# 02A cable shifter conversion to rod shifter conversion



## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

*02A 02J hydro conversion in Golf Jetta Mark I*

First,
Thank you for looking at my thread


I am putting this together for all those that want to do a 02A/02J swap into a Mark I Golf/Cabby/Caddy/Jetta

5 things to consider:

*1) driveshafts* 

output flanges need to be the 100mm, later 02J's have the 108mm these won't work I have an explanation below on how to do the conversion
you also need to have >1988 Cabriolet or Scirocco 16v driveshafts


*2) clutch engagement*

two options
2a) hydro clutch with a clutch master and a clutch slave, makes for a super smooth and totally oem driving experience, you will have to reinforce the firewall and drill a hole for the clutch master cyl to go through and attach to the clutch pedal, if this doesn't quite make sense, refer to pics below that discuss the different ways you can mount the clutch master cyl



2b) eurovan cable clutch set upin order to convert from hydraulic to cable using


















look what I found our friends at eurowise offer!!

http://euro-wise.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=306

http://euro-wise.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=336*

3) speedo cable* on 90 and early 91 02A's that is mechanical, the later years I think have a VSS because the cluster becomes digital

*4) custom mounts* these are inevitable, no way will the stock 020 mounts work

*5) shifting gears*

5a) retrofitting the shifter cables out of a Mark III VR/ Mark IV



5b) use a rod shift conversion

http://www.clausvonessen.de/pi69/pi38/pd1332.html


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## CanadianCabby (Sep 1, 2006)

*Re: 02A cable shifter conversion to rod shifter conversion (35i 2000)*

to convert to rod shift you need to either buy or make some custom pieces.. you can pic them up ongerman ebay.. everything else you said sounds about right


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## antichristonwheels (Jun 14, 2001)

*Re: 02A cable shifter conversion to rod shifter conversion (35i 2000)*

I have this it's good stuff:
http://www.clausvonessen.de/pi38/pd648.html


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: 02A cable shifter conversion to rod shifter conversion (antichristonwheels)*

more info added


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

found this:

http://forum.vwsport.com/viewtopic.php?t=25528


and here are the main pics from his thread really really useful!!


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## Bubble Block (Sep 19, 2009)

antichristonwheels said:


> I have this it's good stuff:<p><A HREF="http://www.clausvonessen.de/pi38/pd648.html" TARGET="_blank">http://www.clausvonessen.de/pi38/pd648.html</A>


I also own this kit, but have yet to install it. :thumbup:


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## formerfreeagent (Oct 9, 2007)

Is there anywhere that these kits can still be purchased from? The above link is dead and I am in search of one


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## Bubble Block (Sep 19, 2009)

formerfreeagent said:


> Is there anywhere that these kits can still be purchased from? The above link is dead and I am in search of one


Here is the fixed link. 

As far as being purchased else where, the lesser quality verision of the above kit can be purchased through Eurowise.com, click Here to see the kit on the same site (Notice the english notation on the name of the item which states "North American customers can order these kits at Eurowise to cut shipping times and costs."

Needless to say I payed for the premium package, the shipping and wait time was worth it IMPO.
:beer:


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

here is some more info I found (copy and paste from a google link)

Transmission
Code 020
** Poor Choice for even OE 1.8t power levels **

Transmission Cable vs Hydro Clutch Pedal
Transmission is designed for cable clutch, no reason to attempt running it as hydro.
Mounts
For Mk1s: OE trans in the Mk1, no changes necessary
For Mk2s: OE trans in the Mk2, no changes necessary
For Mk3s: OE trans in the Mk3(4cyl), no changes necessary

Code 02A

Transmission Cable vs Hydro Clutch Pedal
For Hydro Clutch: Use the Corrado 02A pedal cluster with provision for the OE Hydro setup. Also use the firewall reinforcement plate found on the non-ABS Corrado which will support the added clutch MC on the firewall. You must drill new holes in the fire wall for clutch MC and 1 support bracket stud (stud matches to pedal cluster). You might need to remove a stud on the engine bay side of the firewall on most Mk2s to make the support bracket sit flush.
For Cable Clutch: There are OEM parts from the Eurovan which can be used to convert the hydro transmissions to cable. Please see the bottom of the page for instructions. 
Speedo
For Mechanical Speedo - use a Corrado G60 or B3 Passat Speedo Cable.
For VSS/Electric Speedo - use the VSS unit which corrisponds to your cluster.
Mounts
For Mk1s: Requires custom mount. Can be had from VWVortex.com users need_a_vr6 or Patatron.
For Mk2s: Requires OE mounts from Corrado G60 or B3 Passat 16v.
 For Mk3s: Requires OE mounts from Corrado G60 or B3 Passat 16v.

Code 02J

Transmission Cable vs Hydro Clutch Pedal
For Hydro Clutch: Use the Corrado 02A pedal cluster with provision for the OE Hydro setup. Also use the firewall reinforcement plate found on the non-ABS Corrado which will support the added clutch MC on the firewall. You must drill new holes in the fire wall for clutch MC and 1 support bracket stud (stud matches to pedal cluster). You might need to remove a stud on the engine bay side of the firewall on most Mk2s to make the support bracket sit flush.
For Cable Clutch: There are OEM parts from the Eurovan which can be used to convert the hydro transmissions to cable. Please see the bottom of the page for instructions. 
Speedo
For Mechanical Speedo - use a Corrado G60 or B3 Passat Speedo Cable.
For VSS/Electric Speedo - use the VSS unit which corrisponds to your cluster.
Mounts
For Mk1s: Requires custom mount. Can be had from VWVortex.com users need_a_vr6, WRDusa.com and Dan Bubb
For Mk2s:
Using Mk2 OE rear sub frame and cross members:
Front: Mk3 TDI w/ Mk3 VR starter bolts
Rear: 4cyl 02A brackets.
Using Mk3 rear sub frame and cross members:
Front:
Rear: 4cyl 02A brackets.
For Mk3s:

Code 02M

Transmission Cable vs Hydro Clutch Pedal
Possible the cable parts from the 02A/02J will work, anyone verified?
Mounts
Custom mounts are required (case is different than the 02J)

Axles

020 Trans:
No changed needed, you can retain your OE axles.
02A Trans:
Two options, 90mm or 100mm axles.
For 90mm axles, use the axle flanges off the 02O Trans and the OE axles
For 100mm axles, use Scirocco 16v (Mk2 16v Axles do not fit) axles and spindles
02J Trans:
Must use 100mm axles, fitment will be the same as using 100mm axles on the 02A trans. Depending on what motor your 02J comes from you might need new axle flanges. The early TDI and 2.0 engines used 100mm flanges while the all 1.8t and VR6 engine use 108mm flanges.
02J 100mm Axle Flanges: VAG part # 02A 409 355D
02M Trans:
Custom Axles are required. There is no bolt on 100mm axle flange. Axles must be 108mm inner CV and 100mm outer CV.
Search VWVortex, a few people have cut and welded together other axles for correct fitment.
Drive Shaft Shop is said to make them though if you supply the needed dimensions.

Cable Clutch on OE Hydro Transmission

Swapping to a cable clutch is less labor intensive than converting your car to hydro setup, but over all cost is about the same. Some great info on what it takes to convert a OE hydro transmission to cable can be found here, and can be applied to Mk1/2/3 vehicles.

Required Parts:
Parts referenced off this picture here.
Actuator (#10): VAG part # 02B 141 708 A (comes with boot) or 02A 141 708 B
Actuator Boot (#13): VAG part # 02A 141 728
Cable (#6): VAG part # 357 721 335 E
Support Bracket (#9): VAG part # 357 199 356
Places you can buy parts:
1stVWParts.com - online dealer website
Impex, WorldPac Dealer
WRD Conversion Kit
EuroNation Conversion Kit


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

some more info I found: (thank you to Bora Jon)

primary reason for copy and paste is to show everyone how to change the output driveshaft flanges to the 100mm ones so it bolts on mark I driveshafts

2) remove the axles from your output flange, M8 or M10 triple square bits, 6 bolts on each flange. (Bentley manual recommends replacement each use.)

3) Use two axle bolts to assist in removal of the flange. This will give you something to wrench against since there is no resistance on the differential.










4) Use a 16MM wrench to hold the flange, or a screwdriver per the bentley. I found a box end wrench much easier to use. Now use a 6mm Hex Bit to remove the center bolt in the output flange that goes into the differential. (ratchet drive recommended)



















5) The Flange is spring loaded into the transmission case. It will push outwards as you are removing the bolt. Use caution if you are under the car when doing this, if there is still fluid in the transmission it will leak out at this point, so a catch basin is recommended under your work area. The inner section of the flange is splined, so be careful no to try and twist during removal.




























6) Ok, now we are making progress. Look at those bearings...










Next we are going to want to clean off all that gunk and dirt that has accumulated around the seal area, we don't want that floating around in the trans. Use a paper towel, regularly turing to a clean side. (I didn't have this brain wave until I went to pull the seals out, everything is nice and clean in the Bentley)










7) Use a slide hammer with a hook end, or an appropriate seal puller to remove the old seal(s) It makes sense to do both sides if you are already doing one... be careful not to damage the metal insert or aluminum casting of the transmission case if you are on the driver's side of the differential.



















The inner section of the seal is quite hard, and will not want to come out, work at it in several places, and be patient. 

8) Now that we have that pesky leaking seal out, let's get things cleaned up, there will be a small amount of gear oil accumulated where the seal was, clean that out with a CLEAN rag or towel. you want a pristine surface for your new seals to go into. 



















9) Get your new seal, note there are two sides, one has a recess. This is the inner section of the seal, it contains a metal spring inside around the inner section of the seal. Place the new seal into the end of the case.



















You will now use a bearing race/seal installation tool. (VW tool #3106 for 02J or 3305 for 02M) I used one from a common big box auto parts store. Be sure that you are driving the seal in square to the case, if it installs crooked it may not seal properly.



















Drive the seal fully into the recess being careful not to damage the case. 

10) Now that your seal is installed you will need to add some grease to the seal. There is a v-groove in the inside of the seal that goes against the output flange. Fill this with a high quality grease, I use synthetic for water resistance and longevity. do not overfill the seal, just enough to make good contact with the flange.










Use care not to get grease inside of the seal/transmission case.










Clean up any excess grease with a clean rag/towel.

11) You're almost done! reinstall the flange in the case, gently seat the spline of the flange into the differential. Here's the tricky part, you will need to push the flange in to compress the spring before the bolt will be able to catch in the differential. 

once you have gotten the bolt started, use your bolts and wrench to tighten the bolt, and torque to 18 ft-lbs (25Nm). 










marvel at your work! no more leaky seals here. 










Installation is reverse of removal for axles, when installing the bolts, use a cross pattern like wheel lugs, torque to 52 ft-lbs (70Nm) for M10 fasteners or 30 ft-lbs (40Nm) for M8 fasteners. (again the Bentley recommends replacement after each use)

Be sure to top off your transmission using the appropriate GL4 VW approved fluid as specified in your owner's manual.


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## BoostedOne (Mar 30, 2003)

35i 2000 said:


> First,<p>Thank you for looking at my thread<p>
> 
> I am putting this together for all those that want to do a 02A/02J swap into a Mark I Golf/Cabby/Caddy/Jetta
> 
> ...


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

thanks for all the help boostedone!

this thread is turning out to be awesome!


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

some more useful information I've recently learned

as seen here 

http://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/darkside-g60-flywheel-and-sachs-vr6-clutch-kit.html


http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=764


using a VR6 clutch and Pressure Plate is ideal and fits right onto the G60 flywheel, this really seems like the ideal way to do this


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## dalz (May 25, 2005)

Cool thread great info here!
On my O2A mk1 conversion I used the euro van cable. 
I believe in an old thread there was info about using a civic adjustable cable form an 80's CRX.
Anyone know the actual part number? I have a photo from a car that has it but this number meant nothing when I talked to Honda.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

if you search "just did the VR6 clutch/G60 flywheel combo!" in the "TDI and Diesel Forum" you will see that there are lots of people that have used this set up ( VR6 pressure plate + VR6 clutch + G60 flywheel) on their 5spd tdi's 

great way to do a upgrade and keep costs down


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

Speedo cable info I found from another thread copy and paste 

Just did this in my 83 sourced a g60 cable and carefully cut the clip on end off g60 cable and carefully grafted the ferule (screw in end) onto the g60 cable , needle bounces a bit under 30 kph but it works great above those speeds. 

http://www.speedometerplus.com/
apparently these guys will make one for you


Not sure it'll work, but pretty neat. Pricey, too.

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd886.htm


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

more info added on how to bolt the clutch master cyl... you can use a B3 B4 Corrado Non ABS bracket


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

something really useful I found



vdubspeed said:


> So I rocked the Honda/eurovan setup for about 1 month and honestly...it's a leg workout. Not that it didn't work...but when I jumped in my 16vT with a Spec Stage 3 clutch setup and it was WAY easier to operate...I knew I wanted something different.<p>That said, my donor car was the same Corrado that my transmission came from. I use all 1991 G60 parts. <p>When I made mysetup I wanted to do it a little differently than funksoulkitty and eurospeed though. Both of their designs bolt the clutch master cylinder to the firewall and I really didn't want to do that(strength being the reason)<p>I also wanted something somewhat factory...you know...like a bracket. Here's what I came up with.<p>I took the Corrado bracket that would have mounted to the firewall and sawzalled off the part that held the clutch master cylinder.<br><IMG SRC="http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/hydroclutch001.jpg" BORDER="0"><p>Then I grinded it down to match a mk1 brake booster bracket and like so:<br><IMG SRC="http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/hydroclutch002.jpg" BORDER="0"><p>Note - there is a VERY important measurement here. The distance from the master cylinder hole to the other large hole is very critical. It plays a part in the future. If it's to close, when you made the clutch pedal you will hit the steering knucke. The distance from the left master cylinder stud is 1.5 inches to the right bolt hole on the rabbit bracket(center to center). If I did this again I would have made it two inches because I hit a little snag with my steering knuckle later down the line.<p>Tack it up:<br><IMG SRC="http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/hydroclutch003.jpg" BORDER="0"><p>Here's the behind pic. You can see here that I had to cut off a stud from the factory Corrado bracket so it would sit flush with the rabbit firewall:<br><IMG SRC="http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/hydroclutch004.jpg" BORDER="0"><p>To make the pedal I blatantly copied funksoulkitty and eurospeed. Just a quick trip to Lowe's Motorsports for some mild steel and bam...you got this:<br><IMG SRC="http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/hydroclutch007.jpg" BORDER="0"><br><IMG SRC="http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/hydroclutch008.jpg" BORDER="0"><p>I went on to drill a 3/8 inch hold install a stud and weld it up. <p>For a little more strength I tossed in this piece of steel and welded it up. Hit with some cheapo rustoleum and got this:<br><IMG SRC="http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/hydroclutch011.jpg" BORDER="0"><p>Now it was time for the install. Tossed EVERYTHING back in(fail there...should have waited). Had the wife help me bleed the system and ran out of fluid. Piss. Got some more fluid and continued the bleeding. Damn...Houston...we have a problem. because of the geometry I was not getting enough pedal action to fully disengage the clutch. Funksoulkitty ran into this exact same problem. Again...using her idea. I went back to the drawing board and angled the master cylinder down. You cannot simply lower the mounting point on the clutch pedal or you will bind!<p>While it was installed on Round 1 I also noticed VERY serious firewall flexing when my wife was pushing the clutch pedal in. Again I copied eurospeed's idea but running a little outrigger and bolting up to the factory framerail.<p>To angle the master cylinder all I did was cut around where it was except for the top and bent the piece in. Once it looked somewhat straight I welded it up. After a little paint the finished product looked like this:<br><IMG SRC="http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/hydroclutch013.jpg" BORDER="0"><br><IMG SRC="http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/hydroclutch014.jpg" BORDER="0"><p>After reangling the mastercylinder I had to redo my clutch pedal but it was really nothing special to look at. Just remember to space out your clutch master cylinder enough so you don't bind up on the knuckle.<p>Once everything looked good I bolted it all up and snapped this beauty:<br><IMG SRC="http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/hydroclutch017.jpg" BORDER="0"><p>Oh yeah..dig the resevoir which is some VW beetle brake resevoir from an unknown year. One day when I hit baller status I'll get a brake resevoir which will have a line dedicated to the clutch master cylinder. Until this..zipties will do <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/biggrin_upper.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>Initial test drive was AWESOME. I love the way it feels and how fast I can actuate the clutch from full disenage to engage. Even the wife approved. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/wink.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>Anyone wanna buy my old setup now <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/tongue.gif" BORDER="0"> <br><IMG SRC="http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/hydroclutch018.jpg" BORDER="0"><p>Thanks for viewing,<p>Jason<br><BR><BR>
> <i>Modified by vdubspeed at 8:44 PM 10-4-2009</i>


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

after I shared the post last night... I was thinking there must be other ways to mount the clutch master cylinder, clearly others may have thought of something...


here are some pics that I found in my browsing to help spawn some creativity... this is definitely a neat approach for all those that love the shaved bay look


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## jetta coupe (Mar 30, 2009)

Saw those pics last night myself. Pretty slick. I really didn't want the cable conv.

Sent from my Event using Tapatalk


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

jetta coupe said:


> Saw those pics last night myself. Pretty slick. I really didn't want the cable conv.
> 
> Sent from my Event using Tapatalk


hey mate 

thanks for checking out my thread! 

From everything I've read, virtually everyone recommends to shy away from the cable conversion, the clutch master and clutch slave route are the way to go it seems


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## jetta coupe (Mar 30, 2009)

35i 2000 said:


> hey mate
> 
> thanks for checking out my thread!
> 
> From everything I've read, virtually everyone recommends to shy away from the cable conversion, the clutch master and clutch slave route are the way to go it seems


Ive been thinking hard over the last couple months, how to mount the hydraulic parts. Saw one setup that was similar, just alot more work and fabrication. I was just about set on the cable conv, and came across those pics. Made my mind up right then. Clean, simple, easy to fab up, and fits tight within the column. Awesome work!

Sent from my Event using Tapatalk


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

jetta coupe said:


> Ive been thinking hard over the last couple months, how to mount the hydraulic parts. Saw one setup that was similar, just alot more work and fabrication. I was just about set on the cable conv, and came across those pics. Made my mind up right then. Clean, simple, easy to fab up, and fits tight within the column. Awesome work!
> 
> Sent from my Event using Tapatalk


i'm happy to share what I learn 

post pics in this thread when you start to assemble so others can learn too


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

the corrado abs MC bracket has three holes (triangle) and the corrado non-abs MC has four holes (square) The square peg in a triangle hole approach just isn't worth the hassle.

B4 VR6 abs brackets have 4 holes just like the non-abs brackets




ABS setup for reference (see bolt locations)




and a really nice of the entire set up (bracket, clutch master, clutch slave) there is a simular one in the B3 bentley manual


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

was able to pick up a bracket from SEM Motorsports in Toronto Ontario, amazing guys!

Thanks Tom!

http://www.semmotorsports.com/


here is some info, from all i've read I do NOT recommend this


If so then you are looking for the eurovan setup<p> <IMG SRC="http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/4796/cableclutch.png" BORDER="0"> <p> <IMG SRC="http://www.vwenthusiast.com/b-slider/VR_Swap/CableClutch/cable_clutch1.jpg" BORDER="0"> <p> <IMG SRC="http://myweb.whitman.syr.edu/srotblat/swap/images/02a_clutch.jpg" BORDER="0"> <p> * Actuator (#10): VAG part # 02B 141 708 A (comes with boot) or 02A 141 708 B<br> * Actuator Boot (#13): VAG part # 02A 141 728<br> * Cable (#6): VAG part # 357 721 335 E<br> * Support Bracket (#9): VAG part # 357 199 356<p># Places you can buy parts:<p> * 1stVWParts.com - online dealer website<br> * Impex, WorldPac Dealer<br> * WRD Conversion Kit<br> * EuroNation Conversion Kit<p>


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

firewall in a B3/Corrado/B4

notice how the firewall is NOT flat, I feel this may a cause of concern for those that try and use the Non ABS Bracket from a B3/B4/Corrado in a Mark I ...perhaps the custom made bracket above will be the way to go


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

how it all bolts together in a B3/Corrado/ B4


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

i found the actuator here


http://www.worldimpex.com/item_detail.html?sku=126798

not cheap at $190


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

more info added


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

more info!!


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## George (Jul 3, 2001)

Nice thread so far!


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

Thanks mate!

I have purchased a genuine VW mechanical clutch actuator for a 24v Eurovan and a genuine VW Eurovan clutch cable 

Will post detailed pics of both when thy come


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## CasuallyWreckless (Aug 27, 2007)

opcorn:


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## red16vdub (Aug 21, 2009)

Great read and info fellas :thumbup::thumbup:


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

going back to axle flanges. 02A used almost exclusively press-fit flanges, where 02J used all bolt-on flanges. They ARE NOT interchangeable. The flanges must match the diff carrier, or you are in for a world of hurt.

Also while doing all this work, invest in a reinforced clutch fork, ESPECIALLY if you are using the VR6 setup. They have a tendency to bend or crack over time.

see http://www.flipsidecustoms.com/?page_id=261&shopp_pid=3, it's the best one out there.


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## CasuallyWreckless (Aug 27, 2007)

^ on that note most o2j's use a 108mm flange... The flange itself its interchangeable with the 100mm o2j trans cups. My buddy just went through the headache of finding them


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

that was covered earlier, but a good note none-the-less. It's the 1.8T's and Vr6 engines that had the 108's, the 100's came on TDi's and 2.0's


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

rstolz said:


> that was covered earlier, but a good note none-the-less. It's the 1.8T's and Vr6 engines that had the 108's, the 100's came on TDi's and 2.0's


Page 2! my thread is making good ground here!

I have done some investigation into doing an oil change, you figure you have spent so much money so far, $50 for oil is cheap insurance 

copy and paste phrases and lines from other good threads

*75W-90 GL-4 oil *is what you want


Some stick with the OE VW oil. VW actually lists the gear oil as a lifetime product, meaning it should never need changed. In my opinion, that speaks for itself. It must be pretty good oil if they trust it to never have to be changed.


The big key is the GL-4. You need that for the brass parts in the trans. A GL-5 will eat away at them.

Most folks have settled that Penzoil Sycromesh is about as good as it gets for any VW/Audi transverse application. GM and AC/Delco Syncromesh are produced by penzoil, so those are the same.

Beyond that you're getting into individual preference. Royal Purple, Amsoil, MT Redline, OEM are all good as well, but offer slightly different characteristics.


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

thanks for quoting me :thumbup:


now my turn:


> Some stick with the OE VW oil. VW actually lists the gear oil as a lifetime product, meaning it should never need changed.


"lifetime" is a marketing ploy. Who knows what lifetime means? The fluid might last a lifetime in a vial, but in use it does break down and get contaminated.

Generally fluid is recommended to be flushed between 50-80k. yes, it can last longer. The trans cases aren't sealed as well as you might think, and moisture will seep in over time. Additionally, syncros and bearings wear out over time and shed brass filings. those filings gunk up the fluid. so while the fluid might be ok, it gets dirty and gunky with contaminants.


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## GEE-BEE RACING (Apr 12, 2014)

*02 a kit*

I purchased this and a engine mount

http://www.epytec.de/modelle/golf-c...-02a-getriebe-motorhalter-komplett-set?c=1305

doing a 3:16 Ring and Pinon with a .658 fifth gear


http://www.mts-motorsport.com/epage...ectPath=/Shops/61752271/Products/"GEACST 009"

http://shopping.boraparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=68

AHU TDI

This Turbo
http://www.darksidedevelopments.co....56vk-turbocharger-with-vacuum-conversion.html

this exhaust
http://www.darksidedevelopments.co....nifold-for-1-9-tdi-with-gtb-turbocharger.html


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## ImSpecialerThanU (Sep 25, 2007)

I will be picking up an 02A along with the 16 valve it was attached to. I have been reading and trying to find answers but come up empty. I will be getting the transmission the shift box and cables. I dont think he has the pedals or any thing else. I was looking into doing the cable conversion but reading posts here and else where have led to its not worth it as the feel of the clutch isnt so good. So my question is since I will probably need the slave cylinder and master for clutch with the line also the booster bracket and a pedal cluster. What cars are compitable with getting the remainder of the parts I will need to go hydro? And am I missing anything not listed? TIA


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

ImSpecialerThanU said:


> I will be picking up an 02A along with the 16 valve it was attached to. I have been reading and trying to find answers but come up empty. I will be getting the transmission the shift box and cables. I dont think he has the pedals or any thing else. I was looking into doing the cable conversion but reading posts here and else where have led to its not worth it as the feel of the clutch isnt so good. So my question is since I will probably need the slave cylinder and master for clutch with the line also the booster bracket and a pedal cluster. What cars are compitable with getting the remainder of the parts I will need to go hydro? And am I missing anything not listed? TIA


hey mate! sorry for the late response! A good friend of mine (greyjetta) did a 16vT build in a Mark II Jetta coupe with a stage 2 pressure plate and he used the eurovan cable conversion, he let me try it out on the weekend, its not bad at all, its totally drivable, and that's a stage 2!! a stock G60 or VR pressure plate will be comparable to a 020 for sure


here is one part that my research has brought up, when using 02J shift tower it may interfere withe the Mark I mount, see the reverse plug below








[/QUOTE]


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

rstolz said:


> thanks for quoting me :thumbup:
> 
> 
> now my turn:
> ...


thanks mate! 

you mate a great point *The trans cases aren't sealed as well as you might think, moisture will seep in over time, shed brass filings. those filings gunk up the fluid*


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

some more good info (copy paste from other threads) on how to remove the 02a/02j gear selector

1.) There are two 13MM bolts holding the selector tower down on the transmission. Removing the side to side linkage bracket will aid in making this easier, so remove that. Then remove the (2) 13mm bolts. It can be hard to pull straight up, if you can get a long flat head screw driver and give the lip a tap from the bottom. And it should pop up.










2.) 02A on the left, 02J on the right.


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

Speedometer cable 

A lot of people seem to recommend these guys

http://www.speedometerplus.com


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

I spoke to the owner at http://www.speedometerplus.com

and have ordered a 'threaded' style speedo cable for an early cluster (pre 1980 rabbit dash uses a thread on connection to the cluster, not clip on like the later rabbits, cabriolets, jetta, caddy)

he asked me exactly what I need and the final cost was $60, will report back when it comes in, if its the right style/fit, i'm very confidant it will work great


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