# what clutch are the high hp 16vt using



## ewillard (Apr 21, 2007)

I'm finishing up my build been having some issues picking a clutch I'm shooting for 600whp on the dyno then I'm going to turn the boost down to run about 300whp on the street. But I'm also going to drag the car sometimes. So the clutch needs to hold up. I wanna see what ppl are useing


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## ewillard (Apr 21, 2007)

Up


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## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

reality..... the clutch is going to be easy to find. it'll depend on how much you want to pay and how much driveability you are willing to sacrifice. however, the real problem, is going to be getting your tranny to hold.


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## ewillard (Apr 21, 2007)

Drivability is not really an issue. I would rather have good the clutch hold my power and have good life. I been trying to See if Sachs makes somthing that would work but the only ones I found is the Sachs power clutch that only hold 320ft lbs tq. And I can't figure out how to find a Sachs multi disc clutch that will work


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## sp_golf (Nov 28, 2007)

How much torque? that's what you should be looking at. Get a clutchmaster FX725 if you want a twin disk.
And for god sakes stay away from Spec Clutches.


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## ewillard (Apr 21, 2007)

I'll never buy spec. Clutchmasters or Sachs is all ill buy I really want Sachs but I can't find any one that sells there multi disc clutchs


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## Norwegian-VR6 (Feb 6, 2002)

600whp 16vt  It all depends if you have 02m or 02a? 600whp is not a cheap build, so If you have 02m, get a Clutchmasters fx 850 twindisc and be done with it. You can get cheaper things, but a twindisc Sachs is way over the fx850. If you have a 02a, it looks like there is a ton off clutches that holds the power better than the gears, Like the cheap Clutchnet red pp with a 6 or 4 puck disc.


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

Norwegian-VR6 said:


> If you have 02m, get a Clutchmasters fx 850 twindisc and be done with it.


You say that like it's cheap. 

600whp is a very tall order. You're gonna need ALOT of boost. Can we get a more detailed rundown of the setup. opcorn:


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## ewillard (Apr 21, 2007)

The motor is a ABF replica so the 159mm rods
Obd 1 ABA 2L block 
82.5mm wosner pistons 9:1 comp ratio 
Scat rods 159mm with 21mm wrist pins
86lbs holy injectors 
Autotech sport cams and high rev springs light weight lifters
Head p&p 
Ms 2 3.57 board 
Gizmo boost contoler 
Gt35r turbo with .63 hot side 
38mm tial wastegate 
Bbm ss log manifold 
3" turbo back exhaust 
Turbosmart raceport bov 52mm 
3" boost tubes and awic set up with 750hp core 
Wavtrac diff in a o2a trans code is ctn (diesel trans)
Stage 3 das axles
Bosh 044 in a IE surge tank full stainless steal lines tank to bay all -6an 
Arp hardware through out motor 

There's more but that's most of it


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

500hp...TOPS. There are setups here with far more stuff making less then 600hp.


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## syracusegli (Jan 22, 2005)

that much power with FWD is going to be useless. anything over 400 really. get AWD and not syncro


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## ewillard (Apr 21, 2007)

Haldex is a later project. I just want to beable to drive my car again. And I would be happy with 500 buy I'd rather aim high then low


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## Fast929 (Nov 13, 2004)

Capt.Dreadz said:


> 500hp...TOPS. There are setups here with far more stuff making less then 600hp.


Hahahaha.... Didn't Paul (killa) make 500whp on a stock bottom end 2L 16v with GT3582 (rods and pistons).... It's more the combination and tuning than what's inside. This is exactly why the VW community is lagging so far behind with regards to making power.


I think 600whp is doable with a solid head to support. Not sure autotec cams will support that power level but might. Again, i think Paul made 500whp on stock 16v cams as well so certainly doable.... You might want to step up the hot side housing to the .82ar though. EBP will be up there and hurt overall performance.


Solid build :thumbup:


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## ewillard (Apr 21, 2007)

Thank you for the confidence. Keep an eye on my build thread I'm going to update it soon.


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## ewillard (Apr 21, 2007)

i picked up an fx725 so i should be good on the clutch now. thanks for all the input


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

Just saw this thread, I have the same setup and i have used the Clutchnet 6puc SPRUNG disc for many years of street/dragstrip racing. works great. Sprung Disc due to the weight of the car.
I just bought a new clutch pac after the last disc has been good for 4 years. new one is same disc 2600lbs PP 9lbs billit steel 1 piece flywheel.
:beer::beer:
4 years or wear and tear. 1.9 - 1.8 60' times @ 2950lbs corrado

















BTW it's going to take 1000cc-1200cc inj to make 550-600whp
I maxed the duty cycle on the 860cc inj at 450whp


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

Fast929 said:


> Hahahaha.... Didn't Paul (killa) make 500whp on a stock bottom end 2L 16v with GT3582 (rods and pistons).... It's more the combination and tuning than what's inside. This is exactly why the VW community is lagging so far behind with regards to making power.


ORLY....


lugnuts said:


> Clean "no tire spin" curve, 526 whp @25-27 psi:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Like i and now REPOMAN said, it's not happening.


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## Fast929 (Nov 13, 2004)

Capt.Dreadz said:


> ORLY....
> 
> 
> Like i and now REPOMAN said, it's not happening.




For those that can read - REPOMAN said 840/860/870's whatever they are today, won't support the HP level he's looking at.... Nothing about the motor or this build not supporting it....

And thanks for linking Todds dyno. You proved my point clearly... Stock (read stock) headed 1.8L 16v head (175cfm intake and 150cfm exhaust) running e85 and cams made nearly 600whp back in what, 2008??? No port work. No valves (that I'm aware of), stock on schricks.

Not the post I was looking for but here's Paul (killa) making ~360 on a mild 16v build with a little 3082 (gt30 frame) @ 16psi. Extrapolate that some and your looking at 400whp @ 20psi, Nearly 500 by 30. On a little arse 30r....

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4106480-16-psi-dyno

Now, I didn't say it was going to be easy but, as mentioned in my previous post, with the right supporting head (and obviously fueling), it'll support 600whp which the 35r is capable of making.... It's going to take a little more cam and dependant of head work done....


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## killa (Nov 26, 2000)

Fast929 said:


> For those that can read - REPOMAN said 840/860/870's whatever they are today, won't support the HP level he's looking at.... Nothing about the motor or this build not supporting it....
> 
> And thanks for linking Todds dyno. You proved my point clearly... Stock (read stock) headed 1.8L 16v head (175cfm intake and 150cfm exhaust) running e85 and cams made nearly 600whp back in what, 2008??? No port work. No valves (that I'm aware of), stock on schricks.
> 
> ...


or this one:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-Lightning-4cyl-16v-content&highlight=thunder

the turbo died on the dyno, that's why i didn't keep on tuning, turbo died, nothing to tune.


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## ewillard (Apr 21, 2007)

Well let's see how I do on these injectors ill max them out and see if I'm happy. Should be about 2 weeks or so till its running again


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

Fast929 said:


> For those that can read - REPOMAN said 840/860/870's whatever they are today, won't support the HP level he's looking at.... Nothing about the motor or this build not supporting it....




you got all of that from this....


Capt.Dreadz said:


> 500hp...TOPS. There are setups here with far more stuff making less then 600hp.


WTF did i mention engine. Stuff= different turbo, different inj., different block. i think you need to relax a bit as you read more then was there. It's not that serious. And please, don't insult my intelligence by making it sound like i don't my sh*t. Especially when you have no clue what skill level i'm on. I know what it takes to make power. And i'm not one of those internet talkers. 


@ ewillard,
Sorry for mucking up your thread. Some "people" are premature ejaculators when it comes to posting. :facepalm:


:wave: @ Paul.


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## ewillard (Apr 21, 2007)

Paul its all good. I'm enjoying it. No one IS going to insalt me on here. I like learning what ppl know


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

>>killa 



ewillard said:


> I like learning what ppl know


Be careful with this. There are alotta fugazzi's in here. They talk a good one yet never built a turbo setup in their life. Don't believe me, hangout in the mk2 forum. :laugh:


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## ewillard (Apr 21, 2007)

Haha sry about the mix up.


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

> The motor is a ABF replica so the 159mm rods
> Obd 1 ABA 2L block
> 82.5mm wosner pistons 9:1 comp ratio
> Scat rods 159mm with 21mm wrist pins
> ...


My build is very simular.
The motor is a ABF replica so the 159mm rods
Obd 2 ABA 2L block 
83.5mm JE pistons 8.5:1 comp ratio 
Scat rods 159mm with 21mm wrist pins
86lbs EV14 injectors 
TT sport cams and high rev springs light weight lifters
Head OEM no head work
034efi 1C
halman boost contoler 
Gt3076r turbo with .63 hot side 
38mm tial wastegate 
BBM ss log manifold w/ 80mm T/B
3" turbo back exhaust 
TIAL 50mm BOV
2.5" boost tubes and awic set up with 750hp core 
Quaffie diff in a o2a trans code is CCM VR6
Stage 3 dss axles
Bosh 044 in a 034 surge tank full stainless steal lines tank to bay all -6an 
Arp hardware through out motor 

I made 350whp pump 92 octane @ 20psi 7200rpm
I made 407whp pump 92 octane @ 25psi 7200rpm
I made 458whp pump 92 octane @ 28psi 7200rpm
this year i will make 550-575whp C16 octane @ 35psi 7500-8500rpm
NO head work. I run 4bar FPR on the 864cc inj's and have to move up to the 1000cc at 4bar to make the next 100whp.
:beer::beer:


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## Norwegian-VR6 (Feb 6, 2002)

syracusegli said:


> that much power with FWD is going to be useless. anything over 400 really. get AWD and not syncro


Its alot off fun. And thats is for some people the main thing. Not tracking the car, but have fun on the street and highway passes 
Haldex is something u can build in the future, sure.





Good luck with the FX725. I imagen it will hold better than your gears.


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## ewillard (Apr 21, 2007)

repoman thank you for your post that is is promising for me i should make a little more power at the same boost just cause of the turbo. but thank you for posting your set up. if you got one can you post some pics for me just to get some ideas for boost tubes. thats going to be a pain in the ass. i have a straight through AWIC core so my placement will be a pain specially cause for the size.


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## Fast929 (Nov 13, 2004)

I was mearly pointing out to the OP with proper support his setup could make/support 600whp when it was said 500 was about all it would do. I'm not arguing at all. Just trying to be open minded on setup and support what he's trying to do. No personal attacks at all. No interwebz tough guy. I assure you I understand what it takes to build a balanced powerful package and unlike most who visit here - I look at what works outside of our little VW world and look to see how it can be applied.

Repoman - very impressive numbers on the 58. Setup looks great and really impressive considering a stock head. A little water/meth would really support some more timing/power without going full race fuel. Pretty darn good.

For the OP - I agree with Repoman. Clutchnet sprung 6-puck should support you as the wheel torque shouldn't be too awful on that setup. Its a very solid/proven setup!


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

> Repoman - very impressive numbers on the 58. Setup looks great and really impressive considering a stock head. A little water/meth would really support some more timing/power without going full race fuel. Pretty darn good.


Thanks you are right the timing is conservitive due to octane limits. I have desided to go c16 due to the consistency of the fuel threw out the year and i can keep my fuel system the way it is.
Note on very hot days 90+ degrees 130degrees track temps have to keep the boost under 20psi due to det from a hot motor. 92 octane. this is why i am moving to race gas finally.
I have been looking at my timing curve and it looks like when i move to c16 i will have about +3 more degrees of timing to play with on the dyno when i tune.. 
here are some pics for you to gauge off with your build.


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

Here's some motivation...




1.8L 16V turbo engine. Garrett gtx4202R 1013HP on 61psi and E85 fuel.


Their other car. 650hp. KR head, 1Z Diesel block, 82.5mil pistons, 86.4 stroked crank, 159mil rods, GT4094R,...















Has anyone tried a Sach RCS200


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## sp_golf (Nov 28, 2007)

My 2c.. not gonna make 600, maybe 550 at best. Would like to be proven wrong though :beer:


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## kompressorgolf (Dec 6, 2005)

i run a 16vt in a rabbit, ABA with a 1.8 head, rebuilt but stock block stock head, right about 300 at the moment on
20 psi, i run the spec stage 4+ VR6 setup and love it. i was worried at first, seemed to slip a bit but the it broke
in nicely and has been awesome, stock pedal feel even! Just to make it a bit more cloudy in here haha!


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## Jeebus (Jul 8, 2001)

Mine did 405whp at 20psi... I'd love to see what it would do at 30+psi on c16.

As it's been said.. injectors are not getting you anywhere close to 600whp. 

From my experience with this is aim low... and be happy if you surpass it. Aiming high just leads to disappointment and broken parts.


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## ewillard (Apr 21, 2007)

i would have loved to use a sachs clutch but i couldnt figure out anywhere to buy them or how to order from sachs i sent them 2 emails and never got responses from them. this should be a good week for my build ill get a bunch of pics up by the weekend. motor on tusday along with axles im not sure the status of my clutch but should be here tusday or weds. got to finish up the fuel lines wire the fuel pump. and get the diff in the trans other then that should be like 2.5 weeks till its running


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## bdcoombs (Jul 28, 2002)

does tilton make a twin for o2a or o2m.. or just o1e


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## ewillard (Apr 21, 2007)

not that i could find i was looking for tiltion clutchs also and could find one for the o2a


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## Fast929 (Nov 13, 2004)

I love the sach's stuffs. Just spendy and hard to find a dealer bring them in - specially the twin. 

I saw CM is offering a triple disk now. I think it's Honda plats only at this point but pretty interesting. I bet that baby will sound like marbles flying around in the tranny... lol 

Repoman, love that you built a rado setup. Most just pull them down at this point. Nice build. 

I love those crazy euro's and their 1000whp 16v's. I'm not playing at that level but inspiring non the less. :laugh:


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## sp_golf (Nov 28, 2007)

bdcoombs said:


> does tilton make a twin for o2a or o2m.. or just o1e


 I think you need a Lugtronic clutch :laugh::laugh:


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## sp_golf (Nov 28, 2007)

bdcoombs said:


> does tilton make a twin for o2a or o2m.. or just o1e


 Oh and some sp_golf maps for that clutch :laugh:


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## killa (Nov 26, 2000)

REPOMAN said:


> My build is very simular.
> The motor is a ABF replica so the 159mm rods
> Obd 2 ABA 2L block
> 83.5mm JE pistons 8.5:1 comp ratio
> ...


 You need head work, stock 16v head doesn't flow much and you're missing a ton of power by limiting yourself to that head, I loaned my spare head to Todd P (turbodubs) and he picked up a ton of power at the same boost level, the power you make at 28 psi i can probably make at 22 for comparison so do yourself a favor and get a nicely done head. 

My head flows 248cfm on the intake and 180cfm on the exhaust, that's with oversize valves, a stock 1.8 16v head for example will flow 170-175cfm on the intake max and 130 on the exhaust. 

Not trying to argue but would like to see your pressure numbers drop by 5 psi while you make the same power


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## Fast929 (Nov 13, 2004)

killa said:


> You need head work, stock 16v head doesn't flow much and you're missing a ton of power by limiting yourself to that head, I loaned my spare head to Todd P (turbodubs) and he picked up a ton of power at the same boost level, the power you make at 28 psi i can probably make at 22 for comparison so do yourself a favor and get a nicely done head.
> 
> My head flows 248cfm on the intake and 180cfm on the exhaust, that's with oversize valves, a stock 1.8 16v head for example will flow 170-175cfm on the intake max and 130 on the exhaust.
> 
> Not trying to argue but would like to see your pressure numbers drop by 5 psi while you make the same power


 Speaking of which, how's my head???


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## killa (Nov 26, 2000)

Fast929 said:


> Speaking of which, how's my head???


 I dunno, where is it  
Let's get it started though :thumbup:


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## Fast929 (Nov 13, 2004)

killa said:


> I dunno, where is it
> Let's get it started though :thumbup:


 It's time..... :thumbup:


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

Thanks I have been considering head work I just wanted to get the engine sorted out first/up and running good. 
I have had extensive work done to 8v heads in the past. My machinist also does 16v heads here are a few pics of his work, What do you think?


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## killa (Nov 26, 2000)

REPOMAN said:


> Thanks I have been considering head work I just wanted to get the engine sorted out first/up and running good.
> I have had extensive work done to 8v heads in the past. My machinist also does 16v heads here are a few pics of his work, What do you think?


 Looks ok especially the roof but that's not where most of the flow is, i'm assuming that it's well done, put it on a flow bench :thumbup:


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## ewillard (Apr 21, 2007)

got my fx 725 today looks nice only thing is they didnt listen and they gave my 2 ceramic disc i wanted 1 ceramic and one Kevlar. any have one with 2 ceramics hows it drive.


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## ewillard (Apr 21, 2007)

What plugs are yall running


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

I was running the NGK 7 heat range but above 25psi they are too hot so i am moving to the 
NGK 8 heat range this should be good to 600whp. My friend Aaron has a 2.0 20v making 
750AWHP @ 40psi he has moved to the NGK 9 heat range equivalent to Bosch 3.


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## Jeebus (Jul 8, 2001)

I'm running the 8's as well (405whp).


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## ewillard (Apr 21, 2007)

i picked up a set of rc 1000cc inj today


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

Nice, you will defently make the 400-500whp with what you have now. 
I also have a set of 1000cc RC to tune for this year. 
so at 3.8bar fpr on 864cc i hit 85% injector duty cycle at 25psi, you know you want to keep it 
under 80% injector duty cycle for long life of the injectors. 
If you are considering E85 you need 30% more fuel. I have seen a 40% increase of injection swapping from c16 to E85 personnaly on a N/A v6 race engine i tuned on a engine dyno.


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## ewillard (Apr 21, 2007)

Hey repoman what timing belt do u use. I got one that works I think its fron an 04 1.8t. But I don't think its perfect. I got it all together to day and tried to fire it up right before I had to leave the shop and I didn't start I got to check all my ms setings and all the timing tomorrow. I'm also having an issue with my trans it won't let me get in rev 1st or 2nd not sure what that's about. It's a ctn trans out of a mk3 tdi I swaped out all the shift tower parts but its acting up. Should have ic tomorrow hope that's not to hard to plum. I'm supose to have paul (need a vr6) cone down thurs or Fri to get a street tune so I git to finish it up in the next 2days. And it needs aligned


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

I tried the 1.8T 153 tooth belt and didn't like the fit either, I bought the real ABF timing belt from
Techtonicstuning.com 151 tooth fit perfect.
1 2 shift may be a linkage adjustment or maybe since you changed the shift tower assembly
did you change the bottom cap the shift tower rides in. I had this issue when i tried Aarons CDM
transaxle and tried to use my ATA bottom shift tower cap. I.E. the cap with the sleeve bearing
on the bottom of the transaxle. 
:beer::beer:


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## ewillard (Apr 21, 2007)

REPOMAN said:


> I tried the 1.8T 153 tooth belt and didn't like the fit either, I bought the real ABF timing belt from
> Techtonicstuning.com 151 tooth fit perfect.
> 1 2 shift may be a linkage adjustment or maybe since you changed the shift tower assembly
> did you change the bottom cap the shift tower rides in. I had this issue when i tried Aarons CDM
> ...



I'll order the belt and use this one for now. Yes I did swap the bottom shaft cap. I think it might be the down pipe pressing on the shifter cables or I just need to run it and get oil warmed up in it since its fresh rebulit trans.


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## vw_dred (Mar 27, 2002)

ewillard said:


> i picked up an fx725 so i should be good on the clutch now. thanks for all the input


Be sure to check the pedal travel and install a pedal stop if needed. It doesn't take much travel to actuate these clutches and over-extending the them will cause issues. Great choice otherwise:thumbup:


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## ewillard (Apr 21, 2007)

Clutch is working fine the only issue I'm.having is 1at gear is acting odd I can out it in 1st but as soon as I start rolling it starts grinding I think.it just needs cables adjusted but Idk ill play with it tomorrow hopefully get it fixed.


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## ewillard (Apr 21, 2007)

hey repoman or paul got a question. im going for dyno tune thursday cars running great now. but how much timing are yall running. here is a pic of my current ign map you think its to conservitive.


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

Yes looks conservitive.
I would start at no load 
500 rpm -8
1000 rpm -16
2000 rpm -25
3000 rpm -32
4000 rpm -32
5000 rpm -32
6000 rpm -31
7000rpm -32
8000rpm -33
as boost raises 
150kpa -10
200kpa -14
250kpa -16
300kpa -16
so at 6000rpm timing is -31btdc at 20psi of boost -14 = -17BTDC
on pump gas i run -14.5BTDC at 28psi @ 7-8krpm
on Race gas I run -19BTDC at 30psi 7-8krpm
This is a good place to start and dial in MBT on the dyno.... 
if your A/F under boost is 12.2:1 then spend your time dialing in the timing...
Adjust -1 deg across the board from 4k-8k and see if you gain hp or loose hp this will determine 
the direction you need to go. 
:beer::beer:


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## ewillard (Apr 21, 2007)

REPOMAN said:


> Yes looks conservitive.
> I would start at no load
> 500 rpm -8
> 1000 rpm -16
> ...



how dose this look to you 


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

Almost got it. 
Above the 120 pull 5 degrees
160 pull 10 degrees
220 pull 16degrees
280 pull 16 degrees
so at 220 you should be total timing of -15btdc
280 would be -14btdc
this is a safe place to start then dial it up or down as required.
Are you tuning for pump gas? 
how much boost are you going to push?


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## ewillard (Apr 21, 2007)

yeah just pump gas for this tune its the 1st real tune the car is getting i am thinking going all the way to 28psi but im not sure yet well see how it feels on the dyno. hows this look










i pulled another -1 out of 8400rpm after i posted the pic but i dont think ill rev past 7200


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

That looks good for a start. I would shoot for 20psi and see how it is doing.
What kind of I/C are you using? Air to Air will have a pressure loss to factor in and will heat soak.
If it looks good and you dial in the timing at 20psi then bump it to 25psi. I would NOT recomend going above 25psi on pump gas. I hit 28psi but i have a great Liquid intercooler setup... BUT on HOT DAYS It will detonate at that PSI on 92 octane..... so Be careful at 25psi on pump gas.
If you were running VP109 Unleadded then go for 35psi but pump gas will only hold so much.
I would also suggest a colder spark plug for higher boost on pump gas a NGK 8 heat range is the 
equivlent to a Bosch 4-5 heat range OEM G60 plugs re Bosch 6.


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## ewillard (Apr 21, 2007)

I'm running ngk 8. Gapped to .022 I also have Awic. My setup is almost identical to yours I.just gave bigger turbo. And head work done. But ill post dump sheets tomorrow. And probly videos.


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## ewillard (Apr 21, 2007)

Only made 321 at 19psi. Had fueling issues we had to stop. We think intank pump can't keep up so I'm putting walbro 255 in the tank and try again next week


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## ewillard (Apr 21, 2007)

Turned it back.down.to 19psi to.drive around at 308hp till we figure out fueling.


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

Do you have the A/F readings of the dyno pull?
It looks good, I made 350whp at 19psi so you are close.
The 20 year old Intank pump is an issue ask me how i know.lol


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## ewillard (Apr 21, 2007)

Yeah I git data logs for all 17 pulls I can send you a few. What's your email


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## ewillard (Apr 21, 2007)

the duty cycle is rediculas there must me a setting in MS thats wrong


run 13










run 14










run 15










run 16










run 17


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

I can't make out the screen shots.... Duty cycle sould be keept under 80%
I'll IM you my Email adress


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

Data log 17 looks like 
242 KPA = 35 - 14 = 21psi MAP Manifold Air Pressure
A/F looks like 13.5 Way to lean you want 12.2 above 4000rpm in boost above 15psi
I would get it to Idle and off Idle Cruz at 13.5 and making power in boost at 12.2
Duty Cycle looks like 88.3% a little high, What Size injectors? 
Try raising the FPR 
MAT looks like 105.3 celcius thats 221F that is really hot, to hot for 21psi.
I hit 60 celcius at 28psi that's 140F 
you might want to look at the I/C setup.


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## ewillard (Apr 21, 2007)

REPOMAN said:


> Data log 17 looks like
> 242 KPA = 35 - 14 = 21psi MAP Manifold Air Pressure
> A/F looks like 13.5 Way to lean you want 12.2 above 4000rpm in boost above 15psi
> I would get it to Idle and off Idle Cruz at 13.5 and making power in boost at 12.2
> ...


inj are rc 1000
the MAT is in F so its only 105*F 
the duty cycle is a big issue i can not figure out why it is so high. it cant be a fuel supply issue there's more then enough pump in my system. in tank is a 4bar and the 044 in an IE surge tank under car 
the afr is 12.5-10.8 in boost.


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

105F is real good. nice
10.8 A/F is way to rich.. losing power. this would also account for the high duty cycle.
I just read your build post... I have expierenced the same issues over the years...
1000cc at 4 bar should be good for 500hp. What size Fuel lines do you have? I use 3/8" 
You defently have a handle on it, I don't know that i can offer any new ideas.
Good luck with the tune


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## ewillard (Apr 21, 2007)

thanks for your help im sure ill get it figured i think it is a setting in megasquirt ill figure it out im sure and get back on the dyno next week or 2


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