# 8v Build~84 Rabbit Wolfsburg Drop top



## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

I am calling on my fellow VW enthusiasts for some much needed advice and direction. At 430,000 KMs my car is in need of a rebuild. After I bought it, (FOR 50 BUCKS!) it sat for 3 years before I started it, and started with a jump. 








It ran rough at first, (I now know it would have been better to put a fuel filter in) and has been fairly reliable, aside from battery drain. I have already corrected some electrical, like the battery to starter, battery to body ground, (this wire had 2 ground points on it originally, I just did one to the frame here) and removed other bad wiring. 
I found a blue and white wire in the fuse box completely melted back. 
I am guessing it was for the 12v cigarette lighter which is not hooked up. 
There are a few other wires melted together there, but just the casings. 
I can address the electrical by replacing wire by wire. 
The other issues I have had were the long warm up period. After starting, the engine would idle very low, with the red light in the dash indicating battery, and there was 8 to 10 volts available. It seemed to keep going, though, the first couple of minutes without touching the gas pedal. 
After pushing the accelerator, often past 2500 RPM, the voltage would go up to 12v, the battery light would turn off, but would drop the idle down to 500-600 if you took your foot off the gas. The idle would slowly improve if it kept running. If you tried to drive cold, there was no power and it would stall. 
After 5 minutes, it would be warmed up enough to drive. By the time it was warm, the voltage was mostly steady as it was driven. It would run reliably, although it had bouncy acceleration in mid pedal. It always starts hot, and could drive right away. Not so much after 40 minutes. 
When i was shifting and other times, the bar gauge was all over the place, between 1 and 3.5! 
Whew!! What does it all mean? 
Recently, after driving for a year, I replaced the fuel filter. That day, I kept stalling at every stop sign, but I guessed it was from really low fuel. The fuel was DIRTY! 
After, it ran pretty good, better than usual. More power. I put my last 20 in the tank, and noticed the fuel pump got very loud, then quiet, then loud, then quiet. I parked the car, and it died. I can hear the pump priming when I turn the key, as usual, but I turn all the way to start, and the starter motor is trying, but no start. My car has died. 
So I am in rebuild mode. 
Engine as it sits now, in the Convertible: 









A better view of the head; It is stamped 26103373H. (With a 52 above it). JH European head. 
Solid lifter, 40 intake 33 exhaust. 8mm valve stems. Made in Germany. 








This is the other side of the engine bay, with battery and air flow sensor. 








Here is a pic of a mystery plug in the back behind the air sensor box, it has 3 wires leading to a female 5 slot plug. No idea where this plugs in. It has been there like that since I bought the car in 2007. 









I have a brand new fuel pump, fuel injectors, seals, fuel distributor rebuild kit, (to ensure proper operation of the fuel distributor plunger). 








I bought a brand new Bosch distributor, just showed up! (Old one was worn out, at about 60%) 








Here is another view, has hall sender with rectangular 3 plug. Date stamp on this part is 1984, and the bottom of the shaft says 2322. The only other option was to buy a distributor with a knock sensor, and I would have had to get a computer for it and wiring harness. 








Brand new Bosch ignition coil, plugs, wires, oil and fuel filter. I will likely buy a new oil pump and did buy a new warm up regulator. What else is a wearing part likely to cause me grief?????? I want a reliable car. 
I am also installing a big bore throttle body, and likely stage 1 or 3 intake manifold. Tri-y headers with cat, and aluminized exhaust, new throttle cable. As for the existing TB, this is what sits in the car. 








There is a tutorial but it uses a different throttle body in the photos. http://www.vintagewatercooleds.com/tech/Techtips/ATStechnotes/throttlebody/throttlebody.htm 
There is another link to a page with more info on what I generally hope to accomplish. 
http://www.scirocco.org/tech/mk2/5000tb/5000tb.html#fox 
The one I bought has a throttle position sensor apparently, (oops) with 3 wires out the bottom of the unit. It has been pointed out by some experts the Big Bore TB in the pics will only work with an automatic, the Convertible has a manual 5 speed 020.








Here's a photo if anyone know exactly what it is. VW and Audi stamped on it, and DVG Made in W Germany on it. 
There is a side panel stamped 
BO 236 
037 
061 K 
Date stamp is 1989 








Could anyone identify which vacuum ports are these two (#2 and #3) and I guess #1 is the mix screw. There is also another vacuum port on the other side, not visible in this photo, But can clearly be seen here. 








The two visible vacuum ports here go right through to the inside wall of the TB, the side towards the intake manifold. Advice greatly appreciated. 
Another view: 








So I am in the market for a Fox? or Cabriolet? Intake manifold 88-89. 

Okay, transmission of power; 
I found a heavy duty Sachs clutch kit, it has 20% increased clamping force. 
Pressure plate, clutch disc, throwout bearing, push rod, bushing and seal, clutch cable and all new bolts, and the release arm just in case. Elring mainshaft seal; Crankshaft seal is silicone. (I will get a new flywheel if needed). 









My front windshield is cracked, and the "chrome trim" is junk. I will clean corrosion and fix it. 
It is leaking slightly into the car when it rains. There is a small rusty patch by the driver wiper. 
I am cheap, so I will find a used glass in great shape off some old junkpile. 
GLUED-IN: 
1983-1984 GTI 
1984 Rabbit 
1983-1984 Pickup 
1989-1993 Cabriolet 

RUBBER SEAL: 
1975-1982 All models (Rabbit, Pickup, Jetta, Rabbit Convertible) 
1980-1989 Rabbit Convertible/Cabriolet 

Some time in mid-late 1989 was the changeover for the Cabriolet. 
2-door and 4-door models are all the same within the groups (i.e. a 1990 Cabriolet windshield will work on a 1984 Rabbit LS 4-door). 
The windshield frames are all the same, so conceivably, you can swap between the two. I've gone both ways on this (put a glue-in in a rubber-style seal windshield, and put a rubber-seal into a glue-style). Each conversion has it's caveats, but it can be done. What can NOT be done, is use a glue-in windshield with a rubber seal on it. You have to glue it in place. 

While everything is apart and accessible, what else do I address? 
Any advice for how to make it a success? 
The car itself is in great shape, and the parts were all very cheap, but good German stuff. Clearout sales abound if you are willing to spend the time to find them. For me, the last 6 months a couple of hours a day looking through the back pages of the internet. Oh, the Bentley manual is on the way too. 
I just traded work for a 1983 GTI, all the serial numbers of the cis system match, and it has a 1.8 block, with 026103373f head. This engine sits with 248,000 kms, (a lot less than the 430,000 kms on the convertible engine.) I am in the process of rebuilding this GTI engine, it will be going in a hot bath next couple of days. New crankshaft, rods, pistons will be ordered soon, after verifying the block and head are in good shape. Bearings, seals and gaskets will also be new. No problem. 
I will likely bore to 81.5 if necessary, and want to rebuild the head. G grind would be awesome! Scientific Rabbit or Autotech? Who to go with? Both heads I have are German. Autotech has Zylinderkopf...Port, no polish! And I do have a spare head... 
Special thanks to Ze Germans for making great castings.


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## Brunke_Stunkelmyer (Sep 21, 2009)

Somethings that might need a test would be the control pressure regulator, and idle stabilizer valve. maybe even your 5th injector. 
When I got my rabbit both my iddle stabilizer vlave and 5th injector needed some attention, after sitting for a while.
:beer::beer:

PICTURES PLEASE!!!


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

#1 is just the Idle Bypass screw, That is for adjusting idle speed. And that TB looks very much like one off of an auto tranny Passat, thus the TPS on the bottom. I have one on my car with the MS. 

I would do a compression test to see where that is at, and if it is good, throw all the new stuff on it and see how it runs after that. If you still want to rebuild it, get new bearings, seals and gaskets and rings, hone the cylinders and have the head refreshed and put on the new rings and the new pump and that should be good. If you want to have a real nice running motor, have the IM shaft balanced along with the bottom-end (including the pp and flywheel) and you'll love it.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

I have a 5 speed 020 in the car...
The compression tests for the convertible engine Are 150, 150, 145, 150. (From drivebelt side).
Would you rebuild this engine if that was your reading? (Assuming, of course you love 1.8L engines?)

These readings were done the same day the fuel filter was changed, and the car died, late July, 2010.
The fuel pump fuse was removed for these tests. 
In the cylinder reading 145 (#3 piston), there was an issue before. The car had been sitting for a few years before I started it with jumper cables, (October 2009) I did not realize this spark plug was not firing for a couple of months. (I did the first tune up of replacing rotor, cap, plugs, wires, oil filter, oil and refreshing the K&N air filter in Dec. 2009).
I was hoping the parts tune would help, it got me around for a while, but it was obvious there was more to it than just that. It needs to be adjusted at all points, and that is a real skill.
There was also a new radiator and expansion tank installed at that time, it just had a rad with a cap when I got it. It leaked. Now it doesn't!


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

The rings must be done on the engine as it sits, at least! I know that the oil seal is leaking, because of the blue smoke coming from the exhaust when throttle is applied. Could I get away with just new gaskets and rings? A vehicle with this much mileage would need bearings, would it not?
Where do I get VW vacuum hose? I may as well do it, the car is 26 years old! Should be pretty simple, with a vacuum diagram.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

The valve stem seals come in a Head gasket set. And I have gotten away w/o doing bearings on a "refresh" in the past, but I also plasti-gaged the bearings to check the clearances.
The vacuum hose can be had anywhere, it doesn't need to be "VW". And the TPS is not used with CIS. The auto uses the TPS for kick-down only.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

Will a MS bolt on to the bottom of this TB (or top?) so I can use it? I was told I only have to use two of the wires coming out the bottom to make it work. Only one of them will not be needed for the CIS, and will be negated. Any other opinions on the matter?


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

MS is not exactly a bolt-on affair. But it will use all three wires(5vdc, ground and reference). I think for the CIS to work, you would have to transfer the switches over. But I would compare the bore sizes to be sure that there is any benefit.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

The amount of air this can push compared to what is on the car is BIG. I looked at mine, and it looked like the one in the picture on the tutorial. http://www.vintagewatercooleds.com/tech/Techtips/ATStechnotes/throttlebody/throttlebody.htm They compare the Scirocco 8v with the big valve, that is the difference.
With a ported intake manifold, stage 1 or stage 3, combined with the large (40 and 33, respectively) valves on either of these heads, it is sure to improve. With headers after that, there is no restriction in the system. I am going to use a high flow cat, because I need to pass emissions tests. A windage tray underneath and oil shield on the top of the head (preventing oil blow-pass) will help with oil issues inherent in this car.
So please lets figure out how to mod it! Maybe out of the bottom of that unit would be a full throttle switch! It came out of an Audi 5000, but it could have come from another car!
If anyone knows how to mod this, let me know.
It has VW and Audi stamped on it, and DVG Made in W Germany on it.
There is a side panel stamped
BO 236
037
061 K
Date stamp is 1989!


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Rabbitissimo said:


> With headers after that, there is no restriction in the system.


You are forgetting the biggest restriction on the "system", that is the head itself. A quality port job on it by someone who knows what they are doing will pay more dividends than almost all the others put together.


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

Ok, someone should tell you that the 924 TB won't work because that TPS is a variable 0-5v signal, and the switches are open/closed 0v or 5v.


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## WaterWheels (Aug 14, 2005)

Read through this a few times, and to be honest, it really is hard to make any kind of meaningful response due to the amount of bouncing around from item to item. I will give my thoughts on what I can pick out without digging too deep, and I guess I’ll wait untill later for any other question to pop up.
> First the throttle body. It will not work in the current condition and there are no mounting holes to install a micro switch (I think that is what MS really refered to). Unless someone has some kind of trick to convert it to being able to mount throttle switches, you will have to get another one. I suggest finding a Cabby manifold and throttlebody being sold as a set on maybe Ebay. One from a newer Digifant engine (2H), the manifold is better flowing then the current one, forget that stage 1 and 2 stuff, and no grinding is needed to mount the larger TB, which if bought together is already mounted.
> Although that ignition distributor is the correct one for the original engine, 1.7L, it is for an automatic. It might not have the very best advance curve for a manual. You can replace the vacuum advance canister with a single port one with no problems. The dual port was nothing but a quick emission thing really and is not needed. If you want something better, look for one used in the early RD or maybe HT engines (I can get a number if you like).
> Which of the vacuum ports you will use depends on what has to be connected. The one facing the rear, not visible in the photo as you named it, is for sure manifold vacuum. I would think one of the front two is manifold vacuum and the other is ported vacuum. In any case, the TB can not really be used as I pointed out and things will change when you have the correct one. If only the vacuum advance will be connected then manifold vacuum is best.
> That second ground should have been kept. VW often uses a ground cable that connects to the frame and the engine/transmission. If you no longer have that cable then get yourself one of those flat braded ground straps and run one(or more) from the engine to the chassis. Due to the rubber mounts it is important to have the engine grounded.
> Think much of your charging issue is that mega power draw for a sound system. That is just a guess on my part it that is what the power take-off on the battery is for. Drawing a lot of power will put a load on the engine and cause it to have a poor idle at times. The dash light and having to race the engine to get it to charge sound like the alternator is going bad, it is not as some would say “normal”.
> Again I assume here, but this bar gauge that bounces around, is it a vacuum gauge? If so it will move around a lot as it is sensing the changes in load on the engine. If it is an oil pressure gauge it will also move a lot, but not as fast or often as one for vacuum. Either one, or both as some like myself use, can help a lot if you learn how to read them and keep an eye on them for signs of trouble.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

B4S said:


> Ok, someone should tell you that the 924 TB won't work because that TPS is a variable 0-5v signal, and the switches are open/closed 0v or 5v.


Thank you! The guy that sold it to me assured me it was the same switches on the top, just a better unit with the switches integrated. There was just no other info at the time to find. Like wandering in the woods without a map. Okay, mystery solved. It doesn't have anywhere to mount switches up top, either. Anyone with an automatic out there need a TB? Hee Hee Or, I could just return it for a couple items he has I know I do need. I wish it worked; it would have cleaned up the look nicely.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

"> Although that ignition distributor is the correct one for the original engine, 1.7L, it is for an automatic. It might not have the very best advance curve for a manual. You can replace the vacuum advance canister with a single port one with no problems."

+My distributor on the car is in desperate need of bushings. It is burning rotors badly. When you grab the rotor, it moves A LOT. I know a guy out in the bush that has a shop, and he has a lathe. He said we could just make some bushings. It seemed like a long shot to me. I could not find bushings for this anywhere. He also has machines to flatten heads and blocks. And a distributor tester.
I guess the question is, would I get as much out of a rebuilt as I would out of this new model, even though it is for 1.7L? 
Would the advance curve be better suited to my car after switching the vacuum advance out? (25 bucks) 
Is the only other difference in the distributor the size of the windows inside the hall sender? Wouldn't I be able to bolt in a 1.8L sender to this unit that has the proper windows? Is it more than just the hall sender inside, is it a gear thing?


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

The windows should be the same on all 4 window dizzies. And as far as I can tell by looking thru my EKTA, there is no difference in dizzies with respect to what tranny is in the car. They are the same.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

ps2375 said:


> You are forgetting the biggest restriction on the "system", that is the head itself. A quality port job on it by someone who knows what they are doing will pay more dividends than almost all the others put together.


Ah, but I am doing a head port. I have an extra German head, and am sending it out to Autotech or Scientific Rabbit after verifying it is good. Autotech's solution to porting is Zylinderkopf, which has sport springs and Ti retainers and other great stuff. Combine it with large intake, TB and headers, it will be a great car. Why do any of it if you don't do all of it?
Any single part with restriction will prevent flow. I don't mind paying to have the head done! Even after reading the MASSIVE porting thread in here I don't know enough about it to do a good job!
I would like to build the entire engine of the GTI, (Pics of the GTI engine are coming soon). and continue to use my Convertible until the GTI engine is ready to be installed. That way, I still have my daily driver. (If I can get it to run.)


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

I don't remember seeing that you were going to have the head ported. And as far as the GTI motor, it should be as easy as a motor swap, with some minor fuel mixture adjustments. I have a 10:1 short block sitting in my garage, but I can't justify the rebuild of it since my current motor only has about 60K on it and is less than 3 yrs old (on its rebuild).FIXED


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

You are indeed lucky, with a motor that young. The great thing about these old cars is they were amazingly well made. Putting in new old stock parts is the closest you get to feeling like they drive new again. And a couple of modifications to improve what we have discovered to be their inherent weakness, we can expect them to perform like they were really meant to. Free up power.
I have always liked this car, since it came out. A lot of cute girls tell me how much they like my car, and some just hop in for a ride. I haven't even fixed it yet!
It IS the people's Porsche, and VW back then made quality, not like the cheap made in China stuff.
I have spent less than 1000 dollars so far, and I could not even buy another used car in a questionable state of repair for that much.
It is worth it to overhaul this car!
The body and undercarriage are solid!
The German made ones were treated with a polymer in all the likely rust areas, and the use of Zinc helps fight rust.
I have owned and driven many cars, new and old, and yes, a Lotus performs better, but the Rabbit is just FUN!
And a brake job doesn't cost thousands of dollars.
Once I have this car running properly, I am going to custom paint, seats, new seals, top and blue furry headliner. A new Optima battery and the biggest alternator I can fit is also the plan. 
Speaking of alternators, anyone know how to put a HO Alt on this car? I love loud music. 
I especially love the simplicity of mechanical. There is logic. I have had SENSORS on other cars cost me over $1000!
I once had an American made vehicle acting crazy almost claim my life as the on board computer crashed. It subsequently burst into flames as I was driving on the freeway.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

Brunke_Stunkelmyer said:


> Somethings that might need a test would be the control pressure regulator, and idle stabilizer valve. maybe even your 5th injector.
> When I got my rabbit both my iddle stabilizer vlave and 5th injector needed some attention, after sitting for a while.
> :beer::beer:
> 
> PICTURES PLEASE!!!


Hi Brunke! :beer: :beer:
The Warm Up Regulator A.K.A. control pressure regulator. This is a pretty integral piece of the fuel system. Not only does it work as a choke for start up, but also controls the amount of fuel available to the injectors.








I bought a new one. It is still on the way, and I will have pics when it arrives. Then I will have two spares (off the Rabbit convertible and GTI) to attempt a mod to make it adjustable.








The cold start valve on either car is rough. I will have to buy a new one, with gasket.
Idle stabilizer valve. Does this car even have one?
I have seen them in front of the intake manifold on newer cars, but does this car have one?
Some California Rabbits have a digital idle stabilizer.
It is integrated into the breakerless transistorized distributor system.
(Hall sender ignition distributor).
As far as I know, my car uses an idle boost valve.
The auxiliary air valve is behind my intake manifold.
The frequency valve is a part of the airbox/fuel distributor, it regulates the air-fuel ratio at the throttle body. I am having a hard time finding one. (at least the proper part#)
I did find one but at $400 it will have to wait!
Not to worry, I will provide play by play on this build as it happens!


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

WaterWheels said:


> > First the throttle body. It will not work in the current condition and there are no mounting holes to install a micro switch (I think that is what MS really refered to). Unless someone has some kind of trick to convert it to being able to mount throttle switches, you will have to get another one. I suggest finding a Cabby manifold and throttlebody being sold as a set on maybe Ebay. One from a newer Digifant engine (2H), the manifold is better flowing then the current one, forget that stage 1 and 2 stuff, and no grinding is needed to mount the larger TB, which if bought together is already mounted.
> .


 Interesting. I like this idea. No porting required? Better flow? Sign me up! But, are there any other issues to this manifold? How does it interact with CIS? I love CIS! I love mechanical! It is relatively affordable!
There must be some way to change out the bottom plug on my TB and cause it to switch the way I want. There has got to be a way. The throttle valve opens when I push the gas, right? That sends a signal to where? Oh, I need the Bentley....!
Patience, it is on its way...
(The electrical diagram is somewhere, I will put it here soon.) We are in the technology age! It can be done.
It sure does seem easier to just bolt something on, though...
Anyways, on CIS the fuel is regulated by the air flow meter. Where do the signals from the TB go?


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

K.I.S.S.

The main killer of projects is someone who thinks too much while trying to re-invent the wheel. Attempting to convert a TPS into two separate throttle switches is a pointless endeavor, considering you can get the TB you need from about 10 million Rabbits/Golfs/Jettas/Cabbies/Foxes/Audis/etc. 

The diagram above is for CIS-basic, no ECU.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

B4S said:


> K.I.S.S.
> 
> The main killer of projects is someone who thinks too much while trying to re-invent the wheel. Attempting to convert a TPS into two separate throttle switches is a pointless endeavor, considering you can get the TB you need from about 10 million Rabbits/Golfs/Jettas/Cabbies/Foxes/Audis/etc.
> 
> The diagram above is for CIS-basic, no ECU.


Just to be clear, the diagram above is CIS Lambda with ECU.
I had originally posted CIS basic, but after the correction, it was changed to the correct one.

Keep it simple stupid. Good idea.
This is exactly why I am posting this build, to save me from myself.
So is the 88-89 Cabriolet the way to go? It has micro switches? It will bolt on? I can keep my CIS? This car has an ECU? Where? Can I get rid of it? 
These may sound like crazy questions, but I have read A LOT of manuals, and I am not a Mechanic. I am just a Dude with a dream. To restore this car. My cousin helps me a lot, but he builds Chevy motors. The old ones. 454 with no computer, just Carbs.
I really do appreciate all the advice, but I still have a question about this.
If the micro switch on the throttle body as it sits only signals full throttle, why can't I just take that signal from one of the wires coming from the TPS? There are three. One is a ground. One is variable 0-5v. Is it possible one of them signals full throttle? What else would it do? 
I am dedicated to better flow, though. I am a hardcore driver, and can feel it is restricted.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

No, ECU.
Looks like you only have a WOT switch. That takes the lamda off-line at WOT. Provides some enrichment then. I would build the motor, get it running nicely on the CIS and see where you want to go with it then. The CIS can support more power than an 8V will make NA, and the CIS when working properly will not go lean at higher rpm's like CIS-e tends to. It however does not like cams with lots of overlap at idle. That tends to worsen the lopey-ness that a big cam cam have, but off idle, it'll work just fine.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

WaterWheels said:


> >1: That second ground should have been kept. VW often uses a ground cable that connects to the frame and the engine/transmission. If you no longer have that cable then get yourself one of those flat braded ground straps and run one(or more) from the engine to the chassis. Due to the rubber mounts it is important to have the engine grounded.
> >2: Think much of your charging issue is that mega power draw for a sound system. That is just a guess on my part it that is what the power take-off on the battery is for. Drawing a lot of power will put a load on the engine and cause it to have a poor idle at times.


Thanks for taking the time!
1. You are absolutely right. I did not realize it was the body and the tranny. I just thought it was 2 points on the body, and I was puzzled as to the redundancy. It did help, though...I will put that grounding point back on.

2. The sound system. Oh, boy. When I first was looking into the wiring, the PO had put a cable through the firewall, in a bad spot, to power the amp. It rubbed against sharp metal. Then, they had stripped the wire bare 2" wide, wrapped a wire around it, then had several other wires coming off it for power of LED stuff! Then, they had put a 3v resistor in line with one of these wires, and tried to use that as switched power for the deck! To end the circuit, (I can only guess,) they had the last wire strapped to ground. WTF? It was the worst electrical I have ever seen. I can't believe it functioned! But it would only take 1 hour for the battery to drain out completely. 
When I hooked it up, I did it right, but I still have work to do to clean up the mess. The weird little red wire actually is for my wiper wash motor. There is a push button to operate it!

I never turn my stereo on until the car is warm, and it is fine when it is running.
I found switched power for my new deck from a black and yellow wire from the defrost switch, as per Cabby info. Works great.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

ps2375 said:


> No, ECU.
> Looks like you only have a WOT switch. That takes the lamda off-line at WOT. Provides some enrichment then. I would build the motor, get it running nicely on the CIS and see where you want to go with it then. The CIS can support more power than an 8V will make NA, and the CIS when working properly will not go lean at higher rpm's like CIS-e tends to. It however does not like cams with lots of overlap at idle. That tends to worsen the lopey-ness that a big cam cam have, but off idle, it'll work just fine.


A G-grind is the same thing as the Euro GTI, is it not? This is the cam I think I would love. If it cannot idle properly, I know I will hate the car after. I like the low end torque. I like to shift down to third to pass, then up to fourth to complete. Fifth to say "See Ya!"

Okay, here is the lambda Closed loop system, and this will all have to tie into the works, if what you are saying about this car is correct. So whatever Big bore TB I get will have to work with this? Or does a different TB eliminate the Lambda? These are the questions. This is why were are here.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

The G grind cam will work just fine. And the Lambda system is a narrow-band sensor and thus has some limitations, the CIS will work just fine w/o it and can actually make better power w/o it. As long as you have the TB switch for WOT, the lambda system should work, if it is functioning now. The CIS can maintain the AFR that you adjust it to at idle pretty well, ours did anyway and we completely disabled the lambda part of the sytem.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

Here it is! The GTI donor car engine before pictures;
VIN decoder says this car is 1983 GTI, built in Westmoreland, Pennsylvania or Portugal.
The "Made in USA" sticker leaves no doubt as to its origin.
The head and block were both made in Germany. 
It looked like it was lightly T-boned on the driver side, but I know it was driven to the spot it sits now. It has been there for a couple of years, hood on.
The Iron block has light surface rust, but a light sand blast and hot bath will take care of that, or show visible imperfections. I plan to install a new oil pan with windage tray. There will be update pics soon.
The cast block will be machined flat, on mating surfaces. I will try to remove very little.








The head will be cleaned up very gently, and once it is inspected it will be sent off to be ported and built. It looks like it will be in good shape.









The donor car has a sunroof glass and mechanism/latch intact, if anyone is interested!


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## WaterWheels (Aug 14, 2005)

Man has a lot been typed in since my last visit here. I'd like to help where I can or maybe fill in some blanks if need be or discuss a issue, but that would require some opcorn: and time well spent working on my own things. Never the less, here goes at least on some of the items above:

~ I only mentioned the battery thing as often people just don’t think about the load being placed on the alternator and engine when some mega power consumption item is switched on. Even having the headlights, heater fan, rear window defroster and foot on the brakes will cause the engine idle to go down and then maybe close to stalling. Throw into the mix a power amp and disco lights and it could be hard to keep the engine running smooth during stop light pauses.

~ Ps2375


> And as far as I can tell by looking thru my EKTA, there is no difference in dizzies with respect to what tranny is in the car. They are the same.


Correct about the distributor being the same. I was looking at a Rabbit page and not the Cabby. Guess due to the extra weight the advance doesn’t matter as much if it is a standard or automatic.

~ B4S:


> K.I.S.S. . . The main killer of projects is someone who thinks too much while trying to re-invent the wheel. Attempting to convert a TPS into two separate throttle switches is a pointless endeavor, considering you can get the TB you need from about 10 million Rabbits/Golfs/Jettas/Cabbies/Foxes/Audis/etc.


That is very good advice. Many "beginners" often make some mistakes that are repeats of what others have done and although attempts to keep people from making the same moves, advertisments, bar talk and the bigger is better brain set seems to win more often. Here are some common mistakes to try to avoid:
> No Plan. Make one before starting to buy parts or do work.
> Under budget. What ever you think it is going to cost, even if you checked all the prices, at 10% - 15%.
> Lying. Don't lie to yourself or people you are seaking help from, i.e. is it really a race car or a street car?
> Troubleshooting lies. Same as above, but if you have not physically checked something, say so, don't say it's OK.
> Believing everything that's said. There are lots of good people and bad people, check the facts, don't just agree.
> Don't muddy the waters. Here is an example, I mean HERE. The original post sounded interesting and the idea is good (having your own "help me do this project" posting). But the running on of questions with no logical flow just turns people away and makes it very hard to provide help. Take it a question or two at a time or lay them out in a fashion that allows others to address the ones they want to or can help with.




> So is the 88 Cabriolet the way to go? It has micro switches? It will bolt on? I can keep my CIS? This car has an ECU? Where? Can I get rid of it?


This is a sample of what I was addressing above, but here goes. Can't say off the top of my head when the 2H motor started showing up in the Cabbies, maybe Scirocco's too? But although they are Digifant II injection systems, the parts suggested will fit and work (with a minor change). The manifold will bolt right on, no problem. The throttle body is the larger type and has the switches. It has two switches that are linked together, so you will just need to use two of the three pins in the connector (the ones for the WOT switch). Yes, you have an ECU. Not the kind many people refer to but it is a "black box" none the less (electronic control unit). I believe your's is located behind the right side kick pannel. Get rid of it? Yes, you can remove everything on the car until you have a basic rolling platform with an engine, but why? For what reason? It is there for a reason and I believe nobody should start deleteing/by-passing/modifying parts or systems untill or unless they understand their function and what effects it will have. But hey, that's just me.



> ""About the ignition distributor"" . . . guess the question is, would I get as much out of a rebuilt as I would out of this new model, even though it is for 1.7L? Would the advance curve be better suited to my car after switching the vacuum advance out? (25 bucks) Is the only other difference in the distributor the size of the windows inside the hall sender? Wouldn't I be able to bolt in a 1.8L sender to this unit that has the proper windows? Is it more than just the hall sender inside, is it a gear thing?


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

WaterWheels said:


> Yes, you have an ECU. Not the kind many people refer to but it is a "black box" none the less (electronic control unit). I believe your's is located behind the right side kick pannel. Get rid of it? Yes, you can remove everything on the car until you have a basic rolling platform with an engine, but why? For what reason? It is there for a reason and I believe nobody should start deleteing/by-passing/modifying parts or systems untill or unless they understand their function and what effects it will have. But hey, that's just me.


I did find a Lambda sensor, so I could keep it after all if need be. This is good advice. But depending in which engine stays in the car? When the GTI engine is ready, would it need Lambda? These two cars do use the exact same part numbers on the fuel distributor, and the air flow sensor. I will check the TB on the GTI.

I also received some advice I will share.

"As far as removing the ecu and lambda , unless you can get an old fuel dist your stuck, a good working lambda will flow more than earlier versions as far as the books are concerned , so if your set up works , use it i think the book says something like 850 cc min!"

Not sure which book is being referred to, but I do have the KJet Manual with Lambda info, I should be able to get it working properly.
Lambda also improves emissions and helps with fuel economy, two things I think make it worthwhile.

When the Bentley arrives, I will begin the hardest electrical work, the melting at the fuse box, and check wire by wire to make sure the system is going to deliver energy where required. I will relay every large load and use the biggest gauge wire the application will allow. (signal/trigger wires do not have to be big).

Alternator questions:
I would like to know how to get a more efficient alternator into the system. Bosch sells High Output Alternators, (150-200 AMPS!) but they do not fit this car. If I could mount one, is there any reason it would not work? I have also read a smaller/better pulley will help an alt to work more efficiently, and are available. 
I can machine aluminum with Carbide router bits to build a mount. (I have lots of Carbide tools and jigs for my Wood shop). 
People say to pull the alt off an 89 VW that has the bolt on terminals. The ones in the junkyards here are JUNK. I could find a new model, I'm sure, (90 AMPS) but what part # am I looking for?
Update:
al33x is a 90 amp that uses same connectors as the alternator in the car.
al27x is a 90 amp that allows you to update the size of the wire going to the starter solenoid.
Both should fit the JH engine.
Make sure before you buy, there were many different JH engines.


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## kamzcab86 (Feb 14, 2002)

WaterWheels said:


> This is a sample of what I was addressing above, but here goes. Can't say off the top of my head when the 2H motor started showing up in the Cabbies...


The 2H Digifant motor was from 1990-1993 in the Cabriolets. 1988-1989 Cabriolets still used CIS-Lambda with JH engines.



Rabbitissimo said:


> I did find a Lambda sensor, so I could keep it after all if need be. This is good advice. But depending in which engine stays in the car? When the GTI engine is ready, would it need Lambda? These two cars do use the exact same part numbers on the fuel distributor, and the air flow sensor. I will check the TB on the GTI.


That's because the '83-'84 GTIs use the exact same motor and fuel system as the '84-'89 Cabriolets/Rabbit 'verts.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

WaterWheels said:


> I'd like to help where I can or maybe fill in some blanks if need be or discuss an issue.
> Hall senders:
> Inside the type you will be using, mechanical/vacuum, are springs and weights which determine the mechanical advance rate and limit. The vacuum advance is done with the canister mounted on the side, with an arm going inside attaching to a rotating plate. That arm pulls the Hall sender around a few degrees to advance the timing as vacuum is applied. That is why there are different distributors and vacuum canisters, vehicle weight, automatic transmission, performance intention, fuel intended, etc.
> Good luck and I hope I can help in the future.


Waterwheels, Thank you.
I am just trying to save myself a lot of frustration before I bolt on some parts that do not work.
I found this same Distributor online last night, selling for 300 bucks Brand new.
It was listed for Rabbits and GTI up to 84.
Update:
The distributor I have bought is listed in the Bentley for use in 83 and up manual except JH.
The vacuum spark advance begins 3.0-4.7, 10-12 maximum.
Centrifugal spark advance 
1050-1400 begins
RPM.....Degrees advance @ crankshaft
2200....15-20
4000....22-26
5000....26-30
After I swap out the vacuum advance, It will be very close to what I need.
I could change springs and weights to make it perform exactly as I wish.
Not optimal, but not very far off, either. I may not even notice.
I still cannot find the 026 905 205D that is suggested for the JH engine.
The vacuum spark advance begins 3.5-4.7, 10-14 maximum.
Centrifugal spark advance
RPM.....Degrees advance @ crankshaft
1050-1300 begins
2600....15-19
4500....22-26
This is difficult information to obtain for those without the Books.
When the Bentley arrives, I will use a voltmeter to check every part for readings, and will post them. This will identify parts that need cleaning/replacing. I have never had a hot start problem, so the fuel accumulator is probably good.
I will get the CIS running on the Car, then do the swap knowing it works.

I wonder why Bosch does not have the JH distributor available but the 009 for bugs are still around?


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

kamzcab86 said:


> 1988-1989 Cabriolets still used CIS-Lambda with JH engines.
> 
> 83-'84 GTIs use the exact same motor and fuel system as the '84-'89 Cabriolets/Rabbit 'verts.


Cabby info was the first site I read after first buying the car, to see if it was worth building.
I think you can see where I am going with this build. 
There are (2) 020 5 speed transmissions here to work with. I am thinking Wavetrac differential W/ARP. 
What I have been researching has been confirmed.
The GTI will be a great source of bits and pieces. 

HOOO HA!:beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

B4S said:


> K.I.S.S.
> 
> The main killer of projects is someone who thinks too much while trying to re-invent the wheel. Attempting to convert a TPS into two separate throttle switches is a pointless endeavor, considering you can get the TB you need from about 10 million Rabbits/Golfs/Jettas/Cabbies/Foxes/Audis/etc.


Okay, so this has been bugging me. I took the Big Bore TB out and was comparing it to the one on the car. They both have the same two stage mechanism, but the BBTB secondary valve is WAY bigger, and the armature is a lot stronger. It bolts right on. 
It looks like I will be able to put one of the trigger pins onto the BBTB (where it is marked Pin), and just have to machine a holder for the micro switch. Piece of cake. On the car, the armature swings open, and when the two pink dots connect, that is WOT.








I could thus totally bypass the TPS, Bob's your Uncle, Fanny's your Aunt, ba da bing ba da boom open wide.

Did you see the shiny zinc coating on the BBTB armature? Mmmmmmmmm...

I cannot find one of the suggested intake manifolds. Maybe a junkyard in the city will have something. 
If not, a stage 3 intake manifold has a re-welded plenum and ported runners. It will bolt right in without all of the plug welds required for a Fox manifold, (which I can't find) and 89 Cabriolets are nowhere to be found in my area. A junkyard search in the city is pretty much a job on foot, and I cannot just drive to the city at the moment.
The rest of the parts are relatively easy to obtain and install. When it is time to tune, that is when it will really get exciting.
I figure most of the gaskets and seals need replacing, (age and condition).
All of these little air/oil leaks do have an effect on the state of tune. Maybe my intake manifold gasket is leaking, and I don't know? This stuff is pretty cheap, and I am going in anyway.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Or, you could just drill and tap 2 holes to mount the switch in it's current holder to the other TB.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

ps2375 said:


> Or, you could just drill and tap 2 holes to mount the switch in it's current holder to the other TB.


Yes, just checked, there is plenty of meat on that side to drill and tap. Hardly a project killer.
I probably made that harder than it had to be, I just needed the right picture, so we could all see properly.

I wonder if there is a micro switch available that would look nicer? Clean it up?
Less Van Halen, more Infected Mushroom?


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## WaterWheels (Aug 14, 2005)

> But depending in which engine stays in the car? When the GTI engine is ready, would it need Lambda?


A Lambda system, O2 sensor system, fuel emission control system or whatever one likes to call it, is not “engine size or engine code” specific. Yes, different engines use different ways to do the same job, more or less, but having one or not having one is not really a matter of engine size or code. It is also not a “power killer” as some may like to believe. No, race cars do not have emission systems, but power robbing is really not the reason why. Your plan as you stated it was to restore the car, I didn’t see mention of building a race car or street racer? And even if you do want a nice little street performance car, the emission system will not hinder you in any way (in fact the system can be used to help).



> . . . . Bosch sells High Output Alternators, (150-200 AMPS!) but they do not fit this car. . . . I have also read a smaller/better pulley will help an alt to work more efficiently . . . I can machine aluminum with Carbide router bits to build a mount. . . The ones in the junkyards here are JUNK. I could find a new model, I'm sure, (90 AMPS) but what part # am I looking for?


As you indicate above, there are 90amp alternators which fit your car and they should be enough for almost any situation, I would think. I don’t see the need to re-invent the wheel as they say or start machining custom one-off parts (for a restoration project for sure) when what you need is already there. I have also seen for sale up-grade kits for alternators, maybe there is one to increase the 90amp to some level higher, don’t know. 

I would not go so far as to claim all “junkyard” alternators are junk. I have had some real nasty looking alternators that I cleaned up, installed new brushes in and mounted that are still working perfect to this day. Unless there is a part inside bad, like a diode or break in the wiring, there is not much to go wrong with them, they just look dirty. I can get you a part number or two for a 90amp but the sticker has to be still on the alternator and readable too.



> It looks like I will be able to put one of the trigger pins onto the BBTB (where it is marked Pin), and just have to machine a holder for the micro switch. Piece of cake. cannot find one of the suggested intake manifolds. Maybe a junkyard in the city will have something . . . and I cannot just drive to the city at the moment. . . If not, a stage 3 intake manifold has a re-welded plenum and ported runners. and 89 Cabriolets are nowhere to be found in my area.


I know and do understand that this is your project and your money, but why keep looking towards fabricating or machining things? Can the car be driven currently or are you in a rush to get it on the street? Are you really thinking restore the car or just get it back into shape to drive and look good? These throttle bodies and manifolds should be easy and cheap at places like Ebay or the sales pages here. Using factory parts makes fixing and replacing all that much easy later if need be. A "stage III" manifold, sorry if someone looses a sale, is really a waste of cash for what you are doing. What exactly does "stage III" mean too, or is it one of those common sales tricks like camshaft or ignition adds? If a stage III manifold does all that much, just how then will it work with an un-modified engine? Kind of like installing a sport cam on an engine with a tiny restricted exhaust, right?

I am not trying to change your mind or make you think as I do. I do not want you to change your plans for your car to meet my plans or goals for my cars, past or present. What I do want to maybe do it get you to think before you jump into something. Does it fit into my plan? Will it really make things better and if so how? How can I do this more simple or do I have to make modifications or do fabricationing? Where is my money best spent? I have spent so much money and tried so many usless trick modifications over the years due to advertisments and hype talk. So please don't feel I am against you when I attempt to turn you away from the smae mistakes.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

WaterWheels said:


> What exactly does "stage III" mean too, or is it one of those common sales tricks like camshaft or ignition adds? If a stage III manifold does all that much, just how then will it work with an un-modified engine? Kind of like installing a sport cam on an engine with a tiny restricted exhaust, right?


We all know the intake manifold on these cars is very restrictive. I would love to find a Fox or 89 Cabby manifold in a yard, but they have been picked clean. A stage III manifold is a part available right now to order. Scientific Rabbit has taken a manifold, ported the runners, and re-welded the plenum (the part we are likely to grind through when modifying the TB to manifold opening). This opens it right up.
I will be putting Tri-Y headers on this, with 2 or 2.25" exhaust, I am porting/rebuilding the head.
If I leave the intake manifold the way it is, the rest will have been done for nothing.

I cannot explain the reasoning for wanting to do it other than "feeling" that I do not have enough air, having driven this car hard for 6 months. 
Okay, sure, maybe it has more to do with unmetered air entering the system due to vacuum or gasket leaks, but that is being addressed as well.
These mods have been dyno tested, and others seem to agree, from what I read, and I have been researching what to do to this car for a year.
If I eliminate any potential leak with new gaskets and seals, I will not have any unmetered air entering the system. That is what makes CIS problematic.
The air sensor plate controls the volume of fuel being sent to the injectors. If air leaks get in, it does not raise as much, thus less fuel is delivered.
When the large port on the TB is opened, more air can flow into the engine, lifting the sensor higher. A Big Bore TB allows more air in the combustion chamber, burning fuel more completely.

The shock wave of the explosion in the engine sends out waves of pressure. These bounce back and forth in the exhaust manifold, and on Rabbits, this is a bit of a problem.
Headers remove the gases in balanced length tubes, one from each cylinder, and expel them more efficiently.
Again, this is just what I have read, and many sources say the same thing.
I believe these 1.8 engines can do a lot more by breathing easier.
What is supercharging or turbo? Forcing air into the engine.
My car is NA, naturally aspirated. I just want to give it some ability to get metered air more efficiently.

I love these old VW's, I just want to do an old car justice. And, for me to want to drive it, I need just a little bit more out of it.
I am starting with the engine, exhaust and fuel because there is no point in ANYTHING cosmetic until it is driving properly. When it runs right, that is the time to think about new seats or whatever.
Your technical advice has been appreciated! I welcome all opinions!


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

WaterWheels said:


> I didn’t see mention of building a race car or street racer? And even if you do want a nice little street performance car, the emission system will not hinder you in any way (in fact the system can be used to help).
> What exactly does "stage III" mean?


*Stage III Intake Manifold ~ Expect more than 7 HP gains depending on other modifications.
For hot street, boosted and racing applications, mid to high rpm gains. For best results use with modified head, cam and exhaust. 25% more flow over stock. Extensive porting with re-welded plenum.
*Big Bore Throttle Body ~ Expect 4 - 5 HP increase.
*G grind cam ~ Expect up to 4 - 9 HP increase. 
*Headers ~ Expect more than 10 HP increase.
*Cylinder head ~ Expect a big grin! Ported, with new valves, sport springs, lifters, etc.

Power output of the engine is directly proportional to the amount of air and fuel that it can ingest, 
the goal is to pack as much mixture as possible into the engine during the intake cycle.

As the exhaust valve opens a few degrees before dead center(or at TDC for that matter), the exhaust gases exiting the combustion camber create a pressure wave. This pressure wave of exhaust gases also form a sonic pressure wave. A sonic wave travels the speed of sound. The speed of the exhaust gases travels slower and is based on the diameter or the tube and other restrictions. When the high pressure sonic wave reaches a large area change, such as a collector, muffler, or end of pipe, the wave reflects backwards and changes pressure(from positive to negative).

So the high pressure wave exiting the head, entering the header, reaches the first pipe merge reflects back toward the head as a negative wave. Sucking additional gases from the chamber. If the valve timing(during overlap period) and wave timing is the same, then the (sucking) wave pulls air in from the intake system at several times the force than the piston does. Before the piston even has started to pull air in. When this happens the combustion chamber is filled with fresh charge, and the intake process is off to a quick start with high velocity intake charge. this has been called the 5th cycle on racing motors.

Here are some basic calculations Scientific Rabbit did to see how long the runners on the headers needed to be to give the boost of intake charge.

Sonic wave travels about 1130 ft/sec in hot air
Basic cam timing is 1/2 crank rotation.(keep things simple)
Equation ((1/2 crank rotation/rpm) x wave speed = total distance /2 = runner length
((30/rpm) x 1130)/2

rpm vs. runner length
1000 16.95 ft
2000 8.48 ft
3000 5.65 ft
4000 4.24 ft
5000 3.39 ft
6000 2.83 ft
6500 2.61 ft

It seems that tuning for 6000 to 6500 rpm is reasonable. That would mean that the first collector(point where two pipes merge ie area change) would need to be about 2' long. Since the port length on the 8v motor from valve to gasket surface is about 5 inches.

Picking the Right Muffler

"The trend is that as flow is added to an initially flow-restricted engine, power increases rapidly at first then gains tail off. Once the available flow exceeds about 2.2 cfm per hp, the gains possible by increasing muffler capacity drop to less than 1 percent."
"Knowing that 2.2 cfm per open-pipe hp means zero loss from back pressure allows us to determine how much muffler flow your engine needs."
For instance, a VW 90 horsepower on open exhaust will require 90x 2.2 = 198CFM

Exhaust Science Demystified

Compression

The stock JH 8 valve motor found in the Rabbit GTI, some 1.8L Rabbit Convertibles and some Scirocco's has a static compression of 8.5:1. There are various techniques to up the compression, to up the horsepower and torque. Replacing the pistons with flat top pistons or decking the head. The pistons found in the JH motor have dished pistons.

Compression Ratio increase


% increase of horsepower(normally with equal torque increase)

8.0:1 to 9.0:1
1.8% increase

9.0:1 to 10.0:1
1.3 % increase

10.0:1 to 11.0:1
1.0%

11.0 to 12.0:1
.8%

12.0:1 to 13.0:1
.6 %

13.0:1 to 14.0:1
.5 %
Source "Volkswagen Performance Handbook" by- Greg Raven 1987

Compression Ratio = (CD + PV + HV + HGV)/(PV +HV +HGV)


Where:
CD = Cylinder Displacement
PV = Piston Volume
HV = Head Volume
HGV = Head Gasket Volume

Cylinder Displacement = (bore x bore x stroke x .0031416) /4
Plugging in JH values in mm:
445.22 CC = (81 X 81 x 86.40 x .0031416 ) /4

Values for stock JH motor:
PV = 21 cc
HV = 28 cc (this varies between heads, and combustion chamber on the same head 28 cc -30 cc )
HGV = 9 cc

Compression Ratio plugging in JH values
(445.22 + 21 + 28 + 9)/21 + 28 + 9)
(503.22)/58 = 8.67 
Expressed as 8.67:1

Increasing Compression

Decking the head - removing material from the surface to decrease the volume of the combustion chamber. Removing 0.040" of an inch reduced the volume to about 26 cc.

Rerun calculation with revised HV values
(445.22 + 21 + 26 + 9)/21 + 26 + 9)
(501.22)/56 = 8.95 
Expressed as 8.95:1


Now you see the math behind the calculations.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Don't think you can just add all those numbers up and have the "added" HP from the mods, it doesn't always work that way. The TB is a nice update and the "G" grind cam is also nice. I have both and they do help. I have had both the long and short versions of TT's downpipes and also various headers. I liked the "race" dp better of the two(made for w/o cat) and am currently running a Tri-Y header, Very nice, but if you go header, be sure to have motor mounts in proper working order and the brace from header to block to help extend the life of the header. And the biggest I would suggest for exhaust is 2.25" and a "turbo" muffler of some sort but not the Flowmaster, they are loud and harsh sounding to me and I don't think there is enough volume moving thru them to make them "work" properly.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

ps2375 said:


> Don't think you can just add all those numbers up and have the "added" HP from the mods, it doesn't always work that way.


Funny thing about math...

It is great to hear about someone else using the mods I am about to attempt.
I believe without fixing the gasket/seal/fuel issues, these are a waste of time, and HP will not be realized.

I too was suspicious about the Flowmaster.
Borla seems like the way to go, from what I have heard.
A high flow catalytic converter will actually provide some required back-pressure.

I will be using the Heavy Duty motor mounts with polyurethane inserts.
I think this front mount on the car is worn out.








The header brace is super important! It could rip off without it!
Even if it does not add up exactly, it will increase throttle response.
The Wavetrac differential is a part that will have to be obtained a couple months later, along with
H&R coilover suspension. That should put all this horsepower to the ground, possibly increasing WHP.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

I have the poly front mount and just added the diesel rear mount after finding that my header had started to crack. I also made a brace to the block as I could not find a stock one in the yards. I took that opportunity to weld the header and have it ceramic coated.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

WaterWheels said:


> Your plan as you stated it was to restore the car, I didn’t see mention of building a race car or street racer?


What I meant by restore the car I mean new fuel lines, rebuild the fuel distributor (replace with new plunger and spring and NLA o ring), new copper washers and gaskets and seals EVERYWHERE. Most of these on this car are disintegrating, or will need to be replaced as the system comes apart. Did you see the Fuel distributor to fuel filter line? Yuck!
It in itself is 69 bucks, so it is not cheap, but peace of mind? PRICELESS
I might as well do everything while it is apart, I will have the access. 
Just replacing the motor/trans mounts requires lots to come out. While it is apart, it would be silly not to take that opportunity to swap out a few bits!
If I do most of the install work, leave the porting and tuning to the pros, this set up will cost me all of about $4500. Everything included. I will make a list of what I used and what I paid.
It would cost a LOT more if I didn't look around for bargains.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

ps2375 said:


> If you want to have a real nice running motor, have the IM shaft balanced along with the bottom-end (including the pp and flywheel) and you'll love it.


Where would you get work like this done? Do you mean with a lathe, to remove any wobble?
I can't imagine you would add weights to these parts.
I only say this because that is how they balance a wheel.



ps2375 said:


> As long as you have the TB switch for WOT, the lambda system should work, if it is functioning now. The CIS can maintain the AFR that you adjust it to at idle pretty well, ours did anyway and we completely disabled the lambda part of the sytem.


I'm a little reluctant to ask, I should know this. But what is AFR?
Are the little Viton o rings for the Idle adjust on the TB the same for all models?
(Another source of potential leaking, unmetered air).


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Rabbitissimo said:


> Where would you get work like this done? Do you mean with a lathe, to remove any wobble?
> I can't imagine you would add weights to these parts.


Yes, on a lathe to remove the wobble.



Rabbitissimo said:


> I'm a little reluctant to admit it, But what is AFR?
> Are the little Viton o rings for the Idle adjust on the TB the same for all models?
> (Another source of potential leaking, unmetered air).


AFR= Air/Fuel Ratio

and I think the o-rings are the same.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

One other issue I have is sloppy shifting. I put a used junkyard shift linkage in the car last December, because the plastic ball joint pivot thing broke. What a terrible thing to have to do in freezing snow. 
The metal shift pivot housing is fine, I can just paint it.
I found a new pivot kit. It was only 20 bucks!
The kit has the spring for the shift rod, and an improved pivot. It just slides into the metal housing, with a tight rubber grip to keep it there, (just like the original).
Lithium grease inside the pivot area will help it feel smooth. This saves about 70 dollars in parts.
($45 for the pivot w/ housing, $25 for the plastic and silicone bushings, and $20 for the Delrin bushing.)

A heim-joint shift linkage is available for $140, it goes all the way to the front, made of metal w/zinc coating! (No rust). The shift rod link is weighted, helping it throw better, and never gets sloppy.
This costs a lot more than the $17 it would cost to get the plastic interlocking stock linkage, but I use my shifter, not my brakes to slow down, and I will not trust plastic for that job. Plus, I saved 70 dollars on the other shifter parts!


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

So here is a basic outline of things to check/replace in your old Rabbit.

Start with a complete tune up (if not recently conducted):
• Replace ignition components: spark plugs, cap, rotor, wires (use Bosch ignition parts only)
• Replace air and fuel filters
• Replace injector seals and idle screw O-ring
• Tighten the injector holders; replace the injector holders if needed
• Check for vacuum leaks using carburetor cleaner (spray around hoses, gaskets, injector O-rings); if idle goes up,
leak found (replace faulty part — use a bit of RTV when replacing gaskets)
• Check your K-Jetronic grounds
• Test your Lambda sensor and replace if need be
• Check your throttle switches and idle boost valves
• Check your CIS system and control pressures
• Check your distributor’s centrifugal and vacuum advance mechanisms
• Set your timing, if need be
“Do not try to correct engine trouble by making simple adjustments to the idle speed or the idle mixture (CO).
Changing these settings without the proper measuring equipment will only be a hindrance when trying to locate the real fault.”

~I was very tempted to just adjust my idle speed to try to raise it up, but I suspect that
when all the new gaskets and seals are installed, I would just wish it was right back where I started.

Here is the official K-Jet troubleshooting guide for your viewing pleasure:


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

So I need a part number for the intake manifold from a 89 Cabriolet. Or, Fox? I may have located one, but I need to verify it is correct before it is sent.
Will the cold start injector be in the same spot on the cabriolet?
I will check the auxiliary air valve as well.
Here is where they sit in the Convertible. (Passenger side , left above engine)








Auxiliary air valve - testing:

1: To carry out this test, the engine coolant temperature must be below 30°C.
2: Detach the distributor HT lead.
3: Detach the auxiliary air valve electrical plug and ensure that the contacts in the plug connector are in good condition.
4: Connect up a voltmeter across the contacts of the plug connectors, start the engine and run at idle speed. The voltage reading must be a minimum of 11.6 V. If a voltmeter is not available, a test lamp will suffice to check the voltage supply.
5: With the auxiliary air valve electrical plug still detached, leave the engine running at idle speed and pinch the air inlet duct-to-auxiliary valve hose. The engine speed should drop.
6: When the engine is warmed up to normal operating temperature, reconnect the auxiliary valve plug then pinch the hose again. This time the engine speed should remain unaltered.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

Here is an overview of parts for CIS.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

Lots of the info I post here is to help me with my project, having it all in one thread, instead of bouncing all over the internet trying to remember where I found critical info. Here is something I ran across months ago, but couldn't remember where I found it.

FUEL PUMP WIRING TIP:
Note: The following information is not documented in any of the A1 Bentley service manuals, and you may want to keep this service tip with your Bentley. The wiring diagrams do not show the following VW engineering change to the wiring of the CIS fuel pump relay.

Back in the late 1970's, VW was having a problem with the melting/burning of Pin A8 in Socket A on the back of the fuse panel with ceramic fuses due to the high current load created by the CIS fuel pump. Pin A8 provided +12VDC via a BLACK/GREEN wire to the fuel pump and to Control Pressure Regulator and to the Auxiliary Air Regulator.

What VW did to eliminate this design problem with the melting/burning of Pin A8 was to totally remove the internal circuit of L14 (socket L) to pin A8 (socket A) and install a remote fuel pump socket and extension harness with an auxiliary plug that plugged into socket L.

Voltage from terminal L13 (socket L) is now routed to terminal #2 of the remote fuel pump socket via a large RED wire of the extension wiring harness.

The voltage output to the CIS fuel pump is now provided by terminal #8 of the remote socket on a large RED/YELLOW wire to a "pigtail" connector with two RED/WHITE wires on one branch and a BLACK/GREEN wire (ie fuel pump wire) on the other branch of the pigtail connector.

So if your A1 has the remote fuel pump relay socket on the top of the fuse panel, and you want to test the relay by installing a jumper wire to make the fuel pump run, then do the following:

Only remove the fuel pump relay from the remote socket and keep the extension plug in the Socket L on front of the fuse panel.

Using a good light, find terminal #2 (large red wire on back of remote socket) and terminal #8 (large red/yellow wire on back of remote socket) on the remote socket.

Install jumper wire between terminals #2 and #8 of the remote socket. This will provide a direct +12VDC to the CIS fuel pump.

So to bypass the fuel pump relay, just pull the relay from the remote socket and install a jumper wire between terminals #2 and #8 on the remote socket on the top of the fuse panel.

"Thanks to VEExDUB for jogging my memory about this wiring change, and the fact it is not documented anywhere in the Bentley service procedure or wiring diagrams. Cheers, WWR."

For lots more amazing info:
http://reflectionsandshadows.com/a1-tech/


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Or to figure out how to jumper the relay, you can look at the relay, which BTW, has it's input/output circuitry printed on it, and jumper the corresponding pins at the socket. To take even more heat oyut of the fuse panel, you can put remote fuses on the heater fan, rear defroster and I run the radiator fan directly from the battery with an in-line fuse. I have had those on my car for at least 15years, if not more.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

ps2375 said:


> Or to figure out how to jumper the relay, you can look at the relay, which BTW, has it's input/output circuitry printed on it, and jumper the corresponding pins at the socket. To take even more heat out of the fuse panel, you can put remote fuses on the heater fan, rear defroster and I run the radiator fan directly from the battery with an in-line fuse. I have had those on my car for at least 15years, if not more.


So, do you still have a thermostat switch for the radiator fan, or is it a constant cooling off scenario?
(Some people do that, you know...)
I was thinking of getting a second waterproof fusebox for the engine compartment, just from a wrecker in good shape. That way, I could put some things in I would like, such as stereo components or lighting and things like that. 

I have been waiting and WAITING for the Bentley manual so I could get the proper order of the Cylinder head bolt removal, I do not want to damage (warp) that GTI head.
It may still be over 2 weeks for it to show up... Anyone have the sequence? I just want to get the block in the hot bath!
I searched Vortex yesterday, the only result that had the order was for a V20.
Google didn't help much. 
I will be filming the removal of the GTI engine, and posting the Video, and/or pics.
Should be fun! It is in a hard to access place surrounded by aging vehicles, (one of which holds the original legendary bombproof Yamaha SHO V6). This engine is one of 15,000 ever made, and was a $10,000 OPTION on a ford Taurus.








Beautiful. Yes, the SHO is for sale, will be on Ebay in the next couple of weeks.
There will be a towing scenario, followed by a forklift operation and ripping apart of the GTI.
WARNING! This may get ugly....


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

The bolt removal should be the same as the 20V. And yes, I have still have the thermoswitch in the rad to control the fan.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

Okay here comes the GTI from donor headquarters... Gonna be a rough ride, but no problem for a modified dodge to do the pulling ~ 700 horses 850 ft/lb or something crazy like that!








Here is a video of this crazy truck and the treasure from below...

Here is the other side

So I started the teardown, bolt by bolt. Here is the proper sequence to install your cylinder head bolts.
The cylinder head bolt removal sequence goes in reverse, to keep your head from warping.








Here is the fuel system taken out, it is in pretty rough shape, but is repairable! The fuel lines can RIP.
There are lots of banjo bolts and the box is a candidate for some modification.








Here is a weird thing I didn't know was at the back of the air sensor/fuel distributor. I wonder what it is? I may need a new one.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

Okay, just to show everyone what a big difference the throttle body secondary valve size is, here are some comparison photos. The shiny one looks like the path of least resistance, does it not?
It looks like the primary valve is the same for both, so it only provides more air when your foot is heavy. 








Then the boot side, notice how much less metal there is to interfere with a big inhale.
Not to mention it is way more aerodynamic.








Bolt on HP.
I am going right back in the morning to finish the job, strip the block bare, and get it into the hot bath.
Yeah.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

That valve is the frequency valve that is used by the Lambda controller to control the AFR.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

ps2375 said:


> That valve is the frequency valve that is used by the Lambda controller to control the AFR.


I was wondering where the Frequency valve was hiding.
This part is considered unobtainium, as far as I know.
I haven't come across a single one (new) in all my searching.
Would someone please show me the way?
Where do you get this part?


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

The sun beat down on this black GTI for the teardown. Lots of wind. HOT.
Perfect day to investigate the inner beauty of a 1983 GTI.
248,000 Kilometers is 154,000 Miles, in case you were wondering.
After paying close attention and taking LOTS of pictures.
I unplugged the wiring harness.
I will be using it to recreate new wiring to some of the major components.
Lots of grounds on this engine go to a bolt that holds on a coolant flange on the right side of the cylinder head.
The timing cover had to be removed, and tension released.
The valve cover had to be unbolted to remove the timing cover.
The cylinder head opened up to reveal a glistening marvel of engineering.
Craftsmanship is a word that comes to mind.
Here is a shot after vacuum, coolant, fuel and electrical were removed.








Ahhhhh.....
Here is a better view of what is inside.









Now the head is about to come off.
I remove two spring clamps that hold the exhaust manifold to the downpipe.
I want to remove the intake and exhaust when the head is off, the bolts are pretty crusty. 
I remove the head bolts in the opposite order of installing them. They were torqued on well.
I only get them to move slightly at first, in order.
Then a little bit more of a turn, in order for all 10.
Once more, in sequence for all bolts, and they come out.
The head is off!
Oh wait there is still one in there ... wait a sec... The head is off!
No warp whatsoever. Nice and flat. Beautiful.
Not only is the head off and safe, the bore is at 81, original to the day it was made. 
I don't think anyone has ever been in here since day 1.









There is no wear, on any of them. The original crosshatch can be seen, and there are no ridges.
You can see how high the piston travels, but it has not carved away the walls at all. That is just oil.
It is in remarkably good shape.
Oh I know it looks ugly, but wait till you see it come out of the hot bath!
This is the block and transmission without the head.








Now that I have the head out I can be more careful about removing the manifolds.
As you can see here the exhaust is REALLY encrusted in decay.
On the plus side, those valves measure 40 and 33, respectively. Nice.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

For the intake manifold, which was less severe, I gently tapped the allan key into the bolt with a hammer, to re-establish its geometry. Once I had it seating to the bottom, I could apply the pressure it required to unbolt it without stripping something.








The rusted out exhaust manifold bolts are a completely different story.
They are going to have to be dealt with.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

WaterWheels said:


> I can get you a part number or two for a 90amp but the sticker has to be still on the alternator and readable too.


Do you have a part number for the biggest alternator that will bolt on the GTI?
It would be appreciated. I would like to find one new.
Bosch has a notice about charging problems in wet weather for all alternators that fit the car.
VW sells a shroud for the belt that prevents water splashing on it, which was the problem.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

The intake manifold came off without incident, even though one bolt was close to being stripped.
Imagine if I had tried to take off these bolts with the head still mounted. 
Not in this state of decay. No way.








The exhaust manifold bolts are seriously rotten, and the metal is rusted right over the end.
This is surgery, the goal is to get the head, block and tranny out safe.
I will have to cut the ends off clean and vise-grip the bolts in order to remove them.


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## ny_fam (Apr 3, 2004)

Seems you have two primary options for your over all project you need to choose.
1) get the 1.8 swapped, and keep it mostly stock except for things that are worn out and need replacing. Leave everything else stock. Get everything in good working order, then start making upgrade changes and learn what works and whats needed. This takes more time, but less money up front, and you get the point of knowing what your doing and less wasted time and money.

2) Build the engine they way you want it now then install, work out the issues in the engine and the rest of the car. This option requires you know now what your doing or someone working every step of the way with you that does know. And costs a lot of time and $ now. Some of these never finish, and are a great source for parts for you to buy.

Tips: It always takes longer to finish, you need more parts than expected and it costs way more than you think. Expect it and plan for it. Be realistic with your power goals, and expect that you'll always want more power than you have.

Cheers 
ny_fam


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

ny_fam said:


> Build the engine they way you want it now then install, work out the issues in the engine and the rest of the car. This option requires you know now what your doing or someone working every step of the way with you that does know.
> Cheers
> ny_fam


:beer:Cheers!
This is honestly the only car I have ever touched, mechanically speaking. I have never even changed oil on a car.
A few years ago I didn't even know you had to put oil in a car. Yeah. That's right.

A car roaring to life is a magic I stood in awe of. I often contemplate just how did the first one get invented? Who could have figured out how to harness an explosion? Amazing!

I have finally caught an interest in the dirty grimy clickety clack that powers a car. No longer will I drive a car, unsure as to exactly what is going on down there in the engine bay.
I have been reading. A lot!
Armed with a Bentley manual, there is no telling what I might do.
I have a pretty good understanding of the fuel system, and I am more than capable with electricity.
Volkswagen must mean addictive, because I need more.
I have driven many amazing cars, but this is the only one I ever wanted to work on.
Maybe it is because it is so accessible.
Thanks to a community interested enough to post a how to on transmission rebuilding, or how to get more out of a little car, I have been able to understand the big picture.
Thanks to the people who look at an old beat up car and say, "It's still good."
I have done my research, and as I pull the GTI apart, I know what almost everything does.
When the instructions arrive, I will be unstoppable.
It sure does help to have good people in my corner to show up with a special flywheel device and impact wrench when I am stumped about how to remove the crankshaft pulley.
Good people who just want to hear the tires squeal! HOOO HA!


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

So the engine mounts came out without incident, and the only real trouble was the driver side drive axle. There was one bolt underneath (8mm 12 point) that was barely accessible. I had to get the bit in as far as I could, then use a small wrench to remove it. The block, transmission and differential are free at last.
















I wasn't sure if I would have to get a new flywheel or not, but the teeth on this one are in great shape.
I will only know as it comes apart, but I have a good feeling about this. If it is in good shape, I will balance it and use it again.









So far the only issues have been a stripped flywheel bolt, not a problem because I have brand new German bolts.
I even bought a few extra just in case.
Also, the bottom cover plate had one bolt still holding on due to it having been stripped before.
It is a circle, not a hexagon. Not a problem, an extraction bit will pull it out.
I have been able to use the tools I use to fix my woodworking machinery, it is all metric.

I just realized this is post #69 for me. Giggity!


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## TheMajic86GTI (Aug 9, 2009)

Rabbitissimo said:


>


Yoooooo....Do urself a favor and invest in some jack stands(since ur working on the dirt put plywood under them too while ur at it so they dont sink). Or atleast put cement blocks under the car or something to prevent the car from falling on ur face!!!! Ive seen those hydraulic jacks fail many of times. Had one fall on a friends head in front of me, dont worry he's ok he has a hard head :laugh::laugh:but he got extremely lucky...


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

TheMajic86GTI said:


> Yoooooo....Do urself a favor and invest in some jack stands(since ur working on the dirt put plywood under them too while ur at it so they dont sink). Or atleast put cement blocks under the car or something to prevent the car from falling on ur face!!!! Ive seen those hydraulic jacks fail many of times. Had one fall on a friends head in front of me, dont worry he's ok he has a hard head :laugh::laugh:but he got extremely lucky...


Not to worry; I may have been a bit careless about removing this powertrain, but when ALL the parts arrive, I will be going indoors where there are jack stands, and just about anything you can imagine.
Those lifts ARE dangerous! A little twist releases the pressure. 
So easy to accidentally drop everything, just by touching it the wrong way.
I wasn't worried about the oil pan, a new one is coming.

There is a big machine that flattens blocks here! An old distributor tester!
When my Rabbit goes in, it will be done safely, and carefully.
I am also going to strip all motor mounts, micro switch mount, and belt covers and anything else attached to the block and put them in the hot bath, then repaint them.
I want to get any aluminum anodized, but I will see about that. Maybe, maybe not.
There are a couple of guys that have an anodizing setup somewhere around here.
Apparently, the color is derived from frequency!


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

A very crucial NOS part has arrived today, and what a relief! I was cheap with the shipping and it took a long time. I thought maybe it wasn't coming, it almost seemed like it was too good to be true.
But here it is!









The engine will be stripped on the outside, and the crankshaft is coming out. More photos very soon. Hot dip coming up!


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

So everything has to be removed from the block in order to clean it properly.
Here are the likely suspects.








A few more in the lineup...









I am not sure if a flywheel can be resurfaced, it has a bit of light rust on the inside.
The clutch had been replaced at some point, but the PO used a cheesy aftermarket jobby, not Sachs as Jah had intended. The pressure plate was in terrible shape, but newish.
The flywheel is German.








Now, with the oil pan removed, we can see the heart of the engine.








It is recommended to use a new oil pump when rebuilding an engine, but I think I will reuse this one.
The gears are mint, and there is a way to remove the pickup tube, and clean the filter.
I think that would be the only issue, and as this is mechanically driven, nothing is wrong with it.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

So with the oil pump removed, the pistons and connecting rods must be marked per cylinder.
If they are to be re-used, they must go back from whence they came.
If the block must be bored, only the connecting rods could be re-used.









So the connecting rod nuts are removed, the rod caps carefully removed, bit by bit.
Place them in a plastic tub with a lid to keep them together, but separate them from each other.
It just helps to avoid damage to parts which may be re used. 
The protruding bolt is covered in order to protect the journal on the crankshaft.
Wouldn't want to scratch that up!
Then simply push the piston & rod away from the crank and out. Same for the other 3.








The connecting rods were numbered, suggesting they have been balanced.
This is yet to be confirmed.

So with all of the connecting rods and pistons removed, the main caps must be removed.
They were numbered by the factory, no need to worry there.
The thrust washers were a little tricky, there were 4, VERY tight fit... Wiggle them out. 









The crankshaft is free!
Its journals will be carefully measured, and as you can see by the drilled weights, it has already been balanced. Probably not the best way to balance a crankshaft.
Seems like it would cause some drag, maybe I'm wrong.









So now the tricky part, the last of the bearings are for the intermediate shaft.
Problem is, they are not two pieces that come apart, but one solid ring.
Cannot leave them in for the bath...
This tool will push them out. The pink dot indicates the bearing being removed.









So now the block is bare naked, and will have to be scrubbed clean before the bath.
Contaminants (oil, sand, grease) must be removed as much as possible for best results.
Here is a better look at the numbers embossed on the block.









The GTI block, stripped naked, is getting ready for a bath.
When it comes out, it will be ready for paint, then a fresh rebuild.








:beer: :laugh: :beer:


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

The exhaust manifold was holding on with a vengeance.
It did not want to let go, so one of the bolts had to be cut off.
Part of the manifold had to be cut out with it.
The head is now free, and is dead flat.
Here is a peek inside Ze German cylinder head.









The gunk is just carbon buildup, or grease, but the inner shape is visible.
This head will hopefully turn into a gleaming, polished beauty filled with titanium and silicon-bronze.
New valves.... Mmmmmmm....

Stay tuned; More to come!.....


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

So today I pulled apart the dash on the GTI.
The interior is burgundy, with red trim. 
The trim pieces all came out safely, and are in great shape!
The wiring harness is formidable, and there are many differences between the GTI and the Rabbit Convertible.
Many of the plugs are different. 
The VDO gauge main panel has far fewer resistors than the Convertible.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

I just had to check the progress of the engine block, see if some of the grime has come off.
Wow! The results are truly phenomenal!
A bit of a light wire brush on the outside to remove any last trace of rust, and this block will be going back into the bath, where it will sit for just a little longer.
Then, a degreasing formula, then on to primer!








The oil pan was put in as well, it was very solid, but crusty.
It did not look at all salvageable, in very rough shape, but the bath revealed a very pristine workable component!
Baked-in oil contaminants were loosened to the point they could be lightly wiped away!









Parts list is being compiled, micrometer measurements will tell the tale.
Looks good so far....


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## MacGruber (Aug 20, 2010)

For more parts leads, your 1984 Rabbit looks to be identical under the hood to my 1987 Scirocco. Same intake manifold and solid lifter head exactly. You could just order an alternator for a Scirocco with air conditioning -90A. Idle speed is controlled by that solenoid bolted to the strut tower and relay #1, which I have had to replace. Have you looked inside the fuel tank? Certainly the strainer inside must be replaced. My tank even had rust from the half full point up. 

On your transmission can you wobble either drive flange? The driver side one is under heavy side loading. Bad motor mountings will do evil stuff to the axles and drive flanges. I have had to replace the output seals and drive flanges. Does either one have 100mm CV joints?

I too was wondering about checking the oil pump since mine has even more miles on it than your Rabbit. Adjusting the valves, after far too many miles, reduced oil burning.

1984 Audi 4000 1.8L is same setup as a 1989 Fox. The intake manifolds do look different than what have. Audi one is closer to a cylinder. Aux air regulator is on other end below throttle. CSV sticks out at odd angle , fine for a Fox, but on Rabbit or Scirocco is pointed at firewall. Here is a link about modifying the manifold to put the CSV at the far end: http://www.scirocco.org/tech/mk2/5000tb/5000tb.html

I just happen to have a manifold for a 1984 Audi 4000S 1.8L (049133223AA 1H WWO) sitting in my garage from a used head I bought. On the CSV end is a 29mm boss with a 17mm plugged hole in it. Interested in it? Have to ship from U.S.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

MacGruber said:


> Have you looked inside the fuel tank? Certainly the strainer inside must be replaced. My tank even had rust from the half full point up.


I have not looked inside yet, I have had weird fuel issues since I started the car.
Probably some water in there somewhere.
I did, however, purchase a new in tank pump with screen, and a new main pump.
Depending on some financial factors, I may purchase new fuel lines all the way back.
Depends on how extensive the engine parts become.
The tank will be pulled out and cleaned, then re installed.
Not sure how to do it other than pulling it out of the car.
Anyone think that is excessive? Have you seen my gray fuel?



MacGruber said:


> On your transmission can you wobble either drive flange? The driver side one is under heavy side loading. Bad motor mountings will do evil stuff to the axles and drive flanges. I have had to replace the output seals and drive flanges. Does either one have 100mm CV joints?


Do you mean the differential that is mounted to the transmission, where the drive axles mount?
I could not believe the driver side axle was as short as it is. The GTI diff seems to be solid.
The diff in the convertible will be inspected when it comes out, I suspect the GTI is in better shape.
(Based on mileage).
I will be installing a Wavetrac Differential a couple of months later, when the funding is there.
Not sure if it will come with the output seals and drive flanges.



MacGruber said:


> I just happen to have a manifold for a 1984 Audi 4000S 1.8L (049133223AA 1H WWO) sitting in my garage from a used head I bought. On the CSV end is a 29mm boss with a 17mm plugged hole in it. Interested in it? Have to ship from U.S.


After careful inspection of the intake manifold from the GTI, I have decided to port the runners and plenum myself. I kept trying to figure out how people would port the runners after they curve.
It turns out only about 5 or 6 inches need be ported on the runners, then it opens up inside, where it enters the plenum. I am going to try to do it, and if I screw it up then I will buy one.
I would love to see some pics of the one you have.
It is just like the Fox manifold from the link you posted? Is it shiny? Is it cracked? More info!


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## MacGruber (Aug 20, 2010)

Here is what Audi 4000S manifold looks installed: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/2827182764/
Mine is a bit corroded on outside and usual carbon on inside. It just needs cleaning. Where would a stock intake manifold crack?
I would first have to replace the entire exhaust from the head to the muffler before it makes sense to install it on my car. Thanks for the pictures by the way.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

MacGruber said:


> Where would a stock intake manifold crack?


Usually on the underside above the exhaust manifold, where heat and stress take their toll.
Quite often near a bolt, allowing unmetered air into the system, causing CIS problems.
There are a few people on this site this has happened to.
Header manufacturers discourage header wrap, it makes it too hot.
The heat of the exhaust manifold radiates in the engine bay, and the intake manifold ( made of aluminum) is directly above it.
I might take an old amplifier carcass to make a heatsink, in between.
They are made of aluminum, and have cooling sinks on them, and would still allow air movement.
I wonder if it would help or hinder...



MacGruber said:


> Thanks for the pictures by the way.


I know I'm having fun! 
I wish this info was here to see when I was looking around for how to build my car up.
I hope what I am doing will help the next VW freak!


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

A reason header wrap is not recommended, is due to corrosion. If the metal is not coated, and it gets wet/damp, it will corrode much faster. Thus a good hi-temp ceramic coating works well and will protect the metal from corrosion if it is wrapped.


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## teknikALLEN (Jul 14, 2010)

Rabbitissimo said:


> After careful inspection of the intake manifold from the GTI, I have decided to port the runners and plenum myself. I kept trying to figure out how people would port the runners after they curve.
> It turns out only about 5 or 6 inches need be ported on the runners, then it opens up inside, where it enters the plenum. I am going to try to do it, and if I screw it up then I will buy one.


 Check out ny_fam here on the Vortex or his web site Scientific Rabbit.. He did some tests and found the shorter the intake the better. Mk1 intake is the shortest.... I believe he actually adds material at the bends before porting.


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## teknikALLEN (Jul 14, 2010)

I would also not do a header... a cast dual outlet exhaust manifold does wonders to spread the heat around. TT has a dual down pipe that works with a Mk3/Mk4 exhaust manifold. It is expensive and you need a short shift kit (comes with the pipe). It only comes in stainless, but allows a bolt up to a cat back system. 
I actually use an old out of production 2" TT dual down pipe which is bolted up to an early US Mk1/diesel exhaust manifold that works quite well. I may have a SS one copied.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

If I do not use a header I will miss out on the 5th cycle!


----------



## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

So I have been ripping out anything in good condition.
I will be selling the dash and trim, it is in very good shape.
(I know this is hard to believe, looking at this pic) but it is true. 
Here is what a 1983 GTI looks like without the dash.









The pistons were cleaned up, and measured well.
I could install new piston rings in them and use them again, if I wanted to.
The block will be honed tomorrow, if the new hone arrives.
The one available is way too big for this little 4 cylinder.

















I spent many hours today trying to remove the engine mount left on the transmission.








The bolt was seized, and would not let go.
All I wanted was to remove the mount safely so I could press out the motor mount.
Maybe even clean and paint it.
It took heat, strength, industrial strength penetrating liquid and the impact wrench to budge it.
And a lot of patience.
It finally came free. These bolts could not be used again.
A source for bolts: In Canada: http://www.oemhardware.ca/catalog.htm
In America: http://www.boltdepot.com/socket-products.aspx








This is one dirty FK.








This too shall pass...


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## MacGruber (Aug 20, 2010)

*drive flange grease seal*

My favorite oddball possible problem with MK2 VW: Notice the green grease seal in the drive flange. It can come loose if the flange wobbles too much on the output shaft splines. The seal is right up against the output shaft is why. OIL will actually seep through a deliberately created open slot in the splines of the output shaft/drive flange and then past the loose seal. The resulting liquid mix of oil and moly grease can actually rupture the CV joint boot. Ridiculous. VW changed to a force fit drive flange which I believe is incompatible.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

(MK1... or, alternately A1, whichever you choose...)
So there has been parts arriving in a steady stream...
All the while work goes on.
I have taken time to disassemble the head with great care to arrange all parts in the order they come out.
If anything is in great shape, it will likely still work.
The solid shim under bucket lifters are like new, and fit properly.
I may need to change the shims, likely.








After a lot of time and effort...Something to work with.








Same thing for the valves and springs...
That is the metal housing for the shifter, all cleaned up and ready for paint.
That was gnarly. I wish I had a before shot...








The face of the GTI looks 26 years younger. 
I love the way it came out.
I can barely wait to build this back up! I still have to paint...








There is still work to be done, and the flat surfaces will be resurfaced, just barely.
A little difficult to see, but there is some porting.
There will likely be a 3 angle valve job if that is truly my destiny.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

This is the best part of all...
I had faith that the Cylinder Head was going to be flat and true.
I somehow believed Aluminum, being less likely to rust, would survive living in a field.
I remember the first time I came to see the GTI sitting down there.
I took one look at it and said to myself, "What a piece of junk. No one would ever want it."
I was reading a lot, and there was a lot of good qualities in that particular engine and tranny.
Then, I was talking one day with my cuz, who builds engines. 
He said the rust is almost always only on the surface of quality castings, like old Chevy blocks.
Or, this vintage of VW watercooled. Should be in good shape under all of that oil and rust.
These old blocks are also seasoned, and will ultimately produce more power than a new block.
I took the chance, very skeptical. He was right.
















The small hone had arrived, and there is a nice cross hatch on the smooth walls.
Special thanks to this master mechanic helping the job along.
Just waiting for bearings and gaskets!


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

The intake manifold is being ground to accept the larger throttle body.
A little port work with carbide on aluminum goes quickly.








The gasket that came with the larger TB serves as a template for deciding what to remove.
The manifold will come clean. Hopefully I don't have to put the head in a vise.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

*FINALLY!*

The Bentley has arrived!
I got more info in a half hour reading this book than I could obtain in all my internet searching.
There is lots of misinformation out there in Internetland.
I still think the Bentley has a few errors...








But aside from a couple of misleading statements, this book is incredibly informative.
That green on red is psychedelic...


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

I have made a decision on how to proceed with this build.
The head is being ported according to an article by David Vizard.








































Special thanks to Jettaboy1884 for posting this on a thread here in VWVortex.
The Three angle valve job and radiusing will be employed.
According to the article, the Intake port on the head will suffer if polished, so it will be left rough.
As far as I can tell, it suggests to polish the exhaust, to expel the gases quickly.
For now, I will only be replacing a few parts inside the head.
A Valve kit is something I could install just by removing the valve cover.
I have brand new valve guides, valve stem seals, injector holders and gaskets for the head.
I almost ruined this head when one of the injector holders got stripped on the way out.
I had to use a cold chisel to carefully remove it, chunk by chunk.
The valves will be back cut, but otherwise are not very worn.
I will likely go with OEM valves if I do buy new later, but mine are in great shape for now.
I am aware small stem valves and guides exist (7mm), will increase flow, but I cannot justify it now.
After the car is running smoothly, I will look at that option.
Most likely scenario? I will do that to the head in the Cabby.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

Some of the essential parts have arrived!
For the main and rod bearings, I really wanted to find KSKolbenschmidt, original supplier to VW.
I found them! 
















Even after reading the Bentley Manual, there was no real explanation on resistor and non resistor plugs or wires. As far as I can tell by searching, you use resistor plugs (WR7DC) with non resistor wires, OR non resistor plugs (W7DC) with resistor wires. The whole ignition system cannot exceed something like 13,000 ohms resistance. Then there is heat range, (W8DC), etc. etc... for upgraded/boosted cars. Even platinum, instead of copper (WR7DP), four prong platinum (WR7DP+). The old school guys say Bosch single copper is best. No foul. Problem is, the German ones are long gone. China is stepping up to make non resistor Bosch plugs again.
Please, if anyone knows more about this, or has correct info, I will edit this post.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

Since my warm up period was long and erratic, and the fuel system on the GTI was not much better than the Convertible, I decided to replace some essentials. Lambda O2 sensor is still coming...








According to the Bentley manual, the Fuel Distributor control plunger (meter) cannot be replaced due to each being precision fit to its housing. It can, however, be cleaned.
http://www.vintagewatercooleds.com/tech/2007/cleaning-the-cis-airflow-sensor/
The Bentley has a section on adjusting system pressure. (Fuel).
If the (fuel) system pressure is not between 4.70 and 5.40 bar (68 and 78 psi), it can be adjusted with shims. If it cannot be adjusted, you have to replace the fuel distributor.
The Fuel Distributor is $1280, obsolete and cannot be obtained. There are aftermarket options that cost $550 or more, original rebuilt for $480 but you need a core.
That is why I bought a replacement Pressure Relief Valve for $50. Bosch NOS. German.
It is the primary control pressure regulator. The WUR is the secondary.

Now that the Bentley is here, I know how to isolate an electrical fault to a particular fuse.
That is worth the price of the book in itself.
I will be able to track down which fuse hides the power leak, then troubleshoot just that circuit.
I will take some photos of how this is done when I find the leak.
It is not simple; the electrical diagrams are like reading Pyramid walls!
_Now, what does the bird sitting on a wavy snake mean again?....._


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

Lots of the metal housings are being sandblasted and refreshed and painted.
















This is definitely a lot of work but how tacky would it be if I just left these rusty?
You can see how pitted the belt cover was, it was stripped to bare metal, and the rust was really aggressive on this particular surface.
Recognize the shift housing? It was bare bones not long ago. 
Rust is the enemy. Fight to win!


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## ny_fam (Apr 3, 2004)

Just an FYI from what I found is that the techniques used to port the 1.6 head is a little different than porting a 1.8 head.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

ny_fam said:


> Just an FYI from what I found is that the techniques used to port the 1.6 head is a little different than porting a 1.8 head.


Anything you would do differently?
Would you share that type of information, or is it an industry secret?
Are the valve angles the same?
Obviously the seat sizes do not make sense for a 1.8 as shown from the article.
Essentially, the principles are the same.
Or are they?
Have there been any books published relating to the JH engine and performance?
It should not be this difficult to find info on a 28 year old engine.


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## Brunke_Stunkelmyer (Sep 21, 2009)

Rabbitissimo said:


> Anything you would do differently?
> Would you share that type of information, or is it an industry secret?
> Are the valve angles the same?
> Obviously the seat sizes do not make sense for a 1.8 as shown from the article.
> ...


There was a guy whom was building a JH for a sprint car ( I think he was out of germnay, he sounded old school), he had a pretty good idea of what he was going to do for machine work. 
For the love of me I cant remeber what the thread was called. :beer:


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

The casting flash left in the block from its creation was sharp and can promote failure of the block.
Aside from that, this was very finely machined block.
I took the time to grind it smooth and blend it in with the general shape of the curves.
The machinist here told me the metal is much stronger than the American blocks he works on.
It took a long time to grind, and as it was my first time, I was just making sure my hand did not slip.
One nick in the wrong spot and game over.
I suspect these blocks were heat-oil treated by Germany.








There was a very rough patch right next to the oil pump seat, I just smoothed it out.
These arrows indicate the spots that were blended.
















There is a strange bump of metal indicated by the*?*
I am just going to leave that alone. Was it welded? Part of the process of creation?
Maybe it is structural...


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

More parts arrived!
I did not know what gasket kit to buy. _tt_ sells a great gasket kit for $140. Very tempting.
It was in the budget to buy the Techtonics set, it has every (German) seal for the engine.
I decided that I would go with these instead.
I still had enough left over to buy a Bosch Auxiliary Air valve.








I do have some excellent seals I can substitute for ones I do not like in this kit.
I need mostly just the O rings and Head Gasket.
I'm sure they will hold.

There is not a single store within 300 miles that carries the vacuum line I need.
I could not find it in any online store, except one. I needed nothing else from them.
So, I got it through the buyers group the Machinist uses.
Turns out Mercedes still has them! I thought I was getting hose and line, but it was all vacuum line.








I have already found the vacuum hose anyway. I will likely have extra.

Even though a lot has shown up, there is still more to come.
I have dealt with a lot of different companies, a couple have been exceptional.
No one seems to have all the things you need. I am spending the most on OEM Bosch parts.
Even those are a good deal, but good luck finding them.
Border crossing fees are ridiculously expensive. WOW!
A reliable car? Priceless....








Lots to do tomorrow......


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

I spent most of my time yesterday cleaning the pistons.
They were soaked in solution then washed clean.
The piston ring grooves still had lots of grime in them that would interfere with a proper seat.
The (oil?) holes in the pistons were all so plugged that I could not push the gunk through.
I ended up using a tiny drill bit to drill the gunk out. 
Most came out in logs, still holding the shape of the passage.
I completely disassembled the pistons and rods, removed the old bolts, and cleaned the sticky varnish.
All the while taking note of original assembly position.
I am confident they will work great when re-assembled.
The connecting rods are forged. Strong as the day they were made.
I am taking the time to do things properly now so I can enjoy the silky smoothness later.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

Work continues on the block and head, lots to do.
A wire brush cleans up the surfaces of the sides of the block where the crankshaft plate mounts.
There is great difficulty in finding the hollow pins that are pressed into the sides. 
Without them removed, a stone cannot flatten the surface.
Since I cannot find them, a wire brush will do.









The motor brackets were cleaned recently, and today they were sandblasted.
Cannot have engine grease in the blasting cabinet.
Peering into the cabinet through the glass with my hands inserted into the long attached gloves felt strange, must be what the Doctor feels like helping bubble boy.
They were stripped and ready for paint.

















This motor mount was a bit frustrating today. 
The old mount insert in it had a rusty metal sleeve with a rubber middle.
There was not enough of a lip on it to press it out, so I had to do it the hard way.
I used screwdrivers and chisels and pounded the inside edge back, to try to remove the sleeve.
It took what seems like forever. I got it out.
Getting the new mount in will be easy with the hydraulic press, there is enough support pushing in. 









When I got back today, I discovered the bushings had arrived!









The mounting brackets that will hold them turned out great.









I want to proceed with the valve job in the morning, but I really need to know what exactly I need to do in what dimension. I wish Vizard's article was for this exact head.
I will be sending out the Convertible head for a proper cnc port and new valve kit, this one I just want to tweak and get running.
I will probably be searching for a JH porting thread all night.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

Brunke_Stunkelmyer said:


> There was a guy whom was building a JH for a sprint car ( I think he was out of germnay, he sounded old school), he had a pretty good idea of what he was going to do for machine work.
> For the love of me I cant remeber what the thread was called. :beer:


I wish for your memory of this thread to reappear! Then let me know!....
I am on the verge of proceeding without caution!
I just need to know the valve job angles, backcut slope and exact dimensions to make it right.
A person needs special tools to do this, anyone willing to share data? Not every Joe has a valve seat grinder at their disposal. Help save a German head from being destroyed!


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

This has been my view lately...








Just getting everything prepped for the build, I have been waiting for the connecting rod nuts to arrive.
Since I have the time while the parts are in transit, it is good to refresh some rusty old metal.
I still cannot believe how effective this process is at renewing metal.
The distributor gaskets were really cheap, heavily discounted, and they only had 6 so I got 'em all.
I know I will be pulling that thing out for tweaking.








Tomorrow I will be washing the block with hot soapy water and cleaning the passages.
A long stem wire brush will scrub deep inside the passages. High pressure air will blast it out.
I am surprised how plugged up an engine can get.


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## MacGruber (Aug 20, 2010)

*Spark plugs and wires*

More on your fuel system: the plastic fuel reservoir/mixer is directly above the fuel pump - on my 1987 anyways. This has a full length screen built into it. Could clean or replace it. 

About the standard plug wires: The wire itself has nearly no resistance, so the total R is: 
1,000 built into the distributor rotor and then the plug wire ends (5,000 + 1,000). Sum=7,000 ohms 
Another oddball VW repair story: The chain stores will sell you a rotor with ZERO resistance. They look identical. I was stuck on an exit ramp off of I-255 with a completely vaporized distributor rotor! All but the cylindrical part of it turned to dust. 
The Bosch platinum+4 plugs work fine and last years. I just brush off the deposits is all. 

The 1980-84 Bentley manual does not include the transfer pump at all. The wiring diagram has the CIS controls all over the 9 pages. The 1985 Bentley manual has the complete fuel system done on pages 1, 2. However, to save $$, many photos and rebuilding sections are gone. I have a PDF of it - $5 on ebay, then it cost me $25 to print it out. 

Valve cover gasket - can buy a one piece rubber version. Worth the $$ to avoid an unseen oil leak dripping down (inside the timing covers) onto a spinning axle and attacking all rubber parts behind engine. I am using one from a 1996 2.0L but with the stud rings removed. 

The valve job: "Water-Cooled Volkswagen Performance Handbook By Greg Raven" 1987 or 1999 and much of it is on google books. His esteemed advice is to pay a pro, but does mention 60 deg angle into the port, and as in Bentley, 45/30 angles and specified seat widths. 1985 Bentley shows the 60 deg cut, with no dimensions.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

MacGruber said:


> The 1980-84 Bentley manual does not include the transfer pump at all.


 I know! and yet when I went to inspect the fuel level sender it had the plug and two tubes on the top. 
Exactly like the one I saw online doing an in tank pump repair. 
I am waiting for clamps and hose before I go in there. 
My car was made in May 1984 in Germany for the Canadian market. It is a little different. 
It was right on the cusp of the change from Rabbit Convertible to Cabriolet. 



MacGruber said:


> How to do the valve job: Greg Raven - "Water-Cooled Volkswagen Performance Handbook By Greg Raven" 1987 or 1999 and much of it is on google books. His esteemed advice is to pay a pro, but does mention 60/45/30 angles and that seat width is critical: 2.0 mm intake & 2.4 mm exhaust.


 Thanks a million; I have noticed that book round the way. 
I almost bought it 3 times but a rare part always won precedence. 
Is there a way for you to add a pic of the diagram of valve and seat angles? 
The machinist that is helping me has the valve and seat grinders here. 
All he needs is the degrees and seat width. 
Searched the forums and not much came up for this specific head. 
He has blueprinted many many engines (never VW) and has a trained eye. 
All of his suggestions were very close to what the Vizard article was suggesting. 
This GTI head has 40mm intake valves, and 33mm exhaust valves. 
I will be back-cutting the valves, there is a ridge on them. 
I am going to be very light with my porting on this head, so it can be done properly later. 
Just smooth bumps out, blend, and remove any protrusions. 
I want to get the engine built up and running, and send the Cabby head out to the Pros. 
The heads are easy to swap out anytime.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

Spent more time today on the intake manifold, mainly trying to remove the carbon and grease. 
Lots of scrubbing and pressure washing was required. 
Now that it is clean enough, it can be shot with glass bead to refresh the outside surfaces. 









Couple more necessities are here, I still haven't broken the $2000 mark for the entire project! 
Including a couple more shipments still on the way. 
(Not including my arrangement for the used GTI motor and Transaxle). 
















The alternator is for some 89 VW models, 90 amps. Remanufactured in Germany. 
The mounting bracket from the GTI motor fits! 
The connectors are different, this one can accept huge wire, spade terminal. 
The old alternator was 65 amp, and was not charging well. 
The wires were small, with special plugs. 
I also have new blue exciter wire to run to the dash. 
That tells the alternator to charge the battery. 
Hopefully I will not have an alignment issue with the belt. I can get an adapter if need be.


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## MacGruber (Aug 20, 2010)

*Valves*

Here is some info on 3-angle valve job for JH engine: 
1. Bentley has the seat specs on last page of chapter 5. 
2. 1985 manual: 








3. 1987 H2O cooled Performance book: 








4.. Decent diagram amongst idiocy at http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4836064. 

Someone else is building a supercharged 1.8L G60 with Eurospec JH head: 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3833508 
I thought interesting - the GTI 8v head was in the supercharged Corrado.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

MacGruber said:


> Here is some info on 3-angle valve job for JH engine:
> 1. Bentley has the seat specs on last page of chapter 5.
> 2. 1985 manual:
> 
> ...


 Thanks MacGruber! 
These days I have almost no time to find the info I need. 
That really helps me a lot! That G60 build is crazy! 
Most important, though, was the diagram you linked. 
Been searching till my eyes were sore, couldn't find it. 
May riches be heaped upon the name MacGruber!


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## MacGruber (Aug 20, 2010)

Correction: the linked post is for someone assembling a G60 8-valve supercharged engine using a non G60 non standard solid-lifter JH head. Way to go.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

MacGruber said:


> Correction: the linked post is for someone assembling a G60 8-valve supercharged engine using a non G60 non standard solid-lifter JH head. Way to go.


 Still a great link to an interesting build! 
No harm no foul


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

The last parts shipment came in today, just in time for an absence of skilled hands. 
The mechanic assisting me isn't available until Tuesday or Wednesday. 
This last package had the Windage tray, and other essential seals. 
I later discovered the oil dipstick was not going to work on the GTI motor. 
The shaft on the block is short and the tube too small in diameter to fit the funnel portion. 
The Rabbit Convertible engine has a long flared dipstick tube, it fits perfectly to the funnel. 
That is just fine, because I discovered the original GTI one in the trunk recently! It's good! 









I guess that is not the last of it. I still need exhaust parts! 
I want to buy a 4-5" round stainless muffler, (2.5" in. & ex.) with slanted Ti burnt tip. 








Just header, cat, pipe & muffler. 
Use 2.25" pipe, weld and/or bend here. 
What does a resonator do? 
What will happen if I exclude a resonator? 

There was recently a slight setback; the Intermediate Shaft bearings I ordered were too small on the inside diameter by about 20 thousandths of an inch, even though the part numbers matched. 
Catalog error; A new set had to be ordered; they now fit perfectly.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

So I was left with the grinder, a variable speed plug, and three carbide bits for aluminum.
My mission? To rough out the inside of the runners with an aggressive tooth.
There were a few annoying bumps inside the runners, they had to be ground down.
The yellow arrows indicate what disrupted flow due to excess aluminum, imperfect bends.
These areas were thicker due to the mounting bolt allowances.
I had to take great care not to remove any more than necessary in these spots.
Removing too much would make the manifold weak and prone to failure.








There was an outline of carbon deposits to follow for the general shape of the porting.
It matched the gasket shape, and will still need some fine tuning to get it as good as possible..








I am an artist and a sculptor, and I made my way through the opening.
Down the Rabbit hole I went, twisting and turning, the sights stranger all the while.
Checking constantly with my touch, I made sure the runners open up as balanced as possible.
A little progress one tube at a time keeps it consistent. 
It was a little difficult as each tube bends a different angle, I had to carefully observe and maintain the equal balance of all while trying to remove material in fattest spots. 








So due to global warming it is mid October and there is sunshine and grass.
Here in Canada, Igloo season is postponed for now.
It is cold; it won't be long now...








To be completely honest, I was terrified of doing this modification, and it has delayed me.
I just had to educate myself as best I could, and just dive in and get a feel for it.
It did not take long to understand the best angle for the cutter to slice nice.
Firmly locked body held the tool in a grip less prone to chatter. Movements were very deliberate.
















Emery cloth or sandpaper will smooth out and further shape the runner walls, but will not polish;
It is coarse enough to leave a good scratch on the walls.
Good thing too, it's getting pretty rough.The bit I used to get way in deep was scary.
It runs at 25,000 rpm and when it starts, it bends out into a cone then runs straight again.
I really had to hold on with a white knuckle grip. What a monster! 









The new valve guides have been installed, and are sitting pretty.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

So back to the old grind... I have got to be the slowest ever at fixing a car.
It is a good thing it is not a race.
So, in order to do a good job on this head, I had to prepare properly. 
The last couple of days were spent researching.
I read http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4628897-Porting-the-8v-head..... on this forum, and looked at EVERY LINK and got a really good understanding of what exactly is desired in porting and flow, wanting to maintain velocity for the low end.
The cutaways were a big help.
I put some studs into the head to align the gasket.
The gasket now matches the intake manifold perfectly. Now it's the head's turn!
Here is the exhaust gasket being used for scribing.








Now I have coated the surface with dye.
Carefully scribed marks indicate the ideal path.

































I know a lot of people like to grind down the valve guides.
I am just not convinced after watching the old guides pressed out.
There was a good taper on the new guides, and I will still clean up the boss area, just a bit.
I am not going extreme on this, just align boring and bump grinding.
I also radiused the sharp edge on the tight inner turn, ever so slightly.
Stone ground for blending shapes, it takes a long time and just smooths.
No flow bench here, just going on touch.
Be the air...
Whooosh
I know it is better than it was.


----------



## TheMajic86GTI (Aug 9, 2009)

Looks good!!! :thumbup:


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

Thanks Majic!
There is still some detailing to do, not much.
Today I finished blasting the intake manifold, prepping for primer.
I am using a high temp engine enamel, it requires good prep and a specific primer.
I have done the same to all the alternator brackets, and any ferrous accessory on the block.
The manifold was the only aluminum that will be painted.
















The valve cover has a nice coating inside still, so I was careful not to disturb it.
Care was taken especially when sandblasting time came, I covered the insides and plugged the ports.









The crankshaft had been tanked in the hot bath, and the galleys thoroughly cleaned.
After pressure washing, it was carefully dried and put on a lathe to ensure balance.
The journals were slightly polished with 800 wet dry paper.









The new connecting rod bolts are in, pistons have been cleaned and polished.
There is still so much to do. The piston rings have to be gapped, installed.
Most of the build is ahead of me.


----------



## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

Wonderful life moments have directed my attention away from this project for a little while!
I am back on track, repairing and restoring as I go. 
I need a visit to the Care Facility for the Easily Amused.

The pistons and connecting rods are one again; detailed, restored.
Their new JH specific stretch bolts pressed in, they are not reusable.
They have been assembled in the exact sequence they came apart. Assembly lube.
The C clips were tricky; they went shooting off to space more than once.









I tightened up the fuel lines, taped off the shiny serial plates, plugged holes and sealed the boot.
Glass bead and a careful hand cleaned up the fuel distributor from the GTI.
Sealing off every possible entry point had to be done thoroughly, any dust entry will end it.
Came out clean and sealed. I will not reuse these fuel lines, most are too corroded.








I decided to label each of the lines since both cars will be completely apart.
The Bentley isn't clear about where they go and I do not want to be guessing later.
The line marked 1 is coming from the fuel filter. The line marked 2 would likely be the return.
















The fuel lines coming off the very top of the distributor go to the injectors indicated.
















Gasoline resistant enamel primer seals off the iron fuel distributor from oxygen. No rust!
Since the fuel plunger is protected by the air sensor plate body, it stayed on, I taped around it.









And, of course, the Valve cover.
I figured since I am kinda strange and it is a Volkswagen, it could get a bit weird.









The lightening bolts and vortex swirls should add at least a couple of horsepower!


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

So I have been very patient, and things are coming together.
More hard parts being refreshed, mating surfaces carefully polished flat.
It really is a lot of work, but I continue to imagine the Vrooom of the motor coming to life.
That will be a truly magnificent moment.
Here is a couple of shots of something wonderful, the backcut valve operation.
Never seen a machine that does that before, it is a nice setup. Retro.









Once you get in closer, you can see how it works. The valve is simply held in a chuck of sorts.
The base of the machine moves to a preset spot that can be set to repeat the same exact cut.
Every valve comes out the same.
The yellow arrows are the spin rotation direction, the blue is the surfaces that come together.
















The end result is the ridge on the back of the valve is eliminated, allowing air through.
The pink dot represents the back cutting, and the blue the seat area. 2.4mm for the seat.








The sludge around the edges is a cutting compound for the valves to seat.
I just didn't clean it yet.
It gets closer every day.

Update:
Since the valves were sunk further in the seats, the shims needed to be thinner.
To keep the shims in mid range for replacement and maintenance, the ends of the valves had to be ground back very slightly, otherwise the shims would get too thin to obtain later.








Just a little bit...


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## vwturbofox (Jul 31, 2010)

I guess that is not the last of it. I still need exhaust parts!
I want to buy a 4-5" round stainless muffler, (2.5" in. & ex.) with slanted Ti burnt tip.








Just header, cat, pipe & muffler.
Use 2.25" pipe, weld and/or bend here.
What does a resonator do?

dont buy a ricer muffler. a resonator makes the system little less raspy/loud
i would use a header cat no resonator and a good muffler like magnaflow,flowmaster,borla please dont use a ricer muffler sound like crap


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

Big day. 
I have cleaned and polished the coolant flanges, they are very corroded.
The insides are fine, but the area where the hoses are clamped on are massively pitted.
The worst flange was the one that had most of the engine grounds hooked to it.
There is a good possibility I will use another flange.

The new piston rings were gapped at .015" (compression) and .018" for the oil scraper.
The compression rings should gap between .012" and .018 inches, (0.30-0.45mm).
The oil scraper rings should gap between .010" and .016 inches, (0.25-0.40mm).
So the oil scraper is .002" oversize on the gap. It is not so terrible.
The maximum wear gap is .039", (1mm). It has a long enough life ahead.
I just happened to have a standard feeler set handy.
I used it instead of digging for a metric set.









The two crankshaft seal mounting plates were almost forgotten, but were discovered again.
These were so oily and mud caked they took a long time to clean.
Lots of preparation allow these parts to live again.
A flat granite top with 600 wet dry and wd40 leaves a dead flat surface to mate to the block.
The block itself had to be taped off for paint. The mounting plates were retaped after glass bead.
The new freeze plugs had been installed previously with aircraft engine sealant.
























I left the old seals in the two flanges as a mask. I will pull them out and use new seals.
The paint is cured by double radiant quartz heaters. Too cold otherwise!

There was an amazing surprise when I got back with everything for painting today.
One of the last pieces of the puzzle, and something I have been drooling over for months.
















So looking at it it is too short to tune for the 5th cycle, but it is light, and will work great.
I love the spring joint, nice touch. I had casually mentioned to these guys I may need a flange.
It looks like they included an adapter plate I can weld tube to! Nice guys.
I got the high flow cat, too. You can see right through it! 
Honeycomb clean yeah yeah yeah... Its not dirty no no no...
















I have a really good question; where do I put the lambda O2 sensor?
In the header port closest to the cylinder head, or the pipe merge spot?
Or, does it go in the catalytic converter?
Advice welcome!


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

vwturbofox said:


> A resonator makes the system little less raspy/loud. I would use a header cat no resonator and a good muffler like magnaflow, flowmaster, borla please dont use the can muffler,they sound like crap!


It fits the Cabby. (sort of) It is universal.
I agree a Borla would be champ, but I priced it out, it's like 300-400 bucks!
This one is only 35 bucks, and will make me legal.
The silencer is adjustable, I may weld it when it sounds right, that could eliminate any rattle.
It cannot be worse than before, I had rust holes all through the exhaust, THAT was loud!


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## vwturbofox (Jul 31, 2010)

ok i am just saying they dont look good on vws to me just my opinion.


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## chezzestix (Nov 15, 2009)

lol your friend is offended by the word ricer? *rolls eyes* I get called a krauter or kraut burner all day long.

Anyhow, no fart can please its a cardinal rule of dubdom. No tip .5" (.25" dual) larger than your pipes. Now mufflers don't sound terrible but they do need further work to sound sexy. However they are a quick way to get quieter. Build your exhaust and don't settle on a fart can. I had a 2.5" resonator welded back into my dual Borla on my MKV for under 300$ at my local muffler shop. Shop around at your local muffler places for a good glasspack and by the time this thing is roadworthy you should be able to afford it.

I've driven my MKV open headers once and had my exaust fall off my catless testpipe once. Both those occasions were LOUD.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

OK compatibility issue. 2.5" is too big, I understand that. 
I just figured once gases left the cat, it didn't matter and bigger was better.
I was hoping for some advice on this. I still haven't ordered the muffler.
I just wasn't sure it was a good idea. Trust your instincts.
This project is approaching a fast track, after the paint fully cures, it will go together quick.
I have to get a few bolts, they sell them nearby.
I really do appreciate the advice, thanks!


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## vwturbofox (Jul 31, 2010)

i would go 2 1/4 thats what my 8v was till i boosted know i have 3 ich:laugh:
2 1/2 would be good only if you have plans of turbo later otherwise 2 1/4 is good


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## chezzestix (Nov 15, 2009)

Match the header collector/outlet of your highflow for pipe size and add .25" for tips if you even really need 'em but honestly KISS. You're right in that after the cat pipe size isn't TERRIBLY important but backpressure and exhaust velocity and blah bleh blah i don't want this to turn into a backpressure is a myth thread... its just easiest to match the outlet of your cat or catless solution.

IMHO:
Have the people doing your exhaust put in a 60-80$ magnaflow muffler somewhere inline to the exhaust (prolly where the old one went). In and out pipes the same size as the rest. If it is too aggressive then later on have them put a 50$ magnaflow resonator somewhere inline again matching pipe sizes. No tips just let the pipe stick out where it always has. Tipless is very MK1 chic right behind downturn if you have the bumper for it.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

The yellow lighting in here is the quartz heater. It kind of makes it look rusty. Just an illusion.
The real block identifier is just below cylinder 3, at the top right.
This one had been rusted off mostly, but you can kind of make out JH and 449.








For the first time I have been able to see the numbers stamped on the lower block.








The ID numbers for the metal housings of the crankshaft seals may come in handy.









I can't believe it, but I found amazing tensile metric yellow zinc treated bolts right here in town. 
I will use those for the throttle body and manifold small parts mounting.
The block color turned out well, now I have to wait 36 hours and the paint will be fully cured.
Then it all goes together.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

So the paint will be cured by the time I wake up.
I removed the masking to see how it turned out.
I love it! Metallic blue ice. Looks good with the black.
Lots of curves at the edges, I am happy with the way they turned out.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

So I got back today and the snow had melted a little.
If I didn't know better, I would say the car is excited about the imminent transplant!


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

The crankshaft, main caps and bolts all went through the parts washer after the hot tank.
The idea is no contamination from the old sludge will work its way back into this engine.
There has been a heated debate about bearings, mainly the #3 thrust bearings, on this site.
Tempers flare, opinions differ, and there seems to be a great divide on the matter.
I had ordered KS Kolbenschmidt bearings, (2 piece #3), thrust bearings integrated with the main.
At the time I ordered, I had no idea what to get, and the 6 piece #3 was nowhere to be found.
Even the Bentley depicts a 2 piece #3. There is good reason to go 6 piece, if you can find them.
These bearings do have anti rotation tabs in them, and the machinist helping me assures me if the clearances are checked, and everything is done to specification, it will most likely be fine.
I have seen this guy perform miracles on vehicles, and I trust his knowledge.
I went ahead with what I have, and will accept the outcome of my decision.








Plasti-gauge was used to ensure clearances between the main bearings to crankshaft.
.0012" to .003" was recommended, I ended up with .002", consistent on all journals.
It is unfortunate the photo came out too shiny to see exactly what is going on.








The bolts were carefully torqued down to spec (48ft.lbs) after liberal amounts of assembly lube.
















The axial play was carefully checked over, and is right in the middle of the tolerances.
This is the actual reading, from the zero, of the play. Right where it should be.








The crankshaft spins so nicely, it feels really good, turning by hand.
The intermediate shaft is in, feels good and tight but spins nicely.
Next the pistons must be lowered in, and rod bearings checked for clearances.
















The crankshaft journal and rod bearings were Plasti-gauged, again .002" at 22ft.lbs.
Consistent on all four, once again.
Once the clearances were all found to be within specification, an extra step was required.
On JH engines, to properly stretch the bolts, an extra 90 degrees is required beyond 22ft.lbs.
So after the torque wrench is tight at 22, a different wrench ensures exactly 1/4 turn more.








Then we end up with a nice rotating assembly.








The new seals were pressed into the metal housings.
The seals in between the housings and the block were coated in RTV sensor safe silicone. 








I had not labeled all of the bolts and nuts, so I was picking through boxes trying to find them.
The convertible engine helped to identify what went where.
Oil pump was checked with feeler gauges in between gears, and was on the light end of wear.
A straight edge was placed across the pump body and only .0015" would barely fit between the oil pump housing and the two gears. The cap the gears rotate on was sluiced down for support.
The windage tray goes on first, then clip the slosh guard to the pickup tube and bolt on pump.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

So the Rabbit Convertible has come in from the cold for a teardown.
I had to label everything to make sure it would all go back together without problems.
There is a lot of information missing from the Bentley when it comes to JH motors.
There are some differences in the two vehicles. This car is leaking oil bad.
There was some oil in the manifold vacuum lines, some electrical loose, some cracks.
A lot of this would be difficult to find without tearing the car apart. Some were way in back.
I will spare you the bulk of the pictures of the teardown, and just offer a few.
It did not take long to discover the major issue I had with my idle. 
Under one of the hoses, I discovered a major vacuum leak. Manifold to idle boost.
When I first found it, it was a tear, but just disturbing it slightly made it break off.









This engine is also in very good shape for its age and condition, preserved beneath the oil.
Not sure, but that cam looks a bit bigger than the one that came out of the GTI.








The cylinder walls once again have no discernible ridges.
Instead of honing I could bore this one out to 83 so I can use JE pistons.
Then again, if it is within tolerance, why not keep using what is already very good?








I have got to say, does it really have to be this complicated?
That is a lot of lines. Electrical, vacuum, cables, fuel, brake lines. A little ridiculous.
Embrace the chaos, love the grease.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

So it was -6 here today, so it was a great time to powerwash the empty engine bay.
Electrical was taped off in garbage bags, fuel lines safe.
It sure was worth it! No grease cakes to frustrate a person, and now I can recognize shift parts.
If the new flywheel comes tomorrow I may get the short block and tranny in!








Speaking of tranny the Rabbit Convertible had a wrecker transmission, code FN!
That is a normal or "tall" gear transmission.
Spent most of the day repairing the shifter and replacing bushings. I will have no more slop!








The yellow arrows indicate the new bushings installed in this region.
The pink arrow points to the new relay lever, the old one had TONS of play in it.
The blue arrows point to bolts that were so loose, I took them off by hand, no tools.








No wonder the shifting was so sloppy. Every single link was loose.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

MK1 A1 TRANSMISSION SWAP/REBUILD INFO:

~ Initial versions were 4 speeds, 5 speeds introduced in 1978.
~ Available in "normal" gearing, tall (better gas mileage), economy, close ratio GTI (better acceleration). 
~ The close ratio trannies were found in the GTI/GLI models, but also the Wolfsburg models. Be aware of the "Self Machining" problem with these trannies. VW used rivets instead of bolts in the final drive which loosen after a while and cause expensive repairs.
~ Early GTI trannies have lower gearing which increases low end but looses a bit at top speed.
(Note, higher ratio 5th gears are available).
~ A1 cars used 90 mm output CV flanges.
~ Starting 1984 1/2 Sciroccos and 1985 GTIs, all Cabrios and all 16V Sciroccos, 100mm output CV flanges are used. 
~ The 100mm CV flanges may interfere (and lock up) with the steering knuckles of older A1 90mm cars. In some cases, the excess material can be ground away. Another solution is to replace the output flanges of the transmission to use the larger diameters. A third option is to use 100 mm inner CV joints and use it with the original 90mm axle. However, heed the following comment from Daley: 

* It is often said that all that is necessary to upgrade 100mm CVs to the earlier cars, is to swap the inner CVs to 100mm while using the 90mm axles (with 90mm outers).
THIS IS NOT TRUE!

The transmission in the Rabbit Convertible is code FN.
FN code transmission: 8/81 - 7/83 Uses white speedometer gear
020 Not close ratio. Gear 1 (3.46) 2 (1.94) 3 (1.29) 4 (0.91) 5 (0.71) Final Drive: 3.89
Mph 5th gear @ 6500 rpm:159 ~Hub diameter:90mm ~Clutch diameter:190 or 200mm

The transmission from the GTI is code FK.
FK code transmission: ?
020 Close ratio. Gear 1 (3.45) 2 (2.12) 3 (1.44) 4 (1.13) 5 (0.91) Final Drive: 3.89
Mph 5th gear @ 6500 rpm:124 ~Hub diameter:90mm ~Clutch diameter:200mm

http://www.mk1vw.info/
http://www.cabby-info.com/
http://www.brokevw.com/

I cannot remember what size clutch I bought. I will measure it soon.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

So the head still needs a bit of tweaking before it can be called complete. 
the bowl area needs to be cleaned up, it will be done soon enough. 
I consider myself very fortunate to have someone as skilled as this machinist assisting me. 
It is very unlikely I would have attempted this major project without his help. 
The head work from here on is all his efforts, and I am impressed. 
There was an amazing surprise today, something I was hoping would happen. 
This GTI head has been blessed with a 5 angle valve job. 
The valve seats have been de-shrouded, and the valves sit so perfectly in them. 








The surface of the head that meets the block is very true, but it may still be skimmed. 
The flywheel and clutch are tomorrow, and the short block and transaxle will go in as well. 
eace:


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

The housing is all together with the new water pump, and 82 degree Wahler thermostat. 
The one that came out of the car was 80 degree, but some are 87. 
There is a burp hole with a floating plug already in this one, no need to drill one. 

















The transmission had been cleaned up, (thanks!) and bushings installed. 








The rusty green end cap had to be pulled off to access some parts to be replaced. 
Throwout (release) bearing (yellow arrow), push rod go in at this end. 
The selector lever seal (blue arrow) was also new. 
I took the time to sandblast the selector lever while I had it all apart. 
The push rod seal is in the bell housing side towards the clutch, that was replaced. 








Here the yellow areas are new bushings, and the blue arrow is the new shift link.


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## Glegor (Mar 31, 2008)

B4S said:


> K.I.S.S.
> 
> The main killer of projects is someone who thinks too much while trying to re-invent the wheel. Attempting to convert a TPS into two separate throttle switches is a pointless endeavor, considering you can get the TB you need from about 10 million Rabbits/Golfs/Jettas/Cabbies/Foxes/Audis/etc.
> 
> *The diagram above is for CIS-basic, no ECU.*


 see part #18 (control unit) 









great build thread BTW!


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

Thanks Glegor!
So I had originally posted the wrong diagram, (cis basic) and after B4S had pointed it out, I changed the diagram to the one that would be used in this project.
I wish B4S would have edited the comment, to avoid confusion. I will note that on the diagram.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

No more worn out motor mounts! Say goodbye to the ugly...








So the motor mounts have been installed in the motor mount brackets.
The transmission side mount may be the early rabbit one. 
Its bolt hole sits the same as the OEM mount, and fits the bracket of the car frame tightly.
It was press fit into the motor mount bracket, same size.
The difference is the two little rubber tabs that suggest it is the early mount.
This mount off the convertible is intact, I could use it if this one is wrong.

The engine side mount was perfect, went in perfectly and the red bushing fits tight.
Even with a press, it is not so easy, the pressing rings had to be a slightly smaller diameter.
Metal had to be stacked up in order to make it happen. It has to line up perfectly.
Not easy under pressure.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

Grounds were often green with corrosion, broken, and the rings greasy.
Also, there were many electrical plugs broken and jiggling around in the car.
I took the time to rewire any broken or corroded contacts, there are lots.
The major ones that power the cold start, WUR, aux air, frequency, and thermo time; replaced.








Before crimping the new plugs on, put all the shrink tube loose on the wires, then connect.
I used simple butt crimp connectors, soldered the joints, then heated the shrink tube.
The backdrop was for clarity, to remove the engine bay backdrop.








Ignition coil is new and lives in its new home, tucked up at the rear of the engine bay.
The ignition coil strap was caked in rust, so it was shot and painted. 
Ground straps are upgraded to 5 gauge, with ends crimped, soldered and shrink tubed.
Big upgrade over the old flat strap.
The yellow arrow points to the new installed throttle cable. Blue points to new engine ground.










Alternator al27x is meant for a newer car, but I thought it would fit.
Its shaft is not as long as the one that was in the car. That means the pulleys will not line up.
The thick spacer and the pulley with pink dots slide over the long shaft to make up the length.
The yellow arrow points out the old spacer, super thick and solid, heavy. 









M type alternators (came with the car) have different plugs, and have to be upgraded.
The wiring is a simple fix, just use bigger cable with ring ends.
Luckily there was an old Jetta here with the correct pulley, it has a deep hole where the old shaft would be, and the short shaft of the new 90 amp bolts right on, and ends up lined up.
There are a couple of spacers there for alignment.
The nut bolts on the shaft where the blue line indicates, deep at the bottom of the cup.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

Fuel distributor has come off the air mass meter, the plunger is in great shape.
Three bolts on the top of the unit held it in place.
The banjo bolts are intact, shiny bright threads, and the tops are nice and colorful.








This roller in the large open hole is what the plunger rides on when the sensor plate rises.
The recess around the hole is for the o-ring to seal between the distributor and air mass meter.








The little blue line represents a pin (hard to see) that rests on the stop arm the spring clip holds.
The spring clip, indicated by the yellow arrow, can be adjusted to keep the sensor plate.
The sensor plate is the large flat circle in the middle of the bowl.
It needs to sit exactly in the center of the bowl, right in the middle of the narrowest spot.
This one has been adjusted perfectly. The pink dot is the counterbalance.
It has a screw on the end to adjust it in or out to balance perfectly under pressure.









Here the blue arrow points to the opening for adjusting the fuel distributor.
This is the usually plugged hole where the tool comes through to make adjustments.
The tool moves the screw in the mechanism the yellow arrow points to.
It will allow the sensor plate to raise higher, or regulate how far it can rise up.
Higher=more fuel allowed through.









Between the black plastic trim and the aluminum body of the air mass sensor is the old gasket.
Here they are apart and cleaned up thoroughly.








Cleaned, all of the little bits of grease and sand no longer make the plate scrape by the bowl.
It was hard to raise even before I blasted it, stuff gets past the filter, or past the gasket.
It is so silky smooth and the action is without resistance now.


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## MacGruber (Aug 20, 2010)

Did you happen to snap pics of separating the downpipe from the exhaust manifold? Even in official manuals with VW tools, no easy way I know of. I would rather block sand the installed manifold with the head removed then mess with the spring clamps.
I bought a new special steel ring to seal that connection and almost took it apart to fix an exhaust leak, but just in time checked out the motor mounts. A bad mount caused the engine to rotate enough for an exhaust leak at the downpipe. [Gagging icon]


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

MacGruber said:


> Did you happen to snap pics of separating the downpipe from the exhaust manifold? Even in official manuals with VW tools, no easy way I know of.


No pictures on that part, too busy figuring out how to remove those [email protected]#&%$! spring clamps!
It was not too bad, but then again I was not worried about putting the spring clamp back on.
I just used my trusty prybar, it has a wedge flared up turn end, with just the right leverage.
Tried lots of other bars before I tried the Japanese made carpentry tool.
I came across a great tool somewhere the day after they came off.
Ratcheting spreader tool in the vise grip family. Super easy with that tool, especially install!


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

The chaos is becoming manageable now that many of the parts are built on.
All of the plastic airbox parts got a good soap and water bath, filthy buggers.
The silicone seal for the air mass meter is soft, it will have to be silicone slathered.
If it does not seal properly, the only concern is dirty air bypassing the filter.
That was the cause of the air mass sensor stiffness.








The clutch is going in, many thanks once again for help! 210mm clutch and flywheel, new bolts.
Pistons 1 and 4 are TDC with the flywheel notch 0 at the top, bolted on.
The centering tool for the driven plate is silly; it had a bit of play, it got centered anyway. 








A great write up has already been done! Find it here.
http://www.vintagewatercooleds.com/tech/Techtips/Timbotechnotes/clutch/clutch.htm

Engine and transaxle meet again, and were later bolted up tight.
The back up switch/upshift plug was switched out to the original my wiring harness used.
The pins were different, and I wanted to make sure it would work in my car.








The engine mount and inner belt guard are installed, as well as the alternator mount.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

When we got to this point, the old starter was cleaned and installed.
A special harness was hooked up to a battery and switch, and the starter engaged.
The idea was to ensure there were no strange noises or behavior by engaging the flywheel.
Pistons were pumping! Everything is going to be good!
Would have been a lot worse to build the entire car and discover a problem then.








The cam has revealed itself, and it is looking good. The two cams were different.
The cam from the GTI won length of lobe, and will be used.
Euro GTI (G grind)? US spec GTI? Scirocco DZX? I do not know for sure.
I sure hope so, anyway. I am happy either way. More power or better emissions, OK by me.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

So the windshield was pushed out and revealed a big mess, not as bad as I was expecting.
The inset top right is a closeup of the Loonie sized rust spot directly above my leak. 








After a while with the wire wheel, the rust spot proved to be pretty aggressive.
It had eaten through the metal, and flaked off to reveal two holes.








They were cleaned up, welded shut, ground out, and treated.
















POR (paint over rust) is a treatment suited for exactly this scenario.
They even sell a putty like bondo, but will prevent rust from continuing its journey.
I will sand this channel and treat it with the POR, or alternately JB weld.








After the initial sanding, there were little spots that needed filling.








Next remove the wiper arms and drop the wiper motor inside, remove the seals, sand.
The hood and sides were taped off, and the area was coated in primer.








There were a few small imperfections to fill and re prime. Lots of curing time.
A few coats had to be applied to build a finish. Paint fumes indoors in winter is not fun.








After lots of attention and patience I can install the windshield and get it watertight.
I also bought a new windshield seal to get rid of the "chrome trim".
New glass (mint used, not a scratch on it) $20 from an old junker rotting away.
I had looked at 14 other VW cars for an in tact windshield, all the glass had chips or cracks.

I have been addressing the wiring under the dash and have removed LOTS of stupid stuff.
The previous owners had really gone crazy with little "improvements".
There are led's in the vents, disco neon, led backup lights, etc..
Here is just a sample of some of the stupid ideas people have that should never happen.








I have taken the time to install a 6 ATC fuse block to power some of my fun stuff.
Large wire runs through 2 proper sealed grommets in the metal and firewall, to the battery.
The large yellow wire is the constant 12v feed from the battery.
The green wires spread out from the yellow to power different light switches.
One of the wires supplies constant power to the stereo for clock and music memory settings.








Before installing, I put a rubber gasket in between the fuse block and the metal.
There is a snap on waterproof cover for the fuse block, and will all be shrouded by a coverplate.
Since this fuse block is supplied by a constant power, it could drain the battery if left on.
The deck is designed to require a constant and a switched 12v, no issue there.
It would take a really long time to drain from that.
However, the switches are all lighted, making it harder to forget. 
There are even original tabs under the dash to hold the wire out of the way of the pedals.
All crimped, soldered and shrink tubed. Isolated from one another.
The best way to send the big wire through the firewall is properly.
I took this one off the GTI wiring harness, made a small dent, drilled a hole to pilot a hole saw.


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## Mr.loops (May 27, 2010)

Well done!


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

The head has been reconditioned, all modifications complete.
Lots of fine sludge must be washed away, including the inner channels.
There was a frost plug on the side by the tensioner bolt, 24mm.
This was removed, and the entire head cleansed, dried. New plug installed with aircraft sealer.
The valvetrain has been installed with the new stem seals, after springs were checked.
Lifters and shims in, only 3 shims needed to be replaced to be within spec.
The insides of this GTI are cherry compared to the high mileage Convertible engine.









There is a good write up on adjusting valve lash here...
http://www.driversfound.com/scirocco/techtips/engine/valveadjustment/









The pistons were all turned to the middle, to ensure valves and pistons do not collide.
Notice on the head the lifters of 1 and 4 are mostly up, valves seated. 
Next step was to torque the head bolts down.
This was done in 4 stages, first (in sequence) to one torque setting, then the next.
Then they required one half turn past that, breaker bar, done in (two) one quarter increments.









The next logical step was to tackle the timing.
This proved to be quite a challenge.
The dot on the intermediate sprocket is visible in the crank pulley notch.
Hold that while checking the dimple on cam side of the cam sprocket is level with the top plate.
After tensioning the roller, you can manually turn the crank for a few loops of the belt.
It should line up time and time again if you got it right, if not start again.









WARNING! DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS YOURSELF! I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR ACTIONS!
That little blue arrow above points to the crankshaft bolt that must be torqued to 148 ft/lbs!
So how do you torque down a bolt to something that spins?
The thick nylon strap broke as it tensioned the crankshaft sprocket for torquing.
What now? You could get a steel bar and drill 5 holes in it then bolt it on with throwout bolts.
Or, you could get some nylon rope, feed it down the spark plug hole so it lines the cylinder walls, make triple sure no other valves will possibly hit a piston, and torque away.
Leave enough hanging out so you do not lose it inside.

After a pause,  the oil controller goes in, the injector cups installed with Locktite.








Now the fun stuff. Intake manifold and header time. New studs and locking copper nuts.
Stainless steel for the intake manifold. 








There needed to be a solution for header to block support, and the solution is tacked in place.
The two bolts to the block were in the same condition, originally. The left one was cleaned.
Those were originally the bolts for the front motor mount of the GTI!








This was a very good solution, very strong. One of the block bolt holes needed to be tapped.
It was welded up and trimmed, awaiting a sandblast, prime and paint. Knorrigend!

This front motor mount was an extremely tight fit, even with the super grease supplied.
It ended up needing to be pressed in, not easy with no good surface to push on.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

The engine is in the car! January 1, 2011! It is going to be a great year...








The car had been jacked up, and the engine slid underneath.
The chain used to hoist was previously balanced to the engine and block, helps to plan ahead.
Now the hoist is reattached to the installed chain, and the engine is pulled up into place.
As the engine raises, the CV joints had to be moved around the header, with a twist of the chain.
The rear transmission mount required the mounting bracket of the car to be unbolted.
Made the job a lot easier.
The new oxygen sensor (blue arrow) was carefully installed, it already had Never Seize on the threads.
Never get that on the sensor or it will not operate.
The yellow arrow is the electrical spade terminal for the sensor. Green wire going to ECU. 








The new auxiliary air valve is ready, as well as the refreshed pipes and battery clamp.


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## MacGruber (Aug 20, 2010)

Timing belt installing: must lock down the crank from rotating or go crazy.
Intermediate shaft mark doesn't have to be lined up, but after distributor installed is then a good general check. I have heard of people forgetting that crank rotates twice the rate of distributor, not checking the front pulley marks and installing the distributor exactly 360 degrees off.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

B4S said:


> K.I.S.S.The main killer of projects is someone who thinks too much while trying to re-invent the wheel. Attempting to convert a TPS into two separate throttle switches is a pointless endeavor, considering you can get the TB you need from about 10 million Rabbits/Golfs/Jettas/Cabbies/Foxes/Audis/etc.


 This throttle body was one of very few I saw on my lengthy searches that had the correct pull. 
I did not want to re-use my trigger due to it being very worn out. 
Many use a swing bracket to correctly pull the TB valves open. 
Many I came across Pulled the other way due to the arrangement of the engine bay. 
Nice throttle bodies are not readily available in my area. An Ebay search provided little. 
Little except the one I obtained. I needed help to make it happen. 
I was very fortunate to have someone understand where I was going with it. 
A can do attitude and some skills make things work, ending up with a very nice result. 
Since the trigger pin was missing, one had to be made. UHMW is a good material for that. 
So some was taken off the bar, and turned on a lathe, then drilled for a bolt. 








The end result is wonderful. It was hooked up to a test light to fine tune the trigger at WOT. 
The o ring had to be replaced, it was hard and crushed. Viton seals. High temperature. 
The side was drilled and tapped, the bracket installed, and the height adjusted. 
The pin arm on this one is higher than the original. Notice the AFR screw is shorter, too. 








I used the stubby bolt with the notch (came with the BBTB) and put a new o ring on. 








Open wide...


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

Here is a shot underneath the car as I was going in to mount the header brace. 
The wires with the ring loops on the end are grounds for the Lambda. 
They were originally mounted to the cold start valve bolt, but I decided to mount them to an accessory bolt hole at the back of the block. 
I figured they would have a better engine ground there, it sticks far out enough to cool off. 
The female terminal is accesible from the engine bay for probing. 








The driver side inner CV joint boot had been ruptured, flinging grease everywhere. 
I dug out the snow, found the GTI, and got a good boot. The c clip was hard to remove. 
Since the boot had ruptured, there was sand and grit in the grease. It was serviced. 
Removed, cleaned, inspected and miraculously in great condition! Fresh grease, new boot. 
The header brace turned out great, and performs its function very well. 
The curve in it gives clearance for the CV joint and boot, and allows a ratchet access to the bolt. 








Soon I will hear the engine roar to life, I am eager to experience the changes that were made. 
I will play with the electrical to run the wires as neat as possible, keep them bundled.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

There have been some major issues along the way with this car, some caused by me.
Some issues were misinformation from the internet causing delays due to bad advice. 
I had to adjust the shift rod 18 times to have the gates lined up to get every gear.
I could have ripped the car to shreds with my bare hands I was so frustrated.
Like last night as I was replacing the cylinder head studs with shoulderless versions.
This was done so I could enjoy the peace of mind a rubber one piece valve cover gasket allows.
The very last stud was having trouble going in, so I chased the threads with a bolt.
Then the bolt dropped inside the engine. It was so late I was so tired I almost puked.
With no magnet that would fit down the tube, I left it for the night, not sure if it would be OK.
Images of the bolt chewing the crankshaft and rods to shreds haunted my dreams.
In the morning, I tried to fish it out of the oil pan with a wire, but I could not find it.
I thought I would have to tear the car apart for ONE BOLT! I was close to madness...
Then, I thought if I looked in the distributor opening I may be able to see it, and behold!
A magnet carefully fished it out. I thought for sure it was lost deep in the oil passages.

Well, the next thing I know I had rebuilt the fuel meter, and was ready to jump the fuel pump.
The stupid Bentley has no clear instructions for this process, it bounced around chapters.
I removed the power line from the alternator, and accidentally grounded it to the alt body.
Sparks were flying and I welded a spot there with it. Not sure if I wrecked the diodes.
It seems to be OK, I just grounded the power line. Worst case scenario I swap out the regulator.
My confidence was deflating, I had been feeling very sure of my abilities before yesterday.

Update: The alternator charges fine, current just grounded out through the housing to block.
So the jumper worked, and even though I could hear the pump working, no gas up front.
The old horrible fuel pump was encrusted in decay, I threw it away.
Turns out it was an aftermarket Airtex pump, installed long ago, only capable 0f 20 psi.








I know it was an Airtex pump because it had all of the same bits and pieces as this new kit.
There was the same threaded connector coming off the back of the old one on the car.
It even had that extra foam to make up the diameter of the pump to fit in the pump carrier.








The Bosch unit I bought and used is much more powerful, more pressure and higher flow rate.
The new pump went in, I had to change some of the fittings.
This area had been patched up like the Mexico US border.
Good and tight at the fittings, but the perimeter? Something's going to make it's way through.
I still have to secure the mount for the fuel pump to the car, but fuel now speeds to the front.
I bled the fuel system by removing the old injectors and placing the fuel lines into a jug.
I removed the fuel pump relay, and used an 8 gauge wire with spade ends to jump the pump.
With the fuel pump now operating, I lifted the airflow sensor plate with a magnet.
No matter how careful I was, fuel got everywhere. There should be no vapor lock this way.

The new injectors were tightened to the lines, and the new green Viton seals were slid on.
They had been soaking in gas for a while. The injectors were then put in the cups on the head.
What a horrible , almost impossible job it is getting the injectors with new seals in the cups.
The distributor rotor was lined up with the mark on the distributor body, and installed.
Spark plugs in, wires on, oil system had been primed by a hand drill with a bit on the oil pump.
The moment was here, it will fire or it will not, there is no more time, no more help, that's it.

IT ROARED TO LIFE!, and with no cat or exhaust on, the header was LOUD!
It sounded like some of the hot rods that roll out of here! In true VW style, 4 banger...
I have never experienced such an easy start from this car.
The thing that amazes me is I could move right away without bogging. WOW.
In the morning, the car will get further tuned to get the mix right and see how it drives then.
This car has not started for 6 months, almost exactly. A bicycle and a borrowed car helped tons.
I am sore, tired, greasy, smelly, cut, fumed, and the chemicals have left me raw.
But does it ever feel good.


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## vwturbofox (Jul 31, 2010)

so fresh and so clean:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

vwturbofox said:


> so fresh and so clean:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


Thanks! It really turned out to be a major project.
The best part will be taking it out into the crazy ass winter and get it filthy!
It has had an exhaust transplant, and still needs some work, it needs a glass pack.
I got the cheapest muffler I could find ($42) I will need to save for a quieter version.








I also need to figure out exhaust hangers, and get some Dynamat for noise.
Of course, there is a lot of vibration in the dash, it is old and flabby.
It is my next project, for the spring, a custom dash. I will use Bird's Eye Maple inlay.
I will shape the dash and stretch leather over it, like I saw them build for Ferrari on a show I saw.
Door panels, too. Erhaben sein über!


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## MacGruber (Aug 20, 2010)

Congratulations!
I thought removing those injectors with the rock hard o-rings was the hard part. I had to soak them in silicone spray and pry them out using a jam nut threaded onto the injector.

Just 6 months - I have a used head almost ready to install I bought in 2008.


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## Esevw (Dec 27, 2002)

Wow that is awesome bro, I definetly know how you feel after a project like that. Ive never done a full motor restoration, but I am in the process of doing so. Check out my build thread in my sig. I just got the head about done and now its the blocks turn.

I just basically read all 5 pages of your build and I gotta say you definetly did a super great job on this build.:thumbup::thumbup:

You should take some video of the motor running and post it up. That would be cool.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

Love your GTI, tear it down and build it up! The only way to ensure Zuverlässigkeit! 

I really wanted to take the time to thank those people who have helped me along the way.
The Bentley manual is great for stock, things change when you use different parts.
Your experience has proved invaluable, you know who you are. Thank you!

It has been a little frustrating working with an obsolete fuel system, parts hard to acquire.
Perseverance really pays off, I have pieced together the pieces I required.
Bad news; I really need to pay for a speeding ticket that was almost forgotten.
You have to pay all your outstanding tickets in B.C. before you can buy insurance.
Even more interesting, if you are caught going 40KM/h over the speed limit, they seize your car!
Brand new rules for a brand new world. Went into effect just as I was finishing the engine...

I will be posting some video soon, after I am insured, I promise.
I need to tweak the CIS with an exhaust gas analyzer and a fuel pressure gauge.
In order to do that, I will likely buy the CIS analyzer (fuel pressure) or build it.
Driving is required to go to the exhaust gas analyzer, far from here. Need insurance.
So my system is in need of tweaking, I had removed the idle screw for a new o ring.
Putting it back in, I have no idea where it sits for good idle, and with the O2 sensor compensating with the frequency valve, it is tricky. First, the throttle body must be set up.
There are set screws positioning the throttle valves properly on the top of the throttle body.
The cable then must be adjusted, then get the car hot enough to have the fan run twice.

After searching for a comprehensive process to set the fuel mixture CO, here it is, in a pinch.

http://merlyyn.com/tech/


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

It has been nice to take a break from this car project for a little while, life takes over.
There has been an alarming amount of snow, mixed with rain that makes for dangerous roads.
I have noticed a large change in this car; it may not be good for the winter anymore.
It seems with more power and close ratio transmission, it slips a lot, wants to spin out.
When the snow and ice are replaced with green grass once more, this car will be so much fun!
In the great rush to finish the car before the machinist left to seek his fortune, I missed a step.
Thankfully, he was back for a visit today and he brought his timing light. The car was timing out.
I fashioned a 27mm hex out of a chunk of Oak, and removed the timing bung on the bellhousing.
Power from the alternator, ground to the block, and an induction clamp around plug wire 1.
It turns out the distributor was out 15 degrees. Loosen the bolt, twist, check, tighten.
Now the engine not only starts right up, but stays running! Wooo Hooo!
I tightened the idle screw too much when I first put it in, I will have to drill an access hole.
There is just no room for my giant hands to reach it as it sits now. No gription.
(The raintray divider is in the way, I will plug the access hole with a rubber grommet after).
The warm up system works fabulously, thermo time function is great!
I think I am running a little rich, it will be dialed in soon.
The battery light still comes on during warm up, then turns off as the alternator charges it.
Electricity is still draining from the burnt wires under the dash, will address it soon.
When I install the new dash this spring I will have complete access to the wiring.
Everything else seems to work well, it will not be long before I can get it on the road. 
I know a special section of road I would like you all to witness this car devour.
Rickety sections of old rock faced roads hugging a precarious cliff that drops off 500 feet into the jagged depths of a lake so deep you may actually see the Loch Ness monster!
ic:


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## O.E.M (Feb 6, 2010)

i just read all 5 pages of your thread and now wish i had the place money and skillz to do this with my cabby good luck with the car very nice thread


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

Thanks! 
I hope this will be helpful when you decide the time is right to fix your Cabby!
This is proof that if a person is determined and decides to make a dream a reality you can.
Many times I was faced with a task with which I had no experience to guide me.
We can prepare by learning everything there is to know on the subject, and try to understand.
There is no education like getting your hands dirty. No book or online tutorial can equal.
Often the only way to comprehend what the book was trying to explain was by looking at parts.
It only made sense when I could actuate a lever and see the movement.
Pre-reading the book prepared me for the unexpected, potential problems averted.

As far as costs, if you are willing to shop around, you can really save a ton of cash.
I actually saved way over a thousand dollars compared to some of the pricing elsewhere. 

Used 1984 Rabbit Convertible.........................$ 50
Used 1983 Rabbit GTI....................................$500 value or work trade
Used windshield.............................................$ 20
New Windshield seal.......................................$ 32
Used Audi 5000? throttle body.........................$139
Remanufactured in Germany AL27X alternator..$ 99
Optima battery..............................................$152
Bosch distributor............................................$ 99
Bosch control pressure regulator/WUR.............$ 75
Bosch fuel pump............................................$166
Bosch cold start valve.....................................$162
Bosch fuel distributor metering valve................$ 49
Bosch spark plug wires....................................$ 37
Bosch spark plugs w7dc(German 10 pack)........$ 27
Bosch ignition coil...........................................$ 49
Bosch auxiliary air valve.................................$ 61
Bosch fuel injectors [email protected]$ 88
Viton fuel injector seals [email protected]$ 4
Injector cups [email protected] cents!................................$ 2
Valve guide [email protected]$ 8
Flywheel........................................................$140 
Sachs HD clutch kit.........................................$ 80
Clutch bits:Bolts, seals, bushings, bearings.......$ 70
Clutch push rod..............................................$ 20
Gear shift repair kit........................................$ 20
Shifter linkages..............................................$ 5
Polyurethane bushing kit.................................$ 70
Autotech Tri Y Header.....................................$299
Magnaflow Hi Flo catalytic converter.................$109
Exhaust joints [email protected]$ 64
Bosch oxygen Lambda sensor..........................$ 25
Exhaust pipe...................................................$ 15
Muffler...........................................................$ 42
52 stainless fasteners......................................$ 57
Complete engine gasket set.............................$ 42
KS Kolbenschmidt main bearings......................$ 42
KS Kolbenschmidt rod bearings........................$ 20
Intermediate shaft bearings.............................$ 20
Mahle piston ring set.......................................$ 20
VW cylinder head bolts....................................$ 28
Connecting rod bolts & nuts.............................$ 40
Freeze plugs...................................................$ 12
Throttle cable.................................................$ 25
Clutch cable...................................................$ 22
Bentley..........................................................$ 39
Timing belt tensioner & belt..............................$ 25
Windage Tray.................................................$ 49
Oil controller...................................................$ 5
Ignition switch.................................................$ 6
Assorted hoses................................................$100
Rubber 1 piece valve cover gasket....................$ 15
Bosch premium oil filter....................................$ 5
Bosch fuel filter................................................$ 11
Water temperature sensor................................$ 5
Various fluids...................................................$ 80

And much more, like hose clamps, nuts, studs, gaskets electrical & other incidentals that add up!
Speaking of electrical, wire alone must have been at least $200!
Excluding the vehicle costs, the parts amounted to around $3000! So far!
I believe that was what I paid as a down payment for a new car once, with $15,000 left to pay!
Totally worth it.


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## sarcastro (Jun 3, 2010)

are there a lot of vibrations with the poly engine mount?


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

sarcastro said:


> are there a lot of vibrations with the poly engine mount?


Just like everyone has been saying. There is definitely a lot of vibrations.
On the plus side, the engine does not rock, it is held tightly in place.
But... I just want to get the rubber diesel mount set with new EPMD cushions, ASAP.
This will be my very next purchase and install, to be followed by suspension a bit later.
I am seriously considering a Jom coilover, anyone used them? Opinions?
I will also find new control arms with rubber bushings, ball joint and tie rods. 
Some Dynamat needs to be installed in the firewall, to keep the header noise down.
I love the header! It really does make the car feel different.
The other priorities are a glass pack and better hangers for the exhaust.
These things really do make a big difference in ride comfort, especially with a rag top.
Now that I understand how the power is transmitted, that bit of flex and cushion really help.
Insurance is coming up within days, I will finally see how much enthusiasm this car has.
I still haven't had a chance to take it out yet, but any minute now...

I cannot stop thinking about design potential in the interior!
All I am certain of is the dash will also have rubber mounts, to eliminate vibration.
Door panels will not be very hard, just takes time, and careful measuring to get the 2 sides right.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

I tried so many times to get this video on here, I was having a USB I/O error.
Finally, here is a video of the car running. It had not been started in 5 days! Starts fast!









Here the car is seen idling just after the first video was shot.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

*Immense difficulty quantifying reaktion.*

Just arrived back after the very first drive in this car.:laugh::laugh:
There are only moments before I must go again.
Insured to maximum, it is time for wheels to the pavement.
The link http://merlyyn.com/tech/ for setting the air fuel idle had very good tune instructions.
The throttle body idle screw could not be turned, because the soft brass notch was gibbled.
I mangled it accidentally after the bit disengaged the notch. No wonder the idle wouldn't change.
The throttle body was removed, hoses and lines detached. A small operation of screw removal.
The long TB screw works just fine, and has a 7mm end sticking out. I used the new viton o ring.
Turns out the air fuel mix was out, I discovered the solenoid of the idle boost valve works.
Undulating. Weird. Then, you get it just right and everything settles down, runs nicely. Amazing.
It is a loud car, but it rips. I can drive, no- ...creep along with the close ratio transmission.
Real slow, it was amazing. The old power train (hah) would not work at low speed.
I was talking to a guy from Germany today, he said back in the 80's youngsters would save.
Save every penny in hopes to buy a GTI. All they wanted was a GTI to thrill the girls. 

So very different than the car what was.
Fourth gear now is like the old 3rd. Fifth gear in this car is too fast to stay on the road here!
And the roads are bone dry! 
The clutch is so very silky smooth. Pure grip. No slip. 
The motor mounts are proving to be very good. Settling in. They may just have to stay.
Much less vibration than before. I gotta go!

I have to go drive! C ya


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

Not even 500 Km and I did a new oil change, just hours ago. The rings must be seated by now.
Oil was already dirty, the new rings shaving the honing marks off the cylinder walls.
Transmission fluid was "unknown condition" so I changed that frothy stuff too.
What a brutal task! Trying to squeeze 80-90 into a horizontal hole behind the wheel?
Could they have just given us a nice easy filler spot! BTW, can you fill into the speedo hole?

Before the repairs, this much mileage would have used most of a tank of gas. 
I have barely used 1/8 of a tank!


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## Roc'N'Green (Apr 1, 2010)

I have been watching this on and off since you started. Around the time you started I was putting my freshly rebuilt JH into my 85 scirocco. I rushed it a bit and ended up cutting some corners. I absolutely love your attention to detail. It will make the car that much better down the road. I have had to put most of my weekends in the last 6 months into fixing the mistakes I made. My car is finally doing really great. 

Persistence and Patients are definitely the keys to building these cars. My 85 8v makes me smile every day I drive it. There is nothing quite like tearing up the streets every day in a car you re-built with your own two hands 

Once again I applaud you.


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## atlantico (May 25, 2010)

Nice job!


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## Esevw (Dec 27, 2002)

Definitely an Awsome job man, I am working on an 83 rabbit gti myself and I saw your build thread and its great. You did an awsome job. :thumbup: 

For the oil question- Yes you can fill the transmission through the speedo cable opening but you have to check the level through the side hole.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

Roc'N'Green said:


> My 85 8v makes me smile every day I drive it. There is nothing quite like tearing up the streets every day in a car you re-built with your own two hands
> 
> Once again I applaud you.
> 
> ...


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

And suddenly mysterious video emerges out of the fog... 
No one knew where it came from.


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## shwagenauto (Mar 22, 2011)

drum n bass also keeps me focused while driving my gti hard. i live in the mountain side sometimes i have close calls but its worth it


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

After driving this car daily for a while, A few issues have presented themselves.
My custom exhaust is just slightly tapping on the heat shield sometimes.
Right where it goes up and over the rear beam. Superbly annoying.
I should have more exhaust hangers, but the cat one was destroyed when it came out.
I never bothered to put one in there to replace it.
Everything on the car is going to have to get re-torqued and locktite. 
The plastic trim in the front of the car rattles.
The plastic shroud protecting the lower timing belt warped and is touching the belt.
It makes a very annoying noise.
The dash is rattling a lot, but sticky goo helped. At different RPM, different bits rattle.
I need to re-tighten the header and manifold bolts.

Worst of all, the transmission blew a drive seal, leaking (flinging). It was OK when I had it out.
If it ain't broke don't fix it. Well now it broke. I will go through a good inspection as well.

My suspension is horrible, old and threatens to throw me off the road.
I need new control arms, new ball joints, new rubber control arm bushings, tie rods.
I think I will go with Bilstein shocks, keep my ride height. The roads here are bad.
New strut mounts, and bushings. They will be coming soon.
However, I do need a bit of advice with what springs to use with Bilstein strut assemblies.
I do not wish to lower the car. Clearance is a big deal to me on these bad roads.

Other than that this car has brought a smile to my face over and over.
I had a couple of guys that didn't want to be passed by a Rabbit, and tried to race forward.
I passed them anyway. That feels so good.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

Still driving! Parts are slowly showing up for the suspension and steering.
Just got back from an epic month long journey drove 2500 Kms, went to 4 epic festivals.
The car held steady, I had recently installed a new radiator fan motor because the other was failing.
Lots more to come soon when the rest of the parts arrive...
Suspension rebuild!


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

So it has been a while...
So far just minor issues, a full brake rebuild front and back just happened.
Brand new calipers and rotors and pads on the front, already rusty from winter.
Brand new drums, cylinders, wheel bearings, spring kit and shoes for the back.
You would never know, looking at it.
Had a major problem recently. Heater core failure. What a mess!
Just installed a brand new one after draining out all fluids.
It was not so bad for this vehicle, just undid the four screws under the hood at the fan and the whole box drops down. With some careful wriggling, it will clear the pedal cluster and slide right out for replacement. I will not say it was easy, it took me SO LONG! The most frustrating thing so far.
Will have pics soon!
New oil cooler to replace the old one...
Just put in a new fuel filter. One one side, crystal clear gas and the other a foul mess.
I am so glad it was working.
New oil filter, new fluids and I will be on my way. Good time to recharge the K&N filter too.


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## miartecallarte (Apr 9, 2012)

*good job*

THanks for all the information and pic this helps a lot for my rebuild


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

Read all 5 pgs... must say great job saving an old vw:thumbup:


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## rabbitnothopper (Oct 19, 2009)

thanks for your thread
lots of good information and pictures

epic job on cleaning those parts and putting it all together

btw, it is easier to fill the transmission through the speedo-gear hole than through the side drain plug behind the wheel
just be careful not to drop anything into the hole there..

subscribed


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

So this car is still rolling strong, starts instantly, and has never let me down. I am going to treat this classic to some more surgery. There is a big install coming this weekend, and I will have pics to share as it happens! No Shambhala for me this weekend. I will have to go next year. I have a limited window to do the work, and I am taking this opportunity. 
Something that happened since last I posted was SMOKE inside the car while I was driving along. After a thorough inspection, I discovered my heater core was dripping onto some wires in the center console. 
So, since I do not have the new dash completed yet, I just moved the gauges up, and got rid of the center console, for now. I know it looks weird but it works and once the new dash is in this will be a good laugh for later. The "Before" picture. 








Here is the old heater core, removed from the car. Just 4 bolts under the hood and the rain tray by the blower motor. 
 
Got some new (old) seats too! 
 
From a toyota corolla. Needed some work to get those in! 
Funny thing; a local VW enthusiast wanted someone to take a 99 golf off their hands, to keep the parts for others who need them. It turns out it came with 4 snowflakes!!!!!!! In a funny turn of events, it was the same people who donated my GTI to that yard it was found!!!!! 
I am greatful. The girl who used to drive the GTI before it was junked fixes VW in Ottawa, check her out if you need help out there. 
http://vdubfixer.com/ 
They were so happy the heart of the GTI is living on, in this car, that now sports snowflakes. Perfect fitment. Exactly what was needed to fix the wobble, which is mostly gone now. 
















So much more coming tonight after berry picking up the mountains. Last trip up the rickety road before the NEW SUSPENSION!


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

*Suspension Rebuild*

eace:This car is reliable and has taken me to some very remote places a car like this should never see. As a result of all this banging around on dirt roads, the suspension is shot, everything rattles, and the polyurethane bushings just transmit every little pebble into the steering wheel, with a BANG! 








The proper rubber bushings are finally all here. Time to make this car feel good and tight. 








Here are some of the parts I need at the moment. I have been getting little bits and pieces for a while, saving them up. Now it all comes together! 








The control arms were pretty battered under the car, and the rubber bushings deteriorated. I decided to get some new control arms from Lemfoerder. The new bushings were pressed in, and the new Meyle ball joints were installed, so they are ready to go. The brackets that hold the bushings on to the control arms are new too. The camber bolts and control arm bolts still available from VW. 
























And so many little bits and pieces and I will still have to buy a rear sway bar with rubber bushings to install later when I do a proper exhaust. These pieces I already have are all going in, like the new oil pump, I can just feel sometimes it needs a new one. This one is a little upgrade from the other, needs longer bolts, and is German made. The tie rods are wobbly, but not for long. My master cylinder is having issues, too, so this is a good time to finish a complete rebuild. New shock mounts and higer durometer rubber bumpstops, and new dustboots. Everything needed to get this car working properly. The bodywork will be minimal, and painting this one is going to be fun. 
























And of course, the best for last. The heart of the matter. This is the choice I made, after a lot of reading, and checking out a lot of companies products, peoples testimonials. I am sure I will have an opinion on these in the not too distant future! 








eace:


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

Shock install weekend! Every time I work on this car there are always surprises, and the parts that should be correct are almost never correct, or there is a mixed bag of some things that work, or use some new and some old used, lots of figuring out. I wonder if it is that my car is German made, or it is a Canadian version of the Rabbit Convertible or that it is right at the moment of changeover to the next model? Maybe other people made half ass repairs along the way and used the wrong pieces? Whatever the case, it can be frustrating. Parts sellers always say it will work, because they want to sell parts to you. Oh well. Anything I obtained along the way that is for another model I will be selling soon, I have lots of obscure bits and pieces that are really hard to get now. I know you all want to see how it went, so here we go!

Every bolt was rusted, seized and required tons of penetrating lube and force. No idea how long these have been in here, but I have owned the car since 2007 and this is the first time I touched the shocks.








The car was jacked up and jack stands kept the car up in the air while work progressed.
The front shocks went on the new mounts and went in first.
















Here you can see the original control arm and sway bar bushing.








Starting with the front, the old shocks and control arms came out.
















While I had everything out, I installed the rubber mounts for the steering rack, and finally a new rubber transmission mount. Having the rear motor mount out really made it easy to install the steering rack mounts, and I needed to shift gears under the car to make room for tools, and put it back in the same spot it was when all was done. The tranny mount that came out had loose bolts.









The problem came when I got to the back. To start with, I had a major problem I was unaware of, and there was no going back.








Here you can see there were actually 5 breaks in the rear shock.








After the shock came out, the extent of the problem was revealed. Broken springs! Leaking, busted struts! Mangled, destroyed, not good for anything. No wonder the muffler was rattling on the frame.








That was not the only problem. There was no going back, and when I compared old with new, I was unsure whether they would even work!








I was frustrated, and decided to go for a swim at my favorite lake to calm down.








When I got back, I decided that I did the research, and after all I had been through with the shocks, they just had to fit. So I put them in. The mounts I bought had some pieces that fit, and I had to reuse the top mount shown here, thank god it was in good shape still.








The new coilovers did go in, they did fit, and I decided to max them out to try to get the most clearance under the car, but after riding back home, I will back them off, they are too tight.








I also need an alignment, really bad, and that will happen soon, I will leave that to a professional. I will tell you all about the quality of the ride after I get aligned, I already know it is WAY better than it ever has been, and I have not dialed it proper yet. Updates soon! New dash and interior is next...


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

*How to instructions for next steps*

http://www.driversfound.com/scirocco/techtips/engine/valveadjustment/

http://www.vintagewatercooleds.com/tech/Techtips/Timbotechnotes/headlight/Headlight.htm

And of course, the top is in a sad leaky state. Time to get that fixed. This place seems good to me.
Haartz canvas is just nicer, that is the plan!

http://www.mtmfg.com/vw/165/Volkswagen-Rabbit-Cabriolet-Convertible-Tops-1979-94


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

*Running funny; Maintenance time!*

For the first time ever this car let me down and did not instantly start. 

Just kept on turning over and over. Then it started, because this car really has soul.
But it just didn't drive right, it was boggy and was really hesitating.
MAINTENANCE TIME!
So what have we learned?
The first thing you have to do is tune up the engine, by making sure plugs, wires, cap and rotor are all functioning. Then check for air leaks. Then check fuel pressure and delivery, electrical is getting where it should when it should. Check grounds. Rewire if necessary.

So I just went over any possible point of entry for air. Right away I find the rubber vacuum lines are all cracked at the ends. Replace. Then the idle air screw o ring, and anything else that looks suspect. Remove the ground from the battery. Pop the top off the distributor, check inside.









The contact points were corroded and the rotor was half burnt off.

















So I fill up the coolant that was getting low in the reservoir, and then I realize it must be a fuel issue, and I never did replace the in tank fuel pump.
So in I go! Pop off the back seat cushion, and get into it.
The two hoses and electrical come out, it doesn't seem like it will go, but it does!
Using a hammer and a flat screwdriver in the notches of the brass circle, it turns counter clockwise and unscrews from the fuel tank about 1/4 turn.









On the other side of that is the fuel level sender, and an in tank fuel pump.
It just uses a flotation device on a pivot. I was surprised to find elecrtical wires exposed to fuel! I suppose no air, no boom!

































All the fine silt was getting past the in tank filter! Did you see how clogged that was?
The seal had broken , and there was a gap and some rubber bits missing.








You can see where a chunk came off the filter. The o-ring needed replacing, too, and I had one!








So luckily I just happened to have a new Pierburg pump and filter, got a bit of 5/16ths high pressure fuel injection hose (a little more pricy, but regular is only 10 psi and CIS is 100+ and yes, I know it only really gets pressurized after the bosch inline fuel pump, but there is a return hose going back in so maybe it needs it. Oh well, overkill is good.
















The rubber hose pictured on here had to be cut back almost an inch, it was too long and wasn't sitting right in the tank; I had to pull it all out again, use exactly the same length of hose that was on it before, and reinstall it.









It went back in, I used the new o-rings, sealed it all up, checked the fuel pump relay, some electrical, then put the ground back on the battery. She took a few seconds, but it ran again! BEaUTIFULLY! Off I went for a 140 KM journey, with the car running like it hasn't in a while. Next up; timing, idle/air fuel mix, lifter adjustment. That should get things tightened back up!:laugh:


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

*Half a million!*

Just rolled over 500,000 kilometers!


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

*fun in the snow*

Took my car out into the frozen snow without a belt cover was not the best idea ever
I will be the first one to admit this was ambitious but I know this car is a tank! 






The snow was several feet deep with 12 inches fresh snow on the road I was driving. 
It kept trying to suck me into the bank which would have stranded me out in the wilderness!


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

*Performance Exhaust*

The snow this last winter ripped my steel weld job muffler right to bits.
Little holes rusted through and created a raspy loudness that lost pressure and power.
It did not seem so long ago a chevy truck muffler was welded on last minute to get it on the road...


















Some new parts arrived just in time...
Cat back! Everything behind the catalytic converter all the way to the tailpipe...
Stainless this time. No more rust. .









And all the little bits and pieces a Rabbit just might need...
Like a resonator and clamps until it can be welded properly.































































Feels so good again, all the pressure is back, but welding this up is a must, it seems the clamps just wont keep it in the right spot.
Sounds like a dream.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

*Major Brake Overhaul*

Hello fellow Dubbers!
This car has had a major issue with braking. There is a spongy feel to it. There is brake moisture around the master cylinder and the brake booster.
And just the other day there were no brakes at all when I went to stop, just about plowed through 3 deer and a moose.
So it seems to me it is time to rebuild EVERYTHING.








New bearings and bits to make the job easier...









The last time the brakes were done there were grooves that had been worn into the metal on the stub axle.
I decided to get new stub axles to ensure the best possible ride.









A new master cylinder was needed; the one I got before was the wrong part and cannot be returned, I will have to sell it.
This is the correct unit for my vehicle.








The brake booster was a hard thing to find and was EXPENSIVE.
Ordered the wrong one and had to send it back.
This is the correct unit for my car.








I decided to paint this part so it doesn't become a rusty piece of crap.








While I'm at it I may as well paint the new drums too. High temp paint.








Even the e brake cables are destroyed. You need two for this car.









So time to get right to it. Remove the cap by wiggling it off with a large grip wrench. Remove the cotter pin.
Remove the cotter pin holder, the nut and the lock washer. Pull the drum off carefully, the bearings will try to fall out.
Then you are met with the brake fluid and grime mess.









The two springs on the middle of the shoes must be depressed then turned to remove shoe assembly.
Then wiggle them out of the bottom retainer that holds them in.
Be ever so careful to remove the bolts that hold the stub axle and take the assembly into the shop.
I made a 3 1/4" hole in a block of wood 1" deep to support the backer plate.








One good solid whack with a urethane mallet got it out.
Of course, I sandblasted and painted it before I removed the old stub axle.








Here is a shot of the backer plate with the stub axle removed.









Under the dash I removed the pin that held the pedal to the brake booster.
Then, working under the hood, I undid the battery posts (negative off first, on last).
I undid the coolant reservoir, then moved the air tube, disconnected a few brake lines.
Reaching in under the car to the bottom bolts of the brake booster was not fun.









So it has been easy so far... Except for one problem... Of grandiose monumentalness.
A bolt head has been sheared off and is stuck in the axle mounts.








I will not bang my head in frustration. I will logically proceed. Drills and an easy out. 








I will let you know how it all goes. Until that bolt comes out....


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

*Rear axle beam madness!*

Well I did my best...
I filed off the end of the sheared bolt flat.
Using a center punch, I created a dent right in the middle of the freshly filed surface.
Using a 1/8 inch HSS cobalt drill bit, I drilled in almost all the way through the other side.
Then, using a 7/32 HSS cobalt drill bit, I drilled halfway in.
Then I hammered in an easy out, and tried to remove the remaining bolt chunk.









No chance! These metals have become one with another.
I had to carefully continue to drill until I could safely tap the threaded hole, in hopes of saving something.
I got to a perfect diameter, just right.
Then i realized the store was 100 km away and I have no running vehicle.
So, I dug up an old tap and die set that had no clear markings because it was so dirty.
I found one that fit the threads of the new 10mm 1.5 thread pitch.
Problem was, it was actually a 3/8 tap. I found out after.
A German engineer friend came over with a proper 10mm tap set and I tried but the damage was done.









The new threads fit the bolt but had about 10% holding power.
My German engineer friend who came to see me had a very good idea how to fix the problem.
I could drill right through the 62mm tubing in behind the stub axle mounting plate of the axle.
A strange washer would have to be created to make it work.









Well, I just kept thinking about the tire flying off the car, and didn't want to lose the handling I have worked so hard for.
So I called every auto wrecker in the province to find the correct axle for this car.
Not a single one had one with a rear anti-roll (sway) bar with the factory mounts.
Found three with no sway bar.
I assumed the GTI the engine and transmission came from was in a different configuration, so many body parts were different on it.
Also, I had talked to the place the GTI is stored at days before, he was warning me of its imminent end.
He was organizing a crush for all the old cars stored in the field, and its day was due.
















The cars are being drained and stacked ready for the crusher to come and destroy it all!

When I got there to take a look and see if the GTI was around and if it had the correct rear axle, it was ALMOST too late.
The GTI was there, and it had the correct rear end with the sway bar and everything!
We cautiously removed the rear shocks and axle beam and carefully removed the bolts with an air impact gun.
The pivot bushings are in the same condition on both cars. On further inspection, they are still doing their job.
I am tempted to install the urethane bushings, but I am worried it will make more noise.








Everything came off without a hitch.

















And there it is. It is going to need a wire wheel and some undercoating.
The hard brake lines on everything are wrecked. I am going to install new.









A bit of sandblasting before paint...
The drum back plate all the springs and shoes will be attached to later.

















Undercoating after lots of wire wheel grinding and scraping and sanding...


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## Gh0sTly (Feb 18, 2012)

Love this build!!!


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

*Brake rebuild*

Hello again Rabbit fans








Time to take off the old axle and put in the new
Getting the odd bits of rust that's the next big project to come, and there are some very interesting things ahead!
This has been sitting in the computer since last year or more so here it comes...








Got the car up on jackstands, the work all done and ready for install!









A very awesome tool allows the brakelines to bend without compromising their integrity, especially with a tight radius.
At first I tried to custom build the lines from long lengths of brakeline but the tool just does not make a nice enough mushroom.
The proper tool is very expensive and really to me was just not worth it. So i found premade straight lines with ends and fittings built in.









Here you can see the nice job it does!









So I basically just copied the existing, and it was relatively easy to manipulate the bends, even by hand for easy curves.









Where the hard lines meet soft lines, there is a coupling spring that holds it in place, since the axle moves, this must be flexible brake lines.









With the new axle bolted in, (it wasn't so bad except its upside down and you have to push it up into place and get washers/nuts in quick ask a friend for help)
I was ready to install the new emergency brake cables too, because when you have access like this, you take care of whatever is problematic.
My e-brake hasn't worked in years.









Special tools help things along with old cars, and this was a good purchase.









In order to get access to get the axle on and be able to couple the brake lines, this ended up being the final connection, and requires 3 hands.









It also required a length of spacing to reach, and was a tough connection, but sits in a good spot where the coupling cannot get harmed by random debris.
I think this is yet another good engineering feature.









I used brass couplings because some of the bending and routing is so very hard without them. I tightened them with just a drop of brake fluid,
between the mushroom and the nut.









(So the brake booster I put in was not correct in some way, there were issues of an accordian like sound and it sprang apart and popped on the first few runs.
That left me going back again to return it and get the correct replacement part, a whopping $500.)
But back when I was in the middle of the rebuild, I thought I had a good one, and was continuing to put it all together...
Where were we? Ah yes...








The master cylinder carefully slides onto the brake booster, with o ring at back... 
Some of the routing had to be changed after this too...

See... The problem was the proportioning valves, these weird brass cylinders they use to make sure the hydraulics don't lock up the rear tires.
They actually get in the way of the master cylinder reservoir and prevent it from seating properly to the master cylinder o rings.









Funny little things them... They have these large o rings that make no sense to me around the outside of the barrel.








Anyway, we will get back to that later...

First, a new stub axle gets bolted onto the rebuilt axle, to accept new bearings and seals and drums and and and

















Then the slave cylinder gets installed... This is the weak link in the system. I would love to invent a better part here. Gah.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

*Brake rebuild part 2*

Now the drum brakes... This has to be the worst part of all, because it has to be done oftenish, and its hard. Finicky.
Springs snapping your fingers. Pinch points. 
I have to re use the metal bracket that keeps the drums apart, and get the little springs in order. None are easy.


















Not sure if you can see, but the screwdriver has a notch carved in the middle, and is a godsend in this process. 
The spring tool was incorrect, but helped once or twice.









Step at a time... Breathe... Have patience...









I assembled both to ensure they were completely the same opposite mirrored units.
There is no way to explain how hard this was for me to do. How do people do this for a living?
I would be fired in one day if this was my job.









Finally on the car. Nightmare over.









So with a flat board and a hammer carefully insert seal into drum.
Its not so bad! The worst part is over!









The rest makes sense when the new stub axle is used to understand how the bearings and seals work.








Place the cap, hammer it on somehow without denting it terribly... I will see if I can find photos of the cotter pin wrap... My hands were greasy

Okay, remember the proportioning valve? It fits the front of the reservoir nicely.









In the back I had to route it like this to keep the seal, the proportioning valve lifted the reservoir when installed directly on master cylinder.









Front brakes must be addressed as well, with new calipers going on with new rotors...
I have just a couple of pics of the old coming off... But it really helps to see how it is set up!









With the caliper removed, the bracket stays on the hub assembly.









An inside view... Caliper off. Bolt is there just to see bolt type.









Well, here's a little sneak peek at whats coming... I mean besides bodywork and paint. I got another one, for backup. Will tear down soon...
Stay tuned. I plan to have good video and torque specs and every detail documented. 9A close ratio 020 transmission too! 
And bodykit.... But that's later...


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

I just want to pause and reflect on all the ones that got left behind and got crushed
This red Jetta didn't make it.









And the little yellow Rabbit is with us no more


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

*Time to repair some electrical!*

Since I was last in here a lot has changed. This is the last big push to fully rebuild this car.
No more waiting for some random day in the future to fully overhaul this system and get the 
gremlins out once and for all. I put up with substandard electrical performance all this time..
No more. My front high beam will not work and the low beam is at half voltage. 
I have discovered why. There is a blue and white wire melted inside the main harness in the dash.
I now have the dash off and it's crazy in there. It's finally making sense! 

So happy About the purchases I made at Super Bright LED. So many pictures coming.
For now, how about an amazing place to buy connectors!!!!! Terminals!!!!!!
If anyone knows where to get these in Canada or the states please post the link... 

http://www.autosparks.co.uk/electrical-components/plugs-connectors/tab-spade-plugs.html


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

*Major electrical work*

So here we go!
It all started with a wire...








It had melted inside the wiring harness because of insufficient ground path... Just a theory.
Needless to say, this is just one of many electrical gremlins this car has had. 
Do not get them wet. Do not feed after midnight!!!

I got a fix it order from the R.C.M.P. for a headlight and a tail light being out.
Perhaps starting at the headlight switch is a good idea!









Maybe it is the hazard flasher switch... It is buzzing instead of flashing.









Perhaps it is time to label everything and take it all off and really get down to it.


















After undoing all the bolts on the side and bezel of the dash, the clips holding the back of the dash pop off.









Fair enough! I guess it's definitely time to get the little details running smoothly.
Driving an antique... Priceless.


The problem is clearly a single blue and white cluster, and the headlight switch wiring right into the plug.
It's a good thing I have a couple spare harnesses and some new spade plugs.
The switch on the right is being replaced by the new one on the left, with new spade plugs.








Even the old bulb can be replaced by the new one, an LED version in blue!!!









I am having major success thanks to this company who makes better possible. I like the quality.
I got six sets of the little blue lamps, and all turn signals and markers, really fun stuff.

In order to ensure safety, I took apart the entire dash and chased the melted wire to make sure everything works.
Making sure to inspect every single wire and connection for signs of damage. 
I plan on rebuilding this wiring harness with a new fuse box, with brand new wires and plugs.
For now I need this car to be my daily driver like always.
It has been parked for a few months.










While the dash is out, I can install some new instrument panel bulbs... The old ones are getting dim.









Easy install with the dash already apart!!!!









So much more to come !!!! Some major awesome sauce!


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

This is the big problem, the lights in the front bumper are different than the side markers with different bulbs.
Definitely a major part of the problem here.









Someone had hard wired the light bulb into the socket because it was missing parts.
Soldered them right to the contacts and used hockey tape with some unknown mess inside. 
This is some of the last work to do on the car. Except body work and interior! I have a plan...








But first I have to repair the connections. I have found the best conductivity with directly wrapping wire around each other and soldering it.
Then a jacket of heat shrink insulator wraps around it and seals it from weather.
I like to protect this further with conduit tubing and electrical tape wrap. I always try to use same or larger gauge wire.








Solder keeps it held tight, lead free silver solder rosin core.

Slide the insulator (placed on the wire before soldering) carefully over the exposed area and heat to shrink.









Back of the gauges is a cluster of wiring, and I am creating a new wire harness for them as well because I am using the new LED lighting for them.
Blue like everything else. I plan to rewire the gauges back to the headlight switch, so it all comes on at once.
Otherwise, it is a seperate switch in the dash to light it.









This bundle went to the speedo and rpm instrument panel. The old clip falls out all the time and results in the instruments not working.
I have had to reach under the dash often to wiggle it because many of the wires are broken or failing, due to the excess wiggle.
Brand new plug fixes that.








One at a time, patience, make sure the connection is solid... Make sure the seal is tight... check continuity...









Inspecting everywhere revealed many hidden spots where the wires had melted. 
The harness replacement took care of all these with fresh copper.
Every single one with damage replaced with new.









This was definitely a huge part of the problem. 
Burned out right to the headlight switch.








So happy this is all being repaired...
After all the new cables were installed, and the new switches in, the turn signal flashing works properly, except the front bumper ambers.
This is the kind of thing that got removed from the existing wiring. Any old corroded broken mess.
How can electricity flow through the front one?









No sense trying to Mickey Mouse something together. Brand new all the way.









Same thing for the doors... New lock pins on the body since everything else will be new.








Speaking of doors... Did I ever mention my driver side door handle has never worked before? Since I have owned the car!!!
I bought brand new keyed door lock handles to install on my new doors. No more reaching in through the little triangle window to open the door.
I cannot believe how long I have put up with it. 

Really that is all I could do before the new lights arrive. I installed new headlights and wiring harness for them with brand new grounds and inspected all the way back.
So I started to look at the body. Just horrible how it has corroded. I have some time while I'm here to fix it up!!!
































I realized 90% of the rust on the car is on the fenders, doors and trunk.
So the new doors will be stripped and finished with new hardware and paint so my car can finally be nice.









And Bam! Like a brand new car soon... Just gotta be patient, one step at a time...


















Fenders and trunk too









So the logos have to come off and be installed on the new trunk.









I am really tempted to get a slightly different badge for the back. What do you think?









While I'm at it and I have the time I decided to investigate the new engine and tranny. 









Now with the intake manifold off the cast iron crap at the back is rusted on again...
Going to have to do surgery on that one too... 








I think its a hydraulic head. Only four clamps.









Well there is so much more to come... So much more... Im finally going to wolfsburg this car to the extreme.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

*Wolfsburg*

Got some brand new Wolfsburg bling to install on the new doors and a new shifter ball...
Also a cigarette lighter and housing to install in the dash.
When the cigarette lighter is sitting in the housing, it has little blue LEDs that light up as well.








Even wolfsburg door lock pins! Already put the Wolfsburg tire valve caps on the wheels.

























Ok there is something else being installed as well... A new stereo system. With USB anywhere I choose.
I would like a little compartment somewhere to hold a USB drive to deliver Gigabytes of music.









Something to power all the speakers... A four channel amplifier.









Nice new speakers for the front; separate component speakers with their own crossover.
Silk dome tweeters! Rubber butyl woofers!









And for the Bass Head in me... I just need to build this box...
Bandpass ported for deep rich bass









Because this 12 inch Alpine subwoofer is going to pound.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

*Cabby girls*









This car can go anywhere! What a joy to drive! It really has been all over the place...
Up mountains, down to the coast, and is a blast to drive! Even in the snow. Especially in the snow!


























I had noticed the top was ripping and tearing and the struts at the back had started to bend out.
Luckily I had a lot of parts come of a really good wrecker.
Including an almost brand new top!!!
Just tore off the old top and bolted on the new entire assembly.









Well I was just thinking the other day... Why do I love this car so much?
I just keep working on it and improving it, do I ever stop to wonder, why?
The subconscious mind is an interesting thing; maybe these movie images could explain...


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

*Body kit... ?*

So a little sneak peek... Body kit. Anyone know where to get the little trim clips that hold it onto the bumper?









This is the bumper that holds it on... there are rectangle holes in it and the clips hold the bumper cover on...


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

*GTI Rabriolet*

My Rabbit is a hungry beast. It eats other cars for breakfast.
Well, in terms of parts that is! 
The Rabbit convertible I started out with has already consumed the GTI...
Now another parts car to dissect. Other parts from random junkyards as well...
I got back to the rebuild site to see the lights for the front had arrived.









Having done some bodywork and prepping on the new trunk, it had been primed and now painted and drying!









While removing the front bumper to body bolts I discovered the horn uses the same bolt as the bumper mount.
I thought I should make note of that for reinstallation.








I tore off the old corroded bumpers on my car and decided to use the new solid mounts.
It brings the bumper in closer nicer lines and look, plus we all know the shock bumpers haven't worked in years.
Rusted shut...









These are the brackets that mount to the bumper and hold the indicator amber flashers at the front of the bumper.









Brackets bumper to body








The part number if anyone is interested...









Lots of masking required for the doors! With everything off the bumpers, they were easy.

















These are the little clips that hold the Big Bumpers of the body kit onto the steel bumper housing.









I only have enough for one bumper, so I had to make a style choice.
I let this front bumper sit it out for now. It has different lights, which we will get to later.








This rear bumper for me is a must, as it is the only required bumper on the car. 
I could install turn signals in the front bumper mount holes if I wanted.









The rear bumper shocks were very corroded much worse than the front.
Probably due to driving on dirt roads and natural sandblasting from the wheels spitting gravel and sand.









Lots of bodywork to do... I am ordering rear wheel arches and quarter panels for the back.
Totally blasted into oblivion and the reason for most of the problems in the car.
Mica is a common dust here and it gets into electrical circuits. The whole inside of the car got a dust coat.
The blasted hole in the rear allows moisture and metallic dust from dirt roads in.
Until the parts show up I will fix it with bondo and spot glaze putty.









You can see the rear quarter panel here is pretty chewed up. Dirt roads with no mudflaps. Lesson learned!









One of the interesting things I discovered on this my first foray into body work was deep dents and repairing them!
I had experienced driving through an avalanche of rock particles on my favorite commute past the bluffs...
It was the rocks that day that smashed my front hood middle and side rear fender so bad it was shocking!!!
So glad they didn't hit my glass or come through the roof! 
There exists a gun that welds on a little pin of metal, then you use a dent puller with a slide hammer to pop out the dent!
So that is what a dent puller is really for! Hilarious! just like the name....









Just hanging around...









It is a good thing this is all happening now... On close examination the winters have been hard on this car! 
Just look close at all the battle damage... Just wear and tear from salty winter roads mostly...
This hole is new! Probably where all that water is coming from...








Each of the fenders had dings that showed up mysteriously at the mall or parked overnight...

























This plastic shroud in the wheel well needs to be removed to remove the fender.








This was only in the way on the passenger side, I had to remove the bolt and slide the strap out.
That was the only way to access the upper inside bolt, which was tough, because I had to scrape off undercoat.
The most glorious, beautiful, undercoat.








Fender off!!!









With the bumpers off, I can find out what kind of side marker mess I'm dealing with.
Ah, they welded it right onto an led bulb. Which fits really tight inside the housing.
Not reliable side markers. It's a good thing I have a bag of spare parts.








Underneath the wrapping we find crimped spade bits...









On the other side the lights did not look good. On the left was existing metal one...
The right plastic one is going in. Coincidentally, the little amber LED s im using fit much better in the plastic housing.
The metal housing is too tight for the LED bulbs to fit.









Even new good working condition ones are too tight a fit with the new LED bulbs.
They bend back quite a bit and do work, but are not ideal.








You can see they are just a little bit longer. The base fits, just a little long to fit in the lens.









Lots of work under the hood, electrical grounding improvements right to the battery and addition of extra battery to ground wire.








While you are in here it is useful to put new charcoal in the unit...









Old trunk... New trunk!
Reinstall all the little bits that make it function again...









Even repair the corrosion in the body underneath the fenders!

















Remove this door with the old goofy doesn't work door lock and never opens window...








The little pins for the door stay do come out, use a cutter and wiggle it out.
Remove the doors and install new ones. I sat on the ground and supported underneath the door when removing.

















Remove the old cracked tail lights to install new shiny beauties...









New gun mount bumper thingy...
























































Them little trim bumper clips fasten the shell to the bumper...



































Done for now!!!!


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

*Dash lights*

So hard to get a good picture of what the dash lights look like... 
This is a pretty dark shot but you can basically see how it turned out.









The one gauge on the right is bright because the face ring cracked off long ago.
I just used silicone to hod it in place until I can get a new VDO for temperature.
I have one from the GTI but I will have to tinker with it to see if it will work in place of the broken one.
The plugs at the back are different, but I'm unsure if they work with the same voltage/resistance etc...
They do both fit a 2 and one sixteenth inch hole.
The plan for a new dash is still on... The stereo and bling will go together soon. 
Whole new projects to undertake, with so little summer left.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

*I learned nothing!!!!!!*

Even though I have just undertaken a large rebuild, I cannot help but to go drive in ridiculous places.
Now that my car is back, I have the urge to go see some beautiful wild places.
Places I love. Hard to get to nooks and crannies of the mountains I call home.
Coated in dust once again from dirt roads...









Just up to the left in this picture and around a few corners is where I drove through the avalanche.
This route is part of my regular commute, and just one of the risks of living in nature.
Like mountain lions and grizzly bears. They live here too.









Here we go again...









Kind of ridiculous. This car can make it though.


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

*Don't Call it a Comeback I've been here for years*

After getting locked out of my photobucket account which seemed like ransomware (they were demanding $400 per month to continue using 3rd party picture hosting) then getting locked out of here its pretty nice to be back! It looks like the pictures are showing up again so I am sharing the latest details of this old VW Rabbit Convertibe! Many new updates coming with this Rabbit this year!!! I also have videos I am editing that show some common fixes for things I encountered, I will be putting on youtube and many cool surprises yet to be seen!! Stay tuned to this 8v Build its getting super dialed up!


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

*Rabbit Go Fast*

Rabbit Wolfsburg Drop Top MK1 Driving in Canada


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## Jettaboy1884 (Jan 20, 2004)

^ What a great thread and timeline to see the progress! It's great to see all the pictures up as well, as you took a ton of detailed shots that show how things go together. 

Looking forward to seeing more progress, keep it coming. :thumbup: :thumbup:


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

*Photobucket*

So we have all seen Photobucket basically destroy all old blogs on the internet, anyone who hosted pictures with them, anyway. I have been archiving all my old photos from them in an attempt to fix this, because the photos were blurry for a few years. I have no idea what happened, but it has somehow been fixed!!! You can actually see the pictures again!!! I am still archiving the rest of the pictures, just in case and am planning on posting this up to a different website for posterity. WoooHoo! I have got lots of new info and will be releasing 4k VIDEO HOW TO'S soon, keep an eye out. I am going to start with valve lash adjustment and timing belt. Oh and there will be lots more details, and a rally video with this old beast!!! Stay tuned! If the pictures go blurry again I will share the link to this blog on a different site.


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## ny_fam (Apr 3, 2004)

Nice long term project!

I like these where did you get them from?


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## Hoffa (Jun 7, 2001)

Great adventure here thanks for sharing!


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## Rabbitissimo (Dec 21, 2009)

Well, Photobucket has threatened me for the last time. I will be publishing this rebuild with all the pictures on my website, rabbitissimo.com ... Please be patient... There is a lot of info to go through and its my first website. rabbitissimo.com


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