# Corrado VR6 Turbo VRT Build and few questions



## Corsten (Sep 26, 2005)

Hey guys,

I've just started my vr6 turbo build that I always wanted to do but was unable do to lack of time. So I'm slowly progressing, hopefully will finish in a few weeks. I do have a few questions concerning evap solenoid and vacuum nipple by the TPS/throttle body.
few pics:

312mm audi tt brakes










chains before










after










engine block painted, oil pan tapped:



















cylinder walls



















engine almost complete


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## Corsten (Sep 26, 2005)

questions: what do I do with the evap solenoid, how do I connect disconnected tubing? numbers 1,2,3,4










Where to connect this?


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## vergessen wir es (May 12, 2010)

If you don't have the manual DL it. It will help a little.
http://www.kineticmotorsport.com/pages/manuals.html

Evap you tee into the TB port you point to. The other side of the tee goes to your DV. They run a check valve to keep the evap valve from seeing boost.

Looks like your evap line (2) is disconnected from the canister.
Cut the clamps and replace with worm drive clamps.


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## Corsten (Sep 26, 2005)

I do have a manual, however it's still hard for me to visualize

what do I do with the clear and black evap lines?, where is the vac line that is supposed to go to wastegate? What about another manifold nipple by the FPR (or IAT sensor)? cap it?


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## vergessen wir es (May 12, 2010)

So the clear looks like your evap line from the tank (1).  That line needs to go into the canister if you are retaining that system. Then the black hose (7) on one side of the evap-reg-valve comes from the canister and goes through the valve to the intake.

Because your compressor outlet has the aluminum elbow at that angle I will assume you are going to be intercooled right?

The DV diverter valve sits between the boost side and the inlet track. It diverts/recirculates excess boost back to the inlet when the throttle closes (which is why the valve is controlled by vacuum = throttle closed). If you are going intercooled the DV is fed boost just before the intake manifold, usually with an aluminum elbow with a welded on 1" port.

The valve cover gets plumbed directly to one of the inlet track ports after the MAF or to atmosphere or catch can.

The evap line is actually a path for the fuel vapors to go back into the manifold when the ecu opens the purge regulator valve. Check valve is right.


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## Corsten (Sep 26, 2005)

I will be intercooling this setup - you are correct. I do know how to connect the Diverter Valve - not sure why I drew the picture this way, it's totally wrong . 
The valve cover nipple will go into a catch tank. out of the catch tank it will go under the car I will not be feeding it back to the intake so that I won't lower the gas octane.

I'm just not sure how to connect EVAP solenoid. I am ditching the canister, because I need room for my intake. So I'm left with the solenoid and 3 tubes. Clear tube is supposed to go into the fender (if I remember correctly) just not sure what to do with the other two. 

Also there are two nipples on the manifold, one by TPS and the other by IAT. Do I used them both in the vac line loop as sources or just one of them and the other would be capped?


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## vergessen wir es (May 12, 2010)

If you aren't using the canister then just leave the source from tank looped into the well and disconnect both hoses from the reg valve and leave it connected in the fender as well. Take it off the bracket and it reaches.

You just need to figure out where you are connecting the inlet of the DV. They make silicone tees, like 2.5 x 2.5 x 1.

I use the throttle vacuum port you pointed to control the DV. It is the only thing I have connected to that throttle port. The vac port by the IAT is for the FPR and can/should stay dedicated without teeing. Some use the brake booster nipple by the check valve to get a source. I used the EGR port on the manifold for boost controller. This leaves every reference dedicated.

If you aren't planning a big DV then you could use the open port on the TIP for a second DV.


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## Corsten (Sep 26, 2005)

vergessen wir es said:


> If you aren't using the canister then just leave the source from tank looped into the well and disconnect both hoses from the reg valve and leave it connected in the fender as well. Take it off the bracket and it reaches.


sorry, I'm not following. So I need to get the clear (source) tube from the tank and place in into the fender, OK, what do you mean by "looped in to the well" - loop with what?
"disconnect both hoses from reg valve" - OK I get that  "and leave it connected in the fender as well" - hmm... what is the point of connecting two loose hoses with the source from the tank? - unless I'm not understanding it correctly

after some thinking, maybe you meant this:

a) Leave #3 connected to the manifold (by throttle body) 
b) disconnect it from the reg valve, 
c) connect with #2 and then #1 ditching the evap solenoid completely

is that corect?...

can you just use numbers on the picture below (for each line) it would make it a lot easier.

1- the source from the tank
2- can't remember what id did
3- used to go to the manifold nipple after throttle and T into valve cover\
4- regulator valve


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## Corsten (Sep 26, 2005)

okay I think I found it in the Kinetic installation manual:

Replace vacuum hose which runs between intake manifold and EVAP Canister Purge
Regulator Valve with silicone hose, install 1 vacuum tee near throttle body run line to
waste gate. Run hose towards the passenger side of car install the other tee and run 3/16”
vacuum hose to blow off valve. The 1-way check valve is placed before the EVAP
solenoid so that vacuum opens the check valve and boost closes the valve.

Can I run from this source (manifold nipple beside TPS) a connection to the turbo gauge? - so that it sees boost and vacuum

also I see people run vacuum line from wastegate to the FPR and then to DV, kinetic manual says different?...


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## vergessen wir es (May 12, 2010)

#1 gets left unconnected and hidden. It is just an escape route for your vapors as the fuel expands and contracts in the tank. I think the tank has a relief as well so it could be capped. If you are particular you could fit a bronze filter.

hoses #2 and #3 are removed

evap solenoid (#4) is left (electrically) connected for ecu reasons with no hoses attached. You can tuck the solenoid in the fender well just to get it out of the way (as far as the wires allow).

No evap hoses go to the engine because the evap system is deleted.

the DV control goes to the throttle port.

Since the Valve cover is going to a catch can and you have eliminated the pcv control as well then you don't need a vacuum signal for that either.

You can tee the DV source for the boost gauge if you like. Since the DV doesn't move during boost then you shouldn't see any effect on the signal. That is true as long as your DV does not leak and can hold boost perfectly well. This is not always the case so I ran my gauge/controller source from the egr port so it is isolated and dedicated.

It is not a good idea to tee the FPR for anything though many do it. When the WG moves it acts like a piston and it will cause a momentary change in the fuel pressure. Small though it may be it is an effect that you can eliminate by running dedicated references.


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## Corsten (Sep 26, 2005)

that is exactly what I needed, thank you!, will try to set it up like this, hopefully in a week or two and post results or if I'm stuck with something again...


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## vergessen wir es (May 12, 2010)

:thumbup:


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