# Broke DSG shift pin, can I replace shift mech with late model one?



## Chimera (Jul 6, 2002)

In the process of swapping my 2007 DSG shift knob for one of the round S-Tronic knobs, I broke the shift pin that engages/disengages the shifter (I'd successfully heated and turned the pin 90 degrees to accept the new nob, but must have weakened the plastic because when shaving the pin hole a tad cuz the shift button wasn't disengaging completely, the tip snapped). Having read plenty about this mod, I was speechless when it snapped. 

IF I go the route of purchasing a new shift mechanism, does anyone know if a late model mechanism (with the shift pin already facing the correct direction to accept the S-Tronic knob) would work? If it needs to be replaced, I may as well get one that'll accept the desired knob without modification.


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## NYCameron (Nov 17, 2010)

pics or it never happened

I'm not exactly sure how it's broken either

but you can do some ghetto-ness and it will still work
below is an example of ghetto-ness, and it still works! (not my car)


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## tp.wannabe.s3 (May 21, 2010)

This is why i always tell people to cut t then add a grub screw to it then screw it back i. SO much easier and takes less time to do it.


New mechanism is aroud $800 usd


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## LWNY (Jul 30, 2008)

did it break at the shaft or around where the eye of the needle? The shaft part is repairable. The eye of the needle, you might as well get the front facing shift mechanism.


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## Chimera (Jul 6, 2002)

Broke similar to the pic above. Eye is intact, have about 1/4in of rod sticking out above shift mech. I thought about the grub screw fix, seems like the only viable way of reattaching, but wonder if I'm just going to sink a bunch of time and stress into something that's going to fail at some point or still not work.

Before it broke, the knobs button seemed to have engaged the shift pin but must not have enough because I couldn't take the keys out in park. Does this mean that the pin is somehow too high still?

Are the newer shifter mechanisms the same but with the pin eye facing front/back?


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## Chimera (Jul 6, 2002)

Oh, and does anyone have a link to decent closeup of the back of the stronic shift button to see what lifts the shift pin? Any photos I've seen of a disassembled shifter are taken from too far away to see wth is going on inside the knob.


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## LWNY (Jul 30, 2008)

there is, but as said, you have to change the whole mechanism, which has to be installed from under the car, if I remember.

You probably stretched it when twisting it. With the grub screw, you can screw the tip down to the desired depth in which the shifter lock mechanism could release


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## Maitre Absolut (Aug 5, 2009)

dude search for my thread 

i broke my pin right in the middle, completely ****ed. Almost bought a new mech unit for 750$

Cost me 10$ to fix with a garden hose and some help.


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## Chimera (Jul 6, 2002)

*What size set screw?*

What size set/grub screw did you use? I picked up some 0-80 threaded rod (about 1/16") and a tap to try and thread the two pieces together. Any other advise for the process? Should I remove a small amount of the shift pin to allow adjustability? Thread locking compound?


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## tp.wannabe.s3 (May 21, 2010)

Chimera said:


> What size set/grub screw did you use? I picked up some 0-80 threaded rod (about 1/16") and a tap to try and thread the two pieces together. Any other advise for the process? Should I remove a small amount of the shift pin to allow adjustability? Thread locking compound?


Thread lock is not needed. My has been on car since Jan this year.

you need a 2mm grub screw.

use a 1.5mm drill and then drill 1/2 lengh of the grub screw into the top part.

then drill 1/3 of screw length into the lower part. screw grub screw into the top part first then screw it onto the car.

I didnt feel like buying gurb screws so i cut up some steel screws from my stock.


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## x SMURF x (Sep 12, 2010)

sigh, that f'ed up one nycameron posted would be miinee, :/ screwed in real crooked, part of the + shape is kinda...off, it holds though, strangly enough. i have old one on since new one's button won't push in after being pushed in...:banghead:


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## NYCameron (Nov 17, 2010)

x SMURF x said:


> sigh, that f'ed up one nycameron posted would be miinee, :/ screwed in real crooked, part of the + shape is kinda...off, it holds though, strangly enough. i have old one on since new one's button won't push in after being pushed in...:banghead:


did you leave it at your place?

I can always test it on mine and break it in for you


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## x SMURF x (Sep 12, 2010)

NYCameron said:


> did you leave it at your place?
> 
> I can always test it on mine and break it in for you


haha nah its actually sitting in my glove compartment


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## Chimera (Jul 6, 2002)

What's the proper name for those hand drills? It's looking like a hobby store is the best place for sourcing both small gauge drill and screws locally.


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## tp.wannabe.s3 (May 21, 2010)

Chimera said:


> What's the proper name for those hand drills? It's looking like a hobby store is the best place for sourcing both small gauge drill and screws locally.


yea i used hobby drills.

no idea what its called haha.

im sure u can get it at hobby shop easy. The grub screws u can get off ebay.


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## Chimera (Jul 6, 2002)

*Axis?*

Any suggestions from your experience on how to make sure the two pieces are on the same axis when drilling and setting pin?


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## tp.wannabe.s3 (May 21, 2010)

use a needle to mark the center. poke it into the plastic so the drill will drill where the needle is

use a caliper to measure


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## LWNY (Jul 30, 2008)

Chimera said:


> Any suggestions from your experience on how to make sure the two pieces are on the same axis when drilling and setting pin?


put a straw over the shaft and drill thru the other end of the straw? But you should have a guide hole exactly centered so your drill bit lands on center of the shaft.


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## Chimera (Jul 6, 2002)

*One last question*

The knobs button... When stuck in, I'm able to use a bent wire coat hanger to "pull" something inside the knob that pushes the button out. I then grab the button and hold it out until I put it on the shifter (if I let go of the button, the springs pull it closed). If/when it comes time to try putting the knob on again, does the button need to be engaged in some way that the button stays out on its own prior to putting it on the shifter or can I just hold/wedge the button out and put it on?

The YouTube video I've seen of someone using the Audi tool shows them twisting it and the button pops out and stays out. Will I not have success unless put on in this state (versus pried open and held)?


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## Maitre Absolut (Aug 5, 2009)

it has to stay out on its own, when you have pulled the pin all the way, the button will click out on its own.

i used a paper clip like shown in my thread. look through the shifter hole to make sure the loose pin is perpendicular and then go in to fish it out. you will know when you catch it, you will feel it move but have to pull hard to get it all the way out to click the button.


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## Chimera (Jul 6, 2002)

So with the hook facing same direction as the button, fish around and pull what feels like a dangling pin, correct? Do I rotate the knob while looking down the end of it to see the pin, because when I was trying to get a glimpse before it seemed like nothing was ever in view.

When I've hooked what feels like dangling pin to pull the button out, the button seems to come out without much pull effort but then pulling harder so that I can grab hold of the button still doesn't keep button out on it's own. Do I need to pull even harder until it locks into place? It doesn't seem like the paper clip tool would be strong enough, the spring tension is pretty tight.


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## Chimera (Jul 6, 2002)

*Button not locking*

This is driving me nuts. I've got two different sized "hooks" to pull the pin on the back of the button (metal coat hanger with 90 degree bend at tip just big enough to fit into knob). I've gotten good at inserting, turning clockwise about 15 degrees, feeling the dangling pin, pulling to raise the button. But, the button retracts every time I pull the tool out. I can pull the button far enough out that I can see that the pin basically can't move any further but it's still not catching on whatever it is that holds the button out. 

When pin is hooked and pulled, what holds the button out? Is it the lobe at the base of the pin that rolls over the white plastic bit into a depression that keeps the button from going back in after pin is pulled all he way? Is it at the maximum travel of the pin that it locks in place? I feel like something is out of place internally. Of the 6 or 7 times I put the knob on originally, twice the button popped out (and stayed out) when I pulled the knob off to adjust. It hasn't done it since


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## tp.wannabe.s3 (May 21, 2010)




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## Chimera (Jul 6, 2002)

Thanks for the vid, hadn't seen that one yet. Whether pulling the lever with a paperclip through the opening at the button or hooking it and pulling through the shaft of the shifter, the button doesn't stay out even though the pin/lever is pulled as far as it can travel (tip is against the plastic channel and can't travel further). As soon as I let go of the button with pin pulled as demonstrated, the pin slides back and button goes in.

Any idea what holds the pin in place once pulled (tension from springs, position of pin, slot, lobe in pin, etc)? I'm hoping that once I repair the shifter, I can pull the pin as far as needed and manually hold it there until I slide the knob back onto shifter then release it.

Also, I can get the metal ring at the base of the knob off just fine to better see inside the knob. How do I do I take th rest of it apart? There's pics here but no mention of how they got the button and top off: http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/new-a3-s3-sportback-8p-chassis/70203-pics-s-tronic-shifter-new-s3.html


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## tp.wannabe.s3 (May 21, 2010)

pin needs to be snapped into the slot when you pull it downwards.
\
just pull it till u feel a snap or click into place

to take rest apart requires too much time. you need to take the sline logo off. then u need 2 small flatheads to insert into the slot to realease the clips on top. then u need to take the metal cover off the button after you release the top metal part. there are 4 clips on the button cover. also u need to remove the 2 sprins thatpulls the button inwards. 

its bit more work to do than the way i posted. i used to take whole thing apart


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## Chimera (Jul 6, 2002)

Crap. So my pin, when pulled all the way down as far as it can go in the plastic slot, does not click firm enough in place to hold it. 

When I received my knob from the vendor, the oem bag was already open as if someone had had removed the know from the bag. I wonder if it was a return and the previous buyer had stripped the plastic enough that it doesn't hod the pin. Unfortunately the place I purchased from is overseas and it's been hard enough getting them to ship a different part that want included int anoer order.

From your experience, the pin just needs to be parked in this position so that when inserted onto the shift lever the shift lever plastic insert catches the pin and "threads the eye" of the shift lever pin, correct?


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## NYCameron (Nov 17, 2010)

Chimera said:


> From your experience, the pin just needs to be parked in this position so that when inserted onto the shift lever the shift lever plastic insert catches the pin and "threads the eye" of the shift lever pin, correct?


yeah, so if you manage to hold the pin down while putting it over the mechanism, it might actually work
but you might have issues taking it off (in case you ever sell and want to part the car out)


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