# MK4 2.0 8v Custom Turbo



## nemesismotorsports07 (Sep 19, 2007)

ok guys so I just got everything back togther on my car. the "kit" consists of a freshly rebuilt K24, a spearco fmic, turbo-xs boost controller, hks ssbov, stock injectors, stock intake mani, custom 3" downpipe, stock fuel rail, 4 bar fpr off a vr6and a stock ecu....now for the fun stuff, this is where im lost I have no clue but anything over 5lbs of boost and it acts crazy. a/f is ok at 5 lbs but i haven't really tried anythng over 5. I ws thinking about trying to switch toa vr6 maf or a 1.8t maf would this do any good or am i going to have to have a custom tune done?....please help. If you need pics to see setup I can load hm or send them to you


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## Jefnes3 (Aug 17, 2001)

*Re: MK4 2.0 8v Custom Turbo (nemesismotorsports07)*

We have Turbo 2L AEG software for some ecu's (There are 24 OEM versions)
Basic specs:
stock or lower compression versions (ignition map)
Bosch Green Top 440cc inj
OEM VR6 MAF Houisng.
Can support up to ~280whp. 
We can custom tune also.

BTW: the 1.8T MAF housing is the same as your stock MAF.

-Jeffrey Atwood


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## nemesismotorsports07 (Sep 19, 2007)

*Re: MK4 2.0 8v Custom Turbo (Jefnes3)*

thats awesome what information do I need to give when i call that way you know what ecu I have? and should this solve my problem competely? I was talking to someone that said the price is around 1000.00$ is this true?..will I have to send you my ecu or will it be a "plug & play" deal? how long will this take to arrive if i were to order it today, how many lbs of boost would i be able to run saftely? and what other parts if any, would need to be purchased?


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## J.Owen (May 31, 2001)

*Re: MK4 2.0 8v Custom Turbo (nemesismotorsports07)*

I am running there software right now at 11 psi and stock compression on my '99 aeg. Definitely a nice set-up and a reliable fueling package. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## nemesismotorsports07 (Sep 19, 2007)

*Re: MK4 2.0 8v Custom Turbo (bugasm99)*

how hard was everything to install? how long did it take to get i mean i need it like yesterday


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## J.Owen (May 31, 2001)

*Re: MK4 2.0 8v Custom Turbo (nemesismotorsports07)*

well, they are very difficult to get ahold of and the turn around isn't the quickest. But it is worth it in the end. Your best bet is to start emailing and calling chris right now and just continue trying until you get through. It will also depend on whether they have the file # for your ecu. If not then Jeff will have to write the new file which will take longer.


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## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

C2 will set you up rather nicely for what you are looking for... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## mikemcnair (Mar 28, 2003)

*Re: (Flipdriver80)*

bump so C2 gets a look at this thread....... (again that is)
change your INJ. and software, and you will be able to drive this thins just fine. 
oh, and get that BOV out of there, or at least re route it into the intake track.


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## nemesismotorsports07 (Sep 19, 2007)

*Re: (mikemcnair)*

called c2 all day and no awnser, i think my bov is in the intake track, what would you recommend to do or what bov would you use?...also does anyone know where i can get a better downpipe for this app?


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## mikemcnair (Mar 28, 2003)

*Re: (nemesismotorsports07)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nemesismotorsports07* »_called c2 all day and no awnser, i think my bov is in the intake track, what would you recommend to do or what bov would you use?...also does anyone know where i can get a better downpipe for this app?

you think your BOV is in the intake track? 
honestly bro, that doesn't sound good. 
please take some pictures of yoru setup. post them up, and we can see how things are routed. i am guessing your BOV vents to the atmosphere which messes with your measured air from the MAF/ECU. 
also, the bucking you discribed is most definitely from running stock injectors at 5 psi. i HIGHLY RECCOMEND you stop that at once!!!
if you lean out under boost because the injectors can't keep up, you will undoubtedly melt something. namely your pistons. 
if this is someone elses car, they are gonna be really upset!!! 
as for the BOV replacement: depending on your setup, you may benefit from a stock Audi TT 225 diverter valve. that is, if your BOV cannot be rerouted into the intake track. 
also, PM me your ZIP code, perhaps i can come there to take a look at things for you and try to get you all streightened out. 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

oh, and what is wrong with the custom downpipe?


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## J.Owen (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (mikemcnair)*

Mechanicsburg is only about 2 hours from Mike and I. I could bring out my AEG turbo for comparison reasons.
As for your set-up. With a stock ECU and injectors you are most likely running incredibly lean under boost. This will most certainly lead to you melting a piston. A VR or 1.8T maf housing are the same size in a mark 4 so there is no difference. Adding a larger MAF housing at this point would only lean your car out more as the MAF would get a lower signal and inject even less fuel.
You really need to hold off and get the proper injectors and ecu in order to run safely.
The C2 set-up consists of 440cc (42#) injectors. These are the same as Ford Racing Bosch Green Tops and can be found on Ebay a lot, or in the forced induction classifieds here on the tex. 
The software is a flash from C2 and requires you to send in the ecu. I am not completely sure, but if you happen to have an ecu with a file # jeff has already created, you might be able to get flashed at APTuning since they are somewhat close to you.
You will also need a 3" MAF housing which you will use your stock MAF in. I purchased mine the ATP but C2 and Bahn Brenner carry them as well.
Lastly, get the 4 bar out of there and go back to the stock FPR when you get this set-up.


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## nemesismotorsports07 (Sep 19, 2007)

*Re: (bugasm99)*

i will take pics tonight and post them or send them to you guys in e-mail it would be great if somone could help me with this cause i really wanna see what it will feel like when it runs right. is there a faster way to get ahold of c2? or do you think i could try somone's ecu frst to see if it will fix everything before I drop a grand for somethng that don't fix my problem


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## J.Owen (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (nemesismotorsports07)*

just to add some more. The SSQ BOV will also cause some issues when shifting. Nothing horrible, but the car will run rich since it is releasing metered air back into the atmosphere. Right now that is the least of your worries though.
Unforunately the files are fairly specific to the car and truly only work with the other components. For example, throwing my ECU in your car as is will still not run right as you have the smaller MAF housing and smaller injectors. The ECU is mapped around those items.
Also, the Software was $375, i found my injectors for $90 and the MAF housing is a $20 ATP flange welded to a 3" aluminum tube. So its not going to cost you 1k to do this.


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## nemesismotorsports07 (Sep 19, 2007)

*Re: (bugasm99)*

i just got off the phone with aptuning and he said around 800 for injectors, flash, and maf housing if i drop it off there sat i'll get it back next wendsday


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## nemesismotorsports07 (Sep 19, 2007)

*Re: (nemesismotorsports07)*

Ok bad news guys!!..I got a phone call tonight from my friend and he informed me that the place that sold me my car, had sold me the car without letting me know that it was a flood car and the original motor was blown due to water being sucked up into the intake. So where im at now is, I have no clue how many miles the swapped motor has on it, what shape the internals are in, ect.. So new game plan! I picked up an ABA block tonight as soon as I heard about this. Plan to order new rod & crank bearings, three layer head gasket, and piston rings, stage 2 clutch, and motor mounts tonight offline. Im not a mk3 guy but i would imagine that this would make for a pretty stout bottom end due to the forged pistons but I could be wrong. Let me know what you guys think about this. Still plan to take the ecu down to aptuning this weekend for them to ship it off to c2 for flashing. Thinking I should find injectors and a maf housing elsewhere for $$$ purposes. Also plan on getting a 3" downpipe and a tt cat back exhaust. After doing all this I would hope my motor would be reliable, and not need anyhing but regular matinence for a little while at least. Once again please let me know what you guys think/what else you would recommend while im already at this point I figure might as well do it all not with the motor out that way I only have to do it once. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Jefnes3 (Aug 17, 2001)

*Re: (nemesismotorsports07)*

If you plan to use C2 software, best to use an OEM VR6 MAF.
fairly easy to source one from someone who has replaced their MAF sensor.
I bet APTuning has one hanging around the shop.
-Jeff


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## nemesismotorsports07 (Sep 19, 2007)

*Re: (Jefnes3)*

ok just took pictures for you guys to see what everything looks like but i can't figure out how to upload them onto here so if you wanna see hem then you'l have to e-mail me or pm me and i'll send them via e-mail....Also I just took into account the lower compression ratio when using the aba bottom end the 3 layer head gasket and the aeg head. Wil this lower my compression ratio, if so does anyone know what it will lower it to im assuming 9:1, but what do i know?...lol


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## J.Owen (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (nemesismotorsports07)*

the ABA and AEG blocks have different deck heights. This may cause some problems as you go to install all this in your car. There is a guy selling an AEG block in fairfax, VA right now.


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## nemesismotorsports07 (Sep 19, 2007)

*Re: (bugasm99)*

deck height as in my motor clearing my hood?


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## J.Owen (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (nemesismotorsports07)*

as in an ABA motor is phisically taller then the AEG motor. The ABA uses 159 mm rods while the aeg has 144 mm rods.


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## mikemcnair (Mar 28, 2003)

*Re: (bugasm99)*

oh boy.............
judging by the pix you emailed me last night (posted below) you have no MAF on the car (if that yellow looking thing is indeed an airfilter) *or you have it after the turbo*...... which, although a possibility to run, i haven't seen it like that on a turbo'd car. usaully, the MAF reads the air BEFORE the turbo.....
and you are most certainly venting wasted boost pressure to the atmosphere (BOV). 
you need to get the appropriate sensors, software, and injectors for your application. 


































_Modified by mikemcnair at 9:24 AM 10-12-2007_


_Modified by mikemcnair at 9:26 AM 10-12-2007_


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## J.Owen (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (mikemcnair)*

*DON'T DRIVE THE CAR!!!!!!!!!* 
You do have a MAF on the car but it is in the boost pipes, right before the throttle body. Although this is not ideal, it will technically work to an extent. You really should have that moved into the intake track though. 
The reason I say not to drive the car though, is because you have your Crank Venting back into a boost pipe. That means every time you go into boost your filling your crank case with the same amount of pressure. This will blow out all your seals as well as blow your piston rings.
to give you an idea, here is my set-up. You can see the boost pipe on the left and the intake pipe to the right. I have my MAF on my intake pipe and the diverter sits just below connecting to the two pipes together.


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## J.Owen (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (bugasm99)*

Also, your most likely shooting oil over all over the place because your beetle PCV (oil filler) isn't turned all the way and locked into place. Add to that the positive crank pressure and I would assume most of it is escaping through the seal under your PCV as it struggles to survive.
here is another pic...


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## mikemcnair (Mar 28, 2003)

*Re: (bugasm99)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bugasm99* »_ *DON'T DRIVE THE CAR!!!!!!!!!* 

i didn't even notice the PCV in the first pic!!!!!!!!!! holy crap that's not good!!!!








cease and decist at once!!!!!!!


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## nemesismotorsports07 (Sep 19, 2007)

*Re: (mikemcnair)*

WELL HELPME OUT THEN GUYS!!! I have no clue which route to go in now, and the guy who put this together or me is prolly gonna charge me more to fix all those things...should ave just bought a kit and been done with it.


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## mikemcnair (Mar 28, 2003)

*Re: (nemesismotorsports07)*

if you need a "quick fix", vent the crankcase to the atmosphere for the time being. this is NOT a permanant solution, just a quick fix!!!!
then plug the hole in the boost pipe where you have the PCV routed now. 
who built this car? 
did you pick it up mid-project?
does anyone near you know turbo's? 
honestly bro, i fear you are in over your head with just the simple stuff, and i think the first sign was running 5psi on stock fueling.......
regardless of my opinion, you need help, and you need it fast. you need to find someone local that knows what they are looking at. 
i would gladly come help, but i cannot right now. 
perhaps put a post up in the midatlantic forum, and try to get someone to come look at the car this weekend?


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## mikemcnair (Mar 28, 2003)

*Re: (mikemcnair)*

3 main things to do as of now.........
put the MAF in FRONT of the turbo, not after it.
vent PCV system
get rid of the BOV and vent the charged air into the intake track BEFORE the turbo.


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## J.Owen (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (mikemcnair)*

Things I would do ...
- Replace the black crinkle pipe going into the throttle body. I would get another metal 90' bend that fits in its place. This will eliminate the hose for the PCV.
- add a pipe between the filter and the inlet to the turbo. relocate your MAF sensor to the front of this pipe (nearest the filter). 
- Remove the hose from the PCV valve itself and just let it vent to the atmosphere. Not the best, but won't hurt the car itself. Just smells bad and dirty.
- As Mike, said, I would try and Use a recurculating valve (diverter), but you can get away with the BOV you have for the time being. Even if the SSQ sounds like a school of dolphins.
- You have a lot of vacuum lines floating around and I am unsure where they all go. I have total of 4, only one of which actually tee's. In these pics I see hose and tee's all over the place. Unfortunately this is something you need to see in person to clean up.
At this point it may be better to just redo all the piping. You can reuse the physical pipes that you have, but chop them up and rework how the piping runs through the car. As Mike said, you should really try and get someone local look at this. I would be more then happy to help out, but I will be away this weekend.
Next week I plan to install my Super60 at some point. Your more then welcome to make the trek and check out my set-up for some ideas. I'll have it all apart and you'll be able to see how it all works together.


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## J.Owen (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (bugasm99)*

ALSO, even if you get the piping sorted out ... you still need to get the software and fueling. The car really will not run safely without upgrading the fueling and running the matching software.


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## mikemcnair (Mar 28, 2003)

*Re: (bugasm99)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bugasm99* »_-. * Even if the SSQ sounds like a school of dolphins.*


in a seriously beneficial thread (to the OP) i am still glad to see some comic releif!!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## J.Owen (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (mikemcnair)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I still laugh every time I read your "fa caugh, PA"


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## mikemcnair (Mar 28, 2003)

*Re: (bugasm99)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bugasm99* »_ http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I still laugh every time I read your "fa caugh, PA"








that my friend, is why i did this........








sorry fot the off topic:
ok, Karac, we need to find someone to come look at the car ASAP.
what about the dude that built it?


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## nemesismotorsports07 (Sep 19, 2007)

*Re: (mikemcnair)*

k so the guy that built it is gonna go over everything tomm. and im going to drop my ecu off to have it flashed what all do i need to tell him to do other than what was listed above? what do you mean re-route the ic piping?


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## mikemcnair (Mar 28, 2003)

*Re: (nemesismotorsports07)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nemesismotorsports07* »_what all do i need to tell him to do ?

tell him to FIX it................


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## nemesismotorsports07 (Sep 19, 2007)

*Re: (mikemcnair)*

yeah i figured this much, but he says everything is ok the way it is, but he said if i want it the way u guys said to do it he will?? I just hope he can get everything sorted out right, also he said he has a 1.8t diverter valve there if I want that on instead of the bov


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## dhutchvento (May 8, 2006)

*Re: (bugasm99)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bugasm99* »_the ABA and AEG blocks have different deck heights. This may cause some problems as you go to install all this in your car. There is a guy selling an AEG block in fairfax, VA right now.

also the aba block runs a distributor - your car does not.....to run it in your car you would need a 16v block off plate (designed to allow the oil pump to still turn and not have the dizzy there to spin w/ the IM shaft) or get a BBM Dizzy Gizzy
also your turbo down pipe will come out about 15mm or so too short.....if your lucky the flex elbow may allow it to still reach.....
I don't think a 15 or so mm higher block height is going to hit the hood.....we are talking about 9/16" or so of an inch higher.......
IIRC your car has a crank position sensor to reference for spark timing (hence no dizzy) - the ABA does not......another item that will have to swap over
I imagine the aba can be made to work, and work well.....but is isn't something that will drop in over one afternoon without a hitch.......


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## nemesismotorsports07 (Sep 19, 2007)

*Re: (dhutchvento)*

ok so got everything fixed up i think, still have all those vaccue t's though don't know about that, ecu and injectors will be here later in the week, maf was moved, oil cap issue fixed, kept bov, lengthened ic piping lets hope the ecu and injectors work and the motor holds up until i decide what to do about building a motor. maybe sometime somone can come check out my setup and see if all these vaccume t's need to be there new pics also if anyone wants to see.


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## nemesismotorsports07 (Sep 19, 2007)

*Re: (nemesismotorsports07)*

still running the bov, not sure how to use dv, or how to hook it up rather. also need to know what kind to get


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## the_q_jet (Mar 19, 2005)

ok wow...i have a setup VERY similar to yours...the crack case tube should VERY MUCH BE DISCONNECTED! also have the maf as a blow-thru setup is perfectly fine as thats how mine is run...most people dont understand that a MAF measures air mass/density and not pressure...and hence the readings the same for the most part...


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## J.Owen (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (the_q_jet)*

Yes the MAF will work in its current location. The main reason I recommend moving it is in preparation of installing the C2 fueling kit. He will need to use a larger MAF housing. It make more sense to put this at the beginning of the intake pipe and gradually make the piping smaller. This also allows a constant pipe size into the throttle body.


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## the_q_jet (Mar 19, 2005)

*Re: (bugasm99)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bugasm99* »_Yes the MAF will work in its current location. The main reason I recommend moving it is in preparation of installing the C2 fueling kit. He will need to use a larger MAF housing. It make more sense to put this at the beginning of the intake pipe and gradually make the piping smaller. This also allows a constant pipe size into the throttle body.
tru...i was jus stubborn


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## dhutchvento (May 8, 2006)

*Re: (the_q_jet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *the_q_jet* »_tru...i was jus stubborn









also journal bearing turbos will spray a very slight oil mist thru the intake track.....onto the MAF.....which often shorten its lifespan....unless moved to the intake side
however there is a benefit (I think) if you place the MAF just prior to the thottle plate - you can run a BOV rather than a recirc'ed Divertor Valve.....since the throttle plate will close & the BOV will vent - the MAF reading will drop since air isnt moving by it anymore (its going out the BOV)..... 
Now if you hook up a DV and move the MAF to the intake side....... when the throttle plate closes - the DV will open and pump the boosted air right back into the intake pipe where the turbo for a second will just suck it right back again through the DV in a recirculating loop till the turbo down spools..... this circulation causes no more fresh air to be pulled in past the MAF mounted behind the filter......also causing the MAF reading to drop......
I guess either way works - either you replace or clean the MAF and enjoy the mouse farting under your hood ...... or go silent and not worry about cleaning or MAF maintenance.....or upgrading MAF housing size.....


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## the_q_jet (Mar 19, 2005)

*Re: (dhutchvento)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dhutchvento* »_
also journal bearing turbos will spray a very slight oil mist thru the intake track.....onto the MAF.....which often shorten its lifespan....unless moved to the intake side
however there is a benefit (I think) if you place the MAF just prior to the thottle plate - you can run a BOV rather than a recirc'ed Divertor Valve.....since the throttle plate will close & the BOV will vent - the MAF reading will drop since air isnt moving by it anymore (its going out the BOV)..... 
Now if you hook up a DV and move the MAF to the intake side....... when the throttle plate closes - the DV will open and pump the boosted air right back into the intake pipe where the turbo for a second will just suck it right back again through the DV in a recirculating loop till the turbo down spools..... this circulation causes no more fresh air to be pulled in past the MAF mounted behind the filter......also causing the MAF reading to drop......
I guess either way works - either you replace or clean the MAF and enjoy the mouse farting under your hood ...... or go silent and not worry about cleaning or MAF maintenance.....or upgrading MAF housing size.....

you still have to upgrade the MAF size..and another thing...havin the MAF way down line of the turbo and goin thru an intercooler like me helps prohibit contamination of the element inside...been a good 10k miles and no problems


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## magics5rip (Mar 17, 2004)

*Re: (bugasm99)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bugasm99* »_- Remove the hose from the PCV valve itself and just let it vent to the atmosphere. Not the best, but won't hurt the car itself. Just smells bad and dirty.


Shouldn't he just re-route the PCV back to the non-pressure side of the intake? I mean, all it takes in another short length of pipe (i used 1" OD on my MKIII) and call it a day. After that you could worry about a catch can solution, but I wouldn't just vent it to atmosphere. Plus, any emissions test get would be an automatic failure.

_Quote, originally posted by *nemesismotorsports07* »_still running the bov, not sure how to use dv, or how to hook it up rather. also need to know what kind to get

A BOV is almost the exact same thing as a DV. Only difference is that the DV will re-route air back to the NON-PRESSURE SIDE of your turbo setup (IE pre turbo, but post MAF.) It is, again, just another addition to your intake piping. I again used 1" OD steel tubing for this. 


_Modified by magics5rip at 3:01 PM 10-17-2007_


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## nemesismotorsports07 (Sep 19, 2007)

*Re: (magics5rip)*

ok well like i said i fixed that since everyone said to move the maf I have new pics now if anyone wants to see, so the guy who was building the custom turbo setup for me eliminated the pcv and just put the oil filler cap on top of the valve cover, i take it this isn't good. also i still have that problem with ann those vaccume t's being everywhere, but i think this is due to eliminating the air pump. also you guys never said if i should run the bov or a dv


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## J.Owen (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (magics5rip)*


_Quote, originally posted by *magics5rip* »_Shouldn't he just re-route the PCV back to the non-pressure side of the intake? I mean, all it takes in another short length of pipe (i used 1" OD on my MKIII) and call it a day. After that you could worry about a catch can solution, but I wouldn't just vent it to atmosphere. Plus, any emissions test get would be an automatic failure.

well, both mike and myself stated that this should be a temporary solution in an effort to not pressurize the crank case. He shouldn't leave it vented to the atmosphere permanently. But it is not necessarily a great idea to just reroute it back into the intake pipe either. A boosted 2.0 will have a decent amount of blow-by, especially an AEG which already has oil burning issues. If you reroute it to the intake pipe all of the oil will drain back into the turbo and the intake track. Most will not make it back into the combustion chamber to burn and will simply collect in the pipes and intercooler.


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## J.Owen (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (nemesismotorsports07)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nemesismotorsports07* »_ok well like i said i fixed that since everyone said to move the maf I have new pics now if anyone wants to see, so the guy who was building the custom turbo setup for me eliminated the pcv and just put the oil filler cap on top of the valve cover, i take it this isn't good. also i still have that problem with ann those vaccume t's being everywhere, but i think this is due to eliminating the air pump. also you guys never said if i should run the bov or a dv

You need to vent the crank case somehow. Just capping it is almost as bad as pressurizing it in a Turbo app. For the time being, I would put the PCV back in and leave it venting to the atmosphere. _As a temporary fix!_ 
As for the BOV vs. DV. if the pipes already have the BOV welded on then keep that set-up while you work out the other issues. In theory a DV is better in this application since it is a MAF set-up without a MAP sensor. But its not going to kill you and you will be able to drive the car with the BOV.


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## nemesismotorsports07 (Sep 19, 2007)

*Re: (bugasm99)*

ok, so i just picked up my injectors and my ecu from aptuning. still need to install everything inc. maf injectors, and ecu but today is my birthday so it can wait till tom. but i had a question why would i run my 3" filter to a 3" maf housing and then into a 2.5" inlet on my turbo???!!! dosen't that kinda defeat the purpose of the 3" maf housing?


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## the_q_jet (Mar 19, 2005)

*Re: (nemesismotorsports07)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nemesismotorsports07* »_. but i had a question why would i run my 3" filter to a 3" maf housing and then into a 2.5" inlet on my turbo???!!! dosen't that kinda defeat the purpose of the 3" maf housing?
no it doesnt at all...the 3in maf housing is to not max out the sensor...after that...it doesnt matter


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## nemesismotorsports07 (Sep 19, 2007)

*Re: (the_q_jet)*

so it will be ok going from 3" into my turbo inlet?


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## the_q_jet (Mar 19, 2005)

yea you'll be fine...people wouldnt be suggesting things if they didnt work....cept for the dvlax character....


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## nemesismotorsports07 (Sep 19, 2007)

*Re: (the_q_jet)*

Got the ecu, maf housing, injectors and everything in, went to start it and it cranks over but offers nothing now wtf do i do?


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## dhutchvento (May 8, 2006)

*Re: (nemesismotorsports07)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nemesismotorsports07* »_Got the ecu, maf housing, injectors and everything in, went to start it and it cranks over but offers nothing now wtf do i do?

maf facing the right direction??? or plug is backward??? even so it should start maybe - but choke and sputter horribly after touching the gas pedal.. 
you can start with the basics by checking to see if you got spark - pull a plug and hold it against the block or head (not near the plug hole - or you might get a suprise)
does the fuel pump prime when you turn the key??
have a stock ecu laying around? maybe the reflash didn't go so well
have a vag-com cable or a friend with one??? see if you can connect to the ecu.....


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## nemesismotorsports07 (Sep 19, 2007)

*Re: (dhutchvento)*

ok tom down at aptuning lent me a stock ecu to see if my flash on my ecu was the problem, came home and installed stock ecu and BAM!! she started.. YAY!!!!! so now i know the ecu was the problem that makes me happy so hopefully this time wheni get it back it works correctly. i'll keep ya posted.


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## dhutchvento (May 8, 2006)

*Re: (nemesismotorsports07)*

good to hear it runs http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## J.Owen (May 31, 2001)

*Re: (dhutchvento)*

sorry I missed all your im's, but i'm glad to see your back on track. Good luck with it. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## nemesismotorsports07 (Sep 19, 2007)

*Re: (bugasm99)*

it just keeps getting worse and worse





















turbo had about 1/4 an inch of oil sitting on the bottom of the intake side of the turbo. motor that should have 74xxx miles has to have WELL OVER 150xxx head and block are from 2 diff. salvage yard engines, so it looks like either the aeg with 64xxx miles sittin at aptuning is goin in or a full rebuild. as for the turbo hopefuly all it needs is a set of seals but we'll see how things pan out. either way it better run great in the end. so it looks like my "great deal" turbo install is turning into a total "nickle and dime me to death deal"


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## haenszel (Mar 14, 2004)

*Re: (nemesismotorsports07)*

The best part about this is that you live in *Mechanicsburg*.


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## all-starr-me (Jul 14, 2003)

*Re: (the_q_jet)*

should have learned from Evan at 42nd draft, the AEG is not a good turbo motor.


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## [email protected] (Jan 9, 2008)

*Re: (all-starr-me)*

evan didn't have C2 fueling...
and as an update, this car had a whole bunch of install issues that were giving him problems. Not the engine itself.


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## scharged (Sep 9, 2004)

*Re: (nemesismotorsports07)*


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