# DIY - Vac Leak Test - Find Vacuum Leaks



## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

I posted this in the Golf/Jetta Forum as well bc some of them dont venture to the 1.8T side of things. So hopefully this may help some of you.
Well basically I have been having troubles with the dub... Back n forth to dealers, various people checking it out, all in all erratic idles, and occasional lean codes. Well we all know most likely a vac leak. So i finally got tired of it and figured out a way to go about and attempt to solve my problems. I tried everything i knew n heard of about vac leaks from fogging with a flammable substance to just oldschool grab n wiggle. Well this is what i came up with. For a more permant solution go to HD or Lowes and get 2.5 Conduit pipe and find a PVC pipe cap that will slide in and pipe glue it together) Also i recommend not pressurizing the MAF like i did just go around it, remove it and go on the TIP. 

*I have since changed the below requirements to a PVC pipe and plug cap for a more suitable solution. I have made three sizes, 1.8t, TT/VR6 and one for my Truck* 


Materials:
1 Drill
2 Drill Bits (1 as pilot hole, 2nd size of Air Fitting)
1 dogfood or soup can (clean and roughly the size of the MAF)
1 Transition coupler (Most of us have intakes so there you go)
1 Air hose fitting
1 Nut to thread on Air hose fitting
2 rubber washers
3" Thread tape
1 Air compressor / Bike pump
X feet of Air line to reach from pump to MAF
Directions
1. Take the can and drill a hole in it on the bottom. Now take and smooth the rough edges flat, wash the can to dispose of any left over shavings (becareful can might be sharp)









2.Now place rubber washer on air fitting, thread tape the fitting and screw it into the bottom of the can. Take the nut and the other rubber. Place the rubber washer on the inside of the can on the Air Fitting Threads. Now tighten down.








3. Now place the transition coupler over the can, tighten hose clamp. Now take the can w/ coupler and attach to the MAF or if you removed the MAF (recommended) Place it in the TIP and Tighten clamp. 








4. Most Aircompressors have two guages. One for the Tank pressure and the other for line pressure. 








5.Turn the line pressure down to zero if the tank is already full. If its empty turn it all the way down and go ahead and start charging the compressor.








6.Now attach air hose to the can with the fitting. By now your tank should have some air in it. Turn it to about 10-15psi (Most AC gauges go about 15lbs as their lowest reading, so by now hopefully you have a Boost Gauge in car) go check your gauge. At about 10-15lbs you should hear your leaks i heard mine at 10.








7. Find/Found Vac Leaks Decompress, fix problem, Refill fix other problems if you have more then one leak, decompress and fill again till no leaks are found... PLEASE make sure you decompress before you attempt to fix a line or you could poke your eye out kid... This is what i came up with.








Well i hope this helps atleast a little. At 20lbs the PCV tends to blow oil into the intake and the oil cap tends to leak air also so try not to go that high... Im sure there is a way to cap the PCV side so not to recirc some oil (As if the car was running) back into the intake runner. As it does for emmision purposes. My car idles awesome again, starts great now, runs great, boost excellant, and pulls 19" of vac at idle and 21 on decel now.
Also as always: I nor VWVortex take any responsibilities for injuries to yourself, dub, or bystands wondering why the **** your giving your car a *******.

















_Modified by theswoleguy at 9:33 AM 11-22-2006_


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## djpj06 (Jul 12, 2005)

*Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (theswoleguy)*

great set up. looks a lot like the vag tool. the vag tool comes with a plug that you install into the intake boot in place of the pvc....so no gurgling


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## GiacGti (Aug 11, 2005)

*Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (djpj06)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

its nice to see people do productive things.


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## TurboZen (Oct 15, 2000)

*Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (djpj06)*


_Quote, originally posted by *djpj06* »_great set up. looks a lot like the vag tool. the vag tool comes with a plug that you install into the intake boot in place of the pvc....so no gurgling









can use a hose clamp as well to stop it from leaking. good pics.


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## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (TurboZen)*

Added to FAQ's in the DYI section http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## JacksSmirkingRevenge (Mar 31, 2002)

*Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (Boostin20v)*

May I suggest adding Chris' as well.
pressure testing your intake


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## beachball6 (Apr 22, 2003)

wanna take a road trip to tx? ill let you do further testing on my car.


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## Smokey the Bandit (May 19, 2005)

*Re: (beachball6)*

egh, I need to pressure test my setup once its all back together, but damn, just got rid of all the intake piping, and slap'd a k&n right on the turbo.... looks like its goin back on. good write up though http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## transient_analysis (Jan 28, 2003)

people keep calling this type of test a "vac test", but when in reality it's a "pressure test"
Does anyone know how to actually do a "vac test"? Is there anything that would be found by a vac test that wouldn't be found by a pressure test?
Funny true story (and related).. 
A trucker chick (yes.. chick) stoped at friends lumberyard early one morning to drop off a load of wood. After scaring off the yard guys with her foul odors, she went to her cab, pulled a can of cat food from the floor and preceded to eat the thing with a plastic spoon..
That's one way to clean the inside of a can for this project


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

_Quote, originally posted by *transient_analysis* »_people keep calling this type of test a "vac test", but when in reality it's a "pressure test"
Does anyone know how to actually do a "vac test"? Is there anything that would be found by a vac test that wouldn't be found by a pressure test?
Funny true story (and related).. 
A trucker chick (yes.. chick) stoped at friends lumberyard early one morning to drop off a load of wood. After scaring off the yard guys with her foul odors, she went to her cab, pulled a can of cat food from the floor and preceded to eat the thing with a plastic spoon..
That's one way to clean the inside of a can for this project









im sure if you have a vac leak this pressure test will find it, doin the same thing just with boost, some vac leaks seal under decel, and off set by boost, thus is why its usually really noticable at idle where its more ambient pressure and the hole(s) opens up. O yea and quiet disgusting. lol i say just wash it out lol


_Modified by theswoleguy at 8:29 PM 7-3-2006_


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## krzys84 (Sep 3, 2004)

im going to have to do this soon.


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## briang (Mar 10, 1999)

*Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (theswoleguy)*

Ingenious! This post should be a sticky.


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## rep ny (May 27, 2005)

*Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (JacksSmirkingRevenge)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JacksSmirkingRevenge* »_May I suggest adding Chris' as well.
pressure testing your intake

i used this method and it works great also http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## MightyDSM (Apr 16, 2006)

*Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (rep ny)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rep ny* »_
i used this method and it works great also http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Great write up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Just to add some info, when I did the boost leak test on my DSM some time ago, I used a piece of pvc pipe and put a valve from a tire on top and sealed it with JB Weld. I like the idea with can too, would never think of it








A question thou, are you sure it's a good thing to pump it up to 15 psi?


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## GTI MK4 (Dec 16, 2007)

*Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (theswoleguy)*

great write up i will try that out but on another note i was wondering if you could send me a list of your upgrades i like the idea that your still useing a ko3 and geting that much whp and im sick of being wasted by sti's and evo's it seems like every new sports car has more then 250 hp even the new cobalt ss so 200 whp just aint going to cut it any more so if you have a chance hit me back i could use another 60 horses and i would like to have a set up that has been tried and tested 
thanks


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (GTI MK4)*








stis and evos will still be hard to press on, i crept on a newer body sti about two weeks ago, license plate V8Killa. There still fast. I will be going big turbo this was just buyin time. 
**My turbo is well ragged out well beyond past its efficiency. 

With that disclaimer ill tell you all you want to know


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## the brit (Jun 23, 2003)

*Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (theswoleguy)*

This thread was recommended to me by a VW Tech http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Looks like i'll be trying this is a few days.


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## ColoradoSoul03 (Sep 14, 2006)

*Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (the brit)*

The way to cap the PCV system so you don't blow air into the crankcase is to pull the little black check valve out of the TIP and plug it with something, just leave the valve aside. This is the only place (unless you have leaking rings, valve guides, etc.) that pressure will go into the crankcase.


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## stevemannn (Apr 17, 2008)

*Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (ColoradoSoul03)*

you do realize this is from 2006
and its in the faq right?


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## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

U should make these dog cans and ship them lol....
make some money off of them!
sounds good


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## ockey53 (Nov 10, 2008)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

watched, great write up!


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## yasuep (Jan 18, 2006)

*odd result*

Thanks for the great DIY. I managed to copy the idea with some junk I had lying about. Put about 3~5 psi on the intake. Immediately heard a large leak, and started to search. Oddly, it was the cam shaft plug (rubber) in the end of the cam cover that was missing. The air was rushing out from the hole. Would a missing cam cover plug cause several CEL, such as 17705 or 17545 ? I also experienced







the occassional difficulty in getting the SAI readiness to set.
EP


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## brookrock (Sep 17, 2004)

*Re: (transient_analysis)*

nice job http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## interceptorvfr (Jun 25, 2009)

You guys please help i did this yesterday and when i started the car it was smoking like crazy (oil) after driving for a while it has slowed down alot but still smells like oil burning and slightly smoking.....please help.....i only went to 12psi on the comp....04 jetta gli


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (interceptorvfr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *interceptorvfr* »_You guys please help i did this yesterday and when i started the car it was smoking like crazy (oil) after driving for a while it has slowed down alot but still smells like oil burning and slightly smoking.....please help.....i only went to 12psi on the comp....04 jetta gli 

You pressurized the PCV system and oiled the inside of your intake manifold as a result. The black round piece near your DV (PRV or UFO or hockeypuck) will let air into the PCV lines, then from there it will go into the block, head, and of course the PCV valve itself and into the intake manifold. The oil will clear out- but you can retest with the hose pinched or just cap it off.
And this thread is older than my grandmother's pet dinosaur.


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## interceptorvfr (Jun 25, 2009)

But how long will this take to clear out i mean i drove it like 45 miles and its still smoking.... and the worst part is that i didnt even find a vac leak and my car still runs like garbage


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (interceptorvfr)*

Well figure all the crap inside the hoses and the hockeypuck went into the intake valves and coated the manifold.... and prolly got all over the O2 sensors too.


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## interceptorvfr (Jun 25, 2009)

awesome thats perfect haha well i guess i will just take the exhaust off and clean it out...what do you think about spraying carb cleaner or starter fluid into manifold


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (interceptorvfr)*

Don't bother with either. If it still smokes after 100 miles more you might need hoses, a new PCV and/or PRV. Or just do a catch can and save half that money.


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_Don't bother with either. If it still smokes after 100 miles more you might need hoses, a new PCV and/or PRV. Or just do a catch can and save half that money.


x2 usually smokes for a few minutes and clears, after i figured out what it was i just started plugging it, but i also have a CC

_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_
And this thread is older than my grandmother's pet dinosaur.










and wow almost 3 years.


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## Nevaeh_Speed (Jul 9, 2004)

A+ diy


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## aadosx (Aug 24, 2008)

*Re: (Nevaeh_Speed)*

Ok well I just tried this and have some questions.
First of all, it took me a few trips to some hardware stores to get the stuff.. there wasn't a nut that fit on the air compressor fitting in the hardware isle.. I ended up having to find some weird hose fittings.

Also while doing it.. the thing did pop off once and scared the sh*t out of me! It flew right past my face too.. man I'm lucky.
Anyways, I've found a few leaks so far: where the brake booster connects to the side of the intake manifold; a cap I have on an intake manifold port, under the intake mani, that some old PCV stuff was originally connected to; the FPR line is leaking at the FPR; and also a small hose branching off of the TIP was leaking.
Now that I have all of those fixed though.. I am still hearing a lot of noise coming from behind the engine, near the turbo... but I cannot find/feel a leak to save my life! Is it possible that it's just air running through all of those lines back there?
Another thing: Whenever I would pressurize my system, i would hear a gulping noise (gulp gulp gulp gulp) coming from in the engine. WTF is that??
Thanks!
John
P.S. Two of my leaks were due to some vacuum system caps that I bought from auto-zone or the like that had just dry rotted. These things are less than a year old.. why do they rot out so fast? I don't want to have to replace them constantly just to not have leaks.. any suggestions?


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: (aadosx)*

the gulping is air going into the PCV system, its ok, will cause some smoking. the other area you hear check with soapy water around the tip theres a hose that plugs on that leaks sometimes too


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## aadosx (Aug 24, 2008)

*Re: (theswoleguy)*

Hrmm well I plugged the port on the TIP that the PCV system connects too.. I thought that was supposed to prevent that from happening? I didn't have an unusual amount of smoke either.


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## Ld7w_VR (Apr 21, 2006)

*Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (theswoleguy)*

Not the first time seeing this DIY but now I am making one of these to find this dam vacume leak. Great idea http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## crb41 (Aug 2, 2007)

*Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (VR6VDub172)*

what could I use as a transition coupler?


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## Dub-Nub (Sep 27, 2005)

local auto parts store carry silicone couplers that you can use.


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## Oh_My_VR6 (Sep 6, 2004)

*Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (VR6VDub172)*

Has anyone not had their system build any pressure? Granted i'm using a small compressor and a tire valve stem, but after running for 5 mins, it has built 0 pressure. I know my leak isn't THAT bad because it does build at least 10 psi under boost. PCV is blocked, no leaks around the valve stem or anything...scratching my head on this stupid problem..


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## McBee (Aug 11, 2006)

*Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (Oh_My_VR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Oh_My_VR6* »_Has anyone not had their system build any pressure? Granted i'm using a small compressor and a tire valve stem, but after running for 5 mins, it has built 0 pressure. I know my leak isn't THAT bad because it does build at least 10 psi under boost. PCV is blocked, no leaks around the valve stem or anything...scratching my head on this stupid problem..

Is your gauge electronic? My Omari gauges are and require the key to be turned to accessory in order to get a reading.
The tire valve stem might also be your issue. If you have no way to effectively put in and hold pressure, I could imagine the issue you are seeing.
Just a couple ideas http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## oakgreen (Dec 17, 2009)

bump


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (theswoleguy)*

Bump this up, because im sick of spoonfeeding it to everyone


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## dlsolo (Sep 6, 2004)

*FV-QR*

One great thread! 
Once again, thanks for taking the time to spell this out for folks. It doesn't get any easier than this!!!!!
Great job!


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## schwartzA3 (Aug 22, 2006)

*Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (Oh_My_VR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Oh_My_VR6* »_Has anyone not had their system build any pressure? Granted i'm using a small compressor and a tire valve stem, but after running for 5 mins, it has built 0 pressure. I know my leak isn't THAT bad because it does build at least 10 psi under boost. PCV is blocked, no leaks around the valve stem or anything...scratching my head on this stupid problem..

your compressor may not be building up pressure fast enough as the air escapes through the exhaust valves. i tested mine using a bike pump and sealed of the system at the tb.


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## awpturbo (Jan 9, 2009)

*Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (VR6VDub172)*

I have to say it but who ever thought of this idea is a ****in brilliant I am going to go home and make one of these.


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## Sketchykid (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (awpturbo)*

Did this last night! 
FYI a Wine cork is the perfect size to plug the PCV hole in the intake while testing.


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## rgisassi (Apr 25, 2009)

*Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (theswoleguy)*

@thewoleguy
I have a 2001 Jetta Wolfsburg Ed. (1.8T) and I've had a P0171 trouble code. My research tells me that this could be due to a bad MAF sensor or a vacuum leak. A new MAF is a couple hundred dollars so I thought I'd try to see if I had any vacuum leaks before I went the more expensive route.
I decided to follow your way of finding a vacuum leak and it worked fantastic. 






Kudos to you for posting this. I showed this idea to my father, an HVAC guy, and he said we could try pumping some AC coolant (R-22) into it and use a leak detector on it in case the leak was small.




Well, we found two leaks underneath the (I'm not sure what you call it) intake manifold?


One of the hoses had a (I'm not sure what you call it) fireproofing sleeve over it and it was totally broken off.


The other leak was a short piece of hose that T-eed off from a line and connected to the bottom of the intake manifold (again, I think that's what it's called).


Well, that should be the end of my story but as we worked on it, we made things worse.
We proceeded to investigate as to how we were going to work on this. We proceeded to take off the plate that held the broken hosed using an Allen wrench. 

As we pulled off the plate we heard a “snap”. 

and discovered that we broke the oil dipstick line. Damn.

Thanks again, for your help. We'll get it fixed.
QUESTION: The one-time-use fittings (clamps) that are on the car... How do you get them off? Can I replace them with regular hose clamps?
Thanks!

_Modified by rgisassi at 11:44 AM 4-11-2010_

_Modified by rgisassi at 11:46 AM 4-11-2010_
UPDATE: I didn't want to wait on ordering a new dipstick so I devised a way of fixing it. I used an air hose and coupled the broken pieces together. Seems like a tight fit. Are there any issues if it had a leak (which I don't think it will)?



_Modified by rgisassi at 12:43 PM 4-11-2010_


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (rgisassi)*

Use a small thin flat blade screwdriver to undo the clamps, or a knife.. slip it under where the clamp wraps around itself where the barbs lock it together and peel it apart http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## rgisassi (Apr 25, 2009)

*Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*

Thanks! That did the trick. Any suggestions on what to replace it with? It's tough finding hose clamps that small. Would plastic wire ties work?


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (rgisassi)*

no.. just dig until you can find small enough clamps at either home depot racing, or your local auto parts stores


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## McBee (Aug 11, 2006)

*Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (rgisassi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rgisassi* »_Thanks! That did the trick. Any suggestions on what to replace it with? It's tough finding hose clamps that small. Would plastic wire ties work?

I use zip ties (or squeeze clamps) on all my vac lines. More equal clamping and less likely to tear up your vac lines over time.


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (McBee)*


_Quote, originally posted by *McBee* »_
I use zip ties (or squeeze clamps) on all my vac lines. More equal clamping and less likely to tear up your vac lines over time.
 Really??? never had any issues with them?? I didnt think they would hold well enough


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## McBee (Aug 11, 2006)

*Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubinsincuwereindiapers* »_ Really??? never had any issues with them?? I didnt think they would hold well enough

Yep. The small worm clamps I have laying around have drive screws on them that are longer or close to the same length as the diameter of the vac hose. This ends up pinching more than equally clamping. And I find worm clamps will chew into the rubber hoses over a period of time. Boost gauge, FPR, N112, DV, etc are all secured using zip ties. Haven't had a problem.


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## geoff_in_a_jetta (Dec 1, 2008)

did this DIY yesterday, and it worked amazing, pushed air through the entire system. only thing is that i heard the air in the dog can more than my leaks, how did you isolate the leak noises?


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: Got Vac Leaks = Solution (McBee)*

I also use zip ties (quality ones) here and there. I've even used large ones for CV boots on my old tacoma that got beat on every weekend with no issues. Rocks, mud, sand, etc never budged the zip tie. And I had spares in the truck in case it did. The original clamp failed offroading one day and I never went back. Zip ties can be amazingly helpful.


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (geoff_in_a_jetta)*

Spray soapy water on the lines and look for bubbles. You will really have to get creative for the hidden lines, using a mirror. Espeically check all the connections, that's usually where the leaks begin.


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## geoff_in_a_jetta (Dec 1, 2008)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

will do. have a boost leak bad enough to stall out my car now i think. an error code came up for my impulse sender for a day then disappeared the day after, so im thinking there is a few monster leaks that my noob ears just cant pinpoint :-/ thanks for the advice!


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (geoff_in_a_jetta)*

If its that bad, take the passenger front tire off and look at the intercooler connections around the pancake, and the charge pipe to hose connection further behind the motor is prone to fail as well. It clips in....


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*FV-QR*

wow i didnt even know this was still going... sorry it doesnt show up in my watched list lol. glad everyone can benefit from it still. 
If you have a lot of leaks obviously you wont pressurize the system enough luckily i wasnt using a bike pump so my air compressor compensated by adjusting the line pressure knob which should start pointing out leaks pretty quick. Also as mentioned a spray bottle with some water and kitchen soap does wonders.
For small tiny lines i also use zip ties. Bigger lines i use fuel line clamps (i like these more so then worm gears)
For the one time use clamps... tin snips i just cut them off, i gave up on the screw driver approach a long time ago.


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## saltymkiv (Jan 13, 2009)

Sorry for being a noob and resurrecting threads, but could someone point out which PVC line should be clamped? I picture would be highly appreciated


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## elio (Nov 15, 2006)

aadosx said:


> Ok well I just tried this and have some questions.
> First of all, it took me a few trips to some hardware stores to get the stuff.. there wasn't a nut that fit on the air compressor fitting in the hardware isle.. I ended up having to find some weird hose fittings.
> 
> Also while doing it.. the thing did pop off once and scared the sh*t out of me! It flew right past my face too.. man I'm lucky.
> ...


 Hi John you have explained very well my case. So the "gulp gulp gulp" sound is air entering the PCV system. But I had pluged when it port at TIP when I do the test, is that normal? I have a catch can too. Also I notice a big "pssssssttttttt" low pitched noise behind the engine, turbo, DV or N75 area, do you think that the metal TIP part that goes into the turbo inlet or it associated hose can leak that way? or what else in that area could be? it leak more or less 1psi/sec. Also I test up to 5psi max I don't want to go further after check it. Then friends and theswoleguy I appreciatte your advice.


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## The Grizz (Sep 1, 2009)

excellent work here.


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## elio (Nov 15, 2006)

elio said:


> Hi John you have explained very well my case. So the "gulp gulp gulp" sound is air entering the PCV system. But I had pluged when it port at TIP when I do the test, is that normal? I have a catch can too. Also I notice a big "pssssssttttttt" low pitched noise behind the engine, turbo, DV or N75 area, do you think that the metal TIP part that goes into the turbo inlet or it associated hose can leak that way? or what else in that area could be? it leak more or less 1psi/sec. Also I test up to 5psi max I don't want to go further after check it. Then friends and theswoleguy I appreciatte your advice.


Friends I repeat the leak test with a big plug at end of hose that go from intercooler to throttle body. That way I don't find any sound at all, I can reach 10psi easily, and it loose pressure something like 0,25psi/sec maybe less. The only sound that remains there was the little "gulp gulp gulp" one, but having block the TB inlet hose, I doubt that this sound could be PCV related.  What do you think?????


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## VENT0GT (Sep 15, 2009)

bump for a great diy!:beer::beer:


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## EK33 (Jun 30, 2011)

would a vac leak cause a jump in the or drop in the engine speed when you are speeding up? My GTi seems to lung some times at low speeds/rpm's but the idle is fine. It's almost like a water in the gas feal. any one have any idea's


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

These are very nice clamps for small diameter hoses

http://www.mcmaster.com/#hose-and-tube-clamps/=cyyq9n










http://www.mcmaster.com/#hose-clamps/=cyyrga


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## bskurk24 (Jun 28, 2011)

goin to try this asap, i need to fix my carr:facepalm:


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## eurosportbora (Feb 26, 2003)

so even if you remove and cap off the hockey puck aka ufo you still will get the gulp gulp gulp sound?


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## dubluv2003 (Oct 22, 2010)

This has been added to my favorites. :thumbup:


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## 972SLOW (Feb 14, 2011)

bump

gulp gulp issue: just to clerify for you people the reason your still getting this noise with your pcv lines blocked is because the check valve under the intake manifold (in your pcv line) is shot. Cheap simple fix and you wont have that noise anymore as well as one less leak in the system.


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## eurosportbora (Feb 26, 2003)

Is #6 the check valve you are referring to?


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## 972SLOW (Feb 14, 2011)

indeed it is. If replacing it though you might want to order the hose from 034 as chances are high that you will brake the stock one. http://www.034motorsport.com/engine...-lower-block-breather-06a06b-18t-p-19986.html


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## DUBEDVW (Jul 19, 2011)

+1 for the HVAC guy thats what i am going to school for haha:thumbup:


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## deltaP (Jul 26, 2011)

bump


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## deltaP (Jul 26, 2011)

eurosportbora said:


> Is #6 the check valve you are referring to?


Would you happen to have this same picture and part numbers for a 225Q BEA engine?:beer:


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Up for the n00b's:thumbup:


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

:thumbup:


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> :thumbup:


 :thumbup::thumbup:


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## rains (May 30, 2008)

not sure if I've posted in this thread before, but thanks again! 

After installing my FMIC, and being terrible unimpressed with my performance, and wondering what the hell the whistling was when I hit 18 PSI, this thread has solved all my problems. 

Cheers!


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## matty675 (Oct 2, 2011)

Not sure if anyone has ever made note of this, but you MUST visually inspect and wiggle the brake booster line to check for leaks!

It has a check valve which I beleive prevents the pressure from entering any lines after the valve.

Someone correct me of I'm wrong.


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## matty675 (Oct 2, 2011)

when I remove my pcv valve from the TIP, and put a plug in the hole and pressurize the system, I still get gurgling. 

I guess the check valve in the pcv line is bad, but where is it and how do I access it?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

matty675 said:


> when I remove my pcv valve from the TIP, and put a plug in the hole and pressurize the system, I still get gurgling.
> 
> I guess the check valve in the pcv line is bad, but where is it and how do I access it?


 There's a y-hose coming off the block breather. So, it's down under the intake mani


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## geslo (May 19, 2010)

matty675 said:


> when I remove my pcv valve from the TIP, and put a plug in the hole and pressurize the system, I still get gurgling.
> 
> I guess the check valve in the pcv line is bad, but where is it and how do I access it?


 I even get the "gurgling" with a new PCV valve, any ideas what could it be?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

geslo said:


> I even get the "gurgling" with a new PCV valve, any ideas what could it be?


 You have to clamp off the pcv hose when you do the test


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## gchaifoux (Jan 9, 2010)

need to ask....TIP = turbo intake pipe??
thanks!



theswoleguy said:


> I posted this in the Golf/Jetta Forum as well bc some of them dont venture to the 1.8T side of things. So hopefully this may help some of you.
> Well basically I have been having troubles with the dub... Back n forth to dealers, various people checking it out, all in all erratic idles, and occasional lean codes. Well we all know most likely a vac leak. So i finally got tired of it and figured out a way to go about and attempt to solve my problems. I tried everything i knew n heard of about vac leaks from fogging with a flammable substance to just oldschool grab n wiggle. Well this is what i came up with. For a more permant solution go to HD or Lowes and get 2.5 Conduit pipe and find a PVC pipe cap that will slide in and pipe glue it together) Also i recommend not pressurizing the MAF like i did just go around it, remove it and go on the TIP.
> 
> *I have since changed the below requirements to a PVC pipe and plug cap for a more suitable solution. I have made three sizes, 1.8t, TT/VR6 and one for my Truck*
> ...


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

gchaifoux said:


> need to ask....TIP = turbo intake pipe??
> thanks!


Yes

The FAQ has a great list of abbreviations too


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## gchaifoux (Jan 9, 2010)

thanks man!



groggory said:


> Yes
> 
> The FAQ has a great list of abbreviations too


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## gchaifoux (Jan 9, 2010)

*1st attempt at the DIY pressure test*

Successfully ran the pressure test.

couple of questions;

1. the only leak I was able to locate was the hose connected to the top of the diverter valve which I will seal with a small clamp today. I found it by way of spraying the soapy water around and notice the large bubble growing on the top of the DVV.

2. I turned the pressure up to around 10lbs....didn't want to push it to high being my 1st time doing this. I heard a hissss and noticed a little motor oil seeping out from the edges of the top of the oil filler cap. ?? is this ok...given the pressure? or should that cap be 100% sealed under pressure?

side from those to small items, I didn't detect any leaks anywhere else....

your thoughts? / suggestions are welcome....

next up is replacing the N75 ( as the car will not hold turbo boost) and coil packs (car is idling and running rough)


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## jogtx16v (Dec 15, 2007)

gchaifoux said:


> Successfully ran the pressure test.
> 
> couple of questions;
> 
> ...


clamp off the pcv hose for the pressure test. you dont want let the air goes into the crankcase


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## gchaifoux (Jan 9, 2010)

thanks, will be doing this as well.



jogtx16v said:


> clamp off the pcv hose for the pressure test. you dont want let the air goes into the crankcase


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Decent little video by Eric the car guy on how to find a vac leak. I think many people could benefit from watching his videos, They cover many, many things we talk about here.

Here's the video


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## dubluv2003 (Oct 22, 2010)

Would it be ideal to perform this test after draining oil for an oil change? This way no oil can circulate into the system?


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

still using this years later lol...just upgraded the CAN to PVC. Used it on the ecoboost yesterday
















*Found the leak*


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

Haha..You have no idea how many times I have posted this link for people..lol:thumbup::beer:


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## pGLi (Apr 28, 2009)

bump to subscribe and bring this to the top... looks like an extremely helpful DIY that i can't wait to do _in a few weeks_ :thumbup::thumbup:


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

Twopnt016v said:


> Haha..You have no idea how many times I have posted this link for people..lol:thumbup::beer:


X2

I stress the importance of this to everyone I deal with:beer:


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

lol :wave: hi guys


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## scousa (Aug 16, 2007)

Hi - and thanks!

Tin Can + Schrader valve + Wine cork + your writeup = helps me A LOT

:beer:

Remove airbox/maf housing.
Insert Tin can with schrader valve into tip and tighten clamp.
loosen clamp and Pull PRV out of tip.
insert wine cork + tighten clamp back down
Remove oil cap.
Turn compressor up to 20 psi or so
Fill 'er up and keep an eye on boost gauge
spray soapy water
fix leaks

drive it!


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

Lol glad to help

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


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## gitman (May 13, 2004)

a little confused about some of the conflicting information here. i'll try to sum up what i've read...

seems the general consensus is to plug the PCV port at the TIP. however some people still say they are getting the gurgling. one guy says this has to do with a check valve on the PCV line - but how could that be, if the PCV line has been disconnected from the TIP? someone followed up to say that they replaced the check valve and still got the gurgling sound. 

another poster says that the only other way air would be getting into the crankcase (besides via PCV) is if you have bad rings / valve guides / etc. so does that mean the folks with the blocked off PCV who are still getting the gurgling should probably also do a compression test? does it seem likely that these folks all have major issues like bad rings? i would seem to think not, so is there possibly another source for crankcase pressure to build up?

also i don't think anyone definitively answered if the oil cap should leak? why would one have to remove it at all?


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## Sycoticmynd29 (Jan 17, 2011)

gitman said:


> a little confused about some of the conflicting information here. i'll try to sum up what i've read...
> 
> seems the general consensus is to plug the PCV port at the TIP. however some people still say they are getting the gurgling. one guy says this has to do with a check valve on the PCV line - but how could that be, if the PCV line has been disconnected from the TIP? someone followed up to say that they replaced the check valve and still got the gurgling sound.
> 
> ...


Might be hard to see, but there is another connection from the Intake Manifold to the PCV System:









This line is the line with the PCV valve.

The Line from the TIP has the PRV (Hockey Puck)

So blocking the line from the TIP is only one of the connections to the PCV system, and if your PCV valve is bad, it is allowing air flow both directions.

The question I have is if any of the people with the gurgling have checked for Oil in the intercooler.


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## gitman (May 13, 2004)

EDIT: OK i see what you mean. its the line coming off #19 that goes from the intake manifold to the main breather tube.


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## Jtpython (Oct 3, 2013)

Would there be any issues or differences in using this on a 2.0?


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## OEM+Mark4 (Feb 11, 2013)

I don't see why there would be. 

All engines are basically the same thing. Just a big pump.


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## Jtpython (Oct 3, 2013)

That's what I figured, I was just making sure no one knew of any compelling reasons not to use this method.


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

This method is perfect for all engines; heck I use it in my Chevy truck 


*Text for orders and customer support 24/7 908-259-4860*


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## Jtpython (Oct 3, 2013)

Awesome! Thanks for the input, I wouldn't want to make the issue any worse or anything. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk


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## OEM+Mark4 (Feb 11, 2013)

Jtpython said:


> Awesome! Thanks for the input, I wouldn't want to make the issue any worse or anything.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk


I hear that it's always better to be safe then sorry.


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## kkbturbo (Aug 6, 2013)

*addition to the pressure leak test method.*

i haven't done this but am sure you could install an air hose quick disconnect fitting into your vac system so anytime you want to check for leaks you could hook up a pressure gauge to see how well the vac system holds pressure

i also realize this is a very old thread


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## kkbturbo (Aug 6, 2013)

i guess a boost gauge does the same thing my bad


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

kkbturbo said:


> i guess a boost gauge does the same thing my bad


Nope.

This is a PRESSURE TEST. You need to pressurize the system in order to find the leaks. In order to pressurize the system you have to (at a minimum) cap off your TIP.


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## WilboBaggins (Mar 16, 2012)

Bumping from the dead, but if I'm too lazy to make one myself, anyone have any opinion on the following link which is basically the same thing by SilicioneIntakes.com for $30?

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/intake-leak-pressure-tester/?osCsid=629139f863a76343c42ec55d1cecaa66


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