# oil catch can setups, which way is best?



## jedge1.8t (Jan 27, 2012)

i installed a crank case/VC to catch can to TIP catch can and im not impressed at all. 

i get milky residue in the return line to the TIP and my throttle body still is getting oil. 

any suggestions on how to improve this so I have a effective catch can?


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## David_Tedder (Oct 24, 2005)

what catch can kit did you choose? or did you make your own?


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## jedge1.8t (Jan 27, 2012)

I got a ebay one, and baffled, connected one end to the TIP and other to the VC and crank case


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## jedge1.8t (Jan 27, 2012)

here will be my new setup. im probably going to fill the can up with some large nails or something so i get a thick baffle but non-air restrictive. The hard part right now is figuring out how to make a filter before the TIP and try to keep it from clogging


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## K20017 (Nov 14, 2007)

Why do you have that check valve in the middle? The lines from the valve cover and crank case go into the catch can and the outlet of the catch can goes into the intake for vacuum, why is there a line from your intake to that 4-way connection?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

3/4" lines everywhere?

Quality catch can?

Recirc

This setup works really well for everyone else including me. I suggest you don't reinvent the wheel


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## jedge1.8t (Jan 27, 2012)

Its how your PCV system works, in a bentley you will see that pcv breather valve (hockey puck valve) the valve actually both slows down air entering your crank. 

i might ditch this idea and put another small cone filter from the check valve because i find it hard to see significant pushing air into the back into the system from the TIP, a cone filter with a pcv valve behind the radiator seems more promising.


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## turbo2205 (May 1, 2005)

groggory said:


> 3/4" lines everywhere?
> 
> Quality catch can?
> 
> ...


 an ebay can filled with nails sound like quality? :screwy:


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## jedge1.8t (Jan 27, 2012)

the nails i will admit was a terrible idea, but i decided to make coil of wire, or mesh and squeeze it into the ebay can. should be better than sheet metal with holes. 

catch cans ive seen only come in three ways, a can with two ports, a can with two ports plus a ventilation filter, or multi chambered ventilated $600 catch cans for drag cars. there isnt much design to a catch can to shell out the extra 100 dollars. i dont see why you would ever need to spend that much on a can with essentially two lines going into it. 

the best solution would just be a designated vacuum pump, i dont like the exhaust venturi design because the thought oil hitting my cat and sooting up worries me some. 

3/4 lines are only used


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

:facepalm: No can is the best


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## Mr.V-Dub (Jun 4, 2007)

Big_Tom said:


> :facepalm: No can is the best


 x1,000,000,000,000


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## jedge1.8t (Jan 27, 2012)

I prefer oil not going into my compressor, intercoolers, throttle body and intake and most of all my combustion chamber.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

jedge1.8t said:


> I prefer oil not going into my compressor, intercoolers, throttle body and intake and most of all my combustion chamber.


 i bet ya 50 bux i have less oil in my intake/intercooler setup than you


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## jedge1.8t (Jan 27, 2012)

well then care to explain your pcv setup, or is it stock?


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

3/4" heater hose to the floor, and a breather filter on the valve cover. no possible way for oil to get into my intake tract unless my turbo seals start passing oil. and they aren't. GARRETT FTW


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

There's a saying in spanish. "Lo barato sale caro"

Direct translation... Cheap stuff ends up costing you more in the end. Don't be a cheap ass. Spend money on a quality kit the first time. 

There are plenty of people that make affordable ones of a decent design.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Big_Tom said:


> 3/4" heater hose to the floor, and a breather filter on the valve cover. no possible way for oil to get into my intake tract unless my turbo seals start passing oil. and they aren't. GARRETT FTW


 Tom, I know a few people that have had garret chra turbo where the oil seals passed oil.... Just like the PTE units. It CAN happen.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

schwartzmagic said:


> Tom, I know a few people that have had garret chra turbo where the oil seals passed oil.... Just like the PTE units. It CAN happen.
> 
> Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


 yeah it can happen if your oil feed and return setups are not correct. mine did smoke sometimes about a yea and a half ago because i had too tight of a bend in my return line. It's now been fixed, been about 30k with no smoke :thumbup:


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## Mr.V-Dub (Jun 4, 2007)

Or any other turbo


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Mr.V-Dub said:


> Or any other turbo


 exactly. any turbo  :beer:


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## zrau17 (Apr 21, 2010)

Big_Tom said:


> 3/4" heater hose to the floor, and a breather filter on the valve cover. no possible way for oil to get into my intake tract unless my turbo seals start passing oil. and they aren't. GARRETT FTW


 I think I'm gonna go this way. I keep seeing it and it makes sense lol. Literally take a 3/4" peice of hose and just bend ot right down at the ground? Sounds perfect. Seeing as though I do have a nice catch can though I may pull the VC vapors out though.

Sent from my SGH-T959V using Tapatalk 2


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

zrau17 said:


> I think I'm gonna go this way. I keep seeing it and it makes sense lol. Literally take a 3/4" peice of hose and just bend ot right down at the ground? Sounds perfect. Seeing as though I do have a nice catch can though I may pull the VC vapors out though.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T959V using Tapatalk 2


 :thumbup: get a couple 90 degree elbow bends and ur good


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## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

Big_Tom said:


> :thumbup: get a couple 90 degree elbow bends and ur good


 So you have an open pipe that feeds right back to the block breather? Sounds like a perfect way for bugs to get into the motor.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> So you have an open pipe that feeds right back to the block breather? Sounds like a perfect way for bugs to get into the motor.


 HA! bugs :laugh:


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## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

Big_Tom said:


> HA! bugs :laugh:


 You're in Florida, homie... I've heard stories of waking up to a kitchen crawling with cockroaches and **** from my grams who used to live there years ago.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ what  cmon now :facepalm: that's not an issue over here :screwy:


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## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

Big_Tom said:


> ^^^ what  cmon now :facepalm: that's not an issue over here :screwy:


 I'm from boston, I don't know **** about humid summer climates.. just going on what I've heard :laugh:


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Big_Tom said:


> :facepalm: No can is the best


 True, but the eBay specials are the WORST. Get something big and made in the US, all you'll do is waste money


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## jedge1.8t (Jan 27, 2012)

there are three problems i see with your setup 

1:where is your condensened gas and water vapors escaping from your valve cover? 
2. i would be worried about moisture and dust going into your crank 
3: you have no desginated vacuum sucking vapors out 
+ your car engine probably smells like oil all the time so if a real oil leaking related problem will be harder to notice 

if you do this setup i would advise running it like this, but you still have no vacuum on releasing vapors but will still rid the condensed vapors 










as for everyone against cheap oil catch cans, if you show me catch can design that works very effeciently then im all ears, but as i stated I havent seen any differences besides the size, and i dont want a enormus can under my hood, the TT engine compartment is already small enough to work in


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ i don't have any of those problems. you just want a catch can so, get 1. l8r :wave:


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## K20017 (Nov 14, 2007)

Force Fed catch can. Vents to atmosphere. Car doesn't smell like oil either. 

Doesn't fit your size requirements though, but it works.


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## jedge1.8t (Jan 27, 2012)

wow nice setup. care to explain what a force fed can is? 

anyways the TT compartment is to small for a large can. and for the record i would love to run a canless system the problem i see with road draft tubes is that they dont vacuum out vapors 

there a three things to achieve in a perfect turbo PCV system. 

1: vacuum to pull vapors 
2: ventilation for boost 
3: no contamination into your induction system. 

show me how to get it without buying a vacuum pump


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Force fed can. Can made by force fed engineering

Exhaust Venturi with check valve, dumping behind cat would work


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## jedge1.8t (Jan 27, 2012)

the problem i see with exhaust venturis is i dont know what evidence can support them to have a vacuum pull on a the crank case, there a positive pressure not a vacuum pressure. plus I feel it would make me fail smog. 

so far the only really way to have a concrete pcv system is to run the diagram i suggested for big_tom but at the bottom have a vacuum pump and either atmosphere it or collect it in a charcoal filtered ventilted catch can 

i just dont like the idea of having a pump always running, more things to go wrong plus there would be a annoying sound.


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## jedge1.8t (Jan 27, 2012)

i found this link to be the most helpful and help show alot of factors that play into the pcv system 

http://www.sr20-forum.com/informati...ly-explained-naturally-aspirated-edition.html 

i maybe actually going exhaust venturi now, but to add ventilation ill add a filter and check valve before crank, I can easily then reroute the system back into the inlet for smog


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

jedge1.8t said:


> i found this link to be the most helpful and help show alot of factors that play into the pcv system
> 
> http://www.sr20-forum.com/informati...ly-explained-naturally-aspirated-edition.html
> 
> i maybe actually going exhaust venturi now, but to add ventilation ill add a filter and check valve before crank, I can easily then reroute the system back into the inlet for smog


 Thats n/a motor stuff. we don't need vacuum or a vacuum pump to pull out the fumes. You don't even need to worry about that. Also I've been a member or the sr20 forum for over 9 years


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## K20017 (Nov 14, 2007)

Sorry, force fed catch can sounds confusing. 

I don't see any reason to run a vacuum, it has pressure in there that drives out the fumes on its own. Every time I have checked my catch can, it has been bone dry. Hell, even the lines too. 

So in your case, just run the lines to the ground and be done with it.


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## jedge1.8t (Jan 27, 2012)

this is the route ill take, i have one way flow of ventilation and one way flow of vacuum and exit source, plus and it will be easy to switch for smog. downside to this is that i will have oil vapors exiting from exhaust.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

jedge1.8t said:


> this is the route ill take, i have one way flow of ventilation and one way flow of vacuum and exit source, plus and it will be easy to switch for smog. downside to this is that i will have oil vapors exiting from exhaust.


 
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DTC-785-10096/ 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-97800/


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## jedge1.8t (Jan 27, 2012)

your awesome groggory, thanks alot man, cheapest price ive ever seen


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

jedge1.8t said:


> your awesome groggory, thanks alot man, cheapest price ive ever seen


 Or.. 
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-97810/ 

if you wanna weld it in


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## jedge1.8t (Jan 27, 2012)

most likely doing the weld in one, hoping it the check vslve screws into that one as well


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## BenFenner (Sep 25, 2009)

Bump from the grave.



Big_Tom said:


> Thats n/a motor stuff.


I wrote a turbo edition as well: http://www.sr20-forum.com/informati...ion-fully-explained-turbocharged-edition.html


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