# Project 2120vt Corrado



## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

Well i've finally started in on my project. I've been storing up parts for this for years now and it's begun. The other day i stripped my ABA motor down to a longblock, soon enough i'll have the internals out and be clearancing it for a 95.5mm crankshaft and boring it .5mm over. Get some custom pistons made and i'll be set! I'll have pictures later, but for now i'll hit you all up with the aquired parts list so far:
ABA longblock w/ all accessories& manifolds
20v cylinder head (Actually i have five, two of them AEB's, most need rebuilds)
95.5mm TDI crankshaft
Eurospec Sport H-beam connecting rods (159mm)
GT-28RS turbocharger
European N/A 20v intake manifold for custom manifold
AEM Programmable engine management w/ C2DI ignition box and Wideband A/F ratio setup
Complete 02M 6-speed conversion
02M Quaiffe differential
Spearco Water-Air intercooler (2-231 assembly, BIG)
Dry sump oil pump
Mocal thermostatic sandwich plate
Assorted oil coolers
AEB head gasket set
























































I'm shooting for 300-350 whp on a high boost setting, with a 2066cc motor that will run on gasoline as well as E85 alternative ethanol fuel. Any Q's you can hit me up whenever you want








~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
So I've delved into the innards of the 2.0 ABA longblock and started sizing new components to fit in it. I'll just list it out by components to try to make it easier:
Crankshaft-
Comparing both TDI and ABA crankshafts, they're not that dissimilar but I suppose that can be expected. Flywheel ends are identical with six bolt hubs. The main difference is on the timing belt side of the house. The TDI uses a different timing ring, just a pressed ring with four notches in it where as the ABA crank has a 58 tooth wheel with a gap. They're interchangeable though, with the removal of a locator pin on the TDI shaft. The end needs to be machined down to ABA specs as well, but there's plenty of material so i don't forsee any difficulties. Fits right int he lathe i've got here
































Block-
I got the TDI crank in with the stock rods and pistons. It came a bit close on the casting where the oil pump is located but the H-beam rods are a bit more compact around the corners so it will clear no problems. The only interference comes in the form of the oil squirters. I suppose i'll just plop the block up on our bridgeport mill and take a bit of material off and It should be smooth sailing! Interesting note though. I measured the height of the block and it's not the 236mm quoted all over the internet. I measured mine to the sum of around 226mm, and I don't think the block was ever decked, and if it was 10mm is an outrageous amount to deck. Stock running gear had plenty of room!
***EDIT***
Remeasured the block and i was using hte caliper wrong







236.5mm
Rods-
I've come to find out the rods Eurospec sport sells are probably equivalent to SCAT or some other low cost chinese manufacturer. They'll still do everything i need them to. Upon closer inspection today they take a 20mm wrist pin not a 21mm wrist pin. Where the bigger pin would be nice, 1.8t's make rediculous power with 20mm ones so i'm not too concerned. Stock rods are beautiful pieces that are rifle drilled to supply wristpins with oil. Just another reason why OBD-1 ABA motors are awesome to turbocharge!
Pulleys-
Probably the only questionable thing. I was looking at th pulleys on the 1.8t cylinder head and the ABA motor and they've got different toothed belt sizes. So either I can somehow fit an earlier cam pulley on the 20v head or get a collection of 1.8t pulleys. It'll work itself out. I'm also curious what TDI pulleys look like for that matter.
Flywheel-
So I pulled the 02M 6-speed flywheel and clutch assembly apart last night and the thing is horrible! The flywheel is probably 25-30 pounds of dual mass crap. Dad being the experienced motor builder he is suggested pulling the ring gear off that flywheel and making a new flywheel from that. We'll see what happens there as well.








Thoughts for the future of my clutch? Something like this tilton triple plate converted to a dual plate system maybe?


















_Modified by Geoff Rood at 4:53 PM 7-25-2005_


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## all-starr-me (Jul 14, 2003)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (Geoff Rood)*

Wow, awesome project. Is that a mk4 TDI crank? The mk3 TDI ones don't have the oil pump chain teeth on them, but are harder to find. Does the AEM setup use coil packs or a distributor? You could keep your block mounted distributor if you need one. Otherwise get a 9A (2.0 16V) oil pump and blockoff for it. For the timing belts you can use a 9A crank pulley and a 9A intermediate shaft with gear or you can modify the ABA intermediate shaft keyway to accept the 9A IM gear. They might need spaced out a slight bit to get it to all line up, but go with the 20V and 16v belts, they are wider for a reason, driving 2 cams is harder than just one. also the 9A intermediate gear drives the oil pump faster than the 8v one, as it has twice as many lifters and cams to keep oiled.


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## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (all-starr-me)*

I do believe it's a Mk4 crankshaft now that you mention it.
As for the AEM setup i've got a C2DI which is a capacitive discharge ignition. As far as i've looked into the instructions you basically wire it up to coil packs, so the stock coil packs are what i'm going to use. I suppose it just provides the coilpacks with an awesome punch of power for the spark. 
Oil pumps are still a bit of a toss up right now. I've got some dry sump gear I might end up using, but the stock pump is still a very attractive option.. The IM shaft still has the gear on the end and the block has a hole for a distributor setup but i haven't looked into any of the details on that as AEM is a complete standalone. 
Thanks for the belt info though, I hadn't even thought about using 16v gears. Those will undoubtedly be easy to source. I'll have to look into that


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## 1967ghia (Jan 28, 2003)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (Geoff Rood)*

that is off the HOOK!!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (Geoff Rood)*

So i started taking apart a late model A4/Passat small valve head. Once disassembled i ported it to see if i could get it to AEB specs. This first port is just to see if i would puncture any water jackets or oil passages, nothing so far, so i'll clean it up and flow it, then compare it to an AEB casting and see what happens! The dustpan contains aluminum i swept up from ONE PORT!








































So i go to pick up my block today. I had it bored out at Chucks Engine whatever the hell in Plymouth. They were supposed to bore it to 3.262". Turns out the bastards were too lazy to do a finishing cut and left a big gash in three of four cylinders when the boring bar came up. Should have enough material left to hone the gashes out, but the big thing is they let the boring bar go way too far down in one of the end cylinders, cutting into the bearing structural material. Photos' posted


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## Gtibunny20v (May 19, 2005)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (Geoff Rood)*

You will need an ABA headgasket and to modify the cyl head. Using the AEB gasket will just cause a leak.


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## purple-pill (Feb 2, 2003)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (Gtibunny20v)*

what type of crank gear does that 95.5 take...it looks like it has a flat instead of a key way.


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## TURBOPHIL (Jan 31, 2002)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (purple-pill)*


_Quote, originally posted by *purple-pill* »_what type of crank gear does that 95.5 take...it looks like it has a flat instead of a key way.

Saw that , you could have a gear specially made for that setup. There is a guy here in GA that makes gears for whatever dimension you want, only thing he take a long A$$ time to do it.
Digging you project, keep the pics and info coming. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Herumfahren (Sep 17, 2004)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (TURBOPHIL)*

Looks like that engine is gonna be a killer. Keep it up.


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## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (Herumfahren)*

Spent a little time out in the garage today and calling places. I'll address the differences between AEB and other 20v heads.
AEB: 11mm cylinder head bolt, large port head. Shape of the port is straight with a steep turn towards the valve face. The port has more angular features than other 20v ports, IE the raised platform that directs flow into the center valve.
Other: 10mm cylinder head bolt, small port head. Shape of port has sweeping curves and has a very shallow entrance into the combustion chamber with very little material to radius on the inside edge. Probably aids in swirl inside the chamber. Ported out to large port gasket i had no problems with water jackets or oil drains.
I'll have definitive proof when i get the flow bench set up. I have to flow the stock AEB head first. Then the AEB head i gasket matched. After that the modified small port head and a stock small port head. I'll be in the garage for days!!!








I called ARP about head studs. Yes raceware is the only supplier of true AEB platform studs. However at the incredible price of $230 for my application i've decided to see if anything ARP will work. Right now the 1.8-2.0 8v head stud kit is looking about the right length. I'll either need custom/new nuts for the kit or to turn down the ones supplied with the kit. Standard 8v kits come with a .700" flange diameter where i'm looking more at .600". Keep you posted with that one. I'm going to test fit a 16v stud kit tomorrow to see if the studs are straight enough for the head to easily slide down.
Head gasket duty will be taken care of by Cometic. They have a multi-layer steel unit (similar to the bits used on corrado G60's) that is perfectly suited to my application. Part number C4246-051 is capable up to 85mm bore. They include some motor codes so you can choose accordingly. ABF is on there so it will line up perfectly. They can be had for about $80 + shipping if you shop around.
As for the crankshaft gear, I've got a 16" lathe and the plan was to turn the tip down to accept a 16v or 20v crank pulley. Still searching for a pulley though.


_Modified by Geoff Rood at 3:45 PM 8-22-2005_


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## PITGUY (Nov 16, 2003)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (Geoff Rood)*

the studs isn't the problem it is the nut's that's why the raceware are so expensive .
also have you looked into the aba Laminated metal gasket they cost $19.85 at Germanautoparts


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## Gtibunny20v (May 19, 2005)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (Geoff Rood)*

OEM headbolts hold 350whp no problem


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## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (Gtibunny20v)*

Holy crap what a day. I drove down to Upper Sandusky Ohio today to pick up my new longblock motor i won on ebay. I won the bid for $25 dollars and the bastard used a loophole in the shipping bit, $50 for shipping AND pickup. What a crutch. So roughly $100 and i've got a 100k mile 1996 ABA motor. I was a bit curious pulling it apart (as it is an OBD2 motor lacking oil squirters and the forged crank) what was going to be inside. Got it apart to find the oil squirter holes were still there! Just plugged with some allen studs. Joy! The crank looks to be forged as well. Maybe i can sell some of this crap to make my money back LOL. CLEANING STARTS AGAIN!


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## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (Geoff Rood)*

So I got my 3-point seatbelts in from Germany. I wanted to be thorough with this mod and completely get rid of the automatic belt system. Little did I know that that would involve this:








Yeah that system loops from the A-pillar, behind the back seats, and back around to the fuse panel. I just found out that I managed to install the belt slider on the passenger side without one vital bit and now it's all coming back apart tomorrow. When it's done though it'll be SCHWEET! This is what has come out:








And for those of you that want to see my work area right now. I'm sharing with Dad and Mom wants to have a space to park in the winter so we'll have to get a move on








Left Garage:








Right Garage:








My parts collection:


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## psykokid (Apr 2, 2002)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (Geoff Rood)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Geoff Rood* »_
European N/A 20v intake manifold ...


















Where did you manage to pick up the ADR intake manifold for and for how much? i need to get one of those for the N/A 20V motor we are building for our race car to attach the itb's to..


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## link1235jeffvw (Sep 28, 2004)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (Geoff Rood)*

why u useing tdi parts


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## VwCrazykid (Nov 8, 2003)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (link1235jeffvw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *link1235jeffvw* »_why u useing tdi parts 
He's turnign the 2.0 aba block into a 2.1 by using the bigger tdi crank


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## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (Wizard-of-OD)*

I would have to say a destroked motor of 1850cc's with a nice set of cams for a 20v head would make more hp in the end than my motor simply because where I'm going to limit myself to 6500 RPM due to piston speed, you will be able to rev up to nearly 7300 RPM. To put that into perspective for everyone. If each motor made 100 lbft of torque at that RPM, my motor at 6500 RPM would make 123 hp, where his motor at 7300 RPM would make almost 140. That's the key to Honda/Acura motors putting down high hp numbers. VTEC allows people to run cam profiles near race cams for the top end while keeping a nice streetable cam profile for the bottom of the rev band. Also, for those of you that think longer stroke motors make more torque, that's incorrect. Two motors of equal displacement with unequal strokes, the short stroke motor has the advantage. Less hp is lost to friction of piston rings moving on the cylinder walls. However you can't really get any bigger without stroking a VW because it's bore is limited. My goal is more a broad flat torque band, we'll have to see if my extra 200cc's will help spool the turbo faster


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## jsnVR6 (Feb 5, 2001)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (Geoff Rood)*

I am slightly confused with rod ratios. A honda ITR has a ratio of around 1.5. That motor spins to 8k from the factory. According to all the theory that motor should have some major problems with piston speed.

Can you explain that? You seem to be doing a lot of calculating for your engine and I would like to know what you think about the honda engines in reference to this rod ration stuff.


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## billzcat1 (Sep 10, 2001)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (JsnVR6Corrado)*

Rod:stroke ratio does not affect piston speed - average piston speed is calculated from stroke and rpm. Doesn't matter if you have a 144mm rod or a 90000mm rod, the piston still travels the same distance per unit time.


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## 93vr (Mar 25, 2005)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (billzcat1)*






















i wounder if its gonna be fast.............


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## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (Geoff Rood)*

UPDATE!
Yeah stuff's been going kind of slow. I turned my block over tosome friends of my dad's to get washed and bored. They sure are taking their sweet assed time about it too. When it gets back i'll bore the oil squirters a little more clearance and paint the block.
As for cylinder heads. I'm constructing a valve compressor simliar to those used on 8v motors. I'm sourcing some plates and bars to make it. To hold the valves in place i'm using Por-A-Kast. It's basically two liquids you mix together and pour into a mold to make a plastic bit in that form. I did that four times over in one combustion chamber. These molds get placed on a base plate that the head gets bolted to and when you compress the springs the valves don't open. We'll see how it works later.
If anybody else decides to do this though. When you pour your molds allow a bit more than the recommended set times. I pulled some of mine out too soon and they were still a bit gooey. Sticking to the head and ripping apart on their way out.








































I've also been working on a flow bench adapter. I've got the main flow tube machined to the right specs, just have to machine the polycarbonate plates to accept it, glue it all together and rethread the threaded bits to make it work correctly. Then i'll start pumping out flow numbers!








I also CC'ed a stock combustion chamber. I need a better cover to get really accurate results, but it came out to about 45cc's for a small port cylinder head. I'm guessing it will be the same for all 20v heads in an unmodified condition. I'll probably deck the head to clean and nothing more. I'll CC it then too to show how much milling changes the volume of the combustion chamber.


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## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

_Quote, originally posted by *Geoff Rood* »_
Thoughts for the future of my clutch? Something like this tilton triple plate converted to a dual plate system maybe?









...


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## 2doorV6 (Jan 29, 2003)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (Geoff Rood)*

everything looks great


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## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (Geoff Rood)*

Okay so i've been lagging considerably on my project. Lazy me I know. Project 2120vt is not just an engine or transmission swap though. It's an entire car makeover. In the process of doing the sunroof swap I, like Matt, decided a nice faux suede headliner would have to be done







Ingredients: 2 Yards ultrasuede fabric, 1 can 3M Super Trim Adhesive, All interior trim components that are grey. I started with the sunroof shade, seeing as it was the most rigid and flat. It has the standard grey passat fabric that is foam backed. Upon taking the fabric off the foam stuck. I decided to leave it in light it might provide a better glueing surface. Time will tell. 3 layers of glue on each surface, let tack for a few minutes and join. I put it on back to front because it was the easiest way to line the fabric up. I was a little apprehensive at first about the stickyness of the glue as my research said 3M headliner stuff was weak. SUPER TRIM ADHESIVE HAS A WELL EARNED NAME! This stuff is insanely goey and stupidly sticky. The can sprays in streams instead of a mist so you have to basically tattoo your pieces like you would a toaster struddel. We'll see tomorrow how it sets up. I did the headliner next and it was an entirely different experience.
First I cut a loose template with plenty of margin for error. I didn't want any curves in the headliner itself to pull the fabric up and leave an empty spot. I decided to leave the 'carpet' layer on because it seems to be well bonded to the fiber board liner so. I just glued directly over it. In glueing and putting down my recommended 3 layers i ran out of glue on the 2nd. I would recommend if anyone tries this get two of the 19 oz cans! I'm hopign this mod lasts forever but who knows. Also, in retrospect, finding a fabric that had some stretch value to it would be appreciated. Getting it in the contours of the sun flappy things was a PAIN. It's being held down with those air filled packing baggies right now but it's still like stretching fabric over a drum if you get what I mean. I'm open for questions if anyone has them.
I also test painted my water pump and housing in the 'Toyota Forklift Blue' spray enamel that will go on my block. I'll get pictures of that later. Other updates are due to the top of the block not being perfectly level the cylinders were bored at an angle on the second block. The top deck was faced level and rebored and now i'm shooting for 83.5mm bore and 95.5mm stroke to yield 2092cc's of pure torque steer inducing power! I'll be sending off an application for custom Mahle Motorsport pistons. Looking for a slipper piston design such as these. Left is a CAST piston. Very similar to OE stuff and right is a forged slipper piston. Note differences...
















If any of you know the troubles i've been having with my sunroof then i'm having more. What a pain of a design.... I'm epoxying something together and hopefully that survives assembly as well.
Pictures for all you non reading types:
Ingredients








Test fit for sunroof shade








Commando style sunroof shades








Top of two yards!








What's left...








Sunroof setting








Template








Roof setting...


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## 20vK (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (Geoff Rood)*

I'm watching this thread - nice work.
I hear you about the dual-mass flywheel - weighs a tonne, doesn't it! I almost dropped the bugger and broke my foot, when I first picked it up!
Was looking at alternatives myself
keep up the good work


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## matsad (Dec 22, 2003)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (20vK)*

Just so you know, we've got a 930 at work with slipper skirt pistons in it and the thing burns a ton of oil. I'm not sure why, but it seems pretty tight otherwise, it was just rebuilt. Sure do look pretty, though, and the rest of your project is sick.





















-matt


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## Scracho (Nov 19, 2002)

*Re: (Wizard-of-OD)*

Looking good thus far... Keep it up


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## g60vw (Oct 3, 2002)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (Geoff Rood)*

Bump to go in my favorites! Nice.
Garth


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## WolfGTI (Jun 16, 1999)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (g60vw)*

Any updates lately?


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## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

Coming up with some 02M shifter box solutions. I'll post up progress in a few days







Buddy of mine has the pictures :T


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## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

*Re: (Geoff Rood)*

I know it's been too long since I posted, but I have been doing things here and there, especially in the last few days. My new pistons came in and it's given me a bump in morale, as well as Motorstadt! Great time by the way guys. So here's a bit of the work I've been up to:
Got the wiring harnesses out and most of the crap coming through the firewall, as seen here:








Pistons came in. Unfortunately JE doesn't stock a forging for the box or slipper style that I was planning on, so I just got some custom run of the mill JE pistons...
















This was after I was doing some test fitting of the motor/trans in the car. The transmission mount is going to be a little complex to get all the measurements for. I'll make one like dutchdub.com has on their website.








I've been working for a while on my clutch dilemma. Getting an aftermarket slave cylinder to fit in the 02M would be a little hard because of the cramped quarters around the input shaft. I've decided to take a stock 02M unit and turn a new piston in the lathe and use that. Unfortunately I got the slave cylinder I have and took it apart past the point of doing that with it, so I'll need to purchase a new one. Here is it in pieces. The green circle is around the piston that will need to be replaced, and the blue circle is around the release bearing, which is integrated. I'll have to get a different one to support the clutch springs I'm going to be using.








I did some calculations and found that if i retained the G60 clutch master cylinder (3/4" piston diameter), the pedal pressure would be about 54 pounds and have a throw of 2 3/4". The Mk4/02M unit is a 5/8" piston, meaning a lighter pedal pressure and longer throw (37 lbs and 3.94"). This will make the car more driveable and the clutch less of an on/off affair. Here is the old metal one compared to my partially modified mk4 plastic master cylinder.








I'm going to have to machine that bit of aluminum at the end to fit on the pin on the clutch pedal, and thread the rod to accept it with a locknut. Not too hard all in all. I had to machine some top hat washers to get the master cylinder to fit nice and snug on the bolts on the firewall. They work beautifully!








I also got the shifter box about the right spot. I still need to do some grinding to get the new spacers to work correctly, but here is one of the spacers actually on the shifter box for an idea of what I'm doing:


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## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (Geoff Rood)*

Broke out the die grinder today and went to town on the tunnel. I also machined the required spacers. The shifter box fits very well now. I had to make my holes a little bigger and clearance for one of the shift arms, but using one custom 19mm nut, it is held firmly in place. I'll have to finish tapping the other nut and get it put in and work on the plate to support the rear of the shifter box!


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## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (Geoff Rood)*

Holy crap a productive day. I got the shift box in now, as well as the trim...trimmed? to fit! Here's some picture goodness. I couldn't ask for a more factory look huh. Next step is to install the trans/block and test the gear positions, cut the shift rod and thread it to accept my new shift knob. Find a sewing machine and make my ultrasuede shift boot


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## talx (Apr 4, 2003)

*Re: (Wizard-of-OD)*

Actually it has bin tested and there are many cars driving around with it with out any problem to my knowledge http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (talx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *talx* »_Actually it has bin tested and there are many cars driving around with it with out any problem to my knowledge http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Really?
I didnt think it was available to the public as yet


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## yellowslc (Aug 29, 2000)

*Re: (Wizard-of-OD)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Wizard-of-OD* »_
Really?
I didnt think it was available to the public as yet









I'd venture to say there are a dozen plus of them out there in use.


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## yellowslc (Aug 29, 2000)

*Re: (yellowslc)*

And you're upset that the fabking won't make you a tubular one like mine


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## PITGUY (Nov 16, 2003)

*Re: (yellowslc)*

he had two of them


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## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (Geoff Rood)*


_Quote, originally posted by *yellowslc* »_I'd venture to say there are a dozen plus of them out there in use.

Anyone stateside?I retract my statement then.After asking a couple of friends over the pond,turns out alot of them are using the dutchdub bracket which is holding up. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Quote, originally posted by *yellowslc* »_And you're upset that the fabking won't make you a tubular one like mine









Who said it was yours?


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## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (Wizard-of-OD)*

I've decided to make a trans mount similar to the Dutchdub version, but mine won't require cutting and welding my flippin K-frame... 
I've done some measuring over the past few days, as well as some injuring. First things first. I got my Saab clutch release bearing in. It looks like it will work, but it's got a 50mm contact diameter versus the Tilton recommended 44mm. It will work just fine, but the pedal will be approximately 7% heavier. Here's some numbers...
565 lbs spring release pressure (about 604 lbs w/ the saab bearing)
5/8" Clutch master cylinder diameter (Stock Mk4)
0.307 in^2 master cylinder piston area
.978 in^2 slave cylinder piston area
Clutch pedal lever advantage approx 4.75:1
(((604 / .978) * .307) / 4.75) = 39.9 lbs pedal pressure required
I tried to measure my other corrado's sport pressure plate for comparison and got between 30 and 50 pounds. Kind of hard to get an accurate reading. Only difference is it's twice the number of friction plates. I've sourced some cerametallic four puck clutch disks from Mardi Gras Motorsports in england. They get their stuff from a clutch company called Helix Autosport. They're the 02M spline diameter (which no US disk maker produces). This clutch should be good for 400-440 lbs ft of torque no slippage and super low rotating mass. I have to redesign my flywheel and i'm still having a bit of trouble getting the old ring gear off the stock 02M flywheel. Gonna try a new approach in the coming days.
As for the release bearing, it will require an adapter machined from something strong to hold the release bearing. It will be a fairly straight forward modification of an OE slave cylinder. This will also allow the use of OE components between the trans and master cylinder, retaining my favorite manufacturer look








Axles is a bit of an interesting affair. Everyone knows Mk4's differ greatly from Mk2/Mk3/Corrado in terms of axles. 02A axles have one solid (Drivers) and one hollow (passenger) axle. Both 02M axles are hollow and very nicely made. The outer CV joints are completely different splines inside and out. I'm going to have to cut the 02M axles to the correct length, and find another 02A passenger axle. My plan is to cut the outer CV joint end off the 02A axles as they're hollow and only .5mm smaller in diameter (42mm vs. 42.5 for the 02M). I will have these welded and straightened for a fraction of the cost of custom axles. I don't plan on throwing mad amounts of torque at them any time soon after the car is running, let alone abuse. I'm confidant they will hold up well.
I bought a Mk3 2L K-frame from ebay. I'll be cleaning it up and using that to update the car to Mk3 mounts. Bildon sells some nice HD/Group N racing moutns made from rubber, which will let me avoid going to solid metal or poly/delrin mounts. Trying to make the car a bit comfortable at 300+ whp







Front subframe will come from a friend of mine. I'll get all the front suspension bushings and control arms etc. cleaned up and installed at that time. Maybe find some nice koni coilovers to get in at the same time!
I was working on the mocking up of the 02M the other day, testing the shifter operation. When i took the trans off the block it rotated in my hands and cut the crap out of my left hand. Nice big gouge in my left ring finger and it sheered a piece of flesh clean off my left pinky. This is the picture i've got, it's after a few days of healing LOL








That's it for now, i'll get some more pictures up in the next few days.


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## yellowslc (Aug 29, 2000)

*Re: (PITGUY)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PITGUY* »_he had two of them

And I know where both are currently residing








Impressive work on the tilton clutch.. I was considering the same.


----------



## VRT (Dec 8, 2001)

*Re: (yellowslc)*

Hve you trimed your block yet for the crank and rods?


----------



## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

My dad disassembled my rods a while ago and now my bolts are missing, so i don't know where to clearance LOL I'm cleaning my Mk3 subframes now and looking at the mounts. The rear mount is going to be the hardest to figure out. We'll see. Man road grime doesn't like coming off, i'll grind the rust off and sand the surface and POR 15 it all


----------



## Mr Black (Jan 20, 2002)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (billzcat1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *billzcat1* »_Rod:stroke ratio does not affect piston speed - average piston speed is calculated from stroke and rpm. Doesn't matter if you have a 144mm rod or a 90000mm rod, the piston still travels the same distance per unit time. 

This is a bit off topic but this ain't right. Your AVERAGE piston speed works out the same but the peak speeds and more importantly acceleration is greater, which stresses the rod bolts, wristpins and the rods themselves. 
Nice build BTW


----------



## 1.BillyT (Aug 2, 2000)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (Gtibunny20v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Gtibunny20v* »_OEM headbolts hold 350whp no problem

They'll hold a lot more than that...


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (Geoff Rood)*

Looks like I have to post this every couple of months:
Whats the progress Geoff?


----------



## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

Well I was trying to keep progress a secret








The project took a bit of a stop when I started school 500 miles away.
Truth is I've got axles on the way to completion, a transmission mount is done, a flywheel/clutch solution is looming in the near future, hopefully with a little help from SPEC. Koni's are on the car, brake system is ready to go in but without an Engine I don't see a point yet. Fuel system is about to be ordered up, and I'm getting parts in to make the turbo manifold soon







I'll throw up a few pictures later today with a bit of a more in depth write up.


_Modified by Geoff Rood at 5:35 AM 8-14-2007_


----------



## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

*Re: (Geoff Rood)*

Here's an update:
Shifter box mounts in very securely now and the pivot for the shifter is located in the OE location! Still need to make a bracket to clip the trim piece cover to though. Got it cut to the length I want it and threaded for the A4 6-speed shift knob. It matches the rest of the interior AND the shift pattern
























I got the subframe coated with four coats of POR15, spindles too, everything is getting rebuilt. Unfortunately I had to cut off the transmission mount from the subframe and weld it back on somewhere so it wouldn't interfere with the drive axle.
(Dont' worry, I put new boots on the steering rack!)
















So I got Koni Coils in the mail as well, thanks WRD







Now I can leave the car in the driveway at stock ride height and the neighbors won't complain LOL!








Got the transmission side mount for the 02M built and the engine sits completely level and as perfect as I could want, here's a picture of it bare:








Working on an axle solution too, using stock G60 axles and 02M six speed axles, i'm going to cut and join until I have the right combination of inner and outer CV joints







It's official though, I despise CV joint grease with all of my being.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (Geoff Rood)*

Looking good. Just one question though. Why not use the Vr/Late 5 lug Spline that is larger? Do you already have a set of 4x100 wheels?
I really wanted to go to an 02m in my project, but I couldn't find one at a decent price.
FWIW: I have shortened/Extended quite a few axles w/o any issues. I usually find a piece of pipe with the proper inner diameter then turn the axle down a tad (if necessary) so it would be a press fit. Then Cut the axle and press both halves into the sleeve, then weld. Perfect true axle. Based on seeing what you have done so far, I have no doubt that you have your own ideas and it will be tip top.
Shawn


----------



## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

I didn't have any VR hubs or CV's available really, just using what I have on hand to keep costs down. That and I have six 16" BBS RC's in 4x100 that are going on the car








As for the method I'm using, it was just the first idea that jumped out at me, after seeing the .2mm difference between axle ID and OD's.
Thanks for the support


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (Geoff Rood)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_
I really wanted to go to an 02m in my project, but I couldn't find one at a decent price.


Funny how things can change so quickly. The right deal came along just in time, and now an 02m is back in my plan for my 2020. Now, I am just trying to figure out everything. There is surprising little information (specifics) that I have been able to find in this forum as well as the Manual Transmission archives regarding axles and mismatching stuff. There are a few dead links too.
*My immediate question is:*
I know the axles are different lengths and there does not appear to be any off the shelf VW axles (US) that will work w/o shortening which is fine, but I am trying to find any information on the amount to shorten them etc.
Currently I have the 4 Lug non-plus suspension on the car, but have everything to go to the Vr+ (if that suits me). What I "Roughly" measured up last night was that the Full length of the 02m diff with it's stock axles and CVs from outer flange of CV to outer Flange of CV appears to be about 1.5" wider than the +Vr suspension (so close but yet so far). Does that sound right to you? I guess you would need to add another inch of difference (~2.5") if you are comparing the non + suspension. again, these were rough measurements so, let me know if I am off here.
The ends of the outer CVs that go through the hubs (splines and length of splines) are the same on the Corrado Vr and the 03 Beetle-S ones I have except that the Beetle uses a bolt through the hub vs a shank and nut as all other prev VWs. Still need to check to see if the Beetle CV would clear the Corrado Spindles and such too.
I won't clutter up your build thread any more with my questions, but I just wanted to get your take on the above, it would give me a good start.
Shawn


----------



## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

*Re: (sdezego)*

TWO YEARS! OMG! Anyway I thought I'd give you all an update to my ridiculously slow work. I haven't stopped, but a year of school at Michigan Tech and this years schooling have significantly slowed progress. I have been making some though, some of the harder basic stuff is almost out of the way!
I did manage to get some Koni Coils on the car, the city was complaining about having a non-registered disassembled car, so I lowered the front down and now from the street you can't even tell the car is in pieces LOL. Right now the entire front suspension has been rebuilt, bearings, bushings, coatings. I have the breaks painted up and ready to go with new Brembo OE rotors and greenstuff pads just waiting to go in.
I finally got the block cleaned up and ported out some internal oil galleys. The pressure side of the oil pump actually has to force oil around a large part of the pump housing that the axle for one of the rotors sits in. Looks like this:








So I made a template of where the pump sits:








And ported it out. Dad says these are the sorts of things that make real racing engines. I'll go along with that
























Got the block all washed up, cleaned out and painted it:








That's about where the block stands right now. As for the clutch system, ENTIRELY different story. I finalized designs for the dual-plate Tilton clutch design and bought some steel to make a flywheel, as nobody makes a flywheel for this application. I got a 12" disc, about 3" long. Basically it was a 50 pound disk of steel.
















After a while I got a decent looking front face:








Then a profiled front face:








Then after a little debating, we decided on how to flip it over and do the back face!








After we got it all profiled, took it off and did a test fit on the nose of the crank. PERFECT fit, just like factory flywheels. Too tight to push on, and requiring some bolts to pull it down to the crank.
























Now by this point the only step left was to dimension the CAD drawing and bolt it down to the mill to do holes. I opted for some weight reduction as well. Each weight reduction hole took a starter drill, a 10mm or 3/8" hole, then a 3/4" endmill and finally a 1" endmill. OMG I have a lifetime of labor into this flywheel
















And yes there's seven holes for the crankshaft bolts. I screwed up mirroring the bolt pattern after thinking about doing it right for about 10 minutes. I decided measure twice cut once wasn't enough, so I measured until i couldn't think about it and cut something anyway LOL. Solution? I'll turn down a plug and stick it in there with some green loctite.
















My Grandad actually helped me rip the ring gear off the old OE dual mass flywheel, it took about two hours to get it off. Cleaned it up, heated it up with an acetalyne torch for a few minutes and dropped it on. It's got something like 1 or 2 thou press fit at that point. Got some stitch welds on it now to hold in in place like the factory ring.








I called SPEC to help me out with some clutch discs after I met a rep at Waterfest the first time I went. Amazingly they cut me a killer deal for some custom made 02M discs! The first set they sent wasn't up to the specs that I told their engineer, so i sent the disc that was wrong back and they machined it to spec and sent it back free of charge!
















I have to send the clutch cover in and get it rebuilt. I'm going to get a lower tension spring to reduce pedal pressure and get the clutch torque capacity where I want it. It should be good for something like 360 lb-ft. The other part to using this clutch is that the 02M release bearing is of the wrong design. the 02M bearing is flat and the radius is on the clutch fingers, where Tilton designs their fingers flat for use with a bearing that has a radius. Solution? Hack up the a brand new slave cylinder and design my own piston.
























It still needs a notch cut in the bottom and I have to find somewhere that will throw it in for a bit of Type III hard anodizing so it doesn't destroy itself.
The crankshaft also had to be modified. There's pictures up of us doing the turning on the lathe to get the nose the correct profile as a gasser motor, but the crank still needed to be notched for a gasser timing pulley, so we finally got it up on some v-blocks, dialed everything in, and went to town:
















Another common problem plaguing the ABA/16V/20V world is a proper crank pulley. Because its' designed for an 8v timing pulley, it sticks out 6mm too far when mounted up to a 16V/20V timing pulley. My original answer came in the form of machining down a billet aluminum under drive pulley from Ebay, but Dad came in and said it's better to have a damper. I guess they have all sorts of benefits, so we sat down and I told him how it was going to be. He over thinks a lot of stuff. Basically I machined the back of the pulley off, down 6mm and bored it out .250", got it measured for bore, made a new bit of billet to be a press fit, Dad got it in there at work with some green loctite that apparently expands and hardens in a lack of oxygen, so it has the equivalent of a 10 ton press fit or something. Let it set for a few days, and machined it flush. here is the end result:
































Now I have the correct damper pulley for the ABA accessories I plan on using








Last but not least in the 02M swap, the requirement for new axles. Custom is the only way to go, as it's a mix of Mk2 and Mk4 generation kit. The original long (hollow) G60 axle OD measured up to be 42mm, and the 02M axles were both hollow with a 42.5mm OD. Seemed like a perfect match to me, so I eventually snagged another long G60 axle (as the other side is a solid bar) and started cutting. Lengths were determined through a series of measurements and I cleaned up the axle bits to length in the lathe. Dad and I decided some inserts to properly line up the axles with each other was the way to go. We got them to a VERY tight fit, welded on one side, got the two halves together and sent them to the welder to get glued together.
























After I got them back, I measured them and they were actually STRAIGHTER than factory axles. Imagine that LOL They're actually in the garage having the primer coat set, I have to get some black paint to finish them off. After they're all set i'll build them up and throw them in the shelves for later.
I did the transmission mount as well. Much in the same design as the dutchdub mount. Took several fitting sessions to get a nice design, and much thanks to Matt for the use of his welder and welding skills!
















NEXT UP!
-Send clutch off for rebuild
-Balance rotating assembly
-Build engine
-Fuel system install


----------



## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

*Re: (Geoff Rood)*

Well I got the crankshaft+flywheel+main pulley out the door for balancing, should be done early next week and I can start the engine build. I also got some pictures of the custom axles 99% assembled. Just have to put bands on the inner CV boots. The gorgeous weather this weekend has gotten me outside and solving electrical dilemmas, namely where to put the engine harness through. I started building it too!


----------



## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

*Re: (Geoff Rood)*

Well I put in about 8 hours today and made a lot of headway. Right now I'm stuck because I have no good ring grinder. Might have to wait until Monday to get a decent one, we'll see. Here's an update:
TEASER!!!!!








Anyway moving on. That was a ringless piston/rod in there so i could test fit the intermediate shaft, more on that in a minute.
Well I was having main bearing clearance issues so I had to take the block over to Champion Performance and have Joe over there hone out my main bearing bores to max-spec. Truth be told he went a tenth (0.0001") over, but my clearances are all in a good range now. So after that I got everything washed and prepped for assembly. Got the crank in and then I realized the crankshaft position wheel was sitting on the shelf... PULL IT ALL BACK APART! Start over, and after a few custom mods to the timing wheel I got that sucker installed!
























First problem: Oil squirters. After grinding an angle on them then i found that the head of the squirter bolt was interfering, so I took some more drastic measures.
















Plenty of clearance now (hopefully)
Next thing to worry about, I had heard some people had some problems with intermediate shaft interference. Well I had that to boot. Spent a few hours machining, cleaning, test fitting, and this is the final product that you guys get to see.








And now, this is where I'm at!








Other little things I got finished: Both front and rear seal carriers are installed, got the intermediate shaft cover cleaned up and new seals and crap on it, ready to go. Flywheel is busy receiving a coat of paint to inhibit rust. It was getting some wicked surface rust after I got it balanced. I still need to do some cleaning on the oil pump as well as all the bigger things, but I'm making good headway and things are falling into place.


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (Geoff Rood)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Geoff Rood* »_
First problem: Oil squirters. After grinding an angle on them then i found that the head of the squirter bolt was interfering, so I took some more drastic measures.

Same problem I had.I machined mine down 1.5mm in total so that they cleared the big 99mm counter weights. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Nice to see it come back Geoff!


----------



## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

*Re: (Wizard-of-OD)*

watching http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (Geoff Rood)*

You have access to some fun toys that I wish I did!
Looking good.
Shawn


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## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

*Re: (sdezego)*

Added to my watched topics http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 24vVr6gti (Oct 18, 2004)

*Re: (RipCity Euros)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RipCity Euros* »_Added to my watched topics http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

me 2


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## hallkbrd (Apr 8, 2000)

*Re: (Geoff Rood)*

Amazing machining.








I keep wondering when someone is going to make up an A2 02M kit with mounts and axles. I would love one, but don't have your skills to make it happen.


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## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

Even if there was a kit there's still a lot of work the end installer has to do, like modify the tunnel for the shifter box and cut up the K-frame to reweld the trans mount in the right spot.


----------



## 2doorV6 (Jan 29, 2003)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (Geoff Rood)*

great looking project, the 02m mount i built for my 24v swap in my mk2 looks similar to yours, good luck


----------



## cbdeane (Mar 10, 2008)

awesome project, keep it up


----------



## vanaman (Aug 26, 2003)

*Re: (cbdeane)*

i widh i had skills or acess to a skilled engine builder.
steve


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## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

*Re: (Wizard-of-OD)*

A LOT has happened in the past few days. I've started prepping components for the assembly of the head. I'm using a port matched AEB head that I took apart ages ago and I spent several hours searching my misc. parts for the cam caps, and a decent non-sludgy set of lifters and valve train components. Dad's giving the head a clean up at work for me and from what I hear it's coming up beautifully. That will come soon








Today my 16mm XZN special tool arrived and I drained the oil from my transmission! Then I proceeded to rip it into big fat geary peices!! In todays exploits i learned something interesting...
When you buy a Quaife, you get a Quaife...
When you buy a Peloquin, you get a Peloquin, with bearings already pressed on. You get a bolt kit, and you get the gasket (it was for an 02A). Moral of the story? I like Peloquin's idea of service more.
So after a prolonged battle with one of the shifter control rod mounting plugs, I finally got it apart.








After a few more minutes of trying to decide how exactly three shafts, four shifter rods and a differential come out at the same time, I got everything apart...








Then I started digging in!!!








And I stopped at this point:








Dad's going to take the differentials in after he finishes the head to measure the dimension from bearing to bearing. This will let us know if it will require re-shimming in the case or not.


----------



## LO-vw (Sep 24, 2001)

OMG THIS THREAD IS AMAZING!!
Wow your from Michigan I wonder if you know Gared?!?! 
He just built one of these!! except its a 2.2!!
http://****************.com/smile/emlove.gif


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (LO-vw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *LO-vw* »_
He just built one of these!! except its a 2.2!!

Using what crank


----------



## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

He's just messing around


----------



## LO-vw (Sep 24, 2001)

Porsche!! its insane!!








I http://****************.com/smile/emlove.gif Rood


----------



## vw_jason79 (Jul 10, 2006)

*Re: (LO-vw)*

Just had this link sent to me. Nice work. I am piecing a 2067cc together right now but am a long way off from building.


----------



## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

Well I got the differential all bolted up together, sorry no pics just yet, I'll throw some up of it when I put the trans back together.
In other news, I got the empty transmission case out with the crap block and head I have and threw it in to do some mock ups to see how much space for things I have and where to put things. One big issue was where to put the heat exchanger for the intercooler. Corrado's aren't known for their ample front airflow area. Luckily there's JUST enough space behind the front cross piece (ok with a little persuasion) to get my exchanger back there. It's a garrett unit from a Ford Lightning so I think it will work size wise, I'll just have to get some tabs put on it for mounting and move the inlet/outlet to the sides.








The intake manifold was worrying me. I do plan to go crazy and put some ITB's on this biaznitch so enough room between the engine and radiator, enough to fit an alloy plenum chamber was a worry.








Turns out I have about 9" from the 4th cylinder runner to the radiator, and I think I can do a bit of deviousness and get a manifold to fit. I drew up some basic stuff on CAD to show me how much space I have to work with.








I think it will put the intake runners at 11-1/2" to 12". That means that I will just barely get into the 4th harmonic for intake tuning at about my redline. Not really that great but hey, It's going to be ITB'd and turbo'd, what more can I ask for.
Also on the burner is some severe head modifications. As you may or may not know the 20v head has more oil drains than the ABA block does. Previous people who've done this have done such ingenioius modifications as NPT plugs with excessive plumbers tape. That was what I was thinking until Dad came along. None of that, not in this household.








Dad made a suggestion and I started work on the head right away. Milling counter sinks in the head for.... aluminum press fit plugs!
















Granted the top left plug is more there to offset the drain. I'll have to go back after the plug is in and bore a proper full diameter hole in there. After that, deck the head minimum to clean and it will be one nice flush smooth aluminum surface!


_Modified by Geoff Rood at 9:53 PM 5-21-2008_


----------



## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

*Re: (Geoff Rood)*

Sick, ive never seen anyone press fittings in, ive seen the holes welded, and plugs put in but thats cool what youre doing http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif . Project is looking good, keep the updates coming!


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (Geoff Rood)*

I plugged mine first and then welded them and decked the head.
Don;t forget about the corner drains. Because of their odd shape, they do not seal well against the ABA gasket. There is only a hair that hits the crush zone. Best to plug and then redill in proper location. I spent an insane amount of work on my head. A lot was probably unnecessary, but I am anal like that. If you want to see, you can check it out in my build thread in my sig.
Shawn


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (Geoff Rood)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Geoff Rood* »_
Also on the burner is some severe head modifications. As you may or may not know the 20v head has more oil drains than the ABA block does. Previous people who've done this have done such ingenioius modifications as NPT plugs with excessive plumbers tape. That was what I was thinking until Dad came along. None of that, not in this household

Geoff I have come to realise that there were different castings of the AEB head.The second oil drain @ the front of the cylinder head on some models is more oval in shape.What I did on mine @ first was plug and go and it worked but after I welded & decked the head.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project 2120vt Corrado (Wizard-of-OD)*

Issam, 
ETKA only lists one PN for the AEB head. Regardless of that, I am having a hard time believing that is an AEB head due to too many reasons to list.
I am not calling you a liar







, but I think someone was playing a trick on you *if* that was indeed your head *and* it was stamped AEB. I would glad to start a discussion on this outside of Geoff's thread.
Shawn


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*AEB Head*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_Issam, 
ETKA only lists one PN for the AEB head. Regardless of that, I am having a hard time believing that is an AEB head due to too many reasons to list.

ETKA also lists the same part #'s for different accessory belt pulley's.
If you are talking about my head (the image I posted).It could be an ADR cylinder head.All I know is that it is an authentic big port cylinder head.


----------



## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

Thanks for the heads up. Next chance I get I'll throw my gasket on to see about the drains lining up and all that jazz.
Right now I'm brainstorming on how to fit in the second row of injectors and where. I have a design with rough approximations for clearances on the hood and radiator etc.


----------



## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

*Re: (Geoff Rood)*

Still watching patiently


----------



## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

Update coming soon. Just started a job working 50 hours a week (on top of 8 hours of school) to help rebuild Honda IRL motors. Got some neat stuff done but I want to gather more before I throw it up


----------



## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

*Re: (Geoff Rood)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Hightboostvr6t (Mar 25, 2008)

*Re: (RipCity Euros)*

nice setup http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

*Re: (sdezego)*

First off I would immediately like to thank sdezego and the Wiz for bringing those corner drains to my attention. I didn't see them and I wouldn't have most likely, before the whole thing was built. Thanks guys! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
As I work this head over to perfection, I just look at the ports and see more and more areas to try to improve them. I have a sludged AEB I will probably try to port and see gains, but until this car actually runs, it's a secondary project to be taken up at a later date








Meanwhile the plugs are in the head, I had the corner drains welded by a friend who does business for my new employer, cut me a great deal on some welding. He's got a nifty welder that does aluminum and magnesium at room temp. I did clearance the coolant area in the picture below, i just neglected to get an after shot. It looks perfect though
















































Meanwhile I needed a third mount point for the front motor mount, currently there's two on the block where the starter bolts come through, and a third for a provision on an ABA's transmission. I fashioned up 6061 block to be welded on only to find out the 02M case is of a high magnesium content and the weld wouldn't hold. I was a bit disgruntled to hear that, as we at this point needed to find a bit of magnesium (not such an easy proposition) or find a different mount design. Next day Dad was going by a scrap bin at work, wouldn'tyou know it, a Nascar bell housing (MAGNESIUM YAY!). Turns out the car was set up wrong and they sanded the bottom of the housing and the ring gear off with the track. Another man's trash is my treasure! Hacked off the top bolt lug, machined it to fit and took it up to the welder. 10 minutes later I have myself a case!
Before:








After:
















In other news I did end up sending off my clutch slave cylinder out for anodizing. Shhh secrets that I can't divulge







Apparently it will come back next week hopefully with a new black anodizing. The final step to the transmission swap complete! The design of the piston itself was finalized and you'll see pictures up of it soon.
Next step now is to nab some paint, get the transmission case painted up and then I can do some more turbo manifold mock ups in the car. I've done a few mock ups and I need to do more to see how much room I have to work with.


_Modified by Geoff Rood at 3:39 PM 6-21-2008_


----------



## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

*Re: (Geoff Rood)*

A while ago at work during lunch, my Dad helped me get the head decked. I had it welded up, then did some work to open the holes up where they needed to be and ported the oil drains to ease flow back into the block. Here's some shots I took with my phone:
First cut, we used Dykem (blue stuff) to show when we got a nice flat surface








Here you can see where the welding warped the material, leaving a low spot








Final cut, .0022", cleaned up enough for us
















This weekend I put a few laborious hours (god damn valve keepers >.< ) assembling the cylinder head. Stuff is coming together, next week the transmission goes together, just have to give the case halves a final wash and bolt it up. Easy job there. Timed the cams as per A4 Bentley, what a whore of an assembly with that chain tensioner. It really would be easier with two people doing it but I had to make due. Threw on the studs and torqued the sucker down
































And in other news, my slave cylinder piston got finished with a black hard anodizing so the clutch/flywheel assembly is complete now










































_Modified by Geoff Rood at 5:32 PM 7-13-2008_


----------



## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

*Re: (Geoff Rood)*

Looks good, we all want to see this think running keep up the good work http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## batcat420 (Mar 15, 2006)

*FV-QR*

Awesome project and thread, man! You and your pops do some great work.


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## LO-vw (Sep 24, 2001)

hurry up and finish this geoff!


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## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (LO-vw)*

Looking good Geoff


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## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

Well after I got the transmission apart I took the case to work to get it cleaned up. Not sure if this is a recap but I'll throw it in anyway. I took some acid wheel cleaner to it and it basically corroded the crap out of the case because it's magnesium. Really there's no good way to clean magnesium without a lot of effort, so I went ahead and painted the case. Over the weekend I got the case final cleaned, all the gears and shafts washed off in the solvent tank, and put the bastard together. I learned you can't put an 02M together without two people and a lot of patience, and that the shifter rods are INCREDIBLY finicky. two of the shifters were JUST out of position and putting load on two syncros on the same shaft, thereby completely locking the transmission. It took a good hour or two to figure out what was going on before I could put the other half of the case on and glue it shut. It still needs some touch up painting but I'm happy with the result. Also, there was a small debacle with pouring 75w-90 in the drain plug and out the speedo sensor hole. Yes I didn't put the speedo sensor in and most of a quart lay on the floor. Lesson learned LOL
A sturdy box makes a nifty transmission assembly tool:








A collection of bastard gear shafts:








Finally, a bead of gray RTV!!!








Spins smooth as glass


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## LO-vw (Sep 24, 2001)

*FV-QR*

dude buy new shoes already!!!! those are like SOOOOO old lol http://****************.com/smile/emlove.gif


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## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (Geoff Rood)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Geoff Rood* »_I took some acid wheel cleaner to it and it basically corroded the crap out of the case because it's *magnesium*. 

EH?


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## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

*Re: (Wizard-of-OD)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Wizard-of-OD* »_
EH?

The 02M Transmission case... It's a magnesium alloy


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## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (Geoff Rood)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Geoff Rood* »_
The 02M Transmission case... It's a magnesium alloy

Its aluminum Geoff...


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## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

*Re: (Wizard-of-OD)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Wizard-of-OD* »_
Its aluminum Geoff...

Yes, this is why the master welder couldn't get the aluminum bit to weld on but he could get the magnesium one just fine. Also why the corrosion is black and not white?


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## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (Geoff Rood)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Geoff Rood* »_Yes, this is why the master welder couldn't get the aluminum bit to weld on but he could get the magnesium one just fine. Also why the corrosion is black and not white?

I thought the same thing until I tried it myself...

_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
And now the 02M is welded for extra strenght ....WHAT welded!??!!?








Aint 02m supa dupa carbon magnezium zhizzle ?
Not its just aluminium








Another vortex myth is busted 
And the plate is bolted on to keep it together instead of cracking the case.


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## DanielT (Jun 17, 1999)

*Re: (Geoff Rood)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Geoff Rood* »_
Yes, this is why the master welder couldn't get the aluminum bit to weld on but he could get the magnesium one just fine. Also why the corrosion is black and not white?

It might actually be that the 1.8t (tt/s3) 02m is a Magnesium alloy and that some 02m like the one originating from Golf 4motion might be plain aluminum. (foffa has a Golf V6 4motion case)
Several parts in the TT are TT specific and enhanced for weight reduction.
So foffa will probably have to open his eyes and see that some 02m really are made of Magnesium alloy.








We've been arguing about this in Sweden before.










_Modified by DanielT at 12:09 PM 7-28-2008_


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## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

*Re: (DanielT)*

Well it's been a long time since i've posted an update. Mostly due to my exhaust manifold exploits. Several trials and tribulations took place as I literally taught myself how to make this thing go together.
First, the engineer in me wanted to model it in CAD and know what i needed to do to make it work. This was probably the most frustrating mistake I've made so far, because it failed completely... twice... Then the time spent making the tooling to do this job. Stuff like a bracket to place the collector where it should fit, little nylon inserts to line up the tubes etc. I did leave my nylon insert in something when i tacked it, only to find it later when i needed to use it again and i had to cut everything apart to get it out :T
This led me to my cutting and grinding phase where I had to clean up the welds from my bends, and look at all the tube i've now whittled away to shorter than i can use. I should have bought two feet of the stuff not one LOL
Ah well, lesson learned. Today I made HUGE advancements as I slowly realized it's more an artform of hold it up and tack it about where it looks good, then continue. Nothing like trying to hold up three 90 degree bends and put two down, grab the welder, make sure you haven't moved the bend you WANT to tack, then tack it. Makes me wish i had four arms sometimes, but I made it through.
The product so far has very well lined up bends and straights. I need more pipe and I can get the 'inner' runners in.
































I have to warn you it does look close to the motor mount bracket, but that's a Mk2 bracket. I tested it on my actual engine and it's got gobs of space.


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## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

*Re: (Geoff Rood)*

Nice progress, glad to see youre still going http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

I've got too much invested to stop LOL


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## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

*Re: (Geoff Rood)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Geoff Rood* »_I've got too much invested to stop LOL 

Yeah, i feel ya there


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## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

*Re: (LO-vw)*

Some good progress in the last few days. First of all I have a timing belt that will work! Imported one from the UK for a 1996 Fiat Brava. 158 teeth (153 was the biggest VAG belt) AND the correct tooth profile YAY! Unfortunately I found out the adjustable timing pulley I purchased was for a Mk4 and has a completely different offset than the 16v and AEB 20v motors. Probably going to get a nice unit from TT.








Other than that, today I did yet another mock up to see how the turbo placement was with my manifold design. Everything's looking great!








And plenty of space for the downpipe
















The main reason for the mock up though was for wastegate placement. It's going to be snug against the block, this picture shows axle clearances with the location I'm going to go with:








I've been planning some other things as well like the feed and returns for coolant and oil for the turbo. I'm looking into machining a freeze plug replacement bung that will supply the turbo with coolant. 1.8t blocks have a boss on the block to do this, ABA's don't have this feature







And lessons learned from Matt (Dbot) I'm going with a stainless 1/2" drain tube off the turbo to avoid problems with melty hoses. It's really going to be tight back there.


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## LO-vw (Sep 24, 2001)

*Re: (Geoff Rood)*

Done lie you bought that gear because its blue


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: (Geoff Rood)*

Any news Geoff?


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## MK2TDI (Feb 11, 2007)

*Re: (dubCanuck1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubCanuck1* »_Any news Geoff?

x2... I'm building a a similar project around a jetta coupe...


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## -skidmarks- (Dec 31, 2006)

*Re: (MK2TDI)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## lorge1989 (Sep 3, 2008)

Necro bump. Wonder what became of this/if we can get all the pics working again. :laugh:


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