# Remote Starter Time again, info here!!!



## phd-12v (Jun 13, 2001)

ok time for a little lesson on these :
1-if you dont understand relays and diodes-DO NOT attempt this installation!!!!
2-if you want to do these newer vehicles, say 99 1/2 and up, you WILL NEED a bypass for the transponder, and you will need to use your VALET keys
3-im going to attempt to answer as much as i can with out getting too technical, and it doesnt matter if it's a manual or not, EITHER of them can be done with the RIGHT parts
now the golf and jetta are pretty much the same install, with ONE exception---if your doing an alarm and remote starter combo unit, you need to wire each door individualy to the alarm--here is the reason why---when the remote starter engages, it needs to disarm the factory alarm first---this does the following, it unlocks the driver door and turns on the interior lights---now if you added an alarm to the vehicle, the alarm thinks a door was opened and it will trigger the alarm to go off----now the easiest way to do this is the add an additional relay to break the interior light wire from the alarm, but understand you lose security of the vehicle then-----now if you wire each door individually you will not lose any security, but you will need to run wires into each door and install diodes in each door to elimate any chance of backfeeding the circuit----this is issue #1 ----now on too issue #2----the transponder bypass----awhile ago we were using a universal transponder bypass, it basically has a ring on it that transmits only under remote start----well it was very picky aboout where it was installed----then a new version came along to be used in bmw's that was better suited for the install in a vw----DEI part# 555B -----this is the only 1 i will use currently in a new VW----it is working flawlessly in 2 gti's at work(we love VW's there )--and also for all our vw customers-----dont waste your time with other ones---ok issue #3-----door lock integration is actually easy in this vehicle----with the exception of wiring it in the rear of the front driver door---the trunk release can also be accessed in the door, if your running 2 wires in there, a third isnt that mucch harder----ok issue #4---manual or automatic??? ----IT DOESNT MATTER---the clutch is a simple 2 wire switch, that you will need a relay to integrate to----extremely easy clutch to bypass actually---and if you do it correctly, it will only bypass when under remote start-------ok issue #5----WHICH alarm/remote start to get??? heres my list that i have personally done on newer vw's:
Clifford Solaris (has everything you need for either manual or automatic!!!!)
Autopage rs650
Autopage rs750lcd
Clifford Intelliguard 8000 w/ Intellistart 4--(also does both manual and automatic)
Viper 790xv 
Viper 550esp
Avital 3300 (basically a viper 550)
Avital 6501 (old unit, not produced anymore, but there are some still around)
anyway, they all worked fine, with the best one being the Solaris for integration of the factory alarm, and remote starting on manual or automatic
hope this helps a little---if you need more info, or need technical help, feel free to email me : [email protected] if you need immediate assitance i can be reached via AIM: phd12vxxx my cellphone has AIM on it, send me a message with your phone # and the make model year of the vehicle you need help on ok?
and by the way---FIND AN INSTALLER THAT KNOWS THESE VEHICLES---ive heard some serious horror stories from other people about lack of knowledgable installers at best buy and circuit city when it comes to these cars---just a heads up

issue #6--------you need to turn off the igntion lock/unlock after installing these units---forgot about that one ---and then issue #7----split parking light wires ----you will need 2 6amp diodes with the bands facing away from the remote starter--once again, if you dont understand diodes and relays, have it done by a pro
now here are some specific wiring instructions for some specific vehicles:
*DOOR LOCK WIRING* 
what we are basically doing is getting to the key cylinder wiring. the factory uses 2 wires coming from the driver door key cylinder to arm/disarm the factory alarm--if you were to wire additional relays to these wires, and hold the pulse going to the wire, your windows will go up and down respectively
mk4's-Jetta/Golf/GTI
_LOCK WIRE=_ yellow/blue in the driver door
_UNLOCK WIRE=_ green/red or yellow/green in the driver door
these 2 wires are in the rear mosr portion of the driver door, they are a NEGATIVE pulse system---1 pulse on the LOCK wire will lock all doors, and arm the factory alarm. 1 pulse on the UNLOCK wire will disarm the factory alarm, and unlock the driver door only. Most newer alarm systems have a programming feature for double pulse unlock, you want to program this to ON. This way you will unlock all doors, and disarm the factory alarm in one shot---as a note, if your alarm remote starter unit has thin wiring that flips its polarity depending on the vehicle, you best bet is to put relays on the wires ---i have in fact gotten it to work with 1 amp diodes, but i dont recommend it--(i was in a pinch)









*DOMELIGHT WIRING INFO* 
If your only installing an alarm, then you will want to go directly to the wire at the factory alarm, it is a blue/gray wire and is a NEGATIVE TRIGGER. Now if your doing an alarm/remote starter combo unit, you will do this one of 2 ways, you will either need to add a relay to interrupt the door trigger when under remote start, or wire each door individually with diodes (3amp) installed in the factory lines. Bad side to this is if you interupt the door trigger wire, you lose the door trigger for security reasons while under remote start. GTI's only have the 2 front doors, so its not that much of an ordeal, the jetta's and 4 door golfs are more of a pain. the reason for this is stated above as issue #1
*PARKING LIGHTS* 
OK, this is the easiest of the bunch, VW has split parking light wires on their cars. Take the single wire output from your alarm(should be a + output) and your gonna need 2 6amp diodes . Take the diodes in your hand, notice one side has a silver band on it?? good. take the OTHER side and solder those 2 ends together. those 2 ends will be soldered directly to the output from the alarm system. take the BAND ends which are still seperate, and solder a wire to each one---you should end up with a Y-looking wire---insulate both diodes too---now you have 2 wires to hook up to the factory parking light wires. pull out your factory headlight switch, and look for the _gray/red_ and the _gray/black_ wires---these are your parking light wiresconnect each end of the wiring you just made to each wire. the diodes keep this circuit from backfeeding into each other, as an FYI
i will try and edit this more as time allows

*WIRING DIAGRAMS OF PASSAT/GTI/JETTA/Cabrio* 
* WARNING:USEAT YOUR OWN RISK * 
_ MK4 JETTA/GTI/GOLF WIRING _ 
12volts red + ignition harness 
Starter red/gray + ignition harness 
Ignition black + ignition harness 
Accessory black/red + ignition harness 


Power Lock yellow/blue - driver door module in door 
Power Unlock green/red or yellow/green - driver door module in door 
Notes: A double pulse will unlock all doors and disarm the factory alarm. 

Parking Lights+ gray/red and gray/black + driver kick panel 

Door Trigger blue/gray - comfort module 
Notes: The comfort module is the main control module located under the driver side of the dash.
This wire will read the dome light delay. To avoid the dome light delay, use the separate door trigger wires and diode isolate each one. They are brown/white and are all located in their own door at their own door module. 
Dome Supervision blue/gray - comfort module 
Notes: The comfort module is the main control module located under the driver side of the dash. 
Trunk/Hatch Pin brown/black or brown/blu - comfort module 
Notes: The comfort module is the main control module located under the driver side of the dash. 
Hood Pin brown/red - comfort module 
Notes: The comfort module is the main control module located under the driver side of the dash. 
Trunk/Hatch Release green/brown - comfort module 
Notes: The comfort module is the main control module located under the driver side of the dash. 

Factory Alarm Arm arms with lock 
Factory Alarm Disarm disarms with unlock 

Tachometer NOT black/purple or brn ac any ignition coil 

Brake Wire red/black + driver kick panel 

Horn Trigger black/yellow + comfort module 
Notes: The comfort module is the main control module located under the driver side of the dash. 

_ 2000 CABRIO WIRING _ 
12volts red 10 ga. + ign. harness - big 
Starter red/black 10 ga. + ign. harness-big

Ignition black 16 ga. + fuse box 

Notes: There is a positive trigger key sense wire at the ignition switch or in the radio harness. the wire color is brown/red. 

Accessory black/yellow 12 ga. + 

Power Lock gray + driver door harness in kick 
Power Unlock green + driver door harness in kick 
Notes: Requires a double pulse to unlock. 

Parking Lights+ gray/red, gray/black back of lt.switch 
Notes: Hidden release tab for light switch on upper left side of switch. Use relays to isolate the switch side of parking light wires from seeing 12v, or the igniton circuit will pulse with the light flash. It is also possible to use the hazard lights. The colors are black/white and black/green, and are positive trigger. They can be found at the alarm module or steering column. 

Door Trigger brown/white - dr. kick or alarm mod 
Notes: The alarm module is located behind the headlight switch. 

Trunk/Hatch Pin brown/black - dr. kick or alarm mod 
Notes: The alarm module is located behind the headlight switch. 
Hood Pin brown/red - at alarm module
Notes: The alarm module is located behind the headlight switch. 
Trunk/Hatch Release gray switch 
Notes: Gray wire grounded by switch at rest. Use a relay to isolate the switch side of the trunk release wire from seeing 12v. 

Factory Alarm Arm same as lock + 
Factory Alarm Disarm same as unlock + 
Notes: Use a single pulse to disarm without unlocking. 

Tachometer black/red at coil on firewall 

Brake Wire red/black + brake pedal switch 

Horn Trigger black/yellow + alarm module 
Notes: The alarm module is located behind the headlight switch. 

_ 2002 PASSAT WIRING _ 
12volts red + ignition harness 
Starter red/black + ignition harness 
Ignition black + ignition harness 
Accessory yellow/black + ignition harness 

Power Lock red/green - in driver door 
Power Unlock red/blue - in driver door 
Notes: Unlock requires a double pulse. First pulse will disarm the alarm and unlock the driver door, second pulse will unlock all the doors. 
Parking Lights+ green/red headlight switch 
Door Trigger blue/gray - 23 pin plug, pin 21 @ CCM 
Notes: The CCM (Comfort System Central Control Module) is mounted on floorpan in protective box, under the carpet in front of the driver seat. 
Dome Supervision comes on with unlock 
Trunk/Hatch Pin brown/black - 23 pin plug, pin 10 @ CCM 
Notes: The CCM (Comfort System Central Control Module) is mounted on floorpan in protective box, under the carpet in front of the driver seat. 
Hood Pin brown/red - 15 pin plug, pin 5 @ CCM 
Notes: The CCM (Comfort System Central Control Module) is mounted on floorpan in protective box, under the carpet in front of the driver seat. 
Trunk/Hatch Release brn/gry or brn/grn - 23 pin plug, pin 2 @ CCM 
Notes: The CCM (Comfort System Central Control Module) is mounted on floorpan in protective box, under the carpet in front of the driver seat. 

Factory Alarm Arm arms with lock 
Factory Alarm Disarm disarms with unlock 

Tachometer ignition coil or coil pack 
Notes: For tach go to one of the ignition coils or coil pack and use a wire that is NOT red/green or brown/yellow. 

Brake Wire red/black + brake pedal switch 

Horn Trigger blk/yel (alarm horn) + 15 pin plug, pin 11 @ CCM 
Notes: The CCM (Comfort System Central Control Module) is mounted on floorpan in protective box, under the carpet in front of the driver seat. 




_Modified by phd-12v at 9:12 PM 1-5-2004_


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## Swift_Golf_Coupe (Sep 23, 2002)

awesome info.....but I see a whole bunch of horror stories comming...from backyard "installers".....but none the less, kudos to you for taking the time to educate the guys in this forum


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## 20v18t (Apr 9, 2002)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (phd-12v)*

Thanks for all the detailed info! I have a question for you and will explain it as good as I can... 
I have a Clifford Intelliguard 7000 installed with remote start and glass break sensor profesionally installed. The one issue that I have with it is when I arm the alarm. 
Scenario 1. I park the car and get out, and arm the alarm 10 seconds after I shut the door. This will lock the doors (I will hear a honk (factory)), and the Clifford alarm will arm (I will hear a double chirp). So everything works fine.
Scenario 2. I park the car and get out, and arm the alarm right after I shut the door. The clifford alarm arms (I will hear a double chirp), but the doors do not lock(no honk).
Do you have an idea of what is not right with the wiring? or is this something that is the way it is?
I have taken it back to the installer, and they pretty much said that it works, and you just have to wait the little bit before you lock the doors. 
PM me or shoot me an email @ [email protected]


_Modified by 20v18t at 11:31 PM 1-6-2004_


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## phd-12v (Jun 13, 2001)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (20v18t)*

since others may have the same question---ill post it here
on the clifford alarms---they have the interior illumination wire (brown/red) hooked up to ground---this wire does 2 things, 1 it tells the alarm what POLARITY your vehicle domelight is, and 2 it sends out a pulse when you disarm the alarm to turn on the factory domelight-----i had this happen and i completely forgot about it----heres the fix:
you will need to install a diode in the main door trigger wire going to the alarm---(band faces away from the alarm)---what this will do is keep the alarm from activating your domelight when you 1 turn off the car and 2 when you disarm the car---you dont need this feature, cause the factory alarm when disarming, turns your interior light on---do this and you wont have that delay anymore http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
p.s --- the way i finally figured this out was this---ask yourself a question--if you try and arm the factory alarm it wont arm with the door open huh??? when the output from the clifford stays on, your factory alarm thinks the door is still open--hence the delay on arming it!!!!











_Modified by phd-12v at 10:00 PM 1-6-2004_


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## DubRadio (Oct 15, 2003)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (phd-12v)*

great post phd, and ever heard of AstroStart we use those along with autopage at my shop, love em, and our installer who does all the remote starts can nock out 3 basic one in a day(2 if involving more and one if it is a whole system, i.e. remote start, security, and everything being programed) but yeah the info you posted is awsome http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif big ups to you. and like you mentioned b4 there are quite a bit of installers at best buy and curciut who do not know what they are doing, we get several "fix" installs a week that have come from best buy and curcuit and the owner had told us that best buy or curcuit had f-uped there car and try and charge them to fix it







whats up with that, at my shop if we mess anything up or something goes wrong(doesnt usually happen) we will bring you in and fix it for no charge as long as we installed it and no one else has tampered with it. that is another thing whats the deal with people who dont know anything about security systems trying to add there own **** in







lol when they come back saying we messed up there car we take there dash panels, knee bolster (and so on) off and find that thebrain is now relocated and wires have been exposed and not properly wrapped up or heat shrunk. we just look at them and laugh and tell them that we found the problem, it was an I D 10 T error and make money because they wernt smart enough to leave it alone.


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## 20v18t (Apr 9, 2002)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (phd-12v)*

Hey thanks a lot!!! Im going to call the installer tonight and see what they say. Ill keep you posted.


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## kwalton (Sep 3, 2001)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (phd-12v)*

Great post. It still scares me to let someone less experiened work on putting remote starts or alarms in their cars. It has always been my experience that the install alone is the best defense for security of the car. Remote starts are a whole other ballgame; if you haven't done one before please do not attempt. There are just to many variables in putting them in. As far as the "lack of knowledge" comment; yes I know that there are those people out there that really aren't all that knowlegable, but let's remember that there are a few like myself who would bend over backwards to take care of you right. I work for one of those big chains because that is where the money is and let me tell you; before handing your car over to just any installer sit down and talk with them and lay out your plans for the car and if they sound confident enought go with them.


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## phd-12v (Jun 13, 2001)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (kwalton)*

excellent post, i agree with you 100%---yeah i know it was kinda weird to post the info, but it makes it easier when troubleshooting comes into play---i knew the comment about the big boxes would come into play at some point, i understand i work for one too- http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif ---but i was asked last year by someone to post the pertinent info, and i did, so i reposted it this year, and then it was added in the faq section
also when guys are looking for wiring for turbo timers/stereo work, or anything electrical, i basically laid out all the wiring they may or may not need


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## Raistlin (Jul 22, 2003)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (phd-12v)*

Hey guys, I noticed in the list you didn't have the Compustar alarm/starter on your list...
I have to say my install is awesome and he did an a1 job on my install of this particular starter/alarm...(for anyone who isn't familiar with this starter/alarm, it is a 2 way pager and it is awesome cause it has a 1/4 mile range on it and for all you turbo users on it...there is a turbo timer built in to it. more on http://www.compustar.org look for the 2WFM series) The new ones have a range of 1.25 miles on it...WOW








I tells ya...nothing beats this...in my mind that is. Oh, the only thing is...if you have a 4 door with the alarm...you need to hook it up to all four door pins to get this particular one to work. Giddy-up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## SalemNHGreenGolf (Jul 1, 2002)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (DubRadio)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DubRadio* »_great post phd, and ever heard of AstroStart we use those along with autopage at my shop, love em, and our installer who does all the remote starts can nock out 3 basic one in a day.

Sorry to break the news to you man, but doing 3 remote starters in one day, lets say an 8 hour day just for the hell of it, isn't fast or impressive at all. Basic remote starters, say something without keyless entry, no bypass, will take about 20-30 minutes, including taking the vehicle apart, installing the unit (soldering every wire), and reassembly. On a slightly harder vehicle, say maybe one with keyless, bypass, trunk, all that good stuff, on average, will take about 45 minutes to an hour, at most. Even harder than average vehicles, ones where you have to go into the door for the keyless wiring or for the factory alarm disarm, trunk, etc., will take no more than an hour and a half at the longest. That works out to somewhere between 8-12 starters a day, on average, which I do EVERY DAY! Just thought I'd let you know.


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## kwalton (Sep 3, 2001)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (SalemNHGreenGolf)*

Not to second guess your times, but it makes me wonder just how good these installs are. I have been doing this for 10 years proffesionally and the quickest cars out there for me are hondas. Now I don't know what you capabilities are but I consider myself to be pretty good and my record for most remote starts in a day is 6-8 depending on whether they are just remtote starts or keyless with alarms. Also. factor in immobilizers and I just don't think it's possible. My best day was a 12-14 hour day. These are also all DEI products.


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## kwalton (Sep 3, 2001)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (SalemNHGreenGolf)*

One other thing - are you installing a hood switch and running a tach wire??


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## phd-12v (Jun 13, 2001)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (kwalton)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kwalton* »_Not to second guess your times, but it makes me wonder just how good these installs are. I have been doing this for 10 years proffesionally and the quickest cars out there for me are hondas. Now I don't know what you capabilities are but I consider myself to be pretty good and my record for most remote starts in a day is 6-8 depending on whether they are just remtote starts or keyless with alarms. Also. factor in immobilizers and I just don't think it's possible. My best day was a 12-14 hour day. These are also all DEI products.

ive done 9 in one day, keyless and remote start--8 had immobilizers and 2 had wiring in the door--(nissans)----that took about 14 hours straight---that and ive been doing this 14 years now---3 a day for me is a lazy day actually--and there is no way in hell, i could do 9 vw's in one day with an alarm and remote start---3 -4 would be pushing it for me---there is too many different variables when doing remote starts to say it only takes a certain time to do any car---every car is different in its own way---my easiest vehicles to do are camry's and civic's---which by the way,are always coming in-----give me 12 camrys, and ill be home in time for monday night football


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## phd-12v (Jun 13, 2001)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (kwalton)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kwalton* »_One other thing - are you installing a hood switch and running a tach wire??
yes --------
depends on the vehicle(if it actually has a tach wire then yes, if it has multiple coils, or just injectors, i usually go tachless, because of idiot dealers around here blaming squeaking brakes on a remote starter---you who do these, and have been doing them for some time, will understand


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## SalemNHGreenGolf (Jul 1, 2002)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (kwalton)*

I know that my times that I listed above may no sound realistic, but I challenge you to find anything wrong with any of my installs. Every wire soldered, all wires taped to "blend" with the factory wiring, 99% of wires completely unfindable (if that's a word) when an alarm is also being installed, every thing done the right way. As far as using hood pins, have you seen the effects of one New England winter on a hood pin? Completely rust out, not worth the hassle. I install a toggle switch on the hood pin shutdown input, inform the customer of it's locatiion and function, and I had stickers made up for under the hood to warn any would be mechanic as to how to disable the system. Tach wires, 90% of the time, but as stated above, sometimes it is just less of a headache as an afterthought with doing it tachless, whether it be using a timed output for the cranking (DEI products) or using the average crank time of the last 8 times the vehicle was started by key (Code Alarm models.) I have quite a list compiled of alternate locations for obtaining a good tach signal, 90% of them being inside the vehicle, thus eliminating the time used to run wire to the engine bay. 
As far as easiest vehicles to work on, I would definitely say late '99-'02 Chevy/GMC full size trucks and SUVs. Two 7mm screws, 4 10mm nuts, and the entire insall is right before your eyes, ignition harness and BCM, every thing but the tach wire is there, but just reach up behind the cluster for the tach. DONE! Record time on one thus far: 12 minutes, start to finish.


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## phd-12v (Jun 13, 2001)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (SalemNHGreenGolf)*

12 minutes?? it takes my soldering iron 12 minutes to heat up sometimes


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## kwalton (Sep 3, 2001)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (SalemNHGreenGolf)*

I am sorry, but i just can't believe you!! yeah sure everything is right there in those trucks, but still what about a prewire on the bench and how about verifying the wiring?? Oh yeah how about the door locks in those vehicles? as far as going tachless tell me how reliable is that remote start when it 10 below and it is trying to read voltage off the battery. I am sorry but your statements just don't make me believe. oh by the way you also have a 10mm bolt holding the e-brake handle as well.


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## SalemNHGreenGolf (Jul 1, 2002)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (kwalton)*

what the hell are you taking the ebrake handle out for? I hope it's not the door locks you are referring to, because you can get them at the BCM, right below the ignition harness, left plug, light blue is lock, white is unlock, right next to eachother.
And for the soldering iron taking 12 minutes to heat up, try butane, junior. Instant heat.


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## kwalton (Sep 3, 2001)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (SalemNHGreenGolf)*

I was referring to the newer gm trucks with the one wire systems that you need a 455g or 456g,


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## phd-12v (Jun 13, 2001)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (SalemNHGreenGolf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SalemNHGreenGolf* »_And for the soldering iron taking 12 minutes to heat up, try butane, junior. Instant heat.
 i was kidding---and by the way, i have 3 butane ones, just in case








also,whats with the junior comment??? you have an issue with something, you would like to share with the class?


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## 1.8TWolfsberg (May 18, 2002)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (phd-12v)*

Here is a lil add-on for you Jason...regarding the brake wire(s):
The Red/Black brake wire at the Brake Light Switch sends a (+)positive pulse. If you are wiring up a turbo timer, you will need to tap into the White/Yellow wire which is right next to it. The White/Yellow wire sends a (-)negative pulse. (Of course, you can still use the (+) pulse Red/Black, however you will need a relay to invert the polarity so you do not damage the turbo timer or whatever other device you wish to hook up that requires a (-) pulse.
Using a multimeter the following should be looked for when verifying the correct wires:
Red/Black _will read_ Key in=0v & Brake depressed=+12v
White/Yellow _will read_ Key in=+12v & Brake depressed=0v


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## askthefool (Mar 9, 2004)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (phd-12v)*

Bringing back an old thread. Do you guys know any installers in the SoCal area that know alarm installations really well and charge fair prices?
I already own a Viper 790xv system and got quotes as low as $140 but don't want some tool working on my car. This seems like its a lot of work, and $140 seems like the guy dosen't understand how complicated VW's are. Does $140 sound like a right price to install this system?
This guy is a DEI authorized dealer, but I'm not sure if he undstands VW well enough to my car.
I have a 20th.


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## Luv of Speed (May 19, 2001)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (askthefool)*

If your door locks aren't workin properly after the install, use a DEI 451M, doorlock relay system, it should solve the problem. Below are the symptoms that I had before the 451M install. 
Sometimes when arming, the doors will not lock and the stock alarm and the after-market alarm thinks that a door is open when all the doors are actually closed.


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## phd-12v (Jun 13, 2001)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (Luv of Speed)*

is this the install we talked about, by any chance???


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## phd-12v (Jun 13, 2001)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (Luv of Speed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Luv of Speed* »_If your door locks aren't workin properly after the install, use a DEI 451M, doorlock relay system, it should solve the problem. Below are the symptoms that I had before the 451M install. 
Sometimes when arming, the doors will not lock and the stock alarm and the after-market alarm thinks that a door is open when all the doors are actually closed. 
notice this taken from the first post:
these 2 wires are in the rear mosr portion of the driver door, they are a NEGATIVE pulse system---1 pulse on the LOCK wire will lock all doors, and arm the factory alarm. 1 pulse on the UNLOCK wire will disarm the factory alarm, and unlock the driver door only. Most newer alarm systems have a programming feature for double pulse unlock, you want to program this to ON. This way you will unlock all doors, and disarm the factory alarm in one shot---*as a note, if your alarm remote starter unit has thin wiring that flips its polarity depending on the vehicle, you best bet is to put relays on the wires* ---i have in fact gotten it to work with 1 amp diodes, but i dont recommend it--(i was in a pinch


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## EUROROC (Mar 30, 2002)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (phd-12v)*

Nice to see some one posting about alarms that actually knows what they are talking about... 
I'm new to the A4 cars but my A1 is totally wired... doors, windows, starter and everything in between... tilt and slide sunroof module is currently in developent in my secrect underground lab








Volkswagen did some crazy-ass stuff in the A1's (windows and ebrake wiring, etc.) and I expected to the A4 to be just as weird or weirder since they've had more time to build on previous strangeness...








I will use this as a reference when I decide to install an alarm into my car!
-Raffi


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## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (SalemNHGreenGolf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SalemNHGreenGolf* »_what the hell are you taking the ebrake handle out for? I hope it's not the door locks you are referring to, because you can get them at the BCM, right below the ignition harness, left plug, light blue is lock, white is unlock, right next to eachother.
And for the soldering iron taking 12 minutes to heat up, try butane, junior. Instant heat.

i dont get the ebrake either. those are cake, everything a bcm. and the newer ones, i use the crimestopper gm-u7. does it all, arm, disarm, locks, and below freezing turns heeted seats, dfrost, and mirrors on iff app.
and i have been succesfull running the 556u on the vws. there is a trick to them, works every time








and i do hoodpins, fused battery leads w/40amp fuse, and a tach source under the hood. (hood, and tach inside if i can) side jobs i get power at the column for most. at work i gotto go under the hood. i have noticed 4cyl, and GMs need a tach source.
though we had a toyota highlander come in from acton toyota and said that the remote start cause the check engine light, that we were taped into the o2 sensor, or crank position. that was hillaryous, i took pics of this one for the books. they ended up refundering the customer the $80 to run the code. we were on the non common coil wire as normal. they admitted to seeing a remote start and just pointing the finger. these dealers are funny, on how LITTLE they know about wiring. (end rant)
as for mk4s, locks in doors, and trunk, hood pin, dome light at comfort, i found a ebrake wire at a relay under the dash above the power points, powere at the point under the dash, starter, ign, acc at column, brake at switch, and i believe it was just a negative start wire to bypass clutch, didnt have to use a relay. lights at switch. not a bad car at all to do, i had it down to 2 hours for a full start with locks, and tach under the hood at an inj. doing my girlfriend wolfy tomorrow night.


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## mr-e-passat (Dec 30, 2004)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (VW1990CORRADO)*

the compustar question was never answered and I was considering purchasing that one. so should a remote start/ alarm be separate from turbo timers or is it ok to integrate such


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## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (mr-e-passat)*

Wow dug up from 3 years ago on the last reply.


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## inivid (Aug 25, 2003)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (mr-e-passat)*

i'm tempted to say that, using the required tronsponder bypass module (fortin or idatalink, i can't remember which one does what i'm about to tell you about) you can basically rule out the need for a turbo timer, as the module can be programmed to run for x minutes after the vehicle is put into "reservation mode" and the key is removed (while engine is running).
i'll get back to you with specifics tomorrow evening after i get of work. i need to consult one of my fellow techs at work.










_Modified by inivid at 7:58 PM 2-28-2008_


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## mr-e-passat (Dec 30, 2004)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (inivid)*

thanks alot appreciate it....you just might have saved me some money and some yelling from the wife


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## inivid (Aug 25, 2003)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (mr-e-passat)*

ok. I forgot again!!!








writting myself a note and putting it in the car right now, so i don't forget again. sorry 'bout that. i'll definitely have an answer for you tomorrow.


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## inivid (Aug 25, 2003)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (inivid)*

ok finally got an answer for you.
compustar remote starts have a turbo timer built in. i'll explain it more when i'm not at work.


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## inivid (Aug 25, 2003)

*Re: Remote Starter Time again, info here!!! (inivid)*

ok, it's in the a.m. here before i go to work, just wanted to elaborate on the whole "turbo timer" function of the compustar remote start units. their "pro" unit is the one i'd personally go for if i were to get a compustar remote start. anyway... 
to use the turbo timer function... say you just got to work, you'll pull into your parking spot, press the foot brake, set the hand brake, release the foot brake. the vehicle is now in what compustar calls "reservation mode". you can now remove your key from the ignition and the vehicle will continue to run for a set duration that can be programmed by your compustar dealer. the duration can be set between 1min to basically an hour. afterwhich, the vehicle will turn off.
hope this clears it up.


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