# Even after the Silicone replacement, STILL the P1136! Part number advice please?



## spydox (Apr 4, 2013)

The Silicone conversion is still underway on my '01 225 AMU Quattro.Cleaning up nicely:










Actually DROVE her today for the first time in 4 months 


P1136 still though, after all these replacements and replaced the $70 "Y" under the manifold and the EGR valve. Found this dodgy looking part today after more visual inspection:











I assume this is some sort of checkvalve? It connects to the turbo housing, so I ALSO assume its important. If you have suitable replacement part numbers, or if I can get this from AUTO ZONE as a generic please advise! 

this looks similar:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-Audi-V...es&fits=Make:Audi&hash=item5648eec4d8&vxp=mtr


Merry Christmas almost. :beer:


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Did you reset your ECU after you replaced all of this? If not, then I don't think you're going to get rid of the code.


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

warranty225cpe said:


> Did you reset your ECU after you replaced all of this? If not, then I don't think you're going to get rid of the code.


The code for long term fuel trim will be corrected whenever the problem is resolved. Since the ECU is always monitoring.. when you have fixed the issue.. the ECU will then be injecting too much fuel for the amount of O2 which creates a rich condition. As soon as the ECU understands you are too rich it will then start adapting by reducing the amount of injected fuel and code will resolve.


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

spydox said:


> The Silicone conversion is still underway on my '01 225 AMU Quattro.Cleaning up nicely:
> 
> I assume this is some sort of checkvalve? It connects to the turbo housing, so I ALSO assume its important. If you have suitable replacement part numbers, or if I can get this from AUTO ZONE as a generic please advise!
> 
> Merry Christmas almost. :beer:


You are right on the valve (one way check valve).. and any replacement that fits should do just fine as it really is just making sure air flows only one direction. No need to overpay for an OEM part and if this is failing then you could be sucking in unmetered air into the intake creating a lean condition.

Do you have a boost gauge installed, and if so what is your vacuum reading at idle and what does it read with your foot off the gas coasting down the road?


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## spydox (Apr 4, 2013)

*Thanks guys*

Yes I did reset the codes with VAG COM, but the P1136 returned within 10 miles.

I went to the dealer to just see about getting the part. What an adventure that was..

After bringing in the broken part, printing diagrams, and showing the sales person phone images of the part, she wasn't able to locate it in her system. She had a tech come out and he had no idea either. They said the checkvalve should have been built into the line and not a separate component connected by hoses, but it LOOKS original to me.

She got so frustrated, she started opening parts drawers and slamming them shut, looking for a similar part! She offered me a *close* checkvalve (a *Y*) for $59. I declined. The one I got on EBAY was like $5.90. 

Make's ya wonder- is there some *Baron Von-Audi* sitting over there in a Castle in Germany with the 99% profit they're making on parts!? I can see maybe 4 times cost, with importing and all, but Audi dealer prices are off-the-chart insanity.

I tried DAP and Autozone too- no joy there. They had a tiny lawn-mower sized checkvalve was all they could locate.

Anyhow I hope my EBAY checkvalve is here soon I wanna drive!

Merry Christmas all! :heart:


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## spydox (Apr 4, 2013)

*Thanks for the tips guys, so far so good...*

Cleared the code and installed the new $5 checkvalve. Testdrove 2x - so far so good.. Please no more P11136!











as a reference for future checkvalue replacements, here is the part I used : 

Vacuum Air Pump Check Valve # 058 905 291 K

The listing also said : It is a direct replacement for 058905291 and 058905291K


At the time, the dealer price was a about $60 , this part was about $5.


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

spydox said:


> Cleared the code and installed the new $5 checkvalve. Testdrove 2x - so far so good.. Please no more P11136!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice work, and glad you were able to avoid a ridiculous markup on a very simple component. Best of luck the problem has been resolved :beer:


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Was thinking about this today. Did you know that you could have taken one of the check valves out of your brake booster line? There are 2 in there, and you only need one.


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## lucpost (Dec 19, 2011)

Correct me if I'm wrong, but can't you just blow through the check valve to make sure air is flowing the way the arrow points to find out if it's bad?


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

Yup. You can usually try blowing, and if that doesn't work, try sucking. No need to put both ends in your mouth. His was so badly damaged, though, I wouldn't have even bothered to test it.


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## Aaron16V1.8l (Aug 12, 2007)

Would you mind posting up where you got the check valve from? Mine looks just as crusty and I should probably replace it.


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## hunTTsvegas (Aug 27, 2012)

spydox said:


> The Silicone conversion is still underway on my '01 225 AMU Quattro.Cleaning up nicely:
> 
> 
> 
> ...





Aaron16V1.8l said:


> Would you mind posting up where you got the check valve from? Mine looks just as crusty and I should probably replace it.


If this isn't it (I can't access ebay on my work computer to verify) then he lists the part number: 058 905 291K. Google search of that will probably bring up all sorts of places wanting to sell you that part. Best of luck! :thumbup:


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## lucpost (Dec 19, 2011)

I've had the same code since I got my car. I went through everything vacuum/boost related (all vacuum and Pcv hosing, check valves). But I can't find anything. It's weird, I'll clear the code sometimes it will come back in 15 miles and then sometimes 70 miles. Only things I haven't replaced are the things that aren't eye noticeable leaks. TIP and Diverter valve, possible subjects ?


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## spydox (Apr 4, 2013)

*I'm no expert..*

.. but after my experience with the dreaded P1136, I know a lot more about the TT vacuum system. After clearing the code I've put on about 300 code-free miles yay! 

After 100K miles. the plastic TEE's, Y's, other plastic nipples were almost all shot. They're brittle and easily broken.

The hoses would snap apart in my hand. Also the hose routing is a nightmare (like routing the brake vacuum from the left-front of the motor all the way back to the right-rear with like 6 hose conversions along the way).. and that birdsnest of hoses above the coil packs- I tried to avoid that nightmare.

Given all the stories I've heard from other car owners (I'm sure you've heard them- all I changed on my Camry was oil and brakes and wipers and bulbs in 230,000 miles!) it's a bit frustrating to deal with this magnitude of system collapse after 100K miles. My theory, as an engineer, if that there is more heat in the TT compartment, hoses are not optimally routed or connected, and not the best materials were used (metal TEES would have lasted forever, as opposed to plastic, for example). And don't get me started on the OEM hoseclamps!


********************************************************************

Anyhow I'm not sure what you've already done, but having successfully fixed my code, here are some recommendations. This is basically what I did to fix mine:

1. get Silicone hoses. 8mm and 3.5mm are good starters. I found a whole *kit* on EBAY for about $40. I recommend blue or red so you know what you've already replaced. Silicone has excellent durability and heat-resistance.

2. get lots of conventional hoseclamps *the plyer-squeeze type* and the 1/4 or 5/16 nut type.

2. remove the *tray* that holds down the oil dipstick receptacle. There are 2 allen screws holding it and a hose keeper on the left to remove. Pull it UP to remove- take care of the dipstick receptacle. Move it carefully to the right. If you remove the hoses and wires on that attached selenoid-valve, you can take the whole tray out.

3. There is a mini-birdsnest of hoses and plastic piping under the intake manifold. You can get an idea of what's under with with a brite lite. Shine it down thru the manifold. There are 2 Y-connectors, and several 3.5mm hoses. I priced out the dealer cost of the whole assembly - looks like over $500 in parts! I didn't go that route.

4. If you have 100K like me, chances are those plastic-pipe connectors are brittle and cracked. Metal would have been a better choice.

5. remove the whole under-manifold assemply. Start with the hoses connected to the manifold with metal nipples. Gently rock the hose back and forth on the metal nipples and they should slide off without removing the clamp. They are the easiest to remove. There is one on the left of the engine (facing the car). It looks like an "E". Rock and pull it towards the grille, and the center arm will release without removing the clamp. Then you can remove the clamps on the "E" and remove the whole left side of the assembly. There are many tips here on removing these clamps. I use plyers to gently twist and separate. Plastic nipples easily break with this method however. But in this case the E had metal inserts.

6. The other end of this assembly is under the manifold- a metal nipple pointing straight down about mid way between Cyl 2 and 3. reach under and rock and pull down to remove it.

7. Finally there is a Y hose that runs off to the right side of the engine carefully remove it from the Y. I didnt replace that hose- I slipped it off the Y with the clamp intact. Locking Forceps are useful to reach down between the manifold * to hold TEEs and hoses.

8. Now take out the whole TEE/Pipe assembly. The plastic pipes are likely cracked on the ends. In my case on the tees had fallen apart ( a $60 part from ECS but I see them on EBAY for about $25). Take the assembly to the bench and rebuild it. There are *U* pipe sections which are too severe an angle for Silicone. I used a combination of clamps and electrical tape and new parts and Silicone hose and zip ties to get it all airtite. You can test the assembly - blow in one end and check for leaks. The TEES are also checkvalves so air only goes one way. If its all brittle and cracked as mine was, a complete replacement is the best option if you can do it economically. I didn't find a good source for the pipes, and replaced the straight or 90's with Silicone. Remember- avoid sharp angles with Silicone - you don't want it to collapse. 

Once this is all rebuilt, set it aside.

9. now that this is out, there is room under the manifold to replace the 3.5mm hoses. 2 run off to components on the right engine side, and 2 run up to the birdsnest above the coil packs. Replace these one at a time, mindful of routing. Plastic nipples wont stand up to much twisting so try to pull hoses straight off. I ended up breaking a TEE in the birdsnest and the EGR seleniod too. 

10. Where hoses touched metal, I added that corrugated tubing around the hose to protect them. Advance Auto has it. Replace hose clamps as needed with conventional ones.

11. Once the 3.5mm are replaced you can add the TEE assembly back in. Carefully move it into place and reattach the 2 manifold hoses and the Y hose on the right. You'll find forceps, a brite light, and a 1/4in nut-type clamp are your friend here!

12. The TOP hose on the E on the left side is really just a hose keeper. I routed that hose away from the E, under the tray which made the angle much less severe.

13. The brake vacuum line runs just to the right of the radiator overflow container, up to an L on the firewall. Mine was cracked at the firewall. I replaced it with 8mm silicone. Note that this and other hoses are inserted into a larger hose then clamped. You need to put a nipple into the interior hose before you clamp to prevent collapse, and to get a good seal. I cut straight metal hose connectors in half with a grinder, and inserted the 1/2 into the interior hose, then clamped them. Audi also uses metal inserts you can reuse those.

14. Once done, be sure all hoses are connected and in their keepers. Double and triple check connections to be sure everything is connected and secure. 

15. There are a few other hoses to consider replacement. The one that runs from the right side of the turbo pipe near the battery runs into a checkvalve. My checkvalve was swiss cheese. The dealer has these for about $60, or buy one on EBAY for $6. Use 8mm hose. Both the hoses on the checkvalve can be replaced with Silicone. The checkvalve is easily removed and checked by blowing into it. Its a likely point of failure.

As for others, many hoses are pre-formed and not good candidates for Silicone replacements since the angles are severe.


Hope you find some of my experience helpful. Remember you need vacuum to have BRAKES so its important to get hoses secured, protected, and sealed!


HAPPY NEW YEAR!





* I think removing the manifold would be the mechanics' choice, but I found its possible to accomplish with the manifold in place


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## lucpost (Dec 19, 2011)

Thanks for that write up, I'm sure that would help lot of people who have leaks in the hosing. But I already replaced all that, which is why I'm stumped. I've double, triple checked everything and see nothing. I'll have to go over everything again just to be 110% sure, but I'm thinking it has to be somewhere else


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

Did you replace your brake booster lines? The first time I got P1136 it was a hard plastic line that went to the firewall from the motor and met a barbed 90 degree bend at the firewall, eventually leading to the brake booster. The hard OEM line had a bunch of cracks where it met the barbed bend. I got it to stop leaking by wrapping it with tape and putting a hose clamp over it; no problems since (until that line cracks again, that is).


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## lucpost (Dec 19, 2011)

yes, mine was cracked directly off the booster and right by the 90* turn on the pass side.


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## spydox (Apr 4, 2013)

*Poor mans fog-test*



lucpost said:


> yes, mine was cracked directly off the booster and right by the 90* turn on the pass side.


I saw a YOUTUBE vid that suggested blowing cigar smoke into the compartment to look for swirls. That might work. Fog machines are pretty cheap, and with electric fans and covered belts, there shouldnt be a lot of turbulence under the hood. I'd fog the whole area. 

Also a leak on the intake can cause an 1136. As Im sure you know the 1136 is an indication that air is entering the system that isn't measured at the MAF. I'm not sure but it seems like even a leaky oil cap could cause that?

I assume you checked or replaced the MAF? I replaced mine first to be sure I had a good one in place. Amazon $80.

Happy 2014!


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## lucpost (Dec 19, 2011)

Yep replaced that too (Maf). I pressured leaked the system, couldn't find anything


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## NotAVeTTe (Jan 2, 2014)

*BFI*

I'm relatively new to the Audi world (bought mine March '13) and brand new to posting on VWVortex, but have been on again/off again with this P1136. I too, am at wits end. My replacements haven't been as extensive as my research, but I've given up. I have an appointment with Black Forest Industries on the 20th. I'll post on here what comes of this endeavor, and the ungodly cost I'm anticipating. In other news, my wife's 2004 JCW Mini has been a blast :laugh:


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

There was a Y-shaped rubber tube that sat on top of the valve cover that I had to replace last year. The leak wasn't obvious until I had it in my hands, and I saw that it was cracked on the side resting on the valve cover. I couldn't find a rubber Y-joint like it, so I got an assortment of plastic ones and used rubber hose to recreate it. I made a thread about it when it happened, but that was a year ago.

Edit: Here's what I'm talking about:

vacuum leak at Y-tube atop valve cover


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## lucpost (Dec 19, 2011)

N249 has been deleted already, So it's not that.


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

Have any of you gents checked or replaced your suction jet pump? I too was having issues with long term lean condition, and like most had the intake smoked and went over all my connections many many times... After replacing everything but the suction pump, I finally bit the bullet an ordered a replacement. When I pulled my old one, you can see even the small amount of pressure I could create with my mouth compromised the seal..






Fuel trims have been acceptable ever since, and I'm seeing almost 4 more inches of vacuum under full deceleration (24 in). 

For those that have boost gauges installed, what your vacuum readings under full deceleration on the highway?


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## lucpost (Dec 19, 2011)

Replaced suction pump when I did the Pcv hosing. I have a boost gauge. I'll have to check vacuum. I know I peak boost at 14-15 and hold 11-12psi. Stock ecu


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

Has anyone ever DIYed a vacuum leak tester? I imagine it would involve capping off certain parts of our rat's nest of vacuum lines, but since a vacuum leak is really what we're looking for, shouldn't we use vacuum (lower pressure than atmosphere) to find it?

Boost gauge with a stock tune? There are a few different ways to route a boost gauge; if your leak winds up there, I'll send you a bottle of Dinosaur BBQ sauce.


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## lucpost (Dec 19, 2011)

Yeah I'm not really sure. I pressure tested it through the tip orginally and that's how I found what i did find. Couldn't find anything else and still have the code. My boost gauge is tapped into my fpr hosing and it's not from that because i had the code before I installed it. And I did everything legit with brass tee, barbs, and fittings.


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## spydox (Apr 4, 2013)

*Interesting....*



warranty225cpe said:


> Was thinking about this today. Did you know that you could have taken one of the check valves out of your brake booster line? There are 2 in there, and you only need one.


I'll check that out. I didn't know there were 2. Both under the intake I presume?

BTW, my P1136 stayed gone for about 1100 miles , then returned. Except this time, VAG reported it as

Lean Bank 01, intermittent

So although not fixed, it much better (it used to just say Lean Bank 01, and came on in 20 miles or less!


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## spydox (Apr 4, 2013)

*very good idea*



Boulderhead said:


> Have any of you gents checked or replaced your suction jet pump? I too was having issues with long term lean condition, and like most had the intake smoked and went over all my connections many many times... After replacing everything but the suction pump, I finally bit the bullet an ordered a replacement. When I pulled my old one, you can see even the small amount of pressure I could create with my mouth compromised the seal..
> 
> 
> 
> ...



where is the SJP located? I'll see what I can tell- I've noticed man y of the check and Y connectors were badly decomposed and replaced them..


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

spydox said:


> where is the SJP located? I'll see what I can tell- I've noticed man y of the check and Y connectors were badly decomposed and replaced them..


It is under the intake manifold (at least for the 225 models). While you can try to extract all the tubing without pulling the manifold off, I can assure you its much easier with it out of the way (I have done both).


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