# 2.0l aeg build question(s)



## Kjheidlebaugh (Jun 9, 2011)

yes i am building a aeg 2.0l N/A and what a blast it has been. :laugh: 
im stuck on some parts of the build though.

yesterday we removed the head. The Cam are a bitch to get out!
(second time we broke Cam positioning sensor)

Any input on how to remove the cam without breaking that little bastard!? 

anyway, we removed the head to clean it up, replace the valve spring with dual springs that have a .460" lift. i am running the Autotech 270 cam*. (IMO sounds amazing)

we went to remove the valve springs and ran into a little problem.... the universal spring compressor that the local hardware stores sell (harbor freight) is too big. 

what type of valve spring compressor do i need? link would be helpful....

heres a picture of my head.:laugh: 


for 160,200 miles its rather clean and the build up comes right off. ill post a picture after its all cleaned up.


here are some more pictures of my build:






also... my jetta is a 1999.5 AEG 2.0l, i was under the impression that my jetta was the last ones to be built in germany and the sent to the U.S. there is a stamp on the block that reads:
MEXICO so im guessing it was built in mexico?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Just a friendly FYI...you don't have to list them as '.460" springs'. Looks kind of silly. 
We all just call 'em Techtonics DH duals. :thumbup:


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## Kjheidlebaugh (Jun 9, 2011)

911_fan said:


> Just a friendly FYI...you don't have to list them as '.460" springs'. Looks kind of silly.
> We all just call 'em Techtonics DH duals. :thumbup:


:facepalm: well now i look stupid haha.

thanks for clarifying that up for me


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

If you remove the cam sprocket from the cam before removing the cam, you will not break the sensor. And if you look in the driver's door jam, it should show country of origin.


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## Kjheidlebaugh (Jun 9, 2011)

:thumbup: ill give that a shot the next time.


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## Sortaflush (Feb 3, 2012)

*Jetta*

Why would you build a 2.0 aeg?


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## Sortaflush (Feb 3, 2012)

*Jetta*

But anyway lets mill that bitch tanite with some 80 grit kyle


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Sortaflush said:


> Why would you build a 2.0 aeg?


Because it's his money and his car. 

Why do you feel the need to come into this forum and troll? You got BANNED last week....going for #2? :facepalm: 

Go ahead and trash-talk me again....see what happens. :wave:


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## **Bailor** (Jul 29, 2011)

If I had the time and money I'd build my 2.0. The 2.0 is bulletproof and reliable. That's more valuable to me than speed. And if you're going to rebuild for another 200,000 miles, why not throw in a better cam & springs? Build on!


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## Sortaflush (Feb 3, 2012)

*2.0*

True, I still love the fact that it will be a fast 2.0 and it will get more respect but you can't compare it too 20 valves of fury


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## Kjheidlebaugh (Jun 9, 2011)

Are the head bolts stretch bolts? I'm pretty sure they are just not sure.

And has anyone ever reused them if they are?


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## Kjheidlebaugh (Jun 9, 2011)

ok, so i have started on the valve springs. heres a little DIY on Valve Springs.

first grab a :beer:
next,

here is the right compressor tool needed for the job.:thumbup:



compress the valve spring and...



take out the " keepers"


DO NOT LOOSE these, unless you already have replacements, you will need these later.

decompress the spring, and now remove the retainer and spring. should look like this.




pull the valve out about a 1/4" and check for any valve play in the valve seals. a little bit of play is ok, but if you can really move it around get them replaced.

NOTE* remove valve from other end and inspect it for damage, although you should be throwing a code if there is damage (ex. Misfire in Cylinder 3) ect. 

I was throwing CEL po303 ( Misfire in cylinder 3 ) and found out this was the cause.

Bent valve

picture above shows it not seating properly

Next clean the valve off, i use 1200 grit wet sand paper. wire brush works great also.

also clean the valve seat on the head.


next, put the valve back in and remember to oil it up real good.

Put the new springs and retainers in.
Compress the spring and guide it back into place over the valve stem.

Now grab the keepers and get them F****** in there. This is the most stressful part :laugh:
I use a little bit of oil to keep them true to the valve stem. The skinny side of the keepers go inward.



decompress the valve spring slowly, dont worry though the spring will seat itself.
Just GO SLOW so just in case you dont have keepers on properly they dont go shooting across your property.:thumbup:
if it hold true then the job on that spring is done.

End product :


My buddy and i Completed this job in under 30 minutes.


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

Kjheidlebaugh said:


> also... my jetta is a 1999.5 AEG 2.0l, i was under the impression that my jetta was the last ones to be built in germany and the sent to the U.S. there is a stamp on the block that reads:
> MEXICO so im guessing it was built in mexico?


I was under the impression ALL Jettas were Mexico/Brazil built. WVW vin = German, my MK4 Golf was but it was a 2 door, as almsot all 2 door/GTI bodies are German built, however it's not 100% true as anything with VAG products.

ALL AEGs are stamped Mexico, yes even my German built Golf.

Good job on doing work!


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

I see no mention of you replacing the valve stem seals. I'm _really_ hoping you did, for 2 reasons:

1) you already have everything apart, so replacing them would take you 2 additional minutes per valve.
2) by pulling the valves through the stem seal, you've ruined the interior of the seal...which necessitates replacing. 


And this is the correct compressor, btw...


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## Sortaflush (Feb 3, 2012)

Diy fail.


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

Definitely replace the valve stem seals like 911 said. I just got finished my 2.0 avh build about 3-4 months ago. Went with 276 TT cam, P&p'd head, upgraded valve springs and retainers etc, almost finished custom header, full header back 2.5" exhaust, UM tune with cam profile, custom SRI mani, new motor mounts, lightweight flywheel, vr clutch(needed replaced anyway).

Getting re-dyno'd in march, was dyno'd before header and SRI, motor mounts at 111whp on a mustang dyno.

As much as people flame you and tell you your wasting money, its fun to work on and my car has given me absolutely zero problems... 2.0 ftw:laugh::thumbup:

Goodluck with your build


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## Kjheidlebaugh (Jun 9, 2011)

thanks man, yeah its been a blast. :thumbup:


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

Kjheidlebaugh said:


> thanks man, yeah its been a blast. :thumbup:


What header are you going with for the setup?


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## Kjheidlebaugh (Jun 9, 2011)

02vwgolf said:


> What header are you going with for the setup?


 OEM with sai plugged

Might get an OBX header in like 2 weeks not sure yet


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

The OEM piece isnt really considered a header, but I wont get into the logistics of that. 

The OBX header is a great product. Inexpensive and good welds. I ran 2 (ABA) in the past and was very pleased with the quality of the product. As long as you use factory gaskets (not the crap they include in the kit) you will be fine.

Regarding plugging the SAI....what are your plans on defeating the CEL codes that will get thrown? Getting a tune that codes it out? Or have you located an AEG ECU that doesnt have SAI to get chipped? Because I hope you plan on chipping, otherwise you are only getting 70% potential out of that 270* cam. Most of that loss will be below 3500rpms.


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

911_fan said:


> The OEM piece isnt really considered a header, but I wont get into the logistics of that.
> 
> The OBX header is a great product. Inexpensive and good welds. I ran 2 (ABA) in the past and was very pleased with the quality of the product. As long as you use factory gaskets (not the crap they include in the kit) you will be fine.
> 
> Regarding plugging the SAI....what are your plans on defeating the CEL codes that will get thrown? Getting a tune that codes it out? Or have you located an AEG ECU that doesnt have SAI to get chipped? Because I hope you plan on chipping, otherwise you are only getting 70% potential out of that 270* cam. Most of that loss will be below 3500rpms.


He is right, and to be honest I have had both the giac tune and united motorsports... I will never use any tune other then UM again. And it codes out sai:thumbup:


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## Kjheidlebaugh (Jun 9, 2011)

i tuned right now stage 2 from gonzo. sai delete. i was going to get the obx header but they were on backorder

i also requested that he remove the o2 sensors as well but im still throwing codes there. 
so when i get the head rebuilt this weekend and it all back together im going to scan it and see what codes im throwing. i might have to go with a different tune.

where is the cheapest deal on the obx header?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Take this for what it's worth....Plug the rear sensor back up to the connector/harness. I don't know exactly what "rear O2 sensor delete" in Gonzo tune lingo means, but, chances are, even though the signal for the post-O2 was tweaked, I believe the ECU is still looking for the sensor signal. Having the sensor completely unplugged will throw a code.

I only speak from experience. I used to have a chip that "deleted the post-O2 sensor". And all it did was allow for running a test pipe or high flow cat without throwing a code. Unplugging it or even removing it from the exhaust stream threw a code. This was validated on two completely different chips from the same manufacturer. But again, I cannot speak for Gonzo's tune. Plug it back in and tuck the sensor up someplace dry and where the tip is not in contact with anything melt-able/flammable (heated sensor, remember) and see if the code comes back. 

Or better yet, get a scan done at your local auto parts place and report back. WIll know for sure, at that point, what the issue is.


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## tdijetta99 (Nov 1, 2007)

Jay-Bee said:


> I was under the impression ALL Jettas were Mexico/Brazil built. WVW vin = German, my MK4 Golf was but it was a 2 door, as almsot all 2 door/GTI bodies are German built, however it's not 100% true as anything with VAG products.
> 
> ALL AEGs are stamped Mexico, yes even my German built Golf.
> 
> Good job on doing work!


The country of origin is determined by the first digit of the VIN... 3-Mexico, W-Germany, and 9-Brazil...


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