# MK3 Adjust Parking Brake at Caliper



## mwysienski (Apr 5, 2011)

There might not be a straight forward answer for this...

I've changed all my pads, my parking brake cables, ordered torsion springs to help relax the parking brake lever on the back of the caliper when not in use...and the rears are still rubbing a little bit. When I roll up to a stop light without hitting the brakes (as I usually do to look cool  lol), you can feel an obvious little tug on the back brakes when I come to an absolute stop. I'm getting on average a little over 300 miles per tank, like about 320ish. My friend had a 98 K2 a few years ago, and he was getting over 400 miles consistently. 

There's a little plate that the lever is (I think) supposed to rest against when not is use. I saw somewhere that this little plate came with a tiny little thimble shaped rubber nipple type thing that went over it. If this is true (does anybody know if this is true?), then the original intention was not to let the lever hit metal to metal with the resting plate. Therefore, maybe my levers are relaxing too far...?

I've seen on a couple pages, including Dan's DIY page http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed/Campingart/jettatech/fuelparkbrake/index.htm, to adjust them to the point where the lever only comes close (1-3mm) to hitting the resting plate.

I called VW to see if they have these little alleged rubber stopper cover thingies. The guy had never heard of them. However, I think all his knowledge on the subject was coming from the exploded view of the caliper that was in their parts' computer.

Is Dan's advice accurate? If so, what's the reason they didn't make the metal resting plate a little closer to the lever? I was going to maybe put a zip tie on there to replicate the rubber stop, but I wasn't sure if my assumptions with this are on the right track. ...or should the parking brake cables be adjusted so tight as to not let the lever come all the way back up?

Are your guys' brakes like Dan's?


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## greyhare (Dec 24, 2003)

Bentley manual page 46-13:

1. Release parking brake. Remove trim from parking brake lever. Loosen locknuts at cable ends.

2. Tighten adjusting nuts at base of parking brake lever until levers on brake calipers just begin to lift off of stops on caliper. (Max. gap between lever and stop: 1.5mm)

3. Pull up on parking brake and then release. Check that both wheels turn freely. Tighten cable locknuts.


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## mwysienski (Apr 5, 2011)

Any usable experience in the matter? Or deeper insight to how this mechanism works on the inside? I could come up with my own solution if I knew why they don't want the lever to rest all the way down.

I noticed last night, the part that the cable clips sturdily on has a little bolt holding it onto the back of the caliper. This is the same piece of metal as the rest plate, which is missing the rubber stopper. Is it possible that this plate has moved from its original position and is now telling the lever to rest in an unfavorable way?

Also, FYI...that round rubber bumper that says "Ford" which is bolted to that metal piece that the stopper is on, is not a weight. I think it's just an odd way to protect the cable. If you grab that Ford piece, you'll see it's very sturdy. It is fixed to a stationary piece, not something that can move freely and help relax the parking brake. ...or is mine supposed to move freely?


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## OddJobb (Nov 6, 2004)

There's no rubber bumpers on mine.

Are the disc brakes original equipment on this car, and not a drum-to-disc conversion?

To me, it sounds like your simply not adjusting the parking brake cables correctly. The metal stop on the caliper you speak of is the full released position for the parking brake. If you wedge something in it/on it, your engaging more brake which will cause them to drag, which is not what you want.


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## mwysienski (Apr 5, 2011)

Well, that's what I thought too.. But I actually tried my zip tie fix, and I think it made it a little better. It's def not any worse. 

These are OEM calipers. It's one of the few differences that make it a Wolfsburg. 

I got this other idea that maybe because I pull my parking brake so hard ('cause I feel like I'm being extra careful), maybe that rotating thing inside the caliper is always maxed out against the piston. So the piston would never have a chance to back off of the pad. 

I just filled my tank. I'm going to try to go through the whole tank without using the parking brake and see if that changes anything, but I'm still looking for some hard facts in the meantime.


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

It's obvious that you don't own a Bentley VW Factory Service Manual, since you don't seem to understand how the brakes on the car work. I strongly suggest that you buy one before you work on your car again. You can get one off Amazon.com for less than $40 shipped. 

Driving around without using the parking brake is going to result in mushy brakes. 

The rear brake pad clearance is adjusted automatically when you FULLY engage the parking brake. If you don't fully engage the parking brake, as the rear brake pads wear, the brake pad to rotor clearance increases, and the amount of brake pedal travel inside the car required before the front OR rear brakes engage will increase. 

The rubber covered round weight marked Ford was added during the 97 model year to help the parking brake lever return to the rest postion when the parking brake is released. The problem with the weights is that the weight on the right side rear brake caliper hits the metal gas tank shield that was also added during the 97 model year as the suspension works. Personally, I removed the weights from both rear brake calipers to avoid damage to the right brake caliper, and trailing arm. If you want to keep the weights, you could try removing the metal shield and reshaping it so the caliper weight doesn't hit it. 

The parking brake handle is designed to be pulled to the stop, so the parking brake will self-adjust. There isn't anything else you can do except make sure that your parking brake cables are in good condition (so they slide properly as the parking brake is used).


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## mwysienski (Apr 5, 2011)

I feel like I'm talking to myself. ...and about the price of the book that will say the same thing that I've read a 100 times before making this thread, no it is not. Stop riding Bentley. I've seen you post that over and over. Everybody here is looking for help or advice one way or another, not to hear your suggestion for online purchases. 

Anybody have something constructive to say without the need to insult me? 

FYI - Between trying to keep my rpms a tiny bit lower and the zip ties, I've increased my mpg by about 5. I still got a lil ways to go before I'm hitting the 36 mpg's that my friend was getting. I would appreciate knowing how to get there, even if it's getting a new caliper. ..and I'll be polite about it too!


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

mwysienski said:


> I feel like I'm talking to myself. ...and about the price of the book that will say the same thing that I've read a 100 times before making this thread, no it is not. Stop riding Bentley. I've seen you post that over and over. Everybody here is looking for help or advice one way or another, not to hear your suggestion for online purchases.
> 
> Anybody have something constructive to say without the need to insult me?
> 
> FYI - Between trying to keep my rpms a tiny bit lower and the zip ties, I've increased my mpg by about 5. I still got a lil ways to go before I'm hitting the 36 mpg's that my friend was getting. I would appreciate knowing how to get there, even if it's getting a new caliper. ..and I'll be polite about it too!


 
If you are going to continue to post questions without taking the time to Search, and refer to the Bentley (where you could find the answer yourself) before posting, then you will continue to receive answers like mine. Lots of people respond with the same advice to buy a Bentley. 

The truth hurts doesn't it? The facts are: you still don't own a Bentley, and you don't understand how VW brakes work, so you keep posting duplicate questions that could easily be answered by using the Search Function. 

Where's the insult? These are facts in evidence.


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## mwysienski (Apr 5, 2011)

You're an A**hole. That's a fact and the evidence is above. So you're saying, there's no point to go on this forum... You hear that advertisers?!? If that stupid book had all the answers, why would anybody need a forum? 

So Mr. Knowitall, please stop replying to anything I write. I do not wish to know what you are thinking at any time. Thank you. 

I'm not on here to battle with a whinny bitchy menstrual cycle. If you don't have any intent on helping me, please just don't reply. That sounds pretty easy doesn't it? Give it a try buddy.


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## OddJobb (Nov 6, 2004)

mwysienski said:


> I feel like I'm talking to myself. ...and about the price of the book that will say the same thing that I've read a 100 times before making this thread, no it is not. Stop riding Bentley. I've seen you post that over and over. Everybody here is looking for help or advice one way or another, not to hear your suggestion for online purchases.
> 
> Anybody have something constructive to say without the need to insult me?
> 
> FYI - Between trying to keep my rpms a tiny bit lower and the zip ties, I've increased my mpg by about 5. I still got a lil ways to go before I'm hitting the 36 mpg's that my friend was getting. I would appreciate knowing how to get there, even if it's getting a new caliper. ..and I'll be polite about it too!


 Simply keeping your RPMs a bit lower may be giving you the better MPGs and not the brake fix. 36 MPGs is absolutely incredible from an MKIII. At best I've been able to pull off 34 MPGs, and I get a bit over 400 miles per tank on a regular basis. 

I had a similar rear brake drag issue when I converted my drums to disc. The only way I could get the rears to stop dragging was to adjust the parking brake cable equalizer bracket where it is almost floppy loose. However, the brakes engage in 3 clicks like they are supposed to.


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## mwysienski (Apr 5, 2011)

Yeeeeaaaaa, my cables are loosened up under the center console. They're floppy, like you said...aaannnddd both cable are brand new. So I really think that I'm gunna have to get a rebuilt caliper. I was hoping that somebody was going to know of the "secret special way" to find that sweet spot in the caliper where they stop pushing the pads onto the rotors. Guess not... 

I haven't used my parking brake in a week now. I don't think there has been any change. It could be that not enough time has gone by to make a difference in the brake clearance...but it sucks pretending that you dont have an e-brake. In the end it doesn't solve the problem anyway. 

OddJobb, was your mpg hurting when you had that drag...or did you not ride around with that problem?


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## OddJobb (Nov 6, 2004)

I simply adjusted the parking brake cables on mine and the issue went away. I didn't drive around with it like that for long, nor did I calculate MPGs. 

Does this car have ABS, or do you have the proportioning valve on the rear beam?


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## mwysienski (Apr 5, 2011)

There's no sensors on the brake pads (at the parts store they had them with or without sensors). So I've been assuming that there's no ABS. I never looked around for the proportioning valve. 

I haven't used my parking brake yet, and I think I'm starting to see a difference when pulling up to a stop. I know I shouldn't keep avoiding it, but I think that shows that the cables and levers (on the back of the caliper) are not to blame for my drag...I think.

I'm pretty resolute on just getting a new caliper, but its so god dam hot out. I'm dreading actually doing it.

Speaking of proportioning valves...did you change yours during the conversion? ...n why did you want to get rid of the drums to begin with?


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## OddJobb (Nov 6, 2004)

I believe the sensor for the pads is only on the front driver side brake pad if you have ABS. 

To see if you have a rear brake proportioning valve, look under the car on the rear beam on the driver side. If you have one you'll see a square block on a spring type mechanism with 4 brake lines connected to it. 2 come from the master cylinder in the engine compartment and the other 2 go the rear calipers. The proportioning valve reduces the pressure to the rear brakes during a hard stop to prevent rear wheel lock up that may cause the car to lose contol. If there's a problem with this device it could cause rear brake issues.

Although there is a proportioning valve for rear drums and another for rear disc brakes, I did not change my proportioning valve. It is possible to adjust it, and I did this instead. If you have not tried to adjust it, it may bad and stuck open allowing more brake pressure to go to the rears causing what you feel during a stop.

I changed to rear discs because I HATE drum brakes. It's a headache to change brake shoes and I had 3 wheel cylinders fail in a year (which leaked fluid on my new WHITE wheels staining them). Plus the discs seem to provide better braking in the rear, which I wanted.


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## mwysienski (Apr 5, 2011)

hmmm... I'll check that out after this ridiculous heat wave. I think I still see a rebuilt caliper in my future. Oh well, not really a big deal compared to the new tranny and clutch.

Yea, I don't think anybody likes drums. My last car probably had the worst case of undefinable shakiness in brake history. I replaced everything except the master cylinder and brake lines. In the end I was forced to chalk it up to a ghost living in the drum...


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## Oldschoolwax (Mar 16, 2006)

Late to the party, but on the mileage issue, that may be due to the use of E10 gasoline. before it was used widely here on the Eastern US I used to get 300 miles per tank in NY and about 440+ per tank if I filled up in Virginia without the ethanol additive. Seems like you have the brakes sorted by now, just wanted to add this, should you not see a per tank mileage increase and are running e10.


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