# Quantum Project.



## Wereweazle (Oct 8, 2008)

Hello everyone, 

I'm sure I've posted on here before, but it's been a very long time and I was never a common presence. At the moment I have no car, just a motorcycle for transportation. My first car was a 1987 B2 that my parents bought new and our family has kept ever since. Unfortunately, this means my brother - who apparently despised the car - drove it for about five years. I'd love to get this back on the road and have been having a strange time with the car over the past few years now. I'll have it running for a few months (a few times it's only been a few days...) before something else goes wrong. 

My major problem at the moment that is keeping it off the road is some transmission trouble. I can put the car in third and fourth gear. Obviously this requires only a forward or backward movement on the shifter. However, even if I move the shifter to the left or right and engage a gear, only 3rd and 4th gears are selected. It's not that the other gears WON'T select, it's that no matter which horizontal position I have the shifter in 3rd and 4th ARE selected by moving forward or backward. A friend of my thought maybe the shifter forks broke, but I can't really see that being a likely occurrence. I don't know how the shift linkage is set up on these cars, but is there anything I should look out for that could be a likely cause? 

Other than the transmission bit there are a few other minor inconveniences I'll get sorted out with time. Right now it's having trouble starting, but it has been stored in a barn for a few months and this could be due to cold, bad gas, numerous things. It seems to be leaking brake fluid from around the brake booster so I'll probably replace that. Awhile back my master cylinder gave out and the car would engage first gear sitting at a stoplight even if I had the clutch depressed to the floor. Replacing the master cylinder on the clutch seemed to fix that, but since it's been sitting the pedal seems to take a few pumps to get it to return all the way. When I did start it and drive it down the road about a month ago it seemed to drive well. However, the temperature light was blinking from the second it started to the second I shut off the engine. I've had trouble with the thermostat sticking in the past, so maybe it's this again. I did notice the engine temps gradually climbed as I drove and as I went to shut it off it seemed hotter than what I remember it running. 

Sorry for the novel I wrote, just thought I'd get all I can out of the way. Any thoughts or ideas you guys have on any of this will be greatly appreciated. I'd love to help out in any way I can, but being 19 and pretty new to Volkswagens in general I'm not sure what I'll be able to do. 

Thanks again!


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## Wereweazle (Oct 8, 2008)

Ok well... Just an update so anyone feel free to chime in... 

I fixed the shift linkage. It appears a crossmember leading off the linkage over to the transmission and then bolts down on top of the transmission to provide a leverage point (I'm assuming) came loose. So I just put the bolt back in the hole, tightened it down, and everything seems to be running fine for now...

However, driving it back from the barn it had been sitting in to my house (about a 50 minute drive), I stopped to check the tire pressure and realized the rear passenger side wheel was extremely hot. Apparently my caliper had been sticking the whole drive. :banghead:

So, I recently pulled the caliper off and am getting it and the piston cleaned at a shop today and have a new seal kit on order that should come in tomorrow. Hopefully I can put it back on, do a full bleed, and everything will be fine.

After that I plan to change the oil and thought about doing a radiator flush because it was running a bit hot on the drive home. It normally runs at about 3/4 of the temp gauge all the time, but it slowly crept up during my drive and I believe I say the temp warning light blink once or twice at a stop sign within a mile of home. However, a few years ago I had a radiator hose blow and a shop took care of it, so I assume it should have pretty new radiator fluid? Is there anything else I can do to get the running temp down?

After all that I plan on focusing on getting the e-brake working. Right now it has uneven tension due to the driver's side cable having more slack than the passenger side. This is leading up to where they hook onto that U-shaped hook that attaches to the level. The slack in the driver's side is due to the plastic retaining clip about halfway down the line being missing. My idea was to simply remove the retaining clip from the passenger's side as well and then tightening up the slack at the U-hook. Does anyone forsee any problems with this method? Not the best fix, but I have a feeling it would be nearly impossible to find a replacement plastic clip for the e-brake.

Thanks again for reading through this. I had about 240 views from my first post so I assume some of you might've read the whole thing...


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## dasherinoz (May 19, 2011)

You should change your radiator fluid at least once a year  Also flush at least once a year. How old is the radiator? Are the fins still straight? Do you still have the whole shroud in place? Check all your hoses and clamps too, if there's any swelling or leaks it will cause issues. And make sure your water pump is still turning freely. 

Pix of your car would be great!  I just wrecked a 1984 B2 sedan because no one wanted it, it was a South African import as 2nd Gen VWs weren't sold in Australia.


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## Wereweazle (Oct 8, 2008)

Ha, thanks for replying!

I finally got the car back on the road today after struggling with Advanced Auto to get the right caliper in for three weeks. :banghead:

It seems to not be running as hot, but still hotter than I'd prefer. Must've chilled out a bit now that it's stretched its legs. The radiator is the original from the car, never serviced as far as I know... I plan on flushing it as soon as possible and I'll check the hoses and other things like you said. I tried keeping the cardboard shroud in place as long as possible, but last year it finally just disintegrated to the point of having it there wouldn't work any longer. I hoping an oil change and flush will clear up most of my problems. 

A few things I really want to get fixed soon are: my driver's door window motor. Does anyone know where a replacement one could be found? There's a boot that goes over the shift linkage where it exits the firewall and mine is ripped. It creates a lot of road noise in the cabin. I'd like to get this fixed as it's very annoying. Other than that I think I'm set.

Here are some pictures I just took the other day:

http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/ab158/Wereweazle/2011-05-06093133.jpg?t=1306025717
http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/ab158/Wereweazle/2011-05-06093147.jpg?t=1306025716
http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/ab158/Wereweazle/2011-05-06093314.jpg?t=1306025710
http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/ab158/Wereweazle/2011-05-06093325.jpg?t=1306025712
http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/ab158/Wereweazle/2011-05-06093202.jpg?t=1306025714


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## dasherinoz (May 19, 2011)

I love red cars! Wow, yours has the same nose as the B2 we had, except ours had clear indicators not orange ones. But yours is in way better condition than the one we had, he was very very tired and neglected.

Grab some radiator flush and do several cleanouts. (I used to work for a radiator co.) May not hurt to replace all your hoses too, if they're all aging and getting dry. My car is missing its shrouding but I'm going to make some up using some alloy sheet; I think it will make a difference in our hot summers here. 

It may be the core is too old and gunked to run coolly any more. But it's not hard to locate a replacement core, just try Ebay  Or your local radiator shop. 

Also - always run coolant, not straight water! I cannot emphasise this enough.

Check for leaks around your master cylinder too, everything's looking wet there, is that brake fluid leaking? 

Damn the B2 I wrecked had all manual windows. Have you had a look at Mk 3 Rabbits? Have a wander of your local wrecking yard, look in later Audis too. You might find something that suits. Otherwise there is a mob in Germany who stock NOS VAG parts, they might have the boot. You need to locate the part no and shoot them an email and ask. They ship really quickly too.


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## Wereweazle (Oct 8, 2008)

You, sir, are an absolute peach. And yes, brake fluid is definitely leaking from the seal between the brake master cylinder and booster. I thought I mentioned that earlier, but it may have been another forum. I plan on getting a seal kit for the master cylinder and replacing the clutch slave once I have the funds. As for the radiator, thank you for the tips. I'll do everything my wallet allows. I have noticed most of the hoses still seem in decent shape except for the one at the very bottom. This one feels spongy and gives a "sucking" noise almost like when you suck up water in an eyedropper when you squeeze the hose. I assume this means there's air in the hose and maybe it's not functioning properly? 

Thanks for the compliments. This car sat for eight years before my brother started driving and beat the living hell out of it. Every dent, ding, or broken part you see if from his hatred of the car. Over the past three years I've tried to slowly bring it up to par, but it seems to be more of a constant struggle to keep more things from breaking that actually being able to improve it overall. 

Do you have any experience with shift boots? My original leather one was ripped when I got the car and I eventually just removed it so it would stop falling down and getting caught in the linkage. If I can just buy a universal one somewhere and make it fit, that would be great. I don't care whether it's rubber or leather, I just want something to cover up and protect the linkage. It would also help cut down on that road noise I mentioned.

Let me know if you notice a difference with your new shroud. I may try and fabricate something myself if you do. All the original bolt and holder points are still intact. Whatever material the original was made of just disintegrated away over time.


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## dasherinoz (May 19, 2011)

We're now in winter so it's going to be several months before I notice any heating issues  I know, the shrouds are basically glorified cardboard. I was amazed to see it was pretty much intact in the B2. 

I found some universal shift boots on Ebay UK that fit! They aren't greatest thing in the world (basically vinyl) but if your boot is dead then it's something right? Otherwise, know anyone with a sewing machine? 

Definitely swap out the bottom hose, sounds like it might have a hole or is developing a crack. I had to replace the whole cooling system in my B1 because the previous owner had run only water in it and drove it into the ground. :banghead: All the hoses sounded like a handful of cornflakes being crushed; they were coated in orange rust. Yucko  And the water pump shroud had turned to swiss cheese because they'd put some radiator stop leaks goo in the system. Never ever use that garbage, it will only kill your cooling system. 

I swapped the booster in mine with one from a Mk 3 Rabbit as mine was full of brake fluid. Doesn't take much to do the swap, as long as you know how to turn a thread.


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## Wereweazle (Oct 8, 2008)

I'll get that hose replaced asap then. Old Volkswagen parts, even ones for Golfs, are pretty rare where I live. I'm going to swing by a VW dealer sometime this week and see if they can get any of the more obscure parts for me. By turn a thread do you mean like using a tap and die set?


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## dasherinoz (May 19, 2011)

Yup! This is for a B1 but it gives you the idea

http://www.vwdasher.com/index.php/restoration/23-repairing/45-replacing-the-brake-booster

VW left Australia in 1981, so we have to be creative in our repairs - no 2nd gen cars to rat for parts! And there are bugger all B1's here, which is why we turn to 3rd gen VW/Audi and adapt them.

www.germanautoparts.com is in NJ and stocks all the hoses you'll need. Plus they are really fast to ship.


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## Wereweazle (Oct 8, 2008)

I did a little bit of work yesterday, but nothing major.

I adjusted the shift linkage so it's sitting perfect now. Before, when I had the center console in, the shifter would bash into the plastic side when I went into first or second. Now all gears sit nicely within the hole provided by the console. 

After putting on the new caliper I didn't bleed the brakes as well as I should have, so I bled them a bit more. I did a gravity bleed (jacked up the front) for the first time and WOW it was so much easier than pumping and releasing at normal height. I bled the rears til I saw clear fluid come out and then started on the front left caliper. It seemed to loosen, but no fluid was coming out. I tried tightening back down again, but it wouldn't budge. I ended up snapping a wrench trying to get that bleeder valve to move. I just left it at that and am going to take the wheel off to get a better look at it today. But just from bleeding those rear brakes I noticed a huge improvement in brake feel. It's nice knowing I can stop now. 

I was bored yesterday so I also changed the air filter and cleaned the battery terminals. They seem to get a lot of that corrosion build-up very quickly. I'm going to get some petroleum jelly to put on them.


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## dasherinoz (May 19, 2011)

Oh yeah, fixing the brakes is a HUGE improvement! My car had shocking brakes when I got it, the fronts were Ford Cortina :screwy: and the backs were Nissan Pulsar :screwy: neither of which fitted properly or worked. When I got the brakes working properly for the first time, I was thrilled! We had to fabricate a new hand brake cable too, to make that work again. Doesn't it feel good when things are working!


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## Wereweazle (Oct 8, 2008)

It definitely does. My hand brake cable is pretty messed up at the moment. I discovered that any time I pull it and release it, the rear right caliper doesn't release. The cable binds up in its sleeve and sticks. That explains why my previous caliper stuck, overheated, and seized. That site you linked me has replacement cables with the rubber sleeves for pretty cheap so that will come soon. For now I just need to remember to NEVER touch my hand brake. Otherwise I have to go out back under the car and pull the cable free again with a wrench. :thumbdown:


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## dasherinoz (May 19, 2011)

Yikes! Hmmmm better put fixing your hand brake on the top of the to do list! 

Is the cooling running any better now? Cores don't last forever, might be time to replace that too.


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## Wereweazle (Oct 8, 2008)

Do you have any idea how much re-coring the radiator would cost?

I have the lower radiator hose and two parking brake cables on order. I'm waiting for that hose to come in before I do the flush. I figure I can get it all done at once.


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## dasherinoz (May 19, 2011)

I'd just replace the whole radiator, to be honest. That way you have an all clean set up! Check Germanautoparts for one, otherwise hit up Ebay.com. It will not be hard to find it, just google around to compare prices.


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## Wereweazle (Oct 8, 2008)

I'm going to see how it does after the flush and new hoses. I got the hoses in a few days ago. I also ordered new parking brake cables and door lock knobs. I can't believe they had door lock knobs in stock, that made my day. I was missing two. Anyway, my parking brake is now fully functioning and I'm waiting til next week to do the flush. A friend who is going to help me won't be home til then. I plan on replacing the hoses then. I think I'll use some commercial "flushing fluid" from autozone while the old hoses are still on. Then, when the flush is complete, replace the old hoses with the new. I figure this way none of that gunk from the flushing fluid can get stuck in the new hoses. 

I do have one concern/question. My radiator fans kick on whenever I turn the car off. They've done this forever so I never really thought about it. But, after being stranded last week due to a dead battery, it got me thinking that maybe I should check it out and that the running fans are to blame. They don't run forever, obviously. But they run for awhile if the car is hot and I shut it off. If I just take the car for a short drive and it doesn't warm up too much, they won't come on when I shut it off. 

The thing I'm concerned about is, I'm not really sure if they're even coming on when the car is on. I only really hear them kick on once I shut the ignition off after a long drive. If I move the key to the accessory on position, the fans will stop. Once the key is turned back to fully off, they'll kick on again. They do finally shut themselves off once they deem the car is cool enough I suppose. But frankly, it's slightly embarrassing going someplace and having to explain to people why your car is still making noise when they ask about it. Is this a normal thing or should I be looking for a broken relay/temp gauge/thermostat?


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## dasherinoz (May 19, 2011)

Oh no it's quite normal; mine does that too and shuts off independent of the ignition. Usually kicks in just as I am driving up my driveway and runs for a few seconds due to being stuck in traffic. As long as it turns off again, all is operating fine! :thumbup:

Just tell people your car is controlled by aliens!


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## Wereweazle (Oct 8, 2008)

Well, I finished up the e-brake. Had to do some creative trickery as the rod holding the U-bracket for the cables snapped in half as I was trying to back off the retaining bolt. Oh well, that's all done and working.

Also did a full radiator flush. Man, was that stuff gross. Anyway, I now have a perfectly clean and topped off radiator... That still doesn't run any cooler. Maybe a new radiator will be in my future, but for now I'm completely broke. 

I did a cool heat gun trick to my bumpers to restore the black color. Basically just hold a heat gun near them til they turn black again. The car looks much better now. I did have to use a piece of cardboard to protect the paint as I was doing the trim.


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## dasherinoz (May 19, 2011)

Yeah if the rad's still running hot, time to replace it sadly 

Got any wreckers near you? Have a fossick around, you might find one from a B2 or 3 that fits!

I've heard of the heat gun thing. We pulled the bumpers off, painted them with plastic prime them with plastic satin paint. They look brand new now, have done that with the Mk 1's too. Amazing difference.


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## Wereweazle (Oct 8, 2008)

Here's a picture of the bumpers after the heat gun trick. It's wet from a bit of rain, but if you compare it to the pictures from further up in the thread you can see what an amazing difference it made:
http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/ab158/Wereweazle/2011-06-14074058.jpg

I had to look up what "fossick" meant. It made me laugh. The one from the germanautoparts site you linked was on $250, but I may have a look around just in case I can get something cheaper. The only problem is I don't have too much cash to throw around. I've got a few trips coming up I need to save for and I've got my eye on some motorcycle gear. As for now the car runs reliably and happily enough to take me anywhere I ask it to.


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