# MkIV OEM control arm bushings?



## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*MkIV OEM control arm bushings/LCA install guide*

UPDATE - install guide below
Note for MkII/MkIII/Corrado/B3/B4/Passat owners:
Yes you can use the R32/Audi TT bushings on your OEM control arms!!! For Passat, you may need to replace the control arm bushing sleeves (part #191407190A)

Background: Why bushings?
# The front suspension lower control arm (LCA) bushings, especially the donut-shaped unit towards the rear of the LCA, wear out over time. This causes the whole front suspension to move around 1/8" to 1/4" under load, thus changing the toe angle and making braking and extreme handling maneuvers less precise.
# To restore your car to factory spec, replace these bushings with OEM units specified in the shop manual. To improve the handling response beyond OEM spec, you can upgrade to the stiffer Audi TT/R32 unit. Folks report that they don't add any harshness but do firm up steering and braking a little bit.
# Polyurethane bushings are not a good choice for an LCA application because of binding issues and lubrication requirements. They do feel stiff for a few months and then wear out much faster than OEM rubber resulting in sloppy handling. They are often brightly colored in red or yellow to attract folks and close the sale. You'll be wise to avoid them for this application.
# For the ultimate in stiff rides or for racing, you don't want a bushing at all. You want a spherical bearing. Generally, these bearings are not suitable for street use because of added noise/vibration and potential maintenance issues. Vendors such as http://www.h2sport.com and http://www.srsvw.com offer bearing kits for your LCA.

Why not just get the R32/Audi TT control arms outright instead of messing with bushings?
# Yes, the Audi TT LCA will fit MkIV cars but...
# You need to modify the LCA (drilling + thread tapping) to use your existing MkIV sway bar. Otherwise, you must get Audi TT-style front struts and the Audi-TT style swaybar+endlinks, or run no front swaybar at all.
# The TT LCA is a few pounds heavier. While this is good for durability and off-road/rally driving, this actually decreases performance potential.
# The TT LCA offers a little more camber adjustment than the standard MkIV LCA. This is good for performance tuning, but most alignment shops don't know about this adjustment and won't adjust it because it is not in their standard book. You have to go to a performance tuner to have them make the proper camber adjustments.
# For upgrades on your R32/TT LCA see http://public.fotki.com/mcphil...stall/

Front bushing description








# This bushing is supposedly OK to replace with poly because binding isn't really an issue, but you won't gain anything since the OEM bushing is already quite stiff. This bushing only needs to be replaced if it is obviously worn or damaged.
# Note that R32 and late-model Audi TT LCA's have an entirely different bushing in this position. See http://public.fotki.com/mcphil...stall/
# The original MY 1998-1999 Audi TT had smaller bushings similar to the GTI, but this setup was replaced in a factory recall that dialed in more understeer and added a rear wing to give more downforce at high speed.
# Part number: 357407182
# Price $5
# http://www.parts4vws.com/catal...07182
# http://worldimpex.com/item_detail.html?sku=5043
# http://worldimpex.com/item_detail.html?sku=269277
# http://www.parts.com/shoppingc...20GTI
Another option for Mk1 Audi TT & MkIV R32 folks
# http://www.modshack.info/defcon.htm
Rear bushing aka donut bushing description








# This bushing frequently develops obvious cracks and should be replaced. It is NOT ok to replace with poly due to binding issues.
# Part numbers: 8N0407181
# Price: $15-$25 each
# http://www.ecstuning.com/stage...=3754
# http://worldimpex.com/item_detail.html?sku=81148
# http://www.parts4vws.com/catal...07181
# http://www.ecstuning.com/stage...=3893 (heavy duty? This is actually the same as the Audi TT bushing but manufactured by Meyle instead of Boge. The rubber appears to be softer and smoother than the Boge brand bushing.)
# http://www.trademotion.com/par...13799
Control arm install write-up for MkIV

Tools:
# 13mm, 16mm, 17mm, 18mm sockets
# 18mm deep offset wrench (makes getting the nut for the rear-position bushing a LOT easier - $15 at sears)
# floor jack (2nd floor jack may be needed to jack up motor)
# bottle-jack
# jack stands
# torque wrench
# breaker bar
# ratchet and socket extensions
# Torx T25 screwdriver
# Some cars will require the motor mount removal tools: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2357867

Part 1 Uninstall:
# loosen wheel lugs
# Jack up front-end of car and secure with jack stands
# Remove front wheel
# Loosen swaybar link bolt with 16mm socket. There is some pre-load on the bar so be careful when it snaps out. You may use the bottle jack here to position the spindle/balljoint to a better angle.
# Loosen the three 13mm balljoint bolts - don't lose the triangle top nut plate. You may re-use the bolts. The Bentley shop manual says to replace them, the ETKA does not, so its up to you.
# Loosen 18mm rear-position LCA bolt. This one has a LOT of torque on it, so use a long breaker bar. Note that you have to secure the nut on top with a deep offset wrench or similar. Most regular wrenches or ratchets just won't fit! Again, you may re-use the nut and bolt.
# Loosen 18mm front-position LCA bolt. This also has a LOT of torque. Re-use the bolt. (Note there is some risk in performing this step. In some cars, the bolt is rusted into place and when loosened the nutsert welded to the subframe breaks off. If this happens you have to cut a hole into the subframe and weld the nutsert back into place, figure out how to hold he nutsert stationary while tightening the bolt, or replace the subframe outright. This is not an often occurrence but be aware of the risk. Using some penetrating oil overnight *should* reduce this risk.)
# Use the bottle jack to move the spindle up and down until you can slide the ball joint out of the control arm. It helps to have a second pair of hands here. Note that the balljoint can rotate quite a bit, so use that to your advantage.

Part 2: Swap bushings
At this point, you may take your old LCA's and extract the old bushings and replace with new bushings using one of the following methods:
# take control arms to a local machine shop
# http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2797381
# http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty...x.htm
# If you have a spare set of control arms to swap in, skip to part 3...

Part 3 Re-Install:
# Slide the new control arm into place
# Insert the rear position bolt and fasten it with the nut. Don't torque it down yet.
# Insert the balljoint inside the end of the LCA, and secure with the three bolts and top nut-plate. Don't torque yet.
# Insert the front-position 18mm bolt and torque it to 52 ft-lbs +90°.
# Torque the rear-position 18mm bolt to 52 ft-lbs+90°. Make sure to hold the nut in place with the deep offset wrench again. (This part is difficult on the passenger side because there isn't much clearance.)
# Torque the three 13mm bolts to 15 ft-lbs. To get maximum negative camber, the bolts should be further out towards the edge of the LCA. Pull the spindle+brake rotor to get it in the position you want. There is about 2mm of leeway on the MkIV control arm, and about 5mm leeway on the Audi TT/R32 control arm.
# Position the bottle jack to allow swaybar link to meet up.
# Torque swaybar link 16mm bolt to 33 ft-lbs.
# Remove bottle jack.
# Re-install wheel.
# Remove jack stands and floor jack.
# Torque wheel lug bolts to 89 ft-lbs.
# Get wheel alignment to check camber and toe.

Oilpan/tranny getting in the way?
# The passenger side control arm is a lot harder to get out on the VR6/TDI. You need to raise the motor out of the way to get at the front-position bolt. The VR6/TDI motor has a huge oilpan which completely blocks access to this bolt. You'll need to loosen the motor mount bolts quite a bit to gain access.
# Automatic transmissions block the drivers-side bolt in a similar fashion requiring the removal of the top transmission-mount. See my motor mount guide for tools info: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2300076
# You also may need to remove the bottom splash guard with a Torx T25 screwdriver bit.
# The exhaust/downpipe shield leaves little clearance for using a ratchet or wrench on the top nut in the rear-position bolt. It is extremely difficult to get this bolt torqued properly without a deep offset wrench. Save yourself hours of aggravation and just buy the right tool for $15 at Sears.
Install Photos
Pic of VR6 problems on passenger side: Note plastic trim piece and oilpan blocking the bolt. Note 2nd jack to raise motor.








Note 18mm deep offset wrench to hold nut for rear position bolt. Note bottle jack to stabilize torque wrench.








Vendors:
# http://www.ecstuning.com - good prices
# http://www.mjmautohaus.com - sells OEM MkIV LCA with HD bushings already pressed in
# http://www.vwgenuineparts.com - Chaplins VW dealer in Bellevue, WA
# http://www.1stvwparts.com - Auburn VW dealer in Auburn, WA
# http://www.worldimpex.com
# http://www.germanautoparts.com
# http://www.parts4vws.com


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## Shad (Feb 8, 2003)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (phatvw)*

The front bushing will last forever. I wouldn't change it. For the rear, go heavy duty way! It makes a noticeable difference.


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## vengeance18t (May 20, 2004)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (Shad)*

IIRC when I was looking to replace the bushings when I installed my coils, I called ECS about their "heavy duty" bushings and they said they were just the ones from the TT.


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## SRSVW (Jun 28, 2001)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (necromanx13x)*

Poly isnt right for any! I think the OEM are best overall.Just my opinion.

Dick Shine


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (phatvw)*

Update. I got my hands on both the Meyle and Boge (oem) brand Audi TT rear-position bushings. The Meyle bushings appear to be softer than Boge and have a smoother rubber.
I will be getting the Boge bushings pressed into my oem MkIV control arms later this week.


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## groftja (Jul 19, 2004)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (phatvw)*

That's good to know. Thanks! It's odd how the Meyle bushings cost more too. After hearing this news, I too will be getting the Boge bushings for sure.


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## BMP20AE 1253 (Jun 7, 2003)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (groftja)*

I recently installed te polyurethane bushings in the upper and lower slots..
I thought these were supposed to be better than stock?
What is bad about the urethane bushings and is it worth another $100 to take them out and put these ones in?
I have a GTI. What is the best for the front and back. I want to know once and for all so I dont keep wasting money.


_Modified by BMP20AE 1253 at 4:14 PM 12-15-2005_


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## 7thGear (Sep 20, 2002)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (BMP20AE 1253)*

the bushings are designed to FLEX because that is how our control arms work... the rubber flexes and the control arm pivots about the bushing....
poly is way to stiff, so it doesnt flex, so when you force it to flex, it will bind or wear out extreamly fast, forcing you to replace them even faster.
maybe on a super smooth race track with no major bumps and a suspension system where you dont move all that much they might work...
but for everday life... forget about it, people that sell you urothane bushings either have no clue of what makes our suspensions work, assume you drive a full blown racecar, or just want to make a quick buck off of you.

(ps, my money is on the sphearical units, cant wait till spring... woopee!!)


_Modified by 7thGear at 5:39 PM 12-15-2005_


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## BMP20AE 1253 (Jun 7, 2003)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (7thGear)*

So what are the best ones for out cars and where to get them? 
It seems the links at the top of this post are mostly for T or R32.


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## 7thGear (Sep 20, 2002)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (BMP20AE 1253)*

the TT/R32 are a direct fit, which is why people are advertising them, there stiffer, but they still FLEX so there is less side to side shifting around of the control arm, but still soft enough to provide for the vertical flex needed for the smooth and long lasting operation of your suspension.



_Modified by 7thGear at 5:42 PM 12-15-2005_


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## 16vracer (Jul 12, 1999)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (7thGear)*

doesn't Shine make metal spherical bearings?


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## 7thGear (Sep 20, 2002)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (16vracer)*

yes they do
as does H2Sport


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## 16vracer (Jul 12, 1999)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (7thGear)*


_Quote, originally posted by *7thGear* »_yes they do
as does H2Sport

Cool. I was hoping somebody would post them in this thread with links etc, so as to compile a list of all the control arm bushing options for us.
Is anyone using either the Shine or H2Sports? How do they like them?


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (groftja)*


_Quote, originally posted by *groftja* »_That's good to know. Thanks! It's odd how the Meyle bushings cost more too. After hearing this news, I too will be getting the Boge bushings for sure.

You know I don't know if they are actually softer or not, they just feel different because of the texture of the rubber. I can make a mark in both bushings with my fingernail.


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## rracerguy717 (Apr 8, 2003)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (phatvw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *phatvw* »_
You know I don't know if they are actually softer or not, they just feel different because of the texture of the rubber. I can make a mark in both bushings with my fingernail.
 
if you know of any Dirt track's around you ,most racers will have a durometer in there tool box im sure they will let you use too check them both so you can get the exact stiffness of the rubbers .







Bob.G


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## rracerguy717 (Apr 8, 2003)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (16vracer)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16vracer* »_
Cool. I was hoping somebody would post them in this thread with links etc, so as to compile a list of all the control arm bushing options for us. 

Fred they sell them complete unit installed in the lower control arm, also Tom has modded arms that move out the ball joint location similar to the TT arm , but they use the lighter stamped out arm like in the link below . Give him a call , great guy to do business with and pick his brain with suspensions







Bob.G
http://www.h2sport.com/products.php?productid=215


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## BMP20AE 1253 (Jun 7, 2003)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (rracerguy717)*

It looks lie H2 Sport only sells the whol control arm with the modded control Arm bushings.
Do they seell just the bushings?
Are those bushings better than the ones from ECS?


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## DaFabolous2.0 (May 1, 2003)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (Shad)*

go with the Audi TT rear C.A. bushing.. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 16vracer (Jul 12, 1999)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (rracerguy717)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rracerguy717* »_
Fred they sell them complete unit installed in the lower control arm, also Tom has modded arms that move out the ball joint location similar to the TT arm , but they use the lighter stamped out arm like in the link below . Give him a call , great guy to do business with and pick his brain with suspensions







Bob.G
http://www.h2sport.com/products.php?productid=215

I guess I'd need to call him to find out about the arms with ball joint moved out?








so is anyone using these? How are they? Too much for commuting with?


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## 7thGear (Sep 20, 2002)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (16vracer)*

if the rest of your suspension is set for comfort
ie
SHOCK TRAVEL








they shouldnt be that harsh


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## 16vracer (Jul 12, 1999)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (7thGear)*


_Quote, originally posted by *7thGear* »_if the rest of your suspension is set for comfort
ie
SHOCK TRAVEL










Shut it


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## 7thGear (Sep 20, 2002)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (BMP20AE 1253)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BMP20AE 1253* »_It looks lie H2 Sport only sells the whol control arm with the modded control Arm bushings.
Do they seell just the bushings?
Are those bushings better than the ones from ECS?

there not really bushigns... they are sphearical bearing units that dont flex.


_Quote, originally posted by *16vracer* »_
Shut it









NEVER










_Modified by 7thGear at 7:47 PM 12-18-2005_


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## BMP20AE 1253 (Jun 7, 2003)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (7thGear)*

So the issue with the poly-urethane bushings is that they wear out faster or that they make the car handle worse?
What I mean is that I just put them in about a month ago. Should I just go ahead and take them back out or wait a while until they go bad?
If I am looking to only change the bushings and not the whole control arm, should I just go with the stock Audi TT bushings or what?
Everyone here seems to be suggesting something different..


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## groftja (Jul 19, 2004)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (BMP20AE 1253)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BMP20AE 1253* »_So the issue with the poly-urethane bushings is that they wear out faster or that they make the car handle worse?

Did they make your car handle better, worse, or no change?


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## 7thGear (Sep 20, 2002)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (groftja)*

only laptimes will tell!


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## BMP20AE 1253 (Jun 7, 2003)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (7thGear)*

Someone answer my questions plz!!!!


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## groftja (Jul 19, 2004)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (BMP20AE 1253)*

You are the one with the poly bushings, so you should be telling us how they changed the car's handling, not us telling you.







Most of us haven't tried poly bushings because some people who have, have said they regretted it due to them wearing out prematurely and when that happens they handle worse than stock. But I'm always open to new information and you've got them so you tell us about them.


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## 7thGear (Sep 20, 2002)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (BMP20AE 1253)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BMP20AE 1253* »_Someone answer my questions plz!!!!










_Quote, originally posted by *7thGear* »_the bushings are designed to FLEX because that is how our control arms work... the rubber flexes and the control arm pivots about the bushing....
poly is way to stiff, so it doesnt flex, so when you force it to flex, it will bind or wear out extreamly fast, forcing you to replace them even faster.
maybe on a super smooth race track with no major bumps and a suspension system where you dont move all that much they might work...
but for everday life... forget about it, people that sell you urothane bushings either have no clue of what makes our suspensions work, assume you drive a full blown racecar, or just want to make a quick buck off of you.

(ps, my money is on the sphearical units, cant wait till spring... woopee!!)

_Modified by 7thGear at 5:39 PM 12-15-2005_


_Quote, originally posted by *groftja* »_You are the one with the poly bushings, so you should be telling us how they changed the car's handling, not us telling you.







Most of us haven't tried poly bushings because some people who have, have said they regretted it due to them wearing out prematurely and when that happens they handle worse than stock. But I'm always open to new information and you've got them so you tell us about them.


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## MDVDuber (Nov 20, 2002)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (7thGear)*

How involved is the maintenance on Spherical Bearings? I can't imagine that it's just stick 'em in and forget about it.


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## 7thGear (Sep 20, 2002)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (MDVDuber)*

probably need to lube them now and then

probably take them out for cleaning if too much dust/grime builds up, id like to hear from Dick or Tom on this issue.


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## Ricky Bobby (Sep 29, 2005)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (phatvw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *phatvw* »_*Control arm install write-up*
*Tools:*
13mm, 16mm, 18mm sockets
floor jack
bottle-jack
jack stands
torque wrench
ratchet and socket extensions
Having had the new TT bushings pressed into a spare set of control arms (thanks eggroller!) I proceeded to do the install:

*Uninstall*:
loosen wheel lugs
Jack up one side of car and secure with jack stands
Remove wheel
Loosen swaybar link bolt with 16mm socket. There is some pre-load on the bar so be careful when it snaps out. You may use the bottle jack here to position the spindle/balljoint to a better angle.
Loosen the three 13mm balljoint bolts - don't lose the triangle top nut plate. You may re-use the bolts. The Bentley shop manual says to replace them, the ETKA does not, so its up to you.
Loosen 18mm rear-position LCA bolt. This one has a LOT of torque on it, so use a long breaker bar. Note that you're have to secure the bit nut on top with a wrench or ratchet. I found a ratchet works best. Again, you may re-use the nut and bolt.
Loosen 18mm front-position LCA bolt. This also has a LOT of torque. Re-use the bolt
Use the bottle jack to move the spindle up and down until you can slide the ball joint out of the control arm. It helps to have a second pair of hands here. Note that the balljoint can rotate quite a bit, so use that to your advantage.
*Install:*
Slide the new control arm into place
Insert the rear position bolt and fasten it with the nut. Don't torque it down yet.
Insert the balljoint inside the end of the LCA, and secure with the three bolts and top nut-plate. Don't torque yet.
Insert the front-position 18mm bolt and torque it to 52 ft-lbs +90°.
Torque the rear-position 18mm bolt to 52 ft-lbs+90°. Make sure to hold the nut in place with a ratchet.
Torque the three 13mm bolts to 15 ft-lbs. To get maximum negative camber, the bolts should be further out towards the edge of the LCA. Pull the spindle+brake rotor to get it in the position you want. There is about 2mm of leeway on the MkIV control arm, and about 5mm leeway on the Audi TT/R32 control arm.
Position the bottle jack to allow swaybar link to meet up.
Torque swaybar link 16mm bolt to 33 ft-lbs.
Remove bottle jack.
Re-install wheel.
Remove jack stands and floor jack.
Torque wheel lug bolts to 89 ft-lbs.

*Driving impressions*
Absolutely no difference at all. Of course its raining here, so I couldn't really push it. I also need to get an alignment before I can really judge. My car is pulling to the right.
pics to follow.
_Modified by phatvw at 5:45 PM 12-22-2005_


great writeup, i'm really interested to see after you get an alignment if you notice any difference whatsoever, i was thinking about doing the poly front bushings/TT rear bushings if i get new ball joints on my control arms in the spring


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## eggroller (May 25, 2000)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (phatvw)*

I guess that means you don't need to install the LCAs at my place later, eh?


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## 16vracer (Jul 12, 1999)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (eggroller)*


_Quote, originally posted by *eggroller* »_I guess that means you don't need to install the LCAs at my place later, eh?









We'll have to do mine sometime soon I hope


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## eggroller (May 25, 2000)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (16vracer)*

Fred, We'll get you taken care of. Just need good used LCAs in exchange.


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## 16vracer (Jul 12, 1999)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (eggroller)*


_Quote, originally posted by *eggroller* »_Fred, We'll get you taken care of. Just need good used LCAs in exchange.

Well after talking to "805" and I think "grofta" or was it 7th gear? I think I'll go with the Hsport control arms. From what they said, the increased noise and harshness wont be much at all, something about less deflection and the suspension being able to do it;s job etc.
here's a quote from an IM from 805, talking about the spherical control arm bearings...he's using Shines, not Hsports but oh well:

" They're actually Shine's kit and the ride actually got better as there is less friction in the movement of the control arm. The wheel follows the ground and bumps better. The noise increase was minimal. I run 45 series tires and those are noisy."


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## 16vracer (Jul 12, 1999)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (16vracer)*

(ps, my money is on the sphearical units, cant wait till spring... woopee!!)

Modified by 7thGear at 5:39 PM 12-15-2005

It was 7th gear. Didn't actually talk to him, just read it


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## groftja (Jul 19, 2004)

Thanks for the write-up by the way!
Question: 

_Quote, originally posted by *phatvw* »_ 
*Driving impressions*
Not much difference. Perhaps steering and braking is a little tighter? Of course its raining here, so I couldn't really push it. I also need to get an alignment before I can really judge. 

Is this still true? That is, "not much difference". I hope you've been able to push the car hard in the dry since then. Thanks!


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## IndigoBlueWagon (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (phatvw)*

Hey phatvw, any update on driving on these since it's stopped raining out there (finally)? I'm thinking of doing this but it looks like a pretty big job unless mine are shot.


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## mrbart (Dec 18, 2005)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (IndigoBlueWagon)*

so for the front bushings, is p/n 357407182 the old audi bushings that will fit the front of a mk4? or is that p/n the stock mk4 bushing? also, aren't the 2 bushings up from different? howcome the same p/n?


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (mrbart)*

I think the Audi/VW part for the smaller bushing is the same. No need to upgrade. I read that there was a different part number for early TT control arms but have not been able to confirm that. 
As for driving impressions, I really can't say. I did this mod on my wifes Jetta too, but I put in a new suspension and brakes at the same time. I reckon that on their own, its not really worth the effort to swap the bushings. Its more of a while you're in there mod. But if you're serious about this stuff, every little bit helps I guess.


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## mrbart (Dec 18, 2005)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (phatvw)*

ya i'm putting in new shocks, already ordered that deluxe strut bolt kit from worldimpex, and i bet i need new bushings too.


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (mrbart)*

Bump. Added info for Corrado and Passat owners. These bushings should be plug and play for these cars as well.


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## 2.0LGtiPwr (Mar 23, 2002)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (phatvw)*

Just wondering how a lithium based lubricant grease would work when putting the bushings back in??


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## Shad (Feb 8, 2003)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (2.0LGtiPwr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2.0LGtiPwr* »_
Just wondering how a lithium based lubricant grease would work when putting the bushings back in??

Won't help at all. I've put the rear bushing in with just a hammer and a manual press. You better get the LCA to a shop with a hydro press, so they can install it in a couple minutres.


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## tashistation (Sep 6, 2003)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (Shad)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Shad* »_
Won't help at all. I've put the rear bushing in with just a hammer and a manual press. You better get the LCA to a shop with a hydro press, so they can install it in a couple minutres.

if you have a bench vice don't waste your time taking it to a shop.
All I did was use some lithium grease a vice and 3 blocks of wood. Just arrange the wood to protect the metal. 
Easy as pie.


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## pair o' dubs (Oct 28, 2001)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (tashistation)*

just bookmarking the good info here.
m.


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## CapeGLS (Aug 3, 2002)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (pair o' dubs)*

Just ordered some Meyle Bushings. My stockers are cracked and fairly beatup.
MJM is running a decent sale on them right now too!


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## '88Jetta16v (Sep 5, 2005)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (CapeGLS)*

Just in case anybody is still wondering, spherical bearing are a BAD idea for the street. They're strictly race car material where ride harshness doesn't matter and longevity is measured in minutes or hours and not years. First of all, there is no flex, just like poly bushings but worse. Second, they will not last long on the street becuase it won't take very long for dirt to work its way into the bearing and then they're cooked. For the street, OEM rubber is the only choice, whether it be original or R32/TT. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## TranAndy (Feb 20, 2005)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (16vracer)*

just what i needed


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## willy wont-e (Apr 29, 2007)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (16vracer)*

so im guessin this is what i want to get rid of that "shifty" left and right movement while out on the highway. i hate that feeling...


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## RoccHead (Dec 22, 2003)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (phatvw)*

I just put the TT rear control arm bushings in my AE, which already has the Shine Kit, with Koni's...no other changes with the bushings. The front bushings were OK, and I didn't have new ones to put in. I could feel the difference backing out the the garage. The acceleration is tighter, the braking is tighter. It is a worthwhile change.


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## tstar (Mar 28, 2007)

Is alignment necessary after this install?


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## gehr (Jan 28, 2004)

*Re: (tstar)*

Yes!


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## SRSVW (Jun 28, 2001)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? ('88Jetta16v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *’88Jetta16v* »_Just in case anybody is still wondering, spherical bearing are a BAD idea for the street. They're strictly race car material where ride harshness doesn't matter and longevity is measured in minutes or hours and not years. First of all, there is no flex, just like poly bushings but worse. Second, they will not last long on the street becuase it won't take very long for dirt to work its way into the bearing and then they're cooked. For the street, OEM rubber is the only choice, whether it be original or R32/TT. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


My experience doesnt bear this out at all!!!! Even though I dont suggest sphericals for the street,there are plenty that run them every day and dont have any problems at all. They last significantly longer than any other solution and the bearings are individually replaceable!
I can only assume that you had some unusual experience,or are going from some third hand opinion.One of my best friends has over 100K miles on these with no problems,and this is in New England!!! I really would like to hear from anyone that has had bad experiences with sphericals. They actually ride better than rubber and far better than poly. They do increase road noise and harshness over sharp bumps,but still much better than poly. They are simply unmatched for performance.
Dick Shine


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## G-Shock (Jun 14, 2002)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (SRSVW)*

Any more people with experiences with the sphericals?


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## 68redbug2000jetta (Sep 14, 2007)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (G-Shock)*

so i guess i get the boge ones instead of meyle?if so which company does sell the boges (i cant tell the difference unless i look up close).


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## mjb32803 (Mar 12, 2008)

I just installed H2Sport sphericals on my 97 Jetta GLX. Was part of a complete suspensioin overhall. Am running Neuspeed soft sport springs, Bilstein Touring Class struts / shocks. VF Engineering Front motor mount. Eurosport upper and lower tie bars. At has all gone into the car over the past month. There does not seem to be appreciable increase in "noise" while driving highways... hard bumps definitely are felt much more that with stock suspension parts.


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## stevemannn (Apr 17, 2008)

*Re: (mjb32803)*

i just installed the poly's today and i goota say i love them.
mine were so shot it was ridiculous but this really tightend it up...alot less body roll http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## X K R O M X (Jan 19, 2006)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (16vracer)*

I have quite a bit of history with spherical bearings if anyone is interested. ~Jarod


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## VWGolfA4 (Apr 5, 2000)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings? (X K R O M X)*

Well I mind as well ask since this post was bumped up...
Any difference betweeen the R32 and TT bushings? I am going to the dealer on Saturday to pick them up alone with an engine and tranny mount.
Then hopefully later on that day, I will have my Shine Springs, Bilstein HD Shocks/Struts and rims and tired installed







I cant wait!


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## joevw007 (Jun 4, 2008)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings/LCA install guide (phatvw)*

nice walkthrough.


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## jettaman18t (Sep 14, 2005)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings/LCA install guide (phatvw)*

will changing the control arm bushings with upgraded tt bushings fix squeaking from the front suspension. Ever since I put on my colovers my front end now squeaks when going over bumps.


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings/LCA install guide (jettaman18t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jettaman18t* »_will changing the control arm bushings with upgraded tt bushings fix squeaking from the front suspension. Ever since I put on my colovers my front end now squeaks when going over bumps. 

It probably won't fix your squeaking.
I would check all the bolts that were touched in your install as well as upper strut mounts/bearings. Make sure everything is torqued to OEM spec and not tightened with impact/air tools. Hand tools only.


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## jettaman18t (Sep 14, 2005)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings/LCA install guide (phatvw)*

do you have the torque numbers that everything is supposed to be tightened to? And who do i take it to so they can torque all the bolts to factory specs?


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## Vee-Dubber-GLI (Nov 27, 2006)

*Re: MkIV OEM control arm bushings/LCA install guide (jettaman18t)*

Great topic! Saw the .:R32 bushings on mjm and was considering them but wasnt sure of the improvement. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## The Kilted Yaksman (Oct 31, 2000)

*Re: (stevemannn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stevemannn* »_i just installed the poly's today and i goota say i love them.
mine were so shot it was ridiculous but this really tightend it up...alot less body roll http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Less body roll from bushings? That means your bushings aren't letting your suspension work correctly. There is a good reason why almost nobody, that actually knows about handling, recommends poly bushings for VW suspensions.


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## jok3r (Jul 19, 2005)

*Re: (The Kilted Yaksman)*

good point http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Horus (Sep 28, 2005)

*Re: (jok3r)*

some good info. i wouldn't recommend polys. unless you feel like replacing them every year or two. I'm replacing mine with the TT/R32 this weekend.


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Hey I am putting a set of the LCA HD bushings with a really low miles 20th suspsension setup, I picked them up from a good shop that does a lot of Euro OEM stuff, they are actually FEBJ/Bilstein brand, P/N is still the same but has an extra "B" at the end on the box, anyone used these? Are the pratically Meyle/OEM like?


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## dubstylee22 (Sep 28, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Jay-Bee)*

ok soooooo i get that poly bushings are bad for vw suspension... but what should I use? I am putting on tein basic damper coilovers, and fully adjustible neuspeed sways, and i wanna do something with the control arm/ bushings. I was wondering if this kit from ECSTuning is O.K? It is the stage II suspension rebuild kit:
-Audi TT/R32 heavy duty upgraded control arm bushings 
-Control Arm Hardware 
-Inner Tie Rod Ends 
-Outer Tie Rod Ends 
-Lower Balljoints (with hardware)
-Upper Strut Mounts 
-Upper Strut Bearing


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## fastskier (Jul 5, 2004)

*Getting Front LCA bolt (18mm) out on drivers side*

on a 2.0L with Auto. As described above it wants to hit the tranny oil pan before it will come out. Any tips to getting it out without having to undo a bunch of stuff to move the tranny out of the way? I'm thinking if I were able to get everything else loose I may be able to rotate it enough to get the bolt to come out.
Anyone?
Thanks


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## fastskier (Jul 5, 2004)

I tried a bunch of things but couldn't get anywhere. To anyone who's taken off the dogbone mount - do you think that would allow the tranny to move enough to get the bolt out?
Thanks
edit - don't bother taking the dogbone mount out - you can't get enough movement !! Arrgh.
edit 2 - jackpot - as posted on TDIclub - remove dogbone mount (2 large bolts connecting tranny and engine. (after taking weight off with jack). lower jack and using the jack from the tire change kit in the trunk - push engine and tranny forward enough to get the bolt out. Hopefully this saves someone 4 hours!!

_Modified by fastskier at 9:34 PM 12-16-2008_


_Modified by fastskier at 10:04 PM 12-16-2008_


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## elio (Nov 15, 2006)

*Re: (fastskier)*

Hi friends. I am in the process of install a new heavy duty solid rear front control arm bushings (Rear bushing aka donut bushing), but I have a big doubt. Original bushings with holes have a mark the need to be aligned in the A-Arm to be installed correctly but new Audi ones, does not have it, or I do not see an special mark for that purpose, then how do you install it? any position will be ok becuase it does not have any holes?
I appreciatte your help.
Thanks a lot in advance.


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## dtm337 (Jun 11, 2004)

*Re: (elio)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elio* »_Hi friends. I am in the process of install a new heavy duty solid rear front control arm bushings (Rear bushing aka donut bushing), but I have a big doubt. Original bushings with holes have a mark the need to be aligned in the A-Arm to be installed correctly but new Audi ones, does not have it, or I do not see an special mark for that purpose, then how do you install it? any position will be ok becuase it does not have any holes?
I appreciatte your help.
Thanks a lot in advance.

yep there round or all the same so pos does not really matter ... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## galleystoker (Mar 22, 2006)

*front nutsert broke off*

ok my pass side front nutsert broke off and the bolt is spinning. Can you tell me where to drill a hole and how big it has to be to get everything out? I was thinking if i cut the bolt with saws all, i could remove it and then get the nutsert out at the same time, will this work with out drilling a hole? BTW I removed oil pan to get to the bolt. The po had tons of permatex around the pan and no gasket so needed to take off anyway.


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