# P0340 help-Tried everything.2004 passat



## miltak (Nov 1, 2008)

I have 04 passat 1.8 here and it's geting p0340-Camshaft sensor.We ckecked the wiring and replaced the camshaft sensor along with crankshaft sensor.Next thing is timing-so we put new timing belt with new tensioner etc..Still the same problem.It idles little rough,but above 1000rpm runs great.I am still leaning toward timing issue,but I checked the marks like 5 times.Always the one on cam is dead on when the one on the crankshaft puley and cover lines.
Even took the valve cover off and checked the chain-it looks ok and has the 16 teet between like it should.
Anyone who know,please help.
Thanks
\Dan


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## miltak (Nov 1, 2008)

Anyone?


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## AmIdYfReAk (Nov 8, 2006)

According to my friend ross, there is only three possible issues. 


Wiring from/to Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) faulty
Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) faulty
Timing misaligned 

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16724/P0340

Buyers choice what one it is.


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## jbutlertelecom (Aug 12, 2009)

Did you make sure the clip on the connector was all the way together? IE "clipped in"?
Make sure the connector is fully engaged and give it a tug after. If you don't push the clip in while seating the connector it won't actually clip together all the way. 
Other than that, click the link above, follow procedures outlined in the bentley for testing the circuit and timing the motor properly.
Also, check the Fuel Pump Relay, it ties into that circuit and is known to short on the cam/fuel injector circuit when it goes...


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## miltak (Nov 1, 2008)

Thanks for triong to help.
As I mentioned we tried it all.It is pluged in-the clip is locked as it should.

About the fuel injector relay-if it would be bad-I don't think it would be running at all-right?
I am still leaning towards timing issue.
In some other thread someone mention timing mark on flywheel,but according to VW tech in Carousel motors in Iowa City-there is no mark on flywheel.So I am stuck checking it on the crank puley and the cover,which is dead on.
Last thing I didn't try to find TDC by old fashion way-sticking screwdriver to first cylinder and folow it to the top,but I am not sure I can get it exactly by this procedure.Since it's on the top for more then one tooth.
Also I thought-maybe the cam chain tensioner is bad,but it was tight when I checked the chain.

Any other ideas?


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## miltak (Nov 1, 2008)

Here are pictures of my marks.


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## Randomdub (Jun 16, 2008)

i would check the marks on the cam gear with the marks on the flywheel not the crank pulley. I had the same issue and I found that my flywheel was out of line by a tooth and a half. Remove the plug on the top of the trans and check those marks...make sure you are at TDC. :thumbup:


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## Randomdub (Jun 16, 2008)

miltak said:


> In some other thread someone mention timing mark on flywheel,but according to VW tech in Carousel motors in Iowa City-there is no mark on flywheel.So I am stuck checking it on the crank puley and the cover,which is dead on.
> 
> Any other ideas?


if its a 1.8t there is for sure a mark on the flywheel. its in the bentley


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## miltak (Nov 1, 2008)

it's 04 passat.On jettas-there is a plug on the top,but you cannot get to the top of passat or audi since the motor has longitudinal placement unlike jettas.
anyoone know wher is the mark?
Thanks


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## miltak (Nov 1, 2008)

I don't think there is mark on flywheel,but the crank puley align with the mark on cover.
There is long thread on the chain issue,so who knows.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5484872-Calling-all-timing-gurus&highlight=timing+gurus
I counted the rollers and there is 16 of them like it should,but if you look thru that thread-there are some confusions,so now I am confused even more.
Dan


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## jbutlertelecom (Aug 12, 2009)

miltak said:


> I don't think there is mark on flywheel,but the crank puley align with the mark on cover.
> There is long thread on the chain issue,so who knows.
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5484872-Calling-all-timing-gurus&highlight=timing+gurus
> I counted the rollers and there is 16 of them like it should,but if you look thru that thread-there are some confusions,so now I am confused even more.
> Dan


When you line up the crank with the cover, the cam should line up with the marks on the cam sprocket with the mark on the valve cover. Then look at the exhaust cam where the chain is, there is a mark between the cam chain sprocket and the first cam cap on the actual camshaft. The marks should be very close to aligned with the little triangle on the first cam cap. Then on the intake side the marks will be off but as long as you have 16 rollers between the marks you are good to go.

Once you can verify all of this then you know your motor is in time and you should look elsewhere. 

My suspicion is the cam sensor trigger wheel is installed improperly or is missing the tab that locks it to the cam and is spinning freely.
Open the cam sensor and check if you can spin the trigger wheel with your hand, or that it is installed properly. 
Did you change heads and didn't mention it?
Something isn't right because the code you dare getting is generic.
Either it's wiring, faulty sensor or bad (bent/damaged) trigger wheel.

Good luck

Oh and if it's an automatic then there is no flywheel marks for TDC
If it's manual, then use the hole on top near the firewall, it's there but you have to move the coolant tank.
Look for a very faint line, you might have to take steel wool to it but it's there...
Do a search, it's been documented by a previous taxer


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## miltak (Nov 1, 2008)

When I replaced the camshaft sensor I checked the sensor trigger wheel and it is installed correctly and it's tight.
It is an automatic so no mark on flywheel.
I checked the chain,but I will check it again to be 200% sure.
Dan


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## jbutlertelecom (Aug 12, 2009)

miltak said:


> When I replaced the camshaft sensor I checked the sensor trigger wheel and it is installed correctly and it's tight.
> It is an automatic so no mark on flywheel.
> I checked the chain,but I will check it again to be 200% sure.
> Dan


Have you cleared the codes and then it comes back? This code is a hard set code and requires clearing with vag-com or any other scanner that can erase codes...
Just to make sure as I never asked before...

Also, to verify the motor is indeed at TDC (even though the crank pulley lines up you could have sheared the keyway) pull the #1 spark plug and insert a long skinny screwdriver ( an 18" 3/8" drive extension will fit perfectly) and move the crank backwards and forwards and when the extension/screwdriver tops out THAT is TDC (no matter what the pulley marks say @ the crank).


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## miltak (Nov 1, 2008)

Ofcourse i cleared it with VAG-COM.I mentioned above,that i will try it with the screwdriver in the 1st cylinder.
Thanks for trying to help.


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## miltak (Nov 1, 2008)

Well ,today I checked the TDC by sticking screwdriver inside the cylinder and I am 100% sure,that the timing is right on.I also took the valve cover off and counted the chainlinks and they look fine too-I posted the pictures.So perhaps defective PCM.


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## jbutlertelecom (Aug 12, 2009)

Your timing is good, so move on to electrical, up to and including the possibility of a fried ecu but I think it's just a broken wire or loose pin or something in the circuit... have you traced the wires back to the connector (at the ecu connection in the black box in the cowl) and checked resistance on the whole wire(s) end to end? 
Check your grounds, clean them up with scotch brite or sandpaper if they are rusty/corroded.

What were the symptoms before you started corrective actions? One day the light went off or after work was performed? Try to eliminate the variables...


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## miltak (Nov 1, 2008)

I picked the the car at auction like that.
I checked voltage and groud at the camshaft and it's OK and I wigled all wires and it was still fine.Does anyone know which pin on PCM is the wire from camshaft sensor,so I can check resistance?
Thanks


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## jbutlertelecom (Aug 12, 2009)

miltak said:


> I picked the the car at auction like that.
> I checked voltage and groud at the camshaft and it's OK and I wigled all wires and it was still fine.Does anyone know which pin on PCM is the wire from camshaft sensor,so I can check resistance?
> Thanks


I'm not sure what pin but the wires run under the intake manifold towards the back and up the firewall . I'd do a quick inspection under there and look for any splices or large taped sections that are obviously not OEM. I have a feeling someone spliced a wire and it's now shorting... Just a guess though

Something to do until you get the pinout from someone


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## miltak (Nov 1, 2008)

There is nothing slpiced-it's all factory.I need to know which pin is it on PCM connector.


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## miltak (Nov 1, 2008)

The exact code is

17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28) 
P1340 - 001 - Incor. Correlation

Readiness: 0110 1101

It was running for like 5 minutes with no codes and then it came back on.
On ross tech website iz this info:
When found in the 1.8T engine, check engine oil pressure. The oil pump pickup may be restricted. 
When found in the 1.8T engine (possibly others too), check to make sure the correct G40 is installed (single gap versus 4 gap). 

The sensor is new from VW ordered by vin and it is correct.
We had oil pan off the the screen is clean.
Where do I check oil pressure???
It is possible it has some oil restriction somwhere-these motors had the sludge problem.
Also if rpm's are over 1000 it runs smooth-higher pressure oil maybe.
Any sugsestions?


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## jbutlertelecom (Aug 12, 2009)

miltak said:


> The exact code is
> 
> 17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
> P1340 - 001 - Incor. Correlation
> ...



Well that's not what you originally said. I thought it was a p0340 code not p1340
That would point to timing issues. I was looking at your pictures again and I noticed this...
The picture of the crank @ TDC is off. There is an indent in the lower timing belt cover, hard to see but you should be able to feel it, in your picture it's just to the right of the line on the pulley. Get that lined up and then check at the cam.
Once the crank is set to TDC, look at the cam pulley. If it isn't lined up with the notch in the valve cover then the belt is off 1-2 teeth. Also, at this point the cam marks at the chain side can be verified (whether they line up or not). 
All the pictures you posted were of separate instances and thus timing can't be verified due to moving the crank between sets of pictures. Clearly though, the code you are getting is pointing to timing being off.
This could also be a dead or dying CCT (Cam Chain Tensioner) if it is clogged or just not operating due to wear and sludge.


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## miltak (Nov 1, 2008)

I was also geting P0340,but this morning it didn't come on.
Trust me I checked that timing multiple times.The crank puley mark is right on the cover notch and the cam is on the mark too.I checked it even with screwdriver in cylinder # 1 to double check the TDC and it is right on-I am 110% sure.I am leaning to the tensioner.

It sounds like it's a bitch to change,but there is nothing else,that can be wrong.

I may just run engine cleaner thru to see if it will improve-I thing it may be partially clogged.
I had 03 A4 couple years ago and it sounded like diesel-I run the engine flush thru it and it cleaned it right up.After installing new oil the A4 sounded great and no problems after.
So it's worth a shot to do it on this one.


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## miltak (Nov 1, 2008)

Well,I tried the engine flush and still the same.7Funny thing is if I read the code with Vag-Com-I get the
17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28) 
P1340 - 001 - Incor. Correlation

But if I read it with generic scanner-I get code P0340
WTF.

Anyway-I think I am at point of giving up.
I will try to take it to VW and see if they are smarter.


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## GLIIII (Apr 28, 2011)

Had that same code and misfire problems on my 1.8t GLI and after tons of money dumped into the car, it ended up being the coil pack wiring harness which apparently is a recall.


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## miltak (Nov 1, 2008)

I appreciate the info,but i don't get any misfire.Altough it is possible it could be the problem.
Also I cannot explain the difference between the code readers.
P0340 or P1340 is a difference,so how come my regular scanner read the 340 and vag-com 1340???
Dan


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## miltak (Nov 1, 2008)

Well got phone call from VW-according to them it's chain tensioner.$580 plus another $600 labor.I am so sick of this car,that I will let them do it.I will only lower the cost by geting the tensioner from different company for like $160.


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## miltak (Nov 1, 2008)

Update-after car was fixed by replacing chain tensioner I drove it home from VW and p0012 came on.After coming back to VW ,the VW tech found out the problem for the p0012 is cylinder head has oil pressure restriction,so the oil pressure going to tensioner is lower then suppose to be,They had the same problem in past and remedy is to replace cylinder head.We cleared it and drove it for 150 miles on hwy and no problem.It can happen when the rpms are low for a while,so the pressure drops in the chain tensioner and you will get the P0012.The car runs fine,but there is very good chance the p0012 will be back-I am not changin head and perhaps using very good synthetic oil may help to clean-I actualy run engine cleaner thru before the tensioner was replaced.
Dan


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## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

miltak said:


> Update-after car was fixed by replacing chain tensioner I drove it home from VW and p0012 came on.After coming back to VW ,the VW tech found out the problem for the p0012 is cylinder head has oil pressure restriction


Thanks for following up! But I don't understand this. A flow restriction will reduce flow, and in turn, reduce pressure downstream. But there is no real flow through the tensioner, is there?



> ,so the oil pressure going to tensioner is lower then suppose to be


This part sounds right. Pressure is too low, so the tensioner can't do the job, but it's probably low in the whole motor. In fact that's probably why it 'ran fine above 1000 RPM' even before you changed the tensioner. Were you ever able to check the oil pressure? Have you checked the oil pump pickup?



> It can happen when the rpms are low for a while,so the pressure drops in the chain tensioner and you will get the P0012.The car runs fine,but there is very good chance the p0012 will be back-I am not changin head and perhaps using very good synthetic oil may help to clean-I actualy run engine cleaner thru before the tensioner was replaced.
> Dan


What oil do you run? Would be interesting to add an oil pressure gauge to get an idea of the pressures you have now (hot, cold, idle, cruise, etc), then temporarily go up one oil viscosity range, say 10w-40 (as long as you check the pickup first).

Edit: I read more of the thread and I see you already checked the screen.


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## miltak (Nov 1, 2008)

We had the oil pan off before and the screen was clean-we even replaced the oil filter housing.According to VW tech the oil restriction is in the head,so where it goes to the tensioner,the pressure is reduced there,
He said they had 3 of those like it and in all 3 they replaced the head to fix the problem.
I didn't check the pressure and I don't remember the numbers he mentioned.He told me the PSI specs and actual and the problem is in the head.
Like I said I am done with the car-I am a dealer and it's on the lot for sale-it runs fine,but I will advise the buyer-he may get CEL on down the road.Like I said I drove it for many miles since and nothing,but the miles were on HWY,so higher RPM.I drove it to carwash and around and so far so good,so perhaps the HWY drive helped clean it.
I have Castrol Edge 5w30 oil in it now and all good quality oils help to clean,but who knows.
I saw many people had problem with the p0012 and there is whole thred about the timing chain and they didn't solve it.Well I did-the problem is in the head.The tech was one of the best I met and he clearly explained how you set the chain.The 16 teeth must be checked after you turn the motor over few times,otherwise you get false reading-so I am 110% sure timing is good+he said they fixed the other cars and it was always the head.
As you know they had sludge problem and who knows what oil they run before I got it.I have seen some "baked" oil on the valve cover-it wasn't much,but if you run good synthetic oil and change it as you should-you will not have any of that.

Just wanted to help other folks here,who run in this problem.It was time consuming for me.
I love VW-I sell many of MK5's,but this older stuff with 1.8 on either VW or Audi with higher miles is always problem.


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## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

miltak said:


> Like I said I am done with the car-I am a dealer and it's on the lot for sale-it runs fine,but I will advise the buyer-he may get CEL on down the road.


Ah, OK, I missed that. GLWS ...


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