# how can i increase boost on my car?



## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

Honestly im a bit confused now reading here and there...

On boost valve site http://www.boostvalve.com/1.8.html tried doing this method car hits @ 13+ psi limp, tried diode mod but the diodes do not show the correct voltage..... I do not understand does the ecu control how much boost the car is making? (with the n75) :banghead:

Also with the overboost solution (http://www.boostvalve.com/overboost.html) would I be able to increase boost with that set up?

Would putting the boost controller after the n75 right before the wastegate do any good?


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

is there anyway i can boost my gti to @20psi on a k03? without chip...


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## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

NO you can't boost over 20psi.
even if you could, you would blow up your turbo.
even if you could, your turbo would only be blowing in hot air with no gain.
second you need a FMIC.
you NEED to get chipped, so you don't run into limp mode or overboost mode.
you have a tiny turbo.

lastly, you need to read the faq
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...uning-Modification-Assistance-Troubleshooting
read read read read!


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

I have a front mount, i will install it pretty soon.


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## GLI_jetta (Jan 3, 2006)

you need to get a chip, for $500 you can't beat it for the gain you get. Also, its not just about increasing boost.. the chip also increases timing and you also recive gains from that.


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

a diode and a boost controller work fine. less than $100 and you've got your 20psi.


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

which diode exactly because i tried both 4.7 and 4.3 and they dont seem to work =/ and where do i put mbc at before or after n75?


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

You want the 4.3 diode if you're stock as it'll clamp the map at 9-11psi or whatever it is.


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## surfinsk8r (Feb 8, 2010)

codergfx said:


> which diode exactly because i tried both 4.7 and 4.3 and they dont seem to work =/ and where do i put mbc at before or after n75?


personally i'd do a standalone boost controller....works WONDERFULLY for me.
in that case, just hook the lines going to n75 on to the mbc.
you only need two of the three lines, one is just an atmosphere line.


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

I tried that my car still throws an overboost code with a 4.3 v diode


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## VWJetta27 (Jan 30, 2009)

1.8Tjettta01 said:


> NO you can't boost over 20psi.
> even if you could, you would blow up your turbo.
> even if you could, your turbo would only be blowing in hot air with no gain.
> second you need a FMIC.
> ...


altight let me tear into this...
1. you can get over 20 psi on stock turbo and it WILL NOT BLOW UP you'll need to chip it for sure unless you can figure out how by crankin wg, diode and such but youre havin problems so i say chip.
2. you DO NOT NEED a fmic for the stock turbo a upgrade smic will be fine or stock if your not going crazy.
3.Yes you do have a tiny stock turbo

look into this ----> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2901711-My-Stock-turbo-tuning-guide&highlight=stock+guide


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## #0783 (Mar 23, 2007)

1.8Tjettta01 said:


> NO you can't boost over 20psi.
> even if you could, you would blow up your turbo.
> even if you could, your turbo would only be blowing in hot air with no gain.
> second you need a FMIC.
> ...


I love how this guys rattles off a bunch of BS then directs the guy to the FAQ. classic


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## buuuuu (Jan 13, 2010)

i wanna increase my boost... i make my own mech boost control equiped with A/C Selenoid... now i have 0.6bar boost in my stage 1 apr (idk how much psi for 0.6bar)..

can i increase to 1.0-1.3 bar with my stock K03S, stock SMIC...?? is it safe??


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

The tts are running 14ish psi or 16 can't remember with a sidemount but a k04


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## FTMFW (Jan 1, 2008)

Yes you can safely run 1.3 bar on the stock turbo and stock SMIC. Once you get up into that boost range though I would consider upgrading to the 4 bar fuel pressure regulator. My setup is currently spiking at about 1.6 bar and settles to 1.45 - safely.


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## Buschwick (Feb 12, 2007)

I hit about 18psi right now on the stock IC


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## chaveezy (Jan 31, 2010)

You can up the boost with a MBC or EBC, need to do the diode trick like already stated, but I'd suggest getting a chip man, seriously you don't want to go up'ing the boost without adjusting the fuel/timing tables, you'd benefit more from a chip and it'd be MUCH safer.

With more BOOST, you need more fuel, the stock setup isn't really designed to do that, that's why there is a limp mode in the first place. 

Do it right! :beer:


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## koccorey (Jun 15, 2010)

*More boost*

I have a split second turbo boost controller for sale if you don't want to spend a lot of money on a chip. This basically does the same thing but you can controll the boost from inside the car, it adjust the fuel and timing just like a chip also so it's safe. You can look it up at abdracing.com

I'm in socal by the way, give me a call or text if your interested.(310) 251-1318cell ask for Corey.


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## burkechrs1 (Dec 1, 2008)

Oh. My. God.

GTFO.

SEARCH!!!!!

This is the most basic of basic 1.8t knowledge.

Search or leave, don't ask questions like this. If you're gonna go cheap expect problems. Quit being cheap and chip your car. Period.


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## chaveezy (Jan 31, 2010)

burkechrs1 said:


> Oh. My. God.
> 
> GTFO.
> 
> ...


agreed! eace:


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:

Why do people think buying $40 woth of parts will get them the same gains as a proven software flash?

it's not all about boost.
Boost + Cooling + R/A Timing + Fuel = power , reliable power.
Boost with nothing else is hot air that the ecu isn't fully compensating for with the correct maps.

If your gonna do it, do it right the first time = Eurodyne


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## BoostAdict (Dec 5, 2010)

That's true.... to a point. I am running the 4.3 diode, and a mbc, and have been running 15 psi everyday for over a year. I have had the APR chip trial flash also and it hit 16 psi. Honestly, I see the same results with my set up as is. And it cost me $50.00. As apposed to $500. Now, if your planning to run 17+psi then I suggest a chip. But, for an everyday driver going from 10psi to 15psi is a huge improvement. No spittin, no sputtering, no limp mode.


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## BoostAdict (Dec 5, 2010)

Just saw your signature. If you an 03 GTI 20th Anniversary then the diode mod won't work and your only choice is to go with a chip.


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## simonjosVW (Feb 1, 2009)

soooo many poor choices to raise boost..

why are you shooting for 20psi? changing your n75 or adding diodes is like taking the long way around a chip... and in reality its doing the same thing as cranking your wastegate. and all that does is shorten the life of the turbo.


look, if your going to put money into your car, then PUT MONEY INTO YOUR CAR. go buy yourself an apr chip, and you'll most likely peak 18psi and still stay within the limits of your stock k03s.


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## simonjosVW (Feb 1, 2009)

BoostAdict said:


> That's true.... to a point. I am running the 4.3 diode, and a mbc, and have been running 15 psi everyday for over a year. I have had the APR chip trial flash also and it hit 16 psi. Honestly, I see the same results with my set up as is. And it cost me $50.00. As apposed to $500. Now, if your planning to run 17+psi then I suggest a chip. But, for an everyday driver going from 10psi to 15psi is a huge improvement. No spittin, no sputtering, no limp mode.


the difference is, the chip doesn't shorten the life of your turbo. it's a much better investment in the long run, plus it does more for your engine that just increase boost. diode mods are a nice quick inexpensive alternative, but.. you're not allowing the ecu to control your air/fuel mixtures as well as a chip does


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Don't buy APR get the trial from them first. Then try Revo. Personally I say just go for it and buy eurodyne but if it's a $$ issue atleast get UNItronic so if you decide to go BT or Bigger T you just have to upgrade for a nominal fee. APR is K03/K04 only (unless it's their stg3 kit). 

Do the trials. This makes all the difference. It's a very basic tune so the one you buy may be a little better.

Why not try Malone? They're the new guy's I'm sure they have good prices. Don't know about upgrades, but that's your bag.

It's best though to have a tuner near by. or run eurodyne.

.........Cheap software below.......
The first flash I ever had was a $150 speedtuning flash that was on the car, and it was comparable to the Uni or Giac software. It ran great, I just out grew it. I know people bash this company but a lot of people in my area use them and have great results.
You can't beat their price and they do have stages of tune for exhaust and bolt-ons.
Plus the company is actually an Austrian company who first made their tune in 2000, so they know what they're doing. (that's if you want to be cheap, I say the software us fun. But does come with it's issues...and that's lack of support, you get what you pay for)


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

DMVDUB said:


> :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:
> 
> Why do people think buying $40 woth of parts will get them the same gains as a proven software flash?
> 
> ...


dude let them buy the diode and put it in, get 15 psi and his car still be slow... i've all but stopped contributing to these threads.... even i forked out the money for a chip back in the day instead of installing the diodes. matter fact i still have the 4.3 and 4.7 diodes i never used


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Yeah.... I guess you're right. The SEARCH function would've solved this whole matter. I just don't know why someone would want to go cheap on their car. Buying stuff on sale is one thing, being cheap is another.
Diode in my opinion is to be used WITH software not by itself. 
I mean damn, since the MAP thinks it's only making 10psi (or whatev) it's only running fuel and timing for 11psi. Don't people get that? 
It's ( diode ) to keep spikes in SW from limping the car out not to eek out some less than nominal hp.


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

A turbo does not know the difference between a diode/mbc and a chip. period. The reason the diode works w/out screwing the car up majorly is because of the complexity of systems the car is using to monitor air coming in and out of the motor. The ecu will compensate. 

Years before there were big turbo chips people were running larger turbos on chipped programming, diodes and adjustable fuel pressure regulators. and that was before the lemmiwinks/unisettings stuff.


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

notice what you said... Adjustable FPR and stuff. 

F*** diode the car, crank the gate all the way down out a MBC set to 40psi, Blow the S**t up and come back asking why you have plumes of smoke coming from the exhaust and why you're car doesn't drive as well.
Since MBC's (if you've never used them) cause a SURGE of boost, on/off switch essentially. Using it in tandem with the N75 wont raise the boost a single psi. You have to run the MBC by itself with the diode. Have fun with that on a K03, trust me it sucks. 

If you want to go fast do it right. Hope you have VCOM.


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

Update: this thread is kinda out of date.

I bought eurodyne maestro 7, running stage 2 software, and all the supported mods, 3" dp to a 2.5" exhaust, spiking at 22 until like 5k rpm the letting off slowly to 12-13 by redline.

IMO was best thing to make the car fast. Don't regret buying the software.

Still running 4.7v diode tho because car gets thrown into softlimp :/ othe rthan that it's great!

Ps: I dis use the search function but couldn't find **** before. And yes I also got Vag com


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## kroutbrner (Nov 2, 2009)

DMVDUB said:


> Yeah.... I guess you're right. The SEARCH function would've solved this whole matter. I just don't know why someone would want to go cheap on their car. Buying stuff on sale is one thing, being cheap is another.
> Diode in my opinion is to be used WITH software not by itself.
> I mean damn, since the MAP thinks it's only making 10psi (or whatev) it's only running fuel and timing for 11psi. Don't people get that?
> It's ( diode ) to keep spikes in SW from limping the car out not to eek out some less than nominal hp.


First of all, you are right in saying that a good search would have yeilded the awnsers to the OP's questions.

The MAP may be reading a limited voltage and seeing an incorrect amount of boost, but the MAF, O2 and other sensors of the car are metering the incoming air and exhaust gasses. The factory software will compinsate even with a 4.3v diode installed. Adding a chip will adjust timing ect to yeild better gains, but the factory software will not run lean with a diode mod.

Just my $0.02.


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## Buschwick (Feb 12, 2007)

blah


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

DMVDUB said:


> notice what you said... Adjustable FPR and stuff.


More gibberish out of you as usual. I said "bigger turbos" required an adj FPR and that was a long time ago. Giac and APR were really the only two chip co's. The guy who left to go to Revo was still at APR back then. Lemmiwinks didn't exist to us. Upsolute was the best people had to use for a BT flash and it was a train wreck for the most part. a 28rs was a huge turbo.


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

Don't ya love flamevortex not directed at anyone in particular.


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## BoostAdict (Dec 5, 2010)

Hey Corey I'm interested


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