# 2002 Eurovan VR6-24V, removing intake manifold nightmare



## harpua (Sep 28, 2010)

Replacing fuel injector o-ring seals to eliminate a gas leak from one of the injector seals or fuel rail (won't know for sure till I get it apart). In the process of removing the intake manifold, I'm following the Bentley procedures and it seems to me they omit some serious required steps.

1.) My EV with AC has the alternator jammed almost right up against the right side of the intake manifold and it blocks access to the bolts there, so alternator must come out. This in itself isn't huge but it isn't noted as a required step in the Bentley
2.) With everything disconnected I cannot actually lift out the manifold. It needs to come forward to clear the top of the head, but it can't come forward as it hits the radiator fan assembly. Looks to me like engine cooling and AC radiators needs to come out, again though this isn't in the Bentley procedure. This looks to be a pain in the arse and may even require disconnecting AC hoses and losing the refrigerant charge (then $200 to recharge once I'm all done)

Does anyone have experience pulling the intake manifold on this vintage Eurovan? How about from a golf or jetta, will the manifold clear the radiator when you try to lift (Eurovan engine sits tilted forward at a steep angle to fit in the short hood space). Must radiator come fully out as I suspect? (with carrier loosened and upper and lower grill completely removed you can tilt the radiator forward but not enough to allow the manifold to clearl). Very frustrating to find so much extra work required.

Maybe there is a secret? Any help appreciated!

Thanks


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## apstguy (Apr 3, 2006)

Please keep in mind I have NO idea about Eurovans, but MkIVs require the bumper cover to be taken off and "the lock carrier put into service position". The front bumper core support is held on by four bolts and is designed to slide forward several inches. It then stops on a safety wire. If you need more clearance, you can unhook the wire and remove the front (with a/c core, radiator, and fans attached). Both require the radiator hoses be removed, but the a/c lines can be left on. It would surprise me if VW DIDN'T do the same thing for the Eurovan, considering it is a tighter engine bay.

Link to the MkIV service position: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2368291

Hope that helps!


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## Motodisiac (Dec 2, 2008)

Just went through intake removal procedure on my 03 EV. Yes, you must remove fans to slide the intake out. Take the generator off and move it out of the way (no need to disconnect) What a pain in the ass just to get the valve cover removed.


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

On the Golf, the Alt doesn't need to be taken out..it is in the way, but you can use a ball-tipped allen at an angle to reach the bolt.

Also, the intake manifold doesn't come straight off.. it needs to be slid sideways a bit first.

Where are you located? Would be fun to wrench on that van just to learn the differences. :beer:


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## harpua (Sep 28, 2010)

I eventually got the manifold off by removing the alternator as motodisiac noted and then also removing the lower grill, unbolting the power steering cooler line and the AC condensor which allow moving them out the way just enough to get the radiator to pop out of its lower holder and come forward a couple inches. Didn't have to loosen and hose connections but still a PITA just to gain some clearance. Even then, pulling up the manifold encountered a bit of interference from the fans but with a strong tug it came out.....getting back in will likely be a challenge. 

Getting injectors out was a huge PITA. The Eurovan motor is angled forward maybe 30deg. so the injectors are hard to get a from above and from below too. Your hand is therefore in an awkward position and it's tough to grab the injectors with any strength so lots of slow wiggling until they come out. Got them cleaned and the before after report showed a few were blocked up a bit (more than 4% difference between best and worst flow rate). After cleaning all are virtually identical. 

Went to install the injectors last night, ughh, another PITA task due to inaccessibility. How do you know when they are installed far enough? Some seamed to go in farther than others and now when I try to put the fuel rail on I find the ones that went furthest in don't even contact the fuel rail while the farthest out ones are mostly seated into the fuel rail. Should I try to push the sticking out ones in? Or pull the farthest inserted ones out a bit? Can they go in too far? Will tightening the fuel rail bolts "pull" any that stick out to far in? I'm guessing not based on how hard it is to push each injector into place. 

I've wrenched a fair amount on lots of different vw/audi's and I'm used to VW not always doing things the easiest way......but yikes, this Eurovan is a nightmare. No wonder anytime I've checked with local garages (even the foreign and german car specialists) about doing some work on it they always say "oh, Eurovan, no we don't work on those"


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

Did the injectors 'look' clogged at all? 

Where did you get them cleaned at and how much did it cost?


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## harpua (Sep 28, 2010)

cleaned at injector-doctor or injector-medic or something like that. Side business of a mazda specialist in South Jersey. Came to $18/injector or so and included new orings and they also changed the screens. I couldn't see anything obviously wrong with the injectors, but after cleaning they do flow slightly more based upon the before/after test data......just a few percent difference but much better balance between them. 

looking like it is in fact possible to install an injector too far based upon the way the fuel rail fits and the gap that must line up for the injector to fuel rail clip to fit. So loosening the rail up a bit and I'll need to wiggle each injector in/out until I get the right fit to the rail, then I'll tigthen up all the rail bolts and should be left with the proper fit.


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## 2.0Tjetta (Apr 26, 2002)

*Fuel*

I know this an old thred but I have had my 2000 Eurovan torn apart and put back together 3x in the past 2 weeks for injectors. It is much easier to take the radiator all the way out to remove the intake. As for the alternator just make sure the corner bolt is in the manifold and you will be able to tighten it with no problems when you reinstall it. After taking it apart 3x about to be a 4th I gotta the disassemble and assembly down to a science. About 3 hrs. As for making sure the injectors don't leak. That's another story. First time was a dead injector. 2nd time injector leaking. 3rd time fuel gushing from the rail. Wtf. New o rings on everything but just does not want to seal. Also the electrical connector broke off on my second attemp at fixing the problem. That was another $150. Is there a special trick to get them to seat or lock in. It just seems like the fuel rail doesn't level out to the intake right. Like the angle of the injectors is not right when the 2 halves go back together. Also that only 2 bolts hold it together on each side with nothing bolted in the middle. Any ideas?


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