# ABA G60 swap notes



## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

Back from the grave, this 2003 thread has been requested a few times lately so i revived it with working pics.

Swapping a 1.8l PG g60 for the ABA 2.0l block 








The 1996 ABA motors do
not come with the oil quarters the PG block has. so
the machine shop should be able to port the ABA
block for them. new i paid $27 ea for the oil
squarters and $13 for 4 check seat bolts.
I believe the machine shop charged $100 to install.








For the breather I Use the Techtonics Block off plate
And tap it with an oil return fitting.









As for the Distributor if you are using the Digifant 
ECU then just swap the 2.0l dist. gear on to the g60
dist. and use the g60 dist. you will need the
adapter ring for the g60 dist. so it fits in the block
then just plug it in and go. 
As for the height difference on the alternator bracket that bolts to the head 
Just leave the bottom bolt out as shown
I suggest the BBM adjustable serpentine belt tensioner for ease of fitment

















If you are deleting the A/C just buy a VR6 water pump pully then reroute the serpintine belt around it.
With the longer stroke of the ABA of 92.8 mm
the 95- and older crank shafts are forged , but the later
models are cast and will not stand a boosted
application. just TAP the lobe of the crank with a
hammer, if you hear a high pitch ring it is a forged
crank. I had mine Knife edged and 3 dowel added for 
quicker higher revs and added >strength. 
recommend having them resized for ARP bolt
























>I decided to spend the $$ and get the JE forged pistons,
83mm 8.0-1 comp. Ratio. Well worth the money 
And total seal rings.
with the taller block means the 
2.0l down pipe will be needed. it just bolts up to the stock exhaust
manifold and cat converter.
The 8 v g60 head bolts right up I recommend using the ABA Head 
gasket and if you can find the early Diesel Rabbit head bolts. they are
alot cheaper and just as strong as ARP studs
The key to power is the flow any machine work around the valves and
ports help the counter flow head alot.

















I also Modified a Audi 5000 intake manifold for more volume 2000cc up from 1800cc









Clearance issues with the audi manifold In the Corrado I had to notch the wiper motor package tray and the hood Support at the throttle body.








I started with the Giac 4 with the stock intercooler 
using the Bahn Brenner Lysholm screw compressor at 12.5 psi . it ran real strong but have since Ditched the stock intercooler for a liquid intercooler from Overkill Performance 








And the Stage 4 BBM 310cc chip.
Right away it ran a lot smoother at idle, and Pull pull pull with the 272 276 cam it dynode at 192whp and 202wtq so far, with a Tourqe curve that’s starts at 150 wtq @ 1250 rpm and hit 200wtq at 3000rpm and doesn’t drop until red line .gotta love that supercharger. 
with 17psi and 310cc @ 8bar it hit 206whp 225wtq @ 2800rpm
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b4dc26b3127cced71b5ea0f7cf00000010O08AbuGrN
s1cNQe3nwo/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/









The swap has been relatively easy and have yielded great gains. The car is a dream to drive lots of power so a good transaxle is needed. So far I have bumped up the clutch pack for the added power with a VR6 pressure plate and a 6 puck foramic clutch dics from clutchnet.com and a Quaffie LSD 
i have also purchoused the Driveshaft Shop stage 3 Spring Torsional Axle for the Hard 13 sec 1/4 mile Launches.
Hope this helps anyone thinking of this swap.
















Since i went to more valves and Turbo the engine has made more power on the same old ABA block since 2002.
16v ABA Lysholm
















16v ABA Turbo
19psi








26psi


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## stntman (Sep 19, 2002)

The pics still arent working on this end. Bollucks!


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## G0to60 (Jun 23, 2003)

I can see all the pics.

Oh how I remember the scream of the charger. You could easily tell when he was coming down the road.


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## stntman (Sep 19, 2002)

how did you modify the audi manifold?


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## G0to60 (Jun 23, 2003)

I believe that the Audi 5000 is a 5 cyl. so he lopped off one of the runners and welded it up.


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## stntman (Sep 19, 2002)

thats what i thought, im still bummed that for some odd reason this weak ass computer wont show me the pics


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## sidewayscustoms (Mar 18, 2010)

i like seeing these older threads thanks for posting it back up.........

by the way nices toes


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## Volk14 (Oct 18, 2000)

Could anyone tell me, based on real experience, what's the most and reliable power the digifant 1 can handle? 

My goal is 300hp at the wheels from a 2.0 16vt. My Corrado was a G60 so the digifant 1 is still installed but I was wondering about the mk3 2.0 OBD2 fuel managment. I don't have the money for standalone at the moment.

I've been doing some research and can't find what I'm looking for. Anyone?

Thanks in advance for any help :thumbup:


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

Reliable whp on DIGI on a SC PG is 190whp range, I pushed 225whp for a few years.
16vSC digi 240whp I managed 262whp w/034efi.
16vT on OBDII i see 300-350whp relaible with the right turbo selection.

My 16vT setup runs pump gas and makes 458hp on 26psi at the track.
I Drive it daily at 20psi 350whp on pump gas no problem.
I don't think Digi can handle that it has a 1 bar MAP sensor and has to be chip burned to change the programming. the OBDII can be Flash reprogrammed to run 300whp. the limiting factor is the MAF sensor. very problematic.
I use 034efi 1C Wastespark system it uses a 4 bar MAP sensor.
:beer::beer:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4644926-NEW-Lets-see-your-16V-TURBO-16VT-with-SPECS!


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## Volk14 (Oct 18, 2000)

Repoman, thanks a lot for your input and time. Exactly what I've been searching for. 

I guess digi 1 is out of the equation then, it's really a no brainer. I'm going to look into that 034 system. Those numbers are inspiring. I bet my Corrado was not even close to 200 whp with the BBM screw compressor and it was blast to drive, I can't imagine over 400 whp 

Did you ever make a thread about your current setup and, do you have link to a video at the drag strip?

Thanks again :beer::thumbup:


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

yes it is a blast to drive and race. I can eat anything on the road.....
here are a few videos to enjoy. 
16v Lysholm street driving.




Drag strip




16vTurbo 




Drag strip





:beer::beer:


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## carrizog60 (Sep 13, 2003)

too bad that wasnt stock cr...
still waiting to see a 10:1 g60 review:sly:


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

It's alot safer to run lower compression ratio for pump gas and high boost... or
high boost and hot summer temps. 
keeps the pistons intacted.
Now that E85 is more readiely available higher compression ratios can be reliable but remeber
you burn 4x more E85 Ethanol then Gasoline. so thats 30% larger injectors required and more 
trips to the gas station.
BTW I have seen 700whp dynos of 10.5:1 16vT E85 setups
Don't know how long this engine lasted?
Now he has a 20v setup.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5021748-ABA-16v-700-whp&highlight=16v
:beer::beer:


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## carrizog60 (Sep 13, 2003)

its for a G60 setup,only 1 bar at redline lol


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## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

Hey guys, because this is the ABA G60 swap notes thread I need help.

Did my ABA G60 a while back and I could never get the timing marks to line up exactly right when I did the conversion. 

There are 2 dots on the cam, with the 2.0L timing belt it seems that the dots can only be a little above or a little below the valve cover housing mark.

The crank and dizzy line up fine but I cant get the damn thing to time with a timing light.

Just replaced the headgasket, which is why I now have this problem. I need some input for how to proceed while getting 6 degrees of advance.

What I did:

1. had the timing set with the dots slightly below the timing mark (IE the cam was advanced ever so slightly from what the bentley recommends). car idled fine, then pull blue CTS and it would climb relatively evenly, sounded like it was backfiring a little.

2. had timing set with the dots slightly above the timing mark (IE the cam was retarded a little bit). Car idled and revved fine, pull the blue CTS and it would climb in a very creative fashion, giving me a hassle, would hesitate to climb then climb rapidly.

Dont know which way is right even though I've had this car for 8 freaking years.

is the 2.0L timing belt the wrong belt? I seriously hate changing the belt on this car...and setting the timing


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## gamblinfool (Sep 28, 2001)

potatonet said:


> Hey guys, because this is the ABA G60 swap notes thread I need help.
> 
> Did my ABA G60 a while back and I could never get the timing marks to line up exactly right when I did the conversion.
> 
> ...


Get an adjustable cam gear... :thumbup:


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

I always used the G60 timing belt. the cam gear dots should line up with the leading edge of the valve cover. if you are in doubt remove the valve cover and make sure #1 cyl cam lobes are in
overlap facing up and #4 is in overlap facing down. with the #1 spark plug removed and a long
screwdriver rotate the engine until #1 is at TDC... Check Flywheel mark and crank pulley mark
I make sure the timing belt is tight on the leading side..i.e. front side of the cam gear. with the belt tight against the teeth tighten the belt tensioner.
with the blue CTS unplugged rev rpms above 3krpm 3 times. let rpm settle, set dist timing -6 to -8btdc. plug CTS back in and rev above 3krpm again, let rpm settle. go drive.
:beer::beer:


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## need4speed2345 (May 12, 2005)

For rods all you did was get oversized arp studs? You have a part #?


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