# p2293 fuel pressure regulator 2 performance 2008 vw jetta



## orod2326 (Aug 22, 2017)

new to the forums, not sure if this is the place for this

I have a 2008 vw Jetta 2.0t (Bpy) with 128k miles, have been getting a p2293: fuel pressure regulator 2 perfomance for the last little while. if we clear the code it comes back on after about 20 minutes of driving. we were getting a p0087: fuel rail/system pressure too low, but after replacing parts that code has not come back on. 

What I have replaced:

Fuel Filter
In-tank Fuel pump
Low pressure fuel sensor on hpfp
fuel rail pressure sensor 
fuel limiting valve on hpfp
fuel limiting valve on fuel rail 
High pressure fuel pump (used) 
fuel pump control module

The cam follower looks okay too, the cam itself is not damaged. I really don't want to take it to the dealer, but that might be my only option. We have been experimenting with certain parts as well. The n276 valve on the hpfp that was on the car was causing the car to take a few seconds to start. The hpfp was pulled off a 2005 Audi A6, the pumps are identical, so I don't think the older hpfp is the problem. 

What is the fuel pressure supposed to be on the hpfp, have been looking for specs but have not found anything?

Let me know if you have any ideas on what my problem could be!


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## Thy_Harrowing (Dec 7, 2014)

orod2326 said:


> new to the forums, not sure if this is the place for this
> 
> I have a 2008 vw Jetta 2.0t (Bpy) with 128k miles, have been getting a p2293: fuel pressure regulator 2 perfomance for the last little while. if we clear the code it comes back on after about 20 minutes of driving. we were getting a p0087: fuel rail/system pressure too low, but after replacing parts that code has not come back on.
> 
> ...


You may have already found your answers already but just in case...

First off, regarding the HPFP pressure, the stock HPFP can pressurize fuel up to 130bar. Doesn't mean it necessarily will achieve that but it can. If it were to ever exceed that, which a non-tuned car on stock HPFP should not be able to, then the fuel pressure regulator/limiting valve on the rail would step in an crack open relieving pressure. But, anyway, that isn't really important since clearly you're having the opposite problem. I assume you wouldn't have asked about the HPFP pressure if you didn't have access to some means to log the data... so I would suggest logging fuel rail actual and fuel rail requested values (as well as engine RPM and throttle position, at a minimum, for reference details) in order to see where your fuel rail actual is peaking compared to the requested value and at what RPM. Do 2K RPM to red-line pulls in various gears (definitely 3rd and 4th gear, as well as 5th if you have a location to safely do that speed without endangering yourself or others or getting your license revoked haha). Make sure throttle is pinned 100% for the whole pull. Check the data afterward. You should expect to see peak value somewhere between 110-130bar (at least for 4th gear and up). I know that is a wide range but it's been awhile since I looked into data for a stock car. I can tell you for sure a tuned FSI should hit 130 bar and I think even a stock car can get near there at times in high gear/speed WOT scenarios. The fuel pump upgrades required to go beyond stage 2 tuning is more about the available flow to sustain that high pressure than it is about the pressure itself. Anyway, even if 130bar is a little high to shoot for a stock car I think you should definitely see 120bar on at least some of those pulls. If it's less than that, and especially if it's less than 110bar, then there's a problem for sure.

As to what the problem is, man, I honestly couldn't tell you because the list of items you already addressed are exactly the things I would look for. You hit all the big ones and even some of the not so big ones. The only thing I can think of off the top of my head that that leaves is obscure stuff like a problem with the fuel deliver itself, e.g. gummed up passageway or possible bent hard-lines. Pretty darn unlikely in the grand scheme of things but, again, you hit all the components I can think of. It's like 2AM here though so maybe I'm just missing something I'll think of later when I'm more awake... 

Keep us posted!


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## Thy_Harrowing (Dec 7, 2014)

I will add one thing... you said you pulled a HPFP off a 2005 A6 and the pumps are identical... well they might be identical on the outside but that doesn't necessarily mean they are identical in operation. I'm not saying I know for a fact that aren't, I'm just saying I wouldn't be so sure they are just going off of external appearance UNLESS you find some bulletproof confirmation of that theory. I'll just say this, the upgraded HPFPs on the market for Stage 2+ FSI engines offered by APR and AutoTech are identical on the outside but they are not identical internally, they are capable of higher flow and thus can support higher pressurization if needed. The A6 pump you pulled might be an identical part or it might not be, the internals and functionality may not be designed to support as much flow or fuel pressurization. If that is the case and if your old HPFP was problematic as well then replacing it with a new, proper HPFP may be the solution. I'd look into that A6 pump you pulled some more...

Aside from that... are you 100% positive the intake cam lobe is in excellent shape (make sure it's the two-piece revision B lobe, if not it is probably more worn than you think by looking at it). Even if it is worn down a little that can affect pressure output... we're talking about seriously tight tolerances here just like all motor internal tolerances after all.


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## orod2326 (Aug 22, 2017)

Update: the car is still running pretty rough. I noticed it Is a lot worse when the weather outside is hot and when the car has been running for over an hour, I tested the voltage on the lpfp and it is getting the voltage it needs. I ordered a new OEM high pressure fuel pump and cam follower for it, just to clear that out of the way, they should be here in a few days! I haven't gotten around to looking at the logs yet. Do these cars have a fuel pump relay? or is it all controlled by the control module on top of lpfp? I looked online and did not find one that was for the fuel pump, none of the ones under the steering wheel or in the engine compartment were for the fuel pump (removed one by one and fuel pump still turned on)


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## Thy_Harrowing (Dec 7, 2014)

orod2326 said:


> Update: the car is still running pretty rough. I noticed it Is a lot worse when the weather outside is hot and when the car has been running for over an hour, I tested the voltage on the lpfp and it is getting the voltage it needs. I ordered a new OEM high pressure fuel pump and cam follower for it, just to clear that out of the way, they should be here in a few days! I haven't gotten around to looking at the logs yet. Do these cars have a fuel pump relay? or is it all controlled by the control module on top of lpfp? I looked online and did not find one that was for the fuel pump, none of the ones under the steering wheel or in the engine compartment were for the fuel pump (removed one by one and fuel pump still turned on)


On my car ('07 Passat, BPY) the fuel pump control module fuse is fuse #10 on fuse panel D which is behind the dash panel on the passenger side corner of the dash (as in the one that is accessible once you open the passenger door. The fuse for both fuel HP and LP fuel pumps is fuse #31 on fuse panel C (behind the similar corner dash panel on the driver's side). I can't say whether or not the the locations are the same on your 08 Jetta though...

I know you checked the intake cam lobe with the HPFP off before but I'd suggest removing the vac pump to get a look from a better angle. First off, by removing the vac pump you can confirm you have the revision B intake cam lobe already (you probably do being that it is an 08 but it's good to be sure), and with the vac pump off you can get a better angle/view on the cam lobe from the side. This is the angle you need in order to tell if the cam lobe is worn down. However, given the fact the specs are so precise and that "wear" in this case can be very small it still may be too hard to tell anything by eye. _Remember it's not just scoring or marks you're looking for (those would be obvious with just the HPFP off), in this case it's the actual cam lobe wearing down such that the stroke from the pump/follower is longer than it should be. If it gets bad enough fuel pressure goes to hell, the system is very precise. _

Also with the vac pump off you can get a small peak at your cam chain tensioner too for a bonus. It's not a full look but it's enough to see how worn down it is on the bottom surface of the tensioner (good idea to check that if you haven't checked/replace it before, it's a very common failure point for these engines, it's not a matter of IF it's a matter of WHEN). Doesn't have anything to do with your current issue but a good thing to look into if you haven't.

Removing the vac pump takes like 10 minutes so it's well worth it to do these checks. There are youtube vids if you're not already familiar. Basically, engine cover offer (if applicable), intake off, battery out, vac pump off (3 torx bolts). Done. The vac pump is, of course, sealed by an o-ring. I've had my vac pump off several times and re-used the o-ring each time without any leaks afterward but if for some reason you run into an issue I have a spare vac pump used (but fairly low miles) as well as fresh, never used o-ring I could give you if needed.


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## orod2326 (Aug 22, 2017)

On my Jetta, the passenger side does not have any fuses or relays, it just empty. I replaced the High pressure fuel pump and cam follower with new OEM ones for my car, and sure enough the code came on after about 20 minutes of driving. (as I expected) I took off the vacuum pump when I changed the fuel pump to get a better look at the cam, and it looks okay. As for the tensioner, I replaced that about a year ago! So I moved onto the next thing that could be causing problems, the ECU. Like I said, the problem has came up more when the temperature outside is hot, and when the car has been driving for over an hour or more. The ECU is getting very hot, very quickly, it seems to be getting a lot warmer than it needs to be (at least that is what I think). I called the dealer and asked to see how much they would charge to reprogram a used ECU, they said it would be around $110, but that it might not work because they are coded by vin. Would I be able to get a used ECU, with same part #, same engine and have it reprogrammed? Or are they actually coded by vin, not sure if the dealer is trying to get me to buy a new one from VW? They also want me to take it in for a diagnostic, for another hundred dollars. The closest dealer to me is 2 hours away, I really don't want to haul the car over there to have them tell me the same things I already know. 

Running out of ideas at this point!


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## Thy_Harrowing (Dec 7, 2014)

> I took off the vacuum pump when I changed the fuel pump to get a better look at the cam, and it looks okay


Did you confirm it is a revision B cam?



> The ECU is getting very hot, very quickly, it seems to be getting a lot warmer than it needs to be (at least that is what I think). I called the dealer and asked to see how much they would charge to reprogram a used ECU, they said it would be around $110, but that it might not work because they are coded by vin. Would I be able to get a used ECU, with same part #, same engine and have it reprogrammed? Or are they actually coded by vin, not sure if the dealer is trying to get me to buy a new one from VW? They also want me to take it in for a diagnostic, for another hundred dollars. The closest dealer to me is 2 hours away, I really don't want to haul the car over there to have them tell me the same things I already know.


I don't know the ins and outs of ECU programming so I can't give you a guaranteed answer but I'm pretty sure the dealer is being honest, I think the ECU reprogramming is very specific. As for going in for diagnostics, however, there is probably a pretty good chance you will drive 2 hours there and throw money at them only to come of with nothing so I'd continue to explore the issue yourself and post on various forums for additional insight. Do you have another vehicle to drive or does this one need to be straightened out pronto?


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## orod2326 (Aug 22, 2017)

Yes, it is a revison B Cam, forgot to mention that above! It is my sons car, he is going to college about an hour away, he has our Tahoe right now, until we can get his car fixed. I have this car and truck to drive, so we can get around, but I really want to get this car fixed! I've about ripped all the hair off my head trying to figure it out


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## GTI's (Nov 27, 2011)

orod2326 said:


> Update: the car is still running pretty rough. I noticed it Is a lot worse when the weather outside is hot and when the car has been running for over an hour, I tested the voltage on the lpfp and it is getting the voltage it needs. I ordered a new OEM high pressure fuel pump and cam follower for it, just to clear that out of the way, they should be here in a few days! I haven't gotten around to looking at the logs yet. Do these cars have a fuel pump relay? or is it all controlled by the control module on top of lpfp? I looked online and did not find one that was for the fuel pump, none of the ones under the steering wheel or in the engine compartment were for the fuel pump (removed one by one and fuel pump still turned on)



You will not find a fuel pump relay on this car with a BPY engine. When replacing LPFP did you do adaptation? The parts that you replaced were they OEM? You really need to log and post your fuel pressures for both from the LPFP and HPFP. Your pressure has got to be off by 15bar to set that Dtc.


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## orod2326 (Aug 22, 2017)

All parts were oem, I did not do adaptation, what is that? I have been having a hard time getting numbers. I was able to pull up these numbers with my scanner, I will post them below. It is also now throwing a p0089 (fuel regulator 1 performance) along with the p2293


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## orod2326 (Aug 22, 2017)

this is the link to the photos:

http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/orod2326/media/cGF0aDovSU1HXzA3NTVfenBzdXhzM2pkemcuanBn/?ref=1


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## orod2326 (Aug 22, 2017)

orod2326 said:


> this is the link to the photos:
> 
> http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/orod2326/media/cGF0aDovSU1HXzA3NTVfenBzdXhzM2pkemcuanBn/?ref=1


Let me know if you can access the link to the pictures, wasn't exactly sure how to get them on here!


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## Thy_Harrowing (Dec 7, 2014)

orod2326 said:


> Let me know if you can access the link to the pictures, wasn't exactly sure how to get them on here!


I can see the data. I'm not at all familiar with the scanner you're using, I am only familiar with VCDS, and the way the values are labeled are a bit confusing with your scanner; for instance, generally percentages (like the 81%) in this context refer to a duty cycle so I'm assuming that is your LPFP duty cycle, but the way it is labeled is odd. Anyway, assuming I am correct about the 81% referring to the the duty cycle of your LPFP then it is way high which means the pump is working over-time. Were the LPFP and module you installed used by chance?

Also the pressure is a bit subpar. It should be about 6 bar so, if the above is accurate, then you have a LPFP working over-time and it is still achieving subpar fuel pressure. That's my assessment anyway. Maybe GTIs is more familar with that scanner you are using and can make better sense of it all

As for the adaptation that he mentioned... it's basically what it sounds like: it's electronically adapting the new fuel pump. I don't know if your scanner can do it and, if so, I have no idea how. I only know how to do it with VCDS. I'd suggest looking up info on adaptation capabilities of your scanner. If it can't then you will want to find someone localish to borrow VCDS from. Using the VAG-COM diagnostic sub-forum on here and posting up your need and location would probably get you some replies.


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## orod2326 (Aug 22, 2017)

Thy_Harrowing said:


> I can see the data. I'm not at all familiar with the scanner you're using, I am only familiar with VCDS, and the way the values are labeled are a bit confusing with your scanner; for instance, generally percentages (like the 81%) in this context refer to a duty cycle so I'm assuming that is your LPFP duty cycle, but the way it is labeled is odd. Anyway, assuming I am correct about the 81% referring to the the duty cycle of your LPFP then it is way high which means the pump is working over-time. Were the LPFP and module you installed used by chance?
> 
> Also the pressure is a bit subpar. It should be about 6 bar so, if the above is accurate, then you have a LPFP working over-time and it is still achieving subpar fuel pressure. That's my assessment anyway. Maybe GTIs is more familar with that scanner you are using and can make better sense of it all
> 
> As for the adaptation that he mentioned... it's basically what it sounds like: it's electronically adapting the new fuel pump. I don't know if your scanner can do it and, if so, I have no idea how. I only know how to do it with VCDS. I'd suggest looking up info on adaptation capabilities of your scanner. If it can't then you will want to find someone localish to borrow VCDS from. Using the VAG-COM diagnostic sub-forum on here and posting up your need and location would probably get you some replies.


I am not 100% either on the way the scanner is labeling either, the lpfp and and module were both new. I will try and get my hands on a VSDS


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## GTI's (Nov 27, 2011)

I take it this was at idle?

Adaptation for LPFP

Fuel Pump 

Prerequisites:

## Ignition ON 
## Engine ON 
## System voltage at least 11.0 V.



[Select]
[01 - Engine]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Group 103
[Go!]
Activate the Basic Setting.
[ON/OFF/Next]
Wait until Field 4 shows "ADP. O.K.".
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]

## Switch Ignition OFF.


Note: 
## Timing chain driven engines such as the CCTA, CBFA and CCTA were phased in during model year 2008. Those engines do not use a G410 (Low) Fuel Pressure Sensor so Basic Settings 103 is not applicable.


From RT. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/2.0l_TFSI_(AXX/BGB/BPJ/BPY/BWA)


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## orod2326 (Aug 22, 2017)

I have not been able to get a VCDS, been super busy. But the car is still having major issues, had time today to check things in more detail, checked fuel lines, fuses, relays, wiring and it looks okay. the car did go through the new the HPFP I replaced a few weeks ago, I was driving it yesterday, it was running fine, on my way home it stalled and would not start, I had to pull it home, the scanner pulled up a p2293, p0089, and p2294 (Fuel Pressure regulator 2 control circuit open), which pointed directly to the N276 valve, so I put the old HPFP back on and it turned on, no problem. Luckily I am able to return the pump and they will be sending another one. I just don't understand why it would fail. Throughout the week, it has stalled a few times, but it would turn on no problem, on Tuesday I was at an intersection when it stalled on me, and would not turn on, it would not turn over. I got it off the main road, after blocking traffic for a few minutes. and I tried turning it back on, it turned on and ran fine until yesterday.


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## Thy_Harrowing (Dec 7, 2014)

orod2326 said:


> I have not been able to get a VCDS, been super busy. But the car is still having major issues, had time today to check things in more detail, checked fuel lines, fuses, relays, wiring and it looks okay. the car did go through the new the HPFP I replaced a few weeks ago, I was driving it yesterday, it was running fine, on my way home it stalled and would not start, I had to pull it home, the scanner pulled up a p2293, p0089, and p2294 (Fuel Pressure regulator 2 control circuit open), which pointed directly to the N276 valve, so I put the old HPFP back on and it turned on, no problem. Luckily I am able to return the pump and they will be sending another one. I just don't understand why it would fail. Throughout the week, it has stalled a few times, but it would turn on no problem, on Tuesday I was at an intersection when it stalled on me, and would not turn on, it would not turn over. I got it off the main road, after blocking traffic for a few minutes. and I tried turning it back on, it turned on and ran fine until yesterday.


You already replaced the N276 though right?

You gotta get your hands on VCDS and run that adaptation and also run some thorough data logs before we can really tell what's what at this point. Otherwise it's just spit-balling because these codes can pertain to numerous things.


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## orod2326 (Aug 22, 2017)

Thy_Harrowing said:


> orod2326 said:
> 
> 
> > I have not been able to get a VCDS, been super busy. But the car is still having major issues, had time today to check things in more detail, checked fuel lines, fuses, relays, wiring and it looks okay. the car did go through the new the HPFP I replaced a few weeks ago, I was driving it yesterday, it was running fine, on my way home it stalled and would not start, I had to pull it home, the scanner pulled up a p2293, p0089, and p2294 (Fuel Pressure regulator 2 control circuit open), which pointed directly to the N276 valve, so I put the old HPFP back on and it turned on, no problem. Luckily I am able to return the pump and they will be sending another one. I just don't understand why it would fail. Throughout the week, it has stalled a few times, but it would turn on no problem, on Tuesday I was at an intersection when it stalled on me, and would not turn on, it would not turn over. I got it off the main road, after blocking traffic for a few minutes. and I tried turning it back on, it turned on and ran fine until yesterday.
> ...


Yep, it was a new high pressure fuel pump


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## Thy_Harrowing (Dec 7, 2014)

orod2326 said:


> Yep, it was a new high pressure fuel pump



Disclaimer: this could totally be something my head is making up right now but for some reason something is telling me that I saw somewhere that the sensors on some HPFPs (probably made after a certain point) don't play nice with all connectors/ECUs (probably if they are from earlier in the model's generation). In other words, that it is possible that you could get a OEM pump for your car that would by all accounts be compatible but the sensors don't report correctly which would of course cause issues.

Again, I feel like I read something to that effect at some point but I have not had any first hand experience with such a problem nor can I think of where I read it so I might be totally getting my wires and memory crossed. Perhaps someone can confirm or you can read up on that to see if it holds any water.


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## Ronny Bensys (Apr 17, 2014)

A friend of mine did a timing belt and chain adjustment in his 2007 Passat 2.0 BPY which apparently jumped a tooth. P0011 went off after the adjustment job which made him happy for a short time. The same day he had P2293 and P0087. The car is running poor, misfiring and engine rpm is fluctuating. What else can we do to diagnose the new CEL?

Do we have to adjust HPFP after the timing adjustment? I heard the camshaft should be set to TDC to adjust the HPFP cam follower to a proper point. Is that correct?


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## ju jitzu jesus (Dec 8, 2019)

_I know the post is 5 yrs old, but did you ever figure out what it was?_


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