# Replacing rear calipers, rotors and pads



## rjones1214 (Apr 24, 2009)

I was just wondering if there is anything I should know about when changing out my rear calipers, rotors and pads?
My calipers stopped sliding and my rear rotors rusted up and are now shot after winter and the car sitting for 3 months after that. 
I have a manual for my car so I can get all the specs I need, just wanted to make sure that wasn't going to be anything that will keep me from getting this done in 1 day. 

Thanks for any help. :thumbup:


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

You need a tool to retract the rear calipers, because they need to be pressed and rotated clockwise at the same time to retract the pistons before you can install new brake pads.

I posted a message a week ago when I found that Harbor Freight is closing out the Disc Brake Tool Set #40732 for $9.87. This is the tool set needed to retract the rear calipers on MKIVs and earlier VWs.


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## twin2626 (May 11, 2006)

*calipers*

if the calipers are going to be brand new you dont need to retract them but if you do, u can use an adjustable angle grinde wrench.


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

Pay particular attention to cleaning and regreasing the caliper guide pins...folks often overlook doing that on rear brake job since you don't have to pull the pins to remove caliper like you do in front..the pins are located in pockets in the caliper carrier (the head of the pin is the flat you hold with a 15mm open end wrench while you loosen the lock bolt to remove rear caliper) Pull pin..clean good..any rust..polish with fine wire brush/steel wool..if you see deep pits etc..or if pins are rusted into the bores....go to junkyard and get a good set of caliper brakcets..and clean 'n lube (synthetic caliper grease) those pins..replace the little rubber boots if they're cracked...Good sliding action critical for VW brakes to work right...they are "floating caliper" design, and the calipers must float freely to prevent brake drag..which kills you several ways..wears brakes faster, hurts MPG, and most importantly..and expensively..can cook grease outa the wheel bearings which will cause them to fail and wheel bearing replacement (particularly on sealed units) is $$$ repair!


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## rjones1214 (Apr 24, 2009)

thanks, I understand how the pins and calipers work. I fully cleaned the pins on the new(used) calipers I bought before installing them. My old calipers had the bottom pins completely frozen so hopefully these new ones will last for at least some time.


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## RogueK2 (Mar 16, 2009)

spitpilot said:


> most importantly..and expensively..can cook grease outa the wheel bearings which will cause them to fail and wheel bearing replacement (particularly on sealed units) is $$$ repair!


this happened to my set of drums :banghead: the outer bearing completely shattered and the casing is pretty much melted onto my spindle 

most importantly my wheel came off


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## bassep (Apr 11, 2010)

spitpilot said:


> Pay particular attention to cleaning and regreasing the caliper guide pins...folks often overlook doing that on rear brake job since you don't have to pull the pins to remove caliper like you do in front..the pins are located in pockets in the caliper carrier (the head of the pin is the flat you hold with a 15mm open end wrench while you loosen the lock bolt to remove rear caliper) Pull pin..clean good..any rust..polish with fine wire brush/steel wool..if you see deep pits etc..or if pins are rusted into the bores....go to junkyard and get a good set of caliper brakcets..and clean 'n lube (synthetic caliper grease) those pins..replace the little rubber boots if they're cracked...Good sliding action critical for VW brakes to work right...they are "floating caliper" design, and the calipers must float freely to prevent brake drag..which kills you several ways..wears brakes faster, hurts MPG, and most importantly..and expensively..can cook grease outa the wheel bearings which will cause them to fail and wheel bearing replacement (particularly on sealed units) is $$$ repair!


Does the pin just pull straight out or do you have to unscrew it with the 15mm flat at the head of the pin?


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## bassep (Apr 11, 2010)

bassep said:


> Does the pin just pull straight out or do you have to unscrew it with the 15mm flat at the head of the pin?


Never mind. The pin does pull out. But there was plenty of brake grease inside the boot that covers it. No need to add more grease unless your boot is torn up I guess.


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## DuB fresh (Jun 17, 2009)

I found my self replacing pads and rotors on the rear also, just a suggestion for a tool to compress the rear piston..if you go to you local advanced auto (not sure if there is one around you) but they rent out an amazing tool to compress it. It costs around $105 to rent but when you return it you get all $105 back so its essentially free. It saved me a crap load of time.


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## nuskool (Jun 19, 2007)

Ricerboy said:


> I found my self replacing pads and rotors on the rear also, just a suggestion for a tool to compress the rear piston..if you go to you local advanced auto (not sure if there is one around you) but they rent out an amazing tool to compress it. It costs around $105 to rent but when you return it you get all $105 back so its essentially free. It saved me a crap load of time.


I don't care to call it "renting" The money you give them is only a deposit to make sure they get the tool back.

I have borrowed quite a few specialty tools from Checker, Advance and Auto Zone. I would be happy to buy parts from them, but I usually get better deals buying stuff online. So I almost (not quite) feel bad about borrowing the tools, but hey, it's a free service, they just need to be more competitive on parts.


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## rjones1214 (Apr 24, 2009)

I bought the brake caliper tool from Harbor Freight for $10 because it was on sale online and they honored the price in store if you show them the online price. 
It did help but was a pain in the ass to do with the calipers off of the car since they were being replaced.


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## Fishers2000 (Aug 3, 2010)

What about replacing the calipers? Anything special to do in the hydraulics other than traditional flushing and bleeding until the pedal is firm?

I would imagine you first put some kind of vapor seal on the fluid filler port so all your fluid doesn't leak out while the line is broken, then you unhook the old caliper from the brake line and then seal it to the new caliper as quickly as possible, then proceed to bleed the line since you would have done all the other rotor and pad swap before disconnecting the old caliper.

Any quirks or peculiarities in the MKIV? ABS get in the way or require special bleeding sequence or alternative bleeding or interaction with the ABS?


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## fishst1x (Mar 2, 2009)

holy crap how often does one need to replace brake calipers and such...those things arent cheap to replace.

ive got a 09 gti w/ 30k miles on it and my rear brakes just started grinding up for a a replacement.


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

If you flush brake fluid every other year like VW says to...and are smart enuff to read a Bentley B4 trying to compress your rear pistons so you don't screw up the e brake adjuster...calipers should be lifetime parts..I've never replaced one and some of my VW's went well over 15 years and 200K+ miles! If you don't flush fluid for years...moisture collects in the calipers and rusts the bores..which chews up the rubber seals..and you buy new calipers!


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## fishst1x (Mar 2, 2009)

what do you mean by "read a Bentley" ?


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## Fishers2000 (Aug 3, 2010)

Bentley = aftermarket repair manual


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

Fishers2000 said:


> Bentley = aftermarket repair manual


No, Robert Bentley is the Official VW Factory Service Manual Publishing House, NOT AFTERMARKET.


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