# Very Loud Whistle, Noise When Off Throttle



## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

So this developed on Friday of last week, the car, when idle or off the throttle while create a super, super loud whistle, that's the best way to describe it. When you lay on the gas it goes completely away, but as you downshift and ease off it comes back. When sitting at a stoplight or just letting the car coast with a little bit of gas its the exact same.

I scanned the car and brought up these two engine faults, I'm not sure if they are associated with replacing the battery last weekend or not, not really sure to even look for this issue. Honestly, I'm trying to get the car buttoned up to a point where I can trade it in, I just don't have the time anymore to chase down the maintenance and issues, any help will result in beer for you :beer:

Address 01: Engine (CCT) Labels: 06J-906-026-CCT.clb
Part No SW: 8P0 907 115 Q HW: 8P0 907 115 Q
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0050 
Revision: AAH03--- Serial number: AUX7Z0H2FNB0V2
Coding: 0103010A1C070160
Shop #: WSC 00000 128 28888
VCID: 40855ED91398E29

2 Faults Found:
001674 - ECM Power Relay Load Circuit: (J271) 
P068A - 000 - De-Energized Performance Too Early - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 1048575 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2111.15.31
Time: 31:63:63

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Load: 0.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 33.0°C
Temperature: 36.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 960.0 mbar
Voltage: 10.287 V

000369 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1 
P0171 - 000 - System Too Lean - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 131379 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.09.25
Time: 13:00:14

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 835 /min
Load: 20.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 99.0°C
Temperature: 66.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 960.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.462 V

Readiness: 0000 0000


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

beckermanex said:


> So this developed on Friday of last week, the car, when idle or off the throttle while create a super, super loud whistle, that's the best way to describe it. When you lay on the gas it goes completely away, but as you downshift and ease off it comes back. When sitting at a stoplight or just letting the car coast with a little bit of gas its the exact same.
> 
> I scanned the car and brought up these two engine faults, I'm not sure if they are associated with replacing the battery last weekend or not, not really sure to even look for this issue. Honestly, I'm trying to get the car buttoned up to a point where I can trade it in, I just don't have the time anymore to chase down the maintenance and issues, any help will result in beer for you :beer:
> 
> ...


Interesting.


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## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

BeeAlk said:


> Interesting.


This is how we roll in the future.


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

beckermanex said:


> This is how we roll in the future.


OMG! Looks like we have a time traveler restoring an ancient A3!

Probably a vacuum leak. locating a loud one at idle should be easy. Stick an empty paper towel holder up to your ear and point it around the engine to help isolate the location. That is, if you still have trees to make paper towels in the future.


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## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

MisterJJ said:


> OMG! Looks like we have a time traveler restoring an ancient A3!
> 
> Probably a vacuum leak. locating a loud one at idle should be easy. Stick an empty paper towel holder up to your ear and point it around the engine to help isolate the location. That is, if you still have trees to make paper towels in the future.


Things are pretty awesome in the future, but you really screwed it up for a few years with that Trump as President thing...

Anyway, on my ancient A3, is there a particular location where a vacuum leak would be most common? Should I be looking at a hose, a fitting, valve, connection, etc? I've tried to isolate, it appears to be coming from the left side (passenger side) facing the car, but its really hard to isolate.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

beckermanex said:


> Things are pretty awesome in the future, but you really screwed it up for a few years with that Trump as President thing...
> 
> Anyway, on my ancient A3, is there a particular location where a vacuum leak would be most common? *Should I be looking at a hose, a fitting, valve, connection, etc?* I've tried to isolate, it appears to be coming from the left side (passenger side) facing the car, but its really hard to isolate.


Yes. It could literally be any of those things, none being more likely than the other in reality.


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## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

BeeAlk said:


> Yes. It could literally be any of those things, none being more likely than the other in reality.


So, stupid question, but, where is the turbo located relative to the engine itself and is that where I should start?


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

beckermanex said:


> So, stupid question, but, where is the turbo located relative to the engine itself and is that where I should start?


It's basically behind it to the left, if you are standing with the 4 rings in the grill next to your balls looking at the engine. The intake piping feeds right into the top of the turbo. I wouldn't start there for a vacuum leak. Look at the intake piping, and any of the other tiny vacuum hoses running around. The old school way to find a vacuum leak is to leave the engine idling and you can have an open can of carburetor cleaner (B12 chemtool) and move it around the engine bay paying attention for an increase in idle. If you notice one, look closely in that area until you discover the leak.


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## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

TBomb said:


> It's basically behind it to the left, if you are standing with the 4 rings in the grill next to your balls looking at the engine. The intake piping feeds right into the top of the turbo. I wouldn't start there for a vacuum leak. Look at the intake piping, and any of the other tiny vacuum hoses running around. The old school way to find a vacuum leak is to leave the engine idling and you can have an open can of carburetor cleaner (B12 chemtool) and move it around the engine bay paying attention for an increase in idle. If you notice one, look closely in that area until you discover the leak.


The B12 chemtool is an aerosol, so spray it near (or on) the lines to see if it screws up the mixture?


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

beckermanex said:


> The B12 chemtool is an aerosol, so spray it near (or on) the lines to see if it screws up the mixture?


Ehh, you used to be able to get it in a non-aerosol can back in the day...not sure if you still can...if not, just spray some into the cap and wave the cap around. That stuff is really flammable so be careful, and definitely don't go spraying it in your engine bay.

Alternatively, a much safer method would be to pressurize the intake path with ~10PSI of air, and you can listen for leaks or use a soapy water solution in a spray bottle to try and find any leaks. I might suggest that first.


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## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

TBomb said:


> Ehh, you used to be able to get it in a non-aerosol can back in the day...not sure if you still can...if not, just spray some into the cap and wave the cap around. That stuff is really flammable so be careful, and definitely don't go spraying it in your engine bay.
> 
> Alternatively, a much safer method would be to pressurize the intake path with ~10PSI of air, and you can listen for leaks or use a soapy water solution in a spray bottle to try and find any leaks. I might suggest that first.


Soapy water is probably for the best, I'd find some way to blow myself up in any other way  How do I ID intake vs. output piping? Is there any clear picture/definition I can reference?


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## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

The symptoms you describe and the lean fuel trim code P0171 points to the crankcase pressure regulating valve/breather valve being faulty. While the engine idles, preferably when it's making the noise, try to remove the oil fill cap. If it's a massive struggle to remove, then the breather valve is leaking internally/externally. If you have the belt drive BPY engine, there's an extended warranty on those valves. So if your car is still young enough and has low enough miles, then its replacement might be free at an Audi dealer. What's your VIN and mileage? If it's the newer chain drive engine, you'll have to buy the valve if you don't have any kind of warranty.

The P068A is probably caused by a worn out ECM power supply relay J271. If it isn't causing problems now it will be in the near future. There could be electrical problems in the wiring circuts for that relay, the ECM could be going bad or the battery is dying. But a failing relay is the most probable cause. Have your vehicle battery checked first before throwing a relay at it.


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## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

Audi_Mechanic said:


> The symptoms you describe and the lean fuel trim code P0171 points to the crankcase pressure regulating valve/breather valve being faulty. While the engine idles, preferably when it's making the noise, try to remove the oil fill cap. If it's a massive struggle to remove, then the breather valve is leaking internally/externally. If you have the belt drive BPY engine, there's an extended warranty on those valves. So if your car is still young enough and has low enough miles, then its replacement might be free at an Audi dealer. What's your VIN and mileage? If it's the newer chain drive engine, you'll have to buy the valve if you don't have any kind of warranty.
> 
> The P068A is probably caused by a worn out ECM power supply relay J271. If it isn't causing problems now it will be in the near future. There could be electrical problems in the wiring circuts for that relay, the ECM could be going bad or the battery is dying. But a failing relay is the most probable cause. Have your vehicle battery checked first before throwing a relay at it.


I'll give the oil cap thing a try, the engine makes the noise pretty much all the time when idle except for the first 2-3 minutes after a cold start in the morning. I have the chain driven engine as I just had my water pump replaced a few months ago (one of the many, many issues with the car). My VIN: WAUNF78PX8A174711 Mileage: 131390km/81641miles so I don't think it's young enough for much of anything.

I just put a new battery in the car last weekend so I'm 100% positive its not the battery for the second error, I did have the battery completely drain over a long weekend of not using the car last weekend. Like I said, nothing but problems over the last few months, I'm think it may be time to get out before I get hit with something truly bad. 

I'll give the oil cap a try and see if that narrows the problem down.

Thanks for your help.

[EDIT] Tried the oil cap suggestion, I was able to unscrew it, but there's some massive suction if you try to pick it up off the top of the engine after unscrewed. Could that be the valve you spoke of?


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## tfizzle (Jun 26, 2009)

Audi_Mechanic said:


> The symptoms you describe and the lean fuel trim code P0171 points to the crankcase pressure regulating valve/breather valve being faulty. While the engine idles, preferably when it's making the noise, try to remove the oil fill cap. If it's a massive struggle to remove, then the breather valve is leaking internally/externally.* If you have the belt drive BPY engine, there's an extended warranty on those valves. So if your car is still young enough and has low enough miles, then its replacement might be free at an Audi dealer. What's your VIN and mileage?* If it's the newer chain drive engine, you'll have to buy the valve if you don't have any kind of warranty.
> 
> The P068A is probably caused by a worn out ECM power supply relay J271. If it isn't causing problems now it will be in the near future. There could be electrical problems in the wiring circuts for that relay, the ECM could be going bad or the battery is dying. But a failing relay is the most probable cause. Have your vehicle battery checked first before throwing a relay at it.


I have a 2008 with 55xxx miles on it. curious if the warranty covers this if so I might as well milk Audi/VW so I wont have to eat the cost later myself, right?


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## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

Does anything connect to this (where my finger is pointing). I also removed the engine cover, that black thing near the coilpacks is the thing we're talking about right?


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## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

Nothing attaches to that nipple in this market. 

You have the chain drive CCT/CBF engine. Here's how to diagnose the most common failure with that valve:



I don't know how to post the video but click it and it should play in a new window. The diaphragm usually ruptures and it sucks in air through its weep hole, which is what my finger plugs in the video.


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## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

Audi_Mechanic said:


> Nothing attaches to that nipple in this market.
> 
> You have the chain drive CCT/CBF engine. Here's how to diagnose the most common failure with that valve:
> 
> ...


So if it "sucks" through that little hole on the disc portion then this is my issue, just want to confirm that. I'll give it a try and let you know, thanks for your help man, I'll update in the morning. My "whistle" appears to be much louder than yours, don't know if that matters or not.


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## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

That was a video of a customer's A4. So yeah, if it sucks in air through that small hole the valve is no bueno. Again, if you have to sruggle to get the oil fill cap off while it idles the valve is probably bad. If the whistling noise is still being made but weakens and dies out when you shut the engine off, then the valve is probably bad.


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## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

Audi_Mechanic said:


> That was a video of a customer's A4. So yeah, if it sucks in air through that small hole the valve is no bueno. Again, if you have to sruggle to get the oil fill cap off while it idles the valve is probably bad. If the whistling noise is still being made but weakens and dies out when you shut the engine off, then the valve is probably bad.


So after testing it this morning, it is sucking through that little hole in your video on the disc portion of the valve. I'm assuming the valve is bad then and should be replaced based on everything you've told me?


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## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

Yes.


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## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

So this saga has ended and it was exactly as everyone suggested, the PCV failed, after much searching, locally and online, I decided to go with OEM from the dealership to get the work done ASAP (did replace it myself though). I'm buttoning everything up to possibly trade her in this weekend so I didn't want to prolong the fix too long. Besides, the noise was so loud all people do is stare at you 

Anyway, if anyone in the future finds this thread, just be sure you get the right part, for the right engine, there are many different parts and revisions, the one for the TFSI will be the most expensive one :banghead:


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

beckermanex said:


> Anyway, if anyone in the future finds this thread, just be sure you get the right part, for the right engine, there are many different parts and revisions, the one for the TFSI will be the most expensive one :banghead:


I've gotten a "discount" on dealer parts by going to a VW dealer and pretending I have a GTI. Same part, but without the Audi markup. :thumbdown:


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

After all this and not one mention of whistle tips? 


Wooo Woooo... I am so disappoint.


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## beckermanex (Jan 25, 2011)

MisterJJ said:


> I've gotten a "discount" on dealer parts by going to a VW dealer and pretending I have a GTI. Same part, but without the Audi markup. :thumbdown:


Surprisingly the Audi dealership had it marked down $100 cheaper than the VW dealership, but only one had it in stock, guess which one


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

beckermanex said:


> Things are pretty awesome in the future, but you really screwed it up for a few years with that Trump as President thing...


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