# the ARP website sucks... installing 8v Head Studs



## Southcross (Jul 2, 2004)

so I can't find my installation instructions for my 8v Head Studs... ARP has nothing on their website for torquing data (and Google has failed me)








Does someone have the original "in box" instructions? Isn't it something like (using ARP moly lube) 45, 55, then final 65lb torque? or 35, 45, 55 final?


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## ABA Scirocco (May 30, 2001)

*Re: the ARP website sucks... installing 8v Head Studs (Southcross)*

The specs are on page 24 of the current catalog, middle columns, second from the bottom. It doesn't mention a particular sequence it just says 90 ft-lbs if you're using 30wt oil and 71 ft-lbs if you're using the ARP moly lube.


_Modified by ABA Scirocco at 6:33 AM 7-12-2009_


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## Southcross (Jul 2, 2004)

*FV-QR*

ya... problem is, if you read the "fine print" that the table doesn't apply to all installations, and the "final" torque value is based on the "Coarse Thread Yield Strength". The 8v head studs are 11x1.5mm into the block and another thread (SAE 7/16"?) at the top. one is a final torque of 71, the other is a final torque of 65 or 70 (depending on the threads)... not a big difference, but I'd rather have it be correct and to spec and not risk a failure


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## ABA Scirocco (May 30, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (Southcross)*

I doubt 5 ft-lbs one way or the other would risk failure but I understand where you're coming from. Sorry I can't help any more than that unless I can find the ARP stud box I know had around here somewhere, no promises but I'll look.


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## Southcross (Jul 2, 2004)

*FV-QR*

I sent an email to ARP tech support... if I don't hear back from them (honestly, I'll probably have an email probably 5-mins after their office opens... their direct support is awesome) I'll go with the 70 ft/lbs torque rating (30, 50, 70 final)


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## Southcross (Jul 2, 2004)

*FV-QR*

hmmm.... 80! a lot higher than I remember on the instruction sheet

_Quote »_The studs go hand tight into the block and with ARP moly lube the nuts
torque to 80ft.lbs.
Kammy Echiribel 
Automotive Racing Products
Sales, Tech and Returns


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## Southcross (Jul 2, 2004)

*FV-QR*

interesting... interesting... interesting....
AutoTech just faxed me the original instruction sheet...
Two sets of torque specs:
70ft lbs
*65ft lbs in Aluminum (doesn't specify if its the head and/or engine)


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## 8valvinsleeper (Jul 13, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Southcross)*

The way ive always been taught to do it is different...
ARP headstuds are roll-cut. The threads are cut in a 'wave' pattern which gets rid of harsh corners that would normally act as great stress/break points. Ive been told that when installing roll-cut threads on a sharp-cut block, it is best to coat the threads with silicone first. If the head bolt is installed into a water jacket, water can actually seep through the "caves" between the roll cut and sharp cut threads. Another reason is just that when extra space is between threads, any engine vibration or harmonic can travel into that stud and shake it out. Using Silicone will act as a deadener zone between the 2 different thread types. Ive seen guys torque them 25-45-65 and ive seen guys do 35-45-65 on the arp head nuts. When installing the studs, just tighten them in with the allen head. If you decide to use silicone on the threads, make sure you have the head prepared to install first. The head should be torqued to its full torque specs before the silicone dries (20 minutes).


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## Southcross (Jul 2, 2004)

*FV-QR*

silicon? into the water jacket on a VW block?








uhm... I know "how" to install ARP head studs, I've just been missing the final torque value(s)


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## 8valvinsleeper (Jul 13, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Southcross)*

which is why i said that "if a head stud is installed into a water jacket". Such as a chevy 350. I wasnt referring to this engine exactly but it is good practice to do this. IF for any reason, water were down in the threads on a vw motor when the stud was installed, it can expand (boil) from temperature and put a crack in the block. Drying out the holes is important. I understand you have different practices made for different engines out there, but a general practice ive been told is to put silicone on ARP headstuds. Call me wrong, but ive seen plenty of drag racers do it even on engines where the headbolts dont go into the water jacket (such as a vw).


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## 8valvinsleeper (Jul 13, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (8valvinsleeper)*

ARP WEBSITE:
NOTE: To ensure positive sealing of "wet" head studs, a hardening or semi-hardening sealant, such as Loc-Tite or Permatex, etc. should be used. Some engine builders employ a sealer in the coolant, such as Aluma-Seal, Silver Seal or K&W sealer, etc. You may also use high temperature RTV silicone. Whatever product is used, it is imperative that the cylinder head is installed and torqued to proper levels BEFORE THE SEALANT HAS CURED.
Do whatever you want, i used silicone RTV and havent had a problem, ive never heard of anyone else.


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## Southcross (Jul 2, 2004)

*FV-QR*

great tip, I'll remember that the next time I'm installing a small block v8


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## 8valvinsleeper (Jul 13, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Southcross)*

yeah i didnt know the exact application. I knew there was a few reasons for doing it. I build alot of different engines from 13B Wankel Rotary to GenIII chevy 5.7L (LS), SR20, VG30s and alot of VW motors. Ive just always been told to use silicone regardless. Personal Choice.


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