# Tow hitch wiring harness???



## is95a (Jul 6, 2017)

Hi, new SEL Premium owner here and was wondering if anyone could tell me where the wiring harness for the tow hitch is? I have had numerous vehicles with tow hitches and the plugs for the harness are always right next to the hitch, but for the life of me I cant see one on the Atlas! Wondering if VW forgot to install?


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## dieselpwr (Mar 7, 2004)

There's a small rectangular plate on the left of the hitch. You need to remove the small plate and replace it with a plug. VW really should've included it, but the new Q7 is the same.

This is the piece you need. I suggest buying it on Amazon for a lot less. 
https://parts.vw.com/p/Volkswagen_2...in-Connector---Black/51413092/7L0055305N.html


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

dieselpwr said:


> There's a small rectangular plate on the left of the hitch. You need to remove the small plate and replace it with a plug. VW really should've included it, but the new Q7 is the same.


Yeah that was a surprise to me too, but I guess they do it to give you the option of adapting the truck to American or European style RV connectors or direct to 4-flat if you don't need the RV wiring.

If you want to go third-party, get the Pollak 11-893 adapter from either ETrailer or Amazon, it converts the Atlas hitch wiring to RV-style 7-blade with a weather cover.

*The plate you need to remove, with Torx screws:*










*The hitch pre-wiring socket that you connect to the VW or Pollak adapter:*










*Atlas EBC prewiring, if you want an electric brake controller, you'll find it under the carpet at the base of the driver's footrest:*










*In the factory wiring diagrams, that connector is labeled "T4at":*










*And the aftermarket brake controller itself is referred to as G508 "Electric trailer brake position sensor":*










*Wiring connections to be made:*


*Connection**Atlas Prewire**Tekonsha Pigtail**Power*T4at/2 Red/WhiteBlack*Ground*T4at/1 BrownWhite*Brake Light Signal Input*T4at/3 Black/RedRed*Trailer Socket Signal Output*T4at/4 Lilac/BlueBlue


*Tekonsha Prodigy P3 EBC set up and working great:*


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## dieselpwr (Mar 7, 2004)

What are you towing jyoung?


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

dieselpwr said:


> What are you towing jyoung?


A few things. We own a Jayco pop-up camper, weighing in at about 2000 pounds, which comes out a few times a year. We haven't gone on a long trip with it hooked to the Atlas yet, but I took it up and down a couple highway exits to test out my EBC wiring, and the Atlas drives great with it, almost like it isn't there. I've also pulled a U-Haul 5x8 from St. Louis to Cincinnati, similar experience.

Also, I occasionally pull one of my Troop's trailers to/from nearby camps, but that's pretty marginal for a light SUV and I don't go cross-country or anything. I'm coming from having a GMC Acadia, which is of a similar class and capacity. I did a test pull of our heavier of two trailers to see if I could take it to summer camp a couple weeks ago, and ended up declining, mainly because it's loaded way too tongue-heavy. I didn't have time to reload it all properly and the extra gear and Scouts would have made it an unsafe trip. But in pulling it on a brief mixed highway drive, power and acceleration were surprisingly quite decent for what it is, the eight-speed does a great job, and the EBC integration makes the combination handle and stop just fine.


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## is95a (Jul 6, 2017)

Thanks for everyones quick responses! Dieslpwr, I assume you mean this one?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B6NQHW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
If so, it is definitely cheaper...thanks:laugh:


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

is95a said:


> Thanks for everyones quick responses! Dieslpwr, I assume you mean this one?
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B6NQHW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
> If so, it is definitely cheaper...thanks:laugh:


That is the very same one I ordered and installed. Works great.

Jason


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## shotofjoe (Jul 9, 2017)

jyoung8607 said:


> Yeah that was a surprise to me too, but I guess they do it to give you the option of adapting the truck to American or European style RV connectors or direct to 4-flat if you don't need the RV wiring.
> 
> If you want to go third-party, get the Pollak 11-893 adapter from either ETrailer or Amazon, it converts the Atlas hitch wiring to RV-style 7-blade with a weather cover.
> 
> ...


Hi,

How did you take off the foot rest? Was it easy to put back together? 

Thanks


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## Gordo2.0 (Aug 29, 2006)

What adapter harness did you use with your brake controller?


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

shotofjoe said:


> How did you take off the foot rest? Was it easy to put back together?


The door sill cover plate and the lower A-pillar cover plate (the part behind the hood release lever) have to come off. The hood release lever has to come off first, there's a black plastic retaining clip that you fish out from behind the pivot point and the lever comes right off. That will expose one plastic expansion fastener in that A-pillar cover plate that has to be removed, and from there, you just pry off the sill plate and then the A-pillar plate. If you download the repair manual from erWin, it has the directions. Or, if there's interest, I could do it again real quick and take pics. It's not hard.

Jason


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

Gordo2.0 said:


> What adapter harness did you use with your brake controller?


I directly spliced in using the custom-wiring harness that comes with the Tekonsha brake controller. I had it left-over from my GMC Acadia install where I was using a prefab GMC harness, before I traded that on the Atlas. I wasn't really excited about direct splicing it to the car, but Tekonsha didn't seem to have one for the application (nor for a Q7 or Touareg which I hoped might be compatible). It's not like I was hacking up random wiring all over the car, all I did was lop off the car-side connector and direct crimp the Tekonsha harness to the four factory-designed tow controller wires, and wrap it up in some fabric harness tape to make it clean and correct.

If someone wants to talk to Tekonsha about getting a quick connect harness made, I have the wiring diagram reference pages here, the right colors and pin numbers, and I even saved the connector head I lopped off. Find a contact there and I can get them the necessary info.

Jason


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## shotofjoe (Jul 9, 2017)

jyoung8607 said:


> shotofjoe said:
> 
> 
> > How did you take off the foot rest? Was it easy to put back together?
> ...



Hi Jason,

So I did this exact setup. A day later check engine comes on while I'm on vacation 300 miles away. They towed it to the nearest dealer which is 240 miles away from my home. Now I'm back home and my car is ready for pickup, VW refuse to tow the car back because they are blaming it on that brake controller. I explained that the vehicle is already pre-wired for this. Am I correct? Any insight?


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

shotofjoe said:


> So I did this exact setup. A day later check engine comes on while I'm on vacation 300 miles away. They towed it to the nearest dealer which is 240 miles away from my home. Now I'm back home and my car is ready for pickup, VW refuse to tow the car back because they are blaming it on that brake controller. I explained that the vehicle is already pre-wired for this. Am I correct? Any insight?


It's for-sure pre-wired, that's what the connector is there for. It's documented in the Atlas SSP (dealer training), see page 10. In the wiring diagrams that connector is referred to as *T4at* and the controller would be *G508* "Electric trailer brake position sensor". 

As for affecting the engine, I can't conceive of what even a broken or shorted brake controller could do to produce an engine MIL. There's four wires in that harness: power, ground, brake sense line, and trailer brake output. Power comes from an isolated circuit, ground will be to the closest point and unlikely to be the same used by any engine stuff, the brake sense line comes from the trailer recognition control module in the back of the truck, and the trailer brake line has nothing to do with anything.

Questions:

1) What did the dealer allegedly find wrong with your Atlas? If there was an engine MIL, there should be diagnostic codes. Ask for the report from ODIS (their diagnostic tool).

2) What did the dealer allegedly do about it?

3) Where the hell are you that you're 240 miles from a VW dealer?

Jason


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## shotofjoe (Jul 9, 2017)

jyoung8607 said:


> shotofjoe said:
> 
> 
> > So I did this exact setup. A day later check engine comes on while I'm on vacation 300 miles away. They towed it to the nearest dealer which is 240 miles away from my home. Now I'm back home and my car is ready for pickup, VW refuse to tow the car back because they are blaming it on that brake controller. I explained that the vehicle is already pre-wired for this. Am I correct? Any insight?
> ...


I towed my TT to Yosemite to spend the weekend with my family. Ended up dealing with this. I'll check with the dealer about the codes and I'll post it here.


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## Bluemeansgo (May 14, 2017)

I discovered two days before I was going on vacation... called the dealer and they were surprised and say VW had "fixed" that problem a few years ago on the Touareg and will be installing them on every Atlas leaving the place... as people get REALLY frustrated when they go to tow and suddenly can't. 

As a thank-you for bringing it to their attention, he gave the part for free... even installed it.


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## Drive by (Mar 13, 2017)

Bluemeansgo said:


> I discovered two days before I was going on vacation... called the dealer and they were surprised and say VW had "fixed" that problem a few years ago on the Touareg and will be installing them on every Atlas leaving the place... as people get REALLY frustrated when they go to tow and suddenly can't.
> 
> As a thank-you for bringing it to their attention, he gave the part for free... even installed it.


Smart Dealer. He solved future problems and made a customer happy for very little cost. Definitely stay with them. Others aren't so customer solution focused!


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## 2018_Atlas_SEL (Jun 7, 2017)

Kinda hokey that they don't provide that $4 part on a $40K vehicle. Thanks for the links. I hadn't gotten around to pulling that cover off but was thinking about pulling the boat to the lake. Guess that'll have to wait until I get the adapter.


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## Bluemeansgo (May 14, 2017)

Drive by said:


> Smart Dealer. He solved future problems and made a customer happy for very little cost. Definitely stay with them. Others aren't so customer solution focused!


Agreed. It's one of the few independently owned dealerships around here. Clarkdale VW in Vancouver, BC in case anyone is wondering.


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## Drive by (Mar 13, 2017)

Bluemeansgo said:


> Agreed. It's one of the few independently owned dealerships around here. Clarkdale VW in Vancouver, BC in case anyone is wondering.


Good to know! I looked at 3 Atlas at OpenRoad yesterday and none of them had any wiring either. Would certainly be something on my must do list by the dealer before I come home with one. I don't even have any real plans to two but it seams so cheap to not do this as a standard thing. I get that 99% of tow hitches are really bike rack adapters but still.:banghead:


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## giantsnation (Dec 15, 2014)

This is great information! My wife and I are thinking about getting an Atlas (I'll keep my Passat and she'll trade in the minivan) - but I wanted to know what the tongue weight capacity was for this SUV. 5K LBS towing capacity is more than sufficient for our Jayco trailer but I get nervous about the tongue weight. On our minivan, I had to add a rear airbag spring helper but that car is obviously a lower to begin with.


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## dieselpwr (Mar 7, 2004)

giantsnation said:


> This is great information! My wife and I are thinking about getting an Atlas (I'll keep my Passat and she'll trade in the minivan) - but I wanted to know what the tongue weight capacity was for this SUV. 5K LBS towing capacity is more than sufficient for our Jayco trailer but I get nervous about the tongue weight. On our minivan, I had to add a rear airbag spring helper but that car is obviously a lower to begin with.


You should be fine as long as the tongue weight is not more than 500lbs. https://youtu.be/XNmLy9X712k


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## giantsnation (Dec 15, 2014)

dieselpwr said:


> You should be fine as long as the tongue weight is not more than 500lbs. https://youtu.be/XNmLy9X712k


Awesome, I'm good for 200-300lbs depending if I fill it with fresh water. We look at the Launch Edition which had the towing harness and hitch standard so now that I know this, I just need to convince the boss.


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## dieselpwr (Mar 7, 2004)

giantsnation said:


> Awesome, I'm good for 200-300lbs depending if I fill it with fresh water. We look at the Launch Edition which had the towing harness and hitch standard so now that I know this, I just need to convince the boss.


Only the SEL has the tow package standard with the 5k rating. All others at 2k rating


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## giantsnation (Dec 15, 2014)

dieselpwr said:


> Only the SEL has the tow package standard with the 5k rating. All others at 2k rating


Interesting, dealer told me the Launch Edition was 5K.


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## Drive by (Mar 13, 2017)

giantsnation said:


> Interesting, dealer told me the Launch Edition was 5K.



i would sure verify. The full rating of 5K includes tranny and potentially other unannounced bracing. Seems a lot for just an extra cooler/fan for the limit to be so different.


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## dieselpwr (Mar 7, 2004)

giantsnation said:


> Interesting, dealer told me the Launch Edition was 5K.


No surprise, a clueless dealer.


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## giantsnation (Dec 15, 2014)

Well where are you guys seeing otherwise? I don't see anything mentioning the 2K rating. *All * the dealer websites actually list these as 5K capacity. Here is an example: https://www.liavw.com/new-Enfield-2018-Volkswagen-Atlas-Launch+Edition+4Motion-1V2HR2CA2JC502015. As you'll see under Vehicle Highlights - 5000 LB Towing Capacity.


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## giantsnation (Dec 15, 2014)

I found where VW hides this but still no details on why such a difference - https://media.vw.com/release/1357/.


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## vwbugstuff (Mar 27, 2004)

giantsnation said:


> Well where are you guys seeing otherwise? I don't see anything mentioning the 2K rating. *All * the dealer websites actually list these as 5K capacity. Here is an example: https://www.liavw.com/new-Enfield-2018-Volkswagen-Atlas-Launch+Edition+4Motion-1V2HR2CA2JC502015. As you'll see under Vehicle Highlights - 5000 LB Towing Capacity.



"Atlas models equipped with the VR6 engine and a factory installed trailer hitch (SEL and SEL Premium) offer a towing capacity of 5,000 lbs., while all other models require trailer hitch installation, and then allow for a maximum towing capacity of 2,000 lbs."


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## Marty1972 (Aug 2, 2017)

Just picking up the new Atlas. Can I use torsion bars with it?


Pick up the Atlas yesterday night, it definitively says no weight distribution system in the manual.


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

Marty1972 said:


> Just picking up the new Atlas. Can I use torsion bars with it?


If you mean a weight distribution hitch, I'm afraid the owners manual specifically prohibits it in very strong terms. I was actually looking into one and ended up having to do without.


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## vwbugstuff (Mar 27, 2004)

jyoung8607 said:


> If you mean a weight distribution hitch, I'm afraid the owners manual specifically prohibits it in very strong terms.



Wait, what?

Can you post a pic of that page? For the SEL's with the factory hitch setup, that doesn't make any sense.


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

vwbugstuff said:


> Wait, what?
> 
> Can you post a pic of that page? For the SEL's with the factory hitch setup, that doesn't make any sense.


I'm away from my Atlas until tomorrow evening, but I can scan and post the relevant pages then. I can't seem to find an online copy. In the meantime, though, I can assure you the statement in the manual is absolute and unambiguous. The Atlas hitch and body design just isn't designed to deal with the forces imposed by a WDH rig.

Anything you might need a WDH for is at-best marginal for an Atlas to pull anyway, so I don't think it should be a huge deal-breaker for most people. Touaregs have the same limitation. You can find the same statements in its owners manual and conversation about it with a little directed Googling. 

Jason


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## vwbugstuff (Mar 27, 2004)

jyoung8607 said:


> I'm away from my Atlas until tomorrow evening, but I can scan and post the relevant pages then. I can't seem to find an online copy. In the meantime, though, I can assure you the statement in the manual is absolute and unambiguous. The Atlas hitch and body design just isn't designed to deal with the forces imposed by a WDH rig.
> 
> Anything you might need a WDH for is at-best marginal for an Atlas to pull anyway, so I don't think it should be a huge deal-breaker for most people. Touaregs have the same limitation. You can find the same statements in its owners manual and conversation about it with a little directed Googling.
> 
> Jason


I've got a 3500 lb. camper with a WDH hitch with sway bars. With a 5000 lb. towing capacity the Atlas should have no problem with that (at least in theory).


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

vwbugstuff said:


> I've got a 3500 lb. camper with a WDH hitch with sway bars. With a 5000 lb. towing capacity the Atlas should have no problem with that (at least in theory).


Using the rule-of-thumb that 10 to 15 percent of the trailer weight should be on the tongue, for best trailering performance and stability, that puts your trailer between 350 and 525 pounds on a 500 pound rated tongue without distribution. So you're perfectly fine without a WDH, unless it's loaded excessively front-heavy, in which case, don't do that. 

Max vehicle payload, max tongue dead weight, max tongue WD weight, and max trailer weight are always given as separate numbers for good and valid reasons. WD is different matter entirely from trailer and tongue weight, it does place a much different and more severe set of forces on the tow vehicle and the vehicle manufacturer most definitely has to design for it.

All that said, I am not the trailer police. If you want to pull outside of spec using your own best care and judgment, that is your business. I will be outside spec myself from time to time: the manual also says I can't pull with larger than a 2" ball, and the Troop trailers I pull both require a 2 5/16" ball. I have no idea why VW prohibits that, but I do so anyway on my own responsibility. 

Jason


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## giantsnation (Dec 15, 2014)

jyoung8607 said:


> Using the rule-of-thumb that 10 to 15 percent of the trailer weight should be on the tongue, for best trailering performance and stability, that puts your trailer between 350 and 525 pounds on a 500 pound rated tongue without distribution. So you're perfectly fine without a WDH, unless it's loaded excessively front-heavy, in which case, don't do that.
> 
> Max vehicle payload, max tongue dead weight, max tongue WD weight, and max trailer weight are always given as separate numbers for good and valid reasons. WD is different matter entirely from trailer and tongue weight, it does place a much different and more severe set of forces on the tow vehicle and the vehicle manufacturer most definitely has to design for it.
> 
> ...


Well said and I wanted to add that in theory most people try to remain within 75% of the max tow capacity. This would be 3750 lbs so your trailer or whatever your towing will be fine. Just don't forget at that weight, it'll be required to have trailer brakes and a brake controller. :beer:


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## Drive by (Mar 13, 2017)

Also don't forget the 1275# payload. that's for you, your family, anything not bolted from the factory AND the 10-15% of the tongue weight of that trailer. When you add that up there really isn't alot these things can tow.

I really do believe this class of vehicle (all of 'em not just Atlas) aren't intended for more than the occasional tow at best. Not every weekend or for serious hills etc.


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## giantsnation (Dec 15, 2014)

Drive by said:


> Also don't forget the 1275# payload. that's for you, your family, anything not bolted from the factory AND the 10-15% of the tongue weight of that trailer. When you add that up there really isn't alot these things can tow.
> 
> I really do believe this class of vehicle (all of 'em not just Atlas) aren't intended for more than the occasional tow at best. Not every weekend or for serious hills etc.


I'm going to have to disagree with you on that. They don't put oil coolers on these for the "occasional tow". I would have no problem towing a small popup camper at ~2500-3000LBS every weekend with the Atlas or Highlander (only 2 I would trust).


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## jkopelc (Mar 1, 2017)

Not sure if this Atlas towing video will help - but the link is below:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XNmLy9X712k


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

jkopelc said:


> Not sure if this Atlas towing video will help - but the link is below:


Heh, I saw that a few days ago. Official VW dealer advertising with a WD hitch installed and specifically mentioned even though it's not allowed by the owner's manual. :facepalm: I'll grant that he didn't actually install the bars to make it effective, but still. And that guy's definition of "level" is different from mine. And no brake controller shown or mentioned. And just a short slow-speed trip around the block calling it good.

I like the way the Atlas pulls in my experience so far, but that dude is way overselling it. I almost emailed the dealer about it just as a friendly heads-up, "hey you REALLY shouldn't be advertising this", but decided I didn't care enough.


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## giantsnation (Dec 15, 2014)

jyoung8607 said:


> Heh, I saw that a few days ago. Official VW dealer advertising with a WD hitch installed and specifically mentioned even though it's not allowed by the owner's manual. :facepalm: I'll grant that he didn't actually install the bars to make it effective, but still. And that guy's definition of "level" is different from mine. And no brake controller shown or mentioned. And just a short slow-speed trip around the block calling it good.
> 
> I like the way the Atlas pulls in my experience so far, but that dude is way overselling it. I almost emailed the dealer about it just as a friendly heads-up, "hey you REALLY shouldn't be advertising this", but decided I didn't care enough.


WAIT - I have never in my life heard of a manufacturer being against a WD hitch! That's crazy. They are designed for taking weight off the tongue (as well as helping with sway).


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

giantsnation said:


> WAIT - I have never in my life heard of a manufacturer being against a WD hitch! That's crazy. They are designed for taking weight off the tongue (as well as helping with sway).


A WD hitch doesn't magic-away the weight, it applies a torque (potentially a LOT of torque) that presses down the front and lifts the rear of the tow vehicle, giving the combination a better balance. VW are not the only manufacturer to recommend against them, and every WD hitch manufacturer will tell you to check the tow vehicle owner's manual before installing.

As I said earlier, I'm not the trailer police, but I'll scan and post the manual pages when I get home late tonight, and you all can make of it what you will.


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## giantsnation (Dec 15, 2014)

jyoung8607 said:


> A WD hitch doesn't magic-away the weight, it applies a torque (potentially a LOT of torque) that presses down the front and lifts the rear of the tow vehicle, giving the combination a better balance. VW are not the only manufacturer to recommend against them, and every WD hitch manufacturer will tell you to check the tow vehicle owner's manual before installing.
> 
> As I said earlier, I'm not the trailer police, but I'll scan and post the manual pages when I get home late tonight, and you all can make of it what you will.


Yes, please do. To me it won't necessarily matter as I never use a WD hitch but still surprising. I guess it really depends on how VW mounted the hitch receiver.


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## Drive by (Mar 13, 2017)

giantsnation said:


> I'm going to have to disagree with you on that. They don't put oil coolers on these for the "occasional tow". I would have no problem towing a small popup camper at ~2500-3000LBS every weekend with the Atlas or Highlander (only 2 I would trust).


You are stating my thoughts better than I. Occasional was bad choice of word. What I really meant was that the 5K limit wasn't too likely to be able to be used in real life due to people usually stuffing the inside full too. I once weighed a weekend worthy of coolers and people in my Durango (1400# payload). Payload was all used up, never mind any tongue weight. An no, my friends weren't extra fat 

It's really the low payload that causes me the concern in staying under the manufacture weights. That and the passenger tires with soft sidewalls. 

In the real world a 5000# tt will overload the payload limits in more than a few cases. However a 5K boat won't because those tongue weights tend to be close to 10%. IMHO of course.


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

Okay, here you go on the towing info from the owner's manual:

http://ccxtips.net/~jyoung/vwvortex/atlas-towing-info.pdf

Sorry for the potato quality, my scanner doesn't seem to handle bound books very well. There's lots of good info in there, including precise specs on factory towing package vs. non-factory retrofit capacities. Pages 292, 293, and 297 mention the prohibition on weight-distributing hitches.


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## ra6hc1 (Aug 3, 2017)

*Atlas SE/tech trailer wiring harness*

Does anyone know if the SE/Tech package has a trailer wiring harness in the rear anywhere? I installed a new curtis hitch and cant seem to find a wiring harness. In the "equipment" section on VW website it just says "Trailer hitch preperation". I assumed that meant it had a pre-wired harness.


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## vwbugstuff (Mar 27, 2004)

jyoung8607 said:


> Okay, here you go on the towing info from the owner's manual:
> 
> http://ccxtips.net/~jyoung/vwvortex/atlas-towing-info.pdf
> 
> Sorry for the potato quality, my scanner doesn't seem to handle bound books very well. There's lots of good info in there, including precise specs on factory towing package vs. non-factory retrofit capacities. Pages 292, 293, and 297 mention the prohibition on weight-distributing hitches.



Thank you for that.

After reading that and numerous pages over at ClubTouareg.com, since I already have the WD hitch with sway control, when my Atlas arrives, I'll try it with WD settings at zero and see what happens. Then it will be a trip to the CAT Scale to see what the actual weight distribution and tongue weight are.


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## giantsnation (Dec 15, 2014)

jyoung8607 said:


> Okay, here you go on the towing info from the owner's manual:
> 
> http://ccxtips.net/~jyoung/vwvortex/atlas-towing-info.pdf
> 
> Sorry for the potato quality, my scanner doesn't seem to handle bound books very well. There's lots of good info in there, including precise specs on factory towing package vs. non-factory retrofit capacities. Pages 292, 293, and 297 mention the prohibition on weight-distributing hitches.


Great, thank you. I had to laugh at "Never drive faster than 50 mph ". :laugh:


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## Atlasowner2018 (Jul 28, 2017)

*wiring harness for SE with Tech package*

I ordered my wiring harness ($65.00) and hitch ($138.00) from e-trailer with help from local hitch store. They will install hitch wiring harness or $75.00. I put the hitch on in 15 mins. I am only towing a snowmobile trailer, 1,800 lbs max. I was told the AWD with V6 will handle this configuration and not need any hardware upgrades or enhancements.


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## sandmbmxer631 (Apr 20, 2005)

jyoung8607 said:


> Okay, here you go on the towing info from the owner's manual:
> 
> http://ccxtips.net/~jyoung/vwvortex/atlas-towing-info.pdf
> 
> Sorry for the potato quality, my scanner doesn't seem to handle bound books very well. There's lots of good info in there, including precise specs on factory towing package vs. non-factory retrofit capacities. Pages 292, 293, and 297 mention the prohibition on weight-distributing hitches.


Hi all. Haven't posted on the vortex in a long while but since we just got my wife an SE 4-Motion I have a quick question.

Does anyone know if the SE comes pre-provisioned for the trailer wiring adapter mentions above in the thread.
I know that the rear bumper does not pop open to show the plate mentioned above but I figure/hope that there might be the wiring tucked up behind the bumper somewhere that I can route to under the vehicle as I just installed a Curt hitch on our truck.


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

In response to a few PM requests, I've edited my original EBC information post (earlier in this same thread) to include wiring diagram screenshots, with specific wire-to-wire mappings for the generic Tekonsha pigtail. I guess I should have done that originally, just now got around to it. Here's the table alone, just for clarity:


*Connection**Atlas Prewire**Tekonsha Pigtail**Power*T4at/2 Red/WhiteBlack*Ground*T4at/1 BrownWhite*Brake Light Signal Input*T4at/3 Black/RedRed*Trailer Socket Signal Output*T4at/4 Lilac/BlueBlue


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## bocephus666 (Oct 10, 2017)

*Questions about the install*

Thanks for the post! Huge help! Really appreciate your willingness to share!

Some questions...

Did the brake controller come with a pig tail or is that sold separately?

Do you have any tips for removing the drivers foot rest and accessing the Atlas brake wire?

Did you solder the wires or just use screw caps? 

Once the wiring was connected, did the brake controller work or were there others steps taken? 

How were you able to test the brake controller? Jack up the trailer, spin the tire and see if it stops?

Was there a need for it to be installed perfectly level? I was reading that some brake controllers have a gyroscope inside which requires a level mount.


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

bocephus666 said:


> Did the brake controller come with a pig tail or is that sold separately?


My Tekonsha Prodigy P3 came with a generic pigtail, and I ass-u-me the other Tekonshas do as well. Tekonsha's documentation says all their EBCs use the same wiring colors. They offer plug-and-play harnesses for separate purchase, which I used in the past with my GMC Acadia. They don't offer a prefab harness for the Atlas, that I know of, so I used the generic pigtail.



bocephus666 said:


> Do you have any tips for removing the drivers foot rest and accessing the Atlas brake wire?


 I can tell you that you have to remove the door sill trim piece (the one flat along the floor next to the seat) just by prying upward carefully, there's several metal expansion clips that just press in or pry out. Then you remove the hood latch release lever by fishing a plastic retaining clip out from the back side of the lever, you'll need a dental pick/hook or something. Then there's one plastic press-in fastener in the surface of that lower trim piece you pop out, then you take that trim piece itself off. The EBC prewiring harness will be sitting there on the floor underneath.

The retaining clip for the hood latch release is one of those things where a picture is worth a thousand words, but I'm away from my Atlas at the moment. I will try to take pictures of the method in a few days.



bocephus666 said:


> Did you solder the wires or just use screw caps?


I used crimp connectors. Neither soldering nor screw caps are recommended in an automotive application, as they aren't tolerant of flex and vibration.



bocephus666 said:


> Once the wiring was connected, did the brake controller work or were there others steps taken? How were you able to test the brake controller? Jack up the trailer, spin the tire and see if it stops?


Aside from adding that adapter to the trailer socket, it just works. There's no need to lift the trailer to test. The Prodigy P3 sees if there's a properly wired trailer connected and becomes active; it won't do this for a 4-pin trailer without brakes. When using the manual actuation/test knob on the EBC, your trailer brakes alone should be strong enough to perceptibly slow or stop your tow vehicle. Try it at 15-20mph.



bocephus666 said:


> Was there a need for it to be installed perfectly level? I was reading that some brake controllers have a gyroscope inside which requires a level mount.


Consult the manual for your particular EBC. For example, the Prodigy P3 will work in any pitch orientation, but must be aligned with the direction of travel in yaw and roll.

Jason


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## knedrgr (Jun 6, 2011)

Atlasowner2018 said:


> I ordered my wiring harness ($65.00) and hitch ($138.00) from e-trailer with help from local hitch store. They will install hitch wiring harness or $75.00. I put the hitch on in 15 mins. I am only towing a snowmobile trailer, 1,800 lbs max. I was told the AWD with V6 will handle this configuration and not need any hardware upgrades or enhancements.


Can you post a picture of the set up? Thanks. 

I'm contemplating on adding a hitch to my LE.


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## chazzz929 (May 8, 2013)

*Issue with trailer lights*

Hey everyone!

I just got my Atlas last week and had the chance to finally tow with it yesterday. I thought the towing was great, but the Atlas kept popping up with error to check my trailer brake lights and my other lights like there weren?t working. Double checked my plug connection and all the lights on the trailer and everything is fine and working. Anybody have any idea why it?s showing the error on the Atlas? Thanks!


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## vwbugstuff (Mar 27, 2004)

Are your trailer lights LED?


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## chazzz929 (May 8, 2013)

vwbugstuff said:


> Are your trailer lights LED?


. The rear ones are LED the corner ones are not. Would that cause an issue?


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## juched (Nov 12, 2004)

Waterloo dealership indicated they add the 7 pin adaptor for sold Atlas vehicles.


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## bocephus666 (Oct 10, 2017)

*Picture*

Any chance you could post that picture worth 1,000 words? 😁

Looking for the picture for removing the hood latch. Going to try the install tomorrow!


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## vwbugstuff (Mar 27, 2004)

chazzz929 said:


> . The rear ones are LED the corner ones are not. Would that cause an issue?



I read somewhere (etrailer.com, I think) the very low power draw from the LED trailer lamps will make the bulb out sensor think there is a burned out trailer lamp bulb. They sell load resistors that can be installed on the tail light circuit, or I guess you could just live with it.


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## TheGreyWolf (Oct 18, 2017)

*Pollack Adapter - all that is needed?*

So to be clear, I assume that if I pick up the Pollak adapter in order to wire up my trailer - just a small enclosed trailer for hauling RC planes and such - nothing heavy without need for electric braking, the Pollak adapter is all I need? No pigtails, etc.? Just plug the one behind the plastic plate into the adapter? Then I assume just a standard RV 7 Pole to 4 Pole flat adapter then I'm good to roll?

If that's the case, I am going to let the dealer know this little tidbit if he wants to make the annoyance factor much less for other customers after spending upwards of $50K and still needing to buy parts 

Thanks!

Ryan


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

bocephus666 said:


> Any chance you could post that picture worth 1,000 words? 😁
> 
> Looking for the picture for removing the hood latch. Going to try the install tomorrow!


Found a video that illustrates how to do it on a Mk7 Golf. The Atlas uses an identical setup.


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## TeamAtlas (Oct 17, 2017)

*Trailer Connector Not Functional*

Hello everyone,

Just wondering if anybody with more experience has any ideas on this weird situation. At present, my dealer does not know the answer (not that I'm at all surprised).

2018 Atlas Comfortline AWD VR6 (Canada). Had the dealer install the tow connector as part of the "deal". I was not asked at any time if I needed a "tow package" and I actually prompted them to add the connector since no one seemed to know what a trailer was or what to do with one. 

I bought a 7-way tester and hooked it up to the car. Surprisingly, left turn, right turn, and markers blinked in unison faintly and I had no other function (including on the +12v pin). I hooked these to a multimeter and found them blinking to only 0.3v. I inquired to the dealer and they suggested I try plugging in to a real trailer. Well I haven't bought mine yet so I backed up to some trailers they had in front of Lowe's and I got no function at all (I'm sure 0.3v wasn't enough to light any of the trailer's lights). Notably, it did not detect a trailer or give any indication at the dash. 

Had a friend come over and connect a VAGcom and run VCDS. We confirmed that I do have a trailer module and it has no faults, however we could not get any of the bulb tests to execute (rejected or refused by controller). Interestingly, we were able to command the +12v pin via coding. I read here today that the Rosstech software is not yet available for the Atlas, but that post was from June. 

In any case, I'm most surprised by the stories on here about people simply hooking up the connector and being good to go. 

Has anyone else seen anything like this? I will continue to work through this in case the resolution is of value to other owners. 

Thanks in advance! 

-Pat


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## juched (Nov 12, 2004)

Hmm, mine is installed but never tested. Will see if I can try it out. Canadian comfortline as well and plug installed at dealer.


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

TeamAtlas said:


> I bought a 7-way tester and hooked it up to the car. Surprisingly, left turn, right turn, and markers blinked in unison faintly and I had no other function (including on the +12v pin). I hooked these to a multimeter and found them blinking to only 0.3v.


I think this is expected. The trailer recognition control module seems to do a probing thing before it really applies power to lights and signals and such. I've noticed a similar thing before when using a 7-to-4 pin adapter with integrated test lights to pull a U-haul trailer. I get the little strobe pattern with just the adapter, and then everything goes live when the trailer is connected. Having hooked up that and a few other trailers, several times now, I can tell you I've noticed a delay of a second or two sometimes before the lights come on.



TeamAtlas said:


> I inquired to the dealer and they suggested I try plugging in to a real trailer. Well I haven't bought mine yet so I backed up to some trailers they had in front of Lowe's and I got no function at all (I'm sure 0.3v wasn't enough to light any of the trailer's lights). Notably, it did not detect a trailer or give any indication at the dash.


No function at the trailer is of interest, but I don't know what kind of trailers you were hooked up to. However, unless you really know what you're looking for, you may not notice a dash indication right away. The most prominent is that blind spot monitoring and rear cross traffic assist get disabled, and you'll get notified of that as soon as you try to move with a trailer attached. Also, Eco mode will go away, but that happens silently, you have to actually try to change modes to see it's locked out.

I think you're likely to see working lights once you hook up a real electrical load from a real trailer. I'm not sure why it didn't work for you at Lowes, though. It's possible the trailer module might have trouble identifying a small trailer with just a couple LED lights that doesn't draw much power, but I should think VW would find that in testing.



TeamAtlas said:


> Had a friend come over and connect a VAGcom and run VCDS. We confirmed that I do have a trailer module and it has no faults, however we could not get any of the bulb tests to execute (rejected or refused by controller). Interestingly, we were able to command the +12v pin via coding. I read here today that the Rosstech software is not yet available for the Atlas, but that post was from June.


I assume you're referring to my post in the VCDS support thread. Really almost everything worked the first time I tried it, but Ross-Tech identified a few gaps to be addressed. None of the gaps were related to the trailer control module. And, all the gaps were taken care of in the public Beta since July, and in the Release since August. There's a follow-up post from me in that same thread.

By the way, great first post, and welcome to the forum! :beer:

Jason


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## GTINC (Jan 28, 2005)

TeamAtlas said:


> .......Had the dealer install the tow connector as part of the "deal". I was not asked at any time if I needed a "tow package" and I actually prompted them to add the connector since no one seemed to know what a trailer was or what to do with one.....


It appears that you were not clear with the dealer what you wanted. If you had, it would be the dealer's responsibility to make sure it is functional. You need to be more upfront with the dealer, not hazy.


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## TeamAtlas (Oct 17, 2017)

Juched, if you could check that would be a good piece of data to have. I assume you weren't asked about a towing package either? 

Yes, Jyoung8607, I was referring to your post. Sounds like if I can reach the trailer module, then the tool is working properly. The trailer I connected to was a 7x16 enclosed trailer. If that won't pass the check, then I don't think anything would. I obviously didn't try to move the car, but I would really expect the indicators to function once connected. I expected there to be something on the dash like "Trailer Connected" but I guess not. 

I'll be contacting the dealer on Monday to request that they solve the problem, however I'm not confident that they will be capable (this same dealer told me that they didn't know how to hook-up a trailer controller but that was ok because you don't need brakes at ONLY 5000lbs!). 

Can anyone confirm that dealers have access to an engineering tech line that they can call?


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## juched (Nov 12, 2004)

The comfortline in Canada comes with the towing package always. That is why they didn?t ask you. 

Not sure how I can test as I don?t have a trailer yet. Didn?t realize how complicated this was.


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## TeamAtlas (Oct 17, 2017)

Juched, I'm in Windsor and also don't have a trailer. I just backed up to a 7x16 enclosed trailer that was for sale in front of my local Lowes and connected the electrical connector. I think, according to Jyoung8607, it should just take a minute for the lights to become functional once connected if it is working properly. 

I wanted to check mine before I tried to tow and I'm glad I did!


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## TeamAtlas (Oct 17, 2017)

Hmm. Thread got merged...

Still puzzled on this one but too busy at work to get to the dealer right away. I've booked it in for them to check it, though I might do a few more checks myself before hand. I'll post up once I get the diagnosis from the dealer trip. 

I'm also working on a REDARC Towpro Elite install for this car using the factory connector. Brake controller and connector body on order, just need to ID and order matching pins. Very much appreciate the info from Jyoung8607.


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## WeeeZer14 (May 25, 2012)

As I think about possible projects for a possible future Atlas, I looked more into the EBC (electronic brake controller) connector and how to hook things up without splices.

Based on the schematic from Erwin posted by jyoung8607, the EBC connector type is 1J0_972_722. Cross referencing that, it looks like the matching connector would be 1J0_972_782. That is available on ECS Tuning for less than $6.00.

That is just the plastic housing, so we'd need some repair wires as well. I _THINK_ part 000979228E will do what we want. Buy two wires and cut each in half which would give 4 pieces each with spades to go into the new housing and cut ends to butt-connect/solder to the wiring harness which comes with the EBC device you purchase.

Those wires are just over $10 each, so for under $30.00 (plus butt-connectors or solder and shrink wrap) we'd have a custom wiring harness.

*NOTE:* I have not tried this and have not field verified any of the parts I listed. There are also probably other vendors where these parts can be acquired.

As an aside, if anyone does NOT want to use an EBC but wants to rig a rear fog light or send power to the back for something like a rear facing dash cam, you can probably tap into the EBC wiring to get a run of wire to the rear of the vehicle without having to run it yourself.


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## TeamAtlas (Oct 17, 2017)

I've got the connector body in hand and the pins on order. If it all comes together correctly, I'll be crimping directly to the pigtails for the brake controller. I'll be posting images once I get it done and I'm hoping it will look pretty slick.


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## 2001 Variant (May 27, 2007)

Can you post some close up pics of every side of the connector or post any numbers on it? It looks like a connector from the Tyco/AMP Timer series. If it's not a custom part for VW you can probably get the housing from component suppliers like Mouser or Arrow. The contacts should be available there as well. Might even be able to get free samples from Tyco.


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## TeamAtlas (Oct 17, 2017)

It's not a Timer series connector. The contacts are much larger (higher currents). 

I haven't found these anywhere else and the contacts are even harder to find.


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## 2001 Variant (May 27, 2007)

I looked through the TE catalog for Timer series and the similar MCP and couldn't find the housing. I'm pretty sure it's a Timer series housing but probably restricted to VW. There are several versions within the timer family with different blade width (Micro Timer, Junior Power Timer, Standard Timer, Stanard Power Timer, Maxi Timer). Looks like the referenced repair wire has 4.8 mm blades so that would be Standard (Power) Timer contacts.

Also, from the pictures I can find online it doesn't look like 1J0_972_772 is the counterpart to 1J0_972_722 as it appears to be a female side. The PDF from Tekonsha for Touareg and Q7 references 1J0_972_782 as the part to use for the adapter. I believe the vehicle has 1J0_972_772 rather than 1J0_972_722 (although I can't tell from googled pictures what's different between 22 and 72 - might just be keyed differently). The Tekonsha PDF uses repair wire 000_979_228 which has Standard Timer contacts (4.8 mm). This repair wire is the same one referred to in this thread.

Upon further research it looks like these contacts are not 4.8 but 5.8 mm but mate with the same 4.8 mm receptacles. There are 4.8 mm tabs but they have asymmetric retention hooks that don't look like the ones on the VW repair wires. There are a ton of different ones with slight differences (material, plating, wire size, etc) but most should work. Here is an example: http://www.te.com/usa-en/product-1-963736-1.html if you click on the PDF drawing you can see the part numbers for other ones in the same series.


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## WeeeZer14 (May 25, 2012)

My bad, I pasted in the wrong part number in my last post. The matching connector I meant is indeed 1J0_972_782. I did get the price right though so I know I was on the right page. :facepalm:

Good find with the Tekonsha PDF. So it sounds like this is the right path.

- EDIT -

Well here we go, from eTrailer.com talking about the Touareg (this may be the exact same PDF mentioned above)...



> You will need the following parts (pictured above) that are available from a Volkswagen dealer - 1 connector housing (#1J0-972-782) and 2 wire/terminal assemblies (#000-979-228). Cut the wires from both wire assemblies in half so that you have 4 wires, each with a clip on one end and bare wire on the other. Connect the bare end of each of these wires to one of the wires on your brake controller, then slip the other end of each wire into its appropriate slot on the housing.


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## TeamAtlas (Oct 17, 2017)

I stand corrected. Looks like it is a Timer connector. I'll have to see if the pins I have on order are the right fit.


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## WeeeZer14 (May 25, 2012)

*UPDATE:* Experimentation by others has shown that the below part does *NOT* fit well after all. Keep reading further down in the thread to see any further updates...

Besides the Pollak vehicle-side connector (OEM 7L0055305N, ZVW808007 or Pollak PK11893) it looks like the Hopkins 40950 should work as well. Staff at eTrailer have confirmed it is a direct replacement for the Pollak part. Benefit is that it has both 7-way and 4-flat connectors so not adapters are needed if you need 4-flat for your trailer. It is a thicker and "chunkier" looking part though if looks matter to you.

Manufacturer's site
eTrailer
Amazon 
May also be available from auto parts stores, Northern Tool, etc.


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## vwbugstuff (Mar 27, 2004)

WeeeZer14 said:


> Besides the Pollak vehicle-side connector (OEM 7L0055305N, ZVW808007 or Pollak PK11893) it looks like the Hopkins 40950 should work as well. Staff at eTrailer have confirmed it is a direct replacement for the Pollak part. Benefit is that it has both 7-way and 4-flat connectors so not adapters are needed if you need 4-flat for your trailer. It is a thicker and "chunkier" looking part though if looks matter to you.
> 
> Manufacturer's site
> eTrailer
> ...



Good find!!!:thumbup::thumbup:


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## TeamAtlas (Oct 17, 2017)

I *think* I found the 5.8mm pins, and they are on their way from Asia to me. I'll be sure to post photos when it all comes together.


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## TeamAtlas (Oct 17, 2017)

Not sure if anyone is still looking at this, but I put some effort into investigating my install today. Here are my notes (may post the photos later if anyone is interested). I had all the parts and pins on hand 


Connector 1J0 972 782 is a 4.8mm housing
Connector 1J0 972 782 is NOT the correct mating housing
The sockets in the 1J0 972722 are smaller than 4.8mm (4.8mm mating pins do NOT fit)

So basically, back to the drawing board on the mating connector. I'd like to get a clean install of my setup and offer the info back to the group. I may contact my dealer :banghead:


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## WeeeZer14 (May 25, 2012)

I finally found a connection diagram that shows mating pairs. It looks like what we want is actually 1J0_972_732. 

https://www.jimellisvwparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=737540&ukey_product=5216283


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## TeamAtlas (Oct 17, 2017)

Yep that's where I got to a few minutes ago. I'm going to get one on order. Had the dash all apart today, so it should speed up the process once I get the actual parts.


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## WeeeZer14 (May 25, 2012)

Thanks for pressing on and keeping us in the loop!


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## ice4life (Nov 6, 2017)

TeamAtlas said:


> Yep that's where I got to a few minutes ago. I'm going to get one on order. Had the dash all apart today, so it should speed up the process once I get the actual parts.


how is taking the dash apart?


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## TeamAtlas (Oct 17, 2017)

Not too bad actually. I was taking some risks!

Don't try to pull the dead pedal up away from the floor! The door sill you just have to yank upwards and the panel behind the hood release is a very awkward tug (seems it's caught but everything flexes enough to get it out). Pull the sill up a bit and you can get the other panel out.

I used a cheap set of plastic trim tools with good success and no damage. I didn't get as far as the panel with the light switch in it, but I'll have to pull that next time.


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## ice4life (Nov 6, 2017)

TeamAtlas said:


> Not too bad actually. I was taking some risks!
> 
> Don't try to pull the dead pedal up away from the floor! The door sill you just have to yank upwards and the panel behind the hood release is a very awkward tug (seems it's caught but everything flexes enough to get it out). Pull the sill up a bit and you can get the other panel out.
> 
> I used a cheap set of plastic trim tools with good success and no damage. I didn't get as far as the panel with the light switch in it, but I'll have to pull that next time.


Thanks for the update. Seems pretty laborious! Any rattles now?


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## 2001 Variant (May 27, 2007)

Interesting they are using 2.8mm connectors. The male pins for that connector should be TE 2-964302-1. You can order samples from their website. Alternatively you can get repair wire 000979134E (you need two) but they are pricey from VW.


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## Chris4789 (Nov 29, 2017)

*Pollack Trailer Connector works with SEL Prem harness, Hopkins will not fit.*

As mentioned in this thread, I found the Pollack 11-893P 7 way socket was a direct match for the factory wiring harness at the trailer hitch on my 2018 Atlas SEL Premium. The bolts for the connector to the plate also lined up. It was about a 15 minute job to install the Pollack connector. ($12.57 from Amazon vs. $51.7 from VW) 

I also wanted to contradict an earlier post (#77) saying the Hopkins 40950 connector would fit (per info from eTrailer). I ordered the Hopkins 40950 and found two problems with installing it.
1) The body of the Hopkins is too large for the opening in the plate that is welded onto the factory tow hitch. You could enlarge the hole by about 1/8” if you really want to use this connector.
2) It appears only two of the four bolts holding the connector to the plate will line up. Therefore you have to re-drill at least two holes. Note there are nuts welded on the back side of the plate, so you probably need to grind those off before drilling. 

In summary, it is a lot of trouble to get the convenience of the Hopkins connector with both the 7 blade and 4 flat connections. I like dealing with eTrailer but this time I think their advice was incorrect. Curt makes an adapter for 4 way trailer connector to 7 blade on the Atlas if needed.

I hope this saves others some time and a return of parts that will not easily fit.


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## vwbugstuff (Mar 27, 2004)

Chris4789 said:


> As mentioned in this thread, I found the Pollack 11-893P 7 way socket was a direct match for the factory wiring harness at the trailer hitch on my 2018 Atlas SEL Premium. The bolts for the connector to the plate also lined up. It was about a 15 minute job to install the Pollack connector. ($12.57 from Amazon vs. $51.7 from VW)
> 
> I also wanted to contradict an earlier post (#77) saying the Hopkins 40950 connector would fit (per info from eTrailer). I ordered the Hopkins 40950 and found two problems with installing it.
> 1) The body of the Hopkins is too large for the opening in the plate that is welded onto the factory tow hitch. You could enlarge the hole by about 1/8” if you really want to use this connector.
> ...



Thanks Chris!

I was waiting to hear if the #40950 would fit with some simple modifications - bummer that it doesn't. I guess I'll be going the adapter route when my R-Line finally gets here.


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## WeeeZer14 (May 25, 2012)

Chris4789 said:


> I also wanted to contradict an earlier post (#77) saying the Hopkins 40950 connector would fit (per info from eTrailer). I ordered the Hopkins 40950 and found two problems with installing it.
> 1) The body of the Hopkins is too large for the opening in the plate that is welded onto the factory tow hitch. You could enlarge the hole by about 1/8” if you really want to use this connector.
> 2) It appears only two of the four bolts holding the connector to the plate will line up. Therefore you have to re-drill at least two holes. Note there are nuts welded on the back side of the plate, so you probably need to grind those off before drilling.
> 
> ...


Rats. Thanks for the update. I edited my previous post to warn others that that item did not pan out after all.


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## jgcincinnati (Dec 18, 2017)

*how did you remove the factory cover?*

The step between your first two pictures...after I removed the torx bolts, how does the factory cover pull out so to speak from the wiring harness? It seems tightly clipped together and I didn't want to break anything, so before I do anything I wanted to ask how you got them apart? Then I will be installing the Pollak 11-893P

Thanks!
Justin



jyoung8607 said:


> Yeah that was a surprise to me too, but I guess they do it to give you the option of adapting the truck to American or European style RV connectors or direct to 4-flat if you don't need the RV wiring.
> 
> If you want to go third-party, get the Pollak 11-893 adapter from either ETrailer or Amazon, it converts the Atlas hitch wiring to RV-style 7-blade with a weather cover.
> 
> ...


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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

jgcincinnati said:


> The step between your first two pictures...after I removed the torx bolts, how does the factory cover pull out so to speak from the wiring harness? It seems tightly clipped together and I didn't want to break anything, so before I do anything I wanted to ask how you got them apart? Then I will be installing the Pollak 11-893P
> 
> Thanks!
> Justin


Are you talking about the cover on the back by the hitch? There is a red plastic retainer that needs to be popped up before it will come apart


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## Luisge14 (Jan 13, 2018)

*2018 Atlas SEL - RLine*

Cool SUV for sure! little issue here, removed plate next to the trailer Hitch, bought an adapter 7 Round / 4 Flat at U-haul part # 30955.
Fits car perfectly but, my trailer does not get electricity at all. Anything I should turn on or perhaps off to be able to use my trailer? 

Just in case I did turned lights on....no auto

Thank you!


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## Atlas777 (Dec 23, 2017)

*Hitch completion*

I have the Atlas 4motion V-6 Premium. I've installed the 7 pin plug and since VW has yet to list an EBC ...................... want to know if E-trailers pn 3045p is correct as is for a plug & play connection to a Tekonsha P-3?

Anybody using this combination? You need an EBC (Elec. Brake Controller) hooked up and working to activate the trailers brakes when the Atlas brake pedal is activated.

I installed the 3045p on my F-150 (Tekonsha P-3) and it worked flawlessly for years.

TIA !


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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

Atlas777 said:


> I have the Atlas 4motion V-6 Premium. I've installed the 7 pin plug and since VW has yet to list an EBC ...................... want to know if E-trailers pn 3045p is correct as is for a plug & play connection to a Tekonsha P-3?
> 
> Anybody using this combination? You need an EBC (Elec. Brake Controller) hooked up and working to activate the trailers brakes when the Atlas brake pedal is activated.
> 
> ...


Did we ever determine what part is needed to go from VW to Tekonsha EBC?

I need to get mine installed 


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## Atlas777 (Dec 23, 2017)

*Hitch completion*

jyoung8607................ shows the VW hidden plug to be a T4AT. Does VW source/ sell a pigtail that matches the T4AT ?

If VW is a source then at least cutting the 4 wire prewired bundle would not be required (warrantee bla bla). The cutting/ splicing could then be done on the pigtail that comes with the EBC Tekonsha P-3.

I just don't want to lop off the already very short Atlas prewire bundle. But, VW bean counters "no thanks" to you when another 18" would have put the T4AT easily in view above your left foot when seated. 

:thumbdown


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## vwbugstuff (Mar 27, 2004)

0macman0 said:


> Did we ever determine what part is needed to go from VW to Tekonsha EBC?




As listed above, VW Part #1J0_972_732. Plus a couple of the corresponding repair wires. I confirmed with my parts guy that this is indeed the correct connector and I ordered one tonite. I will connect it to my current Tekonsha harness/pigtail which is plenty long enough.


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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

vwbugstuff said:


> As listed above, VW Part #1J0_972_732. Plus a couple of the corresponding repair wires. I confirmed with my parts guy that this is indeed the correct connector and I ordered one tonite. I will connect it to my current Tekonsha harness/pigtail which is plenty long enough.


What do you mean by corresponding repair wires?


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## vwbugstuff (Mar 27, 2004)

0macman0 said:


> What do you mean by corresponding repair wires?



It's hard to explain without visual aids - the connector I listed above does not come with the 4 pins/wires - it is just a bare plastic connector. The repair wires come in different gauges and there are pins at both ends, so for a 4-pin connector you need to buy two repair wires in the gauge you desire. Your dealer should have an assortment of 3 or 4 different gauges. Then you just butt-splice the repair wires to the wires on your controller pigtail. Hope that makes sense.....


This is the repair wire - you want this style with the "flat connector" - https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/repair-wire-priced-each/000979134e/


And here are some pics of the plastic connector: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/housing/1j0972732/

A seller on German eBay makes it easy: http://www.ebay.de/itm/Kabelsatz-Re...-972-732-1J0972732-KFZ-Elektrik-/151836888117

Or eBay France: http://www.ebay.fr/itm/Reparatursat...er-OEM-VW-1J0-972-732-1J0972732-/151836882730


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## vwbugstuff (Mar 27, 2004)

Atlas777 said:


> I have the Atlas 4motion V-6 Premium. I've installed the 7 pin plug and since VW has yet to list an EBC ...................... want to know if E-trailers pn 3045p is correct as is for a plug & play connection to a Tekonsha P-3?
> 
> Anybody using this combination? You need an EBC (Elec. Brake Controller) hooked up and working to activate the trailers brakes when the Atlas brake pedal is activated.
> 
> ...



No, 3045P will not plug & play - wrong connector. Sorry.


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## ribbit (Jun 4, 2012)

I must say I am amused by this thread. I own a 2012 Touareg TDI, Came with a hitch all wired plugged in a 7 to 4 wire adaptor hooked up the boat trailer and drove off. What's with all this nonsense of adaptors , tearing the car apart etc to tow with a tow vehicle, I don't get it. Altas needs a few yrs to get it's act together. It will eventually get there,but until that time I'm on the side line.


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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

ribbit said:


> I must say I am amused by this thread. I own a 2012 Touareg TDI, Came with a hitch all wired plugged in a 7 to 4 wire adaptor hooked up the boat trailer and drove off. What's with all this nonsense of adaptors , tearing the car apart etc to tow with a tow vehicle, I don't get it. Altas needs a few yrs to get it's act together. It will eventually get there,but until that time I'm on the side line.


My hitch came all wired up as well, depends on the trim you get

I need trailer brakes though. Most vehicles do not come with that pre wired from the plug.


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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

vwbugstuff said:


> It's hard to explain without visual aids - the connector I listed above does not come with the 4 pins/wires - it is just a bare plastic connector. The repair wires come in different gauges and there are pins at both ends, so for a 4-pin connector you need to buy two repair wires in the gauge you desire. Your dealer should have an assortment of 3 or 4 different gauges. Then you just butt-splice the repair wires to the wires on your controller pigtail. Hope that makes sense.....
> 
> 
> This is the repair wire - you want this style with the "flat connector" - https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/repair-wire-priced-each/000979134e/
> ...


Do you have the pinout for the connector?


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## vwbugstuff (Mar 27, 2004)

0macman0 said:


> Do you have the pinout for the connector?



It's earlier in this thread.


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## giantsnation (Dec 15, 2014)

For the SEL models with the brake controller wiring, does anyone have a picture of the OEM connector (in the drivers side footwell area)? Any part numbers on that?


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## giantsnation (Dec 15, 2014)

giantsnation said:


> For the SEL models with the brake controller wiring, does anyone have a picture of the OEM connector (in the drivers side footwell area)? Any part numbers on that?


OK found the picture. And from the post it looks like part number vw 1J0 92 722 is the one that attaches to this.


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## vwbugstuff (Mar 27, 2004)

giantsnation said:


> OK found the picture. And from the post it looks like part number vw 1J0 92 722 is the one that attaches to this.



giantsnation,

Are you looking for the OEM connector that is on the vehicle harness or the mating connector that you would splice into a brake controller pigtail?


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## giantsnation (Dec 15, 2014)

vwbugstuff said:


> giantsnation,
> 
> Are you looking for the OEM connector that is on the vehicle harness or the mating connector that you would splice into a brake controller pigtail?


I'm working with a friend who has built these pigtails before and he needs to know what the OEM connector part number is. He said from that he can get the correct connector to work with my brake controller. The connector I'm taking about is the one in this photo:


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## vwbugstuff (Mar 27, 2004)

giantsnation said:


> I'm working with a friend who has built these pigtails before and he needs to know what the OEM connector part number is. He said from that he can get the correct connector to work with my brake controller. The connector I'm taking about is the one in this photo:



Yes, the ***722 number is correct.

I bought the matching ***732 to connect to my brake controller pigtail.

Let us know how your set-up turns out!


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## Atlas53 (Jan 29, 2018)

*Difference in trailer brakes*

If you have a boat trailer, you have surge brakes, which don't require an electrical connection. The electric brakes on a travel trailer or heavy utility are another matter. A very few vehicles, think pickup trucks, come with a factory installed brake controller. Every other car or truck, including all Audi vehicles, require wiring for a brake controller. What's nice about the Atlas, Toureg, etc is that the wiring is in place, accessible in the cockpit, and is a plug in set up. You just need the wiring with the proper connectors at the one end for the vehicle, and at the other end, for your chosen brand of controller. PLug in both ends and you are set. Here is a source for that wiring for the Atlas - it also fits the Toureg and Audi from recent years. I bought one, and it's well made
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Touareg...-Harness-Audi-Q7-Porsche-Cayenn-/282443666380
This is for a Tekonsha controller. He makes less expensive harnesses that are practically universal for less money, as stated.


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## BrittH360 (Feb 15, 2018)

*Atlas 7-Pin Connections Help*

Hi,

I have an Atlas SEL Premium. It is setup for towing and has brake controller installed. I have hooked up to a camper just fine and all lights and breaks work correctly, BUT Pin 4 (12V Aux) does not have voltage on this when car is running. Do you have any suggestions?

Thanks in advance
Britt


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## Atlas777 (Dec 23, 2017)

Britt,

Are you sure the trailer brakes are coming on.................... not just the brake lites?

I have the Atlas SEL Premium and only added the Pollack 7 pin module. I've hooked to the camper and all tests except the actual trailer brakes since I need a P-3 controller yet.

Your question is same one for me. Hopefully someone will answer.

Carl


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

giantsnation said:


> I'm working with a friend who has built these pigtails before and he needs to know what the OEM connector part number is. He said from that he can get the correct connector to work with my brake controller. The connector I'm taking about is the one in this photo:


I can confirm it's 1J0 972 722 for the vehicle end. Here's a pic of the lopped off connector head that I kept. It's actually the same one in your picture, which looks to be a cropped version of what I posted earlier in the thread. I hardwired mine in, but I kept the connector head in case someone wanted to work with Tekonsha or someone later to start having proper vehicle integration harnesses made. I am still willing to send it off for the cost of postage if someone wants to tackle that.

It looks like the brake controller wiring end, the one you want to order, is probably 1J0 972 732. I have not personally tried it but it looks right just eyeballing pictures on the interwebs. There are a couple of eBay links above for prefab cables that look reasonably legit if you don't want to fabricate from scratch.


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## BrittH360 (Feb 15, 2018)

*Atlas 7-Pin Connections Help*

HI,

I have a VW Atlas SEL Premium. I have connected the trailer to the vehicles 7 pin connection and all works fine. Break Controller, Left, Right, and Running lights. The item that does not work is Pin-4 (12V Aux). Without this pin working, the vehicle will not charge the camper batttery while driving. So it also will not power any lights inside a smaller trailer.

Do you have any insight on wiring or fuses for this?

Thanks
Britt


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## Atlas777 (Dec 23, 2017)

Britt,

Because of the mix of copper wire, can bus, usb and logic node/bus on the Atlas it can be difficult to know what has voltage and when not. 

The logic circuit looks for a certain load level on circuits to determine 'a trailer is there' and I believe is the reason you can turn lights on and still read near zero on any of the 7 pins.

Pin 4 must be the T4AT that is feed for the "Brake Controller" whether it is the now available G508 or a Tekonsha or Curt etc.. You can find "Jason's" schematic posted early on in this thred.

Carl


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## TeamAtlas (Oct 17, 2017)

Britt,

I'll second what others have said. If you have not had an AFTERMARKET brake controller wired up, then your brakes are not functional.

The 12v AUX/Charging on Pin 4 is used to charge the battery on your RV via the alternator when you drive. In aftermarket hitch installs, this isn't always wired up since it can be a real drain on the alternator. I don't know if the pin is disconnected altogether or if it is switched on by the towing module. I suspect the logic will prevent it from going live until you've connected a trailer with a suitable chassis battery. At that point, you would see voltage across the trailer battery jump to 14.5v. If it is wired, it probably won't do it at idle, and will only allow it to work during actual driving. 

If it's not wired, you would have to add the wire from your battery (through a fuse or breaker) and run it back to the hitch connector.


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## jalvy333 (Mar 5, 2018)

*Atlas Brake Controller harness*



vwbugstuff said:


> As listed above, VW Part #1J0_972_732. Plus a couple of the corresponding repair wires. I confirmed with my parts guy that this is indeed the correct connector and I ordered one tonite. I will connect it to my current Tekonsha harness/pigtail which is plenty long enough.


Vwbugstuff, did the harness you made with the housing part *972732 and wire *979334e work out? There is a print out from VW regarding the parts needed for the dealer made harness for the Atlas and Toureg but they did not work (housing *2782 and wire *228e)


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## vwbugstuff (Mar 27, 2004)

jalvy333 said:


> Vwbugstuff, did the harness you made with the housing part *972732 and wire *979334e work out? There is a print out from VW regarding the parts needed for the dealer made harness for the Atlas and Toureg but they did not work (housing *2782 and wire *228e)



I haven't had chance to put it together yet, although I do have the parts.

I have to admit though, if I hadn't already bought the parts, I would have probably bough this one:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Atlas-P...915529?hash=item41dd22bcc9:g:rsgAAOSwkXdaqT6j


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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

I put a harness together with these part numbers this past week, everything fit and worked great.


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## irongraycc (Jan 10, 2011)

I did the same, put a harness together and everything works fine....except my ebc has power to it all of the time. Has anyone else run into this?


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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

irongraycc said:


> I did the same, put a harness together and everything works fine....except my ebc has power to it all of the time. Has anyone else run into this?


Even when the vehicle is off for an extended period? Every vehicle I have owned had EBC power for some time when off. Think it’s a safety thing


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## irongraycc (Jan 10, 2011)

0macman0 said:


> Even when the vehicle is off for an extended period? Every vehicle I have owned had EBC power for some time when off. Think it’s a safety thing
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I let it sit with power off for about five minutes last night...it was still powered on. I'll let it sit a little longer tonight and see what happens.


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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

irongraycc said:


> I let it sit with power off for about five minutes last night...it was still powered on. I'll let it sit a little longer tonight and see what happens.


I will check mine as well. I’m not sure on exact expected behavior but I do know the last two vehicles before the atlas had it powered after the vehicle was off, possibly all the time but not sure


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## 2001 Variant (May 27, 2007)

0macman0 said:


> I will check mine as well. I’m not sure on exact expected behavior but I do know the last two vehicles before the atlas had it powered after the vehicle was off, possibly all the time but not sure
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I believe on the Touareg the supply wire goes to a fuse that is always hot. I think most brake controllers have an auto power off feature.


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## irongraycc (Jan 10, 2011)

Alright....so my Tekonsha P3 turns off automatically after about 15 minutes! Thanks for the help!


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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

That sounds right


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Amazon. $15. Ready if I ever need it.









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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

KarstGeo said:


> Amazon. $15. Ready if I ever need it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Pulls like a mountain goat, I’m pretty happy honestly


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Funny it doesn't cone with one. Most vehicles with towing kits always have these in the glove box.

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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

KarstGeo said:


> Funny it doesn't cone with one. Most vehicles with towing kits always have these in the glove box.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


My thought as well. Funny that you can’t buy the pigtail pre assembled from VW, but you can get 1 color of repair wire and an empty socket.


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## vwyaer (Mar 13, 2018)

*3CN055203A DYI - without factory tow package*

I have the SE with Technology 4motion model and I installed an aftermarket hitch myself. While looking for a hitch wiring harness, I found the VW kit 3CN055203A. I searched the internet for the installation manual, but so far no luck. 

Has anyone installed this kit? Was it plug-and-play? Did it require ECU recoding or parameter change? Any information would be appreciated


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

So reading here it seems like some are saying that the ones coming from the factory with the VR6 and tow hitch have a 5K lb capacity but also come with heavy duty engine cooling, heavy duty alternator, and tranny oil cooling. Is this true? I can't find that info anywhere beyond the threads here.


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## Atlas777 (Dec 23, 2017)

*interior Hood Lever R&R*

This may help those being put off by the daunting R&R of the interior hood (Bonnet) lever.................... one of the steps to enable adding an EBC (electronic brake controller)to enable trailer brakes controlled by your normal right foot from inside the Atlas:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/?






There are many You Tubes etc but most are really for other VW vehicles. The photos here are the real deal.................... from my Atlas 

#4 pic clip or key lock in-place on the handle.

#5 pic " " " removed from handle. 

The #8 photo best shows the "Key lock" that must be removed before pulling off the handle. Pull gently on the handle to provide enough crevice (more room) for your taped up flat screw driver. But, the more you pull the tighter the key will resist "picking," thwarting sliding out, resisting and not allowing the handle to be removed.


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## Atlas777 (Dec 23, 2017)

*Atlas Trailer brake Control*

Empty Shell PN 1J0 972 732 
Pins 000979134E both ordered from ECS Tuning $52 dollars total and 3 days to my door (Excellent service). I made up my pig tail using those parts and a new Tekonsha P3 EBC.

The installed results are very good with every kind of braking result one would ever imagine (Excellent). 

Now I need one more step for satisfaction. Get the 7 pin to deliver voltage on the black pin so as to charge the campers 12 v house battery bus while towing... I believe the black (#4) blade on the Atlas is lacking 

either a "fuse" or "breaker" or both, to complete and activate that black aux 12 v line which would provide at least minimal EMF ie "make up" power to the camper battery. (((see my post 136 for some good news in this regard)))


What have you found......................... VW owes us some pointers here since they have sold this Atlas as a "Towing Machine". Rem the principle 4 color handout advertisement towing an "Airstream Camper" plus

many more ads of towing ability.


What have you found out? Thanks & HTH !


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## vwbugstuff (Mar 27, 2004)

*VW Atlas Plug and Play Trailer Brake Controller Harness*

https://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Atlas-P...915529?hash=item41dd22bcc9:g:rsgAAOSwkXdaqT6j


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## Atlas777 (Dec 23, 2017)

Thanks Kirk for the reply.

My pigtail supplies (black lead) power from the onboard battery and, if plugged in, from the Atlas. It jumps +1.3 volts and the bus shows 14.42 vdc upon starting the Atlas. 

I don't have time now to put a DC clamp meter on that wire to see the amps/milliamps but I expect it be less than 6 0r 8 amps given the OEM VW wire size and slow tach (idle).

Yet, it is fine for the current draw my small fridge takes in my SuperLite 19' camper since DC is used only for control when on propane.

I don't know yet if the black line remains powered when you park or if a timed "load-shed" switches it off.

The Tekonsha P-3 EBC works perfectly in this configuration.


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## vwbugstuff (Mar 27, 2004)

Atlas777 said:


> Thanks Kirk for the reply.
> 
> My pigtail supplies (black lead) power from the onboard battery and, if plugged in, from the Atlas. It jumps +1.3 volts and the bus shows 14.42 vdc upon starting the Atlas.
> 
> ...



*So, just to confirm, when the ignition is switched on, you do indeed have 12V power at PIN #4 to recharge the battery or power the 12V lighting/accessories in your camper?*


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## Atlas777 (Dec 23, 2017)

Kirk, et al

It does and at idle it is 14.4 vdc (Black wire). Enroute with my camper in tow I need the Fridge to keep ahead on voltage/ amps and it does that easily. Even at idle the 180 amp HD alternator is hardly working.

How is yours coming along? HTH


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## Petelemay (Apr 11, 2018)

*Plug and Play*

I recently purchased the same plug and play on ebay but am wondering if they ever fixed the battery pulse issue when using the Tekonsha P3. I called Tekonsha and they couldn't give me a definite answer. On the older model VWs and Audi they recommended a relay so the P3 would work correctly. Has anyone had any issues without a relay installed just using the plug and play cables? Thanks


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## Atlas777 (Dec 23, 2017)

Pete,

I used the VW schematic section provided by Jason and got ECS shell and wires (2 yields 4). I don't see any evidence of fuse/relay on that schematic. I know it could be off the paper but why would VW 

obfuscate that info? 

Searching the 2 main fuse/ relay modules doesn't show any nomenclature or empty slot for related relay/ fuse. On a vehicle this complex with everything from copper twisted pair to high speed Cat6/USB in use 

where in truck would it go............................ the 4 wire cable is dead headed under your left foot. The schematic shows a non-existent G508! We are forced to go after market if we have the need to complete our 

electric actuated trailer brakes.
They've been advertising the Atlas as a towing SUV and to hide maybe an auto-reset relay or fuse would be dirty business.

I did not do a plug and play but made up the wiring from an unused open pigtale obtained from a P-3 bought years ago. It is wired as per the schematic. It puts a charge on the black line. All my camper lights & brakes

work as does my P-3 Tekonsha. I think some people are getting confused because this Atlas switches functions off and on when you plug in to the Pollack connector. This truggy is not your fathers "Oldsmobile"!

HTH YMMV


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## Petelemay (Apr 11, 2018)

Thanks for the response Atlas777, what I was referring to was the Tekonsha bulletin TB0021. The P3 was having issues when connected to older VW and Audi brand vehicles and required a relay installed in the line between the vehicle and EBC. After speaking with a Tekonsha Technician he was unable to tell me whether the issue had been taken care of with the newer year model VWs such as the Atlas. Was wondering if anyone had been seeing their P3 act funny with a direct connect without the relay. Could be that it is a mute point but just wanted to double check before connecting mine. All the best, Pete


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## sayemthree (Mar 2, 2006)

My 2018 build atlas came with the wiring plug already installed as a factory option , there was a small option charge not very much


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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

Petelemay said:


> Thanks for the response Atlas777, what I was referring to was the Tekonsha bulletin TB0021. The P3 was having issues when connected to older VW and Audi brand vehicles and required a relay installed in the line between the vehicle and EBC. After speaking with a Tekonsha Technician he was unable to tell me whether the issue had been taken care of with the newer year model VWs such as the Atlas. Was wondering if anyone had been seeing their P3 act funny with a direct connect without the relay. Could be that it is a mute point but just wanted to double check before connecting mine. All the best, Pete


I’m using a Tekonsha primus IQ. no problems at all.


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## vwbugstuff (Mar 27, 2004)

Atlas777 said:


> Kirk,
> 
> It does and at idle it is 14.4 vdc (Black wire). Enroute with my camper in tow I need the Fridge to keep ahead on voltage/ amps and it does that easily. Even at idle the 180 amp HD alternator is hardly working.
> 
> How is yours coming along? HTH



Atlas777,

Finally got some decent weather to work on my project.

Assembled my harness pigtail on Friday and tested controller for power.

Installed my Tekonsha Primus IQ on Saturday and buttoned everything up. I mounted mine to the right side of the steering column so that I could see it clearly and reach it easily if I ever have to reach the "Emergency" Braking button.

Picked up my camper from storage today (Sunday). Tested for correct operation and brought the trailer home. Towed and braked beautifully. Once home I tested the 12v power to the trailer and all was good - operates like it should. Blind spot sensors, rear park sensors and Auto Start/Stop are automatically disabled when the trailer module is activated. 

If I were to do it again....I'd save myself the trouble and buy the pigtail from the guy on eBay. But since I already had the parts I just went ahead and "built" my own. Thanks to one of the original posters of this thread for the wiring info/details.


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## Atlas777 (Dec 23, 2017)

Kirk,

Good deal and glad it all worked perfectly.

I'm working now on installing wireless video for "backing up and also down the road" travel. I have a small 19' camper that needs that addition. Got one camera up and powered with the Atlas lights "On/Off". I

need the second one especially for the additional light of the LED infra-red for night time backup.

I drive my Atlas "On road" mode with "Sport" for the "heavier steering"............................... I learned to drive in the 1940s so you know where I come from. Anybody else doing this?


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## vwyaro (Feb 11, 2008)

*sway bar*

Hi All,

Towing related of course. We are looking at a 3000 lbs dry trailer and I heard that sway control systems are not a bad idea. The OEM trailer and hitch mount has finicky specs from what I understands and of course VW sells it own 

https://parts.vw.com/p/Volkswagen__...000-lbs-Max-Capacity/70042334/3CN092730A.html

If I go this route, then I wouldn't be able to install a sway control system correct? As the sway bar requires a different kind of receiver like this one: 

https://www.curtmfg.com/part/45820.


Any thoughts on how to proceed or should I just forgo sway control and go with OEM part.

TIA


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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

vwyaro said:


> Hi All,
> 
> Towing related of course. We are looking at a 3000 lbs dry trailer and I heard that sway control systems are not a bad idea. The OEM trailer and hitch mount has finicky specs from what I understands and of course VW sells it own
> 
> ...


Um, it’s a trailer ball. Get the one you need I would never buy an OE ball :banghead:


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## vwbugstuff (Mar 27, 2004)

vwyaro said:


> Hi All,
> 
> Towing related of course. We are looking at a 3000 lbs dry trailer and I heard that sway control systems are not a bad idea. The OEM trailer and hitch mount has finicky specs from what I understands and of course VW sells it own
> 
> ...


Well.....I'm putting my flame suit on early here...

By design, VW is specific about the ball mount and ball that is to be used with the factory hitch. There are specs in the owner's manual and on the hitch itself. It may cost more, but I will be buying the OEM Ball Mount that you listed above because I haven't been able to find an aftermarket ball mount/draw bar that is 6 1/2 inches from the center of the pin hole to the center of the trailer ball.

So that I can utilize the friction sway control bar (I bought the Husky brand), I'm going with one of these two adapter plates (see links below). I'm leaning towards the Reese one because it seems to be more hefty. I purchased both and I'll send back the one I don't use. Remember, whichever friction bar system you go with, remember to take it off before backing. Good luck and feel free to PM me if you have any other questions.

https://www.amazon.com/Reese-26003-...47478&sr=1-3&keywords=sway+control+ball+mount

https://www.amazon.com/Husky-39585-...&keywords=husky+sway+control+clamp+on+bracket

Husky Sway Control Unit:
https://www.amazon.com/Husky-34715-...rd_wg=V2O5y&psc=1&refRID=EMH7EBQ7MMMJNHE2NNE7

Clamp On Bracket if you don't want to drill into your trailer tongue:
https://www.amazon.com/HUSKY-TOWING...&keywords=husky+sway+control+clamp+on+bracket

Basic Install Video:
https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Pro-Series/83660.html


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## vwyaro (Feb 11, 2008)

vwbugstuff said:


> Well.....I'm putting my flame suit on early here...
> 
> By design, VW is specific about the ball mount and ball that is to be used with the factory hitch. There are specs in the owner's manual and on the hitch itself. It may cost more, but I will be buying the OEM Ball Mount that you listed above because I haven't been able to find an aftermarket ball mount/draw bar that is 6 1/2 inches from the center of the pin hole to the center of the trailer ball.
> 
> ...


That’s great! Exactly what I was looking for. I will probably do exactly as you have listed in your post! I didn’t know about the available adaptors etc. Certainly makes life easier. Thank you!


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## RyanA3 (May 11, 2005)

*sel premium*

just got an SEL Premium with hitch, but I need to add the trailer connector, as many as you have.

question
there are times I use 7 pole, and other times I need 4 pole.
I don't have the car with me today,
does anyone who has removed the plate know if one of these would work?

1. 
https://www.etrailer.com/p-HM40975.html?hhyear=2018&hhmake=Volkswagen&hhmodel=Atlas

2. 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W1O2FQ0?tag=vs-vwvortex-convert-20

manufacturer site for #2: http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.com/products/vehicle-wiring-harnesses/40950.html

if not, I can just get the OEM part and then an adaptor for 7 to 4.



the #2 item here
looks like the four holes MAY line up. it works with the Q7, nothing on the atlas yet.
looks like it's worth a shot!











cheers


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## liquidzoo (Jan 30, 2018)

For #2:

It _looks_ like it should fit, and it fits on the Toureg so the holes should line up.

#1 might work, but you would need an adapter for the factory plate.

This combo would also work:

Socket

Adapter


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## RyanA3 (May 11, 2005)

liquidzoo said:


> For #2:
> 
> It _looks_ like it should fit, and it fits on the Toureg so the holes should line up.
> 
> ...


thank you for the reply
I will be the guinea pig. 
ordered!
will advice

cheers!


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## Chris4789 (Nov 29, 2017)

*Will not fit.*

Just trying to save you some time and money, as mentioned in post #88 this adapter will not work. Holes do not line up and the body is too large for the opening on the plate welded to the hitch.


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## RyanA3 (May 11, 2005)

*tow hitch wire harness / plug option for dual 7 pin and 4 pin - hopkins 40950*

I REALLY wanted a dual plug option for 7 blade and 4 flat b/c I tow different things. I didn't want to go with an adaptor, call me stubborn.

Endurance Hopkins 40950 Multi-Tow 7 Blade and 4 Flat Vehicle Wiring Kit
https://www.amazon.com/Endurance-Ho...qid=1527125597&sr=sr-1&keywords=hopkins+40950

This item has been said to NOT FIT, and that is accurate. Unless you have a utility knife and a file, and about 10 minutes of time.

40950 hopkins by Ryan Mac, on Flickr

Remove the square plate, from the Atlas, unplug the harness, and then when go to put this into the hole, the diameter it too large.
you can use a utility knife and file to bring it down to size (the hopkins part, that is).

tools used:

IMG_6860 by Ryan Mac, on Flickr

go ahead and carve off some of the plastic in a consistent fashion, all the way around the part, so that it's still somewhat circular.
then use the file to clean it up a bit. 
this is before I filed it.....

the ugly:

IMG_6861 by Ryan Mac, on Flickr\

there is probably a better way to skin this cat, like with a tool smarter than a utility knife! suggestions welcome, to help the future hackers!
I couldn't think of anything, so I went with the caveman approach.
but when you push it in, you can't see any of that ugliness:

IMG_6863 by Ryan Mac, on Flickr

in fact, it looks gooooood:

IMG_6864 by Ryan Mac, on Flickr

I got tired and quit once I got it 98% flush. I will revisit next weekend, when I have more time.
but unless you're sitting down on the ground, it looks clean/oem-like.
as you can see, I can grind a bit more off, so that it goes to 100% flush, but honestly, it's not a big deal. you can't really tell.

Untitled by Ryan Mac, on Flickr


the holes do not line up. it's somewhat close. if you go to look directly into the hole, to see if it lines up with the hole behind it.... there is a sliver of light... so I used two black drywall-type screws (with bite) and drilled them in, and they grab on perfectly. 
I put them in opposite corners. I yanked on it and doesn't budge at all. 

IMG_6888 by Ryan Mac, on Flickr

IMG_6890 by Ryan Mac, on Flickr


IMG_6892 by Ryan Mac, on Flickr


I'm very late to the game here. 
So, I hope this helps at least one of my Atlas brethren. 
Happy towing.

IMG_6891 by Ryan Mac, on Flickr



then I got a Dremel. my first!
and it looks a little smoother now, and more importantly, it sits completely flush and OEM like
done deal

After Dremel by Ryan Mac, on Flickr


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

You can use a dremel with the sanding drum if you want.

Drywall screws will eventually rust, so you'll have to keep an eye out on them.

You'll probably have to get a grade 8 bolt and nylok nut eventually


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## RyanA3 (May 11, 2005)

BsickPassat said:


> You can use a dremel with the sanding drum if you want.
> 
> Drywall screws will eventually rust, so you'll have to keep an eye out on them.
> 
> You'll probably have to get a grade 8 bolt and nylok nut eventually


that's a good point. I don't think of things like that. thank you for taking the time!
I'll look for a thin nut/bolt set and report back with the size/#, in case anyone else is interested.
cheers!


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## ChubbaDub (Apr 21, 2008)

Nice work. I also was going to go that route but read it didnt quite fit properly so ended up going with these instead

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B6NQHW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007HRU8VA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## david.dunst (May 31, 2018)

*Where did you mount your EBC?*

First off, big thanks to everyone here! Bought an Atlas 2 months ago, went to pull my boat and was shocked to see I didn't have any way to connect the wiring. Dealer told me it was going to cost $200 to install the hitch harness and "recode" the wiring. I ordered the Pollack 11-839 and a Hopkins 7-4 adapter. Less than $20 and will take me 5 minutes to install.

I'm considering getting a Tekonsha P3 for the few times I pull a heavier (electronic braked) trailer. Where did you mount your brake controller to keep it looking "factory"?

Pictures appreciated.

Again, thanks for saving me a couple hundred dollars.


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## RyanA3 (May 11, 2005)

david.dunst said:


> First off, big thanks to everyone here! Bought an Atlas 2 months ago, went to pull my boat and was shocked to see I didn't have any way to connect the wiring. Dealer told me it was going to cost $200 to install the hitch harness and "recode" the wiring. I ordered the Pollack 11-839 and a Hopkins 7-4 adapter. Less than $20 and will take me 5 minutes to install.
> 
> I'm considering getting a Tekonsha P3 for the few times I pull a heavier (electronic braked) trailer. Where did you mount your brake controller to keep it looking "factory"?
> 
> ...




Good job

Is there really any coding involved? I bet not.


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## Pnvwfun (Jan 22, 2018)

RyanA3 said:


> Good job
> 
> Is there really any coding involved? I bet not.


There shouldn't be any coding if you have a factory hitch like the one on the SEL. There is a trailer assist mode for the rear view camera. The rear warning sensors also have to know if a trailer is connected or not. 

I had a similar issue the first time I wanted to pull a trailer, so I went to the dealer to ask why there was no adapter plug for the wiring harness already there. They said that they don't include that at the factory because it depends on which connector your trailer has. I showed them the trailer plug, and they had the mating adapter for $57, but the service manager gave it to me for free.


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## tbgti (Oct 23, 2017)

Just ordered the eBay pigtail and looking to purchase the Tekonsha 90195 P3 brake controller to pull our new-to-us 2011 Jayco Jay pop-up.

I read through the forum a few times & still unsure whether we are good wiring without a “relay” for controlling the electronic brakes on the Jayco. 

I have a SEL with the factory tow package and just hooked up the pollak connector in the back. 

Thanks in advance and sorry if I totally missed the answer that I was looking for!


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## 0macman0 (Nov 6, 2017)

I’m using a tekonsha prodigy without a relay and have had zero issues


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## Scott Evil (Aug 21, 2002)

Great thread—covered all of my trailering questions before we trade our Q5 for an Atlas.

Anyone wondering, the brake controller hookup is NOT the same as other recent models from VW and Audi. Same part numbers for the 4pin connector under the dash. The plug in our SEL Premium has part number 1J0971874 and will not fit the Touareg/Audi connectors (although the eBay item looks really nice). I ordered the correct plug and wires today and will get it put together later this week.

Before delivery I asked the dealer to pull out the plug under the dash so I can connect my Tekonsha EBC.

We initially went with a wireless EBC. It worked for our first two camping trips and would never pair after that. Great idea, but unreliable. If you are considering, I recommend passing on it.

Also the sway controller setup we have carries over as well. Here are some phots from our Q5. New Atlas pics will come later.










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## RyanA3 (May 11, 2005)

when you remove the plate and install a wiring adaptor, is that it? it's plug and play? or is there vag-com involved to activate everything?

cheers


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## Hfqkhal (Oct 14, 2018)

RyanA3 said:


> when you remove the plate and install a wiring adaptor, is that it? it's plug and play? or is there vag-com involved to activate everything?
> 
> cheers


From what I have seen is that it is plug and play but you have to put the screws to keep in place. The break control seems to need some work inside on the driver door sill side.


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## tbgti (Oct 23, 2017)

RyanA3 said:


> when you remove the plate and install a wiring adaptor, is that it? it's plug and play? or is there vag-com involved to activate everything?
> 
> cheers


You’ll need remove the plate next to the hitch and install the Pollak (or similar) plug. I believe at this point the trailer lights will function, but obviously, not trailer brakes. 

For the brakes - Order the eBay harness and connect to the plug hanging out under the driver’s side sill plate. Run that under the dash to your brake controller and you’re good to go, no vag-com needed. 

PS - the P3 controller works great. 


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## sschroer (Apr 15, 2019)

*Fuse*

I forgot to disconnect the battery when connecting the wiring harness and I think I created a short, does anyone know which fuse is associated with the brake control wiring harness?


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## Chris4789 (Nov 29, 2017)

*Hopefully some help.*

This should be an easy question to answer but VW does not make it easy.
1) I’d suggest you go Post # 19 here to get a map of the two fuse panels on a 2018 Atlas. https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthr...-find-the-fuse-box-diagram&highlight=fuse+map
2) I did a quick look and found fuses: SC22, SC28 and SC38 having to do with the “Towing Control Module” 
3) You could spend more time to look through the list and possibly find others associated with the wiring harness, but they did not jump out at me. 


Good Luck & let us know what you find.


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## sschroer (Apr 15, 2019)

*Fuse*

I pulled those 3 fuses and they looked to be in good shape so it must be some other issue. Still no power to the cord, might have to just go to the dealer to get it sorted. Thanks for the input.


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## s12dxer (Dec 10, 2018)

Hfqkhal said:


> From what I have seen is that it is plug and play but you have to put the screws to keep in place. The break control seems to need some work inside on the driver door sill side.


I installed the pollack connector that came from the dealer (quite easy, just took a bit to get the plate off), and bought a 7-pin to flat-4 adapter that lights up to indicate power. The adapter lights up, but just flashes. I'm assuming that's because the trailer isn't actually connected, and the sensors can't see it.

Getting my boat out of storage this weekend and will see if everything works once fully hooked up... pics too


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## sschroer (Apr 15, 2019)

sschroer said:


> I pulled those 3 fuses and they looked to be in good shape so it must be some other issue. Still no power to the cord, might have to just go to the dealer to get it sorted. Thanks for the input.


After 8 hours the dealer figured out that it was a secret fuse, not in either fuse box but hidden under the dash, quick fix once they figured that out


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## Chris4789 (Nov 29, 2017)

*Undocumented Fuse*

Thanks for the update.
I hope you did not have to pay for more than 1 hour of the 8 it took to find the undocumented fuse you blew. If you did I would make a claim back to VW for their incompetence in not documenting an electrical component of the vehicle. 
I strongly believe the only way to get manufacturers better is to cause them profitability and public pain. Well crafted letters to the CEO often gets results once you have been denied at a lower level.
Good Luck.


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## mhjett (Oct 16, 2000)

Apologies if this has been covered already, but does anyone have a good recommendation on a 7-way to 4-pin adapter? 




KarstGeo said:


> Amazon. $15. Ready if I ever need it.


I put the Pollack 11-893P on last weekend. I think it's literally the same thing VW charges you $57 for.


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## ToySlacker (Aug 10, 2007)

KarstGeo said:


> Amazon. $15. Ready if I ever need it.


Rugs for your Atlas... it's living a pampered life!


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## s12dxer (Dec 10, 2018)

s12dxer said:


> I installed the pollack connector that came from the dealer (quite easy, just took a bit to get the plate off), and bought a 7-pin to flat-4 adapter that lights up to indicate power. The adapter lights up, but just flashes. I'm assuming that's because the trailer isn't actually connected, and the sensors can't see it.
> 
> Getting my boat out of storage this weekend and will see if everything works once fully hooked up... pics too


Hooked up, and everything worked as expected, sensors detected the boat, disabled auto stop/start, blind spot monitoring, and updated lane keep to include trailer. Towed for 150 miles, and did quite well with hills, dirt roads, bumps, etc.


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## s12dxer (Dec 10, 2018)

s12dxer said:


> Hooked up, and everything worked as expected, sensors detected the boat, disabled auto stop/start, blind spot monitoring, and updated lane keep to include trailer. Towed for 150 miles, and did quite well with hills, dirt roads, bumps, etc.


Here are some pics as well:






















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## SNS1938 (Jan 13, 2014)

Just trying to make sense of all of this.

1) My new SE (pick up this weekend) has the tow package, so will have wiring, but no ''plug''. So I should just say I need the dealer to fit the $58 VW plug, and then I'm sorted for lights?
2) Then I should buy this adapter, which goes ..? (under the dash, under the hood or in the rear bumper?) to have electric braking ability on braked trailers?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Atlas-Plug-and-Play-Trailer-Brake-Controller-Harness-ATLAS-ONLY/283412932586



Thanks


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## vwbugstuff (Mar 27, 2004)

SNS1938 said:


> Just trying to make sense of all of this.
> 
> 1) My new SE (pick up this weekend) has the tow package, so will have wiring, but no ''plug''. So I should just say I need the dealer to fit the $58 VW plug, and then I'm sorted for lights?
> 2) Then I should buy this adapter, which goes ..? (under the dash, under the hood or in the rear bumper?) to have electric braking ability on braked trailers?
> ...



The 7-pin plug under the bumper can be purchased on Amazon for $17. It is the exact one that VW sells for $58. If you pitch enough of a fit, your dealer might just throw it in for you.

The harness above goes under your dash and connects your trailer brake controller to the wiring pigtail that VW provides from the factory. It's well worth the money if you will be using a brake controller.


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## SNS1938 (Jan 13, 2014)

Thanks, that clears it up.

The dealer kept dodging the question, then said its $325 to add the plug. I'll do amazon.

So you plug in under the dash and leave it there, you don't have to take it in and out or anything? 

Thanks,


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## Hfqkhal (Oct 14, 2018)

SNS1938 said:


> Thanks, that clears it up.
> 
> The dealer kept dodging the question, then said its $325 to add the plug. I'll do amazon.
> 
> ...


look at this:






and this:


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## Need_a_VW (Nov 14, 2002)

KarstGeo said:


> Amazon. $15. Ready if I ever need it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Did the same thing as KarstGeo. Took me about 10 minutes. The Red Clip that held in the factory cap threw me for a minute, but I was able to get it loose and get the cap off. I went ahead and purchased the 7-pin to 4-pin converter. Out the door at Amazon for $21!!! I don't need a brake controller for what I tow, so this was pretty inexpensive to tow my utility trailer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B6NQHW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HG17URC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## ToySlacker (Aug 10, 2007)

What am I missing? Did I straight up buy the wrong adapter??

I bought the Hopkins 48470 Trailer Connector, Multi-Tow Endurance 3-in-1 Connector.

I have no immediate need for this, but on occasion I use a small utility trailer that has lights. 

I've never had to do this sort of small job on a car, my prior suburban already had the connection ready to go.

I feel like I over estimated my electrical abilities.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk while cursing


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

ToySlacker said:


> What am I missing? Did I straight up buy the wrong adapter??
> 
> I bought the Hopkins 48470 Trailer Connector, Multi-Tow Endurance 3-in-1 Connector.
> 
> ...


Looks like you got the wrong one. Should be a link to what I got above in the thread...no wiring needed just plug and play. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## vwbugstuff (Mar 27, 2004)

The connector you bought is for a vehicle that didn't come with the plug from the factory. It's one step more in the wiring process than what you need. Order the Pollak and the 7-4 pin adapter listed and you'll be good to go!!!



ToySlacker said:


> What am I missing? Did I straight up buy the wrong adapter??
> 
> I bought the Hopkins 48470 Trailer Connector, Multi-Tow Endurance 3-in-1 Connector.
> 
> ...


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## ToySlacker (Aug 10, 2007)

vwbugstuff said:


> The connector you bought is for a vehicle that didn't come with the plug from the factory. It's one step more in the wiring process than what you need. Order the Pollak and the 7-4 pin adapter listed and you'll be good to go!!!





KarstGeo said:


> Looks like you got the wrong one. Should be a link to what I got above in the thread...no wiring needed just plug and play.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Thank you and thank you. So, I was over-ambitious trying to get a 5 prong as well. At least I only wasted about $15 on this piece.


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## JeffandShelley (Aug 30, 2018)

*2018 Atlas, Aux(pos)output towing harness*

I bought the Atlas specifically for the towing package.,after which only to find out it didn,t include the brake controller. but I eventually got that figured out. I went camping and found my trailer battery isn,t charging during travel, I put a meter on the hitch harness, there is no voltage coming from vehicle on the aux output Positive wire. Anybody know where I should go from here.


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## GTINC (Jan 28, 2005)

It is the dealer's service department function to help you with this. Do you know it is even suppose to charge the battery from the vehicle.


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## macaddict (Oct 12, 2014)

It is my understanding that it senses the trailer plug before it sends the electricity. So if you just check the single pin, you won’t see anything. 

You notice this when you plug in a 7 pin tester. It doesn’t show anything working because it is not a true load. 

Are you using a 7 prong adapter?


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## JeffandShelley (Aug 30, 2018)

Ah no I didn,t, , I do not have a tester but I will hook up trailer and test it that way, thanks for the info. I will get back with what I find.


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## aznives3 (Sep 20, 2013)

looking at picking up a travel trailer this coming weekend so I went to install a tekonsha P3 on my atlas tonight. I decided I was ok with hardwiring it into the factory harness, so I cut off the connector and made the 4 connections based on this thread. plugged in the P3, switched ignition to on and nothing at all. does anyone know if a trailer needs to be plugged in at the back for the controller to work? or what fuses might be related to the EBC wiring?

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## aznives3 (Sep 20, 2013)

aznives3 said:


> looking at picking up a travel trailer this coming weekend so I went to install a tekonsha P3 on my atlas tonight. I decided I was ok with hardwiring it into the factory harness, so I cut off the connector and made the 4 connections based on this thread. plugged in the P3, switched ignition to on and nothing at all. does anyone know if a trailer needs to be plugged in at the back for the controller to work? or what fuses might be related to the EBC wiring?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk


Went back under there with a circuit tester. NO power at the harness clip at the back of the tekonsha. Next thing to check was my hardwire connections spliced into the vehicle connector.....and still no power at the red/white cable of the vehicle wiring. So i'm not getting any power to that EBC harness. I've checked the 4 fuses behind the driver left cubby that would be marked as "tow XXXX", actually, i checked all the fuses with my circuit tester and they're all good.


what am i missing here???


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## antzz (Jul 19, 2019)

noticed amazon now has a 11893 ($13cad) and 11893p ($24cad).which one is the right model for the atlas? thanks


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## *DesertFox* (Sep 26, 2017)

antzz said:


> noticed amazon now has a 11893 ($13cad) and 11893p ($24cad).which one is the right model for the atlas? thanks


I found this review on Amazon US...

Pollak 11-893P RV 7-Way Socket (Oem Style)

Perfect fit for my 2019 VW Atlas 
By Denver on Jan 26, 2019 
Definitely was a perfect fit for my 2019 VW Atlas. Installation was easy and I used the hardware from the existing plastic cover crap that VW installed.
Images in this review


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## mhjett (Oct 16, 2000)

antzz said:


> noticed amazon now has a 11893 ($13cad) and 11893p ($24cad).which one is the right model for the atlas? thanks


I have the Pollak 11-893P on my SEL R-Line. Works perfectly. It's literally the same thing that VW charges over $50USD for.


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## eggwhite93 (Nov 7, 2014)

*Trailer connector*

We just picked up our new Atlas SEL-P to go along with our Tiguan SEL-P and I need the 7-pin connector. I know I read on here at one time about getting the connector on Amazon or somewhere other than VW but I can’t find it again. I think it was from Pollak but I don’t know the exact one to get. Can one of you point me in the right direction? Thanks!


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## vwbugstuff (Mar 27, 2004)

eggwhite93 said:


> We just picked up our new Atlas SEL-P to go along with our Tiguan SEL-P and I need the 7-pin connector. I know I read on here at one time about getting the connector on Amazon or somewhere other than VW but I can’t find it again. I think it was from Pollak but I don’t know the exact one to get. Can one of you point me in the right direction? Thanks!



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B6NQHW?tag=vs-vwvortex-convert-20


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## eggwhite93 (Nov 7, 2014)

vwbugstuff said:


> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B6NQHW?tag=vs-vwvortex-convert-20



Thank you!


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## tucsonans (Nov 25, 2018)

*12V Source / Rearview Camera Power*

I have a SEL Premium with a Prodigy RF and dealer installed 7-pin. All trailer lights and brakes are working well but it appears no 12V is being supplied to the trailer, which does have LED lights. Additionally, the trailer has a Haloview rearview camera that will not activate when connected to the Atlas (even with lights in the On position), which I believe is related. I've read a couple of posts that seem similar from 2018 and was wondering if anyone has found a solution since then? Was the factory installed 7-pin installed without the power supply connected, is there a required relay or fuse or is this related to Tech Bulletin # TB0021? Thanks for any help.

P.S. I towed a 3000lb TT from Quebec to Denver and the Atlas performed great, averaging around 12-13 MPG.


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## firstcpu (Nov 5, 2007)

*2019 Tiguan trailer module install.*

I just installed the hitch and electronics for the trailer wiring,. My question is, I connected the two wires behind the glove box and now I have numerous error lights ranging from the start stop system to front assist. Is this normal? Im bringing it to VW tomorrow so they can code the module. Once that is done will it return to normal? All components are OEM (no aftermarket).
Thanks in advance for any information.


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## Chris4789 (Nov 29, 2017)

*Two wires?*

What are the two wires behind the glove box for? What info told you they needed to be connected? Are they related to the electric brake controller? 
I did not have to do anything except install the plug at the hitch to get the plug functional and use the surge brakes on my boat trailer.


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## todd.brock (May 16, 2006)

*Trailer wiring question*

Hi all. I have a question about an indictatornlight that popped up on dashboard. I have a 2018 SE w/Tech and factory tow hitch and wiring. I installed the Pollock 7 way plug. I use a 4/5 flat to 7 way adapter. I re wired my utility trailer today with new LED lights and am getting a weird indicator on the dash when I use the turn signals. It’s the arrows with the number 1. I have been searching for an hour and can’t find anything on this. It only illuminates with the turn signals. 

Any idea what this is??










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## D3Audi (Feb 18, 2016)

That’s normal. It’s letting you know there is a trailer connected. All VWs and Audi’s with factory tow packages do this. 

The car automatically engages tow mode when trailer lights are plugged in. 


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## GTINC (Jan 28, 2005)

todd.brock said:


> ......It’s the arrows with the number 1. I have been searching for an hour and can’t find anything on this.....


And you referred to the OM?


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## todd.brock (May 16, 2006)

I have not found any information on that little icon. I had a couple of ground issues with the trailer being a little rusty, so I wasn’t sure if that was causing a weird short. Thanks!


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## JBkr (Jun 18, 2018)

No, the second light is just confirming you trailer light are working. 






todd.brock said:


> I have not found any information on that little icon. I had a couple of ground issues with the trailer being a little rusty, so I wasn’t sure if that was causing a weird short. Thanks!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Ocala (Apr 7, 2020)

*Wire Harness Fuse*

Atlas 2019 SEL pre wired w/ trailer package - I wanted to change the the T4at connector at the end of the trailer brake controller. I wound up shorting out the cable. I have been looking all over to find out how this cable is fused. Does anyone know where it is.
I have tested all the ATF fuses that I can find (under the hood,7 in the dashboard ) They all tested good. Any Ideas


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## Chris4789 (Nov 29, 2017)

You might check out my post #168 in this thread where I think the same question was asked and I mention a few specific fuses possibly on that circuit. 
Good Luck & let us know if you get a definitive answer.


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## Ocala (Apr 7, 2020)

Thanks, I re checked the fuses in SC22,38 and 44 they were all good . In going through your post looking for the one you mentioned I came across one from SSCHROER who had the the same problem. He wound up spending 8 hours at the dealers to get it fixed.
There is a 30Amp fuse located under the dashboard fuse box. To get at it you have to remove the panel under the dash (4 screws ) it also helps to remove the connection going to light for the driver side floor ( you'll see what I mean ) so you can get the panel out of your way., behind a black relay in the middle you will find the fuse.Yes it can be difficult to get it out. Now that I have power I have hooked up my brake controller ( I have two ) each of them give me error - I have a reese and a drawtite not sure of the model they look the same and I believe they are each made by the same company in Mexico -Now it's off to find if there is something else with the Atlas that would make each of these controllers show error or are they broken. Once again thank for the help


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## THEREED (May 21, 2018)

*Accessory Wiring*

I have a 2018 SE Tech RLine 3.6 4motion that I am looking to add a few electrical accessories (7 pin trailer wiring and auxillary lights). Both need power from the battery. Instead of attaching to positive battery terminal, can I hook on to the silver connectors on the front of the underhood fuse box? I saw a video from etrailer where they did it. If you open the under hood fuse box (driver side) you will see since silver threaded posts. Can I simply loosen and slide a connector? Are they all the same? I think it would be cleaner and easier than going to battery directly


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## GTINC (Jan 28, 2005)

You only want to add devices to the fuse box inside the interior near the driver's feet. Never to the power-train fuses in the engine compartment.


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## wsutard1 (Dec 28, 2018)

Did you ever figure this out? I just ran into this same problem. Purchased a boat trailer winch that connects into the 7pin but it doesn’t work because the Aux(pos) doesn’t provide enough output. 

I went looking for a wiring diagram to try to figure this out but didn’t find anything.


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

you can do anything you want. it will work.

it is not the recommended way though. you are adding more amperage draw on that circuit, depending how exactly you do it. I am positive there is more than enough amperage available. The bigger issue would be how you fuse the wire you are running to the rear of the car. if you add a say 10 amp fuse within a few inches of the tap, you would be fine.

I just fail to see how this is "cleaner" than using a traditional "fuse tap" in that panel in an empty ATC fuse spot, which you have a few of.. https://www.amazon.com/Pixnor-Circu...ocphy=9018747&hvtargid=pla-307234676336&psc=1


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## joninotown (Aug 8, 2021)

dieselpwr said:


> There's a small rectangular plate on the left of the hitch. You need to remove the small plate and replace it with a plug. VW really should've included it, but the new Q7 is the same.
> 
> This is the piece you need. I suggest buying it on Amazon for a lot less.
> 2018 Volkswagen Atlas Trailer Hitch 7-Pin Connector - 7L0055305N - Genuine Volkswagen Accessory


So is the wiring there and you plug this part in or you need the whole wiring harness?


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## Chimera21 (May 10, 2021)

joninotown said:


> So is the wiring there and you plug this part in or you need the whole wiring harness?


YES the wiring is there, just remove the cover on the trailer plug and plug in the adapter. Get it on amazon for WAY less than link above. You can also buy an adapter to convert the 7 wire to 4 wire blade type


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## froussy (Jun 17, 2009)

Just install the Tekonsha P3 with the harness from ebay. Is that normal that the P3 stay on even after car is off and locked? (no trailer plugged)


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## froussy (Jun 17, 2009)

froussy said:


> Just install the Tekonsha P3 with the harness from ebay. Is that normal that the P3 stay on even after car is off and locked? (no trailer plugged)


forget.. after 10-15 min the P3 turned off (or in sleep mode)

that was really easy to install.. 10 min max!


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