# BGP vs. BGQ, easy swap?



## DRGraphix (Jun 7, 2008)

Hey everyone! I'm thinking of swapping an engine in my 2005.5 Jetta, I think my engine code is BGP. Can I just bolt in a BGQ motor and expect it to work? What are the differences?


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## Audi4u (Jun 29, 2002)

DRGraphix said:


> Hey everyone! I'm thinking of swapping an engine in my 2005.5 Jetta, I think my engine code is BGP. Can I just bolt in a BGQ motor and expect it to work? What are the differences?


 Yes you can bolt everything up. You have to use the injectors from your old engine, because they may be different.
Andre


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## DRGraphix (Jun 7, 2008)

Just to confirm before I drop mad money on the wrong part, the computer will work between the engines? No need to transfer an ecu? 

I've got no problem just changing injectors, are there any other parts differences between the motors? Is either one better?


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## jettafan[atic] (Dec 2, 2008)

How come you're swapping the motor? I don't know much about the engines by code but arent they both the 2.5 I-5?


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## DRGraphix (Jun 7, 2008)

I have a crack in my head, nothing functional, but it's caused an oil leak that I've tried twice to track down. If you've seen this engine without some parts on it, you've seen that the top transmission bolt goes through the head, then to the engine block. When I installed my new transmission, I accidentally over-torqued this bolt, and put a small crack in the head at this attachment point. I've already spent about 10 hrs repairing this leak with aluminized epoxy, and I missed a spot, causing another oil leak. I could either open it up again and pray I find the right spot (about 5 hrs, at least), or replace the head. 

Now I've got a lot of timing chain noise at 70k, and ppl here are saying it's a warning sign that the tensioners are loose, and I'll soon have to do a timing chain job, which requires removal of the engine, transmission, head, and more. With both problems, it's much easier (probably cheaper), and more logical to start with a low-mileage motor from a wreck. I've found one with my engine code, I just want to know if I should be looking for the better one or not.


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## Audi4u (Jun 29, 2002)

I think you may be looking in the wrong place for your leak. 
None of the transmission bolt go through the head. 
Also you dont have to remove the engine or the head to the chains. 

I bought my car in 02/2007. 2 months later I bought a spare engine from a 2006 jetta for R&D and to build. 
I did the same swap. the 2006 had different injectors and only 2 o2 sensors. 

If you are planning to part out you old motor let me know. 

Andre


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## DRGraphix (Jun 7, 2008)

I'm looking through the Bentley, you're right. I thought the thin wall underneath the head was actually part of it. The crack is directly above the top transmission bolt, and if I'm not mistaken, that's part of the block? Hmmm. I'm not sure what to do. I know the crack is related to the top bolt, and I'm almost positive I heard it pop when I over-torqued the bolt (just a bit over factory spec, won't ever do that again.) 

With the different trans, could the bolt have been a tiny bit too long? Or could the torque have been the only cause? I'll have to measure the depth with the bolt out and grind it down for the new motor if need be. 

I'm almost positive I'm doing this swap. I just put UV dye in the motor, and I need to see if the leak is coming from the same place, or if it could be the seal around where the coolant line enters (I neglected to replace the gasket when I reinstalled it.).

What parts do you need? If I can make a bit back from this, it's a done deal.

Oh yeah, to clarify: I know you don't really need to remove the engine to do the chain job, but it's a hell of a lot easier to take it all apart with the motor pulled. That's what I'd do anytime I wanted to pull the trans, at least if I could avoid opening up the a/c line. I was also in the mindset that I'd have to chase this crack further, and I've gone about as far as I can without getting a view out of the engine bay. Soooo, if I'm going that far anyway, it may be worth the time savings and security to put in a low-mileage engine.


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## Audi4u (Jun 29, 2002)

There is an aluminum plate between the block and the trans that covers the chains. I'm guessing you cracked the plate.
What trans were you using? o2j?


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## DRGraphix (Jun 7, 2008)

Yes, this is where the crack is. In the Bentley diagram, it looks like a shelf hanging over the transmission. I originally thought it was the head, b/c it's obviously not iron. I can confirm it cracked b/c of the torque, not the bolt length. I wish I had better pics, but it was impossible to get a camera in there. The crack starts where the bolt passes through the aluminum to the block, I repaired everything you can get to without pulling off the trans. If I keep this engine, I'll have to look further into the leak when I do the timing chains. Everyone is telling me to do both chains, so I'll have to pull the motor anyway. 

I'm pretty sure it's the 02Q, it's from an '07 GTI, and 02Q the only 6-speed manual listed for the mkV in the Bentley. 

I don't really know if I want to crack this open further or not. I've never adjusted timing, and I don't have the special tools described in the Bentley. Do you need the tools? They're around $300!

Again, if I replace this motor what parts do you need from the old one?

Update: I just had a look at the motor I'm probably going to buy. It comes with everything, so as well as the long block, I will have accessories available, including the ECU and cable. Let me know what you need.


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## Audi4u (Jun 29, 2002)

You will need all at least the crank and cam lock. check with 20squared. They may be able to help you out. To be honest, It will be much easier to swap engines. 
You will only need the parts that the new motor doesn't have.


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## DRGraphix (Jun 7, 2008)

Um, I wasn't asking what I need for the new motor, I was asking what _you_ need, b/c you asked about parting it out. I'll have extra parts and accessories. The donor motor has an automatic, so I'll have the coolant parts that are different between the two. I have the expensive parts: a/c compressor and ecu (unless I send it away for a re-flash  )Let me know what you need.

When you did your swap, was your engine code different? Both mine and the new motor are BGP, and aside from the automatic parts and manufacturing stickers, they look identical in all ways.


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## Audi4u (Jun 29, 2002)

My motors had different engine codes. How much for ecu and head? maybe even engine mount and acc bracket. Keep in mind these motor average $500 in my area on www.car-part.com


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## DRGraphix (Jun 7, 2008)

Ahh, nice search site, very helpful! I wish I could find a motor for $500. The best I can find on that site is 800, 3 hrs away from here. I've heard too many stories to buy something I can't see first, so I'll have to weigh the options here.

One factor is: how much will you pay for these parts? I trust my local seller, and I'd rather buy his motor and sell you the stuff you need. btw, the motor mount is pretty screwed; the car was in a rollover, and some of the rubber is torn. I was hoping to recover this myself to make a urethane mount. If you want me to name a price, I'll have to do some research, I really don't know what to ask. Please PM me with an offer on the head, computer, and bracket. I'll be happy to work with you, I'm excited to get this over with.


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## undercoverdubber (Aug 24, 2008)

Audi4u said:


> www.car-part.com


awesome link


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## EricRK (Nov 4, 2009)

How labor intensive is the actual swap itself? Im considering trying to do it myself due to needing a new timing chain not only to save money on the install, but also it seems like it would be a good way to learn my way around the new jetta a little bit more.


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## DRGraphix (Jun 7, 2008)

I'm about to start it tomorrow, got the car on the lift and prepped today. I had the shop empty the A/C system, so I can disconnect the condenser at the front clip. After you disconnect the ac and radiator, remove the bumper skin, wheels, underbody plastic and headlights (optional, I think), the front clip is removed by unbolting the bumper supports. Have a friend help, or use a lift with some thoughtfully placed straps, or you will probably drop the clip. The engine/trans combo can be pulled right out from the front of the open car. Be sure to properly secure the axles to the sub-frame, if you're not removing them entirely.

You have to pull all wiring off of the engine before removal, or risk cutting and soldering. My new motor has no intake manifold, and I'm pulling it off before lifting the engine. It's plastic, expensive and breakable..yeah mind all the plastic parts...

This is the most in-depth I've gone with any car, If I have time, I'll post pics and short writeup. At the least, I'll tell you how long it took, and answer any questions.


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## DRGraphix (Jun 7, 2008)

Ten years later: It all bolted in without a problem. I made some mistakes and learned a lot. The engine is from a 2007, and I'm now debating swapping in a newer motor, just to avoid a jumped chain. Mine is still running like a sewing machine, with no sighs of weirdness. No excessively loud chain, the engine has about 130k on it now, and still loves life. Has anyone had a jumped chain on their 2007? Anyone with high mileage 2007?


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