# Help with air ride management; need some assistance with hardware/fittings



## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

Here is the car now










Just purchased some front struts (airlift). I need suggestions on rear bags and shocks, preferably with adjustable dampeners. I plan on riding low for the most part, but I also plan on driving at around stock height for some back road cruising every once in a while so I am looking for "sports" type shocks I guess, that also work well with lowered cars.

I also need some assistance piecing together my management. I plan on going with a 4-way manual setup. What all do I need? 

*air Tank* - Probably going with a 5 gallon, probably a raw finish (for painting or polishing) but I am not sure how many ports I need

I need 1 port for the compressor, 1 (maybe even 4 depending how I set this up) for the air output to the bags, than I need various ports for safety valve (is this necessary?), a schrader valve (which I probably dont need to have that on the tank at all times), a dump valve and a drain ****. Than I will also need a port for the tank gauge. So all in all, I need 8 ports, unless a lot of that stuff is unnecessary and does have to be on the tank at all times.

*Compressor* - I will be running all of this on a standard battery and alternator along with a subwoofer (and 600w amp). The price difference between a vair 380cc and 400cc is negligible...so is there any reason to get one over another? Would the power consumption of the 380 work better with my system perhaps? I need a relay and harness for this as well? 

What gauge power wire (and fuse) would I need? Could I use standard audio power wire?

*Gauges* - two easystreet dual needle gauges as well as a tank gauge

*Pressure switch* - 145 psi switch should work fine right?

*Oil/water seperator* - just your standard one

*Air line* - DOT approved of course, how much is enough? 80 ft = $20 so that should be fine right? I plan on running the rear bag lines under the car and through the fire wall, rather than inside the car. 

*Valves* - 4 manual paddle valves

The real problem is hardware/fittings. 

I need 4 T lines to split the air line between the bags, gauges, and valves correct? 

This is my trunk now










Here are some mock ups of my wanted setup.


















































































Seats will be removed, and I am getting rid of that stupid plexiglass over the amp. Might throw an autopower roll cage/bar in there. Obviously, I am not sure if I am going to paint or polish the tank. I do not know if I am going to go with stainless steel or copper hard lines (depends whats available) and I dont know if I am going to try and use 4 ports (4 hardlines) for the bags or if I will just use a single port and split it into 4 lines. I also dont know if I will be willing to peel off the black vinyl and redo the floor with wood :banghead::banghead::banghead:

So can anyone chime in on the types of fittings I may need? Especially for the hard lines. Can I find the necessary fittings at places such as harborfreight (or some other store that sells air accessories)?

Where can I get a 1 to 4 manifold (splitter) like joelzy has (2nd picture). Do I need to make it? 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4783463-Budget-Relia-build

Where are some good places to mount the paddle switches? Joelzy mounted them on the side of the shift surround, and in the ecstuning air ride video (the red jetta) the paddles were mounted under the headlight switch, but I havent found much else

Any ideas? Suggestions? Sorry for the long post, I just wanna get all my crap together, so I can order everything at once and save as much as I can on shipping.


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## Tucked (Jun 12, 2007)

> air Tank - Probably going with a 5 gallon, probably a raw finish (for painting or polishing) but I am not sure how many ports I need
> 
> I need 1 port for the compressor, 1 (maybe even 4 depending how I set this up) for the air output to the bags, than I need various ports for safety valve (is this necessary?), a schrader valve (which I probably dont need to have that on the tank at all times), a dump valve and a drain ****. Than I will also need a port for the tank gauge. So all in all, I need 8 ports, unless a lot of that stuff is unnecessary and does have to be on the tank at all times.


You should only need:
+ (1) Compressor
+ (4) To paddle valves
+ (1) Shrader
+ (1) Drain cocck
+ (1) Gauge Pressure

You shouldn't need any safety valves, and you can dump your tank with the shrader or drain cocck. Also your max pressure depends on what compressor you're running. 145 is good for the 400c, if you're running 380 then go for a sensor closer to the 200psi max it can handle. The differences between the compressors is in the duty cycle. The 400 will fill your tank faster, but can only be run 33% of the time (4m 40s). The 380 can be run 100% of the time but is slower (7ish minutes). 0-145psi. The 400c does draw more, but I wouldn't worry about it. If your lights start to dim then use a capacitor. I would easily chose the 400c. 

Good luck!


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## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

You are referring to the pressure switch right? With the 380, I should go to 200 psi (or close to) sensor, why is that? 

I also dont really understand the 400cc compressor cycle thing. The 400 can only be ran for around 4 min or so continuously? On the bagriders website, it says the 380 can go 0-145 in about 7-8 min and if I remember correctly, the 400 isnt that much faster (for 0-145 psi fill time) so does that mean that the 400 cannot fill an empty tank without taking a break?


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## Tucked (Jun 12, 2007)

bboy_jon said:


> You are referring to the pressure switch right? With the 380, I should go to 200 psi (or close to) sensor, why is that?
> 
> I also dont really understand the 400cc compressor cycle thing. The 400 can only be ran for around 4 min or so continuously? On the bagriders website, it says the 380 can go 0-145 in about 7-8 min and if I remember correctly, the 400 isnt that much faster (for 0-145 psi fill time) so does that mean that the 400 cannot fill an empty tank without taking a break?


The duty cycle won't really effect much. IIRC You can run the 400 for 10 minutes on, 20 minutes off. I have dual 400's so it's never a problem anyway. It won't take a break halfway through. Just don't play with your switches for 15 minutes straight. 7-8 minutes is a lonnnng time. I highly recommend spending a bit more and getting dual 400's.


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## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

Yeah I was told (in my mkiv forum thread) to look into the 444, and since it is only $15 or so more than the 380 I will probably go with that. 

The compressor only turns on when the tank pressure gets below a certain threshold right (whatever size pressure switch I have) so, as long as I dont play with the switches too much, the compressor wont have to pump too often? How long (I guess how many ups and downs  ) does 5 gallons last?


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## DJ_Euphoria (Aug 16, 2010)

lots of good info in this thread.

keep it coming. i'm bagging my car very soon. :thumbup:


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## weber. (Mar 25, 2009)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4783463-Budget-Relia-build

might help a tad.


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## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

Do I need an oil/water seperator? The viair compressors are oiless, but I see everyone running one and what size is the fitting on the end of the compressors braided line?

Also, I am looking into air line sizes. The easy street gauges accept 1/8, and have a 1/4 adapter correct? What if I want to run 3/8 lines (from the bags) to the gauges, would I need more adapters? Should I just run 1/4 lines to the bags for simplicity? How slow would they fill?

I would need 1/4x1/4x1/4 (or 1/8) t's correct? (for the split from the bag to the gauge) 

I would need plastic type ones like this?

http://www.bagriders.com/modlab/products/DIGITAL-GAUGE-TEE.html


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## Tucked (Jun 12, 2007)

bboy_jon said:


> Do I need an oil/water seperator? The viair compressors are oiless, but I see everyone running one and what size is the fitting on the end of the compressors braided line?
> 
> Also, I am looking into air line sizes. The easy street gauges accept 1/8, and have a 1/4 adapter correct? What if I want to run 3/8 lines (from the bags) to the gauges, would I need more adapters? Should I just run 1/4 lines to the bags for simplicity? How slow would they fill?
> 
> ...


There are always debates about water traps. When it comes down to it, why not spend the $30 on one for peace of mind? Its not going to break anyones budget. I wouldn't recommend running the 3\8 air line to the gauges because you'll need to find that reducer (more $) and it's hard to route that thick line to the proper place. The 1\8 is easy as pie. As for the fitting mess, why not just get a complete kit from bagriders.com? It'll include all you need.



bboy_jon said:


> Yeah I was told (in my mkiv forum thread) to look into the 444, and since it is only $15 or so more than the 380 I will probably go with that.
> 
> The compressor only turns on when the tank pressure gets below a certain threshold right (whatever size pressure switch I have) so, as long as I dont play with the switches too much, the compressor wont have to pump too often? How long (I guess how many ups and downs  ) does 5 gallons last?



Correct, for instance, if the pressure switch says (110-145) that means it will let the tank go to 110psi then fill it back up to 145psi. A 5 gallon tank will last about 4 up\downs in my experience.


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## fasttt600 (Apr 12, 2007)

Get vair dual needle gauges(people seem to like them better than the easy street ones). If you want a fast fill time...get 400 comp. If you want less noise...get 444's.


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## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

is that 4 up downs for each bag or in total (ie, I can completely raise once before it needs to fill?) I wasnt planning on running 3/8 for the gauges, I just used the bagriders link as an example  I am probably just going to do a full 1/4 install mainly because I cannot find any 3/8 t's (3/8x1/4x1/4) I want to run 3/8 to the bags, split to a 1/4 (or 1/8) for the gauge, and 1/4 back to the air tank, but I cannot find any T's that are that size, do they exist? Does bagriders sell a fitting pack? I cannot find anything on their site. I also think it might be a waste to get a fitting pack, especially if I run hard lines. 

Does anyone know what size the fittings are (included with the viair compressors)?

What do the easy street and viair gauges look like when illuminated? I cant find anything on google


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## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

So I am still looking for tanks, but I decided to make a rendering with a tank that I have actually found

http://www.bagriders.com/modlab/products/ANODIZED-ALUMINUM-5-GALLON-TANK.html

Not just that but, stainless steel hard lines are pretty dam expensive arent they? I will probably end up having to just go with copper lines :/























































I am considering this tank as well

http://www.ridetech.com/store/suspe...w-3-3-8-ports-2-1-4-ports-and-1-1-8-port.html

The only problem with that tank ^^^ is the drain port is 1/8, and I havent been able to find a 1/8 drain ****, but I could just use a standard plug couldnt I? 

Also, with these latest renderings, the center hardline, would go to the pump. Is there anyway I could hook a schrader/inflation valve to the hard line? I will probably use push to connect fittings for the hard lines and the inflation valve is an ntp fitting (are there non ntp ones?). I cant seem to find a ptc T fitting that branches off to a female ntp. 

I probably dont need the schrader permanently on there though right? I can just carry it with me and bolt it in just in case something goes wrong?


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## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

dammit so I just realized that the pressure switch needs to be connected to the tank; I figured they installed on the compressor or something.

How do I wire the relay? 40 amp enough? Maybe I will just purchase the viair pressureswitch/relay combo. Can I connect the 12v ignition to the 12v remote on signal for my amplifier?


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## Tucked (Jun 12, 2007)

bboy_jon said:


> dammit so I just realized that the pressure switch needs to be connected to the tank


Whoops, totally forgot about that as well haha. 

As for the relay, your compressors will come with them. The diagram provided will explain everything.


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## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

the compressor comes with it? Is it a viair relay/pressure switch or just the relay? 

Where do I hook the 12v ignition to? I just realized that the amp remote turn on is usually 5 volts. 

Does it matter where I hook the pressure switch? I was thinking of placing it along one of the hardlines on a T fitting. (ie, it wont be directly on the tank) 

Does anyone know of a good source for air tanks? I have looked through most of the popular ones (air assisted, suicide doors, bag riders, etc) but cant seem to find anything I really want


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## newmatics (Jan 29, 2010)

bboy_jon said:


> the compressor comes with it? Is it a viair relay/pressure switch or just the relay?
> 
> Where do I hook the 12v ignition to? I just realized that the amp remote turn on is usually 5 volts.
> 
> ...


Yes the compressor comes with a 40AMP relay and a pressure switch. Pressure switch goes on one of your tank ports so it can serve its purpose when pressure falls below certain Psi it kicks the compressor ON by itself and OFF when it reaches the max limit ( e.g Viair 400C compressor comes with 110/145 Psi Pressure switch , means 110 ON and 145 Psi OFF ). For complete wiring diagrams go to www.viaircorp.com or you can e mail me at [email protected]. I hope it will be a little help from my side on something.


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## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

sweet! All the management kits that I was previously looking at made it seem like the relays and pressure switches were seperate items 

But, I just checked the viair site

http://www.viaircorp.com/OnRoad/380C.html

It doesnt show (or say) anything about having an included relay/switch?

So, it wouldnt matter if I had the pressure switch not directly plugged into a tank port right? I could have it a long one of the hard lines and it would be fine?


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## newmatics (Jan 29, 2010)

bboy_jon said:


> sweet! All the management kits that I was previously looking at made it seem like the relays and pressure switches were seperate items
> 
> But, I just checked the viair site
> 
> ...


Every single compressor from Viair comes with a 40 AMP relay and pressure switch ( Like 380C, 480C,400C and 450C and even 460C) I am going to be a sponsor or have an advertisement section here soon. Currently i am sponsoring my own S10 Forum section. You can always e mail me at [email protected] and since i am not currently advertising here I am not going to put any deals forward as its against the forum policy i think and I don't believe in taking business from the vendors who are paying to advertise here. You can check my signature if you want to but i will be advertising here in a matter of a week or so.

Check out S1o section here http://www.s10forum.com/forum/newmatics-inc/


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## arethirdytwo (Apr 4, 2007)

5 gal here and xl fronts and ah2 rears. I get one full lift before they come on. 2 400's pretty quick. No way in hell you see four lifts on a tank.


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## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

Only 1 lift from 5 gallon? I guess thats whatever but, it sucks that you cant really "play" with the switches 

So do I really need a water/oil trap? The viair compressors are all oil-less arent they? I plan on draining the tank frequently. 

The tank I have decided on has all 1/2 ports. I looked everywhere, but I cant seem to find a male 1/2 npt to 1/4 ptc. Do they not exist? They have 1/4 npt to 1/2 ptc, and everything else in between  

IF they dont exist, I just need to use reducers right?


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## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

Do anyone have (or can post up) any pictures of gauges when they are illuminated? I have searched everywhere and found nothing. I am going with either easy street dual needles or the viair ones, but I am curious as to what they look like at night. 

Is there a large noise difference between the 380c and 444c compressors? The fill time differences are not that large and if one is substantially quieter, I might go with that one

Also, are there any bags (that work with the d-cup brackets) that do not require cutting/trimming the spring cut (to avoid blowing the bag at lower psi's)


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## newmatics (Jan 29, 2010)

bboy_jon said:


> Only 1 lift from 5 gallon? I guess thats whatever but, it sucks that you cant really "play" with the switches
> 
> So do I really need a water/oil trap? The viair compressors are all oil-less arent they? I plan on draining the tank frequently.
> 
> ...


Where do you want to use these fittings, I mean what port size bags ?


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## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

I am going to run 1/4 lines all around. Bags will have 1/4 fittings as well. I contemplated doing 3/8 fittings but the paddle valves will slow all the flow down anyways. 

Another question. It doesnt matter where I put the pressure switch right? I am making a mock up, and figuring out all the fittings I need and so far the plan is 

From tank ->reducer ->hardline -> bulkhead -> air line -> branch tee -> splits off to another air line (which has a schrader inflation valve attached) and the pressure switch. 

Will that be fine or is it necessary for the pressure switch to be directly connected to the tank? I assume it will be fine? 

Would it be bad to put it right after the compressor leader hose?


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## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

question about d-cup brackets. Where does the fitting go? Based on this picture (from Joelzy's build) 

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i113/dorbritz/Budget airbag build/DSC_0635.jpg

The fitting is enclosed in the bracket...do you need drill a hole through the bracket or something? 

I am trying to choose the rear bags, between re-5's or air house 2's. Regardless of which one I go with, I will have to trim the spring cup a bit (to avoid rubbing at lower psi) right?


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## newmatics (Jan 29, 2010)

bboy_jon said:


> I am going to run 1/4 lines all around. Bags will have 1/4 fittings as well. I contemplated doing 3/8 fittings but the paddle valves will slow all the flow down anyways.
> 
> Another question. It doesnt matter where I put the pressure switch right? I am making a mock up, and figuring out all the fittings I need and so far the plan is
> 
> ...



No the pressure switch needs to be on the tank as if you put it on the airline it won,t work as you know these pressure switches work at a certain PSI ON and OFF so how your airline will get to 200 Psi and shut the compressor OFF ( i am talking about 165/200 Psi Pressure switch)


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## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

Hmmm. Well, i have seen a lot of people putting their tank gauges along their hard lines. So if a gauge can get the pressure of the tank when not directly connected wouldnt a pressure switch work as well? I have seen so many setups and only a few of them have their switches connected directly to the tank


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

arethirdytwo said:


> 5 gal here and xl fronts and ah2 rears. I get one full lift before they come on. 2 400's pretty quick. No way in hell you see four lifts on a tank.


Would you like to bet? 
Well technically i have two tanks haha, but they act as 1.


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## newmatics (Jan 29, 2010)

bboy_jon said:


> Hmmm. Well, i have seen a lot of people putting their tank gauges along their hard lines. So if a gauge can get the pressure of the tank when not directly connected wouldnt a pressure switch work as well? I have seen so many setups and only a few of them have their switches connected directly to the tank


gauges have different mechanism in them and those gauges are analog ( means with needles) the gauges read pressure from tank but they are directly hooked to a line coming out of tank just for pressure in tank. where as Pressure switches have SPDT ( single pole double throw) means a relay connection which actuates on on the preset limits. So that is why pressure switches are mounted on the tank so they can work according to pressure they have in your tank.


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## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

I really dont see why it would be any different from a gauge though. The switch is activated based on the pressure. If gauges can read the same pressure, whether connected to a line, or directly to the tank, why cant the switch read the same pressure? 

What if I were to run a branch tee (directly from the compressor). The switch is on one branch, and something else goes on the other branch. That would be able to detect the tank pressure wouldnt it? How would that be any different than running through a line?

Btw, I'm not trying to argue as I really have no experience in this at all, I am just trying to make sense of things. I already came up with the setup, whatever fittings I need, and ordered a tank so I really dont want to stray too far off of my plans


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

newmatics said:


> gauges have different mechanism in them and those gauges are analog ( means with needles) the gauges read pressure from tank but they are directly hooked to a line coming out of tank just for pressure in tank. where as Pressure switches have SPDT ( single pole double throw) means a relay connection which actuates on on the preset limits. So that is why pressure switches are mounted on the tank so they can work according to pressure they have in your tank.


I am going to correct you here. I have my pressure switch mounted off of a line that runs to a manifold under my floor and it works fine there. 

Reasoning....The pressure in the tank is a certain pressure, the pressure in the line is that same pressure, doesn't matter if its hundreds of feet away, it will be the exact same pressure. So it doesn't really matter where you mount it, as long as it is connected somehow to the pipe without any shut off valves in between you should be good. And the only reason i say no valves in between is because you may turn it off and forget to turn it back 

I will also correct you on the types of switches. Needle gauges are analog type, but the other type are not SPDT, they are digital. You use a SPDT switch if you want to read between two different pressures (AKA one gauge and two pressure transmitters). The digital gauge basically reads the pressure of the air through a diaphram and converts the force into a voltage in this case if i am not mistaken. There are pressure gauges that read amps but i believe these ones are voltages. So if its reading say 10 psi it could send a 1 volt signal back to the gauge or ECU or whatever you are sending it to, and at 60 psi it could send 6 volts (numbers are just thrown in for demonstration purpose and are not real)


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

bboy_jon said:


> I really dont see why it would be any different from a gauge though. The switch is activated based on the pressure. If gauges can read the same pressure, whether connected to a line, or directly to the tank, why cant the switch read the same pressure?
> 
> What if I were to run a branch tee (directly from the compressor). The switch is on one branch, and something else goes on the other branch. That would be able to detect the tank pressure wouldnt it? How would that be any different than running through a line?
> 
> Btw, I'm not trying to argue as I really have no experience in this at all, I am just trying to make sense of things. I already came up with the setup, whatever fittings I need, and ordered a tank so I really dont want to stray too far off of my plans


You sir are correct. You can run a branched tee off of a compressor, you can run a tee in between the tank and the manifold, basically anywhere between the check valves of the compressors and the beginning of the manifold.

Do not listen to this "advertiser". He clearly does not know his stuff


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## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

Thats what I was thinking (the line pressure would be the same as the tank).

I just got done reading a thread on another forum where the topic starter was having problems with his switch. He had his a little bit less than a foot away from the tank. He was having some "burping" issues (compressor would turn on for a second, turn off. Turn on randomly, etc). The guy at Viair said people have had similar problems and that it can be solved by putting the switch directly on the tank. The OP's switch ended up being faulty and it works fine away from the tank. :thumbup:


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## newmatics (Jan 29, 2010)

MechEngg said:


> You sir are correct. You can run a branched tee off of a compressor, you can run a tee in between the tank and the manifold, basically anywhere between the check valves of the compressors and the beginning of the manifold.
> 
> Do not listen to this "advertiser". He clearly does not know his stuff


That's it bring some thing more out because I think you were not satisfied with the pm,s by the way I am not advertising here so I am not selling or offered to sell anything. And by the way I know what an ecu is and spdt is and thanks for sharing more knowledge. You are so full of it that next time if I have a question I will directly pm you. Is that right?? So now cool down your jets mr "know everything". Good luck with sharing abundance of knowledge overflowing through you.


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## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

Man, once again. Ordered the dam tank from another site and yet again, back ordered :banghead:


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## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

Question: I am looking into different tanks again and I was wondering. Some tanks dont have bottom drain ports. Are drain ports not necessary if I run water traps?


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

bboy_jon said:


> Question: I am looking into different tanks again and I was wondering. Some tanks dont have bottom drain ports. Are drain ports not necessary if I run water traps?


I would HIGHLY recommend a drain port on the bottom of your tank. No matter where you run your water trap you will still end up with water in the tank.

say for instance you run your water trap between your compressor and your tank, the air is quite hot sometimes and therefore contains a bit of water vapour which passes through the water trap and ends up in the tank. 

If you were to run your trap between the tank and your valves then the same is true, your tank will fill with hot air, condense and form water on the sides of the tank. I recommend running your trap in this location because you don't ever get water in your valves and bags. 

Hope this helps :thumbup:


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## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

Thats what I figured. Sucks that the only tank I want is backordered everywhere. 

Where is the best place to wire the 12v ignition/on (from the relay)?


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

It has a very little amp draw so i just wired mine in off the back of a fuse. Same one that i tapped into for my head unit for my stereo if that helps  If you need an actual fuse number i can search for it or take apart my car


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## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

If you really dont mind than I would appreciate it


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

bboy_jon said:


> If you really dont mind than I would appreciate it


Tap into 75x


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## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

Awesome! What other stuff is connected to that terminal? 

also, about the water traps between the tank and valves. I was originally planning on having one between the compressor and tank (as well as one between the schrader valve and tank for sake of symmetry) but would it be better to just ditch the trap between the compressor and tank and use it before the valves? I guess it would since water is going to build up in the tank anyways.


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

bboy_jon said:


> Awesome! What other stuff is connected to that terminal?
> 
> also, about the water traps between the tank and valves. I was originally planning on having one between the compressor and tank (as well as one between the schrader valve and tank for sake of symmetry) but would it be better to just ditch the trap between the compressor and tank and use it before the valves? I guess it would since water is going to build up in the tank anyways.


Well personally i would run it after the tank and before the valves. This way your tank will get all the water and the trap should just get any extra residual coming through the line (almost none). 

Myself i have somewhat of a different setup, since i got two tanks i decided to run both of my OB2's into my smaller 3 gallon tank, then plumb my trap in on the way to the 5 gallon tank. This first 3 gallon tank was essentially used to start cooling down the air before it hits the water trap. That way the second larger tank which is attached to all of my instruments etc doesn't have any water in it ever. I also plumbed my water trap into the bottom of my 5 gallon tank so that any water i had condense in the tank would drip down into the water trap. Its an elaborate setup and probably unnecessary but i hope it will save me some headaches in the canadian winters.

Pics for reference:
- You will see the water trap under the box of the 5 gallon tank and the plumbing goes directly into the trap
- you can see on the bottom right of the box that is where i have my pressure gauges and switches run to off of the tank, and it works just fine.


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## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

Awesome, I will probably do that then. Btw that is the tank I so desperately want, ordered twice and had to be refunded. No one has it in stock :banghead::banghead::banghead: Where did you get yours from? Bagriders?

I want to get a new tank but I know as soon as the other one comes in, they will be off back order. I just need it now so I can start building my stuff :/


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

bboy_jon said:


> Awesome, I will probably do that then. Btw that is the tank I so desperately want, ordered twice and had to be refunded. No one has it in stock :banghead::banghead::banghead: Where did you get yours from? Bagriders?
> 
> I want to get a new tank but I know as soon as the other one comes in, they will be off back order. I just need it now so I can start building my stuff :/


Yeah i got almost all my stuff from bagriders.

I got the 7 port and i really should have gotten the 4 port, woulda just been easier than 4 plugs hahaha.


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## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

Their 4 port does not have a drain port (I guess it wouldnt be a problem in your case) so thats why I cant do it :banghead:


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Yeah thats why i went 7 port, now i remember haha. Maybe i will just get them welded up by my buddy. Might be easier and look cleaner


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## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

Alright, so I think I might try and buy the rear bags tonight. Pretty much down to Re-5's or air house IIs with dcups. Any reason I should choose one over the other? Will at bagriders told me that the spring cup wont have to be trimmed but everyone else on here has had to do it, whats the verdict on that? 

Any advice for shocks? I am looking for shocks that ride well at both low and raised heights. Adjustable dampeners would be nice as well as I plan on riding pretty close to the tire. 

Anyone have experience with koni reds? WRDUSA has them for about $80 and it says they are adjustable.


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## newmatics (Jan 29, 2010)

bboy_jon said:


> Thats what I figured. Sucks that the only tank I want is backordered everywhere.
> 
> Where is the best place to wire the 12v ignition/on (from the relay)?


What size tank you are looking for 5 gallon or 7 gallon or even bigger and in aluminum or steel. Just look on my site and you will see a lot of tank choices. Every tank I have there is in stock no back orders.


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

newmatics said:


> What size tank you are looking for 5 gallon or 7 gallon or even bigger and in aluminum or steel. Just look on my site and you will see a lot of tank choices. Every tank I have there is in stock no back orders.


OP,

I honestly wouldn't buy from the "vendor". He has been extremely rude to myself and tells me that he "doesn't give a rats a**" about his customers. He also tells me that he gave you false information on purpose because he thinks you are a fool and don't know anything about airride. 

I have everything saved in my PMs if you would like me to send it to you for you to give it a read. It really shows a lot about someone :thumbdown:


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## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

hahaha. Thats pretty awesome. Sucks too since he has some nice prices, but Ill pay the extra buck or two to not buy from him then.

PM the convo or e-mail me at [email protected] Should make for a fun read  

Obviously, I wasnt as foolish as he thought since I was questioning the whole "pressure sensor directly on the tank" thing.


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## Dave_In_Florida (Jun 3, 2009)

newmatics said:


> gauges have different mechanism in them and those gauges are analog ( means with needles) the gauges read pressure from tank but they are directly hooked to a line coming out of tank just for pressure in tank. where as Pressure switches have SPDT ( single pole double throw) means a relay connection which actuates on on the preset limits. So that is why pressure switches are mounted on the tank so they can work according to pressure they have in your tank.


That's the dumbest thing I've ever heard. This is obviously someone who knows NOTHING about what they are talking about. It is good sig material though


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## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

it also doesnt make any sense


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## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

So I am looking into water traps. Everyone seems to get the SMC ones. I am looking into the avs traps (chrome/polished one) does anyone have experience with them? Or should I just stick with the smc (which is cheaper compared to the avs)


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

bboy_jon said:


> So I am looking into water traps. Everyone seems to get the SMC ones. I am looking into the avs traps (chrome/polished one) does anyone have experience with them? Or should I just stick with the smc (which is cheaper compared to the avs)


I went with the SMC water trap and it holds up extremely well, even to 200psi which i run in my tanks (even though its only rated to 150psi). I talked to a certain seller, won't name names, but they recommended the SMC over the neumatics water traps, and the neumatics fittings over the alkon brand fittings. :thumbup:

I have no experience or have never heard of AVS traps so i cannot comment on them, sorry


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## bboy_jon (Jan 19, 2010)

I see. Yeah, Ive searched this forum and even on google, not too many people seem to run the avs traps. The only one that I saw was a guy who bought one and went with smc


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