# The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!!



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

I just slapped a k24 on my 82 rabbit diesel.
I have the stock manifolds and all that crap... I also have a turbo pump that I will retrofit soon, I am just too lazy right now.
The engine has about 180,000 miles on it, and the wg is set at it's stock setting (whatever that is). 
I have an EGT and a Boost gauge that I am going to be installing as soon as I fix the exhaust.
Anyway, it is LOTS faster, and sounds awesome. The main reason for doing this is to see for myself what FI will do to the NA engine... Everybody says it can't and shouldnt be done, but from what I have seen and heard from other guys that have done it, say it's totally possible.
I will probably stick the turbo pump on there next week, and if ALL HELL BREAKS LOOSE like everybody says, then I guess we'll see some pretty funny **** here real soon then. http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif 


_Modified by 16VJohn at 3:00 PM 12-21-2006_


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## nineball12 (Mar 17, 2005)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! uh oh, cherio! (16VJohn)*

where'd you get the turbo and everything???


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## burn_your_money (Oct 4, 2004)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! uh oh, cherio! (nineball12)*

He got it from a J-yard I beleive, unless it was some of the stuff I sent you?








I think your engine will hold up just fine unless you start messing with the boost.
There shouldn't be any retrofitting with the pump, it should bolt right up


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! uh oh, cherio! (burn_your_money)*


_Quote, originally posted by *burn_your_money* »_He got it from a J-yard I beleive, unless it was some of the stuff I sent you?








I think your engine will hold up just fine unless you start messing with the boost.
There shouldn't be any retrofitting with the pump, it should bolt right up

I know it'll bolt right up, but just gotta make the switch out... I kinda messed up the threads on the pump, so I gotta get a thread chaser and see if I can clean it up first.
Yeah, I got all the parts out of a wrecking yard. http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif


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## Rabbit TDi (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! uh oh, cherio! (16VJohn)*

Do you have oil squirters?
I turned a n/a into a TD and it kicks ass but it's not going to last as long as a stock TD.








Plug the waste gate and pressure release valve. 
People on here are gonna complain and whine and try to get you to do it a different way because they say it on "the internets a different wayz" but my daily is a 79 Rabbit TD that has the PRV/WG clamped off. 
Also look into the "Govnah mod"








After you do all that stuff keep your eye on the pyro because it's gonna get damn hot and enjoy the ride!
TD's F YEAH!
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! uh oh, cherio! (Rabbit TDi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Rabbit TDi* »_
People on here are gonna complain and whine and try to get you to do it a different way because they say it on "the internets a different wayz" 

Yeah, so stick that in your exhaust pipes and smoke it!















I'm pretty sure I don't have oil squirters... I probably should have looked when I had the oil pan off, but I just assumed that all the na's were squirter-less, so I didnt bother to check...
Why plug off the wastegate? Won't it peak at like 25-30 psi? You figure the na engine can handle that? lol...
Why plug off the dv??? I guess the spring would probably give way before the desired boost of around 25-30 is achieved.
I'll search for the "Govnah" mod and see whats up...








Edit: Ohhh btw, what would be considered Okay / Getting Hotter / Hot / and HOLY ****, What's Burning?! (on the pyro?)


_Modified by 16VJohn at 11:32 AM 12-12-2006_


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## TurboDieselTech (Jul 24, 2005)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! uh oh, cherio! (16VJohn)*

Don't bypass the pressure release valve (aka overpressure valve)... unless, of course, you enjoy replacing heads and head gaskets. Find yourself a Volvo 700 series car with a D24T engine... that's right VOLVO. The engine is actually a VW 2.4L turbodiesel inline six cylinder. The pressure release valve is the same, except it's ADJUSTABLE. Also has a set of contacts inside that close when the valve is open, so you can hook a light or buzzer to it and know when you have exceeded the preset boost.


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## Passenger Performance (Nov 11, 2005)

Poor tuning and setup is what ruins the NA to TD conversions. I converted a NA to TD and its running 32 psi of boost, at the time of the conversion I put a metal headgasket in it. I did that swap about 1.5 years ago, its still running strong. Its all in the tuning. Watch your EGT gauge.


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## Philbert411 (Mar 31, 2003)

*Re: (Passenger Performance)*

This is what I like to hear
not only squeezing performance out of diesels (thanks to people out west like PP and malone) but to do things like turbocharge NA cars... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif







cheers!
keep us posted
keep up the good work


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! uh oh, cherio! (TurboDieselTech)*

Well, yeah... I guess my main reason was to "stick it to the man" and show them that I can do whatever the hell I want with my car.... Anyway, we'll see how it all works out... longetivity wise.

_Quote, originally posted by *TurboDieselTech* »_Don't bypass the pressure release valve (aka overpressure valve)... unless, of course, you enjoy replacing heads and head gaskets. Find yourself a Volvo 700 series car with a D24T engine... that's right VOLVO. The engine is actually a VW 2.4L turbodiesel inline six cylinder. The pressure release valve is the same, except it's ADJUSTABLE. Also has a set of contacts inside that close when the valve is open, so you can hook a light or buzzer to it and know when you have exceeded the preset boost.

I don't think I will modify the boost. Right now I am totally stoked with the added performance, and I think I'll leave it there until boost syndrome kicks in, and I just can't help but crank it up. The overpressure valve is a VERY simple valve... It wouldnt be hard to modify it to hold more pressure. It's nothing more than a spring and diaphram.
That's a great idea about the volvo diesel, but in all honesty, how many have we actually seen in the united states? I (personally) have never seen or heard of a volvo diesel anywhere near where I live... I wonder if we could get these from the volvo dealer?


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## Rabbit TDi (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! uh oh, cherio! (16VJohn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16VJohn* »_
Yeah, so stick that in your exhaust pipes and smoke it!















I'm pretty sure I don't have oil squirters... I probably should have looked when I had the oil pan off, but I just assumed that all the na's were squirter-less, so I didnt bother to check...
Why plug off the wastegate? Won't it peak at like 25-30 psi? You figure the na engine can handle that? lol...
Why plug off the dv??? I guess the spring would probably give way before the desired boost of around 25-30 is achieved.
I'll search for the "Govnah" mod and see whats up...








Edit: Ohhh btw, what would be considered Okay / Getting Hotter / Hot / and HOLY ****, What's Burning?! (on the pyro?)

_Modified by 16VJohn at 11:32 AM 12-12-2006_

HAHAHa.








Go ahead and plug man! I dunno how hot "hot" is but, on the Rabbit I drive I don't get the pyro past "9".
As for plugging it- clip on some vise grips to "test" it. It's gonna work! Mine does! Then if you like it make it permanent.
As for replacing head gaskets and blowing crap up. Pfft. Hasn't happened to me ever. If you have a good set up and everything is clean and set up nice...dooooo eeeeet!
Here's the Scirocco I help put together that has a na+turbo on it like yours:

No issues and I peg the guage in the Rabbit at 20+ psi all the time.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Lemme know how it goes. 



_Modified by Rabbit TDi at 6:22 PM 12-13-2006_


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## TurboDieselTech (Jul 24, 2005)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! uh oh, cherio! (16VJohn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16VJohn* »_That's a great idea about the volvo diesel, but in all honesty, how many have we actually seen in the united states? I (personally) have never seen or heard of a volvo diesel anywhere near where I live... I wonder if we could get these from the volvo dealer?

I've owned three of them... They're around. You just gotta look for 'em. They usually blow a head gasket and when the owner finds out the head gasket alone will cost them about $275, they end up junking the car. If you find one, grab the turbo too... It'll bolt right up to the 1.6 TD manifold. The six cylinder is basically a 1.6D with two cylinders added between #2 and #3.


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! uh oh, cherio! (TurboDieselTech)*

Hey, that's a sweet setup, man... I think I'm going to put my audi 5000 intercooler in there and see what happens... Maybe I should put that turbo pump in first though...
Today and yesterday have both delivered sucessful runs of the rabbit NA-TD. I beat the crap out of it today (without my pyro installed...







). I also installed the exhaust and got it all welded up.... 3 Inch pipe from downpipe back... I guess I'll need to take care of that cast manifold and replace it with something that flows a bit better to take advantage of the full exhaust.
Speaking of the pyrometer, where is the most ideal place to mount the probe??? I was thinking at the turbo outlet on the downpipe... Also, what is "9" on your pyro??? 9 as in 900 F?

This little diesel has proven tougher than I thought it would. http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif 


_Modified by 16VJohn at 10:33 PM 12-13-2006_


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## Rabbit TDi (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! uh oh, cherio! (16VJohn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16VJohn* »_This little diesel has proven tougher than I thought it would. http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif 

Of couse! It's Diesel and that thing will run forever.
I believe it's 13 (x1000) before the turbo and 9 (x1000) after the turbo. So where you mount the sensor will affect what the pyro is going to read.
Keep the stock manifold but get a good down pipe. TechTonics does a 2.25" one and there is a company in Canada that does a 2.50" one for the same price.
The turbo quiets down the straight pipe and sounds awesome.
More power:
Clamping off the lines I told you earlier
Port and polish the head
Govenor mod
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Let me know how you mount up that Audi 5000 mega intercooler. I have a 1.8T MKiv intercooler that is tiny and then the Audi one.
And get some pics of this Rabbit damnit!


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! uh oh, cherio! (Rabbit TDi)*

The rabbit aint nothing to look at right now... the interior is trashed (as usual with rabbits), and there is a HUGE scratch on the driver door, but it's pretty sweet except for that... I have some wheels off a 93 passat I put on there cause the tires were new and the passat was getting parted out







http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif I think I am going to do the timing belt and swap out the pumps tomorrow.
We'll have to see how much hacking I am going to have to do to mount the audi intercooler... If I can delete my compressor and condensor, I'm sure I'll have enough room... I have a spare diesel engine with the non ac bracket, and I could steal the pulley off the alt.
Edit:
Pyro x1000??? The surface of the sun is around 10,000 degrees. The turbo outlet couldnt be that hot. It's probably x100.... correct me if I am wrong.


_Modified by 16VJohn at 9:59 AM 12-14-2006_


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## Rabbit TDi (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! uh oh, cherio! (16VJohn)*

lol. I didn't have my coffee when I wrote that. Hehe. I put in an extra 0 I think.
So what if the Rabbit looks like poop...I wanna see the motor set up because that's what REALLY matters.







There's something special about beater bunnies anyway.
If you click on the rebuild link in my sig you'll see what I'm working on.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! uh oh, cherio! (Rabbit TDi)*

Here's the turd in all it's glory... Had to borrow a camera.









A dirty engine bay








Different point of view








Another view








"The Goods"








The 3 Inch exhaust pipe








Another view
















The vegetable oil tank.... (project in the works still) 55 gallon drum slightly modified (42 gallons)








A better view of the actual size... It sits down in the spare tire hole.








The oil cooler I will be adding very soon








The turbo pump... Just had the threads fixed today.
























Dirty interior shot... Mt. Dew plugging the vent because only cold air blows out. I think the bee's nests inside are preventing the flap from operating.








Cluster... not the actual miles.








Peterbuilt 18 speed shift knob... courtesy of Eaton-Fuller Transmissions








Last weeks lunch!








My oil feed line... Brass fitting from home depot, 3 feet of 300psi fuel injection line, and a few VERY tight hose clamps... works great, eh.


_Modified by 16VJohn at 1:01 PM 12-14-2006_


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## burn_your_money (Oct 4, 2004)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! uh oh, cherio! (16VJohn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16VJohn* »_works great, eh.

You're not Canadian!








Passanger preformance from BC has the best downpipe available from my understanding. There was a debate on TTs and PPs and the majority voted for PPs. He can custom build it larger then 2.5 if you want too, not that you'd need it. 
I think you should install the pyro pre turbo, right at the base of the manifold where the turbo bolts up.


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## wolf_walker (Dec 4, 2002)

That oil cooler blows, seriously recommend a volvo unit with seperate true air/oil cooler, there cheap at junkyards.


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (wolf_walker)*

Day 3 of some psi, and the rabbit still runs like a top... No catostrophic failures or explosions yet.








I figured the heat exchanger was better than nothing? Well... I've also played with the idea of running the cooler on it's own cooling circuit with a small 12 volt coolant pump, then use something like a heater core out of my parts stash.... Only real issue is, there is not a whole lotta room to mount all this crap in the engine bay, let alone run lines and all that. I'm struggling finding a decent place to mount an intercooler.
Tell me more about the volvo sytle cooler... they came on the turbo volvos??? I know where one of those are right now.


_Modified by 16VJohn at 10:54 PM 12-14-2006_


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! uh oh, cherio! (16VJohn)*

I got the boost gauge in today... the highest I could get it to go was about 9.5 psi


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## burn_your_money (Oct 4, 2004)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! uh oh, cherio! (16VJohn)*

I got an oil cooler out of a TDI for free, still sitting in my closet though. No lines or anything, I'll need to get those custom built


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! uh oh, cherio! (burn_your_money)*

Day 4, and counting....
I got sick and tired of trying to get the stupid thing to blow up, so I floored it for about 2 minutes straight (while getting on the highway) pushing 9.5psi the entire time! EGT got up there, but never into the "dangerous" area either. Mind you, this is on the NA pump, and no oil cooler.
I am convinced whoever the (select few) individuals that turbo'ed their 1.6 na's did not do a very good job at it. This diesel has had the ever living crap beat out of it the past 4 days. It has delivered this extended performance (without complaint). The engine is very high mileage and has not been taken very good care of in it's life.
I am certain the extra measures implemented by Volkswagen to withstand the "extra temperatures" were a engineering measure set in place to be absolutly certain there would be no "over heat" issues that would damage the engine or affect longetivity. To me this is not very hard to believe.
I turboed a 2.0L 8V gasoline engine (with 240,000 miles) using the audi 5000 turbo and modified manifold.... I ran 14 psi of boost on the stock engine for months.... Producing well over 200whp. Enough power to break parts in the transmission.... The ONLY thing I did to the car (except add the turbo equipment) was instal a vortec FMU to increase fuel pressure with a boost reference. The car met it's fate when I turned the boost pressure up to 16psi to race a BMW.... This was the straw that broke the camels back, and a slight failure of the head gasket occured. This 2.0L gas engine was built to specs far less than the precision worksmanship and engineering that went into this simple 1.6L diesel.
I think it's totally possible to run (reasonable amounts) of boost on any stock engine.... with proper tuning and maintenance. After my little escapade on the highway today I will never believe another word of these so called "catastrophic failures" that I have heard from so many people that do not have personal experience... The have merely heard from a friend who heard from a friend who heard that "this MIGHT happen" if you do this to a stock engine.
BULL ****!!!
Merry Christmas, everyone.


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## burn_your_money (Oct 4, 2004)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! uh oh, cherio! (16VJohn)*

It's probably the differance of 300k kms instead of 500k kms. 4 days is pretty hard to determine how well the engine will hold up over extended periods of time


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! uh oh, cherio! (burn_your_money)*

9.5 psi for over 2 minutes is a pretty good testament of durability... don't you think? The original answers to my questions said that the na diesel would last days if not hours.


_Modified by 16VJohn at 3:28 PM 12-16-2006_


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## burn_your_money (Oct 4, 2004)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! uh oh, cherio! (16VJohn)*

If it's still running good after 60k miles then I'll be convinced


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! uh oh, cherio! (burn_your_money)*

Yet another successful day of 9.5 psi. Just found out my injection timing is way off though... And my dial is broken, so I'll need to get another one... debating on replacing the timing belt soon... I'm going to add my non ac pulley system, and I think it would be wise to do the timing belt whilst all that is tore apart.
I also just found a 92 cabriolet complete except no engine.... I'm debating on plucking the engine out of my rab and sticking it in there.


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## wolf_walker (Dec 4, 2002)

I think the turbo gasser volvos had the little apaptor, really you can snag the whole system.
If you have an oil temp gauge, you'll see why you need it in the summer I imagine, mine was scary.


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (wolf_walker)*

I'll go pluck the whole system from that volvo in the junkyard... If it's not there anymore, I'll probably make an oil cooler out of that heat exchanger and a heater core.


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## greenblock (Dec 16, 2006)

n/a to td thing has been done, people whine about it all the time, but they people that whine and say you need oil squirters and a true td head and all that are the people who haven't done it, it's been done many times with out a problem, with your stock injector pump and stock boost you can't hurt that engine. blake had his n/a that he turboed and he beat the **** out of it and and ran it up to 1600+degrees of ehxaust temps(which is a horrible idea, never try it. and it continued to run fine. yeah vw did make the td's a better more rugged motor, but a turboed n/a is plenty rugged.


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (greenblock)*

Yeah, I went and looked at this cabriolet today... 75 bucks. The exterior and interior are pretty much mint condition. The guy did something to the interior and put the dash back in wrong, so I'll have to fix that first, but I am going to yank the engine out of the rabbit and stick it in the cabby.
On another note, I beat the crap out of the rabbit again today... The diesel has not met it's demise on 9.5 psi.


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## greenblock (Dec 16, 2006)

you're running it on 9.5psi with stock fueling on a naturally aspirated pump, you couldn't hurt the motor if you tried.


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (greenblock)*

If I had to guess, I'd say I gained 25ft lbs... and on an engine like the 1.6d that is around 30%... I am amazingly satisfied with the performance increase. It was totally worth it, and the car is much more streetable now.
The boost has not had any affect on the engine, whatsoever. (yet anyway). If the engine lasts into the summer, I will definatly consider getting some type of effective oil cooler to assist cooling the beast down on the hot summer days. 
The cabriolet I picked up today has power steering... I'm a big fan of power steering..... I think I might have to do some tweaking to make this engine work in the cabby, but it'll be worth it... the rabbit has no amenities, and it's starting to drive me nuts. The only reason this rabbit hasnt been sold yet is because I added the turbo.... sort of added some life to the rabbit making it slightly more desirable to drive.


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## janb (Oct 24, 2000)

*Re: (greenblock)*


_Quote, originally posted by *greenblock* »_you're running it on 9.5psi with stock fueling on a naturally aspirated pump, you couldn't hurt the motor if you tried.

Yeah, you need the 'boost enrichment' to get it hot. It should only run 17-19PSI blocked off, but... a long hard pull (10 miles uphill, full throttle, will toast a few things) Probably 1st head gasket (unless You used a metal one from 1.9) then head will start 'cratering' and potentially crack. Maybe pre-chambers too (they often crack in TD heads, which have a tougher alloy) Even abusing it, I would expect it to go 50-100,000 miles in that light weight chassis. A Vanagon on the other hand can get toasty, and I would not expect it to go to 50k


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (janb)*

Still running great!
Hmmm, you guys don't think I should put the turbo pump on there??? I guess a little self control and diligent observation of the EGT and oil temp would probably make it okay to run 15-20psi on the NA engine.


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## RabbitJockey (Nov 25, 2004)

you'r enot going to want to go above 15 with out an intercooler, otherwise as long as your egt's are in check you're golden


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (Trev0rBr)*

Ohhh, I am definatly doing the intercooler... I have that huge intercooler (well... huge for the 1.6) that came on the audi 5000. When I swap this engine into the cabby, I'll find a good place to mount the intercooler. 
I've noticed the max boost does not come very quickly while using the k24 on the 1.6.... Even on the highway at a high rpm it takes 2 or 3 seconds to build full boost... I'm hoping the addition of this big intercooler won't affect this too much. I'm pretty sure the benefits of this intercooler will outweigh it's negative affects of the pressure losses on this poor tiny little engine.


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## RabbitJockey (Nov 25, 2004)

this is due to fueling. more fuel will make it spool faster


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (Trev0rBr)*

Well... it blows black smoke until peak boost is reached, which tells me it's getting more than needed fuel down low.


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

15 days of beating the crap out of the car and I have yet to experience any "catostrophic failures". No increased oil consumption, no increased blowby, easy cold starts, and still an amazing increase in power.... I've probably put an easy 1300-1500 miles on the car.


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

I scored an oil cooler from a volvo today... Got the sandwich plate, lines and radiator thinggy.
From the same junkyard I also scored a 1.6 true TD engine!!! My jaw dropped when I found this... in UTAH. There was a little oil in the downpipe, so I am assuming the car was junked because it was blowing smoke due to the turbo.... The engine spun freely and the timing belt was tight. Half price weekend at pick and pull scored this engine for 70 bucks. Complete with all accessories. I'm going to do a full rebuild and stick it into my cabby.... So that leaves me the 82 rabbit to mess around with and continue my NA > Turbo experiment.
I still need to hack up some pipes to put my intercooler in... I think I'll do that tomorrow since I have the day off.... It's VERY quick when turbo is still cold, but when the engine gets hot it feels like a fat chick.


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## carrizog60 (Sep 13, 2003)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

i also have a 1.6D converted to TD(but it was rebuilt) and still runs after 6 months of driving.
i run now with 1.6bar at red line and fuel to match and it still kicks ass
watch my thread:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3002903


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (carrizog60)*

Well... I just pissed off somebody really bad, so he started following me... lol.... They were in those brand new Lincoln continentals... It had to be a V6, because my rabbit did a bang up job at "getting away". I took corners going about 45mph. The Lincoln did some good catching up in the straights, but when it came to the corners, the rabbit ownz joo. I pretty much had it floored the whole time. Another great "get away" feature was the huge clouds of black smoke... which had to really suck to drive through.
After that nice little spirited drive at 10psi I let it idle in my driveway for 2 or 3 mins to let everything cool back down to operating temperatures... haha. Stick this rabbit in your pipe and smoke it sucka.
I can't help but remember watching an episode of cops where some guys in a gas rabbit were running from the cop car... The crown victoria obviously had more power, but the rabbit would suddenly dart out of the picture frame and the crown vic took quite some time taking it's turn and catching back up.
Points: 
Euros: 1
Domestics: 0
Turbo NA Diesels: 36


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

Another score for the NA > Turbo diesel conversion is this beautiful little toyota pickup. A good friend of mine built this thing up from the bottom... The engine is the stock 2.4L NA diesel, with a fairly large KKK turbo. It came from Toyota NA, but after he got ahold of it, it was soon pushing 18lbs of boost. These motors also have the Bosch rotary pump like our IDI's. As you can see from the pictures it's in awesome shape. Decent lift, good looking rims, and good rubber. Not to mention the new flatbed. He took me for a drive in the truck, and it was remarkably comfortable. It gets up and goes fairly well too. Very cool truck. He is looking for something to better suit his needs, so hopefully we can find somebody that can appreciate this truck.
This was the guy and truck that motivated me to try the turbo idea. Personally, I think the IDI engines sound a lot better than the TDI's. There is something about these old workhorses that I like.
IDI's all the way.http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
http://saltlakecity.craigslist....html 


_Modified by 16VJohn at 7:23 AM 1-2-2007_


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

Closing in on the one month mark... Still running great.
Last night, I got super fed up with the "metallic poop" paint job... or in other words, BRONZE. I decided to take a rattle can to the rabbit. I used flat black, because I like black, and flat black dries evenly. Looks pretty good!!! It got dark real fast, so one side of the car was done in the dark, so it looks kinda crappy.... I'll probably go over the entire car just to even things out a bit. I might possibly wet sand it to make it a super high quality ******* paint job.


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## wolf_walker (Dec 4, 2002)

I'm diggin it. Keep us updated.
Got a dragstrip nearby?


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (wolf_walker)*

I rigged up some pipes and hooked my bigass blackstone intercooler from a saab 9000... I took the hood off and just sat the intercooler on top of the engine. I got on the highway and after driving for a little bit I decided to drop down to 4th and floor it.... The beautiful resonance of a screaming diesel engine in tune with the clouds of black smoke, spewing out of the 3 inch exhaust... and all I have to say is HOLY ****!! the intercooler makes a HUGE difference. I think it registered about 75-80hp and atleast 115-125ft lbs on the butt dyno. The accelleration is much much better with the IC. Now all I have to do is find a way to mount it down permanently.
Next on the list is the turbo injector pump... I gotta add more fuel to this sucker so I can crank up the boost. Hopefully, the properly tuned turbo pump will help prevent most of the black smoke.


----------



## Passenger Performance (Nov 11, 2005)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

Time for a bigger downpipe


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (Passenger Performance)*

Yeah... do you guys sell just the flange for the k24?


----------



## Rabbit TDi (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: (16VJohn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16VJohn* »_Yeah... do you guys sell just the flange for the k24?

Buyer beware. 
I'm probably going to start a pissing contest but I'm disappointed in the parts brought to me from Passenger Performance. They look nice and are good but when push came to shove...I wouldn't put it on my car.
_Cavet Emptor_


----------



## Passenger Performance (Nov 11, 2005)

*Re: (16VJohn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16VJohn* »_Yeah... do you guys sell just the flange for the k24?

Yep shoot me a PM


----------



## Passenger Performance (Nov 11, 2005)

*Re: (Rabbit TDi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Rabbit TDi* »_Buyer beware. 
I'm probably going to start a pissing contest but I'm disappointed in the parts brought to me from Passenger Performance. They look nice and are good but when push came to shove...I wouldn't put it on my car.
_Cavet Emptor_

?? I thought I remember you PMing me a few weeks ago saying you were really happy with some stuff that was brought to you. What happened?


----------



## Rabbit TDi (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: (Passenger Performance)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Passenger Performance* »_
?? I thought I remember you PMing me a few weeks ago saying you were really happy with some stuff that was brought to you. What happened?

I got around to the install with the down pipe- not good.


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (Rabbit TDi)*

I've heard lots of good things about the downpipes from passenger perf... Anything would be better than the stock downpipe. Making a downpipe from scratch is tedious. I'd rather buy one if I had the cash.
---
Anyway, back to the rabbit... The turbo changed sounds today... I don't know what happened, but the whistle is a lot louder now. I got under the car to check for holes in the exhaust and to make sure the c clamps were doign their job. I also checked the intake hose to make sure everything was tight.
The extra turbo noise sounds more like the intake compressor whistle. I took the intake hose off and the bearings are fine still. I can't figure it out. Anyway, it sounds extra badass now. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Passenger Performance (Nov 11, 2005)

I would like to find out if there is a problem with the downpipe, I have made about 50 of them since last january and this is the first I have heard of a fitement issue, they have all been made on the same jig. However I will give you the benefit of the doubt and I will make it right if there is in fact an issue with the downpipe.


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*re*

Okay, finally some basic sound clips of the 3 inch exhaust under a few different conditions. This is a full 3 inch pipe from downpipe back. No mufflers or anything. Pipe exits the side near rear driver side door. Factory stock downpipe and "toilet bowl".
Note that all of these test were done with the driver window all the way down as well as in a mark 1 with no rear seat or carpet.
The sound clip has very short pauses inbetween. You can hear when the clip changes. Pay attention. Here is the description of each clip:
1. Outside the car near exhaust 0-35 part accelleration. (arm hanging out window)
2. Inside the car 0-35mph light accelleration / part throttle.
3. Inside the car 0-40mph hard accelleration / full throttle.
4. Inside the car 0-60 light accelleration / part throttle.
5. Inside the car (drone from exhaust) at 70mph. No accelleration.
6. Outside the car inches away from the exhaust with engine at idle.
http://server10.myebiz.com/dubnet/exhaust.wav


_Modified by 16VJohn at 7:47 PM 1-5-2007_


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: re (16VJohn)*

I went and picked up the cabby to recieve this engine! http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3012693


----------



## knowtwodrugs (Aug 21, 2005)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! uh oh, cherio! (TurboDieselTech)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TurboDieselTech* »_Don't bypass the pressure release valve (aka overpressure valve)... unless, of course, you enjoy replacing heads and head gaskets. Find yourself a Volvo 700 series car with a D24T engine... that's right VOLVO. The engine is actually a VW 2.4L turbodiesel inline six cylinder. The pressure release valve is the same, except it's ADJUSTABLE. Also has a set of contacts inside that close when the valve is open, so you can hook a light or buzzer to it and know when you have exceeded the preset boost.

Has anyone ever swapped one of these engines? Do they fit into rabbits?







How about replacement parts, are they readily available? This engine sounds pretty sweet. Also, what kind of power is it making usually?


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! uh oh, cherio! (knowtwodrugs)*

The volvo is rear wheel drive... I know a few guys that have tried to fit 5 cylinder engines into their golfs/jettas so I highly doubt you'll get a 6 cyl to fit in the rabbit unless you did rwd...


----------



## knowtwodrugs (Aug 21, 2005)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! uh oh, cherio! (16VJohn)*

Maybe mid-engine rear wheel drive in a caddy? Hrm....


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! uh oh, cherio! (knowtwodrugs)*

Still working good!
I hit a huge snow pile and it ripped off my exhaust, but other than that no breakage or failures.
I just bought a house with a garage, so now I can actually swap the turbo pump in and see what I can blow up with some huge fueling! Gotta get one of those manual boost controllers to see how far I can turn up the boost before something POPS!


----------



## wolf_walker (Dec 4, 2002)

Still watchin this with interest..


----------



## wjbski (Feb 1, 2003)

*Re: (wolf_walker)*

16Vjohn, keep up the good work. I'm enjoying reading your posts. I really enjoyed the pics, espically the one where you can see the mountains. They look like they are at the end of your street! Utah is a really beautiful place, now you have a buggie that will get you up and down the mountain passes with power to spare.
Have you had any issues with the altitude with reguards to tuning the engine?


----------



## Malone (Oct 2, 2001)

*Re: (16VJohn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16VJohn* »_Personally, I think the IDI engines sound a lot better than the TDI's. There is something about these old workhorses that I like.
IDI's all the way.http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I still like TDIs and own a 2006, but I'm not leaving behind IDIs! This is a pretty good read on the performance differences between IDIs and TDIs: http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=2329
I'm looking forward to your updates.


----------



## cdub58 (Sep 26, 2006)

*Re: (Malone)*

sweet post man. i plan on doing the same to mine in the near future! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (wjbski)*

I love Utah... I always hated Utah living at the 'rents house because there was no garage. Something about swapping an engine in 15 degree weather makes you mad... lol. Now that I have a heated garage me and Utah are at mediation. The mountains are pretty close... about 2 miles away from my house is the mouth of the canyon... Highway 6. The 8th most deadliest road in the United States.... Not exactly the road you want to speed on... (patrolled by aircraft). 
The altitude has always been an issue with my cars. According to the GPS we are at 4,800 feet here. NA engines are HORRIDLY slow... I had an NA diesel dynoed at 36hp to the wheels. The turbo is almost necessary for these altitudes... Without the turbo it just chugs and chugs. A stock 12V VR6 puts down about 145-155 to the wheels at this altitude.
Anyway, the rabbit is still doing good. I got the turbo pump on there so my fueling is a lot more efficient, with much less smoke with the accelerator at 100%. I have not upped the boost yet, it's still running about 9 - 10 psi with occasional 11psi spikes.
The engine has new glow plugs and it starts in ice cold -10 Fahrenheit weather with very little complaint. The turbo has not affected compression or crankcase blowby since I installed the turbo months ago.
I am having one problem, which is directly related to the turbo charging. There is a little bit of oil that sneaks past the turbo on the compressor side and that seems to be leaking out of the seam on the intake manifold with the little upper piece and the larger lower piece... I think I'll try to take that off and seal it with some RTV silicone, and I am sure that will fix it. 
My fuel injection hose line that I use for the supply is not leaking at all. It works great. I got a brass fitting from home depot and that screwed right into the oil tap on the top of the filter flange... then you get the fuel injection hose clamps and run that to the turbo... all in all I spent about 5 bucks running my oil lines.... I highly recommend this method.
On occasion I still drive my wife's GTI VR6 and that makes my little rabbit TD very inadequate... I need more power. This lust for power will likely come at the cost of this poor little diesel engine. I am going to try 15psi in the beginning and see what happens. Hopefully before that I can get my intercooler mounted in first to keep things a bit cooler. I also hope to add the volvo oil cooler too. 
Intercooler, oil cooler and a high speed radiator fan all coupled together should help keep temperatures in check. I know these are a must for the summe as it gets 90-110 degrees Fahrenheit here. All this fueling and boost gets this engine pretty hot and it's still very cold here, so we'll see what happens in the summer.


----------



## knowtwodrugs (Aug 21, 2005)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! uh oh, cherio! (16VJohn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16VJohn* »_The volvo is rear wheel drive... I know a few guys that have tried to fit 5 cylinder engines into their golfs/jettas so I highly doubt you'll get a 6 cyl to fit in the rabbit unless you did rwd...

I don't want to start an argument, but haven't I seen rabbits with 6 cylinders on here before? (patatron comes to mind) And actually... RWD doesn't sound impossible. Just run some sidepipes for an exhaust, and use that small tunnel for the drive shaft. Lowering the car would probably be a bad idea at that point, but it would kick ass anyway.


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! uh oh, cherio! (knowtwodrugs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *knowtwodrugs* »_I don't want to start an argument, but haven't I seen rabbits with 6 cylinders on here before? (patatron comes to mind) And actually... RWD doesn't sound impossible. Just run some sidepipes for an exhaust, and use that small tunnel for the drive shaft. Lowering the car would probably be a bad idea at that point, but it would kick ass anyway.

Rear wheel drive requires a complete change in the front subframe. You also need to completly change your steering system, because the rack is right in the way of where the transmission goes. The only way you could go RWD in a volkswagen is with a transverse mounted engine with an extremely wierd transmission, or go AWD and disable the front wheels.
Some guys have said you can just mount the transmission above the rack, but then half the engine would be sticking out of the hood, and you would loose 8 inches on each side of the center console to make room for the transmission.
Third, you'd have to engineer a differential and axle setup for the rear... You could probably make the rear setup from an old synchro work, then have a custom driveline made.
You would basically be putting a volkswagen unibody on top of the guts from the RWD donor car. All in all it would probably take 2,500 hours of fabrication and 20 - 30,000 dollars to buy all the parts and tools required to do the job... An EXTREMELY unrealistic project.
The only 6 cylinder rabbits I have ever heard of are VR6. Those are front wheel drive and are as wide as a 4 cylinder engine (Hence the VR6, which translated from the german means In-Line V6).
Where there is a will, there is always a way.... given enough time and money anything can be done.


----------



## lagmywagon (Aug 22, 2001)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! uh oh, cherio! (16VJohn)*

watched!! this is awsome. i wanna turbo my diesel! i want to run it on wvo first though.


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## knowtwodrugs (Aug 21, 2005)

Is it true you have to run all synthetic lines if you convert to WVO? I'm rebuilding a 1.6 right now and we're getting our WVO system up and running so I figured I'd replace the lines with synthetic now if I have to.


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (knowtwodrugs)*

I'm just using the standard rubber goodyear fuel line from autozone... it's been working fine for me.
I highly recommend the turbo charging.... It's been AWESOME. Leave the wastegate at it's stock setting, turn the fuel screw up just a little bit and LEAVE IT. I know that would be reliable and the engine would last forever as long as you kept the temperatures down with the use of an oil temp and pyro gauge.
The only problem thus far is my oil return is leaking a little... I guess I missed some spots while doing the welding on the oil pan... Ohh well.. Nothing a little RTV silicone wont fix.


----------



## eldorado (Sep 29, 2001)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

If you've increased the fueling then running more boost will actually help your engine...diesel's run the exact opposite of gassers...the leaner you run a gas engine the higher the egt's. The leaner you run a diesel..ie no smoke the LESS your egt temps will be. when you see smoke..you'll also notice your EGT temps going up. 
You will not have any HG issues that is different than a td....they use the same HG, bolts, torques etc..The only issue you'll have is with the pistons...since they're not being cooled by oil. Youy can really help the problem by adding a big oil cooler like the volvo unit. Your oil temps should never be over 210F ever with the volvo oil cooler setup..it's that good, it was made for a 2.4/2.5 gasser that runs hotter turbo temps. 
Once you get past running 10-12psi of boost, you definitely need to add an intercooler..this will help your egt temps and give more power to boot. 
The most critical part of a turboed N/A diesel is the EGT's...never go past 1400F pre-turbo. I had an original Callaway turbo diesel n/a engine, I put over 120K miles on it (rebuilt engine) and when I gave it away it was still running strong. 
You should be able to run 15psi of intercooled boost with no trouble, add fuel until you see a max temp of 1400F and then back it off a hair and you should be good to go. The only thing that will kill the engine is EGT' temps over 1400F and super oil temps. When you're flogging the engine..I would only watch the EGT gauge.



_Modified by eldorado at 10:50 AM 2-15-2007_


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (eldorado)*

I am in southern california on vacation right now... my vehicle of choice was the 82 Rabbit NA/TD. From my city in Utah to LA was over 600 miles. We stopped in Vegas to blow some cash in the Casinos, so the rabbit got a rest half way through, but the rabbit delivered 1.6L of turbocharged GERMAN hell for over 9 hours straight.... going up and down (BIGGG) hills, frequently maxing out the boost at 10psi. 
I have a 160 degree thermostat in the rabbit... in going up the big hills the temperature would spike at around 190-210 and going back down the hills, it would go down to 165-170 and run cool until the next hill came.
All this while getting 45mpg.
---------
Awesome information eldorado... stuff I like to hear. What kind of power does the 1.6 put down with 15psi, proper fueling and intercooler?


_Modified by 16VJohn at 8:54 PM 2-16-2007_


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

Just got back from the trip.... one of my damn injector lines broke in Corona... Lo and behold the ONLY part that I had left in my car from the junkyard trip was a set of injector lines.... holy crap. So yeah... shoved under the passenger seat hidden by mounds of In-N-Out burger wrappers was the set of fuel lines. It broke on the very end where it connects to the injector. I was just driving along the 91 minding my own business then the car started to loose power... my first impression was there was a dead cylinder... because it sounded like it was misfiring. I thought the engine had finally met it's match... 10psi on an NA engine in 85 degree weather. I just said screw it... I'll drive the car until the wheels fall off... I guess I'll have to rent a car to get back home. So we kept driving and I smelled diesel fuel... unburnt. So I pulled over just about a mile away from the VW dealership in Corona... popped the hood with the engine still running... diesel fuel spraying EVERYWHERE out of the 4th injector.
To put a long story short, I did the repair right there on the side of the road and went on my merry way. I did not experience any problems for the rest of the trip.
Total distance traveled: 1,496 miles
Average Fuel Consumption: 46.9mpg
Days Since the Turbo Conversion: 70
Leadfood Factor: 100%
I beat the SNOT out of this car on this trip... The hills on Interstate 15 are horrendous.... Up and down BIG hills for 9 hours straight.... The highest point of the trip was 6,700 feet and the lowest point was 0 feet.... Ohh and the car has a ****load more power at sea level.
Here are a few pictures from the trip.








The RAB in front of the world's largest thermometer.









The RAB in front of "Bob's Big Boy" in Baker, Ca.








We went and checked out the Calico Mining town... Pretty cool stuff.








A souvenir from Javier's Nursery in Rialto. A Mexican Fan Palm Tree.... Apparently, these are very hardy at temperatures as low as 5-10 degrees Fahrenheit.... I'm going to try to grow it in Utah... If all else fails, at least I'll have a cool palm tree for the summer!








The broken fuel line.










_Modified by 16VJohn at 10:06 PM 2-18-2007_


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## Malone (Oct 2, 2001)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

I enjoyed reading your posts.. 15 PSI intercooled should be fun. If you're serious about IDI performance and if you have a few more bucks, then you might want to get your pump done up by Giles. I have yet to see a DIY pump match up to his. If your NA motor blows, you can still put the pump on another engine and it'll be worth it in the long run.


----------



## burn_your_money (Oct 4, 2004)

*Re: (Malone)*

I'm defiantly getting a Giles pump as soon as mine starts to go








Looks like a fun trip Cody, you should have came to Ontario though


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## cdub58 (Sep 26, 2006)

*Re: (burn_your_money)*

nice trip man! around my neck of the woods too, glad to see its still going strong http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (cdub58)*

We drove past the exit for apple valley... Nice area.


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## carrizog60 (Sep 13, 2003)

i think if your engine was fine when n/a it should handle well the 15 psi.
i am running 30 psi and it holds fine.


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (carrizog60)*

After the california trip, I am certain the NA engine could handle 15-30 psi if you had a proper oil cooler and temperature gauges to keep things in line. I don't have any of the above mentioned installed right now... just a boost gauge. Granted, I don't floor it going up hills for 10 miles either.


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## carrizog60 (Sep 13, 2003)

"I don't floor it going up hills for 10 miles either."

its all that is needed to keep the engine running strong.
thats my only caution too.


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (carrizog60)*

The true 1.6TD engine I got a while back is all tore apart. I am doing a full rebuild with ARP hardware. I guess I am going to stick this in my 94 jetta and do something ridiculous. I think I'll look into getting my pump done too. What do you guys think the max boost a 1.6TD could handle with ARP hardware and a metal head gasket? I was thinking 30-35psi... might possibly need aftermarket rods for that.


----------



## burn_your_money (Oct 4, 2004)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

check on http://www.vwdiesel.net there are a few guys running close to that amount of boost on their 1.6s


----------



## Malone (Oct 2, 2001)

*Re: (16VJohn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16VJohn* »_The true 1.6TD engine I got a while back is all tore apart. I am doing a full rebuild with ARP hardware. I guess I am going to stick this in my 94 jetta and do something ridiculous. I think I'll look into getting my pump done too. What do you guys think the max boost a 1.6TD could handle with ARP hardware and a metal head gasket? I was thinking 30-35psi... might possibly need aftermarket rods for that.

At that PSI (or perhaps at least 140-150whp) your cylinder compression may leak into the coolant ports and you blow out the coolant tank. A few of us (me, andy2, smokeddub @ vwdiesel.net) just discovered this problem. The likely solution is to get the head o-ringed and then it may hold together just fine. You can use a stock headgasket (1.9L TD gasket strongly recommended) with o-rings. Copper head gaskets may be ordered from http://www.headgasket.com if the 1.9TD headgasket fails with o-rings, but it probably wont.
Try getting the head pre-chambers ceramic coated entirely, to reduce heat losses and to improve cold starting. Maybe do a deck modification (leaf shaped depressions around the valves, I don't remember what to call it though) to improve flow and to reduce compression a little bit. I'd recommend these if there's room in your budget.
You might want to find a 1.9TD head to bolt to your 1.6 block as it flows much better after porting.
Definitely get your pump done up by Giles. It's a very important piece to the TD performance puzzle. With his pump and even stock injectors, your car will haul. I had a 1.6TD in my 1997 Golf with a worked 1.9TD head and loved it. The stock rods were shot peened. I think they can hold up ok. The only real problem I had was holding compression in at 35-40 PSI. I had looked into o-ringing but I regret not doing it earlier. Still, wheelspin in 3rd gear at 4,000 RPM (no clutch dumps) on dry road was nothing sort of awesome!
I now have a TDI and I agree, the IDI's simplicity, sound, and powerband is still appealing. I hope to revive my IDI project sometime in the near future.
Cheers,
Mark


----------



## Malone (Oct 2, 2001)

*Re: (Malone)*

As for max boost with standard 1.9TD headgasket and properly torqued head studs, it depends on your airflow mods. With a simple intercooler, stock T3 or KKK K24 turbo, and maybe a little head porting, I'd say somewhere around 30 PSI is the safe maximum to _try_. 25 PSI for sure will be OK.


----------



## Rubba DuB-DuB (Dec 14, 2006)

*Re: (Malone)*

where did you get the intake tube and filter?


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

Wow malone... Fantastic reply. I've got some ideas for tweaking now. I think I will look into the posibility of doing o rings. I am going to shoot for 30psi and see what happens. I think I may try this on my NA engine at first so that I can see what to expect. That way, if I blow it up, I wont be out of a true TD engine... which was HELL finding one in Utah.
The intake tube is a factory intake hose from a 1986 Jetta. The filter is the standard rice boy filter from autozone (20 bucks).


----------



## zeroman (Nov 19, 2006)

good thread, i plan on turning my na 1.6 85 golf into a TD soon


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## Rubba DuB-DuB (Dec 14, 2006)

*Re: (zeroman)*

thanks john, i plan on doin this too. very good thread you have here! keep up the good work! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## rallydiesel (May 10, 2006)

This thread is GREAT!


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (rallydiesel)*

101 Days Since The Conversion.
I just recently bought a house in a town called Springville, Utah. I've been without internet for about a month now, so I have not been able to provide you guys with an update. About 2 weeks ago, I completely disconnected the wastegate line. At full fueling, 4500rpm, maxium accelleration, the boost gauge goes up to approx 22psi. I also plugged off the "overboost" valve. The fueling, boost and intercooler make for ONE HELL of a ride. You can REALLY hear the turbo through the intake once boost builds above 10-15. I would estimate this car has approx 90hp and 160ft lbs to the wheels with the equipment configured like it is. I know this because I blow the doors off my buddys chipped, cammed 2.0L 95 Golf. The rabbit is sooo light, I am spinning tires all the way through second gear.
All in all, the car is still very reliable and gets me to work every day. Just like clockwork.
No excessive blowby
ZERO oil consumption
EASY cold starts
46mpg
I am having VERY good results with this engine. I have beaten the crap out of this car, stressing every single thing I can stress. Just when I think it can't handle anymore, I decide to up the boost or fuel and it just keeps going. 
The next step is a custom downpipe, metal head gasket and a better clutch... It's starting to slip pretty bad with the added power.
Almost 1/3 of a year on baddass German BOOST with no hitches. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Rabbit TDi (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

werd. Glad to see that it is holding up!
I'm almost on the road. A week or two and I should be dialed for the most part.
My next project is a 1.9TD. I can't wait to smoke those gassers


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## jv-dub (Jan 2, 2005)

Great Post! I am glad to hear it is holding up through all the abuse/ enthusiastic use







I am looking to drop a TD from a Jetta into my caddy here in a couple months - I look forward to finally having some problems with clutch slippage!!! Needless to say i have not had any with the NA...


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (jv-dub)*

Yeah, the clutch slippage is really crazy... it wont slip 1-3 gears, but in 4th it you'll be full accelleration 20psi and all the sudden the rpms start to go up, but you arent going any faster. The torque is INSANE, but the hp lacks bigtime. You'll be ahead of your competition, then you shift gears and fall back 4 car lengths before you build max boost again. A smaller turbo, or possibly twin turbos would be ideal for this engine.
The plug came out of my "overboost" valve a couple days ago, and I couldnt get above 11psi without the valve opening.... You'll definatly want to plug the valve for the high performance applications.
What are some of you TD guys running on your max boost? I can't get the turbo to build past 20-21 psi, but I think that is because of my fueling. I had to revert back to the NA pump for technical reasons (but with the fuel screw turned way up).
How much boost can the k24 build with the wastegate shut? I was hoping atleast 25psi.


----------



## Rabbit TDi (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

Im not sure what turbo is in the other Rabbit but the BF was driving and he hit 26psi easy.


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (Rabbit TDi)*

I'd imaging that it's my fueling then. This weekend, I am taking the motor out of the rabbit and transplaning it into my cabby!!! I think while the motor is out, I might as well slap the turbo pump on there to take care of the smoking and high rpm fueling problem.


----------



## dvst8rcbr (May 24, 2005)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

With a stock pump I have pushed both the t3 and the k24 past 35psi, with a turned up stock pump.
I was running up an 8% grade foot to the floor, and had my boost controller malfunction (set at 28psi), heard the pitch of the turbo change from a whistle to a scream and looked at my autometer 35psi gauge to see the needle pined.
I can hit 25 psi no prob first gear.







Just takes some fuel.


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (dvst8rcbr)*

Interesting....... I am extremely motivated to get my turbo pump on there and see what kind of damage I can cause. In 1st gear I can barely hit 15psi, so I am sure that it's my fueling.


----------



## knowtwodrugs (Aug 21, 2005)

What pump are you running? I'm being told that the turbo is almost useless unelss you run the LDA, but I've never heard that before until now.


----------



## Malone (Oct 2, 2001)

*Re: (knowtwodrugs)*

The LDA (that makes a turbo pump) is important for fueling.
I ran both a stock NA pump with turned-up fuel screw and a Stage 4 Giles turbo pump in my 1.6L.
The turbo pump can kick the boost up to 40 PSI in 3rd gear easy. With the NA pump I don't think I was able to exceed ~15 PSI at any point. An otherwise stock turbo pump would get the boost up to 25 PSI or beyond for sure.
It was an aftermarket GT20 turbo by the way.. regardless this illustrates the significant difference between a NA and turbo pump.


_Modified by Malone at 7:31 AM 3-29-2007_


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (Malone)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Malone* »_The LDA (that makes a turbo pump) is important for fueling.
I ran both a stock NA pump with turned-up fuel screw and a Stage 4 Giles turbo pump in my 1.6L.
The turbo pump can kick the boost up to 40 PSI in 3rd gear easy. With the NA pump I don't think I was able to exceed ~15 PSI at any point. An otherwise stock turbo pump would get the boost up to 25 PSI or beyond for sure.
It was an aftermarket GT20 turbo by the way.. regardless this illustrates the significant difference between a NA and turbo pump.

_Modified by Malone at 7:31 AM 3-29-2007_

I think with the turbo pump I am going to start seeing some pretty ridiculous breakages... lol. With the NA pump I can hit 20-21psi on the highway on 4th gear.... It never goes above 16-17 in gears 1-3.
Ohh and damn! I was readying andy's thread on vwdiesel.net... THAT is amazing. That thread really motivated me to learn about o-rings and other stuff of the such.


----------



## got_16V (May 5, 2005)

You need to come by my house cody! I havent got a ride in the rabbit yet! I think the tranny might have broken in the GLI this morning. I havent really looked at it yet though.


----------



## dvst8rcbr (May 24, 2005)

*Re: (16VJohn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16VJohn* »_
I think with the turbo pump I am going to start seeing some pretty ridiculous breakages... lol. With the NA pump I can hit 20-21psi on the highway on 4th gear.... It never goes above 16-17 in gears 1-3.
Ohh and damn! I was readying andy's thread on vwdiesel.net... THAT is amazing. That thread really motivated me to learn about o-rings and other stuff of the such.

I have been down that road, yes breakage happens at a rappid pace, I wrecked 3 020's in like a month after I got my 6 puck clutch to hold the power. The last one that was pulled out 5th gear was in 3 pieces...








If you want to run anything bigger then a stock charger, or a stock charger with big fuel and a big intercooler. You will NEED to O-ring.


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (dvst8rcbr)*

Okay, so last night I installed my intercooler. Instead of installing the saab blackstone, I installed a smaller intercooler from a ford probe. Since the car is trash and I am removing the engine in a couple weeks, I used a sawzall to remove the entire front grille for easy, pain-free placement of my intercooler. Later today I might get some pictures of it... it's hillarious, and I am sure I will get flamed for it. But it only took me a few hours to rig it up.
I also permanently installed my turbo pump, but I seem to be having issues with that. I have never experienced surging, but I think that is the problem. You'll be in 4th gear cruising along at 40mph and you can feel the car accellerate (slighly) every once in a while without depressing the accellerator peddal.
Is this a symptom of a tired pump?
Also... is there any way to increase the LDA fueling? I turned the fuel screw up, but you can only do that so much, you know? Previously without the turbo pump I could easilly hit 17-18psi in 2nd gear, now I can barely get 15. I am sure there is some factor of pressure loss with the intercooler. Also, I am getting smoke, but it seems like no more power... Somewhere I heard the k24 on the 1.6 with turbo pump was capable of atleast 30psi, but I am having difficulty hitting 20 with the turbo pump.
It's hard to determine which is the cause of thise cause I installed the IC and the turbo pump at the same time. The intercooler from the probe is fairly large and I am using 2 inch charge plumbing that's approx 2 feet to the IC and 2 feet from the IC... approx 4 feet from turbo to intake manifold... I just have a hard time believing this is the cause of so much pressure loss... it has to be my fueling.
Thoughts?
On another note, the IC, as I said eariler, makes all the difference. Clutch problems have become a daily occurrence. I can't build full boost in 2nd - 5th without having slippage... Gotta make the swap into the cabby and use a bigger clutch!


_Modified by 16VJohn at 7:47 AM 4-1-2007_


----------



## jv-dub (Jan 2, 2005)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

As far as the surging, I would double check that all the pump hold down bolts (including that one on the right side) are fully tightened. I had similar issues with a pump until I realized that it was flexing on the plate due to a lose bolt. It felt tight, but there was enough play to be shifting the pump timing. I found this when the vibration broke a fuel line almost exactly where your was broken on your road trip...so perhaps that is the issue witht he surging...
As far as the IC , that is foreign territory for me, but I hope to be gaining experience with the details of forced induction soon - Jsut got my TD donor car over the weekend - but I'm going to drive it a little while now before I tear it appart for installation in the Caddy...
Let's see your frankenstein sawzall IC setup pics!


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (jv-dub)*

Ahhhhhhhhh allright.... the "frankenstein" pictures.... Enjoy... or flame... whatever you want.


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

Ohhh, and I also deleted the AC compressor and condensor to make room for everything. I used a junkyard alternator mount and alternator.


----------



## rallydiesel (May 10, 2006)

Oh my goodness, what a POS. I like it!


----------



## Junkyard Hero (Jan 18, 2005)

*Re: (rallydiesel)*

why dont you tell them whos driveway you made the mess in















did you post those parts for sale yet?>


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (rallydiesel)*

Yeah... it's a bigtime piece of crap... Engine runs REALLY good still, so it's worth keeping around until I can get motivated enough to swap the engine into the cabby.
Ohhh and thanks to Mat16V for letting me use his driveway and thanks to him for letting me beat the piss out of MkIV 1.8T... haha.


----------



## got_16V (May 5, 2005)

HA HA thats awesome!


----------



## burn_your_money (Oct 4, 2004)

*Re: (got_16V)*

LOL You took it to a new level with that one Cody


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (burn_your_money)*

18psi and still kicking. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## jajell (May 15, 2007)

What did the turbo, manifold, pan, and turbo IP run you from the boneyard?
I will be looking to do the same thing soon.
Thanks for the updates!


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (jajell)*

pump was 10 bucks, turbo and manifolds were about 50. I always go into the yard asking "how much do you want for a volkswagen fuel pump" and they think you are talking about an gasoline pump... then when you bring the injector pump to the front office you say "10 bucks, right?"... Technically it is a fuel pump.
Good luck with the swap.... it's a lot of fun!
Edit: ohhh and the oil pan is the stock NA pan... I just got the "GM heater hose NPT fitting" in the help section at checker, kragen or autozone. 
Don't bother with the factory pan.


_Modified by 16VJohn at 11:20 AM 5-22-2007_


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

First problems surface.
The bolts holding the turbo to the manifold fell out... back to good ole NA power, lol. Turbo is held in by the oil lines. Not really an issue with the conversion though.
The clutch is almost gone... I really have not been beating on it and the clutch is still going south. At 18psi this thing pumps out VR6 torque... too bad it doesnt rev to 6,800. I guess I could try the "govnah" mod.


----------



## tylernt (Dec 24, 2005)

*Re: (16VJohn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16VJohn* »_Edit: ohhh and the oil pan is the stock NA pan... I just got the "GM heater hose NPT fitting" in the help section at checker, kragen or autozone. 
Don't bother with the factory pan.
How is this heater hose connected to the oil pan? Did you use a bulkhead of some sort? Also, how did you connect the other end of the hose to the turbo? I will have this issue on my gasser-to-TD conversion too, so I'm looking for good solutions.
As for the N/A to TD thing... I hope you will be disassembling this engine at some point, so we can see if there is cylinder wall scoring, piston skirt scoring, burned exhaust valves, cracked prechambers, or other damage. The fact that the engine is still running doesn't really tell the whole story. Not gonna flame you as this is valuable research for the benefit of the VW community, either way it goes... so more power to you. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (tylernt)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tylernt* »_How is this heater hose connected to the oil pan? Did you use a bulkhead of some sort? Also, how did you connect the other end of the hose to the turbo? I will have this issue on my gasser-to-TD conversion too, so I'm looking for good solutions.
As for the N/A to TD thing... I hope you will be disassembling this engine at some point, so we can see if there is cylinder wall scoring, piston skirt scoring, burned exhaust valves, cracked prechambers, or other damage. The fact that the engine is still running doesn't really tell the whole story. Not gonna flame you as this is valuable research for the benefit of the VW community, either way it goes... so more power to you. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

I used a machined aluminum fitting from the "help" section at autozone or checker. The best I can describe is that it has threads on one side 3/4 and a "hose" connection on the other side with a lip. Drilled a hole in the oil pan 3/4, threaded the fitting in, welded all the way around it on bolt sides and sealed the deal with some RTV on the outside. It's very redneckish, but it works just fine. On the turbo side I used the factory audi 5k oil line, I just used a hack saw to cut it off about 3 inches way from the turbo. Clamped the heater hose line to this factory bit and the other to the "help" fitting and I haven't had any leaks to date.
If you took the time to make real oil lines that would be better. The rubber hose will get soft over time and eventually I'll have to replace it... ($1.50 for more heater hose) and 10 mins to swap the hose out. Function over form, I guess??? anyway....
A "running" diesel tells a lot, I think. This thing makes VR6 torque. It fires right up in the morning. No excessive blowby. Low oil consumption (about 1/2 qt every 3000). I have been trying to break this thing since day 1 and the only thing that has broken is my damn clutch that won't hold the extra power. When the engine does meet it's fate (if it ever does) you better believe that I will tear the hole thing apart... I am going to document all of it on this thread.
Just remember, I drive this thing to work every day. I frequently tow a trailer when I mow lawns (probably doesn't help the clutch, hahah







) I've been off roading. I've been to California and back. I don't treat it nicely and I sure as hell don't give it the maintenance that it needs.
The point I am trying to make is that if somebody were to do this (correctly) and not ******* engineer the project, didn't beat the crap out of it, didn't tow trailers and changed the oil more frequently than 9,000 miles.... you could easily make a converted NA last years and years. For reliability and economy reasons I would probably not run any more than 10psi on the motor, though I have had success running 18psi for the past quarter. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## tylernt (Dec 24, 2005)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

Thanks for the oil line info!
It's cool that nothing has failed catastrophically. However the jury is still out, as far as I am concerned, about the longevity of such a conversion. VW engineers to not add stuff on a whim, they have to keep costs low so they only add extra stuff where (they think) extra stuff is needed. The conversion might be fine for 10,000 or maybe 100,000 miles before something lets go or wears out. And really, who cares if this is a beater car just for fun -- but some people want their engines to last a long time.
Like I said, I'm not flaming, just waiting on the final verdict before passing judgment.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (tylernt)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tylernt* »_Thanks for the oil line info!
It's cool that nothing has failed catastrophically. However the jury is still out, as far as I am concerned, about the longevity of such a conversion. VW engineers to not add stuff on a whim, they have to keep costs low so they only add extra stuff where (they think) extra stuff is needed. The conversion might be fine for 10,000 or maybe 100,000 miles before something lets go or wears out. And really, who cares if this is a beater car just for fun -- but some people want their engines to last a long time.
Like I said, I'm not flaming, just waiting on the final verdict before passing judgment.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Dammit... I've been trying to get people to flame me but it aint' working. haha... No it's all good. It is a clunker. If I cared about the car it wouldn't be running 18psi with the whole front end hacked up. Just an old beater for research. Keeping the miles off the MB.
BTW, correction on my last post... I used the 86 jetta TD oil line for the return.. cutting that off 3 inches after the turbo. The audi 5k setup is what I put on my jetta... (did the same thing with those oil lines as well.)
Cheers


----------



## bevboyy (Apr 20, 2007)

Did you do anything to the head, like use TD valves or is it a plain NA head?


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (bevboyy)*

The motor is 100% bone stock NA. I did replace the headgasket with a metal 1.9 one.
Added Equipment
Intake Manifold (86 Jetta TD)
Exhaust Manifold (86 Jetta TD)
K24 Turbo (86 Jetta TD) 
Factory Downpipe (86 Jetta TD)
The stock "toilet bowl" exhaust pipe from the NA setup. (on this I had to remove the heat shields to get it to clear the shifter linkage)
Autozone Rice Boy Air Filter
Factory molded rubber (Air Filter to Turbo) hose. (86 Jetta TD)
90 Degree elbow for intake tract (86 Jetta TD)
Crush Bent Exhaust Pipe For Intake hoses
92 Ford Probe Intercooler (doesn't work very well on rabbits unless you "get rid" of your radiator support).
1.6 TD Injector Pump (86 Jetta TD)



_Modified by 16VJohn at 9:25 PM 6-13-2007_


----------



## bevboyy (Apr 20, 2007)

So now, how much boost are you running currently on that combo?


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (bevboyy)*

Edit: I'm using the k24 turbo, not the k26. Keep getting this mixed up with my 8v gasser turbo setup.
Currently running 18psi. Engine blows small amounts of black smoke all the way through the rev band, which I guess means there is more fuel than air at 18psi. I guess my limit is the k24 turbo. On a long pull in 4th gear I could possibly hit 19, but not under regular conditions. I am considering the idea of sticking the k26 on there which is much larger.... Only thing is I would probably have no power until half way through the rev band, but I'll bet I could hit 20-25 psi if I did the "govnah" mod. I think anything more than 20 would probably break **** though.


----------



## bevboyy (Apr 20, 2007)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

18psi







Impressive. What were your egt's at?


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (bevboyy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bevboyy* »_18psi







Impressive. What were your egt's at?

18 psi is the highest I could get the turbo to push... I cut the wastegate line and plugged the "overboost" valve to achieve this pressure.
Don't know what the EGT's were as I never installed a pyro. It was obviously in an acceptable range to continue running as long as it did.
--------
Bad news however. Today, the converted motor met it's demise. Not because of the conversion, but because I am a dumb ass. I ate lunch at the Red Lobster. As I parked in the parking stall, the concrete "parking barrier" made contact with a "quick flush" heater hose I had installed, which slightly hung down in front of the oil pan. The concrete barrier pinched and broke the hose.
I drove it from Red Lobster to the highway on ramp without knowing there was no coolant in the motor. This is a total distance of several miles.
I floored it as I was getting on the 15. Belches of black smoke coming out the pipe but no more speed. I looked down at the cluster to see what the matter was and the temperature gauge had pegged on the right side. I immediately shut the engine off and pulled over to the side. Popped the hood to find that the engine was sooooo hot that grease buildup on the head was starting to smoke as it burned off.
The radiator was cold. No coolant in the motor at all.
I had to get back to work, so I fixed the hose with spare bits and now I needed coolant. I had a gallon of cheap windshield washer fluid and 2 bottles of Dasani in the back. I dumped all that in the coolant resivior and went on my way hoping I could get back to work in time.
It ran hot all the way back, just below red on temp gauge. But the car got me all the way back to work. About 6 miles running on the windshield washer fluid as coolant.
I shut the car off in the parking lot at work as I pulled the plug out of my flush drain to get all the windshield washer fluid out. I put water in to replace it and the engine seems to run fine, but it is now making a slight whining noise which is probably a rod bearing.
The only thing that REALLY pisses me off about this is that the damage from the heat today will make it impossible to tell what damage came from today or what came from the turbo.
At any rate I will continue to drive the car (if it will still do cold starts) until the engine starts to knock. Once the engine is completetly DEAD I will tear it down and take pictures for everybody.
Sorry it had to end this way peeps... It's been fun. Thanks for all the compliments, ideas and comments.
I'll keep you posted.










_Modified by 16VJohn at 1:25 PM 6-15-2007_


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## bevboyy (Apr 20, 2007)

Now that really sucks. I have been enjoying your posts. Pity it ended that way. That's what you get for eating at Red Lobster!!


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (bevboyy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bevboyy* »_Now that really sucks. I have been enjoying your posts. Pity it ended that way. That's what you get for eating at Red Lobster!!

Ok... wtf. I just went out this morning and it fired right up... Sounded the exact same as it did yesterday before all hell broke loose. It doesn't appear to be burning any oil and still has power like a bat out of hell. If this car continues to run after what happened that seals the deal. I will never buy anything other than a Volkswagen ever again. 
I will continue to drive it and keep you posted.


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## bevboyy (Apr 20, 2007)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

Awesome! It riseth from the land of the nearly dead! You got me convinced, I just started the conversion today...


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (bevboyy)*

The extra heat has caused a pinhole leak in the coolant resivior. I will be swapping that out for a spare one today. I need to test to see if the head gasket is gone by doing the cold start up "pressure in the resivior" test.
Oooooooooooooo... Starting the conversion today eh? Let me know if you run into any problems. You won't regret it, man.


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## bevboyy (Apr 20, 2007)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

The only snag I have reached was one of the studs on the turbo downpipe flange snapped off, so I have drill and tap it out. Other than that it's been easy. Only thing is the removal of the manifolds, especially the exhaust. Gets tricky near cylinder 3...I'll post pics of build tomorrow..


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (bevboyy)*

Make sure to use anti seize on the downpipe bolts and all the manifold studs... Just don't break an easy out in the turbo or you'll be sorry... remember the only thing harder than an easy out is a carbide drill bit. I did that to a k26... badddd news. Get your easy out ready and then put an ice cube on the turbo near the break and that will help free the broken bolt. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 16VJohn at 7:20 PM 6-17-2007_


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## bevboyy (Apr 20, 2007)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

It's not really that bad, it's on the hot side of the housing, where it bolts to the manifold. I'll get it out...


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## Malone (Oct 2, 2001)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

Are you still going to pop a TD motor in if your NA motor goes?


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (Malone)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Malone* »_Are you still going to pop a TD motor in if your NA motor goes?

No... the rabbit is rubbish. I'd rather die than fix this car. I still have that true TD motor which I am debating on installing into my 91 Jetta. Before I do that I think I'll convert this motor too and see how many miles I can get out of it before the true TD swap is necessary. If I do convert this motor, I'll take measures to make it last longer.... Make real oil lines, add the volvo oil cooler, run about 7 or 8 psi, etc.....
Yeah, the motor in the rabbit is gone... I've already started taking the turbo equipment off. I think the over heat caused the head gasket to blow cause I can't keep the engine in a decent temperature range anymore. The motor still runs though. I am going to pull the motor out and send the rabbit to the crusher.


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## bevboyy (Apr 20, 2007)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

You didn't mention injectors. You were using the stock 130 bar n/a injectors right? or did you swap the TD's in. Did you adjust the TD pump timing?


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (bevboyy)*

The entire motor was bone stock except for the turbo, manifolds and pump. Stock NA injectors.


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

Okay, I just tore the motor apart. There is ZERO cylinder wall scarring. Valves appear to be fine. Cracks inbetween valves. (Isn't this typpical?). I do recal there being no cracks between the valves when I did the head gasket (prior to boost).
I've got some pictures that I will probably post in a few days.


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## irons (Jul 26, 2007)

this is a good read. I will be attempting to do this too now. i need some more power out of my 1.6na


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## Malone (Oct 2, 2001)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

These cracks in the head is definitely normal as long as they don't get too deep. That's cool to hear your motor's still good.


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (Malone)*

Thanks Malone,
Yeah... the cracks are very small... I dont' know how I would tell how deep they are. When the cracks get too deep I guess that would cause some loss in compression in a few different ways?
The rabbit is pure TRASH. I basically stripped the whole car of anything that was worth anything and I am sending the rabbit to the crusher soon. I think I'll be sending the bottom end with the car, partly because I don't want to pull the motor. I've got my 91 Jetta which is NA, but I am going to throw some turbo equipment on that, but I'll spend more time and money on this conversion. I'll definitely add the volvo cooler, appropriate gauges, etc.
Anyway... I should get those pictures up. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## RogueTDI (Dec 12, 2002)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! (16VJohn)*

Hah! I dreamt of doing this on my 81 of the same type. Can't wait to hear how i goes.


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (16VJohn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16VJohn* »_
Anyway... I should get those pictures up. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Here's the pictures of the cracks... You can see some weird circular "lines" on some of the valves, but I assume those are casting lines.



































_Modified by 16VJohn at 8:13 AM 8-4-2007_


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## dizzyswimmer (Aug 20, 2006)

I have an 85 Golf that was getting some work done. Rebuilt Injector pump. They bent a valve when setting the timeing on the car. Pulled the head and sent it to a machine shop. The shop started cleaning the head and found some cracks like these, stopped sent the head back to the shop. It's still there with a bent valve in it, they telling me I need a new head. This car ran great when I took it in. Think I just need them to fix the valve or do I need a new head ??????? Sorry to here your motor is toasted !


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## RabbitJockey (Nov 25, 2004)

those cracks are extremely common, honestly i have only seen one 1.6 head that didn't have those and thats because it was all but brand new. as long as your coolant wasn't pressurizing and you weren't getting water in the cylinders then the head is good.


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re:*


_Quote, originally posted by *dizzyswimmer* »_ I have an 85 Golf that was getting some work done. Rebuilt Injector pump. They bent a valve when setting the timeing on the car. Pulled the head and sent it to a machine shop. The shop started cleaning the head and found some cracks like these, stopped sent the head back to the shop. It's still there with a bent valve in it, they telling me I need a new head. This car ran great when I took it in. Think I just need them to fix the valve or do I need a new head ??????? Sorry to here your motor is toasted !

Yeah... After doing my own research I have found that this affects all turbo motors and 9 out of 10 N/A motors. The cracks are fine, just like Malone said... as long as they are not too deep, then you are fine. Too deep is where it's cracked where the valve seats to the head. The cracks in mine go less than 1mm down, so they are fine. Don't let that shop give you the run around... They broke it, and they better fix it.


----------



## Big Bore (Aug 12, 2007)

Any updates etc on your turboed n/a engine mod?


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (Big Bore)*

No updates yet... I am getting ready to do the swap on the 91 Jetta... Just gotta find some time.


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

TADA!!! the 91 Jetta is now a TD! I did the swap yesterday with excellent results. Since my last post I got another complete TD engine, but I decided to convert the existing diesel that was in the car. I love it... everything bolted right up and even the existing exhaust was compatible with the downpipe this time.... PLUG N' PLAY! Here are some picture of the swap. Everything is factory equipment from an 86 Jetta TD. I also added the factory heat exchanger to the mix this time. The water lines are not connected, but I will do that within the next few days. The swap is still very dirty... There is oil on just about everything because of a failed valve cover gasket from before. I also used the factory oil lines this time as well... Anyway... I'll keep you posted!


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

The TD conversion is still running great... Tomorrow marks the 1 week conversion anniversary.







. .I can't seem to get the turbo to boost over 9psi. The overboost valve is plugged off and the wastegate line is clamped shut. This is the same turbo I used on the rabbit, so I know it's capable of the 19-20psi.... So I figure it must be the fueling. I turned the fuel screw up as high as I wanted the car to idle, and the LDA is hooked up... but I think the boost inrichement internals might be stuck or bugned up or something... So I'll have to take it apart and make sure everything is moving correctly.
The car is much faster, as I predicted. The butt dyno feels like an extra 25hp and an extra 35ft lbs at 9 or 10 psi.
I can actually do some decent acceleration in 5th gear and most of the smoking has been eliminated.
Updates to come.


----------



## burn_your_money (Oct 4, 2004)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

Have you tried running open turbo yet to see if it is the exhaust?


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (burn_your_money)*

On the rabbit I ran the factory downpipe, toilet bowl and 2 feet of standard 1 3/4 inch pipe... after that I ran 3 inch pipe to change the sound of the exhaust... it was all straight pipe though. With that setup I was able to hit 19psi on my rabbit... So I'll probably do the mufflerectomy today and see if I can hit at least 15psi. The timing belt is due for a change anyway... so I think I'll probably switch a true turbo pump in there when I make the swap. Right now I just have a modified "altitude LDA".


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

DAMMMIT! Whenever I get near 10psi the car makes a faint hissing noise. Part of me wants to believe that this is boost leaking out.... but I DON'T KNOW WHERE FROM!!!


















































The only time I have ever had a 1.6TD it has been straight piped... and a little loud. This car has a full exhaust and full oem intake, so it's MUCH quieter than my 1.6TD's previous... Maybe the hissing is normal? Does anybody elses stock 1.6TD make a sort-of.... hissing under full acceleration at around 10psi?


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## sriracha (Aug 6, 2007)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

wow. awesome R&D and write up.
i've been wanting to swap a 1.6TD into my gas '82 caddy for some time now, but all the TD's i'm seeing are $$$$$. maybe a 1.6D with the bolt on snail is the way to go....
thanks for experimenting and posting about it.
btw, i swamped my 1.7gas caddy, driving thru a 4foot deep puddle (stupid move, didn't know it was that deep). i pushed the caddy out of the puddle, let it drain for a bit, then fired 'er right up. she's been driving for at least 2 years since, with no problems. these little vdub engines are bomber.


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (sriracha)*

Thanks!
Anyways... no news on the 91 TD yet... still working great. I'm still having that problem blowing oil out the crankcase vent, I have just been too lazy to fix it. This weekend, I will probably swap valve covers. I've got a valve cover from a gasoline 8V that has the hockey puck looking UFO thing on top of the valve cover. I'll also stick an oil baffle in there. I figure both of those should stop or prevent most of the oil from blowing out. Seems like I only have problems when I go over 75mph though. The valve cover gasket needs to be replaced anyway... and I guess since the valve cover is going to be off, I might as well change the timing belt... and if I am going to change the timing belt, I might as well stick a TD pump on there too.
This weekend: TD Pump, Timing Belt, Valve Cover Gasket, Oil Baffle, Gasoline Valve Cover, 3 Cans of Engine Degreaser + Carwash http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## sprstu (Dec 5, 2006)

if i didnt need to do the t-belt and head gasket on my caddy I would totally be doing this on sunday as I have a turbo and exhaust mani just sitting around. but i really need to do some engine work before I go crazy on anything like this. great post though, gives people hope.


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (sprstu)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sprstu* »_great post though, gives people hope. 

Hahahaha... YES! I was mostly just trying to disprove those who said bad results would happen. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
But man... you have a caddy. I am jealous. That is one car I have yet to drive. I bought a caddy but never got to drive it before I had to get rid of it. I need a truck anyway, so maybe I can talk the old lady into letting me buy one. Have you ever towed anything with your caddy?


_Modified by 16VJohn at 7:40 AM 9-27-2007_


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## redmondjp (May 25, 2004)

*Re: (16VJohn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16VJohn* »_Thanks!
Anyways... no news on the 91 TD yet... still working great. I'm still having that problem blowing oil out the crankcase vent, I have just been too lazy to fix it. This weekend, I will probably swap valve covers. I've got a valve cover from a gasoline 8V that has the hockey puck looking UFO thing on top of the valve cover. I'll also stick an oil baffle in there. I figure both of those should stop or prevent most of the oil from blowing out. Seems like I only have problems when I go over 75mph though. The valve cover gasket needs to be replaced anyway... 

Excessive oil out the crankcase vent (esp. at higher speeds) is a sign that your rings are wearing out--if it gets bad enough, it can cause engine runaway. I wouldn't count on the baffle and the puck to completely solve this issue.
On the valve cover gasket, switch to the one-piece rubber one (which I believe is used on the G60 engine) which requires studs in place of the bolts. Way better sealing than the multiple-piece set.


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (redmondjp)*

Don't all 8V's have studs instead of bolts? Yeah, this engine is getting a little tired. Over 160k right now. Engine can't run away if crankcase ventilation vents to atmosphere


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## Cyrus #1 (Sep 29, 2005)

*Re: (16VJohn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16VJohn* »_Don't all 8V's have studs instead of bolts?

The regular 8v ones have a shoulder that lines up the gasket. The G60 ones have no shoulder as the gasket has metal rings that do the lining. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (Cyrus #1)*

Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh of course... I know what you mean now. A while back I had some big problems with the front/center part of the gasket squishing back into the head after I torqued it down... but that was a cheap cork gasket too though.


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## sprstu (Dec 5, 2006)

the VW specs say only 600lbs of towing and 600lbs in the bed, so thats not a whole lot of options for pulling anything. I have used my truck to move motorcycles around but have never hooked up a trailer. I cant see why you couldnt pull more with a little more power, larger front brakes and some stiffer leaf springs.


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (sprstu)*

I had a home made trailer (the ones that you make from the bed of a truck). It was full of top soil... probably over 2,000 lbs of top soil. In my old 84 rabbit TD I was able to tow the soil around just fine... I mean, you don't really want to go very fast, but it had enough power to get going a good 40mph and enough brakes to stop the setup from 40. I only did this because I didn't care about my rabbit, and I probably wouldn't attempt this much weight again... Although I would consider towing a car on a car dolly.


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

I installed the oil baffle and the PCV "puck" and that virtually eliminated my oil blowby problem... after 350 miles the catch can just has some residue inside.
The car is having trouble starting, and I don't think it's because of compression. I think my fuel pump is on the fritz. I recall having crazy cold start issues with my rabbit when the return fuel lines were cracked and getting air in the system. I don't know it's almost impossible to start because of this, but I have a feeling my pump is on the fritz or may have jumped a tooth. We'll have to see.


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## zukgod1 (Feb 19, 2007)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

Give me a call if you decide to do a quick overhaul on your pump Cody, We can get a differant cam and plunger if you really want fuel or we can just use stock stuff.
You've helped me out enough times I would have no problem assisting you with it.
I also have a compression checker if your just curious.
Dan


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (zukgod1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zukgod1* »_Give me a call if you decide to do a quick overhaul on your pump Cody, We can get a differant cam and plunger if you really want fuel or we can just use stock stuff.
You've helped me out enough times I would have no problem assisting you with it.
I also have a compression checker if your just curious.
Dan

Hellz yeah... except I don't know if it's worth overhauling... I have 4 N/A pumps and 3 turbo pumps. I'd like to overhaul the turbo pump if anything. Did you do the "govnah" mod on that pump? Might as well take care of that while we are in there. I've also got a mysterious oil leak and it's irritating the hell out of me... I have a feeling it might be the main seal cause the flywheel has some residue on it.








Edit:
Also, for sake of documenting my research, I did the "mufflerectomy" cutting off the main rear muffler leaving only the tiny resonator and about 5 feet of pipe. Because of this I am able to hit 13psi now instead of just above 10. I have a pretty good feeling that if I make a better downpipe and run a 2.75" straightpipe out the side I should be able to hit 15-20psi. But before I do that I'll intercool.


_Modified by 16VJohn at 2:44 PM 10-9-2007_


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## zukgod1 (Feb 19, 2007)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

Lets just look at your TD pumps and pick the cleanest one with the largest Plunger and go from there.
Gov mod= easy as pie....
The oil leak may be due to blow-by? 160k maybe there is enough crankcase pressure to blow it past the hard seal.
Lets do this, lets take one of he other TD engine you have and do a rebuild. 
We can do the pump thing first so your car is drivable in the meantime but having a fresh TD engine awaiting install in something is kinda fun, I mean heck I've had mine sitting there for a good 5 months








I'll call ya on my way through tonight, I have to stop in the South end of Provo so I will just take the old road through town.
dan


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (zukgod1)*

Sounds good. You think it would be worth trying a compression test on one of the TD engines before we tear into it? What kind of pressure should these be showing? 400psi?


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## Cyrus #1 (Sep 29, 2005)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

The wear limit is 412 according to the Bentley. New engines should be 493 psi.


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (Cyrus #1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cyrus #1* »_The wear limit is 412 according to the Bentley. New engines should be 493 psi.

Wear limit meaning time to rebuild?


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## tylernt (Dec 24, 2005)

*Re: (16VJohn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16VJohn* »_Wear limit meaning time to rebuild?
Pretty much, assuming your cam timing and valve clearances are correct. It'll probably still run fine in the summer below that, but winter starts will become difficult or impossible. You might be able to prolong the inevitable with a block heater.


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## zukgod1 (Feb 19, 2007)

Didnt make it by tonight man sorry, like you didnt know huh?
I ended up in Provo installing a water pump on a 300E Merc for a friend in need.
We'll hook up this week and come up with a plan.
dan


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (zukgod1)*

The new takes away the old... The rabbit was the TD mentioned earlier in this thread and the jetta towing it is the new one. The Jetta towed the rabbit at 50mph with ease!!! The scale at the junkyard said the total weight was 5,950lbs! Torque FTW! Sorry for the crude photos... cell phone.


































_Modified by 16VJohn at 10:53 AM 10-13-2007_


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## zukgod1 (Feb 19, 2007)

Did you leave that block in there Cody?

dan


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## DoWnAqT (Sep 18, 2006)

*Re: (zukgod1)*

just curious on where everyone is getting these swaps...Im thinking of doing one, and would like to know where you can get the manifolds and what not. Im sure I'm the only one who has asked this







Also what is everyones top speed in this rabbit diesal truck..Both n/a and turbo
Thanks
brad


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (DoWnAqT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DoWnAqT* »_just curious on where everyone is getting these swaps...Im thinking of doing one, and would like to know where you can get the manifolds and what not. Im sure I'm the only one who has asked this







Also what is everyones top speed in this rabbit diesal truck..Both n/a and turbo
Thanks
brad

I found all of my parts in the junkyard... You should be able to find a few in the junkyard in the New England area, but you might have to make a trip across the border. It seems like there is always somebody selling the needed parts... drop burn_your_money a pm, I know he has parts and he might cut you a deal.
In the truck? I dunno... it would depend on your transmission and how much flat, straight road you have







. My 91 Jetta couldn't go any faster than 91mph when it was NA, and she was screaming pretty hard then. Now that it is turbo, I can get it above 100mph, but I think that's approaching red line.


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

I was having really bad cold starting issues and I thought the engine was done for. Not so. The starter was shot. It wasn't turning the engine over fast enough. Anyway, I replaced the starter with the starter from my Rabbit. The starter from the rab looks like a starter from a v8 truck. It's huge. I figure since it looks like it has a bigger motor maybe it will turn the engine over faster. I also checked the battery and it's still putting out a fair amount of juice. I went out this morning and it started up like it was nobody's business. So... fixed that issue.
Now, I had the crankcase blowby venting to the atmosphere to prevent runaways. Only problem wish this is the entire under carriage of the car would get COATED with oil and leave dozens of oil drippages everywhere I parked. So last night, I installed a valve cover from a 1.8L digifant Jetta. This included the oil baffle and the black hockey puck looking thing (oil scavenger?). With these extra measures I thought it was safe to reconnect the blowby to the intake hose and burn that blowby off inside the engine. 
Everything appears to be working as planned now. I will keep my eye on oil consumption and give everyone an update in a few weeks.


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## Malone (Oct 2, 2001)

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## averyniceperson (Jan 20, 2004)

Hey I was really inspired by your thread here, but Im surprised people would say diesel wouldn't do good being turbo. A diesel takes a turbo way better than gas. to some of those people I might say, if they don't understand you putting turbo on the 1.6, then I don't understand why they drive a gas motor or a diesel without a turbo. I got a 99 tdi 2 door golf that I put some nice nozzles in and a chip. with the stock turbo it performs like it doubled the power of the car. It made me really wonder why they put a tdi out with 90 hp. if you do a little bit to it and it performs way quicker than a 1.8t. what really got me so excited about your thread is cause I was looking for info on how I could turbo a 1.6 diesel for a nice rust free 88 cabriolet I have. thanks for sharing all the info


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## tylernt (Dec 24, 2005)

*Re: (averyniceperson)*


_Quote, originally posted by *averyniceperson* »_A diesel takes a turbo way better than gas. 

Agreed.

_Quote »_but Im surprised people would say diesel wouldn't do good being turbo
I never said that. But think about why VW would go to the trouble (and expense) of using an improved alloy for the cylinder head, sodium-filled exhaust valves, piston oil squirters, and an oil cooler for the factory turbodiesel? Because the exhaust backpressure added by the turbo, the increased heat from burning more fuel, and the increased peak cylinder pressures are hell (Biblically speaking; a very hot place) on engine components. Heads warp; exhaust valves stretch, deform, and burn; pistons expand and drag on the cylinder walls under sustained loads; oil breaks down and cokes in the turbo bearings (admittedly, synthetic oil makes this less of an issue these days). I have no doubt that you can put FI on *any* engine and it will last for a "while". But will it last 300,000 miles or more like the factory configuration? That's why they come with the upgrades from the factory -- VW doesn't want a bunch of warranty repairs.
For an enthusiast looking for a cheap thrill, there's nothing wrong with turbocharging a N/A engine, as long as there's no expectation of factory reliability and longevity. Maybe such a conversion will last 10,000 miles, maybe it will last 100,000. Some racers do an engine rebuild after every race, and that's normal. Show me a turbocharged N/A motor still going strong after a few hundred thousand miles though, and I'll gladly admit I was wrong and VW's engineers wasted a lot of resources on those turbo upgrades.


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (tylernt)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tylernt* »_
Agreed.
I never said that. But think about why VW would go to the trouble (and expense) of using an improved alloy for the cylinder head, sodium-filled exhaust valves, piston oil squirters, and an oil cooler for the factory turbodiesel? Because the exhaust backpressure added by the turbo, the increased heat from burning more fuel, and the increased peak cylinder pressures are hell (Biblically speaking; a very hot place) on engine components. Heads warp; exhaust valves stretch, deform, and burn; pistons expand and drag on the cylinder walls under sustained loads; oil breaks down and cokes in the turbo bearings (admittedly, synthetic oil makes this less of an issue these days). I have no doubt that you can put FI on *any* engine and it will last for a "while". But will it last 300,000 miles or more like the factory configuration? That's why they come with the upgrades from the factory -- VW doesn't want a bunch of warranty repairs.
For an enthusiast looking for a cheap thrill, there's nothing wrong with turbocharging a N/A engine, as long as there's no expectation of factory reliability and longevity. Maybe such a conversion will last 10,000 miles, maybe it will last 100,000. Some racers do an engine rebuild after every race, and that's normal. Show me a turbocharged N/A motor still going strong after a few hundred thousand miles though, and I'll gladly admit I was wrong and VW's engineers wasted a lot of resources on those turbo upgrades.









Your argument deviates from what I originally set out to disprove and I think you kind of missed the point. The added expense and engineering OBVIOUSLY serves a purpose. As I said earlier: 

_Quote, originally posted by *16VJohn* »_
I am certain the extra measures implemented by Volkswagen to withstand the "extra temperatures" were a engineering measure set in place to be absolutely certain there would be no "over heat" issues that would damage the engine or affect longevity. 

I think these extra engineering measures were for the few people who would put the pedal to the metal going up a hill for 10 miles. Any car should be built to withstand any condition thrown at it or people will start bitching about stuff breaking (even if it was their fault). 
I respectfully disagree with your opinion on longevity. Based on the mileage of my engines, the way I treat my cars and the 20psi I run I believe that any converted diesel could go several hundred thousand *IF KEPT PROPERLY.* I don't have proof that the engine will last a long time in it's converted state, but as long as my car is running, this thread will exist. I add 100miles to the odometer every day, so we'll see how things play out.
Really though, I didn't turbocharge this diesel because I wanted it to last 250,000+ miles. I added the turbo because I was sick of 38whp, the engines are a dime a dozen (cost of replacement $75 and a weekend) and I like the sound of turbos. 
Ferrari engines only last about 50,000 miles... does that make them ****ty? No. It means they are purpose built supercars... Not economy cars built to last several hundred thousand miles. The longevity of an engine depends on thousands of criteria. Most of which are their application, usage, care and maintenance.
My goal was to show people that it CAN and SHOULD be done. More specifically to show the crybabies that their predictions of "instant engine apocalypse" were wish-wash.


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## tylernt (Dec 24, 2005)

*Re: (16VJohn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16VJohn* »_My goal was to show people that it CAN and SHOULD be done. More specifically to show the crybabies that their predictions of "instant engine apocalypse" were wish-wash.

That's cool. I'm glad someone did it so we have proof it is possible. Like I said,

_Quote, originally posted by *tylernt* »_For an enthusiast looking for a cheap thrill, there's nothing wrong with turbocharging a N/A engine, as long as there's no expectation of factory reliability and longevity.

I.e., you wouldn't want to sell your turbocharged N/A to a soccer mom who's going to grenade it by flooring it uphill for 10 miles.


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (tylernt)*

Well put. I agree, but I think that any high performance car in the wrong hands (soccer mom) could grenade going up a hill, floored for 10 miles... The converted NA engine will do it sooner, but any high performance car driven incorrectly or maintained improperly will have longevity issues. I don't think anyone would debate the fact that turbocharging puts a lot of extra stress on the engine and accelerates engine wear... so telling somebody not to sell a turbo'ed NA to a soccer mom is kind of relative to the point. If the soccer mom can handle it, there's nothing wrong with it.


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## tylernt (Dec 24, 2005)

*Re: (16VJohn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16VJohn* »_If the soccer mom can handle it, there's nothing wrong with it.








If she has an EGT gauge and knows how to use it, that will go a long way too.


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## zukgod1 (Feb 19, 2007)

*Re: (tylernt)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tylernt* »_If she has an EGT gauge and knows how to use it, that will go a long way too.










HAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!!
My wife looks at the gas gauge when the light comes on. I cant imagine putting her my car and turn her loose.
SCARY








Good point though guys and Cody keep the thread going.


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## chappiesGL (Jun 6, 2007)

*Re: (zukgod1)*

dude your car is awesome i wish my diesel was like that but i got a question, last night my lower control arm broke off of my car but the thing is, is that it rusted off at the cross member and I was just wondering if its a common thing for them to rust out like that?


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (chappiesGL)*


_Quote, originally posted by *chappiesGL* »_dude your car is awesome i wish my diesel was like that but i got a question, last night my lower control arm broke off of my car but the thing is, is that it rusted off at the cross member and I was just wondering if its a common thing for them to rust out like that?









I have no idea... that might be a better question asked in the mark 2 forum. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## chappiesGL (Jun 6, 2007)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

alrighty then thanx


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (chappiesGL)*

An update!
My Jetta is still doing great. The blowby has not increased since I added the turbo. The engine was already pretty tired before the turbo, but I haven't witnessed any ill effects from the turbo. I'm running about 20psi with no intercooler. It pulls pretty hard considering it's just a 1.6 with 200,000 miles on it. It does 0-60 in about 11.5 seconds.
My final conclusion is that any NA engine can be modified to run a turbo. Keep your temperatures in check, don't overheat the engine and keep an eye on the EGT if you are running lots of fuel and boost. To put it into prospective:
-1.6 NA diesel with added OEM turbo equipment. (200,000 miles)
-1.6 NA injection pump with the fuel screw turned in (a lot!)
-No oil cooler of any kind
-20psi, no intercooler
-No EGT or oil temp gauge
-15-40 conventional oil with 4,000 mile change interval.
-35-45 mpg consistent
I haven't taken ANY precautions to keep temperatures down. I simply added the turbo, cut the wastegate line, turned the fuel screw in and have been driving it for months as is. I haven't experienced any abnormal engine wear. The car is as reliable and fuel efficient as ever.
A highly recommended mod to any 1.6NA. The turbo REALLY does complete this engine. I wouldn't think of going back to NA.... EVER! The powerband is so much more usable. More power (where it counts) and better economy. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Northern RD (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/....html
FYI,...


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (Northern RD)*

Interesting read for sure. He's talking exclusively of the diesel made for the volvo though, right?
I would be interested to know the true differences in the build between the volvo equipped and the vw equipped.


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## Northern RD (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: (16VJohn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16VJohn* »_Interesting read for sure. He's talking exclusively of the diesel made for the volvo though, right?
I would be interested to know the true differences in the build between the volvo equipped and the vw equipped.

uh, no:it specifically mentions Volvo AND VW oil burners,..


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## Dieselkraftstoff (Jul 25, 2006)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! uh oh, cherio! (TurboDieselTech)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TurboDieselTech* »_Don't bypass the pressure release valve (aka overpressure valve)... unless, of course, you enjoy replacing heads and head gaskets.

This is pure BS. These blow off valves are completely useless.
Back out the screw on the one you have, drop a short 8mm allen screw down the hole, put original screw back in and snug it down.
FYI My 1.5td project: http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/...11786


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! (16VJohn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Northern RD* »_
uh, no:it specifically mentions Volvo AND VW oil burners,..

The D24 volvo he's talking about IS a vw diesel. VW produced the engine. The technologies are almost identical. Note the VW/Audi stamp in the casting... this is the 6 cyl equipped D24:


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## Northern RD (Mar 16, 2004)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! (16VJohn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16VJohn* »_
The D24 volvo he's talking about IS a vw diesel. VW produced the engine. The technologies are almost identical. Note the VW/Audi stamp in the casting... this is the 6 cyl equipped D24:









I guess that missed the sentance in the rebuild section that mentions VW and audi 1.6 and 2.0l`s, NOT VW and Audi AND Volvo,...


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! (Northern RD)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Northern RD* »_
I guess that missed the sentence in the rebuild section that mentions VW and audi 1.6 and 2.0l`s, NOT VW and Audi AND Volvo,...


I guess you missed the part at the top of the article that said "My present D24TIC" and the fact that it was a Volvo forum and the thread subject was " 740 Turbo Diesel (this one is loooong) 700 1986". He's talking about the Volvo diesel in that article... But to your credit, he does mention the 4 cylinder VW/Audi engines. However, the article focuses on his D24, it's flaws and rebuild-ability. The bore and stroke are the same between the 1.6 and the D24 (hence the 2.4L)... So I guess it would make sense that either engine shares the same flaws. The D24, IIRC is literally the 1.6 with 2 more cyls tacked on.
Anyways, somebody correct me if I am wrong.



_Modified by 16VJohn at 12:04 PM 4-9-2008_


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## 92tdjetta (Apr 18, 2008)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! (16VJohn)*

ive got a 92 1.6td jetta and smokes black when under mid to hard accel should i turn down the fuel screw a little?


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## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! (92tdjetta)*

It seems like all these smoke a little bit no matter what. I mean... if you are spewing huge black clouds, then yeah... that's doing nothing but wasting fuel, giving people cancer and throwing your EGT's off the scale.


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## QuantumSyncro (Apr 28, 2000)

*Re: The 1.6 NA is now a TD!!! (16VJohn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16VJohn* »_
I guess you missed the part at the top of the article that said "My present D24TIC" and the fact that it was a Volvo forum and the thread subject was " 740 Turbo Diesel (this one is loooong) 700 1986". He's talking about the Volvo diesel in that article... But to your credit, he does mention the 4 cylinder VW/Audi engines. However, the article focuses on his D24, it's flaws and rebuild-ability. The bore and stroke are the same between the 1.6 and the D24 (hence the 2.4L)... So I guess it would make sense that either engine shares the same flaws. The D24, IIRC is literally the 1.6 with 2 more cyls tacked on.
Anyways, somebody correct me if I am wrong.

Correct, the 1.6, 2.0 and 2.4 are from the same family and share design architecture although there are subtle differences in some component, for instance, the piston slots for oil squirters on the 2.0 TD are in a different place than those on the 1.6 TD pistons hence they aren't a direct cross for TD although they could be interchanged on the 1.6 NA etc. Otherwise you're right, the 2.0 is just one more cylinder and the 2.4 is two more cylinders beyond the 1.6.
And Volkswagen made them all, in fact the 2.4 in the Volvo has a big DIESEL or VW on the valve cover IIRC.
steve a


_Modified by QuantumSyncro at 11:10 PM 6-2-2009_


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## Dongskie (Mar 27, 2016)

this is just the topic I am looking for lessons, looks like it will also be possible to be done on a toyota n/a diesel engine?

just add turbo and go?


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