# Replacing steel brake lines.



## dustinmicks (Apr 27, 2010)

I've been told I need to replace my rear steel brake lines, but the connection near the flex line is so corroded it won't come out of the rubber line. After about half an hour of using wrenches and vice grips and stripping the nut I decided to cut the steel brake line to make it easier to grip... With no luck. 









That is the passenger side the drivers side connection is corroded even worse. 

My question is can I take this connection off the flex line without removing an replacing the rubber hose. The nut was so corroded its a round nut now because it basically fell apart at the touch of a wrench. I can't pay a mechanic to do this because I'm a poor a$$ h0 and you wouldn't believe how frustrating this is.


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## EuroSportChicago (Jun 9, 2010)

Did you use a flare nut wrench to attempt to take it off??

IF you cut the rubber somehow, you *must* replace it. brakes are high pressure lines. 

Make sure that you bleed properly and check for leaks after.


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## dustinmicks (Apr 27, 2010)

No I didn't use a flare nut wrench I ended up having to get someone to bring their vice grip brand vice grips over because both nuts were corroded to a smaller rounder shape and my crappy vice grips weren't doing the trick. 

I will bleed the system I have the Haynes manual from a mk2 jetta that I can use for reference. Is it normal that when I finally got that piece off the rubber line no brake fluid ran out?. the threaded end where the steel line goes in the female part of the rubber hose had fluid in it but the rubber hose didn't leak at all. 

Also the mechanic told me to replace my "rear flex line" does he mean the one under the backseats, where the picture above shows or the one at the caliper? This is a b3 passat btw


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

the flex line is the small rubber line that is used to flex with the suspension, a small joint going from steel pipe to rubber flex line to steel pipe that is attached to the rear suspension.


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

Lookin at those pics..you need to replace both the metal lines and the individual brake hoses as well!....The rubber lines don't last forever, and they are not all that expensive...cheap insurance..maybe life insurance...to replace em all at once...spray the fittings where they screw into the calipers with PB Blaster to try and break loose the rust B4 you take wrench to em..spray several times over a day or more....you don't wanna screw up the threads into the calipers or you'll be replacin them too..and they cost way more than brake lines!...If you have drums on rear...might wanna consider replacing the wheel cylinders there..they are probably badly corroded too...and not as expensive as calipers by a long shot...so again good to just change em out and be sure of your brake system!:thumbup:


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## dustinmicks (Apr 27, 2010)

Upon closer inspection I would like to replace both rear flex lines. They're 26 bucks each and I think I will just change them with the steel lines to avoid confusion. The flex hose that goes into the caliper seems to be in good shape and doesn't look to me to have much wear or corrosion so I'm thinking they may be fine. But for winter purposes I don't want to go cheap on my stopping power. 

The rear brakes are disc by the way, and I have already bought new rotors, pads and wheel bearings. Got front and rear rotors, and the pads and rear bearings for 100 bucks off the guy who sold me the car. They look to be a mid grade quality so I'm happy.


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## EuroSportChicago (Jun 9, 2010)

dustinmicks said:


> Upon closer inspection I would like to replace both rear flex lines. They're 26 bucks each and I think I will just change them with the steel lines to avoid confusion. The flex hose that goes into the caliper seems to be in good shape and doesn't look to me to have much wear or corrosion so I'm thinking they may be fine. But for winter purposes I don't want to go cheap on my stopping power.
> 
> The rear brakes are disc by the way, and I have already bought new rotors, pads and wheel bearings. Got front and rear rotors, and the pads and rear bearings for 100 bucks off the guy who sold me the car. They look to be a mid grade quality so I'm happy.


Good. Make sure you use PB for all the bolts/nuts


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## dustinmicks (Apr 27, 2010)

This rear flex line looks done. 










And this is the caliper line. Both pretty much the same. 










Got these rotors and pads for both front and rear. Bearings came with them and I just got grease for the bearings and some Dot4 synthetic brake fluid, which I think will be sufficient. 










Also what is pb? Like wd40 or liquid wrench?


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## EuroSportChicago (Jun 9, 2010)

dustinmicks said:


> This rear flex line looks done.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


yeah, its "PB Blaster". Many different shops use it compared to the off brands. Idk, exactly what it does, but its good. A little "experiment" on the can, is take 2 styrafoam cups, and put an inch of PB in one, and an inch of Penetrating spray in the other. Let it sit, and the PB will have eaten through the cup, and the off brand will not have. 

It's cheap, and it can save you ALOT of time. If you know what your taking off, I would spray it on the day before and let it eat away for the night before.


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## MDVDuber (Nov 20, 2002)

PB Blaster is great - I think it works better than Liquid Wrench. +1 on the spray it multiple times over a day or more...those brake lines are awfully hard to break free. 

Also start soaking those bleeder valves as well - they can be super tough to remove. You'll want to use a flare wrench, boxend wrench or 6 point socket to loosen as they will round off as well. They are awfully easy to snap off so be careful

Although removing the brake lines with vice grips etc. is fine you are going to want to use flare wrenches for installation of the new stuff. 

If you plan to bend your own hardlines you may want to invest in a tubing bender - http://www.eastwood.com/triple-head-180-degree-tubing-bender-3-16-3-8-in.html That's actually at the high end of the price range. I got mine at Sears Hardware although most autoparts places with have simpler ones in the $15 range. I've seen some guys bend the lines around sockets held in a vice with success - I'm not that brave or skilled.

You can buy pre-flared lines in set lengths (8", 12", 20", 30", 40", 51" and 60") at most auto parts stores, and couplers to tie one or more together for longer runs. That'll save you the expense of a flaring kit - cause to get a good one you will spend some bucks. Plan to buy extra lines as you are sure to mess up once or twice.

The whole process of bending lines can be pretty frustrating. Remember that, in general you would like to imitate the stock bends as much as possible - but if you end up with a line that reaches, isn't kinked and isn't rubbing on anything then you are probably just fine.

Good Luck.


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## EuroSportChicago (Jun 9, 2010)

MDVDuber said:


> Also start soaking those bleeder valves as well - they can be super tough to remove. You'll want to use a flare wrench, boxend wrench or 6 point socket to loosen as they will round off as well. They are awfully easy to snap off so be careful


also to mention about this, you can take a punch, and hammer on it near the housing *(DEF NOT THE BLEEDER SCREW, IT WILL BREAK)*. But if you hit the punch to the housing where the bleeder screw is on the caliper, it will help break it loose.


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## dustinmicks (Apr 27, 2010)

Alright wicked, will do guys. thanks for all the helpful info it saves me a buttload of stress and bloody knuckles. :banghead:


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## jimbbski (Jun 3, 2007)

PB Blaster is OK but tests have shown that a mixture of acetone and ATF if the most effective penetrating fluid. I have used it and i have to agree ATF works best, with acetone or without. And it's cheap! Or at least comparted to the spray lubes.


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## EuroSportChicago (Jun 9, 2010)

jimbbski said:


> PB Blaster is OK but tests have shown that a mixture of acetone and ATF if the most effective penetrating fluid. I have used it and i have to agree ATF works best, with acetone or without. And it's cheap! Or at least comparted to the spray lubes.


Thats cool; I have never heard that. This will def get the test the next time I got a Bit** of a stuck bolt. :thumbup::thumbup:


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

jimbbski said:


> PB Blaster is OK but tests have shown that a mixture of acetone and ATF if the most effective penetrating fluid. I have used it and i have to agree ATF works best, with acetone or without. And it's cheap! Or at least comparted to the spray lubes.


Links to said tests?

ATF is great for soaking moving parts, like sticky lock cylinders or rough-ratcheting ratchets because it's high-detergent and doesn't dissipate as fast as regular penetrating lube. I'd be interested on reading up on results of mixing it with acetone...


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## VeeDoubleYouGuy (Nov 4, 2003)

i like releasall. make sure you get the correct brake lines. the standard ones will fit but they are too small and inverted flare. u need 10mm metric ones probably with bubble flares.


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