# First turbo build!



## soulskate7 (Dec 10, 2009)

I've finally decided to take the plunge and go for my first turbo setup on my mkiv vr6. I've got a somewhat rough list of parts i need. Starting to realize i'll need some other miscellaneous things as well such as a new clutch and lsd, but so far i'm thinkin that should be enough to set it up for now?  I'm also looking to meet and get advice from anyone and everyone that has done this before seeing as this will be my first. And yes i am going through as many of the forums and threads i can. But any additional help or advice would be much appreciated, thanks in advance.


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## BoostedDubVR6T420 (Dec 4, 2009)

Maybe some info on what parts you have already compiled together, besides telling us you need a new clutch and LSD. Ill tell you this, honestly if you still have questions or doubts, now is'nt the time to build. You will get stuck with things and have to wait for replys. Learn more, get a better parts list, then tell us you're ready to make your knuckles bleed.:thumbup:


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## vr6vr6vr6gtigti (Nov 18, 2010)

i want to get a turbo but idk all the **** ill need, so basically idk where to start, just wondering for suggestions on what turbo and all the **** id need...


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## zoidmk5 (Sep 17, 2006)

for those with limited to no turbo knowledge, but have basic mechanical experience and want to get their hands dirty, a basic Kinetics turbo kit is your friend. everything needed to do an install is there, and you won't have to mess with anything internally. an LSD is not 100% needed unless you plan on building something extreme


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## slcturbo (Apr 19, 2010)

zoidmk5 said:


> for those with limited to no turbo knowledge, but have basic mechanical experience and want to get their hands dirty, a basic Kinetics turbo kit is your friend. everything needed to do an install is there, and you won't have to mess with anything internally. an LSD is not 100% needed unless you plan on building something extreme


Good advice:thumbup:. I would add a boost gauge and wideband to that basic kit.

LSD and soft tires aren't required, but will help you use some of that power. Big torque fwd's are wheelspin machines in 1st and 2nd with those items and even worse without them.


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## V-dubbulyuh (Nov 13, 2005)

Does the search function on Vortex even work anymore?


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## soulskate7 (Dec 10, 2009)

I don't know if i'm 100% set on a kinetics kit, due to the pricing. Quick question though has anyone had any problems with the clutch on a stage2 kit.

I'm still favoring piecing my own kit together because it will be more power for a lot less. I just know i'll need to upgrade the clutch for sure Unless of course i could get away with a kinetic stage 2 and stock clutch. 

Any thoughts on this?


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## tesh0boy (Dec 7, 2009)

If you really think your going to get a lot more power for a lot less then one of the kits, from scratch, send me over some of whatever your smoking:screwy:. I've been looking to go FI for a few years now and am finally taking the plunge this winter aswell as long as my funds secure. But before even considering starting anything you should really seriously take a look at how much you are willing to spend overall, If you have to do maintenance aswell while it's all out, If your paying a shop to od it then the labor on top of it, etc. It get's really expensive quick, read up on some thorugh build threads and you will see what I'm talking about, it easily get in the $6,000+ range just with stupid small things you never think of at the time until your in there. For ****s and giggles, one of these days sit down and put a list together and do some window shopping online to total up all your expenses, and that should give you a general idea what it's gonna cost you. If your like me and budget minded, only looking for a light/mild build, look into a pre-made kit such as a kinetic's kit, that's what I'll be purchasing since it's a steal for everything you get vs buying it all seperate new, then over the years I'll be adding on slowly to customize it.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

tesh0boy said:


> If you really think your going to get a lot more power for a lot less then one of the kits, from scratch, send me over some of whatever your smoking:screwy:. I've been looking to go FI for a few years now and am finally taking the plunge this winter aswell as long as my funds secure. But before even considering starting anything you should really seriously take a look at how much you are willing to spend overall, If you have to do maintenance aswell while it's all out, If your paying a shop to od it then the labor on top of it, etc. It get's really expensive quick, read up on some thorugh build threads and you will see what I'm talking about, it easily get in the $6,000+ range just with stupid small things you never think of at the time until your in there. For ****s and giggles, one of these days sit down and put a list together and do some window shopping online to total up all your expenses, and that should give you a general idea what it's gonna cost you. If your like me and budget minded, only looking for a light/mild build, look into a pre-made kit such as a kinetic's kit, that's what I'll be purchasing since it's a steal for everything you get vs buying it all seperate new, then over the years I'll be adding on slowly to customize it.


If you shop around and wait for deals you can spend a lot less than a kinetics kit. I spent 1500 or so on my 16v. The only difference between mine and that is a few extra bucks on software, maybe bringing the total to 2k.


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## zoidmk5 (Sep 17, 2006)

tesh0boy said:


> If you really think your going to get a lot more power for a lot less then one of the kits, from scratch, send me over some of whatever your smoking:screwy:. I've been looking to go FI for a few years now and am finally taking the plunge this winter aswell as long as my funds secure. But before even considering starting anything you should really seriously take a look at how much you are willing to spend overall, If you have to do maintenance aswell while it's all out, If your paying a shop to od it then the labor on top of it, etc. It get's really expensive quick, read up on some thorugh build threads and you will see what I'm talking about, it easily get in the $6,000+ range just with stupid small things you never think of at the time until your in there. For ****s and giggles, one of these days sit down and put a list together and do some window shopping online to total up all your expenses, and that should give you a general idea what it's gonna cost you. If your like me and budget minded, only looking for a light/mild build, look into a pre-made kit such as a kinetic's kit, that's what I'll be purchasing since it's a steal for everything you get vs buying it all seperate new, then over the years I'll be adding on slowly to customize it.


without a doubt, buying seperate will save you some cash. the reason why i said just buy the kinetics is because for first time turbo guys, everything is there. so long as you take your time and follow the directions you are golden. maybe in the future the OP will want to sell the Kinetics kit and start piecing together something a little more extreme. i'm just looking at this from a knowledge standpoint, if you don't know what your doing than buy a kit made specifically for your application and for specific power goals, don't just piece something together not knowing if the parts will even work with each other


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## hennyking (Dec 22, 2010)

i been lookin for a thread like myself with knowledgeable people willing to help me out, i am somewhat new to the turbo game, and have put together a list of parts i like/hear good things about for the turbo build of my 04 R32.. my target hp goal is around 500 to the wheels, maybe a little less till i can build the engine, with a great tune these engines can hold 500 hp on stock internals

Turbonetics Ceramic Ball Bearing TO4E Turbo 57 Trim F1-57 A/R .63
or
Garrett gt3582R cant decide between either one, was hoping if someone can tell me the pros cons of either one, (if i go wit the garrett, im still not sure/understand inlet housing and such, i understand a/r and the such, but since im lookin for more low end boost then high end, im not sure what configuration to go with, this is really where i need the most assistance and since ive joined this website no one has been willing to help, and trust me ive searched and tried lol)i hear the garrett is much more reliable, which is why im leaning more towards the garrett
ARP head stud kit
usp test pipe
milltek 3"
head spacer to 9:1 until i can do piston/rod combo
FMIC tho im not sure which brand to go with, since it will be a daily driver that is NOT being pushed to the limits, im sure ill be fine with a less then rediculously expensive set up
short shifter
Billet 95mm MAF housing
C2 SRI
Walboro 255 inline
fidanza flywheel
nuespeed pulley (just for the f*ck of it lol)
630cc injectors
c2/unitronic software, whichever is better for my setup prob c2
3" downpipe
dont know which wastegate would be ideal
(need some clarification on combatting surge, thermostatic oil coolers for this NY climate i live in, and ceramic coating of vital heat producers)

as u can see i have a lot of questions to be answered, i have a great shop that could answer all these but i wanted to search the net and gather as much reliable info i can before calling the shop


since im on a budget i prob wont just go with a kit as i do not have 6 grand all at once to splurge, the plan is to gather as much reliable info i can,,,,,
when i get fed up with the stuck up people on this website who rather tell me off cuz im not as knowledgeable as they are and just call my guy at the shop i am going to put together a complete list of every part i need,,,,, and slowly start buying components here and there with every pay check

i figure if i dont get the answers i want in a week im just callin my guy at the shop, im sure some of you are reading this and saying why i dont i just do this from the begining and the only answer i have for you is like most of you at one point, u came on to this website to see what has worked and not worked for others with the same goals as you, but at the end of the day im takin the word of my tech at the shop then the internet, as there are some people on here that act like they know everything and they really dont, on the flipside i do know for a fact theyre are some excellent tuners on here, so im just here doin research, welcome to input!!!:laugh:


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## hennyking (Dec 22, 2010)

lookin for a thread like this******


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

hennyking said:


> i been lookin for a thread like myself with knowledgeable people willing to help me out, i am somewhat new to the turbo game, and have put together a list of parts i like/hear good things about for the turbo build of my 04 R32.. my target hp goal is around 500 to the wheels, maybe a little less till i can build the engine, with a great tune these engines can hold 500 hp on stock internals
> 
> Turbonetics Ceramic Ball Bearing TO4E Turbo 57 Trim F1-57 A/R .63
> or
> ...


.


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## hennyking (Dec 22, 2010)

see now im doin more research and see that (apparrantly) a 8.5:1 spacer would be a lot better for what im looking for then a 9:1...


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## slcturbo (Apr 19, 2010)

hennyking said:


> see now im doin more research and see that (apparrantly) a 8.5:1 spacer would be a lot better for what im looking for then a 9:1...


8.5:1 = Can run more boost without knock, but will make less power up to knock point

9:1 = Can run less boost without knock, but will make more power up to knock point

I chose 9:1 for my goals, but only because I only run ~15psi max on the street on 93 octane. 20psi is my limit at the track and some MS109 (105 octane) helps keep detonation away. I wanted to make the most power I could at the track at 20psi so 9:1 w/ some race gas was the answer.

The advice I got for 12V vrs was:

9:1= up to 15psi on pump gas(91-93). More boost with meth or race gas.

8.5:1= over 15psi on pump gas.


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## hennyking (Dec 22, 2010)

thanks man, that makes sense, so maybe i will stick wit the 9:1.. i dont plan on ever running more then 20psi so that will probably work well for me... oh and btw... merry christmas!:grinsanta:


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## hennyking (Dec 22, 2010)

Dave926 said:


> .



thanks for that, so wit that being said the garrett turbo is my best choice? and someone was telling me that the problem with oil cooling in ny is the weather is so extreme in summer and winter that in the winter the oil cooler is useless cuz the oil never gets hot but in the summer it gets too hot, so apparantly there is some kind of oil cooler system that only cools the oil if it hits 180 degrees, and doesnt touch it otherwise.... to me that sounds like what a normal should do anyways, but like i said im just going off what others told me on this website... i aprreciate all your help man!


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## slcturbo (Apr 19, 2010)

hennyking said:


> thanks for that, so wit that being said the garrett turbo is my best choice? and someone was telling me that the problem with oil cooling in ny is the weather is so extreme in summer and winter that in the winter the oil cooler is useless cuz the oil never gets hot but in the summer it gets too hot, so apparantly there is some kind of oil cooler system that only cools the oil if it hits 180 degrees, and doesnt touch it otherwise.... to me that sounds like what a normal should do anyways, but like i said im just going off what others told me on this website... i aprreciate all your help man!


Not trying to be a dk, but you should start a thread. People will be more than happy to help you. We just don't want to side track the original posters thread:beer:


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## hennyking (Dec 22, 2010)

sorry lol i just joined this forum bout a week ago, still learning proper vwvortex ettiquett lol and sorry OP didnt mean to step on toes


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## hennyking (Dec 22, 2010)

just started my own thread, would love to hear from all u guys:biggrinsanta:


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## IT Guy (Oct 8, 2010)

*search?*



V-dubbulyuh said:


> Does the search function on Vortex even work anymore?


yes, it just worked for ME !!!

i was looking for info re Turbonetics T3 with an intercooler for $800, or an ATP Garret GT2X for $600 (kit is for a 1.8) I have 1 97 12vVR6. Chipped, cams (268's?), cai, exhaust, bought it this way. Was built and tuned for turbo, which got scavanged before I got the car. Allegedly was a 400 hp set up. now with no turbo my combution is crap and I need to retune or re turbo. That or super charge it... but I'm pretty strapped.


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## V-dubbulyuh (Nov 13, 2005)

IT Guy said:


> yes, it just worked for ME !!!


You are apparently one of the few that can find the search button in the upper right of the screen. Kudos to you Sir. :thumbup:


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