# 2.0T FSI Oil Pressure Switch Replacement (2007 Eos)



## n0bs (Jan 20, 2015)

Oil pressure warnings are scary, and should not be ignored. You can damage the engine if you don't head to the warning. If you've checked for low oil level and large leaks/broken oil pan, the next step is to check the oil pressure switch. The part can fail and cause a false warning. You will need to check the oil pressure using a mechanical gauge and replace the switch if you get pressures within spec.

_*I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR DAMAGE TO YOUR CAR IF YOU FOLLOW THIS GUIDE*_ This worked for me, but use common sense and be careful when doing automotive work.

You'll need the following tools:


Floor jack
Jack stands x2
Flathead Screwdriver
T25 torx bit
T27 torx bit
T30 torx bit
Handle for those bits
10mm socket
13mm socket
16mm deep socket or regular with extension
24mm deep socket
3/8" drive ratchet
1/2" drive ratchet
7mm combination wrench
Channel lock pliers or other tool to remove hose clamps
Container to catch coolant
Mechanical oil pressure guage
Socket for oil pressur guage adapter
Wrench for oil pressure guage hose
(opt)Additional jack stands x2
(opt)Air ratchet and compressor
(opt)


Jack up the car. Make sure to place the jack stands under the factory indicated lift points. It is much easier to work under the car if you jack up all four corners.

















I like to throw a wheel under each side in case of a jack stand failure.










Next you'll need to remove the metal belly pan underneath the car. There are 4 13mm bolts on each side (marked in red circles) and a few torx.









This only applies to the Eos as far as I know. Other cars will have a plastic belly pan with only torx.


You'll next want to remove some torx screws under the hood. The far left and far right screws are to remove the front later on. The lower screws marked are to remove the grille. Once those screws are removed, removing the grille by pressing the tabs (marked in orange squares) and lifting up and out.











The next screws hold in the front of the bumper valance. There are four screws.











On both sides of the bumper valence by the wheel well, there are 5 screws.

One under the car.









Two on the lower corner of where the wheel well meets the bumper valance.









And two above the previous two under the wheel well splash guard.









Pull the tab under the horizontal screw in the previous picture to release the bumper valance. Pull it gently away from the bumper. There should be two connections that you have to remove. The fog light connection is a regular snap connection. The indicator is removed from the bumper valance completely.


Next you'll want to remove the headlights. I forgot to take a picture with the valance off, but there should be three screws holding it in place. One is kind of hidden.










There's also a snap connection that you need to unplug to remove the headlights.


Remove the engine cover/air box. Disconnect the MAF sensor by pressing the tab and pulling it out. Then undo the two silver clips and remove the intake connection. The engine cover is held in by plastic buffers. Just pull firmly upwards from the front and then the back.











Next you need to disconnect the radiator connection on the driver's side. Place a container directly under the hose so you can collect the coolant.










Use the channel locks to move the hose clamp off of the connection.










Drain as much of the coolant into the into the container as you can. Then stuff both ends of the connection with paper towels to avoid drips. Remove the container of coolant to a place where it won't get knocked over.


Now you need to disconnect the lower left intercooler hose from the plastic intercooler pipe. It's easier to break the worm clamp free with the 7mm first and then use the screwdriver to finish loosening it.











Disconnect the radiator fan wires from the radiator fan assembly.











Disconnect the front left crash sensor. Make sure to do this with the battery unplugged. Do not connect the battery until the sensor is reconnected. You'll get an airbag fault if you don't follow this.











Unplug both the horns. OEM horns will have a regular connector. My horns are aftermarket hence the blade connections.











Remove the air temp sensor on the lower passenger side of the radiator. Just remove it from it's holder.











There are four 16mm bolts on each side holding the bumper to the frame rails. You'll want to use a deep socket to remove the top bolts. Remove all the bolts on the driver's side. Remove all but the lower right hand bolt on the passenger side. Loosen this bolt until the non-threaded part is flush with the hole. This will allow you to swing the bumper down on the driver side, while not stressing the connections on the passenger side.










Gently place the driver side end of the bumper on the ground. Zip tie it to the frame rail to make sure it does not lean forwards. The location of the oil pressure switch is marked by the yellow area.











This is what the sensor looks like once the connector is removed. The connector might be a bit hard to remove because of it's position. Be careful not to break it or the surrounding wires.











Use a 24mm deep socket to remove the sensor. Since 24mm sockets usually only come in 1/2" drive and you don't have room for an adater to 3/8", you'll want to use a 1/2" drive ratchet wrench to break it loose. Once loose, finish removing it by hand.











Use the removed sensor to find the corrector fitting for you pressure gauge. The sensor is M1.0x1 thread.











Take the adapter and start threading it in by hand. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CROSS THREAD IT. Finish tightening it with a ratchet and socket that fits the adapter.











Now thread the hose into the adapter. It might help to have someone turn the hose while you thread it in.











Now reassemble everything from part 7-14. Use the collected coolant to top up the reservoir. Have someone sit in the car so you can observe the gauge. At startup, the gauge should read about 4 bar. Watch for any coolant or oil leak in the connections you worked on. Let the car warm up to operating temp (190* F). At 190*F you should idle somewhere in the low to mid 2 bar range.










The real test is while revving it though. Factory manual states oil pressure should be between 2.7 and 4.5 bar at 2k RPM at 190*F.










If you are not getting pressure within that range, your problem is not a faulty oil pressure sensor. You have actual oil pressure problems.


Redo steps 7-14 to get back to the oil pressure switch hole. Remove the oil pressure gauge and its adapter. Compare the old switch to the new switch to make sure they match.










Re-assemble everything.


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## silver06passat (Dec 12, 2011)

*thanks for this DIY*

I know Im posting this long after you did this DIY...but thank you!...we are having oil pressure issues. okay at 2000rpm (a little low but within range) but pretty low at idle. wondering if its the "basic" synthetic blend the mechanic put in there temporarily or other more ominous oil pump issues....(157,000mi)



JP


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## GTIF (Jun 11, 2016)

*There's a much easier way...*

I respect your ability and thank you for putting these instructions online for others, but that's INSANE! You must like taking your car apart. 

I reached in from above the starter and got the main wiring harness out of the clip so I could move it out of the way. 

Then I used a right angle pick and popped the connector and pulled it out of the way and used a 15/16" deep socket, universal joint and 6" extension on my ratchet and broke it loose. 

Then with my fingertips, I spun the switch out. Holding the pressure gauge by the tube, I was able to align the threads and tightened it with an open end wrench. It took less than 15 minutes!

Assembly was just the reverse. Simple.


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