# Intake Cam Installation Questions



## bluecuda97 (Nov 4, 2012)

So I hope this is the right place to post this...
I've done lots of research to try and answer these questions but I've come up with nothing. The inevitable happened, my cam follower blew up, and now I have the wear on my HPFP and the intake cam. I plan to replace it all with this kit from ECS ( http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-A3-FW...aft_Replacement_Kit_2006_2007_2008/ES2081105/ ) but what I want to know is if there are any special tools I'll need to do this job. Any help would be much appreciated thanks \

I'll throw in some cringe worthy pics :banghead:


























The whole top section and half the shim that was set in the spring is missing.


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## skateboy_918 (Mar 15, 2013)

I have 90% of those parts if you haven't bought the kit yet

It's all brand new, let me know if you're interested, I PMed you!


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## majic (Mar 10, 2005)

Wanted to chime in here since I recently did this.

You're going to want to get one of these: http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm?itemId=281168642234

Just search for FSI cam lock tool.

Go ahead and get a new timing belt and water pump (how many miles on the vehicle?). You're going to have to take the timing belt off to do the job (it's possible not to, but proper way to do it is to remove both cams.). Europaparts.com sells pretty good kits.

I would get a good tool to hold the exhaust cam sprocket. Search for this: Part MN3036 - Universal Sprocket Buster (TM) Counterhold Tool.

If you don't want to do the timing belt, it is possible to only take out the intake cam. To do this, you will have to remove the cam adjuster ring on the exhaust camshaft (item 15 in this photo: http://www.audi-forums.com/attachme...249371-2003-a3-fsi-code-vag-code-a15-0773.png). And you will need to get the replacement bolt for it (TTY bolt). It has a special tool to remove it (do NOT try to use a torx bit. You will strip it). Special tool is also sold by metal nerd: MNT4080.

Hopefully the cam end housing is not screwed up. Sometimes when these followers go, they mess up the slot in which they reciprocate. If you get low fuel pressures once you replace everything, consider changing the cam chain housing. 

Lastly, I'm going to plug a time lapse video that I made. 10 hours in about 5 minutes


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## bluecuda97 (Nov 4, 2012)

I'm at about 130,000 so I'll definitely look into the the timing belt and such as long as I can afford it. I'm 17 and get paid minimum wage so it'll be a couple of weeks 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## majic (Mar 10, 2005)

bluecuda97 said:


> I'm at about 130,000 so I'll definitely look into the the timing belt and such as long as I can afford it. I'm 17 and get paid minimum wage so it'll be a couple of weeks
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That is very unfortunate. I'm sorry to hear that, friend. 

Service interval for timing belt is 105k miles. If you only change one thing over there, make sure it's the timing belt. Water pump really should be replaced because you don't want that seizing and stripping the timing belt (that will be catastrophic failure to the engine).

If I were you, I would look around a little more. Also, I have a used intake cam. I would be willing to sell it to you for very cheap as it is merely a paperweight for me at the moment. Could save you a few hundred dollars. PM if interested


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## skateboy_918 (Mar 15, 2013)

I have a cheap partial ECS kit for sale here if you're interested: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...olts-sealant-follower&p=86496598#post86496598


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## krkan507 (Jul 23, 2013)

skateboy_918 said:


> I have a cheap partial ECS kit for sale here if you're interested: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...olts-sealant-follower&p=86496598#post86496598


Do you still have that timing chain cover Ive seen it for sale on mkvgolf let me know I nees the cover and vacume pump


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## krkan507 (Jul 23, 2013)

Since you guys are on this topic ill share this photo with u guys make sure you clean this screen out wharever your filter doesnt pick up this will. This is what feeds oil for the follower and timing chain


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## advash (Aug 27, 2002)

majic said:


> Wanted to chime in here since I recently did this.
> 
> You're going to want to get one of these: http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm?itemId=281168642234
> 
> ...


majic

This is an awesome video.. Thank you for sharing... Seeing as you took the cams out I was hoping you might have a idea or solution on an issue I have... One of my exhaust rollers is no longer under the cam lobe. The roller is there but off to one side, haven't pulled anything other then the valve cover. 
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/imjustdave/VW Carbon Buildup/20151004_145215.jpg

Again Awesome video... but from the looks of things I will have to do all of this work to fix my issue. :banghead:


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## majic (Mar 10, 2005)

advash said:


> majic
> 
> This is an awesome video.. Thank you for sharing... Seeing as you took the cams out I was hoping you might have a idea or solution on an issue I have... One of my exhaust rollers is no longer under the cam lobe. The roller is there but off to one side, haven't pulled anything other then the valve cover.
> http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/imjustdave/VW Carbon Buildup/20151004_145215.jpg
> ...


Good god, you're luck you haven't had some kind of catastrophic failure with the roller to the side like that. I'm tempted to say you might be able to reuse that cam... but I'd be very leery of it. If there are any scratches/defects you can catch with your fingernail, it's done. 

As for the roller, do yourself a favor and get a new roller and lifter. They can be had for ~15-20 dollars I believe. I think there are aftermarket lifters that INA makes which cost 3 or 4 dollars. The rollers might cost a few more. 

As for those valves... when they're that gunked up, it's quite the job. With a little patience, lots of solvent, some scribe/pick type dental tools, you'll be able to get it off. Just soften it up little by little, pick at it, and use compressed air to blow the big chunks out. make sure you cover everything up because this is a seriously dirty job. 

I would highly recommend the green VW anaerobic cam cradle sealant... I used the supposed aftermarket equivalent by victor renz (for reference, it's blue), and it never seemed to seal quite the same as the green stuff. It has done the job decently well, but it still seems like there are very minor oil leaks... these leaks cause less than a quart consumption between oil changes, but it's vexing none the less.

Last note -- I would also recommend getting the ARP cam cradle bolts (http://www.uspmotorsports.com/ARP-VW-Audi-2.0L-FSI-4cyl-Cam-Tower-Bolt-Kit.html). You might be able to find them for slightly less than the website I referenced there, but this is still a pretty good deal. The factory ones are stretch bolts, so you have to replace them anyway... the cost of replacement is something like ~$30USD... so if you buy these instead you can reuse them. If it's your first time doing this job, chances are good that you're going to have to do it twice... you'll get to the very end of the job and you'll notice something is off. Give yourself peace of mind by getting hardware that's reusable (as a general VW/audi maintenance rule, I would usually replace hardware with hardened hardware where applicable... and if it's a stretch bolt or TTY hardware, I always replace...)


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## iqoair (May 30, 2015)

majic said:


> Good god, you're luck you haven't had some kind of catastrophic failure with the roller to the side like that. I'm tempted to say you might be able to reuse that cam... but I'd be very leery of it. If there are any scratches/defects you can catch with your fingernail, it's done.
> 
> As for the roller, do yourself a favor and get a new roller and lifter. They can be had for ~15-20 dollars I believe. I think there are aftermarket lifters that INA makes which cost 3 or 4 dollars. The rollers might cost a few more.
> 
> ...


I used a $10 tube of Permatex anaerobic flange sealant, pn # 51531 on my cam cradle and it hasn't leaked, or showed any signs of leakage at all. The VW stuff was over $100 Canadian. Take the time and clean it well (yes it's a pain) , and make sure you don't seal off the oil passages for the cam chain by mistake. The cradle bolts are tty, but I reused them with no issues. That intake cam in the picture shown is screwed.


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## vtraudt (Mar 1, 2010)

iqoair said:


> I used a $10 tube of Permatex anaerobic flange sealant, pn # 51531 on my cam cradle and it hasn't leaked, or showed any signs of leakage at all.


Also found 51031 (higher tamp, larger gap) nad 51831 (for lower temp since temp not specified?)

51531: with less than .015" gap. OEM approved  use where OEs specify “anaerobic” gasket (cures in the absence of air). Withstands temperatures to 300°F (149°C). 
Suggested Applications: Water pumps, thermostat housings, transmission pans, transmission case covers, engine cases, timing covers, and transaxle casings.

51031: temperatures to 400°F (204°C), fills gaps up to 0.020” (primed). 
Suggested Applications: Water pumps, thermostat housings, engine cases, timing covers, transmission pans, transmission case covers, and transaxle casings.

51831: Fills gaps up to .015". 
Suggested Applications: Water pumps, thermostat housings, transmission pans, transmission case covers, engine cases, timing covers, and transaxle casings

Anyone know who makes to VW stuff?


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## vtraudt (Mar 1, 2010)

vtraudt said:


> Also found 51031 (higher tamp, larger gap) nad 51831 (for lower temp since temp not specified?)
> 
> 51531: with less than .015" gap. OEM approved – use where OE’s specify “anaerobic” gasket (cures in the absence of air). Withstands temperatures to 300°F (149°C).
> Suggested Applications: Water pumps, thermostat housings, transmission pans, transmission case covers, engine cases, timing covers, and transaxle casings.
> ...


From Deutsche Auto Parts website: This sealant is most commonly used on Camshaft cradles for 2.0T engines and Oil pans and is a great alternative to the very expensive VW Audi sealant. They show a Permatex 51531 (for double the price) with the name removed.


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