# Depo Racing Boost Gauge install and review



## toy4two2 (Feb 6, 2012)

Just finished installing my boost guage to find out why my APR tune is not behaving like it used to. 

I selected the Depo Racing gauge mainly because I wanted something that matches the inside of the TT and wasn't too expensive. 

The DEPO is white dial with red needle during the day, and red-ish at night so it matches pretty well. Installation was straight forward. I tee'd the remote pressure sender to the Fuel Pressure Regulator boost line. I tossed the clear plastic tubing that came with the kit and used some black rubber windshield washer tubing for a stealth look. 

Zip tied the sender to an open bracket hole on the firewall near the black rubber grommet going into the cabin. 

Popped out the grommed, cut an X in it, then send the wiring through. Plugged into the sending unit. Then On the other side ran it under the dash, zip tied it cleanly, then up between the fuse panel and rubber door trip, surprisingly lots of space to run hidden wires there, and the fuse panel still snaps in place perfectly. 

The power wiring has 4 wires, postive, ground, switched power, and optional night mode (RED Dial). I used the nice power strip that has everything you need under the dash, labeled 75X for switched power, 30A for constant power, the stock audi ground wires (BROWN) all terminate under there too above the power strip. The only tricky one was the night mode (Red Dial) for that I used a no strip splice tap to the headlight switch, on my 2002 it was I think a grey wire with black stripe for one of the parking lights. 

Buttoned it all up and its pretty sweet :laugh: I wanted a digital number to go with the dial because I can't read those tiny dashes on an analog gauge at speed. However, saying that, I think I'll swap out my guage for the DEPO model that is exactly the same but without the digital guage as the Blue LED is BRIGHT and I find it distracting since it doesn't match the interior. I paid $80 on Ebay and the one I will swap to is only $65, PM me if you want the $80 one I'll sell it for $70 shipped. All the instructions and box have Japaneese writing on them, however there is a made in Taiwan sticker on it so if it breaks I'll post up here. So far so good. 

 Without furthe ado, here are the pics. 

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/18/20120923190148.jpg/


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Good job on getting a vacuum/boost gauge. It's one of the most valuable tool you can have for a turbo car. :thumbup: 

Word of advise, it's never wise to use the FPR or DV signal on your gauge. Something less critical like the booster line (pre check valve), the port on top of the TB, or ideally an unused port. Diagnostics of fuel pressure or DV issues gets real complicated when they are sharing pressure signals.


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Good job on getting a vacuum/boost gauge. It's one of the most valuable tool you can have for a turbo car. :thumbup:
> 
> Word of advise, it's never wise to use the FPR or DV signal on your gauge. Something less critical like the booster line (pre check valve), the port on top of the TB, or ideally an unused port. Diagnostics of fuel pressure or DV issues gets real complicated when they are sharing pressure signals.


 Max, 

my question should probably be in the dumb-ass question thread, but do you have any pics of tapping into these other ports/locations? Don't wanna share pressure signals...wouldn't be prudent. 

b.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

TTC2k5 said:


> Max,
> 
> my question should probably be in the dumb-ass question thread, but do you have any pics of tapping into these other ports/locations? Don't wanna share pressure signals...wouldn't be prudent.
> 
> b.


 Bob, will snap some for you in a few!


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

thanks much! 

bob


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

TTC2k5 said:


> thanks much!
> 
> bob


 This is the end of the manifold plenum, there should only be a single big port there (mine has 3 because I relocated the ports from under the plenum to make them easily accessible). It is the vacuum booster signal, and you can "T" into it for your gauge as long as it is before the first check valve (pass the check valve your gauge will only read vacuum) 













This is the port on top of the throttle body, I can't remember what it was used for (probably N249 that got deleted), but that is what I use in my car. So, I have dedicated lines for fuel pressure regulator and DV, and one line going to my gauge. (I don't use the booster signal for my gauge because I have that line modified with a merge from the TIP to increase vacuum brake assist, even when the manifold is seeing positive pressure AKA boost)


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Awesome max. 

When I was replacing OEM hose with silicone, at the same time as my DV relo, I found two connected to the manifold(left side, bottom). Can I just tap into one of those? 

As I recall, the left hose in this image goes to one of those nipples. Can I use it?. 










bob


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## Arnolds64 (Nov 13, 2009)

*PICS Please.*

Marcus, Now that you ripped me for not having gauge on the Spring Mod I would also like a shot of some good places to do this.


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## Arnolds64 (Nov 13, 2009)

*Two Hoses*

TT2k5 - I think these or one of the them I have seen in other threads that people splice into. The ones that Maxarcus says are to large for my line size but those you point out will work. Waiting on Maxarcus Aurelius.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Guys, the lines I pointed are indeed larger than typical mechanical gauge input. Most mechanical gauge need small 1mm synflex lines to work properly with limited oscillation. So, regardless of what vacuum signal is used there is going to be a reducing coupler at some point. Since you guys are using a "T", get one that has the large ID on two ends and a reduced ID for the gauge signal. The TB nipple is still the best one IMO, based on its location. 

On a side note, a boost pill or even a small lawn mower inline filter does a great job at dampening oscillation and noise to mechanical gauges (The really good ones have integrated boost pills) :beer:


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## Arnolds64 (Nov 13, 2009)

*Link*

Here is a link I found about the two lines TT2K5 is talking about. Should be pretty close to the one the two on the other end from the TB you show. - http://public.fotki.com/thorenpc/car_stuff/ttcoupe/boost_gauge_installation/100_0103.html 

Do you have a pic of the reducers you are talking about? The line that I have on my TB is rubber and then becomes a hard line or metal at about 6 inches out from the TB. What does this line go too?


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## Arnolds64 (Nov 13, 2009)

*Bigger Nipples WOW!*



Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Guys, the lines I pointed are indeed larger than typical mechanical gauge input. Most mechanical gauge need small 1mm synflex lines to work properly with limited oscillation. So, regardless of what vacuum signal is used there is going to be a reducing coupler at some point. Since you guys are using a "T", get one that has the large ID on two ends and a reduced ID for the gauge signal. The TB nipple is still the best one IMO, based on its location.
> 
> On a side note, a boost pill or even a small lawn mower inline filter does a great job at dampening oscillation and noise to mechanical gauges (The really good ones have integrated boost pills) :beer:


 Going with the splice at the TB and the Bigger Nipples!! I like bigger nipples!!


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