# 95 golf sport



## anextgli (Oct 5, 2005)

need brakes. front and rear. im hearing noises on both end. 
im wondering if i need to buy races, bearings etc.

or can i just buy pads and rotors and swap parts out.??
if so, do i need to bleed entire system?

appreciate any help.


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## bobomb (Sep 19, 2011)

What kind of noises? Are they only when you apply the brakes or is it all the time?

If it's only when you brake, then you probably only need pads, and maybe rotors. If you only do pads and rotors you don't need to bleed the system.

If the noises are all the time you could have a brake dragging. This can be caused by a stuck caliper or sometimes a seized guide pin. If you need a new caliper you will have to bleed the system after. You can fix a guide pin without removing the brake line, so you won't have to bleed if thats the case.

Either way, take a wheel off and inspect. Look at the pads through the caliper with a flash light and inspect their thickness. Then go from there.

It sounds like you need pads at a minimum, possibly rotors, and maybe a caliper if it's a worst case scenario.


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## anextgli (Oct 5, 2005)

Thanks for reply. 
Only had the car 3 mnths. At first I only heard grinding noise from rear when applying brakes. 
Now I hear a metal type sound in fronts while driving. Like somethings rubbing metal? So if I go buy a caliper tool kit from harbor frieght i Shud have what I need to do job ? 
Do I need the kit and a pad spreader or piston compressor. Or will I be good with the kit. Thanks again


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## bobomb (Sep 19, 2011)

anextgli said:


> Thanks for reply.
> Only had the car 3 mnths. At first I only heard grinding noise from rear when applying brakes.
> Now I hear a metal type sound in fronts while driving. Like somethings rubbing metal? So if I go buy a caliper tool kit from harbor frieght i Shud have what I need to do job ?
> Do I need the kit and a pad spreader or piston compressor. Or will I be good with the kit. Thanks again


Instead you buying the kit, you can rent it from advance auto or autozone or whatever you have. You just have to put a deposit down that you will get back when you return the kit. The kit will have a piston compressor that comes with a variety of discs that you will have to size up to your caliper piston. Attach the appropriate disc to the end of the compressor (it holds in place with magnets), and turn the t-handle. The disc will have pegs in it that catch on the grooves of the piston that allow it to turn. You will have to turn, tighten the compressor, turn, tighten, etc.

There are youtube videos out there that show the use of a compressor for screw type calipers.

There is one called like "2000 Jetta rear brake job" or something where he goes through the use of it. Of course there are DIY's on this forum too.

You definitely need pads. If you have been riding around like this for a while you probably need rotors too. When you pull the piston off of the carrier on the caliper, see if you can slide the carrier back and forth. It should have some motion to it. If it doesn't you have a seized guide pin. Which can cause seized caliper like symptoms.

You really gotta get in there to inspect it to determine exactly what you need, but at a minimum you need pads. Possibly rotors if they are all scored up. Get in there and check it out though before you start buying parts.


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## anextgli (Oct 5, 2005)

cool man. thanks again. i went to store but then realized i could prob rent tool rather then buy for one time use.
im gonna pull wheels and check what i see in a little while.
wifes gettin me pads and rotors for 140 for fronts and rears. so guess ill swap thm parts. hopefullly not too bad. i saw a write up for brake job. but that started with bleeding system. flushing fluids, changing races, bearings etc.
if i can just pull pads and rotors and swap out. that would be cool. little low on funds, been out of work from surgery for a good minute and moneys not headed my way. but got 2 kids, so need safe car.
thanks again man


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## bobomb (Sep 19, 2011)

anextgli said:


> cool man. thanks again. i went to store but then realized i could prob rent tool rather then buy for one time use.
> im gonna pull wheels and check what i see in a little while.
> wifes gettin me pads and rotors for 140 for fronts and rears. so guess ill swap thm parts. hopefullly not too bad. i saw a write up for brake job. but that started with bleeding system. flushing fluids, changing races, bearings etc.
> if i can just pull pads and rotors and swap out. that would be cool. little low on funds, been out of work from surgery for a good minute and moneys not headed my way. but got 2 kids, so need safe car.
> thanks again man


I can't speak for the exact procedure on a 95 golf... But if you search around enough I'm sure there is a DIY on this forum or another.

I know on mk4 2.0's and TDI's a pad and rotor change is not as simple as just undoing the caliper... So you just gotta do a little research to figure out exactly how to do it. There might even be a video on youtube.

Good luck.


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## greyhare (Dec 24, 2003)

If you replace the rear rotors, replace the bearings.

http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed/campingart/jettatech/rearbrakes/index.htm


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## anextgli (Oct 5, 2005)

greyhare said:


> If you replace the rear rotors, replace the bearings.
> 
> http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed/campingart/jettatech/rearbrakes/index.htm



thats what i looked at originally. thats why i asked if i needed all the extra parts.

ended up getting pads and rotors for front and rear. rented the caliper press thing.....

then stripped the screw that holds in the rotor:banghead::banghead::banghead:

not sure if i need to find a new screw....drilled old ones out. 
or will the lugs hold the rotor in place ok???


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## greyhare (Dec 24, 2003)

The screw just holds the front rotor in place to make putting the wheel on easier.


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## anextgli (Oct 5, 2005)

guess if thats the case. il put it all back together tomorrow in the am. then go to the rears.

so bearings and races.etc is a must. or optional?


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

In the rear when you change the rotors, you always change the wheel bearings since the wheel bearing races are pressed into the rotors. You're going to want to buy wheel bearing kits (2, since it takes one kit for each wheel). I just heard back from someone who bought PEX Brand rear wheel bearing kits from autohausaz.com for like $12.60. That's scary cheap, but he says all the writing and packaging were in German, the parts looked like they all came from Germany, and the quality looked good.

If you hear a roaring/grinding noise from the front, it may not be the brakes, it may be the front wheel bearings, which have to be pressed in and out of the steering knuckles. The rotors are separate, and easy to replace. The wheel bearings can be replaced at home, but it takes three special tools/sets they can cost you up to $150 at full price (Harbor Freight), and a lot less if you have time and can shop the Harbor Freight Sidewalk Sales (one this weekend starting today, Friday).

If you don't want to buy the tools, you'll have to drive the car in to have the front wheel bearings done (about $175 a side for labor plus $50-$75 a side for parts), OR remove the steering knuckles and carry them into a shop where they can press out the old, and press in the new (about $40 a side for labor and $50-$75 a side for the wheel bearings).

You can get PEX Brand front wheel bearing too, for about $33.53 a set (one set per wheel).


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## anextgli (Oct 5, 2005)

thanks for help fellas.
just finished job. front and rear rotors. and bearing kit in rear with races.
appreciate the help along the way.

noise in front turned out to be the coilover must have moved a bit and wheel was rubbing the spring and squeeling.:banghead:

anyhow. now brakes are done. thanks


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## anextgli (Oct 5, 2005)

brakes are done. 
rotors and pads installed. 

still hear noise from driver side front end:banghead::banghead: 

its not the wheel rubbing anymore. but still squellz


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

anextgli said:


> brakes are done.
> rotors and pads installed.
> 
> still hear noise from driver side front end:banghead::banghead:
> ...


 
If it's a humming, it could be tire tread noise. You could try swapping the tires from the front to the rear to see if the noise moves. 

If it's a grinding, rotating noise, and it's not the splashplate rubbing on the brake rotor, then there's a good chance that you need to replace the wheel bearing/s as I mentioned in my earlier post.


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## anextgli (Oct 5, 2005)

not wheels i dont think. 

noise is there on and off. hear is sometime. dont others. but notice that when im in traffic...on and off gas...i hear it when i get off the gas. 

if its bearing. that mean i gotta take everything off again to fix. 
easy job? special tools? anyway to be sure its bearings?


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

anextgli said:


> not wheels i dont think.
> 
> noise is there on and off. hear is sometime. dont others. but notice that when im in traffic...on and off gas...i hear it when i get off the gas.
> 
> ...


 Early, when the bearings are starting to go, you may not hear the noise all the time, or maybe only hear when turning corners. My left front wheel bearing was real bad, and it was getting real noisy. After I replaced it, I could immediately hear the right front wheel bearing, which is also about ready for replacement, but is not as noisy yet. 

As for tools, read my earlier response to your thread (post #11).


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## anextgli (Oct 5, 2005)

thanks again for help here man. 
think i can rent parts to do the job like i rented for the rest of work done. 
guess ill need to get the caliper press again. 
guess ill look now for a how to on the front bearings and source out parts. 
guessing thats what it is. not sure tho. 
woulda been nice to do it all one time. 
thanks again man


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