# Strut Mount & Bearing Comparison and Replacement Necessity



## Nethers (Dec 2, 2013)

I'm replacing my CC coilovers with the Solowerks S1's, and was wondering opinions on the following replacement mount and bearing setups:

Option 1: Meyle $88.37 (esetuning http://www.esetuning.com/ESE-Tuning-...412331b-kt.htm)
- (2) FEQ Strut Mount (part# 1K0 412 331B)
- (2) Meyle Strut Bearing (part# 6N0 412 249C)

Option 2: 034motorsports $125 (eurocollective http://www.eurocollective.com/shop/i...d=25663&page=3)
- (2) Solo Werks 034 Density Uppers Strut Mounts
- (2) OE Meyle Strut Bearings (part # L3035-186316

Option 3: $149 (ecs tuning http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...ion/ES2702636/)
- 2 Strut Mounts
- 2 Strut Bearings
- 2 Axle Bolt (24mm/12-point)
- 2 Strut Pinch Bolts
- 2 Strut Nuts
- 2 Dust Boots
- 6 Strut Mount Bolts
- Spindle Housing Spreader
- M14 12 Point Socket for Axle Bolt

Lastly, how necessary is replacing the rear setup?

Option 1: $59.95 (ecstuning http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...ion/ES2702639/)
- Upper shock mounts
- Shock mount hardware
- Lower shock retaining bolts


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## snobrdrdan (Sep 10, 2008)

You need the 034 mounts with the Solowerks coilovers (to avoid noises)

If you have some miles on your car....you'll probably want new rear mounts too. Your call though


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## flipflp (Dec 10, 2012)

snobrdrdan said:


> You need the 034 mounts with the Solowerks coilovers (to avoid noises)
> 
> If you have some miles on your car....you'll probably want new rear mounts too. Your call though


^^^ This x100. Replace it all, you will not regret it. I didn't swap my rear mounts and can hear a bit of something, only another $60 tacked on to the bill for silence and peace of mind.

Edit: No matter what you go with you will need the axle spreader and the M14 triple square bit. You will also need the 21/22MM top strut bolt tool, or a selection of metric box offset wrenches. Also a pair of spring compressors if you plan on getting the front struts out without pulling the axles. If none of that makes sense I can write up a play by play. I haven't installed as many suspensions as Dan but I've got my stripes.


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## Nunya_Binnez (Dec 19, 2012)

flipflp said:


> ...I can write up a play by play.


Please do. It'd make a good addition to the DIY thread.


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## flipflp (Dec 10, 2012)

Nunya_Binnez said:


> Please do. It'd make a good addition to the DIY thread.


Slow day at work with the boss gone, I've got time for that!

*Legal Warning: *I am an enthusiast mechanic with almost 15 years of experience in various automotive systems and brands. I do not work for VW, I am not ASE certified, and I never told you to wear sandals and socks together. This is only a guide! YMMV, etc. If anything in this guide strikes you as wrong, DONT DO IT! If you feel that I'm doing something wrong or missed a step let me know. This procedure works for me without a hiccup, so I'm sharing it.

*Front Suspension Removal – *

1.	Jack up car and put jack stands under the side jack points. Chalk wheels that are still on the ground.
2.	Remove front wheels
3.	Disconnect Sway Bar links on both sides (either just the top nut removed or you can take them out totally). You can remove one at a time, but I’ve found it gives a bit more wiggle room having the sway bar fully disconnected
4.	Unclip the ABS sensor wire and move to the side
5.	Undo the three nuts on the ball joint (17mm I believe) and pull lower control arm down. Also rotate the ball joint so that it won’t slot back into the control arm while you are working

*REMOVING FACTORY (non-coilover) SUSPENSION* –
6.	Install Strut Spring Compressors on springs to effectively shorten the strut assembly. This is the only way to remove or install strut type suspension without removing the large axle bolt (which would then need to be replaced). Most home mechanics don’t have the tools (or patience) to remove the axle, though it is the factory method. Coilovers don’t need this for removal because of shortened shock bodies and adjustable spring preload/perches.

7.	Using your 14mm Triple Square and 18mm wrench, remove the strut pinch bolt from the hub/spindle
8.	Using your strut spreader tool in the gap of the hub, expand the hub and start to pull the hub down off the strut. This is easier done with the top mount left installed as you might need to wrestle the assembly to get it loose. *NOTE:* If your spreader tool is in the wrong spot it might contact the tab on the strut making it stuck, and you will just need to move it to another spot. This note also applies to the installation.
9.	Once the strut has been removed from the hub, you can unbolt the 3 – 13mm upper strut mount bolts and remove the strut and spring assembly.
10.	Repeat on other side

*Front Suspension Installation* –

1.	Assemble front strut assembly (strut, spring, bumpstop and boot if applicable, and strut mount/bearing using the 21/22mm strut tool or offset box wrench. Be sure to use an allen key to hold the strut rod in place to avoid damage to the strut while tightening. Do not use an impact gun. Make sure the arrows on the strut top are pointing to the front and rear of the car, this will make finding the holes easier later.

*If you are installing non-coilover suspension, use strut spring compressors to aid in assembly and leave them installed on the coils for installation. TIP: Make sure however you orient the spring compressors that you will be able to fit the strut assembly in the car, as well as remove the compressors once it’s in place. *

2.	Position strut or coilover assembly in the strut tower with the bottom of the strut placed in the hub. At this point you can start spreading the hub and wiggling the strut in place with or without bolting the strut top to the car. Sometimes I prefer to have the strut stable and use a jack to work the hub up on to it. With strut spreaders on the coils you might need more space so bolting the strut mount is not a good idea.
3.	Once the strut is completely bottomed in the hub (there is a lip you can feel that the strut needs to bottom against) you can set aside your spreader tool and install the pinch bolt with your 14MM triple square tool. The spec for this bolt is 52 ft lbs +90° (Torque to 52 ft lbs and then turn wrench handle 90° further).
4.	Reinstall the ball joint into the lower control arm and tighten (I don’t have the torque spec for this, I tightened to about 50 ft lbs)
5.	If you haven’t already, install the 3 strut mount bolts (11 ft lbs +90°), reinstall the sway bar end link (48 ft lbs), and re-clip the ABS cable
6.	Check all of your suspension bolt/nut torques, and then reinstall wheels tightening the lug bolts to 88 ft lbs in a star pattern.
7.	Repeat for other side
8.	Remove jack stands, set car on the ground and remove wheel chalks.

*Rear Suspension Removal –*

1.	Jack up car and put jack stands under side jack points. Chalk wheels that are still on the ground.
2.	Remove rear wheels
3.	Place your hydraulic jack underneath the rear spring and compress SLIGHTLY
4.	Remove the lower hub bolt that connects the rear control arm (19mm bolt/nut ??) and slowly lower the control arm freeing the coil spring
5.	Remove 2 bolts from upper shock mount (14mm?) and lower shock bolt (17mm??) from the hub and remove shock
6.	Repeat for other side

*Rear Suspension Installation –* 

This is mostly the reverse of installation, with one note for coilover installs. Most coilovers will give you installation regarding the rear spring adjuster. TYPICALLY (not always) this adjuster goes on top of the spring and replaces the upper rubber spring isolator, while the spring uses the stock isolator in the control arm. Please check the manual if you are not sure.

1.	Following the suspension manufacturer’s recommendation for spring adjusters/isolators, place the spring in the lower control arm. If the spring uses the factory lower isolator, be sure to orient the spring properly in the isolator. The spring will “stop” against a bump in the rubber.
2.	Using a jack, compress the spring slightly to allow the lower control arm to line up with the rear hub. This can be a bit difficult; you might need to get a screw driver to center the bushing to allow the bolt to fit through better. Tighten the bolt/nut to 66 ft lbs +90°
3.	Install rear shock mount on to the new shock, torque shock nut to 33 ft lbs. Use pliers or otherwise to keep shock rod from spinning to avoid damage.
4.	Install the shock, torque the upper shock mount bolts to 36 ft lbs +45°, and the shock to rear hub bolt to 133 ft lbs.
5.	Check all of your suspension bolt/nut torques, and then reinstall wheels tightening the lug bolts to 88 ft lbs in a star pattern.
6.	Repeat for other side
7.	Remove jack stands, set car on the ground and remove wheel chalks.

*Please recheck your lug bolt torque after the first 25 miles. That's my job so I have to say it!*


*NOTE:* After you install new suspension, it will need to settle before ride height adjustments can be accurately made or a proper alignment can be done (IMHO). Wait approximately 200-300 miles before getting an alignment if possible, otherwise the settling can cause settings to change. Nothing should be much more off than before you started, considering your alignment was within specs before. Either way, GET AN ALIGNMENT.

Also I "borrowed" this image from another forum for the torque specs:


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## snobrdrdan (Sep 10, 2008)

*Good pics in post #171 & 172:*
http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37480&page=9





If you can't get the strut out using the LCA removal option & don't want to remove the axle...here's my other method:

An easy way is to have the front end on jack stands (under the rear lower control arm mount is a good location):









Undo the 18mm nuts for the swaybar link end from the strut (do both sides!!).

Remove the 18mm nut & M14 bolt for the strut/spindle.

Spray some lube at the base of the strut/spindle.

Insert strut spreader bit.

Give a nice kick to the hub to break the strut loose from the spindle:


Use a jack & a 2x4" and "lift" the strut up out of the spindle. You have to go in at an angle to avoid the jack hitting the brake dust shield!



Rotate/move the hub forward slightly & then lower the strut (so it clears the spindle/hub now). 



Remove the 3x 13mm bolts holding the strut to the tower & it's out.


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## Nethers (Dec 2, 2013)

You guys are awesome. I learned I need a way too detailed video showing every step because I'm no mechanic! The steps looked great, but I found myself having to google each part. I mean, I don't even know what chalk wheels on the ground means.


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## Austiiin (Jul 1, 2011)

I'm also about to install some coilovers, but I'm going with ST coilovers, do I also need to get new strut mounts/bearings (09 CC 2.0t Sport w/ +60k miles)? If so, does it matter which brand I go with? The most popular options seem to be KYB, Meyle, and 034 motorsports. They are all roughly the same amount of $ but I don't know which one I should purchase 

Any insight would be appreciated!


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## snobrdrdan (Sep 10, 2008)

Austiiin said:


> I'm also about to install some coilovers, but I'm going with ST coilovers, do I also need to get new strut mounts/bearings (09 CC 2.0t Sport w/ +60k miles)? If so, does it matter which brand I go with? The most popular options seem to be KYB, Meyle, and 034 motorsports. They are all roughly the same amount of $ but I don't know which one I should purchase
> 
> Any insight would be appreciated!


Yes, get new mounts & bearings. With the ST's, you can run whichever ones without issues/noise.
And that way you can assemble your ST coilover (front) struts ahead of time. Then pull the stock struts out & put the new ST's in....it will make your life A LOT easier (as opposed to disassembling the stock struts to swap them over, but it's time for new ones anyways)


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## flipflp (Dec 10, 2012)

@snobrdrdan I have to say I have never seen the 2x4 spring compressor method. That looks MUCH easier than what I've gone through wrestling spring compressors, though it looks like there is a bit more risk involved. Thanks for sharing your methods!

@Austiiin From experience of having ST Coilovers, my brand new Mahle strut tops got a nasty low speed howl after only a few thousand miles. Do yourself a favor and just get the 034s from the start.


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## Austiiin (Jul 1, 2011)

@flipflop and @snobrdbrnd, I appreciate your feedback! Going to follow your suggestions - thanks!


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## snobrdrdan (Sep 10, 2008)

flipflp said:


> @snobrdrdan I have to say I have never seen the 2x4 spring compressor method. That looks MUCH easier than what I've gone through wrestling spring compressors, though it looks like there is a bit more risk involved. Thanks for sharing your methods!


Yeah that's kind of a method I came up with, since on the B7 Passat the control arm setup is TOTALLY different and I was unable to move it down & out of the way (like on the CC).
And spring compressors wouldn't fit in the strut tower very nicely either.

So I just lifted it out, essentially.
The strut can't/won't go anywhere though since the 3 bolts are still holding the strut to the car still. Just do it slowly and make sure the wood stays under the flat spot of the spring perch.

I use this method all the time now....since it keeps everything aligned on the bottom and there's less/almost no risk of the axle coming out of the transmission (it can happen the other way).


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## flipflp (Dec 10, 2012)

snobrdrdan said:


> Yeah that's kind of a method I came up with, since on the B7 Passat the control arm setup is TOTALLY different and I was unable to move it down & out of the way (like on the CC).
> And spring compressors wouldn't fit in the strut tower very nicely either.
> 
> So I just lifted it out, essentially.
> ...


I will definitely use this method next time and see how it works for me, just hopefully not on my car. I've come to a happy place with my Eibach/STR.Ts, but I do have a friend with 2 MK6s that I'm now a bit more interested to help out if he does suspension!


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## siili (May 12, 2013)

Good to find this thread.... I'll be doing that way to do the front. it's been loong time ago I done struts last time. hope it will be nice and breeze. I have new mounts and bearing already mounted and ready to put in.


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## siili (May 12, 2013)

I used metal pipe to do it and yes it was lot easier even easier than rear since only needs 3 sockets to do.


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