# Hitting the wall with diagnosing.



## ronokenneally (Nov 5, 2012)

So I’ve just bought a 2006 Jetta 2.0T FSI from a friend knowing that it had some issues. I have been trying to get to the bottom of them but now I’m hitting a wall. My friend has tried to have it fixed and it kept coming back with problems. I have a long list of coded that have been shown with the car. I think there has been more than one problem with the list of coded that I have, and some of them have been resolved, so I’ll try and put it in a time line along with changes made as some codes were resolved. This is a bit of a mouth full but hopefully the specifics will help narrow it down.


Before I owned the car (I don’t have the full picture of the all the codes or changes made)

P310B
P2187
P2181
*P0299 (not relevant)
Parts that I think were changed in trying to resolve the problems;
Fuel filter
*DV (it was actually broken not sure if I have the code listed. No really relevant)
Spark plugs
PCV (I’m not sure if this was actually replaced)
G410 sensor


Since I bought the car (it was parked up for a few months and I think it was worse than when the previous owner had seen)

So when I bought the car it was parked up for a few months. When I started to drive it I took it very easy as it was -15 C. After a few minutes I give it a bit more throttle and it threw a check engine light with shuddering and almost no power. The check engine light would blink whenever it was under WOT. The shuddering would happen if I gave it WOT bellow 3000 RPM. If I did it above that there wouldn’t be any shuddering but there would still be no power. It felt like it was keeping any boost from me. I scanned the car and got the following;


P0300
P0301
P310B
P2187
P129F

I started to focus on P129F. With VCDS I looked at the Fuel pressure parameters as per the YouTube guide listed on Ross-tech. I found that the G410 Sensor was fractionally out of the suggested range. Then I looked at B310B I noted that the duty cycle shown in MBV 106 was close to 90%. I changed the sensor and followed the TSB 01-07-69 guide. This made a slight improvement but still significantly reduced power. I decided to change the fuel filter next again this made a slight improvement but still MIL blinking and reduced power. Next I replaced the LPFP with the latest model and recalibrated it with VCDS. This dropped the duty cycle to the normal range but there was still only a slight improvement. I started to look at the fuel filter that I put in and noticed that people have been talking about different pressure regulators in the filters, I thought that maybe I put in the wrong one and someone else had done this before. So I changed the filter out for the latest VW OEM 6.6 Bar filter. Again this made an slight improvement (it is a little weird how it gradually improved) but still MIL shuddering etc. I asked a friend and he said to focus on the misfire issue first. So I changed the coil in cylinder one with no change. He helped me to take a look at it one evening and saw the spark plug brand and said that they were a crap brand and changed them out. I cleared the codes and took it for a spin. It drove like it should and no check engine light. So I thought the problem was solved. I drove it for a few days and it seemed to be fine. Thinking the problem was solved I went off and got it remapped with a stage 1+ Ultratronic tune. 


When remapped;
P2187

To go back a bit I didn’t mention that I broke off one of the metal clips that connects the engine cover to the intake tubing just after the MAF. I didn’t think this was an issue as it looks like it was still well sealed. When I got the car remapped I got told it had a P2187 again from the garage who I got it tuned from. I thought no worries that must be the leak from the damaged connection. I fixed that cleared the code and it seemed problem free.



It still drove okay for a few days and then the MIL came back again.

The codes this time;
P2187
P2293 

I have changed the front PCV valve, I think this was done by the previous owner. I actually haven’t got to clear the codes since I have replaced this. 

A few other notes about how it runs / drives;
Also when I take off the oil cap while the car is idling, it pushes / pluses air out of the oil cap and the idle gets very rough. 
I have noticed that the car doesn’t sound like the smoothest of engines, I know DI engines sound a little like a diesel but this sounds like a little more than just a DI car. I can’t say for sure as I haven’t heard it before any of the issues. 
I also noticed that it has oil around the oil cap which I saw is a sign of the PCV. That could have been from a spill though
The previous owner has commented that it burns oil and needs to be topped up between services.

At the moment It still seems to be driving fine, no blinking MIL or shuddering. Although it is too hard to say for sure as there is too much snow to push the car on a bit to see how it is really driving. 


I’m thinking the next step is to of taking off the rocker cover and taking a look at the intake cam, and HPFP Cam follower.


Thanks for reading. Any insight would be appreciated.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

for the pcv just get a block off plate.


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## vwsm (Jan 21, 2006)

you already answered your own problem.
Replace the P.C.V probable cracked or plugged very common.
If you see any oil leakage from the front or rear crankseal you'll be right on track.


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## ronokenneally (Nov 5, 2012)

So I have replaced the PCV with a block off plate it cleared any codes for 3 days and last night I got a check engine light. I scanned the car and got the following four codes

16891/P0507/001287 - Idle Control System RPM: Higher than Expected.
18619/P2187/008583 - Bank 1; System too Lean at Idle
18711/P2279/008825 - Leak in Air Intake System
18725/P2293/008851 - Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve (N276): Mechanical Malfunction

Do these codes together look familiar to anyone? What would be my next step?

Thanks


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## BlueDevil504 (Jan 19, 2012)

This website is very helpful with fault codes. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Main_Page

*16891/P0507/001287 - Idle Control System RPM: Higher than Expected.*

*Possible Symptoms*
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) active
*Possible Causes*
Throttle Valve Control Module (J338) dirty/faulty
Wiring/Connector(s) from/to Throttle Valve Control Module (J338)
Vacuum Leak
*Possible Solutions*
Check Throttle Valve Control Module (J338)
Check Wiring/Connector(s) from/to Throttle Valve Control Module (J338)
Check Intake System for Leaks
*Special Notes*
When found in the NAR 2.0T (BPY) check RVUTB: 01-09-03 or 2018919 for updated Crankcase Breather Valve
If the breather valve is faulty, full engine vacuum is typically found when removing the oil cap at idle.

*18619/P2187/008583 - Bank 1; System too Lean at Idle*

*Possible Causes*
Injectors leak/blocked
Air Intake Leak (after MAF)
Exhaust Leak
*Possible Solutions*
Check Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
Check Injector(s)
Check Fuel Pump
Check Activated Charcoal Filter (EVAP) System Solenoid Valve 1 (N80)
*Special Notes*
When found in the NAR 2.0T (BPY) check RVUTB: 01-09-03 or 2018919 for updated Crankcase Breather Valve
If the breather valve is faulty, full engine vacuum is typically found when removing the oil cap at idle.

*18711/P2279/008825 - Leak in Air Intake System*

*Possible Symptoms*
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) active
*Possible Causes*
Vacuum Leak
Intake Manifold Runner Position out of Specification
Faulty Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) System or Heating Element (N79)
*Possible Solutions*
Check Intake System for Leaks
Check Intake Manifold Runner
Check (PCV) System and / or Heating Element if applicable
*Special Notes*
When found in the NAR 2.0T (BPY) check RVUTB: 01-09-03 or 2018919 for updated Crankcase Breather Valve
If the breather valve is faulty, full engine vacuum is typically found when removing the oil cap at idle.

*18725/P2293/008851 - Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve (N276): Mechanical Malfunction
*
*Possible Symptoms*
Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ON
Power Loss
Possible Causes
Fuel Pressure too Low
Intake Camshaft Failure
*Possible Solutions*
Check Measuring Values for Fuel Pressure
Check for bent/squeezed Fuel Lines
Check Fuel Pressure System for Leaks
Check Fuel Filter & Filter in Fuel Pump
Check Fuel Quantity supplied by the Fuel Pump
*Special Notes*
When found in 2.0l TFSI:
Check Fuel Pressure
Rest of World (RoW) check TPI 2014143, the Intake Camshaft might have a worn out Fuel Pump Cam.
North American Region (NAR) check TSB 2015153 (01-09-03 > 15-10-01 > 15-10-02), the Intake Camshaft might have a worn out Fuel Pump Cam.
North American Region (NAR) check TSB 2018183 (20-08-01) and verify the High Fuel Pressure Sensor (G247) Part Number


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## flipp (Mar 8, 2001)

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/18725/P2293/008851


have you checked your cam follower? how many miles are on the car? vw extended the warranty on the cam/follower/fuel pump to 10 years/120k.


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## ronokenneally (Nov 5, 2012)

flipp said:


> http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/18725/P2293/008851
> 
> 
> have you checked your cam follower? how many miles are on the car? vw extended the warranty on the cam/follower/fuel pump to 10 years/120k.


No I haven't checked it. Can I check that by just looking after removing the HPFP? The car is a 2006 with 130,000 KM on it. It is a Canadian car so I'd have to check if about the warranty.


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## ronokenneally (Nov 5, 2012)

It isn't covered. I just checked


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## flipp (Mar 8, 2001)

once you pull the fuel pump it's easy to tell if there's damage or not. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2jCzoQcDEkQ

that really sucks if you're not covered. especially at only 80k miles.


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## ronokenneally (Nov 5, 2012)

Ok I'll check that and get back to you.

Thanks


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## ronokenneally (Nov 5, 2012)

The HPFP Cam follower was worn not too badly. I cleared the codes and drove it. No check engine light came on but I scanned it anyway and found there was an P310B code. I presume I just need to reset the LPFP again??


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## flipp (Mar 8, 2001)

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/P310B/012555

there's a couple more things to check w/ that code (g410 sensor, vacuum leak,) *edit* removed the fuel filter since you've already done that a few times

at least it wasn't a bad cam follower & camshaft.


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## ronokenneally (Nov 5, 2012)

I didn't get a look at the camshaft but I don't think it is too much of an issue since the cam follower wasn't too bad. Regarding the other codes. I have look at and addressed a few of these.


Possible Symptoms
MIL On
NO
Reduced power
NO

Possible Causes
Faulty Fuel Pressure Sensor (G410)
REPLACED TWICE

Wiring Harness for Fuel Pressure Sensor (G410)
POSSIBLY

Low Fuel Pressure
Weak Lift Pump
REPLACED BUT THERE IS A WAY TO RESET IT ONCE DONE. I DID THIS BUT I WILL TRY IT AGAIN AND HAVE A LOOK AT THE PARAMETERS AT THE SAME TIME

Restriction in Fuel Filter or Fuel Lines
AS ABOVE BUT PREVIOUS READINGS SAY THIS IS NOT THE ISSUE

Mechanical issue with High Pressure Fuel Pump
POSSIBLY / NOT SURE HOW TO TELL....? I HAVE A SPARE ONE LYING AROUND.



Possible Solutions
Replace Fuel Pressure Sensor (G410)
DONE
Repair Damaged Wiring
POSSIBLY 
Remove and inspect High Pressure Fuel Pump
AGAIN NOT SURE HOW TO DO THIS BUT I DON'T THINK IT IS LIKELY AS THE CAM WASN'T TOO BAD


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## ronokenneally (Nov 5, 2012)

So I’m still having trouble with the car. The car seems to be driving fine for the most part except I have noticed that under WOT in the higher gears I kind of get a moment’s hesitation at about 3300 RPM or around the 3-4k RPM. If I clear the codes they don’t come back right away and they don’t come back at the first sign of being pushed at that 3300 RPM area. It will tend to happen a minute or two after some WOT driving. From the Technical Bulletin I found (http://www.goapr.com/images/support/tsb/20t_cam_wear.pdf ) regarding this it says that if the cam follower is worn to the point of being concaved ref Fig B. this best describes the cam follower I took out of my car. I didn’t get a look into the cam shaft.

Currently I’m getting the following codes;

P2187
P0507
P310B
P2293


I’m thinking the next thing for me to do is to take off the rocker cover and examine the camshaft if it is worn replace it. I’m thinking of taking off the intake manifold at the same time and inspecting/cleaning the valves of any carbon build up while I’m at it.

Does that sound like the best plan to move forward? Or does anyone have any better suggestions?

Thanks


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## ronokenneally (Nov 5, 2012)

Here are some pictures of the Cam follower that I took out. It is hard to get a picture that accurately shows how much it is concaved


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## ronokenneally (Nov 5, 2012)

Just to give an update. It looks like my Intake Camshaft is worn as well. I put in another cam follower and that has started to wear out as well.

*A new problem that I badly need help with*
I've actually caused another problem which I need help with. When I went to looked at the camshaft I thought I'd take a peak at the intake valves to look for carbon build up but I realized that I needed to be more prepared. By that point I had taken some things apart, fuel lines, wiring connections to various items. Now the car won't start. I have looked and checked everything and I just can't find what is wrong/unconnected. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what that it might be or what would be likely.

I scanned the car and looked at the items listed at the milage on the clock since I started the work I had two codes
P1531 Camshaft sensor
P0100 Mass airflow sensor

I cleared the codes and tried to start the car to see if any new codes came back. None did even though it was still not starting.

I tried a few more times and I got two different codes
P1355 Cylinder 1 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit
P1358 Cylinder 2 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit

So I'm thinking something along the lines of a connection to the coils...? Anyone got any suggestions?

Thanks in advance


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## ronokenneally (Nov 5, 2012)

BUMP

Any thoughts would be appreciated




ronokenneally said:


> Just to give an update. It looks like my Intake Camshaft is worn as well. I put in another cam follower and that has started to wear out as well.
> 
> *A new problem that I badly need help with*
> I've actually caused another problem which I need help with. When I went to looked at the camshaft I thought I'd take a peak at the intake valves to look for carbon build up but I realized that I needed to be more prepared. By that point I had taken some things apart, fuel lines, wiring connections to various items. Now the car won't start. I have looked and checked everything and I just can't find what is wrong/unconnected. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what that it might be or what would be likely.
> ...


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## JaxACR (Dec 6, 2007)

Re: ignition circuit codes... Check the connections at the coil packs. Are the harnesses clipped in fully? Any bent pins or loose wires? Honestly, I hate to tell you to throw more parts at it, but a new set of coil packs do wonders on this motor. They are a common failing part anyway and for about $80 you can replace all four with the latest, more reliable revision.


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## Mkv gti 5 (Mar 17, 2014)

The intake cam is worn out, easy way to see it is either pull the hpfp and roller back out and rotate the crank so the cams are moving. 
On the intake cam it has three lobes, you find the warn. No longer able to push the piston on the hpfp far enought to produce enough fuel. This will take car of the misfire codes and fuel codes. 
Also take the vacuum pump off while turn the crack with a friend you can see the lobe from the vacuum pump and see another angle of the lobe. Vac pump rides on intake cam also. 

Misfires are cause by low fuel pressure, if you have aces to scan tool. Check rail pressure on idle, probably be 35bar the when you attemp to drive rail pressure drop cause the worn lobe cannot push hpfp piston far enought to pressurize the rail enough when on throttle pressure would drop to maybe 5-8 bar
Takes maybe 45min to check it


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