# Skool me 30V V6...



## G'D60 (Mar 11, 2002)

Fellas,

My girl just bought a 99 2.8 A4 a little while ago. I've started lurking on this forum a little bit and I've picked up some good info already. She was burning a little oil and a little ATF before the oil change and shes been golden since. 

What I'd like to know is a little more information about the 30V V6. 

Is it an actual V6? or is it like the VR6 with a 30V head?

With 30 Valves this thing should flow for days. Is it just like a 1.8T head design with 2 extra cyls?

If so why wouldn't there be alot of 30V Big Turbo builds? If that head can flow like a 1.8T I'd have to assume guys would wanna FI that motor and dump lots of boost in. Can't recall ever seeing a 30V V6T 

I recall hearing some smack talk about these motors back in the day. Can't remember what was said tho. What do you guys think of this motor? where are the weak spots? what should I keep my eye on? 

I did a little Google search and found a few things here and there. But I'd love to hear what you guys on the Tex think. 

Any info or links would be great. 

Thanks guys!


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## tryin2vw (Dec 30, 2006)

It is a true 90 degree V6 engine. It is the same block arrangement used for the 2.7L twin turbo engine.

How many miles are on the car? It needs a timing belt/water pump/idler roller/tensioner roller/etc change every 75-80K. 

The oil change is ~6.3 quarts. Change it regularly at 5000 miles and use synthetic 502 VW rated oil.

It also need spark plugs about every 40K, use the OEM plug only, no aftermarket plugs or you risk misfires.

Keep the PCV system clean, or oil leaks will occurr. 

Many an hour will be spent chasing the SAIP system OBD2 faults. Check the vacuum lines first.

Some people put superchargers on these engines, but that is a $3500 change. 

It is a very reliable engine when regular maintenance is done. Make sure there is a belly pan under the engine as the oil pan is low and thin aluminum.


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## G'D60 (Mar 11, 2002)

Thanks for the heads up Tryin2vw

The car has 230XXXKM on it. mostly highway. I was planning on changing some vac lines for peace of mind. I'll look at the PCV piping while i'm in there as well. 
Good to know about the OEM plugs as well. 

I'm familiar with the SAI on a VR6. Improper flow is the bane of my existance. I've read in other forms of guys deleting the SAI system and putting in a resistor to stop the CEL. has it/can it be done successfully on the 30V?


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## tryin2vw (Dec 30, 2006)

Just so you know, my car has 237k miles on it.


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

> If so why wouldn't there be alot of 30V Big Turbo builds?


For starters, you need pistons, two turbos, and an S4 ECU, so as expensive as the G2 kit is, it's still cheaper than going with a turbo setup. Cheaper still is to just trade it in for a 2.7T S4, which is why nobody bothers turbo-ing the 2.8.



> I recall hearing some smack talk about these motors back in the day. Can't remember what was said tho. What do you guys think of this motor? where are the weak spots? what should I keep my eye on?


The engine is pretty much bulletproof. As tryin' says, keep up with the scheduled maintenance, and check the PCV and vacuum lines. The front control arms, and super-expensive exhaust and cam chain tensioners are what would worry me.


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

I had 30V motor in my Passat..had car for 94K miles...here's list of issues:

Oil seeping from cam adjuster seal/gaskets( burning oil smell in car when right one dumps oil on exhaust)...replaced entire PCV system..3 parts..big hose assembly across top of motor, short hose under throttle body to crankcase vent from big hose assembly..and the "suction pump"..a "Y" shaped plastic gizmo that routes vaccum to PCV and brake booster...All these parts cost me about $125 when I did it some years back...and it took me about 3 hours since I chanaged all the little vaccum hoses (those suckers fool ya...covered with cloth braid..look OK...but when you touch em you find out the rubber under the cloth is cracking and leakin...that screws up the SAI system and also the intake manifold tuning...a vaccum accuated flap changes intake tract)...and I also cleaned the TB since you have to pull it loose (don't remove any hoses, just loosen it from mounting..and get a new rubber boot that goes between the TB and intake "horn" that runs along the back of motor..it cracks from engine heat)...Changin the PCV stuff stopped oil leaks for about 18 months..then the valve cover, and right cam seal let go..took car in for Power Train Warranty claim..they replaced cam adjsuters (rattling)..all seals and gaskets....and no more oil leaks!...If you do timing belt/water pump..make sure you get complete job (TB, tensioner, tensioner/idler roller, waterpump, thermostat, cam seals if they look shaky at all..and front snub motor mount (you have to pull front bumper into "service position" and changin this mount is super ez then...and it costs only $10 or so). I'd also change serp belt and the serp belt tensioner while things are apart. Other than these oil leak issues engine was rock solid for me! Wish I could say the same for the rest of the Passat..but suspension, motor mounts etc all needed replacement at very low mileage compared to other cars and other VW's I"ve owned over the years...:sly:


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## G'D60 (Mar 11, 2002)

Great info here guys thanks so much. I really like the smoothness of this motor. Can anyone tell me about Strut bearings, end links and bushings? Right now I can hear groans comming from the front when I move the cars weight around (ie starting from a stand still or moving in reverse to moving forward ect) Not sure if its strut bearings. an end link of some sorts. Also in the back i hear a squeek. Seems to be on passanger side. More noticeable when there is alot of fuel in it. Any bushings back there i can look at? 

ALSO. baby girl parked too close to a curb and started to pull her front clip off. Now the sides of the bumpber sag and i can't seem to "snap" it back on. Now there is an airbag light on to boot! I'm assuming it has something to do with the saggy bumper.

I've been able to find PDF versions of the Bently for my Corrado, MKII ect. anything like that for the A4 2.8? 

Thanks fellas!


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

These B5 platform cars have serious issues with front suspension wear...seem to lose control arm joints, bushings, and tie rod ends at very low mileage (mine crapped out at about 55K..but I've seen folks replacing front suspension parts in the 30K's!)....I'd just get a kit and replace everything at one time....ezier than doing 2 control arms today..2 in 6 months...then TRE..then more control arms...You replace whole front suspenion for about $500-600 and be done with it...and only have to do one alignment..car will handle and steer like new!:thumbup:.... 
Be sure and set up the control arms at "ride height" or you'll ruin bushings fast! I measured my ride height (centerline of axle to peak of fender lip)..then set up my suspension (without shocks springs) to that measurement and torqued all arm bushing bolts...this technique works for all suspension set ups..the one in the Bentley (where you measure top arms off the mounts..) only works for stock suspensions...On the top arms you have to tighten em up so they don't move..then remove the "top hat" mounts and do the final torque specs..no room to get torque wrench up there with parts on car.:thumbup: 
There are no "strut" bearings on this front suspension....just 8 control arms that seem to be overstressed since mine crapped out twice in 93K miles..installed second set at about 90K miles..then got new ride and sold my Passat...Oh well..at least the new owner is set for 40K miles or so!


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## Wheelin (Oct 25, 2010)

I just purchased a b5.5 with the 2.8l engine. I've heard, since it is chain drivin that it's not necessary to replace the timing belt?


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

Wheelin said:


> I just purchased a b5.5 with the 2.8l engine. I've heard, since it is chain drivin that it's not necessary to replace the timing belt?


Er... no, the timing belt is a belt, and therefore not a chain. Although the owner's manual says it lasts forever, I'm sure you can find stories of broken belts on this website. Most people change them at 60,000-75,000 mi intervals.


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## sillysod (Mar 26, 2007)

Hey fellow Calgarian,

I have VAG-COM so if you throw codes (and you will) just PM me and if you want to swing by my place I can scan it for you.

Super bulletproof motors -- but like any German motor -- you need to keep up on the maintenance or it will get away on you and become completely unreliable.


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## G'D60 (Mar 11, 2002)

Thanks SillySod. I have VAD mobile. very simlar to the VAGCOM cept its on my palm cell phone. The car seems to run fine. I'm just worried about the timing belt now. It has 234XXX KM on it and i have NO idea when the TB would have been replaced if at all. I have to assume it was done at least once but again i'm still a little warry.


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