, I don't know either but I believe they all have headliners.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

The oil discussion got me Googling, and thought this bit about multi-weight oils was worth sharing:

"At cold temperatures, the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up, the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C, the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot."


----------



## scottybones (Jan 5, 2008)

BTM said:


> Car is getting coilovers installed this week. I'm not slamming it by any means but maybe 1.5" drop on a car thats already pretty low... Any tips for how to "drive" a significantly lowered car? Other than the "avoid speedbumps" thing...


take driveways and steeper slopes at an angle instead of straight on. look out for raised manhole covers, ice chunks in the winter, exploded tires left by semis on the highway, roadkill, roads with surface bumps/grooves, and large pot holes in the road. btw you could probably get away with driving over speedbumps ... given that you are only going to drop it 1.5" ... remember, approach it at an angle.

What kind of car are the coilovers going on??


----------



## IC AI (Aug 29, 2008)

If you're a big rig driver, how do you keep your sanity in heavy traffic? Yet again today, traffic on the DC Beltway slows down to a crawl, and big rigs typically leave a safe braking distance in front of them when going 10-20mph. And car drivers keep on squeezing in front of said trucks. 
Especially for drivers that get paid by the mile, how do you keep your sanity? I think that by the 15th car, I would just run them over... Maybe truck drivers are Zen Masters?


----------



## cryption (Mar 28, 2006)

IC AI said:


> If you're a big rig driver, how do you keep your sanity in heavy traffic? Yet again today, traffic on the DC Beltway slows down to a crawl, and big rigs typically leave a safe braking distance in front of them when going 10-20mph. And car drivers keep on squeezing in front of said trucks.
> Especially for drivers that get paid by the mile, how do you keep your sanity? I think that by the 15th car, I would just run them over... Maybe truck drivers are Zen Masters?


where I live it's the truck drivers pushing cars out of the way


----------



## 1.8Tquattro (Aug 13, 2006)

Why do police cars have licenses plates?


----------



## LA7VJetta (Jul 21, 2009)

1.8Tquattro said:


> Why do police cars have licenses plates?


:facepalm::laugh:

All cars have to.


----------



## AKADriver (Nov 20, 2001)

LA7VJetta said:


> :facepalm::laugh:
> 
> All cars have to.


I think it's a valid question, why do any government cars need plates?

In most states it seems like state police cars get special series plates which can be used to identify the car number.

Local police cars usually just get regular plates because they're not owned by the state directly, they're owned by the city/county.


----------



## chetacer (Dec 23, 2002)

What makes the whining noise when manual cars are reversing?


----------



## LA7VJetta (Jul 21, 2009)

chetacer said:


> What makes the whining noise when manual cars are reversing?


straight cut gears. I think.


----------



## BTM (Feb 20, 2007)

AKADriver said:


> I think it's a valid question, why do any government cars need plates?
> 
> In most states it seems like state police cars get special series plates which can be used to identify the car number.
> 
> Local police cars usually just get regular plates because they're not owned by the state directly, they're owned by the city/county.


All police cars here get gov't or police (municipality?) issue plates. I've always assumed it's because it's easier to keep track of cars by a plate than it is by VIN...much more visible. Could be wrong though


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

LA7VJetta said:


> straight cut gears. I think.


Yup.

And people think that a straight cut transmission would be so cool...could you imagine how loud that would be at 70+mph?


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## BTM (Feb 20, 2007)

TurboWraith said:


> Yup.
> 
> And people think that a straight cut transmission would be so cool...could you imagine how loud that would be at 70+mph?


Yea, while I've been aware that the whine is due to straight cut gears...what is the actual reason they are so much louder? What about being straight produces this whine compared to helical gears?


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## LA7VJetta (Jul 21, 2009)

BTM said:


> Yea, while I've always been aware that the whine is due to straight cut gears...what is the actual reason they are so much louder? What about being straight produces this whine compared to helical gears?


http://www.calverst.com/M-articles/1999-10 straight cuts and noise.htm


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

BTM said:


> Yea, while I've been aware that the whine is due to straight cut gears...what is the actual reason they are so much louder? What about being straight produces this whine compared to helical gears?


Oh.

Because the gear tooth is 'slapping' agaist the next all at once, as opposed to a helical, herringbone, or bevel cut. However, oil level/viscosity, and gear lash (empty space between teeth) will significantly affect sound levels as well.


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## 1.8Tquattro (Aug 13, 2006)

BTM said:


> All police cars here get gov't or police (municipality?) issue plates. I've always assumed it's because it's easier to keep track of cars by a plate than it is by VIN...much more visible. Could be wrong though


Around here all the police cars have individual numbers on them anyway.


----------



## BTM (Feb 20, 2007)

Thanks :thumbup:

(I piggybacked off that question btw, you answered the user's 1st question perfectly)


----------



## BTM (Feb 20, 2007)

1.8Tquattro said:


> Around here all the police cars have individual numbers on them anyway.


It seems by me there are more unmarked than marked...


----------



## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

TrackMagicWS6 said:


> I hate the LT1 engine, but 1 feature I always liked was the reverse flow cooling, why don't more carmakers use this?


Don't know, the Ford 302 HO was reverse flow as well. I think it's more of a plumbing thing having to do with where they can put the rad hoses.


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## freedomweasel (Apr 15, 2010)

TurboWraith said:


> Oh.
> 
> Because the gear tooth is 'slapping' agaist the next all at once, as opposed to a helical, herringbone, or bevel cut.


Is that also why they're better for performance? 


I want to learn more about various types of suspension (double wishbone, pushrod, etc) but I'm having trouble determining what is actually a different set up and what is a generic term, and what terms are interchangeable. 

For example, is there a difference between multi-link and MacPherson? Solid/live axles? Torsion beam? 

I'm not looking for details, I'll do that myself, but if someone could tell me some of the synonyms that'd be great. :beer:


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## trbochrg (Dec 1, 2004)

TurboWraith said:


> Oh.
> 
> Because the gear tooth is 'slapping' agaist the next all at once, as opposed to a helical, herringbone, or bevel cut. However, oil level/viscosity, and gear lash (empty space between teeth) will significantly affect sound levels as well.



OK, as a follow up, why is the reverse gear straight cut and not helical?


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## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

trbochrg said:


> OK, as a follow up, why is the reverse gear straight cut and not helical?


This thread reminds me of a three year old kid asking "why, why, why" 40 times in a row :laugh:

I have no idea, to be honest. Reverse usually doesn't have a synchro, either.


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## LA7VJetta (Jul 21, 2009)

trbochrg said:


> OK, as a follow up, why is the reverse gear straight cut and not helical?






> Its cost. Straight cut gears allow the use of a sliding idler revesrse train= cheaper than a constant mesh , synchronized reverse. All T56s ( even race -prepared boxes) have a constant-mesh synchronized reverse.The straight cut set has the mesh noise issue. Straight cut( VS helical cut) gearsets can be stronger which is why the high-end race boxes have straight cut ( or very low angle helix)gears.


\


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## Gitcha Sum (May 27, 2008)

freedomweasel said:


> Is that also why they're better for performance?
> 
> 
> I want to learn more about various types of suspension (double wishbone, pushrod, etc) but I'm having trouble determining what is actually a different set up and what is a generic term, and what terms are interchangeable.
> ...


Any given striaght cut gear tooth is thicker, than the same tooth on a matching ratio helical gear. So they're stronger, but take up the same space and offer the same ratio. 

3 link/4 link, radius arm, leaf spring, quarter elliptical, lateral leaf with a watts linkage, all can be used on a solid axle. 
I'm lacking independant suspension types though, that's not my bag...


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

freedomweasel said:


> Is that also why they're better for performance?
> 
> *I honestly dont know, if I were to take a stab at it, it would be because it is far easier to cut a new gear that fits an existing set with a straight cut profile. As race teams often swich out gear sets on a track to track basis, I could see that being attractive.*
> 
> ...


when someone refers to solid/live axles, they are usually talking about a _driven_ rear axle. Such as one found on the rear of a mustang or full sized truck. Torsion beam suspension is a non-driven rear axle setup that uses a (usually) v-shaped beam that is strung transversly across the chassis. At each end is a trailing arm that holds the spindle for the rear wheels. This setup is also sometimes called semi-independant.

multi link uses multiple control arms to locate the spindle in the correct place. The spring and shock are not controling the location of the spindle, just the movement rates of it. In a macphearson setup, the strut is controlling the location of the spindle, in conjunction with a single a-arm.



trbochrg said:


> OK, as a follow up, why is the reverse gear straight cut and not helical?


Because in most manuals, the gear itself is being moved into position rather than a splined collar. It is easier to mesh that way.


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

Why does every thread on Catch cans only include turbo engines ???


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## LA7VJetta (Jul 21, 2009)

skydive_007 said:


> Why does every thread on Catch cans only include turbo engines ???


This.


----------



## DzlDub (Aug 16, 2007)

How do 16 valve single cam motors operate? Are there more lobes on the camshaft? Are the valves arranged in a typical 2x2 fashion?


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## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

skydive_007 said:


> Why does every thread on Catch cans only include turbo engines ???


Because of the positive pressure in the intake tract.

NA engines have full time vacuum in the intake, so they scavenge the oil and blowby from the crankcase quite naturally. Run a hose from the crankcase to the intake, and you have a little vacuum cleaner running. 

In turbo cars, the opposite is true: the intake is pressurized, so plumbing it directly to the crankcase would result in the crankcase being pressurized, and no blowby or oil vapors being scavenged.


----------



## JorgenP (Apr 8, 2010)

Why do some aftermarket companies put the "plate" on the grill?


----------



## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

skydive_007 said:


> Why does every thread on Catch cans only include turbo engines ???


Ignorance. The new Coyote V8 needs one. I do believe the Nissan VQ also benefits from it.


----------



## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

atomicalex said:


> Because of the positive pressure in the intake tract.
> 
> NA engines have full time vacuum in the intake, so they scavenge the oil and blowby from the crankcase quite naturally. Run a hose from the crankcase to the intake, and you have a little vacuum cleaner running.
> 
> In turbo cars, the opposite is true: the intake is pressurized, so plumbing it directly to the crankcase would result in the crankcase being pressurized, and no blowby or oil vapors being scavenged.


 so Im not wasting my time putting one on my non turbo VR6


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## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

skydive_007 said:


> so Im not wasting my time putting one on my non turbo VR6


There's generally no need for one on a NA engine. The issue with the turbo ars is that because the intake does not naturally scavenge, there is no obvious way to suck the oil-loaded crankcase fumes out of the crankcase. A catchcan allows the crankcase to be vented to the atmosphere so that it doesn"t pressurize, and still catches the oil so it doesn"t end up inteh atmopshere. The fanciest catchcans drain back into the crankcase, and are thereby self-cleaning.


----------



## jettafan[atic] (Dec 2, 2008)

sjt1985 said:


> What do you mean? Do you not let your car warm up in the winter? No, it's not great for your car to sit and idle when the oil is thick and cold, but it's even worse to drive with it like that...


 From the quotes you posted it sounded like the website was talking about single grade oils which would be much thicker than say, a 5w-30 would be when cold. A single grade oil like a 30w would be too thick at startup to get pushed through the oil galleys and you're right it would be worse to drive the car than to let it idle. 

With multi-grades the oil is thin enough at startup temps to flow well but it's still not great to let your car sit and idle because the oil pump just doesn't have the pressure to move enough oil at those speeds. You don't want to rev the engine very high until you reach operating temp though because the oil is still too thick to flow the way it should. 

Here's what I do: 

Start my car, my car holds a higher idle at about 1500 rpm for about 5 seconds at first which helps push the oil and lubricate the top end. Once the revs die down I start driving and I keep the rpms between 1200-2500 until I reach operating temp. Then after 5-10 mins depending on ambient temp the engine is nice and toasty and I can flog it as much as I want.


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## Dr. Woo (Feb 28, 2003)

MustacheGT said:


> Ignorance. The new Coyote V8 needs one. I do believe the Nissan VQ also benefits from it.


 Some LS motors as well. I'm considering one for mine.


----------



## threethirteen (Mar 12, 2004)

so i'm driving through the mountains with my mom in the car and we pass a sign that reads "Engine brake muffle required" and she returns with: 

"Now I can understand how you can drive without a muffler, but aren't brakes and an engine kind of necessary?


----------



## freedomweasel (Apr 15, 2010)

How do open cockpit race cars (LMP, F1, etc) not fill up with water in the rain? Especially in 12 & 24 hour races I'd think that would become a problem.


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## jettafan[atic] (Dec 2, 2008)

freedomweasel said:


> How do open cockpit race cars (LMP, F1, etc) not fill up with water in the rain? Especially in 12 & 24 hour races I'd think that would become a problem.


 I assume it's because they're driving so fast that the rain isn't falling quickly enough to enter the cockpit before it hits something else around the cockpit. 

I'm basing that on the time I was driving my mom's Miata on the highway with the top down and it started pouring, we were surprisingly dry until we pulled off the highway to put the top up.


----------



## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

LA7VJetta said:


> straight cut gears. I think.


 edit, asked & answered


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

freedomweasel said:


> How do open cockpit race cars (LMP, F1, etc) not fill up with water in the rain? Especially in 12 & 24 hour races I'd think that would become a problem.


 I'm guessing the airflow over the windscreen deflects the downward motion of the rain rearward, creating an "atmospheric roof" (TM) to keep most of the water out. 
I don't own a convertible, but I hear if you maintain a constant speed, you can stay pretty dry, and you really only get wet once you stop to put the top up. 

Also, most race cars probably aren't watertight and upholstered like a passenger car. Plenty of gaps to let water out, especially tube-framed examples.


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

jettafan[atic] said:


> I assume it's because they're driving so fast that the rain isn't falling quickly enough to enter the cockpit before it hits something else around the cockpit.
> 
> I'm basing that on the time I was driving my mom's Miata on the highway with the top down and it started pouring, we were surprisingly dry until we pulled off the highway to put the top up.


 Don't know about race cars, but even the LeBacon would stay dry inside during moderate rain above 60mph.


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## freedomweasel (Apr 15, 2010)

jettafan[atic] said:


> I assume it's because they're driving so fast that the rain isn't falling quickly enough to enter the cockpit before it hits something else around the cockpit.
> 
> I'm basing that on the time I was driving my mom's Miata on the highway with the top down and it started pouring, we were surprisingly dry until we pulled off the highway to put the top up.





MrMook said:


> I'm guessing the airflow over the windscreen deflects the downward motion of the rain rearward, creating an "atmospheric roof" (TM) to keep most of the water out.
> I don't own a convertible, but I hear if you maintain a constant speed, you can stay pretty dry, and you really only get wet once you stop to put the top up.


 That makes a good amount of sense. I was just watching a documentary on the 24 hr of Le Mans and I could quite figure out how the R10 drivers weren't swimming. :laugh:


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## tip (Aug 8, 2008)

MrMook said:


> I don't own a convertible, but I hear if you maintain a constant speed, you can stay pretty dry, and you really only get wet once you stop to put the top up.


 pretty sure they did this on mythbusters, and it worked.


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## Cubster (Nov 26, 2002)

I think I've asked this before....a very long time ago. 

How do manufacturers decide on which weight of oil to use in any given engine?


----------



## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

Cubster said:


> I think I've asked this before....a very long time ago.
> 
> How do manufacturers decide on which weight of oil to use in any given engine?


 Fluid Dynamics.


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## Demo24 (Jan 22, 2006)

On the subject of oil, how do they determine how much oil should be in the engine?


----------



## Cubster (Nov 26, 2002)

mellbergVWfan said:


> Fluid Dynamics.


 Elborate....please.


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

Cubster said:


> Elborate....please.


Ooooh, meeee!!!!!! 

Let's start with Osborne Reynolds, who discovered the concept of drag. Reynolds recognized that the fluid at the walls of a pipe flows more slowly than the fluid at the center (drag), and called this a "boundary effect". In contrast, a drag-free flow would have the same speed across the cross-section of the pipe. We call this "plug flow". 

So.. how do we get from drag to oil "weight"? We consider what drag actually is. Drag is the resistance to flow due to friction at the wall/fluid interface. As the fluid immediately next to the wall is more attracted to the wall than the rest of the fluid, it tends to stay in place. The relative influence of the wall on the fluid decays exponentially across the diameter of the pipe to the center. 

Reynolds then took a step further and began to study what happens when a pipe bends. How does the flow change? Instead of a smooth gradient, vortices and eddies were introduced, creating dead zones and high rate areas, that all contributed to slowing down the flow and causing a pressure drop. Reynolds began to study this new concept of "flow turbulence". 

Many years pass, and Reynolds identifies that flow turbulence is related to the viscosity of a fluid, and the maximum degree of flow turbulence is limited by the tendency of the fluid to move over itself (today, we call this intermolecular motion). Reynolds (correctly!) identified viscosity as the internal friction of a fluid. At this point, he was fully prepared for the big hit of his career: the unified flow turbulence equation. 

The Reynolds equation allows you to analyze the flow turbulence as a function of speed, viscosity, and pipe (or bearing gap!) thickness. 

So, today, we bust out the three-dimensional Reynolds equation, pop in some surface speed constraints, the bearing gap limits, and a few fudge factors for temperature, and we can determine the minimum viscosity required to maintain the gap under a wide variety of operating conditions. Then we pick the range that covers those conditions the best, and put a label on the engine. 



Lewis F Richardson said:


> Big whorls have little whorls
> that feed on their velocity.
> Little whorls have lesser whorls,
> and so on, to viscosity!


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

atomicalex said:


> Ooooh, meeee!!!!!!
> 
> Let's start with Osborne Reynolds.....


 








:laugh:


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## Cubster (Nov 26, 2002)

That actually a very satisfying response, thanks. :thumbup:


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## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

Cubster said:


> That actually a very satisfying response, thanks. :thumbup:


 You're welcome. I have done a great deal of work with the Reynolds equation and viscosity, it's fun to talk about in a non-work environment.


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

Why do they use timing BELTS instead of chains or gears in interference engines? I've NEVER had to change the chain on a SBC, even with over 475,000 miles on it. Sure, it was a little sloppy, but they last forever.


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## Denniswhat (Sep 12, 2007)

StormChaser said:


> Why do they use timing BELTS instead of chains or gears in interference engines? I've NEVER had to change the chain on a SBC, even with over 475,000 miles on it. Sure, it was a little sloppy, but they last forever.


 Cheaper, easier to change when needed.


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

Cheaper, OK, but easier to change? Not really, and chains don't need to be changed unless something goes VERY wrong. Adding $20 in cost to remove $500 of maintenance every 60,000 miles makes sense to me.


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## trb02jtta (Jan 24, 2005)

Do F1/ALMS/whatever drivers pee themselves if they have to go in the middle of a race?


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## 91gti20v (Jul 18, 2001)

atomicalex said:


> You're welcome. I have done a great deal of work with the Reynolds equation and viscosity, it's fun to talk about in a non-work environment.


 I know you have explained what your day job is... Just out of curiosity, what is your educational background? 

Your post describing the Reynolds eq. just gave me some Fluids flashbacks. I don't use it in my day to day life anymore though.


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## IHateSpeedBumps (Feb 20, 2005)

atomicalex said:


> it's fun to talk about in a non-work environment.


 While still getting paid for your time.:beer:


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## Dr. Woo (Feb 28, 2003)

StormChaser said:


> Cheaper, OK, but easier to change? Not really, and chains don't need to be changed unless something goes VERY wrong. Adding $20 in cost to remove $500 of maintenance every 60,000 miles makes sense to me.


 Yeah, but that maintenance is usually performed by a member of their dealer network. Cha-ching!


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## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

StormChaser said:


> Why do they use timing BELTS instead of chains or gears in interference engines? I've NEVER had to change the chain on a SBC, even with over 475,000 miles on it. Sure, it was a little sloppy, but they last forever.


 I learned this in my autotech class last week 

Timing Belt: 
PRO- Easy to replace 
CON- Doesnt last as long 
Timing Chain: 
PRO- Lasts a long time 
CON- Hard to replace 
Timing gear: 
PRO- Lasts a long time 
CON- Noisy


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

RacerrRex said:


> Timing gear:
> PRO- Lasts a long time
> CON- Noisy


 But what if they used helical-cut gears?


----------



## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

trb02jtta said:


> Do F1/ALMS/whatever drivers pee themselves if they have to go in the middle of a race?


 They go before the race and sweat so much during the race that I bet it's never an issue.


----------



## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

RedRabidRabbit said:


> They go before the race and sweat so much during the race that I bet it's never an issue.


 What about fighter jet pilots?


----------



## Shmi (Mar 25, 2009)

RacerrRex said:


> What about fighter jet pilots?


 relief tube. tube with a funnel so that they can pee while in the cockpit.


----------



## Brett92 (Nov 20, 2002)

I know this a really dumb question, but... 

Thinking of purchasing a car and would use a bank for the financing. I'm putting down about 30% of my own money and want to finance the rest. 

Can I just write 2 checks? (1 check from my account, and the other check using the banks money) 

Also, is it still not recommended to run Synthetic on a new car? I was thinking of changing the oil around the 1000 mile mark, but should I wait until 5k or 10k? 

Thanks.


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

Most manufacturers use a low or no detergent oil for the initial fill. This is to help seat the rings. If you change early, the rings may not have fully seated and you COULD end up with an engine that burns oil for the rest of it's life (or until you re-ring the engine). For the first oil change, wait for the manufacturers recommended change interval and use their recommended oil at first change. Subsequent changes can be synthetic as long as it is NOT a rotary engine...NEVER use synthetic in a rotary.


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## Brett92 (Nov 20, 2002)

Ah, gotcha.:thumbup: I'll hold off on the synthetic. 

BTW, didn't know that about rotary engines.


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

It destroys the apex seals and causes major oil burning (blue cloud). A LOT of people don't know this and destroy their rotary engines thinking they are doing it right. Synthetic in a rotary = doing it wrong.


----------



## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

Why do foriegn car manufacturers print all their text in English? Like The Nissan, Toyota, Hyundai, theyre all asian makes.... Why do they print their text in english? Especially the strictly domestic ones, like Nissan Skylines... shouldnt all the gauges and stuff be in Japanese writing?


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## LA7VJetta (Jul 21, 2009)

RacerrRex said:


> Why do foriegn car manufacturers print all their text in English? Like The Nissan, Toyota, Hyundai, theyre all asian makes.... Why do they print their text in english? Especially the strictly domestic ones, like Nissan Skylines... shouldnt all the gauges and stuff be in Japanese writing?


 Good question.


----------



## motronicmalfunction (Aug 26, 2002)

regarding front end alignment, specifically toe in/out:

what exactly changes when you hit a pothole, or run off the road, etc?

tie rods and ends don't move, they are threaded with a lock nut. the steering rack and pinion are some serious-looking gears, it does not look like they would skip teeth. 

ive never understood what in the steering system is able to get so screwed up and pulls the vehicle to one side.


----------



## jettafan[atic] (Dec 2, 2008)

I've seen control arms bend which can/will mess up the alignment in a few ways but I'm not sure of what else off the top of my head.


----------



## Mr.E.Guest (May 9, 2008)

Tie rod ends are malleable so they can absorb impacts without breaking. So hitting a curb or something will slightly compress the tie rod end throwing the alignment off.


----------



## WhitePoloCT (Jul 28, 2005)

RacerrRex said:


> Why do foriegn car manufacturers print all their text in English? Like The Nissan, Toyota, Hyundai, theyre all asian makes.... Why do they print their text in english? Especially the strictly domestic ones, like Nissan Skylines... shouldnt all the gauges and stuff be in Japanese writing?


[assumption] Because the Japanese companies didn't want to just sell to the Japanese... They wanted to sell across world. [/assumption]

And the alphabet is not just used for english.


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

StormChaser said:


> Most manufacturers use a low or no detergent oil for the initial fill. This is to help seat the rings. If you change early, the rings may not have fully seated and you COULD end up with an engine that burns oil for the rest of it's life (or until you re-ring the engine). For the first oil change, wait for the manufacturers recommended change interval and use their recommended oil at first change. Subsequent changes can be synthetic as long as it is NOT a rotary engine...NEVER use synthetic in a rotary.





StormChaser said:


> It destroys the apex seals and causes major oil burning (blue cloud). A LOT of people don't know this and destroy their rotary engines thinking they are doing it right. Synthetic in a rotary = doing it wrong.


This is utterly and totally false.

Break-in oils were used in the 70s, yes. Back then, manufacturing tolerances were recommendations, not facts, and rings had to be worn in. Today (even in the 80s, with the growth of CNC technology), piston bores lose less than 1/10 000th of their diameter during wearing in. It is rare to see an engine with the honing marks removed any more, even after 200K miles. This was not the case prior to the CNC revolution. 

The issue with rotaries has nothing to do with the basestock, but with the additive content. Modern (US) oils do not have the additive package that works best in the rotary wear environment. Thank you, EPA.


----------



## IC AI (Aug 29, 2008)

Why do companies have test mules if secrecy is so important? I see so many stories of test drivers getting upset if someone takes a picture of their test car...
Given the monies involved, wouldn't it be simpler to have the cars run on a treadmill in some room where they can control the temperature/humidity/other factors? What do they gain by test driving in the open, compared to what they lose by revealing what they are up to?


----------



## wmelon137 (Feb 6, 2001)

StormChaser said:


> It destroys the apex seals and causes major oil burning (blue cloud). A LOT of people don't know this and destroy their rotary engines thinking they are doing it right. Synthetic in a rotary = doing it wrong.


The main issue with synthetic oil in a rotary is due to the oil not burning properly and leaving deposits behind. 

Royal Purple has done extensive testing with their synthetic oil and have found that there are no issues running it in a rotary engine. http://www.royalpurple.com/faqs-rotary.html


----------



## trbochrg (Dec 1, 2004)

IC AI said:


> Why do companies have test mules is secrecy is so important? I see so many stories of test drivers getting upset if someone takes a picture of their test car...
> Given the monies involved, wouldn't it be simpler to have the cars run on a treadmill in some room where they can control the temperature/humidity/other factors? What do they gain by test driving in the open, compared to what they lose by revealing what they are up to?


I have wondered this as well...sometimes I wonder if the manufacturers themselves hire the photographers just to get a buzz going about a certain car.


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

StormChaser said:


> Why do they use timing BELTS instead of chains or gears in interference engines? I've NEVER had to change the chain on a SBC, even with over 475,000 miles on it. Sure, it was a little sloppy, but they last forever.


To elaborate on this a bit:

Belts were used on overhead cam engines mostly because they were so quiet. When a customer would test drive the car, it was quieter and made them want it that much more. Chains are more common now because sound deadening is better and people look at maintenance intervals closely when car shopping. "What? I have to do maintenance _before_ 100,000 miles?" Cars nowadays don't even need plugs that often. When belts came about, plugs were usually changed every 12,000 miles or so. Many still needed points/condensers, so a timing belt was a little less of an issue. Sure, it was still relatively expensive, but most people didn't know that when they bought the car!


----------



## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

Why does Toyota offer two different small pickup trucks in their production? They have the Tacoma for United States and the Hilux for the rest of the world. It would make more sense just to re-badge a Hilux and make it NHTSA approved instead of developing an entirely new vehicle.


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

IC AI said:


> Why do companies have test mules is secrecy is so important?
> Given the monies involved, wouldn't it be simpler to have the cars run on a treadmill in some room where they can control the temperature/humidity/other factors? What do they gain by test driving in the open, compared to what they lose by revealing what they are up to?


There is no substitute for real-world testing. I don't work in the automotive world, but I do have some product design experience, and I've learned that no matter how much you THINK you know about how the product will perform, you never do until you use it outside the "lab".


----------



## Cameron (Feb 16, 1999)

Why do motors still use timing belts/chains and overhead cams and all that mechanics ... rather than controlling the valves directly with solenoids (controlled by the computer). Is it an issue of speed? That the mechanically operated valves open/close faster and more accurately than a solenoid could manage?

I'd imagine that 100% computer (ECU) controlled valves would provide huge benefits, while also eliminating a lot of mechanical parts.

Thanks,
Cameron.


----------



## LA7VJetta (Jul 21, 2009)

Cameron said:


> Why do motors still use timing belts/chains and overhead cams and all that mechanics ... rather than controlling the valves directly with solenoids (controlled by the computer). Is it an issue of speed? That the mechanically operated valves open/close faster and more accurately than a solenoid could manage?
> 
> I'd imagine that 100% computer (ECU) controlled valves would provide huge benefits, while also eliminating a lot of mechanical parts.
> 
> ...


There is a company that is making exactly what you describe. I will find some info on it.


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## LA7VJetta (Jul 21, 2009)

here you go sir http://www.dieselpowermag.com/features/1104dp_sturman_industries_camless_engine_systems/index.html


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## Mk1ller (Jun 15, 2008)

LA7VJetta said:


> here you go sir http://www.dieselpowermag.com/features/1104dp_sturman_industries_camless_engine_systems/index.html


 That's really cool. I never even thought about doing that.


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## RmL1.8T (Jul 21, 2009)

LA7VJetta said:


> here you go sir http://www.dieselpowermag.com/features/1104dp_sturman_industries_camless_engine_systems/index.html


Yeah that's amazing. Is there a downside to digital valves that would prevent it from going mainstream?


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## Mr. Clarkson (Jul 24, 2008)

RmL1.8T said:


> Yeah that's amazing. Is there a downside to digital valves that would prevent it from going mainstream?


I couldnt see the page on that link do to their ****ty javascripting, but I'd assume that an electronic externally controlled valve couldn't be as reliable as a metal one that's physically controlled. Less moving parts: yes. Easier to operate in the long term: no.


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## Gitcha Sum (May 27, 2008)

I have a question about gearing, torque, & horsepower on a dyno. 
The Hemi Wrangler thread got me thinking. 

If you have a Hemi with 470ft.lb. of torque in a 4WD wrangler, with stock 3.73 gears, and 35" tires, and you throw it on a dyno for a 4th gear pull. How much of that info to you put into the machine? For the sake of this, lets say that all gives you 400ft.lbs. at the wheels. You take the wrangler then, and put a set of deeper 4.88 gears in it, same motor, same tires, same dyno. Would you get a higher torque reading? would that give you a higher HP reading? Or would you use maybe 5th or 6th to try to get closer to 1:1 with the engine speed? Talk me through that please. 
I understand what deeper gears feel like in 4WD, but not really the math behind it. 

Thanks.


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## MrRline (Apr 6, 2010)

I've never heard this till tonight, but im afraid to ask. Is there really such thing as proper spacing when installing new brake pads? A guy from work was talking tonight about pads wearing out after a years time, but after having a shop properly space them and install they lasted 4 years?


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

deucestudios said:


> I have a question about gearing, torque, & horsepower on a dyno.
> The Hemi Wrangler thread got me thinking.
> 
> If you have a Hemi with 470ft.lb. of torque in a 4WD wrangler, with stock 3.73 gears, and 35" tires, and you throw it on a dyno for a 4th gear pull. How much of that info to you put into the machine? For the sake of this, lets say that all gives you 400ft.lbs. at the wheels. You take the wrangler then, and put a set of deeper 4.88 gears in it, same motor, same tires, same dyno. Would you get a higher torque reading? would that give you a higher HP reading? Or would you use maybe 5th or 6th to try to get closer to 1:1 with the engine speed? Talk me through that please.
> ...


I don't have a solid answer, and know very little about dyno mapping, but I'm guessing this is why you see "crank" and "wheel" numbers. So many variables between the engine itself and the actual output, which would include gearing.


----------



## 2 doors (Jun 18, 2003)

Are VW Eurovans Front or Rear wheel drive? I know all the old Transporters were RWD, but when they moved the engine to the front, did they keep them RWD? I'm confused because these came out in the Chysler Minivan era.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

MrMook said:


> I don't have a solid answer, and know very little about dyno mapping, but I'm guessing this is why you see "crank" and "wheel" numbers. So many variables between the engine itself and the actual output, which would include gearing.


Crank and wheel just shows the drive train efficiency.
Aside from slightly different losses from different gearsets, it shouldn't make much of any difference as to what gear you're in.

In a lower gear, you'll accelerate at a faster rate, but at a lower speed. 
In a higher gear, you'll accelerate at a lower rate, but at a higher speed.

The resulting power output calculation will be the same.

However... Using 4th (1:1) gear means that the engine will accelerate slower, smoother, and over a longer time, giving you a more accurate result than just tearing through the RPMs in 1st gear.


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## Gitcha Sum (May 27, 2008)

Surf Green said:


> Crank and wheel just shows the drive train efficiency.
> Aside from slightly different losses from different gearsets, it shouldn't make much of any difference as to what gear you're in.


Sorry, but I doubt you're right, unless axle gearing is a number you plug into the dyno. 3.73 to 4.88 should show very different numbers if you do both pulls in 4th gear. 
Weight of driveshaft, resistance from pinion preload, axle shaft weight, hub resistance, tire weight... those are drivetrain losses. Is gear ratio a drivetrain loss, I don't know, but I don't think it is?



Surf Green said:


> The resulting power output calculation will be the same.


That's what I'm sayin, I think. Is gear ratio just part of the calculation of final drive ratio, so it has no affect on torque?


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## ByronLLN (Jul 29, 2004)

trbochrg said:


> I have wondered this as well...sometimes I wonder if the manufacturers themselves hire the photographers just to get a buzz going about a certain car.


I'm friendly with one of Brenda Priddy's photographers, and that is definitely not the case. They may drive a development mule in front of a waiting camera or a group of journalists if they want some buzz, but the professional relationship between the engineers/corporate security and the spy photographers is often borderline adversarial.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

deucestudios said:


> That's what I'm sayin, I think. Is gear ratio just part of the calculation of final drive ratio, so it has no affect on torque?


Any Gearing affects wheel torque. But it also affects wheel speed... 

Which is why in the end... the Horsepower output is exactly same.


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

why do people use a trademark theme for a donk ????


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## dunhamjr (May 21, 2002)

Cameron said:


> Why do motors still use timing belts/chains and overhead cams and all that mechanics ... rather than controlling the valves directly with solenoids (controlled by the computer). Is it an issue of speed? That the mechanically operated valves open/close faster and more accurately than a solenoid could manage?
> 
> I'd imagine that 100% computer (ECU) controlled valves would provide huge benefits, while also eliminating a lot of mechanical parts.
> 
> ...


My take.

The mechanical methods are tried and true. They work. They are reliable over many, many, many miles.

In most cases cars have far more electrical and electronics failures then actual mechanical failures.

Up until recently, the hardware to do these tasks with electrics really was not up to snuff in ability or durability.

There are people out there working on doing what you suggest, but really with these technologies we are turning cars away from being a machine and making them more 'computer' like.

*Really* not looking forward to my car giving me a 'BSOD' 12 times a day.


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## MagicBus (Oct 3, 2003)

2 doors said:


> Are VW Eurovans Front or Rear wheel drive? I know all the old Transporters were RWD, but when they moved the engine to the front, did they keep them RWD? I'm confused because these came out in the Chysler Minivan era.


Eurovans were front wheel drive, although I think there was a Syncro 4WD version we didn't get in the states.

Vanagons were RWD and Syncro 4WD. Everything previous to that was strictly RWD.


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## Armed Escort (Jul 30, 2003)

Ok, I've noticed this soooooo many times it's started to bother me. On the back of a Pontiac Montana (you see a lot of them around here) there's like a little cutout on the rear bumper and it looks like it was designed for a European plate, but they don't sell them over there, so wtf is with the rear bumper design? I've become OCD about this and I actually want to know the answer.


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## JoeRRR (Feb 25, 2007)

Armed Escort said:


> Ok, I've noticed this soooooo many times it's started to bother me. On the back of a Pontiac Montana (you see a lot of them around here) there's like a little cutout on the rear bumper and it looks like it was designed for a European plate, but they don't sell them over there, so wtf is with the rear bumper design? I've become OCD about this and I actually want to know the answer.





mazda 3's also have what looks like a cutout for a European style plate.. bugs the hell out of me.


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## Lchop1.8T (Apr 19, 2005)

*V6 vs. Inline 6*

What are the pro and cons of V6 engines vs. Inline 6 engines? Why do certain manufactures typically stick with one or the other?


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## ohsnappe2 (May 20, 2008)

inline uses one head and has less moving parts.

vibrations in one less axis


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## Lchop1.8T (Apr 19, 2005)

Right. So, with that, why use the V6 configuration? Different depth and width proportions for engine bay placement? Any other factors?


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## 302W (Jul 24, 2004)

Armed Escort said:


> Ok, I've noticed this soooooo many times it's started to bother me. On the back of a Pontiac Montana (you see a lot of them around here) there's like a little cutout on the rear bumper and it looks like it was designed for a European plate, but they don't sell them over there, so wtf is with the rear bumper design? I've become OCD about this and I actually want to know the answer.


Where any of the versions of that GM minivan sold in Europe? Those things are examples of GM's badge engineering at its worst, and I believe the tailgate was identical across all model lines. So while the Pontiac might not have been sold there, maybe a different version was.


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## ohsnappe2 (May 20, 2008)

Lchop1.8T said:


> Right. So, with that, why use the V6 configuration? Different depth and width proportions for engine bay placement? Any other factors?



a i6 fwd car would be way wide

a v6 design for a a manufacturer would prob just be a quick redesign from the v8 or viceversa

i dunno these are all guesses. i like the idea of i6's


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Lchop1.8T said:


> Right. So, with that, why use the V6 configuration? Different depth and width proportions for engine bay placement? Any other factors?


yes.

it's all about packaging.

the engines in a "V" configuration tend to be shorter in at least 2 dimensions than a traditional inline configuratino (height and length), allowing for a smaller engine bay, changing the overall shape/size of the vehicle it comes in.

additionally, it's also easier to put a 6cyl engine in a front drive car that's got a transverse layout than it is for an inline six.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

TwoLitreVW said:


> additionally, it's also easier to put a 6cyl engine in a front drive car that's got a transverse layout than it is for an inline six.


except the exhaust routing of the front 3 cylinders usually looks retarded.


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## VdubChaos (Jul 30, 2004)

I have a question about muffler bearing. How does it work and where can I purchase one. I've heard so much about it and would love to put it on my car (mostly for bragging right purposes).


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## ohsnappe2 (May 20, 2008)

VdubChaos said:


> I have a question about muffler bearing. How does it work and where can I purchase one. I've heard so much about it and would love to put it on my car (mostly for bragging right purposes).


what a waste of your 17000 post


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

ohsnappe2 said:


> what a waste of your 17000 post


Don't worry... he can go hang out in OT, and stay 17,000 forever.


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## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

Lchop1.8T said:


> Right. So, with that, why use the V6 configuration? Different depth and width proportions for engine bay placement? Any other factors?


the orginial reason was crank shaft torque limits. a longer crack shaft requires more bracing and needs to be much stronger, then a shroter crank shaft.


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## Lchop1.8T (Apr 19, 2005)

Any differences in HP capabilities? For example, can you get more HP out of an I-6 vs a V-6 or visa versa, with the same displacement? Just curious.


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## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

Where do you normally look for used cars? The national sites like AutoTrader and Cars mostly have cars sold by a dealer. Craigslist contains multiple posts from the same seller, dealers, and posts that are spam containing my search parameters. Any advice?


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## MrRline (Apr 6, 2010)

I've never heard this till tonight, but im afraid to ask. Is there really such thing as proper spacing when installing new brake pads? A guy from work was talking tonight about pads wearing out after a years time, but after having a shop properly space them and install they lasted 4 years?


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Why do old muscle car engines smell so good? I'm talking about the exhaust.
I was riding (my bike) behind this lifted '89/'90 Bronco with a badass lumpy idle, and it just smelled like old power, like when you're at the drag strip. Newer cars don't have that same sweet exhaust smell.

Is it because of a lack of emissions regs back then? Unburnt fuel? Burning oil?


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## LA7VJetta (Jul 21, 2009)

No cats or other emissions equipment, some unburnt fuel. etc..


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

DonPatrizio said:


> Where do you normally look for used cars? The national sites like AutoTrader and Cars mostly have cars sold by a dealer. Craigslist contains multiple posts from the same seller, dealers, and posts that are spam containing my search parameters. Any advice?


I usually make a solid split:

Above 10k - AutoTrader
Below 10k - CraigsList

Although, the car I bought last week was $6000 and on AutoTrader.


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## samc (Jan 15, 2002)

dj_cronic_metal said:


> I've never heard this till tonight, but im afraid to ask. Is there really such thing as proper spacing when installing new brake pads? A guy from work was talking tonight about pads wearing out after a years time, but after having a shop properly space them and install they lasted 4 years?


I'd like to know this one as well, what is spacing?
I just replaced the pads on my brother-in-laws mini van and well you just put them on, what is there to space?


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## JeffIsLax (Mar 26, 2005)

DonPatrizio said:


> Where do you normally look for used cars? The national sites like AutoTrader and Cars mostly have cars sold by a dealer. Craigslist contains multiple posts from the same seller, dealers, and posts that are spam containing my search parameters. Any advice?


For craigslist, I usually search the "By Owner" section to get rid of all of the dealer posts. The private sellers in the DFW craigslist are usually pretty straightforward and do not overpost with unrelated search params. Every once and a while I'll search the Dealer classifieds, but they usually repost each car every day and leave the old add up. If I really want to look at used cars from a dealer, I'll check inventory on the websites for the local dealers.

Of course, I'm usually just browsing to see whats out there, not usually with intent to purchase. Your mileage may vary.


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## LindsayLowhan (May 29, 2010)

(Paris Hilton moment begin) Okay dumb question but I've always wondered this, break dust of some sorts......but....Why is it when I see a car with 3 clean wheels and the 4th wheel looks like its covered in brake dust almost to the point where its tinted brown/bronze and its *not* brake dust. How does this happen? It bothers me so much when I see a vehicle like this. Granted this is brake dust but it looks much worse then this, like the wheel was painted....







(paris hilton moment over)


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

It's rotor dust that rusts turning brown/red. Usually a sign that the rotor is softer than the pad...could be that one pad is too hard (defective) or one rotor is too soft (again, defective).


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## ph03n1x (Feb 22, 2011)

How do I smooth out my first gear starts? If I try to let out slow, it's rough, if I let go a little faster, I jerk. Do I always have to step the clutch to the floor or can I go less than that?


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

ph03n1x said:


> How do I smooth out my first gear starts? If I try to let out slow, it's rough, if I let go a little faster, I jerk. Do I always have to step the clutch to the floor or can I go less than that?


A little more gas will smooth it out. If it "chatters" you clutch is out of whack or dying. ALWAYS use full travel of the clutch.


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## yeayeayea (May 29, 2005)

LindsayLowhan said:


> (Paris Hilton moment begin) Okay dumb question but I've always wondered this, break dust of some sorts......but....Why is it when I see a car with 3 clean wheels and the 4th wheel looks like its covered in brake dust almost to the point where its tinted brown/bronze and its *not* brake dust. How does this happen? It bothers me so much when I see a vehicle like this. Granted this is brake dust but it looks much worse then this, like the wheel was painted....
> 
> 
> 
> ...


If you wear a brake pad down to the metal, it makes really nasty rust dust from where it starts removing the lips off the rotors from where the pad was not large enough to sweep the entire area of the disc.


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## ph03n1x (Feb 22, 2011)

When I drive my GTI, sometimes I feel the clutch pedal vibrating. Same feeling like when I drove a JSW TDi. Is it a normal thing that I shouldn't worry about? Or am I f*cking my clutch up?


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## MAGICGTI (Jul 3, 2003)

Armed Escort said:


> Ok, I've noticed this soooooo many times it's started to bother me. On the back of a Pontiac Montana (you see a lot of them around here) there's like a little cutout on the rear bumper and it looks like it was designed for a European plate, but they don't sell them over there, so wtf is with the rear bumper design? I've become OCD about this and I actually want to know the answer.


They sold the Opel Sintra in Europe...might have been a Vauxhall version too.


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

ph03n1x said:


> When I drive my GTI, sometimes I feel the clutch pedal vibrating. Same feeling like when I drove a JSW TDi. Is it a normal thing that I shouldn't worry about? Or am I f*cking my clutch up?


You are likely fine, a little vibration through the clutch is normal...but if it is really chattering, its a sign that the clutch is going out. It starts as intermittent but gets worse and eventually becomes slip.


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## WhitePoloCT (Jul 28, 2005)

This is a question that I'm definitely afraid to ask...

What do I replace the S2000 with? I'm bored... The ride is uncomfortable, it's too fast for the street (to have fun with legally), modding it costs stupid amounts of money, keeping just to go to the track once a month (there's only one track nearby, and only one track day a month) is silly.

What to do?


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

StormChaser said:


> You are likely fine, a little vibration through the clutch is normal...but if it is really chattering, its a sign that the clutch is going out. It starts as intermittent but gets worse and eventually becomes slip.


This is probably not the case with the above '11 GTI, but it could also be due to a slightly warped flywheel, or one that didn't get resurfaced correctly during a clutch change. I had an '84 Accord that would chatter terribly in reverse for years. The clutch was fine otherwise.


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## ohsnappe2 (May 20, 2008)

1) Why didnt 4 wheel steering catch on?
2) why paint and not powdercoat a car


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

I have that feeling through the hydraulic clutch on my TDI, but not on the VR6. I'd expect it's more evident on a 4 cylinder, and it's almost a deep tissue foot massage on my older TDI.


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## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

WhitePoloCT said:


> What do I replace the S2000 with? I'm bored... The ride is uncomfortable, it's too fast for the street (to have fun with legally), modding it costs stupid amounts of money, keeping just to go to the track once a month (there's only one track nearby, and only one track day a month) is silly. What to do?


What are you looking for in another car? Do you need more space or just a softer ride? Maybe E46 BMW coupes, MkV or VI GTIs, Legacy GTs, or Acura CLs interest you?


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## AndyTR32 (Jun 4, 2003)

ph03n1x said:


> When I drive my GTI, sometimes I feel the clutch pedal vibrating. Same feeling like when I drove a JSW TDi. Is it a normal thing that I shouldn't worry about? Or am I f*cking my clutch up?


This reads like you are resting your left foot on the clutch pedal while the clutch is engaged. This will defitely wear things out.


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## WhitePoloCT (Jul 28, 2005)

DonPatrizio said:


> What are you looking for in another car? Do you need more space or just a softer ride? Maybe E46 BMW coupes, MkV or VI GTIs, Legacy GTs, or Acura CLs interest you?


RWD, two doors a preference but not a necessity, potential.

I took a drive this morning... I think it may be that I only drive it weekends, so I don't really get to spend a lot of time enjoying driving it.


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## iLoveMyIS (Jun 21, 2007)

Something I was always tempted to try on my last car.

In an automatic, is it possible to shift from Drive to Reverse while moving at moderate-to-high speeds (i.e. 30mph+).


----------



## pedrosan (Feb 6, 2005)

Mythbusters was wondering the same thing. Looks like its impossible to do,,maybe not on an older car. Sorry about the crappy video quality.


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

ohsnappe2 said:


> 1) Why didnt 4 wheel steering catch on?
> 2) why paint and not powdercoat a car


1. Too many moving parts. Cost vs. function thing.
2. Many cars are powdercoated at the factory. Certain paint processes use powder color coats.


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## yeayeayea (May 29, 2005)

atomicalex said:


> 1. Too many moving parts. Cost vs. function thing.
> 2. Many cars are powdercoated at the factory. Certain paint processes use powder color coats.


Please show some evidence with that second claim. You do know powdercoat requires baking said car, and typically powdercoats take 15 minutes of baking to cure after reaching point of flow out, which can take anywhere from 2 to 20 minutes depending on material type/thickness/size. Additionally there is the problem that powdercoating plastics is an absolute nightmare, so bumpers would have to be sprayed with regular paints, making colormatching a real hassle.


----------



## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

If I start a car up, take out the ignition relay plug from the wire harness, then give the car gas, what will happen? Will I stall? Or will the car run fine (because the plug is only to start the car and nothing else).


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## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

C4 A6 said:


> If I start a car up, *take out the ignition relay plug from the wire harness,* then give the car gas, what will happen? Will I stall? Or will the car run fine (because the plug is only to start the car and nothing else).


Car wont start without that...


----------



## yeayeayea (May 29, 2005)

iLoveMyIS said:


> Something I was always tempted to try on my last car.
> 
> In an automatic, is it possible to shift from Drive to Reverse while moving at moderate-to-high speeds (i.e. 30mph+).


I accidently did this in my 1981 f100. Tried shifting into neutral to coast (hypermilling an f100, an exercise in futility) and threw the lever too far. It did not stop the truck, but it did grind the gears pretty bad. however people do the opposite, go from reverse to first when doing burnouts so i guess its possible.


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## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

yeayeayea said:


> Please show some evidence with that second claim. You do know powdercoat requires baking said car, and typically powdercoats take 15 minutes of baking to cure after reaching point of flow out, which can take anywhere from 2 to 20 minutes depending on material type/thickness/size. Additionally there is the problem that powdercoating plastics is an absolute nightmare, so bumpers would have to be sprayed with regular paints, making colormatching a real hassle.


Tell me you've actually set foot in an automotive paintshop, and we can discuss.

Your average, off-the-shelf "powdercoat" is not the same thing as a powder color or clear coat on an auto assembly line, and your average "mom's old range" powdercoat oven is not the same as the ovens used to bake off OEM paint. The reason your off-the-shelf powdercoat takes so long to fuse is because the particle size is ginormous and your oven can't reach PMT fast enough.


----------



## yeayeayea (May 29, 2005)

atomicalex said:


> Tell me you've actually set foot in an automotive paintshop, and we can discuss.
> 
> Your average, off-the-shelf "powdercoat" is not the same thing as a powder color or clear coat on an auto assembly line, and your average "mom's old range" powdercoat oven is not the same as the ovens used to bake off OEM paint. The reason your off-the-shelf powdercoat takes so long to fuse is because the particle size is ginormous and your oven can't reach PMT fast enough.


Well like i said, I would love to see these setups. because everything I have seen has been robotic arms spraying liquid paint, or vehicles going through paint baths.


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## Techun (Dec 27, 2006)

uh guys, keep your feet off of your clutch pedal unless you're pushing it down


----------



## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

Does the moon affect oil pressure?


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## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

yeayeayea said:


> Well like i said, I would love to see these setups. because everything I have seen has been robotic arms spraying liquid paint, or vehicles going through paint baths.


The "liquid" isn't always "liquid", and the "paint" baths aren't actually paint. 

The paint robots spray liquid or powder, depending on what they are designed for. Most are electrostatic now, which improves the paint coverage and reduces lost paint to overspray. Powders work far better for this than liquids, and this reduces cost substaintially.

The "paint" baths you are thinking of are electrocoat baths, and e-coat is not even primer. It's part of the corrosion protection system.


----------



## yeayeayea (May 29, 2005)

atomicalex said:


> The "liquid" isn't always "liquid", and the "paint" baths aren't actually paint.
> 
> The paint robots spray liquid or powder, depending on what they are designed for. Most are electrostatic now, which improves the paint coverage and reduces lost paint to overspray. Powders work far better for this than liquids, and this reduces cost substaintially.
> 
> The "paint" baths you are thinking of are electrocoat baths, and e-coat is not even primer. It's part of the corrosion protection system.


I do both electrostatic painting and powdercoating, so I am familiar with both. What I have not been able to find is any proof that auto makers are doing anything other than baking traditional solvent or water based paints, not powdercoat finishes.


----------



## Alfatrucker (Nov 19, 2010)

How. Do you signal someone behind you to pass you?


----------



## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

How come when I am cruising along at close to the speed limit, I never see a cop.
But omg when I need to speed to a destination, they seem to be everywhere?


----------



## yeayeayea (May 29, 2005)

Alfatrucker said:


> How. Do you signal someone behind you to pass you?


hand out the window, wave em by. or just pull over to the shoulder.



BRealistic said:


> How come when I am cruising along at close to the speed limit, I never see a cop.
> But omg when I need to speed to a destination, they seem to be everywhere?


YOu arent looking for them when you are not speeding.


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## Alfatrucker (Nov 19, 2010)

BRealistic said:


> How come when I am cruising along at close to the speed limit, I never see a cop.
> But omg when I need to speed to a destination, they seem to be everywhere?


Your rotary engine creates a low frequency signal at higher rpm that only law enforcement can detect.:laugh:


Or is that high frequency.


----------



## buttonsHT (Feb 8, 2011)

C4 A6 said:


> *If I start a car up,* take out the ignition relay plug from the wire harness, then give the car gas, what will happen? Will I stall? Or will the car run fine (because the plug is only to start the car and nothing else).





RacerrRex said:


> Car wont start without that...


Did you read the first part??


----------



## stascom (Sep 12, 2009)

Alfatrucker said:


> How. Do you signal someone behind you to pass you?


Camry brake slam.


----------



## babydubz (Dec 13, 2007)

what is that little black square on the front grill to the right of the emblem. i see it on a lot of new cars. ive seen it on the lower grill of the Sienna as well...










my first guess is laser guided cruise control? :screwy:


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

buttonsHT said:


> Did you read the first part??


:laugh:

Still haven't gotten my question answered. The only reason I'm not trying this on my car is because my car isn't exactly something I experiment with (not this one at least). And I can't find the plug on my daily.

I'm not asking anyone to go try, I'm just wondering if anyone has tried it before. Can't be the first time this has been asked in the world.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

babydubz said:


> what is that little black square on the front grill to the right of the emblem. i see it on a lot of new cars.


I've been wondering this myself. Bump for answers.


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## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

wtf does 'bagged' mean, and is this what murdered out means:


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

Dravenport said:


> wtf does 'bagged' mean, and is this what murdered out means:


Bagged I think has something to do with stance and being lowered to absolute lowest common denominator.

Murdered out is a style where EVERYTHING on the car is black. Windows, lights, wheels, seats, pedals, etc.


----------



## Ronin-CL (Jan 31, 2011)

babydubz said:


> what is that little black square on the front grill to the right of the emblem. i see it on a lot of new cars. ive seen it on the lower grill of the Sienna as well...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You are correct.

"Laser-based sensors must be exposed, the sensor (a fairly large black box) is typically found in the lower grille offset to one side of the vehicle."

from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autonomous_cruise_control_system


----------



## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

C4 A6 said:


> Murdered out is a style where EVERYTHING on the car is black. Windows, lights, wheels, seats, pedals, etc.


that's kind of retarded


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

C4 A6 said:


> Bagged I think has something to do with stance and being lowered to absolute lowest common denominator.


How long have you been around? "Bagged" refers to using airbag suspension.


----------



## Rejekt (Nov 1, 2007)

Just thought about it today

Anybody know why all of the Lotus model names start with an E?


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Rejekt said:


> Just thought about it today
> 
> Anybody know why all of the Lotus model names start with an E?


"Legend has it that when the Eleven came out, Colin Chapman liked the way "Lotus Eleven" rolled off his tongue. Therefore every Lotus road car afterwards began with an "E". "


----------



## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

here is one for you all - 

it seems with teh upgrades already on my 951, i can easily hit 270+ whp by replacing the wastegate with a dual port, and then running a manual boost controler, which is just a regulator basically. here is my question - 

do i need to get the car on the dyno and tune the A/F and injectors and all that jazz or will the autothority chip in the car understand that it needs need to dump more fuel with the much higher boost pressures?


----------



## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

atomicalex said:


> How long have you been around? "Bagged" refers to using airbag suspension.


Hence why I said "think. I'm not a stance *** :snowcool:


----------



## RogerRabbit83 (Dec 3, 2007)

What is colder, the A/C or MAX A/C function. Usually the AC setting takes in air from the outside and then has to cool it. The MAX A/C usually takes recirculated air and then keeps it cooled.

Which one is actually colder???


----------



## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

That would depend on inside versus outside temp and even then it only matters for initial cooldown. . if its cooler outside than in, then non-recirculated air will be colder, if its cooler inside the car than out, the recirc will be cooler. But after a while it equals out, in either case the vent temps should drop to the mid 30s.


----------



## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

Alfatrucker said:


> Your rotary engine creates a low frequency signal at higher rpm that only law enforcement can detect.:laugh:
> 
> 
> Or is that high frequency.


So it makes a frequency only audible to police?

It's a pig whistle.


----------



## 302W (Jul 24, 2004)

StormChaser said:


> But after a while it equals out,


Are you sure about that part? In my experience recirc is always cooler once the a/c has been on for a little while. Rather than drawing in the air from a 90 degree summer day, its drawing in air from your 70 degree interior.


----------



## Michael_Scott (May 28, 2008)

How can I tell if my car has a Limited Slip Differential?

I know my car had the option to have one from the factory.


----------



## yeayeayea (May 29, 2005)

302W said:


> Are you sure about that part? In my experience recirc is always cooler once the a/c has been on for a little while. Rather than drawing in the air from a 90 degree summer day, its drawing in air from your 70 degree interior.


reread what he said. he agrees with you when the ambient temp is higher than the cabin temp. however he said if the ambient temp is lower than the cabin temp, then the regular ac setting will blow colder. this is assuming humidity is constant between both, as that will affect cooling. In recirc mode you will eventually condense some of the moisture in the cabin and it will drain out under the car. 60* air that is dry will cool easier than 60* air that is humid.




MatthewDorsett said:


> How can I tell if my car has a Limited Slip Differential?
> 
> I know my car had the option to have one from the factory.


burnouts, lots of them. Or perhaps the dealer could run your vin and see if you have a LSD or not. there is a chance the servicing of LSD transmissions is different than servicing regular transmissions, thus the dealer would have to have some way of discerning between the two.


----------



## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

302W said:


> Are you sure about that part? In my experience recirc is always cooler once the a/c has been on for a little while. Rather than drawing in the air from a 90 degree summer day, its drawing in air from your 70 degree interior.


Try hitting it with a thermometer, it usually is the same...what you may be feeling is the significantly DRYER air.


----------



## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

Might be a stupid question but I always wondered why cars (mostly automatics) smell burnt after you drive spirited??


----------



## yeayeayea (May 29, 2005)

StormChaser said:


> Try hitting it with a thermometer, it usually is the same...what you may be feeling is the significantly DRYER air.


this conversation reminds me of wet bulb vs dry bulb, and i already had a migraine.


----------



## yeayeayea (May 29, 2005)

2.0_Mazda said:


> Might be a stupid question but I always wondered why cars (mostly automatics) smell burnt after you drive spirited??


bargain brakes getting cooked?


----------



## 302W (Jul 24, 2004)

StormChaser said:


> Try hitting it with a thermometer, it usually is the same...what you may be feeling is the significantly DRYER air.


Ahhh, cool :thumbup:


----------



## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

yeayeayea said:


> bargain brakes getting cooked?


I thought so but I remember experimenting; pushing an autobox but not braking any differently… Still smelt cooked


----------



## stascom (Sep 12, 2009)

2.0_Mazda said:


> I thought so but I remember experimenting; pushing an autobox but not braking any differently… Still smelt cooked


Tires? I always smell tires after a spirited run (even though so skids or slides).


----------



## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

What are the stories behind:
1. Ban Hawc

2. Enzodude


----------



## WhitePoloCT (Jul 28, 2005)

MightyDSM said:


> What are the stories behind:
> 1. Ban Hawc


Hawc, or Hawk as he is called now, posted pics of his Boxster a LOT. Sort of a "look at my car" type way. He also knew very little about it, once saying that his Boxster has a boxster engine.

In other words, he irritated everyone.



MightyDSM said:


> What are the stories behind:
> 2. Enzodude


Someone posted a pic of a shirtless black man stretching in front of an Enzo at some car show, while putting on/adjusting his sunglasses. For some reason people found that hilarious, so a meme (Enzodude) was born.


----------



## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

WhitePoloCT said:


> Hawc, or Hawk as he is called now, posted pics of his Boxster a LOT. Sort of a "look at my car" type way. He also knew very little about it, once saying that his Boxster has a boxster engine.
> 
> In other words, he irritated everyone.
> 
> ...


Haha
Thanks.

I thought enzodude was a member here


----------



## RogerRabbit83 (Dec 3, 2007)

What is the $30,000 Jetta and why must it never be forgotten?


----------



## pinktshirt (Jul 25, 2007)

RogerRabbit83 said:


> What is the $30,000 Jetta and why must it never be forgotten?


DUDE! Shhhh or they'll call the FBI :banghead:


----------



## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

RogerRabbit83 said:


> What is the $30,000 Jetta and why must it never be forgotten?


A lady in FL was selling a prime MKIII Jetta complete with a Porsche Engine™ on Craigslist for a measly thirty thousand dollars. She also happened to be a lesbian. She took great offence at being called a lesbian.


----------



## 92skirmishgti (Sep 5, 2005)

MightyDSM said:


> Haha
> Thanks.
> 
> I thought enzodude was a member here


Visual reference...


----------



## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

pinktshirt said:


> DUDE! Shhhh or they'll call the FBI :banghead:


FBI?

Female Butch Investigations?


----------



## zrace07 (Jul 26, 2007)

Kritter said:


> _Quote, originally posted by *JUSTINCASE1021* »_why were some 2002 golfs called the "337" ???
> 
> 337 was the internal project code VW used for the MKI. the 2002/03 model was the anniversary edition of the GTI in NA, thus the 337 designation.


The wheels are BBS RC337 to boot


----------



## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

RogerRabbit83 said:


> What is the $30,000 Jetta and why must it never be forgotten?


Because being ignorant is funny, real lols come when they fight back.

Reference the following:

Charlie Sheen
Jessie Slaughter 
Charlie Wenzel - http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=399203
NSX_Nick - http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98489


----------



## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

I always thought that picture of guy in front of Enzo was photoshopped...just looks out of place lol


----------



## JeffIsLax (Mar 26, 2005)

MatthewDorsett said:


> How can I tell if my car has a Limited Slip Differential?
> 
> I know my car had the option to have one from the factory.


Put the front end on jackstands, and rotate one of the wheels by hand. If the other wheel rotates the same direction that you are rotating the other, you have a LSD. If the other wheel rotates in the opposite direction, you do not.


----------



## kroutbrner (Nov 2, 2009)

Why do you drive on a "parkway" and park on a "driveway"?


----------



## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

kroutbrner said:


> Why do you drive on a "parkway" and park on a "driveway"?


----------



## jettafan[atic] (Dec 2, 2008)

RogerRabbit83 said:


> What is colder, the A/C or MAX A/C function. Usually the AC setting takes in air from the outside and then has to cool it. The MAX A/C usually takes recirculated air and then keeps it cooled.
> 
> Which one is actually colder???


Ok, gonna try to put this one to bed: Max a/c is colder, generally put it is colder because it turns on the recirc. As it was said earlier without having recirculation turned on it is drawing ambient air through the a/c system and cooling it as much as it can before it gets blown into the cabin. With recirculation turned on it is taking the already cooled air from the cabin and circulating it back through the a/c further cooling it. Of course individual cars will vary but generally speaking the recirculated air temps should be 8* F cooler.


----------



## Das Borgen (Sep 10, 2008)

JeffIsLax said:


> Put the front end on jackstands, and rotate one of the wheels by hand. If the other wheel rotates the same direction that you are rotating the other, you have a LSD. If the other wheel rotates in the opposite direction, you do not.


doesn t work on Torsens (torque sensing) though


----------



## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

kroutbrner said:


> Why do you drive on a "parkway" and park on a "driveway"?


Har, har. But if that is a serious question...the 'park' in parkway refers to the pleasant, park-like setting. Not a stationary vehicle.



Wikipedia said:


> The first parkways in the United States were developed in the late 19th Century by landscape architects Frederick Law Olmsted and Beatrix Farrand as roads segregated for pedestrians, bicyclists, equestrians, and horse carriages, such as the Eastern Parkway and Ocean Parkway in Brooklyn, New York. The terminology "parkway" to define this type of road was coined by Calvert Vaux and Frederick Law Olmsted in their proposal to link city and suburban parks with "pleasure roads." Newer roads such as the Bidwell and Lincoln Parkways in Buffalo, New York were designed for automobiles and are broad and divided by large landscaped central medians. Parkways can be the approach to large urban parks, such as the Mystic Valley Parkway to Boston Common in Boston. Some separated express lanes from local lanes, though this was not always the case.
> 
> During the early 20th century, the meaning of the word was expanded to include limited-access highways designed for recreational driving of automobiles with landscaping. These parkways originally provided scenic routes without at grade intersections, very slow vehicles, or pedestrian traffic. Their success led to more development however, expanding a city's boundaries, eventually limiting their recreational driving use. The Arroyo Seco Parkway between Downtown Los Angeles and Pasadena, California is an example of lost pastoral aesthetics. It and others have become major commuting routes, while retaining the name parkway.


----------



## MAC (Dec 9, 1999)

How the hell do balls of tar get inside the barrel of alloy wheels ?


----------



## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

wtf does GTG mean? i know it's a meet or something like cars and coffee, but seems to have a negative connotation


----------



## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

Dravenport said:


> wtf does GTG mean? i know it's a meet or something like cars and coffee, but seems to have a negative connotation


Get ToGether


----------



## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

StormChaser said:


> Get ToGether


that's terrible.


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

MAC said:


> How the hell do balls of tar get inside the barrel of alloy wheels ?


Typically not "tar", but either bits of melted rubber from (a)buse of tires, or CV joint grease mixed with road dirt.


----------



## MAC (Dec 9, 1999)

Then I have another question. How am I getting CV joint grease inside the rear wheels of a front wheel drive car ?


----------



## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

why do a lot of race cars black out their headlights?


----------



## pueblorrado v3.0 (Nov 22, 2006)

atomicalex said:


> The "liquid" isn't always "liquid", and the "paint" baths aren't actually paint.
> 
> The paint robots spray liquid or powder, depending on what they are designed for. Most are electrostatic now, which improves the paint coverage and reduces lost paint to overspray. Powders work far better for this than liquids, and this reduces cost substaintially.
> 
> The "paint" baths you are thinking of are electrocoat baths, and e-coat is not even primer. It's part of the corrosion protection system.


late addition:

also consider the fact that very few, if any, cars actually use all metallic panels these days. typically bumper covers are plastic, so i would imagine that you cant use electrostatic powdercoating for these panels, and you probably couldnt ever make a paint to match the powder coat on the rest of the vehicle, so it just isnt used at all.


----------



## jfolt (Nov 5, 2008)

Dravenport said:


> why do a lot of race cars black out their headlights?


not sure if you're talking about the tape, but usually they will put painters or masking tape on the lights so if they hit something the glass doesnt shatter onto the track.


----------



## 5P4RK4 (Jun 24, 2004)

plus it looks bad ass.


----------



## WhitePoloCT (Jul 28, 2005)

Can someone please explain falling rate versus rising rate suspension designs using rocker arms?

Mentioned on this page: http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_arti...don-davis-acs-express-ford-mustang-cobra.aspx


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

WhitePoloCT said:


> Can someone please explain falling rate versus rising rate suspension designs using rocker arms?
> 
> Mentioned on this page: http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_arti...don-davis-acs-express-ford-mustang-cobra.aspx


I don't have an answer, but  that is one insane chassis. 

If I had to hazard a guess.....I'd assume the length and geometry of the rocker, "swing-arms", shock placement, and various other mech-engineering factors can affect the spring rates in all sorts of ways. I know from the full-suspension mountain bike world that a 4-bar rocker-link suspension design affects the suspension differently than single-pivot, parallelogram, fsr, dw-link etc, and that each design will spec a different shock with varying rates of travel, valving, etc...

Anyway, I'm not an expert at either FS bikes or racing Mustangs, but all of this talking-out-my-ass amounts to this: I think it's all in the geometry, rather than in the spring rates of the shock itself.


----------



## yeayeayea (May 29, 2005)

MrMook said:


> I don't have an answer, but  that is one insane chassis.
> 
> If I had to hazard a guess.....I'd assume the length and geometry of the rocker, "swing-arms", shock placement, and various other mech-engineering factors can affect the spring rates in all sorts of ways. I know from the full-suspension mountain bike world that a 4-bar rocker-link suspension design affects the suspension differently than single-pivot, parallelogram, fsr, dw-link etc, and that each design will spec a different shock with varying rates of travel, valving, etc...
> 
> Anyway, I'm not an expert at either FS bikes or racing Mustangs, but all of this talking-out-my-ass amounts to this: I think it's all in the geometry, rather than in the spring rates of the shock itself.


If i was to take a guess, i would say rising rate would mean that the amount of force required to compress the spring from rest to 1" of travel would be "x" amount, while the force required to compress it another inch would require "x" + some additional force. meaning inch for inch, it is harder to compress it. I would guess falling rate would mean the second inch of suspension travel would require less force than the first.


again, only a guess


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

This falling-rate thing is interesting to me, but a google search only brings up MTB (generally thought to be poor design for bikes) and Snowmobile results. Either way, it's closely associated with "plushness". The snowmobile sector had a little more info:



> A rear track suspension for a snowmobile having a single resilient element for biasing both the front and rear arms. The slide rail is permitted to pitch between first and second pitching constraints in response to terrain obstacles in a gradual manner as the motion constraints are approached. This reduces jarring of the rider when the pitching constraints are met. *Suspension compression exhibits an initial falling rate motion ratio, followed by a constant rate motion ratio, followed by a rising rate motion ratio. This U-shaped motion ratio profile advantageously provides cushioning upon landing along with a resistance to bottoming out of the suspension upon full compression. The result is an improved ride without sacrificing suspension performance.*


If that's anything to go by, perhaps there is something to it, rather than the apparent disadvantage of a lower and lower spring rate as the suspension is compressed in a corner. I'd love to hear someone with automotive experience with this. Sounds great for a sport-tuned street car (comfort and performance), but unnecessary for a track rat (unless it's an endurance application).

Also, in each of these (that car, the bikes, and the sleds) the falling rate function seems to be achieved with a rocker-link setup.


----------



## WhitePoloCT (Jul 28, 2005)

I also found a bunch of MTB info... I couldn't find any images comparing the two though, which is what I'd ideally like to see.


----------



## aussie88 (Dec 13, 2010)

sorry if this has already been asked but what are the origins of the crub, fents and burshers i am always hearing about ?


----------



## lojasmo (Dec 23, 2002)

aussie88 said:


> sorry if this has already been asked but what are the origins of the crub, fents and burshers i am always hearing about ?


Some retard wrecked his car and posted a thread about it.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1585597

Original thread is black holed.


----------



## aussie88 (Dec 13, 2010)

lojasmo said:


> Some retard wrecked his car and posted a thread about it.
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1585597
> 
> Original thread is black holed.


hahahah i can see why that stuck now


----------



## freedomweasel (Apr 15, 2010)

I was watching some races this past weekend and noticed that the techs tighten up the lug nuts in a circular pattern when swapping wheels. I was always taught to tighten them in a star pattern to make sure everything is even.

I'd assume if it's good enough for a race car it's good enough for my commute.. what's the deal?


----------



## yeayeayea (May 29, 2005)

freedomweasel said:


> I was watching some races this past weekend and noticed that the techs tighten up the lug nuts in a circular pattern when swapping wheels. I was always taught to tighten them in a star pattern to make sure everything is even.
> 
> I'd assume if it's good enough for a race car it's good enough for my commute.. what's the deal?


I bet its just to save time


----------



## freedomweasel (Apr 15, 2010)

yeayeayea said:


> I bet its just to save time


Well, it's definitely faster and less likely to miss one or something, but won't all the terrible things that will apparently happen to me happen to the race car only at a higher speed? With the amount of time spent getting alignments and everything just right I'd think they'd want to make sure their wheel isn't a bit crooked or something. Is it that they change wheel so often anyway that it doesn't really matter?


----------



## NjDriver (Oct 5, 2009)

Sooo if I put jet fuel in my car it will go as fast as a jet? 

Sent From Phone Using My Mind


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

This thread has been very welcoming to those asking "dumb" questions, and so far there's been very little ridicule, so please don't troll.


----------



## DTMTrini (Jul 26, 2007)

When a car is on a dyno, how come they don't go full throttle for each gear?


----------



## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

Running from low RPM in 1 gear (Usually 4th because it is closest to 1:1 gear ratio) provides the most accurate results.


----------



## chucchinchilla (Dec 25, 2004)

When hand washing my car, would using a gas powered leaf blower to blow the car dry damage the car in any way? I'm worried about particulates/etc scratching the paint.


----------



## Bullethead (Apr 25, 2011)

These work better.


----------



## under the radar (Mar 5, 2007)

ok, i've never owned a subaru. my housemate has an '05 WRX. one of his tires was damaged by road debris and the tire shop told him because of subaru's AWD system, he had to replace all four tires. i said that he got shafted by the tire shop, but he says i'm wrong. so, do you need to replace all four tire at the same time on a subaru? i've never heard such a thing.


----------



## DTMTrini (Jul 26, 2007)

mellbergVWfan said:


> Running from low RPM in 1 gear (Usually 4th because it is closest to 1:1 gear ratio) provides the most accurate results.


:thumbup: thanks


----------



## 302W (Jul 24, 2004)

under the radar said:


> ok, i've never owned a subaru. my housemate has an '05 WRX. one of his tires was damaged by road debris and the tire shop told him because of subaru's AWD system, he had to replace all four tires. i said that he got shafted by the tire shop, but he says i'm wrong. so, do you need to replace all four tire at the same time on a subaru? i've never heard such a thing.


I've heard it, but I've also heard that matching all 4 is overkill and just matching the 2 on the same axle is enough.


----------



## VeeDub Bowtie (Jul 10, 2003)

On an AWD car like a Subaru if you have a larger diameter set of tires on one axle and a smaller diameter on the other you could soon be buying a new center diff.

The Haldex coupling will assume that there is wheelspin somewhere and try to compensate.

If his old tires aren't worn much he may have been OK. I'm unsure of the tolerance in the AWD system.


----------



## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

Does the Tata Nano come with a jack, or just a pair of work gloves and a list of phone numbers to burly guys/gals?


----------



## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

VeeDub Bowtie said:


> On an AWD car like a Subaru if you have a larger diameter set of tires on one axle and a smaller diameter on the other you could soon be buying a new center diff.
> 
> The Haldex coupling will assume that there is wheelspin somewhere and try to compensate.
> 
> If his old tires aren't worn much he may have been OK. I'm unsure of the tolerance in the AWD system.


Well, on older Audis, you could get away with tire changes as long as there wasnt a drastic difference in the amount of tread left. A couple of 32nds difference wont matter...jsut have the tiers off by a couple of pounds of air would do the same thing.


----------



## aussie88 (Dec 13, 2010)

i gotta ask whats with the car spy shots where the cars are covered in weird patterns?
like so \/


----------



## Varrr6 (Jan 16, 2002)

aussie88 said:


> i gotta ask whats with the car spy shots where the cars are covered in weird patterns?
> like so \/


to disguise the body lines. the patterns make it more difficult for your eyes to pick out the lines.


----------



## gtivr4 (Sep 22, 2000)

VeeDub Bowtie said:


> On an AWD car like a Subaru if you have a larger diameter set of tires on one axle and a smaller diameter on the other you could soon be buying a new center diff.
> 
> The Haldex coupling will assume that there is wheelspin somewhere and try to compensate.
> 
> If his old tires aren't worn much he may have been OK. I'm unsure of the tolerance in the AWD system.


A WRX doesn't have a haldex system. They run a viscous coupled center differential that uses fluid to control how much power is going front/back (assuming its a manual transmission). So they won't blow up if you run slightly different tire diameters. The tire thing depends on how worn out the other three tires were. If they were all pretty well worn, a single new tire could cause problems with the AWD system, and more importantly with its handling. Best to replace 2 at a time on any car if there is much of a difference.


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

All the locals in my neighborhood use Clubs, or even more cumbersome steering wheel discs (which must weigh 15lbs). Is there any use for "The Club" on a modern car? Don't all cars now come with the column-lock ignition mechanism?


----------



## Stroker McCarlo (Feb 10, 2011)

I noticed this today on Porsche USA's website :

*Porsche sales in North America*
1986....30,471
1987....23,632
1988....15,737
1989.....9,479
1990.....9,140
1991.....4,388
1992.....4,131
http://press.porsche.com/more_about/statistics/

Can any of you guys explain this massive decline in sales?


----------



## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

MrMook said:


> All the locals in my neighborhood use Clubs, or even more cumbersome steering wheel discs (which must weigh 15lbs). Is there any use for "The Club" on a modern car? Don't all cars now come with the column-lock ignition mechanism?


In theory it's still a deterrent to a crime of opportunity. The thief would have to break the ignition lock and hacksaw off a club. To steal the car next door he only has to break the ignition lock so why not take that one instead?


----------



## Gitcha Sum (May 27, 2008)

Stroker McCarlo said:


> Can any of you guys explain this massive decline in sales?


e30  (semi serious)
Probably has to do with the Mustang un-suckifying itself around that time too. 
That's all guessing though.


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Roadkilled78 said:


> In theory it's still a deterrent to a crime of opportunity. The thief would have to break the ignition lock and hacksaw off a club. To steal the car next door he only has to break the ignition lock so why not take that one instead?


Is the ignition lock that easy to break? I've never tried. 
Also seems like the easiest way to get the Club off would be two cuts to the steering wheel, allowing you to remove the club, and drive off with most of the wheel intact.


----------



## gtivr4 (Sep 22, 2000)

Stroker McCarlo said:


> I noticed this today on Porsche USA's website :
> 
> *Porsche sales in North America*
> 1986....30,471
> ...


I expect its an issue of exchange rates and economy.


----------



## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

It's also that Porsche went up-market back then. That was right around the time the 944 went from reasonably priced to over-priced to the point it was no longer worth it by comparison to the competition.


----------



## IC AI (Aug 29, 2008)

How many cars have had the 3-seats in the front arrangement, like the Matra-Simca Bagherra or the McLaren F1?


----------



## Bias_Ply (Feb 6, 2010)

Depending on how tight your definition is, most Chrysler and Buick products between 1950 and 1990 have that setup


----------



## IC AI (Aug 29, 2008)

Bias_Ply said:


> Depending on how tight your definition is, most Chrysler and Buick products between 1950 and 1990 have that setup


I meant 3 separate seats, with no seats in the back. 3+0.


----------



## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

I don't believe my question was ever answered:

If I start my car up, take out the ignition relay plug (that is used to start the car), and give it gas, will the car run or stall?


----------



## NjDriver (Oct 5, 2009)

Why would you ever do that?


I think it would run since the relay is probbly only used to start the car.... disrupting the electrical system while running is pretty dangerous though

Sent From Phone Using My Mind


----------



## yeayeayea (May 29, 2005)

C4 A6 said:


> I don't believe my question was ever answered:
> 
> If I start my car up, take out the ignition relay plug (that is used to start the car), and give it gas, will the car run or stall?


Hold your finger on it. Start the car, you should feel it click as soon as you try to start it as the relay pulls in. If it clicks again once the car starts, I would imagine that is the relay opening back up. If so, I would imagine you can pull it no problem and it will run. If the relay does not open back up then pulling it may cause you to stall


----------



## JorgenP (Apr 8, 2010)

When manual cars are being tested the 0-60mph test, then do they start from 1st gear or upper, to get a better time that will be lost by shifting?


----------



## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

NjDriver said:


> Why would you ever do that?
> 
> 
> I think it would run since the relay is probbly only used to start the car.... disrupting the electrical system while running is pretty dangerous though
> ...


Yea, I see how it would be dangerous for me and the car. It's more of a paranoia thing that I wanna take it out.



yeayeayea said:


> Hold your finger on it. Start the car, you should feel it click as soon as you try to start it as the relay pulls in. If it clicks again once the car starts, I would imagine that is the relay opening back up. If so, I would imagine you can pull it no problem and it will run. If the relay does not open back up then pulling it may cause you to stall


Alright, thanks for the help guys!



JorgenP said:


> When manual cars are being tested the 0-60mph test, then do they start from 1st gear or upper, to get a better time that will be lost by shifting?


I'm not sure if this is true for ALL magazine/car tests, but I know Road&Track starts in 1st gear because when you look at their speed/time chart, you can see the drops in speed as they shift. Also, I don't see why anyone would want to start in 2nd since I think more time is lost when the engine is struggling than if you launched it in 1st and shifted at redline. And if the test driver is worth their salt, they won't lose much time upshifting if they do it right.


----------



## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

DTMTrini said:


> When a car is on a dyno, how come they don't go full throttle for each gear?


No need. The operators goal is just to get closest to that 1:1. No need to rush it when they charge $200/hr to tune.


----------



## IC AI (Aug 29, 2008)

JorgenP said:


> When manual cars are being tested the 0-60mph test, then do they start from 1st gear or upper, to get a better time that will be lost by shifting?


No, but there was something on here a few months ago about the fact that the 0-60 times in C&D are actually 3-60... but I forget why.


----------



## chetacer (Dec 23, 2002)

I got a question, probably repost from somewhere deep in this thread.

Why do AT cars do a little roll (usually forward) when put into Park? It's one of the annoying things about AT, especially when you park a little close to something.

Are there any out there that are specifically designed not to do this?


----------



## SVTDanny (Aug 8, 2005)

It rolls until the parking paw catches, and all the slack in the driveline is taken up.


----------



## CodeMan (May 12, 2006)

IC AI said:


> No, but there was something on here a few months ago about the fact that the 0-60 times in C&D are actually 3-60... but I forget why.


Rollout. http://www.nogaroblue.com/27978/30426.html


----------



## gtivr4 (Sep 22, 2000)

JorgenP said:


> When manual cars are being tested the 0-60mph test, then do they start from 1st gear or upper, to get a better time that will be lost by shifting?


1st gear. The time lost shifting is less than the time gained by accelerating harder in 1st than 2nd.


----------



## WhitePoloCT (Jul 28, 2005)

Stroker McCarlo said:


> I noticed this today on Porsche USA's website :
> 
> *Porsche sales in North America*
> 1986....30,471
> ...


There was a recession in the early '90s. Can't believe no-one knew that... It's the reason a lot of the old school supercars never sold in large numbers.


----------



## Slick Megalopolis (Aug 29, 2009)

chetacer said:


> I got a question, probably repost from somewhere deep in this thread.
> 
> Why do AT cars do a little roll (usually forward) when put into Park? It's one of the annoying things about AT, especially when you park a little close to something.
> 
> Are there any out there that are specifically designed not to do this?


You can avoid this by engaging the parking brake before you take your foot off the brake. Come to complete stop, keep foot on brake, put in park and engage parking brake, foot off brake. The p-brake holds it in place so it never has a chance to roll up to the parking pawl. That's just the order I do it in, you could probably also engage the p-brake before putting it in Park and get the same result.

This also makes it a lot easier to get it out of park and into drive if you're parked on a hill. I know I've driven a couple cars where if you let the car roll up against the parking pawl while you're on a hill, you really have to shove it to get it into drive the next time you're ready to go.


----------



## Stroker McCarlo (Feb 10, 2011)

WhitePoloCT said:


> There was a recession in the early '90s. Can't believe no-one knew that... It's the reason a lot of the old school supercars never sold in large numbers.


I'm sorry but your argument doesn't seem to be valid. Porsche sales were already tanking by 1991. 

*U.S. GDP Growth by Year*
1986....3.5%
1987....3.2%
1988....4.1%
1989....3.6%
1990....1.9%
1991....-.2%
1992....3.4%
http://www.indexmundi.com/united_states/gdp_real_growth_rate.html


----------



## CodeMan (May 12, 2006)

There was a big stock market crash in '87.


----------



## WhitePoloCT (Jul 28, 2005)

Stroker McCarlo said:


> I'm sorry but your argument doesn't seem to be valid. Porsche sales were already tanking by 1991.
> 
> *U.S. GDP Growth by Year*
> 1986....3.5%
> ...


1991 isn't the early '90s?


----------



## Stroker McCarlo (Feb 10, 2011)

WhitePoloCT said:


> 1991 isn't the early '90s?


Porsche North America sales declined from 30,471 in 1986 to 9,140 in 1990.


----------



## WhitePoloCT (Jul 28, 2005)

Stroker McCarlo said:


> Porsche North America sales declined from 30,471 in 1986 to 9,140 in 1990.


Listen, a lot happened in those years. There was a stock market crash, a recession, and the first gulf war. You might expect some fantastic auto related reason, but there isn't one. It was a combination of many things that lead to lots of people losing lots of money. 

Okay?


----------



## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

WhitePoloCT said:


> Listen, a lot happened in those years. There was a stock market crash, a recession, and the first gulf war. You might expect some fantastic auto related reason, but there isn't one. It was a combination of many things that lead to lots of people losing lots of money.
> 
> Okay?


mostly it had to do with porsche getting rpiced out of the market by japanese cars because the dollar and D-mark exchange rate.


----------



## WhitePoloCT (Jul 28, 2005)

cockerpunk said:


> mostly it had to do with porsche getting rpiced out of the market by japanese cars because the dollar and D-mark exchange rate.


And what could have possibly caused that?


----------



## Stroker McCarlo (Feb 10, 2011)

After further investigation it seems that the discontinuation of the 944 and the 924, both of which sold quite well in the U.S., is primarily to blame for the decline of sales.


----------



## Trike Kid (Sep 28, 2008)

Slick Megalopolis said:


> You can avoid this by engaging the parking brake before you take your foot off the brake. Come to complete stop, keep foot on brake, put in park and engage parking brake, foot off brake. The p-brake holds it in place so it never has a chance to roll up to the parking pawl. That's just the order I do it in, you could probably also engage the p-brake before putting it in Park and get the same result.
> 
> This also makes it a lot easier to get it out of park and into drive if you're parked on a hill. I know I've driven a couple cars where if you let the car roll up against the parking pawl while you're on a hill, you really have to shove it to get it into drive the next time you're ready to go.


This is the correct way to park an automatic car. You should always put the parking brake on before take your foot off the brake pedal or put the vehicle in park. Otherwise you're putting a lot of pressure on a very small part, that can break, sending your car careening into whatever is down hill from it.


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## ph03n1x (Feb 22, 2011)

I washed my car today but after I ran my fingers through the paint, I found some rough spots and figured I needed to clay. So I wanted to go out and buy clay and wax but I don't have any so I'm picking some up tomorrow. If I wanna clay and wax, do I have to wash my car again?


----------



## Turbo-D (Jan 28, 2003)

Yes, i would wash or your clay is going to pick up so much more stuff it will start scratch your paint.


----------



## ttvick (Aug 15, 2007)

What is the black box in this picture...










... and why do I often see it mounted on the front bumper of Japanese cars?


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 21, 2006)

oil cooler


----------



## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

ttvick said:


> What is the black box in this picture...
> 
> ... and why do I often see it mounted on the front bumper of Japanese cars?


Auxiliary oil cooler. It's just a fad to mount it outside. Looks haggard to me, though.


----------



## JacksSenseOfRejection (Dec 5, 2006)

MustacheGT said:


> Auxiliary oil cooler. It's just a fad to mount it outside. Looks haggard to me, though.


Meh, I could take it or leave it


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## freedomweasel (Apr 15, 2010)

Isn't it a "reference" to some old Japanese racing series that had oil coolers mounted like that?

They can look kinda cool when there isn't an extra few yards of hose used for the connection.


----------



## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

freedomweasel said:


> Isn't it a "reference" to some old Japanese racing series that had oil coolers mounted like that?
> 
> They can look kinda cool when there isn't an extra few yards of hose used for the connection.


Maybe the first one on a street car but these days it's just copying another car they saw on the internet.


----------



## SVTDanny (Aug 8, 2005)

Looks like an excellent way to have an "oops" and lose all of your oil. Especially the one that doesn't even have steel braided line.


----------



## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

freedomweasel said:


> Isn't it a "reference" to some old Japanese racing series that had oil coolers mounted like that?
> 
> They can look kinda cool when there isn't an extra few yards of hose used for the connection.





MustacheGT said:


> Maybe the first one on a street car but these days it's just copying another car they saw on the internet.


Freedomweasel is right. It is inspired by the Hakosuka Skyline racecars from the early 70's or so. But like everything Japan does they had to take it to the next level and go completely over the top.


----------



## H Mike (Mar 20, 2007)

Why are the brakes always squealing on rally cars? just from the dirt? or what they're made out of?


----------



## XClayX (Apr 30, 2005)

Subaru AWD and tire sizes. New/old, mix match. It really destroys the transmission like to book says??


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

XClayX said:


> Subaru AWD and tire sizes. New/old, mix match. It really destroys the transmission like to book says??


This was covered on the previous page: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?p=71287771#post71287771


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Ok, got one.
Why do some drivers blip the throttle after starting, or before shutting off their car/bike? Is it just to sound cool, or is there a mechanical benefit?


----------



## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

As far as I know on an FI engine it's pointless.

On a carbureted engine with a big cam that idles rich, especially if running methanol, revving it up a few thousand RPM and then shutting it off makes it less likely to flood on startup.


Soooo, people like to copy what they see race cars do. :screwy:


----------



## Angry_Birds (May 14, 2011)

what exactly is damaged (or at least at risk of being damaged) when the timing belt snaps on an interference motor? Just the valves?


----------



## MrRline (Apr 6, 2010)

So the other weekend I needed to get two new tires put on to replace the front two that were worn out. I had them rotate the rears to the front and the new tires to the rear. The guy asked me if I wanted to have the wheels that were being xfered from the rear to the front balanced. He tried to tell me that every 15k miles you should have your tires rebalanced. Of course this was a 20 dollar up charge on a wheel that had already been balanced. Is there any truth to this and should I do this at all?


----------



## WhitePoloCT (Jul 28, 2005)

Angry_Birds said:


> what exactly is damaged (or at least at risk of being damaged) when the timing belt snaps on an interference motor? Just the valves?


Well, something is damaging the valves, right? That would be the piston... Then depending on the force of it all and whether it's a bent or broken valve, the combustion chamber could get properly effed up.


----------



## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

Angry_Birds said:


> what exactly is damaged (or at least at risk of being damaged) when the timing belt snaps on an interference motor? Just the valves?


Most times it is just valves getting bent. In some cases a piston can crack or connecting rods can bend. More common on some engines than others. A nick in the top of the piston never hurt anyone .

But as whitepolo said, if you break a valve off and it goes bouncing around in the combustion chamber...ohhhh boy.


----------



## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

dj_cronic_metal said:


> He tried to tell me that every 15k miles you should have your tires rebalanced. Of course this was a 20 dollar up charge on a wheel that had already been balanced. Is there any truth to this and should I do this at all?




There's some truth to it, but if your car drives straight and vibration-free with those tires on the front I wouldn't bother.

Yes, tires _can_ shift out of balance over tens of thousands of miles of wear. Happened to my wife's car. I bought inner and outer tie rods, figured it was time so why not. Gave it to my mechanic because I was lazy and it was cold out. Came back with 'eh the steering parts look fine, the tires were out of balance'. $20 later, no more wobble. Returned the parts. I don't use him much, usually just for my wife's car in winter, but my mechanic is awesome like that.


----------



## NjDriver (Oct 5, 2009)

MrMook said:


> Ok, got one.
> Why do some drivers blip the throttle after starting, or before shutting off their car/bike? Is it just to sound cool, or is there a mechanical benefit?


I have to blip the throttle to start my car... usually backfires too and sounds cool :sunglasses

Sent From Phone Using My Mind


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## Diamond Dave (Mar 24, 2001)

MrMook said:


> Ok, got one.
> Why do some drivers blip the throttle after starting, or before shutting off their car/bike? Is it just to sound cool, or is there a mechanical benefit?


People that like their motor to spin down from 4500RPM with no oil use this technique.


----------



## Diamond Dave (Mar 24, 2001)

Angry_Birds said:


> what exactly is damaged (or at least at risk of being damaged) when the timing belt snaps on an interference motor? Just the valves?


Non-interference engines (Miata for instance) are not at risk for damage.

Interference engines (VW 16V and 1.8t for instance) are at risk for bending the valves.


----------



## Diamond Dave (Mar 24, 2001)

dj_cronic_metal said:


> So the other weekend I needed to get two new tires put on to replace the front two that were worn out...The guy asked me if I wanted to have the wheels that were being xfered from the rear to the front balanced.... Is there any truth to this and should I do this at all?


Tires don't stay in balance until they run down to the cords. Weights fall off and tires wear unevenly. That said, tires in the rear that are out of balance have less of an effect on NVH than tires on the front.


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## Angry_Birds (May 14, 2011)

dj_cronic_metal said:


> So the other weekend I needed to get two new tires put on to replace the front two that were worn out. I had them rotate the rears to the front and the new tires to the rear. The guy asked me if I wanted to have the wheels that were being xfered from the rear to the front balanced. He tried to tell me that every 15k miles you should have your tires rebalanced. Of course this was a 20 dollar up charge on a wheel that had already been balanced. Is there any truth to this and should I do this at all?





WhitePoloCT said:


> Well, something is damaging the valves, right? That would be the piston... Then depending on the force of it all and whether it's a bent or broken valve, the combustion chamber could get properly effed up.


Thanks for the responses guys :beer:

So essentially, if the timing belt snaps, the valves just don't open and get damaged by the pressure that isn't relieved? Or does the piston actually come into contact with the valves?


----------



## CodeMan (May 12, 2006)

Angry_Birds said:


> Or does the piston actually come into contact with the valves?


This. The cams stop turning, leaving the valves in various states of openness, while the rest of the drivetrain continues to turn the crank, slamming the pistons into the open valves.


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

*How Differentials Work*

I was reading up on LSD's, and how differentials work, and I found this pretty rad "vid" that Chevy "dropped" 80 years ago. Most understandable explanation I've seen yet, so I thought I'd share with this crowd:

Start at 1:50 to skip the war-era fanfare:


----------



## Gspot20 (Aug 21, 2010)

Why don't we see N/A cars with intercoolers? Wouldn't the cooler intake air make it more efficient?


----------



## Royale00 (Aug 13, 2009)

Gspot20 said:


> Why don't we see N/A cars with intercoolers? Wouldn't the cooler intake air make it more efficient?


I think it would restrict air flow too much. With a forced induction you have a turbo/supercharger that moves all the outside air into the engine.


----------



## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

Gspot20 said:


> Why don't we see N/A cars with intercoolers? Wouldn't the cooler intake air make it more efficient?


When air passes through a turbo, it is heated because the turbo is HOT! We then use an intercooler to cool this air that is already in the system using ambient air temperature.

On a NA car, the air in the system has not been heated by a turbo, therefore using ambient air (which is the same temperature) would do nothing to cool it further.


----------



## Omnilith (Jan 15, 2010)

Gspot20 said:


> Why don't we see N/A cars with intercoolers? Wouldn't the cooler intake air make it more efficient?


Basically, it would only serve as a restriction. The coldest air available is ambient temperature, so the coldest solution (without some form of refrigerant) is to route the intake to the freshest air source.

An intercooler is helpful/necessary because the act of compressing the gasses (air) causes a significant increase in temperature. (Gas law... if pressure increases and volume stays constant, temperature must increase) So while the supercharger or turbocharger makes the air more dense, it also makes it much hotter... sometimes 2-3 times ambient. An intercooler serves to bring the temperature of the compressed air down closer to ambient.


----------



## CodeMan (May 12, 2006)

Gspot20 said:


> Why don't we see N/A cars with intercoolers? Wouldn't the cooler intake air make it more efficient?


Also, the intake air on a NA car is already ambient temperature. A turbo/SC will heat up the air as it's compressed, necessitating an intercooler.


----------



## Beanboy (Aug 27, 2004)

Gspot20 said:


> Why don't we see N/A cars with intercoolers? Wouldn't the cooler intake air make it more efficient?


Ack! Ninja edit and second post on subject fail. Hmmm, to think of a question...


----------



## CodeMan (May 12, 2006)

Well, I think we drove that point home pretty well.


----------



## Gspot20 (Aug 21, 2010)

ya lol, thanks. I didn't stop and think that maybe a CAI was already ambient temp...


----------



## Beanboy (Aug 27, 2004)

On transversely mounted FWD inline 4 applications, there seems to be a split between intake/exhaust manifold locations from auto manufacturers. Hondas, for instance, usually have the exhaust manifold facing the front of the car. 

What are some advantages/disadvantages of the two styles?


----------



## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

Beanboy said:


> What are some advantages/disadvantages of the two styles?


Rear-facing: shorter plumbing that doesn't have to go under/around the engine, and doesn't get oil dripped on it.

Forward facing: uh... um, wow. Beats me. I can't think of a single logical reason for having the exhaust at the front. Cooling maybe?


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

O_o said:


> Rear-facing: shorter plumbing that doesn't have to go under/around the engine, and doesn't get oil dripped on it.
> 
> Forward facing: uh... um, wow. Beats me. I can't think of a single logical reason for having the exhaust at the front. Cooling maybe?


My first guess is packaging....it might just make more sense in terms of space and fitment to mount one way or another depending on the car.

With that in mind, a forward-facing exhaust might help header design/flow, since you could mount an engine closer to the firewall for better weight distribution, but still have enough room in the front to design a nice, unrestricted header/downpipe.


----------



## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

When people turbo N/A engines, the dyno and tune almost always looks like this:










Red = torque
Black = HP

Is it possible to get a tuning shop to tune the turbo to look more like this:










Red = torque
Black = HP

The 2nd graph is what factory turbo'd cars do.

Or is the torque all dependent on the size of the turbo? (Big turbo would be first graph, small turbo would be second)


----------



## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

MrMook said:


> My first guess is packaging....it might just make more sense in terms of space and fitment to mount one way or another depending on the car.
> 
> With that in mind, a forward-facing exhaust might help header design/flow, since *you could mount an engine closer to the firewall for better weight distribution*, but still have enough room in the front to design a nice, unrestricted header/downpipe.


Hadn't thought of that. That's probably bang-on.


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Beanboy said:


> On transversely mounted FWD inline 4 applications, there seems to be a split between intake/exhaust manifold locations from auto manufacturers. Hondas, for instance, usually have the exhaust manifold facing the front of the car.
> 
> What are some advantages/disadvantages of the two styles?


i've often wondered the same thing.

i thought it might have something to do with the direction in which the crank spins, but i've never been certain.


----------



## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

Every gallon of gas has the same amount of energy. How come some cars use it so much more efficiently than others? How can the 2010 2.5L 175 HP altima get 23/32 city/hwy, while the 2010 2.5L 170 HP legacy get 19/27 city highway? Does the awd system really suck 5 mpg hwy? Where is the energy wasted?


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

sjt1985 said:


> Every gallon of gas has the same amount of energy. How come some cars use it so much more efficiently than others? How can the 2010 2.5L 175 HP altima get 23/32 city/hwy, while the 2010 2.5L 170 HP legacy get 19/27 city highway? Does the awd system really suck 5 mpg hwy? Where is the energy wasted?


Soooooo many factors. Sure, the displacement is the same, but you have to account for air/fuel mixtures set by the CPU, timing elements such as cams and gears, varying degrees of energy loss due to mechanical friction from engine accessories like power steering and A/C, weight of oil, weight of the mechanical elements themselves........all that without even getting into the difference in drivetrain layout and gearing in their transmissions.


----------



## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Beanboy said:


> On transversely mounted FWD inline 4 applications, there seems to be a split between intake/exhaust manifold locations from auto manufacturers. Hondas, for instance, usually have the exhaust manifold facing the front of the car.
> 
> What are some advantages/disadvantages of the two styles?


Some manufacturers even switch it around on the same vehicle depending on engine family. Here is a Corolla. 

Corolla 2.4:









Corolla 1.8:









Civic LX 1.8:









Civic Si 2.0:









I've always thought the Versa 1.6 is odd how it has the airbox and throttle and everything in the back of the engine bay above the exhaust manifold, then long plastic runners that curve across the top of the engine to the front. You have to remove the intake manifold to change the spark plugs!


----------



## WhitePoloCT (Jul 28, 2005)

MrMook said:


> My first guess is packaging....it might just make more sense in terms of space and fitment to mount one way or another depending on the car.
> 
> With that in mind, a forward-facing exhaust might help header design/flow, since you could mount an engine closer to the firewall for better weight distribution, but still have enough room in the front to design a nice, unrestricted header/downpipe.


Way back in the mid 90s, Touring Car makers would do the opposite of what you said, in order to get better weight distribution and a lower center of gravity. 

http://www.supertouring.co.uk/technology/engine_bay.html
http://www.supertouring.co.uk/technology/engine_reverse_head.html


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

adrew said:


> I've always thought the Versa 1.6 is odd how it has the airbox and throttle and everything in the back of the engine bay above the exhaust manifold, then long plastic runners that curve across the top of the engine to the front. You have to remove the intake manifold to change the spark plugs!


Flow lamination.

The long runners are good for getting the flow and pressure equal at each intake valve. This improves torque a bit and improves balance a lot.


----------



## SVTDanny (Aug 8, 2005)

Diamond Dave said:


> People that like their motor to spin down from 4500RPM with no oil use this technique.


Oil pumps are mechanically driven. Engine turning = oil pump turning.


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

adrew said:


> You have to remove the intake manifold to change the spark plugs!


Seems common enough. VW 2-liters have a similar layout, and while you can replace the spark plugs while the intake is on, I usually take it off. 












WhitePoloCT said:


> Way back in the mid 90s, Touring Car makers would do the opposite of what you said, in order to get better weight distribution and a lower center of gravity.


That's pretty much exactly what I said. Sure, they kept the engine in the same direction, but then again, it's a race car with a giant engine bay, and no concern for passenger comfort. I'm saying that on a production car, it could be beneficial, in some circumstances, to arrange the engine so the exhaust faces the front of the car, while the intake faces the firewall. 

Then again, it's just a guess. I'm not an engineer.


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

C4 A6 said:


>


This plot is making my head-assplode. 
The HP in this plot should rise rapidly until the torque peaks, and then hold generally steady for the entire rev range, after which it likely falls flat on it's face.

It produces a car that's significantly easier to drive on the street (everyday) than a comparable NA motor with the same power, because the power is available almost immediately.

I'd guess that anyone who wanted to add a turbo to a NA car (and then post the dyno on t3h interwebs), it more interested in making massive power than making a relaxed commute to the office. So a big turbo (that doesn't add anything to the low end, but goes nuts on the high end), is just the ticket.


----------



## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

MrMook said:


> Seems common enough. VW 2-liters have a similar layout, and while you can replace the spark plugs while the intake is on, I usually take it off.


I forgot about the old 2.slow. I had this image of the VW 2.0 16v embedded in my brain for some reason -- it uses the same style but has a better design where you can access the plugs without pulling the manifold. 










Personally, I have always had cars where the plugs are either out in the open by the exhaust manifold or right on top under a little cover (for cars with coil-on ignition). I see the benefits of the long-runner design but it seems like Nissan could have been implemented better. But I guess with current 100k+ spark plug change intervals serviceability isn't as important as it once was.


----------



## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

C4 A6 said:


> Is it possible to get a tuning shop to tune the turbo to look more like this:


Most of the new-tech turbo cars are programmed to deliver flat torque curves. Here is the Regal turbo:


----------



## WhitePoloCT (Jul 28, 2005)

MrMook said:


> That's pretty much exactly what I said. Sure, they kept the engine in the same direction, but then again, it's a race car with a giant engine bay, and no concern for passenger comfort. I'm saying that on a production car, it could be beneficial, in some circumstances, to arrange the engine so the exhaust faces the front of the car, while the intake faces the firewall.
> 
> Then again, it's just a guess. I'm not an engineer.


No, what I'm saying is: those race car designers purposely turned the heads around, so that the exhaust faces backwards, and the intake forwards... the opposite of what you were saying. Read the links...


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

WhitePoloCT said:


> No, what I'm saying is: those race car designers purposely turned the heads around, so that the exhaust faces backwards, and the intake forwards... the opposite of what you were saying. Read the links...


Re-read, both this time. The Volvo and Nissan engines appear to just be moved lower and rearward in the bay using a modified subframe. I hadn't clicked the Vauxhall link, and that is indeed pretty clever the way they flipped the head around. :thumbup:


----------



## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

adrew said:


> Most of the new-tech turbo cars are programmed to deliver flat torque curves. Here is the Regal turbo:


But that's from factory. Would it be possible for a person to get a tune that looked like that when they bolt on a turbo to an originally N/A motor?

Another question: why NOT use the engine to brake the car?


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

C4 A6 said:


> But that's from factory. Would it be possible for a person to get a tune that looked like that when they bolt on a turbo to an originally N/A motor?




Yes, you could.

small turbo with quick spool up, and a good amount of low-load ignition advance should get you something that looks like that.


----------



## Angry_Birds (May 14, 2011)

I was just curious, why has FWD replaced RWD as the drivetrain layout of choice for most family sedans?


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

Angry_Birds said:


> I was just curious, why has FWD replaced RWD as the drivetrain layout of choice for most family sedans?


 Cost cutting and to allow for more interior/trunk space.


----------



## GahannaKid (May 24, 2004)

MustacheGT said:


> Cost cutting and to allow for more interior/trunk space.


 That and it's generally safer for the average driver.


----------



## Mr. Dew (Mar 26, 2008)

The reason some people are against using an engine to brake the car is because when when you downshift the car the engine is no longer driving the wheels the wheels are driving the engine. Because of this when it is downshifted, the crank shaft suddenly rips down on the connecting rods and over time this can cause them to be out of round. Then when you take apart the engine to rebuild it at some point they may have to be sent off to a machine shop to be rebored.


----------



## izzo (Mar 19, 2004)

Why are there chains hanging underneath the school buses?


----------



## Techun (Dec 27, 2006)

To ground them electrically

I understand why ambulances do it, but not school busses?


----------



## izzo (Mar 19, 2004)

But they don't touch the ground. from what I've seen?

I've also seen them on trucks too...


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## 1.8Tquattro (Aug 13, 2006)

They're automatic tire chains


----------



## JeffIsLax (Mar 26, 2005)

Mr. Dew said:


> The reason some people are against using an engine to brake the car is because when when you downshift the car the engine is no longer driving the wheels the wheels are driving the engine. Because of this when it is downshifted, the crank shaft suddenly rips down on the connecting rods and over time this can cause them to be out of round. Then when you take apart the engine to rebuild it at some point they may have to be sent off to a machine shop to be rebored.


I've never heard that. If you downshift correctly, ie rev match and put it in gear, there should not be any sudden ripping on the conrods. I always heard that people don't like to use engine braking because it is easier to replace brake pads than a clutch and/or transmission.


----------



## 557688 (Aug 21, 2010)

1.8Tquattro said:


> They're automatic tire chains


Came to post, left defeated.


----------



## izzo (Mar 19, 2004)

Now I know, thanks!


----------



## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

Let's say I'm building a 1200hp car and put massive fuel lines, a massive fuel pump, fuel cell, etc. on. I assume it would need to be return style for me to run this on, say, a stock (~260hp) engine? What else would it take to be able to install the big fuel setup but not use it to capacity?


----------



## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

up for answer


----------



## :Jeremy: (Feb 22, 2002)

MustacheGT said:


> Let's say I'm building a 1200hp car and put massive fuel lines, a massive fuel pump, fuel cell, etc. on. I assume it would need to be return style for me to run this on, say, a stock (~260hp) engine? What else would it take to be able to install the big fuel setup but not use it to capacity?


standalone w/ a great tune, 1000-1500cc injectors, sx fuel pressure regulator


----------



## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

v.vdubb said:


> standalone w/ a great tune, 1000-1500cc injectors, sx fuel pressure regulator


So... it would be regulated down to basically stock flow using JUST the FPR? 

The whole point of this would be to build the car fully ready for the new engine and transmission but using a stock engine/tranny for the time being until funds are collected. Hell the fuel system alone is around $1300.


----------



## elmer fud (Aug 5, 2003)

iLoveMyIS said:


> Something I was always tempted to try on my last car.
> 
> In an automatic, is it possible to shift from Drive to Reverse while moving at moderate-to-high speeds (i.e. 30mph+).



done this twice in my rx7 before I swapped it to stick. its not a good thing to do, its much like pulling a really good ebrake, I don't like automatics and I have only owned two, a 1984 volvo, and the rx7, 

in the rx7 I would always shift manuely as I like to drive the crap out of it..... well two times I grabbed the shifter and went to put the clutch in (witch my auto doesn't have) jabbing the brakes with the shifter in my hand........ hand moves shifter to R, engine stalls, back wheels lock up solid, try not to die slideing off the road. not fun....


----------



## Techun (Dec 27, 2006)

1.8Tquattro said:


> They're automatic tire chains


woah


----------



## KahviVW (Feb 26, 2009)

Q: Is there a reason other than appearance for having different sized front and rear tires on a road going car (e.g. Prowler)?


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

KahviVW said:


> Q: Is there a reason other than appearance for having different sized front and rear tires on a road going car (e.g. Prowler)?


My Guess: Rear tires are wider for better power transfer (more traction, less wheelspin). Fronts remain a more "normal" width for better handling/tracking. In my experience, wider front tires tend to follow every nook and cranny in the road surface.

I could be wrong.


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

nope.

it used to be more grip for the drive wheels.

but on a car like that, it's just looks.


----------



## JorgenP (Apr 8, 2010)

What does the button do next to the ESP button? I've seen it on a few cars, but never understood what's the use.


----------



## mx5er (Apr 28, 2001)

I'm gonna go with heated windshield. A lot of European spec and I believe Canadian spec cars have 'em.

Looks useful but I'm guessing it'll block toll tags, radar detectors and portable GPS devices.


----------



## JorgenP (Apr 8, 2010)

Isn't heated windshield icon a bit different?


----------



## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

Windshield defroster is left button - the fan that all cars have
Rear defroster is right button - the hot wires that most cars have


The "heated windshield" zigzag symbol looks like it's to indicate a heating system that is not a fan.


----------



## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

Now here's my question: Will the average car run upside down?


----------



## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

cityjohn said:


> Now here's my question: Will the average car run upside down?


I would *assume* yes, as long as the fuel pump can pick up the fuel. Fuel injected engines, only.


----------



## Shtbox (Nov 27, 2010)

MightyDSM said:


> I would *assume* yes, as long as the fuel pump can pick up the fuel. Fuel injected engines, only.


the oil pump wont have any oil to pick up. itll blow after a very short period of time.

now my turn for a retarded question.

lets say i want to turbo my obd2 vr6 and ive decided to go with C2's 42# chip. what the hell does 42 indicate? im well aware its fuel, however how do i know im going beyond the chips tune and getting into a danger zone of popping the motor? additionally, if i am far from reaching its limits, will it run pig rich? ive never understood this.


----------



## yeayeayea (May 29, 2005)

Shtbox said:


> the oil pump wont have any oil to pick up. itll blow after a very short period of time.
> 
> now my turn for a retarded question.
> 
> lets say i want to turbo my obd2 vr6 and ive decided to go with C2's 42# chip. what the hell does 42 indicate? im well aware its fuel, however how do i know im going beyond the chips tune and getting into a danger zone of popping the motor? additionally, if i am far from reaching its limits, will it run pig rich? ive never understood this.


well i would say best bet is to get an Air fuel gauge and simply monitor it once its all together. however 42# software is designed for 42# fuel injectors, which is around 440c if im not mistaken. That amount of fuel flow is only good for a certain amount of air flow. Simly determine if your turbo will flow more or less air at your desired boost pressure, and you will know if your software can handle it.


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Shtbox said:


> the oil pump wont have any oil to pick up. itll blow after a very short period of time.


What if the car were running a dry-sump oil system? That takes it out of the "average car" category, but it might work.


----------



## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

JeffIsLax said:


> I've never heard that. If you downshift correctly, ie rev match and put it in gear, there should not be any sudden ripping on the conrods. I always heard that people don't like to use engine braking because it is easier to replace brake pads than a clutch and/or transmission.


That's what I've heard. But what if I'm going down a long hill, put it in 2nd, and just sit? (The revs go to about 4500 on an engine that has an 8500 redline with a 4.4 f/d) Is that *bad* for the transmission?

EDIT another question: What could happen if my engine isn't grounded properly?


----------



## VarianceVQ (Jun 26, 2005)

Just how screwed are you if you get caught in a heavy downpour or some other inclement weather situation on your motorcycle? 

Visibility greatly impaired? Particularly bad for the bike?


----------



## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

This thread went from "Ask those intelligent car questions you always afraid to ask" To "Post here if you just screwed up your car and want to know how bad the damage is" 
Not complaning, just an observation 

My contribution: If i completely sealed out my engine bay. all the way from the intake to the fuel system, would it run for at least a half hour under water?


----------



## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

VarianceVQ said:


> Just how screwed are you if you get caught in a heavy downpour or some other inclement weather situation on your motorcycle?
> 
> Visibility greatly impaired? Particularly bad for the bike?


 It HURTS! Rain drops at 60mph feel like little bullets. Even through heavy jeans. Might be OK with leathers. Bare skin? OUCHIE! But below that speed, visibility sucks. Always remember to rainex your visor. Not bad at all for the bike, unless its a British bike...there there's a damn good chance all your electrics will fry. There's a reason Sir Lucas of Lucas Electronics is known as the Lord of the Darkness and there's a British saying "Gentlemen don't ride at night"...damn good chance your headlights won't work on Brit bike anyway.


----------



## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

RacerrRex said:


> This thread went from "Ask those intelligent car questions you always afraid to ask" To "Post here if you just screwed up your car and want to know how bad the damage is"
> Not complaning, just an observation
> 
> My contribution: If i completely sealed out my engine bay. all the way from the intake to the fuel system, would it run for at least a half hour under water?


 Depends if it has an air intake source and if the electronics stay dry, so I'm going to go with no


----------



## MCTB (Dec 30, 2005)

RacerrRex said:


> My contribution: If i completely sealed out my engine bay. all the way from the intake to the fuel system, would it run for at least a half hour under water?


 Yes. Modern electronics are very sealed when it comes to weather. Run a snorkel system and an elevated exhaust outlet and youll be fine. Keep the ECU dry too. Run a mechanical, or even simple electronically controlled diesel, and youll be that much better. Ive done some good depth water crossings and the raised intake helps big time and a slackening of the fan belt helps keep the radiator from being eaten alive.


----------



## yeayeayea (May 29, 2005)

VarianceVQ said:


> Just how screwed are you if you get caught in a heavy downpour or some other inclement weather situation on your motorcycle?
> 
> Visibility greatly impaired? Particularly bad for the bike?


 huh funny you would ask that..... 

it hurts. especially the pavement part.


----------



## yeayeayea (May 29, 2005)

RacerrRex said:


> This thread went from "Ask those intelligent car questions you always afraid to ask" To "Post here if you just screwed up your car and want to know how bad the damage is"
> Not complaning, just an observation
> 
> My contribution: If i completely sealed out my engine bay. all the way from the intake to the fuel system, would it run for at least a half hour under water?


----------



## Trusty_Balloon (Apr 14, 2009)

Typically when people get their windows tinted, do they get the windshield tinted as well? I feel like I see a fair amount of both, but I thought i heard somewhere that only ricers get their windshields tinted due to reducing visibility at night and whatnot. What say you TCL gurus?


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## yeayeayea (May 29, 2005)

Trusty_Balloon said:


> Typically when people get their windows tinted, do they get the windshield tinted as well? I feel like I see a fair amount of both, but I thought i heard somewhere that only ricers get their windshields tinted due to reducing visibility at night and whatnot. What say you TCL gurus?


 I would say most cars dont have windshield tint, as i dont think its legal unless you have a "prescription" saying that too much sunlight messes up your eyes.


----------



## ChiTownA34DR (Dec 6, 2002)

Q; What is the advantage/disadvantage of letting the wastegate dump tube go right out to the atmosphere? Is it just a noise maker? Had this setup on my 2.0 Jetta and never asked why it came like that.


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## yeayeayea (May 29, 2005)

ChiTownA34DR said:


> Q; What is the advantage/disadvantage of letting the wastegate dump tube go right out to the atmosphere? Is it just a noise maker? Had this setup on my 2.0 Jetta and never asked why it came like that.


 its easier to fabricate than rerouting it back into the downpipe, it allows you to remove the down pipe or the dump tube one at a time, instead of all at once, and its louder.


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

TOTALLY badass!


----------



## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

Nub question (asking because I probably haven't experienced it) but *what exactly is brake hop*?


----------



## Ed52 (May 21, 2001)

*Why/how do cars catch on fire??*

I've just gone over the electrical wiring system on my 95 Golf GTI. I am the fifth owner. There were signs of previous stereo installs and lighting changes. The fuse box area was a mess with a lot of tangled wiring harnesses that prevented proper access to the swing down fuse/relay panel. I removed about 40 feet of unused wiring from the car. All of the 'electrical connections' were 'twist and tape'. I consider these modifications to be a fire hazzard. 

About once a day you hear about a roadside car fire...other than iffi stereo installs what else cause fires in automobiles?


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## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

Oil, fuel, or other combustibles dripping on the catalytic converter or other hot components.


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## motronicmalfunction (Aug 26, 2002)

i've asked this question before in this thread, and was met with a less than stellar response. 

what exactly has changed once a car pulls to one side & requires a toe in/toe out alignment? 

-the rack & pinion don't skip teeth 
-the tie rods (as long as they don't bend) are still the same length and keep the front wheels in relative parallel 
-the tie rod ends don't change shape (which was previously offered as an explanation "they are malleable") 

im not talking about worn out inner or outer tie rod ends, or ball joints, or steering rack. im talking about taking a brand new car off the lot, hitting a huge pothole, or taking the same right hand turn like a maniac repeatedly... then the car pulls to one side. 

what exactly was thrown out of whack?


----------



## marcelo09 (May 8, 2008)

Q; How long can a car sit until it no longer runs? assuming that its brand new and has already been broken in properly? I guess there could be different results depending if you remove the remaining gas and etc... but would be nice to know the answer to both or all scenarios! 


thanks :thumbup::beer:


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## ktk (Jun 29, 2009)

marcelo09 said:


> Q; How long can a car sit until it no longer runs? assuming that its brand new and has already been broken in properly? I guess there could be different results depending if you remove the remaining gas and etc... but would be nice to know the answer to both or all scenarios!
> 
> 
> thanks :thumbup::beer:


 
There is no one correct answer to your question. Too much will depend on where and what conditions the car is sitting in. Left alone indoors in a decent climate a car will last almost indefinitely, given a new battery, tires, and fluids. Left outdoors, in humid or tropical, or seafront areas and corrosion will be a much bigger issue over the long term. Corrosion is your biggest concern when leaving a car for a long term, the question of how long a sitting car will last is almost assuredly linked to how much rust/corrosion it will see in the environment its sitting in. 

Its not unheard of to find cars that have been sitting for 50+ years that are still in runnable shape, a lot of the time fluids and battery is all it takes.


----------



## TetsuoShima (Nov 30, 2008)

Why is the 3000GT a joke in TCL? It's a beast of a car:


----------



## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

TetsuoShima said:


> Why is the 3000GT a joke in TCL? It's a beast of a car:


 While it is a beast of a car, especially the VR4, there was on member who insisted it was on par with a supercar. He was ridiculed quite a bit. It is no more so than a TT Supra, FD RX7, etc. Nice cars, fast cars, but not exactly a Mclaren F1 or similar.


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

motronicmalfunction said:


> im not talking about worn out inner or outer tie rod ends, or ball joints, or steering rack. im talking about taking a brand new car off the lot, hitting a huge pothole, or taking the same right hand turn like a maniac repeatedly... then the car pulls to one side.
> 
> what exactly was thrown out of whack?


 Hitting pothole? Maybe bent something, no? 
If it's a brand new car the suspension may be settling. I don't know if that's a myth or not, but I've "heard" when you install new struts/springs, mounts, etc, it can take a few miles to "settle", which may or may not affect the alignment (would depend on suspension design). *shrug* 

If the car has some miles on it, it could be worn bushings, particularly control arms if you're getting pull to either side. 

These are all just guesses. :wave:


----------



## compy222 (Apr 8, 2005)

Roadkilled78 said:


> While it is a beast of a car, especially the VR4, there was on member who insisted it was on par with a supercar. He was ridiculed quite a bit. It is no more so than a TT Supra, FD RX7, etc. Nice cars, fast cars, but not exactly a Mclaren F1 or similar.


 i have a friend with one that makes 511awhp. it will sequentially burn its tires as it hunts for traction, it's hilarious. it even chirps third.


----------



## gtivr4 (Sep 22, 2000)

marcelo09 said:


> Q; How long can a car sit until it no longer runs? assuming that its brand new and has already been broken in properly? I guess there could be different results depending if you remove the remaining gas and etc... but would be nice to know the answer to both or all scenarios!
> 
> 
> thanks :thumbup::beer:


 You mean how long can it sit before it won't start (ie the battery has been drained), or how long it will sit and run (ie the engine idling)? 

In the former, it all depends on the capacity of the battery and how much its being drained. I would say a couple months in a best case scenario. Of course if you can pull the battery, you can go years. As far as gas is concerned, you are best filling it up so there is no condensation, and adding stabil. 

In the latter situation, a car would run until it runs out of gas, so maybe as long as a couple of days on a car with a large, full tank.


----------



## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

TetsuoShima said:


> Why is the 3000GT a joke in TCL? It's a beast of a car:


 I seem to remember a lot of problems with the transfer cases where the fluid would leak out and all four wheels would lock up as you were going down the road.


----------



## l5gcw0b (Mar 3, 2000)

MrMook said:


> What if the car were running a dry-sump oil system? That takes it out of the "average car" category, but it might work.


 Nope, no oil pickup in the cam/valve covers, so no oil once the tank drains. Also i doubt rockers and cams were made to run submerged in oil= not very long.


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## PDong (Oct 26, 2004)

TetsuoShima said:


> Why is the 3000GT a joke in TCL? It's a beast of a car:


 Have we all forgotten Pelko already? A young boy from South America who clamined, insistently, that his 3000GT was a supercar?


----------



## l5gcw0b (Mar 3, 2000)

C4 A6 said:


> Nub question (asking because I probably haven't experienced it) but *what exactly is brake hop*?


 Worn shocks or poor suspension design allowing wheel to keep bouncing when hitting a bump instead of following the road smoothly. Similar to wheel hop common on live axle vehicles during acceleration.


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

l5gcw0b said:


> Worn shocks or poor suspension design allowing wheel to keep bouncing when hitting a bump instead of following the road smoothly. Similar to wheel hop common on live axle vehicles during acceleration.


 Thanks :thumbup:


----------



## Gitcha Sum (May 27, 2008)

Ok I got a question: 
Emissions equipment, it keeps pollution down, but seems to keep MPG's down too, so, if you removed the regs, and let motors run like they could, would they could get way better mileage? So why the tradeoff? If you just use less gas to go further, isn't that better than burning more of it slightly cleaner?


----------



## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

What is it in Honda automatic (and possibly manuals) that other automatics have? Some synchro or something?


----------



## IndigoDriver (Jul 3, 2004)

Why do they not make more odd cylinder engines? 


ex: 5cylinder,7cylinder,9cylinder


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

^ internal balancing mainly 



deucestudios said:


> Ok I got a question:
> Emissions equipment, it keeps pollution down, but seems to keep MPG's down too, so, if you removed the regs, and let motors run like they could, would they could get way better mileage? So why the tradeoff? If you just use less gas to go further, isn't that better than burning more of it slightly cleaner?


 You'd increase MPGs by a few percent while dumping exponentially more pollution into the air. Fuel used is not an analog to environmental impact; the drilling and refining (and byproducts) already exist by the time you stop at Shell


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## 1.8Tquattro (Aug 13, 2006)

IndigoDriver said:


> Why do they not make more odd cylinder engines?
> 
> 
> ex: 5cylinder,7cylinder,9cylinder


 They do. 
I can't think of a 7 or 9 cyl off the top of my head but there have been several 5cyl engines. 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Straight-five_engine


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## TetsuoShima (Nov 30, 2008)

I heard that 5cyl(at least NA ones) engines are pointles...don't get as good mpg's as 4 cylinders and less power than 6cyls(and turbo 4's)...how true are these statements?


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

I'd say they are not true. Take a look at the VW lineup. 

Jetta S - 2.0L 4-cyl. engine - 24 cty/34 hwy mpg - 115 hp 
Jetta SE - 2.5L 5-cyl. engine - 23 cty/33 hwy mpg - 170 hp 

1MPG less to get an additional 55hp.


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

l88m22vette said:


> the drilling and refining (and byproducts) already exist by the time you stop at Shell


 What if I stop at BP?


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

As long as its not Citgo


----------



## yeayeayea (May 29, 2005)

l88m22vette said:


> As long as its not Citgo


 I filled up at a citgo tonight, whats wrong with citgo? 

If its something serious, it was only $7.49 worth of premium into my bike


----------



## subgraphic (Sep 14, 2003)

Ok, heres my stupid question: why does it seem that my AC doesn't blow when I make sharp corners?


----------



## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

I don't autocross much because I don't have much time to go to local events, so this always perplexes me: In autocross, is it better if a car does this: 

Rear wheel up: 









Or if all 4 wheels stay on the ground? 

Or it doesn't matter because VWs use that rear axle set up?


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Its better for all 4 wheels to be on the ground, peglegging wastes grip/energy because not all of it is being applied to the pavement; its typical of too-stiff suspension settings or mis-matched springs and dampeners (at this point it gets into suspension voodoo)


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

l88m22vette said:


> *Its better for all 4 wheels to be on the ground*, peglegging wastes grip/energy because not all of it is being applied to the pavement; its typical of too-stiff suspension settings or mis-matched springs and dampeners (at this point it gets into suspension voodoo)


 Or is it? 
What if you want the car to rotate a little to battle pushy understeer? (playing devils advocate...I really don't know what's "better"). 
I have to say I was a little disappointed when my new suspension did not have me 3-wheeling at the last autocross. And it wasn't for lack of tire grip, since I'm running Dunlop Z1 Star-Specs. 

So which is better for a VW (or other torsion beam car)? A little "assistance" in getting the back end to rotate by reducing grip (stiffer springs + rear anti-roll bar), or a flexible, more "independent" rear suspension that keeps both wheels on the gruond? 

The more I think about it, the less I understand it. 

My VW _not_ 3-wheeling:


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Enjoy the reading, these have been linked and relinked all over since the original Sport Compact Car articles... http://forums.acuralegend.org/ultimate-guide-suspension-and-t19267.html?


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

l88m22vette said:


> Enjoy the reading, these have been linked and relinked all over since the original Sport Compact Car articles... http://forums.acuralegend.org/ultimate-guide-suspension-and-t19267.html?


 :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## d_98se (Jun 19, 2007)

Why do regular vehicles require several turns of the steering wheel lock to lock? Why not have one turn of the steering lock to lock? Wouldn't this be safer in the sense that you don't have to cross your arms or "Milk the Wheel" while turning? I hope this not that stupid.


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

Well the # of turns is dependent on steering ratio. But I think the reason for such "long" ones is probably for safety reasons. If a 180 degree turn takes the wheel from lock to lock, that leaves very little room for error in turning maneuvers. And since most people who drive cars can't drive for jack, giving them that much more room to make a mistake is better safe than sorry. 

Think about it this way: on the highway, your car will never always be traveling parallel to the lane markers; it lists side to side with imperfections and/or the wind. It usually takes a small jerk of the wheel to get you back to normal. But if you had a steering rack like the one you want, that small jerk will send you into the next lane.


----------



## subgraphic (Sep 14, 2003)

subgraphic said:


> Ok, heres my stupid question: why does it seem that my AC doesn't blow when I make sharp corners?


 This is a serious question, it happens often and in multiple cars Ive owned.. 


:sly:


----------



## PDong (Oct 26, 2004)

subgraphic said:


> Ok, heres my stupid question: why does it seem that my AC doesn't blow when I make sharp corners?


 The power steering pump is driven by a belt that also attaches to the A/C fan (among other things), the extra tension on the line slows the fan. 

At least, that's how I was led to understand it.


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

What is this symbol? 
Is it a manufacturer, or some sort of compliance code for wheels? I've seen it on my Konig wheels, and also on my OEM VW wheels, which is where this crappy image comes from:


----------



## Gepi (Jan 26, 2005)

MrMook said:


> What is this symbol?
> Is it a manufacturer, or some sort of compliance code for wheels? I've seen it on my Konig wheels, and also on my OEM VW wheels, which is where this crappy image comes from:


 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JWL_standard


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## 280CEEEEE (Oct 19, 2010)

Gepi said:


> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JWL_standard


 Ah, thanks. I work at a salvage yard and I see this all the time on just about every wheel and I thought it was an OEM manufacturer or something. Good to finally know what it was! 

I tried to look it up previously but I couldn't see that it was a JWL and it seemed to be two letters only. :screwy:


----------



## 280CEEEEE (Oct 19, 2010)

yeayeayea said:


> I would say most cars dont have windshield tint, as i dont think its legal unless you have a "prescription" saying that too much sunlight messes up your eyes.


 No, but plenty of people do it despite that.


----------



## vasillalov (Nov 5, 2003)

StormChaser said:


> I'd say they are not true. Take a look at the VW lineup.
> 
> Jetta S - 2.0L 4-cyl. engine - 24 cty/34 hwy mpg - 115 hp
> Jetta SE - 2.5L 5-cyl. engine - 23 cty/33 hwy mpg - 170 hp
> ...


 You are comparing an ancient 8V motor to a relatively newer design motor. The 8V 2.0 engine was a poor design even in the 80's when it first came out.


----------



## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

vasillalov said:


> You are comparing an ancient 8V motor to a relatively newer design motor. The 8V 2.0 engine was a poor design even in the 80's when it first came out.


 The "new" I5 is just the 2.0 with an extra cylinder. Well, more to the point the 2.0 is a 2.5 with one cylinder lopped off. Neither are all that closely related to the old 2.slow of years gone by.


----------



## l5gcw0b (Mar 3, 2000)

subgraphic said:


> Ok, heres my stupid question: why does it seem that my AC doesn't blow when I make sharp corners?


 Hold a hose pointed at your face. Now jump to the left or right. It temporarily stopped spraying you in the face! Air does the same thing.


----------



## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

StormChaser said:


> The "new" I5 is just the 2.0 with an extra cylinder. Well, more to the point the 2.0 is a 2.5 with one cylinder lopped off. Neither are all that closely related to the old 2.slow of years gone by.


 The 2.0 in the new Jetta is the same ol' SOHC 2-valve 2.slow, just without a distributor and a plastic intake manifold. The 2.5 is a DOHC 4-valve design with a timing chain. 

2011 Jetta:


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

2.sl0 = one of the best LeMons motors ever.


----------



## KahviVW (Feb 26, 2009)

atomicalex said:


> 2.sl0 = one of the best LeMons motors ever.


 :what::sly:


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 21, 2006)

atomicalex said:


> 2.sl0 = one of the best LeMons motors ever.


 :thumbup:


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

C4 A6 said:


> Well the # of turns is dependent on steering ratio. But I think the reason for such "long" ones is probably for safety reasons. If a 180 degree turn takes the wheel from lock to lock, that leaves very little room for error in turning maneuvers. And since most people who drive cars can't drive for jack, giving them that much more room to make a mistake is better safe than sorry.
> 
> Think about it this way: on the highway, your car will never always be traveling parallel to the lane markers; it lists side to side with imperfections and/or the wind. It usually takes a small jerk of the wheel to get you back to normal. But if you had a steering rack like the one you want, that small jerk will send you into the next lane.


 
In addition to your explanation. Cars used to have huge steering wheels because that was the mechanical advantage over the front wheels. When you increase the ratio, or more turns lock-to-lock, you decrease the strength needed to move the front wheels. The ratio becomes the mechanical advantage instead of the size of the wheel. It's not a big deal when you are at speed, only in low-speed maneuvers.


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

OK, I've got a question. Not sure if I've asked this on TCL before. 

Where does the tire dust go when it wears off of our tires? Why aren't the roadsides covered in it? Think about a gallon milk jug. Now imagine that much rubber. That's how much comes off of an average tire in its lifetime. 

When a car or truck screeches to a halt it leaves a visible trail of rubber. When you spin your tires the same thing happens. Why aren't there two rubber-covered strips down each lane of concrete? 

With all the tires on all the vehicles, where is the tire dust?


----------



## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

barry2952 said:


> With all the tires on all the vehicles, where is the tire dust?


I found this: 
http://www.straightdope.com/columns/read/2661/when-the-rubber-meets-the-road-where-does-it-go


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

adrew said:


> I found this:
> http://www.straightdope.com/columns/read/2661/when-the-rubber-meets-the-road-where-does-it-go


Holy crap!


----------



## d_98se (Jun 19, 2007)

*Whats so great about those late '80's and early '90's 3'er's?*

Whats so great about those late '80's and early '90's BMW 3'er's? The 'you need an E30" thread on this board has exactly 381,860 views. I do get the E30 M3 but the rest.......can somebody please educate me.


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Aside from the fact that we've owned an '88 325iX from new and that it still has the vast majority of its original parts at 107,000 miles, it's become iconic. They are a blast to drive in about any form and have more parts suppliers than many American classic cars. 

I've offered many times to replace her winter car with a new xi, but she won't hear of it. She says I'll have to pry it out of her hands. There must be something to that.


----------



## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

barry2952 said:


> Where does the tire dust go when it wears off of our tires?


I used to live near a freeway. My windows were filthy with tire-dust.


----------



## Sold Over Sticker (Nov 29, 2009)

d_98se said:


> Whats so great about those late '80's and early '90's BMW 3'er's? The 'you need an E30" thread on this board has exactly 381,860 views. I do get the E30 M3 but the rest.......can somebody please educate me.


Two parts:

1. It's old, so you can excuse some coarseness, roughness, and ride/handling traits that you wouldn't in a modern car, yet those sensations add to the fun factor (basically, the car doesn't feel as sterile as a Lexus like the new 3's do). 

2. They're fun to drive, even down to a 325e Automatic. Lightweight, they turn in well, the steering communicates well, the car is small, visibility is great, and the limits are nice and low, so driving hard is possible and safe on backroads (unlike the new ones where you have to haul some serious arse to be having any measure of fun).


----------



## TetsuoShima (Nov 30, 2008)

Can someone explain to me in lamen terms what offset is when talking about wheels? I know about negative and positive camber but where does offset play into that?


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

TetsuoShima said:


> Can someone explain to me in lamen terms what offset is when talking about wheels? I know about negative and positive camber but where does offset play into that?


Envision that your wheel is 8" wide. A zero offset means that the backside of the mounting surface of the wheel is 4" from the back of the rim.

On my '56 Mark II I had a clearance problem using radial tires instead of bias-ply. The tire nearly touched the upper ball joint. I had steel wheels made with a 3/4" shallower back-set, effectively increasing my wheelbase by 1.5".


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 21, 2006)

TetsuoShima said:


> Can someone explain to me in lamen terms what offset is when talking about wheels? I know about negative and positive camber but where does offset play into that?












A lower offset or ET would push the wheel out away form the disk brake and lower the MM between the center line and the actual mounting face of the wheel.


----------



## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

barry2952 said:


> Envision that your wheel is 8" wide. A zero offset means that the backside of the mounting surface of the wheel is 4" from the back of the rim.
> 
> On my '56 Mark II I had a clearance problem using radial tires instead of bias-ply. The tire nearly touched the upper ball joint. I had steel wheels made with a 3/4" shallower back-set, effectively increasing my wheelbase by 1.5".


Little known fact, is you have to add about an extra 1/4" to get the backspacing when converting from offset. For example an 8" wide wheel with a zero offset is actually a 4.25" backspace. This is because offset is measured from the inside of the tire bead flange, and backspace is measured from the outside of it.


----------



## 1.8TRabbit (Nov 15, 2004)

What is the difference with Audi's fog light options? Every Audi I have owned they both do the same thing.


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

You are correct. Do you know what the bump in the tire rim is for?


----------



## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

barry2952 said:


> You are correct. Do you know what the bump in the tire rim is for?


What bump? The drop center? Or are you referring to the bump on the tire bead area on a rim designed for a runflat tire?


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

RedRabidRabbit said:


> What bump? The drop center? Or are you referring to the bump on the tire bead area on a rim designed for a runflat tire?


Actually, that bump by the outer flange was there long, long, before run-flat tires. It's there to keep mechanics from damaging their fingers on initial tire fill. The tire stops at the bump until much higher pressures are applied. If you still get injured, you're in line for a Darwin Award.


----------



## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

barry2952 said:


> Actually, that bump by the outer flange was there long, long, before run-flat tires. It's there to keep mechanics from damaging their fingers on initial tire fill. The tire stops at the bump until much higher pressures are applied. If you still get injured, you're in line for a Darwin Award.


Yeah, didn't know that, interesting. 

The flange on the runflat wheels is actually on the inside, as I'm sure you know. There's a small one on normal wheels but it's much larger on a runflat wheel.


----------



## JeffIsLax (Mar 26, 2005)

RedRabidRabbit said:


> Little known fact, is you have to add about an extra 1/4" to get the backspacing when converting from offset. For example an 8" wide wheel with a zero offset is actually a 4.25" backspace. This is because offset is measured from the inside of the tire bead flange, and backspace is measured from the outside of it.


I always thought it was an extra 1/2", as indicated in this chart


----------



## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

barry2952 said:


> On my '56 Mark II I had a clearance problem using radial tires instead of bias-ply. The tire nearly touched the upper ball joint. I had steel wheels made with a 3/4" shallower back-set, effectively increasing my wheelbase by 1.5".


This is nitpicking and I'd guess you simply misspoke, but since this is an educational thread I'm going to point it out: You effectively increased your_ track width_ by 1.5", not your wheelbase.


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Roadkilled78 said:


> This is nitpicking and I'd guess you simply misspoke, but since this is an educational thread I'm going to point it out: You effectively increased your_ track width_ by 1.5", not your wheelbase.


You are correct.


----------



## TetsuoShima (Nov 30, 2008)

awesome, much clearer now thanks guys:beer:


----------



## cryption (Mar 28, 2006)

1.8TRabbit said:


> What is the difference with Audi's fog light options? Every Audi I have owned they both do the same thing.


I would have thought front and rear fogs, but you say they do the same thing?


----------



## CodeMan (May 12, 2006)

JeffIsLax said:


> I always thought it was an extra 1/2", as indicated in this chart


It's not a constant measurement, it's the thickness of the bead lip, which could vary from wheel to wheel.


----------



## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

CodeMan said:


> It's not a constant measurement, it's the thickness of the bead lip, which could vary from wheel to wheel.


:thumbup::beer:


----------



## ctrapeni (Aug 12, 2000)

cryption said:


> I would have thought front and rear fogs, but you say they do the same thing?


Yes, one switch is for the front foglight and the other for the rear. On Audi, both switches turn on the front foglights - the thought being that if you want a rear foglight, you must need a front foglight also. Only the rear switch turns on the rear foglight(s)

fixed the duh typo


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 21, 2006)

ctrapeni said:


> Yes, one switch is for the front foglight and the other for the rear. On Audi, both switches turn on the front foglights - the thought being that if you want a rear foglight, you must need a front foglight also. Only the rear switch turns on the rear foglight(s)


Fixed. It is also the same with Mercedes. I can't only turn on my rear fog my fronts have to be on.


----------



## Lifelong Obsession (Jul 24, 2011)

*Fox Mustangs*

Why do all Fox ('79-'93) Mustangs (other than SVOs) only have 4 lugs? I can understand the Mustang's compact car roots, but they kept the 4 lugs even on the '93 SVT Cobra!


----------



## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

Lifelong Obsession said:


> Why do all Fox ('79-'93) Mustangs (other than SVOs) only have 4 lugs? I can understand the Mustang's compact car roots, but they kept the 4 lugs even on the '93 SVT Cobra!


Just the way they were designed. Not really enough power to need a fifth lug, but somehow the weak Non-PI that follows needs them. At least you can do 5-lug swaps for dirt cheap.


----------



## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

Wha's the story behind Callahan Auto Parts t-shirts? Tanner foust wore one in this Sunday's episode of TG.


----------



## A1pocketrocket (Jan 28, 2002)

MightyDSM said:


> Wha's the story behind Callahan Auto Parts t-shirts? Tanner foust wore one in this Sunday's episode of TG.


go back and watch Tommy Boy :thumbup:


----------



## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

A1pocketrocket said:


> go back and watch Tommy Boy :thumbup:


OHhhh...DUH. Now it makes sense :laugh:

Thanks :thumbup:


----------



## d_98se (Jun 19, 2007)

Hybrid question here and this relates to the gas/electric combo. Why use brake regeneration when you can bolt an industrial strength Alternator directly to the crank and charge the batteries pronto. 

Alternately why not bolt one to the wheels or half-shafts and use the rotation of the wheels to charge the batteries?


----------



## Mr. Clarkson (Jul 24, 2008)

d_98se said:


> Hybrid question here and this relates to the gas/electric combo. Why use brake regeneration when you can bolt an industrial strength Alternator directly to the crank and charge the batteries pronto.
> 
> Alternately why not bolt one to the wheels or half-shafts and use the rotation of the wheels to charge the batteries?


Mechanical / parasitic effects of harnessing power from those locations?


----------



## _8v (Jul 26, 2011)

Any Mitsubishi head in here? I have a 92 Diamante that is not starting, my friend took it to the shop and apparently there is an issue with the alarm system. She claimed they reset the system, and on her way she went. A few hours later the car would not start again. According to other sources, there is a toggle switch under the dash that will reset the alarm and the car will start. I can not find said toggle switch. Thanks.


----------



## Mr. Clarkson (Jul 24, 2008)

_8v said:


> Any Mitsubishi head in here?


What's the statute of limitations on getting head in a Mitsubishi? It's been years since I've had that happen, so it might not be recent enough for you.


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

d_98se said:


> Hybrid question here and this relates to the gas/electric combo. Why use brake regeneration when you can bolt an industrial strength Alternator directly to the crank and charge the batteries pronto.
> 
> Alternately why not bolt one to the wheels or half-shafts and use the rotation of the wheels to charge the batteries?


Simply put, brake regeneration is recovering otherwise wasted energy to put back into the batteries. What you are describing would be taking energy going to the wheels to drive the car. There is no such thing as perpetual motion.


----------



## _8v (Jul 26, 2011)

Mr. Clarkson said:


> What's the statute of limitations on getting head in a Mitsubishi? It's been years since I've had that happen, so it might not be recent enough for you.



Mitsubishi head*s*. I shouldve figured id get a response like that from here..

Anyone, theyve hidden this thing well, or I am just blind..


----------



## nosrednug (Nov 14, 2007)

On track days, why do people put tape, usually in a crosshair design, on their head light lenses?


----------



## 302W (Jul 24, 2004)

To hold the shards of glass/plastic together and keep it off the track in case debris breaks your headlight.


----------



## KrautFed (Jan 9, 2002)

Why are vehicles still manufactured where leaving a light on kills the battery?


----------



## PDong (Oct 26, 2004)

KrautFed said:


> Why are vehicles still manufactured where leaving a light on kills the battery?


Rhetorically?

It's cheaper, obviously. (not trying to be a jerk, just, that's actually the reason)


----------



## 1.8TRabbit (Nov 15, 2004)

cryption said:


> I would have thought front and rear fogs, but you say they do the same thing?


Ok, I understand. But are rear foglights aftermarket? Because every Audi I have owned has never had rear fogs. :thumbup:


----------



## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

nosrednug said:


> On track days, why do people put tape, usually in a crosshair design, on their head light lenses?


This was already answered at LEAST three times in this thread.

But its too keep the glass intact in case of a collision


----------



## 280CEEEEE (Oct 19, 2010)

RacerrRex said:


> This was already answered at LEAST three times in this thread.
> 
> But its too keep the glass intact in case of a collision


Intact would imply it would prevent it from breaking/cracking. I think you meant that it serves to keep the glass together and free from the track.


----------



## 280CEEEEE (Oct 19, 2010)

1.8TRabbit said:


> Ok, I understand. But are rear foglights aftermarket? Because every Audi I have owned has never had rear fogs. :thumbup:


My 2006 A4 had rear fogs. Here is a post for the B6 which says it had it, as well:

http://www.audi-forums.com/b6-forum/36140-where-what-rear-fog-light.html

I think you pull the light switch once or twice, I don't recall. You can see the red in the back of your car get brighter.


----------



## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

What's the difference between a sunroof and moonroof?


----------



## muffintop (Oct 15, 2009)

If I attempt a timing belt change on my miata and somehow mess it up. (IE- get it one tooth off) is it going to grenade my motor or just make it so it won't run?


----------



## Turbo-D (Jan 28, 2003)

muffintop said:


> If I attempt a timing belt change on my miata and somehow mess it up. (IE- get it one tooth off) is it going to grenade my motor or just make it so it won't run?


Spin the engine over by hand carefully to see if all the valves clear and if they do it should run but not well.


----------



## nosrednug (Nov 14, 2007)

BRealistic said:


> What's the difference between a sunroof and moonroof?


From what I understand, marketing a "sunroof" in hot climates like Phoenix doesn't work well. "Moonroof" suggests a cooler(as in temp) option.


----------



## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

I thought sunroof was one that opens up all the way and moon roof was just the glass?


----------



## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

C4 A6 said:


> I thought sunroof was one that opens up all the way and moon roof was just the glass?


The term has become interchangable kind of now. 

Moonroof originally referred to glass tops that could open as well. And sunroof were metal or plastic to prevent UV and Sunlight from coming in the car. But nowadays its very uncommon (maybe no even available) to get a car with a solid sunroof. All the ones I see are glass.


----------



## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

PDong said:


> The power steering pump is driven by a belt that also attaches to the A/C fan (among other things), the extra tension on the line slows the fan.
> 
> At least, that's how I was led to understand it.





subgraphic said:


> This is a serious question, it happens often and in multiple cars Ive owned..
> 
> 
> :sly:





subgraphic said:


> Ok, heres my stupid question: why does it seem that my AC doesn't blow when I make sharp corners?


During a tight turn (especially when on the steering stop IE: Parking lot or U-Turn) the p/s line pressure is elevated. Some late model vehicles use a line pressure transducer/switch to monitor pressure. 

When high pressure is detected, the ecm can do several things, increase engine RPM, reduce alternator charging voltage, and disengage A/C compressor clutch. This is to prevent engine stalling and reduced vehicle performance that is common on older (especially carburetor equipped) vehicles.



Jeep FSM said:


> When steering pump pressure exceeds 1896 kPa +/- 345 kPa (275 +/-50psi) the normally closed switch will open and the PCM will increase the engine idle speed. The will prevent the engine from stalling.
> 
> When steering pump pressure drops below approximately 70 psi, the switch circuit will close and engine idle speed will return to its previous setting.


----------



## FigureFive (Dec 21, 2003)

Haven't read all 55 pages, so I apologize if this is a repeat ?.

You know how cars with automatic transmission creep forward when in gear and you have to keep a foot on the brake to remain stopped. What happens to the energy and momentum when you keep the brakes applied? Is there some sort of mechanism whereby that energy just gets uselessly released somehow, or does it stress the drive train and cause excess wear? I get that it's not a huge issue as automatics have functioned this way for a very long time. It has just always bugged me.


----------



## cryption (Mar 28, 2006)

1.8TRabbit said:


> Ok, I understand. But are rear foglights aftermarket? Because every Audi I have owned has never had rear fogs. :thumbup:


Both I've owned did have them, but it was the newer style switch so you pull one click for front and two clicks for rear. I think it's a factory option.


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

FigureFive said:


> Haven't read all 55 pages, so I apologize if this is a repeat ?.
> 
> You know how cars with automatic transmission creep forward when in gear and you have to keep a foot on the brake to remain stopped. What happens to the energy and momentum when you keep the brakes applied? Is there some sort of mechanism whereby that energy just gets uselessly released somehow, or does it stress the drive train and cause excess wear? I get that it's not a huge issue as automatics have functioned this way for a very long time. It has just always bugged me.


The transmission gets its power through the fluid drive of the torque converter. At low speeds there is not much energy transferred. There is no wear because it's just two sets of vanes operating against each other with fluid, not a mechanical connection.


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

> What happens to the energy and momentum when you keep the brakes applied?


It turns into heat, which warms the transmission fluid. But as mentioned... there isn't much.


----------



## heebz (Nov 17, 2009)

Hope this hasn't been asked yet, haven't gone through too many earlier pages...

Why has Dodge changed their truck line manufacture name to "Ram?"


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

heebz said:


> Why has Dodge changed their truck line manufacture name to "Ram?"


They're trying to separate their car and truck brands so they can attract more buyers in their respective markets. Dodge will be only cars, which they can market as a more edgy, energetic car brand (or something), and RAM will focus on "real" truck buyers, and perhaps more commercial fleet markets. Apparently Chrysler is looking to add semi-tractors to their RAM lineup through their collaboration with FIAT. Hmm. 

Anyway, here's a quote from Ram Division President Fred Diaz:

"Ram trucks will always and forever be Dodges. Ram will always have the Dodge emblem inside and outside and they will be vinned as a Dodge. We need to continue to market as Ram so Dodge can have a different brand identity: hip, cool, young, energetic. That will not fit the campaign for truck buyers. The two should have distinct themes." via Wikipedia


----------



## 302W (Jul 24, 2004)

RacerrRex said:


> This was already answered at LEAST three times in this thread.
> 
> But its too keep the glass intact in case of a collision


I am annoyed at redundancy, so I will answer a question again.


----------



## TetsuoShima (Nov 30, 2008)

Why do some cars have hood scoops with the opening towards the windshield?









Wouldn't more air get inside if it was reversed like this:


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

TetsuoShima said:


> Why do some cars have hood scoops with the opening towards the windshield?


The area just in front of the windshield is a high-pressure zone (when the car is in motion), which allows the reverse scoop to draw fresh air into the engine bay. The cabin air intake/filter is under the windshield cowl for the same reasons.

For lack of a more technical term, I think the reverse scoop is a more "passive" induction, since it just allows the existing pressure zone to push air into the hood. The forward scoop is more "active" since it's usually positioned in a low-pressure zone, and has to "actively" jut out into the air flow over the hood in order to get sufficient draw.


----------



## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

Why are oem wheel sizes getting bigger and bigger? is it just a styling trend or is there some benefit to 17+ in wheels? I think it is interesting to see that most race cars have an appreciable amount of sidewall while street cars are getting less and less. 

for example, the race car has more sidewall than the roadcar:



















And in this example:



















So i guess maybe a two-part question 1, why are wheels getting bigger and bigger? and 2, why do race cars typically have more sidewall than high performance street cars? (because racecar )


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

A.Wilder said:


> So i guess maybe a two-part question 1, why are wheels getting bigger and bigger? and 2, why do race cars typically have more sidewall than high performance street cars? (because racecar )


1. I think style is a big part of it. Cars in general are getting bigger, so larger wheels help them look "to scale". However, on high-performance cars, the larger wheels often allow bigger brakes. Performance-wise, brakes are the only reason I can see for going with a larger wheel.

2. It must have something to do with traction, responsiveness, and air pressure. A super-thin tire would likely run at higher pressure, when you combine that with an already thin and stiff sidewall, you probably wind up with a rock-hard ride, especially when they heat up to race temps. 

I imagine a larger sidewall (within reason) would allow more reasonable pressures, a bit of "pneumatic suspension" to absorb impacts, and greater grip as it allows the tire surface to deform more to the road surface. Sidewall flex may also help the tire stay at peak grip longer, since it can absorb some of the sideways G-forces in corners, keeping the tread on the road, while a shorter sidewall tire might break grip sooner.


----------



## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

TetsuoShima said:


> Why do some cars have hood scoops with the opening towards the windshield?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Ram air versus cowl induction.

Ram air works under the principle that air is pushed down the intake when the car is moving.

Cowl induction works under a similar principle as ram air, but instead of relying on the air getting shoved into the intake, the cowl induction simply access the higher pressure air at the base of the windshield (when car is moving). Cowl induction seemed to work better on the older cars with less refined aerodynamics (and more vertical windshields). To get a proper ram air scoop on say that Trans Am, they would probably have to make the scoop much taller to get "clean air".


----------



## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

MrMook said:


> 1. I think style is a big part of it. Cars in general are getting bigger, so larger wheels help them look "to scale". However, on high-performance cars, the larger wheels often allow bigger brakes. Performance-wise, brakes are the only reason I can see for going with a larger wheel.


Don't forget the taller doors/sides on modern cars- maybe the result of added side safety?
The taller sides means taller wheels help with keep the proportions eye pleasing.
Imagine a 911 or Corvette with wheel/side proportions like this:


----------



## under the radar (Mar 5, 2007)

fender 'flares' or 'flairs'?


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

BRealistic said:


> Ram air versus cowl induction.
> 
> Ram air works under the principle that air is pushed down the intake when the car is moving.
> 
> Cowl induction works under a similar principle as ram air, but instead of relying on the air getting shoved into the intake, the cowl induction simply access the higher pressure air at the base of the windshield (when car is moving). Cowl induction seemed to work better on the older cars with less refined aerodynamics (and more vertical windshields). To get a proper ram air scoop on say that Trans Am, they would probably have to make the scoop much taller to get "clean air".


I am told by a very reliable source, the designer of the Trans Am, that there was very little thought that went into the shaker hood scoop. Bill Porter designed the Trans Am with the twin scoops used on another model. He was very upset that the big wigs at GM felt it necessary that they have a shaker hood to compete with Chrysler and abandoned his design. When he restored his TA he put the proper hood on it. I have a picture of that around here somewhere.


----------



## nosrednug (Nov 14, 2007)

under the radar said:


> fender 'flares' or 'flairs'?


Definitely 'Flares', never heard anyone refer to them as 'flairs'.

*?*


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Flares.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Fender flare:










Fender flair:


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

A.Wilder said:


> 2, why do race cars typically have more sidewall than high performance street cars? (because racecar )


Rules.


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## 302W (Jul 24, 2004)

I keep running into this argument with my friends and I just wanna make sure.

Once you turn on your A/C, the drain on the engine is the same no matter what, right? Whether you have the A/C on low or max, it doesn't matter, the compressor is engaged and making the engine work at the same rate, correct? I always assumed the compressor works the same and the blower motor just blows harder depending on the setting. I keep getting into arguments with people who say not to blast the A/C because it will hurt the mileage...


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## yeayeayea (May 29, 2005)

302W said:


> I keep running into this argument with my friends and I just wanna make sure.
> 
> Once you turn on your A/C, the drain on the engine is the same no matter what, right? Whether you have the A/C on low or max, it doesn't matter, the compressor is engaged and making the engine work at the same rate, correct? I always assumed the compressor works the same and the blower motor just blows harder depending on the setting. I keep getting into arguments with people who say not to blast the A/C because it will hurt the mileage...


yes, your ac compressor only has on or off, via an electric clutch. max setting usually involves running recirc, which will allow cooler temps out of the vents because its bringing cooler, dryer air into the coil. I work on HVAC for a living, and i can tell you I have never seen an automotive compressor with unloading cylinders like you would find on a commercial or industrial unit.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

yeayeayea said:


> yes, your ac compressor only has on or off, via an electric clutch.


Unless your car has a variable displacement compressor.

And even if it doesn't, the compressor cycles on and off to get the amount of cooling you need.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

302W said:


> I keep running into this argument with my friends and I just wanna make sure.
> 
> Once you turn on your A/C, the drain on the engine is the same no matter what, right? Whether you have the A/C on low or max, it doesn't matter, the compressor is engaged and making the engine work at the same rate, correct? I always assumed the compressor works the same and the blower motor just blows harder depending on the setting. I keep getting into arguments with people who say not to blast the A/C because it will hurt the mileage...


Your friends are not very bright. You need to find some smarter friends if that's what they argue about.


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## Bias_Ply (Feb 6, 2010)

I once rode in a car with a guy who felt that way about air conditioning. He had it on at all times set on cold. But he didn't want me to turn the blower up to "high" because it would hurt his fuel economy.

I chose to not say anything. True story.


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## Sir UNBANNED_GERBIL M.B. (Jan 15, 2003)

A.Wilder said:


> Why are oem wheel sizes getting bigger and bigger? is it just a styling trend or is there some benefit to 17+ in wheels? I think it is interesting to see that most race cars have an appreciable amount of sidewall while street cars are getting less and less.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I have nothing really to add. Except I always look back to this

http://www.caranddriver.com/features/10q1/effects_of_upsized_wheels_and_tires_tested-tech_dept


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Bias_Ply said:


> I once rode in a car with a guy who felt that way about air conditioning. He had it on at all times set on cold. But he didn't want me to turn the blower up to "high" because it would hurt his fuel economy.
> 
> I chose to not say anything. True story.




Here's how dumb your friend is. The speeds are controlled by powering a single speed fan motor through a set of three resistors that provide four different speeds. The resistors put off heat as a byproduct of slowing the motor down. The lower the speed the higher the resistance. Since these resistors are placed in the cold air stream inside the HVAC equipment their heat is being put into the cabin, so the lower the speed of the fan the least efficient the air conditioning is.:facepalm:

You need some brighter friends, too.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

barry2952 said:


> Here's how dumb your friend is. The speeds are controlled by powering a single speed fan motor through a set of three resistors that provide four different speeds. The resistors put off heat as a byproduct of slowing the motor down. The lower the speed the higher the resistance. Since these resistors are placed in the cold air stream inside the HVAC equipment their heat is being put into the cabin, so the lower the speed of the fan the least efficient the air conditioning is.:facepalm:
> 
> You need some brighter friends, too.


Yes, Resistors are used to control the fan speed, however, the resistors not only drop the voltage seen at the motor, but they also drop the amount of current consumed by the circuit. So your circuit is not consuming 50W all the time, and dumping the lower fan speeds as heat. At low speed, the circuit may only be consuming 15 watts, and dumping 5 of that as heat. While that 66% is technically less efficient than the fan at full power... 15 Watts is a lot less than 50 watts. And that tiny bit of wattage introduced into the blower air is small potatoes compared to the amount of energy involved in the rest of the AC process.

As far as the AC draw goes... With the fan on high speed, you will be pulling more cooled air from the evaporator, thus demanding more work from the system. You can test this by idling the car, and measuring the duty cycle of the AC compressor at different fan speeds (it will run longer, and more often with more cool air being drawn fro it), or if you have a variable compressor and a Scangauge, you can watch the gal/hr rate change as you demand more cool air, and the compressor works harder to supply it.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

That's irrelevant as electricity is free in a gas automobile. Efficiency of the electric motor circuit doesn't matter as it is replaced at no cost.


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

barry2952 said:


> That's irrelevant as electricity is free in a gas automobile. Efficiency of the electric motor circuit doesn't matter as it is replaced at no cost.


I don't think it's 'free'. An alternator will only send as much electricity as the battery is demanding. Much like having a water faucet opened up all the way vs half way.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

It's still free, as the alternator is always turning while the engine is running. You can't shut off the mechanical drag of the alternator, so it's a contant and simply a byproduct of a running engine, thus free, unlike metered electricity we pay for in our homes.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

barry2952 said:


> That's irrelevant as electricity is free in a gas automobile. Efficiency of the electric motor circuit doesn't matter as it is replaced at no cost.


I wasn't talking about that. 
I was talking about this supposed waste that you're saying occurs, where it goes, and how relevant it is to the system as a whole.
Heat from the fan controller is less than you're saying, and it makes no appreciable difference to the temperature of the air coming out of the vents.

But blowing the fan at high speed will absolutely, no doubt, make the AC compressor work harder, and that is not free.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Wrong. The compressor works as a constant. Blowing more air over the coil doesn't make the system work harder. The system works as a contant with regulation done by air mixing doors.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

barry2952 said:


> It's still free, as the alternator is always turning while the engine is running. You can't shut off the mechanical drag of the alternator,


Ask for more amperage from the alternator, and it gets harder to turn. The difference between 10, 25, or 50 watts is minimal, sure... but that wasn't what you were talking about. And it's small potatoes compared to the 3-5 hp (equivalent to thousands of watts) that the AC compressor sucks from the engine, and blows into your car in the form of cold air.

That's why dumping the little wattage from the fan speed controller into the air flow is irrelevant.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

O_o said:


> Rules.


But would the race teams use a taller sidewall or shorter sidewall if there were no rules?

F1 car has tall sidewall:










Drifter has little sidewall:










I assume it depends on the car/track/and other variables. I suspect F1 uses larger sidewalls to help traction and add some dampening to the stiff chassis, but i could be wrong.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

barry2952 said:


> Wrong. The compressor works as a constant.


If your AC is running at a 100% duty cycle, it's either:

1) Too small
or
2) Broken.

The rest of the world's AC systems have duty cycles (or variable displacement) that vary dependent on the load.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Surf Green said:


> If your AC is running at a 100% duty cycle, it's either:
> 
> 1) Too small
> or
> ...


Yes, controlled by a thermostat. While in demand they run at full load regardless of fan speed, correct?


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

barry2952 said:


> Yes, controlled by a thermostat. While in demand they run at full load regardless of fan speed, correct?


For non-variable displacement compressors, yes. 

But since this entire discussion is centered around fuel economy, it's not relevant to just talk about the instance when the compressor is on. It's only relevant to talk about how often it turns on, and how long it stays on. Because those facts will determine the effect on fuel economy. 

At low fan speeds, the demand from the system will be lower, the duty cycle will be lower, and the compressor will run less often... which will equate to less fuel economy hit.
At high fan speeds, the demand from the system will be higher, the duty cycle will he higher, ad the compressor will run more often... which will equate to a bigger fuel economy hit.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Surf Green said:


> For non-variable displacement compressors, yes.
> 
> But since this entire discussion is centered around fuel economy, it's not relevant to just talk about the instance when the compressor is on. It's only relevant to talk about how often it turns on, and how long it stays on. Because those facts will determine the effect on fuel economy.
> 
> ...


I disagree.


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## PDong (Oct 26, 2004)

Surf Green said:


> For non-variable displacement compressors, yes.
> 
> But since this entire discussion is centered around fuel economy, it's not relevant to just talk about the instance when the compressor is on. It's only relevant to talk about how often it turns on, and how long it stays on. Because those facts will determine the effect on fuel economy.
> 
> ...


This does kinda strike me as similar to the "I turned the oven to 500 so that it gets to 350 sooner..." sort of thing.

How many cars had systems like this?


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

Surf Green said:


> For non-variable displacement compressors, yes.
> 
> But since this entire discussion is centered around fuel economy, it's not relevant to just talk about the instance when the compressor is on. It's only relevant to talk about how often it turns on, and how long it stays on. Because those facts will determine the effect on fuel economy.
> 
> ...


I know in theory that makes sense, but my butt dyno tells me that i'm losing the same power regardless of how hard the is air blowing. This would be a good mythbusters episode. :thumbup:


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## 302W (Jul 24, 2004)

Hmmm, so it's not _that_ clear cut.


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## A1pocketrocket (Jan 28, 2002)

I have followed this thread for awhile, contributing a tiny bit here and there...but here I sit at work where I do rear axle stuff all day long. I always talk to guys who are all too proud to tell me about their cam specs/carburetor specs/how much over the block is bored/etc. but ask them a single question about their rear axle and they have no clue. Rear axles seem to be black magic to a lot of car guys, so I'll field any questions. I do Ford 9 inch stuff specifically, but know more than just the 9 inch.


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## nosrednug (Nov 14, 2007)

So you prefer a 9 incher in your rear? 

sorry couldn't resist. Back on topic.


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## A1pocketrocket (Jan 28, 2002)

nosrednug said:


> So you prefer a 9 incher in your rear?
> 
> sorry couldn't resist. Back on topic.


I am, in fact, a rearend specialist. I put 9 inches in peoples rears for money. :wave:


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

A1pocketrocket said:


> I am, in fact, a rearend specialist. I put 9 inches in peoples rears for money. :wave:


I'm in the lighting business. I get paid to get high on the job.

OK, I do have a question. My 1933 Continental has a Budd rear axle with a 9/39 gear set. The engine sounds like it wants to come apart at 45 so I'm considering an overdrive that will effectively give me a 4th year, dropping engine rpm by 30%.

With only a 65 hp engine, what is the lowest gear ratio I could go that would still give me drivability and a reduction in engine rpm. I really don't want to do much over 50 as you have to plan your stops with cable brakes.


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## A1pocketrocket (Jan 28, 2002)

barry2952 said:


> I'm in the lighting business. I get paid to get high on the job.
> 
> OK, I do have a question. My 1933 Continental has a Budd rear axle with a 9/39 gear set. The engine sounds like it wants to come apart at 45 so I'm considering an overdrive that will effectively give me a 4th year, dropping engine rpm by 30%.
> 
> With only a 65 hp engine, what is the lowest gear ratio I could go that would still give me drivability and a reduction in engine rpm. I really don't want to do much over 50 as you have to plan your stops with cable brakes.


do you know what the transmission ratios are now? Im assuming a 3 speed with a 1:1 final drive? You must have a sizeable tire on that thing or a really loose torque converter. With a gear ratio of 4.33 at 45 MPH and a 1:1 you would turn 2,338 RPM with a 28 inch(guesstimate) tall tire, not counting for torque converter loss.
Im assuming you're looking into an over/underdrive unit or are you looking for an actual overdrive gear in a different transmission? Even a modest .80 overdrive would put you down into 1,871 RPM with the same factors.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

A1pocketrocket said:


> do you know what the transmission ratios are now? Im assuming a 3 speed with a 1:1 final drive? You must have a sizeable tire on that thing or a really loose torque converter. With a gear ratio of 4.33 at 45 MPH and a 1:1 you would turn 2,338 RPM with a 28 inch(guesstimate) tall tire, not counting for torque converter loss.
> Im assuming you're looking into an over/underdrive unit or are you looking for an actual overdrive gear in a different transmission? Even a modest .80 overdrive would put you down into 1,871 RPM with the same factors.


Torque converter?

I don't know the tire diameter, but they are 17" wheels. I will gather the information tomorrow.

Yes, it would be a mid-shaft overdrive vs. a final drive ratio change.


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## A1pocketrocket (Jan 28, 2002)

barry2952 said:


> Torque converter?
> 
> I don't know the tire diameter, but they are 17" wheels. I will gather the information tomorrow.
> 
> Yes, it would be a mid-shaft overdrive vs. a final drive ratio change.


hah, sorry. I didn't consider the year/transmission.


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

302W said:


> I keep running into this argument with my friends and I just wanna make sure.
> 
> Once you turn on your A/C, the drain on the engine is the same no matter what, right? Whether you have the A/C on low or max, it doesn't matter, the compressor is engaged and making the engine work at the same rate, correct? I always assumed the compressor works the same and the blower motor just blows harder depending on the setting. I keep getting into arguments with people who say not to blast the A/C because it will hurt the mileage...


You're right. Compressor is on or off. The rest of the magic is done with dampers, just like the heat.


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

barry2952 said:


> It's still free, as the alternator is always turning while the engine is running. You can't shut off the mechanical drag of the alternator, so it's a contant and simply a byproduct of a running engine, thus free, unlike metered electricity we pay for in our homes.


Generating electricity requires torque in addition to the mechanical "drag". The more the magnet lags the electric field, the higher the torque, and the more current. So the more electric energy is consumed, the higher the average torque on the alternator.


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## pueblorrado v3.0 (Nov 22, 2006)

O_o said:


> You're right. Compressor is on or off. The rest of the magic is done with dampers, just like the heat.


This is completely untrue. Most cars (all in the past several years) have systems which are computer controlled. These systems use temperature sensors on the evaporator core to signal the PCM/HVAC module to cycle the AC compressor clutch. When the amount of air blowing through the evap core is low or cool, the rate at which the evap core warms. if the AC clutch cycles at the same period and frequency (duty cycle) as it would on a very hot day on full blast, then the core will get TOO cool and ultimately the condensation wouldn't be liquid, it would freeze and ultimately block airflow through the evap core and your AC would then be rendered useless. For this reason they use temp sensors on the evap core to ensure that it is maintained at the correct temp, thus if conditions are such that the warming of the core are lessened it will cycle the compressor less often and cause less load on the engine. 

Older systems also use pressure switches to control the system. if the evaporation on the high side at the evap core is decreased the high side pressure will remain longer, and the system will cycle less frequently as well. 

so yeah, turning down the AC will result in improved fuel efficiency.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

A.Wilder said:


> But would the race teams use a taller sidewall or shorter sidewall if there were no rules?
> 
> F1 car has tall sidewall:
> 
> Drifter has little sidewall:


This furthers my theory that a lower profile tire will break grip sooner under sideways loads (g-forces), which would make sense for a drift car, and no sense at all for an F1 car.


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

MrMook said:


> This furthers my theory that a lower profile tire will break grip sooner under sideways loads (g-forces), which would make sense for a drift car, and no sense at all for an F1 car.


Not inherently though. It's a balance between being too hard, and having too much sidewall flex. In F1 (or pretty much any racing series) tire and wheel dimensions are part of the rules. I honestly couldn't tell you which way they would go if they could do whatever they wanted. Probably not hellaflush, but probably not like a Funny-car either.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

O_o said:


> Generating electricity requires torque in addition to the mechanical "drag". The more the magnet lags the electric field, the higher the torque, and the more current. So the more electric energy is consumed, the higher the average torque on the alternator.


OK, well, almost free. The drag is minuscule compared to the a/c compressor.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

A1pocketrocket said:


> do you know what the transmission ratios are now? Im assuming a 3 speed with a 1:1 final drive? You must have a sizeable tire on that thing or a really loose torque converter. With a gear ratio of 4.33 at 45 MPH and a 1:1 you would turn 2,338 RPM with a 28 inch(guesstimate) tall tire, not counting for torque converter loss.
> Im assuming you're looking into an over/underdrive unit or are you looking for an actual overdrive gear in a different transmission? Even a modest .80 overdrive would put you down into 1,871 RPM with the same factors.


Yes, it is a 3-speed with a 2.83 first, 1.65 second and final drive of 1:1. The tires are 29.02" in diameter.


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## A1pocketrocket (Jan 28, 2002)

barry2952 said:


> Yes, it is a 3-speed with a 2.83 first, 1.65 second and final drive of 1:1. The tires are 29.02" in diameter.


http://www.gearvendors.com/custom.html
Probably your best bet. If you could even find a different ratio for that rear it would make first gear near unusable.


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## d_98se (Jun 19, 2007)

In a turbo charged vehicle, is it possible to remove the turbo and run the engine naturally aspirated? Short of reduced power and ECU tamper is there anything else to worry about?


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## 302W (Jul 24, 2004)

pueblorrado v3.0 said:


> This is completely untrue. Most cars (all in the past several years) have systems which are computer controlled. These systems use temperature sensors on the evaporator core to signal the PCM/HVAC module to cycle the AC compressor clutch. When the amount of air blowing through the evap core is low or cool, the rate at which the evap core warms. if the AC clutch cycles at the same period and frequency (duty cycle) as it would on a very hot day on full blast, then the core will get TOO cool and ultimately the condensation wouldn't be liquid, it would freeze and ultimately block airflow through the evap core and your AC would then be rendered useless. For this reason they use temp sensors on the evap core to ensure that it is maintained at the correct temp, thus if conditions are such that the warming of the core are lessened it will cycle the compressor less often and cause less load on the engine.
> 
> Older systems also use pressure switches to control the system. if the evaporation on the high side at the evap core is decreased the high side pressure will remain longer, and the system will cycle less frequently as well.
> 
> so yeah, turning down the AC will result in improved fuel efficiency.


How recently did they become computer controlled?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

I don't believe that any of mine are. On my 750iL the air is on all the time to cool the computer center. The V-12 has 3 ECUs.


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

d_98se said:


> In a turbo charged vehicle, is it possible to remove the turbo and run the engine naturally aspirated? Short of reduced power and ECU tamper is there anything else to worry about?


In theory it should work. By ECU tampering you mean like O2 sensors that won't be picking up anything if the turbo doesn't connect anything and the exhaust fumes are just pouring out of the exhaust manifold?


----------



## A1pocketrocket (Jan 28, 2002)

d_98se said:


> In a turbo charged vehicle, is it possible to remove the turbo and run the engine naturally aspirated? Short of reduced power and ECU tamper is there anything else to worry about?












essentially a 1.8t with no turbo


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## yeayeayea (May 29, 2005)

302W said:


> How recently did they become computer controlled?


I too want to know, as I have never experienced my compressor cycling based on load. In my vw's (none newer than 97) if the AC light is on and the fan speed isnt on 0, that ac compressor is on 100% of the time. I have vag com, is there a measuring block i can watch to see if it cycles?



C4 A6 said:


> In theory it should work. By ECU tampering you mean like O2 sensors that won't be picking up anything if the turbo doesn't connect anything and the exhaust fumes are just pouring out of the exhaust manifold?


Yeah, just dont try running it with the turbo installed but no intercooler piping. If you do it that way, there isnt any resistance on the turbo, and it can spin way higher rpms than its designed for.


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

yeayeayea said:


> Yeah, just dont try running it with the turbo installed but no intercooler piping. If you do it that way, there isnt any resistance on the turbo, and it can spin way higher rpms than its designed for.


I think he wanted to take out the snail and leave the EM as an open header.

I've always wanted to see an Evo with the 4G63 or B(whatever numbers) NA style (just remove the turbo stuff and flash the ECU, no tuning allowed). Those cars would be NOTHING without FI.


----------



## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

yeayeayea said:


> I too want to know, as I have never experienced my compressor cycling based on load. In my vw's (none newer than 97) if the AC light is on and the fan speed isnt on 0, that ac compressor is on 100% of the time. I have vag com, is there a measuring block i can watch to see if it cycles?


My past several cars have all cycled the compressor with more frequency with a low fan speed. If it's hot out and I have the fan on low, the compressor will cycle off and on. But if I switch the fan to high it will run continuously until the whole cabin is freezing cold, then start cycling. 

It works the same way with defrosting. If it's cold and clammy inside the car the A/C compressor may not engage since the sensor will register the cold temperature. But if you turn on a little heat and blast the fan it will effect a higher duty cycle for the compressor and you'll get better dehumidification.



The ECU in all of the fuel-injected cars I've had will also turn off the compressor during brisk acceleration, high revs and/or WOT for maximum acceleration.


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## d_98se (Jun 19, 2007)

*Multiple Engine Internals Question.*

Flat Plan Crankshaft in the Ferrari 458 what is so special about this and why doesn't Ford have it in the 5.0? Is it more expensive to make/implement?

Why do diesel engines rev so low and produce high torque figures? Does this have anything to do with diesel fuel?

Why does HP and TQ cross at exactly 5xxx rpm?

Somebody has cobbled together two Suzuki Hayabusa engines to make a very light 2.8liter V8 Producing 400 hp and 245 tq. 

Will i be a winner if i slot this engine into a Miata, Honda S2000 or even the RX-8 Mazda.


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## d_98se (Jun 19, 2007)

A1pocketrocket said:


> I do Ford 9 inch stuff specifically, but know more than just the 9 inch.


Is 9' the diameter of the differential or?


----------



## d_98se (Jun 19, 2007)

C4 A6 said:


> In theory it should work. By ECU tampering you mean like O2 sensors that won't be picking up anything if the turbo doesn't connect anything and the exhaust fumes are just pouring out of the exhaust manifold?


This is correct. To all who responded thanx. I asked this question because Underground Racing is slapping TT to N.A Gallardo V10's so i was guessing the reverse may be true.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

d_98se said:


> Somebody has cobbled together two Suzuki Hayabusa engines to make a very light 2.8liter V8 Producing 400 hp and 245 tq.
> 
> Will i be a winner if i slot this engine into a Miata, Honda S2000 or even the RX-8 Mazda.


LOL. Winner in what? They already tossed that into an Ariel Atom, which is already lighter and faster than all of your options, so up against that.....no :laugh:


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

d_98se said:


> Is 9' the diameter of the differential or?


That refers to the diameter of the ring gear. The number of teeth on this gear relative to the pinion gear determines final drive ratio.
My '33 Continental has a pinion gear with 9 teeth and a ring gear with 39 teeth for a final drive ratio of 4.33:1.

That help?


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

yeayeayea said:


> I too want to know, as I have never experienced my compressor cycling based on load. In my vw's (none newer than 97) if the AC light is on and the fan speed isnt on 0, that ac compressor is on 100% of the time.


I can with almost 100% certainty say that this is not accurate. They most certainly cycle unless there is something majorly wrong. Some cycle hased on pressures, some based on temp, but they pretty much all cycle. If they didn't, the core would most certainly freeze up on all but they hottest days. Heck, even the AC on my mid 60s Impala cycled. So did the one on my 78 Impala, and the 81 Audi and so farth...every one cycels. Now with a more modern system with lower drag and a smoother clutch and compressor, you may not notice it, but pull it in the garage on a semi cool day, put the ac on with fan on low or 2 close the doors and pop the hood....listen for a lick ever few...


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## d_98se (Jun 19, 2007)

barry2952 said:


> That refers to the diameter of the ring gear. The number of teeth on this gear relative to the pinion gear determines final drive ratio.
> My '33 Continental has a pinion gear with 9 teeth and a ring gear with 39 teeth for a final drive ratio of 4.33:1.
> 
> That help?


It helps. By looking at this image the large circular gear is the ring gear while the smaller one driving it is the pinion gear. Is this correct?










While we're at it. are the internal differentials of an independent suspension similar to a live axle setup? Why is the housing on a live axle differential bigger than on an independent one?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

d_98se said:


> It helps. By looking at this image the large circular gear is the ring gear while the smaller one driving it is the pinion gear. Is this correct?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yes, that is correct.

I would thing that the differential would be wider because there would be two sets of bearings per side, but I could be wrong.


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

d_98se said:


> Flat Plan Crankshaft in the Ferrari 458 what is so special about this and why doesn't Ford have it in the 5.0? Is it more expensive to make/implement?
> 
> *Flat Plane cranks are not balanced and have to use balance shafts to reduce vibrations. But they have less mass and are able to rotate faster than the normal cross plane cranks. They generally require more complex design and you lose the typical V8 burble because Flat plane cranks fire 2 cylinders on the same side at a time. *
> 
> ...


Hope this helps. (Also I may be wrong on these.)


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## 302W (Jul 24, 2004)

StormChaser said:


> I can with almost 100% certainty say that this is not accurate. They most certainly cycle unless there is something majorly wrong. Some cycle hased on pressures, some based on temp, but they pretty much all cycle. If they didn't, the core would most certainly freeze up on all but they hottest days. Heck, even the AC on my mid 60s Impala cycled. So did the one on my 78 Impala, and the 81 Audi and so farth...every one cycels. Now with a more modern system with lower drag and a smoother clutch and compressor, you may not notice it, but pull it in the garage on a semi cool day, put the ac on with fan on low or 2 close the doors and pop the hood....listen for a lick ever few...


So older systems cycle based on pressure, while newer systems cycle based on temperature? Does a higher a/c setting cause pressure to drop more frequently? I wanna say no.


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

mellbergVWfan said:


> Hope this helps. (Also I may be wrong on these.)


Eh, the motorcycle engine mileage thing is off. I have 31,000 miles on my motorcycle and the compression check I did a month ago when I ran the valves was still at factory new levels. Lots of bikes out there even have 100,000+ miles. The reason why you don't see that too often on the race reps is because they either A) get wrecked well before they get there or B) don't get ridden because the noob owner is terrified of it.

Now, the V8 (RST, et al) you are talking about (which actually, isn't really "two 'busa blocks put together", it is actually a bespoke engine block and crank based on the Hayabusa design, though some versions do use the Suzuki heads) may need rebuilding more often. I really don't know anything about the maintenance schedule on those things.


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

302W said:


> So older systems cycle based on pressure, while newer systems cycle based on temperature? Does a higher a/c setting cause pressure to drop more frequently? I wanna say no.


I'm actually a MACS and ASE certified mobile A/C tech, so maybe I can answer some questions...

They are still very much regulated on pressure. There is a sweet spot for r134a (and all refrigerants) to move the most amount of heat. So, the system does what it can to maintain that pressure range. This is done by cycling the compressor on and off, as already stated. Of course, that pressure will change dependent on the amount of refrigerant in the system, which is why your car has a specific spec for that volume.

That said, there are newer, fancier systems that can cycle the compressor off if the cabin has reached a certain temp. I've not serviced or worked on a system like this, but I hear they exist anyway. Most cars with auto climate control just open up the coolant valve to the heater core to raise the temp of the air after it passes over the evaporator.

As far as a higher A/C setting, I assume you are talking about blower speed. The blower will put more heat into the refrigerant the faster it is running, which will lower pressure in the system at a faster rate. Think about it, you are cooling a higher volume of air, so that much more heat will be absorbed into the system. However...while this technically will cause the compressor to operate at a higher duty cycle, I would be surprised if it is actually measurable. 

On a related, somewhat interesting sidenote, if you run the blower at a lower speed, the air coming out of your vents will be a few degrees cooler than if it is on full blast. It spends more time in proximity to the evaporator that way. :beer:


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

TurboWraith said:


> Eh, the motorcycle engine mileage thing is off. I have 31,000 miles on my motorcycle and the compression check I did a month ago when I ran the valves was still at factory new levels. Lots of bikes out there even have 100,000+ miles. The reason why you don't see that too often on the race reps is because they either A) get wrecked well before they get there or B) don't get ridden because the noob owner is terrified of it.
> 
> *Fair enough. Thanks for the correction.*
> 
> ...





> Q: What is the time between rebuild?
> A: It varies with the application. You can expect it to be similar to other engines used in the same manner.
> 
> Q: What is the cost of a rebuild?
> A: It is very reasonable because technical information is provided so you have your local engine builder provide the service. A bill of material is provided with each engine and many wearing parts such as bearings, rings and pistons can be purchased directly from their manufacturer.


Which basically tells us nothing, haha. :laugh:


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## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

Why do men drivers rev their engines when stopped (manual trans)?

I do this too... and I have no idea why.


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

mellbergVWfan said:


> Which basically tells us nothing, haha. :laugh:


True story. :laugh:

"It needs rebuilt when compression sucks" :laugh::laugh:





BRealistic said:


> Why do men drivers rev their engines when stopped (manual trans)?
> 
> I do this too... and I have no idea why.


I dunno. Cause its fun?


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## Ben.Reilly (Jun 20, 2008)

Do sequential gear boxes allow you to mis shift and over rev? For example, a modern Ferrari paddle shifter. If you accidentally shift down twice, will it take or will the computer recognize the error and not over rev?


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## Cubster (Nov 26, 2002)

Wy no supercharged diesels?


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## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

Cubster said:


> Wy no supercharged diesels?


Because race car.


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

Cubster said:


> Wy no supercharged diesels?


There are PLENTY. Every GM/Detroit Diesel engine has a supercharger (blower). You can see it on top of this old junker 8-71:










In fact, the DD blowers are VERY popular with the hotrod crowd. That's what most people bolt onto their blown V8x, although most choose the smaller one from a DD 6-71.


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## Cubster (Nov 26, 2002)

I take it that there is a fault in using them? The big three use turbo charged trucks. ?


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

Ben.Reilly said:


> Do sequential gear boxes allow you to mis shift and over rev? For example, a modern Ferrari paddle shifter. If you accidentally shift down twice, will it take or will the computer recognize the error and not over rev?


I was thinking about this the other day while messing around on Forza 3. I would like to know the answer as well.


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## Iroczgirl (Feb 17, 2007)

Cubster said:


> I take it that there is a fault in using them? The big three use turbo charged trucks. ?


Not at all. As a matter of fact ALL 2 cycle diesels use blowers.


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## 1.8t man (Nov 21, 2001)

with all these websites dedicated to deliver your groceries for you. why are women still allowed to drive..


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

BRealistic said:


> Why do men drivers rev their engines when stopped (manual trans)?


Because penis.



Cubster said:


> Wy no supercharged diesels?


All of our mid sized (75kW-200kW) Mil-Spec generators are supercharged.
It works great on a system that runs at a constant RPM.

Although our biggest 440kW unit is a twin turbo, 2 cycle 12 Cylinder. It smells as loud as it is.


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

Surf Green said:


> Although our biggest 440kW unit is a twin turbo, 2 cycle 12 Cylinder. It smells as loud as it is.


If it's loud, it must be a Detroit Diesel! The "Screaming Jimmy!"....12-71? TI? TA? 

Supercharging overall has fallen out of favor because, unlike a turbo, they cause parasitic loss even when "not needed" under light load conditions such as those once a car has gotten up to speed. the advantage is there is no "turbo lag"...they are always spun up, no waiting for boost to build.


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## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

d_98se said:


> Why do diesel engines rev so low and produce high torque figures? Does this have anything to do with diesel fuel?
> 
> Why does HP and TQ cross at exactly 5xxx rpm?


Diesel engines mainly have a longer stroke (as opposed to bore) than gasoline cars. A longer stroke means that the piston is pushing for a longer amount of time on its 'bang' stroke, which produces more force (torque). The long stroke also means that it takes longer for the piston to make a full revolution, which lessens the engines RPM. Also, diesel fuel contains more energy per volume than gasoline, and burns longer, helping take advantage of the longer stroke to produce more torque.


Horsepower is actually a derived value from torque, with 5252 being a constant in the equation.


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

Iroczgirl said:


> Not at all. As a matter of fact ALL 2 cycle diesels use blowers.


OK, I'm totally "taken" and not available so I'km not hitting on you...but why is it totally hawt that a girl knows this? Hell, most Diesel loving GUYS don't...a big :thumbup: to you!


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

Smigelski said:


> Diesel engines mainly have a longer stroke (as opposed to bore) than gasoline cars. A longer stroke means that the piston is pushing for a longer amount of time on its 'bang' stroke, which produces more force (torque). The long stroke also means that it takes longer for the piston to make a full revolution, which lessens the engines RPM. Also, diesel fuel contains more energy per volume than gasoline, and burns longer, helping take advantage of the longer stroke to produce more torque.
> 
> 
> Horsepower is actually a derived value from torque, with 5252 being a constant in the equation.


And 5,252rpm is exactly where torque and hp will cross if charted!


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## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

StormChaser said:


> And 5,252rpm is exactly where torque and hp will cross if charted!


Yep. I guess I didn't state it explicitly, but if HP and t in the equation are equal, then you get 1 = (1* RPM)/5252. Then multiply both sides by 5252 and you get 5252 = RPM. So whenever HP and torque are equal, the RPM must be 5252, which is why they cross at that point on the chart.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

The bottom of this page provides the derivation of the constant 5252.

http://www.epi-eng.com/piston_engine_technology/power_and_torque.htm


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## WhitePoloCT (Jul 28, 2005)

Ben.Reilly said:


> Do sequential gear boxes allow you to mis shift and over rev? For example, a modern Ferrari paddle shifter. If you accidentally shift down twice, will it take or *will the computer recognize the error and not over rev?
> *


Yes.


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

1.8t man said:


> with all these websites dedicated to deliver your groceries for you. why are women still allowed to drive..


Have you seen the milfmobiles these days? They are practically moving houses! But I agree, no kitchen, no driving.


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## URSledgehammer (Oct 3, 2008)

What is compressor surge? How does it sound? Does it sound different from gate noise? 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LZUbo_mNDZM
So whats different?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=469mi4UOVK0

Now please explain anti-lag?


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

URSledgehammer said:


> What is compressor surge? How does it sound? Does it sound different from gate noise?
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LZUbo_mNDZM
> So whats different?
> ...


Your first video had a pretty good explination on compressor surge.

"Compressor surge is a phenomenon experienced when boost pressure inside the intake tract builds up and has no convenient relief method. This is usually caused from the throttle plate closing quickly. Changing load conditions (off throttle) resulting in varying amounts of exhaust gas can also simulate such conditions. 

In such a case, the pressure takes the only way out through the turbocharger compressor housing. The unique sound is caused by the pressure charge encountering the spinning compressor wheel on its escape from the engine. 

Compressor surge goes by many other names such as compressor stall, turbo dose or dosing, pigeon, turbo flutter/chatter and sometimes mistakenly wastegate chatter."

Clarkson was wrong when he said the wastegate was responsible for that noise. Typically, you can't hear the wastegate doing anything on a turbo car. Unless said car is equipped with a straight-to-atmosphere dump, like this one.






Hear that thing that sorta kinda sounds like vtec kicking in? Thats the sound of a wastegate opening up. All it does is dump exhaust gas BEFORE it gets to the turbine side of the turbocharger. The idea is that the wastegate regulates system boost pressure.

Anti-lag is actually really simple. The system works by bypassing charge air directly to the exhaust manifold which acts as a combustor when fuel rich exhaust from the engine meets up with the fresh air from the bypass. This will provide a continuous combustion limited to the exhaust manifold keeping the turbo spinning at a higher speed than it would normally.


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## SVTDanny (Aug 8, 2005)

TurboWraith said:


> Anti-lag is actually really simple. The system works by bypassing charge air directly to the exhaust manifold which acts as a combustor when fuel rich exhaust from the engine meets up with the fresh air from the bypass. This will provide a continuous combustion limited to the exhaust manifold keeping the turbo spinning at a higher speed than it would normally.


More commonly, what you see on street cars are two step antilag systems. A lower rev limit is set for when the clutch is disengaged, and once this RPM limit is hit, timing is retarded and spark is randomly dropped, allowing raw fuel to be pushed through to the exhaust manifold.

The misfires/dumping of raw fuel is what causes the popping/flames, like this:


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## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

Surf Green said:


> Because penis.
> .


I don't think it's that simple.
Only a small fraction of male drivers do it (blip throttle/rev engine when sitting still).
When I use an electric drill- I don't blip the tigger to make it rev in excitement when not actually drilling. 

Maybe this has something to do with older vehicles- cars and trucks that did not run right when cold (carb)? So the throttle blip might just be a "yes, it revs right and doesn't stall/hesitate" test since trying to pull out in 1st gear with a cantankerous engine can be difficult.


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

djsheijkdfj said:


> More commonly, what you see on street cars are two step antilag systems. A lower rev limit is set for when the clutch is disengaged, and once this RPM limit is hit, timing is retarded and spark is randomly dropped, allowing raw fuel to be pushed through to the exhaust manifold.


Right. But correct me if I am wrong, that is more used as a 'launch control' type application.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

TurboWraith said:


> Right. But correct me if I am wrong, that is more used as a 'launch control' type application.


Stutter Box. 

I used to work with a guy who was big into DSM, and he had one.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

BRealistic said:


> I don't think it's that simple.


That's okay. My response wasn't mean to be that serious.



> When I use an electric drill- I don't blip the tigger to make it rev in excitement when not actually drilling.


Oh... I do that sometimes. I even blip the throttle right before I power over-steer my grocery cart.



> Maybe this has something to do with older vehicles- cars and trucks that did not run right when cold (carb)? So the throttle blip might just be a "yes, it revs right and doesn't stall/hesitate" test since trying to pull out in 1st gear with a cantankerous engine can be difficult.


Maybe this is were I learned it. Most older CIS VWs required the occasional wake-up call when idling.


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## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

BRealistic said:


> Maybe this has something to do with older vehicles- cars and trucks that did not run right when cold (carb)? So the throttle blip might just be a "yes, it revs right and doesn't stall/hesitate" test since trying to pull out in 1st gear with a cantankerous engine can be difficult.


I do it in the maverick from time to time for that reason, especially when the engine is cold.

In the Miata I've been known to check that I really still have oil pressure because the gage is known to be crap and some weeks it sits at 0psi at idle. When I notice this my semi-OCD requires me to check that the needle does in fact move when rpm rises. That's about all the thing is good for. "Yeah, uh, there's some pressure. Somewhere. Maybe."


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## AutoUnion32 (Oct 4, 2008)

Ben.Reilly said:


> Do sequential gear boxes allow you to mis shift and over rev? For example, a modern Ferrari paddle shifter. If you accidentally shift down twice, will it take or will the computer recognize the error and not over rev?


VAG's DSG will not let you over rev, so I'm going to assume the Ferrari box is the same way


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## 302W (Jul 24, 2004)

TurboWraith said:


> I'm actually a MACS and ASE certified mobile A/C tech, so maybe I can answer some questions...
> 
> They are still very much regulated on pressure. There is a sweet spot for r134a (and all refrigerants) to move the most amount of heat. So, the system does what it can to maintain that pressure range. This is done by cycling the compressor on and off, as already stated. Of course, that pressure will change dependent on the amount of refrigerant in the system, which is why your car has a specific spec for that volume.
> 
> ...


Cool, lots of good info from you in here :thumbup:


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## nosrednug (Nov 14, 2007)

^^ very interesting thanks.


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## A1pocketrocket (Jan 28, 2002)

d_98se said:


> While we're at it. are the internal differentials of an independent suspension similar to a live axle setup? Why is the housing on a live axle differential bigger than on an independent one?


the actual differential itself is almost identical. The Cobra Mustang had an independent 8.8 while the GT had a live axle 8.8. The gears were the same and the carriers were very similar save for a slightly different offset. Vipers have an independent Dana 60, which is very similar to a live axle 60 that was used in earlier Mopars. Jaguars use an independent 44 that is similar to an early Corvette, which use the same/similar parts to the live axle counterparts. The independent cases are very close in size to the live axles when you set them side by side. Cast centers have to carry the weight of the tubes, so that might be the size difference you're seeing.


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

Roadkilled78 said:


> In the Miata I've been known to check that I really still have oil pressure because the gage is known to be crap and some weeks it sits at 0psi at idle. When I notice this my semi-OCD requires me to check that the needle does in fact move when rpm rises. That's about all the thing is good for. "Yeah, uh, there's some pressure. Somewhere. Maybe."


Must be a Mazda thing, the RX-7 does that too.


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## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

Wait a damn minute. Since when do you have a '93 RX7?


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## SVTDanny (Aug 8, 2005)

TurboWraith said:


> Right. But correct me if I am wrong, that is more used as a 'launch control' type application.


Yes, but it works as an anti lag when flat foot shifting.


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

djsheijkdfj said:


> Yes, but it works as an anti lag when flat foot shifting.


:thumbup:


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## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

Surf Green said:


> Maybe this is were I learned it. Most older CIS VWs required the occasional wake-up call when idling.


Hmmm. Have experience, do agree.



Roadkilled78 said:


> "Yeah, uh, there's some pressure. Somewhere. Maybe."


I carry a talisman for that. An old main bearing that's not really suitable for use as a bearing any more.........


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## d_98se (Jun 19, 2007)

Ben.Reilly said:


> Do sequential gear boxes allow you to mis shift and over rev? For example, a modern Ferrari paddle shifter. If you accidentally shift down twice, will it take or will the computer recognize the error and not over rev?


I also wanted to know the answer to this particular question and also whether it was possible to over rev a formula one engine by quickly selecting downshifts while arriving at a corner as asked by someone on this site. With that in mind, i sent out some emails and here is the response as per Craig Scarborough who maintains a blog relating to the technical side of Formula 1.

http://scarbsf1.wordpress.com/

My Email to him.

_Hello Mr Scarborough,

In a regular road-car with a manual transmission, selecting the 2nd gear instead of 5th will lead to a mechanical over rev and most likely engine death. I’ve also discovered that automated manuals like you’d find in the Ferrari 458 will also not let you select a gear that will over rev the engine. I also am aware that on a sequential F1 transmission, you have to select each gear in succession so no opportunity to mistakenly select the wrong gear.

My questions regarding the sequential F1 tranny is this.

Is it possible to over rev a F1 engine by banging out downshifts in quick succession or does the ECU lock out gear selection when there is danger of an over rev? 

Do the high RPMS on a F1 engine prevent the likely hood of a mechanical over rev ever taking place?

If you are racing and 2nd gear dies out on you, is it possible to downshift into 1st for a 2nd gear corner or will the ECU deny gear change until the speed has dropped low enough?

If indeed the ECU allows gear selection will the rears lock up and send you off into the weeds?

Thank you in advance._

*And His Response*

*As you suspected the SECU has been coded to prevent over reving the engine on downshifts. A driver can call for a lower gear and if the ECU thinks the revs wont match the shift wont be actioned. I suspect it is near impossible to overrev an F1 engine nowadays, only odd siutations such as the rear wheels being affected by bumps, either by over driving the rear wheel or the wheel leaving the ground and the revs soaring. even then the teams have code to try to detect and prevent such occurences. *


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## Subie J (Dec 17, 2009)

I was stuck behind a nissan xterra for an hour today in traffic. What's the purpose of the hump on the tailgate/trunk?


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## TetsuoShima (Nov 30, 2008)

Probably answered here but when automakers say this car has 200bhp or 300hp, is there a difference between HP and BHP? Is the HP and BHP measured in different places? Where does WHP fit into all of this? What do the majority of automakers/magazines use, BHP?


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Subie J said:


> I was stuck behind a nissan xterra for an hour today in traffic. What's the purpose of the hump on the tailgate/trunk?


First aid kit:


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## freedomweasel (Apr 15, 2010)

Subie J said:


> I was stuck behind a nissan xterra for an hour today in traffic. What's the purpose of the hump on the tailgate/trunk?


Based on the commercials I saw for it when the car was first released, I believe there was a first aid kit hidden in there, for all your sweet, rugged, off-road adventures.


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## ttvick (Aug 15, 2007)

TetsuoShima said:


> Probably answered here but when automakers say this car has 200bhp or 300hp, is there a difference between HP and BHP? Is the HP and BHP measured in different places? Where does WHP fit into all of this? What do the majority of automakers/magazines use, BHP?


1. HP is the output horsepower rating of an engine, while BHP is the input brake horsepower of an engine.

2. B HP is the measurement of an engine’s power without any power losses, while HP is BHP less the power losses.

3. HP is measured by hooking up the engine to a dynamometer, while BHP is measured in a controlled environment without anything attached to the engine.

Read more: Difference Between HP and BHP | Difference Between | HP vs BHP http://www.differencebetween.net/technology/difference-between-hp-and-bhp/#ixzz1UV8bEbHL

By this definition, WHP = HP, while horsepower at the crank is BHP. I think that we see WHP mentioned so often now because horsepower numbers from the manufacturers are almost always quoting power from the crank, not wheel horsepower. The manufacturers may or may not correctly list the car's power output as BHP (indicating power at the crank) as opposed to HP, thus, again, why we see people comparing actual power numbers use WHP so often, since it's what's measured on a dyno.


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## Subie J (Dec 17, 2009)

adrew said:


> First aid kit:





freedomweasel said:


> Based on the commercials I saw for it when the car was first released, I believe there was a first aid kit hidden in there, for all your sweet, rugged, off-road adventures.


That's actually pretty cool. :thumbup:


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## QUIRKiT (Dec 19, 2006)

TetsuoShima said:


> Probably answered here but when automakers say this car has 200bhp or 300hp, is there a difference between HP and BHP? Is the HP and BHP measured in different places? Where does WHP fit into all of this? What do the majority of automakers/magazines use, BHP?


HP is exactly what you think it is, horse power. It's just a unit of measurement.

BHP = Brake Horse Power - it's the measurement of the power taken directly at the crank, before the losses of the drive line is figured in.

WHP = Wheel Horse Power - the measurement of the power taken at the wheels, after the losses of the drive line.

Good Wiki Article on it HERE.

EDIT: Beat, damnit. D:


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## TetsuoShima (Nov 30, 2008)

ttvick said:


> 1. HP is the output horsepower rating of an engine, while BHP is the input brake horsepower of an engine.
> 
> 2. B HP is the measurement of an engine’s power without any power losses, while HP is BHP less the power losses.
> 
> ...





KamelReds said:


> HP is exactly what you think it is, horse power. It's just a unit of measurement.
> 
> BHP = Brake Horse Power - it's the measurement of the power taken directly at the crank, before the losses of the drive line is figured in.
> 
> ...


:beer:


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

d_98se said:


> I also wanted to know the answer to this particular question and also whether it was possible to over rev a formula one engine by quickly selecting downshifts while arriving at a corner as asked by someone on this site.


I also forgot about the 458 and from what I remember the you can press the downshift paddle early and when the car knows the speed is slow enough it will shift at the perfect moment.


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

*Question*: Is it possible to overheat pads by braking so hard that the pedal feel becomes soft and bleeding the brake fluid does nothing?


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

C4 A6 said:


> *Question*: Is it possible to overheat pads by braking so hard that the pedal feel becomes soft and bleeding the brake fluid does nothing?


It is possible to boil brake fluid, giving a spongy feel, but proper feel should return upon cooling. It is also possible for certain types of brake fluid to churn, making air bubbles part of the mix, making it lose it's ability to push pistons out properly.


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## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

C4 A6 said:


> *Question*: Is it possible to overheat pads by braking so hard that the pedal feel becomes soft and bleeding the brake fluid does nothing?



Er...yes and no.

You can overheat the pads and experience brake fade. You push the pedal like usual but the car doesn't stop as it should.

You can overheat the fluid and boil it and that results in a spongy pedal. You push the pedal and it feels soft and spongy, etc, and the car doesn't stop as it should.

In both cases bleeding isn't going to make a difference except that in the latter it may be replacing wet fluid with fresh and raising the boiling point for future use. Also, the second one may not be directly because of the pads overheating. You could have great pads that can take the heat, yet still end up with enough heat in the fluid to cause boiling of the fluid if it is in poor condition and you're working the brake system very hard. Then you'd have pads that can stop the car but compressible air in the hydraulic fluid stopping your push of the pedal from causing the pads to squeeze the rotors properly.

Edit: as Barry said, in both cases normal feel returns when everything cools down. So if you're asking a question about something you're dealing with on your car, it's likely there is air in the system due to a problem or incorrect/incomplete bleeding. Or a brake line has failed or a rubber line has developed a bubble.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Roadkilled78 said:


> Er...yes and no.
> 
> You can overheat the pads and experience brake fade. You push the pedal like usual but the car doesn't stop as it should.
> 
> ...


Your last point is a very good one. Have someone put their fingers around the individual rubber brake lines to see if they expand when you apply the brakes. If they do, then the hydraulic pressure is being lost, making your brakes ineffective.

Also, brake fluid is hygroscopic. It will pick up moisture. That moisture will collect in the lowest part of the system as water in the brake pistons. When the system overheats the water turns to steam, which can condense, leaving air bubbles behind.

Word to the wise. Change your brake fluid every two years to purge any water in the system to prevent corrosion, as water contains oxygen and is not your car's friend.


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## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

To add, some brake pad compounds are not intended for very high heat applications and will glaze over when subjected to serious braking events. This will also result in "no brakes" that bleeding will not improve. The glaze, a sort of melted brake pad glass, must be worn off with gentle braking.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

It can also easily be sand-blasted off, leaving a nice aggressive surface underneath. Braking is all about heat dissipation. If drum brakes did a better job of getting rid of heat, disc brakes would never have come about. If I remember correctly, Porsche was very slow to switch to disc brakes as their drums performed better than disc of the period.


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## KahviVW (Feb 26, 2009)

Here's my daft question: Can the wheel alignment be slightly altered by new tires (assuming they are properly balanced and mounted)? Or was it off before and I just didn't notice... :facepalm:


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

KahviVW said:


> Here's my daft question: Can the wheel alignment be slightly altered by new tires (assuming they are properly balanced and mounted)? Or was it off before and I just didn't notice... :facepalm:


Wheel alignment only comes about when there is no movement (other than rotational) in the individual wear parts. A strong mechanical link is required through all the related parts. Tires can not exert enough force, on their own, to change the alignment.

However, the "road force" or the tendency to pull in one direction or another, can easily make a car pull with new tires. Many tire shops have machines that calculate this force and tells you where to place that tire on a car. I've had amazing results using that procedure with my old cars.


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

Very informative answers, thanks everyone! In response to atomicalex, if my brakes glazed over, would that lead to a semi-spongy pedal feel?


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## GTIDUBThee (Aug 12, 2006)

i had an old mopar head explain this to me a few years ago but completely forgot what he said and its bugging the crap out me for some reason again. Every now and again ill watch some espn drag racing.......top fuel, funny car,...ect.....Anyway every time i see a race where the the car drops a cylinder or two the tires break loose....why do the tires break loose if they are running on less cylinders....thanks


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## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

GTIDUBThee said:


> i had an old mopar head explain this to me a few years ago but completely forgot what he said and its bugging the crap out me for some reason again. Every now and again ill watch some espn drag racing.......top fuel, funny car,...ect.....Anyway every time i see a race where the the car drops a cylinder or two the tires break loose....why do the tires break loose if they are running on less cylinders....thanks


A dropped cylinder probably throws some oil out on the track/tires.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

C4 A6 said:


> if my brakes glazed over, would that lead to a semi-spongy pedal feel?


I understand what you're saying, but your pads will never make your brake pedal feel spongy. Pads don't compress. (* at least, not enough to feel) 

You might have to push the brake pedal more/harder to get the stopping power you desire, and that may make you think the pedal is spongy because you're not getting the response you expect.


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## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

C4 A6 said:


> Very informative answers, thanks everyone! In response to atomicalex, if my brakes glazed over, would that lead to a semi-spongy pedal feel?





Surf Green said:


> I understand what you're saying, but your pads will never make your brake pedal feel spongy. Pads don't compress. (* at least, not enough to feel)
> 
> You might have to push the brake pedal more/harder to get the stopping power you desire, and that may make you think the pedal is spongy because you're not getting the response you expect.


Thank you for taking that one for me.  Spot on.


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## ktk (Jun 29, 2009)

BRealistic said:


> A dropped cylinder probably throws some oil out on the track/tires.


It is more likely that dropping a cylinder causes uneven torque spikes in the driveline shocking the tires and causing them to break loose. Once they are loose with the power they are making they will stay loose until the driver lets off.


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## ktk (Jun 29, 2009)

C4 A6 said:


> *Question*: Is it possible to overheat pads by braking so hard that the pedal feel becomes soft and bleeding the brake fluid does nothing?


As an avid track day enthusiast I have seen more than the normal share of brake overheating issues. The answer to this question lies in understanding the types of brake overheating:

1) Fluid fade/Boil - if too much heat gets into the brake fluid it will boil, introducing air bubbles in the lines. Air bubbles, unlike fluid, are compressible. You press the brake, bubbles gets compressed, brakes don't do much, pedal feels spongy and in the worst cases brakes will barely work at all.

2) Pad fade - brake pads have an optimum temperature range within which they are designed to produce a certain coefficient of friction. In normal operation, a brake pad is designed to transfer a thin layer of pad material onto the rotor and it is the friction between pad and this transfer layer that generates the braking (not pad on blank metal rotor like one would think). A thin transfer layer is critical for proper brake operation, and that is what "pad bedding" or "pad break-in" is meant to do.

The problem comes when you take pads beyond their upper operating temperature limit. The pad will start to decompose at a much higher rate, often depositing large uneven amounts of pad material onto the rotor, glazing the surface of a rotor. This rapid uncontrolled transfer of pad material leads to an uneven transfer layer which gives the dreaded "warped rotor wobble" many are familiar with. Rotors themselves don't warp easily even under the most extreme racing conditions. In that sense warped rotors is a bit of a myth. Most cases of "warped rotors" can be attributed to an uneven transfer layer. 

From a drivers perspective, pad fade doesn't feel like a spongy pedal. It usually feels like the brakes aren't grabbing as hard as they should for a given pedal pressure and the reason is their coefficient of friction drops off sharply as the temperature exceeds the operating limit of the pad. Eventually you will start to get that brake wobble feel through the pedal (rear brakes) and/or steering wheel (front brakes) and that is the ultimate sign of cooked pads.

Bleeding the lines won't solve the problem of uneven transfer layer or cooked pads. New brake fluid will help increase resistance to fluid boil for next time you are driving. Fresh brake fluid always starts with a high "dry" boiling point that drops over time as the hygroscopic fluid absorbs moisture that brings the boiling point down to a lower "wet" boiling point.

To fix brakes that have seen pad overheating, sanding down the rotors to remove the transfer layer and then rebedding the brakes in again with new pads will work most of the time on street driven cars. Failing that new rotors and pads are the last resort.

On cars that see high brake temps often (like track driven cars), high temperature brake fluid (like Motul RBF 600) and a Titanium or stainless steel shim behind the brake pad is often adequate to prevent fluid boil. Titanium and stainless steel are relatively poor conductors of heat and act like a insulator to keep pad heat away from the pistons/caliper/fluid. Of course the pad heat must go somewhere and such a setup might need brake cooling ducts that force ram air directly onto the caliper and rotor vanes to keep pad temperatures down.


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

Great guys! Thanks for the answers again :thumbup:


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

Surf Green said:


> I understand what you're saying, but your pads will never make your brake pedal feel spongy. Pads don't compress. (* at least, not enough to feel)
> 
> You might have to push the brake pedal more/harder to get the stopping power you desire, and that may make you think the pedal is spongy because you're not getting the response you expect.


Actually, there's an exception this this, which is pad taper. When the pads wear unevenly, it takes more pedal travel to push them flat against the rotors, making them feel spongy. I get this bad with my track pads, which is one reason I need to dump the front single-pistron calipers in favor of a 4-piston setup. 

The other factor I've experienced with glazed pads/rotors is that you lose friction, meaning you have to apply more pedal pressure to get the same braking response, which leads to more travel. The pads don't compress, but it still feels "spongy."


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

IMO, that condition would not make the pedal feel spongy, it just makes the brakes inefective. Spongy inplies that you hit the brakes and you feel a detached feeling between what your foot is feeling and what you're doing.

I equate it to stepping on a piece of high density foam. You feel the give with a little bit of push-back you normally don't feel. It's more a case of compressibility, or not.


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## l5gcw0b (Mar 3, 2000)

GTIDUBThee said:


> i had an old mopar head explain this to me a few years ago but completely forgot what he said and its bugging the crap out me for some reason again. Every now and again ill watch some espn drag racing.......top fuel, funny car,...ect.....Anyway every time i see a race where the the car drops a cylinder or two the tires break loose....why do the tires break loose if they are running on less cylinders....thanks





BRealistic said:


> A dropped cylinder probably throws some oil out on the track/tires.





ktk said:


> It is more likely that dropping a cylinder causes uneven torque spikes in the driveline shocking the tires and causing them to break loose. Once they are loose with the power they are making they will stay loose until the driver lets off.


This is what i am thinking. Smoothing the pulses is important in motorcycle racing for this reason
(i.e. accelerating out of a turn).


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## A1pocketrocket (Jan 28, 2002)

l5gcw0b said:


> This is what i am thinking. Smoothing the pulses is important in motorcycle racing for this reason
> (i.e. accelerating out of a turn).


sort of, but backwards. the 'big bang' engines actually have better traction recovery because of the 'un-smooth' power delivery. the impulses come at odd durations and lenghts which makes the tire easier to recover in a slide than the constant 180 degree intervals.
http://www.motorcycledaily.com/2005/04/08april05_bigbang/


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## ktk (Jun 29, 2009)

A1pocketrocket said:


> sort of, but backwards. the 'big bang' engines actually have better traction recovery because of the 'un-smooth' power delivery. the impulses come at odd durations and lenghts which makes the tire easier to recover in a slide than the constant 180 degree intervals.
> http://www.motorcycledaily.com/2005/04/08april05_bigbang/


very cool :thumbup: I didn't know about the "big bang" engine vs tire grip theory. Well done sir! :beer:


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## afrost (Oct 30, 2002)

Question regarding my winter wheel and tire setup:

Last winter I put steelies on my golf that were starting to get a bit rusty. When I went to take them off they seemed sort of rusted to the hubs, and the hubs looked like hell from being exposed to the salt and grime all winter long. I had to work at the steelies a bit to even get them off.

In the long run is it worse for your car to use steelies with no hub caps in long winters with lots of salt on the road? Are hubs made out of metal that can develop rust problems or are they stainless? Is there something like anti-seize or similar that I should be using to keep the steelie from rusting to the hub? 

I was thinking that this year I will put some rust converter on the part of the steelies that makes contact with the hub and throw some ant-seize on there.....but if there is something else I should be doing let me know.


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

afrost said:


> Question regarding my winter wheel and tire setup:
> 
> Last winter I put steelies on my golf that were starting to get a bit rusty. When I went to take them off they seemed sort of rusted to the hubs, and the hubs looked like hell from being exposed to the salt and grime all winter long. I had to work at the steelies a bit to even get them off.
> 
> ...



Your wheel is sticking to the brake, not the hub, directly. Really, I wouldn't worry about it. But if it really bothers you, you could try some anti-seize. I wouldn't use anything that hardens though (POR-15, etc) as you can lose the torque load on your studs if it flakes off from beneath the wheel.


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## A1pocketrocket (Jan 28, 2002)

you could always move to California and do away with needing 'winter wheels'


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## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

Yeah...no rust converter...just clean it up and put anti-sieze on if you want. I find that taking a rubber mallet to the wheels to knock them loose is part of my winter routine, and that's with aluminum wheels. Heck one or two would stick in the few weeks of summer driving between autocrosses sometimes.


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## afrost (Oct 30, 2002)

Good to know thanks, I wanted to make sure I wasn't letting something go without properly maintaining it :thumbup:


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

afrost said:


> Question regarding my winter wheel and tire setup:


I use this stuff:









I just smear it on the face of the hub, and on the mounting face of the wheel before I bolt them up. Just be sure not to get any on the threaded studs, or in the lug holes for those of us with lug bolts.

I hate having to kick my wheels off each season. I look like a jackass laying in the dirt kicking my wheels as hard as I can. The anti-seize helps a lot, but it can still stick once in a while (though not nearly as bad as without it).


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## freedomweasel (Apr 15, 2010)

I recently bought my first car with a manual transmission, and I have two questions about it.

1. Parking, leave it in a gear (which?) or neutral? The handbrake works, and I use it either way, I haven't noticed any rolling when parked in first or neutral. It has a safety lock-out so I can't start the car without my foot on the clutch, but everyone I've asked has had a different answer. I assume it doesn't really matter, but figured I'd ask.

2. When I was learning to drive a manual years and years ago, I was told never to downshift into first unless I was at a complete stop. Is this actually true? Obviously don't just drop it into first without rev-matching or if I'm cruising at 40mph or something, but otherwise I assume if it's done right, it's fine, and this is just a case of my parents teaching what they were taught decades ago.


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

freedomweasel said:


> 1. Parking, leave it in a gear (which?) or neutral? It has a safety lock-out so I can't start it without my foot on the clutch, but everyone I've asked has had a different answer. I assume it doesn't really matter, but figured I'd ask.


I leave my car in 2nd gear when I park, and I don't use the parking brake if it's on a level surface.





freedomweasel said:


> 2. When I was learning to drive a manual years and years ago, I was told never to downshift into first unless I was at a complete stop. Is this actually true? Obviously don't just drop it into first without rev-matching or if I'm cruising at 40mph or something, but otherwise I assume if it's done right, it's fine, and this is just a case of my parents teaching what they were taught decades ago.


Right, say you're getting off the highway in 5th or 6th gear, and then have to drive at 20 mph. You've got to downshift, and there is no reason to come to a complete stop to do so.


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## freedomweasel (Apr 15, 2010)

sjt1985 said:


> I leave my car in 2nd gear when I park, and I don't use the parking brake if it's on a level surface.


Any reason for 2nd in particular?


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

freedomweasel said:


> Any reason for 2nd in particular?


Habit - I know some people use 1st also. a lower gear means less chance of the car rolling away on you :laugh:


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

freedomweasel said:


> Any reason for 2nd in particular?


And any reason for not using the parking brake? 

I always park it in 1st, and pull the parking brake. Always and forever.


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

MrMook said:


> And any reason for not using the parking brake?


Again, habit. If I'm not on a hill - it's not likely that the car will move on it's own if it's in gear.


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

MrMook said:


> Just be sure not to get any on the threaded studs, or in the lug holes for those of us with lug bolts.


There's nothing wrong with anti-seize on Studs, or Lug Bolts that are properly torqued; it's a myth.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Lieutenant Dan said:


> There's nothing wrong with anti-seize on Studs, or Lug Bolts that are properly torqued; it's a myth.


You may be right. I had always been told torque readings would be more accurate with clean, dry bolts, but quick google search seems to confirm your wisdom. :beer:


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

freedomweasel said:


> 2. When I was learning to drive a manual years and years ago, I was told never to downshift into first unless I was at a complete stop. Is this actually true? Obviously don't just drop it into first without rev-matching or if I'm cruising at 40mph or something, but otherwise I assume if it's done right, it's fine, and this is just a case of my parents teaching what they were taught decades ago.


Downshifting to first at anything over about 5 mph tends to be very hard on the syncros. Some transmissions tolerate in better than others. I'll double clutch if I really need to get it into first at 15 mph, which is rare anyway. Sometimes I'll double clutch back to first when it's really cold out as well.


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## JeffIsLax (Mar 26, 2005)

sjt1985 said:


> Right, say you're getting off the highway in 5th or 6th gear, and then have to drive at 20 mph. You've got to downshift, and there is no reason to come to a complete stop to do so.


Why go into first in that situation? The only time I ever shift into first is if I know that choosing second will bring my engine within a couple hundred rpm of idle, and 15-20mph puts most transmissions near 2000rpm. Most production cars should have enough power at 2k to cruise around comfortably.


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

freedomweasel said:


> When I was learning to drive a manual years and years ago, I was told never to downshift *into first* unless I was at a complete stop.


oops didn't see that part. I still downshift into first if I'm really moving slow (no harm in it), but I think the intent is to keep people from shifting into 1st while travelling at 30 mph...


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

sjt1985 said:


> oops didn't see that part. I still downshift into first if I'm really moving slow (no harm in it), but I think the intent is to keep people from shifting into 1st while travelling at 30 mph...


It will snick right in if you double-clutch and rev match. You will have to rev it to the moon but there will be absolutely no resistance or shift shock if you want to shift to 1st at 30 MPH and 7000+ RPM.

(At least there wasn't in my Civic the couple of times I tried it.)


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## ktk (Jun 29, 2009)

freedomweasel said:


> I recently bought my first car with a manual transmission, and I have two questions about it.
> 
> 1. Parking, leave it in a gear (which?) or neutral? The handbrake works, and I use it either way, I haven't noticed any rolling when parked in first or neutral. It has a safety lock-out so I can't start the car without my foot on the clutch, but everyone I've asked has had a different answer. I assume it doesn't really matter, but figured I'd ask.


Doesn't really matter which gear you leave it in but it's a good habit to get into. If for whatever reason your handbrake slips/fails or you're parked on a steep slope, having the car in gear will prevent it from moving. 1st is most common from what I've seen, but it doesn't really make a big difference. The exception to this rule is if you are trailering a manual car. Leaving it in gear can chip gear teeth and damage trans internals as the car rocks back and forth very slightly as it is being transported.



freedomweasel said:


> 2. When I was learning to drive a manual years and years ago, I was told never to downshift into first unless I was at a complete stop. Is this actually true? Obviously don't just drop it into first without rev-matching or if I'm cruising at 40mph or something, but otherwise I assume if it's done right, it's fine, and this is just a case of my parents teaching what they were taught decades ago.


You are right, there is no technical reason why it can't be done. As others have stated a revmatch and/or double clutch will get you into first if your speed is low enough but there is really no situation in any kind of driving where you would have to do this. If a car is rolling even at a crawling pace 2nd gear should be usable just fine. At parking lot speeds sub 5mph revmatching into 1st is fine for low speed maneuvering. On the road? Probably would advise against it for simple clutch, syncro, and passenger comfort reasons.


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## Bias_Ply (Feb 6, 2010)

ktk said:


> Doesn't really matter which gear you leave it in but it's a good habit to get into.


if you leave your car in a high gear (4th, 5th, etc) and the parking brake fails, your car is not going to be held in place nearly as securely as in first or reverse.


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## freedomweasel (Apr 15, 2010)

Awesome, thanks for all the help everyone. :thumbup::beer:


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## SVTDanny (Aug 8, 2005)

Pull the handbrake, let off the foot brake, and then slide it into gear if you're going to park the car in gear. This lets the handbrake hold the weight of the car instead of your driveline.


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## dunhamjr (May 21, 2002)

afrost said:


> Question regarding my winter wheel and tire setup:
> 
> Last winter I put steelies on my golf that were starting to get a bit rusty. When I went to take them off they seemed sort of rusted to the hubs, and the hubs looked like hell from being exposed to the salt and grime all winter long. I had to work at the steelies a bit to even get them off.
> 
> ...


you can just sand/clean the surface rust off and then put some sort of protectant on it. i have gone as simple as just applying a layer of high-temp grease on the hub, so that my adapters don't 'rust weld' themselves in place.


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## dunhamjr (May 21, 2002)

djsheijkdfj said:


> Pull the handbrake, let off the foot brake, and then slide it into gear if you're going to park the car in gear. This lets the handbrake hold the weight of the car instead of your driveline.


i have tried to explain this process 10 plus times... even while sitting in the car... to my wife, and i am still not sure she understands it.


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## AZGolf (Jun 6, 2000)

How long can you do donuts in your living room before you get carbon monoxide poisoning? Semi-serious question - I know CO builds up quickly, especially from a V8 at high power output.


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## AZGolf (Jun 6, 2000)

Bias_Ply said:


> if you leave your car in a high gear (4th, 5th, etc) and the parking brake fails, your car is not going to be held in place nearly as securely as in first or reverse.


I proved this one out in my own driveway by putting my car on the incline in various gears. In 1st or reverse, the car held and I could not make it budge. In 2nd gear, if I pushed on the car I could eventually make it move, little by little. In 3rd and up, the car would slide down the driveway all on its own.


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

AZGolf said:


> How long can you do donuts in your living room before you get carbon monoxide poisoning? Semi-serious question - I know CO builds up quickly, especially from a V8 at high power output.


Pretty quickly if theres little to no real ventilation, especially a big V8 with no Cats at WOT. A warmed up, idling car's undiluted exhaust in the pipe is around 7000ppm.

If the room reaches that ppm it would only take ~2 minutes to begin having symptoms like severe headache and dizziness. At that ppm it would only take at most 20 minutes to result in death. ~13000ppm results in being unconscious in about 2 breaths.


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

Haha, I have no idea. That video is great though.


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## jettafan[atic] (Dec 2, 2008)

I wanted to throw a little bit more info out there about a couple of the current discussions but didnt feel liek digging up the quotes. 

1: Downshifting into first is generally unnecessary as 2nd in most cars is geared low enough to be fine at very slow speeds. The only reason it would really be frowned upon is because most cars don't have a synchro for first gear but again, if you rev match you're fine.

2. When you park your car in gear you're relying on the compression in the engine to hold the car. In a 4 banger you are relying on the pressure of one cylinder to prevent the car from rolling so leaving it in the lowest possible gear is the best thing you could do (aside from applying the parking brake of course.) Also if a manual car has a keyless start mechanism on it and it is left in gear it _will_ drive away when it is started. I remember a thread on here a while ago about a new Mustang with an aftermarket keyless start installed that was totalled when a dealership employee left it in gear and well... you can imagine how the rest goes.


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## afrost (Oct 30, 2002)

Keyless start on a manual seems like a giant :facepalm: I understand that if you are hauling around young kids in a super cold climate keyless start can be nice to warm the car up (while wasting gas).....but other than that I don't see why you would want it.


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## 302W (Jul 24, 2004)

jettafan[atic] said:


> The only reason it would really be frowned upon is because most cars don't have a synchro for first gear but again, *if you rev match you're fine*.


Except in AWD vehicles?


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## jettafan[atic] (Dec 2, 2008)

302W said:


> Except in AWD vehicles?


You'll have to excuse me but I'm just starting to learn about the AWD world and how all those different systems work together. What would be different about needing to rev match a downshift to first in an all wheel drive car?


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## A1pocketrocket (Jan 28, 2002)

jettafan[atic] said:


> You'll have to excuse me but I'm just starting to learn about the AWD world and how all those different systems work together. What would be different about needing to rev match a downshift to first in an all wheel drive car?


nothing, transmission-wise. I too, await his explanation.


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## 302W (Jul 24, 2004)

Oh I don't have an explanation, I was asking. I've just heard many times that you should never downshift into first in AWD vehicles and I'm unsure why.


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## jettafan[atic] (Dec 2, 2008)

Oh gotcha, I can't think of why that would be either except the driveline shock could damage the shims in the differential/transfer case.


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## Broduski (Nov 19, 2008)

How bad is it to put new pads on the brakes if the rotors have high spots? Will it be ok if I just get the pads seated properly? Or will I have to get new rotors/old ones resurfaced?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

16v_43v3r said:


> How bad is it to put new pads on the brakes if the rotors have high spots? Will it be ok if I just get the pads seated properly? Or will I have to get new rotors/old ones resurfaced?


Try simply removing the built up pad material that's making you think you have high spots. Just sand them right in the car. The coarser the sandpaper the better.


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## Fantomasz (Aug 15, 2001)

barry2952 said:


> With all the tires on all the vehicles, where is the tire dust?




do You see 2 black spots on each side of spine?
thats black dust from tires


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## JeffIsLax (Mar 26, 2005)

This is only borderline applicable to the question, and it isn't really an answer but here goes. This past February, it iced really bad, so I decided figured that I would use the autostick on my Jeep (AWD) so that I could have more control over the car. Well, I was pulling up to a stop light and downshifted through the range to use some engine braking instead of locking up the tires with the brakes. When I got to the shift from second to first, all four wheels locked up and the back end started coming around. I was able to keep it between the lines, and luckily there was nobody around so I didn't do any damage.

Maybe since the gearing is so short on first gear and all four wheels are able to turn the engine, AWD systems are more sensitive to the 2-1 downshift. With better traction, I probably wouldn't have lost control, but there would have been quite a bit of driveline shock.


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## Broduski (Nov 19, 2008)

I should have been more clear, My mistake. I was talking about grooves like this. when if you run your finger or nail from the inside to the outside, You can feel all the little ridges from uneven wear.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

16v_43v3r said:


> I should have been more clear, My mistake. I was talking about grooves like this. when if you run your finger or nail from the inside to the outside, You can feel all the little ridges from uneven wear.


Those are actually not a problem. The new pads will either wear the ridges smooth or the pad will quickly conform to the rotor. It looks pretty clear that grooves are regular and cause by the drilling. It's a small amount, but those grooves offer more surface area once the new pads wear in.

One question. Is the other side the same way?


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## 302W (Jul 24, 2004)

Fantomasz said:


> do You see 2 black spots on each side of spine?
> thats black dust from tires


I had a physics teacher go into this once. This was a while ago, but I think I'm remembering this right. He said that there was a point in time, in the early phases of roads and cars, when it was thought that tire particles would keep accumulating on pavement and create a mess. It turned out that there were microbes that ate the rubber, hence why we don't see much tire residue on the streets.


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## Fantomasz (Aug 15, 2001)

How thief steal a car with immobilizer? You can break a door lock or ignition switch but how they are able to start engine on car with immobilizer without key?


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## Broduski (Nov 19, 2008)

barry2952 said:


> One question. Is the other side the same way?


Not quite sure, havent gotten the shield off yet. But thanks alot for the answer. Glad I don't have to buy new rotors. :thumbup: One more brakes question, How to you seat brake pads and why is it so important to seat organic brake pads? parks desk woman said this and I wasn't quite sure why.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

16v_43v3r said:


> Not quite sure, havent gotten the shield off yet. But thanks alot for the answer. Glad I don't have to buy new rotors. :thumbup: One more brakes question, How to you seat brake pads and why is it so important to seat organic brake pads? parks desk woman said this and I wasn't quite sure why.


By seating them they mean that you should brake lightly so as not to glaze the pads. Understand that the wavy surface, or even a smooth surface will require repeated stops before the pad is making full contact. If you brake too hard you will leave excess material on the rotors and burn the initial contact area of the pad, which is called glaze, lowering the coefficient of drag.


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## EUROTHRASH (Oct 25, 2007)

*Air fuel ratio question.*

Okay SO, I have a 1990 GLI with a vr6 swap out of a 98 GLX. The issue I'm having, is, I'm running pretty rich (or at least I think I am) The gentleman who originally did the swap, deleted the secondary air, and possibly an O2 sensor. Because of this, my car doesn't reach closed loop and because of the air/fuel I have to replace my cat. My question is this: Is there a way I can adjust the ratio, without adding the sec. air pump? I would prefer to not replace another cat :screwy:.


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## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

Lets say you drove your car into a chamber with no oxygen. Just some other gas (100% helium, for example)

Would your car still run? instead of an air/fuel mixture, would your engine still be able to run with a helium/fuel mixture?


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

No.


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## samc (Jan 15, 2002)

RacerrRex said:


> Lets say you drove your car into a chamber with no oxygen. Just some other gas (100% helium, for example)
> 
> Would your car still run? instead of an air/fuel mixture, would your engine still be able to run with a helium/fuel mixture?


Helium is not flamable and so would not create the explosion you need to run a cylinder.


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## Mr. Clarkson (Jul 24, 2008)

RacerrRex said:


> Lets say you drove your car into a chamber with no oxygen. Just some other gas (100% helium, for example)
> 
> Would your car still run? instead of an air/fuel mixture, would your engine still be able to run with a helium/fuel mixture?


:facepalm:

I drove my car into outer space one time, engine totally kept working. Lungs did too. It was awesome.


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

RacerrRex said:


> Lets say you drove your car into a chamber with no oxygen. Just some other gas (100% helium, for example)
> 
> Would your car still run? instead of an air/fuel mixture, would your engine still be able to run with a helium/fuel mixture?


Chemistry, learn it.


----------



## Bognostraclum (Jun 16, 2010)

barry2952 said:


> Chemistry, learn it.


Come on, not everyone knows chemistry. It's an odd question, but a valid one imho.


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Bognostraclum said:


> Come on, not everyone knows chemistry. It's an odd question, but a valid one imho.


No? Seriously?


----------



## A1pocketrocket (Jan 28, 2002)

302W said:


> Oh I don't have an explanation, I was asking. I've just heard many times that you should never downshift into first in AWD vehicles and I'm unsure why.


well thats what this thread is for, right? not spouting off more nonsense, but giving out correct information.


----------



## 302W (Jul 24, 2004)

Yessir


----------



## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

samc said:


> Helium is not flamable and so would not create the explosion you need to run a cylinder.


Oxygen isn't flammable either, but it's necessary for combustion.


----------



## Bognostraclum (Jun 16, 2010)

barry2952 said:


> No? Seriously?


Yup!  Not everyone has a profound knowledge of chemistry. Not everyone knows combustion with Fluorine is possible for example. Also, it's difficult to say where equilibria lie.

This is the thread for "dumb" questions, i don't see why people with no knowledge of a certain science can't ask questions about it?


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

I apologize that I was incredulous that someone wouldn't know that oxygen was necessary for combustion in an internal combustion engine. 

You'll note that I am hardly the only one that reacted the same way.


----------



## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

IJM said:


> Oxygen isn't flammable either, but it's necessary for combustion.


Actually helium is an INERT gas along with Argon and others. It means that it's very happy with the number of electrons it has and won't react with other elements. Oxygen on the other hand is readily available and common in combustion.

Edit:

Check out this cool periodic table. 










The only elements that are stable as a gas at room temp are: Hydrogen, Nitrogen, Oxygen, Flourine, Chlorine, and the Inert gasses.


----------



## Bognostraclum (Jun 16, 2010)

barry2952 said:


> I apologize that I was incredulous that someone wouldn't know that oxygen was necessary for combustion in an internal combustion engine.
> 
> You'll note that I am hardly the only one that reacted the same way.


Indeed, you were not the only one, and i apologize if you feel singled out by me. I was just quoting the last person. 

And I admit, it was a strange question.


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

*FV-QR*

This isn't' the thread to make people feel afraid of asking those questions that they've been afraid to ask.

Not everyone comes from the womb with an innate knowledge and understanding of everything about cars, and how they work. Some of us actually had to to start from scratch.


----------



## TetsuoShima (Nov 30, 2008)

why do cars have wheels


----------



## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

TetsuoShima said:


> why do cars have wheels


:laugh:


----------



## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

You know this thread has died when i get made fun of for asking a question that i was always afraid to ask :thumbdown:  :facepalm:


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

RacerrRex said:


> You know this thread has died when i get made fun of for asking a question that i was always afraid to ask :thumbdown:  :facepalm:


I'm sorry, but aren't you the same guy that came on TCL to ask what color you should repaint your V-6 Mustang because your mommy thinks she pays higher insurance premiums because it's red?

I took that as a troll post, as did I this one. I didn't thing that you were anything but a troll and answered accordingly.

If you are serious about not knowing I might suggest that Google becomes your friend.


----------



## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

sjt1985 said:


> Actually helium is an INERT gas along with Argon and others. It means that it's very happy with the number of electrons it has and won't react with other elements.


Yeah, I know. It's one of the noble gases. I was pointing out that any environment with a flammable gas but no oxygen would not support combusion.


----------



## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

barry2952 said:


> I'm sorry, but aren't you the same guy that came on TCL to ask what color you should repaint your V-6 Mustang because your mommy thinks she pays higher insurance premiums because it's red?
> 
> I took that as a troll post, as did I this one. I didn't thing that you were anything but a troll and answered accordingly.
> 
> If you are serious about not knowing I might suggest that Google becomes your friend.


What does my mom wanting me to paint my car have anything to do with the question i asked in this thread? :screwy:

Are you saying youre gonna keep stalking me around tcl and act like every single post i make is a "troll" post?


----------



## greywolf (Apr 8, 2011)

does direct injection increase or decrease MPGs

why dont accords and camrys have direct injection?


----------



## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

greywolf said:


> does direct injection increase or decrease MPGs


It's more efficient so it increases MPG's




> why dont accords and camrys have direct injection?


Because it's expensive, complicated and they still havent worked out all the bugs yet.


----------



## greywolf (Apr 8, 2011)

mellbergVWfan said:


> It's more efficient so it increases MPG's
> 
> 
> 
> ...


how come the ES350, which uses the same engine as the camry but with direct injection get lower MPG numbers?


----------



## Mr. Clarkson (Jul 24, 2008)

greywolf said:


> how come the ES350, which uses the same engine as the camry but with direct injection get lower MPG numbers?


More weight? Worse aerodynamics? Different tires?


----------



## PDong (Oct 26, 2004)

Mr. Clarkson said:


> More weight? Worse aerodynamics? Different tires?


And gear ratios, engine programming, and a hundred other small factors.


----------



## ryan mills (May 3, 2002)

greywolf said:


> does direct injection increase or decrease MPGs
> 
> why dont accords and camrys have direct injection?


It increases it, but adds complexity and cost, probably the main reasons it's not in those cars. I also don't think it makes THAT much of a difference on a NA engine.


----------



## d_98se (Jun 19, 2007)

*Regaining Control After Loss Of Traction.*

What is the best way to recover a slide in a high powered "Corvette" when all drivers aides are off and you're about to go ham on the front passenger door of a Dodge SRT-8?

How is staying in the throttle any helpful? 

Wouldn't staying on the throttle keep the wheels spinning even faster due to fact that they are already spinning and all you're doing is adding wood to the fire?

Why are Corvettes so squirrely under hard acceleration?

Is this a by product of the suspension design or is it that the tires don't know what to do with all that torque when its dumped on it?

Can you completely design "squirreyl behavior on acceleration" out of a vehicle without using traction control?

Why are Corvettes scary at the limit and before i get blasted I've read about this online.


----------



## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

Where did the tuner styling trend of black bumpers/hoods/trunks come from, and what is it supposed to symbolize?


----------



## thetopdog (Nov 11, 2008)

d_98se said:


> What is the best way to recover a slide in a high powered "Corvette" when all drivers aides are off and you're about to go ham on the front passenger door of a Dodge SRT-8?
> 
> How is staying in the throttle any helpful?
> 
> ...


Corvettes are no more squirrely than any other high-powered RWD car under hard acceleration. I've had mine for over 4 years and I have never had a problem with the rear breaking loose while accelerating, even in the winter on summer tires (as long as it's dry outside)

I push my car pretty hard on the street, but I have yet to get myself into a situation where I felt like the car was exhibiting scary behavior, if anything the car has saved my ass on a number of occasions


----------



## thetopdog (Nov 11, 2008)

BRealistic said:


> Where did the tuner styling trend of black bumpers/hoods/trunks come from, and what is it supposed to symbolize?


Is this a serious question? The hoods and trunklids aren't "black" they're carbon fiber (the real ones anyway)


----------



## J-Tim (May 26, 2000)

thetopdog said:


> Is this a serious question? The hoods and trunklids aren't "black" they're carbon fiber (the real ones anyway)


Not entirely true.

Black hoods came from racing cars and from aircrafts prior to that to reduce glare from the sun.


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

d_98se said:


> What is the best way to recover a slide in a high powered "Corvette" when all drivers aides are off and you're about to go ham on the front passenger door of a Dodge SRT-8?
> 
> How is staying in the throttle any helpful?
> 
> ...


Are you talking about Wheel Hop?


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

d_98se said:


> Wouldn't staying on the throttle keep the wheels spinning even faster due to fact that they are already spinning and all you're doing is adding wood to the fire?


Getting OFF the throttle just throws all your weight to the front wheels, unweights the rear ones, and makes the slide worse.

"Staying on the throttle" doesn't mean mashing it to the floor and making with the doriftos. It means applying power, and transferring weight to the rear wheels, so you can get some traction back there.

This can be expanded on a lot, depending on the situation, oversteer/understeer, steering with the gas pedal, etc, but that's the basis of weight transfer, and it applies to every car.


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

We could probably have an entire forum devoted to weight transfer.....


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

RacerrRex said:


> You know this thread has died when i get made fun of for asking a question that i was always afraid to ask :thumbdown:  :facepalm:


It doesn't appear dead to me.


----------



## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

I've got two:

1. I use the Harbor Freight caliper tool (seems like everyone has one of them) to compress the pistons on the single-piston floating calipers that 95% of cars use. How does one compress the pistons in a 4- or 6-piston caliper where the tool wouldn't seem to fit? Do they make one specifically for fixed calipers?











2. Why do some cars still use single headlight setups (I'm looking at you, Ford) when dual provides vastly better lighting, especially the high beams? I can understand why Jeeps use them for aesthetic reasons, but most other applications have no "historical" application. What gives?

Example:

Single









Dual


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

A c-clamp against the old brake pad? Repeat for the other side?

I've never use a caliper tool for 'normal' cars, (except for the rear ones, but only because of the parking brake). Because the caliper floats, I've found that using a screwdriver to slowly pry the caliper back towards me is always sufficient to retract the piston. (All done while the caliper is still on the car) It's probably much more gentle than the hell a caliper goes through in normal operation.


----------



## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

barry2952 said:


> I apologize that I was incredulous that someone wouldn't know that oxygen was necessary for combustion in an internal combustion engine.


Oh, im sorry. I didnt realize that i wasnt allowed to ask a question about an internal combustion engine in this thread... not that this thread is for questions like that or anything, silly me. 

:facepalm:


----------



## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

Surf Green said:


> A c-clamp against the old brake pad? Repeat for the other side?
> 
> I've never use a caliper tool for 'normal' cars, (except for the rear ones, but only because of the parking brake). Because the caliper floats, I've found that using a screwdriver to slowly pry the caliper back towards me is always sufficient to retract the piston. (All done while the caliper is still on the car) It's probably much more gentle than the hell a caliper goes through in normal operation.


Relevant to this, i was taught in school that when pushing the piston(s) back in the caliper, you should loosen the bleeder screw so that the fluid doesnt overflow in the M/C.

But my recent job as a technician, my manager said to me that it doesnt matter because the fluid isnt going to harm anything in the engine...
Which is safer? Let it flow out through bleeder screw or let is overflow in master cylinder?


----------



## tip (Aug 8, 2008)

IJM said:


> 1. I use the Harbor Freight caliper tool (seems like everyone has one of them) to compress the pistons on the single-piston floating calipers that 95% of cars use. How does one compress the pistons in a 4- or 6-piston caliper where the tool wouldn't seem to fit? Do they make one specifically for fixed calipers?


To be honest, I just use a screwdriver or something and slowly press them in. For example, on a Touareg, I usually keep the old brake pad on and use that to pry against to compress the pistons.



RacerrRex said:


> Relevant to this, i was taught in school that when pushing the piston(s) back in the caliper, you should loosen the bleeder screw so that the fluid doesnt overflow in the M/C.
> 
> But my recent job as a technician, my manager said to me that it doesnt matter because the fluid isnt going to harm anything in the engine...
> Which is safer? Let it flow out through bleeder screw or let is overflow in master cylinder?


I was also taught this in school but in almost 10 years I've never had a problem just letting it go back into the MC. Most every tech I've seen does it this way, too. I do go very slowly, which I think helps. Just don't get any of that brake fluid on the paint.



Surf Green said:


> A c-clamp against the old brake pad? Repeat for the other side?
> 
> I've never use a caliper tool for 'normal' cars, (except for the rear ones, but only because of the parking brake). Because the caliper floats, I've found that using a screwdriver to slowly pry the caliper back towards me is always sufficient to retract the piston. (All done while the caliper is still on the car) It's probably much more gentle than the hell a caliper goes through in normal operation.


i agree 100% :thumbup:


----------



## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

If there's relatively fresh brake fluid in the system and there's plenty of head space in the reservior (usually the case in my car), I won't bother opening the bleed screw. My biggest concern would come from pusing back old and dirty fluid into the MC and having that grit that accumulates in the caliper over time bugger up the MC seals.


----------



## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

Engine temperature: is it taken from coolant or there's a separate sensor somewhere?


----------



## ShavedFace (Jul 28, 2006)

It's measured from the engine coolant typically. In say, a MKV Volkswagen with a 2.5 liter, there's a sensor that goes right into a part of the cooling system.


----------



## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

So it's taken from the coolant temp sensor (CTS), correct?


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

MightyDSM said:


> Engine temperature: is it taken from coolant or there's a separate sensor somewhere?


Air cooled car temperature gauges measure oil temperature.


----------



## Tripicana (Dec 17, 2004)

not if you have a cylinder head temp gage


----------



## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

how come when it gets real hot (105+) my car makes a loud high pitch squealing noise ??
sounds like its coming from the gas tank ... expanding gas, leak ??


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

skydive_007 said:


> how come when it gets real hot (105+) my car makes a loud high pitch squealing noise ??
> sounds like its coming from the gas tank ... expanding gas, leak ??


Spiders. Seriously. They build very solid nests in the vent tubes and block pressure relief. I believe one of the Japanese manufacturers just had a recall where they installed some kind of fine coil spring in the end of the hose to prevent spider infiltration.


----------



## silverzee (Aug 23, 2001)

On a FWD car with no LSD would a tire that has an extra 2 to 3/32 of tread depth screw up any driveline components? 

Replaced one front tire and it pulled so much I switched it to the back within 600 miles, although it still screws up the 3's handling from back there. May just buy four new tires after just 15,000 miles.


----------



## freedomweasel (Apr 15, 2010)

silverzee said:


> On a FWD car with no LSD would a tire that has an extra 2 to 3/32 of tread depth screw up any driveline components?
> 
> Replaced one front tire and it pulled so much I switched it to the back within 600 miles, although it still screws up the 3's handling from back there. May just buy four new tires after just 15,000 miles.


Why not get it shaved?


----------



## silverzee (Aug 23, 2001)

freedomweasel said:


> Why not get it shaved?


Hard to find a nearby place with a tire lathe.


----------



## EUROBORA8V (May 16, 2005)

Why cant we get this guy to take new photos in years??? 

A very rare and sick car. But we can have good pictures! 



Sir UNBANNED_GERBIL M.B. said:


> BAM
> 
> I love my Avant too. I have never posted pics here before of it. So I got some pro shots taken that are not by iPhone  :laugh:


----------



## AZGolf (Jun 6, 2000)

silverzee said:


> On a FWD car with no LSD would a tire that has an extra 2 to 3/32 of tread depth screw up any driveline components?
> 
> Replaced one front tire and it pulled so much I switched it to the back within 600 miles, although it still screws up the 3's handling from back there. May just buy four new tires after just 15,000 miles.


If you have stability control, it could throw the calibration off, because it believes one wheel is going faster than the others. Of course, that would only be relevant once the stability control kicks in, but generally if you've gotten yourself to that point to begin with, you already need all the help you can get. Maybe put the tallest tire on the right front position and drive in CCW circles at the limit to scrub off some rubber?


----------



## freedomweasel (Apr 15, 2010)

When a car spins/goes off/etc, during a race and the driver has trouble getting the car into first, or reverse.. what is going on that makes it hard to find the gear? These are all cars with sequential gear boxes, often with paddle shifters, so it's not a case of the driver physically moving the gear shift around, it's electrical/mechanical somewhere else. 

What's going on?


----------



## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

ryan mills said:


> It increases it, but adds complexity and cost, probably the main reasons it's not in those cars. I also don't think it makes THAT much of a difference on a NA engine.


It does. It has the ability to run at almost 60:1 Air fuel ratio aka super lean mode when cruising in the proper conditions. There can be FSI N/A engines as well, so I don't know what you mean by not much of a difference


----------



## A1pocketrocket (Jan 28, 2002)

freedomweasel said:


> When a car spins/goes off/etc, during a race and the driver has trouble getting the car into first, or reverse.. what is going on that makes it hard to find the gear? These are all cars with sequential gear boxes, often with paddle shifters, so it's not a case of the driver physically moving the gear shift around, it's electrical/mechanical somewhere else.
> 
> What's going on?


sequential gearboxes do not go from 5th to 1st easily. you have to go through each gear to get to the next. you could not shift from 2nd to 4th if you wanted to without going through 3rd. sometimes its hard to go through the gears at a dead stop.


----------



## SVTDanny (Aug 8, 2005)

RacerrRex said:


> Relevant to this, i was taught in school that when pushing the piston(s) back in the caliper, you should loosen the bleeder screw so that the fluid doesnt overflow in the M/C.
> 
> But my recent job as a technician, my manager said to me that it doesnt matter because the fluid isnt going to harm anything in the engine...
> Which is safer? Let it flow out through bleeder screw or let is overflow in master cylinder?


I'd rather not push dirty fluid back through the lines, especially on cars with ABS - but truthfully there's is probably very little chance of it hurting anything.


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

I can't figure out what these caps are for on the side-exit exhaust. Why block them off? They were flush so no air could travel out of the pipes, and not spaced like an adjustable restrictor plate might be.


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

They can be uncapped for full flow and capped to push the exhaust through the mufflers. Most are for show, not for go. I think it's a pretty silly look, myself.:thumbdown:


----------



## 302W (Jul 24, 2004)

That reminds me of supertrapps










What the heck is going on here?


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

302W said:


> That reminds me of supertrapps
> 
> 
> 
> ...


NFI.


----------



## ryan mills (May 3, 2002)

Lieutenant Dan said:


> It does. It has the ability to run at almost 60:1 Air fuel ratio aka super lean mode when cruising in the proper conditions. There can be FSI N/A engines as well, so I don't know what you mean by not much of a difference


Are there any cars in the US that actually use the super lean mode? what I meant by not making that much of a difference is the increased fuel economy. At this point, I'd trade dirty intake valves on a DI engine for a 3% decrease in fuel economy.


----------



## IC AI (Aug 29, 2008)

barry2952 said:


> NFI.


Not for imbeciles?


----------



## PDong (Oct 26, 2004)

IC AI said:


> Not for imbeciles?


No ____ idea.


----------



## AutoUnion32 (Oct 4, 2008)

greywolf said:


> how come the ES350, which uses the same engine as the camry but with direct injection get lower MPG numbers?


ES350 and RX have the same engine as Camry and do not have DI. They use the 2GR-FE with no DI

IS350, GS350 have the 2GR-FSE with Toyota's D4S DI tech with both DI and port injection.


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

PDong said:


> No ____ idea.


Correct!


----------



## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

If anyone's actually asking how supertrapps work, here's a pic:










The exhaust comes out between the sandwiched disks. The open area the exhaust flows through is much larger than it appears. It doesn't take much to equal the area of a 2" diameter exhaust.

And as mentioned, those sidepipes have a cutout not visible that routes to a muffler under the car. Remove block-off plates for obnoxious noise.


----------



## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

Reminds me of dat WOOO WOOO WOOO.

Uhm, are there any benefits of running a turbo setup without an intercooler other than less piping for a faster spool time at the expense of greater risk of detonation?


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Roadkilled78 said:


> If anyone's actually asking how supertrapps work, here's a pic:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for the explanation.


----------



## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

barry2952 said:


> Spiders. Seriously. They build very solid nests in the vent tubes and block pressure relief. I believe one of the Japanese manufacturers just had a recall where they installed some kind of fine coil spring in the end of the hose to prevent spider infiltration.


gtfo :what:


----------



## Cousin Eddie (Dec 17, 2005)

What's more difficult to compete in: Autocross or Formula 1?


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

skydive_007 said:


> gtfo :what:


Very serious. Apparently the Mazda6 fuel tank is made out of something certain spiders love.


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

Adam144 said:


> What's more difficult to compete in: Autocross or Formula 1?


Heh...

I've done autocross. Actually won my class (sm) the first time out. I'd be a terrible F1 driver. :laugh:


----------



## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

According to recent posts, Autocross is just as hard as F1. 


Question: What do GTI and GLI stand for in Golf and Jetta, respectively?


----------



## DubNMiatafan (Feb 13, 2009)

Grand Touring Injection, and Grand Luxury Injection I believe.


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

TurboWraith said:


> Very serious. Apparently the Mazda6 fuel tank is made out of something certain spiders love.


I thought that I read that the spiders found it a particularly safe environment, like a cave. They would build a nest in the tube, blocking off the vent line, creating a suction as the fuel pump tried to remove fuel without being replaced by air.

I believe their fix was to replace the vent line and install a coil spring at the end of the tube, making the safety factor for the spiders go away as there's no protection.


----------



## Trike Kid (Sep 28, 2008)

MrMook said:


> I can't figure out what these caps are for on the side-exit exhaust. Why block them off? They were flush so no air could travel out of the pipes, and not spaced like an adjustable restrictor plate might be.


They're called Lake or Lake's pipes, there is a regular exhaust running out the back for quiet on the street, then you pull the caps for freer flow at the track.


----------



## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

barry2952 said:


> I thought that I read that the spiders found it a particularly safe environment, like a cave. They would build a nest in the tube, blocking off the vent line, creating a suction as the fuel pump tried to remove fuel without being replaced by air.
> 
> I believe their fix was to replace the vent line and install a coil spring at the end of the tube, making the safety factor for the spiders go away as there's no protection.


 I thought you were f*cking with me... so my car makes a horrible skreeching noise because there is spiders living in it ?? 

Im setting it on fire !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## freedomweasel (Apr 15, 2010)

skydive_007 said:


> I thought you were f*cking with me... so my car makes a horrible skreeching noise because there is spiders living in it ??
> 
> Im setting it on fire !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


 http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=mazda+spider+recall 
:laugh: Good luck.


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

skydive_007 said:


> I thought you were f*cking with me... so my car makes a horrible skreeching noise because there is spiders living in it ??
> 
> Im setting it on fire !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


 
That's pretty drastic, but that'll work.


----------



## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

man, this is a 91' EA Cabby ???? :what: 




freedomweasel said:


> http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=mazda+spider+recall
> :laugh: Good luck.


 mother of .... 

"Mazda Motor Corp (7261.T) said on Thursday it was recalling 52,000 cars after the National Highway Safety Commission said the spider webs may restrict a vent line, which could cause the emissions control system to increase pressure in the fuel tank. 

The build-up of webs in the emission systems could lead to fuel tank cracks and possible leaks. 

The culprit is the Yellow Sac spider, which makes the Mazda6 model of Mazda cars its home because it is lured inside by the smell of the fuel. The Mazda6 is known as the Atenza in Japan. 

"While it's very rare, this spider's distinguishing characteristic is that it likes the smell of gasoline, caused by the hydrogen oxide," said automotive journalist Mitsuhiro Kunisawa. 

"Once it smells the gasoline from outside, it will go inside. In the United States, it's a relatively common type of spider." 

The affected model, the Mazda6, has two pipes coming out from its gas tank, which is extremely rare and means that the smell of gasoline is strong enough to draw the spider in but not strong enough to kill it, Kunisawa said. 

He added that there was no similar problem with any other Mazda car. 

As part of the recall, dealers will install a spring to prevent spiders such as the Yellow Sac from entering the vent line."


----------



## ktk (Jun 29, 2009)

C4 A6 said:


> Reminds me of dat WOOO WOOO WOOO.
> 
> Uhm, are there any benefits of running a turbo setup without an intercooler other than less piping for a faster spool time at the expense of greater risk of detonation?


 
Not really. In all forms of internal combustion you want the intake charge air to be as cool as possible for maximum density and 02 ingestion. You hit the nail on the head pretty much in terms of downsides to intercooling, added complexity, weight of piping, places for leaks, and increased spool time to pressurize the larger volume of piping & intercooler. 

From purely an engine performance perspective it is always a good idea to cool boosted charge air.


----------



## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

Why do cars with electronic ignition timing still require a distributor with mechanical electrical connections?


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

sjt1985 said:


> Why do cars with electronic ignition timing still require a distributor with mechanical electrical connections?


 How else would you do it? Just asking.


----------



## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

barry2952 said:


> How else would you do it? Just asking.


 Well I understand in older cars the distributor would direct the current based on which electrical contacts were made in the distributor. Why don't we have electrical components direct the electricity instead?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

sjt1985 said:


> Well I understand in older cars the distributor would direct the current based on which electrical contacts were made in the distributor. Why don't we have electrical components direct the electricity instead?


 Actually, the single contact, if you're referring to points, is simply to turn on and off the voltage to the coil. Electronic ignition uses magnetic sensors in place of the points. You need a distributor to interact with the cam to determine firing order, hence the name. 

Are you suggesting using some type of wireless communication with the spark plug and engine management system?


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

barry2952 said:


> Actually, the single contact, if you're referring to points, is simply to turn on and off the voltage to the coil. Electronic ignition uses magnetic sensors in place of the points. You need a distributor to interact with the cam to determine firing order, hence the name.
> 
> Are you suggesting using some type of wireless communication with the spark plug and engine management system?


 Not wireless, but a cam position sensor - feeds position to computer - which tells the computer which spark plug to direct electricity. 

Using a cable to spin a distributor seems so spartan. Then again maybe I am not fully understanding how the ignition system works...


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

sjt1985 said:


> Not wireless, but a cam position sensor - feeds position to computer - which tells the computer which spark plug to direct electricity.


 That's how most cars work now, except OMG, Coilpacks!!! 

No distributor in even our dinosaur Chrysler 3.8L


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## PDong (Oct 26, 2004)

sjt1985 said:


> Not wireless, but a cam position sensor - feeds position to computer - which tells the computer which spark plug to direct electricity.
> 
> Using a cable to spin a distributor seems so spartan. Then again maybe I am not fully understanding how the ignition system works...


 Maybe that works, but there's still something to be said about simplicity of design, consistency, and known reliablity. Don't over-engineer something if you don't have to.


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## Egz (May 30, 2002)

PDong said:


> Maybe that works, but there's still something to be said about simplicity of design, consistency, and known reliablity. Don't over-engineer something if you don't have to.


 Can't imagine building a distributor to do waste-spark. Actually, I guess you could with a 2-pronged rotor.


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## TetsuoShima (Nov 30, 2008)

Is NA going to be getting Alfa Romeos? Or will they be rebadged Dodge and Chrysler vehicles? 

If so, what models would we be getting?


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## SVTDanny (Aug 8, 2005)

sjt1985 said:


> but a cam position sensor - feeds position to computer - which tells the computer which spark plug to direct electricity.


 
You mean like how 95% of iginiton systems made within the past 15 years work? :what:


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## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

PDong said:


> Maybe that works, but there's still something to be said about simplicity of design, consistency, and known reliablity. Don't over-engineer something if you don't have to.


 the thing is, its acutally simpiler to let the computer handle it. 

personally, i say dump the cam all together, you don't need it. all you need is an encoder on the crank to determine angle, and let a computer sort the timing out of everything. valves articulated with linear motors or piezio elterics, injectors, and ignition, all controled by the motronic.


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

djsheijkdfj said:


> You mean like how 95% of iginiton systems made within the past 15 years work? :what:


 Fair enough. I was just wondering because I changed the cap+rotor on my Mk3 2.0 jetta, and it has spinning parts.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

cockerpunk said:


> the thing is, its acutally simpiler to let the computer handle it.


 It is... now. That wasn't always the case. 

These things also come down to reliability. Many old, archaic systems persist because although they aren't the best way to control something, they work, and they fit the sweet spot of the durability/expense curve. 



> personally, i say dump the cam all together, you don't need it.


 This is probably the next step... but again, a mechanical cam lubricated by oil works really well, and for a really LONG time.


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## Egz (May 30, 2002)

sjt1985 said:


> Fair enough. I was just wondering because I changed the cap+rotor on my Mk3 2.0 jetta, and it has spinning parts.


 Well to be fair, much of the car was designed when the 80386 reigned supreme. Heck, the engine could pre-date the 80286.


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## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

Egz said:


> Well to be fair, much of the car was designed when the 80386 reigned supreme. Heck, the engine could pre-date the 80286.


Most of that engine predates the 8088!


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## Egz (May 30, 2002)

atomicalex said:


> Most of that engine predates the 8088!


 Can't beat a 4.77Mhz clock speed.


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

sjt1985 said:


> Fair enough. I was just wondering because I changed the cap+rotor on my Mk3 2.0 jetta, and it has spinning parts.


 Perhaps I am confusing electronic ignition with electronic fuel injection?


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## Egz (May 30, 2002)

sjt1985 said:


> Perhaps I am confusing electronic ignition with electronic fuel injection?


 Remember, you can still have electronic ignition with a distributor. Instead of using points and a condenser, you are using an electronic circuit to control the coil's input into the distributor. There is no connection to the car's ECU (if it had one), as that is the role the distributor. 

But as technology improves, designs have gone from to a coil feeding a distributor, to a single coilpack being controlled by the ECU, to individual coil packs controlled by the ECU.


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## SVTDanny (Aug 8, 2005)

Egz said:


> There is no connection to the car's ECU (if it had one), as that is the role the distributor.


 Hall sender for timing advances.


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## Egz (May 30, 2002)

djsheijkdfj said:


> Hall sender for timing advances.


 I guess. But that is more of a pass through instead of the ECU commanding it to do something.


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## PolskiHetzen (Apr 25, 2006)

Maybe this has been answered, but can someone explain load? Like why does a car not build boost when I rev it in netrual? And why does the turbo spool later in 1st vs 4th?


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## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

Surf Green said:


> It is... now. That wasn't always the case.


 well yeah, half the things on engines are absically just mecahnical timing systems. there is no reason why they couldn't be replaced by fully eletronic control, and i assume in the near future that will be the case.


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## alex_bgnet (Jan 7, 2004)

PolskiHetzen said:


> Maybe this has been answered, but can someone explain load? Like why does a car not build boost when I rev it in netrual? And why does the turbo spool later in 1st vs 4th?


 That has to do with the amount of fuel that gets burned. While the car is under load it burns much more fuel than neutral. More fuel = higher temperature = more expansion of gasses. I'm not a mechanical engineer but I'm sure someone here can add a little more thermodynamics brainage. 
Turbo spools later in 4th because the ratio b/w the tires/crankshaft is higher = need more torque. 
Try using a mountain bike in the lowest gear, you can almost pull a wheelie, try the same in the highest gear, you need 20 seconds to get up to full speed.


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

Egz said:


> Remember, you can still have electronic ignition with a distributor. Instead of using points and a condenser, you are using an electronic circuit to control the coil's input into the distributor. There is no connection to the car's ECU (if it had one), as that is the role the distributor.
> 
> But as technology improves, designs have gone from to a coil feeding a distributor, to a single coilpack being controlled by the ECU, to individual coil packs controlled by the ECU.


 So let me understand this correctly: Since I have only 1 coil pack, it still has to be directed to the correct cylinder. The distributor makes sure it is discharging to the proper cylinder. Right? 

Does the ECU also tell it when to discharge, or is it just when the distributor first makes electrical contact?


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

sjt1985 said:


> Does the ECU also tell it when to discharge, or is it just when the distributor first makes electrical contact?


 This has always confused me a little too. 

Especially how timing advance, etc all fits into it.


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## thebigmacd (Aug 17, 2004)

sjt1985 said:


> So let me understand this correctly: Since I have only 1 coil pack, it still has to be directed to the correct cylinder. The distributor makes sure it is discharging to the proper cylinder. Right?
> 
> Does the ECU also tell it when to discharge, or is it just when the distributor first makes electrical contact?


 The ECU tells it when to discharge. 

In the case of the MK3 2.0L, there is a spinning metal disc inside with a window that starts at 60 deg before top dead centre on cylinder 1, and ends at 10 deg before top dead centre. The ECU reads the start and end of this window via the hall sensor and in conjunction with pulses from the 58-tooth crank wheel it knows exactly what angle of rotation the engine is at at any time. Using this information it charges and fires the coil at exactly the right time. 

The rotor in the distributor has a really wide contact patch (120 deg?) where it touches the post for the correct cylinder, and the ECU can fire the coil at any time while contact is made. 

Older Digifant 2 cars had a hall window for every cylinder and no crank sensor.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

thebigmacd said:


> The ECU tells it when to discharge.
> 
> In the case of the MK3 2.0L, there is a spinning metal disc inside with a window that starts at 60 deg before top dead centre on cylinder 1, and ends at 10 deg before top dead centre. The ECU reads the start and end of this window via the hall sensor and in conjunction with pulses from the 58-tooth crank wheel it knows exactly what angle of rotation the engine is at at any time. Using this information it charges and fires the coil at exactly the right time.
> 
> ...


 The system you describe would then automatically compensate for a worn timing chain?


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## thebigmacd (Aug 17, 2004)

barry2952 said:


> The system you describe would then automatically compensate for a worn timing chain?


 Pretty much, when you have the combo distributor + crank sensor like on the ABA yes it will compensate as the main timing is calculated straight off the crank (it has two missing teeth at a specific location) and the distributor signal is used just to determine cyl#1 TDC for sequential injection. 

On Digi2 cars it will not compensate as the only timing reference is the distributor. 

An ABA will throw a code if the distributor signal is too far out from where it is expected (it is keyed in place), and turning the distributor will not change your base timing. A Digi2 car you have to clock the distributor to set base timing. 

On my ABA (Megasquirt) the distributor isn't even wired to anything as we just read the crank signal and fire each plug (coilpacks) and injector twice per cycle. Perfect timing no matter how stretched the timing belt is.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Twin-engined boats run engines in opposite directions. The parts needed to do this would be cam, distributor and starter, correct? Am I missing anything?


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## thebigmacd (Aug 17, 2004)

barry2952 said:


> Twin-engined boats run engines in opposite directions. The parts needed to do this would be cam, distributor and starter, correct? Am I missing anything?


 The oil pump (will turn the wrong way) 
Water pump (ditto) 
If it is EFI with crank sensor you would need to reprogram it or flip the trigger wheel around so the teeth are in the same spot relative to rotation. 
Sometimes the wrist pins on the pistons are offset, would need pistons too.


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## Subie J (Dec 17, 2009)

Is it legal for a dealership to sell a a car with an aftermarket roll cage? Key word there being aftermarket. (bolted in and of shady quality) 

I know GT3 RS's have them but had heard something along the lines of it was an option for them and most (all?) come equipped without.


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

Subie J said:


> Is it legal for a dealership to sell a a car with an aftermarket roll cage? Key word there being aftermarket. (bolted in and of shady quality)
> 
> I know GT3 RS's have them but had heard something along the lines of it was an option for them and most (all?) come equipped without.


 I can't imagine it is, none of them are DOT legal that I'm aware of.


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## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

What does "SF" stand for on a Ferrari badge.


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## TetsuoShima (Nov 30, 2008)

TetsuoShima said:


> Is NA going to be getting Alfa Romeos? Or will they be rebadged Dodge and Chrysler vehicles?
> 
> If so, what models would we be getting?


 .


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## 1.8Tquattro (Aug 13, 2006)

MightyDSM said:


> What does "SF" stand for on a Ferrari badge.


 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scuderia_Ferrari


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

TetsuoShima said:


> Is NA going to be getting Alfa Romeos? Or will they be rebadged Dodge and Chrysler vehicles?
> 
> If so, what models would we be getting?


 I would also like to know this. I pulled up next to an Alfa Romeo at a gas station along interstate 70 in Indiana in 2009. It must have been a 159 or something - just a plain sedan looking thing.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Were there ever any cars offered with a choice of FWD or RWD on the same model? 
I know there are plenty of FW/AWD platforms (Eclipse/Talon, Golf/R32, pre-'95 Imprezas), so it seems plausible that somebody might offer a car with front and rear drivetrain options.


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## TetsuoShima (Nov 30, 2008)

MrMook said:


> Were there ever any cars offered with a choice of FWD or RWD on the same model?
> I know there are plenty of FW/AWD platforms (Eclipse/Talon, Golf/R32, pre-'95 Imprezas), so it seems plausible that somebody might offer a car with front and rear drivetrain options.


 80's Corolla's? Just a guess..they might have all been RWD.


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## 5mall5nail5 (Mar 13, 2002)

Why do people rust their cars and "stance" them. When will the trend die?


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

5mall5nail5 said:


> Why do people rust their cars and "stance" them. When will the trend die?


 If it's not your thing, then don't do it to your car. :screwy:


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

TetsuoShima said:


> 80's Corolla's? Just a guess..they might have all been RWD.


 Ah, good call. 
According to Wiki, in '83 all Corollas were switched to FWD except the AE86 Levin/Trueno versions. 

Incidentally, here's one that used to park in my neighborhood:


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## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

afrost said:


> Question regarding my winter wheel and tire setup:
> 
> Last winter I put steelies on my golf that were starting to get a bit rusty. When I went to take them off they seemed sort of rusted to the hubs, and the hubs looked like hell from being exposed to the salt and grime all winter long. I had to work at the steelies a bit to even get them off.
> 
> ...


 I live in Quebec (very bad and long winters) and i just use regular grease. It doesn't stick and doesn't rust


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## TetsuoShima (Nov 30, 2008)

MrMook said:


>


 WANT.


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## VMPhil (Nov 16, 2007)

here is a question for the "Drivers". when coming to a corner and needing to down shift a couple of gears do you-- 

Apply the brake while hitting the clutch and shifting into a lower gear and let off the clutch sans gas? If so, how abusive is this to the tranny? (I said tranny, heh.) 

or do you apply the brake, then shift into a lower gear and heel toe the throttle


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## CodeMan (May 12, 2006)

VMPhil said:


> here is a question for the "Drivers". when coming to a corner and needing to down shift a couple of gears do you--
> 
> Apply the brake while hitting the clutch and shifting into a lower gear and let off the clutch sans gas? If so, how abusive is this to the tranny? (I said tranny, heh.)
> 
> or do you apply the brake, then shift into a lower gear and heel toe the throttle


 

Brake, clutch, shift, heel-toe to blip throttle, let clutch out, release brake.


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## VMPhil (Nov 16, 2007)

CodeMan said:


> Brake, clutch, heel-toe to blip throttle, let clutch out, release brake.


 Then I really really need to practice heel toe.  

It seems kinda difficult to get right.


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## CodeMan (May 12, 2006)

VMPhil said:


> Then I really really need to practice heel toe.
> 
> It seems kinda difficult to get right.


 There's no single way to do it, so just find the method that's easiest/most comfy for your particular feet and pedals. You can brake with the ball of your foot and blip with your toes, or brake with the heel, or brake with the toes & blip with the heel. If you have the room on the tach, you can downshift before you brake as well.


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## VMPhil (Nov 16, 2007)

Thanks for the tips. :beer:


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## Shmi (Mar 25, 2009)

Or if your feet are big enough or pedals close enough, you can use half your foot on the brake and the other half on the gas, split vertically. I do that occasionally, makes it easier sometimes. Gotta watch out for your foot possibly slipping off the brake though, probably why it's not the preferred method.


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## Brett92 (Nov 20, 2002)

I have a few questions about suspension... 

What makes a good riding car (well damped, but tight and not floaty)? Is it more in the suspension design, or is it almost all in components themselves? 

Is it normal for suspension to take large/deep bumps better than shallow bumps? 

I have a 2011 Elantra and the steep speed bumps, and even some potholes it takes fine (no noise, well damped), but some of the shallow bumps really seem to rattle your spine (I'm sounding dramatic, but you get my point). Are these normal qualities of a "firm" ride, or did Hyundai not do its suspension homework -try not to hate.:laugh:


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

Shmi said:


> Or if your feet are big enough or pedals close enough, you can use half your foot on the brake and the other half on the gas, split vertically. I do that occasionally, makes it easier sometimes. Gotta watch out for your foot possibly slipping off the brake though, probably why it's not the preferred method.


 I use this (aka side-by-side) method. Just get no-slip pedals and you'll be fine. Only real problem with the side-by-side is you have to be careful you're not on BOTH the brake and gas at the same time when braking. Sometimes I find myself doing that and wonder why I'm not braking a hard as I feel it should be.


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## B5tevo (Jan 23, 2006)

Brett92 said:


> I have a few questions about suspension...
> 
> What makes a good riding car (well damped, but tight and not floaty)? Is it more in the suspension design, or is it almost all in components themselves?
> 
> ...


 My wife has an 02 Elantra and I noticed the same thing the other day. She likes to take a particular speed bump about twice as fast as I feel comfortable in my Passat, but the Elantra shrugs it off fine. Steering feel is much better in the Passat, which I attribute to the multilink front end. To answer your question, its both. The design can influence the feeling and the controlability of the wheels (and in turn the chassis), but cheap parts and tuning can make a difference too. I used to own a Focus, also a strut front end, but tuned much stiffer. It was downright bouncy compared to both our current cars, yet it had less steering feel than the Passat. 

At least thats been my experience with them...


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## freedomweasel (Apr 15, 2010)

Why do manufacturers bother covering logos on camo'd test cars? Even to people who aren't enthusiasts, you can tell it's a BMW because of the grill. The badges are specifically covered on steering wheels, wheel center caps, etc, so it's not that they're just covered when they apply the camo wrap. Is it a legal thing?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

How can electric steering be more efficient than hydraulic? The steering system requires the same energy to move the same wheels the same amount, so when the electric pump asks that same motive force (converted to electricity) of the alternator, how comes the engine doesn't have to work as hard to turn the alternator to make the electricity to turn the electric motor than if it just moved the fluid itself in a conventional system?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

B5tevo said:


> My wife has an 02 Elantra and I noticed the same thing the other day. She likes to take a particular speed bump about twice as fast as I feel comfortable in my Passat, but the Elantra shrugs it off fine. Steering feel is much better in the Passat, which I attribute to the multilink front end. To answer your question, its both. The design can influence the feeling and the controlability of the wheels (and in turn the chassis), but cheap parts and tuning can make a difference too. I used to own a Focus, also a strut front end, but tuned much stiffer. It was downright bouncy compared to both our current cars, yet it had less steering feel than the Passat.
> 
> At least thats been my experience with them...


 I believe this has to do with spring rate and damping of the shock, working as a team. Spring rate means the overall firmness of the ride (higher spring rate=firmer, lower spring rate=floaty). Floaty and softness are two distinct things. When the car hits a bump, the wheel is pushed up hard, and the spring is countering that force. The shock then takes over and smooths out the feel. So a highly damped car with a soft spring will absorb big bumps and not care, while a firmer spring and softer shock will feel more stable. Smaller bumps will be transmitted through more becuase they're not really absorbed by the spring and the shock counteracts the force itself. I know this is NOT the technical way to describe it but it's how i imagine it working in my head  

A better explanation of how it works is if you jostle the corner of a car, the amount you can move it is explained as spring rate, and how long it keeps moving for after you stop is the damping. Make sense?


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

VDub2625 said:


> How can electric steering be more efficient than hydraulic? The steering system requires the same energy to move the same wheels the same amount, so when the electric pump asks that same motive force (converted to electricity) of the alternator, how comes the engine doesn't have to work as hard to turn the alternator to make the electricity to turn the electric motor than if it just moved the fluid itself in a conventional system?


 There's always some degree of mechanical drag from a hydraulic power steering pump, even if you're not using any assist. (I'm not aware of any clutched PS pumps.) Electric power steering only uses power when you're actually steering. 

And, to take it a step further, it might not actually cause a direct load on the alternator. Some new cars have clutched alternators that try to do most of the charging during deceleration (to capture excess energy, like a very mild hybrid). In a car like this, electric PS might not result in an instant load on the alternator -- the car could decide to leave the alternator disengaged, let the PS take power from the battery and then charge it up upon the next deceleration. It is a pretty cool concept to think about. Of course, if you're on an autocross and steering wildly back and forth, it will just keep the keep the alternator engaged so you don't drain the battery (they use pretty big motors). 

My Yaris doesn't -- but it has very aggressive fuel cutoff and stops firing the injectors when you coast in-gear. Even with the A/C on and compressor engaged, it does not use any gas when coasting. It is pretty cool to coast down a hill for half a mile or so and see 9999 MPG on the display the whole time.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

VDub2625 said:


> How can electric steering be more efficient than hydraulic?


 Because the hydraulic pump is a constant drag on the motor. It works a lot more when you're adding steering inputs, but even when you're not, it's still circulating fluid. The running drag of an alternator is much less. 

edit: beat, cause my kid distracted me from my reply with a question about homework... :laugh: 



VDub2625 said:


> I believe this has to do with spring rate and damping of the shock, working as a team.


 In addition to this, ride quality is also affected by weight of the wheels and other unsprung items. The less unsprung weight, the easier it is to control with the suspension, and the less harsh the ride will be when you hit a bump.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

adrew said:


> There's always some degree of mechanical drag from a hydraulic power steering pump, even if you're not using any assist. (I'm not aware of any clutched PS pumps.) Electric power steering only uses power when you're actually steering.


Interesting. But don't the hydraulic pumps have a check valve that just circulates fluid in a very tiny loop inside the pump when not being used by the rack? And either way, why do people say that the PS pump takes more power than an electric one even when actively steering? Despite the means of transmission of power from the engine crank to the moving of the steering piston, the forces required are still the same, are they not?



adrew said:


> And, to take it a step further, it might not actually cause a direct load on the alternator. Some new cars have clutched alternators that try to do most of the charging during deceleration (to capture excess energy, like a very mild hybrid). In a car like this, electric PS might not result in an instant load on the alternator -- the car could decide to leave the alternator disengaged, let the PS take power from the battery and then charge it up upon the next deceleration. It is a pretty cool concept to think about. Of course, if you're on an autocross and steering wildly back and forth, it will just keep the keep the alternator engaged so you don't drain the battery (they use pretty big motors).


THis is really really interesting, i did not know that! That makes perfect sense. A big battery combined with an alternator that can disconnect means you have power when you need it, and no wasted power when you don't. 



adrew said:


> My Yaris doesn't -- but it has very aggressive fuel cutoff and stops firing the injectors when you coast in-gear. Even with the A/C on and compressor engaged, it does not use any gas when coasting. It is pretty cool to coast down a hill for half a mile or so and see 9999 MPG on the display the whole time.


I do believe every car since the 60s or 70s does this? My GLi does and so does every FI VW.


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## VarianceVQ (Jun 26, 2005)

Why isn't the "M-Class" ever called the "ML-Class" (which it is badged)?


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

VarianceVQ said:


> Why isn't the "M-Class" ever called the "ML-Class" (which it is badged)?


They're two different tanks.


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## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

Is it true that The Stig has been releasing pop records under the pseudonym "Lady Gaga", and that under his racing suit, he also wears a red g-string and suspenders?


:laugh:


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

Why did we switch from generators to alternators? Does the alternating current need to be rectified in order to charge the battery?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Generators were used into the '60s, I believe. Alternators are lighter and have no brushes to wear out. Yes, a rectifier is necessary as alternators put out 110-volts.


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

thanks barry :thumbup:, just thought of another - 

Why is OBD2 considered much more complicated/difficult to work with than OBD1?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

sjt1985 said:


> thanks barry :thumbup:, just thought of another -
> 
> Why is OBD2 considered much more complicated/difficult to work with than OBD1?


I have no idea. That's where my knowledge base cuts off. All of my collector cars are pre-computer for a reason.


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## SLAB (Aug 1, 2001)

barry2952 said:


> Generators were used into the '60s, I believe. Alternators are lighter and have no brushes to wear out. Yes, a rectifier is necessary as alternators put out 110-volts.


 
alternators have brushes, and they do not put out 110 volts before the diodes :screwy::screwy:

alternators are more efficient. they use a field coil in the rotor (energized through BRUSHES.. weird i know) where the voltage is regulated by the regulator (or ecu) to match a corresponding voltage/current demand needed at the stator. the rotor/field coil is the magnet, and its variable. it acts on the stator (stationary windings) to produce energy. there are 3 separate windings that make up the stator, each phased 120 degrees apart so the alternator actually makes 3-phase ac power. 

note the 3-pairs of wires in the stator 









this is why all alternators have a 6-lobe rotor (divisible by 3). note there are no segments on the commutator. the field coil lives inside here.









this 3-phase ac current is passed through 6 diodes (rectifier), i pair per stator winding. the 3-phases are combined into a single dc output. 


with an alternator, there are no fixed magnets, the rotor is a variable "electromagnet." the high current is made in the stator portion of the alternator, does not pass through the brushes so there is less waste, has 3 seperate phases for more capacity, and current output is regulated (field coil) before excess is is even made. 

with a generator, dc current is made, and doesnt need to be rectified. there is only one phase of power. there are fixed, stationary magnets, the high current is made in the rotor, passed through the brushes, and high current/voltage is regulated after it has been made. very wasteful, and the high current eats brushes and wastes energy in the transfer process over a segmented commutator.

alternators have more capacity than generators (3-phase vs single phase), run cooler for the same output, are more reliable, and are less of a parasitic draw to operate.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

I stand corrected.


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## SLAB (Aug 1, 2001)

sjt1985 said:


> thanks barry :thumbup:, just thought of another -
> 
> Why is OBD2 considered much more complicated/difficult to work with than OBD1?


OBDII is the standardized and controlled interface system across all makes. 

see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics


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## mike in SC (Apr 29, 2004)

A few years ago my dad replaced the michelin tires on his 91 explorer. They weren't wide tires, but they were as wide or wider than the rim. The new tires replacing the michelins, despite the exact numerical size, the new tires were much skinnier. The truck felt more top heavy than before. 


Are Michelin tires made to appear wider, or do tire manufacturers have different construction methods concerning tire width to aspect ratio? I bought a new set of tires form my Fox a few years back and had the same problem. I sold them a few months later and bought better tires.


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

mike in SC said:


> A few years ago my dad replaced the michelin tires on his 91 explorer. They weren't wide tires, but they were as wide or wider than the rim. The new tires replacing the michelins, despite the exact numerical size, the new tires were much skinnier. The truck felt more top heavy than before.
> 
> 
> Are Michelin tires made to appear wider, or do tire manufacturers have different construction methods concerning tire width to aspect ratio? I bought a new set of tires form my Fox a few years back and had the same problem. I sold them a few months later and bought better tires.


I believe, though not sure, that tire dimensions are measured with the tire sitting, sans wheel. More sidewall rubber, ballon effect, can also make a tire look wider while keeping the same aspect ratio (second number)


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## JeffIsLax (Mar 26, 2005)

MustacheGT said:


> They're two different tanks.


I recently saw a commercial for the M-Class, and it reminded me of this question. The car featured in the commercial was in fact an ML350. That does not give me the answer, though. I'm not sure why they call the ML# cars the M-Class rather than the ML-Class.

I have a question. For AWD systems, manufacturers have specs for the maximum allowable difference in tire height for side to side and front to back. People on TCL sometimes comment that a person might have fried their differential, after driving for a short amount of time with a spare wheel of different height. With a traditional differential, is it really that much of an issue? The spider gear that allows the differential torque transfer is a set of hardened bevel gears, which (I think, at least) receives lubrication from the fluid in the case. The spider gear would be working more than it normally should, but shouldn't a gear set like that be able to handle constant use?


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## SLAB (Aug 1, 2001)

mike in SC said:


> A few years ago my dad replaced the michelin tires on his 91 explorer. They weren't wide tires, but they were as wide or wider than the rim. The new tires replacing the michelins, despite the exact numerical size, the new tires were much skinnier. The truck felt more top heavy than before.
> 
> 
> Are Michelin tires made to appear wider, or do tire manufacturers have different construction methods concerning tire width to aspect ratio? I bought a new set of tires form my Fox a few years back and had the same problem. I sold them a few months later and bought better tires.


tire width means width of tire. not necessarily the tread. tirerack lists these separately, you can see lots of the same "size" tires have varying tread width


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## jettafan[atic] (Dec 2, 2008)

sjt1985 said:


> thanks barry :thumbup:, just thought of another -
> 
> Why is OBD2 considered much more complicated/difficult to work with than OBD1?


OBDII Integrates so many more sensors and items that can be monitored which creates all the complexity. For example say you want to swap the head from one engine to another engine of the same family. On an older car you may only have to worry about a few things to get the a/f right and ignition timing correct but with OBDII there's a million things like mass air flow sensors, air temp sensors, multiple banks of O2 sensors, which may or may not have to be converted to wideband O2 sensors depending on the engine, knock sensors, cam and crank position sensors, coolant temp sensors and a hundred other components that all have to work with the ECU otherwise it may go into a limp mode. (if it will even start at all)

Every little thing that OBDII can monitor/control over OBDI is another thing that can go wrong.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

What's with these AMG brakes? I saw a set today, and they're massive!
Are they a "double" caliper? How many pistons? They cover 25% of the rotor, so do they cause heat issues?


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

MrMook said:


> What's with these AMG brakes? I saw a set today, and they're massive!
> Are they a "double" caliper? How many pistons? They cover 25% of the rotor, so do they cause heat issues?


They don't appear to cover more swept area than your average 6 pot (corvette z).

Though, wouldn't surprise me if that is a showcar/concept.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

TurboWraith said:


> They don't appear to cover more swept area than your average 6 pot (corvette z).
> 
> Though, wouldn't surprise me if that is a *showcar/concept.*


They're production brakes....unless I saw an old white guy driving an AMG prototype in Brooklyn today. 

I guess they're not that big (compared to other HP calipers) but I'm still curious about their construction, and why they appear as twin calipers in one hanger. Is there anything particularly fancy about these?


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## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

Are these LED lights?? 

The ones that are not as bright, do i have to replace them individually??


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

brakes on/off, are they instant (much quicker than the tail lights), or is there that telltale incandescnet fade? Also, are there screws or a way to remove the brake light easily?


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## jettafan[atic] (Dec 2, 2008)

Yup, the CHMSL (Center High Mount Stop Light) is usually a led strip.

And while I'm sure it is possible to take it apart and solder in a replacement LED they're generally replaced as a whole unit.


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## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

VDub2625 said:


> brakes on/off, are they instant (much quicker than the tail lights), or is there that telltale incandescnet fade? Also, are there screws or a way to remove the brake light easily?


Yes they look somewhat easy to remove. I didn't have a chance to look at the speed of on/off.



jettafan[atic] said:


> Yup, the CHMSL (Center High Mount Stop Light) is usually a led strip.
> 
> And while I'm sure it is possible to take it apart and solder in a replacement LED they're generally replaced as a whole unit.


Perfect, thanks


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## Lifelong Obsession (Jul 24, 2011)

*Toyota trucks*

I've always wondered - why do the Toyota Tacoma, FJ Cruiser, 4Runner, and Lexus GX use 6 bolts for their wheels, while the larger, heavier Land Cruiser and Lexus LX can get away with 5?

(Of course, the Tundra and Sequoia use 6 bolts, but that's beyond the point.)


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Is it 12 cylinder or 16 cylinder engines that are perfectly balanced and smooth? Why don't we see more smaller displacement 12 and 16s? Are they that much more to produce nowadays than 8 cylinders? I would imagine they'd only be used in luxury cars anyway, so couldn't the cost be absorbed?


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## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

VDub2625 said:


> Is it 12 cylinder or 16 cylinder engines that are perfectly balanced and smooth? Why don't we see more smaller displacement 12 and 16s? Are they that much more to produce nowadays than 8 cylinders? I would imagine they'd only be used in luxury cars anyway, so couldn't the cost be absorbed?


Less torque, which you need with luxury boats.


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## ktk (Jun 29, 2009)

VDub2625 said:


> Is it 12 cylinder or 16 cylinder engines that are perfectly balanced and smooth? Why don't we see more smaller displacement 12 and 16s? Are they that much more to produce nowadays than 8 cylinders? I would imagine they'd only be used in luxury cars anyway, so couldn't the cost be absorbed?



When it comes to "engine balance" it is the 1st and 2nd order free forces and the 1st and 2nd order free moments that have the most significant impact on engine smoothness from a NVH and vibration perspective (higher orders are usually negligible). Nothing is "perfectly balanced" but the typical V12's and W16's are as smooth as they are because that they have none of these 1st or 2nd order free forces or free moments. 

The downsides of V12 or V16's is cost, complexity, size, and fuel economy. They are long and wide engines, packaging them is difficult. You also have exceedingly complex valvetrains when you are talking 4 valves per cylinder and 12 or 16 cylinders. More moving parts, more cost, more things to go wrong, more things to wear out, and lower fuel economy all add up keeping such large complex engines in only the more high end of vehicles. 

An inline 6 has all the the same smoothness benefits as a V12, V16, or W16 and is much easier to package in smaller vehicles at reasonable cost/complexity. (ala BMW)


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## lab_rat (Jun 26, 2001)

What is the *correct* way to tighten/torque wheels back on your car after taking them off? 



On the lift, torque them down, and then lower?
OR
Hand tighten, lower the car, then torque wheels?
OR
Something else entirely?


Thanks for this thread by the way.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

lab_rat said:


> What is the *correct* way to tighten/torque wheels back on your car after taking them off?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Wheels should always be final torqued without the car's weight on them to get an accurate reading. Cross-tightening, after snugging, is always recommended.


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## lab_rat (Jun 26, 2001)

Thanks!

Now I don't have to be paranoid that I'll do this:






This video never gets old... :laugh:


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

lab_rat said:


> This video never gets old... :laugh:


WTF would have caused that? Spacers?


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## lab_rat (Jun 26, 2001)

From reading the accounts of several interwebz experts, they say he had the wrong lugs installed, and once the wheels were load bearing, the lugs stripped or backed off... they say the dealer sold him the wrong lugs.:facepalm:


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

barry2952 said:


> WTF would have caused that? Spacers?


I track with spacers, and have never had a problem related to them.

Using Ball seats where you should be using cone seats, or the other way around, will cause this.

What's so shocking about that video is that all the wheels came off at the same time. I cannot completely explain that.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

There are some metric threads that are close to SAE that could have been swapped, however, they would never have been able to get 100 lbs of torque out of a mismatched thread.


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## SpecialFX (Aug 20, 2006)

barry2952 said:


> Wheels should always be final torqued without the car's weight on them to get an accurate reading. Cross-tightening, after snugging, is always recommended.


So how are you supposed to keep the wheels from turning when you do this? I've always done the final torque on the ground, because up in the air, the wheels just spin. An impact works up in the air, but then you aren't using the torque spec.


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## freedomweasel (Apr 15, 2010)

SpecialFX said:


> So how are you supposed to keep the wheels from turning when you do this? I've always done the final torque on the ground, because up in the air, the wheels just spin. An impact works up in the air, but they you aren't using the torque spec.


I imagine you could have someone hold the brakes for you, but I've never heard of anyone doing it this way either. I was taught to tighten them down, then drop the car and torque them.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

I'm not saying that's the wrong way. The rears are easy to do in the air if RWD. The fronts need the brakes applied.


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## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

I always snug the fronts to about 50 pounds, or whatever I can hold the tire and do, and then lower the jack just enough to get enough weight on the front tires so they won't turn when final torquing.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I use the e-brake and car in gear (FWD) to tighten in the air. i shouldn't, but I also stand on the wrench to apply ~160 ft-lbs, should be enough


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## Omnilith (Jan 15, 2010)

VDub2625 said:


> I use the e-brake and car in gear (FWD) to tighten in the air. i shouldn't, but I also stand on the wrench to apply ~160 ft-lbs, should be enough


Don't do that... Over-torquing is just as dangerous as under-torquing.

As a person who has had many mangled studs in my life, including a couple sheared studs during cornering on-track, I feel that proper stud care is absolutely critical.

Keep them clean and free of debris... If either the stud or nut threads are damaged, replace and do not torque them down while damaged.

Always use a torque wrench when possible... nothing wrong with a well cared for Harbor Freight or an inexpensive needle wrench if that's all you can afford.

Always ensure you have at least the width of the fastener worth of threads to engage... so a 12M x 1.5 needs at least eight threads of engagement.

If you run track events or race events often, consider replacing the studs often as the heat cycles can cause them to become brittle with age.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Interesting. I have a VW so I have bolts, i wonder if that means i should treat them any differently. I have a torque wrench, it's just much easier to get the thing out of the trunk. I don't even know what my specs should be.


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## Omnilith (Jan 15, 2010)

For the most part it is the same principle.

It couldn't hurt to get in the habit. I'd look up the spec (should be online somewhere) and memorize it.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

torque specs for wheel bolts and lug nuts are found in the car's user manual.

as well as fluid capacities, gvw, towing capacities, load capacities, etc.


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## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

VDub2625 said:


> Interesting. I have a VW so I have bolts, i wonder if that means i should treat them any differently. I have a torque wrench, it's just much easier to get the thing out of the trunk. I don't even know what my specs should be.


80 ft lbs for 12mm bolts (4 lug) and 90 ft-lbs for 14mm bolts (5 lug) is good.


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## lab_rat (Jun 26, 2001)

Okay, so I found this on proper installation/torque:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=39

Begin Installation

The best place to find the correct procedure for tire and wheel removal is in the owner's manual for your vehicle.

Step 1: To remove your old wheels and tires, break the lug nuts or bolts loose before raising the vehicle. We recommend using hand tools exclusively (Photo A). When removing wheel hardware, a power wrench may be used with extreme care, but should not be used to torque lug nut hardware. It is best to carefully remove lugs with a four-way wrench or a socket on a breaker bar. An impact wrench may damage the lugs or the studs.

Step 2: Raise your vehicle slightly with a jack (Photo B), and support the lifted vehicle with jack stands (if available). Be sure to use your jack and jack stands only on a flat, level surface when working on your vehicle. Remove your old wheels and tires.

Step 3: Test fit each wheel in its final position. Check for proper fit as described below.

NOTE: If you only purchased wheels, it is imperative that test fitting is done prior to mounting the tires.

ATTENTION: Check the condition of the vehicle's lug studs or wheel bolts as you loosen and tighten them. If you feel any resistance or see any roughness after removing the wheels, correct it before reinstalling the wheels. Most automotive stores sell taps and thread repair kits. Wheels must fit flat against the vehicle's hubs. Remove any rust and dirt from the mounting surface of brake rotors and drums. Remove any temporary retaining devices, like stud clips. These are used to hold brake rotors and drums in place before the wheels were installed at the factory (Photo C). These will keep the wheels from fitting flush against the brake hubs. Some vehicles have indicator or locator pins on the hub (Photo D). These are on the hub to aid the indexing of the wheel when it is on the vehicle assembly line. These can be found on some Volvo, Nissan and Infiniti models. They do not perform any other function and should also be removed from the hub before mounting your new wheels. The exception to this rule: large bolts holding Hyundai rotors to their hubs should not be removed. If aftermarket wheels have previously been used on the vehicle, verify that the previous wheel's hub centering rings have been removed from the hubs. If your vehicle is equipped with drum brakes and if the drum's outer flange or balance weights protrude further out than the center of the drum, verify that the wheel seats on the hub are not against the drum's outer flange or balance weights. If you have any questions, contact your sales specialist or Tire Rack's customer service department.

Step 4: Check the fit of the wheel onto the hub of the vehicle. Some wheel applications may require the use of a centering ring to create the proper fit onto the hub. The bolt circle of the wheel must match that of your vehicle and the wheel must make full contact to the mating surface of the hub. If the wheel does not match up to the bolt circle of the vehicle, or the wheel does not have full contact to the mounting surface, please contact your sales specialist or our customer service department at 888-541-1777, ext. 360.

Step 5: In order to verify that you have matching lug or bolt thread sizes, first install the lug nuts or bolts without the wheel. If you feel resistance while doing this, inspect the lug stud and nut (or hub and bolt) to see if the threads are clean or obstructed. If the lug nut or bolt appears obstructed or does not match the thread pitch of your hubs, try another one. If another lug doesn't thread any better, give us a call. We will verify that you have the correct hardware for your application.

NOTE: Do not force your lug nuts or bolts on with a wrench. They should be able to be turned by hand. If they can't, something is wrong! Please call Tire Rack's customer service department at 888-541-1777, ext. 360. Only after the lugs have been installed by hand until "finger tight" should you snug them down with your four-way wrench or a socket on a breaker bar.

Size of Bolt or Stud	Number of Turns
14x1.5mm	7.5
12x1.5mm	6.5
12x1.25mm	8
1/2"	8
7/16"	8
NOTE: Since the thickness of an alloy wheel can differ from Original Equipment wheels, also verify that the lug nuts or bolts will engage the threads. Refer to the chart (at right) to determine the number of turns or the depth of engagement typical for your stud or bolt size.


Step 6: For the next inspections it will be necessary to temporarily install the wheel by snugging down the lug nuts or bolts in order to verify disc brake caliper clearance. You should have at least 3-4mm of clearance between your wheels and the brakes on the vehicle.

Step 7: Put your vehicle's transmission into neutral and turn each wheel by hand while making certain that the outer edge of the disc brake caliper doesn't touch the inside of the rim or that the side of the caliper doesn't come into contact with the backside of the wheel or the wheel balancing weights.

Once you have completed your test fit, we suggest removing the wheel and applying a thin coating of anti-seize around the axle hubs to help prevent rust and permit easier removal when it's time to rotate your tires. Do not apply anti-seize compound to the lug hardware or studs.

If you have any concerns...CALL US! We will be happy to help you solve your problem.

Step 8: Proper installation requires that the wheel lug torque be set to the recommended specification for your vehicle. These torque specifications can be found in your vehicle's owner's manual, shop repair manual or obtained from your vehicle dealer. Finish tightening the lugs down with an accurate torque wrench. Use a crisscross sequence until they have reached their proper torque value. Be careful because if you over-torque a wheel, you can strip a lug nut, stretch or break a wheel stud, and cause the wheel, brake rotor and/or brake drum to distort.

While new wheel installation isn't difficult – it's no harder than changing a flat tire - it is necessary to take the necessary safety precautions. If you aren't purchasing new wheels and need tire installation only, please select one of our Recommended Installers or use one of your local tire dealers. We do not recommend doing your own tire changing (dismounting and mounting the tire) or flat tire repairs. This should be left for properly trained technicians.

NOTE: After installing new wheels you should re-torque your lug hardware after the first 50 to 100 miles of driving. This is necessary because as the wheels are breaking in they may compress slightly allowing their lugs to lose some of their torque. Simply repeat the same torque procedure listed above. For more information, read our Wheel Tech article, "Bolt Pattern."


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## 302W (Jul 24, 2004)

Can fluid filled engine mounts fail without leaking fluid?

Oh, and I see the issue at hand and it reminds me of a question. Why do my lugnuts always get stuck in my sockets when using my impact wrench?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

The corners just get wedged in the socket. Throw it at the ground a few times and it should pop out.

As for the hydro mounts, i don't think so, unless the rubber starts deteriorating, which will eventually cause the hydro fluid to leak anyway.


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## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

My mom’s Chrysler Sebring just returned from the garage, they changed the oil level sensor since the oil light always kept going on at idle (and yes there was enough oil). The oil light still goes on one week after the repair which was 250$ by the way for a 40$ sensor. It’s going back to the dealer this week. Should I ask them for a discount of some sort since they didn’t fix anything?


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## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

Lifelong Obsession said:


> I've always wondered - why do the Toyota Tacoma, FJ Cruiser, 4Runner, and Lexus GX use 6 bolts for their wheels, while the larger, heavier Land Cruiser and Lexus LX can get away with 5?
> 
> (Of course, the Tundra and Sequoia use 6 bolts, but that's beyond the point.)


The 5 bolt pattern is a new pattern 5-150, and uses 14mm studs. The 6 lug pattern uses 12 mm studs. The 5 lug pattern is actually stronger.


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## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

302W said:


> Can fluid filled engine mounts fail without leaking fluid?
> 
> Oh, and I see the issue at hand and it reminds me of a question. Why do my lugnuts always get stuck in my sockets when using my impact wrench?


Are you using black impact sockets, or normal silver ones?

If black, the nuts are probably cheap ones, or you're using metric when they are imperial, or vice versa. If you are using silver sockets they aren't really strong enough and are actually deforming, eventually they will crack.


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## 302W (Jul 24, 2004)

VDub2625 said:


> The corners just get wedged in the socket. Throw it at the ground a few times and it should pop out.


It's the WORST, I actually had to replace a socket and lugnut as a result because one got wedged so hard. I think I should start breaking torque with my breaker bar instead of the impact like the tirerack guide says above.


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

ThreadBomber said:


> Are you using black impact sockets, or normal silver ones?
> 
> If black, the nuts are probably cheap ones, or you're using metric when they are imperial, or vice versa. If you are using silver sockets they aren't really strong enough and are actually deforming, eventually they will crack.


(Quality) Chrome sockets will hold hundreds of pounds of torque just fine. They are a no-no on impact tools though. The important thing is the correct size (duh) and 6 point socket for higher torque loads. Though a 12 point should have more than enough strength for 100lb/ft or so.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

2.0_Mazda said:


> My mom’s Chrysler Sebring just returned from the garage, they changed the oil level sensor since the oil light always kept going on at idle (and yes there was enough oil). The oil light still goes on one week after the repair which was 250$ by the way for a 40$ sensor. It’s going back to the dealer this week. Should I ask them for a discount of some sort since they didn’t fix anything?


Are you joking? You shouldn't have to pay a cent if it's the exact same problem.


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## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

TurboWraith said:


> (Quality) Chrome sockets will hold hundreds of pounds of torque just fine. *They are a no-no on impact tools though*. The important thing is the correct size (duh) and 6 point socket for higher torque loads. Though a 12 point should have more than enough strength for 100lb/ft or so.


He mentioned he was using his impact wrench, hence why I replied the way I did.


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## liebs816 (Jun 4, 2009)

why does PENNDOT issue cheap inspection/emissions stickers that ALWAYS peel off my windshield?


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## 302W (Jul 24, 2004)

ThreadBomber said:


> Are you using black impact sockets, or normal silver ones?
> 
> If black, the nuts are probably cheap ones, or you're using metric when they are imperial, or vice versa. If you are using silver sockets they aren't really strong enough and are actually deforming, eventually they will crack.


I'm using black sockets, but cheap harbor freight ones. I've had this issue with OEM lugs. And definitely right in terms of standard vs metric, I check thoroughly.


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## muffintop (Oct 15, 2009)

So apparently my car has 50/50 weight distribution or close to it. Does that mean I will never have to rotate my tires? 

I am convinced the fronts will wear more quickly.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

muffintop said:


> So apparently my car has 50/50 weight distribution or close to it. Does that mean I will never have to rotate my tires?
> 
> I am convinced the fronts will wear more quickly.


The fronts will wear more quickly because they turn and scrub. Always rotate your tires. Alignment plays a big factor in ntire wear, of course (and generally the rear is set more neutral than the front), but weight disrtibution as far as I know has nothing to do with it.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

muffintop said:


> So apparently my car has 50/50 weight distribution or close to it. Does that mean I will never have to rotate my tires?
> 
> I am convinced the fronts will wear more quickly.


You'll need to rotate tires if you want them to wear evenly. Front tires wear on the outer edge from turning so rotating them to the rear puts better turning tires on the front.


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

ThreadBomber said:


> He mentioned he was using his impact wrench, hence why I replied the way I did.


Indeed he did. I missed it, wasn't trying to make you sound 'wrong'. :beer:


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## Silentbobs (Apr 27, 2003)

MrMook said:


> What's with these AMG brakes? I saw a set today, and they're massive!
> Are they a "double" caliper? How many pistons? They cover 25% of the rotor, so do they cause heat issues?


This setup is simply just two calipers run in series. Where it says amg are the calipers and the rest is just one big carrier. If I remember correctly, the calipers are only single piston, and you can't buy them individually from the dealer, they only come as a pair.


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

Lets say someone puts a 'chip' in a GTI. 

1) Where does this go - in the ECU? 
2) Why does it need a 'tune' and what is involved in a tune?
3) Is the 'tune' going to be different for each GTI (assuming same model year etc)?


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

sjt1985 said:


> Lets say someone puts a 'chip' in a GTI.
> 
> 1) Where does this go - in the ECU? *Yes. Some are soldered in (older units, like Motronic, IIRC), and some just plug in to the board.*
> 2) Why does it need a 'tune' and what is involved in a tune? *The tune is specific to the chip you order. You can get a custom chip made as well to match your setup. Most common chips for VW's (TT, GIAC) are pre-flashed to work with specific cam profiles, boost settings. I think this is what is meant by a "tune". If you put in a chip, you need to make sure all the hardware matches the software in order to get the most out of it. They tend to advance timing as well, so you typically have to run a higher octane gasoline*
> 3) Is the 'tune' going to be different for each GTI (assuming same model year etc)? *See 2*


At least, that is how I understand it.


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## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

sjt1985 said:


> Lets say someone puts a 'chip' in a GTI.
> 
> 1) Where does this go - in the ECU?
> 2) Why does it need a 'tune' and what is involved in a tune?
> 3) Is the 'tune' going to be different for each GTI (assuming same model year etc)?


1. There is no "chip" anymore. 15 years ago there was, you actually changed the chip in your vehicles ECU. Now, you are simply changing the software in the ECU. Most vehicles this is done with a cable connected you the cars OBD (on-board diagnostics) port. On the newest MkVI GTI's however VW has encrypted the ECU so that it needs to be removed and cracked open in order to be reprogrammed. 

2. Companies like APR of Revo re-write the software to allow the vehicle to make more power. They alter any number of things, fuel map, boost map, spark map etc etc. This increases power and sometimes increases fuel mileage also. VW generally is very conservative with their programming and have to allow for the possibility of 87 octane being used. 

3. Yes, depending on which model year and which engine you have, there are several different tunes. There are even four or five different tunes for each car/engine depending on how agressive you want to be and what fuel you want to use.


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## DasHammer (Jul 21, 2011)

ThreadBomber said:


> 1. There is no "chip" anymore. 15 years ago there was, you actually changed the chip in your vehicles ECU.



I remember needing to solder in the new chip and I was very excited when you could just plug and play the new chip with no solder.
Now-a-days it is extremely easy to 'chip' a car.
But not as rewarding as tuning carbs.:laugh:


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

MrMook said:


> At least, that is how I understand it.


:thumbup:



ThreadBomber said:


> They alter any number of things, fuel map, boost map, spark map etc etc.


What do you mean by fuel map and spark map? Is it just timing/amount of fuel delivery and spark delivery? Same with boost map...

Are any mechanical adjustments made or just electrical?


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## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

sjt1985 said:


> :thumbup:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The map just means the time when timing advance, boost pressure and fuel delivery are engaged/started. It's hard to explain without a diagram I suppose but you can picture a graph with one axis being RPM, and another being throttle input. You can alter when and how much of boost/timing advance/fuel pressure you want to add into the equation at any given RPM/throttle level. With higher octane fuel you can add more boost pressure and timing at earlier RPM, which increases power. 

With a stage one chip, it's usually only software. Stage two for example is only software also, but you start making enough power where other parts start to become a big restriction. I think APR recommends an intake and exhaust for Stage 2 applications.


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

DasHammer said:


> But not as rewarding as tuning carbs.:laugh:


Psssht! Tuning CIS is where it's at!


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

atomicalex said:


> Psssht! Tuning CIS is where it's at!


I have the best of both worlds. i get to tune CIS and install a chip in my ECU! It is even socketed!


----------



## Gitcha Sum (May 27, 2008)

For a car/truck with an independant rear suspension... does the driveshaft have U joints? 
I know my car has a "guibo" or "flex disc", is that the only piece that allows movement in the shaft, since both the trans, and the differential center section are hard mounted?


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

deucestudios said:


> For a car/truck with an independant rear suspension... does the driveshaft have U joints?
> I know my car has a "guibo" or "flex disc", is that the only piece that allows movement in the shaft, since both the trans, and the differential center section are hard mounted?


The only reason it would have universals is if the alignment angle of the trans tail shaft and the pinion attachment wasn't perfect. IRS differentials don't move.


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

barry2952 said:


> The only reason it would have universals is if the alignment angle of the trans tail shaft and the pinion attachment wasn't perfect. IRS differentials don't move.


In the case of the miata (irs) it must have some sort of u-joint or CV joint. Here is a pic (are these CV joints?










Also - driveshaft on miata has U joints


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## P-Body (Mar 18, 2007)

I find car I like.
Negotiate good price.
Have option to finance at 0% for 84 months.
It's an open loan so I can top up whenever I want.

That's a good thing right? As long as you have gap insurance, it's not stupid to go out to 84 months?


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## JeffIsLax (Mar 26, 2005)

In theory, you wouldn't need the u-joint if everything was lined up, but like Barry mentioned, that is not always the case. Also, in practice, things flex and move during operation so its a good idea to design one into the driveshaft.










The E30 (above) has a guibo and a u-joint; the guibo to account for engine movement and vibration and the u-joint to account for differential misalignment.


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

P-Body said:


> That's a good thing right? As long as you have gap insurance, it's not stupid to go out to 84 months?


IMO I would not buy gap insurance, but rather store some cash to make up for it on your own. If you don't need the money you put aside, you do what you want with it. If you don't use gap insurance, it's gone forever.

PS 0% for 84 months = :thumbup:


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## Dr. Woo (Feb 28, 2003)

sjt1985 said:


> IMO I would not buy gap insurance, but rather store some cash to make up for it on your own. If you don't need the money you put aside, you do what you want with it. If you don't use gap insurance, it's gone forever.


That's highly dependent on your situation. For the cost of GAP insurance (for the sake of argument let's say it's $400 up-front), It would take _years_ in a high-yield account to equal the potential value of the insurance itself, especially over the course of a _7-year_ loan.

I'd say considering the length of time the car will be financed and the rate of depreciation most cars suffer, it's extremely important, especially if you make no down payment.


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

Dr. Woo said:


> That's highly dependent on your situation. For the cost of GAP insurance (for the sake of argument let's say it's $400 up-front), It would take _years_ in a high-yield account to equal the potential value of the insurance itself, especially over the course of a _7-year_ loan.


So what - I could but life insurance for xyz dollars a month and it would take years in a high yield account to make up for that potential. Such is the case with any insurance. It's really a matter of personal choice. IMO if you can't afford the car (including the potential gap in loan balance vs blue book) then don't buy it. :beer:


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

JeffIsLax said:


> In theory, you wouldn't need the u-joint if everything was lined up, but like Barry mentioned, that is not always the case. Also, in practice, things flex and move during operation so its a good idea to design one into the driveshaft.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Actually, there are many applications where a U-joint will self-destruct in short order due to near perfect alignment. If there's do flex in a U-joint the needle bearings won't rotate and will wear into their seats, causing premature failure. In the '70s, large Mercurys had only one joint while Lincolns had two. On the Lincoln it was because of a downward facing pinion flange.


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## Gitcha Sum (May 27, 2008)

JeffIsLax said:


> In theory, you wouldn't need the u-joint if everything was lined up, but like Barry mentioned, that is not always the case. Also, in practice, things flex and move during operation so its a good idea to design one into the driveshaft.


Well I kinda guessed that say, for the front of an IFS truck, you'd need two cardan joints to allow the misaligned transfer case front output to meet the centered differential. 

But, that's good info about a straight shaft ruining the needle bearings, or joint itself, cause they wouldn't ever need to move. 

I guess to go more deeper, I'm talking about a e39 5 series, which has a rear sub frame. That sub frame is mounted to the body with 4 large bushings. I guess the root of my question is wondering if the flex disc has just barely enough movement to accommodate the tiny amount of flex those bushings have. Knowing now that it's probably a case where it would eat regular U joints. I think at this point I'm kinda re-answering my own question though. Thanks...


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## SoTxBill (Jan 14, 2001)

nourdmrolnmt1 said:


> _Quote, originally posted by *VegasJetta* »_I got one..
> around Vegas, on the highways near overpasses or underpasses, there are signs that say NO HC with the universal Crossout sign, circle with a line through it.
> Whiskey Tango Foxtrot?!
> 
> ...


No, its hazardous CARGO.....

AND if I remember correctly.... only the military or car dealer can do a recall...iirc.:laugh:


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## Dark Zero (Feb 17, 2005)

Not sure if it's been discussed before. If I have a clean titled car and swap in a totally different engine, would the title now be a rebuilt one or equivalent or stay clean? I'm curious about the aspect of doing it right/legal than the ones driving around and never changing anything on documents. What would need to be changed or updated (Insurance? Title? Registration?). Unless there is no benefit or point?

Example: Swapped Civics; MKII GTi's w/ VR6's, Swapped E30's etc...


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## 302W (Jul 24, 2004)

I highly doubt it, most states don't look that closely. And the states that do look into it do it for smog reasons, such as California and their BAR testing.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I don't see why you'd need a new title. People swap engines all the time when they blow, it just qualifies as a mechanical repair.


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## Dark Zero (Feb 17, 2005)

Always expected it to be some huge issue, seems to not be the case. Figured if somehow the engine didn't match the VIN there would be a problem. Thanks guys.


----------



## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

A question: What kind of damage can you do from putting too much oil in the engine? over 1 quart, 2 quarts, etc.?


----------



## SoTxBill (Jan 14, 2001)

Huckvw said:


> If i have an automatic transmission and i'm on the highway and shift it into reverse, will it do it?
> page: sqrt(256) reserved.



yes.. btdi..

at 70 mph, a friend thought he would be funny and shift the console into neutral. But he pushed down on the lock out button as he pushed the shifter forward and slipped the car into reverse.


the 65 ford galaxie 500 xl with 406 and c-4 auto... first locked up,, sliding the rear wheels a bit and then reversed the engine direction. Stalling the engine... as it would not run backwards... we came to an abrupt halt. After cleaning out our underwear, I put it in park and tired to start the engine and hear loud sucking sounds while cranking with no firing.

Opened hood and found all the vacum lines blown off including the 1 inch power brake booster line coming off the engine. Plugged em all back on and it fired up and down the road we went. Needless to say, we both thought it was a miracle that nothing was damaged.


----------



## compy222 (Apr 8, 2005)

SoTxBill said:


> yes.. btdi..
> 
> at 70 mph, a friend thought he would be funny and shift the console into neutral. But he pushed down on the lock out button as he pushed the shifter forward and slipped the car into reverse.
> 
> ...


that sounds spectacular. :laugh:


----------



## CodeMan (May 12, 2006)

Dark Zero said:


> Not sure if it's been discussed before. If I have a clean titled car and swap in a totally different engine, would the title now be a rebuilt one or equivalent or stay clean? I'm curious about the aspect of doing it right/legal than the ones driving around and never changing anything on documents. What would need to be changed or updated (Insurance? Title? Registration?). Unless there is no benefit or point?
> 
> Example: Swapped Civics; MKII GTi's w/ VR6's, Swapped E30's etc...


A rebuilt title is typically reserved for vehicles that have been issued a salvage title at some point and are now back on the raod.


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## Dark Zero (Feb 17, 2005)

CodeMan said:


> A rebuilt title is typically reserved for vehicles that have been issued a salvage title at some point and are now back on the raod.


I assumed that before but forgot to add it. At least now I know and won't assume .

This is probably a given, but what about insurance, especially changing to larger engines (4cyl to 6cyl)? I expect they would need to be updated if you want to have any claims on the different engine if in a wreck.


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## JeffIsLax (Mar 26, 2005)

A.Wilder said:


> A question: What kind of damage can you do from putting too much oil in the engine? over 1 quart, 2 quarts, etc.?


The amount of overfill that causes damage varies by engine. The point at which it causes damage is when the oil level reaches the counterweights on the crankshaft. When the oil level is that high, the counterweights begin beating oil in the pan like a hand mixer you would use in a kitchen. This cause the oil to become foam inside the oil pan. If it continues for too long, it is possible that the liquid level of oil in the pan could become lower than the oil pick up, and your oil pump would be sucking in air. Then, your engine would have little to no lubrication and would cause the same damage that an engine would experience after running with no oil (spun bearings, valvetrain damage, etc).


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## the brit (Jun 23, 2003)

A.Wilder said:


> A question: What kind of damage can you do from putting too much oil in the engine? over 1 quart, 2 quarts, etc.?





JeffIsLax said:


> The amount of overfill that causes damage varies by engine. The point at which it causes damage is when the oil level reaches the counterweights on the crankshaft. When the oil level is that high, the counterweights begin beating oil in the pan like a hand mixer you would use in a kitchen. This cause the oil to become foam inside the oil pan. If it continues for too long, it is possible that the liquid level of oil in the pan could become lower than the oil pick up, and your oil pump would be sucking in air. Then, your engine would have little to no lubrication and would cause the same damage that an engine would experience after running with no oil (spun bearings, valvetrain damage, etc).


I agree with that, and add that the catalytic convertor can be damaged too.


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## 302W (Jul 24, 2004)

Dark Zero said:


> Always expected it to be some huge issue, seems to not be the case. Figured if somehow the engine didn't match the VIN there would be a problem. Thanks guys.


At the height of the F&F ricer craze, cops in big cities were hassling people about swaps. Might not be the worst idea in the world to carry around a copy proof of purchase for your swap, not to mention it helps when selling the car too.

Also, holy crap at the overfilling oil. I knew it was bad but not for that reason.


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## BlueSuN (Aug 11, 2002)

What happens if I drive on the highway and suddenly I switch my automatic transmission from Drive to Backward? Is the transmission going to break or is there a mechanism preventing damage?


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## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

BlueSuN said:


> What happens if I drive on the highway and suddenly I switch my automatic transmission from Drive to Backward? Is the transmission going to break or is there a mechanism preventing damage?





SoTxBill said:


> yes.. btdi..
> 
> at 70 mph, a friend thought he would be funny and shift the console into neutral. But he pushed down on the lock out button as he pushed the shifter forward and slipped the car into reverse.
> 
> ...


Read the thread, first.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

BlueSuN said:


> What happens if I drive on the highway and suddenly I switch my automatic transmission from Drive to Backward? Is the transmission going to break or is there a mechanism preventing damage?


The result of a mechanical transmission was posted earlier, but I think an electronic controlled transmission would just ignore the input over a certain speed?

Also, I'm suprised if the engine was turning backwards, that it survived. A reverse-run oil pump is not pumping oil.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

SoTxBill said:


> yes.. btdi..
> 
> at 70 mph, a friend thought he would be funny and shift the console into neutral. But he pushed down on the lock out button as he pushed the shifter forward and slipped the car into reverse.
> 
> ...


May I be the first to call BS on this story. Since it was an automatic it's a fluid drive. The vanes in a torque converter are only meant to turn in one direction and would not have the strength to turn the engine backwards, especially with it initially running.

I'll eat crow if proved wrong, but this one doesn't pass the stink test.


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## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

barry2952 said:


> May I be the first to call BS on this story. Since it was an automatic it's a fluid drive. The vanes in a torque converter are only meant to turn in one direction and would not have the strength to turn the engine backwards, especially with it initially running.
> 
> I'll eat crow if proved wrong, but this one doesn't pass the stink test.


Well, from a rheological perspective (sorry, big word for the science of viscous fluids), it could happen. The vane design is optimized to turn in one direction, but under significant loading, it will go the other way. AFT fluids have some really funky characteristics under pressure that make them work properly, and under the conditions described, the pressure on the fluid would be enormous, and could lead to what would amount to gelling. That would lock the vanes right up, resulting in the converter spinning the crank backwards. 

This is not indisputable fact due to lack of knowledge of the exact TC design and the fluid used, but it is the result of a few years of tribology study.


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## digraph (Jul 23, 1999)

Does anyone, anywhere, even in Mazda marketing refer to the Miata, in everyday language as the MX-5?


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

atomicalex said:


> Well, from a rheological perspective (sorry, big word for the science of viscous fluids), it could happen. The vane design is optimized to turn in one direction, but under significant loading, it will go the other way. AFT fluids have some really funky characteristics under pressure that make them work properly, and under the conditions described, the pressure on the fluid would be enormous, and could lead to what would amount to gelling. That would lock the vanes right up, resulting in the converter spinning the crank backwards.
> 
> This is not indisputable fact due to lack of knowledge of the exact TC design and the fluid used, but it is the result of a few years of tribology study.


Did not think it was possible.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Mazda does.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

the brit said:


> I agree with that, and add that the catalytic convertor can be damaged too.


how does it damage the cat?


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

A.Wilder said:


> how does it damage the cat?


The car burns oil. i'm not sure exactly how (maybe the crank vent system backfills and it spits into the intake?).


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

ThreadBomber said:


> The map just means the time when timing advance, boost pressure and fuel delivery are engaged/started.


Building off this - (talking about how a chip can alter boost mapping). Isn't boost simply controlled by the mechanical action of the turbo (amount of air flowing through exhaust side)? How can electronics control that?


----------



## FlybyGLI (Jun 20, 2008)

How exactly does the posi-traction on the rear end of a plymouth work!?


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## JeffIsLax (Mar 26, 2005)

A.Wilder said:


> how does it damage the cat?


Via google, it seems like another way it could damage the cat is by splashing the cylinder walls with oil. I'm kind of on the fence about that one, because it seems like any oil that got to the wall would just get pulled down by the ring and not ever make it into the cylinder.

Also, via google, overfilling can cause a leaky front or rear main seal which splashes oil all over the engine bay or on the flywheel/clutch.


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## JeffIsLax (Mar 26, 2005)

FlybyGLI said:


> How exactly does the posi-traction on the rear end of a plymouth work!?


How exactly is a rainbow made? How exactly does the sun set? It just does.


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

sjt1985 said:


> Building off this - (talking about how a chip can alter boost mapping). Isn't boost simply controlled by the mechanical action of the turbo (amount of air flowing through exhaust side)? How can electronics control that?


It can change when the waste-gate opens, or (in VNT turbos) the geometry of the vanes.


----------



## a3lad (Aug 6, 2005)

JeffIsLax said:


> How exactly is a rainbow made? How exactly does the sun set?


fcking magnets


----------



## FlybyGLI (Jun 20, 2008)

JeffIsLax said:


> How exactly is a rainbow made? How exactly does the sun set? It just does.


Haha Im glad someone got that
:beer:


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## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

barry2952 said:


> Did not think it was possible.


Torque converters are funny things, for sure. :thumbup:


----------



## stascom (Sep 12, 2009)

Imagine a rally car power sliding around a long curve. Let's say the driver is in 2nd and bouncing off the rev limiter. The car starts oversteering. One could let off gas a bit, and let wheels catch some traction. Here's my question - alternatively to letting off gas, could you pull ebrake without letting off gas just enough to slow rear wheels down and let them get grip while keeping the front wheels spinning, thus pulling the rear end back in?


----------



## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

sjt1985 said:


> Building off this - (talking about how a chip can alter boost mapping). Isn't boost simply controlled by the mechanical action of the turbo (amount of air flowing through exhaust side)? How can electronics control that?


As stated above, they can control the wastgate. The turbo also spools mainy as a result of throttle input, more throttle = more fuel/air mixture = faster and harder spool. The programming introduces more fuel/timing/air at an earlier RPM which spools the turbo harder and faster.


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

FlybyGLI said:


> How exactly does the posi-traction on the rear end of a plymouth work!?


Positraction, IIRC, is just a limited-slip differential. When one wheel slips, it transfers the torque to the wheel with the most traction, unlike a normal open dif, which sends the torque to the path of least resistance. 

This may have been posted in this thread before, but it explains differentials so well, it's worth posting again (skip to 1:50 for the good stuff):


----------



## JeffIsLax (Mar 26, 2005)

MrMook said:


> Positraction, IIRC, is just a limited-slip differential. When one wheel slips, it transfers the torque to the wheel with the most traction, unlike a normal open dif, which sends the torque to the path of least resistance.


 Not exactly, it doesn't send torque to the wheel with most traction, ie all torque goes to the non slipping wheel, it locks both wheels together.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

JeffIsLax said:


> Not exactly, it doesn't send torque to the wheel with most traction, ie all torque goes to the non slipping wheel, it locks both wheels together.


So is it a locking (or permanently locked) diff like you might find on an offroad setup?


----------



## Bias_Ply (Feb 6, 2010)

BlueSuN said:


> What happens if I drive on the highway and suddenly I switch my automatic transmission from Drive to Backward? Is the transmission going to break or is there a mechanism preventing damage?


well, I don't know if there is anything to prevent damage, but the engine will stall and there will be no noticable damage, at least on a Chrysler 2.2/3sp auto..


don't tell my parents ok?


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

BlueSuN said:


> What happens if I drive on the highway and suddenly I switch my automatic transmission from Drive to Backward? Is the transmission going to break or is there a mechanism preventing damage?


Most new cars with computers will simply ignore your chosen gear selection.

Try downshifting to 2nd when you're doing about 90 MPH. It won't do it, but as soon as you slow to around 55 or 60 it will kick down.


----------



## JeffIsLax (Mar 26, 2005)

MrMook said:


> So is it a locking (or permanently locked) diff like you might find on an offroad setup?


It is different than a locking diff. When the wheels are driving the car normally, it acts like a normal differential allowing differential wheel rotation over corners, but inside an LSD there is some type of mechanism that locks the left and right wheel together when it detects differential wheel rotation over a certain point (25% is common, 50% is less common, and in the E21 world at least 75% is considered a "race" LSD). There are a few different types of limited slip differentials, such as clutch, viscous, and torsen (torque sensitive). Wikipedia has a pretty good writeup on how they all work: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limited_slip_differential


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## CostcoPizza (Jan 20, 2008)

Why hasn't there been a hybrid setup like this?

Battery pack to drive the car at all times (like Nissan Leaf)

Small displacement diesel/gas to charge batteries on board. 

The motor will basically act as a generator...


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Volt?


----------



## CostcoPizza (Jan 20, 2008)

VDub2625 said:


> Volt?


Does the gas motor drive the car at all?

I was thinking something that was driven by electric, and only used the motor to charge batteries, never to drive the car.

Iunno


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I don't believe the motor is connected to the wheels like a prius. It works exactly like you described. 

EDIT:
Wiki:
*The Volt operates as a pure battery electric vehicle until its plug-in battery capacity is depleted; at which point its gasoline engine powers an electric generator to extend the vehicle's range.* The Volt's regenerative braking also contributes to the on-board electricity generation. In order to improve performance, *the internal combustion engine may at times be engaged mechanically to assist both electric motors to propel the Volt.*

So, I guess it IS mechanically connected, but just for performance situations? Normal driving is battery first, ICE power boost second, ICE drive third? So ICE drive is a last resort but still possible.

EDIT 2: 
this is what you want:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Types_of_hybrid_vehicle#Series_hybrid


----------



## CostcoPizza (Jan 20, 2008)

Thanks

:beer:


----------



## compy222 (Apr 8, 2005)

sjt1985 said:


> Building off this - (talking about how a chip can alter boost mapping). Isn't boost simply controlled by the mechanical action of the turbo (amount of air flowing through exhaust side)? How can electronics control that?


simple actually, the part you're looking for is called a wastegate. this opens and closes to determine the amount of exhaust flowing over the hot-side (inducer) of the turbocharger. - you've got this bit figured out.

this wastegate is controlled by an electronic solenoid. the ecu requests a certain amount of boost, the solenoid then opens and closes the wastegate based on the flow/desired boost levels. 

wastegates can function externally (in fun cases, dumping directly to atmosphere) or return exhaust gas to the normal flow (though this isn't as efficient as backpressure can be generated). if you want some fun, look to see what youtube has for videos of external wastegates and two-step launch controller set-ups. :thumbup:


----------



## roccostud (Jun 7, 2002)

VDub2625 said:


> I don't believe the motor is connected to the wheels like a prius. It works exactly like you described.
> 
> EDIT:
> Wiki:
> ...


I know the Ford hybrid system has a mechanical connection to the wheels as does toyota and they other systems like thoes. I thought the big deal about the Volt was the tiny gas engine powered just a generator like a train with no mechanical connection to the wheels.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

That's what I thought too, but maybe it's different in that it only uses the engine to propel the car in high demand (pedal to the floor) situations, and 90% of your driving will be electricity based?


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

VDub2625 said:


> but maybe it's different in that it only uses the engine to propel the car in high demand *(pedal to the floor)* situations


So you're saying that 90% of Americans will have the Gas engine on 90% of the time? :laugh:


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

The best description I have heard of the Volt drivetrain is that the generator works like a locking torque converter. Instead of fluid, it uses electricity, and when really, truly, required, can mechanically lock.


----------



## JeffIsLax (Mar 26, 2005)

roccostud said:


> I thought the big deal about the Volt was the tiny gas engine powered just a generator like a train with no mechanical connection to the wheels.


If I remember correctly, that was the plan all through the early stages of design and engineering, changed their mind before launch. I don't think it's such a bad thing. The motor is in there anyway, why not make it a reserve for those times when the driver wants a little more oomph than the electric motor can provide and higher speeds.



atomicalex said:


> The best description I have heard of the Volt drivetrain is that the generator works like a locking torque converter. Instead of fluid, it uses electricity, and when really, truly, required, can mechanically lock.


I thought it was just a planetary gearset like the rest of them, they just had the power inputs set up differently so that the electric motor is the main driving force.


----------



## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

compy222 said:


> wastegate. this opens and closes to determine the amount of exhaust flowing over the hot-side (inducer) of the turbocharger.


Okay, so the wastegate will bleed out some of the excess pressure on the exhaust side - why would you want to do that? Wouldn't the car be faster if you used all the boost capabilities instead of wasting some?

PS. Drove a Speed3 for the first time yesterday. Awesome. :thumbup:


----------



## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

Too much boost = BOOM! blown engine.


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

Boost levels are limited to not only prevent too much power, but to keep knock and detonation in check. 
More boost = a higher charge temperature = higher required octane fuel, or bigger intercooelers, or less conventional charge cooling techniques like water injection.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

In my head it also makes sense that if you are forcing more air into the intake, when that comes out of the exhaust it'll boost even MORE air into the intake, thus ending up with a runaway boost situation. Isn't this why they have mechanical limiters on the intake and exhaust sides, in addition to electronic controls to fine tune it?


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

The difference in volume between intake and exhaust are almost completely based on fuel. Simply passing the volume of intake air through the exhaust side of a turbo will not generate any appreciable boost. (Think perpetual motion)

Mechanical limits on the intake side are to prevent a boost shock wave from slamming back on the compressor wheel when the throttle plate is abruptly shut. All that generated pressure needs to go somewhere.

That's why diesels don't need blow-off or bypass valves, on account of not having a throttle plate. On throttle closure (cutting fuel), excess boost is simply drawn into the engine, and since there is no fuel being added... it's then just passed out of the exhaust.


----------



## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

yes, without controls you will unwind you turbo. or spin it up too fast, and it will catastrophically fail.


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

Surf Green said:


> That's why diesels don't need blow-off or bypass valves, on account of not having a throttle plate.


I am always amused that the engines that actually use a functional "gas" pedal don't actually run on gasoline at all.


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

atomicalex said:


> I am always amused that the engines that actually use a functional "gas" pedal don't actually run on gasoline at all.


Imagine having to call it the "air letter inner flapper controller"


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Imagine calling it the "engine speed potentiometer, as requested by the driver" as that's all it is nowadays


----------



## cullam3n (Jun 4, 2009)

digraph said:


> Does anyone, anywhere, even in Mazda marketing refer to the Miata, in everyday language as the MX-5?


In my stint living in the UK, I have learned they are sold as MX-5s in Europe and sold as Roadsters in Japan.


----------



## ThatsGoodT (Jun 29, 2002)

In a previous Subaru XV thread the article said: "Along with the usual merits that horizontally-opposed engines inherently possess."

What are these merits? That's a sincere question... I haven't heard this comment before and am truly wondering about the implied advantages.


----------



## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

ThatsGoodT said:


> In a previous Subaru XV thread the article said: "Along with the usual merits that horizontally-opposed engines inherently possess."
> 
> What are these merits? That's a sincere question... I haven't heard this comment before and am truly wondering about the implied advantages.


Lower center of gravity, less vibration due to opposed pistons, etc.

Subaru propaganda:
http://www.subaru.com/engineering/boxer-engine.html


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I have also heard that a Subaru engine is not a true boxer, but a 180 degree flat Vee. What are the differences? Crank bearings or something? Sort of like the difference between a flat plane and regular V8?


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## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

adrew said:


> Lower center of gravity, less vibration due to opposed pistons, etc.
> 
> Subaru propaganda:
> http://www.subaru.com/engineering/boxer-engine.html


the only real lie in there is the omission of the inline 6 as a naturally balanced engine.


----------



## Beanboy (Aug 27, 2004)

*lanes question*

A road with three lanes goes down to two lanes.

The middle lane is lost, ie the left and right lanes line-up with the now two left and right lanes.

There's a rotary entrance from the left lane.

There's no signage or street markings regarding left turn only lane, or that a lane is being lost. Just three lanes are painted, then two lanes.

Accident occurs with two cars (one in left and one in center) both go for the now left only lane.

Who should have yielded?


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

Beanboy said:


> A road with three lanes goes down to two lanes.
> 
> The middle lane is lost, ie the left and right lanes line-up with the now two left and right lanes.
> 
> ...


There is no missing dollar.





I'm gonna need a picture for this one pal.


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## Beanboy (Aug 27, 2004)

sjt1985 said:


> There is no missing dollar.
> 
> I'm gonna need a picture for this one pal.


Lower left, yellow is in middle lane of three lanes, the right lane marker is hidden under the yellow. Upper right, the yellow is shown in the right lane of what is now a two lane road.

There's no signs or street markings showing the loss of a lane. 

Some folks say the exit/reverse direction entrance on the left lane means that lane ends. However, you can see that the left lane directly lines up farther up the road. Middle lane is what gets squeezed out.


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

I had an old (86) firebird when I was a kid. It was a 2.8 v6, with exhaust and a cam at first. It was an automatic. The shifter went:
P
R
(D)
D
2
1
So, basically, 1234. I used to put it in 1, and shift into 2 when I wanted to, etc. I also used to downshift the same way. Was that bad for the transmission(700r4)?


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

Beanboy said:


> Lower left, yellow is in middle lane of three lanes, the right lane marker is hidden under the yellow. Upper right, the yellow is shown in the right lane of what is now a two lane road.
> 
> There's no signs or street markings showing the loss of a lane.
> 
> Some folks say the exit/reverse direction entrance on the left lane means that lane ends. However, you can see that the left lane directly lines up farther up the road. Middle lane is what gets squeezed out.


I say whoever is entering from the 'rotary' or whatever you call it needs to yield to the lanes that are going straight. But yes, there needs to be signage. In the neighborhood I grew up in there were uncontrolled intersections where nobody would have a stop or a yield. I always wondered what would happen if there was a wreck there.


----------



## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

Sorry for the bad image but I always wondered what those yellow-ish green plastic triangles are on each one of the wheel nuts (on buses)

I take the bus every day  and see them constantly without really knowing what they are.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

I've wondered that myself but have concluded they have something to do with lug nut tightness. If one were to come loose it would point in a different direction. I'm just guessing.


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## 1.8Tquattro (Aug 13, 2006)

barry2952 said:


> I've wondered that myself but have concluded they have something to do with lug nut tightness. If one were to come loose it would point in a different direction. I'm just guessing.


This has always been my assumption as well.


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## Turq (Nov 9, 2001)

barry2952 said:


> I've wondered that myself but have concluded they have something to do with lug nut tightness. If one were to come loose it would point in a different direction. I'm just guessing.


You are correct. 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loose_wheel_nut_indicator


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## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

Hurt said:


> I had an old (86) firebird when I was a kid. It was a 2.8 v6, with exhaust and a cam at first. It was an automatic. The shifter went:
> P
> R
> (D)
> ...


The short answer is no, not particularly bad.


----------



## 2Cor (Feb 18, 2003)

What's the difference between a sequential gearbox and non-sequential? Are non-sequential even sold in consumer vehicles anymore? I used to know the answer to the first question but I forgot. Is sequential referring to the synchromesh?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I know that there are different types of autos, some that can pick any gear they need on demand, and some that need to sequentially shift through gears to get to the one they need (for example, driving in 4th cruising on the highway and floor it, some need to downshift to third then second, some can go straight to second).

I'm not sure what the term means in a sequential manual though (SMG). Maybe because you only have - and +, you're forced to go sequentially (which isn't as bad in a sequential manual since the shift is usually lightining fast, unlike a conventional auto where waiting for 2 downshifts is a lengthy process).


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

2Cor said:


> What's the difference between a sequential gearbox and non-sequential? Are non-sequential even sold in consumer vehicles anymore? I used to know the answer to the first question but I forgot. Is sequential referring to the synchromesh?


I think sequential means you have to go in order. So you can't quick shift from 1-3. you have to go 1-2-3. etc. I could be wrong, but that is what i think it means. which is why they just have a stick or button for up/down instead of a stick that lets you choose the gear.


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## Lifelong Obsession (Jul 24, 2011)

1. Why do only Jeeps suffer from "death wobble"? I've looked it up on Wikipedia ("speed wobble"), and it has something to do with their suspension design, but I don't understand why most cars are *not affected* by this. (I'm not an engineer.)

2. On the "favorite VAG product of all time" thread, someone said,_ "have I been living under a rock? why would people consider the 959 or 993 a VAG produced product?"_. I don't get this either. I know about how Porsche has a huge share in VW now, but that is a more recent phenomenon. Also, I know that the 914 and 924 were VW/Porsche collaborations, but the 959 and 993?


----------



## Cousin Eddie (Dec 17, 2005)

Lifelong Obsession said:


> 1. Why do only Jeeps suffer from "death wobble"? I've looked it up on Wikipedia ("speed wobble"), and it has something to do with their suspension design, but I don't understand why most cars are *not affected* by this. (I'm not an engineer.)


It's actually possible on any solid front axle vehicle where the steering set up the same way or similar. It has to do with the triangulation of the long tie-rod, drag link and other steering components. Common causes are usually worn tie-rod outers, ball-joints, wheel bearings or mis-alignment due to odd steering angles as a result of suspension modification (this is why it's most common on Jeeps). It is also very common on other Chrysler products with the same steering setup (mid to late 90's Dodge ram pick-ups for example or even Grand Cherokees, I know they're Jeeps but not in the traditional sense.)


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

2Cor said:


> What's the difference between a sequential gearbox and non-sequential? Are non-sequential even sold in consumer vehicles anymore? I used to know the answer to the first question but I forgot. Is sequential referring to the synchromesh?


It just means you have to hit every gear shifting up or down. As for cosumer vehicles that have them, 99% of motorcycles are equipped with sequential gearboxes.


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## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

Lifelong Obsession said:


> 2. On the "favorite VAG product of all time" thread, someone said,_ "have I been living under a rock? why would people consider the 959 or 993 a VAG produced product?"_. I don't get this either. I know about how Porsche has a huge share in VW now, but that is a more recent phenomenon. Also, I know that the 914 and 924 were VW/Porsche collaborations, but the 959 and 993?


porsche and VAG have always been close companies. nearly all the famous engineers that worked at one, worked at the other, and business wise they have always been close collaborations.


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## PDong (Oct 26, 2004)

cockerpunk said:


> porsche and VAG have always been close companies. nearly all the famous engineers that worked at one, worked at the other, and business wise they have always been close collaborations.


But in this case they were messing with you and having a laugh. The 993 and 959 did not have cross development, they were making a joke about the merger.


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## A1pocketrocket (Jan 28, 2002)

Lifelong Obsession said:


> 1. Why do only Jeeps suffer from "death wobble"? I've looked it up on Wikipedia ("speed wobble"), and it has something to do with their suspension design, but I don't understand why most cars are *not affected* by this. (I'm not an engineer.)


this is a terrible term coined by Jeep forum warriors. It is attributed to many different things, all with different symptoms and different fixes. I deal with it day in and day out, being an employee at the company that builds the most popular aftermarket heavy duty steering setup and I have serious issues with the term 'death wobble'.


----------



## Ghost85 (Aug 12, 2006)

ThatsGoodT said:


> In a previous Subaru XV thread the article said: "Along with the usual merits that horizontally-opposed engines inherently possess."
> 
> What are these merits? That's a sincere question... I haven't heard this comment before and am truly wondering about the implied advantages.




One thing is less wear on the cylinder walls, due to the fact that the pistons don't need to fight gravity.


----------



## JeffIsLax (Mar 26, 2005)

Ghost85 said:


> One thing is less wear on the cylinder walls, due to the fact that the pistons don't need to fight gravity.


If anything, wouldn't a boxer potentially cause uneven wear on the cylinder walls, because that the lower half receives most of the friction? If that is actually a factor, it seems like it would be a disadvantage for horizontal cylinders.


----------



## ktk (Jun 29, 2009)

ThatsGoodT said:


> In a previous Subaru XV thread the article said: "Along with the usual merits that horizontally-opposed engines inherently possess."
> 
> What are these merits? That's a sincere question... I haven't heard this comment before and am truly wondering about the implied advantages.





Ghost85 said:


> One thing is less wear on the cylinder walls, due to the fact that the pistons don't need to fight gravity.





I don't think that is necessarily true. The pistons are lying down on their sides. In a no load situation they would drag their rings across the bottom of the cylinder under the weight of the piston and rod assembly. Under load during engine operation sideloading during expansion stroke would overwhelmingly negate any no load forces.

The main benefits of boxer orientation is the natural harmonic balance of the configuration and the lower center of gravity (at the cost of width and ease of access)


----------



## ttvick (Aug 15, 2007)

Aside from anything traffic-accident related, what are the risks involved in teaching someone to drive stick in your car?

I taught my girlfriend how to drive stick in my Mini Cooper, and after a few lessons she had the basics down, but was still pretty, shall we say, inconsistent. We went out once in the S2000 (which I bought after selling the Mini), and she got pretty frustrated because it's pretty different to drive from the Mini and she couldn't get the hang of it. The other thing is that the S2000 reacts much more before stalling. It sounds worse and feels more violent. She could tell I was cringing every time, and has politely refused to try again since.

So, my question is this: Aside from accidents, excessive clutch wear and the possibility of a money-shift or grinding gears (she has not done any of these, she just stalls a lot from trying to get off the clutch too quickly), what would the associated risks to my car be from giving this another shot?


----------



## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

Why do so many screamingly interdependently people write V4 when the engine is amphibiously an inline 4?


----------



## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

BRealistic said:


> Why do so many screamingly interdependently people write V4 when the engine is amphibiously an inline 4?


Because most people have no clue what the V stands for.


----------



## AutoUnion32 (Oct 4, 2008)

MightyDSM said:


> Because most people have no clue what the V stands for.


bingo


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## ttvick (Aug 15, 2007)

BRealistic said:


> Why do so many screamingly interdependently people write V4 when the engine is amphibiously an inline 4?


Hmm... I don't know, but I will admit to occasionally throwing "V6" out in conversation when I know full well that the engine in question is in fact a flat 6 or I6. 

Edit: Anybody want to go back and answer my question?


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## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

ttvick said:


> So, my question is this: Aside from accidents, excessive clutch wear and the possibility of a money-shift or grinding gears (she has not done any of these, she just stalls a lot from trying to get off the clutch too quickly), what would the associated risks to my car be from giving this another shot?


Eventually it will wear out your clutch or throwout bearing. Other more serious things: maybe worn synchros?

Get a taser. Everytime she stalls, zap her.

I'm kidding, don't do that.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

ttvick said:


> So, my question is this: Aside from accidents, excessive clutch wear and the possibility of a money-shift or grinding gears (she has not done any of these, she just stalls a lot from trying to get off the clutch too quickly), what would the associated risks to my car be from giving this another shot?


You pretty much have it all. Only differences are that she has to operate the clutch and shifter. Even then, the wear will probably be minimal as she already has some experience and basically just needs tons of encouragement to pick it up (learning to drive a stick is all about failing- it's where you learn how the gas and clutch are associated, and where the clutch lets off, so she needs to know that what she's doing isn't bad, it's part of the process). Shifter is fairly standard to pick up in any car.


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## ttvick (Aug 15, 2007)

MightyDSM said:


> Eventually it will wear out your clutch or throwout bearing. Other more serious things: maybe worn synchros?
> 
> Get a taser. Everytime she stalls, zap her.
> 
> I'm kidding, don't do that.


So are we saying that if she stalls it 10 times in half an hour, she's not doing any real permanent damage? With the Mini it seemed pretty inconsequential, but the S2000... I dunno, it was about to make me poop my pants sitting there.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

MightyDSM said:


> Eventually it will wear out your clutch or throwout bearing. Other more serious things: maybe worn synchros?


The TO bearing won't get any extra wear than it would if ytou sat at idle with your foot on the clutch the whole time. The syncros should be ok as long as she doesn't ram it into gear, and there is no grinding (the grinding you hear isn't the gear itself, it's the syncro, that's the only part that moves, gears are always "connected"). 

Excessive stalling shouldn't hurt anything. It's just like turning the car off and on over and over. if she's stalling, she isn't slipping the clutch, so the clutch should be ok. In fact, urge her to slip the clutch more. She seems to be afraid of wearing it out, assure her she won't cause any problems. She'll get it quickly then. (also point out that the clutch is more agressive and more "on/off" than the mini, she needs to focus on that sweet engagement spot, and maybe some more gas too). A burnout is the exact opposite of what she's doing now (more slip, more gas, less scaredyness ). maybe teach her to do one pof those first?


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## swa5000 (Jun 14, 2004)

2.0_Mazda said:


> Sorry for the bad image but I always wondered what those yellow-ish green plastic triangles are on each one of the wheel nuts (on buses)
> 
> I take the bus every day  and see them constantly without really knowing what they are.


x2 :wave:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

swa5000 said:


> x2 :wave:


That was answered like 3 posts later. If a lug loosens, the pointer just hangs there instead of being held in place.


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## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

ttvick said:


> Aside from anything traffic-accident related, what are the risks involved in teaching someone to drive stick in your car?


Only to pride, usually.

Get her out of the S2000 and back in the Mini. Encourage her to do the foot/hand thing outside of the car. Get her to do no-gas friction point drills for 10 minutes at a time. She just has to build muscle memory and confidence. And remind her that you didn't learn overnight, either. Even if you did.


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## ttvick (Aug 15, 2007)

atomicalex said:


> Only to pride, usually.
> 
> Get her out of the S2000 and back in the Mini. Encourage her to do the foot/hand thing outside of the car. Get her to do no-gas friction point drills for 10 minutes at a time. She just has to build muscle memory and confidence. And remind her that you didn't learn overnight, either. Even if you did.


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## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

Goddamn it, the thread disappeared. We had an excellent thread on teaching GFs to drive stick, but it got lost. I will contact the admins.

It had two excellent methods that have been proven out over and over - mine and I think Rukh's. Both are similar - start with friction point drills (one pedal). Add brakes (two pedals). Add gas (three pedals). Lots of out-of-car practice of the clutch-brake-gas interplay and the shifter pattern. Using speed bumps to get the clutch/gas thing down. Learning to reverse by feathering the clutch. Hills with handbrake. Hills with clutch. Reversing up hills.


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## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

What does it mean when they say a car is "monocoque" design?


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## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

Unitbody. Fancy french word for it, thanks to Citroen.


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## TetsuoShima (Nov 30, 2008)

So..is the Mazda 3 really just called the 3? Same with the 6? Or are the actual model names Mazda 3 and Mazda 6?

So it'd be like...I drive a Mazda Mazda 3?


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## WeeTony (Jun 21, 2010)

mazda3 is the name. So yeah, a mazda mazda3 techincally. zoom zoom.

My question:

What is "big ends" ? No joke. I have a small engine on my desk, that I made (Haynes - christmas present) and I get cylinders, pistons, cams, rockers, sparks, valves, exhaust. I understand fuel injection, and I get how a carburettor works.

But I keep hearing folk saying "oooh bigens is gone" (they usually pronounce like it's one word)

Thanks in advance for burying this, it's been ages


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## 302W (Jul 24, 2004)

Wow, never heard that phrase in the US


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

WeeTony said:


> mazda3 is the name. So yeah, a mazda mazda3 techincally. zoom zoom.
> 
> My question:
> 
> ...



does the engine turn?

usually, "big ends" is in regards to the big end bearings in the engine (connecting rod, specifically). once these are gone, you'll need to do a rebuild to replace the bearings and you'll have to likely regrind and polish the races, too.

the connecting rod has 2 ends; the small end (piston side) and the "big end" (on the crank side).

when the big end bearings go bad, you can usually hear it.

which is why i was asking if the engine turns... maybe they hear something you don't and they're letting you know it's time for a rebuild.

here's a picture to help visualize:


----------



## WeeTony (Jun 21, 2010)




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## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

WeeTony said:


> mazda3 is the name. So yeah, a mazda mazda3 techincally. zoom zoom.












Doesn't really make sense to repeat the manufacture name twice


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## .:FrankRizzo:. (Jul 12, 2008)

I think he is right that technically it is a Mazda Mazda3, and I drive a Mazda Mazdaspeed3. But who knows. My insurance card says I drive "08 Mazda 3 (yr/make/model)"


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

It really is true. Mazda Mazda2, Mazda3, Mazda5, Mazda6.


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## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

VDub2625 said:


> It really is true. Mazda Mazda2, Mazda3, Mazda5, Mazda6.


The idea behind this is 'brand awareness'. If I drive a 'Protege' that gives no brand recognition to Mazda. If I drive a 'Mazda3' then Mazda gets word-of-mouth every time, guaranteed. 

That's also why a lot of manufactures switch to alpha-numeric car names. It's to get people to mention the manufacturer with the model name. Mazda just is way more direct about it.


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## freedomweasel (Apr 15, 2010)

Smigelski said:


> That's also why a lot of manufactures switch to alpha-numeric car names. It's to get people to mention the manufacturer with the model name. Mazda just is way more direct about it.


Never thought about that. Good point.


----------



## IC AI (Aug 29, 2008)

When I see how easy it is to do magnetic levitation, I wonder why we don't see that used in car axles. If friction is the biggest source of wasted power, it should help no?


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

I would think that air resistance creates greater losses than a pair of bearings.


----------



## Brett92 (Nov 20, 2002)

Sometimes I make U-turns on red lights. Not sure why, but I guess something clicks in my head that it isn't against the law (although I'm sure it is), maybe it's because I'm not actually going out into the intersection. 

Does anyone else do this? 

I saw a cop do it, but cops do lots of things. I actually did it one day and a cop was 1 car behind me and didn't do anything. Maybe he didn't see me.


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Brett92 said:


> Sometimes I make U-turns on red lights. Not sure why, but I guess something clicks in my head that it isn't against the law (although I'm sure it is), maybe it's because I'm not actually going out into the intersection.
> 
> Does anyone else do this?
> 
> I saw a cop do it, but cops do lots of things. I actually did it one day and a cop was 1 car behind me and didn't do anything. Maybe he didn't see me.


If you weren't in the intersection and it wasn't marked in any way, I don't see how you broke the law.


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

IC AI said:


> When I see how easy it is to do magnetic levitation, I wonder why we don't see that used in car axles. If friction is the biggest source of wasted power, it should help no?


I haven't run the numbers, but the size of those magnets would have to be huge to support the weight of a car. Large magnets would be heavy and expensive. It would also be difficult to integrate suspension into it.


----------



## IC AI (Aug 29, 2008)

sjt1985 said:


> I haven't run the numbers, but the size of those magnets would have to be huge to support the weight of a car. Large magnets would be heavy and expensive. It would also be difficult to integrate suspension into it.


Not necessarily support the whole weight. Just alleviate some.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

IC AI said:


> Not necessarily support the whole weight. Just alleviate some.


Weight is a minor factor in drag. Accelerating the mass is what takes most of the energy.


----------



## TetsuoShima (Nov 30, 2008)

Can someone explain to me what straight-cut gears are and when/why they should be used?


----------



## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

TetsuoShima said:


> Can someone explain to me what straight-cut gears are and when/why they should be used?












Straight cut on the left, helical on the right. I'm pretty sure they use them in reverse gears. Helicals are preferred due to more contact area, and as they come together it is more 'fluid'.

However, straight cut gears are cheaper and easier to manufacture.

Edit from Wiki: 



> The angled teeth engage more gradually than do spur gear teeth causing them to run more smoothly and quietly. [6] With parallel helical gears, each pair of teeth first make contact at a single point at one side of the gear wheel; a moving curve of contact then grows gradually across the tooth face to a maximum then recedes until the teeth break contact at a single point on the opposite side. In spur gears teeth suddenly meet at a line contact across their entire width causing stress and noise. Spur gears make a characteristic whine at high speeds. Whereas spur gears are used for low speed applications and those situations where noise control is not a problem, the use of helical gears is indicated when the application involves high speeds, large power transmission, or where noise abatement is important. The speed is considered to be high when the pitch line velocity exceeds 25 m/s.[7]


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

TetsuoShima said:


> Can someone explain to me what straight-cut gears are and when/why they should be used?


From my understanding they both have the same mechanical advantage. I believe the spiral cut is for noise and wear.


----------



## TetsuoShima (Nov 30, 2008)

sjt1985 said:


> Straight cut on the left, helical on the right. I'm pretty sure they use them in reverse gears. Helicals are preferred due to more contact area, and as they come together it is more 'fluid'.
> 
> However, straight cut gears are cheaper and easier to manufacture.





barry2952 said:


> From my understanding they both have the same mechanical advantage. I believe the spiral cut is for noise and wear.


Thanks:beer:


----------



## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

TetsuoShima said:


> Can someone explain to me what straight-cut gears are and when/why they should be used?


They are basically that, straight-cut, instead of helical and they are stronger. They are also much louder than helical gears. In most cars the reverse gear is straight cut. Supposedly, they also have less parasitic drag.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

I believe that helical cuts in transmission gears is to aid in full engagement as the rotation would make a helical gear slide into place easier. That's not a necessity for reverse.


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## Professor Gascan (Sep 11, 2002)

MightyDSM said:


> They are basically that, straight-cut, instead of helical and they are stronger. They are also much louder than helical gears. In most cars the reverse gear is straight cut.


Straight cut gears aren't any stronger. The actual strength rating between them and helical gears is pretty similar. Helical gears have better power transfer due to more teeth being in contact at any one time, which does make them quieter, as well as increase their pitting resistance. 

Straight cuts are preferred in racing applications for one reason: they produce next to no thrust loading (unlike a helical gear.) The lack of thrust allows you to build a much smaller and lighter transmission case, since your bearings need to be sized for radial loads only. The disadvantage is the massive amount of noise they produce, which would be unacceptable in a road car.


----------



## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

Professor Gascan said:


> Straight cut gears aren't any stronger. The actual strength rating between them and helical gears is pretty similar. Helical gears have better power transfer due to more teeth being in contact at any one time, which does make them quieter, as well as increase their pitting resistance.
> 
> Straight cuts are preferred in racing applications for one reason: they produce next to no thrust loading (unlike a helical gear.) The lack of thrust allows you to build a much smaller and lighter transmission case, since your bearings need to be sized for radial loads only. The disadvantage is the massive amount of noise they produce, which would be unacceptable in a road car.


Thanks for the explanation. :thumbup:


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## JeffIsLax (Mar 26, 2005)

Another advantage of straight-cut gears is that they are easier to model in Pro/ENGINEER when your CAD professor assigns a gearbox project. :laugh:


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## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

One more thing about the straight-cut gear box: isn't this the only type of gear box that allows "clutch-less" shifting?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

JeffIsLax said:


> Another advantage of straight-cut gears is that they are easier to model in Pro/ENGINEER when your CAD professor assigns a gearbox project. :laugh:


CAD didn't exist when I took Drafting and Architectural Drawing.:banghead:


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

The gearbox on my '33 Flyer has no syncros and all straight-cut gears.


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

barry2952 said:


> I believe that helical cuts in transmission gears is to aid in full engagement as the rotation would make a helical gear slide into place easier. That's not a necessity for reverse.


Actually each transmission gear is in full contact at all times. The helical parts of the gears never disengage.


----------



## Sold Over Sticker (Nov 29, 2009)

Professor Gascan said:


> Straight cut gears aren't any stronger. The actual strength rating between them and helical gears is pretty similar. Helical gears have better power transfer due to more teeth being in contact at any one time, which does make them quieter, as well as increase their pitting resistance.
> 
> Straight cuts are preferred in racing applications for one reason: they produce next to no thrust loading (unlike a helical gear.) The lack of thrust allows you to build a much smaller and lighter transmission case, since your bearings need to be sized for radial loads only. The disadvantage is the massive amount of noise they produce, which would be unacceptable in a road car.


:beer::beer::thumbup: Best TCL post I've seen in awhile. I should hang out in this thread more often. 



MightyDSM said:


> One more thing about the straight-cut gear box: isn't this the only type of gear box that allows "clutch-less" shifting?


You can clutchless shift any manual. Difference as I understand is in the design of the dogs. When you see a racing gearbox taken apart, there usually are 4-6 dogs, as opposed to a road car, which have a long ring of dogs around the gear. Larger dogs take the impact of changing gear better. 

Above is subject to confirmation by someone who understands gearboxes better than I do. Any manual can be shifted without the clutch, but a better/clearer explanation of the dogs would be appreciated.

For reference:









In this semi helical cut box, you can see 5 dogs per main gear, where as a helical cut synchro box will have numerous smaller dogs around the main gear. 

Here is a helical cut synchro box, with the numerous dogs around the gear. 










If I've made a mistake explaining this, please feel free to correct me. :beer:


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> Above is subject to confirmation by someone who understands gearboxes better than I do. Any manual can be shifted without the clutch, but a better/clearer explanation of the dogs would be appreciated.


Yes, any manual can be shifted without the clutch. The trick is that the input shaft needs to be rotating at the same speed as the lay shaft. This can be done by rev matching.


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## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

sjt1985 said:


> Actually each transmission gear is in full contact at all times. The helical parts of the gears never disengage.


even automatics??


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

2.0_Mazda said:


> even automatics??


Automatics were created by wizards and nobody actually knows how they work.  The above applies to manuals only.


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## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> :
> You can clutchless shift any manual. Difference as I understand is in the design of the dogs. When you see a racing gearbox taken apart, there usually are 4-6 dogs, as opposed to a road car, which have a long ring of dogs around the gear. Larger dogs take the impact of changing gear better.





sjt1985 said:


> Yes, any manual can be shifted without the clutch. The trick is that the input shaft needs to be rotating at the same speed as the lay shaft. This can be done by rev matching.


Wouldn't it grind if you tried to do it with a regular manual?


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## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

sjt1985 said:


> Automatics were created by wizards and nobody actually knows how they work.  The above applies to manuals only.


okay thanks


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

MightyDSM said:


> Wouldn't it grind if you tried to do it with a regular manual?


Only if the shafts weren't spinning at the same time. It would be extremely difficult to get your engine to match the driveshaft speed _exactly_ which is why the clutch comes in handy.


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## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

sjt1985 said:


> Only if the shafts weren't spinning at the same time. It would be extremely difficult to get your engine to match the driveshaft speed _exactly_ which is why the clutch comes in handy.


Ah, makes sense. Thanks. :thumbup:


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## Sold Over Sticker (Nov 29, 2009)

MightyDSM said:


> Wouldn't it grind if you tried to do it with a regular manual?


Unload the gearbox (basically, a throttle setting that maintains speed or a very light deceleration), and you can pull the shifter into neutral. If you're downshifting, rev the engine to the correct speed in the lower gear, and then select the gear. 

As long as the input shaft is spinning the same speed as the lay shaft (or in simple terms, you have the engine spinning at the right RPM for the gear selection before you select the gear), it'll slot right in. 

Get the rpm's off by a lot, and when you try to select the gear it won't go in. Get it off by a little, and it'll grind a touch as it goes in. Get it right, and it'll slot right into gear without issue. 

Note that gears are usually case hardened, so try not to get the rpms wrong and grind often, as if you beat up the harder case, you'll expose the soft metal inside, and wear the gear out in a hurry.


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

sjt1985 said:


> Automatics were created by wizards and nobody actually knows how they work.  The above applies to manuals only.


So sig worthy :beer:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Syncros allow the speeds to be different but still shift. Do this, and you won't hurt your car (don't do it too often), and it should give you a better feel for the syncros functioning:

While driving (on a flat, straight road to make it less complicated), go a given speed in a gear (say, 30 in second), and keep the car at a steady pace. Pull it out of gear (without clutching), and as you do, keep the revs the same. Then push it toward (but don't force it into) third (again, without clutching) until you feel the syncros stop you. Then let the revs slowly fall, and at the point that the gear is turning the right speed, you'll feel the gear slip right in. (this is basically rev matching but instead of knowing the engine speed ahead of time, you let it fall into range so you can feel the gear engage, which you normally can't when clutch shifting)

This is how it works: Each "gear" is a combination of input side (machined into or part of the input shaft so to always be spinning with it), output side (which rides on a bearing on the output shaft, and is always engaged, and has 2 sets of "teeth", one for the input gear and one for the collar to come into contact with), the syncro (which is free rotating but rides up against the output gear), and the sliding collar (which rides on teeth fixed to the output shaft, and slides over the syncro and output side of the gear, thus locking the gear and output shaft together when engaged).

The transmission can be thought of having 3 separate rotating speeds. The input shaft speed, the output shaft speed, and the third is the flywheel speed (matched to the input shaft when the clutch is disengaged). All the gears are always in contact, locked to the input shaft, but the ones that aren't currently engaged are not locked to the output shaft, they just spin around it on a bearing. Normally, as you push the shift lever into gear, the lever pushes the fork, which pushes a sliding collar (which is always engaged to the output shaft) over the gear's syncro (a secondary piece of metal between the input and output secondary teeth). The syncro (made of brass) "rubs" on the gear itself, and as you push, the syncro "spins up" the input shaft (remember, clutch is engaged so it has no load and the tiny syncro can adjust it's speed easily), in the fraction of a second it takes for the collar to slide over the teeth on the syncro and gear, locking them together. Then power is transferred through the gears, from input to output. 

When you grind, it's because you force the collar over the syncro or gear's teeth, usually because the syncro hasn't had enough time to spin up the shaft, or the clutch is out and the shaft's speed will not adjust. The reason the procedure I explained above works is, when you lightly push the stick toward a gear, the syncro won't let it engage until the rotational speeds are the same, and when the revs on the engine fall into that range, it easily slides in and engages. THis is why you need special fluids for certian transmissions too. The act of the syncro rubbing on the gear requires friction to be transferred to spin up the shaft. if the fluid is 'too slippery", this won't happen fast enough and you'll get grinding when cold or kickback as the syncro suddenly slides before the gear is fully engaged.

I wish I had pictures or a video to explain it. The inside of a transmission is so fascinating from an engineering standpoint. i'd suggest howstuffworks for further explanation. Just remember that the syncros, sliding collar, and secondary teeth play important roles in gear selection, and the teeth of the gear ONLY transfer power, nothing more. 

(I know I didn't use any proper terminology but I hope I got my idea across. this is written as I understand it from a VW transmission with brass syncros, there are other designs out there but i don't know how they work  I had the lucky expirence of assembling a broken transmission from a box of parts and if you are really interested, i suggest getting a hold of something like that to see it in action)

Another interesting thing about transmissions is that 2 opposing gears share the same sliding collar, thus the H pattern we know and love. For example, the 1/2 collar slides forward over the 1st gear syncro/gear for 1st, then backward for the 2nd gear syncro/gear. When the stick is moved over to 3/4, a second fork/collar set is engaged for forward/back engagement of 3rd and 4th. 5 speeds only have a one way sliding collar for 5th, but this is how 6 gear bolt on kits can be allowed: they just provide a space for the 5th gear collar to slide back over a 6th gear. Reverse is non-syncronized and straight cut, it works by physically sliding a gear into another gear, so this is why it should ONLY be engaged while completely stopped (and, if you do it too soon after engaging the clutch, before the shaft has a chance to spin down, it'll still grind).

And yes, automatics are made of magic and I don't begin to understand their theory.

here is a really awesome picture of the collar (top), on the output shaft teeth (which the collar is sitting on, the gear is disengaged currently), the brass syncro, and the engagement teeth, and the actual gear teeth below (just barely visible). The groove in the collar is where the fork pulls and pushes it. The collar locks these three sets of teeth together to transfer power.









here's a good example of the output shaft, with the collar showing that it slides both ways for different gear engagement.


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## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

VDub2625 said:


> And yes, automatics are made of magic and I don't begin to understand their theory.


I guess they're just like turbochargers...witchcraft


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

Vdub2625 did a great job on the writeup. I would like to add a few things. I picked up an early 90's civic trans (for free) because they 'lost 3rd gear'. I just wanted to take it apart and see what was going on inside. Here are some pics I just shot for you guys.

This is a pic of the gear (helical) and dog teeth. 









Here is a pic of the synchro.









The smooth shiny part of this piece is where the synchro sits. It may be difficult to see, but it is slightly conical (and the inside of the synchro is conical to mate with it.)









Here you can see the synchro sitting on the gear. 









This is the collar which engages the teeth on the synchro and the gear. The shift fork slides around the slots on the collar. (pics of shift fork later)









This is what one of the shafts looks like when neither of the gears is selected.









Here I slid the collar to the RIGHT (which would engage that gear). First, the collar would push onto the synchro and push it toward the gear. This would cause the mating conical portion of the synchro to rub with the gear, and matching the speed because of the friction. Also note the shiny gear under the collar. That is how the load is transferred between shafts. 









Here are some shift forks. Notice the tine is broken off on the right fork. That is why they 'lost' 3rd gear. :beer:









Hope this helps


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Thanks for the pics. Dog teeth! That's the term I forgot :banghead:

The thing that people 9at least, me) find confusing is that power flow is not directly from input to output gear. The power flows to the output gear, then through the sliding collar which is locked to the output shaft. Without the collar slid over the dog teeth, the gear cannot transfer power.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

:thumbup::beer:


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## Sold Over Sticker (Nov 29, 2009)

:heart: this page.


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## alexsaun16v (Mar 8, 2007)

what is a muffler bearing and why does the dealer charge me so much for it?


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## Sold Over Sticker (Nov 29, 2009)

alexsaun16v said:


> what is a muffler bearing and why does the dealer charge me so much for it?


Because your Id10T light is still on. :laugh:


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## freedomweasel (Apr 15, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> :heart: this page.


:thumbup: 

Awesome! I'm definitely a visual person, so seeing the innards of something like this helps me out a lot. Thanks for all the pictures and explanations. Most of what I've found before has just been cartoony drawings combined with "a shift fork selects a gear and power is transferred to the wheels", which clearly skips out on some important steps.

One question, the shift fork "tines", where they grip the collar, do they have some sort of material or coating on them to allow the collar to rotate easily?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Nope, it's just metal on metal coated in oil. Oil can protect the crank bearings under the forces of the piston being pushed down by the explosion, it can handle that too 

Also, the forks in a VW are simple stamped steel bent into shape. Interesting to see Honda went with aluminum. They look a lot larger than VW, but with the possibility of breaking like that...


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## Chiropractor JW (Oct 4, 2009)

On my third car with manual tranny. What exactly is "heel-toe" and what exactly is "rev matching?" Thanks!


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## Sold Over Sticker (Nov 29, 2009)

Chiropractor JW said:


> On my third car with manual tranny. What exactly is "heel-toe" and what exactly is "rev matching?" Thanks!


Rev matching is a downshifting technique. You know how you lift the throttle to let the rpm's drop when you upshift? Rev matching is the opposite. Lets drive down an imaginary road at 30mph in 2nd gear. 

If I want third gear, I clutch in, lift the throttle, shift to third, pull the clutch out, and add throttle. Engine RPM's have dropped from 4,000 rpm to 3,000 rpm. 

Rev matching is the opposite. I'm in third gear, and I want second gear. I clutch in, add throttle till I go from 3,000 rpm to 4,000 rpm, select second gear, and clutch out. 

You'll commonly hear it called "blipping the throttle" since you pretty much stab the throttle quickly to rev the engine the right rpm. I blip just past the rpm I want, and pull the clutch out as the rpms are falling to the right spot. 

Heel and toeing is that same thing, while making a braking input. On our same imaginary road in 3rd gear, I'll add brakes to slow down, clutch in, blip the throttle (right foot operating the brake and the gas), select second, and clutch out. Purpose is to decelerate at a turn, pick the correct gear for the lower speed, and by rev matching, you don't upset the chassis with the shift shock. Not a big deal on the street, but driving at 8/10th and above it makes a difference, especially when you learn how to trail brake and push the braking zones, and you need a lower gear to exit quickly.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Chiropractor JW said:


> On my third car with manual tranny. What exactly is "heel-toe" and what exactly is "rev matching?" Thanks!


Heel/toe is where you use your heel on the brake and your toe on the gas to rev up the engine during hard braking to prepare for a downshift. if you have ever been in a situation where you have to brake hard and then down shift to accelerate fast out of a corner, then you know why it's helpful to combine those into one action.

Rev matching is when you rev up the engine to prepare for a gear change (instead of making the syncros do the work as described above, it helps get into gear faster), and/or clutchless shifting.


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## Sold Over Sticker (Nov 29, 2009)

VDub2625 said:


> Rev matching is when you rev up the engine to prepare for a gear change (instead of making the syncros do the work as described above, it helps get into gear faster), and/or clutchless shifting.


To be pedantic, rev matching has nothing to do with synchros. It has to do with matching the input shaft speed so when the clutch is released, the engine speed is the correct speed for the wheel speed. 

Now, if you double clutch, that matches the input and the layshaft speed, giving the synchros no work to do. That action would be: clutch in, select neutral, clutch out, rev match, clutch in, select lower gear, clutch out. I double clutch gear changes under 3rd, and any time I skip more than two gears on a gear change, since it's easier on the synchros.


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## freedomweasel (Apr 15, 2010)

VDub2625 said:


> Nope, it's just metal on metal coated in oil. Oil can protect the crank bearings under the forces of the piston being pushed down by the explosion, it can handle that too
> 
> Also, the forks in a VW are simple stamped steel bent into shape. Interesting to see Honda went with aluminum. They look a lot larger than VW, but with the possibility of breaking like that...


Oh, duh, I somehow forgot there was oil in there. :banghead::laugh:


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## thetopdog (Nov 11, 2008)

I've heard that top speed has nothing to do with the weight of the car, and the only things that influence top speed at all are: horsepower, aerodynamics, frontal area, gearing and some other minor things like tire friction.

I have a hard time seeing how this is true. Surely if you take my car which can supposedly do 186mph, and you add 5000lbs of ballast throughout the car without changing anything else the top speed will be less than 186mph?


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## B5tevo (Jan 23, 2006)

thetopdog said:


> I've heard that top speed has nothing to do with the weight of the car, and the only things that influence top speed at all are: horsepower, aerodynamics, frontal area, gearing and some other minor things like tire friction.
> 
> I have a hard time seeing how this is true. Surely if you take my car which can supposedly do 186mph, and you add 5000lbs of ballast throughout the car without changing anything else the top speed will be less than 186mph?


The 5000 lbs of ballast will increase the tire friction. Also the additional mass will slow the acceleration, so you will need more time to reach top speed.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Think of it this way, besides the minor factors mentioned above (more tire friction etc), the actual weight doesn't have to do with top speed. It'll take longer to accelerate there but to keep that 5000lbs going 186 mph is still using the same wind resistance (drag) since the body is exactly the same. Acceleration is getting to a speed. Once you're there, momentum largely takes over for the weight, and all you're overcoming is drag.


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## RIPkevsGTI (Feb 12, 2003)

Sorry if this has been asked, I didn't read all 72 pages.

Has anyone ever gotten replacement after-market struts under warranty? I put the Shine real street suspension kit on my Jetta at around 115k miles, and now have about 215k miles. I'm wondering if I'm getting close to failure on any of the struts. Since the Bilstein HD product has a life-time warranty, I'm curious about how this might work. I imagine that one will fail, and I will want to replace it and at least one other (the other front, or the other rear), if not all four. Would the warranty cover one strut, a pair, all four?

Any experiences with this sort of thing?

Thanks!


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## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

RIPkevsGTI said:


> Sorry if this has been asked, I didn't read all 72 pages.
> 
> Has anyone ever gotten replacement after-market struts under warranty? I put the Shine real street suspension kit on my Jetta at around 115k miles, and now have about 215k miles. I'm wondering if I'm getting close to failure on any of the struts. Since the Bilstein HD product has a life-time warranty, I'm curious about how this might work. I imagine that one will fail, and I will want to replace it and at least one other (the other front, or the other rear), if not all four. Would the warranty cover one strut, a pair, all four?
> 
> ...


I have no experience with your question, but here's something I do know. If you send back your struts for warranty, they'll mail you out new ones. In the mean time, your car will be strutless and therefore unusable. 

I don't know if they would let you replace all four at once, but I doubt it. It's speculation on my end though.


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## P-Body (Mar 18, 2007)

So if water cools stuff down, do people driving in areas with lots of rainfall have longer life for their brakes and tires?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I believe the corrosion negates any cooling effect, and be rusted through before any added life from extra cooling has a chance. The brakes would be better off dry and hot than cool and wet.

As for tires, good question... think rain would "lube" the contact surface so as to avoid much wear, though it also allows more slip which accelerates wear on the rubber.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Smigelski said:


> I have no experience with your question, but here's something I do know. If you send back your struts for warranty, they'll mail you out new ones. In the mean time, your car will be strutless and therefore unusable.
> 
> I don't know if they would let you replace all four at once, but I doubt it. It's speculation on my end though.


Don't they offer a plan where you pay for the part, mail back the return and get a refund? That's how it's always worked for me (you have the option to do it your way too but when it's your only car...)


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## RIPkevsGTI (Feb 12, 2003)

Cool... I guess the best place to ask is the manufacturer or Shine (where I got them). This is a second car, so I can be without it for a while. I've grown to really hate the Bilstein HDs. Way too hard for my liking. Maybe if the roads here were nicer. Ideally one will fail, i'll get a set of four new ones, sell them and replace with something softer. =) Doubt that will happen.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

P-Body said:


> So if water cools stuff down, do people driving in areas with lots of rainfall have longer life for their brakes and tires?


Um.....probably not. Rain doesn't actually flow over the brakes in a way that would provide any "cooling" effect. In fact, wet climates probably contribute to faster wear due to corrosion.


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

RIPkevsGTI said:


> Sorry if this has been asked, I didn't read all 72 pages.
> 
> Has anyone ever gotten replacement after-market struts under warranty? I put the Shine real street suspension kit on my Jetta at around 115k miles, and now have about 215k miles. I'm wondering if I'm getting close to failure on any of the struts. Since the Bilstein HD product has a life-time warranty, I'm curious about how this might work. I imagine that one will fail, and I will want to replace it and at least one other (the other front, or the other rear), if not all four. Would the warranty cover one strut, a pair, all four?
> 
> ...


 Call up Dick Shine and see what he says. That's the easiest way to handle it. They're a good operation and stand by their products. 

I've had two rear struts replaced (different company) that were leaking. They came with my Eibach ProSystem kit. I emailed some pictures to customer service, and they sent me two new ones. I got the new ones on the car, packed them up, and sent them back to Eibach. Once they determinded they were, in fact, defective, I got my money back that I paid for the new ones.


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## 2.0T_Convert (Mar 23, 2009)

When you swap out wheels of different sizes - In my case 16 to 18 can you still use the same full size spare that came stock with the car? 

Whoring pic


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

2.0T_Convert said:


> When you swap out wheels of different sizes - In my case 16 to 18 can you still use the same full size spare that came stock with the car?
> 
> Whoring pic


 wheel size is irrelevant, overall tire diameter is all that matters, ie: 
stock tire size= 195/55/16 = 24.4 ish in diameter 
t/r's rec 18 size =205/40/18 = 24.4 ish 
your spare = T135 / 80 D15 = 24.5 ish


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## 2.0T_Convert (Mar 23, 2009)

gambit420s said:


> wheel size is irrelevant, overall tire diameter is all that matters


 Thanks :laugh: 

I was going to ask about tire sealant but thank the search function god I didn't bring that topic up!


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

edited w/more info


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## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

Serious question: Why are AE86 and 240sx so popular with drifters? What is so special about these RWD cars that makes them more preferrable over other RWD cars?


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

MightyDSM said:


> Serious question: Why are AE86 and 240sx so popular with drifters? What is so special about these RWD cars that makes them more preferrable over other RWD cars?


 Affordable JDM RWD car that isn't prone to snap oversteer, with a good aftermarket. See: miata, mr2, ect. AE86 mostly due to initial D. 
Apparently they are running out of 240s, cressidas are hot around here now. There is one with a lexus v8 swap in my area.


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## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

monoaural said:


> Affordable JDM RWD car that isn't prone to snap oversteer, with a good aftermarket. See: miata, mr2, ect. AE86 mostly due to initial D.
> Apparently they are running out of 240s, cressidas are hot around here now. There is one with a lexus v8 swap in my area.


 So, they're kinda like the Civics of tuning scene?


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

MightyDSM said:


> So, they're kinda like the Civics of tuning scene?


 No. Civics are the tuning of the tuning scene. :laugh: 

240's are popular because they are RWD, cheap and plentiful, you can fit any engine you want in the bay.


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## Diamond Dave (Mar 24, 2001)

MightyDSM said:


> Serious question: Why are AE86 and 240sx so popular with drifters? What is so special about these RWD cars that makes them more preferrable over other RWD cars?


 They're RWD, manual transmission, and they're not domestic.


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## elmer fud (Aug 5, 2003)

both the ae86 and the Nissan were cheep... before the explosion of new drifters .... they both need very little to get straight to drifting, wear as alot of the other cars that are rwd and close to the same price need more work before they drift well. case and point go grab a stock n/a rx7 and try to drift it.... its not imposable but its not easy. I have driven a ae86, too of the 240 gens, rx7's, cresidas, celica supras, volvo 240's, bmws, oh god alot more, and the 86 just rocks at drifting, its very easy to get the back end out and will stay out with a little work its very easy to get to a point where you can trust it to do what you want.... the 240 is almost as good... it seems to need more power then the 86 needs to stay out but it is also easy to get the car to a point where it seems to react the same way eveytime you need it too. the others just need more work, you can make any car drift, and most can be made to drift well, it just takes more work. even the 2 gen rx7's (the other drift status rig) needs a bunch of work to be competitive, the steering angle sucks stock. the suspension needs a work as the car snap oversteers badly, and even the turbo rotorys lacks tq and hp needed to keep the ass-end out. but with knuckles, coil overs and a v8 swap they are great! 

I was a dumbarse and my rig right now is a gen 1 rx7...... I love the car but its not a very good drift car. If I could find a ae86 I would trade it in a second. lucky I do autox more then I drift..... but damn drifting is fun! and addicting.


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## lukas69 (Aug 30, 2009)

i need a good website for 13" low profile tires, like 55 to 65, any suggestions? this is for my friend who is lowering his car and doesn't want to fork up dough on wheels 
thanks


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## Corbic (Sep 1, 2003)

Diamond Dave said:


> They're RWD, manual transmission, and they're not domestic.


 Yes and No. 

For drifting the longer wheel base, adaptable chassis, cheap buy in price and stable chasis makes for an excellent platform. 

Mustangs and Camaros are not exactly cheap to buy in good condition and their additional weight and limited stock suspension makes not ideal. 

The unlimited parts availability also adds to the attraction, both stock and aftermarket. 

Miatas and RX-7 have two short a wheel base, Mustangs and Camaros are too heavy and need a lot of work to get to the same level of suspension, a 944 is expensive and the transaxle can't handel das drift.


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## Bias_Ply (Feb 6, 2010)

what is the difference in driving a classic Ferrari at high speeds with the windows up or down? 

I have read magazines reference this a few times.


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## feels_road (Jan 27, 2005)

P-Body said:


> So if water cools stuff down, do people driving in areas with lots of rainfall have longer life for their brakes and tires?


 Chance is that in areas with lots of rain, you are going to use your brakes more often and wear out them and the tires prematurely... the cooling effect is likely non-existent, as noted previously.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

WHy don't automakers fill every cavity and void of a frame with self expanding, lightweight, closed-cell foam? Would seal out all moisture, and severely quiet the vehicle.


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

Weight, and cost.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I can kinda see the cost thing, but wouldn't weight be saved in other areas? And maybe cost as well, for not having to have as much sound deadening inside the car itself.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

VDub2625 said:


> I can kinda see the cost thing, but wouldn't weight be saved in other areas? And maybe cost as well, for not having to have as much sound deadening inside the car itself.


How many vehicles are BOF anymore?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

barry2952 said:


> How many vehicles are BOF anymore?


I mean in the unibody, but the frame of a BOF could be helpful too.


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## Dr. Woo (Feb 28, 2003)

This is more of a general engineering question, but is there a technical term for a button that has multiple levels of actuation? For example, auto up/down windows with switches that you press lightly for momentary activation, or press all the way down and activate the second level of actuation for automatic activation. Same thing with digital camera shutter buttons - first level focuses, second level takes the photo.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Dr. Woo said:


> This is more of a general engineering question, but is there a technical term for a button that has multiple levels of actuation? For example, auto up/down windows with switches that you press lightly for momentary activation, or press all the way down and activate the second level of actuation for automatic activation. Same thing with digital camera shutter buttons - first level focuses, second level takes the photo.


In the case of a window switch they are typically single-pole, double throw, center-off, momentary-contact switches that control a window relay. In some cars they are polarity switching switches that handle the current directly as typical window motors are reversible with polarity changes.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

SPST: Single Pole Single Throw: on/off switch
SPDT: Single Pole Double Throw: 1/2/3 position switch (sometimes off, mode 1, mode 2, or mode 1, off, mode 2, or etc)
DPST: Double Pole Single Throw: works like a SPST but has 2 electrically seperate switches that operate in parallel at the same time
DPDT: same as the two above combined

I believe that you can also get into triple throw etc too. gets confusing since a single throw actually has 2 positions, and a double throw has 3 positions (if you include off). "throw" is usually defined by a current-carrying position (anything besides off).

A window switch could potentially be quad throw, as there are 2 positions for up and down (express and regular), and off (which is not counted. Though most manufacturers use a computer to notice if you just tap the switch or hold it for a few seconds, in which case it goes into express mode and a tap of the reverse position stops it.


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## Dr. Woo (Feb 28, 2003)

So a window rocker would be considered quad-throw if it has a momentary activation for up and down and an automatic activation for up and down. Two up, two down. Got it.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

No, that's not it. The switch controls a smart relay. If you momemtarily hit the switch it senses that and puts the window all the way up and down. Holding and releasing the switch lets you control its final position. It's still typically a single pole, double-throw, momementary-contact, center-off switch.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

barry2952 said:


> No, that's not it. The switch controls a smart relay. If you momemtarily hit the switch it senses that and puts the window all the way up and down. Holding and releasing the switch lets you control its final position. It's still typically a single pole, double-throw, momementary-contact, center-off switch.


I have seen some cars that produce a tactile "click" if you push or pull it past the first stop, this is where they have the express up and down. It's different depending on which car manufacturer you are using (Hyundai is one that i know uses a double-click switch).

I actually like the seperate points for express up and down, because that means if I want to move the window a little (as in your example) or a lot (as in mine, a few posts ago, system that operate both ways exist too), i can do what i damn well please without having to fight the auto-up-down feature


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## Professor Gascan (Sep 11, 2002)

gambit420s said:


> wheel size is irrelevant, overall tire diameter is all that matters, ie:
> stock tire size= 195/55/16 = 24.4 ish in diameter
> t/r's rec 18 size =205/40/18 = 24.4 ish
> your spare = T135 / 80 D15 = 24.5 ish


Up to a point. It's a good reference, but the actual spec that's more important is revolutions per mile. It can vary substantially between different types of tires that are the same "size." That's the spec that will directly affect the odometer and speedometer readings.


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## Dr. Woo (Feb 28, 2003)

barry2952 said:


> No, that's not it. The switch controls a smart relay. If you momemtarily hit the switch it senses that and puts the window all the way up and down. Holding and releasing the switch lets you control its final position. It's still typically a single pole, double-throw, momementary-contact, center-off switch.


We may be thinking of two separate types of window switches. I'm talking about the type that you can press lightly and hold for momentary activation, or you can press further and activate a second position that makes it automatically go in whatever direction until it stops. In this case the switch would have two positions up and two positions down.

Not talking about the switches that only have one position for up and one position for down, and react differently depending on how long you hold it.


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## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

When people talk about turbos, what do they mean when they say the exhaust side is T3, V-Band, and so on? What are all the different types?


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## NjDriver (Oct 5, 2009)

Its the bolt pattern on the turbo I believe


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## sebastian kach (Feb 18, 2010)

sciroccohal said:


> Shifting into reverse WILL happen when the vehicle slows down to perhaps 20 mph... (it's vacuum operated generally) I know my dog did it once in my GTO Judge....I was doing 60 at the time...when I got to the bottom of the hill and slowed down...eeeerp! Exciting! The Dog is STILL imbedded in the dashboard....no damage except to the dog!


I always wanted know what would happen if you were driving a manual shift car in a forward gear and if you could lock up the brakes, clutch, change to reverse and then release clutch and the car spin the tires in reverse. I wasn't sure it would but after much thought I was convinced it could be done because if the brakes are locked up, the trans is stopped so it would essentially let you do it.

Knowing of course this was only to be done in the snow so as not to completely trash a gearbox, I tried it in the best car ever to try it in, an R32, with Blizzaks even. Turns out, it's really awesome. It's like reverse warp speed. The car stopped pretty quick and acquired no damage whatsoever. I would definitely try in in an emergency situation in the snow if it meant stopping before plowing into the back of a car.:thumbup:


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

I just read that if a car redlines at 8000 but has a limiter at 8500, that means that the car can live at 8000 *nearly* infinitely and can hit the limiter of 8600 in short bursts. Does this mean that my ITR can live at 8500 *forever* despite my limiter being 8600?


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

Well, it won't "blow" but that would significantly shorten it's life.


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

StormChaser said:


> Well, it won't "blow" but that would significantly shorten it's life.


How about with the 8000rpm redline car? The wording that was used was:



> ...the redline is 8500 RPM for short bursts and 8000 RPM continuous.


Would continuous imply "sustainability"? Like, I know keeping a car at redline for prolonged periods of time just puts wear on the engine faster. But what does "continuous" mean?


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## VarianceVQ (Jun 26, 2005)

So about Euro pedestrian regs messing up front-end car design lately... Can't the designers just say "f*** it", design what they want and just live with a poor pedestrian impact score? 

Taller vehicles in particular are all bound to mow down jaywalkers anyway short of making them all look like Aerostars or something.


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## mistral938 (Jan 9, 2010)

VarianceVQ said:


> So about Euro pedestrian regs messing up front-end car design lately... Can't the designers just say "f*** it", design what they want and just live with a poor pedestrian impact score?
> 
> Taller vehicles in particular are all bound to mow down jaywalkers anyway short of making them all look like Aerostars or something.


There's a reason they're called regulations


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## J-Tim (May 26, 2000)

VarianceVQ said:


> So about Euro pedestrian regs messing up front-end car design lately... Can't the designers just say "f*** it", design what they want and just live with a poor pedestrian impact score?
> 
> Taller vehicles in particular are all bound to mow down jaywalkers anyway short of making them all look like Aerostars or something.


Unfortunately, you are not allowed to sell a new car that doesn't pass pedestrian impact tests.

Same as manufacturers are not allowed to sell new passenger (non sports ) cars without stability control anymore.


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## :Jeremy: (Feb 22, 2002)

MightyDSM said:


> When people talk about turbos, what do they mean when they say the exhaust side is T3, V-Band, and so on? What are all the different types?


"T3" on the exhaust side is in relevance to the turbine size of the turbo, alot of popular turbo kits have a hybrid T3/T4 turbo, this means the it uses a T4 compressor housing and a T3 turbine housing. The advantage is it generates more airflow than a straight T3. A v-band connection is how the turbo meets the downpipe by a clamp. This is getting popular because there are no gaskets to burn up from the excessive heat. 

What are all the different types of what? turbo sizes or exhaust configurations?


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## therichisgood (Mar 7, 2004)

My apologies if this has been answered already, but I always wondered about this.
Keep in mind that all numbers are hypothetical, I'm just trying get my point across.

So what would be the "best" way of driving of these two? Manual, gasoline, 4 cylinder car with a 6000rpm redline on straight and flat road just cruising along with traffic.



a) 4th gear at 3700 rpm; slightly higher revs than you'd like to be cruising at but there's the speed limit to abide by.


or


b) 5th gear at 2000 rpm; the engine slightly lugging (would have to downshift if you wanted to speed up) but again there's the speed limit which isn't allowing you to go a faster to hit the cruising "sweet spot" of the gear.



I know there's the option of slowing down in 4th or speeding up in 5th but let's say that in this situation where neither gear seems like the right one to be in, which is the "right" option? Which is doing damage (if any), which is the least fuel efficient, etc?


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## nosrednug (Nov 14, 2007)

From what I understand, an engine runs most efficiently at it's peak torque. So it would vary depending in the vehicle's torque curve.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

C4 A6 said:


> Would continuous imply "sustainability"? Like, I know keeping a car at redline for prolonged periods of time just puts wear on the engine faster. But what does "continuous" mean?


I've never heard of a car with a 2 stage redline, but it's not something I look at either.

I think the confusion comes in that "redline" usually means "rev cutoff", which can (and often is) different from the actual red shaded area on the tach (which doesn't have anything to do with the engine computer cutoff).


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## SVTDanny (Aug 8, 2005)

MightyDSM said:


> When people talk about turbos, what do they mean when they say the exhaust side is T3, V-Band, and so on? What are all the different types?



T3 would refer to the class of turbine as well as the flange that bolts up to the exhaust manifold. 

Most of the time, you will only see a V-band connection between the turbine exit and the downpipe, but there are turbine housings that have V-band inlets as well.


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## Fiasko (Oct 18, 2011)

is 210psi compression the same as 11:1? more? less?


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## SVTDanny (Aug 8, 2005)

There is no way to accurately correlate the results of a compression test to the compression ratio of an engine.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Fiasko said:


> is 210psi compression the same as 11:1? more? less?


The 11:1 factor is how much different the volume of the cylinder is from BDC to TDC (bottom dead center to top dead center).

The PSI change from BDC to TDC will vary according to engine wear and air conditions IIRC.


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## nthomas33 (Jun 13, 2009)

What is the purpose behind installing upgraded engine/trans/etc. mounts? I see everyone doing it but I've never learned the actual advantage


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## Fiasko (Oct 18, 2011)

nthomas33 said:


> What is the purpose behind installing upgraded engine/trans/etc. mounts? I see everyone doing it but I've never learned the actual advantage


When your engine twists around in the engine bay, you loose power. 
Rubber mounts absorb energy when the engine twists. Upgraded polyurethane mounts don't wear out, you get more power, and better response.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

And more vibration and less comfort. Stock stuff is usually tuned for a good balance, but aftermarket options exist for something that will hold the engine in place better. Most (all?) race cars generally have the engine securely bolted to the chassis with maybe a tiny bit of rubber to keep welds from breaking.


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## 302W (Jul 24, 2004)

Stiff motor mounts are one of the quickest ways to degrade driveability imo. I just put fresh oem mounts, I'll deal with the slight power loss.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

And, hydraulic mounts really are a pretty damn good compromise. A large force (engine sinking back on accel) forces the hydro fluid to stiffen up the mount, while small vibrations caused by idling etc are completely absorbed due to the design of the hydro fluid and baffles inside the mount.


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

Professor Gascan said:


> Up to a point. It's a good reference, but the actual spec that's more important is revolutions per mile. It can vary substantially between different types of tires that are the same "size." That's the spec that will directly affect the odometer and speedometer readings.


 I was unable to locate rpm for the spare, you are correct, rpm is more important, wheel size is still irrelevant.


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## Fiasko (Oct 18, 2011)

If you completely remove the syncros in a transmission that originally came with syncros, will that transmission still work? (the driver knows how to double clutch and rev match perfectly)


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## Fiasko (Oct 18, 2011)

another one, if you increase the compression in an engine, would 1 step colder plugs be beneficial?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Fiasko said:


> If you completely remove the syncros in a transmission that originally came with syncros, will that transmission still work? (the driver knows how to double clutch and rev match perfectly)


In theory. But it would be hard. I don't see why you would want to do that.


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## SVTDanny (Aug 8, 2005)

Fiasko said:


> another one, if you increase the compression in an engine, would 1 step colder plugs be beneficial?


Completely depends on what the final compression is, what fuel you are running, how aggressive the tune is, and what heat range the plugs were to start with.


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

Dr. Woo said:


> We may be thinking of two separate types of window switches. I'm talking about the type that you can press lightly and hold for momentary activation, or you can press further and activate a second position that makes it automatically go in whatever direction until it stops. In this case the switch would have two positions up and two positions down.
> 
> Not talking about the switches that only have one position for up and one position for down, and react differently depending on how long you hold it.


 That type of window switch is usually a 'coded' switch. It has only two wires; each switch position has a different resistance value.
Usually, the switch will be provided +5v or +12v by whatever control unit (e.g. "body module") operates the windows; the voltage on the return line (monitored by said control unit) tells the module what to do.

In the case of a 'master switchblock' (such as on a driver's door), that block is usually a control unit itself - it processes all of the switch inputs itself, and outputs a bus message to whatever controls the windows.


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## ByronLLN (Jul 29, 2004)

Fiasko said:


> When your engine twists around in the engine bay, you loose power.
> Rubber mounts absorb energy when the engine twists. Upgraded polyurethane mounts don't wear out, you get more power, and better response.


More power? That's a new one. 

You're not recovering any power with stiffer motor mounts. Depending on the drive train layout, you may find it easier to put power down with stiffer mounts, but that's it.

I assume the argument is that you're preventing the engine from wasting torque on moving itself around the engine bay? I can sort of follow the logic behind this line of thinking, but it doesn't really hold up if you think about it. That energy is still being lost. It's just rattling your teeth and abusing your ear drums instead of bucking the engine about.


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## 92skirmishgti (Sep 5, 2005)

PassSedanGLX said:


> More power? That's a new one.
> 
> You're not recovering any power with stiffer motor mounts. Depending on the drive train layout, you may find it easier to put power down with stiffer mounts, but that's it.


No way man, my poly mounts gave me 30hp! :screwy:


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## ByronLLN (Jul 29, 2004)

92skirmishgti said:


> No way man, my poly mounts gave me 30hp! :screwy:


I hear if you leave the Summit Racing stickers on them, you can get another 3 or 4 at the wheels.


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## Fiasko (Oct 18, 2011)

VDub2625 said:


> In theory. But it would be hard. I don't see why you would want to do that.


Because the syncros are effed up and start binding.. the car gets used to travel now anyways so it's on 6th gear 95% of the time


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## Fiasko (Oct 18, 2011)

djsheijkdfj said:


> Completely depends on what the final compression is, what fuel you are running, how aggressive the tune is, and what heat range the plugs were to start with.


started at 9.5:1 and went to 11:1
uses 91 or 93 octane
stock tune, which is rich from factory
Started with heat range 5, now has 6


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

Why do people make a big deal about getting a LSD on a miata? It's not like they have enough power to spin the wheels anyway - does this come into play when going around turns (inside wheel losing traction?)


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## helement2003 (Aug 3, 2004)

sjt1985 said:


> Why do people make a big deal about getting a LSD on a miata? It's not like they have enough power to spin the wheels anyway - does this come into play when going around turns (inside wheel losing traction?)


It doesn't take a whole lot of power to break traction on the inside wheel while in a hard turn.

I used to burn the inside wheel on my Integra, and it had a measly 140hp. It would have been great to have an LSD


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## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

helement2003 said:


> It doesn't take a whole lot of power to break traction on the inside wheel while in a hard turn.
> 
> I used to burn the inside wheel on my Integra, and it had a measly 140hp. It would have been great to have an LSD


Yup. My tired 1.6l miata will break the rear end loose exiting a turn at the top of 1st gear on Hoosiers. Meaning it would be smoking the heck out of the inside tire if not for the LSD. On street tires, definitely. I don't know how 98hp does that, but it does :laugh: 

I'd agree it doesn't matter much on the street. If I bought a Miata to daily drive I wouldn't give a damn if it had an LSD or not.


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## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

Roadkilled78 said:


> Yup. My tired 1.6l miata will break the rear end loose exiting a turn at the top of 1st gear on Hoosiers. Meaning it would be smoking the heck out of the inside tire if not for the LSD. On street tires, definitely. I don't know how 98hp does that, but it does :laugh:
> 
> I'd agree it doesn't matter much on the street. If I bought a Miata to daily drive I wouldn't give a damn if it had an LSD or not.


under hard cornering, its acutally pretty easy to essentially have a zero loaded inside wheel.


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

Roadkilled78 said:


> 1.6l miata ....I don't know how 98hp does that, but it does .


Where did your other 18 hp go?


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## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

sjt1985 said:


> Where did your other 18 hp go?


Well, I was thinking in WHP, which is usually around 105 for a bone stock car, if you're lucky. Those 7 horsepowers slowly leaked out over 273,000 miles. Trust me, they're gone. I am sure of it


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## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

Is there any difference between the VTEC in Honda’s and the variable valve timing in Toyota’s or Mazda’s…

Is VTEC any better or is it just ricer kids who think their sh!ts cool


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## ByronLLN (Jul 29, 2004)

2.0_Mazda said:


> Is there any difference between the VTEC in Honda’s and the variable valve timing in Toyota’s or Mazda’s…
> 
> Is VTEC any better or is it just ricer kids who think their sh!ts cool


There are differences, but there are also different types of VTEC and different cam/valve phasing technologies out there, so without specific executions to compare, the best answer is "yes."


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## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

ok thanks


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## Professor Gascan (Sep 11, 2002)

2.0_Mazda said:


> Is there any difference between the VTEC in Honda’s and the variable valve timing in Toyota’s or Mazda’s…
> 
> Is VTEC any better or is it just ricer kids who think their sh!ts cool


VTEC is able to vary timing and lift. It was the first system of it's kind, and remained for so for quite some time. Most of the systems that came after were variable timing, but not lift. These days though, you're really splitting hairs to find one that is better than the other.

The other portion that makes VTEC noteworthy is that it's elegantly simple, both in design and function.


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## Fiasko (Oct 18, 2011)

Nissan uses secondary intake runners in some cars (combined with continuously variable timing), they sound insane when they open up.. And people always ask if it's VTEK lol


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Yeah, why are shorter runners better for high RPM and longer runners are better for down low power?


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## ByronLLN (Jul 29, 2004)

Fiasko said:


> Nissan uses secondary intake runners in some cars (combined with continuously variable timing), they sound insane when they open up.. And people always ask if it's VTEK lol


Such as white Sentra SE-Rs produced between 2002 and 2006 with vanity license plates?


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

VDub2625 said:


> Yeah, why are shorter runners better for high RPM and longer runners are better for down low power?


 Your Google homework for today:
_intake resonance tuning_. 

Short answer:
airflow in the manifold, plus the valves opening/closing, creates pressure waves in the manifold.
Runner length affects when the pulse bounces back at the intake valve. As engine speed increases, the desired runner length decreases.
Since no one runner length can be optimal across all operating speeds, the 'combo' intake (short and long runners, with shutoff valves for the short runners), or the variable-runner intake (e.g. various iterations of BMW's DISA system) was born.


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## Fiasko (Oct 18, 2011)

PassSedanGLX said:


> Such as white Sentra SE-Rs produced between 2002 and 2006 with vanity license plates?


White? How about world rally blue


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## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

PassSedanGLX said:


> Such as white Sentra SE-Rs produced between 2002 and 2006 with vanity license plates?


I'm skeptical, the similarities are there, but even if this is the return of a certain member, can we keep the potential ****storm out of this otherwise awesome thread? Let's just answer his questions or ignore them, as appropriate.


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

What is the advantage to ball seat vs. conical seat lugs/wheels? It seems many OEM wheels are ball seat, while most aftermarket are conical. What gives?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Only thing I can think of is conical is cheaper, but ball seat appears like it would be stronger (maybe negligibly).


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

IJM said:


> What is the advantage to ball seat vs. conical seat lugs/wheels? It seems many OEM wheels are ball seat, while most aftermarket are conical. What gives?


1. Make lugs different than OEM
2. Force buyers of aftermarket rims to buy new nuts
3. Profit!


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## DrivesMeCrazy (Dec 29, 2002)

I've heard of things like "don't rest your foot at all on the clutch unless you are depressing the pedal for a shift" and "don't hold on to the shifter unless you are shifting" to "prolong" the life of your clutch and tranny. Does this make any real sense? What are the real driving mannerisms to keep your clutch lasting longer?


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## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

Resting your foot on the clutch usually applies some pressure to the throwout bearing, even if you're not applying enough pressure to slip the clutch. This can prematurely wear the bearing out.

Some cars, miatas happen to be one of them, also some vw products iirc, seem to develop issues over (a very loooong) time if driven by someone with a habit of resting their hand on the shifter. Gradual wear on the shifter bushings or shift forks.

Then there's the fact that it's just good practice from a control standpoint - especially on the track - to have both hands on the wheel unless in the act of shifting.


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

Yes, it makes sense. You might not be slipping the clutch, but you are putting pressure on the throw out bearing and that will accelerate wear. Same kind of deal for the shifter, but with the linkages.


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## jettafan[atic] (Dec 2, 2008)

DrivesMeCrazy said:


> I've heard of things like "don't rest your foot at all on the clutch unless you are depressing the pedal for a shift" and "don't hold on to the shifter unless you are shifting" to "prolong" the life of your clutch and tranny. Does this make any real sense? What are the real driving mannerisms to keep your clutch lasting longer?


Yeah they definitely have a reason behind them. The reason why you don't want to rest your foot on the clutch because you can hit a bump, stop paying attention to how much pressure your foot may be putting down, having a sweet mosh session to some sick speed metal etc... and partially engage the clutch. Of course that will put unnecessary wear on the clutch/TO bearing/pressure plate, lose power, be embarrassing etc.

The reason why you don't want to have your hand on the shifter in a manual car is because it is directly connected to the shift fork inside the tranny. It's a basic lever and any force you put on your shifter is multiplied at the shift fork. (I'm not sure how much) Basically what I'm getting at is you could be feel like you're barely putting any force on the shifter but the shift fork is being pushed against moving parts in the tranny and wearing it down. It won't make a difference overnight but it's a simple habit to change that will prolong the life of your transmission.


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## DrivesMeCrazy (Dec 29, 2002)

Luckily I don't do either  Good to know though.


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

jettafan[atic] said:


> The reason why you don't want to have your hand on the shifter in a manual car is because it is directly connected to the shift fork inside the tranny. It's a basic lever and any force you put on your shifter is multiplied at the shift fork. (I'm not sure how much) Basically what I'm getting at is you could be feel like you're barely putting any force on the shifter but the shift fork is being pushed against moving parts in the tranny and wearing it down. It won't make a difference overnight but it's a simple habit to change that will prolong the life of your transmission.


Besides, only wankers drive with one hand on the shifter and the other at the top of the wheel.


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## BSD (Jul 8, 2008)

IJM said:


> Besides, only wankers drive with one hand on the shifter and the other at the top of the wheel.


I do that often since I think its uncomfortable to drive with two hands on the wheel all the time. Although my left hand is at the 10 o'clock position not top. :thumbup: I'ma wanker!


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## NjDriver (Oct 5, 2009)

Wanker over here too


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## ktk (Jun 29, 2009)

usually the OEM lugs are designed for ease of installation with a big multi- lug automated torque gun in the factory. They are installed all 4 or 5 at the same time in one shot and the OEM lugs and wheel design is meant to aid this process and ensure flush and evenly centered consistent seating of the wheel.









"Even the simplest tasks are thought out and controlled. All four lug nuts are torqued simultaneously using this machine, which also counts the number of turns required to reach that torque to ensure nothing has been cross threaded."


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

IJM said:


> What is the advantage to ball seat vs. conical seat lugs/wheels? It seems many OEM wheels are ball seat, while most aftermarket are conical. What gives?


 It's a VW thing. 
VAG (and very few others (IIRC, also Porsche)) uses ball (radius) seat wheel bolts.
Pretty much the rest of the planet uses taper (conical) seat bolts or nuts.
Occasionally, someone (e.g. Rover) uses 'mag-type' (washer seat) nuts.

I wouldn't say that ball has an advantage over taper - it's just VW being their funky selves. :laugh:


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## Dr. Woo (Feb 28, 2003)

With regards to wheel measurements and dimensions...wheel backspacing _will always equal:_ 

0.5 * (wheel width) + (wheel offset)

correct? Whether the offset is positive or negative. For example, an 18x8" wheel with a -15mm offset:

0.5 * 203.2mm + (-15) = 86.6mm backspacing

and a 17x7.5" wheel with a +42mm offset:

0.5 * 190.5mm + 42 = 137.25mm backspacing


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

cuppie said:


> It's a VW thing.
> VAG (and very few others (IIRC, also Porsche)) uses ball (radius) seat wheel bolts.
> Pretty much the rest of the planet uses taper (conical) seat bolts or nuts.
> Occasionally, someone (e.g. Rover) uses 'mag-type' (washer seat) nuts.
> ...


Hmmm... I could swear my sister's Accord also has factory ball seat. I swap her summer/winter wheels for her and I know the winter set from Tire Rack came with different lug nuts which I thought were conical vs. the factory ball seat. I'll have to check it again when I switch them out next month. Maybe they're both conical but with different tapers. I'll have to check.


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## Dr. Woo (Feb 28, 2003)

Dr. Woo said:


> With regards to wheel measurements and dimensions...wheel backspacing _will always equal:_
> 
> 0.5 * (wheel width) + (wheel offset)
> 
> ...


Bottom of the page FTL. Anyone?


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## JeffIsLax (Mar 26, 2005)

Dr. Woo said:


> With regards to wheel measurements and dimensions...wheel backspacing _will always equal:_
> 
> 0.5 * (wheel width) + (wheel offset)
> 
> ...


Your (wheel width) is supposed to be measured from outside lip of the tire bead, where the manufacturer's specified width (such as 18x8) is usually measured from the inside of the tire bead on both sides.










The rule of thumb I use is to add 1" to the manufacturer's width, and follow your equation, so:

0.5 * (wheel width + 1") + (wheel offset)

I also convert the offset to inches, rather than convert the width to mm, because most places refer to backspacing in inches.


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## Dr. Woo (Feb 28, 2003)

JeffIsLax said:


> Your (wheel width) is supposed to be measured from outside lip of the tire bead, where the manufacturer's specified width (such as 18x8) is usually measured from the inside of the tire bead on both sides.
> 
> http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/images/tech/backspacing.gif
> 
> ...


It looks like the centerline of that wheel is not in the exact center, but rather is half of the manufacturer's width and is applied to the full width. So if we assume there's another 1" of width, it'd go like:

0.5 * (wheel width) + (wheel offset + 0.5)

There are several conflicting diagrams online, so I have no idea which one is the most accurate, or if they're _all_ accurate. 

EDIT: It's just the diagram being inaccurate, so strike all that nonsense I just posted. :facepalm: Thanks for pointing everything out, makes sense now. :thumbup:

Here's a good one:


----------



## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

Okay another HP vs torque question. I know that HP is directly related to torque and rpm blah blah, but why is HP the more important stat? In regards to acceleration, everyone says that torque pushes you back in the seat - which means you are accelerating quickly. 

So why does a TDI not accelerate quickly - is the powerband very short on diesels?


----------



## Omnilith (Jan 15, 2010)

Neither are really more "important".

Basically between the two numbers and the RPM at which they peak, you can paint a picture of what sort of output the engine has in the real world... or the power under the curve if you will.

All four numbers are important. For example:

Car A: 198hp @ 7400, 135tq @ 6800.... is clearly a small displacement high revving engine that doesn't offer a great deal of low end punch.

Car B: 165hp @ 4600, 181tq @ 2400.... is obviously calibrated for torque and won't be particularly lively in the upper revs.

Both have their purpose and benefits.


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

Omnilith said:


> All four numbers are important. For example:
> 
> Car A: 198hp @ 7400, 135tq @ 6800.... is clearly a small displacement high revving engine that doesn't offer a great deal of low end punch.
> 
> ...


Ok, so for quicker acceleration, which would be better. Car A I presume since the peak HP is higher?


----------



## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

sjt1985 said:


> Okay another HP vs torque question. I know that HP is directly related to torque and rpm blah blah, but why is HP the more important stat? In regards to acceleration, everyone says that torque pushes you back in the seat - which means you are accelerating quickly.
> 
> So why does a TDI not accelerate quickly - is the powerband very short on diesels?





sjt1985 said:


> Ok, so for quicker acceleration, which would be better. Car A I presume since the peak HP is higher?



It depends. diesels are very quick in the 0-30mph range. They have a lot of low-end torque which helps it take off very well. But they don't have much of a top-end to continue that acceleration. Above 30 mph the gas engine shown would probably be quicker. 

Peak HP doesn't have a lot to do with acceleration. Acceleration is more of an 'area under the curve' thing, as shown on a dynamometer chart.


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

Smigelski said:


> It depends. diesels are very quick in the 0-30mph range. They have a lot of low-end torque which helps it take off very well. But they don't have much of a top-end to continue that acceleration. Above 30 mph the gas engine shown would probably be quicker.


Wouldn't you just shift the diesel into another gear so it's in the torque sweet spot again?


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

Yes, which takes time. You have about 3,000RPM of usable power in most automotive diesels. Also due to the rotational inertia of the engines reciprocating parts, which must be heavier due to the forces involved. they simply don't rev QUICKLY even in that range. Try short shifting your gasser. Do a 0-60 run and shift at 4,000rpm every time.


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

StormChaser said:


> Do a 0-60 run and shift at 4,000rpm every time.


That's when I usually shift anyway - I just figured the 2.0 is slow


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## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

StormChaser said:


> Yes, which takes time. You have about 3,000RPM of usable power in most automotive diesels. Also due to the rotational inertia of the engines reciprocating parts, which must be heavier due to the forces involved. they simply don't rev QUICKLY even in that range. Try short shifting your gasser. Do a 0-60 run and shift at 4,000rpm every time.


Yep. Diesels rev slowly. They have a long stroke to take advantage of diesel fuel's more even burn pattern. It takes a while for the revs to move up or down. I swear I can't rev match my TDI on downshifts without it taking forever. I have no problem with my gas cars. .


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## EuroJerz (May 27, 2010)

After unplugging my harnesses for a tuck, my automatic car -____- wont shift... starts driving in like 3rd, and wont change gears


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## EuroJerz (May 27, 2010)

Anyone know why that is???


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Something's unplugged and it's in safe mode. Or it noticed everything was unplugged and plugged back in. So, start checking for things you missed, or maybe do an ECU reset (remove battery terminals, touch together for 10 seconds to reset all ECUs). This isn't the place for this question though... there are technical forums for this.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

What's a tuck?


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## freedomweasel (Apr 15, 2010)

barry2952 said:


> What's a tuck?


I assume he was "tucking" all the wires and hoses somewhere hidden. Either in the interior on the engine bay.

That or something like that scene from _silence of the lambs_.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Unplugging the harness and moving it to a more discrete, less visible location, without major modification to it.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

VDub2625 said:


> Unplugging the harness and moving it to a more discrete, less visible location, without major modification to it.


Thanks. Learned something new. Thought it was a typo.


----------



## EuroJerz (May 27, 2010)

Thank you!


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## Corbic (Sep 1, 2003)

Do air cooled motors struggle at high HP?

Are there upgrades need for a 300,400 or even 500hp Porsche for the cooling?


----------



## stascom (Sep 12, 2009)

How does back pressure in the exhaust system affect power and torque? I know that more back pressure = more torque and less power. But why?


----------



## IC AI (Aug 29, 2008)

I have a 2004 Odyssey with 210kmiles. When accelerating slowly, at about 40mph, the front right suddenly starts shaking, like I am going over a rumble strip. Same hollow sound, same shaking of the car. It happens very suddenly. I am completely baffled.


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

IC AI said:


> I have a 2004 Odyssey with 210kmiles. When accelerating slowly, at about 40mph, the front right suddenly starts shaking, like I am going over a rumble strip. Same hollow sound, same shaking of the car. It happens very suddenly. I am completely baffled.


Have you checked the tie rods and wheel bearings?


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

IC AI said:


> I have a 2004 Odyssey with 210kmiles. When accelerating slowly, at about 40mph, the front right suddenly starts shaking, like I am going over a rumble strip. Same hollow sound, same shaking of the car. It happens very suddenly. I am completely baffled.


Oddyssey's have a lot of transmission trouble. My friend's shakes when it shifts when driving between 25-45 mph

http://wheels.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/01/08/honda-transmission-problems-seem-to-persist/

http://www.autoobserver.com/2010/03...roubles-inconsistent-response-from-maker.html


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

IC AI said:


> I have a 2004 Odyssey with 210kmiles. When accelerating slowly, at about 40mph, the front right suddenly starts shaking, like I am going over a rumble strip. Same hollow sound, same shaking of the car. It happens very suddenly. I am completely baffled.


That was a common problem with older cars. Lincoln even went as far as installing lead weights on bars that were suposed to neutralize the vibration. 

Check wheel balance before you do anything. Have you used a liquid tire sealer? They will tend to throw a tire out of balance.

One thing I always check in this situation is water in the tire. It gets there from gas stations and tire places that don't properly remove water from the air lines. I once took two cups of water out of a tire that wouln't balance.


----------



## IC AI (Aug 29, 2008)

sjt1985 said:


> Have you checked the tie rods and wheel bearings?


Not the bearings. Hmm, thanks!


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

barry2952 said:


> I once took two cups of water out of a tire that wouln't balance.


damn :screwy: I wouldn't even think to check that.


----------



## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

Corbic said:


> Do air cooled motors struggle at high HP?
> 
> Are there upgrades need for a 300,400 or even 500hp Porsche for the cooling?


On these engines, iirc a majority of the extra cooling capacity comes from oil cooling. I know that on some of the very high performance air cooled engines though porsche went to a water cooled cylinder head to help with the combustion chamber temps.



stascom said:


> How does back pressure in the exhaust system affect power and torque? I know that more back pressure = more torque and less power. But why?


You're thinking that torque only refers to power down low. In reality torque is just a unit of force applied (rotationally) while Horsepower is a derived term from how rapidly that force can be applied (hence the RPM value).
It's about cylinder filling. In an engine there is a short duration of time where both the intake valves and exhaust valves are open at the same time, called overlap. The idea behind this is that the exhaust gasses leaving the chamber will 'pull' some of the intake charge into the cylinder, improving cylinder filling and thus, get a more full intake charge. The problem with that comes in that if there is little enough back pressure, the gasses coming out of the intake tract will actually follow the exhaust charge and you will get unburnt fuel bypassing the whole combustion process altogether. How do you limit this? Slow the exhaust charge down. How do you do that? restrict the exhaust (Create 'backpressure' if you will). In doing so, the idea is that you slow down the charge to a rate of speed such that you completely evacuate the exhaust gasses while allowing the scavenging of the cylinder to allow for the most complete filling of the cylinder possible. When you raise your cylinder filling, you increase your torque at that point. 

Now, where most people get confused (thinking torque is a low rpm value, and horsepower is a high rpm value) is thinking that less back pressure is actually going to reduce torque. An intake and exhaust are a dynamic system, and as such are tuned to specific rpm's, or rpm ranges. So while a restrictive exhaust system will slow down the exhaust flow allowing for full cylinder filling at low RPM's, it will restrict the rate of flow at high rpms. In this instance, the restrictive exhaust does not permit the cylinder to flow the amount of exhaust gasses required to completely evacuate the cylinder of exhaust during that combustion cycle, meaning that the next combustion event will occur with some of the volume of the cylinder pre-filled with spent exhaust gasses. This does not allow for effective cylinder filling and this is why a highly restrictive exhaust will actually see a drop in torque at this high rpm. Concurrently, Horsepower will fall as well. 

On the other hand, a free flowing exhaust system will allow some unburnt fuel across into the exhaust flow during low RPM's, meaning that cylinder filling will not be at it's most efficient, because the exhaust did not restrict, and slow down the flow enough (create enough backpressure) to allow all of the exhaust out while keeping the intake charge in. The trade off, of course is that in the higher rpm ranges, the exhaust will flow at a rate sufficient to allow the exhaust to evacuate the cylinder while pulling in the incoming intake charge. This will not diminish the peak torque but rather just push it up the RPM ranges. If the intake and exhaust are correctly matched to the came, less backpressure might actually see an increase of peak torque because maximum cylinder filling occurs at the rpm level the cam was designed to operate at. Of course, usually all exhaust has its limits and there will become an rpm limit at which this free(er) flowing exhaust begins to restrict again, causing a drop in peak torque.

This is why you see diesels which are designed to create their peak torque down low in the rpm range have a relatively small exhaust port for the displacement usually while F1 engines on the opposite end of the spectrum have absolutely huge exhaust ports despite having perhaps only 300cc's of displacement per cylinder. So actually, backpressure isn't how much torque you want, but where exactly in the rev range you want the peak torque to occur, provided you're still operating within the limits of what rpm range the camshaft(s) were designed to be most efficient at. It's also why many headers listed for american V8's also come with RPM ranges they're designed to operate at, though most people just throw logic to the wind and buy the biggest ones available...

Of course, the topic of scavenging has been grossly oversimplified here and we're only adressing it from a backpressure point of view. There are many other things to take into consideration like the speed of the pressure wave created by the exhaust vs. the speed of the gasses themselves, the reversal of pressure waves at collectors and changes in exhaust diameter, the exhaust valve itself, and what happens to gasses at a merge collecter, but that's for a later day. :beer:

This is also why you'll see 'turbo' cams have a wider lobe separation, or less duration, or both. It's in an effort to reduce the overlap since when the engine creates boost, the turbo/super charger takes care of the cylinder filling for the engine, and tons of overlap would just cause the turbo/supercharger to blow unburnt intake charge out the exhaust. Talk to a couple NHRA engine builders if you ever get the chance. The cams in funny cars/top fuel dragsters are relatively mild in comparison to the huge-by-large cams the pro-stock normally aspirated guys run.


----------



## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

ravera said:


> On these engines, iirc a majority of the extra cooling capacity comes from oil cooling. I know that on some of the very high performance air cooled engines though porsche went to a water cooled cylinder head to help with the combustion chamber temps.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


all of that is true for NA motors. 

for turbos, any backpressure/low velocity is bad.


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

cockerpunk said:


> all of that is true for NA motors.
> 
> for turbos, any backpressure/low velocity is bad.


:thumbup::thumbup:

Forgot that part. Post turbo you want as little backpressure as you can stand while keeping turbine blade temps under control (you cant just leave an open flange on the turbo and expect it to last). The dance with turbo manifolds isn't about backpressure, but about figuring out what exhaust velocity you need to spool the turbo while keeping the runner size large enough to support the turbine RPM required to flow the amount of air you want to.


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

Aside from gearing, all that really matters as a car moves forward is HP generated across the rev range. Peak HP doesn't really translate to driveability, as you can't drive around at 6,000 RPM all the time. A "torquey" engine will have a relatively high HP output at low revs, making it move well at those speeds. An engine with relatively low torque will need to make its power through revs, hence the lower HP number at low revs compared to the first example.


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## ByronLLN (Jul 29, 2004)

sjt1985 said:


> Have you checked the tie rods and wheel bearings?


And your engine mounts. How smoothly does it idle?


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## S WORD (Jul 21, 2011)

Why do my rear tires have issues?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

S WORD said:


> Why do my rear tires have issues?


I'm no expert but maybe their daddy didn't love them as training wheel tires.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

S WORD said:


> Why do my rear tires have issues?


what do you drive?


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## compy222 (Apr 8, 2005)

S WORD said:


> Why do my rear tires have issues?


what kind of car?


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## therichisgood (Mar 7, 2004)

Might have already been answered but:

Why are 5-60mph times usually more than 0-60mph times? Wouldn't the car already rolling shave time off?


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

Because you aren't dropping the clutch at the optimal RPM. It uses the engines low torque to get moving. Most people don't want to drop the clutch so a 5-60 gives a bit more realistic time of acceleration.


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## therichisgood (Mar 7, 2004)

mellbergVWfan said:


> Because you aren't dropping the clutch at the optimal RPM. It uses the engines low torque to get moving. Most people don't want to drop the clutch so a 5-60 gives a bit more realistic time of acceleration.



Ahh ok I totally should have known that! Thanks :thumbup:


----------



## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

I was cleaning the windshield on the 74 corolla, and noticed some weird coloring along the edge. What is this? I think it is the laminate discoloring, something I should be worried about? Don't mind the crappy drywall work.

Untitled by jdjessee, on Flickr


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Seems like it might be the glass delaminating, or the atmosphere discoloring the laminating material (if it's not glued glass), which happens a lot on older cars, but nothing to worry about until it cracks.


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## IC AI (Aug 29, 2008)

PassSedanGLX said:


> And your engine mounts. How smoothly does it idle?


The idle is very smooth, but it's a specific speed (with some variation depending on whether I am going uphill, flat or downhill), not a specific RPM. The wheel bearing idea makes a lot of sense to me... for now!

Thanks!


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## uglybaby (Mar 19, 2006)

Our 09 Jetta Sportwagen with the 2.5 will randomly give a really hard shift when cruising at about 40mph when you apply throttle after coasting for a bit. Seems as though it misses the gear and then slams in as though it was confused. Hard to duplicate, but the frequency seems to be increasing, or maybe I'm just driving the car more and noticing it. VW never seems to find it. Any thoughts or questions I should be asking them?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Why is this turning into a "diagnose my car" thread instead of the general engineering/learning about mechanics thread that it was?


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## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

so i didn't check all the pages in the thread to see if repost










why is one red and one white??


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## Mr. Clarkson (Jul 24, 2008)

2.0_Mazda said:


> so i didn't check all the pages in the thread to see if repost
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Fog light for Europe?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Yep, fog light and reverse. Done on cheaper cars or cars which weren't designed with an easy extra red light for one side. It's on the driver side, so a RHD car will have the opposite.


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## 557688 (Aug 21, 2010)

Mr. Clarkson said:


> Fog light for Europe?


This. 
Note the European License Plate.


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## ph03n1x (Feb 22, 2011)

My friend has an 1990 NA Z32. Came out with 220hp at the crank. Assuming it has been serviced at regular intervals, how much HP would it have at the crank and wheels?

Now he wants to take me up to Riverside to a closed track and race him. Who would win in the race? I have a mk6 GTI, stock. I've seen his driving from the passenger seat and from what I've noticed he seems to stay on the clutch a tad too long during shifts; and he shifts slower than the average driver.


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

ph03n1x said:


> My friend has an 1990 NA Z32. Came out with 220hp at the crank. Assuming it has been serviced at regular intervals, how much HP would it have at the crank and wheels?


There is no set formula. Different engines and transmission combos have different loss. If I had to guess though I'd say somewhere in the 160whp range. 



> Now he wants to take me up to Riverside to a closed track and race him. Who would win in the race? I have a mk6 GTI, stock. I've seen his driving from the passenger seat and from what I've noticed he seems to stay on the clutch a tad too long during shifts; and he shifts slower than the average driver.


Who plays more GT5/Forza?


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## ph03n1x (Feb 22, 2011)

mellbergVWfan said:


> Who plays more GT5/Forza?


Hah neither of us.


----------



## stascom (Sep 12, 2009)

ravera said:


> On these engines, iirc a majority of the extra cooling capacity comes from oil cooling. I know that on some of the very high performance air cooled engines though porsche went to a water cooled cylinder head to help with the combustion chamber temps.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


:thumbup: thx


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

Mr Miyagi said:


> Note the European License Plate.


LEV = Leverkusen! Just down the road from me!


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

ravera said:


> It's about cylinder filling. In an engine there is a short duration of time where both the intake valves and exhaust valves are open at the same time, called overlap. The idea behind this is that the exhaust gasses leaving the chamber will 'pull' some of the intake charge into the cylinder, improving cylinder filling and thus, get a more full intake charge.


Wow. First off, :beer: for that post. Are you telling me that if I buy an exhaust for my car, it has the potential to alter the engine dynamics that much? An exhaust from company A can give more power in low rpms while B gives power at high rpms?

Also, I've read about the theory of exhaust gasses 'pulling' the intake gasses into the combustion chamber during overlap, but I don't really understand this phenomenon. The exhaust is being expelled by the piston on the exhaust stroke, after it leaves the chamber, there are no other forces except the backpressure from the exhaust. How can it pull intake air into the cylinder?


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## Fiasko (Oct 18, 2011)

I always wondered why my exhaust popped so much on low rpm, now I know


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## JeffIsLax (Mar 26, 2005)

sjt1985 said:


> Also, I've read about the theory of exhaust gasses 'pulling' the intake gasses into the combustion chamber during overlap, but I don't really understand this phenomenon. The exhaust is being expelled by the piston on the exhaust stroke, after it leaves the chamber, there are no other forces except the backpressure from the exhaust. How can it pull intake air into the cylinder?


It's a siphon effect. Once the exhaust has been put into motion by the piston's upward motion, the exhaust will draw gas from the intake track through the valve overlap.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

ravera said:


> It's about cylinder filling.........


Epic post. Excellent read. Thank you. :beer:

Now here's a question, suitable for this thread:
If specific exhaust backpressure values are better for producing torque at specific RPM ranges, why not develop a dynamic exhaust, perhaps with an adjustable aperture, that can maximize torque over a larger range of RPM?


----------



## oldster1 (Oct 24, 2011)

because you would only get around 7-12 additional lbs of torque...not worth the money.




(that was a complete guess but almost sounds true)


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

They do, that's what VVT does. Corvette had a dynamic exhaust that is rpm based too (or was it throttle based?), but that mainly affects sound only.


----------



## Tripicana (Dec 17, 2004)

some two stroke engines have an exhaust power valve. it changes the size, and opens more ports for the exhaust at higher rpm


----------



## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

What car models in the last ~30 years were rear wheel drive with a front-mounted flat engine (like the Scion FR-S is)?


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## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

Assle said:


> What car models in the last ~30 years were rear wheel drive with a front-mounted flat engine (like the Scion FR-S is)?


I think you just completed the list. All the Subarus I can think of in the past 20 years at least have either been FWD or AWD. Porsches flat engines were always behind the driver, from what I remember.


----------



## Dr. Woo (Feb 28, 2003)

Smigelski said:


> I think you just completed the list. All the Subarus I can think of in the past 20 years at least have either been FWD or AWD. Porsches flat engines were always behind the driver, from what I remember.


Truth. And from what I know, every other manufacturer's flat engine was used in a FF or F-AWD configuration.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Google search:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flat_engine

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tatra_11
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tatra_30

"sporty" doesn't look like it's strong suit


----------



## Turq (Nov 9, 2001)

First-generation Toyota Publicas used a front-mounted flat twin with a RWD configuration.


----------



## norman (Mar 8, 2001)

MrMook said:


> Epic post. Excellent read. Thank you. :beer:
> 
> Now here's a question, suitable for this thread:
> If specific exhaust backpressure values are better for producing torque at specific RPM ranges, why not develop a dynamic exhaust, perhaps with an adjustable aperture, that can maximize torque over a larger range of RPM?


Yamaha has done this for a long time on their sport bikes

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-stroke_power_valve_system

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yamaha_FZR1000


----------



## ktk (Jun 29, 2009)

ravera said:


> On these engines, iirc a majority of the extra cooling capacity comes from oil cooling. I know that on some of the very high performance air cooled engines though porsche went to a water cooled cylinder head to help with the combustion chamber temps.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


This has got to be one of the best reponses to a question I've seen in this thread so far. Great clear and accurate explanation :thumbup:


----------



## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

Are there any regulations that REQUIRE seat belt buckles to be bright red-orange?


----------



## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

I replaced all the rotors and pads on my Volvo and i hear some dragging on the disc/caliper sometimes. Will this go away over time or should i do something about it?


----------



## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

A.Wilder said:


> I replaced all the rotors and pads on my Volvo and i hear some dragging on the disc/caliper sometimes. Will this go away over time or should i do something about it?


You should do something about it. Seized or dragging calipers can happen after brake repair work if the rubber surround that protects the caliper piston is torn and something gets in there and/or if the piston wasn't retracted far enough when doing the repairs.


----------



## RemiRokosa (Jul 12, 2008)

Honestly, it's probably the flimsy metal dust shield rubbing against the rotor. Make sure it's not touching at all.


----------



## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

Factory window tint: What are the common VTL percentages from manufacturers? I assume they can be no lower than the highest % allowed in the US (Connecticut allows for 35%, front and rear). So why do some new cars have a visibly darker tint than that? I saw a new Audi Q5 with what looked to be limousine-grade tint on the rear-passenger and rear windows. I assume it was stock, just as minivans have the same super-dark tint as well.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I believe it's legal on rear wide windows, and sometimes the back window, but not the front and windshield? I think if it was supplied like that OEM, it gets an exemption (just like vans with no side or back windows).


----------



## tip (Aug 8, 2008)

Is it possible to create a synthetic fuel to run in internal combustion engines?


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

tip said:


> Is it possible to create a synthetic fuel to run in internal combustion engines?


Of course. Anything that is carbon-chain-based can run in an internal combustion engine. It's just not very cost effective to synthesize it from scratch.


----------



## tip (Aug 8, 2008)

ah, I didn't think about the cost-effective side of it.


----------



## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

DonPatrizio said:


> Factory window tint: What are the common VTL percentages from manufacturers? I assume they can be no lower than the highest % allowed in the US (Connecticut allows for 35%, front and rear). So why do some new cars have a visibly darker tint than that? I saw a new Audi Q5 with what looked to be limousine-grade tint on the rear-passenger and rear windows. I assume it was stock, just as minivans have the same super-dark tint as well.


I believe the exemption comes from weather it is classified as a truck, rather than a car.


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

I have a towing question.
Since more weight/traction would be over the rear axle when towing, do rear brakes do more work than usual? And if so, would it make sense on a tow rig to have big brakes (at least the same size as the fronts) in the rear too?


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

The braking system all around is under more strain when you're towing something, especially if that something is at or above the tow rating. The majority of the braking is still done by the front brakes, and this is even more so the case with towing because of the extra momentum from the additional weight being towed. That having been said, I don't think adding more braking capacity to the rear of the vehicle is necessary to compensate for the extra towing load. Furthermore, I believe if the braking system is going to be modified for towing, the focus should be on the proportioning settings rather than the size of the braking hardware.


----------



## DubNMiatafan (Feb 13, 2009)

Why do some cars turn off the low beams when you click the high beams on? I've driven a few cars that you can pull the high beam stalk for flash to pass and both high and low are on, but as soon as you click it into high beam mode, the low beams shut off. Why is this? My car leaves both on if you turn on high beams which is the way (I feel) it should be.


----------



## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

And, to add to that:
trailer brakes exist for a reason, too.  

A surge brake helps slow the trailer when you start braking (assuming that the trailer's brake works...); electric brakes on the trailer sync the trailer brakes to the tow vehicle's brakes more accurately - and, allow you to brake the trailer by itself when needed, too.

To wit
some years ago, I had the displeasure of helping a buddy bring a friend's stuff cross-country. Detroit to Ft. Lauderdale, towing a 6x6x12 (IIRC) box trailer with an S-10 Blazer (neither belonged to me...)
I *think* the surge brake on the trailer worked - kind of. It definitely did not have an electric brake (moot point, as he didn't have a brake controller in his Blazer, either.) 
Thing got scary in a cross-wind, and damned scary on a downhill grade - trailer would start wagging the truck. Would have been so nice to be able to just tap the trailer brake to get it back in line....


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

DubNMiatafan said:


> Why do some cars turn off the low beams when you click the high beams on? I've driven a few cars that you can pull the high beam stalk for flash to pass and both high and low are on, but as soon as you click it into high beam mode, the low beams shut off. Why is this? My car leaves both on if you turn on high beams which is the way (I feel) it should be.


Cars that do that have dual bulbs. Any car that has separate low and high will leave the lows on. It would be too much heat in a single filament bulb to have then both on.


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

tip said:


> Is it possible to create a synthetic fuel to run in internal combustion engines?





atomicalex said:


> Of course. Anything that is carbon-chain-based can run in an internal combustion engine. It's just not very cost effective to synthesize it from scratch.


True on the lack of cost effectiveness, but the real issue is that a "synthetic" fuel would be a primary source of energy but rather an energy storage medium. Petroleum (refined to gasoline) is a source of energy. Taking the energy from petroleum (or coal, neclear, hydro, etc.) and creating a new fuel isn't making any new energy avaiable, it's just changing the form (and losing some energy in the process).


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

VDub2625 said:


> Cars that do that have dual bulbs. Any car that has separate low and high will leave the lows on. It would be too much heat in a single filament bulb to have then both on.


Most do, but not all. '90s GM cars would turn off the low beams when switching on the high beams, despite the presence of four separate bulbs.

Single-bulb/dual filament headlights vary greatly in quality. I had a '10 Ranger before this Yaris and the ones in the Yaris are about 1000x better than the Ranger's.


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## ph03n1x (Feb 22, 2011)

What are mesh wheels?


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

Wheels with spokes that appear to intersect. 




























Although nowadays wheels like this are considered Mesh wheels. But they're really just multi-spokes. True mesh wheels have spokes that look woven together like i posted above.


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## feels_road (Jan 27, 2005)

IJM said:


> True on the lack of cost effectiveness, but the real issue is that a "synthetic" fuel would be a primary source of energy but rather an energy storage medium. Petroleum (refined to gasoline) is a source of energy. Taking the energy from petroleum (or coal, neclear, hydro, etc.) and creating a new fuel isn't making any new energy avaiable, it's just changing the form (and losing some energy in the process).


Unless it is _almost_ a primary energy source. Like, when you create Diesel from biomass (SunFuel rather than SynFuel), or better yet, from sunlight directly via algae or gene-manipulated plants.

Also, you can use electricity from wind or solar that is difficult to store in times of abundance (and thus not used), and create hydrogen, methane ("city gas") with readily available CO_2 from power plants, and more complex hydrocarbons without having to create expensive and wasteful energy storage facilities.


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## JeffIsLax (Mar 26, 2005)

Quick addition to the mesh wheel discussion. They are alloys designed to simulate wire wheels from the days of yore. 










As far as the BBS LM's and those other wheels that mellberg said are not "true" mesh wheels, who is to say that if you recreated that design out of wire the spokes would not cross just outside of the wheel center. It is similar to the design of bicycle wheels, where you have one cross, two cross, and three cross designs which are based on how many intersections a spoke makes with the others. The wheel below would be the bicycle equivalent of an LM :laugh:


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## Biff Beltsander (Jul 14, 2010)

Does using a remote car starter use more fuel when starting the engine then the key?
Obviously the intent is to let the car idle and warm up the engine and running for a while longer will use fuel. I have herd that the remote starter will use more fuel initially then the key, would love to have some clarification.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Nitzer said:


> Does using a remote car starter use more fuel when starting the engine then the key?
> Obviously the intent is to let the car idle and warm up the engine and running for a while longer will use fuel. I have herd that the remote starter will use more fuel initially then the key, would love to have some clarification.


Other than the idle time, I don't see how that's possible. What's the difference between the key activation and remote activation? None that I can see. It's actually much better for your car and your mileage to give it some warm-up time at fast idle than to simply start driving it cold.


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## Biff Beltsander (Jul 14, 2010)

barry2952 said:


> Other than the idle time, I don't see how that's possible. What's the difference between the key activation and remote activation? None that I can see. It's actually much better for your car and your mileage to give it some warm-up time at fast idle than to simply start driving it cold.


I was aware that warming up the engine was better for the car and a warm engine would increase mileage. That with the safety of clear windows is why I use a remote starter and let the car idle even with wondering if this might lead to higher fuel consumption.

For the sake of the question, let's assume it's a nice mild day where you'd normally not think of idling for long before driving. A few people told me that it uses more fuel to start which is why I ask. Although, it sounds like you're already saying that's not likely, which is exactly what I wanted to hear.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

barry2952 said:


> It's actually much better for your car and your mileage to give it some warm-up time at fast idle than to simply start driving it cold.


Why is this? I've heard different opinions, and some would say that you can just turn the key and go: It doesn't take long for the oil pump to circulate the goods, and with multiweight oil, there shouldn't be any "warm up" needed.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

I start my car, wait for the lifter tick to stop (3-4 seconds on the coldest morning), and then drive, keeping the revs under 2200 rpms for a few minutes.

My TDI doesn't make enough waste heat to maintain engine temp at idle, so warming it this way would take forever. Best way to warm it is to drive it.


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## JeffIsLax (Mar 26, 2005)

MrMook said:


> Why is this? I've heard different opinions, and some would say that you can just turn the key and go: It doesn't take long for the oil pump to circulate the goods, and with multiweight oil, there shouldn't be any "warm up" needed.


As far as mileage, I believe it is because the intake and engine has not come up to temperature, so the fuel does not mix with the air as well as it should and it doesn't burn as efficiently. It seems like it should be a bigger issue with carburetors and much less of an issue with direct injection.


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## ktk (Jun 29, 2009)

On modern passenger vehicles, it is no longer necessary to warm up the car prior to driving in cold weather. Engines are designed now to warm up during the first few minutes of driving and will do so quicker and more effectively when it is under load than if it is sitting and idling. 

Good practice is to start car give it maybe 5-10 seconds just to get fluids circulating and then start your driving. Be gentle and keep revs low until coolant and oil temps get up to spec. There is no need to waste gas idling for 3-5 mins in the driveway. That is just a waste of fuel.


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## Biff Beltsander (Jul 14, 2010)

MrMook said:


> Why is this? I've heard different opinions, and some would say that you can just turn the key and go: It doesn't take long for the oil pump to circulate the goods, and with multiweight oil, there shouldn't be any "warm up" needed.


My father in law is a mechanic, he says that a cold engine uses more fuel. Also, I've read articles about maintaining higher mileage vehicles and the owners usually recommend letting the vehicle idle for a few minutes.
My personal finding is that a very cold engine sounds like it's working considerably harder. Working harder usually means more energy is being used, energy comes from the fuel.



JeffIsLax said:


> As far as mileage, I believe it is because the intake and engine has not come up to temperature, so the fuel does not mix with the air as well as it should and it doesn't burn as efficiently. It seems like it should be a bigger issue with carburetors and much less of an issue with direct injection.


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## Biff Beltsander (Jul 14, 2010)

ktk said:


> On modern passenger vehicles, it is no longer necessary to warm up the car prior to driving in cold weather. Engines are designed now to warm up during the first few minutes of driving and will do so quicker and more effectively when it is under load than if it is sitting and idling.
> 
> Good practice is to start car give it maybe 5-10 seconds just to get fluids circulating and then start your driving. Be gentle and keep revs low until coolant and oil temps get up to spec. There is no need to waste gas idling for 3-5 mins in the driveway. That is just a waste of fuel.


I've herd that all you need is a few seconds as well, less then a minute. However, winters get a lot colder here then many can imagine. If you don't give the vehicle enough time to warm up your windows are going to get frosty from your breath and you have a safety concern. That being said, it also seems like it could affect the longevity of the vehicle.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Nitzer said:


> My father in law is a mechanic, he says that a cold engine uses more fuel. Also, I've read articles about maintaining higher mileage vehicles and the owners usually recommend letting the vehicle idle for a few minutes.
> My personal finding is that a very cold engine sounds like it's working considerably harder. Working harder usually means more energy is being used, energy comes from the fuel.


I would concur. Tolerances are tighter on a cold engine and oil viscosity is higher, causing a drag that disappears when the oil warms.


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## GLIRyder (Jan 23, 2008)

ktk said:


> On modern passenger vehicles, it is no longer necessary to warm up the car prior to driving in cold weather. Engines are designed now to warm up during the first few minutes of driving and will do so quicker and more effectively when it is under load than if it is sitting and idling.
> 
> Good practice is to start car give it maybe 5-10 seconds just to get fluids circulating and then start your driving. Be gentle and keep revs low until coolant and oil temps get up to spec. There is no need to waste gas idling for 3-5 mins in the driveway. That is just a waste of fuel.


This... /topic

The remote versus key question is silly. The process for a motor starting is the exact same (fuel pump and starter/ignition) regardless of if it is done with an electronic remote or with an actual key.


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## ktk (Jun 29, 2009)

Nitzer said:


> I've herd that all you need is a few seconds as well, less then a minute. However, winters get a lot colder here then many can imagine. If you don't give the vehicle enough time to warm up your windows are going to get frosty from your breath and you have a safety concern. That being said, it also seems like it could affect the longevity of the vehicle.


Hehe, I lived in Winnipeg for 20 years! -20 to -30 for most of Jan/Feb was the standard. That said, every manufacturer does extensive cold testing on new vehicles in northern Canada/Scandinavia as part of normal development. Any modern passenger car will be just fine with a few seconds of runtime and then a gentle warmup during driving. Frosted windows and such are a completely different issue, and a definite safety concern. 

If you can deal with the cold for a few minutes, driving for the first few minutes with side windows partly cracked open will help prevent windows from fogging up by ventilating the warm moist air that you and your passengers are exhaling. 

Older carbeurated cars, specialty high performance cars with high strung race engines/forged internals will be a bit more picky if they were not designed or tuned to run in extreme cold. But for any modern passenger car, cold weather is not really an issue.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

To answer the remote question with some tech talk, remote starters have a few ways of working. Some are time-based, meaning they'll crank the starter for, say 2 seconds (or whatever you program). Most are installed with an rpm sense feature, however. This means that, if programmed correctly, the remote start brain will stop cranking when it senses the engine pass idle speed. This may be the source of the fuel myth, some people might think overcranking (from the first scenario) might lead to more fuel consumption. It'll lead to starter wear, but not more fuel consumption.

As for warm up being good or bad, both ways use lots of fuel (cold engine driving and long idling), but the driving scenario warns up faster, and doesn't wear the engine that much more (cars are designed for it nowadays). The idle scenario will warn the car up slower, but if its colder, that's ok by the driver, because you stay in your warn house  & the fuel you waste is negligible in either case anyway.


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## Biff Beltsander (Jul 14, 2010)

VDub2625 said:


> To answer the remote question with some tech talk, remote starters have a few ways of working. Some are time-based, meaning they'll crank the starter for, say 2 seconds (or whatever you program). Most are installed with an rpm sense feature, however. This means that, if programmed correctly, the remote start brain will stop cranking when it senses the engine pass idle speed. This may be the source of the fuel myth, some people might think overcranking (from the first scenario) might lead to more fuel consumption. It'll lead to starter wear, but not more fuel consumption.
> 
> As for warm up being good or bad, both ways use lots of fuel (cold engine driving and long idling), but the driving scenario warns up faster, and doesn't wear the engine that much more (cars are designed for it nowadays). The idle scenario will warn the car up slower, but if its colder, that's ok by the driver, because you stay in your warn house  & the fuel you waste is negligible in either case anyway.


Some good points there for sure. I have heard about starter wear as well. And it's a car over ten years old as well so I'm sure the starter has enough of it's own wear as it is. In fact, I don't even use the remote starter when the car is in the garage. Does not seem necessary. It's more for if I go somewhere like work where it's sitting outside in the cold for more then eight hours.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

As long as the cutoff is RPM-based, it'll be just like you turned the key. If it struggles to start, it'll crank a bit longer. if it fires right up, as soon as it passes that mark it shuts off, just like you would.

I have a question. Why are some engines designed "backwards", exhaust at the front (in a transverse setting)? That seems like it just overly complicates the exhaust for no reason. I was thinking maybe cooling, but a well-designed rear exhaust setup should work just as well, and not cause excessive oil pan and radiator heat.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

barry2952 said:


> I would concur. Tolerances are tighter on a cold engine and oil viscosity is higher, causing a drag that disappears when the oil warms.


That's why we have multi-weight oils.
With multi-weight oil, the viscosity actually increases as the engine warms. 10w40 starts cold as a 10-weight oil, to get things moving, then (I think due to chemical additives) it behaves like a heavier 40-weight oil while the engine is hot, so it maintains proper lubrication at operating temperature.


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## jettafan[atic] (Dec 2, 2008)

Also aren't tolerances larger when the engine is cold? I'm just about positive that tolerances tighten as the engine heats up because everything expands as it gets hotter. Decreased efficiency at cold startup would more likely be caused by blowby because the rings and various seals wouldnt be as tight as they should be.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

MrMook said:


> That's why we have multi-weight oils.
> With multi-weight oil, the viscosity actually increases as the engine warms. 10w40 starts cold as a 10-weight oil, to get things moving, then (I think due to chemical additives) it behaves like a heavier 40-weight oil while the engine is hot, so it maintains proper lubrication at operating temperature.


Agreed. It is the additive, it has something to do with molecules uncurling when they get hot. 



jettafan[atic] said:


> Also aren't tolerances larger when the engine is cold? I'm just about positive that tolerances tighten as the engine heats up because everything expands as it gets hotter. Decreased efficiency at cold startup would more likely be caused by blowby because the rings and various seals wouldnt be as tight as they should be.


Yes, heat=expansion and 'tightening up", but modern engines are designed with alloys and controlled expansion (they engineer ahead for that stuff, which is why modern engines with modern materials are better at it than old engines). There is minimal blowby when cold.




VDub2625 said:


> I have a question. Why are some engines designed "backwards", exhaust at the front (in a transverse setting)? That seems like it just overly complicates the exhaust for no reason. I was thinking maybe cooling, but a well-designed rear exhaust setup should work just as well, and not cause excessive oil pan and radiator heat.


Didn't want my question to get lost on the last page.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

VDub2625 said:


> Didn't want my question to get lost on the last page.


I'd like to see this addressed as well. It may be becuase you can set the engine further back, and not worry about routing the hot exhaust that close to the firewall. Intakes runners of many of those cars (small, low torque, higher revving) are short, and usually on top of the engine, as opposed to behind it.


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## compy222 (Apr 8, 2005)

i was asked this question the other day and had a spirited argument about it -

*does rain effect your fuel economy?*

are you getting less traction off your tires and therefore your motor doing more work = more fuel burned? or are you getting less rolling resistance off your tires = less fuel burned.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I've noticed my economy drops in rain. water had a higher weight than air, and you're driving through it.


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

VDub2625 said:


> Yes, heat=expansion and 'tightening up", but modern engines are designed with alloys and controlled expansion (they engineer ahead for that stuff, which is why modern engines with modern materials are better at it than old engines). There is minimal blowby when cold.


Not really new materials on modern engines. They just use hypereutectic pistons. They've been around for quite a while, and they offer a very low amount of thermal expansion so they can have tighter cold tolerances. The big advances recently, imo, are in rings. They're finding ways to make harder and harder rings but still be able to tolerate detonation.



VDub2625 said:


> Didn't want my question to get lost on the last page.


I'm going to guess it's a simple case of it's the way the engine is setup before it's bolted in the car and the way they need the engine to sit for the trans to work that they want to run. Most companies have a pretty standardized set of which side the exhaust comes out of on an inline engine. eg the exhaust on Nissan and toyota front drive (JZ/M are exceptions, I'm sure some of their rwd engines are also exceptions) engines usually comes out the right side as viewed from the front while on BMW, MBZ, Honda, VW, etc it tends to come out the left side as viewed from the front of the engine. 

I'm guessing whatever fits is what works. I think an argument for the exhaust coming out of the front of the engine is when Mitsu flipped the 4G around on the EVO, and I'm guessing that was just for more turbo room. Other than things like that, the only reason I can think of is that it's easier to avoid a transmission from wrapping around the front and going under it than trying to snake around it from back.


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## palakaman (Oct 8, 2006)

Did the Cobalt SS come in a four door version?


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

Wiki says yes.


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## Biff Beltsander (Jul 14, 2010)

palakaman said:


> Did the Cobalt SS come in a four door version?


The Cobalt SS and Pursuit GT were both available in 4dr, naturally aspirated only.


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

compy222 said:


> i was asked this question the other day and had a spirited argument about it -
> 
> *does rain effect your fuel economy?*
> 
> are you getting less traction off your tires and therefore your motor doing more work = more fuel burned? or are you getting less rolling resistance off your tires = less fuel burned.


I wonder if the air being colder and more dense may cause fuel economy to drop. Assuming the engine ECU can read that and compensate with more fuel. 



Nitzer said:


> The Cobalt SS and Pursuit GT were both available in 4dr, naturally aspirated only.


Maybe Canada only got the Naturally Aspirated Sedan but we definitely got a Turbo Sedan. Not sure on the earlier Supercharged ones though.


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## Biff Beltsander (Jul 14, 2010)

mellbergVWfan said:


> Maybe Canada only got the Naturally Aspirated Sedan but we definitely got a Turbo Sedan. Not sure on the earlier Supercharged ones though.


I'm impressed Mell.



> initially available only as a coupe until a sedan option was offered for the 2009 model year but again deleted for 2010 after less than 500 were produced.[10]


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## TurboMinivan (Mar 17, 2003)

This was a fantastic post. However, there is one clarification which ought to be made.



ravera said:


> This is also why you'll see 'turbo' cams have a wider lobe separation, or less duration, or both. It's in an effort to reduce the overlap since when the engine creates boost, the turbo/super charger takes care of the cylinder filling for the engine, and *tons of overlap would just cause the turbo/supercharger to blow unburnt intake charge out the exhaust*.


I used to erroneously think this, too. But then Corky Bell pointed something out to me that I hadn't considered, which is the amount of exhaust backpressure (measured at the exhaust valve itself) compared to the amount of boost you are running. 

Example: let's say for a given car with an add-on turbo system, the grand total of exhaust backpressure (exhaust manifold + turbine housing + catalytic converter(s) + exhaust pipe + resonator + exhaust pipe + muffler) as measured at the exhaust valve at a particular engine speed is 15 psi. Let's say this engine's turbocharger is making 10 psi of boost as measured in the intake manifold. If there is camshaft overlap and both the intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time, the pressure just outside the intake valve is lower than the pressure just outside the exhaust valve. As a result, the incoming charge air _will not_ simply pass through the cylinder and escape out the open exhaust valve! Instead, the exhaust gas still trying to leave the cylinder will now see the open intake valve as a more favorable escape route and it will try to enter the intake manifold rather than the exhaust manifold. This will prevent any charge air from entering the cylinder, much less passing though it and going out the exhaust valve. As soon as the exhaust valves closes, however, the exhaust reversion stops and the now-slightly-diluted charge air will finally begin to fill the cylinder as desired. 

As you can see, valve overlap _is_ undesirable on most force-inducted engines... just not for the reason you might think.

When building a force-inducted engine for truly maximum performance, one engineering goal is to achieve "crossover" (I think that's what Corky calls it). This means the total amount of backpressure at the exhaust valve is *less* than the amount of boost pressure in the intake. When this scenario is created--and it is exceedingly rare in a daily/street-driven vehicle--prodigious amounts of horsepower are the result. In this case, valve overlap really could blow the charge air right out the exhaust valve.


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## 5P4RK4 (Jun 24, 2004)

compy222 said:


> i was asked this question the other day and had a spirited argument about it -
> 
> *does rain effect your fuel economy?*
> 
> are you getting less traction off your tires and therefore your motor doing more work = more fuel burned? or are you getting less rolling resistance off your tires = less fuel burned.



Rain does effect your fuel economy, it makes it worse, but for neither of these reasons. Driving on a road with water on it is like driving slightly uphill all the time. The lower temp might make your tires rolling resistance slightly less, but you still have to push that water out of the way/roll on top of it.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

TurboMinivan said:


> When building a force-inducted engine for truly maximum performance, one engineering goal is to achieve "crossover" (I think that's what Corky calls it). This means the total amount of backpressure at the exhaust valve is *less* than the amount of boost pressure in the intake. When this scenario is created--and it is exceedingly rare in a daily/street-driven vehicle--prodigious amounts of horsepower are the result. In this case, valve overlap really could blow the charge air right out the exhaust valve.


 Really cool, how would one do that? 
And for peak HP, not considering lag or anything else really, if a motor could handle a small turbo at 7psi making 200 hp, is there anymore stress or peak power with bigger/higher flowing turbo at 7psi? Assuming same tech, maybe even same housing. The reason I ask, is I had a 86 volvo 760 with a big garret turbo, it blew so I put the newest one I could find at the junk yard which was a smaller mistu turbo (off another 7xx) with a different manifold. The forums said the mistu spooled quicker, and had the same rating only because of the better manifold.


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## TurboMinivan (Mar 17, 2003)

monoaural said:


> Really cool, how would one do that?


Basically, you'd need to build an F1 car from the 1980s. (Corky pointed out that this crossover effect was one key contributor to making 1000+ HP with just 1.5L of displacement.) On an actual race car, you can essentially toss the entire post-turbo exhaust system in the garbage. This would mean the only two causes of exhaust backpressure are the manifold and the turbine itself. Of course, the engineers will have specified a tuned, equal-length header which produces the smallest possible amount of flow restriction, so that leaves the turbine. For low restriction, you'll want a properly-designed wheel and the biggest a/r housing which will still spool the compressor to the desired speed for your power needs.

Corky feels that a well-designed street turbo system should have a turbine inlet pressure to intake manifold pressure ratio of about 2:1. If the ratio is higher than that, the turbine is probably too small and is choking off the engine's (top end) horsepower. If the ratio is lower than that, the engine's boost threshold will probably be higher than desirable in a street-driven car.



monoaural said:


> And for peak HP, not considering lag or anything else really, if a motor could handle a small turbo at 7psi making 200 hp, is there anymore stress or peak power with bigger/higher flowing turbo at 7psi?


There can definitely be more power at the same boost pressure with a larger turbo, for two main reasons. The lesser reason is tied to the compressor: a more efficient compressor wheel will add less heat to the charge air than a less efficient compressor wheel, and the lower charge temp will promote more torque and power. The bigger reason is related to the turbine: a larger turbine offers less restriction to the exhaust gases leaving the engine. So long as the larger turbine can still spin the compressor to build the same 7 psi at the same RPM, this larger turbine will make more horsepower than the smaller one (even though the engine isn't making any more boost).



monoaural said:


> The forums said the mistu spooled quicker, and had the same rating only because of the better manifold.


A smaller turbine will spool faster (read: at a lower RPM) than a larger one. This generally has the effect of shifting your entire torque curve lower in the rev range. As an negative effect, your top-end horsepower will be reduced--perhaps severely--due to the greater exhaust restriction.


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

You're absolutely right, I've read his book before and cant believe I missed that. Thanks for correcting me :thumbup:


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## Biff Beltsander (Jul 14, 2010)

My windows freeze into the door frame for basically all winter. This happens every winter in the five years I've owned the car. I park in my non-heated detached garage at home yet that does not help the problem. Driving for a few hours with the heat on does not help either. This is frustrating for paying for parking, crossing the border, fast food, or the fine art of smoking as I am unable to open the windows.
Can anyone make a suggestion?

This is not my car.


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

Nitzer said:


> My windows freeze into the door frame for basically all winter. This happens every winter in the five years I've owned the car. I park in my non-heated detached garage at home yet that does not help the problem. Driving for a few hours with the heat on does not help either. This is frustrating for paying for parking, crossing the border, fast food, or the fine art of smoking as I am unable to open the windows.
> Can anyone make a suggestion?
> 
> This is not my car.


Maybe when you park the car at night open the windows slight so that the rubber window seal doesnt touch the glass. I'm guessing that is what causes it to stick.


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## Biff Beltsander (Jul 14, 2010)

mellbergVWfan said:


> Maybe when you park the car at night open the windows slight so that the rubber window seal doesnt touch the glass. I'm guessing that is what causes it to stick.


That is a very good suggestion in theory. However, this is a hateful car that will have the window frozen into the frame in a matter of hours. I work downtown and overnight and get my car broken into enough, leaving the windows open a crack makes the car more tempting to stick a coat hanger in the opening and pop the locks.
If I leave the window down a slight bit so there is no opening that can be seen yet the window is not rolled up into the frame completely there is a chance of it freezing like that and causing whistling as well as slush or melting snow in as the weather is never consistent here.


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

Yeah that was one of my concerns about that idea. Maybe you could invent side windows with a defroster option.


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## Biff Beltsander (Jul 14, 2010)

mellbergVWfan said:


> Yeah that was one of my concerns about that idea. Maybe you could invent side windows with a defroster option.


Invent no, some American car had them in the 50's or 60's. Apparently the car had the heated strips like the rear defrost on a car on the side windows. The cost of replacement was very high and the electrical system could not keep up so the idea did not last.
In fact now with the glass policies that many insurance companies have it may never return.
I would pretty much love that now, especially if I could start the defrosters from my phone as remote start does not turn on the defrosters.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

I've never seen a side window defroster. Got a picture?


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## Biff Beltsander (Jul 14, 2010)

barry2952 said:


> I've never seen a side window defroster. Got a picture?


I wish I had one, a retired mechanic told me a story about a car that had defrost on every window and how it shorted out, exploded a window, and fried the electrical system. Customer could not afford to fix the car as it was not worth it, and the car got scrapped.
I don't even know what kind of car it was to search for a picture.

So you don't go away empty handed, here's a suv or something with side windows (not what I was talking about as I was referring to all windows) with defrost strips in a side window.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Nitzer said:


> I wish I had one, a retired mechanic told me a story about a car that had defrost on every window and how it shorted out, exploded a window, and fried the electrical system. Customer could not afford to fix the car as it was not worth it, and the car got scrapped.
> I don't even know what kind of car it was to search for a picture.
> 
> So you don't go away empty handed, here's a suv or something with side windows (not what I was talking about as I was referring to all windows) with defrost strips in a side window.


I don't see how that would work as a defroster without complete circuits. The rear one just dead ends.


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## Biff Beltsander (Jul 14, 2010)

barry2952 said:


> I don't see how that would work as a defroster without complete circuits. The rear one just dead ends.


More then likely magic, or sorcery.
I have no idea.


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## mraguilar (Sep 27, 2004)

Nitzer said:


> More then likely magic, or sorcery.
> I have no idea.


Looks like an antenna for me


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## sicc83 (Jan 22, 2005)

It ends because it's an antenna.

edit: ^beat me by a minute.:laugh:


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## Biff Beltsander (Jul 14, 2010)

mraguilar said:


> Looks like an antenna for me


The forum I grabbed the picture from was debating that as well. Some people were sure it was an antenna, others figured as there is the same thing on the other side it must be defrost. Some cars I have seen, wagons or SUV's, vans even. Do have defrost on the rear side cargo bay windows as they don't roll down. Either way, that picture being defrost or not, irrelevant to my question.

Windows freezing in frames, can't roll down in the winter, solutions?


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

Nitzer said:


> Windows freezing in frames, can't roll down in the winter, solutions?


 Running the seal with petroleum jelly? Or something similar, to displce the water. A bit messy, but it may even work with very thin coat. I used it to keep the miatas top seals from leaking until I sourced some new ones. Water just rolled off of them, instead of seaping through.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

monoaural said:


> Running the seal with petroleum jelly? Or something similar, to displce the water. A bit messy, but it may even work with very thin coat. I used it to keep the miatas top seals from leaking until I sourced some new ones. Water just rolled off of them, instead of seaping through.


I would think that a little wax might work well. Dirt will stick to oil or petroleum jelly.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

I think that if you whittled some bar soap down to the thickness of the weatherstrip channel and rubbed it inside that might act as a barrier to the window bonding with the weatherstrip.

In thinking about it though, I would think that the door top weatherstrip might be the culprit. It would certainly build up a ridge of ice that the motor might have trouble overcoming. Don't know what to suggest on that except a scraper.

My 750iL has a lock cylinder heater. Can't remember how it works, but it's there.:facepalm:


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## Biff Beltsander (Jul 14, 2010)

barry2952 said:


> I would think that a little wax might work well. Dirt will stick to oil or petroleum jelly.





barry2952 said:


> I think that if you whittled some bar soap down to the thickness of the weatherstrip channel and rubbed it inside that might act as a barrier to the window bonding with the weatherstrip.
> 
> In thinking about it though, I would think that the door top weatherstrip might be the culprit. It would certainly build up a ridge of ice that the motor might have trouble overcoming. Don't know what to suggest on that except a scraper.
> 
> My 750iL has a lock cylinder heater. Can't remember how it works, but it's there.:facepalm:


Thanks, I am going to play it safe and try the soap on one of the rear windows as a test. If it works then I'll try it on the other windows. I never would of thought of that in a million years. Might even try the jelly on another rear window.
As far as a lock cylinder heater, that's a neat feature yet it seems almost strange as remote unlock had been available for a few years before the 750 was produced.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Nitzer said:


> Thanks, I am going to play it safe and try the soap on one of the rear windows as a test. If it works then I'll try it on the other windows. I never would of thought of that in a million years. Might even try the jelly on another rear window.
> As far as a lock cylinder heater, that's a neat feature yet it seems almost strange as remote unlock had been available for a few years before the 750 was produced.


Nope. The first 750 was '88. Car remote, it had not. It did, however, have a neat flashlight in the laser-cut key.


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## SoTxBill (Jan 14, 2001)

...or, its because british cars were so hard to steer, you need the strong hand on the wheel...


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

SoTxBill said:


> ...or, its because british cars were so hard to steer, you need the strong hand on the wheel...


What were you responding to?


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

barry2952 said:


> I think that if you whittled some bar soap down to the thickness of the weatherstrip channel and rubbed it inside that might act as a barrier to the window bonding with the weatherstrip.
> 
> In thinking about it though, I would think that the door top weatherstrip might be the culprit. It would certainly build up a ridge of ice that the motor might have trouble overcoming. Don't know what to suggest on that except a scraper.


 Could also try Rain-X on the glass. Apply to the _entire_ outside face of the window, the top edge, and the top 1/4" of the inside. The level of slippery that it adds is amazing. (I've used it to shut up noisey side glass on convertibles (stops the 'seal shuffle' noise), as well as to, ah, mask over the problem of worn flocking on the belt weatherstrips.)



barry2952 said:


> My 750iL has a lock cylinder heater. Can't remember how it works, but it's there.:facepalm:


 Assuming that they still work, that's easy:
Car locked, lift the door handle (and, IIRC, release.) Wait (maybe 30 seconds?) Bam! Warm cylinder!


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

cuppie said:


> Assuming that they still work, that's easy:
> Car locked, lift the door handle (and, IIRC, release.) Wait (maybe 30 seconds?) Bam! Warm cylinder!


I haven't used the car in the snow since 1990, but I'll remember that.


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## Biff Beltsander (Jul 14, 2010)

barry2952 said:


> Nope. The first 750 was '88. Car remote, it had not. It did, however, have a neat flashlight in the laser-cut key.


I mean the technology was available. Renault premiered it with the Fuego in the early 80's.


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## Biff Beltsander (Jul 14, 2010)

cuppie said:


> Could also try Rain-X on the glass. Apply to the _entire_ outside face of the window, the top edge, and the top 1/4" of the inside. The level of slippery that it adds is amazing. (I've used it to shut up noisey side glass on convertibles (stops the 'seal shuffle' noise), as well as to, ah, mask over the problem of worn flocking on the belt weatherstrips.)
> 
> Assuming that they still work, that's easy:
> Car locked, lift the door handle (and, IIRC, release.) Wait (maybe 30 seconds?) Bam! Warm cylinder!


Going to for sure pick up some rain-x as well, I have four windows that roll down, worth it to try something on all of them for sure.

How the 750 lock heaters work, awesome.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

ravera said:


> I'm going to guess it's a simple case of it's the way the engine is setup before it's bolted in the car and the way they need the engine to sit for the trans to work that they want to run. Most companies have a pretty standardized set of which side the exhaust comes out of on an inline engine. eg the exhaust on Nissan and toyota front drive (JZ/M are exceptions, I'm sure some of their rwd engines are also exceptions) engines usually comes out the right side as viewed from the front while on BMW, MBZ, Honda, VW, etc it tends to come out the left side as viewed from the front of the engine.
> 
> I'm guessing whatever fits is what works. I think an argument for the exhaust coming out of the front of the engine is when Mitsu flipped the 4G around on the EVO, and I'm guessing that was just for more turbo room. Other than things like that, the only reason I can think of is that it's easier to avoid a transmission from wrapping around the front and going under it than trying to snake around it from back.


I suppose... VW had their 1.3 and smaller engines canted forward with exhaust on front, their 1.5 and larger canted backward with exhaust on back. The 1.5l engine family started in longitudinal Audis, not sure about the 1.3 family.

Audi had heated locks in the late 80s too. Worked the same way.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I would like more info on oxygen sensors with more than 4 wires. I know all about 1/3/4 wire sensors, but I had to do one on a newer sulev car and the sensor was called an "air fuel ratio sensor" (instead of the normal 4 wire oxygen sensors of the normal emissions cars) and I was wondering what the two extra wires do. Apparently they require the sensor to cost twice as much


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## jettafan[atic] (Dec 2, 2008)

Could have been a heated O2 sensor, IIRC they heat up right away at startup to give more accurate cold emission readings. Or it could have been a wideband O2 sensor but I'm not too positive on what advantages those have.


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

Bosch wideband sensor (AKA 'planar zirconia O2 sensor') that would be. 
Quick version:
A traditional narrow-band sensor (1-4 wires) can only accurately measure a 'proper' exhaust mixture - it can't tell you _how rich or lean it is (you knew this already.)
A Wideband sensor can do this - it can tell the ECU the exact air/fuel ratio (hence, the new name you learned for it.)

Some articles, datasheets, etc:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen_sensor#Wideband_zirconia_sensor
http://wbo2.com/lsu/lsuworks.htm
http://www.boschsparkplugs.net/glossary.asp?manID=25&kw=Wide Band
This one has a decent diagram in the explanation (on p.3):
http://wbo2.com/lsu/oxygen13-17.pdf

And, Google for Bosch LSU 4, or Bosch wideband zirconia sensor.

I got a really, really great handout back at E65 training (damn, that was a long time ago) explaining exactly-ish how the things work. 
Really wish I could find that online..._


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## jettafan[atic] (Dec 2, 2008)

Thanks Cuppie! :beer:


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## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

Are there any regulations that REQUIRE seat belt buckles to be bright red-orange?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

cuppie said:


> Bosch wideband sensor (AKA 'planar zirconia O2 sensor') that would be.
> Quick version:
> A traditional narrow-band sensor (1-4 wires) can only accurately measure a 'proper' exhaust mixture - it can't tell you _how rich or lean it is (you knew this already.)
> A Wideband sensor can do this - it can tell the ECU the exact air/fuel ratio (hence, the new name you learned for it.)_


_

Thank you! I will totally go though those when I'm not drunk. So 4 wire can only sense "close" to stoich, not anything outside of a narrow range (say 14-15]? I always wondered how a wideband was different.

I learned that the sensor may not have been bad (the before cat one), this is due to an exhaust leak after the cat. How does this affect the reading? exhaust exits too quickly?_


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## 557688 (Aug 21, 2010)

cityjohn said:


> Are there any regulations that REQUIRE seat belt buckles to be bright red-orange?


I've ridden in many vehicles which had black and silver *metal* seat belt buckles. 

I think it would be an almost impossible law to enforce, even if it were a law.


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## samc (Jan 15, 2002)

cityjohn said:


> Are there any regulations that REQUIRE seat belt buckles to be bright red-orange?


Why would you want seat belt buckles to be orange, so they are more visible to law enforcement?
I guess that would make sense for them to be spotted when not used but I don't think auto makers would want a loud flashy orange object in their car unless that's the style they were going for.


Take it from a person who's been in a head on collison, it just takes that one time to let a person know why seatbelts are important. Yes I do wear my seatbelt and that's why I'm alive today.


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## Late Apex (Jan 28, 2007)

If my car has a salvage title and I get hit by some old lady and my car ends up being totaled, will her insurance company pay close to the car's actual price or will they give me a lesser amount since it previously had a salvage title?


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

cityjohn said:


> Are there any regulations that REQUIRE seat belt buckles to be bright red-orange?





samc said:


> Why would you want seat belt buckles to be orange, so they are more visible to law enforcement?
> I guess that would make sense for them to be spotted when not used but I don't think auto makers would want a loud flashy orange object in their car unless that's the style they were going for.


I think cityjohn is referring to the release button, not the buckle or the belt itself.
And no, I'm not sure if there's a regulation, but I do think it's a fine idea. Button should be easy to find for all passengers, whether they're familiar with the car or not.
If it is regulated, I bet it's only on the manufacturing end. Meaning, if you painted yours black, I doubt anyone would bother you about it.


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

VDub2625 said:


> I learned that the sensor may not have been bad (the before cat one), this is due to an exhaust leak after the cat. How does this affect the reading? exhaust exits too quickly?


 Not quite.
Remember that the exhaust gasses on a piston engine aren't a continuous flow - rather, it's a series of pulses.
Said pulses are at higher-than-atmospheric pressure (of course - it's hot gas!) And, there's a low-pressure area right behind each pulse, too. Since that's _below_ atmospheric pressure, it can (and will) pull outside air into the exhaust.
Even though the leak was _after_ the O2 sensor, it's still possible (especially if the leak is very close to the O2 sensor) for the 'extra' air to bounce back up the pipe, skewing the reading 'lean.'

And, it is possible for a post-cat leak to skew the pre-cat readings. It just does wierd things to the readings off of the monitor sensors (some of the O2 sensor diagnostics are pre/post-car plausibility calculations); it's also possible for the leak to alter exhaust pressures in such a way that it only skews that bank on the engine (again, creating a plausibility error, compared to the other bank.)


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Regarding snow tire tread compounds:
If they're supposed to be softer/more grippy in cold climates (as opposed to the hard plastic-like compounds of long-life all-seasons), do they have a similar durometer to sticky high-performance summers? If snows are "softer" why are they so easy to light up on dry pavement?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I think the compound of snows stays grippy even in freezing weather when most tires would be round rocks.


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

High clamp pressure plates, can anyone explain them to me?


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

VDub2625 said:


> I learned that the sensor may not have been bad (the before cat one), this is due to an exhaust leak after the cat. How does this affect the reading? exhaust exits too quickly?


 due to the pulsing nature of exhaust flow, outside air is sucked in through the leak. If the leak is in reasonable proximity to the sensor, the oxygen content will be higher, and cause a faulty reading.


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

71DubBugBug said:


> High clamp pressure plates, can anyone explain them to me?


What do you want to know, how they work or why they're rated at a higher torque capacity?


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

ravera said:


> What do you want to know, how they work or why they're rated at a higher torque capacity?


Both, i understand what a pressure plate does, but how does a high clamp one work different, and the ratings


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

Basically they work by increasing the force applied to the clutch disk. Whether it be a diaphragm type pressure plate or the older spring type pressure plate, this is basically done by putting a diaphragm of a higher spring tension or springs that are stronger on the pressure plate. Usually in the US the strength of the pressure plate is rated in lbs. I'm not sure if they're rated in metric across the pond or in canada, but in the US they're rated in lbs. 

Thus an 1800lb pressure plate would exert 1800ish lbs of force on the actual clutch disk. That means that if you turned the clutch and flywheel so they pointed straight up, it would be the equivalent force as if you had put an 1800lb weight on the pressure plate pressing against the flywheel. 

This improves your torque handling capacity by increasing the force required to break the static friction of the clutch disk. Since the total force of static friction is the coefficient of friction of the disk (mu) x the force applied on the disk, increasing the force that you apply to the disk will ultimately increase the force (torque in this instance which is force multiplied by a radial vector or the distance between the force applied and the point it's measured) that is required to overcome the static friction of the clutch and cause it to slip.


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## Late Apex (Jan 28, 2007)

Can someone answer my question? Just curious.


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## jettafan[atic] (Dec 2, 2008)

metagear89 said:


> If my car has a salvage title and I get hit by some old lady and my car ends up being totaled, will her insurance company pay close to the car's actual price or will they give me a lesser amount since it previously had a salvage title?


I could only assume that the insurance company would pay what the car would be worth with it's salvage title as that's how it would be registered.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

i keep seeing this bumperless Corolla (identical to the one pictured) and i was wondering what the little rubber flaps are for? i assume moisture control? They kind of flap around when driving.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

A.Wilder said:


> i keep seeing this bumperless Corolla (identical to the one pictured) and i was wondering what the little rubber flaps are for? i assume moisture control? They kind of flap around when driving.


They open when you slam the trunk, allowing the compressed air to escape.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

A.Wilder said:


> i keep seeing this bumperless Corolla (identical to the one pictured) and i was wondering what the little rubber flaps are for? i assume moisture control? They kind of flap around when driving.


For relieving pressure. That way you don't blow your eardrums out when you close the door, or when the HVAC is on, as well. My sister's first car was a festiva, and that thing was sealed up so tight, it was hard to close the doors without the windows cracked.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

monoaural said:


> For relieving pressure. That way you don't blow your eardrums out when you close the door, or when the HVAC is on, as well. My sister's first car was a festiva, and that thing was sealed up so tight, it was hard to close the doors without the windows cracked.


Beetles were _seriously_ famous for that. Even though Aunt Bea is pushing 50 years old with original weatherstripping (most needs to be replaced!) it's still _considerably_ easier to close the door with a vent wing or window cracked open. If you don't, the rear quarter windows (pop outs) tend to unlatch and open momentarily. :laugh:


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

metagear89 said:


> If my car has a salvage title and I get hit by some old lady and my car ends up being totaled, will her insurance company pay close to the car's actual price or will they give me a lesser amount since it previously had a salvage title?


How would they know unless you tell them?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I believe the technical term for those flaps is positive flow ventilation or something like that. Air pulled in by the fan is only allowed to escape at the rear, causing the whole car body to be vented. But they won't let air/water/crap in the wrong way 

Here's an image from a Passat brochure explaining a little more: (top two left images)
http://www.a2resource.com/brochures/1990/passat/source/10.jpg

I wonder how the Beetle relieved fan pressure? Open window? If you don't have a window open, would the fan motor burn out?


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

cool, thanks for the diagram vdub :thumbup:


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## JeffIsLax (Mar 26, 2005)

barry2952 said:


> How would they know unless you tell them?


They will find out immediately after they look up the VIN.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Is it SOP for an insurance adjuster to look up a VON of a car? Why would they care?


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

barry2952 said:


> How would they know unless you tell them?





barry2952 said:


> Is it SOP for an insurance adjuster to look up a VON of a car? Why would they care?


i don't know about where you live, barry, but down here, salvage titles are marked as such. 

and when you're trying to ensure the car, they'll insure it as such, too.

so when you claim the insurance after an accident, they'll pay out accordingly.

there's no escaping how the car is titled once the VIN is involved.

i would imagine the same occurs regardless of whether it's your insurance or the other person's.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Could an Atkinson cycle DI engine fix the carbon problem that afflicts the intake valves of DI cars?


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## marcello$$ (Apr 4, 2011)

Sometimes my automatic 98 civic will rev to 4000 to shift. When driving stick i was always told to shift around 2.500 and 3000. Is it bad that my car does this?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

marcello$$ said:


> Sometimes my automatic 98 civic will rev to 4000 to shift. When driving stick i was always told to shift around 2.500 and 3000. Is it bad that my car does this?


If you're asking for more power, it will shift higher. No, it's not bad for the car. If you HAD to shift at 3k, then the redline would be there 

It's a good guide to shift at those speeds, but sometimes you need more power or acceleration, so nothing wrong with that. If you do a WOT start, it'll shift at redline (typically 6-7,000), and that's not bad either (as long as you don't do it always).


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## DubNMiatafan (Feb 13, 2009)

marcello$$ said:


> Sometimes my automatic 98 civic will rev to 4000 to shift. When driving stick i was always told to shift around 2.500 and 3000. Is it bad that my car does this?


That's most likely because your automatic is going out. My dad's '99 does this and Honda autos are notorious for being giant piles of crap.


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## d_98se (Jun 19, 2007)

*High Power Rear wheel drive vehicles and snap oversteer.*

Rear wheel drive vehicles and snap oversteer.

Some of us have seen those two turkeys drag racing on thanksgiving day in TX. For those that haven't seen it here it is.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=kzlg3oQMze4

Another on the highway.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HOVX_617jME

And a burnout gone wrong.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LyB4lejOtgA

The last video is what am most interested in. Burnout starts and the rear swings to the right, driver cuts the wheels right to catch it and all of a sudden it snaps to the left and bites the wall.

You'll also notice the same thing with the other videos..its the second opposite swing that becomes real expensive.

Short of full time traction control is there any chance to catch one of these monsters on its second swing? Are the drivers slow in counter-steering? Would staying on the gas have helped?


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

DubNMiatafan said:


> That's most likely because your automatic is going out. My dad's '99 does this and Honda autos are notorious for being giant piles of crap.


Only the ones mated to late 90's V6's. The I4 manuals are pretty stout. But all parts break down with time.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

d_98se said:


> Rear wheel drive vehicles and snap oversteer.


I'm not sure how to counter-act it, but it would seem that if the rear is sliding one way, and you steer that way, the rear is now 'steered" the opposite way, in comparison to the front wheels (and those are the only 4 points that touch the ground so they're all that matter). So, the rear is going to "drive around" the front in the opposite direction. It would seem that stopping the power would fix it, but if you're already sliding sideways, momentum will take over. f you're not quick enough to steer the other way, when the tires grab, it'll push the car that way.


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## helement2003 (Aug 3, 2004)

VDub2625 said:


> I'm not sure how to counter-act it, but it would seem that if the rear is sliding one way, and you steer that way, the rear is now 'steered" the opposite way, in comparison to the front wheels (and those are the only 4 points that touch the ground so they're all that matter). So, the rear is going to "drive around" the front in the opposite direction. It would seem that stopping the power would fix it, but if you're already sliding sideways, momentum will take over. f you're not quick enough to steer the other way, when the tires grab, it'll push the car that way.


In regards to counter-acting snap oversteer in the S2000, the solution is more throttle. Keep in it and she stays more controlled. Let off and it'll pendulum all over the place and you'll completely lose control.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

d_98se said:


> The last video is what am most interested in. Burnout starts and the rear swings to the right, driver cuts the wheels right to catch it *and all of a sudden it snaps to the left* and bites the wall.
> 
> You'll also notice the same thing with the other videos..its the second opposite swing that becomes real expensive.
> 
> Short of full time traction control is there any chance to catch one of these monsters on its second swing? Are the drivers slow in counter-steering? Would staying on the gas have helped?


What we're not seeing in the videos is the driver lifting the throttle. Rear steps out, driver counter-steers, gets scared and lifts the throttle


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

What's the deal with balance shafts? I hear that all 4 cylinders require them but I see a lot without them. Are they built into the crank? Is this what they mean by "balanced" designs, they don't have a weighted crank?


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## helement2003 (Aug 3, 2004)

VDub2625 said:


> What's the deal with balance shafts? I hear that all 4 cylinders require them but I see a lot without them. Are they built into the crank? Is this what they mean by "balanced" designs, they don't have a weighted crank?


Balance shafts provide perceived smoothness by removing the vibration on an inline 4 engine (and other engines that use them). They are however, not required. The S2000 does not have them, and is noticeably "shaky" at idle.

An example:









They do nothing but counteract the vibration forces, essentially by the correct timing of spinning weights.

A V6 (GM 3800) w/ central balance shaft:









I've always been under the impression (correct me if wrong) that an engine without balance shafts will be a bit more free revving, as well.


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## ttvick (Aug 15, 2007)

I am getting a motorcycle in the first quarter of next year, and I'll be putting a helmet on my Christmas list... I like the helmet below, but I want to make sure that whatever I get will meet the requirements for track day driving as well. 

Question is... Would the Nolan N43 be acceptable for (automobile) track use? It is apparently DOT approved, but I think it is not SNELL approved because it is modular. It does, however, meet the ECE 22.05 Motorcycle Helmet Standard.

Anybody have a definite answer?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002YT1HDE/ref=noref?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&psc=1


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

*Question*: What would be the more reliable engine: a turbo diesel that revs to 5500 or a high revving NA motor (like Hondas) that rev to 8500-9000 assuming you ran each for 24/7 at their redline for whatever period until they broke (stopping regularly to add/change oil ONLY).


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

ttvick said:


> I am getting a motorcycle in the first quarter of next year, and I'll be putting a helmet on my Christmas list... I like the helmet below, but I want to make sure that whatever I get will meet the requirements for track day driving as well.
> 
> Question is... Would the Nolan N43 be acceptable for (automobile) track use? It is apparently DOT approved, but I think it is not SNELL approved because it is modular. It does, however, meet the ECE 22.05 Motorcycle Helmet Standard.
> 
> ...


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## ttvick (Aug 15, 2007)

monoaural said:


> Snell has a different rating for cars. Snell SA. Same as a reg snell, but also rated for roll bar impacts and fire. I think it depends on the track/governing body on what rating you need.
> My Snell SA helmet is also DOT approved, and I use it on my bike, but it isnt ideal.


Is there a certain class of helmet that is ideal for both Motorcycle and SA use? I am open to getting a full-face helmet, but I really like the one above and if it will be safe and accepted for both uses I will probably get it. If it won't, I need to find something that will.


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

ttvick said:


> Is there a certain class of helmet that is ideal for both Motorcycle and SA use? I am open to getting a full-face helmet, but I really like the one above and if it will be safe and accepted for both uses I will probably get it. If it won't, I need to find something that will.


I don't think so. However, any SNELL helmet CAN be used for motorcycles. But not vice versa (something with design I think. My rationale, may or may not be correct, is that motorcycle helmets are just to protect from "small" impacts and designed for not as cumbersome and more aerodynamic. In doing so, they may sacrifice some safety that is required by SNELL).


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## ttvick (Aug 15, 2007)

C4 A6 said:


> I don't think so. However, any SNELL helmet CAN be used for motorcycles. But not vice versa (something with design I think. My rationale, may or may not be correct, is that motorcycle helmets are just to protect from "small" impacts and designed for not as cumbersome and more aerodynamic. In doing so, they may sacrifice some safety that is required by SNELL).


Forgive my ignorance... Is a SNELL approved helmet required for most "track day" type events? (Not wheel-to-wheel racing, if that makes a difference.)


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

ttvick said:


> Forgive my ignorance... Is a SNELL approved helmet required for most "track day" type events? (Not wheel-to-wheel racing, if that makes a difference.)


Yes. All track day events. They (the group running the event) should have some for you to rent if you don't have one yourself.


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## ttvick (Aug 15, 2007)

C4 A6 said:


> Yes. All track day events. They (the group running the event) should have some for you to rent if you don't have one yourself.


Found this Zeus ZS-3000, which apparently is the world's first SNELL approved modular helmet, and is surprisingly affordable. Sounds like a winner.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

ttvick said:


> Is there a certain class of helmet that is ideal for both Motorcycle and SA use? I am open to getting a full-face helmet, but I really like the one above and if it will be safe and accepted for both uses I will probably get it. If it won't, I need to find something that will.


I have a Fulmer FM-A1 (IIRC), its vents aren't close-able, and it is not very aerodynamic. I got it for very cheap, so I am gonna live with it until I can't anymore.


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

helement2003 said:


> Balance shafts provide perceived smoothness by removing the vibration on an inline 4 engine (and other engines that use them). They are however, not required. The S2000 does not have them, and is noticeably "shaky" at idle.


I'll quote this since it's on the last page an I'm lazy...
You're correct. However Inline 4's use them for different purposes than say a 90 degree V6. Inline 4's have two sets of piston's going up and two sets going down in unison, provided it's not a "big bang" type engine (WSBK, Newer R1's, etc basically use a cross plane crank) which one would think is easy to balance. However if you do the math, you'll find that a piston at the top of stroke is moving significantly faster and thus its acceleration and deceleration from TDC is much greater than that of the pistons as they approach BDC. If you've got a block around with the head off, slowly rotate the pistons through a cycle, you'll notice that when the crank throw is halfway between bdc and tdc the piston might only be 1/3 the way up the bore give or take. The other 2/3rds is accomplished on the second half of the stroke. That's a pretty significant difference (and also a talking point for engineers in R/S ratio since it's best to try to put the time when the piston is at its peak velocity to the time when the gas is expanding the most quickly) and causes what's known as a 'secondary' imbalance. Because of this, balance shafts are required and must spin at twice crankshaft speed to counteract this imbalance. 

To discuss V engines and the posed question on what an engine that's "balanced" does, I'll first define what someone means when they say an engine is 'balanced'. All modern engines to the best of my knowledge except for some boxer engines, have counterweights. (the scooby WRC engines I believe didn't, but the crank pins served as weights since they're opposed) The majority (All, I believe any more) of inline 4 and inline 6 cylinder engines are balanced to what's known as "Zero balance" which means the counterweights on the crankshaft are only designed to counteract the vibration created by the fact that the crank pin is offset from the axis in which the crankshaft rotates. The vibration introduced by the rods or the pistons is designed to be dampened by the counteracting forces of other rods/pistons in the system. This is why you can swap rods and pistons in an inline 4/inline 6 and as a result, as long as the rods/pistons are within the same ballpark of one another, the engine will still run smoothly. 

V engines, specifically cross plane V8's and V6's Are balanced, I believe, in a Pair system, where each rod acts as part of the balance. This is why they talk about 'bobweights' and this should be considered when having the crank re-balanced for new rods/pistons. Without getting into the details, 90 degree engines with split crank pins cannot balance as well and still introduce a rocking motion into the engine from the fact that each bank maintains an odd number of cylinders. An Audi I5 also has this dynamic imbalance from an odd number of cylinders. Thus the balance shafts in a 90 degree v6 are to balance the rocking and the slight remaining imbalance left from separating the coupled pistons. 60 degree v6's are often offset by 60 degrees on the shaft with a 'flying arm' (weighted area between each throw that shares a common pair of journals) so that heavy weighting can generally reduce the imbalance to the point where the rest can be absorbed. 

Cross plane v8's benefit from the fact that the shared crank pins mean that they can cancel primary and secondary imbalance using heavy counterweights. Flat plane engines (ferrari, esprit, etc.) are 'zero' balanced and as such aim to only balance each bank individually. These engines use extremely short strokes because the alternating of firing and the combining of the two banks causes the engine to vibrate laterally. Flat plane engines do not require the heavy counterweights that the cross plane engines do, and this is why they are able to rev more freely. On the other hand of course, they cannot reach the displacement of cross plane engines because a large stroke will lead to vibrations that will literally shake the engine apart. 

To this, the second part of the question, yes non counter-balanced engines are perceived to rev more freely than identical counterbalanced engines. This is because there is more rotating mass within the system and as such, either the amount of energy added to the system must increase to keep the acceleration of the system the same, or the acceleration of the system will decrease for the same amount of energy applied. 
The same applies to all other engine designs but getting into each one would take up too much space. 


C4 A6 said:


> *Question*: What would be the more reliable engine: a turbo diesel that revs to 5500 or a high revving NA motor (like Hondas) that rev to 8500-9000 assuming you ran each for 24/7 at their redline for whatever period until they broke (stopping regularly to add/change oil ONLY).


That's a daftly ambiguous question which depends on the engine and the load applied. You cant just say all diesels last longer than higher revving engines because x, or vise versa. If you're trying to win an argument to say a high revving engine is more reliable than a diesel, you're not going to get it from me. 


However, a substantial amount of it is based on the wear on the rings/cylinders due to the movement of the piston in the cylinder as well as the movement of the valves in the guides, etc. While a higher revving engine might not necessarily have a higher piston speed, it will still have to stop at each end the same amount of times, which wears at a similar rate at the tops and bottoms of the cylinder, and this (IMO) leads to wear faster than the piston traveling up and down in the bore. Given the same specifications, More rpm's = more movement and movement = wear. However, load is also a major factor as well as mean cylinder pressure, which effects the amount of wear as well. Food for thought: large stationary engines running lower pressures last for how long? At the same time how many 600cc bikes do you see with 300k on them? There's a significant number of variables that go into describing how well a system wears from metallurgy all the way up to what environment it's put in. You can address each individually on a per-engine basis, and you could, if you dedicated the time to it, come up with a profile with all the calculations for an individual engine. However I cant really say that the reliability of an engine can be calculated solely on what RPM it's run at.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

ttvick said:


> Is there a certain class of helmet that is ideal for both Motorcycle and SA use? I am open to getting a full-face helmet, but I really like the one above and if it will be safe and accepted for both uses I will probably get it. If it won't, I need to find something that will.


The DOT ratings are voluntary. DOT sets some standards, and while they do random testing, it's ultimately up to the company to decide if they've met the standards. Just because a helmet says DOT on the back does not mean it's been confirmed to meet the DOT standards. Not very reassuring. 

The SNELL Foundation independently tests every model that carries one of their ratings. M (motorcycle) ratings are usually fine for SCCA autocross events. SA ratings are specific to Automotive Sports, and IIRC, typically have higher tolerances for multiple impacts, as well as increased fire retardation. 

SNELL also has specific requirements for each application. They even have H (horse) and B (bicycle) and S (skiing) rating standards. 

Check with the clubs you want to run with to see what their minimum approved helmet ratings are. You may be able to use DOT only, but SCCA events require at least an M2005 rating last time I checked (which was last spring, when I bought my G-Force Eliminator helmet).


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## autoxmack (Dec 2, 2007)

MrMook said:


> The SNELL Foundation independently tests every model that carries one of their ratings. M (motorcycle) ratings are usually fine for SCCA autocross events. SA ratings are specific to Automotive Sports, and IIRC, typically have higher tolerances for multiple impacts, as well as increased fire retardation.


SNELL M is good for SCCA autocrossing, but many track days require an SA rating. The SA has a few more testing requirements for impact with a roll cage in a race vehicle. I wasn't aware of additional fire protection, but that could be possible.


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## ph03n1x (Feb 22, 2011)

We all know the names for variable valve timing in Japanese cars: MIVEC from Mitsubishi, VTEC from Honda, and VVT/VVTL-I from Toyota. Do Euro car makers make acronyms like that or is it just straight up variable valve timing?


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## sweatyworker (May 4, 2005)

ph03n1x said:


> We all know the names for variable valve timing in Japanese cars: MIVEC from Mitsubishi, VTEC from Honda, and VVT/VVTL-I from Toyota. Do Euro car makers make acronyms like that or is it just straight up variable valve timing?


BMW has VANOS.


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

ph03n1x said:


> We all know the names for variable valve timing in Japanese cars: MIVEC from Mitsubishi, VTEC from Honda, and VVT/VVTL-I from Toyota. Do Euro car makers make acronyms like that or is it just straight up variable valve timing?


In addition to the post above, it's different for each company as well. As far as I know, VTEC is the only one that uses two different cam profiles. VVT from Toyota is just electronic control of the duration of the valves (VVTL-i is their version of VTEC). Not sure about MIVEC but I think it's your standard VVT.

Ferrari uses a form of VVT as well; they use a cone shaped cam that actually slides as RPMS get higher or something like that.


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

Multiple companies use cams with different lobes.

Off the top of my head: 
VVTL-i from Toyota uses two different lobes:









Subaru's H6's use a multi-lobe setup on their cam-on-bucket setup (AVLS) which I find interesting:








I believe the above setup to be roughly the same in principle to VarioCam Plus from Porsche or CPS from Volvo

The nissan NEO-VVL engines run cams that are damn near identical to the older VTEC setup (pre-i-VTEC)









But yes, most just have an electro-hydraulic actuator on the front of the cam that rotates it in reference to the drive wheel. I don't know the names for all of them, and I'm not even sure if VWag or MBZ have a marketing slang for their VVTs.

FWIW, BMW's Valvetronic is significantly more than just good ol multi-valve lift and phasing. Enough so that it's used to throttle the engine as well:





Edit: Looks like Audi is going to this setup in the 1.8TFSI engines, no Idea if it's going to have some cool alphabet name:


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## six_banger (Jul 3, 2011)

I have a naturally aspirated engine with forced induction. Do you think it is safe to add a CAI?


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

six_banger said:


> I have a naturally aspirated engine with forced induction. Do you think it is safe to add a CAI?


I've got a troll here, what do?


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## ph03n1x (Feb 22, 2011)

C4 A6 said:


> I've got a troll here, what do?


Well I have a front wheel drive S2000. Is it safe to put 22 inch RIMS on it? :laugh:


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

I think some people fail to get the concept of this thread. Yes, we all understand that you're trying to be funny.


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## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

If the Earth was flat, would there still be a horizon?


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

Is there a way to test if a new shock/strut is just a bad unit? Same question for springs. Trying to diagnose why steering shake violent enough for the whole nose of the car to shake and I am tired of replacing part after part after part all to no avail. So far, replaced outer tie rods, inner tie rods, set of tires, re-balanced tire/wheel combo, all 4 corners' spring/strut combos, and front lower balljoints. Only control arm bushings and wheel bearings left.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Axles? It could be helpful to jack up the car and run it at speed with the wheels in the air, see what kind of results you get.


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

I hadn't even thought of axles as a possible culprit. What kind of things am I looking for when spinning the wheels in mid-air? I definitely don't want to pay for a set of axles if I don't have to. I know the boots aren't torn but how I can tell if the internals are damaged? Also, if the car doesn't have limited-slip, how can I tell which axle is bad? Will the wheel/s spin in a figure-8 like a bicycle wheel does when it or the spokes get damaged?


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## six_banger (Jul 3, 2011)

C4 A6 said:


> I've got a troll here, what do?


rofl you mad again bro


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

Here's a good one... And it confused the **** out of me.

On my 1999.5 F350 7.3L 4x4 the rear calipers are reversed.

The driver side caliper is on the front of the rotor, the passenger side is on the rear... WHY?

I assume it has an advantage, but I'd like to know what it is.


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## rexxmann (Sep 4, 2002)

efrie said:


> Here's a good one... And it confused the **** out of me.
> 
> On my 1999.5 F350 7.3L 4x4 the rear calipers are reversed.
> 
> ...


Here's a shot in the dark....to reduce cost, Ford has only one bracket for the rear calipers so to have it fit properly it has to be flipped on the opposite side.


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

On the driver side though they went through the process of developing a shield that completely blocks the caliper from any debris. 

Perhaps it has to do with the limited slip differential? Or....

Yeah, I have no idea.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Assle said:


> Will the wheel/s spin in a figure-8 like a bicycle wheel does when it or the spokes get damaged?


Dude...what?


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

Also, this is going to sound dumb, but how to run-flat tires work?

So I can run over something that would normally puncture the tire, but the pressure stays the same? How does the car ride?

I assume there is some sort of chemical in there that instantly inflates the tire when its in need, but how is the traction affected? Can you keep driving for the life of the tire or does it eventually need to be replaced?


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## 92skirmishgti (Sep 5, 2005)

No, they have stiffer side walls. The tire will lose air pressure but with the stiff side wall you can drive about 40 miles to get it replaced. You cannot drive indefinitely on a flat run flat. They are also uncomfortable and expensive!


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

Well I knew they were expensive, but always wondered why a lot of the manufacturers were going with them these days.

So basically, if you have a flat, you have a flat, but instead of having to pull over you've got 30 extra minutes.

Not worth the price.


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## 92skirmishgti (Sep 5, 2005)

They also do it to save space, with run flats you don't need to accommodate a spare, but some manufactures do offer a spare as a option.


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

MrMook said:


> Dude...what?


Trying to get an idea of what I would be looking for to tell if the axles are at fault. With the wheels spinning, are they going to wobble like bike wheels do?


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## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

It won't be nearly as obvious as a bent bicycle wheel, but yeah, if it's wobbling something like that you've got issues. Not necessarily the axle, but certainly something.

Wheel bearings are usually associated with a roaring noise, and if you jack up the car and try to move the wheel with one hand at noon and one at 6, you'll feel play/hear a clunk. If no movement there, try with hands at 3 and 9 - implies tie rod ends/steering rack play. In the 3-and-9 case, though, it's easier to make a false diagnosis since the steering moves in that plane anyway - don't go replacing the steering rack based solely on my advice 

If you've been driving it this long with the issue while fixing all that other stuff, I doubt it's a wheel bearing. Should have failed spectacularly by now, or at least be making a ton of noise.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

efrie said:


> Here's a good one... And it confused the **** out of me.
> 
> On my 1999.5 F350 7.3L 4x4 the rear calipers are reversed.
> 
> ...


I noticed the other day (and on every truck since then) the passenger side strut is bracketed in front of the axle, and the driver side is bracketed in the rear. i assume they just make one style axle end (no L/R), and then bolt/weld it to the diff case.


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

VDub2625 said:


> I noticed the other day (and on every truck since then) the passenger side strut is bracketed in front of the axle, and the driver side is bracketed in the rear. i assume they just make one style axle end (no L/R), and then bolt/weld it to the diff case.


Nah, they're just brackets that you can weld on. They're uni-directional in most cases. Realistically it helps to stabilize the axle and counteract axle wrap.

The brake bracket isn't the same, the caliper is. You gotta keep the bleed screw on top and if the pads are directional or has a multi piston caliper, they need to stay the same as well. Got a caliper? Hold it up, now switch it to the opposite side as if it's going on the other wheel, the bleed screw has to go up...


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Well now, why not make a caliper with two holes, one on each end, that both fit a bleed screw and a hose? Problem solved 

Axle wrap? What would that be? I thought maybe it helped stabilize, but wouldn't the leaf springs basically hold the axle along the X axis pretty stable?


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

Not sure how really to describe axle wrap. 

It's when the axle itself basically tries to rotate within the car. I think the best way to describe it is trying to wrap spaghetti around your fork? The spaghetti is the leaf spring/ 2/3/4/ladder bar while the fork is the live axle. Causes all sorts of fun things, when it springs back it can lead to axle hop, and can cause driveshaft failure since the U-joint can see some pretty extreme angles.

Here's a video, nothing says axle wrap better than r-tards in bro-dozers with giant ol' spring blocks.





From my limited understanding, with two shocks facing the same direction, the axle can just pivot on the shocks and the axle can wrap without even eliciting some dampening from the shocks. With them in a V, one forward one backwards, axle wrap will cause at least one shock to be compressed providing some dampening and stability. FWIW, if you ever see the old muscle cars with traction bars, this was to help them prevent axle wrap as well.


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

I ain't even mad.


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## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

Tell me if this has happened to you.

"Oh crap, I am out of washer fluid."
-Pulls into some establishment that sells washer fluid.
-Pops hood to check if really out of washer fluid. Yes, it is dryer than a Pentecostal phalanx at an open bar event. 
"Oh look, generic blue washer fluid is now $1.99, and the good stuff is 3 bucks. Why not just sell me something smaller than a gallon? Awesome."
-Buys a gallon of generic blue stuff, and two boxes of stick on port holes.
"Oh look, they have a special on huge wings. Maybe next week after I get my check."
-Goes outside, opens bottle...
"Damn... why don't they add something to make it easier to get this metallic plastic seal off.."
-And pours bottle into empty washer fluid reservoir.
*"Well crap. Now I have 1/4 of a bottle of washer fluid left. I guess I will wedge it somewhere in the car. But when I am out of fluid again, I will want more than just 1/4 of a bottle. So then I will have 1/2 of a bottle after buying another with this 1/4 gallon in the reservoir."*

Why not sell washer fluid in smaller containers?


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## DasCC (Feb 24, 2009)

BRealistic said:


> Tell me if this has happened to you.
> 
> "Oh crap, I am out of washer fluid."
> -Pulls into some establishment that sells washer fluid.
> ...


Lol!!! So true. I always have partial jugs of washer fluid floating around and the strength of the seals you would think it was a medicine container!


Typos courtesy of iPhone 4 using Tapatalk


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## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

I actually thought of that yesterday. Light comes on, car tells me "fill washer fluid!" with the exclamation point and everything. So, I get a jug and pour it all in there, right to the top. 1/20th a of a bottle left. 


FFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU

I guess it's designed to take the whole gallon but you have to get it completely dry first :facepalm:. 

I just put it in the wife's car :laugh:


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## stascom (Sep 12, 2009)

What would be cheaper in the long run:

- Coast in gear, downshift when possible. Minimizes braking to save fuel and pads, wears clutch.

- Coast in neutral, use brakes more. Uses more gas, wears pads.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

stascom said:


> What would be cheaper in the long run:
> 
> - Coast in gear, downshift when possible. Minimizes braking to save fuel and pads, wears clutch.
> 
> - Coast in neutral, use brakes more. Uses more gas, wears pads.


It does not wear the clutch if you do it right.


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## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

BRealistic said:


> Tell me if this has happened to you.


That is because for some reason, washer fluid receptacles are standardised on 3 litres, and washer fluid is sold in gallon jugs because gallon jugs are the cheapest form of plasticware known to man. I typically had four or five of those left-over jugs in the garage at any time in MI. FWIW, the Rain-X stuff is liquid gold. I wish I could get it over here.

Over here, they sell washer fluid as a concentrate in one litre bottles and you have to add your own water and mix it up before you put it in. I usually add one litre of water and the bottle of fluid, drive around for a day, then add the second litre of water. Seems to work.


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## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

stascom said:


> What would be cheaper in the long run:


Depends on how you use your clutch. 

I got seriously talked to about my clutch habits by my driving instructor over here. I had to spend an entire session with the trailer working on downshifting to a halt and then rolling up to stop signs in first gear and timing my entries into traffic without touching the clutch. The minutiae that is covered in driver training over here is mind-boggling. I am, however, a better driver for it all.


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## feels_road (Jan 27, 2005)

atomicalex said:


> I got seriously talked to about my clutch habits by my driving instructor over here.


Yeah, I was wondering about that, when, in the other thread, you suggested that playing with the clutch to get going at an incline was the superior method over the hand brake, only to be mastered further down the road...  :beer:


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## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

It actually wasn't over sitting on hills. I had some other issues. :facepalm: It's a good point, though. One of the harder things to learn in driving stick is the timing of the brake release, clutch release, and throttle application. Those who are really good with it do not need the handbrake to get going up a hill, their feet can move fast enough and they have the timing down. I haven't used the handbrake on a hill since we lived in Philly. It's purely a matter of practice and confidence in your technique.

But, um, yeah.. there were some unintended English lessons there..... :sly:


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## Fisherson (Dec 22, 2008)

Are there real benefits of using ceramic coated headers over stainless steel headers?

It seems to me that ceramic ones don't last as long but I don't know why.

Does it make a big difference to use them? Would they then be considered a wear item because they apparently break often?


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## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

Fisherson said:


> Are there real benefits of using ceramic coated headers over stainless steel headers?
> 
> It seems to me that ceramic ones don't last as long but I don't know why.
> 
> Does it make a big difference to use them? Would they then be considered a wear item because they apparently break often?


They just keep heat in better, so if meltable things are around the headers, they will stay cooler.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

atomicalex said:


> But, um, yeah.. there were some unintended English lessons there..... :sly:


I lol'd. Errrrr, l'd ol?


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## feels_road (Jan 27, 2005)

atomicalex said:


> It's a good point, though. One of the harder things to learn in driving stick is the timing of the brake release, clutch release, and throttle application. Those who are really good with it do not need the handbrake to get going up a hill, their feet can move fast enough and they have the timing down. I haven't used the handbrake on a hill since we lived in Philly. It's purely a matter of practice and confidence in your technique.


I think it's even getting more difficult with many newer cars that have some type of brake-override (the safety thing that doesn't allow you to give much gas while you are on the brake pedal and a short moment thereafter). It means that you need to release the brake an additional fraction of a second before you get on the gas - so you have to act even faster before the car starts rolling. In my Golf, I need to rev up a bit first so the ECU knows I am serious, then release the clutch pedal and step on the go-pedal at the same time. Usually resulting in some front tire spin, especially when the road is wet and the hill is steep (like Marin with its several stop signs)... the new TDIs are easy to stall, otherwise.


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## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

feels_road said:


> the new TDIs are easy to stall, otherwise.


The world is ending, apparently. The best part of TDIs is how doggone difficult they have historically been to stall.


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## feels_road (Jan 27, 2005)

atomicalex said:


> The world is ending, apparently. The best part of TDIs is how doggone difficult they have historically been to stall.


Injectors shut off pretty much without warning - just something to get used to - although I wouldn't mind drowning our shared sorrows at a nice Sushi place, _if_ our world paths ever approach the 100 mile/ 1/2 day threshold generally considered manageable - unless you happen to test an R8, or equivalent...


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## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

feels_road said:


> although I wouldn't mind drowning our shared sorrows at a nice Sushi place, _if_...


In, and I'll see about the R8. Now to figure out how to justify a trip to Baypoint for work.. Damn travel ban....


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## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

atomicalex said:


> The world is ending, apparently. The best part of TDIs is how doggone difficult they have historically been to stall.





feels_road said:


> Injectors shut off pretty much without warning - just something to get used to


I believe the newer TDI's have an ECU cuttoff that shuts the car off if you let it lug below a specific engine speed (800 RPM?).


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## feels_road (Jan 27, 2005)

atomicalex said:


> In, and I'll see about the R8. Now to figure out how to justify a trip to Baypoint for work.. Damn travel ban....


Baypoint is kind of overshoot'n it a bit, although in the right direction.  Yeah, traveling is getting harder to justify. I mean, I like Skype etc. and all, but sometimes you, uhm, have relatives you'd like to visit.



Smigelski said:


> I believe the newer TDI's have an ECU cuttoff that shuts the car off if you let it lug below a specific engine speed (800 RPM?).


With no mercy nor advance notice.  It's like The Reader cut-off. One day you're in, the other day... not so much (referring to the girls after reading duty).


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## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

feels_road said:


> Baypoint is kind of overshoot'n it a bit, although in the right direction.


I have Irvine and Baypoint. Not so much to choose from... Next closest is Scottsdale. Blech. Although, I could go visit Paul... :screwy:


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## biggs88 (Mar 6, 2011)

atomicalex said:


> It actually wasn't over sitting on hills. I had some other issues. :facepalm: It's a good point, though. One of the harder things to learn in driving stick is the timing of the brake release, clutch release, and throttle application. Those who are really good with it do not need the handbrake to get going up a hill, their feet can move fast enough and they have the timing down. I haven't used the handbrake on a hill since we lived in Philly. It's purely a matter of practice and confidence in your technique.
> 
> But, um, yeah.. there were some unintended English lessons there..... :sly:


Your right, its just a matter of practice. Once you know your "catch" point on the clutch pedal, your set.

I can be on a hill, let out the clutch just enough and totally let go of the brakes and be held still just by the clutch being partially engaged. Once you know where the clutch catches, you know the "spot". Any less engagement than being at that spot can allow the car to roll back, any more engagement without giving the car gas can cause the engine to lug and eventually to stall. 

When im on a hill, I will let the clutch pedal out just enough to hold the car still before taking my foot off the brake and applying pressure on the gas pedal to then take off.

Doing it takes less than a second.


----------



## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

Why don't cars have coolant filters?


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

cityjohn said:


> Why don't cars have coolant filters?


it's a closed system.

if there's bits of stuff that's getting into the cooling system, you've got a whole other set of serious problems.

it's not like the oil/lubrication system where you've basically got an environment where there's constant metal on metal action and the bits get worn down over time. the filter is there to keep those bits from getting ground back through the system and causing a blockage somewhere else.

the cooling system isn't exposed to that kind of environment, so no filter is needed.


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## turbinepowered (Mar 19, 2007)

cityjohn said:


> Why don't cars have coolant filters?





TwoLitreVW said:


> it's a closed system.
> 
> if there's bits of stuff that's getting into the cooling system, you've got a whole other set of serious problems.
> 
> ...


Commercial grade vehicles, like buses and over the road trucks, have coolant filters.


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## epbrown (Sep 14, 2007)

*dual cone synchros?*

Both the Fiat 500 and Mini Cooper boast about having dual cone synchros; what advantage do these offer?


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

turbinepowered said:


> *Commercial grade vehicles*, like buses and over the road trucks, have coolant filters.


yes they do.

and the reason is in bold.

those systems operate on a slightly larger scale, and also operate under far harsher conditions than most road cars do.

this means that the likelihood of rust, scale, and general gunk buildup is much higher than it would be on your daily driver. 

now, you can purchase a coolant filter for your car if you want it. they're readily available and splice right into the system. 

this type of thing is far more common on older cars where rust and scale buildup due to age is more likely. but it's not unheard of for debris to buildup in heater cores that don't get used very often on road cars.

however, it's not something you see very frequently because of the small scale and nature of the cooling system design in modern cars.


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## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

Well thanks, good to know about coolant filters :thumbup:


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## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

atomicalex said:


> That is because for some reason, washer fluid receptacles are standardised on 3 litres, and washer fluid is sold in gallon jugs because gallon jugs are the cheapest form of plasticware known to man. I typically had four or five of those left-over jugs in the garage at any time in MI. FWIW, the Rain-X stuff is liquid gold. I wish I could get it over here.
> 
> Over here, they sell washer fluid as a concentrate in one litre bottles and you have to add your own water and mix it up before you put it in. I usually add one litre of water and the bottle of fluid, drive around for a day, then add the second litre of water. Seems to work.


Instead of selling by the "does not exactly work ever" gallon jug, maybe they should add a washer fluid hose out by the fuel pumps so you can top off your washer fluid as you fill up.
Even give the fuel filler the options to add "washer fluid - $1.25 a gallon" when starting the pump.
Heck- add a coolant hose/option too.
I would use that.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

cityjohn said:


> Well thanks, good to know about coolant filters :thumbup:


google will get you a few more options, but here ya go:

http://autocoolantfilter.com/

http://www.tefba.com/


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

Someone asked in the "Drive" section of my local newspaper if switching from synthetic to regular oil is bad. The column writer said it's a misconception and shouldn't cause any harm but I'd like to hear from someone more knowledgeable. ( I.E. atomicalex  )


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## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

It's not harmful at all, especially in a car built after, oh, 1975. Modern seal technology has caught up.


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## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

mellbergVWfan said:


> Someone asked in the "Drive" section of my local newspaper if switching from synthetic to regular oil is bad. The column writer said it's a misconception and shouldn't cause any harm but I'd like to hear from someone more knowledgeable. ( I.E. atomicalex  )


Why would you do that unless the vehicle was burning/leaking oil badly (cost to top off)?


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

BRealistic said:


> Why would you do that unless the vehicle was burning/leaking oil badly (cost to top off)?


Well the situation that was described by the person who asked was that they took their car into a dealer or something and they had used only synthetic in the past and then the dealer put in dead dinosaur oil and after that they switched back. My question was kinda worded strange, switching from regular to synthetic what I meant.


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

What is the origin / reasoning behind rally stripes on steering wheels?










Obviously it denotes top dead center of the steering wheel, but how does that correlate to going in a straight line?


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## Nicefeet (Dec 29, 2009)

Does the word AHEAD have a measurement value in civil engineering? Is there a required distance these signs must be placed from what ever is AHEAD. 


For example you see a sign with PASSING LANE AHEAD on it.


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## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

mellbergVWfan said:


> Well the situation that was described by the person who asked was that they took their car into a dealer or something and they had used only synthetic in the past and then the dealer put in dead dinosaur oil and after that they switched back. My question was kinda worded strange, *switching from regular to synthetic what I meant*.


On older higher mile vehicles- going from regular to synthetic oil can lead to oil leaks.
It doesn't cause the leak, but the detergent properties of the synthetic will clean out existing leaks that were plugged up by debris.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Helps you keep an eye on which way the wheels are pointed without taking your eyes off the road.


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

VDub2625 said:


> Helps you keep an eye on which way the wheels are pointed without taking your eyes off the road.


That would make sense but I wonder how big of a difference it makes


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Oh, I have a really stupid question... let's say you have an engine that was neglected, and there's burnt up oil inside. Any way to save it without taking it apart? Seafoam? ATF? I have heard both can 'clean' the engine when ran for a short while, but to what degree? Italian tuneup with detergent in oil?


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

Whenever cranking the engine by hand, it's always advised to go clockwise, NEVER counter-clockwise. Why is this?


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## mike_A3 (Jun 30, 2008)

sjt1985 said:


> Whenever cranking the engine by hand, it's always advised to go clockwise, NEVER counter-clockwise. Why is this?



Bad advice. Its always good to go the same way the engine goes when it is running. Some go one way, others go the other way.

I'm sure there are many reasons, but one I can think of is cam timing. If your crank normally turns clockwise, the right side of your timing belt is in direct tension between the crank and the cam, there is zero chance the crank can turn without turning the cam.

If you turned this engine counter clockwise, you would pull down on the left side of the timing belt, and if the tensioner wasn't tight enough (and it isn't designed to be tight enough in this case) you could plausibly turn the crank 1/8 of a turn or so before there was full tension in the timing belt. An 1/8 turn could run pistons into valves, or valves into other valves.

I'm sure there are other reasons, but this is one.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

The timing belt slack picking up on the other side is a good argument, but it's still unlikely to cause problems, or be a whole 1/8 of a turn before the slack picks up. Timing belts can be several teeth off and cause no damage (depending on the engine, so it's unlikely some slack will damage it.

I believe the argument against cranking backwards from normal (as said, clockwise and counter-clockwise are moot as some engines crank differently), is that the oil pump will not be pushing any oil at all. At hand crank speeds, it might not be a bad thing. but it's also that the parts are worn in such a way that they've only turned one way, so you could cause minute scratches that could be trouble too.

When I do my timing belt I have no problem cranking back and forth a few degrees to get the engine lined up... sometimes I go a tad too far past the timing mark and don't feel like cranking all the way back around again.


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## Beanboy (Aug 27, 2004)

Noticed it on Hondas, but another thread jogged my memory.

What's the reason for the lip on the a-pillars of late model cars? Makes sweeping off snow a pain to have the windshield an inch or two from the a-pillar versus being flush. Also seems to add wind noise, at least on the Civic I drove on the highway.

Example:


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## Techun (Dec 27, 2006)

BRealistic said:


> Instead of selling by the "does not exactly work ever" gallon jug, maybe they should add a washer fluid hose out by the fuel pumps so you can top off your washer fluid as you fill up.
> Even give the fuel filler the options to add "washer fluid - $1.25 a gallon" when starting the pump.
> Heck- add a coolant hose/option too.
> I would use that.


or a line to quickly add oil as you fill up
RX8 drivers would use that :thumbup:


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Beanboy said:


> Noticed it on Hondas, but another thread jogged my memory.
> 
> What's the reason for the lip on the a-pillars of late model cars? Makes sweeping off snow a pain to have the windshield an inch or two from the a-pillar versus being flush. Also seems to add wind noise, at least on the Civic I drove on the highway.


I believe it's so water from the windshield is channeled up and onto the roof instead of sideways across the side windows (and potentially through your slightly cracked window).


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## c0mmon (Dec 30, 2003)

why are vw drivers so smug about their pos's


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

epbrown said:


> Both the Fiat 500 and Mini Cooper boast about having dual cone synchros; what advantage do these offer?


This question got ignored, so I'll take a swing at it.

Are you aware of how a 'standard' synchro's? If not they basically use either a soft metal (brass/bronze, etc) or a carbon covered ring that rides over a cone on the gear that's being selected and engages on the gear selector itself. The concept being that the synchronizer ring engages the cone on the gear and attempts to bring it up to the same speed as the mainshaft to which the the selecting ring (slider) is spinning at, so it doesn't grind. Well on the lower gears (1,2) the gear separation is much greater than that of the lower gears, and they're usually shifted at a higher RPM than the higher gears. This means that there's a larger speed difference that these synchronizers have to make up. The idea with a dual cone is that the second cone engages the inside mating surface of the synchro cone thus increasing the friction surface to allow more effective slowing (or speeding up) of the gears to make for a smoother shift. FWIW there's also triple cone synchros on some cars (t6060 in the corvette, viper, aston marton, etc. and a few others) have triple cone synchros which add a second floating friction cone to further add in the friction ability.


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## epbrown (Sep 14, 2007)

ravera said:


> This question got ignored, so I'll take a swing at it.
> 
> Are you aware of how a 'standard' synchro's? If not they basically use either a soft metal (brass/bronze, etc) or a carbon covered ring that rides over a cone on the gear that's being selected and engages on the gear selector itself. The concept being that the synchronizer ring engages the cone on the gear and attempts to bring it up to the same speed as the mainshaft to which the the selecting ring (slider) is spinning at, so it doesn't grind. Well on the lower gears (1,2) the gear separation is much greater than that of the higher gears, and they're usually shifted at a higher RPM than the higher gears. This means that there's a larger speed difference that these synchronizers have to make up. The idea with a dual cone is that the second cone engages the inside mating surface of the synchro cone thus increasing the friction surface to allow more effective slowing (or speeding up) of the gears to make for a smoother shift. FWIW there's also triple cone synchros on some cars (t6060 in the corvette, viper, aston marton, etc. and a few others) have triple cone synchros which add a second floating friction cone to further add in the friction ability.


Thanks - that makes sense. I'm betting higher-end cars have this more often and don't mention it, where as in econo-hatches like these pretend to be it's less common.


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*valve stem seals*

Had my heads rebuilt by a shop about 6 months ago. 
Sat in bags in garage. 

Getting ready to put them on the block, and notice that there is red assembly lube on every valve stem, past the seal. 

Is it normal for one that has been freshly assembled? 

Or am i going to have to replace all 32 of them?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Doesn't the whole seal get lubed before install?


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

VDub2625 said:


> Doesn't the whole seal get lubed before install?


Have never done it myselft, but im hoping yes


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## muffintop (Oct 15, 2009)

If my Miata has 50:50 weight distribution, why should I have to rotate my tires? 

Why does my miata have pressure built up in the gas tank when I take the cap off to fill up?


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## Diamond Dave (Mar 24, 2001)

Beanboy said:


> What's the reason for the lip on the a-pillars of late model cars?


1) styling queue
2) rain gutter




VDub2625 said:


> let's say you have an engine that was neglected, and there's burnt up oil inside. Any way to save it without taking it apart? Seafoam? ATF?


What does burnt up mean? 

I think Seafoam would do the trick. In general, ATF has "different" detergents than engine oil. They aren't necessarily _more_ effective at cleaning oil deposits from an engine.





MustacheGT said:


> What is the origin / reasoning behind rally stripes on steering wheels?


It's a racing queue along the same lines of how some racers align their gauges so that the driver knows at a glance that conditions are normal since all the needles point straight up; if one needle isn't pointing straight up, there's a problem. 

The mark on the steering wheel can orient the drive that either something is wrong with the steering or if they are sliding it can help show them where TDC is.


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## VR6 GLX Man (May 20, 2008)

This one just popped in my head, but it seems kinda obvious, but the pollen filter, how many people actually change that thing out?


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## VR6 GLX Man (May 20, 2008)

im aware some cars dont have that filter


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

muffintop said:


> If my Miata has 50:50 weight distribution, why should I have to rotate my tires?
> 
> Why does my miata have pressure built up in the gas tank when I take the cap off to fill up?


Turning tires wear faster, it's not based on weight.

That's likely vacuum, not pressure. The gas tank is sealed (to prevent evaporation of the gas, which is bad for the environment and your wallet), but temperature changes necessitate some venting. This is done via the carbon canister when the engine is off (any pressure built up is vented through carbon which absorbs the fumes), and when the engine is running, the intake manifold vacuum is applied to the gas tank to suck fumes into the engine to be burnt off. I don't think it's supposed to be a high vacuum though, so if you have a LOT of it built up, a valve might not be working correctly to vent off the vacuum/pressure.



Diamond Dave said:


> What does burnt up mean?
> 
> I think Seafoam would do the trick. In general, ATF has "different" detergents than engine oil. They aren't necessarily _more_ effective at cleaning oil deposits from an engine.


Erm... caked on oil deposits inside the oil cap and on the dipstick...


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## JeffIsLax (Mar 26, 2005)

mellbergVWfan said:


> Someone asked in the "Drive" section of my local newspaper if switching from synthetic to regular oil is bad. The column writer said it's a misconception and shouldn't cause any harm but I'd like to hear from someone more knowledgeable. ( I.E. atomicalex  )


I heard a long time ago that you couldn't go back to dino oil once you used synthetic oil, something about the two different types wouldn't mix together or would cause some bad reaction a la green coolant to red coolant without a full flush. I'm pretty sure it's a misconception, at least I hope it is because I've gone from synth to dino back to synth on the Jeep.


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

I know that if you take a radiator cap off when it is hot, it can spray. Why is this? If there was any pressure in the system, wouldn't it just push into the coolant reservoir?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

sjt1985 said:


> I know that if you take a radiator cap off when it is hot, it can spray. Why is this? If there was any pressure in the system, wouldn't it just push into the coolant reservoir?


The system is highly pressurized because it's near-boiling. We add anti-freeze to raise and lower the boiling and freezing point, respectively, but we could theoretically run straight water because the pressure actually raises the boiling point of water too (physics).

Depends on what system you're talking about. By "radiator cap", I assume the normal overflow type, with a cap actually ON the radiator. The cap has a spring in it, that vents to the overflow tank only beyond a certain pressure (and also, if the pressure in the system goes to a vacuum, it'll suck in new fluid). The expansion tank is vented to atmosphere to vent to the air as needed (think one of those old fashioned barometers).

In a system like VW uses (and who knows what else), they don't use a radiator cap. Instead, the air in the system is contained in the overflow bottle along with spare coolant. There is also a spring-vented cap to prevent danger in a runaway pressure situation.


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

Diamond Dave said:


> It's a racing queue along the same lines of how some racers align their gauges so that the driver knows at a glance that conditions are normal since all the needles point straight up; if one needle isn't pointing straight up, there's a problem.
> 
> The mark on the steering wheel can orient the drive that either something is wrong with the steering or if they are sliding it can help show them where TDC is.


:thumbup:

My upholsterer said every other wheel he does has the stripe. An exaggeration but still not sure if I want to be that trendy...


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

71DubBugBug said:


> Had my heads rebuilt by a shop about 6 months ago.
> Sat in bags in garage.
> 
> Getting ready to put them on the block, and notice that there is red assembly lube on every valve stem, past the seal.
> ...





VDub2625 said:


> Doesn't the whole seal get lubed before install?





71DubBugBug said:


> Have never done it myselft, but im hoping yes


This is not a problem, the valve was coated in lube to prevent damage damage to the seal, It will be rinsed from the valve by air/fuel when running. This and other various chemicals (and metals) are one of the reasons for a initial oil service soon after break in.


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## DasCC (Feb 24, 2009)

VR6 GLX Man said:


> This one just popped in my head, but it seems kinda obvious, but the pollen filter, how many people actually change that thing out?


My buddy had 120k on his '05 accord. Never changed. Pulled it out, practically filled with rocks. Tons of debris. 


Typos courtesy of iPhone 4 using Tapatalk


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## Diamond Dave (Mar 24, 2001)

muffintop said:


> If my Miata has 50:50 weight distribution, why should I have to rotate my tires?


 
I don't rotate the tires on my Miata. It's less about weight distribution and more about tire size. I figure between the front tires turning side to side and the back tires peeling out or sliding on occasion, they're all getting worked, so why bother. I only expect about 18Kmi from them anyway.



muffintop said:


> Why does my miata have pressure built up in the gas tank when I take the cap off to fill up?


The temperature in the tank will rise as you drive and the fuel will expand. Happens more in warm weather than cold weather. Not all cars utilize the same type of charcoal canister for venting the gas tanks, so it won't be the same for every vehicle ever produced.





MustacheGT said:


> My upholsterer said every other wheel he does has the stripe. An exaggeration but still not sure if I want to be that trendy...


I'd say styling queue as opposed to "trendy". A better sampling would be to look where you use the car. If at the track, how many people have it? if a DD, look in your parking garage.




JeffIsLax said:


> I heard a long time ago that you couldn't go back to dino oil once you used synthetic oil.


You can combine most motor oils at will. No foaming, bubbling, or frothing will occur.


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## overst33r (Jul 18, 2006)

Why are cars not quiet when they are off the throttle and in gear if there is no fuel being burned/exploded?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

mariok2006 said:


> Why are cars not quiet when they are off the throttle and in gear if there is no fuel being burned/exploded?


There is always fuel burned at idle. The volume is low because the rpm are low.


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## overst33r (Jul 18, 2006)

barry2952 said:


> There is always fuel burned at idle. The volume is low because the rpm are low.


By "in gear" I meant decelerating. Deceleration Fuel cutoff, all modern cars have it.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

mariok2006 said:


> By "in gear" I meant decelerating. Deceleration Fuel cutoff, all modern cars have it.


Since when does in-gear mean decelerating?


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## overst33r (Jul 18, 2006)

barry2952 said:


> Since when does in-gear mean decelerating?


"off the throttle and in-gear" = decelerating. sorry for the confusion


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## JeffIsLax (Mar 26, 2005)

mariok2006 said:


> Why are cars not quiet when they are off the throttle and in gear if there is no fuel being burned/exploded?


They actually do get noticeably quieter when decelerating in gear, off throttle. The noise that you hear, however, is the engine basically acting as an air compressor. Those devices get pretty noisy themselves, just not as loud as an ICE.


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

So the steering shimmy saga continues. Having replaced inner and outer tie rods, tires, lower ball joints, wheels/tires rebalanced several times, the mechanic now theorizes that the valve internal to the steering rack which regulates fluid flow is malfunctioning and will now let the rack stay steady, which is causing the steering shake. 

Question 1: Can someone explain how this malfunctioning valve would cause the steering wheel and entire front end to shake?
Question 2: Can the valve be replaced without having to do the entire rack?
Question 3: Is there anything else that it could be? He said it could possibly be the axles but then the steering would shake all at the time at all speeds, which is does not because it comes and goes.


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## overst33r (Jul 18, 2006)

Assuming a functioning radiator/thermostat, how can a car overheat when the heater turns on? Cracked heater core?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

mariok2006 said:


> Assuming a functioning radiator/thermostat, how can a car overheat when the heater turns on? Cracked heater core?


There is nothing in a heater core that would cause the engine to overheat. Quite the opposite. You can bring down the temperature of an overheating engine by turning the heat on. The heater core is a miniature radiator. If it was cracked it would be leaking. You'd know it.


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## overst33r (Jul 18, 2006)

barry2952 said:


> There is nothing in a heater core that would cause the engine to overheat. Quite the opposite. You can bring down the temperature of an overheating engine by turning the heat on. The heater core is a miniature radiator. If it was cracked it would be leaking. You'd know it.


Got it, that's what I thought. My sisters car overheats randomly and does so every time the heater turns on.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

mariok2006 said:


> Got it, that's what I thought. My sisters car overheats randomly and does so every time the heater turns on.


That should have nothing to do with it. Did you understand what I wrote?

Many overheating problems stem from engines that are not "burped" properly. You need to release the air bubble that formed at the top of the engine. Do that and your problem should go away.


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## [email protected] (Apr 21, 2006)

Assle said:


> So the steering shimmy saga continues. Having replaced inner and outer tie rods, tires, lower ball joints, wheels/tires rebalanced several times, the mechanic now theorizes that the valve internal to the steering rack which regulates fluid flow is malfunctioning and will now let the rack stay steady, which is causing the steering shake.
> 
> Question 1: Can someone explain how this malfunctioning valve would cause the steering wheel and entire front end to shake?
> Question 2: Can the valve be replaced without having to do the entire rack?
> Question 3: Is there anything else that it could be? He said it could possibly be the axles but then the steering would shake all at the time at all speeds, which is does not because it comes and goes.


It's in your head.


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## overst33r (Jul 18, 2006)

barry2952 said:


> That should have nothing to do with it. Did you understand what I wrote?
> 
> Many overheating problems stem from engines that are not "burped" properly. You need to release the air bubble that formed at the top of the engine. Do that and your problem should go away.


I do understand, that's just the only time she says she can make it overheat on purpose. I've burped the system several times.


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## mike_A3 (Jun 30, 2008)

Last time I was doing an oil change I was all like ho-hum what else can I do, pulled that baby out and ewwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww


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## mike_A3 (Jun 30, 2008)

mariok2006 said:


> Why are cars not quiet when they are off the throttle and in gear if there is no fuel being burned/exploded?


I wondered the same thing. Put your car in gear, drive down a hill with your foot off the gas, then take the damn key OUT. The noise from the engine won't change if there was no fuel in the first place. It'll depend on your engine management system. The 1992 civic, I mean 1995 JDM prelude engine management system I tried it with; no change in sound. 

Air is still being compressed by the pistons. But I still wonder, why do much noise.


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## true story (Jun 18, 2007)

Afraid to ask because of the many incorrect answers I’ve seen in this thread, but…
I was given a presentation on how to make my company's generators (we use Cat turbo diesel) work more efficiently by injecting ionized water into the cylinders. The guy giving us the pitch claimed that the water (no alcohol, just straight ionized water) would drop the internal temp by upwards of 300 degrees. He said the result would be "x" amount of improved fuel efficiency as well as added benefits of cleaning the cylinders yada, yada, yada. Most of the guys in the room just blew this guy off and we decided not to go with it (I agreed for other reasons), but it made me wonder about the decrease in temp. If an internal combustion engine is limited on its efficiency proven by the Carnot cycle, and volumetric efficiency is maximized by the forced induction, would lowering the internal temp really make a difference? From my understanding of the presentation, the water would be injected prior to detonation, so that would lower the heat added which would lose efficiency versus removing the heat in the heat rejected which would increase efficiency. And also, with a fuel like diesel that needs certain pressures and temperatures to ignite, wouldn't lowering the temp too low run the risk of the fuel not igniting? In this presentation, he mentioned nothing of upping our compression ratios or injecting more fuel, so I don't see that being the reason he was claiming the returns he was.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

true story said:


> Afraid to ask because of the many incorrect answers I’ve seen in this thread, but…
> I was given a presentation on how to make my company's generators (we use Cat turbo diesel) work more efficiently by injecting ionized water into the cylinders.......


This sounds like a cross between water injection, and an HHO generator. Other than reading a few DIY's and e-How articles, I'm no expert on either system, but those are the only just-add-water systems I know of.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Wouldn't injecting water in and of itself raise compression?


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

true story said:


> Afraid to ask because of the many incorrect answers I’ve seen in this thread, but…
> I was given a presentation on how to make my company's generators (we use Cat turbo diesel) work more efficiently by injecting ionized water into the cylinders. The guy giving us the pitch claimed that the water (no alcohol, just straight ionized water) would drop the internal temp by upwards of 300 degrees. He said the result would be "x" amount of improved fuel efficiency as well as added benefits of cleaning the cylinders yada, yada, yada. Most of the guys in the room just blew this guy off and we decided not to go with it (I agreed for other reasons), but it made me wonder about the decrease in temp. If an internal combustion engine is limited on its efficiency proven by the Carnot cycle, and volumetric efficiency is maximized by the forced induction, would lowering the internal temp really make a difference? From my understanding of the presentation, the water would be injected prior to detonation, so that would lower the heat added which would lose efficiency versus removing the heat in the heat rejected which would increase efficiency. And also, with a fuel like diesel that needs certain pressures and temperatures to ignite, wouldn't lowering the temp too low run the risk of the fuel not igniting? In this presentation, he mentioned nothing of upping our compression ratios or injecting more fuel, so I don't see that being the reason he was claiming the returns he was.


first things first: what, exactly, was he sellling?

i'm pretty sure it's easier to answer the question if we have this piece of information.

there's a lot of things that _can/could_ happen.

but we'd just be shooting in the dark unless we know what the angle is here.


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## true story (Jun 18, 2007)

He was selling a water injection kit. Not a water/meth, but a strictly water kit. In the process, water is ionized in some sort of way and then injected. We were entertaining ideas on ways to increase our efficiency. 



VDub2625 said:


> Wouldn't injecting water in and of itself raise compression?


I could see the water raising the compression greatly, but from my understanding, diesel is like C4, you need heat and compression for the boom. So say you are injecting water at ambient air temp into the cylinder. The turbo has compressed the air up to a certain pressure and increased the temp. The aftercooler has brought the temp down after compression, then you inject the water that allegedly has the potential to bring the temp down another 300 degrees. But like you mentioned, additional water would result in compression and compression = heat. I've been going in circles about this part. Maybe my logic is flawed in there somewhere.


So the two questions that really got me stumped;

Wouldn't lowering the temp via water injection (a claimed 300 degrees) immediately prior to detonation run the risk of losing the conditions favorable for ignition?

Does lowering temperature in the heat addition part of the cycle really improve efficiency? I thought it was removing heat in the heat rejected part of the cycle that increases efficiency.


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## vonnie77 (May 4, 2011)

This may have been asked before so I am sorry if its a repeat but you always hear both sides to changing Transmission fluids. Some swear you never have to touch it, while others say you have to religiously change it every 40K or so. Any one have any insight on this?


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## feels_road (Jan 27, 2005)

vonnie77 said:


> This may have been asked before so I am sorry if its a repeat but you always hear both sides to changing Transmission fluids. Some swear you never have to touch it, while others say you have to religiously change it every 40K or so. Any one have any insight on this?


There was a recent main thread on this. IMO, you should follow manufacturer recommendations regarding regular or severe cycle, as appropriate - unless those recommendations are less than 60,000 - 80,000 miles, in which case I would use that. If recommendations are every 40,000 miles, I would never, ever want to go above that. 

Decades back, there was this idea that if someone just skipped fluid changes, it was better to let it sit. IMO, that is at best alchemy, or worse ignorant wishful thinking. Yes, a transmission may have to be cleaned in the worst case scenario - but it will certainly fail a complete death faster without a fluid change.


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

When looking at a german v8. 

Which head is the left and right. 



Is it the same as american, the passenger side is the right, cylinders 1-4. 
Left and right is determined as if one is sitting in the drivers seat looking forward.


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

barry2952 said:


> There is nothing in a heater core that would cause the engine to overheat. Quite the opposite. You can bring down the temperature of an overheating engine by turning the heat on. The heater core is a miniature radiator. If it was cracked it would be leaking. You'd know it.


Air bubble trapped in air or a clog could cause over hearing.


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## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

71DubBugBug said:


> When looking at a german v8.
> 
> Which head is the left and right.
> 
> ...


Depending on which American V8 you are referring to *cough*Chevy*cough*, cylinders 1-4 may not all be on the same bank.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

StormChaser said:


> Air bubble trapped in air or a clog could cause over hearing.


An air bubble in a heater core nor a clog cannot cause overheating in a heater core. An air bubble at the top of the engine can. The water circuit for the heater core is separate from the engine.


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## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

mariok2006 said:


> Why are cars not quiet when they are off the throttle and in gear if there is no fuel being burned/exploded?


As long as the engine is running, fuel is being burned/exploded lol.

That explosion is what keeps the engine rotating


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

RacerrRex said:


> As long as the engine is running, fuel is being burned/exploded lol.
> 
> That explosion is what keeps the engine rotating


Ah...no. MOST engines turn off the fuel completely when in gear costing with foot off the gas.


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## helement2003 (Aug 3, 2004)

RacerrRex said:


> As long as the engine is running, fuel is being burned/exploded lol.
> 
> That explosion is what keeps the engine rotating


Wrong. 



StormChaser said:


> Ah...no. MOST engines turn off the fuel completely when in gear costing with foot off the gas.


Right. The forward motion of the car, and therefore the turning wheels connected to the drivetrain keep the internals spinning. 

LOOK MA, NO FUEL! :laugh:


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

ThreadBomber said:


> Depending on which American V8 you are referring to *cough*Chevy*cough*, cylinders 1-4 may not all be on the same bank.


yes i know they r numbered different, but on an audi cyl 1-4 are on the passagner side, cyl 4 being in the back fo the engine bay, and 1 being rite behind the radiator, and cyl 5-8 on the drivers side

so in my engine, 1-4 would be the right side of the engine


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

And horray for your engine, but that is not anything that's standardized nationally, or even among individual manufacturers.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

StormChaser said:


> Ah...no. MOST engines turn off the fuel completely when in gear costing with foot off the gas.


They stop consuming fuel, and start consuming momentum. :laugh:


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## Shmi (Mar 25, 2009)

Why are current-year cars marketed as next-year cars? For example if you go buy a new M5 right now (or any brand new car), it'll probably be listed as a 2013 BMW M5. Why? It was built late last year or early this year.  Marketing reasons?


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Model_year said:


> In the United States, automobile model year sales traditionally begin with the fourth quarter of the preceding year. So model year refers to the "sales" model year; for example, vehicles sold during the period from October 1 to the next December 30 is considered one model year.[1] In addition, the launch of the new model year has long been coordinated to the launch of the traditional new television season (as defined by A.C. Nielsen) in late September, because of the heavy dependence between television to offer products from automakers to advertise, and the car companies to launch their new models at a high-profile time of year.[


IIRC it is the EPA, that requires the vehicle be available for sale on Jan 1 of the year attributed, ie: Jan 2 2012 is the first sale date for a 2013


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

New car introductions were always in September when I was growing up in the '50s. They would soap or paper the windows of the dealership to raise interest.

I think it came about due to the auto companies all doing production line shut downs during the summer. Retooling then would allow them to get the new models out by September, effectively becoming the following year's model.


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## Shmi (Mar 25, 2009)

Interesting. Thanks. :beer:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Shmi said:


> Why are current-year cars marketed as next-year cars? For example if you go buy a new M5 right now (or any brand new car), it'll probably be listed as a 2013 BMW M5. Why? It was built late last year or early this year.  Marketing reasons?


legally, they are allowed up to a full year in advance (Jan 1st 2012-Dec 31st 2013 for 2013 models for example), but as was stated, traditionally it's late summer that they go into full force. 

One particular early example I can think of (IIRC) was the new Wrangler, it was released in very early 1986 as an 87. it's just timing.


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

http://www.law.cornell.edu/uscode/html/uscode26/usc_sec_26_00004064----000-.html said:


> (4) Model year
> The term “model year”, with reference to any specific calendar year, means a manufacturer’s annual production period (as determined by the EPA Administrator) which includes January 1 of such calendar year. If a manufacturer has no annual production period, the term “model year” means the calendar year.


a little more


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## Shmi (Mar 25, 2009)

Way more info than I expected, but it all makes a lot more sense now. 

So do manufacturers do this in every country? Gambit quoted some EPA regulations, but these obviously only apply to cars sold stateside. Do they do the same in Europe, Asia, etc? Is a 2013 Fiesta in the US sold as a 2013 in France, for example?

I guess it would just come down to individual countries's rules & regulations then?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I believe the rules are similar. i can't speak for today, but I do know as late as the 80s/early 90s in Europe, calendar year was model year. I think it's changed to a more USA-style system now.


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## jettafan[atic] (Dec 2, 2008)

feels_road said:


> Decades back, there was this idea that if someone just skipped fluid changes, it was better to let it sit. IMO, that is at best alchemy, or worse ignorant wishful thinking. Yes, a transmission may have to be cleaned in the worst case scenario - but it will certainly fail a complete death faster without a fluid change.


Well, kind of true. If you miss the service interval for your auto trans it's not a bad idea to do a drain and fill. Dropping the pan and filling it back up with fresh fluid won't hurt the trans. Don't get your fluid flushed by one of the fluid exchanger units though because over time the clutch packs can wear and become this sort of sludgy, part clutch / part trans fluid and the fluid exchangers can push that clutch material right out of the trans and replace it with slippery new ATF. This of course will cause a slipping trans, poor shifting, etc...


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## veedublvr (Feb 2, 2001)

Is it bad to shut off the engine on an automatic transmission vehicle leaving it in drive ?

I occasionally find myself doing this. I drive a manual 98% of the time and for the life on me I still turn off my truck and forget to put it back in park. Of course once I realize I can't get the key out, then I turn it back on and push it back into park..


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

veedublvr said:


> Is it bad to shut off the engine on an automatic transmission vehicle leaving it in drive ?
> 
> I occasionally find myself doing this. I drive a manual 98% of the time and for the life on me I still turn off my truck and forget to put it back in park. Of course once I realize I can't get the key out, then I turn it back on and push it back into park..


Parking? No. Though you run the risk of the car rolling away on hills, without the transmission pump running to provide pressure to the clutches, the trans is not connected to the engine when the engine is off, essentially. There is a small piece of steel in the transmission, commonly referred to as the parking pawl that engages a clutch basket on the output shaft of the trans, this is what keeps the car from moving when you put it in park. Many people believe that this pawl easily breaks, in all my years working on cars I have yet to come across a car with a broken one. 

Aside from the car possibly rolling into something, what you are doing is not hard on anything. Except maybe the ignition switch, which you are surely cranking on, wondering why it won't start.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Most all cars made in the last 20 years won't let you take the key out 

No, no damage in that scenario. THe only way to damage an auto is to leave it in D or Neutral while rolling (such as flat towing, or with the drive wheels down). I'm not sure on the specifics, but the auto trans is a hydraulic device, and without the engine turning and pressurizing the fluid to activate the magicness, it can be damaged... somehow.

(I've tried my damndest to figure out how an auto trans works, i guess I'll never know until i take one apart)


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

VDub2625 said:


> Most all cars made in the last 20 years won't let you take the key out
> 
> No, no damage in that scenario. THe only way to damage an auto is to leave it in D or Neutral while rolling (such as flat towing, or with the drive wheels down). I'm not sure on the specifics, but the auto trans is a hydraulic device, and without the engine turning and pressurizing the fluid to activate the magicness, it can be damaged... somehow.
> 
> (I've tried my damndest to figure out how an auto trans works, i guess I'll never know until i take one apart)


Because the lubrication circuits that provide oil to the bearings and gear teeth would be dry without said pump running.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

TurboWraith said:


> Because the lubrication circuits that provide oil to the bearings and gear teeth would be dry without said pump running.


The important thing to mention here, is the pump is on the engine side of the torque converter. Some cars (early saturns among others) have it on the tranny side, so the fluid will get pumped still, for flat towing.


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

monoaural said:


> The important thing to mention here, is the pump is on the engine side of the torque converter. Some cars (early saturns among others) have it on the tranny side, so the fluid will get pumped still, for flat towing.


That is true, however said pump is only for lubrication. There is still a main, engine driven gerotor pump for the hydraulic system. A ground driven pump will not work for clutch actuation for obvious reasons.


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

sjt1985 said:


> I know that if you take a radiator cap off when it is hot, it can spray. Why is this? If there was any pressure in the system, wouldn't it just push into the coolant reservoir?





VDub2625 said:


> The system is highly pressurized because it's near-boiling. We add anti-freeze to raise and lower the boiling and freezing point, respectively, but we could theoretically run straight water because the pressure actually raises the boiling point of water too (physics).
> 
> Depends on what system you're talking about. By "radiator cap", I assume the normal overflow type, with a cap actually ON the radiator. The cap has a spring in it, that vents to the overflow tank only beyond a certain pressure (and also, if the pressure in the system goes to a vacuum, it'll suck in new fluid). The expansion tank is vented to atmosphere to vent to the air as needed (think one of those old fashioned barometers).
> 
> In a system like VW uses (and who knows what else), they don't use a radiator cap. Instead, the air in the system is contained in the overflow bottle along with spare coolant. There is also a spring-vented cap to prevent danger in a runaway pressure situation.


The spray is caused by the fact that the coolant is under pressure and above its unpressurized boiling point. When you take the cap off, the boiling point decreases immediately to less then the current coolant temperature, causing it to violently and instantaniously boil. Ever take the weight off the top of your mother's pressure cooker when it was in use? Same concept there.


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## .:bigred12 (Dec 16, 2010)

Say you park your FWD car in a spot you weren't supposed to. Your leave your car in P (for automatics) or R (for manuals) and you pull the handbrake, effectively locking both front and rear wheels. A towing company gets called over to tow you.

Will your transmission get ruined if you car is left in gear? Will they try to mess with the linkage under the car to get it out of gear? Or will they just leave? What happens if they tow it out of the spot and mess up your transmission? Are they liable?

(*This never happened to me, I'm just curious)


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

A standard in gear will usually just turn the engine, NBD as long as it's not fast, and backwards. I've seen those repo shows, an auto in park will just drag the wheels while they pull it out of the spot, until they can re-hook it. 99% of auto drivers don't use the brake (I do, but everyone yells at me for it!). If it's a repo, they have the keys to get in and release the brake anyway, or maybe they'll flat bed tow it (dragging it up the ramp should be easy as it's slippery metal).


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

.:bigred12 said:


> Say you park your FWD car in a spot you weren't supposed to. Your leave your car in P (for automatics) or R (for manuals) and you pull the handbrake, effectively locking both front and rear wheels. A towing company gets called over to tow you...


Lift it up, stuff dollies underneath and tow away. :beer:


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## Brimjolt (May 16, 2008)

Does down shifting use up gas? Or is it a transmission thing?


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

Why do some cars have a glow-in-the-dark pull tab in the trunk?










Apparently this is a mandatory requirement of all cars built in the last 10 years? http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/...dvice/trunk-entrapment-406/overview/index.htm

Is this seriously that big an issue that a new industry-wide requirement had to be created? :screwy:


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Assle said:


> Why do some cars have a glow-in-the-dark pull tab in the trunk?
> 
> Is this seriously that big an issue that a new industry-wide requirement had to be created? :screwy:


It's simply because a relatively high number of children have died from getting trapped in the trunks of cars while playing. The glow handle is so they can see it with the trunk closed.


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

Brimjolt said:


> Does down shifting use up gas? Or is it a transmission thing?


For the time that you're going to try and maintain the same (or greater) vehicle speed as you had in a numerically-higher gear, you will consume more fuel. The act of downshifting itself has no impact on fuel consumption.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Assle said:


> For the time that you're going to try and maintain the same (or greater) vehicle speed as you had in a numerically-higher gear, you will consume more fuel. The act of downshifting itself has no impact on fuel consumption.


Right -- and to add on -- if you downshift to 4th or 3rd to use engine braking to maintain speed going down a mountain, the car will not use any fuel, even if the engine is at 4000 or 5000 RPM.


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## Turq (Nov 9, 2001)

barry2952 said:


> It's simply because a relatively high number of children have died from getting trapped in the trunks of cars while playing. The glow handle is so they can see it with the trunk closed.


Also useful if kidnappers lock you in the trunk. Just hope you're good at judging car speed.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

barry2952 said:


> It's simply because a relatively high number of children have died from getting trapped in the trunks of cars while playing. The glow handle is so they can see it with the trunk closed.


And I believe it has been legally required for the last 10 years or so. 



Assle said:


> For the time that you're going to try and maintain the same (or greater) vehicle speed as you had in a numerically-higher gear, you will consume more fuel. The act of downshifting itself has no impact on fuel consumption.


Exactly. If you're going X speed in gear 2, downshifting to gear 1 and maintaining that same speed means more revs, and higher fuel consumption (though i never understood how it could be "too low" aka chugging, maybe not a complete burn?).


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

Assle said:


> Why do some cars have a glow-in-the-dark pull tab in the trunk?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 < 571.305 571.403 >


Subpart B - Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards

§571.401 Standard No. 401; Interior trunk release. S1. Purpose and scope. This standard establishes the requirement for providing a trunk release mechanism that makes it possible for a person trapped inside the trunk compartment of a passenger car to escape from the compartment. S2. Application. This standard applies to passenger cars that have a trunk compartment. This standard does not apply to passenger cars with a back door. S3. Definitions. Back door means a door or door system on the back end of a passenger car through which cargo can be loaded or unloaded. The term includes the hinged back door on a hatchback or a station wagon. Trunk compartment. (a) Means a space that: (1) Is intended to be used for carrying luggage or cargo, (2) Is wholly separated from the occupant compartment of a passenger car by a permanently attached partition or by a fixed or fold-down seat back and/or partition, (3) Has a trunk lid, and (4) Is large enough so that the three-year-old child dummy described in Subpart C of Part 572 can be placed inside the trunk compartment, and the trunk lid can be closed and latched with all removable equipment furnished by the passenger car manufacturer stowed in accordance with label(s) on the passenger car or information in the passenger car owner's manual, or, if no information is provided, as located when the passenger car is delivered. (Note: For purposes of this standard, the Part 572 Subpart C test dummy need not be equipped with the accelerometers specified in §572.21.) (b) Does not include a sub-compartment within the trunk compartment. Trunk lid means a moveable body panel that is not designed or intended as a passenger car entry point for passengers and that provides access from outside a passenger car to a trunk compartment. The term does not include a back door or the lid of a storage compartment located inside the passenger compartment of a passenger car. S4. Requirements. S4.1 Each passenger car with a trunk compartment must have an automatic or manual release mechanism inside the trunk compartment that unlatches the trunk lid. Each trunk release shall conform, at the manufacturer's option, to either S4.2(a) and S4.3, or S4.2(b) and S4.3. The manufacturer shall select the option by the time it certifies the vehicle and may not thereafter select a different option for the vehicle. S4.2(a) Each manual release mechanism installed pursuant to S4.1 of this standard must include a feature, like lighting or phosphorescence, that allows the release mechanism to be easily seen inside the closed trunk compartment. (b) Each automatic release mechanism installed pursuant to S4.1 of this section must unlatch the trunk lid within 5 minutes of when the trunk lid is closed with a person inside the trunk compartment. S4.3(a) Except as provided in paragraph S4.3(b), actuation of the release mechanism required by S4.1 of this standard must completely release the trunk lid from all latching positions of the trunk lid latch. (b)(1) For passenger cars with a front trunk compartment that has a front opening trunk lid required to have a secondary latching position or latch system, actuation of the release mechanism required by paragraph S4.1 of this standard must result in the following: (i) When the passenger car is stationary, the release mechanism must release the trunk lid from all latching positions or latch systems; (ii) When the passenger car is moving forward at a speed less than 5 km/h, the release mechanism must release the trunk lid from the primary latching position or latch system, and may release the trunk lid from all latching positions or latch systems; (iii) When the passenger car is moving forward at a speed of 5 km/h or greater, the release mechanism must release the trunk lid from the primary latching position or latch system, but must not release the trunk lid from the secondary latching position or latch system. (2) The passenger cars described in paragraph S4.3(b)(1) are excluded from the requirements of this standard until September 1, 2002. [66 FR 43121, Aug. 17, 2001, as amended at 67 FR 19523, Apr. 22, 2002]


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

VDub2625 said:


> (though i never understood how it could be "too low" aka chugging, maybe not a complete burn?).


Do you mean engine lugging, which is usually felt when you drive too low of a mph in too numerically-high of a gear (e.g., driving 25mph in 5th)? If so, the basic explanation for why that's harmful is the engine is being used to rotate too much gear (in weight and resistance from that weight). This in turn puts a more-than-tolerable amount of strain on the rotating assembly (connecting rods, bearings, oil pump, and crankcase pressure). Generally, the heavier the rotating assembly, the less strain it is on the engine. Using basic assumptions (an 8 cylinder has a heavier crankshaft than a 4-cylinder, 8 connecting rods weigh more than 4, etc.), you could say that *generally* lugging an engine is worse on a smaller engine. In some cases of engine lugging, there will be pinging in the combustion chamber, excessive carbon buildup, fouled plugs, and other symptoms you generally see in cars that spend a lot of time idling over years and years of service.

A detailed write-up on the effects of lugging here: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1143775


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## mhjett (Oct 16, 2000)

helement2003 said:


> Right. The forward motion of the car, and therefore the turning wheels connected to the drivetrain keep the internals spinning.
> 
> LOOK MA, NO FUEL! :laugh:


I've also heard that most cars cut off fuel while coasting. But if that's true, then if you are coasting in a manual trans car with the throttle closed and push in the clutch, why does the engine drop down to idle instead of stall?


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

Assle said:


> Do you mean engine lugging, which is usually felt when you drive too low of a mph in too numerically-high of a gear...


Correct. In _extreme_ cases a very high load can be put on the piston, sending that load to the connecting rod and rod bearing when the engine is spinning so slowly that there's not much oil pressure at the bearing to resist that load, scuffing the bearing. With modern fuel injection, it's possible that this is no longer the case, as it could be limited in power and therefore cylinder pressure/bearing load. :beer:


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

mhjett said:


> I've also heard that most cars cut off fuel while coasting. But if that's true, then if you are coasting in a manual trans car with the throttle closed and push in the clutch, why does the engine drop down to idle instead of stall?


You have to be in gear for it to do that. That's why you get better mileage by _not_ putting it in neutral/disengaging the clutch.


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## Techun (Dec 27, 2006)

mhjett said:


> I've also heard that most cars cut off fuel while coasting. But if that's true, then if you are coasting in a manual trans car with the throttle closed and push in the clutch, why does the engine drop down to idle instead of stall?


because it starts burning fuel again to stay running. That's the transition from "we have to turn this fast due to being connected to the road" to "oh man we're on our own here, lets start idling"


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## Professor Gascan (Sep 11, 2002)

mhjett said:


> I've also heard that most cars cut off fuel while coasting. But if that's true, then if you are coasting in a manual trans car with the throttle closed and push in the clutch, why does the engine drop down to idle instead of stall?


Because the electronics have picked up that the transmission is no longer keeping the engine running through momentum at that point. The ECU uses the idle as an "anti-stall," but only if the clutch is pushed in or the car is out of gear. Otherwise it assumes that momentum or throttle is enough to keep the engine turning over.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Assle said:


> Do you mean engine lugging, which is usually felt when you drive too low of a mph in too numerically-high of a gear (e.g., driving 25mph in 5th)? If so, the basic explanation for why that's harmful is the engine is being used to rotate too much gear (in weight and resistance from that weight). This in turn puts a more-than-tolerable amount of strain on the rotating assembly (connecting rods, bearings, oil pump, and crankcase pressure). Generally, the heavier the rotating assembly, the less strain it is on the engine. Using basic assumptions (an 8 cylinder has a heavier crankshaft than a 4-cylinder, 8 connecting rods weigh more than 4, etc.), you could say that *generally* lugging an engine is worse on a smaller engine. In some cases of engine lugging, there will be pinging in the combustion chamber, excessive carbon buildup, fouled plugs, and other symptoms you generally see in cars that spend a lot of time idling over years and years of service.
> 
> A detailed write-up on the effects of lugging here: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1143775





Air and water do mix said:


> Correct. In _extreme_ cases a very high load can be put on the piston, sending that load to the connecting rod and rod bearing when the engine is spinning so slowly that there's not much oil pressure at the bearing to resist that load, scuffing the bearing. With modern fuel injection, it's possible that this is no longer the case, as it could be limited in power and therefore cylinder pressure/bearing load. :beer:


Thanks for the info. Is there any reason this also creates bad economy, ignoring the engine stress? I wonder why there is a 'sweet spot" for engines, when in an ideal scenario, the lower revs, the better 9as long as there's no stalling!). I guess at some point, the amount of power produced per firing per cylinder gets to be too low to keep the wheels turning against the resistance of the car. Or something. lol.



mhjett said:


> I've also heard that most cars cut off fuel while coasting. But if that's true, then if you are coasting in a manual trans car with the throttle closed and push in the clutch, why does the engine drop down to idle instead of stall?


The ECU knows what revs the engine is doing, and if it senses the throttle close above a certian RPM (old VWs are 1700 or so, others may vary), it shuts off the fuel. When you clutch, and the revs drop, once they pass that mark, the injectors fire back up, and that's why you'll see an engine drop quick, and then settle to idle, rather than dropping like a rock.

It does it by engine speed and throttle position, not the speed of the car or acceleration.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

VDub2625 said:


> Thanks for the info. Is there any reason this also creates bad economy, ignoring the engine stress? I wonder why there is a 'sweet spot" for engines, when in an ideal scenario, the lower revs, the better (as long as there's no stalling!). I guess at some point, the amount of power produced per firing per cylinder gets to be too low to keep the wheels turning against the resistance of the car. Or something. lol.


That's close, but at a certain point, it simply gets less efficient, as the heads/valves/ports are designed to flow air at a certain rate. If you veer too far from those parameters, that efficiency is lost. I would imagine that the combustion is faster than what the piston is moving, thereby not only causing the aforementioned load, but once the pressure is leaked past the rings (_some_ is lost on every firing) then the rest of the downward movement of the piston actually uses energy instead of helping to develop it into something besides heat.


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## mhjett (Oct 16, 2000)

VDub2625 said:


> The ECU knows what revs the engine is doing, and if it senses the throttle close above a certian RPM (old VWs are 1700 or so, others may vary), it shuts off the fuel. When you clutch, and the revs drop, once they pass that mark, the injectors fire back up, and that's why you'll see an engine drop quick, and then settle to idle, rather than dropping like a rock.
> 
> It does it by engine speed and throttle position, not the speed of the car or acceleration.


Thanks, that makes sense. I figured there must be something that triggers the injectors to fire back up again as the revs drop, and that would make sense - the engine speed sensor - rather than a sensor on the clutch or gearshift. And I would guess (at least in my '95 Jetta) that the ECU has no clue if the car is in/out of gear or whether the clutch is depressed (unless tied into the clutch switch for the cruise control), so if you decelerate in gear _without _ clutching and your road speed is enough to drop the RPMs to near idle, that's why you get engine bucking, even though you're not touching the throttle. Essentially, the injectors are back on and the idle speed control comes into play.


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

mhjett said:


> I've also heard that most cars cut off fuel while coasting. But if that's true, then if you are coasting in a manual trans car with the throttle closed and push in the clutch, why does the engine drop down to idle instead of stall?


it has a mechanism to keep it from stalling, cuts the fuel back in before it stalls. Notice how the RPMs drop slightly below normal idle, then pop up...


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

You get bucking because the engine assumes it's a normal idle drop scenario- below 1700, fire up the injectors, as the descent continues, the ISV opens to allow air to smooth the idle to 900. If there is a load, the ISV is constantly adjusting (because it's not normal to have a load at idle), thus bucking. if the load is smooth, the ISV can actually overcome it- sometimes in slow traffic, if you ease off the clutch slow, and just tip the gas slightly, you can actually make a stick auto-creep, with no feet on the pedals, nice and smooth.

The engine actually operates quite independently, and only on a few basic sensors. It's quite easy to take data from them and assume a certain scenario (such as high RPM/no throttle, you can assume it's coasting). 

No, the ECU has no knowledge of the shifter or clutch position, in any car that I know of (except these newfangled speed shift cars- the Civic, maybe the Focus, do this thing where they allow you to not have to lift off the throttle, they hang the revs while shifting, and the only way i can imagine they do that is by monitoring the clutch pedal for a shift).


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## Dr. Woo (Feb 28, 2003)

VDub2625 said:


> No, the ECU has no knowledge of the shifter or clutch position, in any car that I know of (except these newfangled speed shift cars- the Civic, maybe the Focus, do this thing where they allow you to not have to lift off the throttle, they hang the revs while shifting, and the only way i can imagine they do that is by monitoring the clutch pedal for a shift).


No-lift upshift in the Focus? I'm not sure about that, but I can give it a try and report back.

Not sure if this has anything to do with your assertion about the ECU's knowledge of shifter position, but the Focus will "suggest" an upshift at higher RPM and lower load (or downshift when lugging) by displaying an arrow icon and the gear it recommends.

For example: Leisurely acceleration in 3rd, 2600 RPM, icon:







*4*


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## Techun (Dec 27, 2006)

VDub2625 said:


> You get bucking because the engine assumes it's a normal idle drop scenario- below 1700, fire up the injectors, as the descent continues, the ISV opens to allow air to smooth the idle to 900. If there is a load, the ISV is constantly adjusting (because it's not normal to have a load at idle), thus bucking. if the load is smooth, the ISV can actually overcome it- sometimes in slow traffic, if you ease off the clutch slow, and just tip the gas slightly, you can actually make a stick auto-creep, with no feet on the pedals, nice and smooth.
> 
> The engine actually operates quite independently, and only on a few basic sensors. It's quite easy to take data from them and assume a certain scenario (such as high RPM/no throttle, you can assume it's coasting).
> 
> No, the ECU has no knowledge of the shifter or clutch position, in any car that I know of (except these newfangled speed shift cars- the Civic, maybe the Focus, do this thing where they allow you to not have to lift off the throttle, they hang the revs while shifting, and the only way i can imagine they do that is by monitoring the clutch pedal for a shift).


Even my lowly '98 saturn knows when the clutch is pushed in :wave:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Dr. Woo said:


> No-lift upshift in the Focus? I'm not sure about that, but I can give it a try and report back.
> 
> Not sure if this has anything to do with your assertion about the ECU's knowledge of shifter position, but the Focus will "suggest" an upshift at higher RPM and lower load (or downshift when lugging) by displaying an arrow icon and the gear it recommends.
> 
> ...


Interesting. VW had a similar system in the 70s and 80s, they used a simple vacuum switch (load) and RPM graph to decide if the engine was working too hard in the current gear. The Focus system must be much more advanced, if it can also tell what gear it's in. 



Techun said:


> Even my lowly '98 saturn knows when the clutch is pushed in :wave:


How does it "know" and what dos it do with that info? There are switches on the clutch pedal for cruise control and starter interlock, but those are simple circuits, not to do with the ECU.

I'll admit my expertise is in older VWs but I'm always willing to learn about other systems!


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

VDub2625 said:


> Interesting. VW had a similar system in the 70s and 80s, they used a simple vacuum switch (load) and RPM graph to decide if the engine was working too hard in the current gear. The Focus system must be much more advanced, if it can also tell what gear it's in.
> 
> How does it "know" and what dos it do with that info? There are switches on the clutch pedal for cruise control and starter interlock, but those are simple circuits, not to do with the ECU.
> 
> I'll admit my expertise is in older VWs but I'm always willing to learn about other systems!


My presumption would be that it could figure out what gear it's in because of engine rpm and vehicle speed. The only other signal it would need is a power feed from the clutch switch. I would go as far as to presume that this is standard operating procedure across most (if not all) makes. VWs was little more than your previously mentioned vacuum switch, but it _did_ know not to trigger it while in top gear. :beer:


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## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

The Mk6 GTI also has one of those shift indicator things. It works solely on a throttle position/RPM basis, there is no actual sensor on the clutch/trans for it. You can put the car in gear at a stop, and it doesn't know that, until you start moving. Likewise you can push the clutch in at speed and leave the shifter in gear, and the display just goes blank.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Air and water do mix said:


> My presumption would be that it could figure out what gear it's in because of engine rpm and vehicle speed. The only other signal it would need is a power feed from the clutch switch. I would go as far as to presume that this is standard operating procedure across most (if not all) makes. VWs was little more than your previously mentioned vacuum switch, but it _did_ know not to trigger it while in top gear. :beer:


Of course! that makes perfect sense lol. I wonder what happens if those numbers don't match up.

True, I did forget those cars had a 5th gear switch (which, if disconnected, you could make it come on in top gear, lol). Also, the European stop-start models knew when the shifter was in 1st, and if you pushed it left (toward R and 1) from neutral, to manually start the engine. 

On the diesels, the upshift light was even more basic (no vacuum): it just triggered at a certain RPM; if you floored it; and turned it off if you were high RPM coasting in gear. Basically, just WOT/idle and RPM were the inputs.


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

So engine braking, downshifting to a lower gear, the revs pop up, and the engine revs dropping help the car slow down. 
So unless you hit the gas to rev match, not fuel is being used? And no harm is done as the oil pump and everything continues to spin as long as the crank spins


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## TetsuoShima (Nov 30, 2008)

*FV-QR*

can't believe i'm asking this lol, but the metal rod that holds the hood up..what's the name for it?


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

VDub2625 said:


> Of course! that makes perfect sense lol. I wonder what happens if those numbers don't match up.


As in modified or slipping clutch scenario? I always assumed that a slipping clutch was taken into account and would disable it if parameters exceeded a certain point. On new cars I'm sure it would trigger the CEL, possibly even make it flash. I can't say for sure, though. :beer:


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

TetsuoShima said:


> can't believe i'm asking this lol, but the metal rod that holds the hood up..what's the name for it?


Prop rod. Also known as a headknocker if you hit it hard enough when tinkering under there.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Air and water do mix said:


> Prop rod. Also known as a headknocker if you hit it hard enough when tinkering under there.


I've always called it a hood support.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

71DubBugBug said:


> So engine braking, downshifting to a lower gear, the revs pop up, and the engine revs dropping help the car slow down.
> So unless you hit the gas to rev match, not fuel is being used? And no harm is done as the oil pump and everything continues to spin as long as the crank spins


Yep. (close enough anyway) Even if you hit the gas to rev match, once you take your foot off the throttle, it closes, and the engine knows this, and cuts fuel. if you lean on it, even a little bit, the idle switch is let go (or on newer cars, the potentiometer reports a not completely closed throttle or gas pedal), and the fuel starts again. An out of adjustment or dirty throttle can cause excessive fuel useage.


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## Dr. Woo (Feb 28, 2003)

I can verify that the 2012 Focus _does not_ have a no-lift upshift feature in the U.S. That was a rather worrisome "thud."


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## simonrjones (Apr 7, 2011)

thesteve said:


> I could use a history lesson......
> Why do we have steering wheels on the left hand side/Europe, etc. has it on the right......(who decided to differ and for what reason)........


Something to do with the steering wheel side always being in the centre of the road?. Perhaps U.S cart and buggy operators always used the right hand side to drive on when roads got paved and they passed each other head on on the right?

If because most of Europe drove on the left, the steering wheel is on the right(centre of road) and buggy transition to car kept on the right hand side of the road, the steering wheel (for safety reasons) had to stay on the centre, which being the left hand side of the car?

Actually, Germanys cars are left handed also are'nt they?, As an ex-pat, I never lived in the U.K POST _Chunnel_, so I never got to drive from U.K to France, then Germany, So I don't know what really happens once you've gone through?


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

Here's an explanation of steering side orientation: http://users.telenet.be/worldstandards/driving on the left.htm

To summarize for the tl;dr crowd:

Most people are right-handed so mounting a horse is easier from the left.
It is preferred to mount/dismount a horse from the street so you would ride a horse on the side where it's easiest to get off, which is one the left.
Colonies of the new world (America) wanted to get away from England's standards so they switched to driving on the right.
US-made cars shipped globally, countries adapted to the cars coming over with steering wheels on the left and to be driven on the right side of the road.
A few countries retained left-side driving out of impracticality of switching over and/or tradition.

When I vacationed in the Bahamas, I saw both right and left-hand steering cars, but they only drive on the right side. That's gotta be kind of odd.


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

simonrjones said:


> Actually, Germanys cars are left handed also are'nt they?, As an ex-pat, I never lived in the U.K POST _Chunnel_, so I never got to drive from U.K to France, then Germany, So I don't know what really happens once you've gone through?


Someone who has been to germany please speak up, but I think german cars have the wheel on the same side as the US (actually all of europe except the UK).


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

Right hand drive is the exception. UK, Japan, Australia (I think New Zealand), and only a few others.


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

What fails on diesel injection pumps that requires for them to be rebuilt? I looked at the anatomy of one and there are A LOT of parts in there.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

Assle said:


> Colonies of the new world (America) wanted to get away from England's standards so they switched to driving on the right.


It's my understanding that Henry Ford couldn't make right-hand drive work on the Model 'T', so he made it left-hand drive. Since it sold 15 million, it _became_ the standard, whether anyone else wanted rhd or not! 

Can anyone confirm/deny?



Assle said:


> US-made cars shipped globally, countries adapted to the cars coming over with steering wheels on the left and to be driven on the right side of the road.


That's the way I understand that, though. :beer:


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

barry2952 said:


> I've always called it a hood support.


How about "built-in broomstick"?


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## Dr. Woo (Feb 28, 2003)

"Ogre toothpick."


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

Air and water do mix said:


> Can anyone confirm/deny?


From wiki:

In the late 18th century, the shift from left to right that took place in countries such as the United States *was based on teamsters'* use of large freight wagons pulled by several pairs of horses. *The wagons had no driver's seat, so a postilion sat on the left rear horse and held his whip in his right hand.* Seated on the left, the driver preferred that other wagons pass him on the left so that he could be sure to keep clear of the wheels of oncoming wagons.[22] He did that by driving on the right side of the road.[20]

Right Handed Union goons!


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

Surf Green said:


> From wiki:
> 
> In the late 18th century, the shift from left to right that took place in countries such as the United States *was based on teamsters'* use of large freight wagons pulled by several pairs of horses. *The wagons had no driver's seat, so a postilion sat on the left rear horse and held his whip in his right hand.* Seated on the left, the driver preferred that other wagons pass him on the left so that he could be sure to keep clear of the wheels of oncoming wagons.[22] He did that by driving on the right side of the road.[20]
> 
> Right Handed Union goons!


Well that doesn't make sense then, 'cause Henry Ford would've made them rhd just to spite them!


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## WvS4 (Apr 22, 2011)

*Borbet type A help*

Okay so please bare with me as I am a nobbie at this. So I have a MK3.5 Cabrio with coilovers and have done the 5 lug swap. 

So here goes:
I went to a local U-pull it and surprisingly found 3 16x7.5 Borbet type A's on a Jaguar bolt patten 5x4.75 They are in really good shape other than a few scratches. Because there is only 3 should I find a set of 16 x 9 for the back and do the staggered look or would that look really bad because I would need wheel adapters on the front? I'm really confused on the whole situation I really love the wheels... And don't even know where I could go to sell them if they wont work at all for me...Thanks for any responses


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## Techun (Dec 27, 2006)

uh oh

staggered fwd in TCL


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

WvS4 said:


> should I find a set of 16 x 9 for the back and do the staggered look


*Bleep* Does not compute. *Bleep* [/robot voice]

That is not logical. [/Spock]

Car Lounge engineer - ACTIVATE! "Don't do it, son!"

Oh, and don't call yourself a "nobbie". :laugh: :beer:



Techun said:


> uh oh
> 
> staggered fwd in TCL


You're welcome.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

WvS4 said:


> please bare with me as I am a nobbie at this


Dear Penthouse....


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

Surf Green said:


> Dear Penthouse....


:laugh: :laugh: :beer:


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

WvS4 said:


> Okay so please bare with me as I am a nobbie at this. So I have a MK3.5 Cabrio with coilovers and have done the 5 lug swap.
> 
> So here goes:
> I went to a local U-pull it and surprisingly found 3 16x7.5 Borbet type A's on a Jaguar bolt patten 5x4.75 They are in really good shape other than a few scratches. Because there is only 3 should I find a set of 16 x 9 for the back and do the staggered look or would that look really bad because I would need wheel adapters on the front? I'm really confused on the whole situation I really love the wheels... And don't even know where I could go to sell them if they wont work at all for me...Thanks for any responses


I recommend you take a look around the Cabriolet forum here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/forumdisplay.php?152-Cabriolet

The question you're asking is one of opinion, and that will of course vary from person to person.

I don't know what color your car is, whether you have Joey-modded your headlights, and whether you have a boser hood or not (actually that looks like a complete MK4 front clip swap), but with the Borbet Type As, your car would look like this if it were black and had a boser hood with Joey-modded headlights in what looks like a MK4 nose clip:










I don't think it looks right and the body lines of the car are too different of a shape for those wheels, or vice-versa if you like.

In my opinion, those wheels look much better on a MK2:










The lines are very straight on the wheels as they are on the rest of the car, so it just looks better in my opinion. You might not agree, but that is the nature of opinions, everyone is entitled to have their own, even if they aren't the same as others' views.

What I recommend is you have a look through this thread for ideas as to what wheels look good on a MK3.5 Cabriolet: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2460737

Most of the pics seem to be of the MK1 Cabriolet, but there are some MK3.5 in there as well:


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## mk_ultra (Jan 31, 2009)

I know this may vary but how long can a car sit without being driven? Are there any repercussions that can happen if it sits for too long? 

Second question, I had not driven my car in over a month and just recently i started it and let it sit there warming up. The car was ticking audibly for a while. Then after some time the sound began to fade and now it seems like it's back to normal. I hope this is normal. :laugh: . Can anyone explain the reason for the noise?


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

If a car sits long enough, the gas will go bad and the tires will develop flat spots. This obviously depends on how much gas was left in the tank, whether you added any chemicals for it to keep better, how heavy the car is, and the tread softness. A month isn't really that long. That ticking sound that eventually went away was probably either your valvetrain because there hadn't been any oil running through it for some time and/or the fuel injectors from lack of gasoline going through them.


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

mk_ultra said:


> I know this may vary but how long can a car sit without being driven? Are there any repercussions that can happen if it sits for too long?
> 
> Second question, I had not driven my car in over a month and just recently i started it and let it sit there warming up. The car was ticking audibly for a while. Then after some time the sound began to fade and now it seems like it's back to normal. I hope this is normal. :laugh: . Can anyone explain the reason for the noise?


Oil drained from your lifters and the rest of the system after sitting. Starting her up got the oil flowing again and the lifters are back to normal :thumbup:


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## WvS4 (Apr 22, 2011)

*Thanks*

Thanks for the info, Its t-red and I have done nothing to the body of it. Still dont know what i'm gonna do, but for the price of 25$ per rim I couldnt pass them up.....Thank You


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## mk_ultra (Jan 31, 2009)

Thanks for the great responses. :thumbup:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Assle said:


> (actually that looks like a complete MK4 front clip swap)


That is courtesy of VW. The 99.5-02 Cabrios look like a Mk4 from the front, and the rear bumper matches as well. Other than that, i agree with you. Borbets look good on Mk3, not Mk3.5.



mk_ultra said:


> I know this may vary but how long can a car sit without being driven? Are there any repercussions that can happen if it sits for too long?
> 
> Second question, I had not driven my car in over a month and just recently i started it and let it sit there warming up. The car was ticking audibly for a while. Then after some time the sound began to fade and now it seems like it's back to normal. I hope this is normal. :laugh: . Can anyone explain the reason for the noise?


The noise is due to the lifters being empty of oil. The longer they sit, the more they drain. They take some time to fill back up when re-started. 

As for the reprecussions of sitting, cars can sit for a year or so and most likely fire right up (if the battery is ok). Most people are afraid of old gas, but it'll still burn. Just don't drive it long until you can top it off with some fresh fuel. 

After a year or so, rubber starts getting brittle... coolant hoses, suspension. Gas also gets quite watery, and degrades. The oil does break down, but i think that takes many years before it will actually be dangerous (but an oil change is never a bad idea). Coolant should remain fine, but any non-pressure leaks will get crystalized. And the water (if it was from the tap) can corrode the aluminum parts.


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## WvS4 (Apr 22, 2011)

*Pic*







lol..my boyfriend and his friends thought it would be funny to half way strip and drive my car around at H20


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

Assle said:


> What fails on diesel injection pumps that requires for them to be rebuilt? I looked at the anatomy of one and there are A LOT of parts in there.


Anyone?


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## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

Why even bother painting lines in parking lots when most people in traffic blocking size vehicles just park wherever the **** they want to anyway? :banghead:

Though that might actually be an interesting study- to remove all the lines from a parking lot and see how people park without any lines to ignore. :laugh:


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

BRealistic said:


> Though that might actually be an interesting study- to remove all the lines from a parking lot and see how people park without any lines to ignore. :laugh:


This happens when it snows.

And it's worse, because instead of one douche parking like he doesn't care about where the lines are... you've got everyone parking like they don't knwo where the lines are.


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

Assle said:


> Anyone?


I assume you are talking about now old fashioned pump and line mechanical injector pumps.

Without getting too much into the inner workings of a injection pump, it is usually the injection plunger wearing into the bore or sleeve of the pump housing. Think of it as a piston/cylinder wall relationship in an engine, same thing. If the injection plunger doesn't seal against the bore or sleeve, it will not build enough pressure to 'pop' the injector. 

Other common (internal) failures are a lift or feed pump if equipped, metering sleeves, timing rollers wearing out of spec, springs wearing weak, and any number of various o-rings inside the system.

They are actually quite complex for the seemingly simple task they perform. I've been inside a few of them, of various different designs. Don't take one apart that you intend to put back together unless you know what you are doing. :laugh:


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## 302W (Jul 24, 2004)

Currently car shopping, how can you tell if the A/C is functioning 100% if its below freezing outside? I was thinking maybe the condenser, once the engine is hot it'll be cool with the A/C on?


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## Ghost85 (Aug 12, 2006)

302W said:


> Currently car shopping, how can you tell if the A/C is functioning 100% if its below freezing outside? I was thinking maybe the condenser, once the engine is hot it'll be cool with the A/C on?


Turn the heat full blast, once there switch to the A/C.

That's if you don't have some sort of garage to test it in. Or wait till it's 90 degrees out in July like everyone else.:laugh:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Ghost85 said:


> Turn the heat full blast, once there switch to the A/C.


That won't work because the AC works on ambient temp, not engine temp. You could find the ambient temp sensor and warm it up, or, if you know how it's wired, direct jump the AC clutch. Not the best idea though, especially if it's low on coolant or broken, you will destroy the compressor, haha.


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## dtrain88 (Jul 31, 2010)

if it's that big of a deal to you, and you don't trust the owner/dealer, your best bet is to take it to your local A/C shop tell them you are looking at buying the car and have them check the freon (most of the time, not always, if its holding pressure the system will be ok) they can properly jump out the compressor and check everything out. Most places will do this for free or cheap, specially if you've done business with them before


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## 302W (Jul 24, 2004)

Hmm, I don't think that will be practical. I guess I'll watch the compressor just to see if it turns on, hadn't occurred to me as obvious as it is. At least I'll know if the compressor is good and if the freon is low.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

It won't turn on if it's below 35F.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

if it were technically possible, would it be beneficial to apply variable pulley technology to engine accessories, water pumps, etc, so as to avoid extra energy loss? How about on a supercharger, to vary boost as needed? How about electric clutches as well (like with AC)?


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

VDub2625 said:


> if it were technically possible, would it be beneficial to apply variable pulley technology to engine accessories, water pumps, etc, so as to avoid extra energy loss? How about on a supercharger, to vary boost as needed? How about electric clutches as well (like with AC)?


Variable pullies most likely do not yield the gain required to counteract the weight and complexity they would bring. Though many companies are currently using clutches on many of their driven accessories. "smart" alternators work this way, only turning on when necessary, or when coasting, to minimize fuel use and companies are switching things like Power steering and water pumps over to electric components that are controlled by a computer so that they're only on when they need to be and the speed is varied to suit. 

Clutched superchargers aren't new at all. Look at any supercharged M111 powered mercedes (C230K, SLK's etc) or any of their 55K AMG engines, they've all got clutched superchargers for this reason.


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## VWestlife (Sep 29, 2004)

VDub2625 said:


> if it were technically possible, would it be beneficial to apply variable pulley technology to engine accessories, water pumps, etc, so as to avoid extra energy loss? How about on a supercharger, to vary boost as needed? How about electric clutches as well (like with AC)?


Since at least the '90s (Mk3/B4 era), VW has already been using variable displacement A/C compressors. That's why you don't hear a VW's A/C constantly clicking on and off, like other cars do; when you turn on the A/C, the compressor stays on all the time, and varies its displacement as necessary.


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## VWestlife (Sep 29, 2004)

Professor Gascan said:


> Because the electronics have picked up that the transmission is no longer keeping the engine running through momentum at that point. The ECU uses the idle as an "anti-stall," but only if the clutch is pushed in or the car is out of gear. Otherwise it assumes that momentum or throttle is enough to keep the engine turning over.


Actually the ECU's idle management is active all the time, even when in gear. At least on my TDI, if I try to drag the car down to a stop without pressing the clutch, as the engine approaches idle speed, I can feel it tugging against me as it tries to maintain that idle speed by feeding extra fuel.


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

Just changed the oil 600 miles ago, car runs great, no smoke, nothing. There was absolutely nothing that came out in the last oil change.

What in the hell is this?










The car only has 112,000 miles on it. Really? Is it just condensation with the cold then warm weather we've been getting?

I checked it again after I drove it, and it wasn't there, then checked it two hours later and still nothing. Just made me  when I saw that.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

That will happen a lot on the bottom of the oil cap on cars that are driven lightly, not fully warmed up, and then left alone (I suppose an oil change can exacerbate this, as the air sucked in by the draining oil could have been moist?). Moisture in the oil condensating instead of boiling off. Take it for a nice hot drive, and it should go away. If it keeps happening, then it's a leak of some sort.


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## 1.8TRabbit (Nov 15, 2004)

Where will cars go in the future?


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

1.8TRabbit said:


> Where will cars go in the future?


Jokingly: To the same malls and other parking lots they go to now.

Not-jokingly: It seems that cars will go (and are already going) into the direction of removing the driver from the equation. Data has been assessed and the recurring theme in that data is the driver is what's causing car accidents, premature car failure, etc. It is also said that what's seen in luxury cars today will be passed down to all other cars in 7-10 years and what I see in luxury cars today is all sorts of assistance for the driver, almost to the point where the car doesn't really need the driver's input at all. So in the next 10-20 years, I predict a lot more sensors driving our cars for us. Frankly, without getting too Orson Wellian, I feel that a whole lot of us need all the help we can get on the road.


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## compy222 (Apr 8, 2005)

VDub2625 said:


> That will happen a lot on the bottom of the oil cap on cars that are driven lightly, not fully warmed up, and then left alone (I suppose an oil change can exacerbate this, as the air sucked in by the draining oil could have been moist?). Moisture in the oil condensating instead of boiling off. Take it for a nice hot drive, and it should go away. If it keeps happening, then it's a leak of some sort.


its actually really common on Mini Coopers. Many aftermarket catch-cans installed for their PCV system to keep the gunk/moisture out of the oil. 

If you're getting major league chocolate milk and losing coolant...might be time to check that head gasket/do an oil analysis. otherwise, probably nothing to worry about. :thumbup:


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

I've actually got a catch can installed on the car, it may be time to drain it again. And damn, that ish is nasty.

Well that makes me feel better though because I've always taken care of the car and it's yet to ever over heat. 

Like I said, drove it again and it was gone. It was also 23 here the other day, and then today it was nearly 70.


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## TetsuoShima (Nov 30, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Is there any way of finding out how much mileage there is on a swapped motor? My car's motor has been swapped with another JDM H22 but my mechanic said there was no way of finding out the mileage on it. It was his brothers car which he basically gave to my mechanic to try and sell..he said he swapped it for a ~75k H22 but he wasn't really sure about that number. Basically told me there was no real way of finding out which I thought was kind of weird.

So far there have been 0 problems with the motor so I know he did a good job in picking a good one and swapping it correctly. I've been pushing the car really hard too so I highly doubt he was messing around wtih me - plus he's been a family friend for around 5 years now.

Anyway, sorry for the rambling so:

TL;DR: Any way of finding out the mileage in a swapped motor?


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## trigtm (Mar 20, 2006)

TetsuoShima said:


> Is there any way of finding out how much mileage there is on a swapped motor? My car's motor has been swapped with another JDM H22 but my mechanic said there was no way of finding out the mileage on it. It was his brothers car which he basically gave to my mechanic to try and sell..he said he swapped it for a ~75k H22 but he wasn't really sure about that number. Basically told me there was no real way of finding out which I thought was kind of weird.
> 
> So far there have been 0 problems with the motor so I know he did a good job in picking a good one and swapping it correctly. I've been pushing the car really hard too so I highly doubt he was messing around wtih me - plus he's been a family friend for around 5 years now.
> 
> ...


Short of finding data on the VIN and referencing any major accident or totaled dates, you can't just look at an engine and tell the mileage...


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

You can tell old and not old. That's about it.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

VDub2625 said:


> You can tell old and not old. That's about it.


Well, a fresher motor will still have some cross-hatching in the cylinder walls. Once that's gone it's near impossible to tell how many miles are on it.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I would go by corrosion, seal condition, compression, etc. though those can be repaired/hidden. 

If it runs well, I wouldn't worry about it.


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## TetsuoShima (Nov 30, 2008)

VDub2625 said:


> I would go by corrosion, seal condition, compression, etc. though those can be repaired/hidden.
> 
> If it runs well, I wouldn't worry about it.


Yea, just kind of worried when I go to sell it. It has 305k km on the body so im not sure what value to put for the new motor since I really have no way of proving it.


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## mhjett (Oct 16, 2000)

efrie said:


> Just changed the oil 600 miles ago, car runs great, no smoke, nothing. There was absolutely nothing that came out in the last oil change.
> 
> What in the hell is this?
> 
> ...


That looks like condensation. Water condenses inside the crankcase system and will appear as a milky-white substance in the oil. Your car needs to be driven long and hard to clear it out  Probably not a headgasket given what you described.


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

What does it mean to miss a shift, or is it mis-shift? Is it bad for the transmission?


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## Ed52 (May 21, 2001)

In an automobile vs pedestrian collision why is it that sometimes the pedestrian's shoes come off their feet and are lying on the road?


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## jettafan[atic] (Dec 2, 2008)

Ed52 said:


> In an automobile vs pedestrian collision why is it that sometimes the pedestrian's shoes come off their feet and are lying on the road?


I really don't think anything about the shoes getting knocked off is car specific. I mean it can happen when there's any kind of hard hit and your feet fly out fast enough to make the shoes slip off.


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

I can't answer as to why, but after doing the paramedic study, I can say what happens after...

No shoes? Minor injury, one shoe missing? Seriously hurt, and if both shoes are missing they're usually dead.


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## true story (Jun 18, 2007)

Do you still have to push down on the clutch with a push to start car (golf r)? If so, what's the benefit of having a push to start in this scenario? Does it take that much energy to put a key in the ignition?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Um, no. It's so the car can't start in gear and take off.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

barry2952 said:


> Um, no. It's so the car can't start in gear and take off.


:laugh:


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## VarianceVQ (Jun 26, 2005)

Why doesn't Hawaii have a highway system between the different islands? Watching a lot of Dog the Bounty Hunter lately and they always have to fly when going to another island. The islands don't look that far apart to where constructing them would be a huge ordeal (at least between Oahu, Molokai, Lanai and Maui).


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

VarianceVQ said:


> Why doesn't Hawaii have a highway system between the different islands? Watching a lot of Dog the Bounty Hunter lately and they always have to fly when going to another island. The islands don't look that far apart to where constructing them would be a huge ordeal (at least between Oahu, Molokai, Lanai and Maui).


Because volcano.

The islands are simply the tops of old volcanos. New islands were formed as the Earth's crust shifted. In-between the islands the water is too deep for pilings and too far apart for suspension bridges.


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

barry2952 said:


> Because volcano.
> 
> The islands are simply the tops of old volcanos. New islands were formed as the Earth's crust shifted. In-between the islands the water is too deep for pilings and too far apart for suspension bridges.


To add - a quick look at google maps reveals the islands are 20 or more miles apart. That's a heckuva bridge.


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

true story said:


> Do you still have to push down on the clutch with a push to start car (golf r)? If so, what's the benefit of having a push to start in this scenario? Does it take that much energy to put a key in the ignition?


Here is what happens when a car is able to be started while in gear without the clutch held down.

Now imagine the same scenario with a person inside.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

From Brandon Ford:



> After reading many posts of the last few days that were either incomplete or just entirely inaccurate, I decided that it was finally time to set the record straight. The incident involving the Mustang that drove itself, unoccupied, into a body of water, occurred at our dealership. The simple, unquestionable facts of this unfortunate event are as follows:
> • The vehicle was equipped with a remote start system.
> • The system was installed in such a way as to circumvent the factory safety
> systems that would have prevented it from starting in gear.
> ...


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

sjt1985 said:


> Here is what happens when a car is able to be started while in gear without the clutch held down.
> 
> Now imagine the same scenario with a person inside.


 Of note, Viper (and other DEI brands) have a method of remote starting manuals that works kinda like a turbo timer. Much safer, but not bulletproof. But with the way it works, no one will accidentally start the car.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

true story said:


> Do you still have to push down on the clutch with a push to start car (golf r)? If so, what's the benefit of having a push to start in this scenario? Does it take that much energy to put a key in the ignition?


Push to start is just so you don't have to bother with a key. Get near the car, an RFID sensor unlocks the door as soon as you touch the handle. Get in, push a button. No keys needed at all. but of course you have to push the clutch in, same as if you had used a key.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

I see that most of us had no idea what this OP meant.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

sjt1985 said:


> What does it mean to miss a shift, or is it mis-shift? Is it bad for the transmission?


As far as I know, this can mean shifting into the wrong gear (like shifting into 3rd instead of 5th), or messing up your clutch timing/shift speed, and grinding the gears, or generally doing something un-intended during a shift. Short term, I don't think a "mis-shift" can do major damage (remember learning to drive stick?), but if you're a constant gear-jammer, you could run into trouble.


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

MrMook said:


> As far as I know, this can mean shifting into the wrong gear (like shifting into 3rd instead of 5th), or messing up your clutch timing/shift speed, and grinding the gears, or generally doing something un-intended during a shift. Short term, I don't think a "mis-shift" can do major damage (remember learning to drive stick?), but if you're a constant gear-jammer, you could run into trouble.


The miss shift (3rd to 5th) can actually cause serious damage to a motor. If you shift from 4th at redline and miss, you'll toast the engine. Search "Money shift" on any forum for E36's or any time talking about the ZF boxes in E36's and you'll see what I'm talking about.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Ed52 said:


> In an automobile vs pedestrian collision why is it that sometimes the pedestrian's shoes come off their feet and are lying on the road?


mythbusters covered this.

it's possible to get hit so hard your shoes stay put as you get flung from the impact.

check on youtube for the "knock your socks off" episode of mythbusters.


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## Dpaul04 (Jun 10, 2010)

ravera said:


> The miss shift (3rd to 5th) can actually cause serious damage to a motor. If you shift from 4th at redline and miss, you'll toast the engine. Search "Money shift" on any forum for E36's or any time talking about the ZF boxes in E36's and you'll see what I'm talking about.


So I should do 5th, 4th then into third if I want to "Drop shift" and pull at higher speeds?

WTF am I a noob or are you dumb?


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## Fisherson (Dec 22, 2008)

So I apparently have the clutch shudder/chatter issue that is common enough on '01 and '02 Miatas that there is a TSB out on the car but there is a significant presence of people on the internet convinced that even if one replaces the flywheel and clutch the problem may not disappear.


The symptoms are as follows:
Upon taking off in a low gear (first, second at low speed or reverse) the transmission shakes and depending on the torque (if you over-rev it the problem doesn't present but if you apply only adequate torque the problem presents itself) it can be somewhat violent. 
Has anyone had this problem and, if so, what have you done about it?
Is there a fix beyond replacement of the clutch and/or flywheel?

I've been looking at the clutch/flywheel "Happy Meal" provided by Flyin' Miata.
When I get back to Chicago I'm going to have the problem diagnosed before I do anything,
before I order a clutch/flyweel replacement.


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## Bias_Ply (Feb 6, 2010)

Dpaul04 said:


> So I should do 5th, 4th then into third if I want to "Drop shift" and pull at higher speeds?
> 
> WTF am I a noob or are you dumb?


He's saying if you are redlining 4th and accidentally put it back into 3rd you're going to over-rev the engine.

(if you can get it into gear and let the clutch out)


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## imbossay1028 (Jun 15, 2008)

which pedal is the clutch?


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## jettafan[atic] (Dec 2, 2008)

Dpaul04 said:


> So I should do 5th, 4th then into third if I want to "Drop shift" and pull at higher speeds?
> 
> WTF am I a noob or are you dumb?


No need to get all uppity. Right now it sounds like you're asking about downshifting which is not "mis-shifting" at all. 

Say you're at the strip about to run a 1/2 mile: Tree goes green, you dump the clutch at 3,000rpm floor it to redline and upshift to 2nd, same thing going up to third gear, again smooth sailing, you're approachin the finish line and you're paying too much attention to the record time you think you're going to pull as you shift into 5t ****OH **** THAT WAS 3RD!!!!**** Massive explosion, danger to manifold, VTECS escape, people dead etc...

That would be a catastrophic "mis-shift"


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## Sixgear (Mar 25, 2011)

jettafan[atic] said:


> *Tree goes green*


 What is a tree? :laugh::beer: 

Can someone explain dynamic compression ratio and how it is effected by cam timing?


----------



## Dr. Woo (Feb 28, 2003)

VarianceVQ said:


> Why doesn't Hawaii have a highway system between the different islands? Watching a lot of Dog the Bounty Hunter lately and they always have to fly when going to another island. The islands don't look that far apart to where constructing them would be a huge ordeal (at least between Oahu, Molokai, Lanai and Maui).


 There used to be a ferry system, but it was discontinued due to the ferries being an "eyesore" and pollution concerns.


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## Omnilith (Jan 15, 2010)

sjt1985 said:


> Here is what happens when a car is able to be started while in gear without the clutch held down.
> 
> Now imagine the same scenario with a person inside.


 It should also be noted to those not in the know that older cars (80s and older) do not have a starter interlock switch on the clutch pedal. I rather prefer it that way because if the engine has an issue while I'm stuck blocking traffic, I can use the starter motor to pull me to the side of the road.


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

Sixgear said:


> What is a tree?


 From Wikipedia: 



Wikipedia said:


> Races are started electronically by a system known as a Christmas tree. The Christmas tree consists of a column of lights for each driver/lane. In each column, the top two lights are small amber lights (or two halves of an open blue circle split with a bar in the center that lights when the second light has turned on; that form debuted April 15, 2011 at zMax Dragway and became permanent for NHRA National events) [1] connected to light beams on the track, which when broken by the vehicle's front tire(s) indicate that the driver has pre-staged (approximately 7 inches (180 mm) from the starting line) and then staged (at the starting line).[2]
> 
> Below the staging lights are three large amber lights, a green light, and a red light. When both drivers are staged, the tree is activated to start the race, which causes the three large amber lights to illuminate, followed by the green light. There are two standard light sequences: either the three amber lights flash simultaneously, followed 0.4 seconds later by the green light (a Pro tree), or the ambers light in sequence from top to bottom, 0.5 seconds apart, followed 0.5 seconds later by the green light (a Sportsman tree, or full tree). If the front tires leaves from a stage beam (stage and pre-stage lights both turned off) before the green light illuminates, the red light for that driver's lane illuminates instead, indicating disqualification (unless a more serious violation occurs). Once a driver commits a red-light foul (also known as redlighting), the other driver can also commit a foul start by leaving the line too early but still win, having left later. Should both drivers leave after the green light illuminates, the one leaving first is said to have a holeshot advantage.


 


Sixgear said:


> Can someone explain dynamic compression ratio and how it is effected by cam timing?


 Dynamic compression in simple terms is what the compression ratio is at 1 particular moment rather than the static figure, which is what we think of when we read that an engine's compression ratio is some fixed number (for example, 11:1). A more technical explanation is it is the compression ratio at any given time computed from valve position, piston position, piston speed, expansion of air/fuel mix, and combustion chamber volume if the compression was powerful enough to lift the head. 

Dynamic compression is affected by camshaft selection in that valves need to open/close at precisely the right moment to obtain the desired engine performance. If the valves open too soon, maximum energy potential is lost because the piston did not make it to top dead center(or close-enough to it) and the remnants are pushed out to the exhaust. If the valves stay closed too long past the piston being top dead center, exhaust flow is hindered because the piston already started to travel downward and sucked what should have gone out the exhaust down with it. 

Cam timing should never be the sole factor to consider when choosing a camshaft profile. Other factors including lobe separation angle are critical if optimal performance is desired.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Omnilith said:


> It should also be noted to those not in the know that older cars (80s and older) do not have a starter interlock switch on the clutch pedal. I rather prefer it that way because if the engine has an issue while I'm stuck blocking traffic, I can use the starter motor to pull me to the side of the road.


 4WD Toyota pickups still have "clutch-start cancel" buttons so you can crawl along a trail with the starter.


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## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

After you shut a car off, and exhaust still seeps out from the exhaust pipe. Why does that happen?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

RacerrRex said:


> After you shut a car off, and exhaust still seeps out from the exhaust pipe. Why does that happen?


 What you're typically seeing is not exhaust, but vapors from water, a byproduct of combustion. What you're seeing is the moisture in the system evaporating and exiting as a low-temp steam. Carbon monoxide is invisible, so that's not what you're seeing.


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## the flying grape! (Dec 4, 1999)

Expanding hot gas.


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## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

barry2952 said:


> Carbon monoxide is invisible, so that's not what you're seeing.


 Isnt that what im seeing from exhaust systems during winter, though?


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## Sixgear (Mar 25, 2011)

RacerrRex said:


> After you shut a car off, and exhaust still seeps out from the exhaust pipe. Why does that happen?


 Because you still have the exhaust that is in the pipes, and any cylinders that have the exhaust valve open. It has to escape somewhere, and the heat in the cylinders and nearby the engine make the air expand and kind of push the exhaust out. Long story short, there is still pressure in the system and it can't go back into the engine. 

Hope that makes sense.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

RacerrRex said:


> Isnt that what im seeing from exhaust systems during winter, though?


 No, you're seeing water vapor in the winter. Ever notice the water pouring out of the tail pipe? That's condensation from burning dino.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

From Wiki: 



> Carbon monoxide is a toxic gas, but, being colorless, odorless, tasteless, and initially non-irritating, it is very difficult for people to detect.


----------



## tacticalbeaver (Apr 27, 2006)

Why don't half tons come with dual gas tanks any more?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

seftonm said:


> Why don't half tons come with dual gas tanks any more?


 They get better mileage now?


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

barry2952 said:


> They get better mileage now?


 and a 30 gallon tank is more than 250 pounds? just a thought 


insurance question: its just hypothetical question 

Lets say 16+ year old lives at home, but does not drive the household cars. Must he/ she be insured under the parents policy? 
Also, if person gets in car, when he or she is not in the insurance policy, but automobile is insured, insurance still pays because of uninsured driver coverage. 

just hypothetical question me and a couple of friends were discussing


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

71DubBugBug said:


> and a 30 gallon tank is more than 250 pounds? just a thought
> 
> 
> insurance question: its just hypothetical question
> ...


 If I understand you correctly, it's the car that's insured, not the driver. If the 16 year old has a license he would be covered under the family policy, regardless of whether he drove their cars or not. I never, ever, drove my father's car, but I was insured on it.


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

The answer varies state-to-state as insurance liability laws of this nature are not federal. AFAIK here, the 16yo does not have to be on the insurance policy with the parents if the child does not drive the car on a regular basis. The 16yo will be covered by the parents' insurance policy if the parents permitted him/her to borrow the car for some limited one-time purpose. The same also applies if the parent is, say, too inebriated to operate the vehicle, then the 16yo can drive the car and the car who the car is insured to will still be covered. Like all laws, this may have since changed, but that was the law in the Land of Lincoln, last I checked.


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

I think a lot of the reason we don't see two gas tanks anymore is that the frame design has also changed. 

My long bed F350 has a 38 gallon tank, where as the 1996 F150 holds around 36 gallons, but has two tanks. Which also sucks, because it means you have two fuel pumps. 

At the same time, our 1995 Chevy long bed has a 30 gallon tank, but it's a single, and it's also a 1500. 

I like having a large gas tank, but I much prefer the single tank solution, it's cheaper in the long run.


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

71DubBugBug said:


> and a 30 gallon tank is more than 250 pounds? just a thought


 My understanding is that 1/2 ton trucks are held to stricter emissions standards and one of the ways to save on fuel consumption and related emissions is to drop the dual tanks. Aside from the weight of the tank and associated hardware, the fuel inside the tank is quite heavy. Gasoline is 6.073lbs/US Gallon so a spare 35 gallon tank is an additional ~213 pounds of weight. Diesel is even more dense at 6.943lbs/US Gallon, which would add up to an additional ~243 pounds of weight. Going to one gas tank means they saved the weight of the tank itself, the hardware for the additional tank, the weight of the extra fuel, and the weight of the supoorting components for the extra girth from the tank. I would imagine this also impacted how the trucks drove because having just one gas tank means there wasn't as much momentum being tossed around because of the weight savings and no moving liquid moving about back and forth within the tank. Also, IIRC, the way dual tanks work is one has to be depleted before the other is put to use. What this would mean, then, is an incredibly uneven weight distribution as one gets closer to empty while the other sits full.


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## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

Sixgear said:


> Because you still have the exhaust that is in the pipes, and any cylinders that have the exhaust valve open. It has to escape somewhere, and the heat in the cylinders and nearby the engine make the air expand and kind of push the exhaust out. Long story short, there is still pressure in the system and it can't go back into the engine.
> 
> Hope that makes sense.


 Perfect sense, thank you


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

71DubBugBug said:


> insurance question: its just hypothetical question
> 
> Lets say 16+ year old lives at home, but does not drive the household cars. Must he/ she be insured under the parents policy?
> Also, if person gets in car, when he or she is not in the insurance policy, but automobile is insured, insurance still pays because of uninsured driver coverage.
> ...


 I know that all the licensed drivers in a household (in MA) need to be specifically covered, or not. Either they need to be added to their parent's insurance (with the increased premiums), or the parents need to sign a form stating that that child will specifically not operate the vehicle, and if they do, they are not covered. 

Uninsured driver coverage only covers you if the other person is not insured, IIRC, not the other way around.


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## Diamond Dave (Mar 24, 2001)

Assle said:


> The answer varies state-to-state as insurance liability laws of this nature are not federal. AFAIK here, the 16yo does not have to be on the insurance policy with the parents if the child does not drive the car on a regular basis.


 Correct, I think Insurance typically follows the car, not the driver. If the 16yo isn't insured on the car, but gets into an accident, I think you just bend over.


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## Tripicana (Dec 17, 2004)

Omnilith said:


> It should also be noted to those not in the know that older cars (80s and older) do not have a starter interlock switch on the clutch pedal. I rather prefer it that way because if the engine has an issue while I'm stuck blocking traffic, I can use the starter motor to pull me to the side of the road.


 also i've heard that since there is no oil pressure before you start the engine, pushing in the clutch is hard on the thrust bearing. i think its a common problem on some powerstorkes with a supper stiff clutch pressure plate.


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

Tripicana said:


> also i've heard that since there is no oil pressure before you start the engine, pushing in the clutch is hard on the thrust bearing. i think its a common problem on some powerstorkes with a supper stiff clutch pressure plate.


 do retention valves not keep oil pressure going to the crank?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Tripicana said:


> also i've heard that since there is no oil pressure before you start the engine, pushing in the clutch is hard on the thrust bearing. i think its a common problem on some powerstorkes with a supper stiff clutch pressure plate.


 That doesn't make sense... the engine isn't turning, so the thrust bearing isn't doing anything, and if you have the clutch in, there is no oil circulating in the trans anyway.


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## compy222 (Apr 8, 2005)

71DubBugBug said:


> and a 30 gallon tank is more than 250 pounds? just a thought
> 
> 
> insurance question: its just hypothetical question
> ...


 it depends on the states, but i know for a fact in michigan that anyone who 'resides' at your residence who is a relative must be insured on your vehicles - this includes wives, kids, etc.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

compy222 said:


> it depends on the states, but i know for a fact in michigan that anyone who 'resides' at your residence who is a relative must be insured on your vehicles - this includes wives, kids, etc.


 I believe you mean "listed" on the policy as a potential driver. You need to make that information available so that your claim is not rejected. I believe they only go on once they start driver training, though. Back in my mother's time ('40s) you could get a driver's license at 14 in Michingan and 12 in some southern states. I digress. 

When I was 19, in 1971, I bought a '68 Firebird for $1,400. The insurance was $650 a year, a huge amount of money. I was engaged. She suggested I put the car in her name on her parent's insurance for $250 a year. I sold her the car for $1.00 (and other valuable considerations), and she paid $ .04 sales tax on it. I applied the savings to the principal of the loan and was a happy camper, until 2 weeks later. 

Under Michigan insurance law they were required to provide my driver's license and name as a possible driver. She got a notice two weeks later making me an "excluded driver" on my own damn car. Luckily, I had a work truck to drive, as I couldn't risk driving mine. Worse, had I done damage any claim would be denied. 

I had to marry the girl to get my stuff back. As soon as we tied the knot my insurance rates were cut in half. Funny, how that happens. Still have the gal, wish I still had the car.


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

In Arkansas once you're 16, and you get a drivers license it is expected that you have liability to your name. Doesn't have to be to your car, but you have to be on a policy if you want to drive. 

For instance my sister doesn't currently have a car because she doesn't care, and she wrecked her last two, but because she still drives other cars, she is insured on my parents plan. Actually her name is listed under one of my trucks. 

As long as I have insurance, I can drive anyones car, as long as that vehicle is insured to someone. All I need is liability though. 

Our insurance agent is pretty crafty, too. My Jetta and F150 are under my parents policy, whereas I have a business policy for all the other trucks. 

Anyways, I have full coverage on the Jetta (still has Lien), and liability on the Ford F150. There is also a Kia Soul and a 1977 Super Beetle on the policy. 

My sister is 19, she's attached to the Ford F150, I'm insured on the Beetle, my mom is insured under her Kia, and my dad is insured under the Jetta. 

By doing so, the insurance policy went from 1,200 every six months to only 750.


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## Tripicana (Dec 17, 2004)

VDub2625 said:


> That doesn't make sense... the engine isn't turning, so the thrust bearing isn't doing anything, and if you have the clutch in, there is no oil circulating in the trans anyway.


 It's hard on them at startup. When you crank the engine holding the clutch, all that spring pressure presses the crank against the engines thrust bearing.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

That's what it's there for. Got some literature on your contention?


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## Gitcha Sum (May 27, 2008)

Coilovers VS. coils & shocks. Can a car/jeep be setup up decent with a combination of both? 

I have a 97 Wrangler, stock it has 4 coils, and 4 shocks. 
I have Ford truck ton/full size axles. 
The front d60 is the cheaper less desireable unit that the pumpkin is more set to one side than the other. I can still design a 3 link system that cycles decent, and has room to hit the axle tubes, but... I can't really fit a coil bucket on the short side. 
Would using coil overs in the front and coils & shocks in the back (strictly for cost savings) still allow me to dial in a fairly balanced ride? 
Or should I be budgeting/planning on running 4 coilovers...


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## IC AI (Aug 29, 2008)

False starts: in car races (F1, esp) is there a measure to prevent false starts? Like an electronic eye for eye position on the grid, like they have for 1/4 mile races?


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

Each car has a transponder on it, provided by an authorized vendor, as per the FIA rules. 

For drag racing, they have the latter staging beam when a car leaves too soon.


----------



## Golgo-13 (Aug 20, 2003)

in all seriousness... 

why are vehicles so much more expensive in canada than in the us, especially when many of them are made here.


----------



## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

higher average salary in Canada 

to keep the purchasing power equal, they up the price of products


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## 1990redcorradog60 (Mar 31, 2009)

*My dumb question*

I have always been wondering how cars that are on a coiloveer suspension that are tucking a lot. How do they turn? 

Wouldnt there fenders be all f****d up?


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## RatBustard (Jun 15, 2007)

browsing/dreaming of 993's on ebay, and i stumbled across this 993 C2S, and noticed this picture below. what is that black pull-looking-handle in the drivers door jamb about the door latch?


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## GTE77 (Sep 2, 2009)

n0rdicalex. said:


> browsing/dreaming of 993's on ebay, and i stumbled across this 993 C2S, and noticed this picture below. what is that black pull-looking-handle in the drivers door jamb about the door latch?


 Trunk latch


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## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

GTE77 said:


> Trunk latch


 Brilliant place to locate the trunk latch so it's secure in a doors-locked-top-down convertible. Seriously. I love it.


----------



## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

I heard somewhere that engines are most 'efficient' at peak hp (or is it peak torque). What do they mean by efficiency? Fuel efficient (MPG)? Higher power to fuel used ratio?


----------



## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

Can TPMS monitors be easily transferred to new wheels? Do they need new seals / batteries / etc?


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## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

MustacheGT said:


> Can TPMS monitors be easily transferred to new wheels? Do they need new seals / batteries / etc?


As long as it isnt leaking, it should be fine.

Personally i would buy new sensors with new rims just to be safe


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## helement2003 (Aug 3, 2004)

RacerrRex said:


> As long as it isnt leaking, it should be fine.
> 
> Personally i would buy new sensors with new rims just to be safe


Wouldn't it be cheaper just to buy a TPMS rebuild kit?


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

sjt1985 said:


> I heard somewhere that engines are most 'efficient' at peak hp (or is it peak torque). What do they mean by efficiency? Fuel efficient (MPG)? Higher power to fuel used ratio?


That means that they extract the maximum amount of energy from the fuel and turn that into force (torque) while wasting the minimum amount on things like heat, i.e. the closest possible to adiabatic expansion.


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## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

helement2003 said:


> Wouldn't it be cheaper just to buy a TPMS rebuild kit?


Not every style sensor can be rebuilt IIRC, but yeah you're right


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

ravera said:


> That means that they extract the maximum amount of energy from the fuel and turn that into force (torque) while wasting the minimum amount on things like heat, i.e. the closest possible to adiabatic expansion.


So it correlates to fuel efficiency then, right? If I'm going for fuel efficiency while accelerating, should I always pass through the peak torque? If I can cruise at peak torque, should I do that?


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

RacerrRex said:


> As long as it isnt leaking, it should be fine.
> 
> Personally i would buy new sensors with new rims just to be safe


If I buy a new wheel/tire package from TireRack, I'll get new TPMS sensors then. Otherwise, I'll be moving them over.


----------



## TheTimob (Sep 13, 2003)

If you rent (hertz/budget/enterprise/avis) an electric car or a plug-in hybrid such as a Chevrolet Volt, do they charge you a fee to top up the battery?


----------



## lab_rat (Jun 26, 2001)

monoaural said:


> The important thing to mention here, is the pump is on the engine side of the torque converter. Some cars (early saturns among others) have it on the tranny side, so the fluid will get pumped still, for flat towing.


So THATS why little Saturns are such a popular car towed behind so many RVs...

I got a new wrinkle in the brain today. Thanks.:beer:


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## CostcoPizza (Jan 20, 2008)

Ok here's an easy and silly one.

When diesels idle, they make that clack-clack-clack sound. It's pretty fast, is that the RPM?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

mac dre said:


> Ok here's an easy and silly one.
> 
> When diesels idle, they make that clack-clack-clack sound. It's pretty fast, is that the RPM?


Each clack is a cylinder firing. So, 4 of those is one full rotation (on a 4 cylinder). Idle is a surprisingly low rotation speed.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

On the topic of diesels, I can't seem to figure this out:

Diesel fuel needs to be compressed to ignite, and in an engine, it basically self-detonates at the right pressure/temperature. But what energy is used to create that pressure? It seems like a chicken-and-egg scenario, where the diesel can't ignite without some outside power source creating pressure/heat.

Gasoline makes sense to me: Flammable fuel + spark = boom
Diesel less so: magical compression + non-flammable fuel = boom?

What gets a diesel engine going in the first place? An electric starter? If so, does a diesel engine take more energy to start than a gas engine, only to catch up in efficiency when it's running?

I feel dumb :wave:


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## Sepp (Dec 10, 2002)

MrMook said:


> On the topic of diesels, I can't seem to figure this out:
> 
> Diesel fuel needs to be compressed to ignite, and in an engine, it basically self-detonates at the right pressure/temperature. But what energy is used to create that pressure? It seems like a chicken-and-egg scenario, where the diesel can't ignite without some outside power source creating pressure/heat.
> 
> ...


Glow plugs get cars/trucks running. (kinda like spark plugs..sorta) Other times, it's hot starts on Marine engines. A diesel engine has to be pretty warm for it to start, and run correctly.
The magical compression isn't magical, it's true compression in the cylinder, when the piston is moving up to TDC.

I hope that helps, and didn't make things worse for you. :laugh:


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Sepp said:


> Glow plugs get cars/trucks running. (kinda like spark plugs..sorta) Other times, it's hot starts on Marine engines. A diesel engine has to be pretty warm for it to start, and run correctly.
> The magical compression isn't magical, it's true compression in the cylinder, when the piston is moving up to TDC.


But where does that compression come from? When I turn the key, what happens? Something must get that piston moving BEFORE the diesel fuel can ignite, because it's the piston pressure that _allows_ that fuel to ignite. Do the glow plugs themselves create enough heat to ignite whichever piston was left in the highest compression position when the engine last stopped?


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Sepp said:


> Glow plugs get cars/trucks running. (kinda like spark plugs..sorta) Other times, it's hot starts on Marine engines. A diesel engine has to be pretty warm for it to start, and run correctly.
> The magical compression isn't magical, it's true compression in the cylinder, when the piston is moving up to TDC.
> 
> I hope that helps, and didn't make things worse for you. :laugh:


To add, the glow plug doesn't spark off the diesel directly, it just gets the combustion chamber hot enough for it to combust on its own. They pull about 10 amps at 12 volts.

More information on glow plugs:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glowplug


Diesel vehicles also have beefier starters (the higher compression makes it harder to get the engine turning) and typically much larger/higher capacity batteries (for that big honkin' starter + glow plugs (which are essentially little resistance heaters).

A quick bit of Googling reveals that diesel pickup trucks typically have 3-4 kilowatt starters. A TDI VW has a 2 kW one; most gas vehicles are a bit less: .8 kW(Honda Fit) to 1.4 kW (Ford 5.0).


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## Sepp (Dec 10, 2002)

Thanks for expanding Adrew! :beer:


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## feels_road (Jan 27, 2005)

adrew said:


> To add, the glow plug doesn't spark off the diesel directly, it just gets the combustion chamber hot enough for it to combust on its own.


Down to temperatures somewhere around the upper 30s to low 40s or so, the glow plugs are not even needed on many modern small Diesels. The (relatively huge Diesel) compression ratio itself raises _both_ density and temperature - sufficient to start ignition. I only wait a second for my glow plug light when it's below ~40-45F.


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## Shmi (Mar 25, 2009)

adrew said:


> Diesel vehicles also have beefier starters


I think this is the info Mook was after, not glow plugs or general combustion, but just what enables the motor to even turn to move the piston at all. He was asking what gets the motor turning in order to even achieve compression for diesel combustion. The starter is what gets the motor turning, same as in gas motors except gas motors use spark plugs for combustion.

So really, in a diesel the starter actually leads to combustion thru compression, whereas in gas motors the starter turns the motor, but the spark plug is what really creates the combustion. 

Is that what you were looking for?



> What gets a diesel engine going in the first place? An electric starter? If so, does a diesel engine take more energy to start than a gas engine


Yes to a stronger starter, but not sure how much less efficient diesel starters are. The stronger starter turns the engine and activates the fuel pump, fuel is sprayed in, and then boom.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Why do diesel truck drivers leave their trucks running while in restaurants eating meals? I see utility truck drivers do this all the time. Seems fuel inefficient to me. I can understand if a refrigeration unit came into play, but on a bucket truck? Mine are gas powered, so I don't have any experience with diesel.


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## HaterSlayer (Oct 19, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Why do cars have idle creeps?


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Shmi said:


> So really, in a diesel the starter actually leads to combustion thru compression, whereas in gas motors the starter turns the motor, but the spark plug is what really creates the combustion.
> 
> Is that what you were looking for?


Yes, that explains it, in practice.
The theory, though, is still confusing me. How can a diesel engine be so much more efficient, when it seems to take so much more energy to even make the fuel ignitable in the first place. It almost seems like perpetual motion, only in reverse. Each piston requires another piston to have already fired in order to achieve the necessary compression to fire itself. And that chain all begins with an electric starter and a warm bulb?

I may be underestimating (or misunderstanding) the principles of a gasoline engine as well. Once the motor is turning, it seems relatively easy to keep it going by exploding fuel with a minor _electric_ input (spark plug), whereas a diesel needs to _mechanically_ compress the fuel before it can ignite. That just seems like so much more energy for the "same" result of sending a piston back down the cylinder via explosion.


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

MrMook said:


> Yes, that explains it, in practice.
> The theory, though, is still confusing me. How can a diesel engine be so much more efficient, when it seems to take so much more energy to even make the fuel ignitable in the first place. It almost seems like perpetual motion, only in reverse. Each piston requires another piston to have already fired in order to achieve the necessary compression to fire itself. And that chain all begins with an electric starter and a warm bulb?
> 
> I may be underestimating (or misunderstanding) the principles of a gasoline engine as well. Once the motor is turning, it seems relatively easy to keep it going by exploding fuel with a minor _electric_ input (spark plug), whereas a diesel needs to _mechanically_ compress the fuel before it can ignite. That just seems like so much more energy for the "same" result of sending a piston back down the cylinder via explosion.


From an (extremely) high level, it works because there is much, much more energy (heat) in diesel fuel than gasoline. That is, for a given volume of both, diesel will produce more heat energy, for longer, than the gas.

As far as the firing operation, you're simply over thinking it. As the air gets compressed by the piston, it gets very hot. Hot enough to light off the fuel when it gets injected. Remember, that unlike a gas engine, diesel fuel is not injected until the timing is correct, similar to how an ignition system is timed in a gasoline car. In modern engines, there can actually be multiple (sometimes up to 7-8 injections) per power cycle. 

That's pretty much it. Its not perpetual motion, if it were, they wouldn't work. :beer:


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## Techun (Dec 27, 2006)

MrMook said:


> Yes, that explains it, in practice.
> The theory, though, is still confusing me. How can a diesel engine be so much more efficient, when it seems to take so much more energy to even make the fuel ignitable in the first place. It almost seems like perpetual motion, only in reverse. Each piston requires another piston to have already fired in order to achieve the necessary compression to fire itself. And that chain all begins with an electric starter and a warm bulb?
> 
> I may be underestimating (or misunderstanding) the principles of a gasoline engine as well. Once the motor is turning, it seems relatively easy to keep it going by exploding fuel with a minor _electric_ input (spark plug), whereas a diesel needs to _mechanically_ compress the fuel before it can ignite. That just seems like so much more energy for the "same" result of sending a piston back down the cylinder via explosion.


gasoline engines work the same way, compressing the a/f mixture. The diesel engine just has a high enough ratio to blow it up, the gas one (usually....) needs an additional spark to set it off.

It's not perpetual motion since you're dumping lots of energy (fuel) in to make it work. Each explosion has more than enough power to compress the next one. It's not perpetual motion, energy is wasted in terms of heat, noise, vibration, etc.


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## dtrain88 (Jul 31, 2010)

barry2952 said:


> Why do diesel truck drivers leave their trucks running while in restaurants eating meals? I see utility truck drivers do this all the time. Seems fuel inefficient to me. I can understand if a refrigeration unit came into play, but on a bucket truck? Mine are gas powered, so I don't have any experience with diesel.


I asked a buddy of mine that drove tow trucks and he said it was a combination of (at least for tow trucks) being able to jump in and take off faster, and that it used less full to leave it idling for 30 minutes than to start the engine (both of these factors are even more important in cold weather).

As far as the refrigeration units, they usuall have their own engine/power plant


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

MrMook said:


> when it seems to take so much more energy to even make the fuel ignitable in the first place.


The higher compression is part of what makes the ignition event more efficient. It's a thermodynamic thing that lead me into electrical engineering instead of mechanical. So don't ask me to explain it. 

But as an aside, the higher compression on it's own is only half of the rotation. On the other half, in the absence of fuel, that compression is released, and the net loss is only the friction and any compression heat absorbed by the engine parts. You're not losing all the energy used to compress.

There's a misconception that engine braking is so much higher in diesels, but for the most part, it's not that much more. And due to the fact that diesels run higher gearing, the effective engine braking at speed is probably less than that of a gas car.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Thanks everyone! It makes a lot more sense now. :beer:


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

dtrain88 said:


> and that it used less full to leave it idling for 30 minutes than to start the engine


This may be true with 1960's era diesels from a dead cold start, but is certainly not true for modern diesels. Especially smaller ones in tow trucks and such.

For really small diesel engines, even though fuel use at idle is miniscule... I will shut mine off if I get to a "lunch light" right when I see it turn red. I don't like idling for more than 15 seconds. (I love count down crosswalk timers for this reason as well.)

On OTR trucks without AuxPowerUnits, the idling engine often provides power/ac/etc. to the sleeping driver. There are mandates to outfit trucks with APUs to prevent idling, and IMO, they're good ideas.


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## Guru32 (Jan 16, 2012)

*Never could figure this out!*

So you are in an automatic car on a hill. Car is in drive facing uphill, you take your foot off the brake, and the car will sit in the same spot in drive until you give it gas and move forward. What is slipping, or allowing you to sit in one spot?:screwy:


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## ktk (Jun 29, 2009)

The two main reasons diesels are generally more efficicent than compariable gasoline engines are:

*1) Geometric compression ratio*

Diesels have a much higher static compression ratios (14:1 up to 24+:1) than gasoline ( 8:1 to 13:1). Higher compression ratios are required because it is this compression that makes the heat that ignites the diesel when it is injected. Without getting into the Thermodynamics of it, suffice to say, up to a point of diminishing returns, a higher compression ratio will increase efficiency of extracting combustion energy into crankshaft motion.

*2) A/F ratio's*

Since a spark and flame front gasoline style combustion is not being used, there is no need for diesels to operate at a Air/Fuel ratio right near stoichiometric 14.7:1 like a gasoline engine. Diesel can auto-ignite at very lean A/F's. normal operating range of a diesel would be 17:1 up to 40+:1 compared to typical gasoline 11:1 to 16:1 range. Leaner operation requires less fuel and diesels can operate very lean at low loads.

In addition power/torque output of a diesel is controlled by how much fuel is injected (gas pedal literally connected to fuel pump in some cases). The engine has as much air as it wants. Unlike a gasoline engine which is air throttled (huge inefficiency) and fuel is added to match how much air there is.


*Starting of Diesel Engines*

Glow plugs are an old technology that is no longer a requirement in modern high pressure common rail diesel engines. Starting a diesel engine when ambient air temperatures are very low is still a tricky proposition, so this is a simplification. But in essence the mechanism is this:

1) Powerful starter motor cranks the engine over
2) High compression ratio creates the required heat in the combustion chamber for autoignition to occur
3) fuel is injected and autoignites starting combustion


Internal Combustion Engines are my specialty (engineer), if you guys have any questions on modern engine combustion or performance I'll do my best to answer! :thumbup:


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## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

i don't think there is ever actually a point where thermodynamically, a higher compression ratio will hurt power and efficiency, but design considerations limit it. namely pre-det, but also geometry. 

then again, its been a while since i took termo. correct me if i am wrong.


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## ktk (Jun 29, 2009)

cockerpunk said:


> i don't think there is ever actually a point where thermodynamically, a higher compression ratio will hurt power and efficiency, but design considerations limit it. namely pre-det, but also geometry.
> 
> then again, its been a while since i took termo. correct me if i am wrong.


From a purely theoretical perspective yes higher compression ratios will be more efficent. But in reality higher compression ratios mean higher peak cylinder pressures, which means beefer heavier pistons and rods, more rotating weight, more costs, lower RPM limits etc etc. Practical concerns such as these quickly supersede the benefits of compression ratio as you starting heading higher than about 25:1.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Techun said:


> gasoline engines work the same way, compressing the a/f mixture. The diesel engine just has a high enough ratio to blow it up, the gas one (usually....) needs an additional spark to set it off.


Yep. As alluded to above, gas cars can do it, too (though it is almost always unintentional and undesirable). You have probably heard an old car knocking and continuing to run half heartedly for a bit after the owner shuts it off. This is actually called "dieseling" since the leftover fuel in the carburetor gets pulled in and ignited by hot spots in the combustion chamber -- the car will run on its own like a diesel until all of the excess fuel is burned of. 

It can also happen when the engine is running. If an engine has lots of carbon deposits it can effectively make the combustion chamber smaller and raise the engine's compression ratio. The higher compression ratio will cause the engine to run a bit "hotter" and to compress the fuel/air mix more than originally intended, which can cause problems like knocking and pinging on low octane gas when the fuel ignites unexpectedly.

This is why performance cars with high compression ratios require high octane gas — if you use regular gas in them the fuel will ignite early and you will get potentially engine-damaging knocking and pinging unless the computer is smart enough to pull things back. This is also why many older engines (with deposits) run better and have less knocking/pinging after switching to high octane gas. Higher octane doesn't have more energy in it; it just inhibits premature combustion which allows greater compression. Lower octane gas actually ignites more easily.

Contrasting all of that, several automakers have also been doing on-again off-again research on HCCI engines. They are gasoline engines that can switch between compression ignition (like a diesel) for high efficiency at part load and spark ignition like a traditional gasoline engine when full performance is needed. I haven't heard anything about it in a while (I think emissions issues are most of the problem) but it is interesting technology.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Homogeneous_charge_compression_ignition


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## spitfirevr6 (Jul 15, 2007)

Guru32 said:


> So you are in an automatic car on a hill. Car is in drive facing uphill, you take your foot off the brake, and the car will sit in the same spot in drive until you give it gas and move forward. What is slipping, or allowing you to sit in one spot?:screwy:


im not sure but i think that would be your torque converter slipping just like it would do if your were not on a hill.


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## compy222 (Apr 8, 2005)

adrew said:


> To add, the glow plug doesn't spark off the diesel directly, it just gets the combustion chamber hot enough for it to combust on its own. They pull about 10 amps at 12 volts.
> 
> More information on glow plugs:
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glowplug
> ...


also why it was and sometimes is still common to see more than one battery in a diesel. the mid-90's chevy's had two batteries as i recall.


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## compy222 (Apr 8, 2005)

Guru32 said:


> So you are in an automatic car on a hill. Car is in drive facing uphill, you take your foot off the brake, and the car will sit in the same spot in drive until you give it gas and move forward. What is slipping, or allowing you to sit in one spot?:screwy:


some cars have hill-holder systems. 

we just had a thread about this - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ssist-hill-holder-clutch.-What-cars-have-this

eace:


----------



## ktk (Jun 29, 2009)

spitfirevr6 said:


> im not sure but i think that would be your torque converter slipping just like it would do if your were not on a hill.


Yup this is correct. The torque converter (for those that don't know) is a fluid coupling. Meaning while its unlocked there is no mechanical connection between the engine and the transmission/wheels. 

Simplifying for ease of understanding, the input shaft of the torque converter spins at the crankshaft speed, and the output shaft of the converter is connected to the transmission.
Besides allowing the car to stop without stalling the engine, the design of the torque converter allows high input shaft speed (from the crank) to be reduced to lower output shaft speed with higher torque instead. This speed reducing torque multiplying effect is what:

1) Makes automatic cars great at launching from a stop
2) Holds an automatic car from sliding backwards down a hill like a manual car would
3) Makes an automatic car creep forward at idle

This all sounds great right, but physics is a B. The downside of a torque converter is that anytime it is multiplying torque (not locked) it is wasting a certain amount of power stirring the transmission fluid inside the converter around and heating it up. This inefficiency was the main reason automatics were rated as slightly less fuel efficient than their identical manual transmission counterparts. Modern automatic cars are designed to lockup their converters as quickly as is reasonably possible after the car has started moving. In doing so it minimizes the time the torque converter is slipping and thus minimizes that loss of efficiency. Once a converter is locked, it is a full mechanical coupling from engine through to transmission, just like a manual car that is in gear.


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## Mr. Clarkson (Jul 24, 2008)

Guru32 said:


> So you are in an automatic car on a hill. Car is in drive facing uphill, you take your foot off the brake, and the car will sit in the same spot in drive until you give it gas and move forward. What is slipping, or allowing you to sit in one spot?:screwy:


Fluid coupling, how does it work


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Imagine two cereal bowls with vanes like a jet plane. The blades are facing in the opposite direction on each half, facing each other. Now imagine that both bowls are immersed in oil. Now imagine that you can turn the one on the left so fast that the oil pushed out of the blades will have enough force to turn the vanes on the other half. That's a fluid coupling you might be familiar with. That's how a torque converter works.

There are other types of fluid couplings. The commonality is that there is no physical contact between halves, except the oil.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

ktk said:


> This all sounds great right, but physics is a B. The downside of a torque converter is that anytime it is multiplying torque (not locked) it is wasting a certain amount of power stirring the transmission fluid inside the converter around and heating it up. This inefficiency was the main reason automatics were rated as slightly less fuel efficient than their identical manual transmission counterparts. Modern automatic cars are designed to lockup their converters as quickly as is reasonably possible after the car has started moving. In doing so it minimizes the time the torque converter is slipping and thus minimizes that loss of efficiency. Once a converter is locked, it is a full mechanical coupling from engine through to transmission, just like a manual car that is in gear.


The new Mazda transmissions are sort of a hybrid between a torque converter and dual clutch automatic:



Autoblog said:


> Frustrated with the inefficiency of a traditional torque converter at high speeds, and unwilling to accept the jerkiness of a dual-clutch system at lower speeds, Mazda designed what it feels is the best of both worlds.
> 
> Its new Skyactiv-Drive automatic uses a torque converter below five mph for a smooth launch, However, at higher speeds the transmission uses a wet, multi-plate clutch just like a dual-clutch transmission does. This was not simple, and it requires a complete redesign of the torque converter – but since it only works at less than five miles per hour, it is smaller than a traditional unit (Mazda says its new transmission is seven percent better in fuel economy than its predecessor and more efficient than a dual-clutch or continuously-variable transmission). Mazda3 Skyactiv models with the new six-speed automatic transmission earn 28 mpg city and hit the all-important 40 mpg number on the highway.


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## Mr. Clarkson (Jul 24, 2008)

barry2952 said:


> That's a fluid coupling you might be familiar with.


Yes. Cereal bowls immersed in oil is a system I'm intimately familiar with.


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## AIRider (Aug 7, 2001)

What is the estimate number of moving parts at any given time a car is driven. 

Including everything, from tires, bearings, pistons, speedo gauges, radio knob, steering wheel, etc...


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## Mr. Clarkson (Jul 24, 2008)

AIRider said:


> What is the estimate number of moving parts at any given time a car is driven.
> 
> Including everything, from tires, bearings, pistons, speedo gauges, radio knob, steering wheel, etc...


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Why do some tires sound like they're made of goo? Especially when low, but certain brands/kinds seem to do it all the time.


----------



## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

^ I hear that (literally)


Here's one: I'm replacing struts in an '04 530i and there is one for the left and one for the right. Look IDENTICAL but they have different part numbers. Looked online and saw other models like this. (And when you search a specific number it comes back saying something like "E60 Right Front Strut Ass'y.) Anyone know what the difference could possibly be?


----------



## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

what is the purpose of these deflectors(?) on the hood?


----------



## Shmi (Mar 25, 2009)

A.Wilder said:


> what is the purpose of these deflectors(?) on the hood?
> 
> JapeneseCopCarsRock.jpg



I heard on another forum a while back that they were displays for HUDs. Information is projected onto them so cops don't have to continually look down. Not sure if this is accurate as there was never a source provided.


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## Egz (May 30, 2002)

Okay, stupid question.

Some engine items work on a vacuum, like manifold runners. But after you add a turbocharger to a NA engine, how do those still work? Wouldn't those items be seeing a positive pressure instead of a vacuum?


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## Uberod (May 12, 2008)

*Redline for RPMs of engine.*

How and what used to determine the redline of an engine? 

While some engines sound strained going anywhere close to the Redline, others like my VW 2.0T seem like it could go well past Redline and be fine? Some rev-limiters even kick in well above redline. 

For some reason, I thought that when an engine stops creating maximum HP/TQ and being efficient doing so--should be the marker for the Redline--but all of the redlines I'm aware of hit at well past the point where max HP and Torque are made.


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## zeroluxxx (Sep 6, 2005)

cityjohn said:


> ^ I hear that (literally)
> 
> 
> Here's one: I'm replacing struts in an '04 530i and there is one for the left and one for the right. Look IDENTICAL but they have different part numbers. Looked online and saw other models like this. (And when you search a specific number it comes back saying something like "E60 Right Front Strut Ass'y.) Anyone know what the difference could possibly be?


a lot of times they are identical save for a random tab or bracket welded on a particular side. the brackets are commonly used to hold wheel speed sensor wires (for ABS systems) or to hold brake lines.


----------



## Ghost85 (Aug 12, 2006)

Egz said:


> Okay, stupid question.
> 
> Some engine items work on a vacuum, like manifold runners. But after you add a turbocharger to a NA engine, how do those still work? Wouldn't those items be seeing a positive pressure instead of a vacuum?


They work but not quite as well, due to the loss of vacuum. 

Though ATM I'm quite inebriated as it's a Saturday.:beer:


----------



## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

Or sway bar link mounts. BMW does like to attach the bar links to the struts.

As to the E60 struts:
the difference is subtle, but there. 
I had to look in ETK to refresh my memory on this, but...
The difference is in the clocking of the spring perch, relative to the locating pin on the 'inside' of the tube.


----------



## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

^ Thanks zeroluxxx and cuppie!

I hadn't realized that, but it does make sense.


----------



## JeffIsLax (Mar 26, 2005)

Egz said:


> Okay, stupid question.
> 
> Some engine items work on a vacuum, like manifold runners. But after you add a turbocharger to a NA engine, how do those still work? Wouldn't those items be seeing a positive pressure instead of a vacuum?


The components that need to work, like the brake booster, have a check valve installed on the vacuum line so that when manifold pressure goes positive, there is still a small but usable vacuum left. Some cars use a vacuum pump or vacuum reservoir in conjunction with those check valves so that the reserve vacuum is larger. That's my understanding, at least.


----------



## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

Uberod said:


> How and what used to determine the redline of an engine?


Redline is decided first based on mechanical ability and then influenced by marketing where necessary. 

Mechanical ability is derived from the specs for the rotating assembly, block, valvetrain, cooling/lubrication abilities, etc. as well as where volumetric efficiency is still acceptably-high (let's say if peak VE is 80%, then redline can go as far as to where the VE is 65%). 

I'm sure you've seen the same engine have a different redline because of the application it is being used in and that's really the marketing aspect. 

It might be decided that the highest-possible redline is what will help the car's success. If the minimum VE of 65% is at 6,900rpm, then setting actual redline to 7,000 makes sense because that's a round number and is easier to sell. Considering the VE is just one aspect, longevity is another. If mechanical testing shows that an engine with a 6,000rpm redline lasted a simulated lifespan of 500,000 miles but the same engine with a 6,500rpm redline only lasted to 200,000 simulated miles, it would then need to be decided if the car needs to appeal to an audience more interested in longevity or performance.


----------



## KeiCar (Jul 23, 2002)

How do motorcycle engines make so much power despite their small size? 

The latest Kawasaki ZX-14 puts out over 200BHP and there are others I can't think of right now that put out a lot more then that. I haven't found an actual spec on that engine but I did read an article back in october 11' that it was making around 205 at the crank Crazy!

Its totally ridiculous but I guess thats part of its charm. Do you think the government may ever pass legislation prohibiting these crazy powerful bikes from getting more powerful in each iteration? Kind of like the Japanese gentlemen's agreement which is no longer enforced?


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

KeiCar said:


> How do motorcycle engines make so much power despite their small size?
> 
> The latest Kawasaki ZX-14 puts out over 200BHP and there are others I can't think of right now that put out a lot more then that. I haven't found an actual spec on that engine but I did read an article back in october 11' that it was making around 205 at the crank Crazy!?


They rev to the moon. Looks like that ZX-14 goes to ~11k RPM. They also use "under-square" bore/stroke which enables the high redline (above Kawasaki is 84mm bore x 65mm stroke). Most high-revving cars are square (like 86x86) and most torquey cars are over-square (stroke is larger than bore). That's why diesels and truck engines typically have long stroke/lots of torque/low redlines.

Due to the short stroke, the ZX-14 makes 114 lb-ft -- a lot for a motorcycle but not as much as you would expect from a typical car engine with 200 hp. Still, it is pretty impressive for a NA 1.4 liter engine

Going to the extreme, the Honda CBR250 is a 250cc four-cylinder that revs to 19,000 RPM. It makes about 45 horsepower, which is pretty crazy. Scaled up that means it is making 180 horsepower per liter!


----------



## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

Assle said:


> Redline is decided first based on mechanical ability and then influenced by marketing where necessary.


What is the first part to fail upon over revving? Rods? Pistons?


----------



## KeiCar (Jul 23, 2002)

adrew said:


> Going to the extreme, the Honda CBR250 is a 250cc four-cylinder that revs to 19,000 RPM. It makes about 45 horsepower, which is pretty crazy. Scaled up that means it is making 180 horsepower per liter!


Thanks, but I am FULLY aware of the awesomeness of the CBR250. That bike is my holy-grail, I like small bikes and high revving things... so its a match made in heaven. I'll import one someday.


----------



## Bias_Ply (Feb 6, 2010)

Bias_Ply said:


> what is the difference in driving a classic Ferrari at high speeds with the windows up or down?
> 
> I have read magazines reference this a few times.


 certainly some Viergang Fuchs wannabe type can tell me the answer to this...


----------



## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

sjt1985 said:


> What is the first part to fail upon over revving? Rods? Pistons?


 Depends on the engine, and how severe the over-rev. 

Example: BMW S52 engine (E36 M3.) 
Over-revs on that motor (caused by wrong-gear downshifts - e.g. 2nd instead of 4th, or 1st instead of 3rd) typically results in, oh, 24 bent valves. 
Why? The engine speed exceeds the valve springs' ability to close the valves (IOW, valve float.) 
And, they'll float enough to be quite open, when the pistons hit TDC.

I've seen quite a few of those in my 11+ years at my dealership. Never damage to the bottom end.

OTOH, car xx with engine yy might put a rod (or several) through the block. But, that kind of failure is more commonly associated with extended running of the engine at speeds at (or above) its rated max speed.
Example: a friend of mine races Formula Vee. More than once, he's had a, ah, catastrophic engine failure on the track (small end of rod breaks, saws engine in two.) Why? Little VW flat-four needs careful build and TLC to survive running flat-out on track. Tiny fault = kaBOOM on back straight. :laugh:


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

Shmi said:


> I heard on another forum a while back that they were displays for HUDs. Information is projected onto them so cops don't have to continually look down. Not sure if this is accurate as there was never a source provided.


That sounds cool, but i don't believe it. It looks more like a wind deflector, i'm just wondering what they are trying to deflect? :laugh:










there is nothing projecting onto the screen, it would have to be on the hood projecting up and the angles look like they wouldn't work as a hud.


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## ktk (Jun 29, 2009)

The crazy hood deflector can really only be one thing. A wind deflector. 

I don't know the exact reason they are needed, but it looks like from an aerodynamic perspective, they are designed to deflect air/bugs/light debris over the windshield and over the light bar. Perhaps it allows these "high speed" police cars to do high speeds without the wind tearing their light bars off? The light bars themselves don't look very aerodynamic, maybe the hood deflector is designed to deflect air over it?


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

that makes more sense. :thumbup:


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

VDub2625 said:


> Why do some tires sound like they're made of goo? Especially when low, but certain brands/kinds seem to do it all the time.


Please?


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

sjt1985 said:


> What is the first part to fail upon over revving? Rods? Pistons?


The first thing to go on a typical engine is the valvetrain, even in high-performance applications. Reason for this is the valve springs are made of relatively-thin metal that can flex quite easily with even a brief period of excessive movement. Furthermore, because the springs move so many times even during low engine speeds, they are prone to failure compared to other parts. 

The next to fail is the bearing on the big end of the connecting rod (the part that goes around the crankshaft). As with the valve spring, the big end bearings (either on the rod or the cap) are always under stress and heat from the constant rotation of the crankshaft. In racing applications, the bearing clearance specifications are extremely tight, and thus leave very little room for error, resulting in bearing failures that are far more common than they are in street applications.

For both the valvetrain and rotating assembly, oil movement is extremely critical. The oil serves as both lubrication and cooling for the mechanical parts. The oil galley ports are extremely small and strategically-placed for aiding in the distribution of oil. In some racing applications, it is common practice to block off certain ports to keep the oil distribution biased to one side of the engine as opposed to the other. Too many people unfortunately have the work done without accounting for certain factors and this results in oil starvation that in turn causes failure of the mechanical components.


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## 3 Money Pits (Jan 13, 2006)

ktk said:


> The crazy hood deflector can really only be one thing. A wind deflector.
> 
> I don't know the exact reason they are needed, but it looks like from an aerodynamic perspective, they are designed to deflect air/bugs/light debris over the windshield and over the light bar. Perhaps it allows these "high speed" police cars to do high speeds without the wind tearing their light bars off? The light bars themselves don't look very aerodynamic, maybe the hood deflector is designed to deflect air over it?


That's exactly what they're for. Shoots the air up and over the lightbar, reducing drag. I distinctly remember reading an article about them in a car mag (or one of my dad's cop mags) many years ago.


----------



## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

VDub2625 said:


> Why do some tires sound like they're made of goo? Especially when low, but certain brands/kinds seem to do it all the time. Please?



Maybe it's the models that have low UTQG treadwear grades


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## Diamond Dave (Mar 24, 2001)

A.Wilder said:


> what is the purpose of these deflectors(?) on the hood?
> 
> R34 GTR police interceptor with crazy bug shield


If you notice, in all the pictures with those deflectors, the occupants are wearing helmets. Considering Nissan had HUD in the 1991 240sx on the windshield and the fact that you can buy HUD displays that stick on your windshield on the inside, those are merely debris or bug deflectors.



VDub2625 said:


> Why do some tires sound like they're made of goo? Especially when low, but certain brands/kinds seem to do it all the time.


The sounds _you_ hear are subjective to your auditory response and processing.

However, tires make different sounds primarily due to tread design and tread compound hardness.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Diamond Dave said:


> The sounds _you_ hear are subjective to your auditory response and processing.
> 
> However, tires make different sounds primarily due to tread design and tread compound hardness.


You sound like a hoot at parties.


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## crocodile jones (Feb 16, 2005)

Not sure if it's been asked. Why do they use oil filter cartidges (which cost a lot more :banghead on most
German cars?
And why they don't recommend the brake rotor's to be machined (turned)?


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## GahannaKid (May 24, 2004)

VDub2625 said:


> You sound like a hoot at parties.


But he'd be a correct hoot!


----------



## compy222 (Apr 8, 2005)

crocodile jones said:


> Not sure if it's been asked. Why do they use oil filter cartidges (which cost a lot more :banghead on most
> German cars?
> And why they don't recommend the brake rotor's to be machined (turned)?


for rotors it has to do with how much material is left on the rotor. as you 'turn' a rotor, you're actually machining off a very fine layer of metal. this in turn makes the rotor thinner. thinner rotors have less mass, heat up more quickly, and will also be more prone to warping (which is probably why you got them turned in the first place). given the low cost of many aftermarket rotor options, its usually cheaper to buy rotors than expensive pads...my miata had 18 dollar rotors. it was cheaper to replace rotors as very hard pads ate through them instead of the other way around. :laugh:

many cars use filter type cartridges, including most newer GM products. there are benefits to both the traditional spin-on metal cartridge and just the filter element. the cartridge filter makes less waste, but the spin-on type are usually a bit less messy to change as the oil is more contained. it really doesn't matter...in fact, i bet you could even find a conversion kit to change your car from one to the other.


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## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

Diamond Dave said:


> The sounds _you_ hear are subjective to your auditory response and processing.
> 
> However, tires make different sounds primarily due to tread design and tread compound hardness.





VDub2625 said:


> You sound like a hoot at parties.





GahannaKid said:


> But he'd be a correct hoot!



Just imagine _"subjective to auditory response and processing and tread compound hardness"_ after a good helium balloon inhale.


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## feels_road (Jan 27, 2005)

VDub2625 said:


> You sound like a hoot at parties.


The trick is to quickly switch the conversation to other types of rubber and noises.


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## therichisgood (Mar 7, 2004)

I live in Tokyo, I'll ask about the deflector things on the cars and report back. :thumbup:


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## Jeisin (Aug 16, 2008)

New subframe new wheel bearings rotors.and.brakes fronts.and rear.. And it still feels woobly around 70 mph wheels are balanced and.not bent... I was thinking hub rings anyone have any other ideas

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Jeisin said:


> New subframe new wheel bearings rotors.and.brakes fronts.and rear.. And it still feels woobly around 70 mph wheels are balanced and.not bent... I was thinking hub rings anyone have any other ideas
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


is it the jetta in your info?

what shape are your bushings in?

also, if you're not running OE wheels, what _are_ you running?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Hub rings? Only if you have aftermarket wheels. new subframe sounds really aggressive too. 

Axles? Maybe a strut or spring worn to a certian harmonic vibration?


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## Pf3il (Dec 28, 2004)

blown shock/strut


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## mobile363 (Oct 14, 2003)

Can i skip gears when im shifting so long as i match revs? Ive always had 5 speeds which is fine, but 6 gears seem like too many to row during casual driving. I want to go, say, 1 - 2 - 4 - 6. Can i do that? I assume i can because the dash computer will often tell me to shift into 6th if i am in 3rd or 4th at higher rpm. 

and same goes for downshifting?


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

mobile363 said:


> Can i skip gears when im shifting so long as i match revs? Ive always had 5 speeds which is fine, but 6 gears seem like too many to row during casual driving. I want to go, say, 1 - 2 - 4 - 6. Can i do that? I assume i can because the dash computer will often tell me to shift into 6th if i am in 3rd or 4th at higher rpm.
> 
> and same goes for downshifting?


Of course.


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## NotFast (Mar 20, 2002)

mobile363 said:


> Can i skip gears when im shifting so long as i match revs? Ive always had 5 speeds which is fine, but 6 gears seem like too many to row during casual driving. I want to go, say, 1 - 2 - 4 - 6. Can i do that? I assume i can because the dash computer will often tell me to shift into 6th if i am in 3rd or 4th at higher rpm.
> 
> and same goes for downshifting?


As long as you're not slipping the clutch, you should be fine skipping. GM's manual V8 cars force you do this under certain circumstances (called "skip shift" - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shift_blocking).

I often go from 1 to 3 or 1 to 4 when winding out 1st gear on public roads.


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## mobile363 (Oct 14, 2003)

sjt1985 said:


> Of course.


ive never read undeniable proof of this though. Some say its hard on syncros. Or i should leave the clutch in and row through the skipped gear, or double clutch or any other number of things. I see no issue with skipping gears the way i suggested, but ive never known an expert on the topic to tell me. 

Ive been driving manual transmissions for 14 years. its all ive ever had


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

mobile363 said:


> ive never read undeniable proof of this though. Some say its hard on syncros.


I recommend readng up on synchros and trying to understand what they do. Be careful taking peoples word for things in the car world, there are a lot of self proclaimed car experts whose only knowledge lies on word of mouth from others. You will have synchro wear any time the output shaft on the transmission is spinning at a different speed than the input shaft. The bigger the difference, the greater the wear.


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## [email protected] (Apr 21, 2006)

The 4-6 on the higway is nice as well as the 6-4 to downshift...:thumbup:


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## brian1037 (Mar 6, 2012)

When talking about BMW's, what is e46 or e36 or whatever. What does the e mean and what do the numbers mean?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

brian1037 said:


> When talking about BMW's, what is e46 or e36 or whatever. What does the e mean and what do the numbers mean?


They are model body styles.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Ok, this was mentioned in the "Dump **** people say about cars" thread, but I'd still like to know: 

Could twin-charging ever work reliably? 

On the surface, to someone like me, who has never dealt directly with FI, it seems like it could be a good combo: supercharger to supply boost during the lag time it takes for a big turbo to spool. Is it the control of the varying boost levels that makes it most difficult?


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

MrMook said:


> Ok, this was mentioned in the "Dump **** people say about cars" thread, but I'd still like to know:
> 
> Could twin-charging ever work reliably?
> 
> On the surface, to someone like me, who has never dealt directly with FI, it seems like it could be a good combo: supercharger to supply boost during the lag time it takes for a big turbo to spool. Is it the control of the varying boost levels that makes it most difficult?


VW builds (or built) one. Fairly comprehensive wiki entry on it.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twincharger


----------



## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

mobile363 said:


> ive never read undeniable proof of this though. Some say its hard on syncros. Or i should leave the clutch in and row through the skipped gear, or double clutch or any other number of things. I see no issue with skipping gears the way i suggested, but ive never known an expert on the topic to tell me.


Honda put out a service bulletin a while back advising against the practice. I would think it would really only come into play if you revved first out to 8200 RPM then tried to go directly into 6th at 40 MPH or something like that. 

I always went through the motions of going through the other gears, though, and never had synchro issues in my Si like many did. (I also waited the fraction of a second for the synchros to get up to speed -- easy to feel with the Honda shifter -- instead of just slamming it into gear.)



Honda ServiceNews said:


> Gear ratios in 6-speed manual trannies are spaced close together so you can keep the engine speed in its optimum range for max power and acceleration. Shifting to the next higher or lower gear in a close-ratio tranny causes small changes in engine speed.
> 
> Shifting a close-ratio tranny through its gears by the numbers puts a very small load on the synchronizers since they only have to make small changes to the speed of the mainshaft and the clutch disc.
> 
> ...


----------



## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

TurboWraith said:


> VW builds (or built) one. Fairly comprehensive wiki entry on it.
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twincharger


I've always felt like I wouldn't want to own one out of warranty:


----------



## brian1037 (Mar 6, 2012)

barry2952 said:


> They are model body styles.


I had figured that part out, but what does the e mean and what does the 46 mean (or whatever other number).


----------



## JeffIsLax (Mar 26, 2005)

brian1037 said:


> I had figured that part out, but what does the e mean and what does the 46 mean (or whatever other number).





From the Intertubes said:


> The E stands for Entwicklung, the German word for Development. That's because the E codes are assigned by BMW at the beginning of model development.


As for the number, it is the next in series at the time of development.

The new models now use an "F" number, because they ran out of two digit "E" numbers.

More Info:
http://www.carmagazine.co.uk/News/S...News/All-the-BMW-E-and-F-codenames-explained/


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

mobile363 said:


> ive never read undeniable proof of this though. Some say its hard on syncros. Or i should leave the clutch in and row through the skipped gear, or double clutch or any other number of things. I see no issue with skipping gears the way i suggested, but ive never known an expert on the topic to tell me.
> 
> Ive been driving manual transmissions for 14 years. its all ive ever had


There is no technical or mechanical reason to pick any gear at any point in driving a manual (beyond mechanical limits ie. shifting to first at 70mph [in most cars with close ratio transmissions, you would actually ONLY use first for starting from a stop, any roll usually requires second], or reverse when you're going forward). The syncros do the work for you. I explained syncros a few pages back. What people call "being easy on the syncros", is taking time to shift. If you are going to a futher-away gear, just pause a bit in the middle of the shift while the revs drop to the right range. I suppose that would be like "rev matching", but you're not doing any throttle work, you're just letting the RPM fall gracefully into range, lol.

This is part of driving a manual that some people can't get for some reason, and it's the most unexplainable/unteachable part. You will learn to be second nature where the RPM/MPH should be in every gear, so you'll know the right time to shift/clutch without hurting the trans.


----------



## Sepp (Dec 10, 2002)

Serious question here. No hate on any type of genre of auto modification tastes.

I've seen quite the good number of "tuner" cars (that were originally built with pop up headlights) with the headlights that are just barely in the up position.
The cars always looks drowsy to me.

Is there a reason behind this fad?


----------



## CostcoPizza (Jan 20, 2008)

Sepp said:


> Serious question here. No hate on any type of genre of auto modification tastes.
> 
> I've seen quite the good number of "tuner" cars (that were originally built with pop up headlights) with the headlights that are just barely in the up position.
> The cars always looks drowsy to me.
> ...


I almost positive it's called the 'sleepy eye' look. No other reason behind aesthetics and to look different.


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## Sepp (Dec 10, 2002)

That's what I was quessing to be the story.

Thanks! :beer:


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## DISI 2.3T (Apr 22, 2004)

Alright, I am about to pull the trigger on some OEM Mazda6 wheels for my Mazdaspeed3. The OEM wheel size for the speed3 is 18x7 and the replacement OEM wheels are 17x7.

I need an alignment but I am unsure of how to go about this. The 17's are without tires, leaving that option open, and the 18's need to be replaced sometime in the near future. 

Questions:

Do I get an alignment with: old tires on 18's? new tires on 18's? new tires on 17's?

The car is stock.


----------



## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

mac dre said:


> I almost positive it's called the 'sleepy eye' look. No other reason behind aesthetics and to look different.


nope, at least not on miatas. it was a trend started in autocross/track driving of them to get more cold air under the hood and thus more power, but not as much air drag as totally up. 

it was then outlawed by the SCCA and other groups in stock classes, because there isn't a stock setting that puts them there.


----------



## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

DISI 2.3T said:


> Alright, I am about to pull the trigger on some OEM Mazda6 wheels for my Mazdaspeed3. The OEM wheel size for the speed3 is 18x7 and the replacement OEM wheels are 17x7.
> 
> I need an alignment but I am unsure of how to go about this. The 17's are without tires, leaving that option open, and the 18's need to be replaced sometime in the near future.
> 
> ...


My initial thought is that you wouldn't want to align it on the old tires, because if your current alignment has caused any abnormal tire wear it could throw off the new one a bit.

I would get new tires mounted (on either set of wheels) and align it immediately afterward.


----------



## DISI 2.3T (Apr 22, 2004)

adrew said:


> My initial thought is that you wouldn't want to align it on the old tires, because if your current alignment has caused any abnormal tire wear it could throw off the new one a bit.
> 
> I would get new tires mounted (on either set of wheels) and align it immediately afterward.


Perfect, now I just need to decide which set to put nice wheels on. I cant decide if I want to get economy tires for the 17's or 18's. Either way I dont want to spend an arm and a leg on the total.


----------



## daveschi (Jun 7, 2006)

Assle said:


> Trying to get an idea of what I would be looking for to tell if the axles are at fault. With the wheels spinning, are they going to wobble like bike wheels do?


no, spoked car wheels (like daytons, with actual "spokes") don't have to be trued (afaik). Wobbling would typically be from a bad axle, hub, or a bent wheel. I think, If I understand what you're asking.


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## daveschi (Jun 7, 2006)

DISI 2.3T said:


> Perfect, now I just need to decide which set to put nice wheels on. I cant decide if I want to get economy tires for the 17's or 18's. Either way I dont want to spend an arm and a leg on the total.


If you can have the speedo properly recalibrated for the different size while you're having it aligned, then definitely go with the wheels you'll use most often. If the overall diameter is even a significant difference.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

daveschi said:


> If you can have the speedo properly recalibrated for the different size while you're having it aligned, then definitely go with the wheels you'll use most often. If the overall diameter is even a significant difference.


Just looked it up and it came with 215/45/18s. The closest size would probably be 215/50/17 which is what the V6 Mazda6 came with.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

DISI 2.3T said:


> Perfect, now I just need to decide which set to put nice wheels on. I cant decide if I want to get economy tires for the 17's or 18's. Either way I dont want to spend an arm and a leg on the total.


Are you getting tires for both, or are you putting "economy tires" on whichever wheels you choose? I'm confused. 
If you're settling on cheap rubber based on budget alone, I say sell (or don't buy) the other set of wheels, and spend the money on some good rubber instead. Especially on a Speed3. Have you looked at the Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Specs? Amazing price for the performance...at least last time I looked (and bought).


----------



## thetopdog (Nov 11, 2008)

"Left Turn Yield On Green" signs-am I missing something or is there absolutely no point to these signs at all?


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

thetopdog said:


> "Left Turn Yield On Green" signs-am I missing something or is there absolutely no point to these signs at all?


I imagine no point at all, since that is a rule of the road anyway. I haven't seen any signs like that out this way, but in IL we had flashing yellow arrows if you're waiting in the left turn lane. I guess that means yield? Annoying.


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## JeffIsLax (Mar 26, 2005)

thetopdog said:


> "Left Turn Yield On Green" signs-am I missing something or is there absolutely no point to these signs at all?


I would assume that sign is to remind people that only the left arrow light is protected, and the green light is really a yield, for a turning lane that has it's own set of lights. At some point, someone must have gotten into an accident, and used the excuse that the light was green so I went without looking.


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## DISI 2.3T (Apr 22, 2004)

MrMook said:


> Are you getting tires for both, or are you putting "economy tires" on whichever wheels you choose? I'm confused.
> If you're settling on cheap rubber based on budget alone, I say sell (or don't buy) the other set of wheels, and spend the money on some good rubber instead. Especially on a Speed3. Have you looked at the Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Specs? Amazing price for the performance...at least last time I looked (and bought).


I think I made up my mind to get the 17's and put some decent wheels on them. Those are in the price range I am looking at for 4 so I might do that when I get the chance. Still plenty of tread left on the current tires on the 18's so I have some lee-way.


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## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

brian1037 said:


> When talking about BMW's, what is e46 or e36 or whatever. What does the e mean and what do the numbers mean?


http://speedhunters.com/archive/2008/06/20/the-101-gt-gt-intro-to-chassis-codes.aspx


----------



## compy222 (Apr 8, 2005)

DISI 2.3T said:


> I think I made up my mind to get the 17's and put some decent wheels on them. Those are in the price range I am looking at for 4 so I might do that when I get the chance. Still plenty of tread left on the current tires on the 18's so I have some lee-way.


align the car on whatever tires you expect to get the most performance out of. a weaker tire will let go on more performance oriented alignment. better to have the tire let you down than the suspension. plus, you want better wear for your performance tires (which are usually more expensive...).


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

Why do SS brake lines usually make your brake pedal softer? Is it because as opposed to rubber, they expand slightly when you depress the pedal due to the fluid being compressed?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Non-expanding lines would make your pedal harder. You probably have air in the lines.


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

Hmm, I was under the impression that stainless steel lines would have more of a tendency to expand over rubber because the weave reminds me of fabric... 

What about air in the ABS modulator? Would that cause a soft pedal? 

Do you know what kind of 4 corner bleeding system the dealers use? I took the R in to check the brakes and they bled it with their pump thing and the pedal feels a LOT better but not as hard as I'd like it to be, so I want to see if I can do it my self (or at least own the tool that they use) so I can save myself another $170, which was how much it cost to do it at the dealer.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

C4 A6 said:


> Hmm, I was under the impression that stainless steel lines would have more of a tendency to expand over rubber because the weave reminds me of fabric...
> 
> What about air in the ABS modulator? Would that cause a soft pedal?
> 
> Do you know what kind of 4 corner bleeding system the dealers use? I took the R in to check the brakes and they bled it with their pump thing and the pedal feels a LOT better but not as hard as I'd like it to be, so I want to see if I can do it my self (or at least own the tool that they use) so I can save myself another $170, which was how much it cost to do it at the dealer.


 Have them do it over again. You should not have a spongy pedal. 

Your thinking is backwards on the lines. The braid keeps them from expanding. Before I did my Porsche you could feel the rubber hoses expanding in your hand. With the braided there is no expansion at all. 

Understand that if you have expansion in the line you are diverting pressure from where it should be.


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## Gitcha Sum (May 27, 2008)

I'm trying to put humvee wheels on a Ford dana 60. 

The center bore of the wheel doesn't quite fit the hub. 

Would it make more sense to turn down the hub to match the center bore, OR, bore out the wheel to fit the hub?


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## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

SS lines are just a rubber line, with a SS weave outside to prevent expansion.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

deucestudios said:


> I'm trying to put humvee wheels on a Ford dana 60.
> 
> The center bore of the wheel doesn't quite fit the hub.
> 
> Would it make more sense to turn down the hub to match the center bore, OR, bore out the wheel to fit the hub?


i've always seen the wheel side get the work to make it fit. seems like an easier process.

good question, i'd also be interested if there's anybody with factual info on which is ideal.


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

C4 A6 said:


> What about air in the ABS modulator? Would that cause a soft pedal?
> 
> Do you know what kind of 4 corner bleeding system the dealers use? I took the R in to check the brakes and they bled it with their pump thing and the pedal feels a LOT better but not as hard as I'd like it to be, so I want to see if I can do it my self (or at least own the tool that they use) so I can save myself another $170, which was how much it cost to do it at the dealer.


Yes it will cause a soft pedal. They use VAGcom or whatever factory scan tool they use to pulse bleed the ABS system. A lot of newer cars can only be sucessfully bled this way.


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## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

*what is this car again*

didn't feel like starting a new thread for just this one car since I know many of you must know what it is. I just forget the name of it.










Thanks in advance :beer:

edit: the yellow one of course


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

It looks so sad


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## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

Why do people think red cars are faster?


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## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

MrMook said:


> It looks so sad


It's saying: "Oh gawd... they are taking pictures!?!? I look like crap this early in the morning. Somebody please fix my eyes before they take any more. sob"


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## Spiller337 (Nov 27, 2009)

BRealistic said:


> Why do people think red cars are faster?


Red is the lightest color. Less weight = moar fast.

Not even sure if that's true, but I remember reading about it.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Spiller337 said:


> Red is the lightest color. Less weight = moar fast.
> 
> Not even sure if that's true, but I remember reading about it.




Not sure if serious.....


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## Spiller337 (Nov 27, 2009)

TwoLitreVW said:


> Not sure if serious.....


Oh sorry, red is actually one of the heavier colors. And no, my post wasn't very serious in case you couldn't tell.


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

2.0_mazda said:


> didn't feel like starting a new thread for just this one car since i know many of you must know what it is. I just forget the name of it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 maserati ghibli?


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## KeiCar (Jul 23, 2002)

MrMook said:


> It looks so sad


Don't worry, if you put a little Lithium in the gas talk it'll perk right up. 

Serious


----------



## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

Brakes on trailers - how do they work?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

That depends. The most popular are probably electric brakes, but those need a controller that sends a specific voltage to the electromagnets in the brakes. They operate a lever that gives enough mechanical advantage to spread the brake shoes.

Then there's hydraulic brakes that are very similar to what you have on your car. They can be disc or drum and they can be activated by a surge brake, which uses the inertia of the load to compress brake fluid in the cylinders, or, there's an electrically-activated hydraulic pump that runs off of an on board battery. My trailer has disc brakes and a hydraulic/electric actuator that produces 1600 psi.

I address the brakes on my trailer about a third of the way into this. Not for dial-up. bring snacks.

http://cardomain.com/ride/340096/5


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I was wondering that myself :thumbup:

I had seen a show once a few years ago, where they talked to real-life crash investigators about real accident scenes. One story was about a pair of brothers who were driving their trailer up to a T intersection, and signaled to turn left. The trailer and truck then wildly lost control, crashed, and they were killed  the crash investigators noticed dashed tire tracks, they concluded what happened is the turn signal was wired to the brake lights, which also activated the trailer brakes in a pulsating fashion


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Idiots. That's what the controller is for. The magnets are the same for 6-volt as they do for 12-volt. Full voltage will make them lock up.


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## bombardi (Mar 28, 2004)

Is it possible to mate a S62 motor (E39 M5) with the E92 M3 SMG III transmission? They're both V8s. A healthy E39 is pushing about 380-390hp and the M3 is about 430hp(?). Could this work?


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## JeffIsLax (Mar 26, 2005)

I don't know the answer to your question, but the S52 is a straight-6 out of the M3. The E39 M5 has the S62.


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## bombardi (Mar 28, 2004)

JeffIsLax said:


> I don't know the answer to your question, but the S52 is a straight-6 out of the M3. The E39 M5 has the S62.


 Oops. Typo. Corrected.


----------



## fishNchips (Apr 16, 2009)

I was just reading somewhere (although I cant remember where) that on FWD racing cars (ie cars pushed to their limits) that rear spoilers increase the traction on the rear wheels (duh) which helps prevent oversteer caused by loss of traction from rear sway bars. 

How exactly does this work? Wouldnt the two just cancel each other out to an extent, or is just that its designed to be proportional. 

Thanks.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

bombardi said:


> Is it possible to mate a S62 motor (E39 M5) with the E92 M3 SMG III transmission? They're both V8s. A healthy E39 is pushing about 380-390hp and the M3 is about 430hp(?). Could this work?


 Did they use the same getrag 6 speed in the manual e92 and the e39? If so, they the smg might bolt up 

The wiring is going to be most difficult part. 

only question is y? you want to put the smg into a e39 body? because I assume it bolting up to the engine wont be the only problem


----------



## fishNchips (Apr 16, 2009)

bombardi said:


> Is it possible to mate a S62 motor (E39 M5) with the E92 M3 SMG III transmission? They're both V8s. A healthy E39 is pushing about 380-390hp and the M3 is about 430hp(?). Could this work?


 Also dont know the answer but Im sure there are ways to get the extra 40 hp much easier than engine swapping.


----------



## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

bombardi said:


> Is it possible to mate a S62 motor (E39 M5) with the E92 M3 SMG III transmission? They're both V8s. A healthy E39 is pushing about 380-390hp and the M3 is about 430hp(?). Could this work?





JeffIsLax said:


> I don't know the answer to your question, but the *S54* is a straight-6 out of the M3. The E39 M5 has the S62.


 (fixed engine designation - S52 was used in E36 M3, and early M Roadster.) 
And... US-spec S54, in the E46 M3, was 333hp. Not 430. Even the Euro version wasn't that high.... 
I'm going to go with.... NO. 6cyl and V8 trans bolt patterns are wildly different. 

Seconded to previous two questions: 
What car are you dealing with? And, why? (answering #1 will help answer #2, too....)


----------



## therichisgood (Mar 7, 2004)

What does it mean in car magazines when it says, Price "as tested"? Does it mean _that _particular car they're testing with those options or...?


----------



## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

R-Acs said:


> What does it mean in car magazines when it says, Price "as tested"? Does it mean _that _particular car they're testing with those options or...?


 Yes it means the car that they tested had certain options and features when it was loaned to them. They mention it because it may affect its performance or capability or just their impressions.


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## jettafan[atic] (Dec 2, 2008)

R-Acs said:


> What does it mean in car magazines when it says, Price "as tested"? Does it mean _that _particular car they're testing with those options or...?


 yup yup. The price as tested is what the msrp would be on the exact car they tested with that paint, those wheels, those options etc...


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

What differentiates a poor fender roll from a good one other than cracked paint? 

I need to have all four of mine rolled soon and want to be as anal as possible about it.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

josh_did_what said:


> I was just reading somewhere (although I cant remember where) that on FWD racing cars (ie cars pushed to their limits) that rear spoilers increase the traction on the rear wheels (duh) which helps prevent oversteer caused by loss of traction from rear sway bars.
> 
> How exactly does this work? Wouldnt the two just cancel each other out to an extent, or is just that its designed to be proportional.
> 
> Thanks.


 
I hadn't thought about it in that way, but here's my _guess_: 
A large rear sway bar on a FWD car induces oversteer (or reduces understeer, depending on how you look at it). Either way, it helps bring the rear end around in corners. That's great for low-speed handling, and tight maneuvers. That may not be so great at higher speeds....so to reduce mid-corner lift of the inside rear wheel at speed, a little downforce might be the ticket. Best of both worlds: High speed stability, paired with low-speed maneuverability. 

Survey says? Am I close?


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## stascom (Sep 12, 2009)

Sonic303 said:


> Why go low?


 - mad tyte yo 
- because racecar 
- no fat chicks


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

Dustin168 said:


> If you had the manufacturing/fabricating means available, could you put a turbo on any engine? Say, a 22RE? And I mean a big turbo, like something off a tractor trailer.


 Yes, you can. 

But it wouldn't work. 

You probably wouldn't get the flow through the exhaust to generate any boost, and even if you managed to get it spinning, it's you'd measure lag in months.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

josh_did_what said:


> I was just reading somewhere (although I cant remember where) that on FWD racing cars (ie cars pushed to their limits) that rear spoilers increase the traction on the rear wheels (duh) which helps prevent oversteer caused by loss of traction from rear sway bars.
> 
> How exactly does this work? Wouldnt the two just cancel each other out to an extent, or is just that its designed to be proportional.


 I'd say it has everything to do with speed. 

At low speeds, a FWD car that's tuned to oversteer is great. At high speeds, it can get a bit sketchy. 
Wing downforce: Not much at low speeds. More at high speeds. 

Sounds perfect.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

MustacheGT said:


> What differentiates a poor fender roll from a good one other than cracked paint?
> 
> I need to have all four of mine rolled soon and want to be as anal as possible about it.


 Both will crack your paint if you do it wrong. Most people use a heat gun to warm the paint up and make it more pliable for the rolling, but this is not 100% effective. If you are rolling fenders i would expect to need some touch-up or repair. IMO, the "right" way to do it would be sanding it down, rolling it, and painting/ blending the area for the best results and rust protection.


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## fishNchips (Apr 16, 2009)

MrMook said:


> I hadn't thought about it in that way, but here's my _guess_:
> A large rear sway bar on a FWD car induces oversteer (or reduces understeer, depending on how you look at it). Either way, it helps bring the rear end around in corners. That's great for low-speed handling, and tight maneuvers. That may not be so great at higher speeds....so to reduce mid-corner lift of the inside rear wheel at speed, a little downforce might be the ticket. Best of both worlds: High speed stability, paired with low-speed maneuverability.
> 
> Survey says? Am I close?





Surf Green said:


> I'd say it has everything to do with speed.
> 
> At low speeds, a FWD car that's tuned to oversteer is great. At high speeds, it can get a bit sketchy.
> Wing downforce: Not much at low speeds. More at high speeds.
> ...


 Ahh thank you, I dont know why I couldnt wrap my head around that lol.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

josh_did_what said:


> Ahh thank you, I dont know why I couldnt wrap my head around that lol.


 LOLs... I didn't even read the response before mine. I just saw that Scion, and thought, "Move along... nothing to see here... " :laugh:


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## fishNchips (Apr 16, 2009)

Surf Green said:


> LOLs... I didn't even read the response before mine. I just saw that Scion, and thought, "Move along... nothing to see here... " :laugh:


 Lmao well in your defense , doesnt that wing reduce rear stability?


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## bajaboyextra (Sep 11, 2011)

Why do some left hand drive 911 wipers hang left, others right?


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

bajaboyextra said:


> Why do some left hand drive 911 wipers hang left, others right?


 I had to zoom in to see if the car on the left was right hand drive.... but it's not. I would have thought that would be the reason.


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## mobile363 (Oct 14, 2003)

Surf Green said:


> I had to zoom in to see if the car on the left was right hand drive.... but it's not. I would have thought that would be the reason.


 Im sure it depends on the market its sold in. If you drive on right hand side of the road, it goes one way, left hand side of road it goes the other way. 

Makes sense but i cant say for sure that is the reason


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

Looking at the picture again, the wiper pivots are symmetrical to either side of the car, and wipe 180 degrees... 

edit: a little searching shows that changing the "park" position of the wipers from the stock location on the left, to the right, is fairly popular.


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## bajaboyextra (Sep 11, 2011)

Surf Green said:


> Looking at the picture again, the wiper pivots are symmetrical to either side of the car, and wipe 180 degrees...
> 
> edit: a little searching shows that changing the "park" position of the wipers from the stock location on the left, to the right, is fairly popular.


 Thanks! I didn't know you could change the park setting. Having the wiper park in my field of vision on my '66 has bugged me since I got it in '80.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

bajaboyextra said:


> Thanks! I didn't know you could change the park setting. Having the wiper park in my field of vision on my '66 has bugged me since I got it in '80.


 Mk2 golf/gtis do it too, because stock it is parked up at an angle, looks way better level on the other side.


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## Bullethead (Apr 25, 2011)

bajaboyextra said:


> Why do some left hand drive 911 wipers hang left, others right?


 All early 911 (1964-67) wiper arms are painted silver and park on the right, regardless of RHD or LHD. After August 1967 (beginning 1968 model year) Porsche painted them black and changed to park on the left for LHD and right for RHD.


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## the flying grape! (Dec 4, 1999)

Does anyone know what causes the whine that I remember from classic GM automatic transmissions for RWD? The whine starts when the car begins moving from a stop, the whine increases in frequency until the transmission shifts gears, and then the whine goes away.


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## Bias_Ply (Feb 6, 2010)

depending on what transmission, ususally it is because first gear would have straight-cut gears (stronger), and the higher gears would be helical-cut. (quieter)


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

the flying grape! said:


> Does anyone know what causes the whine that I remember from classic GM automatic transmissions for RWD? The whine starts when the car begins moving from a stop, the whine increases in frequency until the transmission shifts gears, and then the whine goes away.


 Panther-platform Fords do it, too. (Crown Vic, Town Car, Grand Marquis). 

I've always sort of wondered about it but never did any research. I found this thread: 
http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?21246-Drivetrain-low-speed-whine 



thread said:


> It is the tranny gears. It's simply gear whine and nothing to be worried about. That whine is what makes the AOD gear pack to durable. The gears are relatively straiter than most, straiter cut gears whine more, but are stronger.


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

What are these holes all about? Mostly seen on "tuner" cars, but I've seen it on some track cars as well.


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## TheDarkEnergist (Aug 22, 2009)

MrMook said:


> What are these holes all about? Mostly seen on "tuner" cars, but I've seen it on some track cars as well.


 That's a DIY(also W) rear "diffuser."

I'm using quotes because I don't think diffuser is the right term. But in theory it's supposed to let all the air that gets trapped in the concave of the rear bumper out, decreasing drag and increasing top speed. :thumbup:


----------



## Shmi (Mar 25, 2009)

Why do MotoGP drivers in racing stick their knees out in the direction of the lean when cornering? Maybe other bikers do this too but I'm not sure. For balance? How does this work?


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## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

Well in events like MotoGP they are wearing kneepads and will occasionally use there knee off the ground. usully use to throw your weight around, balance, when in a turn.


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## the brit (Jun 23, 2003)

weenerdog3443 said:


> Well in events like MotoGP they are wearing kneepads and will occasionally use there knee off the ground. usully use to throw your weight around, balance, when in a turn.


 

Yes, balance and can also be a minor breaking assist. You can shift your more than 1/2 your body off the bike to help corner, while leaving the bike more upright to have a larger tire contact patch on the track surface: 










Doing it on the road is fun, but often pointless - staying tucked in, being smoother and more aerodynamic would be quicker overall if you're not going fast enough to need to corner that hard. 


Some riders (Rossi especially) started to put their whole foot and leg out, which has been catching on a bit more. Is it not too widespread. 











The real pros (i.e. not a road rider) can 'catch' a bike with their knee and elbow - if the bike starts to low-side, they can try to catch it and force the tires back down to grip using their bodies contact points to bring it back. This is what Marco Simoncelli may have been attempting to do during his fatal accident. 

This is a extreme lowside save (not SIC's) :


----------



## clutchrider (Dec 11, 2010)

Why do only minivans, SUVs, Trucks have their back glass tinted? I realize every state has tint laws but why do I not see sedans, coupes, hatchbacks come from the factory with tinted rear windows?


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## Shmi (Mar 25, 2009)

clutchrider said:


> Why do only minivans, SUVs, Trucks have their back glass tinted? I realize every state has tint laws but why do I not see sedans, coupes, hatchbacks come from the factory with tinted rear windows?


 Not 100% sure but I think tint laws are less restrictive in general for SUVs, so manufacturers can sell them with tint stock, whereas sedans they are usually more restrictive.


----------



## pinktshirt (Jul 25, 2007)

Springs, shock absorbers, dampers, coil-overs, wtf?! 

someone please clarify the basic function of the essential suspension components please? :beer:


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

pinktshirt said:


> Springs, shock absorbers, dampers, coil-overs, wtf?!
> 
> someone please clarify the basic function of the essential suspension components please? :beer:


 Springs 
Support the car, and absorb impacts. 

Dampers 
Shocks and struts are both dampers. They control how quickly the spring is allowed to compress and/or rebound during and after an impact. A damper is basically a piston in a sealed cylinder filled with fluid (gas, air, oil). As the piston moves up or down with the movement of the car, the gas is pushed through passages (valves) at certain rates to control how fast or slow the piston will move. Performance models have adjustable damping in one or both directions (compression and rebound). 

Coilovers 
technically a normal shock/spring setup could be called a "coil over", since the coiled spring does fit over the strut, but this term typically refers to height-adjustable shock/spring assemblies. The body of the strut is threaded to allow the lock ring to be spun up or down, changing spring height, and ultimately the cars ride height. Note the threaded body: 










Cup Kit 
Cup Kits are paired spring/strut packages, but they are essentially a strut and a spring. Most cup kits are sold to lower cars by an inch or two, and often contain shorter springs, and stiffer damper valving. The term refers to cup series racing, where cars have to run the same gear, so it's sold as a kit.


----------



## P-Body (Mar 18, 2007)

Hypothetical no one has ever really explained to me, and I know a dealership won't give me a straight answer on: 

I lease a vehicle for 4 years, sticker price is 30k. Regular old lease, at the end I have option to buy the car or give it back. 

Residual is 15k. 

As lease end approaches, do some homework and realize that the vehicle is worth 20k on the open market. 

... 

The question is - can/does this 5k difference in my favor be used if I want to negotiate pricing on another car to buy? I know if it was the inverse and the car was actually worth 10k, you would obviously walk away after the lease, but I'm asking more from the standpoint of a dealership - do they use stuff like this to try and keep you in another car?


----------



## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

You'd probably have to buy it and flip it. The dealer won't give you the difference.


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

I would go to the dealer you leased it from or any other dealer. depending on what bank did the lease and how the lease is built could go a couple different ways. I know at my work we work it just like a normal trade, if the value is great bonus for you if not tough luck. Now when we get say Honda lease's turned it aint a thing I can do with them but say hey go drop it off at the honda place


----------



## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

What kind of power gains will headers add to a 5.0L (302) with just an air intake? :laugh: 

I'm getting the grumble on in my truck here shortly. :beer: 

Straight pipes from headers to Flowmaster 40's. Should be entertaining.


----------



## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

By headers I assume you mean standard shorty headers? If so, you're looking at 5-10hp in most cases. Long tubes will net ~20 over stock. Bear in mind the engine is a system so more can be gained when other mods are done to complement the headers. 

Anything performance-wise done to either of your Powerstrokes? Got any pics?


----------



## Bias_Ply (Feb 6, 2010)

JUSTINCASE1021 said:


> why were some 2002 golfs called the "337" ???


 it was a special edition GTI, 337 was the original order code for a GTI and this model had some special seats and wheels, I believe. 

Most of it was then carried over to the GTI 20th anniversary (with different wheels) the next year.


----------



## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

Assle said:


> By headers I assume you mean standard shorty headers? If so, you're looking at 5-10hp in most cases. Long tubes will net ~20 over stock. Bear in mind the engine is a system so more can be gained when other mods are done to complement the headers.
> 
> Anything performance-wise done to either of your Powerstrokes? Got any pics?


 One of them has injectors + turbo + 4" exhaust + custom tune. 

The other just has tune + 4" exhaust. 

They both have built transmissions from Brian's Truck Shop (google it). 

The 2000 model was tuned and built by BTS. The other one is an early 99 which means it has the smaller turbo, different oil setup, etc. It's the red one and just has tune and exhaust. The 350 has a tune from DP tuners, other truck has it's tune from Brian's Truck Shop, and the guy learned how to tune from DP tuners. 

2000 F250 7.3L 









1999 F350 7.3L


----------



## ByronLLN (Jul 29, 2004)

Shmi said:


> Not 100% sure but I think tint laws are less restrictive in general for SUVs, so manufacturers can sell them with tint stock, whereas sedans they are usually more restrictive.


 It has to do with laws that govern tint used for cargo areas vs. passenger areas, and of course it all varies state-to-state. A lot of the laws went on the books long before SUVs were popular as people-haulers.


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## Chiropractor JW (Oct 4, 2009)

The 337 had recaro seats, 6-speed manual, different springs, some body molding stuff, and a few other appearance items. 1500 were made for the U.S. When you factor in accidents, ricers ruining them with black wheels/mesh/airbags/etc, it's safe to assume that maybe half the original amount are left. 

My question for the thread is: 

What exactly is a "tune-up?"


----------



## Lifelong Obsession (Jul 24, 2011)

My mother's 2004 Mercedes E320 4Matic went in for an alignment at Town Fair Tire. The guy said that he couldn't complete the alignment because the car needed two camber bolts. I asked him if he would replace the bolts if I ordered them online, but he said "sorry, we can't do that". Why is this, and do I have to bring the car to the dealer? Will an independent MB shop do this?


----------



## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

Chiropractor JW said:


> My question for the thread is:
> 
> What exactly is a "tune-up?"


 Very little now. Today it means changing the spark plugs, air filter, and possibly fuel filter and/or plug wires. It used to mean 

- Cap 
- Rotor 
- Points 
- Air Filter 
- fuel filter 
- spark plugs 
- spark plug wires 
- set timing 
- adjust valves/lash 
- set idle 
- adjust carb


----------



## CodeMan (May 12, 2006)

Lifelong Obsession said:


> My mother's 2004 Mercedes E320 4Matic went in for an alignment at Town Fair Tire. The guy said that he couldn't complete the alignment because the car needed two camber bolts. I asked him if he would replace the bolts if I ordered them online, but he said "sorry, we can't do that". *Why is this*, and do I have to bring the car to the dealer? Will an independent MB shop do this?


 Because then he can't sell you parts you don't need.


----------



## LethaOne (Aug 20, 2007)

How do I car?


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## Grey Mouser (Oct 30, 2003)

LethaOne said:


> How do I car?


 









HTH.


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## Dubai Vol (Jan 8, 2002)

StormChaser said:


> Very little now. Today it means changing the spark plugs, air filter, and possibly fuel filter and/or plug wires. It used to mean
> 
> - Cap
> - Rotor
> ...


 Don't forget the points adjustment, which was probably the first thing to go wrong and might need adjusting on a very frequent basis, especially if you you pitted them by leaving the ignition on for a few minutes. Then it was all about getting out the points file and the dwell meter and the timing light. And I've also had condensers go bad on me when I didn't replace them often enough. 

God how I miss those days!


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## LethaOne (Aug 20, 2007)

lol, time to be serious. Can someone explain to me how lift-off oversteer works on a FWD? I honestly don't know.


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## Dubai Vol (Jan 8, 2002)

LethaOne said:


> lol, time to be serious. Can someone explain to me how lift-off oversteer works on a FWD? I honestly don't know.


 Sam as any car, helped along by suspension geometry when appropriate. You lift, the weight comes off the rear tyres, and they lose grip. VW's very good torsion beam rear suspension also helps a bit with the process. My Mk2 GTI 16v is one of the most eminently steerable-with-the-throttle vehicles I have ever driven.


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## Bias_Ply (Feb 6, 2010)

the same way it works on a rear wheel drive car. 

If you are turning hard into a corner, and suddenly jump off the throttle, the car will decelerate. (the effect is more severe if you are in a low gear using compression braking). This action (lifting the throttle) causes the weight to shift from the rear axle to the front axle. (think of how a bowling ball would roll to the front of the car if you were braking hard) 

Now you have all the weight of the car pushing down on the front end, and not very much pushing on the back. if you are trying to turn the car at the same time as you do this, the back end can slide because it doesn't have as much grip (weight), and the front end has high grip and lots of weight transfer.


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## CodeMan (May 12, 2006)

LethaOne said:


> lol, time to be serious. Can someone explain to me how lift-off oversteer works on a FWD? I honestly don't know.


 Oversteer occurs when your front tires have more traction than the rears. When you lift off the throttle in a turn, weight transfers forward, in turn reducing the load on the rear tires. Voila, oversteer!


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## IC AI (Aug 29, 2008)

Big block/small block. Is that explained someplace? Or can someone explain like I am 5 (with the corresponding attention span)?


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

The way that was originally used was that all of the engines available in a certain brand of car all started out based on 2 blocks. The displacement was then altered to create many many different engines by either boring, stroking, or de-stroking. 

The most-common example is the Small-block Chevrolet (SBC) that was 265ci. By changing the bore and/or stroke, you got the 283, 302, 350, 383, 396, 400 as well as some other less-known displacements. 

The Big-block Chevrolet (BBC) I believe started out as a 400ci and went down to 348 and then up to 427, with a few rarities inbetween. 

Today, however, "big-block" has been lost to the marketing department shenanigans.


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

How could you forget the 454?! :what::laugh:


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

Duh!, how is it I forgot the 454 but remembered the 302? :screwy: memory 

There used to be a great site that had all of the displacements listed along with the dimensions of each one so you can see what adding the crank from one rotating assembly into the block of another netted you. Wish I could remember the URL  

Then there's the whole trying to explain the B-O-P differences in the 455s and how that's not the same as the BBC 454 and how is it there was a 348 BBC yet a 400 SBC. I don't even want to get into how the Gen III SBC was pushed out to 427ci by MTI


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## IC AI (Aug 29, 2008)

Assle said:


> The way that was originally used was that all of the engines available in a certain brand of car all started out based on 2 blocks. The displacement was then altered to create many many different engines by either boring, stroking, or de-stroking.
> 
> The most-common example is the Small-block Chevrolet (SBC) that was 265ci. By changing the bore and/or stroke, you got the 283, 302, 350, 383, 396, 400 as well as some other less-known displacements.
> 
> The Big-block Chevrolet (BBC) I believe started out as a 400ci and went down to 348 and then up to 427, with a few rarities inbetween.


 Great explanation, thank you! So it's irrelevant as far as knowing whether an engine will put out a lot of power/torque or will be reliable?


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

Absolutely irrelevant. You would need much more information than just whether the engine is big or small block-based. 

Furthermore, one displacement (take the 350 SBC as an example because it is the most common) came in many varieties. 2-bolt or 4-bolt mains, 1 or 2-piece seal, a variety of different compression ratios, power ratings, connecting rod bolt dimensions, etc.


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## compy222 (Apr 8, 2005)

can someone please explain the wheel hop problem and how it relates to the last gen CTS-V and other vehicles?


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## NashGTI (Mar 8, 2006)

Short answer for the big block/small block question, is valve angle and valve seperation. typically, big block will have canted valves at the head, which means the stems up at the top are farther apart. A small block the valves are side by side and share alignment which makes the tops of the valve stems be side by side, much more narrow (smaller) than a big block head. So the big block/small block thing has nothing to do with the block per se. 

Big Block Chevy head 










Small Block Chevy head 











easy way to tell BOP 455s apart, the Buick has a distributor in the front while Olds and Pontiac were in the back, Olds and Pontiac the valve covers were different, Pontiac has 4 bolts, Olds 10. Also Olds add oil into the timing cover, Pontiac into the valve cover. Those are the obvious outward differences, internally the dimensions are all different.


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## NashGTI (Mar 8, 2006)

Assle said:


> The Big-block Chevrolet (BBC) I believe started out as a 400ci and went down to 348 and then up to 427, with a few rarities inbetween.
> 
> Today, however, "big-block" has been lost to the marketing department shenanigans.


 348 and 409 were not really what you would call a Big Block Chevy engine, they are what is refered to as a W block, while you can definately see the lineage there, it's a completely different animal. 

BBC 366, 396, 402, 427, 454, 502 were the factory displacements 

SBC 265, 283, 302, 305, 307, 327, 350, 400. (I don't count 427 because you have to use a really loose definition of things to consider the LS engines the same as a traditional SBC 


one other thing I forgot above, the Buick/Pontiac/Olds at least the 455, were all technically small block engines:beer:


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## Egz (May 30, 2002)

Odd one. Why is vacuum usually measured in Inches of Mercury, but positive pressure is in PSI/bar/atmosphere?


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

compy222 said:


> can someone please explain the wheel hop problem and how it relates to the last gen CTS-V and other vehicles?


 When the drive wheel(s) receive so much torque that traction is lost and then regained and lost again over and over, you will see the wheel/tire bounce ("hop") up and down within the gap under the fender. That's what you see as a spectator. What you feel inside the car is shaking from either the front (for FWD) or rear (RWD). Additionally with FWD, the steering wheel will rotate and/or shake on its own because you steer the drive wheels in a FWD. 

The damage comes from what you do not see or feel, and that is what happens to the chassis and driveline. As the tires keep losing and gaining and losing and gaining traction, the drive/CV shaft assemblies as well as the differential experience little force (when the tires slip) to extreme force (when the tires grip) over and over and over. As this keep happening over and over, the insides of the differential and drive/CV shafts get worn down from all of the sudden engagement-to-disengagement-to-engagement action, and this eventually results in broken teeth on the ring/pinion/planetary gears in the diff as well as damage to the U-joints, as well as uneven clutch surface wear.


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## NashGTI (Mar 8, 2006)

Egz said:


> Odd one. Why is vacuum usually measured in Inches of Mercury, but positive pressure is in PSI/bar/atmosphere?


 Because my car gets 40 rods to the hogshead and that's the way I likes it 









seriously though, it's an Imperial measurement thing though, most of the world does pressure absolute (measure up from completed vacuum), not measuring from atmospheric pressure and then plus or minus that, which is what the USA does.


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

Egz said:


> Odd one. Why is vacuum usually measured in Inches of Mercury, but positive pressure is in PSI/bar/atmosphere?


 First, the tl;dr version: 

Because the inches of Mercury is only used by nerdy folk so no one bothered to convert it. To talk about mad b00st torqz y0, positive pressure was converted. Many gauges you can buy today give you both psi and kPa readouts. 

If you have time on your hands: 

Originally (17th century), water was attempted as the displacing fluid of choice but was not dense enough at approximately 1 g/cm3 so Torricelli (the guy credited with inventing the barometer) proposed using Mercury with a density of 13.534 g/cm3 

Vacuum was measured using the displacement of 1mm of Mercury in a given space (a cylindrical tube 2/10ths of an inch in diameter which was the first barometer). The unit assigned for each millimeter of Mercury displaced in the 2/10ths of an inch-wide tube was Pa (named after Pascal, another guy famous for his work with pressures, vacuums, and fluids). 

1 atmosphere unit (atm) represents the mean atmospheric pressure at mean sea level in Paris. That location was chosen because the unit was adopted by the General Conference of Weights and Measures and they meet in a suburb of Paris to decide. 

In 1954, the General Conference of Weights and Measures said that 1 atm is equivalent to 1,013,250 dynes per square centimeter. A “dyne” is how much force it would take to accelerate a one-gram mass one centimeter per second per second and is equivalent to 10 micronewtons. 

Because we here in America use United States customary units instead of metric, mathematical conversions were used to convert metric standards into pounds per square inch, thus giving us psi. 

1 atm unit is 101,325 Pa which converts to 14.6959488 psi or 14.7 for short. I have seen some conversions list the pressure at sea level as 14.5psi but this is only because someone rounded 101.325 kPa to just 100 kPa because it is easier to remember and 100 kPa is 14.5037738 psi. 

EDIT: Wikipedia is the greatest time sucker of all. :facepalm:


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

Which in turn means that 1 "bar" is around 14 PSI if you're at sea level. 

It gets real complicated trying to convert "bars" to "psi" once you go up from there. 

For instance, the 930 Turbo hits around .8 bar and we're at an elevation of around 1,000 FT. 

Not sure how many PSI that is, nor do I care... It just goes fast.


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## superjario18 (Oct 7, 2009)

I figured this is a question best suited for this thread... 

Is there a way to lower the brake rotor size on an e30 325i so I can drop down to 13 inch wheels vs 14inch as my smallest? 

I know most people want to go up, but I want to go down a size!


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

So the USA has a huge resource of junkyards. What does Europe's salvage yard situation look like compared to ours? I've been to Germany on two separate occasions, but it seems like they're more about replacing used parts with new ones? Perhaps their insurance regulations aren't as loose as ours?


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## spongebob_squarepants (Jul 4, 2001)

Why is it a given, or common knowledge, that RWD cars handle better than FWD cars?


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

spongebob_squarepants said:


> Why is it a given, or common knowledge, that RWD cars handle better than FWD cars?


 Because you're asking the front tires in a FWD car to pull the car forwards and turn. Plus when you accelerate in any car the weight is transferred to the rear which will give RWD cars better traction and worse traction for FWD cars.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

What legally makes a car an automatic? Because they have specific laws applied to them (PRNDL, locking shifter etc), there must be rules. Lack of manual gear changes? Some autos have that. lack of a clutch maybe?


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

No, because some automatics (e.g. ZF 8HP) have a clutch (no torque converter in it!) 

My definition (and, I think, the generally-accepted definition) of an "automatic transmission": 
Planetary gearsets, _and_ the ability to shift itself. 

Of course, it's getting a lot fuzzier these days. Automatics without a torque converter; "automatic manual" transmissions (e.g. BMW's SMG (some an adapted manual box, others purpose-built); and anything dual-clutch (BMW DCT, VW DSG for example.) 
The SMG and DCT/DSG boxes _can _shift themselves (automatic program), yes; but, they retain "real" gears (with syncros.)


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I should have said "lack of a clutch pedal". But I do agree, and that's why I asked the question. If it's automatic shifting that necessitates the automatic transmission laws, then how about CVTs? Technically, there's only one forward position, so it is sort of "manual" since you have to put it in gear to go


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## gsprobe (Jan 29, 2006)

Why do used Z4's go for sooo much less than used TT's? Why are used Wranglers so darn much? Same with Lotus Elise's, they are still selling for 75% of MSRP 7 years later with 30k miles on them. The sad truth is that the 3 used cars on my bucket list seem to hold insane value. Are they great investments?


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

I've got a good friend with a 1999 wrangler sport 4.0 hard top with a manual, he bought it 6 years ago and the value has only dropped 3k. 

I'd say he's gotten his money worth.


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## dentinger (Nov 20, 2007)

a friend of mine just finished rebuilding a VR6 head. 
he did a "5 angle valve job" on it. 

what does that mean?


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## Egz (May 30, 2002)

dentinger said:


> a friend of mine just finished rebuilding a VR6 head.
> he did a "5 angle valve job" on it.
> 
> what does that mean?


 Picture is worth a thousand words. 


__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

efrie said:


> I've got a good friend with a 1999 wrangler sport 4.0 hard top with a manual, he bought it 6 years ago and the value has only dropped 3k.
> 
> I'd say he's gotten his money worth.


 I've got a good friend with a 1998 Jetta GLS 2.0 sunroof with a manual. Bought it over 2 years ago, value has only dropped $400. 

What's the point?


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

gsprobe said:


> Why do used Z4's go for sooo much less than used TT's? Why are used Wranglers so darn much? Same with Lotus Elise's, they are still selling for 75% of MSRP 7 years later with 30k miles on them. The sad truth is that the 3 used cars on my bucket list seem to hold insane value. Are they great investments?


 I'm no economist, but that's how a market works. Higher demand keeps higher prices. 

You sound surprised that your bucket list cars are worth $$$. Like the guy in the traffic jam yelling "why is everyone on the road today?!!". You're part of the problem (for buyers, that is. Sellers love that everyone else loves your fave cars). 

I wouldn't say your cars are necessarily good investments. They could be, but the market changes, and cars go in and out of fashion.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Egz said:


> Picture is worth a thousand words.
> 
> 
> __
> Image uploading. Refresh page to view


 That answers the question for me too. But how are factory valve seats set up then?


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## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

I'll give this thread a shot. This has bugged me for years. Is it coincidental that FWD cars have more front overhang and RWD cars have less? Before you state the obvious (transmission placement, transverse vs. longitudinal engine arrangement), that's not always consistent. Then, maybe it's how a car's original orientation began? A awd a6/passat will always have more front overhang than say a 330ix/540ix, because the former were also FWD. So, I began just observing various cars and in general, this pattern applies. Most BMW, Mercedes and others that are predominantly and originally RWD have less front overhang than a Vw, Audi, or Volvo. But, where does Subaru fit in? Originally AWD, yet they have a longer overhang, even with symmetrical AWD and a flat boxer engine? What about Lexus? RWD but long overhang? I'm sure there must be some formula to this or is it just me?


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## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

rychas1 said:


> I'll give this thread a shot. This has bugged me for years. Is it coincidental that FWD cars have more front overhang and RWD cars have less? Before you state the obvious (transmission placement, transverse vs. longitudinal engine arrangement), that's not always consistent. Then, maybe it's how a car's original orientation began? A awd a6/passat will always have more front overhang than say a 330ix/540ix, because the former were also FWD. So, I began just observing various cars and in general, this pattern applies. Most BMW, Mercedes and others that are predominantly and originally RWD have less front overhang than a Vw, Audi, or Volvo. But, where does Subaru fit in? Originally AWD, yet they have a longer overhang, even with symmetrical AWD and a flat boxer engine? What about Lexus? RWD but long overhang? I'm sure there must be some formula to this or is it just me?


 most RWD cars are striving for a 50/50 weight distribution, so having the engine mounted as far back as possible is advantageous. engine mounted farther back = less front overhang.


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

I don't think it's that simple. There are other factors involved. I also disagree that most RWD cars are striving for 50/50 balance. There are other factors involved including aesthetics. 

As far as handling is concerned, the engine being closer to the center of the chassis isn't as important as its placement relative to the rest of the weight distributed throughout the chassis. 

Final piece of the puzzle is the practicality of assembly and whether it makes financial sense for a manufacturer to invest in extra design work for better chassis dynamics rather than saving money by just outputting cheaper designs.


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## NashGTI (Mar 8, 2006)

the front overhang is more because typically all front wheel drive cars position the engine in front of the front axle, it's just easier to package that way. Just about all transverse transmissions put the differential behind the input shaft. 

The cars like the Audi that have longitudinal engines with front wheel drive the drive axle sits behind the planetary gears. 

I honestly can't remember a fwd transverse setup that had the drive shaft in front of the engine sump, the closest I can get is the Mini where it went through the sump. But I don't there there is any greater reason behind it than it's just convention at this point.


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## 0302 (Aug 12, 2002)

Can you use a factory roof rack to support one end of a hammock and say use a tree for the other end? 

I don't think this would be a great idea, however someone I know tends to think it wouldn't cause an issue.


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

0302 said:


> Can you use a factory roof rack to support one end of a hammock and say use a tree for the other end?
> 
> I don't think this would be a great idea, however someone I know tends to think it wouldn't cause an issue.


I'd assume it depends on the weight limit of the rack.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Most racks are in the 150lbs area, and the tree takes half of the person's weight, so if they're under 300lbs it should be ok.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

VDub2625 said:


> Most racks are in the 150lbs area, and the tree takes half of the person's weight, so if they're under 300lbs it should be ok.


The only thing I'd be concerned with is that all of the force will be going sideways on the one rack "tower" instead of distributed evenly across all four like when you have a something on the roof.

What vehicle are we talking about? I probably wouldn't worry about it on something that has a stout rack like a Subaru, but probably wouldn't do it on something with a flimsier setup.


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## CodeMan (May 12, 2006)

The vector of force will put a large lateral load on the rack bar. If I tried that with my Passat the rail would probably rip clean out of the roof skin.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

That's true, but lateral loads exist (higher than rated weight because of G forces) when cornering too. I wouldn't be surprised if most racks are designed to handle that. 

You could always do a V shaped rope, tie one end to one rack, loop through the hammock, and tie the other end to the other rack to distribute the forces across them


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

A related question: What are the advantages of transverse engine mounting in a FWD car? It seems lost FWD cars have sideways engines, versus front/back orientation on RWD (with exceptions like the B5 Passat).


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Less front weight. if the engine is in front of the axle, the long way, it protrudes a ton more. You also need room for cooling and crash safety. Audis IIRC are the only holdout (and have been, traditionally) for longitudinal FWD and it has always been a hindrance, they are always pegged as nose-heavy. Though they did some new tech in the latest models I think, to more balance the weight.


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## 0302 (Aug 12, 2002)

adrew said:


> The only thing I'd be concerned with is that all of the force will be going sideways on the one rack "tower" instead of distributed evenly across all four like when you have a something on the roof.
> 
> What vehicle are we talking about? I probably wouldn't worry about it on something that has a stout rack like a Subaru, but probably wouldn't do it on something with a flimsier setup.


Vehicle in question is a Subaru Forester.

I was thinking the same thing about all forces being on one tower. It seems like this would creat an uneven force that could possibly cause issues.


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## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

If we're not supposed to use a cell phone NEAR gasoline, why is it OK to use a fuel pump motor IN gasoline??


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

cityjohn said:


> If we're not supposed to use a cell phone NEAR gasoline, why is it OK to use a fuel pump motor IN gasoline??


It's the fumes that are flamable/combustable, not the liquid itself. You can put out a lit match in a puddle of gasoline. The pump is submerged, so no risk.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I've wondered about the feeler arm on fuel gauges too. THose have a potential for spark.


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

0302 said:


> Vehicle in question is a Subaru Forester.
> 
> I was thinking the same thing about all forces being on one tower. It seems like this would creat an uneven force that could possibly cause issues.


Attach it to two (or more) using a bridle like I use for towing the Grady behind the Hatteras. Something like this:


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

Well, yeah - but, there's no real current flow there. Nor can there be - the wires are itty-bitty! 
Plus, the circuit often includes some kind of current limiting device (older VWs, and the 10v instrument voltage regulator being one example; and, pretty much any 'electronic cluster' has a current-limiting resistor on each of its sensor circuits. Keeps shorted wiring from frying the module.)


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

*FV-QR*

Are tinted tail lights legal? subject to local laws? I just noticed a newer civic Si with tinted tails on my way home from work and was just curious.


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## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

A.Wilder said:


> Are tinted tail lights legal? subject to local laws? I just noticed a newer civic Si with tinted tails on my way home from work and was just curious.


I think officers will sometimes cite "manufacturer-equipped only" as the rule. But in California the taillight requirement is that red light must be visible up to 1,000 feet. Don't know the definition of 'visible' however.


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## Snake Hips (Apr 16, 2012)

saron81 said:


> It's the fumes that are flamable/combustable, not the liquid itself. You can put out a lit match in a puddle of gasoline. The pump is submerged, so no risk.


Yes, only gasses and dusts are combustible, not liquids and solids. Same reason fuel level in airplanes is measured by passing electric current between two cathodes submerged in the fuel, using the fuel itself as the conductor between them. Cell phones are generators of static electricity, not remote exploders of fuel. Static spark + flammable vapor = the problem, not electricity + fuel.

On the conversation above about engine orientation: How does the clutch work on a manual transmission in a transverse orientation? If the engine is on top of the transmission instead of in front of it, how does the clutch connect with the flywheel and with the transmission?


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

Snake Hips said:


> Yes, only gasses and dusts are combustible, not liquids and solids. Same reason fuel level in airplanes is measured by passing electric current between two cathodes submerged in the fuel, using the fuel itself as the conductor between them. Cell phones are generators of static electricity, not remote exploders of fuel. Static spark + flammable vapor = the problem, not electricity + fuel.
> 
> On the conversation above about engine orientation: How does the clutch work on a manual transmission in a transverse orientation? If the engine is on top of the transmission instead of in front of it, how does the clutch connect with the flywheel and with the transmission?


The clutch setup is the same as a normal setup. The transmission primary and countershafts are arranged in such a way to 'move ' power down, eventually to the differential.


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## Snake Hips (Apr 16, 2012)

TurboWraith said:


> The clutch setup is the same as a normal setup. The transmission primary and countershafts are arranged in such a way to 'move ' power down, eventually to the differential.


I guess I mean a U-drive driveline setup where the transmission is under the engine rather than in-line with it.

So this:









Not this (as you describe):


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## Biff Beltsander (Jul 14, 2010)

Strange question here.
Might be towing a first gen diesel Smart 2,793 km's (1795 miles) approximately with a 2000 or so Subaru Legacy GT manual. Using a dolly so two smart wheels on the ground.
I'm not sure this is going to happen however the possibility is there and for that, does anyone have any input?
The Smart is probably not much heavier then a folding camper and I've seen twenty year old Corollas do fine with those so it's not the weight that I'm most concerned with however I've never towed a car (might go along for the trip) and would appreciate a few words of wisdom.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Those are RWD so the best towing setup is rear wheels up. You'd have to secure the steering, which most tow truck drivers do with the seatbelt tied to the wheel. You might want to find something more secure


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

Does anyone have a good explanation or even site describing the physics behind what to do in an oversteer situation? I kicked out the back end of the miata in the rain (going around a turn), and instinctively let off the throttle. 

Somebody told me I must stay on the throttle. I would like to practice this (somewhere without obstacles) - what is the correct thing to do in this situation?


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

sjt1985 said:


> Does anyone have a good explanation or even site describing the physics behind what to do in an oversteer situation? I kicked out the back end of the miata in the rain (going around a turn), and instinctively let off the throttle.
> 
> Somebody told me I must stay on the throttle. I would like to practice this (somewhere without obstacles) - what is the correct thing to do in this situation?


Lifting off the throttle will cause the weight of the car to shift forward. If you stay on the throttle the car wont have a sudden change of momentum and will be more predictable.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

sjt1985 said:


> Does anyone have a good explanation or even site describing the physics behind what to do in an oversteer situation? I kicked out the back end of the miata in the rain (going around a turn), and instinctively let off the throttle.
> 
> Somebody told me I must stay on the throttle. I would like to practice this (somewhere without obstacles) - what is the correct thing to do in this situation?


If you snap off the throttle, it can go around. I know it did on my old e30. Keep your foot stationary.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

So there's 2 ways to fix it. If you need to stop in an emergency, defensive driving instructors will tell you: "if you go into a spin, both feet in." Meaning clutch and brake.

If you want to maintain control and correct, stay in the throttle, counter steer into the direction you're travelling, look in the direction you want to go, and use the momentum with smooth inputs.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

> Does anyone have a good explanation or even site describing the physics behind what to do in an oversteer situation?


In a correctable situation, staying on the throttle is the right way. It takes time and practice to change your instinct, and learn how much throttle is the right amount. But that all assumes you can correct. Not all slides are fixable.

"Both feet in" will leave you in a predictable place. That's why they teach it at the track. Instead of over correcting, snapping back, and shooting back across the track (at a worse angle), collecting other innocent victims in the process before slamming into the inside wall... you just spin off the track at a generally straight trajectory, usually into the runoff area, where you clean your shorts, and get on with your day.


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## stascom (Sep 12, 2009)

How much would power output of an ICE be affected with raised intake air temperatures? Let's say we have a "200HP" N/A engine (however factory spec power output is calculated). What could one reasonably expect the power peak to be at 0F? 50F? 120F? 
Now, what about a turbo charged, intercooled engine?


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

stascom said:


> How much would power output of an ICE be affected with raised intake air temperatures? Let's say we have a "200HP" N/A engine (however factory spec power output is calculated). What could one reasonably expect the power peak to be at 0F? 50F? 120F?
> Now, what about a turbo charged, intercooled engine?


Excellent question...hopefully someone can answer it. :thumbup:


----------



## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

stascom said:


> How much would power output of an ICE be affected with raised intake air temperatures? Let's say we have a "200HP" N/A engine (however factory spec power output is calculated). What could one reasonably expect the power peak to be at 0F? 50F? 120F?
> Now, what about a turbo charged, intercooled engine?


I'll give it a shot... I think I'm doing the math correctly. :laugh:
Let's say the 200hp NA figure is achieved at 50f. (.078 density lb/ft)
At 100f you'd be down to 182 (.071 lb/ft), and at 150f (.065 lb/ft) you'd be down to 166.

I come up with the same drop at 10psi.


http://http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=air%20density%20by%20temperature%20table&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CGwQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.engineeringtoolbox.com%2Fair-temperature-pressure-density-d_771.html&ei=mwexT6zOOpT06AGMu6SgCQ&usg=AFQjCNHnhYnvDDR-a3rGq6VSb4NrZ-J_Dw


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

sjt1985 said:


> Does anyone have a good explanation or even site describing the physics behind what to do in an oversteer situation? I kicked out the back end of the miata in the rain (going around a turn), and instinctively let off the throttle.
> 
> Somebody told me I must stay on the throttle. * I would like to practice this (somewhere without obstacles)* - what is the correct thing to do in this situation?


No better place to get intimately acquainted with your Miata's handling than a local autocross event: http://www.thscc.com/general/info/calendar.php


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## elmer fud (Aug 5, 2003)

MrMook said:


> No better place to get intimately acquainted with your Miata's handling than a local autocross event: http://www.thscc.com/general/info/calendar.php


fellow miata owner here.... its different in every situation, the auto x comment is right its the best way to learn how to react to any situation. but on the street, 90% of the time the proper thing to do is counter steer, and maintain some throttle, don't let off completely, don't add throttle, counter steer and depending on how well thats working, try to loose speed wile maintaing control, if that makes sense. depending on how fast you are going, the more or less throttle you can ease off. if your going like 30 , counter steering and almost letting all the throttle would likely work, tho not allways, but if your going like 100 peg it counter steer and pray... just kidding.. but you best stay on the throttle or its going to end bad, real bad.


----------



## Pool Runner (Aug 17, 2009)

What does HPDE and DE stand for?


----------



## elmer fud (Aug 5, 2003)

cityjohn said:


> If we're not supposed to use a cell phone NEAR gasoline, why is it OK to use a fuel pump motor IN gasoline??


its simple, you need 3 things to light it off, fuel, spark, and air. the air fuel mix in the tank is to rich to light it off, you would need more oxygen in the tank. 

kinda like when you foul plugs in your motor. too much fuel makes in imposable to have a ignitable mixture.


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## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

Pool Runner said:


> What does HPDE and DE stand for?


High Performance Driving Event.

Douche Extraordinaire.


----------



## Pool Runner (Aug 17, 2009)

BRealistic said:


> High Performance Driving Event.
> 
> Douche Extraordinaire.


Cool thanks :thumbup:


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

MrMook said:


> No better place to get intimately acquainted with your Miata's handling than a *local *autocross event:


Local being the operative word there - Only 7 AutoX the whole year, and the site is over 2 hours away. I will look for something closer and more regular!


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## das internet (Jul 16, 2011)

When you blow a head gasket, you often get coolant mixing with the oil. Sure, you can fix the head gasket, but you had god knows how much WATER in your ENGINE for a period of time. How much additional wear and tear does that generally cause?


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

das internet said:


> When you blow a head gasket, you often get coolant mixing with the oil. Sure, you can fix the head gasket, but you had god knows how much WATER in your ENGINE for a period of time. How much additional wear and tear does that generally cause?


While it's certainly not good for the engine, it's generally not an issue, especially with a slow leak. Yes it will break down the oil, but in most cases, the oil to water ratio is low enough not to hurt anything. I've had fairly large, instant, catastrophic head gasket failures on a few 2.3 turbos, and the bottom ends were always fine after draining the milkshake out of the crankcase. FWIW... you engine oil will generally have some water in it from condensation, especially if you make a lot of short trips.


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## stascom (Sep 12, 2009)

saron81 said:


> I'll give it a shot... I think I'm doing the math correctly. :laugh:
> Let's say the 200hp NA figure is achieved at 50f. (.078 density lb/ft)
> At 100f you'd be down to 182 (.071 lb/ft), and at 150f (.065 lb/ft) you'd be down to 166.
> 
> ...


So you're saying there is linear correlation between power output and air density? Seems hard to believe. Wouldn't you notice a possible ~13% difference in power output between winter and summer?  I can't say I notice THAT much of a difference.


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

stascom said:


> So you're saying there is linear correlation between power output and air density? Seems hard to believe. Wouldn't you notice a possible ~13% difference in power output between winter and summer?  I can't say I notice THAT much of a difference.


I'm really not sure.


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

stascom said:


> So you're saying there is linear correlation between power output and air density? Seems hard to believe. Wouldn't you notice a possible ~13% difference in power output between winter and summer?  I can't say I notice THAT much of a difference.


you mean you _don't_ notice a difference between seasons?

i'm in south florida; it's normally 90+ degrees here with a ton of humidity.

on the 5-6 days of the year that the daytime temp drops to mid 70s, the cars behave extremely different.


the change in temp/density makes a HUGE difference. it's physics.


----------



## Ed52 (May 21, 2001)

*Is oil change needed for these conditions??*

1995 GTi Vr6, 150K miles, summer driven.
Last year I drove 2000 miles, no short distances, use Mobil 1 Synthetic , new OEM filter. Car was stored since November to May, not started in the winter. Now 6 months later the oil still looks fairly clean, motor runs cleanly(no missing or oil consumption, spark plugs clean). Do I really need to renew the oil this season?


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Ed52 said:


> 1995 GTi Vr6, 150K miles, summer driven.
> Last year I drove 2000 miles, no short distances, use Mobil 1 Synthetic , new OEM filter. Car was stored since November to May, not started in the winter. Now 6 months later the oil still looks fairly clean, motor runs cleanly(no missing or oil consumption, spark plugs clean). Do I really need to renew the oil this season?


i don't have winters down here (south Florida), so i don't really know the what the consequences are.

BUT, i would wonder if there's anything settling in the oil when it sits for so long.

if it looks good and runs fine, maybe no worries. but then, what does an oil change cost you?

is that cost prohibiting you from knowing for sure?


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## sicklyscott (Jun 24, 2002)

Ed52 said:


> 1995 GTi Vr6, 150K miles, summer driven.
> Last year I drove 2000 miles, no short distances, use Mobil 1 Synthetic , new OEM filter. Car was stored since November to May, not started in the winter. Now 6 months later the oil still looks fairly clean, motor runs cleanly(no missing or oil consumption, spark plugs clean). Do I really need to renew the oil this season?


My understanding is you should change your oil at least once a year regardless of miles. From what I've read acid builds up over time and cn cause excess corosion to bearings.


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

sicklyscott said:


> My understanding is you should change your oil at least once a year regardless of miles. From what I've read acid builds up over time and cn cause excess corosion to bearings.


The oil also picks up moisture from condensation. :thumbup:

If not now... I'd definately change it in a few thousand, or at least before you store it again.


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

*exhaust wrap and paint*

Question
Lets say one has a NA v8 engine with stainless steel headers

What can go wrong if you coat them with ceramic spray paint, and then wrap them with exhaust wrap?



biggest problem I heat about exhaust wrap is moisture being trapped

but my headers have been sand blasted, and will then be sprayed with a ceramic exhaust paint, out of a rattle can, so that should keep everything from rusting


follow up question, can one use a torch to cure the coating, putting headers into kitchen oven is out of the question


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

71DubBugBug said:


> Question
> Lets say one has a NA v8 engine with stainless steel headers
> 
> What can go wrong if you coat them with ceramic spray paint, and then wrap them with exhaust wrap?
> ...


If they're stainless, why are you worried about rust?

Also, the direct flame of a torch is no substitute for an oven. Try baking a birthday cake with a torch, and let us know how that goes.


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

MrMook said:


> If they're stainless, why are you worried about rust?
> 
> Also, the direct flame of a torch is no substitute for an oven. Try baking a birthday cake with a torch, and let us know how that goes.


Stainless can still rust.

Id just run. The engine through a few heat cycles to cure the paint.


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

TurboWraith said:


> Stainless can still rust.
> 
> Id just run. The engine through a few heat cycles to cure the paint.


engine is still being assembled, thats the only problem. 

In theory if careful, i could put the wrap over the dried ceramic paint, coat the wrap with silicone spray from dei, and then just let it all cure when i start the engine


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

71DubBugBug said:


> engine is still being assembled, thats the only problem.
> 
> In theory if careful, i could put the wrap over the dried ceramic paint, coat the wrap with silicone spray from dei, and then just let it all cure when i start the engine


Ah, yeah....stuff does scratch off easy before cured. You could always try a torch with a rosebud tip. It'll soot everything up, but that should clean off.


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## rabbitnothopper (Oct 19, 2009)

stascom said:


> So you're saying there is linear correlation between power output and air density? Seems hard to believe. Wouldn't you notice a possible ~13% difference in power output between winter and summer?  I can't say I notice THAT much of a difference.




yes actually

try driving through the desert a few times
daytime temps 100F+ night temps dropping 35-45F


or try living in texas regularly

summer 110F+
winter 0-20F

yes it DOES make a difference.


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## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

What is vehicular malfeasance?


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## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

rabbitnothopper said:


> yes actually
> 
> try driving through the desert a few times
> daytime temps 100F+ night temps dropping 35-45F
> ...


Expecially if a car is forced induction, much more power when it's cool.


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## stascom (Sep 12, 2009)

TwoLitreVW said:


> you mean you _don't_ notice a difference between seasons?
> 
> i'm in south florida; it's normally 90+ degrees here with a ton of humidity.
> 
> ...


That's not what I said. I said that I don't notice _that much_ of a difference. And I was questioning the correlation between air density and power output. Yes, there is a relationship, no doubt, thus my question. What I'm uncertain about is the type of relationship. Does twice the air really mean twice the power?



rabbitnothopper said:


> yes actually
> 
> try driving through the desert a few times
> daytime temps 100F+ night temps dropping 35-45F
> ...


I know it does. See above.



ThreadBomber said:


> Expecially if a car is forced induction, much more power when it's cool.


Most likely. But how much more?


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

stascom said:


> That's not what I said. I said that I don't notice _that much_ of a difference. And I was questioning the correlation between air density and power output. Yes, there is a relationship, no doubt, thus my question. What I'm uncertain about is the type of relationship. Does twice the air really mean twice the power?


The density of air vs. temperature isn't linear, but over the small range we're talking about, it can be approximated as such.

So the density is going to directly correlate to the amount of oxygen present in the intake charge, which then determines how much fuel can be injected. 

Also, Intake air is going to get heated before it gets to the combustion chamber by various things. By how much all depends on the car.
I feel that there will be more temperature rise on cold air than on hot air, assuming everything else is the same. (eg. 50 degree ambient passing through 150 degree intake components will heat up more than 100 degree ambient passing through the same intake components.) You're still getting cooler air to the engine, but just not 50 degrees cooler.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

TurboWraith said:


> Stainless can still rust.


I was going to ask this... my "stainless" exhaust has many brown spots, and looks like crap. But, it does have a lifetime warranty against falling apart, so I should be good there.

As for the density argument, all cars have a volume and temperature sensor in the intake, so the ECU can calculate the density into the fuel injection. I wonder if that has any effect on the power too.


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## das internet (Jul 16, 2011)

Has anyone here driven a vehicle with four-wheel drum brakes in traffic in a major city or on a 65 mph highway? Would this not be totally ludicrous?

What was the watershed year for disc brakes and why did it take so long?


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## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

das internet said:


> Has anyone here driven a vehicle with four-wheel drum brakes in traffic in a major city or on a 65 mph highway? Would this not be totally ludicrous?
> 
> What was the watershed year for disc brakes and why did it take so long?


Yes, and lived to tell about it!

-Commuting for about a year in Baltimore traffic.
-65mph highway trips to drag strips.
-Hard stops from 95mph while bracket racing
-I'm still alive.

Around 1975 was the end of 4-wheel drums. I don't know why it took so long, other than that it is cheaper to make drum and shoes than discs and pads. Many vehicles still have rear drums.


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## deagle (Feb 22, 2011)

i read that some hypermilers sometimes shift the autotransmission from drive into neutral and let the car glide

i was curious if this method actually saves gas, or if there could be more harm done than good, such as wearing out the transmission prematurely.

i drive the 2.slow mk4 jetta ... so no shiftable automatic or anything


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## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

deagle said:


> i read that some hypermilers sometimes shift the autotransmission from drive into neutral and let the car glide
> 
> i was curious if this method actually saves gas, or if there could be more harm done than good, such as wearing out the transmission prematurely.
> 
> i drive the 2.slow mk4 jetta ... so no shiftable automatic or anything


They are actually using more gas. 

Most cars made in about the last eight or ten years use NO gas when coasting while in gear. None. In neutral, you need to use fuel to keep the engine idling.


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

ThreadBomber said:


> They are actually using more gas.
> 
> Most cars made in about the last eight or ten years use NO gas when coasting while in gear. None. In neutral, you need to use fuel to keep the engine idling.


This is not necessarily true on automatic models. Unless the transmission has a feature to insure that the transmission stays locked together or has the ability to create pressure from the d-shaft alone, most automatics need to stay running to keep the pump pressure high enough to keep the car in gear. 

You're correct on manuals, they usually have an overrun cut. This is often not the case on auto's though, especially automatics that were based on older technology updated with new software. Some may, but there are many that do not.


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## deagle (Feb 22, 2011)

ravera said:


> This is not necessarily true on automatic models. Unless the transmission has a feature to insure that the transmission stays locked together or has the ability to create pressure from the d-shaft alone, most automatics need to stay running to keep the pump pressure high enough to keep the car in gear.
> 
> You're correct on manuals, they usually have an overrun cut. This is often not the case on auto's though, especially automatics that were based on older technology updated with new software. Some may, but there are many that do not.


i wish my base 2.slow had a reading 

my schedule changes so much weekly that its negilible it seems (during the school yr)

i have a 40hr workweek, so thats stable, so i guess i'll try it out

only thing is, if i leave the car in neutral from a dead stop, i'll tend to gas it up ...... in contrast to if the brakes were applied, the car would start rolling forwards

if its a slight improvement on gas mileage (despite spirited driving), would there be damage to the automatic transmission if the car shifts from drive to neutral ???


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## Trike Kid (Sep 28, 2008)

deagle said:


> i wish my base 2.slow had a reading
> 
> my schedule changes so much weekly that its negilible it seems (during the school yr)
> 
> ...


No, putting your transmission in neutral isn't going to damage the car. BUT some automatic models will not drop to their true idle while rolling in neutral, so quite literally, your mileage may vary using this method.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

ThreadBomber said:


> In neutral, you need to use fuel to keep the engine idling.


In overrun, you need to erode momentum to keep the engine turning at high RPMs. You may burn no fuel, but you'll burn a lot of fuel getting back up to speed, since most hills are not steep enough to allow overrun without losing speed.

In neutral, you need a very small amount of fuel to keep the engine running at low RPMs. You burn a small amount of fuel as you coast down the hill, but don't have to re-accelerate when you get to the bottom. It doesn't' take much of a hill to maintain momentum when coasting in Neutral.

Both techniques have their place, and it depends depends entirely on the situation. But the entire system, over the entire drive has to be considered.


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## pknopp (Dec 28, 2011)

das internet said:


> Has anyone here driven a vehicle with four-wheel drum brakes in traffic in a major city or on a 65 mph highway? Would this not be totally ludicrous?
> 
> What was the watershed year for disc brakes and why did it take so long?


 I do it quite often.

I drove a 54 Chevy as a daily driver for 2-3 years not long ago. I ride a motorcycle with front and rear drum brakes. The trick is to not be an idiot. 

The current vehicle is a 56 Pontiac. I had it out most of the day yesterday. On occasion I'll drive it to work. (50 mile mixed driving round trip).


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

So I've heard mixed things. A good friend of ours builds street rods, usually with SBC's, he says when you get a new engine drive it like you're going to drive it right away, no need to break it in. Just change the oil after the first 500 miles.

Other people say take it easy for 500 miles, don't tow, no high rpm's, etc. 

I'm asking because I'm getting a work truck back tomorrow with a new 350 in it, the 305 blew so I stepped up. (I'm actually amazed at how cheap it was, $1,250 after core)

So what do you guys think? No break in period just change the oil, or baby it for 500 miles?


----------



## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

das internet said:


> Has anyone here driven a vehicle with four-wheel drum brakes in traffic in a major city or on a 65 mph highway? Would this not be totally ludicrous?
> 
> What was the watershed year for disc brakes and why did it take so long?


Yes, and it wasn't as bad as most would expect. In daily non-panic stops, you'd hardly know any difference. They do fade much easier after repeated stops, but I never felt in danger. Even today, rear drums are FINE. Everyone complains about rear drums, but unless you are tracking the car...I'd bet 99.8% of people would never realize the rears were drum.


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## Dubai Vol (Jan 8, 2002)

> So what do you guys think? No break in period just change the oil, or baby it for 500 miles?


http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I tend to agree with this guy. I remember Car & Driver collecting three new Lamborghinis from the factory and driving them to England, I think it was. They mentioned varying the engine speed to help the break-in process. I also agree that large throttle openings are going to help the rings seat properly. You might stay off the rev limiter for a bit, but other wide I would drive it with large throttle openings and avoid constant-speed running very early on.


----------



## Egz (May 30, 2002)

My '66 Mustang had 4-wheel drum brakes. The first time the throttle got stuck open, I paniced and stomped the brakes (hey, I was 17 at the time  ). Managed to bring it to a halt. Not sure if it was because the brakes were that powerful, or the 200ci I-6 and 3-speed cruise-o-matic was that weak. (I'm thinking option 2  ).


----------



## Aonarch (Dec 4, 2006)

Dubai Vol said:


> http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
> 
> I tend to agree with this guy. I remember Car & Driver collecting three new Lamborghinis from the factory and driving them to England, I think it was. They mentioned varying the engine speed to help the break-in process. I also agree that large throttle openings are going to help the rings seat properly. You might stay off the rev limiter for a bit, but other wide I would drive it with large throttle openings and avoid constant-speed running very early on.


His article is pretty good, but a bit overkill due to it being written for track motorcycles. 

For a car I would stay away from the redline for at least 500-1000 miles. Vary your engine speed (RPM), not vehicle speed (MPH), do not use cruise control for 1000 miles. Every now and then shift down and give it hell, or at a stop light smooth through first and quick acceleration in 2nd and 3rd. You can change your oil at 500 or a 1000, but metal processes are so fine now-a-days I wouldn't worry about it.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

StormChaser said:


> Everyone complains about rear drums, but unless you are tracking the car...I'd bet 99.8% of people would never realize the rears were drum.


I hated replacing the drum shoes on my Mk2 so much that I vowed that I'd never own a car with them again.

I'm sure that today, with 20+ more years of experience, I could do the job without much drama, but those early experiences stay with you.


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## Jeisin (Aug 16, 2008)

Car MKV jetta
Suspension: Koni Coilovers

Wheels 

18x8 45 

245/40/18

Will they fit?


----------



## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

das internet said:


> Has anyone here driven a vehicle with four-wheel drum brakes in traffic in a major city or on a 65 mph highway? Would this not be totally ludicrous?
> 
> What was the watershed year for disc brakes and why did it take so long?


 Dunno about highway, but I daily a Daihatsu kei car (550cc 2-cylinder 22hp, around 1000lbs) with four wheel drums. The only real noticable parts are fade when the drums get hot and the wheels locking much easier when you mash the pedal due to the leading shoe jamming against the drum. Otherwise, there's no real difference (on such a light car, anyway). 

:beer:


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## Dubai Vol (Jan 8, 2002)

> the leading shoe jamming against the drum.


 That's actually a deliberate design feature: self-energizing brakes. On really big heavy cars they will arrange for both shoes to be self-energizing. As you note, it makes the brakes far more...responsive.


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## l5gcw0b (Mar 3, 2000)

das internet said:


> Has anyone here driven a vehicle with four-wheel drum brakes in traffic in a major city or on a 65 mph highway? Would this not be totally ludicrous?
> 
> What was the watershed year for disc brakes and why did it take so long?


 
My '71 Super Beetle, was 4-wheel drum brakes. I drove it to school and work for years. Eventually I installed Porterfield R4S shoes all-around. I even did great auto-X'ing it. Drums really only suck if you are on a track for extended periods. A 60second auto-X barely heated them. Plus they need to be adjusted a lot.


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## Snake Hips (Apr 16, 2012)

das internet said:


> Has anyone here driven a vehicle with four-wheel drum brakes in traffic in a major city or on a 65 mph highway? Would this not be totally ludicrous?
> 
> What was the watershed year for disc brakes and why did it take so long?


 Why would it be ludicrous? The only real detriment is that they fade faster. Otherwise you won't notice a difference daily-ing it, especially not in traffic. And since the design is such that the leading shoe wedges itself against the drum, it slows and stops very quickly from highway speeds. I drive a 1964 F-250, which as you can guess weighs 4-and-a-half thousand pounds, and with a single-pot master cylinder and without a vacuum booster you gotta' have some quads to brake, but the brakes work wonderfully, mostly because the aforementioned wedging action causes a servo effect, increasing brake pressure with less pressure on the pedal. 

The watershed year for disc brakes would be World War II, when they were implemented on almost all aircraft. They weren't popular before because materials and processes of the time weren't very good, and no disc brake produced was nearly as good as a drum in most any respect.


----------



## Druggedpolak (Sep 28, 2008)

Jeisin said:


> Car MKV jetta
> Suspension: Koni Coilovers
> 
> Wheels
> ...


 This is 255/35/18 18x8.5 et 45 








So that wheels "sticks out" 6mm more than your wheels will. 
Dan GSR also said that: 

Any wider of a rim, and it would rub. 
Any lower of an offset, and it would rub. et45-50 is perfect for the rear 
any wider of a tire, and it would rub 
any taller of a tire, and it would rub 

andddd he ran maximum negative camber that the stock rear allows you to. 

I would say that they will fit if you remove the front fender screws + bend the tab and won't rub if you roll the front a bit.:beer:


----------



## Slayer (Aug 8, 2000)

efrie said:


> So I've heard mixed things. A good friend of ours builds street rods, usually with SBC's, he says when you get a new engine drive it like you're going to drive it right away, no need to break it in. Just change the oil after the first 500 miles.
> 
> Other people say take it easy for 500 miles, don't tow, no high rpm's, etc.
> 
> ...


 


Dubai Vol said:


> http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
> 
> I tend to agree with this guy. I remember Car & Driver collecting three new Lamborghinis from the factory and driving them to England, I think it was. They mentioned varying the engine speed to help the break-in process. I also agree that large throttle openings are going to help the rings seat properly. You might stay off the rev limiter for a bit, but other wide I would drive it with large throttle openings and avoid constant-speed running very early on.





Aonarch said:


> His article is pretty good, but a bit overkill due to it being written for track motorcycles.
> 
> For a car I would stay away from the redline for at least 500-1000 miles. Vary your engine speed (RPM), not vehicle speed (MPH), do not use cruise control for 1000 miles. Every now and then shift down and give it hell, or at a stop light smooth through first and quick acceleration in 2nd and 3rd. You can change your oil at 500 or a 1000, but metal processes are so fine now-a-days I wouldn't worry about it.


 Get it fired up, and take it easy until the oil is up to temp, then let it rip. Don't be an idiot about it, but use the engine as it was made for. Babying it does nothing to help anything seat, and you only get one chance to break it in properly


----------



## Snake Hips (Apr 16, 2012)

Slayer said:


> Get it fired up, and take it easy until the oil is up to temp, then let it rip. Don't be an idiot about it, but use the engine as it was made for. Babying it does nothing to help anything seat, and you only get one chance to break it in properly


 You have to do it both ways, too; meaning lots of revvy engine braking.


----------



## Slayer (Aug 8, 2000)

^ yup, absolutely. I usually explain it, but I figured the article was linked, so they could read it themselves. :thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

How come some cars have such EXTREME camber changes when turning the wheels to lock, and others don't? Suspension design? Is this beneficial, bad, or negligible?


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## Labrite34 (Mar 30, 2008)

1. In regards to HP numbers: 
assume you go WOT through 1st, and shift into 2nd. 
now assume you go half throttle through 1st until the last few hundred RPM, then slam WOT, but shift at the same RPM into 2nd. 
Is the HP going to be the same? Or does the WOT THROUGHOUT 1st mean higher HP at the end of 1st and consequently into 2nd. 

2. If you have two cars with identical maximum HP performance, one is NA and one is Turbocharged. Is the NA car going to have more HP at 50% throttle, or is that simply a tuning thing in the case of the turbo (to get a stronger hold on boost or something?)


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Your first question is a bit nonsensical... the car makes what power it makes, not dependent on what was happening before. If you slam the throttle or hold WOT all the way through, at X RPM (and WOT) it's making the same power. 

The second is dependent on engine design. Power isn't linear, it's different for every different engine. Peaks change, curves can be steep or flat... also, calculating power from different throttle inputs is a bit silly too. Also depends on how the throttle is tuned.


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## GDOGGTI (Jan 23, 2010)

Quick question that popped into my head when looking at my boost gauge today. *On the boost gauge it reads "Vacuum" and "Boost". What is the difference/meaning between these two??* 
I used to think Vacuum was when the turbo is not spooled and it is sucking in air and Boost is when it is sending the pressure/doing work out into the engine. However that was quickly dismissed since you need to suck in air in order to send the pressure into the engine simultaneously. 

*So how does it work when the boost gauge is reading these "negative" numbers and then the positive ones??*


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Seems to me your question is more about what the guage is measuring.

The boost guage is reading current manifold pressure.

When pressure is positive, as in under boost, you see positive psi measurement.

When manifold pressure is not positive, you see a measurement of boost in inches.


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## GDOGGTI (Jan 23, 2010)

TwoLitreVW said:


> Seems to me your question is more about what the guage is measuring.
> 
> The boost guage is reading current manifold pressure.
> 
> ...


 I see, so it's always boost? and it's always going in the same direction right? thats sort of confusing lol


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Re: steering angle: I've always heard that it enables a tighter turning radius, usually in reference to Mercedes cars that can successfully navigate tight underground parking garages.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

Why do AM stations go "bzzzzt" when I drive under some bridges?


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## TransconIII (Mar 8, 2012)

Objects can cast sort of a 'radio shadow', so you can not receive if something is directly between you and a transmitter. However, this 'shadow' is finite, kind of like if you put a rock in a very shallow, fast flowing stream: the rock may sort of separate the water for an inch or two, but the water closes back in only an inch or so behind it. This is far more apparent with AM radio, which uses long, relatively low frequency waves. FM uses a higher frequency, which doesn't carry over long distances, but is more able to transmit through obstacles or reflect off of them in all directions, making it easier to receive under the same bridge that would silence your AM radio.


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## P-Body (Mar 18, 2007)

How do scheduled maintenance requirements work if you're turning in a lease generally? 

We returned our Saturn without having done a scheduled plug change 15,000 kilometers prior, but weren't hassled at all. My dad had to pony up for an oil change on his MB before giving it back. Seems pretty random.


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

VDub2625 said:


> How come some cars have such EXTREME camber changes when turning the wheels to lock, and others don't? Suspension design? Is this beneficial, bad, or negligible?


 That's castor; the angle that the suspension/shock/strut pivots on. 

It changes steering feel and (to some level) grip. More castor means the wheels with want to self-center more since they want to 'fall' back upright. This also results in heavier steering since at low speeds, you are essentially lifting a corner of the car up onto the corner of the tire (not really since sidewalls flex, but you get the point). 

When cornering with no castor, the tire wants to fold over onto the sidewall. With some castor, since, the tire is leaning into the corner, it will fall back onto the tread with the cornering forces. 

A lot of old European cars have this, I'm guessing to encourage high speed stability and steering feel on their higher speed highways. 

:beer:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

GDOGGTI said:


> I see, so it's always boost? and it's always going in the same direction right? thats sort of confusing lol


 It's always going the same way, it's just a difference of, is the engine sucking the air in, or is the turbo forcing it in? 

The gauge reads in relation to atmospheric pressure. When the throttle is not so open, the turbo boosts less (because less air is passing through the exhaust), and the engine acts like a normal NA engine: the manifold pressure is less then air (vacuum). When you put the throttle down more, more air gets in, which means more air out to spin the turbo, which means a pressure put on the intake air increases (the turbo acts like a lever, a modest increase in exhaust pressure means bigger intake pressure). This increases the pressure from negative, then equal to atmospheric, and finally into positive (turbo "spools up"). Now the turbo is cramming air into the intake faster than the engine is sucking it, and the pressure is positive. 

The wastegate monitors the intake pressure and when it reaches a set point, "bleeds" exhaust air past the turbo so it doesn't continue spooling. BOVs do the same thing on the intake, bleeding extra pressure to atmosphere. 

I'm no techie with turbos, but this is how I understand it  

Thanks for the caster info :thumbup:


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## Snake Hips (Apr 16, 2012)

VDub2625 said:


> It's always going the same way, it's just a difference of, is the engine sucking the air in, or is the turbo forcing it in?
> 
> The gauge reads in relation to atmospheric pressure. When the throttle is not so open, the turbo boosts less (because less air is passing through the exhaust), and the engine acts like a normal NA engine: the manifold pressure is less then air (vacuum). When you put the throttle down more, more air gets in, which means more air out to spin the turbo, which means a pressure put on the intake air increases (the turbo acts like a lever, a modest increase in exhaust pressure means bigger intake pressure). This increases the pressure from negative, through equal, and finally into positive (turbo "spools up"). Now the turbo is cramming air into the intake faster than the engine is sucking it, and the pressure is positive.
> 
> ...


 This is how I understand it, but I always then wonder how vacuum systems work on FI engines. For example, the brake booster operates by engine vacuum, so in a FI car, when the manifold pressure goes from vacuum to positive pressure, what happens to the brake booster? The brakes obviously don't become harder, so where does the booster get its vacuum?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Snake Hips said:


> This is how I understand it, but I always then wonder how vacuum systems work on FI engines. For example, the brake booster operates by engine vacuum, so in a FI car, when the manifold pressure goes from vacuum to positive pressure, what happens to the brake booster? The brakes obviously don't become harder, so where does the booster get its vacuum?


 I believe they usually have a vacuum reservior, since the car is only in boost in higher power situations, not cruising or coasting. A one-way valve would allow vacuum to pass but not pressure the other way.


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

Snake Hips said:


> This is how I understand it, but I always then wonder how vacuum systems work on FI engines. For example, the brake booster operates by engine vacuum, so in a FI car, when the manifold pressure goes from vacuum to positive pressure, what happens to the brake booster? The brakes obviously don't become harder, so where does the booster get its vacuum?


 Vacuum happens when the intake is sucking air from the manifold when the throttle is closed. So as long as the throttle is closed, you are making vacuum even if the turbo is spooled (BOV handles the pressure pre-TB). So unless you have your foot on the throttle and on the brake at the same time, there is vacuum. Think about how you drive. When braking you release your foot from the throttle, then the butterfly is closed. Now the pistons are sucking a closed manifold creating vacuum, then press the brakes.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

TransconIII said:


> Objects can cast sort of a 'radio shadow', so you can not receive if something is directly between you and a transmitter. However, this 'shadow' is finite, kind of like if you put a rock in a very shallow, fast flowing stream: the rock may sort of separate the water for an inch or two, but the water closes back in only an inch or so behind it. This is far more apparent with AM radio, which uses long, relatively low frequency waves. FM uses a higher frequency, which doesn't carry over long distances, but is more able to transmit through obstacles or reflect off of them in all directions, making it easier to receive under the same bridge that would silence your AM radio.


 probably the most thoughtful and helpful first or second post, ever. :thumbup: :beer:


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

regarding the break in period on an engine 

person who assembled my short block recommended that once its started run it for 15 minutes at 1500ish rpm, dump the oil, drive it for 50 miles at different rmp, no highway cruising, dump the oil, then anover 250 miles and dump the oil 
all of this on conventional, non synthetic break in oil 

this might have been mentioned in the article, but once you let a new engine warm up to operating temp, wont revving it increase the pressure on the piston rings causing them to seat faster?


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

It will cause more friction on the seats which may not be properly lubricated. Will they expand to fill the seat placement faster? Sure. But it will cause catastrophic damage to the piston walls and rings. Scratching, gouging, even its done enough you may even crack a ring. Follow the builders break in instructions. Its for your own good. 

+1 to conventional break in oil 
+1 to frequent changes before its broken in.


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## Cousin Eddie (Dec 17, 2005)

Why do the fog lights turn off when you put the high beams on? 

I know there are ways to make them stay on or even leave the low beams on but I've always wondered the reasoning behind this from the manufacturers.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

^ If it's foggy, there's no reason to have your high beams on.


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## Snake Hips (Apr 16, 2012)

SirSpectre said:


> Vacuum happens when the intake is sucking air from the manifold when the throttle is closed. So as long as the throttle is closed, you are making vacuum even if the turbo is spooled (BOV handles the pressure pre-TB). So unless you have your foot on the throttle and on the brake at the same time, there is vacuum. Think about how you drive. When braking you release your foot from the throttle, then the butterfly is closed. Now the pistons are sucking a closed manifold creating vacuum, then press the brakes.


Awesome, thank you!


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

Adam144 said:


> Why do the fog lights turn off when you put the high beams on?
> 
> I know there are ways to make them stay on or even leave the low beams on but I've always wondered the reasoning behind this from the manufacturers.


 Because regulations require this. 

And, as adrew mentioned, there's the common-sense thing:
_fog_ lights are for use in _foggy_ conditions (at least, that's all they're supposed to be used in.)
Since you don't use high beams in fog (or, you really shouldn't be!), no need for the fogs to be on with high beams.


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

TwoLitreVW said:


> When manifold pressure is not positive, you see a measurement of boost in inches.


 Don't you mean VACUUM in inches? If the manifold is not under positive pressure (boost), it would be under vacuum.


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

cuppie said:


> And, as adrew mentioned, there's the common-sense thing:
> _fog_ lights are for use in _foggy_ conditions (at least, that's all they're supposed to be used in.)
> Since you don't use high beams in fog (or, you really shouldn't be!), no need for the fogs to be on with high beams.


This more than regulations...only idiots drive around with fogs AND high beams on. And only idiots use fog beams in clear conditions.


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## Fisherson (Dec 22, 2008)

Will 205/50R15s fit on a 6" wide wheel?

The car in question:









(I've put plates on it since then. Hah.)

Please say yes.


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

Fisherson said:


> Will 205/50R15s fit on a 6" wide wheel
> 
> Please say yes.


Yes.


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## Fisherson (Dec 22, 2008)

drecian said:


> Yes.


Are you just saying yes because I asked you to?


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Fisherson said:


> Are you just saying yes because I asked you to?


No. The answer is yes.


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

Lol thats the recommended size for a 6 inch wheel.


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## Fisherson (Dec 22, 2008)

Awesome. Thanks, guys.

(Bought it with 195 section Fuzion terribles on.)


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## helement2003 (Aug 3, 2004)

So I've got a really stupid one that I believe I know the answer to...but want to confirm:

I drove my brothers 2005 Ford Explorer for a couple days, and couldn't help but notice the sound of what I think is the cooling fan getting faster/louder with RPM. Then at other times, nearly no noise out of it.

I assume this is a clutch driven fan attached somewhere on the accessory line?


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

The fan has a bit of a thermostat on it. If you look at an engine driven fan (most of them), they have a hydraulic fan clutch. It's covered in fins and has a bimetallic strip. As the engine heats up, the air going through the rad does as well. This heats the bi-metallic coil which uncoils turning a shaft in the center which then makes the fan clutch engage. Once the engine cools down, the radiator air does as well, and the metallic strip re-coils, moving the shaft, and disengaging the viscous clutch.

Edit: and yes, it's accessory driven. On most american cars it's driven off the water pump while other times it has its own idler.


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## dorkage (Jul 7, 2009)

Sorry for all the MK4 content, but two questions...


Rear struts are blown, FK Streetlines. Will Koni STR.Ts work OK on the Jetta, or is it too low for them? I ordered a set of the Koni's for my wagon along with some FK 55/40 springs, the price was right for the Koni's($70 a corner for the wagon, $50 each for the rear of the sedan), so I'm considering them for the Jetta, but I'm worried the Jetta will be too low for the STR.Ts.


OZ Hydra's 17x8j. They have 225/50/17s on them right now, a bit oversized. They rub on my front coils a fair amount on the Jetta(but fit fine on the Golf with OEM VR6 Jetta suspension), will 225/45/17s be significantly less bulgey? If they don't fit with the coils they will live on the wagon, as seen below...

And yes, the springs and struts I got were wagon specific.

Again, sorry for all the MK4 content, I know how much you love these cars....


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

dorkage said:


> Sorry for all the MK4 content, but two questions...
> 
> Rear struts are blown, FK Streetlines. Will Koni STR.Ts work OK on the Jetta, or is it too low for them? I ordered a set of the Koni's for my wagon along with some FK 55/40 springs, the price was right for the Koni's($70 a corner for the wagon, $50 each for the rear of the sedan), so I'm considering them for the Jetta, but I'm worried the Jetta will be too low for the STR.Ts.


It will be fine. Probably less low than the FK's. 



> OZ Hydra's 17x8j. They have 225/50/17s on them right now, a bit oversized. They rub on my front coils a fair amount on the Jetta(but fit fine on the Golf with OEM VR6 Jetta suspension), will 225/45/17s be significantly less bulgey? If they don't fit with the coils they will live on the wagon, as seen below...


The problem with rubbing is that your tires are too wide and your offset is too low. Changing to a 225/45 tire will pretty much just decrease the overall tire height. It will probably still rub. You either need to get spacers on your wheels (Do you know the current offset?) or downgrade to something like a 205/50 tire.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Can we please stop the silly tire and suspension fitment questions? That could be answered in the proper forum really easily. This thread is so much better than that.


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## dorkage (Jul 7, 2009)

> The problem with rubbing is that your tires are too wide and your offset is too low. Changing to a 225/45 tire will pretty much just decrease the overall tire height. It will probably still rub. You either need to get spacers on your wheels (Do you know the current offset?) or downgrade to something like a 205/50 tire.


Offset is 35. I have 10mm spacers, but they wobble on the highway. I was thinking about the 205/50s, for better economy, but I plan on having 300lbs/ft from the TDI, so I don't know how they will do compared to the 225. Another thought I had was 225/45 fronts and 205/50 rears on both my VR6 and the TDI, combined with a rear sway, it should give me slight power off oversteer, no? 



> Can we please stop the silly tire and suspension fitment questions? That could be answered in the proper forum really easily. This thread is so much better than that.


Ouch Jason, ouch. Talking like that isn't going to help me rescue the Helios from Ben!!!! Yes, I'm still trying, his dad is being cranky about it.


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

Ok I have one that was bugging me. I have never seen/been in a RHD manual car. How are the gears setup for shifting for it? Is 1st still on the top left, or would it switch to top right?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Same place. You'd have to redesign the transmission's internals to change gear pattern.


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## Eightysixturbo (Jul 18, 2011)

Why don't cars have adjustable steering weight/tightness?


I thought there were some with it, is it just not popular?


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## Diamond Dave (Mar 24, 2001)

Eightysixturbo said:


> Why don't _more_ cars have adjustable steering weight/tightness/


It's complex.
It's a costly feature.
It would add costly maintenance to vehicle ownership.
Most people wouldn't notice..


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## Ed52 (May 21, 2001)

*Losing wheel bolt or nut*

I was checking the wheel bolt torque on my Vw and found one bolt missing. It's possible I missed tightenting one bolt to specs recently after a wheel change.
What is the physics involved in a bolt or nut that causes it to loosen(and become disengaged from it's threaded partner) rather than tighten in reference to a spinning wheel?


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

Ed52 said:


> I was checking the wheel bolt torque on my Vw and found one bolt missing. It's possible I missed tightenting one bolt to specs recently after a wheel change.
> What is the physics involved in a bolt or nut that causes it to loosen(and become disengaged from it's threaded partner) rather than tighten in reference to a spinning wheel?


Vibrations.


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## Ed52 (May 21, 2001)

Ed52 said:


> I was checking the wheel bolt torque on my Vw and found one bolt missing. It's possible I missed tightenting one bolt to specs recently after a wheel change.
> What is the physics involved in a bolt or nut that causes it to loosen(and become disengaged from it's threaded partner) rather than tighten in reference to a spinning wheel?


 If it's vibration that causes unthreading how would a left handed threaded nut/bolt react under the same conditions? 

What was the reason behind the left handed wheel nuts on the 60's Chrysler vehicles?


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## bastion72 (Jan 5, 2002)

I went to the Porsche website to build my own. They only have a few, Cayman, Boxer, and Porsche 911. Then I see the new Porsche thread and they are tossing numbers around 9xx and such. Can someone explain why they only have 911 on their website but the users here are saying "nice 9xx"?


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## clutchrider (Dec 11, 2010)

StormChaser said:


> This more than regulations...only idiots drive around with fogs AND high beams on. And only idiots use fog beams in clear conditions.





cuppie said:


> Because regulations require this.
> 
> And, as adrew mentioned, there's the common-sense thing:
> _fog_ lights are for use in _foggy_ conditions (at least, that's all they're supposed to be used in.)
> Since you don't use high beams in fog (or, you really shouldn't be!), no need for the fogs to be on with high beams.


 I'm that guy who has fogs on at night regardless of the conditions. I think it started back in my F&F days when having aftermarket fog lamps was key and driving around with parks and fogs on at dusk was the "cool" thing to do when you went to parking lots or cruising around the town. Of course I also just love the way the car looks with both on. I get more mad that I have to turn them on each time I put my headlamps on (pull knob out) and wish they would just stay on with headlights. 

That being said, you can also get "both" highs and fogs to stay on by feathering the high beam stalk. If you hold it at the right point it will keep everything on.  



Now for a question; 

With all the rules, regulations, laws, etc. surrounding driving (especially lately with things like distracted driving being taken up by politicians). Why has there not been any kind of push towards more regulation with driver's education programs and requirements. I would think that nipping the problem from the start when someone is learning to drive through a stricter program that covers A LOT more than the typical classroom, drive days, less than involved DMV testing protocols; would be more practical and yield better results. 

So what's the issue? Are they just blind, power hungry to get their own laws passed and look like hero's, or is it that hard to do a revamp of the system? 

My only conclusion is that since other countries have a government run program (Germany), and we are based upon each individual state making up the programs and licensing that it gets so ****** up.


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

clutchrider said:


> Now for a question;
> 
> With all the rules, regulations, laws, etc. surrounding driving (especially lately with things like distracted driving being taken up by politicians). Why has there not been any kind of push towards more regulation with driver's education programs and requirements. I would think that nipping the problem from the start when someone is learning to drive through a stricter program that covers A LOT more than the typical classroom, drive days, less than involved DMV testing protocols; would be more practical and yield better results.
> 
> ...


 Because its not about safety. Its about votes and money. 

Extra training would be too expensive. And, if it worked, it would cost the states money because of fewer infractions.


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

Ed52 said:


> If it's vibration that causes unthreading how would a left handed threaded nut/bolt react under the same conditions?
> 
> What was the reason behind the left handed wheel nuts on the 60's Chrysler vehicles?


 It takes less force to loosen a bolt than tighten it. But properly torquing bolts should mostly negate that problem. And I don't know specifics but they were doing a lot of weird experimental things in the 60's.


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## Giovanni (May 13, 2000)

This model year is the first time in the history of the VW Golf and Jetta that those two cars do not share the same platform?


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

Giovanni said:


> This model year is the first time in the history of the VW Golf and Jetta that those two cars do not share the same platform?


 Nope, they're both built off the A5 chassis.


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## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

VDub2625 said:


> Can we please stop the silly tire and suspension fitment questions? That could be answered in the proper forum really easily. This thread is so much better than that.


 I mean, the whole point of this thread is to ask questions that are too embarrassing to ask anywhere else!


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## clutchrider (Dec 11, 2010)

Giovanni said:


> This model year is the first time in the history of the VW Golf and Jetta that those two cars do not share the same platform?





mellbergVWfan said:


> Nope, they're both built off the A5 chassis.


 My guess is they are referring to the design/styling than platform. I don't recall what generation the Golf/Jetta had different looks from the front end until now. Except for the Sportwagen.


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

clutchrider said:


> My guess is they are referring to the design/styling than platform. I don't recall what generation the Golf/Jetta had different looks from the front end until now. Except for the Sportwagen.


 Mk4? Mk3?


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## d_98se (Jun 19, 2007)

bastion72 said:


> I went to the Porsche website to build my own. They only have a few, Cayman, Boxer, and Porsche 911. Then I see the new Porsche thread and they are tossing numbers around 9xx and such. Can someone explain why they only have 911 on their website but the users here are saying "nice 9xx"?


 Those 9xx identifiers are Porsche internal designations for 911 models manufactured and sold between certain years.


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## bastion72 (Jan 5, 2002)

d_98se said:


> Those 9xx identifiers are Porsche internal designations for 911 models manufactured and sold between certain years.


 Ah, thanks.


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

d_98se said:


> Those 9xx identifiers are Porsche internal designations for Nearly All models


 ftfy 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Porsche#Models


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

clutchrider said:


> That being said, you can also get "both" highs and fogs to stay on by feathering the high beam stalk. If you hold it at the right point it will keep everything on.


 Careful with that, since it is activating the flash-to-pass, and not the actual high beam switch, the lows stay on too, and a dual filament headlight bulb can melt a plastic housing if both are kept on for an extended period. 



Giovanni said:


> This model year is the first time in the history of the VW Golf and Jetta that those two cars do not share the same platform?





clutchrider said:


> My guess is they are referring to the design/styling than platform. I don't recall what generation the Golf/Jetta had different looks from the front end until now. Except for the Sportwagen.


 Yes, sort of. They're both built off the same chassis but this is the first time they're built so differently (ie all different bodywork, and from what I understand the internal body structure pieces aren't shared either, like they always have been, even though subassemblies are). 

Every previous generation except for the Mk5 has had different front end styling*. They all have different rear styling, of course. Except for the Mk1**, they share the same interiors, dashboard and all. 

*The exception is the Mk2 in North America. They had the same front end (the Jetta front end in Europe). The 90-92 GTI got the round headlights that European Golfs always had. For Mk1s (and early Mk2 Golfs), the lights differed NA to Europe, but on each continent they also differed from each other. 

**Even then, it was only the early European Jettas that had a different dash, then they switched to the Euro Golf dash, but in NA of course they were always different because of the NA-sourced dash in the Rabbit. Also, Mk3 had different dash styling at first, but the same basic design, and they were made identical after a few years anyway. 

Sportwagen is an odd duck because it's just a refresh of the Mk5 (when it shared the front end with the G/J), to look similar to a Mk6 (same as the two different Cabrio/let refreshes to look like the later generation).


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## Dr. Woo (Feb 28, 2003)

Did a search in the thread but didn't get anything, so here goes: 

Why is it that in so many cars the first half of the fuel gauge moves much more slowly than the second half? I've never owned a car where 150 miles in the first half corresponds to 150 miles in the second half, or any other number. Is it just a given that these instruments are inaccurate?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Dr. Woo said:


> Did a search in the thread but didn't get anything, so here goes:
> 
> Why is it that in so many cars the first half of the fuel gauge moves much more slowly than the second half? I've never owned a car where 150 miles in the first half corresponds to 150 miles in the second half, or any other number. Is it just a given that these instruments are inaccurate?


 I have noticed that too. I think it's because the tank is widest, on average, near the bottom, where it's flat. Vs the top, where it's narrower to fit in the car's caveties. I figured they would have marked half on the gauge as half volume, but it must be exactly halfway between empty and full level wise instead. (I figure the technical aspect is that it's hard to make a non-linear level gauge, that places half and quarter volume at the right points, vs. actual level) 

EDIT: that makes no sense actually... since usually the first half lasts longer, there should be LESS gas in the second half of the tank!


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## AKADriver (Nov 20, 2001)

Dr. Woo said:


> Why is it that in so many cars the first half of the fuel gauge moves much more slowly than the second half? I've never owned a car where 150 miles in the first half corresponds to 150 miles in the second half, or any other number. Is it just a given that these instruments are inaccurate?


 Yes, more or less. 

The fuel level sender gives a roughly, but not exactly, linear response to the vertical level of fuel in the tank, using a float which moves a rheostat. Usually the response curve levels off at both ends, so you'll see the maximum rate of change of needle position in the middle of travel. This is primarily why the gauge seems to rest on F forever, then start moving down, slowly at first, accelerating as it moves past 1/2 tank. Then it quickly gets near E and you fill. 

Gauges vary in design too much to really say either way how it might contribute to accuracy.


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## clutchrider (Dec 11, 2010)

AKADriver said:


> Yes, more or less.
> 
> The fuel level sender gives a roughly, but not exactly, linear response to the vertical level of fuel in the tank, using a float which moves a rheostat. Usually the response curve levels off at both ends, so you'll see the maximum rate of change of needle position in the middle of travel. This is primarily why the gauge seems to rest on F forever, then start moving down, slowly at first, accelerating as it moves past 1/2 tank. Then it quickly gets near E and you fill.
> 
> Gauges vary in design too much to really say either way how it might contribute to accuracy.


 I notice it A LOT more in the GLI than I did my other cars. Curious as to the shape of the fuel tank/bladder. It doesn't sit on F for too long but from just off the F to 1/2 it takes awhile then sweeps down the backhalf to E. 

Although if you leave the keys turned to run and fill up, you will see it gets to 1/2 pretty quick then slowly staggers to the F. Except for my wifes Liberty, her tank is just a big 20 gallon box that stays pretty even throughout the run.


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## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

AKADriver said:


> Yes, more or less.
> 
> The fuel level sender gives a roughly, but not exactly, linear response to the vertical level of fuel in the tank, using a float which moves a rheostat. Usually the response curve levels off at both ends, so you'll see the maximum rate of change of needle position in the middle of travel. This is primarily why the gauge seems to rest on F forever, then start moving down, slowly at first, accelerating as it moves past 1/2 tank. Then it quickly gets near E and you fill.
> 
> Gauges vary in design too much to really say either way how it might contribute to accuracy.


 that signal is most cars is digitized and could easily have a compensation factor applied to it, to flatten it back out. 

car companies make the gauge do that on purpose. probably for marketing/perception reasons.


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## Dr. Woo (Feb 28, 2003)

AKADriver said:


> The fuel level sender gives a roughly, but not exactly, linear response to the vertical level of fuel in the tank, using a float which moves a rheostat. Usually the response curve levels off at both ends, so you'll see the maximum rate of change of needle position in the middle of travel. This is primarily why the gauge seems to rest on F forever, then start moving down, slowly at first, accelerating as it moves past 1/2 tank. Then it quickly gets near E and you fill.
> 
> Gauges vary in design too much to really say either way how it might contribute to accuracy.


 A float, then. Interesting. Thanks!


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

cockerpunk said:


> car companies make the gauge do that on purpose. probably for marketing/perception reasons.


 Source?


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

VDub2625 said:


> ... I figured they would have marked half on the gauge as half volume, but it must be exactly halfway between empty and full level wise instead...


 On my e30, the gauge did not move linear, but the hash marks were put in the spots where it was really half/quarter tank.


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## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

VDub2625 said:


> Source?


 because it would literally be one line of code to fix it.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

cockerpunk said:


> because it would literally be one line of code to fix it.


 Maybe it's just a vestigial remnant from older analog gauges. I thought they were still analog (at least on cheaper cars) TBH.


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## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

VDub2625 said:


> Maybe it's just a vestigial remnant from older analog gauges. I thought they were still analog (at least on cheaper cars) TBH.


 well, i think they do "fix" it. they just groom it to be a profile they like/want, which i suspect is so that people think there car gets better millage, or makes them feel better because it stays on F longer.


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

monoaural said:


> On my e30, the gauge did not move linear, but the hash marks were put in the spots where it was really half/quarter tank.


 MK1 VW's are the same way. The 1/4 tank mark is close to the middle of the gauge, with the last gallon highlighted in red on the last 1/4 of the gauge.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

Generic animation shows how the float doesn't move until a certain amount of fuel is gone from the tank. 

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-gauge1.htm


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## d_98se (Jun 19, 2007)

*Firewalls*

Why do German cars have what looks like two firewalls separating the engine from the cab? Most other cars IE Japanese/domestic cars don't appear to have this and the engine sits right at the edge of the windshield.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

d_98se said:


> Why do German cars have what looks like two firewalls separating the engine from the cab? Most other cars IE Japanese/domestic cars don't appear to have this and the engine sits right at the edge of the windshield.


 Do you mean the cowl? That is a space that exists above the firewall on most cars (where the wiper motor sits, as well as the fan intake).


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## clutchrider (Dec 11, 2010)

VDub2625 said:


> Do you mean the cowl? That is a space that exists above the firewall on most cars (where the wiper motor sits, as well as the fan intake).


 I always that this piece also had the catch bin at the bottom to allow water to run off the windshield or hood and down to a drain port on the side of the car.


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## Fisherson (Dec 22, 2008)

Got the tires. Love the tires. Although, I'm lamenting the newfound difficulty in getting sideways. Hahahah. 

Also, I'm reading Car and Driver and they did a little page on shock absorbers/dampers and I have a question. 
What is the benefit of having different compression and rebound rates in dampers?


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

What is the science behind chirping into 2nd gear? Is it because of the suspension lifting or the trans spinning faster than the engine? does it actually make you faster? I never really understood this completely.. Other than if the engine is spinning faster than the transmission when you engage the gear.


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

Hurt said:


> What is the science behind chirping into 2nd gear? Is it because of the suspension lifting or the trans spinning faster than the engine? does it actually make you faster? I never really understood this completely.. *Other than if the engine is spinning faster than the transmission when you engage the gear*.


 Thats pretty much it, combined with the engine having enough power to overload the tires during the transition. On a FWD car, its easier as the weight is loaded to the rear, obviously. It has just as much to do with available traction as it does engine power.


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## Brett92 (Nov 20, 2002)

Why are diesel engines so much louder in Trucks vs. cars? 

I don't notice a sound difference between gas cars and trucks, even with the truck typically having a bigger engine. 

However, there's been multiple times where I have been at drive-throughs and a guy in a Ford F-250 next to me has to turn his engine off so the lady can hear him over the intercom. Never seen a guy in a TDI, or even a normal gas truck do that, unless he had exhaust issues. 

Are truck diesels just not refined?


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## l5gcw0b (Mar 3, 2000)

Direct injection has pretty much eliminated noisy diesels, even in big trucks. Any older ones on the road are gonna still be loud. 

edit - Direct injection prevents pre-ignition, which is why diesels were so rattly. 
Now the mechanical clicking of DI is all you hear, on gas and diesel engines.


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

l5gcw0b said:


> Direct injection has pretty much eliminated noisy diesels, even in big trucks. Any older ones on the road are gonna still be loud.
> 
> edit - Direct injection prevents pre-ignition, which is why diesels were so rattly.
> Now the mechanical clicking of DI is all you hear, on gas and diesel engines.


 Diesel engines have been DI since the 70s. Before that, they were precombustion chamber (which is still pretty much DI).

The noise is from the high pressure fuel pump, older ones were louder and less efficient. I've seen modern diesel engines that run fuel pressures as high as 30,000psi.


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## Fisherson (Dec 22, 2008)

Fisherson said:


> Got the tires. Love the tires. Although, I'm lamenting the newfound difficulty in getting sideways. Hahahah.
> 
> Also, I'm reading Car and Driver and they did a little page on shock absorbers/dampers and I have a question.
> What is the benefit of having different compression and rebound rates in dampers?


 Sorry, just really curious and it seemed this got skipped over...


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

TurboWraith said:


> Diesel engines have been DI since the 70s. Before that, they were precombustion chamber (which is still pretty much DI).
> 
> The noise is from the high pressure fuel pump, older ones were louder and less efficient. I've seen modern diesel engines that run fuel pressures as high as 30,000psi.


 If you're talking about diesel 'rattle' most of that in older engines is eliminate in newer engines due to the relatively new concepts of multiple injection events per power stroke. IIRC Most modern Common-rail engines use 5ish injection events. It really quiets down diesels. Big rigs use unit pump style injection, though I'm unaware if they use multiple injection events or still one large fuel injection. I'm also unaware of the way the VW diesel I4 does it since they too are UP style injection systems. 



Fisherson said:


> Sorry, just really curious and it seemed this got skipped over...


 Compression and rebound need to be adjusted on a vehicle in order to tune the car to the track conditions, or how bumpy the road is. You don't want the car to be under dampened, or that is to say that the damper has a reduced ability to control the oscillations created by the spring compressing. They also don't want an over damped car which means that the damper is too stiff and does not allow the spring to work, essentially locking the suspension together. It's important to differentiate here between high speed and low speed damping. High speed damping usually occurs when you hit a bump and low speed damping comes from steering/pedal input. Most vehicles have less compression/rebound damping on high speed to allow the vehicle to 'absorb' the shock of hitting a bump or chuck-hole without transmitting too much of the shock to the vehicle. Low speed damping is usually raised to help resist too much body roll or weight transfer. 


This is where adjustable damping comes into play. Most dampers are either 1 way (fixed compression, adjustable rebound) or 2-way (adjustable on both ends) while more expensive shocks are 4 way (separate high and low speed on each) or 6 way with an intermediate as well. 

Thus the benefit is altering how much damping you get for the given road conditions and spring rates. If you adjust your spring rate and leave a properly dampened shock in, your new system will be over or under dampened. So if you alter your corner weight or alter your spring rate you'll then be able to change the compression/rebound to have a correctly dampened system again. You can also effect weight transfer by altering the compression/rebound. Drag racers often have very light compression damping and very heavy rebound damping. You'll often see these as 80/20 or 90/10 shocks. This means that when you launch there is little interference allowing the rear to compress and all the weight to transfer to the rear of the vehicle. However once the launch is over, the rebound of the damper is very heavily set so that the shocks attempt to keep the weight transferred towards the rear and keep it from moving back off the rear tires. The same concept of allowing or attempting to limit weight transfer can be done side to side or front to back as well in a car to get the body roll (or lack thereof) to something that is desirable for the track/setup. 

I hope this helps a little bit, but remember this his hugely over-simplified, perhaps to a fault, as it fails to take into account anything besides the spring and shock in the suspension system. But that's the general idea of compression rebound adjustability. In a street car since they're usually only a 2 way setup it's usually to lower the damping levels on the street to give more compliance over bumps and ruts, and increase damping levels to help with body control on a track setting. YMMV. Realistically though most people with adjustable dampers never adjust them and many of the cheaper brands don't actually change that much when you adjust compression and rebound. Even on the Koni yellows, the best use of the adjustable compression/rebound is to put them on a shock dyno and get the things matched so all four or the fronts/rears both actually have the same dampening.


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

ravera said:


> If you're talking about diesel 'rattle' most of that in older engines is eliminate in newer engines due to the relatively new concepts of multiple injection events per power stroke. IIRC Most modern Common-rail engines use 5ish injection events. It really quiets down diesels. Big rigs use unit pump style injection, though I'm unaware if they use multiple injection events or still one large fuel injection. I'm also unaware of the way the VW diesel I4 does it since they too are UP style injection systems.


 Yup. Depending on the application, many industrial and commercial diesels will have as high as 8 injections per powercycle.

Our (work for Caterpillar) are all different depending on the load range and anticipated duty cycle of the engine.


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

Perfect timing with the diesel talk. 

I was at a diesel drag racing event today and noticed that one of the race trucks had what looked like a small engine plate with a spring-loaded block off plate in front of the compressor-side inducer of the smaller turbo. So when the driver pulls the release cable, the tension of the springs would pull the plate shut, effectively cutting off the air supply to the induction. It didn't look like the plate could be closed/opened in increments, it was either open or shut. 

Is the point of this contraption to suddenly dump a lot of fuel to the engine to cool it down as soon the run is over? Not really well familiar with diesels, but I know non-diesel racers employ their own tricks using excess fuel for cooling purposes.


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

It's for a runaway diesel condition. It's required on most high performance diesels in racing. You'll see them a bunch in tractor pulling as well. The idea is that since diesels run on compression alone, if a turbo seal blows or something else lets go that allows engine oil to feed into the intake, or you get a stuck fuel rack/IP, the diesel will run off of that and you will lose the ability to control the engine. It will 'runaway' until the engine explodes (it often runs away at RPMs far above redline) or it runs out of oil, and then possibly explodes. In a runaway situation, the driver pulls the lever, closing off the air to the engine, effectively stopping the runaway. 

See about 1:30 here for what it sounds like/looks like to get a diesel runaway


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

Wow, I'll have to see how other racers have it set up because I didn't notice anything like that walking around Lucas Oil Raceway today. 

Also seen today were a couple of trucks with what looked like a disc brake at each "pumpkin" where the driveshaft connects. The front had one and the rear had one, both independent of one another. I'm guessing when the "brake" is applied, then the wheels at that end of the truck do not get power. Does this then mean that brake is powerful enough to hold the driveshaft from spinning? Where does that force go then? Does that brake work like a clutch that disengages the driveshaft from the "pumpkin"?


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

Did it look like this? 










It's a pinion brake. Most of the big autos don't have an aftermarket trans brake and by putting the brake ahead of the pinion, you can increase holding power by a factor of whatever gear ratio they're running. They put the brake on to stage and build boost.


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

Yea, that's what it looked like. Good find :thumbup: and that truck you got that pic from ran a new personal best of 9.15 today. 

I did notice a few trucks were in dire need of a trans brake but couldn't figure out why they didn't have one. I imagine the torque output is just too great so a trans brake either wouldn't be able to hold the truck from taking off prematurely and/or the sudden torque being applied would damage the transmission. 

Is the only solution to use a a pinion brake? 

Also, do monster trucks also use something similar to pinion brakes but for each individual wheel so that they can send all of the power to just one wheel or one pair of them if for some reason there was damage to the other wheels?


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

ravera said:


> See about 1:30 here for what it sounds like/looks like to get a diesel runaway


 That guy reacted pretty quickly and had a chunk of metal there waiting, but revving like that I can't imagine he had much more time. I would NOT want to stand right there when the engine blew. Hell, the belt alone giving way could slice right into you, not to mention actual shrapnel.  

That's a very educational video. :thumbup: :beer: 

I've known of/understood the condition, but that's the first time I've ever seen it actually happen, even on video.


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

Assle said:


> Yea, that's what it looked like. Good find :thumbup: and that truck you got that pic from ran a new personal best of 9.15 today.
> 
> I did notice a few trucks were in dire need of a trans brake but couldn't figure out why they didn't have one. I imagine the torque output is just too great so a trans brake either wouldn't be able to hold the truck from taking off prematurely and/or the sudden torque being applied would damage the transmission.
> 
> ...


 I was interested as well and looked for an answer. It appears that the Allison 1000 in the duramaxes don't really have the ability to use a trans brake due to their power flow. The 48RE's off of the cummin's do and it looks like some are made. Maybe the're just stupid expensive, or unreliable? IDK. These trucks to get into the 9's and below usually have 2000+ftlbs of torque. 



If you see a similar thing on a monster truck, it's probably because the diff they're using is based off of a MAC dump truck axle or a Rockwell 2.5 ton axle. Though they now make conversions for the off-roaders to use brakes, there was just too much force on the wheel to make an effective brake. With the planet gears in the hubs and the sky high ratios in the diff itself, putting a brake on the pinion is an effective way to hall that big gal down, especially since (IIRC) the diffs in monster trucks are usually locked.


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## David802 (Feb 23, 2011)

When you look at manufacturer HP numbers I was always told to subtract 15% for drive train loss because manufacturers measure that number from the flywheel instead of the wheels. Do you have to subtract a higher percentage for AWD cars, or does the fact that the engine is driving 4 wheels instead of 2 not matter. If so, what percentage?:beer:


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

The percentage is a rough guesstimate. No one is going to invest the time to measure the actual loss for every drivetrain setup out there. In general, there will be more drivetrain loss when there are more wheels being driven. There are other factors to consider other than just the amount of powered wheels including drivetrain dimensions, materials used, transmission, etc.


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## dorkage (Jul 7, 2009)

Adding to the above post, I've heard that when the torque has to go on a 90 degree angle, such as a RWD or longitudinal AWD car, it will have significantly more loss. It kinda makes sense since it would be harder to turn than compared to gears that are lined up. 

That would explain why the 1.8t quattros dyno at like 130WHP(or less) for a 170HP motor.


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

I usually guess about 10-15% for FWD, 15% for RWD and 20-25% for AWD.


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## BornBlue82 (Jun 12, 2012)

How hard is it to remove a manual transmission from a 95 volkswagen jetta glx?:wave:


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

BornBlue82 said:


> How hard is it to remove a manual transmission from a 95 volkswagen jetta glx?:wave:


 This is the wrong thread for that. But the answer is: Not that hard.


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

*Dumb question*: I just got my first ever adjustable suspension (Koni yellows). The top dampening adjustment allows for 4 full turns (360). The "instruction" pamphlet appears to say that adjustments should be done 180 degrees at a time. Can I do a 90 degree turn instead and still feel a difference in ride firmness?


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## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

Yes, unless you're feeling distinct clicks at those 180 degree increments. My experience with them is that they are infinitely adjustable, however all the ones I have used have had two full turns, not four. 

Also generally a good idea to not crank them to full stiff. Adjust by going to full soft and counting turns upwards from there. Stop around 3 3/4 or 3/78 turns, if you really think you need full stiffness.


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

C4 A6 said:


> *Dumb question*: I just got my first ever adjustable suspension (Koni yellows). The top dampening adjustment allows for 4 full turns (360). The "instruction" pamphlet appears to say that adjustments should be done 180 degrees at a time. Can I do a 90 degree turn instead and still feel a difference in ride firmness?


 A word of advice on yellows though. While they're great dampers, 3 turns on one shock rarely equals three turns on another shock. If there is a suspension shop near you, I'd suggest going there and getting them matched on a shock dyno so the compression/rebound levels are all the same so when you start making your adjustments you're doing so from equal footing.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Why do so many aftermarket radios not include dimmers? Or even if they do, it's only on/off, not appropriately dial dimming? It can't be cheaper to run a dimmer transistor than to run a dimmer feed directly to the radio's display lights.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

VDub2625 said:


> Why do so many aftermarket radios not include dimmers? Or even if they do, it's only on/off, not appropriately dial dimming? It can't be cheaper to run a dimmer transistor than to run a dimmer feed directly to the radio's display lights.


 wha? 

every aftermarket radio i've ever installed has a dimmer wire in the harness. 

additionally, most of the relatively recent ones also allow you to dim the display by going into the display settings.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I've seen many recent ones with no dimmer wire. And the ones that do, just dim to a preset, not variable with the dimmer dial (I've never seen that in an aftermarket radio, actually).


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

VDub2625 said:


> I've seen many recent ones with no dimmer wire. And the ones that do, just dim to a preset, not variable with the dimmer dial (I've never seen that in an aftermarket radio, actually).


 Nearly all entry level radios don't have em. And I belleve the reason they don't dim variable, is it wouldn't work in every car. Since every car uses different voltages, for their different lighting methods.


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## stascom (Sep 12, 2009)

How about dimming indicators on the instrument cluster? Why don't they exist? A nightly drive on the highway with the cluster dimmed is really inconvenienced by the blue 'bright beam' light melting my corneas


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

stascom said:


> is really inconvenienced by the blue 'bright beam' light melting my corneas


 Something about dimming the high beam indicator so it's less noticeable doesn't strike me as a great idea.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

stascom said:


> How about dimming indicators on the instrument cluster? Why don't they exist? A nightly drive on the highway with the cluster dimmed is really inconvenienced by the blue 'bright beam' light melting my corneas


 Thats to remind YOU not to blind OTHERS with your bright HID's.


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## stascom (Sep 12, 2009)

MrMook said:


> Thats to remind YOU not to blind OTHERS with your bright HID's.


 Is that the reason though? When I do forget they're on (happened twice in my life), the indicator doesn't help.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Blue should be less distracting to a night driver than, say, a bright red or yellow light.


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## FreshBaked 24 7 (Sep 15, 2006)

*Stupid clutch question*

Since this is a thread i know I probably wont be laughed at for asking this 

Are performance and racing clutches more durable than stock clutches? I figure since most of the time they'll be doing things I probably wouldn't dare try on a stock clutch that they'd hold up better to being burnt out


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## landstuhltaylor (Jul 21, 2011)

FreshBaked 24 7 said:


> Since this is a thread i know I probably wont be laughed at for asking this
> 
> Are performance and racing clutches more durable than stock clutches? I figure since most of the time they'll be doing things I probably wouldn't dare try on a stock clutch that they'd hold up better to being burnt out


 
Most racing clutches don't respond well to being slipped. They do a great job with high rpm clutch dumps but dont handle stop and go traffic well at all. You can burn them out very quickly if you slip them a lot. In my experiences Spec clutches in particular are known for this.


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## FreshBaked 24 7 (Sep 15, 2006)

landstuhltaylor said:


> Most racing clutches don't respond well to being slipped. They do a great job with high rpm clutch dumps but dont handle stop and go traffic well at all. You can burn them out very quickly if you slip them a lot. In my experiences Spec clutches in particular are known for this.


 Just figured I'd ask cause my dad's clutch is starting to go after 85k+ miles and three sons (me included a couple of years ago) who wanted to learn how to drive a standard transmission :laugh:


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## Daniel333 (Jun 22, 2012)

If you had the manufacturing/fabricating means available, could you put a turbo on any engine? Say, a 22RE? And I mean a big turbo, like something off a tractor trailer.http://www.*********/ht3.jpg


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## stascom (Sep 12, 2009)

Daniel333 said:


> I-like-c0ck


 Good for you.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

*FV-QR*

Why do some buses have a large triangular exhaust tip? 









I answered my own question in my search for a picture. 

"Even the tailpipe is cleaner. It ends with a fan-shaped funnel that helps trap particulates and keep them out of the air."


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

FreshBaked 24 7 said:


> Just figured I'd ask cause my dad's clutch is starting to go after 85k+ miles and three sons (me included a couple of years ago) who wanted to learn how to drive a standard transmission :laugh:


 You don't want a race clutch on a daily driven car.


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

If a race clutch is any worse than the stock clutch on my family's 1984 930 I don't want any part of that, in traffic it's quite the beotch. :laugh:


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

Dad put a HD/Race clutch in his car when the original went out. It later became my car in HS. I didnt have a problem but none of my friends would drive it and it would cause my girlfriend's leg to twitch even at stoplights.


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

VDub2625 said:


> You don't want a race clutch on a daily driven car.





efrie said:


> If a race clutch is any worse than the stock clutch on my family's 1984 930 I don't want any part of that, in traffic it's quite the beotch. :laugh:


 There are multiple stages of clutch setups between slow stock car and BECAUSE RACECAR. Not everyone needs to go to a 5.5'' triple plate sintered iron non sprung hub clutch. 

As long as you keep a sprung hub the car will be relatively streetable. Though I wouldn't run a puck clutch in my DD, some people do and get away with it fine. But if you have a super light flywheel, a relatively heavy car, and a six puck clutch, you're asking to be miserable.


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## mike_A3 (Jun 30, 2008)

A.Wilder said:


> Why do some buses have a large triangular exhaust tip?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 BS, any particulate being "trapped" would build up and need to be stored in some sort of hopper, then periodically cleaned out. 

-designs power plants


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## mike_A3 (Jun 30, 2008)

Daniel333 said:


> If you had the manufacturing/fabricating means available, could you put a turbo on any engine? Say, a 22RE? And I mean a big turbo, like something off a tractor trailer.http://www.*********/ht3.jpg


 yes


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

Yes, but wouldn't the advantage be that instead of the particulates being dispersed into the area throughout the driver's daily route, they would instead just be disposed of into a smaller confined area?


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## mike_A3 (Jun 30, 2008)

Assle said:


> Yes, but wouldn't the advantage be that instead of the particulates being dispersed into the area throughout the driver's daily route, they would instead just be disposed of into a smaller confined area?


 Most definitely, you could collect and store any particulate, then dispose of it some controlled way.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

ravera said:


> There are multiple stages of clutch setups between slow stock car and BECAUSE RACECAR. Not everyone needs to go to a 5.5'' triple plate sintered iron non sprung hub clutch.
> 
> As long as you keep a sprung hub the car will be relatively streetable. Though I wouldn't run a puck clutch in my DD, some people do and get away with it fine. But if you have a super light flywheel, a relatively heavy car, and a six puck clutch, you're asking to be miserable.


 It's my understanding that most non-OEM replacement clutches are unsprung. Do they make sprung race clutches? 

And, why is a race clutch so difficult to drive? is it especially "grabby" without the spring buffering the pickup?


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## landstuhltaylor (Jul 21, 2011)

VDub2625 said:


> It's my understanding that most non-OEM replacement clutches are unsprung. Do they make sprung race clutches?
> 
> And, why is a race clutch so difficult to drive? is it especially "grabby" without the spring buffering the pickup?


 They have extremely stiff pedals for one. You need a lot of clamping force to hold big power and that gets transmitted to the pedal. They are also designed to snap to the engagement point making it more difficult to modulate. I'm not sure on the specific mechanical details but that would be the general reason.


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## Sold Over Sticker (Nov 29, 2009)

VDub2625 said:


> And, why is a race clutch so difficult to drive? is it especially "grabby" without the spring buffering the pickup?


 It's also the friction material. The first clutch my Uncle had in his GT40 was next to undriveable unless you were on it. The clamping force was high, and the friction material wasn't just grabby, it locked up when contact was made. If you tried to slip it, it would also chatter something fierce. 

Racing clutches generally are light, clamp like crazy, and have material that doesn't like to be slipped. Finally, if it's a true racing clutch, the swept area of the friction material is low, leading to a small thermal capacity, so any real slip will kill it quickly. 

For a DD that lives on the street, a big organic compound sprung hub clutch is the way to go.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Interesting. I also had always wondered why "puck" clutches exist. i would figure that you'd want as much surface area as possible to grab and hold power. The gaps in between the pucks don't make sense to me.


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## Sold Over Sticker (Nov 29, 2009)

VDub2625 said:


> Interesting. I also had always wondered why "puck" clutches exist. i would figure that you'd want as much surface area as possible to grab and hold power. The gaps in between the pucks don't make sense to me.


 Low rotational inertia. Again, in a racing application, the surface area isn't that big of a deal, as you aren't slipping the clutch. Clamping force is much more important in that application. :thumbup:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Cool, good info, thanks :thumbup:


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## themortalwombat (Jun 1, 2012)

jaredpgh said:


> to re-ask one of my previous questions: what does FD and FC mean when referring to RX-7s?


 This refers to the chassis code of the car, taken from the VIN. 

1'st generation (1978-1985) was SA/FB 
2'nd generation (1986-1991) was FC 
3rd generation (1993-2002) was FD


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## clutchrider (Dec 11, 2010)

Dyno's. What is the average cost of having one done, why do they use top gear so low and work it up to redline. Do they wait till they hit redline or is there a certain spot they stop at? Of all the videos I see I am never sure as I see some hanging around in second gear, others in top end right through, and then it sounds almost as if they give up before the engine is ready too. 

Just curious about the dynamics, processes, cost, etc.


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## helement2003 (Aug 3, 2004)

clutchrider said:


> Dyno's. What is the average cost of having one done, why do they use top gear so low and work it up to redline. Do they wait till they hit redline or is there a certain spot they stop at? Of all the videos I see I am never sure as I see some hanging around in second gear, others in top end right through, and then it sounds almost as if they give up before the engine is ready too.
> 
> Just curious about the dynamics, processes, cost, etc.


 I can give a little insight for you. I'm not sure on average cost, but usually a dyno is done in the gear that comes closest to a 1:1 ratio on the transmission (transmission ratios can be explained further if you so desire). A lot of times this happens to be 4th gear (from what I've seen). 

Other times, dynos are done to show a theoretical top speed, so you see them rip right through the gears up to top gear/redline.


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

To eliminate torque Multiplication of the transmission most are run in the gear that is closest to 1:1 

edit: Damn You


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## clutchrider (Dec 11, 2010)

helement2003 said:


> I can give a little insight for you. I'm not sure on average cost, but usually a dyno is done in the gear that comes closest to a 1:1 ratio on the transmission (transmission ratios can be explained further if you so desire). A lot of times this happens to be 4th gear (from what I've seen).
> 
> Other times, dynos are done to show a theoretical top speed, so you see them rip right through the gears up to top gear/redline.





gambit420s said:


> To eliminate torque Multiplication of the transmission most are run in the gear that is closest to 1:1
> 
> edit: Damn You


 Thanks! 

So they are not really running them in 5/6 when they do those 1:1 runs. 

I guess a small explanation of gear ratios wouldn't hurt either since I hear/read about them and don't really understand what is being explained.


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

clutchrider said:


> Thanks!
> 
> So they are not really running them in 5/6 when they do those 1:1 runs.
> 
> I guess a small explanation of gear ratios wouldn't hurt either since I hear/read about them and don't really understand what is being explained.


 You might want to try this, www.howstuffworks.com/, seriously there are pretty good explanations of most common automotive systems and concepts :thumbup: good luck


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## Sold Over Sticker (Nov 29, 2009)

clutchrider said:


> Thanks!
> 
> So they are not really running them in 5/6 when they do those 1:1 runs.
> 
> I guess a small explanation of gear ratios wouldn't hurt either since I hear/read about them and don't really understand what is being explained.


 While I started typing out a response, I was going to say it'll be better to do this: 



gambit420s said:


> You might want to try this, www.howstuffworks.com/, seriously there are pretty good explanations of most common automotive systems and concepts :thumbup: good luck


 And then he said the same thing. Basically, you're using gears to multiply how many times the output shaft spins vs how many times the input shaft spins. In really crude terms, by changing the number of times the output shaft spins vs the input shaft, you multiply torque. By going to a gear that's 1:1 or close to it, you get a better read on what the true output of the engine is without a mechanical advantage due to gearing.


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## spitfirevr6 (Jul 15, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> While I started typing out a response, I was going to say it'll be better to do this:
> 
> 
> 
> And then he said the same thing. Basically, you're using gears to multiply how many times the output shaft spins vs how many times the input shaft spins. In really crude terms, by changing the number of times the output shaft spins vs the input shaft, you multiply torque. By going to a gear that's 1:1 or close to it, you get a better read on what the true output of the engine is without a mechanical advantage due to gearing.


 So if i dyno'd my car in 1st gear, it would make more power? i might have to try this and post a troll thread about my serious powar


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

spitfirevr6 said:


> So if i dyno'd my car in 1st gear, it would make more power? i might have to try this and post a troll thread about my serious powar


 You would certainly be making more torque (at the wheel), similar to the advantage you get when you use a wrench with a longer handle. :thumbup:


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## vwshorty21 (Jan 23, 2011)

okay i was a jeep man and when we said coilovers there was 2 different springs and adjuster plates on one shock with two different spring rate for jumps and what not on all 4 corners of the car, on some coilovers on street cars there is one spring with adjuster plates and mostly on the front only why is that? and how come they are still called coilovers? does that make sense and thanks for this awesome thread


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## r2kool4u (Oct 10, 2009)

Because the spring is "over" the shock/strut.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

spitfirevr6 said:


> So if i dyno'd my car in 1st gear, it would make more power? i might have to try this and post a troll thread about my serious powar


 Your car would reach red line faster, for sure. 
But the rollers would be going a lot slower, so they wouldn't be fooled.  


Other things to consider: 
Similarly sized gears have less mechanical loss. Big to Small, or Small to Big aren't as efficient as 1:1. 
Higher gears means less wheel torque, which means less chance of wheel slip. 
Higher gears means a longer acceleration run. Would you rather your results be from 3 seconds of 1st gear fury, or 12 seconds of smooth power delivery?


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## ktk (Jun 29, 2009)

Jennifer346 said:


> If you had the manufacturing/fabricating means available, could you put a turbo on any engine? Say, a 22RE? And I mean a big turbo, like something off a tractor trailer.


 The quick answer is yes. With some fabrication you can bolt a turbo onto nearly any engine. Making it work and work well is a different story. 

Generally naturally aspirated (NA) engines are not designed for the heat and cylinder pressures big turbo's can deliver. NA compression ratios tend to be higher (10-12:1) whereas for big turbo high power applications you usually want a lower static compression ratio (in the 8-10:1 range) allow you to run more boost and still be below the detonation threshold. 

In addition to physically bolting a turbo to the engine, you need to have a way to retune the ECM or fueling system to compensate for the increased amount of air the turbo will be delivering. For most the fab part is easy, sorting out the tune and correct fueling and timing requires a more specialized skillset. 

Done incorrectly a turbo bolted to an NA engine without a proper tune will not work as well as it should and may even cause engine damaging lean conditions with inadequate fueling. Worst case is catastrophic engine failure due to detonation.


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## CodeMan (May 12, 2006)

spitfirevr6 said:


> So if i dyno'd my car in 1st gear, it would make more power?


 No, torque is multiplied through the gear ratios, but power, being a function of torque and RPM, is not.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

Jennifer346 said:


> If you had the manufacturing/fabricating means available, could you put a turbo on any engine? Say, a 22RE? And I mean a big turbo, like something off a tractor trailer.


 This same exact post comes up every week from a newish member, it seems. With the same broken linkied pics.


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## CodeMan (May 12, 2006)

Surf Green said:


> This same exact post comes up every week from a newish member, it seems. With the same broken linkied pics.


 Yep. 

*TCL PSA - 

Learn to recognize SpamBots:* 

1. Simple user name comprised of a common name + a handful of numbers. 
2. Sign-up date within the last few days. 
3. Marginally on topic posts, often clipped from a previous post in the thread, or written in Engrish. 
4. Broken pic links attached to post, URLs lead to non-pic host sites when traced. 

Once a spambot has a few of these posts under its belt and has flown under the radar for a few days (it does this to circumvent the forum spam filters), it bombs the forums with spam threads full of links to ________. 

*If you see a post that fits these criteria, report it as a spambot.*


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## Neezy13 (Jun 1, 2011)

jebglx said:


> what causes a windshield wiper to "chatter" across the windshield?
> even when it's relatively new?
> bill


 I know this question is almost 7 years old, but I didn't see an answer for it so I'll provide one. Wiper blade chatter is usually not caused by the blade. If the rubber is in bad enough condition the blades may chatter, but usually it is because the wiper arms don't have enough tension in the spring that holds them to the windshield. Another possible cause is something on the windshield creating more friction or simply running them on a dry windshield. Yet another possibility is wind-lift. Wind-lift is really only a problem at really high speeds, for example the blades we make for the CTS-V have little spoilers on them to help hold them on the windshield at high speeds. 

I am a Quality Engineer for a windshield wiper company and I do reliability and validation testing and warranty analysis on wiper blades and motors and chatter is a major concern when wiper systems are designed (at least on the OEM side). Aftermarket blades are typically generic whereas oem blades from the factory have specific curvature of the metal vertebra to ensure proper windshield contact. 

That's probably more than anyone wants to know about windshield wipers.


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## clutchrider (Dec 11, 2010)

ktk said:


> The quick answer is yes. With some fabrication you can bolt a turbo onto nearly any engine. Making it work and work well is a different story.
> 
> Generally naturally aspirated (NA) engines are not designed for the heat and cylinder pressures big turbo's can deliver. NA compression ratios tend to be higher (10-12:1) whereas for big turbo high power applications you usually want a lower static compression ratio (in the 8-10:1 range) allow you to run more boost and still be below the detonation threshold.
> 
> ...


 Is it the same for adding a supercharger? My old car (Matrix XR AWD) had a kit that allowed a Toyota TRD supercharger to be added. Although they claim it was not recommended for the car because it could cause transmission problems (AWD not built for the additional power?). The kit was like $2,500 and gave a boost to almost 200hp. Just curious if the same applies for such applications as it does for turbo. 



Neezy13 said:


> I am a Quality Engineer for a windshield wiper company and I do reliability and validation testing and warranty analysis on wiper blades and motors and chatter is a major concern when wiper systems are designed (at least on the OEM side). Aftermarket blades are typically generic whereas oem blades from the factory have specific curvature of the metal vertebra to ensure proper windshield contact.
> 
> That's probably more than anyone wants to know about windshield wipers.


 Rain X Latitude Wipers vs. Bosch vs. Cheap-o Walmart brand vs. double wipers vs. inserts. Would love to know your thoughts.


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## Neezy13 (Jun 1, 2011)

The Rain-X latitude and the Bosch blades that are made like those where the whole assembly bends are generally the best because they don't create pressure points like traditional blades do. I have cheapo blades on my car (Trico) and they suck, I would just get some from work, but VW uses a different hook size than the ones we supply (mostly Japanese cars and big three). If you can find inserts that fit correctly (which is next to impossible) that would be the best way to go since you are reusing the oem vertebra and not changing the curvature, however the vertebra do wear out over time. Also, cleaning your blades when you wash the car will keep them working longer. Most of the warranty claims I see with complaints of streaking blades are caused by bug guts or road tar or tree sap on the rubber.


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## megaDan (Jul 11, 2007)

This one has been bothering me lately. Especially now that I've been thinking more about octane and tuning my Z. 

I put 93octane in the Z. Unfortunately all of the stations around here are 10% ethanol. 

Is the GAS in that blend 93 octane, plus 10% of higher octane ethanol? 

Or does the final blend of gas+ethanol have the 93 octane rating? Does this mean the gas itself used in the mixture is lower quality? 

Does anyone know how the rating actually works when ethanol is involved?


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## Egz (May 30, 2002)

clutchrider said:


> Although they claim it was not recommended for the car because it could cause transmission problems (AWD not built for the additional power?).


 Quite possible. Just because it has an AWD transmission doesn't mean it was designed for performance applications. Most transmissions are designed to support up to a certain torque limit, and I suspect that transmission was built with a NA 1.8l engine in mind. Too much extra torque, and things will start failing.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

megaDan said:


> Or does the final blend of gas+ethanol have the 93 octane rating?


 As i understand it, this is the most accurate description. 

The end result is 93 octane. 

It doesn't mean the gas is of lower quality, as octane is not a measure of energy or quality. 

Octane is a measure of detonation resistance. The amount of energy per unit of fuel is the same, the difference is in how resistant to detonation it is. Higher octane means higher resistance so you can advance ignition timing. 

Lower octane means less resistance; so when you advance ignition timing, you'll see knocking/pinging sooner. 

This is why performance tunes require higher octane fuel; ignition advance is a big part of increasing performance and output.


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## ktk (Jun 29, 2009)

clutchrider said:


> Is it the same for adding a supercharger? My old car (Matrix XR AWD) had a kit that allowed a Toyota TRD supercharger to be added. Although they claim it was not recommended for the car because it could cause transmission problems (AWD not built for the additional power?). The kit was like $2,500 and gave a boost to almost 200hp. Just curious if the same applies for such applications as it does for turbo.


 yes the exact same theory applies to any form of forced induction turbo or supercharging or even Nitrous Oxide. All of these "power adders" work by increasing the amount of available oxygen in they cylinder. They don't automatically "add power" magically. They ENABLE the engine to breathe more oxygen into the cylinders. In order to make power, you have to add the other two components, fuel (to give a proper A/F ratio) and spark timing (that gives maximum torque without hitting the knock limit of the fuel or the mechanical limits of the engine hardware). 

Those last two factors are the "tune" or the "chip" or the "flash" as laymen like to call it. In late model cars it is all done electronically through reprogramming the fueling and timing tables in the ECM. Any OEM backed aftermarket supercharger kit will include that retune as part of the package. The main benefit of OEM over any other aftermarket tuning company, is that they have full access to all the mechanical limits and tuning parameters in the engine and can provide you with the best quality safe and reliable tune. No aftermarket company has the engineering resources to do so, most just go for big power numbers and don't bother to test for long term reliability/emissions/streetability etc etc etc.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

TwoLitreVW said:


> As i understand it, this is the most accurate description.


 And to add to this excellent response, I think he was driving at the fact that older cars take no advantage of ethanol. True, we may not be able to take advantage of the energy content in the ethanol on our older engines, but it does still raise the octane (burning resistance) level. 

Here's a silly thought... Vodka, usually 50/50 water/ethanol, right (in it's purest forms)? What if you added that to a tank in a calculated amount to raise octane and compression? No laughing, I'm serious, as water injection is a real thing, and so is ethanol. I'm sure it would be a bad idea, though technically possible.


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## Ktt88 (Aug 27, 2011)

Question: Why is it that mostly drifters have crosses on their headlights? (X)=====(X) 

Is there any point of this? referring to something historical? 
Not just drifters, also seem a lot of time attack and rally cars have this also


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

Ktt88 said:


> Question: Why is it that mostly drifters have crosses on their headlights? (X)=====(X)
> 
> Is there any point of this? referring to something historical?
> Not just drifters, also seem a lot of time attack and rally cars have this also


 Historically it was to keep broken glass off the race track. :thumbup:


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

VDub2625 said:


> Here's a silly thought... Vodka, usually 50/50 water/ethanol, right (in it's purest forms)? What if you added that to a tank in a calculated amount to raise octane and compression? No laughing, I'm serious, as water injection is a real thing, and so is ethanol. I'm sure it would be a bad idea, though technically possible.


100 proof vodka is technically 50% ethanol. Most is 80proof which hovers around 40%. 
Though the car might run, you'll also see a massive increase in consumption as there is no energy gained from adding water to the fuel system. You would not raise compression at all, but you would increase knock resistance since, well, it's hard to light water on fire. You may get an increase in efficiency as far as energy in vs rotational energy out as a hot enough combustion temperature would cause the water to flash to steam, absorbing a ton of heat energy and turning it into an expanse of volume, hopefully getting you slightly closer to adiabatic expansion (where all the energy becomes volume expansion as opposed to heat/light output).

Edit: Tractor pullers do this a lot as the water injection brings the sky high EGT's down to something that wont melt the hot side, though they often use machining oil mixed with water... If you ever see a hot farm, pro stock, etc. diesel idle a little puff of white smoke after a pull, this is why. :thumbup:


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

saron81 said:


> Historically it was to keep broken glass off the race track. :thumbup:


Yep - the tape will hold the pieces of glass in place when a headlight gets broken. Nowadays I laugh when i see people taping off plastic headlights...


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## ParkeR32 (Mar 22, 2012)

Ok so i always wondered what GTI actually stood for... i thought for a while it was golf turbo then something with an I lol but they make vr6 gti without turbos so i know that im wrong


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## CodeMan (May 12, 2006)

ParkeR32 said:


> Ok so i always wondered what GTI actually stood for... i thought for a while it was golf turbo then something with an I lol but they make vr6 gti without turbos so i know that im wrong


Grand Touring Injection. There were three generations of GTIs without turbos prior to the Mk4, btw, not just the VR6 model.


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## ParkeR32 (Mar 22, 2012)

CodeMan said:


> Grand Touring Injection. There were three generations of GTIs without turbos prior to the Mk4, btw, not just the VR6 model.


Alright that makes more sense haha thanks :thumbup:


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

CodeMan said:


> Grand Touring Injection. There were three generations of GTIs without turbos prior to the Mk4, btw, not just the VR6 model.


What does Grand Touring mean? Likewise - what is Touring?

How does one inject it?


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## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

Injection refers to fuel injection. Back when the Rabbit GTI came out, it was worth mentioning.

Ill let someone else go on about grand touring for a while and whether or not certain cars branded as such are true to the original meaning any more.

Or, from Wiki: _



A grand tourer (Italian: gran turismo) (GT) is a high-performance luxury automobile designed for long-distance driving. The most common format is a two-door coupé with either a two-seat or a 2+2 arrangement.

The term derives from the Italian phrase gran turismo, homage to the tradition of the grand tour, used to represent automobiles regarded as grand tourers, able to make long-distance, high-speed journeys in both comfort and style. The English translation is grand touring.

Click to expand...

_


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Grande Tourisme, or Grand Touring, is generally a class of car that is powerful, and comfortable for long term cruising. it's almost jokingly applied to a Golf, but it sort of is true nowadays, as it is better at almost all things than the "regular" Golf.

And back when the GTI came out, it was the first fuel injected model of Golf. The Jetta GLI sort of follows the same idea. Gl=Grand Luxe, or a higher class model, with fuel injection.


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

I know driving with AC reduces your gas millage... does it make a difference with how high the AC is set ???


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

skydive_007 said:


> I know driving with AC reduces your gas millage... does it make a difference with how high the AC is set ???


Not at first when the car is heat soaked, but after it cools down a bit, yes. 

With the fan on the lowest speed, cooling demand is low and the car will cycle the compressor on and off as needed. With the fan on high, the compressor will run continuously until the car is a meat locker. At least that is how all of my modern cars with manual HVAC have worked. 

If the car has automatic climate control, it works just like a window unit A/C where it raises and lowers the fan speed automatically (or stops it completely) and cycles the compressor only as needed. So, yes, it will burn more gas to keep the car at 65°F than at 85°F.

The Yaris is interesting because it also has a variable speed cooling fan under the hood. When it isn't too hot outside, it spins the fan slowly and quietly. It also doesn't spin the fa when the car is in motion (they cut on in slow traffic or after coming to a stop). But if it's very hot, or if you crank everything to the max, it will spin up to high speed for better under-hood cooling.


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## vwshorty21 (Jan 23, 2011)

Can any one explain heat soaking very descriptive please


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

adrew said:


> The Yaris is interesting because it also has a variable speed cooling fan under the hood. When it isn't too hot outside, it spins the fan slowly and quietly. It also doesn't spin the fa when the car is in motion (they cut on in slow traffic or after coming to a stop). But if it's very hot, or if you crank everything to the max, it will spin up to high speed for better under-hood cooling.


Every car I've worked on has had a variable speed fan (well, 2 or 3 speeds, not continuiously variable, but the same effect).

IIRC, some longitudinal engines have a fan with a viscous fluid clutch, and as it warms up, it gets harder and makes the fan spin faster. That is some cool tech. Pun intended


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

vwshorty21 said:


> Can any one explain heat soaking very descriptive please


In this instance it is when the car has been baking in the sun all day and everything inside it is 140°F+ including the air, seats, dashboard, seat belt buckles, etc. It takes a long time to get all the residual heat out of there, kind of like when you come home after a vacation and had the A/C on 84° the whole time. Mine runs for a few hours before shutting off.

When people talk about heat soak with their engines, it's when everything under the hood is hotter than is optimal, due to high outside temperatures, racing, or a combination of the two. This contributes to hotter/less dense intake air, which in turn reduces power. Thus why you might notice degraded engine performance after sitting in traffic for 30 minutes with the A/C on, and also why people at the track park with their hoods up after a run (to aid cooling).


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

VDub2625 said:


> Every car I've worked on has had a variable speed fan (well, 2 or 3 speeds, not continuiously variable, but the same effect).
> 
> IIRC, some longitudinal engines have a fan with a viscous fluid clutch, and as it warms up, it gets harder and makes the fan spin faster. That is some cool tech. Pun intended


I've always thought fan clutches were an elegantly simple design. 

All of my older 4-cyl/FWD cars have had an on-off electric cooling fan where it is either on and loud or off and quiet, no in between. Some early '90s Toyotas and Lexuses have hydraulic cooling fans that run off the power steering pump.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

adrew said:


> I've always thought fan clutches were an elegantly simple design.
> 
> All of my older 4-cyl/FWD cars have had an on-off electric cooling fan where it is either on and loud or off and quiet, no in between. Some early '90s Toyotas and Lexuses have hydraulic cooling fans that run off the power steering pump.


The last VW with a single speed fan that I know of was at least the late 70s non-AC Rabbits. They have all had at least a 2 speed fan since then, and the AC models usually get an additional lower speed since the early 90s. I had assumed with something so trivial, that most manufacturers did the same. I need to get out more


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

So I've got shorty headers on my Ford 5.0L truck with steel exhaust going back to a couple of flowmaster 40 mufflers. There's no x pipe installed, but I'm getting a "tinny" sound from the system. What's causing that? Does the 302 not push enough air? 

Or do the flowmasters just not match up well?


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

efrie said:


> So I've got shorty headers on my Ford 5.0L truck with steel exhaust going back to a couple of flowmaster 40 mufflers. There's no x pipe installed, but I'm getting a "tinny" sound from the system. What's causing that? Does the 302 not push enough air?
> 
> Or do the flowmasters just not match up well?


When I was making up a side-pipe just for kicks, I found that pretty much everything in the exhaust affects the sound. Pipe diameter and length, material, even placement of the mufflers.

I found that when the exit of the exhuast was further from the last restriction (mufflers), the note was deeper and less barky.


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

drecian said:


> When I was making up a side-pipe just for kicks, I found that pretty much everything in the exhaust affects the sound. Pipe diameter and length, material, even placement of the mufflers.
> 
> I found that when the exit of the exhuast was further from the last restriction (mufflers), the note was deeper and less barky.


Well right now the flow masters are open with no pipe behind them, meant to put down turns on but got busy.


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## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

If I'm driving the Cruze and come to a complete stop then push the clutch in, pause, then put the shifter in first, there is a slight clunk and the car pushes forward a bit. It doesn't sound like it should not do this, but no matter how long of a pause there is between pressing the clutch pedal and putting the shifter in first, it always does it. Why might this happen?


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## Biff Beltsander (Jul 14, 2010)

DonPatrizio said:


> If I'm driving the Cruze and come to a complete stop then push the clutch in, pause, then put the shifter in first, there is a slight clunk and the car pushes forward a bit. It doesn't sound like it should not do this, but no matter how long of a pause there is between pressing the clutch pedal and putting the shifter in first, it always does it. Why might this happen?


Could have to deal with batteries.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

Alright, I have an interesting problem. I replaced my stock spring/struts in my GTI, with a Supersport cup kit. But I sold my tow vehicle, so the GTI is gonna drag my jetskis. It is far too low to tow though. The stock struts were stripped out and blown out. Can I use the shortened struts with the stock springs with no ill effects? 
Have this:








Need this back:


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

monoaural said:


> Can I use the shortened struts with the stock springs with no ill effects?


I'm no engineer, but I imagine the shortened height, paired with the soft stock springs supporting two jetskiis will likely have you topping out the strut on every bump, leading to a very early demise of your new struts.
Search the MKIII classifieds and find yourself a used set of Bilstein HD's to pair with your stock springs for towing season. Or, get kayaks for the roof instead of jetskiis.


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## Sold Over Sticker (Nov 29, 2009)

DonPatrizio said:


> If I'm driving the Cruze and come to a complete stop then push the clutch in, pause, then put the shifter in first, there is a slight clunk and the car pushes forward a bit. It doesn't sound like it should not do this, but no matter how long of a pause there is between pressing the clutch pedal and putting the shifter in first, it always does it. Why might this happen?


So wait, neutral, clutch in, 1st and clunk plus forward? That's normal. When the clutch it out in neutral, the internals of the gearbox are spinning. When you clutch in, they begin to slow down, but if you select first before they've stopped, that rotational inertia will try to move the car forward a touch. 

Now, the gearbox should spin down in a few seconds. If you can hold the clutch in for 10 seconds, and it still does it, it sounds like the clutch might be slightly dragging, or you're not pushing the clutch all the way to floor. 



Nitzer said:


> Could have to deal with batteries.


:sly: Explain.


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## Grey Mouser (Oct 30, 2003)

What are those nubs on the exterior window trim on some vehicles? Is it just a glass guide?

I can't find a pic of them, but some cars have 'em and others don't. Is there rhyme or reason to that?


*EDIT:
Found pic


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

MrMook said:


> I'm no engineer, but I imagine the shortened height, paired with the soft stock springs supporting two jetskiis will likely have you topping out the strut on every bump, leading to a very early demise of your new struts.
> Search the MKIII classifieds and find yourself a used set of Bilstein HD's to pair with your stock springs for towing season. Or, get kayaks for the roof instead of jetskiis.


That's what I am worried about. I think I want to find some subtle drop springs, to kill the rake, and keep it a bit stiffer. Of note, the jetskis are stand ups, and weigh ~300lbs a piece, I have a small lightweight trailer, so I figure 1200lbs max.


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## bigev007 (Dec 3, 2009)

Grey Mouser said:


> What are those nubs on the exterior window trim on some vehicles? Is it just a glass guide?
> 
> I can't find a pic of them, but some cars have 'em and others don't. Is there rhyme or reason to that?
> 
> ...


Those are normally on coupes. I believe they guide the window back in to the channel if it has flexed outward too far.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

Grey Mouser said:


> What are those nubs on the exterior window trim on some vehicles? Is it just a glass guide?
> 
> I can't find a pic of them, but some cars have 'em and others don't. Is there rhyme or reason to that?


To guide the window in the top of the frame when there a pressure differential.


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## TheTimob (Sep 13, 2003)

monoaural said:


> To guide the window in the top of the frame when there a pressure differential.


My car needs these things.

My window tracks aren't parallel due to the design of the car, so the rear of the front window does not touch the rear of the window frame when it is down even a little. The window can pull out slightly at highway speeds, enough to not be able to fully close.


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## P-Body (Mar 18, 2007)

When you lease a car, there's an option to pay the whole lease up front in one shot - why the hell would someone do this?

IE- Lease a Civic, total obligation is $6,000 over course of lease with $15,000 end of lease buy out. Option to pay the $6,000 up front.


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## Sold Over Sticker (Nov 29, 2009)

P-Body said:


> When you lease a car, there's an option to pay the whole lease up front in one shot - why the hell would someone do this?
> 
> IE- Lease a Civic, total obligation is $6,000 over course of lease with $15,000 end of lease buy out. Option to pay the $6,000 up front.


Not all lenders are like this, but on some one pay leases you get a break in the bank fee and the money factor.

Also, some people who are leasing like the convenience of paying their whole lease up front and not worrying about payments for the next few years.


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## Glopaticki (Sep 21, 2007)

When looking at a car side on, why do some cars have the brake pad on left hand side of the disc and others have it on the right? Advantages? Disadvantages?


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## P-Body (Mar 18, 2007)

Bre[email protected] said:


> Not all lenders are like this, but on some one pay leases you get a break in the bank fee and the money factor.
> 
> Also, some people who are leasing like the convenience of paying their whole lease up front and not worrying about payments for the next few years.


Thanks for the quick answer.

How much of a break are we talking about? Enough to make it worthwhile?

I'm not a member of The Financial Lounge, but how in the world does it make sense to hand over the entire lease amount up front instead of just paying it monthly and investing the rest?


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

Glopaticki said:


> When looking at a car side on, why do some cars have the brake pad on left hand side of the disc and others have it on the right? Advantages? Disadvantages?


Most FWD vehicles, if not all, will always have caliper in front of rotor, where as RWD will usually, and most always, have the caliper behind the rotor. I can't explain to you why, but that's just how it works.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Glopaticki said:


> When looking at a car side on, why do some cars have the brake pad on left hand side of the disc and others have it on the right? Advantages? Disadvantages?


I'd wager it has more to do with packaging than anything. I don't know where the steering apparatus is on a Mustang, but on the GTI (and most FWD cars), the tie rods attach to the spindle behind the rotor, which would make a forward caliper position easier to fit.


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## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> So wait, neutral, clutch in, 1st and clunk plus forward? That's normal. When the clutch it out in neutral, the internals of the gearbox are spinning. When you clutch in, they begin to slow down, but if you select first before they've stopped, that rotational inertia will try to move the car forward a touch.
> 
> Now, the gearbox should spin down in a few seconds. If you can hold the clutch in for 10 seconds, and it still does it, it sounds like the clutch might be slightly dragging, or you're not pushing the clutch all the way to floor.


If I pause for 1 second or 60 seconds it still does this. I put the pedal all the way to the floor. If I go back to neutral, clutch out, clutch in, first gear--then it doesn't do it again until I start moving and come to another complete stop.


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## Sold Over Sticker (Nov 29, 2009)

P-Body said:


> Thanks for the quick answer.
> 
> How much of a break are we talking about? Enough to make it worthwhile?
> 
> I'm not a member of The Financial Lounge, but how in the world does it make sense to hand over the entire lease amount up front instead of just paying it monthly and investing the rest?


Generally speaking it is, but that's highly subjective. TFL will be divided. Suffice to say it exists, people do it, but it's not terribly common. I personally wouldn't do it. 



DonPatrizio said:


> If I pause for 1 second or 60 seconds it still does this. I put the pedal all the way to the floor. If I go back to neutral, clutch out, clutch in, first gear--then it doesn't do it again until I start moving and come to another complete stop.


Hmmm. Got me there. Even that doesn't sound like clutch drag.


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

Glopaticki said:


> When looking at a car side on, why do some cars have the brake pad on left hand side of the disc and others have it on the right? Advantages? Disadvantages?
> 
> ]


I thought this had something to do with center of balance/gravity ??


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## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

skydive_007 said:


> I thought this had something to do with center of balance/gravity ??


On sports cars (high end ones) they usually try and place them as low as possible, but as others have said they are mainly placed where they are because they have to avoid suspension components. There is generally a ball joint right at the bottom and then the steering rods will be around the 8 or 4 oclock position. The caliper is generally on the other side from the steering (tie) rod.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

ThreadBomber said:


> On sports cars (high end ones) they usually try and place them as low as possible...


I was just reading the last months GRM, and they had a write-up on the Delta Wing project. The calipers in this case were placed _below_ the axle specifically to keep the center of gravity low:










Fronts are pretty low, too:









And the car if you haven't seen it:


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

MrMook said:


> And the car if you haven't seen it:


 
While we're on the subject, what's the deal with the Delta Wing car anyway? I'd think the extremely narrow front track would lead to low cornering speeds, but apparently not.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

I think because something like 70% of it's weight is supported by the rear wheels, and it's CG is nearly on the ground, it doesn't have the potential to roll. Try pinching a pair of scissors by the tip, and try to roll them like you would a pencil. 
I think it has gurney flaps (like on a plane) as well, which were allowed because it was experimental.


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## 1.8Tquattro (Aug 13, 2006)

This has probably been answered, but I don't feel like looking through 3500+ posts.

Why do trucks/SUVs/minivans have their rear side and back windows tinted from the factory but you never (this is where someone posts the exception and calls me an idiot) see it on cars?

I figure it started on older vehicles because they had larger windows and all that glass would turn the vehicle into a mobile greenhouse making it a bitch for the AC to keep cool but with rising belt lines most modern SUVs/minivans seem to have less glass area than your average car from the late 90's early 2000's and it has just carried over out of tradition. This is my guess anyway. Interested in a more informed answer though.


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## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

1.8Tquattro said:


> Why do trucks/SUVs/minivans have their rear side and back windows tinted from the factory but you never (this is where someone posts the exception and calls me an idiot) see it on cars?
> 
> I figure it started on older vehicles because they had larger windows and all that glass would turn the vehicle into a mobile greenhouse making it a bitch for the AC to keep cool but with rising belt lines most modern SUVs/minivans seem to have less glass area than your average car from the late 90's early 2000's and it has just carried over out of tradition. This is my guess anyway. Interested in a more informed answer though.


The laws regarding window tint on a vehicle differ state to state, which you probably knew already. For trucks, SUVs, & minivans, the laws say the back windows (any other than the first row + windshield) may be tinted for privacy. I think it goes back to when SUVs and trucks were more likely carrying cargo which was to be conceal from passerby's view. I don't know where they draw the line between SUV and car since many vehicles for sale now blur distinction between the two.


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## dieselraver (Nov 11, 2007)

ThreadBomber said:


> On sports cars (high end ones) they usually try and place them as low as possible, but as others have said they are mainly placed where they are because they have to avoid suspension components. There is generally a ball joint right at the bottom and then the steering rods will be around the 8 or 4 oclock position. The caliper is generally on the other side from the steering (tie) rod.


While on this topic can you expand on the design, advantages and reasoning behind a floating caliper brake system?


iPhone iv : tapatalk


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## Bullethead (Apr 25, 2011)

dieselraver said:


> While on this topic can you expand on the design, advantages and reasoning behind a floating caliper brake system?
> 
> iPhone iv : tapatalk


For street cars, floating calipers are lighter and easier to manufacture while providing good stopping power, even though they may only have half (usually just one or two) the pistons of a fixed type. Fixed calipers with multiple pistons CAN exert greater force because the pistons press on the disc from both sides, but weigh more and have more moving parts. In motorsport applications, unsprung weight VS increased stopping power... the latter makes sense for something with piles of horsepower or large mass. But in general use, floating calipers are common because the performance is more than adequate and cheaper to make.


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## tacticalbeaver (Apr 27, 2006)

Why do large vehicles such as buses frequently have drum brakes?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Bullethead said:


> Fixed calipers with multiple pistons CAN exert greater force because the pistons press on the disc from both sides


Don't floating calipers do this too? Just with a pull on one side, and a push on the other. Also, I believe I've seen floating calipers with dual-sided pistons.


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## DUBLUV401 (Oct 21, 2010)

Random question... I never follow Nascar but I was wondering why they are rear wheel drive? Is it because they wouldnt get much more power if the car were AWD?


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

*Question*: What's more fuel efficient? Going up a steep (maybe 20-25 degree hill) chugging along at 35-40 (the speed limit) in a higher gear (therefore keeping revs low) or downshifting to a lower gear, mashing the throttle and constantly accelerating until about 60 while upshifting normally, at which point you're halfway up and then holding that speed until 3/4ths of the way up and then coasting over the crest?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

DUBLUV401 said:


> Random question... I never follow Nascar but I was wondering why they are rear wheel drive? Is it because they wouldnt get much more power if the car were AWD?


There's really no need for AWD, they aren't going over rough surfaces.

Here's my question. How come cars have adoor ajar and trunk ajar lights, but I've never seen a hood ajar light? Seems like something pretty damn important to know about, especially in certian cars where you can easily kick the latch (my mother's Hyundai, I've done it several times). 

How about air machines? Why are they all still so archaic? I would die before I'd pay a quarter to borrow an air compressor for 5 minutes, but I would gladly pay for one of those fancy digital ones that auto-set the pressure for me. Why haven't these gotten more popular? They used to have them at a few area Hesses (and they were free!), but they took them out for some reason :screwy:


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

VDub2625 said:


> There's really no need for AWD, they aren't going over rough surfaces.
> 
> Here's my question. How come cars have adoor ajar and trunk ajar lights, but I've never seen a hood ajar light? Seems like something pretty damn important to know about, especially in certian cars where you can easily kick the latch (my mother's Hyundai, I've done it several times).
> 
> :


probably because when you drive you're looking straight ahead. and that's where the hood is.

having a light in the dash to advise you that the thing right in front of you is open is kind of like having a dummy bell for seat belts..... oh wait.

point is, something that obvious shouldn't need more equipment for you to be aware of it.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

TwoLitreVW said:


> probably because when you drive you're looking straight ahead. and that's where the hood is.
> 
> having a light in the dash to advise you that the thing right in front of you is open is kind of like having a dummy bell for seat belts..... oh wait.
> 
> point is, something that obvious shouldn't need more equipment for you to be aware of it.


A hood can be popped without being raised, and I've seen plenty of people driving around like that. Sure, the latch is secure unless you pull the lever, but it's MORE secure when locked.


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## MKV Aaron (Oct 18, 2007)

Pretty sure my GTI has a hood popped light.


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

VDub2625 said:


> Also, I believe I've seen floating calipers with dual-sided pistons.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

MKV Aaron said:


> Pretty sure my GTI has a hood popped light.


I googled it and it seems that VWs do have a hood open indicator on the MFA display. Though I have never seen a dedicated light.


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

C4 A6 said:


> *Question*: What's more fuel efficient? Going up a steep (maybe 20-25 degree hill) chugging along at 35-40 (the speed limit) in a higher gear (therefore keeping revs low) or downshifting to a lower gear, mashing the throttle and constantly accelerating until about 60 while upshifting normally, at which point you're halfway up and then holding that speed until 3/4ths of the way up and then coasting over the crest?


Depends on the engine and where the best BSFC is. In general for gasoline engines moderate RPM and high load (butterfly closed is a major restriction) will lead to the best fuel consumption. So realistically the best way is somewhere between the two. If you look at hyper milers they'll drive to a certain engine load, not RPM or speed.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

VDub2625 said:


> I googled it and it seems that VWs do have a hood open indicator on the MFA display. Though I have never seen a dedicated light.


 Newer gmt900s have hood popped notification, but also in its information enter.


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## muffintop (Oct 15, 2009)

So if my Miata has 50:50 weight distribution does that mean I don't have to rotate my tires.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

muffintop said:


> So if my Miata has 50:50 weight distribution does that mean I don't have to rotate my tires.


Front tires do steering and most braking, and that causes more wear. Weight distribution has no (or nil) effect on tire wear.


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## mm3 (Oct 10, 2010)

If I'm not quick enough with my shifts, and the revs go down to idle (from around 3000RPM) before I let off the clutch for the next gear (say 3rd --> 4th), is it doing significant damage to the clutch considering that letting the clutch out brings the motor back into sync with the wheels? 

I ask because I'm still not perfected on my rev-matching on the GTI and it happens quite often.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Perfect rev-matches aren't required but you are wearing the clutch. Just ease off the gas while clutching to shift, don't let go completely. Let it fall slightly, but not all the way, and that should help. it will become second nature. it's hard to describe this part of manual driving because most people don't even realize they do it.


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## mm3 (Oct 10, 2010)

VDub2625 said:


> Perfect rev-matches aren't required but you are wearing the clutch. Just ease off the gas while clutching to shift, don't let go completely. Let it fall slightly, but not all the way, and that should help. it will become second nature. it's hard to describe this part of manual driving because most people don't even realize they do it.


I definitely know what you're trying to describe. I do it sometimes, but not often. I suppose that means I'm getting the hang of it. It's hard to not let off the gas completely because the motor is so quick to rev. But, I guess it'll become a subconscious activity after X amount of time. :thumbup:


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

VDub2625 said:


> There's really no need for AWD, they aren't going over rough surfaces.


That, and the fact that AWD does nothing but rob power at higher speeds, and since NASCAR isn't exactly about powering out of corners starting at 40 and trying to get to 120 without losing control, they shouldn't need to use it.

Plus, it's added weight.


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

In regards to oil, since some cars dirty their oil quicker than others, just because oil is black doesn't always mean it's due for a change.

On the flip side, if the oil is still golden and new looking, does it mean it's still good to go for a whlie longer?


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## vwb5t (Jun 23, 2008)

VDub2625 said:


> I googled it and it seems that VWs do have a hood open indicator on the MFA display. Though I have never seen a dedicated light.


Driver door open








Driver door and hood open








Driver door, hood and trunk open


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

DUBLUV401 said:


> Random question... I never follow Nascar but I was wondering why they are rear wheel drive? Is it because they wouldnt get much more power if the car were AWD?


I think it's more because NASCAR has a unique sense of tradition. At its core, it's all about big engines and RWD, because thats what the original moonshiners ran with back in the day. Tradition is also why they have some strange rules, like running carburators instead of fuel injection (until very recently I think) and I believe they are not, and have never been turbo or supercharged.


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## Waarp (Mar 30, 2012)

I have a rotary question. I've heard that you should wind the rotary out to prevent carbon buildup. But the harder you drive it the more oil is injected into it. Doesn't that work against what you're trying to accomplish?


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## Turbo-D (Jan 28, 2003)

mm3 said:


> If I'm not quick enough with my shifts, and the revs go down to idle (from around 3000RPM) before I let off the clutch for the next gear (say 3rd --> 4th), is it doing significant damage to the clutch considering that letting the clutch out brings the motor back into sync with the wheels?
> 
> I ask because I'm still not perfected on my rev-matching on the GTI and it happens quite often.


I have a mk2 gti with a light flywheel and that makes this problem even worse. If I don't make a quick shift i sometimes blip the gas to bring the revs up right as I'm letting the clutch out.


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## 1995Camry (Jun 17, 2012)

ok i have a question....when people have tons of negative camber to look cool (the guys you all like to make fun of) how do they not wear the insides of tires bald in a few thousand miles, or even sooner i would think. Or do they wear like that and people are just willing to deal with it. I really cant think of a reason why they wouldnt wear the the inside.


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## therichisgood (Mar 7, 2004)

1995Camry said:


> ok i have a question....when people have tons of negative camber to look cool (the guys you all like to make fun of) how do they not wear the insides of tires bald in a few thousand miles, or even sooner i would think. Or do they wear like that and people are just willing to deal with it. I really cant think of a reason why they wouldnt wear the the inside.


I used to drive a lowered aircooled Beetle of which the rear wheels cambered negatively due to suspension design, and the insides of the tires did wear out quite fast. One advantage I had over some stancers was that the tires I ran weren't an inside/outside design so I could dismount them and flip them around to get some more life out of them.

There are some tapered "camber tires" in development though (or maybe already out?) that allow you to run camber without having that inner wear problem.

*edit*
Oh and the reason most do this is because it's the current fad.. whether to achieve a certain look or to be able get a wide wheel/tire combo to fit under the fenders. 
Technically it's _supposed_ to be done while dialing in your race car's suspension for optimal performance.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

R-Acs said:


> Technically it's _supposed_ to be done while dialing in your race car's suspension for optimal performance.


... to a degree, yes. 






LOL get it? Degree! Camber! BWAHAHAHAHAA!


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## AKADriver (Nov 20, 2001)

Waarp said:


> I have a rotary question. I've heard that you should wind the rotary out to prevent carbon buildup. But the harder you drive it the more oil is injected into it. Doesn't that work against what you're trying to accomplish?


The carbon fouling isn't caused by burning oil; it's caused by running relatively rich and having a slow, cool burn.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

MrMook said:


> ... to a degree, yes.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


To a varying degree. 

Yes, I got it. WhoooooOOOP!


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## DUBLUV401 (Oct 21, 2010)

C4 A6 said:


> That, and the fact that AWD does nothing but rob power at higher speeds, and since NASCAR isn't exactly about powering out of corners starting at 40 and trying to get to 120 without losing control, they shouldn't need to use it.
> 
> Plus, it's added weight.





MrMook said:


> I think it's more because NASCAR has a unique sense of tradition. At its core, it's all about big engines and RWD, because thats what the original moonshiners ran with back in the day. Tradition is also why they have some strange rules, like running carburators instead of fuel injection (until very recently I think) and I believe they are not, and have never been turbo or supercharged.


Thanks :thumbup:


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## autoxmack (Dec 2, 2007)

Fantastic puns aside...

When I was using my Civic as a DD and autocross car, I ran -3.5* camber for years with no problems, but I had my toe set to 0*. When I was trying to sort out spring rates / lengths and swaybar settings, I think I may have had up to -5.0* at one point. I got very good at dialing in some toe out before making my runs and setting it back to 0 for the DD duties.

Toe kills tires, not camber. Camber will dictate _how_ the tire wears but toe is the actual cause. Many of the Honda forums have guys coming on saying 'OMGZ needs camber adjusterz, went low and tirz are trashed!' Asking every single one if they got an alignment afterwords, the universal answer is 'no'. Without an alignment when lowered (introducing toe) and adjusting the camber to 0*, the tires will still wear poorly, just not on the inside edge. 

Take a look at some of the older BMWs and you can see that they came with negative rear camber from the factory. Now, how some of these guys get away with it when they have the outside edge of the tire not touching the ground... I have no idea. I've only dealt with camber and alignment settings from a functional standpoint.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

MrMook said:


> I think it's more because NASCAR has a unique sense of tradition. At its core, it's all about big engines and RWD, because thats what the original moonshiners ran with back in the day. Tradition is also why they have some strange rules, like running carburators instead of fuel injection (until very recently I think) and I believe they are not, and have never been turbo or supercharged.


NASCAR is, at it's core, a driver's sport. The regulations, as I understand it, apply so strictly to each team that no matter who builds the engine and car, be it Ford, GM, or Toyota, they come out basically identical. NASCAR is commendable in that the players are the major difference between teams, not who makes the parts (despite the pushiness of advertising from the car companies related to it). 



1995Camry said:


> ok i have a question....when people have tons of negative camber to look cool (the guys you all like to make fun of) how do they not wear the insides of tires bald in a few thousand miles, or even sooner i would think. Or do they wear like that and people are just willing to deal with it. I really cant think of a reason why they wouldnt wear the the inside.





autoxmack said:


> Take a look at some of the older BMWs and you can see that they came with negative rear camber from the factory. Now, how some of these guys get away with it when they have the outside edge of the tire not touching the ground... I have no idea. I've only dealt with camber and alignment settings from a functional standpoint.


This guy ^ is correct. A tire that isn't driving straight ahead scrubs the ground way more than a tire that's just crooked. Although, extreme camber cars do wear faster than normal suspension setups, they still don't wear as quickly as bad toe. If your toe is horrible enough, even with 0 camber, it'll wear the tire in as little as a few thousand miles.


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

Waarp said:


> I have a rotary question. I've heard that you should wind the rotary out to prevent carbon buildup. But the harder you drive it the more oil is injected into it. Doesn't that work against what you're trying to accomplish?


Because it's the exhaust gas temp and tip speed that cleans the carbon off. It's babying the motor at low RPM's that causes carbon buildup. The extra oil just goes out with the carbon buildup.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

autoxmack said:


> Take a look at some of the older BMWs and you can see that they came with negative rear camber from the factory. Now, how some of these guys get away with it when they have the outside edge of the tire not touching the ground... I have no idea. I've only dealt with camber and alignment settings from a functional standpoint.


 That isn't a factory setting. The rear bushings wear out, and introduce the camber. Its a really time consuming repair, so it doesnt get fixed.


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## SVTJayC (Mar 30, 2006)

Why can't a transmission manufacturer produce a bad downshift proof manual? If GM can lock you out of up shifts based on RPM, temp, etc. Why can't you be electronically locked out of a downshift based on RPM + present speed? Nissan already has a manual the communicates with the ECU for rev matching, The S5 electronically keeps track of what gear your In and suggests up or down shifts, and GM can lock you out of gears. Seems like all the pieces are there.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

The VWs I've driven, the syncros tend to lock you out, since you have to spin the input shaft up to impossible speeds to get into the wrong gear, it basically won't let you. I have this problem with first a lot. it won't let me in unless I'm almost completely stopped (cars with worn syncros let you in with a SLAM BANG usually).


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

SVTJayC said:


> Why can't a transmission manufacturer produce a bad downshift proof manual? If GM can lock you out of up shifts based on RPM, temp, etc. Why can't you be electronically locked out of a downshift based on RPM + present speed? Nissan already has a manual the communicates with the ECU for rev matching, The S5 electronically keeps track of what gear your In and suggests up or down shifts, and GM can lock you out of gears. Seems like all the pieces are there.


The GM upshift device is rather simple, as it moves a single part in the way of second gear at the shift lever itself under certain circumstances. To incorporate that over all of the gears would be complex and problematic. You could block out the 1-2 shift gate (or 1-2 _and_ 3-4 with the same device on a 6-speed) rather easily using a similar method, though. If there's another way to do it (such as modify the aforementioned synchros) that's a different matter entirely. :beer:

It would probably annoy the hell out of people and they'd disable it like they do the 1-4 shift. Most folks buying a new car with a manual are accomplished drivers, so I don't think that the market will dictate that it happens anyway. :beer: :beer:


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## freedo84gti (Sep 26, 2010)

why do people put black tape over their headlights in a race?


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## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

freedo84gti said:


> why do people put black tape over their headlights in a race?


So if they bump someone and break a headlight, the glass/plastic doesn't go all over the track :beer:


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## freedo84gti (Sep 26, 2010)

ThreadBomber said:


> So if they bump someone and break a headlight, the glass/plastic doesn't go all over the track :beer:


thought so, thanks :beer:


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## SVTJayC (Mar 30, 2006)

Air and water do mix said:


> The GM upshift device is rather simple, as it moves a single part in the way of second gear at the shift lever itself under certain circumstances. To incorporate that over all of the gears would be complex and problematic. You could block out the 1-2 shift gate (or 1-2 _and_ 3-4 with the same device on a 6-speed) rather easily using a similar method, though. If there's another way to do it (such as modify the aforementioned synchros) that's a different matter entirely. :beer:
> 
> It would probably annoy the hell out of people and they'd disable it like they do the 1-4 shift. Most folks buying a new car with a manual are accomplished drivers, so I don't think that the market will dictate that it happens anyway. :beer: :beer:


I dunno. A few Porsche guys with a good amount of seat time who've nuked motors by missing a downshift from 5-4 and gone into 2. I think while it's not super common, it's probably more common than you think. There was a great article in the latest PCA mag written by a DE driver about the merits of the pdk. No more missed downshifts was one of them.


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## ByronLLN (Jul 29, 2004)

SVTJayC said:


> I dunno. A few Porsche guys with a good amount of seat time who've nuked motors by missing a downshift from 5-4 and gone into 2. I think while it's not super common, it's probably more common than you think. There was a great article in the latest PCA mag written by a DE driver about the merits of the pdk. No more missed downshifts was one of them.


Hyundai does something like this, because you can't get second gear in a Genesis Coupe when you need it on-track.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

VDub2625 said:


> The VWs I've driven, the syncros tend to lock you out, since you have to spin the input shaft up to impossible speeds to get into the wrong gear, i


I've accidentally gone 5 to 2 on the highway in both my 85 and 96 VWs. Have always caught it as I start to let the clutch out so I've never overrevved.

1st is nearly impossible, and you need to be at an almost complete stop to get it in.


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

SVTJayC said:


> I dunno. A few Porsche guys with a good amount of seat time who've nuked motors by missing a downshift from 5-4 and gone into 2. I think while it's not super common, it's probably more common than you think. There was a great article in the latest PCA mag written by a DE driver about the merits of the pdk. No more missed downshifts was one of them.


That's exactly how I picked up a 1991 Audi Cq for less than a grand in 1994 or 1995. Owner blew a downshift and shot a rod through the block. :facepalm:


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

question regarding intake temperature and octane 

i was told on another forum that decreasing the engine bay temp, leading to lower intake temps gives you a theoretical octane boost 

can anyone confirm/ deny, or explain?


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## ABATurbo (Feb 11, 2010)

71DubBugBug said:


> question regarding intake temperature and octane
> 
> i was told on another forum that decreasing the engine bay temp, leading to lower intake temps gives you a theoretical octane boost
> 
> can anyone confirm/ deny, or explain?


Decreasing engine bay temps/IATs may allow your ECU to advance the timing/inject more fuel due to the raise in air density. So you may be making slightly more power with cooler temps, but octane does not = power. Octane is the resistance to detontation/knock that the given fuel has. Cooler air will also help prevent knock, so I guess in a way you could say that. However, that's a huge stretch and it's not really true.


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## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

*Do clutches slip more when warm outside*

01 Mazda Protege with 158 000 kilometers (98k miles)

On a cold winter day, or even during spring or fall when the weather is moderate, my clutch feels fine... feels the way a clutch with 100k miles should feel. But today, weather went up to 100 Fahrenheit. In consequence, the clutch feels like it’s coated with Turtle Wax. My shifts from 2 and on are fine since I rev match them in, but starting off in 1st, the thing feels like it’s on its last leg. I also get this very weird shake when taking off (while my foot is still letting go of the clutch): almost like an intermittent slip that makes many things shake. This intermittent shake also goes away when it’s colder outside or I've been driving my car for less than 10 minutes.

So question: do clutches slip "alot" more when warmer outside

Thanks


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

Clutches are made to still function at temperatures significantly higher than a 100 degree day. Especially with a relatively stock car. If your clutch is slipping there's something wrong.


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## feels_road (Jan 27, 2005)

A clutch that is starting to fail due to wear first slips in the highest gear, under load.

Some clutch designs allow small amounts of oil to seep onto the plate. Could be the reason, here.


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## gsprobe (Jan 29, 2006)

Okay, not a question but more of an admission. I cannot help those people asking about fitment and wheel ET's w/ various wheels. I have looked at the 1010 website, read about it- all that - but I still cannot grasp the basic concept of what to expect with varying wheel spacers/various ET's, and then changing the wheel widths and sizes.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I'm confused- are you confused about what ET is? Or how spacers and wheel widths affect it? 

ET is the measurement of the backplane distance from the centerline. This is an important measuring tool (instead of just using the straight up backspace measurment) because wheel bearings (and physical placement of parts) are generally engineered to run within a certain range (this is generally on the positive side, meaning the mounting face of the wheel is usually outside the wheel centerline). Think if you had a really, really low ET wheel. it would be outside the body, and put a lot of pressure on the bearing. A really high ET wheel would do the same, and probably crash into suspension components.

Wheel size affects it because that can change the centerline of the wheel. Adding bigger lips will pull the center out, thus increasing ET. ET runs negative to 0 to positive, so pay attention to your number line


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## mookieblaylock (Sep 25, 2005)

on my 98 e350 econoline rv the rear steel brake lines are beyond dangerously rusted and it has blown out all the fluid on the line parallel w/ the rear axle. These are dual rear wheels w/ drum brakes. Where the steel line goes into the wheel at the "wheel cylinder" there is no way the brake line will come loose ,its rust welded to the wheel cylinder. So my question is can the line just be cut right there and the 2 wheel cylinder retaining bolts either unscrewed or the heads ground off then just remove and replace the wheel cylinder?thanks

this is what a new one looks like


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## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

If you are replacing the line anyway, yes, you can cut it and remove the wheel cylinder and replace that as well. It's a good idea to replace them anyway if you're doing lines on a vehicle that old, as you're already doing the pain-in-the-ass part of the job which is removing and reinstalling the line itself. And as you've seen the wheel cylinders get really nasty.

But you might not want to grind the heads off the bolts unless you have to. Gotta get those screws out eventually to bolt the new wheel cylinder in....


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## stascom (Sep 12, 2009)

2.0_Mazda said:


> 01 Mazda Protege with 158 000 kilometers (98k miles)
> 
> On a cold winter day, or even during spring or fall when the weather is moderate, my clutch feels fine... feels the way a clutch with 100k miles should feel. But today, weather went up to 100 Fahrenheit. In consequence, the clutch feels like it’s coated with Turtle Wax. My shifts from 2 and on are fine since I rev match them in, but starting off in 1st, the thing feels like it’s on its last leg. I also get this very weird shake when taking off (while my foot is still letting go of the clutch): almost like an intermittent slip that makes many things shake. This intermittent shake also goes away when it’s colder outside or I've been driving my car for less than 10 minutes.
> 
> ...


Your clutch fluid might be bad. It, obviously, gets hotter when it's hot out. Might be old and starting to boil.


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## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

stascom said:


> Your clutch fluid might be bad. It, obviously, gets hotter when it's hot out. Might be old and starting to boil.


I've answered a bunch of questions in this thread but now I've got one. On very hot days, the brake pedal gets real squishy, goes to the floor, still stops the car but with lots of pedal force, not much braking force, and pulls oddly. Sometimes feels like only rear brakes are working, other times a pull to one side or the other like only one front caliper is working.

Bad master cylinder? Or is this what boiling fluid feels like? (It's a rarely used car that is neglected, fluid is OLD.)

Car always stops, fluid level is not changing.


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## Tripicana (Dec 17, 2004)

sounds to me almost like the vacum booster. 
one way to check it; with teh car off, step on the brake pedal 20 times to bleed down the vacum booster. now step and hold the brake. now turn on the car, your brake pedal should drop about 3 inches or go almost to the floor. if you dont feel a drop, or not very much, your booster is going bad.


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

Brake rotors: My left front needs turned. Do I need to do the right side too?


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## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

Tripicana said:


> sounds to me almost like the vacum booster.
> one way to check it; with teh car off, step on the brake pedal 20 times to bleed down the vacum booster. now step and hold the brake. now turn on the car, your brake pedal should drop about 3 inches or go almost to the floor. if you dont feel a drop, or not very much, your booster is going bad.


That was actually my first thought, it behaves as if there is _too much_ vacuum assist (or something's shot in the MC). I was hoping it was something cheaper to fix, like old fluid.

Following your instructions, it behaves as it should. Start car, pedal drops to a reasonable location. But start driving when it's real hot out, and it goes 'almost to the floor' very easily. Sit at a stop light with your foot on the brake and it keeps dropping. Lift foot, pump a few times and it gets a little firmer, then drops to the floor again when held.

Drive in cooler ambient temps and everything is fine.


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## FissionMailed (May 26, 2006)

sjt1985 said:


> Brake rotors: My left front needs turned. Do I need to do the right side too?


Turning rotors. Eh. Have you looked up how much new ones cost? If your car is old enough, you may end up paying only a few bucks more for new ones. With my old Rabbit, it was $10 apiece for new discs up front and like $8.50 each to turn them. That may be kind of an extreme case, but...worth looking into, maybe.

Anyways, I'd say yes: the thickness of the rotor affects the way it heats up, and it may cause it to pull ever-so-slightly in one direction as they won't absorb heat equally.

Or maybe I'm just clueless, that's a distinct possiblity.


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## Tripicana (Dec 17, 2004)

ok, the dropping to the floor sounds like master cylinder.
id rather change the master, usualy you dont have to climb under the dash to unhook the brake pedal. if you get a new master, make sure you completely bench bleed it per instructions. i just did one a few weeks ago on a friends car and it took a good 10 minutes of stroking the piston to get all the internal air out.

it could also be air in the line... my experience with air in the line, you go to hit the brakes, and it just sinks with no brakes. pump it and brakes work good.

the bad masters i've seen either just drop to the floor and pumping doesn't revive brakes, or brakes work, but the pedal sinks as you're holding it.

bad brake booster will take extra firm effort to brake car


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

FissionMailed said:


> Turning rotors. Eh. Have you looked up how much new ones cost? If your car is old enough, you may end up paying only a few bucks more for new ones. With my old Rabbit, it was $10 apiece for new discs up front and like $8.50 each to turn them. That may be kind of an extreme case, but...worth looking into, maybe.


After a look, front rotors for the miata are 21.99 and turning them is 10 bucks. ALMOST worth it to buy new ones. Leads into another question:

If I'm doing auto-x and such, will the basic steel rotors from the auto parts store hold up OK? Is there any reason to spend $60+ each for a 'high performance' rotor?


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## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

sjt1985 said:


> After a look, front rotors for the miata are 21.99 and turning them is 10 bucks. ALMOST worth it to buy new ones. Leads into another question:
> 
> If I'm doing auto-x and such, will the basic steel rotors from the auto parts store hold up OK? Is there any reason to spend $60+ each for a 'high performance' rotor?


Autox? 'basic steel' as you say is absolutely fine. Plenty of fast E-stock cars out there on oem-type rotors. And often cheap crappy pads on the fronts to help get the brake bias correct.

Track events? Brake upgrades are a good idea but often basic rotors are still just fine with pad and fluid upgrades.


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## AKADriver (Nov 20, 2001)

There is no, zero, zip advantage to drilled/slotted/etc. on a Miata.

After doing the brakes on my van (and with how cheap they are on Amazon and Rockauto) I spring for the "premium" Centric rotors with the black coating on the hat.

With how thin Miata rotors are I can't imagine having them turned. You can, as long as they're above min thickness, but you might get one turn out of them.


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## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

Thanks for the replies. I will look into this when possible, or may just sell my car when its not too warm outside.


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

AKADriver said:


> There is no, zero, zip advantage to drilled/slotted/etc. on a Miata.
> 
> With how thin Miata rotors are I can't imagine having them turned. You can, as long as they're above min thickness, but you might get one turn out of them.


Oreillys employee said there was just enough material on there for this turn, but I will need to buy new rotors next time. What is the general consensus out there regarding rotors getting 'warped'? I did not experience pulsating brakes, but rather rubbing on the brake pad each revolution of the wheel. Hopefully this turning will fix that, but could my hub also be bad?


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

sjt1985 said:


> Oreillys employee said there was just enough material on there for this turn, but I will need to buy new rotors next time. What is the general consensus out there regarding rotors getting 'warped'? I did not experience pulsating brakes, but rather rubbing on the brake pad each revolution of the wheel. Hopefully this turning will fix that, but could my hub also be bad?


As long as they're turned correctly, you shouldn't have a problem. 

There is one caveat, though. When you turn rotors you're (obviously) removing material. It weakens it because of less mass and since it _has_ less mass, it is a smaller heat dam and cannot absorb heat quite as well. Those two things coupled together can cause warpage more easily next time. If you just drive back and forth to work it may never be a problem, but if you autocross or go to the track you need every advantage you can get, so I wouldn't recommend turning (or cheap-o Chinese knock-off rotors).

"Back in the day" there was a ton of extra material in a rotor, but now they're engineered within an inch (.001"?) of their lives. Turn a rotor on something like a '77 Ford pickup and watch the irregularities of the casting, then turn a new rotor and see the difference. That difference is huuuuuuge. :beer:


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

Roadkilled78 said:


> I've answered a bunch of questions in this thread but now I've got one. On very hot days, the brake pedal gets real squishy, goes to the floor, still stops the car but with lots of pedal force, not much braking force, and pulls oddly. Sometimes feels like only rear brakes are working, other times a pull to one side or the other like only one front caliper is working.
> 
> Bad master cylinder? Or is this what boiling fluid feels like? (It's a rarely used car that is neglected, fluid is OLD.)
> 
> Car always stops, fluid level is not changing.


As said, it's likely a booster or the booster check valve.

That being said, change that damn brake fluid! It absorbs water over time and should be changed every 2 years, period. If the car sits a long time, the heavier water will sink to the bottom and rust cast-iron parts and suddenly you're doing a brake job that may not have been needed otherwise. :beer:


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## GTIVR6MK4 (Sep 14, 2000)

Some carsr ive seen, (many MK4's) have rear wheels that are a bit tilted, is this called camber? and how do they achieve this? What is the name of the part and how is the angle controlled?


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

GTIVR6MK4 said:


> Some carsr ive seen, (many MK4's) have rear wheels that are a bit tilted, is this called camber? and how do they achieve this? What is the name of the part and how is the angle controlled?


Yes, (negative) camber is when the top of the wheel is closer to the center of the car than the bottom of the wheel. About halfway down this page is a good description of camber, and the other two alignment factors.

http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible_pg3.html

There is no name of the 'part', rather just an adjustment of the existing parts in the suspension system. Alignment shops use fancy racks to measure the alignment of the wheels relative to the vehicle.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Specifically to a Volkswagen with twist beam rear axle, they sell shim kits that you put behind the stub axle to correct toe and camber issues.


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## DISI 2.3T (Apr 22, 2004)

Can you park your electric car in the rain and charge it?

AKA, I dont have a garage. (or an electric car)


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

DISI 2.3T said:


> Can you park your electric car in the rain and charge it?
> 
> AKA, I dont have a garage. (or an electric car)


If you can't, I would be very surprised. 

Company I work for builds electric bulldozers and during testing, they forded lakes that nearly submerged the operator. Never had issues.


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## autoxmack (Dec 2, 2007)

DISI 2.3T said:


> Can you park your electric car in the rain and charge it?


Yes. Some municipalities have installed outdoor charging stations.

http://products.schneider-electric....ns/outdoor-electric-vehicle-charging-station/

Don't know anything about that companies products, just giving an example.


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## Glopaticki (Sep 21, 2007)

Don't know about the US but here in Aus some 4wds have the brake lights and indicators on the bottom bar instead of the normal tail-lights which aren't used. What's the reasoning behind this? Seems like a waste of tail-lights.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I've always assumed styling. Kia did it in their one of their SUVs too.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

sjt1985 said:


> Yes, (negative) camber is when the top of the wheel is closer to the center of the car than the bottom of the wheel. About halfway down this page is a good description of camber, and the other two alignment factors.
> 
> http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible_pg3.html
> 
> There is no name of the 'part', rather just an adjustment of the existing parts in the suspension system. Alignment shops use fancy racks to measure the alignment of the wheels relative to the vehicle.


 Technically, on a MKIV Volkswagen (and probably most trailing-arm suspensions), you do need an additional part to adjust camber. Camber is not adjustable with the stock rear beam (it only goes up and down, though it does so in an arc, so there is some toe-change through the travel). The part you would need is called a shim, and it looks like this: 











I have a question: Is there a way to pop-start an automatic car?


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## FissionMailed (May 26, 2006)

MrMook said:


> I have a question: Is there a way to pop-start an automatic car?


 The answer, for all intents and purposes, is "no."


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

Glopaticki said:


> Don't know about the US but here in Aus some 4wds have the brake lights and indicators on the bottom bar instead of the normal tail-lights which aren't used. What's the reasoning behind this? Seems like a waste of tail-lights.


 Some kid of taillight height requirement perhaps?

I've always wondered this as well since the ute and some commercial versions (Holden Rodeo, Hilux, Troopy) don't run the bumper lights.


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

On cars with a big supercharger with the scoop bolted on top, do the butterflies on the scoop do anything but look pretty? I'm asking more about carbed motors since the carbs would still have to have the throttle plates after/downwind of the venturies and jets?


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

on a fwd car 
i know if its the front tire both need to be the same 
how about changing only one of the rears


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

71DubBugBug said:


> on a fwd car
> i know if its the front tire both need to be the same
> how about changing only one of the rears


 You can put a different size tire, it won't harm the car mechanically, but the alignment will be off as the smaller (or larger) tire adjusts the thrust angle. So it'll steer funny and wear all the tires slightly. If both rears match, then it'll be fine.


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## Dr. Woo (Feb 28, 2003)

I don't think this deserves its own thread, so here it is: 

*Pickup Naming Conventions De-Mystified* 
(from Autoblog, via GMC) 
_Editor's Note: For more than 100 years, GMC pickups have hauled the loads that have helped keep America running. They've come in different shapes and sizes and with names that denote their capabilities. What do all those names and numbers mean? This first in an occasional series of "GMC Pickups 101" features explains the naming history of the fullsize pickup. 

DETROIT – When three truck builders – Randolph, Reliance and Rapid – merged to become GMC in 1912, the brand's range of gasoline- and electric-powered trucks used model numbers between 1 and 12, each denoting payload in thousands of pounds, or how much weight could be loaded on the rear. 

Today, the labels "½-ton", "¾-ton" and "1-ton" are still used industry wide for fullsize pickup truck classes despite their having little connection to the trucks' capabilities. For 2013, a GMC Sierra 1500 "½-ton" has a payload capacity that ranges from 1,550-1,940 pounds – considerably more than the 1,000 pounds once implied. A "1-ton" Sierra 3500HD can haul up to 7,215 pounds; almost four times the 2,000 pounds its moniker suggests. 

"The payload-based naming convention for pickups existed right from the beginning," said General Motors Heritage Center Manager Greg Wallace. "The ½-ton, ¾-ton, and 1-ton models became most popular with retail customers over a few decades, not just for GMC but all manufacturers. While payload capacities have grown since, those three names stuck." 

As with payload classifications, GMC helped pioneer other naming conventions for pickups. In 1967, GMC was the first company to use 1500, 2500 and 3500 to designate its three truck models, numbers that were based off the first segment of vehicle identification numbers, or VINs, and denoted hauling capability. Those numbers remain an integral part of the GMC naming strategy and every current fullsize truck sold by an American automaker uses numbers starting with 15, 25 and 35 to denote the three classifications._​


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

FissionMailed said:


> The answer, for all intents and purposes, is "no."


 You can push start old PowerGlides. 



Wiki said:


> Most vehicles with automatic transmissions cannot be started this way because the hydraulic torque converter in the transmission will not allow the engine to be driven by the wheels (some very old automatic transmissions, e.g., General Motors' two-speed Powerglide transmission, have an extra pump on the output shaft which can power the transmission's hydraulics, and cars equipped with such transmissions can be push started).


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

drecian said:


> On cars with a big supercharger with the scoop bolted on top, do the butterflies on the scoop do anything but look pretty? I'm asking more about carbed motors since the carbs would still have to have the throttle plates after/downwind of the venturies and jets?


 Not sure I quite understand what you mean by if they "do" anything? They open to let air in and close to block air from coming in. Much like on a fuel injected car with a roots-type supercharger (03+ Cobra, modern Mercedes, MINI, etc.), the supercharger can only work with the air that the throttle plate lets in. 

The butterflies on the intake you are talking about as seen here: 

http://image.moparmusclemagazine.co...opar_superchargers+bug_catcher_air_intake.jpg 

are no different than the throttle plate on a modern throttle body in that they cannot finely-regulate air intake for idle conditions and best-possible fuel economy. On a modern fuel injected car, this is what you have sensors for (MAF/MAP, o2, throttle position, idle air control, etc.) to talk to the fuel injectors and ignition. On the carburetor engines, the fuel and air intake is regulated by the internals of the carburetor(s).


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

That's what he's talking about. A few of the carbureted blower cars have faux throttle plates on the top of the engine. To answer his question, no I do not believe they serve any function aside from looking cool. They serve a purpose on the big mechanically injected cars, but the throttling on the carb cars is left to the TV's in the carbs.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Dr. Woo said:


> I don't think this deserves its own thread, so here it is:
> 
> *Pickup Naming Conventions De-Mystified*
> (from Autoblog, via GMC)
> ...


 That seems pretty pointless.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

How did the Bentley Continental and Lincoln Continental coexist? Was there an agreement between Ford and whomever owned Bentley at the time?


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## mhjett (Oct 16, 2000)

Dr. Woo said:


> I don't think this deserves its own thread, so here it is:
> 
> *Pickup Naming Conventions De-Mystified*
> (from Autoblog, via GMC)
> ...


 Interesting. The 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton, 1 ton, etc. thing has always confused me. Now I see that it's always confused me because it makes no sense.


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## FissionMailed (May 26, 2006)

adrew said:


> You can push start old PowerGlides.


 Well, yeah, but 99.999% of the time, the answer is gonna be no. There's always gonna be an exception. 



VDub2625 said:


> How did the Bentley Continental and Lincoln Continental coexist? Was there an agreement between Ford and whomever owned Bentley at the time?


 Bentley started making their Continental only three or four years after the Lincoln came out. I just don't think either manufacturer cared- the cars aren't even in the same market, really. It actually isn't the first time this has happened- Plymouth has made a Suburban, too.


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## Dr. Woo (Feb 28, 2003)

VDub2625 said:


> That seems pretty pointless.





mhjett said:


> Interesting. The 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton, 1 ton, etc. thing has always confused me. Now I see that it's always confused me because it makes no sense.


 Eeeeexactly.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

FissionMailed said:


> Bentley started making their Continental only three or four years after the Lincoln came out. I just don't think either manufacturer cared- the cars aren't even in the same market, really. It actually isn't the first time this has happened- Plymouth has made a Suburban, too.


 
Hmm... timing isn't quite like that it seems. Lincoln had it first, in 1939, then dropped it in 1948. Bentley came out in 1952 (perhaps the US was different), then Lincoln returned it to service in 1956. Bentley didn't apply the name strictly to a car model until 1984 (before that, as a high end trim of whatever they were making at the time). Lincoln was similar, though the first models were based on heavily modified Zephyrs, the second gen (in 1956) was it's own model and brand. After that it's wishy washy. This is going off Wikipedia so feel free to correct me. 

I suppose, perhaps it was the non-litigious times that made the difference. They seem to be in a similar market, high performance luxury GT.


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## Snake Hips (Apr 16, 2012)

ravera said:


> That's what he's talking about. A few of the carbureted blower cars have faux throttle plates on the top of the engine. To answer his question, no I do not believe they serve any function aside from looking cool. They serve a purpose on the big mechanically injected cars, but the throttling on the carb cars is left to the TV's in the carbs.


 Why on cars is the carburetor after ("downstream of") the supercharger?


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

Snake Hips said:


> Why on cars is the carburetor after ("downstream of") the supercharger?


 To which are you referring? I've never seen a positive displacement style setup running blow through carbs. There are generally benefits and drawbacks of each, but draw through is usually run on a positive displacement supercharger and doesn't really require much carb modification over a re-jet since it's still seeing atmospheric pressure. The issue with draw through setups is that they can only live so far away from the intake valve since keeping fuel well atomized and distributed throughout the intake is fighting a losing battle. Also IMO it's a poor decision to run a draw through and an intercooler. You've basically created a phenomenal combustion chamber for if (when) the engine spits back through the intake valve. Blow through carbs are most often run on centrifugal superchargers and intercooled turbo setups (though the VW air cooled turbo guys LOVE draw through carbs). The benefit to a blow through setup is that you can pressurize and intercool the charge before you add fuel and you have a much shorter length of 'wet' intake. The downside is that you cant just run any ol' carb. The carb needs to be modified and setup for blow through forced induction. As far as a blow-through roots setup, the ENG-Tips forum seems to agree that there is increased pumping losses at part load and fuel consumption issues. IANAE so I wouldn't be able to detail out what exactly would cause those pumping losses, though I do believe Corky Bell thought a blow through roots could increase the polytropic portion of putting fuel in the intake tract i.e. it will cool off the pressurized charge more.


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## SpecificationR (Jun 4, 2009)

You guys all have those die-cast car toys that have that go forward after you pull them backwards, right? 

I was playing with one at my office desk and wondered if it could upscaled and re-engineered to work on full size cars, like a hybrid system?


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

SpecificationR said:


> You guys all have those die-cast car toys that have that go forward after you pull them backwards, right?
> 
> I was playing with one at my office desk and wondered if it could upscaled and re-engineered to work on full size cars, like a hybrid system?


 Thats basically what regenerative braking does. Takes energy lost while braking and puts it back into the battery. 

If you mean like a means of storing energy via spring, well not really. It requires more energy to put in, than you would get out.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

SirSpectre said:


> Thats basically what regenerative braking does. Takes energy lost while braking and puts it back into the battery.
> 
> If you mean like a means of storing energy via spring, well not really. It requires more energy to put in, than you would get out.


 There are hydraulic hybrids which is sort of similar to what he is asking about. You mostly see them in buses and delivery trucks and vehicles with enough room underneath for some bulky/heavy equipment. 



How Stuff Work said:


> Hydraulic hybrids use three main components to power a vehicle at slow speeds and to augment the gasoline engine. Fluid is stored in a low-pressure reservoir. A pump moves the fluid from the reservoir to a high-pressure accumulator. The accumulator holds not only the fluid brought over by the pump, but also pressurized nitrogen gas.
> 
> These three components work together, but to get things started, they need energy. Like gas/electric hybrids, that energy is gathered through regenerative braking. Kinetic energy from the brakes powers the pump. As the vehicle slows, the pump is activated, and moves fluid from the reservoir to the accumulator. As pressure in the accumulator builds, it acts like a fully charged battery in a gas/electric hybrid, ready to power the electric motor.
> 
> But here's where hydraulic hybrids differ even more from gas/electric hybrids: Instead of sending power to the electric motor, which then sends it to the driveshaft (the part of the car which sets the wheels in motion), the accumulator sends its energy (in the form of nitrogen gas) directly to the driveshaft. As that happens, the vehicle accelerates, and the pump moves the fluid back to the reservoir, ready to charge the accumulator again.


 More info: 
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/hydraulic-hybrid2.htm


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## d_98se (Jun 19, 2007)

The Mustang is transitioning to an IRS. Why are people against this? Last i checked, newer 'merican muscle rides on an independent rear. Will the driving dynamics change for the better? Is this what people are scared of?


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

I think most of the hate against IRS is the amount of power that actually gets to the ground through a wimpy rear end, where as with most solid rear ends, you get a much higher % of hurspar to the ground. 

Depends on application though.


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## Dr. Woo (Feb 28, 2003)

efrie said:


> where as with most solid rear ends, you get a much higher % of *hurspar* to the ground.


 :laugh: :thumbup:


----------



## mookieblaylock (Sep 25, 2005)

*mix and match brake pad compounds?*

i put ebc greenstuff on the front wheels of the ball and chain's gti and the rear has newish oem, the test drive seemed fine. Then i read the disclaimer about you should have the same compound all the way around. Should i bite the bullet and kick down the $60 for some ebc rear pads?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Nah.


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## CSFiend (Jan 14, 2007)

mookieblaylock said:


> i put ebc greenstuff on the front wheels of the ball and chain's gti and the rear has newish oem, the test drive seemed fine. Then i read the disclaimer about you should have the same compound all the way around. Should i bite the bullet and kick down the $60 for some ebc rear pads?


 If she's tracking it on a regular basis and driving it at 99%, 99% of the time, then sure, maybe. 

For a daily driver? No way.


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

mookieblaylock said:


> i put ebc greenstuff on the front wheels of the ball and chain's gti and the rear has newish oem, the test drive seemed fine. Then i read the disclaimer about you should have the same compound all the way around. Should i bite the bullet and kick down the $60 for some ebc rear pads?


 The Greenstuff pads are not super aggressive, so it shouldn't throw out the bias by any noticable amount. I wouldn't bother until the rears are due to be replaced. 

:thumbup::beer:


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

Why does the AC go from cold to warm when I drive aggressively or use WOT? It's not just this car, several cars I've owned have done this. Heat soak? Some sort of WOT cut out for the compressor? Why? Annoying!


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

Most cars have the compressor shut off a grand or so before redline (some more some less), or when you open the car up to WOT. It's done to reduce parasitic drag on the engine as well as keeping the compressor for overspeeding.


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

Why does my F150 squeak when I go backwards? All new brakes, everything is good to go.


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

Probably because one of the caliper bolts is seized. This is what happened to me. The squeak would only happen when backing up, then when only turning left and backing up, then would start happening all the time.


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## spitfire1 (Apr 28, 2008)

most cars turn off the ac at wot, was told from a vw instructor its to free up hp and reduce drag on the engine


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## spitfire1 (Apr 28, 2008)

71DubBugBug said:


> question regarding intake temperature and octane
> 
> i was told on another forum that decreasing the engine bay temp, leading to lower intake temps gives you a theoretical octane boost
> 
> can anyone confirm/ deny, or explain?


 engine bay temp has nothing to do with engine internal temp. plus temp has nothing to do with octane. lower intake air temp will give you more hp because the air is denser than hot air.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

efrie said:


> Why does my F150 squeak when I go backwards? All new brakes, everything is good to go.


 where's the noise coming from?

how old is the truck?

when was the last brake job?

what shape are the ball joints and bushings in?


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

Wow, didn't think anyone would respond. 

Ball joints and other bushings are in okay shape for the age of the truck, it's a 1996 with 160,000 miles on it, 4x4. 

I just replaced the pads on the front, the caliper bolts seemed fine, as in, no pad was worn worse than the others. Took off the drums to change the shoes and they still had tons of pad left, so I just tightened out the rear brakes. 

I'm kind of thinking it's something in the rear, probably the drums, it's not anything major enough for me to really care about. It's a 16 year old vehicle, if it doesn't make noises it means it's not going down the road. :laugh:


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## Snake Hips (Apr 16, 2012)

ravera said:


> To which are you referring? I've never seen a positive displacement style setup running blow through carbs. There are generally benefits and drawbacks of each, but draw through is usually run on a positive displacement supercharger and doesn't really require much carb modification over a re-jet since it's still seeing atmospheric pressure. The issue with draw through setups is that they can only live so far away from the intake valve since keeping fuel well atomized and distributed throughout the intake is fighting a losing battle. Also IMO it's a poor decision to run a draw through and an intercooler. You've basically created a phenomenal combustion chamber for if (when) the engine spits back through the intake valve. Blow through carbs are most often run on centrifugal superchargers and intercooled turbo setups (though the VW air cooled turbo guys LOVE draw through carbs). The benefit to a blow through setup is that you can pressurize and intercool the charge before you add fuel and you have a much shorter length of 'wet' intake. The downside is that you cant just run any ol' carb. The carb needs to be modified and setup for blow through forced induction. As far as a blow-through roots setup, the ENG-Tips forum seems to agree that there is increased pumping losses at part load and fuel consumption issues. IANAE so I wouldn't be able to detail out what exactly would cause those pumping losses, though I do believe Corky Bell thought a blow through roots could increase the polytropic portion of putting fuel in the intake tract i.e. it will cool off the pressurized charge more.


I wasn't referring to either because I wasn't really aware both types of induction existed in the car world. I work on airplanes, and airplanes are simple, much (MUCH) simpler than cars; all of my car knowledge basically comes from here. Airplanes: intake > carburetor > supercharger > cylinder. OR: intake > turbocharger > carburetor > cylinder. So I wondered why in cars the supercharger came before ("upstream of") the carburetor. I wasn't aware both setups were used in cars. So thanks for all the info, it was really pretty enlightening!


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## Mayerz (Mar 15, 2004)

I just did a 2200km trip from montreal QC to moncton NB and back so i had a long time to think and wonder stuff. 

If i have half a tank of 91 octane gas, and put another half a tank of 94 octane gas, does it become 92.5 octane?


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

Mayerz said:


> I just did a 2200km trip from montreal QC to moncton NB and back so i had a long time to think and wonder stuff.
> 
> If i have half a tank of 91 octane gas, and put another half a tank of 94 octane gas, does it become 92.5 octane?


 Yes... infact, 91 octane gas from the pump is just 89 and 93 mixed together. They only have two storage tanks. Regular, and premium.


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## helement2003 (Aug 3, 2004)

Mayerz said:


> I just did a 2200km trip from montreal QC to moncton NB and back so i had a long time to think and wonder stuff.
> 
> If i have half a tank of 91 octane gas, and put another half a tank of 94 octane gas, does it become 92.5 octane?


 Essentially, yes. 

People do this frequently to get higher octane. Mix some 100 with 91 to get a good 93-94 in the tank, etc. 

There are even mixed octane calculators out there: 
http://www.wallaceracing.com/octane-mix-calc.php


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## Mayerz (Mar 15, 2004)

Cool thanks! :beer:


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## Tourenwagen (Dec 28, 2002)

Assuming a 350 mile per week commute - would it be cheaper to own/run a diesel car than it would a petrol car? For purposes of this question I'm looking at a used '09/'10 Jetta.


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## envy. (Jul 27, 2009)

What are those red things behind the grille on all the modified turbo cars I see?


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Hella SuperTone horns


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Tourenwagen said:


> Assuming a 350 mile per week commute - would it be cheaper to own/run a diesel car than it would a petrol car? For purposes of this question I'm looking at a used '09/'10 Jetta.


 Looks like most TDIs average around 40 MPG on Fuelly. 

TDI: 18,500 miles/year ÷ 40 MPG = 462 gallons/year 
Gas: 18,500 miles/year ÷ 30 MPG = 616 gallons/year 

So, at $3.70/gallon, the TDI will save you $570 a year. Is that worth it to move to different car? Keep in mind when buying used that you will not get complimentary service and TDIs have pricier oil changes and a timing belt you'll have to do every 5 years, eating up some of the fuel savings. 

If you go from a 30 MPG car to a 50 MPG Prius, you will save $900± a year.


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## envy. (Jul 27, 2009)

ah HA! I always figured it had something to do with turbo setups since I only ever saw them on STI/WRX/MS3/EVO/etc cars. 

surely you can see now why I was "always afraid to ask"


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

Tourenwagen said:


> Assuming a 350 mile per week commute - would it be cheaper to own/run a diesel car than it would a petrol car? For purposes of this question I'm looking at a used '09/'10 Jetta.


 Not sure about used, but for a new Jetta, the ROI (return on investment) is at about 75,000 miles. That means you don't even make up the extra cost for 75,000 miles...then you start seeing savings. If you provide the price of the car you are looking at and the price of an equivalent car with a non-diesel engine, we can calculate the ROI.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

StormChaser said:


> Not sure about used, but for a new Jetta, the ROI (return on investment) is at about 75,000 miles.


 Does this include increased worth at trade-in time? If the car is worth $1,000 more than an equivalent gasser at $75,000 miles, how does that effect the calcultations? 

I don't know their KBB numbers used and haven't run the numbers, I'm just playing devil's advocate. :beer:


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## FissionMailed (May 26, 2006)

Guessing the answer is no on this, but worth asking: 

The US spec Honda CRZ comes with two worthless and bizarre seat-shaped storage bins behind the front seats. 

The JDM Tyte edition comes with two equally worthless actual seats and seatbelts. 

What if somebody were to acquire SuperHella JDM Extreme OEM+ backseats from a JDM HellaTight CRZ and throw them into a US spec CRZ? Legal?


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

Air and water do mix said:


> Does this include increased worth at trade-in time? If the car is worth $1,000 more than an equivalent gasser at $75,000 miles, how does that effect the calcultations?
> 
> I don't know their KBB numbers used and haven't run the numbers, I'm just playing devil's advocate. :beer:


 No, it didn't include value differences at trade in because value for a used car varies way to much to be consistant.


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## Tourenwagen (Dec 28, 2002)

adrew said:


> Looks like most TDIs average around 40 MPG on Fuelly.
> 
> TDI: 18,500 miles/year ÷ 40 MPG = 462 gallons/year
> Gas: 18,500 miles/year ÷ 30 MPG = 616 gallons/year
> ...


 Very comprehensive answer, thank-you. The TDI still makes for an attractive commuter option since I am looking to pick something up used as an additional vehicle versus trading what I have. :thumbup:


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## Tourenwagen (Dec 28, 2002)

StormChaser said:


> Not sure about used, but for a new Jetta, the ROI (return on investment) is at about 75,000 miles. That means you don't even make up the extra cost for 75,000 miles...then you start seeing savings. If you provide the price of the car you are looking at and the price of an equivalent car with a non-diesel engine, we can calculate the ROI.


 Appreciate the offer but this is early research. Assuming I would be somewhere between $15k and $20k though for both vehicles depending on mileage, condition etc.


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## WD-40 (Oct 9, 2005)

Tourenwagen said:


> Very comprehensive answer, thank-you. The TDI still makes for an attractive commuter option since I am looking to pick something up used as an additional vehicle versus trading what I have. :thumbup:


 It's not all about economy and ROI... For a commute vehicle, *range* and the associated convenience are *huge* benefits for the TDI. :thumbup: 


So we take adrew's numbers: 


adrew said:


> TDI: 18,500 miles/year ÷ 40 MPG = 462 gallons/year
> Gas: 18,500 miles/year ÷ 30 MPG = 616 gallons/year


and divide those by the 14.5 gallon gas tank size, and you're looking at a minimum of 32 fillups on diesel, and 43 on gas, assuming you run the tank 100% empty (which you wouldn't do). That's an extra 11 times that you don't have to stop at the gas station. :thumbup: :thumbup: 


Looking at it from a different angle, if the weekly commute is 350 miles, that's *more* than the gas Jetta's 326 mile range for a full tank (you'll be filling up more often than once a week)... whereas it's *comfortably less* than the TDI's 431 mile single-tank range. So with the TDI, you could have a weekly routine (_"Get gas on the way home from work every Thursday"_), with 80 miles of wiggle room, whereas the gas Jetta would leave you filling up at odd times because you _had to_ or you would run out of gas. :thumbdown:


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## SoTxBill (Jan 14, 2001)

drecian said:


> The Greenstuff pads are not super aggressive, so it shouldn't throw out the bias by any noticable amount. I wouldn't bother until the rears are due to be replaced.
> 
> :thumbup::beer:


 Do you get along with your better half?


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## FreshBaked 24 7 (Sep 15, 2006)

If my car has TPMS and I put rims on it that don't have TPMS sensors, my cluster will read that "tire pressure low" 

Is there anyway to fix that without having to rebuy wheels that have sensors?


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## One_Off_Volk (Nov 30, 2011)

Could I put an intercooler behind the grill to keep the stock front bumper instead of getting an aftermarket Corrado bumper? Is it possible to do that so it mounts behind or in front of the radiator? 
Stupid question :/


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## DarkNeo (Jun 19, 2004)

FreshBaked 24 7 said:


> If my car has TPMS and I put rims on it that don't have TPMS sensors, my cluster will read that "tire pressure low"
> 
> Is there anyway to fix that without having to rebuy wheels that have sensors?


 Disable TPMS via VCDS


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

StayFatlaceMK3 said:


> Could I put an intercooler behind the grill to keep the stock front bumper instead of getting an aftermarket Corrado bumper? Is it possible to do that so it mounts behind or in front of the radiator?
> Stupid question :/


 This isn't a turbo-building thread, but I'll play: 
If you mount it in front of the radiator, you're compromising the radiators cooling capabilities, if you mount it behind, the IC is limited now, as well. This is why FMIC's are typically mounted low in the bumper. Part of building a turbo car is solving fitment issues like this. Get creative, and go read other build threads for inspiration.


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## ohsnappe2 (May 20, 2008)

why not wrap the whole car in clear bra? 
why not powdercoat the metal pieces instead of paint?


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

FreshBaked 24 7 said:


> 2. If my car has TPMS and I put rims on it that don't have TPMS sensors, my cluster will read that "tire pressure low"
> 
> 2. Is there anyway to fix that without having to rebuy wheels that have sensors?


 1. Yes 
2. No, not unless you find a way to totally disable the system. Maybe find/pull the fuse? But it may be on the circuit for other things. Or see if the OBDC system in the car can turn it off.


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

ohsnappe2 said:


> why not wrap the whole car in clear bra?
> why not powdercoat the metal pieces instead of paint?


 The answer is the same for both...cost.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

ohsnappe2 said:


> why not wrap the whole car in clear bra?
> why not powdercoat the metal pieces instead of paint?


 Bra: You could. In fact, many do wrap their entire cars in vinyl. But as mentioned, it ain't cheap. 

Powdercoat: Some pieces are powdercoated from the factory (lots of suspension parts). Body panels are not because the finishes are not as lustrous as paint, it's heavier, and repairs are difficult, because you can't just "spot coat" and blend like you can with paint. You'd have to strip the whole panel and go through the whole process again.


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

StayFatlaceMK3 said:


> Could I put an intercooler behind the grill to keep the stock front bumper instead of getting an aftermarket Corrado bumper? Is it possible to do that so it mounts behind or in front of the radiator?
> Stupid question :/


 Lots of cars and trucks package the intercooler in front of the radiator (some even put the AC condenser in front of both.) The airflow through the intercooler will still be enough to cool the radiator effectively. The air in the intercooler will be much cooler than the coolant. I have this setup pictured in my XR4Ti with electric puller fans behind the radiator. I usually see air intake temps


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## SMG (May 29, 2002)

ohsnappe2 said:


> why not wrap the whole car in clear bra?
> why not powdercoat the metal pieces instead of paint?


 I saw a Corvette that was wrapped entirely with a clear bra and it didn't look that great. The film is clear, but it's not as smooth or reflective as paint. If you get a bad installer, you can also run into other issues like stretching and not having it adhere properly to complex surfaces. It's one thing when you're talking about a relatively-small area like the front of a car where the drawbacks may still be worth the piece of mind that it offers. It's another thing when you're talking about covering large body panels where there really may not be much benefit. 

As far as powdercoat vs. paint, I would assume cost would be the reason.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

StayFatlaceMK3 said:


> Could I put an intercooler behind the grill to keep the stock front bumper instead of getting an aftermarket Corrado bumper? Is it possible to do that so it mounts behind or in front of the radiator?
> Stupid question :/


 That's how the factory Golf G60s are without AC. There's plenty of room without the AC compressor, to mount the IC in front. You could even locate factory IC and piping from one of those models and make it fit the Corrado. I wouldn't be suprised if the factory Corrado G60 without AC in Europe has this same setup. 



MrMook said:


> This isn't a turbo-building thread, but I'll play:
> If you mount it in front of the radiator, you're compromising the radiators cooling capabilities, if you mount it behind, the IC is limited now, as well. This is why FMIC's are typically mounted low in the bumper. Part of building a turbo car is solving fitment issues like this. Get creative, and go read other build threads for inspiration.


 Never heard of an IC behind the radiator, that would heat it up. But as I said, VW themselves did factory mount the IC in front of the radiator. 



FreshBaked 24 7 said:


> If my car has TPMS and I put rims on it that don't have TPMS sensors, my cluster will read that "tire pressure low"
> 
> Is there anyway to fix that without having to rebuy wheels that have sensors?


 The wheels don't have the sensors, they are part of the valve stems. New sensor/valve stems and you're good to go.


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## Diamond Dave (Mar 24, 2001)

FissionMailed said:


> What if somebody were to acquire SuperHella JDM Extreme OEM+ backseats from a JDM HellaTight CRZ and throw them into a US spec CRZ? Legal?


 Legal? based on what context? 

It's possible, but depends on how universal the body is. Most of the mounting points are most likely there, but would the US car have the extra reinforced seat belt mounting points? I'm guessing not, but Japanese cars are wonderfully consistent from market to market.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Legal, probably not (is the CRZ listed as a 2 seater? I'm not familair). But I don't think anyone would pop you, even in an accident, as long as they were properly installed the correct way and anyone in an accident would be safe.


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## gtivr4 (Sep 22, 2000)

How much and what damage would I do to my car (BMW M3, automatic by doing a burnout (or two or three...)? Other than obviously destroying tires. 

AND... How do I do it (yes, I am 33 and have never done a burnout)?


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## audi9k (Sep 5, 2004)

for daily driven cars with RWD, what are the true pros and cons with a staggered wheel and tire set up? i notice some people do it mainly for looks, but are you asking for trouble, or are you actually at some kind of advantage?


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## gtivr4 (Sep 22, 2000)

Basically it's a way to affect balance. Less tire in the front equals higher chance of understeer which is generally safer. Cars with big power generally need big rear tires to handle it, but big front tires aren't necessarily an advantage. So the posers are looking to imitate high power cars.


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## 20aeman (Jun 8, 2006)

audi9k said:


> for daily driven cars with RWD, what are the true pros and cons with a staggered wheel and tire set up? i notice some people do it mainly for looks, but are you asking for trouble, or are you actually at some kind of advantage?


 Pro: 
More rear traction 
More understeer 

Con: 
Can't rotate tires 
More understeer 
More expensive rear tires


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## 20aeman (Jun 8, 2006)

gtivr4 said:


> How much and what damage would I do to my car (BMW M3, automatic by doing a burnout (or two or three...)? Other than obviously destroying tires.
> 
> AND... How do I do it (yes, I am 33 and have never done a burnout)?


 There is always the potential to break stuff when doing burnouts. 

Hold the brake, get on the gas hard. Once you get decent amounts of wheelspin...let go of brake.


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

for those of you who send in oil samples for analysis, what other options are there other than blackstone? 

i know amsoil does, and polaris, but any others?


----------



## CostcoPizza (Jan 20, 2008)

*Cylinders and AC*

Here's something I've been wondering for a while. I've noticed that when you turn on the AC, 4cyl cars are affected more, i.e. their performance suffers more than when turning on the AC in larger motors.

Is the 'drag' of reduced performance from AC determined by:
1. The size of the motor 
2. The hp
3. The tq
4. None/all of these


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## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

mac dre said:


> Here's something I've been wondering for a while. I've noticed that when you turn on the AC, 4cyl cars are affected more, i.e. their performance suffers more than when turning on the AC in larger motors.
> 
> Is the 'drag' of reduced performance from AC determined by:
> 1. The size of the motor
> ...


hp consumed by the air conditioning system. 

i suspect the issue is that a 4 cyclnder engine presumably at about 1,000 rpm produces less power, because its smaller and lighter compared to a similar 1,000 rpm idle for a larger engine. thus the power the AC uses is a higher percentage of the idle hp. 

but two engines, regardless of the number of pistons, with the same power output at any given RPM, will feel the same.


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

gtivr4 said:


> How much and what damage would I do to my car (BMW M3, automatic by doing a burnout (or two or three...)? Other than obviously destroying tires.
> 
> AND... How do I do it (yes, I am 33 and have never done a burnout)?


Just Like stated above except:

Disable the Traction Control fully (should be possible on your vehicle), and the most likely damage is the rear subframe mounts tearing loose from the chassis, not a burnout specific problem but common enough on BMW 3s


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

gambit420s said:


> Your Vehicle is not an automatic, It is a SMG, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrohydraulic_manual_transmission


:facepalm:It is an automatic...just with clutches rather than a torque converter. If it can shift on it's own without you selecting the gear, it's an automatic.


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

StormChaser said:


> :facepalm:It is an automatic...just with clutches rather than a torque converter. If it can shift on it's own without you selecting the gear, it's an automatic.


actually i misread his is an automatic torque converter unless it is the 97 only SMG


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

I have one. I know how diesels work n stuff, but never could figure out why they have a hard time reving too high, like above 5k.

So I guess my question is: why can't diesel engines rev to say......7500 RPM?


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## goin440 (Nov 1, 2011)

SirSpectre said:


> So I guess my question is: why can't diesel engines rev to say......7500 RPM?


I know of some pullers out there that can.... and they make ~ 3000hp.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

SirSpectre said:


> I have one. I know how diesels work n stuff, but never could figure out why they have a hard time reving too high, like above 5k.
> 
> So I guess my question is: why can't diesel engines rev to say......7500 RPM?


I think it has something to do with the rate at which the fuel burns. in other words, the length of Tim he the ignition cycle takes for a complete burn.


I've often wondered the same thing, and that's the best I could conjure up. I'm also interested in hearing a correct answer to this question.


----------



## vasillalov (Nov 5, 2003)

TwoLitreVW said:


> I think it has something to do with the rate at which the fuel burns. in other words, the length of Tim he the ignition cycle takes for a complete burn.
> 
> 
> I've often wondered the same thing, and that's the best I could conjure up. I'm also interested in hearing a correct answer to this question.


Correct. Diesel fuel burns a lot slower compared to gasolene. So, while the engine is rotating, you have limited amount of time to perform an efficient burn. As a matter of fact, it is quite common to see multi-stage injection in diesels (and now some gassers as well) where the fuel is injected in multiple stages while the actual combustion event is still happening.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

i see.

and i assume the ones with things like propane injection would be to help speed the burn process up?


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## DISI 2.3T (Apr 22, 2004)

Seriously?


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## gtivr4 (Sep 22, 2000)

DISI 2.3T said:


> Seriously?


Sometimes. Most NA miatas have dead shocks at around 30k miles!


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

I feel that is certainly the case for some cars. Uneven rear tire wear started on my car around the 60-65k mark and it was because the rear spring/strut started to sag. I wonder if rheomagnetic shocks (http://144.206.159.178/ft/608/10311/198820.pdf) last longer compared to conventional pneumatic dashpots.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

It's a good guide for people who have no idea how a bad shock feels. Kinda like cats, EGRs, and O2 sensors were 60k maintenance items when they first came out.


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## 484 (Feb 10, 2011)

Assle said:


> I feel that is certainly the case for some cars. Uneven rear tire wear started on my car around the 60-65k mark and it was because the rear spring/strut started to sag. I wonder if rheomagnetic shocks (http://144.206.159.178/ft/608/10311/198820.pdf) last longer compared to conventional pneumatic dashpots.


So, related question, what does tire wear from worn shocks/struts look like?


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

DISI 2.3T said:


> Seriously?


I have never had any of my Japanese cars need shocks before 150k miles, but the shocks on our 2007 Sonata were totally shot by 50k miles. When I sold it to CarMax at 57k miles it was bouncing and rebounding all over the place -- hit a mid-corner bump = BOUNCE, Bounce, bounce. If I floored it to merge, the nose of the car would point upward and the rear would squat. If I braked hard it would nosedive like crazy, and any moderate cornering had leaning over and feeling out of control.

It also liked to bottom out and scrape on minor dips and things like that. If you look closely at previous generation Sonatas you will notice that almost every one of them has a scraped-up and low-hanging plastic engine under-tray from countless scrapes due to the worn-out shocks. Ours got to the point where we would see a small dip in the road and then one of us would make a grindy noise in anticipation of the scrape.

Unacceptable.


----------



## Gus Polinski (Jul 20, 2001)

20aeman said:


> Pro:
> More rear traction
> More understeer
> 
> ...


Our SRX has a staggered setup. The consensus on the Caddy boards is that's for looks. It's not mandatory though, a lot owners just put the larger rear size on all four corners.


----------



## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

484 said:


> So, related question, what does tire wear from worn shocks/struts look like?


----------



## infraspinatus (May 14, 2010)

My friend has a QX56 with one of those automatic opening/closing tailgates. Yesterday I closed his tailgate manually, and he yelled at me saying that I shouldn't do that (i.e. I should let it close automatically on its own), because it's bad for the system. Is there any truth to that?


----------



## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

I guess that would depend on how the tailgate is attached to the mechanism. If it senses that there is a load exerted on it for it to close and the automated control is deactivated, then there is no harm. Otherwise, I could see that you manually closing it puts stress on the automated parts and that would wear them out quicker.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I'm sure the engineers thought ahead for that  I know with my sister's Sienna if you try to close it manually it takes over for you. There are sensors for the position, of course.


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

484 said:


> So, related question, what does tire wear from worn shocks/struts look like?


----------



## 484 (Feb 10, 2011)

What about this? (MSPaint Skillz)










Every other tread block is worn, around the inside of the tire only, on all four tires on a recently-purchased FWD car. The rear is more pronounced.

Not sure if tires have been rotated by the P.O. to achieve this identical wear or if both axles have the same exact problem. Doesn't seem to have changed, for better or worse, in the 4,000 miles I've put on the car so far.

Shocks seem fine. Front alignment was toed-out with a bad tire rod on one side, fixed that immediately. Would long-term toe-out (3/32"!) cause the wear above?


----------



## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

484 said:


> What about this? (MSPaint Skillz)
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Toe out would cause that kind of wear on the inside of the tire. Think of the tire as constantly rubbing off tread as it rolled.


----------



## DISI 2.3T (Apr 22, 2004)

This is the best thread here IMO. Why is that?


----------



## Egz (May 30, 2002)

drecian said:


> Toe out would cause that kind of wear on the inside of the tire. Think of the tire as constantly rubbing off tread as it rolled.


Had this on my car. Rear toe really was out of alignment.


----------



## 484 (Feb 10, 2011)

Well then I'll assume the source of the problem has been fixed and see how the new winter tires wear when installed. Thanks guys.

I guess moving a tire with such wear to a properly-aligned axle will not magically even it out?


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

DISI 2.3T said:


> This is the best thread here IMO. Why is that?


It's turned into a bit of a self-regulated ceasefire zone, where normal insults and troll-ery are frowned upon. It's a nice change of pace where we actually teach and learn from each other. 

eace:


----------



## willisan (Jan 24, 2012)

*taps mic nervously*

Ok, stupid question: How many catalytic converters does the b6 1.8t engine have?

Looking at upgrading exhaust/dp and failed at the searching. 

Preciate it


----------



## 1.8Tquattro (Aug 13, 2006)

1

If you open the hood and look on the left side of the engine it bolts right up to the turbo.


----------



## mujjuman (Jul 29, 2004)

This should be its own forum IMO


----------



## micho rizzo (Aug 23, 2012)

*need help :/*

yo, been thinking of doing **** to my mkv in the future when i had money and whatnot but recently ive been forced to get a new intake anyone know a good cold air intake or short ram intake at a good price thatl work well on a 2006 jetta 2.5?


----------



## micho rizzo (Aug 23, 2012)

*budget*

from around 150 to 200 bucks sorry for the double post :beer:


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Go ask the MkV forum members. This is for general car tech, not which hot air system would make your car the slowest.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

What kinds of mods might _increase_ MPG? I know chip tuning often does (as you're getting more power per drop of gas), but how about exhaust mods? More/less restrictive? Can cams help MPG or is it always bad? Anything else?


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

VDub2625 said:


> What kinds of mods might _increase_ MPG? I know chip tuning often does (as you're getting more power per drop of gas), but how about exhaust mods? More/less restrictive? Can cams help MPG or is it always bad? Anything else?


provided that driving style stays the same, a lot of mods actually increase mpg.

trouble is, when we have the ability to make more power, we use it, thereby burning more fuel.

the best performance mods for mpg are those that optimize the fuel and ignition system for more complete and accurate burns.

cams can help mpg, but only if the ignition and fuel maps are adjusted to take advantage of that specific combination of lift/duration.

a more free-flowing exhaust can also help mpgs, provided you're not always mashing the loud pedal.


some of the best ways to increase mpgs are lean burn maps, low rolling resistance tires (or keeping the ones you got properly inflated), minimizing parasitic drag on the engine, and reducing as much drag as possible.

the more slippery the car, the easier it'll go through the air. the less stuff running off of the engine, the less load it operates under.

there's tons of hypermiling forums out there; search for the term and you'll be surprised what you learn.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Well, my situation is, I'm looking into an exhaust system now, and I was going to go large-bore (to save room for future engine upgrades). I know it'll kill torque, but I'm hoping the MPG doesn't become dismal in the process. Plus I've always been curious about this sort of thing. I'd rather increase both hp and mpg, at the expense of hp if needed.


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

VDub2625 said:


> I know it'll kill torque, but I'm hoping the MPG doesn't become dismal in the process. Plus I've always been curious about this sort of thing. I'd rather increase both hp and mpg, at the expense of hp if needed.


It won't kill torque... it'll just move it further up. 

Anything that involves requiring you to spin the engine faster to get the same power is going to hurt fuel economy.
But on the flip side, the car will probably be more efficient while cruising.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Awesome, exactly what I wanted to know! Thanks


----------



## mk_ultra (Jan 31, 2009)

I'm curious to know what sort of handling characteristics will a car experience, personal example Corrado slc, if the front suspension is raised higher than the rear using coilovers. Any serious balance issues? Thanks in advance :beer:


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

The height of the suspension as a static measure does affect handling. For example, the well-known affects of MacPhearson strut suspension when the control arms are set parallel to the road. Same with the rear beam style suspension, if the beam is parallel, the toe and camber adjustments through the range of motion of the wheel (while minor), are affected (they rotate around a "zero point" rather than just increasing or decreasing). As for the affect that two different heights will have on each other, I don't think it'll matter, especially with balance. The weight is not transferred significantly from one end to the other by a simple few degrees of height difference.


----------



## mk_ultra (Jan 31, 2009)

VDub2625 said:


> The height of the suspension as a static measure does affect handling. For example, the well-known affects of MacPhearson strut suspension when the control arms are set parallel to the road. Same with the rear beam style suspension, if the beam is parallel, the toe and camber adjustments through the range of motion of the wheel (while monor), are affected (they rotate around a "zero point" rather than just increasing or decreasing). As for the affect that two different heights will have on each other, I don't think it'll matter, especially with balance. The weight is not transderred significantly from one end to the other by a simple few degrees of height difference.


Thanks for the explanation :beer:


----------



## Kumamon (Jun 13, 2012)

I'm looking at buying some new wheels for my car, sized 17x7. I currently have 17x7.5 wheels with a 215/40/R17 tire. I'm hoping that I can get away with re-using my current tires to save me a couple hundred bucks, but don't know if the size difference between wheels and tires will be too much?

Could I probably run my current tires and be fine with the new wheels?


----------



## 20aeman (Jun 8, 2006)

Crimping Is Easy said:


> I'm looking at buying some new wheels for my car, sized 17x7. I currently have 17x7.5 wheels with a 215/40/R17 tire. I'm hoping that I can get away with re-using my current tires to save me a couple hundred bucks, but don't know if the size difference between wheels and tires will be too much?
> 
> Could I probably run my current tires and be fine with the new wheels?


Yes, you'll be fine reusing the same tires. Just like people "stretch" tires to fit wide wheels; you can just as easily do the opposite. 215 is not an extreme case either, it's only slightly wider than the typical 205 tire that is associated with a 7inch wide wheel.

To give you an example, I have 235 tires on a 7.5 wide wheel currently.


----------



## Kumamon (Jun 13, 2012)

20aeman said:


> Yes, you'll be fine reusing the same tires. Just like people "stretch" tires to fit wide wheels; you can just as easily do the opposite. 215 is not an extreme case either, it's only slightly wider than the typical 205 tire that is associated with a 7inch wide wheel.
> 
> To give you an example, I have 235 tires on a 7.5 wide wheel currently.


Thanks man. Appreciate it. :beer:


----------



## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

Crimping Is Easy said:


> Thanks man. Appreciate it. :beer:


And I've got 225s on a 6" wheel. (that was fun with an old-school tire machine) Yeah, you'll be fine.


----------



## gtivr4 (Sep 22, 2000)

What about 205s on an 8.5" wheel? Will they fit OK, or will they be "stretched"?


----------



## DerSpiegel (Jun 20, 2008)

gtivr4 said:


> What about 205s on an 8.5" wheel? Will they fit OK, or will they be "stretched"?


Most definitely stretched. Tire Rack actually has good info on the recommended rim widths for the tires they sell. For example, here is the Bridgestone RE-11 in a 205/45/17. It shows the specs including the recommended rim width of 6.5 to 7.5 inches.

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...R7RE11XL&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes


----------



## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

I'm running 11.50" tires on what I believe is either an 8.5" or 9" wheel on my truck. Meh, it just tends to walk a little at highway speeds. :laugh:


----------



## Giovanni (May 13, 2000)

The 6 cylinder engine in the older ML320s have 12 spark plugs. 
How does that work and why 2 plugs per cylinder?


----------



## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

Ford did the same thing with the older 4 cylinder motors, for instance in the Ranger, and they did the same thing in some of the newer 5.4L engines.

The idea behind it was two sparks would burn the fuel more efficiently, therefore creating more power, and increasing fuel mileage. It was really just a pain in everyone's ass.


----------



## Essex712 (Mar 3, 2010)

Honda hybrids did the same thing. Most of them have 8 spark plugs. Decent idea, just a pain in the ass.. lol


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

that's the basics of it.

it essentially offered more spark in order to get a larger flame front going during the ignition cycle.

a more complete burn equals more complete use of available energy from fuel, which allows for less consumption, which simply means more power using less fuel.

Alfa Romeo also used a similar tech in their Twin Spark engines in both 8v and 16V models. on the 8v they used same sized plugs fired at slightly different times (so the flame front doesn't meet at the center of the piston, which is the weakest part). on the 16v it used a standard plug at the center of the cylinder with a smaller plug off to the side.

you'll also see this type of tech used in airplane engines for various reasons and with different benefits.

brief overview here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dual_ignition


----------



## Dubai Vol (Jan 8, 2002)

The Porsche 917 also had two plugs per cylinder.


----------



## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

Many porsche's had them, but IIRC on the 'hemi' headed porsches, the dome in the piston, even in the turbo porsche's could occlude a portion of the combustion chamber from the flame front. dual plugs there could provide even flame propagation across the combustion area. The point of the majority of new dual plug setups is emissions. 

The dual mag setup on airplanes is a failsafe in case one fails. You get really happy when you have a dual mag setup when one magneto fails 5,000 feet in the air. I know I was.


----------



## Mintyy (Jan 3, 2011)

I've got a track physics question:

I understand the principles of lift-off oversteer, and shall explain them just to make sure I'm on the right page: when your car is turning as well as accelerating, when you lift off the throttle weight is shifted from the front outside to the back outside, causing back weight to push out in oversteer. Correct?

What if you are mid corner and pegging red-line? Would coming off the throttle to shift gears be enough time to cause lift-off oversteer? Would getting right back on WOT after the shift catch redistributed weight that's been put back and out? 

Thanks for the help.


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## Tiny Voices (Apr 25, 2011)

Will driving my car until the gas light comes on before filling up actually drastically shorten the life of my fuel pump?


----------



## DerSpiegel (Jun 20, 2008)

Mintyy said:


> I've got a track physics question:
> 
> I understand the principles of lift-off oversteer, and shall explain them just to make sure I'm on the right page: *when your car is turning as well as accelerating, when you lift off the throttle weight is shifted from the front outside to the back outside, causing back weight to push out in oversteer.* Correct?
> 
> ...


Actually it's the reverse, but you may have just switched it up while typing it out. When accelerating and turning, weight is shifted towards the rear of the car. When you jump out of the throttle, that center of gravity moves forward, loading up the front tires taking weight off of the rears, causing them to lose adhesion and begin the spin. 

As to your second question, it is possible to get lift-off oversteer in that scenario but it's relatively easy to either execute a shift that is quick enough not to fully upset the car....or to moderate throttle input just a tad before shifting that you mitigate any extreme response from the chassis. Think of it as lifting off just slightly, shifting, then rolling back into the gas.


----------



## infraspinatus (May 14, 2010)

Why is 1st gen G35 sedan lighter than the G35 coupe?


----------



## mujjuman (Jul 29, 2004)

Corolla vs. tC

What's the difference? They're both the same exact car just different body right?


----------



## Mintyy (Jan 3, 2011)

DerSpiegel said:


> Actually it's the reverse, but you may have just switched it up while typing it out. When accelerating and turning, weight is shifted towards the rear of the car. When you jump out of the throttle, that center of gravity moves forward, loading up the front tires taking weight off of the rears, causing them to lose adhesion and begin the spin.
> 
> As to your second question, it is possible to get lift-off oversteer in that scenario but it's relatively easy to either execute a shift that is quick enough not to fully upset the car....or to moderate throttle input just a tad before shifting that you mitigate any extreme response from the chassis. Think of it as lifting off just slightly, shifting, then rolling back into the gas.


You're correct in the first part - definitely just mixed things up when typing. 

Thanks for the second part! Fully understood.


----------



## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

mujjuman said:


> Corolla vs. tC
> 
> What's the difference? They're both the same exact car just different body right?


No. Per Wiki: The Scion tC shares its chassis with the Avensis and uses a MacPherson strut front and double wishbone rear suspension. (Our Corolla has a rear twist-beam.)


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## Neezy13 (Jun 1, 2011)

mujjuman said:


> Corolla vs. tC
> 
> What's the difference? They're both the same exact car just different body right?


Well, Corolla is 4 door and tC is a coupe. Also, the new tC shares its motor with the 4 cyl Camry which is 2.5L vs the 1.8L 4 cyl in the Corolla. The XRS trim Corollas have a similar 2.4L motor but its not quite as powerful.


----------



## brian1037 (Mar 6, 2012)

People always refer to BMW's as e46 or some other e## number. What does it all mean?


----------



## Neezy13 (Jun 1, 2011)

brian1037 said:


> People always refer to BMW's as e46 or some other e## number. What does it all mean?


Production code. Car makers use these codes when referring to a particular generation of model. Its easier, especially in a global market, to keep track of models based on production code since the same car may have different names in other markets.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

*FV-QR*

what are the little orange stickers on cars on the highway?


----------



## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

Yes, if you consider the Passat, Jetta, and Golf to all be the same car.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

A.Wilder said:


> what are the little orange stickers on cars on the highway?


Can you elaborate? Is this a regional thing?


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## gtivr4 (Sep 22, 2000)

A.Wilder said:


> what are the little orange stickers on cars on the highway?


Its an indicator that the police have acknowledged its presence and all is OK (I think). In other words a passing police car doesn't need to stop.


----------



## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

DerSpiegel said:


> As to your second question, it is possible to get lift-off oversteer in that scenario but it's relatively easy to either execute a shift that is quick enough not to fully upset the car....or to moderate throttle input just a tad before shifting that you mitigate any extreme response from the chassis. Think of it as lifting off just slightly, shifting, then rolling back into the gas.


Depends. A 2-3 redline shift on the track? The above is true.

A 1-2 redline shift in the middle of a tight autocross turn? You're probably going for a loop. You're accelerating more rapidly at the top of 1st gear. More weight transfer when you lift.


----------



## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

Tiny Voices said:


> Will driving my car until the gas light comes on before filling up actually drastically shorten the life of my fuel pump?


No. You're still pumping the same fuel though the engine. You only kill pump life when you allow the pump to run dry.



infraspinatus said:


> Why is 1st gen G35 sedan lighter than the G35 coupe?


This is not uncommon. The W124 is another great example. The sedan is actually a more structurally rigid design than the coupe so there is more metal added so that you can return the same rigidity of the sedan chassis. This apparently is more than the weight added by the additional stuff required for doors.


----------



## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

A.Wilder said:


> what are the little orange stickers on cars on the highway?





gtivr4 said:


> Its an indicator that the police have acknowledged its presence and all is OK (I think). In other words a passing police car doesn't need to stop.


 ...and, it indicates (by the date written on it) when the police determined it to be abandoned on the side of the road; therefore, when they'll tow it to impound. 
Random car just chilling on the side of the road = safety hazard.


----------



## Snake Hips (Apr 16, 2012)

ravera said:


> The dual mag setup on airplanes is a failsafe in case one fails. You get really happy when you have a dual mag setup when one magneto fails 5,000 feet in the air. I know I was.


Mostly, yes. The "purpose" of dual ignition specifically is better flame-propagation since aircraft piston-engine cylinders are so huge [bore-wise], and the two plug sets are fired by independent magnetos for the safety factor. Did you have two mags or one dual mag? And what happened? I've seen a mag blown straight off the accessory case, and the pilot only noticed when he lost oil pressure and saw oil blowing across his fuselage from under the engine cowling.


----------



## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

Dual single mags. One just decided it was its time. Noticed an RPM drop, was high enough to do a mag check, and then promptly decided it was my time to return to earth.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

StormChaser said:


> Yes, if you consider the Passat, Jetta, and Golf to all be the same car.


How do you mean? PQ46 or whatever it is? it's my understanding that they are, at the core, the same, being stretched and squished versions of each other, unlike previous generations which sharted similar parts but were different chassises.


----------



## 2.0T_Convert (Mar 23, 2009)

If I want to slow down in a DSG car without using the brakes and use S mode to slow down.... am I using engine braking or transmission brakes?

I thought engine braking but had an debate about it today.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

There's no such thing as transmission braking. The transmission connects the engine to a lower gear for more leverage which means more engine braking.

Well, in the case of DSG, in sport mode it connects the gear instead of what torque converters do (and what DSG emulates in normal mode, and a manual's equivelent what would be clutching) and let the engine freewheel... but if you downshift na auto or DSG or manual it's the same effect.


----------



## 2112 (Jun 21, 2004)

Are there differing percentages (on average) in drivetrain loss of horsepower among front-wheel-drive, rear-wheel-drive, and all-wheel-drive vehicles?


----------



## 557688 (Aug 21, 2010)

Im sure this has been asked and answered many times somewhere, but ill ask it again. What is the reliability like regarding the e34 525i? Im looking at one and don't want to spend equal to it's worth in a year of owning it. I know that many BMW vehicles lack reliability, but it seems that this is an exception from the research i've done.


----------



## Neezy13 (Jun 1, 2011)

2112 said:


> Are there differing percentages (on average) in drivetrain loss of horsepower among front-wheel-drive, rear-wheel-drive, and all-wheel-drive vehicles?


Yes, typically fwd < rwd < awd. Probably roughly 15% for fwd, 20% for rwd, and 25% for awd. I pulled these numbers out of my a$$ so they may not be very accurate.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk


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## dorkage (Jul 7, 2009)

RWD and AWD tend to have more losses because the power has to get transferred at a 90 degree angle. I forget the actual number, but a lot of energy is wasted in the differential ring and pinon. Since FWD, or rather, transverse applications, don't have to make that 90 degree turn, they will have less drivetrain loss. Theatrically a RWD Transverse application shouldn't have any more drivetrain loss than similar FWD.


----------



## mujjuman (Jul 29, 2004)

How much would it cost to convert an automatic Jetta VR6 (MKIV) to a 5 or 6spd manual?


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## dorkage (Jul 7, 2009)

mujjuman said:


> How much would it cost to convert an automatic Jetta VR6 (MKIV) to a 5 or 6spd manual?


Depends how much you can get the parts for. I had a whole TDI for parts when I swapped a 5 speed into my wagon, with out having a whole car and every single part available I would recommend against it. The parts TDI was $650, 2000 Jetta, just had a broken axle and 500 000KM+ on the motor and chassis. I spent maybe another $600 getting all the odds and ends including a new VR6 clutch and old TDI flywheel, new clutch slave, axle, motor mount that broke, headgasket kit for next summer, etc.


----------



## mujjuman (Jul 29, 2004)

Sounds expensive. At 108k miles I feel my auto trans getting tired. Also I just read a few threads in the auto trans forum and it makes me sad lol. 
I wouldn't be able to DIY this either. 
There's a shop in NYC that has done M3 swaps on regular E46s for relatively cheap.... Maybe they can do a manual swap for me too lol!


----------



## dorkage (Jul 7, 2009)

mujjuman said:


> Sounds expensive. At 108k miles I feel my auto trans getting tired. Also I just read a few threads in the auto trans forum and it makes me sad lol.
> I wouldn't be able to DIY this either.
> There's a shop in NYC that has done M3 swaps on regular E46s for relatively cheap.... Maybe they can do a manual swap for me too lol!


Give this fellow a try, he's the expert on the 01m.
http://www.kansascitytdi.com/01mvalvebody.htm


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I have been valeting a lot of cars as part of my new job. One thing I've noticed is a lot of rental companies tie both sets of keys and remotes to the ring. This seems really stupid becuase a) the rental company has no key (unless they make a copy which seems pointless) and b)the customer can get charged for 2 lost keys if that happens. It also makes no sense becuase if you have one key, you have both... wtf?

Reasoning?


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

VDub2625 said:


> I have been valeting a lot of cars as part of my new job. One thing I've noticed is a lot of rental companies tie both sets of keys and remotes to the ring. This seems really stupid becuase a) the rental company has no key (unless they make a copy which seems pointless) and b)the customer can get charged for 2 lost keys if that happens. It also makes no sense becuase if you have one key, you have both... wtf?
> 
> Reasoning?


You often don't turn the car back into the same place from which you picked it up and some renters have 2 potential drivers. Also, why bother to keep track of keys? Let the customer do it and if they lose them (which is exceedingly rare), you get to bill them. :beer:


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

mujjuman said:


> Sounds expensive. At 108k miles I feel my auto trans getting tired. Also I just read a few threads in the auto trans forum and it makes me sad lol.
> I wouldn't be able to DIY this either.
> There's a shop in NYC that has done M3 swaps on regular E46s for relatively cheap.... Maybe they can do a manual swap for me too lol!


Hey, on newer cars it's far more difficult. The computerization/wiring is integral.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Air and water do mix said:


> You often don't turn the car back into the same place from which you picked it up and some renters have 2 potential drivers. Also, why bother to keep track of keys? Let the customer do it and if they lose them (which is exceedingly rare), you get to bill them. :beer:


That does make sense, actually. Except the bit about 2 drivers, becuase the keys are both on the same inseperable ring.


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## ABATurbo (Feb 11, 2010)

People really need to stop asking platform specific questions in here. That isn't the point of this thread. :facepalm:


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

VDub2625 said:


> That does make sense, actually. Except the bit about 2 drivers, becuase the keys are both on the same inseperable ring.


Odd. The last time I drove a rental, we could separate the keys. I don't rent too often, though. :beer:


----------



## DubNMiatafan (Feb 13, 2009)

Why do modern 4-cylinders sound so crappy compared to let's say the ones from the 60's? They seem to have such a great rasp and tone. Could it be carburetion vs. FI? Less exhaust piping?


----------



## DerSpiegel (Jun 20, 2008)

DubNMiatafan said:


> Why do modern 4-cylinders sound so crappy compared to let's say the ones from the 60's? They seem to have such a great rasp and tone. Could it be carburetion vs. FI? Less exhaust piping?


I'm going with induction noise on that one. Old fours are very bit as thrashy if not more so than new ones, but the old cars have that wonderful induction honk that comes with carburetion and un-muffled fuel injection systems. Add a good exhaust to that and yowza! Those things sound great. It's the same with other engine configurations actually, my old Camaro had the most wonderful induction roar through its Holley 4-barrel and un-enclosed air filter. :thumbup:


----------



## CostcoPizza (Jan 20, 2008)

*Something I've always been curious about.*

My car is a manual with 140,000 miles and on the original clutch. 

Which is the proper thing to do to minimize wear? 

Scenario: Going around 2-5MPH and needing to accelerate, which is too slow for 2nd gear and about 1000-1200 RPM in 1st. 

A. Slip the clutch until 2nd gear engages 
B. Put it in 1st (is that hard on the syncros?)


----------



## 20aeman (Jun 8, 2006)

mac dre said:


> My car is a manual with 140,000 miles and on the original clutch.
> 
> Which is the proper thing to do to minimize wear?
> 
> ...


 Double clutch into first. So clutch in > put the shifter in neutral > clutch out > rev match to where 1st gear will place rpms > *clutch in > *select first gear > *clutch out 

*steps with an asterisk must be done immediately and in quick succession 

Doing this does the synchro's job for it...so you're minimizing wear. This will also minimize any clutch slipping...agian minimizing wear.


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## mujjuman (Jul 29, 2004)

Sometimes I just keep my foot on the gas keeping the revs constant while slipping it into 1st... The car won't jerk.


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## RIPkevsGTI (Feb 12, 2003)

This may have been asked already... what is the benefit in modern cars having more than one accessory belt? My frame of reference is limited, as I havent' worked on a ton of cars. Both my 97 volvo and my 2000 jetta had a single accessory belt that did the AC comp, PS pump, alternator, etc on a single tensioner. It was super easy to change the belt. 

My wife's 06 mazda 3 and my 09 jetta both have a serp belt (alternator, ps pump) on a tensioner, plus a single belt that goes from the crank to the AC comp. There is no tensioner. This seems like a step backward in serviceability. I'm scared to change the belts. Do i need to remove the AC comp to get that belt off and on? How do people not cross thread bolts putting the comp back on? 

Why is it done this way? Is that required of cars that have timing chains for crank-cam timing?


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## AKADriver (Nov 20, 2001)

This is an educated guess, but: 

The A/C compressor clutch tends to engage abruptly and cycle often when it's on. The alternator and P/S loads vary, but they don't just "kick in". My guess is they put the A/C on its own belt because the compressor engagement would be more likely to throw a serpentine belt or at least cause it to slip. 

They also might use different A/C compressors and pulleys for different markets, or different models that use the same engine. 

On my car it's not set up that way; the alternator has a dedicated belt while the A/C and P/S are on a second belt. But that's because for a long time A/C and P/S were optional on Miatas. So there's an alternator belt, and an accessory belt.


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## 484 (Feb 10, 2011)

I do not know for sure why, but a good guess would be that the A/C compressor has a chance of seizing when the car is (very) old, and if it has a separate belt you can yank it off and still drive the car. 

It is also possible it is preferred from a mfg standpoint, all engines are built to completion, tested, and sent to the assembly line. If the car gets A/C, an A/C compressor and belt is chucked on - no need to swap out different length belts or coordinate which engine goes in which chassis. 

As for changing the belts, the A/C compressor and probably the alternator or PS (one item on each belt) probably has a slot at one of its mounting points. You loosen the mounting bolts, pivot the accessory slightly to create slack in the belt, install new belt, pivot accessory back and then tighten. You do not have to start threading a bolt with full tension on the belt, which is what I think you are scared of if I read that correctly.


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## VW1.8Tsunami (Mar 8, 2007)

I've never understood how to doing a timing belt job...the biggest confusion for me is TDC (top dead center) and marking the belt. Why do you need to mark the belt? Also, how do you know where TDC is? I want to do change mine but I afraid of getting down there and then getting stuck or messing something up and end up wasting a bunch of time/money.


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

VW1.8Tsunami said:


> I've never understood how to doing a timing belt job...the biggest confusion for me is TDC (top dead center) and marking the belt. Why do you need to mark the belt? Also, how do you know where TDC is? I want to do change mine but I afraid of getting down there and then getting stuck or messing something up and end up wasting a bunch of time/money.


 The belt isn't marked, as it's being replaced. However the pulleys other than the crankshaft, often don't have timing marks on them, so you may need to make your own. This is often also done to make sure they don't move upon reassembly. TDC will be marked on the crank pulley on most cars. Some old VW's use a mark on the flywheel instead. What kind of vehicle are you working on?


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## AKADriver (Nov 20, 2001)

VW1.8Tsunami said:


> I've never understood how to doing a timing belt job...the biggest confusion for me is TDC (top dead center) and marking the belt. Why do you need to mark the belt? Also, how do you know where TDC is? I want to do change mine but I afraid of getting down there and then getting stuck or messing something up and end up wasting a bunch of time/money.


 The crank and cam gears usually have marks that you need to line up. Different engines have different procedures. On some cars you need to use a special tool to lock the cam(s) in place. Best to look up a specific procedure for your engine, it should point out where the timing marks are and how to line them up. It's not that daunting. The hardest part of a timing belt job is usually just getting everything apart and out of the way.


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## clutchrider (Dec 11, 2010)

Curiousity. I had a 2002 Civic EX Coupe 5MT that I sold at 74k miles years back. It was burning 1qt. of oil every 1,000 miles (confirmed by dealership testing). Honda of America would not cover any kind of fix because they said that 1qt./1k miles is considered "acceptable" 

I have looked around the internet and seen lots of posts, inquiries, etc. on multiple brands/models of cars, trucks, SUVs, etc. So it seems almost like a common denominator for whatever reason. 

My question is why? Why are engines burning oil with no signs of smoke, leaks, other noticeable issues? And why are manufacturers considering it normal? Is it really normal or just a cover up on their end to keep from dealing with warranty claims? 

I'm genuinely interested because in my head I cannot understand how they would expect the average person/driver (read non-enthusiast) to check and stay on top of their oil levels without an indicator, warning lamp, info screen to tell them to add oil. So what's the deal.


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## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

clutchrider said:


> Curiousity. I had a 2002 Civic EX Coupe 5MT that I sold at 74k miles years back. It was burning 1qt. of oil every 1,000 miles (confirmed by dealership testing). Honda of America would not cover any kind of fix because they said that 1qt./1k miles is considered "acceptable"
> 
> I have looked around the internet and seen lots of posts, inquiries, etc. on multiple brands/models of cars, trucks, SUVs, etc. So it seems almost like a common denominator for whatever reason.
> 
> ...


 The pistons rings on a thin film of oil, there is very little clearance between the piston rings and the cylinder wall. But over time, the metal wears down and this creates a bigger gap between the components (You might've heard some people switching from 5W20 oil to 5W30 after 150,000 miles or so, this reason is usually why) But when the gap gets bigger, oil becomes able to slip inbetween the rings and the wall, thus entering the combustion chamber and get burned by the spark plug. It is not enough oil to emit visible smoke, it takes a LOT of oil to be ably to have blue smoke over all the fuel/exhaust fumes. But it is enough to be burned over 1000 miles or so. Higher mileage engines also have small leaks throughout the engine, oil pan gasket is most common. I would worry tooo much about it though, just stay on track wiith your oil changes and check it once or twice inbetween each one. My friend has a miata that burns a little more than a quart every 1000 miles. And my 3.8 100,000 mile mustang does the same.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

RIPkevsGTI said:


> I'm scared to change the belts. Do i need to remove the AC comp to get that belt off and on? How do people not cross thread bolts putting the comp back on?


 Whyy are you worried about cross-threading? That seems like a strange specific concern to have. 

You shouldn't have to unbolt major components for a belt swap (in most cars). Usually you just loosen the tensioning bolts and the belt falls off, then you do the same with the second. 



VW1.8Tsunami said:


> I've never understood how to doing a timing belt job...the biggest confusion for me is TDC (top dead center) and marking the belt. Why do you need to mark the belt?  Also, how do you know where TDC is? I want to do change mine but I afraid of getting down there and then getting stuck or messing something up and end up wasting a bunch of time/money.


 TDC is easily found if you have a long stick, I like to remove the #1 spark plug and drop it in (make SURE it's long enough to stick out when you do this!). Then hand crank the engine until it's fully sticking out (piston at the top). Usually there are markings on the crank pulley, cam pulley, and intermediate shaft if you have one that needs to be timed. 

Also, ALWAYS crank the engine by hand 2 full rotations after installing the belt, and then check the marks again. Usually slack gets pulled out and you have to set the cam a tooth ahead to account for it, and also to make sure no parts are physucally touching at any part in the rotation (it also helps to remove all the spark plugs so you can easily crank without compressing air).


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

clutchrider said:


> I cannot understand how they would expect the average person/driver (read non-enthusiast) to check and stay on top of their oil levels without an indicator, warning lamp, info screen to tell them to add oil. So what's the deal.


 
Seriously? 

the easiest thing in the world is to pop the hood while you're pumping gas once a week (or even every other) and pull out the dipstick and check. 

in fact, it wasn't even that long ago that it was common practice. 

adding warning lamps and sensors and all that is simply adding complications that could lead to failure if those very items don't work. 

it's just good housekeeping to maintain your own machine. being an enthusiast or not has nothing to do with it.


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## clutchrider (Dec 11, 2010)

TwoLitreVW said:


> Seriously?
> 
> the easiest thing in the world is to pop the hood while you're pumping gas once a week (or even every other) and pull out the dipstick and check.
> 
> ...


 I check my constantly. Actually I check ALL my fluids when I wash the car (almost weekly) while I'm drying under the hood and along the rain tray. I was just noting that for the A to B Corolla driving public.


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## ABATurbo (Feb 11, 2010)

So I had the dealer change the oil in my car right after I bought it, because they offer a free oil change when you purchase a car there. I noticed that the service order said 5w-20 instead of the manufacturer specified 5w30. Assuming this wasn't just a typo, what kind of long term damage or harm could this cause to my engine? I'm talking about the DISI 2.3T in my MS3, but I'm assuming any damage caused would be similar regardless of the engine.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

You'll be fine as long as you see no oil lights. 5W20 and 5W30 are close enough to basically be the same, nothing to be paranoid about.


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## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

clutchrider said:


> I check my constantly. Actually I check ALL my fluids when I wash the car (almost weekly) while I'm drying under the hood and along the rain tray. I was just noting that for the A to B Corolla driving public.


 I don't see why you would *need* to check your oil between oil changes. I do, but know many people who are somewhat enthusiasts and they don't. Unless you know your car is burning or leaking oil you should be fine bringing it to your dealer when your kilometer number is the same as the kilometer number on your window. 

:beer:


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## Omnilith (Jan 15, 2010)

You could do that, if you assumed that all mechanical and electronic devices always work as designed. 

Many people take that risk, but since I have nothing better to do when filling my tank, I don't mind making sure the fluids stayed where I put them since the last time I looked. 

Of course, 3/7ths of my fleet leaks, which isn't something I'm proud of.


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## VarianceVQ (Jun 26, 2005)

The Pathfinder could do with a power steering fluid top-off. The manual calls for Dexron II/III but I bought Prestone Power Steering Fluid (I haven't used it yet).

I just discovered that Dexron is actually a type of ATF fluid. Kind of wish the manual made that clear... So questions:

-I'm not going to use it and plan on buying actual Dexron-equivalent ATF fluid anyway to be on the safe side but would there be any harm in mixing the "actual" PSF in a system that calls for Dexron?

-Should I suction the old fluid out of the power steering reservoir before pouring the new stuff in? If so, how? (I know it would not completely flush the system.)

-While on the subject, I noticed there is special PSF sold for Hondas and Acuras. What makes their PS systems different that they need a different formulation than most everyone else?


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## clutchrider (Dec 11, 2010)

Had the 10k maintenance done to the GLI recently. It's free up to 36k, so why not. Told me my brakes were 10% worn up front and 30% in the rear?

Maybe I'm new to brake distribution tech but I always figured and was mostly right that on my other cars the fronts would wear faster. Even with a manual the fronts wore out faster over time, albeit at longer intervals.

So my question is, does brake distribution tech nowadays put more emphasis on rear braking? I don't know if it has to do with safety and keeping the car more level when braking so you don't get 
nose heavy if you have to make a maneuver or to help keep it straight on in case of an accident? Or does it have to do with the so-called "sports" suspension setup and the computer/brake programming trying to keep the car level for a more performance/sport feel?

I may be talking out my backside on those guesses but figured someone could answer why rear brakes would fade faster. Other than stating that I am driving in Reverse everywhere I go.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

VarianceVQ said:


> -While on the subject, I noticed there is special PSF sold for Hondas and Acuras. What makes their PS systems different that they need a different formulation than most everyone else?


Volkswagen is like this too, I believe it's a mineral hydraulic oil that makes the difference.


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## thetopdog (Nov 11, 2008)

This is a really stupid question but when I'm in the Gallardo I often get asked by random people to rev the engine and let them hear it. I also like to rev the engine sometimes (at night, away from residential areas) just to hear that V10 symphony.

Is revving the engine in neutral hard on the car in any way (assuming the car has been fully warmed up?). I remember reading years ago that revving an engine with no load wasn't good for the engine, but I can't remember why or if that's even true at all


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## tip (Aug 8, 2008)

clutchrider said:


> I may be talking out my backside on those guesses but figured someone could answer why rear brakes would fade faster. Other than stating that I am driving in Reverse everywhere I go.


When I was a VW tech in the 2000's I was always *TOLD* that VW rear pads are softer for more 'relaxed' brake feel. Made sense to me... I did wayyy more rear brakes than fronts.


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

thetopdog said:


> This is a really stupid question but when I'm in the Gallardo I often get asked by random people to rev the engine and let them hear it. I also like to rev the engine sometimes (at night, away from residential areas) just to hear that V10 symphony.
> 
> Is revving the engine in neutral hard on the car in any way (assuming the car has been fully warmed up?). I remember reading years ago that revving an engine with no load wasn't good for the engine, but I can't remember why or if that's even true at all


 Revving an engine with no load isn't good for the rods as you see more force applied to the rod in tension as opposed to under load where the Manifold pressure is higher. That said I'm not qualified to answer as to whether or not this change is enough to cause significant damage and exactly how many times you'd have to rev it under no load to cause the damage, and I'm sure it would vary with the engine. 

Along those same lines most mfgs put in a rev limiter in P/N/No load to avoid potential HSNL operation for an extended (detrimental) period of time. From an other point of view, more engine RPM is more wear so you're not helping it either. 

Engineering maturbatory exercise over, I really don't think it's that big a deal and if you give her a rev once or twice every now and again it's fine. I wouldn't just bounce the poor girl off the revlimiter for a minute or two on end, but that's a bit different than what you're describing.


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## thetopdog (Nov 11, 2008)

ravera said:


> Revving an engine with no load isn't good for the rods as you see more force applied to the rod in tension as opposed to under load where the Manifold pressure is higher. That said I'm not qualified to answer as to whether or not this change is enough to cause significant damage and exactly how many times you'd have to rev it under no load to cause the damage, and I'm sure it would vary with the engine.
> 
> Along those same lines most mfgs put in a rev limiter in P/N/No load to avoid potential HSNL operation for an extended (detrimental) period of time. From an other point of view, more engine RPM is more wear so you're not helping it either.
> 
> Engineering maturbatory exercise over, I really don't think it's that big a deal and if you give her a rev once or twice every now and again it's fine. I wouldn't just bounce the poor girl off the revlimiter for a minute or two on end, but that's a bit different than what you're describing.


Thanks for the feedback :thumbup:


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## 318989 (Mar 14, 2007)

Can someone explain to me how to read flow charts?


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

clutchrider said:


> Had the 10k maintenance done to the GLI recently. It's free up to 36k, so why not. Told me my brakes were 10% worn up front and 30% in the rear?
> 
> Maybe I'm new to brake distribution tech but I always figured and was mostly right that on my other cars the fronts would wear faster. Even with a manual the fronts wore out faster over time, albeit at longer intervals.
> 
> ...


it has nothing to do with brake distribution or how you drive it. VW makes the rear pads softer to prevent squeal (which customers then bitch about) which the rears are more susceptible to because of their reduced application pressure.


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

nismo4life said:


> Can someone explain to me how to read flow charts?


Cliffs? Y axis is the pressure ratio. 1 = 1atmosphere, 2= 1 Atmosphere over whatever atmospheric is at the time, so 0 ft ASL at 29.92mmHg would be 14.7psi of boost, etc, etc.

X axis is the amount of air that the turbo is flowing, in this instance it's in lb/min. 

The little rings that make it look like a topographical map are called efficiency islands. Those have the little percentages next to them. That means at that PR and flow rate, the turbo is that efficient (usually somewhere in the 70-something %). The lines that run mostly horizontally are the rotor speeds. Sometimes they're listed, sometimes they're not. If they are look for something in the 80-90k Rpm in a large turbo up to as high as a quarter million RPM + in the teensy guys. The top horizontal line where the islands stop is essentially the speed limit to the turbo. When someone is said to "overspeed" the turbo, they're going over that line. There can also be a line on the left side of the graph that's a relatively straight line and that's called the surge line. Above this line (too much PR too little flow) the compressor will go into surge. On the right side, the right most border of the lowest efficiency island is known as the choke line, or the maximum amount of flow the compressor can generate at that specific pressure ratio.


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

RIPkevsGTI said:


> My wife's 06 mazda 3 and my 09 jetta both have a serp belt (alternator, ps pump) on a tensioner, plus a single belt that goes from the crank to the AC comp. There is no tensioner. *This seems like a step backward in serviceability.* I'm scared to change the belts. Do i need to remove the AC comp to get that belt off and on? How do people not cross thread bolts putting the comp back on?
> 
> Why is it done this way? Is that required of cars that have timing chains for crank-cam timing?


It is a bit of a PITA to change the A/C belt in the 1st-gen. Mazda 3, but I've done it successfully. There are four bolts that hold the compressor to the bottom on the engine. You need to loosen them a bit to allow the compressor to tilt a bit and relieve tension on the belt. That's fairly easy, but it's a bit of a bitch to get the compressor aligned to allow the bolts to thread properly with the new belt on. I ended up using my floor jack to hold the compressor in place, as I couldn't do it with one hand. Good luck!:beer:


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## NuggetYellowG60 (May 13, 2009)

The master cylinder is designed that during light breaking, it only uses the rear brake calipers to conserve the fronts. Freeway driving & casual city driving require light braking-to-moderate. Rears are used more than fronts 

Indy VW Technician


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

NuggetYellowG60 said:


> The master cylinder is designed that during light breaking, it only uses the rear brake calipers to conserve the fronts. Freeway driving & casual city driving require light braking-to-moderate. Rears are used more than fronts
> 
> Indy VW Technician


This is news to me but interesting :thumbup:


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

NuggetYellowG60 said:


> The master cylinder is designed that during light breaking, it only uses the rear brake calipers to conserve the fronts. Freeway driving & casual city driving require light braking-to-moderate. Rears are used more than fronts
> 
> Indy VW Technician


I swear my wife's Mazda 3 is like this. If I do some light braking, the rears heat up more than the fronts. At heavier levels of braking, the reverse is true. I remember reading somewhere that they do this to limit brake dive at moderate applications, but I can't say if this is really true.


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## BmwFanBoy (Aug 25, 2011)

Does VW do a European delivery program? And also why don't cars with onboard info systems display elevation?


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## NuggetYellowG60 (May 13, 2009)

IJM said:


> I swear my wife's Mazda 3 is like this. If I do some light braking, the rears heat up more than the fronts. At heavier levels of braking, the reverse is true. I remember reading somewhere that they do this to limit brake dive at moderate applications, but I can't say if this is really true.


I think it also has to do with slowing down the rear is more comfortable than slowing down the front. Or something. I dunno.. haha


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

My 1996 F150 has the 5.0L V8, truck has 168,000 miles on it, runs great, no valve tick, no oil leaks.

Its time to change the oil again, and I was wondering if I'll run into any issues running 5w-30 in it instead of 10w-30? I know the 5 allows for easier starts but is it that big of a deal? 

Also, let's say I decide to go the synthetic route, at this point in the engines life would I run into any issues?


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

You should be fine with 1 step lighter or heavier oil. Not a big deal on that engine. Use lighter for easier starts and better mileage, heavier to reduce oil consumption/leaks. 

As far a synthetic...it will clean the heck out of your engine at this point. IF any of the seals are weak/compromised, they might start to leak. Meaning, they might be held together by grime/sludge and when you get rid of that, they may begin to leak. If you stick with the synthetic for a while, the seals that were a bit dried out because of the layer of sludge/grime on them may plump back up when exposed to oil again and the leaks may go away. That's what happened when I began to run synthetic in my old Audi CGT. 

YMMV


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## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

A simple, somewhat stupid question.

Take for example a Mazda CX-5 with auto. It has push-button start and no key slot. If the battery dies and you must move your car, can you put the gear lever in neutral, or will it be locked in the park position? How about steering lock?

Thanks


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

2.0_Mazda said:


> A simple, somewhat stupid question.
> 
> Take for example a Mazda CX-5 with auto. It has push-button start and no key slot. If the battery dies and you must move your car, can you put the gear lever in neutral, or will it be locked in the park position? How about steering lock?
> 
> Thanks


 There should be a little postage stamp or smaller sized cover you can take off and use a screwdriver or similar to disengage the shift lock so you can get it into neutral. I'd imagine there's something similar for the steeringwheel.


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## Giovanni (May 13, 2000)

The person who designed the kia k9 also designed which year and model audi?


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## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

ravera said:


> There should be a little postage stamp or smaller sized cover you can take off and use a screwdriver or similar to disengage the shift lock so you can get it into neutral. I'd imagine there's something similar for the steeringwheel.


Thanks


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

Giovanni said:


> The person who designed the kia k9 also designed which year and model audi?


tt a3 a4 and a6 

worked for vw 93-06 according to wikipedia


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## dirtyfingers (Apr 29, 2007)

If you accidentally hit someones car and leave a note with your phone number, but the person never calls you - what do you do?

Do you try to confront the person or do you play dumb after 3+ months of no response?


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

StormChaser said:


> You should be fine with 1 step lighter or heavier oil. Not a big deal on that engine. Use lighter for easier starts and better mileage, heavier to reduce oil consumption/leaks.
> 
> As far a synthetic...it will clean the heck out of your engine at this point. IF any of the seals are weak/compromised, they might start to leak. Meaning, they might be held together by grime/sludge and when you get rid of that, they may begin to leak. If you stick with the synthetic for a while, the seals that were a bit dried out because of the layer of sludge/grime on them may plump back up when exposed to oil again and the leaks may go away. That's what happened when I began to run synthetic in my old Audi CGT.
> 
> YMMV


Well I switched it over to Mobil 1 10W-30, I think I'll do the first change at 3,000 miles ans then every 7,500 after that.


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## AKADriver (Nov 20, 2001)

dirtyfingers said:


> If you accidentally hit someones car and leave a note with your phone number, but the person never calls you - what do you do?


No harm no foul. You made a reasonable effort to contact them.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

2.0_Mazda said:


> A simple, somewhat stupid question.
> 
> Take for example a Mazda CX-5 with auto. It has push-button start and no key slot. If the battery dies and you must move your car, can you put the gear lever in neutral, or will it be locked in the park position? How about steering lock?
> 
> Thanks


Even with a key, most cars have an electronic shift lock, which in that case as mentioned there is a way to unlock it mnaually right on the shifter. As for the steering, I have seen some sloppily designed key systems that just put a plug over the original key lock on the column, ones with a better-hidden lock must have a similar key lock somewhere.


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## dirtyfingers (Apr 29, 2007)

AKADriver said:


> No harm no foul. You made a reasonable effort to contact them.


Right... but what if for example they come back 3 years later just before they trade in their car and say, "hey, time to pay up!"

Can someone do some sort of paper/ink analysis to show the note was 3 years old and the person is crazy? Or am I over thinking this?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

dirtyfingers said:


> Or am I over thinking this?


Got it.

How were they supposed to get the note three years later? After a reasonable amount of time, any judge would just ignore it. Judge Judy taught me that


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## dirtyfingers (Apr 29, 2007)

VDub2625 said:


> Got it.
> 
> How were they supposed to get the note three years later? After a reasonable amount of time, any judge would just ignore it. Judge Judy taught me that


I don't think you understand what I am saying.

Lets say 3 years later they try to collect and we tell them off. Then they go to the cops and show them the note. Saying that they found it "a few days ago" and that we won't pay.

How will the cops/judge know the true length of time if it is their word against ours?


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

dirtyfingers said:


> I don't think you understand what I am saying.
> 
> Lets say 3 years later they try to collect and we tell them off. Then they go to the cops and show them the note. Saying that they found it "a few days ago" and that we won't pay.
> 
> How will the cops/judge know the true length of time if it is their word against ours?


they won't, and it'll be exactly that: you word against theirs.

no proof one way or the other, and running it through the legal system will be more trouble than it's worth.

don't sweat the small stuff.


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## dirtyfingers (Apr 29, 2007)

TwoLitreVW said:


> don't sweat the small stuff.


That's easy for you to say. My wife hit an Audi A8. I'm still pissing myself.


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## DzlDub (Aug 16, 2007)

What's the difference between gear oil and transmission fluid, if any? Are they interchangeable?
All the 75W-90 oils I see are synthetic, is this the case? I think 80W-90 can be standard petroleum based.


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## DzlDub (Aug 16, 2007)

Any thoughts on the oil issue? It's been on my mind for a while!


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## FissionMailed (May 26, 2006)

DzlDub said:


> What's the difference between gear oil and transmission fluid, if any? Are they interchangeable?
> All the 75W-90 oils I see are synthetic, is this the case? I think 80W-90 can be standard petroleum based.


 Somebody else is gonna have to go into more detail/clarify here, but...Transmission fluid (like dexron/mercon etc) is a hydraulic oil, designed to transmit forces/pressure/etc. It also lubricates. Gear oil is just a really thick (usually petroleum-based) lubricating oil. 

They are not interchangable, though certain Mazda/Ford manual transmissions do use ATF.


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

DzlDub said:


> What's the difference between gear oil and transmission fluid, if any? Are they interchangeable?
> All the 75W-90 oils I see are synthetic, is this the case? I think 80W-90 can be standard petroleum based.


 Not the same thing and not interchangeable. http://www.doityourself.com/stry/transmission-fluid-vs-gear-oil#.UFxxjqPbQis


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## therichisgood (Mar 7, 2004)

Might have already been answered but.. 
Why is diesel fuel more expensive at the pump than gasoline? Isn't diesel less refined/processed than gas?


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## ttvick (Aug 15, 2007)

Could you explain what the best solution is in this scenario please? 
1. Detail car with clay bar and wax. 
2. Drive car relatively short distance on dry day. 
3. Return home, car looks clean but has a thin layer﻿ of road dust/grime. 
Is there any way to remove this safely by wiping without essentially re-washing the car? Would "quik-detailer" and a clean chamois work? How about a California Car Duster?


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## David802 (Feb 23, 2011)

ttvick said:


> Could you explain what the best solution is in this scenario please?
> 1. Detail car with clay bar and wax.
> 2. Drive car relatively short distance on dry day.
> 3. Return home, car looks clean but has a thin layer﻿ of road dust/grime.
> Is there any way to remove this safely by wiping without essentially re-washing the car? Would "quik-detailer" and a clean chamois work? How about a California Car Duster?


 For car dust I like to use a microfiber towel by itself.


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## ttvick (Aug 15, 2007)

Seems like that could lead to scratching the paint, though my paint is far from perfect as it is... anyone else care to chime in?


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

R-Acs said:


> Might have already been answered but..
> Why is diesel fuel more expensive at the pump than gasoline? Isn't diesel less refined/processed than gas?


 yes, but it's not as abundant for the consumer as gasoline. 

as i understand it, it's basic supply and demand.


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## David802 (Feb 23, 2011)

ttvick said:


> Seems like that could lead to scratching the paint, though my paint is far from perfect as it is... anyone else care to chime in?


 Sorry, I should have been more clear. I will usually use an MF and very lightly dust the car... Not just wipe it down. Any wiping you do is going to leave tiny scratches, even if you use a quick detailer and there are things you can do to lesson this, like wiping in straight lines so you don't create swirls. I guess, if you have an air compressor or a leaf blower, you could blow it off with air .... Those are my suggestiosn. Your question may get better answers in the detailing section. there are a lot of people in there with a lot of really good experience and knowledge. :thumbup:


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## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

Why does car a/c systems just drain water onto the ground below the car? 
Why not run the water to an intake area to help cool the intake charge? 
It's free pure (cold) water. 
If you running the a/c, it probably hot....


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Do you mean like water injection? Seems like a lot of work and engineering for not much benefit.


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## accRazor (Dec 28, 2010)

This is a question that I have been thinking about for some time now. Are car mods illegal (particularly engine related)? What classifies as an illegal mod? Does this depend on state (USA) regulations? 

For example, adding a turbo to a NA engine.


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## DerSpiegel (Jun 20, 2008)

accRazor said:


> This is a question that I have been thinking about for some time now. Are car mods illegal (particularly engine related)? What classifies as an illegal mod? Does this depend on state (USA) regulations?
> 
> For example, adding a turbo to a NA engine.


 I see you're in SoCal by your profile, so I'll take it from there. Car mods are defined as illegal mostly on a state-to-state basis. You and I are in Cali, so that makes us special in a bad way. California is strict with engine modifications. Aftermarket companies have to apply to the California Air Resources Board (CARB) showing they do not interfere or compromise the emissions standards for a particular vehicle in reference to their products. Here in California it's called an Executive Order or E.O. 

Things such as catback exhausts and cold air intakes are relatively easy for companies to make California smog legal. When it comes to software reflashes, intake manifolds, headers, cylinder head swaps, etc, that gets more difficult. When adding forced induction such as a turbo or supercharger, it is illegal as all bugger hell unless the company that supplies it has gone through the entire CARB certification process. 

http://www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/aftermkt/devices/amquery.php 

I can tell you more when it comes to engine swaps, etc. if you want to know.


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## DerSpiegel (Jun 20, 2008)

BRealistic said:


> Why does car a/c systems just drain water onto the ground below the car?
> Why not run the water to an intake area to help cool the intake charge?
> It's free pure (cold) water.
> If you running the a/c, it probably hot....


 Probably because the amount of water due to condensation isn't useful enough to build a recirculation system for. If you did build a recirculation system for it, that system would have to adapt to the humidity of different climates, etc. adding to complexity, weight, serviceability, and all the other things manufacturers try to minimize when designing vehicles.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

DerSpiegel said:


> Things such as catback exhausts and cold air intakes are relatively easy for companies to make California smog legal. When it comes to software reflashes, intake manifolds, headers, cylinder head swaps, etc, that gets more difficult. When adding forced induction such as a turbo or supercharger, it is illegal as all bugger hell unless the company that supplies it has gone through the entire CARB certification process.
> 
> http://www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/aftermkt/devices/amquery.php
> 
> I can tell you more when it comes to engine swaps, etc. if you want to know.


 Which is why even things such as cats have a 49 state, and a California approved, version, so they can charge more for that approval, or sometimes they won't even sell a CA version, just 49 state. 

As for engine swaps, as long as it is from a newer model year vehicle, and meets the *newer* emission standards, it's legal, correct? This I think is in opposition to most (all?) other states, such as here in MA where the engine must be newer, but the car's original emission standards apply (my friend bought a 97 VR6-swapped 95 Golf, with a CARB cert sticker, though ehre in MA it falls under OBD1 rules and doesn't even get emissions tested).


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## above8k (Aug 15, 2012)

I saw on this window sticker. No schedule tune-ups - 100,000+ miles, under normal conditions. 

What does it mean? I know oil change, tire rotation/alignment etc. are necessary. What else then?


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

above8k said:


> I saw on this window sticker. No schedule tune-ups - 100,000+ miles, under normal conditions.
> 
> What does it mean? I know oil change, tire rotation/alignment etc. are necessary. What else then?


 things like air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, cap and rotor (where applicable), water pump, thermostat, coolant flush, etc.


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## above8k (Aug 15, 2012)

TwoLitreVW said:


> things like air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, cap and rotor (where applicable), water pump, thermostat, coolant flush, etc.


 Thanks. I thought there is some service that dealer will do for free.:sly:


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## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

Why is value tied so tightly to age more than anything else (for normal vehicles)? 

To me- condition and miles means more than age, but the market says modal year is the defining variable for vehicle in average or better condition.


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## FissionMailed (May 26, 2006)

BRealistic said:


> Why is value tied so tightly to age more than anything else (for normal vehicles)?
> 
> To me- condition and miles means more than age, but the market says modal year is the defining variable for vehicle in average or better condition.


 Everybody wants the newest, latest, greatest, most reliable stuff out there. And generally speaking, I'd rather have a 100k mile car that's 3-4 years old than a 1997 car with 40k on the clock


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

BRealistic said:


> Why is value tied so tightly to age more than anything else (for normal vehicles)?


 I'd say safety is the main feature that improves every year, so a lot of people think that a newer car equals a safer car. To most people, a car is just an appliance for transport and they assume the rest of the word is the same with similar usage habits. So assuming every car is used at the same rate (even though it is not true), a newer car will have less wear in their minds.

Mileage is the other factor in pricig because the general non car loving population can understand that more miles = more wear, over say, idling hours.

IMHO anyway.


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## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

R-Acs said:


> Might have already been answered but..
> Why is diesel fuel more expensive at the pump than gasoline? Isn't diesel less refined/processed than gas?


 Yes, it is. 

In some places it is cheaper. In some places it costs more. Oftentimes there is more tax included in the price of diesel because the assumption is that vehicles using it (large trucks) cause more wear and tear on the roads. Back in the day this was more true than today but I'm pretty sure commercial trucks still outnumber diesel cars by an order of magnitude especially when you consider it by miles traveled. 

This is also why there is farm/off-road only diesel sold in rural and farming areas. No state/federal road taxes applied so it costs much less. It's also dyed and you're in big trouble if it is found in your 18-wheeler.


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## Fisherson (Dec 22, 2008)

Do IS300s have popup nav screens?


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## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

FissionMailed said:


> Everybody wants the newest, latest, greatest, most reliable stuff out there. And generally speaking, I'd rather have a 100k mile car that's 3-4 years old than a 1997 car with 40k on the clock


Yeah- but even on the low end of the spectrum, people get all hot and bothered over newer even if the newer car was crap when new.

For example- I am trying to help a friend find a cheap car (first mistake right there).....
She found somebody selling an auto 2001 Kia Spectra in less than average condition with 250k miles for $1500..
And I found better 90's cars in MUCH better shape for similar coin.. nope, she really wants the *two thousand and one!* car because 2001. :facepalm:

I have had car dealers play the year thing too when trying to sell me on a trade/sell "You will be trading from a 2001 up to a 2002!" Yeah, but my 2001 has more stuff and has less miles and is in better shape.


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## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

Roadkilled78 said:


> Yes, it is.
> 
> In some places it is cheaper. In some places it costs more. Oftentimes there is more tax included in the price of diesel because the assumption is that vehicles using it (large trucks) cause more wear and tear on the roads. Back in the day this was more true than today but I'm pretty sure commercial trucks still outnumber diesel cars by an order of magnitude especially when you consider it by miles traveled.
> 
> This is also why there is farm/off-road only diesel sold in rural and farming areas. No state/federal road taxes applied so it costs much less. It's also dyed and you're in big trouble if it is found in your 18-wheeler.


I read somewhere that the diesel issue in the US is they just don't have the refining capacity to meet anything close to our road diesel fuel demand- add in the diesel fuel refining infrastructures developed in other countries/markets due to their past history of higher diesel use. So the US imports almost all(?) diesel fuel for road use.
And what incentive do the oil companies have to set up more diesel refineries in the US when they can refine gas cheap (due to cheap natural gas)and export it for big profits?


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## RennbahnPolizei (Jun 8, 2011)

Weird! Diesel is cheaper over here than gas. 

Euro95: 1.870 Euro/L
Diesel: 1.522 Euro/L


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

why did older dtm cars have the exhaust tips point up?


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## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

71DubBugBug said:


> why did older dtm cars have the exhaust tips point up?


maximum pollution


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

I've been trying to get my head around whether having flat/lower pressure tires affects the speedo. 

My mindbomb is that a flatter tire makes the rim closer to the ground, so it's like a smaller radius tire. On the flip side, the tire still has the same 'circumference' to travel per wheel/axle rotation.

Anyone?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Not the same circumfrence since the tire is no longer a circle. The tire "bunches up" at the front (however slightly), and bows out at the sides. The rolling diameter (from the center point to the ground, an average along the whole turn of the wheel) is what matters.

But the, at max, 1-2" of difference from a flat tire won't affect the speedo greatly.


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

I think I'm slowly getting it, but in my head there is x amount of tread, and every revolution the axle makes, that x amount of tread must also make the full revolution unless is it slipping on the rim. Obviously the car is lower, so what am I missing here?


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## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

drecian said:


> I think I'm slowly getting it, but in my head there is x amount of tread, and every revolution the axle makes, that x amount of tread must also make the full revolution unless is it slipping on the rim. Obviously the car is lower, so what am I missing here?


circumference of a circle = pi * diameter

only changing the diameter will change the circumference, and thus the speedo reading.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

drecian said:


> I think I'm slowly getting it, but in my head there is x amount of tread, and every revolution the axle makes, that x amount of tread must also make the full revolution unless is it slipping on the rim. Obviously the car is lower, so what am I missing here?


The tire is doing all kinds of bad rubing when it turns and is flat. Also the center section usually bows up and doesn't even touch the ground. It's flexible remember


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

VDub2625 said:


> The tire is doing all kinds of bad rubing when it turns and is flat. Also the center section usually bows up and doesn't even touch the ground. It's flexible remember


Ah I getcha now.
Cheers!


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## tall tex (Jan 11, 2012)

BRealistic said:


> I read somewhere that the diesel issue in the US is they just don't have the refining capacity to meet anything close to our road diesel fuel demand- add in the diesel fuel refining infrastructures developed in other countries/markets due to their past history of higher diesel use. So the US imports almost all(?) diesel fuel for road use.
> And what incentive do the oil companies have to set up more diesel refineries in the US when they can refine gas cheap (due to cheap natural gas)and export it for big profits?


It is not necessarily a factor of the refining capacity. It is not extremely difficult ot have the refinery change the balance of gas vs. diesel that they produce. The US does not import a majority of the diesel, we produce enough that we are actually an exporter of diesel.



Roadkilled78 said:


> Yes, it is.
> 
> In some places it is cheaper. In some places it costs more. Oftentimes there is more tax included in the price of diesel because the assumption is that vehicles using it (large trucks) cause more wear and tear on the roads. Back in the day this was more true than today but I'm pretty sure commercial trucks still outnumber diesel cars by an order of magnitude especially when you consider it by miles traveled.
> 
> This is also why there is farm/off-road only diesel sold in rural and farming areas. No state/federal road taxes applied so it costs much less. It's also dyed and you're in big trouble if it is found in your 18-wheeler.


Diesel is often typically taxed higher as well due to the older mentality of the 80's diesel cars, stinky, slow, polluters. The higher tax was to provide an incentive to stick with the "cleaner" gasoline powered vehicles.

As for the offroad diesel, there is/was a difference in the sulfur content in the US. For the on-road diesel application we have the current ULSD standard (15ppm or less). Off-road diesel on the other hand is 500 ppm but required to move towards the ULSD standard.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

tall tex said:


> The US does not import a majority of the diesel, we produce enough that we are actually an exporter of diesel.


Is it possible you're both right? i remember reading somewhere that the US exports and imports gas at high rates, maybe even at parity, but why, I have no clue (maybe that can be a question to answer here?).


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

Do seals around rotating parts leak more when the part is spinning? Examples being axle seals, rear main seals etc


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

drecian said:


> Do seals around rotating parts leak more when the part is spinning? Examples being axle seals, rear main seals etc


No, because parts expand with heat making the seal tighter.


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

Disagree. Based on experience, I've seen them, time and time again, leak while loaded up bit the leak stops when not. For example the shaft seal on my boat. It is SUPPOSED to leak (drip) while the shaft is spinning, and even a slow drip while not spinning is fine...but in my case there is only a drip while the shaft is spinning.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

StormChaser said:


> Disagree. Based on experience, I've seen them, time and time again, leak while loaded up bit the leak stops when not. For example the shaft seal on my boat. It is SUPPOSED to leak (drip) while the shaft is spinning, and even a slow drip while not spinning is fine...but in my case there is only a drip while the shaft is spinning.


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

Really? Why that reaction? Fluid dynamics is fluid dynamics. Seals under pressure/stress will leak more.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

StormChaser said:


> Really? Why that reaction? Fluid dynamics is fluid dynamics. Seals under pressure/stress will leak more.


In case you hadn't noticed he was specifically asking about automotive seals in a car question thread. Please show me where there is any "pressure" on wheel bearing seals. How about tail shaft seals? Even the rear main he mentions has no "pressure" acting against it except crankcase gases. 

Nobody was talking about boat shaft seals.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

My Passat's front crack seal has a massive leak only when running, but that's because it's only bathed in oil when the pump is pumping. I suspect that's true for most seals in a car, since the oil otherwise just sits in the pan (except when cooling down and dropping down to it, and some areas where oil is hung up).

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

VDub2625 said:


> My ...since the oil otherwise just sits in the pan (except when cooling down and dropping down to it, and some areas where oil is hung up).


I totally overlooked that (not so) little fact...


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

How come more manufacturers don't make FWD cars FMF? basically, take the standard layout for FWD, with the engine and transmission side by side, and move the differential to the front, instead of the rear, so the wheels can be pushed further forward?


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

Packaging and cost.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Doesn't seem like it would cost much, and packaging stays mostly the same except the front wheels are further forward...


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

VDub2625 said:


> Doesn't seem like it would cost much, and packaging stays mostly the same except the front wheels are further forward...


If you flip the engine around, you've pretty much got the engine stuffed right up against the firewall which is a hassle for either intake or exhaust, depending on the engine. You can only tilt the engine so far forward because you'll now have a halfshaft in the way and it's against the angle of the hoodline. Also, you've now got to figure out where to put the rack since the diff will now probably be pretty close to where the radiator is and the engine and transaxle now sit where it used to be. Once you've got that figured out where are you going to put the steering shaft and make it work for R/L hand drive cars. Also, now that you've stuffed the engine against the firewall you've now got to figure out where you're going to put your brake master/booster and clutch master, if it's going to have one, since they're usually on the firewall, and remember it has to work in Right and Left hand drive markets as well. Also, many radiators and condensers are wider than the narrowest part of the wheel house so you've got to consider total wheel movement in this as well as moving the wheel house forward that much will most likely impinge on the radiator core support. 

There is a lot that goes into that kind of packaging, even if it sounds straight forward (and at the outset, it does).


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

VDub2625 said:


> How come more manufacturers don't make FWD cars FMF? basically, take the standard layout for FWD, with the engine and transmission side by side, and move the differential to the front, instead of the rear, so the wheels can be pushed further forward?


Old Saabs are sort of like that, with the engine mounted longitudinally "backwards" (accessories like alternator, A/C compressor face the firewall) with the clutch at the front of the engine compartment and the transmission under the engine.


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

Technically though that's still FF as the axle centerline still appears to be behind the front of the engine. In his question, the front axle centerline would have to be all the way up there by the radiator.


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## Biff Beltsander (Jul 14, 2010)

Is this accurate? I'm thinking it would have to be a traditional non gel type of toothpaste.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I don't think it would be that stupid a redesign. I use Volkswagen as my frame of reference. No redesign of the engine at all, nor of the firewall (except that you can move it closer if you wish). Just flip the diff to the front (basically flip the trans over on itself). Basically the diff and axle takes up the gap between the engine and radiator, and leaves a big gap behind it.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk


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## justinhannoldVW (Jul 27, 2009)

Does anyone have a picture of 1985-1992 vw jetta driver side front frame rail with electrical connections, beside radiator near front bumper?? I Cleaned up battery tray area and didn't label connecting wires.
Part numbers on Plugs-171-919-379A....161-971-989A..171-919-141...171-971-934A....191-951-195 Not sure which plugs connects to which? 
Thanks in advance!


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I can help but that isn't an "afraid to ask" question.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

Biff Beltsander said:


> Is this accurate? I'm thinking it would have to be a traditional non gel type of toothpaste.


Possibly.

I use toothpaste to polish out fine scratches on my watches (leaves them smelling minty fresh too!), so I'd say the concept would work. Might have better luck with something more abrasive like cutting compound though.
And yes, I use the traditional non gel stuff on my watches.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

drecian said:


> Possibly.


Toothpaste is just a really gentle polish, so it sounds plausible. I've also heard it's great for removing shotgun spores from vinyl siding.


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## GTIVR6MK4 (Sep 14, 2000)

I have the remote key start option on my car (toyota oem), is there anyway to keep it running when i try to enter the vehicle? Because it auto shuts off once i pull on the door handles..

Its a safety feature but extremely annoying.. (there's no mention of this in the manual)


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## AKADriver (Nov 20, 2001)

drecian said:


> Possibly.
> 
> I use toothpaste to polish out fine scratches on my watches (leaves them smelling minty fresh too!), so I'd say the concept would work. Might have better luck with something more abrasive like cutting compound though.
> And yes, I use the traditional non gel stuff on my watches.


Using toothpaste on headlights isn't worth it, because it's just a massive pain in the ass and the products specifically made for the job of buffing headlight lenses are so widely available and cheap. This is one of those "reddit/pinterest life hacks" circulated by people who are too intimidated by car maintenance to seek out the right product, they're comforted by the idea of using a household item.

Boom, 15 bucks.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

GTIVR6MK4 said:


> I have the remote key start option on my car (toyota oem), is there anyway to keep it running when i try to enter the vehicle? Because it auto shuts off once i pull on the door handles..
> 
> Its a safety feature but extremely annoying.. (there's no mention of this in the manual)


I have no experience with Toyota's system, but on Ford's it's a programable option.
Maybe call your dealer and ask if it's that way too.


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## Biff Beltsander (Jul 14, 2010)

Surf Green said:


> Toothpaste is just a really gentle polish, so it sounds plausible. I've also heard it's great for removing shotgun spores from vinyl siding.





AKADriver said:


> Using toothpaste on headlights isn't worth it, because it's just a massive pain in the ass and the products specifically made for the job of buffing headlight lenses are so widely available and cheap. This is one of those "reddit/pinterest life hacks" circulated by people who are too intimidated by car maintenance to seek out the right product, they're comforted by the idea of using a household item.
> 
> Boom, 15 bucks.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY


I've used jewellers polish for years, a former mechanic suggested it and I found it to work well. Using toothpaste would needless to say cost less then "boom, 15 bucks", especially if the result is going to be similar.
The picture was from a "life hacks" post on a blog sure, other then that... Quite the reaction there.


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## Egz (May 30, 2002)

Ok, I can understand disabling the passenger airbag when something light is in the seat, like a child. But why is it on when nothing is in the seat? Why no off until something heavy enough is sitting there?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I think it is off, it just knows there is no one there.

A lot of cars will leave the off light on when no one is there, but it's distracting at night. 

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk


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## Turbo Benzina! (Feb 7, 2010)

Egz said:


> Ok, I can understand disabling the passenger airbag when something light is in the seat, like a child. But why is it on when nothing is in the seat? Why no off until something heavy enough is sitting there?


Most, if not all cars has a sensor in the seat so the pass. airbag won't go off unless there is someone sitting in the seat. :thumbup:


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## pmanpop (Jun 25, 2010)

I am leaving for vacation for 3 weeks in december. I want to put a car cover on my car since it rains but i cant park it on the flat street for more than 72 hours. So my only option is putting it in the driveway which is rather steep. Does it put unwanted wear on car? 
Ill park it the correct way but will it put wear on the e-brake mechanism, and does the slope do anything to the fluids when i go to start it after 3 weeks. Maybe im just to crazy worrying about it. Thanks


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Your going you crazy. No wear, no problems. My Jetta was on jack stands for a year, started up no problem 

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk


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## pmanpop (Jun 25, 2010)

VDub2625 said:


> Your going you crazy. No wear, no problems. My Jetta was on jack stands for a year, started up no problem
> 
> Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk


Thanks!


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

pmanpop said:


> I am leaving for vacation for 3 weeks in december. I want to put a car cover on my car since it rains but i cant park it on the flat street for more than 72 hours. So my only option is putting it in the driveway which is rather steep. Does it put unwanted wear on car?
> Ill park it the correct way but will it put wear on the e-brake mechanism, and does the slope do anything to the fluids when i go to start it after 3 weeks. Maybe im just to crazy worrying about it. Thanks


:laugh:

There are far worse things to worry about. Your concerns are unfounded.


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

trucknut on TTORA said:


> Ok...so i work at A-Reliable, we were bought out last year by LKQ which is world wide and well known in the automotive market. We were contacted by Toyota about a week ago and they are paying us 49.9 million dollars to do this for them, they are buying us all sorts of new equipment and supplies to get them this done as soon as possible and as fast and quietly as possible. I just had to share!
> 
> Toyota has chosen our company to do the procedures, Toyota has recalled every Tacoma produced from 1995 til present date, they are buying back the trucks from dealers, private owners, auto rebuilders, etc and destroying all of them. They are trying to keep this as quiet as possible, we will be receiving over 125,000 of these truck which will be spread over the entire US to all of the other LKQ yards and our included, we started getting a few in today, there are expected to be about 10,000 coming to our yard and we have 24 hours of the drop of date, to photograph them, drain them, crush them and photograph them again.
> 
> ...


What other trucks made in the last ~25 years have this same problem?


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## Buickboy92 (Sep 5, 2009)

Does anyone know what kind of car this is?  I can't figure it out.


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

Buickboy92 said:


> Does anyone know what kind of car this is?  I can't figure it out.


I'm probably wrong, but something about that car isn't right to me. If it was old enough to have those fender mirrors, seems like it should have proper wire wheels instead of (what looks to me like) wire style covers. The mirrors were more often round that square. The headlamp grills seem too agricultural/military. A lot of the chrome trim doesn't line up and kinda looks like the autozone adhesive trim, not to mention it looks overdone.
IMO the car looks like its been riced out...

Anyone care to chime in?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

They probably built their own frankencar for the cover so as not to favor any particular model


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Wow. That is a janky cover photo.


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## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

How does timing stay synced? When the belt or chain is installed everything works fine. But how -- years later -- does the timing stay perfectly lined up? I'd think that there would be some sort of creep involved.


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## RatBustard (Jun 15, 2007)

a tensioner deals with elongated timing belts and chain/guide wear.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Before there were tensioners you simply replaced the gear set and chain. You compensated for chain stretch by adjusting the timing. That only worked for so long before you had chain slap that could wreck the housing, or worse, slip a tooth or two.


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## Gus Polinski (Jul 20, 2001)

What is considered a car "platform"? Ie., when cars share a platform, what does that mean? I'll hang up and listen.


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

mawingo said:


> What is considered a car "platform"? Ie., when cars share a platform, what does that mean? I'll hang up and listen.


Usually suspension geometry and, in the case of some FWD cars, subframe components. Also cars sharing a platform typically share the same engine/trans/drive options.

Example, my Audi A3 is on a mk5 platform. While you could swap suspension components, the shocks are likely damped differently and the springs probably have different spring constants to compensate for the weight difference of the cars while maintaining proper damping of both. In other words, the parts from one will bolt to the other, but it might handle funky. AFAIK, the subframe is identical from one to the other. Additionally, the 2.0T, 3.2 and TDI engines are the "same" from the mk5 to the A3 ("same" because, at a minimum, they have different engine covers/badges) and the transmissions available were a DSG or a 6 speed manual. DSG gave you the AWD option. Does that help?


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

*Question*: What is rev hang? Is it good/bad? What causes it? How would you go about getting rid of it?


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## Fisherson (Dec 22, 2008)

C4 A6 said:


> *Question*: What is rev hang? Is it good/bad? What causes it? How would you go about getting rid of it?


*Answer: *
Rev hang is a phenomenon that occurs in drive-by-wire equipped, manual transmission cars when the clutch is engaged. Due to various emissions tuning efforts and other programming initiatives (for engines) the engine will decelerate slowly and somewhat unnaturally. For example it might take as much as three seconds for the engine to drop the initial 4-6rpm between shifts; after that first several hundred rpm are passed normal behavior typically returns and the engine decelerates at a more natural speed.

Getting ride of it can be accomplished with tunes and flywheels, as far as I know.


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

"Rev hang" is what some people call it when engine speeds that don't change even after the driver has taken their foot off of the gas pedal and/or when the clutch is disengaged. It is more noticeable in some cars than others. This "rev hang" is programmed into ECUs to aid in the burning off of residual fuel that may accumulate when the throttle is released. "Rev hang" is a lot more noticeable when letting off the gas/disengaging the clutch suddenly at the higher end of the RPM range. "Rev hang" does not cause damage. If the user so desires, there is software out there that minimizes "rev hang" such as Flashpro from Hondata. Anyone that tells you it completely gets rid of "rev hang" doesn't know that rotating assemblies cannot escape Newton's first law of motion (object in motion will stay in motion unless negated by an outside force).


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## robr2 (May 5, 2005)

mawingo said:


> What is considered a car "platform"? Ie., when cars share a platform, what does that mean? I'll hang up and listen.


Further, it also has to do with certain set points for the robotics and handling equipment to work and for windshield rake. Those things aren't easily changed while different models run down the assembly line. As long as those certain parameters are the same, an Explorer can come down the same line as a Taurus.


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

C4 A6 said:


> *Question*: How would you go about getting rid of it?


The old 12v vr6s do this. I ****in' love that about them. I wouldn't get rid of it. :heart:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

So I do some valet at work, and I've gotten to look at a few new Chevy Captivas. Not a bad lil car. The electronic parking brake is an odd phenomenon, though (and YES, you can engage it while moving, ask me how I know... the odd thing is it also engages ABS at the same time). 

About the parking brake though, my question is I've noticed the (P) light stays on even after the car is off and locked. Does it stay on all night or auto-turn off? Why does it stay on at all?


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## Giovanni (May 13, 2000)

Is there a downside to putting too much oil? 
My volvo is always running low. I think it is burning some oil. Instead of checking it all the time is it okay to overfill it to beyond where it says it is okay on the dipstick? I have been putting in that lucas stuff very generously. 
I wonder this same question for other engines too, including a air cooled Wisconsin 4 cylinder VG4D, and other motors in older machinery. I have heard from a mechanic friend of mine that it is no big deal to overfill the oil and he recommends it. thanks


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

No, not one bit. The oil level is specifically chosen to avoid sloshing and splashing of the crankshaft in the oil, which causes foam. Imagine trying to suck the head of a soda through a straw. All the air causes the suction to no longer work, meaning oil will not be pumped properly by the oil pump either. 

Overfilling can also cause oil to enter the breather passages and get into the combustion chamber, which damages the catalytic converter.


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

Overfilling is not advised. If you get too much oil in the pan than what it's designed for you'll start to get contact between the oil in the pan and the crank/rods leading to oil foaming and splashing oil everywhere. In extreme cases, oil foaming can cause cavitation of the oil pump (unlikely in your case) as well as pushing oil out through the breathers (much more likely in your case). In most instances, the extra oil will be pushed out through the breathers after a few good redlines. It's not as critical in farm and antique machinery because the operating speed of these engines is generally much lower which is not as conducive to oil foaming or increased crank pressure as a higher revving engine.


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## Gus Polinski (Jul 20, 2001)

Rob Cote said:


> Usually suspension geometry and, in the case of some FWD cars, subframe components. Also cars sharing a platform typically share the same engine/trans/drive options.
> 
> Example, my Audi A3 is on a mk5 platform. While you could swap suspension components, the shocks are likely damped differently and the springs probably have different spring constants to compensate for the weight difference of the cars while maintaining proper damping of both. In other words, the parts from one will bolt to the other, but it might handle funky. AFAIK, the subframe is identical from one to the other. Additionally, the 2.0T, 3.2 and TDI engines are the "same" from the mk5 to the A3 ("same" because, at a minimum, they have different engine covers/badges) and the transmissions available were a DSG or a 6 speed manual. DSG gave you the AWD option. Does that help?


yes thanks. Still trying to figure out how my 9-3 is related to the Pontiac G6 though :what::laugh:


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## robr2 (May 5, 2005)

mawingo said:


> yes thanks. Still trying to figure out how my 9-3 is related to the Pontiac G6 though :what::laugh:


The 9-3 and the G6 share the Epsilon platform along with the Vectra and Malibu of the early 2000's.


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

robr2 said:


> The 9-3 and the G6 share the Epsilon platform along with the Vectra and Malibu of the early 2000's.


yup

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_Epsilon_platform


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

gambit420s said:


> yup
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_Epsilon_platform


But that doesn't explain exactly what makes them related, and now I have more questions than answers (Fiat Croma is related... how?).


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## Turq (Nov 9, 2001)

VDub2625 said:


> But that doesn't explain exactly what makes them related, and now I have more questions than answers (Fiat Croma is related... how?).


Like other people said, the same platform tends to mean the same basic hardpoints, suspension geometry, things like that. Take for example these two diagrams:

















The first is the front suspension of a G6, the second is of a SAAB 9-3. Notice just how similar they are.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Ok, I figured as much. I still don't understand how similar hard points help assembly, but I don't assemble cars so I'm letting that one go  I get the basic description that the robots on the line aren't capable of certian variances in certian parts of the car. 

Beyond simple rebadging, I'm most familair with VW, which uses the same floor pan parts between the Golf and Corrado, for example (the Corrado aslo shares the engine mounting hard points, and rear beam, with the Golf, but some Passat subsystem components also), and even the arger Passat has almost identical-looking parts, though enlargened for the bigger car. This is the kind of sharing I'm familiar with. In this case, a lot less is shared nowadays DIRECTLY than used to be 10, 20 years ago it seems.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

VDub2625 said:


> In this case, a lot less is shared nowadays DIRECTLY than used to be 10, 20 years ago it seems.



it's actually the opposite.

lots more is shared.

and what you described between the golf/corrado is exactly what platform (and component) sharing is.

the platform is essentially the chassis of the car. everything else gets bolted to it (as has been described here by other users).

by sharing platforms, more of the same components can be shared across various models of cars, allowing for lower production costs. this is why you can take the camry platform and make the camry, lexus ES, lexus RX, etc out from the same platform. in VWs you'll see it as the jetta, golf, tiguan, etc etc.

the extent of platform sharing is not only more widespread than it was in the past, it's getting better because the engineers are getting better and making more flexible platforms that can handle different duties and vehicle types. additionally, the materials and processes to make these more flexible and advanced platforms are improving with every year that goes by.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I suppose what I meant was that the floor pans in a Corrado actually carry the same part number as a Golf (though the tunnel, and rocker panels are different for the differently shaped and sized car). I see newer cars using the same basic layout and design, but minimally different parts for each car (ie. not identical and just pulled off the shelf, but customized for that particular model's needs). Perhaps this is what you mean by better platform sharing, cars that are put together the same but carry more of their own idenity than in years past.


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## Fisherson (Dec 22, 2008)

If you were to swap out an instrument/gauge cluster (at a reputable shop) does that mean you will automatically flag the CarFax for an odometer issue and devalue the car? 

I ask, because I want an IS300 (and the Altezza gauge cluster has the center-mounted tachometer).


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Fisherson said:


> If you were to swap out an instrument/gauge cluster (at a reputable shop) does that mean you will automatically flag the CarFax for an odometer issue and devalue the car?
> 
> I ask, because I want an IS300 (and the Altezza gauge cluster has the center-mounted tachometer).


 only if that shop declares the work done to that VIN.


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## Buickboy92 (Sep 5, 2009)

Anybody know what SUV this is?  










Some kind of Jeep?


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## S0RRY (Aug 12, 2011)

Buickboy92 said:


> Anybody know what SUV this is?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Looks like a Cherokee


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## intercedeGLI (Sep 8, 2002)

From this thread : Question for the ferrari gurus 

_2) PUMP GAS in a Ferrari 250 GTO is the most ridiculous thing i've ever seen, especially since most pump gas is 10% ethanol now. Any real 250 GTO owner would never do this._ 

So uhh...why?


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## Fisherson (Dec 22, 2008)

TwoLitreVW said:


> only if that shop declares the work done to that VIN.


 But does it have to? 
Can't you like, match them?


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

Fisherson said:


> But does it have to?
> Can't you like, match them?


 dont they put a sticker somewhere that gives the mileage at the time of the swap? it it is a reputable shop?


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

Fisherson said:


> If you were to swap out an instrument/gauge cluster (at a reputable shop) does that mean you will automatically flag the CarFax for an odometer issue and devalue the car?
> 
> I ask, because I want an IS300 (and the Altezza gauge cluster has the center-mounted tachometer).


 I know with the cars I am familiar with, digital odo's can only be set once, when they are still brand new. So, if you get a new cluster, and a shop that has the equip to do it. Though I have heard there are less than legal methods that can change digital odometers as well. If you put some random used cluster with a lower mileage, it is very likely to come up as odo fraud.


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

*FV-QR*



Michaelmkiv said:


> i've searched endlessly to find a good explanation (if any) of what timing pull exactly is/means! so i was wondering if someone could please explain what ist means what it does and so on? i'm sure i'm not the only one wondering this


 Pulling timing refers to retarding the moment when a spark plug is fired, this helps control preignition/detonation 

try wiki 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ignition_timing


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## Buickboy92 (Sep 5, 2009)

S0RRY said:


> Looks like a Cherokee


 I think you might be right. :thumbup:


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## patentpending (Aug 10, 2009)

71DubBugBug said:


> dont they put a sticker somewhere that gives the mileage at the time of the swap? it it is a reputable shop?


 Yes. They put a sticker on the drivers door jam with the date, old mileage, and new mileage. As far as i know nothing gets reported to carfax or any agency. Any reputable shop would do it this way. And to the question above, it stands for if i remember correctly


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## Swapped6n (Feb 11, 2010)

Mgfhssdny530 said:


> what does IIRC stand for ::blush::


 If I recall correctly, if I recall correctly.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

Swapped6n said:


> If I recall correctly, if I recall correctly.


 It means "I'm a Spammer, and I'm just trying to get my post count up". 

IASAIJTTGMPCU.


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## MCTB (Dec 30, 2005)

Buickboy92 said:


> Anybody know what SUV this is?


 First generation Isuzu Trooper. Definitely not a Cherokee.


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## Buickboy92 (Sep 5, 2009)

MCTB said:


> First generation Isuzu Trooper. Definitely not a Cherokee.


Haha, shows what I know. :laugh: Thanks. :thumbup::thumbup:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I didn't think this deserved a thread of it's own, so I'll ask here...

I stopped behind a new (refreshed) Tiguan today, that was making a left turn... the red light (brake) was flashing, as VW has been customary to do recently...

THere is CLEARLY an orange section in the tail light, below the red. WHY??


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

With tires in dry conditions, does the tread pattern or directon affect traction? I assume that more rubber/less grooves mean more grip, but all other things equal, would running a directional tire backwards have any effect in the dry?


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## 484 (Feb 10, 2011)

drecian said:


> With tires in dry conditions, does the tread pattern or directon affect traction? I assume that more rubber/less grooves mean more grip, but all other things equal, would running a directional tire backwards have any effect in the dry?


Driving around town and down the highway at 65 mph? Absolutely not.

On the track, at the limit of grip? Need an expert to answer that. I'm not one. But I'm pretty sure any difference is trivial. Personal experience = no difference at autocross speeds.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I would imagine tread in the dry makes no difference since slicks are the grippiest you can get.


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## I_like_waffles (Jun 21, 2012)

monoaural said:


> I know with the cars I am familiar with, digital odo's can only be set once, when they are still brand new. So, if you get a new cluster, and a shop that has the equip to do it. Though I have heard there are less than legal methods that can change digital odometers as well. If you put some random used cluster with a lower mileage, it is very likely to come up as odo fraud.


You can swap digital odometers all you want, you can legally change the mileage. There are places that repair odometers and also can change the mileage to whatever you want, nobody will be able to tell unless you say it or for some stupid reason you make the mileage lower than the last reading on carfax.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

I_like_waffles said:


> You can swap digital odometers all you want, you can legally change the mileage. There are places that repair odometers and also can change the mileage to whatever you want, nobody will be able to tell unless you say it or for some stupid reason you make the mileage lower than the last reading on carfax.


In what state is that legal?


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

drecian said:


> With tires in dry conditions, does the tread pattern or directon affect traction? I assume that more rubber/less grooves mean more grip, but all other things equal, would running a directional tire backwards have any effect in the dry?


During the ROC coverage on Drive, they said they were running treaded tires because the slicks wouldn't heat up in the the two lap heats. If it is more of a compound issue or the smaller tread blocks that allowed it to warm up quicker.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

drecian said:


> With tires in dry conditions, does the tread pattern or directon affect traction? I assume that more rubber/less grooves mean more grip, but all other things equal, would running a directional tire backwards have any effect in the dry?


I imagine it would affect noise and ride quality more than grip. 

But now that I think about it, I wonder if the tread would "splay" differently under braking and cornering (or acceleration, if you ran it backwards). While probably not a big deal, I could imagine it might alter grip in some way.

Take a tread design like this for example. Would the tread splay under acceleration if mounted "backwards"?


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## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

monoaural said:


> During the ROC coverage on Drive, they said they were running treaded tires because the slicks wouldn't heat up in the the two lap heats. If it is more of a compound issue or the smaller tread blocks that allowed it to warm up quicker.


In that case it's most likely the rubber compound. The slicks were probably race tires designed to take a few laps to heat up and then work well for an extended period on track without overheating. A race-rain tire or a street tire is composed of a rubber compound meant to work better at lower temperatures. So if you've only got two laps to put down a good time, you go with the tire that works better cold.


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## I_like_waffles (Jun 21, 2012)

barry2952 said:


> In what state is that legal?


I didn't mean legal, but its easy to do, and nobody would be able to tell if you lowered the mileage on your digital odometer. I work with dealers so I've seen it done. One reason why I won't buy a used car.


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## Dean538 (Dec 19, 2012)

Do they really need to post "No Passing" signs on roads with a double yellow center line?http://www.*******.com/09ht.jpg


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

On roads that are near passing zones, or when that road switches over, yes.

Sent from my face


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I've been in one than more late 00s Mercedes with a push start on the shifter that does nothing. What gives?

Sent from my face


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

I_like_waffles said:


> You can swap digital odometers all you want, you can legally change the mileage. .





I_like_waffles said:


> I didn't mean legal, but its easy to do, and nobody would be able to tell


Waffle, you do.

:thumbdown:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

So its possible toroll back the odo on some cars? That was obvious, lo.

Sent from my face


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## silvermouse5150 (Nov 22, 2003)

When stopped at a red light, I like to keep the clutch down and in gear so the car is ready to go when the light turns green.

Is it better to have the clutch out, and out of gear?
Or is it of very little significance?


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## CostcoPizza (Jan 20, 2008)

VDub2625 said:


> I've been in one than more late 00s Mercedes with a push start on the shifter that does nothing. What gives?
> 
> Sent from my face


Either the battery in the keyfob is dead or you aren't pressing the brake pedal while starting.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

If you want to minimize all wear, shift into neutral. The only wear with your foot on the clutch is in the throw-out bearing, but they're fairly hearty, usually outlasting the clutch disc.


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## Tripicana (Dec 17, 2004)

some people claim it wears out the throwout bearing faster, some people say it wears the thrust surface of the bearing faster. i think legaly/technicaly you are supposed to keep it in gear at stoplights, and no coasting in neutral. sometimes i keep it in gear, sometimes i sit in neutral.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

mac dre said:


> Either the battery in the keyfob is dead or you aren't pressing the brake pedal while starting.


Its a normal fob turn in dash setup, not one of those keyless ignition setups. 07 sl and e55. I saw it in the sl first and assumed it was a replacement shifter until I saw it in the e too.

As for in gear/not at a stop, I prefer neutral because my particular car is well known to send the clutch rod through the thrust plate. I figure, as little as you can wear it, why not try.

I am unaware of any laws against neutral. Source?

Sent from my face


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

Tripicana said:


> some people claim it wears out the throwout bearing faster


Correct. 



Tripicana said:


> some people say it wears the thrust surface of the bearing faster.


I assume you're still referring to the throwout bearing, as if you mean an internal bearing to the transmission, then those people would be wrong. The throwout bearing puts no load on the input shaft of the transmission. Again, I assume you know this, but I wanted to clarify as I read it two ways. :beer:

Early water-cooled VWs had a throwout bearing that could be changed externally, so I wouldn't worry about one of those but on nearly everything else, I don't sit long with my foot on the clutch. It's not like you don't usually have plenty of warning that the light will change soon.


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## Bullethead (Apr 25, 2011)

AFAIK there's no "legal or technical" reason to leave a car in gear with clutch engaged at a stoplight. Or NOT coasting in neutral. :what:

Regarding the OP's scenario, there will be some wear to the throwout bearing, not the clutch. 

Why sit at a light holding your left foot down? Engagement takes just a second.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

VDub2625 said:


> As for in gear/not at a stop, I prefer neutral because my particular car is well known to send the clutch rod through the thrust plate.


Woah, I remember selling those way back when, but I don't remember any stories of the rod going _through_ the plate! Of course, those cars are 25 years older than they were back then, too. :laugh:



VDub2625 said:


> . I figure, as little as you can wear it, why not try.


Agreed 100%


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## Tripicana (Dec 17, 2004)

i meant the thrust surface on the main engine bearings. you press on the clutch, that force gets transfered to another place...engine main bearing thrust surface. usualy oil film keeps it from wearing. some people claim its worse on startup, holding in the clutch on dry bearings with no oil pressure.


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## Tripicana (Dec 17, 2004)

> 1009. Coasting prohibited.
> (1) The driver of any motor vehicle when traveling upon a downgrade shall not coast with the gears or transmission of such vehicle in neutral.
> (2) The driver of a truck or bus when traveling upon a downgrade shall not coast with the clutch disengaged.
> (3) Any person who violates any provision of this section commits a class A traffic infraction.


http://www.coloradodot.info/business/rules/documents/2010_Model_Traffic_Code.pdf

i bet, if you take a driving test in any state, in a manual transmission vehicle, you will fail/get points deducted for coasting, or sitting at a stoplight in neutral.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

Tripicana said:


> i meant the thrust surface on the main engine bearings. you press on the clutch, that force gets transfered to another place...engine main bearing thrust surface. usualy oil film keeps it from wearing. some people claim its worse on startup, holding in the clutch on dry bearings with no oil pressure.


Duh! :banghead:

Yep, It can certainly wear the thrust surface of the mains. :beer:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Air and water do mix said:


> Woah, I remember selling those way back when, but I don't remember any stories of the rod going _through_ the plate! Of course, those cars are 25 years older than they were back then, too. :laugh:


Well, its not a "problem" per se, as you usually change the thrust plate with the clutch, but even after a few hundred miles, mine was starting to show signs of wear. It could be a factor of people not greasing the clutch rod, or installing it backwards (it has one rounded and one slightly pointed end). Also, the rod can bend and peovide a rubbing force when spinning. If your pedal does nothing, its likely gone through :thumbup: (also, people tend to tension the cable so it just provides some pressure... that means they are always in contact, whereas the stock spec is that you leave a 12mm gap from the cable to trans case).



Tripicana said:


> i meant the thrust surface on the main engine bearings. you press on the clutch, that force gets transfered to another place...engine main bearing thrust surface. usualy oil film keeps it from wearing. some people claim its worse on startup, holding in the clutch on dry bearings with no oil pressure.


That makes no sense as most cars from the 90s-on require the clutch to be pushed in at start.

Sent from my face


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## Tripicana (Dec 17, 2004)

i'm not saying its an issue, i said "some people claim"...
some people with trucks with heavy duty clutches do bypass the clutch to start "safety" feature
my car doesn't have to have the clutch in to start, and i usualy dont.


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## CostcoPizza (Jan 20, 2008)

VDub2625 said:


> Its a normal fob turn in dash setup, not one of those keyless ignition setups. 07 sl and e55. I saw it in the sl first and assumed it was a replacement shifter until I saw it in the e too.
> 
> 
> Sent from my face


Mercedes still calls it Keyless Go, if batteries don't fix it, there was a TSB for the system back in the 00's I think.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

VDub2625 said:


> Well, its not a "problem" per se, as you usually change the thrust plate with the clutch, but even after a few hundred miles, mine was starting to show signs of wear. It could be a factor of people not greasing the clutch rod, or installing it backwards (it has one rounded and one slightly pointed end). Also, the rod can bend and peovide a rubbing force when spinning. If your pedal does nothing, its likely gone through :thumbup: (also, people tend to tension the cable so it just provides some pressure... that means they are always in contact, whereas the stock spec is that you leave a 12mm gap from the cable to trans case).


Agreed. I remember selling the plate, bearing, disk and pressure plate to most folks, but occasionally I'd have folks that didn't even bother with the throwout bearing, since it could be so easily replaced and didn't fail often. 




VDub2625 said:


> That makes no sense as most cars from the 90s-on require the clutch to be pushed in at start.


That's a different issue. The thrust bearing would wear, but it wouldn't really be an issue unless your foot was on the clutch for extended periods repeatedly. :beer:


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Air and water do mix said:


> Agreed. I remember selling the plate, bearing, disk and pressure plate to most folks, but occasionally I'd have folks that didn't even bother with the throwout bearing, since it could be so easily replaced and didn't fail often.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I wouldn't worry about that at all as the bearing have side rails. With all the surface area of all the mains, the throwout will wear before the mains.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

mac dre said:


> Mercedes still calls it Keyless Go, if batteries don't fix it, there was a TSB for the system back in the 00's I think.


So you have the option to either key start or button start?

Sent from my face


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## Buickboy92 (Sep 5, 2009)

Does anyone know of a bigger version of this Peerless ad from 1915? & what model?


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## 03GTI4Me (Feb 25, 2003)

double post...


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## 03GTI4Me (Feb 25, 2003)

This has probably already been asked but... 115 pages... 

Can I push start my MKVI Golf TDI if the battery dies?

It is a manual transmission but I honestly have no idea if the same principals that apply to gas engines carry over to diesels in this situation. I mean I know there is no spark but otherwise...

Would it make my HPFP dead?


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

Not sure about TDI's but in general, yes you can push start a Diesel. In fact, many smaller Diesel engines have a crank start with decompression lever as a backup.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Depends on if there's enough power to activate the fuel solenoid, I suppose.


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## I_like_waffles (Jun 21, 2012)

barry2952 said:


> Waffle, you do.
> 
> :thumbdown:


Let me explain, there are places that work on digital odometer, they "fix" them.. it is 100% legal, you can buy an odometer and have the mileage fixed to what your mileage is. 

However, obviously rolling back the miles is illegal, my point is that if its done well you will never know. I see too many cars come to local dealers and leave with less than half the miles.


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

12-19-2012 04:31 AM #3987
Originally Posted by I_like_waffles 
You can swap digital odometers all you want, you can legally change the mileage. .

Originally Posted by I_like_waffles 
I didn't mean legal, but its easy to do, and nobody would be able to tell



I_like_waffles said:


> Let me explain, there are places that work on digital odometer, they "fix" them.. it is 100% legal, you can buy an odometer and have the mileage fixed to what your mileage is.
> 
> However, obviously rolling back the miles is illegal, my point is that if its done well you will never know. I see too many cars come to local dealers and leave with less than half the miles.


If you push any harder you're going to break that backpedal. :laugh: Maybe you have a writing deficiency.:facepalm:


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

Timing Belt Replacement: Replace water pump or not? I've heard not to bother because if the pump isn't leaking by 100,000 miles, it will likely outlast the car. Others seem to say always do it. Car in question is my 2006 Volvo V50 T5.


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## Ubel GLI (Nov 17, 2006)

I usually suggest w/pump with t/belt. Most of my cars have recommended it. I don't know much about Volvo w/pump failures but my logic is if I'm already in there, why not.


----------



## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

See, my thought is...Water pumps either last forever or fail pretty quickly...I have a known good pump now.


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

StormChaser said:


> See, my thought is...Water pumps either last forever or fail pretty quickly...I have a known good pump now.


Change it. Risking a water pump failure turning into a much bigger problem isn't worth it. Besides, it's probably about 5 extra bolts. Don't cheap out!


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

StormChaser said:


> Timing Belt Replacement: Replace water pump or not? I've heard not to bother because if the pump isn't leaking by 100,000 miles, it will likely outlast the car. Others seem to say always do it. Car in question is my 2006 Volvo V50 T5.


I do believe that on the Volvo the pump is spun by the timing belt. I also think Volvo recomends the belt, pump, and tensioner to be done every 75k. It's an interference engine, so don't risk it. Change all 3. It's waaay cheaper than a new turbo 5 cylinder.


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

saron81 said:


> I do believe that on the Volvo the pump is spun by the timing belt. I also think Volvo recomends the belt, pump, and tensioner to be done every 75k. It's an interference engine, so don't risk it. Change all 3. It's waaay cheaper than a new turbo 5 cylinder.


Humm...anyone got a way to check the Volvo records to see if it was already done? She has slightly over 100,000 miles, 1 previous owner, and based on the CarFax entries, it was always dealer serviced...


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

StormChaser said:


> Humm...anyone got a way to check the Volvo records to see if it was already done? She has slightly over 100,000 miles, 1 previous owner, and based on the CarFax entries, it was always dealer serviced...


If you know what dealer it was serviced at, maybe they'd have a record of it by VIN.
Was it a local vehicle?


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

Local vehicle bought at a non-Volvo dealer. No clue where it was serviced. The local Volvo dealer is umm...less than helpful when it comes to being willing to check records. I think they know that if they say something was done, that means I wont pay to do it again. lol


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## MAGICGTI (Jul 3, 2003)

StormChaser said:


> Local vehicle bought at a non-Volvo dealer. No clue where it was serviced. The local Volvo dealer is umm...less than helpful when it comes to being willing to check records. I think they know that if they say something was done, that means I wont pay to do it again. lol


Dave, the carfax will tell you what dealer it was serviced at...


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

MAGICGTI said:


> Dave, the carfax will tell you what dealer it was serviced at...


 Damnit...


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

StormChaser said:


> Local vehicle bought at a non-Volvo dealer. No clue where it was serviced. The local Volvo dealer is umm...less than helpful when it comes to being willing to check records. I think they know that if they say something was done, that means I wont pay to do it again. lol


pm sent.


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## j-teeple (Jan 19, 2012)

This seems like the best place to ask...

I have a 1.8l Golf without AC and yesterday when jacking the car up my jack slipped and crushed my rad and support. I have a friend with a VR6 that's being parted out and I was wondering if the VR rad and support will bolt up in my 1.8L Golf. I understand it's pretty far-fetched but it's the best I've got at the moment as I need to have the car running again by Monday.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

j-teeple said:


> This seems like the best place to ask...
> 
> I have a 1.8l Golf without AC and yesterday when jacking the car up my jack slipped and crushed my rad and support. I have a friend with a VR6 that's being parted out and I was wondering if the VR rad and support will bolt up in my 1.8L Golf. I understand it's pretty far-fetched but it's the best I've got at the moment as I need to have the car running again by Monday.


First off: How in the hell? You shouldn't be jacking by the very front of the car, and how the hell did the jack manage to do that, since they're pretty well-protected by the engine carrier?

Yes, the Mk3 radiator supports are swappable.


----------



## mbp487 (May 14, 2012)

whats the difference between a twin screw supercharger and a centrifugal supercharger? why would one choose one over the other?


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

mbp487 said:


> whats the difference between a twin screw supercharger and a centrifugal supercharger? why would one choose one over the other?


Regarding the differences:

Centrifugal:










Twin Screw:









G-Lader (as seen on VW's G60 engines):


















Not sure which are "better", but I'm guessing it comes down to a preferred balance between lag, power, and reliability.


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

I have a beater DD (with the Aus market Buick 3800) that is slowly leaking oil into the coolant through the intake/valley pan gasket. Oil is clean with no coolant. There is maybe enough oil to form a light film in the coolant reservoir (pressurized header tank) over a week, so I kinda just skim it out every week.

I really can't be bothered replacing the gaskets for now becuase the motor has 250k on it and I get the feeling I'm not going to get it sealed back up and end up chasing vacuum leaks forever. It got a new waterpump and radiator last year, and naturally runs cold (commonly known for having too cold a thermostat from factory), but a lot of the manifold bolts; like the waterpump bolts) go through into the waterjacket and are known to corrode and break off from age.

So say I just keep skimming the oil off the coolant every week and the oil stays clean, what will the additional traces of oil in the coolant do?

P.S. it's a $500 beater I got for the A/C for summer.

:beer:


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## noludoru (May 14, 2009)

StormChaser said:


> Local vehicle bought at a non-Volvo dealer. No clue where it was serviced. The local Volvo dealer is umm...less than helpful when it comes to being willing to check records. I think they know that if they say something was done, that means I wont pay to do it again. lol


Someone already pointed out that the info is on the Carfax, but regarding getting the information from a dealership unwilling to help you: Show up in person. Midday/early afternoon, on a weekday only. They are less busy then. Ask to speak with a service adviser (you'll probably have to wait 10 minutes) and if they wont help you, ask to speak with the service manager. This would definitely work at the dealership I work at, and would probably work elsewhere.

To get the records you can call in, give them the last 6 of the VIN, and ask for records to be printed for you and left at reception for pickup. No need to mention that you're asking for someone else's records.


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

drecian said:


> So say I just keep skimming the oil off the coolant every week and the oil stays clean, what will the additional traces of oil in the coolant do?
> 
> P.S. it's a $500 beater I got for the A/C for summer.
> 
> :beer:


It will cause accelerated degradation of rubber in the system and other longer term issues, but for $500, I wouldn't care, beat it like you stole it.


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## volkstyle (May 11, 2010)

If you want to be a douchebag and rev up your engine, whats the best way to do it as far as not doing any damage? clutch in/out? out of gear?


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

volkstyle said:


> If you want to be a douchebag and rev up your engine, whats the best way to do it as far as not doing any damage? clutch in/out? out of gear?



clutch in or out of gear is essentially the same as you're in neutral and there's no load.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

TwoLitreVW said:


> clutch in or out of gear is essentially the same as you're in neutral and there's no load.


Yeah, the only difference is if the input shaft spins or not, and if the clutch bearings are in use or not, and that doesn't affect anything.


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

saron81 said:


> pm sent.


Replied.

For anyone else that can help me out... I can get the timing belt kit including water pump for about $130. Generally I work with Annapolis Volvo, but they seem to have an attitude about working on cars that weren't bought there. Hell, I have a hard time getting service to even call me back to set an appointment. Based on the CarFax, it was serviced most of the time at Martin's Volvo in Washington, DC. VIN is YV1MW682562188014

Anything you can tell me about the car based on the VIN, please let me know. The big item for me is figuring out when the timing belt is really due (heard different things, 60k, 70k, and 100k) and whether it has already been done or not and when. eace:


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## IC AI (Aug 29, 2008)

I went someplace for lunch in a co-worker's Prius. She said the electric motor disengages around 45mph or so. Is there logic behind this? Electric motors can take very high RPMs. Is also seems silly to have the electric motor shut off at highway speeds, where it could probably be the most beneficial (i.e. a situation in which you are mostly coasting).


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

Reduced parasitic drag?

Q: Approximate how many "book hours" is a timing belt job? Including belt, water pump, tensioner, & idler pulley?

Car in question is my 2006 Volvo V50 T5.


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## Brett92 (Nov 20, 2002)

Always wondered this...

Is there a difference in engine wear between the oil level being at F vs. L on the dipstick?


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

Brett92 said:


> Always wondered this...
> 
> Is there a difference in engine wear between the oil level being at F vs. L on the dipstick?


I'm going to say that as long as it's not over full or under low, the difference in engine wear would probably be insignificant compared to different driing conditions encountered.
Oil has a cooling function, and having more oil would increase the cooling capacity, keeping the oil temps marginally lower, increasing oil life.

I'd say yes, but only in a super controlled environment, and probably not by much.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Brett92 said:


> Always wondered this...
> 
> Is there a difference in engine wear between the oil level being at F vs. L on the dipstick?


No. There might be on a lawn mower engine where there's little oil to begin with, but I doubt there's a quart of oil in actual circulation at any given time.


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## Brett92 (Nov 20, 2002)

barry2952 said:


> No. There might be on a lawn mower engine where there's little oil to begin with, but I doubt there's a quart of oil in actual circulation at any given time.


Thanks Barry, that's what my head was saying (my heart was saying that engines run and last longer when the oil level sits right on Full, as well as being more happy overall). :laugh:


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

barry2952 said:


> No. There might be on a lawn mower engine where there's little oil to begin with, but I doubt there's a quart of oil in actual circulation at any given time.


This, but with one caveat. 

If you're revving high or accelerating quickly, you can draw oil out at a great rate, (or sling it to one side, lowering the level _at the pickup point_) causing a little whirlpool and suck air into the oil pickup. Oil pressure drops at the bearings, when load is highest. It's only a problem if the oil is either lower than a quart, it's a short and wide pan, you're drawing _really_ hard or if it's a low oil capacity engine.


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## 02V-DUB (Dec 23, 2012)

I was looking under my dash because for some reason my speakers arent working ...I came across these 2 wires that seem to be running to ignition...just wondering if anyone knows what they are for ...


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## 02V-DUB (Dec 23, 2012)

Wow sorry for the extremely large pics


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## Broduski (Nov 19, 2008)

StormChaser said:


> Reduced parasitic drag?
> 
> Q: Approximate how many "book hours" is a timing belt job? Including belt, water pump, tensioner, & idler pulley?
> 
> Car in question is my 2006 Volvo V50 T5.


4.3 Hours.


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## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

barry2952 said:


> No. There might be on a lawn mower engine where there's little oil to begin with, but I doubt there's a quart of oil in actual circulation at any given time.



You're right there's not a quart of oil in circulation, but much of the capacity of the sump is to ensure there is always sufficient oil for the pump to pick up under various forces. It is possible to uncover the pickup for the pump in some instances on some vehicles if the level in the pan is low.

If the Miata is a quart low and I stomp on the brakes, I'll see 0 on the OPG. If it's full and I do the same, no change, steady at 30+ psi.

In the Maverick when it's a quart low it will drop pressure on sharp right turns. Naturally this is how I know it's time to add oil.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

*FV-QR*

is european diesel fuel and american diesel fuel the same? will cars from europe run on american diesel and vice versa?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Roadkilled78 said:


> You're right there's not a quart of oil in circulation, but much of the capacity of the sump is to ensure there is always sufficient oil for the pump to pick up under various forces. It is possible to uncover the pickup for the pump in some instances on some vehicles if the level in the pan is low.


Geez, overthinking it much, or just like to argue? You'd have to be three quarts low on a 4 quart engine to expose the pick-up. That's not even what the OP asked.:facepalm:


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## SVTDanny (Aug 8, 2005)

barry2952 said:


> You'd have to be three quarts low on a 4 quart engine to expose the pick-up.


When sitting still on a level surface, maybe. Unfortunately, cars accelerate, decelerate, and go around turns fairly often.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

SVTDanny said:


> When sitting still on a level surface, maybe. Unfortunately, cars accelerate, decelerate, and go around turns fairly often.


You'll note that the OP's question was about whether it was damaging his engine to run it at the low oil mark and the answer is still NO!


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## SVTDanny (Aug 8, 2005)

barry2952 said:


> You'll note that the OP's question was about whether it was damaging his engine to run it at the low oil mark and the answer is still NO!


Driving mindlessly to work and back? It's probably fine.

Running around the autocross circuit on R compounds? It might still be fine, but I wouldn't trust it. All it takes is for part of the pickup to get uncovered for a second for pressure at the bearings to drop, and that's clearly not good.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

SVTDanny said:


> Driving mindlessly to work and back? It's probably fine.
> 
> Running around the autocross circuit on R compounds? It might still be fine, but I wouldn't trust it. All it takes is for part of the pickup to get uncovered for pressure at the bearings to drop, and that's clearly not good.


Once again, that's not what he asked, AT ALL!


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

SVTDanny said:


> Driving mindlessly to work and back? It's probably fine.
> 
> Running around the autocross circuit on R compounds? It might still be fine, but I wouldn't trust it. All it takes is for part of the pickup to get uncovered for a second for pressure at the bearings to drop, and that's clearly not good.


lets just adjust those goal posts for the sake of argument. If my daily commute involves stop light racing F-40's and a run through a loop-da-loop, can i run on low oil?


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## SVTDanny (Aug 8, 2005)

barry2952 said:


> Once again, that's not what he asked, AT ALL!


Let's read the original question again. 



Brett92 said:


> Is there a difference in engine wear between the oil level being at F vs. L on the dipstick?


He doesn't specify what the operating conditions are. That variable changes the chances of engine wear with the dipstick being at "L" considerably.



A.Wilder said:


> lets just adjust those goal posts for the sake of argument. If my daily commute involves stop light racing F-40's and a run through a loop-da-loop, can i run on low oil?


That isn't really "driving mindlessly."


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

SVTDanny said:


> Let's read the original question again.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nonsense. How did you determine that he had a race car. Something in his sig? Something in his comment. Huh?


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## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

Holy smokes, barry. I merely expanded on what you said. Not arguing. Not contradicting you. Not saying you said anything that was incorrect. If the guy is asking a question such as 'will one quart of oil make a difference', he might benefit from a simple explanation of what is going on in the engine under cornering forces, no?

I am sorry if I offended you.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

barry2952 said:


> Nonsense. How did you determine that he had a race car. Something in his sig? Something in his comment. Huh?


Barry, calm down. There's no need to infer anything, it's just a different situation to answer the same question.

FWIW I have run my jetta a quart+ low (the shaded area on the stick is a quart, as is true in most cars, and mine was below that mark), it nearly needs to be off the stick completely (2 quarts) to trigger an oil light on left turns.

On cars with baffles, there is almost always oil on the pickup except when it's nearly empty. 

Basically different situations and different cars have different results.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

A.Wilder said:


> is european diesel fuel and american diesel fuel the same? will cars from europe run on american diesel and vice versa?


anyone?


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## IC AI (Aug 29, 2008)

(Speaking of the electric motor not working above 45mph in the Prius)



StormChaser said:


> Reduced parasitic drag?


Why not have the electric motor run at 65mph, when you are mostly cruising? Electric motors have a very flat power output.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

VDub2625 said:


> Barry, calm down. There's no need to infer anything, it's just a different situation to answer the same question.
> 
> FWIW I have run my jetta a quart+ low (the shaded area on the stick is a quart, as is true in most cars, and mine was below that mark), it nearly needs to be off the stick completely (2 quarts) to trigger an oil light on left turns.
> 
> ...


Once again, that's not what he asked. No car is in danger of anything just a quart low. That's all he asked. A margin of error (on the owner's part) is built into engines.


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## mookieblaylock (Sep 25, 2005)

barry2952 said:


> Once again, that's not what he asked. No car is in danger of anything just a quart low. That's all he asked. A margin of error (on the owner's part) is built into engines.


interesting. My gti was 3/4 qts below the low mark. The rough engine noise i was hearing went away when i added a a quart and a half. Did i imagine this?


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## jlhct (Apr 14, 2004)

I thought of this question and then remembered this thread 

Is there a sweet spot for engine sizes? I mean, There is the VW/Audi 2.0t, Hyundai/Kia 2.0t, GM's 2.0T. Now, besides Ford's 1.6T I hear that GM may be using a 1.6T.

Is it just a simple competition thing or is there a reason why the engine sizes between manufactures is similar.

I hope I explained myself clear enough


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

jlhct said:


> I thought of this question and then remembered this thread
> 
> Is there a sweet spot for engine sizes? I mean, There is the VW/Audi 2.0t, Hyundai/Kia 2.0t, GM's 2.0T. Now, besides Ford's 1.6T I hear that GM may be using a 1.6T.
> 
> ...


In many parts of the world cars are taxed on displacement. 2.0 liter engines will mostly come in just under 2.0 liters, as this is a common break point for taxes. Think 1991cc or so.

There are other factors, such as "advertising numbers", but that's a biggie. :beer:


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

jlhct said:


> I thought of this question and then remembered this thread
> 
> Is there a sweet spot for engine sizes? I mean, There is the VW/Audi 2.0t, Hyundai/Kia 2.0t, GM's 2.0T. Now, besides Ford's 1.6T I hear that GM may be using a 1.6T.
> 
> ...


Dunno if it's exactly what you meant, but a lot of manufacturers round of the displacement to the nearest X.x etc. A '1.8' may really be only 1750cc.

Another reason could be insurance classes in different countries. Say if the threshold for insurance/registration classes was >1.6L with the next class up being 1.6-2L, marketing a 1.7L engine wouldn't be wise as it would attract the higher insurance rates without much benefit (power) over the 1.6L.

Hope that made sense.


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

*FV-QR*

^yup


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_displacement said:


> Taxation of automobiles is sometimes based on engine displacement, rather than the actual power output. Displacement is a basic fundamental of engine design, whereas power output depends a great deal on other factors, particularly on how the car manufacturer has tuned the engine from new. This has encouraged the development of other methods to increase engine power, such as variable valve timing and turbochargers.
> 
> There are four major regulatory constraints for automobiles: the European, British, Japanese, and American. The method used in some European countries, and which predates the EU, has a level of taxation for engines over 1.0 litre, and another at the level of about 1.6 litres. The British system of taxation depends upon vehicle emissions for cars registered after 1 March 2001, but for cars registered before this date, it depends on engine size. Cars under 1549 cc qualify for a cheaper rate of tax.[5]


It can also be reflective of Motorsport regulations for classing


> A - PRODUCTION CAR CLASSES
> 
> 
> B - MODIFIED CARS CLASSES
> ...


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## jlhct (Apr 14, 2004)

Thanks for all of the answers and the great information!:thumbup:


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

mookieblaylock said:


> interesting. My gti was 3/4 qts below the low mark. The rough engine noise i was hearing went away when i added a a quart and a half. Did i imagine this?


There was probably something else wrong with the oiling system. Who would let their car get that low?:screwy:


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## robr2 (May 5, 2005)

IC AI said:


> Why not have the electric motor run at 65mph, when you are mostly cruising? Electric motors have a very flat power output.


Probably because the battery doesn't have the capacity to maintain the high speed for very long.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

barry2952 said:


> Once again, that's not what he asked. No car is in danger of anything just a quart low. That's all he asked. A margin of error (on the owner's part) is built into engines.


So I guess we aren't allowed to add any extra information at all. Strictly answer the question and that's it, eh?



mookieblaylock said:


> interesting. My gti was 3/4 qts below the low mark. The rough engine noise i was hearing went away when i added a a quart and a half. Did i imagine this?


3/4 of a quart, you mean, or 3-4 quarts? 3/4 below the low mark would be almost off the stick in most cars, meaning almsot 2 qts below capacity. The "rough noise" you heard may have been starved lifters tapping away, as they're usually the first to lose oil. They're also the first to get oil when you fill (as most fillers are in the valve cover).



barry2952 said:


> There was probably something else wrong with the oiling system. Who would let their car get that low?:screwy:


Because everyone is perfect.

Barry, I have no idea why you're being so argumentative and defensive in this thread. It's a simple question/answer thread, and I'm loving reading the additional info and informative conversation besides just the strict answer. You need to be calm about it, we don't need pointless argument in here. I'm asking you to please stop it. This is a thread about questions people are afraid to ask, there is no need to belittle them or make them feel stupid, then they will stop asking.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

VDub2625 said:


> So I guess we aren't allowed to add any extra information at all. Strictly answer the question and that's it, eh?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yeah, right. Whatever you say. The question was asked and answered and acknowledged by the OP.


----------



## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

VDub2625 said:


> So I guess we aren't allowed to add any extra information at all. Strictly answer the question and that's it, eh?


Apparently. Good lord, I sincerely regret making that post. Then 5 other people argued about whether I was allowed to.

This is a good thread. I have learned a lot from it and also contributed when I was able. And frankly if the format consists of *1) question 2)answer 3)further expansion on the topic of the original question*, I don't see anything wrong with that. Barry disagrees.

At any rate, let's everyone drop it and carry on before it gets black holed? If a mod is reading this, you're welcome to delete my post #4045 and everything discussing it including this one. :what:


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

OK, I'm done.


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## Egz (May 30, 2002)

Is there an audio benefit to installing a speaker with the cone on the outside, or is it just an appearance thing? I don't think I've seen a photo of a home audio setup with speakers installed opposite of how you normally see them.


----------



## 02V-DUB (Dec 23, 2012)

Noticed bushing was a lil high ....










is this how the shock suppose to sit???


----------



## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

02V-DUB said:


> Noticed bushing was a lil high ....
> 
> 
> 
> ...


From my somewhat limited experience working on friends' VWs, I'm pretty sure that gap is from the strut-top bearing squishing up over time. It's a rubber cone shaped part with a bearing in the middle and since it kinda carries the weight of the car, it compresses over time. From what I remember, they're easy to replace (kinda just sit there) if you're pulling out the strut and aren't too expensive.

The collar/tab thing on the bottom of the strut (where the bolt passes through the gap in the tab) stops the strut from moving if the bolt should come loose, but it's pretty tight in there anyway.

I think...


----------



## GTIVR6MK4 (Sep 14, 2000)

what is the difference between short runners and headers? or its the same part diff word? If there are differences can you show a picture of each?


----------



## 484 (Feb 10, 2011)

'Short runners' is a term usually used to mean short _intake _runners. General rule of thumb is, shorter = hp, longer = torque.

Headers are an _exhaust _component. There are, however, also short and long tube header choices. Same deal. Generally long tube headers make more low to mid range power, short ones make more top end.

Of course there's a lot more to it but that's the gist.

As far as pictures - google image search 'short runner intake' and 'long tube headers' for an example of each. I don't want to hotlink, no time to save, upload, etc.


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## 02V-DUB (Dec 23, 2012)

drecian said:


> From my somewhat limited experience working on friends' VWs, I'm pretty sure that gap is from the strut-top bearing squishing up over time. It's a rubber cone shaped part with a bearing in the middle and since it kinda carries the weight of the car, it compresses over time. From what I remember, they're easy to replace (kinda just sit there) if you're pulling out the strut and aren't too expensive.
> 
> The collar/tab thing on the bottom of the strut (where the bolt passes through the gap in the tab) stops the strut from moving if the bolt should come loose, but it's pretty tight in there anyway.
> 
> I think...




Thanx I appreciate the help


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## s14_sr20_silvia (Feb 26, 2011)

My question is how do you guys get your post counts so high?


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

s14_sr20_silvia said:


> My question is how do you guys get your post counts so high?


Lots of long time posters... some have been here over a decade.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

s14_sr20_silvia said:


> My question is how do you guys get your post counts so high?


lots of free time at work. no work. start at a young age. stick around for years. no girlfriends. general boredom.

lots of reasons, really.


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

s14_sr20_silvia said:


> My question is how do you guys get your post counts so high?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

drecian said:


> From my somewhat limited experience working on friends' VWs, I'm pretty sure that gap is from the strut-top bearing squishing up over time. It's a rubber cone shaped part with a bearing in the middle and since it kinda carries the weight of the car, it compresses over time. From what I remember, they're easy to replace (kinda just sit there) if you're pulling out the strut and aren't too expensive.
> 
> The collar/tab thing on the bottom of the strut (where the bolt passes through the gap in the tab) stops the strut from moving if the bolt should come loose, but it's pretty tight in there anyway.
> 
> I think...


You are right about the mount. But it's not really bad unless it sags a lot. I'm not familiar with Mk4 mounts to know what's really bad, but on earlier cars the gap can be up to a half inch or so. The cap isn't required to touch the tower, it's just bolted on top to keep it from falling out on big bumps and during jacking (they just sit in the strut tower like you said, otherwise).


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## mbp487 (May 14, 2012)

So what's the deal with back pressure? I've heard the term tossed around when it comes to exhausts but I really have no idea what it is/does other than it can affect torque. Why does it affect torque and what modifications increase/decrease back pressure? How do the increases/decreases affect torque?


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## GTIVR6MK4 (Sep 14, 2000)

Are those in the picture below adapters to change the bolt pattern or are they just spacers to push the wheels out for clearance? or a combination of both?


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## 976-RADD (May 29, 2003)

Can't tell from that angle.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

GTIVR6MK4 said:


> Are those in the picture below adapters to change the bolt pattern or are they just spacers to push the wheels out for clearance? or a combination of both?





976-RADD said:


> Can't tell from that angle.




This.

We'd need to see a pic of the mounting face dead on in order to determind if the bolt pattern is wider/smaller.

either way, if it's an adapter, it's also a spacer, as you'll be pushing out the wheel at least as far as the adapter is wide.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

GTIVR6MK4 said:


> Are those in the picture below adapters to change the bolt pattern or are they just spacers to push the wheels out for clearance? or a combination of both?


They could be either. The basic design (with the two bolting faces) is normal for adapters, as of course you have two different lug spacings (and this automatically means it's a spacer too). But, wider spacers generally do this too, because using one lug through the wheel and spacer, as in narrower sets, would mean a lug nut that is too long and unsafe. So wider spacers will generally have a dual pattern set too.


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

mbp487 said:


> So what's the deal with back pressure? I've heard the term tossed around when it comes to exhausts but I really have no idea what it is/does other than it can affect torque. Why does it affect torque and what modifications increase/decrease back pressure? How do the increases/decreases affect torque?


The short answer is most people confuse back pressure with exhaust velocity. For example, putting on an aftermarket exhauset on a naturally aspirated car that's too big in diameter decreases back-pressure, but it also slows down the exhaust. You need velocity to help pull the remaining gasses out of the cylinder. The same could be said on the intake side. The loss in velocity is especially apparent at low revs. See that post a few above mine that talks about short and long runners/headers. That's all about velocity.


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

484 said:


> 'Short runners' is a term usually used to mean short _intake _runners. General rule of thumb is, shorter = hp, longer = torque.


This isn't necessarily true. Often engines with short intakes make similar torque numbers to those with long intake runners, it's just pushed higher up into the powerband, which is why the dyno will display the HP increase. 


mbp487 said:


> So what's the deal with back pressure? I've heard the term tossed around when it comes to exhausts but I really have no idea what it is/does other than it can affect torque. Why does it affect torque and what modifications increase/decrease back pressure? How do the increases/decreases affect torque?


I'm going to quote myself from a bunch of pages back, because I'm conceited:


ravera said:


> You're thinking that torque only refers to power down low. In reality torque is just a unit of force applied (rotationally) while Horsepower is a derived term from how rapidly that force can be applied (hence the RPM value).
> It's about cylinder filling. In an engine there is a short duration of time where both the intake valves and exhaust valves are open at the same time, called overlap. The idea behind this is that the exhaust gasses leaving the chamber will 'pull' some of the intake charge into the cylinder, improving cylinder filling and thus, get a more full intake charge. The problem with that comes in that if there is little enough back pressure, the gasses coming out of the intake tract will actually follow the exhaust charge and you will get unburnt fuel bypassing the whole combustion process altogether. How do you limit this? Slow the exhaust charge down. How do you do that? restrict the exhaust (Create 'backpressure' if you will). In doing so, the idea is that you slow down the charge to a rate of speed such that you completely evacuate the exhaust gasses while allowing the scavenging of the cylinder to allow for the most complete filling of the cylinder possible. When you raise your cylinder filling, you increase your torque at that point.
> 
> Now, where most people get confused (thinking torque is a low rpm value, and horsepower is a high rpm value) is thinking that less back pressure is actually going to reduce torque. An intake and exhaust are a dynamic system, and as such are tuned to specific rpm's, or rpm ranges. So while a restrictive exhaust system will slow down the exhaust flow allowing for full cylinder filling at low RPM's, it will restrict the rate of flow at high rpms. In this instance, the restrictive exhaust does not permit the cylinder to flow the amount of exhaust gasses required to completely evacuate the cylinder of exhaust during that combustion cycle, meaning that the next combustion event will occur with some of the volume of the cylinder pre-filled with spent exhaust gasses. This does not allow for effective cylinder filling and this is why a highly restrictive exhaust will actually see a drop in torque at this high rpm. Concurrently, Horsepower will fall as well.
> ...


Also to add, for most Turbo motors, backpressure is bad. The turbo does just a fine job adding the required backpressure in most instances and any backpressure post turbo is just making the turbo work harder to flow air.


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## Tripicana (Dec 17, 2004)

Back pressure pre turbo is equal to or greater than amount of boost produced.


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

How many gallons of water does a typical modern firetruck hold?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Assle said:


> How many gallons of water does a typical modern firetruck hold?


The vast majority hold next to nothing as they are meant to hook the pumpers up to hydrants. I think the trucks you're thinking of are support trucks called tankers.


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## Assle (Oct 16, 2003)

Damn, should have kept it to one thread. That makes sense that they hook up to a fire hydrant rather than haul water around. So then tankers just carry additional water in case the hydrant runs out of water?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Remote area use, or when there are insufficient hydrant taps for a big fire.


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## kevin splits (Aug 23, 2010)

Have a seat for you to identify what it came out of. Want to see if someone can guess it.


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## Ratfester (Jul 10, 2008)

Not sure how much water exactly, but I believe they are not strictly pumps, they do have water. Also I think there is a difference between "fire truck" and "fire engine". One of them has water and a pump and the other is mainly ladders and support tools etc.


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## kevin splits (Aug 23, 2010)

kevin FaKiN spLits said:


> Have a seat for you to identify what it came out of. Want to see if someone can guess it.


new page bump


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## 2.0T_Convert (Mar 23, 2009)

Two questions:

1) Is 10W-40 oil ok for a 2010 GTI?

- Autozone came up with that weight using the select your vehicle option on the website. I tried bobistheoilguy but the forums there are baffling. Some swear by the stuff others claim it will cause my bearings or whatnot to miss lubrication and tear a hole in the universe. 

2) As part of a combo deal I got a new oil filter but discovered it leaked out some oil while sitting overnight upright in the box... is this normal or did I get a customer return?


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## j-teeple (Jan 19, 2012)

2.0T_Convert said:


> 2) As part of a combo deal I got a new oil filter but discovered it leaked out some oil while sitting overnight upright in the box... is this normal or did I get a customer return?


Can't help with the first one but this is definitely a customer return. Filters are always dry in the box when you buy them.


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

2.0T_Convert said:


> Two questions:
> 
> 
> 2) As part of a combo deal I got a new oil filter but discovered it leaked out some oil while sitting overnight upright in the box... is this normal or did I get a customer return?


It it tan or dark colored? There should be no oil in a new oil filter you purchased to leak out.


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## 2.0T_Convert (Mar 23, 2009)

ravera said:


> It it tan or dark colored? There should be no oil in a new oil filter you purchased to leak out.


Pretty much black.

I'm guessing someone pulled a fast one with a return on a used filter


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

2.0T_Convert said:


> Pretty much black.
> 
> I'm guessing someone pulled a fast one with a return on a used filter


yep


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## Mr. Dew (Mar 26, 2008)

An "engine" or fire truck will have a pump on it, there are multiple style pumps depending on the use. On an engine the lowest amount is commonly around 750gal up to 3,000gal. The smaller tanks are commonly scene in suburban and city areas. Larger tanks are more common in rural areas.

"Trucks" or ladders most often do not carry any water, and if they do it is a very small amount.

"Tankers" can carry any ammount that the rig is set for commonly over 2,000 gal. Tankers can appear to look like an engine.

"Rescue" can look like an engine but usually do not have a pump or tank on them, but any combination is possible. 

Many trucks also carry a foam fire suppression system on them.

"Brush" depends on vehicle rating and also carries a foam system.

Rural areas tend to draft from rivers lakes etc, while suburban areas have more hydrants available for additional water supply. Additionally there is a tanker shuttle consisting of multiple tankers that continually bring water to a dump site where it is then drafted out of a portable pond and can be pumped or relay pumped to where it is needed.

Also you can see a hard sleeve attached to a dry hydrant where a draft does have to be made to obtain water. Some systems need to be pressurized by the county water authority to flow enough water to supply the fire apparatus. Also to note hydrants are painted different colors depending on the ammount of water that they are able to flow not nessacerally the ammount of water psi.


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## Old Windy (Apr 1, 2009)

I know that when you start building or rebuilding an engine, every once in a while a machine shop recommneds the acid bath for the block and all the other nice stuff and I understand the benefits and have expierenced the benefits of such. Now the one I'm trying to understand is when having a engine balanced and blue-printed (not sure of that term but my neighbor extressed that one on his 911 build).

What are the real world benefits of balancing the engine and the real Power gains (measurable if someone has and idea instead of butt dyno). Also any additional benefits to balancing and blue-printing?

:beer:


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## mookieblaylock (Sep 25, 2005)

2.0T_Convert said:


> Two questions:
> 
> 1) Is 10W-40 oil ok for a 2010 GTI?
> 
> ...


that's horrible(2). (1) i have found the 5 40 castrol at autozone


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

2.0T_Convert said:


> 2) As part of a combo deal I got a new oil filter but discovered it leaked out some oil while sitting overnight upright in the box... is this normal or did I get a customer return?


If you watch "How it's Made", or other shows of the genre you will see that there is no oil used in the manufacturing process.

Some slime bag returned a used filter.


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## dylDOH (Apr 28, 2012)

in terms of horsepower, what numbers can I expect to see if I drill a bunch of holes in my back bumper?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

dylDOH said:


> in terms of horsepower, what numbers can I expect to see if I drill a bunch of holes in my back bumper?


None, speed holes won't increase horsepower.:facepalm:


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## Shmi (Mar 25, 2009)

dylDOH said:


> in terms of horsepower, what numbers can I expect to see if I drill a bunch of holes in my back bumper?


I have always learned that the holes themselves don't do anything for your numbers. There is however a parallel connection between your belief in the holes, and their effects. This is why if you dyno the car, the numbers don't change, because someone else is doing the dyno and they don't believe in it. 

The simple formula is as follows:

G = F * A

Where: 
G = HP gains, 
A = total combined area of each hole, and 
F = the total of your faith, defined as (T * Δr)/100, where T = time spent thinking/praying about and Δr = the difference between resting heart rate and thinking/praying heart rate.

For example, solve for F: if you have a 10-second car and are doing a 1/4 mile, and thinking about the holes the whole time, and your heart rate increases by 20 bpm as you put your faith in your holes, (10 * 20)/100 = 2. Solving for G=FA, if you have a total area of 9cm squared, just plug in your faith variable, and your gains equal 2(9cm^2), then you discard the cm^2 portion because this is all just bull**** anyway, and you get 2 * 18, which is 36HP. A modest gain.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Shmi said:


> F = the total of your faith, defined as (T * Δr)/100, where T = time spent thinking/praying about and


:laugh:


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## dylDOH (Apr 28, 2012)

Shmi said:


> I have always learned that the holes themselves don't do anything for your numbers. There is however a parallel connection between your belief in the holes, and their effects. This is why if you dyno the car, the numbers don't change, because someone else is doing the dyno and they don't believe in it. .




Is that also why when I clean and detail my car, it always feels faster?

So its all in my head I guess, I always just thought that all the dirt and grime I took off resulted in some weight reduction and better aero-dynamics...thanks for the quick response it all makes sense to me now:beer::wave:


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

dylDOH said:


> So its all in my head


Yep.


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## dylDOH (Apr 28, 2012)

barry2952 said:


> Yep.


okay now so when I am drilling these holes, do they need to be a certian size for your formula to work? Also the chrome trim that I see outlining those holes, they look like exhaust manifold gaskets, is there a JDM version I can overnight from japan? Are the ones on ebay JDM?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Are you serious?


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## dylDOH (Apr 28, 2012)

barry2952 said:


> Are you serious?


No, not at all, I always did wonder though if they actually did reduce any drag


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

dylDOH said:


> No, not at all, I always did wonder though if they actually did reduce any drag


Asked and answered.


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## mbp487 (May 14, 2012)

ravera said:


> epic explanation of back pressure


Damn that was thorough, thanks :thumbup: :beer:


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## helement2003 (Aug 3, 2004)

This may have been asked before in the thread...but I'm not searching :laugh:

Is 55mph still the most efficient speed, ala the 1980's speed limit?


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

helement2003 said:


> Is 55mph still the most efficient speed, ala the 1980's speed limit?


Actually, the most efficient (mpg) speed is slower than 55mph, in the highest possible gear, with the caveat that you do not lug the engine. 
(Lugging the engine is not simply RPM based, it is load based. One can travel at 1000 RPMs without lugging the engine, on flat ground, of course)
In a situation like that, you can expect to see 2-3 times your highway fuel economy.

However.... this efficiency suffers from a law of diminishing returns, in that it would take you far too long to get anywhere, and you'd be bored to death.


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## kevin splits (Aug 23, 2010)

helement2003 said:


> This may have been asked before in the thread...but I'm not searching :laugh:
> 
> Is 55mph still the most efficient speed, ala the 1980's speed limit?


Officially probably. I have always had the best fuel efficiency at 62mph


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Surf Green said:


> Actually, the most efficient (mpg) speed is slower than 55mph, in the highest possible gear, with the caveat that you do not lug the engine.
> (Lugging the engine is not simply RPM based, it is load based. One can travel at 1000 RPMs without lugging the engine, on flat ground, of course)
> In a situation like that, you can expect to see 2-3 times your highway fuel economy.
> 
> However.... this efficiency suffers from a law of diminishing returns, in that it would take you far too long to get anywhere, and you'd be bored to death.


I will add that the gearing, of course, is a big factor in the "exact" most efficent speed, as that varies between cars (and an engine's sweet spot differs, too). But as you said, the highest gear just at the point of not lugging is best.

I have done an experiment, on my last tank of gas, where I tried 60, 55, 45, etc to see which was most efficient. in my car, 55-60 was actually pretty much the sweet spot. I tried the highest gear always, too, (ie I was lugging the engine), and I didn't see any benefits, in fact the economy (as reported by the cluster, which measures load and speed to calculate MPG) indicated lower mpg than if I had been in a higher gear.


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

*Question*: Does the direction of rotation of a tire with a specific tread pattern affect performance?

Example:

For the Bridgestone Potenza RE760 Sports, the "direction" of the tread when mounted on the left or right side is different.

Mounted on driver side (rotating towards you):










Mounted on passenger side (rotating towards you):










I feel like it would matter, right?


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## SpecificationR (Jun 4, 2009)

Going thru a recent summit racing catalog, i noticed ALL the cat-back exhausts for domestic applications are slip fit and was wondering why? and on the opposite coin, why are japanese aftermarket system never slip fit?


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## iheartphaetons (Dec 5, 2008)

Why does going into reverse gear lift the back end of my 1973 Mercedes?


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## SpecificationR (Jun 4, 2009)

tire question - i always wondered that as well, especially when i had a set of those RE760's as well as these..


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

iheartphaetons said:


> Why does going into reverse gear lift the back end of my 1973 Mercedes?


If you mean why the front end dips its the same as when you accelerate. Physics.


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## AKOEuro (Nov 14, 2009)

kevin fakin splits said:


> have a seat for you to identify what it came out of. Want to see if someone can guess it.


c63 amg


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## iheartphaetons (Dec 5, 2008)

mellbergVWfan said:


> If you mean why the front end dips its the same as when you accelerate. Physics.


When stopped, in park. If I put the gear selector into reverse, the rear end lifts a solid 3-4 inches, before I set off.


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

iheartphaetons said:


> When stopped, in park. If I put the gear selector into reverse, the rear end lifts a solid 3-4 inches, before I set off.


Might be a hydraulic suspension feature. But it sounds like it could be a sign of something wrong, check here. 

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum...ge-diagram-anyone-1976-280c-lost-reverse.html


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Auto right? There's a constant small force on the wheels when stopped, in gear, in an auto (what causes creep, and what the brakes are fighting against). Sounds Luke you may have no rear brakes. Try that with the e-brake on (if you're sure it works). It probably does it in D too, but less noticeably as suspension is easier topull than compress.

Sent from my face


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## pmanpop (Jun 25, 2010)

First day of school had me thinking. Im going to have to start parking all the way at the top of a structure that has about 6 killler speed bumps per level. I had to park at level 7. So that is 42 speed bumps total that i have to clutch in-neutral-clutch out. My rpms never go above 1k when using the clutch. Should i be worried about killing the clutch if i have to do this once a week? My car is 2011 gti with no motor mods, but we all know the clutches aren't strong at all o these cars.
Should i be worried about killing the clutch if i have to do this once a week?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

ou'll be fine, just make sure the engagement is smooth, no unnecessary slippage. 

I have a few questions: 

1. How come cars aren't painted with electrostatic charging? I believe the OEMs use it, but why not aftermarket paint jobs? 

2. If I wanted to make an invisible warning light strip, how would I go about that? Where could I find smoked, transparent plastic, and how would I print out the icons to be seen through, screen printing? I'd need a transparent color for a base, and then a solid color for the icons? Any ideas?


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## 02V-DUB (Dec 23, 2012)

so i Bought my gti a couple a months ago now and the speakers were not working from the start i figured maybe the aftermarket cd player wasnt wired correctly so i rewired everything and still no sound so i went to the speakers themselves and has no obvious damage i did however notice that the amp in the back isnt there ( which i didnt know it came with one) My question is does it need the amp in order for speakers to work ??


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## Neezy13 (Jun 1, 2011)

02V-DUB said:


> so i Bought my gti a couple a months ago now and the speakers were not working from the start i figured maybe the aftermarket cd player wasnt wired correctly so i rewired everything and still no sound so i went to the speakers themselves and has no obvious damage i did however notice that the amp in the back isnt there ( which i didnt know it came with one) My question is does it need the amp in order for speakers to work ??


 If it had the Monsoon system then it should have had an amp in the trunk. All of the speakers are run off the amp so if it's missing that could explain why your speakers aren't working. There should be two harnesses, one with the wires coming from the head unit and one with the wires going to the speakers. You should be able to splice the speaker wires from the harnesses together but you'll need a wiring diagram to know what's what.

If the amp was just taken out, then your speakers aren't even hooked up unless it was rewired.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk


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## 02V-DUB (Dec 23, 2012)

Neezy13 said:


> If it had the Monsoon system then it should have had an amp in the trunk. All of the speakers are run off the amp so if it's missing that could explain why your speakers aren't working. There should be two harnesses, one with the wires coming from the head unit and one with the wires going to the speakers. You should be able to splice the speaker wires from the harnesses together but you'll need a wiring diagram to know what's what.
> 
> If the amp was just taken out, then your speakers aren't even hooked up unless it was rewired.
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk


 


thanx for the advice the amp was taken out and looks like PO tried splicing or adding another amp either way thanx for the input


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

How come big radiators are bad in the cold? I mean, there's a thermostat, that cuts off the radiator completely when the engine is too cold. Once it warms up, the thermostat lets a tiny bit of cold coolant from the radiator into the engine, enough that it balances and the thermostat tightens up again when the coolant gets to the lowest temperature allowable. 

If it were so cold that the thermostat didn't have to open, or didn't open much, how would this cause a very cold engine? The coolant in the radiator would stay in the radiator, cold, and the engine would warm itself up, and the thermostat would send in cold water as needed. No?


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

C4 A6 said:


> *Question*: Does the direction of rotation of a tire with a specific tread pattern affect performance?
> 
> Example:
> 
> ...





SpecificationR said:


> tire question - i always wondered that as well, especially when i had a set of those RE760's as well as these..


 Still hasn't been answered


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## Diamond Dave (Mar 24, 2001)

VDub2625 said:


> 1. How come cars aren't painted with electrostatic charging? I believe the OEMs use it, but why not aftermarket paint jobs?


 Cost is the primary reason. The technology is expensive, but so is the pass through cost to the customer. 




VDub2625 said:


> How come big radiators are bad in the cold?


 I don't know that they are inherently bad. A poor solution of anti-freeze in winter is bad. parking outdoors in sub-zero temps is rough on the cooling system because the air running through the radiator is so cold that the coolant takes much longer to get to operating temperature (if ever). That's why you see people blocking off their radiator by putting cardboard in front of the grill.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Hmm. I remember back in high school they repainted our lockers with electrostatic paint. It was a fantastic job, they went from tan to blue with absolutely no overspray. I had been thinking since then it would be perfect for a car


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

C4 A6 said:


> Still hasn't been answered


 Short answer is, on asymmetric tires (vs directional tires) it does not matter. Now exactly why it does not matter I can not say, as that lays in the science of tread design. There is only one mold, and as long as the outside I'd on the outside, they are designed to have the same characteristics (or at least neglible differences) either way


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## SCHWAB0 (Dec 6, 2004)

rs4-380 said:


> Short answer is, on asymmetric tires (vs directional tires) it does not matter. Now exactly why it does not matter I can not say, as that lays in the science of tread design. There is only one mold, and as long as the outside I'd on the outside, they are designed to have the same characteristics (or at least neglible differences) either way


 you would think the way it threads water "out" would make a difference ... I would think that the groves are designed for the tire at speed to disperse the water out, in order to obtain maximum grip. If you reversed the rotation of the tire i.e. groves facing a different direction, it would not be as effective, just IMHO. 

Who knows really.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

When Toyota commercials claim that "over 90% of Toyotas sold in New England since 1990 are still on the road" (as stated in their regional advertising here), where does that info come from? The DMV? is this kind of info publicly available and searchable? ie. can one find out how many cars are still registered with the DMV for particular models and years? Colors?


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

brakedust said:


> Who knows really.


 The tire companies. I'm sure they've done extensive testing and realized the difference is so minimal it would never be noticed. They design the tread so it will function either in either rotating direction. It's not an afterthought like they forgot to make left side tires. As you said most grooves are designed to siphon water out, and if you look at the angles of the grooves they aren't all the same direction.


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## gsprobe (Jan 29, 2006)

Egz said:


> Is there an audio benefit to installing a speaker with the cone on the outside, or is it just an appearance thing? I don't think I've seen a photo of a home audio setup with speakers installed opposite of how you normally see them.


 This is complicated, and I was hoping someone else would tackle it. But I got to the bottom of the page and saw no responses... So here goes: 

There is much more than apperance going on here. Some subwoofer speakers are designed to be installed in small boxes, others in larger boxes, and some in no boxes. To truly blow your mind, that dude in the pic might have subs mounted facing the 2 you see face down on the rear shelf there. You wire them in reverse "polarity??" so that when the bottom sub pushes up, the top one pushes in the same direction with the added force from the one underneath, thus producing more bass but requiring no more space. Also remember that pushing bass waves ( which are low frequency-- cycles per second-- and non directional ) into an enclosed space amplifies the sound. :beer:


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## 330iZHP (Nov 14, 2006)

brakedust said:


> you would think the way it threads water "out" would make a difference ... I would think that the groves are designed for the tire at speed to disperse the water out, in order to obtain maximum grip. If you reversed the rotation of the tire i.e. groves facing a different direction, it would not be as effective, just IMHO.
> 
> Who knows really.


 so does this mean with asymetrical tires we can swap from side to side? Without dismounting from rim to swap side to side???


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

Egz said:


> Is there an audio benefit to installing a speaker with the cone on the outside, or is it just an appearance thing? I don't think I've seen a photo of a home audio setup with speakers installed opposite of how you normally see them.





gsprobe said:


> This is complicated, and I was hoping someone else would tackle it. But I got to the bottom of the page and saw no responses... So here goes:
> 
> There is much more than apperance going on here. Some subwoofer speakers are designed to be installed in small boxes, others in larger boxes, and some in no boxes. To truly blow your mind, that dude in the pic might have subs mounted facing the 2 you see face down on the rear shelf there. You wire them in reverse "polarity??" so that when the bottom sub pushes up, the top one pushes in the same direction with the added force from the one underneath, thus producing more bass but requiring no more space. Also remember that pushing bass waves ( which are low frequency-- cycles per second-- and non directional ) into an enclosed space amplifies the sound. :beer:


 I meant to reply to this earlier, but it slipped my mind 
I believe there is a benefit to cone out. On the magnet side of the speaker, the cone area is smaller, because there is a voice coil attached to it. You can think of a subwoofer as a piston, and think of the bass as compression. Bigger piston in same size air cavity(car) means more air pressure, or bass. 

Of course, you can gain at least 10dbs with those chrome baskets visible.


----------



## gsprobe (Jan 29, 2006)

VDub2625 said:


> When Toyota commercials claim that "over 90% of Toyotas sold in New England since 1990 are still on the road" (as stated in their regional advertising here), where does that info come from? The DMV? is this kind of info publicly available and searchable? ie. can one find out how many cars are still registered with the DMV for particular models and years? Colors?


 As I too always wondered how chevrolet can claim "best built longest running trucks on the market" and base that on the RL POLK listed in the disclaimer. It is legal in advertising to make boastful claims and obvious hyperbole. But I want some evidence.


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## 02V-DUB (Dec 23, 2012)

SO i been reading on BOV vs DV and none really seem to hit this ..i bought the car as is and now im trying to figure what the previous owner did to the car i saw that it still has the DV and the BOV ( this is my first turbo car) so I dont know much on turbos... Any info would help overall i want to go back to DV and i want to purchase all new pipping.. Does any one know what previous owner tried doing ?? i tried to contact him direct but number is no longer active ...car does run a bit rich and is throwing a few CEL codes 
blow off valve and if you see carefully in the background the DV 




























sorry for the night shots didnt have time to take them in during the day


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

*FV-QR*

Basically a diverter valve is just a BOV that returns air back to the intake before the turbo, and after the MAF. What you have there is an unplumbed DV which acts as a BOV, just releasing the pressurized intake air into the atmosphere, making the engine run very rich when the DV opens, causing you to throw your codes. A quick fix would be to flip that DV around and run a pipe between there and somewhere on the intake between the turbo and the MAF


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## 02V-DUB (Dec 23, 2012)

^^^ Thanx For the insight ..will do


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

*FV-QR*

Wait, just saw the last pic... The black one with your hand on it is the factory DV. If it's still attached (pressure side to the inlet side of the turbo, just block off the other BOV. I cant imagine why he's running both.


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## 02V-DUB (Dec 23, 2012)

ravera said:


> Wait, just saw the last pic... The black one with your hand on it is the factory DV. If it's still attached (pressure side to the inlet side of the turbo, just block off the other BOV. I cant imagine why he's running both.



Yea exactly Wat I was thinking. , I started doing the research and saw that I had both ..starting to believe that the guy who owned it didn't know what he was doing


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## SVTDanny (Aug 8, 2005)

Looks like your DV is disconnected on the one side, so it's acting as a bypass for the MAF, causing your troubles. Whoever did this was an idiot.


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## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

Not sure if this has been asked within the last 119 pages (!), but why is it that many Hondas that are modded to some degree (exhaust, etc..) have what looks like the richest exhaust soot cloud smothered on their rear bumper. I can't find a pic, but this can't be just GA thing. Is everyone doing a common cheap mod for increasing fuel? Just curious. I don't notice it on VWs, just the Hondas.


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## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

How did this happen?


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

330iZHP said:


> so does this mean with asymetrical tires we can swap from side to side? Without dismounting from rim to swap side to side???


Yes. I do this all the time with street and track tires alike.


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

Smigelski said:


> How did this happen?


I can't remember off hand but it was the motor or something letting go and the smoke was fuel/oil/whatever that was shot out the motor and just smoking until it got to the right 'mixture' to flame up.

I could be wrong...


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Yeah looks like the exhaust was shooting out puffs of still-burning fuel and/or oil.


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## kevin splits (Aug 23, 2010)

:thumbup:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

This is question, what, 3 in a row, that may not get answered, but here goes...

Projectors. Are all created equal? it seems pretty simple. A bulb holder, menial reflector, cutoff, and lens. Seems like they are all the same (barring moveable cutoff designs). So, if I wanted to retrofit projector lenses into a reflector housing (that has a clear face, don't worry), it's as simple as cutting and pasting? Where can one purchase generic projector housings, and do they come in all sizes?


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

VDub2625 said:


> This is question, what, 3 in a row, that may not get answered, but here goes...
> 
> Projectors. Are all created equal? it seems pretty simple. A bulb holder, menial reflector, cutoff, and lens. Seems like they are all the same (barring moveable cutoff designs). So, if I wanted to retrofit projector lenses into a reflector housing (that has a clear face, don't worry), it's as simple as cutting and pasting? Where can one purchase generic projector housings, and do they come in all sizes?


I do not believe you can. From seeing ebay projectors to s2000 and tsx and lexus projectors, there are big differences in light output, cutoff and such. TheRetrofitSource (TRS or morimito) sells various levels of projectors.
I have a _feeling_ the lens is a large part of the cost of the projector, and the most important, and the reflector is the second most important part. And I would ass_u_me that the reflector has to be designed for a projector, and would not work correctly if you just threw a lens in front of a standard h4 drop in upgrade.


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## Horror Business (Mar 1, 2005)

C4 A6 said:


> *Question*: Does the direction of rotation of a tire with a specific tread pattern affect performance?
> 
> Example:
> 
> ...


These are called asymmetric tires. And yes it does matter which way the tread rolls.

Generally they are marked "outside" on one side of the tire. If there is no indicator for mounting then you should probably ask the manufacturer.


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## DerSpiegel (Jun 20, 2008)

Smigelski said:


> How did this happen?


On somebody's computer using video creation software. No way that's real.

Please don't make me take the time to explain the dozen reasons why


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## Quinn1.8t (Oct 8, 2006)

Horror Business said:


> These are called asymmetric tires. And yes it does matter which way the tread rolls.
> 
> Generally they are marked "outside" on one side of the tire. If there is no indicator for mounting then you should probably ask the manufacturer.


You seem to contradict yourself a bit here, so I just want to clear it up. Only on directional tires does it matter which way the tire is rolling. Asymmectic tires do not care which way they are rolling, as long as the "outside" of the tire is facing out on the vehicle.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

DerSpiegel said:


> On somebody's computer using video creation software. No way that's real.
> 
> Please don't make me take the time to explain the dozen reasons why


"FAKE. But don't ask me why I say that, just believe me."

:screwy:


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## DerSpiegel (Jun 20, 2008)

VDub2625 said:


> "FAKE. But don't ask me why I say that, just believe me."
> 
> :screwy:


Heavy handed shadowing, puffs holding perfect shape, some of the puffs traveling upward, etc. etc. etc.

FFFFUUUUUUUU :laugh:


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

So maybe I'm really retarded, I thought I had a good understanding of how an alignment works. I just went in to get one on the front end of my Jeep. I asked if it's an issue that I have a lift kit installed. I figured it'd be fine, I just didn't want any surprises. The guy at the counter told me that the lift manufacturer should have supplied alignment specification because he can only adjust it to OE specs. He went on to say that if it were aligned to OE, it would cause wear issues. I turned around and walked out. Am I missing something fundamental, or was he blowing smoke? I've installed many aftermarket suspensions in all types of cars and I've never seen any alignment spec supplied.


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## Quinn1.8t (Oct 8, 2006)

The toe is still adjustable to factory specs, since the lift kit doesn't change that. The caster won't be at factory specs, unless you have cam bolts for the control arms.

And camber isn't adjustable on TJs, unless you have aftermarket ball joints. 

So yes, just go somewhere else for your alignment.


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

Quinn1.8t said:


> The toe is still adjustable to factory specs, since the lift kit doesn't change that. The caster won't be at factory specs, unless you have cam bolts for the control arms.
> 
> And camber isn't adjustable on TJs, unless you have aftermarket ball joints.
> 
> So yes, just go somewhere else for your alignment.


97s actually do have caster adjustment. The only year it was a thing on TJs, AFAIK. Correct on the camber comment, however, if it was adjustable, they'd put it to OE specification, right? And toe was really my main concern since I put in a new steering link and I'm getting some bump steer. Anyways, its reassuring I'm not off my rocker.


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## Quinn1.8t (Oct 8, 2006)

Rob Cote said:


> 97s actually do have caster adjustment. The only year it was a thing on TJs, AFAIK. Correct on the camber comment, however, if it was adjustable, they'd put it to OE specification, right? And toe was really my main concern since I put in a new steering link and I'm getting some bump steer. Anyways, its reassuring I'm not off my rocker.


Yeah, you're right, if you still are running stock arms with the cam bolts, caster will have a limited amount of adjustment, which may or may not be enough depending on how much lift you are running.

But yes, toe is absolutely still adjustable and won't change with the lift.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Rob Cote said:


> The guy at the counter told me that the lift manufacturer should have supplied alignment specification because he can only adjust it to OE specs.


They sometimes say that as a sort of disclaimer, as was mentioned, some things that can't be adjusted will now show off-spec, and sometimes the things you can adjust won't fall into the OE range, so they get it "close enough". 

My VW has no caster adjustment and the specs are way off OEM, even though it's not supermegalowdroppedyo. Camber can sometimes be hard to egt too, unless you have the narrow "accident" camber adjusting bolts.


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

Does caster even REALLY matter? I can see it being important in a track car, for obvious reasons, but this is a lifted Wrangler with 33s :laugh: Not much of a cornering machine.

Anyway, thanks for the input. I'll be going elsewhere that doesn't try to feed me a line of jargon.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Rob Cote said:


> I'm getting some bump steer.





Rob Cote said:


> Does caster even REALLY matter?


Why, yes, actually, as it can cause bump steer.

"Caster" is the angle of the strut. Imagine a caster wheel (shopping cart wheel). notice how they're angled? Notice how they ALWAYS want to spin around so the angle is forward? Car suspension is usually castered backwards a tad, to promote return-to-center, etc. When the caster is off, or mismatches, you either lose return-to-center (steering feel), or you get a wheel that wants to spin around the axis of the strut on bumps, like a caster wheel. This is especially noticeable if the caster does not match side to side.

At least that's how I was explained it.


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## 92skirmishgti (Sep 5, 2005)

^ That, and a misaligned Jeep with bigger tires will be a lot more likely to get death wobble.


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## Diamond Dave (Mar 24, 2001)

VDub2625 said:


> Projectors. Are all created equal? it seems pretty simple.


Projectors are optics. If your assessment were accurate anyone could wear anyone else's eyeglasses. 

The projectors in each car are different, the HID controllers are different, and the bulbs are different.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Diamond Dave said:


> Projectors are optics. If your assessment were accurate anyone could wear anyone else's eyeglasses.
> 
> The projectors in each car are different, the HID controllers are different, and the bulbs are different.


Well, eyeglasses adjust for deficiencies in the eye. Projectors pretty much take a point of light (however the socket is set up for whichever bulb) and project it out lineally. It's much different than a reflector setup (where every part of the reflector projects light into a specific area) or eyeglasses (where the light is bent to match the deficiencies of the eye). 

At least that's how I see it. I have worked with projector fog lights before, and everything seemed pretty generic, with no particular pattern set up in the projector lens. 

Although, I do understand that different bulbs and lighting types (halogen vs. HID, for example), might require a different projector, or at the minimum, reflector, my main concern was if projector lights were as prone to bad design as reflector lights are (ie. sharp vs. fuzzy cutoffs, dim output, etc).


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

VDub2625 said:


> Why, yes, actually, as it can cause bump steer.
> 
> "Caster" is the angle of the strut.


So how is caster measured in a solid axle setup? And again, why wouldn't OEM specification for caster work here? Other than it may not be possible within the limits of the hardware to attain it.


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## KevMo615 (Dec 22, 2010)

Is it bad to rest your foot on the clutch pedal? Not really thinking, sometimes I will rest my left foot on the clutch pedal when just cruising at highway speed, seems like it's just the weight of my foot (roughly enough to take up the free play). Is this doing anything bad to my clutch/TO bearing?


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## SVTDanny (Aug 8, 2005)

KevMo615 said:


> Is it bad to rest your foot on the clutch pedal? Not really thinking, sometimes I will rest my left foot on the clutch pedal when just cruising at highway speed, seems like it's just the weight of my foot (roughly enough to take up the free play). Is this doing anything bad to my clutch/TO bearing?



I rest my foot on the clutch pedal all the time. It can wear on your throwout bearing if you're putting enough pressure on it. I doubt you are, though.


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

Rob Cote said:


> So how is caster measured in a solid axle setup? And again, why wouldn't OEM specification for caster work here? Other than it may not be possible within the limits of the hardware to attain it.


AFAIK castor is only applicable to the steering wheels, so on a solid fron axle setup, the castor is built into the axis that the knuckle rotates/steers. With a lift kit, new leaves/shackles/lift blocks may rotate the whole axle, taking with it any castor settings.


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

drecian said:


> AFAIK castor is only applicable to the steering wheels, so on a solid fron axle setup, the castor is built into the axis that the knuckle rotates/steers. With a lift kit, new leaves/shackles/lift blocks may rotate the whole axle, taking with it any castor settings.


Correct. However, my lower control arms attach to the axle with cam bolts, so there is adjustment at that connection. My question I feel like still hasn't been answered. Aside from hardware limiting the physical possibility of getting within OEM alignment specification, (why) would you want to align it to a different specification?


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## kevin splits (Aug 23, 2010)

:beer:


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## redshift (May 22, 2002)

VDub2625 said:


> Well, eyeglasses adjust for deficiencies in the eye. Projectors pretty much take a point of light (however the socket is set up for whichever bulb) and project it out lineally. It's much different than a reflector setup (where every part of the reflector projects light into a specific area) or eyeglasses (where the light is bent to match the deficiencies of the eye).
> 
> At least that's how I see it. I have worked with projector fog lights before, and everything seemed pretty generic, with no particular pattern set up in the projector lens.
> 
> Although, I do understand that different bulbs and lighting types (halogen vs. HID, for example), might require a different projector, or at the minimum, reflector, my main concern was if projector lights were as prone to bad design as reflector lights are (ie. sharp vs. fuzzy cutoffs, dim output, etc).


Projector-type lenses are another approach to controlling glare. They do a great job at reducing light output in places where you don't want it, however, they aren't any better than a _well-designed_ reflector at putting light where you _do_ want it.

Reflectors can only control glare by reflecting the light produced by a point source such as a glowing filament in the designed area. They need to be very precisely designed and built to avoid reflecting it outside of the designed area. Projectors have an easier time at this task. Any light that isn't reflected into the precise designed area is just blocked. That's why projectors generally have a very sharp cutoff line at the top of a beam. A reflector can do that as well, but the design and execution have to be very good for that to happen. Badly-designed reflectors scatter light all over the place. Projectors can be badly designed as well, but the glare is more easily controlled. Thus, they can have a less-than-optimal beam pattern, but will still have that nice sharp cutoff because of the blocking.

All in all, a well-designed reflector is better at putting every available lumen from a light source where you want it. Projectors are easier to control glare with, but they waste light in the process. However, when you're pumping 3 or 4 times the lumen output with an HID capsule, the trade-off is usually favorable.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Thank you, that was extremely helpful :thumbup:

The main reason for the question was I found a set of ****ty accord apc headlights in the junkyard, but they had nice large main projector beams. I'd love to cut and paste them into my cabrio's headlights (mk4 clear lens), but didn't know if them being some **** aftermarket part meant a bad pattern like a **** aftermarket reflector. 

There was a thread here a while ago about projector retrofits that gave me the idea.

Sent from my face


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## Diamond Dave (Mar 24, 2001)

VDub2625 said:


> At least that's how I see it. I have worked with projector fog lights before, and everything seemed pretty generic,


It's an analogy about glass and optics. Projectors are designed/shaped/created with the intent of refracting light. Just because you "see it" as everything being generic doesn't mean an optics engineer hasn't spent months testing and designing optics that aim/direct/throw light to specific positions on the road.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Diamond Dave said:


> It's an analogy about glass and optics. Projectors are designed/shaped/created with the intent of refracting light. Just because you "see it" as everything being generic doesn't mean an optics engineer hasn't spent months testing and designing optics that aim/direct/throw light to specific positions on the road.


You sound rather offended by my posts. Believe me, I understand engineering. It just seems to me, that a projector doesn't do much more than project the light out, in a smooth, linear pattern, which is why I came to the conclusion I did. But, my question was answered, so no need for more posts :thumbup:


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## Quinn1.8t (Oct 8, 2006)

Rob Cote said:


> Aside from hardware limiting the physical possibility of getting within OEM alignment specification, (why) would you want to align it to a different specification?


For non-racecars, there really isn't a reason to align it to a different specification.


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## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

Why does every car brand need their own special version of every damn paint color?
And many of them are so close.... why?
No wonder paint and body guys tend to hear voices.


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## Fisherson (Dec 22, 2008)

So, I put dino oil in my car that has been running on synthetic for years.

Can I get away with driving it on dinosaur remains for a month?


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## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

Fisherson said:


> So, I put dino oil in my car that has been running on synthetic for years.
> 
> Can I get away with driving it on dinosaur remains for a month?


You'll be fine.

The main reason why they say not to put synthetic in a car that's had conventional oil is because conventional oil has some bigger particles and is less uniform. Over long periods of time, those 'bigger' particles help seal up leaks in seals and whatnot and when you replace the oil with synthetic, those blockages go away, creating new leaks. For a month on a car that was already on synthetic is no problem according to this line of reasoning.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

Quinn1.8t said:


> For non-racecars, there really isn't a reason to align it to a different specification.


Unless you find yourself wearing the outer edges of your tires with your driving style, and can offset that wear by adding a degree or half more negative camber.

I've found that about 2 to 2.5 degrees is just right for me to get a flat wear profile on my front tires. Stock is no more than 1.5.


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

To follow up, I went to a different shop last night. They said it wouldn't be a problem after I explained the aftermarket parts I had installed. I waited an hour til they called me back and said my Jeep was all set to pick up. "The only thing is, we couldn't align it." Said they'd gotten a similar one in the past that took 3 hours to adjust the toe only. :facepalm:

I'm just going to do it myself. These people clearly don't want to take my money.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Rob Cote said:


> my Jeep was all set to pick up. "The only thing is, we couldn't align it."


Did you have anything else done or was that it? :screwy:


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

VDub2625 said:


> Did you have anything else done or was that it? :screwy:


Nope, that was it. Took them an hour to do nothing. :laugh:


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## ph03n1x (Feb 22, 2011)

How exactly do wheel spacers work? Cause all I know is that it lowers the offset but it still doesn't really explain much to me.


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## 92skirmishgti (Sep 5, 2005)

Rob Cote said:


> Nope, that was it. Took them an hour to do nothing. :laugh:


WHat lift kit do you have? 

My 6.5" IRO lift came with a set of alignment specs.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

ph03n1x said:


> How exactly do wheel spacers work? Cause all I know is that it lowers the offset but it still doesn't really explain much to me.


it spaces the wheels out. You're just bolting something in between the wheel mounting face and hub.

The reason it effectively lowers the offset is that the wheel's tire bead in relation to the mounting surface of the hub distance is changed.


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## ph03n1x (Feb 22, 2011)

VDub2625 said:


> it spaces the wheels out. You're just bolting something in between the wheel mounting face and hub.
> 
> The reason it effectively lowers the offset is that the wheel's tire bead in relation to the mounting surface of the hub distance is changed.


So a lower offset means the wheels are pushed out more?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

ph03n1x said:


> So a lower offset means the wheels are pushed out more?


Offset has a ...-1,0,+1... scale. Positive and negative, through 0. 0 is when the hub mounting face is exactly centered between the inner and outer edges of the tire bead (inner and outer rim). Positive offset, where the numbers get bigger, is when a wheel is inboard, meaning the hub is closer to the outer rim than the inner. Negative offset goes in the other direction, where the hub is closer to the inner rim than the outer. 

Most cars are somewhere in the positive range. FWD VWs, for example, generally are in the +45 to +30 range. RWD cars are generally lower than this, but (IIRC), not generally 0 or less, stock. I don't know enough about other makes to make a positive judgement on that.

Wheel width has an impact on offset. If you have a BBS wheel, for example, that's 6" wide with a +35 ET, if you were to modify the wheel with a new outer rim (as most people do), and were to widen the wheel by an additional inch, to 7", the offset would change as the center line between the rims would change, and offset is a number of relation between the mounting face and rim centerline. Since you're adding to the outboard side, the offset would get lower (probably somewhere in the 22mm range). I don't have the brain to crunch those numbers but maybe someone else will


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

*FV-QR*

Do you o-ring a block or a head, and why?


----------



## JettaMobile (Jan 6, 2009)

A.Wilder said:


> Do you o-ring a block or a head, and why?


Do you mean a head gasket?


----------



## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

JettaMobile said:


> Do you mean a head gasket?


i dont know, who's on trial here?!


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## JettaMobile (Jan 6, 2009)

A.Wilder said:


> i dont know, who's on trial here?!


Haha. Well you don't use an o-ring, you use a gasket, but the idea is the same. It's a sheet of material that's a bit thicker than paper between the block and head that allows a seal to form so pressure can be held in the engine. Bare metal faces pressed together with nothing between don't usually seal very well.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

JettaMobile said:


> Haha. Well you don't use an o-ring, you use a gasket, but the idea is the same. It's a sheet of material that's a bit thicker than paper between the block and head that allows a seal to form so pressure can be held in the engine. Bare metal faces pressed together with nothing between don't usually seal very well.


no, i know that, but i read engine builds and they say they o-ringed the head. i'm just wondering what are the benefits and weaknesses of doing this? i assume it allows better sealing of the cylinder and prevents high compression engines from blowing out the gasket?


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## JettaMobile (Jan 6, 2009)

A.Wilder said:


> no, i know that, but i read engine builds and they say they o-ringed the head. i'm just wondering what are the benefits and weaknesses of doing this? i assume it allows better sealing of the cylinder and prevents high compression engines from blowing out the gasket?


Ohhhh.  yeah, I don't know why they do that either. Now I want to know too.


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## Ubel GLI (Nov 17, 2006)

A.Wilder said:


> Do you o-ring a block or a head, and why?


You can do both, depending on the person and the application they figure if you're already doing one, why not do both? I've never done it, I have only seen 2 to 3 setups off the top of my head that do it (it's still decently big in the Mitsubishi world) and the choice of o-ring location varies. If I was going to do it, I'd do it to the block but there's no reason to if you're running under 800hp, or use the proper studs and have a machinist you trust.

Ringing the head is more work, ringing the block is cheaper, so that's one factor in your decision. The time to O-ring the head is if your head is moving without any det. O-ringing a block is basically just to avoid head-gasket failure north of 40psi


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## Minneapolis (Oct 25, 2010)

Why do LED lights turn off when the turn signal is on?


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## Ubel GLI (Nov 17, 2006)

Minneapolis said:


> Why do LED lights turn off when the turn signal is on?


I think it's because of DOT regulations


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

Ubel GLI said:


> I think it's because of DOT regulations


Really? I thought it was because the Germans don't know how to wire them in parallel...wouldn't be the first time that their electrical engineering sucked


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Minneapolis said:


> Why do LED lights turn off when the turn signal is on?





Ubel GLI said:


> I think it's because of DOT regulations


this.

the signals need to be much brighter than the other lighting so that a car that's facing you can see your signal in the dark. if you've got LEDs that are bright as well as headlights, it makes the turn signals harder to see if you're facing that vehicle; particularly at night time or during inclement weather when visibility isn't the best.

the easy solution is just make the LEDs turn off when the nearby signals are turned on to allow for higher visibility.


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## ph03n1x (Feb 22, 2011)

I got DG springs installed on my GTI. Should I get an alignment on all four wheels or is that just redundant and just get the front two?


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

related to the head gasket discussion, how does a fire ring work? hear the term being thrown around on porsche forums sometimes


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

71DubBugBug said:


> related to the head gasket discussion, how does a fire ring work? hear the term being thrown around on porsche forums sometimes


Same concept as o-ringing a conventional motor. Machine a ring in the jugs, put a stainless ring in there, ring crushes with torque slightly creating a 'superior' sealing surface. I guess they're slightly different in that there's no conventional crush ring that's in the standard motor while in a normal o-ringed motor there's still a head gasket.

They'd call it O-ringing the motor, but Porsche owners are the special little flowers of the car world. Though in their defense, a good few high performance diesel guys call them fire rings as well so ymmv.


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## air2desk (Feb 12, 2012)

Bump

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


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## cberwald (Sep 11, 2011)

Minneapolis said:


> Why do LED lights turn off when the turn signal is on?


You'll notice a lot of American cars, mainly Chrysler products, that do this as well.


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## Giovanni (May 13, 2000)

do I have displacement right? If one removes the pistons and fill up all the cylinders with liquid, the amount they hold is the size of the engine? Like a 5.0 will hold 5 liters of liquid in all the pistons combined? thx


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

Giovanni said:


> do I have displacement right? If one removes the pistons and fill up all the cylinders with liquid, the amount they hold is the size of the engine? Like a 5.0 will hold 5 liters of liquid in all the pistons combined? thx


Basically. But you keep the pistons in the motor. To use your analogy, if you move all the pistons to the bottom of stroke (Bottom dead center), and filled up all the cylinders with fluid, the amount of fluid they held = displacement. Though this doesn't account for changes in head or piston volume, but it's a ballpark


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

ravera said:


> Basically. But you keep the pistons in the motor. To use your analogy, if you move all the pistons to the bottom of stroke (Bottom dead center), and filled up all the cylinders with fluid, the amount of fluid they held = displacement. Though this doesn't account for changes in head or piston volume, but it's a ballpark


It's even simpler than that. If you know the bore you multiply that by Pi times the radius squared for area and multiply that by the piston stroke, times the number of cylinders.

For example. If you have an engine where the bore is the same as the stroke at 3 inches you have 1.5" x 1.5" = 2.25" times 3.1415 (Pi) = 7.06 square inches times the stroke (or height of the cylinder) of 3" you get 21.195 cubic inches per cylinder times the number of cylinders, for example, 12. That would be a 254 cubic inch engine, which is the maximum volume of air all 12 cylinders will compress in one revolution of the motor without turbo or supercharging. Both of those push more air into the cylinder under pressure, but the cubic inches stay the same.


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## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

rychas1 said:


> Not sure if this has been asked within the last 119 pages (!), but why is it that many Hondas that are modded to some degree (exhaust, etc..) have what looks like the richest exhaust soot cloud smothered on their rear bumper. I can't find a pic, but this can't be just GA thing. Is everyone doing a common cheap mod for increasing fuel? Just curious. I don't notice it on VWs, just the Hondas.


this never got answered. anyone know?


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

Giovanni said:


> do I have displacement right? If one removes the pistons and fill up all the cylinders with liquid, the amount they hold is the size of the engine? Like a 5.0 will hold 5 liters of liquid in all the pistons combined? thx


No.



ravera said:


> Basically. But you keep the pistons in the motor. To use your analogy, if you move all the pistons to the bottom of stroke (Bottom dead center), and filled up all the cylinders with fluid, the amount of fluid they held = displacement. Though this doesn't account for changes in head or piston volume, but it's a ballpark


No.



barry2952 said:


> It's even simpler than that. *If you know the bore you multiply that by *Pi times the radius squared for area and multiply that by the piston stroke, times the number of cylinders.


I think you just typoed here (remove the bolded part). That's the closest answer though. It's the amount of fluid that is _displaced_ in one revolution of the crankshaft. And mathematically, it's pi*(.5*(bore))^2*stroke*(# of cylinders). note that displacement does not include volume of the combustion chamber. head design does not affect the amount of fluid that is displaced by the bottom end.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Rob Cote said:


> I think you just typoed here


I know WTF I meant.

:beer:


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

Rob Cote said:


> No.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Which is what all the cylinders at BDC would displace, if you don't account for any other volumes. I figured someone would bitch at me because with the cylinder at bdc you can still get more than full displacement with the head on due to displacement of the cylinder head. I tried to maintain his analogy.


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## Ubel GLI (Nov 17, 2006)

Yeah pistons at BDC is an acceptable analogy for displacement, I didn't see a need for clarification :thumbup:


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

Ubel GLI said:


> Yeah pistons at BDC is an acceptable analogy for displacement, I didn't see a need for clarification :thumbup:


It really isn't though. He was asking for a definition, not something that sort of closely means the same thing. Anyway, I'm not trying to be a douche here, I just want to contribute to this thread which, as I understand, is a place people can come to get information. Like real answers. No hard feelings, only nipples.


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## Ubel GLI (Nov 17, 2006)

Also not trying to he a douche but if take the volume of the cylinder when the piston is at BDC (head not included) or do the calculation by bore and stroke you'll get the same answer. Its the same thing, or your engine builder ****ed up :laugh:


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

That's not necessarily true though, because the piston doesn't come all the way to the top of the block in every engine. Also, piston head design will have an effect on your measurement, whereas the calculation doesn't consider it because it's not a factor.


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## 91gti20v (Jul 18, 2001)

ph03n1x said:


> I got DG springs installed on my GTI. Should I get an alignment on all four wheels or is that just redundant and just get the front two?


You have independent suspension out back. I am not super well versed in modern VW's, but I am guessing they are Macpherson struts? With the IRS, your toe can be adjusted and you may have adjustable camber too, not sure though on your specific car. 

That being said, you should get a 4 wheel alignment.


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## Ubel GLI (Nov 17, 2006)

Rob Cote said:


> That's not necessarily true though, because the piston doesn't come all the way to the top of the block in every engine. Also, piston head design will have an effect on your measurement, whereas the calculation doesn't consider it because it's not a factor.


True, didn't think about that in this scenario. My bad, brains not back on yet this week :thumbup:


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

Ubel GLI said:


> True, didn't think about that in this scenario. My bad, brains not back on yet this week :thumbup:


I usually take a few days, anyway. :laugh::thumbup:


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## Preppy (May 3, 2001)

I'm sure the answer is, because they don't need to since most buyers don't care (and/or packaging purposes for interior space)... but...

Why don't manufacturers make FWD cars with the centre of gravity of the motor behind the front wheel hub / centre of rotation?

e.g. Place the transmission, axles and steering geometry ahead of the motor, pushing the front wheel centre of rotation forward, such that the bulk of the motor is behind the front wheel hubs.

Wouldn't this reduce front overhang and improve cornering ability by moving engine bulk rearward?


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

rychas1 said:


> this never got answered. anyone know?


Could be due to aftermarket fueling, but its more likely due to them running straight pipes with no cats.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Preppy said:


> I'm sure the answer is, because they don't need to since most buyers don't care (and/or packaging purposes for interior space)... but...
> 
> Why don't manufacturers make FWD cars with the centre of gravity of the motor behind the front wheel hub / centre of rotation?
> 
> ...


Its called F/MF. Front/mid-engine, front wheel drive. I think there's a few out there. Most F/M cars are rwd due to the easier drive axle.

Sent from my face


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## thetwodubheads (Dec 6, 2004)

To the spring swapped VW guy...
Yes get an alignment. Depending on what parts were removed to access the springs, it may have disrupted one or more alignment settings. Also, the lower stance could effect camber. It may not be neccesary, but it's not going to hurt anything.


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

Could be a matter of design, too. You would have to wrap a car around that, which sounds like it will end up needing a longer hood or dash, depending where you put the firewall. But, as was stated, it can be done much easier with RWD.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

There's that too. A slanted-back transverse engine over the axle allows a much shorter front end, and lower hood line too. You could lean the engine forward over a front axle, and the lower hood line doesn't matter much anymore because of the new euro crash standards. The engine would be closer to the firewall, though, and there are crash standards involved there too.

Sent from my face


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## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

VDub2625 said:


> There's that too. A slanted-back transverse engine over the axle allows a much shorter front end, and lower hood line too. You could lean the engine forward over a front axle, and the lower hood line doesn't matter much anymore because of the new euro crash standards. The engine would be closer to the firewall, though, and there are crash standards involved there too.
> 
> Sent from my face


That's exactly why the 3rd gen prelude's engine was placed in that manner.


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## Buickboy92 (Sep 5, 2009)

Is the Porsche 911 930 only referring to the Turbo model or all models from that production line, like the 911SC?

930 Turbo:










930? 911 SC:










If the standard 911 from that era 1975-1989 is not called the 930, then what is the type number it goes by?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Porsche_930



> The 930 (usually pronounced nine-thirty) was a sports car built by Porsche, 930 actually being the "type number" for the pre-964 generation 911 Turbo produced between 1975 and 1989.


I believe this means they were still called "911" until the 964 generation, where the type number then mismatched the model name/number, because of very significant revisions in the chassis.

Here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Porsche_911

Lists it as the "911 classic" until 1989, when the 964 takes over.


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## kevin splits (Aug 23, 2010)

What's the best way to change the brake fluid in a car with disc brakes on all 4 corners? 

Best process to remove all the old fluid?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

kevin FaKiN spLits said:


> What's the best way to change the brake fluid in a car with disc brakes on all 4 corners?
> 
> Best process to remove all the old fluid?


Suction. That's the only way you get it all. If you're changing to DOT 5 the lines will have to be rinsed before swapping as 3 and 5 are not compatible.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

A power bleeder is the best choice. Start with the line furthest away from the master cylinder, and use the power bleeder to force new fluid through the lines until it runs clear at the bleeder valve. Repeat the process for the second-furthest, third-furthest, and fourth-furthest (closest), in that order. 

If you don't have a power bleeder, the process is the same, except you would push the brakes manually until the fluid runs clear. They do make suction tools too that can suck the fluid out of the bleeder valve.


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## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

Is the window tint found on new cars like SUVs and minivans a film or is the glass tinted somehow during manufacturing?


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## dodger21 (Jan 24, 2011)

A.Wilder said:


> Do you o-ring a block or a head, and why?





Ubel GLI said:


> You can do both, depending on the person and the application they figure if you're already doing one, why not do both? I've never done it, I have only seen 2 to 3 setups off the top of my head that do it (it's still decently big in the Mitsubishi world) and the choice of o-ring location varies. If I was going to do it, I'd do it to the block but there's no reason to if you're running under 800hp, or use the proper studs and have a machinist you trust.
> 
> Ringing the head is more work, ringing the block is cheaper, so that's one factor in your decision. The time to O-ring the head is if your head is moving without any det. O-ringing a block is basically just to avoid head-gasket failure north of 40psi


O-ringing is to provide more crush to the fire ring on the headgasket, the metallic ring around each cylinder. After a groove is made, a SS wire is inserted into the groove with a .008-.010" protrusion and about 1/2 the distance from the edge of the fire ring. Helps keep the cylinder combustion in the cylinder. Very good thing to have with lots of boost.

The head is a better choice to O-ring as you can take it to the shop and not have to disassemble the whole engine. O-ringing the block only helps to center the o-ring easier. Head is usually cheaper to replace if something goes wrong. 



71DubBugBug said:


> related to the head gasket discussion, how does a fire ring work? hear the term being thrown around on porsche forums sometimes


Fire ring gets confused with block o-ring. Main difference is providing a superior clamp between the head and block while removing the fire ring from the head gasket. This is for all out competition engines as they require a lot of maintenance or you plan on pulling the head a lot.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

barry2952 said:


> Suction. That's the only way you get it all. If you're changing to DOT 5 the lines will have to be rinsed before swapping as 3 and 5 are not compatible.


How do you "rinse" a line? Is there a special fluid that is used to make sure all the old fluid is gone from the master and caliper wells?


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## kevin splits (Aug 23, 2010)

barry2952 said:


> Suction. That's the only way you get it all. If you're changing to DOT 5 the lines will have to be rinsed before swapping as 3 and 5 are not compatible.


Well its a VW mkv and I'm gonna be switching to Wilwood 4 pot fronts and 2 pot rears with braided lines. Honestly I think I'm gonna use the oem VW brake fluid or ATE superblue.



VDub2625 said:


> A power bleeder is the best choice. Start with the line furthest away from the master cylinder, and use the power bleeder to force new fluid through the lines until it runs clear at the bleeder valve. Repeat the process for the second-furthest, third-furthest, and fourth-furthest (closest), in that order.
> 
> If you don't have a power bleeder, the process is the same, except you would push the brakes manually until the fluid runs clear. They do make suction tools too that can suck the fluid out of the bleeder valve.


I got that part, just confused on the part where you get out all the old fluid. Do I just use the manual bleeder and suck out all the fluid till the resevoir is empty, then add new fluid and do the whole bleed process till it runs clear with no bubbles? 



VDub2625 said:


> How do you "rinse" a line? Is there a special fluid that is used to make sure all the old fluid is gone from the master and caliper wells?


X2.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

VDub2625 said:


> How do you "rinse" a line? Is there a special fluid that is used to make sure all the old fluid is gone from the master and caliper wells?


I believe that alcohol is used to flush DOT 3 to change to 5.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

kevin FaKiN spLits said:


> I got that part, just confused on the part where you get out all the old fluid. Do I just use the manual bleeder and suck out all the fluid till the resevoir is empty, then add new fluid and do the whole bleed process till it runs clear with no bubbles?


No, you want to keep it fluid-filled at all times. Air=moisture. Just keep bleeding until the fluid changes color, and goes from dark and dirty to light amber and clean. (I have a hard time seeing the changeover, so I just flush and fill until I run through the entire spec amount of brake fluid, haha).

That alcohol is interesting. I'll have to look into it.


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## Buickboy92 (Sep 5, 2009)

VDub2625 said:


> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Porsche_930
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thank you so much. :thumbup::thumbup:


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## MKV Aaron (Oct 18, 2007)

kevin FaKiN spLits said:


> Well its a VW mkv and I'm gonna be switching to Wilwood 4 pot fronts and 2 pot rears with braided lines. Honestly I think I'm gonna use the oem VW brake fluid or ATE superblue.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Get a motive power bleeder, ate super blue, and its cake. The blue fluid will make it VERY easy to tell when the old stuff is gone.

Pour the blue in the bleeder bottle, screw the tube onto the brake reservoir, pump it up, bleed the clutch first until all blue, and no bubbles, then do the brake bleed procedure, same thing, until all blue, and no bubbles. Done. There are tons of DIYs on here and google for the MKV. 

I did it on my MKV GTI and had no issues.


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## IC AI (Aug 29, 2008)

Why?


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

kevin FaKiN spLits said:


> Well its a VW mkv and I'm gonna be switching to Wilwood 4 pot fronts and 2 pot rears with braided lines. Honestly I think I'm gonna use the oem VW brake fluid or ATE superblue.


Try Motul RBF 600. It has higher boiling points all around, and is cheaper than ATe.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

IC AI said:


> Why?


It appears it was unintentional. The lug nuts came loose. Every time the car accelerated the studs would damage the holes, elongating them until someone noticed. Then they simply tightened the lug nuts to hold the wheel stationary.


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

barry2952 said:


> It appears it was unintentional. The lug nuts came loose. Every time the car accelerated the studs would damage the holes, elongating them until someone noticed. Then they simply tightened the lug nuts to hold the wheel stationary.


Those two upside down lugnuts (with the tapered seat pointing up) probably didn't help the situation either.


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

the us government has a limit to the amount of lights on the front of a vehicle 
those led strips have usually have many lights in them. Do they have an exemption for this? or is the limit for lighting units, as in each headlight is one unit


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

71DubBugBug said:


> the us government has a limit to the amount of lights on the front of a vehicle
> those led strips have usually have many lights in them. Do they have an exemption for this? or is the limit for lighting units, as in each headlight is one unit


My friend was pulled over for having a total of 8 lights on his truck. BUT they were 2 sets of fogs, the 2 headlights (one set was for brights) and one set on top the cab. I don't think its the amount of lights, but the brightness they all put out together.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

SirSpectre said:


> My friend was pulled over for having a total of 8 lights on his truck. BUT they were 2 sets of fogs, the 2 headlights (one set was for brights) and one set on top the cab. I don't think its the amount of lights, but the brightness they all put out together.


There is a law in the FMVSS about a single low beam headlight per side- you are allowed a dual beam for low/high, and I think one additional high beam, and any other lights must be designated auxillary, DRL, fog, or otherwise offroad use only. I think this has to do with how they're switched on (headlight switch can only power two lights low, up to 4 high?).

I'm rusty on the standard but I'm pretty sure that's how it goes. I was also wondering how these multielement LED lights work. it must be per unit, specifically for LED lights only.


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## Ubel GLI (Nov 17, 2006)

I have more of a request then a question but its still a question. Someone answered it before but I've searched and can't find it for the life of me. 

Brake caliper placement - why do some cars put them towards the front of the car, and why do some put the caliper towards the back? To clarify, if you're looking directly at the drivers side front wheel some calipers are on the left and some are on the right. Is it just packaging? Isn't there some physics behind it?


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

Why did the lifters on #2 go out in my 4.0L?!

I don't like taking the head off!


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

Ubel GLI said:


> I have more of a request then a question but its still a question. Someone answered it before but I've searched and can't find it for the life of me.
> 
> Brake caliper placement - why do some cars put them towards the front of the car, and why do some put the caliper towards the back? To clarify, if you're looking directly at the drivers side front wheel some calipers are on the left and some are on the right. Is it just packaging? Isn't there some physics behind it?


There's definitely physics involved. More accurately, dynamics. I'm not sure what exactly determines its clock position, but to me, the forward side of the wheel makes the most sense because when the brake is applied, a downward load will transfer into the caliper and then the spindle and so on to the tire, creating more traction, which you'll want in order to increase braking capacity. I'm not sure what advantage there is to placing it on the rear side, but I'll make a guess. If the front calipers clamp on the rear of the rotor, perhaps it pitches the car rearward, increasing rear breaking capacity? It might be useful in a rear-engine car, where the majority of the braking happens. That's a guess, I'm curious if someone has a more definite answer. I've wondered about this before, too.


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## Quinn1.8t (Oct 8, 2006)

Rob Cote said:


> There's definitely physics involved. More accurately, dynamics. I'm not sure what exactly determines its clock position, but to me, the forward side of the wheel makes the most sense because when the brake is applied, a downward load will transfer into the caliper and then the spindle and so on to the tire, creating more traction, which you'll want in order to increase braking capacity. I'm not sure what advantage there is to placing it on the rear side, but I'll make a guess. If the front calipers clamp on the rear of the rotor, perhaps it pitches the car rearward, increasing rear breaking capacity? It might be useful in a rear-engine car, where the majority of the braking happens. That's a guess, I'm curious if someone has a more definite answer. I've wondered about this before, too.


Actually, it's almost always just because of packaging. The placement have little effect on the braking force. There was a thread about this a few weeks ago, let me find it.

Here it is: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...lacement-question&highlight=caliper+placement


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Rob Cote said:


> There's definitely physics involved. More accurately, dynamics. I'm not sure what exactly determines its clock position, but to me, the forward side of the wheel makes the most sense because when the brake is applied, a downward load will transfer into the caliper and then the spindle and so on to the tire, creating more traction, which you'll want in order to increase braking capacity. I'm not sure what advantage there is to placing it on the rear side, but I'll make a guess. If the front calipers clamp on the rear of the rotor, perhaps it pitches the car rearward, increasing rear breaking capacity? It might be useful in a rear-engine car, where the majority of the braking happens. That's a guess, I'm curious if someone has a more definite answer. I've wondered about this before, too.


I don't think it matters. Most front calipers are located where they are because the steering related bits that are typically on the rear side of the hub.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Rob Cote said:


> If the front calipers clamp on the rear of the rotor, perhaps it pitches the car rearward, increasing rear breaking capacity? It might be useful in a rear-engine car, where the majority of the braking happens. That's a guess, I'm curious if someone has a more definite answer. I've wondered about this before, too.



this is inaccurate.

when brakes are applied, the weight of the vehicle always pitches forward, regardless of where the calipers are located, or where the engine is. inertia says that a mass in motion will remain in motion..... you know the rest. it's why your body gets thrown into your seat belt when your buddy decides to slam on the brakes.

additionally, since the weight is always pitched forward, this is also the reason most if the braking is done by the front brakes.


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

C4 A6 said:


> Try Motul RBF 600. It has higher boiling points all around,


Yes.




C4 A6 said:


> and is cheaper than ATe.


No, not even close. The Motul is about twice the price of the ATE, though I use it anyway for any car that sees track time.


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## Ubel GLI (Nov 17, 2006)

Quinn1.8t said:


> Actually, it's almost always just because of packaging. The placement have little effect on the braking force. There was a thread about this a few weeks ago, let me find it.
> 
> Here it is: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...lacement-question&highlight=caliper+placement


There, that thread had it. Forgot about the steering advantage. I remember the original thread was about Audi's packaging of their LM car and why their caliper was in the back :thumbup::thumbup:

Also as for the dynamics of it, I know most of that, my backgrounds bpowertrain though and its been a while since I've designed a suspension. :laugh:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Rob Cote said:


> when the brake is applied, a downward load will transfer into the caliper and then the spindle and so on to the tire, creating more traction, which you'll want in order to increase braking capacity.


I know it sounds nice, but physics says "no". That kinda sounds like this:









When you brake, there is an equal and opposite force. The pads are slowing down the rotation of the axle, by applying a resistive force in the opposite direction. The axle and brake disc are pulling the caliper in a rotational direction (ultimately, pulling on the caliper, carrier, spindle, and suspension). The force doesn't go in a straight line; nothing is forcing the caliper "down" toward the ground because there is no force pushing back up equally. If the caliper were to somehow detatch, it would spin around with the brake disc, not slam into the ground (well, in actuality, it would, if the caliper tension on the axle were released, but that's from centrifugal forces which is a completely different situation because it would happen from the speed and force of the rotation movement, whereas a fixed caliper isn't moving rotationally).


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

VDub2625 said:


> nothing is forcing the caliper "down" toward the ground because there is no force pushing back up equally.


Then why does it need to be bolted on? What forces do the caliper bolts see? I submit that they are tangential to the rotor along the direction of rotation.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Remember, to theorize correctly, you can only change one thing at a time. Each change in the action results in different forces. 

If you removed the bolts, the caliper would spin around attached to the disc, if somehow it were possible to keep the braking power while detached.

Like I said, if the braking forces were to be stopped while the caliper is imaginarily rotating around the hub, then centrifugal forces would make it fly off in any direction it let go in (but that is a different force and action than what we're discussing).

The disc pulls on the pads, rotationally, which pull on the caliper, rotationally, which pulls on the carrier, rotationally, which pulls on the spindle, rotationally, which pulls on the suspension, rotationally. If the strut (and other suspension parts) were to let go, the whole damn thing would spin in circles, not suddenly end up in the bowels of hell. 

I'm not a physical theorist or anything, so my terms might be incorrect, but I'm explaining what's in my head as best as I can!


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## 484 (Feb 10, 2011)

Rob Cote said:


> Then why does it need to be bolted on? What forces do the caliper bolts see? I submit that they are tangential to the rotor along the direction of rotation.


If this isn't a troll post...

The caliper clamps onto the disc and applies friction to slow the car down. The disc is rotating. The friction applied to the disc by the caliper/pads (and vice versa) means if the caliper were not 'bolted on', it would clamp fast onto the rotor and proceed to whirl around with it 

You know, discounting facts like it then ripping the brake line, therefore releasing clamping pressure and being flung completely off the car. Cue debate over centrifugal vs. centripetal. :laugh:

Edit: beaten, apparently this took me 3 minutes to type.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Transmissions. Or Engines. Or 4WD, or ABS. Or any big component of a car that requires dedicated engineering. 

Who does it? The manufacturer? Outside contractors? Combination of both? 

I'm talking things like Getrag or Borg-Warner for transmissions, or Teves for ABS, or Yamaha for engines. I know many companies DO engineer their own stuff (especially if it's a bigger company like MB, VW, GM, Honda etc), but how does the process work for smaller companies that can't afford massive R&D? Do they just go to a manufacturer and give their specs, and ask for the part? Or is it a collaboration of efforts? Why are these other companies sometimes advertised, touted as if it's better than if they did it themselves (Getrag as an example)? How prevalent is this, do most (all?) companies use outside contractors for their parts?


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## Neezy13 (Jun 1, 2011)

VDub2625 said:


> Transmissions. Or Engines. Or 4WD, or ABS. Or any big component of a car that requires dedicated engineering.
> 
> Who does it? The manufacturer? Outside contractors? Combination of both?
> 
> I'm talking things like Getrag or Borg-Warner for transmissions, or Teves for ABS, or Yamaha for engines. I know many companies DO engineer their own stuff (especially if it's a bigger company like MB, VW, GM, Honda etc), but how does the process work for smaller companies that can't afford massive R&D? Do they just go to a manufacturer and give their specs, and ask for the part? Or is it a collaboration of efforts? Why are these other companies sometimes advertised, touted as if it's better than if they did it themselves (Getrag as an example)? How prevalent is this, do most (all?) companies use outside contractors for their parts?


 I can't speak for transmissions or engines, but I work for a company that makes windshield wiper systems for most car makers and for the wiper system our company does most of the design work. The car maker gives a set of criteria, then the wiper motor and linkage is designed to meet these criteria and relevant safety standards and then design is approved by the car maker after it has been validated through testing to meet the engineering standards of the car maker.


----------



## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

We make engines, albeit not car engines, but engines all the same. Usually the main communication between manufacturers as far as design goes is what's called an interface drawing (IFD). I think it could vary on who was first, but most often the company delivering the finished product (vehicle WITH engine) will issue specifications (i.e.- "We need this much power, we have approximately these dimensions to fit it in, this is our operating environment, etc.") and the winning bid will respond with the IFD. The IFD will detail where and how the component (engine) is to be mounted and any other inputs required (i.e.- signals, power, cooling, duct work, etc.). Usually there will be some issues that arise, a few (hopefully only a few) rounds of revisions and everyone is happy and then you go forward with a prototype. Make some more changes as required. It goes to be tested and once everything checks out, you go to production. Now, the engine is essentially outsourced from the point of view of the vehicle manufacturer. Furthermore, engine manufacturers outsource components. And I'm sure some of the parts of those are outsourced as well. It makes this huge chain of different manufacturers in all different industries because a completed vehicle is so complex. It's tough to say where it really begins. Rambled a little bit, but hopefully I answered your question. Lemme know if there are more. 

Oh, and as far as being advantageous to boast a different manufacturers name for the engine...Some companies are just known for making a great product. To make a ****ty analogy, your outfit is likely comprised of many different manufacturer's products because the company that makes your shoes might make crappy shirts because shirts aren't their specialty, shoes are. So if you can say, "Hey look at our product, it's great! We use XYZ's engine!" it looks good on you because company XYZ is known to make a great engine. You make a great vehicle, but you just don't have the capacity to develop engines because it's such a huge undertaking maybe you don't have the overhead to do it. Also, it takes some liability off of you as far as inventory. As the vehicle manufacturer, the engines you're using are just an "off-the-shelf" part, so you order them as required to ship your finished vehicle. Some military/government contracts require a certain minimum of common, off-the-shelf (COTS) parts. Usually based on a percentage of total price, I think. 

Whew. Okay, I'm done for now. :laugh:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Now that's the thing I find interesting. 

What sort of design specs? Must clear #"x#" windshield? You're in NC... do you mainly work with American brands, or worldwide? 

EDIT thanks Cote, that was very helpful  how I figured it worked, but the clear explanation helped a ton. I'd like to sit in on some of these meetings  (I've always been interested in technical design, though it's another "jack of all trades" interest, I think I'd get bored with the real life work pretty quickly ). 

So, now... any insight into how often vehicle manufacturers do this behind the scenes?


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## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

Rob Cote said:


> We make engines, albeit not car engines, but engines all the same. Usually the main communication between manufacturers as far as design goes is what's called an interface drawing (IFD). I think it could vary on who was first, but most often the company delivering the finished product (vehicle WITH engine) will issue specifications (i.e.- "We need this much power, we have approximately these dimensions to fit it in, this is our operating environment, etc.") and the winning bid will respond with the IFD. The IFD will detail where and how the component (engine) is to be mounted and any other inputs required (i.e.- signals, power, cooling, duct work, etc.). Usually there will be some issues that arise, a few (hopefully only a few) rounds of revisions and everyone is happy and then you go forward with a prototype. Make some more changes as required. It goes to be tested and once everything checks out, you go to production. Now, the engine is essentially outsourced from the point of view of the vehicle manufacturer. Furthermore, engine manufacturers outsource components. And I'm sure some of the parts of those are outsourced as well. It makes this huge chain of different manufacturers in all different industries because a completed vehicle is so complex. It's tough to say where it really begins. Rambled a little bit, but hopefully I answered your question. Lemme know if there are more.
> 
> Oh, and as far as being advantageous to boast a different manufacturers name for the engine...Some companies are just known for making a great product. To make a ****ty analogy, your outfit is likely comprised of many different manufacturer's products because the company that makes your shoes might make crappy shirts because shirts aren't their specialty, shoes are. So if you can say, "Hey look at our product, it's great! We use XYZ's engine!" it looks good on you because company XYZ is known to make a great engine. You make a great vehicle, but you just don't have the capacity to develop engines because it's such a huge undertaking maybe you don't have the overhead to do it. Also, it takes some liability off of you as far as inventory. As the vehicle manufacturer, the engines you're using are just an "off-the-shelf" part, so you order them as required to ship your finished vehicle. Some military/government contracts require a certain minimum of common, off-the-shelf (COTS) parts. Usually based on a percentage of total price, I think.
> 
> Whew. Okay, I'm done for now. :laugh:


 power-plant development is actually probably not outsourced. otherwise we would see the same engines in different brands, and not like VW/audi or chevy/caddy. esp the lower, base engines in high volume cars, would all be the same. this rarely happens. 

you do see this all the time with subsystems, like electric windows, ECU, transmissions etc etc etc


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

VDub2625 said:


> Now that's the thing I find interesting.
> 
> What sort of design specs? Must clear #"x#" windshield? You're in NC... do you mainly work with American brands, or worldwide?
> 
> EDIT thanks Cote, that was very helpful  how I figured it worked, but the clear explanation helped a ton. I'd like to sit in on some of these meetings  (I've always been interested in technical design, though it's another "jack of all trades" interest, I think I'd get bored with the real life work pretty quickly ).


 Yeah...I left out the part where the customer comes in. Because basically that's when all hell breaks loose. I mean, it varies by company. I worked at a place that built mainly one-off or two-of-the-same kinda deals. So in that case, a customer would work with sales to define a rough idea of what the vehicle would do. Basically, we built box trucks and such with more or less anything they wanted in the box. So once we had an idea of their requirements for capabilities we could get started. But then you're trying to mesh their requirements (sometimes they'd throw in real random curve balls for no apparent reason. For example, console widths that aren't standard, so we would fabricate a whole console instead of buying one off the shelf. I mean, why do they care what the console size is? But you just do it because they're paying.) with regulations and making it all work with COTS to save some money. It's interesting sure, but I don't think I'd call that fun.


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## Neezy13 (Jun 1, 2011)

VDub2625 said:


> Now that's the thing I find interesting.
> 
> What sort of design specs? Must clear #"x#" windshield? You're in NC... do you mainly work with American brands, or worldwide?
> 
> EDIT thanks Cote, that was very helpful  how I figured it worked, but the clear explanation helped a ton. I'd like to sit in on some of these meetings  (I've always been interested in technical design, though it's another "jack of all trades" interest, I think I'd get bored with the real life work pretty quickly ).


 The company I work for is a Japanese owned subsidiary of DENSO. In NC we make systems for Chrysler, GM, Toyota, Honda/Acura, BMW, Mitsubishi, and Hyundai/Kia. We mainly supply the North American plants and there are other plants in the Czech Republic and Japan for wiper systems. 

As for what specs, as Rob Cote said they mainly tell us it has to fit here and mount to these points. After that there are FMVSS requirements for wiper speed and for windshield coverage. The windshield is divided into zones and the system must clear a certain percentage of each zone.


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

cockerpunk said:


> power-plant development is actually probably not outsourced. otherwise we would see the same engines in different brands, and not like VW/audi or chevy/caddy. esp the lower, base engines in high volume cars, would all be the same. this rarely happens.


 Development is certainly not. That's proprietary. However, as I alluded to in my earlier post, " I think it could vary on who was first, but most often the company delivering the finished product (vehicle WITH engine) will issue specifications (i.e.- "We need this much power, we have approximately these dimensions to fit it in, this is our operating environment, etc.") and the winning bid will respond with the IFD." It could go the other way. Like when DeTomaso made the Pantera, they used a Ford engine (351C IIRC?). In this instance, I'd guess that DeTomaso put out an RFQ (request for quote, includes basic specs and volume of engines required) and Ford won. At this point, Ford said, "Well, we already have this engine designed and in production. Can you use this? Here's an IFD." 

This is obviously speculation.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Neezy13 said:


> After that there are FMVSS requirements for wiper speed and for windshield coverage. The windshield is divided into zones and the system must clear a certain percentage of each zone.


 I'm such a geek. Now this interests me as to what they are. 

I could fall asleep reading the FMVSS at night.


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## Neezy13 (Jun 1, 2011)

VDub2625 said:


> I'm such a geek. Now this interests me as to what they are.
> 
> I could fall asleep reading the FMVSS at night.


 Lol, I don't know if I could fall asleep to the FMVSS, but it is interesting knowing what things are regualted. The FMVSS requirements for zone coverage are as follows: 

A - 80% 
B - 94% 
C - 99% 

On the image below, red = A, green = B, blue = C. Yellow is the actual wipe pattern and white is the viewable area of the windshield. The zones are defined based on the drivers seated position in the car for each model.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Now that is some interesting stuff, thanks for sharing :thumbup:


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## ttvick (Aug 15, 2007)

Not really a question, but didn't want to make a new thread. 

We had a thread here a while ago which went something like "Show me armored cars that have done their job."

Can anybody find it? I tried searching to no avail.


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## dylDOH (Apr 28, 2012)

is it a bad idea to turbo a high mileage car? Or upgrade an already turbo engine to a big turbo set up? What should be replaced to make the engine stronger? (100k miles plus)


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

dylDOH said:


> is it a bad idea to turbo a high mileage car? Or upgrade an already turbo engine to a big turbo set up? What should be replaced to make the engine stronger? (100k miles plus)


Not the most terrible idea but it really varies from engine to engine and it's condition. If you really want to turbo a high mileage car you should make sure it still had good compression on all the cylinders. This will tell you if the piston rings or valve seals are good as well as the headgasket. Ideally if the engine wasn't turbo before you should replace the pistons, connecting rods, possibly the crank and definitely the headgasket. This all depends on how much power you want to get from the turbo. If you keep the PSI low a stock engine should be okay but when you start increasing the psi you're putting more stress on the engine and it's internals.


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## 20aeman (Jun 8, 2006)

You're probably talking about your 337? 

Rods are the weak point of that motor. Lots of torque over time will eventually snap a rod on a big turbo application. 

Rebuild with aftermarket rods fixes the problem. 

Or maybe having a big turbo/low boost setup where wheel torque is about the same as your stock turbo...it just won't taper of in the high rpms (unlike the stock turbo), so you effectively have more hp. But that's a bandaid.


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

mellbergVWfan said:


> If you keep the PSI low a stock engine should be okay but when you start increasing the psi you're putting more stress on the engine and it's internals.


Please, it's "pressure", not "PSI". The rest of your post was on point, so don't be offended. It just bugs the crap out of me when people use units in place of the measurement being referred to. Carry on. :beer:


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## VarianceVQ (Jun 26, 2005)

Why do car companies still largely offer Bose audio options if they suck so much?

These guys all offer Bose audio in some if not all of their models:

Alfa Romeo »
Audi »
Buick »
Cadillac »
Chevrolet »
GMC »
Holden »
Infiniti »
Lancia »
Maserati »
Mazda »
Nissan »
Opel »
Porsche »
Renault »
Renault Samsung Motors »
SEAT »

I have a Bose system in my Pathfinder and can attest to the lack of sound quality (although there has been the odd track where it sounds decent).

I suppose they all get a good price from Bose on the equipment? Do most buyers just not notice the inferior sound?


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

It's probably cheaper to sub it out to an audio company than design/build it in-house.


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## TetsuoShima (Nov 30, 2008)

Yes, I can google but then what would be the point of this thread? 

What is a dry sump oil system and what are its benefits?


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## MAC (Dec 9, 1999)

Yesterday I had a set of tires mounted to a set of new wheels. When I got home I noticed that each wheel has 8 little pinholes punched into the inside of the barrel - 2 at 12 oclock, 2 at 3, 2 at 6 and 2 at 9. What are those from ?


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## JettaMobile (Jan 6, 2009)

VarianceVQ said:


> Why do car companies still largely offer Bose audio options if they suck so much?
> 
> These guys all offer Bose audio in some if not all of their models:
> 
> ...


If I had to guess it's just like a lot of other car parts. Manuf. asks for bids to provide sound system for cars and Bose consistently comes in the lowest. Probably helps that it's a well known brand among the masses.


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

MAC said:


> Yesterday I had a set of tires mounted to a set of new wheels. When I got home I noticed that each wheel has 8 little pinholes punched into the inside of the barrel - 2 at 12 oclock, 2 at 3, 2 at 6 and 2 at 9. What are those from ?


Probably the chuck that holds the wheel to the rotary table used for mounting/dismounting tires.


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

TetsuoShima said:


> Yes, I can google but then what would be the point of this thread?
> 
> What is a dry sump oil system and what are its benefits?


Basically the engine uses a dry film style lubricant. Like graphite or similar.


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## fourdoors (Nov 1, 2006)

Rob Cote said:


> Basically the engine uses a dry film style lubricant. Like graphite or similar.


Not sure if this is a troll that whooshed over me, but no, that is not what it means at all. A dry sump system pumps oil through an external reservoir which is then pumped back into the engine. The oil pan is smaller than on a wet sump system and the pumps are external as opposed to internal.

The advantages are better cooling, degasification of the oil, better center of gravity, and no loss of oil pressure in high-G turns.


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

fourdoors said:


> Not sure if this is a troll that whooshed over me, but no, that is not what it means at all. A dry sump system pumps oil through an external reservoir which is then pumped back into the engine. The oil pan is smaller than on a wet sump system and the pumps are external as opposed to internal.
> 
> The advantages are better cooling, degasification of the oil, better center of gravity, and no loss of oil pressure in high-G turns.


 also, Crankcase vacuum, low tension rings, less ground clearance, and usually larger oil capacity



MAC said:


> Yesterday I had a set of tires mounted to a set of new wheels. When I got home I noticed that each wheel has 8 little pinholes punched into the inside of the barrel - 2 at 12 oclock, 2 at 3, 2 at 6 and 2 at 9. What are those from ?


Lazy/ ill equipped tire shop










if you note the inside of the foot can clamp with a "soft" usually plastic layer on the outer edge of the rim, while the "waffle" spikes on the outer portion of the foot are used to clamp by the inner barrel.

It takes extra time to do a better job, go figure


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## lyonsroar (Dec 5, 2012)

here's a question...

So I've started parking my 2009 GTI DSG in the garage at home. Here's the issue...the garage is down a long driveway with barely enough room to turn around on the back pad so I can back into the garage. There is no option to back down the driveway, it's too narrow. I basically need to do a 3-4 point turn, lock-to-lock, on the concrete pad to back in successfully. 

Is this hurting my transmission or steering, etc...doing this everyday?


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

lyonsroar said:


> here's a question...
> 
> So I've started parking my 2009 GTI DSG in the garage at home. Here's the issue...the garage is down a long driveway with barely enough room to turn around on the back pad so I can back into the garage. There is no option to back down the driveway, it's too narrow. I basically need to do a 3-4 point turn, lock-to-lock, on the concrete pad to back in successfully.
> 
> Is this hurting my transmission or steering, etc...doing this everyday?


in short, yes. There are only so many cycles in the service life of a component. 

In reality, don't worry be happy


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

TetsuoShima said:


> Yes, I can google but then what would be the point of this thread?
> 
> What is a dry sump oil system and what are its benefits?





Rob Cote said:


> Basically the engine uses a dry film style lubricant. Like graphite or similar.


no. i believe he's asking about dry sump oiling systems for automotive applications.


a wet sump is what most automotive companies use for production vehicles. basically, the pan holds the oil capacity, and the pump sends it up from there. trouble is, the pickup needs to be submerged all the time, and in cases where inclines, turning (say auto-X), braking, accelerating, it's possible that the sloshing around makes the tube come out of oil coverage. this means loss of oil pressure, and loss of lubrication.

so in short, the pan carries all of the capacity of oil for the engine, and the pickup tube needs to be submerged at all times.


on a dry sump, the capacity of oil is kept in a tank which allows for a smaller oil pan, and also allows for a more controlled environment for the main pump to do it's work. so no matter how much you turn, brake, accelerate, or how bad the incline is, the engine is never starved for oil.

the downsides are that usually a dry sump system requires 2 pumps; one (smaller) at the pickup point to feed the tank, and then the actual main pump that sends oil out to the engine (from the holding tank). 

admittedly, this complicates the lubrication system by increasing the number of moving parts, increasing weight, and overall complexity. but it also allows for a more robust oil circulation that is not prone to starvation or oil pressure fluctuations of a conventional wet sump system.

i'm sure there's more pros and cons for each method, but that's what i've got from my limited experience.


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

Rob Cote said:


> Basically the engine uses a dry film style lubricant. Like graphite or similar.


I'm sorry, what? 
Find me a modern automotive engine that uses a dry lubricant as opposed to oil.


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

Sorry I shoulda put a :laugh: or something. Definitely a joke.


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## NashGTI (Mar 8, 2006)

:laugh:


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## CostcoPizza (Jan 20, 2008)

Let's say I buy the new BMW 328i wagon. It's only available in AWD, but the AWD system can transfer 100% power to either front or rear.

1. Can I buy a controller/programmer that keeps it 100% RWD all the time?
2. If not, are there cars that let you do this?
3. What would happen if you disconnected the driveshaft to the FWD?


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## rrr rr (Oct 12, 2006)

Rob Cote said:


> Some military/government contracts require a certain minimum of common, off-the-shelf (COTS) parts.


COTS = Commercial Off The Shelf, as opposed to GOTS which is Government Off The Shelf.


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

oopsie poopsie. good save! :thumbup:


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## CodeMan (May 12, 2006)

Rob Cote said:


> oopsie poopsie. good save! :thumbup:


0 for 2. Keep up the good work. :facepalm:


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

:laugh::laugh: Right, I've made no other posts in here. :thumbup:


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## MAC (Dec 9, 1999)

gambit420s said:


> Lazy tire shop


Sounds about right. It's a Firestone location. They asked me 3 times if I wanted the free safety check on the car - after I had already dropped off the bare wheels and said I wasn't bringing them the whole car. 

Then they tried to sneak a disposal charge into my bill when I went to pick them up. 

Now they're blowing up my phone about a satisfaction survey. 3 calls since yesterday.

Basically, a lot of aggravation for the sake of convenience. They're a mile from my house and tire rack shipped directly to them.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

MAC said:


> Now they're blowing up my phone about a satisfaction survey. 3 calls since yesterday.


so complete the survey.

they usually only take a minute or two, and you get to tell them exactly how you feel about the (dis)service they provided.


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## RobMarkToo (Apr 21, 2012)

What are these things I see on the front of boy-racer cars?


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## GL Rican (Aug 16, 2006)

Those are tow hooks


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## RobMarkToo (Apr 21, 2012)

GL Rican said:


> Those are tow hooks


thats pretty mundane.. and what i assumed.. but do they have some sort of "meaning"? Are they special track tow hooks or something? Why so big and obtrusive?


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## kwik!gti (Apr 22, 2006)

RobMarkToo said:


> thats pretty mundane.. and what i assumed.. but do they have some sort of "meaning"? Are they special track tow hooks or something? Why so big and obtrusive?


I dont have any on my car but I can tell you they can serve a purpose on a lowered cat if you're getting the car pulled up onto a flatbed.

The towhook sticking out like that means they wont need to use the stock tow points (if the aftermarket hook is installed correctly ofcourse). Hooking onto a protruding hook means that the cable from the tow truck wont be up against a low hanging lip and/or front bumper and thus damaging the paint.


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## MAC (Dec 9, 1999)

RobMarkToo said:


> Are they special track tow hooks or something? Why so big and obtrusive?


Just to make your 1.6l single cam honda look like a race car.


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## helement2003 (Aug 3, 2004)

*How is rear legroom measured?*

I can't seem to find a straight answer.


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## I_<3_boost (Mar 18, 2013)

kwik!gti said:


> I dont have any on my car


you've posted pics of a benen two hook on you EM1 on here before.


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

kwik!gti said:


> I dont have any on my car but I can tell you they can serve a purpose on a lowered cat if you're getting the car pulled up onto a flatbed.
> 
> The towhook sticking out like that means they wont need to use the stock tow points (if the aftermarket hook is installed correctly ofcourse). Hooking onto a protruding hook means that the cable from the tow truck wont be up against a low hanging lip and/or front bumper and thus damaging the paint.


This all makes sense, but why not remove it until you need a tow? Or do they get towed THAT often?


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## kwik!gti (Apr 22, 2006)

^If the hook is installed correctly on the front you would have to remove the front bumper cover to install the tow hook. On the rear I agree with you though.


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

kwik!gti said:


> ^If the hook is installed correctly on the front you would have to remove the front bumper cover to install the tow hook. On the rear I agree with you though.


Ah I didn't know. Mine just screws in via a cover that pops off the front bumper cover.


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## kwik!gti (Apr 22, 2006)

Rob Cote said:


> Ah I didn't know. Mine just screws in via a cover that pops off the front bumper cover.


I'm assuming you have a VW or a BMW? That setup is certainly convenient. Simply pop off a little plastic cover and screw in. That's really nice. On a Honda like the car pictured you have to bolt the hook to the bumper beam.

Again, I'm not trying to defend the use of the hooks as most of them are simply there for "show". But by the letter of the law so to speak they could be functional under certain circumstances.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

kwik!gti said:


> ^If the hook is installed correctly on the front you would have to remove the front bumper cover to install the tow hook. On the rear I agree with you though.


Are there really manufacturers that do that? :screwy: everyone I've seen has a cap of some sort, or it's buried in a grille somewhere easily accessible. 

I think the practice comes from rallying/racing, where you must have your tow hook installed in case of a crash and you need to be pulled out of a ditch


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## kwik!gti (Apr 22, 2006)

VDub2625 said:


> Are there really manufacturers that do that? :screwy: everyone I've seen has a cap of some sort, or it's buried in a grille somewhere easily accessible.
> 
> I think the practice comes from rallying/racing, where you must have your tow hook installed in case of a crash and you need to be pulled out of a ditch


Not following you? On Hondas there isn't a screw in style tow hook/point like a BMW or VW. It's simply a welded loop under the front bumper. Which leads back to my original point that moving that tow point out from under the front bumper cover/lip area and protruding out will/could save you from some damage from a tow line if your car is substantially lowered as is the case with most Hondas with aftermarket tow hooks that you see out and about.


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## Ubel GLI (Nov 17, 2006)

VDub2625 said:


> I think the practice comes from rallying/racing, where you must have your tow hook installed in case of a crash and you need to be pulled out of a ditch


This is correct and why its more of a fashion thing now than anything. Yes it will help when you bust your stanced out oil pan on a manhole but it is more of a JDM racing-influenced style than it is a functional part


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## Egz (May 30, 2002)

Why hasn't anyone looked into replacing the lead acid battery with something like a Li-ion? Does it not have the CCA for a starter?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

kwik!gti said:


> Not following you? On Hondas there isn't a screw in style tow hook/point like a BMW or VW. It's simply a welded loop under the front bumper. Which leads back to my original point that moving that tow point out from under the front bumper cover/lip area and protruding out will/could save you from some damage from a tow line if your car is substantially lowered as is the case with most Hondas with aftermarket tow hooks that you see out and about.


On old VWs it was like that too... welded loops of steel hanging down from the bumper supports, and on some models, welded to the frame rails directly. 

The way I read that, i thought you meant that the bumper must be removed to use the tow hook, no matter what. I kinda get what you meant now. Sorry, had to have my morning sandwich 

Maybe it's different on those cars the way it's designed, but I have always seen the permanently-welded tow hooks to be relatively clear of the bumper ie. if you attach a tow rope and it goes straight out it won't hit or rub the bumper. When you said that before I thought you meant the way they sometimes attach chains etc to the control arms, yes that would damage the bumper.


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## Egz (May 30, 2002)

VDub2625 said:


> On old VWs it was like that too... welded loops of steel hanging down from the bumper supports, and on some models, welded to the frame rails directly.


Sure those aren't just tie downs for when shipping overseas?


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## Ubel GLI (Nov 17, 2006)

Egz said:


> Why hasn't anyone looked into replacing the lead acid battery with something like a Li-ion? Does it not have the CCA for a starter?


Cost. Some performance cars have started testing other options out. A lot of race cars use different battery types (or motorcycle batteries due to the weight) but right now the standard lead acid battery is hard to beat on price. ~98% of the things you see on consumer cars are cost based. The other ~2% are safety:laugh:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Egz said:


> Sure those aren't just tie downs for when shipping overseas?


No, the owner's manuals list them as tow hooks. The small bumper Mk2 VWs had 4, 2 front and rear off the bumper support, and there were no other hooks or holes to speak of. The big bumper cars had 3, one in the front was on the frame rail, one was on the bumper support, and the single rear one was on the frame rail, under a cover on the bumper. 

I think they used the holes in the bottom, in the frame rails, to tie down for shipping?


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

Ubel GLI said:


> ~98% of the things you see on consumer cars are cost based. The other ~2% are safety:laugh:


Pretty much.
Lead Acids are cheap, don't even blink dumping 250-300 Amps into a starter, and they're inherently safe to charge with a simple voltage regulator.


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## GLgod (Aug 23, 2006)

Ubel GLI said:


> Cost. Some performance cars have started testing other options out. A lot of race cars use different battery types (or motorcycle batteries due to the weight) but right now the standard lead acid battery is hard to beat on price. ~98% of the things you see on consumer cars are cost based. The other ~2% are safety:laugh:


There is a company out there that makes li ion batteries specifically for the automotive market place. I can't remember the name currently, but they fetch a seriously premium price ($400-600). They are the exact same shape and size as the standard lead acid battery, but they weigh somewhere around 5 lbs.

However, along with price, one of the main issues with those style batteries is their cold weather performance. Expect your CCA's to drop by half in the winter vs. the summer.


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## clutchrider (Dec 11, 2010)

As valid as it may be for boy racers and low guys to have hooks on the front of their super mega awesome modified special trailer racekar Civics, 99.9999999999% of them are for show purposes. The same goes for the ones that are out the back with little stupid keychains dangling from them.

I always figured they were tell tales that the person was up for street racing or was part of some uber special nifty keen kool car gang.

Besides if you really put in the effort you could make it similar to a VW/BMW where the front has a pop off cover that the hook can then be screwed onto. But what am I thinking, they most likely go to Pep Boyz and get the $5 purple metallic aluminum special.

Wow I'm full of hate for these cars today.


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## JettaMobile (Jan 6, 2009)

A Li-ion battery is a factory option for some p-cars. If I recall correctly it's quite pricy.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

clutchrider said:


> But what am I thinking, they most likely go to Pep Boyz and get the $5 purple metallic aluminum special.


That reminded me of something. I'm going out on a limb here, though it's not a very long one. Are those tow hooks actually rated to tow? Or are they like those keychain carabeeners? 

I was also wondering, if a Honda does not have a screw-in tow hook receptacle, how do these mount up?


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## redshift (May 22, 2002)

VDub2625 said:


> That reminded me of something. I'm going out on a limb here, though it's not a very long one. Are those tow hooks actually rated to tow? Or are they like those keychain carabeeners?
> 
> I was also wondering, if a Honda does not have a screw-in tow hook receptacle, how do these mount up?


The last two Hondas I owned did have the threaded receptacle in the front bumper support, covered with a plastic cap. Those older ones probably didn't because they had the real tow hooks under the plastic bumper cover near the bottom radiator support, like my EG and EJ did.

Those big ol' tow hooks like the pink one on the black civic are probably bolted to the underside of the bumper support -- we have two on our track Miata that attach like that. The ones that are rated to actually pull the car out are cut from 1/4" stock and are spendy in the fancy colors.


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## clutchrider (Dec 11, 2010)

VDub2625 said:


> That reminded me of something. I'm going out on a limb here, though it's not a very long one. Are those tow hooks actually rated to tow? Or are they like those keychain carabeeners?
> 
> I was also wondering, if a Honda does not have a screw-in tow hook receptacle, how do these mount up?


Basically they drill a hole into the bumper support from what I gather or remove a bolt from the support to fit in the screw point for the hook.

My guess is they are not rated based on the description.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

racing _inspired._


tow hook.


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## Ubel GLI (Nov 17, 2006)

TwoLitreVW said:


> racing _inspired._
> 
> 
> tow hook.


I think "Fashion Tow Hooks" at the top is what tipped me off :laugh:


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

Ubel GLI said:


> I think "Fashion Tow Hooks" at the top is what tipped me off :laugh:


This

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I work in a hotel, and part of my job is valet...

So we have a few guests in tonight, and two cars (as of now). Both are silver Impalas, same generation (2006-2014), one is an '08 and the other looks a bit newer. One is a rental from NY, the other is privately owned from NJ. The keyfobs are slightly different (the privately owned one has a remote start button, though I don't think it works, just like every other GM remote start remote I've seen, I think it's generic). 

Anyway, my question comes in here: both keys are *identical*. Same exact cut. Not just close, but the same. Clearly the chips don't allow the wrong key to start the car, however, I tested it, and the door opens without the alarm going off. 

I know way back in the day you'd hear about situations like this, where a worn key would open and start a different car, and from what I understand it was fairly common. But identical? THat's too close to be random happenstance. 

Any input on this odd situation?


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## mraguilar (Sep 27, 2004)

VDub2625 said:


> I work in a hotel, and part of my job is valet...
> 
> So we have a few guests in tonight, and two cars (as of now). Both are silver Impalas, same generation (2006-2014), one is an '08 and the other looks a bit newer. One is a rental from NY, the other is privately owned from NJ. The keyfobs are slightly different (the privately owned one has a remote start button, though I don't think it works, just like every other GM remote start remote I've seen, I think it's generic).
> 
> ...


I have seen this in other kind of keys (House, lockers, you name it) where the combinations are the same, so it is very unlikely that your neighbor have the same key as yours.


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## z0d (Oct 13, 2009)

VDub2625 said:


> Anyway, my question comes in here: both keys are *identical*. Same exact cut. Not just close, but the same. Clearly the chips don't allow the wrong key to start the car, however, I tested it, and the door opens without the alarm going off.
> 
> I know way back in the day you'd hear about situations like this, where a worn key would open and start a different car, and from what I understand it was fairly common. But identical? THat's too close to be random happenstance.
> 
> Any input on this odd situation?


Yeah, there's only so many different cuts. That's why things like this and this work.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Interesting. VW uses a code for the lock, to identify the tumblers. THey have 4 tumbler shapes, and 6 positions to put them in. So i guess it's really just a math problem to figure out how many combinations you would need. The GM keys look shorter, so maybe they have less tumblers and thus less total combinations. 

I guess, if I gathered 64 different GMs, the chances of at least two of them having the same key must be 100%.


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## 2112 (Jun 21, 2004)

Not so much a car question, as a car sales question...

Say you are trading in your car on a new car. The person doing the appraisal on your trade hops in for a quick drive and gets in an accident. Is it safe to assume the dealership assumes responsibility for that? (Purely hypothetical, this has never actually happened to me lol)


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## lyonsroar (Dec 5, 2012)

I used to work for CarMax. That happened occasionally. That's why the dealer has insurance.


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## robr2 (May 5, 2005)

2112 said:


> Not so much a car question, as a car sales question...
> 
> Say you are trading in your car on a new car. The person doing the appraisal on your trade hops in for a quick drive and gets in an accident. Is it safe to assume the dealership assumes responsibility for that? (Purely hypothetical, this has never actually happened to me lol)


The dealership has insurance to cover itself in these types of instances. Personally I would let my insurer know as the dealer's insurer would probably advise them.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

It's the car that's insured, not the driver. Your car would be covered under your insurance. It is up to the insurance company to go after the dealer after they pay for your damages.

I have what's called "care and custody" coverage for my business that covers rental cars and rental equipment, or anything that belongs to someone else. If my building were to build down the building would be covered, but the contents would have to be insured separately.


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## Kyle C (Jan 7, 2002)

New dumb-ish question: How is the roof of a car typically attached to the rest of the body/structure? Spot weld? Duct tape? Gorilla glue?

Reason for the question, there are cars, such as the M3, where the roof is available in either steel, or carbon fiber. I've heard of people having a body shop install a factory CF roof in a non M3 3 series. Obviously you can't weld in a CF roof, so I'm curious.


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

My guess is panel adhesive.


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## helement2003 (Aug 3, 2004)

Rob Cote said:


> My guess is panel adhesive.


Isn't this why some Vette's had their roof blow off?


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## Ubel GLI (Nov 17, 2006)

Depends on the material. Steel to steel is spot welded, aluminum and CF will use adhesive. Usually 3Ms crazy strong auto adhesives :thumbup:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I know with my car, there is spot welding along the sides, and becuase the roof panel isn't completely seperate from the C pillars, some wleding and bodywork at the top corner where the panels meet. The underside is glued to the spot-welded braces.

The roof skin is just that, a skin, usually the only structural supportive roof pieces are the edges.


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

Rob Cote said:


> My guess is panel adhesive.


 You, sir, are correct.
It's installed (even from the factory) with structural adhesive. Really crazy-stupid-strong structural adhesive.

(hell, even sometimes the car's actual structure is glued on. Witness E6x (5' and 6' series) cars, where the entire front structure is built (and, also secured to the cabin) with rivets and glue.


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## Kyle C (Jan 7, 2002)

Ok, thanks folks. Next question: what is"panel adhesive"? Epoxy, polyeurethane, Elmers paste, etc?


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

Kyle C said:


> Ok, thanks folks. Next question: what is"panel adhesive"? Epoxy, polyeurethane, Elmers paste, etc?


I believe Elmer's is an approved alternate.


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## Old Windy (Apr 1, 2009)

Kyle C said:


> Ok, thanks folks. Next question: what is"panel adhesive"? Epoxy, polyeurethane, Elmers paste, etc?


CF Age Elmer's FTW, strong enough for school, strong enough for cars. 

On another note, any idea how do this adhesives behave with temperature changes? Do they crack with age?


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## robr2 (May 5, 2005)

barry2952 said:


> It's the car that's insured, not the driver. Your car would be covered under your insurance. It is up to the insurance company to go after the dealer after they pay for your damages.
> 
> I have what's called "care and custody" coverage for my business that covers rental cars and rental equipment, or anything that belongs to someone else. If my building were to build down the building would be covered, but the contents would have to be insured separately.


Depends on the state. In MA, your insurance follows you no matter what car you drive. If I were to drive my father's car, my insurance takes car of it. If I drive a vehicle belonging to my employer or in the care of my employer, then the business' insurance is responsible.


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## robr2 (May 5, 2005)

Old Windy said:


> On another note, any idea how do this adhesives behave with temperature changes? Do they crack with age?


Just like any industrial product, all these adhesives are tested to meet expectations. I interviewed with an automotive adhesive manufacturer 20 years ago. They had been supplying many auto companies for many years at that time - IIRC, Ford and BMW were big customers as well as the aftermarket and repair markets.

Your car has been partially held together with glue for a long time...


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## clutchrider (Dec 11, 2010)

Ubel GLI said:


> Depends on the material. Steel to steel is spot welded, aluminum and CF will use adhesive. Usually 3Ms crazy strong auto adhesives :thumbup:


So what would be the difference against the brands/people who tout that their roofs are laser welded? I'm not a bragger but my GLI's roof has a clean drainage seem and none of that horrible looking rubber stripping that fades and ages so quickly. If anything it just makes it a cleaner look, is there any real benefit beyond that?


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

clutchrider said:


> Is there any real benefit beyond that?


Dude, frickin' LASERS!


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

clutchrider said:


> So what would be the difference against the brands/people who tout that their roofs are laser welded? I'm not a bragger but my GLI's roof has a clean drainage seem and none of that horrible looking rubber stripping that fades and ages so quickly. If anything it just makes it a cleaner look, is there any real benefit beyond that?


Yeah, if you turn it pours water into your window  

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk 2


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## clutchrider (Dec 11, 2010)

VDub2625 said:


> Yeah, if you turn it pours water into your window
> 
> Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk 2


I did have to learn myself to not open them right after a rainstorm.


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## shimps1 (Jul 22, 2012)

clutchrider said:


> So what would be the difference against the brands/people who tout that their roofs are laser welded? I'm not a bragger but my GLI's roof has a clean drainage seem and none of that horrible looking rubber stripping that fades and ages so quickly. If anything it just makes it a cleaner look, is there any real benefit beyond that?


I remember when shopping for my GLI the salesman listed that as a benefit. Laser welded seams, so ugly rubber up there to rot away. Also adds strength to the frame.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

shimps1 said:


> I remember when shopping for my GLI the salesman listed that as a benefit. Laser welded seams, so ugly rubber up there to rot away. Also adds strength to the frame.


I'm not sure I believe that... my Jettas roof line is welded along the edge too, under the rubber, but it's not structural, as the roof skin has no load beading on it. 

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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

VDub2625 said:


> I'm not sure I believe that... my Jettas roof line is welded along the edge too, under the rubber, but it's not structural, as the roof skin has no load beading on it.
> 
> Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk 2


 its about limiting twisting to the rest of the frame it's welded to. it's akin to boxing in a frame. that's how it makes the frame more rigid.

it's the reason cars with roofs are more rigid than convertibles.


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## Ubel GLI (Nov 17, 2006)

TwoLitreVW said:


> its about limiting twisting to the rest of the frame it's welded to. it's akin to boxing in a frame. that's how it makes the frame more rigid.
> 
> it's the reason cars with roofs are more rigid than convertibles.


While your train of thought is true (chassis twist, etc) most roofs are spot welded all along the perimeter anyway, they're just not thick enough to be of any real help with twist. I don't know for a fact, but I think VW did this as an aesthetic thing and maybe as a cost savings.


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## Diamond Dave (Mar 24, 2001)

VDub2625 said:


> I'm not sure I believe that... my Jettas roof line is welded along the edge too, under the rubber, but it's not structural, as the roof skin has no load beading on it.


There's skeletal structure of the car (that utilize a frame like the one under your hood) and then there's the act of tying a large panel in to that skeletal structure to increase rigidity. Normal seams are typically pinched together and then spot welded at interval spacing (maybe 8" apart) and that helps to create a rigid structure in a unibody car. A semi-common practice in racing is called "seam welding" or "stitch welding" to increase stiffness. When you stitch weld the seams, you are placing welds every 1-2" and this decreases the flex dramatically (for better and for worse).


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Thanks for the replies... but I know about the roof structure and the benefits of seam welding,I just meant that the roof skin was laser welded to the panels above the doors... that does not increase rigidity in the body, I don't think, because if it did, it would flex and crack paint  the rigidity of the body is determined by how the roof rails are welded, isn't it?

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## BluMagic (Apr 9, 2008)

My car is pretty low... yet i am still baffled how touring cars seem to always tuck wheel and get around a track really fast.

Do they hit the fender often with the wheel? or are their steering inputs really that small?

I get the "How do you turn" question a lot myself, so i feel like the old man outside the grocery store talking to myself :laugh:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Wide body and very stiff suspension that doesn't allow a lot of upward travel. 

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk 2


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

*FV-QR*

Neither. The wheel house is clearanced for the wheel and it's movement. Some people say the wheel house has been 'tubbed'. Look at a drag car with those big steel wheel boxes in there to make room for the rolling stock. Same concept. It also helps that they have the scrub radius, camber, caster, roll center, bump stop, etc. corrected so the wheel moves the way that it is supposed to throughout the range of suspension motion.


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## Diamond Dave (Mar 24, 2001)

VDub2625 said:


> I just meant that the roof skin was laser welded to the panels above the doors... that does not increase rigidity in the body, I don't think, because if it did, it would flex and crack paint  the rigidity of the body is determined by how the roof rails are welded, isn't it?


So you really have no idea how it works, but you feel comfortable arguing your "understanding"?

Yes, it flexes already. The paint might not be cracked today, but come back in 10yrs. Yes the roof skeleton contributes to rigidity. So does the roof panel.


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

JUSTINCASE1021 said:


> why were some 2002 golfs called the "337" ???


6 speed trans, recaros, bbs rc, and a body kit

also, all silver, 1500 of them, larger rotors up front, and stiffer lower suspension


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Diamond Dave said:


> So you really have no idea how it works, but you feel comfortable arguing your "understanding"?


I'm explaining how I understand it, trying to understand it correctly... I thought this thread was a no judgement zone. But thanks for the help.


71DubBugBug said:


> 6 speed trans, recaros, bbs rc, and a body kit
> 
> also, all silver, 1500 of them, larger rotors up front, and stiffer lower suspension


They were called the 337 because it was the European 25th anniversary edition (of the GTI, 1976-2001/2), but they called it by the code name for the mk1 golf here- project 337, since it wasn't any anniversary of anything in the USA.

We got the 20th anniversary (USA GTI 1983-2003) a year later. 

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## 2SlowGLS (Jan 17, 2005)

Although I drove a manual car for about 2-3 years...I always wondered, do I have to push the clutch all the way down when I shift? Can I just push it in far enough so that it'll engage when I let go? What is the long-term damage (if any) to doing this?

Side note: I taught myself how to drive a manual car.


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## hipster. (May 3, 2012)

2SlowGLS said:


> Although I drove a manual car for about 2-3 years...I always wondered, do I have to push the clutch all the way down when I shift? Can I just push it in far enough so that it'll engage when I let go? What is the long-term damage (if any) to doing this?
> 
> Side note: I taught myself how to drive a manual car.


I'm sure I'll be corrected if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty certain you only need to push the clutch in enough for it to engage. Different cars, different transmissions, clutches, etch have different engagement points. Pushing down further than you need to is just going to make your shifts a bit rougher since now when you're pulling off the clutch you're trying to "find" the engagement point again while revving the gas.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

You should be able to feel the clutch "grab". In most cars, it's ROUGHLY like this:

Top---begin release---------slipping---------fully released-----bottom

There is usually some distance between completely released and the end of the pedal... in standard driving, you need to make sure the clutch is completely released before changing gear, or you're making the syncros work harder to fight a slipping clutch. 

When people say a clutch is "high", it's because the beginning of the release (and consequently, the end) is further up the pedal (they happen closer to the top than the bottom). New clutches do this since as the friction material wears, the clutch engagement drops too, until there's a point that you can't even completely release it. Some clutch engagement parts are adjustable (either automatically or manually), to adjust where on the pedal the clutch engagement happens too.

If you drive a manual, you're aware that they aren't "on/off"... there's a slipping gray area in the middle, and you should be able to feel the beginning and end of that area.

Side note... I always get confused which end of a clutch is "engaged"... so I used "release" in this example to try and make it clear.

Again, as long as the clutch is completely released as you shift, you won't wear syncros or the clutch itself. There should be no extra time to "find" the engagement point and rev match if you push the pedal to the floor, it should happen quickly and automatically in your head. 

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## hipster. (May 3, 2012)

*FV-QR*

^^ That's about what I meant. I should have said release for the first portion of my explanation. My volvo's release point is super high up, so if you push past it you're just going to make the car buck when you pull your foot back up for the engagement. It's pretty funny watching someone try to drive my brick for the first time, always stalls.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

hipster. said:


> ^^ That's about what I meant. I should have said release for the first portion of my explanation. My volvo's release point is super high up, so if you push past it you're just going to make the car buck when you pull your foot back up for the engagement. It's pretty funny watching someone try to drive my brick for the first time, always stalls.


Sounds like you're not releasing it all the way, and if you do, you take your foot off the clutch too fast with not enough gas and causing it to buck. You should practice that more. The engagement should be smooth and not feel like anything, really. I usually can get a shift done in the amount of time it takes for the revs to freefall to the next gear, so there's no fumbling with the gas to make it match manually. I suppose I give it a little extra gas right as I push the clutch to give it a bump and keep the revs up (new cars do that automatically for emissions reasons, it's called "rev hang").

You're going to wear the clutch faster if you keep shifting like that.

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk 2


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## hipster. (May 3, 2012)

VDub2625 said:


> Sounds like you're not releasing it all the way, and if you do, you take your foot off the clutch too fast with not enough gas and causing it to buck. You should practice that more. The engagement should be smooth and not feel like anything, really. I usually can get a shift done in the amount of time it takes for the revs to freefall to the next gear, so there's no fumbling with the gas to make it match manually. I suppose I give it a little extra gas right as I push the clutch to give it a bump and keep the revs up (new cars do that automatically for emissions reasons, it's called "rev hang").
> 
> You're going to wear the clutch faster if you keep shifting like that.
> 
> Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk 2



Wait, what are you talking about? I've been driving manual cars for over 10 years. My volvo shifts fine, it just needs a new return spring. It only bucks if you push the clutch to the ground and then pull your foot back up thinking the engagement is mid way, it's not, it's a the top of the pedal because of the spring. :thumbup:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Ah, thought you were engaging the clutch too quick at the wrong revs. Didn't know there was anything wrong with your car, that affects how it drives and isn't really applicable here, i don't think.

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## hipster. (May 3, 2012)

VDub2625 said:


> Ah, thought you were engaging the clutch too quick at the wrong revs. Didn't know there was anything wrong with your car, that affects how it drives and isn't really applicable here, i don't think.
> 
> Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk 2


Just using it as an example of "not all cars shift/clutch" the same. Depending on the age of the car and type of clutch, etc. Makes me miss my E30


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## Bognostraclum (Jun 16, 2010)

I have a noob question: When people roll their fenders, what happens with the mudguards in the wheel well? Do they modify them or just throw them out? It just seems odd to throw these away since they protect the entire inner fender from stonechips and muck?


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

Bognostraclum said:


> I have a noob question: When people roll their fenders, what happens with the mudguards in the wheel well? Do they modify them or just throw them out? It just seems odd to throw these away since they protect the entire inner fender from stonechips and muck?


They usually have enough flex to compensate for the minor movement of the fender. At least that's been my experience. YMMV.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I kept mine, it either sits in the fender still, but at an odd angle, or it doesn't, and there's a slight gap, but the bolts keep it in place so not a lot of water gets through.

If you go extremely, utterly low, you have to take them out because they rub, but that would be a trailer queen car, anyway. 

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## bsmack (Oct 16, 2008)

If someone is detailing your car, how much do you tip them? I know this is case-by-case, so I'll list the facts:
-Does this (and only this) for a living
-Detail costs $350+ (interior+exterior)

Do you tip at all? Last detailer I had was someone that worked for a shop and was getting paid hourly so I tipped him. Was also about 1/4 the price but still came out great.


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

bsmack said:


> If someone is detailing your car, how much do you tip them? I know this is case-by-case, so I'll list the facts:
> -Does this (and only this) for a living
> -Detail costs $350+ (interior+exterior)
> 
> Do you tip at all? Last detailer I had was someone that worked for a shop and was getting paid hourly so I tipped him. Was also about 1/4 the price but still came out great.


At that price.. I don't think I would tip.
Even if it took him all day (8 hours) he's still making over $40/hr. That's a lot of money for washing a car. But then again... I'd never pay someone $350. to do so in the first place.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

More engineering:

I noticed that VW specifies different motor mounts for some cars, if they were sold in California (ie. rubber vs. hydraulic). Is there any apparent reason for this?


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

VDub2625 said:


> More engineering:
> 
> I noticed that VW specifies different motor mounts for some cars, if they were sold in California (ie. rubber vs. hydraulic). Is there any apparent reason for this?


I haven't noticed that, but I'm assuming it's because of California's strict hazardous material/waste regulations. Hydraulic ones probably have chemicals they don't want getting on the roads or being thrown away.


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## Ender_ (Mar 16, 2011)

VDub2625 said:


> More engineering:
> 
> I noticed that VW specifies different motor mounts for some cars, if they were sold in California (ie. rubber vs. hydraulic). Is there any apparent reason for this?


If i were to guess i would i say that the rubber might dry out and crack earlier in very hot/dry climates like California making hydraulic the better choice?

EDIT: I guess i was wrong based on the reply above me. Oh well.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

mellbergVWfan said:


> I haven't noticed that, but I'm assuming it's because of California's strict hazardous material/waste regulations. Hydraulic ones probably have chemicals they don't want getting on the roads or being thrown away.


Very interesting theory, and I thought that might be the case, but it seems some have hydraulic mounts when others in 49 states have rubber. 

For example, the 1990 Jetta is specified in VW's parts program with a rubber mount for the RV engine with automatic transmission in 49 states, and a hydraulic mounting in California. I thought it might be an isolated case but there are differences specified for almost every year (and other things too, like some years the dual downpipe, 102hp engine is listed for CA on base models, and in other years it's the 100hp, single-downpipe version, even though both were available in the same year in the rest of the country).


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## romanl (Apr 2, 2010)

I'm at 70,xxx miles. Will be getting new tires in another 2 month or so. 
Should I get an alignment before or after new tires go on?
I'm still on originals ContiProContacts( about 56k and the rest on my winters)
I feel like car pulls very slightly to the right. Tire wear seems to be pretty even, with maybe a mill of two more wear in the inside vs outside of the tires on the right side of the car. But hard to tell since they are on their last breath


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## JettaMobile (Jan 6, 2009)

Doesn't matter when you get it done. Removing the wheel/tire assembly does not affect alignment.

With that said, most people just get an alignment when they have the new tires mounted in one trip.

As an FYI, slight pulling to the right can also be caused by road crowning (assuming you drive on the right side of the road  )


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## stevegmu (Jul 25, 2011)

I prefer to have the alignment checked at the time I get tires mounted and balanced. Helps with the warranty if there is an issue, if the shop that sold and installed the tires also did the alignment. They can't go back and say the tires wore unevenly because the alignment was off. I also have the alignment checked at the time of rotation.


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## JettaMobile (Jan 6, 2009)

stevegmu said:


> I prefer to have the alignment checked at the time I get tires mounted and balanced. Helps with the warranty if there is an issue, if the shop that sold and installed the tires also did the alignment. They can't go back and say the tires wore unevenly because the alignment was off. I also have the alignment checked at the time of rotation.


That's good advice wrt the warranty. Didn't think of that :thumbup: :beer:


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## romanl (Apr 2, 2010)

^^ thanks guys, 
so when i was in discount tire with my g/f getting her tires rotated (we got her latest set there) i asked about some of the tires i was interested in and asked about alignment and Discount Tire said they dont do it in-house but work with a shop near by, etc and give you some small discount. 
as far as getting alignment checked during every rotation (every 10K miles) dont you have to pay every time?
and how much does alignment typically run? what big chain shops would you recommend for it?


----------



## stevegmu (Jul 25, 2011)

romanl said:


> ^^ thanks guys,
> so when i was in discount tire with my g/f getting her tires rotated (we got her latest set there) i asked about some of the tires i was interested in and asked about alignment and Discount Tire said they dont do it in-house but work with a shop near by, etc and give you some small discount.
> as far as getting alignment checked during every rotation (every 10K miles) dont you have to pay every time?
> and how much does alignment typically run? what big chain shops would you recommend for it?


Every chain has their own policies. There is no good chain or bad tire chain. How they are run makes all the difference in the world. I like my local Goodyear shop. They order tires for me from Tire Rack, since they don't sell anything good that fits my car. They make the money on the mounting and balancing and alignment. I recently got an alignment for $84 after tax. It is good for 6 months or 6000 miles whichever comes first, and they will re-align it once during that time period. This works out well, since my alignment and tire rotation are on the same schedule, so I have the alignment checked when I get the tires rotated.


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## cberwald (Sep 11, 2011)

romanl said:


> ^^ thanks guys,
> so when i was in discount tire with my g/f getting her tires rotated (we got her latest set there) i asked about some of the tires i was interested in and asked about alignment and Discount Tire said they dont do it in-house but work with a shop near by, etc and give you some small discount.
> as far as getting alignment checked during every rotation (every 10K miles) dont you have to pay every time?
> and how much does alignment typically run? what big chain shops would you recommend for it?


Discount Tire only deals with tires and rims –*they don't do suspension work or alignments. Typically and alignment isn't something that needs to be done often anyway


----------



## Lifelong Obsession (Jul 24, 2011)

Why does Colorado use mg-chloride to melt ice (which is less corrosive), but the Northeast and Midwest are still using salt?


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Lifelong Obsession said:


> Why does Colorado use mg-chloride to melt ice (which is less corrosive), but the Northeast and Midwest are still using salt?


Because I believe that Michigan and Ohio have the largest salt mines in the world. I believe that Detroit is sitting right on top of one of the biggest.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*FV-QR*

Seems mg-cl also works at a lower temperature, and maybe salt is cheaper at this point?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

VDub2625 said:


> Seems mg-cl also works at a lower temperature, and maybe salt is cheaper at this point?


They are pre-treating the roads around here with a liquid that melts the initial drop of snow everywhere, leading to fewer traffic problems as the roads stay clear in light snowfalls.

Salt kill our roads. It gets to the rerod and rusts it, expanding its diameter with great force, popping off the top layer. I see a big future for carbon fiber in road construction. It's impervious to just about everything.


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## dr.pepperuwm (Nov 14, 2007)

VDub2625 said:


> Seems mg-cl also works at a lower temperature, and maybe salt is cheaper at this point?


If retail price is indicative of bulk pricing, then salt is waaaaaaaay cheaper. At least in Wisconsin.


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

When are they "done"?


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Rob Cote said:


> When are they "done"?



right before you put a fork in em.


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## CodeMan (May 12, 2006)

VDub2625 said:


> Seems mg-cl also works at a lower temperature, and maybe salt is cheaper at this point?


Mag chloride freezes at about 8 I believe. They won't spray it here if it's 12 or lower.


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## JettaMobile (Jan 6, 2009)

Magnesium chloride (MgCl2) is a salt. Just like calcium chloride (CaCl2) and sodium chloride (NaCl aka table salt). They all ionize when dissolved in water so they are all corrosive.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

I had nothing to add.... I'm just interested in the salted roads thing...


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## dorkage (Jul 7, 2009)

Headlight aiming question. 

I'm doing a retrofit in my MK4 golf headlights. I am retaining the stock halogen highbeams and will have bixenon projectors. I kind of forgot to mark off where the OEM lowbeam cutoff was relative to the highbeam hot spot. Is there any standard to where to line up the lowbeam cutoff relative to the highbeam?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I was always under the impression that high beams have no dip, meaning that 25ft, the beam should be at the same height and direction. 

That's how foods and driving/extra high beams are aligned.

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk 2


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## dorkage (Jul 7, 2009)

I understand how to align the low beams while the are on the car, but I want to get the projectors aligned in the housing before going in the car. Meaning just aligning the cutoff of the lows to the high beam.

I.attempted to attach a crappy drawing of how I imagine they lamps are suppose to be aligned.
* being the halogen high. Is like that correct?


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## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

This question was inspired by a recent article from Automobile: 

Basically, the new A8 (420hp) does 0-60 in 3.9 secs! In the same issue, the new c7 corvette (450hp) does it in 4.1. The TTRS (360hp) does it in 3.5-4.1. The BMW m5 (560hp) does it in 3.5. Heck, the new FF (660 hp) does it in 3.7. 

Now for the question: Considering that tha A8 weights much more than all these cars, getting below 4 secs is pretty darn good, considering that is has much less power, sans the TTRS. Does the A8 gear itself for these type of acceleration feats, or is it something else? Why would a flagship fully tank loaded LWB sedan out shoot these sportcars? Sure, the sport cars would own the top end, but am I comparing apples and oranges? It kept me up thinking about it. 

Go Audi! (shameless plug)....


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

rychas1 said:


> This question was inspired by a recent article from Automobile:
> 
> Basically, the new A8 (420hp) does 0-60 in 3.9 secs! In the same issue, the new c7 corvette (450hp) does it in 4.1. The TTRS (360hp) does it in 3.5-4.1. The BMW m5 (560hp) does it in 3.5. Heck, the new FF (660 hp) does it in 3.7.
> 
> ...


 this just might have something to do with it 

First Gear Ratio 1) * 4.714* 
Second Gear Ratio 1) 3.143 
Third Gear Ratio 1) 2.106 
Fourth Gear Ratio 1) 1.667 
Fifth Gear Ratio 1) 1.285 
Sixth Gear Ratio 1) 1.000 
Seventh Gear Ratio 1) 0.839 
Eighth Gear Ratio 1) 0.667 
Final Drive Axle Ratio 1) 3.204


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## VarianceVQ (Jun 26, 2005)

A mass of questions here: 

The Pathfinder needs a new CV axle on the front passenger side. I'm going to order a new one from PartsGeek or RockAuto. 

RockAuto seems to not distinguish between "left" and "right" (all of the axles seem to be listed for use on either side). PartsGeek has the same brands but broken down into "left" and "right" side. Firstly, are they interchangable and if not, would the driver side be "left" and passenger be "right"? 

Secondly, is an alignment part of getting a new CV axle installed? I ask because I planned on having this installed at a garage that I have used in the past but they told me before that they don't have an alignment machine. 

This actually isn't an issue if simply replacing the CV axle would fix the off-center steering wheel which is where the alignment concern lies (Would it? I know it would fix the wheel shake at high speed.)


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Left and right are always determined by your position in the driver's seat.


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## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

If a semi carrying a 12,444 ton ball bearing factory heading west on Rt. 62 traveling 82 mph passes another semi heading east carrying 192,006 pallets of Captain Crunch with Crunch berries traveling 96 mph,  How many miles would it take for the ball bearing factory truck to get turned around and catch the Captain Crunch driver's attention so they could both take a break and enjoy a bowl or two of pure Captain Crunch?  



 


As a 3 point bonus question:  how many more miles would it take to find a gas station that had some milk?


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## C4 A6 (Mar 8, 2011)

Does the F40 LM not have a reverse gear?


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## Quinn1.8t (Oct 8, 2006)

C4 A6 said:


> Does the F40 LM not have a reverse gear?


 I believe you are correct.


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## AudiA4_18T (Mar 15, 2006)

After seeing people discuss Porsches, I have to say I have absolutely 0 understanding of how their naming work... 

I know that 996 is a bodystyle... and 997 is a bodystyle, but is that only for Carreras? How does 911 fit into the mix? Are boxters/caymans different body styles? 

Is there a progression to show how the old numbers work between year ranges? Or do they overlap?


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## CostcoPizza (Jan 20, 2008)

AudiA4_18T said:


> After seeing people discuss Porsches, I have to say I have absolutely 0 understanding of how their naming work...
> 
> I know that 996 is a bodystyle... and 997 is a bodystyle, but is that only for Carreras? How does 911 fit into the mix? Are boxters/caymans different body styles?
> 
> Is there a progression to show how the old numbers work between year ranges? Or do they overlap?


 911 is the model 
Carrera is essentially a trim (i.e. non GT2, GT3 or turbo models) 
As you said 996, 997, etc are the body styles no matter the trim. 

examples. 1997 911 Carrera 2 would be a 993 model. So would a 1997 911 Turbo. 


Cayman and Boxster have bodystyle numbers too, for example the 986 (first gen), and 987 (second gen). 

As for progression the number actually went back for the latest 911, which is designated as the 991. The Boxster is 981, if you noticed, it follows an example of being 10 less.


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

AudiA4_18T said:


> After seeing people discuss Porsches, I have to say I have absolutely 0 understanding of how their naming work...
> 
> I know that 996 is a bodystyle... and 997 is a bodystyle, but is that only for Carreras? How does 911 fit into the mix? Are boxters/caymans different body styles?
> 
> Is there a progression to show how the old numbers work between year ranges? Or do they overlap?


 They're Porsche's internal model number. 
930,964,993,996,991, etc. are all Porsche's internal codes of their respective generation of 911's. The original 911 was the 901. 
All Porsche models have this internal code. I believe the Boxter was 987. They started way back with the 356, and continued it with their race cars (908,917,956,962 etc.) and their road cars until the currect day. I believe the number is assigned when the project starts, and therefor there may be some overlap from when a model is planned to when it's released.


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## AudiA4_18T (Mar 15, 2006)

mac dre said:


> 911 is the model
> Carrera is essentially a trim (i.e. non GT2, GT3 or turbo models)
> As you said 996, 997, etc are the body styles no matter the trim.
> 
> ...


 Ok what about all this 930/964/993 stuff? 

And is this not confusing to anyone else? I get bodystyles and models and I feel like I'm a pretty bright guy, but this is just tough to wrap my head around


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## CostcoPizza (Jan 20, 2008)

AudiA4_18T said:


> Ok what about all this 930/964/993 stuff?


 930 was the code for the 911 turbo from 1975-1989. After that they used one code for all 911's, even the turbos. 964 was the 911 from 89-94, and 993 was the 911 from 95-98.


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## robr2 (May 5, 2005)

AudiA4_18T said:


> Ok what about all this 930/964/993 stuff?
> 
> And is this not confusing to anyone else? I get bodystyles and models and I feel like I'm a pretty bright guy, but this is just tough to wrap my head around


 It confuses the crap out of me too. IMHO, it's important for Porsche and those who flaunt their knowledge... 

...says the guy who calls his station wagon a variant.:laugh:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

THe reason for the confusion is that the original 911 (1963-1989, known as the "911 classic") was the original internal designation and sales name for that model (just like the 356, and every other porsche when it was made). They had so much invested in that name, I suppose, that by 1989, when such a drastic upgrade to the basic engineering of the car called for a new internal designation, they just kept the sales name. 

Everything else is pretty distinct and easy to figure out from the code. Porsche used to give a new chassis code to drastically different engines in the same body, too (turbo, 4 cylinder, etc), since it is, in effect, a very different car as a whole. I guess they don't do it much anymore.


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## Thrice (Jan 6, 2004)

I've never had to deal with cars that lose any significant amount of oil so my question is; What would cause my minivan to be completely out of oil? (loaded question I know)

Driving it yesterday it sounds like I was dragging the oil pan on the ground or something so I stopped the van, checked and nothing was different under the van than the last time I checked so I went to the dipstick and it seemed that the engine had no oil. I checked the dipstick multiple times to make sure I wasn't crazy and it was coming out with nothing. I've never noticed a leak and it's only been about 4k miles since our last oil change (when we bought it used) so I didn't think it could burn 5 quarts that fast. I had 2 quarts leftover from my SRT-4 so I was able to put oil into the engine and I plan to take it to a shop and have them check it out but I'm just not experienced enough to know what else to check for as to why this happened.


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

Thrice said:


> I've never had to deal with cars that lose any significant amount of oil so my question is; What would cause my minivan to be completely out of oil? (loaded question I know)
> 
> Driving it yesterday it sounds like I was dragging the oil pan on the ground or something so I stopped the van, checked and nothing was different under the van than the last time I checked so I went to the dipstick and it seemed that the engine had no oil. I checked the dipstick multiple times to make sure I wasn't crazy and it was coming out with nothing. I've never noticed a leak and it's only been about 4k miles since our last oil change (when we bought it used) so I didn't think it could burn 5 quarts that fast. I had 2 quarts leftover from my SRT-4 so I was able to put oil into the engine and I plan to take it to a shop and have them check it out but I'm just not experienced enough to know what else to check for as to why this happened.


It either has to leak out, or be burned. What kind of van is it?
The dipstick only shows the top of the oil level. What I mean is that your van probably holds 5-6 quarts, and the stick will be dry if it's 2-3 quarts low. The dry dipstick doesn't necessarily mean it's lost_ all_ of it's oil.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Our E-350 ended up with no oil. It all ended up in the cooling system through an oil cooler. What a mess. Oil is still floating to the top of the reserve about 6 months after being repaired.


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## Thrice (Jan 6, 2004)

saron81 said:


> It either has to leak out, or be burned. What kind of van is it?
> The dipstick only shows the top of the oil level. What I mean is that your van probably holds 5-6 quarts, and the stick will be dry if it's 2-3 quarts low. The dry dipstick doesn't necessarily mean it's lost_ all_ of it's oil.


Fair enough, I did not know that (where is the embarrassed smiley). Thanks. It's a 2005 Honda Odyssey. Though the sounds was kinda ominous, like a mix between knocking and dragging metal, which combined with the dipstick lead me to believe I was completely out. Would the sound present itself if it was just low? Once I put the 2 quarts in the sound didn't come back. What I learned from this is it is really easily to change the oil on these vans so I think what I'll do is drain the oil pan and see how much oil comes out. If it's more than 2 I'll just know that it burns oil faster than I expected and maybe take it into a shop to make sure nothing else is wrong. 

Nevertheless I'm definitely getting myself and my wife in the habit of checking it a lot more often.


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## Gitcha Sum (May 27, 2008)

Why does nobody use electrically compressed air for forced induction?
Can you not generate enough power onboard to support an electric compressor? Are the losses more than superchargers or turbos?


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

Thrice said:


> Fair enough, I did not know that (where is the embarrassed smiley). Thanks. It's a 2005 Honda Odyssey. Though the sounds was kinda ominous, like a mix between knocking and dragging metal, which combined with the dipstick lead me to believe I was completely out. *Would the sound present itself if it was just low?* Once I put the 2 quarts in the sound didn't come back. What I learned from this is it is really easily to change the oil on these vans so I think what I'll do is drain the oil pan and see how much oil comes out. If it's more than 2 I'll just know that it burns oil faster than I expected and maybe take it into a shop to make sure nothing else is wrong.
> 
> Nevertheless I'm definitely getting myself and my wife in the habit of checking it a lot more often.


I have some bad news for you. 

That engine is damaged. You may be able to run it that way for a while, but it's definitely been hurt. If it's making sounds like that then your best case scenario is timing chain slap from low oil pressure. It's also possible the pistons weren't getting splash oiling like they should and/or the bearings were suffering from a loss of pressure. When you're full, there's plenty to go around and there's extra in there as a buffer, but when you're really low like you were, damage occurs.

How? When you mash the throttle or are on the highway (using power and revving a bit) you're drawing in oil at a pretty good rate. What happens is that vortices develop (just like when you let the water out of a bathtub) and when low enough the oil pickup sucks air with the oil. Oil pressure drops and you're left with engine damage to the bearings, cams and possibly timing system. Hopefully the sounds you heard were the timing chain slapping and not bearings/pistons. By the time you hear it, damage has occurred, but it's impossible to say how much.

Hopefully it's a negligible amount of damage and topping it off quelled the timing chain/tensioners. Keep an eye on it and if it seems fine, just don't let the oil level drop too much and if it's not hurt too much you can drive an engine like that for _years_. If she really runs through oil, check it at every fill-up. Every one. 

Make sure your wife understands that like mine doesn't. (Our old Sienna burned oil but I couldn't get her to check it at all, yours seems like a far more serious problem, though.)

Good luck. :beer:


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

deucestudios said:


> Why does nobody use electrically compressed air for forced induction?
> Can you not generate enough power onboard to support an electric compressor? Are the losses more than superchargers or turbos?


The electrical power required for that would be far greater than any alternator can produce. Look at the feed on a modest sized compressor. Sure, it's a lot more pressure than what a car can take, but it's only a small percentage of the volume. Cars go through massive amounts of air. :beer:


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## Body Hauler (Sep 4, 2002)

So behind the clutch(manual)/brake(auto) there is a plunger that is pushed in when the pedal is applied to start the car. If that plunger is taped down will it cause and damage to the car?


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## z0d (Oct 13, 2009)

Body Hauler said:


> So behind the clutch(manual)/brake(auto) there is a plunger that is pushed in when the pedal is applied to start the car. If that plunger is taped down will it cause and damage to the car?


It depends on what all other systems are part of the car. Many cruise control systems will shut off when the clutch is depressed, which is what it might think is happening.

There's more to it than that, I'm sure. AFAIK, the NSS has something to do with brake and reverse light operation, and could also impact things like deceleration fuel cut-off, which is often disabled under braking. But someone who knows more about that should hopefully chime in.


----------



## Ubel GLI (Nov 17, 2006)

deucestudios said:


> Why does nobody use electrically compressed air for forced induction?
> Can you not generate enough power onboard to support an electric compressor? Are the losses more than superchargers or turbos?


It used to be an issue but electric turbos are coming. Don't you worry!


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

Body Hauler said:


> So behind the clutch(manual)/brake(auto) there is a plunger that is pushed in when the pedal is applied to start the car. If that plunger is taped down will it cause any damage to the car?


It's a safety interlock that disables the starter if the pedal isn't pressed. In manuals it was put in there so that the car couldn't be started in gear with the clutch out, as that makes the car move as soon as the starter is engaged. Some cars will start right up while in gear and just take off! 

I popped a clutch cable a couple (three?) decades ago in one of my old Beetles, so I started it in neutral, let the engine warm and shut it off. Then I simply put it in first, started the car (no, it wasn't smooth!) and drove off in first gear. If your shifts are smooth, timed correctly and judicious with the throttle you can go up and down the gears with no clutch at all. If you come to a stop light or traffic forces you to stop then you _must_ shut off the engine to be able to go again, so make sure the battery is in good shape if you want to get it home like that! :laugh:

Automatics are a little different. They've (nearly?) always had a neutral safety switch that only lets you start it in park or neutral, but after the Audi unintended acceleration law suit Audi retrofitted their cars (through a recall campaign) with a brake pedal interlock that wouldn't let it shift out of park unless the brake pedal was depressed. It was quickly made into law and all autos are that way today.

The ironic part? The woman that started the suit against Audi admitted to her neighbor at the time that she got the throttle and brake confused. She ran her daughter through the back of the garage, so I suppose I don't blame her for not being able to deal with killing her own daughter in a moment of panic. That would be hell to live with and far easier to blame a nameless faceless company instead of yourself. Yeah, it's her fault, but denial is understandable. As a dad, I can't imagine the feeling.


----------



## SquishyPanda (Apr 1, 2013)

Body Hauler said:


> So behind the clutch(manual)/brake(auto) there is a plunger that is pushed in when the pedal is applied to start the car. If that plunger is taped down will it cause and damage to the car?


On older cars it seems to not be a problem. The clutch safety switch on my old Honda died, and it as great because if I was working on something and needed to start the engine I could just reach through the window and turn the key (after making sure the transmission was in neutral, of course)


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

Ubel GLI said:


> It used to be an issue but electric turbos are coming. Don't you worry!


I can't imagine they'll be here until the 42 volt systems become standard.

When is that supposed to happen, anyway? I would think it would be a big help when it comes to electrical gremlins.


----------



## Ubel GLI (Nov 17, 2006)

Air and water do mix said:


> I can't imagine they'll be here until the 42 volt systems become standard.
> 
> When is that supposed to happen, anyway? I would think it would be a big help when it comes to electrical gremlins.


I don't think 42 is ever coming, at least not any time soon. I haven't seen any mentions of any 42V projects from any OEMs and that spans 10+ years into the future. There are other tricks to make it work.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

z0d said:


> It depends on what all other systems are part of the car. Many cruise control systems will shut off when the clutch is depressed, which is what it might think is happening.
> 
> There's more to it than that, I'm sure. AFAIK, the NSS has something to do with brake and reverse light operation, and *could also impact things like deceleration fuel cut-off, which is often disabled under braking.* But someone who knows more about that should hopefully chime in.


That's quite possible, but I know that _wasn't_ the case. I remember reading that one of the decisions made when OBDII came on-line was that the drivetrain shock of the brakes being applied should be taken into consideration, but it was decided (by government regulators I suppose) that having a brake light switch as part of the emission control system was not practical. That may be _completely_ out of date now since we're dealing with CAN/BUS systems and whatnot. :beer:

The same could be true of cruise control shutoff. Many (most?) _used_ to have a secondary switch wired solely to the cruise control system, but it's probable that with computer control of throttle/cruise that it's simply an input _to_ the computer and _it_ lights the brake lights/shut off the cruise.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

Ubel GLI said:


> I don't think 42 is ever coming, at least not any time soon. I haven't seen any mentions of any 42V projects from any OEMs and that spans 10+ years into the future. There are other tricks to make it work.


Really? I wouldn't have ever guessed it would have been more than 10 years out. :beer:


----------



## feels_road (Jan 27, 2005)

Air and water do mix said:


> The electrical power required for that would be far greater than any alternator can produce.


You only need the (or an enlarged) battery to produce the power if the car is likely only driven under boost for a fraction of the time. So, in a hybrid or plug-in hybrid it would be a theoretical option. However, due to the double conversion: mechanical --> electrical --> mechanical, the losses are still much larger than for a directly-driven supercharger or turbocharger (which only adds some back pressure losses). And the "free" hybrid battery power is better used directly via an electric motor.

The only other design ideas I have seen are using compressed air to store brake energy (instead of batteries), in which case you can apportion some of that air to charging, and the other to driving the engine directly (similar to a steam engine).


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## freedo84gti (Sep 26, 2010)

why are usually high performence cars that look like a wagon called "shooting brakes"?


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

dont think i have asked this yet
some of the older american v12s have 4 exhaust pipes on each side 

are the exhaust ports of a couple of the cylinders merged inside the heads? 









anyone have technical drawings of the heads? purely for my curiosity


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Thrice said:


> it's only been about 4k miles since our last oil change (when we bought it used)





Thrice said:


> It's a 2005 Honda Odyssey.


Did you buy it from a private party, or a dealer? THat sounds like a major problem that they should have made you aware of. if you find the source of the consumption and can have it proven that it wasn't just a random happenstance, you might be able to return it for a refund, private or dealer.


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## Diamond Dave (Mar 24, 2001)

saron81 said:


> What I mean is that your van probably holds 5-6 quarts, and the stick will be dry if it's 2-3 quarts low.


In most applications, the measured portion of the dip stick represents 1Qt.


----------



## Diamond Dave (Mar 24, 2001)

freedo84gti said:


> why are usually high performence cars that look like a wagon called "shooting brakes"?


Not necessarily a term for _high performance cars_, Shooting brake refers to a open rear body style and often derived from 2dr coupes. It's basically a wagon.

Traditionally, the term Coupe referred to a stylized 2dr variant of a sedan (not only meaning 2drs). Many coupes have noticeably different coachwork aft of the B-pillar than their 4dr cousins. Similarly, while wagons are based off of 4dr cars, Shooting Brakes are based off of 2dr coupes. Yes there are many exceptions, but this is a general overview. The reason they're called _Shooting Brakes_ is literally because they were used for hunting or shooting parties.


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

71DubBugBug said:


> dont think i have asked this yet
> some of the older american v12s have 4 exhaust pipes on each side
> 
> are the exhaust ports of a couple of the cylinders merged inside the heads?
> ...


Yes. They are merged inside the block. You're showing a flat head engine with valves in the block. The outer set of cylinders gets their own exhaust port, while the middle 2, or 4, are siamesed, meaning that two different cylinders exhaust into the same port. 










If you're looking for an actual cylinder head with siamesed ports, look for an old Studebaker v8, or an original mini.


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## Thrice (Jan 6, 2004)

Air and water do mix said:


> I have some bad news for you.
> 
> That engine is damaged. You may be able to run it that way for a while, but it's definitely been hurt. If it's making sounds like that then your best case scenario is timing chain slap from low oil pressure. It's also possible the pistons weren't getting splash oiling like they should and/or the bearings were suffering from a loss of pressure. When you're full, there's plenty to go around and there's extra in there as a buffer, but when you're really low like you were, damage occurs.
> 
> ...


Sorry for the delay but thanks for the informed response. I do plan on checking at every fill up now just to be on the safe side. Is there really anyway to know what's going on/what's happened in there without incurring a huge expense? I got a PPI on the van and everything checked out but I know that doesn't really mean a whole lot in the end because I could have just been fed a line of bull.


----------



## VWestlife (Sep 29, 2004)

freedo84gti said:


> why are usually high performence cars that look like a wagon called "shooting brakes"?


From everybody's favorite source, Wikipedia:



> A brake was originally a robust carriage chassis hooked to spirited horses to "break" them.
> 
> A shooting-brake became a variation of a wagonette—a vehicle with longitudinal seats in rows with either a rear door or side doors—provided with game and gun racks and accommodation for ammunition.


Eventually the term came to automobiles, to describe a coupe-based (usually 2-door) station wagon.

Also sometimes the British refer to a regular 4-door station wagon as a "break" or "brake".


----------



## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

Where is the engine temperature sensor/thermostat on an air-cooled engine and how does it work?


----------



## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

DonPatrizio said:


> Where is the engine temperature sensor/thermostat on an air-cooled engine and how does it work?


Most likely an oil temp or cylinder head temp sensor. :thumbup:


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

saron81 said:


> Most likely an oil temp or cylinder head temp sensor. :thumbup:




This.

Pretty sure they relied on oil temp to have an idea of what was going on in the air-cooled applications.


----------



## VWestlife (Sep 29, 2004)

TwoLitreVW said:


> Pretty sure they relied on oil temp to have an idea of what was going on in the air-cooled applications.


Air-cooled Porsche 911s came with three oil-related gauges in the instrument cluster: oil temperature, oil pressure, and oil level.


----------



## wagen6 (Jun 5, 2008)

Is oil seeping around the head gasket a normal scenario? and does it warrant an immediate fix?

some say it's okay since it comes with time other say if it's leak fix it. 

What do you guys think?


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

wagen6 said:


> Is oil seeping around the head gasket a normal scenario? and does it warrant an immediate fix?
> 
> some say it's okay since it comes with time other say if it's leak fix it.
> 
> What do you guys think?


That depends on where it's coming from. Track the source. If it's just seepage from the valve cover gasket simply tighten or seal it and see if it goes away. If the head gasket is breached you have to pull the head and replace the gasket of you could face other damage.


----------



## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

barry2952 said:


> That depends on where it's coming from. Track the source. If it's just seepage from the valve cover gasket simply tighten or seal it and see if it goes away. If the head gasket is breached you have to pull the head and replace the gasket of you could face other damage.


My level of concern in this situation is based on both engine mileage (specifically valve cover gasket mileage if it's already been replaced) and amount of seepage. In general, lots of seepage + low miles = high concern and the inverse is generally true also. It's sort of a rule of thumb, gut feel kinda thing.


----------



## wagen6 (Jun 5, 2008)

Rob Cote said:


> My level of concern in this situation is based on both engine mileage (specifically valve cover gasket mileage if it's already been replaced) and amount of seepage. In general, lots of seepage + low miles = high concern and the inverse is generally true also. It's sort of a rule of thumb, gut feel kinda thing.


Car has 180K; the chain, valve cover and head gasket have been replaced at 120K. The seeping hasn't led to droplets on the driveway, but it's grimy/fairly moist in some areas (near upper/lower timing chain cover). I change the oil every 5k religiously, and never had to add additional amounts between changes. 

Don't feel any power loss, car runs as good as new. My inclination is to ignore it until it tarts to show on pavement.


----------



## Rocco! (Mar 4, 2011)

Is it bad to have the AC running when you turn the car on or off? I have heard so, but never why.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Starting the engine under load from the compressor is the concern, but it's no big deal as electrical components are shut off while the starter motor is turning.


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## z0d (Oct 13, 2009)

Isambard said:


> Is it bad to have the AC running when you turn the car on or off? I have heard so, but never why.


People claim that doing so lets the moisture in the vents dry out and prevents mold, but that doesn't make a ton of sense since AC removes moisture from the air.


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## Rocco! (Mar 4, 2011)

barry2952 said:


> Starting the engine under load from the compressor is the concern, but it's no big deal as electrical components are shut off while the starter motor is turning.


Thanks :beer:



z0d said:


> People claim that doing so lets the moisture in the vents dry out and prevents mold, but that doesn't make a ton of sense since AC removes moisture from the air.


That's what I had heard and I came to the same conclusion as you. If it has been running before you turn the car off, there shouldn't be any moisture in the system, right?


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## z0d (Oct 13, 2009)

Isambard said:


> That's what I had heard and I came to the same conclusion as you. If it has been running before you turn the car off, there shouldn't be any moisture in the system, right?


Especially if you aren't recirculating air, which most newer cars won't let you do for more than a couple minutes.


----------



## iamdurkee (Jul 5, 2007)

Do Spacro stickers actually add horse power?


----------



## z0d (Oct 13, 2009)

iamdurkee said:


> Do Spacro stickers actually add horse power?


Don't be ridiculous. You need NOS stickers for that, or a turbo/GT-R/Type-R badge.


----------



## iamdurkee (Jul 5, 2007)

illing, im driving to autozone now.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

wagen6 said:


> Is oil seeping around the head gasket a normal scenario? and does it warrant an immediate fix?
> 
> some say it's okay since it comes with time other say if it's leak fix it.
> 
> What do you guys think?


If there's no major loss of oil over time, then it should be fine. Wah the engine down and see how fast it comes back. 



Isambard said:


> Is it bad to have the AC running when you turn the car on or off? I have heard so, but never why.





z0d said:


> People claim that doing so lets the moisture in the vents dry out and prevents mold, but that doesn't make a ton of sense since AC removes moisture from the air.


What happens is the a.c. condenser removes moisture from the air, but that moisture condenses on the evaporator, and drips out of the car, so the whole hvac system is dry except for that. It shouldn't hurt it to leave it on when turning the car off, though. 

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk 2


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Isambard said:


> Thanks :beer:
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I had heard and I came to the same conclusion as you. If it has been running before you turn the car off, there shouldn't be any moisture in the system, right?





z0d said:


> Especially if you aren't recirculating air, which most newer cars won't let you do for more than a couple minutes.


Recirculation would make less moisture than outside air, since the recirculated air in the car is already dry and the evaporator can't suck any more out.

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk 2


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## wagen6 (Jun 5, 2008)

barry2952 said:


> That depends on where it's coming from. Track the source. If it's just seepage from the valve cover gasket simply tighten or seal it and see if it goes away. If the head gasket is breached you have to pull the head and replace the gasket of you could face other damage.





VDub2625 said:


> If there's no major loss of oil over time, then it should be fine. Wah the engine down and see how fast it comes back.


Thanks :beer:


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## bro_brah (Aug 6, 2010)

One thing I find myself pondering about is the amount of stress that certain parts of cars withstand while driving. Specifically, I'm talking about hardware such as nuts and bolts. I'm not a physics guy, so please bare with me. Let's take a hub nut for example. Under normal driving circumstances it is designed to serve its purpose. But, under sharp cornering during a spirited drive, does it take on more stress? And is it a substantial amount? Or for example strut housing bolts. Pretty much every car that I have worked on has two of them holding them to the spindle. When you hit a dip in the road, do those two bolts take on more stress than usual? And once again, is it a substantial amount?


I've always been curious about this topic while driving. Also, I'm preparing myself for this: :facepalm:


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

bro_brah said:


> One thing I find myself pondering about is the amount of stress that certain parts of cars withstand while driving. Specifically, I'm talking about hardware such as nuts and bolts. I'm not a physics guy, so please bare with me. Let's take a hub nut for example. Under normal driving circumstances it is designed to serve its purpose. But, under sharp cornering during a spirited drive, does it take on more stress? And is it a substantial amount? Or for example strut housing bolts. Pretty much every car that I have worked on has two of them holding them to the spindle. When you hit a dip in the road, do those two bolts take on more stress than usual? And once again, is it a substantial amount?
> 
> 
> I've always been curious about this topic while driving. Also, I'm preparing myself for this: :facepalm:


These are great things to consider. I find myself often thinking about them, too. However, I do not fear them. I got a degree in mechanical engineering and one of the most shocking things I learned during that battle was the strength of materials. Especially metals. You know, I knew metal was obviously strong, but it's crazy HOW strong it really is. Furthermore, when you're analyzing fasteners, the orientation and loading is critical, and can make a huge difference. To use your example of strut bolts (a la VW mk2/mk3), these bolts are in double shear. That means it requires twice as much force to shear the bolt as if it were in single shear (single shear would be if it went through the strut and threaded into the spindle, instead of going through two points on the strut). Bolts in shear are actually not preferred, though, because shear strength (an inherent material property) is typically ~1/2 - 60% that of tensile strength when dealing with metals. A bolt in tension will probably blow your mind. It did for me. Take a 1/4-20 grade 8 bolt. The minimum tensile strength is 4750 lbs. In layman's terms, depending what you're driving, you could probably suspend your car (if you could figure out proper rigging) from a single 1/4-20 bolt. Or use a fine thread bolt of the same diameter; a 1/4-28 grade 8 bolt minimum tensile strength is 5450 lbs. I find that to be very impressive. A 1/4" bolt is tiny! On top of that revelation, there are also requirements for factors of safety to be incorporated into mechanical design. I'll refer to your other example. Say in the most extreme case, your car is capable of generating 1G lateral load at x speed in a turn. The designer can calculate what forces that generates at the axle nut. But he'll calculate it based on 1.5G loading (1.5G is made up. I'm not positive what the factor of safety requirements are for this component, it varies by many factors which are beyond the scope of this discussion, but the example I used would be a factor of safety of 1.5 or one and a half times the worst case scenario). So, in other words, it is designed to withstand a condition you can't physically induce. Yeah, okay, you could, in an accident or if you drifted sideways into a curb or something like that, but it's impossible to design for every possibility if you want the car to still move.

So while it's fun to consider the loads applied to individual components, I wouldn't let it worry you, if that's what you're dealing with. :thumbup:


----------



## Giovanni (May 13, 2000)

I have see outboard engines for boats that are V4s.

Why don't they make V4s for cars?


----------



## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

Giovanni said:


> I have see outboard engines for boats that are V4s.
> 
> Why don't they make V4s for cars?


They used to.
Lancia, Saab, and Ford made them.
Lancia:

Ford:

Saab:


----------



## tip (Aug 8, 2008)

Giovanni said:


> I have see outboard engines for boats that are V4s.
> 
> Why don't they make V4s for cars?


My guess is the lack of torque produced by a V4. Most V4 outboards are two strokes, hence power produced at higher revs.


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Giovanni said:


> I have see outboard engines for boats that are V4s.
> 
> Why don't they make V4s for cars?


Aside from the responses provided, they also produced lots of NVH.


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

saron81 said:


> They used to.
> Lancia, Saab, and Ford made them.


Wasn't the one Saab used made by ford? I could be wrong....

If that's true, it leaves us with ford and lancia, but I think there may have been a Russian company, too. Just can't remember which.


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

JUSTINCASE1021 said:


> why were some 2002 golfs called the "337" ???


I think only vortex homos did that


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

speed51133! said:


> I think only vortex homos did that


You would be wrong, but thanks for the input.


----------



## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

TwoLitreVW said:


> Wasn't the one Saab used made by ford? I could be wrong....
> 
> If that's true, it leaves us with ford and lancia, but I think there may have been a Russian company, too. Just can't remember which.


Looks like it was.


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## Omnilith (Jan 15, 2010)

speed51133! said:


> I think only vortex homos did that


Homophobic?

No, the GTI 337 Edition was an actual model, it was basically the same as the 25th Anniversary overseas GTI. 337 was the code name for the original GTI.


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## Omnilith (Jan 15, 2010)

saron81 said:


> Looks like it was.


Saab did indeed use a Ford V4.

Ford actually had two V4s... The German Taunus V4 that later gained a couple cylinders and eventually evolved all the way into the 4.0L SOHC V6 that died in 2010. The second was the English Essex V4 that also evolved into a V6 and saw use all the way up into the late 2000s with the 4.2L F-150 motor.


----------



## bro_brah (Aug 6, 2010)

Rob Cote said:


> These are great things to consider. I find myself often thinking about them, too. However, I do not fear them. I got a degree in mechanical engineering and one of the most shocking things I learned during that battle was the strength of materials. Especially metals. You know, I knew metal was obviously strong, but it's crazy HOW strong it really is. Furthermore, when you're analyzing fasteners, the orientation and loading is critical, and can make a huge difference. To use your example of strut bolts (a la VW mk2/mk3), these bolts are in double shear. That means it requires twice as much force to shear the bolt as if it were in single shear (single shear would be if it went through the strut and threaded into the spindle, instead of going through two points on the strut). Bolts in shear are actually not preferred, though, because shear strength (an inherent material property) is typically ~1/2 - 60% that of tensile strength when dealing with metals. A bolt in tension will probably blow your mind. It did for me. Take a 1/4-20 grade 8 bolt. The minimum tensile strength is 4750 lbs. In layman's terms, depending what you're driving, you could probably suspend your car (if you could figure out proper rigging) from a single 1/4-20 bolt. Or use a fine thread bolt of the same diameter; a 1/4-28 grade 8 bolt minimum tensile strength is 5450 lbs. I find that to be very impressive. A 1/4" bolt is tiny! On top of that revelation, there are also requirements for factors of safety to be incorporated into mechanical design. I'll refer to your other example. Say in the most extreme case, your car is capable of generating 1G lateral load at x speed in a turn. The designer can calculate what forces that generates at the axle nut. But he'll calculate it based on 1.5G loading (1.5G is made up. I'm not positive what the factor of safety requirements are for this component, it varies by many factors which are beyond the scope of this discussion, but the example I used would be a factor of safety of 1.5 or one and a half times the worst case scenario). So, in other words, it is designed to withstand a condition you can't physically induce. Yeah, okay, you could, in an accident or if you drifted sideways into a curb or something like that, but it's impossible to design for every possibility if you want the car to still move.
> 
> So while it's fun to consider the loads applied to individual components, I wouldn't let it worry you, if that's what you're dealing with. :thumbup:


Awesome, thanks for the info! That is a very impressive weight that one bolt can hold. I had no idea that it could hold so much. So let's say the tensile strength is 5,000lb for a bolt. When you shear the head off of a bolt, is it because the bolt was already weakened or is it putting a different force on it other than it was designed for?


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

Omnilith said:


> Homophobic?
> 
> No, the GTI 337 Edition was an actual model, it was basically the same as the 25th Anniversary overseas GTI. 337 was the code name for the original GTI.


yes. i am afraid of homosexuals. homophobic-phobic?


----------



## DubNMiatafan (Feb 13, 2009)

speed51133! said:


> yes. i am afraid of homosexuals. homophobic-phobic?


You're afraid of homosexuals? What kind of pansy are you?


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

speed51133! said:


> yes. i am afraid of homosexuals. homophobic-phobic?


I'm gonna getcha!

Please, can we stop the pointless discussion amongst the actual awesome info? Did we really need that reply to a question already asked and answered from 2005? Grow up.

About bolt heads shearing off... twisting strength in bolts is lower than tensile strength, and shear strength. It's a different kind of force that they don't see in normal operation.


----------



## dorkage (Jul 7, 2009)

So, I replaced all the bushings / tierods / ball joints / wheel bearings (and tires) in my MK4. Got a alignment on Wednesday, hit a pothole on a road trip today (Thursday) and the alignment is now off. I am 800KM from home and have 2000KM left in my trip. The tires have 800KM on them... I'd like to get a alignment tomorrow, but how will I know what shifted / bent after another alignment is done?


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## DowNnOuTDubin (Jun 21, 2006)

dorkage said:


> So, I replaced all the bushings / tierods / ball joints / wheel bearings (and tires) in my MK4. Got a alignment on Wednesday, hit a pothole on a road trip today (Thursday) and the alignment is now off. I am 800KM from home and have 2000KM left in my trip. The tires have 800KM on them... I'd like to get a alignment tomorrow, but how will I know what shifted / bent after another alignment is done?


Your alignment should carry a warranty.


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## Turq (Nov 9, 2001)

TwoLitreVW said:


> Wasn't the one Saab used made by ford? I could be wrong....
> 
> If that's true, it leaves us with ford and lancia, but I think there may have been a *Russian company, too. * Just can't remember which.



ZAZ, in the Zaporozhets cars. An air-cooled V4, even. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zaporozhets


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## dorkage (Jul 7, 2009)

DowNnOuTDubin said:


> Your alignment should carry a warranty.


I'm over 800KM away from home. Plus I don't think they'd cover a pothole.


----------



## bro_brah (Aug 6, 2010)

VDub2625 said:


> I'm gonna getcha!
> 
> Please, can we stop the pointless discussion amongst the actual awesome info? Did we really need that reply to a question already asked and answered from 2005? Grow up.
> 
> About bolt heads shearing off... twisting strength in bolts is lower than tensile strength, and shear strength. It's a different kind of force that they don't see in normal operation.


Ahh...awesome, thanks for the info! :thumbup::beer:


----------



## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

DubNMiatafan said:


> You're afraid of homosexuals? What kind of pansy are you?


stop with the hate man.


----------



## GTIVR6MK4 (Sep 14, 2000)

these body brace's what is their main purpose and why are they extremely expensive when they dont have any technical components ($1000+)?

EG.


----------



## CAH8 (Dec 22, 2011)

When somebody says top end (of the engine) what parts does that include. And what parts are included in the bottom end. Maybe a diagram would help with this


----------



## 20aeman (Jun 8, 2006)

CAH8 said:


> When somebody says top end (of the engine) what parts does that include. And what parts are included in the bottom end. Maybe a diagram would help with this


Top end is the head and all the components inside the head. Bottom end is the engine block and all the components inside the engine block.


----------



## CAH8 (Dec 22, 2011)

Got it, thanks.

Also what is the difference between a long block and a short block?


----------



## 20aeman (Jun 8, 2006)

GTIVR6MK4 said:


> these body brace's what is their main purpose and why are they extremely expensive when they dont have any technical components ($1000+)?
> 
> EG.


The main point is to stiffen the chassis. This allows the suspension to function more precisely without chassis deflection adding another variable. 

These are usually cheap. If you're paying more, it's because it's from a big name Japanese company. These people will charge you more because it's a "name brand" item made in Japan. They also don't sell directly, or at the very least, you'll have to overcome the language barrier to buy direct. As such, you'll usually be dealing with a dealer. A dealer has purchased from the distributor. The distributor is the middle man that already take an expensive item, and make them even more expensive by shipping them across the Atlantic and housing items until they are purchased by a dealer. 

While the dealer margins are usually pretty small, the distributors margins aren't.


----------



## 20aeman (Jun 8, 2006)

CAH8 said:


> Got it, thanks.
> 
> Also what is the difference between a long block and a short block?


Long block is a block+head. Short block is just the block. Hence long and short.


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## gruppe-b (Dec 6, 2008)

watching the Grand-Am race on ESPN3 right now...was wondering what is the significance of Corvette Racing's Yellow/Black (School Bus Yellowish-Orange) colors? i know they have run these colors for a good while on their racers,but i never thought of asking why 'til now.


----------



## CAH8 (Dec 22, 2011)

How long are the break in periods for new cars usually? What rpms are you limited to?


----------



## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

*FV-QR*

Depends on the engine and the application. Cylinder construction, ring construction and application all play into how the mfg specs out their break in period.


----------



## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

MAG58 said:


> Depends on the engine and the application. Cylinder construction, ring construction and application all play into how the mfg specs out their break in period.


I've heard new cars are basically broken in at the factory.


----------



## cberwald (Sep 11, 2011)

mellbergVWfan said:


> I've heard new cars are basically broken in at the factory.


Depends on the manufacturer. For example: Nissan, yes. Volkswagen, no.


----------



## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

Why does the SMG tranny in our new track E46 M3 suck so much ass?


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

mellbergVWfan said:


> I've heard new cars are basically broken in at the factory.


There's really no need for a break-in period for a new car. That is a throwback to an era where parts had to be worn in. Now, tolerances are so tight that that's no longer necessary, in most cases.


----------



## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

TooFitToQuit said:


> Why does the SMG tranny in our new track E46 M3 suck so much ass?


 Because it's a manual transmission, with a team of hydraulic gnomes bolted onto it. :laugh: 

There's technique to driving that box. If you lift off of the throttle a bit during upshifts, the gearchanges are a lot smoother (read: doesn't try to faceplant you into the wheel.) 
Start trying that. Makes a big difference.


----------



## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

cuppie said:


> Because it's a manual transmission, with a team of hydraulic gnomes bolted onto it. :laugh:
> 
> There's technique to driving that box. If you lift off of the throttle a bit during upshifts, the gearchanges are a lot smoother (read: doesn't try to faceplant you into the wheel.)
> Start trying that. Makes a big difference.


Will try that next. We kept getting banged around on shifts during our maiden voyage.


----------



## THE KILLER RABBIT (Jun 2, 2003)

how does a modern gas station pump work? particularly how does the auto shut off work.


----------



## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

THE KILLER RABBIT said:


> how does a modern gas station pump work? particularly how does the auto shut off work.


To piggyback off this question, do they use a peristaltic pump to meter the fuel?


----------



## robr2 (May 5, 2005)

THE KILLER RABBIT said:


> how does a modern gas station pump work? particularly how does the auto shut off work.


Here's a picture:










As you pump gas, a vacuum is created in the vacuum tube. When your tank is reaching it's limit, gasoline covers the port, breaking the vacuum and disengaging the flow.


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## Cole Schmitt (Nov 29, 2010)

TooFitToQuit said:


> Why does the SMG tranny in our new track E46 M3 suck so much ass?


Because it's a BMW


----------



## Cole Schmitt (Nov 29, 2010)

Why don't people change their own oil (disregarding those with new cars and free oil changes from the dealer)?

Was at a lady friends house last night, and she had a few people over. One of the girls was talking about getting a new car soon, and mentioned that she wanted a VW or Audi, but specifically an Audi. I kept quiet while it was going on, but what I really wanted to say was "Please, don't get one."
I kept quiet, but one of the girls mentioned "Don't get an Audi. An oil change from a 'regular car' is like $20, an oil change on an Audi is like $220."

I sat there and the only thing I thought was "Are oil change prices still a factor in today's car buying?"


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## z0d (Oct 13, 2009)

Cole Schmitt said:


> Why don't people change their own oil (disregarding those with new cars and free oil changes from the dealer)?


YMMV, but most oil changes cost about as much as buying your own oil and filter do. And that's without deals.










Even for someone who has more than enough experience doing oil changes, I'm not inclined to crawl under my car and get messy when getting the same thing done at my dealership is cheaper.

Then, of course, you've got the average person who doesn't even know how to do the job in the first place.


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Cole Schmitt said:


> Why don't people change their own oil (disregarding those with new cars and free oil changes from the dealer)?
> 
> Was at a lady friends house last night, and she had a few people over. One of the girls was talking about getting a new car soon, and mentioned that she wanted a VW or Audi, but specifically an Audi. I kept quiet while it was going on, but what I really wanted to say was "Please, don't get one."
> I kept quiet, but one of the girls mentioned "Don't get an Audi. An oil change from a 'regular car' is like $20, an oil change on an Audi is like $220."
> ...


I never change the oil on my dailies, but always on my classics. I want to work on my classics, but hate working on the dailies. In fact, in 15 years of owning my M-class I've never twisted a wrench on it.

Some people don't do it simply because they don't have to. I would bet my wife could change the oil, but why should she? I'm just happy she checks it.

I just acquired a hoist for my shop, so I may change my tune.


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## bustedbucket (Mar 23, 2010)

Hey folks, I have a silly question about radar detectors as I know absolutely nothing about them. A ticket in my kitty a few months ago has me wanting one to ensure safe highway travel at a desired pace. It would also be nice to be able to use it in the daily.

Anyway for the nOObishness:  Are there any that you can just plug into the cigar lighter port(or cigarette lighter port in the accent) without other wiring? Do they have to be affixed somewhere near or on the windscreen, or can I just rest it on my console or seat and still be effective? I just don't want to do any interior modding at all in the jag. I'd be okay with it in the accent, but I want to be able to use it in both vehicles.


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## Spiller337 (Nov 27, 2009)

Here's my question, been thinking about it since yesterday.

My mother used to have a 1994 Chevy Lumina Z34. Automatic, with the 3.4 V6 obviously.

That engine had a 7k rpm redline, however, the fuel cut at 5200rpm to prevent valve float. 

If the fuel cuts at 5200rpm so the valves don't float, then what is the point of the 7k redline?


I have also seen videos of manual version revving easily to 7000 rpm, and as far as I know the fuel cut was the same for them.

Whassupwitdat?


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## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

bustedbucket said:


> Hey folks, I have a silly question about radar detectors as I know absolutely nothing about them. A ticket in my kitty a few months ago has me wanting one to ensure safe highway travel at a desired pace. It would also be nice to be able to use it in the daily.
> 
> Anyway for the nOObishness: Are there any that you can just plug into the cigar lighter port(or cigarette lighter port in the accent) without other wiring? Do they have to be affixed somewhere near or on the windscreen, or can I just rest it on my console or seat and still be effective? I just don't want to do any interior modding at all in the jag. I'd be okay with it in the accent, but I want to be able to use it in both vehicles.


Yes. Detectors usually come with hard wire and cigarette lighter powered options. But you can't just lay it on your seat. Remember that the radio waves from the RADAR gun bounce off of your car and back to the gun. So your detector needs to be in a place where the body of the car won't interfere,like in the windshield (the higher up the better) or on the front of your car (with a remote unit). 

Also, be sure to do some digging and find out what the local LEOs use in terms of radar bands and get a detector that includes those frequencies. If they are using LIDAR (lasers instead of radio waves) or instant on RADAR, then you're screwed - the detector won't be of much help.

Or you could just slow down to within 9 MPH of the speed limit or the speed of the rest of traffic.


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## bustedbucket (Mar 23, 2010)

Thanks for the info!



> Or you could just slow down to within 9 MPH of the speed limit or the speed of the rest of traffic.


There were cars doing 10mph more than I was when I received my last ticket. The cop pretty much admitted to profiling me because of what I was driving and said that I should set an example.


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## spirroncello (Nov 29, 2011)

is it better to put 94 octane gas in your car, when all it needs is 88? i don't think it is, but my dad fills up his car with 94 when it needs 88, he says it's better for fuel injectors.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Spiller337 said:


> Here's my question, been thinking about it since yesterday.
> 
> My mother used to have a 1994 Chevy Lumina Z34. Automatic, with the 3.4 V6 obviously.
> 
> ...


I hate the term 'redline'. The tach, in principle, has nothing to do with the engine. I consider 'redline' to be the fuel cut-off, which is one fixed value, not a bunch of separate points that people talk about (fuel cutoff, redline on the tach, tach end). Of course, it seems that most people consider 'redline' when the tach starts the red shading, or when the tach ends. Sometimes, those match the fuel cutoff, but sometimes not. I think it's a bit daft to talk about where a pretty red mark starts on the gauge, as it generally has nothing to do with the operation of the engine. Some cars have an unnecessarily high 'tach redline' to make them seem cool (usually American cars since they tend to have lower cutoff limits). 

I can't speak for the Lumina, but some cars have different engine characteristics (including fuel cutoff) for manual vs. automatic, because the manuals can handle the abuse more. Also, I kinda doubt the Lumina could rev to 7k stock (it's possible, but unlikely from an American V6). THe ones you've seen could have included a chip that raises the limit. 



bustedbucket said:


> The cop pretty much admitted to profiling me because of what I was driving and said that I should set an example.


I would fight the ticket, even if you don't win, it's worth a shot. And usually these conversations are recorded, so I'd say something about this in court, it might get thrown out. Especially if you have a good record.


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## stock60 (Jan 16, 2002)

spirroncello said:


> is it better to put 94 octane gas in your car, when all it needs is 88? i don't think it is, but my dad fills up his car with 94 when it needs 88, he says it's better for fuel injectors.


No, higher octane is to prevent pinging in a high-strung engine (or a beat up one). The chemicals used to up octane are NOT gasoline and have less energy, so at best you're getting less mileage out of your tank and at worst you're contaminating it more than necessary. 

People complain that gasoline some places has up to 10% ethanol added. Higher octane fuel is pretty much just more of that type of thing if i remember right. 

Now if your engine is not running right and knocking, higher octane will dampen that and prevent damage.


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

Spiller337 said:


> Here's my question, been thinking about it since yesterday.
> 
> My mother used to have a 1994 Chevy Lumina Z34. Automatic, with the 3.4 V6 obviously.
> 
> ...


What makes you think the ENGINE had a 7k redline? Just because the tach goes to 7,000? Or just because it can rev to 7k?


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## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

StormChaser said:


> What makes you think the ENGINE had a 7k redline? Just because the tach goes to 7,000? Or just because it can rev to 7k?


It's what the instrument panel says, at least.


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## AKADriver (Nov 20, 2001)

This same scenario played out on auto-trans Neons with the DOHC engine, and the 1st and second gen Taurus SHO.

The premature fuel cut had nothing to do with valve float. The engine was perfectly capable of sustaining 7000rpm on an engine dyno and the tach markings reflect that.

The fuel cut was there to protect the transmission and engine accessories.

A 1st gen Neon with the DOHC/auto setup was actually slower than an SOHC/auto, because the autos all had a lower fuel cut which kicked in below the DOHC engine's power peak. Below 6000rpm the SOHC made slightly more power/torque.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

StormChaser said:


> What makes you think the ENGINE had a 7k redline? Just because the tach goes to 7,000? Or just because it can rev to 7k?


They have a 7k redline, officially, and pull to that speed without issues (unlike the pushrod version of the same engine which runs out of breath around 4500 RPM)



Story about it - apparently it is detuned quite a bit for transmission durability:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca2/34Performance/dohc.html


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## Ed52 (May 21, 2001)

*Alignment Question*

Assuming 0 degree toe, equal caster L and R, and a camberless road:
RF has 0 camber. 
Lf has -1.0 camber. 

shown as /--------| when looking towards the front

1)Will the drift in direction be towards the side with more positive camber?

I think drift will be towards the right----the effective diameter of the front left tire will be less on the inside edge and it will cover less distance and tend to turn right.

2) Will toe in or toe out affect the amount of drift to a greater amount?


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## jonpwn (Aug 13, 2010)

I know camshaft sprockets have a mark for TDC. Do crankshaft sprockets have the same mark? 
In particular, I am inquiring about the mkIV 1.8t engine, but a general answer would be ok too. 

I am looking around, and I can't seem to locate a TDC mark on the crankshaft sprocket. Instead, I see that some accessory pulleys that are attached to the crankshaft will have a TDC mark.

also, based on this DIY
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2840728-Ultimate-Timing-Belt-DIY!

there would be a TDC mark on the flywheel. However, I changed my clutch + flywheel and i doubt the shop put the clutch in and made sure the TDC mark on the flywheel matched the other TDC marks. In that case, how do i ensure that cylinder 1 will be at TDC?


Supposing i didn't have nail polish or anything to mark my belt/sprockets with and wanted to do it like an automotive wiz


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

jonpwn said:


> there would be a TDC mark on the flywheel. However, I changed my clutch + flywheel and i doubt the shop put the clutch in and made sure the TDC mark on the flywheel matched the other TDC marks. In that case, how do i ensure that cylinder 1 will be at TDC?


There should be a TDC mark on the crankshaft. However, in older VWs, it's on the crankshaft accessory pulley, and it lines up with a mark on the timing belt cover. It might be the same for you. Also, the flywheel has dowel pins and only goes in one way, to ensure the TDC mark is in the correct place. To ge t agood idea of TDC, insert a long rod (I use the foot-long extension on my ratchet set) into the spark plug hole and turn until it's sticking out the furthest. THat will get you the general area, and fine-tune it using the marks.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

My question, now, is on the effect of an LSD on economy. It should improve economy, correct, since more of the power is making it to the road and pushing the car forward? No more wasted power spinning tires.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

VDub2625 said:


> My question, now, is on the effect of an LSD on economy. It should improve economy, correct, since more of the power is making it to the road and pushing the car forward? No more wasted power spinning tires.


All LSD does is send power to the tire with the most traction. How would that affect economy?


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## NotFast (Mar 20, 2002)

After a super scary drive home in a super scary storm....

Do wider/narrower tires cause more/less hydroplaning in the rain?


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Wider tires more likely to hydroplane.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

barry2952 said:


> All LSD does is send power to the tire with the most traction. How would that affect economy?


For example if you spin out a lot, you're wasting power and energy spinning tires instead of putting that power to use. Perhaps I'm overthinking it though.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

VDub2625 said:


> For example if you spin out a lot, you're wasting power and energy spinning tires instead of putting that power to use. Perhaps I'm overthinking it though.


I've been driving for almost 50 years. I think I've spun out twice. I don't think it's affected my carbon footprint.


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## jonpwn (Aug 13, 2010)

thanks Vdub2625.

Another question..

I watched the 5 part video on assembling a 1.8t engine with rods.

He mentions to use plastigauge to test the clearances between the bearings and journals. What happens if the clearance is too much or to little? It's not like a piston ring where you can file it a bit until you get the right gap.

On the same topic, what is ACL coating and why would one use it on bearings?


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

jonpwn said:


> thanks Vdub2625.
> 
> Another question..
> 
> ...


If rod/main bearing clearance is not within spec, the crank needs to be machined and different size main/rod bearings used, which will bring it back into spec. Usually this means undercutting the rods/mains until they are 0.25mm (usually) or .010" smaller than factory spec. and using a thicker "undersized" bearing in place of the factory original. This is often why you hear old v8 guys describing cranks they sell as being "10/10", meaning the main bearings and rod bearings have been machined to be .010" smaller than factory specification. 

ACL coating is a misnomer. ACL bearings are the company, and they produce a coated bearing. The reason for doing so is to reduce wear on start up, until the oil pressure builds. In an engine, the only time the crank should be in direct contact with the main/rod bearings is at startup. The moly coating on these bearings aims to reduce that initial startup wear until the oil pressure rises and the correct oil wedge forms.


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## z0d (Oct 13, 2009)

Lewis662 said:


> around Vegas, on the highways near overpasses or underpasses, there are signs that say NO HC with the universal Crossout sign, circle with a line through it.
> Whiskey Tango Foxtrot?!


Unless it's some weird local/state deviation from the norm, probably "no hazardous chemicals". Which is probably the least of Nevada's environmental concerns.


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## KeiCar (Jul 23, 2002)

How do you pronounce the word Louvers?









And this word:











My guess: Loover (the oooo like the word move). And Mono-Q, like the word mono and the letter "Q".

How way off am I


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## z0d (Oct 13, 2009)

KeiCar said:


> My guess: Loover (the oooo like the word move). And Mono-Q, like the word mono and the letter "Q".


I'd agree on both counts - loo-vur and mah-neh-que. But I'm a Pittsburgh native living in Louisiana, so...


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

I believe it to be mono-coke.


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## bubbagti (Mar 6, 2004)

Loooover and Mono-c0ck


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

TwoLitreVW said:


> I believe it to be mono-coke.


Yes



bubbagti said:


> Loooover and Mono-c0ck


Yes on louvers and no on monocoque. It's mono-coke as above. :beer:

I've never heard anyone familiar with the tech (including aircraft guys) pronounce it any other way.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Pretty sure it's mono-****?

Like coque au vin.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

thegave said:


> Pretty sure it's mono-****?
> 
> Like coque au vin.


dictionary.com disagrees, though they do have that as a secondary pronunciation, so 'mono-coke' is preferred, but in actuality either is correct. :beer:


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Air and water do mix said:


> dictionary.com disagrees, though they do have that as a secondary pronunciation, so 'mono-coke' is preferred, but in actuality either is correct. :beer:


:beer::beer:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I swear I've heard mono-"rooster" on Top Gear.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Why do HVAC/interior engineers think we need our hand held when designing climate controls? I've noticed that almost every car is different, but, most of the time, you have these options:

"MAX AC"- I hate MAX AC. I can turn on my own recirculation and AC, thank you. It's even more annoying when it's automatically turned on witht he temp knob all the way to cold (I've seen Nissan do this). Toyota is by far the laziest with this, as they have a MAX AC indicator on the dial, but all it does is turn the temp flap to cold and instruct you to turn on recirc yourself. 

no recirc allowed- usually on any setting that does the windshield. I know it's to keep it from steaming up, but if it does, i can turn it off myself. Sometimes I need it to heat the interior up faster, or, when combined with AC, to dehumidify the windshield faster.

duplicate settings- 2000s Hyundais, among others, suffer from this disease. 7 (!) choices for the direction of air, two of which are AC and MAX AC, even though there are separate AC and recirc button s! Meaning, you have a MAX AC choice on the dial, but if you put it to dash vent, and then turn on the AC and recirc yourself, it's just a copy of the MAX AC setting.

AC on with defrost- what if I don't want it? too bad. most cars don't allow this, and the AC button/light will get stuck on without any choice to disable it. In the Hyundai example mentioned above, the light actually DOES go out if you push it- but the AC stays on! 

not enough choices for control- some (most) climate systems only allow certian choices, the most common being defrost, defrost/foot, foot, dash/foot, and dash. What if I want the air from the defrost and dash? 

I don't understand why they can't design a system where the temperature ONLY controls the temp flap, the vents can all be turned on discrelely and independently, and recirculation and AC is MY choice. 

I know this seems like a crazy rant, and forgive me. But I've thought about this a lot 

It seems to me, that in the history of climate control, back in the pre-AC days, things were simple and nice. Then AC was introduced, and for some reason they CAN NOT let go of separate AC and MAX AC controls. Maybe it's becuase they think people expect it and don't know how to make it function without it?


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

VDub2625 said:


> Why do HVAC/interior engineers think we need our hand held when designing climate controls? I've noticed that almost every car is different, but, most of the time, you have these options:


I totally get that rant. The last car I had with a well-designed A/C system was my '99 Protegé. Nothing was electronic - it was all manual dial controls, a separate button for the compressor, and even a manual lever to control fresh/recirc that closed the door with a loud slap. The A/C didn't come on automatically in defrost mode, so you could clear the window with high heat and full fan if you wanted to. Or on hot days I could direct full cold A/C to the floor to de-sweat my feet without having it switch to fresh air.

My Yaris isn't too bad - it switches to fresh air if you select "floor" but you can override it. And it only turns on the compressor if you select "defrost" - if I put it on floor/defrost it will let you keep the compressor off.

The Impala I had last week was horrible. It had great A/C but would do all kinds of things on its own. We had the A/C on most of the day, but then it cooled off outside so I just started running the vent. A smelly car pulled out in front of us, so I switched it to recirc briefly and it started running the compressor, even though the A/C was off. I tried toggling the button on and off and it kept running it until I switched it back to fresh air.

The Mazda:


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

You need a Saab. (Without ATC.)



Seperate user controlled AC on/off button (available at all settings and temps), and recirc control.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I LOVE cable-controlled systems. I understand that not all cars can do defrost and dash, by matter of mechanical limitations, but the rest still stands.

I drove a new Altima the other day and the system was manually controlled electronics. What's the point? It seems they're all going this way. And this is where my rant mostly came from, as it looked like I had certian choices available, that it just doesn't let you do. Even more annoying, it turned the fan way down when switching modes, possibly to keep the flaps from being damaged, but, in the history of electronic AC flaps, I didn't think that was a problem?


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

VDub2625 said:


> Why do HVAC/interior engineers think we need our hand held when designing climate controls? I've noticed that almost every car is different, but, most of the time, you have these options:
> 
> "MAX AC"- I hate MAX AC. I can turn on my own recirculation and AC, thank you. It's even more annoying when it's automatically turned on with the temp knob all the way to cold (I've seen Nissan do this). Toyota is by far the laziest with this, as they have a MAX AC indicator on the dial, but all it does is turn the temp flap to cold and instruct you to turn on recirc yourself.
> 
> ...


The wife's Mazda 3 automatically turns the compressor on when the heat is turned on (foot vent). It's a major PITA, and I wish I knew how to disable it. Other than that, it's a fairly good HVAC control layout. However, the A/C sucks major donkey balls. Between the single cooling fan up front trying to keep air flowing over the condenser to the lack of adequate airflow over the evaporator due to crappy ducting design, it just doesn't keep the car very cold.


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## Mintyy (Jan 3, 2011)

KeiCar said:


> How do you pronounce the word Louvers?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Louvre like the museum where the Mona Lisa is. More or less how you describe. 

Monocoque is pronounced mono-cokk.

While we're on the subject of French words for car parts, it's pronounced shah-see.


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

VDub2625 said:


> I LOVE cable-controlled systems. I understand that not all cars can do defrost and dash, by matter of mechanical limitations, but the rest still stands.
> 
> I drove a new Altima the other day and the system was manually controlled electronics. What's the point? It seems they're all going this way. And this is where my rant mostly came from, as it looked like I had certian choices available, that it just doesn't let you do. *Even more annoying, it turned the fan way down when switching modes, possibly to keep the flaps from being damaged, but, in the history of electronic AC flaps, I didn't think that was a problem?*


In my old '97 Escort, the fresh/recirc flap would get stuck if I had the fan on high. Apparently the motor couldn't overcome the force of the air in high. I wonder if this is why Nissan designed it this way, or as you say, to reduce wear on the components.


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## CodeMan (May 12, 2006)

While we're on the subject of pronunciation, how about livery? Is that a short or long 'i'?


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

VDub2625 said:


> Why do HVAC/interior engineers think we need our hand held when designing climate controls? I've noticed that almost every car is different, but, most of the time, you have these options:
> 
> "MAX AC"- I hate MAX AC. I can turn on my own recirculation and AC, thank you. It's even more annoying when it's automatically turned on witht he temp knob all the way to cold (I've seen Nissan do this). Toyota is by far the laziest with this, as they have a MAX AC indicator on the dial, but all it does is turn the temp flap to cold and instruct you to turn on recirc yourself.
> 
> ...


 Best climate control ever. Only thing it wouldn't let you do is run the a/c on only defrost. (Ironic, I know) You can have any mix of any vent you wanted. I don't like direct air blowing on me unless I need a dramatic temp change, so I would have a gentle breeze coming out of the dash vents, and then a lot of air coming from either the floor or defrost depending on my mood.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

CodeMan said:


> While we're on the subject of pronunciation, how about livery? Is that a short or long 'i'?


I go with short, as in liver.


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## core5 (Apr 28, 2006)

Ed52 said:


> Assuming 0 degree toe, equal caster L and R, and a camberless road:
> RF has 0 camber.
> Lf has -1.0 camber.
> 
> ...


Yes, I've had this situation and the car will drift toward the right slowly. On left cambered road like this / The car will tend to go straighter with less steering correction. Also bumps will probably cause the camber to vary constantly, so you'll have to make constant steering corrections.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

monoaural said:


> Best climate control ever. Only thing it wouldn't let you do is run the a/c on only defrost. (Ironic, I know) You can have any mix of any vent you wanted. I don't like direct air blowing on me unless I need a dramatic temp change, so I would have a gentle breeze coming out of the dash vents, and then a lot of air coming from either the floor or defrost depending on my mood.


I do miss those old school, individual flap controls. Old VWs had those too. I wonder why it would kill the AC on defrost, that seems like a good thing to defog the windshield! Haha.


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## Mintyy (Jan 3, 2011)

CodeMan said:


> While we're on the subject of pronunciation, how about livery? Is that a short or long 'i'?


Or Caterham. I refuse to say Kay-trum like the Brits. Cat-er-umm for me, thank you.


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

Mintyy said:


> Or Caterham. I refuse to say Kay-trum like the Brits. Cat-er-umm for me, thank you.


Cat er ham. just like it's spelt.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Mintyy said:


> Or Caterham. I refuse to say *Kay-trum* like the Brits. Cat-er-umm for me, thank you.


None of the ones I know say it that way. Hypercorrection? Or maybe the middle syllable is too soft. There's no stress on the er but it's definitely enunciated.


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## Labrite34 (Mar 30, 2008)

Every cars horsepower and torque numbers are posted for the car at wide open throttle. Are there any documentations of cars that perform better than others at, say, 50% throttle. Are there any engine series or car companies that notoriously give out cars that have a significant drop in power if not at WOT? Is there a 3D graph of dyno numbers that I can peruse or look up (ie; rpms on X, hp/torque on Y, and throttle on Z)? I'm interested in cars that perform well at 50% throttle.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

So do you mean at half load or actually at half throttle position?

Either way, I can't see how this would be of any real practical value or use.....


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

VDub2625 said:


> I do miss those old school, individual flap controls. Old VWs had those too. I wonder why it would kill the AC on defrost, that seems like a good thing to defog the windshield! Haha.


According to the manual, the A/C could freeze over the windshield. :screwy: 
I also like my mk1 late westy non-a/c dash. The dash vents are always "cool" air. Wife can be blasted out by hot air, and I can have fresh cooler air on me.


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## feels_road (Jan 27, 2005)

TwoLitreVW said:


> So do you mean at half load or actually at half throttle position?
> 
> Either way, I can't see how this would be of any real practical value or use.....


X2. If you want power, you press the go-pedal.

A better question would be, how linear is the pedal? Or is a strictly linear pedal even desirable? And how much lag is there, for numerous reasons. For example, in many VWs you can't go quickly from the brake pedal to full throttle and expect anything (the brake pedal/ throttle override remains active for a short while). So, it is better to use the handbrake or no brake at all, if possible.

Also, in Bri'ish English, isn't it Ca' - er - ham?


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## Techun (Dec 27, 2006)

VDub2625 said:


> I do miss those old school, individual flap controls. Old VWs had those too. I wonder why it would kill the AC on defrost, that seems like a good thing to defog the windshield! Haha.


I like how on my Saturn it's an analog control over the transition between face -> feet -> defrost. Want 96% face and 4% feet? We can do that. :thumbup: Want split face/feet and recirculate? Sure :thumbup:

GTO it is a 50-50 split only, and recirculate only works on 100% dash vents :thumbdown:


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## Labrite34 (Mar 30, 2008)

feels_road said:


> X2. If you want power, you press the go-pedal.
> 
> A better question would be, how linear is the pedal? Or is a strictly linear pedal even desirable? And how much lag is there, for numerous reasons. For example, in many VWs you can't go quickly from the brake pedal to full throttle and expect anything (the brake pedal/ throttle override remains active for a short while). So, it is better to use the handbrake or no brake at all, if possible.
> 
> Also, in Bri'ish English, isn't it Ca' - er - ham?


This is sort of my question. obviously, a turbocharged car will experience a much different 3D power graph. I'm just interested in seeing how a car performs in normal driving. While a civic may need 80% throttle to get 75% of its peak hp for that particular RPM/Gear, perhaps a TDI Jetta only needs 70% throttle to get 75% of its peak hp for that particular RPM/Gear.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

so the biggest issue is that there's far too many variables. we're not just talking specific driveline combinations, but also ambient conditions, elevation, grade, and weights of the vehicle. 

so what happens is that you're not going to get a nice tidy answer, since the load varies greatly depending on all of those variable (and many others we're not even considering). and that load ultimately affects output depending on what the user is asking the car to do.

i suspect (and this is just spitballing) that the reason you don't see that kind of data is not only because of the large number of variables, and its questionable use/purpose, but that the biggest variable is the operator. for example, i know that i have to drive my forester drastically different than i drive my wife's mini in order for it to do what i want. so in short, the data derived from toying with all those variables would kind of be in vain; it's easier to just have the operator adjust driving style to cope with conditions and get what he wants out of the drivetrain in question.

... or maybe i've got that all wrong or i still don't fully understand your question.


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

I got one...

At what point in ownership do you just say "EFF IT" and stop fixing things every time you hear a rattle, leak, squeak, or some other thing is just not quite right??

After spending $1200 on parts for a performance clutch on an 11 year old car, I am there.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Everybody's breaking point is different.


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## Rocco! (Mar 4, 2011)

What is it about high-revving engines that is bad for emissions?

I hear this a lot in the "Honda has lost it's way" threads but never fully understood why.


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## randysmom (Aug 14, 2004)

*1995 Jetta 2.0 ABA engine - interference or non-interference engine?*

OK, so my burning question of the week is, is the 2.0 ABA engine in my 1995 Jetta an interference or a non-interference engine? I see references to it being both types of engine on the internet. Can someone clear this up?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

randysmom said:


> OK, so my burning question of the week is, is the 2.0 ABA engine in my 1995 Jetta an interference or a non-interference engine? I see references to it being both types of engine on the internet. Can someone clear this up?


 The older 8vs were non-interference, and the 16vs were interference. I am not sure if the ABA is strictly yes or no, though, i suspect it may be, but only slightly. Perhaps the chances of having a problem might be lower, but not nil. Just a guess.


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

VDub2625 said:


> The older 8vs were non-interference, and the 16vs were interference. I am not sure if the ABA is strictly yes or no, though, i suspect it may not be, but only slightly. Perhaps the chances of having a problem might be lower, but not nil. Just a guess.


 It could also be that the answer is "maybe". For instance, it could be that if the valve stems were on the high side of the acceptable range (i.e.- the longest allowable) as was the stroke of the crank, then there will be interference, but if they were both on the low/short side of allowable, there there is no interference. 

I don't really know one way or the other, but this is also a possibility. All that said, you can't kill an 8v.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*FV-QR*

If you lose a timing belt at 6000rpm, there's likely to be damage due to how fast the cam is spinning, and the way it'll (relative to the crank) slow down to a stop, while the crank is still going like a madman. At idle, or lower driving rpm, the cam is more likely to stop sooner, and the crank isn't going nearly as fast so there's less of a chance of a piston being at TDC while a valve is fully open. Wanted to expand on my "only just" possible explanation  

FWIW, the 16v, which is well-known to be interference, has had some cases where it's not damaged. It's a matter of chance. but strictly speaking, yeah the ABA is likely one.


----------



## z0d (Oct 13, 2009)

randysmom said:


> OK, so my burning question of the week is, is the 2.0 ABA engine in my 1995 Jetta an interference or a non-interference engine? I see references to it being both types of engine on the internet. Can someone clear this up?


 That's because mk3 owners like to pat themselves on the back and will defend the claim of being "non-interference" to the death. Being an interference engine isn't a question of probability or likelihood, it's a binary question of whether or not the valve/piston overlap for possible interference damage exists. It does, and there are plenty of examples of ABAs with interference damage, even if it doesn't happen all the time. The mk3 and 2.0 technical forums will go into endless debate about how it's "not always an interference motor", but that's a load of crap. If it can happen - and it can - it's an interference motor.


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## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

z0d said:


> That's because mk3 owners like to pat themselves on the back and will defend the claim of being "non-interference" to the death. Being an interference engine isn't a question of probability or likelihood, it's a binary question of whether or not the valve/piston overlap for possible interference damage exists. It does, and there are plenty of examples of ABAs with interference damage, even if it doesn't happen all the time. The mk3 and 2.0 technical forums will go into endless debate about how it's "not always an interference motor", but that's a load of crap. If it can happen - and it can - it's an interference motor.


 funny .. never seen an engine that is always an interference motor .... hahahahaha


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## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

Isambard said:


> What is it about high-revving engines that is bad for emissions?
> 
> I hear this a lot in the "Honda has lost it's way" threads but never fully understood why.


 From what I understand, at higher speeds less fuel is injected into the cylinders which emits higher amounts of NOx. Car & Driver had an article on this sometime around 1993, but I cannot find the graph. Here is one graph I did find: 










I may be incorrect with this assessment, and would welcome clarification. 

Also, as far as the market wanting high-revving engines, this was a relatively short fad that was exploited by Honda to their benefit. Historically, the NA market has almost unequivocally favored big-bore, long stroke engines by way of their power delivery: lots of power in the middle of the revolution range. Now Honda is witnessing the return of torque-happy low RPM engines (which has started years ago) in nearly every class, and people will make the claim they are struggling to meet this demand. Notice that turbochargers have not been available on any of their NA products. This is definitely interesting.


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## allroad (Jun 27, 2010)

Never properly understood what makes a pick-up truck a half-ton, 3/4 ton, or 1-ton truck. 

Also, being British, I can confirm that the pronunciation of Caterham does indeed have three syllables. Kay-ter-am. Kayteram. Some of us get it wrong and go with Cat-er-am, but either way it's not Kay-trum.


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## allroad (Jun 27, 2010)

DonPatrizio said:


> Now Honda is witnessing the return of torque-happy low RPM engines (which has started years ago) in nearly every class, and people will make the claim they are struggling to meet this demand. Notice that turbochargers have not been available on any of their NA products.


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## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

allroad said:


>


 Good thing I said Honda, not Acura!


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## GunSupplier (Sep 12, 2008)

allroad said:


> Never properly understood what makes a pick-up truck a half-ton, 3/4 ton, or 1-ton truck.


 Taken from Wikipedia because it explains it more succinctly than I would if I tried: 

"When light-duty trucks were first produced in the United States, they were rated by their payload capacity in tons (e.g., 1⁄2-, 3⁄4- and 1-ton). Over time, payload capacities for most domestic pickup trucks have increased while the ton titles have stayed the same. The now-imprecise ton rating is presently used to compare standard sizes, rather than actual capacities."


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

allroad said:


> Never properly understood what makes a pick-up truck a half-ton, 3/4 ton, or 1-ton truck.


 Those are load carrying capacities. The difference is in the springs and the physical size of the suspension parts.


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## allroad (Jun 27, 2010)

Barry, oh-so-trustworthy wikipedia disagrees with you. 

Should I think of it like A-B-C segments for cars? Ranger, F150, F250, F350, etc?


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## allroad (Jun 27, 2010)

DonPatrizio said:


> Good thing I said Honda, not Acura!


 If it walks like a duck-beaked Honda...


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## GunSupplier (Sep 12, 2008)

allroad said:


> Barry, oh-so-trustworthy wikipedia disagrees with you.
> 
> Should I think of it like A-B-C segments for cars? Ranger, F150, F250, F350, etc?


 I don't know if Wikipedia disagrees with him, just worded differently. 

Second paragraph: "This has led to categorizing trucks similarly, even if their payload is different. Therefore, the Ford Ranger, Chevrolet S-10, and GMC S-15 are called quarter-tons (1⁄4-ton). The Ford F-150, Chevrolet 10, Chevrolet/GMC 1500, and Dodge 1500 are half-tons (1⁄2-ton). The Ford F-250, Chevrolet 20, Chevrolet/GMC 2500, and Dodge 2500 are three-quarter-tons (3⁄4-ton). Chevrolet/GMC's 3⁄4-ton suspension systems were further divided into light and heavy-duty, differentiated by 5-lug and 6 or 8-lug wheel hubs depending on year, respectively. The Ford F-350, Chevrolet 30, Chevrolet/GMC 3500, and Dodge 3500 are one tons (1-ton)."


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## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

This may have been addressed elsewhere, but why do some car drivers drive with their rear windows down? The few times that i've done this by accident, all I noticed was booming/reverberation. I'm sure their is a better term for this experience. But, I see it so often, I wonder what benefit do those drivers derive? Just curious...


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## Rocco! (Mar 4, 2011)

DonPatrizio said:


> From what I understand, at higher speeds less fuel is injected into the cylinders which emits higher amounts of NOx...


 Thanks :thumbup:


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## Giovanni (May 13, 2000)

what are coilpacks? 

are they expensive to replace?


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## Rocco! (Mar 4, 2011)

rychas1 said:


> This may have been addressed elsewhere, but why do some car drivers drive with their rear windows down? The few times that i've done this by accident, all I noticed was booming/reverberation. I'm sure their is a better term for this experience. But, I see it so often, I wonder what benefit do those drivers derive? Just curious...


 Did the cars you see have their sunroofs open? It's so the air that comes in the roof can go out the rear windows. It's akin to opening two windows on opposite sides of a room to get a cross-breeze.

At least that's what I always thought


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## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

Why are three-spoke steering wheels thought of as sporty while 2 and 4 are not?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Giovanni said:


> what are coilpacks?
> 
> are they expensive to replace?


 It depends on the car... older cars had one coil and a distributor to send the voltage to each spark plug as needed... newer cars use one "pack" of coils to fire either groups of plugs (such as 1 & 3, 2 & 4, and 5 & 6 in a 6 cyl, with one coil for each set, both cylinders get a spark but only one is important) or each plug individually (coil-on-plug). Coil-on-plug would be the most expensive as it's a mini coil just for each cylinder.


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

VDub2625 said:


> It depends on the car... older cars had one coil and a distributor to send the voltage to each spark plug as needed... newer cars use one "pack" of coils to fire either groups of plugs (such as 2-4-6 and 1-3-5 in a 6 cyl) or each plug individually (coil-on-plug). Coil-on-plug would be the most expensive as it's a mini coil just for each cylinder.


 As far as what they are; transformers. They take a high amperage, low voltage signal, magic happens and they output a high voltage, low amperage signal. It's voltage that gets the electricity to jump the gap on the spark plug, creating a spark, not amperage. That's why you can get shocked with 40,000V from a spark plug wire short and it doesn't really do anything. Kinda just stings like a bee. But if you took the 12V from the battery across your heart, it'd likely stop and you'd die. Amps kill. Volts typically don't.


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## JeffIsLax (Mar 26, 2005)

rychas1 said:


> This may have been addressed elsewhere, but why do some car drivers drive with their rear windows down? The few times that i've done this by accident, all I noticed was booming/reverberation. I'm sure their is a better term for this experience. But, I see it so often, I wonder what benefit do those drivers derive? Just curious...


 The term is wind buffeting. Air flowing past a sealed volume draws vacuum in the cabin. Because the cabin is rigid and won't collapse, it sort of chugs (think of what happens when you pour a bottle out too fast) and causes pressure pulses in the cabin. Usually opening more than one window will stop buffeting. As Isambard notes, with the sunroof open, air flows through that opening and out the back windows. Sometimes though, when both back windows are opening, they are both experiencing the same flow across the window, so rather than air passing through one side to the other, it draws twice the vacuum.


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## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

Isambard said:


> Did the cars you see have their sunroofs open? It's so the air that comes in the roof can go out the rear windows. It's akin to opening two windows on opposite sides of a room to get a cross-breeze.
> 
> At least that's what I always thought


Honestly, I didn't look that close. Next time I spy one, I'll look.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Is there a reason the TDI Jetta (2012) I drove the other day, with automatic trans, had a slight pause in the creep after I took my foot off the brake (both drive and reverse)? To save fuel? Or is it because the diesel shouldn't have a slight load like that? Is it an engine/computer thing, or a trans/computer thing? Why don't gas engines do this?

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk 2


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## Zunflower (Jun 5, 2013)

While I'm well aware they are purely aesthetic, is there any wisdom to spending a little money on a nice-looking license plate frame, or is the whole thing just pissing in the wind?


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## rynodyno312 (Aug 20, 2012)

VDub2625 said:


> Is there a reason the TDI Jetta (2012) I drove the other day, with automatic trans, had a slight pause in the creep after I took my foot off the brake (both drive and reverse)? To save fuel? Or is it because the diesel shouldn't have a slight load like that? Is it an engine/computer thing, or a trans/computer thing? Why don't gas engines do this?
> 
> Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk 2


I think that's just how the DSG transmission feels. It takes a second to engage the clutch before you start creeping--same as on my MKV GTI.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*FV-QR*

I guess it was DSG. I don't suppose they make regular autos for diesel anymore. It sucked trying to carefully park, becuase it would not move, then suddenly leap. I count on the slight creep with brakes to go slowly into a spot. It seemed to be wired to the brake lights.


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## Snake Hips (Apr 16, 2012)

VDub2625 said:


> If you lose a timing belt at 6000rpm, there's likely to be damage due to how fast the cam is spinning, and the way it'll (relative to the crank) slow down to a stop, while the crank is still going like a madman. At idle, or lower driving rpm, the cam is more likely to stop sooner, and the crank isn't going nearly as fast so there's less of a chance of a piston being at TDC while a valve is fully open. Wanted to expand on my "only just" possible explanation
> 
> FWIW, the 16v, which is well-known to be interference, has had some cases where it's not damaged. It's a matter of chance. but strictly speaking, yeah the ABA is likely one.


The camshaft should lock immediately to me. Have you ever compressed a valve spring? They're beefy, and I'd bet 16 of them pressing on the cam lobes would stop that baby in its tracks.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Possibly... but I'm not completely convinced it would be immediate, at least immediate enough to not hit anything. 

Edit: and the below as well. The cam isn't going to magically stop at tdc every time.

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk 2


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

Just because the cam isn't spinning doesn't mean all the valves are closed. 

What's the point you're trying to make? Honest question.


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## ttvick (Aug 15, 2007)

Hey guys,

I am having a curious issue with my '00 S2000. Recently the battery has been very weak, and it will not start the car after sitting for more than 24 hours. The battery is a new Optima Yellow-Top, replacing the old Optima Yellow-Top I had under warranty after two years. I replaced the battery after it went stone-dead on me one day. When putting the new battery in, I noticed that the positive terminal post collar (the thing that connects the battery cable to the post) was stretched and would no longer tighten on the post properly. I left it not-quite-tight-enough for a few days, during which time my starts were very weak, and the car needed to be jumped a time or two. I eventually replaced it with one of these: 










In doing so, I noticed some slight corrosion build-up inside the battery cable. Everything is tight now (as electrical connections should be), but the problem persists. If I drive the car for 10 minutes, run in the store for a few minutes, and come back out, it starts right up. After working an 8-10 hour day, it's weak, but starts. After a weekend without driving, it is too weak to start.

So, my question:
Would you attribute this to a bad battery cable, or could a faulty battery be to blame? If the battery cable is the believed culprit, is the EPS Sub-Wire (#7) what I should be looking to replace?

Also to note, I have all interior accessory lights off, have checked and ensured that the trunk light is not staying on, and have all accessories (HVAC/radio) off before turning off the car.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Sounds more like a drain.

Generally, if the juice gets zapped over time, it's due to either a bad battery (not holding a charge) or a drain in the system somewhere.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

ttvick said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I am having a curious issue with my '00 S2000. Recently the battery has been very weak, and it will not start the car after sitting for more than 24 hours. The battery is a new Optima Yellow-Top, replacing the old Optima Yellow-Top I had under warranty after two years. I replaced the battery after it went stone-dead on me one day. When putting the new battery in, I noticed that the positive terminal post collar (the thing that connects the battery cable to the post) was stretched and would no longer tighten on the post properly. I left it not-quite-tight-enough for a few days, during which time my starts were very weak, and the car needed to be jumped a time or two. I eventually replaced it with one of these:
> 
> ...


Make sure the clamps are really tight. I you can wiggle them at all, they are loose. The clamp and post are cone shaped. Loosen up the clamp, and tap it with a hammer until it stretches over the post. 
If it is not that, the most likely you have a parasitic draw. Do you have a multimeter?


----------



## Unilateral Phase Detractor (Aug 23, 2005)

VDub2625 said:


> Is there a reason the TDI Jetta (2012) I drove the other day, with automatic trans, had a slight pause in the creep after I took my foot off the brake (both drive and reverse)? To save fuel? Or is it because the diesel shouldn't have a slight load like that? Is it an engine/computer thing, or a trans/computer thing? Why don't gas engines do this?
> 
> Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk 2


I drove a 2012 2.5L Jetta and experienced the exact same thing. I think it may have been a hill holding feature that isn't calibrated very well. On the Focus for instance, the hill holder only activates when you're actually on a hill, but the Jetta does it every time.


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## ttvick (Aug 15, 2007)

monoaural said:


> Make sure the clamps are really tight. I you can wiggle them at all, they are loose. The clamp and post are cone shaped. Loosen up the clamp, and tap it with a hammer until it stretches over the post.
> If it is not that, the most likely you have a parasitic draw. Do you have a multimeter?


Everything around the battery is tight as a tick, and there's not much on this car to draw from the battery, though I admit that that sounds like the most likely issue. I just don't know what it could be. When I come to the close of a drive, HVAC/fan are off, radio is off, lights are off, cabin lights are off, etc. This car doesn't have much more than that. Could it still be the radio even if it's off? I have had an issue recently where the radio will switch modes on its own every once in a while when driving. I attributed this to the factory harness adapter to keep the on-dash radio controls working, but have not had time to troubleshoot it yet, and I felt that it was unrelated because the radio isn't getting power when the car is off anyway.

Also, I do have a multimeter, but I just moved out of state and my tools are back home. Unfortunately.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

ttvick said:


> Everything around the battery is tight as a tick, and there's not much on this car to draw from the battery, though I admit that that sounds like the most likely issue. I just don't know what it could be. When I come to the close of a drive, HVAC/fan are off, radio is off, lights are off, cabin lights are off, etc. This car doesn't have much more than that. Could it still be the radio even if it's off? I have had an issue recently where the radio will switch modes on its own every once in a while when driving. I attributed this to the factory harness adapter to keep the on-dash radio controls working, but have not had time to troubleshoot it yet, and I felt that it was unrelated because the radio isn't getting power when the car is off anyway.
> 
> Also, I do have a multimeter, but I just moved out of state and my tools are back home. Unfortunately.



Simple to diagnose.

Pull the radio out for a day.

If the problem persists, you've eliminated the radio as the issue.


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## NathanDetroit (Apr 28, 2012)

ttvick said:


> Everything around the battery is tight as a tick, and there's not much on this car to draw from the battery, though I admit that that sounds like the most likely issue. I just don't know what it could be. When I come to the close of a drive, HVAC/fan are off, radio is off, lights are off, cabin lights are off, etc. This car doesn't have much more than that. Could it still be the radio even if it's off? I have had an issue recently where the radio will switch modes on its own every once in a while when driving. I attributed this to the factory harness adapter to keep the on-dash radio controls working, but have not had time to troubleshoot it yet, and I felt that it was unrelated because the radio isn't getting power when the car is off anyway.
> 
> Also, I do have a multimeter, but I just moved out of state and my tools are back home. Unfortunately.


I had a similar issue on a completely different type of car. Turns out there was a short in the fog lamp switch and they would turn on randomly. Rather than replace the turn signal stalk I just pulled the fuse for the fog lamps. Ta-da!

Moral of the story: The parasitic drain may not be something you're actually using during your drive.


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## c0d3 (Mar 12, 2013)

Hey guys, i am completely new to the forum. I drive an '04 jetta 1.8t and i recently installed the Tsudo turbo back exhaust and ever since then my car seems to sometimes be sputtering when beginning to accelerate, as well as when idling. I have noticed that it seems to happen more often when the A/C in running. I have no idea what this could be and was hoping for some help.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

c0d3 said:


> Hey guys, i am completely new to the forum. I drive an '04 jetta 1.8t and i recently installed the Tsudo turbo back exhaust and ever since then my car seems to sometimes be sputtering when beginning to accelerate, as well as when idling. I have noticed that it seems to happen more often when the A/C in running. I have no idea what this could be and was hoping for some help.


Not enough info to diagnose.

Could be anything. Coil packs, maf, vacuum leak, plugs, O2 sensor, even things related to your exhaust.... Have you pulled any codes?


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## z0d (Oct 13, 2009)

TwoLitreVW said:


> Simple to diagnose.
> 
> Pull the radio out for a day.
> 
> If the problem persists, you've eliminated the radio as the issue.


Couldn't he just pull the radio fuse?


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

z0d said:


> Couldn't he just pull the radio fuse?


lol, good point.

i suppose that may be easier. :laugh:

assuming no funny business with the wiring harness, that should also eliminate the radio as the culprit.


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## c0d3 (Mar 12, 2013)

sorry, no there are no engine codes, thats why i reverted to the forums because every problem that i thought it might be would have thrown a code


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

First thought is that are you sure it's bolted up well? No exhaust leaks? Other than that it could be a number of things as mentioned. Start by checking for vaccuum leaks.


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## George683 (Aug 24, 2013)

here's one:
Do they really need to post "No Passing" signs on roads with a double yellow center line?


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## feels_road (Jan 27, 2005)

George683 said:


> here's one:
> Do they really need to post "No Passing" signs on roads with a double yellow center line?


I have been twice passed while slowing down with my left turn signal on, attempting to enter my drive way. So I'd say, sometimes every little bit helps?


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## c0d3 (Mar 12, 2013)

exhaust is welded on so im pretty sure its not a leak. and i'll try to check for vacuum leaks on sunday, will let you guys know what happens.


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## Denniswhat (Sep 12, 2007)

z0d said:


> Couldn't he just pull the radio fuse?


Now your on to something..

Get a Multi-meter that reads amps. Hook one end up to the negative battery post and one end up to the terminal while its still connected to the battery. Then slowly disconnect the negative terminal with the multi meter still hooked up. I would say anything over about 150miliamps is too much. 

To find the culprit have a partner start pulling fuses to see when the draw goes away and bingo you found your draw.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

It's not always that easy. There can be a multitude of items on a fuse. I was able to troubleshoot the battery drainage to the radio, but had to find the splice and separate that wire from a bundle of 9 wires to allow everything else to work. I simply installed a toggle switch to turn off just the radio when parked overnight.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Denniswhat said:


> Now your on to something..
> 
> Get a Multi-meter that reads amps. Hook one end up to the negative battery post and one end up to the terminal while its still connected to the battery. Then slowly disconnect the negative terminal with the multi meter still hooked up. I would say anything over about 150miliamps is too much.
> 
> To find the culprit have a partner start pulling fuses to see when the draw goes away and bingo you found your draw.


Do this with the meter in "20A" mode, or whatever the higher one is. You'll most likely blow out the lower rating fuse, and then you'll have top open up the meter to fix it.


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## c0d3 (Mar 12, 2013)

So i checked for vacuum leaks however as i was checking i noticed my lower pcv hose was completely ripped in half...pretty sure its not supposed to be like that  so im not sure if that has anything to do with it sputtering, maybe runnin rich because of it, so im replacing that when the part comes in, should be in this week....i'll keep you guys updated. Thanks for all the suggestions


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

ttvick said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I am having a curious issue with my '00 S2000. Recently the battery has been very weak, and it will not start the car after sitting for more than 24 hours. The battery is a new Optima Yellow-Top, replacing the old Optima Yellow-Top I had under warranty after two years. I replaced the battery after it went stone-dead on me one day. When putting the new battery in, I noticed that the positive terminal post collar (the thing that connects the battery cable to the post) was stretched and would no longer tighten on the post properly. I left it not-quite-tight-enough for a few days, during which time my starts were very weak, and the car needed to be jumped a time or two. I eventually replaced it with one of these:
> 
> ...


If possible, I would replace the entire cable with a factory unit. It might not seem like much but it's almost certainly worse than it looks. It's a big draw on a small battery and Japanese cars are not known for having extra length for modification or extra girth, so resistance builds quite easily. I've seen many battery cables that look fine on the outside literally 'crunch' when flexed. The worst one I ever saw looked perfectly fine, but sounded crunchy as hell. I split it open and it looked like green shredded wheat in there. I'd guess no more than 12 electrons got through there every minute!  :laugh:

If you can't replace the entire thing, get a longish cable and connect it to the original cable as far from the battery as possible. Outgassing of batteries in the past caused the problem, though not the Optima, as they don't outgas at all to my knowledge. Also, use dielectric grease on every connection, especially on stranded wire, as gas/air is in there and you want it sealed. :beer:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

c0d3 said:


> So i checked for vacuum leaks however as i was checking i noticed my lower pcv hose was completely ripped in half...pretty sure its not supposed to be like that  so im not sure if that has anything to do with it sputtering, maybe runnin rich because of it, so im replacing that when the part comes in, should be in this week....i'll keep you guys updated. Thanks for all the suggestions


I'm pretty sure the giant gaping hole in an intake pipe was the problem. 

This is why it's so necessary to just open the hood and look around. No one would suggest a giant split in a pipe because they assume you've done that already. 

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk 2


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## Snake Hips (Apr 16, 2012)

Rob Cote said:


> Just because the cam isn't spinning doesn't mean all the valves are closed.
> 
> What's the point you're trying to make? Honest question.


Exactly. The ones that are closed aren't going to provide any pressure because the spring is decompressed. Most valves will be somewhere between closed and open at any given point in crankshaft rotation, which is spring pressure against the cam. With multiple valve springs pressing pretty hard on the cam lobes, I cannot picture 2lb camshaft spinning by momentum against all those springs for much more than a revolution and a half. My point is VDub2625 was talking about how "the camshaft will slow down relative to the crank," and having compressed valve springs before, to me the cam wouldn't "slow down" so much as stop immediately between the various valves pressing back on it when it loses connection to the crankshaft.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Snake Hips said:


> With multiple valve springs pressing pretty hard on the cam lobes, I cannot picture 2lb camshaft spinning by momentum against all those springs for much more than a revolution and a half.


That's what I meant. I did make it sound like it would spin a lot, but I didn't mean it that way. Even one revolution not timed to the crank would be disastrous.

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk 2


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

If I wanted to make my own warning light strip, what kind of base material would I use? I understand having to silk screen layers to get it to shine through with the right color/shape, but if I needed some semi clear matte thin plastic, where would I find that?

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk 2


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## Kyle C (Jan 7, 2002)

^Regardless of what raw material you are looking for a good initial starting point is: www.mcmaster.com Look for "Raw Materials" on the home page.

For your application my initial guess would be polycarbonate, which I know is available in clear sheets, and I think is available semi-clear or "smoked".


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## C5 A6 (Apr 26, 2012)

When you get into a car accident, what's the best way to protect yourself and your case/claim afterwards?

Never been involved in an accident. I damn sure don't plan to have any,but things do happen and I would love to be properly prepared. I'm sure this is something I can easily google, but I'm interested in seeing what steps you guys take after an accident, as I'm not sure if there's different ways to handle things whether you assume you're at fault or if you assume you aren't.

What all information should you exchange? Should you call 911 and fill out police report? Anything from the basics, to any secret tips you may have learned over the years to protect yourself.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

C5 A6 said:


> When you get into a car accident, what's the best way to protect yourself and your case/claim afterwards?
> 
> Never been involved in an accident. I damn sure don't plan to have any,but things do happen and I would love to be properly prepared. I'm sure this is something I can easily google, but I'm interested in seeing what steps you guys take after an accident, as I'm not sure if there's different ways to handle things whether you assume you're at fault or if you assume you aren't.
> 
> What all information should you exchange? Should you call 911 and fill out police report? Anything from the basics, to any secret tips you may have learned over the years to protect yourself.


Accidents are accidents. You can't prepare for them because you don't know they're going to happen. Your legal responsibilities are quite simple, depending on your state. You are required to carry a driver's license and proof of insurance. Insurance requirements may vary but there are two types, liability and collision. Everyone is required to have liability insurance to pay for the damage you do to other's property and collision pays for the damage to your vehicle.

If you have full coverage and get in a accident that causes others to have losses your insurance company will step in and protect you personally, but if you're negligent many of those protections go away. Negligence can be determined in many ways such as drunk or impair driving or equipment failure, such as running on bald tires or modifying a vehicle in a way that makes it unsafe. Street racing is another exposure.

My best advice is to have a license, proof of insurance and registration for the vehicle to prove it's yours. I, personally, carry a high liability limit and a high deductible on my collision. Statistically, you save a lot of money carrying a high deductible, but risk having to pay the first $500-$1,000 yourself. The difference in premium can be substantial. If you have a lot to protect I'd recommend a personal umbrella policy that picks up when the limits of your normal policy are reached.

The best offense is a strong defense. Keep plenty of distance between you and the next car as hitting the rear of another car automatically puts you at fault for not having control of your car. It also allows you some time to make defensive maneuvers that you wouldn't have otherwise. Keep your car in reasonably good mechanical shape to limit your liability exposure and simply be aware of what's going on around you. Keep your partying to anywhere but your car and make sure you're capable before driving. There is no excuse for drunk/stoned driving.


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## air2desk (Feb 12, 2012)

Why did speedometer needles bounce up and down after going over bumps in older cars (70's/early 80's?)

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4


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## GTE77 (Sep 2, 2009)

air2desk said:


> Why did speedometer needles bounce up and down after going over bumps in older cars (70's/early 80's?)
> 
> Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4


Probally worn/loose gears. Most old cars use cable driven speedometers. Unless you driving so fast over bumps that wheels are airbourne.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

GTE77 said:


> Probally worn/loose gears. Most old cars use cable driven speedometers. Unless you driving so fast over bumps that wheels are airbourne.


It doesn't have to do with worn gears. They are cable driven but it's not direct. The cable spins a magnet that has JUST enough force to pull on another magnet attached to the needle. When the cable is spinning at a certain speed, it's enough to raise the needle to indicate that speed. There is also a return spring that the magnet must fight, and that is where calibration comes in. It's a delicate balancing act and outside forces can easily jar it. 

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk 4


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## Gitcha Sum (May 27, 2008)

What's the cheapest nitrous system I could create for a 2.5L Jeep motor, strictly for the fact of having a fun explosion before I put a V8 in it? 

Could I just run a bottle with a line straight into the intake?


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## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

C5 A6 said:


> When you get into a car accident, what's the best way to protect yourself and your case/claim afterwards?
> 
> Never been involved in an accident. I damn sure don't plan to have any,but things do happen and I would love to be properly prepared. I'm sure this is something I can easily google, but I'm interested in seeing what steps you guys take after an accident, as I'm not sure if there's different ways to handle things whether you assume you're at fault or if you assume you aren't.
> 
> What all information should you exchange? Should you call 911 and fill out police report? Anything from the basics, to any secret tips you may have learned over the years to protect yourself.





barry2952 said:


> Accidents are accidents. You can't prepare for them because you don't know they're going to happen....


No offense, Barry, but while your advice is good, I don't think you answered his question at all.

*C5 A6*, first off, follow all of Barry's advice. Here are other things to follow 

* Call the police and ask them to send someone out. They may not send someone out, but at least your call is on record. A police report will help in lots of cases. No accident is too small to get the police involved if insurances will be involved. Tell the police what happened.

* Carry a camera of some sort with you. Before cell phone cameras were common I carried a disposable camera in my glove box. After an accident, takes pictures of _everything_. Your car, his car, the other driver, passengers, the damage, license plates, the street, weather conditions, everything. You never know what may be useful later on. If you can, take a picture of the other party's insurance card.

* Exchange information with the other driver. Insurance cards and names is usually enough. The police will get the other party's name,etc to put on the report. 

* ALWAYS be calm and cool headed. There's no need to yell and scream. Police usually take the word of the calmest person at the scene. And there's nothing that can be gained from yelling at the other driver. 

* Do not admit guilt to the other party. Do not tell them what kind of limits you have on your insurance. They can use that information against you. Ask if the other party is okay.

I'll add more tips if I can think of them.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Kyle C said:


> ^Regardless of what raw material you are looking for a good initial starting point is: www.mcmaster.com Look for "Raw Materials" on the home page.
> 
> For your application my initial guess would be polycarbonate, which I know is available in clear sheets, and I think is available semi-clear or "smoked".


Thank you! I found this:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-plastic-film/=od1lsg
(impact-resistant polycarbonate, since the website won't let me link it directly)

I got the thinnest possible, as that seemed right, and I specified matte one side, shiny the other. I should be able to print out a reverse color sheet with the icons I want,. and then paint over those with the color I want them to show up as. Make sense? 

I've never silk screened before, wish me luck...


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## ph03n1x (Feb 22, 2011)

This coming Friday I'm going to have a new clutch kit put in my GTI. And the week after that I'm planning on putting new brake pads in and changing the brake fluid. Since the clutch shares fluid from the brake reservoir, when I flush the brake fluid, will I have to do it to the clutch too? If so, how do I go about doing it?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I'm assuming someone is installing the clutch kit, because I would suggest just changing the fluid all at once, and doing the pads yourself separately afterward. You don't HAVE to do the fluid and pads together. 

But, in your situation, I wouldn't worry. They'll ad fluid and bleed the clutch like normal, and you can do the pads and brake fluid on your own later. If you are concerned about old fluid in the clutch system, just bleed it again when you do the brakes. It's a small amount extra fluid.

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk 4


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## ph03n1x (Feb 22, 2011)

VDub2625 said:


> I'm assuming someone is installing the clutch kit, because I would suggest just changing the fluid all at once, and doing the pads yourself separately afterward. You don't HAVE to do the fluid and pads together.
> 
> But, in your situation, I wouldn't worry. They'll ad fluid and bleed the clutch like normal, and you can do the pads and brake fluid on your own later. If you are concerned about old fluid in the clutch system, just bleed it again when you do the brakes. It's a small amount extra fluid.
> 
> Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk 4


So will they will flush the entire system and I can save myself a couple bucks?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

If you ask them to do it I'm sure it'll count as an extra service they charge you for since it's not required to do the clutch. 

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk 4


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## Pool Runner (Aug 17, 2009)

Electric cars, Leaf, Volt, Tesla etc.... I've never driven one. Is it possible to put in neutral and "rev" the electric motor? I know stupid question, I'm just curious.


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## My Big (Dec 26, 2010)

how come tires chirp 2nd gear on some cars so easy? strong clutch?


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## 1.8TRabbit (Nov 15, 2004)

Honest question{s} 

1- Why are you required to replace all 4 tires on AWD cars?

2- I saw a Michelin Tires video at Costco stating that the rear tires are the MOST important tires on all cars.. This true? I understand for rear stability. But for FWD, would the traction be the "most" important? (I tried to find the AD online and was not able to locate)

Thanks In Advance:thumbup:


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

Pool Runner said:


> Electric cars, Leaf, Volt, Tesla etc.... I've never driven one. Is it possible to put in neutral and "rev" the electric motor? I know stupid question, I'm just curious.


 I know with RC brushless motors(I believe the tesla is the same), no load reving can lead to engine failure. Of course the RC stuff is capable of spinning over 100k rpm with no load. 


1.8TRabbit said:


> Honest question{s}
> 
> 1- Why are you required to replace all 4 tires on AWD cars?
> 
> ...


For the AWD cars, the diff will see the different rotations per mile as slip, and transfer power the whole time, thus burning it out. 

And the rear tires are most important because with less traction in the rear, though fun, can be unsafe for an unsuspecting driver. This matter mostly when the road is slick. I know in my e30, got a little slip going and was completely expecting it to stick, so I panicked an let off the gas and ended up wrong way forward. It had just began to sprinkle.
When you let off the gas, the weight transfers to the front and off the back, which could mean a loss of traction. And with FWD, the thing that feels wrong is the best thing which is more throttle. 
Just case in point.


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## fomin23 (Jun 8, 2011)

C5 A6 said:


> When you get into a car accident, what's the best way to protect yourself and your case/claim afterwards?
> 
> Never been involved in an accident. I damn sure don't plan to have any,but things do happen and I would love to be properly prepared. I'm sure this is something I can easily google, but I'm interested in seeing what steps you guys take after an accident, as I'm not sure if there's different ways to handle things whether you assume you're at fault or if you assume you aren't.
> 
> What all information should you exchange? Should you call 911 and fill out police report? Anything from the basics, to any secret tips you may have learned over the years to protect yourself.


1. Take Pictures
2. Go take even more pictures
3. Thats not enough. Take a few more
4. Always call the cops. Always. A police report will go a long way in a claim.

My mom just got in an accident a few days ago. My mom was standing at a stop sign. An old grandma (who shouldn't even be driving anymore) couldn't make a wide enough left turn on her 2014 Kia Cadenza, goes onto opposite lane, and hits my mom.

Her car has a small scratch on it. My mom's car has frame damage. Lady called the insurance company and said she did not hit my mom.

Good thing my mom took a million pictures, and called the cops, who came and wrote a report, putting the grandma at fault.

Here is a pic.


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## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

1.8TRabbit said:


> 2- I saw a Michelin Tires video at Costco stating that the rear tires are the MOST important tires on all cars.. This true? I understand for rear stability. But for FWD, would the traction be the "most" important? (I tried to find the AD online and was not able to locate)


Rear tires being more important is true. It's mainly for adverse conditions. Lets say all of your tires are 50% worn and you but a new pair. Let's see what happens in each case.

1) When the new tires are on the front, the rear loses traction first. So it can send the rear out and around the front ( a spin). It's true that the new tires on the front will help with driving traction, but if the car starts to understeer (from being over confident) and you let up off the gas, you now have an immediate oversteer situation. 

2) With the new tires on the rear, the front tires lose traction first. That means that you'll end up driving slower. If you start driving to fast, you'll get an understeer situation, but letting off the gas simply bring the front end in because the rear still has traction.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

How to crazy engine swaps work? I understand using an adapter/spacer plate to mate an engine to a strange transmission, but how does the clutch fit inside of that, and connect a crank to a different kind of input shaft?


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

VDub2625 said:


> How to crazy engine swaps work? I understand using an adapter/spacer plate to mate an engine to a strange transmission, but how does the clutch fit inside of that, and connect a crank to a different kind of input shaft?


The clutch uses friction material (something like brake pads) to make contact with the face of the flywheel.

Here's a basic explanation that includes the parts, their functions, and an animation:
http://youtu.be/6BaECAbapRg


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I understand how clutches work, but what I mean is, do you have to get a custom clutch made or something like that? Is that not difficult to do? Do you make the clutch from the trans car fit the crank of the swapped engine? That makes the most sense to me, as it also keeps the trans's way of activating the clutch.

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk 4


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

VDub2625 said:


> I understand how clutches work, but what I mean is, do you have to get a custom clutch made or something like that? Is that not difficult to do? Do you make the clutch from the trans car fit the crank of the swapped engine? That makes the most sense to me, as it also keeps the trans's way of activating the clutch.
> 
> Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk 4


Ah. Short answer is that it depends. Usually, the clutch assembly is fit to the transmission application, and a flywheel will be fit to the engine side that can work with the disc in question.

So the real magic happens between a suitable disc and flywheel.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*FV-QR*

Makes sense. I was also thinking, an adapter plate to bolt the flywheel onto the engine would take up the gap created by an extended bellhousing with adapter plate.


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## Lifelong Obsession (Jul 24, 2011)

spirroncello said:


> is it better to put 94 octane gas in your car, when all it needs is 88? i don't think it is, but my dad fills up his car with 94 when it needs 88, he says it's better for fuel injectors.


Is there some type of tune on the engine?


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## Lifelong Obsession (Jul 24, 2011)

How do you decide whether to call 911 after an accident or the non-emergency police number, especially if you can't clearly tell what's going on with the other car's occupants?

I know it sounds really dumb, but I would neither want to be charged with a fraudulent 911 call nor would I want the other driver/occupants claiming I fled the accident scene because I didn't call 911.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Lifelong Obsession said:


> How do you decide whether to call 911 after an accident or the non-emergency police number, especially if you can't clearly tell what's going on with the other car's occupants?
> 
> I know it sounds really dumb, but I would neither want to be charged with a fraudulent 911 call nor would I want the other driver/occupants claiming I fled the accident scene because I didn't call 911.


You can only be charged with fleeing the scene if you..... Flee the scene.

Also, you won't be fined with a fraudulent 911 call if you're reporting an accident. Calling because your cable is out, however....

Generally, I won't call 911 unless someone is hurt.

No injuries? The nonemergency number is just fine. 

If you can't tell whether they're OK or not, get out of your car, walk over, and ask.


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## Mabe (Feb 27, 2002)

Rut7Turner said:


> If you had the manufacturing/fabricating means available, could you put a turbo on any engine? Say, a 22RE? And I mean a big turbo, like something off a tractor trailer.


Within reason. The host engine needs to move enough air to spin the turbine.

...


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## mbp487 (May 14, 2012)

maybe better suited to the car buying forum but im over starting a new thread just for this question lol

what are the potential pitfalls of buying exhaust/intakes used? neither of them really have any moving parts that can malfunction so really its down to rust/corrosion on the exhaust and a busted/worn filter on the intake right?


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## 20aeman (Jun 8, 2006)

mbp487 said:


> maybe better suited to the car buying forum but im over starting a new thread just for this question lol
> 
> what are the potential pitfalls of buying exhaust/intakes used? neither of them really have any moving parts that can malfunction so really its down to rust/corrosion on the exhaust and a busted/worn filter on the intake right?


Most quality exhausts are stainless steel, and shouldn't have any corrosion issues. The more serious pitfalls would be the muffler. Depending on the type of muffler and how long it's been used, it may have some sound degradation and may need to be repacked/replaced. The flex sections are also extra vulnerable and can potentially leak/mushroom. 

Intake is fine, I would replace the filter element and you're good to go.


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## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

Lifelong Obsession said:


> How do you decide whether to call 911 after an accident or the *non-emergency police number*, especially if you can't clearly tell what's going on with the other car's occupants?
> 
> I know it sounds really dumb, but I would neither want to be charged with a fraudulent 911 call nor would I want the other driver/occupants claiming I fled the accident scene because I didn't call 911.


How often do you know the non-emergency police number of the district you're in? At home, sure. But if you're out and about you probably won't know the local non-emergency number. 

Maybe other places are different, but here there's multiple districts even inside one county.


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## feels_road (Jan 27, 2005)

Lifelong Obsession said:


> How do you decide whether to call 911 after an accident or the non-emergency police number, especially if you can't clearly tell what's going on with the other car's occupants?


As has been said, don't over-think it. Some areas are set up such that 911 will direct to highway patrol, while the local police is supposed to be called when outside of highways. So, if there are clearly no serious injuries, call the local police department (which may involve a 411 call beforehand). If you are not sure, of course 911. Better to be safe, and there are no repercussions.


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## Brett92 (Nov 20, 2002)

1) Is it okay to tighten lugs on an automatic front wheel drive car with the tires off the ground? Not 100% tight, but say 90% tight.

2) Are alignment specs relatively universal, or are they specific to each car? I've heard of manufacturers having specific alignment settings for certain cars and wondered if wheel/tire shops have access to this information, or are they just going off of some generic type measurement. Wondering if the dealer is the best place for an alignment.

Thanks.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Brett92 said:


> 1) Is it okay to tighten lugs on an automatic front wheel drive car with the tires off the ground? Not 100% tight, but say 90% tight.


as long as they're torqued to spec when they're on the ground, you'll be ok.




> 2) Are alignment specs relatively universal, or are they specific to each car? I've heard of manufacturers having specific alignment settings for certain cars and wondered if wheel/tire shops have access to this information, or are they just going off of some generic type measurement. Wondering if the dealer is the best place for an alignment.



alignment specs are vehicle-specific, but you can also just dial in whatever it is you'd like to see on it, or leave it as neutral as possible.

generally, most modern alignment racks have a directory of what factory specs are for most road-going vehicles. when an alignment tech puts your car on the rack, he'll punch in the year, make, model, and it'll give him what the manufacturer specs are. however, that doesn't stop you from spelling out exactly what you want in terms of spec, if you're looking for something specific, or in the event you're running a modified suspension.


the dealer is most certainly not always the best place for an alignment.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

That brings me to a more nebulous alignment question. Probably a bit too open ended, but ehn. 
Lets say you have a lowered car. A cup kit, so matched shocks and springs lowering in the range of 2 inches. What specs do you go by then? I know the Miata guys have a few people that have put forth specs.
On a Mcpherson stut, that means you now have more camber, assuming that that it was set in the same spot. (Unless I am wrong) If you adjust that out, you may be changing the geometry significantly. (I am two beers in, so my logic may be slightly flawed.)


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

monoaural said:


> On a Mcpherson stut, that means you now have more camber, assuming that that it was set in the same spot.


Correct.



monoaural said:


> If you adjust that out, you may be changing the geometry significantly.


I don't believe this is true. All the alignment properties are individually adjustable in every case I've encountered.


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## Brett92 (Nov 20, 2002)

TwoLitreVW said:


> as long as they're torqued to spec when they're on the ground, you'll be ok.
> 
> 
> 
> generally, most modern alignment racks have a directory of what factory specs are for most road-going vehicles. when an alignment tech puts your car on the rack, he'll punch in the year, make, model, and it'll give him what the manufacturer specs are.


Thanks for the very detailed answers. :thumbup:


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## mbp487 (May 14, 2012)

20aeman said:


> Most quality exhausts are stainless steel, and shouldn't have any corrosion issues. The more serious pitfalls would be the muffler. Depending on the type of muffler and how long it's been used, it may have some sound degradation and may need to be repacked/replaced. The flex sections are also extra vulnerable and can potentially leak/mushroom.
> 
> Intake is fine, I would replace the filter element and you're good to go.


Is it fairly easy to tell if a muffler needs repacking/replacement? (Eg by the way it sounds?) Or do you have to take everything apart first to see the internals and the diagnose it?


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## compy222 (Apr 8, 2005)

mbp487 said:


> Is it fairly easy to tell if a muffler needs repacking/replacement? (Eg by the way it sounds?) Or do you have to take everything apart first to see the internals and the diagnose it?


often times the hassle of doing this isn't worth the cost of a new generic muffler...easier to just replace a muffler.

or be cool and just run a resonator or two with no muffler. :laugh::thumbup:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Brett92 said:


> 1) Is it okay to tighten lugs on an automatic front wheel drive car with the tires off the ground? Not 100% tight, but say 90% tight.
> 
> 2) Are alignment specs relatively universal, or are they specific to each car? I've heard of manufacturers having specific alignment settings for certain cars and wondered if wheel/tire shops have access to this information, or are they just going off of some generic type measurement. Wondering if the dealer is the best place for an alignment.
> 
> Thanks.


I think you're curious if it'll damage the transmission? No, you'll be fine. The parking prawl will keep the wheel from moving for you. But as said, tighten it on the ground, like always. 



mbp487 said:


> Is it fairly easy to tell if a muffler needs repacking/replacement? (Eg by the way it sounds?) Or do you have to take everything apart first to see the internals and the diagnose it?


Don't overthink it. if it sounds like what you want, buy it. As long as it isn't rusty


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

So running your AC lowers millage... Does it matter how high (cold) the AC is set ?

I mean, if its set to 'low' am I getting better millage than if its set to 'high' :sly:


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## dorkage (Jul 7, 2009)

skydive_007 said:


> So running your AC lowers millage... Does it matter how high (cold) the AC is set ?
> 
> I mean, if its set to 'low' am I getting better millage than if its set to 'high' :sly:


My understanding is that the variable geometry AC compressors are quite efficient and will not load the engine as much of the demand for cooling is less. The hotter / more humid it is the harder the compressor works, the more load it then puts on the engine. Magic if you ask me.


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## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

skydive_007 said:


> So running your AC lowers millage... Does it matter how high (cold) the AC is set ?
> 
> *I mean, if its set to 'low' am I getting better millage than if its set to 'high'* :sly:


Are you referring to the temperature or the fan speed?

Either way, both are negligible. The higher fan speed does use more electricity to run, but nothing you'd notice. The warmer the air is set at just means that more of the conditioned air is going over the heater core. So no difference there.

But the newer the car the more efficient the A/C compressors are, in general.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

skydive_007 said:


> So running your AC lowers millage... Does it matter how high (cold) the AC is set ?
> 
> I mean, if its set to 'low' am I getting better millage than if its set to 'high' :sly:


no difference.

the effect is the parasitic drag of the compressor when engaged.

if the a/c is on, you've got the compressor engaged, creating drag. the actual a/c setting is irrelevant in the cabin.

with the a/c off, your compressor wheel is as close to freewheeling as possible, decreasing parasitic drag.


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## Kyle C (Jan 7, 2002)

monoaural said:


> That brings me to a more nebulous alignment question. Probably a bit too open ended, but ehn.
> Lets say you have a lowered car. A cup kit, so matched shocks and springs lowering in the range of 2 inches. What specs do you go by then? I know the Miata guys have a few people that have put forth specs.
> On a Mcpherson stut, that means you now have more camber, assuming that that it was set in the same spot. (Unless I am wrong) If you adjust that out, you may be changing the geometry significantly. (I am two beers in, so my logic may be slightly flawed.)


You need to decide what you want out of the new suspension. Did you lower the car to get better handling or just to make it look better?

If you just wanted the looks get the alignment as close as possible to the OEM specs. If they can't get the toe back to zero, or if the camber is more than lets say -2 degrees you need to do some shopping for aftermarket parts.

If you want the car to handle better do some research on your specific vehicle, find out what autoX or road course racers use, and then come up with your own compromise between alignment/handling and tire wear.


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## THE KILLER RABBIT (Jun 2, 2003)

whats the protocol if an ambulance with a patient gets into an accident either minor or major, id imagine if there is no patient dispatch would simply transfer to a different unit


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

THE KILLER RABBIT said:


> whats the protocol if an ambulance with a patient gets into an accident either minor or major, id imagine if there is no patient dispatch would simply transfer to a different unit


I don't know, but since it's sorta kinda but totally not relevant, except that I just witnessed it the other day - ambulances wait at railroad crossings. It was two in one shot, too. The ambulance was just chilling there in the middle of the intersection, lights flashing, while the trains just moseyed through.

And I'm sitting there all, "PEOPLE ARE DYING LET THIS MAN THROUGH!"


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

dorkage said:


> My understanding is that the variable geometry AC compressors are quite efficient and will not load the engine as much of the demand for cooling is less. The hotter / more humid it is the harder the compressor works, the more load it then puts on the engine. Magic if you ask me.


I did not know this. I always subscribed to the ideas posted after this post. Makes sense, though. is this only a newer car thing?


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

VDub2625 said:


> Makes sense, though. is this only a newer car thing?


Not really "new" anymore. My 2002 has one. 

I don't think the 96 does. The compressor just cycles on and off dependent on pressure.


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## c0d3 (Mar 12, 2013)

TwoLitreVW said:


> Not enough info to diagnose.
> 
> Could be anything. Coil packs, maf, vacuum leak, plugs, O2 sensor, even things related to your exhaust.... Have you pulled any codes?


Just for clarification purposes, i drive a 2004 jetta 1.8t awp and all i have done to it is an afe SRI, and the tsudo TBE, and i plan on getting unitronic stage 2 flash next week...however i went to autozone and decided to read CEL before i got the ecu flashed.

So, i did pull some codes on my car and i got three codes:

p0411-i have no clue what this code is and what would cause it

p0442-autozone said prob gas cap

p0135- i am running a tsudo TBE, which is a catless exhaust and i used a o2 bypass, but i thought that was supposed to get rid of that code?

car is still idling funny and exhaust is popping, help?


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## VR6 GLX Man (May 20, 2008)

^^^^^^

secondary air pump/ p0411

gas cap and purge valve/ p0442

O2 Sensor Heater Circuit/ p0135

The last two where scanned off of audis, but there around the same year as your 2004 1.8.

Also check in the 1.8 technical engine forum


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## c0d3 (Mar 12, 2013)

VR6 GLX Man said:


> ^^^^^^
> 
> secondary air pump/ p0411
> 
> ...


Thanx, will check those out...after i tune the car for my exhaust


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*FV-QR*

How come brake pads delaminate? I've had two seperate pads lose their backing on the car I'm driving now. I'm guessing neglect, but still, that seems like something that shouldn't happen.


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## Giovanni (May 13, 2000)

what is the diff bet AWD and 4WD?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

*FV-QR*

I believe it's marketing at this point. But generally (and how I prefer to see it), AWD is non-selectable, automatic in most cases. 4WD is selectable, usually has high and low range, and lockable in some cases. That's my view, anwyay, and it was the case with my Explorer (which had 4WD: 4-auto, 4WD high, and 4WD low on the switch, while the V8 versions had "AWD" and no selector switch at all).


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Giovanni said:


> what is the diff bet AWD and 4WD?


AWD generally has a bias for drive wheels, and only sends power to the other wheels when slip is detected in the primary drive wheels (either by some kind of LSD or electronic actuation). Additionally, the amount of torque sent can vary according to conditions. AWD systems are full time and cannot be disengaged.

With 4WD, you've generally got power sent to all corners all the time, and may or may not be regulated by lockers and/or LSDs (newer electronic systems also exist). 4WD can be disengaged, thereby rendering the car 2WD, either mechanically or electronically. 

With the advent of modern vehicle electronics, it's getting harder to tell them apart save for the ability to disengage the system.


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## kenny301 (Aug 30, 2001)

Do car manufacturers have a 900 pound gorilla that screws oil filters on at the factory? Did the first oil change on a challenger with a friend yesterday and I have never had so much trouble getting a filter off before.


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## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

kenny301 said:


> Do car manufacturers have a 900 pound gorilla that screws oil filters on at the factory? Did the first oil change on a challenger with a friend yesterday and I have never had so much trouble getting a filter off before.


That seems to be a common problem with a lot of cars. The factory oil filter is put on the car extremely tightly.


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## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

I've started to notice classic '60s convertibles with glass windows in the roof. They're obviously designed to fold along a silicone hinge (2 pieces of glass). Anyone know when these showed up? I don't remember those cars coming that way; seems they were all plastic.


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

o2j = 5 speed and o2m= 6 speed... correct ?


*edit, found it... why do the clutches have to be different though :banghead:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

skydive_007 said:


> o2j = 5 speed and o2m= 6 speed... correct ?
> 
> 
> *edit, found it... why do the clutches have to be different though :banghead:


Yes, at their most basic, that's the differences. but also, the transmissions are NOTHING like each other, internally, clutch-wise, or motor-mount wise. The 02M was a clean-sheet design. The 02Q from a Mk5 is similar, though (kinda like how the 02A/J/B/S/A4 are related).

The 02S is a 6 speed 02A-style transmission with an aftermarket 6th gear conversion VW bought and started installing OEM on lower level transmissions in Europe (1.4TDI, etc). ETKA lists the 02S here in the USA too, but I am not completely sure if we actually get it or not.


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

on that note, for a mostly stock motor on a 24V ... What clutch would you guys recommend from ECS (I have to buy from them as Im returning the wrong one)


http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--VR6_24v/Drivetrain/Clutch/


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I don't see why you wouldn't just buy a stock one.


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## Spray` (Nov 21, 2005)

I can't get the bolt off the positive terminal to put my battery tender on it. Can I put it on the b+ nut on the fuse box instead?


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

VDub2625 said:


> I don't see why you wouldn't just buy a stock one.


I already have an o2j to return to them... I cant return it for $


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

Spray` said:


> I can't get the bolt off the positive terminal to put my battery tender on it. Can I put it on the b+ nut on the fuse box instead?


 Which car? 
If on your 135: Correct, you _cannot_ remove the nut on the battery clamp (not without risking severe damage to the bolt, which cannot be replaced.) 

Go ahead and connect the battery tender's little pigtail to the M8 (13mm hex) nut on the distribution box (and, to the nut securing the battery ground cable to the body.) 
So long as you put ring terminals on it(!!!!), instead of looping the wires under the nuts, and so long as the nuts are properly torqued (hint: it's on the box!), it'll be just fine.


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## Spray` (Nov 21, 2005)

On my z06, the battery dies all the time, so I bought a Ctek. 

I put the eyehole thing through the back nut of this new terminal I got while installing my stereo on the black. On the red I couldn't get that one off, so I hooked it to the b+ on accessory. It just said it's fully charged...so I guess it's working?



cuppie said:


> Which car?
> If on your 135: Correct, you _cannot_ remove the nut on the battery clamp (not without risking severe damage to the bolt, which cannot be replaced.)
> 
> Go ahead and connect the battery tender's little pigtail to the M8 (13mm hex) nut on the distribution box (and, to the nut securing the battery ground cable to the body.)
> So long as you put ring terminals on it(!!!!), instead of looping the wires under the nuts, and so long as the nuts are properly torqued (hint: it's on the box!), it'll be just fine.


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## ph03n1x (Feb 22, 2011)

Why do mk6 GTIs suck so much from a dig?


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Driver mod.


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## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

I am looking to buy a used head that only has a couple thousand miles on it. Under 5.. but has been sitting for the past 7 year with the cams out. Should I be worried about the valve stem seals or anything moving

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

Doesn't matter if the cams were in it or not. 7 years of sitting, I'd be putting valve seals in it. 
It's not like they're expensive, nor difficult to replace when the head's already out.... 

Just get a head gasket set, and go thru it real quick.


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## z0d (Oct 13, 2009)

cuppie said:


> Doesn't matter if the cams were in it or not. 7 years of sitting, I'd be putting valve seals in it.
> It's not like they're expensive, nor difficult to replace when the head's already out....
> 
> Just get a head gasket set, and go thru it real quick.


Yeah, with the head already out, there's no sense in skipping over the chance to take care of all of your gaskets, valve stem seals, maybe even your lifters and springs if you're feeling adventurous. This stuff isn't very expensive [for most applications], and having this separate head saves you all the hassle that usually goes into them - getting it off and having to get it done before you can make the car driveable again.


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## 2ohgti (Nov 8, 2004)

I have one: why do Honda owners (loud exhaust) always have to rev their engines at a stop or before they start moving in stop and go traffic? I very rarely see anyone in other modified cars do this.


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

2ohgti said:


> I have one: why do Honda owners (loud exhaust) always have to rev their engines at a stop or before they start moving in stop and go traffic? I very rarely see anyone in other modified cars do this.


No torks.


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## 2ohgti (Nov 8, 2004)

saron81 said:


> No torks.


:laugh:

I thought it was to keep the idle up so the car doesn't stop running..


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## mbp487 (May 14, 2012)

Donde esta el vacuum hose? I'm trying to treat the engine to a little sea-foam.

Also, as far as the using the sea foam goes the procedure is to slowly pour a third of a can into the vacuum hose until the engine stalls out, wait ~5 min, and then start it up and let it flush itself out correct?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

It may not stall, but yes, (engine fully warm), suck it in quick, turn it off, let it sit for 5-10, then restart and drive until the smoke goes away.


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## mbp487 (May 14, 2012)

So which is the vacuum hose? I don't want to go pulling things apart aimlessly if possible lol

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I can't say specifically on that car (in sure someone else can), but I can tell you you should look for a small line that feeds the intake manifold in a place that ALL cylinders will get it evenly, and preferably after the throttle.


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## 1990MoneyPit (Jul 7, 2010)

Inspired by the "what engine and transmission would you use" thread...

I know there are countless transmissions like the ZF 8AT, Tremec TR-6060, GM 6L50, etc. that are shared across many different brands.

Other than the bellhousing pattern and max torque rating, what factors come into play when determining what engines will work with what transmissions (under the assumption that said transmission's gear ratios are suitable to the powerband of said engine)?

For instance, is there anything stopping me from bolting up a VQ35DE or J35 to, say, the Aisin AY-6 transmission in my car? Computer issues I assume...?


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

1990MoneyPit said:


> Inspired by the "what engine and transmission would you use" thread...
> 
> I know there are countless transmissions like the ZF 8AT, Tremec TR-6060, GM 6L50, etc. that are shared across many different brands.
> 
> ...


So realistically, not much. The bellhousing obviously would have to change and the transmission management. 
to answer your question: Input and output torque rating, desired operating speeds, a set of gear ratios the OEM likes, service intervals, size, ability of the transmission control to integrate well with the current vehicle management, and cost. There are also some party lines where some OEM's would preferrentially deal with certain companies over others, etc. though that's starting to go away a little.


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

mbp487 said:


> So which is the vacuum hose? I don't want to go pulling things apart aimlessly if possible lol
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


Pick a hose that goes into a casting boss on the intake mani, and is between the valves an the TB. 
I'd pulling a vacuum hose will throw a code, but it's a VW, you'd be more concerned if the all clear engine light was off.


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## JJS119 (Aug 26, 2008)

Is SHO, like Taurus SHO, pronounced "S-H-O" or "show?"


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

JJS119 said:


> Is SHO, like Taurus SHO, pronounced "S-H-O" or "show?"


Yes.


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## UsernameValid (Aug 2, 2013)

TwoLitreVW said:


> Yes.


I agree


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## VWestlife (Sep 29, 2004)

JJS119 said:


> Is SHO, like Taurus SHO, pronounced "S-H-O" or "show?"


It used to be S-H-O, but for the current generation they changed it to "show".


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## trigtm (Mar 20, 2006)

MAG58 said:


> So realistically, not much. The bellhousing obviously would have to change and the transmission management.
> to answer your question: Input and output torque rating, desired operating speeds, a set of gear ratios the OEM likes, service intervals, size, ability of the transmission control to integrate well with the current vehicle management, and cost. There are also some party lines where some OEM's would preferrentially deal with certain companies over others, etc. though that's starting to go away a little.


Make sure the input shaft is the same size and that the engine spins in the correct direction. Some Hondas (maybe others) spin opposite to most others.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I have a convertible. Is there anything I can do to prolong it's life, and properly clean it? It is black canvas. Ideas range from fabric softener (probably bad, as it would weaken the fabric bond), to scotchgard (not a bad idea, in my head at least?) 

Advice? I feel really stupid when it comes to this sort of thing. Car is parked outside all year, covered and not used in the winter.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

They make specialized cleaners that have UV protectant in them.


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## Ed52 (May 21, 2001)

Can diesel exhaust fumes cause carbon monoxide poisoning as a gasoline engine does?


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## DarkNeo (Jun 19, 2004)

VDub2625 said:


> I have a convertible. Is there anything I can do to prolong it's life, and properly clean it? It is black canvas. Ideas range from fabric softener (probably bad, as it would weaken the fabric bond), to scotchgard (not a bad idea, in my head at least?)
> 
> Advice? I feel really stupid when it comes to this sort of thing. Car is parked outside all year, covered and not used in the winter.


303 protectant


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## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

HotrodMinivan said:


> I am by no means a professional detailer but my my first thought is to scrub it with some 303 Aerospace Protectant every so often.
> 
> I drive two manual transmission Hondas. Why are they so much easier to get into gear when the engine is off/stopped at a stoplight than when I'm actually driving them?


Because when the engine is off, nothing is turning. You're not waiting for the synchros to do their thing. At idle and the clutch in it's basically the same thing.


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## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

When the time comes for the next model year of a car to come out, for example 2013 to 2014, can the change be tracked down to a particular day? Are final 2013 models built on a Tuesday, then 2014 models built on Wednesday?

Also, in the case of a subsequent year with model updates, are the 2014 models updates just kept in the corner of the production facility, then when the change comes the new parts are included in the cars? Or as the cars are coming down the line, some will have the parts installed and marked as 2014, but the cars without the parts are marked as 2013? 

Is there ever a case where a year-2014 model update and changeover occurred in October 2013, but some 2013-marked cars also included some of the new parts?


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## Omnilith (Jan 15, 2010)

DonPatrizio said:


> When the time comes for the next model year of a car to come out, for example 2013 to 2014, can the change be tracked down to a particular day? Are final 2013 models built on a Tuesday, then 2014 models built on Wednesday?
> 
> Also, in the case of a subsequent year with model updates, are the 2014 models updates just kept in the corner of the production facility, then when the change comes the new parts are included in the cars? Or as the cars are coming down the line, some will have the parts installed and marked as 2014, but the cars without the parts are marked as 2013?
> 
> Is there ever a case where a year-2014 model update and changeover occurred in October 2013, but some 2013-marked cars also included some of the new parts?


Basically there is a "last build date" where the 2013 production stops. After a changeover than takes an unspecified number of days, the 2014 production can begin. Typically refresh parts do not make it on the previous model year as the inventory levels are set to deplete at the end of the previous year build.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

With VW, the changeover is usually July/august. Most manufacturers start tree next model year a few months early, at the beginning of a month. 

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Oh and for a lot of major changes, vw records the vin numbers of the last/first cars before/after the change, as well. Some minor changes (such as in tje deign of a part) happen in the middle of a run, in which case there's always a record of the vin before/after. 

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk


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## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

That is interesting. I did not know.


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## Giovanni (May 13, 2000)

why are people here always making disparaging remarks about FWD? 

it seems as if nobody wants a FWD car around here and they are terrible machines. 

RWD is that much better?


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## Quinn1.8t (Oct 8, 2006)

Giovanni said:


> RWD is that much better?


Yep!



But seriously, oversteer is really really fun.


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## NaturallyAspirated (Jul 17, 2013)

Giovanni said:


> RWD is that much better?


With a good RWD setup and if you drive the car hard, yes, RWD feels better. Reasons:

1. Better weight balance, FWD cars tend to be more nose heavy, which creates more understeer. Mild understeer is actually not a bad thing to make the car more stable through the corners but too much can be fun-killing.

2. It's better not having the same wheels driving the car also do the turning. You want to have each tire only perform one task at the time so they are not overworked which throws off the balance of the car. Same applies to you don't want to brake and turn at the same time. On the track, what you want to do is brake hard ahead of the turn then gradually increase your speed out of the turn.

That's all I can think of at this moment, I am prett sure I missed a few.


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## dorkage (Jul 7, 2009)

VDub2625 said:


> Oh and for a lot of major changes, vw records the vin numbers of the last/first cars before/after the change, as well. Some minor changes (such as in tje deign of a part) happen in the middle of a run, in which case there's always a record of the vin before/after.
> 
> Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk


Incorrect. They did not have records of the crank pulley bolts changing to the later PD style ones on my friends 2003.5 ALH.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

dorkage said:


> Incorrect. They did not have records of the crank pulley bolts changing to the later PD style ones on my friends 2003.5 ALH.


Oh my, they missed one thing on one uncommon engine in one half of a model year on your buddy's car (that was never messed with by any other mechanic, ever), and of course the parts guy at the dealership your buddy went to was 110% good at his job. Oh, and the bolts were never ever superseded because, well, maybe the older style worked just fine after all and bolted right into place. That means my entire statement is completely wrong. THE HORROR! 

People are SO quick to prove people wrong. How is it up on that horse of yours?

I won't get into the inaccuracies of ETKA (there are many), but your quick-to-judge comment really holds no merit. They do actually keep records. If those records actually made it into the parts program correctly (as well as substitutions and replacements over the years), well, that's another story. There are a TON of wrong parts listed for older cars, because they simply photocopied the microfiche, and used OCR software to convert it to a digital format. Also, they started with the German built and sold catalog, and then added/edited/changed based on regional production and sales. So some stuff gets lost. It happens. I never claimed it was perfect, I just said they do actually do that. 

There are so many factors that could explain that, that it's mind-boggling that you'd choose one anecdotal story as a reason to throw the whole idea out.

You are incorrect. They keep records of parts changes either based on VIN (engine number for engines), or build date. That simple fact can't be proven wrong...

Sorry if I come off a bit ticked... the reason I'm so passionate about this is I play with ETKA all day long. It's a toy for me. This is my area of expertise, so to speak. It really infuriates me when people say or imply that VW just tossed on parts that they felt like using because they happened to be lying around. NO manufacturer does that. They would be stupid to. What if there's a recall on a specific part, or a failure they need to track down? How in the hell would they know which cars are affected? These things, while not absolutely perfect, are kept track of. Sometimes it takes a little (or a lot) of digging to find out what exactly happened along the way, but 85% of the time it's there.


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## dorkage (Jul 7, 2009)

VDub2625 said:


> Oh my, they missed one thing on one uncommon engine in one half of a model year on your buddy's car (that was never messed with by any other mechanic, ever), and of course the parts guy at the dealership your buddy went to was 110% good at his job. Oh, and the bolts were never ever superseded because, well, maybe the older style worked just fine after all and bolted right into place. That means my entire statement is completely wrong. THE HORROR!
> 
> People are SO quick to prove people wrong. How is it up on that horse of yours?
> 
> ...


You said they ALWAYS have a record. When we ordered the bolts for the pulley we received the super long ones, opposed to the short ones that came off of the car, despite using the VIN from the car. The parts guy looked them up in ETKA with a print out showing his VIN, ordered the bolts it showed for the pulley and they ended up being the long ones. This is not the first time I've run into this issue. I've had 5 MK4s and most of my friends have a MK4 and every now and then we run into a undocumented change that I have to dig around for online. Like the rear caliper piston sizes being different on some and no one seeming to know the difference.

And I wouldn't call the ALH uncommon. Over half the MK4s I see are TDIs.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=151025







vs


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

dorkage said:


> You said they ALWAYS have a record. When we ordered the bolts for the pulley we received the super long ones, opposed to the short ones that came off of the car, despite using the VIN from the car. The parts guy looked them up in ETKA with a print out showing his VIN, ordered the bolts it showed for the pulley and they ended up being the long ones. This is not the first time I've run into this issue. I've had 5 MK4s and most of my friends have a MK4 and every now and then we run into a undocumented change that I have to dig around for online. Like the rear caliper piston sizes being different on some and no one seeming to know the difference.
> 
> And I wouldn't call the ALH uncommon. Over half the MK4s I see are TDIs.
> 
> http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=151025


You got me. I used the wrong word. I give up, you win. Even though you ignored the entire rest of my post explaining the situation, you are still right. Happy?

Again, with the anecdotal evidence. You hang around *TDI*club. I wouldn't expect you to see a lot of 1.8Ts. Is this what passes for experience nowadays?


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## dorkage (Jul 7, 2009)

You used to be nice... Used to be.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

dorkage said:


> You used to be nice... Used to be.


People trying to prove me wrong for no other reason than to feed their ego ruined me.


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## dorkage (Jul 7, 2009)

VDub2625 said:


> People trying to prove me wrong for no other reason than to feed their ego ruined me.


First you said this, and I've had many experiences that differed from this...



> Oh and for a lot of major changes, vw records the vin numbers of the last/first cars before/after the change, as well. Some minor changes (such as in tje deign of a part) happen in the middle of a run, in which case there's always a record of the vin before/after.


So I tell you one of the more troublesome times, because even online no one seems to know the part number, then you attack me without knowing the situation. 




> Sorry if I come off a bit ticked... the reason I'm so passionate about this is I play with ETKA all day long. It's a toy for me. This is my area of expertise, so to speak. It really infuriates me when people say or imply that VW just tossed on parts that they felt like using because they happened to be lying around. NO manufacturer does that. They would be stupid to. What if there's a recall on a specific part, or a failure they need to track down? How in the hell would they know which cars are affected? These things, while not absolutely perfect, are kept track of. Sometimes it takes a little (or a lot) of digging to find out what exactly happened along the way, but 85% of the time it's there.


And now you go on saying only 85% of the time the changes be noted only 85% of the time, and that's the sort of thing that gives me issues. If it was 100% correct I wouldn't have to dig online for a obscure part number, I wouldn't have to wonder why a OEM part off my VR6 only comes up as a part for a ALH TDI and not a AFP VR6 when I ordered a new one... I understand they are relatively good at it, but it's put it in some crappy situations in the last 5 years.

I have (had) nothing against you, but you attacked me because I said I haven't had this "vw records the vin numbers of the last/first cars before/after the change" you spoke of.
I thought us Mo's stuck together... I guess not.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I already told you, you won, so why are you still fighting? 

If you had said, "sometimes, it can be inaccurate", I would have 100% agreed with you. I tend to exaggerate (who doesn't, this is a rather informal place), so the word "always" was technically incorrect. Big whoop. I didn't realize we'd be graded. But no, you chose to say I was "incorrect" (with no qualifiers, I have to assume for some reason you say I'm completely wrong) and then go on about some stupid anecdotal story that somehow "proves" it. What am I supposed to think? Sounds like an attack to me. And I even explained why I get hot-headed about this issue... which you also ignore. 

Well, you didn't ignore it. You picked up on another little 'fact' I put in there just for you. I said "85%" just to piss you off, because I knew you'd pick up on that  I honestly have no idea how often it is wrong, but in my experience, it's usually odd, or obscure parts, and I always thoroughly check any part number I find (comparing it to similar models and build locations, finding out the span of years...). My problem is I assume that everyone has this common-sense approach, and I often find that they don't. 

I've had tons of experiences where ETKA is wrong, as well (if we're also competing on how long, I've been messing with ETKA for 10 years now). I still trust it as the best first-source reference, with the caveat that nothing's perfect. 

Are you ready to let it go or are you going to try to guilt me some more about how we're automatically "brothers" because we're gay, like it has anything at all to do with it?

All I was trying to say, without going into extreme detail, was that VW keeps track of parts that go on cars, like every manufacturer, and all i was trying to do was answer the guy's question as succinctly as I could. I feel like I did that. Sorry I went off the deep end a little. but people who reply "incorrect" or "wrong" with nothing else are a big pet peeve of mine, especially this topic since it's such a big deal for me.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Get a room, girls. You're past point of being useful OR entertaining.


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## VWestlife (Sep 29, 2004)

Has Jaguar USA finally given up on trying to get us lazy Americans to pronounce their name "jag-you-are"? I just saw a Jaguar commercial on TV, and I was surprised to hear them pronounce it "jag-war".

I don't care either way, just as long as they don't use the Southern pronunciation, "jag-wire"! :banghead:


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## ph03n1x (Feb 22, 2011)

Why does the Camaro SS use an LS3 when mated to a manual and an L99 when mated to an automatic?


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## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

ph03n1x said:


> Why does the Camaro SS use an LS3 when mated to a manual and an L99 when mated to an automatic?


I don't actually know, but they've probably got different camshafts, maybe different throttle bodies, usually things like that. Definitely different flywheels/crankshafts but that doesn't usually change engine designation.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Can someone tell me about ignition coils (old fashioned, distributor, single coil style). What sort of specification is a coil built to? Can any be interchanged with any pther (of course with some wiring tweaks)? Can another stock coil be used as an "upgrade"? What specs are aftermarket coils built to?


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## DubNMiatafan (Feb 13, 2009)

I remembered this after viewing the Eagle Speedster thread with its ITB's...

How much damage are you actually causing to your engine running open ITB's like that? I can't imagine that all the detritus in the air is good for your engine. Plus ITB's seem to suck it a lot more air, and a lot more directly than just your normal intake manifold with long tube and filter setup.


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

VDub2625 said:


> Can someone tell me about ignition coils (old fashioned, distributor, single coil style). What sort of specification is a coil built to? Can any be interchanged with any pther (of course with some wiring tweaks)? Can another stock coil be used as an "upgrade"? What specs are aftermarket coils built to?


It depends on the coil and the ignition system. The main differences in coils were with dwell and with resistance within the coil, with the ladder being more important to the life of the ignition and the former being more important to the life of the coil. Modern coils usually run somewhere in the 0.1-1ohm range while older coils usually ran ~8-10 ohms of resistance in the coil. Dwell is how long the coil is energized before discharging. Too long and the coil overheats, too short and you get inadquate coil charge and poor discharge, you can also run the coil hot that way as well. In other older cars you also have to make sure they're 12v coils not 6v and if the car is wired as + or - ground. What do you mean "specification" in this instance? Multiple coils (I'm assuming your referring to the older soda-can looking coils with a single output) can be interchanged. Often you'll have no wiring changes, and if you do it will be with the resistor, if the ignition runs a coil resister. As far as stock coils seeming like upgrades, bosch used to (and still does iirc) make a 'blue coil' which is named as it's a deep blue color which was/is a very popular coil in some circles. Otherwise there are a multitude of other coil mfg's which make upgrade coils: Mallory, Accel, MSD, etc. 



DubNMiatafan said:


> I remembered this after viewing the Eagle Speedster thread with its ITB's...
> 
> How much damage are you actually causing to your engine running open ITB's like that? I can't imagine that all the detritus in the air is good for your engine. Plus ITB's seem to suck it a lot more air, and a lot more directly than just your normal intake manifold with long tube and filter setup.


How would you imagine an engine which makes the exact same power with a single tb than with ITB's and no plenum moves more air with the ITB's? They really don't. It is a shorter more direct path though you are correct in that regard. In short, you get significantly more wear on your engine parts especially valves, guides, rings, and cylinder walls as it gets to chew through all that new found debris. So there is more wear in the engine. How much is dependent on a lot of environmental factors. If you look back in that thread, the venturi's only appeard to be only for show as they also depicted a carbon fiber plenum going to the ITB's from the filter. However, it is technically the least obstructive path from the atmosphere to the cylinder for air to travel through. Many racers used to just run metal screens over the intake so that the large, catastrophic crap stayed out but a few older pieces of work by David Visard and a few others actually showed these screens to be less effective than their filter counterparts in performance terms, and definitely in particle filtration.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

MAG58 said:


> It depends on the coil and the ignition system. The main differences in coils were with dwell and with resistance within the coil, with the ladder being more important to the life of the ignition and the former being more important to the life of the coil. Modern coils usually run somewhere in the 0.1-1ohm range while older coils usually ran ~8-10 ohms of resistance in the coil. Dwell is how long the coil is energized before discharging. Too long and the coil overheats, too short and you get inadquate coil charge and poor discharge, you can also run the coil hot that way as well. In other older cars you also have to make sure they're 12v coils not 6v and if the car is wired as + or - ground. What do you mean "specification" in this instance? Multiple coils (I'm assuming your referring to the older soda-can looking coils with a single output) can be interchanged. Often you'll have no wiring changes, and if you do it will be with the resistor, if the ignition runs a coil resister. As far as stock coils seeming like upgrades, bosch used to (and still does iirc) make a 'blue coil' which is named as it's a deep blue color which was/is a very popular coil in some circles. Otherwise there are a multitude of other coil mfg's which make upgrade coils: Mallory, Accel, MSD, etc.


Thanks! That helps quite a bit. my specific situation is with VWs (of course), I'm not sure if you're familiar, but older coils (can style) ran with a separate transistor (power stage, whatever it's called, I know it's a transistor ). But, in the early 90s, they started switching to a coil pack-like setup, where the transistor is mounted on the coil itself.

My 1990 Jetta GLIs' coil looks like this (excuse the size, the only one I could find):









Obviously, big and ugly. I started looking around different models for "upgrades", if that was possible (beefier, cleaner looking, maybe help create a better spark).

An ABA/California Digifant coil looks like this:









A VR6 (with distributor) coil looks like this:










I understand the wiring easily (power, ground, "fire" signal from ECU, and, on my Jetta, tach signal from pin 1). Would they all operate exactly the same, for all intents and purposes? Could one possibly give a better spark (I would think the VR one, since it's beefier, with a bigger heatsink)? I installed the VR one in my Jetta, and I just got finished installing another VR one into my Cabrio (since it's OEM coil went bad). Am I helping/hurting/giving myself a placebo pill?


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

The easiest thing to do would be to measure the resistance across the poles in that coil and then find a coil which matches that resistance. The rest should be close-enough to be fine.


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## mbp487 (May 14, 2012)

What's the little golf tee looking thing below the gas cap? Never noticed it before.


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## Lark (Mar 18, 2013)

Can my transmission be broken without it seeming broken? When a shop told me my transmission was broken and needed replaced, they said specifically my shift linkage _wasn't _broken, I suspected it was and asked specifically for it to be checked. (I obviously had no idea where to find the shift linkage, so I was gullible.) I got a second opinion, the second shop fixed my shift linkage and i've driven another 5k without any change. the first shop maintains my transmission "is broken and needs replaced" and that I "band-aided" it by fixing shift linkage. my transmission is at 248k miles, and I took it to the dealer who drove it and "inspected" it and gave it the thumbs up. Shop #1 just shysters, or can my transmission be broken and still drivable without me realizing? 98 New Beetle 2.0 with manual transmission.


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

led headlights and taillights, when one of the LEDs goes out, the entire unit needs to be replaced?


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

Lark said:


> Can my transmission be broken without it seeming broken? When a shop told me my transmission was broken and needed replaced, they said specifically my shift linkage _wasn't _broken, I suspected it was and asked specifically for it to be checked. (I obviously had no idea where to find the shift linkage, so I was gullible.) I got a second opinion, the second shop fixed my shift linkage and i've driven another 5k without any change. the first shop maintains my transmission "is broken and needs replaced" and that I "band-aided" it by fixing shift linkage. my transmission is at 248k miles, and I took it to the dealer who drove it and "inspected" it and gave it the thumbs up. Shop #1 just shysters, or can my transmission be broken and still drivable without me realizing? 98 New Beetle 2.0 with manual transmission.


Does it still go through 1-5 + R without grinding? Does it make any gnarly sounds when you're driving? 

If you answered yes to the first and no to the second, your trans is fine. 



71DubBugBug said:


> led headlights and taillights, when one of the LEDs goes out, the entire unit needs to be replaced?


IIRC most cars are SMC at this point so technically I guess you could order a new surface mount LED and replace it, but they will most likely only sell you the whole unit.


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## 20aeman (Jun 8, 2006)

Lark said:


> Can my transmission be broken without it seeming broken? When a shop told me my transmission was broken and needed replaced, they said specifically my shift linkage _wasn't _broken, I suspected it was and asked specifically for it to be checked. (I obviously had no idea where to find the shift linkage, so I was gullible.) I got a second opinion, the second shop fixed my shift linkage and i've driven another 5k without any change. the first shop maintains my transmission "is broken and needs replaced" and that I "band-aided" it by fixing shift linkage. my transmission is at 248k miles, and I took it to the dealer who drove it and "inspected" it and gave it the thumbs up. Shop #1 just shysters, or can my transmission be broken and still drivable without me realizing? 98 New Beetle 2.0 with manual transmission.


If it functions, then by definition, it's not broken.


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## robr2 (May 5, 2005)

mbp487 said:


> What's the little golf tee looking thing below the gas cap? Never noticed it before.


It's probably what holds your fuel door closed.


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## Lark (Mar 18, 2013)

20aeman said:


> If it functions, then by definition, it's not broken.


Yes yes no. Thanks for putting some anxiety to rest. Obviously logic would state broken means broken, but it bothers me that jerkoff shop 1 maintain the broken statement. 

Thanks 


I'm a trained professional.


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## jonpwn (Aug 13, 2010)

So I was changing the injectors on my 1.8t, there was some dirt along the injector cup that _might_ have fallen into the hole when i took the injectors out. 

Am I at a huge risk of my cylinder walls being scratched up when I start my car or will it just get pushed out to the exhaust/trapped in the oil?


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## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

jonpwn said:


> So I was changing the injectors on my 1.8t, there was some dirt along the injector cup that _might_ have fallen into the hole when i took the injectors out.
> 
> Am I at a huge risk of my cylinder walls being scratched up when I start my car or will it just get pushed out to the exhaust/trapped in the oil?


How much dirt? A dusting? I wouldn't worry about it. Actually, unless it was a pebble I wouldn't worry about it. 

But this is why you clean before you disassemble.


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## ttvick (Aug 15, 2007)

I feel like this is going to be the dumbest sounding question in this thread... :facepalm:

I bought a B6 A4 Avant today and was showing the car off to family when my MIL asked what the top lights in the taillights are for. They aren't turn signal, brake, or normal headlights-on taillights, that I could figure out... so what are they? 

Not my car or my picture, but the lights are the same. The top (red) ones in the taillights are the ones in question.


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## 2112 (Jun 21, 2004)

ttvick said:


> I feel like this is going to be the dumbest sounding question in this thread... :facepalm:
> 
> I bought a B6 A4 Avant today and was showing the car off to family when my MIL asked what the top lights in the taillights are for. They aren't turn signal, brake, or normal headlights-on taillights, that I could figure out... so what are they?


My guess would be rear fog lights.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

It could also be that the layout is adapted for the USA. For example, on the Mk3 Golf, the USA brake lights are the rear fog light in Europe. Same with the Mk2 Jetta. The tail lights on USA models requires a side light and usually, the tail light is moved to the edge so it can be seen from the side too. Often, the tail light in Europe is in the center of the light (because side lights are not required). 

Fpund this:









So yes, it's a rear fog light. Don't they have those on US Audis, or is that something they started doing after the B6?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Why does the BMW 5 series I just drove have two trunk buttons? One on the lower dash, and one near the OBD port in the footwell.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Just in case?

:laugh:


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## palakaman (Oct 8, 2006)

My brother has an '05 Acura TL with HID headlights. One of them went out. As I am un familiar with HID systems he consulted his owners manual. It informed him that he should take it to an authorized dealer to have it changed because of the danger of the residual charge present with HID systems. We looked up a DIY on how to change it ourselves but did not mention any dangers or precautions of doing it ourselves. Is there any reason to treat this differently than ordinary headlight systems or should he take it in to have it professionally changed?


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## RobMarkToo (Apr 21, 2012)

robr2 said:


> It's probably what holds your fuel door closed.


My old Jetta mk2 has one of those... latches when the doors are locked. Yesterday I got gas (full service only gotta love it), and the guy was motioning to me through the window that my fuel filler door wouldn't open... and im like, ****...if that is suddenly stuck locked i have no idea what im gonna do... (theres probably a manual release in the trunk come to think of it). I went outside to help, and just as I got over, he figured out that he was trying to open it from the wrong direction?? Genius. Then he didn't give me my receipt either and i was left wondering whether it was ok for me to leave or what....


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## Lark (Mar 18, 2013)

There was an aftermarket HID kit installed in the new beetle that I bought last year. I had never seen them before, but the connections between the light and power ballast were loose and one or the other would often flicker or go out. I frequently messed with all of the connections, the power supply, the wiring etc with my car turned off. I never pulled the battery because well, I had never really worked on headlights before and it didn't occur to me. When a bulb went out I took it to the dealer and they couldn't identifiy the bulb or part number. I would look around and follow your headlight lines to see if you can identify the connections and power ballasts and just turn the car off and pull the battery if you're concerned about any charge. I was never zapped by mine. A tuning shop I visited gave me the advice that the bulbs rarely just blow up, and it is usually a power supply issue, a fuse blown, or a fray in the wiring. They also told me that oil from your hands or skin, if you touch the bulb, can then make it go out if you replace it before cleaning it. Hope the information helps. They cleaned my bulb, and we zip tied the connections together and it fixed my issue. Eventually I just upgraded to new headlights and casings and gave up on the janky HID conversion.


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## Aonarch (Dec 4, 2006)

Lark said:


> There was an aftermarket HID kit installed in the new beetle that I bought last year. I had never seen them before, but the connections between the light and power ballast were loose and one or the other would often flicker or go out. I frequently messed with all of the connections, the power supply, the wiring etc with my car turned off. I never pulled the battery because well, I had never really worked on headlights before and it didn't occur to me. When a bulb went out I took it to the dealer and they couldn't identifiy the bulb or part number. I would look around and follow your headlight lines to see if you can identify the connections and power ballasts and just turn the car off and pull the battery if you're concerned about any charge. I was never zapped by mine. A tuning shop I visited gave me the advice that the bulbs rarely just blow up, and it is usually a power supply issue, a fuse blown, or a fray in the wiring. They also told me that oil from your hands or skin, if you touch the bulb, can then make it go out if you replace it before cleaning it. Hope the information helps. They cleaned my bulb, and we zip tied the connections together and it fixed my issue. Eventually I just upgraded to new headlights and casings and gave up on the janky HID conversion.


Hand oil destroys bulbs. You should always wear nitrile gloves when installing. 

Also used car with an aftermarket HID kit = avoid.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

RobMarkToo said:


> (theres probably a manual release in the trunk come to think of it)


There is, look into the cutouts of the right side trunk carpet (the horizontal line, vent-looking things), and you'll see a brass wire/rod-looking thing. Just pull it.


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

VDub2625 said:


> Why does the BMW 5 series I just drove have two trunk buttons? One on the lower dash, and one near the OBD port in the footwell.


 E60 LCI (facelift), I'm guessing? 
If the car had PDC, that's where the PDC button would be (at the bottom of the center stack.) No PDC? Well, I guess that they decided that a second interior trunk button made more sense than a blanking plate.....


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

cuppie said:


> E60 LCI (facelift), I'm guessing?
> If the car had PDC, that's where the PDC button would be (at the bottom of the center stack.) No PDC? Well, I guess that they decided that a second interior trunk button made more sense than a blanking plate.....


Well doesn't that just make sense. Lol.

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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

What exactly is "clutch chatter"?

I have a noise that sounds like pinging or banging from the transmission (02a), when I idle out of gear and off the clutch. If I put the clutch in, it stops. It almost sounds like a loose input shaft, but the car drives perfectly fine.

I have been told that VR6 clutches do this, and that the noise is clutch chatter, but I always assumed that to be a slipping or not quite grippy clutch. I suppose that's wrong?

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## Tiny Voices (Apr 25, 2011)

When a throw out bearing makes noise when it is cold on start up but goes away after a few shifts, does if need to be replaced? 

My g35 does this and half the community says it needs to be replaced ASAP and the other half says not to even think about doing anything until the car is physically very difficult to put in gear when cold and the bearing is making noise. 

When my car makes the noise it in no way affects drivability. 


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## DubNMiatafan (Feb 13, 2009)

VDub2625 said:


> What exactly is "clutch chatter"?
> 
> I have a noise that sounds like pinging or banging from the transmission (02a), when I idle out of gear and off the clutch. If I put the clutch in, it stops. It almost sounds like a loose input shaft, but the car drives perfectly fine.
> 
> ...


My Miata (and I'm sure almost every manual transmission car) does this if it's super quiet and I listen for it with the door open. I've heard that it's the throwout bearing. Not really a concern since my Corolla has done it since I bought it (2007 with 131k on it) and now it's got 213k on it and I don't have any issues with the trans/clutch.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I installed a new throw out bearing when I did my clutch/installed the transmission 10k ago. It's been doing that pretty noticeably as long as I've had it in. 

The only way I can think of that noise being clutch chatter would be if it (the clutch spline/input shaft as a unit) "bouncing" on the clutch springs, against the clutch disc/flywheel/crankshaft? Does that sound stupid?

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## ph03n1x (Feb 22, 2011)

I was always taught that "clutch chatter" was because of a lightweight, single-mass flywheel not being able to soak up vibrations as well as a dual-mass flywheel. That combined with a clutch that lacks springs on the hub that also won't absorb vibrations will make for one noisy ride. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.


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## Shtbox (Nov 27, 2010)

my 02a always had that noise as well. it was not in the best of shape, going into second was becoming more difficult than it should have been and would grind in higher rpms. it was a bitch shifting when it got very cold as well. the clutch master was replaced/bled properly, as well as TO bearing, LW flywheel, and clutch kit before it went in the car though. i think its just clutch chatter.


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## RobMarkToo (Apr 21, 2012)

<a href="http://imgur.com/WLQBHet"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/WLQBHet.jpg" title="Hosted by imgur.com" /></a>

The plastic rectangle things in front of the shifter on a mk2. Do they serve any functional purpose? This has really been bugging me for awhile actually. They look stylistic, but at the same time as if they are supposed to have some hidden function.


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## the brit (Jun 23, 2003)

RobMarkToo said:


> <a href="http://imgur.com/WLQBHet"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/WLQBHet.jpg" title="Hosted by imgur.com" /></a>
> 
> The plastic rectangle things in front of the shifter on a mk2. Do they serve any functional purpose? This has really been bugging me for awhile actually. They look stylistic, but at the same time as if they are supposed to have some hidden function.


Coin holder.


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## RobMarkToo (Apr 21, 2012)

the brit said:


> Coin holder.


Nah... pretty sure you are joking. Right? Couldn't be.. Could it? Maybe quarters. Will have to try


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Supposedly they are. Same thing with mk3 auto here:









Although they barely hold anything. They are different sizes too. I always thought they were designed for Deutsche marks. Lol

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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

the brit said:


> Coin holder.




This.

Keeps em separate and upright so you can grab em easily without having to take your eyes off the road.


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## Lark (Mar 18, 2013)

Aonarch said:


> Hand oil destroys bulbs. You should always wear nitrile gloves when installing.
> 
> Also used car with an aftermarket HID kit = avoid.


yeah aonarch, i know that now 

also, Hans is perfectly fine, i'm glad i didn't avoid buying that car...
otherwise we wouldn't be friends. duh.


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## RobMarkToo (Apr 21, 2012)

RobMarkToo said:


> Nah... pretty sure you are joking. Right? Couldn't be.. Could it? Maybe quarters. Will have to try


Well, they actually work with quarters and dimes! Amazing! I feel dumb lol. The slots closest to the center seem to be for something bigger than a quarter (half dollar maybe?), and none of the them will fit a nickel, but hey I can still store two quarters and two dimes there! Less **** rolling around and clicking together while driving the happier I am.


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## Turbo Benzina! (Feb 7, 2010)

I was reading the thread about the Q5 TDI started by Shomegrown the other day. There was some discussion going on how you launch a car with an automatic transmission and what is considered abuse while doing so.

What I'm wondering is whether it is abuse to hold the brake while flooring it from a standstill?

I have a bunch of experience with convential automatics with torque converters as the old man refuses to drive a stick. Personally I've never even thought about holding the brake while flooring it until I read the thread Q5 thread. I'm not too familiar with how torque converters work but I can't help but to feel it can't be too healthy doing it. 

I had to give it a try last night it pop's TDI quattro automatic and sure, it makes the car quite a bit quicker off the line but how bad is it for the drivetrain?

Enlighten me! :thumbup:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Tdi Quattro? Would that have a conventional auto or dsg? 

Dsg has launch control in some models (I doubt it in a tdi but just saying).

I thought newer Volkswagens (and cars in general) ignore the throttle when the brake is pressed. Did it rev to like 2000 while sitting? That's how it's worked in most conventional automatics I've done that in.


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## nightflyer (Feb 13, 2006)

Why do some cars have a floor mounted accelerator and others have a top mounted? Is there a design advantage to either?


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## Turbo Benzina! (Feb 7, 2010)

VDub2625 said:


> Tdi Quattro? Would that have a conventional auto or dsg?
> 
> Dsg has launch control in some models (I doubt it in a tdi but just saying).
> 
> I thought newer Volkswagens (and cars in general) ignore the throttle when the brake is pressed. Did it rev to like 2000 while sitting? That's how it's worked in most conventional automatics I've done that in.


Unfortunately, neither a DSG nor any launch control to speak of.

It's an Audi A8 4.2TDI with a conventional 6 speed automatic with a torque converter.
I simply put the lever in 'S-mode', held my foot on the brake, put my right foot down and felt a slight jerk as the engine tried to move the car forward. Stood on the throttle for less than half a second before I let of the left pedal. Absolutely no wheel spin to speak of, just took off.

Now that you ask.. I'm not completely sure but I think it was around 2000rpm (Redline at ~4500). The way it limited the revs was similiar to using the launch control on a DSG. It simply revved up and stayed at 2000rpm or whatever it was, the needle didn't move a millimeter before I let off the brake.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

The reason it stops is because the torque converter can't slip any more with that much power fighting against a not-moving drive line. I'm rusty about how they work but there's a certain amount of fluid that is allowed to slip past the blades, I think. Short answer, don't do it a lot. Lol

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## silvermouse5150 (Nov 22, 2003)

I live in the south, so please forgive me for the cold weather question.

I bought a snow shade for my car so the windshield doesn't have frost on it in the mornings.
Should I use the shield when the temps are below freezing (it thinks its going to be 20 for the low) and its raining? Rain supposed to stop around 4am, below freezing temps for the rest of the day.

This is the snow shield i have:
http://www.autoanything.com/driving-accessories/60A4281A0A0.aspx

-thanks!


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I have never heard of such a thing. I just scrape, lol.

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## silvermouse5150 (Nov 22, 2003)

VDub2625 said:


> I have never heard of such a thing. I just scrape, lol.
> 
> Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk


It's just like those sun protectors/shield but for the outside.
Takes 10sec to put on and 10sec to take off - and no frost or ice to scrape off!
Sounds lame I know, but at 6am in the cold, its such a convenience 10secs and i'm off, no more scraping.


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## DerSpiegel (Jun 20, 2008)

nightflyer said:


> Why do some cars have a floor mounted accelerator and others have a top mounted? *Is there a design advantage to either?*


Not really, at least in a general sense. Manufacturers basically do one or the other due to a combination of factors like overall pedal cluster design, footwell shape, the most desired way to route pedal cables and linkages through the firewall, etc.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Why would these be double-drilled with what appears the same pattern twice?

This seems common on Audi and VW 12"+ brakes. Not sure why. 








http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Jetta/Brake/72/15


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Less rotating mass? :laugh:


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## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

silvermouse5150 said:


> I live in the south, so please forgive me for the cold weather question.
> 
> I bought a snow shade for my car so the windshield doesn't have frost on it in the mornings.
> Should I use the shield when the temps are below freezing (it thinks its going to be 20 for the low) and its raining? Rain supposed to stop around 4am, below freezing temps for the rest of the day.
> ...


Yeah, use it. I use a small blanket over my window all winter, and even in the rain it helps. Rain can freeze, too.


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## mookieblaylock (Sep 25, 2005)

I currently drive a mkv gti that i love but the roads here are really rough and i don't like feeling everything. So my question is when i upgrade next year to an R will adding koni fsv shocks dampen the ride? Or should i just forget it and drive my beater tacoma if it bugs me. 17s in place of 18s also a possibility


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## RollingInDubs (Jan 23, 2003)

Can someone explain to me what a high idle switch is used for on heavy duty pickups? I get that it's for High Idle to allow the engine to warm up, but doesn't the computer already handle that? I know when I start my truck in the morning, if it's cold it kicks the RPM's up for a while until it warms up. At that point, the revs come down on their own.

Just curious why there is a manual override for something the computer is already doing.


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

RollingInDubs said:


> Can someone explain to me what a high idle switch is used for on heavy duty pickups? I get that it's for High Idle to allow the engine to warm up, but doesn't the computer already handle that? I know when I start my truck in the morning, if it's cold it kicks the RPM's up for a while until it warms up. At that point, the revs come down on their own.
> 
> Just curious why there is a manual override for something the computer is already doing.


As you already said, modern diesels already can compensate for wet stacking and cold weather. But modern diesels can have a high idle switch to drive accessories at increased speed for operation while stationary for extended periods.


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

MrMook said:


> Less rotating mass? :laugh:


Probably so it can be used on both sides. Why they punch another set of wheel bolt holes instead of another attachment screw hole is beyond me.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

High idle is for pto, like tow trucks that use engine power for accessories.

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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

MAG58 said:


> Probably so it can be used on both sides. Why they punch another set of wheel bolt holes instead of another attachment screw hole is beyond me.


Side doesn't matter even with only one set... the screw hole is in the same place either direction. Very confusing. 

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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

VDub2625 said:


> High idle is for pto, like tow trucks that use engine power for accessories.


Plus more cooling (higher underhood fan speeds, more water pump GPH), more amps from the alternator (for things like ambulances, and TV news vans), better A/C performance, etc. during extended idling.

I notice the shuttle vans at the airport kick up the idle when the driver shifts to park (presumably to spin the A/C compressor faster). I've driven 15-passenger E-350s with dual A/C that have middling A/C performance in the 100°F summer after sitting in the sun all day. If you start driving or increase the revs to ~1500 when stopped it will cool down quickly.


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

VDub2625 said:


> Side doesn't matter even with only one set... the screw hole is in the same place either direction. Very confusing.
> 
> Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk


That would only be true if the hole was centered between the wheels, it isn't. You're correct though if the hubs aren't side specific


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

MAG58 said:


> That would only be true if the hole was centered between the wheels, it isn't. You're correct though if the hubs aren't side specific


What do you mean? There are 9 lug holes on the brake disc pictured, and the 10th is replaced by the hole for the set screw. That means the other 4 holes that line up with the set screw hole can never be used for lugs (you can't put the 5th hole in the set screw hole), and you can only use the other 5 for lug bols. The set screw is always halfeay between a pair of lug holes, so that disc would work on both sides. VW doesn't have side specific hubs, I don't know if others do.


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## mbp487 (May 14, 2012)

What is the difference between a engine/transmission/dogbone mount in terms of how they affect performance characteristics? I get that they reduce vibration to each of their respective parts but what does that accomplish? 

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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

That's just different names for engine mounts... you'll need to be specific about which car.

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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

mbp487 said:


> What is the difference between a engine/transmission/dogbone mount in terms of how they affect performance characteristics? I get that they reduce vibration to each of their respective parts but what does that accomplish?
> 
> Sent from my RM-877_nam_att_205 using Tapatalk


Less vibration and drive train sway/slop means better response in putting power to the ground, in exchange for more NVH.

In other words, stiffer mounts means more nvh, softer means better damping for a more tolerable ride.


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## 20aeman (Jun 8, 2006)

mbp487 said:


> What is the difference between a engine/transmission/dogbone mount in terms of how they affect performance characteristics? I get that they reduce vibration to each of their respective parts but what does that accomplish?
> 
> Sent from my RM-877_nam_att_205 using Tapatalk


The dogbone prevents major engine movement, so getting a better one of those is always recommended. The other two mounts though have a much less substantial impact on engine movement (they just hold the engine "up"), and replacing them will increase the NVH substantially.


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## RAVatar (Sep 28, 2005)

Here's one that's probably already been answered:

How does a shaved engine bay...operate? I understand that a battery can be relocated and things like A/C and such deleted (but to hell with that, I wouldn't do that down here in the south) but things like coolant reservoirs, brake master cylinders, radiator lines...where does it all go? And how does the car operate/not overheat without any of it?


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## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

SAV912 said:


> Here's one that's probably already been answered:
> 
> How does a shaved engine bay...operate? I understand that a battery can be relocated and things like A/C and such deleted (but to hell with that, I wouldn't do that down here in the south) but things like coolant reservoirs, brake master cylinders, radiator lines...where does it all go? And how does the car operate/not overheat without any of it?


It's all there, it just can be hidden. Usually though a shaved bay means the holes are all filled in and painted, it doesn't necessarily mean all the important bits have been removed.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

VDub2625 said:


> That's just different names for engine mounts... you'll need to be specific about which car.
> 
> Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk


I want to expand on this since I'm not on a phone anymore...

I assume you asked about a mk4. The Mk4 mount system was different from earlier VWs (not sure if this was a common industry thing or what), but they call it a "pendulum" system. There are two main engine mounts, one on each end of the drivetrain (timing belt and transmission end, that mount to each frame rail of the chassis). They are lined up so that the drivetrain system "swings" between them (in line with the car's chassis, like a pendulum swinging front-rear). The dogbone holds the bottom of the pendulum (at the oil pan) from swinging forward when taking off from a stop (since an engine wants to "rotate" clounter-clockwise to the direction of force on the wheels), and, in the rare instance that you're reversing, or engine braking, it holds the engine from swinging the other way too. The two big engine mounts are rubber I think, to reduce NVH into the chassis. Tightening up that dogbone won't increase NVH, but it will keep that rocking, soft feeling from happening on accel and decel. 

For comparison, most older watercooled VWs use a tri-mount system, where there is one front mount, and two rear mounts, one on the engine rear and the other on the transmission rear. All these mounts are attached to subframes (one front one rear), in an attempt to isolate the NVH by not bolting the engine directly to the chassis. These benefit in feel from rubber mounts instead of the default soft hydro on most of them, but this increases NVH considerably in comparison to a new dogbone.

Even older VWs (Mk1 chassis and associates) use the most rudimentary system, 4 mounts (center front and rear, and at either end of the engine and trans, kind of like a Mk4), all directly bolted to rigid chassis points. All rubber style mounts too, so the most NVH. 

hopefully you understand a little more about how engine mount systems can differ (at least in a VW), and learned something 



SAV912 said:


> Here's one that's probably already been answered:
> 
> How does a shaved engine bay...operate? I understand that a battery can be relocated and things like A/C and such deleted (but to hell with that, I wouldn't do that down here in the south) but things like coolant reservoirs, brake master cylinders, radiator lines...where does it all go? And how does the car operate/not overheat without any of it?


Coolant reservoirs are deleted if you switch to a resivorless system. You can install an in-line cap in a hose, near the top of the system and hope it doesn't blow (usually trailer queen). The hoses are easy to re-route if you just make them extra long. 

For the brake reserviors and master cylinders, you can re-locate it under the dash, using aftermarket (or stock, if you can work it correctly), and from what I understand, it's a HUGE bitch.


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## mbp487 (May 14, 2012)

Thanks for the detailed reply vdub, that definitely cleared some things up! I had no idea the engine swayed front to back like that but looking at the VF's dog bone mount that makes perfect sense now. 

Sent from my RM-877_nam_att_205 using Tapatalk


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## Giovanni (May 13, 2000)

Is the Acura TL still sold as a Honda Accord in Europe? If not when did it stop and what is the Euro accord?

How hard is it to find a VW CC with a manual trans?


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## 97audia4 (Jul 6, 2006)

looking for a new daily cheap just for rain days and some light snow, I ride my my motorcycle the rest of the time to work. I found a 1996 corolla for sale it has 135k on it and the guy is asking $1900 for it. Any things to look for with a corolla this year and mileage before i pull the trigger.


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## robr2 (May 5, 2005)

Giovanni said:


> Is the Acura TL still sold as a Honda Accord in Europe? If not when did it stop and what is the Euro accord?
> 
> How hard is it to find a VW CC with a manual trans?


AFAIK, the TL was never sold in Europe. The Euro Accord is our Acura TSX

As for the CC, check dealer inventories. My local dealer has 4 CC's in stock - 2 are manual.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Giovanni said:


> How hard is it to find a VW CC with a manual trans?


Unfortunately they're only the lowest trim levels- no nav, I think, only 2.0T, etc.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Do (or did) any cars come with a "friendly" secondary pedestrian horn? 
It would be great for letting riders and pedestrians know you're there without freaking them out, or sounding LIKE YOU'RE YELLING WITH CAPS LOCK.


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## PNW (Feb 11, 2013)

Is there really a big difference in driving a manual car that is AWD? Should I be blending differently then a non AWD car?

I was test driving a Subaru, and this was told to me. I have never driven a manual AWD differently than a non AWD. 

Just curious.


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## rynodyno312 (Aug 20, 2012)

PNW said:


> Is there really a big difference in driving a manual car that is AWD? Should I be blending differently then a non AWD car?
> 
> I was test driving a Subaru, and this was told to me. I have never driven a manual AWD differently than a non AWD.
> 
> Just curious.


Since there is power going to all four wheels, doing a clutch-drop style launch is much harder on drivetrain components since less (if any) energy is being transferred to wheelspin. I believe that was the problem with earlier WRXs and their "glass transmission"--kids who didn't know what was up were dumping the clutch to get those low 0-60 numbers and the drivetrain couldn't handle the abuse. I think In normal driving/shifting you shouldn't have to do anything differently.


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## rynodyno312 (Aug 20, 2012)

MrMook said:


> Do (or did) any cars come with a "friendly" secondary pedestrian horn?
> It would be great for letting riders and pedestrians know you're there without freaking them out, or sounding LIKE YOU'RE YELLING WITH CAPS LOCK.


ON my civic, that is the regular horn. So weak.


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## PNW (Feb 11, 2013)

rynodyno312 said:


> Since there is power going to all four wheels, doing a clutch-drop style launch is much harder on drivetrain components since less (if any) energy is being transferred to wheelspin. I believe that was the problem with earlier WRXs and their "glass transmission"--kids who didn't know what was up were dumping the clutch to get those low 0-60 numbers and the drivetrain couldn't handle the abuse. I think In normal driving/shifting you shouldn't have to do anything differently.


Awesome, thanks!


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

PNW said:


> Awesome, thanks!


not quite...

In snow it handles a bit different, especially on turns. Same with high speed cornering.


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## rynodyno312 (Aug 20, 2012)

speed51133! said:


> not quite...
> 
> In snow it handles a bit different, especially on turns. Same with high speed cornering.


How does that effect gear shifting, though? That was the question, not vehicle dynamics.


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## redshift (May 22, 2002)

MrMook said:


> Do (or did) any cars come with a "friendly" secondary pedestrian horn?
> It would be great for letting riders and pedestrians know you're there without freaking them out, or sounding LIKE YOU'RE YELLING WITH CAPS LOCK.


Reminds me of a situation I saw last week. A car coming out of a garage, crossing a busy sidewalk gave a little "beep" to let people know there was a car coming up the ramp. Two guys on the sidewalk about 30 feet away, who obviously have never been to a busy city before, suddenly threw their arms up in the air "come at me bro-style" and started screaming at the car. :laugh:


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## romanl (Apr 2, 2010)

question: How does one detail / clean/ wash engine bay?
i enjoy detailing my car (not right now as its winter so its always dirty) but other half of the year i keep it pretty clean.
well under the hood, its getting quite a bit dirty by now.
car: 2010 VW Golf TDI milage: 93,xxx 
taking plastic engine cover is just one small thing, but how would i go about washing the rest as its filthy ?
thanks


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## caliatenza (Dec 10, 2006)

is there any particular way to drive a RWD car in the rain or any other situation where there is less traction? Or are modern cars safe, with TCS and VSD and all of that?


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## PNW (Feb 11, 2013)

speed51133! said:


> not quite...
> 
> In snow it handles a bit different, especially on turns. Same with high speed cornering.


I know that. I meant just for manual reasons.


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## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

caliatenza said:


> is there any particular way to drive a RWD car in the rain or any other situation where there is less traction? Or are modern cars safe, with TCS and VSD and all of that?


i drove my porsche on ultra high performance summer tires, in 10 degrees, with snow on the ground the other day. 





obviously no traction control systems on that car. 

or this one:



which at least has good winter tires, but still no traction control, and its mid-engined. 



never lift. 

not even once.


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## caliatenza (Dec 10, 2006)

cockerpunk said:


> i drove my porsche on ultra high performance summer tires, in 10 degrees, with snow on the ground the other day.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


hmmn interesting. :thumbup:


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Consequences of chronically lugging your engine/driving in too high of a gear for the load?


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

thegave said:


> Consequences of chronically lugging your engine/driving in too high of a gear for the load?


I suspect you'll see greater heat as a result of the increased load, which has its own effects, long term.

One of which is increased and more rapid oil breakdown. Which reduces lubrication qualities, which means more friction, which means more damage, and so on and so forth. 

And that's just one aspect.


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## andyA6 (Nov 10, 2000)

MrMook said:


> Do (or did) any cars come with a "friendly" secondary pedestrian horn?
> It would be great for letting riders and pedestrians know you're there without freaking them out, or sounding LIKE YOU'RE YELLING WITH CAPS LOCK.


Old cars like from the '60s, Mercedes comes to mind, had a switch for "country" and "city" horn.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I believe in the FMVSS, one low beam light source per side is mandated. How do manufacturers with LED lamps get around this, with 4, 6, or even 8 independent light sources?

I've been wondering this question for a while, but a Ur-S4 I saw on the road today reminded me of the question, since they have two low beam projectors per side also (regular bulbs too).


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## the_master (Jan 15, 2013)

This question has probably already been answered but,

What component of an automatic transmission is engaged when a vehicle is put into park?


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

the_master said:


> This question has probably already been answered but,
> 
> What component of an automatic transmission is engaged when a vehicle is put into park?


The parking pawl.


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## Gitcha Sum (May 27, 2008)

Anybody ever wrap headers? 
I got the tape stuff, didn't realize there was stainless zip ties and high temp silicone spray. 
The stainless zip ties are a must, but do I need the high temp spray coating?


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## tankton (Jun 25, 2013)

VDub2625 said:


> I believe in the FMVSS, one low beam light source per side is mandated. How do manufacturers with LED lamps get around this, with 4, 6, or even 8 independent light sources?
> 
> I've been wondering this question for a while, but a Ur-S4 I saw on the road today reminded me of the question, since they have two low beam projectors per side also (regular bulbs too).


The law stipulates a "cluster of lights" can be counted as one (like the old Q45's gun-barrel lights). Same deal with turn signals, as long as they are lit in a certain fashion (Mustang tri-bar sequential lamps).


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## nightflyer (Feb 13, 2006)

How much impact does tire quality have on a rwd car swinging it's back end out when cornering on a wet road and goosing the throttle? Total hypothetical.


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

nightflyer said:


> How much impact does tire quality have on a rwd car swinging it's back end out when cornering on a wet road and goosing the throttle? Total hypothetical.


Short answer: Lots

Long answer: Looooooooooooooooootts. Rubber grip value, tread pattern etc.


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

deucestudios said:


> Anybody ever wrap headers?
> I got the tape stuff, didn't realize there was stainless zip ties and high temp silicone spray.
> The stainless zip ties are a must, but do I need the high temp spray coating?


depending on the exhaust wrap, some of the DEI stuff says specifically not to spray it


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## nightflyer (Feb 13, 2006)

SirSpectre said:


> Short answer: Lots
> 
> Long answer: Looooooooooooooooootts. Rubber grip value, tread pattern etc.


Well I guess I know what I'm shopping for this weekend :laugh:


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

romanl said:


> question: How does one detail / clean/ wash engine bay?
> i enjoy detailing my car (not right now as its winter so its always dirty) but other half of the year i keep it pretty clean.
> well under the hood, its getting quite a bit dirty by now.
> car: 2010 VW Golf TDI milage: 93,xxx
> ...


I just use some simple green in a spray bottle, a soft wheel brush, and a hose attachment like this that gives you a high volume of water at low pressure (designed for watering plants). Cover up the brake fluid reservoir or any other things you don't want to get wet (top of oil dipstick) with plastic or aluminum foil, take off any plastic shrouds or covers, and gently spray it down with the garden wand. Spray everything with simple green or another mild cleaner of your choice, using the brush on the stubborn areas. After hosing everything down a second time to rinse all the cleaner and gunk off, I use a shop vac to suck up all the water that pools on top of the engine and elsewhere before driving it a bit to get everything nice and dry. Cleaning your engine bay is especially important in the spring if you live in an area with road salt. If so, I also recommend using a sprinkler like the one below to clean off the underside of the car as well. 

Yeah, I'm anal retentive about it, but it works very well. You can eat off the engine in my '01 GTI it's so clean.


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## DerSpiegel (Jun 20, 2008)

IJM said:


> I just use some simple green in a spray bottle, a soft wheel brush, and a hose attachment like this that gives you a high volume of water at low pressure (designed for watering plants). Cover up the brake fluid reservoir or any other things you don't want to get wet (top of oil dipstick) with plastic or aluminum foil, take off any plastic shrouds or covers, and gently spray it down with the garden wand. Spray everything with simple green or another mild cleaner of your choice, using the brush on the stubborn areas. After hosing everything down a second time to rinse all the cleaner and gunk off, I use a shop vac to suck up all the water that pools on top of the engine and elsewhere before driving it a bit to get everything nice and dry. Cleaning your engine bay is especially important in the spring if you live in an area with road salt. If so, I also recommend using a sprinkler like the one below to clean off the underside of the car as well.
> 
> Yeah, I'm anal retentive about it, but it works very well. You can eat off the engine in my '01 GTI it's so clean.


That is a restaurant quality post. I've always wondered how best to do an engine bay clean, and now I know. Thanks ++++


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## Quinn1.8t (Oct 8, 2006)

DerSpiegel said:


> That is a restaurant quality post. I've always wondered how best to do an engine bay clean, and now I know. Thanks ++++


More here if you are interested. The whole detailing guide is actually quite fantastic.

Engine Bay Auto Detailing


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## DerSpiegel (Jun 20, 2008)

Quinn1.8t said:


> More here if you are interested. The whole detailing guide is actually quite fantastic.
> 
> Engine Bay Auto Detailing


SUPERB, thanks for that.


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## J2G (Aug 9, 2012)

Why is it that many aftermarket ITB setups appear to have no filter at all?

Example:










I would be very concerned about unwanted objects/particles making it into the engine easily, especially if it's being driven with the same mentality that drove the owner to install ITBs in the first plcae.


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## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

J2G said:


> Why is it that many aftermarket ITB setups appear to have no filter at all?
> 
> Example:
> 
> ...


Some, not all, but some have the filters built in. Its more of a cosmetic thing. Although its more like mesh screens than filters. ITB's arent meant to be daily driven anyways so who knows


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

J2G said:


> Why is it that many aftermarket ITB setups appear to have no filter at all?
> 
> Example:
> 
> ...


It's just for show, to show off the ITB's. 

Most racecars running ITBs still run an airbox like this;



















Or just foam socks on the ramtubes;


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## volkstyle (May 11, 2010)

I never ever launch my R32, its got a new lightweight flywheel and stg 1 clutch. Would it be ok once in a while to have some fun? 3k clutch dump? Ive heard of guys dumping the clucth at 4k on here. My girlfriend and good friend say i drive like a bitch :laugh:. I have done it before on accident not paying attention and that feeling of the car gripping and going while being thrown back into the seats was nice...


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## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

volkstyle said:


> I never ever launch my R32, its got a new lightweight flywheel and stg 1 clutch. Would it be ok once in a while to have some fun? 3k clutch dump? Ive heard of guys dumping the clucth at 4k on here. My girlfriend and good friend say i drive like a bitch :laugh:. I have done it before on accident not paying attention and that feeling of the car gripping and going while being thrown back into the seats was nice...


I think it would be okay to be done once in a while. The new WRX was tested by Car and Driver and they state their test car endured 14 clutch dumps, _while being encouraged by the Subaru engineer to do so!_

http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/2015-subaru-wrx-sedan-manual-test-review

Ultimately it is your car, and any damage it sustains would have to be fixed by you. It also depends how much power the car in particular is putting out at the flywheel. I think it is fine to say that anything less than around 350 hp, any durable clutch material can take a drop now and then. Higher than that, the clutch type will have to be made more durable at the expense of drivability.


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## J2G (Aug 9, 2012)

Cool, thanks for the replies guys.


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## MDTurborocco (Aug 24, 2003)

How does fuel cut work? Say your in gear going downhill, you let off the gas. That would mean no fuel is being sent through the injectors? Obviously at idle the engine needs fuel to run, but I have a habit of coasting in neutral thinking its better than high rpms off throttle... Thanks


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## volkstyle (May 11, 2010)

DonPatrizio said:


> I think it would be okay to be done once in a while. The new WRX was tested by Car and Driver and they state their test car endured 14 clutch dumps, _while being encouraged by the Subaru engineer to do so!_
> 
> http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/2015-subaru-wrx-sedan-manual-test-review
> 
> Ultimately it is your car, and any damage it sustains would have to be fixed by you. It also depends how much power the car in particular is putting out at the flywheel. I think it is fine to say that anything less than around 350 hp, any durable clutch material can take a drop now and then. Higher than that, the clutch type will have to be made more durable at the expense of drivability.


Ya I think ill still drive it like a bitch but good to know it could handle it, thanks.


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## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

MDTurborocco said:


> How does fuel cut work? Say your in gear going downhill, you let off the gas. That would mean no fuel is being sent through the injectors? Obviously at idle the engine needs fuel to run, but I have a habit of coasting in neutral thinking its better than high rpms off throttle... Thanks


Yep, the ecu just stops driving the injectors and they sit closed with no fuel being injected. When you press on the gas or reach a specified rpm the ecu starts injecting fuel again. Spinning an engine will not hurt it if it didn't have fuel, unless you're mechanically over revving it. In fact, many (most?) Mfgs test engines after they're built on a machine that mechanically rotates them without fuel to ensure they have compression, oil pressure, etc.


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## Bartnik (Oct 26, 2000)

MDTurborocco said:


> How does fuel cut work? Say your in gear going downhill, you let off the gas. That would mean no fuel is being sent through the injectors? Obviously at idle the engine needs fuel to run, but I have a habit of coasting in neutral thinking its better than high rpms off throttle... Thanks


Yes, fuel supply is cut off when the engine is on the overrun. Some people coast in neutral because they think they're using less fuel but in fact they would be using less fuel just leaving it in gear. Not to mention coasting in neutral is generally a bad idea as you don't have the ability to react as quickly to take evasive action as you would if you were still in gear.

On an older car without fuel cutoff there may be some logic to that but in my view it's still overruled by the safety considerations.


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## MDTurborocco (Aug 24, 2003)

:thumbup::beer:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

MDTurborocco said:


> How does fuel cut work? Say your in gear going downhill, you let off the gas. That would mean no fuel is being sent through the injectors? Obviously at idle the engine needs fuel to run, but I have a habit of coasting in neutral thinking its better than high rpms off throttle... Thanks





Bartnik said:


> Yes, fuel supply is cut off when the engine is on the overrun. Some people coast in neutral because they think they're using less fuel but in fact they would be using less fuel just leaving it in gear. Not to mention coasting in neutral is generally a bad idea as you don't have the ability to react as quickly to take evasive action as you would if you were still in gear.
> 
> On an older car without fuel cutoff there may be some logic to that but in my view it's still overruled by the safety considerations.


Older cars, meaning early fuel injection, have a deceleration fuel cutoff point (in my car it's 1175RPM), which is the point that fuel starts being injected again. So for example, if you're coasting above 1175, it'll cut fuel, but when it drops below that point it starts injecting idle amounts of fuel and decel slows down a tad (and is no longer economic). The idea there (making the deceleration point higher than idle itself) is that if you freerev, or let the revs fall without coasting (engine returning itself to idle), instead of suddenly injecting fuel AT idle, which would be noisy, harsh, and possibly produce a stall, the car starts fuel early (and the idle air valve can take over too at this point) to settle to idle smoothly. I think ewer cars have stages (like the rev limiter), and some even have specific rules for when the engine for some reason gets below idle (say a slightly faulty start), and "rev hang" (a slowing of the throttle valve so it doesn't snap shut) on closed throttle, all for fuel reasons. 

I'm not sure how it works on carbs but I assume it's some function of high vacuum (meaning low load/closed throttle). Deceleration fuel shutoffs have been the norm for many many years I believe. 

Also, fun fact, neutral coasting is actually legally banned in some municipalities for safety reasons. never tell anyone you do it! lol.


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## Brett92 (Nov 20, 2002)

Are big-rig style trucks "fast" when there's no trailer attached?

Is a sub 8 second 0-60 time possible? 

Seems like there's plenty of power, but I guess the gearing would keep it from accelerating quicker.


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## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

Im almost 100% certain this has been asked but i dont wanna look through all these pages :laugh:


What is rev matching and how do you do it? Also do you need to press the clutch in when shifting out of gear to neutral? Or can you just pop it out of gear?


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## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

RacerrRex said:


> Im almost 100% certain this has been asked but i dont wanna look through all these pages :laugh:
> 
> 
> What is rev matching and how do you do it? Also do you need to press the clutch in when shifting out of gear to neutral? Or can you just pop it out of gear?


I'm sorry I'm taking the lazy approach, but read this:

http://www.drivingfast.net/car-control/rev-matching.htm


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

Smigelski said:


> I'm sorry I'm taking the lazy approach, but read this:












I know it's not your graphic, but my OCD just went off the charts. I wish I could be doing 60mph in 6th gear at 1000 RPMs.... :laugh:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Brett92 said:


> Are big-rig style trucks "fast" when there's no trailer attached?
> 
> Is a sub 8 second 0-60 time possible?
> 
> Seems like there's plenty of power, but I guess the gearing would keep it from accelerating quicker.


This is a good illustration of the difference between horsepower and torque. Horsepower lets you go fast, and less weight means much faster. Torque means you go like a freight train, about the same regardless of weight ( oversimplification, of chose, but hope you understand).

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

A friend of mine told me that leaving your car idol (like when running into a store or something) is bad for the catalytic converter .. I've never heard suck a thing and cant figure how that's true ???


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

skydive_007 said:


> A friend of mine told me that leaving your car idol (like when running into a store or something) is bad for the catalytic converter .. I've never heard suck a thing and cant figure how that's true ???



You mean idle.

And no, it isn't. 

Unless, of course, there's something else wrong to begin with.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

The catalytic converter does "wear". But a little idling won't hurt it

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk


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## Luck o' the Irish (May 17, 2012)

skydive_007 said:


> A friend of mine told me that leaving your car idol (like when running into a store or something) is bad for the catalytic converter .. I've never heard suck a thing and cant figure how that's true ???


It would only hurt it because of the fact that it is being used. Obviously if it is not being used, it will have more life.


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## ttvick (Aug 15, 2007)

2002 A4 Avant 1.8t... Was driving back home for the weekend last night with the dog in the back and the a/c on full blast. Noticed after a while that the air was no longer cold. Stopped for gas, and it was cold again for a little while after leaving the station, but gradually stopped cooling again. Got in the car this morning to take it for a recharge and it's cold again. What gives? Am I wasting money getting a recharge?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

It's dying, but not dead. 

AC works on pressure- as the engine (and ambient) temperature changes, the AC system pressure changes. It throws it back and forth across the functioning threshhold of the pressure sensors. A recharge should help, since you likely don't have any major leaks.


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## robr2 (May 5, 2005)

ttvick said:


> 2002 A4 Avant 1.8t... Was driving back home for the weekend last night with the dog in the back and the a/c on full blast. Noticed after a while that the air was no longer cold. Stopped for gas, and it was cold again for a little while after leaving the station, but gradually stopped cooling again. Got in the car this morning to take it for a recharge and it's cold again. What gives? Am I wasting money getting a recharge?


I had a similar issue with my 2005 Passat and was advised to replace a relay on the driver side. May be worth some investigation.


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## ttvick (Aug 15, 2007)

For posterity... Got a recharge. It worked.


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

okay...so I rented a car this weekend and was driving in stupid San Francisco for hours in heavy traffic... the car is a new chevy that has an "auto-stop" (HATED THIS FEATURE) Question is: would this not use more battery and more fuel and more wear and tear on a car than to just STAY RUNNING !??! It must have "auto-stopped" 3,056,427 times and then restarted during this madness in traffic


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## ByronLLN (Jul 29, 2004)

skydive_007 said:


> okay...so I rented a car this weekend and was driving in stupid San Francisco for hours in heavy traffic... the car is a new chevy that has an "auto-stop" (HATED THIS FEATURE) Question is: would this not use more battery and more fuel and more wear and tear on a car than to just STAY RUNNING !??! It must have "auto-stopped" 3,056,427 times and then restarted during this madness in traffic


Cars with auto start-stop have heavy-duty components designed specifically for this, and the function typically only works after the engine and emissions systems are warmed up, so there's no additional wear and tear. 

In fact, I think some of these are even combined with electric oil pumps to continue circulation while the car is stopped in traffic. Anyone know for sure?


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## Nealric (Feb 16, 2013)

skydive_007 said:


> okay...so I rented a car this weekend and was driving in stupid San Francisco for hours in heavy traffic... the car is a new chevy that has an "auto-stop" (HATED THIS FEATURE) Question is: would this not use more battery and more fuel and more wear and tear on a car than to just STAY RUNNING !??! It must have "auto-stopped" 3,056,427 times and then restarted during this madness in traffic


Modern fuel injected cars don't use any additional fuel on startup. Battery drain is negligible.


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## SVTDanny (Aug 8, 2005)

ttvick said:


> 2002 A4 Avant 1.8t... Was driving back home for the weekend last night with the dog in the back and the a/c on full blast. Noticed after a while that the air was no longer cold. Stopped for gas, and it was cold again for a little while after leaving the station, but gradually stopped cooling again. Got in the car this morning to take it for a recharge and it's cold again. What gives? Am I wasting money getting a recharge?


Low pressure in the system, causing the evaporator to ice over. Ice = no air moving through it = no cold air blowing.


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

Bartnik said:


> Yes, fuel supply is cut off when the engine is on the overrun. Some people coast in neutral because they think they're using less fuel but in fact they would be using less fuel just leaving it in gear. Not to mention coasting in neutral is generally a bad idea as you don't have the ability to react as quickly to take evasive action as you would if you were still in gear.
> 
> On an older car without fuel cutoff there may be some logic to that but in my view it's still overruled by the safety considerations.


you sure about that? there is much more parasitic loss in turning the transmission than in neutral. plus the amount of gas used for neutral is negligible. Keep in mind you are slowing down when keeping it in gear at a much faster rate, so if this is done down a hill, and you continue to go forward afterwards neutral save MUCH more gas.


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## z0d (Oct 13, 2009)

speed51133! said:


> you sure about that? there is much more parasitic loss in turning the transmission than in neutral. plus the amount of gas used for neutral is negligible. Keep in mind you are slowing down when keeping it in gear at a much faster rate, so if this is done down a hill, and you continue to go forward afterwards neutral save MUCH more gas.


A negligible amount of fuel is infinitely more than none. There really isn't any disputing the existence or the effectiveness of DFCO.


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## DenCo (Sep 13, 2004)

If you gave adderall to a Fiesta, will it become a Focus?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

speed51133! said:


> you sure about that? there is much more parasitic loss in turning the transmission than in neutral. plus the amount of gas used for neutral is negligible. Keep in mind you are slowing down when keeping it in gear at a much faster rate, so if this is done down a hill, and you continue to go forward afterwards neutral save MUCH more gas.


Transmission drag doesn't matter when your engine braking... Getting back on the gas, you'll just be driving again so that doesn't matter.

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

speed51133! said:


> you sure about that? there is much more parasitic loss in turning the transmission than in neutral. plus the amount of gas used for neutral is negligible. Keep in mind you are slowing down when keeping it in gear at a much faster rate, so if this is done down a hill, and you continue to go forward afterwards neutral save MUCH more gas.


When you're in neutral the engine physically can't turn without fuel. When you're in gear, the wheels effectively drive the engine, which is why the ECU is able to shut fuel off completely. So coasting in gear is more fuel efficient, but not mechanically so. Depends how long you are coasting for I guess.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

I can get "free" A/C in my Yaris when coasting or on long downhill grades, not sure if other cars are as accommodating.

When coasting in gear, even with the compressor engaged, it doesn't use any fuel (0.00 gallons per hour on the ScanGauge) since the forward momentum of the car is sufficient to turn the compressor. 

If I see a light turn red in the distance, and no one's behind me, I just leave it in gear and coast up to it, only clutching in when the revs hit 1300 or so (that's when it starts re-firing the injectors), downshifting through the gears to keep the revs up if necessary. Of course the additional drag from the drivetrain and engaged compressor will slow the car more than coasting in neutral, but in normal driving I can rarely coast for more than half a mile or so, anyway -- coasting in neutral would result in higher speeds (using gas the whole time), getting to the light sooner, then having to use the brakes to slow down, then using gas sitting there idling. Idling with the A/C off uses .13 GPH, with it on it is around .4 GPH -- pretty big difference. Higher displacement cars use a lot more than my 1500cc car, so it's even more of a difference.

So I try to stay rolling as long as possible since the car's not using any gas the whole time -- it is ideal if you can get to the light doing 10 or 15 MPH so you don't have to start from a dead stop (that's what uses the most gas in traffic). If I'm on a faster road and know I will hit a red light if I coast, sometimes I will stab the brakes to drop the speed 20-30 MPH in an effort to still be rolling when the light turns green (again, I only do this if no one is behind me).

On long downhill grades in the mountains I have not used any fuel for several miles at a time, even with the A/C on. I will let the car gain speed on its own in undulating terrain, (up to 20-30 MPH over the limit for brief spurts), letting the car slow back down to the limit on the uphill parts. This uses much less gas since you're using the momentum to get up the next hill, but I do maintain speed if other cars are around since I know it is annoying to others (MPG drops like a rock, though).

If I'm in an economy mood I will even turn the A/C off on the uphill side, then blast it on the downhill!

/nerdalert


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

adrew said:


> I can get "free" A/C in my Yaris when coasting or on long downhill grades, not sure if other cars are as accommodating.
> 
> When coasting in gear, even with the compressor engaged, it doesn't use any fuel (0.00 gallons per hour on the ScanGauge) since the forward momentum of the car is sufficient to turn the compressor.
> 
> If I see a light turn red in the distance, and no one's behind me, I just leave it in gear and coast up to it, only clutching in when the revs hit 1300 or so (that's when it starts re-firing the injectors), downshifting through the gears to keep the revs up if necessary.


That would be the same for every car. Free electricity and power steering, too!  but even with no accessories, no fuel is infinitely more economic than even a tiny bit, as another poster put it. 

My friend does that downshifting thing, I will sometimes go down one if it's a long coast with a steady speed, but usually I am slowing down too quick by 3-2-1 to bother that much. I guess that depends on gearing. 

The Top Gear special with the AUdi A8 TDI Jeremy drove getting the most he could out of it was particularly enlightening on how to drive economically, and how that differed from the way Jeremy drives


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

VDub2625 said:


> My friend does that downshifting thing, I will sometimes go down one if it's a long coast with a steady speed, but usually I am slowing down too quick by 3-2-1 to bother that much. I guess that depends on gearing.


Right - I will usually just leave it in 5th the whole time, then clutch in right before I come to a stop. But if it is a longer one, I will drop to 3rd or 2nd, then ride that out. I'm not going 5-4-3-2-1 or anything like that. :thumbup:


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## J2G (Aug 9, 2012)

Why do the majority of FF cars use a transverse layout, but the majority of MR cars use a longitudinal layout? Is it just because MRs tend to have bigger engines that can't fit sideways?


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

J2G said:


> Why do the majority of FF cars use a transverse layout, but the majority of MR cars use a longitudinal layout? Is it just because MRs tend to have bigger engines that can't fit sideways?




The FF layout has the primary job of being a clever packaging solution, so that you don't give up cabin or trunk space for drivetrain components.

Most MR cars are closer to purpose built for performance and balance than the packaging solution a FF platform offers.

As a result, things like a lower center of gravity, closer to the middle of the platform, dictate the drive train orientation.

Typically, a transverse layout sets the engine at a higher point, to allow for the transmission to be mated below or next to it, also calling for the use of unequal length driveshafts. Not that these disadvantages can't be solved with engineering, but as with most things, simpler is usually better.

A longitudinal layout allows for a lower mounting, along the car's centerline, with the transaxle behind it, and equal length shafts to the rear wheels. Simple, balanced, tidy. 

That's just a basic reasoning, as there's likely more technical explanations.


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## Power5 (Jun 19, 2001)

Longitudinal ff setup would put most engines out past the bumper of typical ff transverse setups. No other reason really. How many reviewers complain about the nose heavy understeer of audis that use a longitudinal setup? The engine has to be in front of the wheel center line so the trans can spin the axles.

via my Note 3


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## tankton (Jun 25, 2013)

Power5 said:


> Longitudinal ff setup would put most engines out past the bumper of typical ff transverse setups. No other reason really. How many reviewers complain about the nose heavy understeer of audis that use a longitudinal setup? The engine has to be in front of the wheel center line so the trans can spin the axles.
> 
> via my Note 3


Yeah, the only other solution was Acura's setup in the 2nd gen Legend and first gen RL. Mount the engine like a normal RWD car, transmission too, and put the diff where most RWD-based AWD cars have it: next to the engine, halfshafts straight through the oil pan (like BMW and Jaguar would do to convert their later RWD platforms to AWD).




Resulted in good proportions like this:



Because this: (though it also gave a better F/R weight distribution, and reduced inertial weight up front).












But it needed this to happen, and that was not such a great engineering choice:


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## VWestlife (Sep 29, 2004)

tankton said:


> Yeah, the only other solution was Acura's setup in the 2nd gen Legend and first gen RL. Mount the engine like a normal RWD car, transmission too, and put the diff where most RWD-based AWD cars have it: next to the engine, halfshafts straight through the oil pan (like BMW and Jaguar would do to convert their later RWD platforms to AWD).


Or you could put the transmission in front of the engine, like Citroën and Renault did. The only disadvantage is an awkward shift linkage, usually with the shifter coming out of the dashboard instead of on the floor, and also in a small car with limited space, the engine would be partially crammed into the center console, sacrificing knee room.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I think he was more wondering why MR setups aren't transverse, not about alternate FF setups (but that is some cool info up there!). But I suppose there's more room if you get rid of the baak seat, lol.

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk


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## deagle (Feb 22, 2011)

in need of a new car and was curious :

are pre-purchase inspections that much different than a standard annual inspection ?

(hoping some service techs or even sales personnel can provide some valuable intel here)_


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

There's no "standard" inspection for presale, and no national standard for inspections, and even the state standards for inspection usually get breezed over. Just make sure a mechanic you trust looks over the car thoroughly.

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

deagle said:


> in need of a new car and was curious :
> 
> are pre-purchase inspections that much different than a standard annual inspection ?
> 
> (hoping some service techs or even sales personnel can provide some valuable intel here)_


I would think so. Here in Texas the state inspection is just cursory (mostly concerned with emissions and that your lights, wipers and brakes are good). They wouldn't check if the engine was sludged up, if the coolant was milky, for common issues with that particular model, etc.


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## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

out of curiosity, why do people not drive some cars in the rain and more importantly why do they make note to point out and mention that its never seen rain (on for sale ads)?

Snow i can understand, because the salt corrodes and rusts cars. But rain is just water. Its harmless. The sunlight on paint is more damaging to cars than rain falling. Whats the big deal about cars being driven during rain vs cars that have not?


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## Shmi (Mar 25, 2009)

RacerrRex said:


> out of curiosity, why do people not drive some cars in the rain and more importantly why do they make note to point out and mention that its never seen rain (on for sale ads)?
> 
> Snow i can understand, because the salt corrodes and rusts cars. But rain is just water. Its harmless. The sunlight on paint is more damaging to cars than rain falling. Whats the big deal about cars being driven during rain vs cars that have not?


As a related question do those same people never wash their cars? 

IMO it's more of a statement on how the car was babied. Bare steel will rust in contact with moisture though, but modern cars with good rust proofing shouldn't rust to peices just by driving in the wet.


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## ADeHelian (Oct 1, 2009)

deagle said:


> in need of a new car and was curious :
> 
> are pre-purchase inspections that much different than a standard annual inspection ?
> 
> (hoping some service techs or even sales personnel can provide some valuable intel here)_


Here in PA, annual inspection focuses on emissions testing and then the safety aspect, only requiring the tech to check safety items. (ie. balljoints, lights, etc)

A pre purchase inspection is usually a lot more intensive. They check all the knobs, make sure the heat blows hot and air blows cold. They make sure each speed of the blower motor works. They would open all the doors, hood, and hatch/trunk and make sure all hinges are lubed. Check all the interior plastics, seat heaters, seat motors, window defrosters, navigation screen, etc, etc. Basically they check everything for correct operation. Last thing they want is a brand new car coming to the dealership because the manufacturer messed something up. For example my mother bought a 2013 ford fiesta. The pre purchse inspection must have been less then sufficient, because the first hot day she turned on the AC and it seized up the compressor, and roasted the belt off. The car had 60 miles on it. The manufacturer forgot to charge the AC, had the pre purchase inspection been done correctly, they would have caught that beforehand.


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## autoxmack (Dec 2, 2007)

Shmi said:


> As a related question do those same people never wash their cars?
> 
> IMO it's more of a statement on how the car was babied. Bare steel will rust in contact with moisture though, but modern cars with good rust proofing shouldn't rust to peices just by driving in the wet.


It's not about rust, but keeping the car pristine. Water gets everywhere and likely bring grime, salt and whatever else is on the road along with it. My new car has about 2K on the clock but it's been rainy here, and even after multiple street sweepings, there's still salt and grime built up in the rubber and seals even with regular washings. Imagine all the nooks and crannies that the water can get into from the bottom. 

A guy I work with has a 30 Y.O. Vette that was never driven in the wet and it looks like it just came off the assembly line. Every assembly chalkmark, sticker etc. is still on every part like it's never even been driven.


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## Shmi (Mar 25, 2009)

My coworker just replaced pistons in a vehicle and I had a wacky thought/question: What would happen if you were to reassemble the engine but leave out the pistons and conrods? In a fuel-injected system, it would still inject fuel into the empty cylinders, and I feel like after enough has been injected, it would ignite, so would the engine basically just explode? Or would the expanding explosion escape through whichever intake and/or exhausts valves are open at the time?

Stupid question? Probably. Not really a serious one, just bored at work and it got us wondering and wanting to try it w/ some junk motor or something, which we honestly probably won't.


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## Power5 (Jun 19, 2001)

Shmi said:


> My coworker just replaced pistons in a vehicle and I had a wacky thought/question: What would happen if you were to reassemble the engine but leave out the pistons and conrods? In a fuel-injected system, it would still inject fuel into the empty cylinders, and I feel like after enough has been injected, it would ignite, so would the engine basically just explode? Or would the expanding explosion escape through whichever intake and/or exhausts valves are open at the time?
> 
> Stupid question? Probably. Not really a serious one, just bored at work and it got us wondering and wanting to try it w/ some junk motor or something, which we honestly probably won't.


The entire oil pan and engine would fill with gasoline. That would be something like 6 liters or more of fuel for a 2L 4cyl. That is just assuming a 4qt pan and 2.0L engine. There is probably at least 3L of empty space in a 2.0L engine though.

Would be quite a bang. Better sit in the back seat.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Shmi said:


> My coworker just replaced pistons in a vehicle and I had a wacky thought/question: What would happen if you were to reassemble the engine but leave out the pistons and conrods? In a fuel-injected system, it would still inject fuel into the empty cylinders, and I feel like after enough has been injected, it would ignite, so would the engine basically just explode? Or would the expanding explosion escape through whichever intake and/or exhausts valves are open at the time?
> 
> Stupid question? Probably. Not really a serious one, just bored at work and it got us wondering and wanting to try it w/ some junk motor or something, which we honestly probably won't.


I doubt anything would happen aside from diluted oil. Flooded cars don't blow up, and the battery would probably drain from continuous starter usage long before a decent amount of fuel could accumulate.


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## J2G (Aug 9, 2012)

Is there any simple way to explain how an automatic transmission works? All I know is that there are planetary gears. I'm sure they do something very important.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

The explanation on howstuffworks.com is pretty straight forward.


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## devianb (Feb 7, 2008)

Why do police vehicles, even unmarked ones have chrome center caps?


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## VWestlife (Sep 29, 2004)

devianb said:


> Why do police vehicles, even unmarked ones have chrome center caps?


Probably because due to how often the wheels come off of a police car (to rotate tires, replace flats, put on snow tires in the winter, etc.), any kind of paint on the center caps would just get worn off, so they use either polished metal or metal with a thick chrome plating. Also probably to reduce the chance of corrosion.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

J2G said:


> Is there any simple way to explain how an automatic transmission works? All I know is that there are planetary gears. I'm sure they do something very important.





TwoLitreVW said:


> The explanation on howstuffworks.com is pretty straight forward.


Autos are still a mystery to me too. I tried the HSW page years ago and still just couldn't grasp it. It's one of those densely engineered things that you need to dissect to really understand, I think. (that helped me learn about manual transmissions!)


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

VDub2625 said:


> Autos are still a mystery to me too. I tried the HSW page years ago and still just couldn't grasp it. It's one of those densely engineered things that you need to dissect to really understand, I think. (that helped me learn about manual transmissions!)


While quite complicated as a piece of machinery the concept is quite simple. Engine output is put into a fluid chamber were vanes in the torque converter interact to transfer power to the transmission where there is a valve body that tells the gears to change places based on the speed of a vehicle.


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## Harpoon (Jan 5, 2008)

Shmi said:


> My coworker just replaced pistons in a vehicle and I had a wacky thought/question: What would happen if you were to reassemble the engine but leave out the pistons and conrods? In a fuel-injected system, it would still inject fuel into the empty cylinders, and I feel like after enough has been injected, it would ignite, so would the engine basically just explode? Or would the expanding explosion escape through whichever intake and/or exhausts valves are open at the time?
> 
> Stupid question? Probably. Not really a serious one, just bored at work and it got us wondering and wanting to try it w/ some junk motor or something, which we honestly probably won't.


The other two answers people gave you don't make any sense. The answer is that nothing would happen. There would be no explosion at all. How could there be? The combustion engines rely on compression. Compression (the piston coming up to top dead center with atomized fuel and squished air) heats this mixture and due to the nature of compression makes it extremely volatile and ready to ignite via spark. 

But here is the thing. A four stroke engine starts with the intake stroke, opening the intake valve(s) as the piston moves down to suck in air and fuel at the same time. Then the piston moves up (this is the compression stroke) and squeezes that air and fuel mixture into the confined space that is the combustion chamber. Then the spark plug fires in the combustion chamber, making the mixture explode. The expansion rate of the explosion is what forces the piston down again for the power stroke. These are what keep the crankshaft spinning. And then there is an upward exhaust stroke in which the exhaust valve opens and the spent fuel and air are expelled 

The spark plug fires AFTER the injector sprays fuel in each cycle. If there were no pistons and you attempted to start the car, the crank would spin as long as the starter worked, fuel injecting and spark pulses would happen at different times and never come in contact with each other, and the fuel would just spray down through the crankcase into your oil pan, and your starter would die WAY before enough fuel could collect to come up the cylinder walls. Even then, you cannot ignite liquid gasoline, it must be a vapor or atomized. So hypothetically if you put a spark plug into a container of gasoline and ignites the plug, the full jug of gasoline would not catch on fire anyway. That's what flooding an engine is. Too much fuel in the cylinder to light.

Edit: Okay so one of the previous answers made sense but I felt a need to elaborate. :laugh:


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## Shmi (Mar 25, 2009)

Harpoon said:


> The other two answers people gave you don't make any sense. The answer is that nothing would happen. There would be no explosion at all. How could there be? The combustion engines rely on compression. Compression (the piston coming up to top dead center with atomized fuel and squished air) heats this mixture and due to the nature of compression makes it extremely volatile and ready to ignite via spark.
> 
> But here is the thing. A four stroke engine starts with the intake stroke, opening the intake valve(s) as the piston moves down to suck in air and fuel at the same time. Then the piston moves up (this is the compression stroke) and squeezes that air and fuel mixture into the confined space that is the combustion chamber. Then the spark plug fires in the combustion chamber, making the mixture explode. The expansion rate of the explosion is what forces the piston down again for the power stroke. These are what keep the crankshaft spinning. And then there is an upward exhaust stroke in which the exhaust valve opens and the spent fuel and air are expelled
> 
> ...



That makes sense. I wasn't sure if compression was absolutely necessary for igniting the mixture - I figured it would still ignite if it was just atomized but not compressed, just not as energetically/explosively. And I didn't mean fuel coming up the cylinder walls haha I was just imagining an increasing amount of atomized fuel building up in a short enough amount of time, but after thinking about it it would probably just condense into larger droplets and fall into the crankcase/pan.


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## Harpoon (Jan 5, 2008)

Shmi said:


> That makes sense. I wasn't sure if compression was absolutely necessary for igniting the mixture - I figured it would still ignite if it was just atomized but not compressed, just not as energetically/explosively. And I didn't mean fuel coming up the cylinder walls haha I was just imagining an increasing amount of atomized fuel building up in a short enough amount of time, but after thinking about it it would probably just condense into larger droplets and fall into the crankcase/pan.


I fixed it now, but I meant to say "pistons" there and not "positions". I typed that whole thing on my phone though so gimmie a break.


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## Shmi (Mar 25, 2009)

Hahah no problem. Thanks for the detailed post.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

*FV-QR*










is this really BOSE's setup in an FD RX7? looks like crap.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

A.Wilder said:


> is this really BOSE's setup in an FD RX7? looks like crap.


 The googs says that yes, it is.


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## Zunflower (Jun 5, 2013)

It was considered state of the art at the time.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

it all looks very fancy, but is it really worth sacrificing 20% of your storage space on an already small car? :laugh:

I saw this in a CL ad and at first i had no idea what it was until i zoomed in and saw the BOSE logo.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Well, to your point, odds are good that people who bought that car didn't do it because of trunk space. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## nobbyv (May 18, 2001)

Was behind a car like this on the highway today, and it got me thinking:

What's going on when a truck (seems to always be with something body-on-frame, in this case late '90s Olds Bravada) seem to be "tracking crooked" or crabbing? That is, it's going perfectly straight down the road, but the body itself appears to be slightly angled, so that on one side the front bumper (for example) protrudes noticeably, while on the other the bumper isn't even visibly. Is this a definite sign of damage (frame?), or could the rack get misaligned in such a way that this would happen? Or possibly all of the above? 

On the plus side, he got off the same exit as me, and pulled in at Meineke, so hopefully he got it straightened out.


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## NashGTI (Mar 8, 2006)

That is what is called "thrust line" in alignment speak. If the rear wheel toe is off side to side, this will cause the vehicle to turn, think rear wheel steering. To compensate you turn the steering wheel into the turn to make the vehicle go straight. This was much more common in the days of a straight rear axle beam or really before rear toe adjustments became commonplace. It was a pain in the butt to straighten the rear toe, like loosen the rear axle on the rear leafs and attempt to line it up with the frame.

Alignment shops would do what was called a "thrust line alignment" which really was just seeing where the rear of the car was pointed, and then lining up the front wheels to counter that.

The condition you describe is also known as "dog tracking"


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## HaterSlayer (Oct 19, 2007)

Driving late at night a lot I see deer. What should you do if you hit a deer if you can drive away? Call the cops and have them come or just call your insurance company the next day?

Also if on the highway(or any 3 lane road) and both people try to merge into one lane and if they collide then who would be at fault?


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

HaterSlayer said:


> Also if on the highway(or any 3 lane road) and both people try to merge into one lane and if they collide then who would be at fault?


50/50; each insurer will pay out half the other party's costs. I think.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

HaterSlayer said:


> Also if on the highway(or any 3 lane road) and both people try to merge into one lane and if they collide then who would be at fault?


I'm guessing the left lane person, unless the right lane person was nose-ahead. Similar to a standard sideswipe.


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## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

HaterSlayer said:


> Driving late at night a lot I see deer. What should you do if you hit a deer if you can drive away? Call the cops and have them come or just call your insurance company the next day?
> 
> Also if on the highway(or any 3 lane road) and both people try to merge into one lane and if they collide then who would be at fault?


the person coming from the left most lane is at fault I believe, but this may vary based on location I feel


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Dravenport said:


> the person coming from the left most lane is at fault I believe, but this may vary based on location I feel


That's why I think the US system of picking whatever lane you want is kind of stupid. 

Why doesn't the US follow the European model of slow traffic staying right and only using the left lanes to overtake? If you are always faster than the traffic on your right then this type of situation should never happen


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

thegave said:


> That's why I think the US system of picking whatever lane you want is kind of stupid.
> 
> Why doesn't the US follow the European model of slow traffic staying right and only using the left lanes to overtake? If you are always faster than the traffic on your right then this type of situation should never happen


That's how it's supposed to be, it's just never enforced.

I've only seen somebody get pulled over for holding up traffic once in my life. On the new jersey turnpike no less.


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## BTM (Feb 20, 2007)

When I park my car, that is brand new and doesn't leak anything, what is that "dripping" sound?


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## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

BTM said:


> When I park my car, that is brand new and doesn't leak anything, what is that "dripping" sound?


Probably A/C or exhaust cooling off.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

TwoLitreVW said:


> That's how it's supposed to be, it's just never enforced.
> 
> I've only seen somebody get pulled over for holding up traffic once in my life. On the new jersey turnpike no less.


When I got my license in CA I remember the road traffic book they give you saying that on freeways drivers should select the lane that "moves smoothest" for them or something. I do occasionally see signs that say slower traffic keep right but that's mostly on major roads like I-5.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

TwoLitreVW said:


> That's how it's supposed to be, it's just never enforced.
> 
> I've only seen somebody get pulled over for holding up traffic once in my life. On the new jersey turnpike no less.


They just started a law in Massachusetts where you are required to pull over for faster vehicles and can be given a ticket for it. Don't know about other States.


----------



## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

thegave said:


> When I got my license in CA I remember the road traffic book they give you saying that on freeways drivers should select the lane that "moves smoothest" for them or something. I do occasionally see signs that say slower traffic keep right but that's mostly on major roads like I-5.


when I was doing driver's ed and testing for my license in the mid 90s in Ontario, Canada it was pretty explicit about staying in the middle/right lane except to pass.


----------



## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

TwoLitreVW said:


> That's how it's supposed to be, it's just never enforced.
> 
> I've only seen somebody get pulled over for holding up traffic once in my life. On the new jersey turnpike no less.


In my experience, NJ is the best of the east coast states when it comes to lane discipline. MD and CT are the worst.:banghead:




BTM said:


> When I park my car, that is brand new and doesn't leak anything, what is that "dripping" sound?





ThreadBomber said:


> Probably A/C or exhaust cooling off.


Either than or it's the oil dripping back into the pan.


----------



## silvermouse5150 (Nov 22, 2003)

HaterSlayer said:


> Driving late at night a lot I see deer. What should you do if you hit a deer if you can drive away? Call the cops and have them come or just call your insurance company the next day?
> 
> Also if on the highway(or any 3 lane road) and both people try to merge into one lane and if they collide then who would be at fault?


As far as hitting the deer is concerned - I think you're supposed to call animal control and the cops.
I have a lot of deer nearby also, twice had one dart across right in front of me so fast that I didn't even slow down until after it crossed.
But, yeah that's my plan in case I ever do hit one.


----------



## silvermouse5150 (Nov 22, 2003)

thegave said:


> That's why I think the US system of picking whatever lane you want is kind of stupid.
> 
> Why doesn't the US follow the European model of slow traffic staying right and only using the left lanes to overtake? If you are always faster than the traffic on your right then this type of situation should never happen


As others have stated, this is how it definitely SHOULD be.
In Georgia they passed a "slow-poke" bill that is supposed to enforce this. Even specifies that it doesn't matter if you are going the speed limit, you need to move over.

Law went into effect July 1st and everyday to and from work I see the same thing of people hogging the left lane backing cars up, not letting traffic flow through. As they pass state patrol and other cops on the freeway, they haven't done a thing to enforce it.

Oh well.

P.S.: Props out to Washington State! They know how to drive on the freeway over there. They obey the slower traffic keep right rule.


----------



## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

silvermouse5150 said:


> P.S.: Props out to Washington State! They know how to drive on the freeway over there. They obey the slower traffic keep right rule.


:screwy::screwy:

It's actually a law in the state and people still suck ass at it


----------



## silvermouse5150 (Nov 22, 2003)

ThreadBomber said:


> :screwy::screwy:
> 
> It's actually a law in the state and people still suck ass at it


They suck ass at it less than many of the other states I've driven through.


----------



## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

*Porsche*

The new Porsche Macan is listed at $49,900 as its base price, but a Cayenne base price is $49,600. Why would Porsche price its two SUVs so similarly? 

I guess it's the same way you could get an Acadia for nearly $45,000, or get a Suburban for that. :screwy:


----------



## SLC_Punker (Mar 2, 2002)

What is "boost creep?" People say if you put an aftermarket downpipe without cats on a WRX, you get boost creep, so for the EJ25 they recommend sticking with a catted DP. So what exactly is boost creep?

I'd ask on NASIOC, but don't feel like being insulted


----------



## redshift (May 22, 2002)

silvermouse5150 said:


> They suck ass at it less than many of the other states I've driven through.


Wow, that's really sad for the rest of the country. I thought we were horrible at it, although ID and OR drivers are 100 times worse in my experience.


----------



## DerSpiegel (Jun 20, 2008)

SLC_Punker said:


> What is "boost creep?" People say if you put an aftermarket downpipe without cats on a WRX, you get boost creep, so for the EJ25 they recommend sticking with a catted DP. So what exactly is boost creep?
> 
> I'd ask on NASIOC, but don't feel like being insulted


It's when the amount of exhaust flow overwhelms the wastegate which can't dispose of enough of it. This causes boost pressures to rise, rise, rise. It's a problem specific to the STi if I remember correctly, especially with high flowing exhausts. Can't remember how to deal with it.


----------



## Grey Mouser (Oct 30, 2003)

DerSpiegel said:


> Can't remember how to deal with it.



Like so:


----------



## DerSpiegel (Jun 20, 2008)

DonPatrizio said:


> The new Porsche Macan is listed at $49,900 as its base price, but a Cayenne base price is $49,600. Why would Porsche price its two SUVs so similarly?


More coincidence than anything I figure, as the base Cayenne and Macan S are very different vehicles. Standard Cayenne is a family SUV and not much more, whereas the similarly priced Macan S is a far more performance focused machine. Also, the $49,600 base price on the Cayenne is for a bargain basement strippy model with no options, and there are like 7 Cayenne trim levels/engine combinations above that, up to $146K with the Cayenne Turbo. With the Macan there are only two trim levels, Macan S and Macan Turbo ($70K).


----------



## DerSpiegel (Jun 20, 2008)

Grey Mouser said:


> Like so:


:laugh: :thumbup:


----------



## Yo Teach (Aug 24, 2010)

I didn't think this was worth starting a new thread:

Is the 1988 BMW M5 the first car with a shoulder belt for the middle passenger, at least for the American market?

Look at the third page of photos: http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?zip=43537&endYear=1988&modelCode1=M5&showcaseOwnerId=606845&startYear=1981&makeCode1=BMW&searchRadius=0&mmt=[BMW[M5[]][]]&listingId=373256657&Log=0

The 528 and 535 of the same vintage do not have a shoulder belt for the middle passenger.


----------



## Giovanni (May 13, 2000)

What is the rear main seal? Someone asked me if I had it replaced on the Volvo I am selling.

I wanna say it is where the engine connects to the transmission but dunno. That is a big job to replace? Volvo 850s are prone to leaking there? Thanks


----------



## Harpoon (Jan 5, 2008)

Giovanni said:


> What is the rear main seal? Someone asked me if I had it replaced on the Volvo I am selling.
> 
> I wanna say it is where the engine connects to the transmission but dunno. That is a big job to replace? Volvo 850s are prone to leaking there? Thanks


It's the round seal that is seated around the backside of the crankshaft. It's accessed by dropping the transmission and removing the flywheel.

Here is an example. The six holes in the crankshaft are what the flywheel bolts to. The transmission conceals all of this when it is installed. The black painted tub looking section on the bottom is the oil pan.


----------



## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

Why aren't "automatic" headlights wired to the wiper stalk, so that when you turn on the wipers, the headlights turn on as well?

Why don't automatic transmissions have a longitudinal gyroscope connected to measure grade? Then, when the vehicle is on a significant down- or up-hill, the tranny can automatically (!) kick down a gear.


----------



## CostcoPizza (Jan 20, 2008)

Why isn't configurable AWD an option?

I know the ECU is extremely fast and accurate at detecting slip, but I'm surprised its not on performance cars.

For ex: Porsche 911 turbo -> Lock awd to 100% rear wheel to get a RWD feel even if some slip happens.




g-man_ae said:


> Why don't automatic transmissions have a longitudinal gyroscope connected to measure grade? Then, when the vehicle is on a significant down- or up-hill, the tranny can automatically (!) kick down a gear.


Most modern ones do. Its called grade logic or hill logic and does exactly what you said.

I know the DSG automatically downshifts in those situations


----------



## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

CostcoPizza said:


> Most modern ones do. Its called grade logic or hill logic and does exactly what you said.
> 
> I know the DSG automatically downshifts in those situations


The one in the CC must be set for VERY steep grades, then. On shallower hills it definitely hangs I too high of a gear and I have to manually intervene.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Harpoon (Jan 5, 2008)

CostcoPizza said:


> Why isn't configurable AWD an option?
> 
> I know the ECU is extremely fast and accurate at detecting slip, but I'm surprised its not on performance cars.
> 
> For ex: Porsche 911 turbo -> Lock awd to 100% rear wheel to get a RWD feel even if some slip happens.


Google Subaru DCCD and or VCD. :thumbup:


----------



## SoTxBill (Jan 14, 2001)

You gut the deer, put it in trunk, and go home like nothing happened.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

CostcoPizza said:


> Most modern ones do. Its called grade logic or hill logic and does exactly what you said.
> 
> I know the DSG automatically downshifts in those situations


I think the way it was expected to work in older cars is that going up a hill, you'll press the gas to get more power anyway, and the transmission *should* downshift if needed. THough not all situations are perfect and it'll feel strange since it's a temporary load.


----------



## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

My FIL traded his Hyundai Genesis v6 sedan in because he has a motorcycle trailer he pulls about twice a year about 1800 pounds fully loaded. He went to the hyundai dealer and was told not to put a hitch on it because the chassis can't handle it. The car will flex, making the windows smash or popout and void any warranty. Is there any truth to this claim? 

Traded it for a chrysler sebring convertible, because if the genesis was too flexy... :screwy::laugh:


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Lol that's so dumb. Wow. Don't ever go there again, they're idiots.


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

VDub2625 said:


> Lol that's so dumb. Wow. Don't ever go there again, they're idiots.



well, they're in the business of selling cars.

if they managed to sell a car to that customer using whatever reasoning they used (wrong, ill-advised, outright false, or whatever), then are they really that dumb? how, exactly, does procuring a sale out of a towing inquiry make them idiots?

liars, crooks, dishonest, and a few other things, sure.... but it seems to me they took a customer who wasn't looking to buy out of his existing car and put him into something else, and making money in the process.

sorry to the guy who posted it, but it appears they saw your FIL coming.


----------



## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

TwoLitreVW said:


> sorry to the guy who posted it, but it appears they saw your FIL coming.


He's got more money than brains sometimes. I didn't say anything because he's very stubborn and hard headed. The funny thing is he didn't trade the genesis at the hyundai dealer he went to a chrysler dealership. 

I was kind of shocked because i thought modern cars built in the past few years had very solid structures and while the Genesis isn't designed for towing, a motorcycle trailer didn't sound like too much stress with my non-existent knowledge of towing.


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

A.Wilder said:


> He's got more money than brains sometimes. I didn't say anything because he's very stubborn and hard headed. The funny thing is he didn't trade the genesis at the hyundai dealer he went to a chrysler dealership.
> 
> I was kind of shocked because i thought modern cars built in the past few years had very solid structures and while the Genesis isn't designed for towing, a motorcycle trailer didn't sound like too much stress with my non-existent knowledge of towing.



it didn't occur to him to check the owner's manual for towing data?


the googs says there's a few hitches available for that car (Curt, Drawtite, etc) with max ability around 3500LBs, however, that's not an indication of what the car can actually do. 

however, seeing as how the hitch even exists and is rated that high, i can't imagine towing half of what the hitch it built for should be a huge problem.

i don't think it has anything to do with the ability of the car or the available technology that goes into building them; it's the fact that he went into a dealership with a question he had no business asking them, and the dealership providing an answer to a question they weren't asked.


IE: your car is terrible, but we have THIS one that'll do what you want, just give us money.



lucky for you, it wasn't your mistake, and you're not the one paying for it.


----------



## THE KILLER RABBIT (Jun 2, 2003)

would it be possible to negotiate a deal on a new car and accept a high finance rate to trick the dealer to lower the retail value of the car. then just pay it off assuming you have a pile of cash on hand. lets assume the value saved is greater then the interest if kept money in bank, etc. so is this a possible tactic or do they usually have early fees?


----------



## z0d (Oct 13, 2009)

THE KILLER RABBIT said:


> would it be possible to negotiate a deal on a new car and accept a high finance rate to trick the dealer to lower the retail value of the car. then just pay it off assuming you have a pile of cash on hand. lets assume the value saved is greater then the interest if kept money in bank, etc. so is this a possible tactic or do they usually have early fees?


Well, the higher rate is going to be more profit for the bank, not the dealer, AFAIK.

But otherwise ignoring their motivation, the only potential hiccup would be some kind of early payment penalty. With the 3 cars I've financed, none of them have had one.


----------



## VWestlife (Sep 29, 2004)

Yo Teach said:


> I didn't think this was worth starting a new thread:
> 
> Is the 1988 BMW M5 the first car with a shoulder belt for the middle passenger, at least for the American market?
> 
> ...


Probably yes, considering that shoulder belts for even the outboard rear passengers weren't required in the USA until 1990. Most American cars of the '80s had those awful ratcheting lap belts in the back seat, that would suffocate you if you happened to inhale.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

TwoLitreVW said:


> if they managed to sell a car to that customer using whatever reasoning they used (wrong, ill-advised, outright false, or whatever), then are they really that dumb? how, exactly, does procuring a sale out of a towing inquiry make them idiots?


We can speculate why they said what they said, but remember, as stupid an idea as you can imagine, there's someone out there to prove you haven't thought far enough...


----------



## AZGolf (Jun 6, 2000)

TwoLitreVW said:


> it didn't occur to him to check the owner's manual for towing data?
> 
> the googs says there's a few hitches available for that car (Curt, Drawtite, etc) with max ability around 3500LBs, however, that's not an indication of what the car can actually do.
> 
> ...


*ahem*










The owner's manual says towing is not recommended. This means:


They can void your warranty
They can deny you service
You can be found negligent & liable in an accident while towing

The guy went into a Hyundai dealership, announced he had a Genesis and wanted to tow a trailer. They told him not to. If the dealership had told him to tow anyway, then if the guy got in an accident he could sue the dealership for negligence because the manual clearly states the Genesis is not recommended for towing. Dealer did what's right, and acted by the book (literally).


----------



## AeroWagon (Nov 2, 2009)

How come some V12 engine starters sound so much more awesome than other engines?

Example:


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

AZGolf said:


> *ahem*
> 
> 
> 
> ...




The Hyundai dealership may have done the right thing, but He got the car at a Chrysler dealership.

They sold him a Chrysler based on the fact that his Genesis sedan couldn't tow an 1800lb trailer.

I'm curious, why don't you also post the Chrysler Sebring Convertible towing ability?


----------



## Gitcha Sum (May 27, 2008)

LT1(LSx) 
I have an autometer gauge with a NPT threaded sensor. 
The ECU's sensor is in the block, but there's a secondary metric fitting. I could buy an adapter. 
When I put a new waterpump on, I NPT tapped the heater core lines because I'm not running one. Any reason I couldn't just stick the autometer temperature sensor in the NPT fitting in the side of the waterpump?


----------



## AlBeezy36 (Jun 25, 2008)

AeroWagon said:


> How come some V12 engine starters sound so much more awesome than other engines?
> 
> Example:


I did a very small amount of searching and came up dry, but I'm curious about this too. My guess is that it is some type of gear reduction or maybe straight cut gears due to higher loads on the starter?


----------



## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

AeroWagon said:


> How come some V12 engine starters sound so much more awesome than other engines?


I'll take a crack at this.

I would assume "awesome" is referring to the tone of the engine starting and the sound of the starter as it pushed each piston through its compression stroke.

The short answer is the frequency of compression/combustion events.

the starter tends to spin at a more even speed, as there are more events per rotation, this gives it more of a whirring sound as opposed to a 4 cylinders lump lump lump sound.

I can only find charts for 4,6,8 but just take the pattern finer and you should see what I mean.

These are torque output charts from a harmonic balancer maker, but imagine instead of engine torque output, they are starter motor torque input (and the pattern would be reversed, slow climb to TDC and steep drop after)


























If you take this example to infinity you end up with an engine with continuous compression (jet turbine) and it sounds like this:
This is actually an air driven starter, but the principle is the same.







The stroke and compression ratio also have a significant effect on the sound, a shorter stroke engine will have less difference between the peaks and valleys of each cylinder, so torque input (and torque output for that matter) is more even during the rotation.


----------



## VWestlife (Sep 29, 2004)

hognhominy said:


> This is actually an air driven starter, but the principle is the same.


Air starters are awesome.


----------



## tankton (Jun 25, 2013)

AlBeezy36 said:


> I did a very small amount of searching and came up dry, but I'm curious about this too. My guess is that it is some type of gear reduction or maybe straight cut gears due to higher loads on the starter?


I know on the McLaren F1, they deliberately cut out the starter for a rev or two. Gordon Murray noted the 60 degree V12 is too perfect at startup (something to do with firing order + just so many damn cylinders), and the deliberate tick makes it sound better. More theater.


----------



## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

deucestudios said:


> LT1(LSx)
> I have an autometer gauge with a NPT threaded sensor.
> The ECU's sensor is in the block, but there's a secondary metric fitting. I could buy an adapter.
> When I put a new waterpump on, I NPT tapped the heater core lines because I'm not running one. Any reason I couldn't just stick the autometer temperature sensor in the NPT fitting in the side of the waterpump?


You could, sure. 

Usually though, the best place for the sending unit is right before (engine side) the thermostat, as this is generally the hottest place.


----------



## MAC (Dec 9, 1999)

Do any brands of the brands of brake rotors available at rock auto or the major chains that have a decent anti-rust coating on the hat and inner vanes ?


----------



## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

Ok here is a question. 


Which would be more dangerous?

A. Texting the complete 5th Amendment to your Mom on an Apple i4, word for word while driving the tail of the Dragon at the exact speed limit (cruise control on).

B. Eating a full bowl of Cocoa Pebbles with milk at 5mm from the edge of the bowl, while driving 160 mph in an early 80s Porsche 930 with bilsteins / no power steering .... and not spilling any of it in your lap.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

MAC said:


> Do any brands of the brands of brake rotors available at rock auto or the major chains that have a decent anti-rust coating on the hat and inner vanes ?


I can't speak for specific brands, but I b ought coated rotors from GAP when I did my brake job this spring. THey offered them side by side with uncoated versions, though. THey don't last forever, but 4 months into it, they're just now starting to get brown specs. 

THey should say "coated" in the description since it's a feature.


----------



## Gitcha Sum (May 27, 2008)

ThreadBomber said:


> You could, sure.
> 
> Usually though, the best place for the sending unit is right before (engine side) the thermostat, as this is generally the hottest place.


A pic would probably help. I can throw it in the smaller of the 2 holes (send line to heater core) and not have clearance issue with the stat.


----------



## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

MAC said:


> Do any brands of the brands of brake rotors available at rock auto or the major chains that have a decent anti-rust coating on the hat and inner vanes ?


Try to find Zimmermann Coat Z, probably available for non euro cars too
http://www.otto-zimmermann.de/en/produkte/coat-z-beschichtete-bremsscheiben.html



deucestudios said:


> A pic would probably help. I can throw it in the smaller of the 2 holes (send line to heater core) and not have clearance issue with the stat.


That should be an ideal place for the sensor.

Sweet buildup too, can I interest you in a Superduty HP D60, Eaton HO72(better version of a GM 14bolt) and 12bolt H1 beadlocks?


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

What's SR5 all about? Did it arise from any particular meaning?


----------



## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

VDub2625 said:


> What's SR5 all about? Did it arise from any particular meaning?


IIRC, the name "SR5" was first used on the TE27 Corolla in 1972 to denote the new 5speed transmission. It has since been used for several performance models of Toyota, originally referred to as Levin in Japan


----------



## AeroWagon (Nov 2, 2009)

hognhominy said:


> I'll take a crack at this.
> 
> I would assume "awesome" is referring to the tone of the engine starting and the sound of the starter as it pushed each piston through its compression stroke.
> 
> ...



Thank you.




tankton said:


> I know on the McLaren F1, they deliberately cut out the starter for a rev or two. Gordon Murray noted the 60 degree V12 is too perfect at startup (something to do with firing order + just so many damn cylinders), and the deliberate tick makes it sound better. More theater.



Interesting.


----------



## J2G (Aug 9, 2012)

So, I know an engine or trans mount somewhere is effed on the Passat. How do I go about diagnosing which one is bad?



Think it's a trans mount, since it jerks severely shifting in and out of reverse.


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

J2G said:


> So, I know an engine or trans mount somewhere is effed on the Passat. How do I go about diagnosing which one is bad?
> 
> 
> 
> Think it's a trans mount, since it jerks severely shifting in and out of reverse.



have you taken a look at them yet?

sometimes, when they're really bad, you can visually see how worn they are and make your assesment.


----------



## karl_1052 (Feb 10, 2008)

How do I get my neighbour to wash my car for me?


----------



## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

karl_1052 said:


> How do I get my neighbour to wash my car for me?


Why he is washing it, yell across the hedge: "Do mine next." It's got to work for someone.


----------



## Aonarch (Dec 4, 2006)

A.Wilder said:


> My FIL traded his Hyundai Genesis v6 sedan in because he has a motorcycle trailer he pulls about twice a year about 1800 pounds fully loaded. He went to the hyundai dealer and was told not to put a hitch on it because the chassis can't handle it. The car will flex, making the windows smash or popout and void any warranty. Is there any truth to this claim?
> 
> Traded it for a chrysler sebring convertible, because if the genesis was too flexy... :screwy::laugh:


LMAO to all of that.

1800 lbs is fine. 

A Sebring vert??? Jesus H Christ.


----------



## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

Aonarch said:


> LMAO to all of that.
> 
> 1800 lbs is fine.
> 
> A Sebring vert??? Jesus H Christ.


It was a 200 vert, fwiw.


----------



## Aonarch (Dec 4, 2006)

A.Wilder said:


> It was a 200 vert, fwiw.


Is he going to tow with it?


----------



## 16vRocket (Jan 13, 2002)

Aonarch said:


> Is he going to tow with it?


200 vert owners manual. Go to page 387.

Gross trailer weight for both 2.4 and 3.6 is 1000lbs with a 100lb max tongue weight.


----------



## Unilateral Phase Detractor (Aug 23, 2005)

So the ABS is acting up on the Escape. Yesterday the ABS warning light illuminated, but today it didn't. However, on a short drive around my neighborhood, I could hear/feel the system activating constantly when I braked. Question is, should I try to drive it 7 miles to my preferred repair shop or have it towed?


----------



## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

[HR][/HR]


classicjetta said:


> So the ABS is acting up on the Escape. Yesterday the ABS warning light illuminated, but today it didn't. However, on a short drive around my neighborhood, I could hear/feel the system activating constantly when I braked. Question is, should I try to drive it 7 miles to my preferred repair shop or have it towed?



Was it activating under hard braking only, or under regular braking as well? If it were me, I'd drive it to the repair shop. Put your hazard lights on and keep a larger than normal following distance. :thumbup:


----------



## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

Aonarch said:


> Is he going to tow with it?


hitched his MC to it pretty much the day after he bought it. I estimate he's about 100-150 pounds over the 1000 limit. Aluminum trailer + harley-style MC. He has the V6 and says it drives fine.


----------



## Unilateral Phase Detractor (Aug 23, 2005)

sjt1985 said:


> [HR][/HR]
> 
> 
> Was it activating under hard braking only, or under regular braking as well? If it were me, I'd drive it to the repair shop. Put your hazard lights on and keep a larger than normal following distance. :thumbup:


Activating under regular/light parking lot speed brake applications. I have a roadside assistance from my insurance company but that's a hassle to deal with unless I really need to.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I don't think you'd have a problem. It'll kick in while you're braking but it won't drive funny or damage anything.


----------



## Unilateral Phase Detractor (Aug 23, 2005)

I wonder if there is a fuse I can pull to disable the ABS pump


----------



## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

Could I do without this small U shaped heat shield on my car without it causing any damage to other components. I can't imagine Mazda put it on for no reason but the damn thing is completely off. I think its to protect the fuel pump (black plastic piece on the right)











Thanks


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Does anyone have any clue what the black tab-like protrucions in the Ranger door jamb are? THey pull out like 1/4", and feel like they do something with the door lock but I am curious if they have a function.


----------



## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

classicjetta said:


> I wonder if there is a fuse I can pull to disable the ABS pump


Yeah, just yank the ABS fuse or relay. Sounds like you might have a bad wheel speed sensor. Have them scan the ECU and see what pops up.


----------



## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

VDub2625 said:


> Does anyone have any clue what the black tab-like protrucions in the Ranger door jamb are? THey pull out like 1/4", and feel like they do something with the door lock but I am curious if they have a function.


Maybe the sliding bracket that secures the lock cylinder to the door sheetmetal?


----------



## ncbrock (Sep 28, 2010)

When browsing random craigslist ads, usually on tacky or drag cars with auto transmissions, what does "2500 stall" or "3500 stall" mean? Never owned an automatic, really don't know much about them.


----------



## Wilford_Brimley (May 4, 2013)

ncbrock said:


> When browsing random craigslist ads, usually on tacky or drag cars with auto transmissions, what does "2500 stall" or "3500 stall" mean? Never owned an automatic, really don't know much about them.


This probably explains it best: http://www.bankspower.com/techarticles/show/10-understanding-stall-speed

The later portion of the article is more aimed at the diesel world. I know turbo drag cars use higher stalls in order to build boost at the line, but a high stall creates an immense amount of heat in the transmission when you're just driving around town normally. As with anything, it is all about compromise.


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## rynodyno312 (Aug 20, 2012)

ncbrock said:


> When browsing random craigslist ads, usually on tacky or drag cars with auto transmissions, what does "2500 stall" or "3500 stall" mean? Never owned an automatic, really don't know much about them.


It's the RPM at which the torque converter starts driving the driveshaft. A higher RPM stall converter will allow a car to be "launched" at that RPM every time--great for drag strip consistency, not so much for around town driveability (at least once you get up to the higher stall speeds--something like 2500rpm would probably be fine for a daily driver).

In terms of a manual transmission, it's the RPM at which the clutch is engaged.


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

This refers to the Stall rating of the torque converter in an automatic transmission.

Stall number is the RPM at which the TC prevents RPM increase without the rear wheels turning.

Generally a higher stall improves drag launches by allowing the engine to rev to (or shortly before) the peak torque output of the engine.



> What does a high stall converter do?
> 
> 
> I'll try to keep it short because it's an involved subject. Basically "stall" means when the torque converter "locks-up" under a load. With that, if you take a car with a 2,500RPM stall converter and you hold your foot on the brake hard, and hit the gas at the same time, (as if you were going to power brake), the "general" RPM in which the tires will break loose is at "about" 2,500RPM. If the converter was a 3,500RPM stall, then it would be at approximately 3,500 RPM in which it forces the tires to break loose. Keep in mind, if you put that same converter behind a nasty big block, in a car that has serious traction or is quite heavy, the torque of the engine will drive the stall speed up to a higher RPM, and an engine with less power will have the opposite effect and won't be able to stall the converter out as high. It's all relative to torque, vehicle weight, traction and rear gearing. It isn't an exact science as far as an exact stall RPM goes.
> ...


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## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

FWIW, a stall converter isn't like a depressed clutch or anything. I had a 5000 stall converter in a Mustang I used to drag race when I was younger. With a transbrake on at the line it would reach just about to 5000. Foot braking, it would get to about 4200. Driving around town you don't really notice a huge difference until you put your foot into it and it stalls up a little higher than it normally would. It's not like it's an on/off switch.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

cityjohn said:


> Maybe the sliding bracket that secures the lock cylinder to the door sheetmetal?


Could be, but it's odd that it's so exposed and visible. The lock seems to function normally in both positions.


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

VDub2625 said:


> Could be, but it's odd that it's so exposed and visible. The lock seems to function normally in both positions.


Got a picture?


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## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

TwoLitreVW said:


> Got a picture?


Yes, does it look like this?


----------



## Shmi (Mar 25, 2009)

When did mid-cycle 'refreshing' cars become a thing? Seems like everyone does it these days but I don't remember it always being a thing. Maybe it has been for a long time and I just didn't pay attention.


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## AHTOXA (Dec 2, 2007)

g-man_ae said:


> Why aren't "automatic" headlights wired to the wiper stalk, so that when you turn on the wipers, the headlights turn on as well?


Many are. In my Sonic, the headlights will come on after about 10 swipes of the wipers. This way they aren't coming on every time I spray my windshield, but do come on when it actually rains.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Shmi said:


> When did mid-cycle 'refreshing' cars become a thing? Seems like everyone does it these days but I don't remember it always being a thing. Maybe it has been for a long time and I just didn't pay attention.


Not new. Honda used to introduce new generations every four years, with a refresh on year three and a special edition on year four. Back in the day the special editions were based on the top-of-the-line trim, not a few features added to the midrange model. This is the first thing that came to mind; there are definitely earlier ones.

Example, 2nd-gen Accord which was around from '82-'85:

1983 Accord









1984 Accord


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## Grey Mouser (Oct 30, 2003)

This may have been asked (hell maybe I even asked it before?)

Why do some automatics have a shift pattern that's all zig-zaggy while others have one that's just front to rear?











vs


----------



## WASCALLY_09WABBIT (Jul 22, 2014)

Grey Mouser said:


>


Love the wood grain inlay.


----------



## Grey Mouser (Oct 30, 2003)

wascally_09wabbit said:


> love the wood grain inlay.


sir
plz


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Grey Mouser said:


> This may have been asked (hell maybe I even asked it before?)
> 
> Why do some automatics have a shift pattern that's all zig-zaggy while others have one that's just front to rear?




Aesthetics.


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## Grey Mouser (Oct 30, 2003)

TwoLitreVW said:


> Aesthetics.


There's no aesthetics in the zig zaggy one.


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## JeffIsLax (Mar 26, 2005)

Grey Mouser said:


> This may have been asked (hell maybe I even asked it before?)
> 
> Why do some automatics have a shift pattern that's all zig-zaggy while others have one that's just front to rear?


My guess is that they do it to provide a little more tactile response for selecting the right position, without looking. Going from park to reverse is pretty much straight down, and if it moves laterally you know that you've gone too far.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

No button-pressing is req'd with a zig-zag shifter (moving it to the side replaces the button press). 

Plus it gives you some tactile information so you can tell what's happening without having to look down at it. With a regular one, you might have to look down to see if it's in 3 or 2, but with a zig zag one, you can slap it sideways to go from 4th to 3rd, then pull back to drop to 2nd. But there's no way to accidentally shift to 1st without consciously pushing it the other way, then pulling down some more.

I find that they're all kind of assisted so you don't have to think about going from P to R or D or from Drive back to Park, but if you want to go to 3rd, 2nd or 1st, it requires more effort.


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## intonation (Oct 23, 2001)

JeffIsLax said:


> My guess is that they do it to provide a little more tactile response for selecting the right position, without looking. Going from park to reverse is pretty much straight down, and if it moves laterally you know that you've gone too far.












Because, Ferrari.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Grey Mouser said:


> There's no aesthetics in the zig zaggy one.


No button mechanism on the lever.

So, yes, aesthetics.


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## corradokreep (Jul 23, 2004)

Why have cars gone from timing chains (my Corrado, bless it's heart) to timing belts (my Audi )? Chains don't break (easily), chains break things. Chains also don't require tensioners, and they're relatively easy to change (don't have to worry about things being "one rib off", as all you have to do is count the (relatively few) number of links between gears and due to the lack of a need for tensioners, you don't have to worry about things moving when you tension it. 

I have been told recently that things are starting to move back toward chains, is this true? I'd imagine most auto makers make their cars to be beat on by the average consumer. Timing chains generally can take more abuse and don't have to be changed as often.


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## WASCALLY_09WABBIT (Jul 22, 2014)

corradokreep said:


> Why have cars gone from timing chains (my Corrado, bless it's heart) to timing belts (my Audi )? Chains don't break (easily), chains break things. Chains also don't require tensioners, and they're *relatively easy to change* (don't have to worry about things being "one rib off", as all you have to do is count the (relatively few) number of links between gears and due to the lack of a need for tensioners, you don't have to worry about things moving when you tension it.
> 
> I have been told recently that things are starting to move back toward chains, is this true? I'd imagine most auto makers make their cars to be beat on by the average consumer. Timing chains generally can take more abuse and don't have to be changed as often.


----------



## Grey Mouser (Oct 30, 2003)

TwoLitreVW said:


> No button mechanism on the lever.
> 
> So, yes, aesthetics.



You don't see the button. So no, not aesthetics.


----------



## corradokreep (Jul 23, 2004)

WASCALLY_09WABBIT said:


>


Alignment wise. Don't have to worry about things slightly turning etc. Sure, they're a ***** to get to.  But if you only have to change it once or twice over the life of the car, is that an issue?


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

intonation said:


> Because, Ferrari.


I drive a 355 a few times a month and that stupid ass ashtray door keeps flying open and won't stay shut.

The more you know.


----------



## millerlite3421 (Nov 24, 2011)

corradokreep said:


> Why have cars gone from timing chains (my Corrado, bless it's heart) to timing belts (my Audi )? Chains don't break (easily), chains break things. Chains also don't require tensioners, and they're relatively easy to change (don't have to worry about things being "one rib off", as all you have to do is count the (relatively few) number of links between gears and due to the lack of a need for tensioners, you don't have to worry about things moving when you tension it.
> 
> I have been told recently that things are starting to move back toward chains, is this true? I'd imagine most auto makers make their cars to be beat on by the average consumer. Timing chains generally can take more abuse and don't have to be changed as often.


Belts:

Normal:
Quieter operation
Weaker than Chains, higher chance of breakage/damage.
Made of elastomeric material which could degrade if comes into contact with petroleum products or other chemicals.
Chosen by car manufacturers due to economical reasons.

Worn/Maintenance:
Replace @ every ~40k miles or so (very rough estimate)
Belts stretch and loosen and cause whining noise before breakage (especially when the car is cold). This is a good indicator of a failing belt and will let you know that you need to service your belts.
Easier to replace. Less time/labor charges. Tends to be less difficult. Usually manufacturers will design cars (with timing belts) to be able to service and replace the belts easily because belts inherently fail more easily and more often.
Cheap parts



Chains:

Normal:
Much Stronger, Less chance of breakage/damage.
Chains are somewhat known to be able to last the entire life of the car.

Worn/Maintenance:
Replace when rebuilding or >100k miles (very rough estimate)
Harder to tell when the chain needs to be replaced. Will tend to start stretching, but unless severely stretched/damaged, the chain should not cause severe issues with the timing because the teeth will still keep the chain in the right relative location. A worn chain could start rattling. A severely stretched chain could jump teeth and you will have timing issues at that point and if you have a interference type engine, you risk damaging or breaking your valves.
Requires replacing/servicing the chain tensioner relatively often
Harder to replace. More time/labor charges. Tends to be more difficult. Chains aren't expected to break or require as much servicing, so manufacturers tend to not put as much priority on making it easy to access/service.
More expensive parts.

And chains do still require tentioners


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## Grey Mouser (Oct 30, 2003)

millerlite3421 said:


> Belts:
> 
> 
> Worn/Maintenance:
> Replace @ every ~40k miles or so (very rough estimate)


40K on what planet? Most cars call for 105K belt changes.


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## intonation (Oct 23, 2001)

TooFitToQuit said:


> I drive a 355 a few times a month and that stupid ass ashtray door keeps flying open and won't stay shut.
> 
> The more you know.












Nice one :beer:


----------



## Cown3d (Jul 30, 2009)

corradokreep said:


> Why have cars gone from timing chains (my Corrado, bless it's heart) to timing belts (my Audi )? Chains don't break (easily), chains break things. Chains also don't require tensioners, and they're relatively easy to change (don't have to worry about things being "one rib off", as all you have to do is count the (relatively few) number of links between gears and due to the lack of a need for tensioners, you don't have to worry about things moving when you tension it.
> 
> I have been told recently that things are starting to move back toward chains, is this true? I'd imagine most auto makers make their cars to be beat on by the average consumer. Timing chains generally can take more abuse and don't have to be changed as often.


mostly NVH


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## millerlite3421 (Nov 24, 2011)

Grey Mouser said:


> 40K on what planet? Most cars call for 105K belt changes.


Not my information. 

VW calls for 100k intervals but most change them at 60-70k.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

I feel like timing belts have become much less common, with very few belts being on current engines. There are some new designs using belts, like the Fiesta 1.0T, but it is a lifetime belt in an oil bath (spec'd for 150k miles, I believe). Growing up, almost every common OHC 4-cylinder engine (aside from the Toyota 22R) had a belt that had to be changed every 60k miles or less for several hundred bucks.

All current 4-cylinder Hondas use chains (V6s are getting on in years and still use belts) as do all Toyotas with the exception of some V8s based on Lexus designs (since a belt is smoother/quieter). Subaru is migrating to them, and, hell, even the 3-cylinder in our Mirage has a chain.



millerlite3421 said:


> Not my information.
> 
> VW calls for 100k intervals but most change them at 60-70k.


My propensity for procrastination always depended on if the engine was an interference or non-interference design (valves don't contact pistons if the belt snaps). Old 1.9-liter Escort? Drive it 'til it snaps. Honda B- D- F- or H-series? Change it on time, and get a valve adjustment while you're in there!


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## 16Vpassat (Nov 13, 2001)

corradokreep said:


> Why have cars gone from timing chains (my Corrado, bless it's heart) to timing belts (my Audi )? Chains don't break (easily), chains break things. Chains also don't require tensioners, and they're relatively easy to change (don't have to worry about things being "one rib off", as all you have to do is count the (relatively few) number of links between gears and due to the lack of a need for tensioners, you don't have to worry about things moving when you tension it.
> 
> I have been told recently that things are starting to move back toward chains, is this true? I'd imagine most auto makers make their cars to be beat on by the average consumer. Timing chains generally can take more abuse and don't have to be changed as often.


*EDIT* Should have hit refresh - already answered in posts above


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## corradokreep (Jul 23, 2004)

Re: Chains vs. Belts

Ah, didn't think of different engine geometries. A chain on any type of V shaped engine would be very long (and probably noisy) indeed.

As for tensioners, yes they do but aren't they just plastic parts that need adjusted back and forth? (Aka they're very simple, unlike expensive pulley tensioners for belts.)

To me it just seems like a no brainer. Especially for interference engines. (Like my audi.)

By the time you have to open the engine up to service the chains it's time to service something else in there anyway.


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## 2Cor (Feb 18, 2003)

Car accident/physics question:

A vehicle is approaching you from the rear while you are stopped. It is inevitably going to hit you at 30+ mph. Is it better to release the brakes so that your vehicle hits the cars in front of you and dissipates more force?


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## Unilateral Phase Detractor (Aug 23, 2005)

IJM said:


> Yeah, just yank the ABS fuse or relay. Sounds like you might have a bad wheel speed sensor. Have them scan the ECU and see what pops up.


Late follow up, but thanks for the advice. I did just that and it was a broken ABS tone ring causing the problem. $250 later it's fixed.


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## CruznMalibu (Mar 11, 2010)

Chains vs. Belts is more about saving weight.


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## Grey Mouser (Oct 30, 2003)

CruznMalibu said:


> Chains vs. Belts is more about saving weight.


I'd think it'd be more about removing complexity or cost than weight.


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## kevin splits (Aug 23, 2010)

Why do countries drive on different sides of the road? And cars lhd or rhd accordingly, why isn't their a uniform layout?


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## Wilford_Brimley (May 4, 2013)

kevin splits said:


> Why do countries drive on different sides of the road? And cars lhd or rhd accordingly, why isn't their a uniform layout?



During the horse and buggy days, the brits used swords to protect themselves against oncoming threats. Being that most people were right handed, they would be on the right side, so they could draw their sword and defend themselves accordingly. By the time there were dirt roads in the US, they had muskets. Since most were right handed, they sat on the left side, so they could shoot onto the oncoming threat, and not have to worry about covering their horse in gunpowder.

The area of the world that have the RHD and LHD correlate to what was colonized by the UK, and what was not.


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## kevin splits (Aug 23, 2010)

Wilford_Brimley said:


> During the horse and buggy days, the brits used swords to protect themselves against oncoming threats. Being that most people were right handed, they would be on the right side, so they could draw their sword and defend themselves accordingly. By the time there were dirt roads in the US, they had muskets. Since most were right handed, they sat on the left side, so they could shoot onto the oncoming threat, and not have to worry about covering their horse in gunpowder.
> 
> The area of the world that have the RHD and LHD correlate to what was colonized by the UK, and what was not.


Awesome answer.


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## kevin splits (Aug 23, 2010)

So the Brits would be sitting on the right side of the buggy with the buggy on the left side of the road c using the brush line as left side cover guarding the right side by sword.


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## VWVan (Feb 17, 2000)

Are front rotors and brake pads easy enough to replace? I have replaced pads on the rear, but the rotors are fine. On the front the rotors are warped so they need turning or replacing. If I do it myself it'll be less than half then taking it to a shop. Do I need to bleed the brakes or is leaving the resevoir cap off during the replacement good enough?


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## Nealric (Feb 16, 2013)

VWVan said:


> Are front rotors and brake pads easy enough to replace? I have replaced pads on the rear, but the rotors are fine. On the front the rotors are warped so they need turning or replacing. If I do it myself it'll be less than half then taking it to a shop. Do I need to bleed the brakes or is leaving the resevoir cap off during the replacement good enough?


Pretty darn simple. No need to bleed. You just need a big C-clamp (or better yet, a special caliper tool) to open the caliper wide enough for the new pads to clear the new rotor. However, you do want to replace brake fluid at regular intervals.


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## corradokreep (Jul 23, 2004)

Nealric said:


> Pretty darn simple. No need to bleed. You just need a big C-clamp (or better yet, a special caliper tool) to open the caliper wide enough for the new pads to clear the new rotor. However, you do want to replace brake fluid at regular intervals.


Agreed, rotors are really easy when you're doing the brakes. It's only one more bolt/screw (if you can pull the rotor out from around the caliper.) Honestly you should be taking the rear part of the caliper off anyway to file the surfaces flat so the pads ride nice. 

A large C-clamp works perfectly fine for pushing the piston back.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Should note for anyone else reading this, rear calipers sometimes need a special retraction tool, which you can rent at AutoZone for a refundable deposit. 

Be careful, if anyone topped up the brake fluid while these pads were installed, it might overflow. Take the cap off the reservoir and watch it.


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## corradokreep (Jul 23, 2004)

VDub2625 said:


> Should note for anyone else reading this, rear calipers sometimes need a special retraction tool, which you can rent at AutoZone for a refundable deposit.
> 
> Be careful, if anyone topped up the brake fluid while these pads were installed, it might overflow. Take the cap off the reservoir and watch it.


Rentable? Really? The tool itself is only ~$5. (For the ones that look like a cube, and have different configurations on every side.) I actually had to use a c-clamp to push against this while I turned it with a screwdriver. Turning it alone had no affect on piston position. But it works fine for my old audi and corrado.


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## Grey Mouser (Oct 30, 2003)

corradokreep said:


> Rentable? Really? The tool itself is only ~$5. (For the ones that look like a cube, and have different configurations on every side.) I actually had to use a c-clamp to push against this while I turned it with a screwdriver. Turning it alone had no affect on piston position. But it works fine for my old audi and corrado.


That's not the tool autozone rents you. At least it wasn't last time I did it.

It was like this:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Yes, that red box tool is EXTRMELY useful, and I haven't been able to justify purchasing one since it's free to rent 

I did manage, once, to get it to turn with pliers and a c clamp, but that tool made it beyond easy to do.


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## VWestlife (Sep 29, 2004)

Why the hell doesn't Subaru have retained accessory power on their power windows? :screwy: My '97 VW Passat gives you 15 minutes of retained accessory power on all 4 windows. Most other cars give you a bare minimum of about 30 seconds on the driver's window only. Subaru gives you nothing -- the key needs to be in the ON position to operate the power windows at all.


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## VWVan (Feb 17, 2000)

Nealric said:


> Pretty darn simple. No need to bleed. You just need a big C-clamp (or better yet, a special caliper tool) to open the caliper wide enough for the new pads to clear the new rotor. However, you do want to replace brake fluid at regular intervals.


Thanks I'm just being paranoid. With the rears I just used needle nose pliers and turned the caliper in:laugh:

With the brake fluid I'd just get a shop to change it.


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## Aonarch (Dec 4, 2006)

Also spray the hub with PB blaster. 

An easy was to get brake rotors off is to use an impact and screw a nut/ lug. Also a big ****ing hammer.


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

VWestlife said:


> Why the hell doesn't Subaru have retained accessory power on their power windows? :screwy: My '97 VW Passat gives you 15 minutes of retained accessory power on all 4 windows. Most other cars give you a bare minimum of about 30 seconds on the driver's window only. Subaru gives you nothing -- the key needs to be in the ON position to operate the power windows at all.


They seem obsessed with you not killing your battery... yet there is no auto-off if you leave your dome light on. :banghead:

No retained accessory power.
No always-on accessory outlets.
No auto locking/unlocking

I've managed a quick mod to allow the accessory outlet in the dash to be always on... I'm working figuring out the others...


----------



## BTM (Feb 20, 2007)

So I found an oil sample I meant to send into blackstone for analysis, it's been sitting in my car for like 2 months. Is there any reason if I sent it in now, the analysis would be skewed or different or affected for any reason? Logically I think no, but IDK


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

BTM said:


> So I found an oil sample I meant to send into blackstone for analysis, it's been sitting in my car for like 2 months. Is there any reason if I sent it in now, the analysis would be skewed or different or affected for any reason? Logically I think no, but IDK


Nah, if anything the particulates will settle but they'll shake it up like house paint anyways.


----------



## koolaidvr6 (Oct 9, 2006)

I recently moved from Colorado to Georgia and have noticed a difference in vacuum on my boost gauge. In Colorado at idle it was usually about 18hg while in Georgia it is at 22hg. I assume that it has to do with the vast difference in altitude (6000ft vs 45ft) but what are the specifics? Also do ECU's recognize the differences in altitude and adjust to the change, if in fact any adjustments are needed for that sort of thing?


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## J2G (Aug 9, 2012)

Well the ECU gets readings from your MAF sensor on the intake and O2 sensor on the exhaust, which I'm sure are affected by the change in air density.




I have a question about front struts vs double wishbones alignment. Is there any good reason to run front camber with double wishbones? How is camber even adjusted?


----------



## 1.8TRabbit (Nov 15, 2004)

When you get your cars' emissions and safety tests done and one test fails (in my case safety), does that failed message go into a State wide database for all safety and emissions companies to see? So if I were to take it to another shop to see if they think the same thing needs to be fixed, they will see the same failed test? Or would they not have any idea unless I mention something about the other shop? Thanks. :thumbup:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Highly dependent on your state. Where are you from?


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## rpmk4 (Jan 24, 2008)

Grey Mouser said:


> That's not the tool autozone rents you. At least it wasn't last time I did it.
> 
> It was like this:


As little force and intervals that i use this tool, I bought one from Harbor Freight. I think it was less than $30. Now i don't have to hassle with a store on rental/borrowing.


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## Giovanni (May 13, 2000)

Is the new WRX available in Japan in hatchback form or are they just making it in a sedan for all markets? 

Does anyone else not like the new format at Craig's List for the car listings?


----------



## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

OK here's a seatbelt question.

Anyone know whether the bright red release button is required by some regulation? Or can you market a car with any color buckle?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

GMs used to have a chrome logo button. Don't know if Smyrna changed since the mid 80s.


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## compy222 (Apr 8, 2005)

1.8TRabbit said:


> When you get your cars' emissions and safety tests done and one test fails (in my case safety), does that failed message go into a State wide database for all safety and emissions companies to see? So if I were to take it to another shop to see if they think the same thing needs to be fixed, they will see the same failed test? Or would they not have any idea unless I mention something about the other shop? Thanks. :thumbup:


i doubt that your states IT systems are that good - or just find a shop you can be "friends" with. regardless...why did it fail?


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## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

What is a catch can and how does it work? Is there any benefit to having one on an N/A engine?


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

RacerrRex said:


> What is a catch can and how does it work? Is there any benefit to having one on an N/A engine?


The can itself allows oil vapor inside an engine to condense and collect as a liquid. The "can" acts as a reservoir for the now liquid oil. It can function in addition to a cars PCV system (meant to recirculate the vapor into the intake stream to be burned, lowering emissions) or in place of the system and vented to atmosphere.










If the engine is Direct injected, preventing the recirculation can slow if not prevent carbon buildup in intake tract










In a conventionally injected (or carbureted) engine the fuel flowing through the intake and across the intake valve may help wash the carbon into the combustion chamber.










An N/A engine may benefit from a catch can in several ways, the can may prevent the vapor from condensing in the intake and lowering power output, less vapor means less buildup over time, both in the intake and combustion chamber. Excess carbon can absorb fuel in the combustion chamber causing a leaner A/F.










Pan E-vac systems can help lower crankcase pressures, which in turn may help improve ring sealing in engines with low tension rings. This can be done with or without a catch can, and involves mounting a venturi in the exhaust stream and plumbing all breather connections to it. Similar to the suction effect provided by the scavenger stages of a dry sump oil pump











Several manufacturers use a "catch can" as part of their PCV system,

Volvo:










BMW: (Not exactly a tank but serves the same function, Part 4 allows liquid oil to drain back into the crankcase, eliminating the need for a "can")


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

hognhominy said:


> Awesome post is ....


Awesome

I knew the point in general before but now I really understand :thumbup: nice write up !


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## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

Thank you! Best answer ive gotten in this thread haha


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## J2G (Aug 9, 2012)

Would a factory "catch can" also be commonly known as an evap canister?

_Posted via *Topify* on Android_


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

J2G said:


> Would a factory "catch can" also be commonly known as an evap canister?
> 
> _Posted via *Topify* on Android_


I don't believe EVAP canister is for oil systems.. The only ones I have ever worked with are for fuel tank vapors. And the tank heats up and cools down, and as the pump sucks out gas, vapors are created under pressure or vacuum that need to be sucked into of the engine, or filter through charcoal to the atmosphere. Oil vapors are similar, except they only get sucked into the engine (since they only happen when it's running), and do not dissipate to atmosphere in factory systems.


----------



## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

J2G said:


> Would a factory "catch can" also be commonly known as an evap canister?





VDub2625 said:


> I don't believe EVAP canister is for oil systems.. The only ones I have ever worked with are for fuel tank vapors. And the tank heats up and cools down, and as the pump sucks out gas, vapors are created under pressure or vacuum that need to be sucked into of the engine, or filter through charcoal to the atmosphere. Oil vapors are similar, except they only get sucked into the engine (since they only happen when it's running), and do not dissipate to atmosphere in factory systems.


EVAP = Evaporative Emissions = Hydrocarbon pollution caused by unburned fuel evaporating, Pre 1970's ~10%(IIRC) of all smog forming pollution was caused by fuel just evaporating.

The charcoal canister is a temporary holding area for fuel vapors, when the engine is running, it is slowly vented into the intake.



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_emissions_control#Evaporative_emissions_control said:


> Evaporative emissions are the result of gasoline vapors escaping from the vehicle's fuel system. Since 1971, all U.S. vehicles have had fully sealed fuel systems that do not vent directly to the atmosphere; mandates for systems of this type appeared contemporaneously in other jurisdictions. In a typical system, vapors from the fuel tank and carburetor bowl vent (on carbureted vehicles) are ducted to canisters containing activated carbon. The vapors are adsorbed within the canister, and during certain engine operational modes fresh air is drawn through the canister, pulling the vapor into the engine, where it burns.



And thanks, my job used to consist of explaining malfunctions in automotive systems to the lowest form of human life (rich housewives), but now I just drink :beer::beer:


----------



## GTIVR6MK4 (Sep 14, 2000)

*whats the difference between a motometer cluster and a VDO cluster? and how come cars of the same year have VDO and some motometers? i searched google but couldnt find the answer im looking for. 
*

Reason is, i asked a vendor to do work on a cluster and they were asking whether its a motometer or VDO


----------



## Ed52 (May 21, 2001)

*Towing CUV*

I saw a recent small Ford CUV being towed with the front wheels up. They were spinning as fast as the rears. Is there any way to disable the front drive and will towing front wheels up cause damage. I was following on the Hwy for 1/2 an hour.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

GTIVR6MK4 said:


> *whats the difference between a motometer cluster and a VDO cluster? and how come cars of the same year have VDO and some motometers? i searched google but couldnt find the answer im looking for.
> *
> 
> Reason is, i asked a vendor to do work on a cluster and they were asking whether its a motometer or VDO


they're different manufacturers.

as a result, they likely have different parts/sources and would likely not have interchangeable components. parts for one manufacturer may be more readily available/cheaper than the other, which is why it's important for the vendor to know which one they'll be working with.

there's different reasons why the same manufacturer may use different manufacturers for the same part. one of these is if the vehicle has more than one manufacturing plant globally, and it makes more sense to use 2 different vendors/manufacturers to supply each of those manufacturing/assembly plants. it's generally a cost-cutting measure when it comes to things like that.

for example, cars assembled in europe may use bits manufactured in china or india, whereas cars assembled in america may used parts assembled in mexico or brazil. same cars, different bits.


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## J2G (Aug 9, 2012)

Ed52 said:


> I saw a recent small Ford CUV being towed with the front wheels up. They were spinning as fast as the rears. Is there any way to disable the front drive and will towing front wheels up cause damage. I was following on the Hwy for 1/2 an hour.


Was it on a sling type truck?? 

Usually there should be a dolly to lift the ground wheels up so they don't spin. Otherwise, the driveshaft should have been removed/unbolted.

_Posted via *Topify* on Android_


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## Giovanni (May 13, 2000)

Am I gonna regret buying a b5 a4 w/a 6 cylinder because it has an automatic transmission? 
It is low miles, one owner, very clean, priced right and has a ton of maintenance records, but a car like this should be a stick, no?


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

GTIVR6MK4 said:


> *whats the difference between a motometer cluster and a VDO cluster? and how come cars of the same year have VDO and some motometers? i searched google but couldnt find the answer im looking for.
> *
> 
> Reason is, i asked a vendor to do work on a cluster and they were asking whether its a motometer or VDO


 It's easy enough to tell. It usually says somewhere on the face of the cluster. 
Worst case, you need to take it out and look at its backside. But, it _will_ say, somewhere, who made it.


----------



## ncbrock (Sep 28, 2010)

Not really a car per say... but what is the advantage of the single wide tire on 18 wheelers (or 10 in this case) vs a true dually setup? Easier on maintenance?


----------



## Aw614 (May 9, 2001)

Question, I did an oil change and spilled some oil (Around 1/2 a qt) when I was pouring the oil on the funnel, how long does the oil take to burn off? I my transmission area soaked in oil and slightly dripping despite driving an additional 20 miles after the oil change.

Im trying to determine if I didn't lube the oil filter housing enough or if the dripping is coming from the spill. Have newspapers under the car after cleaning the transmission to see where its coming from


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I'd just wash it off if you're that convened about it.


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

ncbrock said:


> Not really a car per say... but what is the advantage of the single wide tire on 18 wheelers (or 10 in this case) vs a true dually setup? Easier on maintenance?


3-8% better fuel economy, doesn't seem like much but at 5mpg and millions of miles, it adds up.
1000 pounds of weight savings vs Steel Duals

more:
http://www.bridgestonetrucktires.com/us_eng/real/magazines/04v9iss2/ra5.asp


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## justin717 (Aug 18, 2006)

hognhominy said:


> 3-8% better fuel economy, doesn't seem like much but at 5mpg and millions of miles, it adds up.
> 1000 pounds of weight savings vs Steel Duals
> 
> more:
> http://www.bridgestonetrucktires.com/us_eng/real/magazines/04v9iss2/ra5.asp


AKA "Super Singles." Total Weight saving move. You will see these on large sleeper trucks with long frames. They also need to save the weight for axle loading regulations. The singles also use exclusively Aluminum wheels. The tires are usually $1000+ each.


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## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

Ok  If a jet powered dragster can get up to 350 mph in less than 4 seconds, WHY does it take 5 hours to get from Cleveland to LA in a jet powered plane?  Should we build multi level drag strips to popular cities and just take some kind of dragster transport thing?  I mean, we are living the future, the 2000+ but we may as well take a wagon train on any trip, it takes about as long. :facepalm:


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## Chockomon (Aug 20, 2005)

82Turbo930 said:


> Ok  If a jet powered dragster can get up to 350 mph in less than 4 seconds, WHY does it take 5 hours to get from Cleveland to LA in a jet powered plane?  Should we build multi level drag strips to popular cities and just take some kind of dragster transport thing?  I mean, we are living the future, the 2000+ but we may as well take a wagon train on any trip, it takes about as long. :facepalm:


Because Cleveland and LA are about 2500 miles apart...A commercial jet flies at ~550mph...2500/550 = 4.5 hours + take off/landing/taxiing.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

82Turbo930 said:


> Ok  If a jet powered dragster can get up to 350 mph in less than 4 seconds, WHY does it take 5 hours to get from Cleveland to LA in a jet powered plane?  Should we build multi level drag strips to popular cities and just take some kind of dragster transport thing?  I mean, we are living the future, the 2000+ but we may as well take a wagon train on any trip, it takes about as long. :facepalm:





Chockomon said:


> Because Cleveland and LA are about 2500 miles apart...A commercial jet flies at ~550mph...2500/550 = 4.5 hours + take off/landing/taxiing.


This.

just because you can get up to speed in a short amount of time, doesn't mean you're going to cover thousands of miles of distance in seconds. you still have to cover thousands of miles of distance.

additionally, as stated above, a commercial jet travels at a higher rate of speed than your example; doesn't change the fact you've still got to go 2,500 miles.


did you confuse speed achieved with distance covered?

:sly:


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## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

TwoLitreVW said:


> This.
> 
> just because you can get up to speed in a short amount of time, doesn't mean you're going to cover thousands of miles of distance in seconds. you still have to cover thousands of miles of distance.
> 
> ...


I was told there would be no math.


----------



## J2G (Aug 9, 2012)

Why are double wishbone front suspensions still popular on pickup trucks, when most passenger cars have deemed them too complicated?


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

J2G said:


> Why are double wishbone front suspensions still popular on pickup trucks, when most passenger cars have deemed them too complicated?


most passenger cars are now FWD, and will generally opt for a simpler, lighter, easier to service macpherson strut style suspension. this style also saves a lot of room, and offers better packaging on FWD setups.

the double wishbone offers more "tunability", and as a result, is ideal for an application where you might need to work out various load conditions and types of suspension travel under different kinds of load. trucks generally are designed to handle not just the vehicle's weight, but an additional load that would then change how the vehicle behaves; a double wishbone allows the engineers to work out pretty much any of the expected behaviors you might see when a load shifts forward or back, side to side, how much camber is affected under different load situations (etc), and overall gives them more ways to play with the variables thrown at the application.

in a truck, you've got the room available for a setup like that, and the flexibility of the design makes it a good fit, while not being as complicated as a multi-link, but far sturdier and flexible than a macpherson strut style of setup.


----------



## nobbyv (May 18, 2001)

A bit off topic, but they are building a new highway bridge over the road I take to get to my lunch spot every day. The support pillars are poured concrete. However, I noticed that the "scalloped" texture that the pillars have was NOT done when the concrete was poured using some sort of mold or stamp: there was actually a guy with a hammer and chisel, manually removing small chunks of the concrete to give it that look. It was a small bridge, but it still must have taken him forever. Why do they do this? Just for aesthetics? I'd think, in addition to taking a long time (and costing a lot of $$$ unnecessarily) that this would also make the pillars hardy to clean graffiti off of.


----------



## geofftii2002 (Nov 6, 2001)

Can anyone explain to me how a Jake Brake works in simpleton terms? I've tried to grasp it over and over and boy, I can't seem to wrap my simple little mind around it.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

nobbyv said:


> A bit off topic, but they are building a new highway bridge over the road I take to get to my lunch spot every day. The support pillars are poured concrete. However, I noticed that the "scalloped" texture that the pillars have was NOT done when the concrete was poured using some sort of mold or stamp: there was actually a guy with a hammer and chisel, manually removing small chunks of the concrete to give it that look. It was a small bridge, but it still must have taken him forever. Why do they do this? Just for aesthetics? I'd think, in addition to taking a long time (and costing a lot of $$$ unnecessarily) that this would also make the pillars hardy to clean graffiti off of.


got a picture?


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

geofftii2002 said:


> Can anyone explain to me how a Jake Brake works in simpleton terms? I've tried to grasp it over and over and boy, I can't seem to wrap my simple little mind around it.


diesel engines don't have a throttle butterfly (with few exceptions), so that means that air constantly flows through the intake tract, even when you lift off the throttle.

that means that the air that enters the engine gets compressed (as normal during a compression cycle), the energy of that compression gets sent back through the crank, then gets released via the exhaust cycle.

a jake brake actuates the exhaust valve at the very end of the compression cycle so that all of the energy gets sent out the exhaust instead of back through the engine's crank.

as a result, you've got air getting sucked into the chamber, being compressed (effectively "braking"), and then released at the top of the compression cycle. 


how's that for ya?

edit: there's some awesomely bad 1980s videos on youtube if you REALLY want simple.


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## Lucian1988 (Mar 25, 2009)

geofftii2002 said:


> Can anyone explain to me how a Jake Brake works in simpleton terms? I've tried to grasp it over and over and boy, I can't seem to wrap my simple little mind around it.


its basically slowing down your speed, using cylinder compression. it turns a compression producing engine into a compression absorbing engine. 

this is pretty good:



> A “Jake Brake” is an engine compression release brake used especially for steep hill downgrades. The Jake Brake opens the exhaust valves when the piston is near top dead center (where ignition normally occurs). On the upstroke, the piston compresses the air in the cylinder to 1/15th its original volume, which creates drag on the engine. The Jacobs Engine Brake then releases the compressed air and the energy stored in it before it can push back on the piston during the down stroke. The Jake Brake turns a power producing engine into a power absorbing air compressor and in turn, causes the truck to slow down. Inside of the truck, the driver can choose how many cylinders to activate; the more cylinders activated, the more slowing of the truck.


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## tip (Aug 8, 2008)

geofftii2002 said:


> Can anyone explain to me how a Jake Brake works in simpleton terms? I've tried to grasp it over and over and boy, I can't seem to wrap my simple little mind around it.


I'll give it a go:

On a petrol engine, simply closing the throttle body - which cuts off air supply - causes engine braking. The engine is now working against engine vacuum (wanting to suck air but not having an open throttle body as a source).

Since a diesel doesn't have a throttle body, the crank is still absorbing and transmitting "power" on deceleration. Imagine going down a big hill with a massive crankshaft still "under power". With a jake brake, the exhaust valves are opened after the compression stroke to release the compressed gases and thus avoiding transmitting power to the crankshaft. The engine is now working against engine compression (which is very high compared to a petrol engine), which slows or "brakes" the engine. And it also makes a bad ass sound 

*edit - someone beat me to it


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## nobbyv (May 18, 2001)

TwoLitreVW said:


> got a picture?


Did a Google image search, but can't find what I'm seeing. I just drove by the bridge again, but didn't snap a pic. I'll get one tomorrow.


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## Beanboy (Aug 27, 2004)

How do hybrid/electric car regen brakes handle ice? I know some models can have fairly aggressive regen settings, and was wondering what would happen on a very low traction surface. Would they cut-out and let the friction brakes combined with ABS to come to a stop? Could you get a set of tires to slide if they don't cut out? Haven't driven a hybrid on ice, so haven't had the chance to give it try myself.

-B


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## Techun (Dec 27, 2006)

Beanboy said:


> How do hybrid/electric car regen brakes handle ice? I know some models can have fairly aggressive regen settings, and was wondering what would happen on a very low traction surface. Would they cut-out and let the friction brakes combined with ABS to come to a stop? Could you get a set of tires to slide if they don't cut out? Haven't driven a hybrid on ice, so haven't had the chance to give it try myself.
> 
> -B


The braking force is decided by your foot, and varies between friction and regen based on manufacturer programming. If slippage is noticed, force will be dialed back. How they decide to do that will vary. I would ASSUME if ABS kicks in, they cut out regen and just brake like a normal car. :wave:


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## scottybones (Jan 5, 2008)

What's the best way to clean off oil and/or finger residue from fog light and headlight bulbs? 

A tissue? Rubbing alcohol? Just buy new bulbs?


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

scottybones said:


> What's the best way to clean off oil and/or finger residue from fog light and headlight bulbs?
> 
> A tissue? Rubbing alcohol? Just buy new bulbs?


I've been in the commercial lighting business for 40 years and had to deal with lots of quartz lamp problems. The common practice is to use cotton swabs and alcohol to remove any oils left by handling. The filament did always seem to fail wherever there was a fingerprint. 

I don't think automotive lamps get hot enough to worry about, but I could be wrong.


----------



## VWmk3GTI (May 4, 2013)

I've owned my Mk3 for a year now,and I can't for the life of me figure out how to open the rear hatch without using the button on the center console


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## HaterSlayer (Oct 19, 2007)

barry2952 said:


> I've been in the commercial lighting business for 40 years and had to deal with lots of quartz lamp problems. The common practice is to use cotton swabs and alcohol to remove any oils left by handling. The filament did always seem to fail wherever there was a fingerprint.
> 
> I don't think automotive lamps get hot enough to worry about, but I could be wrong.


They do. I was messing around with one on my lap. It burned through my sweat pants in about 2 seconds. I felt my leg get hot and looked down and moved the bulb. The cotton or whatever was melted on to the bulb.


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

VWmk3GTI said:


> I've owned my Mk3 for a year now,and I can't for the life of me figure out how to open the rear hatch without using the button on the center console


Assuming it is in the unlocked position, Push on the lock cylinder


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

VWmk3GTI said:


> I've owned my Mk3 for a year now,and I can't for the life of me figure out how to open the rear hatch without using the button on the center console





hognhominy said:


> Assuming it is in the unlocked position, Push on the lock cylinder


Yes, key vertical does one thing, key horizontal does another. I forget which is which (they changed it betwen Mk2 and Mk3 I think, in Mk2 horizontal was unlocked, vertical was locked). 

Also, I am not sure if Mk3 USA locks did the 3-position thing with power locks like mk2 did, where there's a third position to turn the key (diagonal one way or another), which allows you to push the lock button to open the trunk while it's locked (key stays in), if the car's already locked up. That might be a vacuum trunk lock thing only (which Mk2s and European Mk3s had, while we had the electric popper and a normal 2 position lock, I think). I prefer that system since you can make it so the trunk lock changes with the car, or stays locked until you use the key (in which case you use the third position to open it). The only thing that sucked about that is the ball bearing went in my Jetta, so the key turned past the "diagonal" position and became horizontal the OTHER way, meaning it worked exactly OPPOSITE of the door locks (trunk open when doors locked, trunk locked when doors open). Ah, German engineering. 

I'm going off memory here, I have a Mk3.5 which has a Mk4 trunk lock which works completely differently than either of those


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

My mk2 hatch had two horizontal positions in addition to the vertical. See if your key will turn all the way over


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

thegave said:


> My mk2 hatch had two horizontal positions in addition to the vertical. See if your key will turn all the way over


That's not the way it's supposed to work.In my reply above:



VDub2625 said:


> The only thing that sucked about that is the ball bearing went in my Jetta, so the key turned past the "diagonal" position and became horizontal the OTHER way, meaning it worked exactly OPPOSITE of the door locks (trunk open when doors locked, trunk locked when doors open).


There is a tiny ball bearing on a spring that gets stuck with gunk over the years, and the two horizontal positions do two different things. Beware so you don't leave your hatch unlocked by accident


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Ah that makes sense.


----------



## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

TwoLitreVW said:


> diesel engines don't have a throttle butterfly (with few exceptions), so that means that air constantly flows through the intake tract, even when you lift off the throttle.
> 
> that means that the air that enters the engine gets compressed (as normal during a compression cycle), the energy of that compression gets sent back through the crank, then gets released via the exhaust cycle.
> 
> ...


That's why they're so loud, since you're dumping compressed air directly into the exhaust.


----------



## Lucian1988 (Mar 25, 2009)

alright so my manual transmission has, what it feels like to me a crunch when shifting 1 to 2 especially, 2 to 3 sometimes and rarely 3 to 4. its not super smooth shifting. what gives?


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Lucian1988 said:


> alright so my manual transmission has, what it feels like to me a crunch when shifting 1 to 2 especially, 2 to 3 sometimes and rarely 3 to 4. its not super smooth shifting. what gives?


could be a lot of things.

notice anything else about when it happens?

only when it's reached operating temp? only during warm up? only when it's cold or warm out? only at first, but then goes away? only during hard driving? only above or below a specific RPM? 

could be synchros. could be fluid (low or needing to be flushed/replaced). could even be poor clutch actuation due to wear or needing an adjustment. could be worn bushings if it's solid linkages in the assembly, or cables that have stretched or need adjustment if it's a cable shifter.

could just be a crap gearbox in an old, worn, tired car.

could even be user error (although i'm not stating that's the case; just that it's possible).



got any more info?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Synchros aren't working fast enough. maybe too heavy* oil, dirty oil, or worn synchros. Shift smoother or try a fluid change.

*heavy is my guess. I'm not sure which way you should go, but I'd start with an OEM weight first.


----------



## Lucian1988 (Mar 25, 2009)

TwoLitreVW said:


> could be a lot of things.
> 
> got any more info?


so heres what I think contributes to it. its my 1st manual that i DDed, been driving it since summer 2011. its on the CC. i just replaced fluid with OEM at 50K miles (7k miles ago, so it shouldnt be that). it happens at all temps, i think but it happens more in colder temps. 

the only user error that I could think of would be my shifting. in the beginning, hell up until 50Kish miles, when id shift, id never apply throttle until after id let the clutch out. which causes jerky shifts. i never bothered to smooth them out, until i noticed crunchiness. now im actively working at using both feet when shifting. im bad at explaining it. 

i also have a transmission mount from BSH, that i've had since new that i have a feeling my have disintegrated and is causing jerky shifts. am i wrong in assuming this?


----------



## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

Could also be a hydraulic/cable problem with the clutch not engaging all the way.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

No offense to you, but I have seen new manual drivers (and uncorrected ones) who think you have to jerk the shifter from one gear to another regardless of how the car is functioning. I like to do it softly and slowly, so you can feel the syncros disengaging on the previous gear and spinning up to the next gear. Just hold it at the stop point and you should feel the scros doing their thing and get a better understanding of how the gear change works :thumbup:


----------



## Lucian1988 (Mar 25, 2009)

VDub2625 said:


> No offense to you, but I have seen new manual drivers (and uncorrected ones) who think you have to jerk the shifter from one gear to another regardless of how the car is functioning. I like to do it softly and slowly, so you can feel the syncros disengaging on the previous gear and spinning up to the next gear. Just hold it at the stop point and you should feel the scros doing their thing and get a better understanding of how the gear change works :thumbup:


i have done that a few times actually, it feels good when you hold it and then goes in.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Lucian1988 said:


> i have done that a few times actually, it feels good when you hold it and then goes in.


You probably know this then, but if you hold it there while the revs drop, it slips right in usually whe the car is perfectly rev-matched. You want to aim for that ev match goal during your shift, and the mechanics of that will come with time.


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

If diesels don't have a throttle butterfly how is the throttle controlled?


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

In the most basic of explanations, by regulating the amount of fuel in the cycle. 

As the systems get more refined, there's more at play, but that's the basic principle.


----------



## feels_road (Jan 27, 2005)

thegave said:


> If diesels don't have a throttle butterfly how is the throttle controlled?


Modern Diesels do have a throttle - to control EGR, low RPM/ shut-off conditions, emissions, and other variables.

But, yes, modern fuel-injected Diesels are mostly regulated by how much fuel is injected.


----------



## scottybones (Jan 5, 2008)

Just had a set of tires mounted ... one of the wheels has tape on wheels weight placed at an angle:










Is this correct placement? Is there ever a scenario where wheel weights should be placed at an angle?

Doesn't seem right ...


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

If they're in the right spot, it shouldn't be a problem. But if you're ocd, it's gonna bug ya like it does me.


----------



## scottybones (Jan 5, 2008)

TwoLitreVW said:


> If they're in the right spot, it shouldn't be a problem. But if you're ocd, it's gonna bug ya like it does me.


Yeah it bugs me haha! 

Would it be foolish to remove the crooked weights and straighten them? With fresh weights, of course


----------



## dubbin'0n15s (Sep 27, 2005)

scottybones said:


> Just had a set of tires mounted ... one of the wheels has tape on wheels weight placed at an angle:
> 
> Is this correct placement? Is there ever a scenario where wheel weights should be placed at an angle?
> 
> Doesn't seem right ...


WTF! Who ever balanced your wheels is an idiot. Take it back, and have them balance them correctly.

edit: unless your wheel is bent beyond belief, and or you have the cheapest chinese tires ever made.


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

scottybones said:


> Yeah it bugs me haha!
> 
> Would it be foolish to remove the crooked weights and straighten them? With fresh weights, of course


should be fine as long as you put them in the right spot.


----------



## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

*Chevrolet Cruze Question*

The Chevrolet dealership has just replaced the car's leaking water pump under warranty, and the service technician says the car is ready for the 30,000 mile service. The service includes a transmission fluid change for $200 and a fuel system cleaning including the throttle body for $120. Is it worth the cost to have the dealership perform these services? 

Thanks.


----------



## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

Will going over a lot of bumps shorten headlamp life? 

I just recently heard this and thought the guy was crazy.


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

82Turbo930 said:


> Will going over a lot of bumps shorten headlamp life?


If you smack a table lamp hard enough, it's possible to get the bulb to fail. In that respect, it's plausible. More plausible with a bulb that's already weak with age.

However, In the real world, with real world bumps, and real world suspension... I doubt you'd notice the difference.

Most bulbs I've had fail, fail when I turn them on. That's a more extreme 'smack' than a pothole.


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

DonPatrizio said:


> The Chevrolet dealership has just replaced the car's leaking water pump under warranty, and the service technician says the car is ready for the 30,000 mile service. The service includes a transmission fluid change for $200 and a fuel system cleaning including the throttle body for $120. Is it worth the cost to have the dealership perform these services?
> 
> Thanks.


The better question is: is it worth it to YOU?

Some guys are handier than others and can do this type of job in the driveway for the cost of the fluids.

Others would rather not get their hands dirty.


----------



## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

Why do independent repair shops list specific functions over specific bays, when most of the bays are general/generic in function?












Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Yuppie Scum (Mar 23, 2014)

Is it true that if you don't use it.. You lose it?


----------



## 87vr6 (Jan 17, 2002)

g-man_ae said:


> Why do independent repair shops list specific functions over specific bays, when most of the bays are general/generic in function?


They're not listing a bays function, rather it just looks semi-symmetrical, neat and tidy.


----------



## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

On some cars (mainly high end/race cars) when they let off the throttle but still coast, usually right before or after a downshift, the exhuast sounds like there popcorn in it, its really rough and raspy. Whereas that same engine under load or when the brakes are being applied that sound texture isnt there. Anyone have an explanation for the cause? 
You can hear it here at like 3:18-3:20 




And here at like 0:32 you can hear it 




A lot of other cars other than ferraris do it too, i just think the ferraris sound the best LOL

(SRT4s, modded corvettes, 4V mustangs tend to have it too but dont sound nearly as good)


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

The snap, crackle, pop you hear from the exhaust is unburned fuel rapidly changing temperature as it meets the ambient air in or just outside the exhaust, and igniting.


----------



## willisan (Jan 24, 2012)

RacerrRex said:


> You can hear it here at like 3:18-3:20


Haha I just watched this vid (again) yesterday. The sound gives me chills every time. 

I'd like to hear what people have to say about your question there too. I've driven a few cars (mainly NA) that when upshifting aggressively the engine/car gives a final urge/push as you lay off the throttle, and with the correct exhaust setup, I imagine would make a similar sound to what you're referencing. I'd assume it has more to do with powerband/engine design than NA vs Turbo though.


----------



## THE KILLER RABBIT (Jun 2, 2003)

a bit random, but my questions involves trading cars in at dealerships, specifically even trades and downgrades. whats the incentive for a dealer to give a customer money and a new car. lets assume that the trade in value for your old car is fair market value and that the deal on the new car is at least reasonable. since you are downgrading or trading there would be no financing involved so they cant make interest off of you. anyone have some insight into how this kind of deal normally works out? do they normally only make that kind of deal if you are getting really screwed?


----------



## Chockomon (Aug 20, 2005)

THE KILLER RABBIT said:


> a bit random, but my questions involves trading cars in at dealerships, specifically even trades and downgrades. whats the incentive for a dealer to give a customer money and a new car. lets assume that the trade in value for your old car is fair market value and that the deal on the new car is at least reasonable. since you are downgrading or trading there would be no financing involved so they cant make interest off of you. anyone have some insight into how this kind of deal normally works out? do they normally only make that kind of deal if you are getting really screwed?


My brother did this with his old GTI - it was a 2006 model that was paid off. Traded it into a VW dealer for a lease on a 2011 Passat. They gave him a check for the trade value of the GTI minus the down payment (which was minimal)


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

THE KILLER RABBIT said:


> a bit random, but my questions involves trading cars in at dealerships, specifically even trades and downgrades. whats the incentive for a dealer to give a customer money and a new car.


I think the purpose of a trade-in is more for incentive than actual profit. It gets you into the dealership, and helps them move a car. Sometimes they make money from manufacturer bonus payments based on the amount of cars sold in a given month, rather than on the value of the cars themselves. Then again, sometimes they get the margins right on their trade-in offer, and get you in above their cost on the sale car, and profit is made. 

Basically, if you traded in your old car, you bought one off their lot, and they win. 

Somewhat relevant to your question is a pretty interesting _This American Life_ episode about a dealership on Long Island: http://www.thisamericanlife.org/radio-archives/episode/513/129-cars


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## 1.8TRabbit (Nov 15, 2004)

I am looking to respray some of the plastic pieces on my 2002 Mini Cooper S. 
I have searched for an hour online now on how to remove these pieces (shown in the photos) and I am unsuccessful with finding out how. If I have to I will just tape it all off but the way they are installed it will be difficult to get the tape inside the fittings. Would like to know how to get these pieces off so I can respray them. 

Not my actual photos but these are example photos. 
I want to respray the two vertical pillars running side by side to the radio. 









I want to remove the handle where you grab on the door.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Not sure if serious (since just about every single bolt you'd need to remove is right in the open), but here ya go:










Step-by-step here:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...lation/52-ELEC-Driving_Light_Installation.htm


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## 88c900t (Jul 7, 2014)

When you take your car to a dynamometer, do they do anything else apart from measuring the stats on the machine, such as making adjustments to the carb/ignition system?


----------



## cseaman (Jul 8, 2003)

88c900t said:


> When you take your car to a dynamometer, do they do anything else apart from measuring the stats on the machine, such as making adjustments to the carb/ignition system?


are you referring to "going to a dyno"? if so, they do nothing except measure your car as it shows up.

you can get "dyno tuned", which would mean that 'carb/ignition adjustments' would be made by a 'professional' tuner ON a dyno, where all changes would be made in comparison to the numbers the car put down when it showed up at the same location. i don't know if any answer to this post could cover all the bases, but i tried.


----------



## 88c900t (Jul 7, 2014)

KC Jazz said:


> are you referring to "going to a dyno"? if so, they do nothing except measure your car as it shows up.
> 
> you can get "dyno tuned", which would mean that 'carb/ignition adjustments' would be made by a 'professional' tuner ON a dyno, where all changes would be made in comparison to the numbers the car put down when it showed up at the same location. i don't know if any answer to this post could cover all the bases, but i tried.


Excellent.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

The engine bay of my Mazda5 has all those plastic covers like a lot of newer cars. One of the plastic pieces is some sort of "ram air"-like ducting that goes from the grille directly into the battery box. What is this for? Is there really a need to cool a car battery?


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

It's not so much "cooling the battery", as it is "protecting the battery from the engine compartment heat." 
Generally, the battery will live a longer life if it isn't constantly being cooked in a >200*F oven.


----------



## I_like_waffles (Jun 21, 2012)

I've been reading about colder/hotter spark plugs for way too long now. From my understanding, switching to one step colder on a stock 08+ STI would help prevent the predetonation and lean issues. No?

I mean sure the plugs would foul quicker, but just change them more often, no big deal.. small price to pay. 
It seems like running colder plugs on a stock STI would only have benefits... please correct me if I'm wrong. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

I_like_waffles said:


> I've been reading about colder/hotter spark plugs for way too long now. From my understanding, switching to one step colder on a stock 08+ STI would help prevent the predetonation and lean issues. No?
> 
> I mean sure the plugs would foul quicker, but just change them more often, no big deal.. small price to pay.
> It seems like running colder plugs on a stock STI would only have benefits... please correct me if I'm wrong.
> ...


Do they detonate a lot on 91/93 premium? An octane booster might achieve the same results with less work.


----------



## AZGolf (Jun 6, 2000)

I_like_waffles said:


> I've been reading about colder/hotter spark plugs for way too long now. From my understanding, switching to one step colder on a stock 08+ STI would help prevent the predetonation and lean issues. No?
> 
> I mean sure the plugs would foul quicker, but just change them more often, no big deal.. small price to pay.
> It seems like running colder plugs on a stock STI would only have benefits... please correct me if I'm wrong.


Not really. I was starting to describe it myself, but honestly the NGK page does a fantastic job. I'd give it a read:

NGK Spark Plugs info page on spark plug heat range

Cliff notes: You just want to make sure they are the _right_ heat range for your application. Stock is generally best on a mostly stock car. With heavy mods, then yeah, _possibly_ you'll want a different heat range, but not always.


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## cseaman (Jul 8, 2003)

A.Wilder said:


> Do they detonate a lot on 91/93 premium? An octane booster might achieve the same results with less work.


hahahha did you really just recommend a bottled octane booster? :laugh:


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

KC Jazz said:


> hahahha did you really just recommend a bottled octane booster?


If its just a winter mix issue it might be worth a shot


----------



## RafaGti (Jul 25, 2006)

Hi!

I've secretly always wondered how manufacturers/engine builders and tuners (to some degree) determine or decide an engines redline. What's the combination of factors that they use? 

I honestly have no idea...


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

RafaGti said:


> Hi!
> 
> I've secretly always wondered how manufacturers/engine builders and tuners (to some degree) determine or decide an engines redline. What's the combination of factors that they use?
> 
> I honestly have no idea...




it's often more a result of knowing the limits of the hardware for the application in question. 

for example, they know that certain bits will fail if exposed to certain stresses above certain tolerances. and it's likely a combination of a number of things.

oil pressure, fueling ability, valve float, metallurgy, heat management, air flow, etc are just a few things that come to mind that can limit an engine's ability to rev before something breaks and results in major failure.

once those weaknesses are exploited and identified, you can then factor in a bit of headroom to keep it conservative and make sure your product isn't out blowing itself up in the wild.


----------



## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

TwoLitreVW said:


> it's often more a result of knowing the limits of the hardware for the application in question.
> 
> for example, they know that certain bits will fail if exposed to certain stresses above certain tolerances. and it's likely a combination of a number of things.
> 
> ...


That, and even then its usually still below its maximum capacity for safety reasons. Hence some cars being able to increase redline with just a tune


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

RafaGti said:


> Hi!
> 
> I've secretly always wondered how manufacturers/engine builders and tuners (to some degree) determine or decide an engines redline. What's the combination of factors that they use?
> 
> I honestly have no idea...





TwoLitreVW said:


> it's often more a result of knowing the limits of the hardware for the application in question.
> 
> for example, they know that certain bits will fail if exposed to certain stresses above certain tolerances. and it's likely a combination of a number of things.
> 
> ...


To expand on this.

Excluding external factors not related to the actual mechanical function of a piston engine, ie: oiling, fuel, ignition, cooling, warrantability, safety factor, etc.; there are a few things that help determine the maximum RPM range an engine can operate in. 

*Mean Piston Speed*, the actual speed of the piston is roughly the same for a particular state of tune regardless of manufacturer. This is a function of stroke length versus RPM. This is taken into consideration, but is usually not the limiting factor. The stroke and thus MPS will be matched to operational ranges of the engines valvetrain. 

quick reference chart 


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mean_piston_speed said:


> low speed diesels
> ~8.5 m/s for marine and electric power generation applications
> medium speed diesels
> ~11 m/s for trains or trucks
> ...



One of the biggest limits is harmonics in the valvetrain, the forces involved grow at an exponential rate as the cycling components hit orders of harmonics.

You can see some of the effects in these videos, the spring is oscillating and exerting a greater force on the retainer than its at rest springrate. Also visible is the valve stem oscillation.











These videos were most likely shot while the engine was on a Spintron machine. A Spintron is a piece of test equipment that powers a modified engine (pistons removed, various holes cut, sensor equipment attached, etc) using an electric motor.

Basically until this machine was developed in the early 1990's, manufacturers were completely guessing, and limits were established by trial and error and rudimentary calculations. This also exposed the true reasons why pushrods are "inferior" to OHC. 

Manufacturers web site with some history
http://trendperform.com/spintron/about/

Brief explanation of setup and use






In operation





There are several theories to increase the stability/alter the harmonics of a valvetrain, dual/triple springs, eliminating the springs (Desmodronic), and using different style valves (Rotary valves)

Desmodronic
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Desmodromic_valve






I am sure I am glossing over some technical aspects for the sake of simplicity (and my own lack of knowledge) but basically production car redlines are determined by accountants, race cars by engineers and testing.


----------



## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

How engines work, in layman's terms.

http://arstechnica.com/features/201...uck-how-car-engines-now-go-further-on-less/1/


----------



## Claff (Nov 2, 2009)

My stupid question

88 CRX Si, 245K miles stock original drivetrain

When I'm approaching a red light or stop sign, I can usually take the car out of gear with very light pressure on the gear shift stick. It just slides out of gear and into neutral so I don't use the clutch to take it out of gear.

Is this hurting the transmission at all?


----------



## jszucs (Sep 21, 2013)

Why have I never had a car that the washer fluid tank will take a full bottle? Couldn't they have made them just a touch bigger to take a full bottle?


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## J2G (Aug 9, 2012)

^ If it were to hurt anything, it would be the synchros. But you're not doing it while the engine is under throttle, so I would say it's bad practice, but not actually doing meaningful harm.

My question: On aftermarket alarms, what is the advantage to having a noise sensor? There's a Charger in my apartment complex that whistles every time I drive past (my exhaust is aftermarket, but not loud by any means IMO). I don't see the benefit to making noise in response to noise.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Claff said:


> When I'm approaching a red light or stop sign, I can usually take the car out of gear with very light pressure on the gear shift stick. It just slides out of gear and into neutral so I don't use the clutch to take it out of gear.
> 
> Is this hurting the transmission at all?


No hurt at all. Not even to syncros. It's just pulling away instead of shoving into each other, if that makes sense. If you are tipping the throttle (and coasting, so not gaining or losing speed), it's easiest. But if you're lightly engine braking, no damage. heavy engine braking, and you're pulling the opposite way on the cables/rods/etc, and that an wear bushings (if you do it every day forever). But still no internal wear. 

Clutchless shifting is kind of the opposite, and can damage/wear syncros, but that's because they're doing the speed-matching for you. If you do it juuust right, it can be done without wear to syncros, but in practice there's always a little bit. 



J2G said:


> My question: On aftermarket alarms, what is the advantage to having a noise sensor? There's a Charger in my apartment complex that whistles every time I drive past (my exhaust is aftermarket, but not loud by any means IMO). I don't see the benefit to making noise in response to noise.


Glass break sensor.


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## djstarscr3am (Aug 16, 2012)

jszucs said:


> Why have I never had a car that the washer fluid tank will take a full bottle? Couldn't they have made them just a touch bigger to take a full bottle?


MR2 Spyder takes a full gallon + a little more lol:laugh:


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## jszucs (Sep 21, 2013)

djstarscr3am said:


> MR2 Spyder takes a full gallon + a little more lol:laugh:


That is so odd it's a small car and takes a full bottle. Even big cars like my 84 LeSaber didn't take a full bottle... and I could sit in the motor bay to work on it. So it's not like they didn't have room. Was always left with just a little bit at the very bottom of the bottle


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## z0d (Oct 13, 2009)

jszucs said:


> That is so odd it's a small car and takes a full bottle. Even big cars like my 84 LeSaber didn't take a full bottle... and I could sit in the motor bay to work on it. So it's not like they didn't have room. Was always left with just a little bit at the very bottom of the bottle


Well, the MR2 does have a little extra space in the front.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

jszucs said:


> Why have I never had a car that the washer fluid tank will take a full bottle? Couldn't they have made them just a touch bigger to take a full bottle?


I don't know how engineers come up with the number. but most VW washer bottles are 3/4 liters, except if they have headlight washers, when they jump to 7/8 liters. 

it seems newer VWs have te same bottle with or without headlight washers, though (I don't know if they'll take a gallon or not). 

In Europe washer fluid is sold by the liter I think? So it makes sense for them


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

J2G said:


> My question: On aftermarket alarms, what is the advantage to having a noise sensor? There's a Charger in my apartment complex that whistles every time I drive past (my exhaust is aftermarket, but not loud by any means IMO). I don't see the benefit to making noise in response to noise.



i'm not so sure that's a noise sensor.

a lot of aftermarket alarms have shock sensors. some are very sensitive, and can be set off by things like cars driving by, a car getting bumped, etc.


that's likely what's happening in your case.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

J2G said:


> ^ If it were to hurt anything, it would be the synchros. But you're not doing it while the engine is under throttle, so I would say it's bad practice, but not actually doing meaningful harm.
> 
> My question: On aftermarket alarms, what is the advantage to having a noise sensor? There's a Charger in my apartment complex that whistles every time I drive past (my exhaust is aftermarket, but not loud by any means IMO). I don't see the benefit to making noise in response to noise.






TwoLitreVW said:


> i'm not so sure that's a noise sensor.
> 
> a lot of aftermarket alarms have shock sensors. some are very sensitive, and can be set off by things like cars driving by, a car getting bumped, etc.
> 
> ...


Every aftermarket alarm has a shock/impact sensor. They are all adjustable, so it can be changed. They are basically a low frequency mic, a magnet suspended over a coil of wire. The rubber holding the magnet tends to change with the weather as well. They do no good, unless someone is throwing eggs, or taking a baseball bat to your car. I am pretty sure they pack them in with a basic alarm because they are cheap, and the more useful sensors can be sold as addons. And most people don't think about what good the sensor is doing, and like to hear the 150-600 dollars they spent doing something. 



VDub2625 said:


> Glass break sensor.


A true glass break sensor is a high frequency mic, that has a bandpass filter to only listen to the sound of glass breaking. Very helpful, and is not prone to false alarms. Unless you leave your phone in your car, then your message alert may set it off. 

I used to install alarms. Bugged me quite a bit how useless some of the stuff was.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

monoaural said:


> A true glass break sensor is a high frequency mic, that has a bandpass filter to only listen to the sound of glass breaking. Very helpful, and is not prone to false alarms. Unless you leave your phone in your car, then your message alert may set it off.
> 
> I used to install alarms. Bugged me quite a bit how useless some of the stuff was.


Ah, makes sense. I assumed the impact/glass break stuff was all one sort of sensor :thumbup:

I like how some alarms give off a chirp warning for light sensor activation, and wait until a real impact to set off the shock sensor


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## J2G (Aug 9, 2012)

Thanks for the knowledge folks. :thumbup:

I knew about shock sensors - seeing some aftermarket cars on a tow truck going berserk is funny. :laugh:


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## millerlite3421 (Nov 24, 2011)

Thought about this while watching the V8 BRZ video and reading the description_ "the engine is based on two of the 1.2-liter inline four-cylinder units from a Kawasaki Ninja ZX-12R motorcycle"_

How exactly is a v8 "based on" an inline 4 cylinder? I could see how the cylinder heads may be the same architecturally, but even then, the cams/pistons would have to work sequentially with 4 other cylinders. 

I've also seen this elsewhere in the V8 Ariel Atom.


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

millerlite3421 said:


> Thought about this while watching the V8 BRZ video and reading the description_ "the engine is based on two of the 1.2-liter inline four-cylinder units from a Kawasaki Ninja ZX-12R motorcycle"_
> 
> How exactly is a v8 "based on" an inline 4 cylinder? I could see how the cylinder heads may be the same architecturally, but even then, the cams/pistons would have to work sequentially with 4 other cylinders.
> 
> I've also seen this elsewhere in the V8 Ariel Atom.



I saw that engine. It took 70k of fabrication and custom machining. They basically cut a 4cyl down and literally welded it together in a v8 fashion. The crank, crankcase and other components that weren't the block and heads were custom made. The rest is simply software. IIRC that was running a motec stand alone, so not that hard to get running.

From what I understand after, then its simply getting it mass produced properly, which isn't that terrible once all the measurements are in place and its proven to work. Especially with half the engine being off the shelf parts.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

SirSpectre said:


> From what I understand after, then its simply getting it mass produced properly, which isn't that terrible once all the measurements are in place and its proven to work. Especially with half the engine being off the shelf parts.


OEMs do this, at least to an extent. it's an easy way to engineer an engine. Audi's V8 of the early 90s, for example, was a (heavily modified) twin VW 16v engine with a shared crank. One side is a mirror image of course, and lots of special engineering meant you can't swap many (if any) parts. But the design signature is there :thumbup:

Of course, it doesn't work well in the opposite direction. IIRC Pontiac engineered a 4 cylinder from half of a V8 in the 60s, and it went horribly


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

VDub2625 said:


> OEMs do this, at least to an extent. it's an easy way to engineer an engine. Audi's V8 of the early 90s, for example, was a (heavily modified) twin VW 16v engine with a shared crank. One side is a mirror image of course, and lots of special engineering meant you can't swap many (if any) parts. But the design signature is there :thumbup:
> 
> Of course, it doesn't work well in the opposite direction. IIRC Pontiac engineered a 4 cylinder from half of a V8 in the 60s, and it went horribly


This is quite common

Toyota 1GZ V12 made from the 1JZ I6 I was wrong about this, see below.










BMW M70 V12 made from the M20 I6










BMW M70 V12 was then stretched into the "Gold Fish" V16










IIRC the Mercedes M120 V12, BMW M60 V8, VW I5 and I6 Gas and diesel engines are all doubled/stretched variants of the more common I4/I6 engines

It was also done in reverse

International Harvester 152/196ci I4 made from the 304/392 V8










Pontiac Trophy 4 made from the 389 V8











Then there is this, the LSx based V12s and V4s built by cutting and welding blocks together


----------



## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

hognhominy said:


> This is quite common
> 
> Toyota 1GZ V12 made from the 1JZ I6


FWIW the GZ is not related to the JZ in any way other than it shares a common displacement of 2.5L/bank. The GZ is 81x80.8, not 86x71.5, it uses a different bore spacing, and the only thing the heads have in common is that they're both DOHC. The GZ head is FE Type with the narrow valve angle and scissor gears aside from being chain driven while the JZ was the wide angle, GE type with no scissor gears and belt drive.


As opposed to the M120 from MBZ as you mentioned which shares cylinder heads, borexstroke dimensions, even the power is roughly double compared to the M104 I6, hell even engine management with their little M104 I6, just doubled.


----------



## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

MAG58 said:


> FWIW the GZ is not related to the JZ in any way other than it shares a common displacement of 2.5L/bank. The GZ is 81x80.8, not 86x71.5, it uses a different bore spacing, and the only thing the heads have in common is that they're both DOHC. The GZ head is FE Type with the narrow valve angle and scissor gears aside from being chain driven while the JZ was the wide angle, GE type with no scissor gears and belt drive.
> 
> 
> As opposed to the M120 from MBZ as you mentioned which shares cylinder heads, borexstroke dimensions, even the power is roughly double compared to the M104 I6, hell even engine management with their little M104 I6, just doubled.


Good to know :thumbup:

Edit: Why does VMG not use the strike functions? oh well


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

hognhominy said:


> This is quite common
> 
> BMW M70 V12 made from the M20 I6
> 
> ...


That is awesome info, thanks. Especiall that last part!


----------



## MAG58 (Oct 15, 2011)

hognhominy said:


> Good to know :thumbup:
> 
> Edit: Why does VMG not use the strike functions? oh well


Who knows. Rest was on point though :thumbup: I think it's funny to look on the 'big' v12's you listed and see how many have casting numbers from the little motors.


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

VDub2625 said:


> Ah, makes sense. I assumed the impact/glass break stuff was all one sort of sensor :thumbup:
> 
> I like how some alarms give off a chirp warning for light sensor activation, and wait until a real impact to set off the shock sensor


every time I ride through a parking ramp on my motorcycle, chirps and then the alarms ... some just keep chirping and never actually go off though


----------



## Tekilog (Jul 31, 2014)

If an accident were to occur with one of these camouflaged pre-production models undergoing road testing, would the manufacturer agree to let the cops impound it or would the cops look the other way?


----------



## BigSandwich (Jul 22, 2004)

millerlite3421 said:


> Thought about this while watching the V8 BRZ video and reading the description_ "the engine is based on two of the 1.2-liter inline four-cylinder units from a Kawasaki Ninja ZX-12R motorcycle"_
> 
> How exactly is a v8 "based on" an inline 4 cylinder? I could see how the cylinder heads may be the same architecturally, but even then, the cams/pistons would have to work sequentially with 4 other cylinders.
> 
> I've also seen this elsewhere in the V8 Ariel Atom.


As mentioned earlier this is a good way to make a new motor. Many sport bike motors are made such that the cylinder walls unbolt from the main crank case. This way you can create a new crank case, crank, maybe cams (depending on the firing order you select) And make a new motor. While difficult these parts are easier to make than an entire engine from scratch. Also sport bike engines are usually make to be small, light, powerful, and high RPM. Which is what you want from a race motor.

Here is a link to company that does this with Hyabasu motor parts. They have good datasheets and pictures about how they did it.

http://www.radicalperformanceengines.com/powertec-macroblock-v8/


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## DerSpiegel (Jun 20, 2008)

BigSandwich said:


> As mentioned earlier this is a good way to make a new motor. Many sport bike motors are made such that the cylinder walls unbolt from the main crank case. This way you can create a new crank case, crank, maybe cams (depending on the firing order you select) And make a new motor. While difficult these parts are easier to make than an entire engine from scratch. Also sport bike engines are usually make to be small, light, powerful, and high RPM. Which is what you want from a race motor.
> 
> Here is a link to company that does this with Hyabasu motor parts. They have good datasheets and pictures about how they did it.
> 
> http://www.radicalperformanceengines.com/powertec-macroblock-v8/



The V-8 motorcycle based engine concept goes way back - see the Sesco Suzuki V-8 used in Midget racing.










http://thekneeslider.com/sesco-air-and-oil-cooled-suzuki-v8-engines/


----------



## Kyle C (Jan 7, 2002)

I've got a car with a tear in the foam-rubber door seal. It isn't causing the door not to seal, but I would like to fix it before it gets worse. What kind of adhesive should I use? Rubber cement, contact cement, something more specific I don't know about, etc?


----------



## compy222 (Apr 8, 2005)

Kyle C said:


> I've got a car with a tear in the foam-rubber door seal. It isn't causing the door not to seal, but I would like to fix it before it gets worse. What kind of adhesive should I use? Rubber cement, contact cement, something more specific I don't know about, etc?


in the past i've used a combination method and it depends on how bad it's been.

if it's a small tear, you can simply use black silicone rtv, it should be able to tack small tears back together.

if it's a bigger tear, cut the torn portion out, get a piece of door seal from a junkyard or ebay (it can be throw away type stuff), put the few inches back to fill the cut out gap. seal the two new edges with RTV and seal it off.

:beer:


----------



## JeffIsLax (Mar 26, 2005)

When a car has a flat, or low air, does the axle turn at the angular velocity of the new effective diameter of the tire (center of axle to ground) or does it not make a difference, because the circumference remains the same?


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

JeffIsLax said:


> When a car has a flat, or low air, does the axle turn at the angular velocity of the new effective diameter of the tire (center of axle to ground) or does it not make a difference, because the circumference remains the same?


It changes. This is why i's important to have equal tire pressure across drive axles. Even extreme tire wear differences can be enough to throw off AWD systems. 

If you get a flat, and need to ride the spare for a while, I suggest switching it to the back of a FWD car if it's safe to do so. It probably won't hurt anything on the front, but you eliminate that risk entirely, and the car should be easier to drive to boot.


----------



## smgs92 (May 21, 2013)

So my mother drives a Versa. On the rare occasion I have driven it either out of convenience or occasionally needed. everytime I drive it the thing is gutless so I usually have to rev it out and floor it on take off. I am aware i'm causing this but when i take off out of a turn literally everytime afterwards it needs an alignment because it pulls hard whichever direction I was turning. Out of the many vehicles I've driven none has done this. So I was just curious why? Is it just that cheaply built?


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## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

Saw this on facebook, lets revive this thread with actual questions that make you think instead of just "i broke my car how bad is the damage"

Car A: fwd, k20 with 300 hp
Car B: fwd, k20 with 300 hp but with an additional k20 with 300 hp in the back. Has 2 engines, each engine powering 2 axles. Front engine powering the front axles and the rear engine powering just the rear.
BOTH IN SAME BODY,CAR,FRAME. Both weigh the same
which one is faster "if one is faster than the other," and WHY???


I've already said my answer on the status but Im curious as to what you guys think? Im probably wrong LOL


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

smgs92 said:


> So my mother drives a Versa. On the rare occasion I have driven it either out of convenience or occasionally needed. everytime I drive it the thing is gutless so I usually have to rev it out and floor it on take off. I am aware i'm causing this but when i take off out of a turn literally everytime afterwards it needs an alignment because it pulls hard whichever direction I was turning. Out of the many vehicles I've driven none has done this. So I was just curious why? Is it just that cheaply built?


You're saying that the car's alignment is being affected based on your spirited acceleration while turning?

Affected how, exactly? 

Do you have any more info? Perhaps alignment specs? Maybe a little more description on what's going on?

Something doesn't sound right.


----------



## CaleDeRoo (Jul 30, 2011)

RacerrRex said:


> Saw this on facebook, lets revive this thread with actual questions that make you think instead of just "i broke my car how bad is the damage"
> 
> Car A: fwd, k20 with 300 hp
> Car B: fwd, k20 with 300 hp but with an additional k20 with 300 hp in the back. Has 2 engines, each engine powering 2 axles. Front engine powering the front axles and the rear engine powering just the rear.
> ...


What exactly is the rear engine powering, if car B is still FWD?


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## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

CaleDeRoo said:


> What exactly is the rear engine powering, if car B is still FWD?


I think he meant AWD :laugh:


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

smgs92 said:


> So my mother drives a Versa. On the rare occasion I have driven it either out of convenience or occasionally needed. everytime I drive it the thing is gutless so I usually have to rev it out and floor it on take off. I am aware i'm causing this but when i take off out of a turn literally everytime afterwards it needs an alignment because it pulls hard whichever direction I was turning. Out of the many vehicles I've driven none has done this. So I was just curious why? Is it just that cheaply built?


It likely has a CVT, so it's not 'gutless' per se, but actually only revs the engine for the amount of power you need. Floor it, and it'll sit on the peak of the hp/tq curve until you let off the gas. CVT means the engine can stay in the powerband over a range of speeds. Normal driving means the engine stays in the lower power band, but that should be all you need. It kinda take a different technique while driving to get used to. 

What you might be feeling is torque steer, which is amplified while turning and an open differential?


----------



## Chockomon (Aug 20, 2005)

RacerrRex said:


> Saw this on facebook, lets revive this thread with actual questions that make you think instead of just "i broke my car how bad is the damage"
> 
> Car A: fwd, k20 with 300 hp
> Car B: fwd, k20 with 300 hp but with an additional k20 with 300 hp in the back. Has 2 engines, each engine powering 2 axles. Front engine powering the front axles and the rear engine powering just the rear.
> ...


Sooooooo a 300hp FWD car vs a 600hp AWD car that both weigh the same?


----------



## Chockomon (Aug 20, 2005)

smgs92 said:


> So my mother drives a Versa. On the rare occasion I have driven it either out of convenience or occasionally needed. everytime I drive it the thing is gutless so I usually have to rev it out and floor it on take off. I am aware i'm causing this but when i take off out of a turn literally everytime afterwards it needs an alignment because it pulls hard whichever direction I was turning. Out of the many vehicles I've driven none has done this. So I was just curious why? Is it just that cheaply built?


I had this issue with a shifting subframe. I would start checking suspension/steering bits (IE inner tie rods, subframe bolts, ball joints, etc.) sounds like something is either shifting of binding on hard turns


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

RacerrRex said:


> Saw this on facebook, lets revive this thread with actual questions that make you think instead of just "i broke my car how bad is the damage"
> 
> Car A: fwd, k20 with 300 hp
> Car B: fwd, k20 with 300 hp but with an additional k20 with 300 hp in the back. Has 2 engines, each engine powering 2 axles. Front engine powering the front axles and the rear engine powering just the rear.
> ...


I'm impressed they were able to add another engine and trans, wiring, cooling, extra exhaust, etc and keep the weight exactly the same as just the FWD version. What voodoo is this?

But in this case, obvious answer is obvious?


----------



## Chockomon (Aug 20, 2005)

G60 Carat said:


> I'm impressed they were able to add another engine and trans, wiring, cooling, extra exhaust, **** cables, etc and keep the weight exactly the same as just the FWD version. What voodoo is this?
> 
> But in this case, obvious answer is obvious?


Car A wins?


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

How come so many cars have bumper cut lines like this...










instead of like this?











I figure in a rear end collision, the bumper is going to absorb the impact by pushing forward, and damaging the quarter panel in front of it instead of sliding underneath it as in the older car. I've wondered this for a long time becuase some rear bumper cutline designs seem to arbitrarily have vertial portions even if the design of the car would have rather had a straight horizontal line.


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## smgs92 (May 21, 2013)

TwoLitreVW said:


> You're saying that the car's alignment is being affected based on your spirited acceleration while turning?
> 
> Affected how, exactly?
> 
> ...


 After a hard acceleration while turning, when driving normal afterwards it pulls to whichever direction I had been turning. 
For example: I turn left with hard acceleration and after I'm going straight no acceleration simply cruising, it will then pull to the left if I were to take my hand off the steering wheel instead of going straight.



VDub2625 said:


> It likely has a CVT, so it's not 'gutless' per se, but actually only revs the engine for the amount of power you need. Floor it, and it'll sit on the peak of the hp/tq curve until you let off the gas. CVT means the engine can stay in the powerband over a range of speeds. Normal driving means the engine stays in the lower power band, but that should be all you need. It kinda take a different technique while driving to get used to.
> 
> What you might be feeling is torque steer, which is amplified while turning and an open differential?


It does have a CVT while I understand what you mean about it not being completely gutless it only has 120hp while I'm used to 280hp in my car. I know what torque steer is and while it does have some torque steer that is not the problem I am encountering. 


Chockomon said:


> I had this issue with a shifting subframe. I would start checking suspension/steering bits (IE inner tie rods, subframe bolts, ball joints, etc.) sounds like something is either shifting of binding on hard turns


I will definitely look into that and ask the shop that does my alignments(free alignments for life ftw) though they've never mentioned anything before. It is still under warranty from Nissan if there is anything wrong.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

smgs92 said:


> After a hard acceleration while turning, when driving normal afterwards it pulls to whichever direction I had been turning.
> For example: I turn left with hard acceleration and after I'm going straight no acceleration simply cruising, it will then pull to the left if I were to take my hand off the steering wheel instead of going straight.


A slight tow-out alignment can cause this feeling. The car is "ready" to turn, and keep turning, in the direction you went (0 toe would be neutral, and tow-in would produce a caster effect, returning to center strongly). If you tap the steering wheel slightly right, it will likely do the same thing?


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## smgs92 (May 21, 2013)

Yes if I were to turn in the same fashion to the right it would start pulling to the right. It does not go away until it has an alignment.


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

VDub2625 said:


> How come so many cars have bumper cut lines like this...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm no expert, but here's my take on it.
I'm guessing it's to do with the trend for a 'flush' transition between the rear fender and bumper cover, and there are only so many ways to join up the bumper/tail lamp/rear fender without the use of extra filler panels.
The second pic showing the bumper lining up with the bottom of the trunk lid and tail lamps IMO makes alignment easier after collision repair (or the bigger gap gives more room for error without it looking broken). The same join on the 370Z won't line up even if one of the bits is a little off/bent, it's like a perfectly fitting puzzle.


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## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

What causes potholes?


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## Spiller337 (Nov 27, 2009)

RacerrRex said:


> What causes potholes?


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pothole
Just read about them the other day. Enjoy.

Now is the time you see the "throw and roll" repairs, which come undone after a few days, or become sunken and lumpy.


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## Giovanni (May 13, 2000)

The potholes out there are cavernous. 

What does it mean if wheels are staggered please?


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## bWs (Dec 27, 2004)

Giovanni said:


> The potholes out there are cavernous.
> 
> What does it mean if wheels are staggered please?


From eHow.com



> Staggered wheels refers to an arrangement of wheels on cars, trucks, planes and other vehicles in which the pair of wheels on one end of the vehicle are a different size or shape than the wheels on the other end. Usually, this means the back wheels are larger than the front wheels, often a couple inches wider across the tread or larger in diameter. This is done for practical and aesthetic reasons. Although larger rear tires can help vehicles move over uneven ground, they also affect the build and frame design of the car, making it look sleeker or more powerful. Many car companies sell sets of staggered wheels.


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## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

Giovanni said:


> The potholes out there are cavernous.
> 
> What does it mean if wheels are staggered please?


2 wheels are wider than the other 2. Usually on RWD cars for traction or deep dish wheels:

*horrible examples but i was looking for exaggerated fitment to get the point across*


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## CaleDeRoo (Jul 30, 2011)

Or used for scene points.


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## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

CaleDeRoo said:


> Or used for scene points.
> 
> vdub [/QUOTE]
> 
> Kinda asinine to do put wider wheels in the rear...on a FWD car :screwy::laugh:


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

That's what they call "stance, bro."


----------



## inquisitive (May 23, 2008)

Why do rappers prefer the '64 impala over other years?


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

inquisitive said:


> Why do rappers prefer the '64 impala over other years?


The 63 was a bit more subtly styled, while maintaining the same basic profile.

The 65 was redesigned and had more rounded edges; still a good looking car but lacked the character of the previous model.

The 64 had a pair of body lines that went straight across the car nose to tail. It was a slight change from the 63, that accentuated the shape and style of the car. These models often can be found with two tone paint, since those body lines offered a visual breakup that made it look very classy for the time. 

Also, when constructing a rhyme, the pentameter offered by the phrase "six fo' impala" makes it versatile for use with many lyrical arrangements. This is also in addition to the popularity already achieved previously by other artists making it a very desirable ride to add to one's collection for music videos and other means of recognition.


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## bob570 (Oct 9, 2010)

Is there any real advantage to using slotted or drilled brake rotors over a flat solid rotor? 

Is there any real advantage to spending $100 on flat Brembo rotors vs a cheaper $60 Meyle rotor?

I'd like to do a couple track days this summer and I'm going need to change my pads and rotors before then, and I'd like to avoid brake fade as much as possible. I'm planning on using Hawks HPS 5.0 pads.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Drilled or Slotted = Yes, it allows heat and gasses trapped between the brake pad and rotor to escape, keep the pad cooler and chemically "clean". Also helps reduce pad glazing.

Brembo vs Meyle, you're probably good either way. Either of those 2 brand vs. a cheaper/jobber/off shore whatever you want to call it rotor. Yeah there is a difference. Quality rotors last longer, and are less likely to crack and/or warp. If you track day'ing, avoid budget rotors. Look at ATE slotted for a good quality slotted rotor at an affordable price, and easy to get locally almost anywhere.

Hawk = :thumbup: EBC = :thumbup: Stoptech = :thumbup:




* My question is:* why is my 3 year old floor jack piston sticking down, and will a seal kit fix it? (The seal kit does have piston seals and piston cups/donuts) The floor jack is not leaking any fluid externally. 

It's a fast lift style with 2 pistons, only the right side piston is sticking. Which I think does the work when under load, the left side just does no load/fast lift. I grabbed some jack oil and and filled it up, it was down a touch, but no change in function. 

Looks a little like this, but Princess Auto/Powerfist brand.


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## psychodiagnostik (Mar 20, 2005)

How expensive is it to hot rod the crazy engines from the late '70s that were huge in displacement but low on power?

Several times I've been tempted to get an old Lincoln or something from Craigslist with a 460 as a project. Do the engines respond at all to losing the smog stuff, & swapping intake/carb/cam? If not, are the blocks good enough to do this, plus higher comp pistons/heads?

An old Lincoln or LTD with a souped up monster-displacement motor seems interesting.


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## apizzaparty (Mar 6, 2011)

What is the difference from HID's, projectors, bi-xenon ect


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## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

bob570 said:


> Is there any real advantage to using slotted or drilled brake rotors over a flat solid rotor?
> 
> Is there any real advantage to spending $100 on flat Brembo rotors vs a cheaper $60 Meyle rotor?
> 
> I'd like to do a couple track days this summer and I'm going need to change my pads and rotors before then, and I'd like to avoid brake fade as much as possible. I'm planning on using Hawks HPS 5.0 pads.


Yep, heat dissapation. Also prevents rotor warping.

Brakes and tires are one thing you should never cheap out on, especially on performance cars/cars that see track use. 
THeres a reason pretty much all race cars and high end sports/exotic cars use them! They're proven to work


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## CostcoPizza (Jan 20, 2008)

apizzaparty said:


> What is the difference from HID's, projectors, bi-xenon ect


Here's a very basic explanation.

HID = high intensity discharge, the technical name for the light. Xenon is the gas used to create the light.
Bi-Xenon = Xenon for low and high beams
Xenon = Xenon for lows only

Here's a BMW 5 series headlight. Equipped with xenons. Low beam are projector style (lens in front of light inside a housing), high beam are halogen reflector (light reflects off the back of the headlight)


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

psychodiagnostik said:


> How expensive is it to hot rod the crazy engines from the late '70s that were huge in displacement but low on power?
> 
> Several times I've been tempted to get an old Lincoln or something from Craigslist with a 460 as a project. Do the engines respond at all to losing the smog stuff, & swapping intake/carb/cam? If not, are the blocks good enough to do this, plus higher comp pistons/heads?
> 
> An old Lincoln or LTD with a souped up monster-displacement motor seems interesting.


YES. Never be late to bingo again






Aftermarket Al heads seem to be a good idea

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ccrp-0602-big-block-ford-engine-build/


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## 4.OMG (Dec 20, 2004)

psychodiagnostik said:


> How expensive is it to hot rod the crazy engines from the late '70s that were huge in displacement but low on power?
> 
> Several times I've been tempted to get an old Lincoln or something from Craigslist with a 460 as a project. Do the engines respond at all to losing the smog stuff, & swapping intake/carb/cam? If not, are the blocks good enough to do this, plus higher comp pistons/heads?
> 
> An old Lincoln or LTD with a souped up monster-displacement motor seems interesting.


That depends on how much power you want to make. You didn't mention it in your post above, but the factory exhaust should be the first thing to go. Decent headers and a free-flowing exhaust system will wake up most anything. Swapping the factory cast-iron manifold for a dual plane aluminum intake (Weiand Stealth is my favorite) will let the motor breathe a bit more. 

Carburetors can be a different story. A Rochester Quadrajet (the 4-barrel found on GM V8s basically forever) can be a VERY good carburetor for performance and mileage due to the relatively small primaries and gigantic vacuum secondaries. I have less experience with Ford smog-era carbs, but I've never met anyone who was especially unhappy with a Holley Double Pumper.

The camshafts in those smog motors were essentially round (OK, not really, but the profiles were heavily biased in favor of fuel economy and emissions, rather than performance). Without more compression and better-flowing heads you won't be able to run a very aggressive cam, but motors like that tend to do well with truck or "RV cam" profiles (designed for low-end and mid-range power). 

Heads and pistons will be the bottleneck if you want to make big power. Most smog era motors have a static compression ratio of about 7.5 or 8.0:1 (due to big combustion chambers and dished pistons). 

Check out some old issues of Hot Rod and Car Craft-they used to be big on junkyard build articles.


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## Giovanni (May 13, 2000)

CaleDeRoo said:


> Or used for scene points.




Thank you and what are rolled fenders? Are they rolled on this golf?


----------



## Lucian1988 (Mar 25, 2009)

how do I take this endlink out?  i want it DEAD


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

perhaps a clamp on the boot area, or some kind of wede that pushes out on the joint to keep it from spinning.


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

Vice grips on the stud under the boot.


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## Chockomon (Aug 20, 2005)

Lucian1988 said:


> how do I take this endlink out?  i want it DEAD


Looks like you'll need a wrench and a triple square bit to go on the inside.

I would use a box wrench so you can ratchet it

Triple Square:


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## AlBeezy36 (Jun 25, 2008)

Lucian1988 said:


> how do I take this endlink out?  i want it DEAD


How about this?

Take a grinder and grind it flush with nut. Get drill bit that is same as nut inner diameter or one size larger, and drill on center to depth of nut bottom. Knock off nut with hammer.


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## Chockomon (Aug 20, 2005)

AlBeezy36 said:


> How about this?
> 
> Take a grinder and grind it flush with nut. Get drill bit that is same as nut inner diameter or one size larger, and drill on center to depth of nut bottom. Knock off nut with hammer.


Or use the tools meant for that endlink....

Maybe I missed something. I was under the impression that he did not know how to remove it at all and was just using a socket. if he's just using a socket or a wrench, then the ball on the inside of the link will just spin and spin and spin. He needs to use a triple square bit (from the looks of the endlink) to hold the link in place while he wrenches.


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## AlBeezy36 (Jun 25, 2008)

Chockomon said:


> Or use the tools meant for that endlink....
> 
> Maybe I missed something. I was under the impression that he did not know how to remove it at all and was just using a socket. if he's just using a socket or a wrench, then the ball on the inside of the link will just spin and spin and spin. He needs to use a triple square bit (from the looks of the endlink) to hold the link in place while he wrenches.


Take a closer look at the pic. It looks like half of it is broken off. You're right though, soaking it in penetrant and trying the triple square is still probably best first choice.


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## Chockomon (Aug 20, 2005)

Oh wow I need to get my eyes checked. I saw the white around it and thought he had put some grease on it to help get it out.

I like the idea of taking a dremel and cutting off the nut. Your new end link should come with a new nut anyhow. DREMEL/ANGLE GRIND AWAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I think drilling the center out is the best idea, actually. There's already a hole to get you started, and it's way easier/less damaging to the arm it's attached to than grinding.


----------



## Lucian1988 (Mar 25, 2009)

saron81 said:


> Vice grips on the stud under the boot.


has that worked before? I didnt think one would fit. I'll have to give that a try then!


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

A lot of times end links will also have a cap you can pop off the end with the boot on it, allowing you to access the other end of that stud to grab it while you remove the nut.


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## ncbrock (Sep 28, 2010)

G60 Carat said:


> Drilled or Slotted = Yes, it allows heat and gasses trapped between the brake pad and rotor to escape, keep the pad cooler and chemically "clean". Also helps reduce pad glazing.
> 
> Brembo vs Meyle, you're probably good either way. Either of those 2 brand vs. a cheaper/jobber/off shore whatever you want to call it rotor. Yeah there is a difference. Quality rotors last longer, and are less likely to crack and/or warp. If you track day'ing, avoid budget rotors. Look at ATE slotted for a good quality slotted rotor at an affordable price, and easy to get locally almost anywhere.
> 
> Hawk = :thumbup: EBC = :thumbup: Stoptech = :thumbup:


Cheap rotors are the best for tracking. You're going to be replacing them often anyways, I've had nothing but great success with the cheapest off the shelf rotors from rockauto for all my track cars. You want to avoid drilled/slotted for track especially as they are prone to cracking prematurely. I wouldn't even run them on the street, unless you like the aesthetic look.


----------



## AlBeezy36 (Jun 25, 2008)

Lucian1988 said:


> has that worked before? I didnt think one would fit. I'll have to give that a try then!


Yeah, give it a try. The problem you may run into is that the shaft within the boot is probably a polished surface (similar to ball end) and is sitting in grease. Getting a good grip on it may be tough. I've got a bit of tendonitis in my forearms, so I'm always trying to let the tools do the work. Let us know how many swear words it takes :laugh:


----------



## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

can someone explain the difference between AWD and 4WD ?

I understand you can shift out of 4WD but why not just make it AWD ???


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

bob570 said:


> Is there any real advantage to using slotted or drilled brake rotors over a flat solid rotor?


I run Carbotech XP10's on stock rotors in my VR6. I cannot fade them, and they never warp, even after repeated stops from 120mph.
I would never consider putting drilled or slotted rotors on this level of car. None of them will prove to be as durable as OE rotors, and they will not improve the braking performance.

Spend the extra money on real pads. None of this weekend warrior street/myfirsttrackday garbage. I winced when I shelled out $200 for the Carbotech pads, but they work so ridiculously well, and have lasted for 5 track weekends (with at least 4 more in them). I'd tear through a set of Mintex 1144's or EBC Yellows in a single weekend.


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

skydive_007 said:


> can someone explain the difference between AWD and 4WD ?
> 
> I understand you can shift out of 4WD but why not just make it AWD ???


4WD









AWD


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

skydive_007 said:


> can someone explain the difference between AWD and 4WD ?
> 
> I understand you can shift out of 4WD but why not just make it AWD ???


Ok let me try that again.

They both mean the exact same thing by definition. But in reference to what you are talking about. AWD systems like Subaru and Audi, are full time all wheel drive with a center differential. In reference to 4WD or 4x4, they have a transfer case, which has to no differential. It literally sends equal power to the front and back axles. It can disconnect the front axle (front driveshaft no longer spinning, 2WD only), and also has a low range gear reduction. (hence the 4LO/4HI/2HI) 

But there are some transfer case than can do full time 4 wheel drive.


----------



## aj4066 (Oct 27, 2014)

ncbrock said:


> Cheap rotors are the best for tracking. You're going to be replacing them often anyways, I've had nothing but great success with the cheapest off the shelf rotors from rockauto for all my track cars. You want to avoid drilled/slotted for track especially as they are prone to cracking prematurely. I wouldn't even run them on the street, unless you like the aesthetic look.


Agreed. The rotors job is to absorb heat. It lessens that ability when you remove mass (slot/drill them)

Race teams with big brembos are using rotors designed to absorb the heat and evacuate it, with those slots/holes in mind. An off the shelf Stoptech rotor is simply a blank with a bunch of holes drilled it in. A big brake Brembo kit has had the holes/stots forged into the rotor and internal veining to support it. 

If you are driving hard, buy the cheap blank rotors and be prepared to replace them often. Spend the extra coin on the pad. Oh, and dont forget to use high temp fluid, too :thumbup:


----------



## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

skydive_007 said:


> can someone explain the difference between AWD and 4WD ?
> 
> I understand you can shift out of 4WD but why not just make it AWD ???


4WD you activate, AWD is all wheels, all the time. 

And because AWD isnt always needed, hence 4WD. AWD has more wear and tear, etc


----------



## CaleDeRoo (Jul 30, 2011)

Giovanni said:


> Thank you and what are rolled fenders? Are they rolled on this golf?



Yes they are, and this is what it is.


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

ncbrock said:


> Cheap rotors are the best for tracking. You're going to be replacing them often anyways, I've had nothing but great success with the cheapest off the shelf rotors from rockauto for all my track cars. You want to avoid drilled/slotted for track especially as they are prone to cracking prematurely. I wouldn't even run them on the street, unless you like the aesthetic look.


I've actually heard this advice before from some of the Auto-X guys. But the reason I was told is that race/sport pads are extremely hard on rotors, and you might as well be chewing up cheap ones.


----------



## Nealric (Feb 16, 2013)

aj4066 said:


> Agreed. The rotors job is to absorb heat. It lessens that ability when you remove mass (slot/drill them)
> 
> Race teams with big brembos are using rotors designed to absorb the heat and evacuate it, with those slots/holes in mind. An off the shelf Stoptech rotor is simply a blank with a bunch of holes drilled it in. A big brake Brembo kit has had the holes/stots forged into the rotor and internal veining to support it.
> 
> If you are driving hard, buy the cheap blank rotors and be prepared to replace them often. Spend the extra coin on the pad. Oh, and dont forget to use high temp fluid, too :thumbup:


Yep. I've always understood that drilled rotors are for bling points. Slotted have a debatable value. But blanks are really the way to go for high performance driving.


----------



## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

bob570 said:


> Is there any real advantage to using slotted or drilled brake rotors over a flat solid rotor?
> 
> Is there any real advantage to spending $100 on flat Brembo rotors vs a cheaper $60 Meyle rotor?
> 
> I'd like to do a couple track days this summer and I'm going need to change my pads and rotors before then, and I'd like to avoid brake fade as much as possible. I'm planning on using Hawks HPS 5.0 pads.


Short answer: No, and it's actually a worse choice. Is this your first event? If so, you can get away with the HPS pads, but it you stick with it and get faster, you'll end up needing to switch pads out at the track, at least the fronts. Modern pad compounds don't offgas.




ncbrock said:


> Cheap rotors are the best for tracking. You're going to be replacing them often anyways, I've had nothing but great success with the cheapest off the shelf rotors from rockauto for all my track cars. You want to avoid drilled/slotted for track especially as they are prone to cracking prematurely. I wouldn't even run them on the street, unless you like the aesthetic look.


This guy gets it. :beer:




Surf Green said:


> I run Carbotech XP10's on stock rotors in my VR6. I cannot fade them, and they never warp, even after repeated stops from 120mph.
> I would never consider putting drilled or slotted rotors on this level of car. None of them will prove to be as durable as OE rotors, and they will not improve the braking performance.
> 
> Spend the extra money on real pads. None of this weekend warrior street/myfirsttrackday garbage. I winced when I shelled out $200 for the Carbotech pads, but they work so ridiculously well, and have lasted for 5 track weekends (with at least 4 more in them). I'd tear through a set of Mintex 1144's or EBC Yellows in a single weekend.


I'll second not using anything but plain rotors. Here's an example of what can happen with drilled rotors after a couple of sessions. Glad to hear those Carbotechs are working out. I ran through a set of XP-12s years ago in 5 days at Shenandoah and stuck with Hawk ever since. 















skydive_007 said:


> can someone explain the difference between AWD and 4WD ?
> 
> I understand you can shift out of 4WD but why not just make it AWD ???


 Others have addressed this already, but I'll just chime in by saying 4WD has a selectable transfer case that can lock the front and rear driveshafts together (some have an option to leave it unlocked when full-time mode is selected) and that has an low range. AWD is generally full-time (no 2WD mode) with no low range. Think Audi A4 vs. Jeep Wrangler.


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## gsprobe (Jan 29, 2006)

inquisitive said:


> Why do rappers prefer the '64 impala over other years?


NWA or more specifically EAZY E started this?

Anyway, conveniently "six fo" rhymes with ho...

From Public Enemy, Chuck D loved an Olds 98 while Terminator X had a thing for Jeeps?


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## Lucian1988 (Mar 25, 2009)

skydive_007 said:


> can someone explain the difference between AWD and 4WD ?
> 
> I understand you can shift out of 4WD but why not just make it AWD ???


4WD is great because its useful for towing as well. You shouldnt use 4WD for towing really heavy trailers. 

but 4WD has speed limitations, my old dodge ram said to never go over 55 mph in 4WD, Tundra says never go over 60 in 4WD. 

AWD is just on all the time, perfect for cars or SUVs.


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

Lucian1988 said:


> *4WD is great because its useful for towing as well.* You shouldnt use 4WD for towing really heavy trailers.
> 
> but 4WD has speed limitations, my old dodge ram said to never go over 55 mph in 4WD, Tundra says never go over 60 in 4WD.
> 
> AWD is just on all the time, perfect for cars or SUVs.


Assuming, of course, that you can unlock the center dif.


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

Hawk Pads and basic vented Rotors here, all day long!


More tidbits for AWD VS 4WD:

Want to know why there are speed restrictions on 4WD vehicles? Want to know why they say to not use 4WD on dry pavement? I'ts simple.

There is a transfer case to send power to the front wheels, but there is no differential on true 4WD. This means that both front wheels will always be spinning the same speed, regardless of whether you're turning or going straight. On dry pavement this puts a tremendous amount of strain on the driveline. 

AWD includes a differential in, or associated with, the transfer case. In many applications (transverse mounted engines), the transfer case uses the differential in the transmission. That differential allows the driveshafts to spin at different speeds.

Many newer AWD systems are "on-demand" but have a locking option that will behave like a traditional 4WD system. Speeds are limited in these units for different reasons though. The components in the transfer cases are not built for sustained use, and will simply burn up if they were allowed to operate in full 4WD lock mode beyond speeds of 15-25mph.


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

rstolz said:


> Hawk Pads and basic vented Rotors here, all day long!
> 
> 
> More tidbits for AWD VS 4WD:
> ...


I think what you meant to say is that both the front and rear driveshafts will be spinning at the same speed. There's still a front differential, and the front wheels will turn at different speeds in a corner whether in 2WD or 4WD. Dry pavement causes problems because the front wheels trace a larger diameter circle in a turn that the rears.


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## bob570 (Oct 9, 2010)

Thanks a lot for the advice guys!

I'm honestly not sure how many track days I'll be doing with my car this year, I'm hoping to get my motorcycle out there at some point as well. One of my local racetracks was actually converted from a drag strip into a road course so there's a decently long stretch with a pretty sharp turn at the end, I imagine it'll eat up brakes pretty fast. Maybe I'll have to get some pads specifically for the track, I was hoping to get away with Hawks HPS and high temp fluid but maybe that won't cut it.


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

CaleDeRoo said:


> Yes they are, and this is what it is.


There is several ways to do this but this is definitely the correct way. Just make sure to keep the paint WARM, I have seen several fenders with cracked paint because they were not heated up enough during the process :thumbup:


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## Chockomon (Aug 20, 2005)

What are the benefits/debits of having a more cylinders while maintaining the same displacement? Ex: Nissan 2.5L I4, VW 2.5L I5, Ford 2.5L V6?

I know there's more moving parts as you add more cylinders so there's more complexity, but what are the reasons to having different cylinder amounts?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## AlBeezy36 (Jun 25, 2008)

Chockomon said:


> What are the benefits/debits of having a more cylinders while maintaining the same displacement? Ex: Nissan 2.5L I4, VW 2.5L I5, Ford 2.5L V6?
> 
> I know there's more moving parts as you add more cylinders so there's more complexity, but what are the reasons to having different cylinder amounts?
> 
> ...


Are you asking why OE's pick a I4 over a V6, or why one is better than the other in general?


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## 4.OMG (Dec 20, 2004)

Chockomon said:


> What are the benefits/debits of having a more cylinders while maintaining the same displacement? Ex: Nissan 2.5L I4, VW 2.5L I5, Ford 2.5L V6?
> 
> I know there's more moving parts as you add more cylinders so there's more complexity, but what are the reasons to having different cylinder amounts?
> 
> ...


Different combinations of bores and strokes and numbers of cylinders to arrive at a particular displacement/power curve that will also work with the constraints on the external physical dimensions of the motor.


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## AlBeezy36 (Jun 25, 2008)

4.OMG said:


> Different combinations of bores and strokes and numbers of cylinders to arrive at a particular displacement/power curve that will also work with the constraints on the external physical dimensions of the motor.


This. Throw in cost, power/efficiency goals, and available vetted configurations on-hand I think pretty much sums it up. R&D work is expensive and Engineers are lazy.


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## 4.OMG (Dec 20, 2004)

AlBeezy36 said:


> This. Throw in cost, power/efficiency goals, and available vetted configurations on-hand I think pretty much sums it up. R&D work is expensive and Engineers are lazy.


R&D/engineering/production constraints is another good point. It's expensive to retool a foundry to cast new blocks, cranks and heads, so there's an obvious incentive to stick with what works even if a different or better option theoretically exists.


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## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

Not a question im afraid to ask so to speak, but i havent found an answer anywhere else.

Why do some late model sports cars have windows that slightly roll down when you open the door, and roll back up into place when you close it?

A witnessed a friends 370z do it a few years ago, and during Furious 7 last night i saw Letty's challenger do it also


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## Lucian1988 (Mar 25, 2009)

RacerrRex said:


> Not a question im afraid to ask so to speak, but i havent found an answer anywhere else.
> 
> Why do some late model sports cars have windows that slightly roll down when you open the door, and roll back up into place when you close it?
> 
> A witnessed a friends 370z do it a few years ago, and during Furious 7 last night i saw Letty's challenger do it also


are they frameless doors? its so that the window slides into the top, causing a tighter seal and less road noise. plenty cars have it my CC has it as well.


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## RacerrRex (Nov 21, 2008)

Lucian1988 said:


> are they frameless doors? its so that the window slides into the top, causing a tighter seal and less road noise. plenty cars have it my CC has it as well.


They probbaly are, i havent noticed but that would make sense


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## THE KILLER RABBIT (Jun 2, 2003)

lets say you have average credit and you want to make sure you get the best finance rate. what would be the process for getting a loan at your own bank or credit union. do you walk in and say i need $XX.xx what rate can you give me for that specific amount. or are there more questions involved like what are you going to use it for, et. al. secondly, how do you know how much of an actual loan you will need if you have not negotiated a price on a car yet? does the bank just give you the interest rate and then let you come back an request how much you need?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Lucian1988 said:


> are they frameless doors? its so that the window slides into the top, causing a tighter seal and less road noise. plenty cars have it my CC has it as well.


My Cabrio has frameless doors (of course), but they don't drop down. It sucks because the seal gets chewed up with age. The glass is slightly limp in the track, so it falls onto and slide up the frame, but as it ages, this works less and less well, and I end up catching a section of rubber in the door and have awful wind noise.


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

RacerrRex said:


> Why do some late model sports cars have windows that slightly roll down when you open the door, and roll back up into place when you close it?


As mentioned above, this is to allow the window to move up into a channel in the door seal, this tech originally debuted on BMW 8 series cars in the Early 90's and was made possible through the use of CAN bus and micro switches on the interior and exterior door handles.


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## AlBeezy36 (Jun 25, 2008)

I always thought it was to allow the doors to shut easier. The slight crack in the window allows air to pass as the door shuts. I figured the more expensive cars, with their tighter seals caused issues when shutting the doors. Like if you've ever shut doors at the same time and bellowing effect slows the doors down?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

AlBeezy36 said:


> I always thought it was to allow the doors to shut easier. The slight crack in the window allows air to pass as the door shuts. I figured the more expensive cars, with their tighter seals caused issues when shutting the doors. Like if you've ever shut doors at the same time and bellowing effect slows the doors down?


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## AlBeezy36 (Jun 25, 2008)

Boom


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## tyintegra (Sep 14, 2010)

THE KILLER RABBIT said:


> lets say you have average credit and you want to make sure you get the best finance rate. what would be the process for getting a loan at your own bank or credit union. do you walk in and say i need $XX.xx what rate can you give me for that specific amount. or are there more questions involved like what are you going to use it for, et. al. secondly, how do you know how much of an actual loan you will need if you have not negotiated a price on a car yet? does the bank just give you the interest rate and then let you come back an request how much you need?


Go to your banks website and go to the loans section and click apply for an auto loan. This will most likely show you that banks rates. You should do this for a lot of banks and see which ones are showing the best rates.

Once you have found the bank that looks like will offer the best rate, then you will need to apply for the loan through that same section. They will ask you for all of your income details and for your SSN to be able to pull your credit. They will also ask for the cost of the car (include purchase price and all applicable fees in this figure). After you submit this, someone from the bank will most likely call you in 24 hours to discuss it with you and give the final approval and the official rate they will offer you.

When you are approved, they will give you a preauthorization letter that you can take to the dealership.


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

AlBeezy36 said:


> I always thought it was to allow the doors to shut easier. The slight crack in the window allows air to pass as the door shuts. I figured the more expensive cars, with their tighter seals caused issues when shutting the doors. Like if you've ever shut doors at the same time and bellowing effect slows the doors down?


Most modern cars use a pressure release vent hidden under the rear bumper cover to vent pressure (The black rectangle in the pic below)










The purpose of the auto drop is to allow a frameless window to pass under the lip of the seal and then raise to provide an effective seal. This provides the most positive seal with the force in vertical plane with the window glass, where does not leverage against the glass. 

The lip also functions to prevent the glass from pulling away from the seal at higher speeds where the pressure differential pushes the glass outward.

As you can see in this pic, the top 1/8" of the window is captured in the seal


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## THE KILLER RABBIT (Jun 2, 2003)

tyintegra said:


> Go to your banks website and go to the loans section and click apply for an auto loan. This will most likely show you that banks rates. You should do this for a lot of banks and see which ones are showing the best rates.
> 
> Once you have found the bank that looks like will offer the best rate, then you will need to apply for the loan through that same section. They will ask you for all of your income details and for your SSN to be able to pull your credit. They will also ask for the cost of the car (include purchase price and all applicable fees in this figure). After you submit this, someone from the bank will most likely call you in 24 hours to discuss it with you and give the final approval and the official rate they will offer you.
> 
> When you are approved, they will give you a preauthorization letter that you can take to the dealership.


ok so if you get PREauthorized for say 10k but for what ever reason you need 15K what do you do while you are at the dealer.


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## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

Yes, I have a question: 


What if they paved all the roads in pure RUBBER ... and then made car tires out of concrete. Don't you think that tire / wheel theft would be reduced and you could get more mileage life out of the tires while the rubber roads would always be free from cracks and potholes? I'd say that would be a win-win situation.


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

82Turbo930 said:


> Yes, I have a question:
> 
> 
> What if they paved all the roads in pure RUBBER ... and then made car tires out of concrete. Don't you think that tire / wheel theft would be reduced and you could get more mileage life out of the tires while the rubber roads would always be free from cracks and potholes? I'd say that would be a win-win situation.


In general, concrete does not have the structural properties to withstand the forces associated with the rotational speeds required for modern travel nor the impact resistance to provide a usable lifespan .

PS: pass that ****, it must be good


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## tyintegra (Sep 14, 2010)

THE KILLER RABBIT said:


> ok so if you get PREauthorized for say 10k but for what ever reason you need 15K what do you do while you are at the dealer.


I can't remember exactly? When you are doing your application with them estimate on the high side. Also, you will end up talking to someone on the phone and possibly in person from the bank, you can always ask them.

When I got preapproved for a loan, my goal was to just have it as a backup in case the dealership couldn't get me a better rate. So I would still recommend seeing what the dealer can do. For example, I was pre approved for 3 something percent but VW was able to give me 2.19 %


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## AlBeezy36 (Jun 25, 2008)

Makes sense hognhominy. Do they ever do it on a framed glass then?


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

AlBeezy36 said:


> Makes sense hognhominy. Do they ever do it on a framed glass then?


I have never seen it used on a framed window


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

Chockomon said:


> What are the benefits/debits of having a more cylinders while maintaining the same displacement? Ex: Nissan 2.5L I4, VW 2.5L I5, Ford 2.5L V6?
> 
> I know there's more moving parts as you add more cylinders so there's more complexity, but what are the reasons to having different cylinder amounts?
> 
> ...


It smoothes out the power delivery too. Overly simplified, think of each engine making the same 2.5L of 'power'. The I4 makes the 2.5L of power it in 4 bigger power thumps while the V6 makes the same power in 6 smaller thumps in the same time, make it smoother.
A more extreme example you van hear is a 600cc single cyl dirt bike with thumping power strokes vs a 600cc I4 sportsbike which is more a buzz then whine.

Sent from my microwave oven.


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## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

I'm sure this is not exclusive to Volkswagen Eos, but when you remove the key from the ignition (just as when you unlock the doors from outside using the fob), both windows drop in anticipation of the doors being opened.

* Window tinting guys trick the system by moving the latches to the closed position on frameless doors when opened, so they can cover the bottom half-inch of glass that usually drops.

* Sometimes ice can interfere with the dropdown feature, requiring the door to be opened with care in case the window stays frozen up (most doors are designed to be able to open no matter what, but you don't want to pull too fast).


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## Giovanni (May 13, 2000)

If a AWD car breaks down or gets disabled for any reason and needs a tow, it has to be towed away on a flatbed truck?
It can't be towed with a regular tow truck because of the AWD?


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## omgwtfbbq! (Jan 17, 2010)

Giovanni said:


> If a AWD car breaks down or gets disabled for any reason and needs a tow, it has to be towed away on a flatbed truck?
> It can't be towed with a regular tow truck because of the AWD?


Most AWD systems will be damaged if the rear wheels are rolling and the front wheels are not. In a car with Quattro, for instance, the center diff would be destroyed. I'm sure theres an exception to that, but best practice is to request a flat bed.


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## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

hognhominy said:


> In general, concrete does not have the structural properties to withstand the forces associated with the rotational speeds required for modern travel nor the impact resistance to provide a usable lifespan .
> 
> PS: pass that ****, it must be good


Well  That was a Debbie Downer response. How about if it's reinforced with rebar


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## omgwtfbbq! (Jan 17, 2010)

Nah, concrete is great under compression, which makes it perfect for construction work. Unfortunately it is very weak under tension, so a concrete wheel would break apart at any significant rotational velocity. It would also be very heavy, and very unforgiving if you hit debris or left the road surface.


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

hognhominy said:


> I have never seen it used on a framed window


BMW i8. Framed window, but drops a bit when you open the door. Here, though, it's for pressure control when you're closing the door. 
Otherwise, yes, it's done for better sealing of the side glass.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

I have two car-related questions that I've been wondering about for a little time:

1. After a dyno pull (or even a long and hard acceleration on a highway for example) why do some keep revving the engine once the dyno run / pull is over?






2. Exactly what "safety equipment" is equipped on world cars to make them gain such significant weight from european specifications to north american specification? And being so strict, why wouldn't Euro NCAP enforce the same application of such safety equipment?

For example, the Alfa Romeo 4C:

Euro Spec: 2,153 lbs
N/A Spec: 2,495 lbs


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

worth_fixing said:


> I have two car-related questions that I've been wondering about for a little time:
> 
> 1. After a dyno pull (or even a long and hard acceleration on a highway for example) why do some keep revving the engine once the dyno run / pull is over?


During the run, you are generating a significant amount of heat. keeping the engine above idle(revving) keeps oil pressure up, and coolant circulating. 



> 2. Exactly what "safety equipment" is equipped on world cars to make them gain such significant weight from european specifications to north american specification? And being so strict, why wouldn't Euro NCAP enforce the same application of such safety equipment?


Not too sure on the 4C specifically, but in general there is equipment that may not actually be needed for performance but is required due to antiquated regulatory requirements. such as:
Higher/stronger bumpers
Anti intrusion door bars 
Additional material behind the bumpers
Bumper shocks
Additional sound deadening (not required but may be added for NVH concerns in the US market)
Additional airbags


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## AZGolf (Jun 6, 2000)

worth_fixing said:


> 2. Exactly what "safety equipment" is equipped on world cars to make them gain such significant weight from european specifications to north american specification? And being so strict, why wouldn't Euro NCAP enforce the same application of such safety equipment?
> 
> For example, the Alfa Romeo 4C:
> 
> ...


According to a quick Bing search:

"While the Alfa Romeo 4C that goes on sale in Europe this month weighs in at 1973 pounds, the American version will weigh 2193 pounds when it hits our shores early next year. According to Pierallini, the weight gain is due to aluminum inserts in the carbon fiber chassis, as well as additional gas tank and fuel line protection, and equipment to meet U.S. emission standards."

As for the different safety & emissions standards, there is currently regulation ongoing since 2009 to harmonize US, Canadian, and EU member nation standards for crash & emissions. It may actually finally harmonize around 2025 or so. Another alternative is that cars designed for one standard can then be sold in the other continent, but I see this as cheating, as automakers would simply build to whoever has the lowest standards available, and ship that as their global offering.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

AZGolf said:


> According to a quick Bing search:
> 
> "While the Alfa Romeo 4C that goes on sale in Europe this month weighs in at 1973 pounds, the American version will weigh 2193 pounds when it hits our shores early next year. According to Pierallini, the weight gain is due to aluminum inserts in the carbon fiber chassis, as well as additional gas tank and fuel line protection, and equipment to meet U.S. emission standards."
> 
> As for the different safety & emissions standards, there is currently regulation ongoing since 2009 to harmonize US, Canadian, and EU member nation standards for crash & emissions. It may actually finally harmonize around 2025 or so. Another alternative is that cars designed for one standard can then be sold in the other continent, but I see this as cheating, as automakers would simply build to whoever has the lowest standards available, and ship that as their global offering.


i could be wrong, but i wouldn't be surprised if the NA version has more active protection like side-curtain airbags, seat-mounted airbags while the EU version does not. I could be way off tho.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

hognhominy said:


> During the run, you are generating a significant amount of heat. keeping the engine above idle(revving) keeps oil pressure up, and coolant circulating.


Which makes total sense, but wouldn't you simply want to keep it at a stable rpm and not fluctuate?

Also, why would you want to cool it down so fast? It's already reached a high temperature (possibly the highest as soon as the run is over), I would opt for slower cooling rather than rapid cooling. If you try to cool everything too fast, wouldn't you see the consequences of the various metals and alloys' different rates of thermal expansion at work? Slower cooling wouldn't widen the gap so much.

Please correct me if I'm wrong.


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## hognhominy (Jan 31, 2005)

worth_fixing said:


> Which makes total sense, but wouldn't you simply want to keep it at a stable rpm and not fluctuate?


 Like many things, the idea that you should do it is more pervasive than the reasons why or the proper method for doing so. Yes, maintaining a stable rpm would maintain a more stable oil pressure. However, some engines rely on secondary splash lubrication, varying RPM varies the splash patterns. I'm sure one method is better than the other for some miniscule reason, but basically 6 of one half dozen of the other, Cool guy=revving, normal people=varying rpm above idle.


> Also, why would you want to cool it down so fast? It's already reached a high temperature (possibly the highest as soon as the run is over), I would opt for slower cooling rather than rapid cooling. If you try to cool everything too fast, wouldn't you see the consequences of the various metals and alloys' different rates of thermal expansion at work? Slower cooling wouldn't widen the gap so much.


It's not so much about slower or faster cooling, but preventing localized boiling. It will still take some time to stabilize system wide temperatures after a dyno run.


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## elmer fud (Aug 5, 2003)

For the dyno run thing... In that video posted I have no idea why he was bliping the throttle, But a lot of the time they bring engine speed down with the dyno, Those rollers in this case have a lot of Kintic energy stored in them, and even if you shut the motor off the rollers are going to roll for awhile. In Fact if you were dumb and slammed the brakes on it would not stop the rollers it would just burn flat spots in the tires...... Yes you can put it in neutral and then let the dyno slow, but if you leave it In gear and keep the engine running you can slow the dyno a bit using engine braking. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Kumamon (Jun 13, 2012)

I'm thinking about taking the Prelude out of storage tomorrow. It's been in there for ~3 months. Anything particular I should/should not do? I'm guessing it'll be fine, but I've never had it stored this long before, so I don't know if I need to do anything special or not.


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## The Holy Molar (Jun 13, 2004)

Did you make any preparations before storing it? The only time I stored a car was my my MKV Rabbit a few years ago. All I did was leave it on some crappy all season, filled up with gas, and disconnect the battery. Six months later connected the battery and it fired right up. I made sure to change the oil shortly after that. I'm curious if I should do more since I'll be storing my car for half a year here again soon.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

hognhominy said:


> Like many things, the idea that you should do it is more pervasive than the reasons why or the proper method for doing so. Yes, maintaining a stable rpm would maintain a more stable oil pressure. However, some engines rely on secondary splash lubrication, varying RPM varies the splash patterns. I'm sure one method is better than the other for some miniscule reason, but basically 6 of one half dozen of the other, Cool guy=revving, normal people=varying rpm above idle.
> 
> It's not so much about slower or faster cooling, but preventing localized boiling. It will still take some time to stabilize system wide temperatures after a dyno run.


hmm, food for thought. Thanks for the feedback! :thumbup: :beer:


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## 4.OMG (Dec 20, 2004)

Crimping Is Easy said:


> I'm thinking about taking the Prelude out of storage tomorrow. It's been in there for ~3 months. Anything particular I should/should not do? I'm guessing it'll be fine, but I've never had it stored this long before, so I don't know if I need to do anything special or not.


3 months is nothing. Re-connect the battery and fire it up. You may want to top off your tires and put fresh gas in, depending on how full (or not full) the tank was when you parked it.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Be sure to pull the dipstick and check the fluid level on the trans too.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I'm comparing the cost of a diesel to the cost of a gas car (2012 Golf, to be exact). Is my maths right?

DIESEL	GAS
price	$4.01	$3.47
TDI 2.5
city	30 23
hwy	42 33
avg	36 28


DOLLAR PER MILE	
city $0.13	$0.15
highway	$0.10	$0.11
average	$0.11	$0.12

cost to drive/year	$2,504.38	$2,785.98


I drive 22,500 miles a year, just to work and back. Looking at a new commuter car. The fuel prices were the average for 2014 for the New England region from here:
http://www.eia.gov/dnav/pet/pet_pri_gnd_dcus_nus_w.htm

I took the average fuel cost and divided it by the MPG to get cost/mile. Then I multiplied that by 22,500 miles per year. 

When I plugged the numbers in for just March 2015, the were opposite (the gas car was cheaper to drive) but I perferred a yearly average. 

Just trying to see if diesel still is cheaper to drive for my requirements.


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## omgwtfbbq! (Jan 17, 2010)

Factor in the difference in average sale price and you'll have your answer, but at 22.5k a year I'd bet the diesel is the better choice.


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## Lucian1988 (Mar 25, 2009)

VDub2625 said:


> I'm comparing the cost of a diesel to the cost of a gas car (2012 Golf, to be exact). Is my maths right?
> 
> DIESEL	GAS
> price	$4.01	$3.47
> ...



since you are doing so much driving, i assume itll be mostly highway right? my sister has a 2012 Jetta Tdi, gets about 42 mpg on highway and mixed driving, my dad has a passat, he gets about 46 mpg driving a heck ton too. over 800 miles per tank (but passat has a 17 gallon tank)


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## shepherdgti (Jan 5, 2011)

Has anyone ever bought a car in Canada and brought it back to the US? 

The car that I want to purchase was originally bought in the US, and the second owner imported it to Canada. Now I want to bring it back to the US ('Merica), but I am not clear as to what I will need to do so.

I want to avoid paying an excise tax or federal tax if possible, as I will also have to pay state sales tax when I register it in PA. I plan on stopping by my local DMV today to find out more details, but any ideas would be appreciated thanks.


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## Seabird (Feb 8, 2002)

I don't know if this question has been asked, but it has nagged at me for years and I can't ever remember to post it when this thread pops up...

Why is the brake pedal higher up than the gas pedal? Anyone have any idea? Seems like in an emergency stop it would make more sense to slide the foot left and down to the brake, rather than having to lift it higher as you bring it to the left.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

Seabird said:


> I don't know if this question has been asked, but it has nagged at me for years and I can't ever remember to post it when this thread pops up...
> 
> Why is the brake pedal higher up than the gas pedal? Anyone have any idea? Seems like in an emergency stop it would make more sense to slide the foot left and down to the brake, rather than having to lift it higher as you bring it to the left.


Just a thought, but if you were to accidentally press both pedals, you would start pressing the brakes first.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

Seabird said:


> Why is the brake pedal higher up than the gas pedal? Anyone have any idea? Seems like in an emergency stop it would make more sense to slide the foot left and down to the brake, rather than having to lift it higher as you bring it to the left.


i often wonder why it's like that as well. :thumbup:


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## Lucian1988 (Mar 25, 2009)

2 questions.... what causes rev hang? sometimes, ill press on the gas while in neutral, and it will rev up and hang there at 2 or 3K rpm for a sec or two, then go down. then while driving, i go shift and itll drop revs down instantly almost. 


2nd question, i was checking out my belt, and i find this: 

grooves in it. im at 60K miles. 










then i look at the pulley, and notice this: 










time to replace? Would this cause slight engine vibrations at idle?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Rev hang is done by the ECU. It's for emissions purposes. Snapping the throttle closed before the ECU has a chance to turn down the fuel results in a blip of richness, which is bad for HC emissions and the cat, IIRC. The reason it doesn't do it when shifting is, I assume, the ECU knows you're clutching.

Accessory belts, meh, I usually wait until they get cracks in the ribs. Slight vibrations could be an number of things, but motor mounts getting old is a possibility I would check first. I wouldn't be concerned until it starts getting intrusive.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

Lucian1988 said:


> time to replace? Would this cause slight engine vibrations at idle?


A worn belt generally won't cause a vibration, but a malfunctioning Alternator Pulley (assuming it's a clutched pulley) would. I've replaced bad pulleys in my both my TDI and our old Chrysler minivan.
They're designed to freewheel in one direction. When they fail, they start to lock up, and vibrate everything in the accessory path. If left long enough they'll destroy the belt and tensioner (at the very least).

My belt/idler looked a lot like that, and I just left it alone until it started to squeal. Then I replaced the tensioner, the belt, and the idler pulley. I don't remember how old the belt was, but the rest of the bits had 160,000 miles on them, so I didn't overthink it, and replaced everything while I had it apart.

The new belt was significantly thicker than the old one, so I assume the old one was pretty severely worn.


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## Lucian1988 (Mar 25, 2009)

hmmmm okay. 

im at 61K miles now, maybe I can wait until next summer, when the car will be paid off, I will have more money and then I can replace the chain tensioner too. this way I get all the stuff done at once.


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

Lucian1988 said:


> 2 questions.... what causes rev hang? sometimes, ill press on the gas while in neutral, and it will rev up and hang there at 2 or 3K rpm for a sec or two, then go down. then while driving, i go shift and itll drop revs down instantly almost.


rev hang - sitting in neutral the engine is not under load, there's nothing dragging on the crankshaft. When in drive, the transmission, and therefore the wheels, the weight of the car, friction and road all work to put load on the crankshaft that slows and stops it from spinning.

that's the difference between drive and neutral. 

Now lets talk neutral only. the rotational mass of the flywheel has a lot to do with why, and how long, revs will hang when pushing the accelerator in neutral. Think of it like spinning a top. a very light top with a small diameter lip is very easy to spin, but won't stay spinning very long. a big heave top will take more effort to start spinning, but will stay spinning much longer. This is also why race cars and folks modding sports cars use "lightweight flywheels". They gain and drop revs quicker, for better engine response.

They come from the factory rather heavy, because it makes for a smoother day to day drive.


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## jsausley (Dec 2, 2011)

A.Wilder said:


> i often wonder why it's like that as well. :thumbup:


It's a remnant from the days of manual transmission and heel-toe downshifting. When the brake is depressed under normal slowing conditions, it should be level with the accelerator pedal's natural position, so that you may roll your foot from the brake pedal to the gas pedal for a proper rev match.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

Lucian1988 said:


> hmmmm okay.
> 
> im at 61K miles now, maybe I can wait until next summer, when the car will be paid off, I will have more money and then I can replace the chain tensioner too. this way I get all the stuff done at once.


You can test the alternator pulley by pulling the serpentine belt off, and spinning the alternator by hand both ways, and seeing if the pulley freewheels in one direction.

And by "tensioner", I just mean the serpentine belt tensioner. Shouldn't have anything to do with the chains, unless you know you've got other problems? 
I replaced this stuff in about 2 hours after work, and the total cost or parts was like $140.


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## Lucian1988 (Mar 25, 2009)

Surf Green said:


> You can test the alternator pulley by pulling the serpentine belt off, and spinning the alternator by hand both ways, and seeing if the pulley freewheels in one direction.
> 
> And by "tensioner", I just mean the serpentine belt tensioner. Shouldn't have anything to do with the chains, unless you know you've got other problems?
> I replaced this stuff in about 2 hours after work, and the total cost or parts was like $140.


yea, i was talking about both tensioners. I want to replace the timing chain tensioner due to fear that my 2.0T has the bad tensioner, since I bought it May 2011. more info here: 

http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47128


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

Lucian1988 said:


> yea, i was talking about both tensioners. I want to replace the timing chain tensioner due to fear that my 2.0T has the bad tensioner


Yikes.


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## GoHomeBroke (Nov 15, 2014)

so the spring from my clutch pedal fell out today. i'm guessing this has something to do with pedal travel and helping it maintain some pressure. is this an integral part of the clutch or can i just leave it out? there's still some pressure behind it but it's noticeably less stiff.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Mostly for pedal feel, and to help it return up and make it easier to push down. I'd suggest replacing it, since it can have an affect on wear parts.


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## GoHomeBroke (Nov 15, 2014)

VDub2625 said:


> Mostly for pedal feel, and to help it return up and make it easier to push down. I'd suggest replacing it, since it can have an affect on wear parts.


replace it i shall. thanks for the info. :beer:


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## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

Can I expect to get this tightening/alignment for free?

6 months ago, I replaced my rear camber arms on my 08 Mazda 3. I was told that they had reached the end of their adjustment, needed to go with a different design for further adjustment. Ended up asking the parts guy at my local Mazda dealer what to get, and he recommended a jobber part they didn't sell. Bought a similar design, my mechanic installed it, then sent my car to the local Mazda dealer to get it aligned. To align the car, they need to adjust the adjustable camber arm, so they were the last to touch it! Everything went well, car has been solid for 5.5 months.

Fast forward to last week when I installed my summer tires, the rear camber arm (right corner) is lose. I heard a small noise prior to noticing the part was lose.

So 6-months, and something they touched is now lose. This throws my alignment off, therefore I also need a new alignment.

Do you think I should expect them to fix what they didn't do right for free? Don't tell me that its normal to adjust it every 6-months.

Thanks :beer:


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Won't hurt to ask, but I wouldn't hold my breath.


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## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

ok, sooo  this one was keeping me awake last night....

Say if you bolted or welded 2 F15 F100 turbine engines to each side of a 67 Impala fastback and put some really good tires on the car, how fast do you think you could get it going on a 100 mile straight away?  And what kind of brakes are recommended in this application, semi metallic or full metallic (harder on the discs)? Would an aluminum wing on the back be a benefit or would it just blow off? 

There is no math required, just use your best guess. Thanks for your consideration.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

It would go fast. 

Brakes wouldn't matter.

A wing of unobtanium would be best.

Ludicrous speed for sure.


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## omgwtfbbq! (Jan 17, 2010)

82Turbo930 said:


> Say if you bolted or welded 2 F15 F100 turbine engines to each side of a 67 Impala fastback and put some really good tires on the car, how fast do you think you could get it going on a 100 mile straight away?



Probably close to R17 I'd say :beer:


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Canada Specific

Can an individual be charged with a violation of the CMVSR or CMVTSR? Or are these regulations only for new manufactures of automobiles (also infant seats) and tires?

If you can be charged What are the fines for said violations?


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## J2G (Aug 9, 2012)

Why do my car's clutch hydraulics still have no pressure? :banghead:


About a month ago, I decided to change the slave cylinder. The car was showing symptoms of one of the cylinders going bad (holding the clutch pedal down for more than one second and the clutch would start to re-engage, pedal would come up slower than normal).

Ended up breaking the fitting on the clutch line during that job. My friend and I were able to jerry rig a compression fitting onto the clutch line so I could limp it home. With the compression fitting, the old master, line, and new slave the system held about half as much pressure as normal.

Drove it home, parked it. Got a master, slave, and line from a junkyard Accord. Installed the junkyard master and line with the new slave. 

Tried bleeding using a clear tube attached to the slave's bleeder valve, the other end submerged in brake fluid, and a buddy pumping the pedal while I open/close the valve. *Fluid is moving through the tube.* But after an hour and a half, pressure won't build.

When installed, the line and master were virtually completely dry. I didn't bench bleed the master cylinder. Do I just need to keep bleeding? Is there maybe stubborn air in the line? Could the master cylinder be damaged?


Looking for help - my car has been out of commission for a month now because of this.


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## omgwtfbbq! (Jan 17, 2010)

Dry sitting in a junkyard, I'd bet the system is shot. Get new parts and use those.


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## palakaman (Oct 8, 2006)

I don't really understand "clean title" vs "salvaged title".

How can this be a salvaged title? Obviously it was repaired, but says "there was no frame damage".










And this have a clean title? Looks like it got in a fight with a combine. 










:screwy:

I got the pics and title status from some ebay ads.


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## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

palakaman said:


> I got the pics and title status from some ebay ads.


 Or from the 20 minute class you attend before conducting business at Carmax.

In California, salvaged indicates that an insurance company deemed the car not worth restoring -- whether body damage, flood/electrical or simply buying seats to replace stolen ones.

A car can be heavily damaged and the repairs paid for by the owner; and never reported to the DMV. Thus a "clean title" car with a history of extensive repair.


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## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

omgwtfbbq! said:


> Dry sitting in a junkyard, I'd bet the system is shot. Get new parts and use those.


Seriously. They're not expensive parts from the auto store.


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## J2G (Aug 9, 2012)

omgwtfbbq! said:


> Dry sitting in a junkyard, I'd bet the system is shot. Get new parts and use those.





ThreadBomber said:


> Seriously. They're not expensive parts from the auto store.


Well, it wasn't really a junkyard. Guy was parting it before sending it to one, and I know the car was running recently. A new master, slave, and line is over $300.


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## the brit (Jun 23, 2003)

J2G said:


> Why do my car's clutch hydraulics still have no pressure? :banghead:




Clutch bleeding can often require a different method than brake bleeding. It varies, so search about the interwebs. I've had good success with power bleeders to solve it.
The seals can dry out annoyingly quickly if a used one is left inverted or completely out of fluid. I do not know why new ones are fine, but can only imagine that once they're got fluid on them and it evaporates or something, yeah, I have no idea.
Maybe there's a small air-leak in the clutch hydraulic lines?


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## omgwtfbbq! (Jan 17, 2010)

New ones will have assembly grease to stop the seals from drying out.


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## the brit (Jun 23, 2003)

omgwtfbbq! said:


> New ones will have assembly grease to stop the seals from drying out.


Nice :thumbup:


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## Brett92 (Nov 20, 2002)

What parts of a brake pad should be greased with the anti-squeal paste? I replaced my wife's brakes on her 2013 Altima and applied it to the metal backing, but not to the ends that slide into the brass caliper clip (if that makes sense). BTW, is it a problem if the brass looking clip pops off. I just simply re-snapped it back in place, but there is a tiny amount of play, which again I'm not sure if normal.

Here's a picture of the clip/bracket in question (brass looking thing at the top and bottom). The bottom one fell off, but I snapped back on. Not my picture by the way.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

You are supposed to grease where the pad sits on the carrier, and those are anti-rattle clips. When the pad moves in and out from the rotor, that's where it slides, and where squeal can come from. The clips can be old and worn, but they should still work. Usually you get new clips with factory pads, or re-use them, or don't use them at all (and get some noise).

The pad backing plate should not be greased. In fact I have seen pads with a sticky backing to make them stay on the caliper piston.


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## Brett92 (Nov 20, 2002)

Wow, I feel like a bonehead, but it feels good knowing the right way. Ive changed brake pads a few times in my life and haven't had any issues, so assumed i was doing it right. I can't get over the grease on the backing, I thought for sure that it needed it. I feel so enlightened now - thanks!  :thumbup:


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

Grease on the backing plate can help keep the pads from squealing.


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## Spoooolin (Mar 31, 2015)

IJM said:


> Grease on the backing plate can help keep the pads from squealing.


No. False.


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## Fiatdude (Jan 2, 2015)

The Squeal is a very high Frequency chatter -- -- the stuff they sell to apply to the back of the pads is just a "semi-glue" which binds the pads to the calipers and limits/reduces the pad from moving or squealing -- I've used it in the past on street cars with good results, It usually burns off from the high temps on the race car with full metallic pads.... Grease/oil/brake fluid is not your friend around brake pads and rotors, use it very sparingly and usually only where there is a rubber containment for it -- the heat generated in the brakes usually kills greases ability to provide any lubrication and only ends up collecting dirt and brake dust.......






AS far as the Clutch slave/master issue -- What fluid did you put into the system????? Some of the new stuff doesn't play nice when mixed or even with some seals used in the older stuff..... and some of the new pieces/seals don't like the older fluids either.....

BUT trying to get a Hydraulic clutch system to bleed (especially when converting a ACVW to Hyd) is one of the hardest things to do on earth -- the Master has to be bench bled,,,, the lines have to be completely filled with fluid -- 1/4" of air in a small line and you're screwed -- I usually bench bleed the master, then attach the line to it on the bench and fill all the lines forcing fluid uphill, then install the slave (remember to limit it's ability to move) and partially/mostly fill it , break everthing apart, cap off the line and openings on the slave (I try to keep the line attached at the master if possible) and install everything leaving only the finish bleeding of the slave -- -- It's a bitch doing it this way, BUT I've never had to fight it once it is installed..... or if it isn't gonna work you know before all the hassle of installing it.....


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Wow, I must have gotten lucky. I installed a new master/slave (with used line) when I swapped from 020 to 02A. Being simpler than brakes, it seemed easy. I just let the fluid fill the master, and left the slave open until fluid started coming out, then properly bled it. it might be different though, since the slave is the only bleeder on my car. Don't some have a bleeder on the master too?


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

J2G said:


> Why do my car's clutch hydraulics still have no pressure? :banghead:
> 
> 
> About a month ago, I decided to change the slave cylinder. The car was showing symptoms of one of the cylinders going bad (holding the clutch pedal down for more than one second and the clutch would start to re-engage, pedal would come up slower than normal).
> ...


bench bleed the master. Air pockets get stuck in the cylinders and won't bleed out. Happens with brake masters too. Also I don't use junkyard parts for hydraulic systems. they fail enough on their own, it's not worth the risk of buying a bad used one.


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

VDub2625 said:


> Wow, I must have gotten lucky. I installed a new master/slave (with used line) when I swapped from 020 to 02A. Being simpler than brakes, it seemed easy. I just let the fluid fill the master, and left the slave open until fluid started coming out, then properly bled it. it might be different though, since the slave is the only bleeder on my car. Don't some have a bleeder on the master too?


Truth there, some do have bleeders on the master.


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## KeiCar (Jul 23, 2002)

Is there a way to completely suppress / eliminate alternator whine(noise)?

I tried in some older cars by replacing the alternator itself (old one died out anyway), new battery, new battery ground (cleaned all ground points), new alternator 12v+ leads, upgraded radio / amp wiring, separation of supply (12v) and source (A/V, speaker, video leads).

Usually nothing works. Maybe the noise lessens, but never totally goes away.


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## Marc86Golf2 (Jul 21, 2005)

do they make an automatic s2000


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## KeiCar (Jul 23, 2002)

Thankfully no.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

KeiCar said:


> Is there a way to completely suppress / eliminate alternator whine(noise)?
> 
> I tried in some older cars by replacing the alternator itself (old one died out anyway), new battery, new battery ground (cleaned all ground points), new alternator 12v+ leads, upgraded radio / amp wiring, separation of supply (12v) and source (A/V, speaker, video leads).
> 
> Usually nothing works. Maybe the noise lessens, but never totally goes away.


Do you mean alternator noise in audio? There are filters/supressors that install on some alternators to lessen that, and I have seen cheaper alternators omit these things. Don't know if they can be added though.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

KeiCar said:


> Is there a way to completely suppress / eliminate alternator whine(noise)?
> 
> I tried in some older cars by replacing the alternator itself (old one died out anyway), new battery, new battery ground (cleaned all ground points), new alternator 12v+ leads, upgraded radio / amp wiring, separation of supply (12v) and source (A/V, speaker, video leads).
> 
> Usually nothing works. Maybe the noise lessens, but never totally goes away.


If you have good grounds, its a fault in the equipment. 
With modern hi-volt preamp outputs I have ran rca's on top of the power wire with no noise. Even the 1.5 volt entry level stuff that everyone has out rejects noise well. And nearly all the mainstream amplifiers now have differential inputs that block out noise. 

Some radios (3-10year old pioneers) are really sensitive to rcas being pulled when the radio is on. Pops an internal fuse on the signal ground, and now you have an unshielded signal. On the pioneers, you could hear the CD motor spin up through the speakers. But it can happen to any stereo.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

VDub2625 said:


> Do you mean alternator noise in audio? There are filters/supressors that install on some alternators to lessen that, and I have seen cheaper alternators omit these things. *Don't know if they can be added though.*


Indeed they can. You can buy aftermarket ones and in a pinch you can make one yourself. I'm not knowledgable in this area, as it's my brother's field of expertise. He had a buzz on AM radio (he's adamant about listening to traffic reports) that he couldn't get rid of and one time I went down to his house and opened the engine compartment... "What the hell are _those_?" They were bits of circuitboard/condensers/resistors/what-have-you's zip-tied to his alternator and one on his coil. He said "Noise suppressors. I finally got rid of it!" I laughed and said "you are the only one I know who could or _would_ do that." :laugh:


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Does (fully synth) oil degrade over time even if it's not being used? I have a car that's stood for a while (several years) but the oil on the dipstick is still super clean, so do I still need to change it when I get the car running again?


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## jbarth09 (Mar 8, 2013)

*18z Brembo Caliper Swap*

Tried asking this is the "Ask a stupid question" thread in the Mk6 GLI section but didn't get any responses. 

Does anyone think this is a good deal? Reason I ask it because I have seen a lot of people source parts from ebay/for sale forum and have put together a decent setup for the 18z caliper swap that is common on mk5/mk6 GTI/GLI cars. I started to do the same thing, but felt that I wasn't getting near as good a deal as I thought I was getting once everything was all said and done. Enter this Porsche 18z front brake kit

For the money, to me, seems like good value as the prices I put together for decent calipers, decent rotors, brake lines, hardware, brake pads, and then the caliper finish were close to the advertised price of the kit linked above. Any feedback would be appreciated.


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## nobbyv (May 18, 2001)

When a parts store lists a "front brake rotor and hub assembly" for sale, do these include the inner and outer bearings? Every site I've visited mentions the cups/races, but not the bearings themselves, so I'm assuming no (but hoping yes). 

Ex:

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...-Assy-Front-Premium/_/R-NB_4886559_0480185055

http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-BD125469-Premium-Rotor-Front/dp/B001O12FRA


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

Can I starve my engine of oil if I corner too hard for too long @ too high revvs...in my Mazda3? Even Lambos and Ferraris (designed to be tracked) have wet sump systems, so I doubt they were given such a flawed design.


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

the level of risk is very, very low. and you'd have to be going quite fast on a flat curve,


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## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

Which of the buttons on Speed Racer's Powerful Mach V steering wheel is the most useful?  .... and could I install the same features on my Mach VI Golf GTI?


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## Lucian1988 (Mar 25, 2009)

rstolz said:


> the level of risk is very, very low. and you'd have to be going quite fast on a flat curve,


or NASCAR. they have oil systems designed to pick up oil that gets thrown to the sides during turns


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

nobbyv said:


> When a parts store lists a "front brake rotor and hub assembly" for sale, do these include the inner and outer bearings? Every site I've visited mentions the cups/races, but not the bearings themselves, so I'm assuming no (but hoping yes).
> 
> Ex:
> 
> ...


 Generally, no. Races: yes (notable exception: rear drums and rotors for MkI-MkIII VWs); bearings: no. 
It's not like taper roller bearings are expensive, though. And, they've (generally) done the hard part (pressing the races in) for you already.


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## rabbitation (Feb 26, 2002)

Why do all new manufacturer test vehicles have those fancy black and white graphic patterns to disguise the body? Why not just a simple wrap? What's with all those swirly/twirly patterns?


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## Lucian1988 (Mar 25, 2009)

rabbitation said:


> Why do all new manufacturer test vehicles have those fancy black and white graphic patterns to disguise the body? Why not just a simple wrap? What's with all those swirly/twirly patterns?


so they hide the body lines of the car. manufacturers want to keep the body hidden or look as flat as possible, before the official release.


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## 0302 (Aug 12, 2002)

is there a shelf life to oil? I have a few half quarts around from who knows how long ago that have never been used as well as a quart or two that haven't been opened. How long is too long to use it?


----------



## AHTOXA (Dec 2, 2007)

For many years now and with many cars, I have noticed that a/c gets stronger/colder with more use. 

For example, if it's not used for a few months it feels weak. Then when used daily for a week straight (in ever increasing outside temps) it seeks stronger where I don't have to crank the fan as high for as long. 

Is it just me or is there something behind that?

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## nobbyv (May 18, 2001)

cuppie said:


> Generally, no. Races: yes (notable exception: rear drums and rotors for MkI-MkIII VWs); bearings: no.
> It's not like taper roller bearings are expensive, though. And, they've (generally) done the hard part (pressing the races in) for you already.



Thanks! I concluded the same and ordered some bearings, too.


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## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

rabbitation said:


> Why do all new manufacturer test vehicles have those fancy black and white graphic patterns to disguise the body? Why not just a simple wrap? What's with all those swirly/twirly patterns?


also why do they call them spy pics, am I supposed to believe there's some James Bond type dude working undercover at Toyota, risking his life to get pictures of the new Camry?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

worth_fixing said:


> Can I starve my engine of oil if I corner too hard for too long @ too high revvs...in my Mazda3? Even Lambos and Ferraris (designed to be tracked) have wet sump systems, so I doubt they were given such a flawed design.





rstolz said:


> the level of risk is very, very low. and you'd have to be going quite fast on a flat curve,


The risk is low, but if the car has an oil baffle/scraper thing. the risk is even less, as I understand it. A lambo most certainly does, a Mazda3 may or may not.



0302 said:


> is there a shelf life to oil? I have a few half quarts around from who knows how long ago that have never been used as well as a quart or two that haven't been opened. How long is too long to use it?


Generally, a year (like an oil change if you don't dire the car the allotted miles), but I wouldn't worry too much if you mix it with fresh oil.


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## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

worth_fixing said:


> Can I starve my engine of oil if I corner too hard for too long @ too high revvs...in my Mazda3? Even Lambos and Ferraris (designed to be tracked) have wet sump systems, so I doubt they were given such a flawed design.


Generally, you'd have heard about it if it was an issue. Certain years of Corvettes, on race tires, on long sweepers, have that issue. Likewise for the 2zz (?) in the Vibe GT / Celica GT-S when autocrossing on very sticky tires are the two that come to mind.

You don't have the raw mechanical grip [tires] to cause a problem even if you somehow found a place to do it.


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## Roadkilled78 (Aug 6, 2008)

0302 said:


> is there a shelf life to oil? I have a few half quarts around from who knows how long ago that have never been used as well as a quart or two that haven't been opened. How long is too long to use it?


I cannot offer a 'real' answer to this, but I can tell you I have been pouring _14-year-old-don't-trust-it-for-the-race-car-just-because-damn-14-years-is-a-long-time_ Kendall GT-1 20w-50 into my oil-thirsty 280,000 mile 2.5 Impreza and it hasn't blown up yet. :laugh:


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## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

Were there any 63-67 Corvette Stingrays built with an automatic?  

Never saw one


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## Ghost85 (Aug 12, 2006)

82Turbo930 said:


> Were there any 63-67 Corvette Stingrays built with an automatic?
> 
> Never saw one


They had the 2 speed Powerglide.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_Corvette_(C2)

Sent from inside a trailer park


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## VWmk3GTI (May 4, 2013)

How do you use one of these,Nobody ever taught me how,like does the number you want have to be in the middle of the prong or off to the side somewhere


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## AHTOXA (Dec 2, 2007)

VWmk3GTI said:


> How do you use one of these,Nobody ever taught me how,like does the number you want have to be in the middle of the prong or off to the side somewhere


The thickness of the edge corresponds to the unit of measure on the marks. So, you start on the thin side of the edge. Insert that edge between the side electrode and the center electrode of the plug. Slide the plug around the edge until it stops (because the edge is now too thick to pass between the side and the center electrode). The indicated number (the number next to which the side electrode stops) is the width - the plug gap. It basically acts like a shim with a gauge. Remember, don't apply force and jam it between electrodes. 










Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

And also, keep it perpendicular as possible. A slight twist can widen the gap if need be.


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## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

why are people so afraid of unblurred license plates? I mean we're driving around with them in plain sight all the time


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## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

Ghost85 said:


> They had the 2 speed Powerglide.
> https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_Corvette_(C2)
> 
> Sent from inside a trailer park


wow! you'd think they would have at least put a Turbo 400 in there.


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## fR3ZNO (May 5, 2014)

Dravenport said:


> why are people so afraid of unblurred license plates? I mean we're driving around with them in plain sight all the time


I had always wondered this myself. I think it's not the fact that you can see them in plain sight out in public, but that if someone sees a car they like posted online, etc. they can look up the address that the plate is registered with and go steal when you least expect. This is the way I've heard it explained at least.


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## AHTOXA (Dec 2, 2007)

Has anyone ever heard of or had experience with a piece of plastic (like a shopping bag) getting caught and catching fire on the exhaust piping?

Got out of my Forester today to notice a burning smell. Looked underneath and a piece of plastic thicker than a shopping bag was stuck to my exhaust. It was melting and smoldering causing the smell. This got me wondering how great the chances are of it catching fire. 

Going to scrub burnt plastic off my exhaust when I get home.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

No, but I did see a plastic bag get tied up into a CV boot and tear it.


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## Silentbobs (Apr 27, 2003)

VDub2625 said:


> No, but I did see a plastic bag get tied up into a CV boot and tear it.


I am one up you. I've seen a bag destroy the cv boot, cut the flexible brake line and bend the crap out of the hard line. Vehicle only had 1500kms on it. Needless to say there was no warranty on that


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## 0302 (Aug 12, 2002)

Dravenport said:


> why are people so afraid of unblurred license plates? I mean we're driving around with them in plain sight all the time


I heard it was so that if you modify your car in a way that voids the warranty, the dealer can't use posts you make on a message board as proof.


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## THE KILLER RABBIT (Jun 2, 2003)

can you push start a MT push to start button car. either with a good or bad battery?


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## Chockomon (Aug 20, 2005)

THE KILLER RABBIT said:


> can you push start a MT push to start button car. either with a good or bad battery?


As long as there's enough current to have ignition on then yes.


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## ILLinoizDubberVR6 (Aug 17, 2011)

There is literally no reason any law abiding citizen should blur their plate.. There is no public data base to connect your address and name to your plate... 

Now why do people do it? I'm not sure but I do it all of the time... :screwy:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

ILLinoizDubberVR6 said:


> There is literally no reason any law abiding citizen should blur their plate.. There is no public data base to connect your address and name to your plate...
> 
> Now why do people do it? I'm not sure but I do it all of the time... :screwy:


I thought there was in CA, and maybe other states.


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## bnkrpt311 (Apr 22, 2010)

Recently I bought a 2000 Camry, drove it home and have sworn to not drive it until the Sportwagen finds a new home. I did go out to start it the other day only to find out the battery was dead. Jumped it and it ran fine. The previous owner stopped driving the car as they had no use for it, they did put a new battery in it in February of this year but didn't drive the car until July when they decided to sell it. Do I have a junk battery on my hands, shot alternator, or is it just dead from me letting it sit for 3 weeks again?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Recharge it and see if it sticks. Draining a battery doesn't automatically kill it, but it does hurt it and it can become bad if it's done repeatedly.


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## fR3ZNO (May 5, 2014)

ILLinoizDubberVR6 said:


> There is literally no reason any law abiding citizen should blur their plate.. There is no *public* data base to connect your address and name to your plate...
> 
> Now why do people do it? I'm not sure but I do it all of the time... :screwy:


That is the problem. It is possible that someone with access to the proper database could easily find out this information. I'm not talking about a Carfax report based on the plate.


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## burnthesheep (May 4, 2012)

ILLinoizDubberVR6 said:


> There is literally no reason any law abiding citizen should blur their plate.. There is no public data base to connect your address and name to your plate...
> 
> Now why do people do it? I'm not sure but I do it all of the time... :screwy:


Not true. I've never owned one, but try driving a true Integra type R that is awesome condition in sketchy areas. They already disappear fast, but having someone post pics of your plates on a car forum with a location is almost like a buffet for thieves.

Not to mention if you have a sought after older car that is heavily modified, like an R32 Skyline or something. 

I can understand it.


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## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

burnthesheep said:


> Not true. I've never owned one, but try driving a true Integra type R that is awesome condition in sketchy areas. They already disappear fast, but having someone post pics of your plates on a car forum with a location is almost like a buffet for thieves.
> 
> Not to mention if you have a sought after older car that is heavily modified, like an R32 Skyline or something.
> 
> I can understand it.


so you think people in sketchy areas have access to look up license plate registration info? Or do you think they just see the location and keep an eye out? If you're driving in sketchy areas they've already seen your car AND your plate.


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## smetzger (Oct 21, 2004)

Dravenport said:


> why are people so afraid of unblurred license plates? I mean we're driving around with them in plain sight all the time


1. It makes it easier for a thief looking for a specific car or type of car to steal. The more information publicly available and easily searchable just makes it easier.
Yes, there is no public website someone can lookup your address from your plate. But if you have the means and the number, well then it is easier.

2. Insurance companies have been known to cancel car insurance for track or autocross participation. So, if it is a track or autocross event some people tape over the license plates.

3. Dealers have been known to deny warranty claims for modified cars, autocross, track, or hooning.

4. Some people are more private by nature and/or have a security clearance. The less personal information online is always better. I know some people don't 'get it' but there are some people who actively protect the data about themselves they publicly share.


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## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

smetzger said:


> 1. It makes it easier for a thief looking for a specific car or type of car to steal. The more information publicly available and easily searchable just makes it easier.
> Yes, there is no public website someone can lookup your address from your plate. But if you have the means and the number, well then it is easier.
> 
> 2. Insurance companies have been known to cancel car insurance for track or autocross participation. So, if it is a track or autocross event some people tape over the license plates.
> ...


Number 2 I understand, I saw someone at the track a couple of weekends ago with blue painters tape over his plate.


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

Why does it seem like my stock bypass valve has two stages? If you let off under moderate throttle, it makes noise, then if you let off of the pedal completely it makes a second "psssh" noise. Two valves and not just one, or just hyper-sensitive to pressure?


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## Cr4shT3st (Jan 23, 2009)

What is the smaller exhaust pipe looking thing that often comes out in front of the front wheel on a largish RV? Generator exhaust?


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## thetopdog (Nov 11, 2008)

Say there's a hypothetical car with a 6-speed manual. The ratio in 5th gear is 1, and the ratio in 6th is 0.5. If this car is cruising on flat ground at 50mph in 5th, would it get the exact same mpg cruising in 100mph in 6th since the engine rpm would be the same at both speeds? Or are there other factors I'm not considering? I"m assuming aerodynamic drag would obviously be higher at 100mph, so the engine would be under more load at 100mph in 6th even though the rpm would be the same as 50mph in 5th?


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

Cr4shT3st said:


> What is the smaller exhaust pipe looking thing that often comes out in front of the front wheel on a largish RV? Generator exhaust?


Yes. :thumbup:


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

TooFitToQuit said:


> Why does it seem like my stock bypass valve has two stages? If you let off under moderate throttle, it makes noise, then if you let off of the pedal completely it makes a second "psssh" noise. Two valves and not just one, or just hyper-sensitive to pressure?


The newer diverter valves effectively have multiple stages, and are controlled directly or indirectly by the ECU. You're hearing the ECU allow the DV to open partially on partial throttle lift, and then snap full open on full throttle lift off.

They do it this way to all ow for smoother transitions and smoother power delivery. They also react faster this way than when operated by vacuum alone.


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

thetopdog said:


> Say there's a hypothetical car with a 6-speed manual. The ratio in 5th gear is 1, and the ratio in 6th is 0.5. If this car is cruising on flat ground at 50mph in 5th, would it get the exact same mpg cruising in 100mph in 6th since the engine rpm would be the same at both speeds? Or are there other factors I'm not considering? I"m assuming aerodynamic drag would obviously be higher at 100mph, so the engine would be under more load at 100mph in 6th even though the rpm would be the same as 50mph in 5th?


overly simplistic, but yea, that's the idea. the relationship isn't perfectly linear.

good basic descriptions I've used with other folks:

http://science.howstuffworks.com/transport/engines-equipment/gear-ratio.htm

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/transmission.htm

You can also think of it the same way as a 21 speed bike.


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## Omnilith (Jan 15, 2010)

The engine would be under DRASTICALLY more load, unless you're driving in a vacuum. 

The aerodynamic drag equation has the flow velocity squared, making your parasitic drag increase exponentially with speed.


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## simon_C (Oct 5, 2006)

In a bagged/hydro car, how do you deal with the changes in toe when the ride height is changed? or do you just deal with the car always handling funny and scrubbing the tread off tires?


----------



## fireside (Feb 23, 2008)

82Turbo930 said:


> Were there any 63-67 Corvette Stingrays built with an automatic?
> 
> Never saw one


Local guy AutoX's a '66 with a 2spd and a lot of engine work. With a lot of suspension work. And hoosiers. And he destroys all :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## Dan.S (Jan 3, 2012)

enriquejcu said:


> here's one:
> Do they really need to post "No Passing" signs on roads with a double yellow center line?


Yes, becasue technically, normal passing on a double yellow isnt specifically illegal. The "NO PASSING" sign is to designate a place where it is duely unsafe to pass, and therefore it is a restricted place to pass, no matter the circumstances.


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## thetopdog (Nov 11, 2008)

rstolz said:


> overly simplistic, but yea, that's the idea. the relationship isn't perfectly linear.
> 
> good basic descriptions I've used with other folks:
> 
> ...


Thanks for the response, but I'm not sure if it's exactly what I'm looking for. I know how gear ratios work, my question was more around what factors besides engine RPM need to be taken into account when thinking about MPG, I apologize if I worded my question confusingly


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

thetopdog said:


> Thanks for the response, but I'm not sure if it's exactly what I'm looking for. I know how gear ratios work, my question was more around what factors besides engine RPM need to be taken into account when thinking about MPG, I apologize if I worded my question confusingly


Miles Per Gallon is literally a function of speed and fuel used (which is calculable form a measurement of load). In the old VW MFA, it was crudely calculated using engine vacuum (load) and distance travelled. In newer cars, the engine computer actually tells the MFA computer how much fuel it uses, and it uses that with distance to get an even ore accurate reading. I assume this is how most manufacturers do it now. It's never completely 100% accurate due to variables like a worn engine, tires, etc. 

So, for a steady speed, it's all about load. Higher load means more fuel. Drag is increased exponentially as a function of speed, so that accounts for the difference.


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## mx5er (Apr 28, 2001)

I'm sorry but why does the Nissan Leaf have what looks like a conventional 12v battery?  Is it sorely for the stereo when the car is parked? Or the stereo is powered by that 12v all the time?

And how does it get charged? Obviously there is no alternator. I know that the top trim have a small solar panel on top of the hatch to charge it. Then what about the base model? Regen braking?









:screwy:


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## spartan_msu (Sep 22, 2011)

Even electric cars have to have a 12v system to operate the normal electronics (lights, radio, windows, etc.). Most of them charge the 12v battery with the larger high voltage battery.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

mx5er said:


> I'm sorry but why does the Nissan Leaf have what looks like a conventional 12v battery?  Is it sorely for the stereo when the car is parked? Or the stereo is powered by that 12v all the time?
> 
> And how does it get charged? Obviously there is no alternator. I know that the top trim have a small solar panel on top of the hatch to charge it. Then what about the base model? Regen braking?
> 
> ...


Radio, lights, dashboard electronics, hvac fan will all run off of 12v. I believe they run a DC-DC converter to charge it.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

mx5er said:


> I'm sorry but why does the Nissan Leaf have what looks like a conventional 12v battery?  Is it sorely for the stereo when the car is parked? Or the stereo is powered by that 12v all the time?
> 
> And how does it get charged? Obviously there is no alternator. I know that the top trim have a small solar panel on top of the hatch to charge it. Then what about the base model? Regen braking?
> 
> :screwy:


There's a 12v battery in all electric cars to run the 12v system (lights, radio, windows etc). It also powers the electronics that move the car, so that battery dying can stop it the same way it can stop a gas engine. 

As for charging, I assume it gets fed regen and solar power, and maybe main battery under the right conditions that the ECU deems necessary. lol.

Damn me for sitting on this post before posting it! lol!


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

rstolz said:


> The newer diverter valves effectively have multiple stages, and are controlled directly or indirectly by the ECU. You're hearing the ECU allow the DV to open partially on partial throttle lift, and then snap full open on full throttle lift off.
> 
> They do it this way to all ow for smoother transitions and smoother power delivery. They also react faster this way than when operated by vacuum alone.


Interesting. Thanks for the info!! :thumbup::beer:


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## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

smetzger said:


> 1. It makes it easier for a thief looking for a specific car or type of car to steal. The more information publicly available and easily searchable just makes it easier.
> Yes, there is no public website someone can lookup your address from your plate. But if you have the means and the number, well then it is easier.
> 
> 2. Insurance companies have been known to cancel car insurance for track or autocross participation. So, if it is a track or autocross event some people tape over the license plates.
> ...


As someone who typically blurs his license plate from photos, I agree with all of these reasons. Especially #4. Once something is put on the internet, there's no way to take it back.


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

monoaural said:


> Radio, lights, dashboard electronics, hvac fan will all run off of 12v. I believe they run a DC-DC converter to charge it.


 100% correct. A :beer: for you, sir. 
DC-DC converter from the HV system, to power the 12v system. 12v battery is simply for standby power for the 12v system (read: key-off power.) 


I do believe that a Leaf's solar panels are actually for charging the HV battery.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

thetopdog said:


> Thanks for the response, but I'm not sure if it's exactly what I'm looking for. I know how gear ratios work, my question was more around what factors besides engine RPM need to be taken into account when thinking about MPG, I apologize if I worded my question confusingly


I need to make some videos with my ScanGauge to show this visually. Just because an engine is spun up to 4000 or 5000 RPM doesn't mean it will always use more fuel than one running at 2000 or 3000 RPM. 

The computer will have the injectors spray more fuel into the cylinders if the car is under more load (climbing a hill, accelerator floored, etc). If the load is the same in both instances, like 70 MPH cruising, just comparing 5th and 6th gears, and if the car has sufficient low-end torque to loaf along in top gear, it will definitely get better MPG with the lower revs. But some cars will labor at extremely low revs and it might require more throttle input to maintain speed in top gear versus a lower one.

But the amount of fuel injected in the intake stroke isn't the same under all conditions -- if there is more load the injectors will be under a heavier duty cycle / pulse width, which is the amount of time the injector is spraying out fuel; it can range from 0% to 100% of the time. Some of them can also inject fuel in varying amounts (a lot or a little, for short and long periods of time) or even do multiple injections per intake stroke. Earlier cars couldn't get this precise with fuel metering; that is why they kind of stink when unburnt fuel is dumped out the exhaust and backfire/pop/sputter.

Also keep in mind that just because an engine is revved up to 4000 or 6000 RPM, it isn't necessarily using more fuel than one running at 2000 or 3000 RPM. If you are flooring it in 4th to climb a hill at 3000 RPM it is going to be using tons more fuel than if you are have the thing wound up to 6000 RPM in 2nd but only have the throttle depressed 10%. My car will stop firing the injectors entirely if I take my foot off the accelerator, even at 5000+ RPM in 2nd or 3rd. It is kind of fun to watch the ScanGauge in the mountains because the car will be using 10 GPH (gallons per hour) or more when I am flooring it up a hill in 2nd at 5500 RPM but then it will basically turn into a giant air pump on the other side of the hill and will not use fuel the entire time I'm coasting down the other side, even with the A/C on. I have coasted for a few miles before on long grades and the coolant temperature will actually drop by 20°F in the middle of the summer, down to the upper 160s.

This is long and kind of tedious but he gets better MPG in lower gears than in the Vette's super-tall 7th at normal highway speeds.





Skip to the end of this and watch all the different variations of the Bosch injector (ignore the aftermarket one they show at the beginning)


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## Afazz (Feb 10, 2002)

simon_C said:


> In a bagged/hydro car, how do you deal with the changes in toe when the ride height is changed? or do you just deal with the car always handling funny and scrubbing the tread off tires?


The common practice is to have the car aligned at the most common driving ride height to minimize these affects. Sometimes factory specs cannot be achieved at lower heights, but usually you can get close. When the car is lifted to clear an obstacle or slammed for maximum stancebro scene points, the alignment will be less than ideal. When lowered to extreme amounts, some cars generate lots of negative camber (see minitrucks), some cars generate lots of toe-in (see aircooled VWs), some cars don't change a whole lot (see macpherson strut econoboxes).

Some builders will physically modify suspension components so the suspension and/or steering geometry is more consistent throughout the usable travel of the suspension. Some people just deal with the car handling funny and wearing tires prematurely.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

adrew said:


> I need to make some videos with my ScanGauge to show this visually. Just because an engine is spun up to 4000 or 5000 RPM doesn't mean it will always use more fuel than one running at 2000 or 3000 RPM.
> 
> The computer will have the injectors spray more fuel into the cylinders if the car is under more load (climbing a hill, accelerator floored, etc). If the load is the same in both instances, like 70 MPH cruising, just comparing 5th and 6th gears, and if the car has sufficient low-end torque to loaf along in top gear, it will definitely get better MPG with the lower revs. But some cars will labor at extremely low revs and it might require more throttle input to maintain speed in top gear versus a lower one.
> 
> ...


I'm glad you posted this because its 100% correct.
Fuel economy based on how much an engine will consume fuel is more about how hard the engine is working. 
On the N/A motors back in the day it was a good indicator by understanding the vacuum gauge on the intake manifold. 
Sourcing the correct gear at the correct speed for the loading will prove higher efficiency on fuel if you make the engine work less. :thumbup:


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## firstorbit84 (Feb 25, 2006)

What are the vents you always see on the sides underneath rear bumpers:


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

That's how the air gets out if have the windows up but "fresh" air selected on the HVAC.


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

Pressure differential vents. Allow air to escape when you close the doors, etc.


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## burnthesheep (May 4, 2012)

My question: does anywhere in the world give incentives to businesses to provide flex working times as a method to ease traffic congestion? If everyone wants their own car for convenience versus carpooling, would motorcycles greatly ease congestion? Does anywhere give incentives to use a motorcycle solo instead of a car?

I know everyone wants an 8-5, but it seems it would save a lot of construction costs and congestion to get people to spread it from 8-5 to 7-6 or 630-630. You'd work your "8", it just might not be 8-5. I know the many many reasons people or businesses don't want it, but it may be unavoidable someday.

I guess, does anywhere do this or has it been tried?


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

burnthesheep said:


> I know everyone wants an 8-5, but it seems it would save a lot of construction costs and congestion to get people to spread it from 8-5 to 7-6 or 630-630. You'd work your "8", it just might not be 8-5. I know the many many reasons people or businesses don't want it, but it may be unavoidable someday.


My work (higher ed) is pretty flexible so I changed my schedule to 9-6 several years back and like it. There's noticeably less traffic, nothing happens from 8-9 a.m. anyway, and 4-6 p.m. are some of my most productive hours since everyone else is wrapping up the day/already gone and I don't get interrupted. In the summer we can work longer days and do 4-day weeks but it ends up being around a 10.5-hour day and I have enough vacation that it's not worth the paperwork and getting up early.


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## Electron Man (Sep 21, 1999)

burnthesheep said:


> My question: does anywhere in the world give incentives to businesses to provide flex working times as a method to ease traffic congestion? If everyone wants their own car for convenience versus carpooling, would motorcycles greatly ease congestion? Does anywhere give incentives to use a motorcycle solo instead of a car?
> 
> I know everyone wants an 8-5, but it seems it would save a lot of construction costs and congestion to get people to spread it from 8-5 to 7-6 or 630-630. You'd work your "8", it just might not be 8-5. I know the many many reasons people or businesses don't want it, but it may be unavoidable someday.
> 
> I guess, does anywhere do this or has it been tried?


What if the people working walked to work, or rode bicycles. Maybe one or two don't need to leave the house.

Point is: These are questions about how to deal with _traffic density_ (not cars) that you may have always been afraid to ask...


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

adrew said:


> I need to make some videos with my ScanGauge to show this visually. Just because an engine is spun up to 4000 or 5000 RPM doesn't mean it will always use more fuel than one running at 2000 or 3000 RPM.
> 
> The computer will have the injectors spray more fuel into the cylinders if the car is under more load (climbing a hill, accelerator floored, etc). If the load is the same in both instances, like 70 MPH cruising, just comparing 5th and 6th gears, and if the car has sufficient low-end torque to loaf along in top gear, it will definitely get better MPG with the lower revs. But some cars will labor at extremely low revs and it might require more throttle input to maintain speed in top gear versus a lower one.
> 
> ...


In other words, throttle angle is another variable that affects mpg.


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## the flying grape! (Dec 4, 1999)

Maybe this has already been answered in the thread already, but here goes: Why do some owners of diesel pickups like to idle their truck for long periods? There was a family the other night that got out of a semi-old F350 at the pizza joint where we were eating. I think they were there to pick up a pizza. They parked for 10-15 minutes, and the guy left the truck idling right next to the door (great, thanks). It was in the evening and not too hot, so the truck would not have gotten super-hot in the midday sun without A/C. This isn't the first time I've seen this sort of thing happen; it tends to happen a lot at gas stations, too. What gives? I thought that once a diesel gets to operating temp, it's fine to stop and turn off and on just like a gasser.


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## Marc86Golf2 (Jul 21, 2005)

what are the color matched squares on late 90's early 2000's Audi bumpers. looks as though a sprayer or Volvo type wiper would come out but ive never seen those squares open up..just sensors for daytime running lights?


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

Marc86Golf2 said:


> what are the color matched squares on late 90's early 2000's Audi bumpers. looks as though a sprayer or Volvo type wiper would come out but ive never seen those squares open up..just sensors for daytime running lights?


Usually tow hook attaching point covers.


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## madmax34 (May 3, 2007)

Being in the construction/demolition industry for a while, I always left my diesel F250 idling, mostly just to keep the cabin cool with the AC and they can idle forever and use very little diesel. Also Diesel engines have high compression so maybe it's to save the starter unless your going spend over an hour outside of the truck. 


Sent from my iPhone 6+


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## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

What is the best way to take off a rusted brake rotor.

Brakes have never been changed, so its 7 years of Canadian Mazda rust keeping the rotor from moving. 

I've tried penetrating oil, heat, a lot of heat, and smashes with a sledgehammer. Rear brakes were fairly easy to replace, I'm now on my first front brake and both need to be done by noon tomorrow. 

I have heard of someone cutting a pizza slice out of a rotor to pry it open. Have any of you tied this or have heard of its success?

#1









And before you ask, I am replacing them.

Thanks!


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## nissan sellout (Apr 9, 2006)

Marc86Golf2 said:


> what are the color matched squares on late 90's early 2000's Audi bumpers. looks as though a sprayer or Volvo type wiper would come out but ive never seen those squares open up..just sensors for daytime running lights?


on my 2000 a6 they were covers for the headlight washer nozzles. They would pop out and spray the headlights whenever you sprayed the windshield. I wondered for a long time where that mist over the front bumper was coming from. I believe they even were heated nozzles.


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

2.0_Mazda said:


> What is the best way to take off a rusted brake rotor.
> 
> Brakes have never been changed, so its 7 years of Canadian Mazda rust keeping the rotor from moving.
> 
> ...


 Beat the crap out of them. 
At work, my weapon of choice is my 48oz. ball-peen hammer. 
Hit the friction surface from the backside (remember: your goal is to drive the rotor off.) Rotate the rotor as needed, to hit more than one area. 
Granted, this is usually not to much of a problem for me (at work) - easier to swing, when the car's on a hoist. I know, though, that it sucks when the car's on stands (harder to swing.) 

Come reassembly time: 
clean the hub well (wire brush, Scotchbrite pad - hell, I've even had to break the chunks off with a hammer and chisel before!) 
Apply a bead of marine-grade wheel bearing grease around the hub snout. 
Install rotor. Apply another this bead of same grease. 
Keep the wheel from getting stuck. Same for the rotor.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Marc86Golf2 said:


> what are the color matched squares on late 90's early 2000's Audi bumpers. looks as though a sprayer or Volvo type wiper would come out but ive never seen those squares open up..just sensors for daytime running lights?


Either the tow hook cover(s) or headlight washers as mentioned. You may never have seen them open up because they only activate when washing the windshield with the headlights on.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

I've read and heard in more than one instant that it is beneficial (less detrimental) for a manual transmission to be shifted into 2nd gear before 1st gear is selected. Although I wondered about its legitimacy (and validity, given today's modern transmissions) I've been doing exactly that, from a standstill or a slight roll (basically anytime I wanted to select first) and I have to admit, 1st gear seem to slide in easier after it's been in 2nd just before.

What is the logic behind this? ...should I be selecting 3rd before I go into 2nd? :laugh:


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## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

By Doomsday,  who will win the 'highest number of gears in any automobile' award? ( standard or automatic ) I think we are up to 10 speed automatics so far


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

82Turbo930 said:


> By Doomsday,  who will win the 'highest number of gears in any automobile' award? ( standard or automatic ) I think we are up to 10 speed automatics so far


eventually they'll all figure out that the CVT is really the best answer.


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

worth_fixing said:


> I've read and heard in more than one instant that it is beneficial (less detrimental) for a manual transmission to be shifted into 2nd gear before 1st gear is selected. Although I wondered about its legitimacy (and validity, given today's modern transmissions) I've been doing exactly that, from a standstill or a slight roll (basically anytime I wanted to select first) and I have to admit, 1st gear seem to slide in easier after it's been in 2nd just before.
> 
> What is the logic behind this? ...should I be selecting 3rd before I go into 2nd? :laugh:




People make the assumption that its better, jsut because it's easier. The reason has to do with gear size, and rotation. 1 and 2 are on the same selector hub, shifting into second first helps match speed and align the the hub, ring, and dog engagement teeth. It is marginally easier on the trans to step down gear by gear, but really only if your getting grinding between engagements.

I always jump straight to 1st, unless it gets misaligned (that feeling like its hitting a wall briefly), then i drop back to 2nd to jimmy the gears and slide into 1st like butter. I may come back to add images.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

rstolz said:


> People make the assumption that its better, jsut because it's easier. The reason has to do with gear size, and rotation. 1 and 2 are on the same selector hub, shifting into second first helps match speed and align the the hub, ring, and dog engagement teeth. It is marginally easier on the trans to step down gear by gear, but really only if your getting grinding between engagements.
> 
> I always jump straight to 1st, unless it gets misaligned (that feeling like its hitting a wall briefly), then i drop back to 2nd to jimmy the gears and slide into 1st like butter. I may come back to add images.


That, and I think it's a bit of an old wive's tale from the days when cars had unsyncronized first gears, which meant you had to be completely and utterly stopped (and the input shaft has to stop rotating after the clutch is engaged), before selecting first, or you could grind it. Nowadays, that "wall" you feel probably has the same mental effect (most manuals I've driven have to be nearly completely stopped, even a tiny bit of forward movement makes 1st hard to engage vs. at a standstill). I don't use first unless I'm at a stop, otherwise second gear is usually fine for rolling takeoffs (or, just hold it gently at the "wall" to preselect first gear before coming to a stop, it'll slide in as the syncros do their thing after a moment or so). You usually need to shift out of first by 20mph anyway. I also usually drive close-ratio cars, though


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

VDub2625 said:


> That, and I think it's a bit of an old wive's tale from the days when cars had unsyncronized first gears, which meant you had to be completely and utterly stopped (and the input shaft has to stop rotating after the clutch is engaged), before selecting first, or you could grind it. Nowadays, that "wall" you feel probably has the same mental effect (most manuals I've driven have to be nearly completely stopped, even a tiny bit of forward movement makes 1st hard to engage vs. at a standstill). I don't use first unless I'm at a stop, otherwise second gear is usually fine for rolling takeoffs (or, just hold it gently at the "wall" to preselect first gear before coming to a stop, it'll slide in as the syncros do their thing after a moment or so). You usually need to shift out of first by 20mph anyway. I also usually drive close-ratio cars, though


:thumbup:


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## burnthesheep (May 4, 2012)

Question about brake calipers:

Why is there such a difference in which side of the rotor they are on? I see some fronts facing the front of the car, some the rear. I see some rears facing either way also. In other words, if you're looking at a caliper and rotor, it can either be bolted so it clamps the left or right side of the rotor.

Is this to alter the front/rear weight balance of the car?


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

My transmission is pretty indifferent; it has good feel and I can tell what the synchros are doing, like how long I need to wait before pushing further.

I do still shift to a forward gear before putting it in reverse; it will crunch sometimes if I go straight to reverse without waiting a few seconds for everything to spin down.


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## 2.0smurf (Sep 7, 2006)

Can I take my wife's Beetle Convertible with a tan top through a car wash?!


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

burnthesheep said:


> Question about brake calipers:
> 
> Why is there such a difference in which side of the rotor they are on? I see some fronts facing the front of the car, some the rear. I see some rears facing either way also. In other words, if you're looking at a caliper and rotor, it can either be bolted so it clamps the left or right side of the rotor.
> 
> Is this to alter the front/rear weight balance of the car?


That's one reason... can also be packaging reasons. Ie: the steering connects to the front of the spindle, so the caliper goes on the back.


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

2.0smurf said:


> Can I take my wife's Beetle Convertible with a tan top through a car wash?!


No. Only the black tops are car wash friendly. 

As long as it doesn't have any serious water leaks it should be fine. Not much difference from a heavy rain.
I'd say a new Beetle... go for it. A classic Beetle? You're gonna get wet.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

I have automatic headlights, why don't they turn on when I turn on the wipers? Seems like a no-brainer safety feature and many places have laws that say you need to turn on your headlights when wipers are on.


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## BoostedSwede (Jan 8, 2012)

I'll just put this here I guess. I have a 2010 CC with the 2.0 TSI motor and a 6-speed manual. About 78k miles on it, well maintained, no issues. My commute is about 30-35 miles each way, all interstate. I usually cruise at 90ish mph the whole time, which is almost 4k rpm. I also live in Florida, where it's hot and humid (80-90 degrees Fahrenheit). Is it bad for my car to run such high rpm for 30-40 minutes at a time, twice a day, every day?

I obviously know it's bad for fuel economy, but I don't care about that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

cuppie said:


> Beat the crap out of them.
> At work, my weapon of choice is my 48oz. ball-peen hammer.
> Hit the friction surface from the backside (remember: your goal is to drive the rotor off.) Rotate the rotor as needed, to hit more than one area.
> Granted, this is usually not to much of a problem for me (at work) - easier to swing, when the car's on a hoist. I know, though, that it sucks when the car's on stands (harder to swing.)
> ...


Thanks for the help but I finally gave up (after hours of beating).

Mazda had to break them off.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

BoostedSwede said:


> I'll just put this here I guess. I have a 2010 CC with the 2.0 TSI motor and a 6-speed manual. About 78k miles on it, well maintained, no issues. My commute is about 30-35 miles each way, all interstate. I usually cruise at 90ish mph the whole time, which is almost 4k rpm. I also live in Florida, where it's hot and humid (80-90 degrees Fahrenheit). Is it bad for my car to run such high rpm for 30-40 minutes at a time, twice a day, every day?
> 
> I obviously know it's bad for fuel economy, but I don't care about that.
> 
> ...


Nope.

You're good.


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## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

BoostedSwede said:


> I'll just put this here I guess. I have a 2010 CC with the 2.0 TSI motor and a 6-speed manual. About 78k miles on it, well maintained, no issues. My commute is about 30-35 miles each way, all interstate. I usually cruise at 90ish mph the whole time, which is almost 4k rpm. I also live in Florida, where it's hot and humid (80-90 degrees Fahrenheit). Is it bad for my car to run such high rpm for 30-40 minutes at a time, twice a day, every day?
> 
> I obviously know it's bad for fuel economy, but I don't care about that.
> 
> ...


No, in fact it might even be good for it rather than putting around all day. You'll have a little higher oil temps than normal but it's no problem for synthetic oil at all.


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## BoostedSwede (Jan 8, 2012)

Awesome, thanks for the responses. I run good synthetic oil and change it every 5k, so it sounds like I'm good!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

My car/exhaust farts at high RPM with the throttle closed; e.g. coasting downhill in low gear, or lifting after hard pull. I know it's unburnt fuel combusting in the exhaust but I'm curious whether it a)does any damage; b)means the engine is running too rich? It's like frequent, low volume farts rather than massive backfires. I don't think there are flames, although that would be kind of cool.


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## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

when people talk about offset wheels, what exactly does that mean? Just bigger tires in the rear than in the front?


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

Dravenport said:


> when people talk about offset wheels, what exactly does that mean? Just bigger tires in the rear than in the front?


The offset of the wheel is an axial measurement from the center of the wheel's width to the mounting face of the wheel.

http://www.readylift.com/Images/wheel offset backspacing size diagram.jpg


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## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

GTijoejoe said:


> The offset of the wheel is an axial measurement from the center of the wheel's width to the mounting face of the wheel.
> 
> http://www.readylift.com/Images/wheel offset backspacing size diagram.jpg


what would the benefits be of each? I assume 0 offset is more stable


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## heffe80 (Mar 10, 2007)

Dravenport said:


> what would the benefits be of each? I assume 0 offset is more stable


Depends on the manufacturer specs/application/etc.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

In general, FWD has higher offset, RWD has lower (sometimes even negative) offset. It has to do with how the wheel bearings are loaded, too. That's as much as I know


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Also has to do with the suspension geometry. 

Depending on how the suspension is designed to handle travel will also affect the offset in the package.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

ThreadBomber said:


> No, in fact it might even be good for it rather than putting around all day. You'll have a little higher oil temps than normal but it's no problem for synthetic oil at all.


Actually, I don't see how it's better to run an engine at 4k rather than running at 2k.


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## julz88 (Apr 23, 2011)

*Idle bounce*

My Mazda6 has developed a strange high idle when I make stops at lights/stop signs etc over the past couple of weeks. Nothing drastic but it will now idle at around 1100RPM, until I apply the clutch pedal, at which point it will settle back at around 800RPM. Take my foot off the clutch and it creeps back up again. 

Now if I roll the car forward slightly using the clutch, stop and then put it back into neutral with foot off the clutch it stays idling as it should at 800RPM. Very strange.

Any ideas??


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

worth_fixing said:


> Actually, I don't see how it's better to run an engine at 4k rather than running at 2k.


Some evidence to suggest it is better for combating or slowing carbon build up on GDI engines, which I believe his is.


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## HaterSlayer (Oct 19, 2007)

In my car I noticed the right turn signal light on the dash was flashing faster than the left turn signal. It turned out that my right front passenger turn signal bulb was blown. Is this a design thing or a wacky coincidence? If so how does that work? When I have the emergency flashers on they all flash at the same rate.


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## prometheus_ (Oct 6, 2009)

julz88 said:


> My Mazda6 has developed a strange high idle when I make stops at lights/stop signs etc over the past couple of weeks. Nothing drastic but it will now idle at around 1100RPM, until I apply the clutch pedal, at which point it will settle back at around 800RPM. Take my foot off the clutch and it creeps back up again.
> 
> Now if I roll the car forward slightly using the clutch, stop and then put it back into neutral with foot off the clutch it stays idling as it should at 800RPM. Very strange.
> 
> Any ideas??


Sounds like what mk2/3 vw used to do.

There could be:
- slight vacuum leak from a cracked hose
- dirty/faulty throttle switch
- dirty/faulty idle control valve

But it's a mazda, so wtf would i know


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## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

If I drain all the gas out of my car and run pure moonshine or maybe pure wood alchohol in it on the way to the echeck, will it have a better chance of passing the smog test?  



...or not?


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## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

HaterSlayer said:


> In my car I noticed the right turn signal light on the dash was flashing faster than the left turn signal. It turned out that my right front passenger turn signal bulb was blown. Is this a design thing or a wacky coincidence? If so how does that work? When I have the emergency flashers on they all flash at the same rate.


it's a design thing, since you never really see your indicators it's how they let the driver know a bulb is burned out


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

HaterSlayer said:


> In my car I noticed the right turn signal light on the dash was flashing faster than the left turn signal. It turned out that my right front passenger turn signal bulb was blown. Is this a design thing or a wacky coincidence? If so how does that work? When I have the emergency flashers on they all flash at the same rate.


it's a Federal requirement that the turn signal give some kind of indication that a bulb is out (this dates back to the 60s). The cheapest way to do this is not by adding another warning light for bulb out, but instead to modify the speed of the turn signal.

I went into a whole description of a turn signal relay and bimetallic strips, but I either don't know what I'm talking about or confused myself because the design hit a brick wall in my description


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## nobbyv (May 18, 2001)

Is there a preferred action to take when encountering a large bump at highway speeds? Specifically, this morning on my normal commute they had milled about 100-200 yds of pavement to prepare for some repaving operation. This resulted in a ~2" highway-lane-wide bump on the "far" side (thus, unavoidable). I did what instinct had told me to do, and braked to slow from ~75MPH to ~60MPH. The resulting impact (especially on 19" wheels) was still pretty jarring. Got me thinking: is braking, causing the car to "nose-dive" actually the LAST thing you'd want to do in this case? I'd think that braking is going to pre-compress the front springs, leaving less travel to absorb the bump. Should I instead have simply maintained my current speed? Or possible even accelerated, taking weight OFF the front?


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

julz88 said:


> My Mazda6 has developed a strange high idle when I make stops at lights/stop signs etc over the past couple of weeks. Nothing drastic but it will now idle at around 1100RPM, until I apply the clutch pedal, at which point it will settle back at around 800RPM. Take my foot off the clutch and it creeps back up again.
> 
> Now if I roll the car forward slightly using the clutch, stop and then put it back into neutral with foot off the clutch it stays idling as it should at 800RPM. Very strange.
> 
> Any ideas??





prometheus_ said:


> Sounds like what mk2/3 vw used to do.
> 
> There could be:
> - slight vacuum leak from a cracked hose
> ...



Have you unhooked the battery lately? if so, you need a throttle body alignment. You can scan the car for stored codes as well. There are a number of codes that get stored and don't throw a CEL. Things like a TBA being needed. You may also, as noted have a vac leak. PCV, idle(secondary) air injection, EGR valve, a faulty Mass airflow sensor, dirty sensor, lots of little things.


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

thegave said:


> My car/exhaust farts at high RPM with the throttle closed; e.g. coasting downhill in low gear, or lifting after hard pull. I know it's unburnt fuel combusting in the exhaust but I'm curious whether it a)does any damage; b)means the engine is running too rich? It's like frequent, low volume farts rather than massive backfires. I don't think there are flames, although that would be kind of cool.


what kind of car?

fuel injected or carburetor? turbo or NA?

All the time, or just when coming off WOT?


It could be as simple as the engine simply not being able to adjust quick enough, or you may have an air leak causing a rich condition (exhaust side most likely, pre-02x sensor), worn out spark plugs or it could be a lot more complicated: Bad cylinder rings, leaky valves. A relatively simple compression test can determine if it's valves or rings. a spark plug inspection can tell you if its the plugs. A vac test and a boost test will tell you if its an air leak.

the pops themselves aren't terribly damaging, though the cumulative efect of thousands of tiny explosions in your exhaust will contribute to premature failures. You won't get flames, the fuel is spent as soon as you hear the pop, you aren't dumping as much fuel as a group B into your exhaust, and even if you are, the flames will be spent by the time they enter the resonator, not to mention the muffler.


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## julz88 (Apr 23, 2011)

rstolz said:


> Have you unhooked the battery lately? if so, you need a throttle body alignment. You can scan the car for stored codes as well. There are a number of codes that get stored and don't throw a CEL. Things like a TBA being needed. You may also, as noted have a vac leak. PCV, idle(secondary) air injection, EGR valve, a faulty Mass airflow sensor, dirty sensor, lots of little things.





prometheus_ said:


> Sounds like what mk2/3 vw used to do.
> 
> There could be:
> - slight vacuum leak from a cracked hose
> ...


Thanks. :thumbup::beer: On my to do list this weekend


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

nobbyv said:


> Is there a preferred action to take when encountering a large bump at highway speeds? Specifically, this morning on my normal commute they had milled about 100-200 yds of pavement to prepare for some repaving operation. This resulted in a ~2" highway-lane-wide bump on the "far" side (thus, unavoidable). I did what instinct had told me to do, and braked to slow from ~75MPH to ~60MPH. The resulting impact (especially on 19" wheels) was still pretty jarring. Got me thinking: is braking, causing the car to "nose-dive" actually the LAST thing you'd want to do in this case? I'd think that braking is going to pre-compress the front springs, leaving less travel to absorb the bump. Should I instead have simply maintained my current speed? Or possible even accelerated, taking weight OFF the front?


The dive only happens during active deceleration, so if you were holding onto the brake pedal hard while hitting the bump, that's probably not great. Try to slow down and release the pedal just before you get to it and glide over the bump. it's goig to be jarrig on 19s no matter what you do, but it shouldn't hurt anything.


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

nobbyv said:


> Is there a preferred action to take when encountering a large bump at highway speeds? Specifically, this morning on my normal commute they had milled about 100-200 yds of pavement to prepare for some repaving operation. This resulted in a ~2" highway-lane-wide bump on the "far" side (thus, unavoidable). I did what instinct had told me to do, and braked to slow from ~75MPH to ~60MPH. The resulting impact (especially on 19" wheels) was still pretty jarring. Got me thinking: is braking, causing the car to "nose-dive" actually the LAST thing you'd want to do in this case? I'd think that braking is going to pre-compress the front springs, leaving less travel to absorb the bump. Should I instead have simply maintained my current speed? Or possible even accelerated, taking weight OFF the front?





VDub2625 said:


> The dive only happens during active deceleration, so if you were holding onto the brake pedal hard while hitting the bump, that's probably not great. Try to slow down and release the pedal just before you get to it and glide over the bump. it's goig to be jarrig on 19s no matter what you do, but it shouldn't hurt anything.


yeppers, just get off the brake before you actually go over the lip.


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## SLC_Punker (Mar 2, 2002)

I keep my car decently clean, but don't do hardcore detailing very often. Say i want to pay for a yearly detailing (wash, swirl removal, polish, wax, etc). Would it be better to do it in the fall to protect the paint from the harshness of winter, or in the spring to clean up after winter? I plan to keep this car as long as its ringlands and headgaskets last


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## AHTOXA (Dec 2, 2007)

nobbyv said:


> Is there a preferred action to take when encountering a large bump at highway speeds? Specifically, this morning on my normal commute they had milled about 100-200 yds of pavement to prepare for some repaving operation. This resulted in a ~2" highway-lane-wide bump on the "far" side (thus, unavoidable). I did what instinct had told me to do, and braked to slow from ~75MPH to ~60MPH. The resulting impact (especially on 19" wheels) was still pretty jarring. Got me thinking: is braking, causing the car to "nose-dive" actually the LAST thing you'd want to do in this case? I'd think that braking is going to pre-compress the front springs, leaving less travel to absorb the bump. Should I instead have simply maintained my current speed? Or possible even accelerated, taking weight OFF the front?


In cases like these I will brake as much as I can safely and then let off the brake right before the bump. This way the suspension is as neutral as can be during the hit.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

AHTOXA said:


> In cases like these I will brake as much as I can safely and then let off the brake right before the bump. This way the suspension is as neutral as can be during the hit.


Yep.

And for most speed bumps, I slow prior to them, and then go over them under power, so I transfer weight to the rear of the car, so it doesn't teeter-totter.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

rstolz said:


> what kind of car?
> 
> fuel injected or carburetor? turbo or NA?
> 
> ...


CIS, turbo. Loudest when coming off WOT but it was just weird hearing them while compression braking downhill. Hope it's not a compression issue.

As for bumps, I generally try to make sure I'm accelerating over changes in terrain. I find it smooths out the impact a lot. If it's a pot hole I also find you're sometimes able to skip over it if you power through it, rather than fall into it. Depends on size, speed, etc


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## Ghost85 (Aug 12, 2006)

My girlfriends 2003 Explorer's rear strut tower rotted out. I'm assuming a decent welder should be able to either cut out the old mount and weld in a junkyard one, or repair it without having to cut it off the frame. My main concern is just how much will it cost. I'd have them check the other side to make sure it won't happen again. The truck is fine in every other aspect.

Sent from inside a trailer park


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## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

If you rotate tires on a direct-TPMS car, will the locations get messed up? I think a shop swapped my rear wheels, and now when the left rear is low, the computer says "right rear tire low."


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## J2G (Aug 9, 2012)

I changed the oil on my Accord yesterday, but I could not get the damn filter off. I had to leave because of time constraints, and am going to try removing the filter Friday/Satuday night.

Will I be okay changing the filter without changing the oil? Should I worry about oil pouring out?


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## Ghost85 (Aug 12, 2006)

J2G said:


> I changed the oil on my Accord yesterday, but I could not get the damn filter off. I had to leave because of time constraints, and am going to try removing the filter Friday/Satuday night.
> 
> Will I be okay changing the filter without changing the oil? Should I worry about oil pouring out?


You should be fine just make sure the stuck filter isn't leaking or if the can is damaged

Sent from inside a trailer park


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

You can still change the filter after an oil change. The oils mostly sits in the pan. 

You can take a long Phillips screwdriver and hammer the point through the filter. It's messy, but you gain a lot of leverage.


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## fR3ZNO (May 5, 2014)

cityjohn said:


> If you rotate tires on a direct-TPMS car, will the locations get messed up? I think a shop swapped my rear wheels, and now when the left rear is low, the computer says "right rear tire low."


Yes. This is true. Whenever we rotate tires we have to have the TPMS relearn the sensors.


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## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

If you are driving in traffic and it quickly slows down and then you hear skid marks coming from behind you,  what do you do? 


... and can you tell me how you hear skid marks? that makes no sense at all 

Thanks in advance.


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## andyA6 (Nov 10, 2000)

SLC_Punker said:


> I keep my car decently clean, but don't do hardcore detailing very often. Say i want to pay for a yearly detailing (wash, swirl removal, polish, wax, etc). Would it be better to do it in the fall to protect the paint from the harshness of winter, or in the spring to clean up after winter? I plan to keep this car as long as its ringlands and headgaskets last


Fall for sure! Better protection over the winter and a refresh in the spring will do wonders.


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

82Turbo930 said:


> If you are driving in traffic and it quickly slows down and then you hear skid marks coming from behind you,  what do you do?
> 
> 
> ... and can you tell me how you hear skid marks? that makes no sense at all
> ...


 And, no escape route? 
Settle back into the seat, and prepare to get hit. I've been there. Heard the tires screaming, saw an Intrepid damned-near stood on its nose trying to stop, and said "Welp, here it comes....."


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

cuppie said:


> And, no escape route?
> Settle back into the seat, and prepare to get hit. I've been there. Heard the tires screaming, saw an Intrepid damned-near stood on its nose trying to stop, and said "Welp, here it comes....."


Would hitting the brakes help too or make it worse (for you, forget the cars)?


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## ATL_Av8r (Oct 17, 2002)

Is there somewhere I can go to learn how to drive with a trailer (especially backing) before buying one? We're considering buying a camping trailer but my trailer experience is limited to some boat ramp visits and a Uhaul tow dolly. Would like to get comfortable with the setup before subjecting the wife and kids to the experience.


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## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

cuppie said:


> And, no escape route?
> Settle back into the seat, and prepare to get hit. I've been there. Heard the tires screaming, saw an Intrepid damned-near stood on its nose trying to stop, and said "Welp, here it comes....."


I suppose if you are in a Pinto it might be worse, otherwise I think if you just relax a bit ( easy to say ) it may not be so bad. When you stiffen everything up is how you get hurt.


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## Gitcha Sum (May 27, 2008)

Ghost85 said:


> My girlfriends 2003 Explorer's rear strut tower rotted out. I'm assuming a decent welder should be able to either cut out the old mount and weld in a junkyard one, or repair it without having to cut it off the frame. My main concern is just how much will it cost. I'd have them check the other side to make sure it won't happen again. The truck is fine in every other aspect.
> 
> Sent from inside a trailer park


Poly Performance sells an aftermarket tower for about $100, there's also a generic Ford tower from older pickups that's fairly common I think they're around $40. 
A specific '03 Exploder tower could be tough to find. 
I've never seen 1 section of a frame need replaced, if the strut tower is gone, what's left to burn anything to? 




ATL_Av8r said:


> Is there somewhere I can go to learn how to drive with a trailer (especially backing) before buying one? We're considering buying a camping trailer but my trailer experience is limited to some boat ramp visits and a Uhaul tow dolly. Would like to get comfortable with the setup before subjecting the wife and kids to the experience.


Dude you got this. 
They all act so differently it would be tough. 
I have a 16' dual axle car trailer that I could do 35mph straight in reverse with, I have a 16' single axle landscaping trailer that I could parallel park. 
Like that short wide dolly just wants to jump out of line where I bet the boat was a lot easier to keep straight. 
Get what you're getting and take it to your local mall or whatever and do laps, backwards...


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

ATL_Av8r said:


> Is there somewhere I can go to learn how to drive with a trailer (especially backing) before buying one? We're considering buying a camping trailer but my trailer experience is limited to some boat ramp visits and a Uhaul tow dolly. Would like to get comfortable with the setup before subjecting the wife and kids to the experience.


Every trailer is different but the principles are all the same. Go hire or borrow a big trailer (dual axle car trailer?) and go play in an empty parking lot. If you know someone who's done a bit of towing, bring them along to pick out any glaring mistakes and give you tips. It's like learning to drive stick, it's about practice and you'll somehow still find a situation to mess up once in a while.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

Why does my dog go crazy at UPS trucks, FedEx trucks, and school busses, but not other commercial diesel trucks like mack trucks, or box trucks? He goes crazy when he hears them, not sees them, so maybe they make some noise that the human ear can't pick up?


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## Fiatdude (Jan 2, 2015)

ATL_Av8r said:


> Is there somewhere I can go to learn how to drive with a trailer (especially backing) before buying one? We're considering buying a camping trailer but my trailer experience is limited to some boat ramp visits and a Uhaul tow dolly. Would like to get comfortable with the setup before subjecting the wife and kids to the experience.


Experience is the key -- I like the suggestion of renting a trailer for practice -- -- 

The one suggestion that was given to me that really helped was to place you hand on the bottom of the steering wheel and then look over your shoulder, which ever direction you want the trailer to go,,, you move your hand in that direction..... This keeps you from making one of the biggest mistakes newbies do when learning to back a trailer -- 'turning the steering wheel to much' -- in the beginning, anything more than a quarter turn will always get you in trouble.... 

In years past, one of my best inexpensive outings was to take a lawn chair and a six-pack and go the local boat ramp on a Saturday or Sunday evening, and watch the people try to back and load their boats after a hard day of drinking and boating -- -- the fights were the best !!!!!


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## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

A.Wilder said:


> Why does my dog go crazy at UPS trucks, FedEx trucks, and school busses, but not other commercial diesel trucks like mack trucks, or box trucks? He goes crazy when he hears them, not sees them, so maybe they make some noise that the human ear can't pick up?


I know this doesn't apply to school buses, but maybe he's already associated common carrier vehicles with the guys that come close to his house, so when he hears the related sound he goes into protection mode?


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

cityjohn said:


> I know this doesn't apply to school buses, but maybe he's already associated common carrier vehicles with the guys that come close to his house, so when he hears the related sound he goes into protection mode?


We don't get that many deliveries, but i guess he can probably hear knocking from a few houses around us (townhouses).


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## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

why did my Boston Terrier hate RC cars so much???

I mean, they would drive him absolutely bonkers!!! if he caught one, it was shredded?

why all the hate???


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

You'reDrunk said:


> why did my Boston Terrier hate RC cars so much???
> 
> I mean, they would drive him absolutely bonkers!!! if he caught one, it was shredded?
> 
> why all the hate???


no room for him to ride?


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## gsprobe (Jan 29, 2006)

82Turbo930 said:


> ... and can you tell me how you hear skid marks? that makes no sense at all
> 
> .


Oh no! You got it right. Everybody here must know what skid marks sound like. I know I do. Both literal and the Fecal variety --- sometimes induced by the literal variety.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

My RE-11's are pretty much down to the first (highest) wear bars at the front, with an extra 1-2mm on the rear. I'm going back to the stock Pirellis since _winter is coming_, but I'm curious to know how much longer I can keep using the RE-11s on track. 

Don't they effectively become a slick once all the other tread besides the two center bands are gone?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

Why do most cars glue the rear view mirror to the windshield, while only a few suspend them from the ceiling? (Some Honda's and the old New Beetle come to mind.)


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## .LSinLV. (Nov 13, 2009)

wait...is this now the CSB Thread for TCL????


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## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

thegave said:


> My RE-11's are pretty much down to the first (highest) wear bars at the front, with an extra 1-2mm on the rear. I'm going back to the stock Pirellis since _winter is coming_, but I'm curious to know how much longer I can keep using the RE-11s on track.
> 
> Don't they effectively become a slick once all the other tread besides the two center bands are gone?
> 
> ...


the compound will change eventually. i wouldn't run them past the wear bar, esp at the track, because you wont realize when you are running through to the belts.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

g-man_ae said:


> Why do most cars glue the rear view mirror to the windshield, while only a few suspend them from the ceiling? (Some Honda's and the old New Beetle come to mind.)


Probably extreme windshield angles nowadays (the NB gets a pass because it's so far forward). Back in the day it was cost (a generic mirror is cheaper than a specific mirror, ie Mk2 Jetta vs. Mk2 Golf in the USA). I think it's a perception of luxury vs. basic, too. But the whole rain sensor thing just makes it convenient to expand the overhead console pod into the glass itself.


----------



## vee6gti00 (Apr 6, 2004)

When did "special editions" start? 

I started a thread with the question.

special or limited edition and its history and marketing


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## VWestlife (Sep 29, 2004)

vee6gti00 said:


> When did "special editions" start?


With the 1936 Buick Special... although there was no Buick Regular. :laugh:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buick_Special


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## Gitcha Sum (May 27, 2008)

How do I get my foot in the door at a custom/hot rod shop, or a performance/race shop? 
I've quit my job as an engineer to focus on dad stuff, but with the kids in school, I have a bunch of time I want to put towards a career re-do. 
I can run a MIG gun all day, build EFI harnesses, scratch build roll cages... I just don't have any ASE certs that would prove I'm not a complete idiot. 
Any thoughts anonymous internetters?


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## HaterSlayer (Oct 19, 2007)

I was driving and I saw a semi with a trailer that said CORVETTE on the side. I thought, "That was cool", but behind it was a car carrier with a bunch of new Vettes on it. What was the truck in front for? I thought maybe a C7R was in there but it didn't look like a racing trailer and it wouldn't be tailed by the car carrier.

Sent from my LGMS500 using Tapatalk


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## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

Is it really worth while to top your gas tank up an extra gallon or so after the clicky thing says you've already had enough?


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

82Turbo930 said:


> Is it really worth while to top your gas tank up an extra gallon or so after the clicky thing says you've already had enough?


I never do it in Gas cars. Gasoline expands quite a bit when it gets warm, and it comes out of the ground at 60ish degrees.
If you fill it to the brim, and then leave it on a hot day, it can overflow. Besides... The extra fuel you get in _most_ cars doesn't make much of a difference in the long run.

However....... in my TDI, I do it all the time. I can fit an extra 2.5 gallons after the first click, which is an extra 120 miles on the tank (or 3 days of commuting). Diesel doesn't expand as much as gasoline, so there's less chance of overflow.


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## Unilateral Phase Detractor (Aug 23, 2005)

Slightly complex tire question: 

I've now settled on getting a new Mazda CX-5 in a couple months. In the meantime, I'm trying to figure out a winter tire setup that doesn't cause problems. Stock tires are 225/55 R19 on 7 inch wide rims (which is crazy narrow for that size). The "Sport" trim has 225/65 R17 tires, also with 7 inch wide rims. Thinking of getting a set of 17s for winter because moar sidewall. 

From what I gather it's good to have tires with approximately the same outer diameter so you don't have issues with the speedometer being off and who knows what else. However I can't get a good read on how far off it will be. The problem is they measured the diameter for the 19" tires using a 7' wide rim, but the 17" tires are measured using a 6.5" wide rim. With that in mind, the 19s are 28.9" and the 17s are 28.5" on a 6.5" rim. I would guess that mounting those 17" tires on a 7" wide rim would make the diameter smaller, or maybe not? 

Halp.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

Surf Green said:


> ....
> 
> However....... in my TDI, I do it all the time. I can fit an extra 2.5 gallons after the first click, which is an extra 120 miles on the tank (or 3 days of commuting). Diesel doesn't expand as much as gasoline, so there's less chance of overflow.


Also, with diesel, it tends to foam, and prematurely shut off the pump.



classicjetta said:


> Slightly complex tire question:
> 
> I've now settled on getting a new Mazda CX-5 in a couple months. In the meantime, I'm trying to figure out a winter tire setup that doesn't cause problems. Stock tires are 225/55 R19 on 7 inch wide rims (which is crazy narrow for that size). The "Sport" trim has 225/65 R17 tires, also with 7 inch wide rims. Thinking of getting a set of 17s for winter because moar sidewall.
> 
> ...


According the the tire stretch guys, the tire height does not shrink with wheel width. Haven't proven this myself, but if you think of the tire in a three dimensions instead of the just \___/, the tread/rolling surface would't change in a significant way.


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## Electron Man (Sep 21, 1999)

82Turbo930 said:


> Is it really worth while to top your gas tank up an extra gallon or so after the clicky thing says you've already had enough?


Simple solution for you: If you need gasoline, leave the house/apartment ~20 minutes early so you'll have time to wait on the person ahead of you who does this, yet still be on-time to your destination.

 :beer:


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## Unilateral Phase Detractor (Aug 23, 2005)

monoaural said:


> Also, with diesel, it tends to foam, and prematurely shut off the pump.
> 
> 
> 
> According the the tire stretch guys, the tire height does not shrink with wheel width. Haven't proven this myself, but if you think of the tire in a three dimensions instead of the just \___/, the tread/rolling surface would't change in a significant way.


I guess that makes sense. Just trying to cover all the bases before dropping $1000 on new wheels and tires.


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## Quinn1.8t (Oct 8, 2006)

classicjetta said:


> I guess that makes sense. Just trying to cover all the bases before dropping $1000 on new wheels and tires.


Maybe a stupid question, but have you looked on Tire Rack? They have plenty of winter wheel and tire combinations available for the CX5.


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## Unilateral Phase Detractor (Aug 23, 2005)

Quinn1.8t said:


> Maybe a stupid question, but have you looked on Tire Rack? They have plenty of winter wheel and tire combinations available for the CX5.


I've been spending tons of time there and got the diameter measurements from them. One thing I noticed is nobody makes a 19x7 aftermarket wheel. The other option could be to go with a 225/60 R18 but the potential for different diameter wouldn't change vs the 17.


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## Quinn1.8t (Oct 8, 2006)

classicjetta said:


> I've been spending tons of time there and got the diameter measurements from them. One thing I noticed is nobody makes a 19x7 aftermarket wheel. The other option could be to go with a 225/60 R18 but the potential for different diameter wouldn't change vs the 17.


I guess I'm still confused. Tire Rack will give you suggestions that will work for your application, with the correct overall diameter, etc. 

http://www.tirerack.com/snow/Winter...5&autoYear=2016&autoModClar=Grand+Touring+AWD


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## Unilateral Phase Detractor (Aug 23, 2005)

Quinn1.8t said:


> I guess I'm still confused. Tire Rack will give you suggestions that will work for your application, with the correct overall diameter, etc.
> 
> http://www.tirerack.com/snow/Winter...5&autoYear=2016&autoModClar=Grand+Touring+AWD


I guess I'll rephrase: I'm sure those packages work OK, but the diameter isn't exactly the same for smaller sets (28.5 vs 28.9 stock). Does that matter?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

classicjetta said:


> I guess I'll rephrase: I'm sure those packages work OK, but the diameter isn't exactly the same for smaller sets (28.5 vs 28.9 stock). Does that matter?


As long as all 4 wheels are the same (especially for AWD), you're fine. The speedometer will read slightly different, but some newer cars can adjust for this in the settings. 

According to https://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp

"SPEEDOMETER:	When speedometer reads 60mph (96.6km/h) actual speed will be 59.4mph (95.6km/h): 1% slower."

This is acceptable.

(et and wheel width don't affect the diameter, except when you set the width to something ridiculous and the tire width adjusts to accommodate)


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## 2.0smurf (Sep 7, 2006)

Late 2000's Bmw 328XI with 60-80k miles... Bad choice to purchase? I'd only put 5-7k miles on it a year tops... Should I avoid? If not what are some pitfalls?

*EDIT: Looking at a 2008 328xi with 70k miles for 13.5k*


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## Unilateral Phase Detractor (Aug 23, 2005)

VDub2625 said:


> As long as all 4 wheels are the same (especially for AWD), you're fine. The speedometer will read slightly different, but some newer cars can adjust for this in the settings.
> 
> According to https://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp
> 
> ...


:thumbup: Good to know, I'm overthinking it.


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## fR3ZNO (May 5, 2014)

Is shaft play in a turbo directly related to how efficiently it makes boost?


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Another tyre question: Functionally speaking, what is the point of running wider wheels other than running wider tyres? 

Right now I'm running 195/50 on 15x6 ET 35 rim. I will be getting some 15x7 rims but am concerned 205/50 will give me clearance issues. So is there any point running the wider wheels with the same size tyre since they will be heavier? The wider wheels also have lower offset (ET25) so even more likely to rub.


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## 0dd_j0b (Sep 22, 2007)

I have one. Always been curious, in newer cars, we'll take my 13' WRX for example, 5MT. If I'm driving down the highway with cruise control on, and I take it out of gear, will the cruise control shut off?

Same question for older model car with a manual trans using vacuum for cruise. Like my old Scirocco.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Newer cars will shut off cruise if clutch or brake pedal depressed. No idea about older cars, but I assume same thing. 

If you take it out of gear without touching the clutch... That would be interesting.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

thegave said:


> Newer cars will shut off cruise if clutch or brake pedal depressed. No idea about older cars, but I assume same thing.
> 
> If you take it out of gear without touching the clutch... That would be interesting.


The scirocco has a shut off switch on the clutch. If you manage to pull it out of gear without the clutch, I am pretty sure it will bounce off of the rev limiter. It would be rather difficult to pull it out when its under load, but maybe when you are going downhill, you may be able to manage it. 
Newer car, may have over rev protection built into the cruise control. Or at least a max throttle/rev setting.


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## julianv (Mar 10, 1999)

Here in the Seattle metro area we sometimes see small blue lights on the back side of traffic lights - that is, facing in the opposite direction of the larger red, yellow, and green lights in the housing. Usually these blue lights are installed at major multi-lane intersections. The blue lights turn on and off, but I have not been able to figure out the pattern. What is their purpose?


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

monoaural said:


> The scirocco has a shut off switch on the clutch. If you manage to pull it out of gear without the clutch, I am pretty sure it will bounce off of the rev limiter. It would be rather difficult to pull it out when its under load, but maybe when you are going downhill, you may be able to manage it.
> Newer car, may have over rev protection built into the cruise control. Or at least a max throttle/rev setting.


My GTI is like this. If you push in the clutch, it'll disengage the CC. If you pop it out of gear sans clutch while there's no load on the driveline, it'll free rev to the limiter.


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## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

VDub2625 said:


> Probably extreme windshield angles nowadays (the NB gets a pass because it's so far forward). Back in the day it was cost (a generic mirror is cheaper than a specific mirror, ie Mk2 Jetta vs. Mk2 Golf in the USA). I think it's a perception of luxury vs. basic, too. But the whole rain sensor thing just makes it convenient to expand the overhead console pod into the glass itself.


OK but not every car has that (not even as an option or non-poverty-spec feature), and before 20 years ago (IIRC) such sensors were unheard of. Yet they've been glueing the mirror to the windshield for as long as I can remember.


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## J2G (Aug 9, 2012)

Follow-up to the cruise control discussion. What would happen if I set cruise while in neutral?


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## DonL (Feb 28, 1999)

julianv said:


> Here in the Seattle metro area we sometimes see small blue lights on the back side of traffic lights - that is, facing in the opposite direction of the larger red, yellow, and green lights in the housing. Usually these blue lights are installed at major multi-lane intersections. The blue lights turn on and off, but I have not been able to figure out the pattern. What is their purpose?


My understanding is that the blue lights are timed to the red light and allows cops to determine if somebody runs the red light. 

Did some checking and came across this: http://mynorthwest.com/11/707873/Blue-light-special-for-red-light-runners .


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## Vee-Dubber-GLI (Nov 27, 2006)

IJM said:


> My GTI is like this. If you push in the clutch, it'll disengage the CC. If you pop it out of gear sans clutch while there's no load on the driveline, it'll free rev to the limiter.


Yeah, brake or clutch pedal disengages the cruise control on my car.



J2G said:


> Follow-up to the cruise control discussion. What would happen if I set cruise while in neutral?


I don't think it would set.  :laugh: "Alright, cruise control is set to... idle! And away we... stay in the same spot." 

Any idea if the SAI can be activated via VAG-Com/VCDS? I know it can run the tests to see if the solenoid/combi-valve/pump work, but I got failed on a smog test for it not showing active, as in it didn't respond to the check by the smog equipment. On cold starts, the RPMs rise to normal levels, the pump turns on and doesn't make the loud buzz/rattle like the rivets backed out, and then RPMs drop back to normal.


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## tyintegra (Sep 14, 2010)

DonL said:


> My understanding is that the blue lights are timed to the red light and allows cops to determine if somebody runs the red light.
> 
> Did some checking and came across this: http://mynorthwest.com/11/707873/Blue-light-special-for-red-light-runners .


I was told this same thing by a cop before. It allows them to park away from the intersection (where they can't see the normal lights) and still be able to tell if someone ran the light.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

g-man_ae said:


> OK but not every car has that (not even as an option or non-poverty-spec feature), and before 20 years ago (IIRC) such sensors were unheard of. Yet they've been glueing the mirror to the windshield for as long as I can remember.


Cost, as I mentioned... bespoke costs money... it comes down to the image you want to convery vs. the cost to get there (similar to soft touch dashes, fabric choices, etc). Though many new cars have worked the cost of a different mirror down enough that it's common today. 



0dd_j0b said:


> I have one. Always been curious, in newer cars, we'll take my 13' WRX for example, 5MT. If I'm driving down the highway with cruise control on, and I take it out of gear, will the cruise control shut off?
> 
> Same question for older model car with a manual trans using vacuum for cruise. Like my old Scirocco.





monoaural said:


> The scirocco has a shut off switch on the clutch. If you manage to pull it out of gear without the clutch, I am pretty sure it will bounce off of the rev limiter. It would be rather difficult to pull it out when its under load, but maybe when you are going downhill, you may be able to manage it.





J2G said:


> Follow-up to the cruise control discussion. What would happen if I set cruise while in neutral?



I wondered this in my old GLI 16v too. So, I figured out how it was wired, and what happened when you tried different things. VW and Audi used the same type of cruise control from the 80s up until the Mk4s/B5s, which was a simply wired brain that got power when the stalk switch was turned on (and, in automatics, only when it was in "D" did the switch get power to pass to the module). It then monitored the speed sensor, and ran the vacuum pump or vent valve to pull and release the throttle as necessary to maintain that speed. If you pulled the stick out of gear, it would rev, not straight to the limiter, but it would act as if the throttle still controlled the speed, and try to match. There was a defeat built in, where if it couldn't accelerate fast enough, or reach the set speed quick enough, it gave up (this was easy to induce by setting the speed to, say, 70, slowing down to 50, and resuming. If it didn't get to that speed in, like 10 seconds, it would give up, which also had the unfortunate effect of giving up the cruise if you were in a high gear with a big load going uphill ). Setting it in neutral (manual, remember in autos it's only in "D") would do the same thing, surprisingly. There are also brake and clutch interrupt switches, as mentioned. 

Newer cars (VWs, anyway, and I imagine it's industry standard) use the engine computer to listen to the brake signal, the gear position in an automatic, and the switch positions to control now-electric throttles. I always wondered if this meant cruise was more efficient, as it could respond faster to changes in situation (for example, with old vacuum cruise, cresting a sharp hill was usually met with fast acceleration, until the module realized the speed, and then a sharp throttle cut and slowdown). Newer radar cruise systems can read the road, I think, and respond almost like a human. They most certainly can read cars ahead.

I don't know of newer cars having a gearstick position sensor, does anyone else know? In the old VWs with the "big" reverse switch plug, there were switches available that could monitor Neutral, 1st, 4th, 5th, and reverse for various functions (auto start-stop would pay attention to 1st and neutral, and the upshift light would pay attention to whichever was top gear to disable it).


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

fR3ZNO said:


> Is shaft play in a turbo directly related to how efficiently it makes boost?


simply put, no.

but it depends on the type of play and the design of the turbo.

a small amount of fore/aft play is usually fine (by desing in the k03/4 line), due to the bearing design. Axial play is bad, usually means the wheels are hitting the sidewalls. Efficiency isn't your concern at that point, functionality is. turbo wheels hitting the walls means your turbo is walking the green mile (death row). maybe it lasts year more, maybe it dies tomorrow.


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## Egz (May 30, 2002)

Okay, really stupid question.

Jacked up all four wheels for the tear down. Went to remove the front wheels, and realized I forgot to crack the lugnuts. Four came off without problem with the impact, but the last one is the stupid lock lugnut that needs the key, and hitting that with the impact seemed to be ineffective, outside of marring up the key. Putting a breaker bar on it would just cause wheel spin.

If I got someone to sit in side, should the brakes be strong enough to hold back the wheel, or are there other ideas for getting that lugnut off, without putting it back on the ground. I'd like to save that for the last resort.


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## PnZrFsT (Mar 8, 2007)

Egz said:


> *If I got someone to sit in side, should the brakes be strong enough to hold back the wheel*, or are there other ideas for getting that lugnut off, without putting it back on the ground. I'd like to save that for the last resort.


Yep, this should work no problem.


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

Egz said:


> Okay, really stupid question.
> 
> Jacked up all four wheels for the tear down. Went to remove the front wheels, and realized I forgot to crack the lugnuts. Four came off without problem with the impact, but the last one is the stupid lock lugnut that needs the key, and hitting that with the impact seemed to be ineffective, outside of marring up the key. Putting a breaker bar on it would just cause wheel spin.
> 
> If I got someone to sit in side, should the brakes be strong enough to hold back the wheel, or are there other ideas for getting that lugnut off, without putting it back on the ground. I'd like to save that for the last resort.


yes, especially if there's still some vacuum left in the booster


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## 0dd_j0b (Sep 22, 2007)

VDub2625 said:


> Cost, as I mentioned... bespoke costs money... it comes down to the image you want to convery vs. the cost to get there (similar to soft touch dashes, fabric choices, etc). Though many new cars have worked the cost of a different mirror down enough that it's common today.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Awesome, appreciate all the cruise control responses.


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## jmaddocks (Jan 31, 2004)

VDub2625 said:


> Newer cars (VWs, anyway, and I imagine it's industry standard) use the engine computer to listen to the brake signal, the gear position in an automatic, and the switch positions to control now-electric throttles.


A few years ago when we were moving cross country, I was driving the LX450 w/ trailer, and my wife was behind me in the Corrado. She asked me over the walkie talkie, "does the cruise control work?" I had just spent the last ~3 years converting the Corrado to a 16v turbo with standalone fuel injection (yeah, I'm slow...), which involved ripping out the majority of the OEM wiring harness. I had always assumed the cruise control interfaced somehow w/ the fuel injection ECU. When she asked that question, I quickly ran through every system I had touched and couldn't think of anything specifically related to the cruise control. I replied to her, "It might...give it a shot. Wait, let me get out of the way."  Turns out the cruise control still worked (and still does), but it feels a like a new driver who isn't very good at maintaining a constant speed...and who's a bit drunk. Big throttle body + turbo lag obviously changed the system response enough to render the cruise control only marginally effective.

Caveat: I know the cruise control interfaces with the ECU and other systems on newer cars -- just wanted to point out that it's essentially a federated system on VWs of that vintage. 



VDub2625 said:


> I always wondered if this meant cruise was more efficient, as it could respond faster to changes in situation (for example, with old vacuum cruise, cresting a sharp hill was usually met with fast acceleration, until the module realized the speed, and then a sharp throttle cut and slowdown).


Hanging out in the ecomodder forums and learning how to hypermile a few years ago, I would imagine a modern cruise control is probably more efficient than the average driver, but it's definitely less efficient than driving w/ hypermiling techniques (e.g., allowing the vehicle to speed up on the downhills and bleed off speed going back uphill), even w/ modern systems.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

jmaddocks said:


> A few years ago when we were moving cross country, I was driving the LX450 w/ trailer, and my wife was behind me in the Corrado. She asked me over the walkie talkie, "does the cruise control work?" I had just spent the last ~3 years converting the Corrado to a 16v turbo with standalone fuel injection (yeah, I'm slow...), which involved ripping out the majority of the OEM wiring harness. I had always assumed the cruise control interfaced somehow w/ the fuel injection ECU. When she asked that question, I quickly ran through every system I had touched and couldn't think of anything specifically related to the cruise control. I replied to her, "It might...give it a shot. Wait, let me get out of the way."  Turns out the cruise control still worked (and still does), but it feels a like a new driver who isn't very good at maintaining a constant speed...and who's a bit drunk. Big throttle body + turbo lag obviously changed the system response enough to render the cruise control only marginally effective.
> 
> Caveat: I know the cruise control interfaces with the ECU and other systems on newer cars -- just wanted to point out that it's essentially a federated system on VWs of that vintage.


Yep, Corrados have the same system i described above- power to the module through the switch, and the switch monitors the speed sensor and powers the vacuum pump (somewhere in the engine bay) to control the throttle valve (in a Corrado, on the pedal cluster, but in Mk2s and older, it's on the engine).

it's used to working with lower power engines, and there is a certain delay built in to be able to check the feedback of the speed sensor after throttle adjustments- wild throttles make for wild adjustments


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## mike in SC (Apr 29, 2004)

More on the cruise control question. While coasting in neutral, I set the CC. The engine would have been bouncing off of the rev limiter if not cancelled. My car is a. 2005 EP3 civic. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

g-man_ae said:


> Why do most cars glue the rear view mirror to the windshield, while only a few suspend them from the ceiling? (Some Honda's and the old New Beetle come to mind.)


I wonder if it's anything to do with height/distance from the driver. Windshield mount means it's further away from the driver which gives him a wider view, and can be mounted lower.




Egz said:


> Okay, really stupid question.
> 
> Jacked up all four wheels for the tear down. Went to remove the front wheels, and realized I forgot to crack the lugnuts. Four came off without problem with the impact, but the last one is the stupid lock lugnut that needs the key, and hitting that with the impact seemed to be ineffective, outside of marring up the key. Putting a breaker bar on it would just cause wheel spin.
> 
> If I got someone to sit in side, should the brakes be strong enough to hold back the wheel, or are there other ideas for getting that lugnut off, without putting it back on the ground. I'd like to save that for the last resort.


Is the wheel spinning while it's in gear? I always try to take the locking bolt off first


----------



## Ed52 (May 21, 2001)

*Colors - Who Decides on the Various Colors?*

Is it the manufacturer who formulates the colors and then submits them to the paint companies or is it the paint companies saying, "Hey we have a new shade of white, check it out?


----------



## RollingInDubs (Jan 23, 2003)

Ed52 said:


> Is it the manufacturer who formulates the colors and then submits them to the paint companies or is it the paint companies saying, "Hey we have a new shade of white, check it out?


I think the paint companies "showcase" ideas, but ultimately it's up to the manufacturer. 

I'm just envisioning PPG sales guys walking into Toyota Corporate. 

"Just WAIT till you see the new shade of beige we created. It really makes you feel like you're in a Nebraska Wheat Field!"


----------



## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

RollingInDubs said:


> I think the paint companies "showcase" ideas, but ultimately it's up to the manufacturer.
> 
> I'm just envisioning PPG sales guys walking into Toyota Corporate.
> 
> "Just WAIT till you see the new shade of beige we created. It really makes you feel like you're in a Nebraska Wheat Field!"


 LOL

...hay wait a minute, Wheat Beige Metallic -- that's Volkswagen.


----------



## Baltimoron (Oct 10, 2001)

Not sure if it's been asked already but this has been bothering me for a while-

If I want to accelerate to a certain speed. ex. from 40mph to 65mph, is it more efficient to downshift and use less throttle and more revs to accelerate faster or leave it in a higher gear and use more throttle and less revs to accelerate at a slower rate?

If you need more information let's use my Jeep as the vehicle in question.

At 40mph in 6th gear I am turning about 1200-1400 RPM and 2400-2500 at 65mph. Acceleration is pretty terrible in top gear so I would need about 20secs at 75% throttle to get from 40-65mph. If I downshift to 4th I could accelerate from 40-65 in 10secs using 50% throttle.


----------



## jmaddocks (Jan 31, 2004)

CoolWhiteWolfsburg said:


> Not sure if it's been asked already but this has been bothering me for a while-
> 
> If I want to accelerate to a certain speed. ex. from 40mph to 65mph, is it more efficient to downshift and use less throttle and more revs to accelerate faster or leave it in a higher gear and use more throttle and less revs to accelerate at a slower rate?
> 
> ...


I've read many times that gas engines are more efficient at lower revs and higher throttle settings. That higher efficiency is due in part to a reduction in intake drag with the throttle butterfly open further.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

mike in SC said:


> More on the cruise control question. While coasting in neutral, I set the CC. The engine would have been bouncing off of the rev limiter if not cancelled. My car is a. 2005 EP3 civic.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I thought this question came up here (in this thread or on CL in general), and the consensus was higher revs with less fuel is more efficient? I think it has to do with the engine itself, and where it's MPG sweet spot is. Either way, you don't want full WOT, becuase then most cars go into enrich mode, where they dump fuel. Might be better to sit just off the end of WOT.


----------



## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

VDub2625 said:


> I thought this question came up here (in this thread or on CL in general), and the consensus was higher revs with less fuel is more efficient? I think it has to do with the engine itself, and where it's MPG sweet spot is. Either way, you don't want full WOT, becuase then most cars go into enrich mode, where they dump fuel. Might be better to sit just off the end of WOT.


I've always heard it's better it get up to speed quickly with ~75% throttle load, then upshift. Like you said, you don't want to go WOT for various reasons.


----------



## AZGolf (Jun 6, 2000)

How... how do you even get in this situation, and then not know how to fix it yourself?


----------



## Ed52 (May 21, 2001)

*Pre Delivery Inspection*

What exactly is done in a Pre Delivery Inspection of a new car?


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

Ed52 said:


> What exactly is done in a Pre Delivery Inspection of a new car?


'Exactly' would probably differ from dealer to dealer and/or manufacturer.

Overall, my understanding is the inspection is the last quality review before the vehicle hits the customer.
They check overall functionality of the vehicle, body alignment, and most importantly damage from shipping.
I think a lot of the time it's mostly damage from shipping for cheaper types of vehicles.
The more expensive the car (in general however) the more in depth inspection they do.


----------



## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

*Lease Question*

Hi, Mother is unhappy in her 2015 Subaru Outback lease. Is there any reasonable alternative to staying in the Outback for the remainder of the lease period? It started in January 2015 and goes until April 2018. The other concern is there are not many other new cars available right now that she likes. Pic for clicks:


----------



## VAsteve (Jan 14, 2003)

If disc brakes are better than drums in cars, why do 18-wheelers still use drums?


----------



## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

size and weight of the disc that would be required.

surface area contact of a drum brake, less drag in a drum, pneumatic force.

Im not an expert, but these seem like the logical answers... maybe someone else?


----------



## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

CoolWhiteWolfsburg said:


> Not sure if it's been asked already but this has been bothering me for a while-
> 
> If I want to accelerate to a certain speed. ex. from 40mph to 65mph, is it more efficient to downshift and use less throttle and more revs to accelerate faster or leave it in a higher gear and use more throttle and less revs to accelerate at a slower rate?
> 
> ...


with drive by wire, the throttle opening is actually controlled by the ECU. If you floor it at 40mph at 1500RPM in top gear, the throttle butterfly will not be full open. If you logged it, you would see requested- 100%, actual 35%; because the ECU knows better than your foot how to get the most out of the engine and keep AFR in equilibrium.

at that point you're really looking at whether you use more fuel running at 1500RPM for 30 seconds, or 4000RPM for 7 seconds. Also do you have enough time/space to take 30 seconds for a pass?


----------



## Electron Man (Sep 21, 1999)

VAsteve said:


> If disc brakes are better than drums in cars, why do 18-wheelers still use drums?


Drum brakes are not as susceptible to water film when driving in rain (_Oh sh*t no brakes! is a very bad thing in a Peterbuilt_ ). 

Safety first.


----------



## pmanpop (Jun 25, 2010)

Electron Man said:


> Drum brakes are not as susceptible to water film when driving in rain (_Oh sh*t no brakes! is a very bad thing in a Peterbuilt_ ).
> 
> Safety first.


Not 100% sure but theoretically wouldn't having a system pressurized by air be more reliable since there is less servicing regarding the fluid and cavitation of the fluid especially since the trailers aren't owned by the drivers sometimes.


----------



## Gefallene der drachen (Jun 22, 2015)

rstolz said:


> size and weight of the disc that would be required.
> 
> surface area contact of a drum brake, less drag in a drum, pneumatic force.





VAsteve said:


> If disc brakes are better than drums in cars, why do 18-wheelers still use drums?


Basically it was the ability to have more surface area and a larger thermal mass stuffed inside of a standard size wheel, disks can only be so big, drums can be.as wide as needed for weight capacity. 

Simplicity, cost and "failsafe" nature have slowed the development of discs, but the new FMVSS 121(requiring shorter stopping distances) have lead some truck manufacturers to start using discs more in the last few years. 

Generally drums have more drag than disc.


----------



## Gefallene der drachen (Jun 22, 2015)

Ed52 said:


> What exactly is done in a Pre Delivery Inspection of a new car?


----------



## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

So if you totally tailgate every semi on the road and stay in their draft and pop your car in neutral on every down hill, plan ahead and 'time' every traffic light so you don't have to use your brakes or ever stop, turn your car off at stop lights, at train tracks, behind school busses and garbage trucks when they are stopped and when traffic is bump to bumper and creeping along at about 1 mph, you push your car instead of sitting inside and wasting gas letting it idle, how much of in increase in gas mileage can you expect to see say if your car normally gets 25 mpg?


----------



## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

ok, so if I tied a bunch of helium weather balloons or hot air balloons to my car and had them cranked up just enough so the tires of my car were still on the ground, would I be able to save wear and tear on my tires and shocks that way?  


Part B. If something goes wrong,  do I have any choice where I land?


----------



## burnthesheep (May 4, 2012)

82Turbo930 said:


> So if you totally tailgate every semi on the road and stay in their draft and pop your car in neutral on every down hill, plan ahead and 'time' every traffic light so you don't have to use your brakes or ever stop, turn your car off at stop lights, at train tracks, behind school busses and garbage trucks when they are stopped and when traffic is bump to bumper and creeping along at about 1 mph, you push your car instead of sitting inside and wasting gas letting it idle, how much of in increase in gas mileage can you expect to see say if your car normally gets 25 mpg?


I know this was in jest, but for about 9 months I commuted 75 miles one way for work with minimal traffic.

2004 Civic normally saw about 33 or 34 hwy mpg. Adding a $5 garden edging front air dam, proper tire pressures always, and following a lot of semi's on the hwy got me from 34 to about 41 mpg.

I would find one going about 5 mph over the speed limit and hang behind at a safe/respectful distance. I would ease off the gas up hill and speed back up to 5-7 over downhill.

It went from about 34 to 38 mpg on driving habits. It went from 38-41 after an "oops" on a timing belt job meant new valves and new head gasket. The new head gasket/seals netted me to the 41 mpg with better driving habits.

That car was "listed" as 44 or something from the factory. Not sure how they pulled that off.


----------



## Giovanni (May 13, 2000)

does it matter if I mix synthetic oil and dino oil? Sometimes I top off my oil with regular oil and the rest of the oil is synthetic.


----------



## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

82Turbo930 said:


> ok, so if I tied a bunch of helium weather balloons or hot air balloons to my car and had them cranked up just enough so the tires of my car were still on the ground, would I be able to save wear and tear on my tires and shocks that way?
> 
> 
> Part B. If something goes wrong,  do I have any choice where I land?


Effectively, what you are doing is lightening your car, so you'd save tire and shocks. But, your suspension would be at (nearly) full droop all the time, which isn't good for the bushing and possibly the shocks.

Also, keep a BB gun/ .22/ shot gun in your car do blow out the balloons for a choice on where to land.


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

VAsteve said:


> If disc brakes are better than drums in cars, why do 18-wheelers still use drums?


ohhhhh great question.

If disk brakes are better, key word is if... in some situations.

Pro's to disk brakes
-Lighter weight
-Quicker modulation for ABS and VSA functions (this is the main reason why on passenger cars)
-Cooling rate
-Less parts

Pro's to drum brakes
-Cheaper (very important for commercial vehicles)
-Pad life (they are massive in size)
-Massive heat capacity for the drum
-Higher brake effectiveness (yes, drums actually more effective than disk brakes)


Commercial trucks are basically non stop, they need long life parts and they need them to be cheap. You'll be surprised how cheap a brake job is for a tractor. The life and massive amount of heat capacity required for commercial brakes is best packaged as a drum. That mixed with the high effectiveness of a drum application and being able to be boosted by non hydraulic actuation is the reason why they still exist today.

Another application where high heat capacity is required is aircraft, however the weight is the highest concern. So these are carbon-carbon multi disk packs like a clutch system, and incredibly expensive.


----------



## Aw614 (May 9, 2001)

burnthesheep said:


> I know this was in jest, but for about 9 months I commuted 75 miles one way for work with minimal traffic.
> 
> 2004 Civic normally saw about 33 or 34 hwy mpg. Adding a $5 garden edging front air dam, proper tire pressures always, and following a lot of semi's on the hwy got me from 34 to about 41 mpg.
> 
> ...


When my 2002 Civic was newish and before E10 was widely used, I was able to get high 30s in the city, low 40s on the highway, it went down a bit after E10 became widespread in the mid 2000s.


----------



## MAC (Dec 9, 1999)

What are those chains that hang down from the rear axles of a lot of heavy duty trucks? I see it on ambulances mostly. And why are they usually just long enough to constantly skip along the road?


----------



## Quinn1.8t (Oct 8, 2006)

MAC said:


> What are those chains that hang down from the rear axles of a lot of heavy duty trucks? I see it on ambulances mostly. And why are they usually just long enough to constantly skip along the road?


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

VAsteve said:


> If disc brakes are better than drums in cars, why do 18-wheelers still use drums?


Because they work better in the application, just like they work better on old cars that were designed with them. I've never seen a disc brake conversion that worked as people thought they should. No one ever seems to get the from/rear bias right.


----------



## MAC (Dec 9, 1999)

Quinn1.8t said:


>


Wow.


----------



## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

AZGolf said:


> How... how do you even get in this situation, and then not know how to fix it yourself?


Was this a mexican build car?


----------



## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

GTijoejoe said:


> ohhhhh great question.
> 
> If disk brakes are better, key word is if... in some situations.
> 
> ...



Weird because I've had cars that the drum brakes faded to nothing in a panic stop  Maybe commercial trucks use completely oversized brakes and can get away with it.


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

82Turbo930 said:


> Weird because I've had cars that the drum brakes faded to nothing in a panic stop  Maybe commercial trucks use completely oversized brakes and can get away with it.


I understand your point, but your assumption is correct.
The same could be said about any comparison to another disk system for instance.
Friction and thermal capacity would control that fade by its sizing, not necessarily the type of brake.
There are more pro's and con's then what I listed, I just wanted to give an introductory type of answer which is good enough for most people.

There are some disk brakes for light duty commercial trucks (ambulance size), normally for front application.
Tractors carry so much weight that drum brakes are a drop in the bucket, capacity and cost of repair would be a primary reason for that application.


----------



## Fiatdude (Jan 2, 2015)

I need the Vortex's Help on this one -- -- --

Background ::: I was out Drag racing my ACVW and had a gentleman approach me and ask me this question -- -- 



*""" Hey Dude, could you help me out??? I've got two different sets of ported heads and I don't know which one is the best -- My buddy says to bolt one of each up onto the engine and the one that works the best will cause the car to pull in the opposite direction...... What do you think?????"""*



My jaw hurt from it hitting the ground so hard -- -- The only reply I could come up with was ""It's worth a try"" -- -- Was I being bad by leading him further a stray???


----------



## Harpoon (Jan 5, 2008)

Giovanni said:


> does it matter if I mix synthetic oil and dino oil? Sometimes I top off my oil with regular oil and the rest of the oil is synthetic.


Yes, no worries at all. American Petroleum Institute (the API "starburst" symbol on all major oil brand bottles) ensures that dino and syn oil are compatible. Many brands sell synthetic blend oils off the shelf which is already both mixed, and most "conventionals" these days (Group II+ for my oil geeks out there) actually contain a small percentage of synthetic to pass tightening motor oil standards.


----------



## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

Fiatdude said:


> I need the Vortex's Help on this one -- -- --
> 
> Background ::: I was out Drag racing my ACVW and had a gentleman approach me and ask me this question -- --
> 
> ...




Yeah, if the car flips on the passenger side, the driver side head is the one you want. If it flips on the drivers side, the passenger head is the stronger head.


----------



## Avus (Sep 20, 2000)

Do all hybrid cars' "combine power" are (not) full time power? For example, CRZ has a combine power of 130hp. 110hp from gasoline engine and 20hp from electric motor. If I track the CRZ, will I always get 130hp from both engine/motor? Or will I actually use up battery (not charging fast enough in racing) so I will get full power (130hp) at the beginning and then I only get 110hp (engine only) and then full power on and off because the battery keep charging and discharging??


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

Avus said:


> Do all hybrid cars' "combine power" are (not) full time power? For example, CRZ has a combine power of 130hp. 110hp from gasoline engine and 20hp from electric motor. If I track the CRZ, will I always get 130hp from both engine/motor? Or will I actually use up battery (not charging fast enough in racing) so I will get full power (130hp) at the beginning and then I only get 110hp (engine only) and then full power on and off because the battery keep charging and discharging??


Typically all hybrid vehicles will deplete the electric power faster than it can regen. So yes, if you flog the hell out of any of these vehicles eventually you'll be 100% engine. There is no specific answer to how long it will last, depends on electric energy withdraw, battery capacity, and regen.


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

barry2952 said:


> Because they work better in the application, just like they work better on old cars that were designed with them. I've never seen a disc brake conversion that worked as people thought they should. No one ever seems to get the from/rear bias right.


So why does everyone convert rear drums to disks? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JustPassingBy (Oct 28, 2013)

do transmission/coolant "flushes", include everything a "replace transmission/coolant" service has? Flush might be a buzzword, I don't want to pay extra for something that isn't worth it.
thanks


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

thegave said:


> So why does everyone convert rear drums to disks?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Because they've never experienced properly adjusted drum brakes. A lot has to do with the lining material. A lot has to do with the arcing of the shoes to the drums. If you put new shoes in an old drum it will only have a small contact watch and underperform and glaze the overheated patch. Maximum contact from day one is the only way to properly set up drum brakes. There are very few places that do that, but most semi truck repair shops do them as drum is still the predominant brake system for big trucks. The first shop I worked in had a machine, but they were extremely hazardous and most went away.

The biggest problem with drums is heat dissipation, but, if you're not driving a race car in the mountains it's rarely been a problem for the average consumer. Imagine the billions of miles that were driven at speed before disc even came along. Appropriately sized dum brakes are just as effective under normal conditions as disc.

Rear brakes do a lower level task than the fronts so I really not understand the swap for a normal car.


----------



## carissa0528 (Nov 16, 2015)

*2010 VW CC DSG "unofficial" warranty*

Car is currently at the dealer who is looking into why (twice in one week) my car suddenly slipped out of DRIVE while at a stop light. I was advised of a leak coming from the front cover about a month ago when i was getting my oil changed. CPO up at 58k miles. Currently just under 75k miles. Please advise on the "unofficial" DSG transmission warranty i have been reading about on the forum. Thanks!


----------



## SICKVDUB1 (Sep 1, 2008)

Could a bad CAT cause top end issues? Car has power through the lower part of the band after 4k RPM the car feels dead, it revs, it moves just not at the same pace. 

VW GOL 1.6L engine 8V


----------



## the brit (Jun 23, 2003)

carissa0528 said:


> Car is currently at the dealer who is looking into why (twice in one week) my car suddenly slipped out of DRIVE while at a stop light. I was advised of a leak coming from the front cover about a month ago when i was getting my oil changed. CPO up at 58k miles. Currently just under 75k miles. Please advise on the "unofficial" DSG transmission warranty i have been reading about on the forum. Thanks!


Your thread over here is probably better for specific questions. 

I would say that any fluid leak is worth investigating, and that any of the more complicated auto transmissions are really not going to enjoy being run low on fluid. 

A good one for this thread would be a question about your fear of being ripped off..: "i dont want to be bent over on the price of this repair as i am a woman and im sure they see me as a target for extra dollar signs.", if you want to get insight into that.



SICKVDUB1 said:


> Could a bad CAT cause top end issues? Car has power through the lower part of the band after 4k RPM the car feels dead, it revs, it moves just not at the same pace.
> 
> VW GOL 1.6L engine 8V


Yeah, a blocked cat could that do that, but it could also be a bunch of other more complicated things. If you have the ability to remove the cat and look through it you should be able to see if it's clogged pretty damn quickly to rule it out.


----------



## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

Ok, could you actually build a car with all the buttons that Speed Racer has on his powerful Mach V's steering wheel and make them truly function in day to day street driving? 











..... or not?


----------



## EUROTHRASH (Oct 25, 2007)

Hello everyone,

Currently I have a 5.0 swapped e36 m3, with some sort of draw that kills the battery over a few days if I don't drive it. My question is, can I install a battery shut off and switch that every time I park to stop the draw?


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

barry2952 said:


> The biggest problem with drums is heat dissipation, but, if you're not driving a race car in the mountains it's rarely been a problem for the average consumer. Imagine the billions of miles that were driven at speed before disc even came along. Appropriately sized dum brakes are just as effective under normal conditions as disc.
> 
> Rear brakes do a lower level task than the fronts so I really not understand the swap for a normal car.


So disks are better than drums for track cars because they dissipate heat faster, but drums generally have a higher heat capacity?


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

thegave said:


> So disks are better than drums for track cars because they dissipate heat faster, but drums generally have a higher heat capacity?


I don't know about heat capacity, but brake shoes have more friction surface than brake pads. Drums trap heat, so they aren't great for race cars, but how many people actually track their car? Fewer than those that say they do, I'm sure.

Disc brakes do regenerate their braking power faster than drum after driving through deep water, but how often does that happen?


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I think most people convert drums to discs for maintenance purposes, and they look cooler  I think it's easier to service discs than drums.

This reminds me of the OHC vs. OHV argument. They both work well enough, and both have their minor benefits and drawbacks (which change depending on the specific requirements). One is considered "old" and the other "new". Does it really matter? No. But I like the way my rear discs look  As for fronts, I think discs are better on passenger cars, no?



EUROTHRASH said:


> Hello everyone,
> 
> Currently I have a 5.0 swapped e36 m3, with some sort of draw that kills the battery over a few days if I don't drive it. My question is, can I install a battery shut off and switch that every time I park to stop the draw?


You could, but why not figure out what it is? Plus, modern ECUs need power when off to do some things, and keep memory, don't they?


----------



## jmaddocks (Jan 31, 2004)

EUROTHRASH said:


> Hello everyone,
> 
> Currently I have a 5.0 swapped e36 m3, with some sort of draw that kills the battery over a few days if I don't drive it. My question is, can I install a battery shut off and switch that every time I park to stop the draw?





VDub2625 said:


> You could, but why not figure out what it is?


x2 

Run one of your battery cables through an ammeter, then start pulling fuses until you find the circuit with the current draw.


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

VDub2625 said:


> I think it's easier to service discs than drums.


Not if you actually know what you're doing. 

Drums are far less susceptible to corrosion.


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

jmaddocks said:


> x2
> 
> Run one of your battery cables through an ammeter, then start pulling fuses until you find the circuit with the current draw.


It's easier to pull a fuse and use a test light across the terminals. The degree of brightness tells you the draw.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

barry2952 said:


> Not if you actually know what you're doing.
> 
> Drums are far less susceptible to corrosion.


Strange thing I've noticed is, with the Mk6 Jetta at least, the drums cost way more to replace than the discs. Rear discs (parts only, that's my dept) run $180-200, rear drums are $360. And they don't seem to last longer... I've sold them on cars with 40-60k, and my Mk6 Golf's 4 wheel discs are still OE at 72k...


----------



## EUROTHRASH (Oct 25, 2007)

barry2952 said:


> It's easier to pull a fuse and use a test light across the terminals. The degree of brightness tells you the draw.


Perhaps it's not as big a project as I thought. Would I have to fiddle with the harness? I can say without a doubt, that I'm not comfortable doing that.


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

EUROTHRASH said:


> Perhaps it's not as big a project as I thought. Would I have to fiddle with the harness? I can say without a doubt, that I'm not comfortable doing that.


This is a voltage probe. Normally you hook one end to ground to see if you have voltage at a particular connection. Used as a draw tester you just pull a fuse and touch one side with the clip and one side with the probe.

A large draw will make the light quite bright as the current is running through a tiny bulb filament. A small draw will be harder to distinguish so you may have to do it in a darkened 

area. You won't have to touch the harness for this troubleshooting.


----------



## EUROTHRASH (Oct 25, 2007)

barry2952 said:


> This is a voltage probe. Normally you hook one end to ground to see if you have voltage at a particular connection. Used as a draw tester you just pull a fuse and touch one side with the clip and one side with the probe.
> 
> A large draw will make the light quite bright as the current is running through a tiny bulb filament. A small draw will be harder to distinguish so you may have to do it in a darkened
> 
> area. You won't have to touch the harness for this troubleshooting.


A simple enough process. Thanks for the advice!


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

I can tell there is certainly some confusion about drums vs disk brakes.
Keep in mind the pro's and con's are not about how the parts are designed but how they actually function.

I can design a disk brake to have more heat capacity than a drum, more pad area, and be heaver than a drum brake system.
Comparing to these metrics would leave you confused and uneducated.



barry2952 said:


> I don't know about heat capacity, but brake shoes have more friction surface than brake pads. Drums trap heat, so they aren't great for race cars, but how many people actually track their car? Fewer than those that say they do, I'm sure.
> 
> Disc brakes do regenerate their braking power faster than drum after driving through deep water, but how often does that happen?


There are many reasons why racecars don't use drum brakes.
Weight, service, complexity, thermal management, modulation, pedal feeling.

The largest benefit of a racecar is dedicated cooling and high speed, this significantly cuts down on the heat capacity demand required by a disk. 
This is opposite say for a tractor. Low speed, virtually no cooling. Even if the brake energy where the same racecar vs tractor, the tractor can't shed the heat and would require more capacity in the disk/drum.




VDub2625 said:


> Strange thing I've noticed is, with the Mk6 Jetta at least, the drums cost way more to replace than the discs. Rear discs (parts only, that's my dept) run $180-200, rear drums are $360. And they don't seem to last longer... I've sold them on cars with 40-60k, and my Mk6 Golf's 4 wheel discs are still OE at 72k...


Drum brakes are dirt cheap. A typical drum brake corner cost less than a disk caliper alone.
From the service sales side, you are seeing the cause and effect from a low volume product vs high volume product based on a strategy by the OE. If you look at various vehicle line ups, if they are equipped with drums its usually the lowest grade, that's because of cost.


----------



## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

jmaddocks said:


> x2
> 
> Run one of your battery cables through an ammeter, then start pulling fuses until you find the circuit with the current draw.


 Excellent way to start. Tells you what the total draw is. 
For best results, use a clamp-on ammeter. Breaking the circuit can (sometimes) 'fix' the draw (temporarily.) 



barry2952 said:


> It's easier to pull a fuse and use a test light across the terminals. The degree of brightness tells you the draw.


 Even easier: do a voltage drop check across each fuse. It's 100% non-invasive, and 100% accurate (assuming that your meter is accurate in its low mV DC range.) 
http://info.powerprobe.com/fusechartsdownload


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## .MiCh. (Oct 18, 2007)

EUROTHRASH said:


> Hello everyone,
> 
> Currently I have a 5.0 swapped e36 m3, with some sort of draw that kills the battery over a few days if I don't drive it. My question is, can I install a battery shut off and switch that every time I park to stop the draw?


I have this same problem with my truck. Max it can sit before the battery is dead is 4 days.

Thank you all for the advice on how to find the problem!


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## Juicebox432 (Jul 18, 2013)

What can cause an off idle acceleration bog when the engine is fully warmed up? This is in my spridget. 
When the engine is cool, the off idle acceleration is excellent. It's fine for about 10 miles but then gets worse the more miles I go once the engine fully warms up.

I've switched to heavier weight oil in the dashpots to keep the pistons from raising too fast, the car still bogs off idle when hot.
The timing is correct and doesn't jump around it used to with the old Lucas 25D.
The SU needles are centered when fully seated and the floats are set to spec.

I rebuilt the carbs last summer with all new parts, the ignition coil (Lucas Sport) is two years old, new wires, new plugs, and the distributor is a new Pertronix unit replaced earlier this year.

I'm a bit confused as to what's causing the bog.


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

Still sounds like the floats may be sticking and it's loading up. Have you considered the Grose jets to see if that fixes it?


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

So my Mazda3's AC compressor went up in smoke this year which is ok since I don't need it that often anyway. Instead of spending $$ to fix it, I just cut the belt running it (only thing running on that belt). The problem is, my car has the supah fawnsay auto climate system, so by design it kicks on AC in a lot of conditions. Does running AC without actually having a working compressor bad? Am I forcing any other parts unnecessarily? I know the fan kicks on when it detects AC is activated, but other than that I'm not sure. Should I also pull the AC relay?


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## the brit (Jun 23, 2003)

Elite_Deforce said:


> So my Mazda3's AC compressor went up in smoke this year which is ok since I don't need it that often anyway. Instead of spending $$ to fix it, I just cut the belt running it (only thing running on that belt). The problem is, my car has the supah fawnsay auto climate system, so by design it kicks on AC in a lot of conditions. Does running AC without actually having a working compressor bad? Am I forcing any other parts unnecessarily? I know the fan kicks on when it detects AC is activated, but other than that I'm not sure. Should I also pull the AC relay?


You won't be "running AC" (as you know..), your car will just be trying to switch the compressor on by engaging the clutch which is controlled by a electromagnet. So with the belt removed, the system will supply +12v when it wants it to turn on, the clutch will engage, and nothing will happen. That's about it. If you don't want to output the 12v, you could remove the relay, but it won't really change anything. 

The only annoying thing would be if your fancy auto climate system tries to increase the cabin fan speed etc trying to make the cabin cool down faster etc. I hate it when cars do this when the A/C system hasn't got up to speed yet as they're just blowing warm out really fast. Switching the system manually to slower speeds or a different temp etc normally stops it pretty quickly.


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

the brit said:


> You won't be "running AC" (as you know..), your car will just be trying to switch the compressor on by engaging the clutch which is controlled by a electromagnet. So with the belt removed, the system will supply +12v when it wants it to turn on, the clutch will engage, and nothing will happen. That's about it. If you don't want to output the 12v, you could remove the relay, but it won't really change anything.
> 
> The only annoying thing would be if your fancy auto climate system tries to increase the cabin fan speed etc trying to make the cabin cool down faster etc. I hate it when cars do this when the A/C system hasn't got up to speed yet as they're just blowing warm out really fast. Switching the system manually to slower speeds or a different temp etc normally stops it pretty quickly.


Thanks. Lucky my fancy auto system isn't fancy enough to do that. I'm gonna pull the relay if anything but to reduce draw.

Bonus question: how long do you think the rest of the AC components will last without them needing to be repaired without being run?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Elite_Deforce said:


> I'm gonna pull the relay if anything but to reduce draw.


it's a miniscule draw, not anything to worry about. i wouldn't mess more than just removing the belt.

How did the compressor 'blow up'?

When there is low pressure in the ac system (such as a blown line etc), there are sensors to stop it from kicking on the clutch anyway. Depends on how your compressor blew.

Did the clutch kick in with the compressor "blown up" but with the AC on? If so, pressure is good and just the compressor is bad. if not, then there might be other things wrong.

If the system still has pressure, it'll be fine not being used indefinitely.


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

VDub2625 said:


> it's a miniscule draw, not anything to worry about. i wouldn't mess more than just removing the belt.
> 
> How did the compressor 'blow up'?
> 
> ...


Compressor is dead, mechanic/family friend confirmed and it was rattling like a few nuts in a tin can real bad right after it went. Compressors are notoriously unreliable in these cars anyway, I'm sure the fancy auto climate system didn't help. Same for the automatic starter that the PO told me had a feature that would "Start and run the car for 3 min every hour overnight to keep it warm". I'm expecting my starter motor to go at any time because of that. :banghead::banghead:


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## VWmk3GTI (May 4, 2013)

if I put 89 octane in a car that normally uses 87,What affects would it have on the engine


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## J2G (Aug 9, 2012)

Nothing. Absolutely nothing.


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## thetopdog (Nov 11, 2008)

Does anybody know why the McLaren F1 had such poor skidpad (0.86g) and slalom (64.5mph) times when tested by Road and Track? Surely these numbers aren't indicative of what this car is capable of

http://www.roadandtrack.com/new-car...s/reviews/a18688/extreme-machines-mclaren-f1/


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

VWmk3GTI said:


> if I put 89 octane in a car that normally uses 87,What affects would it have on the engine





J2G said:


> Nothing. Absolutely nothing.


Correct, for the most part. And for an explanation why:

Octane is the fuel's resistance to burn. The lower the grade, the easier it'll burn. An engine designed for 87 means that it has characteristics that work with (relatively) easily-burned fuel (low compression, ignition timing, etc). An engine that is designed for 87 filled with 89 won't do anything extra with that resistance to burn. But an engine designed for 89, or 91 etc, will be designed in a way that 87 would pre-detonate (due to compression, retarded timing, etc). This is knock, and it's bad. But the other way doesn't do anything, good or bad, in most cases.

There are a lot of cars being built now that are "designed" to run on 87 (the compression is designed to work with 87, and the ECU will notice the knock and adjust the timing accordingly to reduce it). This lowers power and economy. But, the gas door may say "87 required" but putting "93" in it will get better results, even though for all appearances the engine runs fine on both. The owner's manuals will state if it can take advantage of the higher octane.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

VDub2625 said:


> Correct, for the most part. And for an explanation why:
> 
> Octane is the fuel's resistance to burn. The lower the grade, the easier it'll burn. An engine designed for 87 means that it has characteristics that work with (relatively) easily-burned fuel (low compression, ignition timing, etc). An engine that is designed for 87 filled with 89 won't do anything extra with that resistance to burn. But an engine designed for 89, or 91 etc, will be designed in a way that 87 would pre-detonate (due to compression, *retarded* timing, etc). This is knock, and it's bad. But the other way doesn't do anything, good or bad, in most cases.



higher octane allows for more advanced ignition timing.

the ignition timing gets pulled by the ECU after the knock sensors pick up on the knocking/pinging, thereby also reducing power. retarding the timing is the solution to the knock/ping; not the problem.



:thumbup:


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

Why do trucks compression braking make more noise than the explosions of the engine? I just read a piece on Jake brakes and still don't get why opening the exhaust valve just before TDC on the compression stroke would make more vibration that a full-throttle application.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

TwoLitreVW said:


> higher octane allows for more advanced ignition timing.
> 
> the ignition timing gets pulled by the ECU after the knock sensors pick up on the knocking/pinging, thereby also reducing power. retarding the timing is the solution to the knock/ping; not the problem.


Tell me if I am imagining this or not. It feels like my car pulls timing (feels like very slight hesitation if I give it a lot of gas at low revs, like if I'm coasting up to a red light in 2nd at 1500 RPM, then floor it when the light turns green). It doesn't do it in the spring/fall/winter but in the summer it is pretty noticeable, especially if it is over 100°F - the car feels like a dog and gets kind of reluctant to rev.

I tried a few tanks of 89 the last time it was really hot and the hesitation seemed to be exorcised and the car felt peppier and much more willing to rev. Is this all in my brain? I do probably drive the car more spiritedly than the average Yaris owner, running it out to the redline a few times a day. I can't hear any knocking or pinging and the car only requires 87 octane with a relatively low power 1.5-liter engine.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

TwoLitreVW said:


> higher octane allows for more advanced ignition timing.
> 
> the ignition timing gets pulled by the ECU after the knock sensors pick up on the knocking/pinging, thereby also reducing power. retarding the timing is the solution to the knock/ping; not the problem.
> 
> ...


Well, I was thinking of it from the perspective of, the car's designed for this radical timing, which is why they require higher octane fuel. Different point of view, I guess, but the same result. The only thing different now is that manufacturers are preparing for it and telling the customer that it's ok to use lower octane fuel, you'll just suffer power loss as a result. I think back in the day engine technology wasn't what it is today, and "allowing" ping to occur before timing is pulled may have been worse than it is now. 



adrew said:


> Tell me if I am imagining this or not. It feels like my car pulls timing (feels like very slight hesitation if I give it a lot of gas at low revs, like if I'm coasting up to a red light in 2nd at 1500 RPM, then floor it when the light turns green). It doesn't do it in the spring/fall/winter but in the summer it is pretty noticeable, especially if it is over 100°F - the car feels like a dog and gets kind of reluctant to rev.
> 
> I tried a few tanks of 89 the last time it was really hot and the hesitation seemed to be exorcised and the car felt peppier and much more willing to rev. Is this all in my brain? I do probably drive the car more spiritedly than the average Yaris owner, running it out to the redline a few times a day. I can't hear any knocking or pinging and the car only requires 87 octane with a relatively low power 1.5-liter engine.


Sounds kinda normal (bogging can cause ping and retarded timing, which can be "fixed" by higher octane, but not necessarily be the right thing to do). Maybe better spark plugs, or a fuel cleaner?


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## J2G (Aug 9, 2012)

I know of people in hot climates (Texas included) who report the same thing, on other cars. I wonder if it has anything to do with intake air temperatures.


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

worth_fixing said:


> Why do trucks compression braking make more noise than the explosions of the engine? I just read a piece on Jake brakes and still don't get why opening the exhaust valve just before TDC on the compression stroke would make more vibration that a full-throttle application.


 Because a diesel has a compression pressure of (IIRC) close to 600 psi(!). 
Pop the exhaust valves at that kind of pressure, and it's gonna make a bunch of noise. 
On the exhaust stroke (on any engine - diesel or gas), the cylinder pressure is far, far lower (read: not much above ambient.)


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## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

Ok  ... so

Say you've been drinking a few to several of those cheap import beers on an empty stomach, you know, the ones that are about 8% or so.... and you decide to whoop up some angel hair pasta. You call the GF and she will be over shortly with her stupid import wine which will just give you a splitting headache later on. :facepalm:

So, anyway you have the meat sauce all finished, salad is prepared and garlic cheese toast is primed and ready to bake, but you SUDDENLY realize you are totally out of pasta sauce  Which car will get you to the store and back before the beer fully kicks in and puts you over the legal OVI limit.... and which will be the safest in case you take out a mail box or some shopping carts on the way there? 

Toyota Supra MkII vintage?
Acura RSX type S?
1983 VW GTI?
1974 Chevy1/2 ton pickup with a 454 and T400?
2010 Caterpillar 850 hp D11T bulldozer? 






There will be a test later on at the end of this thread to see who got the correct answer


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## Nealric (Feb 16, 2013)

82Turbo930 said:


> Ok  ... so
> 
> Say you've been drinking a few to several of those cheap import beers on an empty stomach, you know, the ones that are about 8% or so.... and you decide to whoop up some angel hair pasta. You call the GF and she will be over shortly with her stupid import wine which will just give you a splitting headache later on. :facepalm:
> 
> ...


Miata.


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## J2G (Aug 9, 2012)

I have a question: I know my car is burning oil. Does the soot on the exhaust tip automatically mean piston rings? Or can it be valve stem seals or something else?

If I'm burning from piston rings gonna start saving for a swap. Anything else I'll repair.


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

J2G said:


> I have a question: I know my car is burning oil. Does the soot on the exhaust tip automatically mean piston rings? Or can it be valve stem seals or something else?
> 
> If I'm burning from piston rings gonna start saving for a swap. Anything else I'll repair.


Could be rings, could be valve seals, could be oil sucked into the PCV system.... impossible to diagnose over the computer.


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

82Turbo930 said:


> Ok  ... so
> 
> Say you've been drinking a few to several of those cheap import beers on an empty stomach, you know, the ones that are about 8% or so.... and you decide to whoop up some angel hair pasta. You call the GF and she will be over shortly with her stupid import wine which will just give you a splitting headache later on. :facepalm:
> 
> ...


This is a Top Gear episode right here.


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## J2G (Aug 9, 2012)

saron81 said:


> Could be rings, could be valve seals, could be oil sucked into the PCV system.... impossible to diagnose over the computer.


I was wondering if I'd still have carbon on the exhaust tips if it was something other than rings.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

A wet compression test can tell you if it's rings or something else. "wet" meaning drop some oil into the cylinder (to seal the rings), and see if the compression changes vs. dry. I haven't done it myself so I suggest looking up more exact instructions. 

It would be impossible to tell otherwise, as oil will burn the same way whether it's from rings, valves, or anywhere else.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

J2G said:


> I was wondering if I'd still have carbon on the exhaust tips if it was something other than rings.


Yes, carbon is a product of combustion


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## alleghenyman (Nov 20, 2003)

Why is grams per mile of CO2 emitted considered a better measurement of energy consumption than miles per gallon of fuel used? I See why it would be better to compare diesel to gasoline consumption due to the differing energy densities of each fuel, but is it any more precise for comparing gasoline-to-gasoline consumption?


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## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

alleghenyman said:


> Why is grams per mile of CO2 emitted considered a better measurement of energy consumption than miles per gallon of fuel used? I See why it would be better to compare diesel to gasoline consumption due to the differing energy densities of each fuel, but is it any more precise for comparing gasoline-to-gasoline consumption?


It depends. Grams per mile definitely emphasize CO2 production more so than 'mileage.' Given efficient-enough combustion, one gallon of gas will lead to X grams of CO2 because of stoichiometry. Gasoline is a mixture of various compounds, so its exact stoichiometric equation eludes me, but lets take a simpler example, ethanol:

C2H6O+3O2⟶2CO2+3H2O

if ethanol burned completely. Now we know that gasoline engines don't burn fuel 100% completely, and that's why we have other byproducts of combustion (carbon monoxide, for one).

So (again using ethanol as an example), we can see that one molecule burned leads to 2 CO2 molecules. So if we can count how many CO2 molecules are released, we know how many molecules of fuel were burnt. 

Grams/mile is a bit better in accuracy than miles per gallon because the number of gasoline molecules in a gallon changes based on temperature and pressure.


Basically, all that rambling leads to this: Both methods are a measure of how much fuel is burned in a given distance of travel. Grams/CO2 can be a bit more accurate as to how much fuel was burned, but Miles/Gallon is a more useful measure to the public if they want to know how far their cars can go. But, like all units, there are conversions that can be applied and after using one unit for a while it kind of becomes second nature.


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## AHTOXA (Dec 2, 2007)

Why do motorcycles engine brake so effectively compared to cars? Is this strictly a function of engine size vs. weight of vehicle or are there other criteria? 

For example, in normal riding I rarely use the brakes until I am almost stopped (as long as no one's behind me, otherwise I tap the brakes to indicate me slowing). This is on a 650cc dual sport bike. 


On the flip side, who do some cars engine brake so poorly? For example, my current Forester's engine braking is nearly imperceptible, even with healthy downshifting. I suspect this has something to do with engine ECU, but even when injectors are completely off (as via scangauge by observing GPH readout) it still feels weak; weaker than most cars I've ever driven with various engine sizes.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Dave discovered why the spring stacks were different heights.










All of the smaller springs had a good arc and match each other nearly perfectly. However, one of the main springs is significantly more squat than the other.

There's about an inch and a half difference in height.










Back in 2002, when I got my Mark II it was dragging its tail and it made a cacophony of creaks and groans going down the road. I was still running my business full-time so I took it to a local spring shop. They found my liners broken and missing and apparently they just wire brushed the rust, reassembled and painted the assembly. Needless to say it started making noise all over again.

However, they were able to recurve the main spring on mine, but I wasn't there so I don't know how they did it. 13 years later and the car still rides at the right height. What did they do? Heat? Brute force?


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

AHTOXA said:


> Why do motorcycles engine brake so effectively compared to cars? *Is this strictly a function of engine size vs. weight of vehicle or are there other criteria? *
> 
> For example, in normal riding I rarely use the brakes until I am almost stopped (as long as no one's behind me, otherwise I tap the brakes to indicate me slowing). This is on a 650cc dual sport bike.
> 
> ...


More or less. Bikes are light, man. Engine braking is pronounced. In your Forester, which I'm assuming is a 4-cylinder, the engine is small compared to the weight of the vehicle so engine braking won't be that intense. In my Mustang, which is a 5.0L, engine braking is very noticeable because of the weight of all those pistons.


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## arozanski (Apr 2, 2003)

Elite_Deforce said:


> More or less. Bikes are light, man. Engine braking is pronounced. In your Forester, which I'm assuming is a 4-cylinder, the engine is small compared to the weight of the vehicle so engine braking won't be that intense. In my Mustang, which is a 5.0L, engine braking is very noticeable because of the weight of all those pistons.


Depends on the bike, too. My Harley engine brakes well, while the KZ1000 I had did not. Most of the four cylinder (in line and opposed) bikes I had did not engine brake well, while the V-twins did. My KLR650 was a single and that would engine brake okay too.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

alleghenyman said:


> Why is grams per mile of CO2 emitted considered a better measurement of energy consumption than miles per gallon of fuel used? I See why it would be better to compare diesel to gasoline consumption due to the differing energy densities of each fuel, but is it any more precise for comparing gasoline-to-gasoline consumption?


Is it? I thought car makers just use it to target the eco-conscious buyer who cares more about what direct impact their car has on the environment than how much it cost to run (fuel efficiency).


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

thegave said:


> Is it? I thought car makers just use it to target the eco-conscious buyer who cares more about what direct impact their car has on the environment than how much it cost to run (fuel efficiency).


In various countries (Europe) you are taxed on your C02 emissions, that's the importance of knowing what it is.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

thegave said:


> Is it? I thought car makers just use it to target the eco-conscious buyer who cares more about what direct impact their car has on the environment than how much it cost to run (fuel efficiency).





GTijoejoe said:


> In various countries (Europe) you are taxed on your C02 emissions, that's the importance of knowing what it is.


I thought at first that CO2 emissions were a measure of cleanliness for the environment, too (and for some country's taxes). I didn't know that you could calculate efficiency from the emissions too... but Smigelski posted above how it's possible. That's some cool science right there!


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

It gives you efficiency of the combustion cycle, but not necessarily efficiency of the engine. They're related, but not perfect. You could have a perfect stoich combustion, every molecule of fuel burned, but if all that perfect burning doesn't produce any torque or hp (in a car engine) then you're still going to have to consume enormous amounts of fuel to move your vehicle 1 mile or 1 Km. It doesn't take into account all the other things that make a vehicle move; things like rotational momentum, parasitic loss, friction and drag losses, gearing, blah blah blah. 

that's an extreme example, obviously, but shows the point. Put MPG and gCO2 together and you have a really good idea jsut how efficient your VEHICLE is. look at them separately, and it's like watching 3D TV with one eye closed.

I'm not knocking it at all, you just have to be cognizant that one isn't necessarily better than the other, they work together to give you a more complete picture.


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

VDub2625 said:


> A wet compression test can tell you if it's rings or something else. "wet" meaning drop some oil into the cylinder (to seal the rings), and see if the compression changes vs. dry. I haven't done it myself so I suggest looking up more exact instructions.
> 
> It would be impossible to tell otherwise, as oil will burn the same way whether it's from rings, valves, or anywhere else.


I've used the wet compression test to great effect. It really is as simple as running the compression test as normal once, then dump a capful of oil into the cylinder via the spark plug hole, and rerunning the test. then compare numbers. If the number shoots up, you have a ring issue, if it stays low, your valves are toast.


Additionally a compression test can tell you if your head gasket is shot. If it is, you'll see multiple cylinders affected, in a neat bell curve. If ideal compression is 180psi, and you see 160, 140, 135, 148, your headgasket is blown, somewhere between the cylinders measuring 140 and 135. 

Bad rings and bad valves will show up as local to the affected cylinder (assuming just one cylinder has the issue).


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## dromanbujak600 (Oct 26, 2005)

Why is Mitsubishi 3000 GT called a "Peruvian supercar"?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

dromanbujak600 said:


> Why is Mitsubishi 3000 GT called a "Peruvian supercar"?


:laugh: :laugh: I forgot about that one. 

(some guy on here from Peru was bragging about his "supercar", to the point it became a TCL meme, this was like 5+ years ago now!)



rstolz said:


> It gives you efficiency of the combustion cycle, but not necessarily efficiency of the engine. They're related, but not perfect. You could have a perfect stoich combustion, every molecule of fuel burned, but if all that perfect burning doesn't produce any torque or hp (in a car engine) then you're still going to have to consume enormous amounts of fuel to move your vehicle 1 mile or 1 Km. It doesn't take into account all the other things that make a vehicle move; things like rotational momentum, parasitic loss, friction and drag losses, gearing, blah blah blah.
> 
> that's an extreme example, obviously, but shows the point. Put MPG and gCO2 together and you have a really good idea jsut how efficient your VEHICLE is. look at them separately, and it's like watching 3D TV with one eye closed.
> 
> I'm not knocking it at all, you just have to be cognizant that one isn't necessarily better than the other, they work together to give you a more complete picture.


Interesting. But I think there are two measurments... CO2 straight up, and CO2/mile, wouldn't CO2/mile show you moving efficiency like MPG? Especially since as it was said a gallon of gas doesn't always have the same energy density. if you use the chemical formula to find out how much fuel has been used, over the course of a distance, what makes that different from MPG? Trying to wrap my head around it


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## alleghenyman (Nov 20, 2003)

Thanks Smigelski and rstolz. :thumbup:


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## IronJoe (Dec 23, 2004)

Okay, here's one. Two of our cars have paddle shifters ('06 Miata and '10 Jetta DSG). I really enjoy using them as they are both very compliant and they both shift quick (surprised by how quick the Miata's gear changes are, it's almost as good as the DSG). The problem is, I find myself having a near-impossible time switching gears via the paddle shifters while in a corner. 

It seems like if I'm in a corner, my hands are never anywhere near the paddles, and looking down at the wheel to find their position and then initiate the gearchange feels unsafe and cumbersome. When in those situations, I normally end up reaching down and moving the lever up or down with my right hand (like you would in a manual). 

But doesn't that defeat the entire purpose of having paddle shifters? To change gears without my hands leaving the steering wheel? Obviously this is an efficient way to go as many race cars use paddles now, _so what am I missing_?


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

IronJoe said:


> Okay, here's one. Two of our cars have paddle shifters ('06 Miata and '10 Jetta DSG). I really enjoy using them as they are both very compliant and they both shift quick (surprised by how quick the Miata's gear changes are, it's almost as good as the DSG). The problem is, I find myself having a near-impossible time switching gears via the paddle shifters while in a corner.
> 
> It seems like if I'm in a corner, my hands are never anywhere near the paddles, and looking down at the wheel to find their position and then initiate the gearchange feels unsafe and cumbersome. When in those situations, I normally end up reaching down and moving the lever up or down with my right hand (like you would in a manual).
> 
> But doesn't that defeat the entire purpose of having paddle shifters? To change gears without my hands leaving the steering wheel? Obviously this is an efficient way to go as many race cars use paddles now, _so what am I missing_?


I don't see why you should have a problem with that paddle setup. If your hands are at 9-3 (where they should be), it shouldn't be hard to know where the down button is and where the paddles are. Both paddles shift up, so just grab one, no?


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## IronJoe (Dec 23, 2004)

Elite_Deforce said:


> I don't see why you should have a problem with that paddle setup. If your hands are at 9-3 (where they should be), it shouldn't be hard to know where the down button is and where the paddles are. Both paddles shift up, so just grab one, no?


It's incredibly easy and natural while the wheel is in this position - but if you're in a corner, and you are turning the wheel properly (hand over hand), the wheel is now cocked at an angle and your hands are nowhere near the paddles. 


Now, if you were Patrick George... your hands would always be where the paddles are, no matter what angle the wheel was at


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

Hand over hand for track, maybe... but anyway. If you have both hands on the wheel, it's not difficult to take one off to hit the paddle. :bs:


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

VDub2625 said:


> Interesting. But I think there are two measurments... CO2 straight up, and CO2/mile, wouldn't CO2/mile show you moving efficiency like MPG? Especially since as it was said a gallon of gas doesn't always have the same energy density. if you use the chemical formula to find out how much fuel has been used, over the course of a distance, what makes that different from MPG? Trying to wrap my head around it


:thumbup: 
not much. you've got it. 
I had a big long response typed. I condensed it:
either way you can get to the same goal of showing efficiency, it comes down to how you measure. for a consumer you can see the volume of fuel you put in, and the distance traveled that equates to. With gCO2/Km, you're asking a consumer to do a lot more math to figure out what that number means, after all, you don't fill up on gCO2, you fill up on liters or gallons.

However, gCO2/km is very relevant to clean emissions, or how "green" your car is. It's extremely relevant to manufacturer's and government agencies testing tailpipes. It's just not relevant to the interests of 99% of people who buy a car to get from A to B, and want to know simply how far 1 gallon, or 1liter of fuel will carry them.


----------



## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

IronJoe said:


> Okay, here's one. Two of our cars have paddle shifters ('06 Miata and '10 Jetta DSG). I really enjoy using them as they are both very compliant and they both shift quick (surprised by how quick the Miata's gear changes are, it's almost as good as the DSG). The problem is, I find myself having a near-impossible time switching gears via the paddle shifters while in a corner.
> 
> It seems like if I'm in a corner, my hands are never anywhere near the paddles, and looking down at the wheel to find their position and then initiate the gearchange feels unsafe and cumbersome. When in those situations, I normally end up reaching down and moving the lever up or down with my right hand (like you would in a manual).
> 
> But doesn't that defeat the entire purpose of having paddle shifters? To change gears without my hands leaving the steering wheel? Obviously this is an efficient way to go as many race cars use paddles now, _so what am I missing_?


It's not terribly efficient to be shifting mid-corner.


----------



## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

VDub2625 said:


> :laugh: :laugh: I forgot about that one.
> 
> 
> Interesting. But I think there are two measurments... CO2 straight up, and CO2/mile, *wouldn't CO2/mile show you moving efficiency like MPG?* Especially since as it was said a gallon of gas doesn't always have the same energy density. if you use the chemical formula to find out how much fuel has been used, over the course of a distance, *what makes that different from MPG?* Trying to wrap my head around it


A) Yes.

B) Not much. You do have to deal with imperfect combustion for CO2/km (some of that C and O make CO instead of CO2), but other than that, they are measuring the same thing.


----------



## MBrown (Aug 1, 2000)

IronJoe said:


> Okay, here's one. Two of our cars have paddle shifters ('06 Miata and '10 Jetta DSG). I really enjoy using them as they are both very compliant and they both shift quick (surprised by how quick the Miata's gear changes are, it's almost as good as the DSG). The problem is, I find myself having a near-impossible time switching gears via the paddle shifters while in a corner.
> 
> It seems like if I'm in a corner, my hands are never anywhere near the paddles, and looking down at the wheel to find their position and then initiate the gearchange feels unsafe and cumbersome. When in those situations, I normally end up reaching down and moving the lever up or down with my right hand (like you would in a manual).
> 
> But doesn't that defeat the entire purpose of having paddle shifters? To change gears without my hands leaving the steering wheel? Obviously this is an efficient way to go as many race cars use paddles now, _so what am I missing_?


My other car has paddles on the wheel, and I do something similar with the console lever if I'm in the middle of a corner.

I think the point of the paddles is that *once commanded*, the shift happens much faster than a human can do it. As the driver, you can anticipate the shift and position your hand suitably (either on the paddle or the lever), but the car doesn't have the intuition to know it's coming (though, clearly, it can anticipate that a shift is coming soon).


----------



## VWmk3GTI (May 4, 2013)

Why are Jeep TJ cooling systems such garbage compared to other cars?


----------



## HaterSlayer (Oct 19, 2007)

Why is it that when you have a bad steering rack it is easy to turn right, but hard to turn left.

Sent from my LGMS500 using Tapatalk


----------



## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

HaterSlayer said:


> Why is it that when you have a bad steering rack it is easy to turn right, but hard to turn left.
> 
> Sent from my LGMS500 using Tapatalk


_Unqualified answer:_ maybe because the wheel is on the left so its easier to push for right than to pull for left?


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

HaterSlayer said:


> Why is it that when you have a bad steering rack it is easy to turn right, but hard to turn left.
> 
> Sent from my LGMS500 using Tapatalk


Could it have anything to do with the fact that the rack is not straight cut, and the teeth are angled one way?


----------



## 6mtsedan (Jun 27, 2011)

why dont they make oil pans bigger to prevent running low on oil?


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

6mtsedan said:


> why dont they make oil pans bigger to prevent running low on oil?


Sometimes they do.


----------



## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

Why do some cars have interference engines and some don't? Hondas typically do.

You would think it wouldn't be that big of a deal to notch the pistons a little bit, but maybe that screws up with how much compression they can get away with / combustion effeciency on crappy gas.

Anyone know?


----------



## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

*Nissan Rogue*

What is this radiator-like shape object under the 2nd generation Nissan Rogues?


----------



## AHTOXA (Dec 2, 2007)

VWmk3GTI said:


> Why are Jeep TJ cooling systems such garbage compared to other cars?


Elaborate. I've had a TJ and wheeled it, along with other TJs in the group and none of us had ever had cooling issues, even after radiators were dunked in mud.


----------



## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

DonPatrizio said:


> What is this radiator-like shape object under the 2nd generation Nissan Rogues?


Probably a tranny cooler. Not sure why they put it there, I guess no room in the front.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I think that might be a combination of the suspension and plastics on the bumpr looking like some sort of cooler. 

Though Corvette guys used to rear-mount turbos because of packaging reasons, so anything's possible


----------



## MBrown (Aug 1, 2000)

VDub2625 said:


> I think that might be a combination of the suspension and plastics on the bumpr looking like some sort of cooler.
> 
> Though Corvette guys used to rear-mount turbos because of packaging reasons, so anything's possible


I can't really see from the photo, but could it be either exhaust system or fuel tank?


----------



## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

VDub2625 said:


> I think that might be a combination of the suspension and plastics on the bumpr looking like some sort of cooler.
> 
> Though Corvette guys used to rear-mount turbos because of packaging reasons, so anything's possible


Yeah, looks like there is nothing back there except the muffler - looks your brain created an illusion by blending that serrated fill panel in the middle of the bumper (other markets have a reflector there) with the aero thing?/skid plate? just behind the muffler.


----------



## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

Thanks Adrew. I searched high and low for an underside picture of a 2nd gen Rogue but couldn't find one. I was wondering because on the newest Rogues that metal piece is bright metal/polished and looked so like a type of cooler. I will try to get a picture of one.


----------



## thetopdog (Nov 11, 2008)

What exactly is so bad about running a car for a short period of time and turning it off before the engine is fully warm? What precisely is happening inside the engine and how much damage is it realistically doing? My Viper is my daily driver and I take it out for short trips to the gym or the supermarket or whatever all the time, how bad is this for the car? If I use top-quality synthetic oil and make sure I change my oil regularly does it really matter that I take it on frequent short trips?


----------



## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

thetopdog said:


> What exactly is so bad about running a car for a short period of time and turning it off before the engine is fully warm? What precisely is happening inside the engine and how much damage is it realistically doing? My Viper is my daily driver and I take it out for short trips to the gym or the supermarket or whatever all the time, how bad is this for the car? If I use top-quality synthetic oil and make sure I change my oil regularly does it really matter that I take it on frequent short trips?


The oil can get contaminated with water (condensation) since it doesn't get hot enough to burn/boil it off and be diluted with gas since the computer runs the engine richer until it warms up. It can also cause the exhaust system to fail sooner since it will not dry out all the way and you might have water sitting in low spots.

I figured there were other things going on so I Googled it and found this
http://articles.latimes.com/1993-12-24/news/vw-5171_1_short-trips


----------



## thetopdog (Nov 11, 2008)

adrew said:


> The oil can get contaminated with water (condensation) since it doesn't get hot enough to burn/boil it off and be diluted with gas since the computer runs the engine richer until it warms up. It can also cause the exhaust system to fail sooner since it will not dry out all the way and you might have water sitting in low spots.
> 
> I figured there were other things going on so I Googled it and found this
> http://articles.latimes.com/1993-12-24/news/vw-5171_1_short-trips


Thanks :thumbup:


----------



## Gefallene der drachen (Jun 22, 2015)

adrew said:


> The oil can get contaminated with water (condensation) since it doesn't get hot enough to burn/boil it off and be diluted with gas since the computer runs the engine richer until it warms up. It can also cause the exhaust system to fail sooner since it will not dry out all the way and you might have water sitting in low spots.
> 
> I figured there were other things going on so I Googled it and found this
> http://articles.latimes.com/1993-12-24/news/vw-5171_1_short-trips


Water contamination is an issue in and of itself, but when combined with sulfur from unburnt fuel, you get H[SUP]2[/SUP]0+20[SUP]2[/SUP]+S = H[SUP]2[/SUP]SO[SUP]4[/SUP], sulfuric acid

http://www.lubetrak.com/newsletter/May12HTML.html


----------



## Juicebox432 (Jul 18, 2013)

What the heck is a unicorn? I seen it used on video games, forums, and heard at car meets....but I can't nail down a good definition of what a unicorn is.

Is it just an ultra rare car?


----------



## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

Juicebox432 said:


> What the heck is a unicorn? I seen it used on video games, forums, and heard at car meets....but I can't nail down a good definition of what a unicorn is.
> 
> Is it just an ultra rare car?


That which is said to not exist. (Yes, ultra rare)


----------



## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

I have a battery question (on a motorcycle).

In August, I bought a bike. When I bought it, I rode it to try it out, but I didn't have my license, so I put it in store immediately and haven't touched it since. When I started it up in August, it started right up, without hesitation, didn't struggle and showed no signs of a weak battery.

Fast forward to today, and I'm at the garage where I store it. I drop some fuel stabilizer, fill the tank and get ready to start it (so that stabilized fuel makes its way into the carbs) and...nothing. Nada. Not a single hint of electric manifestation from the battery. I checked to see if I did something wrong or accidentally left a light these past months...nope.

So now it got me wondering. Was this battery on its way out? Was I a dumbass for not disconnecting it for the few months it was in storage? Does it absolutely need to be trickle charged if not in use for...say...over a month? Do you think it's possible to surge charge it at this point, or did I kill my battery?


----------



## The Igneous Faction (Dec 30, 2006)

worth_fixing said:


> I have a battery question (on a motorcycle).
> 
> In August, I bought a bike. When I bought it, I rode it to try it out, but I didn't have my license, so I put it in store immediately and haven't touched it since. When I started it up in August, it started right up, without hesitation, didn't struggle and showed no signs of a weak battery.
> 
> ...


It's been sitting for four months in (I'll assume) an unheated garage. It's not surprising that it can't run the motorcycle any more. I doubt it's dead, just charge it back up and go from there.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Autos are a mystery box for me. 

Is it bad to use it to decelerate, like a manual? Is it different for different automatics? 

ie, in my 2012 Golf 6 speed auto, I use tiptronic to go to 4th when at highway speeds and I need to decelerate, to avoid using the brakes unnecessarily. (5th is barely any better than locking it into 6th for deceleration) usually this means it revs at 3-4k, but I'm not forcing power at those revs, so is that ok?

How about in a 2005 Elantra I was driving the other day (4 speed auto no tiptronic function, but a "3" position on the shifter). Is that possibly different, though they are both conventional automatics?


----------



## XClayX (Apr 30, 2005)

Do you think we'll ever see a performance orientated CVT? Apparently they are sticking around for a while.  Maybe something with hard shifts, or atleast doesn't feel like its giving up on life.




Why don't they make a DSG/auto / Manual Stick gearbox? They have paddle shift, what about a clutchless manual. So basically you just have the stick shift that electronically shifts it to the gear designated for that spot like a manual. If you didn't care about rowing your own gears, just leave it in 1 and the car does its thing. Might be a good balance between an enthusiast car.


----------



## MBrown (Aug 1, 2000)

XClayX said:


> Do you think we'll ever see a performance orientated CVT? Apparently they are sticking around for a while.  Maybe something with hard shifts, or atleast doesn't feel like its giving up on life.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Isn't the autotragic in the WRX a CVT?

Curious about your second paragraph. Isn't that pretty much the way a DCT works? In my other car, you can use it in fully automatic mode, or you can use the paddles or lever to command a shift, but the car keeps you from doing anything stoopid (over-revving or lugging). If you're in manual mode and slow down, it'll downshift (and rev-match!). But I don't think it'll upshift if you're accelerating -- it'll just sit at redline, roaring.


----------



## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

Does Ford really mean: Fix Or Repair Daily? 



....or not?


----------



## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

MBrown said:


> Isn't the autotragic in the WRX a CVT?
> 
> Curious about your second paragraph. Isn't that pretty much the way a DCT works? In my other car, you can use it in fully automatic mode, or you can use the paddles or lever to command a shift, but the car keeps you from doing anything stoopid (over-revving or lugging). If you're in manual mode and slow down, it'll downshift (and rev-match!). But I don't think it'll upshift if you're accelerating -- it'll just sit at redline, roaring.


I thought that the CVT in the WRX is universally panned. They could implement a CVT that, when accelerating, gets to and stays at peak torque RPM. Regular people don't like the way the engine sounds like a motorboat, so the manufacturers simulate shifts in the CVT, which makes it less efficient and less power-optimal.

As with your second paragraph, I think the guy is looking for an H-pattern shifter like a stick shift but without the clutch pedal.


----------



## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

82Turbo930 said:


> Does Ford really mean: Fix Or Repair Daily?
> 
> 
> 
> ....or not?


No.

postCount++;


----------



## Wolfslash16 (Aug 1, 2014)

82Turbo930 said:


> Does Ford really mean: Fix Or Repair Daily?
> 
> 
> 
> ....or not?


No, it means:

Found
On
Road
Dead

:laugh:


----------



## XClayX (Apr 30, 2005)

^^ Basically yes.

IMO if your going to have an automatic, make an H pattern shifter so you can atleast pretend to row gears. Or get a proper manual. I think it might be a better driving experience then a paddle shift setup.


----------



## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

XClayX said:


> ^^ Basically yes.
> 
> IMO if your going to have an automatic, make an H pattern shifter so you can atleast pretend to row gears. Or get a proper manual. I think it might be a better driving experience then a paddle shift setup.


Doing what you suggest is achievable. I just don't think it will solve any problems and it'll make confusion on top of that. 

A electrically shifted H-pattern won't really feel 'good' to the people looking to shift for themselves. So they may not use it much. Kinda like the push/pull shifters that are in automatic cars now.

On top of that, the shifter/transmission you suggest would have to deal with people wanting to skip gears up or down, or wanting to downshifting into an overrev gear. The transmission would prevent that, obviously, but how? Just not do the shift even though the shift leveR moved? physically block the shift lever? That adds complication and more ways to fail.


----------



## XClayX (Apr 30, 2005)

Fine you talked me into it. Sequential shifters for everyone.


----------



## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

XClayX said:


> Fine you talked me into it. Sequential shifters for everyone.


----------



## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

Any dangers about charging a lead acid car battery indoors?

How about a totally sealed motorcycle battery?

I want to trickle charge my motorcycle battery, but I don't have access to a garage. Is it safe to charge it in my apartment? I read that charging a lead-acid battery can let off hydrogen gas, which is highly flammable (so don't charge near a heat source), but are there any real harmful gases that can be produced? Any real risk of explosion?


----------



## thetopdog (Nov 11, 2008)

Smigelski said:


> I thought that the CVT in the WRX is universally panned. They could implement a CVT that, when accelerating, gets to and stays at peak torque RPM. Regular people don't like the way the engine sounds like a motorboat, so the manufacturers simulate shifts in the CVT, which makes it less efficient and less power-optimal.
> 
> As with your second paragraph, I think the guy is looking for an H-pattern shifter like a stick shift but without the clutch pedal.


This might be a crazy idea but I've always wondered if it would be possible to make a CVT controlled by one of those levers they use to control the throttle on boats. So you could use the lever to change the ratio of the CVT to whatever you wanted at anytime. I'm sure there are 100 reasons why it would be extremely difficult or impossible to engineer something like that but I think it would be really cool to be able to vary the gear ratio to whatever I wanted and have such finely-tuned control over it


----------



## NeverEnoughCars (Aug 2, 2013)

82Turbo930 said:


> Does Ford really mean: Fix Or Repair Daily?
> 
> 
> 
> ....or not?





Wolfslash16 said:


> No, it means:
> 
> Found
> On
> ...


No, both wrong.

First
On
Race
Day


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Speaking of CVTs, are there any manufacturers who DON'T use faux-gearing, or are there aftermarket options available to reprogram a CVT to be totally as efficient as possible? Meaning, the trans is always at the right ratio to deliver maximum fuel efficiency, no matter how boring it sounds? Maybe the hypermilers have broken through in this area?


----------



## MBrown (Aug 1, 2000)

*Torque vectoring vs. torque sensing*

New question:

What's the difference between a torque-_vectoring _differential and a torque-_sensing_ one?

From what I understand, the diff in my M5 is torque-vectoring, actively applying torque to the outside rear wheel to nudge the car around corners. (Awesome on tight entrance ramps!)

My GTI has the Performance Package, so it has the VAQ electronically-controlled limited slip diff. Behind the wheel, it's a huge improvement over any other FWD car I've driven. No torque-steer (even when at full acceleration over a bump where the suspension is unweighted) and this thing dives into curved entrance ramps with a vengeance. But I remember reading/hearing somewhere (maybe on the BorgWarner web site?) that it's *not* a torque-vectoring diff.

I *thought* the VAQ applied asymetric torque to balance out driving forces, so I don't understand why that isn't considered torque-vectoring.

Enlighten me!!


----------



## Techun (Dec 27, 2006)

Smigelski said:


> I thought that the CVT in the WRX is universally panned. They could implement a CVT that, when accelerating, gets to and stays at peak torque RPM. Regular people don't like the way the engine sounds like a motorboat, so the manufacturers simulate shifts in the CVT, which makes it less efficient and less power-optimal.
> 
> As with your second paragraph, I think the guy is looking for an H-pattern shifter like a stick shift but without the clutch pedal.


You meant peak power rpm


----------



## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

Nothing about my indoor battery charging?


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

VDub2625 said:


> Speaking of CVTs, are there any manufacturers who DON'T use faux-gearing, or are there aftermarket options available to reprogram a CVT to be totally as efficient as possible


Subaru's base CVT doesn't use any faux gearing. It has a "L" setting that just seeks a higher rev to give you some engine braking which can be used at any speed.

In most normal cruising situations, it does choose the most efficient rev (read: as low as possible) to get the best fuel economy.
Where it falls down, is that it chooses significantly higher than necessary revs for moderate acceleration or grade climbing.

The engine has more than enough torque to soldier along at 2500 rpms up 10% grades at 70mph, but it insists on doing it at 4,000 rpm.


----------



## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

With the new year approaching, question about remaining 2015 models. 

Can a dealer sell a new 2015 model in 2016?


----------



## Pickleheadguy (Nov 10, 2013)

71DubBugBug said:


> With the new year approaching, question about remaining 2015 models.
> 
> Can a dealer sell a new 2015 model in 2016?


Yes. As long as someone has not owned the car, it can be considered new. There was a thread a few months back about a dealer selling a 2012 model as "new." Normally dealers try to push out the older new models with great rebates or deals to prevent this from happening. Many commercials this month say "$XXXX dollars off remaining models in stock the longest."


----------



## 93JC (Jul 24, 2008)

VDub2625 said:


> Autos are a mystery box for me.
> 
> Is it bad to use it to decelerate, like a manual? Is it different for different automatics?
> 
> ...


"Bad", no, but completely unnecessary. There is no difference between using the sequential manual mode of an automatic transmission and the more old-fashioned '3' position: it does essentially the same thing, which is to say it forces a downshift. Generally the automaker has designed the control logic of the transmission to ignore your input if the downshift you are attempting will cause significant damage, e.g. if you're going 100 mph and try downshifting to 1st it'll just ignore you and stay in whatever gear you were in. (Generally they do the same thing if you shift into reverse at speed too.)

But like I said, this is completely unnecessary. Your car has brakes. They're designed to slow the car down. You might as well use 'em, that's what they're there for.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

93JC said:


> "Bad", no, but completely unnecessary. There is no difference between using the sequential manual mode of an automatic transmission and the more old-fashioned '3' position: it does essentially the same thing, which is to say it forces a downshift. Generally the automaker has designed the control logic of the transmission to ignore your input if the downshift you are attempting will cause significant damage, e.g. if you're going 100 mph and try downshifting to 1st it'll just ignore you and stay in whatever gear you were in. (Generally they do the same thing if you shift into reverse at speed too.)
> 
> But like I said, this is completely unnecessary. Your car has brakes. They're designed to slow the car down. You might as well use 'em, that's what they're there for.



I know the sequential and the "321" or whatever shifter positions achieve the same effect. I was just wondering if that is harmful to the transmission in any way, since usually on decel the automatic goes into what is basically neutral. 

I think the manual guys would have a bit of an issue with that last statement... lol. I like to save (a little) gas and brake wear by using engine deceleration like I would do in a manual. Just didn't know if that would hurt it.


----------



## WilboBaggins (Mar 16, 2012)

NeverEnoughCars said:


> No, both wrong.
> 
> First
> On
> ...


All three are wrong:

F*cker
Only
Rolls
Downhill

:laugh:


----------



## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

thetopdog said:


> This might be a crazy idea but I've always wondered if it would be possible to make a CVT controlled by one of those levers they use to control the throttle on boats. So you could use the lever to change the ratio of the CVT to whatever you wanted at anytime. I'm sure there are 100 reasons why it would be extremely difficult or impossible to engineer something like that but I think it would be really cool to be able to vary the gear ratio to whatever I wanted and have such finely-tuned control over it


I've considered the same myself. I think it would be difficult to make this work with any sort of longevity, as it would be easy to manually dump it from low to high "gear" at full throttle, and that would put a lot of strain on the trans.


----------



## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

VDub2625 said:


> Speaking of CVTs, are there any manufacturers who DON'T use faux-gearing, or are there aftermarket options available to reprogram a CVT to be totally as efficient as possible? Meaning, the trans is always at the right ratio to deliver maximum fuel efficiency, no matter how boring it sounds? Maybe the hypermilers have broken through in this area?


The Mirage is super easy to control with your foot. It is definitely tuned for economy and is always right on the cusp of lugging the engine if you are just puttering around town. But it is responsive and will definitely get the revs up if you punch it. 

It doesn't have fake gears but it does have a little bit of ... something ... programmed in where, if you floor it from a stop, the revs will go to 5500 or so, then gradually rise to 6000-6200 by the time you hit 55-60 MPH (redline is 6500). So the only time you get any steady RPM droning is if you keep it floored past 60 or do a high RPM pass, like on a two-lane road. It is much more pleasant than the old Sentra CVTs which just shoot up to the redline at the slightest provocation of the throttle without much oomph.

In normal in-town driving the revs rarely go over 3500 and you just don't really notice the transmission except when the aux gearbox shifts to high once you release the accelerator slightly and the revs drop by 500 or so (it has a 2-speed hi/lo unit in addition to the CVT for a wider overall ratio spread). The aux transmission also makes full throttle kickdowns/passes more satisfying since it will shift to low range and you will get a nice forward lunge sensation instead of not much of anything like in the old Sentras. Thanks to all the mechanical advantage it has much better passing performance than you would expect from 74 horsepower. 

It does have a "B" (braking) gate on the shifter which keeps the ratios low/revs high (like a low gear) used for starting off on a steep hill or coming down the other side (brings up the revs for more engine braking).

It is not that fun to drive but it is very efficient and interesting/satisfying to drive if that makes sense.


----------



## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

ok, soo say you have two identical cars, except for:


One has a 5,000 cubic inch iron sleeved aluminum alloy steam powered long stroke hemi that makes 12 horse power but 9,061 ft lbs of torque @ 3 rpm. 

The other car has a 3 liter cast iron v12 short stroke twin turbo engine that makes 12,0000 horsepower and 9.061 ft lbs of torque at 30,000 rpm. 

Oddly enough, both engines and cars weigh the exact same and running the same tranny / gear ratios.

Which car would be quicker in the 1/4 mile?


----------



## fR3ZNO (May 5, 2014)

I'm too lazy to do the calculation right now, but torque is work produced and horsepower is the rate that work is done.


----------



## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

82Turbo930 said:


> ok, soo say you have two identical cars, except for:
> 
> 
> One has a 5,000 cubic inch iron sleeved aluminum alloy steam powered long stroke hemi that makes 12 horse power but 9,061 ft lbs of torque @ 3 rpm.
> ...


The one that can perform the most amount of work, or watts, or horsepower. The rest is in gearing.

Power is what gets the work done. Torque * rpm = power.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

worth_fixing said:


> Torque * rpm = power.


Which is why, through the magic of maths, Torque and HP should be equal at 5250rpm. 

(I think that's the right number anyway!)


----------



## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

worth_fixing said:


> The one that can perform the most amount of work, or watts, or horsepower. The rest is in gearing.
> 
> Power is what gets the work done. Torque * rpm = power.



ok, sooo

9,061 ft lbs x 3 rpm = 27,183 horsepower and

9.061 ft. lbs x 30,000 rpm = 271,830 horsepower  

Is that right? 

My original calculations were slightly off. 



see, steam power is sooo yesterday


----------



## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

VDub2625 said:


> Speaking of CVTs, are there any manufacturers who DON'T use faux-gearing, or are there aftermarket options available to reprogram a CVT to be totally as efficient as possible? Meaning, the trans is always at the right ratio to deliver maximum fuel efficiency, no matter how boring it sounds? Maybe the hypermilers have broken through in this area?


Nissan. 

No fake gear ratios. Pure CVT. I love it. And you can still get it to jump; plant your foot hard, and feel the sucker jump, keep your foot planted, and the RPM will never decrease, you'll sit right at the top of the RPM range as long as the system allows, or as long as drag allows.

if you want performance out of the CVT, you just have to learn to drive a little differently than with a standard auto or manual.


----------



## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

IJM said:


> I've considered the same myself. I think it would be difficult to make this work with any sort of longevity, as it would be easy to manually dump it from low to high "gear" at full throttle, and that would put a lot of strain on the trans.


you would do a foot pedal. right where the clutch would go. right now the ECU programming uses pedal input to determine CVT ratio and throttle opening, you would just need to split that signal to 2 independent inputs. Getting the ECU to not recognize that as a fault would be trickier.


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## .andreas (Dec 12, 2010)

Switching to winter tires, regular tire size is 195/65-15. Can I switch to 185/55-15? Could get 4 hakkapeliittas for 120 bucks.


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## 0dd_j0b (Sep 22, 2007)

.andreas said:


> Switching to winter tires, regular tire size is 195/65-15. Can I switch to 185/55-15? Could get 4 hakkapeliittas for 120 bucks.


Yes. The latter is slightly narrower, and slightly shorter tire wall, but that's is the only difference in size you listed.


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

.andreas said:


> Switching to winter tires, regular tire size is 195/65-15. Can I switch to 185/55-15? Could get 4 hakkapeliittas for 120 bucks.





0dd_j0b said:


> Yes. The latter is slightly narrower, and slightly shorter tire wall, but that's is the only difference in size you listed.


 Your math is backwards, sir. 
Rule of thumb is "5 points of sidewall per 10mm width difference," yes. But.... Narrower tire = need _taller_ sidewall. a 185/55-15 would be downright puny compared to a 195/65-15. 
a 185/70-15 would be roughly the same diameter as a 195/65-15. 

Quick math: 
195/65R15 = ~19.90" diameter. 
185/55R15 = *~15.13"* diameter. 
195/70R15 = ~20.10" diameter.


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## Techun (Dec 27, 2006)

cuppie said:


> Your math is backwards, sir.
> Rule of thumb is "5 points of sidewall per 10mm width difference," yes. But.... Narrower tire = need _taller_ sidewall. a 185/55-15 would be downright puny compared to a 195/65-15.
> a 185/70-15 would be roughly the same diameter as a 195/65-15.
> 
> ...


So the tire sidewall is only 0.065" tall?


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## Quentin (Apr 17, 2006)

rstolz said:


> It's not terribly efficient to be shifting mid-corner.


Or smart. A great way to disrupt the car and swap ends. 


Sent from Tandy 400


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## 0dd_j0b (Sep 22, 2007)

Edit: double post for some reason.


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## 0dd_j0b (Sep 22, 2007)

cuppie said:


> Your math is backwards, sir.
> Rule of thumb is "5 points of sidewall per 10mm width difference," yes. But.... Narrower tire = need _taller_ sidewall. a 185/55-15 would be downright puny compared to a 195/65-15.
> a 185/70-15 would be roughly the same diameter as a 195/65-15.
> 
> ...


I thought it was percentage of total width. 185mm wide, 55% of total width = side wall height. 15" tire.


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## .andreas (Dec 12, 2010)

cuppie said:


> Your math is backwards, sir.
> Rule of thumb is "5 points of sidewall per 10mm width difference," yes. But.... Narrower tire = need _taller_ sidewall. a 185/55-15 would be downright puny compared to a 195/65-15.
> a 185/70-15 would be roughly the same diameter as a 195/65-15.
> 
> ...


Wouldn't it be around 18" diameter?


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

82Turbo930 said:


> ok, sooo
> 
> 9,061 ft lbs x 3 rpm = 27,183 horsepower and
> 
> ...


1/4 mile is pretty short so the guy making 27,183 hp @ 3rpm would be across the finish line with bald tires before the other guy knew what was going on. Standing mile might be a little more interesting...


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## .andreas (Dec 12, 2010)

.andreas said:


> Switching to winter tires, regular tire size is 195/65-15. Can I switch to 185/55-15? Could get 4 hakkapeliittas for 120 bucks.


Any more insight? I'm going pick them up today bur I'd like to know if this is a terrible idea.


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## Quentin (Apr 17, 2006)

.andreas said:


> Any more insight? I'm going pick them up today bur I'd like to know if this is a terrible idea.


Your overall diameter will change by 8%. That means your speedo will read 8% high, your gearing is 8% shorter. Shorter gearing = more revs for the same speed. May hurt your gas mileage a little bit. Ground clearance will decrease by almost an inch. I wouldn't do it because ground clearance is not what you want to give up in the snow. 

(For reference: original tire diameter was 25". That other tire has a 23" diameter.)

Sent from Tandy 400


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## Aonarch (Dec 4, 2006)

cuppie said:


> Your math is backwards, sir.
> Rule of thumb is "5 points of sidewall per 10mm width difference," yes. But.... Narrower tire = need _taller_ sidewall. a 185/55-15 would be downright puny compared to a 195/65-15.
> a 185/70-15 would be roughly the same diameter as a 195/65-15.
> 
> ...


Fixed for you.

From a guy in the high end wheel biz.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Aonarch said:


> Fixed for you.
> 
> From a guy in the high end wheel biz.


Isn't it more about load rating than anything else. A simple gearing change can fix the speedo issue.


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

.andreas said:


> Any more insight? I'm going pick them up today bur I'd like to know if this is a terrible idea.


At a loss of that much ground clearance, it does not seem worth it. But hey, the right price is the right price.


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

Aonarch said:


> Fixed for you.
> 
> From a guy in the high end wheel biz.


  
Forgot to "*2" the sidewall height when I ran the math. :laugh:
(section_width * aspect_ratio **2* / 25.4) + wheel_diameter = tire diameter. I forgot the bolded part. You can thank "posting with toddler climbing on me" for that. :laugh: 

Still, the 'for sale' tires in question are way, way smaller than the stock tires.


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## .andreas (Dec 12, 2010)

Elite_Deforce said:


> At a loss of that much ground clearance, it does not seem worth it. But hey, *the right price is the right price.*


I had to snag them on this principal. 

I'm figuring that the inch of clearance is a sacrifice I can make if I just avoid driving in storms where we have 3/4 inches sitting on the road, they're a rarity so I'm not so concerned. Thanks for the help everybody, I appreciate it a bunch.


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

.andreas said:


> I had to snag them on this principal.
> 
> I'm figuring that the inch of clearance is a sacrifice I can make if I just avoid driving in storms where we have 3/4 inches sitting on the road, they're a rarity so I'm not so concerned. Thanks for the help everybody, I appreciate it a bunch.


Accords don't have oodles of ground clearance to begin with. It will be tough in any sort of significant snow fall.


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## Harpoon (Jan 5, 2008)

Elite_Deforce said:


> Accords don't have oodles of ground clearance to begin with. It will be tough in any sort of significant snow fall.


He'll be just fine.


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

Harpoon said:


> He'll be just fine.


He will be at the whim of his city's snow removal.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

And if a tire blows, no spare... that would hurt the diff, having that much sidewall difference, wouldn't it?

Winter tires seem to be fairly cheap anyway.


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## Quentin (Apr 17, 2006)

VDub2625 said:


> And if a tire blows, no spare... that would hurt the diff, having that much sidewall difference, wouldn't it?
> 
> Winter tires seem to be fairly cheap anyway.


Shouldn't be a problem with an open diff. He could always move the spare to the rear (I'm assuming he has an Accord as mentioned above). 


Sent from Tandy 400


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## 03gli401k (Jul 8, 2006)

where can I buy some blinker fluid


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

03gli401k said:


> where can I buy some blinker fluid


 Here you go.


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## J2G (Aug 9, 2012)

If I buy an aftermarket exhaust manifold for my car with the same diameter exhaust ports, but a larger diameter collector, would I notice any change in performance? Increase or decrease.


The large diameter catback welded to the smaller diameter cat gives me eye twitches every time I'm under there.


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## .MiCh. (Oct 18, 2007)

Why do we even buy street tires with a speed rating above T or H?


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

Is there any 'wear and tear' at all when you sit at a red light holding the clutch pedal down rather than sit there in neutral ??

Seams to me its safer to be in gear but someone told me otherwise and I think he is full of ish...


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## 330R (Apr 22, 2005)

skydive_007 said:


> Is there any 'wear and tear' at all when you sit at a red light holding the clutch pedal down rather than sit there in neutral ??
> 
> Seams to me its safer to be in gear but someone told me otherwise and I think he is full of ish...


Yes, it puts added wear on the clutch master cylinder (can begin to seep fluid from the seal) and input shaft bearing (can hear whirring noise when clutch pedal is released, in neutral especially). I used to sit at a light with the clutch disengaged and the gearbox in first, because I was taught to be ready to move forward immediately, but yeah, it's added wear. I had the two issues I described. Now I always shift into neutral and clutch out.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

.MiCh. said:


> Why do we even buy street tires with a speed rating above T or H?


It's not so much the speed rating as the stiffness of the tire which contributes to better overall handling. Tires with higher speed ratings have thicker, stiffer sidewalls, better steering response and typically a softer compound and more aggressive tread pattern which combine to provide more grip. 

If your car has sporting pretensions, a stiff-ish suspension and specifies a V- or higher-rated tire and you put a jello sidewall H- or S-rated tire on it, the handling will be compromised since the suspension is calibrated for quick reflexes. I had a Civic Si years ago that spec'd V-rated tires; I was sport of broke when I needed replacements so I got some cheap H-rated Falkens and the car felt like a Buick Century. I could saw the wheel back and forth at 70 MPH and it would just go straight, and with quick steering inputs it would take the rear end about 1/2 a second to catch up to whatever the front was doing. It was all over the place on the highway and tiring/disconcerting to drive.

Next time you are at a tire shop, grab the sidewall of a normal tire and bend it over to the side, then go find something like a Pilot Sport and (try) to do the same thing. That's the difference in your steering response.


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

330R said:


> Yes, it puts added wear on the clutch master cylinder (can begin to seep fluid from the seal) and input shaft bearing (can hear whirring noise when clutch pedal is released, in neutral especially). I used to sit at a light with the clutch disengaged and the gearbox in first, because I was taught to be ready to move forward immediately, but yeah, it's added wear. I had the two issues I described. Now I always shift into neutral and clutch out.


I do the same thing in my car (shift to neutral), but I am in gear 100% of the time that I'm on my motorcycle ...


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I suppose it's depends on the design, but I grew up on Mk2s so I was used to those throwout bearings that can wear quickly, and taught to put it in neutral when not needing the engine for a period of time. newer cars have beefier bearings, but why run the risk? My foot getting tired is a more important reason anyway


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

What is happening when I shift too *slow*?

Context:

Moving a ~2 km/h, so too slow for 2nd gear. 2nd - Neutral - Unclutch - Clutch - 1st

Except as I'm entering first gate, I suppose I'm shifting too slow and I feel a clunky grind. What's happening? And am I damaging something?

Keep in mind, it's taking me less than half a second to inset the lever into 1st, but still probably slow by most standards, as I want to be easy on cold synchromesh. What am I doing wrong?


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## NeverEnoughCars (Aug 2, 2013)

.MiCh. said:


> Why do we even buy street tires with a speed rating above T or H?


T is only rated to 118mph which is only 33mph over the "limit" on my morning commute some days. I have seen ~those speeds~ and would like my tires to be rated at bit higher.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

Nothing on my low-speed 1st gear grind?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

worth_fixing said:


> Nothing on my low-speed 1st gear grind?


Between the hours of 9:30pm and 7:45am on a Monday night, no. Sorry.


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## DubNMiatafan (Feb 13, 2009)

worth_fixing said:


> What is happening when I shift too *slow*?
> 
> Context:
> 
> ...


Either your syncromesh on first is bad if you're double clutch rev matching properly, or you're not double clutch rev matching properly. You need to get the input shaft and the engine speed spinning at the same rate so the synchronizer doesn't do the work. If you're doing it properly and you still get a grind/clunk, your synchro is bad. Keep in mind it's pretty difficult to get an exact rev match when trying to go into first.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

DubNMiatafan said:


> Either your syncromesh on first is bad if you're double clutch rev matching properly, or you're not double clutch rev matching properly. You need to get the input shaft and the engine speed spinning at the same rate so the synchronizer doesn't do the work. If you're doing it properly and you still get a grind/clunk, your synchro is bad. Keep in mind it's pretty difficult to get an exact rev match when trying to go into first.


Even if I don't rev match while engaging the level into 1st, the synchromesh should be doing the job, right?

And this is walking speed vs idle engine speed. There should be (nearly) zero rev matching required, even if my synchros were bad.

...and it's a 2014 with 35,500 easy km on it. Bad from factory? It doesn't happen all the time; maybe 1 out of 10-15 times.


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

J2G said:


> If I buy an aftermarket exhaust manifold for my car with the same diameter exhaust ports, but a larger diameter collector, would I notice any change in performance? Increase or decrease.
> 
> 
> The large diameter catback welded to the smaller diameter cat gives me eye twitches every time I'm under there.


small diameter increases low end performance by promoting better exhaust gas velocity, and therefore vacuum away from the ports. At high RPM/engine loads, a small diameter pipe becomes a restriction, and starts robbing power. Also consider that gases cool as they travel through the exhaust, as they cool, they condense. Length of the collector also plays a role, by impacting how smoothly the gases come together into a single pipe. So to your question specifically, most likely you'll see a small decrease at low RPM, and a small increase at higher RPM. If you hit the sweet spot, you can get your exhaust tuned so you see an increase across the board. From stock it's pretty easy, they're all choked tdown to make the car quieter, so you just make as much of it bigger as is possible. If you're trying to further tune a tuned exhaust, it gets trickier, because making it bigger starts to negatively impact low RPM performance.



skydive_007 said:


> Is there any 'wear and tear' at all when you sit at a red light holding the clutch pedal down rather than sit there in neutral ??
> 
> Seams to me its safer to be in gear but someone told me otherwise and I think he is full of ish...


It was noted. The wear and tear is done to the master/slave clutch cylinders, pressure plate springs, and throwout (pilot) bearing. Enough to worry about? maybe, but it's usually not dire. "Safer" is a matter of perspective.



worth_fixing said:


> What is happening when I shift too *slow*?
> 
> Context:
> 
> ...





worth_fixing said:


> Even if I don't rev match while engaging the level into 1st, the synchromesh should be doing the job, right?
> 
> And this is walking speed vs idle engine speed. There should be (nearly) zero rev matching required, even if my synchros were bad.
> 
> ...and it's a 2014 with 35,500 easy km on it. Bad from factory? It doesn't happen all the time; maybe 1 out of 10-15 times.


The need to doubleclutch rev match is tossed around too much around here. 99.9% of the time it's completely unnecessary, 0.1% of the time it's not required. People will quote specific roads where it's "necessary" to keep the car in power, which is part of the 0.1%. You CAN do it, but you still don't NEED to. The speed differential between the input shaft and 1st gear is extreme. Any more these days 1st is really just a starting gear. My first piece of advice tis to stay in 2nd, you might be surprised how slow you can go in 2nd. If you really do have to shift into first, take it from 2, to neutral, try 1st, if it doesn't go in, bring it back into 2nd then back down again into 1. That whole procedure takes no more than a second or 2. All while keeping your foot on the clutch. the 1-2 syncro hub are part of the same assembly, and bringing into 2nd before dropping down to 1 can help get everything lined up to slide in nicer.

a clunky 1st isn't a good sign of a damaged syncro. Most times that ends up being a bad diagnosis. If you need it "because racecar" you can crack the case and shave teeth off of the syncro ring to help it deal with transition between large speed differentials. but you will shorten the life of the syncro by doing so.


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## MCTB (Dec 30, 2005)

If I have a car with an ABS fault, like if it has been defeated completely and the bulb on the dash removed so there is not outward indication of it, would an OBD2 scan during, say, an inspection, register the ABS fault? All around the country, people are doing solid axle swaps in the front and since they are using axles that did not originally come with the truck, the ABS system no longer works. I have always wondered if the fault shows up during and OBD scan or not.


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## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

Is it worth completely smoking/modulating the clutch while launching your car in order to eliminate wheelspin/ yet maintain higher rpm to arrive at a better 1/4 mile time, or should you engage the clutch asap and take your chances of bogging or spinning too much... and getting a crappy ET?


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

82Turbo930 said:


> Is it worth completely smoking/modulating the clutch while launching your car in order to eliminate wheelspin/ yet maintain higher rpm to arrive at a better 1/4 mile time, or should you engage the clutch asap and take your chances of bogging or spinning too much... and getting a crappy ET?


Why wouldn't you modulate the gas to control wheelspin? Serious question, as I've never heard of modulating the clutch for that.

Sounds like something you only do a handful of times before you turn your clutch to glass.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

MCTB said:


> If I have a car with an ABS fault, like if it has been defeated completely and the bulb on the dash removed so there is not outward indication of it, would an OBD2 scan during, say, an inspection, register the ABS fault? All around the country, people are doing solid axle swaps in the front and since they are using axles that did not originally come with the truck, the ABS system no longer works. I have always wondered if the fault shows up during and OBD scan or not.


Non-safety items (airbag and certain CELs) I believe are the only things that should fail you, but local laws may vary.


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## willisan (Jan 24, 2012)

If and when you accidentally hit the damned voice command button, is there a way to cut her response off early? It literally takes her an hour to shutup.


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## 0dd_j0b (Sep 22, 2007)

willisan said:


> If and when you accidentally hit the damned voice command button, is there a way to cut her response off early? It literally takes her an hour to shutup.


Probably depends on the vehicle, but on my Subaru if I accidentally hit it, I can press the 'hang up' button and it shuts it up.


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## willisan (Jan 24, 2012)

0dd_j0b said:


> Probably depends on the vehicle, but on my Subaru if I accidentally hit it, I can press the 'hang up' button and it shuts it up.


Yeah..just tried and if you hit it again right away it turns off.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

willisan said:


> If and when you accidentally hit the damned voice command button, is there a way to cut her response off early? It literally takes her an hour to shutup.


I think if you press and hold the activate button, it should cancel it. I don't have the problem of accidentally hitting the button, my lowly Golf doesn't have steering controls  (I have to use the roof console buttons instead)


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## DubNMiatafan (Feb 13, 2009)

Say for example, you have a non-interference, cam belt driven DOHC engine. For simplicity, let's use the Miata motor as an example. 

If one were to shave the head down for higher compression, could this lead to it becoming an interference engine? Also, would a shorter timing belt need to be used to make up for the slack since the head is shorter? 

I'm not really sure how head shaving works but someone posted a shaved Miata head for sale and it got me wondering.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

DubNMiatafan said:


> Say for example, you have a non-interference, cam belt driven DOHC engine. For simplicity, let's use the Miata motor as an example.
> 
> If one were to shave the head down for higher compression, could this lead to it becoming an interference engine? Also, would a shorter timing belt need to be used to make up for the slack since the head is shorter?
> 
> I'm not really sure how head shaving works but someone posted a shaved Miata head for sale and it got me wondering.



Great question. 

head shaving is typically around say 0.030" that usually won't be enough to change a non-interference to an interference, but you would need to check the spec sheets on that engine. Even if it did become an interference engine, that's only at full valve lift with the Pistons all the way up. The only time that could happen is when a timing belt breaks or setting the timing belt. 

Remember to leave the bottom end a 1/4 turn off TDC, set the cam gear(s) at TDC marks first, then bring #1 piston up to TDC. This is a common mistake, if you set the bottom end of a 4cyl engine at TDC first, you now have 2 Pistons all the way up. If the engine is an interference engine, and you put the head on it and rotate the cams through a few rotations, the valves will kiss the Pistons. It usually doesn't do anything, maybe leaves a little impression in the piston, but it could theoretically cause a bent valve. Now if a timing belt breaks, the camshaft will settle into a resting position that will leave no valve all the way open. It will leave a few valves about halfway open, that's just the spring pressure on the lobe pushing the lobe back down and being equalized by another valves spring with the lobe coming up. If you have ever turned a cam in a OHC head off the car and it literally "snaps" into the next resting position. Some engines could be interference with their valves like this, but the engine in question that wasn't then became interference because 0.030 to 0.060" was shaved off the head, should not pose any real risk if a timing belt did break. But that said there would still be some residual cam spinning before it settled into that resting spot. You could get unlucky, but you would be amazed at how fast valve spring pressure will stop a camshaft dead.

As for valve timing, yes it changes, but only very slightly. Depends on the engine and how much you shaved off, but could be between 0.5 and 2 degrees. The way the engine rotates is the straight side of a timing belt or chain, the tensioner goes on the back side. The amount of teeth on the belt didn't change, but the distance became less. No problem the tensioner easily picks this up. All it does it retard the cam timing that Little bit. Some people use adjustable cam gears and do this anyways since it's supposed to move the peak power up the rev scale a bit. With how little retard it really is, you probably won't notice a big change. But mixed with your new higher compression, the engine should noticeably feel as if it likes to rev more than it used to.


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## MBrown (Aug 1, 2000)

willisan said:


> If and when you accidentally hit the damned voice command button, is there a way to cut her response off early? It literally takes her an hour to shutup.


STFU doesn't work...but "Cancel" does.

And IIRC, there's a SETUP option that you can select to specify that you want short commands. (That may only be on my other car....)


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## MCTB (Dec 30, 2005)

VDub2625 said:


> Non-safety items (airbag and certain CELs) I believe are the only things that should fail you, but local laws may vary.


Non functioning ABS is a safety failure. They may not be able to tell though if it isn't showing up on visual and/ or OBD check. 

So, does an ABS fault show up on an OBD scan?


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## Mightion (Mar 19, 2008)

My '16 Golf has the driver assist package.

Is there any hidden menu setting that will allow it to recognize when the "obstacle" in question is a snowbank? Turning into my driveway in the winter can cause it to panic.


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## DubNMiatafan (Feb 13, 2009)

G60 Carat said:


> Great question.
> 
> head shaving is typically around say 0.030" that usually won't be enough to change a non-interference to an interference, but you would need to check the spec sheets on that engine. Even if it did become an interference engine, that's only at full valve lift with the Pistons all the way up. The only time that could happen is when a timing belt breaks or setting the timing belt.
> 
> ...


That is a comprehensive, well thought out answer. Thank you! :thumbup:


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

Cable vs Vacuum actuated HVAC. Difference manufacturers seem to choose one over another, in both auto and manual controls. Anyone know why or any (dis)advantages of either?
Just curious on a friday afternoon is all :beer:


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## nobbyv (May 18, 2001)

Every time I watch _Dream Cars_, there's always a shot of them doing a final test after building the car where they bring it into a simulated rainfall chamber to check for leaks. Doesn't this seem, I don't know, just a weird way to test? I guess it seems strange to me that after all the precision robotics, computer modeling, CMM checks, etc. that went into building the car, the best way they can test for this is to actually pelt it with water and see what happens.


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## Neezy13 (Jun 1, 2011)

nobbyv said:


> Every time I watch _Dream Cars_, there's always a shot of them doing a final test after building the car where they bring it into a simulated rainfall chamber to check for leaks. Doesn't this seem, I don't know, just a weird way to test? I guess it seems strange to me that after all the precision robotics, computer modeling, CMM checks, etc. that went into building the car, the best way they can test for this is to actually pelt it with water and see what happens.


This is pretty much how all cars are made. While everything is measured and checked, you still have the possibility of tolerance stack-up issues. Say you have two mating parts and one is built slightly to the high side of its tolerance for a size dimension and the mating part is built to the low side of its tolerance, each part is technically in spec, but you have a worst case mating situation which could be potential leak. For everyday mass produced cars, this is evaluated during the design prototype phase and then again with production intent parts and a lot of manufacturers will do periodic reviews.


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## AHTOXA (Dec 2, 2007)

I think he's saying that pelting it with water is a low-tech test approach to a high-tech way of building a car. If so, I'm not sure there's a better way to do that.


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## Neezy13 (Jun 1, 2011)

AHTOXA said:


> I think he's saying that pelting it with water is a low-tech test approach to a high-tech way of building a car. If so, I'm not sure there's a better way to do that.


It is kind of a low tech way, but I agree there probably isn't a better way. From my experience (I work for a windshield wiper system manufacturer) these tests are as controlled as possible with regards to flow rate. I know that our wiper systems are tested with world record rainfall flow rates as part of validation.


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## MBrown (Aug 1, 2000)

Seems like the high-tech design followed by real-world simulation is pretty standard. That's probably what keeps the Nürburgring operating. The manufacturers design and simulate everything, then take their prototypes out on the 'Ring.


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## nobbyv (May 18, 2001)

AHTOXA said:


> I think he's saying that pelting it with water is a low-tech test approach to a high-tech way of building a car. If so, I'm not sure there's a better way to do that.


Exactly. A guy crawling around the interior with a flashlight while there's a garden hose spraying the car seems decidedly low-tech. And you're right, there probably isn't a better way. 



MBrown said:


> Seems like the high-tech design followed by real-world simulation is pretty standard. That's probably what keeps the Nürburgring operating. The manufacturers design and simulate everything, then take their prototypes out on the 'Ring.


Not really what I'm saying. Validating a prototype is one thing. But as a production test, it still seems strange that this is the best they could come up with.


----------



## leitmotif (Oct 20, 2006)

Apparently the 2003 Sonata will start if the car is put into neutral (AT). Why would that be? And is the starter bad or is this something else? Possibly more major?


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

leitmotif said:


> Apparently the 2003 Sonata will start if the car is put into neutral (AT). Why would that be? And is the starter bad or is this something else? Possibly more major?


Bad neutral safety switch.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

leitmotif said:


> Apparently the 2003 Sonata will start if the car is put into neutral (AT). Why would that be? And is the starter bad or is this something else? Possibly more major?


My friend's 03 Elantra did the same thing. It would work for him sometimes in P if you jiggled the shifter while turning the key. I think it's just a position switch, and his car ran fine like that (well, eventually it toasted the hg, but that was for other reasons )


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## leitmotif (Oct 20, 2006)

saron81 said:


> Bad neutral safety switch.





VDub2625 said:


> My friend's 03 Elantra did the same thing. It would work for him sometimes in P if you jiggled the shifter while turning the key. I think it's just a position switch, and his car ran fine like that (well, eventually it toasted the hg, but that was for other reasons )


Interesting. I will look into that. Is it a PITA to fix?


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

leitmotif said:


> Interesting. I will look into that. Is it a PITA to fix?


Looks like it just bolts on top of the trans... but FYI... it appears there's a TSB on it that talks about adjusting it, so it may not even need replaced. (Hyundai calls it the trans. range sensor.) 
Sounds like it's a common problem.


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## leitmotif (Oct 20, 2006)

saron81 said:


> Looks like it just bolts on top of the trans... but FYI... it appears there's a TSB on it that talks about adjusting it, so it may not even need replaced. (Hyundai calls it the trans. range sensor.)
> Sounds like it's a common problem.


Thanks. Your google skills appear to be superior to mine, I'll attempt to locate these documents.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

worth_fixing said:


> What is happening when I shift too *slow*?
> 
> Context:
> 
> ...





worth_fixing said:


> Even if I don't rev match while engaging the level into 1st, the synchromesh should be doing the job, right?
> 
> And this is walking speed vs idle engine speed. There should be (nearly) zero rev matching required, even if my synchros were bad.
> 
> ...and it's a 2014 with 35,500 easy km on it. Bad from factory? It doesn't happen all the time; maybe 1 out of 10-15 times.


Ok, another question regarding this whole uncertainty with my synchromesh.

I've been taking it real easy on my transmission, especially lately, and even more so when it's cold.

So this morning, it's -2*C...no big deal, but I'm still cautious. Drive out of my parking space in 1st and get up to about 5-8 km/h.

I double-clutch, and try to insert it into 2nd.
It's not going in. So I keep a very slight constant pressure on second, thinking the synchros need some extra time to match speed differential (even if there's barely anything to match).
After maybe 1.5-2.0 second of rolling at 5-8 km/h and putting slight pressure on 2nd, it goes in with a *crunch*.

...what the f*ck. There has to be something I'm not understanding here. Are my synchros properly finished? On a gently driven 2014?


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

worth_fixing said:


> Ok, another question regarding this whole uncertainty with my synchromesh.
> 
> I've been taking it real easy on my transmission, especially lately, and even more so when it's cold.
> 
> ...


Maybe I'll rephrase that for the sake of a bump to the top of the thread list.

I've been takin' it real easy on my tranny, especially lately, and even more so when it's freezin'.

So this mornin', it's 28.4*F...no biggy small, but I'm still cautious. Drive out of my parkin' space in 1st and get up to 'bout 3.11-4.97 mph.

I double-clutch, and try to insert it into 2nd.
It ain't goin' in. So I keep a very slight constant pressure on second, thinkin' the synchros need some extra time to match speed differential (even if there ain't nothin' to match).
After maybe 1.5-2.0 seconds of rollin' at 3.11-4.97 mph and puttin' slight pressure on 2nd, it goes in with a *crunch*.

...what in god's good name. There's gotta be something I'm not gettin'. Are my synchros all messed up? On a gently driven 2014?


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## AHTOXA (Dec 2, 2007)

worth_fixing said:


> Maybe I'll rephrase that for the sake of a bump to the top of the thread list.
> 
> I've been takin' it real easy on my tranny, especially lately, and even more so when it's freezin'.
> 
> ...


Are you having issues with any other gears or does it only happen to 2nd? Do you have any issues once the trans warms up a bit after 5 miles of regular driving? 

If you're only having issues with second gear, it does sound like a weak syncro. It's not unusual to have a notchy shift into second on a cold morning but it shouldn't crunch into gear or take that long, especially on a new-ish car. 

How many miles? Do you still have warranty on the car that would cover this?


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

AHTOXA said:


> Are you having issues with any other gears or does it only happen to 2nd? Do you have any issues once the trans warms up a bit after 5 miles of regular driving?


Much less likely to happen after the trans warms up, but I still find myself getting inconsistent hesitation in pretty much any gear, mostly 4th & 5th, but 2nd and 3rd as well. 6th is never a problem. By inconsistent hesitation, I mean sometimes it goes in smooth like butter, and others I hit a wall, requiring me to return to neutral and trying the gate again. This has caused me to grind several times, as I'm not expecting it to not go in. This happens even when it's fully warm.



AHTOXA said:


> If you're only having issues with second gear, it does sound like a weak syncro. It's not unusual to have a notchy shift into second on a cold morning but it shouldn't crunch into gear or take that long, especially on a new-ish car.


I certainly don't think so, and it's the main area of disappointment with this car. I read so many reviews about compacts before buying it, and everyone was complementing for the shifting was "the way all cars should be" and like "a miata for the family". When I bought and drove mine, I started noticing this inconsistency when shifting and I've been quite disappointed with the trans. I've already had my shift linkages readjusted.



AHTOXA said:


> How many miles? Do you still have warranty on the car that would cover this?


Only 36,000 km, so yeah, warranty still covers. It seems like "the mechanics can't reproduce the issue", which I don't know if it's bullsh!t or if it actually doesn't happen with them...


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

My cars (new/old, high/low miles) have all had stubborn 2nd gears on when it's below freezing. Just rev 1st a little higher and skip to 3rd. Then, by the time you're out of the neighborhood it will probably snick right into 2nd.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

adrew said:


> My cars (new/old, high/low miles) have all had stubborn 2nd gears on when it's below freezing. Just rev 1st a little higher and skip to 3rd. Then, by the time you're out of the neighborhood it will probably snick right into 2nd.


Interesting...

I wonder what causes this stubbornness and if it can be fixed with "better quality synchromesh" or something.


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## AHTOXA (Dec 2, 2007)

Hitting a wall when shifting isn't normal, in my opinion. 

Perhaps try a different dealership. Have you tried asking them to keep it parked overnight and driving it when it's cold?


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

worth_fixing said:


> Interesting...
> 
> I wonder what causes this stubbornness and if it can be fixed with "better quality synchromesh" or something.


It's because the trans oil is cold and thick, then thins out a little as everything warms up. Some cars respond well to synthetic or aftermarket gear oil but I always just deal with it.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

worth_fixing said:


> Interesting...
> 
> I wonder what causes this stubbornness and if it can be fixed with "better quality synchromesh" or something.


It would be well worth the time and effort to try just a fluid change first.

I don't run Amsoil etc, in my engines, because I change the oil too much and this makes it cost prohibitive to me. For that reason I tend not to recommend it to others as well. (I just stick to the regular Synthetics, like Mobil 1, Castrol, Rotella, etc.)

But that said, I do highly recommend Redline 1st, then Amsoil for a manual trans gearbox or differentials. There is several different versions of Redline for manual gearboxes, find the one that suits your car/needs and go for it. You'll be glad you did, the syncromesh performance is improved (with it 2nd or 3rd gear "crunch" typically goes away), the heavy shifter weight when cold will be gone, and the shear strength is higher. As it's typically a service you'll only do once the whole time you own that car, it's easy to justify the price for the benefits. :thumbup:

http://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=7


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## HaterSlayer (Oct 19, 2007)

Seeing if I'm being an idiot here:

Last week I take my car to get an oil change, spark plug wires changed, and to get my blower motor done. When I got the car back I noticed the sticker for the oil change wasn't done. No big deal, I thought they forgot it. I was doing some stuff with the car a couple days later and thought to check and noticed the oil was brown. I took it back to the oil change shop saying they didn't change the oil. The guy said he did and he remembered changing it. I explained what happened and he said that it doesn't take much of a drive to get the oil brown. I personally didn't believe that. He said he'd change it again if I wanted to and I asked him to for my peace of mind. I personally didn't believe the oil color would change that drastically that fast. It wasn't sludge or anything, but it was brown. So am I in the wrong? I put maybe 20 miles on it when I checked the oil. Would that change the oil color that fast?


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## Omnilith (Jan 15, 2010)

HaterSlayer said:


> Seeing if I'm being an idiot here:
> 
> Last week I take my car to get an oil change, spark plug wires changed, and to get my blower motor done. When I got the car back I noticed the sticker for the oil change wasn't done. No big deal, I thought they forgot it. I was doing some stuff with the car a couple days later and thought to check and noticed the oil was brown. I took it back to the oil change shop saying they didn't change the oil. The guy said he did and he remembered changing it. I explained what happened and he said that it doesn't take much of a drive to get the oil brown. I personally didn't believe that. He said he'd change it again if I wanted to and I asked him to for my peace of mind. I personally didn't believe the oil color would change that drastically that fast. It wasn't sludge or anything, but it was brown. So am I in the wrong? I put maybe 20 miles on it when I checked the oil. Would that change the oil color that fast?


The obvious thing to do here is check it again after 20 miles on the new oil and see if it looks similar.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

I would document the oil's condition with a simple lab test. Your oil should not be "brown" that soon.

Could be an honest mistake, but I think it's up to you to prove it.


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## HaterSlayer (Oct 19, 2007)

barry2952 said:


> I would document the oil's condition with a simple lab test. Your oil should not be "brown" that soon.
> 
> Could be an honest mistake, but I think it's up to you to prove it.


That's what I think it is, just an honest mistake. They changed the oil so no big deal, but I'll check it tomorrow 

Sent from my LGMS330 using Tapatalk


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

It's not going to get darker in another 20 miles. The guy is pulling your pud. Your oil should still be clean. Take a drop of oil out a car with similar mileage after a change and you'll see oil you can see through. The only thing that contaminates oil are blow-by gasses that pass the rings. Put some sample of cars with known mileage on the oil on a piece of paper towel for comparison. Dirty oil will create a spot that radiates out clear.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I've always heard oil browns up real quick. You can't get every last drop of the old oil, sludge etc so it tints even clean oil quickly. I haven't tested that theory myself but it's what I've always heard...


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

VDub2625 said:


> I've always heard oil browns up real quick. You can't get every last drop of the old oil, sludge etc so it tints even clean oil quickly. I haven't tested that theory myself but it's what I've always heard...


The TDI oil gets dark (fairly) quick, but the VR6 oil will remain honey gold for a long time. Usually months, including some track time.


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## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

Should you ever bother to set your hydraulic valves? I have about 200K on my Acura and they've never been touched.  It still runs like a peach! I should probably read the maintenance schedule. :facepalm:


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## nobbyv (May 18, 2001)

barry2952 said:


> It's not going to get darker in another 20 miles. The guy is pulling your pud. Your oil should still be clean. Take a drop of oil out a car with similar mileage after a change and you'll see oil you can see through. The only thing that contaminates oil are blow-by gasses that pass the rings. Put some sample of cars with known mileage on the oil on a piece of paper towel for comparison. Dirty oil will create a spot that radiates out clear.


Yeah, I gotta disagree barry. Here's a quote from a "Oil Myths" article that Mobil 1 did a few years ago:



> Q13: If my motor oil turns black, does that mean it's time to change the oil?
> 
> Chinn: This is a myth we hear a lot. But the truth is the color of an oil has absolutely no bearing on its lubrication ability. Nor does it automatically signal that you need an immediate oil change.
> 
> ...


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## Omnilith (Jan 15, 2010)

I do have to agree that it shouldn't be brown in 20 miles... at least in my experience. I just changed my oil with 100 miles on it last weekend and it still looked light colored... other than the obvious goop from assembly lube.


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## nobbyv (May 18, 2001)

Omnilith said:


> I do have to agree that it shouldn't be brown in 20 miles... at least in my experience. I just changed my oil with 100 miles on it last weekend and it still looked light colored... other than the obvious goop from assembly lube.


I think the takeaway is that every engine is different. If the engine is particularly dirty, or a new oil type with high detergent levels are used, it may only take 20 miles. But black oil isn't necessarily an indication the work wasn't done.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Omnilith said:


> I do have to agree that it shouldn't be brown in 20 miles... at least in my experience. I just changed my oil with 100 miles on it last weekend and it still looked light colored... other than the obvious goop from *assembly lube*.


I take it this is a newly built engine, without gunk and carbon remnants already throughout the oil system?


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

worth_fixing said:


> Interesting...
> 
> I wonder what causes this stubbornness and if it can be fixed with "better quality synchromesh" or something.


It could be a shift linkage alignment issue too. Of course by applying prolonged pressure, you could very well be damaging internal parts as well. A brand new car can easily be out of alignment, or have tension set incorrectly due to a number of factors. Before spending $80 changing the oil, or $1000 tearing apart and rebuilding the trans, spend 45 minutes learning how to adjust the linkage.

I am not saying it's the linkage for certain, but it's a cheap and easy thing to check before moving on to more expensive solutions.

BONUS: if the syncro ring, the dogs, or the hub are chewed up, you'll see a nice brass colored glitter in the fluid when you drain it.


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## Omnilith (Jan 15, 2010)

VDub2625 said:


> I take it this is a newly built engine, without gunk and carbon remnants already throughout the oil system?


Just a head gasket and oil pan job... but yes, I did clean out the pan before reassembly. 

That said, all of my engines look new inside. A neglected engine might dirty the oil more quickly.


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## 88c900t (Jul 7, 2014)

Will it hurt my turbocharged car with my much shorter commute? It will _just_ get up to temperature as I pull into work.

And does it pay to put full coverage on an old (fun) car if it's only worth $3000-4000? I think full coverage is only 25% more than limited liability.


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## nobbyv (May 18, 2001)

88c900t said:


> And does it pay to put full coverage on an old (fun) car if it's only worth $3000-4000? I think full coverage is only 25% more than limited liability.


I have full coverage on my Ranger, and that thing is worth $1500 tops. I think it was an extra $6/month vs liability, so it just made sense to have it in case something happens.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

88c900t said:


> Will it hurt my turbocharged car with my much shorter commute? It will _just_ get up to temperature as I pull into work.
> 
> And does it pay to put full coverage on an old (fun) car if it's only worth $3000-4000? I think full coverage is only 25% more than limited liability.


I believe the cost of collision coverage is proportional to the value of the car.


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## 88c900t (Jul 7, 2014)

My 300ZX always had a spongy brake pedal since I had it. Aside from air in the system, what else could be wrong? No fluid leaks to speak of.


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

Tapered pads will give you a lot of pedal travel. How do they look? Also, pads with crappy bite will take more force to give you the same torque.


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## hotproperty (Nov 17, 2003)

not sure if its been covered already but what's the reason for not resurfacing German rotors?
I was doing some research but could not find any article. maybe I was typing the wrong words.

does anybody know why and some explanation please.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Why do you say German specifically? We don't do them at my dealership but I just figured that's because rotors are cheap.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

hotproperty said:


> not sure if its been covered already but what's the reason for not resurfacing German rotors?
> I was doing some research but could not find any article. maybe I was typing the wrong words.
> 
> does anybody know why and some explanation please.


Resurfacing a rotor resets the surface roughness and parallelism between inboard vs outboard plate, as well as back to the mounting surface. 

For lack of deep explanation, it makes the disk _straight_ and removes surface imperfections like grooves.


A reason to NOT resurface a rotor.
1) rotor has FNC coating.
2) The disk thickness is minimized by OEM design for service and can not accept removing material 
3) Disk features like indents, holes, slots normally should not be turned

The largest factor is #2... to my knowledge


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## The Igneous Faction (Dec 30, 2006)

88c900t said:


> My 300ZX always had a spongy brake pedal since I had it. Aside from air in the system, what else could be wrong? No fluid leaks to speak of.


When the caliper slide pins on my Volvo got stuck, they stuck with the caliper uncompressed so only the inner pad was getting pressed against the rotor. It felt like air in the lines and I definitely pushed a ton of fluid through the system with my power bleeder before stopping for a second to actually think about what else could be wrong. I don't know what kind of calipers are on a 300zx but it mught be worth a look.


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

88c900t said:


> Will it hurt my turbocharged car with my much shorter commute? It will _just_ get up to temperature as I pull into work.


nope. everything is good to go after about 30 seconds. and that's just to make sure you have coolant and oil flowing, the rest is just to get the engine warmed up enough to run at it's most efficient.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

88c900t said:


> Will it hurt my turbocharged car with my much shorter commute? It will _just_ get up to temperature as I pull into work.





rstolz said:


> nope. everything is good to go after about 30 seconds. and that's just to make sure you have coolant and oil flowing, the rest is just to get the engine warmed up enough to run at it's most efficient.


True, technically everything is actually good to go after about 1-2 seconds. Once oil pressure comes up, you can start to drive. I personally wouldn't beat on a car or go WOT until everything is up to temp, that's just my mechanical sympathy. :thumbup:

However, there is some long term concern with short commutes. The engine oil will get polluted with the moisture in the air condensing on the inside walls of the engine. This moisture will only come out once oil has reached full operating temp and driven for awhile. It literally comes out as water vapor/steam from the breather. For people that use catch cans they know that 95% plus of what they catch is water, and only 5% or so actual oil mist. (give or take, high boost/compression motors can push more oil out) 

If you commute Mon-Fri and then drive the car around greater distances on the weekend, or go to some place across the city once a week, then don't worry about it. But if you only ever commute a short distance with this car, you should probably shorten your oil change intervals.

Excessive moisture in the crankcase shows up as that white slime under the oil cap, and inside the valve cover.


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## MBrown (Aug 1, 2000)

Thanks for the helpful post!

With my 120-mile-a-day commute, I'm not worried about it, but it's nice to see justification for those who drive short distances (which was me until about a year ago) now have justification for going out on weekends and driving the hell out of the car...um...I meant _*forcing moisture out of the oil.*_Yeah, that's right.


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

G60 Carat said:


> True, technically everything is actually good to go after about 1-2 seconds. Once oil pressure comes up, you can start to drive. I personally wouldn't beat on a car or go WOT until everything is up to temp, that's just my mechanical sympathy. :thumbup:
> 
> However, there is some long term concern with short commutes. The engine oil will get polluted with the moisture in the air condensing on the inside walls of the engine. This moisture will only come out once oil has reached full operating temp and driven for awhile. It literally comes out as water vapor/steam from the breather. For people that use catch cans they know that 95% plus of what they catch is water, and only 5% or so actual oil mist. (give or take, high boost/compression motors can push more oil out)
> 
> ...


:thumbup:


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## sy0296 (Sep 10, 2010)

ha, made it through the entire fread! some interesting knowledge and triva

props to vdub

my question: when is the porsche bubble going to burst, because i'm itching for a long nose


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## 88c900t (Jul 7, 2014)

G60 Carat said:


> True, technically everything is actually good to go after about 1-2 seconds. Once oil pressure comes up, you can start to drive. I personally wouldn't beat on a car or go WOT until everything is up to temp, that's just my mechanical sympathy. :thumbup:
> 
> However, there is some long term concern with short commutes. The engine oil will get polluted with the moisture in the air condensing on the inside walls of the engine. This moisture will only come out once oil has reached full operating temp and driven for awhile. It literally comes out as water vapor/steam from the breather. For people that use catch cans they know that 95% plus of what they catch is water, and only 5% or so actual oil mist. (give or take, high boost/compression motors can push more oil out)
> 
> ...


I had that slime s**t inside of my Volvo this winter when it was very cold, I thought I blew the head gasket! (since the car got hot once)

I drive long enough a couple times a week that I don't have to worry about that.


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## jokling7 (Jun 25, 2014)

*Help with distributor removal on a 2.0 VW Cabrio.*

My Cabrio has had everything in the last month. Ignition coil, throttle positioner sensor, alternator and the same problem still exists. Next, is the distributor and by other forums I have read it may be the Cam position sensor (Hall Sensor). Germanparts where I order my parts from suggested that changing the whole distributor would be a much easier task. Maybe so I one can get the distributor to release. 

Engine is at TDC on #1, so exactly what is holding this in. Please help....hood is up and waiting for this to come out!!!

Thank you, Jo


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

The hall sensor is the same as the cam position sensor (it doesn't actually measure the cam). Also pay attention to the exact year and part number, as the Mk3.5 Cabrios distributors and sensors changed once or twice (due to the Mk4 ECU). 

As for why it's not coming out, hope someone can help. I haven't done a lot of them, sorry


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

jokling7 said:


> My Cabrio has had everything in the last month. Ignition coil, throttle positioner sensor, alternator and the same problem still exists. Next, is the distributor and by other forums I have read it may be the Cam position sensor (Hall Sensor). Germanparts where I order my parts from suggested that changing the whole distributor would be a much easier task. Maybe so I one can get the distributor to release.
> 
> Engine is at TDC on #1, so exactly what is holding this in. Please help....hood is up and waiting for this to come out!!!
> 
> Thank you, Jo



what is the exact issue and what are your engine codes?


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## jokling7 (Jun 25, 2014)

*Help with distributor removal on a 2.0 VW Cabrio.*



wolfcastle said:


> what is the exact issue and what are your engine codes?


She does the same thing again, and again. She quits while going down the road as if someone shut off the key, won't pop-start, and when she does finally fire she acts as if she is a flooded carburetor. 

The Codes I couldn't tell you...when she broke down I had her towed to a garage and the guy told me the codes can't be read for the Ignition coil, but he was 200% sure this was my problem. I said install it and get me on the road. Then when she quit again, she would run but once you put her in gear she would stall right out. Another tow bill and the same garage again, he "programs the throttle positioner and alternator is the issue." 

I brought her home, she did it again. crank, no fire. when she finally fired in her flooded state I got her home and parked her. sifted through Vortex and came up by myself via similar diagnostics of others, I ordered the Hall sensor. 

Here's today's problem....Got the distributor finally out after first found TDC on #1 via marks on timing cover and notch, spark plug #1 and turned until piston in top position, installed then new distributor with same marks pointing to #1. Now, I have a dead #1 valve. Switched plugs #4 to #1, still dead (#1), switched wire #4 to #1, Still dead #1. Turned the distributor 180 degrees and absolutely no fire. When you pull #1 spark plug it is dry.... prior to taking this all down when she would run she was hitting on all 4's. 

So, any help would be appreciated. Right now, I am thinking the ECM/CPU or I have a dead injector on #1. 

Thank you.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

That's probably one of the last things i would have replaced if i were just firing the parts cannon at the car, given your symptoms.

Are you sure that the distributor is 100% on time? How are you sure that the #1 cyl is misfiring without being able to scan?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

How are you purchasing these parts? Are you sure they're for your particular VIN Cabrio? If you need, i can check numbers and find out what's supposed to be there. 

Those sound like complex problems, and replacing parts here and there might just get you into deeper problems. A good scan tool can give you the data you need for each sensor etc.


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## jokling7 (Jun 25, 2014)

*cabrio misfire etc, etc.*



wolfcastle said:


> That's probably one of the last things i would have replaced if i were just firing the parts cannon at the car, given your symptoms.
> 
> Are you sure that the distributor is 100% on time? How are you sure that the #1 cyl is misfiring without being able to scan?


Yes, I am certain at #1 not firing. If you go through each wire on distributor and remove one-by-one the car will definitely drop that cylinder and nearly quit. Number 1 has no effect...there is no change whatsoever. There is excellent spark coming off the #1 distributor cap. I did tests the spark plug on #1 and wire on #1, as posted in my previous - I was hoping that was the simple solution. 

As for throwing parts and where I am acquiring the parts. I could not tell you about the parts the garage obtained, i.e. alternator and ignition coil. I purchased the Hall Sensor combo distributor via GermanAutoParts. Two months prior, I purchased also the throttle body...when she would act flooded I would put Carb cleaner through the old throttle body and she would smooth out and run real well until her next glitch...that's what led me to purchasing a new throttle body, also attained from GermanAutoParts. She ran real well from Feb to end of March on the new throttle body, then she started to misbehave. 

Unfortunately, I cannot replace the old distributor back in...it took a oil filter strap with a great amount of force to remove the old distributor and crushed the housing. 

This evening I will go get the #'s off the parts thrown to this moody little girl... and the old part #s. Prior years I have replaced many, many sensors she has always had this hiccup with starting and each time the sensor seemed to do the job. 
I do certainly understand the need for a code, however, she's in my yard and I have no access to the scan tool. I cannot take on another tow bill for a scan b/c once you tow your vehicle in the garage has more plans than just a diagnostic scan tool. I am quite dissatisfied with a "reptutable VW garage." My last resort will be the actual dealership, though the last time she was in there, they had a hard time bc the "Tech" wasn't familiar with my car...progress I guess. VW certainly wanted me to look at their new cars though!!!

This evening I will be back to check in again, Thank you everyone trying to help.


----------



## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

Why would a potential buyer for my car want the vin# before he even looks at the car ?? Would that just be to carfax it ??


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

skydive_007 said:


> Why would a potential buyer for my car want the vin# before he even looks at the car ?? Would that just be to carfax it ??


Find out if its stolen.
Carfax report.
Determine how many registered owners.
Understand the car is real and the VIN is what you say it is.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Is it possible for 20+ year old antifreeze to look this clean?

It was actually even brighter than that but the pan got diluted when I flushed the rad with clean water.


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

thegave said:


> Is it possible for 20+ year old antifreeze to look this clean?
> 
> It was actually even brighter than that but the pan got diluted when I flushed the rad with clean water.


If it's a modern system, yes. Radiators are copper or aluminum, and even if the block is iron no new oxygen is getting to metal to corrode it as cooling systems are closed with recovery tanks. 

That looks like it's not diluted very much, so yes, it could easily be 29 years old.


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

It's out of a mk1 if that's considered modern? Ran Prestone coolant flush through it afterwards and it stayed pretty clean so I'm happy the coolant system is in good shape. Someone did right and used distilled water. 

Anyone know coolant capacity of Mk1 Rabbit off the top of their head? Manual, non-ac, integrated tank/cap


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Why would you use distilled water?


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

barry2952 said:


> Why would you use distilled water?


Aren't certain elements of some tap waters corrosive to aluminum or iron? I've always used distilled water for coolant, it's only $1/gallon at the store anyway. 

I am not sure if VW used green coolant in the Rabbits. By the late 80s, they were using the blue stuff, and switched to pink in the late 90s. Not sure if the coolant would be different if it was a USA built car, though. What makes you think it's 20+ years old, or original? How is the rubber on the car? Surface corrosion, but nothing deep, on bare metals?


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

VDub2625 said:


> Aren't certain elements of some tap waters corrosive to aluminum or iron? I've always used distilled water for coolant, it's only $1/gallon at the store anyway.
> 
> I am not sure if VW used green coolant in the Rabbits. By the late 80s, they were using the blue stuff, and switched to pink in the late 90s. Not sure if the coolant would be different if it was a USA built car, though. What makes you think it's 20+ years old, or original? How is the rubber on the car? Surface corrosion, but nothing deep, on bare metals?


The only thing in tap water that's corrosive to iron or aluminum is oxygen and that's still a basic component of distilled water. That's way overkill, but things like that give some people comfort. So, for a couple of bucks there's no harm.

Early antifreeze was alcohol and water. In an open system the alcohol would evaporate often leaving you with a cracked block or blown freeze plugs.


----------



## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

VDub2625 said:


> Aren't certain elements of some tap waters corrosive to aluminum or iron? I've always used distilled water for coolant, it's only $1/gallon at the store anyway.
> 
> I am not sure if VW used green coolant in the Rabbits. By the late 80s, they were using the blue stuff, and switched to pink in the late 90s. Not sure if the coolant would be different if it was a USA built car, though. What makes you think it's 20+ years old, or original? How is the rubber on the car? Surface corrosion, but nothing deep, on bare metals?


Yes... Ford recommends using distilled water in their cooling systems. It's friendlier on aluminum.

I think that Rabbit should've had the blue coolant in it. That's what my 83 GTI used. I highly, highly doubt that coolant is that old by looking at it.


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

barry2952 said:


> The only thing in tap water that's corrosive to iron or aluminum is oxygen ...


that's not true, galvanic corrosion occurs from other elements hence distilled water recommendation.
.... its not a made up thing, I've used both tap and distilled water. 
Consider that some tap water contains some serious heavy elements, OE's can't protect for this condition, why distilled water is best case.


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

Our water is full of lime, added to prevent lead leeching in older homes. It makes a crusty mess of the faucets, so I'm a little leery about putting it into a cooling system when distilled is fairly cheap.

When I switched from G11 to G12, I used tap water, because I was flushing the system 3 or 4 times. The final flush prior to adding the G12, I used Distilled.


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

I doubt it's original fluid but I say 20+ because it's been non-op from 1996 until last summer and this is the first time I've gotten around to dealing with the coolant because the water temp was acting funny. I've taken it to the shop a couple times since I had it running but I never asked them to do anything about it (because I've been planning to do it myself) and I doubt it's the kind of thing a shop does as a courtesy. They might have topped it up but that still doesn't explain how clean it looks generally. I was expecting something a little murkier looking. Maybe oil or fuel contamination, IDK, especially from sitting so long. Car does have 103k miles.

I thought every manufacturer recommends distilled water. Why else would anyone bother making it? It tastes disgusting.


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Just noticed one of my spangly new rotors has a small dent in it. Will it be ok to run like this or does it need to be turned/replaced?

It feels like the dented part does break the plane of the rotor face


----------



## Wolfslash16 (Aug 1, 2014)

thegave said:


> Just noticed one of my spangly new rotors has a small dent in it. Will it be ok to run like this or does it need to be turned/replaced?
> 
> It feels like the dented part does break the plane of the rotor face


That's a rather small dent, it shouldn't need the entire area to be resurfaced. I would take a file and file it down flat with the rest of the rotor personally. :thumbup:


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

JeffIsLax said:


> Put the front end on jackstands, and rotate one of the wheels by hand. If the other wheel rotates the same direction that you are rotating the other, you have a LSD. If the other wheel rotates in the opposite direction, you do not.


Are there any situations where the wheels would rotate in opposite directions even if there is a LSD?


----------



## bnkrpt311 (Apr 22, 2010)

Ok I am going to attempt to replace the pads and rotors on my Camry. I plan on ordering this kit from RockAuto. Will this cover me as far as parts go? 

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4660914&cc=1364644

I won't be doing it alone so I don't screw it up but I would like to make sure I have all the parts I need. Should I go ahead and replace the hubs as well since I'll be in there? Brake lines? etc.


----------



## TurboWraith (Sep 4, 2004)

You don't need anything else. I'd recommend plenty of brake cleaner and grease from your local parts store though. Wouldnt hurt to bleed/run in new fluid either. 

You may also want to rent a caliper piston tool from said parts store, assuming the rear pistons will need turned in.


----------



## rynodyno312 (Aug 20, 2012)

TurboWraith said:


> You may also want to rent a caliper piston tool from said parts store, assuming the rear pistons will need turned in.


A large c-clamp works for this as well.


----------



## bnkrpt311 (Apr 22, 2010)

rynodyno312 said:


> A large c-clamp works for this as well.





TurboWraith said:


> You don't need anything else. I'd recommend plenty of brake cleaner and grease from your local parts store though. Wouldnt hurt to bleed/run in new fluid either.
> 
> You may also want to rent a caliper piston tool from said parts store, assuming the rear pistons will need turned in.


Thanks guys. :beer:


----------



## The A1 and A2 German (Nov 18, 2002)

Why is my car very touchy in reverse? (not gear related)



It runs pig rich and will puff unburnt fuel then seems to go lean. In addition the clutch is 10x more sensitive. I've never stalled my car forward, yet in reverse all day long. It's extremely touchy. Is there a fuel cut off associated with reverse and the puffs are purging the fuel and then goes lean? After the puffs it'll feel like a "lean out and die situation" unless I tap the gas. Also rpms will drop below ~900 and want to die.

It's an orschtra of feathering the rpm and clutch pulling in reverse.


Edit: Phone word autoselect gets me once again.


----------



## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

The A1 and A2 German said:


> Why is my car very touchy in reverse? (not gear related)
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Reverse isn't synchronized.


----------



## 4.OMG (Dec 20, 2004)

rynodyno312 said:


> A large c-clamp works for this as well.


Not if the piston needs to be rotated to retract. Forcing the piston back in is a good way to ruin a caliper.


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Elite_Deforce said:


> Reverse isn't synchronized.


Is that why reverse crunches when you shift into it too quickly?


----------



## 4.OMG (Dec 20, 2004)

Elite_Deforce said:


> Reverse isn't synchronized.


Whether a gear is synchronized should only affect shifting into that gear, i.e., from a forward gear to reverse. 

With that said, I can't say I have any idea why the motor would run any differently in reverse than in neutral or a forward gear. I'm thinking it's coincidence.


----------



## 4.OMG (Dec 20, 2004)

thegave said:


> Is that why reverse crunches when you shift into it too quickly?


Yes.


----------



## Lucian1988 (Mar 25, 2009)

so I have an older car, that I did a brake job on back in 2011. I broke one of the brake lines on it, and all the fluid leaked out most likely. the brake lines have been sitting without fluid for the past 5 years, at least. Would i be safe to just readd brake fluid and bleed the brakes, or would I have to get all new brake lines since they have been exposed to air and such?


----------



## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

Acura RSX-S, 200K miles. 75% highway miles, hasn't been abused or raced.

Original owner
Original clutch
Original struts
Valves never set and they don't tick and idles smooth as glass.
Original fuel system
Original alternator
Original starter
Original fuel pump


Shouldn't something be breaking on this car? 

Should I sell it before something does break?


----------



## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

4.OMG said:


> Whether a gear is synchronized should only affect shifting into that gear, i.e., from a forward gear to reverse.
> 
> With that said, I can't say I have any idea why the motor would run any differently in reverse than in neutral or a forward gear. I'm thinking it's coincidence.


The super low reverse ratio and the fact that it is not synchronized can cause the motor to bog and generally seem to act weird in the right hands. Some people don't know how to feather clutch.


----------



## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

82Turbo930 said:


> Acura RSX-S, 200K miles. 75% highway miles, hasn't been abused or raced.
> 
> Original owner
> Original clutch
> ...


If it is really 75% highway miles, then it is possible for original suspension pieces to be ok. Especially in an area with good roads. Alternator, starter, fuel pump all things I would expect to last that long. Clutch is a feat in and of itself, good job! Hang on to that **** and keep doing what you're doing.


----------



## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

why can't I open my trunk when my glove compartment is open? lol
I ran into this while replacing the grille on my car last week, once I closed the glove compartment i was able to release the trunk, we finished what we were doing but I had to test it again so I open the glove compartment and sure enough, the trunk wouldn't open.


----------



## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

Dravenport said:


> why can't I open my trunk when my glove compartment is open? lol
> I ran into this while replacing the grille on my car last week, once I closed the glove compartment i was able to release the trunk, we finished what we were doing but I had to test it again so I open the glove compartment and sure enough, the trunk wouldn't open.


Because Nazis.


----------



## 4.OMG (Dec 20, 2004)

Elite_Deforce said:


> The super low reverse ratio and the fact that it is not synchronized can cause the motor to bog and generally seem to act weird in the right hands. Some people don't know how to feather clutch.


This doesn't make sense if you think about it. What he's describing is basically lugging the engine, like trying to accelerate from a stop in 4th gear. The solution to lugging is to downshift to a lower gear, then accelerate. 

Reverse's gear ratio is usually pretty comparable (and often even lower, meaning numerically higher) than 1st gear because it's meant for use at low speeds, generally from a stop, using minimal throttle (to avoid sudden/jerky acceleration, while travelling backwards...). Unless he has a reverse gear with a very high (numerically low) ratio, his engine bogging shouldn't be the result of the transmission being in reverse.


----------



## leitmotif (Oct 20, 2006)

Why is it that my key fob will lock the car but not beep the horn anymore. Or not unlock from the inside via the driver's door lock button. And sometimes I just hit the lock button on the fob, the lights flash but the car does not lock and the alarm doesn't arm.


----------



## 4.OMG (Dec 20, 2004)

barry2952 said:


> The only thing in tap water that's corrosive to iron or aluminum is oxygen and that's still a basic component of distilled water. That's way overkill, but things like that give some people comfort. So, for a couple of bucks there's no harm.
> 
> Early antifreeze was alcohol and water. In an open system the alcohol would evaporate often leaving you with a cracked block or blown freeze plugs.


I would consider running our Detroit city water in an automotive cooling system (I use distilled, but I would consider it) but I wouldn't use tap water from a lot of places. Too many solids to gunk up cooling passages and radiators even if it's not corrosive per se.


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

leitmotif said:


> Why is it that my key fob will lock the car but not beep the horn anymore. Or not unlock from the inside via the driver's door lock button. And sometimes I just hit the lock button on the fob, the lights flash but the car does not lock and the alarm doesn't arm.


Do you have more than one fob? Different fobs appear store personalized settings for lock/unlock behavior, so if you switched fobs, try using the other one.




4.OMG said:


> I would consider running our Detroit city water in an automotive cooling system (I use distilled, but I would consider it) but I wouldn't use tap water from a lot of places. Too many solids to gunk up cooling passages and radiators even if it's not corrosive per se.


Right on cue in my Parts Place Inc newsletter:



> TECH TALK: IT'S OK TO SPLURGE ON THE WATER
> 
> In fact, we recommend it.
> 
> ...


----------



## leitmotif (Oct 20, 2006)

thegave said:


> Do you have more than one fob? Different fobs appear store personalized settings for lock/unlock behavior, so if you switched fobs, try using the other one.


Unfortunately I only have the one. I have a vagcom so if there are any fixes within there I can test them out.


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Ya there are vagcom settings for horn confirmation and how many doors to unlock. Go to Central Electrics and the Long Coding helper.

Maybe also something is going duff with the actual electronics. I assume modern cars don't use pumps for central locking anymore?


----------



## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

4.OMG said:


> This doesn't make sense if you think about it. What he's describing is basically lugging the engine, like trying to accelerate from a stop in 4th gear. The solution to lugging is to downshift to a lower gear, then accelerate.
> 
> Reverse's gear ratio is usually pretty comparable (and often even lower, meaning numerically higher) than 1st gear because it's meant for use at low speeds, generally from a stop, using minimal throttle (to avoid sudden/jerky acceleration, while travelling backwards...). Unless he has a reverse gear with a very high (numerically low) ratio, his engine bogging shouldn't be the result of the transmission being in reverse.


If he is giving it loads of clutch, it would bog pretty fast. Or send him into a wall.


----------



## Vee-Dubber-GLI (Nov 27, 2006)

leitmotif said:


> Why is it that my key fob will lock the car but not beep the horn anymore. Or not unlock from the inside via the driver's door lock button. And sometimes I just hit the lock button on the fob, the lights flash but the car does not lock and the alarm doesn't arm.


Same with mine, I figured it's just the Mk4 gremlins coming out. It will lock but no horn, no horn and won't lock, all doors but driver's side unlock when I hit the unlock button twice. :banghead: Pretty sure it has something to do with cold/wet weather since that's when the majority of the issues pop up.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

4.OMG said:


> Reverse's gear ratio is usually pretty comparable (and often even lower, meaning numerically higher) than 1st gear because it's meant for use at low speeds, generally from a stop, using minimal throttle (to avoid sudden/jerky acceleration, while travelling backwards...). Unless he has a reverse gear with a very high (numerically low) ratio, his engine bogging shouldn't be the result of the transmission being in reverse.


But wouldn't the lower-than-1st ratio make the engine seem "magnified", meaning it'll feel touchy and like it's about to die if you aren't gentle with the clutch and throttle on/off? I don't think I ever fully release the clutch in reverse unless I have some distance to cover.


----------



## 4.OMG (Dec 20, 2004)

VDub2625 said:


> But wouldn't the lower-than-1st ratio make the engine seem "magnified", meaning it'll feel touchy and like it's about to die if you aren't gentle with the clutch and throttle on/off? I don't think I ever fully release the clutch in reverse unless I have some distance to cover.


No. Reverse should feel and act basically the same as first gear in that respect (reverse may be deeper than first, it typically isn't a huge difference like say the difference between first and fourth). The difference is that, as you point out, it isn't typically necessary (or desirable) to fully engage the clutch in reverse because reverse is generally only used at very low speeds for very short distances (parking, backing out of garage/parking space, etc.). 

My guess is that the symptoms he was describing are the result of something else that tends to occur when he is driving in reverse, i.e., when he is backing down his steep driveway and the nose of the car is above the fuel tank or immediately after a cold start (just some hypotheticals, I have no idea when his issue manifests itself).


----------



## leitmotif (Oct 20, 2006)

Vee-Dubber-GLI said:


> Same with mine, I figured it's just the Mk4 gremlins coming out. It will lock but no horn, no horn and won't lock, all doors but driver's side unlock when I hit the unlock button twice. :banghead: Pretty sure it has something to do with cold/wet weather since that's when the majority of the issues pop up.


It's really messing with me and I need to hook it up to my vcds and see if I can figure anything out. That would require my knowing how to use the software haha!


----------



## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

VDub2625 said:


> But wouldn't the lower-than-1st ratio make the engine seem "magnified", meaning it'll feel touchy and like it's about to die if you aren't gentle with the clutch and throttle on/off? I don't think I ever fully release the clutch in reverse unless I have some distance to cover.


Exactly.


----------



## 4.OMG (Dec 20, 2004)

See my previous reply. Reverse is no more likely to bog the engine or propel the car into a wall than first gear.


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

leitmotif said:


> It's really messing with me and I need to hook it up to my vcds and see if I can figure anything out. That would require my knowing how to use the software haha!


Sounds like you guys might be having an issue with the driver's door switch.

Particularly if the cold and/or wet weather seem to be affecting it.

Pretty common.


----------



## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

4.OMG said:


> See my previous reply. Reverse is no more likely to bog the engine or propel the car into a wall than first gear.


I think it doesn't matter, though. Reversing a car is physiologically and psychologically different than driving in 1st. It could just be driver error that is causing the bogging, or if its a front-drive car that has a softer suspension, the body dive back and forth that is not helping the case.


----------



## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

What are some good Ford forums (not specific to any model). While I did google search, it's hard to tell good from mediocre in a few minutes.

Thanks


----------



## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

2.0_Mazda said:


> What are some good Ford forums (not specific to any model). While I did google search, it's hard to tell good from mediocre in a few minutes.
> 
> Thanks


Can't speak for general Ford forums, but AllFordMustangs.com is where it's at.


----------



## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

...does Toyota still build their presedential V12-powered Century??

I've known about the existence this car for a while, but only recently I've starting looking it up...and noticed in wikipedia that its 'current' generation spans 1997-Present. Is this true??

...I have the weirdest boner right now.


----------



## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

So I just answered myself. I went to the Toyota Japan website and...sure enough, they still sell the damn thing. Virtually unchanged since 1997. 

In 2006, they went from a 4-speed to a 6-speed auto.
In 2010, the engine got revised and lost a few ponies in favor of low-emissions status.

But apart from that, it’s pretty much unchanged, which is why I like it.

It’s the only production Japanese V12, and it’s still in production. I think it’s awesome.

At ¥12,538,000, which is about $157,000 CAD. Holy crap. That’s an expensive Toyota. It's like the Volkswagen Phaeton, except wrinkled and reliable.


----------



## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

TwoLitreVW said:


> Sounds like you guys might be having an issue with the driver's door switch.
> 
> Particularly if the cold and/or wet weather seem to be affecting it.
> 
> Pretty common.


It could also be your hood latch switch. If it's not sensing the hood is closed, it'll lock the doors but not beep. Same with the hatch.


----------



## EnIgMa '06 (May 13, 2004)

What's the deal with amber markers? 

My 2004 3-series has amber tail lights and turn signals from the factory but the European market cars have clear tail lights and turn signals.
Conversely, a U.S. spec air-cooled 911 will have all red/clear tail lights while the European spec cars have amber/red/clear tail lights.

Why the discrepancy?


----------



## cwescapexlt4x4 (Jan 2, 2003)

EnIgMa '06 said:


> What's the deal with amber markers?
> 
> My 2004 3-series has amber tail lights and turn signals from the factory but the European market cars have clear tail lights and turn signals.
> Conversely, a U.S. spec air-cooled 911 will have all red/clear tail lights while the European spec cars have amber/red/clear tail lights.
> ...


The US market buyer for some reason like the red vs. the correct amber and our antiquated laws allow for the red vs. the European market does not and requires amber as we should in the USA. :banghead::banghead:


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

EnIgMa '06 said:


> What's the deal with amber markers?
> 
> My 2004 3-series has amber tail lights and turn signals from the factory but the European market cars have clear tail lights and turn signals.
> Conversely, a U.S. spec air-cooled 911 will have all red/clear tail lights while the European spec cars have amber/red/clear tail lights.
> ...



In Europe, they require clear front marker lights ("city" or parking lights). Orange or clear is acceptable in the US for the front. However, back in the day markers were often grouped with turn signals in the US (when headlights were headlights and turn signals were the only other place to put a light in the front), which is why most of them were orange (though that's changing as clear euro-style lights are more common). City lights were Europe's answer, because they did not require sealed beams like the US (up to 1984), and they could easily insert a bulb that fulfilled the clear requirement. 

As for rear, I don't know, but I think an automaker needs special approval in the US for clear turn signal housings? (of course they must always blink orange no matter what)

Another note, Jalopnik did a story on the refreshed Tiguan when it came out. They have an orange spot for the turn signal in the rear light, but don't use it in the US because it's too small of a visible area by law to pass US regs. So they just left the orange part and made the brake light blink. 

I think the biggest part of it is styling, though.


----------



## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

What exactly comprises "bolt-ons" when describing modified OHV engines? Ex: "The LS1 Corvette makes close to 400HP with just bolt-ons."


----------



## troyguitar (Dec 10, 2014)

DonPatrizio said:


> What exactly comprises "bolt-ons" when describing modified OHV engines? Ex: "The LS1 Corvette makes close to 400HP with just bolt-ons."


Depends on who you ask, but typically it's everything outside of the heads and block: headers, intake manifold, throttle body, air filter, pulleys, clutch/flywheel, and wheels/tires plus gears if you're talking about track times.

Technically pretty much everything is "bolt-on" including superchargers but people don't seem to use the term literally - at least not according to the old definition of "literally" :facepalm:


----------



## gotcha640 (Aug 23, 2014)

worth_fixing said:


>


On first glance I thought the (siren pole?) was part of the car, and that made it even better.


----------



## gotcha640 (Aug 23, 2014)

And for my own question, would I enjoy having a lightly stretched limo as much as I think I would? 4th car, after daily driver, beater truck, weekend racer. Would use for school runs on Fridays, off site department meetings, airport runs, day trips, longer road trips if reliable. 

Cons would be parking, maybe insurance, parking, maintaining or replacing the stretchy bits, and parking. And reversing.


----------



## VWmk3GTI (May 4, 2013)

Would a 2 1/2'' header going into a 2 1/4 exhaust system cause any problems ?


----------



## VWmk3GTI (May 4, 2013)

Nobody?


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

VWmk3GTI said:


> Nobody?


You wouldn't have the same flow, so there's that. Other than that I see no problem. Does that help?


----------



## VWmk3GTI (May 4, 2013)

barry2952 said:


> You wouldn't have the same flow, so there's that. Other than that I see no problem. Does that help?


A bit  Would there be any negatives performance wise?


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Often back pressure is required for maximum performance, so it might have a positive effect.


----------



## VWmk3GTI (May 4, 2013)

barry2952 said:


> Often back pressure is required for maximum performance, so it might have a positive effect.


Thank you Barry


----------



## HackAC (Jan 18, 2014)

Two cars, an Edsel and a Studebaker, are 635 kilometers apart. They 
start at the same time and drive toward each other. The Edsel travels 
at a rate of 70 kilometers per hour and the Studebaker travels 57 
kilometers per hour. In how many hours will the two cars meet?


----------



## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

HackAC said:


> Two cars, an Edsel and a Studebaker, are 635 kilometers apart. They
> start at the same time and drive toward each other. The Edsel travels
> at a rate of 70 kilometers per hour and the Studebaker travels 57
> kilometers per hour. In how many hours will the two cars meet?


*Picture of dragon*


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Possible stupid question from a non-physicist:
I can see how lighter wheels are better for acceleration and handling on just about any car. Lower rotating mass, less unsprung weight, etc. But lets say you have a car that does mainly long-distance highway driving, with very little stop/start acceleration or even cornering. Would a heavier wheel actually be beneficial from a MPG/efficiency perspective? Would the heavier wheels act as "flywheels" that maintain forward momentum?


----------



## 88c900t (Jul 7, 2014)

gotcha640 said:


> And for my own question, would I enjoy having a lightly stretched limo as much as I think I would? 4th car, after daily driver, beater truck, weekend racer. Would use for school runs on Fridays, off site department meetings, airport runs, day trips, longer road trips if reliable.
> 
> Cons would be parking, maybe insurance, parking, maintaining or replacing the stretchy bits, and parking. And reversing.
> 
> ]


Under no circumstances buy it if it has the HT4100 V8. Unreliable and underpowered turd of an engine.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

VWmk3GTI said:


> Would a 2 1/2'' header going into a 2 1/4 exhaust system cause any problems ?


I was going to reply yesterday but I'm not that super knowledgeable so i figured someone else smarter would take it  Backpressure, as I understand it, is beneficial to torque but detrimental to horsepower. I don't know the physics involved, or how to figure out the optimum point between the two, but that's the theory. 



MrMook said:


> Possible stupid question from a non-physicist:
> I can see how lighter wheels are better for acceleration and handling on just about any car. Lower rotating mass, less unsprung weight, etc. But lets say you have a car that does mainly long-distance highway driving, with very little stop/start acceleration or even cornering. Would a heavier wheel actually be beneficial from a MPG/efficiency perspective? Would the heavier wheels act as "flywheels" that maintain forward momentum?


No, flywheels only make a difference in the event of acceleration/force change such as clutching, when you want the engine to continue rotation with the sudden loss of power heavier flywheel), or you want the engine to change speed quickly (lightened), but heavy wheels need to be brought up to speed and have their speed maintained by slightly more power/fuel. They would maintain momentum but it would also require fuel to get to that momentum.


----------



## dirtyfingers (Apr 29, 2007)

The new Chevrolet Spark has a direct injected engine. Is this going to have the same carbon build up issues as all DI engines?


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

VDub2625 said:


> No, flywheels only make a difference in the event of acceleration/force change such as clutching......


Thanks, that makes sense. The car would need to constantly spend energy to rotate the heavier wheels until that brief moment (gear changes, or possibly coasting in neutral down a long hill?) when power to the wheels is stopped, but forward movement is still maintained. But over the long haul, it seems like more energy would be expended just keeping the wheels at a constant speed.

[Starts pricing RPF1's for the family truckster]


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

dirtyfingers said:


> The new Chevrolet Spark has a direct injected engine. Is this going to have the same carbon build up issues as all DI engines?


There are literally millions of DI Ford engines out there that don't have this problem.


----------



## dirtyfingers (Apr 29, 2007)

saron81 said:


> There are literally millions of DI Ford engines out there that don't have this problem.


Yes, because the powershift automatic kills the car long before it happens. :laugh:


----------



## NashGTI (Mar 8, 2006)

VWmk3GTI said:


> Would a 2 1/2'' header going into a 2 1/4 exhaust system cause any problems ?


couple of questions in order to answer your question. How far back is the 2.5 inch pipe going before it drops down to the 2.25 inch stuff. Also what kind of transition are you talking about, a sudden flat walled step down or something with more of a funnel to it. Is the exhaust gets farther from the engine itself it cools down and as it cools down it has less volume to it, meaning you need less diameter to the pipe the farther back the exhaust is from the engine to maintain efficient flow. A smooth transition is always going to be ideal though.



MrMook said:


> Possible stupid question from a non-physicist:
> I can see how lighter wheels are better for acceleration and handling on just about any car. Lower rotating mass, less unsprung weight, etc. But lets say you have a car that does mainly long-distance highway driving, with very little stop/start acceleration or even cornering. Would a heavier wheel actually be beneficial from a MPG/efficiency perspective? Would the heavier wheels act as "flywheels" that maintain forward momentum?



The short answer would be no, but the longer answer would be that under certain circumstances it could be beneficial. Something where you do a lot of up and down hill travel or the like where you can maintain a constant speed without any real starting and stopping. The inertia of the wheels would help the car maintain speed going up the hill, especially if you could gain the speed back by coasting downhill. Realistically though, the idea there is that you could save a bit if you simply HAD to maintain speed, you could achieve essentially the same savings by simply letting the speed drop as you climb a hill with the lighter wheels.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

*FV-QR*

Why is there such a wide range of prices for R107 SL mercedes? I mean, it's everything from $4500 drivers to $45,000 minty fresh. Are people actually buying these things? are they THAT good? i mean, sure, it's golden era MB, but they made tons of these cars, it's not like they are rare.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Yes, there's a good number of them out there, but there's also a very broad range of quality of specimen. 

And there's buyers for the entire range, apparently.


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## sweatyworker (May 4, 2005)

A.Wilder said:


> Why is there such a wide range of prices for R107 SL mercedes? I mean, it's everything from $4500 drivers to $45,000 minty fresh. Are people actually buying these things? are they THAT good? i mean, sure, it's golden era MB, but they made tons of these cars, it's not like they are rare.
> /QUOTE]
> 
> 
> Long production run so newer cars = higher prices, some of the later model vehicles have very low mileage. Also a wide range of engines/transmissions available with the later 560SL bringing big dollars. Also I imagine the US has quite a few grey market cars that are perhaps less (or more?) desirable.


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## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

If you mounted a 190,000,000,000,0000,000 lb flywheel to your car, could you start it up, rev it up a bit overnight and then turn the car off and drive around town the next day on just the spinning momentum alone, thus saving gasoline and polluting less?


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## 0dd_j0b (Sep 22, 2007)

82Turbo930 said:


> If you mounted a 190,000,000,000,0000,000 lb flywheel to your car, could you start it up, rev it up a bit overnight and then turn the car off and drive around town the next day on just the spinning momentum alone, thus saving gasoline and polluting less?


Only VTEC would have the torque to get that spinning. Plausible.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

82Turbo930 said:


> If you mounted a 190,000,000,000,0000,000 lb flywheel to your car, could you start it up, rev it up a bit overnight and then turn the car off and drive around town the next day on just the spinning momentum alone, thus saving gasoline and polluting less?


Absolutely not.

In the best case scenario, it would yield the same result as an engine with no flywheel. But then there's the added friction and resistance. And there's the added inneficiency of not using all of the momentum you gathered while running the engine to get it up to speed.

To spin a 190,000,000,000,0000,000 lbs flywheel with a 150hp engine, you would need to have a very intricate set of gears to be able to turn it 1 rpm, where you would be introducing even more loss to heat and friction.

As far as I know, a flywheel on an internal combustion engine has the sole purpose of smoothing out the explosion, and make it more comfortable, as the engine's rpm doesn't fluctuate as easily with the introduction of more or less throttle application.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

82Turbo930 said:


> If you mounted a 190,000,000,000,0000,000 lb flywheel to your car, could you start it up, rev it up a bit overnight and then turn the car off and drive around town the next day on just the spinning momentum alone, thus saving gasoline and polluting less?


Small ultra high speed flywheels were considered as a vehicle power source not that long ago. They would be spun up with electricity, which we all know uses no fuel.


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## NashGTI (Mar 8, 2006)

82Turbo930 said:


> If you mounted a 190,000,000,000,0000,000 lb flywheel to your car, could you start it up, rev it up a bit overnight and then turn the car off and drive around town the next day on just the spinning momentum alone, thus saving gasoline and polluting less?


Theoretically yes, but what you need is momentum not necessarily weight as weight comes with an inherit economy penalty. So you'd be better off spinning a normal range flywheel to astronomical RPM.

I had an instructor in school who was an NHRA Super Stock racer back in the 60s and 70s racing a Chevelle Wagon with a small block V8. He was running 12 second quarter miles using a 283 and Powerglide two speed automatic with a stock bottom end and setting records. His trick was using a 40 pound flywheel and spinning it up to 13,000 RPM or so. You generate a ton of momentum that way then slam the trans into first and let that momentum yank the car forwards. He had a picture of the small block Chevelle wagon lifting the front tires off the ground.


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## vwb5t (Jun 23, 2008)

NashGTI said:


> Theoretically yes, but what you need is momentum not necessarily weight as weight comes with an inherit economy penalty. So you'd be better off spinning a normal range flywheel to astronomical RPM.
> 
> I had an instructor in school who was an NHRA Super Stock racer back in the 60s and 70s racing a Chevelle Wagon with a small block V8. He was running 12 second quarter miles using a 283 and Powerglide two speed automatic with a stock bottom end and setting records. His trick was using a 40 pound flywheel and spinning it up to 13,000 RPM or so. You generate a ton of momentum that way then slam the trans into first and let that momentum yank the car forwards. He had a picture of the small block Chevelle wagon lifting the front tires off the ground.


im so confused by what you said, he had a 40lb flywheel on his automatic and had a 283 stock bottom end that spun 13000 RPM? how many engines did it take to get down the track spinning them at 13k RPM?


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## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

In what ways are medium and heavy duty manual transmissions different than a "normal" light duty transmission, as in how are they designed for clutchless shifting?


----------



## benjamminfla (Aug 7, 2015)

Besides having less tire on the road, what are some (negative or positive) effects of going to a smaller width wheel & tire?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

benjamminfla said:


> Besides having less tire on the road, what are some (negative or positive) effects of going to a smaller width wheel & tire?


If the weight capacity of the wheel and tire are sufficient the only downside I can see is a smaller contact patch which would affect turning, accelerating and stopping. The upside would be lower weight, but that's not a huge plus. If you're changing wheel size you're likely changing the circumference of the tire which will affect shift points for automatics and it will mess up the accuracy of your speed and odometer.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

A skinnier tire will generally have less rolling resistance which means a bit more MPG. You won't notice it much on a 20 MPG car or truck but on something that gets 40+ MPG it will impact the numbers more (even though it isn't that much percentage wise).

I am seeing a 2-3 MPG drop after doing a plus zero (165 > 175) on our Mirage (though the new Michelins look at least 20mm wider than the Dunlop Enasaves that came on the car, also came on the i-Miev). I will trade that for being able to stop when it's raining.


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## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

benjamminfla said:


> Besides having less tire on the road, what are some (negative or positive) effects of going to a smaller width wheel & tire?


Keeping tire pressure the same, the same amount of tire will always be on the road. It'll just be in a different configuration (longer instead of wider).

Think of it this way:

You have the weight of the car, measured in pounds.

You have the tire footprint on the road, measured in square inches. 

You have the tire pressure, measured in pounds per square inch. 

If the weight of the car and the tire pressure stays the same, the footprint of the tires will stay the same. This is all within reason, of course, because tires are not infinitely deformable (steel belts and whatnot).


A longer, longitudinal footprint helps with acceleration, whereas a wider tire footprint helps with lateral-grip movements (like cornering).


I know a lot of people think that going to a wider tire is automatically going to give the car 'more tire on the road,' and that's not really correct. :beer:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

All I know is skinnier tires are better for winter, they cut through snow easier, so I've heard.


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## pontiac (Aug 3, 2009)

Smigelski said:


> Keeping tire pressure the same, the same amount of tire will always be on the road. It'll just be in a different configuration (longer instead of wider).


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

VDub2625 said:


> All I know is skinnier tires are better for winter, they cut through snow easier, so I've heard.


Yes. A wider tire will glide over the snow reducing traction rather than dig into it.


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## benjamminfla (Aug 7, 2015)

Smigelski said:


> Keeping tire pressure the same, the same amount of tire will always be on the road. It'll just be in a different configuration (longer instead of wider).
> 
> Think of it this way:
> 
> ...


Thanks for all the responses-especially this one. That's very helpful. I'm going to shoot for keeping the tire pressure the same as well as the overall diameter and offset, so I should see minimal impact going from an 7.5" wide wheel to a 7" wide wheel.


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## PerL (Jan 9, 2001)

Smigelski said:


> A longer, longitudinal footprint helps with acceleration, whereas a wider tire footprint helps with lateral-grip movements (like cornering).


It also helps with braking, since it's the opposite of acceleration, and not only that, a narrower tire also has less wind resistance (which helps mpg) and less chance of aqua planing.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

did these LS1 V12 engines ever make it into a running driving project car?


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## NashGTI (Mar 8, 2006)

vwb5t said:


> im so confused by what you said, he had a 40lb flywheel on his automatic and had a 283 stock bottom end that spun 13000 RPM? how many engines did it take to get down the track spinning them at 13k RPM?


I guess the proper wording would've been flex plate to start out with. Listening to him talk about the stuff they used to do back then was eye opening. Engines didn't last long and had tendency to fail spectacularly, which eventually led to the changing of the rules for the classes he ran. They had to use dealer parts but could then do whatever they pleased with the parts. He showed us some heads where they had filled in the ports with metal and then just cut new ones higher up for better flow. He said one guy went through and figured out that ever once in a while a stock small block chevy rocker arm from the dealer wasn't actually a 1.5:1 ratio, they were actually 1.6:1, so the guy literally went through hundreds of rocker arms and found the 16 highest ratio arms to run in his engine.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

How much will I regret getting "bucket" (Recaro Speed) seats trimmed in vinyl for the sake of matching the rest of my interior? It's meant to be a fun track car but obviously I want it to still look good and "correct".

I'm thinking about getting TMI tweed which I've read is surprisingly soft and comfortable but I imagine it will retain heat just the same? Are my pants going to be drenched at a HPDE?


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

thegave said:


> How much will I regret getting "bucket" (Recaro Speed) seats trimmed in vinyl for the sake of matching the rest of my interior?


Just take out the rear seats, and then your Recaros will only have to match each other 

I think you'll regret vinyl for three reasons: 
- While your seats seem pretty heavily bolstered, vinyl is slippery. I'd at least do fabric inserts, and vinyl bolsters if it helps the car look more correct.
- Vinyl doesn't breathe. Again, fabric inserts might help here.
- You'll have paid the cost of labor for recovering your seats with.....vinyl. Thats like paying for locally raised organic meat, and using it to make Hamburger Helper.


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## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

While on the topic of tires, is it worth going down a sidewall size in order to get a tire with higher performance rating? 215/60R16 -> 215/55R16


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

DonPatrizio said:


> While on the topic of tires, is it worth going down a sidewall size in order to get a tire with higher performance rating? 215/60R16 -> 215/55R16


Unless it's a performance vehicle, I would say no. More sidewall is better for a road car in general.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

MrMook said:


> Just take out the rear seats, and then your Recaros will only have to match each other
> 
> I think you'll regret vinyl for three reasons:
> - While your seats seem pretty heavily bolstered, vinyl is slippery. I'd at least do fabric inserts, and vinyl bolsters if it helps the car look more correct.
> ...


Follow up with: If I do vinyl bolsters, what other material for the inserts would go well with the vinyl and be purpose suitable? Is tweed comfortable to sit on?

The new Recaros come with some kind of microfiber looking fabric that also looks very comfortable.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

If all diesels have particulate filters, why is there visible soot out the tailpipes of all diesels, old and new?

Also, do commercial trucks (ie. cement trucks, transport rigs, etc.) have particulate filters? Anytime I see one under load, there a thick black soot cloud being pumped out of the exhaust. What gives? How could this not be remedied??


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## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

worth_fixing said:


> If all diesels have particulate filters, why is there visible soot out the tailpipes of all diesels, old and new?
> 
> Also, do commercial trucks (ie. cement trucks, transport rigs, etc.) have particulate filters? Anytime I see one under load, there a thick black soot cloud being pumped out of the exhaust. What gives? How could this not be remedied??


Tier 1-3 emissions standards were implemented in 1994 which was basically only cats and engine design to meet emissions. Tier 4 A started around 2004 which is when we started seeing urea or dpf, depending on manufacturer. We're now in Tier 4 final which now pretty much everyone will run both systems. Anything newer than 2004 you shouldn't see smoke, older ones will smoke. 

The scr/dpf systems are about controlling NOx emissions, not necessarily soot.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

VR6JH said:


> Tier 1-3 emissions standards were implemented in 1994 which was basically only cats and engine design to meet emissions. Tier 4 A started around 2004 which is when we started seeing urea or dpf, depending on manufacturer. We're now in Tier 4 final which now pretty much everyone will run both systems. Anything newer than 2004 you shouldn't see smoke, older ones will smoke.
> 
> The scr/dpf systems are about controlling NOx emissions, not necessarily soot.


I thought that particulate filters were just that; solid particulate filters, the visible soot being the solid particulate?

And I'm very certain I see many diesels, both commercial and passenger car, spew soot out the back.


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## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

worth_fixing said:


> I thought that particulate filters were just that; solid particulate filters, the visible soot being the solid particulate?
> 
> And I'm very certain I see many diesels, both commercial and passenger car, spew soot out the back.


Yes but they're don't filter 100% (nor do they have to). They're about 90% efficient on the high side and around 30%in the low side. Manufacturers just have to meet a certain limit of allowable PM. 

And I guess you'd have to define "spew soot". Diesels are naturally very sooty so there will always be some on the tailpipe. Are you referring to more of the "rolling coal" type? When you see semis puff black smoke as they shift that's more along the lines of basically running rich while the turbo is spooling back up. Which has since been more or less taken care of with all the emissions stuff. You shouldn't see a newer car puff much or any black smoke, but there will always be soot.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

Looking through craigslist at cars built from 1960-1969 and some of the people say "fiber-glass work in the usual places and for the most part, very good results." WTF does that mean? :screwy:


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## NashGTI (Mar 8, 2006)

rust repair


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## limastock (Feb 17, 2009)

A.Wilder said:


> Looking through craigslist at cars built from 1960-1969 and some of the people say "fiber-glass work in the usual places and for the most part, very good results." WTF does that mean? :screwy:


some people use boat fixing products to repair rust spots. like in the floor pans for instance. Its better than using bondo but worse than riveting/welding in new metal


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## Giovanni (May 13, 2000)

what is this blue called? the seller calls it "ozone blue" but isn't it laguna blue?


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## 88c900t (Jul 7, 2014)

I have a tire on my Miata that loses a significant amount of air every week. Besides taking the tire off and having the lip sanded down, or being an idjit and filling it with slime, what are my options? No, it isn't the tire, as I had the same exact scenario with the ice tires. 


The clutch pedal likes to sink in my Volvo S40, there is most likely air in the hydraulic system. Since it shares fluid with the braking system, will bleeding the brakes fix this?


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Did you check the valve to make sure it's not leaking?


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## Just Another Sweater (Aug 11, 2002)

You could check the bead and valve stem by filling a spray bottle with a soapy solution and spraying the wheel. Bubbles should form where the air is leaking. If the valve stems are old they will start to leak and eventually fail. I had valve stems separate after about 10 years when the car was stored.


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## Mark Vier (Dec 9, 2011)

88c900t said:


> The clutch pedal likes to sink in my Volvo S40, there is most likely air in the hydraulic system. Since it shares fluid with the braking system, will bleeding the brakes fix this?


How old is the brake fluid? If more than 3 years, I'd flush the fluid. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## 4.OMG (Dec 20, 2004)

88c900t said:


> I have a tire on my Miata that loses a significant amount of air every week. Besides taking the tire off and having the lip sanded down, or being an idjit and filling it with slime, what are my options? No, it isn't the tire, as I had the same exact scenario with the ice tires.
> 
> 
> The clutch pedal likes to sink in my Volvo S40, there is most likely air in the hydraulic system. Since it shares fluid with the braking system, will bleeding the brakes fix this?


There should be a separate bleeder for the clutch. 

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?146834


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## freedomperiod (Aug 22, 2009)

Ok this is a serious question. I have pondered this for years, and never once has anyone given me a satisfactory answer:

There are millions of vehicles (which run on tires) driving all over the world, all the time, right? Eventually every one of them will need new tires if driven long enough, right? My question is this: *WHERE DOES ALL THE RUBBER GO?*

I mean, we're not all walking around covered in tire soot. Nobody complains that tire particles cause an environmental hazard. Seriously, why isn't there powdered rubber all over everything? Does it become part of the road or something? How does it degrade, because with all those damn tires wearing down, you'd think we'd see a lot more evidence of it.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

http://www.straightdope.com/columns/read/2661/when-the-rubber-meets-the-road-where-does-it-go


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## AZGolf (Jun 6, 2000)

freedomperiod said:


> Nobody complains that tire particles cause an environmental hazard.


On the contrary: http://www.greencarcongress.com/2012/06/harrison-20120611.html

It's actually a significant topic of conversation as engine exhaust gets cleaner. Tires and brake dust are the next big categories of PM emissions once you eliminate engine exhaust, such as with an EV. EVs mitigate their brake dust by electric regen, but still have PM from tires. Expect to hear more about efforts to reduce total vehicle PM as we see ICE go away and EVs dominate in the coming decades.


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## homerdash (Jan 13, 2008)

Let's assume your car has a seat that goes forward and back, the backrest is adjustable back and forth, and there is a height adjustment of the seat. The wheel is height adjustable and telescoping.

What is the correct order to adjust the seat and wheel (then mirrors)? Like if you were starting from scratch after delivery.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

homerdash said:


> Let's assume your car has a seat that goes forward and back, the backrest is adjustable back and forth, and there is a height adjustment of the seat. The wheel is height adjustable and telescoping.
> 
> What is the correct order to adjust the seat and wheel (then mirrors)? Like if you were starting from scratch after delivery.


Adjust seat base to pedals,adjust seat back, adjust wheel and mirrors.


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## Quentin (Apr 17, 2006)

Giovanni said:


> what is this blue called? the seller calls it "ozone blue" but isn't it laguna blue?


Front overhang blue. 


Sent from Tandy 400


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

AZGolf said:


> On the contrary: http://www.greencarcongress.com/2012/06/harrison-20120611.html
> 
> It's actually a significant topic of conversation as engine exhaust gets cleaner. Tires and brake dust are the next big categories of PM emissions once you eliminate engine exhaust, such as with an EV. EVs mitigate their brake dust by electric regen, but still have PM from tires. Expect to hear more about efforts to reduce total vehicle PM as we see ICE go away and EVs dominate in the coming decades.


Eh, not looking forward to horrible braking from super hard pads and tires. The difference between the rock-hard Goodyear Fuelmax tires that came on my car and the Michelin Energy summer tires I have now is pretty shocking. With the OEM tires if I had to brake suddenly I would get a bunch of ABS scratching and not a lot of deceleration. Now I can make everything fly off the seat and into the dashboard with no ABS intervention.


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## freedomperiod (Aug 22, 2009)

adrew said:


> http://www.straightdope.com/columns/read/2661/when-the-rubber-meets-the-road-where-does-it-go





AZGolf said:


> On the contrary: http://www.greencarcongress.com/2012/06/harrison-20120611.html
> 
> It's actually a significant topic of conversation as engine exhaust gets cleaner. Tires and brake dust are the next big categories of PM emissions once you eliminate engine exhaust, such as with an EV. EVs mitigate their brake dust by electric regen, but still have PM from tires. Expect to hear more about efforts to reduce total vehicle PM as we see ICE go away and EVs dominate in the coming decades.


Thank you!
(left satisfied)


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## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

*What could have caused my 1yr old front driver brake rotor to warp?
*

I replaced all 4 brakes, rotors and pads with Centric Premium Rotors and Posi Quiet Ceramic Pads. I've done 25k kilometers since I installed them and only recently (3k or 1month) my front driver rotor has started to warp and is getting worse.

I already ordered a replacement rotor though I don't want to install a new one to ruin it in another month. I feel the front left caliper is sticking but only every once and a while and I can only hear it after long drives when I back up and steer at low speeds. The car coasts to a stop very smoothly and doesn't pull when I'm not pressing the brakes. It never pulled while braking before the brake rotor warped but now it does massively because of the uneven surface. 

Not really much to work with but do you guys have any thoughts on what it could be (if not a sticking caliper)? If the caliper is the problem, how could I fix it or would it need to be replaced?

Thanks for the help :beer:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Does it feel like it has more resistance than the other side when free spinning it off the ground in neutral? I assume when you did the pads and rotors you retracted the caliper, did it feel smooth? Did you grease the slides up?


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## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

VDub2625 said:


> Does it feel like it has more resistance than the other side when free spinning it off the ground in neutral? I assume when you did the pads and rotors you retracted the caliper, did it feel smooth? Did you grease the slides up?


The dealer did the front ones because the old rotors were way too rusted onto the hub. From the looks of it, they greased the slides. 

I'll try spinning the wheels tonight and see


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## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

2.0_Mazda said:


> *What could have caused my 1yr old front driver brake rotor to warp?
> *


It could be that the rotor isn't warped at all. It could just have a 'high spot' of brake material built up on it that makes it feel like it is warped.

Also, make sure to tighten the lugs in star pattern and not to over tighten them. Doing otherwise can cause warpage.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

All I can think of is a cheap disc, rapidly cooled in an uneven manner.

I have a little warp in at least one of my front discs, and they've never been removed or changed, with only 43,000 km on these original Mazda parts. I'm sure at some point, while the rotors were hot from a recent session of braking, a puddle of water hit part of one/both rotors and warped it/them. I'm sure it doesn't take much with cheap rotors.

The warp is very mild, but if I'm attentive enough, even during mild braking it can be felt.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

I was taught years ago to not sit with my foot on the brake after coming to a hard stop (like 80 to 0 coming off the interstate). I have never had warped rotors or deposits on any of my cars and I use the brakes harder than the average person (don't ride them but use them enthusiastically).


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## Mightion (Mar 19, 2008)

Wash, rubbing compound, polish, wax, or wash, rubbing compound, wax, then polish?


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

Mightion said:


> Wash, rubbing compound, polish, wax, or wash, rubbing compound, wax, then polish?


polish then wax, iirc. polish preps the paint for the wax, the wax protects the paint. if you waxed first the polish would remove some of it and make it all smeary.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

A.Wilder said:


> polish then wax, iirc. polish preps the paint for the wax, the wax protects the paint. if you waxed first the polish would remove some of it and make it all smeary.


(and I don't know if I would put rubbing compound on a 2016 car if that is what the question is referring to ... maybe try clay barring it?)


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

How do you know when its time to buy a new battery ???




I've been having some intermittent wire problems in the fuel system (or something?? nobody can figure it out yet) and that makes for a hard start... if I have to start the car more than 3 times in one day it just wont be able too...


I'm going to take it to a new mechanic this week but I'm wondering if I should replace the battery anyway ??

**1998 Subaru Legacy Outback 

:banghead:


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## Harpoon (Jan 5, 2008)

adrew said:


> (and I don't know if I would put rubbing compound on a 2016 car if that is what the question is referring to ... maybe try clay barring it?)


This. Do not compound a brand new car, it'll just swirl the heck out of the paint. Rubbing compounds are very aggressive. A lighter polish is better but really all I would do to a new car is wash, clay, wax.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

skydive_007 said:


> How do you know when its time to buy a new battery ???
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Are you sure the alternator is cranking out enough juice to charge the battery?

Those parts are easy to diagnose if you have a meter, and lots of places can test for free.


----------



## The A1 and A2 German (Nov 18, 2002)

- Where the phuck does every grub screw, allen bolt, nut, washer, spacer, shim and hex head go when it falls out of my hands onto the garage floor? 

- When I die, before Saint Peter, do I receive said hardware back in 65 5 Gallon buckets?

- Will I have use or need for 500lbs of hardware in paradise that previously vanished into thin air via the tiny microscopic wormhole into which it fell during my mortality once it dropped from said hands?


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## BRealistic (Dec 17, 2005)

Why don't you ever see bird sh*t all over ugly cars?
It's always the nice clean ones.
It's like birds have a sick sense of humor.


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

TwoLitreVW said:


> Are you sure the alternator is cranking out enough juice to charge the battery?
> 
> Those parts are easy to diagnose if you have a meter, and lots of places can test for free.


This was my first thought... I'll have to have someone look at it for me. I no longer have a garage to do my own work. Nor do I know how to test an alternator


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## VWVan (Feb 17, 2000)

So my reverse lights don't work. Apparently there is a switch in the tranny that has to be cleaned/replaced. The part is $500. Plus whatever labour. I'm not paying $700-800 maybe more just to have reverse lights. So I thought I would get some white led lights, drill a hole in the reverse light and wire to 12v and a switch. Most cost effective way of doing it? Plus I can flip them on for tailgaters.:laugh:


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

BRealistic said:


> Why don't you ever see bird sh*t all over ugly cars?
> It's always the nice clean ones.
> It's like birds have a sick sense of humor.


More like discerning taste. It's not just birds, squirrels like shiny things too.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

I've always wondered why strange cylinder numbers have never been manufactured, even for prototype or studies. For example, a straight-7, or straight-9. I can understand it's impractical and, to a certain degree, utterly useless. But I'm sure it's possible. And if it's possible, I'm sure someone at some point has done it. Manufacturers have already built straight- and V-5 cylinder engines. I don't see why a 7- and 9-cylinder arrangement couldn't be done.

I would want someone to build one almost exclusively to hear how it would sound strung out at full load. :laugh:

Edit : Well ok, I actually looked a little and found out a MANN truck was powered by a straight-7 2-stroke diesel,


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

worth_fixing said:


> I've always wondered why strange cylinder numbers have never been manufactured, even for prototype or studies. For example, a straight-7, or straight-9. I can understand it's impractical and, to a certain degree, utterly useless. But I'm sure it's possible. And if it's possible, I'm sure someone at some point has done it. Manufacturers have already built straight- and V-5 cylinder engines. I don't see why a 7- and 9-cylinder arrangement couldn't be done.
> 
> I would want someone to build one almost exclusively to hear how it would sound strung out at full load. :laugh:


I would guess that odd numbered engines would have some bad vibrations that couldn't be cured with firing order changes.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

saron81 said:


> I would guess that odd numbered engines would have some bad vibrations that couldn't be cured with firing order changes.


Balance shaft maybe? I mean, an uneven number of cylinders will always have a little more vibration, but the more cylinders there are, the smoother, right? Like a 7-cylinder should inherently be smoother than a 5- or a 3-cylinder engine.


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## DerSpiegel (Jun 20, 2008)

worth_fixing said:


> Balance shaft maybe? I mean, an uneven number of cylinders will always have a little more vibration, but the more cylinders there are, the smoother, right? Like a 7-cylinder should inherently be smoother than a 5- or a 3-cylinder engine.


Vibrations yes, but probably a lot more to do with packaging and manufacturing. Inline 7cyl. would be a very long engine, yet still one cylinder short of a v8 which would be far more compact, weigh less, not need a balance shaft arrangement or a long spindly crankshaft.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

VWVan said:


> So my reverse lights don't work. Apparently there is a switch in the tranny that has to be cleaned/replaced. The part is $500. Plus whatever labour. I'm not paying $700-800 maybe more just to have reverse lights. So I thought I would get some white led lights, drill a hole in the reverse light and wire to 12v and a switch. Most cost effective way of doing it? Plus I can flip them on for tailgaters.:laugh:


woah.

what car is it that a reverse switch costs $500????


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## VWVan (Feb 17, 2000)

TwoLitreVW said:


> woah.
> 
> what car is it that a reverse switch costs $500????


04' grand cherokee. Other things are easy fixes except this stupid thing. It's inside the tranny. I just phoned one dealership. But still, even if I get it cheaper it's not something I can do myself.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

VWVan said:


> So my reverse lights don't work. Apparently there is a switch in the tranny that has to be cleaned/replaced. The part is $500. Plus whatever labour. I'm not paying $700-800 maybe more just to have reverse lights. So I thought I would get some white led lights, drill a hole in the reverse light and wire to 12v and a switch. Most cost effective way of doing it? Plus I can flip them on for tailgaters.:laugh:


You could save yourself a lot of work and just wire a switch to the reverse light wire 

I did this in my Mk2 (anyone who knows 020s knows how horrible the early switches are!)

it may not be legal for inspection purposes in your area, if they exist, though.


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## NeverEnoughCars (Aug 2, 2013)

VDub2625 said:


> You could save yourself a lot of work and just wire a switch to the reverse light wire
> 
> I did this in my Mk2 (anyone who knows 020s knows how horrible the early switches are!)
> 
> it may not be legal for inspection purposes in your area, if they exist, though.


Did the same thing to an old rabbit and a squareback.


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

What kind of test needs to be done to know if you have a sh*tty battery or a sh*tty alternator ??


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

skydive_007 said:


> What kind of test needs to be done to know if you have a sh*tty battery or a sh*tty alternator ??


You could just use a voltmeter touched to the battery terminals when the car is running and when the car is off. 

You can measure the volts and amperage of both the battery (engine off) and the alternator's output (engine on) that way.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

TwoLitreVW said:


> You can measure the volts and amperage of both the battery (engine off) and the alternator's output (engine on) that way.


I'm pretty sure the current test requires an ammeter to be in line with the circuit, which would fry most meter's fuses. At least that's what I learned in electronics shop in high school. Maybe there's a way tot est amps on car batteries and alternators.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

VDub2625 said:


> I'm pretty sure the current test requires an ammeter to be in line with the circuit,


With a normal Multimeter, this is correct. There are DC clamp ammeters that would work for higher currents (but they kinda suck at anything less than a couple amps.)


----------



## fizay (Oct 10, 2008)

how...how do you measure adequate space in your wheel well for max tire size, or for a small spacer? 

do you jack up the car with wheels on, and compress the wheel with another jack?


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

fizay said:


> how...how do you measure adequate space in your wheel well for max tire size, or for a small spacer?
> 
> do you jack up the car with wheels on, and compress the wheel with another jack?


Ohhh what a great question 

If you are a baller, and want to do it the most accurate way you remove the spring, remove the bump stops, and use a damper which is not charged.
Stroke the suspension with the wheel and take your measurements to the complete stroke of the suspension and then some. 

Typically, people don't have a discharged damper, so you can try it on a charged one.
The issue is the resistance from the suspension damper + bushings can start to lift the car.
I've seen people throw a car off the lift checking suspension clearances and such because they are not careful :thumbup:


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## Diamond Dave (Mar 24, 2001)

VWVan said:


> So my reverse lights don't work. Apparently there is a switch in the tranny that has to be cleaned/replaced. The part is $500.


Please post a screenshot from Rockauto.com showing this $500 reverse switch. Granted, I only have experience across Saabs, VWs, Miatas, Volvos, and Nissans, but those reverse switch prices were in the <$60 range. Now, don't get me started on the $0.25 plastic gear inside the Saab transaxle that requires disassembly to replace.



skydive_007 said:


> This was my first thought... I'll have to have someone look at it for me. I no longer have a garage to do my own work. Nor do I know how to test an alternator


In general, test the voltage regulator or replace the battery. Not all alternators ($400 part) require replacement to fix the voltage regulator (a ~$25 part). You can have your batter load tested at Autozone (yes, load testing requires an expensive tool that you don't have).


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

My brake rotors are starting to develop a lip around the outside. At what point would they need to be replaced? I don't think it was very pronounced but it did make the caliper slightly difficult to slide off the rotor because of the increased thickness


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

You'll need to measure the worn part of the rotor with a caliper then check with the manufacturer to see what is "within spec."


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

Why do F1 cars still have physical rear view mirrors?

With all this talk about replacing rear view mirrors with cameras on street cars, it's got me wondering how in the hell did Formula 1 (or any other heavily funded automotive racing, ie LeMans) not make this change already?

Better aerodynamics and probable weight savings area obvious strong advantages...


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## Sonderwunsch (Jul 7, 2016)

worth_fixing said:


> Why do F1 cars still have physical rear view mirrors?
> 
> With all this talk about replacing rear view mirrors with cameras on street cars, it's got me wondering how in the hell did Formula 1 (or any other heavily funded automotive racing, ie LeMans) not make this change already?
> 
> Better aerodynamics and probable weight savings area obvious strong advantages...


Because the rules say they have to.



> All cars must have two rear-view mirrors, whose size and location must comply with strict requirements. Drivers must demonstrate to the FIA the effectiveness of the mirrors by identifying special letter and number boards placed at various distances behind and to the sides of the car whilst seated in the cockpit.


F1 is far more concerned with downforce than aerodynamics.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

Sonderwunsch said:


> Because the rules say they have to.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That I understand, but I'm surprised they haven't evolved passed that.


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## Lucian1988 (Mar 25, 2009)

worth_fixing said:


> Why do F1 cars still have physical rear view mirrors?
> 
> With all this talk about replacing rear view mirrors with cameras on street cars, it's got me wondering how in the hell did Formula 1 (or any other heavily funded automotive racing, ie LeMans) not make this change already?
> 
> Better aerodynamics and probable weight savings area obvious strong advantages...


their driving space is already limited enough as it is, where would they mount a screen and how big should be it in order for them to see everything clearly? Plus 2 cameras and a screen adds weight as well. both mirrors weigh 320 grams or 11.3 ounces.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

Lucian1988 said:


> their driving space is already limited enough as it is, where would they mount a screen and how big should be it in order for them to see everything clearly? Plus 2 cameras and a screen adds weight as well. both mirrors weigh 320 grams or 11.3 ounces.


They make incredibly thin (and light) screens that could essentially be slightly thicker than paint, mounted in a flat surface of the cockpit.

Maybe you’re right and it’s a space requirement. It just seems like large protruding mirrors are more of a nuisance than anything else for the sole purpose of visibility; something that could easily be substituted for a far more efficient method, beneficial to both driver and dynamics.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Where would you put the additional screens?











I don't know that the use of tech in this particular instance makes anything better, easier, safer, or any less complicated than just a mirror.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

TwoLitreVW said:


> Where would you put the additional screens?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Put the screen in the current mirror location, duh :what:


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## tbvvw (Jun 19, 2002)

TwoLitreVW said:


> Where would you put the additional screens?


Small screen integrated inside the helmet visor, and able to turn on/off with a steering wheel button. 
Pinnacle of tech...


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## .:FrankRizzo:. (Jul 12, 2008)

Why do people buckle their rear seat belts with no one in them?


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## XClayX (Apr 30, 2005)

So since I took my drivers test in a car that didn't have technology at all. Do the kids now get to use back up cams and auto parks on these tests?


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## J2G (Aug 9, 2012)

.:FrankRizzo:. said:


> Why do people buckle their rear seat belts with no one in them?


This is just a guess - to reduce rattles? In my car the front passenger belt sometimes hits the B-pillar at the right angle that it makes a noise. Not nearly often or loud enough that I care, but it's something I noticed. 



XClayX said:


> So since I took my drivers test in a car that didn't have technology at all. Do the kids now get to use back up cams and auto parks on these tests?


I don't think using backup cameras are technically cheating really. But in Ontario using self-park technology is not allowed.


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## NeverEnoughCars (Aug 2, 2013)

XClayX said:


> So since I took my drivers test in a car that didn't have technology at all. Do the kids now get to use back up cams and auto parks on these tests?


Why would you need a backup cam or auto park feature to pass a driver's test? I never had to reverse on mine or even really park. I had backed into the spot when we got there before the test since I was in a full sized truck in a small lot. When we came back from the test the lot was full and she just had me park in the grass. The test was just driving with 2 stop signs and 1 traffic light. 2 lefts and 4 rights. Top speed 35mph. :laugh:


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## VarianceVQ (Jun 26, 2005)

Is modern Honda (specifically Civic Si) theft/vandalism still a valid concern these days? I know Civics made a recent top 10 list again for most stolen vehicles but the actual model years were for the late '90s and early 2000s models.

(Interesting side note: Replacing a Prius with a Civic Si sedan only raises my premium $25/mo.)


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## fizay (Oct 10, 2008)

Been watching roadkill on the motor trend channel, hot rodders use the term "late model" to refer to modern cars. Is this a bastardization of "later model" ? I don't understand the etymology at all.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Law enforcement uses "late model" as well. 

Question: Shop told me coilovers being installed on torsion beam need to be run as low as possible for the best suspension travel. Does that sound right?


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

thegave said:


> Law enforcement uses "late model" as well.
> 
> Question: Shop told me coilovers being installed on torsion beam need to be run as low as possible for the best suspension travel. Does that sound right?


sounds counterintuitive to me.

if it's set to run lower, there's less travel available.

what did they mean by "best suspension travel?"


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Maintaining suspension travel. Sounded counter-intuitive to me too but they spent a while explaining it and it almost made sense, but now it doesn't. I think it had something to do with the rear beam (on a Mk1). They put poly bushings on top of the tower and said that they were effectively pulling the shock up into the tower because the poly doesn't compress as much as rubber.


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## PerL (Jan 9, 2001)

Are the coilovers the type where you can adjust the height? Running them on low height will give you more suspension travel, as raising them will stiffen the springs and give you less travel.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Aren't all coilovers like that? These are KW V3s so ya I guess so. I thought compressing the springs makes them stiffer if they are progressive, which I think the V3 is.


----------



## modernday (Jul 7, 2016)

i wont ask a question but i will state that at another time when i was unfamiliar with engines, i thought that anything with ITBS was Carbed lol. now i understand the difference and the purpose they serve


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## Seabird (Feb 8, 2002)

I crossed the Continental Divide in a Chrysler 300 earlier this month. The downhill portion of the drive made the brakes vibrate something fierce. I was not driving any more aggressively than the rest of traffic, but trying to slow down into turns or just my descent really punished the brakes. The car was a rental, but if it were mine, is that something that would need to be looked at? Or is my driving style not as tame as I'd assumed?


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## Avus (Sep 20, 2000)

GTijoejoe said:


> Put the screen in the current mirror location, duh :what:


Tell me the advantages of putting 2 LCD screens "at the same place" instead of using mirrors for the same function (which is providing rear view).


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Seabird said:


> I crossed the Continental Divide in a Chrysler 300 earlier this month. The downhill portion of the drive made the brakes vibrate something fierce. I was not driving any more aggressively than the rest of traffic, but trying to slow down into turns or just my descent really punished the brakes. The car was a rental, but if it were mine, is that something that would need to be looked at? Or is my driving style not as tame as I'd assumed?


That would indicate a warped rotor. Brakes would have to be checked.

When im driving in the mountains i try to use some engine braking and stay off the brake petal as much as you can. A lot of people driving in the mountains go too fast and ride the brake petal all the way down the hill.


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## XClayX (Apr 30, 2005)

Is something as stupid as this covered under a new vehicle factory warranty? My 2016 CX-5 has this passenger side foot panel that keeps popping up like this. Give it a bit of time and its on the floor of the car. I can't seem to find the name of the part either. Pressing it in doesn't help, its warped or broken somehow. Car has 5500 miles on it.


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## Nealric (Feb 16, 2013)

wolfcastle said:


> That would indicate a warped rotor. Brakes would have to be checked.
> 
> When im driving in the mountains i try to use some engine braking and stay off the brake petal as much as you can. A lot of people driving in the mountains go too fast and ride the brake petal all the way down the hill.


Technically, the rotors are not warped in this situation. It's pad deposits on the rotors causing the braking surface to become uneven.


----------



## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

XClayX said:


> Is something as stupid as this covered under a new vehicle factory warranty? My 2016 CX-5 has this passenger side foot panel that keeps popping up like this. Give it a bit of time and its on the floor of the car. I can't seem to find the name of the part either. Pressing it in doesn't help, its warped or broken somehow. Car has 5500 miles on it.


Yes, it should be covered, and it's called a kick panel. :thumbup:


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

New question: I have a two-piece rotor on which the hardware keeps loosening. We checked the hub alone, the hat, and the rotor ring for runout and didn't take any significant measurements. Any thoughts for what else might be causing it? The fasteners have been completely replaced once and the Belleville washers that provide tension replaced a second time but the bolts ended up loose on the hat within a couple of days.


----------



## Seabird (Feb 8, 2002)

Nealric/wolfcastle- :beer:


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## Harpoon (Jan 5, 2008)

Nealric said:


> Technically, the rotors are not warped in this situation. It's pad deposits on the rotors causing the braking surface to become uneven.


Can somebody explain this to me? I know what warping is, and how in street applications the rotor can't get hot enough to actually cause warping, but how do uneven pad deposits occur? I seem to have this issue with my Accord right now.


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## NeverEnoughCars (Aug 2, 2013)

Harpoon said:


> Can somebody explain this to me? I know what warping is, and how in street applications the rotor can't get hot enough to actually cause warping, but how do uneven pad deposits occur? I seem to have this issue with my Accord right now.


Holding the brakes after a hard or moderate stop from highway speeds can/will leave deposits on the rotor. 
Or just higher speeds in general.


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

thegave said:


> Law enforcement uses "late model" as well.
> 
> Question: Shop told me coilovers being installed on torsion beam need to be run as low as possible for the best suspension travel. Does that sound right?



OK I misunderstood what they were saying. The shop wanted to maintain rebound travel, which resulted in the car sitting much lower than desired.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

NeverEnoughCars said:


> Holding the brakes after a hard or moderate stop from highway speeds can/will leave deposits on the rotor.
> Or just higher speeds in general.


I thought this was what "warping" actually is. Just uneven deposits. 

Either way, after hard stops, or when sitting at lights, I tend to lift off the brakes to let them 'off gas' so deposits don't fuse to the surface of the rotor due to trapped heat. No idea if this is effective, but just something I was told was good practice.


----------



## Nealric (Feb 16, 2013)

Harpoon said:


> Can somebody explain this to me? I know what warping is, and how in street applications the rotor can't get hot enough to actually cause warping, but how do uneven pad deposits occur? I seem to have this issue with my Accord right now.


I don't think it's ever possible to physically warp the rotors unless there's some sort of casting defect. Your brake fluid is going to boil to the point your brakes are gone long before the rotor gets hot enough to deform. Even trackday fluid boils at around 600F. Cast Iron melts at over 2,000F. Granted, your pads will get hotter than the fluid, but there's going to be enough transfer that getting hot enough to deform the rotor just isn't going to happen. 

Pad deposits can happen when hot pads get left depressed in one location on the rotor. For example, if you sit at the light with the brakes depressed after coming down a long steep hill where you rode the brakes down.


----------



## tyintegra (Sep 14, 2010)

New Question: If my car AWD, why do I need all of the other stability/traction control nannies? Isn't the point of having AWD (as opposed to 4 wheel drive where all 4 tires turn at the same speed regardless of whether one is slipping or not) for the system to automatically change the amount of power that goes to each wheel? Isn't this also what the stability and traction control does?


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## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

AWD, Traction control, and stability control are three entirely different systems, that all compliment each other.
/
First, assume you have strictly an AWD car with nothing else. They use an open differential type (vicsious coupling? Not sure what the proper term is) between front and rear, and side to side. Lets say one tire is on ice, the other three are on pavement. If you floor it, there is a good chance that even with AWD, the single tire on ice will just spin spin as fast as it possibly can.

Now same situation, add traction control. Floor it. Some cars will just cut engine speed when it detects slip, letting the one tire try to claw its way to regain traction. Other TC systems will brake individual wheels, which sends power elsewhere (ie one of the tire with grip), allowing you to move forward.

Stability control builds on top of that. Imagine taking a curve to fast and you start sliding, or rotating out of control. The stability control will brake individual wheels to bring the car back to center and keep you pointed in the intended direction.

This is an overly simplistic explanation, not valid for all cars, and subject to change :laugh: but its the best explanation I can give. AWD only means there is the possibility of getting power to at least one of the four tires. It does not mean all four tires will have power when you want them too.


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## tyintegra (Sep 14, 2010)

VR6JH said:


> AWD, Traction control, and stability control are three entirely different systems, that all compliment each other.
> /
> First, assume you have strictly an AWD car with nothing else. They use an open differential type (vicsious coupling? Not sure what the proper term is) between front and rear, and side to side. Lets say one tire is on ice, the other three are on pavement. If you floor it, there is a good chance that even with AWD, the single tire on ice will just spin spin as fast as it possibly can.
> 
> ...


Thank you very much for your explanation.

As for the last sentence "AWD only means there is the possibility of getting power to at least one of the four tires. It does not mean all four tires will have power when you want them too." My understanding was that this was the difference between 4 wheel drive and AWD, where 4 wheel drive means all 4 wheels turn but the power to each wheel is the same regardless of whether or not a tire is slipping or not and AWD meant that the power could be shifted from a slipping wheel to one with traction.


----------



## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

MrMook said:


> I thought this was what "warping" actually is. Just uneven deposits.
> 
> Either way, after hard stops, or when sitting at lights, I tend to lift off the brakes to let them 'off gas' so deposits don't fuse to the surface of the rotor due to trapped heat. No idea if this is effective, but just something I was told was good practice.


I do it, too, and have never had pedal vibration on any vehicle -- even econoboxes with tiny rotors driven enthusiastically.


----------



## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

tyintegra said:


> Thank you very much for your explanation.
> 
> As for the last sentence "AWD only means there is the possibility of getting power to at least one of the four tires. It does not mean all four tires will have power when you want them too." My understanding was that this was the difference between 4 wheel drive and AWD, where 4 wheel drive means all 4 wheels turn but the power to each wheel is the same regardless of whether or not a tire is slipping or not and AWD meant that the power could be shifted from a slipping wheel to one with traction.


Historically, 4WD has referred to "truck" systems with a gear- or chain-driven transfer case (usually with a low-range) and a fixed 50:50 ratio from front to rear. AWD is generally thought of as a more car-based system with a viscous or clutch-pack based system. The power split varies on AWD systems from a default 50:50 on manual transmission Subarus and other performance vehicles to cars that are FWD until slippage is detected, then send power rearward with a lurch.

All that said, it does not mean that the "fixed" ratio on a 4WD vehicle guarantees the same power to each wheel. On a truck with open differentials, it is possible to get stuck on wet grass or if two wheels are in the air since the power will go to the ones with no traction. Many trucks have rear lockers which helps tremendously, but if both rear wheels are in mud and you have one front tire in the air, you still ain't goin' anywhere.

That is why hardcore vehicles like G-Wagens and Land Cruisers have locking differentials. You can lock the rear (forces one wheel to turn the same speed as the one on the other side of the axle), the front (same) and sometimes even the center differential (forces front and rear to turn at the same rate).. So if three wheels are in the air, they will all turn at the same rate and you will be able to crawl forward. But having the diffs locked is only for really tough going on slippery ground where the tires can slide. You can't drive on pavement with them locked because any turns will cause driveline binding (skipping/jumping tires) since the tires cannot turn at different rates.


----------



## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

tyintegra said:


> Thank you very much for your explanation.
> 
> As for the last sentence "AWD only means there is the possibility of getting power to at least one of the four tires. It does not mean all four tires will have power when you want them too." My understanding was that this was the difference between 4 wheel drive and AWD, where 4 wheel drive means all 4 wheels turn but the power to each wheel is the same regardless of whether or not a tire is slipping or not and AWD meant that the power could be shifted from a slipping wheel to one with traction.


Again, this will be a generic explanation but hopefully I can convey the point. There are essentially 3 "differentials" in both a 4wd and an Awd system, allowing a difference in speed between either "side". There is the front and rear diff, between the wheels, and a "center differential".

In a 4wd system, the transfer case acts as the center diff, splitting power between the front and rear exactly 50/50. Regardless of power/traction etc the front and rear drive shafts are essentially locked together when the transfer case is engaged. If both front and rear differentials are open, you will get, at the very lease, one front and one rear tire spinning. But because of turning corners and such, having the front and rear locked together on dry pavement will cause binding, which is why 4wd is only to be used in low traction situations.

In an AWD system, the "center diff" acts as an open diff. So the idea of an open differential between sides is now transferred to front and rear. This is where traction control comes in. All four wheels are always "engaged" but not necessarily getting power. A good traction control system on an AWD will allow the car to brake individual wheels to allow the ones with traction to pull the vehicle. Its not so much that it sends power where needed, its that it takes power where it isnt needed.

Does that sort of make sense? In snow or ice, an AWD system with a good TC system will perform better than a 4wd with open differentials.


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## tyintegra (Sep 14, 2010)

VR6JH said:


> Again, this will be a generic explanation but hopefully I can convey the point. There are essentially 3 "differentials" in both a 4wd and an Awd system, allowing a difference in speed between either "side". There is the front and rear diff, between the wheels, and a "center differential".
> 
> In a 4wd system, the transfer case acts as the center diff, splitting power between the front and rear exactly 50/50. Regardless of power/traction etc the front and rear drive shafts are essentially locked together when the transfer case is engaged. If both front and rear differentials are open, you will get, at the very lease, one front and one rear tire spinning. But because of turning corners and such, having the front and rear locked together on dry pavement will cause binding, which is why 4wd is only to be used in low traction situations.
> 
> ...


I think I am starting to get it....

So, can someone explain what would happen (what wheels would be losing grip and where would the power be sent) in low grip situation with an AWD car that has traction control and one that doesn't? How would this differ with a stability control system?


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## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jkiv-bWbLIo

The crv is awd, but the traction control system doesn't do a god job of modulating power, so it's stuck. The food is awd as well (ignore the 4wd title) and it's TC system sends power where needed.


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## tyintegra (Sep 14, 2010)

VR6JH said:


> https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jkiv-bWbLIo
> 
> The crv is awd, but the traction control system doesn't do a god job of modulating power, so it's stuck. The food is awd as well (ignore the 4wd title) and it's TC system sends power where needed.


Very interesting, thank you


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## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

tyintegra said:


> Very interesting, thank you


Havent actually watched this video but this guy usually does a great job of explaining things. The key thing to remember is not all AWD systems are created equal. 

All true 4x4's share the same basic concept, front and rear diff and a center transfer case, all all usually operate pretty similarly. But AWD systems can vary in both design and effectiveness pretty greatly between manufacturers. Hope we helped!

Edit:


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

*FV-QR*

Do Porsche boxster owners/sellers not understand that they are selling a boxster? not a 356, not a 930, not a 964, not a singer. Why do they think their low mile 2002 boxster is worth $22k? :banghead:


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

A.Wilder said:


> Do Porsche boxster owners/sellers not understand that they are selling a boxster? not a 356, not a 930, not a 964, not a singer. Why do they think their low mile 2002 boxster is worth $22k? :banghead:


Loooool. :facepalm:


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## CaleDeRoo (Jul 30, 2011)

When I upped my CR from 9.5:1 to 11:1 should I have upped the gap in my plugs and ran a cooler thermostat? I've read people doing those with explanation as to why but not enough concrete evidence for me to pull my plugs out and do so.


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## DonL (Feb 28, 1999)

Nealric said:


> I don't think it's ever possible to physically warp the rotors unless there's some sort of casting defect. Your brake fluid is going to boil to the point your brakes are gone long before the rotor gets hot enough to deform. Even trackday fluid boils at around 600F. Cast Iron melts at over 2,000F. Granted, your pads will get hotter than the fluid, but there's going to be enough transfer that getting hot enough to deform the rotor just isn't going to happen.
> 
> Pad deposits can happen when hot pads get left depressed in one location on the rotor. For example, if you sit at the light with the brakes depressed after coming down a long steep hill where you rode the brakes down.


Agreed. Personally, I think that rotors actually warping would require a highly unusual set of circumstances and conditions to pull off. I'm not saying it's not possible, but highly unlikely. More likely, the driver is experiencing pad deposits and rotor thickness variation, one of the reasons of which can be attributed to pad deposits. Here's some reading regarding "warped" rotors. 

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths 

http://www.autotrackdaymonthly.com/...nal-word-on-brake-vibration-and-warped-rotors 

http://www.cleanmpg.com/community/index.php?threads/13246/


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## NashGTI (Mar 8, 2006)

Nealric said:


> I don't think it's ever possible to physically warp the rotors unless there's some sort of casting defect. Your brake fluid is going to boil to the point your brakes are gone long before the rotor gets hot enough to deform. Even trackday fluid boils at around 600F. Cast Iron melts at over 2,000F. Granted, your pads will get hotter than the fluid, but there's going to be enough transfer that getting hot enough to deform the rotor just isn't going to happen.
> 
> Pad deposits can happen when hot pads get left depressed in one location on the rotor. For example, if you sit at the light with the brakes depressed after coming down a long steep hill where you rode the brakes down.


You don't have to melt metal into a liquid in order to deform it, all you need are disparate temperatures. Anything that causes a hot brake rotor to cool at different rates can cause warping.


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## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

What's a good repository to learn about cars? how they work, etc. I've been reading some roadkill stuff and they talk about axle ratios and I realized i just don't know enough about cars


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## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

tyintegra said:


> I think I am starting to get it....
> 
> So, can someone explain what would happen (what wheels would be losing grip and where would the power be sent) in low grip situation with an AWD car that has traction control and one that doesn't? How would this differ with a stability control system?


Stability control systems work like this: They use various sensors (wheel speeds, steering angle, yaw sensors, etc) to figure which way the car is going and if the front is going in a different direction than the rear. The Stability Control system then compares that information with which way the steering wheel is point. The stability control system uses your steering wheel angle as 'truth' (which way you want the car to go), and then brakes individual wheels to keep the car going 'straight' (as determined by the steering wheel angle).

If you try to drift your car with the stability control on, the car will sense that the rear wheels are going around a wider radius than the front tires and brake the rear outside to bring the car back 'straight'. If you have a car and see-saw the steering wheel to get around a sudden object in the road, the stability control system will do the same thing - it'll detect the back and the front are doing different things and it will brake the appropriate wheels to get the car 'stable' again. 

In conclusion, stability control systems have near-zero to do with which wheels are driven.


----------



## dunkadunkle (Jan 15, 2008)

what is the best option for a winter beater for 3k or less?

requirements are...
prefer suv over pickup/awd car
prefer american made but not necessary
prefer 4 doors
cheap to maintain
will only be used about 3k miles a year 

currently looking at:
99-05 blazer/jimmy/bravada
1st gen durango
jeep gc/cherokee
mitsubishi montero

any other suggestions?


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## tyintegra (Sep 14, 2010)

Smigelski said:


> Stability control systems work like this: They use various sensors (wheel speeds, steering angle, yaw sensors, etc) to figure which way the car is going and if the front is going in a different direction than the rear. The Stability Control system then compares that information with which way the steering wheel is point. The stability control system uses your steering wheel angle as 'truth' (which way you want the car to go), and then brakes individual wheels to keep the car going 'straight' (as determined by the steering wheel angle).
> 
> If you try to drift your car with the stability control on, the car will sense that the rear wheels are going around a wider radius than the front tires and brake the rear outside to bring the car back 'straight'. If you have a car and see-saw the steering wheel to get around a sudden object in the road, the stability control system will do the same thing - it'll detect the back and the front are doing different things and it will brake the appropriate wheels to get the car 'stable' again.
> 
> In conclusion, stability control systems have near-zero to do with which wheels are driven.


This is great! thank you


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

adrew said:


> That is why hardcore vehicles like G-Wagens and Land Cruisers have locking differentials. You can lock the rear (forces one wheel to turn the same speed as the one on the other side of the axle), the front (same) and* sometimes even the center differential (forces front and rear to turn at the same rate)*.. So if three wheels are in the air, they will all turn at the same rate and you will be able to crawl forward. But having the diffs locked is only for really tough going on slippery ground where the tires can slide. You can't drive on pavement with them locked because any turns will cause driveline binding (skipping/jumping tires) since the tires cannot turn at different rates.


Don't pretty much all 4WD vehicles have locking transfer cases, which is why you can't use 4WD on bare pavement?.




VR6JH said:


> Again, this will be a generic explanation but hopefully I can convey the point. There are essentially 3 "differentials" in both a 4wd and an Awd system, allowing a difference in speed between either "side". There is the front and rear diff, between the wheels, and a "center differential".
> 
> In a 4wd system, the transfer case acts as the center diff, splitting power between the front and rear exactly 50/50. Regardless of power/traction etc *the front and rear drive shafts are essentially locked together when the transfer case is engaged.* If both front and rear differentials are open, you will get, at the very lease, one front and one rear tire spinning. But because of turning corners and such, having the front and rear locked together on dry pavement will cause binding, which is why 4wd is only to be used in low traction situations.
> 
> ...


Exactly. 




dunkadunkle said:


> what is the best option for a winter beater for 3k or less?
> 
> requirements are...
> prefer suv over pickup/awd car
> ...


You know you want to. 4.0L and AW4 is a good combo, as much as I like manuals. '98 and '99 are the best model years, IMO.


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## dunkadunkle (Jan 15, 2008)

IJM said:


> You know you want to. 4.0L and AW4 is a good combo, as much as I like manuals. '98 and '99 are the best model years, IMO.


thanks. i like those body cherokee's. anything specific to look for/avoid? i prefer an auto in case the gf needs to drive it as well.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

"Part-time" 4WD has a transfer case but there is no center differential so you can only use that type of system on dirt or when it is snowy because you will get driveline binding and hopping in turns since the tires can't slip. (But the net effect is that it behaves like a having a locked center diff.) This is like Jeep Command-Trac or the system on lots of basic Japanese trucks.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-wheel_drive#Part-time

"Full-time" 4WD systems do have a center differential so you can use it all the time and on dry pavement like its name implies. They work kind of like all-wheel-drive most of the time but you can lock the center differential because they would be worthless in tough conditions. This is like Jeep Quadra-Trac or what you see on serious off-roaders like Land Cruisers, Monteros, etc.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-wheel_drive#Center_differential_with_mechanical_lock


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

dunkadunkle said:


> thanks. i like those body cherokee's. anything specific to look for/avoid? i prefer an auto in case the gf needs to drive it as well.


Rust is a big one. Mine is pretty rust free, but I've heard you should look around the suspension attachment points and under the carpet, which easier said than done. Maintenance records would be good. See if it's leaking oil. If so, it's probably from the oil filter adapter or valve cover gasket and not the rear main seal. Easy fixes.


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## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

dunkadunkle said:


> thanks. i like those body cherokee's. anything specific to look for/avoid? i prefer an auto in case the gf needs to drive it as well.


Exhaust manifolds. They crack. All of them.


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## dunkadunkle (Jan 15, 2008)

IJM said:


> Rust is a big one. Mine is pretty rust free, but I've heard you should look around the suspension attachment points and under the carpet, which easier said than done. Maintenance records would be good. See if it's leaking oil. If so, it's probably from the oil filter adapter or valve cover gasket and not the rear main seal. Easy fixes.





VR6JH said:


> Exhaust manifolds. They crack. All of them.


i found one near me. 1999 4.0 4 door with 165k on it.

http://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/5730313664.html

asking 1900. what do you guys think by the ad if its worth 1900 or most i should pay? i had a friend email him offering 1k cash and he responded "come back with a better offer"

really not trying to lowball, just dont want to over pay

thx for any and all help:wave:


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

What are the two holes in the trunk of the BMW CSL Group 2 cars? These were front-engine, so it's not any sort of intake. My only guess is two fuel fillers?


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## PerL (Jan 9, 2001)

MrMook said:


> What are the two holes in the trunk of the BMW CSL Group 2 cars? These were front-engine, so it's not any sort of intake. My only guess is two fuel fillers?


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Awesome. Thanks!
Besides easy access from either side, or ability to double-pour for quicker fueling times, is there some other advantage? I've never seen this on any other prepared cars.


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

VR6JH said:


> Exhaust manifolds. They crack. All of them.


Mine hasn't (yet) cracked, so knock on wood. If (when) it does, I'll probably upgrade to a better header and do a cat-back while I'm at it. The (presumably) factory muffler is quite rusted, but it doesn't leak yet. I'm sure it flows like crap though. 



dunkadunkle said:


> i found one near me. 1999 4.0 4 door with 165k on it.
> 
> http://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/5730313664.html
> 
> ...


If it were me I'd steer clear of one with body damage like that and spend a few more bucks on a clean one.


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## mx5er (Apr 28, 2001)

OK, autonomous braking. How does that work with Manuel transmission?  So if the system automatically stops the car, the engine just stalls if the driver doesn't react fast enough and de-clutch? 

I understand in the U.S., the only car available with that feature I can think of is the Mini. I configured one with Manuel and I was able to select the option. From their description, it will engage the brakes. But no mention of completely stopping the car though. Hmmm...

Of course Subaru's Eyesight is available on models like the Crosstrek. But Eyesight is not available on the base models with Manuel.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

mx5er said:


> OK, autonomous braking. How does that work with Manuel transmission?  So if the system automatically stops the car, the engine just stalls if the driver doesn't react fast enough and de-clutch?
> 
> I understand in the U.S., the only car available with that feature I can think of is the Mini. I configured one with Manuel and I was able to select the option. From their description, it will engage the brakes. But no mention of completely stopping the car though. Hmmm...
> 
> Of course Subaru's Eyesight is available on models like the Crosstrek. But Eyesight is not available on the base models with Manuel.



I could not imagine autonomous braking activating to a complete stop unless it was an emergency, collision braking system.
Either way, it can literally be tuned anyway an automaker wishes.


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## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

We all know there are reasons for choosing one brand of gas station over another. But what about buying diesel fuel, are there the same differences (additives etc)? Or are they pretty much all the same?


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

cityjohn said:


> We all know there are reasons for choosing one brand of gas station over another. But what about buying diesel fuel, are there the same differences (additives etc)? Or are they pretty much all the same?


Almost all ULSD is the same. The only difference you may find is a slightly higher Cetane rating in certain "Premium" Diesel fuels, or different percentages of BioDiesel mixed in.

I buy almost exclusively the cheapest diesel I can find. In many cases, that will also mean the station has high turnover, because everyone loves to save money. The guy selling his ULSD for $2.89 when it can be had 1/2 mile away for $2.10 is not going to be selling much of it.


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

Aside from:

Losing door speakers
Sorting out door switch (for dome lights; idiot lights)
Dust
Noise
Lack of security
Can't be in the rain

What other things would I be facing by going to tube doors on my FJ?


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

TooFitToQuit said:


> Aside from:
> 
> Losing door speakers
> Sorting out door switch (for dome lights; idiot lights)
> ...


Phone falling out of your pocket on the highway?

I imagine by choosing tube doors, you're ok with losing a lot of daily-driver conveniences for the sake of either looks, or functionality.


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## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

Surf Green said:


> Almost all ULSD is the same. The only difference you may find is a slightly higher Cetane rating in certain "Premium" Diesel fuels, or different percentages of BioDiesel mixed in.
> 
> I buy almost exclusively the cheapest diesel I can find. In many cases, that will also mean the station has high turnover, because everyone loves to save money. The guy selling his ULSD for $2.89 when it can be had 1/2 mile away for $2.10 is not going to be selling much of it.


:thumbup: thanks!


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

It seemed like in the '80s and '90s cars were always having CV joint/axle problems at 80-100k miles. But it seems significantly less common now -- due to better rubber that doesn't crack?


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Why does the temperature of air entering a turbo matter if the turbo is just going to compress and heat the air anyway? Is denser air more compressible?


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

Quite a few reasons. 
Denser air in = denser air out. Makes sense, right? 
Also, an intercooler can only transfer so much heat out to the atmosphere. The cooler the air entering the intercooler (because cooler inlet air = cooler outlet air), the cooler the air exiting the intercooler will be. 

Really, it's all just simple thermodynamics.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

cuppie said:


> Quite a few reasons.
> Denser air in = denser air out. Makes sense, right?
> Also, an intercooler can only transfer so much heat out to the atmosphere. The cooler the air entering the intercooler (because cooler inlet air = cooler outlet air), the cooler the air exiting the intercooler will be.
> 
> Really, it's all just simple thermodynamics.


I'm going to add on to this with some simple technical jargon 

A) You want to reduce the intake temperatures into the engine cylinders
B) High cylinder temperatures at the compression stroke increases the risk for knock and optimal ignition/combustion/power

Physics of a compressor in general and engines.
Engines make more power with more mass flow (inefficiencies aside). Mass being fuel + air. 
Seeing that emissions and power blah blah we target a similar fuel ratio. So if the air mass goes up, so does the fuel mass = more power.

Denser air has more mass, simple
A compressor must abide by gas laws and physics of the fluids, it has a pressure ratio.
From your starting pressure and temperature, keeping your pressure ratio the same (or final boost pressure), your final temperature will be proportional.
So if you start with hot air, the air will get hotter after the compressor than if you started with colder air.

Then what ^^^ said about intercoolers. If a cooler can only change temp in vs temp out by 20 degrees at a given state, colder in = colder out.

General understanding


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## 88c900t (Jul 7, 2014)

How do you get rid of "wet dog" smell in an interior? That's from part rainwater (sunroof drains) and part me leaving work sweaty. 


What suspension components should I consider replacing to improve steering feel and reduce slop? (1996 Miata, 153K)


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

88c900t said:


> How do you get rid of "wet dog" smell in an interior? That's from part rainwater (sunroof drains) and part me leaving work sweaty.
> 
> 
> What suspension components should I consider replacing to improve steering feel and reduce slop? (1996 Miata, 153K)


I would check your control arm bushings, strut mounts, ball joints, and tie rod ends.

http://www.1aauto.com/1990-97-mazda...BbBgrGmI_MfJyreGDapOXdzrh8HNoMYa94aArIe8P8HAQ


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## Neezy13 (Jun 1, 2011)

88c900t said:


> How do you get rid of "wet dog" smell in an interior? That's from part rainwater (sunroof drains) and part me leaving work sweaty.
> 
> 
> What suspension components should I consider replacing to improve steering feel and reduce slop? (1996 Miata, 153K)


I left my windows down while working on my car and a rain storm came through and soaked my interior pretty good. What I did to get the smell out was use damprid boat and rv moisture absorber line this but smaller: 
https://www.walmart.com/ip/DampRid-RV-and-Boat-Moisture-Absorber/16627481

That thing pulled a ton of moisture out of my carpet and seats. Then I used some carpet fresh and a large odor absorbing air freshener and the smell is gone. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Thanks for the thermodynamics lesson. Next q:

What's the difference between adding a bottle of octane booster from Napa/o Reilly's versus adding 100oct to the tank? How much of one equals the other and which would be more cost-effective? The main goal would be knock prevention under high heat/load, not necessarily added power


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

The results will vary. You'd have to read the bottle of the additive you select to see how many gallons it treats, and to what degree because they're not all created equal. . Then you can do the math.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

Why do the headlights of parked Toyotas reflect an iridescent purple-green when you drive past them at night? (parked on the other side of the street facing you)


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

*FV-QR*

never noticed that.


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

Ok so my clutch makes a clunking noise about 2-3 times during slow travel (like if I am taking off and need to slip it a bit). I haven't really done any significant diagnosis to see if it's something stupid like a switch or some other plastic piece, but it seems loud enough to be mechanical and I feel it through the pedal. What *could* this be. It only has about 120k km on the clock and it still grabs well and doesn't slip in gear.


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## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

thegave said:


> Thanks for the thermodynamics lesson. Next q:
> 
> What's the difference between adding a bottle of octane booster from Napa/o Reilly's versus adding 100oct to the tank? How much of one equals the other and which would be more cost-effective? The main goal would be knock prevention under high heat/load, not necessarily added power


Do they work? Yes(ish). Say you buy whaatever booster, advertises "up to 10 points" for 6.99. You just spent $6.99 on something that MIGHT raise it from 87.0 octane to 88.0 octane. Times 4 bottles to get to 91 octane. That extra 30 cents a gallon for premium is looking pretty cheap now huh?

Mostly snake oil. It works, but not really.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

No I'm thinking about adding something to 91 for a track day just to make sure my engine doesn't melt. 

CA tops out at 91 except at racetracks which sell overpriced 100. And possibly 93. 

My concern I guess is how honest/transparent the bottled stuff is about how much it bumps, if at all.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

thegave said:


> No I'm thinking about adding something to 91 for a track day just to make sure my engine doesn't melt.




what kind of car is it?

if there's a knock sensor, you'll be fine. it'll pull timing.


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## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

thegave said:


> No I'm thinking about adding something to 91 for a track day just to make sure my engine doesn't melt.
> 
> CA tops out at 91 except at racetracks which sell overpriced 100. And possibly 93.
> 
> My concern I guess is how honest/transparent the bottled stuff is about how much it bumps, if at all.


Well, as mentioned, when the bottle says 'Up to 10 Points' boost, a 'point' is a tenth of an octane. For instance, a 5 point boost would raise the octane level from 91 to 91.5. 

Obviously, it also only works for a certain amount of fuel (which is stated on the bottle: "For up to a 15 gallon tank").

I conclusion, it would probably be cheaper to have 3/4 of a tank of 91, fill the rest up with 100 to get 93 octane in your tank than it would be to buy four or five of the octane booster bottles. 

(Then again, the last time I was at Lime Rock, a gallon of 93 was ~$6)


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

thegave said:


> No I'm thinking about adding something to 91 for a track day just to make sure my engine doesn't melt.
> 
> CA tops out at 91 except at racetracks which sell overpriced 100. And possibly 93.
> 
> My concern I guess is how honest/transparent the bottled stuff is about how much it bumps, if at all.


Personally I'd go with the 100oct/gal fuel


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

It's a mk1 turbo on CIS. No knock sensor. 

I'll have to swing by o Reilly's and see what the bottles say but sounds like getting race gas at the track is probably the most economical


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Ok the only additives that even indicate how much they boost are Royal Purple (up to 30 pts) and NOS (up to 31 pts), both intended to treat 15-25 gallons. Since the Mk1 tank is way less than 15 gal I think it's safe to assume I'll get at least the advertised 30 pt/3 octane boost. One bottle is like $11.99 which is about one gallon of 100? If that?

How do you calculate combined octane? Just take an average based on volume?

Also the NOS stuff says to mix with _at least_ 15 gal of fuel. Any idea why?


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Saw this photo in another thread.

Curious to know if jamming what appear to be cone filters into a headlight shroud would would reduce their effectiveness. From my understanding, cone filters, like the K&N's below, draw air from the outside as well as the inside of the cone, offering a much larger filter area, resulting in increased air flow. This setup seems like an attempt at a ram-style cold air intake, but the draw from the outer surface of the cone seems limited or obstructed. Thoughts?


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

MrMook said:


> Curious to know if jamming what appear to be cone filters into a headlight shroud would would reduce their effectiveness. From my understanding, cone filters, like the K&N's below, draw air from the outside as well as the inside of the cone, offering a much larger filter area, resulting in increased air flow. This setup seems like an attempt at a ram-style cold air intake, but the draw from the outer surface of the cone seems limited or obstructed. Thoughts?


Very much agree with you. It's done for looks in this case. A ram air would take an as-large-as-possible surface area and funnel it into the engine with as little turbulence as possible.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

88c900t said:


> How do you get rid of "wet dog" smell in an interior? That's from part rainwater (sunroof drains) and part me leaving work sweaty.
> 
> 
> What suspension components should I consider replacing to improve steering feel and reduce slop? (1996 Miata, 153K)


Seems like if the hole were a little bigger or the cone diameter a little smaller, or the filter pushed back a bit, with a shield/air dam around it, it would function perfect.


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## XClayX (Apr 30, 2005)

Are performance numbers (0-60 times etc) on Stock vehicles performed with a default setup of the car? I.e. No sport mode, traction control on etc. I'm wondering because my CX5 feels MUCH different when sport mode is on. Normal mode its lethargic to do everything.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

XClayX said:


> Are performance numbers (0-60 times etc) on Stock vehicles performed with a default setup of the car? I.e. No sport mode, traction control on etc. I'm wondering because my CX5 feels MUCH different when sport mode is on. Normal mode its lethargic to do everything.


Car and Driver tries a multitude of things to extract the best 0-60 time they can, including experimenting with disabling traction aids, clutch drops, brake stands, and various shift points on both automatic and manuel vehicles.
This would almost certainly mean they try different transmission modes as well.


----------



## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Surf Green said:


> Car and Driver tries a multitude of things to extract the best 0-60 time they can, including experimenting with disabling traction aids, clutch drops, brake stands, and various shift points on both automatic and manuel vehicles.
> This would almost certainly mean they try different transmission modes as well.


And their 5-60 test just floors it from a 5MPH roll so you can get a sense of how the car accelerates without and aggressive launch. Torquey/flexible engines have very little difference; peaky/laggy ones might be a second or more slower.


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## PerL (Jan 9, 2001)

My turn to ask a stupid question. I have noticed that many aluminium wheels have small holes between the lug holes. Are they meant for aligning the drill tool, or is it something different? I can't see any other reason for these. Very typical of Mercedes-Benz or BMW wheels, many others have them too


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## Harpoon (Jan 5, 2008)

The small holes between the bolt pattern is often that way on aftermarket performance wheels for lightening purposes. That area doesn't carry any structural importance so why not drill holes to eliminate some material/weight when every little bit counts. Or in an OEM application it of course could also boil down to styling. Perhaps a designer wants to break up a large amount of blank space. But really with a BMW or Merc I would assume the weight aspect comes into play.


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## Mightion (Mar 19, 2008)

Regarding AdBlue/DEF injected into the exhaust flow of Diesel engines....

...How does injecting something into the exhaust stream affect fuel economy or performance, positively or negatively?


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## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

Mightion said:


> Regarding AdBlue/DEF injected into the exhaust flow of Diesel engines....
> 
> ...How does injecting something into the exhaust stream affect fuel economy or performance, positively or negatively?


Def is strictly emissions. Reducing NOx and emissions. Has nothing to do with adding economy and performance. Having to add additional filters/systems etc as well as having to meet current Tier regulations is where economy and performance are affected.


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

Harpoon said:


> The small holes between the bolt pattern is often that way on aftermarket performance wheels for lightening purposes. That area doesn't carry any structural importance so why not drill holes to eliminate some material/weight when every little bit counts. Or in an OEM application it of course could also boil down to styling. Perhaps a designer wants to break up a large amount of blank space. But really with a BMW or Merc I would assume the weight aspect comes into play.


These cars also usually have lug bolts instead of studs. I wouldn't be surprised if they were for lining up the wheel.


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

Harpoon said:


> The small holes between the bolt pattern is often that way on aftermarket performance wheels for lightening purposes. That area doesn't carry any structural importance so why not drill holes to eliminate some material/weight when every little bit counts. Or in an OEM application it of course could also boil down to styling. Perhaps a designer wants to break up a large amount of blank space. But really with a BMW or Merc I would assume the weight aspect comes into play.





saron81 said:


> These cars also usually have lug bolts instead of studs. I wouldn't be surprised if they were for lining up the wheel.


 Both are incorrect (at least, when it comes to OE German wheels.) 
They're for wheel alignments. Instead of a 'rim clamp' mount (where the mount sits on the edge of the wheel) for the sensors or targets, the mount has 5 pins that go thru those holes. That way, the mount is sitting against the brake rotor (and, therefore, is sitting right on the wheel hub.) 
Eliminates the need to do a runout compensation when you're setting up an alignment. Faster, and more accurate.


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## nobbyv (May 18, 2001)

This one is actually road construction related. They're adding lanes on a highway I commute on everyday. I see a bunch of these large rectangular metal "box things". They have solid metal tops and bottoms (or maybe they are the sides, depending on how the things are used/placed?), with the sides/ends open (crossbeams of some kind at the corners hold them together). I've seen them in various sizes, but I'd say they're generally at least 5' across, and 10-15' long. 

What are these things for? Are they temporary bridges of some kind to allow heavy equipment across? Permanent structures that get "buried" under roadways? I did see an excavator digging "inside" one of these the other day. Are they somehow used to keep dirt/material from falling in a deep trench that's being dug? 

Wish I could find a pic to post, but if knew what to search for I'd just as easily find out what they are. Anyone know what I'm talking about? Don't make me break out the MSPaint...


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## georgekelp (Aug 15, 2005)

nobbyv said:


> This one is actually road construction related. They're adding lanes on a highway I commute on everyday. I see a bunch of these large rectangular metal "box things". They have solid metal tops and bottoms (or maybe they are the sides, depending on how the things are used/placed?), with the sides/ends open (crossbeams of some kind at the corners hold them together). I've seen them in various sizes, but I'd say they're generally at least 5' across, and 10-15' long.
> 
> What are these things for? Are they temporary bridges of some kind to allow heavy equipment across? Permanent structures that get "buried" under roadways? I did see an excavator digging "inside" one of these the other day. Are they somehow used to keep dirt/material from falling in a deep trench that's being dug?
> 
> Wish I could find a pic to post, but if knew what to search for I'd just as easily find out what they are. Anyone know what I'm talking about? Don't make me break out the MSPaint...


They are called Trench Boxes, or Trench Shields. Used to prevent the trench from collapsing inward.
https://www.google.com/search?q=trench+box


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## nobbyv (May 18, 2001)

georgekelp said:


> They are called Trench Boxes, or Trench Shields. Used to prevent the trench from collapsing inward.
> https://www.google.com/search?q=trench+box


Yep, that's them. Thanks!


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## georgekelp (Aug 15, 2005)

cuppie said:


> Both are incorrect (at least, when it comes to OE German wheels.)
> They're for wheel alignments. Instead of a 'rim clamp' mount (where the mount sits on the edge of the wheel) for the sensors or targets, the mount has 5 pins that go thru those holes. That way, the mount is sitting against the brake rotor (and, therefore, is sitting right on the wheel hub.)
> Eliminates the need to do a runout compensation when you're setting up an alignment. Faster, and more accurate.


Can you provide a picture of said alignment tool?


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

http://www.hunter.com/Portals/0/Media/5414-T.pdf 
Page 9

I can try to get a more front-on pic sometime today.


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## scottybones (Jan 5, 2008)

*Nail(s) in tire*

How do I deal with nails in my tire? Remove and plug? Trip to the tire shop?










Speakin of things that are broke, the mobile Flickr app and site can drop off a cliff; took me damn near 20 mins to get a url with a image suffix with their crap site.


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## georgekelp (Aug 15, 2005)

It depends on where the nail is in the tire. Certain places are more difficult or not safe to plug, and some are okay. Obviously replacing the tire would be safer. Take it to a reputable shop and see what they recommend for safety. If the tread is low on your other tires it might be a good time to replace 2 or 4 at once.


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## scottybones (Jan 5, 2008)

georgekelp said:


> It depends on where the nail is in the tire. Certain places are more difficult or not safe to plug, and some are okay. Obviously replacing the tire would be safer. Take it to a reputable shop and see what they recommend for safety. If the tread is low on your other tires it might be a good time to replace 2 or 4 at once.


Tread should be good, only a year old. But haven't taken a gauge to it yet to get an accurate measure of the depth...


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## Neezy13 (Jun 1, 2011)

scottybones said:


> How do I deal with nails in my tire? Remove and plug? Trip to the tire shop?


I just plugged one of mine tonight. I plugged another one last weekend. As stated, it depends on the location but the basic ribbon plugs are fine as long as you don't plan to track them. I would be hesitant to do more than one per tire but ymmv. 

On the other hand, a tire shop can probably do a proper plug from the inside for cheap. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

Punctures like that are a common occurrence in the land of irresponsible contractors. I've had as many as 7 plugs in one tire. If done properly, they'll outlast the tire.

IMO, having a small compressor and a good plug kit (and knowing how to use it) is almost more important than having a donut if you get a flat in the middle of nowhere with no cell coverage.


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## Hostile (Nov 18, 2001)

georgekelp said:


> They are called Trench Boxes, or Trench Shields. Used to prevent the trench from collapsing inward.
> https://www.google.com/search?q=trench+box


I've always wondered what these things are! :beer:


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

I know running AC lowers mileage , does the level that you run it make any difference (Low vs: High) 

Also; is this still true in newer cars ??


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## Egz (May 30, 2002)

skydive_007 said:


> I know running AC lowers mileage , does the level that you run it make any difference (Low vs: High)
> 
> Also; is this still true in newer cars ??


I was under the impression that most, if not all cars, used a single stage compressor and adjusted temperature via blend doors. But I am also curious if anyone has started to use two stage scroll compressors now.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Egz said:


> I was under the impression that most, if not all cars, used a single stage compressor and adjusted temperature via blend doors. But I am also curious if anyone has started to use two stage scroll compressors now.


My car has manual HVAC controls so it can't do anything with blend doors. It runs the compressor continuously when it's hot and the fan is on full. It also kicks up the idle speed a few hundred RPM (like from 650 to 900) when the A/C is on max and it is more than about 95 °F. When the fan is on 1 or 2 it cycles the compressor on an off and idles lower (the ScanGauge says the difference is about .1 GPH, like from .38 to .28 GPH). When the A/C is off it uses .12-.13 GPH (gallons per hour) when idling.

The Mirage has auto climate and I haven't totally figured out what it does but it definitely runs the compressor more when you have the fan cranked and the temp in the 60s.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

Egz said:


> I was under the impression that most, if not all cars, used a single stage compressor and adjusted temperature via blend doors.


My Mk4 uses a variable displacement compressor, and I have watched the fuel rate ramp up and down gently as the system 'cycles', and it almost settles into a constant draw as the system stabilizes.
I've always wondered why they didn't become more popular, since you don't have them slamming on and off.

That said... if you're drawing less air over the evaporator, you'd think that the system wouldn't cycle as much to keep it cold as if you were blasting air over it.


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

So I just found out my dad's 2015 Mazda3 takes 0W-20 which apparently doesn't exist in dino flavour. But the recommended interval is still 5000 miles. What gives?


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

Elite_Deforce said:


> So I just found out my dad's 2015 Mazda3 takes 0W-20 which apparently doesn't exist in dino flavour. But the recommended interval is still 5000 miles. What gives?


Motorcraft makes a 0W20 synthetic blend for Ford hybrids and some DI engines. I assume Mazda uses a similar oil.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

Egz said:


> I was under the impression that most, if not all cars, used a single stage compressor and adjusted temperature via blend doors. But I am also curious if anyone has started to use two stage scroll compressors now.


Oh yeah man :thumbup:
Variable pumps are the thing... previously OE's don't want to pay for it, but now technology can only give you so much FE and that's where its at.


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## Hostile (Nov 18, 2001)

Why do ambulances and fire trucks always have a bunch of short chains hanging down from their undercarriages?


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## The Igneous Faction (Dec 30, 2006)

Hostile said:


> Why do ambulances and fire trucks always have a bunch of short chains hanging down from their undercarriages?


Those are automatic tire chains for the snow. Pretty ingenius!


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## mauwhir (Jan 30, 2009)

The Igneous Faction said:


> Those are automatic tire chains for the snow. Pretty ingenius!


^ Goes without saying, try not to get run over by any vehicle using these

My question's about brakes: when using a car with drums on the back, discs on the front, is it normal or not to have the rear rims heat up? On drums there is more direct contact of the metal drum-to-rim so I initially assumed they'd heat up faster, but less of the braking force is applied to the back wheels, so maybe they should stay cooler... 
Assuming reserved driving, are warmer rear rims typical, or sign of impending brake problems?


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

My understanding from the great disc v drum debate that happened a dozen pages ago is that drum brakes take longer to dissipate heat but also operate at higher temps before they fade. May be worth digging back trying too find the discussion. 

But maybe also your drums are binding. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

mauwhir said:


> ^ Goes without saying, try not to get run over by any vehicle using these
> 
> My question's about brakes: when using a car with drums on the back, discs on the front, is it normal or not to have the rear rims heat up? On drums there is more direct contact of the metal drum-to-rim so I initially assumed they'd heat up faster, but less of the braking force is applied to the back wheels, so maybe they should stay cooler...
> Assuming reserved driving, are warmer rear rims typical, or sign of impending brake problems?


Energy is heat and stopping a car takes energy. Even my tail heavy car will heat the front brakes much faster than the rears and all four of them are drums. :beer:

Drums hold on to heat, as they can't dissipate it as easily as a disk out there in the wind.

Corrected to correct autocorrect. The meaning became unclear. :banghead:


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## Hostile (Nov 18, 2001)

The Igneous Faction said:


> Those are automatic tire chains for the snow. Pretty ingenius!


So in that video they are closer to the wheels. I was behind an ambulance yesterday morning and the chains, 8 or so, were in the center of the chassis.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Hostile said:


> So in that video they are closer to the wheels. I was behind an ambulance yesterday morning and the chains, 8 or so, were in the center of the chassis.


Maybe the swing arm, or may also be ground chains.


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## PerL (Jan 9, 2001)

Hostile said:


> So in that video they are closer to the wheels. I was behind an ambulance yesterday morning and the chains, 8 or so, were in the center of the chassis.


There is usually hooks under the chassis to hang the chains when not in use. You don't want the wet and dirty chains inside the vehicle or inside a stowage compartment, much less inside an ambulance.


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## georgekelp (Aug 15, 2005)

Hostile said:


> So in that video they are closer to the wheels. I was behind an ambulance yesterday morning and the chains, 8 or so, were in the center of the chassis.





VDub2625 said:


> or may also be ground chains.


Grounding chains. There is sensitive equipment (and people) on ambulances, so to have the truck always grounded is a safety measure. 

Search ambulance grounding chains on Google.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

Elite_Deforce said:


> So I just found out my dad's 2015 Mazda3 takes 0W-20 which apparently doesn't exist in dino flavour. But the recommended interval is still 5000 miles. What gives?


Yeah I'm in the same boat.

I'm going to guess super light weight oil for best possible fuel economy and very tight oil passages, therefor needing to change somewhat more frequently to keep contaminants from choking off tiny oil passages?

I dunno, but to be honest, I was also a little surprised since these Skyactiv engines run cooler than most direct injection engines (therefor less heat to chemically ruin the oil) and less carbon buildup (therefor less carbon contamination in the oil). I would have thought a longer oil life would be the byproduct. I guess not.

I always buy my oil and filters at Mazda (but do the change myself). There isn't much of a mark-up over store-bought, and I get to have all the Mazda receipts for oil changes in case something goes wrong within the warranty. :thumbup:


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

worth_fixing said:


> Yeah I'm in the same boat.
> 
> I'm going to guess super light weight oil for best possible fuel economy and very tight oil passages, therefor needing to change somewhat more frequently to keep contaminants from choking off tiny oil passages?
> 
> ...


Ours is a lease, so I think we will be stretching that 5000 mile interval.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

Does anyone know if Lotus built the Elise S1 (first generation) in left-hand configuration? I'm only finding right-hand drive examples in left-hand drive countries, and many left-hand drive conversion kits. The only left-hand drive ones I find are converted.


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## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

How long does crappy ethenol gas last even with seafoam gas treatment in it>


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Are you talking about economy or storage?

I think Sta-Bil is better for long term storage and good for at least a year. The real problem with storing high ethanol gas is that it absorbs moisture and causes corrosion. Sta-bil neutralizes that. Supposedly.


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## PerL (Jan 9, 2001)

worth_fixing said:


> Does anyone know if Lotus built the Elise S1 (first generation) in left-hand configuration? I'm only finding right-hand drive examples in left-hand drive countries, and many left-hand drive conversion kits. The only left-hand drive ones I find are converted.


The Series 1 was built in both LHD and RHD


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## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

Why does everyone assume the fuel economy readout on the dash is inaccurate? Cars are fuel injected, so it knows exactly how much fuel is being used per mile driven. As opposed to filling it up and completely guessing it's about as full as last time. That's entirely arbitrary.


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## robr2 (May 5, 2005)

Why do car washes put plastic sleeves over the rear wipers in the winter?


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

adrew said:


> My car has manual HVAC controls so it can't do anything with blend doors. It runs the compressor continuously when it's hot and the fan is on full. It also kicks up the idle speed a few hundred RPM (like from 650 to 900) when the A/C is on max and it is more than about 95 °F. When the fan is on 1 or 2 it cycles the compressor on an off and idles lower (the ScanGauge says the difference is about .1 GPH, like from .38 to .28 GPH). When the A/C is off it uses .12-.13 GPH (gallons per hour) when idling.
> 
> The Mirage has auto climate and I haven't totally figured out what it does but it definitely runs the compressor more when you have the fan cranked and the temp in the 60s.


So , does it matter then if your on high or low as far as mileage ???


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## Sarpedon (Jun 9, 2011)

robr2 said:


> Why do car washes put plastic sleeves over the rear wipers in the winter?



In automatic car washes, the bristles can get caught in the exposed rear wiper arm, which may cause it to be yanked off and damaged. 


They don't put sleeves in the front wipers because for most front wipers are recessed, so the bristles won't get snagged in the arms or clips.


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## robr2 (May 5, 2005)

Sarpedon said:


> In automatic car washes, the bristles can get caught in the exposed rear wiper arm, which may cause it to be yanked off and damaged.
> 
> 
> They don't put sleeves in the front wipers because for most front wipers are recessed, so the bristles won't get snagged in the arms or clips.


Okay. But here in New England, they only seem to do it in the winter.


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## 88c900t (Jul 7, 2014)

Why would only one rotor be warped and grooved to ****, and the other 3 are fine?


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

88c900t said:


> Why would only one rotor be warped and grooved to ****, and the other 3 are fine?


Sticky/seized caliper sliders would be my first guess. 
Second guess: If service history is unknown, this particular corner could be mismatched and/or older than the others.
Third guess: proportioning valve issue.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

So I remember hearing and reading about how you should not be accelerating (or attempting to) in too low of a gear, as this 'stresses' your engine and that you're actually doing damage to it. I understand your engine is struggling to produce enough power to keep your car at speed, and it sounds like it's working hard...but is it really?

We all downshift when the revvs dip too low, but...does it really actually cause any damage at all if your engine is turning a meagre 1,300 rpm up a slope a little too steep? I mean, your engine is only producing about 30 horsepower at that time, which is sufficient to keep the speed you're travelling at up the hill, but if you were to down shift and place rpm back up to 3,100 rpm, you're now producing 140 horsepower and can now accelerate up that hill with ease. In my opinion, you're putting more stress on your engine simply by generating more power, and outputting a resulting force allowing you to accelerate.

Which scenario does more 'damage' (or stress, whichever you'd like to call it), and why?


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

worth_fixing said:


> So I remember hearing and reading about how you should not be accelerating (or attempting to) in too low of a gear, as this 'stresses' your engine and that you're actually doing damage to it. I understand your engine is struggling to produce enough power to keep your car at speed, and it sounds like it's working hard...but is it really?
> 
> We all downshift when the revvs dip too low, but...does it really actually cause any damage at all if your engine is turning a meagre 1,300 rpm up a slope a little too steep? I mean, your engine is only producing about 30 horsepower at that time, which is sufficient to keep the speed you're travelling at up the hill, but if you were to down shift and place rpm back up to 3,100 rpm, you're now producing 140 horsepower and can now accelerate up that hill with ease. In my opinion, you're putting more stress on your engine simply by generating more power, and outputting a resulting force allowing you to accelerate.
> 
> Which scenario does more 'damage' (or stress, whichever you'd like to call it), and why?


I would also like to know the real reasons here. 

My armchair hypothesis (warning! Pure anecdotal guesswork ahead) is based not on expert engine knowledge, but from riding bikes. When riding a bike in a high gear at speed, everything is going smoothly; transmission has you spinning the proper RPMs for the speed you're maintaining. Now you approach a hill, and have to start grinding up in the tall gear. You could do it. It's not efficient, your legs feel the stress, and now you're using your arms to pull the bars to create more torque, but you made it up the rise. Meanwhile you definitely feel a burn in your legs, while the guy next to you downshifted and spun up the hill at a higher RPM, but with much less stress on his body. At the top of the hill, your legs are burning more than if you'd downshifted.

Not exactly sure how (or if) that translates to cars, but I'd wager this is one of those Horsepower vs Torque scenarios.


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## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

worth_fixing said:


> So I remember hearing and reading about how you should not be accelerating (or attempting to) in too low of a gear, as this 'stresses' your engine and that you're actually doing damage to it. I understand your engine is struggling to produce enough power to keep your car at speed, and it sounds like it's working hard...but is it really?
> 
> We all downshift when the revvs dip too low, but...does it really actually cause any damage at all if your engine is turning a meagre 1,300 rpm up a slope a little too steep? I mean, your engine is only producing about 30 horsepower at that time, which is sufficient to keep the speed you're travelling at up the hill, but if you were to down shift and place rpm back up to 3,100 rpm, you're now producing 140 horsepower and can now accelerate up that hill with ease. In my opinion, you're putting more stress on your engine simply by generating more power, and outputting a resulting force allowing you to accelerate.
> 
> Which scenario does more 'damage' (or stress, whichever you'd like to call it), and why?







Havent watched the video, assuming there are answers here tho


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

VR6JH said:


> Havent watched the video, assuming there are answers here tho


This guy does such a great job explaining this stuff.


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

^^ Beat me to it.


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## tyintegra (Sep 14, 2010)

I posted this in the suspension thread, but I am not sure how much activity that area gets. I am having an issue on my '13 R. I had some vibration with my summer tires that I think started after getting an alignment at the VW dealership. This weekend I put a brand new set of all season tires on my winter rims and I am still getting the vibration. 

It feels like the vibration is coming more through the seat than through the wheel. When the VW dealership did the alignment they did mention having to adjust the subframe and having to replace the subframe bolts (since "they are a single use part").

Any advice on what to check to avoid a bunch of diagnostic charges?


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## fR3ZNO (May 5, 2014)

tyintegra said:


> I posted this in the suspension thread, but I am not sure how much activity that area gets. I am having an issue on my '13 R. I had some vibration with my summer tires that I think started after getting an alignment at the VW dealership. This weekend I put a brand new set of all season tires on my winter rims and I am still getting the vibration.
> 
> It feels like the vibration is coming more through the seat than through the wheel. When the VW dealership did the alignment they did mention having to adjust the subframe and having to replace the subframe bolts (since "they are a single use part").
> 
> Any advice on what to check to avoid a bunch of diagnostic charges?


Typically, when you feel vibration in the seat, that would indicate that it's coming from the rear wheels. 

You could check the wheels for play by jacking up the car grabbing the wheel at 12 and 6 as well as 3 and 9 and rocking. That will let you see if there's any loose ball joints that would contribute to a vibration. 

You could also trying swapping wheels front to back, depending on if the tread is directional or not and see if the vibration changes (like you feel it more in the steering wheel afterwards).


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## tyintegra (Sep 14, 2010)

fR3ZNO said:


> Typically, when you feel vibration in the seat, that would indicate that it's coming from the rear wheels.
> 
> You could check the wheels for play by jacking up the car grabbing the wheel at 12 and 6 as well as 3 and 9 and rocking. That will let you see if there's any loose ball joints that would contribute to a vibration.
> 
> You could also trying swapping wheels front to back, depending on if the tread is directional or not and see if the vibration changes (like you feel it more in the steering wheel afterwards).


This morning I tried pushing on the top of the tires (with the car sitting on the ground) and I couldn't feel any movement. I am guessing that having the car on the ground wouldn't give me a very good indication correct?


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## fR3ZNO (May 5, 2014)

tyintegra said:


> This morning I tried pushing on the top of the tires (with the car sitting on the ground) and I couldn't feel any movement. I am guessing that having the car on the ground wouldn't give me a very good indication correct?


Not really, unless there was a huge amount of play. You'd be better off jacking the car up.


----------



## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

MrMook said:


> I would also like to know the real reasons here.
> 
> My armchair hypothesis (warning! Pure anecdotal guesswork ahead) is based not on expert engine knowledge, but from riding bikes. When riding a bike in a high gear at speed, everything is going smoothly; transmission has you spinning the proper RPMs for the speed you're maintaining. Now you approach a hill, and have to start grinding up in the tall gear. You could do it. It's not efficient, your legs feel the stress, and now you're using your arms to pull the bars to create more torque, but you made it up the rise. Meanwhile you definitely feel a burn in your legs, while the guy next to you downshifted and spun up the hill at a higher RPM, but with much less stress on his body. At the top of the hill, your legs are burning more than if you'd downshifted.
> 
> Not exactly sure how (or if) that translates to cars, but I'd wager this is one of those Horsepower vs Torque scenarios.


Actually, I started thinking about it, and I think found the answer. It's certainly builds on what you just stated, how your legs felt more tired at too high of a gearing.

The way I see it, if your car has to travel a distance of 100 meters up a slope and your transmission is in 5th gear, your pistons will scrape against the cylinder walls, say, 100 times each in 500 meters of hauling a 1,300 kg car factored at the gradient of the slope. If you were to be in 3rd gear, your pistons would be scraping against the cylinder walls, say 850 times each in the same 500 meter distance, hauling the exact weight factored at the exact same slope. The difference is, in 3rd gear, you're dispersing the work each pistons does against their respective walls, so less scraping force per meter of distance your car travels. And this is regardless of speed. In this respect, the lower gear you're in, the less scraping force per piston per meter you're subjecting your engine to.

So if your engine could turn a theoretical 30,000 rpm, you'd be dispersing the same amount of scraping force required to haul your 1,300 kg car (factored by the slope angle) across more surface area. Of course, we would be meeting the other wear barrier consequent to higher engine speed.

Anyway, this is just my own anecdotal guesswork here, but it makes sense.



VR6JH said:


> Havent watched the video, assuming there are answers here tho


Yes, there are many things of relevance to my question, but I wish he went on the clarify the 'more engine wear' point, as opposed to showing some extreme scenarios. I think that video applied more to a performance engine in an extreme scenario.


----------



## 01tj (Nov 8, 2005)

At what point to you hit the gas when letting out on the clutch while moving. I always give a little gas in the sweet spot but I never get the push in the seat that I feel when others drive. It seems like I shift smoother than others but I like to feel it in my seat and I don't feel it when I shift.


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

01tj said:


> At what point to you hit the gas when letting out on the clutch while moving. I always give a little gas in the sweet spot but I never get the push in the seat that I feel when others drive. It seems like I shift smoother than others but I like to feel it in my seat and I don't feel it when I shift.


If I'm going to give it the beans, I wait until just after the sweet spot, right when I can let the clutch pedal out entirely. Thats when the clutch plate is planted firmly on the flywheel, and you'll get all the power transfer with none of the slipping.


----------



## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

Those of you with multiple cars that have to sometimes move around cars without getting them up to operating temperature: does this really have a huge negative impact on engine wear? Are the moisture and hydrocarbons really a big deal if I were to move a car and not drive again for, say, a week? (I know doing this while a car is in storage is long term enough to cause problems)


----------



## import600 (Dec 9, 2007)

01tj said:


> At what point to you hit the gas when letting out on the clutch while moving. I always give a little gas in the sweet spot but I never get the push in the seat that I feel when others drive. It seems like I shift smoother than others but I like to feel it in my seat and I don't feel it when I shift.


I was taught to let the clutch out slowly with no gas applied, and find the spot where the car begins to roll forward. That spot is where you begin to press the gas. Making sure there is firm engagement of the clutch, no spinning and no lurching. Also once at that point you can hit the gas harder for a harder faster start.


----------



## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

import600 said:


> I was taught to let the clutch out slowly with no gas applied, and find the spot where the car begins to roll forward. That spot is where you begin to press the gas. Making sure there is firm engagement of the clutch, no spinning and no lurching. Also once at that point you can hit the gas harder for a harder faster start.


This doesn't work on all cars. Especially with low torque cars, you will have to get the engine going a bit first.


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Elite_Deforce said:


> This doesn't work on all cars. Especially with low torque cars, you will have to get the engine going a bit first.


Well, you just need to change "the spot where the car begins to roll forward" to "the spot where the car begins to stall". 

I've never owned a car that just goes when you let out the clutch. Maybe my old Navajo, but I don't remember exactly.


----------



## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

MrMook said:


> Well, you just need to change "the spot where the car begins to roll forward" to "the spot where the car begins to stall".
> 
> I've never owned a car that just goes when you let out the clutch. Maybe my old Navajo, but I don't remember exactly.


It really depends on the gearing/engine/clutch design/etc. For my Mazda3, for example (the synchros are also a bit shot, but let's not get into that), if I don't give a liberal amount of gas even on flat ground I will lug the engine to the point where I'm probably not doing any favours for my engine mounts. 

In an R56 Cooper S (turbo), no problem. In my big V8 Mustang, no problem.


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Elite_Deforce said:


> It really depends on the gearing/engine/clutch design/etc. For my Mazda3, for example (the synchros are also a bit shot, but let's not get into that), if I don't give a liberal amount of gas even on flat ground I will lug the engine to the point where I'm probably not doing any favours for my engine mounts.


My 5 is the same way. I wonder if it is synchros, but I hear no grinding. The shifting is a bit stiff, and the lower gears are a bit notchy. I also have to feather the clutch and gas carefully when starting in 1st or it lugs like a dog. Doesn't help that the clutch releases halfway up the pedal travel. I prefer the clutch to engage about an inch from the floor.


----------



## Leted88 (Feb 5, 2016)

I hit a pothole and it bent my steel rim, should I still replace it even after the local tyre shop "fixed" it?

Here is a before the "fix" picture










(Idk why the picture is flipped)


----------



## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

Would adapting a Lazy Boy into an S2000 work 

Is there anything else that will work if you weigh 450+#


----------



## 4.OMG (Dec 20, 2004)

Elite_Deforce said:


> Those of you with multiple cars that have to sometimes move around cars without getting them up to operating temperature: does this really have a huge negative impact on engine wear? Are the moisture and hydrocarbons really a big deal if I were to move a car and not drive again for, say, a week? (I know doing this while a car is in storage is long term enough to cause problems)


It depends on what you consider a "problem". There will be some incremental wear, but probably not enough to have any noticeable effect on performance or durability (i.e., all other things being equal, the engine will last 249,500 miles instead of 250,000 miles). Realistically, the cold start probably causes more wear than the short trip does.


----------



## The Igneous Faction (Dec 30, 2006)

Leted88 said:


> I hit a pothole and it bent my steel rim, should I still replace it even after the local tyre shop "fixed" it?
> 
> Here is a before the "fix" picture
> 
> ...


Steel is remarkably pliable. If it balanced out okay who cares? I have definitelt massaged one of my steel winter wheels back info shape with liberal application of a mini sledge.


----------



## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

MrMook said:


> My 5 is the same way. I wonder if it is synchros, but I hear no grinding. The shifting is a bit stiff, and the lower gears are a bit notchy. I also have to feather the clutch and gas carefully when starting in 1st or it lugs like a dog. Doesn't help that the clutch releases halfway up the pedal travel. I prefer the clutch to engage about an inch from the floor.


Yes, these cars seem to be that way. Difficult to drive smoothly at 2/10ths.




4.OMG said:


> It depends on what you consider a "problem". There will be some incremental wear, but probably not enough to have any noticeable effect on performance or durability (i.e., all other things being equal, the engine will last 249,500 miles instead of 250,000 miles). Realistically, the cold start probably causes more wear than the short trip does.


I'm more worry about what is left behind after shut down.


----------



## Metallitubby (Aug 20, 2001)

82Turbo930 said:


> Would adapting a Lazy Boy into an S2000 work


I adapted a classic passenger seat into my CRV:


----------



## tyintegra (Sep 14, 2010)

fR3ZNO said:


> Typically, when you feel vibration in the seat, that would indicate that it's coming from the rear wheels.
> 
> You could check the wheels for play by jacking up the car grabbing the wheel at 12 and 6 as well as 3 and 9 and rocking. That will let you see if there's any loose ball joints that would contribute to a vibration.
> 
> You could also trying swapping wheels front to back, depending on if the tread is directional or not and see if the vibration changes (like you feel it more in the steering wheel afterwards).


Ok, so I took the car to the dealership last week and they said it was a bent wheel (no issues with these same rims last season on the old set of tires). So, I put the old set of rims (summer tires) on (had the winter wheels and new all season tires when I brought it in last week) and took it back to the dealership today. The vibration (bumpy feeling) is better with the summer tires, but is still there.

So, is there anything that would cause a vibration (bumpy feeling) that would get worse with new tires?


----------



## andlf (Feb 6, 2008)

Metallitubby said:


> I adapted a classic passenger seat into my CRV:



:thumbup::laugh:


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Why are there virtually no flat-fronted trucks/trailer cabs in the US (except med duty GMC/Isuzu trucks), and conversely the only distinctive front-engined trucks/trailer cabs that can be found in the rest of the world are <1970s relics?










vs


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

thegave said:


> Why are there virtually no flat-fronted trucks/trailer cabs in the US (except med duty GMC/Isuzu trucks), and conversely the only distinctive front-engined trucks/trailer cabs that can be found in the rest of the world are <1970s relics?


I was also interested in why. I found this :
You can see how the cab-over has many compromises; many of which are overlooked in countries where they're popular in favour of their advantages taking more weight.



> Cabover trucks, COE (cab over engine), are essentially a style of big rig truck without a hood. The nose of the semi is flat and the truck cab sits on top of the diesel engine and steering axle.
> 
> Because of the regulations for length, this style of rig was very popular in it’s day. The placement of the truck cab over the motor, saves some length. The overall length of truck and trailer, back then, could only be a maximum of 65′, from 1956 to 1976. In 1976, another 9′ of length was allowed, for a maximum 75′ allowance.
> 
> ...


And then there's a list of advantages and disadvantages :



> *Maneuverability *This style of old semi trucks are incredibly maneuverable. When backing in to loading docks and winding through heavy traffic, nothing can compare with a cabover truck! The shortened wheelbase allows for this tight turning radius.
> 
> For this reason, they are still popular in Europe, where the roadways are generally narrower, with tight clearances, and even more congested than in North America.
> 
> ...


----------



## PerL (Jan 9, 2001)

Leted88 said:


> I hit a pothole and it bent my steel rim, should I still replace it even after the local tyre shop "fixed" it?
> 
> Here is a before the "fix" picture
> 
> ...


This is just the outer lip and not the bead itself. I've done this several times. Just take a hammer and other tools you might need and straighten it out again.


----------



## NeverEnoughCars (Aug 2, 2013)

PerL said:


> This is just the outer lip and not the bead itself. I've done this several times. Just take a hammer and other tools you might need and straighten it out again.


I bent a BBS RA on my way to a show many years ago. I took the lug wrench to it until it looked round enough and then aired it back up. It still holds air to this day and balances without much effort. :beer:


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Explains why all racing trucks are Coe.


----------



## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

thegave said:


> Explains why all racing trucks are Coe.


Probably because they're lighter and more maneuverable. None of the advantages of a long-nose are beneficial in racing. If you read the stuff I posted earlier, long-nose trucks are far better for driver comfort. Comfort isn't something that's needed in racing.


----------



## O_loung1 (Feb 13, 2001)

robr2 said:


> Okay. But here in New England, they only seem to do it in the winter.


i used to have a monthly pass on one of the larger auto-wash chains in texas and would go at least 1-2 per week.
most of the time they would put the plastic sleeve on the back of the rabbit, regardless of temperature. probably a budget thing where most of their volume is during the colder months and a plastic sleeve is cheaper than dealing with a claim. 



Elite_Deforce said:


> For my Mazda3, for example (the synchros are also a bit shot, but let's not get into that)


let's get into that  since your mazda3 is not much older than 8 years, what do you think was the root cause of syncro wear?
bad habits, abuse or mechanical? 1st, 2nd or 3rd syncros?


----------



## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

O_loung1 said:


> let's get into that  since your mazda3 is not much older than 8 years, what do you think was the root cause of syncro wear?
> bad habits, abuse or mechanical? 1st, 2nd or 3rd syncros?


The PO towed a boat with it (remember kids, never buy a small hatchback used to tow a boat!) so I can only assume it was from that. The clutch is in ok shape (cracks a couple times lightly through the travel) but the car only has 120k km on it right now so maybe his poor shifting habits didn't have enough time to wear on the clutch.

2nd > 1st > 3rd are clearly worn in that order.


----------



## O_loung1 (Feb 13, 2001)

Elite_Deforce said:


> The PO towed a boat with it (remember kids, never buy a small hatchback used to tow a boat!) so I can only assume it was from that.


that's definitely good purchasing advice :thumbup: falls under the category of the other TCL thread, "would you buy a modded car". i've heard some people wont look at otherwise clean, used cars if the PO added an aftermarket towing hitch, even if "they never towed anything with it". for some reason i've always associated that stigma to chassis fatigue but now i understand the true underlying concern is abuse of the drive train.


----------



## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

As a typical Saturday morning, I was just browsing Hemmings and noticed the tachometer for SA/FB RX-7s had a 'Volt' meter as well.

Can someone explain?


----------



## The Igneous Faction (Dec 30, 2006)

worth_fixing said:


> As a typical Saturday morning, I was just browsing Hemmings and noticed the tachometer for SA/FB RX-7s had a 'Volt' meter as well.
> 
> Can someone explain?


Well engine speed directly corresponds to alternator speed which has an effect on the output of the alternator. I would say that is a very inaccurate measure of alternator output and more of a fun gimmick.


----------



## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

The Igneous Faction said:


> Well engine speed directly corresponds to alternator speed which has an effect on the output of the alternator. I would say that is a very inaccurate measure of alternator output and more of a fun gimmick.


Was it ever an issue (in any older vehicle) to lack alternator electrical output?

Hold my drink; I need to use the A/C *and *the radio.


----------



## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

worth_fixing said:


> Was it ever an issue (in any older vehicle) to lack alternator electrical output?
> 
> Hold my drink; I need to use the A/C *and *the radio.


My Mustang has a gauge for batt volts... Pretty important IMO.


----------



## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

Elite_Deforce said:


> My Mustang has a gauge for batt volts... Pretty important IMO.


Really? I mean, I understand it's nice to see how much juice is left on your battery if it's a winter-drive daily, but for a summer-only car, I just don't see the purpose.


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## NashGTI (Mar 8, 2006)

Some older cars with generators you could essentially make the battery go dead by using too many things at idle. Even when they started putting alternators in cars, some of the external voltage regulators were adjustable and the operation of the components was spotty. It was a pretty nice thing to have on a car back in the day, anything modern and it's rather pointless but then pretty much everything gauge wise on a modern car is pointless.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

It was useful on my Jetta (1990 16v) to know if the alt or battery were dead, lol. or if something was consuming too much power, as you'd see the gauge adjust as soon as you turned it on. Basically if it was abnormal, at least you could see it. newer cars have such high amperage alternators the struggle for power is nil nowadays (especially with so many computers requiring strictly regulated voltage).


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

worth_fixing said:


> Really? I mean, I understand it's nice to see how much juice is left on your battery if it's a winter-drive daily, but for a summer-only car, I just don't see the purpose.


To see if the charging system and/or battery is functioning properly. Especially if you are having electrical issues.


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## NashGTI (Mar 8, 2006)

VDub2625 said:


> It was useful on my Jetta (1990 16v) to know if the alt or battery were dead, lol. or if something was consuming too much power, as you'd see the gauge adjust as soon as you turned it on. Basically if it was abnormal, at least you could see it. newer cars have such high amperage alternators the struggle for power is nil nowadays (especially with so many computers requiring strictly regulated voltage).


Something else to think about, with large numbers of cars today have a charge on demand system, a gauge that was a true readout would be constantly fluctuating and cause people to freak out. So, like the temperature gauge in modern cars the thing would have to be damped to the point of not actually telling you much of anything useful.


----------



## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

Elite_Deforce said:


> My Mustang has a gauge for batt volts... Pretty important IMO.


But a voltmeter actually reads/measures something. That gauge in the RX7 can't be anything more than a suggested charging output at that engine speed. It doesn't actually display anything useful.


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## PerL (Jan 9, 2001)

saron81 said:


> But a voltmeter actually reads/measures something. That gauge in the RX7 can't be anything more than a suggested charging output at that engine speed. It doesn't actually display anything useful.


Unless there is a second, hidden needle under the RPM needle, which I doubt


----------



## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

On a trickle charger; can someone explain when and why to switch between:

2 and 6 amp 
&
6 an 12 volt


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

skydive_007 said:


> On a trickle charger; can someone explain when and why to switch between:
> 
> 2 and 6 amp
> &
> 6 an 12 volt


Old cars use 6-volt. The switch happened around 1956. If you use the 6-volt setting it won't charge a 12-volt battery.

On a modern 12-volt car there are two types of batteries, Lead-acid and gel. Don't use anything higher than 10-amp on a gel cel or it will ruin it. the 6 and 2-amp ratings are about
how fast it will charge with 6-amp being 3 times as fast as 2-amp.

Edit: Make sure your battery is ventilated, either by tubing or being in open air. The charging process can produce explosive gasses if concentrated and the fumes are highly corrosive. Many cars will have under-hood rust above the battery.


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

PerL said:


> Unless there is a second, hidden needle under the RPM needle, which I doubt


Or a button that changes the reading from RPM to Volts.


----------



## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

skydive_007 said:


> On a trickle charger; can someone explain when and why to switch between:
> 
> 2 and 6 amp
> &
> 6 an 12 volt


Use 6 volt on 6 volt batteries, 12v on 12v batteries. 6V was used up till late 70s on many motorcycles, and still is on some mopeds, maybe lawnmowers.

A slower charge is better and easier on the battery. For a really small battery, 6 amp could possibly boil it. For a normal car battery, 6A is just right for a nice slow charge. 2A takes a couple days to fully charged a large car battery. Some chargers run like a 20/60/150 amp with a 400amp "jump-start". Those real high amperage are where you'll need to be careful with a car battery.


----------



## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

Surf Green said:


> Or a button that changes the reading from RPM to Volts.


I can't remember the specifics, but this is pretty much what it does. 
I think with the engine off, the needle shows battery volts. Engine on and it's just a tach.


----------



## CaleDeRoo (Jul 30, 2011)

Theoretically would it be possible to swap and OBDI engine and ECU into my OBDII car, then have a dummy OBDII ecu in the car hooked up to power and fake the signals for when I have to do a plug test for inspection?


----------



## KeiCar (Jul 23, 2002)

That sounds like a LOT of work, plus what would you do for the emissions part. The sensor measuring the exhaust would be giving different figures to what the _fake _sensors upstream (o2 and such) should be outputting. The testing equipment would probably throw a flag.


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## CaleDeRoo (Jul 30, 2011)

It's only a plug test. There's no sniffer test in NY.


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

CaleDeRoo said:


> Theoretically would it be possible to swap and OBDI engine and ECU into my OBDII car, then have a dummy OBDII ecu in the car hooked up to power and fake the signals for when I have to do a plug test for inspection?


The OBD test interrogates the ECU, getting the VIN number, which they probably cross check. Then it grabs the 'readyness' codes., which are set after a certain number of heat/cool cycles.
I suppose one could program a small microprocessor to report all that information when asked, but you'd have to learn all the protocols, it would be time consuming, and not to mention a federal crime.

There are methods of fooling the ECU into thinking certian parts are still good, like the downstream O2. Still a crime though.


There should be a process to document an engine swap with the emissions authorities, and the tests would then match the replacement engine.


----------



## CaleDeRoo (Jul 30, 2011)

Surf Green said:


> The OBD test interrogates the ECU, getting the VIN number, which they probably cross check. Then it grabs the 'readyness' codes., which are set after a certain number of heat/cool cycles.
> I suppose one could program a small microprocessor to report all that information when asked, but you'd have to learn all the protocols, it would be time consuming, and not to mention a federal crime.
> 
> There are methods of fooling the ECU into thinking certian parts are still good, like the downstream O2. Still a crime though.
> ...




Thanks. Guess I'll just move to a different state. It's. Just. That. Easy.


----------



## J2G (Aug 9, 2012)

Surf Green said:


> There should be a process to document an engine swap with the emissions authorities, and the tests would then match the replacement engine.


This would be nice, though I doubt any government would be okay with swapping an OBDI motor into an OBDII car.


----------



## 01tj (Nov 8, 2005)

barry2952 said:


> Old cars use 6-volt. The switch happened around 1956. If you use the 6-volt setting it won't charge a 12-volt battery.
> 
> On a modern 12-volt car there are two types of batteries, Lead-acid and gel. Don't use anything higher than 10-amp on a gel cel or it will ruin it. the 6 and 2-amp ratings are about
> how fast it will charge with 6-amp being 3 times as fast as 2-amp.
> ...


What do lawn mower batteries use?


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

J2G said:


> This would be nice, though I doubt any government would be okay with swapping an OBDI motor into an OBDII car.


You're probably right... A tiny bit of googling shows that the EPA is conditionally okay with swaps from newer, equivalent cars, and pretty much against swaps from older ones.
Swaps seem pretty common, VTAK or LS1 all the things, so I assumed that a process existed. Obviously, it's more complicated than that.

On the Maryland emissions form, it says that a conversion to diesel makes you exempt from the testing, although it doesn't go into what would be required (inspections, etc) to actually accomplish that.


----------



## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

CaleDeRoo said:


> Theoretically would it be possible to swap and OBDI engine and ECU into my OBDII car, then have a dummy OBDII ecu in the car hooked up to power and fake the signals for when I have to do a plug test for inspection?


Some states (all states?) can reset readiness monitors. If they immediately return to status: ready the car can fail. Then you have to go to a Motorist """"ASSISTANCE"""" Center for crazy-happy-funtimes and a state employee tells you how hellasick dope awesome your car is for an hour and if he likes it SO MUCH you get to go back to see him again for more burnouts and various shenanigans.

TL;DR Don't ever live in MA. :thumbdown:


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## CaleDeRoo (Jul 30, 2011)

Well the SVX was also sold in 97/97, and I have an OBDII SVX ecu. I'll find a way. I've got a few months before I start the swap anyways.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I know nothing of documenting swaps themselves (YMMV), but the vehicle has to conform to the engine's model year emissions. I believe the law is you can put newer in older, but not older in newer. If you can, you might be required to conform to the body's emissions on the older engine or something like that. 




Rob Cote said:


> Then you have to go to a Motorist """"ASSISTANCE"""" Center for crazy-happy-funtimes and a state employee tells you how hellasick dope awesome your car is for an hour and if he likes it SO MUCH you get to go back to see him again for more burnouts and various shenanigans.
> 
> TL;DR Don't ever live in MA. :thumbdown:


Wow, I've never had that issue. I've always had older cars and when they stopped the sniff tests I was in the clear  I actually think MA is more lax on inspections than most "liberal" states. In MA we only plug test cars up to 15 years old


----------



## CaleDeRoo (Jul 30, 2011)

I think the only state that sucks more than NY is California


----------



## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

Looking at 2002s on craiglist I find this thing. Looks like single downdraft carb manifold, but I have never seen anything like it, or find other 2002s with the same setup:


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

monoaural said:


> Looking at 2002s on craiglist I find this thing. Looks like single downdraft carb manifold, but I have never seen anything like it, or find other 2002s with the same setup:


Okay, that's weird. 

It looks like it _could_ be an airbox for a blow-through turbo setup, but that's my only guess at this point.


----------



## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

Air and water do mix said:


> Okay, that's weird.
> 
> It looks like it _could_ be an airbox for a blow-through turbo setup, but that's my only guess at this point.


And you are right. http://www.turbodatsun.com/Blow Through Carby Kit.htm


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

monoaural said:


> And you are right...


YESSSSSSS! I'm going to have to show this to my wife. :laugh: :beer:


----------



## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

the importance of letting a car warm up... I know there is conflicting opinions out there... post yours ??

I have one car with a carburetor and one without...


----------



## Nealric (Feb 16, 2013)

skydive_007 said:


> the importance of letting a car warm up... I know there is conflicting opinions out there... post yours ??
> 
> I have one car with a carburetor and one without...


There's no reason to make it sit idling before driving. However, you should wait until the engine is up to temp before thrashing it. Pretty simple.


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

skydive_007 said:


> the importance of letting a car warm up... I know there is conflicting opinions out there... post yours ??
> 
> I have one car with a carburetor and one without...


I've never seen a reason to let a car warm up. Both types have fuel mixture changes controlled by automatic systems.


----------



## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

skydive_007 said:


> the importance of letting a car warm up... I know there is conflicting opinions out there... post yours ??
> 
> I have one car with a carburetor and one without...


Depends on the car for me;

My '99 Ford daily? I start it as soon as I get in and give it 30sec or so while I connect my phone, belt up then head off.

The MGB doesn't like load when it's still cold (need to sort out the choke linkage sometime), so I give that 2-3 min. I live close to a main road, so I don't get much 'take it easy' in the backstreets.

The '76 Rolls Royce Shadow has noisy/tapping hydraulic pumps until it gets halfway up to temp, so I let that idle a little longer too, maybe 3-4min? The hydraulic fluid level is checked after 4min of idling, so I usually have a quick look, then head out. Auto choke means it comes off choke automatically.

It's probably not necessary, but it makes me feel better.


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

skydive_007 said:


> the importance of letting a car warm up... I know there is conflicting opinions out there... post yours ??
> 
> I have one car with a carburetor and one without...


I give it enough time to let the oil circulate properly, then drive off easily but don't rev too much - if it's an older car. Modern 0W-20 is no problem at cold temps, but 10W-30 or thicker? I give it some time. Once the oil is warm I rev normally.

As long as the carb is functioning as it should and is equipped with a choke pull off valve or is a manual choke, carburetion is fine. Yes, I'm pretty sure whatever you have is equipped with one.  :beer:


----------



## J2G (Aug 9, 2012)

Warming up cars is an age-old debate that everyone will never agree on. I like to let my cars run until they come down off high idle or I lose patience. Usually 15-45 seconds.


----------



## Kwabena (Mar 29, 2002)

Why make a jack that fits perfectly on the pinch welds but then buckles them from the weight?


----------



## 0dd_j0b (Sep 22, 2007)

skydive_007 said:


> the importance of letting a car warm up... I know there is conflicting opinions out there... post yours ??
> 
> I have one car with a carburetor and one without...


I let mine warm up because I don't trust Subaru. With anything.


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Someone told me something about the seals expanding when they warm up. I let the rabbit idle a bit otherwise it stalls when I give it gas


----------



## PerL (Jan 9, 2001)

Kwabena said:


> Why make a jack that fits perfectly on the pinch welds but then buckles them from the weight?


The only time I've buckled the rockers is when I failed to put the jack in the correct jack points. Do it properly, and it shouldn't buckle


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

PerL said:


> The only time I've buckled the rockers is when I failed to put the jack in the correct jack points. Do it properly, and it shouldn't buckle


They do when they're 40 years old :<


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## thetopdog (Nov 11, 2008)

How come electric cars don't usually have multi-gear transmissions? I know they produce peak torque at 0 RPM but wouldn't they still be able to benefit from a transmission with multiple speeds for torque multiplication or whatever?


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

thetopdog said:


> How come electric cars don't usually have multi-gear transmissions? I know they produce peak torque at 0 RPM but wouldn't they still be able to benefit from a transmission with multiple speeds for torque multiplication or whatever?


Adding multiple ratios would add complexity and drag.
Besides, they don't really need torque multiplication for low end power, and electric motor efficiency is pretty flat, and high, through the cruising speed range.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

thetopdog said:


> How come electric cars don't usually have multi-gear transmissions? I know they produce peak torque at 0 RPM but wouldn't they still be able to benefit from a transmission with multiple speeds for torque multiplication or whatever?


The Tesla Roadster was supposed to have a 2 speed gearbox, but they were not able to make it reliable. And it's fairly easy to get more power out of an electric system, you just add batteries, which also adds range. You can even overpower electric motors keeping an eye on heat. Which works well for the usage case of cars, with just bursts of full load to longer periods of maintaining speed. Also in the case of the Spark EV and its 400 ft/lbs of torque (which in later years went done to a tiny 327), a transmission will have to be really strong/expensive. At which point the double benefit of adding batteries makes more sense.

If battery tech doesn't get cheaper, you may see transmissions start popping up in mainstream performance oriented cars to keep acceleration at higher speeds. My Spark EV limits power past 40 mph to prevent damage to the motor. Though acceleration is still acceptable all the way up to its 90 mph top speed.(Which is limited to avoid over-revving the motor, another "reason" for a second speed). That being said, on a road going car, there is not much need for transmission.


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## HackAC (Jan 18, 2014)

2004 1.8T

Steering rack

Trying to buy banjo bolts for rack, but can't remember if the pressure line is M14x1.5 or M16x1.5

ECS has both sizes but the M14x1.5 has a check valve and the M16 doesn't. I need one with a check valve.


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

is that a question or.


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## clutchrider (Dec 11, 2010)

J2G said:


> Warming up cars is an age-old debate that everyone will never agree on. I like to let my cars run until they come down off high idle or I lose patience. Usually 15-45 seconds.


I used to do it all the time, especially before class in the morning years and years ago. However I find my car warms up faster if I just turn on the heated seat and drive the car nice until the temp comes up. Again, driving it nice and not winding out the gears. Now when we are at a family/friends house and it's dead of winter and I need a warm car for my two kids and wife I will go outside and start it up and run for a few minutes. 

Also, benefit of having a garage that stays int he 40/50 degree range when its 20-30 outside. Your car warms up before you get to the end of the street


----------



## Death-Incarnate (Nov 17, 2003)

Trying to figure out what's wrong with the air brakes and brake lights on a work truck - shop mechanic doesn't want to work on it.

International 4900 DT466e. I can apply an increasing amount of pressure to the pedal to the point that I'm pushing back into the seat but I'm not getting a corresponding amount of brake pressure. After the pedal travels a certain amount, it suddenly drops to another level and the brakes come on full force - feels like the parking brake has been applied. At this point the brake lights finally come on. The air pressure gauge will usually drop 15 psi when I get to the second level of the brake pedal travel. The easiest way to stop the truck is to quickly stab the pedal multiple times to get the brakes to work harder. Brake shoes are adjusted properly.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

thetopdog said:


> How come electric cars don't usually have multi-gear transmissions? I know they produce peak torque at 0 RPM but wouldn't they still be able to benefit from a transmission with multiple speeds for torque multiplication or whatever?


I'm in the same boat as you; I feel like, since an electric motor makes its peak torque at 0 rpm, the closer your gear ratio is to 0 rpm, the more torque you output.

I think it's still debatable which is more beneficial; a larger motor with a single gear ratio, or a smaller motor with many gear ratios.
The reason why I think it's debatable is...look at Formula E; every team seems to have its own train of though behind which is the winning combination! Super interesting, if you ask me.











*Team**Gears**Motor*NEXTEV TCR1TwinDS Virgin Racing1TwinRenault e.dams2SingleAbt Schaeffler Audi Sport3SingleDRAGON Racing & Venturi4SingleTrulli4SingleMahindra Racing4SingleTeam Aguri5SingleAndretti5Single


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

HackAC said:


> 2004 1.8T
> 
> Steering rack
> 
> ...


Not really ther best place for this question, but ok...


M14 seems to be the pressure line with valve. M14 is the suction line with no valve.


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

J2G said:


> Warming up cars is an age-old debate that everyone will never agree on. I like to let my cars run until they come down off high idle or I lose patience. Usually 15-45 seconds.


This is all I ever do too ... once the idle drops I take off...

My 86 harley doesn't even idle smooth untill it warms up but I just ride away nice an slow for the first few miles and this seems much better than using the choke because that gums up the carb from giving it to much fuel ...


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

0dd_j0b said:


> I let mine warm up because I don't trust Subaru. With anything.


Ive never owned a more ****ty car than my subaru ... FinG HATe IT


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## PerL (Jan 9, 2001)

Most electric cars these days have inverter heat-pump technology to make the AC system double as a powerful and efficient heater for winter. I have this technology in my house as well, works great in the winter months, yet uses little electricity. Basically, the AC is run in reverse, heating inside, cooling outside. The e-Golf has this, the electric Peugeot we have at my company has this as well

This begs the stupid question, why isn't this technology used in regular cars? My diesel Golf has little excessive heat, and takes forever to warm up in the freeezing months. It would be great to start up the car in -15C and have warm air coming out of the system within seconds, and most of all, it would be a huge safety issue, as it would clear the screens and make the driver comfortable.


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## Mightion (Mar 19, 2008)

PerL said:


> Most electric cars these days have inverter heat-pump technology to make the AC system double as a powerful and efficient heater for winter. I have this technology in my house as well, works great in the winter months, yet uses little electricity. Basically, the AC is run in reverse, heating inside, cooling outside. The e-Golf has this, the electric Peugeot we have at my company has this as well
> 
> This begs the stupid question, why isn't this technology used in regular cars? My diesel Golf has little excessive heat, and takes forever to warm up in the freeezing months. It would be great to start up the car in -15C and have warm air coming out of the system within seconds, and most of all, it would be a huge safety issue, as it would clear the screens and make the driver comfortable.


Just off the top of my head... possibly because it would need a bigger battery and/or alternator?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

My guess is because of all the free heat with no added complexity from the engine. not worth it for a few minute's extra heat.

VW did offer gas-powered heaters (and I think electirc for Mk5 and newer?) for heating while stopped.


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## PerL (Jan 9, 2001)

Mightion said:


> Just off the top of my head... possibly because it would need a bigger battery and/or alternator?


Why would it need that? The AC system is already there, just not the technology to invert it to make heat instead of cold air


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## PerL (Jan 9, 2001)

VDub2625 said:


> My guess is because of all the free heat with no added complexity from the engine. not worth it for a few minute's extra heat.


Have you driven a modern diesel in the winter? It doesn't have a lot of free heat. Sometimes it takes 10-15 minutes of driving before it starts to warm up.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Same for my gas engine... but the diesels also have heat scavengers from the exhaust too. 

Find yourself a stationary heater from a commercial model


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## 88c900t (Jul 7, 2014)

Is it worth it to pay $250 to list a car on BaT? No luck with CL or eBay at all. Is there a chance my car won't sell on Bring a Trailer?


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

88c900t said:


> Is it worth it to pay $250 to list a car on BaT? No luck with CL or eBay at all. Is there a chance my car won't sell on Bring a Trailer?


Depends. What is it? 
If there was NO interest on the other channels, I'm going to guess and say it's not priced appropriately.


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

88c900t said:


> Is it worth it to pay $250 to list a car on BaT? No luck with CL or eBay at all. Is there a chance my car won't sell on Bring a Trailer?


Need more deets. Are we talking about the S40?


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

PerL said:


> Most electric cars these days have inverter heat-pump technology to make the AC system double as a powerful and efficient heater for winter. I have this technology in my house as well, works great in the winter months, yet uses little electricity. Basically, the AC is run in reverse, heating inside, cooling outside. The e-Golf has this, the electric Peugeot we have at my company has this as well
> 
> This begs the stupid question, why isn't this technology used in regular cars? My diesel Golf has little excessive heat, and takes forever to warm up in the freeezing months. It would be great to start up the car in -15C and have warm air coming out of the system within seconds, and most of all, it would be a huge safety issue, as it would clear the screens and make the driver comfortable.


Regular cars do not have electric A/C units, they are driven by the engine, it can not run backwards. 
Hybrid/PHEV or electric cars use electric units for when the engine shuts off. 

Other than that, I don't really know a real technical answer.


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## 88c900t (Jul 7, 2014)

elite_deforce said:


> need more deets. Are we talking about the s40?


86 300zx


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

88c900t said:


> 86 300zx


Links to ad?

Have you tried AT?


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## MCTB (Dec 30, 2005)

Why do the Japanese drive on the right? They were not a British colony and it was the Americans who opened them up to trade and helped them rebuild after WWII.


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

MCTB said:


> Why do the Japanese drive on the right? They were not a British colony and it was the Americans who opened them up to trade and helped them rebuild after WWII.


From Wiki...


> Japan is one of the few countries outside the former British Empire (along with Thailand, Nepal, Bhutan, Mozambique, Suriname, East Timor and Indonesia) to drive on the left. An informal practice of left-hand passage dates at least to the Edo period, when samurai are said to have passed each other to the left to avoid knocking their longer katana swords with each other (as swords were always worn to the left side). During the late 19th century, Japan built its first railways with British technical assistance, and double-tracked railways adopted the British practice of running on the left. Stage Coach Order issued in 1870 and its revision in 1872, followed in 1881 by a further order, stipulated that mutually approaching horses had to avoid each other by shifting to the left.[128] An order issued in 1885 stated that general horses and vehicles had to avoid to the left, but they also had to avoid to the right when they met army troops, until the double standard was legally resolved in 1924.


It appears the British still managed to have influence there.


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## benjamminfla (Aug 7, 2015)

I'm tuning up my truck (91 Ram) before a 900 mile trip at the end of the month towing a Christmas present. It's got roughly 100K miles on the 318 and I'm planning to do a Seafoam treatment, but I'm not sure whether to do it before the ignition, air filter and oil change or afterwards. Help/advice is appreciated.

-Ben


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

I would seafoam it before an oil change, that's for sure. Some stuff could go past the rings and you want to get that out of there. I would also replace the fuel filter afterwards. If they aren't expensive and the system seems especially dirty* you might want to replace it before and afterwards.

*I've heard of situations where dirt would pull through the fuel filter and be drawn into the system.

Since your truck doesn't rely on mechanical systems for timing it doesn't matter if you do the ignition tune before or after. The air filter doesn't matter, either.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I've heard of seafoam fowling plugs (from the crap it cleans up), and it does eat away oil, so you'd want to change those after the treatment.

I've done it without changing those (well, plugs anyway), but if you're doing them anyway, do them after.


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

PerL said:


> Most electric cars these days have inverter heat-pump technology to make the AC system double as a powerful and efficient heater for winter. I have this technology in my house as well, works great in the winter months, yet uses little electricity. Basically, the AC is run in reverse, heating inside, cooling outside. The e-Golf has this, the electric Peugeot we have at my company has this as well
> 
> This begs the stupid question, why isn't this technology used in regular cars? My diesel Golf has little excessive heat, and takes forever to warm up in the freeezing months. It would be great to start up the car in -15C and have warm air coming out of the system within seconds, and most of all, it would be a huge safety issue, as it would clear the screens and make the driver comfortable.


Well, one issue is that a heat pump doesn't exactly work well (if at all) at -15*C. I can't remember the exact number from my i3 training, but, as I recall, the heat pump is disabled before it gets down to that temperature, and the car uses the electric heater, instead. Which is a high-voltage part. 



GTijoejoe said:


> Regular cars do not have electric A/C units, they are driven by the engine, it can not run backwards.
> Hybrid/PHEV or electric cars use electric units for when the engine shuts off.
> 
> Other than that, I don't really know a real technical answer.


 Even an electric A/C compressor only spins in one direction. Making it work as a heat pump is done by re-routing the refrigerant flow, using various shutoff valves. Not by "spinning the compressor the other way."


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

When you get a windshield crack or chip and you call one of those glass guys to come and fill/glue it, isn't the point to stop the crack creeping? 

So what would cause the crack to creep anyway after it's been glued? The cracks in question weren't actual cracks but more like those little pin hole chips that create a small domed appearance behind them. But now there's a spider leg crack running away from each pin hole. 

One obvious answer is user error but I'd like to think my glass guy is competent, he's done other work that's been fine


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

thegave said:


> When you get a windshield crack or chip and you call one of those glass guys to come and fill/glue it, isn't the point to stop the crack creeping?
> 
> So what would cause the crack to creep anyway after it's been glued? The cracks in question weren't actual cracks but more like those little pin hole chips that create a small domed appearance behind them. But now there's a spider leg crack running away from each pin hole.
> 
> One obvious answer is user error but I'd like to think my glass guy is competent, he's done other work that's been fine


I don't know the answer but I've had the same issue. The cracks were there, unchanged, for quite a while. I had them glued and then I had to call them after about a week to come back out and replace the whole windshield. Now when I call I specifically request replacement rather than repair work. I don't see the point.


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## robr2 (May 5, 2005)

thegave said:


> When you get a windshield crack or chip and you call one of those glass guys to come and fill/glue it, isn't the point to stop the crack creeping?
> 
> So what would cause the crack to creep anyway after it's been glued? The cracks in question weren't actual cracks but more like those little pin hole chips that create a small domed appearance behind them. But now there's a spider leg crack running away from each pin hole.
> 
> One obvious answer is user error but I'd like to think my glass guy is competent, he's done other work that's been fine


Because it's not a perfect system. I had Safelite come out recently to repair a chip like that. The tech was packing up and giving the windshield a final cleaning and it cracked right in front of him. Oh well.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

VDub2625 said:


> I've heard of seafoam fowling plugs (from the crap it cleans up), and it does eat away oil, so you'd want to change those after the treatment.


Thanks for the addition. I'll remember that. :beer:


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## benjamminfla (Aug 7, 2015)

Air and water do mix said:


> Thanks for the addition. I'll remember that. :beer:


Thanks (and to the others) for the advice. I hadn't thought about the fuel filter, but will definitely do that as well. I'll post back here if I learn anything after doing it that seems helpful.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

benjamminfla said:


> Thanks (and to the others) for the advice. I hadn't thought about the fuel filter, but will definitely do that as well. I'll post back here if I learn anything after doing it that seems helpful.


Feedback is good. :thumbup:

Well, unless you're setting up a sound system.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

robr2 said:


> Because it's not a perfect system.


Yep, and it also depends on the location, and how much stress there is. I feel that the fill systems just make the crack less noticeable, but if they are in a location with a lot of stress, it's going to crack no matter what.
I never get any of them filled unless they are in my vision. I enjoy getting nice new windshields every 6 years or so, since by that time, they're completely sandblasted.


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

Somehow my washer fluid stopped spraying in both of my cars during the same month ??? What typically causes this problem ?? 

(I just use the typical blue fluid from the gas station and it has not been freezing weather yet)

In my subaru only one side worked so I cleaned up the other side hoping that would fix it and now they dont work at all :banghead:


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## Lucian1988 (Mar 25, 2009)

got a question, I had my intake manifold replaced under warranty at 50K miles, and now im at 90K miles and I had to take the intake out to replace the water pump and carbon clean the engine. when I did, i noticed that the bracket between the intake manifold and the engine wasn't there. I bought all the parts, but now when I try to put in the screw in the hold its supposed to (right under the oil cooler on the engine block, see circled red area) it wont go in because im assuming dirt and crud got in there. I tried cleaning it out but it still wont go through (i kinda forced it and now a few of the threads got flatter). what else can I use to make it work? I dont want to install the intake without the bracket, because I have a feeling this might have caused my water pump to go out. 

this is the hole im talking about:


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

skydive_007 said:


> Somehow my washer fluid stopped spraying in both of my cars during the same month ??? What typically causes this problem ??
> 
> (I just use the typical blue fluid from the gas station and it has not been freezing weather yet)
> 
> In my subaru only one side worked so I cleaned up the other side hoping that would fix it and now they dont work at all :banghead:


There are two possibilities when it comes to only one working. Either the non working one is plugged up or the fluid isn't getting to it. If it's plugged, just remove the line and use a rubber tipped blow gun on a compressor (assuming you have access to one) and reinstall the line. If it's disconnected, then skip the first part and just reattach the line. 

Now that the second one has failed you don't know if the pump is running or not. Have someone else hit the button while you're under the hood and see if you can either hear it or feel it running. If so, then it's likely more of the things that stopped the first one from working. 

I recommend Prestone washer solvent. I used to like Rain-X, but it tends to eat rubber windshield seals so I switched and haven't had any issues with Prestone. Yes, it costs a bit more than the blue stuff, but you likely only need one gallon for the whole winter and it comes with a windshield treatment that helps rain/snow slide off. I think it's well worth the couple extra bucks. :beer:


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## Neezy13 (Jun 1, 2011)

Lucian1988 said:


> got a question, I had my intake manifold replaced under warranty at 50K miles, and now im at 90K miles and I had to take the intake out to replace the water pump and carbon clean the engine. when I did, i noticed that the bracket between the intake manifold and the engine wasn't there. I bought all the parts, but now when I try to put in the screw in the hold its supposed to (right under the oil cooler on the engine block, see circled red area) it wont go in because im assuming dirt and crud got in there. I tried cleaning it out but it still wont go through (i kinda forced it and now a few of the threads got flatter). what else can I use to make it work? I dont want to install the intake without the bracket, because I have a feeling this might have caused my water pump to go out.
> 
> this is the hole im talking about:


Have you tried a thread chaser? That should clean those threads up.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

Lucian1988 said:


> What else can I use to make it work? I dont want to install the intake without the bracket, because I have a feeling this might have caused my water pump to go out.


Get the thread size and chase it with a tap, preferably a bottoming tap. A regular tap only cuts a little thread at the end, as the designers assume that you're starting with no threads whatsoever. The bottoming tap will have full thread cutters all the way down so that you cut complete threads all the way.

As long as you get it straight it'll clean out the threads nicely. The big grooves in the tap give the dirt/metal somewhere to go, just insert, turn in, back off, turn in further, back off, turn in further, remove completely, clean out, reinsert, turn in, back off...

You basically want it to go in easily and keep backing out to remove bits from where it's biting into the metal. Every so often it's loaded up enough that you have to remove the tap completely to get the junk out of there. Some like to load the tap with grease in order to hold the contaminants for total removal. You still need to work it the same way otherwise, though.



Neezy13 said:


> Have you tried a thread chaser? That should clean those threads up.


Or that. If you can find a thread chaser it's basically the same thing, but isn't designed to cut threads in a thick chunk of steel. Of course, you don't need to do that, anyway. I'd still use the same procedure, though. :beer:


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

Lucian1988 said:


> got a question, I had my intake manifold replaced under warranty at 50K miles, and now im at 90K miles and I had to take the intake out to replace the water pump and carbon clean the engine. when I did, i noticed that the bracket between the intake manifold and the engine wasn't there. I bought all the parts, but now when I try to put in the screw in the hold its supposed to (right under the oil cooler on the engine block, see circled red area) it wont go in because im assuming dirt and crud got in there. I tried cleaning it out but it still wont go through (i kinda forced it and now a few of the threads got flatter). what else can I use to make it work? I dont want to install the intake without the bracket, because I have a feeling this might have caused my water pump to go out.
> 
> this is the hole im talking about:


Is there a piece of a broken bolt in there? Likely someone broke it off, or stripped that hole last time the intake was off, and they just left the bracket off. :banghead:


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## Lucian1988 (Mar 25, 2009)

so, do you think this would be a good set to buy and use? 

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-48-pc-sae-metric-thread-restorer-kit/p-00942275000P


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

Just buy the one size you need if this isn't something you'll use often.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

saron81 said:


> Is there a piece of a broken bolt in there? Likely someone broke it off, or stripped that hole last time the intake was off, and they just left the bracket off. :banghead:


Good point. If there's a broken bolt in there then the best thing to start with is a good penetrant. I use "Break Free" which is often available at gun shops and archery stores. Also a left-handed drill bit is beneficial, as it spins the "wrong way" and somewhat attempts to loosen while drilling rather than possibly pushing it in further. Left-handed bits aren't exactly commonplace, but if you can get one it's a better way to go. If you let the penetrant sit long enough (overnight at least) and are lucky then it might come right out with nothing further from you than attempting to drill the center out! I've had Break Free loosen a bolt that had been stuck for something like 20 years, but it had been soaking for days (maybe a week) and I reapplied every day or two.

Once you have a decent hole in it you can try to turn it out with an 'easy out'. It's kinda threaded and will pull itself in, where the taper will eventually be too wide and when you turn you start applying force to the broken bolt itself. When the broken bolt is 'overpowered' by the turning of the easy out it will come out. The trick is to drill the right sized hole and not to break the easy out, as it's hardened and you will not drill through it.


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## Lucian1988 (Mar 25, 2009)

Air and water do mix said:


> Good point. If there's a broken bolt in there then the best thing to start with is a good penetrant. I use "Break Free" which is often available at gun shops and archery stores. Also a left-handed drill bit is beneficial, as it spins the "wrong way" and somewhat attempts to loosen while drilling rather than possibly pushing it in further. Left-handed bits aren't exactly commonplace, but if you can get one it's a better way to go. If you let the penetrant sit long enough (overnight at least) and are lucky then it might come right out with nothing further from you than attempting to drill the center out! I've had Break Free loosen a bolt that had been stuck for something like 20 years, but it had been soaking for days (maybe a week) and I reapplied every day or two.
> 
> Once you have a decent hole in it you can try to turn it out with an 'easy out'. It's kinda threaded and will pull itself in, where the taper will eventually be too wide and when you turn you start applying force to the broken bolt itself. When the broken bolt is 'overpowered' by the turning of the easy out it will come out. The trick is to drill the right sized hole and not to break the easy out, as it's hardened and you will not drill through it.


very good question, I will actually go back in and investigate. Because I couldn't turn the screw in by hand, I assumed it was because of the threads. I'll go tonight and investigate.


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

Lucian1988 said:


> got a question, I had my intake manifold replaced under warranty at 50K miles, and now im at 90K miles and I had to take the intake out to replace the water pump and carbon clean the engine. when I did, i noticed that the bracket between the intake manifold and the engine wasn't there. I bought all the parts, but now when I try to put in the screw in the hold its supposed to (right under the oil cooler on the engine block, see circled red area) it wont go in


This isn't at all constructive but dude that ****ing sucks. :thumbdown: There's a good reason that is widely known as the "PITA bolt". **** man that makes me feel better about my luck in some way.

The answer has been posted above, chase those threads if nothing is broken off in there.


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

Air and water do mix said:


> There are two possibilities when it comes to only one working. Either the non working one is plugged up or the fluid isn't getting to it. If it's plugged, just remove the line and use a rubber tipped blow gun on a compressor (assuming you have access to one) and reinstall the line. If it's disconnected, then skip the first part and just reattach the line.
> 
> Now that the second one has failed you don't know if the pump is running or not. Have someone else hit the button while you're under the hood and see if you can either hear it or feel it running. If so, then it's likely more of the things that stopped the first one from working.
> 
> I recommend Prestone washer solvent. I used to like Rain-X, but it tends to eat rubber windshield seals so I switched and haven't had any issues with Prestone. Yes, it costs a bit more than the blue stuff, but you likely only need one gallon for the whole winter and it comes with a windshield treatment that helps rain/snow slide off. I think it's well worth the couple extra bucks. :beer:


So if I hear nothing under the hood then its likely the pump is no good ?? Ya know, I never checked for a fuse .... heading to the driveway now


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## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

*Camaro*

Why did GM discontinue the Camaro after 2002? I understand it was the beginning of the end for GM Corp, and the burst of the internet-boom/tech bubble contributed to a lackluster economy that year. However Ford had a new Mustang in the works which ended up being a hit for 2005. Why was it not possible for GM to do the same? Was the management that poor that they did not see that an XLR wouldn't sell, yet didn't allocate any resources to a Camaro successor?


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Bus question:
Why do most double-axle tour busses have the forward axle mounted with dually wheels, while the rearward axle has singles?


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## Lucian1988 (Mar 25, 2009)

I think its because the single axle is used for steering in tight turns? Maybe?


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## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

MrMook said:


> Bus question:
> Why do most double-axle tour busses have the forward axle mounted with dually wheels, while the rearward axle has singles?


DOT and cost. Weight of the bus requires a tag axle. You're only allowed so much weight per axle

A "normal" 5 axle semi (3 tractor, 2 trailer) is allowed 80,000 gross pounds. Spread rear axles on the trailer allow 85,000 pounds. Add tag axles to tractor and trailer and you're leagal up to 95,000, depending on the state.

The bus could run dual wheels on the tag axle but that adds the cost of two tires and wheels, when legally they dont need it. Also, floating tandems usually ride better than a single axle, which on a passenger bus matters.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Great info, thanks. Two follow-up questions:

1: Is that tag axle a drive axle? Or is only the forward "dually" axle driven? Or does it vary?

2: With regard to GVWR in general, do additional axles relate to the strength of the chassis itself (ability to physically handle a heavy load), or do the axles relate more to the weight distribution on the road surface? Meaning, are the DOT axle requirements set up to minimally impact infrastructure, or are they in place for handling/traction/structural stability as it relates to the GVW?


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## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

MrMook said:


> Great info, thanks. Two follow-up questions:
> 
> 1: Is that tag axle a drive axle? Or is only the forward "dually" axle driven? Or does it vary?
> 
> 2: With regard to GVWR in general, do additional axles relate to the strength of the chassis itself (ability to physically handle a heavy load), or do the axles relate more to the weight distribution on the road surface? Meaning, are the DOT axle requirements set up to minimally impact infrastructure, or are they in place for handling/traction/structural stability as it relates to the GVW?


1) As far as a typical tag axle, they are NOT driven, simply just an axle and wheels. You can have a "twin screw" where both axles are driven, but in this instance they are just there for weight distribution. 

2) GVWR for large trucks is out of my knowledge base, but I'll answer to what I can.

DOT requires a certain number of axles for a given weight for infrastructure reasons. More axles = more tires = more weight distribution to not tear up roads as much. I dont know if ordering a truck with a tag axle means a stronger frame or anything like that.


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## D_B_Jetta (Apr 27, 2006)

MrMook said:


> Great info, thanks. Two follow-up questions:
> 
> 1: Is that tag axle a drive axle? Or is only the forward "dually" axle driven? Or does it vary?
> 
> 2: With regard to GVWR in general, do additional axles relate to the strength of the chassis itself (ability to physically handle a heavy load), or do the axles relate more to the weight distribution on the road surface? Meaning, are the DOT axle requirements set up to minimally impact infrastructure, or are they in place for handling/traction/structural stability as it relates to the GVW?


1: The tag axle on most busses are not drive axles. 
They can also be lifted during low-traction situations to increase traction to the drive wheels. It's common to see the tag lifted when they are being driven on snowy/icy roads around here.
Source: My father drove tour busses for several years in the snow-belt in Southern Ontario.

2: Weight distribution regulations. Varies by country/state/province/local regulations.

:beer:
G


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Awesome. Thanks!


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## Mr.Veedubya (Sep 25, 2004)

D_B_Jetta said:


> 1: The tag axle on most busses are not drive axles.
> They can also be lifted during low-traction situations to increase traction to the drive wheels. It's common to see the tag lifted when they are being driven on snowy/icy roads around here.
> Source: My father drove tour busses for several years in the snow-belt in Southern Ontario.
> 
> ...


I only found this out after the fact. My parents have a Prevost coach (probably what your father drove) and I assumed leaving the tag axle down would give me more surface area and make it safer. I never lost any traction but was told later that I should have lifted the tag in that situation. :thumbup:

Another fun fact I learned on the maiden voyage from Oregon to Florida was when the Prevost is converted to a motorcoach, they weigh so much the tag axle can't actually lift completely off the ground. When you flip the switch to lift it, its just taking the weight off of it.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

during my holiday driving i noticed a lot of BMWs have dual exhaust, but only one tip appears to be dirty, the driver's side. I think i was behind an X3 or X1 and i think i saw the passenger side tip open up fora brief moment of acceleration on the freeway. Am i just seeing things? Are these faux dual exhaust systems? or, is the dual exhaust on a cutout?


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

A.Wilder said:


> during my holiday driving i noticed a lot of BMWs have dual exhaust, but only one tip appears to be dirty, the driver's side. I think i was behind an X3 or X1 and i think i saw the passenger side tip open up fora brief moment of acceleration on the freeway. Am i just seeing things? Are these faux dual exhaust systems? or, is the dual exhaust on a cutout?


They usually have little valves that open up in sport mode or when you get on it. Some people modify/remove them so they're always open.


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## Hostile (Nov 18, 2001)

A.Wilder said:


> during my holiday driving i noticed a lot of BMWs have dual exhaust, but only one tip appears to be dirty, the driver's side. I think i was behind an X3 or X1 and i think i saw the passenger side tip open up fora brief moment of acceleration on the freeway. Am i just seeing things? Are these faux dual exhaust systems? or, is the dual exhaust on a cutout?


It's an active flapper that opens up under some percentage of throttle application or at a certain rev range.

On my Golf R the two interior exhaust tips don't get as dirty as the outside tips because pipes leading to the inside tips are closed under 3500rpm. When I coded them open all the time the 4 tips got equally dirty just as fast.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I've seen that. My guess is more backpressure is more economical and torquey unless WOT is hit.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

VDub2625 said:


> I've seen that. My guess is more backpressure is more economical and torquey unless WOT is hit.


Either that or to make it quieter. I think it's a bit silly, but what can you do?


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## tyintegra (Sep 14, 2010)

MrMook said:


> Bus question:
> Why do most double-axle tour busses have the forward axle mounted with dually wheels, while the rearward axle has singles?





Lucian1988 said:


> I think its because the single axle is used for steering in tight turns? Maybe?


I think this is the main reason on these. Every time I see a bus with this type of axle setup, I see the wheels on the single axle turn.


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## VTVWGTi (May 24, 2015)

Drove behind a Dodge Power Wagon today and got to thinking that a pick up truck couldn't be further from a wagon. So what gives with the name?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

VTVWGTi said:


> Drove behind a Dodge Power Wagon today and got to thinking that a pick up truck couldn't be further from a wagon. So what gives with the name?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Because when they came out in the 40's, the "wagon" you're thinking of didn't exist. These were literally a "powered wagon". Think red flyer wagon. The 4x4 was rare for the day, the 8ft bed and fairly large size for the day gave it the ability to haul stuff anywhere you needed to go, like a wagon.


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## CaleDeRoo (Jul 30, 2011)

Anyone here owned a Mazda 2? Thinking of getting one for my brother (college freshman, needs a reliable car that's cheap to run). The car in question is a 2013 with 55k miles. Seller is asking 6 thousand something.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

CaleDeRoo said:


> Anyone here owned a Mazda 2? Thinking of getting one for my brother (college freshman, needs a reliable car that's cheap to run). The car in question is a 2013 with 55k miles. Seller is asking 6 thousand something.


Friend has one. Peppy, reliable and agile little cars, and with the MT, it's pretty fun too. (apparently, since I've never driven one)

But don't expect much in terms of refinement or sound attenuation. 

I say it's a good buy.

Only other subcompact worth looking at is the Fit, imo.


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## CaleDeRoo (Jul 30, 2011)

worth_fixing said:


> Friend has one. Peppy, reliable and agile little cars, and with the MT, it's pretty fun too. (apparently, since I've never driven one)
> 
> But don't expect much in terms of refinement or sound attenuation.
> 
> ...


I think this will plenty refined for him. His last car was my 12A swapped B2200 I gave him with welded shocks :laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

Is braking linear?

Example to illustrate the question. Stomp on the brakes at 60mph and hold them until you're stopped. Is the acceleration from 60-50mph the same as from 30-20mph? It should be, right, if we assume no sliding, but that we are at the limit of traction (in other words, ABS is working)? To slow 10mph should take the same amount of time, regardless of what "section" of the whole stop you are looking at. Right? (Full disclosure; still working on my morning coffee)


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## CaleDeRoo (Jul 30, 2011)

Rob Cote said:


> Is braking linear?
> 
> Example to illustrate the question. Stomp on the brakes at 60mph and hold them until you're stopped. Is the acceleration from 60-50mph the same as from 30-20mph? It should be, right, if we assume no sliding, but that we are at the limit of traction (in other words, ABS is working)? To slow 10mph should take the same amount of time, regardless of what "section" of the whole stop you are looking at. Right? (Full disclosure; still working on my morning coffee)


Id assume no depending on how the rotors/calipers/pads/fluid react to heat


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## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

Rob Cote said:


> Is braking linear?
> 
> Example to illustrate the question. Stomp on the brakes at 60mph and hold them until you're stopped. Is the acceleration from 60-50mph the same as from 30-20mph? It should be, right, if we assume no sliding, but that we are at the limit of traction (in other words, ABS is working)? To slow 10mph should take the same amount of time, regardless of what "section" of the whole stop you are looking at. Right? (Full disclosure; still working on my morning coffee)


Theoretically, yes, but in real world, no. Fluid compression curves, heat dissipation curves, flex line expansion curves, etc, all conflate to make it not really linear, but kind of close.



Question - if I BRZ, must I also NASIOC?


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## 88c900t (Jul 7, 2014)

worth_fixing said:


> Friend has one. Peppy, reliable and agile little cars, and with the MT, it's pretty fun too. (apparently, since I've never driven one)
> 
> But don't expect much in terms of refinement or sound attenuation.
> 
> ...


The Yaris is also worth a look in that class (don't laugh). Cheaper than the fit with much more powerful air conditioning, and they are as simple as a modern car gets. It even can clear 60mph in the 8 second range.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

Rob Cote said:


> Is braking linear?
> 
> Example to illustrate the question. Stomp on the brakes at 60mph and hold them until you're stopped. Is the acceleration from 60-50mph the same as from 30-20mph? It should be, right, if we assume no sliding, but that we are at the limit of traction (in other words, ABS is working)? To slow 10mph should take the same amount of time, regardless of what "section" of the whole stop you are looking at. Right? (Full disclosure; still working on my morning coffee)


No

The largest reason is mu variation of the friction during a stop because the impact from heat. 
Also there can be initial bite, which the on set of decel is much higher at the begging than towards the end.
Also contributions of various parts of the system will respond differently case by case

During brake testing with a decel meter typically whomever is running a test, to match specific decel level (0.4 or 0.6G) has to very the input force into the pedal to achieve a some what constant decel level.


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## Aonarch (Dec 4, 2006)

CaleDeRoo said:


> Anyone here owned a Mazda 2? Thinking of getting one for my brother (college freshman, needs a reliable car that's cheap to run). The car in question is a 2013 with 55k miles. Seller is asking 6 thousand something.


You really can't go wrong. 

I want to buy one as a run around car. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

GTijoejoe said:


> No
> 
> The largest reason is mu variation of the friction during a stop because the impact from heat.
> Also there can be initial bite, which the on set of decel is much higher at the begging than towards the end.
> ...


Awesome thank you. :thumbup:

So the brake system loses efficiency as parts heat up, yes? That makes sense since braking is achieved by converting kinetic energy into heat.


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## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

GTijoejoe said:


> During brake testing with a decel meter typically whomever is running a test, to match specific decel level (0.4 or 0.6G) has to very the input force into the pedal to achieve a some what constant decel level.


You a friend of Mr Greening, too? :thumbup:


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

88c900t said:


> The Yaris is also worth a look in that class (don't laugh). Cheaper than the fit with much more powerful air conditioning, and they are as simple as a modern car gets.* It even can clear 60mph in the 8 second range. *


Important disclaimer: with the 5-speed. Other cars in this class are okay with more modern automatics -- but, like the 2, the Yaris automatic is an ancient 4-speed unit that sucks the life out of the car. The steering is slow (ratio-wise) but it is fun with a 5-speed and the handling really perks up with good set of tires -- I have H-rated 175/65-15 summer Michelins (base Mini tire) on mine and it has tons of grip and surprisingly neutral handling (back will come around with a flick).


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## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

what's the deal with axle ratios and why do they matter? Is it a drag racing thing? The roadkill guys talk about it fairly often and I was looking at mustangs on ford.com and see an option for a 3.15 and 3.55, both limited slip.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Dravenport said:


> what's the deal with axle ratios and why do they matter? Is it a drag racing thing? The roadkill guys talk about it fairly often and I was looking at mustangs on ford.com and see an option for a 3.15 and 3.55, both limited slip.


The higher number the slower the wheels turn. It's a fine balance between the engine and power to the rear wheels. zDifferent ratios can be for power of fuel efficiency.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

barry2952 said:


> The higher number the slower the wheels turn. It's a fine balance between the engine and power to the rear wheels. zDifferent ratios can be for power of fuel efficiency.


To add to that its the high number of the rotations of the drive shaft multiplied by the number of rotations of the rear axle. For every rotation of the rear wheel the drive shaft will turn 3.15 or 3.55 times for every single rotation of the wheel, using your examples.


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## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

Dravenport said:


> what's the deal with axle ratios and why do they matter? Is it a drag racing thing? The roadkill guys talk about it fairly often and I was looking at mustangs on ford.com and see an option for a 3.15 and 3.55, both limited slip.


I think with modern 8 and 10 speed automatics we'll start to see less choices for rear end ratios. Different ratios give you a different torque multiplier, and you want to see the the right one for different reasons. 

In drag racing, you want a short gear(numerically high, 4.11) for quick acceleration off the line. But with a 3spd auto, you might hit your top speed before the end of the 1/4, slowing you down. Or you might have to shift one extra time, again slowing. So you'd need a taller(smaller 3.23) to balance.

Towing is the same way. You want a short gear for torque multiplication to tow more efficiently. With older 3 and 4 speeds, it helped "close" the ratio between shifts, made starting easier, but limited speed. 

Now we have tons of gears with extremely close ratios that help to negate that. A single standard ratio can be selected, but you still get deep starting gears with multiple over drives to help cruising rpm


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## GruuvenNorth (Dec 13, 2006)

^
Nice. i've always wondered that as well :thumbup:

My brakes don't have that "bite" as much as they used to. I have to press the pedal harder to slow down. When its cold in the am, they work awesome for like 200' then it's back to how it was. Pads still have a lot of life left, rotors are clean and rear shoes and drums are clean are still beefy. I bled the brakes many times, still nothing. Could it be that the pad material is not good or defective? They are OEM Toyota pads.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

GruuvenNorth said:


> ^
> Nice. i've always wondered that as well :thumbup:
> 
> My brakes don't have that "bite" as much as they used to. I have to press the pedal harder to slow down. When its cold in the am, they work awesome for like 200' then it's back to how it was. Pads still have a lot of life left, rotors are clean and rear shoes and drums are clean are still beefy. I bled the brakes many times, still nothing. Could it be that the pad material is not good or defective? They are OEM Toyota pads.


Pads can glaze from heat and get worse over time. Sand the pads to fresh material and be a little easier on your brakes. Your testing repeated deceleration only hurts their performance.


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## GruuvenNorth (Dec 13, 2006)

barry2952 said:


> Pads can glaze from heat and get worse over time. Sand the pads to fresh material and be a little easier on your brakes. Your testing repeated deceleration only hurts their performance.


I figured they would most likely be that too...just never thought pad material can actually glaze. I'll change the pads in general. They're still new but for what they cost, I'll replace them. Thanks :thumbup:


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

GruuvenNorth said:


> I figured they would most likely be that too...just never thought pad material can actually glaze. I'll change the pads in general. They're still new but for what they cost, I'll replace them. Thanks :thumbup:


There's really no need to replace them. A sheet of 60-grit sandpaper or a coarse sidewalk will work great. The glazing is right on the surface and sands right off. It's a common problem.


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## GruuvenNorth (Dec 13, 2006)

barry2952 said:


> There's really no need to replace them. A sheet of 60-grit sandpaper or a coarse sidewalk will work great. The glazing is right on the surface and sands right off. It's a common problem.


I'll give that a shot. Makes sense. I just have to wait for the weather to warm up :banghead:


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## PerL (Jan 9, 2001)

barry2952 said:


> The glazing is right on the surface and sands right off. It's a common problem.


Especially in the winter, with the road salt getting on the brake pads


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

A.Wilder said:


> during my holiday driving i noticed a lot of BMWs have dual exhaust, but only one tip appears to be dirty, the driver's side. I think i was behind an X3 or X1 and i think i saw the passenger side tip open up fora brief moment of acceleration on the freeway. Am i just seeing things? Are these faux dual exhaust systems? or, is the dual exhaust on a cutout?


 Pulling this one up for clarification. It's for sound level - regs need to be met, you know. 
The muffler is a dual-path setup. The always-open outlet is on the long (quieter) path thru the muffler; the flap-controlled outlet is on the short (louder) path. 

The flap is closed at startup (as soon as it can), and at idle & low-engine-output conditions; it opens at the point where the engineers deem necessary for performance.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

PerL said:


> Especially in the winter, with the road salt getting on the brake pads


I never gave that much thought, but there certainly would be corrosion and rust.


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## S1ack (Aug 18, 2005)

On a home air conditioner...cycling power on the compressor = bad. So much so there are overrides, timeouts, etc...
On a vehicle air compressor....If I hit the econ button it's off, hit it again its on, hit it again it's off. Rinse repeat. Doesn't seem to be a a time delay. Well it seems like that on my B5 A4.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

S1ack said:


> On a home air conditioner...cycling power on the compressor = bad. So much so there are overrides, timeouts, etc...
> On a vehicle air compressor....If I hit the econ button it's off, hit it again its on, hit it again it's off. Rinse repeat. Doesn't seem to be a a time delay. Well it seems like that on my B5 A4.


I've kinda wondered that too... on Mk2s (and VWs in general), the older ones are pretty simply wired (switch, temp and pressure sensors, compressor). By the late Mk2s (and Passat B3/4), there are timer relays for that (the ac may say it's switched on, but it's only powered when the timer relay deems it ok, after being off a certain time etc). Mk3s and newer use fancy separate controllers for all the cooling system (fans, electric water pump, AC), and those I assume have logic like that built in too. I assume other manufacturers evolved the same way.


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

Can someone help me out? A long time ago, there was a website that described in absolutely brutal detail how to purchase/lease/finance a new car. It was like a 5-parter of just walls of text (and for some reason I remember a yellow background). It was something like thecarguy.com something something but for the life of me I can't find it. Anyone know what I'm on about?


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## patrikman (May 10, 2008)

S1ack said:


> On a home air conditioner...cycling power on the compressor = bad. So much so there are overrides, timeouts, etc...
> On a vehicle air compressor....If I hit the econ button it's off, hit it again its on, hit it again it's off. Rinse repeat. Doesn't seem to be a a time delay. Well it seems like that on my B5 A4.


Home style units use an electric motor powered by AC current, those types of devices don't really like being switched off and on....it's very hard on relays and motors. Plus, you'll have bratty kids doing on/off/on/off for 7 min straight in a home. I'm sure that's likely part of it. 

In your car, the work normally being done by an electric motor is being done by your engine, using DC power to switch the clutch off and on. On a car the motor is being regularly switched off and on by the ECU to cycle the pump.


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## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

jebglx said:


> what causes a windshield wiper to "chatter" across the windshield?
> even when it's relatively new?
> bill


Even new cars (new windshields, new wiper blades) suffer this.

Everyone gives the "stock" answers - clean (clay bar, polish) the windshield, replace the wiper blades, clean the blades with de-natured alcohol, etc., etc. - but there does't seem to be a real solution.


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## Neezy13 (Jun 1, 2011)

g-man_ae said:


> Even new cars (new windshields, new wiper blades) suffer this.
> 
> Everyone gives the "stock" answers - clean (clay bar, polish) the windshield, replace the wiper blades, clean the blades with de-natured alcohol, etc., etc. - but there does't seem to be a real solution.


Wow, that's an old question. I am uniquely qualified to answer it though since I am an engineer at the wiper manufacturer with the #1 market share in North America for oem wiper systems.

1st - clean the windshield (as you stated). We when we run validation testing, we use a cleaner that is a glass stripper. It removes dirt, grime, rubber build-up, etc from the glass. Rain-X will cause chatter in light rain/mist conditions and this cleaner will remove it.

2nd - clean the blades. Do not use denatured alcohol. This will strip the graphite coating on the rubber and can cause the rubber to deteriorate. I typically just run my sponge down the blade rubber when washing my car. That should be sufficient. If you have tar or other deposits that won't come off with a simple wipe down, then replace the blades.

3rd - replace you blades yearly. The rubber degrades in the sun and performance decreases. You will also notice that after some time, the rubber becomes permanently deformed and lays over to one side. This causes excess noise and chatter when the blade reverses on the glass during operation.

Beyond those items, the cause could be the pressure that the arm spring puts on the blade pressing it onto the glass is too high or too low, the metal vertebra that control the blade curvature could be the wrong curvature for the glass, the glass could have variation over the surface, or the arm twist could be too high or low causing the blade to lean too much to one side or the other through the wipe pattern.


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

Neezy13 said:


> 1st - clean the windshield (as you stated). We when we run validation testing, we use a cleaner that is a glass stripper. It removes dirt, grime, rubber build-up, etc from the glass. Rain-X will cause chatter in light rain/mist conditions and this cleaner will remove it.


What is the name of the cleaner, dammit!


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## Neezy13 (Jun 1, 2011)

Elite_Deforce said:


> What is the name of the cleaner, dammit!


Lol, I knew someone would ask. We originally had some cleaner from Japan. I have no idea what it was called. We switched to this stuff since it was available locally and it's basically the same:










First listing I found on Amazon for it:
https://www.amazon.com/No-Touch-Auto-Glass-Stripper/dp/B000COBXFU#immersive-view_1489632682231

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Same principles apply for smearing in addition to chattering? My wipers run smoothly but they always seem to smear the water around. I clean both glass and blades fairly regularly with some kind of automotive glass cleaner but the name escapes me


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

thegave said:


> some kind of automotive glass cleaner but the name escapes me





thegave said:


> but the name escapes me





thegave said:


> glass cleaner


Could it be...










I find this **** to be the ****. This talk of glass cleaning has got me thinking about why newspaper works so well for it. Does anyone know?


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

Rob Cote said:


> Could it be...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Likely due to how the ink is applied to it, as well as the newsprint paper itself being rather dense yet thin.

Sprayway is solid stuff, I also use Stoner IG and white vinegar at times.


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## Neezy13 (Jun 1, 2011)

thegave said:


> Same principles apply for smearing in addition to chattering? My wipers run smoothly but they always seem to smear the water around. I clean both glass and blades fairly regularly with some kind of automotive glass cleaner but the name escapes me


Technically wipers work by smearing. They spread the water into a uniform thin film which is invisible and push the excess water to the edges to run off. If you see the smearing, I would guess that it is the blade curvature or arm pressure (or could be something else but this is most likely).

Not all aftermarket blades are created equal either. Most of the time you pick the blade based solely on the length. Bosch and maybe some others typically will have an "A" model and a "B" model at each length to differentiate between different blade curvature. Picking the right one will make a difference. The company I work for doesn't sell their blades aftermarket, they are only available through dealer service. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


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## Neezy13 (Jun 1, 2011)

TooFitToQuit said:


> Likely due to how the ink is applied to it, as well as the newsprint paper itself being rather dense yet thin.


I think this is why newspaper works. The fibers are longer and more dense than paper towels so there is less lint. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Rob Cote said:


> Could it be...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Oh if only. It's a large white bottle with a blue label and probably not much better than mildly soapy water. Spray nozzle available separately :screwy: 

What's with all the hate against Rain-x (according to Amazon reviews of Glass Stripper)?


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## Neezy13 (Jun 1, 2011)

thegave said:


> Oh if only. It's a large white bottle with a blue label and probably not much better than mildly soapy water. Spray nozzle available separately :screwy:
> 
> What's with all the hate against Rain-x (according to Amazon reviews of Glass Stripper)?


I think a lot of people don't apply the Rain-X correctly and end up with streaks or smearing because they didn't buff it out like you are supposed to. I use Rain-X on my vehicles, but it will cause blade chatter as it starts to wear off or in light mist situations.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

Neezy13 said:


> I think a lot of people don't apply the Rain-X correctly


Yep... Rain-X works great if you follow the directions.

Even when I'm in a hurry, and don't follow directions, it still works pretty good. Beaded water is easy to look through, even if the window is a bit hazy. Smeared water, not so much.


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## bombardi (Mar 28, 2004)

What's the normal procedure for repairing body panels? Recently someone hit my car while parked and crunched the rear quarter panel.

I went to a body shop for a quote and out of curiosity asked how they usually repair these type of things. He showed and explained how they pull as much of the panel out, grind down to the metal, then use body fill. The body fill is what made me suspicious. Is that normal or should I look else where? Is this the best method for something minor? How does this hold up long term or for future detail jobs (clay, wax, polish, etc.)? Will I notice any blemishes?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

bombardi said:


> What's the normal procedure for repairing body panels? Recently someone hit my car while parked and crunched the rear quarter panel.
> 
> I went to a body shop for a quote and out of curiosity asked how they usually repair these type of things. He showed and explained how they pull as much of the panel out, grind down to the metal, then use body fill. The body fill is what made me suspicious. Is that normal or should I look else where? Is this the best method for something minor? How does this hold up long term or for future detail jobs (clay, wax, polish, etc.)? Will I notice any blemishes?


Body filler is used on all cars, to some degree. Our 356 Porsche came from the factory with a generous layer of plastic filler. 

However, the metal should be so close to the original position that the layer is so thin you can make a refrigerator magnet stick. If it falls off, there's too much filler.

Also. If you want good job be prepared to leave your car for a while as each layer of filler, primer, paint and clear coat have to outgas properly before the next layer is applied.


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

bombardi said:


> What's the normal procedure for repairing body panels? Recently someone hit my car while parked and crunched the rear quarter panel.
> 
> I went to a body shop for a quote and out of curiosity asked how they usually repair these type of things. He showed and explained how they pull as much of the panel out, grind down to the metal, then use body fill. The body fill is what made me suspicious. Is that normal or should I look else where? Is this the best method for something minor? How does this hold up long term or for future detail jobs (clay, wax, polish, etc.)? Will I notice any blemishes?


On modern cars, my body guy just replaces the panel if it is bad enough. I suppose it depends on your situation.


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## bombardi (Mar 28, 2004)

barry2952 said:


> Body filler is used on all cars, to some degree. Our 356 Porsche came from the factory with a generous layer of plastic filler.
> 
> However, the metal should be so close to the original position that the layer is so thin you can make a refrigerator magnet stick. If it falls off, there's too much filler.
> 
> Also. If you want good job be prepared to leave your car for a while as each layer of filler, primer, paint and clear coat have to outgas properly before the next layer is applied.


Okay, that's good to know. The shop owner did state the car would be in the shop 3-5 days, and the damage isn't severe, the panel is just kicked into fender well. Thanks!


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## VWmk3GTI (May 4, 2013)

Do you have to gap dual electrode spark plugs?


----------



## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

2-part question:

1) Why are manufacturers going back to reflector housings for LED headlamps?










2) Why don't LED conversions work well in halogen reflector housings?


----------



## ixamnis (Aug 24, 2015)

Why does every Chevy Suburban I ever see have ONE (and only one) of its driving lights out?


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## 88c900t (Jul 7, 2014)

ixamnis said:


> Why does every Chevy Suburban I ever see have ONE (and only one) of its driving lights out?


I've noticed that, too on 900 chassis'.


It really bugs me, that on cars with LED DRLs one goes out when the signal is in use.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

g-man_ae said:


> 1) Why are manufacturers going back to reflector housings for LED headlamps?
> 
> 
> 2) Why don't LED conversions work well in halogen reflector housings?



My guess for #1 is that they're cheaper and just as effective (ie better than halogen reflectors, which nearly every other option is). 

For #2, the answer is the same as why HID isn't good for reflectores designed for halogens: the light isn't emitted in the same way, in the exact same place, which throws off the reflector's light beams. They're only aimed well when the source is where they expect it to be. Halogens emit light from a thin line of filament that is emitted 360* around the filament. LEDs are sets of individual lights, and direct their light to less than 90* or so usually. The reflectors take each of those pinpricks of light and aim them ever so slightly not where it should be.


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

g-man_ae said:


> 1) Why are manufacturers going back to reflector housings for LED headlamps?
> 
> 
> 2) Why don't LED conversions work well in halogen reflector housings?


1) Cost. Cheaper than projectors.

2) LEDs that produce enough light for headlight use (CREE XHP line almost exclusively) aren't very wide of output. To have enough to cover 360 degrees would be a super bulky, super hot bulb that would likely not be able to dissipate the heat out the base even with the copper pipe method. Furthermore, the optic in the headlight is designed for the tiny filament of the halogen bulb, and an LED is massive in comparison, so even if you achieved a perfect 360-degree coverage with sufficiently-powerful LEDs that were somehow magically cooled adequately, the reflector couldn't focus all of the light properly. All of these issues combine to create sort of a black hole of issues running an LED bulb in a halogen reflector.


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## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

*Audi Calipers*

I was at an Audi dealer on Saturday and I was confused by the front calipers on the new A4 and A6. They look to be fixed but I tapped on it and it sounded hollow so I wasn't sure if they were floating calipers with a sheath over them. I haven't seen anything like this before. What's the purpose of this?


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## Egz (May 30, 2002)

ixamnis said:


> Why does every Chevy Suburban I ever see have ONE (and only one) of its driving lights out?


I think it has to do with the bulb socket design. I had a Buick Century that kept eating its DRL bulb, and once I replaced the socket, it lasted much longer. But yea, it applies to most GM vehicles, always with one bulb out.


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## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

88c900t said:


> It really bugs me, that on cars with LED DRLs one goes out when the signal is in use.


this bugs me as well


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

The DRL goes out when you activate the turn signal to emphasize the turn signal. It's engineered and designed into the function. If you just alternate an amber colour with a super bright white, the amber gets washed out and lost.

Why one headlight burns out on Suburban's? Crappy extension wiring. The wiring for headlights goes to one headlight, then uses an extension to bridge from one to the other. That wiring usually will run across the front of the vehicle. environmental conditions and an additional connection introduce more potential points for failure or stress to the actual bulb.


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

DonPatrizio said:


> I was at an Audi dealer on Saturday and I was confused by the front calipers on the new A4 and A6. They look to be fixed but I tapped on it and it sounded hollow so I wasn't sure if they were floating calipers with a sheath over them. I haven't seen anything like this before. What's the purpose of this?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

rstolz said:


> Just a tweaked carriage design to make the brakes look bigger than they are.


Okay thanks that's what I thought. It does make floating calipers look much nicer though. Also, the $132,000 RS7 in the showroom had floating rear calipers. :screwy: You get fixed calipers all-round on a $38,000 Camaro.


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## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

Two questions, fixed vs floating calipers? Explain?

Also, teach me about car washes. Does the "wax" spray do anything? Are you supposed to wash it off? Is the spot free rinse actually spot free?


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## Nealric (Feb 16, 2013)

DonPatrizio said:


> Okay thanks that's what I thought. It does make floating calipers look much nicer though. Also, the $132,000 RS7 in the showroom had floating rear calipers. :screwy: You get fixed calipers all-round on a $38,000 Camaro.


There are some disadvantages to fixed calipers. Nice discussion of pros/cons here: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/floating-vs-fixed-calipers-opinions/92365/page1/

For a big luxury car like the RS7, floating calipers make a lot of sense.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

VR6JH said:


> Two questions, fixed vs floating calipers? Explain?


"Floating" calipers have pistons only on one side (usually just one) and the other brake pad is pushed by the entire caliper moving on slides so that pressure is equalized. A "fixed" caliper is mounted rigidly to the spindle and has at least one piston on each side. Advantages are a better feel and as long as the pistons themselves don't get stuck you have better wear characteristics. Any 4-piston caliper is going to have 2 pistons per side. The 4 piston type goes back long way, including the BMW 2002, mid '60s Thunderbird and the two piston fixed types were on any air-cooled VW that had disks ('67 and later). Early fixed calipers had either two halves with seals between the passages for fluid or sometimes two brake hoses going to the caliper to pressurize both sides.

I'm not sure what the first instance of a single piston caliper was, but I believe it came a bit later and is mostly done because of cost.


----------



## BGD_011 (May 20, 2009)

*Heating*

Why do certain cars get warmer faster than others? In turn producing heat sooner?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

BGD_011 said:


> Why do certain cars get warmer faster than others? In turn producing heat sooner?


Mostly, it depends on the temperature at which the thermostat opens. The longer the thermostat stays closed the faster the engine will heat up.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Iirc diesels take longer to warm up (and produce heat) than gas, so many diesel cars have electric heaters to help with defrost etc


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## CaleDeRoo (Jul 30, 2011)

I know x-pipes generally make exhaust sounds higher (cancel out the lower frequencies?)

Would adding a second x-pipe exaggerate the effect?


----------



## VWVan (Feb 17, 2000)

I did the front brake pads on my Jeep last night. It was making some horrible noise when braking and turning, ie parking.

I had to get a new jack, and jack stands as this is my first SUV in 25 years of driving and my jack and stuff were for cars. Mine would not get the Jeep high enough to get a wheel off the ground. I could of used the god awful stock jack but nobody aint got time for that thing.

Any ways I get it jacked up, wheels off, get the caliper off which was a beyatch. Had to use the jack handle for leverage to break it free.

I'm looking at the caliper, oh snap. Yes, I forgot to get a big c clamp the last time I did the front brakes on my wifes mazda 3. How the hell am I going to push the brake piston in?

If you are stuck in a bind and need to press in your brake piston and don't have a c-clamp. Yes, you can use a small vice.:laugh: Just make sure the caliper is secured to the spring or something.


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## cwescapexlt4x4 (Jan 2, 2003)

for Diesels also, they have thick cast iron blocks typically that take MUCH longer to warm up hence the electric heaters (thankfully) to produce interior heat while the engine is warming up.


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## Nicefeet (Dec 29, 2009)

How do parts travel so fast from a depot to a dealer? Are they airfreighted? Do they have dedicated logistics?


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## cournot (Jul 10, 2015)

BGD_011 said:


> Why do certain cars get warmer faster than others? In turn producing heat sooner?


As Barry mentioned, depends on the thermostat, also depends on the thermal mass of the motor itself, the amount of warmup timing retard the engine is running, and whether or not the engine has an oil cooler/heat exchanger.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Nicefeet said:


> How do parts travel so fast from a depot to a dealer? Are they airfreighted? Do they have dedicated logistics?


For my dealership, we can place orders from VW's regional warehouse in NJ for next day (up until 1pm), using a dedicated carrier. They also use FedEx (Express, air) for late or rush orders (up to 3pm, and sometimes later for warranty), or if the part needs to come from another warehouse (VW has 7 in the USA [NJ, WI, Jacksonville, Knoxville, Fort Worth, LA, and Sacramento], 2 in Canada [Vacouver and Toronto], plus the Northeast [at NJ] and Southeast [at Jacksonville I think?] regional warehouses which supply the main warehouses).

I don't know how other brands do it, but I've called for parts up to 5pm and some of them can still get it for next day, so my guess is location matters hugely here.


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## thetopdog (Nov 11, 2008)

I was out with a girl last night and she told me her best friend's dad has a Gallardo that he modified. She said he "bored out" the engine (I wasn't even aware people did this to Gallardos instead of just going forced induction) and she said he let her drive it and she got it up to 210mph. I was very skeptical but didn't say anything because I don't like to call people on their bull$hit unless I'm 100% sure, but I'm not even sure it's physically possible for a naturally aspirated Gallardo to get up to 210mph (never-mind the difficulty of doing 210mph on public roads). What do you guys think? What is the most powerful naturally aspirated Gallardo out there and is it even capable of 210mph?


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## Dash27 (Jun 21, 2010)

Question: Just had my brakes done, now they are squeaking at low speed stops and feel off to me. I'm bringing it back tomorrow but I wanted to know if this is a common thing. Meaning is this a huge red flag "don't go to this shop anymore!" or is it a "yeah this can happen, just needs a tweak to fix. It's no big deal"


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## spitfirevr6 (Jul 15, 2007)

Dash27 said:


> Question: Just had my brakes done, now they are squeaking at low speed stops and feel off to me. I'm bringing it back tomorrow but I wanted to know if this is a common thing. Meaning is this a huge red flag "don't go to this shop anymore!" or is it a "yeah this can happen, just needs a tweak to fix. It's no big deal"


Were the brakes burnished after new hardware(pads/rotors) was installed? You will have different pedal feel after replacing brake components, but it should feel better not worse if properly burnished.


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

What's 'harder' between paint and headlamp plastic?

I ask because the thought of wetsanding paint gives me chills, but I haven't thought twice about sanding/polishing faded headlamp lenses.


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## Lucian1988 (Mar 25, 2009)

does a tune get rid of the rev hang on the 2.0T VW engines? (on a 2012 VW CC). Its gotten worse lately, or maybe it just feels like it.


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

Why can't I find a visual guide of removing my FJ Cruiser's front fenders (not flares)?


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

Lucian1988 said:


> does a tune get rid of the rev hang on the 2.0T VW engines? (on a 2012 VW CC). Its gotten worse lately, or maybe it just feels like it.


If it's gotten worse, I'd check for a vacuum leak.


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## jamerican1 (Dec 8, 2005)

Lucian1988 said:


> does a tune get rid of the rev hang on the 2.0T VW engines? (on a 2012 VW CC). Its gotten worse lately, or maybe it just feels like it.


I cured mine with a lightweight flywheel.


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## Lucian1988 (Mar 25, 2009)

saron81 said:


> If it's gotten worse, I'd check for a vacuum leak.


blah, i feared this. Whats the best way to check for one? 



jamerican1 said:


> I cured mine with a lightweight flywheel.


not a bad idea, I did plan that whenever I replaced the clutch, id do the flywheel with a lighter one.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Car whisperers... what does my spark plug tell you?


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## Wolfslash16 (Aug 1, 2014)

thegave said:


> Car whisperers... what does my spark plug tell you?


Why does that look rusty... You shouldn't have rust on a spark plug unless it's been sitting for a long time, or there's coolant getting into the engine. Also, if it is running, I don't see any carbon or ash on it, so it doesn't look like it's firing, or it hasn't fired in awhile.


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## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

What are these big canisters in the intake tract? It's not the first time I've seen them pop up, the first being at a VW car show where some 2.0Ts had them.


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## xmaciek82x (Jan 15, 2004)

^ Filters.

http://www.bmcairfilters.com/eng/air-intake-systems/cda-carbon-dynamic-airbox/4/c2


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## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

Okay thanks. The first time I saw them I didn't have an idea.


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## MXTHOR3 (Jan 10, 2003)

cwescapexlt4x4 said:


> for Diesels also, they have thick cast iron blocks typically that take MUCH longer to warm up hence the electric heaters (thankfully) to produce interior heat while the engine is warming up.


This along with not running as hot as gasser engines, along with them having higher thermal efficiency (ie transferring a lot less heat to the cooling system)


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Wolfslash16 said:


> Why does that look rusty... You shouldn't have rust on a spark plug unless it's been sitting for a long time, or there's coolant getting into the engine. Also, if it is running, I don't see any carbon or ash on it, so it doesn't look like it's firing, or it hasn't fired in awhile.


The car _had_ been sitting, for a really long time, but it's been driven quite a lot recently. I suppose it's time to change them out then. 

Coolant getting into the engine would be head gasket issue? Coolant does seem to disappear but I'm not sure if it's coming out of the expansion cap or going elsewhere.


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

thegave said:


> The car _had_ been sitting, for a really long time, but it's been driven quite a lot recently. I suppose it's time to change them out then.
> 
> Coolant getting into the engine would be head gasket issue? Coolant does seem to disappear but I'm not sure if it's coming out of the expansion cap or going elsewhere.


They look OKAY to me.

From where I'm sitting, the brown looks more like the usual color of a working spark plug with a 'close enough' mixture rather than corrosion, which would show must more pitting. If you've been running it a lot recently, a coolant/head gasket leak would present as a clean plug, as the coolant is essentially steam cleaning the combustion chamber. A perfect mixture would be a lighter brown, but that's within 'OK' to me and definitely not yet reached 'too rich' black/sooty/

I'd say replace them as a cheap service item since you've pulled them out, but they don't show any signs of bad things happening. Once you put new plugs in, run it a few weeks and check the color again for a tan/brown color to indicate things are all good.

What car it is?


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## RobMarkToo (Apr 21, 2012)

What caused old gasoline engined cars to do that thing called "dieseling" where you'd switch off the ignition and the engine would continue to run badly for another 10-15 seconds occasionally. Was it a purely carburetor related issue?


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

RobMarkToo said:


> What caused old gasoline engined cars to do that thing called "dieseling" where you'd switch off the ignition and the engine would continue to run badly for another 10-15 seconds occasionally. Was it a purely carburetor related issue?


It was a combination of carburetors and emission controls/cheap fuel. As octane went down the propensity of knocking went up. Couple that with a carburetor which functions with vacuum rather than pressurized fuel and high head temps brought on by emission regulations and you have a hot engine trying to shut off but the fuel ignites (detonation) because of heat and pressure. Since the vacuum created by the intake stroke keeps happening the carburetor continues to let fuel flow through it.

What was the fix before fuel injection? They often added a fuel cutoff valve. It was a small solenoid that tapped into the idle passageway (circuit) of the carburetor and it had to be supplied power to keep that circuit open. As soon as you shut off the key it would close and stop the flow of fuel through the idle circuit.


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## dirtyfingers (Apr 29, 2007)

If you bring your vehicle in for service and they need to take the wheels off for whatever reason is it fair for them to charge if you also want a tire rotate?


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

drecian said:


> They look OKAY to me.
> 
> From where I'm sitting, the brown looks more like the usual color of a working spark plug with a 'close enough' mixture rather than corrosion, which would show must more pitting. If you've been running it a lot recently, a coolant/head gasket leak would present as a clean plug, as the coolant is essentially steam cleaning the combustion chamber. A perfect mixture would be a lighter brown, but that's within 'OK' to me and definitely not yet reached 'too rich' black/sooty/
> 
> ...


It's an old rabbit. I only pulled the one plug and then put it back but suppose I should check all to ensure the cylinders are burning evenly. 

Now to figure out what plugs to get



dirtyfingers said:


> If you bring your vehicle in for service and they need to take the wheels off for whatever reason is it fair for them to charge if you also want a tire rotate?


Fair, no. Permissible? Absolutely


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## XClayX (Apr 30, 2005)

What would you consider fixing or replacing on a 2002 47k mileage vehicle. Assuming everything is original, and it's lx minivan.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk


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## Seabird (Feb 8, 2002)

Fluids and filters if the car has been run periodically. The "little old lady who only drove to church and back every Sunday" thing. If those 47K miles happened between 2002 and 2007 and the vehicle has just sat since, I'd check and probably replace all of the belts and hoses. Also check the rubber trim and seals. Oh, and drain the fuel tank and maybe flush the motor.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

If you notice pinging (for whatever reason, out of tune, bad sensors, etc), would running premium be able to "mask" these problems by not detonating as easily? And you'd see an improvement even in an engine designed for 87?


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

thegave said:


> Car whisperers... what does my spark plug tell you?


Follow up: should I be worried that one of the plugs looks kind of wet and oily?

The other two look much like the first one I pulled


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

Yeah, it's a little worrisome. How many miles are on the plugs, though? If it's 10,000 or more I wouldn't sweat it much, but it is a likely indicator of worn valve seals or rings. 

If it were thick and they were in for only 1,000 miles you'd have a real problem!


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## RobMarkToo (Apr 21, 2012)

Air and water do mix said:


> It was a combination of carburetors and emission controls/cheap fuel. As octane went down the propensity of knocking went up. Couple that with a carburetor which functions with vacuum rather than pressurized fuel and high head temps brought on by emission regulations and you have a hot engine trying to shut off but the fuel ignites (detonation) because of heat and pressure. Since the vacuum created by the intake stroke keeps happening the carburetor continues to let fuel flow through it.
> 
> What was the fix before fuel injection? They often added a fuel cutoff valve. It was a small solenoid that tapped into the idle passageway (circuit) of the carburetor and it had to be supplied power to keep that circuit open. As soon as you shut off the key it would close and stop the flow of fuel through the idle circuit.


Thanks for the explanation. I think I do remember it happening more in the summer heat than any other time.


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## RobMarkToo (Apr 21, 2012)

VDub2625 said:


> If you notice pinging (for whatever reason, out of tune, bad sensors, etc), would running premium be able to "mask" these problems by not detonating as easily? And you'd see an improvement even in an engine designed for 87?


In my experience, yes.


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## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

is the difference between 4x4 and AWD really just that AWD is on all the time and 4x4 is selectable?


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## AudiA4_18T (Mar 15, 2006)

Dravenport said:


> is the difference between 4x4 and AWD really just that AWD is on all the time and 4x4 is selectable?


I believe it also has to do with how the system works. In a 4x4 system, the differentials are locked, meaning the power is applied evenly across all wheels. On AWD systems, torque can be transferred to different wheels based on need.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Dravenport said:


> is the difference between 4x4 and AWD really just that AWD is on all the time and 4x4 is selectable?


In my mind "4WD" is truck-based (usually longitudinal) with a transfer case and low-range, could be part-time or full-time or selectable. "AWD" is more of a car-based system with a viscous coupling or clutch packs.



AudiA4_18T said:


> I believe it also has to do with how the system works. In a 4x4 system, the differentials are locked, meaning the power is applied evenly across all wheels. On AWD systems, torque can be transferred to different wheels based on need.


Only the fanciest systems have locking diffs all around. In a part-time 4WD system, when you shift from 2WD to 4WD, the front and rear axles are locked together -- that is why you can't make turns on drive pavement without driveline binding/axle hop as there is no way for all the wheels to travel a different distance. You can get stuck off road pretty easily if one or more wheels are in the air.

Full-time (or selectable full-time) 4WD has a center diff that allows the front/rear axles to turn at different speeds, but some can be locked.

There are a ton of variations
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-wheel_drive

Full continuum here from simple to complex
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_four-wheel-drive_systems


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

I don't know that there is a clear distinction between AWD and 4x4, but my working definition is that 4x4 uses a transfer case and AWD does not. Generally speaking, you will find that trucks and (some) SUVs use a transfer case, thus 4x4, and cars will distribute power to front and rear via the transaxle or center differential, thus AWD. But I don't like to use that as a rule, because swaps, hazy definition between car and truck, etc. So, I don't know if that's RIGHT, but it works for me.


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## Harpoon (Jan 5, 2008)

AudiA4_18T said:


> I believe it also has to do with how the system works. In a 4x4 system, the differentials are locked, meaning the power is applied evenly across all wheels. On AWD systems, torque can be transferred to different wheels based on need.


Because there are so many variations of what "AWD" can be, AWD vs 4x4 is basically marketing jargon these days. As far as 4x4 meaning locked diffs, that is not the case. Locked center differential, yes. But most 4x4 trucks and SUVs on the road have open front and rear diffs. When you opt for a Z71 package Chevy or a TRD Tundra, those off-road packages pretty much always mean it comes with a rear factory installed LSD (and typically better shocks and skid plates as well). Pretty much the only factory vehicles you're gonna find with a front locker would be a G-Wagon or Land Cruiser I believe. Very uncommon in the OEM world. It's really only a thing you would need if you were rock crawling/mud bogging down south, etc. Hardcore use. That being said, even open front and rear diffs with four wheel drive is TONS better in snow than open diff FWD or RWD.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Air and water do mix said:


> Yeah, it's a little worrisome. How many miles are on the plugs, though? If it's 10,000 or more I wouldn't sweat it much, but it is a likely indicator of worn valve seals or rings.
> 
> If it were thick and they were in for only 1,000 miles you'd have a real problem!


Old for sure but not sure of mileage. I swapped them around to see if a dry one will get wet in the same cylinder. 

Valve seals wouldn't surprise me I get a bit of blue smoke on start up sometimes. Rings would be more worrying, how do you tell which it is?


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

thegave said:


> Old for sure but not sure of mileage. I swapped them around to see if a dry one will get wet in the same cylinder.
> 
> Valve seals wouldn't surprise me I get a bit of blue smoke on start up sometimes. Rings would be more worrying, how do you tell which it is?


It's been a while since I've thought about that, but if I remember correctly if it smokes at startup but not other times it's usually valve stem seals. Constant smoking would be rings. My Beetle is getting kinda smokes and I blame rapid ring wear on dry starts. 60,000 miles in 50 years will do that.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

thegave said:


> Valve seals wouldn't surprise me I get a bit of blue smoke on start up sometimes. Rings would be more worrying, how do you tell which it is?


Dry, then wet compression test. Drip some oil into the spark plug hole after doing the dry test, it should help seal the rings and if the compression raises dramatically, you know it's rings. If it doesn't, the valve seals are the culprit.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

VDub2625 said:


> Dry, then wet compression test. Drip some oil into the spark plug hole after doing the dry test, it should help seal the rings and if the compression raises dramatically, you know it's rings. If it doesn't, the valve seals are the culprit.


Nice! I hadn't heard that one.

I suppose it's safe to say that doesn't work so well with horizontal cylinders, though.


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## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

I've never heard of this, er, repair procedure. I guess I never had a car electrically wonky enough * to try this? If this really is a "reboot" for a car's electronics, when would I need this, and how well does it work?






* = yes really, even as a VW owner


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Clearing codes, primarily. Maybe reset certain adaptations.


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## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

Just how much horsepower do I need to pull a wheelie in my GTI, it's already modified to the moon and back!


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

:sly:Not sure if serious. Only RWD will wheelie.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

thegave said:


> :sly:Not sure if serious. Only RWD will wheelie.


He could do it backwards.




Or something.


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## MontoyaF1 (Apr 6, 2004)

thetopdog said:


> I was out with a girl last night and she told me her best friend's dad has a Gallardo that he modified. She said he "bored out" the engine (I wasn't even aware people did this to Gallardos instead of just going forced induction) and she said he let her drive it and she got it up to 210mph. I was very skeptical but didn't say anything because I don't like to call people on their bull$hit unless I'm 100% sure, but I'm not even sure it's physically possible for a naturally aspirated Gallardo to get up to 210mph (never-mind the difficulty of doing 210mph on public roads). What do you guys think? What is the most powerful naturally aspirated Gallardo out there and is it even capable of 210mph?


I have no idea, but either way I wouldn't want to date a girl like that: either she is a liar, or she told the truth and has no regard for the lives of other people.


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## XClayX (Apr 30, 2005)

What kind of tool is needed to take this bolt off??









Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk


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## VWVan (Feb 17, 2000)

^ if that was me.










but these I think? E torx.


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## Egz (May 30, 2002)

So, its that time of year, where counties need to pave roads. Grind up the old, lay down new asphalt. 

But after its freshly laid, someone goes over it, and spray paints white dashed squares here and there on the road. Only temporary. What do those mean?


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Isn't that a guide for where the permanent paint goes?


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## CodeMan (May 12, 2006)

What does the "station" mean in station wagon?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

CodeMan said:


> What does the "station" mean in station wagon?


It's a throwback to the horse and buggy days. It was the wagon you took to the stagecoach or train station to retrieve passengers and luggage.


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## CodeMan (May 12, 2006)

barry2952 said:


> It's a throwback to the horse and buggy days. It was the wagon you took to the stagecoach or train station to retrieve passengers and luggage.


Well that's a good bit more literal than I had assumed. Thanks Barry. :thumbup:


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

CodeMan said:


> Well that's a good bit more literal than I had assumed. Thanks Barry. :thumbup:


You might be surprised to know that the dashboard on a horse drawn coach or wagon is what the driver's feet rested on. It was supposed to keep the horse "dash" off your feet.


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## Giovanni (May 13, 2000)

barry2952 said:


> You might be surprised to know that the dashboard on a horse drawn coach or wagon is what the driver's feet rested on. It was supposed to keep the horse "dash" off your feet.


That is interesting.

so why are wagons called "estates" elsewhere?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Giovanni said:


> That is interesting.
> 
> so why are wagons called "estates" elsewhere?


Typically, it was only the "estates" of wealthy people that could afford such task-specific hardware.

Now someone can explain "shooting brake" to me. I believe it was a wagon that was set up specifically for hunting.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

barry2952 said:


> You might be surprised to know that the dashboard on a horse drawn coach or wagon is what the driver's feet rested on. It was supposed to keep the horse "dash" off your feet.


As you know, so many terms like that go far back into our history.


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## Sold Over Sticker (Nov 29, 2009)

barry2952 said:


> Typically, it was only the "estates" of wealthy people that could afford such task-specific hardware.
> 
> Now someone can explain "shooting brake" to me. I believe it was a wagon that was set up specifically for hunting.


It was a means to transport guns and gear to go hunting with in the horse drawn era. Then they got motorized. If I recall correctly the "brake" in shooting brake is contested as to where it came from. 

Here's one that has always confused me, and it's hard to wrap my head around. Many manuals I've owned don't like shifting into second gear when cold, so I skip second, and shift from 1st to 3rd. If I shift into second, it'll grind, but it'll go into third with no issues. What confuses me is that the shift into 3rd has a higher speed difference for the synchro to sort out, but it's totally fine. 2nd is less of a numerical reduction from 1st gear than 3rd gear is, but it grinds. Why would the gear with the smaller speed difference have a harder time engaging without grinding the dog teeth?


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Isn't that just because the second synchro gets worn more?


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## Sold Over Sticker (Nov 29, 2009)

thegave said:


> Isn't that just because the second synchro gets worn more?


In an old worn transmission that makes sense. But I've had to skip 2nd in my brand new Tremec in my SS, my nearly brand new Getrag in my E39, my freshly rebuilt gearbox in my Triumph, etc.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Sold Over Sticker said:


> It was a means to transport guns and gear to go hunting with in the horse drawn era. Then they got motorized. If I recall correctly the "brake" in shooting brake is contested as to where it came from.


I've seen pictures of both horse-drawn and motorized shooting brakes that actually have shooting platforms to steady the shot.

Here's one that I've been writing about recently. Most don't know why cars before the '40s and '50 only had a single door lock, on the passenger side. The first "drive-right" laws in this country were implemented in the 1820's due to congestion in towns. When you drive right you would exit curbside, simply because you really didn't want to step in what the street was made of. Since animals were the sole means of transportation the streets were poop and mud. If you look at old-west towns the storefronts and lodging all had raised walkways so you could exit from your horse or carriage "curb-side". These became what we now refer to as sidewalks, a raised pathway free of street debris.

When enclosed carriages came along the drivers aways sat outside (because they bathed infrequent and they stunk) and the passengers sat in water-tight comfort. There was no need for a driver's side door, so they, and the Model-T didn't have them. So, the point of all this is that door locks on the passenger side-only make sense if you were to pull into town you'd pull curb-side, lock the door(s) with the handle move in the reverse of normal to lock the door(s) from the inside. Everyone would exit onto the clean sidewalk, the driver would slide over and exit curb-side, locking the door behind them. This is also the reason you find the dome light switch on the passenger-side "B" pillar.

You also may note that very early cars that had open driver's compartments were open for the same reason as drivers of horse-drawn transportation. I believe the average American at the turn of the last century only bathed every two weeks, or so. The driver sat on leather seats and the closed cabin of the car was finished in soft cloth for the gentry set. Early automobile drivers would still have been mucking out the stalls and doing other estate chores. For the owners it was a form of self-preservation. Not that they smelled much better, they just used smelly powders.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

Sold Over Sticker said:


> Here's one that has always confused me, and it's hard to wrap my head around. Many manuals I've owned don't like shifting into second gear when cold, so I skip second, and shift from 1st to 3rd. If I shift into second, it'll grind, but it'll go into third with no issues. What confuses me is that the shift into 3rd has a higher speed difference for the synchro to sort out, but it's totally fine. 2nd is less of a numerical reduction from 1st gear than 3rd gear is, but it grinds. Why would the gear with the smaller speed difference have a harder time engaging without grinding the dog teeth?


Hmmmmm... I'm not sure, but it's possible that second is on a different shaft and there are more pieces (therefore more weight) to get rotating at the correct speed. That is definitely a SWAG, but it's all I have. We'll need someone more versed in transmissions than I to sort that out properly.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Air and water do mix said:


> Hmmmmm... I'm not sure, but it's possible that second is on a different shaft and there are more pieces (therefore more weight) to get rotating at the correct speed. That is definitely a SWAG, but it's all I have. We'll need someone more versed in transmissions than I to sort that out properly.


Something about idler gearing, I think.


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## Miked617 (Oct 19, 2013)

My AFR gauge reads 3.8 whenever my foot if fully off the throttle and I'm just coasting.

Does that mean the AFR at that point is "rich" and the car is using more fuel versus when it reads 14.7? 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


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## Sold Over Sticker (Nov 29, 2009)

Air and water do mix said:


> Hmmmmm... I'm not sure, but it's possible that second is on a different shaft and there are more pieces (therefore more weight) to get rotating at the correct speed. That is definitely a SWAG, but it's all I have. We'll need someone more versed in transmissions than I to sort that out properly.


It's been a head scratcher for me, and all I have are SWAGs too.


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

Second gear synchro is generally the first to wear out due to being the most-often-used, and having the biggest gear step or difference. I think that's why "second gear grind" is so ubiquitous in well-aged cars. I'm no expert, I think I just read that somewhere a long time ago, and it makes sense to me.:thumbup::thumbdown::beer:


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## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

Rob Cote said:


> Second gear synchro is generally the first to wear out due to being the most-often-used, and having the biggest gear step or difference. I think that's why "second gear grind" is so ubiquitous in well-aged cars. I'm no expert, I think I just read that somewhere a long time ago, and it makes sense to me.:thumbup::thumbdown::beer:


But it also happens with brand-new cars as well.


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## Just Another Sweater (Aug 11, 2002)

Sold Over Sticker said:


> Here's one that has always confused me, and it's hard to wrap my head around. Many manuals I've owned don't like shifting into second gear when cold, so I skip second, and shift from 1st to 3rd. If I shift into second, it'll grind, but it'll go into third with no issues. What confuses me is that the shift into 3rd has a higher speed difference for the synchro to sort out, but it's totally fine. 2nd is less of a numerical reduction from 1st gear than 3rd gear is, but it grinds. Why would the gear with the smaller speed difference have a harder time engaging without grinding the dog teeth?


In for ideas. I've also experienced this with FWD and RWD manuals. After about 15 miles of driving then I could shift into second without reluctance from the synchronizers.

Edit: The last four cars were purchased new yet had the behavior stated above.


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

Smigelski said:


> But it also happens with brand-new cars as well.


Oh for real? I'm not that rich, so I wouldn't know. :laugh::facepalm:


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Rob Cote said:


> Second gear synchro is generally the first to wear out due to being the most-often-used, and having the biggest gear step or difference. I think that's why "second gear grind" is so ubiquitous in well-aged cars. I'm no expert, I think I just read that somewhere a long time ago, and it makes sense to me.:thumbup::thumbdown::beer:


My wife was having a problem with gear grinding on her '97 Z3. I bowed to the Mighty Vortex and was blessed with the knowledge that it just needed to have the hose between the master and slave cylinders replaced. The pressure was expanding the hose instead of pushing the slave cylinder. In effect, the clutch wasn't disengaging. Could be something as simple as a hydraulic line.

It takes two people to test your brakes the same way, but you can feel the expansion of the hose. If you feel any movement replace it. Same with brake lines. Adjust braked, one guy jam on brakes while the other guy grasps the hoses tightly. If you detect movement you're courting disaster.


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## Sold Over Sticker (Nov 29, 2009)

Rob Cote said:


> Oh for real? I'm not that rich, so I wouldn't know. :laugh::facepalm:


I get it on used cars. The synchro with the largest speed difference to work out will wear the fastest, even it's a beefier triple cone synchro. I just get stumped because it's happened with a lot of new cars I've owned, and I'm not one to beat up a transmission. I generally shift with fingertip pressure, and move the gearbox at the speed it wants to work at.


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

Sold Over Sticker said:


> I get it on used cars. The synchro with the largest speed difference to work out will wear the fastest, even it's a beefier triple cone synchro. I just get stumped because it's happened with a lot of new cars I've owned, and I'm not one to beat up a transmission. I generally shift with fingertip pressure, and move the gearbox at the speed it wants to work at.


Wow okay so you do not rev match _at all times_? bro do u even double clutch? fckin' granny shifter ova hea. :laugh::laugh::laugh:

Just kidding. That's interesting. My anecdotal information is that I get 2nd gear grind on my 99 beat-to-**** wrangler when it's cold, but NOT on my 06 a3 (back when I had it). I just assumed the audi wasn't yet to that point within the wear-spectrum. Perhaps it's something altogether different. I'm going to be doing replacing the clutch line, apparently, based on Barry's suggestion.....someday. :laugh: I'll probably forget to post results here, so don't hold your breath. :thumbup:


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## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

Smigelski said:


> But it also happens with brand-new cars as well.


Including first-gen MazdaSpeed3's. If you're lucky it happens while you're still under warranty. If you're very lucky, your dealership knows that when they're done, the gear oil needs a special factory additive for the LSD.


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## Sold Over Sticker (Nov 29, 2009)

Rob Cote said:


> Wow okay so you do not rev match _at all times_? bro do u even double clutch? fckin' granny shifter ova hea. :laugh::laugh::laugh:
> 
> Just kidding. That's interesting. My anecdotal information is that I get 2nd gear grind on my 99 beat-to-**** wrangler when it's cold, but NOT on my 06 a3 (back when I had it). I just assumed the audi wasn't yet to that point within the wear-spectrum. Perhaps it's something altogether different. I'm going to be doing replacing the clutch line, apparently, based on Barry's suggestion.....someday. :laugh: I'll probably forget to post results here, so don't hold your breath. :thumbup:


Actually, I double clutch all down changes under 4th, and when I skip gears. :laugh: Every down change whether I single or double clutch is rev matched. Just programmed into my muscle memory, not because racekor. :laugh:


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

I've noted that it has a lot to do with the operating temp of the gear oil. Which explains why it affects both new and old cars. 

Some cars just need to get up to operating temp before 2nd is user friendly. 

So, anecdotally, it's a function of the fluid operating temp, and not actually the gearbox.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

Miked617 said:


> My AFR gauge reads 3.8 whenever my foot if fully off the throttle and I'm just coasting.
> 
> Does that mean the AFR at that point is "rich" and the car is using more fuel versus when it reads 14.7?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


I am assuming this is on a carb'd vehicle. Modern (ie: electronic) fuel injection will turn off the fuel injectors while coasting/no load. I am not familiar with carbs and their tuning, but I have a feeling that is why it is pig rich on no load. 
I am also assuming you are using a wideband sensor.


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## Miked617 (Oct 19, 2013)

monoaural said:


> I am assuming this is on a carb'd vehicle. Modern (ie: electronic) fuel injection will turn off the fuel injectors while coasting/no load. I am not familiar with carbs and their tuning, but I have a feeling that is why it is pig rich on no load.
> I am also assuming you are using a wideband sensor.


Hmm interesting, Mk7 GTI and I'm using the JB4 app. Maybe it's just the app. I'll ask George.


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## Egz (May 30, 2002)

thegave said:


> Isn't that a guide for where the permanent paint goes?


No, these are square outlines in the middle of the travel lane, randomly.


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## Harpoon (Jan 5, 2008)

Sold Over Sticker said:


> Actually, I double clutch all down changes under 4th, and when I skip gears. :laugh: Every down change whether I single or double clutch is rev matched. Just programmed into my muscle memory, not because racekor. :laugh:


I don't understand people that _don't_ rev match every downshift. I'm not saying that to be "racekor", but people who just slot down a gear and let the clutch out baffle me because why jerk the car around under decel when you can make it buttery smooth?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Egz said:


> No, these are square outlines in the middle of the travel lane, randomly.


Possibly markings where to cut for road sensors for traffic control?


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## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

Why don't auto parts stores carry red battery cables any more?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

g-man_ae said:


> Why don't auto parts stores carry red battery cables any more?


Because the identification shouldn't matter. The battery is clearly marked on both terminals and the + post is larger than the -. If you want red battery cables you can get red heat shrink tubing.


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## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

barry2952 said:


> Because the identification shouldn't matter. The battery is clearly marked on both terminals and the + post is larger than the -. If you want red battery cables you can get red heat shrink tubing.


I'm adding the battery box to my wife's Bug that VW sacrificed to cost-cutting. It needs a longer (-) cable to reach around the box to the battery via the cut-out in the box, so a new cable was needed. (That, and the cable - not the battery terminal - keeps corroding for some reason.) Advance Auto Parts (the "best" we have in town) only has black cables. When I asked the parts counter guy about red ones, he said, "Yeah, we used to have 'em in both colors, but now they only come in black."

It's an idiot-proofing step, and you can't have too many when working with the battery IMO.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

As I stated, the system is already idiot-proof. What you want is a redundancy.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Let's do it again - carvoyants, what do you see in my plugs? These are off a TFSI motor with 42k miles on them in a little under four years. I've been running stage 1 for maybe 30k.


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

thegave said:


> Let's do it again - carvoyants, what do you see in my plugs? These are off a TFSI motor with 42k miles on them in a little under four years. I've been running stage 1 for maybe 30k.


Look great to me. But I'm used to reading plugs on multi-carb engines where 'close enough is good enough'. 

Nice and even as expected with injection and modern computers. Some say you can read timing off the earth strap (where the color changes) and base ring of the plugs, but I've never gotten much past reading mixtures.

Was there a problem you're trying to troubleshoot? Or just a periodic check to make sure things are all good?

:beer::thumbup:


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

TwoLitreVW said:


> I've noted that it has a lot to do with the operating temp of the gear oil. Which explains why it affects both new and old cars.
> 
> Some cars just need to get up to operating temp before 2nd is user friendly.
> 
> So, anecdotally, it's a function of the fluid operating temp, and not actually the gearbox.


No, the cold gear oil isn't the actual cause, or it would happen in all gears. Basically the warm gear oil alleviates the symptom, but the _cause_ is still mechanical. :beer:


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## Egz (May 30, 2002)

VDub2625 said:


> Possibly markings where to cut for road sensors for traffic control?


Maybe. But this is on a rural highway miles from any controls.


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## fireside (Feb 23, 2008)

Plugs look a touch lean, other than that, good to go!


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Cool. No issues, just figured it was time for a 40ish K service. May use these old plugs to replace the other old plugs from my last post to see how that car runs with them.


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## Mightion (Mar 19, 2008)

Are car suspensions supposed to "Settle" or something after X miles?

My '16 Golf just passed 7k miles - my drive to work is less than 5 miles. Now, you drive the same stretch of road five days a week for a year and a half, you get an idea of how the road (and the car) feels.

I have had no complaints with the ride, but today, suddenly, it was a heck of a lot smoother, which is saying a lot, since I had no complaints before. (And yes, I did get visual confirmation of the strut pucks being out when the car was delivered)

So, suspension gets softer/more comfortable at 7k miles; normal? (y/n)


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## DonL (Feb 28, 1999)

barry2952 said:


> As I stated, the system is already idiot-proof. What you want is a redundancy.


I think the installation system is okay, but too many jalamos that jump start cars look no further than what color are the cables, and hook up the jumper cables accordingly. Both cables being black may cause trouble for those not paying close enough attention.


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## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

Are all2 strokes oil injected? Can they be made not oil injected?

Wil we ever see another 2 stroke automobile? 2 stokes are, in a sense, more power dense. Why haven't we seen auto makers try to clean up 2 strokes for road use?

Why haven't rotary engines been used for hybrid cars? All the issues of a rotary are solved by using it as a "generator" for electric cars. Can run at constant rpm, solving the cooling/thermal expansion issues with the rotary. They are extremely fuel efficient when run at a constant rpm, and are hugely power dense.

So many questions!


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## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

VR6JH said:


> Are all2 strokes oil injected? Can they be made not oil injected?
> 
> Wil we ever see another 2 stroke automobile? 2 stokes are, in a sense, more power dense. Why haven't we seen auto makers try to clean up 2 strokes for road use?
> 
> ...


Yes, any two stroke that's not oil injected just needs oil premixed into the fuel.

Two strokes aren't a good match for cars for a number of reasons. One is that they offer no engine braking. Another is that they'll have no lubrication if you're not using the throttle. I believe early Saabs had engine seizing problems when people would drift down hills too much without touching the accelerator pedal. They are also not emissions friendly as you pointed out, and they have a much shorter engine life before they need rebuilt. Their short powerband, and high RPM/ low torque aren't great for a heavy car either.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

thegave said:


> Cool. No issues, just figured it was time for a 40ish K service. May use these old plugs to replace the other old plugs from my last post to see how that car runs with them.


Why do you have 4 plugs but only 3 crush washers?


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Not sure what you mean. All four plugs have a washer.


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## Neezy13 (Jun 1, 2011)

thegave said:


> Not sure what you mean. All four plugs have a washer.


3 have crush washers and one has a regular flat washer and it appears to have rusted.


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## KizashiAGP (Jun 29, 2016)

Lucian1988 said:


> not a bad idea, I did plan that whenever I replaced the clutch, id do the flywheel with a lighter one.


OEM clutch + lighter flywheel = okay for daily driving, though?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

DonL said:


> I think the installation system is okay, but too many jalamos that jump start cars look no further than what color are the cables, and hook up the jumper cables accordingly. Both cables being black may cause trouble for those not paying close enough attention.


Both the cables being black makes you pay attention. It's OK id you want to dress up your engine compartment, but there's a reason they don't use red cables anymore. They are a redundancy most can live without.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

KizashiAGP said:


> OEM clutch + lighter flywheel = okay for daily driving, though?


Do people not understand that the flywheel is heavy for a reason?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Surf Green said:


> Why do you have 4 plugs but only 3 crush washers?


They are all crush washers, the rusty one is just rust-stained from above.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

barry2952 said:


> Do people not understand that the flywheel is heavy for a reason?


Some people like to override the synchros for that 'graunchy' sound. Because race car.

In street driven high performance applications I like a lot of clamping force and a stock weight flywheel for that very reason. In my case I want to pick up a heavier pulley, as there's a 6 lb. one from Gene Berg and it stops the nodes (think of a guitar string) from traveling back down the crankshaft. On a racer with a lightened flywheel its imperative, but it's also beneficial for the street in a long-term scenario.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

barry2952 said:


> Both the cables being black makes you pay attention. It's OK id you want to dress up your engine compartment, but there's a reason they don't use red cables anymore. They are a redundancy most can live without.


In the aftermarket people would also put on whatever was in stock and close to the stock length as long as it was hanging on the wall and they could get it right _now_, sometimes making the negative cable red. In that situation it'd be easy to screw it up!

Like Barry's Porsche, my negative looks like this, so it's never a problem!


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## KizashiAGP (Jun 29, 2016)

barry2952 said:


> Do people not understand that the flywheel is heavy for a reason?


Obviously. I was quoting someone who mentioned possibly doing it. I had a friend who gave that a shot about 10 years back...quickly put an OEM flywheel on.


Anyway, can someone shed some light on "Twist" and "Turbo" wheels? I've always thought "Twist" was the style and "Turbo" was related to wheels on a particular Porsche, but never looked into it or asked. Is that really all there is to it?


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

barry2952 said:


> They are all crush washers, the rusty one is just rust-stained from above.


Do I need to be worried about all that rust on the one plug?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

thegave said:


> Do I need to be worried about all that rust on the one plug?


Does this sit in a deep socket that would have stayed wet? Does the spark plug wire show any signs of rusty water dripping on it? Do you lose fluid in your radiator?


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

It's a deep socket yes, but it's a TFSI engine with COPs that seal the socket pretty damn well. I tore up my knuckles trying to pull them out to do the swap, so not sure how moisture would've gotten in.

I did lose a bit of coolant though (over 40k). Possible headgasket issue?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

thegave said:


> so not sure how moisture would've gotten in.


You can just assume it did. I spent the last 40 years in the commercial lighting business and came to the conclusion that you can't keep moisture out, you just have to give it a place to go, not feasible in a spark plug socket. I don't believe a head gasket would have exhibited itself that way. If it was antifreeze it likely wouldn't rust. That amount of rust could easily have been conductive, draining off spark from that cylinder.

You should screw a clean plug into that cylinder and blow out any debris in the well.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

barry2952 said:


> Both the cables being black makes you pay attention. It's OK id you want to dress up your engine compartment, but there's a reason they don't use red cables anymore. They are a redundancy most can live without.


I'm a little confused why this seems to be your crusade, Barry


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

VDub2625 said:


> I'm a little confused why this seems to be your crusade, Barry


Crusade? Just surprised anyone cares what color their battery cables are.


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## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

why are LS engines the default option for swaps? are they just more versatile than other engines, like coyotes?


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Dravenport said:


> why are LS engines the default option for swaps? are they just more versatile than other engines, like coyotes?


Pushrod design is small (compared to a DOHC engine), common/ubiquitous/lots of sources, relatively inexpensive, easy to make a lot of power


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## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

sigh, i dont know nearly enough about cars and there are no automotive classes in my area (in english)


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

adrew said:


> Pushrod design is small (compared to a DOHC engine), common/ubiquitous/lots of sources, relatively inexpensive, easy to make a lot of power


To expand on that a bit, here's a Coyote compared to an LS. I wish the photo were straight on, as this angle actually makes the LS look _bigger_! 










The LS simply fits in places it should probably never go. :laugh:

Edit: I'm not sure what the DOHC engine is, but you get the idea.  Some competitors in racing were complaining that Chevrolet had an aerodynamic advantage since the front end could be lower. Duh! It's the reason the Corvette doesn't have a Mustang sized nose on it!


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Dravenport said:


> sigh, i dont know nearly enough about cars and there are no automotive classes in my area (in english)


Like, you need more information for this to make sense? Basically it's really small due to its design, and makes a lot of power which makes it a target for engine upgrades.

A pushrod engine doesn't have cam(s) and timing stuff in the heads - it has one camshaft down in the vee of the block and rods that come up and push the rockers that work the valves. There's a short timing chain (or set of gears) that goes from the crankshaft to the cam. So overall the dimensions are a lot smaller because an OHC engine has a lot more going on.

In an overhead cam engine you have one or two cams in the head which directly work the valves and there is a long belt or chains that comes up from the crankshaft along with a bunch of associated tensioners and variable valve/cam timing actuators and solenoids and other hardware. Excepting special/high-performance pushrod engines, historically a DOHC 4-valve engine was leaps and bounds better in overall flexibility and high-RPM breathing/power than most mass-market pushrod engines which ran out of breath at 4000-4500 RPM (like, in the early '90s when comparing the blatty GM 3.1-liter OHV V6 vs. a silky Toyota 3-liter DOHC 24v V6). The hot GM V8s and Ford HO V8s like the Mustang GT 302 are obvious common exceptions; the commodity/truck versions were not as fun.

As in all cases there are exceptions, like there are now some pushrod engines with variable valve timing, and also some 4-valve pushrod engines (most are in heavy duty diesels).


----------



## CodeMan (May 12, 2006)

Dravenport said:


> why are LS engines the default option for swaps? are they just more versatile than other engines, like coyotes?


People often quote volumetric efficiency stats (HP/Liter) when they talk about how good an engine is, but for swaps a more important metric is power density, or how much power you can physically fit into the engine bay without upsetting the weight distribution. You can express this as HP/(physical size * weight). This is exactly where an aluminum block pushrod engine shines, as without the huge, heavy DOHC heads you can shoehorn large displacements into small bays. Sure, you may be only putting out 85 HP/Liter, but all the extra liters make up for the fewer valves and lower revs.


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## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

adrew said:


> Like, you need more information for this to make sense? Basically it's really small due to its design, and makes a lot of power which makes it a target for engine upgrades.
> 
> A pushrod engine doesn't have cam(s) and timing stuff in the heads - it has one camshaft down in the vee of the block and rods that come up and push the rockers that work the valves. There's a short timing chain (or set of gears) that goes from the crankshaft to the cam. So overall the dimensions are a lot smaller because an OHC engine has a lot more going on.
> 
> ...


this is sweet, thanks


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Dravenport said:


> sigh, i dont know nearly enough about cars and there are no automotive classes in my area (in english)


Howstuffworks is stupidly awesome for "easy" things like this, basically explaining the details of what you want to know in more detail than you'd usually care about


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Also Engineering Explained on YouTube


----------



## Hostile (Nov 18, 2001)

I'm looking for some spacers for my wife's R. 15mm front and 20mm rear seems is the general consensus for a "flush" look with the 18" Cadiz wheels (18"x7.5" ET49) and no lowering. 

I currently have a set of 18" Watkins Glen wheels on the car which are 18"x7.5" ET51.

If I'm understanding offset correctly (and because the wheels are the same width), the higher offset of 51 means that the mounting surface of the wheel is farther away from the car in the wheel barrel, which would bring the entire wheel actually closer to the center of the car, right? A lower number would move the mounting surface closer to the car within the barrel, thus pushing the actual wheel farther from the car.

This picture from DAP seems to reinforce my thinking:









Am I understanding this right, and the 15mm/20mm spacers will be fine? Or do I have it backwards?


----------



## CaleDeRoo (Jul 30, 2011)

Hostile said:


> I'm looking for some spacers for my wife's R. 15mm front and 20mm rear seems is the general consensus for a "flush" look with the 18" Cadiz wheels (18"x7.5" ET49) and no lowering.
> 
> I currently have a set of 18" Watkins Glen wheels on the car which are 18"x7.5" ET51.
> 
> ...


You've got it correct. A positive offset (+51) means the mounting surface of the wheel is pushed +51 mm from the wheel centerline. So that 51mm offset wheel will be 2mm closer to the strut than the 49mm.

Also I'm sure you know you'll need extended lugs for those spaces


----------



## Hostile (Nov 18, 2001)

CaleDeRoo said:


> You've got it correct. A positive offset (+51) means the mounting surface of the wheel is pushed +51 mm from the wheel centerline. So that 51mm offset wheel will be 2mm closer to the strut than the 49mm.
> 
> Also I'm sure you know you'll need extended lugs for those spaces


Cool, thanks. The chat person at ECS said I had it backwards and the wheel would actually be farther away from the car, but that just didn't make sense... I gave him a link to the picture above and he just left me hanging until the chat session timed out and disconnected me. :facepalm:

And yea on the studs. The ECS kit I'm looking at includes 45mm and 47mm bolts.

Thanks again. :beer:


----------



## CaleDeRoo (Jul 30, 2011)

Hostile said:


> Cool, thanks. The chat person at ECS said I had it backwards and the wheel would actually be farther away from the car, but that just didn't make sense... I gave him a link to the picture above and he just left me hanging until the chat session timed out and disconnected me. :facepalm:


Chat guy:












:laugh::laugh::laugh:


----------



## Hostile (Nov 18, 2001)

LOL, totally. :laugh:

I just ran across this tid-bit over at m3forum.net, posted by the folks at Turner Motorsports:



> *Spacers for Wheel Offset Issues*
> A lot of the calls we get are to correct a wheel offset when using a wheel not intended for the chassis. Examples - E36 M3 wheels on an E30 M3 or E46 wheels on an E34. *The 3-series cars generally have a higher offset than the 5-series. This results in the wheel being tucked in too far and making contact with brakes, suspension components, or the inner wheel well.* The differences in offset are usually around 15-20mm but that's not the whole story...
> 
> Not only is the offset different but the width of the wheel is usually different as well. An E30 M3 had a 7.0" stock wheel. Most E36 wheels are 7.5" or 8.0" and a higher offset. So not only are you fighting the higher offset but the wheel is physically wider. *If the wheels were the same width, your spacer would simply be the differences in the offsets.* But add the extra width and you now have another dimension to figure out. The mathematical formula is very intricate but you can find offset calculators online. Call us if you need further assistance.


----------



## fizay (Oct 10, 2008)

I have a set of JIC coilovers I suspect are going bad. I know the fluids and seals need to be changed; it doesn't ride as well as some others. However I suspect there is something going on between the outer shock body and the inner piston, such that it has a minute amount of clearance. 

How can I check for this? Jack up, wheels off, hands on the coilovers (avoiding the coils) and shake really hard?? Any other methods? If I need to pull one off to investigate, I will, but it's a very last resort for me.


----------



## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

Just what are sunroof air deflectors actually good for, anyway?

It seems that for a very small improvement in noise and turbulence, you have to worry about...
- being unable to use automatic car washes
- the deflector damaging the paint
- the deflector flying off

(I'm not making these up, these are what I found with a little Google'ing.)


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Why don't race cars rotate tyres? Each corner is marked and presumably stays on that corner until it's worn right?


----------



## MBrown (Aug 1, 2000)

thegave said:


> Why don't race cars rotate tyres? Each corner is marked and presumably stays on that corner until it's worn right?


I've had several cars with "staggered" setups -- rear tires larger than the fronts. If you add in that the tires were directional (designed to rotate in a specific direction, so only suitable for one side of the car), each tire can only go in one corner.

I'm guessing it's similar on race cars.


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

Tire life is inconsequential on race cars and tire rotation is to extend the life of tires, so they simply don't care. The tire is used as much as it can be and tossed out. The additional 20% (or whatever) life they could get out of them isn't even in the equation. Also, tires take some time to get "happy" with where they are and if you rotated tires it would probably take a few laps for it to be at maximum grip. Meanwhile you've been passed by 6 cars and have to fight your way back up. It simply isn't worth it.

This assumes, of course, 4 tire rotation. With just a swap from one side to the other (because of different sizes/types) then the tire life gain becomes minimal at best.


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

thegave said:


> Why don't race cars rotate tyres? Each corner is marked and presumably stays on that corner until it's worn right?


Because it's a race to see who gets to the end the fastest, not to see who gets the most mileage out of a set of tires.


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Then why label them at all?


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

thegave said:


> Then why label them at all?


I'd guess for efficiency during setup and pit stops so you know at a glance which tire goes at which corner. 
I can also imagine it would be handy for post-race analysis, in case you needed to trouble-shoot any odd tire behavior/wear/failure etc.


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

And depending on the type of racing, they may also be running different tire pressures and/or sizes, and you don't want to mix that up.


----------



## Giovanni (May 13, 2000)

would the wheels for a 2007 Jetta GLI also fit on an Audi B8 A4 without hubcentric rings or any other changes pls?


----------



## HaterSlayer (Oct 19, 2007)

How does a car know the temperature outside? I understand when the car is stationary, but while moving wouldn't the air over the car make it read lower than it actually is outside?


----------



## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

HaterSlayer said:


> How does a car know the temperature outside? I understand when the car is stationary, but while moving wouldn't the air over the car make it read lower than it actually is outside?


Moving air only cools when there is moisture to evaporate. We cool down in a breeze because it evaporates the moisture/sweat off our skin; whereas a sensor doesn't sweat. Mist it was water; however; and as the water evaporates, it will give a lower temp reading.

The placement of the sensor also makes a big difference. My old Ford had it in the front grill, which was quite accurate unless sitting in traffic and the head from the radiator would slowly waft over it. Newer Fords have it underneath the wing mirror, so it's not in direct sunlight. Some other cars have it in the rear bumper.

:beer::thumbup:


----------



## CaleDeRoo (Jul 30, 2011)

g-man_ae said:


> Just what are sunroof air deflectors actually good for, anyway?
> 
> It seems that for a very small improvement in noise and turbulence, you have to worry about...
> - being unable to use automatic car washes
> ...


They also help with shielding your eyes from the sun depending on what angle it's coming through the sunroof.

I had one on an old car and went through car washes all the time. Never came off, and since it never came off, whatever paint damage may have occurred didn't matter. (Not that it would have on that car anyways) :laugh:


----------



## Nealric (Feb 16, 2013)

CaleDeRoo said:


> They also help with shielding your eyes from the sun depending on what angle it's coming through the sunroof.
> 
> I had one on an old car and went through car washes all the time. Never came off, and since it never came off, whatever paint damage may have occurred didn't matter. (Not that it would have on that car anyways) :laugh:


My first car had one of those. I vividly remember that about 2 AM after driving 16 hours straight, it started coming off my car. I was actually able to open the sunroof, reach up, and grab it right before it flew away.


----------



## HaterSlayer (Oct 19, 2007)

drecian said:


> Moving air only cools when there is moisture to evaporate. We cool down in a breeze because it evaporates the moisture/sweat off our skin; whereas a sensor doesn't sweat. Mist it was water; however; and as the water evaporates, it will give a lower temp reading.
> 
> The placement of the sensor also makes a big difference. My old Ford had it in the front grill, which was quite accurate unless sitting in traffic and the head from the radiator would slowly waft over it. Newer Fords have it underneath the wing mirror, so it's not in direct sunlight. Some other cars have it in the rear bumper.
> 
> :beer::thumbup:


Thanks 

Sent from my LG K7 using Tapatalk


----------



## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

How would you put an aftermarket radio in a new vehicle where radio/nav/hvac takes up the entire area center of the dash, and it looks to be one unit?


----------



## saron81 (Jun 22, 2006)

Cabin Pics said:


> How would you put an aftermarket radio in a new vehicle where radio/nav/hvac takes up the entire area center of the dash, and it looks to be one unit?


They used to make a kit for the older Taurus that came as a console with all of the heat/ac switches, and just a single DIN sized radio hole, but I haven't seen them for newer vehicles. Admittedly, I haven't looked, so they might be out there.
The real question is why would you want to? I could understand wanting to upgrade your cassette player to a CD in the 90's... but now everything comes with any feature you'd possibly want from the OEM, and is so integrated into the car, it'd be much harder. I know that on new Fords, what you see isn't the actual radio itself, but just a faceplate with controls (they call it the front control interface module, lol.)


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

Cabin Pics said:


> How would you put an aftermarket radio in a new vehicle where radio/nav/hvac takes up the entire area center of the dash, and it looks to be one unit?


Adapters. Some look okay and some look like the afterthought that they are. It's a rectangular hole in a stereo face that was designed for some other shape, so it's according to what you started with as to how they look.

Here's the one for my Fit.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

saron81 said:


> They used to make a kit for the older Taurus that came as a console with all of the heat/ac switches, and just a single DIN sized radio hole, but I haven't seen them for newer vehicles. Admittedly, I haven't looked, so they might be out there.
> The real question is why would you want to? I could understand wanting to upgrade your cassette player to a CD in the 90's... but now everything comes with any feature you'd possibly want from the OEM, and is so integrated into the car, it'd be much harder. I know that on new Fords, what you see isn't the actual radio itself, but just a faceplate with controls (they call it the front control interface module, lol.)


You'd want to if your car had some age and you wanted modern features such as bluetooth/iPhone integration. 

...Or if your stereo was some crappy base unit. Even base units are "okay" today, but not for an audiophile. :beer:


----------



## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

CaleDeRoo said:


> They also help with shielding your eyes from the sun depending on what angle it's coming through the sunroof.


I seriously never heard of this benefit before now :thumbup: 



CaleDeRoo said:


> I had one on an old car and went through car washes all the time. Never came off, and since it never came off, whatever paint damage may have occurred didn't matter. (Not that it would have on that car anyways) :laugh:





Nealric said:


> My first car had one of those. I vividly remember that about 2 AM after driving 16 hours straight, it started coming off my car. I was actually able to open the sunroof, reach up, and grab it right before it flew away.


This is what I was finding in my research, some people say "no problem," others discovering their tendency to take flight.

I had an accessories coupon to use at my VW dealer, and since they had one of these in stock, I thought I'd give it a try. After 30 minutes with the included IKEA-pictogram instructions, I gave up and returned it. It didn't seem worth it.


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## DerSpiegel (Jun 20, 2008)

Giovanni said:


> would the wheels for a 2007 Jetta GLI also fit on an Audi B8 A4 without hubcentric rings or any other changes pls?


Probably not, the MKV Jetta has a 57.1mm centerbore while the B8 A4 has a 66.6mm centerbore. That means the Jetta wheels won't fit because the centerbore on them is too small. 

That's just theory though, you'd need to eyeball them to be certain.


----------



## dubbin'0n15s (Sep 27, 2005)

I like men


----------



## Bladecatcher (Feb 24, 2010)

dubbin'0n15s said:


> I like men


----------



## Neu2.0GTI (Jun 24, 2017)

*Slave cylinder won't engage clutch !heellpp!*

Had this car for a few months driven it maybe a week 1999.5 gti 2.0 swap neuspeed supercharger had issue were clutch pedal got stuck 3/4 way down and then felt grinding in pedal in 2nd and 3rd gear old slave cylinder was leaving when pulled out replaced it with better aluminium one and now the issue seems to be it won't engage the clutch it has been through 2 mechanics both vw certified any thoughts? I'm very concerned! I read in another post on vortex that someone had an old Z03 with the same issue and it ended up being the line between slave and master cylinder. Could that be a possibility?


----------



## bob570 (Oct 9, 2010)

Neu2.0GTI said:


> Had this car for a few months driven it maybe a week 1999.5 gti 2.0 swap neuspeed supercharger had issue were clutch pedal got stuck 3/4 way down and then felt grinding in pedal in 2nd and 3rd gear old slave cylinder was leaving when pulled out replaced it with better aluminium one and now the issue seems to be it won't engage the clutch it has been through 2 mechanics both vw certified any thoughts? I'm very concerned! I read in another post on vortex that someone had an old Z03 with the same issue and it ended up being the line between slave and master cylinder. Could that be a possibility?


Holy run on sentence, Batman!

Did you properly bleed the slave cylinder of air? If it's not disengaging the clutch then you're not getting proper pressure somewhere. I don't know what to tell you, you're just going to have to trace it back and look for a leak or rupture I guess.


----------



## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

*FV-QR*

I inherited a 2004 E46 330ci with a hardtop. The hardtop has been on the car for 2 years and never removed. Does this mean the soft top is ruined, or preserved? Kind of scared to just open it up without knowing anything about soft tops and their care. Friend has a porsche cab and said the dealership treats it every couple of years with some kind of spray that keeps it watertight and stretchy, any truth to this? Is there anything i should do before removing the hard top and putting up the soft top? I'd like to have the soft top ready for summer and put the hard top on in the winter, but if the soft top is toast i can live with the hard top-only.

Not pic of actual car but same wheels/bumper/etc.


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

You're never going to know till you put it up.


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## DonL (Feb 28, 1999)

Yeah, unfortunately, you won't know until you open it up and see. It may be fine, but with some creases or wrinkles that would need to be stretched or smoothed out somehow. Seeing that it's been hidden, I don't think it would necessarily be ruined. It's not like it's been beaten on by the sun and rain the whole time. Let us know, though, I'd be curious.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

For new tops, it must remain up for 10-14 days to stretch and fit. I don't see how this would be different, ie. the cloth may have shrunk, but putting it up for a week or two should get it to stretch out again.


----------



## Giovanni (May 13, 2000)

why did Audi stop exporting wagons to the USA? 
Maybe they thought that wagons would take away sales from their SUVs?


----------



## TheDarkEnergist (Aug 22, 2009)

DonL said:


> It's not like it's been beaten on by the sun and rain the whole time. Let us know, though, I'd be curious.


I'd actually be kind of excited. The soft top is probably in great shape, unless water made its way in and made things yucky. Is there a way to manually get it to come up? Maybe do that at first slowly to see if there's anything pinching or stretching that might rip.

Off the top of my head I have to imagine it would be in better shape than a soft top that's been sitting in the elements for 2 years. However as the owner of an e46 that does a lot of sitting, make sure you keep an eye on EVERYTHING rubber in that car.


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## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

Giovanni said:


> why did Audi stop exporting wagons to the USA?
> Maybe they thought that wagons would take away sales from their SUVs?


They still make the Allroad for the US. 

https://www.audiusa.com/models/audi-a4-allroad

And it's not about wagons taking sales away from the SUVs. It's that SUVs have taken so many sales away from wagons, the wagons aren't profitable enough to sell here, for the most part.


----------



## MBrown (Aug 1, 2000)

*Torque-sensing vs. torque-vectoring?*

What's the difference between a torque SENSING diff versus a torque VECTORING one?


----------



## jon_570 (May 18, 2010)

MBrown said:


> What's the difference between a torque SENSING diff versus a torque VECTORING one?



To me, torque vectoring is a new age electronic LSD. Locking the differential with electronics when slip is seen by the computer. 

a Torque sensing, is a non electronic lsd, is has locking clutch packs that engage when one side spins faster than the other.. Probably not the best or most accurate explanation, but hopefully someone more knowledgeable chimes in


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

Torque vectoring, as I understand it, takes into account speed and steering wheel angle to apply the torque differently to each driven wheel as you go around corners. Since each wheel travels a different arc and therefore goes a different speed it theoretically helps maintain control/neutrality. Some swear by it, but I haven't yet driven a car with it. It's a killer idea in theory, I just haven't tried it out yet.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Air and water do mix said:


> Torque vectoring, as I understand it, takes into account speed and steering wheel angle to apply the torque differently to each driven wheel as you go around corners. Since each wheel travels a different arc and therefore goes a different speed it theoretically helps maintain control/neutrality. Some swear by it, but I haven't yet driven a car with it. It's a killer idea in theory, I just haven't tried it out yet.


This. 

While torque sensing depends on some manner of slip to get to work, torque vectoring takes steering data as part of the equation and factors in that the outside wheel actually must travel farther (faster) than the inside wheel, and allows for that in the process. 

In torque sensing, this may be seen as slip, and may be compensated for in a manner detrimental to the turn you're trying to make. 

At least, that's how i understand them.


----------



## loyfah (Nov 12, 2007)

*front fender and rear quarter panels*

So changeable front fenders is quit normal on cars, but has there ever been car you can change the rear quarter panels just as easily?


And if this is not possible, what are the engineering problems with such a system ?


----------



## 0dd_j0b (Sep 22, 2007)

loyfah said:


> So changeable front fenders is quit normal on cars, but has there ever been car you can change the rear quarter panels just as easily?
> 
> 
> And if this is not possible, what are the engineering problems with such a system ?


Rear quarters are usually part of the entire body, whether BOF or Unibody, so a lot of work is involved cutting and replacing. Making a quick change rear quarter on a unibody generally means that the structural integrity will be diminished since it won't be a solid piece anymore.


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

loyfah said:


> So changeable front fenders is quit normal on cars, but has there ever been car you can change the rear quarter panels just as easily?


 BMW Z3 comes to mind - they're bolted on, just like the front fenders. 
Also i3 and i8 - because plastic parts. 

Which reminds me - Saturn vehicles, and the Pontiac Fiero. Again, because plastic.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Beetles (all versions) also!


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

VDub2625 said:


> Beetles (all versions) also!


VW Type 3s as well.










I wish it were more common, but I understand why it's not. (Because of the additional cost to assemble.)


----------



## cseaman (Jul 8, 2003)

loyfah said:


> So changeable front fenders is quit normal on cars, but has there ever been car you can change the rear quarter panels just as easily?


C6 Corvettes


----------



## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

VDub2625 said:


> Beetles (all versions) also!


----------



## Silly_me (Jul 26, 1999)

OK, I got one. 

Diesel. I thought it was allergic to cold temps. Glow plugs, heated blocks, anti gel winter blends.

So, reading about the Soviet T-34 tank, a Soviet tanker said that the Kharkiv V2 diesel engine was a major boon over the German's Maybach petrol engines in the sub freezing temps of Eastern front winter, saying they would start more easily than the petrol engines.

Can someone learn me on this? Would cutting the diesel with kerosene make that much of a difference? Is there a temp where gasoline just won't work and diesel has the edge? What makes the diesel a better cold weather fuel for the tanks but not so for the cars?


----------



## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

Bought the wife a 2004 Xterra, when going from 2 wheel to 4, do you do this in park or on the fly ? Man I feel stupid asking this one , I assume it can be done on the fly but dont have the manual to check this out

*edit , I really should have googled this first


----------



## Silly_me (Jul 26, 1999)

skydive_007 said:


> Bought the wife a 2004 Xterra, when going from 2 wheel to 4, do you do this in park or on the fly ? Man I feel stupid asking this one , I assume it can be done on the fly but dont have the manual to check this out


On my two 4x4 you need to be moving slowly 10mph or so, in neutral to engage the transfer case. Not sure what the system is like on the xterra, but if it locks the diffs don't drive on dry roads in 4lo.


----------



## Just Another Sweater (Aug 11, 2002)

skydive_007 said:


> Bought the wife a 2004 Xterra, when going from 2 wheel to 4, do you do this in park or on the fly ? Man I feel stupid asking this one , I assume it can be done on the fly but dont have the manual to check this out
> 
> *edit , I really should have googled this first


2004 Xterra Owners Manual PDF


----------



## The Igneous Faction (Dec 30, 2006)

Silly_me said:


> OK, I got one.
> 
> Diesel. I thought it was allergic to cold temps. Glow plugs, heated blocks, anti gel winter blends.
> 
> ...


Just a guess but I assume this has something to do with the fact that those Maybachs were carbureted. Also I imagine Soviet diesel in 1942 or whatever is a hell of a lot different to what I put in my TDI today, and not in ways that would make it better in cold weather. 

That said, once you get a diesel to fire it will pretty much stay firing as long as you keep injecting fuel into it. I've read about both sides on the Eastern Front parking their vehicles over smoldering fires to keep the engines warm enough to start or simply never shutting them off.


----------



## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

cityjohn said:


>


Shared with Beetle-owning wife. Expecting rolling pin to head in 5... 4... 3...


----------



## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

My mom ran over a nail in her Subaru and the tire can't be repaired. Is she better off getting one replacement tire, two replacement tires, or all four replaced? I know older WRXs needed all four replaced for the AWD system but I don't know if that holds true for the 2015 Outbacks. The car has 45,000 miles on it.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Consult the user manual. It'll usually detail what the acceptable difference in rolling circumference will be so as not to damage the drivetrain.


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

45k on the stock tires? Done, torched, get a new set :thumbup:


----------



## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

The user manual was vague on the topic. It just said driving on worn and uneven tires will affect the performance and handling of the vehicle. We're going to replace two tires.


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

DonPatrizio said:


> My mom ran over a nail in her Subaru and the tire can't be repaired. Is she better off getting one replacement tire, two replacement tires, or all four replaced? I know older WRXs needed all four replaced for the AWD system but I don't know if that holds true for the 2015 Outbacks. The car has 45,000 miles on it.


I hear, "can't be repaired" all the time. Most of the time, it's shops and CYA. I've plugged well into the outer treadblocks and never had a problem.

That said.... 45k on original tires? Not sure what they it came with, but the OE Geolanders on my wife's Forester were done after 30k, and I was very happy to get rid of them. Worst tire ever.

Replacing only 2 tires seems better, but there's still the center diff that needs to deal with it.
Some subie manuals state some ridiculous value of 1/8" max height difference.

(And then they provide a spare that's 1.5" too short.)


----------



## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

Thanks, yeah these Bridgestones last a ridiculous amount of time even with a heavy car. My OEM Firestones lasted 60k before I hit the wear indicators!


----------



## 0dd_j0b (Sep 22, 2007)

DonPatrizio said:


> Thanks, yeah these Bridgestones last a ridiculous amount of time even with a heavy car. My OEM Firestones lasted 60k before I hit the wear indicators!


Holy crepes, what is the tread wear rating on them? Over 9000?!


----------



## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

Question: if you have adjustable suspension, will it wear out faster on the firmest setting and wear out at a slower rate on a softer setting? 

Just curious.


----------



## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

A.Wilder said:


> Question: if you have adjustable suspension, will it wear out faster on the firmest setting and wear out at a slower rate on a softer setting?
> 
> Just curious.


Sweet jumps or no?


----------



## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

Cabin Pics said:


> Sweet jumps or no?


Just usually street abuse. I've had a few cars with adjustable konis. But never kept them long enough to need to replace the adjustable ones.


----------



## andlf (Feb 6, 2008)

A.Wilder said:


> Question: if you have adjustable suspension, will it wear out faster on the firmest setting and wear out at a slower rate on a softer setting?
> 
> Just curious.


I've had Koni adjustable shocks on my Corrado for years and years. They're on the firmest setting and still feel fine...my $ .02.


----------



## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

andlf said:


> I've had Koni adjustable shocks on my *Corrado* for years and years. They're on the firmest setting and still feel fine...my $ .02.


They don't wear out on jack stands...


----------



## andlf (Feb 6, 2008)

A.Wilder said:


> They don't wear out on jack stands...


you funny! :laugh:


----------



## RobMarkToo (Apr 21, 2012)

What changed recently that has made heated seats something that can be found in pretty much any car, even economy cars, whereas in the past it was a luxury car only feature?


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

A.Wilder said:


> Question: if you have adjustable suspension, will it wear out faster on the firmest setting and wear out at a slower rate on a softer setting?
> 
> Just curious.


Depends on how much abuse. Stiff suspension will stress contact points/bearings. Soft will generally just affect springs and dampers. Sway bar will likely not wear out. 

The loads all have to be transferred somewhere. Springs wear out from cyclical use, not age. Dampers wear out from leakage, cavitation, and/or crappy oil.



RobMarkToo said:


> What changed recently that has made heated seats something that can be found in pretty much any car, even economy cars, whereas in the past it was a luxury car only feature?


Customer preferences. $100 worth of work can add $1000 to the sticker price. Much like the standardization of power windows and locks instead of cranks and levers.


----------



## choochoo (Nov 12, 2008)

caveman questions:
if your battery is dead, how would you disengage an electronic ebrake? 
if your battery is dead, how would you shift into neutral on some of these new cars with the fancy push button "PRND" or the electronic shift levers?
















For some reason you own an Infiniti Q50 with the DAS, steer by wire, system and your alternator/battery dies, how would you steer the car?


----------



## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

choochoo said:


> caveman questions:
> if your battery is dead, how would you disengage an electronic ebrake?
> if your battery is dead, how would you shift into neutral on some of these new cars with the fancy push button "PRND" or the electronic shift levers?
> 
> ...


Just looking at the diagram it looks like there is a backup mechanical system on the Infiniti?


----------



## choochoo (Nov 12, 2008)

A.Wilder said:


> Just looking at the diagram it looks like there is a backup mechanical system on the Infiniti?


You're right. It shows it in this picture too.








So, normally, it's disengaged???? confused...


----------



## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

That's how BMW's Active Front Steering is - in 'normal' operation, the steering wheel isn't exactly connected to the steering gear. In the event of system failure, a lock engages, and reverts it to 'standard' steering. 

As for electric parking brakes: That depends. Any electric caliper setup that I've seen, the only way to manually release it is to remove the parking brake actuator from the caliper. 
Electric drum-type parking brakes, those typically have (had, I guess, since they're mostly obsoleted now) a manual release somewhere in the luggage compartment. 

Full DBW transmissions: Depends on a lot. Using BMW as an example: 
E65 (the first of them) had a key-locked emergency release, above the hood release handle. Worked brilliantly, secure, was great. I guess it cost too much....
E60/E63 (the second batch): key-locked emergency release, located below the shifter trim plate. Also worked great. It went away..... 
All of that was replaced (late 6HP, and early 8HP transmissions) with a lock-release screw, on the side of the transmission. It... works. Sucks when it's raining, or ground covered in snow. 
Later 8HP: The screw went away. There is now a special tool set to first pull the release lever down (tool 1), and hold it down (tool 2.) 
There's a rain dance that you can use to electrically release the trans - however, it requires that the engine can be cranked (read: battery isn't deaddead), but absolutely cannot even try to start. 

SMG, DCT (dual-clutch), and electric cars: No manual release.


----------



## choochoo (Nov 12, 2008)

cuppie said:


> SMG, DCT (dual-clutch), and electric cars: No manual release.


So, does SMG and DCT default to neutral if there's no electrical power?


----------



## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

choochoo said:


> So, does SMG and DCT default to neutral if there's no electrical power?


 Nope. 
SMG can be parked in neutral - but, the car will (rightfully) bark at you if you do it. And, well, you need power to shift the trans (or, to release the clutch.) So.....
DCT: parking lock (which, well, works pretty much just like on an auto trans) is electric. No power = can't release. 

Side note: an i3's parking lock is a high-voltage part. So, if, for whatever reason, the HV system can't be started up, then the parking lock cannot be released. 

For any of these, the recommendation is to dolly (not drag) the car onto (and off of) a flatbed.


----------



## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

Let's say you are a Texan and unaware of the legendary C63, and your car has been underwater. Could you give it a few days to dry out and start it? Would the battery go flat from being under water? Would the electrics be completely shot from the water? Alternatively, is there anything you can do to waterproof a modern car? Or is there so many electric modules that would get soaked making it a moot point?

https://youtu.be/wcZqlrmxlO4


----------



## choochoo (Nov 12, 2008)

cuppie said:


> For any of these, the recommendation is to dolly (not drag) the car onto (and off of) a flatbed.


I'd hope one wouldn't experience too many tows within a 3 year lease. I guess MFG's are banking on this too.


----------



## doublec4 (Feb 26, 2009)

Question:

How do I get my VW check engine light to go out and stay out :laugh:


----------



## Viking (Jul 31, 2002)

doublec4 said:


> Question:
> 
> How do I get my VW check engine light to go out and stay out :laugh:


Pull the bulb.


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

doublec4 said:


> Question:
> 
> How do I get my VW check engine light to go out and stay out :laugh:


Or a piece of tape.

My Q:
What cars are out there that you just don't get, or are overrated?

 Just kidding. 

Is the back of a Volkswagen _really _that uncomfortable?


----------



## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

I've always been taught brake shudder was due to rotor warpage, until I came to TCL. Now it seems as if brake pads deposits are usually the typical cause of shudder.

Now, do rotors still need to be turned to solve this? Or can they just be lightly sanded.

The brakes on the wife's car were done about 2 years ago by my parents before we got it. The pads still have tons of life, rotors "look" fine, no ridges or anything. I'm doing other work on the car, and thought I'd touch up the brakes while I'm at it. Can I just scuff the rotors with sand paper? It doesn't "need" brake work, just has a slight shudder, and figured I'd touch it up while everything is apart.


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Deposits can be removed with the standard bed in procedure. Search brake pad bedding all variations on a theme designed to introduce heat into the rotor and pads so that the pads leave a nice even coat all the way around


----------



## DonL (Feb 28, 1999)

GreenandChrome said:


> Is the back of a Volkswagen _really _that uncomfortable?


Depends on the VW. Wifey and I, er... enjoyed my Fox wagon quite a bit on several occasions. 

Wait, is this a phrasing thing? Is "back of a Volkswagen" code for something?


----------



## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

DonL said:


> Depends on the VW. Wifey and I, er... enjoyed my Fox wagon quite a bit on several occasions.
> 
> Wait, is this a phrasing thing? Is "back of a Volkswagen" code for something?


It's from a ****ty 90s movie everyone pretended to like because it was the new hot thing.


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

A.Wilder said:


> It's from a ****ty 90s movie everyone pretended to like because it was the new hot thing.


What movie?


----------



## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

Air and water do mix said:


> What movie?


Mallrats, iirc. Something Kevin Smith.


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

A.Wilder said:


> Mallrats, iirc. Something Kevin Smith.


Ah, thanks. I saw Clerks, but that was it. :beer:


----------



## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

Air and water do mix said:


> Ah. I saw Clerks, but that was it.


The running gag in mallrats is that Butt Chin likes to swoop in on recently single girls at the mall and have sex with them in an "uncomfortable position"


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

Got it. 

So someone responded with "the back of a Volkswagen?"


----------



## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

Air and water do mix said:


> Got it.
> 
> So someone responded with "the back of a Volkswagen?"


Bingo! Every time.


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

A.Wilder said:


> The running gag in mallrats is that Butt Chin likes to swoop in on recently single girls at the mall and have sex with them in an "uncomfortable position"


Butt Chin = Ben Affleck
Uncomfortable place = Anal


----------



## KizashiAGP (Jun 29, 2016)

What is the deal with caliper location? Is it just "where ever it fits" or does it really matter with specific vehicles? Heat dissipation? More efficient braking at high speeds?


----------



## Silly_me (Jul 26, 1999)

KizashiAGP said:


> What is the deal with caliper location?


Porsche was the first, I recall, moving the rear calipers inwards, the claim was for weight distribution.


----------



## KizashiAGP (Jun 29, 2016)

Silly_me said:


> Porsche was the first, I recall, moving the rear calipers inwards, the claim was for weight distribution.


Very interesting :thumbup:


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Why do all the new Audi RS models seem to come with standard automatic rather than DSG or the Audi equivalent? According to last month's C&D at least.


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

KizashiAGP said:


> What is the deal with caliper location? Is it just "where ever it fits" or does it really matter with specific vehicles? Heat dissipation? More efficient braking at high speeds?


On the rears, the designer has more options, and can design based on weight distribution, etc.
But on the front, it's typically a function being opposite of the steering rack, which is often a function of the car being FWD, RWD or AWD, engine sump location, etc.

Braking performance will be the same, since they act against a rotational force with no other moment arm, so placement won't affect things like brake dive.


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

KizashiAGP said:


> What is the deal with caliper location? Is it just "where ever it fits" or does it really matter with specific vehicles? Heat dissipation? More efficient braking at high speeds?


Purely race derived. You try to get all weight inside the axles.


----------



## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

Why would a 2014 S5 not have the Recaro seats? Someone pulled a fast one and swapped them for A5/A5 Cabriolet seats? 

http://www.deanmccrary.com/used/Audi/2014-Audi-S5-059d9b8e0a0e0ae867dfbbafa61697d4.htm


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

DonPatrizio said:


> Why would a 2014 S5 not have the Recaro seats? Someone pulled a fast one and swapped them for A5/A5 Cabriolet seats?
> 
> http://www.deanmccrary.com/used/Audi/2014-Audi-S5-059d9b8e0a0e0ae867dfbbafa61697d4.htm


Or maybe the seats were destroyed and replaced with something on hand?


----------



## GraphiteAZ (Jun 21, 2017)

Can I get a break down of what effect port angle in a head has on cylinder efficiency and overall impact on spool time for a divided housing turbo? Please also include the mathematical equations to support your point.


----------



## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

GraphiteAZ said:


> Can I get a break down of what effect port angle in a head has on cylinder efficiency and overall impact on spool time for a divided housing turbo? Please also include the mathematical equations to support your point.


No.


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

GraphiteAZ said:


> Can I get a break down of what effect port angle in a head has on cylinder efficiency and overall impact on spool time for a divided housing turbo? Please also include the mathematical equations to support your point.


Of course you can. As long as you fund the study. 

Please provide all other variables such as, but not limited to, compression ratio, combustion chamber shape, number, size and spacing of valves, shape of piston top, number of cylinders and RPM range plus desired optimal hp/torque levels before submission or we cannot guarantee outcome.


----------



## Buickboy92 (Sep 5, 2009)

I hope that this thread is the right place to ask this question; what style of BMW rims are these? I have looked everywhere, and cannot find the style number. Any help?








​
Thanks.


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

GraphiteAZ said:


> Can I get a break down of what effect port angle in a head has on cylinder efficiency and overall impact on spool time for a divided housing turbo? *Please also include the mathematical equations to support your point.*


the symbols required aren't supported by html/bb code. so sorry.


----------



## patrikman (May 10, 2008)

Coilovers.

Salted roads.

Should I wait until spring? My rear shocks are toast, which makes me want to do it before winter but I don't want them to be crusty and nasty forever. Thoughts?


----------



## Just Another Sweater (Aug 11, 2002)

patrikman said:


> Coilovers.
> 
> Salted roads.
> 
> Should I wait until spring? My rear shocks are toast, which makes me want to do it before winter but I don't want them to be crusty and nasty forever. Thoughts?


I had a set of PSS9s for a short time in 2002. Even after a liberal application of grease, the locking collars seized after one winter. I tried to adjust them in the spring and ended up cutting off the collars. I replaced the collars upon removal and just switched to springs/shocks.

Unless someone invented a super protectant for coilovers, I say avoid using them in areas where road salt is used.


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

I have heard of people wrapping stainless steel coilover bodies with cling film to keep the threads clean..


----------



## DonL (Feb 28, 1999)

What about something like cosmoline or one of those spray-on waxy underbody protectants?


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

DonL said:


> What about something like cosmoline or one of those spray-on waxy underbody protectants?


Real Cosmoline moght work, but you'd never get it off. Butter under cling wrap would be more effective than most undercoating oils. In fact, ATF under Saran wrap would likely be awesome.


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

patrikman said:


> Coilovers.
> 
> Salted roads.
> 
> Should I wait until spring? My rear shocks are toast, which makes me want to do it before winter but I don't want them to be crusty and nasty forever. Thoughts?


If people cover them with grease, that's a bad thing from the get-go, as that will hold particulates, rather than keep things clean. Silicone spray would be a better option; spray liberally whenever you go out in nasty weather.

More often than not, it's just heat that screws things up. You can have an immaculate body and still have galling and difficultly spanning just because the nut gets .000001" out of round.

But hey, you can always dress up your coilovers with these:


----------



## patrikman (May 10, 2008)

Reflex Silver 2.0T said:


> I had a set of PSS9s for a short time in 2002. Even after a liberal application of grease, the locking collars seized after one winter. I tried to adjust them in the spring and ended up cutting off the collars. I replaced the collars upon removal and just switched to springs/shocks.
> 
> Unless someone invented a super protectant for coilovers, I say avoid using them in areas where road salt is used.





thegave said:


> I have heard of people wrapping stainless steel coilover bodies with cling film to keep the threads clean..





DonL said:


> What about something like cosmoline or one of those spray-on waxy underbody protectants?





atomicalex said:


> Real Cosmoline moght work, but you'd never get it off. Butter under cling wrap would be more effective than most undercoating oils. In fact, ATF under Saran wrap would likely be awesome.





GreenandChrome said:


> If people cover them with grease, that's a bad thing from the get-go, as that will hold particulates, rather than keep things clean. Silicone spray would be a better option; spray liberally whenever you go out in nasty weather.
> 
> More often than not, it's just heat that screws things up. You can have an immaculate body and still have galling and difficultly spanning just because the nut gets .000001" out of round.
> 
> But hey, you can always dress up your coilovers with these:


That's what I feared, thanks all. I really need to find a cheap motor for the winter heater. Or a new winter beater with a heater.


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

patrikman said:


> That's what I feared, thanks all. I really need to find a cheap motor for the winter heater. Or a new winter beater with a heater.


Don't you have a Subaru? Or do you just use that for profiling purposes?


----------



## D_B_Jetta (Apr 27, 2006)

patrikman said:


> Coilovers.
> 
> Salted roads.
> 
> Should I wait until spring? My rear shocks are toast, which makes me want to do it before winter but I don't want them to be crusty and nasty forever. Thoughts?


I ran Koni coilovers for several years on my old MK4 in salt happy Ontario. They never seized on me. 
The GFs daily MK5 has Konis as well, after 5 years they still spin fine. 

We have used a protector spray a few times, but I always give them a spin during wheel change-over spring and fall. 

:beer:
G


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## patrikman (May 10, 2008)

GreenandChrome said:


> Don't you have a Subaru? Or do you just use that for profiling purposes?


According to TCL I'm like Ross1013, except for Subarus.



D_B_Jetta said:


> I ran Koni coilovers for several years on my old MK4 in salt happy Ontario. They never seized on me.
> The GFs daily MK5 has Konis as well, after 5 years they still spin fine.
> 
> We have used a protector spray a few times, but I always give them a spin during wheel change-over spring and fall.
> ...


Wisconsin is salt crazy, it's disgusting. And these aren't Konis, they are BCs. Nobody else makes coilovers for my thingamabob.


----------



## MAC (Dec 9, 1999)

Why do some of the medium duty pickup trucks and many ford cargo vans have different track widths front and rear? Or is it an optical illusion?


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

MAC said:


> Why do some of the medium duty pickup trucks and many ford cargo vans have different track widths front and rear? Or is it an optical illusion?


Most do structurally. It can also look more obvious with body shapes. It's done for turning and stability.


----------



## simple (Mar 29, 2001)

MAC said:


> Why do some of the medium duty pickup trucks and many ford cargo vans have different track widths front and rear? Or is it an optical illusion?


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackermann_steering_geometry

Look at the steering rack of those medium/heavy duty trucks and vans. They are not rack and pinion systems. They use linkages. The narrower track rear helps with the steering.

(PS I hate how the track width looks so I put 2 inch spacers on the rear wheels of my van)


----------



## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

Why don't the FMVSS require dissonant 2-tone horns? Too many cars have a pitiful "meep meep" one-tone clown-car horn from the factory. You can't even hear it honk over your own car's road noise, so how's it suppose to warn that soccer mom in the SUV about to run you off the road?

https://www.nhtsa.gov/laws-regulations/fmvss

And it isn't just "cheap" cars like the Jetta-VI. My 2008 MS3 Grand Touring had a lame one-tone horn as well. It's easily fixable if you DIY but it shouldn't be necessary.

http://www.fixmyvw.com/clearance-pr...at-5-year-warranty-3b0951221-3b0951223-1-set/


----------



## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

g-man_ae said:


> Why don't the FMVSS require dissonant 2-tone horns? Too many cars have a pitiful "meep meep" one-tone clown-car horn from the factory. You can't even hear it honk over your own car's road noise, so how's it suppose to warn that soccer mom in the SUV about to run you off the road?
> 
> https://www.nhtsa.gov/laws-regulations/fmvss
> 
> ...


My wife's Mazda3 had that crappy single-tone horn as well. I upgraded it to 4 horns, and now it's loud as ****. :laugh:


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

simple said:


> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackermann_steering_geometry
> 
> Look at the steering rack of those medium/heavy duty trucks and vans. They are not rack and pinion systems. They use linkages. The narrower track rear helps with the steering.
> 
> (PS I hate how the track width looks so I put 2 inch spacers on the rear wheels of my van)


Ackerman is only as the wheels turn.


----------



## dan of montana (Mar 30, 2015)

Why have pinch welds as jacking points? Seems so dumb.


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

dan of montana said:


> Why have pinch welds as jacking points? Seems so dumb.


because auto manufacturers want you to take your car into service bays with lifts and make it near impossible for shadetree mechanics.


----------



## dan of montana (Mar 30, 2015)

GreenandChrome said:


> because auto manufacturers want you to take your car into service bays with lifts and make it near impossible for shadetree mechanics.


It must suck for them to have their strategy thwarted..... by a hockey puck.

Thanks for the reply!


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

dan of montana said:


> Why have pinch welds as jacking points? Seems so dumb.


Because you can use a 4 pound widowmaker jack with them that fits inside the rim of the spare tire.

Every time I get a new car, I spend time figuring out the best way to lift it with my hydraulic jack and various chunks of wood blocking if required.
IMO, The pinch weld is for road emergencies only, and only with the stock jack.


----------



## MAC (Dec 9, 1999)

simple said:


> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackermann_steering_geometry
> 
> Look at the steering rack of those medium/heavy duty trucks and vans. They are not rack and pinion systems. They use linkages. The narrower track rear helps with the steering.
> 
> (PS I hate how the track width looks so I put 2 inch spacers on the rear wheels of my van)


So it's not manufacturer sloppiness?  
Mind. Blown.


----------



## MAC (Dec 9, 1999)

g-man_ae said:


> Why don't the FMVSS require dissonant 2-tone horns? Too many cars have a pitiful "meep meep" one-tone clown-car horn from the factory. You can't even hear it honk over your own car's road noise, so how's it suppose to warn that soccer mom in the SUV about to run you off the road?
> 
> https://www.nhtsa.gov/laws-regulations/fmvss
> 
> ...


How did we arrive at this convention where smaller cars have ***** horns? Stands to reason that every motor vehicle should have an equal volume. In the meantime hella horns go in all my cars.


----------



## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

MAC said:


> How did we arrive at this convention where smaller cars have ***** horns? Stands to reason that every motor vehicle should have an equal volume. In the meantime hella horns go in all my cars.


Just an observation - and it was cheaper cars, not necessarily smaller ones.

Another example: the current VW Beetle, only the SEL and R-Line trims have the dual horns; the rest have single horns. And all of the B7 Passats and CCs - the more expensive of VW's non-SUV offerings - have dual horns as well.


----------



## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

g-man_ae said:


> Why don't the FMVSS require dissonant 2-tone horns? Too many cars have a pitiful "meep meep" one-tone clown-car horn from the factory. You can't even hear it honk over your own car's road noise, so how's it suppose to warn that soccer mom in the SUV about to run you off the road?


I've never had an issue with my stock horns (VW, Mazda) being too quiet, so the Hella Supertone mod always confused me. What I'd like, honestly, is a softer pedestrian horn, or a courtesy horn, on a separate button so I don't have to use the main horn for smaller jobs.


----------



## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

MrMook said:


> I've never had an issue with my stock horns (VW, Mazda) being too quiet, so the Hella Supertone mod always confused me.


It depends on the model. On the Mazda front, the 3's got the clown car horn, everything else got a proper dual horn IIRC. And I already pointed out some of the differences across VWs.


----------



## MAC (Dec 9, 1999)

Got another one. My '17 GLI front calipers have machined cuts across them, one on each end, L shaped notches. The weird thing is that the cuts were made after they were coated red. What are the cuts for?


----------



## 1x1 (Jul 30, 2016)

*Toyota Hilux*

Toyota Hilux.

Pronounced High-lux or Hee-lux?


----------



## VWestlife (Sep 29, 2004)

MrMook said:


> What I'd like, honestly, is a softer pedestrian horn, or a courtesy horn, on a separate button so I don't have to use the main horn for smaller jobs.


Older Mercedes S-classes had separate "city" and "country" horns and a switch on the dashboard to select between them.


----------



## 0dd_j0b (Sep 22, 2007)

1x1 said:


> Toyota Hilux.
> 
> Pronounced High-lux or Hee-lux?


The machines know best 





But yeah, it is high-lux


----------



## VWestlife (Sep 29, 2004)

g-man_ae said:


> Why don't the FMVSS require dissonant 2-tone horns? Too many cars have a pitiful "meep meep" one-tone clown-car horn from the factory. You can't even hear it honk over your own car's road noise, so how's it suppose to warn that soccer mom in the SUV about to run you off the road?


The 2011 Sonata had one of those wimpy single-tone horns:






But for 2012 (IIRC) they upgraded it to a dual-tone horn.


----------



## 1x1 (Jul 30, 2016)

0dd_j0b said:


> The machines know best
> 
> 
> 
> ...


This is what I though, but I've heard so many people pronounce it Hee-lux that I began thinking I was in the wrong. Thanks!


----------



## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

What is this lock for on Ferrari 328? Fuel, oil cap, fuses?


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

My rear brakes are making this creaking/groaning/stretching sound as I am _slowly_ coming to a stop. My mechanic thinks it is warped rotors causing the pads to move about in the carrier.

Being an avid TCL consumer and elitist who knows more than the paid professional, I suspect it’s pad deposits so I did the whole pad bedding-in procedure (like really hardcore pads smoking and the smell of burning) to refresh the rotors but now the sound is worse, ie louder, starts sooner and at higher speeds. 

Do I need to do the bed in procedure again (it’s a pain in the ass to find somewhere to do it safely without getting arrested) or should I be looking at something else? Pads and caliper sliders were lubed repeatedly and thoroughly and that did not make a difference. The noise kind of reminds me of when you’re driving with the handbrake still partially engaged, but apparently there is no sign of anything binding.


----------



## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

A.Wilder said:


> What is this lock for on Ferrari 328? Fuel, oil cap, fuses?


Door lock?


----------



## Turbo II (Jun 9, 2017)

A.Wilder said:


> Door lock?


I think that's a bit too far for a door lock. If you have a look the lock is at the back end of the vent.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

Turbo II said:


> I think that's a bit too far for a door lock. If you have a look the lock is at the back end of the vent.


Maybe a rear hatch lock/release?


----------



## NashGTI (Mar 8, 2006)

I won't claim to know for certain, but it was common for cars to have a separate key to activate the alarm back in the day so it's possible it's that.


----------



## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

IIRC, there's one on each side - it locks the louver down. 
Insert and turn key, remove louver, so you can, oh, clean the window.


----------



## CostcoPizza (Jan 20, 2008)

There's been a couple instances where I've read that wider tires are prone to tramlining more than narrower ones.

This makes 0 sense in my mind. 

Wider tires = heavier = more force required to change direction (and follow the grooves in the road!)

What am I missing?


----------



## thegoodson (Sep 8, 2005)

CostcoPizza said:


> There's been a couple instances where I've read that wider tires are prone to tramlining more than narrower ones.
> 
> This makes 0 sense in my mind.
> 
> ...



It’s true. Wider contact patch, as opposed to a narrow contact patch, with the same load will have less directional stability in a straight line. The tire has a wider “view” of the road, and will tend to be pulled/pushed by surface irregularities.

Simple example: cut butter with a knife, with the blade vertically, and horizontally. Vertically goes right through. Horizontal, you have more resistance, and the blade will tend to slide back and forth.


----------



## Turbo II (Jun 9, 2017)

cuppie said:


> IIRC, there's one on each side - it locks the louver down.
> Insert and turn key, remove louver, so you can, oh, clean the window.


Gotta protect those windows .


----------



## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

thegave said:


> My rear brakes are making this creaking/groaning/stretching sound as I am _slowly_ coming to a stop. My mechanic thinks it is warped rotors causing the pads to move about in the carrier.
> 
> Being an avid TCL consumer and elitist who knows more than the paid professional, I suspect it’s pad deposits so I did the whole pad bedding-in procedure (like really hardcore pads smoking and the smell of burning) to refresh the rotors but now the sound is worse, ie louder, starts sooner and at higher speeds.
> 
> Do I need to do the bed in procedure again (it’s a pain in the ass to find somewhere to do it safely without getting arrested) or should I be looking at something else? Pads and caliper sliders were lubed repeatedly and thoroughly and that did not make a difference. The noise kind of reminds me of when you’re driving with the handbrake still partially engaged, but apparently there is no sign of anything binding.


I'd pull everything apart and lube the slide pins and the ears of the where they contact the carrier. See if that helps.


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

Who was the idiot that made "5MT" or "6MT" and similar the common notation for speeds/transmissions?

It should be 5M or 6M. The abbreviation is # of speeds : type of transmission. The "T" is redundant and is no different than saying ATM machine or PIN number.


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## DerSpiegel (Jun 20, 2008)

GreenandChrome said:


> Who was the idiot that made "5MT" or "6MT" and similar the common notation for speeds/transmissions?
> 
> It should be 5M or 6M. The abbreviation is # of speeds : type of transmission. The "T" is redundant and is no different than saying ATM machine or PIN number.


I'm actually going to take a stab at this. My guess is it's an evolution of the nomenclature used in old newspaper car ads. Back in the day, you paid by line for an ad in the paper so you abbreviated everything possible. Spelling out Manuel Transmission took up way too many characters, even Manual was too long. So, the abbreviations MT and AT were frequently used. 

With today's galaxy of transmissions available with different numbers of gears, adding that number in front of MT or AT makes sense from a clarity perspective - 5MT, 6AT, etc.

But yeah I get it, it's like when people used to refer to NIC Cards in computers....which literally translates to Network Interface Card Card.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

DerSpiegel said:


> But yeah I get it, it's like when people used to refer to NIC Cards in computers....which literally translates to Network Interface Card Card.


Or when your road beef sandwich comes with au jus. :laugh:


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## squelchy451 (May 19, 2016)

GreenandChrome said:


> Who was the idiot that made "5MT" or "6MT" and similar the common notation for speeds/transmissions?
> 
> It should be 5M or 6M. The abbreviation is # of speeds : type of transmission. The "T" is redundant and is no different than saying ATM machine or PIN number.


If someone says/writes "The car is equipped with a 5MT transmission", then yes, redundant. I'm not nearly bothered by this notation as the lack of 5M/6M cars here in the US.


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

squelchy451 said:


> If someone says/writes "The car is equipped with a 5MT transmission", then yes, redundant. I'm not nearly bothered by this notation as the lack of 5M/6M cars here in the US.


For communications people, this is a thing.


----------



## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

Why does my FJ "shudder" letting off the clutch on inclines only when cold?


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

TooFitToQuit said:


> Why does my FJ "shudder" letting off the clutch on inclines only when cold?


because it's getting worn.


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

GreenandChrome said:


> because it's getting worn.


It's in no way slipping though.


----------



## 0dd_j0b (Sep 22, 2007)

Sounds like clutch chatter, I get the same thing when it is cold.


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

TooFitToQuit said:


> It's in no way slipping though.


it's one of the signs of wear. there could also be a small oil leak that burns off when it warms up. Or there's a buildup on the contact surfaces.


----------



## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

It could also be intensified since it's always in 4WD I suppose.


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## 0dd_j0b (Sep 22, 2007)

GreenandChrome said:


> it's one of the signs of wear. there could also be a small oil leak that burns off when it warms up. Or there's a buildup on the contact surfaces.


Is it possible that there is air in the slave cylinder, and preventing enough pressure to the TO bearing to fully disengage the clutch?


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## Hostile (Nov 18, 2001)

GreenandChrome said:


> Who was the idiot that made "5MT" or "6MT" and similar the common notation for speeds/transmissions?
> 
> It should be 5M or 6M. The abbreviation is # of speeds : type of transmission. The "T" is redundant and is no different than saying ATM machine or PIN number.


It’s only redundant if you say “5MT transmission”...

There is nothing redundant about “5MT”.


----------



## 0dd_j0b (Sep 22, 2007)

Should I be worried about the value of my 13' WRX dropping with the lawsuit that popped up not long ago (https://www.torquenews.com/1084/new-subaru-lawsuit-claims-engine-defect-2013-14-wrxsti) as I am on my 2nd engine for the issue that the lawsuit exists, as well as the suddenly news that Subaru Inspectors were unqualified (still waiting to hear more on that).

I'm trying to avoid a new auto loan until after I get settled in after transitioning out of the military, but if I am going to go into negative equity on the car (I am roughly breaking even) then I'll go trade it in for a less scandalous company. Or will the WRX/STI fanbois always want stupid money for a stupid car?


----------



## DerSpiegel (Jun 20, 2008)

Air and water do mix said:


> Or when your roast beef sandwich comes with au jus. :laugh:


:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: 

Or how about a party "at Chez Jones"

Been guilty of that one myself. Lulz.


----------



## DerSpiegel (Jun 20, 2008)

0dd_j0b said:


> Should I be worried about the value of my 13' WRX dropping with the lawsuit that popped up not long ago (https://www.torquenews.com/1084/new-subaru-lawsuit-claims-engine-defect-2013-14-wrxsti) as I am on my 2nd engine for the issue that the lawsuit exists, as well as the suddenly news that Subaru Inspectors were unqualified (still waiting to hear more on that).
> 
> I'm trying to avoid a new auto loan until after I get settled in after transitioning out of the military, but if I am going to go into negative equity on the car (I am roughly breaking even) then I'll go trade it in for a less scandalous company. Or will the WRX/STI fanbois always want stupid money for a stupid car?


Hard to say....depends on what the actual cause is and the percentage of cars affected, is there data on that?

In the meantime I think you can still count on "the WRX/STI fanbois always want stupid money for a stupid car"

I'm genuinely curious now, has the cause been pinpointed?


----------



## SLC_Punker (Mar 2, 2002)

TooFitToQuit said:


> Why does my FJ "shudder" letting off the clutch on inclines only when cold?





0dd_j0b said:


> Sounds like clutch chatter, I get the same thing when it is cold.





GreenandChrome said:


> it's one of the signs of wear. there could also be a small oil leak that burns off when it warms up. Or there's a buildup on the contact surfaces.





TooFitToQuit said:


> It could also be intensified since it's always in 4WD I suppose.


I came to this thread to ask basically the same exact question about my WRX. Just started noticing it in the past 2 weeks: only in the morning when it's cold, and only on an incline. A little googling showed some people saying for a WRX it's the hill assist releasing, and it's normal when cold. I'm still under warranty, so i wonder if it's worth having the dealer look things over, even though it'd be really hard for them to reproduce it. I was worried it was a differential or throwout bearing or something. Definitely not a clutch slipping.


----------



## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

VWestlife said:


> The 2011 Sonata had one of those wimpy single-tone horns:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


My 2016 Chevy Cruze rental is also single-tone.

Figures, the cars that need a loud horn the most - since they're easily overlooked by drivers of SUVs, trucks, and minivans - get the cheapest, wimpiest horns.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

At my work we have safety belts for climbing utility poles, inside these belts is a red layer. When the red layer is showing the belt can not be used or repaired and must be replaced. Why don't we have a similar system for tires? I hate seeing old beaters running around with a micron of rubber over the belts. This seems like a simple way to let idiot consumers know, and police as well, that you need to change your GD tires!


----------



## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

TooFitToQuit said:


> Why does my FJ "shudder" letting off the clutch on inclines only when cold?


Single mass clutch?


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

A.Wilder said:


> At my work we have safety belts for climbing utility poles, inside these belts is a red layer. When the red layer is showing the belt can not be used or repaired and must be replaced. Why don't we have a similar system for tires? I hate seeing old beaters running around with a micron of rubber over the belts. This seems like a simple way to let idiot consumers know, and police as well, that you need to change your GD tires!


you mean the wear bars aren't good enough?


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

GreenandChrome said:


> you mean the wear bars aren't good enough?


Walk around a Walmart parking lot and you tell me!


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

A.Wilder said:


> Walk around a Walmart parking lot and you tell me!


Nobody walks around a Walmart. They Rascal!

(full disclosure: I'm approaching that point with my front tires, the backs aren't too far behind on the Adventure Rig)


----------



## 0dd_j0b (Sep 22, 2007)

DerSpiegel said:


> Hard to say....depends on what the actual cause is and the percentage of cars affected, is there data on that?
> 
> In the meantime I think you can still count on "the WRX/STI fanbois always want stupid money for a stupid car"
> 
> I'm genuinely curious now, has the cause been pinpointed?


I have to find the article I was reading to remember all the details, but IIRC it was something along the lines of poor oil flow for the bearings and causing them to spin. (funnily nothing about ringland issues was mentioned)
The article I linked also mentioned a class action lawsuit on 11-14 models for excessive oil consumption. Which isn't shocking. Still waiting for more news on how many cars were affected. I'll have to do a bit of interweb scanning

I don't get how an engine Subaru has had for decades still has these issues... Honestly I would not mind the car if it had a normal engine that worked and I wouldn't hate fest all over it.


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## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

A.Wilder said:


> At my work we have safety belts for climbing utility poles, inside these belts is a red layer. When the red layer is showing the belt can not be used or repaired and must be replaced. Why don't we have a similar system for tires? I hate seeing old beaters running around with a micron of rubber over the belts. This seems like a simple way to let idiot consumers know, and police as well, that you need to change your GD tires!












Different indicators exist. The problem is, the people that would change tires when necessary dont need those type of indicators. They're decent human beings and know when to listen to their shop or tread depth indicator to change tires.

Then there are people that could see a giant red stripe running down their tire and still wait until cords are showing to change them.

Its not a problem of lack of indicators, its that people suck.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

What does mayo on oil cap mean?


----------



## NeverEnoughCars (Aug 2, 2013)

thegave said:


> What does mayo on oil cap mean?


Like this?


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## Turbo II (Jun 9, 2017)

thegave said:


> What does mayo on oil cap mean?


If it's what NeverEnoughCars posted then it can be anything from a condensation from weather changes all the way to a blown head gasket. Easiest way to see if its potentially a blown headgasket is if the warmed up car has white fumes coming out of the exhaust and you can see the moisture on the dipstick (obviously once the oil cools down enough to safely check).


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

VR6JH said:


> Then there are people that could see a giant red stripe running down their tire and still wait until cords are showing to change them.


I think his point was that with a big red, or yellow stripe embedded into the tread layer would be obvious to an officer while driving, where treadwear indicators and DWS/Replacement tire monitor gimmicks are only visible at close range when the vehicle is stationary.

Coloured tyre treads have been done before.


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

The 90s and early 2000s (IIRC) produced a lot of cars that had a lock on the ignition. The lock I'm referring to is one that locks the key _in_ the ignition. Typically, the operator is prevented from turning the key all the way to the "off" or "remove" position before (s)he pushes an adjacent button. I'm sure someone here knows what I'm talking about. Anyways, my question is- why?


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## Turbo II (Jun 9, 2017)

Rob Cote said:


> The 90s and early 2000s (IIRC) produced a lot of cars that had a lock on the ignition. The lock I'm referring to is one that locks the key _in_ the ignition. Typically, the operator is prevented from turning the key all the way to the "off" or "remove" position before (s)he pushes an adjacent button. I'm sure someone here knows what I'm talking about. Anyways, my question is- why?


Maybe so that someone doesn't turn the car off completely while driving by accident? I know it sounds stupid especially that if you go to around the acc position the engine stops running, but I don't see a different reason why they did it.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

Rob Cote said:


> Anyways, my question is- why?


Classmate in my High School removed the key from his Audi 4000 while driving on a windy road so he could unlock his glovebox.

The answer to a lot of "Why?" questions are the same. People are stupid, and need to be protected from themselves.


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

But the button-interlock wouldn't prevent you from removing the key while driving.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

There might be a federal law regarding it. I believe shift interlocks were required starting in the 1990s on automatics (where the key can't be removed except in P). 

Why some manufacturers went with buttons instead of internal locks (where the key simply can't be turned to the completely "OFF" position for removal), probably preference.

Also, relevant:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RHbMBaSHlI0#t=02m28s


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

Hm. The specific example that I have in mind is my 99 Wrangler, which is a manuel. Can I go all 5-year-old on you and, "Why?" Why was it federally mandated (assuming that is the reason the button is there)?


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Turbo II said:


> If it's what NeverEnoughCars posted then it can be anything from a condensation from weather changes all the way to a blown head gasket. Easiest way to see if its potentially a blown headgasket is if the warmed up car has white fumes coming out of the exhaust and you can see the moisture on the dipstick (obviously once the oil cools down enough to safely check).


Yes just like that. But more, thicker, creamier. And cleaner. 

No white fumes at temp, no oil in coolant. I’ll try the glove trick.

I’m hoping its related to a oas catch can I installed.


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## fizay (Oct 10, 2008)

what are some of the best junkyards in socal???


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## Turbo II (Jun 9, 2017)

thegave said:


> Yes just like that. But more, thicker, creamier. And cleaner.
> 
> No white fumes at temp, no oil in coolant. I’ll try the glove trick.
> 
> I’m hoping its related to a oas catch can I installed.


Good to hear there's no il in coolant, smaller possibility of head gasket leak. With the catch can make sure everything is sealed all around and stuff. And it could also be weather changes too since we're heading towards winter.


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## 0dd_j0b (Sep 22, 2007)

fizay said:


> what are some of the best junkyards in socal???


Most of the good ones are down in San Ysidro.


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

Rob Cote said:


> The 90s and early 2000s (IIRC) produced a lot of cars that had a lock on the ignition. The lock I'm referring to is one that locks the key _in_ the ignition. Typically, the operator is prevented from turning the key all the way to the "off" or "remove" position before (s)he pushes an adjacent button. I'm sure someone here knows what I'm talking about. Anyways, my question is- why?


My mom's '94 Saturn had no lock, and the key didn't lock, either. Driving you could remove the key from the ignition, the car would still run, and the steering wheel wouldn't lock. It also could be started sometimes with anything like a screwdriver. It was a manual, however.


----------



## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

GreenandChrome said:


> My mom's '94 Saturn had no lock, and the key didn't lock, either. Driving you could remove the key from the ignition, the car would still run, and the steering wheel wouldn't lock. It also could be started sometimes with anything like a screwdriver. It was a manual, however.


Wow! Sounds broken haha
My buddies old Jeep does the same thing. Its because the ignition thinks the key is still in there hence why it still runs and steers.


----------



## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

If you don’t already know, VW has just about all scheduled maintenance boiled down to 10k mileage intervals. What about the very first maintenance, though (the first 10k miles)? Shouldn’t there be an oil change at tire rotation scheduled at the first 5k miles? 10k seems a long time to run factory oil containing bits from a broken-in engine. And brand new tires need their first rotation sooner than for the rest of their service life.


----------



## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

wolfcastle said:


> Wow! Sounds broken haha
> My buddies old Jeep does the same thing. Its because the ignition thinks the key is still in there hence why it still runs and steers.


My GF's Xterra does something similar. 

Anyone know what I can do to fix it ? Sometimes you turn the key off and remove it but the car does not actually turn off... once she actually left it in drive and turned off the engine removed the key and then we found the truck at the other side of the parking lot a few minutes later... Could have been much worse :banghead:


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

g-man_ae said:


> If you don’t already know, VW has just about all scheduled maintenance boiled down to 10k mileage intervals. What about the very first maintenance, though (the first 10k miles)? Shouldn’t there be an oil change at tire rotation scheduled at the first 5k miles? 10k seems a long time to run factory oil containing bits from a broken-in engine. And brand new tires need their first rotation sooner than for the rest of their service life.


Says who? The people selling the oil/tires?

I'm absolutely horrible rotating tires. When I had FWD cars, I would buy front ones when they wore out. When the rears wore out, put new ones on the front, put the old fronts on the rear. Right now I'm putting a new set on the Adventure Rig at 48k. 20k and no rotation. The fronts are more worn than the rears, which is surprising to me on a RWD rig.

My sister one-upped me on her oil change interval. I went 12k (xB), she went 15k (Expedition). Both vehicles ran exceptionally well and went to serve new owners quite well.


----------



## simple (Mar 29, 2001)

skydive_007 said:


> Anyone know what I can do to fix it ?


You replace the ignition lock cylinder

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1515766&cc=1444649&jsn=371


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## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

g-man_ae said:


> If you don’t already know, VW has just about all scheduled maintenance boiled down to 10k mileage intervals. What about the very first maintenance, though (the first 10k miles)? Shouldn’t there be an oil change at tire rotation scheduled at the first 5k miles? 10k seems a long time to run factory oil containing bits from a broken-in engine. And brand new tires need their first rotation sooner than for the rest of their service life.


There's an oil filter for a reason. Personally, I trust the interval and the engineering. 

I do kind of agree with rotating sooner the first time, but it's not a huge deal.


----------



## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

Jimmy Russells said:


> There's an oil filter for a reason. Personally, I trust the interval and the engineering.
> 
> I do kind of agree with rotating sooner the first time, but it's not a huge deal.


And I trust it, too, beyond 10k. 10k seems long considering the break-in period.


----------



## Aseras (Dec 2, 2010)

My 2010 JSW had over 210,000 and had every oil change done by myself at the 10,000 mile interval or so. I reset the service reminder and would change it when I got around to it. Still ran good. Had to replace the turbo actuator around 140k. Did it from the top after vw quoted me the cost of a new car to do it ( r&r engine and turbo and actuator according to the book ) took me a few hours of bitching. Only major problem I had. DMF was starting to go, would sometimes do the shudder helicopter thing. Then again I parked it in September and didn't return it or even start it until my buyback in early April. So who knows. It drove there perfectly fine, I took off or out anything I put into it and put every warped bioline rim and defective hankook tire back on it in the parking lot. 

I got rid of it just in time to avoid the vw DMF/DPF tax.


----------



## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

g-man_ae said:


> If you don’t already know, VW has just about all scheduled maintenance boiled down to 10k mileage intervals. What about the very first maintenance, though (the first 10k miles)? Shouldn’t there be an oil change at tire rotation scheduled at the first 5k miles? 10k seems a long time to run factory oil containing bits from a broken-in engine. And brand new tires need their first rotation sooner than for the rest of their service life.


I don't presume to know what VW factory does. Do you? Can you be sure that the original oil (used for testing) is the same oil that gets delivered in the cars? Are you sure that _any_ oil is delivered in the cars? If they say 10k miles, you should trust 10k miles because they have more information than you, and because it's their ass that's on the line if the number is wrong. In other words, if you are correct and there should be an oil change at 5k, but they told you to do 10k and you did 10k, and a problem became of it, they are responsible, not you.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Aseras said:


> Had to replace the turbo actuator around 140k. Did it from the top after vw quoted me the cost of a new car to do it ( r&r engine and turbo and actuator according to the book )


WHy the hell are they quoting the engine and turbo for the actuator! that's not correct. Something else is wrong with that...


----------



## Hostile (Nov 18, 2001)

How do you determine the proper tire pressure for down-sized winter wheels/tires?

My factory summers are 245/40-18 and my door jamb sticker shows 33psi front and 32 psi rear.

My winters are 235/45-17 and I usually put them at 35 at the front and 34 at the rear. The max PSI for the winters is 44psi.

Tirerack says 3-5psi higher for winter tires but I think that only applies to a winter tire that is the same size as the summer/all-season.


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

Hostile said:


> How do you determine the proper tire pressure for down-sized winter wheels/tires?
> 
> My factory summers are 245/40-18 and my door jamb sticker shows 33psi front and 32 psi rear.
> 
> ...


What does the side of the tire say?

The size difference is immaterial since it's PSI, not total volume. The higher winter pressure is likely to cover the lack of pressure build from heat that you would get in warm/hot weather.


----------



## Aseras (Dec 2, 2010)

VDub2625 said:


> WHy the hell are they quoting the engine and turbo for the actuator! that's not correct. Something else is wrong with that...


The book says to remove the engine to reach the turbo and exhaust. You almost have to, to be able to do it. You couldn't even just buy the actuator alone you used to have to buy a whole new turbo and actuator together.

That's how VW rolls.

Wrote some about it at the bottom. http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/vnt-turbo-actuator-testing-and-replacement-mk5-mk6-tdi-engine/


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## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

Hostile said:


> How do you determine the proper tire pressure for down-sized winter wheels/tires?
> 
> My factory summers are 245/40-18 and my door jamb sticker shows 33psi front and 32 psi rear.
> 
> ...


Let your tires tell you. I'd run 34ish. If you see additional wear in the middle, drop them down. Wearing on the edges, bump it up. Just watching how tires wear can tell you almost everything you need to know about the health of your car.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

VR6JH said:


> Let your tires tell you.


Instead of waiting for wear patterns, use chalk, or drive on dusty pavement and see what your contact patch is.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Aseras said:


> The book says to remove the engine to reach the turbo and exhaust. You almost have to, to be able to do it. You couldn't even just buy the actuator alone you used to have to buy a whole new turbo and actuator together.
> 
> That's how VW rolls.
> 
> Wrote some about it at the bottom. http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/vnt-turbo-actuator-testing-and-replacement-mk5-mk6-tdi-engine/


Oops, I ws thinking gas since we do the actuators on the 2.0s more frequently than we do TDIs, lol. 

Our guys drop down the subframe when doing DPF jobs, I can't imagine it's harder to get to than that...


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

What’s the best kind of vehicle to draft behind for mpg benefits? A huge truck or something super aero like a Prime


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

thegave said:


> What’s the best kind of vehicle to draft behind for mpg benefits? A huge truck or something super aero like a Prime


Truck, preferably a semi. 

The problem is getting close enough to actually benefit and not get pulled over for tailgating. 

The hole punched in the air needs to be big. I followed a semi (Jim Palmer Trucking) once with my xB (already a gas miser) for a significant portion of my trip. I could lift my foot off the gas pedal and still maintain speed. I know a guy who used to drive a race car hauler and he got surrounded by long-haul truckers doing 70-80 down I-5 and he was able to barely touch the throttle and keep speed.

Something aerodynamic isn't going to give you any benefit, as the shape of the car is designed to keep the air together.


----------



## chucchinchilla (Dec 25, 2004)

thegave said:


> What’s the best kind of vehicle to draft behind for mpg benefits? A huge truck or something super aero like a Prime


Garbage truck. I did this once on my road bike. The truck itself displaces a huge amount of air and that large cavity on the back of the truck (where they dump the garbage) creates a massive vacuum/area of low pressure in which you can draft quite easily. Of course the downside to doing this, especially on a bike, is the smell.


----------



## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

When checking the fluid level in a traditional automatic transmission, the trans needs to be at operating temp and the engine needs to be running. Some require the trans to be in P, others in N, and some either P or N. Why is this? I has assumed it was because not all transmissions circulate the fluid in P, so N was required for those, but lately I've read all autos circulate the fluid as long as the engine is running, so either P or N is fine. P seems to be easier to check than N, so why do some require N?


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

IJM said:


> When checking the fluid level in a traditional automatic transmission, the trans needs to be at operating temp and the engine needs to be running. Some require the trans to be in P, others in N, and some either P or N. Why is this? I has assumed it was because not all transmissions circulate the fluid in P, so N was required for those, but lately I've read all autos circulate the fluid as long as the engine is running, so either P or N is fine. P seems to be easier to check than N, so why do some require N?


Some used to be checked in _Drive_! It took a second person to keep the brake on while the guy under the hood used the dipstick. You certainly had to trust your buddy! :laugh:

Sorry I can't actually answer the question, but I thought I'd throw that out there. You know, because it's so weird and dumb.


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## Aseras (Dec 2, 2010)

IJM said:


> When checking the fluid level in a traditional automatic transmission, the trans needs to be at operating temp and the engine needs to be running. Some require the trans to be in P, others in N, and some either P or N. Why is this? I has assumed it was because not all transmissions circulate the fluid in P, so N was required for those, but lately I've read all autos circulate the fluid as long as the engine is running, so either P or N is fine. P seems to be easier to check than N, so why do some require N?


The parking brake prawl or mechanism displaces some fluid. In N it is disengaged and does not. Just depends on the design.


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## Aseras (Dec 2, 2010)

thegave said:


> What’s the best kind of vehicle to draft behind for mpg benefits? A huge truck or something super aero like a Prime


It's actually going to depend on the shape of what you are drafting with. You need an airtunnel really.

Large objects with flat or concave backs are going to create a much larger vortex that something aerodynamic.

The trick is to be in the right position to be within the vortex and also for it to give you not just an air break but also for the air trying to fill the void to come and give you a push. You can actually increase both your and the vehicle you are tailing/drafting efficiency by reducing the drag on his vehicle as well.


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## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

Yes, I have a question 

What happens when pickup trucks are built so big and fat, that they can't fit on the roads anymore?


----------



## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

82Turbo930 said:


> Yes, I have a question
> 
> What happens when pickup trucks are built so big and fat, that they can't fit on the roads anymore?


Build bigger roads, bro.


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

Cabin Pics said:


> Build bigger roads, bro.


Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

IJM said:


> P seems to be easier to check than N, so why do some require N?





Air and water do mix said:


> Some used to be checked in _Drive_!


I'm pretty sure P and N are the same, ie. NOT Drive, like older cars  meaning the pump is running but the gears are not engaged.


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## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

Air and water do mix said:


> Some used to be checked in _Drive_! It took a second person to keep the brake on while the guy under the hood used the dipstick. You certainly had to trust your buddy! :laugh:
> 
> Sorry I can't actually answer the question, but I thought I'd throw that out there. You know, because it's so weird and dumb.


I always just put it in drive, set the emergency brake, and get out and check it. I like to live dangerously.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

VDub2625 said:


> I'm pretty sure P and N are the same, ie. NOT Drive, like older cars


I have absolutely no idea. I’d have to read the _owner’s lmanuallll_! 




VR6JH said:


> I always just put it in drive, set the emergency brake, and get out and check it. I like to live dangerously.


I’ve only done it once, and that was many years ago. 

I was just thinking that it might be good to ease the car up to a pole or wall. :laugh:


----------



## Aseras (Dec 2, 2010)

82Turbo930 said:


> Yes, I have a question
> 
> What happens when pickup trucks are built so big and fat, that they can't fit on the roads anymore?


Then you buy an RV and find out just how big a lane _REALLY_ is.


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## Xanderips (Aug 28, 2002)

82Turbo930 said:


> Yes, I have a question
> 
> What happens when pickup trucks are built so big and fat, that they can't fit on the roads anymore?


Take a flight across the pond and try driving something the size of a Passat on the back roads...

X...


----------



## RennbahnPolizei (Jun 8, 2011)

Can someone tell me why car manufacturers call their most current models a "2018 model"?


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

RennbahnPolizei said:


> Can someone tell me why car manufacturers call their most current models a "2018 model"?


ego.


----------



## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

RennbahnPolizei said:


> Can someone tell me why car manufacturers call their most current models a "2018 model"?


 Because we're in Model Year 2018. 
Model Year starts in September (give or take a month, usually; sometimes, it starts a lot earlier for a certain model), and runs thru August (or so.) 

Why? Because, well, that's just how the industry does it. 

Yes, quoting from that place.....


Wikipedia said:


> In the United States, automobile model-year sales traditionally begin with the fourth quarter of the preceding year. So model year refers to the sales model year; for example, vehicles sold during the period from October 1 to September 30 of the following year belong to a single model year.[citation needed] In addition, the launch of the new model-year has long been coordinated to the launch of the traditional new television season (as defined by A.C. Nielsen) in late September, because of the heavy dependence between television to offer products from automakers to advertise, and the car companies to launch their new models at a high-profile time of year.[1]
> 
> In other cases, products of a previous model year can continue production, especially if a newer model hasn't yet been released. In that case, the model year remains the same until a new model is introduced. This is to ensure that the model will be seen by the public, and will actually sell a number of vehicles before a new vehicle-model is produced, and people will look at the newer model rather than the previous one.
> 
> In the United States, for regulation purposes, government authorities allow cars of a given model year to be sold starting on January 1 of the previous calendar year. For example, this means that a 2019 model year vehicle can legally go on sale on January 1, 2018.[2] This has resulted in a few cars in the following model year being introduced in advertisements during the NFL's Super Bowl in February.


source


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

What’s the best way to bond a rubber (door) seal to itself?

I have silicone “glue”, contact adhesive, and liquid super glue. Silicone and contact don’t work great I don’t know if I’m not letting the contact dry long enough or holding the ends together long enough. 

Eg


----------



## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

Why do manufacturers build naturally aspirated engines at a compression lower than the maximum allowable compression possible for a given fuel grade?

Let me elaborate: Ferrari Testarossa with a 4.9L flat-12, compression ratio of 9.2:1

Why? Still wanted to be run on regular? Even back then, premium unleaded fuels could handle 12.0:1, no? What would be the advantage of running such a low compression, especially on something like a Testarossa where there wasn't really much designed compromise to performance.

Pics for clicks


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## Aseras (Dec 2, 2010)

thegave said:


> What’s the best way to bond a rubber (door) seal to itself?
> 
> I have silicone “glue”, contact adhesive, and liquid super glue. Silicone and contact don’t work great I don’t know if I’m not letting the contact dry long enough or holding the ends together long enough.
> 
> Eg


You need a iron/press you can heat to "weld" them together. I've seen guys do it with an adjustable soldering iron and spare material.


----------



## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

At what point is it too cold to run a car? Google says antifreeze is good down to negative 36. Were looking at negative 22 for a high, and negative 40-50 as a low. If the car starts, it's good? Wonder how much "cold damage" a warranty covers.


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

VR6JH said:


> At what point is it too cold to run a car? Google says antifreeze is good down to negative 36. Were looking at negative 22 for a high, and negative 40-50 as a low. If the car starts, it's good? Wonder how much "cold damage" a warranty covers.


At some point you have to start heating your block. People I know that have lived in Fairbanks all have block heaters, especially if they have to park outside. All you have to do is get the block above -36* and once it’s running your antifreeze isn’t going to freeze while you’re driving.

Probably a heat blanket for the reservoir as well.


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## Harpoon (Jan 5, 2008)

VR6JH said:


> At what point is it too cold to run a car? Google says antifreeze is good down to negative 36. Were looking at negative 22 for a high, and negative 40-50 as a low. If the car starts, it's good? Wonder how much "cold damage" a warranty covers.


Regarding coolant, you can buy a coolant tester that uses little plastic balls of different weights inside what is essentially a mini turkey baster for like two dollars that measures the gravity of your coolant and allows you to fine tune the water to anti-freeze ratio for what is optimal to your conditions. You don't want to run too much anti-freeze, because water has much better heat transfer ability than anti-freeze does, and generally a 50/50 mix is good for anything you'll ever encounter, but sometimes there's less than 50% anti-freeze which you may want to avoid given your outside temps. 

I would absolutely recommend synthetic oil for you at those temps, due to its higher level of low temp pumpability. As far as batteries go, you can buy a battery with better cold cranking amps ("CCA" rating") but as long as it'll turn the car over its fine. That's all it needs to do.

Possible damage would be if your coolant mix doesn't support temps that low and the coolant freezes and pops your freeze plugs out of the block, and also potential bearing and/or cam lobe scuffing if your oil is like honey and can't be pumped through the oil galleries for a bit until the engine warms.

Oh btw, if you're talking negative 22 for the high, it might be time to just relocate. :laugh:


----------



## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

Yeah -22 for a high, but don't worry, we'll see 110 this summer with 90% humidity. Got to love Nebraska. The fusion has a block heater so that'll get plugged in. I don't really intend to drive it during this cold snap. My charger has remote start so it'll be first choice. Only 10k miles so coolant and oil is "new" and up to spec as far as that goes. But that extreme cold will be a test on batteries and other components for sure.


----------



## Tourenwagen (Dec 28, 2002)

First post of 2018 


Not a mechanical question but a financing lease one... I'm considering leasing my next vehicle but currently own/finance one. I don't want to put a lot down on the lease but have around $15k equity in the current vehicle. Would a dealership trade my vehicle on the lease and give me a check back for the remaining equity? I assume the most fiscally responsible path would be to sell my vehicle privately but I would rather avoid the hassle.

Thanks in advance...


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Tourenwagen said:


> First post of 2018
> 
> 
> Not a mechanical question but a financing lease one... I'm considering leasing my next vehicle but currently own/finance one. I don't want to put a lot down on the lease but have around $15k equity in the current vehicle. Would a dealership trade my vehicle on the lease and give me a check back for the remaining equity? I assume the most fiscally responsible path would be to sell my vehicle privately but I would rather avoid the hassle.
> ...


The dealer is in the business of making money. Relying on them to give you a fair trade is a fool’s errand. If you have that much equity a lease is pretty foolish, too. Again, the dealer, by nature of the business, does not have your best interests at heart, believe me. At least sell the car outright and put down what you want to on the lease.


----------



## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

worth_fixing said:


> Why do manufacturers build naturally aspirated engines at a compression lower than the maximum allowable compression possible for a given fuel grade?
> 
> Let me elaborate: Ferrari Testarossa with a 4.9L flat-12, compression ratio of 9.2:1
> 
> ...


allowable compression ratio is not just a function of fuel, its a function of piston shape, head space, ignition location/number, injector firing pattern, etc etc .... the max allowable compression ratio was/is much lower as we understand and design better combustion chambers. 

we are also now using varaible dynamic compression ratio. basically, bleeding some compression ratio at some speeds/load levels using the variable valve timing system in cars. this means that while the piston actually moves through a compression ratio of 12:1 or something, the intake valves remain open while the piston is moving upwards, essentially reducing compression ratio.


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

Yep. Compression ratios at the time were nowhere _close_ to 12:1, as the engines would detonate like crazy with the tech available at the time. I remember seeing 10:1 come back and thought "damn! It's like the muscle car era again!" 

Direct injection engines can have much higher compression, as they don't have fuel in them to detonate until it's injected, which is another controlled parameter and isn't reliant on the intake valve being open. It's also why they can run leaner without detonation.


----------



## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

Air and water do mix said:


> Yep. Compression ratios at the time were nowhere _close_ to 12:1, as the engines would detonate like crazy with the tech available at the time. I remember seeing 10:1 come back and thought "damn! It's like the muscle car era again!"
> 
> Direct injection engines can have much higher compression, as they don't have fuel in them to detonate until it's injected, which is another controlled parameter and isn't reliant on the intake valve being open. It's also why they can run leaner without detonation.


excellent point, DI does allow for higher compression ratios. 

basically the history of the ICE engine is folks saying "well, the maximum compression ratio we can imagine is X:1, which means we are reaching the limits of ICE technology in terms of power and efficiency" and then someone invents a work around to allow for higher compression ratios. basically the max efficiency of an engine thermodynmaically is based directly on the compression ratio. the higher that numbers, the higher efficiency.


----------



## Power5 (Jun 19, 2001)

IJM said:


> When checking the fluid level in a traditional automatic transmission, the trans needs to be at operating temp and the engine needs to be running. Some require the trans to be in P, others in N, and some either P or N. Why is this? I has assumed it was because not all transmissions circulate the fluid in P, so N was required for those, but lately I've read all autos circulate the fluid as long as the engine is running, so either P or N is fine. P seems to be easier to check than N, so why do some require N?


Because the magic sorcery that automatic transmissions use needs to be agitated a bit to make it actually visible to us muggles using the dipstick.


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## Nealric (Feb 16, 2013)

VR6JH said:


> At what point is it too cold to run a car? Google says antifreeze is good down to negative 36. Were looking at negative 22 for a high, and negative 40-50 as a low. If the car starts, it's good? Wonder how much "cold damage" a warranty covers.


I read an article about a town in Siberia that recently hit -88F and has gotten as cold as -98F. 

https://www.washingtonpost.com/news...peratures-sink-to-88f/?utm_term=.7d7969bc7740

They still run cars in those temps. However, any car that is not parked in a heated garage is just run 24/7. I imagine you'd probably want cardboard in front of the entire radiator in that sort of situation. Heck, you could probably run just fine without a water pump. I bet Diesel engines are no-go though. Those temps are actually below the freezing point of gasoline


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## Giovanni (May 13, 2000)

When I had Mk1 VWs and the battery was dead or dying I used to be able to start the car by rolling it and putting it in second gear and releasing the clutch. 

I tried this in my Mk5 jetta and it did not work. The key was turned to the on position too. You can't do rolling starts in the newer cars???


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

I can in my mk6. Maybe you need at least some charge to disable the immobilized


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I doubt it has to charge the immobilizer. A "dead" battery will still have enough juice to run the EFI system. A rolling start won't power the alternator to do that. 

It might have something to do with emissions. There is a logic in the ECU that will kill a stalling engine- to prevent running rich, I hear, in the attempt at recovery- and that may be why the ECU gives up or does not try to run the engine at low RPM. But that's just a guess. Push-starting should provide the same RPM as a starter, if done correctly.


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## Nealric (Feb 16, 2013)

Giovanni said:


> When I had Mk1 VWs and the battery was dead or dying I used to be able to start the car by rolling it and putting it in second gear and releasing the clutch.
> 
> I tried this in my Mk5 jetta and it did not work. The key was turned to the on position too. You can't do rolling starts in the newer cars???


I thought it was the clutch lockout. On newer manual-equipped cars, the car won't start unless the clutch is depressed. But to push start, you have to let out the clutch.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Nealric said:


> I thought it was the clutch lockout. On newer manual-equipped cars, the car won't start unless the clutch is depressed. But to push start, you have to let out the clutch.


Yes but that's to engage the starter.

Should still fire the engine even though the starter won't be fired due to the clutch lock out.

How dead was that battery?


----------



## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

Is there really a need for a 707 horsepower SUV? They seem to like to roll over when they get out of shape at 35mph... doesn't make sense to put that much HP in a high center of gravity vehicle.


----------



## Nealric (Feb 16, 2013)

TwoLitreVW said:


> Yes but that's to engage the starter.
> 
> Should still fire the engine even though the starter won't be fired due to the clutch lock out.
> 
> How dead was that battery?


Not sure how the clutch lockout works. Does it just cut the starter, or does it also cut out ignition? Or does the computer not provide spark if it doesn't see the starter has been activated?


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## NotFast (Mar 20, 2002)

Feel dumb asking this...

Many years ago I heard many years ago that you could roll a car if you were getting crazy, sliding on snow/ice and then transitioned to dry pavement (think someone in an WRX, getting crazy in a snowy parking lot. True or false?


----------



## Nealric (Feb 16, 2013)

NotFast said:


> Feel dumb asking this...
> 
> Many years ago I heard many years ago that you could roll a car if you were getting crazy, sliding on snow/ice and then transitioned to dry pavement (think someone in an WRX, getting crazy in a snowy parking lot. True or false?


It's certainly theoretically possible to roll a car that is sliding sideways, but a WRX has a low enough center of gravity that it is extremely unlikely at snowy parking lot speeds.


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## InfraRedline (Jan 8, 2007)

Nealric said:


> It's certainly theoretically possible to roll a car that is sliding sideways, but a WRX has a low enough center of gravity that it is extremely unlikely at snowy parking lot speeds.


It doesn't take TOO much speed to roll if the surface changes suddenly. I wouldn't expect 30+ mph on a typical parking lot, but who knows. Where I live, parking lots are for autocross, not playing in snow.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Eut5CFQFSU


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

NotFast said:


> Feel dumb asking this...
> 
> Many years ago I heard many years ago that you could roll a car if you were getting crazy, sliding on snow/ice and then transitioned to dry pavement (think someone in an WRX, getting crazy in a snowy parking lot. True or false?


you can roll a car in a lot of circumstances. 

sliding across ice to dry pavement likely won't cause a car to flip, there'd have to be more than just a change in traction surface. my cousin hit black ice once in his subaru (nonWRX) and just slid into the curb, no flip. just broke basically everything that moved on the right side, though.

I've done a flat spin in my Golf (who hasn't) doing a snap-off throttle on gravel. I've also put an S-10 blazer on two wheels when I flat-footed across wet train tracks. 

I know a kid who rolled a ranger on a dirt/gravel back road that's supposed to be 25mph, he probably was going 35 and got sucked over the shoulder. I've seen race cars get rolled, too, on pavement.


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## Giovanni (May 13, 2000)

TwoLitreVW said:


> Yes but that's to engage the starter.
> 
> Should still fire the engine even though the starter won't be fired due to the clutch lock out.
> 
> How dead was that battery?


The battery was not dead at all. 
I just wanted to see if it would work.


----------



## Giovanni (May 13, 2000)

thegave said:


> I can in my mk6. Maybe you need at least some charge to disable the immobilized


I will try it again, thanks


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Nealric said:


> Not sure how the clutch lockout works. Does it just cut the starter, or does it also cut out ignition? Or does the computer not provide spark if it doesn't see the starter has been activated?


Fairly certain it's only purpose is to prevent engaging the starter while the car is in gear. 

It shouldn't be that involved.


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Gear_Cruncher said:


> Is there really a need for a 707 horsepower SUV? They seem to like to roll over when they get out of shape at 35mph... doesn't make sense to put that much HP in a high center of gravity vehicle.


Yes.


There's zero correlation between HP and rollovers.


----------



## thetopdog (Nov 11, 2008)

Why do people say "dash-to-axle ratio" when it seems like they're just talking about the distance between the front axle and the dash/firewall? Isn't this just a simple distance measure? Where does the "ratio" part come in?


----------



## Giovanni (May 13, 2000)

thegave said:


> I can in my mk6. Maybe you need at least some charge to disable the immobilized


I was wrong and it does work on my MK5. It takes a little long than I expected but it worked.


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

TwoLitreVW said:


> There's zero correlation between HP and rollovers.


That's correct. I rolled my first car, a '66 Beetle with 50 hp. 


Yes, the same as what I have now, but my current one handles much, much better and I'm not (as big of) an idiot any longer.


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

thetopdog said:


> Why do people say "dash-to-axle ratio" when it seems like they're just talking about the distance between the front axle and the dash/firewall? Isn't this just a simple distance measure? Where does the "ratio" part come in?


misnomer. and dumbed down. the ratio would be the division of dash to front axle and dash to rear axle.


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

TwoLitreVW said:


> Yes.
> 
> 
> There's zero correlation between HP and rollovers.





Air and water do mix said:


> That's correct. I rolled my first car, a '66 Beetle with 50 hp.


Actually, in the occurrence of self-propelled and self-realized rollovers, there indeed is a correlation. If HP is greater than 0, there is possibility of a rollover.


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

GreenandChrome said:


> Actually, in the occurrence of self-propelled and self-realized rollovers, there indeed is a correlation. If HP is greater than 0, there is possibility of a rollover.


Fair 'nuf! :laugh: :beer:


----------



## Aseras (Dec 2, 2010)

Gear_Cruncher said:


> Is there really a need for a 707 horsepower SUV? They seem to like to roll over when they get out of shape at 35mph... doesn't make sense to put that much HP in a high center of gravity vehicle.


If you build it, they will come. SUV's are the best selling model on the market. Makes sense to cater to it.


----------



## Aseras (Dec 2, 2010)

GreenandChrome said:


> Actually, in the occurrence of self-propelled and self-realized rollovers, there indeed is a correlation. If HP is greater than 0, there is possibility of a rollover.


I dunno, I've rolled a VW Bug over just by lifting the door and giving it a good push... It was easier to strip for parts on it's side. lol.


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

GreenandChrome said:


> misnomer. and dumbed down. the ratio would be the division of dash to front axle and dash to rear axle.


What is its significance?


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

thegave said:


> What is its significance?


design standards.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Standards, and manufacturing. A single line can accommodate many vehicles, but only if certain "hard" points are the same. I believe dash-to-axle was one of the main reasons for VW's modular architecture, to avoid the issues with having the same measurements across vehicle lines, giving more design freedom.


----------



## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

what happened to ryukein?


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## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

TwoLitreVW said:


> Yes.
> 
> 
> There's zero correlation between HP and rollovers.


Not really. SUVs have a hard enough time not rolling over when they get out of shape at normal highway speeds.

707 HP=speed. Speed = much greater instability especially with a high center of gravity and huge tires.


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

TwoLitreVW said:


> Yes.
> 
> 
> There's zero correlation between HP and rollovers.


Sorry, you clearly have no knowledge of Physics. A body in motion tends to stay in motion. A vehicle will tend to want to stay in the direction it’s heading, so any change in direction can start a roll. The more agressive the movement the higher the propensity for roll-over. Ask me how I know.


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

VDub2625 said:


> Standards, and manufacturing. A single line can accommodate many vehicles, but only if certain "hard" points are the same. I believe dash-to-axle was one of the main reasons for VW's modular architecture, to avoid the issues with having the same measurements across vehicle lines, giving more design freedom.


ala Chrysler's infamous "cab-forward" design.

Oh goody, now if I get in a head-on collision, not only will I likely get 2nd and 3rd degree burns from the airbag deployment, I'm going to get a wheel, tire, and suspension crammed in my footbox, destroying my legs.


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

Gear_Cruncher said:


> Not really. *SUVs have a hard enough time not rolling over when they get out of shape at normal highway speeds.*
> 
> 707 HP=speed. Speed = much greater instability especially with a high center of gravity and huge tires.


We're no longer talking about 1982 Ford Broncos here. Modern SUVs still have higher centers of gravity, but they're not exactly unstable at normal highways speeds as you were strongly implying. Also, HP does _not_ equal speed. Application of that hp=acceleration, then speed, but it's not a given. I drive my 50 horse car and keep up with traffic just fine, but if HP equalled speed they'd all run away and hide from me. Every. Last. One. It still comes down to the driver.



barry2952 said:


> Sorry, you clearly have no knowledge of Physics. A body in motion tends to stay in motion. A vehicle will tend to want to stay in the direction it’s heading, so any change in direction can start a roll. The more agressive the movement the higher the propensity for roll-over. Ask me how I know.


When I initially read it I was thinking more along the lines of "power in reserve" not applying it and changing the attitude of the vehicle, but foolish application of lots of power certainly could get a vehicle (even a very _good_ one) out of shape in short order. :beer:

To reiterate what I was saying above, as most modern SUVs have IFS and can sit lower (with no straight axle they don't need the clearance between the engine and front axle) they've become much, much better for street driving. Is a 707 hp Grand Cherokee ridiculous? Absolutely! And it's easily powerful enough to get it out of shape if the electronics don't keep it under control, but at least new ones aren't topsy-turvy like they used to be.


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

GreenandChrome said:


> ala Chrysler's infamous "cab-forward" design.
> 
> Oh goody, now if I get in a head-on collision, not only will I likely get 2nd and 3rd degree burns from the airbag deployment, I'm going to get a wheel, tire, and suspension crammed in my footbox, destroying my legs.


That was mostly about where the base of the windshield was and a long dashboard, not your relative position in the structure. Naturally they're tin cans compared to anything out now, but at the time they performed as expected in a collision. :beer:

Note how far back the dash is compared to where the a-pillars are going.


----------



## NotFast (Mar 20, 2002)

Dravenport said:


> what happened to ryukein?


I've been wondering the same thing. Does not appear to have posted in 2018 and hasn't been here since 8 January


----------



## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

NotFast said:


> I've been wondering the same thing. Does not appear to have poster in 2018 and hasn't been here since 8 January


I pm'd him and so far no response 

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


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## KizashiAGP (Jun 29, 2016)

Dravenport said:


> I pm'd him and so far no response
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


I posted in a thread about him just a few months ago. The concern is real.


----------



## NotFast (Mar 20, 2002)

Maybe he was busy with the Detroit auto show 

He's live on Instasham and Twitter so he's alive. Or did he forake us


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

What happened to the TCLer who had an F40 and then had an accident with it?


----------



## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

NotFast said:


> Maybe he was busy with the Detroit auto show
> 
> He's live on Instasham and Twitter so he's alive. Or did he forake us


whats his insta handle, ill harass him


----------



## NotFast (Mar 20, 2002)

Dravenport said:


> whats his insta handle, ill harass him


It's in his profile sig:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/member.php?302979-Ryukein


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

barry2952 said:


> Sorry, you clearly have no knowledge of Physics. A body in motion tends to stay in motion. A vehicle will tend to want to stay in the direction it’s heading, so any change in direction can start a roll. The more agressive the movement the higher the propensity for roll-over. Ask me how I know.


Wow, Barry, that's quite a leap for you.

If a given vehicle rolls over at a given speed, the amount of horsepower it has is irrelevant; it'll still roll at that speed whether it has 170hp or 700hp.

It's up to the operator to understand that it's probably a bad idea to jerk the wheel and make a turn without slowing down first.

So if you've got a Jeep that likes to get unsettled when turning at 40mph, the amount of power it has is a moot point. 

Thanks for filling me in on what my knowledge of physics is, though, with absolutely zero data to back up your suspicion.


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Gear_Cruncher said:


> Not really. SUVs have a hard enough time not rolling over when they get out of shape at normal highway speeds.
> 
> 707 HP=speed. Speed = much greater instability especially with a high center of gravity and huge tires.



Case in point, if the thing rolls at a given speed, the HP figure is a moot point. 

40mph roll is gonna happen if you've got a little HP or a lot of it.


----------



## Turbo II (Jun 9, 2017)

thegave said:


> What happened to the TCLer who had an F40 and then had an accident with it?


Wait, what? We had someone on here with an F40? That's cool, not the accident part though... Is there a topic or something about it?

I miss Ryukein too.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Air and water do mix said:


> We're no longer talking about 1982 Ford Broncos here. Modern SUVs still have higher centers of gravity, but they're not exactly unstable at normal highways speeds as you were strongly implying.


To be fair, there are hardly any of those types of SUVs left anymore (tall profile, tall-sidewall tires, soft, long-travel suspension for good off-road performance). In the past there were prominently placed placards on the dash, doors and/or sun visors of every Trooper, 4Runner, Montero, etc. warning that abrupt maneuvers could result in a rollover.

Lexus had to update the stability control on the GX because throwing it into a hard turn at 60 MPH could result in the rear end stepping out. I know this, you know this, but someone upgrading from an RX might not, because it's not beat into our heads anymore. I mean, I rented a Prado in Belize and could immediately tell it was very capable but also very soft. I had to make one or two evasive maneuvers while I had it for a week and basically you just drive it like a 15-passenger Ford Econoline E350. You can do a quick swerve to the side, like if a dog comes out of the woods -- but let it settle and straighten out before you cut back into your lane so the suspension doesn't pogo stick it over onto its side.


----------



## KizashiAGP (Jun 29, 2016)

*Not something I'm afraid to ask, but never remembered to ask...*

Stock front sway bar (eventually will upgrade) + Coilovers (1" drop on all 4 corners..._used to be 2" in the front and 1.8" rear for about a month or two_) = My front end links keep going to hell (failing). 

I literally haven't check this since I installed my H&Rs back in June, but I have to see if the end links align properly with the sway bar hole when the car is level and under it's own weight. Anyway, my question is at what point do I look at getting longer, shorter, sticking with OEM length or straight up adjustable end links at this ride height? What about if I install a aftermarket front sway bar?


----------



## KizashiAGP (Jun 29, 2016)

Surf Green said:


> Yep.
> 
> And for most speed bumps, I slow prior to them, and then go over them under power, so I transfer weight to the rear of the car, so it doesn't teeter-totter.


*+1*. :thumbup: Especially after I lowered my 3, this is what I found works best (was also instinctual) over bumps on my daily commute on bridges and freeways that are unavoidable. My suspension has been happy with it.


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## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

Air and water do mix said:


> We're no longer talking about 1982 Ford Broncos here. Modern SUVs still have higher centers of gravity, but they're not exactly unstable at normal highways speeds as you were strongly implying. Also, HP does _not_ equal speed. Application of that hp=acceleration, then speed, but it's not a given. I drive my 50 horse car and keep up with traffic just fine, but if HP equalled speed they'd all run away and hide from me. Every. Last. One. It still comes down to the driver.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


700+ horsepower usually equals greater than normal highway speeds and that is the point.

A direct by-product of quick acceleration is speed and by golly, 700+ is a good way to do it. The stability of a car goes down as the speed increases, especially in the hands of an un-trained driver in the seat. Any SUV is at more risk to get out of shape with that much power, even a modern SUV. Sorry, I can't re write the laws of physics. It's a dumb platform for that much horsepower, but it's all about making money, not about common sense. :facepalm:


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

Gear_Cruncher said:


> 700+ horsepower usually equals greater than normal highway speeds and that is the point.
> 
> A direct by-product of quick acceleration is speed and by golly, 700+ is a good way to do it. The stability of a car goes down as the speed increases, especially in the hands of an un-trained driver in the seat. Any SUV is at more risk to get out of shape with that much power, even a modern SUV. Sorry, I can't re write the laws of physics. It's a dumb platform for that much horsepower, but it's all about making money, not about common sense. :facepalm:


So where’s the cutoff? 300? 500? 600? 

If you take your argument further then I t’s really a dumb engine for a road car _period_, because you can’t legally go faster than my 50 hp Bug will go, but this isn’t about that. 

How are you going to stop them from making a 700 hp SUV? What about Lamborghini? They have something similar. Is that one dumb too or is this just because Chrysler? Ferrari is coming out with one, how about them?

Also, hp does _not_ equate to speed. Thats on the driver exclusively.


----------



## fastinradford (Aug 3, 2010)

Air and water do mix said:


> So where’s the cutoff? 300? 500? 600?
> 
> If you take your argument further then I t’s really a dumb engine for a road car _period_, because you can’t legally go faster than my 50 hp Bug will go, but this isn’t about that.
> 
> ...


I think what they mean is POTENTIAL for speed.

Your bug cannot go 190MPH

If you go 190mph in a grand cherokee may god help you.

violence doesnt come from a hammer, but it sure makes a hell of a lot more damage then your fist, this is handing some an uzi and saying dont worry guns dont kill people


----------



## Giovanni (May 13, 2000)

how rare is a two door mk7 gti? I see them around once in a while


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Giovanni said:


> how rare is a two door mk7 gti? I see them around once in a while


I wouldn't say super rare right now, but they only made them for 2015 (stock and special orders) and 2016 (special order only). I think 17 may have been a special order yea rtoo, but I'm not sure. None available here in the US with the 18 update.


----------



## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

How can you tell the difference between HID Halogen headlights and Xenon lights by looking at the headlights themselves? For example many cars have projector lights like the current Subaru Outback, but without knowing they weren't Xenon, how could you tell? 










Another would be the W204 C-class, which when it was released all models had HID halogen headlights:










The refreshed version went to regular halogen reflectors standard, and Xenon headlights as the upgrade: 


















Thank you.


----------



## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

DonPatrizio said:


> How can you tell the difference between HID Halogen headlights and Xenon lights by looking at the headlights themselves? For example many cars have projector lights like the current Subaru Outback, but without knowing they weren't Xenon, how could you tell?
> 
> Thank you.


Well, that's easy - the former ("HID halogen") doesn't exist, the latter does.  
HID = *H*igh *I*ntensity *D*ischarge. In other words, Xenon. I think that you were calling a projector halogen an "HID halogen"? 

Most carmakers are proud enough of them to put verbiage somewhere on the light, visible from the outside (e.g. "BMW Xenon".) Lacking that, lights usually have, somewhere on the housing, the bulb types that go in it (or, maybe that's just a German thing?)


----------



## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

cuppie said:


> Well, that's easy - the former ("HID halogen") doesn't exist, the latter does.
> HID = *H*igh *I*ntensity *D*ischarge. In other words, Xenon. I think that you were calling a projector halogen an "HID halogen"?
> 
> Most carmakers are proud enough of them to put verbiage somewhere on the light, visible from the outside (e.g. "BMW Xenon".) Lacking that, lights usually have, somewhere on the housing, the bulb types that go in it (or, maybe that's just a German thing?)


Oh okay thanks. I didn't know that wasn't the proper term. I thought HID meant projector style. My father's ES300 had dual halogen projectors:










So I guess you would just have to "know" whether or not the car has Xenon projectors aside from if it's written somewhere on the headlight. :thumbup: :beer:


----------



## Giovanni (May 13, 2000)

If the oil smells like gas, and it is burning oil too, that means the rings are shot and there is compression loss?

still pulls strong though with the puffs of white smoke


----------



## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

Giovanni said:


> If the oil smells like gas, and it is burning oil too, that means the rings are shot and there is compression loss?
> 
> still pulls strong though with the puffs of white smoke


sounds more like a headgasket if its white smoke.


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## KizashiAGP (Jun 29, 2016)

DonPatrizio said:


> Oh okay thanks. I didn't know that wasn't the proper term. I thought HID meant projector style. My father's ES300 had dual halogen projectors:
> 
> So I guess you would just have to "know" whether or not the car has Xenon projectors aside from if it's written somewhere on the headlight. :thumbup: :beer:


I'm wondering if your question is actually about models that have glass domes (projectors?) over the bulb whether it's HID or Halogen?

For example...








Some Mazda3 have halogen bulbs, while some have HID bulbs, but both headlights are assembled like this. 

Another way is to look for a harness behind the headlight itself. HID equipped vehicles will be set up differently than halogen. And looking at the bulb itself. Another example. An HID first gen Mazda3 will have a D2S low beam *iirc* which looks something like this...








While a halogen first gen Mazda3 will have an H7 low beam which looks something like this...


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## Giovanni (May 13, 2000)

cockerpunk said:


> sounds more like a headgasket if its white smoke.


Not THAT much white smoke. Just a puff when I step on it. It always needs oil too. I hear about FSI "issues" but don't know what they are. These motors are know for burning oil?


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## Shmi (Mar 25, 2009)

Giovanni said:


> Not THAT much white smoke. Just a puff when I step on it. It always needs oil too. I hear about FSI "issues" but don't know what they are. These motors are know for burning oil?


Some of the 2-liters with shot pistons were burning like a quart every 500 miles. If you're around there then yeah, probably.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

Swaybars. Which way do you think is right?

Under the tierod.









Over the tierod.









Every single photo and diagram I've seen (including official Subaru diagrams) has the bar going *under* the tierod, and hitting the end links at a horrible angle.
I tried mounting the bar the other way, and jacked the car through the suspension range, and aside from it barely touching at full extension and at full steering lock, there's no interference.

Am I an idiot for wanting to try it out mounted other way?


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## Silly_me (Jul 26, 1999)

Surf Green said:


> Every single photo and diagram I've seen (including official Subaru diagrams) has the bar going *under* the tierod, and hitting the end links at a horrible angle.


Family member has a new Impreza and hit something in a gravel parking area and bent theirs. Now I know why :laugh:



Surf Green said:


> Am I an idiot for wanting to try it out mounted other way?


I only play an automotive engineer on the Vortex, but given how easily that one got bent I'd say you are not being an idiot


----------



## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

How do I get an aftermarket radio to actually dim? Sure, you connect the orange "dimmmer" wires, but it never actually works.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

VR6JH said:


> How do I get an aftermarket radio to actually dim? Sure, you connect the orange "dimmmer" wires, but it never actually works.


In my expirence, most of them just turn down the lighting to a preset level when they get a dimmer signal. There's no gradiated adjustment that I've seen on most (all?).


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## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

KizashiAGP said:


> I'm wondering if your question is actually about models that have glass domes (projectors?) over the bulb whether it's HID or Halogen?
> 
> For example...
> 
> ...


I think that's what we are talking about now. You can have halogen lights in projectors, but they aren't necessarily HID (Xenon). The new Mazda6 has projectors too. Not Xenons:


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## KizashiAGP (Jun 29, 2016)

DonPatrizio said:


> The new Mazda6 has projectors too. Not Xenons: /pic]


This is one of the main things that turned me on to the 3 and 6 when they came out. :thumbup:


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

VR6JH said:


> How do I get an aftermarket radio to actually dim? Sure, you connect the orange "dimmmer" wires, but it never actually works.


A lot of modern (post 2004) dim the radios with data, not a 12v signal like old cars. You may be able to find a 12v parking light/headlight lead under the dash, but some cars have all the relays for the lights in the engine bay, and may have data or ground triggering them. A lot of aftermarket modules will have a dimmer wire that works.


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## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

Air and water do mix said:


> So where’s the cutoff? 300? 500? 600?
> 
> If you take your argument further then I t’s really a dumb engine for a road car _period_, because you can’t legally go faster than my 50 hp Bug will go, but this isn’t about that.
> 
> ...


 Can we start with 250 hp at 3 mph and go from there?


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

Surf Green said:


> Swaybars. Which way do you think is right?
> 
> Every single photo and diagram I've seen (including official Subaru diagrams) has the bar going *under* the tierod, and hitting the end links at a horrible angle.
> I tried mounting the bar the other way, and jacked the car through the suspension range, and aside from it barely touching at full extension and at full steering lock, there's no interference.
> ...


So it touches at the extremes? Well, I'd say that's not the way to mount it then. 

With sway bars, there's no such thing as "horrible angle." The rate of the bar is primarily determined by the thickness of the bar and the length of the pivot points, with some maths involved to figure out the excessive material when it's not a 90-degree bar. But that's pretty minimal to the overall rate.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

Gear_Cruncher said:


> Can we start with 250 hp at 3 mph and go from there?


Ha! That’s pretty funny. :laugh:

That is as much an effect of crawling up the side of the BMW than anything else. 


I’m not def hp SUVs as much as I’m asking “how do you stop companies from building them? Is there a height restriction/hp ratio? Do you limit the hp of any SUV? No superchargers if it has AWD and is shaped like a box? I just love the thought of congressional idiots trying to sort this one out. What’s next, seat belts on motorcycles?


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

GreenandChrome said:


> With sway bars, there's no such thing as "horrible angle."


Sure there is. Refer to the photo to see that angle that the swaybar end meets the endlink.
It was so extreme that I needed a punch and hammer to get the through-bolt in/out, and when tightened, the endlink bushing was squashed well beyond its design intent.

The solution ended up being heating and bending the swaybar tabs so that they met the endlinks at a more parallel angle. 

Backstory. 
The PO installed a heavy aftermarket front bar that made the car nice and responsive, but understeer like hell, and pull up the inner front tire under acceleration.
After installing coilovers, I decided to put the stock bar (that came with the car) back on to allow a bit of weight transfer in the front and reduce tire lift. So I had never seen this bar on the car, and its entirely possible that this bar wasn't original to it. 06-07 WRX Wagons have completely different front control arms, end links and swaybars from sedans. Sedans use swivel endlinks, which allow misalignment instead of the dogbone links i have.


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

Surf Green said:


> Sure there is. Refer to the photo to see that angle that the swaybar end meets the endlink.
> It was so extreme that I needed a punch and hammer to get the through-bolt in/out, and when tightened, the endlink bushing was squashed well beyond its design intent.
> 
> The solution ended up being heating and bending the swaybar tabs so that they met the endlinks at a more parallel angle.
> ...


perhaps you needed these dogbones:


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

GreenandChrome said:


> perhaps you needed these dogbones:


Describe to me how those would mount to my control arms.


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

Surf Green said:


> Describe to me how those would mount to my control arms.


have no idea; i don't own a Subaru. those popped up in a search.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

GreenandChrome said:


> have no idea; i don't own a Subaru. those popped up in a search.


That's why it would have helped if you had read what I wrote.... or at the very least, looked at the photo. It's pretty obvious that those won't fit.


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

KizashiAGP said:


> I'm wondering if your question is actually about models that have glass domes (projectors?) over the bulb whether it's HID or Halogen?


For our Soul its very obvious:

Halogen (note mirrored scattercone and the large center bulb)









HID (note painted housing and dark center lens)


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## KizashiAGP (Jun 29, 2016)

l88m22vette said:


> For our Soul its very obvious:
> 
> Halogen (note mirrored scattercone and the large center bulb)
> 
> HID (note painted housing and dark center lens)


Well, right, because the halogen doesn't have projectors. The OP was asking about (correct me if i'm wrong, dude) cars with projectors across the whole model line, but some may have halogen bulbs and some may have HID.


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

Surf Green said:


> Swaybars. Which way do you think is right?
> 
> Under the tierod.
> 
> ...


From my experience likely OVER is the correct assembly.


----------



## JB#3709 (Apr 2, 2007)

Dumb question can a engine run hot because the coolant is old? asking for a friend


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

JB#3709 said:


> Dumb question can a engine run hot because the coolant is old? asking for a friend


Likely not unless the old coolant has caused other problems such as clogged/scaled passages in the radiator or some such. 

The water in the 50/50 mix is what moves the heat from the engine to the radiator and dissipates it whereas the coolant acts as antifreeze/anti boil, anti rust and lubricant.


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Anything seriously dangerously wrong routing a standard 3-point belt like this through the seat?


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

thegave said:


> Anything seriously dangerously wrong routing a standard 3-point belt like this through the seat?


Well it's designed to go over the shoulder to help keep you in place in case of sudden change in direction.

I guess the concern there would be how much force would be exerted on the neck in the event of an accident, due to the proximity, instead of over the shoulder and across the chest.


I'm no engineer, but I think this is one of those "use as directed" things worth paying attention to. Or not, you know , whatever.


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

It does go over my shoulder in this position. Routed around the side of the seat, it chafes against my neck because the way the seatback "wing" is shaped makes the belt slide up.


----------



## burnthesheep (May 4, 2012)

What's the slowest acceptable 1/8mi dragstrip time? I swear I ran against an aircooled in a bracket race once that ran an 18.

Like, how slow can you be before they won't let you run or kick you out, ignoring laughs.


----------



## Cr4shT3st (Jan 23, 2009)

Does unopened, sealed DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid go bad? What about opened (clean, and closed can) fluid?


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

Cr4shT3st said:


> Does unopened, sealed DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid go bad? What about opened (clean, and closed can) fluid?


Unopened, probably not; but it might have a shelf life.

Opened brake fluid? Good for maybe a couple weeks, but that's it.

When we flushed the brakes in the racecar, we'd use just over one full bottle, and then keep the second one to top it off for the next few weeks. We threw out a lot of brake fluid.


----------



## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

I drive an automatic, its a 1998 legacy outback. 

The Ebrake doesn't work for ish..

When I park on even the slightest slope and put it in park it rolls a couple inches to a stop (maybe not that much even). I have never experienced this before but this is only my second car that is an auto... 

Is this normal or should I be worried ??? Maybe I should look into fixing the Ebrak right away ??


----------



## DerSpiegel (Jun 20, 2008)

skydive_007 said:


> I drive an automatic, its a 1998 legacy outback.
> 
> The Ebrake doesn't work for ish..
> 
> ...



Probably just needs an e-brake cable adjustment. Your local shop should be able to take care of that.


----------



## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

skydive_007 said:


> I drive an automatic, its a 1998 legacy outback.
> 
> The Ebrake doesn't work for ish..
> 
> ...


It's normal for automatics if you put it in park before setting the parking brake. If you shift to park and the parking pawl doesn't land directly in an indent, the car will roll a bit until the pawl drops in. 

I am neurotic about coming to a stop, keeping my foot on the brake, setting the parking brake, releasing the foot brake, then putting the car in park. I hate the lurch after shifting into park and the shudder you get and extra effort required when shifting out of park.

Millions of people never use the parking brake, so it's probably okay for the time being, but I would definitely have the parking brake fixed/adjusted (could be stretched cables or bent mounting brackets) because, as you can see, there's not much there holding the weight of the car.


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

OK, thanks fellas , I was actually really worried :laugh:

I'll adjust the ebrake and go back to using it as I always have :thumbup:


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

Is there any difference in wear between (relatively) soft and hard braking.
Say you are cruising at 40mph approaching a stop sign 500ft away. Will braking at 100ft over 300ft from the same 40mph - 0 increase wear on parts?
I mean, is it the same since you're scrubbing off the same speed...?

Sent from my GT-I9507 using Tapatalk


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

drecian said:


> Is there any difference in wear between (relatively) soft and hard braking.
> Say you are cruising at 40mph approaching a stop sign 500ft away. Will braking at 100ft over 300ft from the same 40mph - 0 increase wear on parts?
> I mean, is it the same since you're scrubbing off the same speed...?


I would say (by using the SWAG method*) that there has to be at least _some_ difference, as harder braking is getting rid of the same amount of heat but over a shorter period of time and the components cannot dump the heat as fast as you can generate it. Whether that's a negligible amount or an order of magnitude I can't say, but it's probably closer to a negligible amount. 


Can anyone confirm/deny?



*_Scientific_ wild-assed guess


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Coefficient of drag decreases with the introduction of heat. Brakes work better and last longer wirhout it, so easy braking is better than hard braking.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Air and water do mix said:


> I would say (by using the SWAG method*) that there has to be at least _some_ difference, as harder braking is getting rid of the same amount of heat but over a shorter period of time and the components cannot dump the heat as fast as you can generate it. Whether that's a negligible amount or an order of magnitude I can't say, but it's probably closer to a negligible amount.
> 
> Can anyone confirm/deny?
> 
> *_Scientific_ wild-assed guess


That is what I'm thinking. The brakes will be at about the same temperature after a single stop, maybe a little cooler with a softer stop that takes longer as there's more airflow to help cool the rotor over time, more air resistance to slow the car and more mechanical drag/friction helping to slow it down as well. I'm thinking that the tires are probably the components that would be subjected to the most amount of additional wear with harder braking because they scratch/scrabble/dig in for additional traction instead of just rolling along. Maybe a little more wear on the suspension components if they compress and rebound with a hard stop, too.

The other thing is that some vehicles have are proportioning valves and other mechanisms that vary braking power depending on the deceleration needed - so you might cause the rear brakes to be deployed more fully with harder braking when they would normally just drag a little. I'm not a heavy braker (it's easy on a 2300 lb car with a stick) and every time I've touched the rear drums on my car they are barely even warm, even after getting stuck in heavy traffic.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

adrew said:


> That is what I'm thinking. The brakes will be at about the same temperature after a single stop, maybe a little cooler with a softer stop that takes longer as there's more airflow to help cool the rotor over time, more air resistance to slow the car and more mechanical drag/friction helping to slow it down as well. I'm thinking that the tires are probably the components that would be subjected to the most amount of additional wear with harder braking because they scratch/scrabble/dig in for additional traction instead of just rolling along. Maybe a little more wear on the suspension components if they compress and rebound with a hard stop, too.
> 
> The other thing is that some vehicles have are proportioning valves and other mechanisms that vary braking power depending on the deceleration needed - so you might cause the rear brakes to be deployed more fully with harder braking when they would normally just drag a little. I'm not a heavy braker (it's easy on a 2300 lb car with a stick) and every time I've touched the rear drums on my car they are barely even warm, even after getting stuck in heavy traffic.


Proportioning valves don’t vary the pressure front to rear. They provide a constant, not a variable. Front/rear bias is more a function of the size of the pistons, thus their strength.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

barry2952 said:


> Proportioning valves don’t vary the pressure front to rear. They provide a constant, not a variable. Front/rear bias is more a function of the size of the pistons, thus their strength.


Sorry, not enough coffee yet. I meant to say that many modern cars use electronic brake distribution (kind of a digital proportioning valve), which in some cars sends a lot more braking power to the rear than usual. On a few generations of Honda Accords it can cause the rear brakes to wear at 2x-3x the rate of the fronts since the smaller brakes are used more heavily, especially if the driver is a late braker.

http://www.hondaproblems.com/trends/accord-brake-wear/


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## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

adrew said:


> Sorry, not enough coffee yet. I meant to say that many modern cars use electronic brake distribution (kind of a digital proportioning valve), which in some cars sends a lot more braking power to the rear than usual. On a few generations of Honda Accords it can cause the rear brakes to wear at 2x-3x the rate of the fronts since the smaller brakes are used more heavily, especially if the driver is a late braker.
> 
> http://www.hondaproblems.com/trends/accord-brake-wear/


doesn't have to do with late braking, harder braking actually means the computer will send more brake to the front, because of the weight transfer on the nose under braking. it unloads the rear and thus less rear brake can be used. 

the reason why rear pads wear out on modern electronic braking, is freeway brake tappers. light applications of brake while at speed are usually programmed as rear-only braking events. when someone complains in a modern car of wearing out rear pads, they are a free way brake tapper, every time.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

cockerpunk said:


> doesn't have to do with late braking, harder braking actually means the computer will send more brake to the front, because of the weight transfer on the nose under braking. it unloads the rear and thus less rear brake can be used.
> 
> the reason why rear pads wear out on modern electronic braking, is freeway brake tappers. light applications of brake while at speed are usually programmed as rear-only braking events. when someone complains in a modern car of wearing out rear pads, they are a free way brake tapper, every time.


Ah, that makes sense. I am not that type of driver (never have to do brakes before 100k) so hearing about the cause/effect is interesting.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

barry2952 said:


> Proportioning valves don’t vary the pressure front to rear. They provide a constant, not a variable. Front/rear bias is more a function of the size of the pistons, thus their strength.


I know he wasn't right in that exact situation, but variable proportioning valves are very familiar, at least to VW owners, not sure about other brands  









Varies the rear brake bias under nose diving (to prevent rear lockup). Kind of an old mechanical version of brake distribution.


----------



## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

is there a difference between biturbo and twin turbo, or is one just mercedes' marketing name?


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## Baltimoron (Oct 10, 2001)

Biturbo uses two same sized turbos usually located on the outside of each bank of a vee motor > B5 S4, C5 RS6, MB V12TT,

Twin turbo is kind of the same thing but usually on sequential setups, inline motors, or vee motors when the turbos are located in the valley of the vee between the cylinder heads > Mk4 Supra, FD RX7, BMW N54, lots of diesels


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## AHTOXA (Dec 2, 2007)

Baltimoron said:


> Biturbo uses two same sized turbos usually located on the outside of each bank of a vee motor > B5 S4, C5 RS6, MB V12TT,
> 
> Twin turbo is kind of the same thing but usually on sequential setups, inline motors, or vee motors when the turbos are located in the valley of the vee between the cylinder heads > Mk4 Supra, FD RX7, BMW N54, lots of diesels


I think these days they are used interchangeably with twin turbo being the catch-all term. 

Using your example the Ford Ecoboost would be a biturbo but it's always referred to as twin turbo.


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

Dravenport said:


> is there a difference between biturbo and twin turbo, or is one just mercedes' marketing name?


 Not just MB - Maserati (for one) has used it, too. Bi = "two."



Baltimoron said:


> Biturbo uses two same sized turbos usually located on the outside of each bank of a vee motor > B5 S4, C5 RS6, MB V12TT,
> 
> Twin turbo is kind of the same thing but usually on sequential setups, inline motors, or vee motors when the turbos are located in the valley of the vee between the cylinder heads > Mk4 Supra, FD RX7, BMW N54, lots of diesels


 N54 is a parallel twin-turbo setup. Each turbo is spun by 3 cylinders; both feed into a common intake tract. Nothing sequential about it. 
M57 diesel, though, is a series-parallel sequential setup.


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

barry2952 said:


> Proportioning valves don’t vary the pressure front to rear. They provide a constant, not a variable. Front/rear bias is more a function of the size of the pistons, thus their strength.


And since most cars (I'm assuming from basic auto knowledge) only have one brake master cylinder, there really isn't a solid method of adjusting bias, outside of making the rears smaller, thus less braking force. 

In racing, we have a front and rear. The front is a smaller master cylinder (7/8") than the rear (1") to improve pressure. Bias is done by cranking a rod that applies different rates of pressure (throw, specifically) on each cylinder. Front brakes calipers are usually bigger; 6-pistons. Rears are 4 pistons. Most cost-priority racers run the same size rotors on all 4 corners, makes it easier for maintenance. But a lot run a smaller, wavy rear rotor for weight. 

With all of the mechanical stuff taken care of, we set the braking balance by a very scientific method. By hand. Two guys spin the tires while the brakes are applied slowly. Then they switch places. Usually we ran about a 60f/40r split. Later we started adding more rear brake to assist corner entry.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

GreenandChrome said:


> And since most cars (I'm assuming from basic auto knowledge) only have one brake master cylinder, there really isn't a solid method of adjusting bias, outside of making the rears smaller, thus less braking force.
> 
> In racing, we have a front and rear. The front is a smaller master cylinder (7/8") than the rear (1") to improve pressure. Bias is done by cranking a rod that applies different rates of pressure (throw, specifically) on each cylinder. Front brakes calipers are usually bigger; 6-pistons. Rears are 4 pistons. Most cost-priority racers run the same size rotors on all 4 corners, makes it easier for maintenance. But a lot run a smaller, wavy rear rotor for weight.
> 
> With all of the mechanical stuff taken care of, we set the braking balance by a very scientific method. By hand. Two guys spin the tires while the brakes are applied slowly. Then they switch places. Usually we ran about a 60f/40r split. Later we started adding more rear brake to assist corner entry.


Up until the ‘60s most cars had single circuit master cylinders and real emergency brakes that activate the full set of large rear shoes. A modern car has a dual circuit master cylinder and a parking brake using tiny brake shoes.


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## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

cuppie said:


> Not just MB - Maserati (for one) has used it, too. Bi = "two."


so does twin dude, thats why i asked if there was a difference


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

Dravenport said:


> so does twin dude, thats why i asked if there was a difference


 I should have been more verbose. My bad.  

There's no inherent difference - it's just marketingese. 

The name (BiTurbo, twin turbo, TwinPower Turbo (BMW), whatever) says nothing about the technical aspects of the setup.


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## dirtyfingers (Apr 29, 2007)

With a car like a Toyota Yaris IA or Mitsubishi Mirage that has a VERY limited number of tire options due to sizing; I've heard that you can mess with the numbers just a hair to get more options.

That said, if someone were to go this route and get into an accident, how likely is it someone can sue you and say you are not using the proper size tires?


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

cockerpunk said:


> doesn't have to do with late braking, harder braking actually means the computer will send more brake to the front, because of the weight transfer on the nose under braking. it unloads the rear and thus less rear brake can be used.
> 
> the reason why rear pads wear out on modern electronic braking, is freeway brake tappers. light applications of brake while at speed are usually programmed as rear-only braking events. when someone complains in a modern car of wearing out rear pads, they are a free way brake tapper, every time.


 I'm fairly confident that's not true, never heard of such a thing. 
What is the engineering purpose of rear only brake application? generally curious.

There are a lot of different reasons why rear brakes could wear faster than front by design.

- The rear friction compound is typically different than the front. Because the energy of the rear is much less than the front for marketability against noise it may be a more forgiving compound which usually have higher wear rates.

- Most multi passenger cars are designed for 2 people + luggage, known as light loaded weight. This is typically the curb + light load the vehicle is design for in terms of brake bias in addition to the gross max vehicle weight. If you drive around with just yourself majority of the time, the rear brakes will be overly aggressive.

- From the construction between FR and RR caliper, because the RR caliper is smaller, having lighter pistons under the onset of pressure the rear caliper will begin to clamp a hair before the front (it has a quicker response). This will cause slight drag until the front caliper can clamp so the system can generate pressure.

- rear pads are usually thinner than front pads by 1-3mm typically.

- ... other detailed items I'd rather not explain.


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

dirtyfingers said:


> With a car like a Toyota Yaris IA or Mitsubishi Mirage that has a VERY limited number of tire options due to sizing; I've heard that you can mess with the numbers just a hair to get more options.
> 
> That said, if someone were to go this route and get into an accident, how likely is it someone can sue you and say you are not using the proper size tires?


IMO that would be no different to fittinf aftermarket wheels that are not a factory size (and therefore not factory size tires).

I'd imagine it would have to do more with your local vehicle standards laws as to what's legal and what's not.

For example; the tire laws here are:
-rolling diameter no more than +/-15mm from stock
-track increase no more than 25mm
-not any narrower than OEM (wider is OK)
-typical tread depth laws
Any tires within those laws will still be legal.

If it's legal, there's not really any issues, and I can't see anyone successfully suing over a legal and roadworthy car (not legal advice...).



Sent from my GT-I9507 using Tapatalk


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

Aside from (shudder) wheel spacers, is there any real way to widen a track of a car?

Let's assume a standard truck. Rear would need presumably a wider rear end / axles and it would be sufficient. For the front, I assume longer A-Arms?


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## Turbo II (Jun 9, 2017)

TooFitToQuit said:


> Aside from (shudder) wheel spacers, is there any real way to widen a track of a car?
> 
> Let's assume a standard truck. Rear would need presumably a wider rear end / axles and it would be sufficient. For the front, I assume longer A-Arms?


I'm not competent enough in widening tracks on trucks, but swapping in duallies?


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

TooFitToQuit said:


> Aside from (shudder) wheel spacers, is there any real way to widen a track of a car?
> 
> Let's assume a standard truck. Rear would need presumably a wider rear end / axles and it would be sufficient. For the front, I assume longer A-Arms?


Depends a lot on the car itself, and what kind of suspension. The front would be the biggest challenge due to steering.
Longer A-Arms would work, but only if there was enough adjustabilty in the strut to maintain proper camber.

There may be properly (or not properly) engineered options in the aftermarket, but if not, it seems like a big can of worms if you want to be the first down such a path.

That's why most people use spacers or wheel offsets (preferred), and just accept the extra wear on bearings and the change in steering geometry.


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

Surf Green said:


> Depends a lot on the car itself, and what kind of suspension. The front would be the biggest challenge due to steering.
> Longer A-Arms would work, but only if there was enough adjustabilty in the strut to maintain proper camber.
> 
> There may be properly (or not properly) engineered options in the aftermarket, but if not, it seems like a big can of worms if you want to be the first down such a path.
> ...


:beer::beer:


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

TooFitToQuit said:


> Aside from (shudder) wheel spacers, is there any real way to widen a track of a car?
> 
> Let's assume a standard truck. Rear would need presumably a wider rear end / axles and it would be sufficient. For the front, I assume longer A-Arms?


Unless you’re an engineer and a master fabricator the easiest way to widen a track of a car is to use wheels with a shallower backseat. An 8” wide rim typically had a 4” backset. A rim with a 2” backset would give you a 4” wider track.


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

barry2952 said:


> Unless you’re an engineer and a master fabricator the easiest way to widen a track of a car is to use wheels with a shallower backseat. An 8” wide rim typically had a 4” backset. A rim with a 2” backset would give you a 4” wider track.


In this instance, the specific wheel is offered only in one offset, so that isn't an option unfortunately.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

dirtyfingers said:


> With a car like a Toyota Yaris IA or Mitsubishi Mirage that has a VERY limited number of tire options due to sizing; I've heard that you can mess with the numbers just a hair to get more options.
> 
> That said, if someone were to go this route and get into an accident, how likely is it someone can sue you and say you are not using the proper size tires?


I doubt there would have an issue if you did a plus-zero to a slightly larger size which would presumably have more grip, unless the sizing was way off with a tire too wide for the wheel, or a narrow stretched onto a too-wide wheel, that kind of thing.

We did the closest thing to a plus zero on our Mirage since, like you said, there was nothing available in its OEM size of 165/65-14. I put some 175/65-14 Michelin Defenders on it -- MPG dropped by 3-4 compared to the rock-hard Dunlop Enasaves it came with but it was nice being able to stop and turn when it was raining - all capabilities were greatly enhanced.

I did have to initial a liability thing one time at Costco when I put some H-rated tires on my old Civic before giving it to my mom (it spec'd an old little V-rated 195/60-15 - I usually ran 205/55-15s on it).


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

TooFitToQuit said:


> Aside from (shudder) wheel spacers, is there any real way to widen a track of a car?
> 
> Let's assume a standard truck. Rear would need presumably a wider rear end / axles and it would be sufficient. For the front, I assume longer A-Arms?


What's wrong with spacers? How much are we talking? 1/2"? 1"? In racing we would run 1"-1.5" on the LR sometimes, and 1/8"-1/2" on the rights. The only thing it would really affect is the scrub radius.

To widen the trackwidth, it would require:

Wide rear end & axles
Re-installing stock mounts for trailing arms and suspension (if not leaf spring)
Longer lower and upper A-arms
Probably longer steering arms
Remount sway bar(s)

There might be other options out there, like offset spindles/hubs. Those would be a lot cheaper alternative.


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

GreenandChrome said:


> How much are we talking? 1/2"? 1"?


4". :laugh:


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

TooFitToQuit said:


> 4". :laugh:


yeah, it won't be cheap.


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

GreenandChrome said:


> yeah, it won't be cheap.


Just a change of plans for the design. NBD!


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## Egz (May 30, 2002)

I walked by a Cherokee the other day, and saw that it had a heated windshield, with hash marks in each corner.










I assume this is to melt ice under the wiper so it isn't frozen to the windshield. But the driver wiper doesn't park anywhere near the heating element.










So, does it just melt ice in the corner?


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## Aseras (Dec 2, 2010)

Ever notice how every car now runs the AC no matter what when it is set to defrost? Yes it dries the air more, but it also causes condensation on the windshield along the front vents. That strip counteracts that condensation.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Aseras said:


> Ever notice how every car now runs the AC no matter what when it is set to defrost? Yes it dries the air more, but it also causes condensation on the windshield along the front vents. That strip counteracts that condensation.


Some days I don't want to get the evaporator wet (mine starts to stink if I don't let it dry out thoroughly) -- I wouldn't mind if the compressor came on by default if I could disable it. But on my car it will not allow it - I have found that if I set the vents halfway between floor and defrost that enough warm air will come out to keep the window fog-free.


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## Aseras (Dec 2, 2010)

I looked it up. On the Cherokee that's the cold weather package. It is a wiper deicer.


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## Aseras (Dec 2, 2010)

adrew said:


> Some days I don't want to get the evaporator wet (mine stinks if I don't let it dry out) so I would like the opportunity to disable the compressor. But on my car it will not allow it - I have found that if I put it halfway between floor and defrost that enough warm air will come out to keep the window fog free.


It's aggravating. There's ways to turn it off on some models, honda and mazda by holding down the buttons.

If your evap coil is doing that you should try and give it a good cleaning. It's probably covered in crap and growing. I needed to clean my VW frequently due to dogs and dirt. The cabin filter was worthless.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

^ Maybe that extra bit in the corner is to melt the slush that gets swept over there.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Aseras said:


> It's aggravating. There's ways to turn it off on some models, honda and mazda by holding down the buttons.
> 
> If your evap coil is doing that you should try and give it a good cleaning. It's probably covered in crap and growing. I needed to clean my VW frequently due to dogs and dirt. The cabin filter was worthless.


On our Corolla you can set it so that you have to press the A/C button before the compressor comes on in auto mode (otherwise it is pretty much always running if you use auto climate) which is kind of cool because it will ramp the fan and temperature up/down on its own on cool/mild days -- but the compressor still comes on with the defrost.  On my Yaris, in defrost mode, the A/C button lights up even when it is not depressed, and you can't toggle it off.

I keep the filter and detritus clean - ever car I've had here in Texas gets rank if you park it all day in a 110° parking lot with a damp A/C box. I just turn the compressor off and blast the fan for a few minutes toward the end of my drive, but sometimes I don't want to do that on a quick trip.


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

Would a car without fenders shoot "rooster tails"? I assume for open wheel race cars they have good 'adhesion' of water to the slick/treads which helps the spray.


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## Aseras (Dec 2, 2010)

adrew said:


> On our Corolla you can set it so that you have to press the A/C button before the compressor comes on in auto mode (otherwise it is pretty much always running if you use auto climate) which is kind of cool because it will ramp the fan and temperature up/down on its own on cool/mild days -- but the compressor still comes on with the defrost. On my Yaris, in defrost mode, the A/C button lights up even when it is not depressed, and you can't toggle it off.
> 
> I keep the filter and detritus clean - ever car I've had here in Texas gets rank if you park it all day in a 110° parking lot with a damp A/C box. I just turn the compressor off and blast the fan for a few minutes toward the end of my drive, but sometimes I don't want to do that on a quick trip.


http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10888 ?


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## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

why do people risk damage by rolling their fenders instead of buying wheels that fit?


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## NeverEnoughCars (Aug 2, 2013)

Dravenport said:


> why do people risk damage by rolling their fenders instead of buying wheels that fit?


Sometimes there are not really any wheel that will fit. I had to cut and roll on my MKIII running BBS RAs in 15". 
It was fine as long as I didn't need to turn the wheel much or put anything more in the hatch or have passengers in the rear seats or hit a little dip in the road...
Such is the static life. :laugh:


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## D_B_Jetta (Apr 27, 2006)

Dravenport said:


> why do people risk damage by rolling their fenders instead of buying wheels that fit?


On my old MK4 Jetta I wanted to run wide tires (245/40-17). The struts limit how far the wheels and tire can go 'in' without rubbing so I had to roll the inner fender to keep from cutting up the tire.
I did not 'stretch' the fenders out, the wheel/tire combo sat just at the edge of the fender.

The 18x8 Audi wheels on the GFs Rabbit are the same. Just the inner lip is rolled (folded) to clear the tires with a very slight pull outward of the lip.

Other people do it for looks.

:beer:
G


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

Aseras said:


> Ever notice how every car now runs the AC no matter what when it is set to defrost? Yes it dries the air more, but it also causes condensation on the windshield along the front vents. That strip counteracts that condensation.


It's does that on purpose, the AC blows dry air and works faster than without. Volvo's and other European cars have done this for decades.


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

A.Wilder said:


> It's does that on purpose, the AC blows dry air and works faster than without. Volvo's and other European cars have done this for decades.


my wife hates that the Audi does that, because it's always cold.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Aseras said:


> Yes it dries the air more, but it also causes condensation on the windshield along the front vents. That strip counteracts that condensation.


The condensation builds up on the outside, not the inside. The moisture wants to go to where the cold is, like the outside of a cold drink on a hot humid day. 



GreenandChrome said:


> my wife hates that the Audi does that, because it's always cold.


Turn up the temp. My SO thinks that whenever the AC is on it's cold- not if you put the heat on with it, then you get hot dry air


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

VDub2625 said:


> The condensation builds up on the outside, not the inside. The moisture wants to go to where the cold is, like the outside of a cold drink on a hot humid day.
> 
> 
> 
> Turn up the temp. My SO thinks that whenever the AC is on it's cold- not if you put the heat on with it, then you get hot dry air


but it's not *instant*.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Dravenport said:


> why do people risk damage by rolling their fenders instead of buying wheels that fit?



Why do people care what other people do to their cars?


It’s one of those things; to each their own I suppose.


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

TwoLitreVW said:


> Why do people care what other people do to their cars?
> 
> 
> It’s one of those things; to each their own I suppose.












Why? If you want to drive around, bouncing everywhere and going at a snail's pace, why don't you just buy a 1970s truck with a 6 cyl? it's a hell of a lot cheaper.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

GreenandChrome said:


> Why? If you want to drive around, bouncing everywhere and going at a snail's pace, why don't you just buy a 1970s truck with a 6 cyl? it's a hell of a lot cheaper.


I’m of the opinion it’s stupid.

But, I’m not the guy doing it.

So i don’t care. Nobody else should, either.


Also, he was asking about rolling fenders.

Not cambertard status. 

You can roll a fender to get a little bit of clearance and have wheels flush, or you can go full retard.

They’re not the same thing, though. That picture you posted, not rolled fenders.


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## Old Troublemaker (Mar 27, 2018)

A.Wilder said:


> It's does that on purpose, the AC blows dry air and works faster than without. Volvo's and other European cars have done this for decades.


American cars have also done this for decades. 

Read down to stilldriveem's reply:

http://www.city-data.com/forum/automotive/1680274-c-turns-when-defrost-selected.html


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## Old Troublemaker (Mar 27, 2018)

TwoLitreVW said:


> I’m of the opinion it’s stupid.
> 
> But, I’m not the guy doing it.
> 
> ...


Isn't a cambered car unsafe to drive? Unsafe for the driver and other drivers?

Or do they press a button and suddenly the suspension normalizes for driving?


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## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

NeverEnoughCars said:


> Sometimes there are not really any wheel that will fit.


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## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

TwoLitreVW said:


> Why do people care what other people do to their cars?
> 
> 
> It’s one of those things; to each their own I suppose.


oh I'm sorry, do you feel attacked? I was asking because I don't understand the thought process behind the practice.


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## NeverEnoughCars (Aug 2, 2013)

Dravenport said:


>


At the ride height I was at even stock wheels were rubbing on the fender lips. :laugh:


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## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

Dravenport said:


> oh I'm sorry, do you feel attacked? I was asking because I don't understand the thought process behind the practice.


Fender rolling is just like any of the other things that have been ruined by the "ricers". A bit of lowering and a bit of camber is truly beneficial for handling(gross generalization). But the cars that are cambered 45 degrees and can't drive over a leaf have ruined it for everyone.

There IS a proper place for fender rolling, and done the right way there is nothing wrong with it to fit/protect tires. The guys that bash them in with baseball bats ruin it, and make the practice seem stupid.


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## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

NeverEnoughCars said:


> At the ride height I was at even stock wheels were rubbing on the fender lips. :laugh:


so wheels did fit, you just decided to change your car so they wouldn't


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## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

VR6JH said:


> Fender rolling is just like any of the other things that have been ruined by the "ricers". A bit of lowering and a bit of camber is truly beneficial for handling(gross generalization). But the cars that are cambered 45 degrees and can't drive over a leaf have ruined it for everyone.
> 
> There IS a proper place for fender rolling, and done the right way there is nothing wrong with it to fit/protect tires. The guys that bash them in with baseball bats ruin it, and make the practice seem stupid.


I'm not judging the practice, I was simply asking what the point of it was


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Dravenport said:


> oh I'm sorry, do you feel attacked? I was asking because I don't understand the thought process behind the practice.


Not even a little bit. 

But it’s a purely subjective thing they do because it’s a trend.

Barely worth conversation.


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## NeverEnoughCars (Aug 2, 2013)

Dravenport said:


> so wheels did fit, you just decided to change your car so they wouldn't


Yes. 
100mm+ drop will do that rather quickly. :laugh:


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

Dravenport said:


> oh I'm sorry, do you feel attacked? I was asking because I don't understand the thought process behind the practice.


 Typically reasons to roll a fender.

1. Want/need to run a wider wheel 
2. Want/need to run a wider tire
3. Want the wheel to be hella flush/aggressive with the fender plane 
4. The vehicle is lowered 
5. Running the same wheel on all 4 corners sometimes requires modification
6. Specific wheel you want only comes in specific dimensions
7. The wheel you are running doesn't clear your brakes, requires a spacer


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## Old Troublemaker (Mar 27, 2018)

TwoLitreVW said:


> Not even a little bit.
> 
> But it’s a purely subjective thing they do because it’s a trend.
> 
> Barely worth conversation.


When the car becomes unsafe to drive for you or for other drivers on the same road it becomes very worthy of conversation. 

If the car is just driven on a private road or is trailered to car shows and never driven on the street, then sure - do whatever you want to it.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Old Troublemaker said:


> When the car becomes unsafe to drive for you or for other drivers on the same road it becomes very worthy of conversation.
> 
> If the car is just driven on a private road or is trailered to car shows and never driven on the street, then sure - do whatever you want to it.


Agreed.

And save for a few very short YT clips, I’ve never actually seen any of these things actually rolling along on a road.


Also, the inquiry was about rolled fenders; not super cambergang nonsense.

One is not the other.


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

TwoLitreVW said:


> Agreed.
> 
> And save for a few very short YT clips, I’ve never actually seen any of these things actually rolling along on a road.
> 
> ...


My friend you must travel to Ocean City MD last weekend in September. You'll see all that your eyes can handle :thumbup:


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

TwoLitreVW said:


> nonsense.


Nonsense is relative when in the shadow of the Fuji building. That car may be the most normal thing you see there.


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## Just Another Sweater (Aug 11, 2002)

TwoLitreVW said:


> Agreed.
> 
> *And save for a few very short YT clips, I’ve never actually seen any of these things actually rolling along on a road*.
> 
> ...


I've seen a half dozen or so of these chanbergang cars driving in my area. When I see them I get as far away as possible. They are mostly older Japanese cars (LS 400/460) and a couple old Mercedes. 

I'm not kidding, they really do drive these things even if they are a hazard.


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## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

I was noticing the other day that I haven't seen these in a while. In the '90s it seemed like every Japanese car had them, a little "aligner" that kept the window from missing the channel when it was rolled up. Anyone know what happened? Are cars just designed better now? Any models still use them?


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## Just Another Sweater (Aug 11, 2002)

cityjohn said:


> I was noticing the other day that I haven't seen these in a while. In the '90s it seemed like every Japanese car had them, a little "aligner" that kept the window from missing the channel when it was rolled up. Anyone know what happened? Are cars just designed better now? Any models still use them?


The window frame pictured is minimal, perhaps the clip is needed to increase support and security. My 2000 Corolla has the clips but the German cars I've owned since 2002 have not. The window frames are much thicker & larger so there is no need for the clips.

Just my theory.


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## 4.OMG (Dec 20, 2004)

Here's my question: Do catalytic converters ever go bad strictly due to age?

My '88 Monte Carlo still has the factory cat (all other emissions systems are long gone, though) and I'm wondering if I should replace the cat at the same time I replace the rest of the exhaust. It doesn't rattle and shows no external signs of trauma, but it's 30 years old and old technology to begin with.


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

GTijoejoe said:


> My friend you must travel to Ocean City MD last weekend in September. You'll see all that your eyes can handle :thumbup:


Yeah, that’s actually the reason i stopped going to that **** show.

I believe it.


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

New piece of steel for the outside of the FJ that is powdercoated already, but I need to drill through it to mount some stuffs. What's the best way to prevent rust on that new hole's edge? Mask off to a little circle and spray it with paint, front and rear?


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

TooFitToQuit said:


> New piece of steel for the outside of the FJ that is powdercoated already, but I need to drill through it to mount some stuffs. What's the best way to prevent rust on that new hole's edge? Mask off to a little circle and spray it with paint, front and rear?


Yes. If you want to do some extra effort for a little bit better result, you can use a Q-tip or a really small paint brush. Spray the paint onto a piece of cardboard and then use that as your palette to paint from. This method eliminates the need for taping, and gives no overspray. If you wanted to go overboard, do a self-etching primer first, then top coat it. :thumbup:


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

Now my question. s. Questions. First, can we go over certain automakers' nomenclature logic? I think the one that I understand the least is Mercedes-Benz. I would absolutely love to see it broken down into some meaningful parts, because it is impossible for me to memorize the associations ("Okay that is what an E350 looks like" now memorize it, doesn't work for me). I might be making assumptions, but I suspect there's more information within the name than just the shape of the car.

For example, BMW gives you the model in the first character, and then 10x the engine displacement in the second and third character, and then...well what is the i? And the x is for AWD. I don't think MB's logic is the same, but could someone break it down similarly for me? And Lexus? And any others that I'm not thinking of, that use primarily numbers for their model designations.

And then could we go over trim designations? Let me just throw out an example to explain my question. I think this is a Nissan:










Obviously, the AWD is for all-wheel drive, I know what that is. What is SL? I'm pretty confident it designates the trim level in some fashion. That's not really what I'm wondering. What I'm most curious about is if it stands for something? Do they just pick two random letters? This is widespread across probably half of the common car manufacturers. VW uses S, SE, SEL(I think?), Nissan also uses SV, and probably others. You get my point. Is there a good resource for what it all means? Or do you have to go to each individual dealer to get more information. I want to know, but I don't want to know that bad. :laugh::laugh:


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

Rob Cote said:


> Yes. If you want to do some extra effort for a little bit better result, you can use a Q-tip or a really small paint brush. Spray the paint onto a piece of cardboard and then use that as your palette to paint from. This method eliminates the need for taping, and gives no overspray. If you wanted to go overboard, do a self-etching primer first, then top coat it. :thumbup:


:beer::thumbup:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Rob Cote said:


> Now my question. s. Questions.


You are waaay overthinking it. Yes, the trim designations (GL, SE, XR etc) are generally meaningless, except to designate the trim (bacronyms have been invented for them, like GTI= Grand Touring Injection, GL=Grand Luxe, etc, which may have meant something, but that was probably only true long ago). Nowadays, it's meaningless. S sounds sporty, so a lot of manufacturers use it. G was big in the 70s/80s. R generally means a racy version. X has been used for large, luxury, and AWD. T for turbo! Q is an odd letter that Infiniti took over years ago ("q-ship" was a term for a brand's utmost luxury trims, but again, old and meaningless nowadays with EVERY Infiniti starting with Q). But there is no defined dictionary, it's all marketing. They want you to think or feel that SL=Sport Luxury, but on a Versa, it's just Sadness and Lethargy.

Mercedes does follow some logic, C being smaller cars, E midsize, and S large (for the broad basics). The takeoffs from those (SLK, CLS, etc) are further descriptions of the model from it's "base". Sometimes they are meaningless, too. 

Generally the numbers meant engine size, but that, too, is old news. They now use the numbers to slot versions of cars amongst themselves. For example the 300 is usually better than the 200, and 250 is in the middle. They could all come with the same 1.8 liter engine and have those different names. BMW and Mercedes don't correlate directly to engine size anymore, not sure about Lexus. 

BMW i used to mean injection, back when the e models existed (e stood for the German word for carburettor). Now they just put it on them all since it's got brand cache (yes, the d diesel models exist, but no one looks at the i and says, "ah yes, a gas engine BMW! how special!" lol).

TLDR, sometimes they mean something, usually they don't.


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## dunkadunkle (Jan 15, 2008)

why do all mustang drivers crash


----------



## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

dunkadunkle said:


> why do all mustang drivers crash


Not all. I've had seven and never did.


----------



## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

VDub2625 said:


> You are waaay overthinking it. Yes, the trim designations (GL, SE, XR etc) are generally meaningless, except to designate the trim (bacronyms have been invented for them, like GTI= Grand Touring Injection, GL=Grand Luxe, etc, which may have meant something, but that was probably only true long ago). Nowadays, it's meaningless. S sounds sporty, so a lot of manufacturers use it. G was big in the 70s/80s. R generally means a racy version. X has been used for large, luxury, and AWD. T for turbo! Q is an odd letter that Infiniti took over years ago ("q-ship" was a term for a brand's utmost luxury trims, but again, old and meaningless nowadays with EVERY Infiniti starting with Q). But there is no defined dictionary, it's all marketing. They want you to think or feel that SL=Sport Luxury, but on a Versa, it's just Sadness and Lethargy.
> 
> Mercedes does follow some logic, C being smaller cars, E midsize, and S large (for the broad basics). The takeoffs from those (SLK, CLS, etc) are further descriptions of the model from it's "base". Sometimes they are meaningless, too.
> 
> ...


That's amazing. Thank you! What criteria do they used for "better" in the bolded part? If it's the same size of car (i.e.- C-class) with the same engine, the numbers are just different trims?


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## MBrown (Aug 1, 2000)

VDub2625 said:


> You are waaay overthinking it. Yes, the trim designations (GL, SE, XR etc) are generally meaningless, except to designate the trim (bacronyms have been invented for them, like GTI= Grand Touring Injection, GL=Grand Luxe, etc, which may have meant something, but that was probably only true long ago). Nowadays, it's meaningless. S sounds sporty, so a lot of manufacturers use it. G was big in the 70s/80s. R generally means a racy version. X has been used for large, luxury, and AWD. T for turbo! Q is an odd letter that Infiniti took over years ago ("q-ship" was a term for a brand's utmost luxury trims, but again, old and meaningless nowadays with EVERY Infiniti starting with Q). But there is no defined dictionary, it's all marketing. They want you to think or feel that SL=Sport Luxury, but on a Versa, it's just Sadness and Lethargy.
> 
> Mercedes does follow some logic, C being smaller cars, E midsize, and S large (for the broad basics). The takeoffs from those (SLK, CLS, etc) are further descriptions of the model from it's "base". Sometimes they are meaningless, too.
> 
> ...


Agreed, "i" used to stand for fuel injection. On Mercedes, "e" means the same thing. The German word for fuel injection is "enspritz", hence the "e".

Both BMW and MB used to be more meticulous in their naming. In the late 1980s, my father had a Mercedes-Benz 300 SDL. That translated to a 3-liter (300), S-class (S), Diesel (D), with the long wheelbase (L). Other S-Class car were named appropriately. A 280 SE sedan had a 2.8 liter engine, S-Class body, fuel injection, and was the standard (non-Long) wheelbase.


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## TDIBUGMAN (May 15, 2001)

Rob Cote said:


> That's amazing. Thank you! What criteria do they used for "better" in the bolded part? If it's the same size of car (i.e.- C-class) with the same engine, the numbers are just different trims?


It usually has to do with engine output - nothing to do with trims.

For example, you can load up a 320i to the same specs as a 340i or even better if the 340i has zero options.

Years ago, "E" could mean economy or efficiency- such as a Jaguar XJS-HE or a BMW 325e.

Or, in Mercedes world, "e" stood for einspritzung - fuel injection. You could buy a 280 or a 280e for example.


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## TDIBUGMAN (May 15, 2001)

MBrown said:


> Agreed, "i" used to stand for fuel injection. On Mercedes, "e" means the same thing. The German word for fuel injection is "enspritz", hence the "e".
> 
> Both BMW and MB used to be more meticulous in their naming. In the late 1980s, my father had a Mercedes-Benz 300 SDL. That translated to a 3-liter (300), S-class (S), Diesel (D), with the long wheelbase (L). Other S-Class car were named appropriately. A 280 SE sedan had a 2.8 liter engine, S-Class body, fuel injection, and was the standard (non-Long) wheelbase.


Beat me by a minute!

When Mercedes swapped nomenclature for 1995 model year, everyone was bothered. In reality, post-change, you immediately knew what MODEL was being referred to, before the displacement. I think most people prefer it that way.


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## VWestlife (Sep 29, 2004)

TDIBUGMAN said:


> When Mercedes swapped nomenclature for 1995 model year, everyone was bothered. In reality, post-change, you immediately knew what MODEL was being referred to, before the displacement. I think most people prefer it that way.


And Mercedes-Benz was already breaking their model numbering system long before then. For example, the 190E never actually had a 1.9-liter engine. The base engine was 2.0 liters, but the problem was that in Europe they already had a 200E model in the larger W123 chassis. So they called it 190E instead.

They soon started adding on a suffix to indicate the actual engine displacement, for example the 190E 2.6, or the 300D 2.5 Turbo.

The "E-class" came about merely because the 300E was its most popular model prior to the naming scheme change. That's when the E lost its original meaning of Einspritzung (gasoline fuel injection), because they now had a E300 Diesel in the lineup.


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

I'm ****ing sorry I asked now :laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## BigSandwich (Jul 22, 2004)

Rob Cote said:


> I'm ****ing sorry I asked now :laugh::laugh::laugh:


The best way to learn the new MB naming convention is to look at their website. http://mbusa.com they divide it up well with profiles of all of the vehicles.

The have Sedans, Coupes, Convertibles, SUVs( I don't really care about the SUVs but you will get the point with the cars)

Sedans are
C is small
E is medium
S is big

Coupes are 
CLA - Smallest (Four Door Coupe Shape)
C - small
E - medium
CLS - Big (Four Door Coupe Shape)
S - big 

Number are basically just the different trim levels for the model. eg. E series comes in E300 and E400 trims. Which are all 3 digits

One thing to keep in mind is many of the cars have 2 different grill / bumper treatment. Same car will have a sport option or a classic option which can make them appear different at a glance. 

AMG cars, the high performance models typically only have 2 digit numbers. So E63, CLA45, etc.


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## MBrown (Aug 1, 2000)

TDIBUGMAN said:


> It usually has to do with engine output - nothing to do with trims.
> 
> *For example, you can load up a 320i to the same specs as a 340i or even better if the 340i has zero options.*
> 
> ...


Almost.

True that if you option up a BMW, you can get almost to the equipment (and price!) of it sibling, but.... you still have the smaller motor. That has impacts. Smaller, lighter-duty battery and charging system, less cooling, usually smaller brakes. Possibly negatives. 

Then again, there were those who felt that the E39 (1997-2002) 528i six-cylinder was the smarter buy than that generation's V8 model, the 540i. The V8 was tall, so they had to revert to recirculating-ball steering in 8-cylinder cars instead of the 528's rack-and-pinion. And the six-cylinder model was a few points closer to perfect 50/50 balance than the V8. (I had one of each...plus the M5 from that generation.)


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## Silly_me (Jul 26, 1999)

VWestlife said:


> That's when the E lost its original meaning of Einspritzung (gasoline fuel injection), because they now had a E300 Diesel in the lineup.


At least the two ton 4.7L SL550 lives up to it's nomenclature :laugh:


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## NeverEnoughCars (Aug 2, 2013)

TooFitToQuit said:


> Not all. I've had seven and never did.


Not all drivers crash but all mustangs will crash at one point in their life.


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## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

I remember something about Mercedes-Benz's SL being described as using those letters to mean "super light." Which is opposite of what the S normally means (S-Class) and the L (LWB).

And regarding bacronyms, in the 1970s Mazda advertised their GLC hatchback as being a "great little car." 

The most popular letters for models in general have seemed to be C D E G L R S T X Z (or combos of them), making Infiniti's Q and Pontiac's J stand out all the more.


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## MontoyaF1 (Apr 6, 2004)

Engineering question: With all the attention on fuel economy, is there anything to be gained in wheel bearing development? 

In other words, is there any more friction/drag left in modern day wheel bearings that can be removed through newer materials or manufacturing methods?


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## Silly_me (Jul 26, 1999)

cityjohn said:


> I remember something about Mercedes-Benz's SL being described as using those letters to mean "super light."


The first model to carry the designation SL, or Sportlich leicht, was the Gullwing, a display of Max Holffman's automotive clairvoyance (that man did more for Euro car industry in the U.S. than any other single person, and he was a dealer).



cityjohn said:


> making Infiniti's Q and Pontiac's J stand out all the more.


Hey, Infniti had a J as well! :laugh:


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## Rob Cote (Dec 6, 2006)

MontoyaF1 said:


> Engineering question: With all the attention on fuel economy, is there anything to be gained in wheel bearing development?
> 
> In other words, is there any more friction/drag left in modern day wheel bearings that can be removed through newer materials or manufacturing methods?


As an engineer yes. There's always a solution or an improvement to be made. Note that there is always a cost associated with it. Whether modern wheel bearings have approached the point of diminishing returns, I cannot say. I'm not in that industry.


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## dunkadunkle (Jan 15, 2008)

why do drivers think its normal to camp in the left lane?


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## NeverEnoughCars (Aug 2, 2013)

dunkadunkle said:


> why do drivers think its normal to camp in the left lane?


Because NJ


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## Mightion (Mar 19, 2008)

At what point, after many attempts to fix a chronic problem, will the DEALERSHIP or manufacturer, give up and stop attempting to repair it? Assume a chronic, non-hazardous situation like a leaking roof?


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

Mightion said:


> At what point, after many attempts to fix a chronic problem, will the DEALERSHIP or manufacturer, give up and stop attempting to repair it? Assume a chronic, non-hazardous situation like a leaking roof?


Check your states lemon laws


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## Mightion (Mar 19, 2008)

A.Wilder said:


> Check your states lemon laws


Yeah, it's already qualified as a lemon, but I really don't want to replace the car, when all factors considered. They did give me an extra year's warranty though.

I don't want it replaced partly because it would be near impossible to replace with a new car, and I don't want to change a one-owner (me) car with a more-than-one owner car.

Just wondering if the manuafacturer would ever throw up its hands and say "Enough"...


----------



## VWmk3GTI (May 4, 2013)

What's a decent quality 10mm brake flair kit brand


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

I'm really trying to figure out what EXACTLY makes today's engines sound like ****.

I'll take for example my 1982 CB750K bike. It's really not much of a machine in comparison to other bikes. But god that thing has one of the best exhaust notes possible. It's also carbureted; 4 carbs, stock factory exhaust. And I would have it no other way. Then I go about listening to videos of the brand new CB1100EX and CB1100RS, which have basically taken my bike and added fuel injection, with a bigger displacement. It sounds like a damn sewing machine.

Literally every 4-cylinder bike on the market today, even the sports bikes, sounds about 3,000 times too refined even WITH aftermarket illegal exhaust, yet my old ass bike sounds so throaty, full of character and a huge sense of power. I feel like sound and harmonics are about 50% of the whole experience.

So what is it. Exactly. The way the fuel is administered into the engine makes all the difference? Sound is vibration, and other than the injection this engine hasn't really changed at all...yet has lost all of its appeal to me. How could I possible get that carbureted sound out of a port-injected engine? Install ITBs so that the intake breaths more like it's pulling air and fuel? Doesn't change the exhaust note though.

Anyway, never getting rid of my carbed bike lol


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Might just be fuel injection and more precise mixtures allowing for better combustion and less cam overlap. 

There’s tons of factors at play, from valve train and timing, combustion efficiency, type of fuel delivery, manifold tuning (where applicable), etc.


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## drecian (Apr 5, 2005)

TwoLitreVW said:


> Might just be fuel injection and more precise mixtures allowing for better combustion and less cam overlap.


I'd also say that fuel injection allows a the much smoother idle.

Depending on cam specs, some of the intake charge can be blown back out the intake valve; so the intake charge gets a 'double shot'.

With carbs, this is just a fact of life and you tune around it. Modern fuel injection can sense this loading up, and weaken the mixture for the next intake charge.

I've even read that some manufacturers are able to make a radical cam idle smoothly, but deliberately don't, so as not to sterilise the driving experience.


Sent from my GT-I9507 using Tapatalk


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## VarianceVQ (Jun 26, 2005)

What exactly is meant by "steering feel"?

I've seen it said by some people that my car supposedly lacking in this regard but...it feels like it has good weight and I don't really feel a disconnect from my direction inputs and where the car goes.

What am I (not) missing?


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Its the idea you can feel the road conditions through the steering wheel when you're holding it - if you have tight steering but can feels the cracks, bumps, and grit then there is feel, if its tight without feeling anything its numb. Its basically based on what kind of bushings are used for the steering mounts, the stiffer the mounts the more feel you get, but can be affected by what materials parts are made of and how the suspension is set up.


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

VarianceVQ said:


> What exactly is meant by "steering feel"?
> 
> I've seen it said by some people that my car supposedly lacking in this regard but...it feels like it has good weight and I don't really feel a disconnect from my direction inputs and where the car goes.
> 
> What am I (not) missing?


Have you ever driven, say, a 1970s Ford pickup with power steering? And how much the wheel moves yet the tires remain pointed whatever direction?

Or a car with finger-light steering, no matter what the travelling speed?

Steering feel is exact opposite. 

Out of the limited number of vehicles I've owned, and the other few I've driven, my Golf MK3 had the best steering feel. Explorer second (we're going off steering here, not handling). My S-10 was manual steering and not fun. The A4's speed-sensitive steering is annoying. Kia was meh. Expedition... I can feel the Earth rotting from the fossil fuels I'm burning.


----------



## Phillie Phanatic (Mar 4, 2013)

Until now, I haven't really cared to follow much of the EV debate/options out there. The Mission E has my attention and I'm curious about charging and mileage. One of the latest posts references a 311 mile range:



Rob said:


> http://www.evo.co.uk/porsche/17091/new-2018-porsche-mission-e-everything-you-need-to-know?_mout=1&utm_campaign=evo_newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_source=newsletter
> 
> Sub 8 minutes on the Nurburgring (as fast as or faster than the original GT3!), 0-100km/h in 3.5 seconds, 311 mile range, 592bhp.


In my current car, a B8.5 Allroad, I fill up, and the range indicates 355 miles. However, due to the entirety of my driving being in the city, I'm refilling after closer to 275 miles. With an electric vehicle, is there such parasitic loss based on driving dynamics or is 311 miles really 311 miles regardless of where/how I'm driving?


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

Phillie Phanatic said:


> Until now, I haven't really cared to follow much of the EV debate/options out there. The Mission E has my attention and I'm curious about charging and mileage. One of the latest posts references a 311 mile range:
> 
> 
> 
> In my current car, a B8.5 Allroad, I fill up, and the range indicates 355 miles. However, due to the entirety of my driving being in the city, I'm refilling after closer to 275 miles. With an electric vehicle, is there such parasitic loss based on driving dynamics or is 311 miles really 311 miles regardless of where/how I'm driving?


there shouldn't be; EV range should be fairly consistent.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

VarianceVQ said:


> What exactly is meant by "steering feel"?
> 
> I've seen it said by some people that my car supposedly lacking in this regard but...it feels like it has good weight and I don't really feel a disconnect from my direction inputs and where the car goes.
> 
> What am I (not) missing?


I haven't driven a Sport, but have driven a regular Elantra and it feels kind of dead and wooden like the steering in our Corolla, with the different steering modes just changing the amount of effort required. Another common "bad" example that comes to mind would be cars like '90s GM W-bodies (Lumina Euro 3.1) where they dialed up the effort so it would feel "sporty" but there was still no feel.

It's hard to put into words simply, but with a good setup (hydraulic Mazda steering is some of the best, even pedestrian versions like on my old Protegé) you can easily feel what the tires are doing, how much grip is left, little jiggles from imperfections in the road and pulls and tugs from truck ruts and torque steer -- it doesn't just feel like you're driving a Logitech force-feedback steering wheel. When you're hustling it, you can feel when the tires are riiiiiight on the limit of adhesion and make adjustments to keep the car from understeering/pushing wide. Contrast that with something with poor steering feel where you can only really tell you're about to be in trouble if the tires start howling and then suddenly let go -- if everything always feels insulated/smooth it can also lead to drivers feeling overconfident and getting into trouble thinking more capability is left in reserve than there really is.


----------



## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

Phillie Phanatic said:


> Until now, I haven't really cared to follow much of the EV debate/options out there. The Mission E has my attention and I'm curious about charging and mileage. One of the latest posts references a 311 mile range:
> 
> 
> 
> In my current car, a B8.5 Allroad, I fill up, and the range indicates 355 miles. However, due to the entirety of my driving being in the city, I'm refilling after closer to 275 miles. With an electric vehicle, is there such parasitic loss based on driving dynamics or is 311 miles really 311 miles regardless of where/how I'm driving?





GreenandChrome said:


> there shouldn't be; EV range should be fairly consistent.


 Actually, EVs do better (_significantly_ better) in city driving, vs. highway driving. 
Reason: When you're JustCrising, you really aren't slowing down ever - therefore, no regen. 
In traffic, though, you recapture (some) energy, every time that you slow down (so long as you drive it right, and use the actual brake as little as possible.)


----------



## Phillie Phanatic (Mar 4, 2013)

cuppie said:


> Actually, EVs do better (_significantly_ better) in city driving, vs. highway driving.
> Reason: When you're JustCrising, you really aren't slowing down ever - therefore, no regen.
> In traffic, though, you recapture (some) energy, every time that you slow down (so long as you drive it right, and use the actual brake as little as possible.)


Thanks for mentioning that. I was just reading about this as well. I rarely ever drive more than 12 miles in a day and I'm starting to realize some sort of EV might be well suited for someone like me.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

GreenandChrome said:


> there shouldn't be; EV range should be fairly consistent.


What? No, it's going to vary depending on speed, hills, trafgic etc. Just like any engine and fuel source, the harder you run it the faster it depletes it's fuel source.


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

A.Wilder said:


> What? No, it's going to vary depending on speed, hills, trafgic etc. Just like any engine and fuel source, the harder you run it the faster it depletes it's fuel source.



That's not the intent of the question. Info on EV highway vs city driving efficiency states you'll see city driving (as mentioned above) range increases because of regeneration. It's the opposite of ICE range. So that being the baseline, the "311 mile range" would apply to a highway driving maximum. Mfgs can't base mileage ranges on regenerative estimates, there's no way to calculate that with enough certainty. ICE ranges, though, can be tested and verified. 

I believe those that have hybrids/EVs can shed some light on their mileage range.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

GreenandChrome said:


> That's not the intent of the question. Info on EV highway vs city driving efficiency states you'll see city driving (as mentioned above) range increases because of regeneration. It's the opposite of ICE range. So that being the baseline, the "311 mile range" would apply to a highway driving maximum. Mfgs can't base mileage ranges on regenerative estimates, there's no way to calculate that with enough certainty. ICE ranges, though, can be tested and verified.
> 
> I believe those that have hybrids/EVs can shed some light on their mileage range.


Total range won't increase with Regen, Regen doesnt recapture 100% of the energy used. It's like a cell phone, if I play games with my screen on full bright I'll drain the battery in a few hours. If I am just browsing the forums it could last all day. There are many variables at play: AC/HEAT, road surface, temperature, speed, road gradient, etc. The original question was his current car says he has a range of 350 miles but usually only sees 275. An EV will also give an estimated range when the battery is 100% and that will go down with use. The car can't anticipate the variables that impacts range. If you are doing 80mph on the freeway, your estimated rnage will drop, hit traffic with some Regen and your range will go up. It's a dynamic number with tons of variables. In the posters example of 350 estimated range and 275 real range for his ICE car he's seeing about 22% difference between estimate and actual, an EV will be similar. Maybe an EV will do better in certain circumstances, but to say an EV will get 300 miles every charge is not accurate.


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

A.Wilder said:


> Total range won't increase with Regen, Regen doesnt recapture 100% of the energy used...


Ive never seen this verified but what I think is happening is that in the city the regen captures _enough_ energy to overshadow the highway range. What I mean is that because aerodynamic drag increases with speed, if you drove at a steady city speed you’d get more mpg in a gas car and range in an electric car, but only electric/hybrid cars can actually recapture braking energy, increasing the numbers above highway range. 

In other words total efficiency is better in the city because less drag+regen>steady higher speed+drag.


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## Phillie Phanatic (Mar 4, 2013)

A.Wilder said:


> Total range won't increase with Regen, Regen doesnt recapture 100% of the energy used. It's like a cell phone, if I play games with my screen on full bright I'll drain the battery in a few hours. If I am just browsing the forums it could last all day. There are many variables at play: AC/HEAT, road surface, temperature, speed, road gradient, etc. The original question was his current car says he has a range of 350 miles but usually only sees 275. An EV will also give an estimated range when the battery is 100% and that will go down with use. The car can't anticipate the variables that impacts range. If you are doing 80mph on the freeway, your estimated rnage will drop, hit traffic with some Regen and your range will go up. It's a dynamic number with tons of variables. In the posters example of 350 estimated range and 275 real range for his ICE car he's seeing about 22% difference between estimate and actual, an EV will be similar. Maybe an EV will do better in certain circumstances, but to say an EV will get 300 miles every charge is not accurate.


I wasn't asking if there will be _no_ parasitic loss under normal driving conditions, but I was curious if there would be a noticeable decrease considering my normal driving conditions are surface streets in a city. From what you're saying it sounds like the purported 311 mile range on the Mission E would actually work out to be around 250 for me given the driving conditions.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

Phillie Phanatic said:


> I wasn't asking if there will be _no_ parasitic loss under normal driving conditions, but I was curious if there would be a noticeable decrease considering my normal driving conditions are surface streets in a city. From what you're saying it sounds like the purported 311 mile range on the Mission E would actually work out to be around 250 for me given the driving conditions.


There's so many variables it's hard to say, but I would take any range estimate ICE/EV/HYBRID with a grain of salt. The estimated range when in city driving goes up because the car is constantly recapturing a little bit of energy with deceleration, but again, it's an estimate and more an indication that your are recovering energy than an indication that your breaking the laws of thermodynamics and getting more range with use. That's simply impossible.

https://www.gearbrain.com/electric-car-range-test-cycle-2547963655.html

There's also 3 major ways to test range internationally and you can see estimated range varies widely depending on how it's tested.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

Air and water do mix said:


> Ive never seen this verified but what I think is happening is that in the city the regen captures _enough_ energy to overshadow the highway range. What I mean is that because aerodynamic drag increases with speed, if you drove at a steady city speed you’d get more mpg in a gas car and range in an electric car, but only electric/hybrid cars can actually recapture braking energy, increasing the numbers above highway range.
> 
> In other words total efficiency is better in the city because less drag+regen>steady higher speed+drag.


It's just an estimate. The car is telling you that at this time and with similar driving this is the range you might* get. It's the same for an ICE car. All it takes is a few enthusiastic blasts from a red light and the range of both is depleted, the EV can just capture a little bit when slowing down for the next red light.

*The trip computer is just an estimate!


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## Phillie Phanatic (Mar 4, 2013)

A.Wilder said:


> There's so many variables it's hard to say, but I would take any range estimate ICE/EV/HYBRID with a grain of salt. The estimated range when in city driving goes up because the car is constantly recapturing a little bit of energy with deceleration, but again, it's an estimate and more an indication that your are recovering energy than an indication that your breaking the laws of thermodynamics and getting more range with use. That's simply impossible.
> 
> https://www.gearbrain.com/electric-car-range-test-cycle-2547963655.html
> 
> There's also 3 major ways to test range internationally and you can see estimated range varies widely depending on how it's tested.


:thumbup: Thanks!


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## scottybones (Jan 5, 2008)

*Spark Plug Wire Refurbish?*

Is it possible/dumb/wise/suggested to ‘refurbish’ a set of spark plug wires? I’m do for a change on my ABA GTI. I have a ‘spare’ used set, but it was from a Jetta I parted out years ago. The connectors have bluish corrosion but the boots are in good shape (no cracking). They are decent quality too; Bremi brand IIRC. But I can’t remember how many miles I had on them before I pulled em out...

So, can I use some electrical contact cleaner or another DIY trick to get em back to spec? Or am I being uber cheap on my gasser w/ 230k+ miles?


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

A.Wilder said:


> It's just an estimate. The car is telling you that at this time and with similar driving this is the range you might* get. It's the same for an ICE car. All it takes is a few enthusiastic blasts from a red light and the range of both is depleted, the EV can just capture a little bit when slowing down for the next red light.
> 
> *The trip computer is just an estimate!


I'm well aware, but I'm simply saying that the losses of more drag (highway) are more than the losses of low drag from low speed plus the losses from kinetic energy/regen from braking. Basically I'm saying every step has losses, but asking which has the _most_ losses. Also I'm trying to account for what specific reasons for the amount of those losses. :beer:


I'm sure there are people who were amazed at the thought of recharging their batteries by braking and think that stopping/going is more efficient, not understanding that they're only getting a _percentage_ of the kinetic energy back as electricity.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

scottybones said:


> Is it possible/dumb/wise/suggested to ‘refurbish’ a set of spark plug wires? I’m do for a change on my ABA GTI. I have a ‘spare’ used set, but it was from a Jetta I parted out years ago. The connectors have bluish corrosion but the boots are in good shape (no cracking). They are decent quality too; Bremi brand IIRC. But I can’t remember how many miles I had on them before I pulled em out...
> 
> So, can I use some electrical contact cleaner or another DIY trick to get em back to spec? Or am I being uber cheap on my gasser w/ 230k+ miles?


It's as much about the insulation/boots as it is the actual "wiring" inside the insulation. The electricity will take the path of least resistance, and under compression there's a lot of atmosphere/fuel between the plug's electrodes inside the chamber, so the wires have to have good boots and insulation to deliver the spark anywhere but the closest ground. If they look good/aren't cracked and money is tight then give 'em a shot. If you're made of money buy new ones and don't worry about it.

If the car is new enough to have OBDII you'll be able to pull codes and find out if you have no misfires, misfires on particular cylinders or random misfires. :beer:


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## scottybones (Jan 5, 2008)

Wiring was something I was wondering about. Ah screw it, I’ll clean the tips and see how it runs. FYI, car is a 97 so OBDII. No misfires but that’s cause I just changed the plugs. :beer::beer:


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## CostcoPizza (Jan 20, 2008)

Pretty much all manual guidance says to get off the throttle before shifting. However, I notice when I'm in sport mode with the AC on, taking my foot off the gas and then pushing in the clutch results in an abrupt feeling to the drivetrain. 

Keeping a very light touch on the throttle as you clutch in makes that go away (light enough that the revs still fall).

Also my dad's 82 911SC (with slightly rich running CIS :laugh is _much_ happier and smoother when you delicately stay on the throttle shifting from 1st to 2nd.

Surely this can't be uncommon?


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

scottybones said:


> Wiring was something I was wondering about. Ah screw it, I’ll clean the tips and see how it runs. FYI, car is a 97 so OBDII. No misfires but that’s cause I just changed the plugs. :beer::beer:


You're good indefinitely, then. Keep 'em until it misfires, but with good quality wires (and hopefully remaining undisturbed from now on) you should have many, many trouble free miles with them. :thumbup:




CostcoPizza said:


> Pretty much all manual guidance says to get off the throttle before shifting. However, I notice when I'm in sport mode with the AC on, taking my foot off the gas and then pushing in the clutch results in an abrupt feeling to the drivetrain.
> 
> Keeping a very light touch on the throttle as you clutch in makes that go away (light enough that the revs still fall).
> 
> ...


It'd be different with carburetors, early fuel injection, different types of later injection, turbos, direct injection and possibly several other parameters. 

Basically every car will be different, so I wouldn't think there would be any hard-and-fast rules for this kind of thing. A throttle snapping shut on a carbureted car (and throttle body injection) leaves a manifold full of fast-moving fuel while the air stops moving much, much more quickly than the heavier fuel, causing unique situations compared to "port" injection. Port injection will be more about programming/throttle bypass/idle valve than anything else, as will direct injection, but I would think that those two have little else in common in this regard.

Perhaps some people can elaborate, but that's all I got off the top of my head.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

CostcoPizza said:


> Pretty much all manual guidance says to get off the throttle before shifting. However, I notice when I'm in sport mode with the AC on, taking my foot off the gas and then pushing in the clutch results in an abrupt feeling to the drivetrain.
> 
> Keeping a very light touch on the throttle as you clutch in makes that go away (light enough that the revs still fall).
> 
> ...


Fuel cutoff on deceleration is abrupt. It's more abrupt in older systems like CIS, and less so in newer EFI. Older cars use a throttle idle switch to know when the throttle is closed, and cut fuel off immediately. The engine then slows down until the fuel injectors reopen just above idle to stop it from stalling. Newer cars use a throttle delay so that when you get off the gas, the ECU slowly closes the throttle and fuel to increase comfort and decrease emissions (going from fuel to no fuel so abruptly results in unburnt hydrocarbon emissions).


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## Unilateral Phase Detractor (Aug 23, 2005)

A/C question: What's the acceptable temperature drop for the cooled air coming out of the vents on a modern car? We've been having some hot days and I've noticed our Mazda just doesn't seem to get the cabin comfortably cool unless you turn the temperature down to ~65. This is problematic because our son who rides in a rear facing seat gets very sweaty on the short drive home from daycare in the afternoon. No rear vents in the '16 CX-5 is another factor, but even in front it's still not great. 

By comparison, setting it at 70 on the Focus will freeze my elbows.


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## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

Unilateral Phase Detractor said:


> A/C question: What's the acceptable temperature drop for the cooled air coming out of the vents on a modern car? We've been having some hot days and I've noticed our *Mazda* just doesn't seem to get the cabin comfortably cool unless you turn the temperature down to ~65. This is problematic because our son who rides in a rear facing seat gets very sweaty on the short drive home from daycare in the afternoon. No rear vents in the '16 CX-5 is another factor, but even in front it's still not great.


You answered your own question (see the part I bolded)  

In all seriousness, my 2008 MS3's A/C was pretty lousy - even under warranty - compared to my 2001 GTI, both driven the same in the same part of the USA, both had automatic climate control (both cars set at 70 deg. year-round), had windows tinted in both, etc., etc. And you can't beat the "big 3" for their meat locker refrigeration  

But now our 2012 Beetle has A/C problems that I can't diagnose without taking it to a mechanic. Charge is good (verified with gauges), blower motor works, hot/fresh flap appears to work, condenser looks decent (though admittedly hard to check on a car lacking an upper grille), yet it won't get anything resembling "cold" except on "max" setting and highway driving. 2012+ Beetles have notoriously warm A/C but this is bad even for a Beetle.


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## tngdesi (Apr 7, 2001)

Ok, dumb question:
On the Nurburgring track. All the graffiti on the track gives the track personalty and looks pretty neat. My question is, does all that paint on the track effect traction on wet days? I have seen water "bead" on top of the paint and this is also especially bad for motorcycles too. Does the paint on the track cause issues?


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

The A/C is a big reason we have Toyotas. I bought a new Mazda Protege in '99 and a new Civic Si in '03 and the A/C never really worked in either of them when it was over 90-95° unless you were on the highway spinning the engine at 3000 or higher.

I test drove a Fit one summer as a potential replacement for the Si and liked it a lot but was sweating and the car hadn't really cooled down by the end of the test drive. My Yaris feels like it has American car A/C: it immediately puts out 60-degree air when it's been baking in the parking lot all day (interior temps: 130 or more) and quickly gets down into the 30s.

Corolla is great as well, white car + tint = no trouble keeping interior temps in the 60s in the Mojave desert last summer even when it was 105°.


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## Zunflower (Jun 5, 2013)

I'll admit, being second or I supposed third best thing to hauling stuff and driving in the snow, my (outgoing) Element had a helluva an AC unit to cool that giant box..one of the few vehicles I've owned that could actually make it UNCOMFORTABLY cold when cranked at full. So much so that the vent almost always had to be directed away from your hands at the wheel or they would just cramp from the blown cold air.


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

g-man_ae said:


> You answered your own question (see the part I bolded)
> 
> In all seriousness, my 2008 MS3's A/C was pretty lousy - even under warranty - compared to my 2001 GTI, both driven the same in the same part of the USA, both had automatic climate control (both cars set at 70 deg. year-round), had windows tinted in both, etc., etc. And you can't beat the "big 3" for their meat locker refrigeration
> 
> But now our 2012 Beetle has A/C problems that I can't diagnose without taking it to a mechanic. *Charge is good (verified with gauges)*, blower motor works, hot/fresh flap appears to work, condenser looks decent (though admittedly hard to check on a car lacking an upper grille), yet it won't get anything resembling "cold" except on "max" setting and highway driving. 2012+ Beetles have notoriously warm A/C but this is bad even for a Beetle.


 It might still be low charge. 
Static pressure won't really be 'low' unless the system is damned-near empty. And, a swash-plate compressor, because it's designed to maintain a certain pressure ratio, is quite effective at hiding a low-charge situation - but, it won't be able to effectively cool the evaporator. 

Get a proper evac & charge done (recover refrigerant, and charge to spec on A/C service label), and see how it works then (and, when they do it, have them shoot some UV dye in it, too.) 
You can't charge a modern system 'to pressure' - it needs to be done by weight.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

adrew said:


> The A/C is a big reason we have Toyotas. I bought a new Mazda Protege in '99 and a new Civic Si in '03 and the A/C never really worked in either of them when it was over 90-95° unless you were on the highway spinning the engine at 3000 or higher.
> 
> *I test drove a Fit one summer as a potential replacement for the Si and liked it a lot but was sweating and the car hadn't really cooled down by the end of the test drive.* My Yaris feels like it has American car A/C: it immediately puts out 60-degree air when it's been baking in the parking lot all day (interior temps: 130 or more) and quickly gets down into the 30s.
> 
> Corolla is great as well, white car + tint = no trouble keeping interior temps in the 60s in the Mojave desert last summer even when it was 105°.



Ding ding! We bought ours at a pretty good price, as buying on the last day of the year can get good results!

The A/C has never been stellar and needed a charge almost yearly after the first couple of years (it was two years old with about 28,000 miles when we got it) and the clutch dropped out completely this year, so we got a new compressor (as cheaply as the clutch/coil). No biggie, as it's now 10 years old, but even when everything is working perfectly it's little more than adequate when the temp is 90º+.


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## NeverEnoughCars (Aug 2, 2013)

Zunflower said:


> one of the few vehicles I've owned that could actually make it UNCOMFORTABLY cold when cranked at full.


I have never had a vehicle that was able to get uncomfortably cold in the summer. But I also do not run a heater in the house during the winter. 
I wish I could find a vehicle that was able to cool me down to the point where I became uncomfortable.


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## CostcoPizza (Jan 20, 2008)

VDub2625 said:


> Fuel cutoff on deceleration is abrupt. It's more abrupt in older systems like CIS, and less so in newer EFI. Older cars use a throttle idle switch to know when the throttle is closed, and cut fuel off immediately. The engine then slows down until the fuel injectors reopen just above idle to stop it from stalling. Newer cars use a throttle delay so that when you get off the gas, the ECU slowly closes the throttle and fuel to increase comfort and decrease emissions (going from fuel to no fuel so abruptly results in unburnt hydrocarbon emissions).





Air and water do mix said:


> It'd be different with carburetors, early fuel injection, different types of later injection, turbos, direct injection and possibly several other parameters.
> 
> Basically every car will be different, so I wouldn't think there would be any hard-and-fast rules for this kind of thing. A throttle snapping shut on a carbureted car (and throttle body injection) leaves a manifold full of fast-moving fuel while the air stops moving much, much more quickly than the heavier fuel, causing unique situations compared to "port" injection. Port injection will be more about programming/throttle bypass/idle valve than anything else, as will direct injection, but I would think that those two have little else in common in this regard.
> 
> Perhaps some people can elaborate, but that's all I got off the top of my head.


Makes sense to me. :thumbup: :beer:


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

tngdesi said:


> Ok, dumb question:
> On the Nurburgring track. All the graffiti on the track gives the track personalty and looks pretty neat. My question is, does all that paint on the track effect traction on wet days? I have seen water "bead" on top of the paint and this is also especially bad for motorcycles too. Does the paint on the track cause issues?


yes and no.

Usually most paint is sprayed on with an aerosol can. Ever spray a concrete/asphalt surface with something like that, even by accident? Doesn't make a big difference.

If the paint is done with legitimate road paint, where it will be thick and hard, then it will affect grip. At our local race track they painted a big victory circle and finish line years ago. When it first was applied, the drivers could feel the grip loss. The car kinda slid out, but it was so quick it wasn't a huge issue.

The new finish line is this:


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

NeverEnoughCars said:


> I have never had a vehicle that was able to get uncomfortably cold in the summer. But I also do not run a heater in the house during the winter.
> I wish I could find a vehicle that was able to cool me down to the point where I became uncomfortable.


do you have a vehicle with seat coolers? those are awesome.

the only way I can get too cold is if I wear flip flops and my feet end up freezing.


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## NeverEnoughCars (Aug 2, 2013)

GreenandChrome said:


> do you have a vehicle with seat coolers? those are awesome.
> 
> the only way I can get too cold is if I wear flip flops and my feet end up freezing.


Not yet but cooled seats are almost a requirement for my next vehicle. I really want them but if I am forced into having a sunroof or automatic to get the cooled seats then the seats become less of an requirement. 
Last time it snowed here I was out walking barefoot. 
My wife calls me her space heater.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

NeverEnoughCars said:


> I have never had a vehicle that was able to get uncomfortably cold in the summer. But I also do not run a heater in the house during the winter.
> I wish I could find a vehicle that was able to cool me down to the point where I became uncomfortable.


The W-Body Impala we rented for a trip through Death Valley was pretty effective.

1500cc icebox here!

Last summer on a 105-degree day / interior temp / vent temp after about five minutes of driving. It goes down to 35-38 when rolling.


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## MBrown (Aug 1, 2000)

NeverEnoughCars said:


> Not yet but cooled seats are almost a requirement for my next vehicle. I really want them but if I am forced into having a sunroof or automatic to get the cooled seats then the seats become less of an requirement.
> Last time it snowed here I was out walking barefoot.
> My wife calls me her space heater.


I've had a couple of cars with seat coolers, and they didn't help as much as I had hoped. The cooling sensation was modest at best.

Believe it or not, my Miata has fantastic air conditioning. Mine is an RF (retractable fastback -- the current hardtop model) so the roof is pretty well insulated, and that helps. With the top up, the interior volume is barely larger than a VW glovebox  so it's cooling a VERY small space. On the rare occasions when I needed the AC (combinations of exceptional heat and stuck in traffic), the car cooled itself down impressively quickly.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

CostcoPizza said:


> Makes sense to me. :thumbup: :beer:


:beer:




adrew said:


> The W-Body Impala we rented for a trip through Death Valley was pretty effective.
> 
> 1500cc icebox here!
> 
> Last summer on a 105-degree day / interior temp / vent temp after about five minutes of driving. It goes down to 35-38 when rolling.


That's damned impressive!


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

NeverEnoughCars said:


> Not yet but cooled seats are almost a requirement for my next vehicle. I really want them but if I am forced into having a sunroof or automatic to get the cooled seats then the seats become less of an requirement.
> Last time it snowed here I was out walking barefoot.
> My wife calls me her space heater.


https://www.amazon.com/Zone-Tech-Co...D=51vNBW%2BmlaL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I'm similar. And my wife gets pissed because she's always cold. In bed I sleep out of the covers while she's buried under blankets like she's on Everest.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

NeverEnoughCars said:


> I have never had a vehicle that was able to get uncomfortably cold in the summer. But I also do not run a heater in the house during the winter.
> I wish I could find a vehicle that was able to cool me down to the point where I became uncomfortable.


My dad had a z32 300zx and that thing cranked out the coldest AC I've ever experienced.


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## TDIBUGMAN (May 15, 2001)

NeverEnoughCars said:


> I have never had a vehicle that was able to get uncomfortably cold in the summer. But I also do not run a heater in the house during the winter.
> I wish I could find a vehicle that was able to cool me down to the point where I became uncomfortable.


My Olds Firenza (Cavalier twin) had a massive a/c compressor. When it was on, the thing would barely move.

Once on the highway you would freeze. GM always made good a/c.


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

A.Wilder said:


> My dad had a z32 300zx and that thing cranked out the coldest AC I've ever experienced.


Coldest my car ever got was when I corrected my wife's driving.


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## Sold Over Sticker (Nov 29, 2009)

NeverEnoughCars said:


> I have never had a vehicle that was able to get uncomfortably cold in the summer. But I also do not run a heater in the house during the winter.
> I wish I could find a vehicle that was able to cool me down to the point where I became uncomfortable.


My MkIV was like that. In Phoenix in the summer I'd mix in some warm air on fan setting 1 when it was 118 out, and I'm a bigger dude who runs hot. Once that car was cooled down, I barely used the AC to keep the cabin comfortable.



GreenandChrome said:


> Coldest my car ever got was when I corrected my wife's driving.


:laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

GreenandChrome said:


> Coldest my car ever got was when I corrected my wife's driving.


:laugh:

I can’t remember the song, so I’m paraphrasing, but... “This beer is colder than the shoulder she’d give me if I told her the truth.”


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

Air and water do mix said:


> :laugh:
> 
> I can’t remember the song, so I’m paraphrasing, but... “This beer is colder than the shoulder she’d give me if I told her the truth.”


I burned my wife a few weeks ago. She was flipping me crap about the weather and brought up our wedding day. "Do you remember how cold it was when we got married?"

I shot back (after laughing myself and pausing so she knew I was joking): Still warmer than our marriage.

For the record, it was about 1F degrees that night in Jackson.


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## Mightion (Mar 19, 2008)

My '16 Golf has wonderful A/C - even on a 90 degree day, it can be blowing cold out of the vents before I even reach the end of my street.

The '17 Yaris I'm currently drive while VW fixes the roof (again) has small A/C vents, but it also gets very cold very fast. Of course, it's rather smaller than my Golf.

My mother's '07 Cobalt has weak airflow through the side vents (It was like this since new, but my mother said it was "just fine" when I suggested she have it looked at); , but even with the center vents doing most of the work, it's never had trouble keeping it cool inside.

I hate driving with windows open, so I won't even consider a car if it doesn't have decent A/C.


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## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

What was the first 200mph sedan?


----------



## KizashiAGP (Jun 29, 2016)

What technique do you trust to wash-down your engine bay?


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

KizashiAGP said:


> What technique do you trust to wash-down your engine bay?


I use simple green, a sponge/brush and a hose, I've been doing this for like 17yrs

I personally would not use high pressure wash.


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## Unilateral Phase Detractor (Aug 23, 2005)

adrew said:


> The W-Body Impala we rented for a trip through Death Valley was pretty effective.
> 
> 1500cc icebox here!
> 
> Last summer on a 105-degree day / interior temp / vent temp after about five minutes of driving. It goes down to 35-38 when rolling.


That's really impressive.


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## 557688 (Aug 21, 2010)

KizashiAGP said:


> What technique do you trust to wash-down your engine bay?


Take whatever pressure water you believe is hitting your engine while driving at natural speeds, apply simple green liberally to the engine, and then hit it with that.


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## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

cuppie said:


> It might still be low charge.
> Static pressure won't really be 'low' unless the system is damned-near empty. And, a swash-plate compressor, because it's designed to maintain a certain pressure ratio, is quite effective at hiding a low-charge situation - but, it won't be able to effectively cool the evaporator.
> 
> Get a proper evac & charge done (recover refrigerant, and charge to spec on A/C service label), and see how it works then (and, when they do it, have them shoot some UV dye in it, too.)
> You can't charge a modern system 'to pressure' - it needs to be done by weight.


We've actually done that once already. Again, the charge was already good, and the dye didn't show up anywhere.



TDIBUGMAN said:


> GM always made good a/c.


Except circa 1996 when they were switching over to R134a from R12. My Cutlass Supreme couldn't tolerate a typical Southern Summer day if parked outside. That's when I first discovered window tinting.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

worth_fixing said:


> I'm really trying to figure out what EXACTLY makes today's engines sound like ****.
> 
> I'll take for example my 1982 CB750K bike. It's really not much of a machine in comparison to other bikes. But god that thing has one of the best exhaust notes possible. It's also carbureted; 4 carbs, stock factory exhaust. And I would have it no other way. Then I go about listening to videos of the brand new CB1100EX and CB1100RS, which have basically taken my bike and added fuel injection, with a bigger displacement. It sounds like a damn sewing machine.
> 
> ...


I think a lot of it has to do with intake design. Modern engines are trying to make everything as quiet as possible and it hushes all the cool noise. On a related note when i was in the military i was wondering why the F-15 (two engines) is so much quieter than the F-16 (one engine). You would think 2 engines is twice the noise, right? turns out it has a lot to do with the design of the intake. However, i'm not sure if that translates 100% to automotive design.


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

A.Wilder said:


> I think a lot of it has to do with intake design. Modern engines are trying to make everything as quiet as possible and it hushes all the cool noise. On a related note when i was in the military i was wondering why the F-15 (two engines) is so much quieter than the F-16 (one engine). You would think 2 engines is twice the noise, right? turns out it has a lot to do with the design of the intake. However, i'm not sure if that translates 100% to automotive design.


Intake design has a LOT to do with the noise. American V8s with a single carb never had a great intake sound, but they had a fantastic exhaust noise. Batting around that intake from the carb, to the plenum, making a right angle turn into the intake runner, then snaking around a curve to the intake valve made the intake noise mostly a whooshing sound, not a nice burble. It has to rely on the exhaust to make good sounds. Straight intakes like Hilborn or Weber carbs probably helps a tremendous amount, but unfortunately I’ve never heard them driven in anger when so equipped. 

I think his bike would’ve had a lot of intake noise, being 4 short carbs on 4 straight intake tracts. That’s probably the biggest difference between the old and new bikes he was talking about (I’m not familiar with new bikes) and that’s how Beetles sound best. With two 2-barrel carbs on straight (ish) manifolds it makes for a slightly curved intake tract from the valve head to the end of the velocity stack, giving them a mean, strong and deep sound. Take that away and you have a noise from the exhaust, but it isn’t a great noise in my opinion. V8s rule in that regard.

Straight fours and sixes with either side draft carbs or ITBs have a similar quality to the intake sound and sound great for exactly the same reasons. 

TLDR: Intake noise is awesome!


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

GreenandChrome said:


> I burned my wife a few weeks ago. She was flipping me crap about the weather and brought up our wedding day. "Do you remember how cold it was when we got married?"
> 
> I shot back (after laughing myself and pausing so she knew I was joking): Still warmer than our marriage.
> 
> For the record, it was about 1F degrees that night in Jackson.



That is sooooo wrong. :laugh: :beer:


----------



## gonzo08452 (Apr 17, 2006)

Anyone know why the Center Support Bearing on the E46 is called a Guibo?


----------



## CostcoPizza (Jan 20, 2008)

VR6JH said:


> What was the first 200mph sedan?


I want to say the Bentley Continental Flying Spur, but that seems too recent.


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

gonzo08452 said:


> Anyone know why the Center Support Bearing on the E46 is called a Guibo?


It isn’t. The rubber driveshaft coupling is the guibo. (No, I don’t remember how you spell it and I think that’s wrong. :laugh










It’s on a lot more cars than the E46. I don’t know how far back it goes, but my 2002 had one, several Mercedes models had them and I believe quite a few other European cars had them, at least back to the ‘60s, probably much further back. :beer:


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## gonzo08452 (Apr 17, 2006)

Air and water do mix said:


> It isn’t. The rubber driveshaft coupling is the guibo. (No, I don’t remember how you spell it and I think that’s wrong. :laugh
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks. But why is that called a Guibo?


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

gonzo08452 said:


> Thanks. But why is that called a Guibo?


I used to sell parts at an import parts place in the ‘80s, I’ve sold a good number of them and no, I have no idea how it got its name. I’d love to know, too! :laugh: :beer:


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## CostcoPizza (Jan 20, 2008)

Wiki knows:



> Giubo is a contraction of the Italian word giunto ('joint' or 'coupling') and the surname of the Italian engineer who designed and patented the first flex disc, Antonio Boschi (b1896-d1988).[1] He later founded GIUBO SpA, a company solely dedicated to manufacturing flex discs


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

CostcoPizza said:


> Wiki knows:


Nice.

I did know, however, that Ate is a contraction named after Alfred Teeves.


----------



## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

Can anyone explain Mazda's love affair with rust?

Mazda 6s May Face Recall Over Corrosion-Related Steering Failures


----------



## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

g-man_ae said:


> Can anyone explain Mazda's love affair with rust?
> 
> Mazda 6s May Face Recall Over Corrosion-Related Steering Failures


Skyactive means the car is actively lightening itself over time.


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## Dash27 (Jun 21, 2010)

Rust actually adds weight, kinda counter intuitive, but i remember hearing that a few times.

Why is there no non-lux brand SUV equivalent of the V6 or Turbo sedans? Like the Accord and Camry, Optima etc etc... but you can't get a CRV, RAV or CX-5 with any power.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

Dash27 said:


> Rust actually adds weight, kinda counter intuitive, but i remember hearing that a few times.
> 
> Why is there no non-lux brand SUV equivalent of the V6 or Turbo sedans? Like the Accord and Camry, Optima etc etc... but you can't get a CRV, RAV or CX-5 with any power.


The SX trim on Kia's is their highest output engine and Hyundai has a similar trimline.


----------



## Dash27 (Jun 21, 2010)

I... did not know that. And ironically have an Optima in turbo SX trim. 

Well the CX5 and others should follow suit.


----------



## Brett92 (Nov 20, 2002)

This is semi-car related (golf car actually - Club Car), but I have 3 lug nuts that have seized themselves to the stud. On top of that, the stud has broken loose from the back, so when putting a socket on the lug the whole nut/stud spins.

1. Generally, why would this happen? I had 2 of the lugs off less than a month ago. They weren't cross threaded (at least it didn't feel that way when I last installed them). I did slightly over torque them (I think book calls for around 55-60 ft lbs, and I did 75).

2. I ordered new studs and lugs. I tried just spinning one of the lugs on to the new stud while it's in my hand. It starts to get tight not even halfway into the nut's threads (if that makes sense). Seemed a little early to hit resistance, but then again this was doing it by hand. Is that normal?

Thanks


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

Brett92 said:


> This is semi-car related (golf car actually - Club Car), but I have 3 lug nuts that have seized themselves to the stud. On top of that, the stud has broken loose from the back, so when putting a socket on the lug the whole nut/stud spins.
> 
> 1. Generally, why would this happen? I had 2 of the lugs off less than a month ago. They weren't cross threaded (at least it didn't feel that way when I last installed them). I did slightly over torque them (I think book calls for around 55-60 ft lbs, and I did 75).
> 
> ...


It sounds like their quality control is lacking. 

The threads should work smoothly all the way down so that the torque reading is correct, since the goal isn't a nut that is tight, but rather a clamping force of the stud/nut as an assembly and that is thrown off by torque applied to bad threads. (I hope I'm clear on conveying what I mean. I am in my head!) 

If you can't get replacement parts that are better and the nut is completely on the threaded part of the stud before it gets tight that means the stud doesn't have good threads all the way down. I'd get a die and cut the threads properly if you don't have time to get one that is actually a good part. If the nut isn't quite all the way on before it gets tight then try flipping it over so that the other side of the nut starts first. That should tell you for sure whether it's the nut or stud.

Oh, and don't forget that a die doesn't cut all the way down, it is made to cut into a non-threaded stud, so you may need a specific kind of die to account for that. You may be able to flip it over, too. With a tap going into a drilled hole you need what's called a "bottoming tap" so that complete threads are cut all the way down. It's designed to be used after the regular tap has cut _most_ of the threads. :beer:

I hate bad parts!


----------



## Avmbroncos (Jun 14, 2018)

Hey I have a no start issue. 06 vw passat 2.0t fsi. Codes only.showing p2400 and p0100. I've replacedone crank and camshaft position sensors. Mass airflow sensor. There was another code which was for camshaft but it's gone. I'm getting gas to the hpfp but I haven't had the money to replace it. I'm trying not to go that route unless I have to. But I just replaced the purge valve. The old one was bad but it didnt help fix anything. Any advice


----------



## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

Avmbroncos said:


> Hey I have a no start issue. 06 vw passat 2.0t fsi. Codes only.showing p2400 and p0100. I've replacedone crank and camshaft position sensors. Mass airflow sensor. There was another code which was for camshaft but it's gone. I'm getting gas to the hpfp but I haven't had the money to replace it. I'm trying not to go that route unless I have to. But I just replaced the purge valve. The old one was bad but it didnt help fix anything. Any advice


 Check wiring. Check for (possibly quote large) intake leak. 

The evap malfunction won't keep it from starting. The MAF malfunction most certainly will.


----------



## Avmbroncos (Jun 14, 2018)

I can't find any wiring issues. No cuts all the connectors are clean. You think it's possible that the ecm is bad?








cuppie said:


> Avmbroncos said:
> 
> 
> > Hey I have a no start issue. 06 vw passat 2.0t fsi. Codes only.showing p2400 and p0100. I've replacedone crank and camshaft position sensors. Mass airflow sensor. There was another code which was for camshaft but it's gone. I'm getting gas to the hpfp but I haven't had the money to replace it. I'm trying not to go that route unless I have to. But I just replaced the purge valve. The old one was bad but it didnt help fix anything. Any advice
> ...


----------



## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

Intake leaks? 

Highly unlikely that the ECU is faulty - they're quite robust. 

Also, suggest that you start a thread in the B6 forum here. TCL (where you are) isn't exactly technical support. :laugh:


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

Avmbroncos said:


> I can't find any wiring issues. No cuts all the connectors are clean. You think it's possible that the ecm is bad?


Possible. 

It's also possible it's something as simple as a bad ground somewhere. I wouldn't go throwing parts at it until the cheap and easy stuff is fully checked. Bad grounds (and even blown fuses) do some crazy things, as do bad batteries/battery connections. It may be enough to crank the car, but the ground/battery/connections could lose enough voltage that the ECM doesn't have enough power to do everything it's supposed to.


----------



## Avmbroncos (Jun 14, 2018)

Well I double checked the wiring. On the driver side of the block there's is a round flat peice that bis held on by like 4 or 5 torque bits and it was leaking oil slowly into the wiring harness right beneath it. 







Air and water do mix said:


> Avmbroncos said:
> 
> 
> > I can't find any wiring issues. No cuts all the connectors are clean. You think it's possible that the ecm is bad?
> ...


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

Avmbroncos said:


> Well I double checked the wiring. On the driver side of the block there's is a round flat peice that bis held on by like 4 or 5 torque bits and it was leaking oil slowly into the wiring harness right beneath it.


Let us know how it goes! :beer:


----------



## VWVan (Feb 17, 2000)

Why does my AC make this sorta dying horn sound when its hot out? Heat soak or something? It works fine, but I guess from being hot out its working a lot harder making this odd noise?


----------



## bnkrpt311 (Apr 22, 2010)

I'm going to look at a car tonight with a junk engine. I'm 99% sure I'm buying it. What do I do? Hand over the money, get the title and keys, and then leave it until I can get it home? I'm having one of the local towing companies pick it up but it probably won't be until tomorrow.

FWIW, the money =$1k.


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

VWVan said:


> Why does my AC make this sorta dying horn sound when its hot out? Heat soak or something? It works fine, but I guess from being hot out its working a lot harder making this odd noise?


Once or constant? Could be the pump going out.


----------



## VWVan (Feb 17, 2000)

Usually once, maybe when starting, shutting down, or the odd time while driving. Not constantly doing it.


----------



## Brett92 (Nov 20, 2002)

Air and water do mix said:


> It sounds like their quality control is lacking.
> 
> The threads should work smoothly all the way down so that the torque reading is correct, since the goal isn't a nut that is tight, but rather a clamping force of the stud/nut as an assembly and that is thrown off by torque applied to bad threads. (I hope I'm clear on conveying what I mean. I am in my head!)


Wow, thanks for the informative answer (i only quoted part of it to make my post shorter). :beer::beer::beer::beer: I emailed the guy I purchased the stud from. Unfortunately, I don't have any experience with die sets. I need to try a different lug too - the 4 I tested are new as well, so it's possible they're duds. Yeah bad parts suck. :thumbdown:


----------



## Silly_me (Jul 26, 1999)

VWVan said:


> Usually once, maybe when starting, shutting down, or the odd time while driving. Not constantly doing it.


compressor bearing giving up the ghost?


----------



## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

VWVan said:


> Why does my AC make this sorta dying horn sound when its hot out? Heat soak or something? It works fine, but I guess from being hot out its working a lot harder making this odd noise?


My 2000 Volvo did a similar thing. AC worked amazing, like the best AC I ever had in a large car, so I just ignored it.


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## VWVan (Feb 17, 2000)

The AC works fine, nice and cold. Just that odd noise when its hot out. I'll just keep going till something happens:laugh:


----------



## Avmbroncos (Jun 14, 2018)

So I'm cleaning the wires off and noticed only one wire that seems to be a power wire. And the other seems to go towards the throttle body and another big connector something with the intake manifold or something In that area. Anyway it's 2 red and white wires. They both join to what looks like some kind of fusible link possible I'll upload pictures in a few. 





Air and water do mix said:


> Avmbroncos said:
> 
> 
> > Well I double checked the wiring. On the driver side of the block there's is a round flat peice that bis held on by like 4 or 5 torque bits and it was leaking oil slowly into the wiring harness right beneath it.
> ...


----------



## Avmbroncos (Jun 14, 2018)

So I checked the rest of the of the harness. I've cleaned the harness section that had oil on it. Nothing else has any looseness or any cuts in the wires. I'm stumped. Only codes is the mass airflow circuit a fault. 






Avmbroncos said:


> So I'm cleaning the wires off and noticed only one wire that seems to be a power wire. And the other seems to go towards the throttle body and another big connector something with the intake manifold or something In that area. Anyway it's 2 red and white wires. They both join to what looks like some kind of fusible link possible I'll upload pictures in a few.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

Discovered these two early (c.1963) Beach Boys hits, each one raises a question:








> Door handles are off but you know i'll never miss 'em
> They open when i want with the "cellunoid" system


Does "cellunoid" mean "solenoid," and does this in turn mean power door locks? How does this help if there are no door handles?








> Everything is chrome, man, even my jack


I assume this is hyperbole - a chromed jack in the spare tire kit


----------



## Seabird (Feb 8, 2002)

g-man_ae said:


> Discovered these two early (c.1963) Beach Boys hits, each one raises a question:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I assume it’s like when people were “shaving” the handles back ten, fifteen years ago. They’d pop the door open with some electrical mechanism.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

g-man_ae said:


> Discovered these two early (c.1963) Beach Boys hits, each one raises a question:
> 
> Does "cellunoid" mean "solenoid," and does this in turn mean power door locks? How does this help if there are no door handles?
> :


It's a door popper

https://youtu.be/ecdQEx2fAP0


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## Zunflower (Jun 5, 2013)

Dash27 said:


> Why is there no non-lux brand SUV equivalent of the V6 or Turbo sedans? Like the Accord and Camry, Optima etc etc... but you can't get a CRV, RAV or CX-5 with any power.


Rumors are the Turbo four from the Mazda 6 might be going into the CX-5, but I wasn't gonna hold my breath to wait.


Is tire dressing (wet shine whatever) good or bad for tires?


----------



## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

I've always known that if you need to replace a tire that you should replace both if there's been significant wear, but I realized I've never actually been told the dangers of not replacing both.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Asymmetric grip would be my guess. I'd only worry if there is significant difference in wear.


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

Dravenport said:


> I've always known that if you need to replace a tire that you should replace both if there's been significant wear, but I realized I've never actually been told the dangers of not replacing both.


Different levels of traction side-to-side can cause unwanted drama in emergency situations.
Mechanically, it puts extra wear on differentials.
Electrically, it confuses wheel speed sensors that feed stability nannies.


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## Strange Mud (Oct 20, 2017)

i don't think tire shine is either good or bad unless you get it on the tread then there can be real bad traction issues. I occasionally use Aerospace 303 on the sidewalls. very low grade shine more of a cleaner


----------



## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

How does one (a car guy*) truly determine to sell a car?

Compare to that which replaces it? Focus on the main purpose of the sale?


----------



## dieselraver (Nov 11, 2007)

wasnt there a mandatory "spare tire or run flat" clause for car manufacturers? how come they can sell cars with no run flats and no spare/donuts in the trunk?

i have a fix a flat "sealer kit" which does absolutely nothing if I tear the sidewall or get a gash in my tire. 

what gives?!


----------



## NeverEnoughCars (Aug 2, 2013)

dieselraver said:


> wasnt there a mandatory "spare tire or run flat" clause for car manufacturers? how come they can sell cars with no run flats and no spare/donuts in the trunk?
> 
> i have a fix a flat "sealer kit" which does absolutely nothing if I tear the sidewall or get a gash in my tire.
> 
> what gives?!


99% of people in 1st world countries won't change their own tire. So what even bother.


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

TooFitToQuit said:


> How does one (a car guy*) truly determine to sell a car?
> 
> Compare to that which replaces it? Focus on the main purpose of the sale?


No one reason.

Amongst the reasons: price, utility, age, headache, comfort, looks, features.

When I had an xB, I was fine driving it as a single guy. But then I needed something that wouldn't kill my passengers, or at the very best, leave them (or me) in a vegetative state with years of forthcoming rehab. So I got the Sportage, a bit more solid construction. Then that became too small for camping trips. It was fine as a commuter and run-about, but it was packed to the gills on vacation. So after one camp trip, we got home, I unloaded it, cleaned it out, and drove it down to the car lot and traded it in on an Explorer.


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

TooFitToQuit said:


> How does one (a car guy*) truly determine to sell a car?
> 
> Compare to that which replaces it? Focus on the main purpose of the sale?


The car you have is old, boring, a piece of ****, basically any reason that you no longer can stand owning it. Maybe you need more room so you get something bigger, maybe you are tired of driving a barge so you get something smaller. I got the XT because of being tired of the slow Forester, then I imported a clip from Hong Kong because the normal way of fixing a blown turbo Subaru was "too easy." 

Sometimes it practical, sometimes you want a challenge, sometimes you want a car that has cam lope like boulders in a dumpster.


----------



## Strange Mud (Oct 20, 2017)

dieselraver said:


> wasnt there a mandatory "spare tire or run flat" clause for car manufacturers? how come they can sell cars with no run flats and no spare/donuts in the trunk?
> 
> i have a fix a flat "sealer kit" which does absolutely nothing if I tear the sidewall or get a gash in my tire.
> 
> what gives?!


$ and MPG (weight)....consider a plug kit. When I had a car like that I would throw a snow/summer tire in trunk if I was going more than 75-100 miles from home


----------



## dieselraver (Nov 11, 2007)

Strange Mud said:


> $ and MPG (weight)....consider a plug kit. When I had a car like that I would throw a snow/summer tire in trunk if I was going more than 75-100 miles from home


I have! plug kit, the awl looking tool, gloves, a tire iron, no jack though... car doesn't come with one!  I also have 2 industrial sized (for truck tires) cans of slime and a compressor.


----------



## Strange Mud (Oct 20, 2017)

reminder....tire shops HATE slime, it doesn't clean easily.....and even the sensor safe stuff can mess up TPMS sensors


----------



## burnthesheep (May 4, 2012)

Being a bicycle nut, and a former car nut.........

How is it that the depreciation or price floor for a functional used car seems SO cheap compared to a used and functional bicycle?

I mean, you can find crappy 10 year old bikes for sale for like $50 still sometimes. You can get a running car for $500.

You'd think the car would bottom out around $3000 or so. Or the bike get down to around $15 or something. 

Excluding outliers on either end, of course.


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## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

I recall 1980s imports having an Overdrive button. I thought this was only for automatics, to lock out the top gear. How did this work on a manual?



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Overdrive is a super tall gear for highway cruising economy. Idk how it works on automatics but on manuals it’s just a super tall 5th gear to drop the RPMs. Couldn’t accelerate with it really


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## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

thegave said:


> Overdrive is a super tall gear for highway cruising economy. Idk how it works on automatics but on manuals it’s just a super tall 5th gear to drop the RPMs. Couldn’t accelerate with it really


In the Volvo video, it’s a push-button Overdrive, but in a manual car. I can see how this works on automatics - it’s just keeping the tranny from shifting into final gear - but in a manual  



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

g-man_ae said:


> In the Volvo video, it’s a push-button Overdrive, but in a manual car. I can see how this works on automatics - it’s just keeping the tranny from shifting into final gear - but in a manual
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


That would be under drive. The transmission kicking down to a lower gear is for acceleration when passing or just getting up to speed. Overdrive is the polar opposite of that. 

Overdrive is for cruising at a lower RPM than final drive.

They were used on manuals for decades before any automatic had them. Most automatics had 2 or maybe three speeds. That was back when sports cars had 4 on the floor. Most family cars with manuals had 3 on the tree. Overdrive was an option. 

You could even buy aftermarket electric overdrive units that went between your transmission and the rear end (for RWD only). Those could be used on manuals or automatics. The Volvo probably had factory electric overdrive. 

In the truck world you could get two speed rear axles. Farm trucks had them as far back as 1928. (Google "International Six-Speed Special".) The "normal" gears were great for chugging along on the farm but you pressed a button and the rear axle went into high and you could drive on roads.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

The reason sports cars had 4 on the floor (four speed manual transmission with a floor shifter) when sedans only had 3 speeds was not for economy. It was for faster acceleration and better matching of gears to engine speed.

Early automatics didn't need more than two speeds to match the 3 speed manual sedans. 

That's the same reason sporty cars got 5 speed manual transmissions when regular econoboxes had 4 speeds. Econoboxes started getting 4 speeds because they didn't have the torque to handle tall gears. (They needed to build up momentum to handle the upper gears.)

Later on some econoboxes got 5 speeds with a really tall Overdrive 5th speed as thegave mentioned. 

The VW 16V had a sporting 5 speed with properly spaced gears, but some swapped out the final drive for a taller gear from other VW 020 transmissions so they could have an overdrive 5th gear for highway cruising. 

Later still VW and others came out with 6 speed manual transmissions and I think the top 2 gears were overdrive gears. You could buy a Quaife six speed kit to convert your VW 020 5 speed to a 6 speed. 

Some time later, automatics started getting crazy with more gears. I don't even know how many automatic gears is "normal" now, eight?


----------



## ldmf (Dec 29, 2017)

Terminology question. I know that when you update a classic car with modern equipment it is referred to as a Resto-Mod. Suspension, engine, brakes, lighting....

But what do you call when you do it the other way around. Take a 2015 Camaro an make it look like a 69. Just the exterior modification, so you get the classic look9or close to it) with the modern day convenience, performance and reliability.

I have seen cars that have been modified this way but am unsure of the term used to describe them. It would be helpful if I decided to search for one of these vehicles, cause we all know it is way cheaper to buy a big project completed them to do it yourself.

Thanks in advance.

LDMF


----------



## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

Backdated.


----------



## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

ldmf said:


> Terminology question. I know that when you update a classic car with modern equipment it is referred to as a Resto-Mod. Suspension, engine, brakes, lighting....
> 
> But what do you call when you do it the other way around. Take a 2015 Camaro an make it look like a 69. Just the exterior modification, so you get the classic look9or close to it) with the modern day convenience, performance and reliability.
> 
> ...


Either it's a restoration or it's a modified car. There's nothing in-between.


----------



## ldmf (Dec 29, 2017)

Most definitely a Modified car is what I am looking for in my searches. 

But without a good search criteria, it becomes a rather ineffective in finding those types of vehicles.


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## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

g-man_ae said:


> In the Volvo video, it’s a push-button Overdrive, but in a manual car. I can see how this works on automatics - it’s just keeping the tranny from shifting into final gear - but in a manual
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Some cars, mostly British cars from the 50's, 60's & 70's (MGB are the most common) have an overdrive box after the 4-speed manual. It's another 2-speed transmission that's either 1:1 direct drive or an overdrive around 0.85 or so. Once you're cruising in 4th you hit the overdrive switch and the overdrive box decouples the 1:1 ratio and switches to the overdrive ratio. The overdrive is shifted by oil pressure from an internal oil pump and activated electrically.
These can't be used in lower gears because of torque limitations so there is usually a limit switch that prevents the overdrive function in first through 3rd. There's a wide open throttle switch that drops out of overdrive when full power is needed. They also should not be used in reverse or they can be damaged.
Once 5-speed manuals became more common the overdrive units disappeared.


----------



## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

g-man_ae said:


> In the Volvo video, it’s a push-button Overdrive, but in a manual car. I can see how this works on automatics - it’s just keeping the tranny from shifting into final gear - but in a manual
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


https://jalopnik.com/the-chevrolet-corvette-c4s-doug-nash-4-3-manual-transmi-1825119474


----------



## Sepp (Dec 10, 2002)

ldmf said:


> Terminology question. I know that when you update a classic car with modern equipment it is referred to as a Resto-Mod. Suspension, engine, brakes, lighting....
> 
> But what do you call when you do it the other way around. Take a 2015 Camaro an make it look like a 69. Just the exterior modification, so you get the classic look9or close to it) with the modern day convenience, performance and reliability.
> 
> ...


I would use the term retromod.
It's very common, and I wouldn't call it a restoration..as one is not restoring the car back to original specs.


----------



## Rossignol (Dec 21, 2013)

Hello, I hope this is not against the forum rules, but do you know any Spanish-language forums like TCL or car news websites? I want to learn Spanish and immersion is the best way for me.


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## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

Not much has changed in 70 years, has it?


----------



## NeverEnoughCars (Aug 2, 2013)

Rossignol said:


> Hello, I hope this is not against the forum rules, but do you know any Spanish-language forums like TCL or car news websites? I want to learn Spanish and immersion is the best way for me.


Have google load the page in spanish?


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

NeverEnoughCars said:


> Have google load the page in spanish?


Nah, those translations are terrible.


----------



## Gear_Cruncher (Mar 28, 2013)

Why is it that many Japanese cars last easily for 200+ miles before having anything major to them (clutch, struts, CV joints, starters ect...) while Detroit and some German offerings are failing before or by 100K miles? Are they not interested in making a quality product, I mean obviously it can be done.  I'm thinking they engineer stuff to fail just out of warranty so the dealers can make money on repairs.

I'm basing this on my own personal experience with cars I've owned and driven. 

02 Acura -- 216K miles, fails= 0
13 GTI -- 20K miles, fails = 2
94 Chevy pickup, 74K fails = 10+


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Can you "restomod" a newish car? My TT is only 15 years old but has 152k, a broken timing belt, and pile of stuff to build an engine and suspension, but it feels too new.


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## clutchrider (Dec 11, 2010)

Gear_Cruncher said:


> Why is it that many Japanese cars last easily for 200+ miles before having anything major to them (clutch, struts, CV joints, starters ect...) while Detroit and some German offerings are failing before or by 100K miles? Are they not interested in making a quality product, I mean obviously it can be done.  I'm thinking they engineer stuff to fail just out of warranty so the dealers can make money on repairs.
> 
> I'm basing this on my own personal experience with cars I've owned and driven.
> 
> ...


I could echo this, my two Saturn's needed radiators, thermos, clutch, etc. in their lifetime of just under and just over 100k. Then my Civic and Matrix were trouble free for the most part. The Matrix more so because that went 163k before I sold it with nothing but tires, brakes, oil, and plugs. now my 2012 GLI with 96k is on it's 4th intake manifold, HPFP, part of the cooling system (random plastic pipe snapping in the driveway), PCV valve, and now possibly a rear wheel bearing. More nuissance than stranded on the road but still in comparison to my other cars it's been annoying.


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## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

Gear_Cruncher said:


> Why is it that many Japanese cars last easily for 200+ miles before having anything major to them (clutch, struts, CV joints, starters ect...) while Detroit and some German offerings are failing before or by 100K miles? Are they not interested in making a quality product, I mean obviously it can be done.  I'm thinking they engineer stuff to fail just out of warranty so the dealers can make money on repairs.
> 
> I'm basing this on my own personal experience with cars I've owned and driven.
> 
> ...


Even this is changing. Honda in the 90's/early 2000's the stuff just lasted forever, 200k on front end suspension components and what not. Unfortunately they are not like that anymore and more in line with everything else.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

l88m22vette said:


> Can you "restomod" a newish car? My TT is only 15 years old but has 152k, a broken timing belt, and pile of stuff to build an engine and suspension, but it feels too new.


I guess it's just a matter of semantics regarding the term. You could tear down and rebuild your TT to factory specs, and call it a restoration. Or you could tear down and rebuild everything to like-new status, but make any modifications you want and call it a restomod. However, while a classic car from the lap-belt days is rebuilt and refreshed with modern alloys, low pro tires, 4-pot Brembos and sat-nav seems like a 21st century update, those sorts of upgrades won't seem particularly edgy or surprising on a 2003 car.


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

Ideal oil for summertime in a G35x ?? Synthetic I assume ??


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

so i went to a drag strip with my 36 year old motorcycle and now it's done. It won't start anymore because it keeps draining the battery. More importantly, when I push-started it, it would run for a little while, and then die if I didn't keep it at 2,000 rpm or more. It doesn't have an alternator, rather a stator (or dynamo?), so I'm pretty sure that's done and needs to be replaced...but...isn't that just a set pf spinning magnets? How does that wear out? Corrosion? Why did it coincide with me push it do its limits at the drag strip? Could I have worn it out in some way? Do I have to replace it or can I clean it up?

it's been hinting symptoms of this for a while i think, but i drag race it (just once!) and now it won't run on its own? damn.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

I always feel like I'm ready to replace tires when they start looking like this. 

These are the OEM ContiProContacts that came on my wife's car - I have just been whelmed with their performance and am a little surprised at the rapid wear given my wife's gentle driving style and the "500" treadwear rating. 

These have 26k miles on them -- would you replace now or wait a little longer?


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## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

That's absurd wear for 26k miles. I would contact them as Continental usually has an XXk mile warranty on their tires.


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## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

DonPatrizio said:


> That's absurd wear for 26k miles. I would contact them as Continental usually has an XXk mile warranty on their tires.


Not on OEM tires. No treadwear warranty.

To the OP, the "500" is a completely arbitrary number. Only relates to products within the company, and even then really aren't anything official. It really means nothing. If you're in Texas and don't see much rain this time of year, I'd wait. Probably some good Black Friday deals. Those wear bars indicate actual end of treadlife and you're not there yet.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

I know about the relativity; I guess I was just surprised at the rapid wear given the highish number and easy driving. I had kind of been thinking about trying the summer ContiPremiumContact 2 on my Yaris whenever its summer Michelins wear out (have almost 30k on them and they are about half as worn as the Corolla's tires despite a much more, ah, spirited driving style). But the summer Contis only have a 280 treadwear rating; I would be upset if I only got 15k out of them, you know? These looked pretty aggressive for a 175/65-15 but now I probably won't try them: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...del=ContiPremiumContact+2&partnum=765HR5CPRE2

It's been super hot here, but we actually just started the rainy season and all of the asphalt roads are super slick and greasy. I was about to go out and throw it around some corners and do a few hard stops to see if I could wait until the fall, but as "luck" would have it, I was just out in the garage and spotted one almost out of air (nail in it), so I think I'm just going to go down to Costco tomorrow and order a set of these while they are doing the free installation promo since we just used up the last of the free maintenance. These are probably a little overkill for a Corolla but $350 installed seems like a deal, they have great wet traction and it would get me back to having free rotations/road hazard/etc.


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## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

Gear_Cruncher said:


> Why is it that many Japanese cars last easily for 200+ miles before having anything major to them (clutch, struts, CV joints, starters ect...) while Detroit and some German offerings are failing before or by 100K miles? Are they not interested in making a quality product, I mean obviously it can be done.  I'm thinking they engineer stuff to fail just out of warranty so the dealers can make money on repairs.
> 
> I'm basing this on my own personal experience with cars I've owned and driven.
> 
> ...


Anecdotal evidence is both anecdotal and meaningless.


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## Strange Mud (Oct 20, 2017)

adrew said:


> I always feel like I'm ready to replace tires when they start looking like this.
> 
> These are the OEM ContiProContacts that came on my wife's car - I have just been whelmed with their performance and am a little surprised at the rapid wear given my wife's gentle driving style and the "500" treadwear rating.
> 
> These have 26k miles on them -- would you replace now or wait a little longer?


 my car I would drive them....Mrs Mud's car would get them replaced soon.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

Gear_Cruncher said:


> Why is it that many Japanese cars last easily for 200+ miles before having anything major to them (clutch, struts, CV joints, starters ect...) while Detroit and some German offerings are failing before or by 100K miles? Are they not interested in making a quality product, I mean obviously it can be done.  I'm thinking they engineer stuff to fail just out of warranty so the dealers can make money on repairs.
> 
> I'm basing this on my own personal experience with cars I've owned and driven.
> 
> ...


I'd say it depends on the car. VW is known for cheaping out on some parts (window regulators) but other parts are very high quality (ohhh soft touch). I believe cutting edge tech is going to have growing pains and teething issues and possibly reliability issues, but lesser models with more legacy technology will probably be more robust: BMW 335i vs Jetta 2.5 for examples

And GM has never been a brand I associate with quality or reliability.


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## QUIRKiT (Dec 19, 2006)

worth_fixing said:


> so i went to a drag strip with my 36 year old motorcycle and now it's done. It won't start anymore because it keeps draining the battery. More importantly, when I push-started it, it would run for a little while, and then die if I didn't keep it at 2,000 rpm or more. It doesn't have an alternator, rather a stator (or dynamo?), so I'm pretty sure that's done and needs to be replaced...but...isn't that just a set pf spinning magnets? How does that wear out? Corrosion? Why did it coincide with me push it do its limits at the drag strip? Could I have worn it out in some way? Do I have to replace it or can I clean it up?
> 
> it's been hinting symptoms of this for a while i think, but i drag race it (just once!) and now it won't run on its own? damn.


You're right in that there is a rotor that spins inside the stator, but the stator itself is actually just the hoop shaped copper wire winding. The rotor has magnets on it that spins and creates a magnetic field, which then passes through the copper stator wires and creates electrical current, which is then converted to DC in the rectifier. 

The stator wears out because the current flow generates heat and eventually breaks down the copper wiring, oil and vibration also doesn't help. All of those can create shorts and that's what kills a stator -- so if it had been exhibiting the symptoms of slowly dying and then ran it at the strip (generating more heat), you probably just created a large enough short to kill it finally.

Super easy repair btw.


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## Samson (Dec 2, 1999)

adrew said:


> I always feel like I'm ready to replace tires when they start looking like this.
> 
> These are the OEM ContiProContacts that came on my wife's car - I have just been whelmed with their performance and am a little surprised at the rapid wear given my wife's gentle driving style and the "500" treadwear rating.
> 
> These have 26k miles on them -- would you replace now or wait a little longer?


For how little tires cost and how important they are, I'd just replace them.

For what it's worth, the 800 treadwear/90k mile warranty Conti TrueContacts on our old Tucson were about down to the bars after 40k (pretty much all easy highway driving, regular rotation, pressures maintained, etc). From my experience, treadwear ratings and warranties basically mean nothing when it comes to how long a tire will last. Sometimes it's close to reality and sometimes it's not even in the same ballpark. I've had 220 treadwear tires last seemingly forever, and 500 treadwear tires done after 20k.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Is there any particular reason not to leave cruise control on? After a long highway drive (using cruise) in my Mazda5, I'll "cancel" the cruising speed either by my pressing the cancel button, or simply touching the brakes, but the "Cruise On" light stays lit, letting me know that I can "Set" the cruise speed any time I want, unless I actively turn it off.

Sometimes while driving around town, I'll notice the "Cruise On" light is still lit, so I shut it off. Any reason I should be careful to shut it off sooner, or does it matter?


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

It really doesn't matter. Barring a malfunction of the 'resume' button (this assuming that you've used the cruise in that drive cycle, and that your 'set' speed was significantly higher than your current speed), what's it matter?  

FYI: I've had my Passat for nearly 3 years. The switch has been in the 'on' position for the entire time.


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## Strange Mud (Oct 20, 2017)

MrMook said:


> Is there any particular reason not to leave cruise control on? After a long highway drive (using cruise) in my Mazda5, I'll "cancel" the cruising speed either by my pressing the cancel button, or simply touching the brakes, but the "Cruise On" light stays lit, letting me know that I can "Set" the cruise speed any time I want, unless I actively turn it off.
> 
> Sometimes while driving around town, I'll notice the "Cruise On" light is still lit, so I shut it off. Any reason I should be careful to shut it off sooner, or does it matter?


I would shut it off under an abundance of caution.......paranoia I know.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

When is a good time to change brake pads? I have historically just changed them whenever they "look" low, but having looked at my old pads recently they seem to have at least 3-4mm of friction material left, so I wonder if I'm leaving money on the table. Is it okay to just wait until the little screeching metal tab actually touches the rotor?


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

thegave said:


> When is a good time to change brake pads? I have historically just changed them whenever they "look" low, but having looked at my old pads recently they seem to have at least 3-4mm of friction material left, so I wonder if I'm leaving money on the table. Is it okay to just wait until the little screeching metal tab actually touches the rotor?


For a street driven car, I'll let them go to the wear clips. Especially if the pads last 50-60k miles... you're going to get another 10-15k out of that 4mm of pad. 
Also make sure that all the pads have clips. I've had sets where only one pad will have the clips, which makes the bad assumption that all pads wear at the same rate.
As they get thin, I inspect them at more regular intervals.


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

MrMook said:


> Is there any particular reason not to leave cruise control on? After a long highway drive (using cruise) in my Mazda5, I'll "cancel" the cruising speed either by my pressing the cancel button, or simply touching the brakes, but the "Cruise On" light stays lit, letting me know that I can "Set" the cruise speed any time I want, unless I actively turn it off.
> 
> Sometimes while driving around town, I'll notice the "Cruise On" light is still lit, so I shut it off. Any reason I should be careful to shut it off sooner, or does it matter?





cuppie said:


> It really doesn't matter. Barring a malfunction of the 'resume' button (this assuming that you've used the cruise in that drive cycle, and that your 'set' speed was significantly higher than your current speed), what's it matter?
> 
> FYI: I've had my Passat for nearly 3 years. The switch has been in the 'on' position for the entire time.


The cruise control switch has been "on" in my GTI since 2001 through years of road trips, track days, inclement weather, crashes and rebuilds, etc. I just hit "set" when I want to use it and "cancel" or tap the brakes when I don't. My wife's Mazda has a light that comes on when the switch is on (activated or not), so I keep it off unless I'm using it. It's no different than the GTI, it just bugs me if it's on and I'm not using it.


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## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

How do factory LED headlights deal with heat? Aftermarket bulbs for factory halogens either have noisy fans that fail, or heat sinks that don't work (causing the bulb to fail).



















Whatever the factory does, it has to last at least as long as the warranty, e.g. 36 months / 36,000 miles


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## Samson (Dec 2, 1999)

^ I'm also curious. Apparently, the projector lens/housing/whatever is the same between the halogen and LED version of the Rav4 headlights (so says the internet, anyway). The halogens are awful, and for $50, I was thinking about trying LED bulbs like these, which seem to be generally well liked: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BRQTP8V/

But descriptions like this give me pause:

_Longer lifespan and persistence: It is supposedly won’t fade or overheat even after long time lighting up unlike other cheap items. The newest intelligent technology and stronger cooling fan [email protected] keep the led bulbs won’t be dim._​
The manufacturer says that it "supposedly" won't do something. That's not reassuring, and I'd prefer something without an electric fan that'll probably fail.

More info:
https://sylvania-headlights.com/fan-vs-fanless-led-headlights.html


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

I would ask TooFitToQuit to see what he recommends for your application. From what I've read, using those types of drop-in LED bulbs in a halogen housing typically results in a lot of glare, hot spots and undefined cut-offs. I looked on eBay and the backs of the housings is different between the LED and halogen models (presumably for power and for some logic for the high beam shutters) -- but is it possible to put the OEM LED headlight assemblies without too much hackery? If so, it is worth it - the Koito Bi-LEDs in our Corolla are great (I believe the same ones are used on the upper trims of the RAV4).

If my Google image searching is correct, I think these are the Koito modules in our car. 
*​*


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

I don't know about other carmakers, but I can give BMW as an example: Combination of passive (heatsinks) and active (fan) cooling. 
The 'heat problem' with LEDs isn't that they generate more heat than, say, an incandescent light (they don't); rather, it's that they can't radiate the heat as effectively. So, say, your typical BMW full-LED headlight will have a couple of heatsinks on its exterior (to help cool the driver modules and/or bolt-on LED modules), and one or two internal fans (to circulate air.)


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## Samson (Dec 2, 1999)

adrew said:


> I would ask TooFitToQuit to see what he recommends for your application. From what I've read, using those types of drop-in LED bulbs in a halogen housing typically results in a lot of glare, hot spots and undefined cut-offs. I looked on eBay and the backs of the housings is different between the LED and halogen models (presumably for power and for some logic for the high beam shutters) -- but is it possible to put the OEM LED headlight assemblies without too much hackery? If so, it is worth it - the Koito Bi-LEDs in our Corolla are great (I believe the same ones are used on the upper trims of the RAV4).
> 
> If my Google image searching is correct, I think these are the Koito modules in our car.
> *​*


Yeah, glare was another worry. People say that there is none, but then again, people say that about everything. I've yet to see an LED headlight that doesn't have glare, and even the new Toyotas aren't great. It's much better than the earlier LEDs in the Corollas though. 

In the IIHS LED vs. halogen test, they note glare with the LEDs. The light performance isn't amazing... but it's better than the halogens:
http://www.iihs.org/iihs/ratings/vehicle/v/toyota/rav4-4-door-suv

Thanks for the info on the Koito LEDs. It looks like the entire LED headlight assembly is available for ~$450/side new from Toyota. I'm not sure it's worth it, and I don't know if it's plug-and-play. 

My initial thought was to just get better halogen bulbs (HIR 2?), but I haven't looked into that much yet.


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

g-man_ae said:


> How do factory LED headlights deal with heat? Aftermarket bulbs for factory halogens either have noisy fans that fail, or heat sinks that don't work (causing the bulb to fail).
> 
> https://cdn6.bigcommerce.com/s-ak60cjbo/products/4095/images/12216/cool-tone-led-lights-auto__89922.1532370482.1280.1280.pg[/mg]
> 
> ...


----------



## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

Samson said:


> Yeah, glare was another worry. People say that there is none, but then again, people say that about everything. I've yet to see an LED headlight that doesn't have glare, and even the new Toyotas aren't great. It's much better than the earlier LEDs in the Corollas though.
> 
> In the IIHS LED vs. halogen test, they note glare with the LEDs. The light performance isn't amazing... but it's better than the halogens:
> http://www.iihs.org/iihs/ratings/vehicle/v/toyota/rav4-4-door-suv
> ...


Glare in the stock 9012 (HIR2) projectors with aftermarket bulbs isn't that bad. IIRC they don't have much by way of "squirrel finders" which are intentional openings in the cutoff shield to allow for light bleed above the cutoff line. This bleed illuminates street signs, trees, etc. When you add in a brighter bulb, that bleed gets annoying as hell for other drivers.

With that said, LED bulbs will be a decent increase in performance without causing other issues that a brighter HID system would. We're debuting a new bulb this week that's the best design to date over testing 40+ other designs. 

Factory Bi-LED housings may not be a direct swap. Tundras / Sequoias with OEM LED headlights require adapter harnesses for OEM halogen trucks.

The Rav4 doesn't use the Koito Bi-LED projectors, it's a Stanley unit. :beer:


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## Samson (Dec 2, 1999)

TooFitToQuit said:


> Glare in the stock 9012 (HIR2) projectors with aftermarket bulbs isn't that bad. IIRC they don't have much by way of "squirrel finders" which are intentional openings in the cutoff shield to allow for light bleed above the cutoff line. This bleed illuminates street signs, trees, etc. When you add in a brighter bulb, that bleed gets annoying as hell for other drivers.
> 
> With that said, LED bulbs will be a decent increase in performance without causing other issues that a brighter HID system would. We're debuting a new bulb this week that's the best design to date over testing 40+ other designs.
> 
> ...


Thanks. So, what are these fancy new LEDs you're coming out with? Have more info? Would you recommend LEDs vs. a "better" halogen over the OE bulb? Looking for longevity, not too much money, and not annoying for other road users.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

This is a question about the way car models "grow" from generation to generation. The notion that safety features add weight and size makes sense. You need to widen cars to add crash bars, air bags, crumple zones etc. But take a model like the Golf. It has grown over the years, sure. I mean, there's no way we could possibly fit modern safety gear in the older Golf dimensions is there?

Here's MK1, 3, and 7 Golf dimensions compared to the latest MK6 Polo. The newest (safest) Polo is nearly on spec with the MKIII Golf (though somehow even lighter).

MKI Rabbit: Wheelbase: 94.5" Length: 150" Weight: 2000lb
*MKIII Golf: Wheelbase: 97" Length: 160" Weight: 2544lb*
MKVII Golf: Wheelbase: 103" Length: 167.5" Weight: 3075lb
*MKVI POLO: Wheelbase: 100" Length: 160" Weight: 2277lb*


So if VW (or any MFR) can cram modern safety features in smaller spaces, why the constant growth in overal dimensions?


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

Samson said:


> Thanks. So, what are these fancy new LEDs you're coming out with? Have more info? Would you recommend LEDs vs. a "better" halogen over the OE bulb? Looking for longevity, not too much money, and not annoying for other road users.


An upgraded halogen bulb won't last as long as even the stock bulbs, so I generally shy away from those, even if we do sell them.

More info on the new bulbs can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YprmfcFQMgA.

:thumbup:


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

I have a clutch that has never been installed (no longer have the car) and this thing is all rusty now just from sitting on the shelf in the basement. Is it ok ? Should I clean it up to sell it or sell it as is ??


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

MrMook said:


> This is a question about the way car models "grow" from generation to generation. The notion that safety features add weight and size makes sense. You need to widen cars to add crash bars, air bags, crumple zones etc. But take a model like the Golf. It has grown over the years, sure. I mean, there's no way we could possibly fit modern safety gear in the older Golf dimensions is there?
> 
> Here's MK1, 3, and 7 Golf dimensions compared to the latest MK6 Polo. The newest (safest) Polo is nearly on spec with the MKIII Golf (though somehow even lighter).
> 
> ...


My guess is it’s the same reason every new model generation has to produce more horsepower: people want to see tangible improvements, whether it’s faster 0-60 or more leg/headroom/cargo capacity.


----------



## Samson (Dec 2, 1999)

TooFitToQuit said:


> An upgraded halogen bulb won't last as long as even the stock bulbs, so I generally shy away from those, even if we do sell them.
> 
> More info on the new bulbs can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YprmfcFQMgA.
> 
> :thumbup:


Cool - thanks for the info.


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

thegave said:


> My guess is it’s the same reason every new model generation has to produce more horsepower: people want to see tangible improvements, whether it’s faster 0-60 or more leg/headroom/cargo capacity.


this year's model has 5 more HP. and it costs $2500 more! what a bargain.

marketing is awesome. having to be the smart ones in the mass of idiots sucks.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

MrMook said:


> This is a question about the way car models "grow" from generation to generation. The notion that safety features add weight and size makes sense. You need to widen cars to add crash bars, air bags, crumple zones etc. But take a model like the Golf. It has grown over the years, sure. I mean, there's no way we could possibly fit modern safety gear in the older Golf dimensions is there?
> 
> Here's MK1, 3, and 7 Golf dimensions compared to the latest MK6 Polo. The newest (safest) Polo is nearly on spec with the MKIII Golf (though somehow even lighter).
> 
> ...


My Yaris is the size of those old cars -- 153" long, has a 99" wheelbase and weighs 2295 lbs . It has front/side/curtain airbags, anti-submarine airbags in each front seat, a driver's knee airbag and ABS/traction control/stability control. The current Yaris is the same car underneath and has been updated with auto braking, lane departure warning and auto headlights. 

I do feel you on the growth. Our Corolla is 183" long and feels like a big car to me -- 1993 Camry was 188" long.

Yaris crashes pretty well when hitting other cars...





...though the more substantial Corolla does a lot better in the small overlap


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

adrew said:


>


dummy missed the airbag. what a moron.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

GreenandChrome said:


> dummy missed the airbag. what a moron.


The platform is old (came out in '05) and wasn't designed with this kind of test in mind.


----------



## Cr4shT3st (Jan 23, 2009)

What are those little stud things I see when folks are welding up bodywork? Temporary welded studs? Magnetic whatzits? Rivets?


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

Cr4shT3st said:


> What are those little stud things I see when folks are welding up bodywork? Temporary welded studs? Magnetic whatzits? Rivets?


cleco's (kleee-coe); try aircraft assembly parts. http://www.panamericantool.com/cleco-fasteners.html

we used them to prefit race car body panels as well.


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## Cr4shT3st (Jan 23, 2009)

GreenandChrome said:


> cleco's (kleee-coe); try aircraft assembly parts. http://www.panamericantool.com/cleco-fasteners.html
> 
> we used them to prefit race car body panels as well.


Wow those are a neat solution:


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

Alright, I need to speak to a chemist.

I need to know what causes oxidation in an oxygen-deprived environment. For example, how does rust creep, or even form, in a case where steel is painted? I understand that it’s possible there were contaminants and oxides even before any protective coating was applied, but once all the oxygen is used up on that surface area, there is no more iron that can be converted into iron oxide, therefor the volume of rust should remain the same for as long as there is no more oxygen exposed to any more iron. If paint hasn’t cracked, it has a certain flexibility that literally seals its steel sheeting from any oxygen penetration.

…so how is this sheet metal bubbling from underneath the paint? The other side of the sheet metal shows no sign of any oxidation and is also coated with a rust inhibitor. The problem is definitely coming from the painted side of the sheet.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

Nobody is a rust specialist here? Gonna go try my Montreal car forums, where stainless steel falls apart like a biscuit soda.


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

worth_fixing said:


> Alright, I need to speak to a chemist.
> 
> I need to know what causes oxidation in an oxygen-deprived environment. For example, how does rust creep, or even form, in a case where steel is painted? I understand that it’s possible there were contaminants and oxides even before any protective coating was applied, but once all the oxygen is used up on that surface area, there is no more iron that can be converted into iron oxide, therefor the volume of rust should remain the same for as long as there is no more oxygen exposed to any more iron. If paint hasn’t cracked, it has a certain flexibility that literally seals its steel sheeting from any oxygen penetration.
> 
> …so how is this sheet metal bubbling from underneath the paint? The other side of the sheet metal shows no sign of any oxidation and is also coated with a rust inhibitor. The problem is definitely coming from the painted side of the sheet.


there are microscopic iron pieces that are still on the surface. some of the new paints are environmentally-friendly. which means they're water-based. 

rust can happen anywhere and everywhere. my parents built a deck at their ocean house and the railing was made of stainless steel. it had surface rust on it within the first 3 months of install. I have a rust bubble on the back of my Expedition's liftgate, which is apparently made of aluminum, according to the internets. how did it rust? iron dust in the factory embedded in the surface, and the surface wasn't prepped properly. many a Ford owners are pissed.


----------



## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

GreenandChrome said:


> there are microscopic iron pieces that are still on the surface. some of the new paints are environmentally-friendly. which means they're water-based.
> 
> rust can happen anywhere and everywhere. my parents built a deck at their ocean house and the railing was made of stainless steel. it had surface rust on it within the first 3 months of install. I have a rust bubble on the back of my Expedition's liftgate, which is apparently made of aluminum, according to the internets. how did it rust? iron dust in the factory embedded in the surface, and the surface wasn't prepped properly. many a Ford owners are pissed.


but rust only occurs with oxidation, so exposed to oxygen. If it's covered in paint, how does it continue to rust more and more? Are you telling me that there is oxygen in the paint molecules whose bonds are weaker than that of Iron, and essentially all non-ionized Iron will steal the oxygen molecules from the paint?


----------



## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

If, after dark and driving on the road, you come across a vehicle with *no* functioning brake _or_ tail lights, what do you do? I was stuck behind one such fine example of automotive safety on a 1-lane road last Winter. All I could think to do was use my high-beams to keep the other vehicle in view until one of us left the road. (Fortunately I turned off before he did, but I was white-knuckling it for several miles.)


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## col.mustard (Jul 16, 2008)

g-man_ae said:


> If, after dark and driving on the road, you come across a vehicle with *no* functioning brake _or_ tail lights, what do you do? I was stuck behind one such fine example of automotive safety on a 1-lane road last Winter. All I could think to do was use my high-beams to keep the other vehicle in view until one of us left the road. (Fortunately I turned off before he did, but I was white-knuckling it for several miles.)


agreed, blind the isht out of them from behind - if they don't care enough to have functioning lights, then i don't care about them in return. i seem to see a LOT of this here in south charlotte, does S.C. not have annual safety inspections?


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## NeverEnoughCars (Aug 2, 2013)

col.mustard said:


> agreed, blind the isht out of them from behind - if they don't care enough to have functioning lights, then i don't care about them in return. i seem to see a LOT of this here in south charlotte, does S.C. not have annual safety inspections?


What would an inspection do to guarantee the lights will be functional year round?


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## col.mustard (Jul 16, 2008)

NeverEnoughCars said:


> What would an inspection do to guarantee the lights will be functional year round?


you do not understand the purpose of annual safety inspections?


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## VWVan (Feb 17, 2000)

Are those bluetooth obdii that can show boost, temps, etc any good? Or just trash?


----------



## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

worth_fixing said:


> Alright, I need to speak to a chemist.
> 
> I need to know what causes oxidation in an oxygen-deprived environment. For example, how does rust creep, or even form, in a case where steel is painted? I understand that it’s possible there were contaminants and oxides even before any protective coating was applied, but once all the oxygen is used up on that surface area, there is no more iron that can be converted into iron oxide, therefor the volume of rust should remain the same for as long as there is no more oxygen exposed to any more iron. If paint hasn’t cracked, it has a certain flexibility that literally seals its steel sheeting from any oxygen penetration.
> 
> …so how is this sheet metal bubbling from underneath the paint? The other side of the sheet metal shows no sign of any oxidation and is also coated with a rust inhibitor. The problem is definitely coming from the painted side of the sheet.


Paint is semi-porous so allows oxygen through. Oxygen molecules are small, you know. It's called filiform corrosion.
It's especially pervasive on painted aluminum.


----------



## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

col.mustard said:


> agreed, blind the isht out of them from behind - if they don't care enough to have functioning lights, then i don't care about them in return. i seem to see a LOT of this here in south charlotte, does S.C. not have annual safety inspections?


I care less about blinding them, and more about being able to actually see them in the dark :sly: 

BTW AL doesn't have safety inspections.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

NeverEnoughCars said:


> What would an inspection do to guarantee the lights will be functional year round?


Wrong thread, the inspection debate is over herehttps://forums.vwvortex.com/showthr...ty-Parking-Lot-Hit-and-(eventually)-Run/page2.


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## NeverEnoughCars (Aug 2, 2013)

col.mustard said:


> you do not understand the purpose of annual safety inspections?


I understand the reality around annual safety inspections.


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

If I like the noise / startup sequence of an external fuel pump but the only upgrade is 3x internal pumps, could I put it on a manual switch to enjoy the similar process / noise?


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

worth_fixing said:


> but rust only occurs with oxidation, so exposed to oxygen. If it's covered in paint, how does it continue to rust more and more? Are you telling me that there is oxygen in the paint molecules whose bonds are weaker than that of Iron, and essentially all non-ionized Iron will steal the oxygen molecules from the paint?


Oxidization is another word for rust. The paint may not be applied properly it's permeable. And for water-based paints, yes, there absolutely is oxygen in there.

It happens at a microscopic scale.

As I mentioned, rust can happen anywhere. Including on aluminum.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

GreenandChrome said:


> Oxidization is another word for rust. The paint may not be applied properly it's permeable. And for water-based paints, yes, there absolutely is oxygen in there.
> 
> It happens at a microscopic scale.
> 
> As I mentioned, rust can happen anywhere. Including on aluminum.


alright, so how does sheet metal NOT rust? I mean, given what you guys are mentioning about paint porosity, it sounds like all sheet metal, regardless of coating, regardless of treatment, WILL rust.

Unless a 3-series stainless steel is used, all steels will rust. Hm. Every car I buy will turn to rubble. Why does my Mazda wanna rust so much quicker than any other car?


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

worth_fixing said:


> it sounds like all sheet metal, regardless of coating, regardless of treatment, WILL rust.


Eventually, yes. Exposed sheet metal is galvanized, as are many automobile panels, which both physically protects the steel, and also changes the target of oxidation to where the zinc coating oxidizes first.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanization

If you put a plain sheet of mild steel outside it will rust in minutes. If it's a Subaru panel, it rusts before it gets outside.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

worth_fixing said:


> Why does my Mazda wanna rust so much quicker than any other car?


I had heard this a few years ago and it made sense to me: Mazda was one of the last manufacturers to use non-galvanized steel, hence many 10-year old cars rusting long before other contemporaries. Audi was one of the first to use galvanized steel in the 80s.


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

TooFitToQuit said:


> If I like the noise / startup sequence of an external fuel pump but the only upgrade is 3x internal pumps, could I put it on a manual switch to enjoy the similar process / noise?


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

TooFitToQuit said:


>


I'll take a stab and say probably not. If you mean "internal" is inside the fuel tank. The fuel will muffle the sound. You'd get the process, probably, but not the same noise.

If I ever build a hot rod, I'm throwing in a race car ignition process. Master switch, ignition toggle switch, and push button start.


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## dan of montana (Mar 30, 2015)

VWVan said:


> Are those bluetooth obdii that can show boost, temps, etc any good? Or just trash?



Nah, they work reasonably well. I've noticed between older cars and new cars, there seems to be more info coming from the bluetooth adapter. I use one that was like $20, and I had an android tablet thing that came as a TV remote that I loaded torq onto.


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## fizay (Oct 10, 2008)

Say a car is up on jack stands, and I've got the power steering on, when I cut the wheel left and right all the way, should I feel anything through the tie rods, or should it be buttery smooth? 

It doesn't visually shake but it's definitely not as smooth as I'd imagine.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

fizay said:


> Say a car is up on jack stands, and I've got the power steering on, when I cut the wheel left and right all the way, should I feel anything through the tie rods, or should it be buttery smooth?
> 
> It doesn't visually shake but it's definitely not as smooth as I'd imagine.


If your suspension is hanging down the related parts are not in the proper orientation to tell whether it's operating smoothly. You need the weight f the car on the suspension to put the parts in their operating position.

Put the tires down on a could of layers of plastic bags and try it again.


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## Just Another Sweater (Aug 11, 2002)

barry2952 said:


> If your suspension is hanging down the related parts are not in the proper orientation to tell whether it's operating smoothly. You need the weight f the car on the suspension to put the parts in their operating position.
> 
> Put the tires down on a could of layers of plastic bags and try it again.


Or use plastic trays on wet a wet surface to minimize friction?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Just another GTI said:


> Or use plastic trays on wet a wet surface to minimize friction?


Anything that keeps the tire from groping. I think a plastic tray would make noise while plastic bags would be silent.


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## Just Another Sweater (Aug 11, 2002)

Good point. I was thinking of something more durable than plastic bags.


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## fizay (Oct 10, 2008)

barry2952 said:


> Anything that keeps the tire from groping. I think a plastic tray would make noise while plastic bags would be silent.


make sure my tires don't brett kavanaugh the tarmac, got it. thanks.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

What does it mean when water comes out of the exhaust? I get that it's probably condensation, but where from? Why? Why doesn't it stop when the engine gets up to temp?


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## Tripicana (Dec 17, 2004)

Water is the natural by product of combustion.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

Tripicana said:


> Water is the natural by product of combustion.


Yes. Whether you see it depends on a number of factors, like temperature, humidity, how much has collected in the exhaust from previous short trips, exhaust flow, vehicle dynamics, etc.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

thegave said:


> What does it mean when water comes out of the exhaust? I get that it's probably condensation, but where from? Why? Why doesn't it stop when the engine gets up to temp?


If it never goes away and/or there's a sweet-smelling white fog that lingers, it could point to head gasket issues (coolant).


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## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

With so many vehicles running OEM LED and HID headlights these days, can you walk into a parts store and buy replacement headlights? Is it dealer only? I've never bothered to look, but surely there has to be person store replacement, right?


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## Aseras (Dec 2, 2010)

Yeah they sell "common" hid and led bulbs, like The D's D1S, D1R, D2S, D2R, D3S, D4S.

They ain't cheap.


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## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

Why do some hoods run all the way to the leading edge of the car, and some don't?


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

g-man_ae said:


> Why do some hoods run all the way to the leading edge of the car, and some don't?


Planned obsolescence. 

American car companies started making the front ends a separate piece in the 1960s so they could swap the front out every year to make them look "new" each year. Some companies swapped fronts between divisions. It's an easy change that costs very little. 

European car companies didn't do that. Now it's easy to just swap the front and rear bumper covers anyway.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

These days, isn't it more due to pedestrian impact standards?

Skip to 2:00 on this and look how much softer that front end looks than meeting a metal hood.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

VR6JH said:


> With so many vehicles running OEM LED and HID headlights these days, can you walk into a parts store and buy replacement headlights? Is it dealer only? I've never bothered to look, but surely there has to be person store replacement, right?


HID bulbs are user-serviceable and are available in the aftermarket. Average OEM cost is around $150 from what I've seen, though aftermarket can be less. HID bulbs are like halogens, they have a relatively limited service life compared to LEDs.

LEDs are not user-serviceable, in my experience. Every LED headlight I've come across (many VWs, and a few other brands), the LED light unit is built into the housing and must be changed as a unit. LEDs have way longer service lives than halogen or HID (they don't burn out), so they don't require replacement in the life of the vehicle under normal conditions.

Aftermarket LED bulbs are sold in shapes that fit into halogen or HID housings, but those are a bad idea.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

adrew said:


> These days, isn't it more due to pedestrian impact standards?
> 
> Skip to 2:00 on this and look how much softer that front end looks than meeting a metal hood.


Well, American car companies have been doing it for over 50 years now and most European cars still don't have them. 

If it was because of a safety standard all cars sold in the U.S. would be required to meet the same standard. 

If you are interested, you could look up the American safety standards on the NHTSA website.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

Alright...this is pissing me off. In the morning, just as I head out to drive, the first few clutch releases from a standstill in 1st gear are met with a terrible shudder and vibration, almost as if the clutch catches and releases 10x/sec. It gets better as I drive, and by the 3rd intersection, it's almost back to normal. I've tried several things; releasing extremely slowly, very slowly with a little more gas, rolling stops for the first few intersections, "warming up" the clutch surface as the car is idling by depressing repeatedly the clutch pedal. Nothing works. It always shudders quite violently on take off. I've been very easy on my clutch its entire life, and my car has 90,000 km on it. I've noticed my dad's Mazda6 suffers from this quite a bit, but he's always been really hard on his car; I always assumed he glazed his clutch at one point. But me? I've never let my clutch slide at all, even up hill, I don't think I even hit 1,000 rpm.

Funny enough, this doesn't happen at the end of the day when I leave work; only in the morning, like there's moisture on the surface...except it's only been happening in the last 5,000 km. I don't remember experiencing this before then.

Has anyone else experienced this? What is causing this, and is there a remedy without replacing my clutch? I've never had this on any of my other manual cars.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Do you park outside? Mine does that for the first couple of starts if it's parked outside overnight while it's really humid (rain/fog).


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

adrew said:


> Do you park outside? Mine does that for the first couple of starts if it's parked outside overnight while it's really humid (rain/fog).


yeah, it's always outside; never sees a garage. It used to be when it was a little humid/rainy out, but now it's all the time. And I would have thought a clutch would have resisted humidity nore than that. Isn't the bellhousing a sealed compartment?


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

TTT

Anyone have a fix for this? This morning it was f*cking terrible. Sometimes I feel like it drives like an early 2000s Kia product, and other times it drives just fine. It usually corrects itself shortly after I bitch about it...but then back to craptastickness shortly after. The inconsistency of some mechanical systems really gets to me. Did I glaze my clutch at some point? Why would it grab more consistently once it wams up?

I'm thinking of opening up the bell housing and seeing if there's anything to clean. Depending how much of a ****ty job this it, I might just replace the clutch if this continues.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

worth_fixing said:


> yeah, it's always outside; never sees a garage. It used to be when it was a little humid/rainy out, but now it's all the time. And I would have thought a clutch would have resisted humidity nore than that. Isn't the bellhousing a sealed compartment?


No bellhousings are “sealed”. None have gaskets so air leaks will be in 100% of standard single plate dry clutches, hence the quotation marks. Some have plastic covers that don’t even fit tightly, some have drain holes at the bottom, etc. If the front seal of the trans or engine rear main seal fails you want the oil to have a path out so that the bellhousing doesn’t fill up with gear/engine oil.

I would imagine more exotic machinery might have a sealed housing, but I can’t say.


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

^ ^ ^ This. 
And, to add to that.... Remember, temperature in there varies wildly - as much as <0*F up to >200*F, as the engine warms up, and quite rapidly. It's gotta be able to breathe (read: give the expanding air somewhere to go.)


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## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

Is there any point in picking one marque or another, now that

- design and production are globalized?
- reliability is a given (which is good, since serviceability is a fading memory)?
- both styling and driving dynamics are becoming vanilla and homogenized?
- features are becoming more standardized?
- everything will eventually become a self-driving electric CUV?


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

g-man_ae said:


> Is there any point in picking one marque or another, now that
> 
> - design and production are globalized?
> - reliability is a given (which is good, since serviceability is a fading memory)?
> ...


nearly all your premises are untrue.


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## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

GreenandChrome said:


> nearly all your premises are untrue.


"Hi, my name is John Titor, and I'm stopping off in the year 2000" when the above *were* untrue.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

The same thing has been happening since cars began. Consolidation, efficiency, etc. We may be getting ever-closer, but I don't think we'll ever reach that end point. There will always be room for competition in transportation.


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

VDub2625 said:


> The same thing has been happening since cars began. Consolidation, efficiency, etc. We may be getting ever-closer, but I don't think we'll ever reach that end point. There will always be room for competition in transportation.


Just like any other product.



g-man_ae said:


> Is there any point in picking one marque or another, now that
> 
> - design and production are globalized?


Depends on your definition of "globalized." Design is still done in-house. Production facilities are spread across the globe, but how much of that is determined by foreign trade laws? A true, globalized production would be where a vehicle is produced and sold in every market as the same vehicle (save for RHD/LHD). The Malibu you buy in, say, Malibu, should be the same Malibu in Dubai, J'burg, London, Tokyo, and Sydney.



g-man_ae said:


> - reliability is a given (which is good, since serviceability is a fading memory)?


Mechanical reliability has taken great strides, and nearly all cars can easily surpass 100,000 miles of service. But as technology usage in vehicles has increased, that has given unreliable products to the market. One only needs to look at Alfa, Jaguar, BMW, Toyota, etc. to see that reliability, as a whole, still is a crap shoot.



g-man_ae said:


> - both styling and driving dynamics are becoming vanilla and homogenized?


Only if you exclude the vast array of supercars, exotics, the ubiquitous Miata, M-series, S/R-line, so on and so forth. While good styling is subjective, you cannot argue there is not a plethora of alternatives on the market that are distinctive in the styling.



g-man_ae said:


> - features are becoming more standardized?


Standardized, yes, as technology improves. However, features continually are added to vehicles. The bar keeps getting raised; it does not mean features (and by extension, you'd have to include options) are "standardized."


g-man_ae said:


> - everything will eventually become a self-driving electric CUV?


Not for decades. Remember, we're all supposed to be driving flying cars, according to the futurists of the 60s. Desired technology never advances quick enough.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

How f***** is this hex bolt here and what’s the best way to go forward with removing it?

I’ve read that some people try to force a torx bit in to undo it but that seems like the nuclear option that’s going to totally destroy it. 

I saw this stuff at oreillys that’s supposed to improve the tool’s grip on the fastener. Does it work at all?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

thegave said:


> How f***** is this hex bolt here and what’s the best way to go forward with removing it?
> 
> I’ve read that some people try to force a torx bit in to undo it but that seems like the nuclear option that’s going to totally destroy it.
> 
> I saw this stuff at oreillys that’s supposed to improve the tool’s grip on the fastener. Does it work at all?


Probably not. You're going to have to replace the bolt so you might want to use brute force. If none of your tools grip you can cut a 1/16 slot with wheel of death and use a large bit in an impact screwdriver.

If you can get a bit to grab you might want to try something counter-intuitive and try tightening the bolt slightly, before attempting to remove it. That action breaks the common oxidation ring around the bolt's or nut's end and allows for it to break up the corrosion on the bolt's removal. I thought it was crazy, but I've doing that for 20 years.


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Nvm got it. Phew. Only the outer edges were round so holding the hex bit in gave it enough purchase to keep turning.

Will definitely be replacing though.


----------



## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

With a larger audio system playing with the car off at a car show, would a battery tender provide enough juice to offset the power loss of the radio?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

TooFitToQuit said:


> With a larger audio system playing with the car off at a car show, would a battery tender provide enough juice to offset the power loss of the radio?


Where do you plug it in at a car show?


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

barry2952 said:


> Where do you plug it in at a car show?


110v is quite easy to find for the shows I visit.


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

VR6JH said:


> With so many vehicles running OEM LED and HID headlights these days, can you walk into a parts store and buy replacement headlights? Is it dealer only? I've never bothered to look, but surely there has to be person store replacement, right?


Housings remain dealer only, or cheaper (and lower quality) alternates available in the usual places like Amazon, eBay, etc.

HID components are sold separately and relatively easy to replace.

LED components are not sold separately and often difficult to replace--most housings are sealed with the LED driver inside. So you CAN get to it, but you'd first have to find a used replacement and then proceed to install it or have a professional install it.

Example: 2015+ Toyota Corolla LED projector and driver, which is mounted inside the sealed housing: http://vtecminis.com/shon/sell/LED/corolla01.jpg


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## NeverEnoughCars (Aug 2, 2013)

TooFitToQuit said:


> With a larger audio system playing with the car off at a car show, would a battery tender provide enough juice to offset the power loss of the radio?


How large of a system are you talking?


----------



## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

NeverEnoughCars said:


> How large of a system are you talking?


Let's assume 1500w RMS


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

TooFitToQuit said:


> Let's assume 1500w RMS


LOL, no.
Most battery tenders only output 1 - 2 amps continuous, which is 12-25 Watts

Measure the actual average current draw of the stereo, and pick a power supply/charger based on that.


----------



## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

TooFitToQuit said:


> Let's assume 1500w RMS


All depends on how loud you have it, how efficient the amp is, and how big the battery tender is. If you have a clamp on amp meter that reads DC, you can see how much the stereo/accessories are drawing. I would assume the guys at TRS will have one and know how to use it. 

At a moderate volume appropriate for a vendor booth at a car show, I would estimate ~10 amps, which is closer to the output of a small battery charger not a tender. But that should be manageable.


----------



## bc (Sep 24, 2001)

monoaural said:


> All depends on how loud you have it, how efficient the amp is, and how big the battery tender is. If you have a clamp on amp meter that reads DC, you can see how much the stereo/accessories are drawing. I would assume the guys at TRS will have one and know how to use it.
> 
> At a moderate volume appropriate for a vendor booth at a car show, I would estimate ~10 amps, which is closer to the output of a small battery charger not a tender. But that should be manageable.


We use 10A automatic battery chargers (they call em 'Battery Auto Follow Systems' here) for events where groups of 10-20 people will rotate through cars for 8-10 hours at a time. The attendees will be playing with the audio system, lights, power seats, power back doors, etc. We have found that 10A is just about the limit with an OEM audio system. 










If I had to do it over again, I would go with a 12A capacity for a bit more safety margin.


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

who ever thought this was a "good" idea?


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

The door edge lining? It’s supposed to reduce scrapes and scratches... does it not in practice?


----------



## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

Why do car batteries made in the last 10 years or so just up and die without warning? Seems to be true of both factory and aftermarket batteries, without regard for vehicle make/model. Personal examples include the factory batteries in my old MS3 (lasted 3 years) and the wife's Beetle (4 years), and then the replacement battery for the Beetle (SuperStart Platinum, 2.5 years). My late 90s/early 00s cars would give more warning, e.g. slow starts, random idiot lights, headlights dimming with increased electrical load, etc. (as was the case for my 1996 Olds, on both the factory AC Delco battery (3.5 years) and the DieHard that replaced it (3.5 years)).


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

g-man_ae said:


> Why do car batteries made in the last 10 years or so just up and die without warning? Seems to be true of both factory and aftermarket batteries, without regard for vehicle make/model. Personal examples include the factory batteries in my old MS3 (lasted 3 years) and the wife's Beetle (4 years), and then the replacement battery for the Beetle (SuperStart Platinum, 2.5 years). My late 90s/early 00s cars would give more warning, e.g. slow starts, random idiot lights, headlights dimming with increased electrical load, etc. (as was the case for my 1996 Olds, on both the factory AC Delco battery (3.5 years) and the DieHard that replaced it (3.5 years)).


Because cars are much more sensitive to any change in voltage/amp. Once the battery falls below the threshold the car will just stop working due to the vast # of sensors and electronic systems. Old cars didn't have those systems so they would continue to operate with a slowly failing battery.


----------



## Jettaboy1884 (Jan 20, 2004)

Ooooh! *raises hand*

Ok, so why are large diesel engines given a blanket paint job treatment of a single color? I understand using a bright color so that you can ID a leak, but it seems like they fully assemble the engine and then paint the entire thing in one shot.


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## Just Another Sweater (Aug 11, 2002)

Jettaboy1884 said:


> Ooooh! *raises hand*
> 
> Ok, so why are large diesel engines given a blanket paint job treatment of a single color? I understand using a bright color so that you can ID a leak, but it seems like they fully assemble the engine and then paint the entire thing in one shot.


It seems like an easy way to identify replaced parts during the engine's life and problem parts.

Just a wild guess.

Edit: It also provides protection from extreme conditions like open pit mines.


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## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

Nope. Just easy and cheap to do it that way. As a former engineer for AGCO/Challenger, on our assembly line, most of the mechanical (axles, hydraulics, engine, etc) would be assembled, everything started and run, checked for leaks with UV, then sent to paint all as one big assembly. Then cab, hood, wheels were installed in finishing.

Same thing with basic engine assemblies. Cheaper and easier than taping everything off. Install everything possible, then one big blanket coat over everything.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

There must be bare spots for ground points, electrical connectors etc? There must be masks for those.


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

When I first start up my car (08 G35) I take off and get to about 4000 rpms and there is a sort of ticking noise coming from the dash. To me it sounds like the tach or speedo clicking rather fast ... WTF is that noise ?? Should I be worried ??


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

VDub2625 said:


> There must be bare spots for ground points, electrical connectors etc? There must be masks for those.


 3 seconds with a grinder.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

For cars with traction control and stability systems that use automated braking at necessary wheels, do those systems make noticable noise if rotors are rusted? Like when you drive after a big rain storm, and your brakes are all surface-rusted and noisy for a few miles.


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## Just Another Sweater (Aug 11, 2002)

MrMook said:


> For cars with traction control and stability systems that use automated braking at necessary wheels, do those systems make noticeable noise if rotors are rusted? Like when you drive after a big rain storm, and your brakes are all surface-rusted and noisy for a few miles.


I haven't noticed any noise from my VWs except the intervention of the traction control (cutting power). The stability control seems to work silently.


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## MGQ (Apr 16, 2002)

GreenandChrome said:


> who ever thought this was a "good" idea?


I had a 4 door 84 Lebaron with these and I decided to remove them for a “cleaner look” (on a car with wire hubcaps and vinyl roof!) Panel gaps were so huge i put them back on to help mask it.  I assume this was at least part of their original intention.


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## benjamminfla (Aug 7, 2015)

What are those big trash can looking things on the sides of the some Peterbilt and Kenworth semi trucks?


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

Fuel tanks?  
Also, there's a (quite large) DEF tank on the newer trucks, too (has a blue cap.) 

A picture might help us help you.....


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

VDub2625 said:


> There must be bare spots for ground points, electrical connectors etc? There must be masks for those.





GreenandChrome said:


> 3 seconds with a grinder.


That, or install a fastener at the necessary point prior to paint. Remove bolt or nut, and, bam! Clean metal.


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## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

I think he's talking about the air filter housing


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

cuppie said:


> That, or install a fastener at the necessary point prior to paint. Remove bolt or nut, and, bam! Clean metal.


Nope. For any industrial coating, it's applied thick for maximum durability. Therefore, a bolt that has to be removed will likely break the paint or powdercoat. Which will allow the paint to be weak in this spot, and eventually be the point of premature failure. This would also require a tool and time. The quickest, and cheapest, method is to grind a spot bare.

When we powdercoated chassis, the threaded holes were filled with a bolt. Then we had to cut the coating around the bolt, because using a wrench would chip and break in the wrong spots. It was quicker easier to leave the threads open and just chase it with a tap.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

What do you call more than one chassis? Chasses?


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## 1x1 (Jul 30, 2016)

thegave said:


> What do you call more than one chassis? Chasses?


Singular - Chassee

Plural - Chasseez

When written, chassis is the same singular and plural.


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

1x1 said:


> Singular - Chassee
> 
> Plural - Chasseez
> 
> When written, chassis is the same singular and plural.


Damn homographs.


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## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

Is the effect of a flat-plane crank effectively making a boxer engine into a V shape?

Happy new year!


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## 93JC (Jul 24, 2008)

DonPatrizio said:


> Is the effect of a flat-plane crank effectively making a boxer engine into a V shape?


¿Qué?


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## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

No, I guess it's not. It's like taking a boxer four and doubling it up on one side, then mirroring it into a V.


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## benjamminfla (Aug 7, 2015)

VR6JH said:


> I think he's talking about the air filter housing


Thanks for the reply. I've never been up under the hood of one of those, but I assume it would be fairly obvious if I had. Did the just run out of room, or is there another reason they are on the outside?

Sent from my LGLS775 using Tapatalk


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## VWestlife (Sep 29, 2004)

benjamminfla said:


> Thanks for the reply. I've never been up under the hood of one of those, but I assume it would be fairly obvious if I had. Did the just run out of room, or is there another reason they are on the outside?


For trucks driving in extremely dusty environments (quarries, coal mines, etc.) it would be easier to check and clean or replace the air filter, without needing to open the hood.


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## samlclem28 (Jan 7, 2009)

Regarding the APR dongle: what exactly is data logging and what is it used for?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

VWestlife said:


> For trucks driving in extremely dusty environments (quarries, coal mines, etc.) it would be easier to check and clean or replace the air filter, without needing to open the hood.


Not sure about semis, I would assume there is some sort of cyclonic action as seen on Land Cruisers and other trucks used in desert environments (sort of like a Dyson or bagless vacuum) that helps separate the grit from the air so it doesn't clog the air filter.

Land Cruiser example
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/a-closer-look-at-the-oem-cyclonic-air-filter.459033/










Grit collects in here


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

samlclem28 said:


> Regarding the APR dongle: what exactly is data logging and what is it used for?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Data logging pulls data from various sensors so you can see graphically what’s with your motor; it’s primarily a diagnostic tool. Common things logged are N75 duty cycle, requested/actual boost pressure, timing, something about the injectors... then you get a table of whatever you’re logging vs RPM. 

VCDS offers the same (probably more expansive) capability. Their website might describe it better.

Or APR https://www.goapr.com/support/datalogging.php


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## samlclem28 (Jan 7, 2009)

Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Heffernan (Apr 17, 2006)

For Subarus/AWD cars, what's the point of having a spare tire if the differentials are so sensitive to tread-wear differences? Seems to me a spare tire would become useless after just a few months of driving.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

Heffernan said:


> For Subarus/AWD cars, what's the point of having a spare tire if the differentials are so sensitive to tread-wear differences? Seems to me a spare tire would become useless after just a few months of driving.


AWD is sensitive, but not that sensitive for a short distance at lower speeds.

My manual tells me that any space must go onto the front axle, as the rear diff is limited slip. There have been reports of fires when people didn't do this, and drove a long way at highway speeds.
The CVT Forester has a fuse to pull to disable AWD if you have the spare on.
The Ascent has a diameter correct spare tire.

Non Subaru, Our Acadia can detect the spare tire and disables the AWD.

Spare tires are an absolute necessity for anyone who ventures outside of cell range, and can't rely on roadside assistance to get them back to civilization.
Folks who are in this situation often will improvise, and put a full size spare onto a roof rack.
I don't go anywhere without a patch kit and small compressor. I won't venture outside the metro area without a diameter correct spare.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Surf Green said:


> The Ascent has a diameter correct spare tire.


It is my knowledge that every spare is "diameter-correct", meaning the math involved with the sidewall height ratio means the overall diameter of the spare tire should be very close to the full size diameter (and approximately equal revs per mile). 

My guess is with AWD, short repair trips are acceptable (since it's supposed to be temporary anyway), driving for 10, 20, 30k is not.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

VDub2625 said:


> It is my knowledge that every spare is "diameter-correct", meaning the math involved with the sidewall height ratio means the overall diameter of the spare tire should be very close to the full size diameter (and approximately equal revs per mile).


I have 4 exceptions to your 'every' claim, and that's just among vehicles I've owned.

The GD WRX spare was an inch too short, which is why it was replaced by a larger one from a newer generation with a 17x4 rim instead of the 16x4 rim.
The Acadia's spare is comically small, almost *6"* shorter than the normal tires.
The Mk2 and Mk3 spares are all significantly smaller than stock.


edit: 

The Acadia spare is a 145/70-17 with an diameter of 25"
The Acadia stock tire size is 255/65-18 with a diameter of 31"


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## samlclem28 (Jan 7, 2009)

Noob question but could someone explain what items one would need to get started with VAG-COM. Correct me if I’m wrong but it appears you can either do a dongle to your phone or cable to tablet/laptop? Any other info please describe and thanks in advance.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## DonL (Feb 28, 1999)

Surf Green said:


> AWD is sensitive, but not that sensitive for a short distance at lower speeds.
> 
> The CVT Forester has a fuse to pull to disable AWD if you have the spare on.
> 
> ...


Mrs. DonL's Impreza, IIRC, recommends placing the spare on the rear and removing the fuse so that the two front tires are matching and the rears are just dragged along.

i agree about spares, a couple times a year we'll travel out of cell range or outside of areas where you can easily find a spare at a tire shop. I check the pressure in the spare, make sure my tire plug kit is usable, and pack a breaker bar with the correct-sized socket on it. i'm not going to wrestle with those silly little wannabe wrenches they hide in the spare tire kit.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Is there any particular sort of damage that a "hot air intake" like this one could do to an engine? Found this Lancer Ralliart on CL, and wondering if this would be an issue. Easy to fix going forward, but is there anything particularly harmful I should worry about if it spent any portion of it's 190K life breathing hot air?


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## UncleJB (Jul 3, 2002)

samlclem28 said:


> Noob question but could someone explain what items one would need to get started with VAG-COM. Correct me if I’m wrong but it appears you can either do a dongle to your phone or cable to tablet/laptop? Any other info please describe and thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


See link below for Ross Tech VCDS products.

http://www.ross-tech.com/products.php


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## Nealric (Feb 16, 2013)

MrMook said:


> Is there any particular sort of damage that a "hot air intake" like this one could do to an engine? Found this Lancer Ralliart on CL, and wondering if this would be an issue. Easy to fix going forward, but is there anything particularly harmful I should worry about if it spent any portion of it's 190K life breathing hot air?


If it's made it this long and isn't running rough or consuming significant amounts of oil, it is probably fine. The main problem with aftermarket intakes is that the factory ECU tune may not be correct if airflow and/or IATs are way outside of the parameters it is expecting. It's a bigger problem with cars like the STI that run a lot of boost- untuned car with intake = blown engine in Subaru world. That said, running even slightly lean/rich for a large part of the car's life certainly isn't GOOD for it. Other problem is that those cone filters often let in a lot more dust than factory air filters, which means the motor may have had to process more grit over its life, which means more wear on the bearings, etc.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

Thanks Nealric!

New question: What is the lever on the gear shift of (some) rally cars? Looks like a bicycle brake lever, but where does that cable go?


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## CostcoPizza (Jan 20, 2008)

Just a guess and have no idea but...reverse lock out?


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

CostcoPizza said:


> Just a guess and have no idea but...reverse lock out?


If they had the standard "H" pattern I'd say 'yeah', but they're usually (always?) sequential. That may still mean it's a reverse lock out, but it may be for accessing neutral. Or possibly both! 

In for answers.


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

MrMook said:


> Thanks Nealric!
> 
> New question: What is the lever on the gear shift of (some) rally cars? Looks like a bicycle brake lever, but where does that cable go?


Quick search... sequential gearboxes use dog clutches, rather than syncromeshes like in H-patterns. So like a motorcycle, a clutch doesn't require a lot of work in sequential gearboxes. And I assume it's run off that lever instead of a pedal.


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## MrMook (Dec 3, 2006)

GreenandChrome said:


> Quick search... sequential gearboxes use dog clutches, rather than syncromeshes like in H-patterns. So like a motorcycle, a clutch doesn't require a lot of work in sequential gearboxes. And I assume it's run off that lever instead of a pedal.


There's a similar lever on this one, but the driver never seems to touch it. It's also mounted a bit more out of the way, and on the downshift side, rather than the upshift side (if both boxes are set up the same...I've heard that sequential boxes can differ in this area). Reverse lockout seems to make sense. 







Edit: A friend of mine who rally's confirms it's usually a reverse lock-out. Some shifters have a collar you pull up on, but with the high position of a rally shifter it's hard to pull up on a collar, and easier to grab or mash a lever instead.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

My car specs conventional oil changes every 5k miles, but I have been using synthetic and doing it every 6-7k (twice a year) - it comes out darker but clear.

The past two oil changes, I've noticed that at about 5k miles, I start getting some noise on startup and for the first few miles that isn't there normally. It's not a loud rattle like a slack timing chain or VVT actuator, or a rhythmic tapping like from a valve or lifter, but just kind of a continuous mechanical shhhhhhhh noise (engine is normally very smooth and quiet at idle, esp. after it's warmed up). It's not loud, and most people probably wouldn't notice it, but I definitely hear it.

Is the old/dirty oil causing noise from the timing chain/tensioner? Would it be safe to assume that this would be a reliable indicator that an oil change is necessary?

This is the old 1.5-liter 1NZ-FE engine that debuted in the late '90s. I have been putting Mobil 1 5W-30 in it (usually EP).


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

adrew said:


> My car specs conventional oil changes every 5k miles, but I have been using synthetic and doing it every 6-7k (twice a year) - it comes out darker but clear.
> 
> The past two oil changes, I've noticed that at about 5k miles, I start getting some noise on startup and for the first few miles that isn't there normally. It's not a loud rattle like a slack timing chain or VVT actuator, or a rhythmic tapping like from a valve or lifter, but just kind of a continuous mechanical shhhhhhhh noise (engine is normally very smooth and quiet at idle, esp. after it's warmed up). It's not loud, and most people probably wouldn't notice it, but I definitely hear it.
> 
> ...


Viscosity can change as oil is aged/used, particularly with heat--if it were my car, I'd send a 5k sample to blackstone and see if the report sheds some light on the situation. :beer:


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## Strange Mud (Oct 20, 2017)

or just start changing as soon as this happens to see if it really is solution note mile/time and try to do it a bit before if proactive type


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## ValveCoverGasket (Mar 20, 2002)

benjamminfla said:


> Thanks for the reply. I've never been up under the hood of one of those, but I assume it would be fairly obvious if I had. Did the *just run out of room*, or is there another reason they are on the outside?


bingo. its a holdover of the old school low hood small cab packaging days.
its also a huge hit to aero. it hangs on because it look cool.

speaking of which... you can also sometimes find trucks equipped with external oil or fluid reservoirs that look like side mounted air cleaners. typically older dump trucks.


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## EnIgMa '06 (May 13, 2004)

How much do manufacturers really save by cheaping out on window switches? I drive a lot of rental cars and my #1 complaint about almost every car I drive is that they will ONLY have auto-down/auto-up (if they have auto-up at all) for the driver's window. Every VW and BMW I've ever driven/owned has had auto-up/auto-down for all windows. Even my stripped out 2019 Jetta rental has auto-up/down for all four windows. I literally would never buy a car without this feature.


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

EnIgMa '06 said:


> How much do manufacturers really save by cheaping out on window switches? I drive a lot of rental cars and my #1 complaint about almost every car I drive is that they will ONLY have auto-down/auto-up (if they have auto-up at all) for the driver's window. Every VW and BMW I've ever driven/owned has had auto-up/auto-down for all windows. Even my stripped out 2019 Jetta rental has auto-up/down for all four windows. I literally would never buy a car without this feature.


My Chevy truck had auto up and down.


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## Lifelong Obsession (Jul 24, 2011)

Why do most seatbelt latch plates have one hole, but others (some Volvo and Chrysler/FCA products, for example) have two?


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

EnIgMa '06 said:


> How much do manufacturers really save by cheaping out on window switches? I drive a lot of rental cars and my #1 complaint about almost every car I drive is that they will ONLY have auto-down/auto-up (if they have auto-up at all) for the driver's window. Every VW and BMW I've ever driven/owned has had auto-up/auto-down for all windows. Even my stripped out 2019 Jetta rental has auto-up/down for all four windows. I literally would never buy a car without this feature.


 It isn't just the switch - you also need a means of controlling and monitoring that window (position, blocking/trap protection) - think "hall sensor in motor, current monitoring, and a control unit to do it. There's where the money goes.


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

cuppie said:


> It isn't just the switch - you also need a means of controlling and monitoring that window (position, blocking/trap protection) - think "hall sensor in motor, current monitoring, and a control unit to do it. There's where the money goes.


QFT. The car has to reliably figure out when to stop; whether because the window is done moving or there's something blocking it.


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## mraguilar (Sep 27, 2004)

How can I attach images to posts or replies without using external URLs in this forum?


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

I've also seen additional automatic windows being used as a carrot to get people to go ahead and splurge for a higher trim level. Most rentals are lower-spec.


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

mraguilar said:


> How can I attach images to posts or replies without using external URLs in this forum?


1. There's a help subforum around here
2. This isn't it.
3. You can't.


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## Disgruntled Ziemniak (Oct 24, 2016)

Heres one I've always thought on.

If I were to consistently stay off the turbo in a turbo'd car, would that actually be bad for the car.
For simplicity sake, lets just say the engine has got port injection and is fed air by a journal-bearing turb.


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

Lukec436 said:


> Heres one I've always thought on.
> 
> If I were to consistently stay off the turbo in a turbo'd car, would that actually be bad for the car.
> For simplicity sake, lets just say the engine has got port injection and is fed air by a journal-bearing turb.


I don't think it would _cause_ any issues. Unless you've got a bizarre configuration the CHRA is still going to be spinning and the oil is still going to be pumping. I guess over time you could end up with an oil buildup in the charge-air piping as boost can help push out lingering oil, but in the absence of leaks that shouldn't be too bad. I can't really think of anything else, maybe someone else can.

The bigger problem IMO is that you (and the ECU) might not notice issues as they arise. E.g., a broken wastegate actuator wouldn't reveal itself unless you boost over the cracking pressure.


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## Disgruntled Ziemniak (Oct 24, 2016)

ghost03 said:


> I don't think it would _cause_ any issues. Unless you've got a bizarre configuration the CHRA is still going to be spinning and the oil is still going to be pumping. I guess over time you could end up with an oil buildup in the charge-air piping as boost can help push out lingering oil, but in the absence of leaks that shouldn't be too bad. I can't really think of anything else, maybe someone else can.
> 
> _The bigger problem IMO is that you (and the ECU) might not notice issues as they arise. E.g., a broken wastegate actuator wouldn't reveal itself unless you boost over the cracking pressure._


Ah, I see. The ECU one is notable. 
Thanks!


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

mraguilar said:


> How can I attach images to posts or replies without using external URLs in this forum?


Tapatalk


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## mraguilar (Sep 27, 2004)

GreenandChrome said:


> 1. There's a help subforum around here
> 2. This isn't it.
> 3. You can't.


thanks

this suck


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## NeverEnoughCars (Aug 2, 2013)

mraguilar said:


> thanks
> 
> this suck





thegave said:


> Tapatalk


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Strange Mud said:


> or just start changing as soon as this happens to see if it really is solution note mile/time and try to do it a bit before if proactive type


I changed the oil yesterday and it's quiet again, so I guess I'll just have to do it a little more frequently. I had only driven 4900 miles on it but it had been almost eight months, with a lot of short trips and angry traffic driving.


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## Jettaboy1884 (Jan 20, 2004)

Ok, here's one (and sorry if it's been covered already):

I've heard for years how car companies don't like to make models / trim levels that compete internally. It just came up in the "Crosstrek" thread how an STI powered Crosstrek would be awesome, but could "steal away WRX STI sales". And I understand to some extent limiting engine power on say a Camaro, so it doesn't get too close or surpass the Corvette's performance...

At the end of the day wouldn't it be better to sell a car within the manufacturer family instead of losing the sale to another manufacturer who offers the solution a buyer wants?


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## Disgruntled Ziemniak (Oct 24, 2016)

Jettaboy1884 said:


> Ok, here's one (and sorry if it's been covered already):
> 
> I've heard for years how car companies don't like to make models / trim levels that compete internally. It just came up in the "Crosstrek" thread how an STI powered Crosstrek would be awesome, but could "steal away WRX STI sales". And I understand to some extent limiting engine power on say a Camaro, so it doesn't get too close or surpass the Corvette's performance...
> 
> At the end of the day wouldn't it be better to sell a car within the manufacturer family instead of losing the sale to another manufacturer who offers the solution a buyer wants?


*Note: I'm talking out of my ass here*
From how I understand it, instead of creating a need for two separate cars, there becomes a solution to both with a mix. 
Or, perhaps you've got a company with two sports cars, lets call them A and B. Both of them are sporty two door coupe's with ~250 hp. Lets just say that A is selling better than B for whatever reason. Because both of these cars fill the same niche, it makes no sense for the company to create both since A is selling just fine and B is now taking up factory space where the companies crossover, car C, could be built to fill more orders.
They basically start losing money on car B for every one they build unless they differentiate it enough from the other car by making it a proper custom job that jacks the price up, but then noones gonna buy it because its too expensive, and this bullschiet keeps going on longer and longer. It's just not really justified in the end.
Thus was the fate of the Honda Prelude. Was too similar to the Accord and it became way too expensive.

Which reminds me how some companies deal with this: They set-up separate "Premium" brands. I.E. Honda-Acura, Toyota-Lexus, Nissan-Infinity

*Once again, I'm talking out my ass*


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## mraguilar (Sep 27, 2004)

thegave said:


> Tapatalk


thanks


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## Turbo II (Jun 9, 2017)

Lukec436 said:


> *Note: I'm talking out of my ass here*
> From how I understand it, instead of creating a need for two separate cars, there becomes a solution to both with a mix.
> Or, perhaps you've got a company with two sports cars, lets call them A and B. Both of them are sporty two door coupe's with ~250 hp. Lets just say that A is selling better than B for whatever reason. Because both of these cars fill the same niche, it makes no sense for the company to create both since A is selling just fine and B is now taking up factory space where the companies crossover, car C, could be built to fill more orders.
> They basically start losing money on car B for every one they build unless they differentiate it enough from the other car by making it a proper custom job that jacks the price up, but then noones gonna buy it because its too expensive, and this bullschiet keeps going on longer and longer. It's just not really justified in the end.
> ...


That all makes sense to me, but I have a somewhat related question. What was the reasoning behind badge engineering of exact the same cars? Like when GM made triplets with Chevy/Olds/Pontiac (I'm thinking here of the Lumina APV/Silhouette/Trans Sport SE, but that's one of many cars they used for multiple brands of theirs). Essentially they were all pretty much the same thing and neither was distinctively more luxurious than the other, why did they do that?


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Turbo II said:


> That all makes sense to me, but I have a somewhat related question. What was the reasoning behind badge engineering of exact the same cars? Like when GM made triplets with Chevy/Olds/Pontiac (I'm thinking here of the Lumina APV/Silhouette/Trans Sport SE, but that's one of many cars they used for multiple brands of theirs). Essentially they were all pretty much the same thing and neither was distinctively more luxurious than the other, why did they do that?


Different positioning - similar with the Lumina, Cutlass Supreme, Grand Prix and Regal W-bodies.

Aside from the Grand Prix which got some unique powertains (McLaren Turbo) they were the same underneath but provided choices for basic, "sophisticated/Euro, sporty -- and, uh, Buick.


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

Turbo II said:


> That all makes sense to me, but I have a somewhat related question. What was the reasoning behind badge engineering of exact the same cars? Like when GM made triplets with Chevy/Olds/Pontiac (I'm thinking here of the Lumina APV/Silhouette/Trans Sport SE, but that's one of many cars they used for multiple brands of theirs). Essentially they were all pretty much the same thing and neither was distinctively more luxurious than the other, why did they do that?


Generic Motors.

When you had to buy American, you still were brand loyal.


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## Disgruntled Ziemniak (Oct 24, 2016)

adrew said:


> Different positioning - similar with the Lumina, Cutlass Supreme, Grand Prix and Regal W-bodies.
> 
> Aside from the Grand Prix which got some unique powertains (McLaren Turbo) they were the same underneath but provided choices for basic, "sophisticated/Euro, sporty -- and, uh, Buick.


^what he said^

(keep forgetting that McLaren fiddled with the GrandPrix. Can't recall ever seeing one in person though)


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Jettaboy1884 said:


> Ok, here's one (and sorry if it's been covered already):
> 
> I've heard for years how car companies don't like to make models / trim levels that compete internally. It just came up in the "Crosstrek" thread how an STI powered Crosstrek would be awesome, but could "steal away WRX STI sales". And I understand to some extent limiting engine power on say a Camaro, so it doesn't get too close or surpass the Corvette's performance...
> 
> At the end of the day wouldn't it be better to sell a car within the manufacturer family instead of losing the sale to another manufacturer who offers the solution a buyer wants?


Yes, in my opinion. 

It's been said that VWOA decided not to bring the Scirocco III here because they thought it would take sales away from the GTI. 

As a three time new Scirocco buyer, I can tell you that my Scirocco purchases didn't take sales away from any GTIs. My Scirocco purchases _gave_ sales to VWOA.

Not that I wanted a Scirocco III but VWOA probably lost some sales to similar cars from other manufacturers. Maybe some potential Scirocco III buyers bought a BRZ instead. 


If I was in charge at Subaru, I would offer all of my vehicles in STI trim. Worst case scenario, somebody buys a Crosstrek STI instead of a WRX STI. Best case, somebody buys a Crosstek STI _and _a WRX STI. 

I know a guy who has a Corvette _and_ a Chevy SS.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> Yes, in my opinion.
> 
> It's been said that VWOA decided not to bring the Scirocco III here because they thought it would take sales away from the GTI.
> 
> ...


No, they decided not to bring the Scirocco for sound business reasons. Most of the people who would’ve bought it would likely buy a GTI instead, making it nearly a zero conquest car. It was built solely in Europe, making it waaaaay too costly to bring here, and the cost to federalize it would’ve been high. All that to capture a percentage of their own market.


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## Just Another Sweater (Aug 11, 2002)

The Sirocco III was just a less practical, 2 door GTI. Most people rejected 2 door GTIs so it makes no sense to bring over a similar car.

VW would have sold dozens.


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## XClayX (Apr 30, 2005)

Anyone have any issues with those Drivewise/safe dongles from the insurance companies? My partners car has one for years and her car keeps destroying car batteries. Its a 2008 Subaru Impreza and I think its had 5-6 batteries now. OEM 1, NAPA Gold (few), FleetFarm (many)

Granted, we live in MN, record cold temps currently -11f (-24f or maybe lower expected later today). Her battery (14months old) was frozen solid last night but it didn't have enough juice to run the clock in the car. I just can't understand why this stupid car keeps killing batteries. Last battery was about 12 months old before it froze. We've removed the current battery, thawed and charged a few times now. That only got us a few more weeks.

Those unaware of batteries freezing, the lower the overall power in the battery the higher the freezing temperature. So fully charged can withstand colder temps than lets say a 40% charged battery

Could this be it? Everything we can find is OFF on the car. Alternator should be good its new.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I did have a car that I didn't drive at all in winter that kept draining the battery with the Progressive dongle. It stopped killing the battery when i removed it. But I also didn't drive it, so it never recharged while the dongle was in, but it didn't kill the battery by sitting after I took it out. 

I didn't even save any $ because without any records, there was nothing to discount according to progressive! They even sent me emails saying they hadn't heard form my car in a while, lol. I guess the car needs to be used occasionally (but not a lot) to get it. I assumed by killing the battery, the dongle was reporting that it was at least plugged in.


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## XClayX (Apr 30, 2005)

VDub2625 said:


> I did have a car that I didn't drive at all in winter that kept draining the battery with the Progressive dongle. It stopped killing the battery when i removed it. But I also didn't drive it, so it never recharged while the dongle was in, but it didn't kill the battery by sitting after I took it out.
> 
> I didn't even save any $ because without any records, there was nothing to discount according to progressive! They even sent me emails saying they hadn't heard form my car in a while, lol. I guess the car needs to be used occasionally (but not a lot) to get it.


Same here. The vehicle barely gets used, 1-2x a week if we are lucky. Even less so since the battery seems to die on it frequently. We took the battery out last night and behold... we get an email saying the dongle isn't connected anymore.

If this is it what ever we're saving on insurance is getting burned up in time/batteries. We have to get rid of that stupid dongle thing.


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

XClayX said:


> Anyone have any issues with those Drivewise/safe dongles from the insurance companies? My partners car has one for years and her car keeps destroying car batteries. Its a 2008 Subaru Impreza and I think its had 5-6 batteries now. OEM 1, NAPA Gold (few), FleetFarm (many)
> 
> Granted, we live in MN, record cold temps currently -11f (-24f or maybe lower expected later today). Her battery (14months old) was frozen solid last night but it didn't have enough juice to run the clock in the car. I just can't understand why this stupid car keeps killing batteries. Last battery was about 12 months old before it froze. We've removed the current battery, thawed and charged a few times now. That only got us a few more weeks.
> 
> ...


Batteries don't fare well in cold weather.

As far as the insurance dongles, those are pointless. There's no point of reference for them. So if you drive the freeway, or any roads where you have to accelerate, you will get pegged negatively. We did it through Safeco and our data showed we accelerated too much 30% of the time. How the hell do are you supposed to get on the freeway at speed?

I even drove quite gingerly and elderly, and I still had "at-risk" behavior. Total bulls**t.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

GreenandChrome said:


> I even drove quite gingerly and elderly, and I still had "at-risk" behavior. Total bulls**t.


Maybe they monitor your online posts as well. :laugh:


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## XClayX (Apr 30, 2005)

GreenandChrome said:


> Batteries don't fare well in cold weather.


I completely agree, typically find the largest CCA battery the car will take. I think we need to find the least freeze prone battery.


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

Surf Green said:


> Maybe they monitor your online posts as well. :laugh:


If they do...

F**k you, Safeco. F**k you in your stupid f**king asses.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

XClayX said:


> Same here. The vehicle barely gets used, 1-2x a week if we are lucky. Even less so since the battery seems to die on it frequently. We took the battery out last night and behold... we get an email saying the dongle isn't connected anymore.
> 
> If this is it what ever we're saving on insurance is getting burned up in time/batteries. We have to get rid of that stupid dongle thing.


I called Progressive to ask if I would get a discount for not driving the car at all (or if the dongle should recognize my situation)... they said that's not how it works. Then what's the point? I'm clearly not driving fast, hard braking, or driving in commute times if I'm not driving it at all for 6 months out of the year!

I got it right at the beginning of garage season, so my guess is if i had it in the car for a while before parking it, they'd have some "live" data and would give a discount.


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

XClayX said:


> I completely agree, typically find the largest CCA battery the car will take. I think we need to find the least freeze prone battery.


The highest CCA batteries for a given battery size have their plates closer together and are more susceptible to internal shorting, so it's a bit of a tradeoff. Have you considered an AGM (absorbed glass mat) battery instead? I've got one in my Cherokee, and it's been great. 




VDub2625 said:


> I called Progressive to ask if I would get a discount for not driving the car at all (or if the dongle should recognize my situation)... they said that's not how it works. Then what's the point? I'm clearly not driving fast, hard braking, or driving in commute times if I'm not driving it at all for 6 months out of the year!
> 
> I got it right at the beginning of garage season, so my guess is if i had it in the car for a while before parking it, they'd have some "live" data and would give a discount.


I've got USAA, and they'll give me a discount on the GTI for parking it all winter. I need to let them know when I take it off the road in the fall and put it back on in the spring. They reduce the coverage during the winter, so you need to call before you drive it.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

does anyone know if this was a real rally car? who was the driver/team? My friend is doing a watercolor painting for my son similar to this and I was just curious if this was an actual car.


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## CostcoPizza (Jan 20, 2008)

Bjorn Waldegaard drove an SC in '78 for the East Africa Rally.

Different number though...


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

VDub2625 said:


> I did have a car that I didn't drive at all in winter that kept draining the battery with the Progressive dongle. It stopped killing the battery when i removed it. But I also didn't drive it, so it never recharged while the dongle was in, but it didn't kill the battery by sitting after I took it out.
> 
> I didn't even save any $ because without any records, there was nothing to discount according to progressive! They even sent me emails saying they hadn't heard form my car in a while, lol. I guess the car needs to be used occasionally (but not a lot) to get it. I assumed by killing the battery, the dongle was reporting that it was at least plugged in.


 I actually see two problems there, each with its own solution. 

Dead battery due to winter storage: A Battery Tender is significantly cheaper than a battery.  

Paying for insurance for a non-driven (stored) vehicle: Why would you do that? 
Every November, when my Scirocco is put away for her winter nap, I call my insurance co., and drop coverage to 'storage' (basically, comprehensive only.) No way in hell am I going to pay for collision (small $) and liability (silly $$ here), for a car that isn't leaving the garage for >4 months.


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## DerSpiegel (Jun 20, 2008)

XClayX said:


> Anyone have any issues with those Drivewise/safe dongles from the insurance companies? My partners car has one for years and her car keeps destroying car batteries.


Never even heard of those things until I read this post ^^^. I can categorically state that I'll never have one in my car.


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## MBrown (Aug 1, 2000)

worth_fixing said:


> does anyone know if this was a real rally car? who was the driver/team? My friend is doing a watercolor painting for my son similar to this and I was just curious if this was an actual car.


I tried Googling "Porsche Rally Car #14". Saw lots of images, but nothing even similar.

I'm not much of a Porschephile, so I don't know if those colors (light blue, dark blue, red) mean anything in the Porsche world. but they are the colors of BMW's M Division.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

cuppie said:


> Dead battery due to winter storage: A Battery Tender is significantly cheaper than a battery.
> 
> Paying for insurance for a non-driven (stored) vehicle: Why would you do that?
> Every November, when my Scirocco is put away for her winter nap, I call my insurance co., and drop coverage to 'storage' (basically, comprehensive only.) No way in hell am I going to pay for collision (small $) and liability (silly $$ here), for a car that isn't leaving the garage for >4 months.


It wasn't parked anywhere near an outlet, unfortunately 

Progressive didn't mention that as an option when I asked them about storing the car for the winter. I guess they don't offer that.


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## CostcoPizza (Jan 20, 2008)

MBrown said:


> I tried Googling "Porsche Rally Car #14". Saw lots of images, but nothing even similar.
> 
> I'm not much of a Porschephile, so I don't know if those colors (light blue, dark blue, red) mean anything in the Porsche world. but they are the colors of BMW's M Division.


I'd wager it's an abstract rendition of the Martini livery.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

cuppie said:


> Paying for insurance for a non-driven (stored) vehicle: Why would you do that?
> Every November, when my Scirocco is put away for her winter nap, I call my insurance co., and drop coverage to 'storage' (basically, comprehensive only.) No way in hell am I going to pay for collision (small $) and liability (silly $$ here), for a car that isn't leaving the garage for >4 months.


You can't do this in every state.

If I pulled the liability insurance on one of my cars, I'd also have to cancel the registration and turn the plates in. Then, in the spring, I'd have to get a new safety inspection, re-register, and re-insure.

It seems dumb to have to have insurance on every vehicle you own, as if you were driving each one of them 100% of the time, but that's the reality that many of us face.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

My car has 175/65-15 tires on 5-inch wide (lol) steel wheels (earlier Yarises came with 5.5-inch wide wheels and 185/60-15 tires). There are no fun tires in 185/60-15, the natural plus zero size, and only a few decent options in 175/65-15 which are pricey summer H-rated Michelin Energys (shares a size with the base Mini) and cost about $500 a set. I have them now and they have been great -- excellent all around when new, still really good when it's dry but starting to get a little slidey in the rain after about 25k miles.

I found that the BFG G-Force Sport comes in a 195/55-15 which would be a similar-enough diameter compared to the stock size and would only be about $330 installed at Discount Tire.

The tire info specs a 5.5-7 inch rim width so would the 195mm tire be too wide/squirmy on the 5-inch wheel? I had the OG version in 205/55-15s on my old Civic Si which came with 195/60-15s and they looked pretty stout on that car, so probably pretty amusing on a Yaris.


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## MGQ (Apr 16, 2002)

worth_fixing said:


> does anyone know if this was a real rally car? who was the driver/team? My friend is doing a watercolor painting for my son similar to this and I was just curious if this was an actual car.


I feel like I've seen that paint job on a 911 before, I don't know if it looked as "rally" as that painting though.\

guess I was thinking of this car:


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

cuppie said:


> Paying for insurance for a non-driven (stored) vehicle: Why would you do that?
> Every November, when my Scirocco is put away for her winter nap, I call my insurance co., and drop coverage to 'storage' (basically, comprehensive only.) No way in hell am I going to pay for collision (small $) and liability (silly $$ here), for a car that isn't leaving the garage for >4 months.


I, for example, can't. In NYS (at least with Amica), insurance can't cancel a car without a receipt from the DMV that you've shredded the plates. New plates would be a PITA and cost about the same as 3 mo insurance. And besides, at least I've got comprehensive in the meantime.



adrew said:


> The* tire info specs a 5.5-7 inch rim* width so would the 195mm tire be too wide/squirmy on the 5-inch wheel?


The safety aspects of tires are so important, I really wouldn't ignore a manufacturers recommendation like that. You could always use it as an excuse to treat yourself to some new wheels that will fit the tire properly. :thumbup:


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

ghost03 said:


> The safety aspects of tires are so important, I really wouldn't ignore a manufacturers recommendation like that. You could always use it as an excuse to treat yourself to some new wheels that will fit the tire properly. :thumbup:


Maybe if I find some take-offs/used ones on CL, but TPMS makes putting a cheap set of 4x100s on there so complicated these days. 

I did find these summer Hankooks which are nearly half the price of the Michelins I have now, might give them a shot if I can find some locally. My commute has been shortened from 45 minutes of angry unpredictableness to 2 minutes so I don't feel the need to spend as much on tires as I usually do.


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

adrew said:


> Maybe if I find some take-offs/used ones on CL, but TPMS makes putting a cheap set of 4x100s on there so complicated these days.


Could also try local junkyards. Obviously depends on what they get in, but IME (so long as you don't need to re-use the tires) there can be some good deals on wheels if you happen to time it right.


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## Dirtmvr (Feb 28, 2016)

MBrown said:


> I tried Googling "Porsche Rally Car #14". Saw lots of images, but nothing even similar.
> 
> I'm not much of a Porschephile, so I don't know if those colors (light blue, dark blue, red) mean anything in the Porsche world. but they are the colors of BMW's M Division.



maybe this one...

https://www.google.com/imgres?imgur...fgAhUKJDQIHc5RCGEQMwifAShaMFo&iact=mrc&uact=8


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

Surf Green said:


> You can't do this in every state.
> 
> If I pulled the liability insurance on one of my cars, I'd also have to cancel the registration and turn the plates in. Then, in the spring, I'd have to get a new safety inspection, re-register, and re-insure.
> 
> It seems dumb to have to have insurance on every vehicle you own, as if you were driving each one of them 100% of the time, but that's the reality that many of us face.





ghost03 said:


> I, for example, can't. In NYS (at least with Amica), insurance can't cancel a car without a receipt from the DMV that you've shredded the plates. New plates would be a PITA and cost about the same as 3 mo insurance. And besides, at least I've got comprehensive in the meantime.


 I'm sorry for you both. I guess that I'll count as a blessing that I can drop my outrageously expensive liability coverage on a winter-stored vehicle, without any more hassle than making a phone call, and signing & returning a "I understand that I can't drive this" form to my insurance co.


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## Silly_me (Jul 26, 1999)

cuppie said:


> more hassle than making a phone call, and signing & returning a "I understand that I can't drive this" form to my insurance co.


I don't even have to do that. The most issue I've had with insurance is when I salvage titled my bike, I had to fax them a copy of the new title before they would cover it with liability.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

For a car last sold new in 2013, when will the cost of factory replacement parts bottom out before scarcity and the end of production start driving the price up again?


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

cuppie said:


> I'm sorry for you both. I guess that I'll count as a blessing that I can drop my outrageously expensive liability coverage on a winter-stored vehicle, without any more hassle than making a phone call, and signing & returning a "I understand that I can't drive this" form to my insurance co.


You're lucky. The number of people driving without insurance is the reason for our draconian laws. Not that it's solved that problem.


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

Surf Green said:


> You're lucky. The number of people driving without insurance is the reason for our draconian laws. Not that it's solved that problem.


 We have the same problem here - cost is the reason. 
Ands, well, when you have insurance brokers / companies that will sell someone a 30-day policy (so they can renew their plate, only to 'oops, I forgot to renew that!')….. Yeah, uninsured vehicles are a problem here, too.


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

cuppie said:


> I'm sorry for you both. I guess that I'll count as a blessing that I can drop my outrageously expensive liability coverage on a winter-stored vehicle, without any more hassle than making a phone call, and signing & returning a "I understand that I can't drive this" form to my insurance co.


NY DMV charges you $1 to shred the plates too. First time they told me that I thought the lady at the desk was messing with me and I lol'd. Clearly not the first time someone reacted that way, she was like "sorry, it really is $1." :laugh:


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## VWmk3GTI (May 4, 2013)

Can you use 3M clearbra to protect headlights


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

cuppie said:


> I'm sorry for you both. I guess that I'll count as a blessing that I can drop my outrageously expensive liability coverage on a winter-stored vehicle, without any more hassle than making a phone call, and signing & returning a "I understand that I can't drive this" form to my insurance co.


I didn't even think about that, but Mass is the same way. You have to get insurance first, and have an RMV form stamped with proof of insurance, before you can register a car. If you lose insurance, they notify the DMV and your registration is automatically revoked (I understand most other states are the reverse, registration takes place first). There's no way to avoid full-time minimum coverage. You can get a discount for driving under 1500 miles/year, and I'm sure for antique plates (which also have driving restrictions). 

Technically, even a bad inspection sticker (or an uninspected car within a week of registering) will also cancel the registration, but I've tested that many times without issue...


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

thegave said:


> For a car last sold new in 2013, when will the cost of factory replacement parts bottom out before scarcity and the end of production start driving the price up again?


It depends heavily on the popularity of the model, but for example I drove a Mk2 until recently (the Mk2 Jetta being the best selling foreign sedan in the US for most of the 80s and 90s), after 20 years it got very hard to find quality parts (cheap junk will never go away though, lol). I think OEMs are required to provide repair support for 10 years minimum?



VWmk3GTI said:


> Can you use 3M clearbra to protect headlights


Lamin-X is a product that does that. 3M might make a similar product, but ClearBra might not be able to stand the heat of a headlamp for long.


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## beefjerky (Dec 18, 2014)

Can I bleed the master cylinder with a pressure bleeder or is bench bleeding the only option?


----------



## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

beefjerky said:


> Can I bleed the master cylinder with a pressure bleeder or is bench bleeding the only option?


 Absolutely you can use a pressure bleeder! 
Pro tips: 
1- pressure is your friend. The reservoir (on most any car) is usually rated for 2 bar (29psi) pressure. Take advantage of that. 
2- flow rate is also your friend. With the pressure bleeder on (and the reservoir actually under pressure), _and_ a bleeder screw open (follow Standard Sequence, or service manual for bleed order), press and release brake pedal five times. No, it won't pull air back in- remember, you have almost 30psi static pressure in the brake system right now.  
Wait until no more bubbles flow (min. 5 seconds), then close screw. Repeat in bleed sequence. 
If ABS equipped, follow up with bleed routine for hydraulic unit.


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## NashGTI (Mar 8, 2006)

cuppie said:


> 1- pressure is your friend. The reservoir (on most any car) is usually rated for 2 bar (29psi) pressure. Take advantage of that.




Something something B5 Passat, at least the first couple years. The reservoirs on those used to blow up on us all the time when I was a VW dealer tech when you'd use even the VW special tool pressure bleeding system.


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## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

what is that creates the 'turbo sound' ?


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

Dravenport said:


> what is that creates the 'turbo sound' ?


Turbine and compressor smushing air.


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## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

Cabin Pics said:


> Turbine and compressor smushing air.


So its not air escaping via blow off valve or something? Its just the turbo doing its thing?

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

Dravenport said:


> what is that creates the 'turbo sound' ?


Which one? There's many.  It's hard to describe them with words but I'll try.


"Pssshhh" (when you let off throttle): Diverter valve or blow-off valve letting out compressed air that has nowhere else to go since the throttle is shut/shutting.
Constant Suction Sound (in boost): Intake air being pulled in by the compressor
"Woooeeep" (Airy whistle going up in pitch as you build boost throttle): Turbine and Compressor spinning up. They're spin together on the same shaft and together are called the CHRA.
"Fa fa fa" (With longish periods at WOT and RPM): Wastegate letting exhaust bypass the turbine to keep boost in check. Not really a uniform sound, it adjusts as needed based on various maps.

Edit: called a blow-off valve a waste gate by mistake. They're absolutely different. :beer:


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## XClayX (Apr 30, 2005)

Are we hitting the age of standardized vehicle multimedia systems? Tesla has a full touchscreen interface as other manufacture following suit with screens 4" 6" 8" 12" etc. Dodge has a 12in screen. I feel eventually a 12-16" screen will be standard in most vehicle. Android Auto/Apple Car Play won't really be a choice. I'm thinking there will standardize the interfaces to things like havoc, radios, controls etc.

Thoughts? Personally I hope this happens. Overarching technological advancement moving today's "high tech" into every day items.

example Radio's AM to AM/FM to 8 tracks to cassette to CD's to multi-disk to touch screens. 


Will it happen? If so when? 2yrs? 5yrs?


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

XClayX said:


> Are we hitting the age of standardized vehicle multimedia systems? Tesla has a full touchscreen interface as other manufacture following suit with screens 4" 6" 8" 12" etc. Dodge has a 12in screen. I feel eventually a 12-16" screen will be standard in most vehicle. Android Auto/Apple Car Play won't really be a choice. I'm thinking there will standardize the interfaces to things like havoc, radios, controls etc.
> 
> Thoughts? Personally I hope this happens. Overarching technological advancement moving today's "high tech" into every day items.
> 
> ...


I doubt it...we've got CarPlay and Android Auto and those will get better, but there's too much in the way of "special sauce" for automakers to market. To take an extreme example, a Bentley customer probably doesn't want to see the same radio controls in their vehicle as a budget Daihatsu Kei car.

That said, as someone that ends in rentals a lot for work, it sure would be nice if I didn't have to learn all the different systems. :thumbup:


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

ghost03 said:


> Which one? There's many.  It's hard to describe them with words but I'll try.
> 
> 
> "Pssshhh" (when you let off throttle): Diverter valve or blow-off valve letting out compressed air that has nowhere else to go since the throttle is shut/shutting.
> ...


This is what I meant to say. :laugh: :laugh:


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## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

Cabin Pics said:


> This is what I meant to say. :laugh: :laugh:


lol


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

XClayX said:


> Are we hitting the age of standardized vehicle multimedia systems? Tesla has a full touchscreen interface as other manufacture following suit with screens 4" 6" 8" 12" etc. Dodge has a 12in screen. I feel eventually a 12-16" screen will be standard in most vehicle. Android Auto/Apple Car Play won't really be a choice. I'm thinking there will standardize the interfaces to things like havoc, radios, controls etc.
> 
> Thoughts? Personally I hope this happens. Overarching technological advancement moving today's "high tech" into every day items.
> 
> ...


Depends. Right now tech is slower because developers suck at UEx. Touchscreens that I have (albeit from 2012 and 2013) were small and difficult to press the correct spot. Not all manufacturers have caught on to what it means to drive and adjust things by touch.

My parent's XC60, on the other hand, offers simple adjustments either by touch or by voice. But alas, you still have to get to the correct menu item instead of turning a dedicated knob.


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## MBrown (Aug 1, 2000)

GreenandChrome said:


> Depends. Right now tech is slower because developers suck at UEx. Touchscreens that I have (albeit from 2012 and 2013) were small and difficult to press the correct spot. Not all manufacturers have caught on to what it means to drive and adjust things by touch.
> 
> My parent's XC60, on the other hand, offers simple adjustments either by touch or by voice. But alas, you still have to get to the correct menu item instead of turning a dedicated knob.


IMHO, VW took a huge step backward with the Mk7.5.

In my Mk7 GTI, there were hard buttons on the periphery of the screen, and a small lip at the bottom of the screen that you could use to steady your hand if you wanted to change something while moving.

On my Mk7.5 R, the hard buttons are now replaced with touch targets embedded in the screen so if, for example, you hit a small bump while trying to turn up the volume, you end up changing from radio to Media. And the touch targets don't work at all if you're wearing gloves. 

I like touch screens, but there's some stuff that still does better as hard buttons.


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

MBrown said:


> IMHO, VW took a huge step backward with the Mk7.5.
> 
> In my Mk7 GTI, there were hard buttons on the periphery of the screen, and a small lip at the bottom of the screen that you could use to steady your hand if you wanted to change something while moving.
> 
> ...


How about a combo of both just to f**k around? This doesn't show it, but for simulcast channels, that's a touch option, and super small touch buttons. 2013 Ford Sync is miles above this s**t.


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## MBrown (Aug 1, 2000)

GreenandChrome said:


> How about a combo of both just to f**k around? This doesn't show it, but for simulcast channels, that's a touch option, and super small touch buttons. 2013 Ford Sync is miles above this s**t.


That's kinda what the Mk7 had -- touchscreen in the center, but 8 or so hard buttons on the periphery.

I think the thing that pisses me off most about the Mk7.5 interface is that the two knobs are so close to the touch sensors for switching functions that it's almost impossible to use the knobs while the car is moving.

Admittedly, for the volume knob, you can use the button on the steering wheel. But for the other one -- the one you use to select phone numbers to dial or addresses for destinations -- it's a nuisance.

In general, I prefer the control knobs on the console anyway. Not fun trying to hold your arm up to adjust stuff if you've got a sore or injured shoulder. The iDrive controllers in my BMWs and the similar controller in my Miata are much easier to use. (FWIW, BMW started with the twin knobs on the instrument panel. That's what I had in my '97 528i, '00 540i/6, and '02 M5. Shortly after that, the console-mounted iDrive controller was introduced.)


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

GreenandChrome said:


> How about a combo of both just to f**k around? This doesn't show it, but for simulcast channels, that's a touch option, and super small touch buttons. 2013 Ford Sync is miles above this s**t.


That's the head unit in my dad's 2010 F250. It's horrid.


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## andlf (Feb 6, 2008)

I just happened to think of this thread today and thought I'd propose this question. When did the interior lights fading on and fading off become a thing? Both my Challenger and Camaro do this. Also, what was the first vehicles to do this?


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

andlf said:


> I just happened to think of this thread today and thought I'd propose this question. When did the interior lights fading on and fading off become a thing? Both my Challenger and Camaro do this. Also, what was the first vehicles to do this?


Someone else will have a better answer, but I distinctly remember when my dad got his '01-ish WJ Grand Cherokee, it did this and we were all blown away. :laugh:


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

andlf said:


> I just happened to think of this thread today and thought I'd propose this question. When did the interior lights fading on and fading off become a thing? Both my Challenger and Camaro do this. Also, what was the first vehicles to do this?


My E46 does it, it's a 2004 but I assume all of them from 99+ did it. Probably earlier models as well.

In other words, I'd say it's been at least 20 years.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

The Mk3 didn't. The Mk4 does. So somewhere around the turn of the century sounds like a fair time frame.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

Cabin Pics said:


> My E46 does it, it's a 2004 but I assume all of them from 99+ did it. Probably earlier models as well.
> 
> In other words, I'd say it's been at least 20 years.


interior lights that function properly on an E46 is more surprising to me. i wouldn't ever know if this function works because mine blink on for a fraction of a second, sometimes, and then turn off :laugh:


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## MBrown (Aug 1, 2000)

One feature that I had in my last several BMWs that I wish my VW had was that if the headlights were on when you shut the car off, the interior lights would come on. If there's stuff in the car I want to grab (my tablet, for example), having the light on makes it easier.


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## beefjerky (Dec 18, 2014)

cuppie said:


> Absolutely you can use a pressure bleeder!


Thanks for the tip, I got the motive bleeder and it cleared everything up.


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

A.Wilder said:


> interior lights that function properly on an E46 is more surprising to me. i wouldn't ever know if this function works because mine blink on for a fraction of a second, sometimes, and then turn off :laugh:


My spare tire is also only a year old, full sized. The battery is 16 months old, OEM BMW battery.

The folks that owned this car took really, really good care of it. I believe the suspension to be fresh as well, and I checked the cooling system, it's all new.

They were by the book maintenance people.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

are there really any differences between Volkswagen's TSI engines, and Audi's TFSI engines? Or is it just marketting? Is there a systematic/mechanical differences between the 2? The Q5 2.0T gets a good power bump over the Tiguan. Just a tune and a timing adjustment?

Is one more reliable/less prone to carbon buildup/less prone to oil consumption than the other?


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

Cabin Pics said:


> My spare tire is also only a year old, full sized. The battery is 16 months old, OEM BMW battery.
> 
> The folks that owned this car took really, really good care of it. I believe the suspension to be fresh as well, and I checked the cooling system, it's all new.
> 
> They were by the book maintenance people.


Mine was very well maintained and yet I still had a coolant leak problem, ended up being the brand new OEM expansion tank cap


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Does this motor sound healthy? It’s supposed to be gasoline but rattles like a diesel. Worn bearings? Engine is at operating temp here.


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## 0dd_j0b (Sep 22, 2007)

thegave said:


> Does this motor sound healthy? It’s supposed to be gasoline but rattles like a diesel. Worn bearings? Engine is at operating temp here.


Healthy would not be my first description. But I try to start with the best case scenario with trouble shooting,. Perhaps really bad exhaust leak?


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## 2112 (Jun 21, 2004)

Why are rear wipers not a thing on coupes or sedans?


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## NeverEnoughCars (Aug 2, 2013)

2112 said:


> Why are rear wipers not a thing on coupes or sedans?


They are in the rest of the world on some sedans and coupes.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

2112 said:


> Why are rear wipers not a thing on coupes or sedans?


Not useful on a coupe or sedan as wind rushing over the body clears rain and snow. The vertical rear of an SUV creates a negative air pressure at the rear window making dirt and snow and rain stick to the glass.


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## 2112 (Jun 21, 2004)

barry2952 said:


> Not useful on a coupe or sedan as wind rushing over the body clears rain and snow. The vertical rear of an SUV creates a negative air pressure at the rear window making dirt and snow and rain stick to the glass.


When I had my G6 coupe (and now with my roommate's G6 coupe), there have been plenty of times when the rear window just wouldn't clear. Perhaps I just needed to drive faster..."But officer, I was trying to generate enough air flow to clear my rear window!" :laugh:


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## UncleJB (Jul 3, 2002)

What is the typical life expectancy of a wheel bearing?


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

UncleJB said:


> What is the typical life expectancy of a wheel bearing?


100,000+ miles

Mine went out <80,000 in my MK3 but I drove it harder than most.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

UncleJB said:


> What is the typical life expectancy of a wheel bearing?


My 1933 Continental Flyer is riding on the original Timkin bearings. Lifespan is use-related, not time-related.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

UncleJB said:


> What is the typical life expectancy of a wheel bearing?


As said, 100k+ miles is a good target for (modern) sealed units. Tapered Roller bearings can vary, a lot, due to them being adjustable.

Sold the Mk3 with both original front bearings with 105k on them, and a lot of track/hard driving and 20mm spacers.
The rear tapered bearings had been replaced about 4 times in that time.

The Mk4 ate one front bearing at 80k which was odd. The one on the other side kept going until 160k. Both rear sealed bearings are still original at 197k.


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## UncleJB (Jul 3, 2002)

GreenandChrome said:


> 100,000+ miles
> 
> Mine went out <80,000 in my MK3 but I drove it harder than most.


Both of the wife's fronts just went at 80k in her Passat. 



barry2952 said:


> My 1933 Continental Flyer is riding on the original Timkin bearings. Lifespan is use-related, not time-related.


I meant miles - not time. 



Surf Green said:


> As said, 100k+ miles is a good target for (modern) sealed units. Tapered Roller bearings can vary, a lot, due to them being adjustable.
> 
> Sold the Mk3 with both original front bearings with 105k on them, and a lot of track/hard driving and 20mm spacers.
> The rear tapered bearings had been replaced about 4 times in that time.
> ...


As mentioned the wifes just went. I am just curious because I have never had to replace wheel bearings other than on one of my MK2s and that had almost 200k on the odo. I had my last wagon the longest in terms of miles and when I traded it with 160k it was still on original bearings.


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

I hate replacing bearings that are pressed.

Some of the newer cars that just use hub assemblies have made the process so much easier.


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

UncleJB said:


> What is the typical life expectancy of a wheel bearing?


As others have said, 100k is a reasonable average.

A delicately highway driven car could easily exceed that. A hard driven car might not get anywhere close. I tracked my Mk5 often with sticky tires and big brakes and wheel bearings were practically a maintenance item. :beer:


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## BrianC (Feb 16, 1999)

I just had the bearings replaced on both front wheels on my 4Runner...they lasted 122k miles.


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## RENOG (Jul 25, 2002)

Coming up on 200K in the 05' TSX no bearing issues yet, easy driven stop and go commuter.


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## DneprDave (Sep 8, 2018)

My 1998 Volvo V70 T5 has 300,000 miles on its original wheel bearings. It also has its original axles.
I've changed out a lot of other things, but not those.


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## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

Two-part used-car buying question...

(1) What does it mean if a car is low-mileage for its age? For example, a MY2016 with only 20k miles on it. Dealer demo? Service dept. courtesy car? A little old lady that only drove it to Church on Sundays?  

(2) On Cars.com and Autotrader.com, I’m seeing used car listings from “Carvana Certified.” They use stock photos instead of actual photos, and they only provide a general location (City, State) and a phone number for inquiries. Are they trying to be the Internet version of CarMax? Anyone buy a used car from them?



andlf said:


> I just happened to think of this thread today and thought I'd propose this question. When did the interior lights fading on and fading off become a thing? Both my Challenger and Camaro do this. Also, what was the first vehicles to do this?


My 1996 Olds Cutlass Supreme had this. GM couldn’t make quality interiors, design for maintainability, or make long-lasting alternators and fuel pumps, but by golly, I had “fading” interior lights


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

g-man_ae said:


> Two-part used-car buying question...
> 
> (1) What does it mean if a car is low-mileage for its age? For example, a MY2016 with only 20k miles on it. Dealer demo? Service dept. courtesy car? A little old lady that only drove it to Church on Sundays?
> 
> (2) On Cars.com and Autotrader.com, I’m seeing used car listings from “Carvana Certified.” They use stock photos instead of actual photos, and they only provide a general location (City, State) and a phone number for inquiries. Are they trying to be the Internet version of CarMax? Anyone buy a used car from them?


1- it could be any of those. Or none of those. It could have just sat for a long while before getting some use, or got some use then sat for a while. Or just very little overall use. The only way to know is to ask, and hope they’re telling the truth about it.

2- think amazon and carmax offspring- there’s no haggling and they deliver the car in question to you.


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## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

TwoLitreVW said:


> 2- think amazon and carmax offspring- there’s no haggling and they deliver the car in question to you.


There's a big assumption there (buying used) that the car in question is every bit as awesome as the listing would indicate. I know they "guarantee" condition and claim it will even be completely detailed before the sale, but it's still a leap of faith to buy a used car sight unseen.


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## Hawk (May 7, 2010)

Why do I early apex?


----------



## troyguitar (Dec 10, 2014)

Hawk said:


> Why do I early apex?


Too much porn.


----------



## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

g-man_ae said:


> (1) What does it mean if a car is low-mileage for its age? For example, a MY2016 with only 20k miles on it. Dealer demo? Service dept. courtesy car? A little old lady that only drove it to Church on Sundays?
> 
> (2) On Cars.com and Autotrader.com, I’m seeing used car listings from “Carvana Certified.” They use stock photos instead of actual photos, and they only provide a general location (City, State) and a phone number for inquiries. Are they trying to be the Internet version of CarMax? Anyone buy a used car from them?



1. Potentially any of the above, and more. That's one thing that carfax can help shed a lot of light on. If after the first owner it spent a year bouncing around to different used car lots that's probably a bad sign. If it was owned the whole time by one owner that's probably a good sign. But as always with used cars, there's no guarantees.

2. Sort of like online Carmax. Cross it with Tesla's web ordering; they're removing negotiation from the process but also human interaction. Personally I haven't and won't, too many variables with a used car no matter how many points they inspect.


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## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

ghost03 said:


> Sort of like online Carmax. Cross it with Tesla's web ordering; they're removing negotiation from the process but also human interaction. Personally I haven't and won't, too many variables with a used car no matter how many points they inspect.


Agreed. Even manufacturers and their dealerships can't be trusted with their own CPO process.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

g-man_ae said:


> Two-part used-car buying question...
> 
> (1) What does it mean if a car is low-mileage for its age? For example, a MY2016 with only 20k miles on it. Dealer demo? Service dept. courtesy car? A little old lady that only drove it to Church on Sundays?
> 
> ...


We sold our Ford edge to carvana. Did 99% of the stuff online, guy came to pick it up, checked it out for about 5 min and drove off with it on his trailer. It's car buying for melinnials who don't want to do BS like haggling and waiting hours for paperwork at a dealership.


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

Does the position of rotors change anything as far as braking goes ?

Also, does this car have 2 on the rears ?


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

PainKiller said:


> Does the position of rotors change anything as far as braking goes ?
> 
> Also, does this car have 2 on the rears ?


Position of the calipers doesn't really matter. In the world of 10/10ths, you want the maximum weight possible to be between the axles. Did Audi run two calipers on the rear for the ebrake? Or is this a photoshop?


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

PainKiller said:


> Does the position of rotors change anything as far as braking goes ?
> 
> Also, does this car have 2 on the rears ?


Twin calipers on the rear is “a thing” for high end high performance cars, one for driving, one for the parking brake. I think divorcing the parking brake is supposed to reduce rotating mass


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## g-man_ae (Jun 20, 2001)

Not a question but a comment / op-ed: Rain-X sucks. It makes the wiper blades chatter, and it confuses VW's auto-wiper rain sensors. My auto-wipers work way better without than with.










PS: Don't search Google Images for "rainx" at work unless you want to get fired.


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

g-man_ae said:


> Not a question but a comment / op-ed: Rain-X sucks. It makes the wiper blades chatter, and it confuses VW's auto-wiper rain sensors. My auto-wipers work way better without than with.
> 
> 
> PS: Don't search Google Images for "rainx" at work unless you want to get fired.


Why? Do you work for Prestone or something? All I get are yellow bottles.

Rain-X works great. Until you flip your wipers on. I ran Rain-X for about a year when my wipers were broken. (yes, in Washington State no less)


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

Do they sell 1/2 bottles of oil? my car needs something like 6.5 L of oil, but no one sells .5L of oil. Every 13th oil change is free? :beer:


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## boogetyboogety (Jun 22, 2016)

andlf said:


> I just happened to think of this thread today and thought I'd propose this question. When did the interior lights fading on and fading off become a thing? Both my Challenger and Camaro do this. Also, what was the first vehicles to do this?





g-man_ae said:


> My 1996 Olds Cutlass Supreme had this. GM couldn’t make quality interiors, design for maintainability, or make long-lasting alternators and fuel pumps, but by golly, I had “fading” interior lights


First time I saw those, I went on a blind date with a Dallas Cowboy's cheerleader in the very early '80s (true story)... When we walked to her car, she had a brand-new light blue Nissan 200SX that had those dimming courtesy lights and she thought that was the coolest thing ever (it also "spoke" and had a cool graphic equalizer display). That was the first time I ever saw them... I was much more infatuated with her pom poms, however. :laugh:


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

A.Wilder said:


> Do they sell 1/2 bottles of oil? my car needs something like 6.5 L of oil, but no one sells .5L of oil. Every 13th oil change is free?


Nope, I recommend keeping the extra stored appropriately in case you need to top off. Also, if you buy 7L of oil in 1L bottles, the first 6 won't drain completely. Odds are you'll need .6 or so from the last one.



PainKiller said:


> Does the position of rotors change anything as far as braking goes ?


The calipers? Not really an important change for braking. For handling, it's marginally better to keep them toward the inside of the vehicle for centralized mass, and many sports cars will do this, from Miata to GT2RS.



PainKiller said:


> Also, does this car have 2 on the rears ?


It's a means to an end, generally in aftermarket installs. Those huge 6-pot calipers likely either don't have a linkage for a parking brake cable or don't have the right kind, so they add a basic caliper that does.


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

GreenandChrome said:


> Did Audi run two calipers on the rear for the ebrake? Or is this a photoshop?


Most likely an aftermarket install; they would've had to purchase or fabricate a mount. I've seen this done before where people will make one (errr...two) for themselves and then produce a few more to sell to other tuners. I hope they know what they're doing very well.


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## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

ghost03 said:


> The calipers? .


Yes sorry, that should have said the position on the rotors, not of


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

PainKiller said:


> Yes sorry, that should have said the position on the rotors, not of


Oh np. And fwiw I wasn't trying to be pedantic, some vehicles actually have rotors in different places. Monster trucks for example put them on the propshafts so I was ready for that question too. :laugh:


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

ghost03 said:


> Oh np. And fwiw I wasn't trying to be pedantic, some vehicles actually have rotors in different places. Monster trucks for example put them on the propshafts so I was ready for that question too. :laugh:


E-type rear rotors are inboard next to the differential. I guess other Jags with the rear IRS were the same. (And any hot rod with a "Jag rear end".)


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

PainKiller said:


> Does the position of rotors change anything as far as braking goes ?
> 
> Also, does this car have 2 on the rears ?


In addition to what others have said, having the front calipers mounted behind the axle makes installing brake cooling ducts much easier since the caliper isn't in the way.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

I’m doing research on turbo maintenance and I get that idling before shut down is important to prevent oil coking (no water cooled turbo, no turbo timer), but I’ve read a couple of comments to suggest that revving the motor while idling is not a good thing. My question is why not? I’d think a little bit of revving would be helpful to circulate the oil since it raises the oil pressure.


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## XClayX (Apr 30, 2005)

thegave said:


> I’m doing research on turbo maintenance and I get that idling before shut down is important to prevent oil coking (no water cooled turbo, no turbo timer), but I’ve read a couple of comments to suggest that revving the motor while idling is not a good thing. My question is why not? I’d think a little bit of revving would be helpful to circulate the oil since it raises the oil pressure.


I'd assume it would be bad as the oil pressure would fluctuate when the turbo would likely still be spinning at a high RPM. As soon as the RPM's are near idle the oil pressure drops.


I just found out "RAM" is the brand, not "Dodge RAM".


----------



## Quinn1.8t (Oct 8, 2006)

XClayX said:


> I just found out "RAM" is the brand, not "Dodge RAM".


Only since 2011


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

XClayX said:


> I'd assume it would be bad as the oil pressure would fluctuate when the turbo would likely still be spinning at a high RPM. As soon as the RPM's are near idle the oil pressure drops.
> 
> 
> I just found out "RAM" is the brand, not "Dodge RAM".


yeah i still don't know why they did that. you're not fooling a single person; everyone knows that whether you're buying a Ram, Viper, Challenger SRT, 300, Wrangler or a Caravan, you're buying from the same brand who brought us the Neon and the Acclaim.


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## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

worth_fixing said:


> yeah i still don't know why they did that. you're not fooling a single person; everyone knows that whether you're buying a Ram, Viper, Challenger SRT, 300, Wrangler or a Caravan, you're buying from the same brand who brought us the Neon and the Acclaim.


awkward since the neon is actually by far and away the best car on this list of cars.


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

thegave said:


> I’m doing research on turbo maintenance and I get that idling before shut down is important to prevent oil coking (no water cooled turbo, no turbo timer), but I’ve read a couple of comments to suggest that revving the motor while idling is not a good thing. My question is why not? I’d think a little bit of revving would be helpful to circulate the oil since it raises the oil pressure.





XClayX said:


> I'd assume it would be bad as the oil pressure would fluctuate when the turbo would likely still be spinning at a high RPM. As soon as the RPM's are near idle the oil pressure drops.


Does oil pressure drop at idle? Of course! But, so long as the engine is running, oil is moving. 
The reason to NOT rev the engine is that the goal is to let the turbo spin down and cool down, before you shut the engine down. Rev the engine, and the turbo will spool back up, throwing that idle time right out the window.


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## VarianceVQ (Jun 26, 2005)

Are a good set of winter tires really the cure-all for any and all RWD winter worries? Do they prove to be just as stable as FWD?

I admit I'm a skeptic but have been doing some research of sorts. Makes me wonder why more people don't go that route (especially if they're willing to swap snows on FWD and AWD/4WD vehicles).


----------



## beefjerky (Dec 18, 2014)

VarianceVQ said:


> Are a good set of winter tires really the cure-all for any and all RWD winter worries? Do they prove to be just as stable as FWD?
> 
> I admit I'm a skeptic but have been doing some research of sorts. Makes me wonder why more people don't go that route (especially if they're willing to swap snows on FWD and AWD/4WD vehicles).


From my personal experience: I had a ranger with mud and snow rated all terrains, only used 4wd once to get out of a ditch after letting an oncoming plow pass on a narrow road. I just got through a very mild winter with my crown vic on all seasons (Continental Extremecontact DWS 06), not terrible but not great either. Anything over 2-3" was tough. My boss struggled (as in the cars were borderline undrivable) in his Golf R on summer tires, as well as his STI the year before. My coworker put blizzaks on his Evo 9, the car was unstoppable (in a good way). So yeah, tires make a huge difference.


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## DonL (Feb 28, 1999)

VarianceVQ said:


> Are a good set of winter tires really the cure-all for any and all RWD winter worries? Do they prove to be just as stable as FWD?
> 
> I admit I'm a skeptic but have been doing some research of sorts. Makes me wonder why more people don't go that route (especially if they're willing to swap snows on FWD and AWD/4WD vehicles).





beefjerky said:


> From my personal experience: I had a ranger with mud and snow rated all terrains, only used 4wd once to get out of a ditch after letting an oncoming plow pass on a narrow road. I just got through a very mild winter with my crown vic on all seasons (Continental Extremecontact DWS 06), not terrible but not great either. Anything over 2-3" was tough. My boss struggled (as in the cars were borderline undrivable) in his Golf R on summer tires, as well as his STI the year before. My coworker put blizzaks on his Evo 9, the car was unstoppable (in a good way). So yeah, tires make a huge difference.


There are a number of threads here, and videos and website that support Mr. Beef, too. Anecdotally, in snow, it's not unheard of that people out-accelerated a couple of SUVs/CUVs riding on all-weathers while they had dedicated snow-and-ice tires. When it's really nasty out and we have to go somewhere, Mrs. DonL wants to take my car rather than her Impreza with AS tires. I ran Dunlop Graspics and now Michelin X-Ices.


----------



## atomicalex (Feb 2, 2001)

All the winter tyres, please.

The advantage of winter tyres is two-fold - the compounds remain pliable at lower temperatures, and the tread blocking and siping allows for catching transient grip when big tread block would break looks and not regrip.


----------



## MGQ (Apr 16, 2002)

I know we've done threads but I've done RWD on winter tires and it was not only doable but probably better than most front wheel drive/all season combos I've done. Mustang GT/General Altimax.


----------



## Dal97GLX (Jun 14, 2001)

Does your brake pedal move when cruise control is engaged? Occasionally, I would sense movement or I thought i did. Do your brake lights engage as well? Does it work with crash avoidance equipped cars also?


----------



## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

VarianceVQ said:


> Are a good set of winter tires really the cure-all for any and all RWD winter worries? Do they prove to be just as stable as FWD?
> 
> I admit I'm a skeptic but have been doing some research of sorts. Makes me wonder why more people don't go that route (especially if they're willing to swap snows on FWD and AWD/4WD vehicles).


stable? dunno what that means. depends on the skill of your right foot. 

snow tires on RWD is perfectly fine, and far better than all seasons on FWD/AWD.


----------



## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Dal97GLX said:


> Does your brake pedal move when cruise control is engaged? Occasionally, I would sense movement or I thought i did. Do your brake lights engage as well? Does it work with crash avoidance equipped cars also?


I am 99% sure the pedal doesn't drop in ours, but I can hear an actuator humming when it brakes on its own and it does light up the brake lights. This is when the radar cruise is on - I don't know about panic braking/auto-stop.


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

MGQ said:


> I know we've done threads but I've done RWD on winter tires and it was not only doable but probably better than most front wheel drive/all season combos I've done. Mustang GT/General Altimax.


I don't know... I have gotten stuck in my Mustang in ways I would not have in a FWD car. It is only better at speed, IMO.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Dal97GLX said:


> Does your brake pedal move when cruise control is engaged? Occasionally, I would sense movement or I thought i did. Do your brake lights engage as well? Does it work with crash avoidance equipped cars also?


As far as I know, regular cruise does not use the brakes. In all my VWs, if the car accelerated past the set speed (say downhill), it would just not engage the throttle until it needs to (ie an uphill causes you to slow down). In some Fords I've driven with regular cruise, they engine brake down to the set speed (self-downshifting and all, which is really handy). 

Radar cruise uses brakes like you would, and does use the brake lights too.


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

My car has drum brakes on the rear axle. One wheel spins freely and silently. The other spins less freely and emits a sporadic scraping sound as if part of the shoe is dragging on the cylinder. I was told that there should be some contact between the shoe and the disc, and that in fact it is the first wheel that needs to be tightened.

Anyone care to chime in?


----------



## MGQ (Apr 16, 2002)

thegave said:


> My car has drum brakes on the rear axle. One wheel spins freely and silently. The other spins less freely and emits a sporadic scraping sound as if part of the shoe is dragging on the cylinder. I was told that there should be some contact between the shoe and the disc, and that in fact it is the first wheel that needs to be tightened.
> 
> Anyone care to chime in?


That's generally what I was taught/read when I had to adjust my own drum brakes on my old VW. You should *just* hear some scuffing, but not enough to have a noticable drag on the wheel when it's jacked up.


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## NashGTI (Mar 8, 2006)

yes, you should hear the shoe scrape the drum (usually for part of the rotation of the axle) but feel very little drag. If you back it off the the point where it is completely free spinning the brake won't apply enough to really stop anything.


----------



## PainKiller (Oct 3, 2007)

My little brother is looking at an 06 A4, It just broke 100,000 miles, is there any questions you should specifically ask about this car?


----------



## Aseras (Dec 2, 2010)

worth_fixing said:


> yeah i still don't know why they did that. you're not fooling a single person; everyone knows that whether you're buying a Ram, Viper, Challenger SRT, 300, Wrangler or a Caravan, you're buying from the same brand who brought us the Neon and the Acclaim.


Profit and financial reporting. Spinning RAM off as a separate brand lets them show a high profit center company and diversify. Having it in with the rest of the "family" picking up the slack doesn't look as good.
It's all beancounter BS to show growth and losses for financial reporting purposes.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I wonder how having RAM as a dedicated brand affects Dodge's CAFE.


----------



## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

PainKiller said:


> My little brother is looking at an 06 A4, It just broke 100,000 miles, is there any questions you should specifically ask about this car?


2.0T or 3.2? The 2.0T engines had trouble with the HPFP eating through a cam follower and damaging itself and the intake camshaft, typically in the 80k to 100k range on an otherwise stock car. There was an extended warranty campaign but it might be over now. Would be worth investigating if the cam follower or camshaft were ever replaced. If never replaced, it will likely need at least a cam follower and perhaps a camshaft/pump too.

If it's failing, you might observe fuel cuts on the highway (temporary decelerations).


----------



## TheDarkEnergist (Aug 22, 2009)

VDub2625 said:


> I wonder how having RAM as a dedicated brand affects Dodge's CAFE.


I believe it all falls under FCA, so Fiat offsets that.


----------



## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

Let's say I wanted to run my high-beam headlights with the engine off for a few hours. To keep the battery from getting discharged, could I safely hook up a battery charger at, let's say, 10 amps? Sure, it might not keep up fully, but it'll certainly slow the rate of discharge. Any harm to the car's electrical system or the charger in doing this? If it makes any difference, I have a Schumacher automatic charger not unlike this one (I think mine is an older model). https://www.batterychargers.com/en/...358-10a-6v12v-fully-automatic-battery-charger


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

what is the best manual transmission that could easily be found in a scrap yard sourced from a front-wheel drive car?

by best, i mean one that can hold the most power, the most abuse, and the longest lifespan without the need to change anything at all. in addition, a slick and precise shift and sychros that can cope with large speed differentials without any fuss.


----------



## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

IJM said:


> Let's say I wanted to run my high-beam headlights with the engine off for a few hours. To keep the battery from getting discharged, could I safely hook up a battery charger at, let's say, 10 amps? Sure, it might not keep up fully, but it'll certainly slow the rate of discharge. Any harm to the car's electrical system or the charger in doing this? If it makes any difference, I have a Schumacher automatic charger not unlike this one (I think mine is an older model). https://www.batterychargers.com/en/...358-10a-6v12v-fully-automatic-battery-charger


Assuming your brights are 55 watts, they would draw 4.58 amps each. A 10 amp charger then would obviously keep up (assuming no other draw). 

No real harm to be done to the car. Your alternator probably puts out 10 times that charger. I wouldn't worry about it at all.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

worth_fixing said:


> what is the best manual transmission that could easily be found in a scrap yard sourced from a front-wheel drive car?
> 
> by best, i mean one that can hold the most power, the most abuse, and the longest lifespan without the need to change anything at all. in addition, a slick and precise shift and sychros that can cope with large speed differentials without any fuss.


My first thought is something from a J-series (V6) or K-series (2-2.4-liter DOHC 4-cylinder) Honda. They are snicky and precise and I never had any issues with the synchros in mine, aside from not wanting to go into 2nd when it was below freezing. They are quick but you will get a small snatch/scratch if you try to slam it into gear without waiting a fraction of a second for them to spin up. It has great feel and you can tell when the synchros are ready through the shifter. I would double clutch mine, like going into 2nd at 60 MPH coming up to an off-ramp and it would snick right in.


----------



## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

Let's say one were going to warm up their car before driving, by idling for one minute. Would putting it in drive add any warming-up, as more heat is generated in the torque converter when it's engaged?


----------



## Strange Mud (Oct 20, 2017)

you will build up more heat, enough to make much of a difference who knows.

I see LA in your sig.....is that wrong or why are you warming up your car?


----------



## fastinradford (Aug 3, 2010)

cockerpunk said:


> awkward since the neon is actually by far and away the best car on this list of cars.




idiot thinks neon best car ever:thumbdown:


----------



## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

cityjohn said:


> Let's say one were going to warm up their car before driving, by idling for one minute. Would putting it in drive add any warming-up, as more heat is generated in the torque converter when it's engaged?


It'll certainly warm up the transmission faster.


----------



## cockerpunk (May 17, 2010)

fastinradford said:


> idiot thinks neon best car ever:thumbdown:


quotes exact post that specifically states the opposite of his summary, calls me an idiot 

lol


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

IJM said:


> It'll certainly warm up the transmission faster.


so will a brake stand. :beer:


----------



## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

worth_fixing said:


> what is the best manual transmission that could easily be found in a scrap yard sourced from a front-wheel drive car?
> 
> by best, i mean one that can hold the most power, the most abuse, and the longest lifespan without the need to change anything at all. in addition, a slick and precise shift and sychros that can cope with large speed differentials without any fuss.


What car is it going in and/or what engine will it be mated to? YMMV but I think it'd be easier to beef up internals on something that fits than try to fit something that doesn't. If it's a serious project, you'll probably want to upgrade the diff anyway.


----------



## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

Surf Green said:


> so will a brake stand. :beer:


----------



## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

Strange Mud said:


> you will build up more heat, enough to make much of a difference who knows.
> 
> I see LA in your sig.....is that wrong or why are you warming up your car?


Yes, I’m in LA so we just start and drive, but it got below 50 last month and it got me wondering.


----------



## Quinn1.8t (Oct 8, 2006)

cityjohn said:


> Yes, I’m in LA so we just start and drive, but it got below 50 last month and it got me wondering.


Oh man, I hope you plugged in your block heater


----------



## Strange Mud (Oct 20, 2017)

John,

get in, start it up, wait 5 seconds then drive. if you go to ski country you can wait up to 30 seconds (single digits and below).

CSB: I lived in SC and had a car that had the best heater I've ever had in a car.....till I moved back to NH.

Mud


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Fact or fiction?

I once read a list of tips for maximizing your fill ups. Bear in mind this was published in the UK which doesn't have vapor whatever collectors at the pump; I'm not sure whether that makes a difference. The only two that I remember and practice regularly are:

1. Pump slower to reduce vapor losses due to turbulence (or something)
2. Pump (early) in the morning when the ground (and tank) are cool because the fuel is denser

How much truth and how much difference would those really make, say over the course of a 14 gallon tank.

Also say the air temperature delta between early morning and other times is 10'C. I have no idea how that would translate to the change in an underground tank. But I live in sunny California so the imagine the ground bakes in the sun all day.


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

thegave said:


> Fact or fiction?
> 
> I once read a list of tips for maximizing your fill ups. Bear in mind this was published in the UK which doesn't have vapor whatever collectors at the pump; I'm not sure whether that makes a difference. The only two that I remember and practice regularly are:
> 
> ...


Gas pressure does increase with heat. We've set our 5-gal plastic gas jugs in the sun and they gain pressure, meaning something inside is expanding; either vapor or liquid expansion. I've never actually taken an X amount of cold fuel and let it heat up and measure the difference.

Also, tanks are buried in the ground so the argument about hot vs cold really loses steam. The ground stays at a pretty constant temperature, with monthly or seasonal fluctuations, not daily. At least, not that far deep.

I think my dad finally stopped shaking the car after filling up; he may still do it, I don't know.


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

cityjohn said:


> Yes, I’m in LA so we just start and drive, but it got below 50 last month and it got me wondering.


better put some 0w-30 in 'er.


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## Strange Mud (Oct 20, 2017)

max fill ups:

fill till it shuts off, wait 30 secs for foam to subside then re-fill. Not recommended but it works (evap overflow canister)

The science geek in me knows fuel is denser when cold and thinks early AM might matter but as mentioned it's underground temp variation is minimal.

just curious why?

edit: my dad bounced the car too!


----------



## beefjerky (Dec 18, 2014)

I just bought a car that's been sitting for over a year and the power steering seems to be dead. Is there anything I should try and diagnose or just go straight to replacing the pump?


----------



## canadacraig (Nov 23, 2004)

beefjerky said:


> I just bought a car that's been sitting for over a year and the power steering seems to be dead. Is there anything I should try and diagnose or just go straight to replacing the pump?


Check the fluid. Leaks?


----------



## 1x1 (Jul 30, 2016)

GreenandChrome said:


> I think my dad finally stopped shaking the car after filling up; he may still do it, I don't know.





Strange Mud said:


> edit: my dad bounced the car too!



I shake my 80 after the fuel auto stops, and before I top off. My charcoal canister is on its way out, and the shake seems to allow a bit of extra pressure to escape before I fire the last 20 cents into it. It could all be in my head though too.


----------



## 0dd_j0b (Sep 22, 2007)

beefjerky said:


> I just bought a car that's been sitting for over a year and the power steering seems to be dead. Is there anything I should try and diagnose or just go straight to replacing the pump?





canadacraig said:


> Check the fluid. Leaks?


System might need to be bled out also.


----------



## bc (Sep 24, 2001)

beefjerky said:


> I just bought a car that's been sitting for over a year and the power steering seems to be dead. Is there anything I should try and diagnose or just go straight to replacing the pump?


Is the belt intact? If it's a Subaru then they have a tendency to grenade the pulley after awhile.


----------



## fizay (Oct 10, 2008)

I have a GX/4Runner with a transfer case that is leaking post-roadtrip. Mud/clay was involved, and apparently a piece of dirt was lodged into the front seal somewhere. 

It is super-weeping. 

An old man on mud mentioned I can WD40 the seal and use an air hose to clear our the WD. Then brakleen it and it should eject (eventually).

Anyone got any similar recs for weepy seals? 

I really would rather not pull the T case and clear or put in a new seal. Gear oil makes me gag for some reason.


----------



## Tripicana (Dec 17, 2004)

I've used 35mm film negatives to clean out mud from dirt bike fork seals. Thin, flexible, slips right in, and the little advance squares pickup and trap the crud.


----------



## fizay (Oct 10, 2008)

That's brilliant. Old school kodakhrome, or will Tri-X suffice?


----------



## dirtyfingers (Apr 29, 2007)

Are timing belts manufactured after a car production ends?

In other words lets say a model goes out of production and no other models/makes use that specific timing belt. Do the manufacturers stock up in one last run and cease production for good?

If that's the case any concerns about these belts aging on a shelf somewhere? Even if they are in a warehouse they are still subject to the rubber itself aging, no?


----------



## Strange Mud (Oct 20, 2017)

yes...because 99% of the time they are used in other applications too.


----------



## beefjerky (Dec 18, 2014)

Can I change the timing belt tensioner on a 1.8t without removing the belt itself? Service was done 30k miles ago but the tensioner went bad.


----------



## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

What is going on with the 2019 Camaro front LEDs?










whenever i see it it makes me think of the shrug emoji ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ except _/¯ ¯\_ 

At least the older styles made sense to me. The single circles were kind of retro.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

beefjerky said:


> Can I change the timing belt tensioner on a 1.8t without removing the belt itself? Service was done 30k miles ago but the tensioner went bad.


Yes, as long as you're careful to keep the belt tensioned so it doesn't skip.


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

A.Wilder said:


> What is going on with the 2019 Camaro front LEDs?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## Hawk (May 7, 2010)

jebglx said:


> Go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask...


How can a God of love allow suffering?


----------



## Silly_me (Jul 26, 1999)

Hawk said:


> How can a God of love allow suffering?



As long as there is a market, the Camry will be sold. God is a capitalist.


----------



## NeverEnoughCars (Aug 2, 2013)

Hawk said:


> How can a God of love allow suffering?


Easy.
There is no god.


----------



## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

Hawk said:


> How can a God of love allow suffering?


Easy. Free will plus consequences of actions = suffering.


----------



## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

Just purchased a 2019 3 and noticed something I have trouble explaining. Anyone know how this could happen?

Odometer :100km









Trip A and B: 102.2km









Thanks :beer:


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## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

Hawk said:


> How can a God of love allow suffering?


Because if we didn’t have things that sucked from time to time, how would we know when things are awesome?


Also, stop playing with imaginary friends.


----------



## canadacraig (Nov 23, 2004)

Care to explain the “doc fee” usually around $500? to me absolute bovine scatology. Would def walk away if they didn’t eat that one right off the bat


----------



## alex_bgnet (Jan 7, 2004)

Trying to order some parts for my Audi and have never had to pick between LCI/pre-LCI parts used in the same year based on VIN, the dilema: 

from VIN 4E7010182

The other option is:

to VIN 4E7010181

Let's say my VIN is WAULV4*4E17N005424*.

Using alphanumerical sort, my VIN appears to be falling into the *to VIN 4E7010181* bucket, correct?


----------



## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Re: the mileage discrepancy -- maybe the odometer is not counting the miles put on the car while in transport/shipping mode.


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

adrew said:


> Re: the mileage discrepancy -- maybe the odometer is not counting the miles put on the car while in transport/shipping mode.


Records reverse distance on Trip meters, but not on odometers.


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

alex_bgnet said:


> Trying to order some parts for my Audi and have never had to pick between LCI/pre-LCI parts used in the same year based on VIN, the dilema:
> 
> from VIN 4E7010182
> 
> ...


if your VIN is correct, then yes. 

but your example has too many digits when comparing them to the range.


----------



## alex_bgnet (Jan 7, 2004)

GreenandChrome said:


> if your VIN is correct, then yes.
> 
> but your example has too many digits when comparing them to the range.


That is the real VIN and the ranges are given as shown. I am assuming they are the trailing numbers based on the similarities of the first few digits which denote the model.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Last 6 is sequential, before or after that point, for the same model year, is what they are saying.


----------



## homerdash (Jan 13, 2008)

this is my 06 S60 nearing 95k miles, the higher pitched fan/whine in the mix has become quite loud as of late. Anyone able to give any more info? Mainly wondering if lots of other things will break when that fan breaks.

It's the sound that is much fainter as i move to the passenger side and it's much louder on driver


----------



## alex_bgnet (Jan 7, 2004)

Can you pinpoint where the whine is coming from?


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

homerdash said:


> this is my 06 S60 nearing 95k miles, the higher pitched fan/whine in the mix has become quite loud as of late. Anyone able to give any more info? Mainly wondering if lots of other things will break when that fan breaks.
> 
> It's the sound that is much fainter as i move to the passenger side and it's much louder on driver


video link no worky.

high pitch so maybe turbo?


----------



## homerdash (Jan 13, 2008)

alex_bgnet said:


> Can you pinpoint where the whine is coming from?


i think the likely area is to the right of engine, possibly more towards the middle/firewall of the bay instead of the front.

sorry if the video link was broken, i'm on tapatalk so i guess the YT tag didn't work. raw link below until i get on a desktop

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CwsGpFQurk


----------



## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

2.0_Mazda said:


> Just purchased a 2019 3 and noticed something I have trouble explaining. Anyone know how this could happen?
> 
> Odometer :100km
> 
> ...


On the BMW factory tour, they told us that they are allowed to reset the odometer one time so long as it's below 20km or so, so that they can deliver a car without the factory dyno miles on the odometer. I'm _guessing _the 2.2km was on a dyno at the end of the assembly line, and the odo was reset but not the trip meter. Hard to say.


----------



## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

i've always wondered this

so many of us would agree that some of the best shifting manual transmissions are the older Honda trans found in Integras and Civic Si's. But regardless of what you actually prefer, we can all agree that the older manual transmissions from Honda just felt so much better to shift than just about anything on the market today. (if I'm wrong, correct me since I haven't driven every manual car available to man).

I understand engines needing serious change to cope with emissions regulations (thus losing character) but manual transmissions and clutch interaction should be pretty much completely unchanged, unless you're perfecting it. Having driven quite a few recent manual cars (including my Mazda3) it gets me wondering why every manual transmission ever produced today doesn't drive and feel as good as the best manual ever built.

Why is that? Why do some manuals (engineered today) feel spongy, vague, lock you out of a gear on occasion, have "lazy" synchros, have long spongy clutch engagement, notchy crunchy shift feel...etc. Would manufacturers not have weeded out all of the things that didn't work well with their old manuals 20 years ago? Did they not drive a competitor's car at some point and say "oh sh!t, yeah that's nice lets do that". How come a brand new Corolla shifts like your cutting cheese cake with a wooden spoon, or a 2017 Subaru Impreza STILL shift like moving a spatula in a tuna can full of coins?

and question 2; what hardware differences have the better transmissions had that made them so much better than the others?


----------



## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

nothing yet, eh? no trans experts out there?


----------



## SourKrout (Oct 17, 2008)

worth_fixing said:


> nothing yet, eh? no trans experts out there?


I'm with ya on this one, My 1995 Integra and 96 Miata were the two best shifting cars I've ever owned. Many newer manual transmission cars later from American/European manufacturers and nothing has come close.


----------



## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

worth_fixing said:


> nothing yet, eh? no trans experts out there?


I'll take a shot. Manufacturers invest in what makes money--if someone says, "hey, we could improve shift feel by investing $X million in new MT tooling and design", it's pretty easy for the execs to shoot down as it will be hard to profit. I don't think there's any technical limitations such as material scarcity/regulation etc. that have changed (it's mostly just steel, aluminum, and brass after all)-- but people lining up to buy them has.

As far as what's different? A few things; if less money is spent, then less time is spent on getting the dimensions and materials just right, the parts aren't going to be built with the same precision, etc. Think about a rifle action; companies like Remington spend a lot of time and money getting those parts very precise and well engineered. Meanwhile, I could produce a similar motion with a dowel and a PVC pipe, but it wouldn't be nearly as well functioning.

And FWIW the 6MTs in late-model Porsches and M-cars are still pretty good. Short throws, stiff clutches, and notchy in the right ways. Miata's probably isn't the best but it's not bad either. :beer:


----------



## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

Also a secondary theory for the crappier feeling shifters. Torque numbers are much higher than golden era Honda’s. For higher rated trans, all the moving parts have to be beefier. 
And for FWD applications, I believe most modern cars are cable shifters, instead of a linkage. I know with VWs, the shifter feel went downhill when they switched to cable. At least in my opinion. I am currently in the process of switching a later cable trans to rod linkage in my rabbit, and I am really curious how it’s gonna feel.


----------



## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

Bad Rabbit Habit said:


> And for FWD applications, I believe most modern cars are cable shifters, instead of a linkage. I know with VWs, the shifter feel went downhill when they switched to cable. At least in my opinion. I am currently in the process of switching a later cable trans to rod linkage in my rabbit, and I am really curious how it’s gonna feel.


True. A linkage can have slop in it, but in general a cable will probably have a little more. That said, many great shifters such as 911s have cables to the rear transaxles.


----------



## UncleJB (Jul 3, 2002)

worth_fixing said:


> nothing yet, eh? no trans experts out there?


I agree with you. My '91 DX hatch (purchased new) still hangs in my memory as one of the smoothest shifting cars I've owned.


----------



## MBrown (Aug 1, 2000)

I've had 17 cars. Sixteen of them had clutch pedals -- the outlier was a 2014 BMW M5 with the dual-clutch transmission. The first was a 1975 Oldsmobile Starfire (old dude here!). The 16 included one Toyota (1982 Supra), one Mercedes (1988 190e 2.3), eight BMWs (three of which were proper M cars [2002 e39 M5, 2008 e90 M3, 2014 f10 M5]), four VWs, and a Mazda. In general, the RWD cars have had the better shifters. I think they've been a mix of ZF and Getrag, although I think Mercedes actually built their own.

The BMWs all had pretty good shifting action, though it got harder and harder to drive smoothly as HP ratings went up. The last manual BMW I had was a 2011 550i M Sport -- 400 HP, 400 lb-ft. My current Miata has a pretty nice, smooth gearbox, too, and all of 155 HP.

But the car that still sticks out in my mind as having an amazingly sweet shift was -- of all things -- a 1985 Peugeot 505 Turbo. 

My BMWs had very nice shift knobs -- either leather or walnut or both. Relatively short throws, nicely weighted and sprung well for accurate shifting. The Peugeot had a long lever, and the knob was hard plastic. But the action was so perfectly weighted and sprung, and the knob so perfectly placed that the car could have been designed just for me. Start out in first; hands on the wheel at 9 and 3. Run up through first (waiting for the damn turbo to FINALLY spin up), let go of the wheel with my right hand and drop my arm, palm down. Open palm lands on the lever, shifting from first to second perfectly. Two to three was a light shove with the palm. Three to four, as easy and accurate as 1 - 2, four to five took a little more intent, but was still amazingly accurate.

All these years later, I still remember how satisfying it was to shift that transmission.


----------



## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

MBrown said:


> I've had 17 cars. Sixteen of them had clutch pedals -- the outlier was a 2014 BMW M5 with the dual-clutch transmission. The first was a 1975 Oldsmobile Starfire (old dude here!). The 16 included one Toyota (1982 Supra), one Mercedes (1988 190e 2.3), eight BMWs (three of which were proper M cars [2002 e39 M5, 2008 e90 M3, 2014 f10 M5]), four VWs, and a Mazda. In general, the RWD cars have had the better shifters. I think they've been a mix of ZF and Getrag, although I think Mercedes actually built their own.
> 
> The BMWs all had pretty good shifting action, though it got harder and harder to drive smoothly as HP ratings went up. The last manual BMW I had was a 2011 550i M Sport -- 400 HP, 400 lb-ft. My current Miata has a pretty nice, smooth gearbox, too, and all of 155 HP.
> 
> ...


I genuinely enjoyed reading that.


----------



## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

ghost03 said:


> I'll take a shot. Manufacturers invest in what makes money--if someone says, "hey, we could improve shift feel by investing $X million in new MT tooling and design", it's pretty easy for the execs to shoot down as it will be hard to profit. I don't think there's any technical limitations such as material scarcity/regulation etc. that have changed (it's mostly just steel, aluminum, and brass after all)-- but people lining up to buy them has.
> 
> As far as what's different? A few things; if less money is spent, then less time is spent on getting the dimensions and materials just right, the parts aren't going to be built with the same precision, etc. Think about a rifle action; companies like Remington spend a lot of time and money getting those parts very precise and well engineered. Meanwhile, I could produce a similar motion with a dowel and a PVC pipe, but it wouldn't be nearly as well functioning.
> 
> And FWIW the 6MTs in late-model Porsches and M-cars are still pretty good. Short throws, stiff clutches, and notchy in the right ways. Miata's probably isn't the best but it's not bad either.


that seems to make the most sense...but I still have a hard time grasping how much money would be needed engineer (or re-engineer?) a manual trans from ok to good, or from good to great. seems to me you find a good recepe and you stick to it for good (since so few things will need to change). it can't be millions of $ of R&D; they did it just fine ages ago.

anyway, thanks a lot guys for pitching in.


----------



## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

ghost03 said:


> True. A linkage can have slop in it, but in general a cable will probably have a little more. That said, many great shifters such as 911s have cables to the rear transaxles.


I know, right? it can't just be a rod vs linkage thing. i feel not all syncros are created equally. mine in my car don't feel half as good as the ones in my old 2001 Mazda Protege. You could punch any gear as hard as you wanted and it would always ALWAYS take it like a champ. My current 2014 Mazda3 sometimes can't even cope with the mildest of revv variations with the gentlest push...kinda of frustrating feeling a crunch when you know you did everything you could to make that shift as smooth as humanly possible. And so I wondered...


----------



## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

worth_fixing said:


> it can't be millions of $ of R&D; they did it just fine ages ago.


Right, they definitely know how to produce good boxes. Presumably if costs are being avoided they are in QC, tooling, manufacturing processes, materials, etc.

This is a purely hypothetical example that I'm making up to illustrate the idea, but let's say there's some expensive brass alloy that has _just_ the right amount of zinc and _the_ perfect grain structure for a great feeling shift. 20 years ago, a gearbox company could spend time and money chasing down suppliers of that alloy and negotiating a good volume discount. Today, they don't make enough MT's to qualify for the discount nor have enough time to negotiate it properly--and without discount the alloy is too expensive--so instead of raising prices on a unit with dwindling sales, they switch to a cheaper but inferior alloy.


----------



## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

ghost03 said:


> Right, they definitely know how to produce good boxes. Presumably if costs are being avoided they are in QC, tooling, manufacturing processes, materials, etc.
> 
> This is a purely hypothetical example that I'm making up to illustrate the idea, but let's say there's some expensive brass alloy that has _just_ the right amount of zinc and _the_ perfect grain structure for a great feeling shift. 20 years ago, a gearbox company could spend time and money chasing down suppliers of that alloy and negotiating a good volume discount. Today, they don't make enough MT's to qualify for the discount nor have enough time to negotiate it properly--and without discount the alloy is too expensive--so instead of raising prices on a unit with dwindling sales, they switch to a cheaper but inferior alloy.


ahhhh. well said.

ok, makes sense actually. thanks a lor for your input.


----------



## fastinradford (Aug 3, 2010)

ghost03 said:


> Right, they definitely know how to produce good boxes. Presumably if costs are being avoided they are in QC, tooling, manufacturing processes, materials, etc.
> 
> This is a purely hypothetical example that I'm making up to illustrate the idea, but let's say there's some expensive brass alloy that has _just_ the right amount of zinc and _the_ perfect grain structure for a great feeling shift. 20 years ago, a gearbox company could spend time and money chasing down suppliers of that alloy and negotiating a good volume discount. Today, they don't make enough MT's to qualify for the discount nor have enough time to negotiate it properly--and without discount the alloy is too expensive--so instead of raising prices on a unit with dwindling sales, they switch to a cheaper but inferior alloy.


hmmm interesting. i like your theory.

I have the transmission out of a 1990 corrado in my rabbit pickup.

I believe its never been apart. and it still shifts amazingly.

and it explains why honda made such amazing manual transmissions, because they bought huge bulk of manuals.

It sucks cars are designed by "bean counters"


----------



## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

worth_fixing said:


> ahhhh. well said.
> 
> ok, makes sense actually. thanks a lor for your input.


Thanks, no problem. :beer:




fastinradford said:


> and it explains why honda made such amazing manual transmissions, because they bought huge bulk of manuals.
> 
> It sucks cars are designed by "bean counters"


FWIW, I didn't mean it was materials necessarily, but the idea of volume paying dividends. And yeah, penny pinching can be a pain and I hate when it becomes obvious in the product, but at least cars are still somewhat affordable. :beer:


----------



## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

How long can I drive on this without it being dangerous. Car has 8500km, didn't even buy my damn winter tires yet and I need to replace my summer.

I'm planning on installing my winter's in about a month and a half. I do about 500km per week so another 3000km until the summer's are off the car.

Thanks 









Sent from a telephone while driving


----------



## ValveCoverGasket (Mar 20, 2002)

youll feel it bump around like a badly out of balance wheel, more and more, as you get closer to failure.

i had one of those on a nearly new tire when we had our cla. it got worse and worse until i couldnt really stand it anymore and had to have it replaced.


----------



## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

8500 km? Try the dealer see what they do?

I wouldn't drive on that very long.


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

2.0_Mazda said:


> How long can I drive on this without it being dangerous. Car has 8500km, didn't even buy my damn winter tires yet and I need to replace my summer.
> 
> I'm planning on installing my winter's in about a month and a half. I do about 500km per week so another 3000km until the summer's are off the car.
> 
> ...


you should have a tire warranty that would cover that defect. 

I've driven a couple hundred miles on a tire that had a bulge on the inside (towards inside the car, not inside the tire). I couldn't see it because my S-10 had a whopping 3" ground clearance up front. First day I had it I couldn't tell because we had a snowmageddon (3 hours to work, normally 45mins). Second day there was a slight vibration that I thought was compact snow and ice. I told my dad when I got home and he looked at it and found the bulge. My mom got angry with me, like a tire manufacturing defect was somehow my fault.


----------



## AZGolf (Jun 6, 2000)

GreenandChrome said:


> you should have a tire warranty that would cover that defect.
> 
> ...
> 
> My mom got angry with me, like a tire manufacturing defect was somehow my fault.


You're saying defect, but that looks exactly like how a tire starts to fail after hitting a hard pothole or brick in the road and it damages the steel belts inside. I'm not even sure how someone would tell for sure without doing an X-Ray of the tire, and obviously nobody ever does that. How often to tire warranties get denied when they look like pothole damage? I've only had it happen once to me and I was reasonably close to needing new tires anyway so I just purchased new tires rather than try to get one covered.


----------



## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

Elite_Deforce said:


> 8500 km? Try the dealer see what they do?
> 
> I wouldn't drive on that very long.


I'll see if they're willing to replace it out of goodwill. I think I'll be sh!t out of luck



GreenandChrome said:


> you should have a tire warranty that would cover that defect.
> 
> I've driven a couple hundred miles on a tire that had a bulge on the inside (towards inside the car, not inside the tire). I couldn't see it because my S-10 had a whopping 3" ground clearance up front. First day I had it I couldn't tell because we had a snowmageddon (3 hours to work, normally 45mins). Second day there was a slight vibration that I thought was compact snow and ice. I told my dad when I got home and he looked at it and found the bulge. My mom got angry with me, like a tire manufacturing defect was somehow my fault.


Unfortunately not a tire defect. Road hazards... Montreal roads. 



AZGolf said:


> You're saying defect, but that looks exactly like how a tire starts to fail after hitting a hard pothole or brick in the road and it damages the steel belts inside. I'm not even sure how someone would tell for sure without doing an X-Ray of the tire, and obviously nobody ever does that. How often to tire warranties get denied when they look like pothole damage? I've only had it happen once to me and I was reasonably close to needing new tires anyway so I just purchased new tires rather than try to get one covered.


Bingo. I smacked a typical Montreal pothole. It was on the crest of a hill, had all of a few feet to avoid it. I might try to get them to warranty it anyways. 

Thanks guys for your help!

:beer:


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

2.0_Mazda said:


> Bingo. I smacked a typical Montreal pothole. It was on the crest of a hill, had all of a few feet to avoid it. I might try to get them to warranty it anyways.
> 
> Thanks guys for your insights!
> 
> :beer:


If you do it right, you can claim that from the city.


----------



## 2.0_Mazda (Nov 3, 2010)

Elite_Deforce said:


> If you do it right, you can claim that from the city.


Yeah... Quebec is good at not taking blame for their BS roads. For $200, don't want to spend too much time fighting the Ministère des Transports.

I'll give my dealership a try and see how it works.



> *Damage to a vehicle - Holes in the roadway*
> 
> Q. My vehicle was damaged because of a hole in the roadway. What recourse do I have?
> 
> ...


----------



## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

If they compensate you, it will be on a good will basis if it can be established on the balance of probabilities that the pothole was unavoidable. Also, you would be claiming to the VdeM, not the province (unless it was on a provincial highway).


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## bombardi (Mar 28, 2004)

Have any of you had to replace the manufacturer VIN sticker that is on the door jam after body work has been done?

I recently found out the VIN sticker on my M2 is missing. I reached out to the previous driver, he claims the car was parked on the street when a lady backed up into the driver rear quarter panel. Said it was minor and gave me info of the shop that did the work. I reached out to the shop and they wouldn't give me any information. They said I would have to go to the DMV about retrieving another sticker. I asked "I need to ask the DMV for a sticker that comes from the manufacturer?" They weren't much help obviously. 

Shouldn't the shop still have the sticker or be able to replace it? Has anyone been in a similar situation? Is this situation bigger than what I believe?

Carfax report showed the car is clean, although I did notice a vague "service report" done by a "service facility". I either missed it or didn't think much about it. The car was straight and paint job was done really well. Although I did notice a very minor crease across the rear pillar 

Is this something that could be replaced at all?

TIA


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## bnkrpt311 (Apr 22, 2010)

bombardi said:


> Have any of you had to replace the manufacturer VIN sticker that is on the door jam after body work has been done?
> 
> I recently found out the VIN sticker on my M2 is missing. I reached out to the previous driver, he claims the car was parked on the street when a lady backed up into the driver rear quarter panel. Said it was minor and gave me info of the shop that did the work. I reached out to the shop and they wouldn't give me any information. They said I would have to go to the DMV about retrieving another sticker. I asked "I need to ask the DMV for a sticker that comes from the manufacturer?" They weren't much help obviously.
> 
> ...


I'd try the dealership first.

Could this be it?

https://www.getbmwparts.com/oem-par...vPW0yJnk9MjAxOCZ0PWJhc2UmZT0zLTBsLWw2LWdhcw==


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

There should actually be both a 'tire pressure info' label (linked to above), and a VIN / certification label. 
They are available as 'spare parts', thru your friendly dealer parts dept. And, yes, the body shop that fixed the car should have taken care of that, as part of the repair. Boo on them, and boo on the PO for not making sure it happened then.


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## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

what's up with the plastic grille piece as seen here:










I've only ever seen it on hyundai/kia/genesis cars i think, but it's not particularly attractive


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## VWestlife (Sep 29, 2004)

Dravenport said:


> what's up with the plastic grille piece as seen here:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


It's for the adaptive cruise control:

https://jalopnik.com/car-designers-need-to-quit-hiding-radar-emitters-in-gri-1794677512


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

It's the radar unit for cruise and auto braking.

Some are better integrated...









...than others









Most Toyotas hide it inside the badge on the front — but if they don't have the badge, it's gotta go somewhere.


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## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

hah i was wondering why toyota badges looked so weird lately


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

bombardi said:


> Have any of you had to replace the manufacturer VIN sticker that is on the door jam after body work has been done?
> 
> I recently found out the VIN sticker on my M2 is missing. I reached out to the previous driver, he claims the car was parked on the street when a lady backed up into the driver rear quarter panel. Said it was minor and gave me info of the shop that did the work. I reached out to the shop and they wouldn't give me any information. They said I would have to go to the DMV about retrieving another sticker. I asked "I need to ask the DMV for a sticker that comes from the manufacturer?" They weren't much help obviously.
> 
> ...


Dealership can get the sticker for you. May have to speak to someone above the parts desk. They will probably want verification that you do own the car.

I just got mine ordered, wasn't bad. Less than $50.


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## fizay (Oct 10, 2008)

Bit of a quagmire. I bought a 95 BMW E36 M3 in Boston Green. It was an impulse buy and I needed automotive validation. It's straight but needs a lot of TLC. Clear coat is done, floors are dented in from PO missing the jack points (or hitting something idk) and interior work. VCG is also leaking INTO the freakin spark plug well, despite replacement and RTV It's also got some cracking on the strut tower and likely on the subframes or RTAB or swaybar mount. 

I like it well enough but I don't love it. Kinda at a lost of what to do with it. Dunno if it'll even pass smog. 

What would TLC do? I'd post in the E36 thread, but this thread seems like it'll get the most objective response.


----------



## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

fizay said:


> Bit of a quagmire. I bought a 95 BMW E36 M3 in Boston Green. It was an impulse buy and I needed automotive validation. It's straight but needs a lot of TLC. Clear coat is done, floors are dented in from PO missing the jack points (or hitting something idk) and interior work. VCG is also leaking INTO the freakin spark plug well, despite replacement and RTV It's also got some cracking on the strut tower and likely on the subframes or RTAB or swaybar mount.
> 
> I like it well enough but I don't love it. Kinda at a lost of what to do with it. Dunno if it'll even pass smog.
> 
> What would TLC do? I'd post in the E36 thread, but this thread seems like it'll get the most objective response.


Depends on your patience, both for finishing the project and for frustration. If you don't mind committing to a project that's going to [realistically] last over a year, don't mind rapping your knuckles now and then and getting dirty often, and knowing there's a chance you might find something you can't fix, nothing there sounds all _that _terrible. On a car like that if you take it slow, fix one thing at a time, eventually you'll have it sorted. But if you try to power through everything in two weeks, you'll end up wanting to take a sledgehammer to it.

Biggest thing to overcome is the cracks; I would probably consult with bimmerpost on those, someone must've dealt with it before. I'd definitely want to make sure there's a fix (and available parts!) for those things before getting started. Good luck!


----------



## 557688 (Aug 21, 2010)

What happens if you don't put DEF/Blue stuff into a modern Diesel (Mercedes)?


----------



## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

Mr Miyagi said:


> What happens if you don't put DEF/Blue stuff into a modern Diesel (Mercedes)?


It will de-rate and make no power


----------



## simple (Mar 29, 2001)

Mr Miyagi said:


> What happens if you don't put DEF/Blue stuff into a modern Diesel (Mercedes)?


The computer will refuse to run the vehicle. My Q5 gives messages when the DEF is low. If you ignore until empty it will shut down the car.


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## XClayX (Apr 30, 2005)

I was told at one time to always follow the door card tire pressure recommendations and NOT on the tire. Example, lets say your OEM tires are 33psi max and you replace them with 44psi max tires. Anyone else hear this before? I've always just ran what the tire says.


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

XClayX said:


> I was told at one time to always follow the door card tire pressure recommendations and NOT on the tire. Example, lets say your OEM tires are 33psi max and you replace them with 44psi max tires. Anyone else hear this before? I've always just ran what the tire says.


tire.


----------



## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

XClayX said:


> I was told at one time to always follow the door card tire pressure recommendations and NOT on the tire. Example, lets say your OEM tires are 33psi max and you replace them with 44psi max tires. Anyone else hear this before? I've always just ran what the tire says.


Door card = pressure recommend for running
Printed on tire = do not exceed pressure

IMO the only times you shouldn't run the door card pressure is:

If you know specifically why to run something else (e.g. track use, off road use, etc.)
You're using a different size tire from what's listed
The tires are rated lower than the door card. But you shouldn't be using those tires on that car in this case.


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

simple said:


> The computer will refuse to run the vehicle. My Q5 gives messages when the DEF is low. If you ignore until empty it will shut down the car.


Yep. It gives you so many miles/starts and then it won't start until it's refueled. DEF isn't expensive or difficult to fill though, so IMO there's no good reason not to.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

XClayX said:


> I was told at one time to always follow the door card tire pressure recommendations and NOT on the tire. Example, lets say your OEM tires are 33psi max and you replace them with 44psi max tires. Anyone else hear this before? I've always just ran what the tire says.


Tires typically cite a maximum safe cold inflation pressure which, for car tires, ranges between 44 and 51 pounds.
The door jamb is the manu's recommended tire pressure.

Most people follow the door jamb. I go higher than that for less rolling resistance, but typically don't get close to the pressure limitation on the tire.


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## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

ghost03 said:


> Door card = pressure recommend for running
> Printed on tire = do not exceed pressure
> 
> IMO the only times you shouldn't run the door card pressure is:
> ...


:thumbup:


----------



## Bonk2Hossa (Feb 21, 2009)

I am not afraid but it's moreso a stupid question most likely, which I am okay with. 

So my future wheel/tire plan is to use my current OEM 18 inch wheels and put snow tires on them for winter. Then for non-winter I wanted to get a new set of wheels/tires, but most likely they are going to be 17 inch.

So essentially my question is, is swapping from an 18 inch to a 17 inch tire back and forth going to mess with the car at all year after year? My 3.6R Outback comes with the 18 inch 225/60/R18, but a lot of Outbacks also come in the 225/65/R17, so if I used that rim and tire I assume there would be no problem swapping in and out?


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

Bonk2Hossa said:


> So essentially my question is, is swapping from an 18 inch to a 17 inch tire back and forth going to mess with the car at all year after year? My 3.6R Outback comes with the 18 inch 225/60/R18, but a lot of Outbacks also come in the 225/65/R17, so if I used that rim and tire I assume there would be no problem swapping in and out?


As long as the wheel clears the calipers, and doesn't rub, downsizing will be fine. I put 16" steel wheels on my wife's 2015 Forester, and they didn't rub. I don't know if the 3.6R brakes are bigger.

As far as tires... And as long as the outer diameter of the tire is really close, it won't cause any problems with the car. The 225/60-18 and 225/65-17 are very close, and will be fine.

I would recommend that you put the snows on the 17's, as they'll have taller and softer sidewalls, which is good for the colder weather and potholes. Most people use bigger wheels on the summer higher performance tires.


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## Bonk2Hossa (Feb 21, 2009)

Surf Green said:


> As long as the wheel clears the calipers, and doesn't rub, downsizing will be fine. I put 16" steel wheels on my wife's 2015 Forester, and they didn't rub. I don't know if the 3.6R brakes are bigger.
> 
> As far as tires... And as long as the outer diameter of the tire is really close, it won't cause any problems with the car. The 225/60-18 and 225/65-17 are very close, and will be fine.
> 
> I would recommend that you put the snows on the 17's, as they'll have taller and softer sidewalls, which is good for the colder weather and potholes. Most people use bigger wheels on the summer higher performance tires.


Thanks for the response. Yeah I know its weird putting the snows on the 18s but I was like I have the OEM wheel, why not use it for snow tires and then get the wheel/tire package I want for most my driving throughout the year? That way I have two sets of wheels to swap in and out and I wouldnt have to buy 17 inch wheel for snow tires too, or swap the tires off the 17 inch wheel back and forth.


----------



## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

why does the charger GT feel slower than my BMW 128i? and does it have a sport mode or anything that would make it feel any 'sportier'?


----------



## CostcoPizza (Jan 20, 2008)

Here's a stupid question.

If you took the turbos off a modern car, tuned the ECU to compensate, would it produce the same amount of emissions?

Or are turbos not only increasing power, but assisting with pollution in some way too?




Dravenport said:


> why does the charger GT feel slower than my BMW 128i? and does it have a sport mode or anything that would make it feel any 'sportier'?


It's a good 500lbs heavier and 25" longer...that's why. :laugh:


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## VR6JH (Jan 3, 2016)

Dravenport said:


> why does the charger GT feel slower than my BMW 128i? and does it have a sport mode or anything that would make it feel any 'sportier'?


What? Probably because it is? It’s a big, heavy, V-6 full-size sedan. Not going to be sporty. The R/T and up has a sport mode, it sure about the base V-6 cars


----------



## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

CostcoPizza said:


> Here's a stupid question.
> 
> If you took the turbos off a modern car, tuned the ECU to compensate, would it produce the same amount of emissions?
> 
> Or are turbos not only increasing power, but assisting with pollution in some way too?


Roughly the same. Turbos of course aren't like a catalytic converter or direct injection directly doing anything with emissions. Not going to be _exactly _the same though, because the shift pattern of the transmission, throttle duty cycle (which should favor the turbo), and AFRs (which should favor the N/A) being different over the same drive between the two.

I just looked up the 2005 A3, which incidentally was available in Europe with the well known 2.0TFSI as well as the mechanically-similar-sans-turbo 2.0FSI. Both were Euro4 compliant, with the N/A motor putting out 178g/km CO2 and the turbo putting out <7% more at 190g/km.


----------



## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Driven calmly, probably, yeah. Aren't those CO2 figures kind of optimistic, with mostly steady cruising, though? A same-size engine with and w/o a turbo is going to inject a LOT more fuel at WOT in the turbo version.

Most cars use 1 gallon per hour for every 10-15 horsepower. I would expect a 2-liter K20, 158-hp Civic LX to use about 10 GPH at WOT and 6000+ RPM. But I would expect the turbo K-series in the Accord, with 252 hp, to use 17-20 GPH at WOT.


----------



## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

adrew said:


> Driven calmly, probably, yeah. Aren't those CO2 figures kind of optimistic, with mostly steady cruising, though? A same-size engine with and w/o a turbo is going to inject a LOT more fuel at WOT in the turbo version.
> 
> Most cars use 1 gallon per hour for every 10-15 horsepower. I would expect a 2-liter K20, 158-hp Civic LX to use about 10 GPH at WOT and 6000+ RPM. But I would expect the turbo K-series in the Accord, with 252 hp, to use 17-20 GPH at WOT.


I wouldn't necessarily call them optimistic, maybe, 'anticipated'. Certainly the turbo is _capable _of drinking considerably more fuel, but given two separate universes with the same person driving each one, I don't think their average emissions would be out of line with the tests. :beer:


----------



## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

Why does the current Audi S range have a 3.0TT but the RS range have a 2.9TT? Wouldn't have been more economical to beef up the internals of one engine rather than create an entirely different engine? Or is it the same engine but with a short stroke? I don't know.


----------



## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

DonPatrizio said:


> Why does the current Audi S range have a 3.0TT but the RS range have a 2.9TT? Wouldn't have been more economical to beef up the internals of one engine rather than create an entirely different engine? Or is it the same engine but with a short stroke? I don't know.


It's the mostly the same engine; among other changes they reduced stroke by 3mm to lower compression for more boost. Kind of like the OEM version of a headgasket spacer.


----------



## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

Gotcha, thanks.


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

ghost03 said:


> It's the mostly the same engine; among other changes they reduced stroke by 3mm to lower compression for more boost. Kind of like the OEM version of a headgasket spacer.


you never reduce stroke.


----------



## CostcoPizza (Jan 20, 2008)

ghost03 said:


> Roughly the same. Turbos of course aren't like a catalytic converter or direct injection directly doing anything with emissions. Not going to be _exactly _the same though, because the shift pattern of the transmission, throttle duty cycle (which should favor the turbo), and AFRs (which should favor the N/A) being different over the same drive between the two.
> 
> I just looked up the 2005 A3, which incidentally was available in Europe with the well known 2.0TFSI as well as the mechanically-similar-sans-turbo 2.0FSI. Both were Euro4 compliant, with the N/A motor putting out 178g/km CO2 and the turbo putting out <7% more at 190g/km.


Thanks. :thumbup:

Sounds like BMW should give us a NA version of the B58 then. :laugh:


----------



## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

how possible is it to buy a car through the manufacturer rather than through the dealership? has anyone ever done this? does it really have to go through the established network of transportation, exchanges, prep, etc.? Could you not buy a brand new Canadian-spec car from Subaru Japan hot right off the press, and take care of shipping yourself?

So lets say you were a Canadian, and bought your Canadian-spec Subaru from Subaru Japan, registered it in your province before it being shipped, and obtain a Carnet de Passage for your car before it's left the country in which it was manufactured, drive it around in Japan for a little while, and then ship it to Canada yourself. Would I need to "register myself as an authorized Subaru dealer" in order to do this?

...asking for a friend.


----------



## whalemingo (Jan 30, 2011)

GreenandChrome said:


> you never reduce stroke.


You reduce the stroke length to slow down the piston speed. This allows you to rev it higher and faster.


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

whalemingo said:


> You reduce the stroke length to slow down the piston speed. This allows you to rev it higher and faster.


Big bore and long stroke is where's it's at, gentlemen.











:laugh:


----------



## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

worth_fixing said:


> how possible is it to buy a car through the manufacturer rather than through the dealership? has anyone ever done this? does it really have to go through the established network of transportation, exchanges, prep, etc.? Could you not buy a brand new Canadian-spec car from Subaru Japan hot right off the press, and take care of shipping yourself?
> 
> So lets say you were a Canadian, and bought your Canadian-spec Subaru from Subaru Japan, registered it in your province before it being shipped, and obtain a Carnet de Passage for your car before it's left the country in which it was manufactured, drive it around in Japan for a little while, and then ship it to Canada yourself. Would I need to "register myself as an authorized Subaru dealer" in order to do this?
> 
> ...asking for a friend.


So, Japanese euro-delivery? That’d be sweet, but I’m guessing not really feasible. We’ve done a Euro delivery twice and there’s all kinds of stuff that the manufacturer sets up for this to be possible (in terms of both policy and infrastructure!) and it’s still very much dependent on a local dealer as well.

Moreover, I wouldn’t want to drive a left hand drive car in a right hand drive country unless exceedingly comfortable with driving on the wrong side. If you really want that experience, I think you’d be better off getting a used JDM car that’s over the (15 year?) Canadian import period.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

There are laws (in the USA< I assume Canada is similar) that manufacturers are not allowed to sell direct. I remember the Tesla stores in malls etc being a big deal because of this (IIRC they referred your order to a local dealer). Euro delivery is the same, place it with a local dealer and the manufacturer handles the delivery process, but it is still purchased from a dealer.


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

VDub2625 said:


> There are laws (in the USA< I assume Canada is similar) that manufacturers are not allowed to sell direct. I remember the Tesla stores in malls etc being a big deal because of this (IIRC they referred your order to a local dealer). Euro delivery is the same, place it with a local dealer and the manufacturer handles the delivery process, but it is still purchased from a dealer.


Did you watch Adam Ruins Everything on this? :laugh:

Yeah, "buying direct" is pretty much impossible in the US. I don't know what the requirements are for those lucky souls who go pickup cars from the BMW/VW plants, drive them around to hit the mileage threshold, and then ship them to the states.


----------



## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

GreenandChrome said:


> Yeah, "buying direct" is pretty much impossible in the US. I don't know what the requirements are for those lucky souls who go pickup cars from the BMW/VW plants, drive them around to hit the mileage threshold, and then ship them to the states.


During delivery they have a specialist that walks you through that stuff. I don't remember there being any mileage requirements (I suppose there could have been), but the driving factor was the number of days, as they're paying for registration and insurance and still need to register it as a new car when it arrives. IIRC more than 2 weeks required special consideration; we were there longer one time and actually returned the car and rented something else for the rest of the trip.

Both times we put a bit over a thousand miles on the car, and the odometer reading when we dropped the car off is what appeared on our NY titles.


----------



## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

ghost03 said:


> During delivery they have a specialist that walks you through that stuff. I don't remember there being any mileage requirements (I suppose there could have been), but the driving factor was the number of days, as they're paying for registration and insurance and still need to register it as a new car when it arrives. IIRC more than 2 weeks required special consideration; we were there longer one time and actually returned the car and rented something else for the rest of the trip.
> 
> Both times we put a bit over a thousand miles on the car, and the odometer reading when we dropped the car off is what appeared on our NY titles.



Yeah, I don't remember the specifics; my cousin went to pick up his M5 over there and they spent a couple weeks for vacation there, driving it around.


----------



## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

Are there any parts in a modern car that are made of iron?


----------



## TwoLitreVW (Mar 16, 2000)

cityjohn said:


> Are there any parts in a modern car that are made of iron?


Yes.


----------



## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

cityjohn said:


> Are there any parts in a modern car that are made of iron?


 Crankshafts, manual transmission flywheels, diff housings all come to mind.....


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## cityjohn (Jul 9, 2002)

^ thanks


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

cityjohn said:


> Are there any parts in a modern car that are made of iron?


well, everything that is made of a particular grade of steel or an alloy conta8ning iron has iron, and in a car, that's most non-aluminum metals. A lot of structural (high strength) steel is used, any sheet metal panel (that isn't aluminum or composite) is steel which is mostly iron, anything transmitting power is usually made of steel (or aluminum), sometimes forged, sometimes cast, sometimes cold rolled & machined depending on its application.

But nothing on a car is made of pure iron. Iron naturally wants to bond to other molecules like oxygen, manganese, so you often find Fe2O3 or Fe3O4 in nature, which does't have many useful properties on a car. Iron is best used as an alloying element with Nickel, Chrome, Vanadium and Carbon to extract the best properties of each for a given application.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

What are iron blocks actually made out of? I assume it's some sort of alloy.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

VDub2625 said:


> What are iron blocks actually made out of? I assume it's some sort of alloy.


Iron.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

barry2952 said:


> Iron.


Better explanation. Iron is an element. There are other elements involve in iron making, but I wouldn't call it an alloy. However, I'm not a Metallurgist, so I may be wrong.


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## whalemingo (Jan 30, 2011)

barry2952 said:


> Better explanation. Iron is an element. There are other elements involve in iron making, but I wouldn't call it an alloy. However, I'm not a Metallurgist, so I may be wrong.



For engine blocks they typically use cast iron, more specifically Gray Cast Iron. Cast iron is a iron-carbon alloy. They use over 2% carbon typically, steel uses less than 2%. They also use silicon. That's about deep as my knowledge on that goes. I know there is different types of cast iron also, but those types aren't really used for automotive applications.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

barry2952 said:


> Better explanation. Iron is an element. There are other elements involve in iron making, but I wouldn't call it an alloy. However, I'm not a Metallurgist, so I may be wrong.


technically, any principal use of iron with a carbon content greater than 0.02% but less than 2% (and other elements) is called steel and is an alloy. Iron with a carbon content between 2% and 4% is called "cast iron" with many subcategories depending on their Silicon, Nickel, Manganese content, like grey cast iron, white cast iron, etc.

I'm a mechanical designer but I had to look this up. Honestly, I thought any iron-carbon alloy was technically called "steel" and the use of the "iron" terminology was technically wrong.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

whalemingo said:


> For engine blocks they typically use cast iron, more specifically Gray Cast Iron. Cast iron is a iron-carbon alloy. They use over 2% carbon typically, steel uses less than 2%. They also use silicon. That's about deep as my knowledge on that goes. I know there is different types of cast iron also, but those types aren't really used for automotive applications.





worth_fixing said:


> technically, any principal use of iron with a carbon content greater than 0.02% but less than 2% (and other elements) is called steel and is an alloy. Iron with a carbon content between 2% and 4% is called "cast iron" with many subcategories depending on their Silicon, Nickel, Manganese content, like grey cast iron, white cast iron, etc.
> 
> I'm a mechanical designer but I had to look this up. Honestly, I thought any iron-carbon alloy was technically called "steel" and the use of the "iron" terminology was technically wrong.


Thanks for that. I was with Barry and thought that the addition of carbon made it technically "steel". 

Can iron be forged like steel can, or do the precise quantities of carbon which actually make it considered steel make it more conducive to forging?


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## Baltimoron (Oct 10, 2001)

This spring I will be doing a lot of work on my wife's old GTI to get it running again. I'll probably have the car up on jackstands for a couple weeks, what's everyone's thoughts on how safe using a full 4x8 sheet of .75in plywood under the jackstands to have a stable work surface over a level grass/gravel parking pad? Unfortunately I don't have a garage or concrete pad to work on.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

Baltimoron said:


> This spring I will be doing a lot of work on my wife's old GTI to get it running again. I'll probably have the car up on jackstands for a couple weeks, what's everyone's thoughts on how safe using a full 4x8 sheet of .75in plywood under the jackstands to have a stable work surface over a level grass/gravel parking pad? Unfortunately I don't have a garage or concrete pad to work on.


I'm not a fan of that idea, especially if the contact area of the jack stands is minimal (pressed steel ones without feet _really_ fit this category).

Can you get some steel plates underneath the stands to spread the load evenly?


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## Baltimoron (Oct 10, 2001)

What thiccness steel plate would work?


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## boogetyboogety (Jun 22, 2016)

Baltimoron said:


> This spring I will be doing a lot of work on my wife's old GTI to get it running again. I'll probably have the car up on jackstands for a couple weeks, what's everyone's thoughts on how safe using a full 4x8 sheet of .75in plywood under the jackstands to have a stable work surface over a level grass/gravel parking pad? Unfortunately I don't have a garage or concrete pad to work on.


My totally serious reply would be, it might be OK, as long as you're not working under the car. I know I'm being super-cautious, but I have visions of one of the jack stands punching through the plywood_ while on the grass_ and and letting the whole enterprise crash down on your chest. I'm probably worrying too much but there it is.

On level _hard gravel _I wouldn't be as worried, however... I would try it and jump on the ends of the car a few times to test it first, before I got under it. I'm just overly cautious, I know.

Good luck!


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

Baltimoron said:


> What thiccness steel plate would work?


I can’t really say, but thick enough as not to deform under load. No, stacking thinner sheets doesn’t help much. Unless they’re (well) bonded.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

boogetyboogety said:


> My totally serious reply would be, it might be OK, as long as you're not working under the car. I know I'm being super-cautious, but I have visions of one of the jack stands punching through the plywood_ while on the grass_ and and letting the whole enterprise crash down on your chest. I'm probably worrying too much but there it is.
> 
> On level _hard gravel _I wouldn't be as worried, however... I would try it and jump on the ends of the car a few times to test it first, before I got under it. I'm just overly cautious, I know.
> 
> Good luck!


When working under a car I’m ALWAYS overly cautious. :beer:


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## Strange Mud (Oct 20, 2017)

I would feel safe going under jack stands and 3/4 ply


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

Baltimoron said:


> This spring I will be doing a lot of work on my wife's old GTI to get it running again. I'll probably have the car up on jackstands for a couple weeks, what's everyone's thoughts on how safe using a full 4x8 sheet of .75in plywood under the jackstands to have a stable work surface over a level grass/gravel parking pad? Unfortunately I don't have a garage or concrete pad to work on.


Unless it's treated plywood, I'd be cautious using any of that material for ground contact.
Advantech 3/4 OSB subfloor is pretty water resistant, but even that will begin to swell and get squishy after prolonged ground contact.

I have a pile of PT 2x12 scraps (16" long) that I put under jack-stands if I'm worried about the jack-stands sinking, or scraping the surface they're on.
Lengths of 6x6 and 4x4 PT post material are also good. 

Make sure whatever you do, make sure the base you're putting these materials on is completely flat.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

Surf Green said:


> Unless it's treated plywood, I'd be cautious using any of that material for ground contact.
> Advantech 3/4 OSB subfloor is pretty water resistant, but even that will begin to swell and get squishy after prolonged ground contact.
> 
> I have a pile of PT 2x12 scraps (16" long) that I put under jack-stands if I'm worried about the jack-stands sinking, or scraping the surface they're on.
> ...


I like the idea of treated wood to use as a footing for the jack stands. They could be fastened together and even have the jack stand itself screwed onto it somehow. That would spread the load out just as effectively as a steel plate, though because of the additional thickness I'd make sure they were plenty large so that the jack stand couldn't slip over to the edge and tip. That could be bad.

He's absolutely right about it contacting the ground, too. Since you're talking about an extended time it could soften considerably while you have it up there, making it more likely to fail. I think ideally in this situation you'd have perfectly flat gravel with good drainage around it, then a sheet of plastic, then another sheet of thin plywood to protect the plastic so that the bottom layer stays as dry as possible. Some kind of roll-on or brush-on paint/protectant might be even better and not need a protective sheet of plastic+plywood.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Paying for someone else to do the under car work is cheaper in the long run than medical bills or worse. I had an ambulance ride to the E.R. a few years ago and the fire department sent me a bill for $1,600.00. 

Renting a storage unit with a concrete floor is probably a lot cheaper. Ask if you can work on your car first and don't work on fuel system components. 

You probably know someone in the military who can sign into the base auto hobby shop. 

You have to reserve lifts and they never liked a car to be on a lift long term but you could leave one on jackstands indefinitely as long as you paid the daily fee. You would have to be signed in every day by a military member though.


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## JackJoachim (Jun 30, 2012)

Would anyone of you hesitate buying a new car from a dealer in a salt state? I'm from the south and rust scares me to death


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

JackJoachim said:


> Would anyone of you hesitate buying a new car from a dealer in a salt state? I'm from the south and rust scares me to death


Well, I've bought _all _of my new cars from a salt state! :laugh:

Unless it's something very high end, it was probably delivered in an open trailer and sat outside on a lot, so it is always possible that there was some salt exposure or snow that has been brushed off. That said, I seriously doubt it will be an issue to you, even 1-2 year old cars are typically still minty here. It's far more of a long term thing and it's not like salt instantly ruins a car, and moreover, when the weather is bad out people typically aren't going around test driving new cars anyway.

If you're really worried about it, find out how many miles the cars you're interested in are typically delivered with (it's usually in the 10-50 range) and ask the dealer what's on the odometer to see if there have been test drives.


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## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

Mazda only offers the 3 with a manual in the highest spec trim. Base price is $27,500. Are they mad? What's the reason? https://www.mazdausa.com/shopping-t...PR|20M3HPR2P&ex=46G&in=L_BY7&p=&ip=1PR&o=&io=


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

DonPatrizio said:


> Mazda only offers the 3 with a manual in the highest spec trim. Base price is $27,500. Are they mad? What's the reason? https://www.mazdausa.com/shopping-t...PR|20M3HPR2P&ex=46G&in=L_BY7&p=&ip=1PR&o=&io=


Probably found that those that must have a manual are willing to pay a premium.


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## Cabin Pics (Mar 20, 2008)

DonPatrizio said:


> Mazda only offers the 3 with a manual in the highest spec trim. Base price is $27,500. Are they mad? What's the reason? https://www.mazdausa.com/shopping-t...PR|20M3HPR2P&ex=46G&in=L_BY7&p=&ip=1PR&o=&io=


I think at this point we should just be happy they offer a manual at all.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

DonPatrizio said:


> Mazda only offers the 3 with a manual in the highest spec trim. Base price is $27,500. Are they mad? What's the reason? https://www.mazdausa.com/shopping-t...PR|20M3HPR2P&ex=46G&in=L_BY7&p=&ip=1PR&o=&io=


For awhile companies were only offering the manual on the stripper/cheapo/skinflint trims. Now they figure that enthusiasts are the only ones who want them, so they put them on the better equipped models.

The Corolla (sedan) is similar, with the manual only available on the SE (above L and LE) but below XLE and XSE. I would have thought the stick would have been put on the XSE since it's the eXtra Sporty Edition, but I didn't get a degree in marketing.


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## absoluteczech (Sep 13, 2006)

It's been almost 2 decades since I did a coolant flush/ drain on a car. 

When I drain, how do I get the remaining coolant out of the block again? Fill it back up with distilled water and run the engine again and let it cycle? Don't remember the procedure. And then to get air out, do I just leave the cap open while it runs for a bit.


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

Baltimoron said:


> This spring I will be doing a lot of work on my wife's old GTI to get it running again. I'll probably have the car up on jackstands for a couple weeks, what's everyone's thoughts on how safe using a full 4x8 sheet of .75in plywood under the jackstands to have a stable work surface over a level grass/gravel parking pad? Unfortunately I don't have a garage or concrete pad to work on.


You'll be fine. Depending on how much rain occurs, the board may flex/deform and make things uneven, so be prepared for that. I've had to work under a racecar on banking while it wobbled on jackstands. If you want to prevent the stands from sliding, screw some stops around the stands to keep them in place.

You'll also need a piece of plywood for the jack, too.


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

cityjohn said:


> Are there any parts in a modern car that are made of iron?


I don't think any of the other replies covered it, but brake rotors are made of cast iron. Same with drums, I think.


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## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

If that is the case and I was in the market for a new car then I would pony up the extra $1k or so and get a GTI instead of the Mazda3. 



adrew said:


> For awhile companies were only offering the manual on the stripper/cheapo/skinflint trims. Now they figure that enthusiasts are the only ones who want them, so they put them on the better equipped models.
> 
> The Corolla (sedan) is similar, with the manual only available on the SE (above L and LE) but below XLE and XSE. I would have thought the stick would have been put on the XSE since it's the eXtra Sporty Edition, but I didn't get a degree in marketing.


I just checked out the Corolla hatch and they seem to be a much better value than the Mazda3, even in top XSE trim. I would definitely check out an SE as it's got pretty much all the standard equipment I like but the bigger wheels and screen size in the XSE are tempting.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

absoluteczech said:


> It's been almost 2 decades since I did a coolant flush/ drain on a car.
> 
> When I drain, how do I get the remaining coolant out of the block again? Fill it back up with distilled water and run the engine again and let it cycle? Don't remember the procedure. And then to get air out, do I just leave the cap open while it runs for a bit.


My VW dealer uses a pressure flushing system. 

My problem was my car was burping for several days and then almost overheating because the thermostat doesn't open until it gets hot. Leaving the cap off just made it belch coolant but that might have been when it was hot (it was a long time ago). Later I found out about the trick of drilling a tiny hole in the thermostat and I think most new thermostats come with a bypass hole now. The bypass hole also helps with draining the coolant out of both sides of the thermostat. 

If you buy a new thermostat, it should have a bypass hole in it already. They have a little rubber diverter valve in the hole for some reason. 

You also want to turn the heater on to get that coolant flushed.

You can buy a pressure flushing system from Eastwood and others. I think Prestone still makes the hose attachment for flushing coolant.


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## absoluteczech (Sep 13, 2006)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> My VW dealer uses a pressure flushing system.
> 
> My problem was my car was burping for several days and then almost overheating because the thermostat doesn't open until it gets hot. Leaving the cap off just made it belch coolant but that might have been when it was hot (it was a long time ago). Later I found out about the trick of drilling a tiny hole in the thermostat and I think most new thermostats come with a bypass hole now. The bypass hole also helps with draining the coolant out of both sides of the thermostat.
> 
> ...


Thanks, I'll look into the pressure flushing systems


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## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

k tire question. I just got a new (to me) car and its sitting on 255/35 R19 96 Y

for winter tires there isn't a lot of selection in that size range, can I go down to 18s? would that require new rims? what are my options here?


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

Dravenport said:


> k tire question. I just got a new (to me) car and its sitting on 255/35 R19 96 Y
> 
> for winter tires there isn't a lot of selection in that size range, can I go down to 18s? would that require new rims? what are my options here?


Yes, the numbers 18 and 19 are the rim sizes and tires are not interchangeable.


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## absoluteczech (Sep 13, 2006)

Dravenport said:


> k tire question. I just got a new (to me) car and its sitting on 255/35 R19 96 Y
> 
> for winter tires there isn't a lot of selection in that size range, can I go down to 18s? would that require new rims? what are my options here?


tire rack sometimes has winter wheel packages that will include wheels & snow tires. You'll obviously need to look at 18" wheel and tire combos 
https://www.tirerack.com/content/tirerack/desktop/en/winter_snow/packages.html


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## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

absoluteczech said:


> tire rack sometimes has winter wheel packages that will include wheels & snow tires. You'll obviously need to look at 18" wheel and tire combos
> https://www.tirerack.com/content/tirerack/desktop/en/winter_snow/packages.html


the shipping and price difference to canada kind of destroys that as an option unfortunately


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Look up mtire size comparison tools online, you can put your original size in, and it will suggest sizes that are the same overall diameter. That's important because it affects the speedometer reading. You can get skinnier tires, which are better for snow, just upsize the sidewall a bit to compensate. 

https://tiresize.com/calculator/

All tires in green are comperable.

Quick lesson in tire sizes:
255- width of the tire in mm.
35- height of sidewall, as a *percentage* of tire width (ex. 35% of 255mm is 89.25mm sidewall heihgt)
19- wheel size

So if you go for a narrower tire, say a 235, you'll need a slightly higher sidewall to compensate so the *actual* height of the sidewall is comperable to the 89.25mm of your stock tire.

If you downsize wheels, you'll need an even taller sidewall to compensate for the difference in smaller wheels. THis is good for winter tires too, more sidewall means more rim protection from potholes.


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## Quinn1.8t (Oct 8, 2006)

Dravenport said:


> the shipping and price difference to canada kind of destroys that as an option unfortunately


Right, but it will tell you which sizes will work for your vehicle.


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## barry2952 (Jun 13, 2007)

I don't think that anyone made it clear that the tire needs to be very close to the size of the OEM tire, or the speedometer will not be accurate. That is dependent on the circumference or diameter of the inflated tire, depending on how the tires are listed. A tire with a 30" diameter will cover 94" in one rotation. A 27" diameter tire will only cover 85". That difference, depending on downsizing or upsizing can make the difference between getting the single-finger salute for driving under the speed limit, and getting a speeding ticket.


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## absoluteczech (Sep 13, 2006)

Quinn1.8t said:


> Right, but it will tell you which sizes will work for your vehicle.


This. And does Maple leaf country have a equivalent website competitor? Point is look for tire wheel combos or at least use it to see what wheel size and tire combo will work for your vehicle. Then go from there


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## Dravenport (Dec 20, 2010)

After much searching I found some Continentals in my size, thanks all!


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## simple (Mar 29, 2001)

GabiJohnson said:


> If you had the manufacturing/fabricating means available, could you put a turbo on any engine?


Sure but you need engine management hardware/software to do it correctly.

We even put turbos on 2 stroke snowmobile engines. :thumbup:


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

simple said:


> Sure but you need engine management hardware/software to do it correctly.
> 
> We even put turbos on 2 stroke snowmobile engines. :thumbup:


QFT. And for MY2020.5+ Ski Doo even has an OEM 2-stroke turbo. Turbo all the things! :laugh:


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## simple (Mar 29, 2001)

ghost03 said:


> QFT. And for MY2020.5+ Ski Doo even has an OEM 2-stroke turbo. Turbo all the things! :laugh:


We've got one. It is amazing!!!:heart: braaap


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

GabiJohnson said:


> If you had the manufacturing/fabricating means available, could you put a turbo on any engine?


I've seen a tiny hairdryer sized turbo on a diesel generator.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

simple said:


> Sure but you need engine management hardware/software to do it correctly.
> 
> We even put turbos on 2 stroke snowmobile engines. :thumbup:


But could you put a turbo on a can of spam?


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## Strange Mud (Oct 20, 2017)

yes you can but it should only be driven by bots


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Car wizards, please help me autopsy these oil(?) leaks. It looks like the result of high pressure misting?


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## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

Mercedes currently makes a 3.0L V6 twin turbo for their C43 AMG models, but also makes a 3.0L inline-6 for their 53 AMG models. Why not discontinue the old V6 and simply use the newer I-6 for everything? Is it a matter of packaging?


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

I've noticed in my neighborhood that a bunch of elderly people often leave their trunks open for days at a time. Is this a thing? I can understand needing to air it out after hauling mulch or something, but one day every single old person's trunk was popped open as i walked down the street. :screwy:


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

A.Wilder said:


> I've noticed in my neighborhood that a bunch of elderly people often leave their trunks open for days at a time. Is this a thing? I can understand needing to air it out after hauling mulch or something, but one day every single old person's trunk was popped open as i walked down the street. :screwy:


5G radio waves run amok?


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## Egz (May 30, 2002)

A.Wilder said:


> I've noticed in my neighborhood that a bunch of elderly people often leave their trunks open for days at a time. Is this a thing? I can understand needing to air it out after hauling mulch or something, but one day every single old person's trunk was popped open as i walked down the street. :screwy:


Keep bumping the trunk button on their fob?


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

Egz said:


> Keep bumping the trunk button on their fob?


That was my first thought, but it's clearly intentional, as all of them were outside when I walked by one day.


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

I have my X-Ice3 tires still installed on my car at the moment. I have to store it in an underground garage for the summer, but I don't want to go to a shop to swap tires and I also don't want to swap them myself for several reasons. Mobile services seem to want upwards of $75 without tax just for a swap, which is too much coin in my opinion. 

Is there really any difference if I store the car with winters on vs. summers? I will pump up the pressures regardless, but I am wondering if the softer compound will be more prone to flat-spotting over several months. It is an off-site garage (in another city), so I can't just go drive it around every few weeks easily.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Elite_Deforce said:


> I have my X-Ice3 tires still installed on my car at the moment. I have to store it in an underground garage for the summer, but I don't want to go to a shop to swap tires and I also don't want to swap them myself for several reasons. Mobile services seem to want upwards of $75 without tax just for a swap, which is too much coin in my opinion.
> 
> Is there really any difference if I store the car with winters on vs. summers? I will pump up the pressures regardless, but I am wondering if the softer compound will be more prone to flat-spotting over several months. It is an off-site garage (in another city), so I can't just go drive it around every few weeks easily.


I bought Michelin X-Ice tires for one of my cars a few years ago. That car was in storage for most of the year. I drove it sometimes in the summer also. Now the tires are on my car in the garage. No problem.


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

A.Wilder said:


> That was my first thought, but it's clearly intentional, as all of them were outside when I walked by one day.


This is in the suburbs? We've noticed a tremendous amount of "when in Rome" copycat type behavior in whilst living in the suburbs. Somebody cuts their grass? Everybody cuts their grass. Somebody gets a power wheels for their kid? Everybody gets a power wheels for their kid.

I honestly wouldn't be surprised if one person did it on accident, and other people did it on purpose, blindly, to follow suit.


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## Strange Mud (Oct 20, 2017)

A.Wilder said:


> I've noticed in my neighborhood that a bunch of elderly people often leave their trunks open for days at a time. Is this a thing? I can understand needing to air it out after hauling mulch or something, but one day every single old person's trunk was popped open as i walked down the street. :screwy:


My neighbor leaves his Miata trunk open often.....I'm sure it's because lazy



Elite_Deforce said:


> I have my X-Ice3 tires still installed on my car at the moment. I have to store it in an underground garage for the summer, but I don't want to go to a shop to swap tires and I also don't want to swap them myself for several reasons. Mobile services seem to want upwards of $75 without tax just for a swap, which is too much coin in my opinion.
> 
> Is there really any difference if I store the car with winters on vs. summers? I will pump up the pressures regardless, but I am wondering if the softer compound will be more prone to flat-spotting over several months. It is an off-site garage (in another city), so I can't just go drive it around every few weeks easily.


I would consider parking on pieces of cardboard folded over a few times but even w/o that I wouldn't worry. Extra air is a good idea but flat spots are rare and normally go away after a few miles if they occur.


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

Strange Mud said:


> I would consider parking on pieces of cardboard folded over a few times but even w/o that I wouldn't worry. Extra air is a good idea but flat spots are rare and normally go away after a few miles if they occur.


Yeah I do that already since it's concrete, but it is vented. Thanks :thumbup:


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

Elite_Deforce said:


> I have my X-Ice3 tires still installed on my car at the moment. I have to store it in an underground garage for the summer, but I don't want to go to a shop to swap tires and I also don't want to swap them myself for several reasons. Mobile services seem to want upwards of $75 without tax just for a swap, which is too much coin in my opinion.
> 
> Is there really any difference if I store the car with winters on vs. summers? I will pump up the pressures regardless, but I am wondering if the softer compound will be more prone to flat-spotting over several months. It is an off-site garage (in another city), so I can't just go drive it around every few weeks easily.


what about leaving it on jackstands or blocks just enough to relieve the weight on the tires? 

flatspotting sucks. my grandparent's motorhome would do that and it'd take 30-40 miles before the shaking would stop.


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

GreenandChrome said:


> what about leaving it on jackstands or blocks just enough to relieve the weight on the tires?
> 
> flatspotting sucks. my grandparent's motorhome would do that and it'd take 30-40 miles before the shaking would stop.


Seems excessive. It will not be for more than 2-3 months, if at that. I also don't have 4 stands. I'd rather flatspot (which isn't an issue if it works itself out via driving) than put extra stress on pinch welds anyway.

I was more interested in the science between winter compound and summer compound. I have stored it for 6+ months before on summers with zero issues.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

I’d expect summer compounds to be softer than winter?


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

Elite_Deforce said:


> Seems excessive. It will not be for more than 2-3 months, if at that. I also don't have 4 stands. I'd rather flatspot (which isn't an issue if it works itself out via driving) than put extra stress on pinch welds anyway.
> 
> I was more interested in the science between winter compound and summer compound. I have stored it for 6+ months before on summers with zero issues.


i'm definitely of the opinion that winter tires will flat spot much easier than summers simply because of the softer more malleable compound. But, forgive me if I'm wrong here, isn't flat spotting a temporary thing? If that's the case, let it flat spot the winter tires and when you're ready to drive it, swap on the summer tires and drive it around.


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## tree_fiddy (Apr 13, 2020)

I'm picking up a 2000 VW Polo (1.4 16V) on Friday - it has 120k km on it, and had its timing belt done at 60k - back in 2010!

I asked the garage about changing it and they said its good for at least another 20k, and there aren't time based replacement intervals for this car, just distance based. If the condition of the the car is anything to go by (full service history, well maintained), I'm inclined to believe them, given their reputation and the cars I saw them working on (VW specialist, bunch of aircooleds and a Polo G40), but I plan on getting the belts and water pump changed anyways. I've also looked around on the internet and found this list which seems to corroborate with what they were saying -

https://www.continental-industry.co...-DeEnEs-Timing-belt-replacement-intervals.pdf

The car will get a full service before I pick it up tomorrow. Will I be okay leaving the timing belt as is, doing it at the end of next month to give my wallet some breathing room? Or is this something to bite the bullet with and get it out of the way?

As for the transmission, its an automatic and I don't think it's had a fluid change yet. I'm coming from Volvos and these 6N2Is it worth doing a drain and refill or would I risk damaging the transmission at this point?

The engine and gearbox codes are APE/EAT - if anyone has any information as to the specifics of this drivetrain it would be very welcome.

Thank you!


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## Hawk (May 7, 2010)

How much will dealers be discounting when things open back up? I've heard some are doing up to 20% on brand new cars.


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## Samson (Dec 2, 1999)

On a cold start, an automatic will not creep backwards when put in reverse. The car goes into gear fine, but requires throttle to move at more than a snail's pace. On a warm start, it functions as expected (creeps backwards at a low speed like any other automatic). What could be the cause of this? Low ATF? Torque converter issues?


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

thegave said:


> I’d expect summer compounds to be softer than winter?


Winters are softer to compensate for freezing temperatures. 


worth_fixing said:


> i'm definitely of the opinion that winter tires will flat spot much easier than summers simply because of the softer more malleable compound. But, forgive me if I'm wrong here, isn't flat spotting a temporary thing? If that's the case, let it flat spot the winter tires and when you're ready to drive it, swap on the summer tires and drive it around.


My thinking as well, but I agree flat spotting really isn't much of an issue. I've never had it happen on several sets of tires.


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## Travis Grundke (May 26, 1999)

Hawk said:


> How much will dealers be discounting when things open back up? I've heard some are doing up to 20% on brand new cars.


I think it's all going to depend on available supply, since this downturn is not only demand destruction, but it's also a major supply disruption. The supply chain is a mess, and ramping back up to production is going to take a lot longer than people think. 

For some models, I wouldn't be surprised to see significant shortages for another 6 months.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

How rich and for how long does your mixture have to be to cause cylinder wash and fuel dilution?

My car has been running really rich for the past couple of days. I don't know how rich, but the wideband gauge was pegged at 10:1 (lowest it goes) virtually the whole time it was running. Off-throttle decel might have bumped it up to 10.5 or so. I ultimately drove about 100 miles before rectifying the condition. It is a turbo car, but with minimal boost during that time.

No smoke out the tailpipe. Not sure if that ever happens on a super-rich mixture.


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## Sepp (Dec 10, 2002)

thegave said:


> How rich and for how long does your mixture have to be to cause cylinder wash and fuel dilution?
> 
> My car has been running really rich for the past couple of days. I don't know how rich, but the wideband gauge was pegged at 10:1 (lowest it goes) virtually the whole time it was running. Off-throttle decel might have bumped it up to 10.5 or so. I ultimately drove about 100 miles before rectifying the condition. It is a turbo car, but with minimal boost during that time.
> 
> No smoke out the tailpipe. Not sure if that ever happens on a super-rich mixture.


Usually, black smoke from the exhaust is a tell tale sign of running rich.
I'd change your oil, if you're concerned about possible dilution. 
I hope that helps.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Yeah I changed it just to be safe. Cheap insurance. Old oil did not smell particularly fuely so hopefully no damage was done


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

Samson said:


> On a cold start, an automatic will not creep backwards when put in reverse. The car goes into gear fine, but requires throttle to move at more than a snail's pace. On a warm start, it functions as expected (creeps backwards at a low speed like any other automatic). What could be the cause of this? Low ATF? Torque converter issues?


Low trans fluid level would be the first thing I'd suspect. Check it when hot in N.


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## chucchinchilla (Dec 25, 2004)

How long does it take for bird poop to etch clear coat?


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

Elite_Deforce said:


> Winters are softer to compensate for freezing temperatures.
> 
> 
> My thinking as well, but I agree flat spotting really isn't much of an issue. I've never had it happen on several sets of tires.


I'm not an expert here on tire compound, but I believe it takes several factors of compound/tire type, temperature, and set duration. 

For instance, I've owned/driven many Honda's for extended periods of time and these are a few cars which had horrific flat spotting within short periods of time (not long term storage for months)

2015 Civic Si - Worse of any vehicle I've driven. In the winter months, if you didn't drive this car for a week it would vibrate for ~8-10 miles of highway. Sometimes even over the weekend you can tell for a few miles. Winter was worse, but also occurred in the summer time.
2016 CRV - similar condition but took more set time
2018 TLX - This car has sat for weeks however, but takes at least 10 miles to start to even out, sometimes like 30 miles if its a long long time (to and from work).

I typically store my Evo in the winter (at least 7 yrs now), I only move it a few times throughout Nov - May, I've had Yokohama, Dunlop, and Conti summer tires, never had a flat spot issue. 

Just some context based on my experience :thumbup:


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## Egz (May 30, 2002)

Why do so many pickups run wheels with the wrong offset? The tires they run seem to be not much wider than factory, but stick out quite a bit from the fender. Is there a real benefit from this (they don't look like they go offroad), or did they just keep buying the wrong wheels?


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## Cradle2theDave (Aug 22, 2016)

Egz said:


> Why do so many pickups run wheels with the wrong offset? The tires they run seem to be not much wider than factory, but stick out quite a bit from the fender. Is there a real benefit from this (they don't look like they go offroad), or did they just keep buying the wrong wheels?


It's part of the brodozer bro code, bro! Otherwise you can easily get separated from the bro-herd and are more susceptible to attacks from soy eating Prius clans.


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

Egz said:


> or did they just keep buying the wrong wheels?


I suppose it's a matter of opinion, but this. Plenty of actual wheelers tend not to sit inside the fenders either (if they even _have_ fenders), but those are also running legitimately huge tires like 36s or 40s that never had a chance to clear. Truck bros might be trying to replicate that without having calculated an appropriate setup, they might not want make the effort to adjust suspension for larger diameter tires, or they might just like the look/attention of the offset.

But yes, IMO anyway this is DIW:








[Carthrottle.com]

And this is DIR:








[Carthrottle.com]


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## Egz (May 30, 2002)

Something like that, but usually not that bad. Closer to this is what I see every day


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

Egz said:


> Something like that, but usually not that bad. Closer to this is what I see every day


Yup, that's not nearly as bad. Basically it's easy to buy wheels and bolt them on. It's much harder to determine the best sizes and consider suspension height and geometry and add fender flares and such. On trucks they usually talk about it in terms of backspacing and not offset, as one practical application is less risk of wheels hitting suspension or steering componentry, which is of course more of a risk with larger tires and/or lifts.

But yeah, personally I hate when wheels are outside of fenders on road vehicles. It throws stuff everywhere and is an extra safety hazard with contact sort of like open wheel racing vs closed wheel. Pretty sure it's illegal in most states as well. Oh well.


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## Ducman69 (Feb 13, 2010)

Elite_Deforce said:


> Seems excessive. It will not be for more than 2-3 months, if at that. I also don't have 4 stands. I'd rather flatspot (which isn't an issue if it works itself out via driving) than put extra stress on pinch welds anyway.


Pinch welds are strong, its not going to hurt them. However, that may be a stupid question but that's the first I've heard of that flat spotted tires could correct themselves with enough miles put on them.

I always understood that once a tire was flat spotted it was garbage.


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## Ducman69 (Feb 13, 2010)

Egz said:


> Something like that, but usually not that bad. Closer to this is what I see every day


I have a truck too and asked for opinions on wheels and quite a few were recommending offsets to have the wheels stick out, purely for aesthetics. I guess its kind of an offroad/Jeep thing in general, but its hugely inefficient and I don't like it. Your mileage goes to crap from all the drag those rotating tires create on the highway.


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## Sold Over Sticker (Nov 29, 2009)

Ducman69 said:


> Pinch welds are strong, its not going to hurt them. However, that may be a stupid question but that's the first I've heard of that flat spotted tires could correct themselves with enough miles put on them.
> 
> I always understood that once a tire was flat spotted it was garbage.


When I worked for a Lotus franchise it was common for A048A Advans to go out of round from sitting. Factory approved technique was put them to 60 psi, and drive it for 20 minutes and then air down. Back into round they would go. :laugh::laugh:


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

Ducman69 said:


> Pinch welds are strong, its not going to hurt them. However, that may be a stupid question but that's the first I've heard of that flat spotted tires could correct themselves with enough miles put on them.
> 
> I always understood that once a tire was flat spotted it was garbage.


Naw, not if they're mild. When we get the 'vert out in the spring (205/50/17) it's almost always got flat spots. They're not bad, feels about like a slightly out of balance tire. Goes away after ~20 minutes.

On cars with more expensive/lower profile tires I just start it and move it forward a foot or so halfway through winter.


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## AHTOXA (Dec 2, 2007)

Tires, speed rating and compound. 

Let’s take two tires. Both 285/70/17, same brand, same model, same load rating but different speed rating. Everything the same except one set is a S speed rating and one is Q. Are there structural differences or compound differences with this tire?


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

Ducman69 said:


> However, that may be a stupid question but that's the first I've heard of that flat spotted tires could correct themselves with enough miles put on them.
> 
> I always understood that once a tire was flat spotted it was garbage.


You don't know what you're talking about.

Bias ply tires are well known for their propensity to flat spot during storage. Anyone with an RV or trailer knows this. 



ghost03 said:


> Yup, that's not nearly as bad. Basically it's easy to buy wheels and bolt them on. It's much harder to determine the best sizes and consider suspension height and geometry and add fender flares and such. On trucks they usually talk about it in terms of backspacing and not offset, as one practical application is less risk of wheels hitting suspension or steering componentry, which is of course more of a risk with larger tires and/or lifts.
> 
> But yeah, personally I hate when wheels are outside of fenders on road vehicles. It throws stuff everywhere and is an extra safety hazard with contact sort of like open wheel racing vs closed wheel. Pretty sure it's illegal in most states as well. Oh well.


I believe most states have those laws, like tires can't protrude more than 1.5" from the widest part of the body, or you have to have mud flaps or fender flares. But it's not a cause to pull over, just something to tack on.

I put wider tires on the Earth F**ker, but just slightly. It fills out the stance just a little better, instead of having pizza cutter tires built for commuting. I went from 275 to 295, iirc. Still inside the wheel wells. 



AHTOXA said:


> Tires, speed rating and compound.
> 
> Let’s take two tires. Both 285/70/17, same brand, same model, same load rating but different speed rating. Everything the same except one set is a S speed rating and one is Q. Are there structural differences or compound differences with this tire?


Compound is grip. For speed and load considerations, it's tire construction. Tires can have a different bands that are designed to hold the tire's shape and load demands of the speed and/or weight requirements. 

Also, given your example, could be that tires can have the same size that fits other vehicles in a different category. Say, a tire that can fit a truck or a light SUV. The one designed for the truck would have a higher load rating, and less speed, because we all know trucks don't drive fast, and are used to haul loads of bark or gravel. 

source: some tire research; racecar tire engineer


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## 88c900t (Jul 7, 2014)

A little embarrassed to ask but where should I go for a complete, general all around tool kit for my garage? All I have is a large socket set and some screwdrivers.


----------



## pontiac (Aug 3, 2009)

Should I be using anti seize when changing spark plugs? Seems like some people do and some don't. It's a Civic with an R18 if it makes a difference.


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## gotcha640 (Aug 23, 2014)

88c900t said:


> A little embarrassed to ask but where should I go for a complete, general all around tool kit for my garage? All I have is a large socket set and some screwdrivers.


Depends a lot on how much of your own work you might do, how much you want to spend, and how much space you have. And what sort of other work you might do (home repair, electronics, woodworking, welding). 

Garagejournal would tell you you need at least a 56 inch tool chest, 1/4 to 1/2 drive ratchets and breaker bars and torque wrenches, all sockets from 1/4 to 2 inch and 5mm to 50mm. Air compressors and pliers and pry bars and loads of specialty tools. A tool chest is incredibly useful, if you have the tools to fill it, but might be a big waste of money and space if you don't. 

For the usual weekend warrior oil changes and adjustments and stuff, harbor freight is fine for the basics. You have sockets and screwdrivers, maybe you add 1/2 breaker bar and impact sockets, good locking pliers and ratcheting combo wrenches and universal joints and magnets. Cordless impact if you have the money. 

Torx and Allen sockets. 

The big kits are usually socket and screwdriver focused, so probably not really what you need.


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

88c900t said:


> A little embarrassed to ask but where should I go for a complete, general all around tool kit for my garage? All I have is a large socket set and some screwdrivers.


How much do you want to spend? And how pretentious are you? And general purpose - household repair or automotive/mechanical?

The problem with "tool sets" is you'll get a lot of s**t you don't need. For $400-500 you should be able to get most everything you need.

I'd start with the following:

SAE+Metric:
Long and shallow sockets in 1/2" and 3/8" drive
Flat ratchets
Allen sockets in 1/4" and 3/8" drive
Impact sockets 1/2" drive
Basic 1/4" drive set

1/2", 3/8", 1/4" drive extensions, up to 12" and 18"
Good set of screwdrivers (magnet tips)
3 sizes of crescent wrenches
Vise grips or similar
Plier set (cutters, lineman, and needle nose)
1/2" impact wrench (cord or cordless)
Set of Torx screwdrivers and/or sockets
Precision screwdrivers (the tiny ones)
Utility knife
2 25' tapes (minimum)
Square
Level (small and large)
Collapsible magnet retrieval tool
Magnet collection tray
Magnet utility light
Plastic tools for interior plastic panel removal




pontiac said:


> Should I be using anti seize when changing spark plugs? Seems like some people do and some don't. It's a Civic with an R18 if it makes a difference.


Yes.


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

88c900t said:


> A little embarrassed to ask but where should I go for a complete, general all around tool kit for my garage? All I have is a large socket set and some screwdrivers.


Nothing to be embarrassed about we all started somewhere. :thumbup: Tough to answer though..for many, tool buying is kind of an on-going process as opposed to a one time thing. Some of the toolsets have good value, but the whole one general kit tool is a little misleading. They're gonna have a lot of stuff you don't end up needing and will almost certainly miss some stuff you do, with no good place to put extras, and if the tools aren't quality enough for growth you might end up replacing all of them anyway. Overall the recommendation depends on how serious you are about it and what you want to accomplish, and so we're probably better off providing you with guidelines than recommendations if that makes sense. A few questions:

1. Do you have a general budget in mind? Doesn't need to be specific, but some people would say $20 others $200 others $2000 etc.
2. How much space do you have and where would you store these tools?
3. Do you need them to be mobile? E.g., if you store tools inside but wrench in a driveway.
4. What tasks? Could be from just oil changes and hanging pictures all the way to swapping motors and renovating kitchens, I'm guessing somewhere in between but it's helpful to know. :beer:


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

gotcha640 said:


> For the usual weekend warrior oil changes and adjustments and stuff, harbor freight is fine for the basics. You have sockets and screwdrivers, maybe you add 1/2 breaker bar and impact sockets, good locking pliers and ratcheting combo wrenches and universal joints and magnets. Cordless impact if you have the money.


I wouldn't want my oft-used/core tools to be from HF, but a lot of people hate on them when they have a huge local selection of a lot of stuff that's "good enough" for occasional use. And I love flipping through their adverts and coupons...feels kind of like going through the Sunday paper toystore ads did as a kid. :beer:


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## -TDI- (Oct 21, 2018)

Question- I’ve put about 100K mi on my Mk4 TDI, the car has about 260K on it and I’ve never done a transmission flush. I hear stories all the time that it is not recommended to change the fluid if it hasn’t been done for a while due to metal shavings holding the gears together. I’m trying to get a better understanding of this.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

?


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

^^^This. If it's a manual, simply drain and refill with the proper gear oil. If it's a slushbox, it gets a little more complicated. With an auto, you most certainly don't want to have a shop "flush" it with their high-pressure trans flushing machine. This will likely dislodge crud and cause problems. What people usually do in that situation is just drain what's in the pan (the torque converter will still be full), fill with the same amount of fluid as you drained, drive 100+ miles, and repeat a few times until the fluid comes out clean. This "fluid exchange" method is much better if it's not been touched in ages.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

pontiac said:


> Should I be using anti seize when changing spark plugs? Seems like some people do and some don't. It's a Civic with an R18 if it makes a difference.


Man its been a long time, but if I recall don't spark plugs usually come with a pinch of anti seize already on the thread?

Regardless, I always ALWAYS use it when I take a plug out and put it back in. 
I've seen someone break a plug in the cylinder head before a long long time ago :banghead:
I was like :sly: .... what do we do now? I was a kid lol


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

-TDI- said:


> Question- I’ve put about 100K mi on my Mk4 TDI, the car has about 260K on it and I’ve never done a transmission flush. I hear stories all the time that it is not recommended to change the fluid if it hasn’t been done for a while due to metal shavings holding the gears together. I’m trying to get a better understanding of this.


Meh. I don't think that's exactly accurate. I've heard that the change from old oil to new is a shock to the mechanical system because of the viscosity, going from water to honey. If that's true (I have no experience with that high mileage), what I would try would be swap out trans fluid partially at a time over a period of time/distance until you've replaced it all.


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

What I've heard with autos, aside from dislodging gunk that can clog up the passages in the valve body, is that a high-mileage trans with original fluid has lots of tiny metal wear particles suspended in it. As the clutches wear over time, they start to lose their friction surfaces and can slip. Those suspended particles in the nasty old fluid can help provide some additional friction and stave off a slipping trans for a little bit longer.


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## 4.OMG (Dec 20, 2004)

ghost03 said:


> I wouldn't want my oft-used/core tools to be from HF, but a lot of people hate on them when they have a huge local selection of a lot of stuff that's "good enough" for occasional use. And I love flipping through their adverts and coupons...feels kind of like going through the Sunday paper toystore ads did as a kid. :beer:


Some of their stuff is "good enough" but for the real basics (as I suspect he's asking about) something like Tekton or GearWrench will be a lot better quality for not too much more money. If I was just starting out with tools, I would look for:

-Floor jack and jack stands (3 ton minimum);

-Safety glasses;

-Gloves ("mechanic" style and nitrile);

-Work light(s). An old school "trouble light" is still very handy and Harbor Freight has some decent cordless LED models to pick from.

-1/4, 3/8 and 1/2" drive ratchets and extensions (Gear Wrench are pretty nice for the price);

-Breaker bar (if I was only going to own one, it would probably be 1/2" drive and around 24-36" long);

-1/4, 3/8 and 1/2" drive metric sockets (shallow and deep; SAE are optional for now if you're only planning on working on foreign cars);

-Cordless impact (optional, but makes life so much easier). If you buy one, skip the 1/2" drive chrome sockets and just buy shallow and deep impact sockets;

-Metric combination wrench set. I prefer a long pattern wrench, but that's personal preference. If you don't mind a shorter wrench, USA-made Craftsman raised panel wrench sets are all over craigslist and ebay for fairly cheap;

-Pry bar set (Pittsburgh from Harbor Freight will be fine);

-Screwdriver set (these will obviously have lots of uses outside the garage, so worth it to spend a little more on better tools. Williams (look a lot like Snap On), Vessel, SK, Proto are all nice and can be found on Amazon);

-Female hex and torx sockets (male and female);

-Channel lock pliers;

-Needle nose pliers (an inexpensive set is fine to start);

-Vice grips (small, medium, large and needle nose);

-C-clamps or locking clamps (these have all kinds of uses, for example retracting brake caliper pistons);

-Ball peen hammer;

-Drain pan (get one with a large footprint to make it easier to corral whatever is draining);

-Oil filter wrench (which style you get will depend on what will fit what you're working on);

-Inexpensive torque wrench (I'd consider Tekton-it will be fine for torquing lug nuts etc. but probably not the best choice for assembling an engine);

-Mityvac or similar vacuum pump;

-Small propane or MAPP torch;

-Cordless drill (if you don't already own one, see if there's one that takes the same batteries as a cordless impact) with basic bit set;

-Lots of bungee cords and zip ties;

-Lots of shop rags (my old undershirts become shop rags);

-Lots of big pieces of cardboard (when you're starting out, you'll probably make a mess doing most things). 

Forgot a few things:

-Side cutters (*****);
-Wire stripper/crimper;
-Magnetic pick-up tool;
-Magnetic parts trays


You can actually do quite a bit with the stuff listed above. Beyond that, you can buy stuff as needed for bigger/more specialized projects.


----------



## 557688 (Aug 21, 2010)

Will two engine mounts sufficiently hold an engine up while I change the other out? Should I remove them all and replace them all at the same time? What's the best way to do this?


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Mr Miyagi said:


> Will two engine mounts sufficiently hold an engine up while I change the other out? Should I remove them all and replace them all at the same time? What's the best way to do this?


It depends on what type of car, the style of mount system, etc. 

it could be a tri-mount (like one center front, two at each corner in the rear, and all three bear weight), you'll need to loosen all of them at the main attachment point (usually one big single bolt) and support the engine while changing the offending one out. The other mounts need to be loosened and the engine shook a bit to settle into a neutral position before tightening. 

If it's a pendulum/dogbone setup, you will need to support the engine if it's one of the pendulum ones, but if it's the dogbone, that can be done without loosening the other two, and no engine support is needed.


----------



## -TDI- (Oct 21, 2018)

Thanks for the responses to the trans gear oil question everyone. And my car is a 5 speed.


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

In that case, drain and refill and don't think twice. :thumbup:


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

-TDI- said:


> Thanks for the responses to the trans gear oil question everyone. And my car is a 5 speed.


260k on the original fluid? You must shift really nice and politely. :thumbup:

About 90k on fluid, and it starts complaining about getting a full send into 3rd.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

IJM said:


> In that case, drain and refill and don't think twice. :thumbup:


Make sure you get an oil rated for synchros. A lot of GL-4 GL-5 oils are for rear differentials, not transmissions. Will eat up the “yellow” metals in the synchros.


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## Fe2O3 (Jan 13, 2009)

why do tools smell weird in toolboxes after a while? Is there some rubber handle or plastic or something that is breaking down? It's some kind of odd chemical smell. What am I doing wrong?


----------



## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

Fe2O3 said:


> why do tools smell weird in toolboxes after a while? Is there some rubber handle or plastic or something that is breaking down? It's some kind of odd chemical smell. What am I doing wrong?


 Not work safe:


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## Strange Mud (Oct 20, 2017)

Fe2O3 said:


> why do tools smell weird in toolboxes after a while? Is there some rubber handle or plastic or something that is breaking down? It's some kind of odd chemical smell. * What am I doing wrong?*


stop smelling your tools


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## -TDI- (Oct 21, 2018)

I have one more question for you all. Every time I clean my engine bay, I’ve always noticed my manual transmission is very clunky and will sometimes grid into gear. This will go on for at least a few weeks until it appears things finally “settle” and it will shift as normal. This has happened in all my cars ranging from Geo Prisms to S2000s. Is this related to the gear linkage? And how do I prevent this?


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## smetzger (Oct 21, 2004)

VDub2625 said:


> It depends on what type of car, the style of mount system, etc.
> 
> it could be a tri-mount (like one center front, two at each corner in the rear, and all three bear weight), you'll need to loosen all of them at the main attachment point (usually one big single bolt) and *support the engine while changing the offending one out*. The other mounts need to be loosened and the engine shook a bit to settle into a neutral position before tightening.
> 
> If it's a pendulum/dogbone setup, you will need to support the engine if it's one of the pendulum ones, but if it's the dogbone, that can be done without loosening the other two, and no engine support is needed.


Your motor won't fall out. But you usually need to have the engine a little higher in order to have some play to get the new motor mount in. 
So, put floor jack underneath and have that push the engine up.


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## bnkrpt311 (Apr 22, 2010)

Fe2O3 said:


> why do tools smell weird in toolboxes after a while? Is there some rubber handle or plastic or something that is breaking down? It's some kind of odd chemical smell. What am I doing wrong?


I have an orange plastic tool box that makes everything smell like puke for some f'n reason. I took all the tools out and organized them into other bins and they still smell terrible. My wife just told me last week she is going to chuck it all in the trash and buy me new stuff.


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## UncleJB (Jul 3, 2002)

Can anyone recommend the best way to clean fabric seat surfaces from the 80's? I am looking at steam upholstery cleaning machines but not sure what will work best. 

I have an '88 Cabriolet and a '87 Jetta both with lighter patterned cloth seats. Both have some staining from over the decades and I'm hoping to get them back as close to new as possible. 

The Jetta has cloth centers and (I believe) leather outers - both surfaces are a very light grey. Will steam destroy the outers?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

UncleJB said:


> The Jetta has cloth centers and (I believe) leather outers - both surfaces are a very light grey. Will steam destroy the outers?




If it's the the basic seats, the backs that look like leather are pleather, plastic leather imitation vinyl. Even Trophy Recaro bolsters are vinyl. I wouldn't use steam on it, but it should be fairly easy to clean anyway.

VW didn't offer genuine leather in a lot of models, until the 90s, and even then, it was usually only the touch surfaces of the seat (sides and back were still imitation).


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

UncleJB said:


> Can anyone recommend the best way to clean fabric seat surfaces from the 80's? I am looking at steam upholstery cleaning machines but not sure what will work best.
> 
> I have an '88 Cabriolet and a '87 Jetta both with lighter patterned cloth seats. Both have some staining from over the decades and I'm hoping to get them back as close to new as possible.
> 
> The Jetta has cloth centers and (I believe) leather outers - both surfaces are a very light grey. Will steam destroy the outers?


Ever use a Bissel Little Green? I wouldn't use it on leather but they work surprisingly well on cloth and carpet for the price. Water pulled out will most likely be dark brown.


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## UncleJB (Jul 3, 2002)

VDub2625 said:


> If it's the the basic seats, the backs that look like leather are pleather, plastic leather imitation. Even Trophy Recaro bolsters are pleather. I wouldn't use steam on it, but it should be fairly easy to clean anyway.
> 
> VW didn't offer genuine leather in a lot of models, until the 90s, and even then, it was usually only the touch surfaces of the seat (sides and back were still imitation).


These are the seats










What would you recommend for the pleather? I'd like to do this right the first time. 



ghost03 said:


> Ever use a Bissel Little Green? I wouldn't use it on leather but they work surprisingly well on cloth and carpet for the price. Water pulled out will most likely be dark brown.


I've never used steam on car seats before. I might take a look. It would be nice to have one around the house for other uses as well.


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

UncleJB said:


> These are the seats
> 
> 
> What would you recommend for the pleather? I'd like to do this right the first time.


If it's vinyl, probably Meguairs M4016. It's not necessarily geared for seats (I actually use it on door seals and such so can't back this suggestion 100%), but it's roughly equivalent to leather conditioner for rubber. There's a few people that have used it in the reviews on seats and it looks promising, though I would definitely try it out first on an inconspicuous area first.



UncleJB said:


> I've never used steam on car seats before. I might take a look. It would be nice to have one around the house for other uses as well.


Ah, it's actually much simpler than steam and IMO less invasive.  Little Green is a combination sprayer/brush/wet vac. You put hot water and detergent into one tank, and then use the brush to spray the detergent, work it in and out, and vacuum it up simultaneously. I believe it will work very very well on the cloth seats you've shown, you'll be amazed at what ends up in the dirty water tank.


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## UncleJB (Jul 3, 2002)

ghost03 said:


> If it's vinyl, probably Meguairs M4016. It's not necessarily geared for seats (I actually use it on door seals and such so can't back this suggestion 100%), but it's roughly equivalent to leather conditioner for rubber. There's a few people that have used it in the reviews on seats and it looks promising, though I would definitely try it out first on an inconspicuous area first.
> 
> 
> 
> Ah, it's actually much simpler than steam and IMO less invasive.  Little Green is a combination sprayer/brush/wet vac. You put hot water and detergent into one tank, and then use the brush to spray the detergent, work it in and out, and vacuum it up simultaneously. I believe it will work very very well on the cloth seats you've shown, you'll be amazed at what ends up in the dirty water tank.


Thanks! And trust me, I already have a lot of fear about what the dirty water tank is going to look like. :laugh:


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Does VW not sell concentrated G13 coolant at all? The only part number I find is GA137741GDSP which is a 50/50 pre-mix. I used to get bottles of G013A8J1G with a red cap but I can't find it or it's all been superseded by the black cap pre-mixed version.

WHY?


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## UncleJB (Jul 3, 2002)

thegave said:


> Does VW not sell concentrated G13 coolant at all? The only part number I find is GA137741GDSP which is a 50/50 pre-mix. I used to get bottles of G013A8J1G with a red cap but I can't find it or it's all been superseded by the black cap pre-mixed version.
> 
> WHY?


How hard did you look? I copied your P/N and https://www.fcpeuro.com/products?ke...MIsKjjutSg6gIVzwiICR38HgEvEAAYASAAEgIMgfD_BwE


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Yes that's Pentosin fluid. I'm asking about VW/VAG fluid.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

UncleJB said:


> These are the seats
> 
> 
> What would you recommend for the pleather? I'd like to do this right the first time.
> ...



Hey! That's a Pirelli coupe, the GLI coupe that never was! It's the 87 Wolfsburg Edition, a base model Jetta with a bunch of upgrades from the GLI 8v of the time. Very nice. Always wanted one of those swapped with a 16v. 

I don't know what would be good on them, but those stains look deep. I am all about originality, but those seats are just the basic GL seats with special covers. It's one part of that car that I wouldn't mind upgrading (maybe to Trophys), since it's the only part that was kind of lacking... (it had GLI suspension, brakes, transmission, engine, and dark roofed interior, but those seats sucked!).


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## Spax MC (Oct 26, 2006)

so...i"ve had oem struts from a mk5 rabbit sitting in my garage since 2009, 5k miles on them

never thought i'd be here, but got another mk5 and was wondering if i can use those struts removed in 2009? does anything deteriorate on them?


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

Spax MC said:


> so...i"ve had oem struts from a mk5 rabbit sitting in my garage since 2009, 5k miles on them
> 
> never thought i'd be here, but got another mk5 and was wondering if i can use those struts removed in 2009? does anything deteriorate on them?


seals can dry out, but if they haven't been used, they'll probably work just fine.


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## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

My passenger side CV joint is clicking so I bought a new axle. I was thinking about what would happen if it disintegrated while I was driving and thought that power would just be sent to the driver's side instead. Is that true? I don't have limited slip. What makes power sent to either side in a normal FWD car?


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

DonPatrizio said:


> My passenger side CV joint is clicking so I bought a new axle. I was thinking about what would happen if it disintegrated while I was driving and thought that power would just be sent to the driver's side instead. Is that true? I don't have limited slip. What makes power sent to either side in a normal FWD car?


If power goes to the wheels that slip instead of the wheels that grip, like in my Golf, then a non-existent CV axle would get all the power, and therefore, no go. I've never had one fail, so I have no idea what really would fail.


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

If you break an axle (or shear off the splined part of the hub) in a FWD car with an open differential, you'll just go no where since you can't get power to the ground. The broken side will just spin freely. With an open diff, the same amount of torque (not power) is sent to both axles at all times. This sounds counter-intuitive, but it's true. Think about it this way: If one wheel is on ice and the other is on try pavement, there's only enough friction on the icy wheel to support a small amount of torque. Any additional torque just accelerates the wheel as it spins. That's the same amount of max torque that will go to the wheel with grip, hence why you go nowhere.

Here's a real-world example of what happens when the axle and wheel part ways. In this case it was a hub failure, but a catastrophic CV joint failure would produce a similar result, likely with the detached axle banging around. Notice how the revs climb as soon as the axle starts spinning inside the hub.


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## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

Ah okay. Thank makes sense, thanks.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

I think it's common enough knowledge that cars have an optimum operating temperature - my question is can this be narrowed down to specifically engine oil? As in, does the coolant temperature matter as long as the oil is within the operating temperature range? There are plenty of reasons oil should be at a minimum temperature - lubricity, viscosity, and the evaporation of moisture, but what reason would there be for trying to maintain a minimum engine coolant temperature, other than to maintain some minimum operating oil temp?


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

thegave said:


> I think it's common enough knowledge that cars have an optimum operating temperature - my question is can this be narrowed down to specifically engine oil? As in, does the coolant temperature matter as long as the oil is within the operating temperature range? There are plenty of reasons oil should be at a minimum temperature - lubricity, viscosity, and the evaporation of moisture, but what reason would there be for trying to maintain a minimum engine coolant temperature, other than to maintain some minimum operating oil temp?


Coolant does change with temperatures (particularly expansion) but unlike oil I think it's more about the overall temperature of the engine than it is the performance of the fluid itself. Even if the oil is warm, if the pistons, rings, sleeves, etc., aren't all at nominal temps, the engine can't be considered warmed up. 

Moreover, if the coolant is too cold, the heater won't work. Definitely important to have a minimum temperature, and that's both a function of the thermostat and the reason big diesel rigs will cover their grill with a "winterfront" when it's really cold out.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

bnkrpt311 said:


> I have an orange plastic tool box that makes everything smell like puke for some f'n reason. I took all the tools out and organized them into other bins and they still smell terrible. My wife just told me last week she is going to chuck it all in the trash and buy me new stuff.


It's the plastic breaking down and offgassing
https://medium.com/petroleum-servic...nd-rotting-butter-have-in-common-86225e6bd482



Medium said:


> As a whole, Cellulosics are characterized by good strength, toughness, and high surface gloss. CAB is a tough material with relatively low moisture absorption, high resistance to weathering, and excellent transparency. If your screwdriver handle is clear plastic, it could be a cellulosic.
> 
> Now, if your screwdriver is made of Cellulose Acetate Butyrate, the heart of your olfactory problem is butyric acid, which is produced by cellulose butyrate and cellulose acetate butyrate.
> 
> ...


We have a cheap old tool set at work and it smells TERRIBLE.


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

IJM said:


> If you break an axle (or shear off the splined part of the hub) in a FWD car with an open differential, you'll just go no where since you can't get power to the ground. The broken side will just spin freely. With an open diff, the same amount of torque (not power) is sent to both axles at all times. This sounds counter-intuitive, but it's true. Think about it this way: If one wheel is on ice and the other is on try pavement, there's only enough friction on the icy wheel to support a small amount of torque. Any additional torque just accelerates the wheel as it spins. That's the same amount of max torque that will go to the wheel with grip, hence why you go nowhere.
> 
> Here's a real-world example of what happens when the axle and wheel part ways. In this case it was a hub failure, but a catastrophic CV joint failure would produce a similar result, likely with the detached axle banging around. Notice how the revs climb as soon as the axle starts spinning inside the hub.


Well written response. I'd add that in a full failure like that it might be tempting to rev the car and hope it moves, but that's not a great idea. Any power you may get to the ground is just the resistance of the broken side spinning way too fast and is unlikely to move the car but very likely to make excess heat. In that video at the Glen, while I sure would be nervous sitting there, I believe the driver was right to get off the line and stop the car. I imagine the flaggers got a yellow out quickly.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

thegave said:


> I think it's common enough knowledge that cars have an optimum operating temperature - my question is can this be narrowed down to specifically engine oil? As in, does the coolant temperature matter as long as the oil is within the operating temperature range? There are plenty of reasons oil should be at a minimum temperature - lubricity, viscosity, and the evaporation of moisture, but what reason would there be for trying to maintain a minimum engine coolant temperature, other than to maintain some minimum operating oil temp?


The coolant doesn't have to be at a certain temperature per-se but the engine does for peak operating performance. It also has to be at a certain temperature for emissions purposes. The coolant keeps the engine at peak operating temperature. The thermostat routes the coolant in the block to the radiator when it reaches a certain minimum temperature. The fan switch (for cars with electric radiator fans) turns on the fan if the coolant reaches the maximum temperature. 

The oil doesn't appreciably affect the engine temperature. Its job is to provide lubrication at all engine temperatures. When the oil in the crankcase warms up the moisture will evaporate and when it gets a bit warmer, the oil itself will vaporize. In the old days, the oil vapor would be vented to the outside. Now the oil vapor gets re-routed to the intake.


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

thegave said:


> I think it's common enough knowledge that cars have an optimum operating temperature - my question is can this be narrowed down to specifically engine oil? As in, does the coolant temperature matter as long as the oil is within the operating temperature range? There are plenty of reasons oil should be at a minimum temperature - lubricity, viscosity, and the evaporation of moisture, but what reason would there be for trying to maintain a minimum engine coolant temperature, other than to maintain some minimum operating oil temp?


It's also handy to note the application of the engine. Track, road, purpose-built, etc.

For instance, when I was working on stock cars, the optimal oil temp was about 287*, that's when the engine made the most HP. So we tried to get the oil as hot as we could for qualifying. For the race we had it about 220-230* and water was 205-210*. One year we threw in a radiator/heat exchanger from a Cup team in our saturday night car. The water temp wouldn't climb past 170* with the standard grille. And since it was a heat exchanger, the oil temp dipped, too. The benefit was the ability to run nearly the entire grille taped off, adding more front downforce.

I'm not metallurgist, but I think it's probably more important to have a consistent temperature if you have say, an iron block and aluminum heads. They heat and cool differently. Back in the early 2000s in NASCAR Cup, the races would get hit with a rain delay, and the engines cooled down. When the race resumed, the engines went from cold to hot in minutes, and soon you'd see engine failures.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Interesting stuff. I’m grappling with what thermostat and fan switch combo to try but I always end up with coolant that’s too cool (stat and switch activate too early) or the coolant ends up overly warm. I’m sure part of the equation is the heat shedding ability of the radiator but from what I can tell the only downside of having perennially cool coolant seems to be reduced cabin heating.

Another question if I may. I have a modern car (2013) with modern a/c. If I wanted to replace my condenser because it’s been decimated by road debris, could I just disconnect the fittings and allow the refrigerant to leak all over my garage or will that kill me/the planet?


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## Just Another Sweater (Aug 11, 2002)

thegave said:


> Interesting stuff. I’m grappling with what thermostat and fan switch combo to try but I always end up with coolant that’s too cool (stat and switch activate too early) or the coolant ends up overly warm. I’m sure part of the equation is the heat shedding ability of the radiator but from what I can tell the only downside of having perennially cool coolant seems to be reduced cabin heating.
> 
> Another question if I may. I have a modern car (2013) with modern a/c. If I wanted to replace my condenser because it’s been decimated by road debris, could I just disconnect the fittings and allow the refrigerant to leak all over my garage or will that kill me/the planet?


You really need to take it to someone and reclaim the refrigerant gas. No idea how much it will cost.


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

thegave said:


> Another question if I may. I have a modern car (2013) with modern a/c. If I wanted to replace my condenser because it’s been decimated by road debris, could I just disconnect the fittings and allow the refrigerant to leak all over my garage or will that kill me/the planet?


Oh, absolutely take it somewhere that works on AC. Letting refrigerant vent is illegal, a serious health risk (you could accidentally suffocate--seriously), and harmful to the atmosphere. Well worth the cost to do it right. :beer:


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

thegave said:


> Interesting stuff. I’m grappling with what thermostat and fan switch combo to try but I always end up with coolant that’s too cool (stat and switch activate too early) or the coolant ends up overly warm. I’m sure part of the equation is the heat shedding ability of the radiator but from what I can tell the only downside of having perennially cool coolant seems to be reduced cabin heating.


Is there a reason you don't want the coolant at the correct temperature?


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

thegave said:


> Interesting stuff. I’m grappling with what thermostat and fan switch combo to try but I always end up with coolant that’s too cool (stat and switch activate too early) or the coolant ends up overly warm. I’m sure part of the equation is the heat shedding ability of the radiator but from what I can tell the only downside of having perennially cool coolant seems to be reduced cabin heating.


Most cars will run a little richer when cold to help get up to temp more quickly. When mine hits 180°F it leans way out and drops from using about .4 gallons per hour (fast idle) down to .18 GPH. 

In the winter when it's really cold and I have the heat blasting, at long traffic lights, the coolant temp drops into the 160s-170s and the ECU will raise the idle speed up to 1000-1100 from 750 to get it back to 180°F.

Get a ScanGuage or something similar - you can learn a lot. And some cars just run hotter. My old Ranger was always around 205-210°F and always felt hot under hood.

If a thermostat gets stuck open, the car will generally run okay but get crappy MPG since it rarely warms up all the way and won't lean out. Plus it can cause other issues like clogged-up cats since it's running rich all the time.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> Is there a reason you don't want the coolant at the correct temperature?


I can't find a t-stat/switch combo that will keep it ideal. The coolant car is not the modern a/c car, it's a terribly tuned CIS-turbo fun weekend/track toy. High consumption and rich mixture isn't really an issue.

As to the A/C condenser, I have the front end of that car all torn down to upgrade the intercooler and having noticed how banged up the condenser is, am loath to pay someone to tear it all down again to replace it later. But also not looking to gas myself so...


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

thegave said:


> I can't find a t-stat/switch combo that will keep it ideal. The coolant car is not the modern a/c car, it's a terribly tuned CIS-turbo fun weekend/track toy. High consumption and rich mixture isn't really an issue.


OIC. 

It used to be the "hot tip" to change the thermostat and radiator coolant switch to cooler versions but that was debunked as a performance upgrade for the street long ago. I think TT or maybe Autotech still sell a matched set. With any engine, it's best to get it running correctly before adding performance modifications.

If it's already modified, you have to decide if you want to go back to stock or try to work with what you have. If you take it back to stock, you can dial it in so it runs perfectly and go from there. Once you establish a baseline you can see what works and what doesn't.

It may be difficult or almost impossible to figure out what has already been done unless the previous owner tells you and provides documentation. If the previous owner messed with the CIS or CIS-E, they may have messed it up even if the engine itself is stock.

If you know where the previous owner bought the performance parts, you should be able to contact the aftermarket company to see if they have any tips. For instance, if it's a 16V with a set of TT cams, TT should be able to tell you what makes their cams happy. If it has race cams it's going to need more modifications to the rest of the engine. 

EDIT: I just re-read this and noticed it has a turbo. If it was a kit, the manufacturer should be able to help you. If it wasn't a kit you may be on your own.

Good luck. 



thegave said:


> As to the A/C condenser, I have the front end of that car all torn down to upgrade the intercooler and having noticed how banged up the condenser is, am loath to pay someone to tear it all down again to replace it later. But also not looking to gas myself so...


I would have to keep the A/C so if it was my car I'd buy a new condenser and have the A/C tech just replace it while he or she was there.

I paid more to buy tires for my Ford than I paid for it. I have probably paid about twice the purchase price over the years to keep the A/C working.


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## TJSwoboda (Feb 4, 2006)

All right, what the heck does this Concours meter thingy measure?


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

How does fluid get into the torque converter? I have never really been able to visually it and can't really find any diagrams.


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## ArmenB (Feb 8, 2002)

TJSwoboda said:


> All right, what the heck does this Concours meter thingy measure?


It's a paint thickness meter. It helps detect a repaint (if it wasn't taken back to bare metal) and poor quality body repairs.


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## ArmenB (Feb 8, 2002)

adrew said:


> How does fluid get into the torque converter? I have never really been able to visually it and can't really find any diagrams.


The nose/gears that engage the inside of the torque converter on the transmission side also flow fluid in and out of the TC. That's part of the reason that there are multiple gears to engage in 'stages' when you slide a torque converter onto the transmission - the direction of fluid flow matters a lot, and there is an "in" and an "out" from the TC.


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## ArmenB (Feb 8, 2002)

thegave said:


> Another question if I may. I have a modern car (2013) with modern a/c. If I wanted to replace my condenser because it’s been decimated by road debris, could I just disconnect the fittings and allow the refrigerant to leak all over my garage or will that kill me/the planet?


Others have covered this, but of course the right answer is to have it recovered/sucked out correctly by a professional. In my town, I've had an easy time with a local A/C shop being willing to suck it out for free, or for a minimal hookup fee of $50. The main risk to them is that older cars could have stop leak, or R12, or propane, or some other garbage inside that could contaminate their machines or tanks, so YMMV depending on the shop. They keep the refrigerant, but then it's empty and you can replace parts, pull a vacuum, and charge it yourself if desired and properly equipped. Or just do the replacement work and bring it back to them to vacuum and recharge.

Keep in mind that if you open the system to replace anything, you should also replace the receiver/drier.


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## TJSwoboda (Feb 4, 2006)

ArmenB said:


> It's a paint thickness meter. It helps detect a repaint (if it wasn't taken back to bare metal) and poor quality body repairs.


Ah! Makes sense. :thumbup:


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## elite.mafia (Mar 17, 2010)

In a manual gearbox car, it can sometimes be a bit hard to get the shifter into 1st while moving above a certain speed. That said, if I simply rev the engine, with the clutch pedal fully to the floor, it makes it easier. How does this make any sense?


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

elite.mafia said:


> In a manual gearbox car, it can sometimes be a bit hard to get the shifter into 1st while moving above a certain speed. That said, if I simply rev the engine, with the clutch pedal fully to the floor, it makes it easier. How does this make any sense?


Sounds like your clutch is still grabbing a little and spinning the input shaft up closer to vehicle speed. You should really have to double clutch for that to work, have you bled the clutch pedal recently? Alternative is that reving does nothing but inadvertently adds a time delay where the car is slowing faster than the input shaft.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Mine doesn't like going into 1st over about 15-20 MPH. I can press against the resistance and it will go in, but slightly unhappily and clunkily. Or double clutch (release clutch, blip the gas up to 3000-3500 RPM, clutch in and it will stick right in). Basically you're reducing the amount of work the synchros have to do.

I can NOT heel toe so I will sometimes double clutch into 2nd at 55-60 when I'm flying up to an off-ramp or sharp curve since I'm not coordinated enoght to do a rev matched downshift while braking.


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## elite.mafia (Mar 17, 2010)

ghost03 said:


> Sounds like your clutch is still grabbing a little and spinning the input shaft up closer to vehicle speed. You should really have to double clutch for that to work, have you bled the clutch pedal recently? Alternative is that reving does nothing but inadvertently adds a time delay where the car is slowing faster than the input shaft.


This isn't specific to my car, this is basically true for every manual car I've driven...


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## beefjerky (Dec 18, 2014)

elite.mafia said:


> This isn't specific to my car, this is basically true for every manual car I've driven...


I'd wager to guess that with 1st being such a short gear, the speed differential between gears is too much for the syncros to keep up with. I pretty much never downshift to first in the 6 manual cars I've had.


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

elite.mafia said:


> This isn't specific to my car, this is basically true for every manual car I've driven...


You're just talking about getting the gear to slot right? If the clutch is fully decoupled the engine speed has nothing to do with that, the synchro is matching vehicle speed to input shaft speed. If revving it _directly_ helps, then the clutch isn't fully decoupled. Could be the input shaft is still getting a little bit of speed from glances between the pressure plate and clutch disc, there's nothing in there holding them apart the pedal is just pulling pressure off the coupling.


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## elite.mafia (Mar 17, 2010)

ghost03 said:


> You're just talking about getting the gear to slot right? If the clutch is fully decoupled the engine speed has nothing to do with that, the synchro is matching vehicle speed to input shaft speed. If revving it _directly_ helps, then the clutch isn't fully decoupled. Could be the input shaft is still getting a little bit of speed from glances between the pressure plate and clutch disc, there's nothing in there holding them apart the pedal is just pulling pressure off the coupling.


yes I'm only talking about the moment when I have my foot fully to the floor on the clutch pedal and am trying to push the shifter into 1st. maybe it's just a placebo thing, IDK?


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

elite.mafia said:


> yes I'm only talking about the moment when I have my foot fully to the floor on the clutch pedal and am trying to push the shifter into 1st. maybe it's just a placebo thing, IDK?


Honestly I'm tempted to try it. In theory it shouldn't work but the bellhousing isn't a physics laboratory; I could see where a little motion might jostle things or kick the input shaft a little bit. That said:



adrew said:


> Or double clutch (release clutch, blip the gas up to 3000-3500 RPM, clutch in and it will stick right in). Basically you're reducing the amount of work the synchros have to do.


This is what I've always done and would recommend to get into first. With the transmission in neutral and clutch pedal up, engine speed = input shaft speed, and the clutch is closed and nice and solid.


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## subgraphic (Sep 14, 2003)

Why do some car's AC's stop blowing cold when you turn a hard corner? This has happened to me over the years, in several different cars. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯


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## elite.mafia (Mar 17, 2010)

subgraphic said:


> Why do some car's AC's stop blowing cold when you turn a hard corner? This has happened to me over the years, in several different cars. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯


the AC compressor will disengage under heavy acceleration, but IDK about a hard corner, never noticed that.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

elite.mafia said:


> In a manual gearbox car, it can sometimes be a bit hard to get the shifter into 1st while moving above a certain speed. That said, if I simply rev the engine, with the clutch pedal fully to the floor, it makes it easier. How does this make any sense?


I may be wrong, but I don't think most manual transmissions have synchronizers on first or reverse. (I can't find a reverence right now.)

The thinking is that you are stopped when you put it in first or reverse. You only need sychros on 2nd and above.

As far as the second part, I agree with what the others have alluded to. You are matching the revs to the gear speed.


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## CostcoPizza (Jan 20, 2008)

Synchronized first has been standard since the 60s - 70s. The MGB for instance received it in 68.


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## elite.mafia (Mar 17, 2010)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> I may be wrong, but I don't think most manual transmissions have synchronizers on first or reverse. (I can't find a reverence right now.)
> 
> The thinking is that you are stopped when you put it in first or reverse. You only need sychros on 2nd and above.
> 
> As far as the second part, I agree with what the others have alluded to. You are matching the revs to the gear speed.


I'm fairly certain every car I've driven has had synchros on first.


----------



## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

elite.mafia said:


> I'm fairly certain every car I've driven has had synchros on first.


 Same. Even my Scirocco has a syncronized first gear. It isn't the most amazing syncro, sure - but, it's there. Honestly, though, if it doesn't want to go into first, I'm probably going too fast for first.  Reverse, though... notsomuch. 
That said, my old '86 QSW _did_ have a syncronized reverse. That was nice, not needing to bring the car to an complete and absolute stop, just to put it in reverse.


----------



## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

cuppie said:


> Same. Even my Scirocco has a syncronized first gear. It isn't the most amazing syncro, sure - but, it's there. Honestly, though, if it doesn't want to go into first, I'm probably going too fast for first.  Reverse, though... notsomuch.
> That said, my old '86 QSW _did_ have a syncronized reverse. That was nice, not needing to bring the car to an complete and absolute stop, just to put it in reverse.


I stand corrected. I was too lazy to grab the Bentley so I looked it up online:

It's # 20:

020 VW Transmission parts (zelek.com)


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Granny shifting not double clutching like you should.


----------



## CostcoPizza (Jan 20, 2008)

It's pretty common advice to _not _rest your hand on a manual transmission while driving. The also common answer: it's bad for the shift detents.

Yet, enthusiasts also like to install weighted shift knobs. Isn't the extra weight just like someone resting their hand?


----------



## beefjerky (Dec 18, 2014)

CostcoPizza said:


> It's pretty common advice to _not _rest your hand on a manual transmission while driving. The also common answer: it's bad for the shift detents.
> 
> Yet, enthusiasts also like to install weighted shift knobs. Isn't the extra weight just like someone resting their hand?


Weight of a hand ~400 grams not counting the extra weight of your arm.
Weight of a weighted shifter can range from 150 to 400 grams from what I've seen
I'm not sure how much I buy the "hand on shifter is bad" rumor but there's some numbers for you


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I haven't heard of hand on shifter being bad, but the shift weight is dead until it's in motion, the kinetic energy of the moving weight providing the benefit. A hand is usually not disconnected from an arm, that can slightly tug on the shifter one way or the other and potentially preload the synchros. 

But again, unlikely that this will do damage or wear to the synchros 

Resting your foot on the clutch is bad, because that pressure translates into pressure on the throw out bearing, which can wear.


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

VDub2625 said:


> I haven't heard of hand on shifter being bad, but the shift weight is dead until it's in motion, the kinetic energy of the moving weight providing the benefit. A hand is usually not disconnected from an arm, that can slightly tug on the shifter one way or the other and potentially preload the synchros.
> 
> But again, unlikely that this will do damage or wear to the synchros


Resting your hand on the shifter won't hurt the synchros since 99% of the time you're doing it... the car is already in gear.

Resting your hand on the shifter wears the shift forks.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

That makes sense 👍


----------



## Nealric (Feb 16, 2013)

elite.mafia said:


> I'm fairly certain every car I've driven has had synchros on first.


Pretty much all modern manuals, but older ones commonly omitted a synchro in first. My Alfa has no first gear synchro. At a stop sign, you need to touch second or just start in second- it will grind if you throw it in reverse from anything but a dead stop.


----------



## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Surf Green said:


> Resting your hand on the shifter wears the shift forks.


Not as much of a concern on a cable-shifted FWD, tho? (Right?)


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

adrew said:


> Not as much of a concern on a cable-shifted FWD, tho? (Right?)


That first photo is of a VW Mk4 shift fork. I believe it's a cable shifted 02J. Look at those tiny little sliders compared to the transmission with a direct coupled shifter.
Some transmissions are clearly more robust, but for the sake of avoiding or correcting bad habits it's okay to generalize and say, "if you're not shifting it, you shouldn't be holding it."


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Isn't it also just better to keep two hands on the wheel?


----------



## elite.mafia (Mar 17, 2010)

thegave said:


> Isn't it also just better to keep two hands on the wheel?


Yes generally you should have 2 hands on the wheel except when shifting, or when applying makeup


----------



## VW...vw...wv...WV (Sep 7, 2005)

how to know if the engine and trans combo in the usa market tiguan 2.0 is the same as the mexican one?
i have read that the 2.0 sold in usa does not come with dsg but tiptronic, while the mexican vw website says it has a DSG tansmission....also read some info on the usa 2.0t is not the same as the 2.0t in mexico....so...how to know for sure?


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Here's a really dumb one - turbo wastegate (external) should be closed when the motor is just idling and under vacuum, right? Which means there should not be anything coming out of the wastegate dump pipe?

So if there's exhaust coming out of the wastegate dump pipe at idle, what could be the cause other than an overly weak wastegate spring?


----------



## Lawrider (May 16, 2010)

If you shift up through all the gears in a transmission, does that improve lubrication? I have a 7 speed DSG and i find myself usually in 6th gear on the highway, rarely going into 7th until traffic is light. Should i go into 7th even for a little bit of time to improve lubrication of the gears, or is that not an issue since the fluid gets distributed via shaft rotation regardless of the selected gear?


----------



## poops (May 10, 2004)

How do I explain how a car (ICE) works to a curious learner child?


----------



## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

poops said:


> How do I explain how a car (ICE) works to a curious learner child?


Pretty much the same as the other talk: Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow.


----------



## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

thegave said:


> Here's a really dumb one - turbo wastegate (external) should be closed when the motor is just idling and under vacuum, right? Which means there should not be anything coming out of the wastegate dump pipe?


That's correct, at least in every configuration I'm familiar with, the wastegate defaults to closed and is opened with pressure. Boost controllers can increase the cracking pressure above the wastegate spring by blocking or bleeding, but I'm not aware of any way to decrease the cracking pressure short of a fully electronic wastegate.



thegave said:


> So if there's exhaust coming out of the wastegate dump pipe at idle, what could be the cause other than an overly weak wastegate spring?


I can think of a few reasons; maybe the spring is weak, jammed, not installed correctly. Maybe there's damage to the housing. Could also be an issue with the boost controller (I've never seen it, but I've heard that a blocked bleed hole in a ball and spring MBC could hold pressure against the wastegate). If it's driven by a linkage that could be a problem too; I remember on an old K04 turbofold seeing the wastegate flop around until I had that all threaded up appropriately. Any more details you can share on what's going on?



Lawrider said:


> If you shift up through all the gears in a transmission, does that improve lubrication? I have a 7 speed DSG and i find myself usually in 6th gear on the highway, rarely going into 7th until traffic is light. Should i go into 7th even for a little bit of time to improve lubrication of the gears, or is that not an issue since the fluid gets distributed via shaft rotation regardless of the selected gear?


For lubrication, there isn't much need. It's a constant mesh transmission so if the car is moving all of the main gears are spinning. When it changes gears, it's not moving the gear, but instead coupling different sets of gears with dog tooth gears to change the mechanical path the torque takes through the transmission. And actually on a DSG if you're cruising in 6th, the dog gear for 7th is probably already in place anticipating an upshift. Most of the actual gearshifts are happening in advance between the two gear sets (1/3/5/7 & 2/4/6), with it only being put into effect when the clutches switch.



poops said:


> How do I explain how a car (ICE) works to a curious learner child?


I learned with one of these: https://www.amazon.com/MindBlown-DI...t=&hvlocphy=9005163&hvtargid=pla-837654401753


----------



## jon_570 (May 18, 2010)

thegave said:


> Here's a really dumb one - turbo wastegate (external) should be closed when the motor is just idling and under vacuum, right? Which means there should not be anything coming out of the wastegate dump pipe?
> 
> So if there's exhaust coming out of the wastegate dump pipe at idle, what could be the cause other than an overly weak wastegate spring?



Along with ghost03, there is also a fire ring that sits inside the wastegate when you bolt it to the manifold. Maybe there is a crack in that or something has damaged it. But, more than likely as ghost said, something wrong with the diaphragm or spring.


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

ghost03 said:


> Any more details you can share on what's going on?


It's a regular Tial-style external wastegate so it's just boost activated. Everything is totally analog; manual boost controller. The fire ring is a part of the gasket and I think they only exist on composite gaskets. I'm using a steel gasket. Gasket/housing issues should present as an exhaust leak at the wastegate itself and not through the dump tube? If the diaphragm has failed then the wastegate valve should remain closed as it cannot pressurize?

I can adjust the spring pressure in the wastegate so I'll turn that up and hope it works. It's very loud having the dump tube exhausting at idle.


----------



## jon_570 (May 18, 2010)

thegave said:


> It's a regular Tial-style external wastegate so it's just boost activated. Everything is totally analog; manual boost controller. The fire ring is a part of the gasket and I think they only exist on composite gaskets. I'm using a steel gasket. Gasket/housing issues should present as an exhaust leak at the wastegate itself and not through the dump tube? If the diaphragm has failed then the wastegate valve should remain closed as it cannot pressurize?
> 
> I can adjust the spring pressure in the wastegate so I'll turn that up and hope it works. It's very loud having the dump tube exhausting at idle.


I had a tial mvr 44mm gate which was a v-band style. The fire ring went around the valve itself on the manifold clamping side before you would actually clamp it to the manifold. If yours is a 2 bolt wastegate then youre right, it probably wont have this. It could have a bent shaft on the valve and it opened once and stuck open?


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

thegave said:


> It's a regular Tial-style external wastegate so it's just boost activated. Everything is totally analog; manual boost controller. The fire ring is a part of the gasket and I think they only exist on composite gaskets. I'm using a steel gasket. Gasket/housing issues should present as an exhaust leak at the wastegate itself and not through the dump tube? If the diaphragm has failed then the wastegate valve should remain closed as it cannot pressurize?
> 
> I can adjust the spring pressure in the wastegate so I'll turn that up and hope it works. It's very loud having the dump tube exhausting at idle.


FYI on Tial gates, there is a separate stainless sealing ring which puts preload pressure on the valve/spring as you tighten it down. (its like an insert, will look raised to the mount surface)
I can't tell you how many times I've seen tial WG leaking and they didn't put that ring in... countless.
WG

Your assumptions are right, without boost the diaphragm cannot open. If the diaphragm is damaged, it will not create the differential pressure to pull open the valve


----------



## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

Calling armchair oil experts (which is usually a mistake, but here goes). 

I have about 50-55k miles (~85k kms) on my now 10-year-old Mustang GT. I have been running dino oil since factory, but want to switch to synthetic soon. Should I just do a straight swap and stop worrying or are there complications with switching later in the game?


----------



## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

Elite_Deforce said:


> Calling armchair oil experts (which is usually a mistake, but here goes).
> 
> I have about 50-55k miles (~85k kms) on my now 10-year-old Mustang GT. I have been running dino oil since factory, but want to switch to synthetic soon. Should I just do a straight swap and stop worrying or are there complications with switching later in the game?


Switch and enjoy.


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## ThatsGoodT (Jun 29, 2002)

I was behind a Nissan Leaf as the light turned green. It crept forward really slowly and said to myself "Come on, hit the gas peddle!". I then realized it's was an EV... no "gas" peddle. What should I have exclaimed?

Hit the electric peddle!
Hit the electricity peddle!
Hit the battery peddle!
Hit the go peddle!

Some kind of fule-specific phrase is needed here.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

Not sure what you're trying to peddle here, but okay.


----------



## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

ThatsGoodT said:


> I was behind a Nissan Leaf as the light turned green. It crept forward really slowly and said to myself "Come on, hit the gas peddle!". I then realized it's was an EV... no "gas" peddle. What should I have exclaimed?
> 
> Hit the electric peddle!
> Hit the electricity peddle!
> ...


Even 'throttle' doesn't work with EVs since there's no throttle plate. Hell, "throttle" doesn't work with diesels either for the same reason. Unlike gasoline cars, diesels are fuel-limited and not air-limited.

The most generic word that works for all of then is 'accelerator' or 'accelerator pedal,' however, in the strictest _physics_ sense, the go-pedal, the brake-pedal and the steering wheel are all "accelerators."


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

I'd probably call it a "torque requester". Even in gas engines this is probably a more rigorous name, with drive-by-wire, electronic controls, traction control, etc., it's been a long time since there was a 1:1 link between the pedal and the motor. Boil it down and what we're really doing is asking the car for torque. Most of the time it will oblige.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Surf Green said:


> Not sure what you're trying to peddle here, but okay.


:laugh:

But seriously, it's been a non-issue for diesels, which don't use gas or throttles, so...


----------



## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

VDub2625 said:


> But seriously, it's been a non-issue for diesels, which don't use gas or throttles, so...


FWIW, they do put throttles on plenty of late-model diesels. It's not really controlling torque or acceleration and the engines can run without them, but they're apparently helpful for emissions/EGR as well as smoother shutoffs.


----------



## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

VDub2625 said:


> But seriously, it's been a non-issue for diesels, which don't use gas or throttles, so...


Diesels still throttle fuel, just not air.


----------



## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

I just ordered an OE air filter for my Mustang. I received it like this. Looks like it was put down on a small puddle of oil ?? or something and there are black spots. Is this just the lubricant they use for the filter surrounds? Should I bother returning it?


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## Just Another Sweater (Aug 11, 2002)

I would send the retailer a picture and ask them 'what's up with this'.

In reality, it probably doesn't matter and might just be a manufacturing defect.


----------



## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

Elite_Deforce said:


> I just ordered an OE air filter for my Mustang. I received it like this. Looks like it was put down on a small puddle of oil ?? or something and there are black spots. Is this just the lubricant they use for the filter surrounds? Should I bother returning it?


I've never seen a new air filter like that. Not sure it's super alarming, but as above I think contacting the retailer is a good idea. Presumably you'll either have a new filter or a record of them saying "it's fine," neither of which is a bad thing.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

It looks like the sealant that's used to join the filter media to the rubber surround.


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

Surf Green said:


> It looks like the sealant that's used to join the filter media to the rubber surround.


That makes sense. Is it worth trying to return it you think?

This is Rockauto btw.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Try it, they may end up sending a refund without asking for the product to be returned.


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

Looks like they are sending me a free replacement and that I can keep the old part "for now". I guess I could have my mechanic look at it to see if I could still use it and then just have 2 air filters for the future? Yay?

Also mods, can we please sticky this thread? One of the few I think should be stickied.


----------



## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

Elite_Deforce said:


> Looks like they are sending me a free replacement and that I can keep the old part "for now". I guess I could have my mechanic look at it to see if I could still use it and then just have 2 air filters for the future? Yay?
> 
> Also mods, can we please sticky this thread? One of the few I think should be stickied.


Using that filter is probably fine--even if air can't pass there it's not much different than a seed or leaf blocking element, and if it's sealant as suggested above, I can't imagine it would ruin the paper or anything. But nobody can tell you it's fine with 100% confidence (probably why they're sending you a new one), so ultimately it's up to you and your risk tolerance. From what I can see in the pictures, I wouldn't lose any sleep running it, but there's people here that would dumpster it immediately as well.


----------



## rickhamilton620 (May 27, 2015)

This is dumb but i've googled after hearing it mentioned in SavageGeese's video review of the Arteon ( 



 ) and couldn't figure it out. - Does the US spec Arteon have a different/inferior 2.0T than other countries? I don't think has the Budak 2.0T like Passat/Tiguan does...


----------



## Pupperoni (Mar 17, 2017)

Has anyone ever used a power brake bleeder like this? 









0118 Black Label Late Model GM/Tesla Some Mazda and Fords Power Bleeder


Black Label Power Bleeder- pressure brake bleeder, 2 quart capacity, with Billet Aluminum adapter (1118)- (enhanced version of model 0108) includes a machinedaluminum adapter cap . Kit comes with 6 feet of tubingstandard kits are three feet. The 1118 adapter fits on all late model GM cars with...




www.motiveproducts.com





I was thinking I am due to flush brakes on two cars, one being the Corvette before an upcoming track day since I am unsure when the last time it was ever done. I have used a vacuum handheld bleeder in the past but always felt I had to do the traditional pedal method at the end regardless and was wondering if these are a worthy investment to make it a one person job.


----------



## Nealric (Feb 16, 2013)

Pupperoni said:


> Has anyone ever used a power brake bleeder like this?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yes. It's what I use. Makes bleeding a piece of cake with one person.


----------



## Smigelski (Dec 9, 2008)

Pupperoni said:


> Has anyone ever used a power brake bleeder like this?
> 
> 
> 
> ...



These are well-regarded in the Miata community. The biggest downside to them is that, to work on different cars, you may need different adapters to work on different master cylinders.

You can buy something like this that attached to the bleeders, so it would work on every car:



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015POUXM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1



I bought this so that I could evacuate oil _and_ do brake fluid changes with the same tool.




https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7300-PneumatiVac-Air-Operated-Evacuator/dp/B000JFN9WW/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=brake+fluid+evacuator&qid=1618500487&sr=8-2


----------



## kidshorty (Jun 21, 2002)

Is it wrong to assume a new car should be in proper alignment?

Bought a new 2020 Tiguan from a dealer 150 miles away about a year ago. My wife drove it back. Since we bought it, I've put about 2500 miles on it including a few trips across state. I feel like it pulls to the right. In fact, on an area of the highway near my house, my other 3 cars all track straight whereas it pulls.

The original dealer is too far away and I didn't notice it until I really started driving it a few months after we got it. I took it in for a software update at a local dealer and mentioned it to them. They told me they'd look at it but it would take 5 hours because they'd have to check the sensors. I dropped it off and got it back 3 days later. They said they checked the alignment and it was within specs (but they did not have a readout to show me despite me asking). They also said it tracked straight on a test drive. I didn't get a survey and they didn't list any alignment as being done on the invoice, so I think they half-assed it

It is due for an inspection, so I was going to pony up and have a different dealer do that and an alignment at the same time. I've just never had to align a car after buying it. I also just might be nuts.


----------



## elite.mafia (Mar 17, 2010)

Pupperoni said:


> Has anyone ever used a power brake bleeder like this?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


yeah I just bought one of those handheld vacuum bleeders and wasted a lot of time realizing that I cannot get it to work correctly as air keeps getting in the line no matter what I do. had to have somebody hold the pedal down to get it bled correctly. I had better results with my one man bleeder nipple


----------



## AlphaBetaJetta (Sep 24, 2017)

Pupperoni said:


> Has anyone ever used a power brake bleeder like this?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I used this product. It works well. I used the handheld vacuum bleeder first only to realize i was wasting time. 

Motive power bleeder is not perfect, but it’s way better than the vacuum bleeder. 

It only takes forever to get to 15 psi pressure! 
Hint: pump quickly!! That’s the only way to get to 15psi in less than 10 minutes. 


——————————-
2014 Jetta 1.8T SE AT


----------



## Sold Over Sticker (Nov 29, 2009)

kidshorty said:


> Is it wrong to assume a new car should be in proper alignment?
> 
> Bought a new 2020 Tiguan from a dealer 150 miles away about a year ago. My wife drove it back. Since we bought it, I've put about 2500 miles on it including a few trips across state. I feel like it pulls to the right. In fact, on an area of the highway near my house, my other 3 cars all track straight whereas it pulls.
> 
> ...


I've driven plenty of new cars that were out of alignment, and many VW's that were aligned straight but the steering wheel was off a spline (looking at you MkV's). Some get built and aren't aligned well enough, some get knocked out of alignment during shipping, and some get bumped around on the lot. It's why I tell people to always drive the new car they're going to buy before they sign the paperwork.


----------



## kidshorty (Jun 21, 2002)

Thanks a ton! I definitely would have caught it right away.


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

kidshorty said:


> Thanks a ton! I definitely would have caught it right away.


There is also characteristics of the vehicle suspension and tire which tracks the road, not all vehicles are going to react the same.
When a vehicle leaves the factory 99% of the time its within the spec, there are checks and balances which wont allow a vehicle to leave the alignment rack.... after that point no guarantees.
Build specs are not as accurate as you may think vehicle to vehicle due to the vast variation in manufacturing. 
If a vehicle is built towards the limit, I imagine its more likely to get out of spec. I recall a friend of mine had either a Golf or A3 which at a certain point in its young life was no longer possible to adjust the RR wheels in spec. Dealer replaced the entire rear suspension and subframe and it still ate tires.... he tried to get them to buy it back.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I also know VW intentionally skews alignment to the left (I think either accident safety or road crown?). It's beena long time since I've seen the info on it but they do not center it.


----------



## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

VDub2625 said:


> I also know VW intentionally skews alignment to the left (I think either accident safety or road crown?). It's beena long time since I've seen the info on it but they do not center it.


Wat. So all VWs veer left?


----------



## Strange Mud (Oct 20, 2017)

+1?!


----------



## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

The factory writes the alignment specifications so if VW skewed alignment to the left at the factory, then you could never get a true alignment because all alignment shops would use the same factory specifications. 

If they were going to intentionally make a car veer through misalignment, it would be away from oncoming traffic, not towards it.


----------



## Strange Mud (Oct 20, 2017)

real question and to make up for it I'll even give my guess as to the answer:

This applies more to MT's. Why don't mfr's gear reverse as a real "granny" gear so when you are backing up idle speed is only 2 mph? This would prevent you from having to feather (slip) the clutch in many situations.

My guess is it's something to do with room inside the transmission case and gear size.


----------



## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> If they were going to intentionally make a car veer through misalignment, it would be away from oncoming traffic, not towards it.


You're probably right 🤣it may have been right, not left.


----------



## kidshorty (Jun 21, 2002)

VDub2625 said:


> You're probably right 🤣it may have been right, not left.


So mine pulls to the right. Ever so slightly. Being the newest car I own by about 8 years, my thinking was that I am just being paranoid and that maybe the car is overly responsive. I'm just going to suck it up and get an alignment. 

Next dumb question: are all alignment places considered equal? I'm talking abut the chain stores like the Firestones of the world and the dealer. Debating on having the dealer tackle it or spring for one of those Firestone 3 or 5 year plans.


----------



## Strange Mud (Oct 20, 2017)

Kid,

it is more if the tech is good or not. w/o insulting or reading back have you checked air pressure?

Mud


----------



## kidshorty (Jun 21, 2002)

Strange Mud said:


> Kid,
> 
> it is more if the tech is good or not. w/o insulting or reading back have you checked air pressure?
> 
> Mud


yep, all good there.


----------



## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Strange Mud said:


> real question and to make up for it I'll even give my guess as to the answer:
> 
> This applies more to MT's. Why don't mfr's gear reverse as a real "granny" gear so when you are backing up idle speed is only 2 mph? This would prevent you from having to feather (slip) the clutch in many situations.
> 
> My guess is it's something to do with room inside the transmission case and gear size.


I think your idle is too high. Do you wait for the idle come down after starting when it's cold if it's on the cold enrichment circuit?

I have never slipped the clutch to back up on any car. If it's going too fast in reverse, try the brakes.

On my automatic cars, I usually just idle in reverse unless I need to go faster. With my manual cars, I usually have to give them gas in reverse. They would all probably stall if let the clutch out without giving it any gas.

As to your question, I think almost all reverse gears are grannie gears compared to first (unless your first is an actual grannie gear). The only vehicles I have driven with grannie first gears have been trucks. For normal driving, you start out in 2nd.

There was a French or English car with the same numbers of gears in reverse with the same gear ratio as in forward. If I remember correctly te transmission functioned exactly the same but used the differential to choose forward or reverse. L.J.K Setright wrote about going like 60 in reverse and putting the car in a ditch with a bunch of his friends. Later, they saw a cop who said he saw a car speeding down the road in reverse. They told him he must have been seeing things. That's the only car I have heard of that didn't have a grannie gear reverse gear.


Here's the only chart I found so far with rear ratios:


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

Strange Mud said:


> real question and to make up for it I'll even give my guess as to the answer:
> 
> This applies more to MT's. Why don't mfr's gear reverse as a real "granny" gear so when you are backing up idle speed is only 2 mph? This would prevent you from having to feather (slip) the clutch in many situations.
> 
> My guess is it's something to do with room inside the transmission case and gear size.


Not sure if I understand your question clearly.

What I think you are asking, why is Reverse Gear Ratio such that the top speed is only 2mph (@ what engine speed)?
If this is the case; my answer = the vehicle speed has relationship to the engine speed, so when the vehicle speed closes on 0mph, so does the engine, stalling. 
Reverse gear is usually slightly higher ratio than 1st to reduce the wheel torque is my understanding. Maybe someone has some trans design experience can chime in.


----------



## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Miata is always the answer.


----------



## whitejeep1989 (May 15, 2007)

My Mk7 GTI flashes the seatbelt warning alarm when my iPhone is alone on the front passenger seat. Why?


----------



## Just Another Sweater (Aug 11, 2002)

Let's get back on track here...


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## Alpinweiss2 (Jan 9, 2017)

Just Another Sweater said:


> Let's get back on track here...


Yes, back on track. Or is it trak?

A Siemens Charger for you:









🍺


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

kidshorty said:


> Next dumb question: are all alignment places considered equal? I'm talking abut the chain stores like the Firestones of the world and the dealer. Debating on having the dealer tackle it or spring for one of those Firestone 3 or 5 year plans.


I used to go to a local place that I liked a lot for alignments. Then, one day, I asked them if they set it to OE specs (that I had looked up), or what. They told me they set every car at 0 toe, 0 camber, no matter what. I stopped using them.

Most alignment machines have you select the car, and then dial in the numbers to factor spec. But yes, it's about the quality of tech and how much work they want to put into it. Alignments are (mostly) all the same procedure nowadays.


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## gotcha640 (Aug 23, 2014)

Strange Mud said:


> real question and to make up for it I'll even give my guess as to the answer:
> 
> This applies more to MT's. Why don't mfr's gear reverse as a real "granny" gear so when you are backing up idle speed is only 2 mph? This would prevent you from having to feather (slip) the clutch in many situations.
> 
> My guess is it's something to do with room inside the transmission case and gear size.


Gear ratios of a 2018 miata, for consideration.

I don't think I'd want a granny gear for reverse. Sometimes I want to back all the way out of a parking row, or down a long driveway, or around the cones in a parking lot for the dinner bill. 

It's been a long day and I may be a drink or three in, but my suburban has low range of 2.72:1, so if reverse was a little more than a third the speed of first, you'd be redlining at 12mph.


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## gotcha640 (Aug 23, 2014)

kidshorty said:


> So mine pulls to the right. Ever so slightly. Being the newest car I own by about 8 years, my thinking was that I am just being paranoid and that maybe the car is overly responsive. I'm just going to suck it up and get an alignment.
> 
> Next dumb question: are all alignment places considered equal? I'm talking abut the chain stores like the Firestones of the world and the dealer. Debating on having the dealer tackle it or spring for one of those Firestone 3 or 5 year plans.


If you aren't happy with the alignment as it stands, you could call an independent shop and ask if they will align to your request. Tell them you want straight, not factory. You'll probably pay for a second alignment if you don't like how it goes, since you're telling them to do something different.

Might be worth rotating tires, see how it goes, and getting them balanced. I bought tires at Discount about 5 years and three cars ago, and they still balance whatever I drive in for free.


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

whitejeep1989 said:


> My Mk7 GTI flashes the seatbelt warning alarm when my iPhone is alone on the front passenger seat. Why?


IIRC those sensors aren't actually pressure sensors, but instead capacitive, much like a phone's touch screen. So really it's looking for something that is sufficiently conductive, and apparently your phone sometimes meets that threshold.


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## VWestlife (Sep 29, 2004)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> There was a French or English car with the same numbers of gears in reverse with the same gear ratio as in forward. If I remember correctly te transmission functioned exactly the same but used the differential to choose forward or reverse. L.J.K Setright wrote about going like 60 in reverse and putting the car in a ditch with a bunch of his friends. Later, they saw a cop who said he saw a car speeding down the road in reverse. They told him he must have been seeing things. That's the only car I have heard of that didn't have a grannie gear reverse gear.


That was the DAF Variomatic CVT. It could go equally fast forwards and backwards.


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## Strange Mud (Oct 20, 2017)

thx to those that chimed in on reverse speed. I did a bit of experimenting today and with engine warm idle speed of around 800 that ends up being 5 mph in reverse. I understand that's normal but wish it ended up being way less. I don't think braking as someone suggested will work for MT because then you'll be super lugging engine or slipping clutch. reverse is geared similar to 1st and you can easily do 30 in first....I have only ever had to go faster than 10 in reverse 1x but that involved a ups truck that stopped and proceded to back up 200-300?' and I was trying not to get hit as he was backing up in the road and I was behind him.

Mud


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

Strange Mud said:


> thx to those that chimed in on reverse speed. I did a bit of experimenting today and with engine warm idle speed of around 800 that ends up being 5 mph in reverse. I understand that's normal but wish it ended up being way less. I don't think braking as someone suggested will work for MT because then you'll be super lugging engine or slipping clutch. reverse is geared similar to 1st and you can easily do 30 in first....I have only ever had to go faster than 10 in reverse but that involved a ups truck that stopped and proceded to back up 200-300?' and I was trying not to get hit as he was backing up in the road and I was behind him.
> 
> Mud


YMMV but I rarely have the clutch all the way out in reverse on MT cars. Just slip enough to get the car rolling and then back in, then a bit more slip if I need more go. Short pulses as opposed to riding shouldn't burn anything up. But yes you're right, it's due to gear size. Reverse typically has its own idler/shaft (4 in the picture) and to gear it down would directly correlate to a bigger transmission, so it's usually geared high as reasonable.


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## Strange Mud (Oct 20, 2017)

and that's what I do (the short pulses). I admit to being proud of my guess as to reason on gearing if you are correct.


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> I have never slipped the clutch to back up on any car. If it's going too fast in reverse, try the brakes.


Perhaps we are misunderstanding each other, but are you suggesting you dump your clutch to back up every time? 

I don't see how you can reverse in a parking lot without slipping the clutch to do so.


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## Seabird (Feb 8, 2002)

New dumb question that I don't think deserves its own thread...

I think round taillights are the business, and it used to be that you could find them on reasonably priced cars. Now it seems they're only available on exotics. Are there any _NEW_ cars with round taillights available in NA for <$100K?

Oh, and the whole light needs to be round. Round elements within a strip configuration don't count.


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## Silly_me (Jul 26, 1999)

Seabird said:


> _NEW_ cars with round taillights available in NA for <$100K?


GTR is sorta almost at 100k


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## DonL (Feb 28, 1999)

I'll just toss this out there. Anybody with experience with the Fiesta/Focus/maybe Fusion style strut bearings? 

I put together a strut assembly for the party-ishtbox with new OEM springs, OEM strut bearings, and Koni STR.T dampers. Fully assembled, the bearings basically don't want to turn. It takes a lot of effort to get them to move. Backing off the strut shaft nut a touch allows the mount to turn, but the shaft/bearing still doesn't. My thoughts are that either the spring load is holding the bearing tight, or the spring load is pressing the shaft/piston against the inside of the strut body, prohibiting it from easy movement. 

So, after a couple of emails exchanged with Koni, they said that they don't consider this particular type of bearing a true bearing, like a VW, for example, but a thrust collar, and that the effort to turn the mount will increase significantly when the spring compressors are eased off and removed. 

Anybody else see something like this? It's just kinda weird. Koni says it's fine, but I'm not used to something like this. Not that I really miss the MkII and MkIII mount and bearing setups, after all.


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## Seabird (Feb 8, 2002)

Silly_me said:


> GTR is sorta almost at 100k


Nissan says it starts at $113,5. Not quite. I found some Evoras online for $$99K and change. And I forgot about the Alfa 4C. Those start at around $70K.

So, still semi-exotics and not what most people would consider “reasonably” priced. Bummer.


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## Silly_me (Jul 26, 1999)

Seabird said:


> So, still semi-exotics and not what most people would consider “reasonably” priced. Bummer.


Agreed. I think the last "affordable" I can recall was the C6.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

VWestlife said:


> That was the DAF Variomatic CVT. It could go equally fast forwards and backwards.


There must have been two then. I think it was also a French car, but from the '30s (as I recall).


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## Seabird (Feb 8, 2002)

Silly_me said:


> Agreed. I think the last "affordable" I can recall was the C6.


Exactly what came to my mind as well.


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## loyfah (Nov 12, 2007)

I have a question about break discs. Now that electric cars are more common. Rusting break discs are a common issue since the car breaks with energy recovery.

Is there a product that promise rust free / low corrosion discs? 

I have google this before, and i found this: EBC BSD brake discs are corrosion proof with silent braking

but i dont know how true the claims are.


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## definium 8k (Jun 18, 2007)

I have a Chevy Volt (plug-in hybrid) which does a lot of regenerative braking. GM, supposedly, formulated the rotors to "anti-corrosion". I haven't noticed any significant rust on mine.  I do purposively, drop into neutral at speed to force the friction brakes to engage and scrub any light accumulated rust from the surface of the rotors.


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## DneprDave (Sep 8, 2018)

Regenerative braking is more like shifting a regular car down a gear or two to slow it down, it not a brake that can be used to stop a vehicle. Real friction brakes are still needed to stop the car.


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## loyfah (Nov 12, 2007)

DneprDave said:


> Regenerative braking is more like shifting a regular car down a gear or two to slow it down, it not a brake that can be used to stop a vehicle. Real friction brakes are still needed to stop the car.


Yes, you are correct. But the issue of rusted disc are a big problem on e-golf, GTE, leafs and Souls. Because breaks are used a lot less than usual. To clean the discs from rust you usually need to break hard once in a while, but a normal driver dont know this.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

VW has a "brake wipe" feature that lightly applies the brakes every so often to keep the rotors dry when the wipers are on. I'm sure hybrids do a similar thing to keep the brakes clean. I'm probably wrong though


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## loyfah (Nov 12, 2007)

VDub2625 said:


> VW has a "brake wipe" feature that lightly applies the brakes every so often to keep the rotors dry when the wipers are on. I'm sure hybrids do a similar thing to keep the brakes clean. I'm probably wrong though



Really? I didn't know that !


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

I’m in the early stages of a very complex car build and came across a concern: is the alternator required? Can you start an engine twice on an alternator-less setup? One to fire and another if you stall or something. 

This is entirely a show / patience car, so yes it would always be on a charger if not running around shows.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

I feel like it depends how long you drive it on the battery and what accessories are used. I've driven fuel-injected cars 30 minutes on the battery (like if the alternator belt pops) and it was fine but stuff started acting weird toward the end.

We were on a family trip back in the early '90s ... one uncle had a '80s Chevy van and the other had a '77 Surburban. The Suburban's alternator went out so we stopped every 45 minutes or so to swap batteries between the vehicles so the van could charge the Suburban's battery. 

Given how people can crank a car having starting problems for 30 seconds or a minute at a time, I feel like you have several decent 1-second cranks in there even with some driving mixed in. But I wouldn't expect to drive more than 20-30 minutes.


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

Ohh that’s a good point. I suppose id also risk damaging the battery if it’s fully drained before being recharged.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

You won't get far running without an alternator unless you have a trunk full of batteries. That's no problem if you tow it to shows.

If it was a distributor car, you could get a magneto if they still make them. 

The alternator is driven by the same belt that runs the water pump.

Are you going to run a shorter fan belt or serpentine belt?


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> You won't get far running without an alternator unless you have a trunk full of batteries. That's no problem if you tow it to shows.
> 
> If it was a distributor car, you could get a magneto if they still make them.
> 
> ...


Sky’s the limit here. I’m just thinking how I want to minimize the wiring / harness. It wouldn’t have turn signals, headlights, horn, etc.


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

TooFitToQuit said:


> Sky’s the limit here. I’m just thinking how I want to minimize the wiring / harness. It wouldn’t have turn signals, headlights, horn, etc.


Ignition, ECU, injection, etc. all need power, and not a particularly trivial amount. If you went without an alternator you could probably start the car a few times and drive around a little bit, but the car could stall at any moment, the ECU could be damaged by low voltage, and unless upgraded to a deep cycle the battery would take damage. I wouldn't ever recommend intetionally deleting an alternator unless under significant duress, it's not safe to do so.

One exception which may not apply to your situation. Really old diesel vehicles can be jump or bump started and do not require power to run as there's no ignition. They're frequently used around radio telescopes due to the absence of electrical noise.


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

ghost03 said:


> Ignition, ECU, injection, etc. all need power, and not a particularly trivial amount. If you went without an alternator you could probably start the car a few times and drive around a little bit, but the car could stall at any moment, the ECU could be damaged by low voltage, and unless upgraded to a deep cycle the battery would take damage. I wouldn't ever recommend intetionally deleting an alternator unless under significant duress, it's not safe to do so.
> 
> One exception which may not apply to your situation. Really old diesel vehicles can be jump or bump started and do not require power to run as there's no ignition. They're frequently used around radio telescopes due to the absence of electrical noise.


This is the level of info I was after. Thank you!

As a thanks, I’ll tell you the build: prowler with a 2JZ and sequential trans, nitrous, full custom body, and 24x15s in the back. Think Aussie burnout car meets hot rod.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

ghost03 said:


> Ignition, ECU, injection, etc. all need power, and not a particularly trivial amount. If you went without an alternator you could probably start the car a few times and drive around a little bit, but the car could stall at any moment, the ECU could be damaged by low voltage, and unless upgraded to a deep cycle the battery would take damage. I wouldn't ever recommend intetionally deleting an alternator unless under significant duress, it's not safe to do so.
> 
> One exception which may not apply to your situation. Really old diesel vehicles can be jump or bump started and do not require power to run as there's no ignition. They're frequently used around radio telescopes due to the absence of electrical noise.


My experience differs. Killed an alternator driving through mud puddles. Drove it the 40 miles home on only the battery. Didn’t have enough juice to restart the car, but it made it. And this was on who knows how old battery in my 91 pathfinder. 

Firing injectors and coils doesn’t take that much power. I bet running the heater fan is a very comparable draw compared to keeping the engine running. 

If this is a trailer queen, no alternator will be fine. I would disconnect the battery for long storages, and top it off with a battery maintainer a week a two before use.


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

Bad Rabbit Habit said:


> My experience differs. Killed an alternator driving through mud puddles. Drove it the 40 miles home on only the battery. Didn’t have enough juice to restart the car, but it made it. And this was on who knows how old battery in my 91 pathfinder.
> 
> Firing injectors and coils doesn’t take that much power. I bet running the heater fan is a very comparable draw compared to keeping the engine running.
> 
> If this is a trailer queen, no alternator will be fine. I would disconnect the battery for long storages, and top it off with a battery maintainer a week a two before use.


Respectfully, you did it once on one car on an emergency basis—that’s very different from intending to do it repeatedly. He’s talking about a design decision here, in which case we have to weigh the cost of install (low) vs. the risk of failure (low) multiplied by the mode of failure (potentially catastrophic), meaning it’s just a bad decision to go without. I mean, even F1 cars have alternators, or at least they did until KERS.


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## 88c900t (Jul 7, 2014)

How do you adjust adjustable coilovers? (I have the tool)

Is re-charging A/C something I can do at home?


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

88c900t said:


> How do you adjust adjustable coilovers? (I have the tool)


What coilovers on what car? Some have preload independent from right height; it's a better adjustment that way but slightly more involved.

If there's only a preload adjustment, that can be used to adjust height. Typically there's two collars, upper is holding the spring and lower is locking everything in place. You can back off the lower and then turn the upper one up or down depending on whether you want to raise or lower. Count the number of turns and be precise so you can get it even across the axle, and know how much change you made. When finished adjusting, bring the lower collar up to the upper one and make sure the two are tight together so it doesn't get loose.

You may also want to clean the threads first depending on what you find in there. I like simplegreen but there's all kinds of stuff you could use for that.



88c900t said:


> Is re-charging A/C something I can do at home?


Yes but you might not want to. The $20 kits at the autoparts stores are easy to use and generally work, but they often have junk in them to seal up pinholes which otherwise isn't great for the system. If it's a hooptie you just don't want to get sweaty in, go for it, but if it's a recently out of warranty car, it's probably worth it for a shop to do it the right way.


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## TooFitToQuit (Jun 6, 2003)

88c900t said:


> How do you adjust adjustable coilovers? (I have the tool)
> 
> Is re-charging A/C something I can do at home?


Coilovers: you’re basically using the wrench to spin a pair of identical nuts on a threaded shaft surrounded by a spring. The nuts just use each other as pressure to stay in their location on the shaft. If you adjust them so the spring is longer, it will naturally want to spread back to its uncompressed length, so by adjusting the nuts away from the spring, you increase ride height—a longer spring is taller. Does that make sense?

Yes you can recharge your AC if you have a current type. I’m not sure which one that is off hand; I think even the two main types are easily accessible at a parts store to DIY.

edit: just realized it was an older reply. Sorry!


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## pontiac (Aug 3, 2009)

Ok guys, how screwed am I? Doing an ATF drain and fill on the Civic and a small piece of plastic broke off the funnel and fell into the trans. I can't reach it with anything I have here. Would a shop be able to suck it out with an extractor?


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## 4.OMG (Dec 20, 2004)

How does factory "privacy glass" on SUVs compare to aftermarket tint of the same VLT % in terms of UV protection and keeping the interior cool?

In other words, if I had an SUV with factory tint on the rear passenger doors, quarter windows and rear windshield and wanted to tint the front windows to match, is there a benefit to also adding aftermarket tint to the rest of the windows?


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## dan of montana (Mar 30, 2015)

pontiac said:


> Ok guys, how screwed am I? Doing an ATF drain and fill on the Civic and a small piece of plastic broke off the funnel and fell into the trans. I can't reach it with anything I have here. Would a shop be able to suck it out with an extractor?


Similar to getting a pick out of an acoustic guitar, you're going to want to pick the car up over head with the drain hole pointed down and shake a few times until the plastic bit comes out.


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## Just Another Sweater (Aug 11, 2002)

Is there a 'fix' for the A3/S3 airbag recall on the horizon? They look to be a good buy during this unusual time but I'd hate to buy a car that is esensually an Uber ride for the foreseeable future.


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## NotFast (Mar 20, 2002)

Our 15 year old/120k mile Hemi V8 power apparently starting burning oil over the winter - you can smell it pretty bad after it's been driven. Strangely enough it was right after the rear suspension was completely replaced.

I've never had this before and Google isn't giving me a straight up answer: what can I expect to be wrong and how easy is the fix? Maybe it needs new piston rings? Or should I simply try running some Seafoam through the engine to see if that helps?

Thanks.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Did you go to a MOPAR forum?

Does the oil level actually go down fast or is the only symptom the smell?

Burning oil smell in the cockpit or out the exhaust?

Oil burning smell inside the car is possibly a PCV problem.

Using oil could be from rings or valves or valve stem seals or other. (Oil leaking from valve cover gasket onto exhaust manifold, oil leaking from oil sender onto exhaust, etc..)

Smoke on acceleration or deceleration?

Black smoke or blue smoke?

A mechanic would probably be able to pinpoint the cause in minutes. Slightly longer if they did compression checks.

When I was young and heard knocking sounds under the hood I went to 3 different mechanics. They all said "rod knock". They weren't even VW mechanics. They were correct.

All search engines suck, but at least they aren't over-hyped like Google.


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## Buickboy92 (Sep 5, 2009)

I have a question regarding whether an 1989 Oldsmobile Eighty Eight has an electric AC actuator or is it vacuum operated?

Edit: Nevermind, answered my own question.


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## NotFast (Mar 20, 2002)

Thank you. I have poked around forums but didn't find anything conclusive. It's a strong burning oil smell when I park the car, but it's not smoking at all.

I'm wondering if I need a new mechanic because he noticed the oil was very low but was very evasive on the reason and the burning smell.



53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> Did you go to a MOPAR forum?
> 
> Does the oil level actually go down fast or is the only symptom the smell?
> 
> ...


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## Just Another Sweater (Aug 11, 2002)

NotFast said:


> Thank you. I have poked around forums but didn't find anything conclusive. It's a strong burning oil smell when I park the car, but it's not smoking at all.
> 
> I'm wondering if I need a new mechanic because he noticed the oil was very low but was very evasive on the reason and the burning smell.


If you can get under your car and check for visible oil leaks. Pay attention to the valve covers and front/rear main seals. If the transmission covered in oil, this would be a sign of leaking.


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## puma1552 (Jul 6, 2012)

why do round steering wheels always appear to wobble off axis when spun around lock to lock? Assuming, of course, that the steering wheel connects to the shaft right in the center of the wheel, which afaik is pretty much always the case.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Because the wheel is not mounted perpendicular to the shaft?


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## ragingduck (Dec 9, 2003)

puma1552 said:


> why do round steering wheels always appear to wobble off axis when spun around lock to lock? Assuming, of course, that the steering wheel connects to the shaft right in the center of the wheel, which afaik is pretty much always the case.


There is a whole bunch of geometry and math regarding camber, caster, toe, and all the components of the suspension and steering system that is way above my head. Just know that the effect you see is mostly purposefully designed to improve the handling characteristics of the car.

EDIT: ooops, I totally misread the post. You're talking about the steering wheel itself.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

NotFast said:


> Thank you. I have poked around forums but didn't find anything conclusive. It's a strong burning oil smell when I park the car, but it's not smoking at all.
> 
> I'm wondering if I need a new mechanic because he noticed the oil was very low but was very evasive on the reason and the burning smell.


Did you ask him specifically?

You may have to get behind it and have somebody rev it up to see if you can spot smoke on acceleration or deceleration and what color the smoke is. Smoke out the exhaust may not be apparent in the mirror. The CAT or CATs may catch most of it. 

There may also be no internal oil burning.


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## TheDarkEnergist (Aug 22, 2009)

puma1552 said:


> why do round steering wheels always appear to wobble off axis when spun around lock to lock? Assuming, of course, that the steering wheel connects to the shaft right in the center of the wheel, which afaik is pretty much always the case.


I think this might be a case of an optical illusion but it is interesting. I'd argue its because the design of the wheel itself (spokes, bulk in some areas and not in others) makes it seem like it's a little off when rotating. I made a picture:










Spinning quickly, the wheel on the left will look weird and wobbly because the negative space inside the circle isn't the same all the way around.

Just a thought.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

I've had many that aren't centered on the axis. My guess is that in many cases they want to provide little more room on the bottom for your legs/extra height on the "top" side when driving straight.

This is the sporty (haha) Yaris flat bottom one but you can see that it is offset


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## puma1552 (Jul 6, 2012)

Are factory, OEM taillights always clear plastic on the outside with red coloring/tinting applied on the inside, or are they made of actual tinted red plastic?

I think it's the former since people polish taillights all the time without getting red tint on the pad, but just curious.

Regardless, I'm pretty sure the red is never ever an outer coating on factory tail lights since that would just flake/wear off over time, yeah? I've always been under the assumption the red colorant is completely isolated from the outside world by being behind clear outermost plastic.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

puma1552 said:


> Are factory, OEM taillights always clear plastic on the outside with red coloring/tinting applied on the inside, or are they made of actual tinted red plastic?
> 
> I think it's the former since people polish taillights all the time without getting red tint on the pad, but just curious.
> 
> Regardless, I'm pretty sure the red is never ever an outer coating on factory tail lights since that would just flake/wear off over time, yeah? I've always been under the assumption the red colorant is completely isolated from the outside world by being behind clear outermost plastic.


Red plastic. Red all the way through. Never clear.

Some have clear outer lenses like "Altima" tail lights that were popular for some reason about 20 years ago. The tail light and brake light lenses inside are red plastic.

Some antique cars had glass lenses that were other colors. Duesenbergs had clear glass tail light lenses with S T O P in red letters. One 1932 car had amber glass stop light lenses. Those were all before the color was standardized to red.

Now, brake lights are always red. Tail lights are red. Rear turn signals can be red or amber in North America but are amber elsewhere.


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## puma1552 (Jul 6, 2012)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> Red plastic. Red all the way through. Never clear.


Wouldn't you end up with red on a buffing pad then after polishing?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

It's not opaque like paint, it won't be as obvious.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

puma1552 said:


> Wouldn't you end up with red on a buffing pad then after polishing?


Not really. You'd have to buff hard enough to shred the plastic. You might see some red if you had to buff out deep scratches but not just if you were polishing it. Haven't you ever seen a broken tail light? 

If you used a sanding disk you would see red plastic build-up. 

Some people have ground the ridges off of Scirocco 2 tail lights. Those have clear for the backup lights, amber for the turn signals and red for the brake and tail lights. You'd have an assortment of colors in the sanding disk. 

If manufacturers used some red coating, the coating would wear out or fade over time even if it was inside the lens. Having tail lights and especially brake lights that were no longer red would be a major safety hazard.

The approved materials are probably mentioned in the regulations. European regulations are ECE regulations. I can't remember the North American regulatory body offhand and don't have the links on this PC.


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## puma1552 (Jul 6, 2012)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> Not really. You'd have to buff hard enough to shred the plastic. You might see some red if you had to buff out deep scratches but not just if you were polishing it. Haven't you ever seen a broken tail light?
> 
> If you used a sanding disk you would see red plastic build-up.
> 
> ...


So what are these clear spots along the very bottom of this tail light, air bubbles in the pastic? They are smooth to the touch, so something inside.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

did about 1,000 km since i bought it from the previous owner. Checked my oil this week for the first time and noticed it was well above the max fill mark. Drained a little more than 1L from the crankcase and now I'm exactly on the max fill line, where it should be.

Did I do any damage?? I did do a few hard pulls and some spirited driving. No racing, mostly just spirited commutes. This motor is supposed to take about 4.0L of oil, and it probably had about 5.2L.

I know I should have checked but the guy seemed so miticulous, I had no reason to doubt he didn't know how to do an oil change...

In his defense, the dipstick is pretty hard to read since it's so thin and a little rounded.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

worth_fixing said:


> did about 1,000 km since i bought it from the previous owner. Checked my oil this week for the first time and noticed it was well above the max fill mark. Drained a little more than 1L from the crankcase and now I'm exactly on the max fill line, where it should be.
> 
> Did I do any damage?? I did do a few hard pulls and some spirited driving. No racing, mostly just spirited commutes. This motor is supposed to take about 4.0L of oil, and it probably had about 5.2L.
> 
> ...


Did you check the oil in a level area? My garage is slightly sloped. My driveway is very sloped.

I had to put my car on ramps to get it level to check the transmission fluid. 

The previous owner may not have a level surface and checked it at a gas station when it was hot. 

If it's overfilled, you could blow seals and leak from gaskets. The PCV system re-routs oil vapor back into the intake so you could be burning oil which could affect your plugs and increase the oil vapor in other emissions equipment.

I'd start by looking at the PCV filter. It probably needs cleaning or replacing. If the PCV dumps into the air cleaner, check the air filter also. 

There are probably a bunch of other problems too much oil could cause that I am forgetting. There may be Miata-specific worries. 

If the previous owner overfilled it the entire time they owned it, you will have to check each Miata potential problem area.


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## S1ack (Aug 18, 2005)

I downloaded a theme pack of light trail desktop images....
This morning I found myself wondering...


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

S1ack said:


> I downloaded a theme pack of light trail desktop images....
> This morning I found myself wondering...
> 
> 
> View attachment 114164


I assume nothing. Most of the time I’ve seen transverse lines like that without any other signage or specific markings (e.g., UK yield markings) they’re for analyzing how fast cars are driving. Speed = distance/time and all that. Plus they only seem to be on half the switchbacks here and not a common thing which makes a lot more sense for a study than a standard. Just a hunch though.


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## Jettaboy1884 (Jan 20, 2004)

I made an observation the other day and realized I should ask here:

Why do more modern BMW's sound raspy and (IMO) terrible with aftermarket exhausts? It seems to me the last BMW engine that sounds good when uncorked was the E36 (S52?)


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

Jettaboy1884 said:


> I made an observation the other day and realized I should ask here:
> 
> Why do more modern BMW's sound raspy and (IMO) terrible with aftermarket exhausts? It seems to me the last BMW engine that sounds good when uncorked was the E36 (S52?)


I never really thought about that, but you're right, that's pretty much when straight piped BMWs stopped "screaming." For a proper answer you'd probably need to talk to the engineers responsible, but I doubt it's a coincidence that your time period is _also_ approx. when they switched from throttle bodies to valvetronic. Just like carbs usually sound better than fuel injection--at the end of the day noise is wasted combustion energy and valvetronic let's less wasted intake charge through.


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## EnIgMa '06 (May 13, 2004)

Jettaboy1884 said:


> I made an observation the other day and realized I should ask here:
> 
> Why do more modern BMW's sound raspy and (IMO) terrible with aftermarket exhausts? It seems to me the last BMW engine that sounds good when uncorked was the E36 (S52?)


For F80s at least it's because the two pipes in the midpipe are different lengths. Active Autowerke makes an equal length midpipe that cleans up the sound significantly.
Active Autowerke Equal Length Mid Pipe Exhaust Clips - BMW F80 M3 (Stock Downpipes, Tune, & Muffler) - YouTube 

My E36 M3 was pretty modified and sounded raspy in a good way. I think you're just hearing a lot of very free-flowing exhausts which makes straight sixes sound pretty raspy.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

I know it's a general question which should be more specific to each car but

Do all engines have a drain plug for engine coolant? I'm not talking about the one at the base of the radiator; one at the base of the block or in a similar location that would allow for coolant to be drained from inside the block.

I always watch youtube tutorial videos before I attempt it myself and I'm noticing that most people just drain the radiator and fill it with fresh coolant, but there's still coolant in the block, heater core, not to mention all the hoses. I doubt the drain plug at the base of the radiator drains everything.

Some people take a garden hose and purge all of the coolant out, but then you'd theoretically be left with a volume of water in the non-drainable areas, which you could then re-concentrate with 100% coolant, therefor attaining your mix. (I'd rather used distilled water on mine, but whatever)

I watched a few videos, and fell on an Engineering Explained video where Jason has an Integra with an engine block drain plug. sh*t. That's...exactly what's needed. lol But do all cars have one? Didn't find it on mine.

Just curious what you guys do since most people seem to just drain the radiator.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

worth_fixing said:


> I know it's a general question which should be more specific to each car but
> 
> Do all engines have a drain plug for engine coolant? I'm not talking about the one at the base of the radiator; one at the base of the block or in a similar location that would allow for coolant to be drained from inside the block.
> 
> ...


I have never heard of one. On any car. Most don't even have a drain for the radiator. You pull the lower radiator hose.

It's great if an Integra has one but that's a first for me. Do you have a link to the video?

Prestone had (probably still does) a T-Fitting you put in the heater hose. You hook a garden hose up to it and run the engine and the heater and flush all of the old coolant out with hose water. I think you also drain the radiator but I never used the Prestone kit myself. Most of my cars have been European and I don't think the Prestone kit fits metric heater hoses. 

Anyhow, that kit flushes out all of the old coolant. Then you fill the coolant tank with 50/50 coolant/water mix. You should use distilled water.

On MK1 VWs you can pull the thermostat which is at the lowest point on the coolant system and can get most of the coolant out that way, especially if you have the rear of the car higher.

You can buy pre-mixed coolant and skip the mixing if you don't mind using American coolant. I use G-13 myself. The VW dealer gave me an empty jug so I could mix it.

Speaking of the dealer, they have vacuum purge and fill kits that flush the old coolant out and replace it with new G-13 (or whatever is the newest VW coolant).

I changed coolant on a freshly installed 4 cylinder VW engine around 1983 and it took several days to burp the air out. That was before I learned about the trick of drilling a hole in the thermostat. I did have the heater valve open but it still took several days of water hammering and me worried it was going to overheat.


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## Nealric (Feb 16, 2013)

I have a draincock on the radiator on my Alfa, but it is an aftermarket aluminum radiator. Factory setups require just pulling the lower hose. Never heard of a block drain. Normally the lower hose would be at the low point in the system.


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## Stangy (Mar 16, 2007)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> I have never heard of one. On any car. Most don't even have a drain for the radiator. You pull the lower radiator hose.
> 
> It's great if an Integra has one but that's a first for me. Do you have a link to the video?
> 
> ...


I have a drain on my OEM radiator on my NA Miata. I think my Scirocco also had one.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> I have never heard of one. On any car. Most don't even have a drain for the radiator. You pull the lower radiator hose.
> 
> It's great if an Integra has one but that's a first for me. Do you have a link to the video?





Nealric said:


> Never heard of a block drain.







go to 1:00. would be a great feature is they all had one.


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## Jettaboy1884 (Jan 20, 2004)

My Audi V6 has a coolant drain plug in the block. It's jammed up in the back in a virtually invisible location and almost seems too high up but nope...


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

I had thought abotu that way back when I was learning to work on cars, I just flush with a hose and then blow out the hoses with air (usually from my lungs as I work out of a driveway, lol).


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

VDub2625 said:


> I had thought abotu that way back when I was learning to work on cars, I just flush with a hose and then blow out the hoses with air (usually from my lungs as I work out of a driveway, lol).


i can't imagine you get most of it out though. Maybe with compressed air. What's the max pressure in a typical cooling system?


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## Nealric (Feb 16, 2013)

worth_fixing said:


> i can't imagine you get most of it out though. Maybe with compressed air. What's the max pressure in a typical cooling system?


Somewhere around 15psi before it gets pushed into the overflow bottle.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

I was looking at the service manual for my truck and noticed something I didn't remember seeing before. The head has a little "camshaft oil delivery pipe" that dribbles oil on the various components in the head. I couldn't find a shot of the current version of the engine with VVT on both cams but here are some pictures of the pre-2016 version. 

Is this a quaint relic of years gone by or just uncommon enough that I haven't ever noticed it?


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## 2wheelgnr (Mar 23, 2021)

Cousin Eddie said:


> Why do the fog lights turn off when you put the high beams on?
> 
> I know there are ways to make them stay on or even leave the low beams on but I've always wondered the reasoning behind this from the manufacturers.


I think it has to do with Light in a sense to oncoming drivers...may be wrong on that but I know if you wire it up so fogs stay on with High beams they call that the "Bambi Feature"


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

Can someone post a photo of the high beam indicator in a 2005 and newer generation Honda Civics.
Based on the number of them driving around with their high beams on permanently, I'm assuming it's really small, not in the standard location, or the drivers are just all *******s.


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## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

Surf Green said:


> Can someone post a photo of the high beam indicator in a 2005 and newer generation Honda Civics.
> Based on the number of them driving around with their high beams on permanently, I'm assuming it's really small, not in the standard location, or the drivers are just all *******s.


Some manufactures put the indicator toward the top of the binnacle which is stupid because it increases the chances of being blocked by view of the steering wheel. My car has it lower in the binnacle and it isn't obscured. Of course, some people think it's the lights-on indicator, but of course that's assuming they're thinking at all.


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

Surf Green said:


> Can someone post a photo of the high beam indicator in a 2005 and newer generation Honda Civics.
> Based on the number of them driving around with their high beams on permanently, I'm assuming it's really small, not in the standard location, or the drivers are just all *******s.


8th/9th Gen Civics are without question the worst offenders. Gotta be design error.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Cousin Eddie said:


> Why do the fog lights turn off when you put the high beams on?
> 
> I know there are ways to make them stay on or even leave the low beams on but I've always wondered the reasoning behind this from the manufacturers.


Because your eyes will focus on the bright lights right in front of your car. If you have high beams on, you want to look down the road - 500 feet is the standard for most locations. Seeing really good 10 feet in front of your car doesn't do any good if you actually need the high beams. They cut through fog and also help other cars see you in heavy fog. Germany or California fog. 

Fog lights are probably harmless in a slow speed zone like a neighborhood or a school zone. Places where you are almost riding your brakes, You wouldn't use your high beams in a neighborhood though.

Fog lights come on with the low beams.

Daniel Stern explains fog lights more eloquently than me:
www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/lights/fog_lamps/fog_lamps.html

If you want extra lights to come on with high beams, get driving lights.


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## 2wheelgnr (Mar 23, 2021)

I replaced my daughter engine oil cap but may have gotten the wrong part cuz now when I screw it on it says "710 " vs OIL.... did I get the wrong part...it is a Hyndau after all.

also my new 2020 passat R line does not have a low Blinker fluid light...How will I know when I have to add more or do I keep checking it every so often..or will blinkers get weak when low????


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## ragingduck (Dec 9, 2003)

2wheelgnr said:


> I replaced my daughter engine oil cap but may have gotten the wrong part cuz now when I screw it on it says "710 " vs OIL.... did I get the wrong part...it is a Hyndau after all.


You got the parts designated for Australia. Best switch it out before the cam starts to turn the wrong direction.



2wheelgnr said:


> also my new 2020 passat R line does not have a low Blinker fluid light...How will I know when I have to add more or do I keep checking it every so often..or will blinkers get weak when low????


You wouldn't have this problem if you had just gotten a BMW, which don't need blinker fluid because they don't have blinkers.


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## 2wheelgnr (Mar 23, 2021)

ragingduck said:


> You got the parts designated for Australia. Best switch it out before the cam starts to turn the wrong direction.
> 
> 
> 
> You wouldn't have this problem if you had just gotten a BMW, which don't need blinker fluid because they don't have blinkers.


I just thought of the blinker fluid problem...I wont USE my Blinkers like every else so I conserve the fluid..

OK so I got Aussy stuff...better swith out quick before like you say goes backwards and we have to drive the car in reverse everywhere!!!!!!


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## Strange Mud (Oct 20, 2017)

just remember newer cars with LED blinkers require synthetic blinker fluid


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## 2wheelgnr (Mar 23, 2021)

Strange Mud said:


> just remember newer cars with LED blinkers require synthetic blinker fluid


damn,.....its all so complicated!!!!!


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Relating to overpriced fluids...

I can't get this to embed but it's hilarious (link works even if you don't log in)









Betches Media on Instagram: "How to give your dad a heart attack 101 🌟: @jennamjuliano (& her concerned father)"


Betches Media shared a post on Instagram: "How to give your dad a heart attack 101 🌟: @jennamjuliano (& her concerned father)". Follow their account to see 11322 posts.




www.instagram.com


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

are all coolants created equal? Looking @ FL22-compliant coolants. (daily driver)


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

worth_fixing said:


> are all coolants created equal? Looking @ FL22-compliant coolants. (daily driver)


Not really, just like oil there's chemistry going on, and it can affect boiling point, freezing point, and thermal conductivity. That said, as long as you use something that meets spec in the correct mixture it's extremely unlikely you notice the difference.

Side note, 'coolant' ironically reduces the performance of cooling. Race cars, for example, typically use only water as it has better thermal conductivity. We use coolant in street cars because we need to curb freezing.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

ghost03 said:


> Not really, just like oil there's chemistry going on, and it can affect boiling point, freezing point, and thermal conductivity. That said, as long as you use something that meets spec in the correct mixture it's extremely unlikely you notice the difference.
> 
> Side note, 'coolant' ironically reduces the performance of cooling. Race cars, for example, typically use only water as it has better thermal conductivity. We use coolant in street cars because we need to curb freezing.


Racecars are often required to use water (+water wetter) to make cleanup on the track quicker as well. Regular coolant is real slippery.


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

Bad Rabbit Habit said:


> Racecars are often required to use water (+water wetter) to make cleanup on the track quicker as well. Regular coolant is real slippery.


Definitely, nothing will get you meatball'd quicker at a track day than leaking coolant in a street car.


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## ragingduck (Dec 9, 2003)

ghost03 said:


> Not really, just like oil there's chemistry going on, and it can affect boiling point, freezing point, and thermal conductivity. That said, as long as you use something that meets spec in the correct mixture it's extremely unlikely you notice the difference.
> 
> Side note, 'coolant' ironically reduces the performance of cooling. Race cars, for example, typically use only water as it has better thermal conductivity. We use coolant in street cars because we need to curb freezing.


Back in the day we simply called it "anti-freeze". If you were out of anti-freeze, you simply use water until you get some anti-freeze. It was only to prevent freezing. Now supposedly coolant has a higher boiling temp so it won't evaporate like water. Does that mean that water is still the best for conducting heat, but will have to be checked and topped off more frequently than coolant, which is used at the expense of lower heat conductivity? Makes sense then for race cars to use water. Then there are arguments that water causes corrosion and coolants/anti-freeze have anti-corrosive properties.


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## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

Wouldn't something be added then to the racecars to raise the boiling point?


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

ragingduck said:


> Back in the day we simply called it "anti-freeze". If you were out of anti-freeze, you simply use water until you get some anti-freeze. It was only to prevent freezing. Now supposedly coolant has a higher boiling temp so it won't evaporate like water. Does that mean that water is still the best for conducting heat, but will have to be checked and topped off more frequently than coolant, which is used at the expense of lower heat conductivity? Makes sense then for race cars to use water. Then there are arguments that water causes corrosion and coolants/anti-freeze have anti-corrosive properties.


Correct the additives are lowering thermal conductivity.

But its not the only parameter; as you mention boiling point can be an issue depending on the engine operating temp, wetting as above can increase contact to better use the conductivity, and yes, unless the water is distilled and clean, corrosion can happen as there is electrical conductivity through the water connecting a mixed metal environment, which can transport charge carriers, not unlike a science fair lemon battery.


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## dan of montana (Mar 30, 2015)

DonPatrizio said:


> Wouldn't something be added then to the racecars to raise the boiling point?


IIRC the pressure of the cooling system is what raises the boiling point the most.


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## Stevo12 (Jul 28, 2015)

What's the consensus on parts store/aftermarket gas caps vs. OEM?

My recently-purchased Mk4 has a gross evap leak, so I'm gonna start with the gas cap before bringing it in for a smoke test on the evap system. OE cap is ~$40 shipped and it might take a week to get it (shipping delays, even though FCP is right here in CT), but I can get one from NAPA next day for about ~$10. Money is less the issue than it is time, but also I want it to work. The cap on there right now is not likely the OE cap, as it doesn't look like the VW caps I've had in the past.


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

Stevo12 said:


> What's the consensus on parts store/aftermarket gas caps vs. OEM?
> 
> My recently-purchased Mk4 has a gross evap leak, so I'm gonna start with the gas cap before bringing it in for a smoke test on the evap system. OE cap is ~$40 shipped and it might take a week to get it (shipping delays, even though FCP is right here in CT), but I can get one from NAPA next day for about ~$10. Money is less the issue than it is time, but also I want it to work. The cap on there right now is not likely the OE cap, as it doesn't look like the VW caps I've had in the past.


Not automatically a problem. But it is one of these:










That said, unless the cap is in visibly poor shape, personally I would just go for the smoke test. Those leaks have always been slow ones for me.


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## MGQ (Apr 16, 2002)

Any pick and pull junkyards near you? I can’t imagine they’d want much for a used fuel cap, just to try it


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## Stevo12 (Jul 28, 2015)

ghost03 said:


> Not automatically a problem. But it is one of these:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That's what I am worried about, damn. I'm already bringing it to my mechanic next week to replace the flex pipe (don't want to do it myself) and my thought was to replace the cap to either rule it out as the cause of the leak, or if I'm lucky and that fixes it I won't have to bother him with running the smoke test.



MGQ said:


> Any pick and pull junkyards near you? I can’t imagine they’d want much for a used fuel cap, just to try it


There's one up in Worcester that I go to, and they have a ton of VWs, but I think they pull the fuel caps/tanks etc because they're pretty good about taking the basics off (wheels, engines if they're runners, etc.) before throwing them out on the lot. Not a bad suggestion to take a stroll up there, maybe I can weasel it in on Saturday morning.


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

Stevo12 said:


> That's what I am worried about, damn. I'm already bringing it to my mechanic next week to replace the flex pipe (don't want to do it myself) and my thought was to replace the cap to either rule it out as the cause of the leak, or if I'm lucky and that fixes it I won't have to bother him with running the smoke test.


Well I do not think an aftermarket replacement would rule out the cap as the issue, but TBH I think the odds of a bad cap are smaller than the odds the cap fixes it. Cap is pretty much lowest common denominator on that stuff, even if it's usually a smaller leak it's possible P/O ignored it until it got worse.

So long as you're not ruling anything out with the new cap, if you want to try and avoid a smoke test I think it's worth a shot. I was just wouldn't do it if you're going to smoke it out regardless.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Why not just order one from your dealer? How much more is it vs. FCP, and VW's orders are next day...

I would not try a used one, because the seal is likely dry and cracked. Aftermarket ones don't always fit right. For the price, OEM is usually the best option. I work at a Hyundai dealer and I've sold plenty of gas caps to people who have told me, "I tried the aftermarket one and it didn't work", and they never come back.


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## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

Delete


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## jonpwn (Aug 13, 2010)

Has anyone tried g13 coolant in a non-VW car? 

Have a lot of leftover g13 and am wondering if it will work with no I'll effects in my Miata. Manual calls for ethylene glycol based coolant whereas g13 is made with glycerin..

Sent from my IN2025 using Tapatalk


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## Stevo12 (Jul 28, 2015)

VDub2625 said:


> Why not just order one from your dealer? How much more is it vs. FCP, and VW's orders are next day...


That's exactly what I did. Part was $62 vs. $56 @ FCP, but like you said I'm picking it up tomorrow.


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## Seabird (Feb 8, 2002)

My son got home late last night and complained that his car is really hard to steer at slow speeds. I am assuming it’s a bad steering pump but I haven’t checked the fluid yet. Assuming that’s the problem, should I have the water pump replaced also as a simple PM given its age and mileage? 2007 Civic LX, w 120K on the clock.


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## Nealric (Feb 16, 2013)

jonpwn said:


> Has anyone tried g13 coolant in a non-VW car?
> 
> Have a lot of leftover g13 and am wondering if it will work with no I'll effects in my Miata. Manual calls for ethylene glycol based coolant whereas g13 is made with glycerin..
> 
> Sent from my IN2025 using Tapatalk


The main issue is you would need to make sure the old coolant is fully flushed first. G13 can't mix with regular ethalyne glycol coolant. But I can't see it causing problems if you do fully flush.


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## 4.OMG (Dec 20, 2004)

Seabird said:


> My son got home late last night and complained that his car is really hard to steer at slow speeds. I am assuming it’s a bad steering pump but I haven’t checked the fluid yet. Assuming that’s the problem, should I have the water pump replaced also as a simple PM given its age and mileage? 2007 Civic LX, w 120K on the clock.


Loading up the parts cannon is almost never the answer. Is the pump noisy? I've heard of "soft" failures in PS pumps but they usually get noisy when they're that worn, in my experience. 

I would check the fluid level and if it's low and/or really dirty, flush it and then bleed. I would also check the inner tie rod boots to see if there's any signs the rack is leaking. You might also check out the serpentine belt and tensioner because a loose belt can result in under-assisted steering.


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## Seabird (Feb 8, 2002)

Thank you, that's good advice. I do need to check the fluid, first. It's due for an oil change and inspection and I was planning to have that done this weekend. I'll ask the tech to look at the belt and the rack when he's under the car.


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## Seabird (Feb 8, 2002)

So, it turns out it was the fluid. Had the mechanic flush and replace and the steering is now working fine. So, thanks again for that.

Next question... I think its coming due for new shocks and struts soon. All of the quotes I'm getting (for the front alone) are for more than what I paid for the car. They range from $750-1000+. Again, on an 07 Civic LX sedan w about 118K on the clock. One mechanic said the labor is about 20 hours because the front end needs to be disassembled. Does this sound typical and expected?


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## ValveCoverGasket (Mar 20, 2002)

Seabird said:


> One mechanic said the labor is about 20 hours because the front end needs to be disassembled.


 
sounds like they really really dont want your business

it cant get any more straightforward. classic mcpherson front


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## 4.OMG (Dec 20, 2004)

Seabird said:


> So, it turns out it was the fluid. Had the mechanic flush and replace and the steering is now working fine. So, thanks again for that.
> 
> Next question... I think its coming due for new shocks and struts soon. All of the quotes I'm getting (for the front alone) are for more than what I paid for the car. They range from $750-1000+. Again, on an 07 Civic LX sedan w about 118K on the clock. One mechanic said the labor is about 20 hours because the front end needs to be disassembled. Does this sound typical and expected?


In a word, no. Check out the video ValveCoverGasket posted.

Edit: To be clear, 20 hours sounds excessive but without seeing a detailed quote with the parts cost, labor hours and rate, it's hard to say whether those out the door prices are excessive.


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## ValveCoverGasket (Mar 20, 2002)

just shocks, id figure 1.5hr per side? as a WAG...
i have no idea what the book rate is but if you were drinking beer and taking your time thatd be about how slow a decent mechanic oughta be able muddle through it.


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## 4.OMG (Dec 20, 2004)

ValveCoverGasket said:


> just shocks, id figure 1.5hr per side? as a WAG...
> i have no idea what the book rate is but if you were drinking beer and taking your time thatd be about how slow a decent mechanic oughta be able muddle through it.


That's probably about right for a DIYer working with hand tools, flat rate may be a little less (but that's just my WAG). At $150/hour (another arbitrary WAG), that's ~$450 in labor. A few hundred for the parts/sales tax/shop fees/any state mandated fees gets us to the $750 quote. A higher labor rate or higher parts cost could push the job close to the $1000 quote.


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## Seabird (Feb 8, 2002)

I just watched another video of a guy doing his own replacement. Granted, he's probably done it a million times, but it looked deceptively simple. Not counting wheel lugs, there are only 6 bolts (per side). Three up top, two below, and one for the brake line. It's really tempting to buy preassembled units and doing it myself. Hrmmm...


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## Chdmlr (Oct 1, 2020)

Seabird said:


> I just watched another video of a guy doing his own replacement. Granted, he's probably done it a million times, but it looked deceptively simple. Not counting wheel lugs, there are only 6 bolts (per side). Three up top, two below, and one for the brake line. It's really tempting to buy preassembled units and doing it myself. Hrmmm...


I'm not sure the particulars of that era Civic, but I was trading out suspension on 4th and 5th gen Civics in my Mom's garage at 16 (pre Youtube tutorials). Only difficult part was if the bolt running through the bottom of the rear struts was seized. Depending on the climate you live in, that may be an issue, but still not hard to deal with if you're remotely mechanically inclined.


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## Seabird (Feb 8, 2002)

I have watched 4 different videos and everyone has their own take on doing this, but it’s all essentially the same. None of the cars are pristine and don’t look like they’ve gone through a lot of prep work.

I‘m in Texas so rust isn’t really an issue, but we do have a lot of rain. Not sure what I’ll see under there. Hopefully a can of rust ease and a breaker bar will be sufficient. Honda recommends replacing the bolts, so I’ll get all new ones anyway.

Can anyone recommend a good brand for preassembled replacements? OEM is pricey and they don’t appear to come already put together. Amazon has about 15 billion brands that I can’t tell heads or tails from other than Monroe. Are they still decent? Is that A1 brand from the video above good?


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## Jettaboy1884 (Jan 20, 2004)

I replaced the rear struts on my In-Law's 2011 Honda Element recently. I have spring compressors, but really didn't feel like dealing with the hassle. I always seem to have bad luck with getting the dust boots and bump stops to fit right too, so I went with the Monroe brand pre-assembled ones from Rock Auto at $103 per side. I did have to remove one control arm bolt so I could drop the assembly past the fuel pump, but otherwise the install was trouble-free.

I also did brakes all-around with a Centric rotor & pad kit. Those parts were about $165.

The job took about five hours but saved my in-Laws roughly $500 in labor.


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## Seabird (Feb 8, 2002)

Nice! I forgot about Rock Auto after I cut the cord and stopped seeing their commercials during the Sat morning build shows. 😁


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## Jettaboy1884 (Jan 20, 2004)

I like Rock Auto and use them primarily for online purchases where "normal" parts will suffice for a repair / maintenance job. They typically have a LOT of brands in stock, from questionable dirt-cheap stuff to OEM brands and even occasional upgrade parts. The one catch is they often ship from multiple warehouses and those costs can add up fast if you aren't selective.

I've also really come to like my local NAPA. They're great for shopping "off the shelf" where checking fitment in-hand is helpful, or you need to get some hose or wire by the foot. They've also been surprisingly competitive on most pricing, especially once you add on shipping costs.


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## Stevo12 (Jul 28, 2015)

Seabird said:


> I have watched 4 different videos and everyone has their own take on doing this, but it’s all essentially the same. None of the cars are pristine and don’t look like they’ve gone through a lot of prep work.
> 
> I‘m in Texas so rust isn’t really an issue, but we do have a lot of rain. Not sure what I’ll see under there. Hopefully a can of rust ease and a breaker bar will be sufficient. Honda recommends replacing the bolts, so I’ll get all new ones anyway.
> 
> Can anyone recommend a good brand for preassembled replacements? OEM is pricey and they don’t appear to come already put together. Amazon has about 15 billion brands that I can’t tell heads or tails from other than Monroe. Are they still decent? Is that A1 brand from the video above good?


I went through this exercise a few years ago with a buddy's '06 Civic coupe. He'd been quoted like $1200 in 2014-2015 to do the struts. I told him I'd DIY and he bought the parts - I think they were KYB pre-assembled units from RockAuto. Seemed to do the job at the time. I think we did the replacement around 145-150k miles, and he got rid of it a couple years later when his son was born, at around 175k. IIRC the cost of the pre-assembled units was $350 plus shipping, and it took us maybe 3-4 hours in my driveway.

Northeastern car as well, but rust wasn't a problem.


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## Jettaboy1884 (Jan 20, 2004)

Agreed. There's a lot to be saved buying the parts and doing the routine maintenance items yourself. If possible, it also really helps to soak things in PB Blaster a couple days beforehand, and take note of what types and size tools you'll expect to use for the job.



Stevo12 said:


> Northeastern car as well, but rust wasn't a problem.


Lucky! We live in NJ and here's what the Element's front kunckles looked like:


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## Seabird (Feb 8, 2002)

Rock has Monroe Quick-Struts (their fully assembled unit) for about $117 each side. It shows replacement bolts for the upper but not the lower, so I'll just source those from Honda. I have heard good things about KYB but Rock only has the right side units in stock. The Monroes are close in price and seem to be Rock's most popular choice.

One of the videos I watched listed all of the parts and tools I'd need. I like to cook and learned early on to get my prep done ahead of time, which is how I'll approach this project.


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## 4.OMG (Dec 20, 2004)

For a 14 year old daily driver, Monroe is fine. I'm not sure KYB would be better or worse, so I would just go with what's available.

If you're in Texas, I wouldn't worry about rust (or prespraying anything with penetrating oil) unless the car spent its life somewhere that uses salt on the roads.


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## Seabird (Feb 8, 2002)

I suspect you're right but I'll keep a can on hand as cheap insurance. Better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it. 

I get MLK Day off next weekend so I think I'll start this next Sat assuming my parts come in on time.


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## Seabird (Feb 8, 2002)

The front end is done! Took me about four hours, going slowly and carefully, and with a break for lunch in-between. My neighbor loaned me his impact wrench which made a couple of the trickier bolts easier to deal with.

Tomorrow morning I’ll take it in for an alignment. If they get done reasonably early, I’ll tackle the rears shocks in the afternoon. Those look a lot easier.

Thanks again for everyone’s advice! 🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺 all around on me.


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## mouseOfMars (Jul 30, 2002)

General Wheel vs Brake question - is there a minimum amount of clearance you should have between the rim and the brake caliper (other than it' doesn't scrape as I'd think you'd want some breathing room to not have junk get lodged in there)?


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

mouseOfMars said:


> General Wheel vs Brake question - is there a minimum amount of clearance you should have between the rim and the brake caliper (other than it' doesn't scrape as I'd think you'd want some breathing room to not have junk get lodged in there)?
> 
> View attachment 149829


That's way more clearance than a lot of OE performance setups.


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## Stradguy93 (Mar 16, 2019)

Will this fit my Honda?


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Yes the trunk space is extremely generous.


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## Jettaboy1884 (Jan 20, 2004)

So I can imagine all of the reasons this isn't realistic, but I've wondered if there's a market for a variety of smaller and inherently lower power performance engines? AKA the mantra of "driving a slow car fast" but without necessarily being restricted to tiny four cylinders or wheezy non-performance engines that need to be beaten but are miserable... I mean along the lines of what Mazda had with the 1.8L V6 where it was designed to be revved and sounded good doing it.

As much as I love the sound of a V8 or a smooth V12, I personally feel that more than ~ 300hp just gets less and less useable on a regular basis. Is it weird to think that a really small displacement (like 3.0L or less) V8 at about 250hp with a short ratio trans would be a lot more fun to rip around in regularly than a 500hp which has a lot less WOT opportunities?


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

Jettaboy1884 said:


> So I can imagine all of the reasons this isn't realistic, but I've wondered if there's a market for a variety of smaller and inherently lower power performance engines? AKA the mantra of "driving a slow car fast" but without necessarily being restricted to tiny four cylinders or wheezy non-performance engines that need to be beaten but are miserable... I mean along the lines of what Mazda had with the 1.8L V6 where it was designed to be revved and sounded good doing it.
> 
> As much as I love the sound of a V8 or a smooth V12, I personally feel that more than ~ 300hp just gets less and less useable on a regular basis. Is it weird to think that a really small displacement (like 3.0L or less) V8 at about 250hp with a short ratio trans would be a lot more fun to rip around in regularly than a 500hp which has a lot less WOT opportunities?


It'd be a cool concept but it's sort of anti-consumer to go upmarket without "more." People want to pay less and get more you know?

That said, those that do pull it off in small markets really pull it off. Porsche could pretty easily make a 700hp GT3 and instead they make a 500hp 8k RPM screamer and can't produce enough of them at ridiculous prices. And then obviously Miata, which against odds is the most raced sports car in the world. I think what you're asking for is to average two; a lot of people hoped the Supra was going to do that (and personally I think it actually did do a great job of that), but at the end of the day people wanted to spend their $50k elsewhere.


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## robr2 (May 5, 2005)

Jettaboy1884 said:


> Agreed. There's a lot to be saved buying the parts and doing the routine maintenance items yourself. If possible, it also really helps to soak things in PB Blaster a couple days beforehand, and take note of what types and size tools you'll expect to use for the job.
> 
> 
> 
> Lucky! We live in NJ and here's what the Element's front kunckles looked like:


Late to this party but my son has our old Explorer from Boston with him in San Francisco. He took it to a mechanic for a wheel bearing noise which the mechanic confirmed. My son dropped it off and the mechanic was pissed at how long it took him to take the old bearing out.


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## Seabird (Feb 8, 2002)

New day, same old POS Civic. 

I noticed a new sound when he starts the car. It does a "ZZZRRRRPPPP!" noise for a second until the motor turns over. I suspected a bad starter and some interweb sleuthing seems to confirm that. Anyone disagree? Replacing it is going to a bitch. It's tucked way back behind the engine. 😒


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## Egz (May 30, 2002)

Okay, what is this plastic clip inside this style of connector called? The ones that you push in to release? I just can't think of its name










Do you think they sell these at auto parts stores?


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## bnkrpt311 (Apr 22, 2010)

Ford and GM are allowing custom orders to be had without auto start/stop on fullsize trucks and SUVs. Why haven't other brands started doing this?


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

Egz said:


> Okay, what is this plastic clip inside this style of connector called? The ones that you push in to release? I just can't think of its name
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Generically I would call that a quick connect, but there's definitely different versions of that type of hose fitting with trade names or brands. I doubt you'd find anything that matches at the autoparts store unless it's off a very common vehicle. What are you trying to connect? Sometimes it's easier just to bypass something with generic fittings and clamps; main reason they use stuff like that is because hose clamps are a time suck if you're making 50,000 connections. NBD if you're making 5.


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## Ronin_Jello (11 mo ago)

Is it true if you try to race in a Subaru you could end up blowing a tranny on the side of the road?


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

ghost03 said:


> Generically I would call that a quick connect, but there's definitely different versions of that type of hose fitting with trade names or brands.


Yep. Typically, they're called QD's. Quick Disconnects. GIS suggests it's a Barb QD, but the size, etc, makes it difficult without knowing exactly what.


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## kidshorty (Jun 21, 2002)

dumb question: is there damage that is too small for insurance to cover or give a crap about? The newish car (2020 Tiguan purchased in May of that year) got a nice dent, and I don't think PDR will cut it. We noticed it yesterday. Not sure where it happened because we don't drive the car much (7k on it) and we park in the middle of nowhere, but I am sick about it and want it fixed.

I figure it is about $1k to fix, but I have a vanishing deductible that is now at zero, accident forgiveness (though this would be under the comprehensive I think), and zero claims in 10+ years with 4 cars on the policy. I don't see a downside to calling insurance unless they will tell me to screw off since it isn't that bad...?


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

PDR will definitely take care of that. It won't be perfect but no one who doesn't know to look would ever spot it.


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## FigureFive (Dec 21, 2003)

In manual transmission cars I will occasionally get a back and forth jerking motion. The easiest way to make it happen is to let the car creep forward in gear on just the idle revs. Then, get on to the throttle just a little to pick up speed. If done in just the right way the car will start bucking, sometimes pretty strongly. Backing off throttle too quickly usually makes it worse. Adding some throttle usually smooths it out. It's happened with pretty much every manual car I've owned. What's going on there? I know how to keep it from happening. Just wondering what causes it mechanically.


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## Jettaboy1884 (Jan 20, 2004)

So in my experience I have found that it's a weird harmony of the relatively soft stock driveline mounts loading up with torque, then letting go, and loading up again. CV Axles likely play a part here as well. Accelerating harder probably results in the mounts all getting loaded up and holding there, while letting off the gas hard gets them into a rocking motion...

I found this was a pretty repeatable (and irritating) issue in my 2017 Honda Fit, and that was new off the lot. I would leave my neighborhood onto a 45-50mph road that had a blind corner a couple hundred feet away. When turning left and accelerating briskly (about 50-70%) the driveline would load up and buck terribly like you describe. Punching it harder with the sharp steering input would spin the inside tire which is annoying with an open differential. There was often a cop sitting nearby, so launching hard out of the neighborhood or spinning the inside tire really wasn't an option. Having a 50mph car coming up on you while shifting 1-2 really isn't pleasant either.

I was able to make the issue significantly better by installing a "street" density aftermarket dogbone mount. It controlled the engine rocking a lot more, with minimal vibration issues.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

I'm assuming the question is in regards to how this phenomenon doesn't apply so much to mushymatic transmissions.

There's a couple reasons that come to mind. *Some may be outdated.*
This is typically a low gear thing where the wheels are trying to wag the engine. Automatics are typically geared higher, so the effect is less.
There is gear lash in manual transmissions that doesn't seem to exist in most other transmissions. Autos use planetary gears and CVTs use a metal belt with less coupling parts inside.
Manual cars use flywheels, autos use flexplates and torque converters that aren't directly coupled to the wheels at low speeds, and smooth out the rocking.

You can get an auto to do this, but it requires some effort.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Dumb question about tow capacity: The 2019 Subaru Outback is rated for 2700 lb for the base engine (2.5L) and 3500 lb for the top engine (3.6L). I can't imagine there being any significant differences between trim lines other than the motor that would affect the tow capacity (structural rigidity, suspension, brakes) so what would happen if one tried to go up to 3500 lb with a base engine car? Is it just bad for the motor?


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

The 3.6 also has a heavier-duty transmission



Wiki said:


> *TR580*
> Maximum torque 250Nm
> 
> 2013-2020 Legacy/Outback 2.5L NA
> ...


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

thegave said:


> Dumb question about tow capacity: The 2019 Subaru Outback is rated for 2700 lb for the base engine (2.5L) and 3500 lb for the top engine (3.6L). I can't imagine there being any significant differences between trim lines other than the motor that would affect the tow capacity (structural rigidity, suspension, brakes) so what would happen if one tried to go up to 3500 lb with a base engine car? Is it just bad for the motor?


As above, transmission, but also differential, weight balance, etc., are likely different. The more tongue weight you have the lighter the front end gets, a heavier motor and more forward weight distribution actually helps. That's one of the reasons trucks tow so well, as with very little relative weight in the back their weight distribution is quite forward.

It's pretty much always best to stick with the manufacturers tow rating.


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## Jettaboy1884 (Jan 20, 2004)

I'm not really knowledgeable about towing (but have hauled a few cars). My understanding is that it's more about the transmission than the engine. An auto trans takes a heck of a beating when towing and the fluid gets hot. When you get a Tow Package option on something like a family SUV, it adds (or upgrades) a transmission fluid cooler and specs a higher output alternator in addition to the hitch and wiring. The owner's manual will also call for changing the trans fluid at shorter intervals if towing regularly.

I towed home a B5 Audi recently using our family Toyota Highlander and a car transport trailer (not the front wheel dolly). Engine power was not a concern, but tongue weight, safe braking and the transmission strain were all pushed a bit beyond my comfort levels. I wouldn't do it again...


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

Jettaboy1884 said:


> My understanding is that it's more about the transmission than the engine.


Indeed, and also stability, cooling capacity, durability, structure, etc. A whole lot of stuff goes into it. But yeah, engine power is actually pretty low on the totem pole.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Yeah, my 4100-lb truck with 159 hp/180 lb-ft is rated for 3500 lbs. It will do it Ford 300 style where it will do it with no complaints, just eventually, in a low gear at 55 MPH.


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## ValveCoverGasket (Mar 20, 2002)

Jettaboy1884 said:


> I was able to make the issue significantly better by installing a "street" density aftermarket dogbone mount. It controlled the engine rocking a lot more, with minimal vibration issues.


fun fact, this was bad enough on some mercedes cars to warrant an amusing nickname





__





Bonanza effect


Bonanza effect




second.wiki


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Ah did not think about the driveline, had assumed that would all be the same too. Thanks all for the illumination. It's annoying because I think the setup I want to tow adds up to exactly 2700 lb (700 dolly + 2000 car) but that doesn't leave me any headroom for tires, tools, passengers etc.


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## Seabird (Feb 8, 2002)

Since I now own a decent set of tools (see my prior questions about changing the struts and shocks on my son‘s car), I figure they need to earn their keep. I am going to change the oil on my wife’s 2018 4Runner. We have always had it done by a mechanic before, but after watching a few videos, it looks simple. The hardest part will be removing the front skid plate to access the filter. A PITA but not hard.

My question is about synthetic vs std oil. We haven’t used synthetic in this vehicle yet. Should I go ahead and make the switch? Internet opinions are all over the place. I was told a long time ago that it could be harmful to switch over because older engines have deposits that act like seals, and the synth could clean them away, leading to leaks. Is that still accurate? It has about 40K miles on it now.

Synth is a lot more expensive, but Houston is considered an “extreme” climate for heat and humidity, and that’s one thing that makes me consider switching.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

OEM spec is 0W-20 so it has been on synthetic all along.


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## Seabird (Feb 8, 2002)

I did read the manual and knew that 0W-20 was required. I didn't know that weight is specifically synthetic. Thank you.


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

It's more of a myth, IMO. Maybe I wouldn't do it on something with 150,000 miles and middling maintenance ... But I switched my Yaris at around 40,000 miles and had no issues. The first change afterward was pretty dark and gross.

I think the myth is related to the synthetic cleaning out deposits/sludge and then some of the seals that were behind the sludge start to leak. But if you've kept up on changes, it's fine.

My starts up with much less labor when it's below freezing with the synthetic.


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## ValveCoverGasket (Mar 20, 2002)

adrew said:


> It's more of a myth


Yup

This is right up there with mandatory 3k oil changes, batteries that discharge when left on concrete floors, and whatever other fun old wives tales maybe were sorta kinda possibly true 30 years ago.


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## mhjett (Oct 16, 2000)

Seabird said:


> I did read the manual and knew that 0W-20 was required. I didn't know that weight is specifically synthetic. Thank you.


You can't make a 0-weight out of dinosaurs.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

ValveCoverGasket said:


> Yup
> 
> This is right up there with mandatory 3k oil changes, batteries that discharge when left on concrete floors, and whatever other fun old wives tales maybe were sorta kinda possibly true 30 years ago.


You'd have to go back further than 30 years to get a battery that would actually discharge on concrete floors. I'd say you'd need to go back to the '50s as a guess. My thoughts were that the plastics weren't as good at insulating and they'd lose a bit through osmosis.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

I have my '92 Ranger and I just used it to haul 1/2 cubic yard of dirt, which should weigh in at about 900 lb. It hauled it just fine, but the truck is rated at 1600 and I'm going to need another yard at minimum. Is it a terrible idea to haul 1800 lb. (plus my weight) 5 miles? There are two mild hills, but not crazy steep or overly long.

Oh, and the brakes are thoroughly rebuilt and with quality components, including hoses.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Air and water do mix said:


> You'd have to go back further than 30 years to get a battery that would actually discharge on concrete floors. I'd say you'd need to go back to the '50s as a guess. My thoughts were that the plastics weren't as good at insulating and they'd lose a bit through osmosis.


I was told it was a myth in the late '70s or early '80s by a guy about my age who sold rebuilt batteries. If I remember correctly, he said the plates didn't go to the bottom of the case so there was space between them and the case and of course the water and electrolyte didn't freeze. The same guy told me that batteries only last a few years so you should only buy 2 year batteries if you buy new. The 4 year warrantee was pro-rated. You didn't get a free new battery, but got a discount on a new one. He said a two year battery would last as long. I don't know if that still holds true but my cheapest battery has lasted the longest so far. I have 4 dead AGM batteries that will charge to 12V but not hold a charge. I use them to run my 12V Slime tire compressor. 

An old guy told me a few years later that it was heat that killed car batteries. The water evaporated and weakened the batteries in the heat and you noticed in the winter when it wouldn't turn the starter. Decades later, I had 3 or 4 car batteries die on my rental cars in The Middle East.


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

Air and water do mix said:


> I have my '92 Ranger and I just used it to haul 1/2 cubic yard of dirt, which should weigh in at about 900 lb. It hauled it just fine, but the truck is rated at 1600 and I'm going to need another yard at minimum. Is it a terrible idea to haul 1800 lb. (plus my weight) 5 miles? There are two mild hills, but not crazy steep or overly long.
> 
> Oh, and the brakes are thoroughly rebuilt and with quality components, including hoses.


Can anyone tell you in certain terms that this is safe to do? Nope. You're risking various mechanical failures (bubbled tires, bent axles/frame, broken suspension, burned out differential) and accidents (long braking distance, poor handling, light steering) if you go over GVWR. And it would also be illegal and subject to a fine if you get caught.

That said, is the truck going to immediately get squashed by <10% over GVWR and runaway into a tree? Doubtful. When they define GVWR they do it considering the envelope of vehicle use; it has to be able to handle that 1600 lbs not just on a sunny day doing 30mph on a smooth road, but also doing 65 over a potholed interstate while it's downhill and raining. It's hard to say what the weak link would be on your truck, but at a guess you'd be fighting with mostly bottomed out suspension and light and wandering steering over those 5 miles.

Ultimately I would recommend just doing two loads; the small payoff is not worth the risk it entails, and you get more seat time in a cool truck to boot. But <10% over GVWR isn't quite a "don't drive with a blindfold on" situation either.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> I was told it was a myth in the late '70s or early '80s by a guy about my age who sold rebuilt batteries. If I remember correctly, he said the plates didn't go to the bottom of the case so there was space between them and the case and of course the water and electrolyte didn't freeze. The same guy told me that batteries only last a few years so you should only buy 2 year batteries if you buy new. The 4 year warrantee was pro-rated. You didn't get a free new battery, but got a discount on a new one. He said a two year battery would last as long. I don't know if that still holds true but my cheapest battery has lasted the longest so far. I have 4 dead AGM batteries that will charge to 12V but not hold a charge. I use them to run my 12V Slime tire compressor.
> 
> An old guy told me a few years later that it was heat that killed car batteries. The water evaporated and weakened the batteries in the heat and you noticed in the winter when it wouldn't turn the starter. Decades later, I had 3 or 4 car batteries die on my rental cars in The Middle East.


By the ‘70s it was _definitely_ a myth. Remember, in the ‘50s plastics were still pretty primitive, which I why I think it likely has merit.

Also, yes. Heat kills batteries, weakening them, but the weakness shows up when the winter comes and conditions are at their worst. The engine has more mechanical resistance because of thick oil, the starter requires a bit more current, battery output is down because of temp, and the compromised battery just says “oh, the hell with it” and dies.


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## bnkrpt311 (Apr 22, 2010)

How do people stick patches to their headliners? The kids are collecting patches from state parks and I figured they'd get a kick outta sticking em to the headliner. 

I'm open to other patch mounting locations as well though.


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## NotFast (Mar 20, 2002)

More of a mechanic question: when do you replace the calipers during a brake job? I've been given a 13 year old Mazda that need new brakes: it's lived its entire life outside and the whole area (including calipers) have lots of surface rust. Google says 10 years/100k miles but would like a second opinion. Thanks.


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## Death-Incarnate (Nov 17, 2003)

here's a sales question: I'm in the market for a Ford Maverick. Stupid low supply, stupid high demand. I didn't order one and now have to wait for the ordering to open up in August and wait until next year or hope that someone semi-local cancels their order when it shows up. If you were a salesman and some schmuck like myself walks in when you just happen to have a canceled order on the floor, would you sell it to me or would you call someone you've done business with in the past and give them first crack at it?


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

NotFast said:


> More of a mechanic question: when do you replace the calipers during a brake job? I've been given a 13 year old Mazda that need new brakes: it's lived its entire life outside and the whole area (including calipers) have lots of surface rust. Google says 10 years/100k miles but would like a second opinion. Thanks.


I rebuild them as long as the bore and seal area are in good shape. I’m helping a friend right now and we’re rebuilding at least one, but the other one we may replace if we can’t get the rest of the bleeder valve out.

Basically a broken bleeder or pitted bore makes me replace them. I don’t see any other reason to spend money when a kit is often $5 at rock auto.com.

if you flush the brake fluid every two years the bores should be fine.


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## poops (May 10, 2004)

Had a flat over the weekend that requires a new tire (puncture on the sidewall).

The tire that matches the others is no longer available. The shop is recommending a tire with a different aspect ratio. 

The other 3 tires are 245/35 R19. The shop wants to replace the damaged one with a 245/55 R19.

Am I asking for trouble by 'mixing and matching' different aspect ratios?

Thanks in advance!


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## 2wheelgnr (Mar 23, 2021)

I would not mix aspect ratios atleast in a pair like the front two or rear two..throws off the whole balance of the car I thnk. I personally would not do it....but YMMV... Good luck.

those damn low profiles are wallet killers!!!!!


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

poops said:


> Had a flat over the weekend that requires a new tire (puncture on the sidewall).
> 
> The tire that matches the others is no longer available. The shop is recommending a tire with a different aspect ratio.
> 
> ...


Any tire shop worth their salt wouldn't recommend a different aspect ratio. They just want to get you out the door.

In this case the aspect ratio affects the height of the tire, and if it's on the driven axle the differential is constantly engaged/spinning even when going down the highway in a straight line. If the aspect ratio were different, but the overall height were the same that would mean one tire wider than the other. Neither one of those scenarios is acceptable.

I had a similar problem. I sprung for Michelin tires for my Fit and was delighted with them. Well, it's an odd-sized tire and a pothole took out a tire, and none were available. I wound-up with a Kelly Springfield and had to pay $40 to get it.  Then it happened again and I had to get another KS, so now my Michelin tires are downgraded, but that money is still spent.  

Those Michelins were great, although I can't gripe about the KS tires too much. They're still quieter than the Yokohamas and the tires I had before it. This is a noisy car driven to work on the freeway, so noise was a high priority. Had handling/turn-in be the biggest determining factor I would've gotten more of the Yokohamas.


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## poops (May 10, 2004)

Air and water do mix said:


> Any tire shop worth their salt wouldn't recommend a different aspect ratio. They just want to get you out the door.
> 
> In this case the aspect ratio affects the height of the tire, and if it's on the driven axle the differential is constantly engaged/spinning even when going down the highway in a straight line. If the aspect ratio were different, but the overall height were the same that would mean one tire wider than the other. Neither one of those scenarios is acceptable.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the feedback!

What if I get a different tire brand that's the right size and purpose (Summer tire) but a different thread pattern? What is the impact of that choice?


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## elite.mafia (Mar 17, 2010)

Does anyone actually use mid grade gasoline? If so, what vehicle? Why?


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

Some Chryslers recommend it with the Hemi


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## Just Another Sweater (Aug 11, 2002)

I bought a set of BBS CH-R 19 X 8.5 wheels from a friend that were only used for less than 5,000 miles. One of the wheels is so bad that the Hunter Road Force balancing machine displays a 'Recommend Replacement' message. The tires are 235/35/19 Michelin PS4S if that makes a difference. No signs of tire damage at the bent area.

Are these wheels known as 'soft'? My suspicion is either a bad wheels was shipped when new or a sinkhole was hit before they arrived at my house. I'm not going to name the retail but they are huge in the business.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Just Another Sweater said:


> I bought a set of BBS CH-R 19 X 8.5 wheels from a friend that were only used for less than 5,000 miles. One of the wheels is so bad that the Hunter Road Force balancing machine displays a 'Recommend Replacement' message. The tires are 235/35/19 Michelin PS4S if that makes a difference. No signs of tire damage at the bent area.
> 
> Are these wheels known as 'soft'? My suspicion is either a bad wheels was shipped when new or a sinkhole was hit before they arrived at my house. I'm not going to name the retail but they are huge in the business.


Why would you blame the company if you bought them used from a friend?

Did your friend buy them from some company that sells used wheels, but your friend never used them?

I bought 4 reconditioned wheels from eBay from a few different sellers. Three were from TX and were the same "brand" but from different eBay sellers. I tried to have tires mounted but two of the wheels had buggered out valves stem openings and the installer couldn't install the TPMS sensors. I looked at them recently and would have to get the junk machined out. My Dremel won't do it. They look nice if I want display wheels.

I have no idea which company the bad wheels came from because I bought from different sellers. One of the wheels was from the first wheel refinisher company and the others weren't. I won't name either of the companies but at least one was bad from the TX company. The other company was probably the first in the business but it's always possible that they sold me one of the bad ones. There are no brand labels to determine which company refinished the bad ones.

Back to your question, the _BBS CH-R_ is a cast wheel but it's heat-treated. I have owned _BBS RZ_ cast wheels since 1992 and those were definitely not soft from the factory. I haven't hit any curbs head-on with them but probably ran over a few potholes. I bought them with _Bridgestone Turanza_ tires mounted from _Tire Rack_ in 1992. I have never had a problem from _Tire Rack_ and still buy most of my tires from them.

Did the installers try spinning the wheel without the tire so see if it's the wheel or tire?

I'd be less surprised if the tire had a heavy spot.

When the ZR-1 came out, Chevy spun the wheels without tires to determine the heaviest spot. They determined the heaviest spot on the Goodyear Gatorback tires. They mounted the Gatorback tires with their heavy spots opposite of the wheel's heavy spots.


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## Just Another Sweater (Aug 11, 2002)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> Why would you blame the company if you bought them used from a friend?
> 
> Did your friend buy them from some company that sells used wheels, but your friend never used them?


He bought the wheels and tires brand new. A high quality wheel should not bend when the tire is perfectly fine. I guess I just expect better from a $700 each wheel than it to look like a pringle after 5,000 miles. The finish is still factory like. I'll ad a picture in a bit.



















Edit; Pictures added. I've been frinds with this man since 1985.


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## DonL (Feb 28, 1999)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> Did the installers try spinning the wheel without the tire so see if it's the wheel or tire?
> 
> I'd be less surprised if the tire had a heavy spot.


Yeah, this. Have them give the bare wheels a spin and see what happens. I would guess somebody was careless with mounting and you may have a couple of heavy spots coinciding.


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## Just Another Sweater (Aug 11, 2002)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> Did the installers try spinning the wheel without the tire so see if it's the wheel or tire?
> 
> I'd be less surprised if the tire had a heavy spot.


I took the wheels to a dealership that has a Hunter road balancing machine. They installed four no season tires that I use during the winter. They did such a good job on this set that I can drive well over triple digits and the ride is as smooth as can be for a GTI.

The worst BBS CH-R has a significant deviationi with the inside lip when spun on their machine I didn't look at the outside lip when it was spinning.That wheel is junk to me. The other wheel also has a deviation but less significant. Also junk to me. I discovered the problem when getting on the highway and accelerating to merge with traffic. At about 60 mph the vibration started which progressed to violent shaking by 75 mph.

Nope this isn't going to work. Not going to have repaired wheels on my car because I might decide to drive flat out at any time and want to survive for many years to come.

Options are to buy two new wheels and reuse the tires (many mile of treadlife left on all tires). Or sell them and fully disclose the defects.

Not mad, just asking if this is something others have experienced with these wheels.


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## CoreyB (Nov 26, 2009)

I've mounted and balanced a few tires in my day and a bent wheel is painfully obvious when it's being spun up. Really no need to spin the wheel separate from the tire. Also, most road force balancers will take rim run out measurements if needed.

Onto the bent wheel. I actually bent a BBS CH on my S4, I knew the wheel was bent the second it happened. Took a very bad pothole to bend it though. My tire was totally fine as well. No damage to it from the impact. I would imagine that your friend did the same in the 5000 miles that he used the wheels. The low profile tires certainly don't help the situation out, I've seen plenty of high quality wheels bend because of them. Also highly unlikely it was damaged during shipping.

Here's a picture of mine for reference, managed to bend one of those with quite a bit more sidewall, **** happens sometimes. They definitely aren't a soft wheel and actually have a very beefy barrel. It takes a lot of force to get one out of round.









The good news is that a quality wheel shop should be able to straighten it, depending on severity, definitely wouldn't sweat a straightened wheel safety wise. Either that or balance it and put it on the back of the car, much less likely to notice it on the rear. Drove all last summer with my bent one on the rear of the car and I'm super sensitive with vibrations. Third option is to buy a new wheel(if still available) and keep the bent one as a matching spare.


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## Just Another Sweater (Aug 11, 2002)

^ completely understood. I'm undecided on what to do. I'm inclined to just bail since the 19" wheels have such a low profile sidewall. Imo, 17" wheels would more for me but brake caliper clearance can be an issue due to the diameter of the brakes. A good compromise is 18" wheels and just being careful.

I don't like throwing money away but also don't like chasing sunk cost. For now they can just sit in my storage bedroom until I decide what to do.

Edit: it could just be me but it looks like there are two or three micro cracks in the spokes. I'll see If I can get a decent picture.

Edit 2: There are half a dozen pin hole voids that are abnormal like this one.









What I think are cracks


















Maybe I'm being too OCD but this is a safety concern.


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## accRazor (Dec 28, 2010)

Should I change the oil of my car if its over 6 months old and has less than 3K miles since my last oil change?


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## Just Another Sweater (Aug 11, 2002)

accRazor said:


> Should I change the oil of my car if its over 6 months old and has less than 3K miles since my last oil change?


What kind of car? 

Most manufacturers recommend changing the oil and filter every year or 7,500 to 10,000 miles, which ever comes first. This is assuming the car was not driven under racing conditions. I change mine every 5,000 miles or one year due to the turbo and I usually time out first.


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## CoreyB (Nov 26, 2009)

Just Another Sweater said:


> ^ completely understood. I'm undecided on what to do. I'm inclined to just bail since the 19" wheels have such a low profile sidewall. Imo, 17" wheels would more for me but brake caliper clearance can be an issue due to the diameter of the brakes. A good compromise is 18" wheels and just being careful.
> 
> I don't like throwing money away but also don't like chasing sunk cost. For now they can just sit in my storage bedroom until I decide what to do.
> 
> ...


Tough to tell if its cracked or not from the pictures, but based off the description you gave of it, it took a pretty hard hit at some point in its life. I'd say replacing it would be the safest move in this scenario and then straighten the other one with the minor bend or run it on the rear. Also not sure about the voids, the finish on the barrels of mine has stayed perfect. Mine were bought used and I've put about 50k of hard miles on them so it seems odd that your set would have surface imperfections like that. 

It sounds like you want out of them though so cutting your losses and moving onto another set is probably the wisest move. Not sure what car/brakes you have, but if it helps, I've run three sets of 17's on my S4 which has a macan brake set up that uses 345mm rotors. The only wheels that had clearance issues were my 17" Avus wheels and a 10mm spacer along with careful wheel weight placement got them to clear. 18's would be the safest bet though, I just prefer 17's. Either would provide more sidewall and a more compliant ride than the 19's.



accRazor said:


> Should I change the oil of my car if its over 6 months old and has less than 3K miles since my last oil change?


Would help to know the car/engine and oil type/grade along with how it's used, but assuming its synthetic oil and sees full operating temp regularly there is no need to change it. General rule is to change at one year, but even this isn't technically necessary as oil doesn't go bad based off time, it is more a suggestion to help people stay on regular oil change schedules. On my personal cars I start thinking about an oil change at about 7500 miles and usually have it done before 10k. 

Modern synthetic oils have zero issue going 10k in the majority of cars. Some can be pushed even further with zero issue. Again this is largely based on how the car is used, the engine in question, the oil type and manufacturers recommendations.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> When the ZR-1 came out, Chevy spun the wheels without tires to determine the heaviest spot. They determined the heaviest spot on the Goodyear Gatorback tires. They mounted the Gatorback tires with their heavy spots opposite of the wheel's heavy spots.


I do believe every manufacturer does this to eliminate any possible issues. There are dots on the tire and wheel of new cars that match up as the antipoint to each other. And, advanced tire machines can tell you the wheel heavy spot. But I think you have to mount, measure, dismount, adjust, and remount to find the light spot on the tire to match. Usually it's of no consequence in regular cars though.


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## MBrown (Aug 1, 2000)

VDub2625 said:


> I do believe every manufacturer does this. There are dots on the tire and wheel of new cars that match up as the antipoint to each other.


When my partner and I brought our cars in to have the winter tires balanced and swapped in about 18 months ago, the shop found that the heavy spots on most of the wheels and tires were not aligned properly.

I won't mention where we got them, but they are a very popular online purveyor of tires and other accessories.


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## Just Another Sweater (Aug 11, 2002)

CoreyB said:


> Tough to tell if its cracked or not from the pictures, but based off the description you gave of it, it took a pretty hard hit at some point in its life. I'd say replacing it would be the safest move in this scenario and then straighten the other one with the minor bend or run it on the rear. Also not sure about the voids, the finish on the barrels of mine has stayed perfect. Mine were bought used and I've put about 50k of hard miles on them so it seems odd that your set would have surface imperfections like that.
> 
> It sounds like you want out of them though so cutting your losses and moving onto another set is probably the wisest move. Not sure what car/brakes you have, but if it helps, I've run three sets of 17's on my S4 which has a macan brake set up that uses 345mm rotors. The only wheels that had clearance issues were my 17" Avus wheels and a 10mm spacer along with careful wheel weight placement got them to clear. 18's would be the safest bet though, I just prefer 17's. Either would provide more sidewall and a more compliant ride than the 19's.


2017 GTI Sport, some 17s will fit but 18s come from the factory. Even the 17s that do fit have minimal caliper clearance. I haven't decided yet but I'm probably going to bail. buy two new wheels and tires vs staying with the stock wheels vs. buying a set of 18s. I can always sell the two good wheels and tires.

Some short videos for any interested in watching









Bent BBS CH-R


Bent BBS CH-R Wheel 19" X 8.5"




www.youtube.com













Bent BBS CH-R 19" X 8.5"


Bent BBS CH-R wheel 19" X 8.5"




www.youtube.com


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## CoreyB (Nov 26, 2009)

Just Another Sweater said:


> 2017 GTI Sport, some 17s will fit but 18s come from the factory. Even the 17s that do fit have minimal caliper clearance. I haven't decided yet but I'm probably going to bail. buy two new wheels and tires vs staying with the stock wheels vs. buying a set of 18s. I can always sell the two good wheels and tires.
> 
> Some short videos for any interested in watching
> 
> ...


That bend actually isn't too crazy and could be fixed fairly easily. I've seen much worse than that repaired to 90% or better. The potential cracks are what I'd want checked out by a wheel shop, tough to tell what's going on there without them in front of me.

Here's clearance on the Avus wheels on my set up.










I think I could get a piece of paper between the wheel weights and the caliper Haha never gave me any issues in the two seasons I ran them. Ended up getting a set of OZ's to replace them which allowed me to ditch the spacers.



VDub2625 said:


> I do believe every manufacturer does this to eliminate any possible issues. There are dots on the tire and wheel of new cars that match up as the antipoint to each other. And, advanced tire machines can tell you the wheel heavy spot. But I think you have to mount, measure, dismount, adjust, and remount to find the light spot on the tire to match. Usually it's of no consequence in regular cars though.


In the aftermarket, match mounting is only accurately done with road force balancers. Weight matching cannot easily be done as most manufacturers do not permanently mark the heavy spot on their wheels. The dots on the tires are meaningless if a road force machine was used. Also, rim run out will almost certainly vary over time with any wheel. A road force balancer is just a much faster and more efficient way of achieving the same results.

Not all tire manufacturers place dots on tires either. Michelin for instance does not mark their tires IME.


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## accRazor (Dec 28, 2010)

Just Another Sweater said:


> What kind of car?
> 
> Most manufacturers recommend changing the oil and filter every year or 7,500 to 10,000 miles, which ever comes first. This is assuming the car was not driven under racing conditions. I change mine every 5,000 miles or one year due to the turbo and I usually time out first.


89 Golf GTI 16v. High on the miles. Engine: 1.8L 16v (PL) Oil: Castrol Synthetic Blend, 20W50. The car is driven occasionally once per week if not less. It's been over 6 months since the last oil change and have about 1,800 miles driven. Oil looks to be in good shape based on the color.


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## MBrown (Aug 1, 2000)

MBrown said:


> When my partner and I brought our cars in to have the winter tires balanced and swapped in about 18 months ago, the shop found that the heavy spots on most of the wheels and tires were not aligned properly.
> 
> I won't mention where we got them, but they are a very popular online purveyor of tires and other accessories.


I forgot to mention that one of the tires was mounted backwards. The sidewalls are clearly marked "Inner" and "Outer" and they had it backwards.


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## Baltimoron (Oct 10, 2001)

Asked my question in the dead B9 subforum with no replies. Can anyone help identify what this mystery OBD plug could be in my 2018 S5 SB? I bought the car used last year and didn't notice this plug until I scanned for CEL and recoding some modules. I kind of thought it was a cover for a while until I noticed the plug has pins and a wire leading out of it.





















AFAICT there are no identifying marks or branding on the plug and the wire is going somewhere into the dash. I have not removed any panels to further check it out and I have no history on the car prior to my purchase but I am not seeing any additional wiring in the cowl or along the sensors that are spoofed with a JB4. The car doesn't generate any CELs with it plugged in or unplugged and it doesn't feel like it has the extra power that a JB4 unlocks. Nothing has been detected during any of the visits to the dealer but that's kind of the point with JB4. I can retrieve CEL codes from all modules and they are not autoclearing like I've heard some of the piggyback modules do.
I'm thinking it could be one of the following:
-old piggy back that the PO removed from the bay but didn't feel like disassembling the dash to remove this plug
-dashcam plug
-Audi's 4G retrofit
-some kind of CIA mind control device

Maybe I'll have to get under there and check it out further before I make my next chiropractor appointment.


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## Jettaboy1884 (Jan 20, 2004)

^ Seems to me like it would be a simple extender, and doing a Google search comes up with very similar looking products. Maybe the car was in for some diagnostic work and a tech forgot to remove it?

Here's a question I've always been wondering: Why do people over-use AN fittings for stuff that functionally doesn't need it? The photo below is a good example, the blue hoses are the PCV breathers going to a catch-can setup. The PCV system should see very minimal pressure or vacuum at any given point, and yet there are AN fittings at both ends. Simply pressing the hose onto flared hose fittings (or barbs) would be good enough, and maybe add a clamp for good measure. The AN fittings are adding weight and complexity. I don't get it, other than "Racecar"...

/rant


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## Stevo12 (Jul 28, 2015)

Jettaboy1884 said:


> Here's a question I've always been wondering: Why do people over-use AN fittings for stuff that functionally doesn't need it? The photo below is a good example, the blue hoses are the PCV breathers going to a catch-can setup. The PCV system should see very minimal pressure or vacuum at any given point, and yet there are AN fittings at both ends. Simply pressing the hose onto flared hose fittings (or barbs) would be good enough, and maybe add a clamp for good measure. The AN fittings are adding weight and complexity. I don't get it, other than "Racecar"...
> 
> /rant


I'm actually having some significant difficulty with putting together a PCV system in my Mk2 VR6 and can see where putting AN fittings might make it easier. I agree that for the operating pressures, temperatures, fluids, and such that an AN scheme is overkill, but I've been thinking about doing it for my car.

First off, the breather port on the VR6 is a 3/4" barb that points right at the intake elbow - where it usually enters in the stock PCV configuration. But, I have an S&P intake on mine which doesn't have a PCV port. So, I need a way to re-route the breather venting, and because racecar, the usual drawbacks of a catch can (fumes/smells) aren't really an issue because I don't drive the car on the street.

My initial pass has a big honkin' 3/4" hose coming off the breather, but there's no much room to make a bend with just the house coming off the straight barb and it really limits my ability to place the catch can where it makes sense and also not interfere as much with the intake elbo.. So, an AN fitting would come in handy there to make the tight bend. You could use a barb fitting, but there's a variety of tube AN adapters at various angles that you could buy to suit your application. It would also allow me to size down the AN line, as there's not a ton of volume, and the size of the hose is really limiting my routing abilities.

There's also the removal aspect if you're constantly tinkering. Much easier to remove/re-attach a threaded fitting than fighting with the barbed ports, especially after heat/use.

Tl;dr agreed it's overkill based on the operating conditions, but it's hard to beat the variety and flexibility of AN parts that are available to make work what I need done.


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

poops said:


> Thanks for the feedback!
> 
> What if I get a different tire brand that's the right size and purpose (Summer tire) but a different thread pattern? What is the impact of that choice?


It’s a really late response, but what they hey. If it doesn’t do you any good now it’ll be here for posterity.

I don’t like mixing tires left-right, but since ABS is ubiquitous nowadays it’s not as big of a deal as it was. The problem with mixing different tires was that the tread pattern and rubber compound were likely _both_ different, leading to traction issues being superior for one tire under some conditions and the other tire under some _other_ conditions.

I was forced into a tire change by the horrible supply chain issues, but under normal circumstances I would avoid it. ABS is a helpful band-aid, but the underlying mismatch is still present and does affect traction.



elite.mafia said:


> Does anyone actually use mid grade gasoline? If so, what vehicle? Why?


my car uses cheap gas, and at this point I don’t care about it much, but I’ll sometimes buy the mid grade in very hot weather to try to avoid detonation.



Jettaboy1884 said:


> Here's a question I've always been wondering: Why do people over-use AN fittings for stuff that functionally doesn't need it? The photo below is a good example, the blue hoses are the PCV breathers going to a catch-can setup. The PCV system should see very minimal pressure or vacuum at any given point, and yet there are AN fittings at both ends. Simply pressing the hose onto flared hose fittings (or barbs) would be good enough, and maybe add a clamp for good measure. The AN fittings are adding weight and complexity. I don't get it, other than "Racecar"...
> 
> /rant





Stevo12 said:


> I'm actually having some significant difficulty with putting together a PCV system in my Mk2 VR6 and can see where putting AN fittings might make it easier. I agree that for the operating pressures, temperatures, fluids, and such that an AN scheme is overkill, but I've been thinking about doing it for my car.
> 
> First off, the breather port on the VR6 is a 3/4" barb that points right at the intake elbow - where it usually enters in the stock PCV configuration. But, I have an S&P intake on mine which doesn't have a PCV port. So, I need a way to re-route the breather venting, and because racecar, the usual drawbacks of a catch can (fumes/smells) aren't really an issue because I don't drive the car on the street.
> 
> ...


AN fittings can be either a fitment issue or a vanity issue. Some folks buy them “because they’re cool”, but to me in a street car they look wildly out of place. I’ve seen elaborate setups for crankcase breathers on air cooled VWs, but they’re usually cumbersome looking to say the least.

As far as a catch can goes, do those lines allow for the passage of air? If so, large lines are paramount, as you want the air and oil to be able to go through at the same time, and the path should allow for the oil to be able to drain back to either the crankcase or catch can. If it has a droop anywhere it will act like the P Trap under your kitchen sink, which also shuts off low pressure air movement.


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## Elite_Deforce (Nov 18, 2012)

Speaking of catch cans generally, are they really needed in street vehicles? I hear mixed things about this (obviously since it is an engine oil subject).


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## 6cylVWguy (Jun 14, 2000)

Elite_Deforce said:


> Speaking of catch cans generally, are they really needed in street vehicles? I hear mixed things about this (obviously since it is an engine oil subject).


For street cars, most of the argument for the use of a catch can surround either using it on the track (not just a dedicated track car) or for applications well above the stock hp. I added on to my car because I track it and it had a s/c so I figured it wouldn't hurt. I'm doing a track day on Wednesday and will see what it looks like afterwards. If I don't see anything substantial then I suppose it's not really necessary. 

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk


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## elite.mafia (Mar 17, 2010)

Elite_Deforce said:


> Speaking of catch cans generally, are they really needed in street vehicles? I hear mixed things about this (obviously since it is an engine oil subject).


depends on the engine, if there's tons of oil coming out of the PCV valve, it would be beneficial....


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## Jettaboy1884 (Jan 20, 2004)

I've been hearing that on direct injection engines they can really help with prolonging carbon buildup on the back of the intake valves.

I used to have a 2017 Honda Fit (with DI) and a bunch of people were installing catch cans and then took photos and made logs of how much they caught and what it looked like. Often, the accumulation was surprising, and you know it would have ended up in the intake tract.

The downside really is that they require periodic emptying / cleaning. So I think that's the main reason they aren't suitable as a factory solution.


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## DneprDave (Sep 8, 2018)

Jettaboy1884 said:


> I've been hearing that on direct injection engines they can really help with prolonging carbon buildup on the back of the intake valves.
> 
> I used to have a 2017 Honda Fit (with DI) and a bunch of people were installing catch cans and then took photos and made logs of how much they caught and what it looked like. Often, the accumulation was surprising, and you know it would have ended up in the intake tract.
> 
> The downside really is that they require periodic emptying / cleaning. So I think that's the main reason they aren't suitable as a factory solution.


This, only with MINI Coopers.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Jettaboy1884 said:


> I've been hearing that on direct injection engines they can really help with prolonging carbon buildup on the back of the intake valves.
> 
> I used to have a 2017 Honda Fit (with DI) and a bunch of people were installing catch cans and then took photos and made logs of how much they caught and what it looked like. Often, the accumulation was surprising, and you know it would have ended up in the intake tract.
> 
> The downside really is that they require periodic emptying / cleaning. So I think that's the main reason they aren't suitable as a factory solution.


I think the reason they aren't on factory street cars is probably the same reason they don't have breather caps any more. Because of emissions. The oil vapor is supposed to be dumped into the intake to be burned. Emissions equipment is mandated to be guaranteed for 50K miles. If it fails, the manufacturer has to fix it up to 50K miles. You would have to take a car back to the dealer every few thousand miles or get it documented at an authorized emissions test station just to empty the catch can or the manufacturer would void the emissions warranty. The EPA doesn't mess around. Back in the '90s, I was getting something done at an exhaust shop. They had an EPA poster on the wall saying they would not install a "test pipe" because it was a $25K fine for each instance if the EPA found out.


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## Jimmy Russells (Feb 4, 2007)

Maybe someone can answer this…

We just picked up a new Forester. The push button start, when you don’t put your foot on the brake, goes from ACC (accessory) with one click, on (ignition power) with second click, and off with third click.

Is there any way to get it to go from ACC, directly to off, without turning ignition power on and waking up all the modules, fuel pump, lights etc etc?


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## DonPatrizio (Nov 30, 2007)

How does the MB 4.0TT V8 make as much if not more power than the 5.5TT V8 that it replaced? 



https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_M278_engine





https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_M176/M177/M178_engine



Am I wrong thinking the additional 1.5L would yield more output? Or does it still make power power in reality when it's tuned?

Thanks, just something I've wondered about.


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## ValveCoverGasket (Mar 20, 2002)

accRazor said:


> Should I change the oil of my car if its over 6 months old and has less than 3K miles since my last oil change?


definitely not


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## ValveCoverGasket (Mar 20, 2002)

Jettaboy1884 said:


> The downside really is that they require periodic emptying / cleaning. So I think that's the main reason they aren't suitable as a factory solution.


heavier equipment has oil separators - you can also set up a lot of the _actual _catch cans (mann, racor, etc not cheezy aluminum ebay stuff) into a somewhat similar configuration. 
where it separators oil from vapor - vapor goes out either outside or back into the intake, and the liquid goes back into the crankcase.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

DonPatrizio said:


> How does the MB 4.0TT V8 make as much if not more power than the 5.5TT V8 that it replaced?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Compression ratio, timing, boost.


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## AZGolf (Jun 6, 2000)

They're always coming up with ways for cylinder heads to flow air more efficiently too, and/or to run bigger cams without ruining idle as well as newer turbos have a wider operation range. So you can have a turbo that still comes on boost just as low, but flows more air up high, translating into more power when you have those cylinder heads and cams to support it. I don't know about those specific engines, but what I mentioned is what I've observed over the last 20 years or so since factory turbocharging came back into favor.


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## bnkrpt311 (Apr 22, 2010)

I'm drooling over some front strut assemblies for the truck. I've watched a few install videos and I'm just not sure why people don't just buy a new pair of top hats versus swapping them from the old to the new. Considering how dangerous it can be to compress the spring, why not just throw new top hats on the new struts? 

It'd be even better if the new assemblies came with top hats but I assume that's unsafe since the spring is under tension then. Right?


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## 4.OMG (Dec 20, 2004)

bnkrpt311 said:


> I'm drooling over some front strut assemblies for the truck. I've watched a few install videos and I'm just not sure why people don't just buy a new pair of top hats versus swapping them from the old to the new. Considering how dangerous it can be to compress the spring, why not just throw new top hats on the new struts?
> 
> It'd be even better if the new assemblies came with top hats but I assume that's unsafe since the spring is under tension then. Right?


Lots of coilovers come preassembled with new top hats installed.


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## bnkrpt311 (Apr 22, 2010)

4.OMG said:


> Lots of coilovers come preassembled with new top hats installed.


The Bilstein 6112's that I want do not. Can I just buy a new pair of OEM top hats and avoid screwing around with removing the current ones?


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## 4.OMG (Dec 20, 2004)

bnkrpt311 said:


> The Bilstein 6112's that I want do not. Can I just buy a new pair of OEM top hats and avoid screwing around with removing the current ones?


Sure, or you could buy something like this: Bilstein 6112 Strut & Spring Assembled Front Pair for 2021-2022 Ford F150 4WD


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## bnkrpt311 (Apr 22, 2010)

4.OMG said:


> Sure, or you could buy something like this: Bilstein 6112 Strut & Spring Assembled Front Pair for 2021-2022 Ford F150 4WD


Good grief. Thank you! I've been looking at another retailer and didn't even think to check Shock Surplus.


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## djstarscr3am (Aug 16, 2012)

Baltimoron said:


> Asked my question in the dead B9 subforum with no replies. Can anyone help identify what this mystery OBD plug could be in my 2018 S5 SB? I bought the car used last year and didn't notice this plug until I scanned for CEL and recoding some modules. I kind of thought it was a cover for a while until I noticed the plug has pins and a wire leading out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Burger JB1/4?


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Why is my windshield fluid growing stuff?


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## NotFast (Mar 20, 2002)

I inherited a car recently for my daughter and I found that one of the swaybar endlinks is broken (13 year old Mazda 6 kept outdoors - corrosion). Why wouldn't I notice this? Because the car is not sporty / we're not driving it hard?


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## Air and water do mix (Aug 5, 2004)

NotFast said:


> I inherited a car recently for my daughter and I found that one of the swaybar endlinks is broken (13 year old Mazda 6 kept outdoors - corrosion). Why wouldn't I notice this? Because the car is not sporty / we're not driving it hard?


Sway bars don’t do anything when you’re driving straight down the road or even when you hit a bump with both wheels. There will be a little more stiffness when you hit a bump with one wheel, but their actual purpose is to transfer some of the load to the outside tire, which reduces lean somewhat. The thicker the bar the more obvious it is, but almost all sway bars could be completely removed with no catastrophic effects.

Fix it, and replace the other while you’re at it, but don’t sweat it too much.


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## 4.OMG (Dec 20, 2004)

thegave said:


> Why is my windshield fluid growing stuff?
> 
> View attachment 230807


This will happen if your washer fluid doesn't have alcohol in it, and can actually become a major health risk - there was an outbreak of Legionnaire's disease some years back (in Florida, I think) that the health authorities traced to bacteria growing in washer fluid tanks that people had filled with straight water because they didn't need to protect against freezing. 

We obviously can't tell what kind of fluid you're using by looking at it, but generic ready to use fluid that's rated to -10 or -20 degrees will avoid this. It's not nearly as economical as making your own fluid from concentrate, but well worth the cost IMO.


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

what can I do to protect my hood seals from swelling due to contact with rustproofing?

I rustproof my Mazda3 @Krown every year, and my seals and plastics have widely suffered from it due to swelling and bulging. I'm not going to replace my well overdue hood seals with fresh factory ones but...kinda want to protect them at least a little from my greasy hood. Would coating them with a silicone-based lubricant help?


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

worth_fixing said:


> what can I do to protect my hood seals from swelling due to contact with rustproofing?
> 
> I rustproof my Mazda3 @Krown every year, and my seals and plastics have widely suffered from it due to swelling and bulging. I'm not going to replace my well overdue hood seals with fresh factory ones but...kinda want to protect them at least a little from my greasy hood. Would coating them with a silicone-based lubricant help?


I use a silicone lube on all my seals on my convertible every year to keep them soft, so that should be good 🤷‍♂️


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

VDub2625 said:


> I use a silicone lube on all my seals on my convertible every year to keep them soft, so that should be good


ah ok! cool, i'll try that.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

another odd observation. I've noticed that my wife's 2014 Jetta seems to go through about 3 lightbulbs a year while my 2014 Mazda3, I think I've changed 3 lightbulbs in 9 years. I buy the the same quality lightbulb as replacement, so...what's the deal? Is the Volkswagen's electrical distribution more abusive to lightbulbs? Too much/too little voltage, too much cycling...I don't know.


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## DneprDave (Sep 8, 2018)

Maybe it has a bad ground in the lighting system.


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## GreenandChrome (May 24, 2002)

worth_fixing said:


> another odd observation. I've noticed that my wife's 2014 Jetta seems to go through about 3 lightbulbs a year while my 2014 Mazda3, I think I've changed 3 lightbulbs in 9 years. I buy the the same quality lightbulb as replacement, so...what's the deal? Is the Volkswagen's electrical distribution more abusive to lightbulbs? Too much/too little voltage, too much cycling...I don't know.


Volkswagen have electrical issues? Clearly you jest!

I wanna know why my OEM bulbs last 3x as long as replacement bulbs. F you GE & Thomas Edison.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

worth_fixing said:


> another odd observation. I've noticed that my wife's 2014 Jetta seems to go through about 3 lightbulbs a year while my 2014 Mazda3, I think I've changed 3 lightbulbs in 9 years. I buy the the same quality lightbulb as replacement, so...what's the deal? Is the Volkswagen's electrical distribution more abusive to lightbulbs? Too much/too little voltage, too much cycling...I don't know.


I don't know specifically about that, but I can say that VW's central electric system computer will cut power to a bulb if it has an "unexpected" resistance (which can happen often with aftermarket bulbs), or a very short temporary disconnect (like, say an intermittently bad connector) and it will stay off, even if the bulb is actually fine, and it will reset at the next key cycle. So I'd be extra sure it's actually bad 😂


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

GreenandChrome said:


> Volkswagen have electrical issues? Clearly you jest!
> 
> I wanna know why my OEM bulbs last 3x as long as replacement bulbs. F you GE & Thomas Edison.


I used to buy brighter (more expensive) sealed beams for my '77 Ford but they would both pop at the same time. They would last around a year but I would turn on the low beams and they would both die. I went back to yellowish standard sealed beams and haven't had to replace them since.


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## ghost03 (Oct 22, 2007)

worth_fixing said:


> another odd observation. I've noticed that my wife's 2014 Jetta seems to go through about 3 lightbulbs a year while my 2014 Mazda3, I think I've changed 3 lightbulbs in 9 years. I buy the the same quality lightbulb as replacement, so...what's the deal? Is the Volkswagen's electrical distribution more abusive to lightbulbs? Too much/too little voltage, too much cycling...I don't know.





GreenandChrome said:


> I wanna know why my OEM bulbs last 3x as long as replacement bulbs. F you GE & Thomas Edison.


A bulb can go out whenever and be no big deal, but if bulbs are consistently not lasting long, usually there's some underlying problem. Maybe the way it goes in you're getting dirt or grease on it when installing, maybe the housing has dirt in it, maybe something is loose and allowing the bulb to vibrate excessively, or otherwise.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

ghost03 said:


> A bulb can go out whenever and be no big deal, but if bulbs are consistently not lasting long, usually there's some underlying problem. Maybe the way it goes in you're getting dirt or grease on it when installing, maybe the housing has dirt in it, maybe something is loose and allowing the bulb to vibrate excessively, or otherwise.


That doesn't explain why OEM or standard replacement bulbs don't die. 

Aftermarket bulbs may not meet the same standards in an effort to be "brighter".


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## worth_fixing (Dec 23, 2009)

i see a ton of other mk6 jettas with burned out parking lights too though, and mazda3s, barely at all.


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## Surf Green (Feb 16, 1999)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> That doesn't explain why OEM or standard replacement bulbs don't die.
> 
> Aftermarket bulbs may not meet the same standards in an effort to be "brighter".


IIRC, most of the OEM bulbs I've replaced have LL designations. They're often difficult to find in Auto Parts stores, especially markers/turn bulbs.

I usually end up ordering them online.


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## mittencuh (Feb 25, 2014)

Every Honda I’ve owned has ate through bulbs too. I’ve already replaced one headlamp on the 2020 Odyssey and my 2016 I replaced a reverse bulb in 2019. I don’t think I’ve ever had a reverse light go out on another vehicle.


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## VDub2625 (Jan 4, 2003)

Surf Green said:


> IIRC, most of the OEM bulbs I've replaced have LL designations. They're often difficult to find in Auto Parts stores, especially markers/turn bulbs.
> 
> I usually end up ordering them online.


That is true, the OEMs have designations for Long Life or Normal bulbs, maybe that's part of it. I always sold the Long Life versions at the dealer.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

What's the best lube for squeaky doors?


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## adrew (Aug 15, 2003)

thegave said:


> What's the best lube for squeaky doors?


I use white lithium grease for that - it also works great on stiff manual transmission linkage


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## ValveCoverGasket (Mar 20, 2002)

thegave said:


> What's the best lube for squeaky doors?


i use boeshield on almost all the "this squeaks and it shouldnt" joints 









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www.amazon.com


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

adrew said:


> it also works great on stiff manual transmission linkage


Gonna try this out thanks for the tip.


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## Stevo12 (Jul 28, 2015)

mittencuh said:


> Every Honda I’ve owned has ate through bulbs too. I’ve already replaced one headlamp on the 2020 Odyssey and my 2016 I replaced a reverse bulb in 2019. I don’t think I’ve ever had a reverse light go out on another vehicle.


My wife's old '02 Civic used to go through headlights every 6 months for the last couple years we had it. I think the voltage regulator circuit in the ECU was going out because the car was charging around 15-16 volts.

That car was HAGGARD at 10-11 years old, was not Honda quality at all.


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