# engine missing while at cruise speed and low idle speed Runs Rich



## chuckwillsdad (Dec 9, 2008)

1995 2.0 5spd seems to miss while at cruising speed and rpms (2800) but stops missing when accelerator is applied . I use the term "miss" for lack of a better term but it does seems like ignition might be issue vs. fuel. This has been going on for three years and I dont pay attention to it and simply accerate a bit and then decelerate (car is daily beater to from work).It does not do all times but does happen when motor is at op. temp. I bought a used mass flo via ebay but no luck. Engine has always run very rich while cold..even back into 90's (yes Im original owner at 83K miles)


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## FL 2.0L (Aug 1, 2002)

Is it possibly the coil?


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## chuckwillsdad (Dec 9, 2008)

*Re: (FL 2.0L)*

thought about that ... will go look for some pricing. If anyone has other suggestions please chime in...thnks


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## FL 2.0L (Aug 1, 2002)

Have you done regular tuneup type stuff in the last 30-50K or so?


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## chuckwillsdad (Dec 9, 2008)

*Re: (FL 2.0L)*

have done plugs, plug wires, thats about it. could this be egr issue?


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## FL 2.0L (Aug 1, 2002)

Cap/rotor?
I'd guess no on the egr issue.
Have you tried to blink out codes? There is a way to jumper 2 pins on the obd connector to blink out codes. Is the cel on?


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## chuckwillsdad (Dec 9, 2008)

*Re: (FL 2.0L)*

have looked acap rotor. Have no idea how to apporach code issues??


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## twinscrewcaddy (Mar 27, 2008)

*Re: (chuckwillsdad)*

mines doing the same right now... i'm looking into the MAF sensor and the TPS... i know the coil/plugs/cap/rotor/ o2 sensor are all good.
on yours, try unplugging each sensor to see what change it makes while running. and look for vac leaks too.
mines swapped into a Mk1 though so i don't have a CEL or OBD plug!










_Modified by twinscrewcaddy at 7:55 AM 12-9-2008_


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## FL 2.0L (Aug 1, 2002)

http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty...x.htm


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## Moestradamus (Aug 16, 2005)

*Re:*

Same issue with my 2.0 95 5 speed. I have changed the coil pack, plugs, wires, cap/rotor. 
Sent it to a mechanic which ruled out the fuel pressure regulator / vac leak. 
My car when it sits for a while though will do something peculiar. It will start with a very rough idle for a few seconds, then smooth out after 30 seconds or so. The Exhaust will smell sweet like its running rich for a few seconds. 
It will also miss one or two cyl's on engine load only.
Could this be a timing issue? 
My mechanic said it may be related to the coolant temperature sensor. 
But I would like to think its timing related, like the timing belt jumped a tooth or something.


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## chuckwillsdad (Dec 9, 2008)

mine runs rich the first few minutes too. My timing is right where its supoosed to be.


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## Caleb (May 19, 1999)

*Re: engine missing while at cruise speed and low idle speed Runs Rich (chuckwillsdad)*

My dad has a '95 Jetta 2.0 ABA that does the same thing. We have ruled out. Coil, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coolant temp sensor, timing, and the EGR valve as we cleaned it. Oh and also there are no vac leaks and we swapped the TPS with a good one and the same thing happens so it is not that. I also have a VAGCOM which pulls up no codes.


_Modified by Caleb at 7:52 PM 12-28-2008_


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## Moestradamus (Aug 16, 2005)

*Re: engine missing while at cruise speed and low idle speed Runs Rich (Caleb)*

This is really nuts how hard this is to figure out. 
Any one check their MAF sensor? or try cleaning it with Zero Residue Cleaner to see if this helps the problem?


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## Moestradamus (Aug 16, 2005)

*Re: engine missing while at cruise speed and low idle speed Runs Rich (Caleb)*

Can you take a picture of your Coolant Temp sensor and how its connected for me? I am trying to get an idea if there is a way to mistakenly connect the coolant temp sensors.


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## FL 2.0L (Aug 1, 2002)

That is hard to do. The coolant temp sensor is 4 pin and the ac cutout is 2 pin.


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## 2.SlowMK4 (Jan 24, 2007)

*Re: (FL 2.0L)*

Have you checked the plugs and wires? I just worked on my cousins 95 Jetta with the similar symptoms. Wires and plugs were bad.


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## Moestradamus (Aug 16, 2005)

*Re: (2.SlowMK4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2.SlowMK4* »_Have you checked the plugs and wires? I just worked on my cousins 95 Jetta with the similar symptoms. Wires and plugs were bad.

Yeah we did...
I found an interesting Post:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4150659

_Quote, originally posted by *efritsch* »_ Well, after beating my head against several large, solid objects, I finally figured out why my car was running so poorly, and as such, I thought I'd share in case it happens to someone else.
My car would idle like a muscle car, just without the muscle. It ran real rough and studdered when not under WOT. It was running so rich it was trying to drown itself.
As I was playing with the idea of a bad coolant temp sensor (thinking constant cold start enrichment) I noticed that I could see exhaust gas coming up around the air box. I moved the air box and followed the flow to the exhaust.
It turned out that the port in the manifold that is supposed to be for the tube to sample pre-cat exhaust gases from was wide open. the tube has been long gone but someone previously welded the port closed. Apparently they welded it very poorly as the weld was now missing and as such, it was sucking in too much O2 and causing the car to over correct by flooding itself. I welded it back up, nice and solid and the car runs like a champ now.
So in short, louder exhaust and runing rough/too rich? Check that tube port! 

Anyone ever look into this?


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## Moestradamus (Aug 16, 2005)

*Re: (FL 2.0L)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FL 2.0L* »_That is hard to do. The coolant temp sensor is 4 pin and the ac cutout is 2 pin.


This one?








Or This?








Its funny they list the yellow one as "Water Temperature Sender
For Gauge & Fuel Injection, Black/Yellow 4 Pin "



_Modified by Moestradamus at 12:22 PM 12-29-2008_


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## FL 2.0L (Aug 1, 2002)

The first one is the one that affects mixture. GAP lists it for "temp gauge and ECM" or similar.


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## renngolf (Aug 25, 2005)

*Re: (FL 2.0L)*

I would change out the coolant temp sensor while you're at it anyway. It's cheap enough and if you are still on the original one it's bound to crap out on you down the road.
Normally if it goes bad you will have a hard time cranking the car over and once it catches it will idle hunt; half the time it will smooth out, the other half it will stall out. It will also cause your car to run rich on starts seeing as the ecu can't tell the temperature of the engine.
Also iirc on obd1's a bad cts wont throw a code while on obd2's it will.


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## Caleb (May 19, 1999)

*Re: engine missing while at cruise speed and low idle speed Runs Rich (chuckwillsdad)*

Anybody have any new info on this situation. Sounds like that is a LOT of people that have the same problem but nobody has figured it out yet.


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## vendettajetta (Mar 7, 2008)

*Re: engine missing while at cruise speed and low idle speed Runs Rich (Caleb)*

I had the exact same problem it turned out to be my cat. So I had it replaced, this was about a year ago, and the problem was gone. Now it decides to come back. So I am looking into my cat. Did plugs,wires,coolant temp sensor, maf sensor. I wonder if the FPR could have anything to do with it. I hope we figure this out!


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## jettaracer1989 (Jan 8, 2009)

*Re: engine missing while at cruise speed and low idle speed Runs Rich (vendettajetta)*

sounds like you could have a short somewhere, but look at it the auto-mechanic way, its either fuel/air, or spark (thats as long as its not knocking) you could just need a new fuel filter or injectors, my car is doing the same thing


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## lagolfadel97 (Jan 16, 2007)

*Re: engine missing while at cruise speed and low idle speed Runs Rich (jettaracer1989)*

same here, runs good but misfires when u take foot off pedal, ????


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## lagolfadel97 (Jan 16, 2007)

*Re: engine missing while at cruise speed and low idle speed Runs Rich (chuckwillsdad)*

has anybody fix this


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## Stg3G60 (Apr 7, 2008)

*Re: engine missing while at cruise speed and low idle speed Runs Rich (lagolfadel97)*

Bump up...I am having the same problem too and I dont have the money to just start replacing parts. Anyone have any ideas


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## lagolfadel97 (Jan 16, 2007)

*Re: engine missing while at cruise speed and low idle speed Runs Rich (Stg3G60)*

were all in the same boat.......


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## Tom222 (Jan 22, 2009)

I'v got the same problem since the begining of winter, at first I noticed my temp gaug was acting weird, I changed My thermostat and cts, tried another maf , sealed up any possible air leaks and the prob still persist, could it be o2 sensor related? Its running very rich.. My exhaust has some little leaks.
Any mechanics here to help?


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## Moestradamus (Aug 16, 2005)

*Re: (Tom222)*

Its the Coolant Temp Sensor.
Replace your coolant temp sensor and it will work.
On VW's they use the temperature of the coolant to determine how to mix the Air/Fuel.
And this is the reason why the problem for most people only start when it gets cold out. because the Temp sensor is not reading the correct temp and sends wrong information to the ECU. The ECU in turn sends the wrong info to the Fuel injectors putting the wrong mixture into the engine till the temperature of the engine gets just warm enough for the mixture to be viable for the engine to stop responding poorly. 
Its the Coolant Temp Sensor. 


_Modified by Moestradamus at 6:12 PM 1-22-2009_


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## Caleb (May 19, 1999)

*Re: (Moestradamus)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Moestradamus* »_Its the Coolant Temp Sensor.
Replace your coolant temp sensor and it will work.


I would disagree. I don't disagree with what you say about how it works but I do disagree with you saying replace the CTS and it will fix the problem. There is about 8 or more people on this single thread with the same basic problem most of which including myself have already replaced the CTS. If the CTS was the problem we would all be running good and not even be posting on this thread.


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## lagolfadel97 (Jan 16, 2007)

*Re: (Caleb)*

true.........


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## Stg3G60 (Apr 7, 2008)

*Re: (lagolfadel97)*

Ok, so i talked to the previous owner of my car (i just bought it). 1 year ago he changed out alot of stuff. He is what is new on my car, and the problem still exists.
the water pump, thermostat, coil assembly, ignition wires, spark plugs, Coolant flange and seal, Coolant temperature sensor
I just bought a new oxygen sensor that I will be putting in as soon as it gets here. I will keep you guys updated.
PS. If you need an oxygen sensor, check this place out, mad cheap.
http://www.onlinewholesaleparts.com/os003.html


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## Moestradamus (Aug 16, 2005)

*Re: (Caleb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Caleb* »_
I would disagree. I don't disagree with what you say about how it works but I do disagree with you saying replace the CTS and it will fix the problem. There is about 8 or more people on this single thread with the same basic problem most of which including myself have already replaced the CTS. If the CTS was the problem we would all be running good and not even be posting on this thread.

Always a critic.
What I am saying, is that I changed everything else, Then I changed the CTS, and now the car works fine.


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## lagolfadel97 (Jan 16, 2007)

*Re: (Moestradamus)*

no need to fight, we need to resolve.........


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## Tom222 (Jan 22, 2009)

, I think its the oxygen sensor


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## FateOne (Jan 30, 2009)

*Re: (Tom222)*

I'm having a similar problem to the original poster. Stumble at cruise fine when accelerating. I also have an O2 code which might make it seem cut and dry but the code can indicate a bad sensor OR an A/F problem beyond correctability, which can be just about freaking anything. It also runs like ass when I first start it worse in the winter and it SEEMS to be worse when it rains. I have to keep the RPMs up and its misfiring and really rich exhaust when first started. It's been starting like that for a few years. The O2 sensor code and stumble are somewhat recent.
I replaced the CTS as recommended here, cleaned the MAF sensor, and replaced plugs/wires. Going to try cap and rotor next and propane enrichment vacuum leak testing. I get good mileage (around 30mpg)....Open to suggestions.


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## Genuismensa (May 7, 2008)

my jetta is having the same problem. I put in new injectors, new cap, rotor, plugs, wires, MAF, Coolant temp sensor, Throttle body, head gasket, both O2 sensors, checked the cat, unhooked all the evap, new fuel pressure regulator, new coil. All of that didnt fix it... Idk what the hell is wrong but I gave up and just bought a new '09 GTI lol.


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## Stg3G60 (Apr 7, 2008)

*Re: (Genuismensa)*

I just replaced my top O2 sensor, seems like my mileage is better but not great yet. I got this recommendation form someone else on another post
I've fixed a few of these. Remove your top engine cover and directly to the left of the intake manifold is a piece of vacuum line going to the FPR. These dry up , shrink and crack over time causeing fuel issues as well as vacuum leaks which can cause misfires. Check that first. If that's the problem, be sure to replace it with a piece of line that's a bit longer than it needs to be to allow for "shrinkage". lol
Worth a shot.


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## jimivr6 (Feb 18, 2003)

*Re: (Stg3G60)*

as ive had the same problem for days. i have replaced the ecu. car drove like new for a month. problem returned again. i 've checked everything same issue. only thing thats left to check is the knock sensor. i think its air/fuel mix issue. i have a narrow band gauge on my car when under load , engine runs good but than goes full lean and sounds like its misfiring. when i get off the throttle it backfires at tail pipe. has anybody use a wideban o2 sensor. also somebody said this happens when it gets cold out. im in fl and dropped to 40*f it got worst. i dont know if its all the ethanol they put in the gas now. some stations put more than there suppose to. very common when price of gas was going up. will update if i come up with anything


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## jimivr6 (Feb 18, 2003)

*Re: (Stg3G60)*

ive had the same problem for days. i have replaced the ecu. car drove like new for a month. problem returned again. i 've checked everything same issue. only thing thats left to check is the knock sensor. i think its air/fuel mix issue. i have a narrow band gauge on my car when under load , engine runs good but than goes full lean and sounds like its misfiring. when i get off the throttle it backfires at tail pipe. has anybody use a wideban o2 sensor. also somebody said this happens when it gets cold out. im in fl and dropped to 40*f it got worst. i dont know if its all the ethanol they put in the gas now. some stations put more than there suppose to. very common when price of gas was going up. will update if i come up with anything


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## lagolfadel97 (Jan 16, 2007)

*Re: (jimivr6)*

everybody's working on this..........


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## jimivr6 (Feb 18, 2003)

*Re: (lagolfadel97)*

i'm gonna try the ecu pin out test thats in the bentley.


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## lagolfadel97 (Jan 16, 2007)

*Re: (jimivr6)*

mines cel light went off, and stop doin less misfire







any idea why i did this??


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## jimivr6 (Feb 18, 2003)

*Re: (lagolfadel97)*

did you scan your ?


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## lagolfadel97 (Jan 16, 2007)

*Re: (jimivr6)*

not now but did b4, code p0301


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *chuckwillsdad* »_1995 2.0 5spd seems to miss while at cruising speed and rpms (2800) but stops missing when accelerator is applied . I use the term "miss" for lack of a better term but it does seems like ignition might be issue vs. fuel. This has been going on for three years and I dont pay attention to it and simply accerate a bit and then decelerate (car is daily beater to from work).It does not do all times but does happen when motor is at op. temp. I bought a used mass flo via ebay but no luck. Engine has always run very rich while cold..even back into 90's (yes Im original owner at 83K miles) 


This is 1000% a faulty MAF issue. Buy a new one.
/thread


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## lagolfadel97 (Jan 16, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (tdogg74)*

that ive not try yet, the maf


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## jimivr6 (Feb 18, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (lagolfadel97)*

i tried another maf and same problem.


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## Stg3G60 (Apr 7, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (jimivr6)*

Try replacing vac lines. I talked to my local vw guru and he told me that the codes i have been getting are usually associated with a vac leak (seeing as how I already replaced the o2 sensor) I am going to just replace all mine this weekend. The lines are cheap and it cant hurt. I'll keep everyone posted.


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## FateOne (Jan 30, 2009)

I checked for vauum leaks with a propane torch with no luck, I'm leaning towards the egr being gunked up to the point that its not closing fully. Will yank that out saturday clean it out and report if that helps.


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## Stg3G60 (Apr 7, 2008)

*Re: (FateOne)*

excuse me if this makes me sounds stupid, but whats the egr?


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## FateOne (Jan 30, 2009)

Exhaust gas recirculation valve. When opened allows exhaust gas into the a/f mixture the exhaust gas is essentially inert after going though the combustion process already so it just kinda takes up space in the cylinder so you have less cumbustible air and fuel causing a lesser "explosion" saving fuel and lowering operating temperatures. Prone to carbon build-up, causing the valve to either be stuck open/closed/restricted.


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## VWLover1985 (Nov 19, 2008)

I have ran into this problem numerous times, with varies cars. Change the coolant temperature sensor. The 4 prong one.


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

so... test the CTS, MAF and O2 sensor. maybe someone can post up a way to test these rather than replace them?


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## ping138 (Aug 24, 2005)

i have the same problem


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## ping138 (Aug 24, 2005)

To be more specific- and may be you guys can help;
I just finished my build of a 2.0 ABA motor in my 1994 Jetta GL, it has had ever seal, gasket, ring, and stretch bolt replaced- but now thats its back in the car and running I cant get the timing right- i cut the small tabs off the distributor to make fine adjustments and bought a timing light but it was no help I can't even see the flywheel timing marks- when I start the car there is gray smoke that clears up in about 2 minutes and then it runs fine till the engine warms up at which pooint it does exactly what the other posters have described- hesitates, sputters at ceuise speed and very low rpm, then zooms back to life- for me the other big problem is that on the current tank of gas- 1/2 tank has only taken me about 77 miles, so I'm getting like 10 miles to the gallon...... I'm going crazy... what should i look at?? relpaced MAF with a newer one, new plugs, new wires, distributor cap and rotor.... I'm going to burn this car if I cant get it fixed- I have like $2000 into the motor rebuild and I wnat it to work right! help??!!??


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

i think it is very possibly the cts.
is the cts what actually displays on the dash or is there another sensor for that?
because my heat gauge on the dash doesnt work.


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## ping138 (Aug 24, 2005)

could the CTS relly be responsible for all these mishaps?? it that why it runs right when colder?? 
I wonder because I'm still getting like 12 mpg on gas and I pulled a spark plug and its covered in black carbon after only 400 miles since the full motor build up.... I think mine is just hopeless....



_Modified by ping138 at 9:14 PM 2-17-2009_


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## Caleb (May 19, 1999)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*

I am not 100% about this but I know on A2's the CTS is just for the ECU and there is a seperate sensor for the gauge. Each one is a two wire connection. I know on A3's the CTS is 4 wires so it may also operate the gauge in the car. Not sure I would have to look.


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

yeah maybe if someone could warm up their car and pull the cts plug and see if the heat gauge works.
my gas mileage is really bad as well too. im starting with: cts, plugs and and then maf. obviously if it can be troubleshooted first it would save some dough.


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## ping138 (Aug 24, 2005)

*Re: (twicepardoned)*

my temp gauge works fine- today maybe ill pull it and see what happens to the gauge when I do - my car is just a mess- 
have brand new plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor, also a new MAF as I said before so I really think its something else, I'm going to try the CTS and O2 sensor... anyone know where that gets connected in the engine harness??


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## Moestradamus (Aug 16, 2005)

*Re: (ping138)*

the CTS stands for (Coolant Temp sensor)
It connects via a Snap on connector.
The Oxy sensor is the same deal. Snap on connector. It goes from a bracket on the A3's downpipe to the Cat Converter. (Note on the Oxy sensor, dont get the oxy sensor without the connector, while cheaper, it will be nothing but trouble once you cut those wires. Stick with the oxy sensor with the connector.


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

anyone tried the tps (throttle positioning sensor)


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## michaelpanic (May 25, 2008)

*Re: 2.0 no cel 95 jetta III*

95 well lucky me i have the california emissions with the egr i capped it with 3/4 brass cap hehe both manifold and egr
anyway i have same issue as most not excel till about 4500 rpm
tried 2 differnt mass airflow senors still got maf code i dunno haven't replaced temputure thing just got all new exhaust oxygen sensor code cleared 
but still no cel


_Modified by michaelpanic at 12:43 PM 2-18-2009_


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## michaelpanic (May 25, 2008)

also on some older models i've seen the distributor cut the wires inside the spinning mental inside causing it to ground the ignition


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## michaelpanic (May 25, 2008)

*Re:*

1 more thing my throttle postion sensor wire broke in the connector that was hard to find
but still no cel


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## michaelpanic (May 25, 2008)

*Re: Re: (michaelpanic)*

http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty...g.htm 


_Modified by michaelpanic at 9:24 PM 2-18-2009_


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## Stg3G60 (Apr 7, 2008)

*Re: Re: (michaelpanic)*

Mines a mk4, so i know thats a lot different from a bunch of you, but I was getting crap gas milage and had a cel, even after i changed out my 02 sensor and everything else everyone has suggested. I changed all my vac lines this past weekend, and over a half tank, my mileage jumped to 29mpg, and thats not even all highway driving. So I suggest giving that a shot. I mean, you only need about 10 feet of line, and its less then a buc a foot.


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## twicepardoned (May 2, 2006)

*Re: Re: (michaelpanic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *michaelpanic* »_ http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty...g.htm 

_Modified by michaelpanic at 9:24 PM 2-18-2009_

Good post!


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## lagolfadel97 (Jan 16, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (tdogg74)*

change maf still the same, got to be the injectors


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

*Re: (Tom222)*

Look, the cars in question are 15 years old, or older. All of the parts discussed are suspect because of age, wear, and mileage.
There isn't any universal answer or single part that is going to fix everyone's car. If your car is one of the ones suffering from this problem, you need to start at one end, and go to the other. Odds are, it's going to take the replacement of a number or all of the mentioned parts to cure the problem. The PROBLEM could be the end result of a number of parts being out of tolerance (or even still being in tolerance), but with the accumulated total tolerances adding up to the system being out of tolerance, and having a problem. There are even other parts that haven't been discussed yet or not in depth (like the intake temp sensor, engine speed sensor, throttle position sensor, or the complete ignition distributor).
You probably can't remove any of the mentioned parts, look at them and see that they are bad. Intermittent electrical problems are a PITA to isolate and cure.
BUT, we can make some ASSUMPTIONS from what has been discussed here.
#1: A number of different parts have been replaced by different people which cured the problem for them, but not for everyone.
#2: A key to curing the PROBLEM is using NEW Genuine VW or Bosch OE or Other German Made OE replacement parts. Generic parts of unknown original and quality adds variables that make the problem impossible to cure. Stuffing in a used part or parts from your junk box or your buddy's or a salvage yard is not the same as buying a New Genuine VW Part or German made OE Part, and installing it properly.
#3 Replacing the MAF, spark plugs, ignition wires, coolant temp sensor, and/or coil pack has cured the problem for some people, and not for others, improved the situation for some, and has not changed the situation for others.
Personally by replacing some parts with new Genuine German made parts, and others with used parts, I have improved the situation on my 95 Golf GL, but have not completely cured it 100% of the time, under all conditions. I have replaced the spark plugs (Bosch Platinums), the old Bosch Platinums were toast, the distributor cap and rotor (Genuine Bosch), Italian generic parts installed by PO did not fit right and were burned (came from either AutoZone or Kragen, both companies sell the same crap as House Brand), the complete distributor (with a used distributor) which improved the situation slightly, and the coolant temp sensor, which also improved the situation slightly. I have tried subbing in the coilpack and MAF from a low mileage car that I parted out last year. All of the other parts from that car were good and I didn't notice any change. So, I doubt that those parts were defective in my case.
My next move will be to replace the intake temp sensor, as they cost less than $20. I've noticed that the problem changes with the engine temp, and this sensor is the next least expensive replacement part.
After that, if necessary, I am planning on changing the engine speed sensor, and the next part to replace after that would be a brand new distributor.
However, the problem is not that noticeable at this point, and there are other things that are a higher priority.


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## digraph (Jul 23, 1999)

*Re: Re: (michaelpanic)*

Seriously- why doesn't Bentley include a section on Motronic, or respective engine management hardware software. We get fault codes like "implausible signal" but it would certainly help to know what voltage the ECU is looking for in what time frame, according to XYZ operating parameters of other sensors.
I say this coming more from an EE than ME background.


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## lagolfadel97 (Jan 16, 2007)

*Re: Re: (digraph)*

used some lubro moly jectron, cel went off less misfires will c how long will last


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## vwlovehate (Mar 22, 2009)

*Re: engine missing while at cruise speed and low idle speed Runs Rich (chuckwillsdad)*

My 95 golf is acting similar. In the morning it starts poorly and i must hold foot on gas for about 45 seconds. it will barely idle, but will drive normal for about 2 to 3 min. then when warmer it will idle fine but miss when accelerator is applied up to half throttle. beyond half throttle up to wide open the miss stops and the car accelerates. ive tested the MAF. its working. Changed the CTS. ignition is all new. compression is good. normal in all 4 cylinders. still working on it. will let you know. next i will check the idle air control valve. although my multimeter stopped working. Im waiting to have it warranted by my tool distributor.


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## lowdubmk3 (Jul 8, 2008)

*Re: engine missing while at cruise speed and low idle speed Runs Rich (vwlovehate)*

Change your throttle position sensor. I had the same problem and when i changed it, that solved the problem. NO more crappy idle's. No more "misses" while driving. Ill post pictures later.


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