# MS2 v3.57 direct coil control - no spark!



## jaxgti95 (Dec 19, 2011)

So i have an MSD blaster 2 coil, wired negative from coil to pin 36 on the ECU, positive has 12v, and still no spark. spark settings are set to going high (inverted), and have the dwell at 3.0ms, i have the dizzy staticly set to 6BTDC so i think i set that properly in the settings, and i also have the hall wired up correctly i believe. for that i put the 1k pullup resistor on the pads R57, wired the hall positive to the 5v TPS VREF, the hall signal to the shielded tach signal wire on the ECU harness, and the hall ground is going to the rest of the sensor ground. now, in the shielded cable, the one with the black and white wires, i didnt wire the black to anything, and i knwo that is the shield ground. Should i be grounding that out the the hall ground or somewhere on the chassis? because im not getting an RPM signal of anything more than 1 or 2 RPM when cranking. could this be why i am not gettting spark? I have the map sensor hooked up to my manifold too and CTS and IAT hooked up, and have a base 1.8 ABA hybrid map loaded. please any insight is greatly welcomed!! thanks!


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Make sure your jumpers are set to use vr input not the opto circuit. Also, if you unplug the hall sender and tap a jumper wire to ground, can you get rpm? If not double check jumpers and software settings.


----------



## jaxgti95 (Dec 19, 2011)

need_a_VR6 said:


> Make sure your jumpers are set to use vr input not the opto circuit. Also, if you unplug the hall sender and tap a jumper wire to ground, can you get rpm? If not double check jumpers and software settings.


I followed this of the MSEXTRA PDF 

"VR Input with pullup for hall sensors, LS2/58X, optical sensors or points
a) Find JP1 in the bottom right of the board. Place a jumper across positions 1 and 2
b) Find J1 in the middle of the board. Place a jumper across positions 3 and 4
c) Install a 1k resistor (any value 470R - 2k2 is likely ok) onto the pads marked R57
d) With a small screwdriver, turn the pots, R52 and R56, 7 turns anticlockwise (sometimes you may feel a "click"
when the end position is reached, they can't be damaged by turning too far.) and then turn R56 back about 2
turns clockwise."

i will test the hall sender jumper today once im off work. my settings are set for going high (inverted), basic trigger, Spark A set to JS10, and still nothing. however, i found a quote from you on a thread:


need_a_VR6 said:


> Using TPS vref for the distributor + is totally fine.
> 
> V3.57 should need no mods for what you're doing other then setting the jumpers: http://www.megamanual.com/357/assemble.htm
> 
> ...


and then another from someone else on the same thread:


ewillard said:


> kodos to paul extremly help full with everything he help me a whole lot i got mine running becasue of him. to do direct coil you need to have bip installed, pin36 going to the negitive on the coil, you need rpm signal to the center wire on the hall sender, if your useing hallsender you need to have a 1k resistor on r57 the board must be jumpered for opto your ts settings will need to be trigger offset 60, rising edge, spark output going high, spark output pin js10.
> 
> im willing to help as much as i can i was going nuts trying to get mine fixed and running properly
> if you need a msq let me know ill send you mine. its for a 2L 16v lysholm with 50lbs injectors, autotech sport cams, at 17psi, 9:1 comp ratio. thats the basics.


so should i set my jumpers the way you stated instead? and i will check my settings for rising edge and trigger offset


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Both circuits will work. Only use the opto circuit (from the quote from that old thread) if you cannot get the vr circuit to work. I have had about a 90% hit rate with it working, the last 10% always work with the opto.


----------



## jaxgti95 (Dec 19, 2011)

need_a_VR6 said:


> Both circuits will work. Only use the opto circuit (from the quote from that old thread) if you cannot get the vr circuit to work. I have had about a 90% hit rate with it working, the last 10% always work with the opto.


I will try the opto circuit today! hopefully it works. i will report back my results


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

You may need to fiddle with the trigger input and the position of the dizzy for the opto to work. If you get pulses but no start, check timing with a timing light.


----------



## jaxgti95 (Dec 19, 2011)

need_a_VR6 said:


> You may need to fiddle with the trigger input and the position of the dizzy for the opto to work. If you get pulses but no start, check timing with a timing light.


I think my trigger input is set to basic trigger right now, and the dizzy is set to the timing mark of 6BTDC, but ill keep checking!!


----------



## jaxgti95 (Dec 19, 2011)

So here's what ive done. I tested out my old ABA coil for fun before i thought of moving jumpers or settings. All i did was bypass the built in ICM it has and just wire up to pins 1 and 15. and behold, SPARK! but still didnt start, it would just want to start almost and then keep cranking. also doesnt help that my battery died. did a spark output test and success. so maybe i should return that MSD coil, and keep trying and messing with the settings on the OEM coil. Right now, I'm using trigger return and have trigger offset at 60.00, there was a setting underneath called angle between main and return(deg) and its set at 50.00. not sure what to set this at, and when i set it to basic trigger that setting goes away. i then went to more ignition options and set the fixed advance timing to 6.0 instead of using tables, not sure what to set cranking dwell or cranking advance to, but those are at 6.0 and 10.0

maximum dwell duration is 2.8, acceleration compensation is 1, and maximum spark duration is 1.0, what should all those settings be at to start properly?


----------



## jaxgti95 (Dec 19, 2011)

https://vimeo.com/152813675

still sparks like once, but won't start. my CTS and IAT gauges go up and down when I crank which bothers me. I did wire up the hall to the sensor ground with the other sensors, should I give it a separate ground?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

You get consistent rpm while cranking? Clt and iat shouldnt move but all sensors on one ground is fine.


----------



## jaxgti95 (Dec 19, 2011)

need_a_VR6 said:


> You get consistent rpm while cranking? Clt and iat shouldnt move but all sensors on one ground is fine.


nope no consistent RPM when cranking.  and yes those two move while cranking. I am using the DIYautotune harness and on their wiring diagram they have the hall sensor grounding to the black wire in the shielded cable, so im going to try that once it gets warmer outside, im just so confused why they jump while cranking


----------



## jaxgti95 (Dec 19, 2011)

https://vimeo.com/152843161
https://vimeo.com/152843215
so it runs!! I do need to look into my sensor grounds... both the CTS and IAT seem to be reading the same temp and jump up and down... but more importantly gas seems to be leaking out of my intake or exhaust manifold??? is this because of it getting too much fuel, or bad gaskets? i need to get the warm up enrichment right and all that so it runs poorly right now but the gas leak is a main concern and when it runs it smells like pure gas!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jaxgti95 (Dec 19, 2011)

this setting "angle between main and return(deg)" is frustrating, i have no idea what to set it to!


----------



## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

There is another mode where its not used, maybe called dizzy or basic trigger depending on firmware


----------



## jaxgti95 (Dec 19, 2011)

I'll have to check what I'm specifically running but it is ms2 extra code


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------

