# 2006 Jetta Oil Leaks from Bell Housing ----> Is this caused by VACUUM PUMP?



## milkyway (May 10, 2015)

Before doing the job I want to see if someone can confirm that it is probably the vacuum pump? Here are pics of my 2006 2.5L Jetta with 104K and auto trans...If you wipe the bell housing bone dry within about 5 minutes you can see oil starting to come through the cracks...Does this fit the symptoms of a leaking vacuum pump?


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## Aronspiker (May 9, 2015)

Look at the top of the engine where the transmission mates with the engine. There should be a somewhat flat surface. If it's holding oil, then it's the vacuum pump. It leaks right above this surface and a lot of the oil is kept there. And the rest is sloshed around and all over the tranny.


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## Vaglife (11 mo ago)

ik This thread is dead but did you replace it and did it fix it op?


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## halbwissen (Jul 20, 2001)

Vaglife said:


> ik This thread is dead but did you replace it and did it fix it op?


OP was last seen online July 2015, so I doubt they’ll respond.

If you’re experiencing something similar look on the driver side of the engine, just above where the transmission connects to the block, and there you’ll find the vacuum pump with a black cover on it. If you see oil residue on the pump, and pooling below it on top of the transmission, then you’ve got a leaky pump and can either replace it with a new one, by a seal kit from RKX, or swap the pump out for a block-off plate from USP Motorsport or Integrated Engineering.


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## Boomer Guy (Mar 26, 2021)

halbwissen said:


> OP was last seen online July 2015, so I doubt they’ll respond.
> 
> If you’re experiencing something similar look on the driver side of the engine, just above where the transmission connects to the block, and there you’ll find the vacuum pump with a black cover on it. If you see oil residue on the pump, and pooling below it on top of the transmission, then you’ve got a leaky pump and can either replace it with a new one, by a seal kit from RKX, or swap the pump out for a block-off plate from USP Motorsport or Integrated Engineering.


I replaced the front seal facing the driver side, only to find the seal on the opposite side leaking, as well as the O-ring gasket on the vacuum line from the brake booster. I removed the vacuum pump and replaced it with the IE block-off plate and sourced the vacuum from the line to the throttle body with a tee-fitting. Several thousand miles later, the brakes perform the same as originally, the pedal still feels the same and NO MORE LEAKS! I spent less than $60 on everything. 

I used this link as a guide:








DIY: 2.5L MKV Vacuum Pump Delete


Items purchased: IE plate: $73.00 (shipped) 5/16" ID fuel line (2 foot): $3.00 (local) Universal Tee: $5.00 (local) Clamps: $4.00 (local) I removed this the other night while doing a transmission swap: You can remove the pump without removing the transmission. Google search it to find the...




www.volkswagenownersclub.com





Hope this helps.


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## halbwissen (Jul 20, 2001)

Same Boomer! Best way to do it in my opinion.


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## Boomer Guy (Mar 26, 2021)

I watched the YouTube videos on how to replace all the seals because it shows how to remove/replace the vacuum pump. This is particularly important if you have the automatic transmission which is a little more complicated than the manual transmission. If anyone is interested, I can post all the steps or send them in a private message.

At least you can delete this on our engines. The Mini Cooper uses a mechanical vacuum pump as well and it is a time bomb for the engine. I haven't seen any evidence that it can be deleted. The VW/Audi design is superior to the new Mini/BMW Cooper. That's my opinion, anyway.


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## ryanl2299 (10 mo ago)

Boomer Guy said:


> I replaced the front seal facing the driver side, only to find the seal on the opposite side leaking, as well as the O-ring gasket on the vacuum line from the brake booster. I removed the vacuum pump and replaced it with the IE block-off plate and sourced the vacuum from the line to the throttle body with a tee-fitting. Several thousand miles later, the brakes perform the same as originally, the pedal still feels the same and NO MORE LEAKS! I spent less than $60 on everything.
> 
> I used this link as a guide:
> 
> ...


Oil is leaking pretty good on the 2.5 jetta I just picked up the other day. Seems to be coming from the PCV valve area and the valve cover too but also need to check this location as well (seems to be common so I'm sure it's leaking too). Where did you get that IE plate so cheap, ebay?


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## halbwissen (Jul 20, 2001)

Straight from the source- IE Vacuum Pump Block-off Plate for MK5/6 2.5 5 Cylinder Engines


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## ryanl2299 (10 mo ago)

halbwissen said:


> Straight from the source- IE Vacuum Pump Block-off Plate for MK5/6 2.5 5 Cylinder Engines


Seeing $65 on that site. You said you paid $60 for everything, I'm assuming you got that for maybe $45 tops.


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## Boomer Guy (Mar 26, 2021)

Right now, with the inflation running rampant, if you are thinking about buying something, do it now!


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## halbwissen (Jul 20, 2001)

ryanl2299 said:


> Seeing $65 on that site. You said you paid $60 for everything, I'm assuming you got that for maybe $45 tops.


Boomer might’ve paid $60 all-in, but I bought mine so long ago now that I have no idea what I paid. That said, I think $65 is still a fair price.


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## Boomer Guy (Mar 26, 2021)

You can also get a fancier Spulen Kit for about $150 (probably more by now) which has more parts. However, it has some disadvantages. The Spulen Vacuum Pump Delete Kit comes with a customized PCV hose that allows you to plug the brake booster line directly into. The PCV hose is a good place to get vacuum from; however, it's also a good place to get oil vapor drop-out.


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## ryanl2299 (10 mo ago)

Boomer Guy said:


> You can also get a fancier Spulen Kit for about $150 (probably more by now) which has more parts. However, it has some disadvantages. The Spulen Vacuum Pump Delete Kit comes with a customized PCV hose that allows you to plug the brake booster line directly into. The PCV hose is a good place to get vacuum from; however, it's also a good place to get oil vapor drop-out.


Yeah, don't think tying into that is a good idea.


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## BoomerGuy (10 mo ago)

I got the IE Blocking Plate from ECS Tuning. The price has gone up.








Vacuum Pump Blockoff Plate


Free up horsepower by removing the factory vacuum pump




www.ecstuning.com





The OEM PCV valve seems to have the best history instead of going with the aftermarket ones. When I removed my valve cover with a leaking gasket to replace the spark plugs, I discovered the center part of the gasket had leaked into the spark plug tube, covering the coils and top of the plugs. Fortunately, the oil had not caused any problems. I bought the OEM replacement valve cover gasket off Amazon which includes the gaskets, bolts and PCV valve at less than $100 for everything. I also upgraded my coils and spark plugs to NGK and the car runs perfectly with no leaks. 

Be sure to torque all of the plugs and bolts on the valve cover, and pay attention to the pattern for tightening the valve cover so that you don't warp it. It isn't hard to do. Just take your time and do it right the first time.


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## BoomerGuy (10 mo ago)

BoomerGuy said:


> I got the IE Blocking Plate from ECS Tuning. The price has gone up.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I meant to say, I replaced the valve cover KIT.


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## Sosababby (Aug 28, 2020)

Boomer Guy said:


> I watched the YouTube videos on how to replace all the seals because it shows how to remove/replace the vacuum pump. This is particularly important if you have the automatic transmission which is a little more complicated than the manual transmission. If anyone is interested, I can post all the steps or send them in a private message.
> 
> At least you can delete this on our engines. The Mini Cooper uses a mechanical vacuum pump as well and it is a time bomb for the engine. I haven't seen any evidence that it can be deleted. The VW/Audi design is superior to the new Mini/BMW Cooper. That's my opinion, anyway.


 LOOK AT THAT OIL LEAK !








! I also have a 06 Jetta 2.5L Auto Tranny , and it’s leaking oil i believe from the same place . Could you also help diagnose as well what could be the possibly source of the oil leak ? I bought this used sitting 1+ year at a lot just changed spark plugs oil air intake filters . But I see constant oil leak underneath from same location as OP .


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## Sosababby (Aug 28, 2020)

BoomerGuy said:


> I got the IE Blocking Plate from ECS Tuning. The price has gone up.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


And Here’s from when I did the Spark Park replacement , would there be oil leaking from the valve cover ? Is that common on these MK5 2.5L engines ?


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## BoomerGuy (10 mo ago)

The valve cover will eventually leak externally down the sides of the engine and internally onto the coils which is messy but won't hurt anything. The PCV valve is built into the valve cover. If you have an external leak, the inside part of the gasket is probably leaking as well. If the valve cover has over 100K miles on it, I recommend changing it which comes in a kit which includes the PCV valve, gasket and bolts. If the valve cover is not that old, just change the gasket after cleaning up the mess inside the holes.


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## Sosababby (Aug 28, 2020)

BoomerGuy said:


> The valve cover will eventually leak externally down the sides of the engine and internally onto the coils which is messy but won't hurt anything. The PCV valve is built into the valve cover. If you have an external leak, the inside part of the gasket is probably leaking as well. If the valve cover has over 100K miles on it, I recommend changing it which comes in a kit which includes the PCV valve, gasket and bolts. If the valve cover is not that old, just change the gasket after cleaning up the mess inside the holes.


Its hard too say 100% but I do believe it is more of the Vacuum Pump leak rather than the valve cover but I just ordered off IE that Slate cover with Nextday shipping came out too $98 😅 I guess it’s not an expensive fix compared to the dealers $1300+ cost too REPLACE and eventually leak again Vacuum Pump . I will be going out there to replace that coil in the meantime and when I check under the hood I can remove the intake hose to throttle body and will that expose the Vacuum Pump ? Also what tools will i need in the process of the deleting the Pump and how to reroute the brakes ? Thank you in advance @BoomerGuy i will create a whole new post with photos once i discover the problem so I can ask questions


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## BoomerGuy (10 mo ago)

Sosababby said:


> Its hard too say 100% but I do believe it is more of the Vacuum Pump leak rather than the valve cover but I just ordered off IE that Slate cover with Nextday shipping came out too $98 😅 I guess it’s not an expensive fix compared to the dealers $1300+ cost too REPLACE and eventually leak again Vacuum Pump . I will be going out there to replace that coil in the meantime and when I check under the hood I can remove the intake hose to throttle body and will that expose the Vacuum Pump ? Also what tools will i need in the process of the deleting the Pump and how to reroute the brakes ? Thank you in advance @BoomerGuy i will create a whole new post with photos once i discover the problem so I can ask questions


Here are some links to videos that helped me in removing the vacuum pump. They show how to replace the seals but to replace the rear seal, you have to remove the pump. The good news is you don't have to put it back after replacing it. 










Then this link to the forum which shows the engine removed for a better view when installing the IE Blocking Plate and where to install the tee in the vacuum line from the N80 valve to the throttle body. I do recommend replacing this vacuum hose because after it ages, the inside diameter shrinks while the wall swells. I got mine from URO Parts: *URO Parts Evaporative Emissions Purge Valve Hose – 07K 133 518 A*









DIY: 2.5L MKV Vacuum Pump Delete


Items purchased: IE plate: $73.00 (shipped) 5/16" ID fuel line (2 foot): $3.00 (local) Universal Tee: $5.00 (local) Clamps: $4.00 (local) I removed this the other night while doing a transmission swap: You can remove the pump without removing the transmission. Google search it to find the...




www.volkswagenownersclub.com





Hope this helps.


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## BoomerGuy (10 mo ago)

BoomerGuy said:


> Here are some links to videos that helped me in removing the vacuum pump. They show how to replace the seals but to replace the rear seal, you have to remove the pump. The good news is you don't have to put it back after replacing it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I added my complete instructions to your other post on this forum.


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