# How can i install home speakers in my car ??????



## mitaka007 (Sep 30, 2008)

*HI can u guys tell me if i can install these speakers in my car..
* 
*
My car is a VW GTI 1.8t , and i also have the stock amp in my car.*


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## JDriver1.8t (May 20, 2005)

*Re: How can i install home speakers in my car ?????? (mitaka007)*

why?


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## Zyoid (Feb 25, 2008)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *JDriver1.8t* »_why?


x2


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*FV-QR*

solution: don't


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## BlackVDUB2.0 (Mar 7, 2009)

*Re: How can i install home speakers in my car ?????? (JDriver1.8t)*


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## vdubnick (Nov 29, 2004)

wow, i havent been on here for a while... everytime i come back i always get a good laugh... then end by busting my head through a desk.
please, if you instist on those awesome speakers, just go buy a boombox that can be powered by batteries, and call it a day....


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## 2000Jet1.8T (Mar 25, 2009)

*Re: (vdubnick)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubnick* »_wow, i havent been on here for a while... everytime i come back i always get a good laugh... then end by busting my head through a desk.
please, if you instist on those awesome speakers, just go buy a boombox that can be powered by batteries, and call it a day....


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## VWClub14 (Nov 17, 2006)

haha, too funny


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## DubRadio (Oct 15, 2003)

"I was working on installing these awesome home speakers in my car today and was asking people on vwvortex if I could or not, Turns out I just made them laugh, and then got kicked in the nuts by the internet - FML"


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## broko (Mar 18, 2005)

home speakers might sound good at home where there's no ambient noise, worthless on a car IMO.


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## CMihalcheon (Jan 29, 2007)

*Re: (broko)*

alright looks like OP is getting no love here. Yes you can install the speakers if you really really want to. Just wire the speaker leads from the speakers to an amp or the HU. I have a hunch that from the HU, the speakers might not be too loud though.


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## broko (Mar 18, 2005)

home speakers work with very high impedances (most of the time)


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## vdubnick (Nov 29, 2004)

*Re: (broko)*

no, not really..... bout the same as a lot of factory speakers... around 6-8 ohms... which isnt much more than the avg 4ohm. (myabe you are confusing them with headphones)
But either way... beside the fact of what is being requested to be installed. It never ceases to amaze me how a simple 2-wire hookup seems like unfathomable rocket science to some. ITS 2-WIRES!


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## vdubnick (Nov 29, 2004)

on a side note... looking at the OP's location, and what is being requested, i wonder what ethnicity they are?


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## jetta trek (Nov 11, 2007)

*Re: (vdubnick)*








why? you won't get the bhigh's you want with them covered.


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## pballpromasta (Jul 26, 2007)

*Re: (DubRadio)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DubRadio* »_"I was working on installing these awesome home speakers in my car today and was asking people on vwvortex if I could or not, Turns out I just made them laugh, and then got kicked in the nuts by the internet - FML"

x2. I was just thinking this. Wow. Why?
YES you can. But please please dont
EDIT: Can someone tell me how a 19 year old has the money to get a 1.8t but does not have the intelligence to figure out whether he can power house speakers in a car?


_Modified by pballpromasta at 10:45 PM 8-8-2009_


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*Re: (pballpromasta)*

mommy and daddy?
I had my car at 17. My loan in entirety.


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## DUBsportGLX (Aug 12, 2003)

*Re: (pballpromasta)*

I would advise against installing these in your car. Most home speakers have an 8 ohm impedance where your typical stock car speakers are 4 ohms. Essentially what an 8 ohm would need twice the power to perform. What I'm trying to say is an 8 ohm speaker rated at 60 watts rms and a 4 ohm speaker rated at 60 watts rms are two different animals. 60 watts at 4 ohms is like 30 watts at 8 ohms. It typically wont but could damage your amp or speakers by doing so. If you need any tips check out my page listed below. It's under construction but there is a lot of helpful info.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*FV-QR*

not necessarily true and you cannot damage an amplifier designed for 4 ohms by running 8 ohm speakers.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Pat @ Pitt Soundworks)*

and your website:
1) the performance of the amplifiers is completely unrelated to the performance of the head unit
2) preout voltage means jack ****
3) signal to noise ratio doesn't mean anything anymore
4) your definition of signal to noise ratio is wrong
5) a woofers (sub, midrange, or tweeter) power handling doesn't have to match anywhere near the amplifiers rating. Power handling is dependent on enclosure and frequency.
6) the "class" of an amplifier is virtually unrelated to the type of sound it produces.


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## DUBsportGLX (Aug 12, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Pat @ Pitt Soundworks)*

1) The performance of the amplifier is related to the QUALITY of the head unit not the performance of the head unit.
2) Preout voltage means nothing if you're running poor product
3) signal to noise ratio does mean something unless you enjoy distortion at low volumes. 
4) I dont think I provided a true definition of signal to noise ration on my site. I put it in layman's terms.
5) It does have to do with power handling. Under powering a speaker or over powering a speaker will damage the speaker whatever type it is. You're correct to state the enclosure is important and the frequency as well. 
6) You're wrong. A class D amplifier is the most efficient amp currently on the market and by operating more efficient more power is directed to the speaker rather than turned into heat and wasted. Tell me a 1000watt class A amp will give you the same thing a 1000watt class D amp will?
Last thanks for the critique on the site. Just so everyone's aware what is currently on my site is just the beginning. I started with the basic's and tried to put it in terms that everyone can relate to not a bunch of mumbo jumbo. The site still under construction and there will be more to come getting into more complex topics.


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## jacampb2 (Jul 23, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBsportGLX)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBsportGLX* »_
1) The performance of the amplifier is related to the QUALITY of the head unit not the performance of the head unit.
2) Preout voltage means nothing if you're running poor product
3) signal to noise ratio does mean something unless you enjoy distortion at low volumes. 
4) I dont think I provided a true definition of signal to noise ration on my site. I put it in layman's terms.
5) It does have to do with power handling. Under powering a speaker or over powering a speaker will damage the speaker whatever type it is. You're correct to state the enclosure is important and the frequency as well. 
6) You're wrong. A class D amplifier is the most efficient amp currently on the market and by operating more efficient more power is directed to the speaker rather than turned into heat and wasted. Tell me a 1000watt class A amp will give you the same thing a 1000watt class D amp will?
Last thanks for the critique on the site. Just so everyone's aware what is currently on my site is just the beginning. I started with the basic's and tried to put it in terms that everyone can relate to not a bunch of mumbo jumbo. The site still under construction and there will be more to come getting into more complex topics.

1)Not at all. For the most part, the amplifier performs exactly the same regardless of the HU.
2)Pre-out voltages are a lot like the internal HU amp specs, typically overated "max" "ILS" ratings. You cannot just take the manufacturers specs at face value, and anything above 5V in a HU is very unlikely unless it is quite high end. 
3)Amplifier design has progressed far enough that almost any quality amp on the market has pushed the SNR into realms far beyond audible for a human being. Granted, you could still have a piece of garbage swap meet amp, but for any quality product, for all intents and purposes, you are not going to hear the difference.
4)Not even close, your explanation makes absolutely no sense.
5)You cannot under power a speaker and damage it. This is a myth, and if you think it through it makes absolutely no sense. After all, every speaker in the world that is at rest right now is 100% underpowered, and every speaker should be junk by now...
6)I have a serious problem with this point, and it is really the only reason I took the time to reply. First of all, if the manufacturers ratings are to be believed, then a 1000W amp is a 1000W amp, regardless of what amplifier topology it uses. The difference is that the Class A or Class A/B amp draws a lot more current and produces much more heat to make the same amount of power. They still both deliver 1000 watts, but the Class D amp is easier on your electrical system. Second, Class D topology has a lot of problems with odd order harmonic distortion, especially at higher frequencies. This is why probably 90% of the Class D amps on the market are not full range amps. In all actuality, a well designed Class A or Class A/B amp will outperform a equal power rated class D amp in SQ. I would always take a Class A/B (true class A is actually extremely rare in mobile amplifiers) over a Class D amp, even though it means sacrificing some efficiency.
Later,
Jason


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## jacampb2 (Jul 23, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (jacampb2)*

Oh, and to the OP. Even though you can do it, you really shouldn't. You are better off w/ just the factory speakers than trying to use HA gear in a mobile install.
Later,
Jason


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (jacampb2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBsportGLX* »_
1) The performance of the amplifier is related to the QUALITY of the head unit not the performance of the head unit.
2) Preout voltage means nothing if you're running poor product
3) signal to noise ratio does mean something unless you enjoy distortion at low volumes.
4) I dont think I provided a true definition of signal to noise ration on my site. I put it in layman's terms.
5) It does have to do with power handling. Under powering a speaker or over powering a speaker will damage the speaker whatever type it is. You're correct to state the enclosure is important and the frequency as well.
6) You're wrong. A class D amplifier is the most efficient amp currently on the market and by operating more efficient more power is directed to the speaker rather than turned into heat and wasted. Tell me a 1000watt class A amp will give you the same thing a 1000watt class D amp will?


_Quote, originally posted by *jacampb2* »_
1)Not at all. For the most part, the amplifier performs exactly the same regardless of the HU.
2)Pre-out voltages are a lot like the internal HU amp specs, typically overated "max" "ILS" ratings. You cannot just take the manufacturers specs at face value, and anything above 5V in a HU is very unlikely unless it is quite high end. 
3)Amplifier design has progressed far enough that almost any quality amp on the market has pushed the SNR into realms far beyond audible for a human being. Granted, you could still have a piece of garbage swap meet amp, but for any quality product, for all intents and purposes, you are not going to hear the difference.
4)Not even close, your explanation makes absolutely no sense.
5)You cannot under power a speaker and damage it. This is a myth, and if you think it through it makes absolutely no sense. After all, every speaker in the world that is at rest right now is 100% underpowered, and every speaker should be junk by now...
6)I have a serious problem with this point, and it is really the only reason I took the time to reply. First of all, if the manufacturers ratings are to be believed, then a 1000W amp is a 1000W amp, regardless of what amplifier topology it uses. The difference is that the Class A or Class A/B amp draws a lot more current and produces much more heat to make the same amount of power. They still both deliver 1000 watts, but the Class D amp is easier on your electrical system. Second, Class D topology has a lot of problems with odd order harmonic distortion, especially at higher frequencies. This is why probably 90% of the Class D amps on the market are not full range amps. In all actuality, a well designed Class A or Class A/B amp will outperform a equal power rated class D amp in SQ. I would always take a Class A/B (true class A is actually extremely rare in mobile amplifiers) over a Class D amp, even though it means sacrificing some efficiency.
Later,
Jason


1)Amplifiers only put out what is put in. The performance of the amp is no way affected by the performance of the head unit. If you want a clean signal, sure you'll want a better head unit, but it's foolish to say the amp REQUIRES a good head unit. Totally unrelated.
2) Preout voltage ONLY affects gain level on an amplifier. A quality amp (read: basically anything that you cannot buy "brand new" at a flea market) doesn't induce hiss even with a very high gain level. That's it. You get NO better sound from a high voltage preout than you do from a low level. Also Preout voltage ratings are at max volume with all settings (boost, eq, etc) set to max. Typical preout voltage is so low, the difference between a 5v preout and 2v preout is basically nonexistant.
3) JJason has it exactly right. And considering there really hasn't been any MAJOR advances in amplifier design in the past 20 years, it's safe to say S/N ratio is a useless spec.
4) there's a difference between dumbing down and being totally wrong

_Quote, originally posted by *wikipedia* »_
Signal-to-noise ratio (often abbreviated SNR or S/N) is an electrical engineering measurement,...defined as the ratio of a signal power to the noise power corrupting the signal

Sounds pretty straight forward to me
5) As I already said, power handling varies by install. Also, the rating vales for speaker and amplifier RMS levels are DIFFERENT VALUES. For amplifiers, it's unclipped output power (Vac & Iac). For speakers it could be "amp power", but that's most unlikely. Usually, it's the ability to dissipate thermal power (also an RMS value), or long-term power applied to the point of pushing the moving assembly past it's physical limits.
Also, think about this. When you turn the volume down on the head unit, what happens to the power applied to the speaker? How much power does the speaker receive at 0 volume? Partial volume? Full volume?
6) Jason, again, has it right. An amp rated at 1000w will do 1000w at rated impedance regardless of topology. Higher efficiency only means less input current is required to produce the same power. And, just as Jason said, there's a reason the PDX class d amps have a lot of complaints when used for powering anything other than subwoofers


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## DUBsportGLX (Aug 12, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Pat @ Pitt Soundworks)*

Listen these are age old arguements. We could bicker back and forth all day long. The fact is there is material out there supporting everything I say on my site. Then again there is material out there that argues everything I say on my site or contradicts what I say. Unless you have something objective all your points are taken but they remain to be subjective in response. Anyways I'd prefer that this be put to rest I didn't come here to argue. I'm here just like you to simply provide guidance to fellow vortexers in need.







cheers


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## DUBsportGLX (Aug 12, 2003)

In less technical terms, signal-to-noise ratio compares the level of a desired signal (such as music) to the level of background noise. The higher the ratio, the less obtrusive the background noise is. 
Also found on wikipedia... basically what I said in my site with the exception of me using the word distorted rather than obtrusive.


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## DubRadio (Oct 15, 2003)

*Re: (DUBsportGLX)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBsportGLX* »_In less technical terms, signal-to-noise ratio compares the level of a desired signal (such as music) to the level of background noise. The higher the ratio, the less obtrusive the background noise is. 
*Also found on wikipedia*... basically what I said in my site with the exception of me using the word distorted rather than obtrusive.



^thats your problem right there, dont believe everything you find on wiki, Instead research from reputable sources. stop in a local book store and pick up a book on electrical engineering, you will be amazed at how often wikipedia is wrong...
on a side note, good effort on the resource website, i would trust pat and jason on this though, those 2 guys (especially pat) definetley know the ins and outs of Acoustics..


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBsportGLX)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUBsportGLX* »_Listen these are age old arguements. * not really* We could bicker back and forth all day long. The fact is there is material out there supporting everything I say on my site. Then again there is material out there that argues everything I say on my site or contradicts what I say. Unless you have something objective all your points are taken but they remain to be subjective in response. Anyways I'd prefer that this be put to rest I didn't come here to argue. I'm here just like you to simply provide guidance to fellow vortexers in need.







cheers

There is a difference between what is the TRUTH vs what is continuously propagated by those who are brainwashed by the companies they buy products from. 
None of my points are subjective. Everything can be quantified if you actually took the time to try it.

_Quote, originally posted by *DUBsportGLX* »_basically what I said in my site with the exception of me using the word distorted rather than obtrusive.



_Quote, originally posted by *your site* »_The other important number to look at within the specs is the signal to noise ratio. The greater the decibals the louder your music will play with no distortion.

This is BLATANTLY incorrect. The amount of NOISE the electronic device injects in to the signal is NOT DEPENDENT on the LOUDNESS of the SYSTEM. It's the rating of NON-MATERIAL DISTORTION vs ORIGINAL SOURCE MATERIAL

_Quote, originally posted by *DubRadio* »_
on a side note, good effort on the resource website, i would trust pat and jason on this though, those 2 guys (especially pat) definetley know the ins and outs of Acoustics.. 

I'm really surprised Nick hasn't come to play a little more.


_Modified by Pat @ Pitt Soundworks at 8:40 PM 8-9-2009_


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## DUBsportGLX (Aug 12, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Pat @ Pitt Soundworks)*

I dont rely on Wiki for my definitions. What I offer is 14 years of knowledge and experience. Signal to noise ratio is important. It is measured in decibels. The greater the signal to noise ratio is rated at the louder you can play your music without distortion. Maybe that's not how your text book says it but that's how I say it. It looks like you pull all your information from a text book or someone else's website to look intelligent. 
Last I appologize to the fellow vortexer who is trying to get an issue resolved and someone in the forum can not take that his opinion on the matter is not the only opinion. This is a forum right? let's use some manners. Again I'm sorry. I tried to resolve this outside of the room.
If anyone would like some sound advice from someone that isn't going to belittle you in front of your peers let me know.


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## JDriver1.8t (May 20, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBsportGLX)*

^ you are making my head hurt.


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## twelvevolt (Oct 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBsportGLX)*

what happened to your website? did you finally realize you were wrong?


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