# TT 3.2 Schrick 268 Cams Install



## pal (Aug 16, 2000)

We installed a set of Schrick 268 cams into my 2008 TT yesterday. Huge thanks to *vwtechr32* and *climbingcue* for helping me with the install and getting it all done in a day. Below are some of the pictures I took along the way.

The one nice thing about the MK2 TT is that there is enough room in the engine bay to remove the manifold without having to take the front bumper off the car. This is a huge time saver compared to the MK1 or the R32 (both generations) that requires bumper removal and moving the support forward to a service position.

The subject: 2008 Brilliant Black 3.2 Quattro 6MT

























The performance adders: Schrick 268/264 cams. These cams are solid and each weighed in at 5lbs 8oz each compared to the hollow stocker that weighed 3lbs 12oz.









Underbody panel removed: T20, T30 and T40 bolts. VWAG wants to make life as inconvenient as possible 









Coolant drained by pulling hose on driver side bottom.

































Intake manifold removal - lots of connectors, bolts and carefully moving and placing wiring harnesses in proper places to keep working area clear around the valve cover and head and not stressing any wires or connectors.

Unbolt the dipstick tube (2 bolts), pull out dipstick, pull up tube out of its hole in the block and set aside. Then get to work on the 9 front bolts (6mm allen; I prefer a long allen key with a wobble/round head) of the intake manifold.

















These are a PITA and also easy to break if man-handled. So be careful and take your time.

















More stuff hooked to the manifold- bolts, cam sensors, vaccum lines ... 

























Coils removed and set aside









Throttle body removed and set aside. It was quite dirty so we cleaned it ... its probably a good idea to clean this on a regular basis.









Vaccum actuator for variable manifold shifter rod removed from manifold. 









Removed engine support brace. This makes it possible to slide the manifold towards driver side and up and out of the engine bay.









Manifold removal- watch the orange nub sticking out of the gasket that tends to get caught in wires. In retrospect, the gasket could be removed before the manifold.

























Now we're getting somewhere - sort of. Valve cover removed after disconnecting wire brackets attached to it.

















Clear this maze and take note of orientation of harnesses

















Valve cover removed. Note how the spark plug gaskets are oriented into the underside of the cover. Some gaskets may get left behind, carefully pull them out of the head.

































Took the passenger side wheel off and removed the lower wheel liner to get to the crank pulley. Now rotate the crank pulley until you see the notch in the pulley and the mark on the block. We marked them with a silver marker so they are more visible. We ended up rotating the notch a bit past the mark on the block to get the cams to line up and allow insertion of the alignment plate. We used this as our reference.

























Note arrows on intake and exhaust cam phasers. The documentation calls for 16 barrels between them but depending upon how you count, it may be 17. We marked everything and decided to bring everything back to the same state.









































Chain tensioner removed

















Thermostat housing removal (5mm allen)- some coolant will flow out of the crack pipe so place a pan under the car to catch most of it. 

























Cam cover removed - 8mm 12 point and 6mm allens.









Check your marks on the phasers and chains and remove the cam bearing caps. They are numbered and oriented, but we placed them in order anyways.

















Remove inner cam cover and set aside









Cams ready to be lifted away. Note how we hung the chain do it was not slacking into the side cover.

































Parts set away. Stock cams need a 32mm open end to hold it in place in order to remove the 18mm black cam bolts. Timing plate should not be in the cams when removing these as you can break the cams if there is any movement. Schrick cams use a 30mm open end.









Prep Schrick cams by installing the oil rings. These are super fragile so extreme care needed to get them on the cams. I ordered a new set of 6.









Schricks setup and ready to go

















Rest of the process is basically reverse of removal. Just take your time and if frustrated by some step, take a break and step away for a bit and come back.


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## ShockwaveCS (Jun 22, 2006)

nice post. That's a great looking car you have. I just bought a faux lowboy jack like the one in the picture. something like speedway for 100. amazingly low and light as hell. Either way nice post. I'm happy to see non RS stuff and posts with pics/details:beer::beer:


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## Black BeauTTy (Jun 11, 2011)

Okay, you are officially my hero! That was an impressive piece of work. I wouldn't have the guts to tackle that in my garage. Major props my friend!:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## pal (Aug 16, 2000)

Black BeauTTy said:


> Okay, you are officially my hero! That was an impressive piece of work. I wouldn't have the guts to tackle that in my garage. Major props my friend!:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


Thanks. This garage has seen a lot of "action" over the years 




ShockwaveCS said:


> nice post. That's a great looking car you have. I just bought a faux lowboy jack like the one in the picture. something like speedway for 100. amazingly low and light as hell. Either way nice post. I'm happy to see non RS stuff and posts with pics/details:beer::beer:


The jack in the back there is a AC Hydraulics DK13HLQ and I am using an ACH cross beam adapter that lets me lift the entire back end from under the control arms. That jack has a max lift height of 30" if I recall. Love it. The stands are ACH/ESCO's as well.


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## Marty (Jul 14, 2000)

pal said:


> Thanks. This garage has seen a lot of "action" over the years
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice work! I swapped cams on my old 2.8L VR6 in my garage in college. I remember having the timing chain tied and hanging to the hood. 

The jacks look nice. Can you jack up both front wheels instead at the same time as well, or can you only access the pair of rear points at the same time?


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## R5T (Apr 7, 2010)

To much work for just cams upgrade IMHO. 
Nice job though.


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## pal (Aug 16, 2000)

Black BeauTTy said:


> Okay, you are officially my hero! That was an impressive piece of work. I wouldn't have the guts to tackle that in my garage. Major props my friend!:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


I am sure you'd do just fine. Jobs like this always give me jitters and it helps to have a friend or two ti help.



Marty said:


> Can you jack up both front wheels instead at the same time as well, or can you only access the pair of rear points at the same time?


The TT can be lifted from the torque arm bolt on the subframe but I am not comfortable using that given the heavy VR6. I use the AC jack to lift my wife's GTI from that point though. The cross beam adapter does not get all the way back to the front subframe.



R5T said:


> To much work for just cams upgrade IMHO.


100% agree. But there are't many NA mods for this car put there so need to put this effort in and create a base for other little stuff like hi-flow cats. The Schricks most definitely wake up the mid range and top end and are worth it IMHO.


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## carl44 (Nov 23, 2012)

I've done cams and valve springs on a lotus Elise ( Toyota 2zz) and it was involved but compared to what you did it was simple! I'm impressed..carl


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## Tucci (Feb 2, 2005)

Awesome! Does it sound the same at idle?


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## pal (Aug 16, 2000)

Tucci said:


> Awesome! Does it sound the same at idle?


Yes, the idle sound appears to be unaltered.



carl44 said:


> I've done cams and valve springs on a lotus Elise ( Toyota 2zz) and it was involved but compared to what you did it was simple!


There is just a lot of "stuff" in the way to get to the cams and it makes the job a lot more tedious.


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## jezze269 (Apr 30, 2002)

Oh man the pictures are gone. I just started installing mine and had this bookmarked for reference.


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## TT Speeder (Jul 27, 2010)

*Schrick Camshaft instalation...*

Hi..!...I was so glad to see SOMEONE having the balls to put cams in the 3,3 Mk2 V6 quattro....
I have exactly the same car, and have been considering this for some time...along with a super charger Scorpion exhaust...etc
The question I have....and I have built hundred of high performance engines in my time...IS...WHAT about valve springs on this mod????
It is usually a GIVEN that valve springs SHOULD be supplied by the cam manufacturer to match the cam.....along with possibly new spring caps AND valve locks..!
What about valve float at high rpm???...or coil bind with the higher lift..?all the valve "installed heights"should be checked too...along with the springs...in case spring shims are needed, to equalize everything...are these NEW cams...OR "re-grinds"?...which I tend to stay away from ...considering what I have seen happen with such swaps in my time !....what about using USED lifters against NEW cam surfaces???...this can easily wipe out a cam lobe..!
Did you need bigger injectors with this mod?..or higher volume fuel pump..?
Also...a better intake and exhaust would really work hand in hand when committing yourself to such a "breathing mod"..!
There is alot more to consider than just to drop in a pair of cams...
Would like to hear from you how it all worked out over time....a good benefit from this???
Thanks...Ken:wave:


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## pal (Aug 16, 2000)

No valve spring upgrade needed on the 3.2 VR. I still have the car and have done many track events as well - no issues. The lifters are hydraulic and self adjusting.


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## colindunn (Mar 1, 2014)

Awesome!! This makes me want to finally go ahead and do the same to mine. Great pictures.


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## Blaylock1988 (Apr 22, 2012)

I'm planning on getting 272/264 cams installed in a couple weeks, although I'm going to have my shop install them while they are replacing my timing chains.

I have a United Motorsports tune but from my understanding is a tune isn't required. Do you have a tune on your TT?

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


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## Gotsol (Jan 25, 2007)

Fun project. Good for you for the DIY. Why no lube on the cams?


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## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

Do you member the mileage when the cam install was performed? Asking because someone in the 08 R32 forum has an engine that looks to have been poorly maintained.


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## SwissJetPilot (Aug 9, 2017)

*Hello from Switzerland*

Really enjoyed your post, excellent information. 

If it's okay with you, I have linked this to our Audi TT UK Forum here in Europe. I've written a DIY for replacing the CCV diaphragm and you instructions for getting the Cylinder Head Cover off are perfect. I did want to ask, is it necessary to drain the coolant and remove the under pan? I'm only asking as these steps are not listed in the workshop manual.

Cheers - SwissJetPilot

Here's a link to the post I've written -
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1851037&p=9110483#p9110483


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