# best way to delete abs from a mk4



## vr6slc. (Jul 6, 2006)

im in the proccess of shaving my engine bay i want to delete my abs so i don't have the big pump in my bay what is the best way to delete it?? i thought about putting a master cylinder from a non abs mk3 on the booster but im not sure if it will totally work??
ty in advance


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

*Re: best way to delete abs from a mk4 (vr6slc.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vr6slc.* »_im in the proccess of shaving my engine bay i want to delete my abs so i don't have the big pump in my bay what is the best way to delete it?? i thought about putting a master cylinder from a non abs mk3 on the booster but im not sure if it will totally work??
ty in advance


You could just install prop. valves for the RR brakes and tune them accordingly, keep the same MC. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## vr6slc. (Jul 6, 2006)

*Re: best way to delete abs from a mk4 (GTijoejoe)*

how would i install that?? what about the front


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

*Re: best way to delete abs from a mk4 (vr6slc.)*

I assumed too much, thought you were gunna take it from there








So with your modulator, it has four pipes going out, and two pipes coming in from your MC. What the modulator is going to do for you is a couple of different things you should know. 

- your MC is tandum, it has two pistons connecting 1 bore supplying fuild to either your FR R/L , and the other to the RR R/L calipers... OR x-pattern connecting FR R & RR L, and the other FR L & RR R.
If your MC's piston bore diameters are the same you can do either setup, if they are different, you must understand which bores are going to which set of brakes (for fluid displacement, line pressure, and pedal stroke). 
- your modulator will act as a distribution block to make the 2 fluid passage patterns above, and limit the RR brake line pressures. 
- your modulator has two other main functions, release pressure from any 4 corner (ABS), or supply pressure to any 4 corner (VSA, etc).
Because you are removing the modulator completely you'll need to make your own pipe distribution. Simplest is to go FR circuit 1 RR circuit 2 because you can run one pipe from the front to back and split the pipe R/L at the RR axle. 
If you weren't kien on making all of your own pipes you can use your stock ones, of course there is some risk of cutting used older pipe and making flares because of internal corrsion, or you can order new pipes from the dealer. 
You'll need to purchase a pipe flaring kit, and a bender, along with some fittings, distributions, etc. You can find these at jegs and many other auto places. 
When making the RR pipes you must install a prop. valve to limit the RR brakes. The FR brakes you limit with your foot, meaning you don't have ABS any more, if these are locking you are on a hard decel or low friction surface.
You can put the prop. valve(s) where ever you want FR or RR, a vehicle that normally does not have ABS usually will have them in the MC (cost cheaper), but older vehicles also had them in the RR because of convenience in pipe lengths for the RR. Removing the entire pipes that run front to back can be a pain, many parts need to be remove most of the time, and many clips or retainers can be broken. 
By installing a RR prop. valve you'll need to tune it. The spectrum, Full race, Halling/heavy loading, or some where in between. 
Full race setup will limit the RR pressure usually the most. Meaing you tune for one vehicle weight and one decel level, as light as possible, and as high as possible... very simple. You just limit the pressure needed until the RR brakes dont lock under full decel.
Halling/heavy load setup would supply the most pressure possible so you don't toast your FR brakes.
In between is judging your vehicle's uses. As the weight of the vehicle changes (cargo, ppl, etc) and as the decel levels change (0.2, 0.4, 0.8, 1.0g), the weight transfer changes, so controling the brake bias is important you toast your FR or RR brakes.
At low decels your bias is usually 50/50 (of course assuming perfect/close enough 50/50 wt. distribution), its not until you are 0.8-1.0+ when you are reaching closer to 70+/30-. So having a race setup for a vehicle that carries a lot of ppl and crap at low decel levels will toast your FR brakes, and a setup that is utilized for heavy loading and raced with will lock your RR brakes and toast those too. 
Hope thats enough info http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Brakes are always a matter of compromise, you are always balancing opposite ends.



_Modified by GTijoejoe at 11:53 PM 5-22-2009_


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## vr6slc. (Jul 6, 2006)

*Re: best way to delete abs from a mk4 (GTijoejoe)*

dam dude i never thought i would say this to some one but you know too much about brakes lol it's a good thing that helped prob read it a few more times before i totally understand but thats for all the info you know where to get a valve from ??
ty


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

*Re: best way to delete abs from a mk4 (vr6slc.)*









Almost any where that sells automotive brake, and brake pipe/fitting supplies (jegs surely has those as well I bet).


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