# 2000 2.0L Turbo, Loss of power over 3000 RPMs



## AndyCouch (Jan 21, 2012)

*2000 1.8L Turbo, Loss of power over 3000 RPMs*

I have a 2000 New Beetle with the 1.8L Turbo engine that has started loosing power at about 3000 RPM. The power loss is very smooth and doesn't sputter. It's just as if the accelerator stops (or dramatically reduces) the acceleration rate at 3000 RPM. Acceleration is perfectly normal below 3000. 

No warning lights are on and the OBD isn't reporting any codes. Does anyone have any suggestions for what to check? 

I've read some reports that the MAF sensor can affect acceleration, but I don't know how to test it or if it could only cause problems above 3000 RPMs. 

Thanks!


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## Rockerchick (May 10, 2005)

2.0L with a turbo added? Or a 1.8t (20v turbo)? Manual or auto? How many miles on the car? 

If you want to do a quick, easy test of the MAF, just unplug it and see if the car drives better.


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## AndyCouch (Jan 21, 2012)

Rockerchick said:


> 2.0L with a turbo added? Or a 1.8t (20v turbo)? Manual or auto? How many miles on the car?
> 
> If you want to do a quick, easy test of the MAF, just unplug it and see if the car drives better.


 Sorry, my mistake. It's the GLX, so the 1.8L Turbo (title corrected). It's the 5-speed manual with about 87K miles on it. 

I'll try unplugging the MAF this evening and see if that has any effect on the problem. Thanks!


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

IMO the MAF gets blamed for way too many issues. It could be many things. Check for any vacuum leaks. The old rubber vacuum lines crack and break. Replace them with some quality silicone lines which will last much longer and are heat resistant. Check the hose coming off the Turbo. Sometime is can slip and cause problems. Check the connections to your N75 Valve and your Diverter Valve. How long ago were the Spark Plugs changed? Are they gapped properly? 
At times do you have trouble starting the car? Does it ever stall on you? Could be a faulty Crank Positioning Sensor. Make sure your coil connections are secure and the plastic connectors aren't damaged or cracked. I had 2 connectors on my 2000 GLX that were broken and one almost cracked in half when I tried to remove it. Replaced both housings and car ran a lot better. 
Check or just replace your Fuel Filter. It can become clogged or dirty and perhaps prevents proper flow. Check the vacuum connection to your Fuel Pressure regulator. Do you have a boost gauge? Make sure those lines aren't compromised. On your next Fill up put a can of Seafoam in your fuel tank prior to putting in the gas. It will clean the injectors and other build up in the fuel system. 
Good Luck and Please keep us posted on what actually was wrong with your car. A lot of people post when they have issues but then when they get it fixed never post back of what actually fixed the problem. It would help others in their time of need to know what to look for. 
Have a great day!


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

Did you get your car scanned and are there any codes? If you get this code: 
16727, P0343 it is the Camshaft positioning sensor.


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## AndyCouch (Jan 21, 2012)

IndyTTom said:


> Did you get your car scanned and are there any codes? If you get this code:
> 16727, P0343 it is the Camshaft positioning sensor.


 No codes come up on the OBD scanner. Also, I should clarify that the power loss isn't complete. The acceleration rate just starts to plateau at 3000 RPM. It will continue to accelerate beyond 3000 RPM, but much slower than it does below 3000 RPM.


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## AndyCouch (Jan 21, 2012)

IndyTTom said:


> IMO the MAF gets blamed for way too many issues. It could be many things. Check for any vacuum leaks. The old rubber vacuum lines crack and break. Replace them with some quality silicone lines which will last much longer and are heat resistant. Check the hose coming off the Turbo. Sometime is can slip and cause problems. Check the connections to your N75 Valve and your Diverter Valve.


 It wasn't the MAF. I did discover that the hose going from the air filter housing to the engine was loose and fixed that, but that didn't make any difference. I will try to check for vacuum leaks. I'm not a mechanic, just someone that's generally handy with tools and doesn't like to get screwed over by greedy auto shops, so I'll have to look up where my N75 and diverter values are. 



IndyTTom said:


> How long ago were the Spark Plugs changed? Are they gapped properly?


 I don't think they were changed that long ago, but I'll check them and see how they look and check their gap as well. 



IndyTTom said:


> At times do you have trouble starting the car? Does it ever stall on you? Could be a faulty Crank Positioning Sensor. Make sure your coil connections are secure and the plastic connectors aren't damaged or cracked. I had 2 connectors on my 2000 GLX that were broken and one almost cracked in half when I tried to remove it. Replaced both housings and car ran a lot better.


 No problems starting the car and no stalls. No problems at all until you hit that 3000 RPM threshold. 



IndyTTom said:


> Check or just replace your Fuel Filter. It can become clogged or dirty and perhaps prevents proper flow. Check the vacuum connection to your Fuel Pressure regulator. Do you have a boost gauge? Make sure those lines aren't compromised.


 I don't think I have a boost gauge and the fuel filter was replaced not too long ago, but I'll have the pressure checked anyway. 



IndyTTom said:


> On your next Fill up put a can of Seafoam in your fuel tank prior to putting in the gas. It will clean the injectors and other build up in the fuel system.


 I just filled the tank, but I'll do that on the next fill-up if I'm still having problems. 



IndyTTom said:


> Good Luck and Please keep us posted on what actually was wrong with your car. A lot of people post when they have issues but then when they get it fixed never post back of what actually fixed the problem. It would help others in their time of need to know what to look for.
> Have a great day!


 Thanks! I'll most definitely follow-up with whatever I find.


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