# Lean on Warmup Megasquirt MK2 16vT



## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

My warmup enrichment and afterstart are both good as far as the maps go, but I've been running really lean on warmup for the past couple of weeks as if there is no warmup enrichment at all. Where I used to be in the 13.5:1ish range when warming, I'm now at 17+. I didn't adjust anything in MS recently so I've been assuming its parts related, not software. Didn't see a 'turn enrichment off' option either that may have gotten clicked. I'm wondering if my intank fuel pump (which I've suspected to be going out) is dying and causing these issues but my fuel pressure is consistent as it's always been. Would a dying fuel pump be providing enough pressure AND be causing a lean condition? Although I seem to regain richness as I drive, I've been staying out of boost just to be safe. Stock fuel pumps, 42lb injectors, 3.5 psi 1.8t fpr and fuel rails, don't know if there are other things I should list. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

fakename said:


> My warmup enrichment and afterstart are both good as far as the maps go, but I've been running really lean on warmup for the past couple of weeks as if there is no warmup enrichment at all. Where I used to be in the 13.5:1ish range when warming, I'm now at 17+. I didn't adjust anything in MS recently so I've been assuming its parts related, not software. Didn't see a 'turn enrichment off' option either that may have gotten clicked. I'm wondering if my intank fuel pump (which I've suspected to be going out) is dying and causing these issues but my fuel pressure is consistent as it's always been. Would a dying fuel pump be providing enough pressure AND be causing a lean condition? Although I seem to regain richness as I drive, I've been staying out of boost just to be safe. Stock fuel pumps, 42lb injectors, 3.5 psi 1.8t fpr and fuel rails, don't know if there are other things I should list. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks.


Sounds to me like you possibly have an injector issue. They can get clogged enough to misbehave at idle but off idle when fuel pressure rises the additional pressure is enough to open them fully.


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

That's not a bad thought, within the past year I ran some sea-foam through my tank. Think they would need a more comprehensive cleaning than that?


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

fakename said:


> That's not a bad thought, within the past year I ran some sea-foam through my tank. Think they would need a more comprehensive cleaning than that?


I would check their flow rate at idle pressure. Which version MS are you running? MS2/Extra and MS3 firmwares both have test mode that will allow you to do that.


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

I have MS1. Recommend how I would go about testing their rates? (Update, dropped injectors off to get cleaned and tested. Fingers crossed that they're dirty :thumbup

Also, I just finished converting to a single fuel pump system as seen here as I was going to do that anyway. Problem is still there, so you might be right about my injectors.

Forgot to mention... I remember in one of my posts somewhere about MS that I can turn off what I think is my EGO correction-having MS use my wideband to adjust my afr in real time. Can't seem to find that anywhere on TS. Am I way off? My wideband stopped working so I replaced it with the same unit but now I'm not getting any afr read in TS (but don't remember if it was reading before). So I'm partly wondering if it's trying to correct my fuel without getting a signal. Just a thought.


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

I had my injectors cleaned and tested and they were fine. Installed them with new o rings and it fired up and idled well. Took a test drive around the block and while trying to give it gas at a stop light it bogged down with each blip of the throttle but returned to a steady idle until it ultimately died. And now it's not starting. So I'm suspecting a vacuum leak or maybe a bad MAF? I'm still such an MS noob I'm assuming it's MAF as opposed to MAP. Would a bad one keep it from firing up? New pump, clean injectors, and 2 days of work and now it's worse. The first of many times that this will happen, now I know what that feels like...

Edit: It's running off an MAP. Would a bad one keep it from firing?


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Depends on how you have it setup for ASE.

I have my O2 correction set for above 160F and above around 1300rpm just so it doesn't mess with w/u and idle. I'm not very familiar w/ MS2, but it shouldn't be that hard to find. Have you tried looking in the megamanual for settings explanations?


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

Thanks, I did look in the manual and did some general searching. You're right, mine is set up similarly to yours for after 1500 and 150*.

Is there a pretty common MAP sensor that you guys use for MS? I'm thinking I'll need to replace mine.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

The one mounted on the board, should be able to get it from any MS supplier like DIY Autotune. Have you tested it with a vacuum form a syringe9or the motor running and rev'ing it) and with the puter hooked up? I've never seen one go bad, but I suppose it could.


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

Apparently it is pretty uncommon for them to go bad. Don't know if it would effect my car cranking anyway, seems like it would only use the cts and just run off my maps. Maybe not though. So now I'm trying to think... (thinking is hard :facepalm: ) Here's what I know: I hear my pump prime and after I crank I hear it shut off, I have clean injectors, more than half a tank of gas, I reused my fuel filter but it was only 6 months old, maybe it's clogged already? Would just need one bad tank I guess. I haven't explored the idea that this could be a spark issue because it's been running lean for the last couple of weeks but maybe I'm overlooking something. Now it cranks as if it's getting no fuel at all...


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Have you checked fuel pressure at rail? and checked for spark?


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

Haven't checked for spark nor do I smell fuel when I'm trying to start it. I do remember fuel pressure only being around 20 psi during cranking, but it's an inline gauge so I rarely see it when I'm trying to start the car. It's usually a consistent 40ish when at idle so should probably be the same while cranking yeah?


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Does MS/tunerstudio show rpm when you are cranking? If no rpm, there will be no spark and no injector pulse.


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

I'm not sure to be honest. I know that my dash reads my rpms. Unfortunately I'm working all day and had to borrow my mom's car to get here so I can't just jump out and do small tests, I feel a little stuck. But I did quickly stop by the car this morning hoping it might start cold and plugged my laptop in. I'm assuming TS is still reading my rpms because I remember all my TS gauges were moving during cranking, I just wasn't looking specifically at their behavior.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

MS only has a few inputs and RPM is a pretty important one. Without it, the ECU has no idea you are even trying to start the motor. And the pc is part of the beauty of troubleshooting MS, you see everything it sees, unlike digi or cis. Use the info you get from the TS dash to help figure out what is going on.


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

MS shows rpms during cranking. I can't seem to get any fuel pressure though. New pump (tested per bentley and is definitely pumping fuel), new filter, even through a hail-mary new fpr in that didn't make a difference. I'm going broke doing the wrong thing which is throwing parts at it, but all diagnosis and process of elimination hasn't been helping me. I pulled the injectors and cranked with them facing a paper towel and at first only 3 fired. I swapped the bad one with the harness from a good one and it still didn't fire, then another one didn't fire either. So now only 2 injectors are working? I just had them cleaned and tested yesterday so that can't be the problem. Maybe because my fuel pressure is low they're not being fed adequately? What could be keeping me from having good fuel pressure?


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

So, you have pressure at the fuel rail?

What injectors are firing and hoe are they wired to the MS? Which ones are on the same bank? Could be wiring harness or the MS unit. Specifically the injector driver circuit or grounds.


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

No, I don't have pressure at the fuel rail. I'm not exactly sure how the injectors are wired, PO did the install. Would that have to do with the injector staging? It's 'alternating' in TS. Traced the wires as best as I could and I'm pretty sure they're all grounding.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

You should have two injectors on each bank. If he used an harness from one of the better vendors, one bank will have a green wire and the other will have a red wire. The MS fires the injectors by providing the the ground (called "ground switching"), are the two "working" injectors on the same bank or not? That is the first thing to find.

And no pressure at the rail could mean no power to FP or a blockage in supply.


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

I see. Inj 3 didn't work, swapped harness with inj 4 and it still didn't work. Inj 4 worked both times even on different harnesses, inj 3 didn't work either time on either harness. 

Harness for inj 1-blu/wht
inj 2-grn/wht
inj 3-grn/wht
inj 4-blu/wht

So I've tried inj 3 on a green and a blue and still didn't work. Sorry for the redundancy, I feel like I just wrote that a bunch of times. I'd like to just take the injs back to the shop that cleaned and tested them to make sure they're still good but they're not open today. They're probably here, at Waterwerks on the green, which is exactly where I was hoping to be today


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

looks like you may have a clogged or bad injector. Have you checked it with an ohm meter to see if it tests the same as the others?


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

I was actually just about to post. I went back out, left it all hooked up the way it was and cranked, all injectors pulsed fuel. I think I've got gremlins in my system or something. My spark plugs look pretty fouled so I'm researching about which ones to buy for 16vt and then I'll put those in before I try cranking it with all pieces back together. Things aren't really adding up though so I still don't know exactly what my problems are...


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## ValveCoverGasket (Mar 20, 2002)

fakename said:


> Things aren't really adding up though so I still don't know exactly what my problems are...


just skimmed the thread, but it sounds like something electrical. like intermittent harness issues of some sort.


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

OK, time to update. Tested pressure everywhere in my fuel system from the rail back to the pump. Finally pulled the pump for a third time to check that I didn't mess it up. And guess what? I messed it up. I reused the stock hose going from the pump to the pump housing because it's 5/16" to 3/8" openings and the stock hose accommodates that. But at over 20 years old, I think wiggling it back and forth to install and re-install it made it leak. So now I've got fuel pressure again. When I realized it was no longer and SEM problem I stopped posting here. But thanks for all the help.

But now I'm back to a Megasquirt question. I'm not getting spark. I've replaced my plugs because they're cheap and looked pretty fouled, I've tested my plug wires continuity from end to end and all but one are good. I've bypassed the distributor for now going from the 1st cylinder plug directly to the output tower on my coil, grounding the threads of the plug, and cranking. I'm not getting a spark. I tested the coil and it was a bit out of spec so I bought a new one. Still not getting spark. I've got power to the coil and a solid ground. Now I'm wondering about my brown wire coming from my MS. It's going to the neg- post on my coil and is pretty corroded so I'm going to replace the end. How can I test that wire to make sure that it's sending the correct signal? Am I right that it should be sending power rather than a ground? MS 1 v2


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Triggering coil directly or are you using an ICM? Is the MS modded to trigger coil directly?


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

I assume it triggers directly because the brown wire goes straight from ecu to coil.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Then you need to check your settings for coil control and ensure you have dwell settings correct, as you can damage the coil and poss MS.


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

Here are my dwell settings. They haven't changed since about 5 days ago when I was getting spark


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## ValveCoverGasket (Mar 20, 2002)

you can use an LED test light on ms outputs in the harness to test the ecu/config/harness to eliminate any possible coil/icm issues


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

Oh, ok. I have just a regular test light and multimeter, I've yet to deal with the ecu at all since having this car so I don't know how specifically I would test the outputs, can you tell me more about that? Jake (jrm) just mentioned that I might have an old vb921 something that are known to fail and suggested that I pull the ecu to look. Are there ways of testing those too?

I'd like to just hook my meter up to the brown wire and see if it grounds or sends power (I don't know which it's suppose to do). Should it only send signal when cranking/all the time? If I can test that wire I can eliminate whether or not my issue is in the ecu.


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

Looks like I've got a v3 board, not a v2. Also have the bip coil driver not the older one. I have continuity on the brown wire and the driver looks good. I've got no lights to my ecu when I fire it up though, kind of strange. I've noticed that the tach on my laptop reads while cranking but tach on my dash doesn't, does that seem weird to you guys? What about my hall sender, if I'm going directly from my coil to a plug and bypassing my dist, would the hall sender effect whether I'd see a spark?


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

The hall sender is what is creating the rpm signal. The MS tach is from the hall sender, the car's tach is from the negative terminal on coil. So either the coil has failed, or no power to coil or no ground from MS to fire coil.


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

Ok, so the ground comes from MS. Can I check the impedance from the MS wire to ground when cranking to check that it's sending ground?

Well, I just went ahead and did this. Connected the MS coil wire to multimeter, other end to neg terminal on battery, cranked over and the read out jumped around but didn't read anything consistent. Then switched it to volts, changed multimeter end to power on battery and cranked over hoping that it would see 12v when the MS wire grounded. Jumped around but didn't show more than .05 volts. But if it's grounding based on the hall sender, seems like it would ground too quickly to get a read on the meter. Am I way off?


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

I just put a test light between the MS ground wire and the pos+ terminal on the battery and cranked over. I expected to see the light flashing but it didn't do anything. Then I tested the coil again but in a more basic way close to as seen here. Coil is good (wish I had tested it this way before I bought a new one :facepalm, so my problem is definitely the ground to the coil. But because I get a tach signal on my laptop, my hall sender is good right? I've also checked continuity on the ground wire from ecu to coil and it's good. So that only leaves my ignition control driver, right?


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Don't remember w/o looking, inverted or not, what is yours at?


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

Inverted-yes

I've also been looking at this schematic of the bip373. I've tested each pin's impedance and voltage. All pins do something so it's not like there's a bad one from what I can tell. There is continuity between pin E and the output pin on the db37. Some pin combinations are getting 12V so it's getting enough power. I could write down exactly which pins do what with the multimeter but only if you think it'll help determine if the driver is bad (long list).


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

It's been too long since my electronics tech schooling, so it wouldn't do me much good. Maybe somebody else or google can answer that question.

Is this set correctly?


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

I sure don't know what any of that means. Is part of it designating which signals get the leds on the ecu? None of the lights on my box are lighting up when it gets power, any idea what that means?


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

The top half sets what kind of ignition you are using, it needs to be set to "MSnS" as shown for your setup. 

The bottom is outputs, generally this would also be how yours is setup. If you have a save msq file from when the car was running, that would bea good tune to load and start a recovery from. But now that you have your TS registered, you can do a "compare tune" with and earlier tune and the current one to see what has changed(not sure if that function is available on the "lite" version).


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

Oh, I gotcha. I found mine, looks the same.










Do you suggest running a recovery? Is that like a reboot or something? I haven't made any changes to my file since it was driving last.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

With TS offline, you can load the current tune, then under "file" select "compare tune" and then select the tune you want to compare, if there are differences, TS will show them to you with settings highlighted in yellow and changes to VE and spark tables in red or blue. That is a quick and easy way to see if some settings have changed that you may have missed.


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

Oh, good thinking. I'm still running the free version though so I'll see if I have that function.


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

Looks like difference reporting is only on the registered version. I can take screenshots of different tunes and compare them like that though. Any places you'd recommend I look based on the problems I'm having? Spark obviously, but are there specific options to look for?


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

All of them, cause you either have a setting issue or a hardware issue.


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

Sounds good, I'll do that then. Edit: just checked and all software values are the same.

But one last test on my hall sender just to make sure. I unplugged it's harness at the dist, tapped the signal wire to ground, held my output plug wire from my coil close to ground and didn't see a spark. I did hear my injectors open and close with each tap though, and MS gets a tach signal when I crank so can I safely rule out that I might have a bad hall sender?


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

If you have an rpm signal in TS, hall sender is good. And it sounds as though the injector outputs are working. It might be worth replacing the the bip.


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

Sweet, that's what I was thinking too. I'm going to call my guy right now and have him test it the bip. Look forward to seeing his stim too, might a good idea for me to get one for the future. I've only seen them sold non-assembled, can you buy them already put together? Or does each one have to be built for a specific board?


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

http://www.diyautotune.com/


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## ValveCoverGasket (Mar 20, 2002)

ps2375 said:


> It might be worth replacing the the bip.


which i mentioned testing with an LED light earlier in the thread, if you unplug its output in the harness you can check there.
LEDs are cheap, you can make a test light with some odds and ends from radio shack :beer:


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

So after your suggestion, I tested the bip last night just with a multimeter and got continuity from the output pin on the db37 to the driver and found voltage and continuity between some of the pins. Didn't know exactly what any of it meant though or what to look for. But I Just came back from Jake's and he tested the ecu with his stim. I'll try to remember everything he discovered but it's not getting a tach signal, spark signal, nor fuel pump which is weird because when I've cranked it, I can see the tach getting signal and I've been able to turn on and off priming on start up which makes me think that it's seeing signal from the pump. He checked continuity to most of the points but couldn't find the problem. I can't think what it would have been but maybe I did something when I changed my fuel pump that went wonky on my MS? Literally, the only wiring involved in the conversion was replacing the in tank power and ground to the pump to accommodate a different plug fitting for the new pump. After the swap, it fired up and ran sh**ty (I assume because of the leak I had in the hose in the tank). I drove it for 10 minutes and then it stalled. Just a recap of what got me here.

VCG, you have a PM


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Being able to turn on /off the pump priming means nothing about the fuel pump control circuit working. All that circuit does is provide a ground to control a fuel pump relay(as MS is a ground switching control device).

And depending upon which stim he has, it may or may not indicate properly. I would go with VCG's idea and test the coil control ckt with and LED.


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

Funny you should mention about the different stims because after he replaced the bip, he forgot to go back and check it with the first stim to make sure it's still not carrying signal (he used two different stims). He remembered this only after I informed him that once I got home and plugged everything back in (just to give it a wtf try) I cranked...
and then...
wait for it...
fired right up!

Oh man it sounded good too!! I'm not running on all cylinders because I know one of my plug wires is bad so I'm going to replace them and put a new cap and rotor as well because they're probably due. I'm also running really rich which new wires can help with but I think that I'll need a re-tune because of the fuel pump conversion. But whatever! It's running! Finally, I get to appreciate what may be the last and only sunny and warm week in Seattle. Had to leave the garage for tonight so I'll be able to test more thoroughly tomorrow.

I doubt this thread is over but I just want to say thank you guys so much for all your help and patience, especially ps2375 :beer::thumbup:


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

New FP shouldn't effect AFR's since you do have a FPR on the fuel rail, and that is what limits fuel pressure(unless it's overrunning the fuel return).

Glad to hear it's running. The best thing you can do now is get a good set of wires and any other maintenance items taken care of and get TS registered and drive around letting TS do the tuning. You'll wonder why you hadn't done that sooner.:beer:


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

Letting TS do the tuning ? How does that work?!? Is there some type of auto-tune that it does? I'll have to read up on that!

That makes sense about the fuel and the fpr, I had my injectors cleaned too so they might be spraying more fuel though. It is the same fpr but I've already noticed it idles around 45psi where it used to idle at 40 psi before. But there was a leak in the hose in the tank, could have been leaking this whole time and keeping my pressure low.


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

You know how when you listen to some jazz songs and just when you think it's going to end, it keeps going?

Well... no spark again, same issue as before the bip was replaced. Now I'm thinking there might be something up with the amount of current being drawn from my new fuel pump and that it's running through the ecu and burning up my chip? Don't remember where I got the idea that the fuel pump wiring in the ecu effects the ignition driver wiring.

For those of you who build boards and know the signal paths pretty well (although I'm sure there are differences from board to board), does this wave any red flags? MS1 V3 I'm going to research and see what I can find.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Do you have the MS switching the ground for a relay to control the Fuel Pump? If you don't, you will kill the MS board, it is not meant to carry that much current. Only enough to energize a relay.


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

Yikes, I don't know. Is there an easy way for me to check how it's wired?


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Is there a relay with a fuse that controls the FP?


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

As far as I know, only the stock fp relay and fuse that are in the fuse box. Would the MS want a separate relay or tap into the existing one?


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

It would want a regular 4 pole relay, as it is the rpm part of the stock relay's rpm section. It could be wired in to use the stock position (more work than I would want to do) or the stock relay could still be controlling the pump w/o MS input(how mine has been from the get go). You'll have to do some checking to figure out how things are wired up.

Think of MS as a low power(current) controller, and anywhere it turns something on/off, it is switching the ground to do that(injectors, coil, and relays for the fan and FP, NOS). The only place it has a higher than normal current is for Idle Valve, but that isn't too much more and nothing like the FP would draw.


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

Oh, I see. I think I understand it a little better. So MS is low current, FP is high current, so when MS sends it a ground signal, it's now in a high current loop and drawing too much something (amps?) back into the ecu or something like that? I'm hoping that I can just wire up a separate relay for the fuel pump in the hatch so that I can use the existing power/ground but only to trigger the relay. That way, whatever current is being drawn from the pump would no longer put MS in the loop. Am I understanding this right?


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Yes, but you will need to have the power to the energizing power to the relay from a switched source. Cause if not, when power is cut to the MS, the pin on MS that controls the relay goes to ground w/o power and the relay will energize.


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

hmm, I don't completely understand that. Right now, the power and ground that I'm getting to the pump is triggered by my MS and once I pull my key, it no longer sends power to the pump. I can't just use the same power and ground to trigger my relay? 'Pretend' I have an 8 year old's understanding of electrical engineering.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

OK, you have 4 terminals on a standard relay. Two are control side(MS) and two are output side (FP).

The control side has power and ground, this can be either one. Connect switched power to one and the MS FP wire to the other. MS will provide the ground under the conditions you select in TS and when motor is running. If the stalls, the MS will remove the ground path and de-energize the relay and the FP will shut off. This is a safety feature built in just like the OEM relay.

On the output side, You will one that is power (switched or not) and the other is connected to the FP. The other terminal on the FP should already be grounded, so nothing has to be done with that. 

Be sure to have an inline fuse for the power to the FP, the same rating as stock is good and also be sure to use a wire size capable of carrying the current the fuel pump will need.


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

So my harness looks like this, at least where the fuel pump and ignition out is concerned, and I traced the purple fuel pump wire to the fuse box where it plugs into G1/03 (CE2) which is the 'ECU- Fuel Pump Relay Turn-On'. But the plot thickens here, the 'fuel pump relay' output is in G1/08 (fuse 18), G2/08, and M/02 (fuse 18). The wire going from G1/08, goes into a relay that is added on top of the fuse box, the three other wires going to that relay are all cut :what:. The G2/08 wire is a different color and goes into the engine compartment. The M/02 I suspect is the wire that actually goes to the FP along with M/01 which is it's ground. So, I believe that the ecu purple wire is going to the ecu pin input on the fp relay and it's output is going to the fp. Does any of this seem suspect? I don't know what's going on with that one relay... I didn't see any other cut ends of the same wires to know where they were meant to go.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

If you can verify that MS is indeed controlling that relay, it looks good. I cannot confirm your pinout on the fuse panel as I do not have a Bently Manual for a ce2 car.


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

Ok. I've just been using a2resource. So it looks like it is wired for MS to control the stock fp relay. My buddy is recommending that I just run fatter wires from the stock relay to the pump. But what I'm still only making assumptions about is that inside my ecu, the fuel pump circuitry has some relation with my ignition module and I'm assuming that because this new fuel pump is drawing more current, the fp wiring in my ecu is messing with my ignition module.

Can anyone confirm that the fp and ignition circuits on a v3 board can effect one another in this way?


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Other than the fact that they share an ecu chip you turn on the grounds, they are or should be independent. The amount of current the FP draws thru the relay has no influence on the MS controlling the FP relay. I would look at something on external to the MS causing your ign control problems.


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

hmmm, I just can't think what else would be causing it because the only thing I've done is install that new pump


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

dunno, something happened.


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

ps2375 said:


> Other than the fact that they share an ecu chip you turn on the grounds...


Which chip do they share? Is it the bip373?

And also, any place to buy these fusebox connectors that doesn't charge $18?


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

They share an ECU chip as I stated already. The bip373 is a transistor, not a chip.


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

Oh, right, transistor.

Alright, well I think I'm just going to wire up another relay for the pump and draw power for it directly from the battery to take it's current flow out of the loop. At least I think that's what it's going to do. Aeromotive recommends relaying it anyway so nothing lost if that's not the issue. Thanks again p for all your help, you've been really patient :thumbup:


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

Just a quick update now that I've learned a bit more about my ecu. I'm going to have VCG take a look at it next week sometime so I'll take a few days to try to learn more before I send it out to him.

I'm pretty convinced the fuel pump circuit is fine, I get power to pump when cranking and I see rpms on my laptop too. So my hall sender signal is solid. There must be some type of problem between the rpm signal and the ignition output. I have continuity from pin 36 to bip center pin and cont. from the left pin on the igbt to the center pin on the Q6 transistor but I can't trace it further than that. I have 11.2K impedance between outer pins on the bip. Any other spots you guys can think that I should check? I don't have an oscilloscope or anything fancy, just trying to be productive and learn a thing or two.


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## fakename (Apr 5, 2012)

What I hope will be the last update:

Found that the 3rd pin on my bip wasn't grounding, there was a bad connection from it to the board. Reheated the solder joint and it fired right up! Drove it around for 20 mins and life is good again. Sooo good! Except that, damn this new turbo wants way more than 12 lbs! Cadillac problems

Thanks to everyone that helped me out with this thread, especially ps2375 for your patience. Great way to learn something new.

:beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::thumbup:


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## ValveCoverGasket (Mar 20, 2002)

awesome :thumbup: :thumbup:


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Glad to see that. Should run for ever now!

And its a group effort, but thank for the props.:beer::beer::beer:


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