# 97 Jetta Distributor Install



## 97JettaDIY'er (Mar 28, 2010)

Help! I attempted to replace the distributor in my wife's 97 Jetta and believe I may be 1 tooth off on the worm drive when I installed the replacement. If so would the engine still start? I counted 17 teeth on the distributor gear so I'm assuming 1 tooth off would be +/- 21 degrees. The engine starts but is idling very rough. I was using a Haynes manual but found it sketchy at best. Also, I found two similar markings close together on the flywheel when I attempted to set cylinder 1 to tdc which created a ton of confusion. Thanks in advance for any help or advice


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## FL 2.0L (Aug 1, 2002)

Thanks to Dan J Reed and BrokeVW.com for the image.
You want the little round dimple for TDC, not the diamond.
Did you have the distributor's locating pins?


_Modified by FL 2.0L at 9:39 PM 3-27-2010_


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## 97JettaDIY'er (Mar 28, 2010)

Thanks! I must be looking at the timing lugs....mine are ribbed. Should the dimple be in the center of the viewing hole on the bellhousing? I'm not sure what you mean by the distributor's locating pins. Embarrassingly I confused #1 cylinder with #4 prior to removing the original distributor which created all kings of problems. Moreover, the rotor position marks I made on the block disappeared while trying to extract the distributor.


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## FL 2.0L (Aug 1, 2002)

There should be an arrow pointing down from the inside edge of the viewing hole to line the dimple up with. If you have an aftermarket flywheel, the marks will differ from stock.
There are locating pins for the distributor so you can't put it in wrong, but they are sometimes removed or broken.
http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty...x.htm
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?&id=4170560


_Modified by FL 2.0L at 10:20 PM 3-27-2010_


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## FL 2.0L (Aug 1, 2002)

Great pics here:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4613294


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## 97JettaDIY'er (Mar 28, 2010)

Thank You FL 2.0L. We also have a 96 Jetta and I noticed those pins but saw nothing on the 97 Jetta.


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## FL 2.0L (Aug 1, 2002)

Sure. Hope you get it figured out...
It looks like you can get it awfully close by eyeballing the flat spot where the pins would be. After that, just make sure the rotor points to the hash when you're at TDC.


_Modified by FL 2.0L at 4:38 PM 3-28-2010_


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## 97JettaDIY'er (Mar 28, 2010)

I found the tdc mark on the flywheel (thanks to the picture) and installed the distributor as you advised. The car starts right up and idles nicely but is very hesitant and doggy on the road and producing a sulfur smell. Any advice?


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## rabbidGTI (Feb 16, 2005)

*Re: (97JettaDIY'er)*

Im no expert but it still sounds like your timing is off. There is also a crank TDC mark on the outside of the lower timing cover put a light on it and line up the back of the crank pulley (put car in third gear jack up the front and turn the wheel by hand to line it up). Not as hard as it sounds just go slow and in the direction of the natural rotation. Also a timing mark for the cam inside the top timing cover its plastic and is visible with the top timing cover off. That should be lined up with a mark on the cam gear (also the inside of the cam has a notch that will be lined up with the top of the head where it meets the valve cover). Line it all up with the distributor out and then install the distributor making sure the mark on the rotor is lined up with the notch on the distributor. Then install the cap and make sure you hook up the wires in the correct firing order. Sulfur sounds like the catalytic converter just took a dump maybe fried o2 sensors from an incorrect gas to air ratio (too rich). I could be horribly wrong on this. Can anyone chime in? I too have a Haynes and it can be sketch at times








-Also make sure all the wires are on tight and plug hooked up to distributor.


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## 97JettaDIY'er (Mar 28, 2010)

Thanks for chiming in rabbidGTI. Since my last post I noticed that cylinder #4 wire was arcing so I replaced all the wires, plugs, cap and rotor and overall the car is running 10 fold better with the exception of a very doggy acceleration in 1st gear or in lower RPM ranges in the other gears. I'm suspecting that the timing is slightly off. When you recommend putting a light on the TDC mark on the lower timing cover are you referring to a timing light or just a light to see? I guess I assumed that lining up the TDC mark on the flywheel in the bellhousing assured that all these other marks were aligned since the timing belt was never removed.


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## rabbidGTI (Feb 16, 2005)

*Re: (97JettaDIY'er)*

Ya sounds like one tooth retarded as I believe one tooth is roughly 18 degrees difference. Yes the timing mark on the lower cover is an arrow pointing down and the pulley has a notch. Use a strong flash light to see it and check to see if when its lined up the rotor is lined up with the mark on the distributor as well. If not then there is the culprit. I often find in my experience the flywheel timing mark to be inconsistent. IMO its best to use the crank or cam timing mark either would suffice as the timing bellt was never removed. Hope this helps Im just a DIYer too with no Bentley!! http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif (I need one badly)


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## 97JettaDIY'er (Mar 28, 2010)

I just returned from the garage with no luck. Will that mark on the lower cover (crank) be on the engine side of the cover (inside) or the face of the cover? Also, according to Haynes (or how I'm interpreting it, the O.T mark on the cam is used for the 1.8, is this incorrect?


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## 97JettaDIY'er (Mar 28, 2010)

rabbidGTI - I found the pulley mark and cover arrow for the crank (thank you) which lined up close enough to the flywheel marking for TDC but I noticed that the cam shaft sprocket markings fall short of the O.T markings on the inside timing belt cover. What do you think?


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## FL 2.0L (Aug 1, 2002)

Keep the mark for the crank, but get the camshaft pulley lined up with the OT mark on the upper inside plate. And if the rotor is pointing to the hash mark on the distributor, you should be dead on.
I was going to guess misfire for the rotten egg smell, but it seems you solved it with the tuneup.


_Modified by FL 2.0L at 12:08 AM 4-3-2010_


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## rabbidGTI (Feb 16, 2005)

*Re: (FL 2.0L)*

Really your concern shoud be the timing mark on either the crank or cam lined up and the *rotor on the distributor mark*. The haynes is vague in that reguard I too was confused until looking elsewhere for info. On the cam its the tooth in between T.O. mark that should line up with the T.O. mark on the plastic peice. If you really want to make sure remove the plastic piece and see that the mark on the inside of the cam sprocket is lined up with where the head meets with the valve cover...but in your case make sure the *rotor is lined up with the distributor mark* when either the crank/flywheel/cam mark is at TDC. Also double check that you have the wires in the correct firing order.


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## 97JettaDIY'er (Mar 28, 2010)

A sincere thanks to both of you for taking the time to share your knowledge. I really feel like I've learned a lot. The only mark that isn't lining up is the cam shaft sprocket with the T.O. arrow on the plastic. If the plastic mark is 12:00, the sprocket mark is 10:30 or so. Given my renewed confidence I tore into our 1996 Jetta and found that all 4 of the marks (crank, cam, distributor and flywheel) were nuts on. The '97' has a fraction of the zip the '96' offers. Could this incorrect valve timing be the culprit for the lack of 'zip' on acceleration? Other than lack of pep the wife says the car is running nicely. Before I tackle the next challenge (correctly setting the cam) I have a question. Is it possible that the valves are actually timed correctly but the cam sprocket was installed a little 'off'..... or is the sprocket guided by a 'key' that assures correct positioning on the shaft? Given the potential valve interference with the piston I'm hesitant to make any adjustments. Also, any advise on flirting with the timing belt tensioner? Thanks again guys.


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## rabbidGTI (Feb 16, 2005)

*Re: (97JettaDIY'er)*

WOW! It is simple to make sure the timing is correct without going that deep. If the cam is truely off which means the dimple on the inside of the cam does not line up where the head meets the valve cover (ignore the plastic T.O. as a matter of fact remove it to see inside of cam sprocket) then it could mean that it is incorrect since it should only slide on one way I believe called a woodriff key. If it aint broke dont fix it is my advice. If it gets proper gas mileage and doesnt overheat youre golden since its your wifes car anyway. And some say this engine is not interference others say it is. I dont know never did an experiment to find out. Is the timing belt tensioner the original style or reverted to the older style?


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## sjt1985 (Feb 17, 2010)

*Re: (97JettaDIY'er)*


_Quote, originally posted by *97JettaDIY’er* »_ Is it possible that the valves are actually timed correctly but the cam sprocket was installed a little 'off'.... 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4365340
Have you seen this?


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## jorge r (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: (97JettaDIY'er)*

Get rid of the automatic belt tensioner and get the eccentric type. 

1/4 turn of the belt by hand is rule of thumb for belt tension.








Does the check engine light turn on?


_Modified by jorge r at 12:02 AM 4-7-2010_


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## 97JettaDIY'er (Mar 28, 2010)

I'm not sure what style the timing belt tensioner is but it has a couple of small holes near the middle and the Haynes manual suggests using a snap-ring pliers to rotate the tensioner. What style is it? I'm hoping to spend some time under the hood this weekend and plan to remove the upper inside timing belt cover and look for the dimple on the back of the cam. The car isn't overheating and the wife hasn't burned through a tank of gas yet to evaluate gas mileage. As I said, other than an incredibly lethargic acceleration (compared to out 1996 Jetta), the car appears to be running well in all other aspects. I can't help but think that the cam shaft timing is the difference between the two cars. The car is running well enough that I feel confident on the other 3 timing marks (crank, flywheel , distributor). Viewing vw photobucket of jorge r (great pictures) I see the cam shift timing is lined up just like our '96'. The timing belt was replaced shortly before we purchased the Jetta 5 years ago. At the time we upgraded from a 1992 Jetta and we always thought the '97' jetta was a 'dog' compared to all our 4 previous Jetta(s).


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## jorge r (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: (97JettaDIY'er)*

You have the good tensioner. On the picture above, I use an allen wrench or hex wrench to adjust the belt tension by inserting the wrench in a hole and prying against the other wrench.


_Modified by jorge r at 1:59 AM 4-8-2010_


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## 97JettaDIY'er (Mar 28, 2010)

Thanks Jorge, good to know. So, as far as adjusting the cam sprocket is it simply lining up all the other timing marks, loosening the timing belt tensioner, rotating the cam sprocket (clockwise) to the appropriate mark and then tightening belt back up?


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## jorge r (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: (97JettaDIY'er)*

You're wellcome. Yes, get your timing marks aligned and tighten the tensioner, then double check your work by rotating the engine two revolutions for the marks to fall back into position.


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