# Custom FMIC vs. bolt-on FMIC kits



## paullee (Feb 3, 2008)

Hello,
Just took my front bumper off to have a new front grill mounted/the 4 rivet holes filled and the whole thing re-sprayed (no HP gains with this mod) and I'm staring at the gaping hole thinking that this just might be a good time to switch over to a FMIC. Questions:
1. Should I stick with the ready made bolt on kits to save on any potential







, or would ya recommend trying my luck with a custom/DIY FMIC setup?
2. If I proceed with a custom/DIY setup, can anyone give me some words of wisdom from your experiences that would help to save me from some of this







and potentially lessen some of this







. Information I'm seeking is:
- Intercooler type / size
- Piping kits
- Oulet diameter (2.5" or 3.0")
- Intercooler mounting recommendations
- Any other helpful hints
I realize this is asking a lot, but you guys are a wealth of information. If you feel by the questions above that I'm over my head, please sound off...that will probably save me from making a mess of things with DIY project that should not have been started.

Thanks/


----------



## steve05ram360 (Aug 14, 2006)

*Re: Custom FMIC vs. bolt-on FMIC kits (paullee)*

I'd ask this question over here
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zeroforum?id=27
they have a lot of answers there...


----------



## blinky76 (Apr 21, 2008)

*Re: Custom FMIC vs. bolt-on FMIC kits (paullee)*

http://www.maperformance.com/p....html
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW


----------



## paullee (Feb 3, 2008)

*Re: Custom FMIC vs. bolt-on FMIC kits (blinky76)*

Hey Blinky,
Do you also recommend Turbo International's universal I/C that they sell as a complete kit along with the piping or just the piping kit...I do realize you would probably get what you paid for...
Thanks for the quick response.


----------



## blinky76 (Apr 21, 2008)

*Re: Custom FMIC vs. bolt-on FMIC kits (paullee)*

I've seen people who have used ebay intercoolers and had good results and people who had bad results no personal experience with ebay cores. Personally I would rather pay extra for a known good core then risk buying a bad one for half the price. I run the precision 750HP core and even with its massive size it was an easy fit.
I couldnt find the ebay piping kit that I bought but it was very good quality I was surprised when it arrived I was expecting alot less then what I got http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## paullee (Feb 3, 2008)

*Re: Custom FMIC vs. bolt-on FMIC kits (blinky76)*

Check.
Would you consider welding those pipes once you fitted them instead of using the provided pipe connectors/clamps?


----------



## blinky76 (Apr 21, 2008)

*Re: Custom FMIC vs. bolt-on FMIC kits (paullee)*

The ones I got are very thinwall I'm decent at tig welding and I wouldnt attempt it a pro could possibly do it but personally I would use the silicone couplers


----------



## storx (Dec 6, 2006)

i did an custum FMIC.. and i saved hundreds of dollars and it pulls harder then before.. even though i have a boost leak right now waiting on an silicone adapter.. tried to use an 2.5 on the stock MAP sensor pipe didnt seal very well so i ordered a smaller size to fit but other then that it still pulls very hard.. i took it up to modshack to talk to steve and buy his vent ring and he took it for a test drive and said it pulls very hard without any noticable lagg... he was very impressed even though im spiking 22 and tapering off to 12 psi from boost leak..


----------



## storx (Dec 6, 2006)

tip of wisdom i bought aluminum pipe and i filled it with sand and used an bench vise to make the turns i needed to get out of the pipe.. some peaces i used an small propane torch on... seen this on foose show.. draw an line with an permanent marker on the aluminum pipe and when it starts to burn off the pipe then take the torch off and bend it in the direction you need.. make sure when u heating it up dont sit in one area to long go back and forth evenly... it was a simple install and i used the stock impact bar in the front for mounting the fmic.. drilled through it and bolted it right behind it.
some pics of my install:








































last pic is with the bumper back on... i drove around without my bumper for a week to make sure the pipes wouldnt pop off...

_Modified by storx at 6:25 PM 8-31-2008_


_Modified by storx at 6:27 PM 8-31-2008_


----------



## paullee (Feb 3, 2008)

*Re: (storx)*

Storx: That is seriously a super-sized FMIC. Looks ginormeous with the front bumper removed but everything tucks in real nice. Where did you get the impact bar that you used to make the mounting bracket?
Questions for both: Did you couple the new piping on either side up to where the old SMIC connected to the OEM hoses? If so, best to change out the old hoses to some aftermarket stuff like Samco?
Thanks for the tips. I am pretty much pushing stock HP right now (no chip, not tuned, no BT...) and no plans to fiddle with the engine output in the near future (except for a 42DD DP / aftermarket exhaust setup) but still would want to do the mod correctly.
Thanks again.


----------



## blinky76 (Apr 21, 2008)

*Re: (paullee)*

















I reused the stock hoses that go into the side mounts I was going to redo them with metal pipes but couldnt get the MAP sensor out so I gave up the second picture is what I ended up using untill I dropped it off at 1552v2 its flexible radiator hose and some exhaust pipe adaptors pretty ghetto but it worked


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (storx)*

Storx, how did you contain the sand in the pipe when you heated/bent it? Thats a sweet idea...


----------



## blinky76 (Apr 21, 2008)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*

If I remember from his thread correctly it was a sock filled with sand


----------



## paullee (Feb 3, 2008)

*Re: (blinky76)*

Thanks Bro. If I went 2.5 OD on the inlet/outlet of the universal intercooler, would that negate the need for the adapters to the stock hoses. If not, what size I/C inlet/outlet size would you use to achieve that if you had to do it over?


----------



## blinky76 (Apr 21, 2008)

*Re: (paullee)*

With 2.5 inlet/outlet intercooler core and a 2.5 piping kit I dont think you would need any adaptors


----------



## paullee (Feb 3, 2008)

*Re: (blinky76)*

Roger that. Will know for sure once I move from ankle high water side of the pool into the deep end and start taking things apart...


----------



## blinky76 (Apr 21, 2008)

*Re: (paullee)*

Brackets to hold the FMIC were the hardest part for me since I had no tools and the work was being done in the parking lot good luck on yours


----------



## paullee (Feb 3, 2008)

*Re: (blinky76)*

WTF? Doesn't Bragg have a hobby shop that you could have used? 
Trying to go the route that Storx went with the upper bracket, similar to what another forum member in Russia posted recently when he did his FMIC. Now the trick is to find a piece that will work. Off to begin the search.


----------



## blinky76 (Apr 21, 2008)

*Re: (paullee)*

Yeah Bragg has a shop you can use but it was closed for the 4 day weekend and I was bored I never planned on doing the FMIC myself I was gonna wait and have 1552v2 do it all but when your bored and staring at shiny parts the temptation to put some of them on becomes very great.


----------



## storx (Dec 6, 2006)

ok... sorry been on the road.. the bracket is 3 inch angle aluminum at lowes.. was like 19 dollars for 8 feet of it.. i used the left over i didnt use for the main bracket to make the other brackets.. like the bottom brackets i took the angle aluminum and cut it into 2 strips and ran it to the bumper mounting bolts on the rear of the bumper... 
the fmic is huge yes.. its a 600hp core.. 31x12x3 but it fits so nicely.. 
u will need only 2.5 inch adapters except if u use the stock MAP pipe like i did.. u will need a 2.25 to 2.5 pipe for that connection other then that its pretty straight forward... the aluminum was pretty simple to bend.. just put a sock inside and filled it up with sand and yanked at it... i used duct tape around the pipe were it was in the vise to protect the pipe from bein ate up from the teeth of the vise...
i recently placed temp sensors from computer parts i had and adheared them to the inlet and outlet of the FMIC.. there is rougly a 40-65 degree difference in the in and out temps based on what has been 80+ temp days...


----------



## storx (Dec 6, 2006)

if u want an idea of how the lag is on my car asked modshack.. steve.. he will tell you.. how hard it pulls compared to his 225 he owned a year or so ago..


----------



## paullee (Feb 3, 2008)

*Re: (storx)*

Went to HP today and struck out. Lowe's beats Home Depot everytime!!!
Here where I'm thinking so far:
- 29x9x3 intercooler, 2.5" inlet/outlet
- 2.5" piping kit
- New Samco upper boost hoses while I'm at it
On the driver's side, I'm planning on eaving that plastic hose piece with the sensor plugged in alone and running new pipes up to it from the new FMIC. On the passenger side, I'll plan on running new pipes up to the OEM hose for now.
Storx: With the above planned configuration, what you're telling me is I'll still need a 2.5" to 2.25" reducer/coupler? Where?
Semper Fi Brother,


----------



## paullee (Feb 3, 2008)

*Re: (paullee)*

Sorry bro, just re-read your post. The MAP pipe connection is 2.25" and I'll need the 2.25 to 2.5 coupler there?
Blinky: I know how you feel bro...nothing I'm doing here is necessary.


----------



## storx (Dec 6, 2006)

*Re: (paullee)*


_Quote, originally posted by *paullee* »_Sorry bro, just re-read your post. The MAP pipe connection is 2.25" and I'll need the 2.25 to 2.5 coupler there?
Blinky: I know how you feel bro...nothing I'm doing here is necessary.

that is correct oh wise one...


----------



## storx (Dec 6, 2006)

*Re: (paullee)*


_Quote, originally posted by *paullee* »_Went to HP today and struck out. Lowe's beats Home Depot everytime!!!
Here where I'm thinking so far:
- 29x9x3 intercooler, 2.5" inlet/outlet
- 2.5" piping kit
- New Samco upper boost hoses while I'm at it
On the driver's side, I'm planning on eaving that plastic hose piece with the sensor plugged in alone and running new pipes up to it from the new FMIC. On the passenger side, I'll plan on running new pipes up to the OEM hose for now.
Storx: With the above planned configuration, what you're telling me is I'll still need a 2.5" to 2.25" reducer/coupler? Where?
Semper Fi Brother,


personally if ure not going to upgrade the output of the power besides a downpipe i would go with an 28x9x2.5 inch fmic.. that is rougly equal to the square area of the 2 side mounts so u would get less lagg... if ure running stock and dont advance the timing low in the rpms then ure going to see a lot of lagg on that huge core..


_Modified by storx at 6:02 AM 9-2-2008_


----------



## paullee (Feb 3, 2008)

*Re: (storx)*

Copy that. 
Having a hard time finding the I/C in the size you suggested with a 2.5" inlet/outlet (the ones I found came with 2.25" inlet/outlet). Any other size that would let me keep the inlet/outlet at 2.5"?


----------



## blinky76 (Apr 21, 2008)

*Re: (paullee)*

First core I linked is 350hp rated so not too large for stock turbo and has 2.5" I/O I'll search for some more options 2morrow when I'm bored at work


----------



## paullee (Feb 3, 2008)

*Re: (blinky76)*

A lot of sites are blocked for me at work so will have search at home afterwork today. Thanks for the assist.


----------



## DurTTy (Aug 14, 2007)

here is a custom kit i aqcuired.
personally, i think the less couplings the less hassles. (leaks)

































this is the core compared to a widescreen tv, 22 or 20" cant remember.

































that should give you a good idea on clearence etc.. mind you i have a 180TTQ

_Modified by DurTTy at 2:24 PM 9-4-2008_


_Modified by DurTTy at 2:24 PM 9-4-2008_


----------



## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

less connections also = less turbulence


----------



## paullee (Feb 3, 2008)

*Re: (cincyTT)*

FMIC project update:
- Obtained Alumimun L bracket (Thanks Storx!)
- 28x9x2.5 universal I/C in the mail
Still searching for a suitable 2.5" Intercooler pipe kit. Looking for a kit that has the bead on the ends of the pipes.
Question: Where is the most suitable place to relocate the sensor/bracket currently at the bottom center of the radiator?


_Modified by paullee at 8:08 PM 12-13-2008_


----------



## DurTTy (Aug 14, 2007)

the temperature sensor can be mounted on the right side underneath the light. there is a hole for the bolt that holds the bracket. 
my suggestion to you is get everything mounted, lights, ic pipes, cooler, couplers, DV relocation, etc etc. THEN look for a mounting hole .. also be prepared to take out the headlight washers from the bumper and also be prepared to move the re-bar forward with some washers DO NOT BEND THE RE-BAR. holes on the rad support are ez to drill... it looks like its made from a resin type of plastic. 
FYI .. getting the headlights to fit again is a PIA .. trust me... i suggest you get some help to wiggle,flex, bend the ic piping couplers etc to give you enough play to bolt up the lights
i hope that helps.. im sure there was other things too ... good luck


----------



## paullee (Feb 3, 2008)

*Re: (DurTTy)*

More good news..














Not that any of this was really necessary in the first place...















Thanks


----------



## DurTTy (Aug 14, 2007)

did you get the cooler setup yet ?


----------



## T-TownTT (Aug 5, 2008)

*Re: (DurTTy)*

Hey DurTTy-
did you have that kit custom made? Any chance of them making more...ive been searching for a piping kit like that..thanks!


----------



## paullee (Feb 3, 2008)

*Re: (DurTTy)*

FMIC project update:
- SMIC's removed
- FMIC mounted
- AWE Boost Gauge on its way
Purchased a set of 2mm alum. I/C piping kit, fab'ed a mock-up of the I/C pipes out of PVC pipes and angled connectors and decided to take to a welding shop in Bellflower to customize/weld a set of I/C pipes for the connection. A quick pic:


----------



## paullee (Feb 3, 2008)

*Re: (DurTTy)*

Much apologies...wrong pic in previous post...
FMIC project update:
- SMIC's removed
- FMIC mounted
- AWE Boost Gauge on its way
Purchased a set of 2mm alum. I/C piping kit, fab'ed a mock-up of the I/C pipes out of PVC pipes and angled connectors and decided to take to a welding shop in Bellflower to customize/weld a set of I/C pipes for the connection. A quick pic:


----------



## paullee (Feb 3, 2008)

*Re: (DurTTy)*

Latest update with the FMIC project:
Got the custom I/C pipes back and installed, then re-installed the front bumper. The paint matches so no issues there. However, the AWE boost gauge that I installed isn't reading though







. Will resolve that next week. In the meantime, here are some pics







:


----------



## DnA-TT (Oct 21, 2003)

Looks like some quality welds, there. Nice job picking things out and putting together a nice FMIC.
Thoughts on the performance?


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (paullee)*

I like the shaved bumper paullee, the Misano/black rings is http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## paullee (Feb 3, 2008)

*Re: (DnA-TT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DnA-TT* »_Looks like some quality welds, there. Nice job picking things out and putting together a nice FMIC.
Thoughts on the performance?

Yes. The Smooth bumper makes it go faster on the top end!!







.
Seriously, I will have to wait on the boost gauge issue to get resolved to see how much boost i'm pushing now with the new I/C versus before. It pulled pretty good on the test drive with no detectable boost leaks that I can hear. I'm pretty much running a stock engine (no performance mods at all) so I don't think I'll be able to notice too much of a difference.
The FMIC altogether was about $550 for everything (intercooler/piping kit/misc. mounting parts/labor for custom pipes), a little better than the ready-made bolt on kits for $1000 that don't even come with alum. pipes. The cat who fab'ed the pipes knows his business so it turned out decent in my opinion.
The bumper/grill project was slightly more, but worth it for me in the end in order to get a different look.


----------



## paullee (Feb 3, 2008)

*Re: (paullee)*

Took the TT out for a drive this afternoon and about 5 minutes into it, I got on the right pedal a little bit when I heard a popping noise and then started having the following issues:
- EPC light came on
- Check engine light also came on
- Engine starting surging at idle
- Loss of power/car felt sluggish
Do I have a loose connection / boost leak somewhere? Help!!


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (paullee)*

Yes, definetly a leak...just do some exploring...


----------



## paullee (Feb 3, 2008)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_Yes, definetly a leak...just do some exploring...

Right you are http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif !! Took the bumper and headlights off and saw that one of the upper hose connections on the driver's side had popped loose...
I'll check all other connections and drive around sans bumper for a few days to make sure nothing else pops out on me.
On a related note, how do I reset the "check engine" light? Anyone...Anyone...Buehler?


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (paullee)*

Unhook the negative cable for a half-hour, and call the dealer for your security code. You'll need the VIN, and if they're going to charge, just keep calling dealerships...I got mine for free


----------



## paullee (Feb 3, 2008)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*

copy. Thanks!!


----------



## paullee (Feb 3, 2008)

*Re: (paullee)*

All issues resolved, check engine light gone. I already had the security code for the radio so we're GTG.
I'll leave the bumper off the another day or two, probably until after I receive/install my replacement boost gauge from AWE. 


_Modified by paullee at 8:05 PM 12-13-2008_


----------

