# '95 Cabrio buildup -- a little flavr



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

This will be my first buildup thread. We picked up this clean little Cabrio a few years ago for my wife, an around-town car so she wouldn't have to drive the Suburban all the time. Here it is after we cleaned it up and swapped in some tan leather:
















You should have seen the beat-down party-to-go interior. It cleans up pretty nice! But it did have its share of bumps and bruises; typical of a college-girl's car from the city, which it was. Fast forward a few years and the top is starting to split, the paint is fading quickly, and I have a stash of parts I've been collecting for its eventual makeover. I always forget to snap pictures, so I'm going to try to do better and document the progress here. This summer I treated the car to a full tune-up and engine detailing, plus a full suspension rebuild with the Eibach Pro kit. So the running gear is sound, now it's time to turn my attention to the car. 
A few weeks ago I took the car in to see Bubba at Suburban Autobody in Herndon. Bubba has a _sweet_ t-red jetta on ATS cups, and I expect a lot of the NoVA dubbers know who he is. He was easy to deal with, and we worked out a price and schedule. 
I spent the next two weeks stripping down the car, as it's going to get a color change and I wanted the body shop guys to have easy access to all the nooks and crannies:
























I dropped off the car last Friday. As of today we are still waiting for the fenders to arrive. The originals had what appeared to be a little surface rust, but turned out to be a lot bigger of a headache. I realized too late that Golf and Jetta fenders will not work, so I had to order new ones. Bubba was able to get a special price from Lindsay VW, which was almost as cheap as 1stVWParts, but without the shipping. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Here are a few shots from the shop, just waiting for parts to arrive. Hope to have the car back next week, then start putting it back together. It will have several subtle custom mods which I will elaborate on a little later







.
























Stay tuned... 


_Modified by RabbitsKin at 9:35 AM 6-20-2009_


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## Oldskoolvwlover v9.0 (Aug 4, 2004)

nice.... those window/door seals suck, I broke my driver side one in the window channel on the back when I was putting it back in.


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (Oldskoolvwlover v9.0)*

Lol, man I could NOT figure out how to get those pesky things off of there. I had the top corner loose, and I was afraid I'd rip them trying to pry them out. Didn't realize they would peel out of that little aluminum channel. I bent one of the channels at the bottom trying to pry on it with a screwdriver, before I figured it all out.


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## Oldskoolvwlover v9.0 (Aug 4, 2004)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

yeah it is a freakin adventure...... I bent one of the rear window seals that goes under the roll bar trim when I was pulling mine apart. Thankfully I have a cool ass wrecker, they let me take one of the parts pullers out to show them how to properly remove it and I only had to pay 10-15 for the part.


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (Oldskoolvwlover v9.0)*

Yeah that one long piece that makes up the door gasket, then up and over the b-pillar and down into the rear window channel, is that the one? I scored brand new ones a couple years ago for cheap, been holding onto it ever since. I'd like to get the windshield header/a-pillar seals, but they are like $360


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## Oldskoolvwlover v9.0 (Aug 4, 2004)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

yeah that gasket broke..... but was still useable
I also bent the scraper piece though, that runs from the door jam to the top and seals against the outside of the glass.


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## Die Frau (Feb 17, 2007)

*Re: (Oldskoolvwlover v9.0)*

wow, looking great! I will deff. stay tuned on this!


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (Die Frau)*

The car is getting euro texture-tops. I couldn't resist the temptation to play with my plastic welder







. I was going to shave the turn signals completely, but keep the line. Well, it turns out texture-tops are a little different than the smooth bumpers:








Notice the groove under the texture is wider along the sides than it is near the license plate. The NA bumper that I would be using for a donor has the skinny groove, and I don't have a spare texture-top laying around to duplicate the wider groove. So....I had to come up with a new plan...
Basically, I decided to create a slit opening for the turn signal lens, which would match the width of the larger groove in the bumper. Here is what it looked like mocked-up with a donor piece from my NA bumper:








This turned out to be a lot more difficult than it looked. The problem was that because I was using the lower edge of the opening from the donor, it wasn't as long as the upper edge of the opening I was trying to fill. It was about an inch short, so I had to fill that with another spliced-in section from the donor. Once everything fit right, it started to look like this:








Using a piece of paper, I carefully traced a template for the filler piece I would need. The only thing in the garage with the proper contours was the rear bumper, so that is what I used:
















With the new donor piece cut to the shape of the template, it started to fit together. After a little adjusting it looked like this:








Here is a picture in the middle of plastic-welding the pieces together:








And here is how it looked after filing down the high spots. I was really pleased with the results. I went back after this photo and melted a little more plastic into the low spots, then finished off the remaining places with Polyflex filler.








I blocked it once with the Polyflex, but I'm no expert at the finish work so I'm leaving that for Bubba's crew







Hopefully they won't curse me too much when they start prepping for paint:
















Of course the real task will be to fit turn signal lenses into this narrow space. The opening is 1/2" high. I was thinking about some strip LED's, but I haven't even looked into where to get them yet. Open to suggestions...



_Modified by RabbitsKin at 9:48 AM 6-20-2009_


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## Oldskoolvwlover v9.0 (Aug 4, 2004)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

i'm digging so far, cant wait to see em finished up


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## native-texan_in_tn (Apr 15, 2006)

*Re: (Oldskoolvwlover v9.0)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Oldskoolvwlover v9.0* »_i'm digging so far, cant wait to see em finished up

x2 
Nice write-up that's got me eager to see the end results. I'd opt for the LED's for the new turn signal openings, too. Fabricating some sort of lenses for the openings is what I've been pondering... Something smoked and flush with the outer surface or cutting and using portions of the OEM lenses (not a lot of space to work with, though). Looking forward to seeing what you come up with... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (native-texan_in_tn)*

Here is some amber strip lighting that is almost the right size, 14" X 3/4". Of course I would have to heat it up and bend it, but these are pretty cheap and it might be worth experimenting with:








Also, I saw an early Olds Silhouette the other day. Wonder if these lights could be cut down...










_Modified by RabbitsKin at 11:11 AM 3-8-2008_


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## Rage In The Machines (Aug 27, 2002)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

subscribed.


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## Die Frau (Feb 17, 2007)

*Re: (Rage In The Machines)*

Wow, looking very good!
I am in the middle of shaving a MK3 bumper as well for my wife's Cabby.


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## VR6inAZ (Jul 14, 2002)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RabbitsKin* »_








Of course the real task will be to fit turn signal lenses into this narrow space. The opening is 1/2" high. I was thinking about some strip LED's, but I haven't even looked into where to get them yet. Open to suggestions...










you should get some led's in there, audi r8 drl style!


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RabbitsKin* »_


















you did a really good job of filling the bumper wow http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

i second the idea of R8 L.E.D's
they also come on new body S6 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (35i 2000)*

I like the R8 lights too, and the whole OEM+ thing. I don't think they are the right shape though (?)


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## oopseyesharted (Mar 2, 2005)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

looks great man.
i was wondering where you got this plastic welder and exactly what it is


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (oopseyesharted)*

It's really just an oversized soldering iron. I ordered it from Grainger or McMaster Carr I think. The 'kit' is a plastic box with a built in rheostat for the temperature of the iron. It came with several types of plastic rods, which you are supposed to match to the type of plastic you are welding. One of the tips has a handy hole in it that you can feed the rod through, so that you are adding material as you go. 
I find it best to use trimmings from the piece you are working on as filler, instead of the provided rods. The trick to a good weld, just like with metal, is to get good penetration. It takes some experimentation to get the hang of it, but it's really pretty easy. I learned on another project that it pays to spend extra time cutting and filing _before_ you weld, to ensure the end result will be level and need minimal body filler.


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## oopseyesharted (Mar 2, 2005)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

thanks man


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (oopseyesharted)*

Badgeless grill shot. This is the all plastic kind. I wasn't totally thrilled with it, but at least I was able to re-work the shape on the ends of it, so that it will fit up really tight to the fenders:









The car is getting BMW imola red, and I hope it'll turn out looking like this:


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## Jg022 (Sep 11, 2006)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

subscribed for a good local VA buildup


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (Jg022)*

Aww yeahh.....

























That Jetta in the background is the same color my car used to be!


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## vanaman (Aug 26, 2003)

i hope you have some ballin wheels to go with that new paint.
steve


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (vanaman)*

I don't have the funds for any of the typical 'must have' wheels. But I did pick up this really cool set of oldschool 16" OZ's that I'm working on right now.


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## Redvr6MkIII (Feb 4, 2007)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

Sickness......
Green Tea------------->


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## vanaman (Aug 26, 2003)

*Re: (Redvr6MkIII)*

those look cool. 
steve


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## cabrlicious (Jan 27, 2008)

what year is your car? I'm curious because they changed the position of the lock on the trunk.
I really like where your going with the front blinkers. Shaving them is one thing I wanted to do, but I haven't given a lot of thought about where to put replacements! 
If you do decide to chop/fabricate lenses by hand, make sure you seal them damn good, less they get foggy like cheap aftermarket ones.


_Modified by cabrlicious at 2:36 AM 3-17-2008_


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (cabrlicious)*

The car is a '95. I never realized until I started this project that there were several different styles of trunk lid. I was going to do a MK3.5 lid, but I chickened out because of the lock cylinder/actuator issue, plus we would have needed to add metal to the corners to square them off.


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## LynchedGTI (Jun 6, 2005)

Nice color choice. !


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## BoraVR (Mar 14, 2005)

*Re: (LynchedGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *LynchedGTI* »_Nice color choice. !

x2, love the color http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (BoraVR)*

I'm stoked! Picked up the car today. Here she sits at the body shop:
















On the dolly....that was a nerve-wracking trip home, lemme tellya. Couldn't take any sharp corners for fear the trailer fenders would dent my doors...the ends of the ramps were only a few inches from the rocker panels...afternoon truck traffic on I-66....:









Finally safe at home in the driveway! GTI is lonely and neglected:









Yummy-looking trunk! Don't know how long it will stay like this

















Mmmmm.....shaved goodness....

















Sort of mocked up the front end, looking good so far....*don't scrape the bumper, don't scrape the bumper, don't scrape the bumper*








Tomorrow I'm leaving town for two weeks, so it will be able to sit in the garage and cure. I've got my work cut out for me when I get home though.....lots of it. 



_Modified by RabbitsKin at 5:56 PM 3-17-2008_


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

Oh, and last but not least, a little more flavr that I've been working on:
















Sanded down the wolfsburg crests flush with the fenders, then made up these logos and put them on before the guys sprayed the clearcoat. Originally I was going to go with euro side markers, but I like these better.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2000)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

Nice original touch http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## gunnarpaul (Mar 3, 2008)

This looks bad ass!!!!!


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## vanaman (Aug 26, 2003)

*Re: (gunnarpaul)*

did you pull the windshield yourself? 
steve


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (vanaman)*

Guys at the shop pulled it. I'm debating really hard with myself whether to go ahead and pull the dash, to replace the heater core. Doesn't need it .... yet .... but it will never be easier to access than right now.


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## SpoolinJetta18T (Jul 30, 2004)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

Nice Job would love to see it complete........ http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Mehr_PSI (Apr 13, 2006)

*Re: (SpoolinJetta18T)*

Looking for an update


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (Mehr_PSI)*

Me too! Lol. I decided to go ahead and do the heater core, which is getting ordered today, and I'm going to take this opportunity to do a whole bunch of sound deadening action. It will involve 3M expanding foam and acoustic insulation. 
Since I got back from vacation I have installed little things like the door handles, gas door, and trunk-mounted Fuba. Yesterday I test fit the grill and decided the upper rad support needs to be shaved and painted....let me grab a pic to show what I mean....








Everything else looks so nice, this ugly piece full of extra holes stands out like a sore thumb.


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## Shawn M. (Oct 15, 2002)

those wheels are hot!
Like what you've done so far


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (Shawn M.)*

















Modified the NA rebar and started working on the rad support today:








Oh, the carnage!


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## vanaman (Aug 26, 2003)

may i suggest some laminex or other clear vinyl for behind the door handle. just too make sure it doesnt get scrathed up.
steve


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## Dub Inspiring (Oct 23, 2005)

*watching*


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## bgibson72 (Oct 2, 2007)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RabbitsKin* »_










What am I looking at here? Is that a retractable antenna? On the trunk?
Cool... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## SmA!!zZV3eDuB (Jan 26, 2007)

*Re: (bgibson72)*

looks more like Golf/Jetta roof antenna mounted on his trunk


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (SmA!!zZV3eDuB)*

It's a Fuba base, gonna put a shorty antenna on there.


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## vanaman (Aug 26, 2003)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

07 dodge avenger antena








steve


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (vanaman)*

Would that laminex be able to stretch down into those pockets do you think?


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## TightDub (Dec 24, 2003)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Very nice touches sir! Love the color with the textured tops too


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## BlueDevilCabby (Jul 6, 2006)

Just curious why you molded in that plate tub and didn't just get a later style trunk lid that had the metal tub, as well as the fuba...that just seems like its gonna stick out, and not in a good way.
Otherwise, the work looks top notch and paint looks smooooth!


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (BlueDevilCabby)*

I wanted to do something different with the trunk. Was originally going to go with a MK3.5 trunk, but it would have needed filler metal in the corners, plus I didn't know if the lock mechanism would work out. The '96-'98 Cabrio trunks have been done a lot, so I had the idea to shave the existing tub. I love the smooth look of it even better than the '96-'98 trunk, but the big question obviously is how long it will look nice. 
As far as the Fuba, I've wanted to do that for the longest time. It looks pretty cool with a shorty antenna mast. I definitely wanted to shave it off the front fender, so it was either going to end up on a rear fender or on the trunk. These are both 'controversial' mods, so this is me being controversial, lol








Made a little progress today, got a big design project going at the moment so time is limited. Cut down rear rebar to clear bumper, ground some rust and repainted the thing while I was at it, polished the overspray off the exhaust tips:








It fits! Not 100% happy with the alignment height. Messed with the mounting brackets a little to close up the gap to where you see it now, but I'd like it to be tighter:


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## edubA2seattle (Sep 13, 2001)

Imola Red is an excellent choice. Next to Amulet Red, it pretty much the best red out there.
really excited for this build, wish my lady would let me mess around with her MK3.5


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (edubA2seattle)*

Lol, I've been given the warning that after this project, she doesn't want our cars to be off the road for extended periods of time any more







.
*b b b but honey...* 
Progress pics coming soon on the rad support and heater core. 



_Modified by RabbitsKin at 4:34 PM 4-18-2008_


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## BlueDevilCabby (Jul 6, 2006)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RabbitsKin* »_Lol, I've been given the warning that after this project, she doesn't want our cars to be off the road for extended periods of time any more







.
*b b b but honey...* 
Progress pics coming soon on the rad support and heater core. 


_Modified by RabbitsKin at 4:34 PM 4-18-2008_


hahaa, ya i'm lookin forward to seein that rad support cause i had planned on doin that to my cabby next month...all those useless holes


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## DanylBritts (Aug 29, 2006)

lookin so nice, ha


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (DanylBritts)*

The rad support is all welded up, started sanding on it today. Man, it's going to take some work to get it looking right. I can see why shaving an engine bay is such a chore. 
In other news, I put together the MK3.5 mirrors tonight. Mmmm, purty...


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

Pics will be back up soon, had a snafu paying for my hosting account.


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

Hmm. While installing the tail lights I remembered something that I broke when taking them off! 
THere are three threaded studs that poke through the body, and are attached by nuts on the back. I broke one of the studs, right even with where it was inserted into the lens. The question is will the remaining two nuts be enough to keep a water tight seal? Anyone ever replace one of these studs?


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## BlueDevilCabby (Jul 6, 2006)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RabbitsKin* »_Hmm. While installing the tail lights I remembered something that I broke when taking them off! 
THere are three threaded studs that poke through the body, and are attached by nuts on the back. I broke one of the studs, right even with where it was inserted into the lens. The question is will the remaining two nuts be enough to keep a water tight seal? Anyone ever replace one of these studs?

2 studs should be fine. u could try plastic welding or epoxying the broken stud back on.


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (BlueDevilCabby)*

Well I just installed it and it seems pretty secure/sealed. I guess if the trunk starts getting wet I'll know. Another idea would be to drill out the center and just thread a bolt into the hole.


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## vanaman (Aug 26, 2003)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

dont think there is enough meat. to drill and thread in a bolt.
steve


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## weirdvw (Feb 22, 2003)

*Re: (vanaman)*

updates


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## Fantomasz (Aug 15, 2001)

*Re: (victorhfranco)*


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## Elbows (Feb 27, 2001)

*Re: (Fantomasz)*

Good looking stuff...keep it up. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (Elbows)*

Arrgh, yesterday was supposed to be Progress day for the Cabrio, and I ended up washing cars and doing yard work.








Mirrors are on
Tail lights are in
Rad support still being worked on
Wheels are back from being straightened
Ordered b-pillar covers and a bunch of small stuff from 1stvwparts


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## ExklusivVR6 (Aug 6, 2007)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

Why would you shave the turn/fog pocket on the front bumper but not the 'postcard' in the euro recess? 
Is the fuba on the deck lid permanent?


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (ExklusivVR6)*

In VA you have to run a front plate, so the recess will never get seen. The Fuba is permanent.


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

Test fit the rims today. They are 16X7 et 25, and I was shocked how well they fit! Guy I bought them from said they came off of an E30 bmw. I was really expecting to need spacers on all four corners, but the fronts are almost perfectly flush with the fender lip already (actually a few mm past it). The rears are about 10mm inboard from the fender lip. I'm trying to decide if I should get some 5 or 10mm spacers out back, or just leave it alone.


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## weirdvw (Feb 22, 2003)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

wheels look really good actually .... 
more updates


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## tmack (May 7, 2004)

looks great! I'm digging this build.


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## cabrlicious (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

I take it the 3.5 mirrors plug into the mk3 harness, right? im considering getting those mirrors since theyre more abundant, and because i recently learned they help reduce headlights of that guy behind you.
has anybody seen blue heated glass for the mk3 style mirror housings?


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## cabrlicious (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

what kind of tires are you gonna run on those 16x7s?


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## Son (Aug 10, 2000)

*Re: (cabrlicious)*

I never knew those wheels were actually produced!







The only time I've seen them before were on a Lancia concept car back in like 1990. Can't even find pictures of it! Damn this shows how young the internet is.


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## DaveLinger (Jul 6, 2005)

*Re: (cabrlicious)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cabrlicious* »_I take it the 3.5 mirrors plug into the mk3 harness, right? im considering getting those mirrors since theyre more abundant, and because i recently learned they help reduce headlights of that guy behind you.
has anybody seen blue heated glass for the mk3 style mirror housings?
]
My Mk3.5 mirrors are the blue-tinted ones; and I can't imagine them hooking up differently than mk3 mirrors.


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (DaveLinger)*

Mirrors hook up the same way, mounts and harness. I was confused since the didn't need modification, since i had read all about needed to modify them for a MKIII. But, turns out cabrio to cabrio is the same. 
Those wheels are a really big enigma. I've had several people who _almost _ could remember what they were called, or felt certain they came off of this or that type of car. I really don't know.


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## Wizzkidforever (Oct 10, 2007)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

About how much was it to get your car painted? Looks like it's coming along pretty well! Nicee. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (Wizzkidforever)*

Let's just say it was more than I hoped it would be







If you are really interested to know I can put you in touch with the guy that painted it, but I don't want to be advertising his prices.


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

Spent the last two afternoons detailing the engine bay on the driver's side. I decided I couldn't stand looking at the mis-matched red paint on the strut towers, plus I had never cleaned under the battery tray along the frame rails. So I got a little anal. Wire-wheeling the bolts and all that. 
All I can say is YUCK. Sticky grunge impregnated with dirt and grit, that is basically what is under your battery tray and wire bundles. It bugs me to no end to have stuff like that in my car. So...one thing led to another you might say. Took off this, unbolted that, and after a lot of scraping and scrubbing, all the grunge was gone. I sprayed on a combination of gray hammertone with dull-coat over top. It has sort of a matte texture-y look that I'm not crazy about, but it is worlds better than the beat-up, mis-matched red that was on there before. The other side will be much easier, since I cleaned off all the grunge last year. 


















_Modified by RabbitsKin at 9:00 PM 5-5-2008_


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

I never imagined what a lot of work installing new fenders could be. I had them just tacked in place before. Spent all afternoon on the driver's side fender. Put undercoating on the back, adjusted it out the wazoo until I was pleased with the alignment. Even then, the lower front holes are going to have to be enlarged. Had to buy body caulk, and screw clips for the fender liners (two more trips to the store), and FINALLY everything is in place. One down, one to go! 
Got a package from UPS today....drum roll pease.....
Shiny new B-pillar covers!! Hehe, 90 bucks worth







. They sure are pretty though. I also got a new hood latch and cosmetic cover that goes on the rad support. The gray mat that everything is sitting on is a replacement vapor barrier for the door. At least, that's what I thought I was ordering, sometimes you can't really tell looking at the crummy illustrations online. I don't know why they aren't mylar like the originals, but it beats the cut-down shower curtains I've been using for the Jetta every time I have to fix a power window.


























_Modified by RabbitsKin at 9:04 PM 5-7-2008_


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

Maybe you guys can help me with an idea I've been tossing around for those B-pillar covers. I made a Wolfsburg graphic, which could be turned into a rubdown, like on the fender badges. I would want something subtle, hence the outline look instead of solid color:

















What do you guys think?  Nice detail, or overkill? Leave it smooth shiny black or go for something unique?


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## Johann_VW (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

where did you got those shiny pillarss????
I really like them


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## vanaman (Aug 26, 2003)

*Re: (Johann_VW)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Johann_VW* »_where did you got those shiny pillarss????
I really like them

late mk3.5's had them.
steve


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## Quattro Krant (Sep 15, 2004)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RabbitsKin* »_Maybe you guys can help me with an idea I've been tossing around for those B-pillar covers. I made a Wolfsburg graphic, which could be turned into a rubdown, like on the fender badges. I would want something subtle, hence the outline look instead of solid color:
What do you guys think? Nice detail, or overkill? Leave it smooth shiny black or go for something unique?

I would just leave the b pillar covers "bare"


----------



## TightDub (Dec 24, 2003)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RabbitsKin* »_ 









OZ Executive are almost the same exact wheel except they had center caps covering the lugs http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif MSW had the same model as well. 








and then there were knockoffs as well...just found this one..












_Modified by TightDub at 12:06 PM 5-9-2008_


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (TightDub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TightDub* »_
OZ Executive are almost the same exact wheel except they had center caps covering the lugs http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif MSW had the same model as well. 
_Modified by TightDub at 11:40 AM 5-9-2008_

Blam! Where on earth did you dig that up? I had given up searching. So these are actually the MSW's, judging by the full cap on the OZ version. I'm still going to source some OZ centers I think. How old is that pic? $1700 is still a lot of money for a wheel/tire package, especially back in the day.



_Modified by RabbitsKin at 12:09 PM 5-9-2008_


----------



## TightDub (Dec 24, 2003)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

It came from a 93 european car mag and the Image add came from a 95 EC mag http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Yours may be OZ as well...they had the same exact models for both companies. I cant find any pics of em..


_Modified by TightDub at 12:20 PM 5-9-2008_


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (TightDub)*

They do have OZ stamped on the wheel, but so did MSW's I believe. Either way, I'm just happy it's been identified.


----------



## TightDub (Dec 24, 2003)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Yeah its on all OZ manufactured wheels..like my Fittipaldi's. OZ makes wheels for a ton of companies...
But back on thread topic...I like the wheel choice for the fresh red cabby too


----------



## cabrlicious (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

did your original b pilar covers have the karmann logo on them?
you can see it in this picture:
http://www.autoaction.qc.ca/photos/8685 001.jpg

I think they would look cool with the karmann logo ... though on your car you've already got the little fender badges saying karmann, so that would be redundant.



_Modified by cabrlicious at 5:14 PM 5-9-2008_


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (cabrlicious)*

Yep, I have one of them sitting here on my desk actually. I put it on the scanner to trace out the shield outline.


----------



## cabrlicious (Jan 27, 2008)

oh i see... what about the castle/wolf? just did that by eye?


----------



## dmoney4960 (Mar 14, 2007)

*Re: (cabrlicious)*

wow very very nice project cabby...I am about to purchase a mk3 cabby myself to give my alpine white golf sport some company. I will soon be posting a build thread. but good luck with the rest of the project man i cant wait to see the finished product...wait are projects ever finished







. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (cabrlicious)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cabrlicious* »_oh i see... what about the castle/wolf? just did that by eye?

I grabbed a Wolfsburg logo that I found online and used it as an Illustrator underlay, so I basically traced over it. There are several versions of the logo, I picked the one that seemed the simplest / most recent.


----------



## Son (Aug 10, 2000)

*Re: (Son of a B...5er!)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Son of a B...5er!* »_I never knew those wheels were actually produced!







The only time I've seen them before were on a Lancia concept car back in like 1990. Can't even find pictures of it! Damn this shows how young the internet is.









Lancia Hit. Found it now.


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (Son of a B...5er!)*

Well done indeed! I figured if you ever discovered the car, the wheels would be a lil' different. Those be them! Weird to see a concept car running real-world wheels, isn't it?


----------



## Son (Aug 10, 2000)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RabbitsKin* »_Weird to see a concept car running real-world wheels, isn't it?

Or maybe the wheels were originally made for the concept and only afterwards taken into production.








This concept was unveiled in 1988, BTW.


----------



## TightDub (Dec 24, 2003)

*Re: (Son of a B...5er!)*

The wheels were out b4 the concept car. I definitely remember a few of my buddy's wanting them for their car http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I have definitely seen various concept cars using aftermarket wheels that are in production over the years. I remember seeing some Fittipaldi Indy's on a concept car when they were available at Tire Rack. I am sure because I had the Indys on my car at the time http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Maybe OZ has dibs on concept car wheels


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (TightDub)*

Anybody with an OBD1 Cabrio want to tell me what this connector goes to? It comes out of the passenger side shock tower, it has a green and a brown wire, and is oval-shaped. I can't figure out where it goes. Maybe an ABS wire? 


















_Modified by RabbitsKin at 9:58 AM 6-20-2009_


----------



## bulldog2.G (Jul 25, 2004)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

Bitchin' project, man. 
I'll pop the hood on my 95 later today, to check that connector...


----------



## Grytten88 (Jul 26, 2006)

Cool car dude!
I think the connector is to abs..


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (Grytten88)*

I checked about a dozen MKIII's today, at a junkyard and then an auto auction, and none of them had that plug. Of course, most of them didn't have ABS either. There are definitely unique things about the German-build Cabrios.


----------



## cabrlicious (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RabbitsKin* »_Anybody with an OBD1 Cabrio want to tell me what this connector goes to? It comes out of the passenger side shock tower, it has a green and a brown wire, and is oval-shaped. I can't figure out where it goes. Maybe an ABS wire? 

I think the other guy's right; ABS. I just looked in my car. Now, it is dark out, but I didn't see it. I figure if it's still plugged in, it might not be sitting where it is in your picture. Can you squeeze your camera in bit more to show where it's coming off of? I'll take another look tomorrow in daylight.


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (cabrlicious)*

On mine it come through the same grommet as the brake line, from the side of the shock tower. You'll have to shine a flashlight down there. Once you find the hard brake line, it will either have this ABS wire next to it, or it won't.


----------



## vanaman (Aug 26, 2003)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

if it came thru the shock tower than it is abs. there are only 2 things going thro there. abs and brake line.
steve


----------



## DaddyOfPayton (Feb 24, 2004)

*Re: (vanaman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vanaman* »_if it came thru the shock tower than it is abs. there are only 2 things going thro there. abs and brake line.
steve

I think it is the ABS


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (DaddyOfPayton)*


_Quote »_I think it is the ABS

Me too, I just can't find anything that it attaches to. Could be my ABS system is inop, I don't ever remember slamming on the brakes to find out.


----------



## DaveLinger (Jul 6, 2005)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

if it's ABS your ABS light would be on in the cluster.


----------



## DaddyOfPayton (Feb 24, 2004)

*Re: (DaveLinger)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DaveLinger* »_if it's ABS your ABS light would be on in the cluster.

ABS light on OBD1 Cabrios is in the panel to the left of the headlight switch. 
I *bet* there is no bulb in it, or it is burned out


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (DaddyOfPayton)*

Good thought. I just went and checked it. The ABS light is on the left corner of the dash, and it *does* light up for a few seconds during the 'key-on' test. 
I'll be checking into this further once the car is on the road. For now, the connector is just hanging there.


----------



## cabrlicious (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

My abs light does that too, but last time I checked, when I stomped the pedal the ABS kicked in so.....


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (cabrlicious)*

Got some work done this weekend! New B-pillar covers are the bee's knees. I'll do a how to with pictures when I put on the other side. Been putting back on the trim lately, cleaned up all the overspray from the glass. Getting there.


----------



## vanaman (Aug 26, 2003)

that doesnt look as dark of red as i thought it would.
steve


----------



## mk1rabbitguy (Aug 23, 2005)

lookin real good, I think the the pillars look good the way they are.


----------



## cabrlicious (Jan 27, 2008)

*FV-QR*

so how about some progress HMMMMMM?


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (cabrlicious)*

I'm glad I have this forum, to keep me on track








More pics coming this weekend. Pulling the dash....Yay!
Yay?


----------



## DaddyOfPayton (Feb 24, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (RabbitsKin)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RabbitsKin* »_I'm glad I have this forum, to keep me on track








More pics coming this weekend. Pulling the dash....Yay!
Yay?


You are going to do the heater core while you are in there, right?
Right!


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (DaddyOfPayton)*

Yeah, that's the only reason I'm pulling the dash. The heater core has been sitting here for over a month, just been dreading doing it. The car doesn't _need_ it yet, but well, it's a VW.


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (RabbitsKin)*

Some of the carnage from this weekend. I was dreading this heater core. For good reason, it turns out! Being the anal type, I went ahead and ordered new wire harness foam from McMaster Carr, along with the sound deadening stuff. 
Planning to do a whole DIY on the interior build-up, focusing on sound dampening and eliminating squeaks and rattles. Speaking of DIY's, check out the MK3.5 B-pillar and seal write-up: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3865900 








Isn't this a lovely warning label on the airbag? I can see it now, these things will be poisoning the environment in 10 years.


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (RabbitsKin)*

Got the new harness foam and some sound-deadening foam from McMaster Carr. Also just ordered some RAAMmat, which won't be here until next week. There was dry-rotted foam everywhere on the wiring harness, I probably replaced about 80% of it. I also cut new foam where the ducting will come together with the dash, and where it meets up with the pollen filter. 
















Prepped the floor for the RAAMmat, which was a lot easier than I thought it would be. Thankfully this car was 99.9% rust free. The jute padding came right off, and the tar board I am leaving in place. 








Unfortunately the .1% of rust was under the passenger seat. There was a little bubble about the size of a penny, right beside one of the drain plugs. Once I started grinding, it got bigger. And it's on the bottom side too, beneath the undercoat. I don't know how bad yet since I haven't crawled under there. REALLY wish I had a lift.
Just goes to show, in a convertible if you have a little leak that is 'no big deal' -- it really is a big deal. 








I found this really neat body marking on the tunnel. "Flash Red" http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Hooray for made-in-Germany!










_Modified by RabbitsKin at 10:02 AM 6-20-2009_


----------



## cabrlicious (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (RabbitsKin)*

can we get a side-by-side picture of two cabrios, one in tornado red and one in flash red? I thought mine was tornado red this whole time.... I gotta look at the paint code.


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (cabrlicious)*

This is my 'before' pic, but it's a really accurate representation of how the car actually looked (at least on my monitor). Don't know if that helps.


----------



## edubA2seattle (Sep 13, 2001)

updates?


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (edubA2seattle)*

I hit a major snag with that stupid hole in the floor. I carefully got it cut out and prepped, obtained a new section from the junkyard, and carefully matched it to the opening. Everything was a perfect fit, for a glorious butt-welding job. Except that I must be a TERRIBLE welder







You have no idea how many holes I blew through that sheetmetal. I kept thinking I could save it, but it just kept getting worse and worse. Basic problem = the borrowed welder I was using only had 4 amperage settings, and the first one wasn't low enough. 
So I cut it all out and started over. Sat and looked at my new, larger hole for about a week. Looked into buying a stick welder (more adjustability), but those require 220V, which I don't have. So as we speak there is a mobile welder guy in my driveway, with his dog, welding a new patch into the hole I prepped. I'm trying not to look. What I've seen so far tells me it won't be as nice as I was hoping for. Trying to be patient, and not overly critical, and remember that I was basically stuck at this point. So at least it will be moving forward, even if the weld job doesn't look spectacular. I can hear him out there hammering right now, my fingers are crossed and hoping for the best.....
As luck would have it, my wife is on a mission trip right now, with the digital camera, so I can't even record the progress. I'll post up some pics that I took a few days ago.
edit=> Here is a picture of the first hole I cut, with the matching section marked out. It ended up be a _perfect_ fit. What a shame I botched the welding. The second hole I cut was like this one, but about 1 inch bigger all the way around. And the second patch, which the welding dude made, wasn't nearly this nice








Onward!










_Modified by RabbitsKin at 10:12 AM 6-30-2008_


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

Making progress! 
The guy finished the welding job, about mediocre as I suspected. I treated the heck out of it with rust converter, then sprayed it thoroughly with zinc primer, followed by body caulk to get into all the crevices. Both sides. Since it was an 'overlapped' patch, I paid special care to the underside. There is basically a layer of body caulk across the whole patch, followed by the rubberized undercoating. 
So I was FINALLY able to start implementing my noise reduction plan:
*Step 1* of the plan is RAAMmat (just like Dynamat). I've got one thing to say about this product -- sticky! Although it is aluminum coated on the outside with a peel-off layer on the back, once you stick the stuff down there is a little that can ooze out the edges. You inevitably step on the stuff and it gets on your shoes, then you track it into the kitchen... I kept a bottle of Goof Off handy (naptha) to clean up my hands and my utility knife from time to time







I currently have the floor, footwell, tunnel, and under the rear seat covered in the stuff. You can already tell a difference when you rap on the floor with your knuckles, or when you shut the doors. 
*Step 2* of the plan is a two-part expanding closed-cell foam for body cavities. It comes in one of those twin-tube dispensers with the mixing tip that you get from the autobody supply store. So far I have used it to fill the sheet metal cavities under the seat mount, and it works excellent. My plan is to also use it in the windshield header and a-pillars, and roll bar hoop. 
*Step 3* of the plan is a layer of adhesive-backed closed-cell foam to cover the whole floor, plus parts of the dashboard undersides. I'm debating about using it inside the door panels (against the advice I've gotten). I need to use _something_ in the doors, and I really don't want to take out the regulators to put RAAMmat on the door skin. We'll see how much I have left when I get to the doors. 
Here are a couple of shots of the foam inside the dash. The thought is that this will help reduce any echo effect from all that plastic ducting. 


















_Modified by RabbitsKin at 10:15 AM 6-30-2008_


----------



## BlueDevilCabby (Jul 6, 2006)

i'm eager to see updated pics...


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (BlueDevilCabby)*

Just put up some pics. Unfortunately the camera is in Kosovo right now


----------



## creepmode (Jun 23, 2008)

awesome job, cant wait to see it done rims and all, cool


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## cabrlicious (Jan 27, 2008)

*FV-QR*

interesting developments. tell me, how much weight do you think all the noise reduction materials are going to add to the car in the end? Sounds like you're being thorough .. only question I have is, what will foam in the roll hoop do? What is your thinking there? Echoing noise coming from it?
I'm still saving money to get working on my cabrio. I've been tinkering around with the rabbit in the mean time.


----------



## vanaman (Aug 26, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (cabrlicious)*

my thing a bout moise reductionin a cabrio is.
all the noise i ever here is coming from the top. and there isnt anything we can do about it.
steve


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (cabrlicious)*

My theory on noise reduction is, it is coming from various sources. What I have gleaned from reading up on the Dynamat and Raammat products, is that hard surfaces transmit sound through vibration. Like a speaker. Heavy, sticky mats keep the surface from vibrating, hence quiet. Another source is sound reflection; ergo any sound that _does_ make it into the car bounces off of hard surfaces like the glass and the dashboard. Still another source would be 'echo chambers', i.e. hollow spaces that amplify sound. So my goal is to address as many of these areas as possible. I experimented with a spray-on clear rubber product, which I was going to use on the dash, but it was too glossy for my tastes. Still another source are simple rattles and squeaks, which I'll address later, but I have a method to control those that worked well on my Jetta. 
So the deal with the roll bar is really just trying to fill a hollow space, I don't know how much it will really help. I got the idea from the Ford truck commercial where they talk about using expanding foam in the a-pillars to help quiet unwanted noises. I figured it couldn't hurt. 
Like Vanaman said, a lot of noise could be coming from the top. I'm going with a thicker-than-standard canvas, which is promoted as helping lessen ambient noise. Another option would be to replace some of the top padding with a more sound-absorbing product of some kind. I won't be going that route, mainly because I just really want to get this car done. 
Weight. The Raammat roll was like 25 lbs. It was surprisingly heavy for its size. The roll of foam I am using was much lighter, maybe 10 lbs for double the square footage. For me it is a welcome trade. The car has a Bosal/Brospeed exhaust, which sounds great, but is a little intrusive on the highway with the top up. If I can get the car to where it is pleasant to drive at 3200 rpms, with no squeaks and rattles, I'll be a happy man.


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (RabbitsKin)*

Got the camera back, along with my wife








Interior is slowly going back together, basically I'm being as thorough as possible to address all the areas that were mentioned above. Here is an example of squeak-control......
Your ypical dash part that bolts onto the shell, with the potential to either squeak or rattle after it is installed. The arrows show little foam strips I've installed in strategic places to hopefully mitigate any unwanted noises:
















I'm basically doing this same thing _everywhere_ as dash parts get installed. I also have black felt, depending on the circumstance. Those plastic facia pieces used to be noisy little buggers, but not anymore. I practiced these tricks already on my Jetta, it really does eliminate a lot of irritating noises. 
Padded the whole knee bar under the dash, just to help dampen sound:








Carpet is in. This was taken during the cleaning process. White dog hairs + black carpet = two afternoons of cleaning with a rubber-bristled mit and a shop vac. Not fun. 








Shot of the floor before the carpet went in. I didn't have my camera to show all the RaamMat, but you can see some of it here. Basically it covers the floor, then I have the factory padded mats in front and self-adhesive foam mats in back (there used to be just a little square of jute back there).


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (RabbitsKin)*

Here is a neat trick if anyone happens to be installing a lower glove box. 

Starting with just the lid, carefully removed from the shell:









Get some nice black felt, cut slightly oversize. _Precisely_ cut a hole in the felt where the little divider rib is going to stick up through. This takes a little practice, depending on your manual dexterity







. I measuread and drew it out as a template on a piece of paper first, lightly glued it to the felt, then cut out the hole with a ruler and an X-acto knife:









The idea is to make the slot look as factory as possible. Using 3M Spray 77, glue the felt in place. I saved the gluing of the folded-over parts for later. Now the tricky part -- working around the edge, tuck the felt into the little seam in the glovebox door. I had to use a couple of small screwdrivers and the back of the X-acto blade. It's a tight gap. 









But it looks great when it's all done! In the corners I used a little bead of glue, and you can see where some of it seeped through the felt, so be careful. Here is the finished product installed. It is a little touch that no one but you will notice. But at least now your tire gauge and sunglasses won't be rattling around in there as much







.


----------



## jdubboost (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (RabbitsKin)*

is there any sound deadening you have not thought of? i like the felt on the glove box. good job. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 602crew (Aug 21, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (jdubboost)*

I hope for your mental sanity that there aren't any squeaks when you put this back together.


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (602crew)*

LOL
*mental image of me going at the car with a baseball bat*


----------



## DaddyOfPayton (Feb 24, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (jdubboost)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jdubboost* »_is there any sound deadening you have not thought of? i like the felt on the glove box. good job. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Can I borrow this idea for mine? I'll give you credit


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (DaddyOfPayton)*

the 'felted glovebox mod', hehe, the next wave to sweep vortex


----------



## JoL (Dec 8, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (RabbitsKin)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RabbitsKin* »_the 'felted glovebox mod', hehe, the next wave to sweep vortex









why not use a good idea to improve these cars.








who cares if everyone does it, I never see anyones VW in my town anyways.


----------



## TightDub (Dec 24, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (DaddyOfPayton)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DaddyOfPayton* »_
Can I borrow this idea for mine? I'll give you credit

I was gonna do it and not ask







Good ideas should be whored








btw...couldnt hurt to do the back of the glovebox could it??


_Modified by TightDub at 5:10 PM 7-15-2008_


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (TightDub)*

Already did the back. Didn't want it squeaking against the foam on the knee bar, you know http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Or did you mean the other part of the glovebox insides? I couldn't figure out how to add the felt where the edges wouldn't peel up.


----------



## TightDub (Dec 24, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (RabbitsKin)*

^^ That makes sense...maybe a small strip at the bottom where things settle once closed http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## cabrlicious (Jan 27, 2008)

hey you wouldn't happen to be coming up for waterfest, would you? I'd love to chew your ear off in person








ok, so ... good thing you didn't go with that stuff on the dash... it occured to 
me that a glossy dashboard would be a BADTHING since it would conveniently reflect sunlight into your face. I recall my friend telling me this after he spray 
painted his jetta dash [gloss] blue.
I'm dying to see how your sound deadening works out for you. I've got enough 
money to get my VR6 swap from autohaas, but I want to save enough to get a cupkit and all new bushings for the suspension/steering/whatever. Also, a nice exhaust.. 
blah blah etc. Fix all the fixable stuff if im gonna do a motor swap... and 
while I'm at it, might as well do what you're doing to nix the noises. 
What do you think of the glovebox install? I remember a VW bulletin saying, 'hey don't do that' ... what's your impression in regards to 'interfering with the 
passenger air bag' ? And indeed nice touch with the felt.
I've been mastering the beast that is 3M 77 and the monster called 3M 90. 77 is like a mist where 90 is like... silly string. It's serious stuff. Really expensive.
I guess I need to make a thread about the [cosmetic] things I've done with my 
rabbit. Your thread has inspired me. You see, when I got the car, it came with an in-car puddle. So, thinking the floors might be rotted to hell, I pulled the carpet and the other stuff below it. Not so much. 
Now, which is which exactly? Is the jute stuff the sound deadener, is the rubber the heat insulation? or visa versa? I'll take pics and put them on the rabbit thread: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3939331



_Modified by cabrlicious at 2:15 PM 7-18-2008_


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (cabrlicious)*

I would love to be going to Waterfest, but funds have been in short supply to get any further with this thing. I'm still waiting on tires, lol! I missed the local early-summer big show, Bug Out, and it looks like I may miss the end-of-summer Bug Out as well.








Thanks for the kind words. This thing has turned into a real labor of love; two ways, since the car is for the One I love







. Awwwwwww..... But I also decided before this build got underway, that this car is a keeper. When you have a keeper, you want to do things right. 
On the airbag/glovebox. Maybe you had heard 'don't do that' in reference to an _upper_ glovebox? The lower one in no way interferes with the airbag, although you do have to trim part of the dash rebar on US cars. This is the second glovebox install I've done. Trim the rebar, drill three holes, and that's it. Super simple.
Yeah the 3M spray, lol, I discovered it in design school int he early '90s. I never did understand 3M 90. I think it's just 77 with a different tip! Works great on a lot of stuff, but I've never had good luck with it on headliners. I only recently discovered 3M trim adhesive, in the little orange tube http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Good stuff. 
I couldn't link to your thread, but it seems to me the jute and the rubber pads, and the tar strips, all do about the same thing. Reduce vibration and/or absorb sound waves. I guess they have a thermal effect too, especially around the firewall and tunnel.


----------



## DaddyOfPayton (Feb 24, 2004)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RabbitsKin* »_On the airbag/glovebox. Maybe you had heard 'don't do that' in reference to an _upper_ glovebox? The lower one in no way interferes with the airbag, although you do have to trim part of the dash rebar on US cars. This is the second glovebox install I've done. Trim the rebar, drill three holes, and that's it. Super simple. 

No, VWoA actually issued a TSB saying not to retrofit european or later model gloveboxes. I have done 5 of them, and can't see how it would affect the airbag at all, since it is mounted almost a foot away from the glovebox, and it fires forward, not down. I did it on my daily without a second thought. Perhaps they were worried you would cut airbag wires by accident, or they were covering up from a possible lawsuit for leaving them out in the first place?


----------



## cabrlicious (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RabbitsKin* »_I only recently discovered 3M trim adhesive, in the little orange tube http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Good stuff.

?? is this stuff for exterior moldings and such ??
link fixed -> http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3939331


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (cabrlicious)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cabrlicious* »_
?? is this stuff for exterior moldings and such ??



This stuff. Looks like a red tube in the pic, but I would swear mine is orange. I found it works great for tacking cloth/leather/vinyl down in strategic places. It has sort of a rubber cement consistency, so it is possible for it to soak into the fabric if you use too much. Dries pretty quick.


----------



## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

I have no experiences with the trim adhesive, but I use the snot outta the weatherstrip adhesive installing seals at work! Lots of spray adhesive use, as well. All good stuff! 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif on a very thorough project! I still ahven't decided on saound material, but probably will since I scraped up all the tar paper for rust repair!! Don't want to add too much weight back in, though. There's other goodies planned to add weight, and i want to keep it reasonably light, but still reasonably comfortable as a daily. Gaahhhh!! Compromises are so hard!!


----------



## Mars Noble (Apr 22, 2001)

*Re: (YJSAABMAN)*

subscribed. great stuff. your local too, so i'd like to e able to see this car in person soon or get some advice. kudos.


----------



## kingslinky (Sep 13, 2007)

any progress for the front turn indicators? 
i had a similar idea but kind of gave up.
found some of these








ebay 12v led strip (waterproof)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...l1318
and planned to cut some strips out of these:








camaro smoked tailight covers
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...sting
the plastic is flexible but it would be a problem tying to get it to stay without plastic welding in all kinds of brackets.


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (kingslinky)*

No progress on those yet, but I like the Camaro lenses there, hmm...


----------



## cabrlicious (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*


----------



## Ripdubski (Aug 12, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (RabbitsKin)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RabbitsKin* »_Here is a neat trick if anyone happens to be installing a lower glove box. 

Starting with just the lid, carefully removed from the shell:









Get some nice black felt, cut slightly oversize. _Precisely_ cut a hole in the felt where the little divider rib is going to stick up through. This takes a little practice, depending on your manual dexterity







. I measuread and drew it out as a template on a piece of paper first, lightly glued it to the felt, then cut out the hole with a ruler and an X-acto knife:









The idea is to make the slot look as factory as possible. Using 3M Spray 77, glue the felt in place. I saved the gluing of the folded-over parts for later. Now the tricky part -- working around the edge, tuck the felt into the little seam in the glovebox door. I had to use a couple of small screwdrivers and the back of the X-acto blade. It's a tight gap. 









But it looks great when it's all done! In the corners I used a little bead of glue, and you can see where some of it seeped through the felt, so be careful. Here is the finished product installed. It is a little touch that no one but you will notice. But at least now your tire gauge and sunglasses won't be rattling around in there as much







. 









Sweet! Thats next on my list... Wish I had seen that a couple of months ago when I replaced the lock and handle...


----------



## vanaman (Aug 26, 2003)

*FV-QR*

i might have to do that one day. but as of right now keeping my POS **** running is on the top of the list.
steve


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (vanaman)*

I've got the dash all put back together and the console in place. As we speak, I am working on the doors and interior trim. Slowly coming back together. More pics hopefully soon. 
I decided not to fill the a-pillars and roll bar with expanding foam, for now, in the interests of GETTING THIS THING DONE.







I'm sure most of you can relate. I still have to tackle the lights/turn-signals and that is going to take some fabrication.


----------



## kingslinky (Sep 13, 2007)

I've been looking into *Transparent Thermoplastics*. One can buy them buy the sheet, cut to specs, place into Jig mold, and perma-form with a heat gun
you could probably mount the strip to the back of the custom plastic welded panels?








http://www.86pvc.com/PVC_sheet...8.htm

edit
MIL-P-8257 Polyester Base, Cast Transparent Sheet, Thermosetting
or
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
* ACRYLIC SHEETS - EXTRUDED - Plexiglass *









"Acrylic (plexiglass) offers high light transmittance and can be easily heat-formed without loss of optical clarity. "
BINGO! BAM WHAM THANK YOU MAM!
they custom cut sheets small enough for the turn signal strips too. a smoked tint is also available.
http://www.professionalplastic...RUDED
_Modified by kingslinky at 7:16 PM 7-30-2008_


_Modified by kingslinky at 7:19 PM 7-30-2008_


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (kingslinky)*

I had a similar idea which I think I'm going to try. ACRYLIC BLOCKS. As long as I can find some 1/2" stock, I can shape those things any way I want. Then drill out the back with recesses for the LED strip lights http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif.


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

Couple of recent shots:

Got the console in:









Got the header/a-pillar seals back in place. That was a job. I didn't chronicle the process with pictures, but anyone who wants to know how to do this job, just contact me and I'll walk you through it: 









RaamMat in the door:









Replacement vapor barrier attached with double-sided foam tape, came out nice:









Finally solved the issue of what to do about the uppermost clip for the door card. This one has a square hole in the door, and a different base piece for the clip (which I don't have). Dealership can't seem to figure out what I need either, plus no luck searching through the archives here for a part number. I used to have a couple of these things, but oh well. My improvised solution is this square snap-in license plate screw thingy. I'll have to attach the rest of the actual clip with a screw, so that the slide-on piece will still fit, but I think it will work:











_Modified by RabbitsKin at 10:15 AM 6-20-2009_


----------



## polskigti4 (Aug 3, 2003)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

black carpet looks good with the beige trim...nice contrast http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## kingslinky (Sep 13, 2007)

right on about sanding acrylic blocks, but would you lose optical clarity? I guess with the right amount of sanding and plastic polish anything can happen!

more fun with plastics:

from
http://www.rplastics.com/lexan....html
"Lexan Thermoclear Polygal Multi-Wall Sheet" 
3mm-10mm thickness
Im not sure of the flexibility of corrugated 
polycarbonate sheets, but those ridges offer 
some nice space and geometry to break up a 
standard LED strip light pattern.
as an homage to: 












_Modified by kingslinky at 11:07 PM 7-31-2008_


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (kingslinky)*

Definitely some good possibilities there http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I never have liked the standard look of an LED strip.


----------



## cabrlicious (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: (kingslinky)*

How hot do you need to get acrylic to bend it? 
You know, I'm looking for a better way to mount the door cards. I want to screw them in, because a few clips on each door are busted and I'm not satisfied with the 'lego' method of attaching it. Sooner or later I'll end up doing this.. any suggestions?


----------



## tmack (May 7, 2004)

bump!


----------



## Jakeqb8 (Feb 24, 2008)

*Re: (tmack)*

so far so good man, car is coming together real nice, i think the r8 leds wood be a good feature in the gap where you extended to lower gap line on the front bumper. Good luck on the rest of the car


----------



## vanaman (Aug 26, 2003)

*FV-QR*

you will regret the center console. once you spill anything you will have a stickmess you cant wipe out like normal mk3's
steve


----------



## fiftyred (Aug 3, 2008)

*Re:*

Nice build so far! +1 I'd keep the felt in the glovebox and not the center console, at least not the cupholders.


----------



## d1rtyj4k3 (Feb 25, 2007)

*Re: Re: (fiftyred)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (vanaman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vanaman* »_you will regret the center console. once you spill anything you will have a stickmess you cant wipe out like normal mk3's
steve

You'd think so, but not really. I've had it this way in my Jetta for over a year w/no problems. #1, most drinks won't fit in there anyway. #2, the only drink that will fit in there has a top. I thought it would be a problem, but it hasn't. Worst case, I would have to peel out the felt and stick it back down, which is pretty easy.


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (RabbitsKin)*

Long overdue update. I've been working on replacing the top, here are some of the highlights. Took a lot more pics, maybe do a DIY thread when it is all done. I'll skip all the detail shots that I used to help me figure out how it all goes back together







. Suffice it to say there are a lot of little rivets and screws, and it would be very easy to mess up the install without good documentation. 
Some of the carnage:
Old vinyl top removed:









Some of the padding had become un-attached to the top bow:









The circled area is where a drain hole is supposed to be. Now is a great time to check for clogs: 









Plenty of accumulated grunge had founds its way into the rear tray over the years: 









This is where my side cables were supposed to be attached, I discovered they had rusted out long ago:









Taking the rear window out of the seal, carefully. Wife's Pampered Chef plastic scraper works well for this, hope she doesn't find out

























New canvas top from AA Best, attached to the rear brace. It was a MAJOR PAIN trying to slot the corded seam of the top into the channel of this aluminum extrusion. Think putting a curtain rod through some curtains and you'll get the idea. It takes one person pulling, one pushing, and some lube to keep things slippery. All while keeping the top aligned with the channel so it doesn't pinch or rip, with the top flopping this way and that. We used Simple Green and lithium grease as lubricants, being very careful not to get any grease on the top. 

















New top going on: 









I attached the rear brace and decided to let it stretch out for a few days before gluing and screwing the rest of the top:


----------



## stylngle2003 (Oct 2, 2004)

haha, i have two of those scrapers at home, came with pizza stones. 
i may have missed it, but what kind of material did you use to isolate vibrations on the glovebox lid? i'd like to do this on my cars, but don't know what to look for.
this is an awesome build! you certainly have an incredible attention to detail. props to you, fellow VA resident!


----------



## V.R.6.i.c.k (Nov 1, 2004)

very nice work


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (V.R.6.i.c.k)*

Lol, pizza stone scrapers FTW! You can also see in this pic through the glass, one of three layers of RaamMat sound deadener I used on the back shelf. Talk about a natural drum, that shelf must have been a huge source of noise before.


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (stylngle2003)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stylngle2003* »_what kind of material did you use to isolate vibrations on the glovebox lid?


It's just black felt, got it from JoAnn Fabrics.


----------



## stylngle2003 (Oct 2, 2004)

very cool, thanks. i'll check them out


----------



## Vanagon-S (Mar 21, 2004)

*Re: (stylngle2003)*

I think that window seal comes out from the inside, rather that prying the glass out of the seal. 
I have to agree with you on running the bead around the aluminium holder. 
Great build! I love seeing guys that actually show progress in their build threads. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (Vanagon-S)*

Yeah you can do it both ways. I'll be putting it in the opposite way....seal around glass first, then the whole thing into the frame. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## vanaman (Aug 26, 2003)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

on your new top is the rear top seam sewn or is it heat sealed like oem?
steve


----------



## BlueDevilCabby (Jul 6, 2006)

*Re: (vanaman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vanaman* »_on your new top is the rear top seam sewn or is it heat sealed like oem?
steve

Wouldn't a canvas top be sewn and a vinyl top be heat sealed?


----------



## vanaman (Aug 26, 2003)

*Re: (BlueDevilCabby)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BlueDevilCabby* »_
Wouldn't a canvas top be sewn and a vinyl top be heat sealed?

my top is canvas and there isnt a stich on that rear seam. so im just curious.
steve


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (vanaman)*

On mine, the canvas had a reinforcing vinyl strip sewed on the outside, encompassing the cord and covering about the last inch of canvas.


----------



## DubPhreek (Apr 17, 2003)

*Re: (kingslinky)*

FYI, I saw these at Harbor freight for 7.99, either blue or red.


----------



## cabrlicious (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RabbitsKin* »_
Finally solved the issue of what to do about the uppermost clip for the door card. This one has a square hole in the door, and a different base piece for the clip (which I don't have). Dealership can't seem to figure out what I need either, plus no luck searching through the archives here for a part number. I used to have a couple of these things, but oh well. My improvised solution is this square snap-in license plate screw thingy. I'll have to attach the rest of the actual clip with a screw, so that the slide-on piece will still fit, but I think it will work: 


door clips are the bane of my existence. I will not rest until I come up with more satisfying way of attaching door cards. If you look through the service receipts from my car's previous owner, you will find her billed for door clips --- yet --- half of them are busted or loose. 

_Quote, originally posted by *RabbitsKin* »_
#1, most drinks won't fit in there anyway.

 
Exceptions: can of soda, small coffee.
I don't even think a water bottle will fit there. That's why I grabbed a center console from a jetta .... fit my one cup for me, no cups for passengers!
so ah, did you finish re-topping your cabrio? how much was your new material?  I'm in the midst of a VR6 swap in my car







I'm dying to tear into everything else ... but first things first... gotta get the motor in... as it happens I'm short a bolt or ten.








by the way, what was your OEM paint code?


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (cabrlicious)*

Yeah the top is installed, except for the rear window. My new seal just came in, so I plan to tackle that in a few days. That thing was a real bugger to install. I consider myself to be above-average in skill and patience, and it took copious amounts of both! Pretty happy with the way it is turning out though. 
The door clip trick did work out well. Of course it only works on the square hole using the license plate clips. I cut the 'triangular' part off of a standard door clip, drilled an appropriate-sized hole in it, and screwed it to the license plate clip. The 'slider' piece attaches as normal. Seems to hold much stronger than the original. Too bad the license plate clips won't work in round holes.


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

Some progress pics using a crummy camera. 
I got the top completely installed except for the back window, and boy was that thing ever tight. I couldn't even get it to close at first. After stretching out for like a week in the garage, I figured it had settled enough to install the rear window. I've never done this before, so it was a learning experience. 
First I chalked the window frame's position on the outside of the top. The top corners didn't want to stay put, so I invented the 'soccer ball trick' to keep them in place. 

















My first attempt at stapling resulted in the window frame being crooked by about 1/2". Luckily I only had about 30% of the staples in when I realized the mistake. So I had to remove all those and start over, but it could have been a lot worse!








So the lesson here is BE VERY CAREFUL when measuring the frame location, and don't assume the straps on the inside will hold it square. 

















Tools used:









The dotted lines were already on the top, haha, they weren't even close to where the real window frame was located. This time I put a couple of staples in each corner to hold the frame in place. Then checked and double-checked all the measurements before stapling the rest:









Stapling was a real chore. Not only does it take a while to get the 'knack' of it, but if your angle is even slightly off, one leg of the staple will just bend out of the way instead of penetrating into the frame. After stapling, none of the staples would seat all the way down on their own. This meant having to set them one by one with a hammer and a chunk of steel. It was slow and laborious, but ended up looking like this:








I noticed that stretching the material into the corners causes wrinkles, so my solution was to staple the straight parts first, then cut out the opening and tackle the corners. I should mention that easily half of these staples had to be pulled out and redone before I was satisfied. Plan to spend some time on this phase, it probably took me a couple of hours total. 









More pics to come later today of the window install. 




_Modified by RabbitsKin at 10:22 AM 6-20-2009_


----------



## 602crew (Aug 21, 2002)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

That would have been awesome, (but not safe) to leave it with no back window.


----------



## vanaman (Aug 26, 2003)

*Re: (602crew)*

even if there is a slight wrinkle it should even out becasue it still needs to streach some.
steve


----------



## ExklusivVR6 (Aug 6, 2007)

*Re: (vanaman)*

When you consider all the time you put into installing a top I have to ask.... would you do it yourself again or pay the $600 or so to have it professionally done??


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (ExklusivVR6)*

I gave a lot of thought to that very question. Although I could have done this in a few days, I elected to let it stretch out over a month so I could think about each step. That said, I learned that there are so many nuances to this job, I don't think I would trust anyone else to do it. Isn't that crazy? Unless they already had lots of experience with these tops.
I've seen the kind of work that most places do, lumps and wrinkles and all. If I had $600 burning a hole in my pocket, it would be tempting, but I can rest easy that this job probably turned out better than taking it to a shop.


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

Some more pics. 
Here is the trick to installing the rear window. Put the window rubber around the glass first. Then install some weedeater string, or some nylon twine into the groove in the seal. Place it from the outside and have someone stand outside the car and put pressure on it. Carefully peel the string along, working the seal as you go. I had to forcibly adjust the window left/right and up/down a little now and then. 









Finished top:









Finished installing the interior today http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif. Took the car on a trip around the neighborhood, sans windshield, just to make sure everything was working right. 

Collecting all the interior pieces took a long time. Most of it came from a wrecked car. Door cards, knee bars, carpet, headrests, e-brake, and other bits and pieces came from different sellers via the classifieds or eBay. I wasn't able to find a set of tan 3.5 seatbelts, and I am still collecting parts for the red/blue lighting. 

























I had some extra logos left over from the side badges, so I made these black door badges by simply painting the reflectors. They turned out pretty cool, at least until my 12 year old scuffs them with her shoes.


----------



## Johann_VW (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

looks goodd!!!!!
keep the good workk


----------



## BlueDevilCabby (Jul 6, 2006)

that interior is CLEAN!


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (BlueDevilCabby)*

Oh, just to report, it seems like the sound deadening and rattle-control methods are working out _fantastic_. I can't make a final judgment until the windshield is in and I can drive it around with the windows _up_, but so far it literally feels like a new car.


----------



## cabrlicious (Jan 27, 2008)

could you make an estimate as to how much money you've thrown at this car thus far?


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (cabrlicious)*

A lot. I'm going to guess $5K so far, just for the work covered in this thread. Other than the initial purchase, I had previously put money into all new suspension, brakes, and exhaust, plus basic maintenance items.
All told, I could have just saved and bought a really nice, newer cabrio, but where would be the fun in that?







We decided before this project began that the car was a 'keeper', it is kind of the perfect combination of size, comfort, and coolness that we like. 



_Modified by RabbitsKin at 4:22 PM 9-19-2008_


----------



## stylngle2003 (Oct 2, 2004)

very nice! the black carpets and seatbelts are a nice contrast to the tan. and i really like the emblems you painted up. very clean


----------



## cabrlicious (Jan 27, 2008)

so what's new here? anything to speak of?


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (cabrlicious)*

Just got the go ahead from the Significant Other to purchase the tires and new windshield. Running out of money stinks!


----------



## cabrlicious (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

running out of money > chasing down a short circuit and/or bad wiring job 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4055924


----------



## Flavo Cadillac (May 7, 2003)

*Re: (cabrlicious)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif thumbs up approval from me. the car looks beautiful and i've been watching the thread for awhile now. 
pretty soon you'll see mine too. im working on some things now.


----------



## stofficer2 (Mar 22, 2007)

*Re: (Flavo Cadillac)*

Looks like you are going to make me have to rip apart my girlfriend's cabrio soon....















Looks great man, keep up the good work!


----------



## cabrlicious (Jan 27, 2008)

My car works now. ..Except the clutch gets mushy.. arg.. I think it's the pressure plate, whatever, I'll get that taken care of soon enough. 
So more importantly, what exhaust is on this car? Sticking with stock wheels? 
I didn't notice till just now, but man that antenna really was a good move for your front end look. Makes the car look stylish like a merc or beamer or something. When people see your car, they're gonna say "that's a nice car, I wonder what it is..." I just noticed too that your car is manual. 5 speed for the win! convertible without manual is like ... a jelly sandwich. it's peanut butter jelly time!
Where's your bumper? Still sittin on it? Did you think of anything for the blinkers? I was 100% sure I was going to put the smoked ecode version of the cabrio dual chamber lights in my car. Then, I saw a jetta with modified lights that looked really cool, and dare I say different. I'm contemplating getting a mk4 style set of plastic lights so I can open them up and change around things.... as far as using a light in there for my blinker and all that. 
Now I'm undecided on the head lights. But let me tell you something, I had no friggin clue how much of a difference cleaning your grounds has on headlights. I cleaned the grounds under the battery a few days ago in a fruitless effort to convince my right blinker to work. It did nothing to fix that issue, though it got fixed later. Tonight, my friend rolls up to my car and goes, woah what kind of lights are in your car? I was like... uh... the [factory] ones it came with when I bought the car ~2 years ago. He's like.... You got your high beams on? ... No ... [i flick them on] ... [a collective Woah] ... Hey what do you know, cleaning your grounds makes your lights brite!
Oh, and what's that in your garage? a mk3 golf?
Why is it that you must have cabrio fenders instead of using golf/jetta replacements?


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (cabrlicious)*

Thanks for the kind words everyone. I backed it out of the garage yesterday, and there is actually new-car-smell inside! Must be the top.
The wheels are going to be these oldschool OZ / MSW's. 16's with a near perfect offset







. I was finally able to order the tires a few days ago, I decided to go with Falken Ziex 912's, 205/45/16. The suspension isn't low enough for a 205/40 I don't think, besides which, this is my wife's car and I want to make the ride as quiet and comfortable as possible within reason. 

















The exhaust is a Bosal/Brospeed which we put on a few years ago. It looks and fits beautiful, but one of my complaints with it is high speed drone. This was part of the reason behind all of my noise reduction efforts a few pages back. 
Yes the front bumper is still off. I've been a little lazy getting the lights done, but here is the plan: I have a set of eCodes that will donate their clear lenses. And I have the original dual-chambers that I will use as a base, mostly likely grafting in some projectors. The LED turn signals are still a figment of my imagination at the moment







but I think I've worked out exactly how to do it. 
The other car in the garage is a MKIV GTI. It is basically a street / track car that has never seen the track. When this cabrio is done, I have to start back in on the GTI. It will be getting sold soon I think.


----------



## cabrlicious (Jan 27, 2008)

Cool. I'd love to see what you do with the polycarbonate lights. I really like the glass lights that came with my car .... to me glass = quality or something, i dunno







i always see the plastic lights fogged up... but ... I still think they look superior.


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (cabrlicious)*

Glass man is showing up this morning for the windshield. 
Woohoo!


----------



## cabrlicious (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

So what's new here?
I just ordered my bushing kit. Trying to determine what kind of strut bearing/mount I have. I think I'm gonna bust out the impact gun tonght.


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

Glass man came, windshield got put in. Surprise surprise, the bracket on the windshield was for the NA mirror, not the German cabrio mirror. I do recall asking them to double check that for me, but oh well. I ended up installing a Jetta mirror from the junkyard...which weighs practically nothing compared to the cabrio part. Something to do with vibration I bet....
I finally got the tires and wheels mounted, with the spacers out back and NOS center caps. I'll get some pics when this cold snap passes, but it looks _sweet_. 
Couple things left to do, 1) finish my rad support and get the front end bolted back together, 2) fabricate my turn signals (got the plan, ordering the parts), and 3) decide which projectors to retrofit into my headlamp housings. Step 3 is going to most likely happen in the Spring, I'll just run my regular lights until then. 
One thing I wasn't expecting with this build....when I sit in the car with the windows and the top up, there is _new car smell_. Oh yeah http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif And when the doors shut there is a nice dull *thud*.


----------



## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif














Love the red/tan combo! Will miss it on mine when it goes back to the original green. Very well done!


----------



## cabrlicious (Jan 27, 2008)

new car smell. cool beans. I still remember how my car smelled when I got it.. the lady who had it had a yankee candle company apple cinnamon with a coconut smelling tree. awesome combo... gotta get them again so i can remember how my car was when I just got it. 
do tell about your turn signals!


----------



## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (cabrlicious)*

Bump because I need a kick in the but to finish this thing! Now that the weather is cold and wet, it's hard to be as motivated.








Been slowly working on the rad support, and it's ready for paint. Cheap out and paint it black myself, in the _get her done_ spirit? Or schlep it back to the paint shop an hour distant to have it sprayed red?


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

Long overdue update. The car is done and on the road! I did a late-December push to get it done for the wifey as a Christmas present. On the rad support, I ended up spraying it black myself, plus clear over top. Extremely pleased with the results, will post up more pics when I get around to it. 
















For those that have followed this thread, let me say that careful assembly and attention to detail _payed off in spades_ with this build. Feels and drives like a new car, or at least a new car of 1995! The sound deadening really did the trick, no more drone at all. You still are definitely aware it has a stainless exhaust system, but in a pleasant way. I can still hear air rushing over the roof at speed, something I wasn't sure would ever go away, now I can chalk it up to simply having a soft top. 
There were a few teething troubles with the car, which became apparent in the first few days. The first was tire/fender rubbing in the left rear, whenever I would hit a bump. It was rubbing at about the 10 o'clock position on the fender lip. So I got to measuring and realized the whole rear axle was shifted to the left, with 1/2" more space on the right. I got under there and loosened all the bolts, turns out the holes are slotted to allow for some adjustment. Unfortunately even tapping with a rubber mallet on the frame, I was only able to get about 1/8" of movement to the right. BUT, I was also able to get about 3/16" of movement _toward the rear_. Basically shifted the whole axle back slightly. Finally, I used the rubber mallet to slightly roll the fender lip in the affected area. The changes worked, no more rubbing. And this car isn't even that low, I can't imagine what the really low guys go through.
A HUGE pain in the neck was fitting the front bumper. After being assured by everyone that it would fit over the NA rebar, I finally gave up trying and ordered a euro rebar from BFI. After the necessary trimming and massaging, I finally got it to bolt on. But it still _doesn't quite_ sit all the way flush with the wheel well on one side. Not enough that most people would notice, but enough to bug me. Then came the Euro duckbill lip, har har. After wrestling with that thing for an hour, I realized it was about an inch _too wide_ to properly fit all of the snap tabs. I would get it all installed except for one end; then popping it in place would cause the lip to come loose somewhere else. Ultimately I trimmed over an inch of material away in the middle where the two halves meet; then massaged some of the snap clips; and THEN still had to screw one of the corners to the bumper from underneath.







I suppose this is the price one pays for using non-original 'euro' parts. 
Local dubber and ace photographer Matt Lofton snapped a pic the other day driving down the road. I'm going to steal his bandwidth







:








So I have a "to-do" list, some things I haven't gotten to yet, some are fixes:
1) e-code lenses (already have) with some kind of custom projector setup, probably
2) still haven't built the LED turns, but they are coming
3) have a wood steering wheel to install, with a little twist








4) need to actually thread the gearshift lever for the knob
5) need to adjust the passenger side window so that it doesn't pinch the seal
6) haven't located a stereo I like yet
7) have assembled about 3/4 of the red/blue interior lighting, need the rest
8) hood struts
9) have a 268 cam and mk4 intake/exhaust mani combo to install at some point. 




_Modified by RabbitsKin at 11:26 AM 1-23-2009_


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## '97BLKVR6 (Jun 21, 2006)

Wow! Nice Job! I'm diggin' the wheels!


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## ChillMobbin (Jun 5, 2008)

*Re: ('97BLKVR6)*

yea! looks really good http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## LincolnLogs (Jan 25, 2009)

*Re: (chingus)*

Looks fantastic, you did a great job








My dad's giving me his beat up cabrio, same year as yours, for my first car. I'm not complaining, it's great and I love driving manual. However, I would like to improve the interior a bit, beacuse as I said its a bit beat up. Specifically, I would like to get new seats,and I love the look of yours. I think you mentioned you got most of your parts from old cars, but I didn't see if you mentioned from where you got your seats. They don't look like old seats...
If you could tell me, I would appreciate it alot, since both my dad and I are novices at rebuilding a car.


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (LincolnLogs)*

They were out of a low mileage late model Cabrio 3.5, 2000-2002. It took me a while to piece together that interior, because the junkyard I got the seats from wouldn't sell me the door cards or the dash pieces. 
Sounds like a fun project!


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## LincolnLogs (Jan 25, 2009)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

I think it will be.
Can I ask how much you payed for the seats? And also, did you not have to do any retrofitting, the seats from the 2003 cabrio fit perfectly into the 95 one?


_Modified by LincolnLogs at 11:55 PM 1-25-2009_


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (LincolnLogs)*

Sorry I didn't notice your post. It's been a while, but the best deal I scored was for all the seats, the console, ebrake, shifter, rear side panels, and sill panels, all for about $300 or so from a junk yard up in PA. It was the deal of the century, since the wrecked car had _just_ been delivered to the yard -- it had low miles and hadn't been molested yet. Bad part of that deal was the yard wouldn't let me remove the parts, so of course I ended up missing some clips and things. 
The knee bar, glovebox, and kick panels came from a Vortexer, along with some door seals iirc, ended up being about $120 I think for that stuff. 
The door cards I got seperately, one was from a Vortexer, I think I ended up having to pay about $140 or so with shipping (!). Yeah, that one was painful, but they were so hard to find. The other one came from a distand junk yard, ended up only costing me about $75. 
Let's see, the carpet and a few miscellaneous bits came from a 40K-mile car from Blake at that yard in Indiana that specializes in V-dubs, they are on ebay and advertise on here frequently. It was about $60. The head rests came from a matched set of 4 that I scored at a local junk yard for really cheap. Ended up selling the other two and actually making money on that deal. 
So yeah, I'm looking back at everything and it really ads up. I've got around $800 into it for the major items. More if you count miscellaneous parts that I bought new, like the grab handle covers, one chrome latch, various clips and things. 

Edit: Oh, as far as fitment, you don't have to do anything. All of this stuff is a direct swap into your car. If you decide you wouldn't mind pre-99 style interior, I"m getting ready to post up my old interior soon. It's a complete tan leather interior from a '98. Everything but the carpet. 


_Modified by RabbitsKin at 11:18 PM 2-7-2009_


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

*MAYDAY MAYDAY!! WE HAVE WATER IN THE COCKPIT!!*
Oh noes, I hope this doesn't turn into my worst nighmare. We've had several days of rain, and the cabrio has been parked outside because of work I'm doing in the garage. So just out of curiosity, I feel around behind the seat to see how well the new top and seals are holding up to the weather.....*and there's an inch of standing water in the rear floor!*















So now the whole interior has to come back out so I can properaly dry everything, and chase down the leak. I suspect it has something to do with the drain system at the rear of the top. There was something weird about the way the canvas attached around the drain funnel, and now I'm thinking I may have messed up. There is no leakage coming from the doors, or window seals.


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (RabbitsKin)*

Problem solved. The flap of the top material, where it lays on the inner wheelwell, has to be situated _outboard_ of the pinch weld. There is a built-in body drain. Mine wasn't, and water was dripping into the funnel area. The butyl caulk wasn't 100% sealed, and water was getting through it, ultimately collecting in the rear floor. 
Fixed the top flaps, added some more butyl caulk just in case, good to go http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## harveyrc2003 (May 29, 2006)

*Re: '95 Cabrio buildup -- a little flavr (RabbitsKin)*

Hey love the car was wondering how do u remove interior switches thanks.


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: '95 Cabrio buildup -- a little flavr (harveyrc2003)*

Well to be on the safe side I usually try to get that whole panel loose, then you can reach around from behind to pinch the tabs. Talking about the dash switches?


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## cabrio_kid (Jul 23, 2007)

*Re: '95 Cabrio buildup -- a little flavr (RabbitsKin)*

nice job!


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## jadelee (May 19, 2009)

*Re: '95 Cabrio buildup -- a little flavr (RabbitsKin)*

Looks very poor! Terribly poor.


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: '95 Cabrio buildup -- a little flavr (jadelee)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jadelee* »_Looks very poor! Terribly poor. 










Time for another update. If you followed this thread from the beginning, you may remember the bumper shave. I had left 1/2" slots in the front bumper for custom LED turn signals. Well this was long overdue, but I finally got off my butt and finished them off. 
More complete DIY thread http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4407950
Here was the original shave job....









Which looked like this once it was smooth....









And looked like this once it was painted:









So after a lot of thinking I finally came up with a plan. Using a set of amber all-weather LED strips from eBay, I mounted them to shine through the edge of a piece of clear 1/2" acrylic. There was a ton of cutting and fitting involved; to the acrylic and to the bumper. The most difficult part turned out to be the wiring, due to the low resistance of LED's, which result in a fast-blink with your standard blinker relay. Full story will be in the DIY thread.
The LED's and acrylic:








Finished units with resistor assemblies:








Installed:









End result is better than I expected. They fit just about perfect, are nice and tight, and blink like they are supposed to. Only drawback is they are not as bright as I expected. I may yet go back and polish the edges of the lenses to try to improve the brightness. My thinking was to diffuse the light a little for a more solid orange color. 
I was in a hurry taking the pics, and didn't get any with them lit up. More later. 



_Modified by RabbitsKin at 12:49 AM 5-27-2009_


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

*Re: '95 Cabrio buildup -- a little flavr (RabbitsKin)*

Good to see you finally get the signals done! It's the little original touches that many people will miss that make a project like this! O.E. Plus to the max!!


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: '95 Cabrio buildup -- a little flavr (YJSAABMAN)*

Night time shot:


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## mellbergVWfan (Jan 31, 2008)

*Re: '95 Cabrio buildup -- a little flavr (RabbitsKin)*

Wow those looks really nice and clean. You should take a faraway shot so we can see how bright they are.
amazing work http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## noludoru (May 14, 2009)

*Re: '95 Cabrio buildup -- a little flavr (RabbitsKin)*

Your Cabrio is _awesome._







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I read the whole thread, and I'm in awe of the time, effort, and attention to detail you put into it.


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## h4lfl1ng (Dec 17, 2007)

Great Job!! Love the lights, color and the sound dampening!! Great build! Props!


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## RabbitsKin (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: (h4lfl1ng)*

Just installed the stereo I've been saving for, a Nakamichi CD-400. I'll try to get some pics of that to post up soon. What a great-sounding system! I didn't do subs, and I'm running stock speakers, and the sound is still really good. Only question that is still bugging me, is which wire to tap for the amplified antenna base. I tapped into the ACC wire in the radio harness, but the wife says it still doesn't pull in stations very well. I'm sure the stubby antenna doesn't help







. 
I didn't want to draw power from outside the harness, like directly from the fuse panel or from the cigarette lighter, because the harness needed to be kept as simple as possible for me to preserve my sanity. It was difficult enough cramming everything in there as it was.


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## My_156cm_pickle (Sep 22, 2010)

wow i wish i had your patience and attention to detail. :thumbup: :thumb up:
great looking car man!


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