# npace "build" thread



## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*My "build" thread*

I've been lurking around here and posting here and there for a while, and finally decided to do a "build" thread since I'm doing a lot to my car and want to contribute, plus I've gotten a few questions about Stage 3 on an A3 with the newer TSI engine and Quattro. I put build in quotes here because right now, this is more of a heavy mod thread than an actual build. I'm not building the engine, replacing pistons and rods, and I did not do the stage 3 install myself. 

This first post will be a little long, to record what's happened with the car to this point. I've got parts and time lined up now, so this thread should start moving quickly in the near future. 
Last January, I was looking at potentially getting either a BMW 3 series or an Audi A4. BMW screwed me around a little, and was priced significantly higher, so I started looking into Audi more. This is the first VAG vehicle I have owned, and I admit I was completely ignorant on what goes into them. I went to the dealer looking at A4s, and the dealer talked me into sitting in an A3, which he claimed had the same engine and drivetrain (2.0L Turbo yes, otherwise, mostly different). I was pleasantly surprised by how the car drove, and it was less expensive than the A4, so in the end I ordered it. It didn't hurt that it was a hatchback, which I prefer anyway. I ended up with a 2012 A3 with DSG and Quattro, pretty much everything else is basic. 

For about 10 months I kept it completely stock, but quickly became interested in modding the car. After some extensive research, I chose APR, this was purely a preference thing, but that was what seemed to work best for me. I wanted to go Stage 3 from the beginning, and worked out a deal with my local APR dealer. He sold me a Stage 1 flash and intake, and did not charge me for another flash when I took it back later to get Stage 3 installed (he didn't have the parts on hand, and I travel frequently for work which made getting the car to and from him a little tricky). 

Here is a pic of the car:









So I ended up getting stage 3, which has its own issues on this car. For starters, APR doesn't (or didn't) make a downpipe for the A3 with Quattro, so they supplied the one just released for the new Golf R. This doesn't exactly fit, and caused some issues when attaching the Milltek exhaust (APR doesn't make that for the A3 with quattro either). Additionally, the oil inlet valve to the turbo has a supplied fitting that needed to be swapped. Luckily I have a friend that works at a machine shop, and he gave me some extra fittings to try, and one sort of worked. 

I say sort of because an oil leak developed that went un-noticed for about 3 weeks. It was a very slow leak (almost vapor) and took time before I noticed any smells, which led to my discovery of the problem. It ended up being a fairly straight-forward fix (new banjo bolt and tighten with a line wrench), but it was a PITA to get to, as I had to remove the MAF and heat sheild to get to / wrench it. 

For now, that's all I've done. I will have a new addition in about a week, and I am doing the rest myself, for better or worse, so I'll be sure to make frequent additions to the thread. 

Here's a pic of the current / stock interior:









And the engine bay with APR Stage 3 installed:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Forgot one thing... I went with the S3 intercooler instead of the APR one. Cooling efficiency on the APR intercooler wasn't that much better for the significant difference in price, IMO. Plus, I plan on eventually adding the Forge twintercooler, which won't work with the APR one without significant changes (cutting).


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

Talk about sleeper status! That might be the first A3 I've seen that's had a turbo upgrade while otherwise stock. Most guys opt for show over go at first, or at least only do a flash before moving on to suspension and wheels. What other upgrades do you have in mind? :thumbup:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

TBomb said:


> Talk about sleeper status! That might be the first A3 I've seen that's had a turbo upgrade while otherwise stock. Most guys opt for show over go at first, or at least only do a flash before moving on to suspension and wheels. What other upgrades do you have in mind? :thumbup:


Yeah, I got the car (and stage 3) in Germany while I was there; I used to live in Europe. Some of the looks I got on the Autobahn were priceless, especially from Mercedes owners for some reason. I went with speed first because I was living in a place where I could really use it to its full potential, and I miss being able to do that. I do eventually plan on suspension and wheels, but I've got a few other things coming soon... don't want to ruin the surprise.


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## JDBVR6 (Dec 29, 2006)

This thread is so full of win!! :thumbup: 

I love sleeper cars.


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## skatevolcom2006 (Apr 18, 2008)

Monza silver :heart:

Stage 3 :heart:

Looks stock :heart:

subscribed...


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## wishntoboutside (Mar 11, 2002)

nice ride. Welcome to the monza silver club. A few of us have good taste in color.

nothing wrong with having a sleeper too.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Thanks for the nice comments. I've got a garage day coming up this week, so I should have some pics and a nice addition to this here thread late this weekend.


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## NBPT_A3 (Jan 1, 2011)

opcorn:opcorn:


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## Maitre Absolut (Aug 5, 2009)

S-line with 4 spoke steering wheel?


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Maitre Absolut said:


> S-line with 4 spoke steering wheel?


That's all straight stock. It's a US - spec car but I bought it in Germany and ordered it the way I wanted. The only options I paid for were performance-oriented; Quattro, DSG, sport suspension, plus the cold weather package because it gets cold in Germany. (No EDC because it doesn't work with coilovers) Otherwise, I got the colors I wanted on a blank canvass for modding


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## empivw (Apr 15, 2003)

Maitre Absolut said:


> S-line with 4 spoke steering wheel?


Yep

my 2011 is a Sline with 4 spoke wheel. In fact my car being a DSG car it did not have paddles so I had to find another wheel and activate the paddles with Vag Com


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*Upcoming mods list*

So this is a list of everything I plan to do over time.... the project should be going for quite a while as I can't afford all of this at once. I already have some of the parts on the list, and others may be nothing more than a pipe dream. I also continually update changes to this on a spreadsheet, because there are a few things that I have changed my mind on since I started this. If anyone has any recommendations or experience with any of this, let me know, input is always welcome (that's why I'm here) :thumbup:



APR Stage 3 Turbo (GT28)
S3 Intercooler	
APR Downpipe	
Milltek Catback Exhaust	
Stoptech Sport Kit	
Haldex Gen 4 Race Controller	
Haldex Gen 4 Remote	
Dogbone Mount	
HPA DSG Stage 3	
OZ Wheels and New tires
Plasti-Dip Front Grill
VWR sport springs	
H&R Sway bars	
Boost Guage	
PCV adaptor for Boost guage
Paddle shift Retrofit w/ steering wheel
DICE iPod integration Kit
Forge BOV
Neuspeed Hi Flo Turbo Discharge conversion
Neuspeed Hi Flo Air Charge Pipe
Integrated Engineering Rods
JE Pistons	
Calico coated bearing set
Whiteline polyurethane control arm bushings (front)	
S3 control arm busing kit (rear)
Front license plate delete	
Forge Twintercooler (combined with S3 intercooler)	
APR Oil Protection System (OPS) 
Ferrea Valvetrain Kit	
ARP Head stud kit


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*Happy 4th of July!*

So I just got back from the garage and installed a new dogbone mount and a Gen 4 Haldex performance controller with remote. Fairly easy and straightforward, particularly with a lift, but I have some pics and suggestions based on things that were not provided with the install instructions.

It also seems like I am talking to myself on this thread, so I guess I'm more here to create a chronological record of the build than to discuss pros and cons of certain parts and ideas. :screwy:

The Haldex upgrade is pretty awesome; in Race mode I can feel the rear end squat down in acceleration as it gains traction, definitely something I've never had before. I would highly recommend it to anyone with quattro. Next post will have pics of the controller mount and some install notes. For now, since I've finished something on the car today, I'm entitled to one of these:
:beer:

As always, I am open to comments and suggestions.


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

I'm enjoying the story and I don't even have a turbo. Happy 4th! :beer:

One suggestion is to check off things on your list so that we can tell where you are in the process.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Awesome!! Keep it up and I like that list. 

Can't wait til I get the Haldex controller... along with many other things.


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## wishntoboutside (Mar 11, 2002)

Damn you .. You got haldex. I am hoping to upgrade my intercooler during the apr sale and that was next on my list. I just added slotted rotors and ebc pads to mix it up a little. The new rear sway bar, nuespeed made a difference on the handling and now I want to upgrade the front. 

I think I want to get a sticker on the car saying I eat R32's for breakfast :laugh:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*Excuse the rambling… but I have pics!*

So I installed the performance haldex system with the competition controller as well as the dogbone insert, and this is how it worked out:

First, the dogbone….
This was a huge PITA, and took longer than the Haldex, which is the opposite of what I thought would happen. For starters, there are plenty of how to's out there, and I used the one from HPA since that's where I got my mount. Removing the stock mount took the longest. According to the instructions, you simply cut the rubber after removing the bolt, and use channel lock pliers to pull on the plastic ring around the mount. 

There is nowhere, and I mean nowhere, to grab the plastic ring with the pliers. I ended up using a sharp flathead screwdriver and a mallet to cut through the plastic ring. Here's what it looked like after removal:










Note the cracked plastic ring… that's what I mean here. Also, note where it was cut. If you do this yourself, realize that the stock mount is garbage when you're done. If you don't want to sacrifice the stock mount, either get an insert or leave it as is. 

Also worth noting is the location. You want to do this with the screwdriver going straight up, and cut through at the point where the plastic is the thinnest, which is directly below the pendulum mount facing the engine. See below:










This should help anyone attempting in the future and save some time figuring it out. When installing the new mount, I used WD-40, despite the fact that the instructions recommend dishwashing liquid as a lubricant. This is important in my opinion, because dishwashing liquid is slightly corrosive, and _could possibly_ degrade the polyurethane over time (any chemical engineers out there?)

I used a mallet to tap in the mount slightly as it appears too large for the hole (it isn't). Once started, I could push it almost all the way in by hand, and then tapped it flush with the mallet. Then it was a matter of re-inserting the factory bolt. Next up… pics and notes on the Haldex controller.


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## Maitre Absolut (Aug 5, 2009)

empivw said:


> Yep
> 
> my 2011 is a Sline with 4 spoke wheel. In fact my car being a DSG car it did not have paddles so I had to find another wheel and activate the paddles with Vag Com


sorry to threadjack but what option gave the 3 spoke steering w/ paddles then?


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*Haldex controller install (with pics)*

I'm not going to go over how to install the whole thing, because it was pretty easy and only took like 20 minutes. I bought the competition controller with remote, and wanted to install without drilling or cutting into the underbody, so that's where I started. 

After removing the cover and spare tire, I removed the foam insert on the left side (when facing the back of the car) Near the back seat, there is a small rubber plug which is easily removed by hand. I ran the wires through here, then lifted the car (I used a lift at a garage). 

I will add that when removing the old controller, the instructions say that a "small amount" of oil will come out when it is removed. They should say "a S&*% ton of oil" will come out. Have the new controller assembled and ready first. A friend with fast hands standing nearby is helpful. 

Once that was installed, I lowered the car and set up the remote receiver. I cut a small slit in the aforementioned small rubber plug to accommodate the wire. Then I re-inserted the plug, and sealed either side of the wire with loctite rubber, plastic, and fabric flexible adhesive (this is what I had on hand, silicone will work too).

Here's a pic of the wire coming into the car:










I then stuck the receiver to the inside rear of the car, centered, like so:










And here's a pic with the spare back in place:










That's it for now… but I've got some more parts on the list that are on the way. :wave:


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## 2.0T Dan (Aug 14, 2012)

wishntoboutside said:


> nice ride. Welcome to the monza silver club. A few of us have good taste in color.
> 
> nothing wrong with having a sleeper too.


Amen haha, quick question though why do you want a BOV on your 2.0T? I heard it could make your car run too rich when your boost pressure vents to atmosphere which isn't good for the engine. From what I read it's better to keep your DV. I could understand if you want that chirp, but an intake and turbo back exhaust makes your DV pretty loud and produce similar noises. Just curious, sweet car though :thumbup:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

2.0T Dan said:


> Amen haha, quick question though why do you want a BOV on your 2.0T? I heard it could make your car run too rich when your boost pressure vents to atmosphere which isn't good for the engine. From what I read it's better to keep your DV. I could understand if you want that chirp, but an intake and turbo back exhaust makes your DV pretty loud and produce similar noises. Just curious, sweet car though :thumbup:


It's funny you should ask that... the BOV is probably coming off of the list. I was just looking into the loud whistle / screech I get between 4-5 k RPM, and most people attribute it to a faulty DV caused with the addition of a larger turbo and intake. Some models produced before summer of 2012 have a revision C valve. I haven't confirmed whether this is the case on my car or not. The APR Stage 3 kit for the TSI engine does re-use the stock DV, so if that's the case, and I have a rev c, I'm just going to spend the $60 for a rev d and call it good.


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## NBPT_A3 (Jan 1, 2011)

npace said:


> It's funny you should ask that... the BOV is probably coming off of the list. I was just looking into the loud whistle / screech I get between 4-5 k RPM, and most people attribute it to a faulty DV caused with the addition of a larger turbo and intake. Some models produced before summer of 2012 have a revision C valve. I haven't confirmed whether this is the case on my car or not. The APR Stage 3 kit for the TSI engine does re-use the stock DV, so if that's the case, and I have a rev c, I'm just going to spend the $60 for a rev d and call it good.


Get a rev d and grab a forge atmospheric spacer. I have one on my car and it sounds pretty awesome and still gets you the head turns you want without the aforementioned lean/rich issues that our cars often run into. It's worth a look


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

NBPT_A3 said:


> Get a rev d and grab a forge atmospheric spacer. I have one on my car and it sounds pretty awesome and still gets you the head turns you want without the aforementioned lean/rich issues that our cars often run into. It's worth a look


I thought about it, but I'm not sure I can add on the spacer with the APR billet CNC adapter. I'm thinking space - there probably isn't enough, and if there is, I would have to get some ridiculously long bolts to hold everything together... but now you have me thinking. Has anyone else done this? That is, APR stage 3, CNC adapter, with forge atmospheric spacer and a stock diverter valve on top? Sounds like a lot.... curious if there have been any experiments on it out there.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Maitre Absolut said:


> sorry to threadjack but what option gave the 3 spoke steering w/ paddles then?


Canadian option?  Honestly I have no clue. I actually prefer the 4 spoke look.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> I thought about it, but I'm not sure I can add on the spacer with the APR billet CNC adapter. I'm thinking space - there probably isn't enough, and if there is, I would have to get some ridiculously long bolts to hold everything together... but now you have me thinking. Has anyone else done this? That is, APR stage 3, CNC adapter, with forge atmospheric spacer and a stock diverter valve on top? Sounds like a lot.... curious if there have been any experiments on it out there.


No, but you can probably run a different valve like the borg warner diaphragm valve.

Dave


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

crew219 said:


> No, but you can probably run a different valve like the borg warner diaphragm valve.
> 
> Dave


Thanks... really thinking about just getting the stock rev d valve.... that is if I'm running a rev c.... still haven't checked. Otherwise, is this what you're talking about?




JRutter said:


> I'm enjoying the story and I don't even have a turbo. Happy 4th!
> 
> One suggestion is to check off things on your list so that we can tell where you are in the process.


I updated my signature to include what's actually on the car... so that's where I'm at. I'll just continue to alter the signature block until I finish, or I die, or the car blows up (the last two seem more likely... I'll probably never be done) :laugh:


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> Thanks... really thinking about just getting the stock rev d valve.... that is if I'm running a rev c.... still haven't checked. Otherwise, is this what you're talking about?


http://www.awe-tuning.com/awe-tuning-2-0t-diverter-valve

It's a borg warner valve with a resistor on a factory plug to trick the electrical connection. 

I have one for sale too with very low miles...

Dave


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

crew219 said:


> http://www.awe-tuning.com/awe-tuning-2-0t-diverter-valve
> 
> It's a borg warner valve with a resistor on a factory plug to trick the electrical connection.
> 
> ...


Just realized that's what you were talking about. PM sent.


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## FreeGolf (Sep 18, 2003)

i too am looking for a project and decided to revisit an A3. basically from my research i found that there isn't any off the shelf plug and play stageIII "kit" for the Quattro A3. is this true or am i not looking in the right places? spoke with awe tuning and they do not offer anything and do not plan to and almost nobody has a full exhaust for it (i think only milltek does at this point).


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## SoSoA3 (Sep 10, 2012)

Looking good man it must be a blast to drive!


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

FreeGolf said:


> i too am looking for a project and decided to revisit an A3. basically from my research i found that there isn't any off the shelf plug and play stageIII "kit" for the Quattro A3. is this true or am i not looking in the right places? spoke with awe tuning and they do not offer anything and do not plan to and almost nobody has a full exhaust for it (i think only milltek does at this point).


You can get a full exhaust from all the big companies if you have a FWD, and IIRC, Billyboat makes one for FWD and quattro. APR also offers a downpipe that fits the quattro, you just have to find a catback if you want full exhaust. It's really just getting the pieces you want, which in my opinion is a little more fun. APR obviously offers a garret turbo kit, and plenty of companies offer kits with the K04, including HPA, APR, USP, and I think AWE. If you send me a PM I'll give you more ideas, also you might want to talk with crew (posted in this thread), he's been doing this for a while with A3s. 

Nick


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

SoSoA3 said:


> Looking good man it must be a blast to drive!


Thanks! So far I'm having a good time with it.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*It's suspension time.... unofficial survey*

Okay, so I've got my suspension narrowed down to a few choices, although Dave will probably throw something in here that will completely change everything and make me do more research.  I currently plan on getting H&R swaybars. For now, I am keeping the stock shocks/struts and plan on changing only the springs and necessary hardware plus a few small bits and goodies from the TT to stiffen things up a little. 
So which springs should I get?
My current choices are:
VWR - linear spring rate, a little less comfortable but more predictable
H&R - lower than VWR, progressive rate, slightly less predictable
Eibach - progressive, similar to H&R, rumored to be more comfortable (not sure if anyone can confirm)
DG - Also linear, made by eibach, my assumption is the DG springs for the Golf R will fit.... confirmation anyone?

A little background.....
1. The car will have occasional track use (2-3 times a year) and more DD, so comfort is important
2. I like taking corners fast
3. I'm not going to "bag my ride" or whatever it's called... not that I fault anyone who does so, just not my thing
4. I'm not interested in coilovers unless someone can give me a truly compelling reason why I should get them.... I really don't care about adjusting the ride height
5. I will probably upgrade the suspension again later (shocks and struts) 

That's it, thanks in advance for the input :thumbup:


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## FreeGolf (Sep 18, 2003)

npace said:


> Nick


thanks, i dont want to derail your thread so i will pm you.


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## empivw (Apr 15, 2003)

Maitre Absolut said:


> sorry to threadjack but what option gave the 3 spoke steering w/ paddles then?




Somewhere around 2010. Audi USA did not offer paddles on premium package

Premium package (halagon lights) got 4 spoke wheel no paddles
Premium plus (with xenons) came with three spoke and paddles
Titanium has the interior with three spoke and paddles

I found out that european A3's with 4 spoke wheels got paddles so I found a steering wheel with paddles and installed it with some VAG COM coding to activate paddles and I didn't have to buy a new airbag


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## Evo V (Dec 29, 2010)

empivw said:


> Somewhere around 2010. Audi USA did not offer paddles on premium package
> 
> Premium package (halagon lights) got 4 spoke wheel no paddles
> Premium plus (with xenons) came with three spoke and paddles
> ...


Did you have to change the clockspring also? I also got 4 spoke steering wheel from B7 A4 but my clockspring was missing couple of the pins. I still haven't bought replacement.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Thread officially jacked. Now, back to my suspension question....
opcorn:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Nobody has any opinions on my spring chioces? I'm shocked (sorry for the pun). Anyhow, I'm leaning toward VWR springs, but I am still intrigued by the eibach, h&r, and DG options.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*Dyno results!!!!*

Sorry, but I forgot to post my dyno results from May while I was still in Europe. Its a little hard to read because I had to scan from a printout, but you can see pk HP at just over 275 and torque at just over 520 (Nm, not ft lbs). This is approximately 383 ft lbs of torque. Sorry the quality of the image is so crappy, but at least you get an idea of what stage 3 does. This is only with the APR stage 3 kit, an S3 intercooler, the carbonio intake, and the milltek catback exhaust (downpipe is APR provided with kit) :thumbup:


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## easthk (Oct 10, 2004)

nice to see another build thread :thumbup:

regarding springs, I had similar debate and ended up going all in with KW V3's after running different bilstein and H&R spring (non-adjustable) combinations on previous cars. HPA has great winter sale pricing on KW's.

the V3 adjustability is great for switching between daily driving comfort and tightening up for track days. Daily comfort is right on - they soak up the bumps well and feels more planted without any bounciness. Turn in is way better, stickier tires are a must. I haven't tried too many adjustment combinations, and in hindsight V2's probably would've been sufficient.

Stainless steel was a durability consideration for salty New England winters. I did put in KW 30mm spacers in rear to prevent rubbing based on feedback from other A3/A4 owners. The spacers put the rear at about 25-3/4" to 26" ftg on lowest setting, which results in slightly lower than stock ride height. Still working on dialing in ride height.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

easthk said:


> nice to see another build thread :thumbup:
> 
> regarding springs, I had similar debate and ended up going all in with KW V3's after running different bilstein and H&R spring (non-adjustable) combinations on previous cars. HPA has great winter sale pricing on KW's.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the insight. I really think I'm going to get the VWR springs.... I have no desire to mess with the ride height. A buddy of mine has a GLI with coilovers that's pretty sick, but he seems to constantly be doing things with his suspension, including height adjustment, sealing and covering for winter, etc. Not that I'm opposed to working on my car, as that's what this thread is all about. I guess I'm just not looking to dramatically lower the vehicle or deal with other suspension component issues like control arms, end links, etc. I think I can get the handling I want, with little compromise on comfort, with the VWR springs and a good set of sway bars. 

Anyone else have insight on this? I plan to eventually hook up some Ohlins shocks/struts when I can afford it. Thanks. 


Nick


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## empivw (Apr 15, 2003)

Evo V said:


> Did you have to change the clockspring also? I also got 4 spoke steering wheel from B7 A4 but my clockspring was missing couple of the pins. I still haven't bought replacement.


I didn't have to change anything. Install steering wheel. VAG-COM coding to activate paddles. DONE! Nothing else needed or anything to buy other than wheel


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## NBPT_A3 (Jan 1, 2011)

easthk said:


> Stainless steel was a durability consideration for salty New England winters.


Hey where in MA are you located? We need to get a Boston meet-up going.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*This weekend*

This weekend I'm upgrading the brakes... rotors, lines, pads, fluid, and tyrolsport bushing kit. I'll post pics of the un-boxing and some items I picked up to help with the install tomorrow...


Nick


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*Brake parts*

These are the parts I'm replacing / installing this weekend, plus some other things I'm using, such as brake fluid, brake cleaner, silicone based lubricant, and of course, gloves. 

The list: stoptech/power stop slotted rotors, stoptech braided stainless steel lines, stoptech pads, tyrolsport caliper stiffening kit, ATE super blue fluid. 










I was going to buy the stoptech sport kit, but I found it was less expensive to part out. The sport kit goes from anywhere in the range of $700. By sourcing the parts on my own, I got the rotors, lines, and Edit: pads (not calipers) for a little over $500, which left me with some cash to get the tyrolsport kit, fluids, and other necessary items. 

Not pictured are a power bleeder and piston compression tool, which will be used with other standard tools to get the job done. 

I went with this setup for a few reasons. There is no real reason for me to go BBK, because I won't be tracking the car frequently, and 312mm up front is plenty, IMO. I've had the car on the autobahn cruising at 120mph and having to brake to 30mph very quickly, and the stock brake setup had no problem handling it. I just wanted to add some stiffness, particularly with the lines, and have some fade resistance for the few times I do track the vehicle, hence the slotted rotors. Also, tires will make a pretty significant difference, and I've got a few ideas in my head about what to do with the tire / wheel setup later on. 

I will post pics and notes of the install later this weekend when I finish.


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

npace said:


> I was going to buy the stoptech sport kit, but I found it was less expensive to part out. The sport kit goes from anywhere in the range of $700. By sourcing the parts on my own, I got the rotors, lines, and calipers for a little over $500, which left me with some cash to get the tyrolsport kit, fluids, and other necessary items.


Nice work! Always rewarding to know you got stuff cheaper than what it sells for :beer:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

krazyboi said:


> Nice work! Always rewarding to know you got stuff cheaper than what it sells for :beer:


Yep... I've found amazon to be a surprisingly good source for parts, especially if you have prime and get free shipping. Cheers! :beer:


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> Yep... I've found amazon to be a surprisingly good source for parts, especially if you have prime and get free shipping. Cheers! :beer:


And "no tax" 

Too bad I live in CA :thumbdown:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*Partial Install*

So, I got some of the brake parts completed today. Rotors, pads, and the tyrolsport kit are on the car, and the pads are bedded. As for feel... honestly it feels about the same. I expect that when I swap out for stainless lines and flush for new fluid, things will change. 

A couple of good ideas I got for "how to" on this....






And...






I know, it's a toyota, but the idea of drilling the hole into the soda bottle and bleeding for compression was great, and prevented a lot of grief with the master cylinder and possible air introduction. Anyhow, I'll let you all know as I get the lines and fluid replaced. 

Nick


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*Brakes still on pause...*

So I'll probably get to getting the brake lines and fluid next weekend, had to spend some time with the Mrs. today. In looking ahead, does anyone have any experience with this......



















Everything the internet says seems to point toward this being a pretty good long term investment. It's heavy, and not an underdrive pulley that creates all of the problems associated with products like the neuspeed one. just curious, let me know if anyone has any thoughts or ideas on this (engineers out there?)


Nick


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

Unnecessary for DSG


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

crew219 said:


> Unnecessary for DSG


Thanks.... that little piece is quite expensive. May I ask why / what makes it unnecessary?


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

The new brake lines and bleed is happening this weekend or bust. I'm still a little disappointed in the tyrolsport kit, as I thought I would definitely feel a difference even without the steel lines, but I cant tell the difference. :what:

On another note, I've got some more bits and goodies on the way, so this thread seems to be coming along nice, albeit slower than I had hoped. The car may not keep the stock sleeper look for too much longer, as there are a few cosmetic issues I'm looking to address. 

Nick


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*crap*

So, I appears two things are happening here. 
1. I am talking to myself again
2. As far as the aftermarket parts world is concerned, there is only one brake design for the rear brakes on the A3.... in reality there are two. There is a TRW setup, which is what is generally more common and available everywhere, and there is a bosch setup. If you have the TRW setup, you can order brake parts pretty much anywhere and they will fit. If you have the bosch setup, you have to specifically find what you are looking for. With that in mind, guess which setup I have :banghead:

When I did the pads and rotors last weekend, I thought it was odd that the rear pads didn't fit right. After some research, I realized there is a reason why, and oh, by the way, the bosch calipers need a brake line with a banjo fitting, not a flare fitting which is what stoptech sells. 

So... I already ordered new rear lines, and have some other goodies on the way. This thread has been stalled for a short period, but not stopped. This weekend I will likely change a few minor cosmetic things, and the car will be slightly less of a sleeper. 

And while I'm on that topic, I'm looking for some wheels. I really like the look of the stock 17" sline wheels, but I want something wider (like 8.5 or 9) with a lower offset to accomodate some wider tires. Anyone have any recommendations? 

Okay, that was a long post.... thanks for reading!


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

I don't see why you wouldn't want to get that crank pulley, I know it is on my list at some point in time. :thumbup: Nice choice!

Edit didn't fully read. 

It is expensive, and worth it from what I understand. Someone here has it, can't remember who though.


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## DavidA3 (Jun 25, 2011)

Back to your suspension components question...

I recently installed the following and couldn't be happier with the set up. Drives better in every way compared to stock, and its not harsh at all. Installing the rear sway only really helped make the car more neutral.

VWR Springs
Koni FSD shocks/struts
Whiteline rear sway


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Ponto said:


> I don't see why you wouldn't want to get that crank pulley, I know it is on my list at some point in time. :thumbup: Nice choice!
> 
> Edit didn't fully read.
> 
> It is expensive, and worth it from what I understand. Someone here has it, can't remember who though.


I was curious about it, but crew mentioned that it isn't worth getting with a DSG, and I was curious why he says that. Crew?



DavidA3 said:


> DavidA3
> 
> Back to your suspension components question...
> 
> ...


I thought about that setup... I have the VWR springs on order (surprise ruined!) but don't have the $$ for shocks/struts atm. I got a few other things going on with the suspension, just little parts. The koni FSDs were one of the things I was considering, as well as ohlins. I'm really leaning toward the H&R swaybars though. How is the ride height? I want to be just noticeably lower, but not too low.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> I was curious about it, but crew mentioned that it isn't worth getting with a DSG, and I was curious why he says that. Crew?


Most people install them when they add single mass flywheels and lose the dampening characteristics of the dual mass flywheel. DSG has a dualmass flywheel and a factory dampener to match. 

Dave


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

As far as the crank pulley goes though you want to have dampening on it. Otherwise you have harmful vibrations going through the pulley directly to the crank. 

Bah I wish I could remember who did the full review - did lightened pulleys first, then the Fluidampr pulley have on a 3.2

Unless I am not following of course... seeing as the flywheel and all that is on the otherside of the engine? lol Correct me if I am wrong people.


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

Ponto said:


> As far as the crank pulley goes though you want to have dampening on it. Otherwise you have harmful vibrations going through the pulley directly to the crank.
> *
> Bah I wish I could remember who did the full review - did lightened pulleys first, then the Fluidampr pulley have on a 3.2*
> 
> Unless I am not following of course... seeing as the flywheel and all that is on the otherside of the engine? lol Correct me if I am wrong people.


Jrutter?

edit: http://forums.fourtitude.com/showth...-to-guinea-pig-the-new-VR6-Fluidamper-for-you


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Ponto said:


> As far as the crank pulley goes though you want to have dampening on it. Otherwise you have harmful vibrations going through the pulley directly to the crank.


From what I can tell, that seems correct. I think the big difference between the fluidampr and stock isn't so much the weight, as both are heavy, but the fluidampr is full of silicone fluid which makes it last longer. This might be something that you wait to replace when the stock one gets old... I'm not really sure


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

npace said:


> So I'll probably get to getting the brake lines and fluid next weekend, had to spend some time with the Mrs. today. In looking ahead, does anyone have any experience with this......
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I found it to be worthwhile when running stiffer engine mounts and trans torque mount. I had to replace a DSG flywheel last year. Don't want to do that again anytime soon.

I think that you are on the right track with the VWR springs. Good luck!


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> From what I can tell, that seems correct. I think the big difference between the fluidampr and stock isn't so much the weight, as both are heavy, but the fluidampr is full of silicone fluid which makes it last longer. This might be something that you wait to replace when the stock one gets old... I'm not really sure


VR6s can't be compared to your 2.0t. 

VR6s do not come with balance shafts and the 2.0t does. There's a bit of an improvement in smoothness when running a single mass flywheel with the fluidampr, but on a stock flywheel, the gains aren't there to justify the cost. 

The Fluidampr is significantly heavier than stock. IIRC mine was 3lbs heavier. 

The stock dampener is tuned for a narrow range whereas the fluidampr has an effect on a greater range. 

Dave


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*Steering wheel question*

I have searched, and can't find a definitive answer. Anyone know if a standard 4-spoke airbag will fit this:










????

Mostly looking to add paddle shifters, but the MF buttons are a nice touch. IIRC, should just be putting it on and then coding with vag-com, no?

Thanks


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## Mici (Aug 22, 2012)

3-spoke and 4-spoke airbags are different. Went through a lot when I was trying to find one for my 3-spoke steering wheel.

:edit: I also think there are one and dual stage airbags for steering wheel. Mine was dual stage, I'm thinking the difference comes from being 3-door or SB model, not completely sure tho. The most obvious difference is the slots in the airbag cover for steering wheel. 8P0880201 BJ 6PS is the part number on what I had on my car, its -05 SB and had dual stage bag with 3-spoke DSG flappy steering wheel. Could / should fit on yours too, I think. I thought the newer A3's with that round shape airbag..? :edit:

-Mici-


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Mici said:


> 3-spoke and 4-spoke airbags are different. Went through a lot when I was trying to find one for my 3-spoke steering wheel.
> 
> :edit: I also think there are one and dual stage airbags for steering wheel. Mine was dual stage, I'm thinking the difference comes from being 3-door or SB model, not completely sure tho. The most obvious difference is the slots in the airbag cover for steering wheel. 8P0880201 BJ 6PS is the part number on what I had on my car, its -05 SB and had dual stage bag with 3-spoke DSG flappy steering wheel. Could / should fit on yours too, I think. I thought the newer A3's with that round shape airbag..? :edit:
> 
> -Mici-


Thanks, but no, I have the odd oval type airbag with straight lines like in the pic... in fact, the pic of my car's interior is on the first page of the thread. Where in Finalnd are you? I used to be in the Netherlands.


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## Mici (Aug 22, 2012)

Oh, I thought all newer A3's, A4's and TT's shared that round airbag steering wheel. Anyway, your airbag won't fit, but search airbags through ebay.de and ebay.co.uk. Seems like the UK has more airbags for sale, reason forthat is German laws which "require" them to destroy old airbags when taking cars apart. That's what I've been told. I got my steering wheel airbag from UK, the price was around 220-250£ shipped to Finland if I remember correct.

I live in southern Finland, kind of between Helsinki and Turku, little city called Salo. Mainly known from Nokia around the world, there was a biggish phone factory here, but they mostly closed about year ago or so.

-Mici-


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*When it rains...*

It pours.... 

VWR Springs:


















Audi TT rear spring pads:









SS Brake lines:









Borg Warner DV and 42DD Boost tap:


















Now Mrs. npace needs to give me time to put this stuff on


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*Progress*

I got a lot done today... VWR springs and ss brake lines on all 4 corners. In an earlier post, I talked about being disappointed in the lack of change in pedal feel with the tyrolsport kit and new pads and rotors. Well, I can say with the ss lines and new fluid, the pedal feel is better. It's nice and firm, but not unpredictable. 

As far as the springs go, the fronts took quite a while to put on, especially since I didn't have a spreader tool :facepalm:, but it came out okay and it looks good. I've got about an inch and a half of lowering. With the stock shocks / struts, the ride quality is almost identical, but I can take turns faster 
While I was at it, I put on the TT rear spring pads, and I'm glad I did. If not, I would probably have some weird reverse rake thing going on. 

I'll post up pics tomorrow, but that's it for now. I'll let everyone know as I make more progress. 

Nick


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*Update*

So, I should've posted these last week, but I've had a lot of non-car related stuff going on. 

VWR springs are awesome. The look is good... subtle lowering without being extreme, and cornering is a little more predictable. I think I really need a rear sway bar and some wider tires to get handling where I want it, but it's nice. 

Difference between stock front and VWR front spring: 










Rear: 










Also, I had read where some people were getting a weird reverse rake thing going on with these springs since they are designed for the golf R, so I added the audi TT rear spring pads, which are a little over 1/4 inch thicker than stock. TT pads are on the right: 










I'm glad I did this because as you can see, the car is pretty level now (and low): 










I'm not detailing how I did the springs, but if you need that, I used this writeup on Vortex: 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-Thread!!!&p=77209201&viewfull=1#post77209201 
The how to is about halfway down the page. 

Also, I did the ss brake lines. Pretty easy and straightforward, however, I will say with the stoptech ss lines and banjo bolt, you should be careful: 










I followed the instructions exactly as you see here, and before I reached 14-lb-ft.... snap! :banghead: Luckily, the OEM one fit, and actually I think the OEM one is a little better, and went with that on both sides. The OEM bolt is tapered, and only requires a crush washer on the bottom side. Otherwise, it went nice and smooth. Pedal is firmer, but I would like to reduce travel, which I think is set with the stock calipers based on fluid displacement (Jrutter schooled me on that)  
Flushing fluid was nice and easy with a motive power bleeder, although I'm considering getting speed bleeders with a check valve so I can do it old-fashioned. 

Anyway, that's it for now, I'll add updates as I do them to the car.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

So... I'm toying with the idea of getting a turbo outlet pipe and throttle pipe to replace the kinked factory hoses. Has anyone in here done this? If so, what are your opinions? Is it worth it, or a waste of time? Dave, I'm looking your way, as you usually have good input on these sorts of things. 

Thanks in advance everyone, and don't make me start a new thread to get some responses. 


Nick


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

npace said:


> So... I'm toying with the idea of getting a turbo outlet pipe and throttle pipe to replace the kinked factory hoses. Has anyone in here done this? If so, what are your opinions? Is it worth it, or a waste of time? Dave, I'm looking your way, as you usually have good input on these sorts of things.
> 
> Thanks in advance everyone, and don't make me start a new thread to get some responses.
> 
> ...


 You mean Turbo inlet pipe? or outlet pipe as in new downpipe? 

I am not sure what the 2.0T inlet pipes are like, but i know the 1.8T sucked. Definitely a worth while upgrade. 

Downpipe - same thing for sure! 

I noticed a good change on my 1.8t with both. :thumbup:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Sorry, when I say outlet pipe, I mean the air return to the IC. So there are two, one from the IC to the throttle body, and one from the turbo to the IC. Already have the DP from the Stage 3 kit. Thanks for the response.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> So... I'm toying with the idea of getting a turbo outlet pipe and throttle pipe to replace the kinked factory hoses. Has anyone in here done this? If so, what are your opinions? Is it worth it, or a waste of time? Dave, I'm looking your way, as you usually have good input on these sorts of things.
> 
> Thanks in advance everyone, and don't make me start a new thread to get some responses.
> 
> ...


 No benefit. The throttle pipe can cause clearance issues with intercoolers too. Didn't your Stage III come with the APR turbo outlet anyways? 

Dave


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

I can still see the "smashed" plastic return next to the pulleys. The theory sounds good; more airflow=more power. Why is it that you say there's no benefit? Curious about this one.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> I can still see the "smashed" plastic return next to the pulleys. The theory sounds good; more airflow=more power. Why is it that you say there's no benefit? Curious about this one.


 Hmmm I guess APR doesn't do the cast outlet pipe for the TSI. 

Expanding the pipe at that point might simply be a tradeoff in velocity. Keep in mind that pretty much every company out there is selling a $40 made in china pipe and throwing their logo on it so they can charge three times the amount. 

Dave


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

crew219 said:


> Hmmm I guess APR doesn't do the cast outlet pipe for the TSI.
> 
> Expanding the pipe at that point might simply be a tradeoff in velocity. Keep in mind that pretty much every company out there is selling a $40 made in china pipe and throwing their logo on it so they can charge three times the amount.
> 
> Dave


 So if I read this right, what you're saying is that the airflow through the outlet pipe might be slower because of the expanded size, and on the inlet side there is no benefit because of potential interference with the IC. I was also wondering about the TB. It seems like any improvement in airflow would still be dependent on the limitations of the TB.


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## easthk (Oct 10, 2004)

I couldn't find any data showing measurable benefits for the larger IC return pipes. Some of Golf R guys are running them- you might find feedback in that forum. Seems consensus is no perceived difference from stock pipe.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Good to know that I can save my $$ for something else.  

On another note, I've noticed something that sounds like squeaking coming from the pass side. I can only hear it when coasting (like through a parking lot) and only when I apply light pressure to the gas pedal. Just to be clear, the sound is not present initially when rolling slowly, then I apply pressure and hear the sound almost instantaneously with that. This doesn't happen from a stop, or at higher speeds, but I can definitely hear it in this instance. 

I plan on checking the CV boots and joints in a couple of days when I can get it on a lift, but I'm wondering what else I should look at (or is this kind of normal)? I had the issue initially when I bought the car brand new (only 3 miles on it) but it went away after a while and I kind of forgot about it. If anyone has any advice on this one I would appreciate it.


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## mfractal (May 16, 2005)

Just read through the whole thread, impressive work buddy! Subscribed! 

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

So nobody has any idea about the squeaking? I wonder if this is an isolated thing? I'm thinking its just a chassis lube kinda deal... I know that the stock rubber bushings typically need lube every now and again, despite what the owners manual says. Car only has a little over 13,000 miles on it, though. :screwy:

Edit: Could also be the brakes. I put silicone lubricant on the backs of the pads when I replaced them, but after more investigation it seems possible that the lube could have worn off, and there is rubbing with the new pads. Seems more likely now that I think about having had this problem initially when the car was new. I still plan on checking everything underneath. I'll report back when I have an answer. 

Okay, done talking to myself for now. :sly:

Nick


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## easthk (Oct 10, 2004)

Try greasing the control arm bushings. Using a needle to inject grease into tight crevices works good. Pretty sure autozone sells needles that adapt to a grease gun.

I've had good luck with Permatex brake lube- green synthetic stuff- to keep brake squeal down for street pads. With the endless MX72 pads I get occasional squeals at low speeds. 

One mod suggestion you might like that's not too crazy expensive is Pedal Box (paid $284 shipped). I've been running it for about 2 months now and totally love my car again. Gets rid of gas pedal slop and is super adjustable, allowing you to dial in pedal sensitivity for drive-by-wire cars. It works great for better control around town, highway rips, and really helps on track allowing more precise throttle modulation. It's a night and day difference from stock and makes the car more fun. Especially good with DSG where pedal slack is more evident compared to a manual (even better with HPA v2 software).


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

easthk said:


> Try greasing the control arm bushings. Using a needle to inject grease into tight crevices works good. Pretty sure autozone sells needles that adapt to a grease gun.
> 
> I've had good luck with Permatex brake lube- green synthetic stuff- to keep brake squeal down for street pads. With the endless MX72 pads I get occasional squeals at low speeds.
> 
> One mod suggestion you might like that's not too crazy expensive is Pedal Box (paid $284 shipped). I've been running it for about 2 months now and totally love my car again. Gets rid of gas pedal slop and is super adjustable, allowing you to dial in pedal sensitivity for drive-by-wire cars. It works great for better control around town, highway rips, and really helps on track allowing more precise throttle modulation. It's a night and day difference from stock and makes the car more fun. Especially good with DSG where pedal slack is more evident compared to a manual (even better with HPA v2 software).


Thanks for the suggestions. I really don't have an issue with the gas pedal (maybe I just don't know what I'm missing). My issue is the travel in the brake pedal. The pedal itself is firmer with the tyrolsport kit and ss lines, but there is the same amount of travel there. I guess I'm going to have to look into some different calipers. I'm probably gonna replace the control arm bushings in the near future anyway. Now I just have to find someone with a press


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## easthk (Oct 10, 2004)

I hear you on brake pedal feel. A four-piston caliper helps for sure. 

The Porsche boxster brembo calipers are a lightweight, 4pot upgrade that's cheaper than stoptechs and brembo GTs, although those BBKs are nice for sure. Plus you can use your stock rotors which saves cash on replacement. I got a used setup for 600- adding fresh hardware, brackets and pads comes in about 2/3 the cost of the stoptechs. Plenty of stopping power, pedal feel is firmer than stock and easy to modulate. There's some slack in the pedal at the top, but its firmer once it grabs so you never have to really stand on it to get hard braking. Quality pads and fluid help too.
http://www.apikol.com/index.php/products/braking/brake-components/porsche-boxster-caliper-set.html

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...oxter-brake-upgrade-parts-list-amp-future-DIY

There might be some master cylinder stiffening kits coming out that should help with pedal feel:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...Modifications-for-Hardcore-Enthusiasts/page22


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

The stiffening kit is definitely something I'd be interested in. I am looking at the boxster brake upgrade, but right now I don't have the (roughly) $700 to do it. I did have a couple of questions on that, since you have those calipers and it was a little vague in the thread. My understanding is that these will accept the sock brake lines, but require a different size banjo bolt (and I'm assuming some new crush washers), is that correct? Also, will these fit under the stock 17" wheels? I've heard different answers, but I actually really like the looks of my stockers, and see no reason to upgrade the wheels in the immediate future. The main thing is, since I'm on a budget, I can really only afford one upgrade at a time, so if the boxster calipers require diff wheels, I'll have to do some planning, because that also means tires. 

Okay, long post and lost of questions, but thanks in advance for the help. 

Nick


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## easthk (Oct 10, 2004)

Would recommend calling Apikol on the brake line fitment- they're the experts on this swap. I see the stock banjo fitting is square vs. round on boxster- not sure if square fitting will sit flush on the boxster caliper. Also not sure if stock banjo bolt size and thread pitch fits boxster. I bought lines specific for boxster caliper to be on the safe side, and new Porsche banjo bolts and crush washers to be sure it was an exact fit. 

Regarding 17" wheel fit, it totally depends on the individual wheel, so you'll have to measure. 17s are wide enough, but spoke clearance is the main issue. I measured a bunch, even found a boxster near my work and measured it up, but was still off by about 0.5mm on the spokes so ended up getting 3mm spacers- this was with 18x8 et 45 wheel. I also use 17x7 et 38 winter wheels and working on getting 17x8 in future for track. Here's some pics from install for rough estimates:

rotor to edge of caliper: 








approximate radius


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Thanks for the answers... and the pics were definitely going a step farther than expected. :thumbup:

According to Apikol, the stock lines will fit but require different bolts, which of course they carry. The bolts come with the crush washers. It looks like there needs to be roughly 2.5 inches from the rotor to the spokes for the calipers to clear. I'll do up some measurements in the near future. This is probably something I won't do until later in the winter... the season is coming to a close too fast (it always does). Really, there are a few things I want to tighten up on, and aside from a possible IC upgrade and w/m kit, this is the most expensive. 

Nick


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*strut mounts*

Is anyone running the 034 motorsport track density strut mounts? How about the TT mounts? I have eliminated brake pads and the axle as the source of the squeak I'm getting, and I'm starting to think that the source may be in the suspension mounts after all. I'm curious if anyone has had experience with either of these... good, bad, or otherwise. If any of you have info on this, I would appreciate it. 

Nick


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*talking to myself...*

Still talking to myself here, :what: but the squeak, although seemingly minor and innocent, is annoying the p*** out of me. 

Off the top of my head, I would think it could be the downpipe rubbing against the driveshaft (worst case), an axle, the steering rack, subframe mount(s), wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rod ends, front sway bar bushings, control arm bushings, or exhaust hangers. I know for sure that the sound is behind the engine and below the strut mounts / bearings, as I was able to isolate it better today. It's definitely under the car. It's a long list, probably not exhaustive, but should only take a few minutes to check on each one.

It could also maybe be the heat shield between the turbo and the MAF housing, although that seems less likely based on where the sound seems to be coming from. I'm taking it over to the lift on Saturday and going through all of this stuff, piece by piece. The good thing is that I was able to replicate the sound by rocking the vehicle, so I can check, tighten, and / or lube a part, then rock and check for sound and continue, and I will know exactly what the source is when / if I fix it. 

If anyone has any other ideas between now and Saturday, I'm all ears because I want to get this solved and be on my merry way. Okay, long post but I will definitely add an update and some pics if / when I find the issue because hopefully nobody will have to go through this again.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

You just talk to much that's all haha jk jk


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Ponto said:


> You just talk to much that's all haha jk jk


I know... that's what I get for trying to document everything.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

npace said:


> I know... that's what I get for trying to document everything.


Nah man it is good!! Nothing wrong with an extremely detailed thread! Will be helpful to others in the future I am sure. :thumbup:


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## easthk (Oct 10, 2004)

Grease one thing at time until you find it. I'd start with the easy to reach rubber bits- control arm bushings typically need lube, sway bar bushings, any new rubber bits recently put on. Use a needle to get in the crevices between metal/rubber.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*One suspect eliminated*

I was able to eliminate one of the possible causes of the noise today... the transmission cable. Read on the MkV forum where some guys were having issues with squeaking caused by the heat shield that the cable sits on running into the firewall. Checked it out... even bent it back a little to ensure clearance. Not the issue. I can see it move when I rock the vehicle, and the noise is not coming from there. Will get under it Saturday and check the other spots... just thought this would be easy to knock out. 

Also, should have gotten a package from UPS today but it didn't come 

This was something I was definitely looking forward to, and I am irritated at UPS... tracking number is still showing on-time delivery, even though that is not the case. :facepalm:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*And the winner is...*

It was actually a two-way tie between the passenger side rear lower control arm mount and the passenger side rear end-link :facepalm:

When I got the car on the lift, I started rocking it to replicate the sound and it sounded like it was coming from the back of the car.... which it was. This was the end link. So after lubing that up, I went ahead and put lube on everything else on the rear portion of the chassis.... end links, rubber exhaust mounts, control arms... everything. Rocked the car again and nothing... car was absolutely silent.  I was quite happy with myself until I took the car off of the lift and started driving, and sure enough, squeak squeak.  

So I drove around for a couple of minutes and it didn't subside. Went back to the shop and told them I needed to rent more time.  They gave me an odd look, but let me on the same lift and I went at it on the front. I could no longer replicate the sound at this point, so I lifted the front end off it's wheels and started pulling on things to find the sound. Passenger side lower control arm.... Bingo! I had found another squeak. I once again lubed everything, this time on the front end of the chassis, just to make sure. 

Again, I took the car down, and drove off. This time, I heard a squeak that was much more faint. :banghead: Irritated, but undeterred, I drove slowly around the parking lot and then around the block. I heard two more small squeaks, and then they were gone. Some of the grease probably had to work its way into wherever, because now the only sound I have is the motor, which I love 

Happy, I drove home without any more incidents, including on my street which is a bit bumpy. I almost expected a squeak on my street, but it was just the purr of the engine and the light whirr of the turbo. I will likely still invest in the track density mounts for the front struts, (unless Dave has a compelling reason not to), but for now, I am a very happy camper.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Wooo! way to go man haha what an undertaking for a squeak. But I can appreciate it for sure. I hate squeaks!


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Yep. They're almost as bad as cupholders.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*Oil cooler?*

Okay, so here's a dumb question.... I've searched everywhere but can't find out if there is a specific sandwich plate that is a direct fit under the oil filter on the TSI engine. Does anyone know of one?  I have been toying with the idea of adding an oil cooler and it seems fairly simple: sandwich plate, thermostat, lines, and cooler, followed by roughly another half to full quart of oil in the system. 

Thoughts on this? Also, I've said it before and I'm sure I'll say it again... don't make me start a new thread. 

Nick


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> Okay, so here's a dumb question.... I've searched everywhere but can't find out if there is a specific sandwich plate that is a direct fit under the oil filter on the TSI engine. Does anyone know of one? I have been toying with the idea of adding an oil cooler and it seems fairly simple: sandwich plate, thermostat, lines, and cooler, followed by roughly another half to full quart of oil in the system.
> 
> Thoughts on this? Also, I've said it before and I'm sure I'll say it again... don't make me start a new thread.
> 
> Nick


get this instead 

http://www.goapr.com/products/oil_protection_system_20tsi.html


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## mfractal (May 16, 2005)

Which model were you thinking of getting? 

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 4


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

crew219 said:


> get this instead
> 
> http://www.goapr.com/products/oil_protection_system_20tsi.html


I'm not really sure how that helps me.  I want an inexpensive way to keep down oil, and therefore, engine temps. I'm not going to slalom pike's peak to Denver (okay, maybe I will, but not yet). Also, I can do a decent oil cooler setup for less than half the cost of that thing. 



mfractala3 said:


> Which model were you thinking of getting?


Mocal 13 row. Nothing huge, just enough to lower temps without the headache of W/m injection.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*It's on....*

It's on.....















Like Donkey Kong!











Got this (finally). Ordered from HPA back in May. Just got it in the mail last week, and had to contact them to get the link and instructions (no CD with the tool), but now everything is good. Haven't done a launch with it yet, or even played with it. I'll report back when I have a good impression of what the difference is with the DSG software.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*HPA DSG flash... first impressions*

So the DSG tune is pretty awesome.... I know it's expensive but the guys at HPA definitely know what they're doing, at least when it comes to this. 
I have yet to do a pull with launch control, but the shifting is smooth and fast, and noticeably so which is saying a lot for the DSG, which is already a ka tranny. 
What I like most about it, though, more than anything, is the control I have in manual mode. No longer does the computer automatically decide if I've forgotten to shift... I have full control over it. I can't wait to try it out at the track. 
These are my thoughts on the tune so far, and I'm quite satisfied. It compliments the ECU and engine modifications quite nicely, and I can't imagine how I've gone so long without.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*Routine maintenance*

It's routine mainenance week! That means an oil change, an air filter cleaning, and a cabin filter change, as well as a few other odds and ends of things. Also, I broke down and ordered the APR intercooler, so I'm going to be swapping that when it comes in. I plan on scheduling some dyno time; I'm going to do a before and after test with the IC swap to see what the difference is. 

Since I'm on the subject of cooling, does anyone have any experience with the redline water wetter coolant additive? I'm thinking this could be a good way to increase the performance of my radiator. That and the motul coolant additive seem to be the most popular. Suggestions anyone? Anyone who's been following this thread knows that I'm interested in cooling, and I'm still contemplating adding an oil cooler. I'm still confused  about which sandwich plate to buy, as none of the options appear to be a direct fit, so if anyone has info on that, I would also appreciate it.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

npace said:


> It's routine mainenance week! That means an oil change, an air filter cleaning, and a cabin filter change, as well as a few other odds and ends of things. Also, I broke down and ordered the APR intercooler, so I'm going to be swapping that when it comes in. I plan on scheduling some dyno time; I'm going to do a before and after test with the IC swap to see what the difference is.
> 
> Since I'm on the subject of cooling, does anyone have any experience with the redline water wetter coolant additive? I'm thinking this could be a good way to increase the performance of my radiator. That and the motul coolant additive seem to be the most popular. Suggestions anyone? Anyone who's been following this thread knows that I'm interested in cooling, and I'm still contemplating adding an oil cooler. I'm still confused  about which sandwich plate to buy, as none of the options appear to be a direct fit, so if anyone has info on that, I would also appreciate it.


Nobody's used the coolant additive? C'mon guys, don't make me start another thread just for this. :wave:


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## thenamescolby (Apr 18, 2007)

Ok, I'll play..

What is wrong with your water temps? I'd be surprised if you were pushing beyond the specified range driving in late summer Germany and not frequently tracking... If I were you, I'd focus on oil temps (much more important) than water temps. I doubt water wetter is usable with G12+ anyways. 

Also, did you ever get the three spoke wheel? I've been seriously contemplating getting an S3 steering wheel/paddles which will require a new airbag, so I'll have a full setup available if I do so. If I've got someone in line to pick up my OEM wheel, I could easily be convinced to order the S3 dealio.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

thenamescolby said:


> Ok, I'll play..
> 
> What is wrong with your water temps? I'd be surprised if you were pushing beyond the specified range driving in late summer Germany and not frequently tracking... If I were you, I'd focus on oil temps (much more important) than water temps. I doubt water wetter is usable with G12+ anyways.
> 
> Also, did you ever get the three spoke wheel? I've been seriously contemplating getting an S3 steering wheel/paddles which will require a new airbag, so I'll have a full setup available if I do so. If I've got someone in line to pick up my OEM wheel, I could easily be convinced to order the S3 dealio.


Nothing's wrong with the water temps, I was just looking at this as part of an overall, comprehensive way to reduce temps in general. As far as the oil temps go, I've been thinking that getting a larger oil filter, and thereby increasing oil capacity, would do for now without the need to go to a cooler setup unless (until) I get into a full rebuild and bigger turbo setup. 

As for the steering wheel, no, I never got another one. I could be talked into a full setup with paddles at a good price, as long as I'm sure the wiring would work and all it would require is some VAG-COM coding.


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## thenamescolby (Apr 18, 2007)

Unless you are autocrossing or regularly tracking in really hot weather, I wouldn't worry about cooling system upgrades at this point. If you want to keep tabs on them, look at them through your HVAC diagnostics. If I were you, had a 2.0 car, I'd look to oil cooling first.

If you'd like to shoot me an offer on the steering wheel via PM, I'll consider it.


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## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

There's nothing wrong with doing the cooling upgrades _before_ you have an issue - it's the proper way to build a car. My car has water cooling, oil cooling, and transmission cooling upgrades long before I ever go turbo. If you're sure that your mod path is going BT, then prepare accordingly (to your power output, your climate, your driving style, etc.).




npace said:


> . . . I've been thinking that getting a larger oil filter, and thereby increasing oil capacity, would do for now without the need to go to a cooler setup unless (until) I get into a full rebuild and bigger turbo setup . . .


Increasing the oil capacity will not increase the cooling capacity of the system; it will only take longer to heat up. There would be slightly more heat loss from higher oil-filter surface area, but it will be negligible.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

jbrehm said:


> There's nothing wrong with doing the cooling upgrades _before_ you have an issue - it's the proper way to build a car. My car has water cooling, oil cooling, and transmission cooling upgrades long before I ever go turbo. If you're sure that your mod path is going BT, then prepare accordingly (to your power output, your climate, your driving style, etc.).
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I realize that the oil filter itself won't cool anything, at least not noticeably (like you said). But with the E888 TFSI, what it does do, because of it's location directly above the oil cooler, is cause oil in the stock oil cooler to take just a little more time to pass through, which would increase cooling. Not a great deal, but I believe in the "every little bit helps" strategy. 
Really, I think that the oil cooler setup is the way to go. What I need to find now are a set of fog light grilles that are open to fit the stock bumper cover.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> I realize that the oil filter itself won't cool anything, at least not noticeably (like you said). But with the E888 TFSI, what it does do, because of it's location directly above the oil cooler, is cause oil in the stock oil cooler to take just a little more time to pass through, which would increase cooling. Not a great deal, but I believe in the "every little bit helps" strategy.
> Really, I think that the oil cooler setup is the way to go. What I need to find now are a set of fog light grilles that are open to fit the stock bumper cover.


Like I said before, I'd worry about oil starvation due to the design of the oil pickup in the EA888 engine. 

[email protected]'s engine blew because of the starvation issue while he was driving fast down a hill. 

Other TSI owners have had similar issues taking hard turns on the track or on the street during "spirited" drives.

Dave


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

crew219 said:


> Like I said before, I'd worry about oil starvation due to the design of the oil pickup in the EA888 engine.
> 
> [email protected]'s engine blew because of the starvation issue while he was driving fast down a hill.
> 
> ...


But there's not an issue with cooling? It seems like going to stage 3+ would definitely create some heating issues.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> But there's not an issue with cooling? It seems like going to stage 3+ would definitely create some heating issues.


Ball bearing turbos require less oil flow than journal bearing turbos. There's an oil restrictor on the 3+ turbo oil inlet. 

So far I haven't seen the APR shop cars need any additional cooling. Perhaps you should ask [email protected] himself since he runs 3+ on his TSI.

Dave


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

It's been a month and a half since I've updated this thing, so here goes:

I've slowly been adding parts to my garage for this build. Right now, it's all supporting mods for a future big turbo upgrade. So far, I have porsche boxster calipers, apikol brakets and banjo bolts, upgraded ceramic pads for the rears for the brakes. I went ahead and ordered the tyrolsport master cylinder brace as well. Suspension will be upgraded too. Right now, I have the tyrolsport subframe collar kit, 304 motorsport track denisty strut mounts, superpro adjustable ball joints, and passat b6 lower control arms, as well as TT lower control arm bushings. I also plan to add some adjustable end links, and there is a shock / strut upgrade in the not too distant future. 

For the rear suspension, I haven't made any purchases yet, but I plan to go with the gruvenparts adjustable control arms and end links, and h&r rear sway bar. I plan on adding the 034 motorsport rear trailing arm spherical bearing kit. I've also just received the APR intercooler, and I've got the GFB DV+ on the way. This should all make for some nice improvements, and will help support what else is coming up. 

Things will probably start getting slow, because it is going to get significantly more expensive. I plan on upgraded internals as well.... I am going to do a bottom end upgrade with pistons, wrist pins, and rods, which will support a turbo upgrade. Rather than wait for APR to come out with whatever, I am going to get a GTX28 to swap into my current GT28 compressor housing. This will require the addition of some bosch high flow direct injection fuel injectors and an upgraded in-tank pump. The goal is around 420whp, which should be doable. That's all for now, tomorrow I will start posting pics of the parts that are starting to collect.....


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

Sounds great so far. Since it looks like you are going for lighter weight up front with the Passat control arms, you might want to check into the Passat aluminum spindles as well. I forget offhand what they save weight-wise, but they do swap right in. I got mine from an auto wrecker on eBay. Then again, you've got to mess with wheel bearings and the struts... Figured I would mention it though.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> For the rear suspension, I haven't made any purchases yet, but I plan to go with the gruvenparts adjustable control arms and end links, and h&r rear sway bar. I plan on adding the 034 motorsport rear trailing arm spherical bearing kit. I've also just received the APR intercooler, and I've got the GFB DV+ on the way. This should all make for some nice improvements, and will help support what else is coming up.


Gruven thinks we have the same rear suspension as the MKIV R32. Their control arms and links aren't for our application. 

I'm selling some new whiteline rear end links in classifieds btw. 

Dave


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

JRutter said:


> Sounds great so far. Since it looks like you are going for lighter weight up front with the Passat control arms, you might want to check into the Passat aluminum spindles as well. I forget offhand what they save weight-wise, but they do swap right in. I got mine from an auto wrecker on eBay. Then again, you've got to mess with wheel bearings and the struts... Figured I would mention it though.


Yeah, I'm not so sure about the spindles. The struts are easy enough, but the wheel bearings... no thanks. I'll probably end up getting a lighter battery, too.... the possibility of shedding close to 30 lbs with a simple battery swap is very tempting. 



crew219 said:


> Gruven thinks we have the same rear suspension as the MKIV R32. Their control arms and links aren't for our application.
> 
> I'm selling some new whiteline rear end links in classifieds btw.


Thanks... I wasn't aware that there was an issue with this, especially since ECS sells their stuff too. I would've thought they had done their homework. Looks like I'll be going a slightly different route for the rear.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*New parts*

Here's some of what we love... new parts pics! I decided to weigh everything as well, so I can get an idea of any added weight or weight savings. I used a simple luggage scale, which should be more accurate than a bathroom scale. 

Tyrolsport subframe collars:










These have been reviewed to death on this and other forums. I didn't take a pic of the weight, but they come in at just shy of 1 lb, and that's with packaging. Most of the weight is in the ARP bolts, which are replacing factory ones, so the difference should be so minor that it won't matter.


Superpro ball joints:




























It's a little blurry in the above pic but these weigh in at just over 1 lb each. 

DV+:



















This is really nice. It's well packaged, and it looks like a lot of thought went into it. I really like that it allows me to maintain the more reliable, electronically controlled setup while providing the ability to maintain boost longer. I didn't weigh this, because it is extremely light. There was no way for me to hang it, and it wouldn't register on the bathroom scale. 

034 Motorsport track density strut mounts:



















Again, not a great pic of the weight. It was pretty hard to hold the scale steady and balance the camera at a good angle to get a shot. These also weigh in at just over 1 lb a peice.

Porsche / Brembo calipers:










This was by far the heaviest thing I weighed today, and I was pleasantly surprised:










These weigh in at about 8.5 lbs each, which is less than I expected. Note from the pic that this includes the pads. It will be interesting to see what the stock calipers with pads weigh when removed. 

Apikol Brakets:










Again, a really nice piece. The packaging was isht, but it won't matter anyway. I'm considering a couple of layers of clear to prevent rust on these. 
No pics of the weigh-in on these either, but they come in at 1 lb exactly, without bolts. 

That's it for now. Tomorrow I'll figure a way to get the APR intercooler weighed, so I can compare that to what I'm running now. I'm thinking it could actually be close to the S3 / golf R one because there's no plastic.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Can you give any more info on that GFB diverter valve? I'm using the latest OEM DV (less than 10k miles on it now) and it seems like, from time to time, it's getting stuck open for a second between shifts. It's a horrible sensation and can't be too good for the turbo..


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

It installs onto the stock DV end:










According to GFB:

_Since the DV+ was released, it became apparent that there were significantly more variables than our initial testing revealed. This is because we have a patent pending on this product, and we were limited in how many different cars we could use during development since you cannot disclose the product to the public until the patent has been lodged.

The Audi/VW community has made us aware of a leaking issue with some of our DV+ valves, for which we’ve now engineered a solution.

The leaking issue is the result of a number of contributing factors, however it can be generally said that the problem is most common on cars using the K04 turbo. This is because in most cases, cars equipped with the K04 turbo run higher boost.

What we found is that it is possible for the plunger inside the solenoid coil to be forced open by high boost pressure, which results in a drop in pressure behind the main piston, causing the valve to partially open.

Whilst our initial testing showed the plunger to be capable of holding in excess of 30psi, we’ve since found that variations in the factory spring and a slight difference in the diameter of the o-ring used on the front of the plunger leads to significant differences in the ability of the plunger to stay shut under load.

Initially, a stronger plunger return spring seemed like a good solution, but after testing as many solenoid coils as we could, it appeared that the electromagnetic strength of the coils varies significantly, especially when hot. Therefore some coils were not able to reliably open the valve when a stronger spring was used.

Our solution? We have made changes to both the spring and the plunger to ensure that it does not get pushed open under boost, and that it continues to open reliably when the solenoid is energised by the ECU.

The changes to the DV+ T9351 kit are detailed below:

We have manufactured a spring that holds the plunger down with more than twice the force of the original factory spring
To ensure the solenoid is able to reliably retract this harder spring, the plunger has been made slightly longer to shorten the stroke. This means the electromagnetic retraction force of the coil on the plunger is significantly increased
The diameter of the silicone o-ring on the front of the plunger has been reduced so the area exposed to the boost pressure is smaller, which further increases its ability to resist being pushed open (smaller area means for a given pressure there is less force being applied)
All new T9351 DV+ kits come with the new plunger (which can be identified by its black colour as opposed to the silver finish of the original plunger) and spring._

I got the DV+ from Deutsche Auto parts. Obviously, I haven't installed it, but it's fairly popular on the Golf R thread, and I thought I would give it a go. I'll let you know when I get it on and what I think, which may be a little while, because I plan on doing a DV relocate, and I'm still waiting on parts for that.


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

In case you haven't seen this thread, here are the weights of the control arms and spindles:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...nthusiasts&p=77043815&viewfull=1#post77043815


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## Greddy87 (Oct 21, 2010)

@Nspace-- Good job on the 4 pistons..I have the same Apikol carriers & 4 piston brembos.. Def an awesome kit.. Not sure if you handled the brake pad wear light issue..? I simply took a chisel & got the wire & clip of the stock front driver side brake pad, connected the wire to the factory clip & zip tied it.. No more Brake wear beep & ((o)) symbol


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

JRutter said:


> In case you haven't seen this thread, here are the weights of the control arms and spindles:
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...1#post77043815


Yeah, I've been following that thread. I still plan on taking my own weights. I would like to do the spindles.... maybe someday, but it seems like a lot of work. Since you did them, what was your experience? Was it difficult, or just a matter of pulling everything off and putting it back together? I've had the struts off already from when I swapped the springs, but messing with the bearings / axle is probably something that will take longer than what I can deal with.... the car is still also my daily. 




Greddy87 said:


> @Nspace-- Good job on the 4 pistons..I have the same Apikol carriers & 4 piston brembos.. Def an awesome kit.. Not sure if you handled the brake pad wear light issue..? I simply took a chisel & got the wire & clip of the stock front driver side brake pad, connected the wire to the factory clip & zip tied it.. No more Brake wear beep & ((o)) symbol


Well, I haven't gotten to install yet... still need spacers for fitment. As far as the pad sensor goes, my plan was to cut the line from an old set of pads (I still have the originals that came with the car), twist together, heat shrink, and then zip tie up out of the way. 


In other news, I had a really encouraging talk with Gabe from Bluewater Performance yesterday about my planned upgrades / performance goals. Fueling is going to be the biggest hurdle right now, but luckily I have almost a year before I get back to the US and will have the time to dig into the internals. By then I will have all of the suspension and braking sorted out, as well as some transmission upgrades I've been looking into. Stay tuned......


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## JaxACR (Dec 6, 2007)

Regarding the brake wear sensor, if you cut the wires off of your old pad, the rubber boot can be separated from the plastic connector. I then cut the wires shorter than the length of the rubber boot, soldered them together, and slid the boot back over them. Then I used a zip tie on the end of the rubber boot to close it up and keep dust out of it. You'll end up with just the plug and not any excess wire to tie up.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

JaxACR said:


> Regarding the brake wear sensor, if you cut the wires off of your old pad, the rubber boot can be separated from the plastic connector. I then cut the wires shorter than the length of the rubber boot, soldered them together, and slid the boot back over them. Then I used a zip tie on the end of the rubber boot to close it up and keep dust out of it. You'll end up with just the plug and not any excess wire to tie up.


Thanks... sounds even better than my plan; should be a nice and tidy setup. Got any pics?


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

So, this is going to be a nice long rant, please bear with me. I've gotten a few questions about why I'm not waiting for APR to release a GTX kit for the TSI and just go with them, since I already have stage 3, and I will be doing the upgrade about the time that they release it. Here goes:

As I continue to build my car, I am less and less impressed with APR on the customer care side of things. They make top-notch products for sure, but their customer service has been pretty bad in my experience. It seems like they are at the point where they can use their name to charge a premium for whatever it is they decide to sell. I will probably still buy some of their stuff in the future, particularly products that I can't get elsewhere, but their approach to me as a customer has been awful. 

Take, for instance, their unwillingness, after 2 months, to get back to me about the ECU tune so I can make it work better with the DSG tune. I would think that they would want their product to work with what the customer wants. Instead, their response has been "well, we're coming out with a DSG tune in the near future, so buy ours". That doesn't really work, since they've been saying that they will have a tune for almost 3 years and still don't have one, and the ECU tune interference really has nothing to do with it – I would still have to get the ECU tune fixed. Basically, because the ECU was tuned first, it is coded to "trick" the DSG into shifts beyond the torque limiter on stock DSG programming, but now that I have the DSG tuned, it should be unrestricted. This was confirmed through numerous logging reports and attempts to rule out the ECU tune as a source of the problem. 

Marcel at HPA, on the other hand, is really a one man show, and he got back to me immediately and answered all of my questions. I’m not saying HPA has the hands down best product in everything they do, but at least I know there’s support when I need it. (thier DSG tune is awesome, BTW) In fact, that’s APRs very argument for a lot of their business, that they will be there to provide support, which I find at least a little ironic. A lot of people have turned their backs on APR, and I can see why. It isn't the product, it's the lack of support and unwillingness to work with their customers. 

Another issue was when I tried to buy the VWR springs through them; they refused to send anything to me via USPS because they claim to have an agreement with UPS. Really, it was laziness on their part IMO; an employee would have had to go to the post office to satisfy a customer. AP Tuning handled that task just fine, and even gave me a discount for being in the military (I didn’t even ask for one). 

There are a few places that seem to have their isht together. IE is one of them. So they get their steel imported… take a look and see where VAG buys their steel; it isn’t mined and milled in Germany. I also have been happy with Bluewater performance. I called to ask a few technical questions regarding tune and fueling, and they gave me the time I needed, and answered all of my questions. APR, on the other hand, acts as though I am wasting their time when I call, and won’t give me any specifics, for example, the spray pattern on their direct injection fuel injectors for the TSI, or the recommended pressure setting, or if a fuel rail adapter is required. Instead, all they tell me is, "if you spend $5k, we’ll send you a complete stage 3 to 3+ kit". That, or, “you don’t need bigger injectors with stage 3, so don’t worry about it”. This response is dismissive, arrogant, and insulting. That’s why, when I do get the GTX turbo, I won’t get APR’s upgraded kit. Instead, I’ll swap one into the existing compressor housing, and get a custom tune, and save myself somewhere in the range of $2k - $3k. 

Sorry about the long winded rant. I thought long and hard about whether or not to post this, and I am not trying to sell anything here, but hey, it's my build thread, and it should accurately document what I am going through. Dealing with vendors and sourcing parts is a big part of that process, and it gets left out on a lot of these threads. I know APR is a big sponsor of the forum, so hopefully I don't get the boot for putting this in here. I am not trying to bash anyone, and I think these comments are mild compared to what I've seen about other companies and people in here. Moderators, hopefully you take that into consideration when reading this.


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## [email protected] (Jul 29, 2008)

npace said:


> Take, for instance, their unwillingness, after 2 months, to get back to me about the ECU tune so I can make it work better with the DSG tune. I would think that they would want their product to work with what the customer wants. Instead, their response has been "well, we're coming out with a DSG tune in the near future, so buy ours".


Yes, this is exactly right. The DSG software and ECU software are a paired couple. We’ve studied the DSG platform for years and have seen all sorts of tricks along the way. Most simply find a code that’s similar to your stock code, and then force it onto the TCU. Does it work well? In some cases yes, but not always. There can be unseen consequences in doing so. 

There’s only one real way to handle your situation:

1. Get the car in house

2. Test the combination

3. Make changes if necessary

Simply put you’re using non APR recommended parts. We cannot know how they will react when paired together. It’s not a simple process of combining XYZ’s DSG software with ABC changes to the APR software. It would require having the vehicle in house to make any such changes. 




npace said:


> Another issue was when I tried to buy the VWR springs through them; they refused to send anything to me via USPS because they claim to have an agreement with UPS. Really, it was laziness on their part IMO; an employee would have had to go to the post office to satisfy a customer.


APR is a large company with many shipments every day. We ship globally and as such need to automate many of the processes we have in place to ship and track shipments. USPS does not offer integrated shipment tracking with the system we have, so we don’t use it. We simply cannot shut down operations to have someone run to the post office to ship out a single set of springs, but maybe one of our many dealers can offer you this service locally. 

To give you an idea of how many shipments we have on a day, take a look below. It takes all of production to get them ready for pickup by the end of the day. Sending off someone to the post office with one of those packages simply isn’t happening, nor should anyone ever expect it. All of these boxes are being shipped to customers and dealers:












npace said:


> for example, the spray pattern on their direct injection fuel injectors for the TSI


I understand you’re interested in this technical information but given we are not disclosing the injector model numbers and such, we simply cannot give out this proprietary information. 

If you are not happy with the injectors, you can call up bosch, give them specifications, and have a set made to your standards. You will then need to find a software provider capable of recalibrating for your new injectors.



npace said:


> , or the recommended pressure setting,


I understand you’re interested in this technical information, but there isn’t a recommended pressure. Direct injection runs at variable pressures, unlike most port injection setups. HDEV 5 injectors are rated up to 200 Bar.



npace said:


> or if a fuel rail adapter is required.


We sell complete kits, so unless we say otherwise, things like adapters are not required. We make it so you don’t need to worry about these details. Should they be, we would include them in the kit and list it on the site. 



npace said:


> Instead, all they tell me is, "if you spend $5k, we’ll send you a complete stage 3 to 3+ kit".


Yes. Absolutely 100% correct. That’s what we sell. A complete solution. No need to worry about which little parts you may need to make it all work together. We take care of all of that for you and offer you a complete solution sans the parts you may already own. 



npace said:


> That, or, “you don’t need bigger injectors with stage 3, so don’t worry about it”.


Yes, again, absolutely 100% correct. You don’t need bigger injectors with stage 3, so don’t worry about it. No need to spend extra money on parts you don’t need. The extra parts would not work with the existing stage 3 software either as injector size is a critical aspect of the calibration. 



npace said:


> This response is dismissive, arrogant, and insulting.


Insulting? Arrogant? Dismissive? You’re asking if you need any other parts and we’re saying “No, we give you a complete solutions so you don’t have to worry about additional parts.” That’s pretty awesome if you ask me.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> There are a few places that seem to have their isht together. IE is one of them. So they get their steel imported… take a look and see where VAG buys their steel; it isn’t mined and milled in Germany.


LOL

No. That is far from the truth.

http://www.shineu.diytrade.com



ShineU said:


> 4340 "H" beam racing rods feature: rods and bolts are separately forged from quality chrome moly steel to obtain optimum grain flow. A total of 356 machining processes and state-of-the-art of final touches create the lightest rods in the racing industry. All big and small ends are finished with SUNNEN cross grinder. Bronze wrist pin bushings are made to with stand higher impact force. A third hole drilled at end of the bushing releases any air pockets from the bushing.


Wanna get some "npace" rods? 

http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/737189804/Audi_Connecting_Rods_A3_S3_2.html

Sells for $30-200 each! IE logo gets you a 100% markup!


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## Sleeper_A3 (Nov 2, 2013)

Not trying to defend APR here but my take on them is that they are a corporation to make a profit and they want to be your one-stop shop for all your mods. If you only buy their products they will be responsive to you and provide the support you nee. But the moment you start mixing and matching different companies mods (i.e., APR ECU tune and HPA DSG tune) and have problems don't expect the same level of support from them. 

On the other hand if you bought everything from APR, got them installed at an APR dealer, and you still have problems ... you have every right to go after them.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> Instead, all they tell me is, "if you spend $5k, we’ll send you a complete stage 3 to 3+ kit". That, or, “you don’t need bigger injectors with stage 3, so don’t worry about it”. This response is dismissive, arrogant, and insulting. That’s why, when I do get the GTX turbo, I won’t get APR’s upgraded kit. Instead, I’ll swap one into the existing compressor housing, and get a custom tune, and save myself somewhere in the range of $2k - $3k.


The Stage 3 to 3+ kit is $3k on their site, not 5k.

APR Stage III+ Upgrade Kit	T3100041	$2,999.99

It includes "This upgrade package includes upgraded APR Stage III+ Software, APR Stage III+ Turbocharger, APR Stage III+ Injectors and all the necessary replacement parts needed to upgrade your Stage III to Stage III+!"

A 3071R without anything costs around $1500. Figure $200-300 for any waste gate calibration, reconfiguration of the housing. Add on special injectors and all the necessary gaskets etc, then factor in software. Their price for the upgrade isn't outrageous. 

Dave


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## [email protected] (Jul 29, 2008)

Good point Dave. 

Here's the upgrade kit:










It includes the following (I may be missing a few parts):

1x - GT3071R CHRA
1x - GT3071R Compressor Cover
1x - GT3071R Turbine Cover
1x - Turbo Assembly and Clocking Labor
1x - Wastegate Actuator
1x - Wastegate Bracket
1x - Wastegate Rod
3x - Wastegate Actuator to Bracket Nuts
1x - Wastegate Assembly and Setting Labor
5x - Downturn Studs
2x - Oil Drain Gaskets
2x - Oil Feed Crush Washers
6x - Coolant Return and Feed Crush Washers
4x - Downpipe to Downturn Nuts
1x - Downpipe to Downturn Gasket
1x - Turbo to Manifold Gasket
4x - Turbo to Manifold Nuts
4x - Turbo to Manifold Washers
1x - Manifold to Head Gasket
5x - Manifold to Head Nuts
5x - Manifold to Head Washers
1x - APR Injector Harness
4x - APR Injectors
1x - Injector Harness Assembly Labor
1x - APR Stage 3+ ECU Software

Total customer cost: $2,999.99!

Look at a few of the big ticket items:

- Fully assembled, clicked and set GT3071R turbo with compressor/turbine cover and Wastegate 
- 4 APR Injectors with APR Harness
- APR Stage 3+ Software
- Washers, Nuts and Gaskets

What's that cost in the real world?

Turbo setup - $1,700+
Injector setup - $1,300+
Software - $800-$1,500
Nuts, Bolts and Gaskets - $150

Even if you think that's too high of an estimate, let's just pick numbers out of the air and see where they wind up:

Turbo - $1500
Injector - $1000
Software - $500
Hardware - $100

Total = Still more than APR.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Before we get all crazy, remember, I said I think APR makes great products, and my problem has been with their customer service. 


[email protected] said:


> Yes, this is exactly right. The DSG software and ECU software are a paired couple. We’ve studied the DSG platform for years and have seen all sorts of tricks along the way. Most simply find a code that’s similar to your stock code, and then force it onto the TCU. Does it work well? In some cases yes, but not always. There can be unseen consequences in doing so.


I had asked if this was the issue 2 months ago and was told something along the lines of "I'll ask the engineers and get back to you" Then nothing. I also asked HPA, who took logs and gave me a more definitive answer. I never once asked for something for free. I was perfectly willing to take my car to an APR dealer, but I didn't want to drive the 2+ hours to get it there if this wouldn't fix the problem or wasn't the issue. The lack of response was my problem. 



[email protected] said:


> I understand you’re interested in this technical information but given we are not disclosing the injector model numbers and such, we simply cannot give out this proprietary information.


Again, this answer would have been better than no answer. It seems like my one little post on this thread got a lot more response than any of my questions, which should raise eyebrows. I'm not saying it isn't good that APR provides a complete kit, that misses the point. I'm saying it's dismissive to avoid the question and answer it with a sales pitch. I would rather be told "We don't provide proprietary information" or "we really can't tell you about the tune unless you bring the car in" etc. than a "I'll get back to you" which was followed with a sales pitch. It's the same with the ECU / DSG tune. A simple "take it to your dealer who can run some logs and we'll take a look, and see what adjustments can be made" would have been a great answer. Maybe it's just me, but I prefer a honest and direct approach. And if you read my original post, that's really what it's all about. 



crew219 said:


> No. That is far from the truth.


Dave, I respect your opinions, and am generally in agreement with what you post, and seek your advice from time to time, but what's far from the truth? I said IE imports their stuff, which they admitted to me. I also said that VAG imports their steel, and that it is not mined and milled in Germany, which it isn't. You're basically stating that my comment is a lie, which it isn't. Not sure where you're going with that.... My comment pertaining to IE specifically had to do with their customer service, quick answers, direct, no hassle, and easy to work with. 

Lastly, I'm not going after anyone. I never asked APR for sponsorship, or a free tune, or whatever. I simply wanted to know if their ECU tune included communication with the DSG concerning torque limiting values, and if so, if that could be changed or set to zero. If it could, I would have gladly gone to an APR dealer and paid for an update. My problem had nothing to do with their answer, it was the stringing along lack of answer that bothered me.

In the end, this is the most honest feedback I've gotten from APR on these questions and issues, which I really do appreciate. I wish it didn't have to happen in the way it did, but thanks for the response.


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## [email protected] (Jul 29, 2008)

npace said:


> Before we get all crazy, remember, I said I think APR makes great products, and my problem has been with their customer service.


Thank you. No ill will is meant by my post. I'm just answering questions or explaining things further. This thread landed in my inbox by a customer this morning. 



npace said:


> I had asked if this was the issue 2 months ago and was told something along the lines of "I'll ask the engineers and get back to you" Then nothing. I also asked HPA, who took logs and gave me a more definitive answer. I never once asked for something for free. I was perfectly willing to take my car to an APR dealer, but I didn't want to drive the 2+ hours to get it there if this wouldn't fix the problem or wasn't the issue. The lack of response was my problem.


It's quite possible the person you spoke to wasn't able to get an answer without more data, but I'm sorry they didn't follow up. I reread your thread. It seems you are quite happy. Is the car not working correctly now?



> Again, this answer would have been better than no answer. It seems like my one little post on this thread got a lot more response than any of my questions, which should raise eyebrows. I'm not saying it isn't good that APR provides a complete kit, that misses the point. I'm saying it's dismissive to avoid the question and answer it with a sales pitch. I would rather be told "We don't provide proprietary information" or "we really can't tell you about the tune unless you bring the car in" etc. than a "I'll get back to you" which was followed with a sales pitch. It's the same with the ECU / DSG tune. A simple "take it to your dealer who can run some logs and we'll take a look, and see what adjustments can be made" would have been a great answer. Maybe it's just me, but I prefer a honest and direct approach. And if you read my original post, that's really what it's all about.


I see where you're coming from. I don't answer the phones so I don't know what was said but it sounds unsatisfactory, so I'll send this off to our sales manager for review. I appreciate you bringing it to my attention. 



> Lastly, I'm not going after anyone. I never asked APR for sponsorship, or a free tune, or whatever. I simply wanted to know if their ECU tune included communication with the DSG concerning torque limiting values, and if so, if that could be changed or set to zero. If it could, I would have gladly gone to an APR dealer and paid for an update. My problem had nothing to do with their answer, it was the stringing along lack of answer that bothered me.


I'm not sure I understand the specific request. Maybe if you describe the scenario, I can help further. Does the car no longer work well after the DSG flash? I seemed to read otherwise earlier, but maybe that's changed? Fill me in.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> Dave, I respect your opinions, and am generally in agreement with what you post, and seek your advice from time to time, but what's far from the truth? I said IE imports their stuff, which they admitted to me. I also said that VAG imports their steel, and that it is not mined and milled in Germany, which it isn't. You're basically stating that my comment is a lie, which it isn't. Not sure where you're going with that.... My comment pertaining to IE specifically had to do with their customer service, quick answers, direct, no hassle, and easy to work with.


Perhaps I read your statement in a different way than you intended. As you stated, "IE is one of them. So they get their steel imported… " I read that as "they get their steel imported, and then they make the rods here," which is the exact incorrect rumor that has been going around for awhile, and what you mentioned to me in PM. Keep in mind that the VAG internals are exactly what you're looking to replace because they're not strong enough. 

When it comes down to it, IE is a business. It's not uncommon for many products to have a 100% markup. That being said, how much do you believe in the formulation of the alloy when it is purchased at that price? As I mentioned earlier, these cheap rods have ruined the market. With good marketing, they have their niche. 

Dave


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## JaxACR (Dec 6, 2007)

npace said:


> Thanks... sounds even better than my plan; should be a nice and tidy setup. Got any pics?


I'll get some for you tomorrow or Wednesday... Whenever it stops raining.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> Thank you. No ill will is meant by my post. I'm just answering questions or explaining things further. This thread landed in my inbox by a customer this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm quite happy with all of the products. The car works fine, except near redline in low gears, I get clutch slippage due to, from what I can tell via VAG-COM logs, a software conflict. HPA seems to think it has to do with a setting that was in the ECU to "trick" the DSG to going past it's stock torque limit, I just want to know if that can be adjusted in the tune. Really that's the best way I can explain it. I could also send the log reports, but they probably aren't that helpful, because there's an error message that comes up right at the point of slippage. 



crew219 said:


> When it comes down to it, IE is a business. It's not uncommon for many products to have a 100% markup. That being said, how much do you believe in the formulation of the alloy when it is purchased at that price? As I mentioned earlier, these cheap rods have ruined the market. With good marketing, they have their niche.


No worries. I could see where it would sound that way. I'm not sure about the alloy strength; like I said it would be really interesting to conduct mass and density tests on all three to see the difference, but you would need the $$, an appropriate set of instruments, and the time to do it. 



JaxACR said:


> I'll get some for you tomorrow or Wednesday... Whenever it stops raining.


Thanks, I look forward to it.


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## Greddy87 (Oct 21, 2010)

NSPACE--* No need for any splicing or cutting.*.. I simply removed the wire from the stock brake pad..Connected it back to its stock location & zip tied it..


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## Greddy87 (Oct 21, 2010)

Cheers.. !


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Got a nice little package from the UK today:










Solid OEM bushings from the TT. Passat control arms are still on the way, but I have a lot of suspension installing to do..... :thumbup:


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> Got a nice little package from the UK today:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I would try to find a good angle to clock them at when you put them in. Once lowered, the bushing is always partly twisted at rest.


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## [email protected] (Jul 29, 2008)

npace said:


> I'm quite happy with all of the products. The car works fine, except near redline in low gears, I get clutch slippage due to, from what I can tell via VAG-COM logs, a software conflict. HPA seems to think it has to do with a setting that was in the ECU to "trick" the DSG to going past it's stock torque limit, I just want to know if that can be adjusted in the tune. Really that's the best way I can explain it. I could also send the log reports, but they probably aren't that helpful, because there's an error message that comes up right at the point of slippage.


Hmm, I'm surprised if there's a problem we haven't heard of it before on other vehicles. Is it possible the rev limiter was raised, and you're hitting the limiter? I've seen a few things like that happen in the past. 

As far as adjusting load or torque, in doing so, the ECU would need to be recalibrated in house as it would change the calculations used for many other variables.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> Hmm, I'm surprised if there's a problem we haven't heard of it before on other vehicles. Is it possible the rev limiter was raised, and you're hitting the limiter? I've seen a few things like that happen in the past.
> 
> As far as adjusting load or torque, in doing so, the ECU would need to be recalibrated in house as it would change the calculations used for many other variables.


Thanks for the response. When you say "in house" I assume you mean at APR in Alabama, correct?


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

crew219 said:


> I would try to find a good angle to clock them at when you put them in. Once lowered, the bushing is always partly twisted at rest.


My plan was to mark one of the corners to the bracket on the current bushing with a paint marker and a straight edge, and then to mark the solid one so I know where to press it in. Is there a better way to do this? I could set it a mm off center toward the inside with this method so the control arms "twist" them into the appropriate position. The car isn't that low... I have VWR springs and don't plan to go lower at all. Other than end links in the front and back, and a sway bar and trailing arm bushing in the rear, the only other suspension mod I have planned is shocks / struts so going lower shouldn't be a huge issue. 

I understand the maths behind the suspension geometry, but my experience level is low, so I'm open to better ideas on a better method for this if anybody has one.


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## subisan (Mar 30, 2009)

:thumbup::thumbup:

Love the amount of thought put into everything. The Brembo upgrade was the best thing I've done to my car thus far. :beer:


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## [email protected] (Jul 29, 2008)

npace said:


> Thanks for the response. When you say "in house" I assume you mean at APR in Alabama, correct?


Yes


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## JaxACR (Dec 6, 2007)

Finally got some pics of what I did with the pad wear sensor. Sorry 'bout the rubbish quality!

What it looks like all buttoned up.









Wires cut just long enough to twist together and heat shrink, yet short enough to fit inside the rubber boot.









Tip of the boot zip tied shut to keep dust out.









Dummy pad wear sensor plugged into stock harness and held in place by stock bracket. No need to tie any slack wires up, and the harness remains unmodified and protected from the elements in case I run a pad with a wear sensor in the future.









And finally, my only gripe about the Boxster caliper conversion: since it leaves a bit of the rotor unswept, I've got a ring of perma-rust toward the center of the caliper. I've thought about masking everything but that ring and hitting it with some high temp clear or black caliper paint, but I'm not sure that either will stand up to the temps that the rotor sees.









If any of the pics aren't clear or you want to see anything else, let me know. I'll be under the car again tomorrow in the daylight.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

JaxACR said:


> If any of the pics aren't clear or you want to see anything else, let me know. I'll be under the car again tomorrow in the daylight.


Looks good, and it's a better solution than what I had planned. With the rotors, will boxster rotors not work? Another option would be to get VHT rust converter. It will turn black and stop it from rusting further.

Also, nice moustache tatoo on the finger.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

JaxACR said:


> And finally, my only gripe about the Boxster caliper conversion: since it leaves a bit of the rotor unswept, I've got a ring of perma-rust toward the center of the caliper. I've thought about masking everything but that ring and hitting it with some high temp clear or black caliper paint, but I'm not sure that either will stand up to the temps that the rotor sees.


Here's your ticket: http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/flameproof/ It'll withstand temps from 1500-2000F. Your brakes shouldn't ever get that hot!


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## JaxACR (Dec 6, 2007)

Boxster rotors are a different bolt pattern (5x130, IIRC) so they won't bolt up with our hubs. Stock front rotors work, and the unswept band isn't detrimental to performance, just a bit unsightly.

I'll take a look at those VHT paints, sounds like a better option than the caliper paints I've seen. :thumbup:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Finally got the Passat control arms in and some OEM nuts and bolts that I'll need. Also, I need to contact ECS tuning, as the tie rod separator wasn't in the box as listed on the packing slip (and paid for). :banghead:

Last couple of things will be end links and a new shock / strut kit... still torn on where to go with shocks but leaning toward bilsteins. 

Also, has anyone done the DV relocation? I'm not planning on putting in the GFB DV+ until I relocate. Planning on using a MkV throttle pipe and some silicone tubing. Also, can I route the tubing back to the stock location, or do I need to put it somewhere else? I want to do this clean, and I was going to just get the Golf R tubing and route back to the "stock" location (it's close to stock, but not the original turbo so slightly off). I know that it has to go somewhere after the MAF, but not sure if there is a better location. The reason I'm doing this, BTW, is ease of access, not any perceived "gains".


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Nobody's done the DV relocate? I think I will pipe it back to the stock location, unless anyone has any objections. Dave, if you're reading, correct me now or parts are on the way and its happening...


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> Nobody's done the DV relocate? I think I will pipe it back to the stock location, unless anyone has any objections. Dave, if you're reading, correct me now or parts are on the way and its happening...


A DV relocate will work well with that BW valve I sold you. You'll have a much shorter vac line run from the intake manifold which will result in better response. 

I'm purchasing all the OEM components for the DV relocate on my FSI.

Dave


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Other than wiring extension, a MkIV throttle pipe, a DV block off for the turbo, and some tubing, that's all that's needed, right? I was planning on running the valve right there off of the throttle pipe, and then having the silicone tubing run back to the turbo where the DV currently re-circ's back to, sort of like the golf R... I'm not sure if that makes sense right now, I'm 4 belgian beers into a 6 pack, lol.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> Other than wiring extension, a MkIV throttle pipe, a DV block off for the turbo, and some tubing, that's all that's needed, right? I was planning on running the valve right there off of the throttle pipe, and then having the silicone tubing run back to the turbo where the DV currently re-circ's back to, sort of like the golf R... I'm not sure if that makes sense right now, I'm 4 belgian beers into a 6 pack, lol.


DV block off for the turbo? Easier to just buy plugs for the APR silicone. You have the inlet pipe that has one APR plug in it already right? 

No need for a wiring extension if you're using that BW valve. Just plug in the resistor. 

MKIV throttle pipe? No idea. Keep in mind that most aftermarket throttle pipes have poor clearance with the radiator fan after installing the APR IC. 

Dave


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Below is a crappy drawing / pic of what I'm talking about. I meant MkV throttle pipe... not aftermarket, just an OEM piece that has the port for the noise pipe. A friend has one that he blocked off, so I'm thinking I can get him to do an even trade.... Also, you're right, I have the APR setup, so I guess it's just a plug. Running the silicone back is to re-route the air, unless you're suggesting I vent to atmosphere? The wiring is to maintain the use of an electronically controlled DV. After talking with a few people at IE and APR, this seems to be the preferred method. 










I saw a couple people did something similar to this but put a hole in the silicone.... the thing everyone seems to agree on is routing it to a location after the MAF sensor.


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## JaxACR (Dec 6, 2007)

Supposedly the stock DV wiring will reach with the DV relocated to the noise pipe bung on the throttle pipe... You just have to pull the wires out of the stock loom and route them to the new location.

P.S. I'm interested to hear your thoughts on the Passat control arms, that's on my to-do list also. Did you get the aluminum Passat spindles while you were at it?


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> Below is a crappy drawing / pic of what I'm talking about. I meant MkV throttle pipe... not aftermarket, just an OEM piece that has the port for the noise pipe. A friend has one that he blocked off, so I'm thinking I can get him to do an even trade.... Also, you're right, I have the APR setup, so I guess it's just a plug. Running the silicone back is to re-route the air, unless you're suggesting I vent to atmosphere? The wiring is to maintain the use of an electronically controlled DV. After talking with a few people at IE and APR, this seems to be the preferred method.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Ah, your inlet pipe doesn't have the port on it.









I would just remove that plug and transfer it to one of the two holes i'd need to plug on the outlet pipes.

Aren't the throttle body pipes different between TSI & FSI?

Dave


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

crew219 said:


> Ah, your inlet pipe doesn't have the port on it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I haven't taken any measurements yet, but they appear to be the exact same size, the only difference being that the VW models came with that noise pipe port, which is nice to have for a clean DV relocation. But I think I see what you're saying. I think my "concept art" is pretty much the same, it just changes where the tubing goes back to, and I swap the plug over. Easier and cheaper, FTW....


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

JaxACR said:


> Supposedly the stock DV wiring will reach with the DV relocated to the noise pipe bung on the throttle pipe... You just have to pull the wires out of the stock loom and route them to the new location.
> 
> P.S. I'm interested to hear your thoughts on the Passat control arms, that's on my to-do list also. Did you get the aluminum Passat spindles while you were at it?


Thanks for the tip on the wiring. No, I didn't get the aluminum spindles. It's very likely that I will in the future, but right now it's not doable based on what I have in terms of tools and a garage to work with. I will post an update when I do get the control arms installed, though. 

Also, I am at a bit of a crossroads right now in terms of what to do next... I can either go full-court press on the suspension, and get the last few things on my list (shocks/struts, rear sway bar, end links all around) and finish it, or I can put it on hold for wheels. I planned on getting some lighter wheels, 17x8 or 17x8.5 late next spring, but I just got some news and realized that I will be attending Worthersee this year ..... any suggestions? Below are two of what I'm thinking about... both pretty different.









*Rotiform BLQs*










*OZ Alleggerita HLT*

I really like the color of the OZs, and I'm pretty sure they weigh less, but the mesh design on the rotiform's is quite appealing.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

BRotiform :thumbdown:

http://shop.achtuning.com/Hartmann-HLP-410-GSM-19-Inch-Replica-Wheels-Volkswagen.aspx


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

crew219 said:


> BRotiform :thumbdown:
> 
> http://shop.achtuning.com/Hartmann-HLP-410-GSM-19-Inch-Replica-Wheels-Volkswagen.aspx


Those are 19"; I want to run 17"s.....


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## subisan (Mar 30, 2009)

Too lazy to find and post pics. I also can't STAND 80% of Rotiform's selection.

Enkei RC-T4

Enkei NTO3+M

Enkei RPF1

Enkei RC5

Tarmacs

:wave:


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> Those are 19"; I want to run 17"s.....


You want to run ET 30 or 20 17"s?


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

The OZ wheels will be much easier to keep clean.. just a consideration to take.

I really like those Rotiforms though.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

crew219 said:


> You want to run ET 30 or 20 17"s?


I guess I could go with the fifteen52 forged formula classics... that is kind of a low offset... but I do want to stick with 17" wheels, and some meaty tires.
The OZs are probably more realistic, and they are super lightwieght (somewhere in the 18lb neighborhood IIRC)


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## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

IIRC, the Alleggerita are closer to 16lbs. The Ultraleggera that I had on my TT were 17.5lbs, and I remember that the Alleggerita were a fair bit lighter. I love OZ wheels - super light, reasonably strong (for an inexpensive, cast wheel), cheap as hell, and easy to clean!


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

I did these for 17" track wheels. 17 lbs. on my scale. I like the JDMish spokes...

http://www.neuspeed.com/96/24/0/2876/880503b-rse05-light-weight-wheel.html

Kinda wishing I had gotten red, just for S&G.


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## easthk (Oct 10, 2004)

picked these up for track days 17x8 et 45. 

Spokes are concave and clear the boxster calipers with plenty of room- no spacers needed. Pretty cheap and light weight, except they took the slow boat shipping from UK, about 12 weeks! (and they sent wrong color, but whatever... black isn't a bad mistake)
http://www.outmotoring.com/mini-cooper/mini-cooper-team-dynamics-pro-race.html

Team Dynamics Pro 1.2


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## Sleeper_A3 (Nov 2, 2013)

Great thread nspace, one question: Why did you choose VWR springs over coilovers for your suspension?


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Sleeper_A3 said:


> Great thread nspace, one question: Why did you choose VWR springs over coilovers for your suspension?


Thanks. I've been out of town all week (Italy.... got to go on the Ferrari tour  ). I don't care for coilovers because adjusting them is a PITA; especially since I do not currently have a garage, and I only go to the track about 1-2 times a month in the summer. Plus, JRutter inspired me to go with something similar to his setup. I am currently saving for a better set of shocks / struts. Like most mods, I think it comes down to preference, and I wanted something with comfort but still the improvement in handling. When I get around to actually replacing the shocks / struts, front control arms, swapping in the TT bushings, the Ball joints, and the HD strut mounts, plus a rear sway bar and improved trailing arm bushings (or maybe bearings) I should have a car that handles much better than stock. I don't have anything against coilovers, they're just not in line with what I'm trying to do with this car.


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## Sleeper_A3 (Nov 2, 2013)

npace said:


> I don't care for coilovers because adjusting them is a PITA


Why not just adjust the coilovers once and forget them? The dampers and springs are matched from the factory and this is one less thing we need to worry about. I guess you could be forced to adjust them twice if you end up not liking your ride the first time. 

With springs and struts you really have to make sure they match together and you really don't have any adjustability. Where am I wrong?


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Sleeper_A3 said:


> Why not just adjust the coilovers once and forget them? The dampers and springs are matched from the factory and this is one less thing we need to worry about. I guess you could be forced to adjust them twice if you end up not liking your ride the first time.
> 
> With springs and struts you really have to make sure they match together and you really don't have any adjustability. Where am I wrong?


I never said you were wrong, it's just not what I'm looking to do. Here is a comparison of the spring rates from the sport springs the car came with to the VWR springs:

Stock Front:
190
380
581
785

VWR Front:
198
405
612
817


Stock rear:
278
567
856
1136

VWR rear:
273
550
824
1095 

As you can see, the springs rates are still within the factory dampener tolerances. I plan on getting Ohlins shocks / struts, which will allow dampener adjustibility so that I can have a stiffer, better handling ride while keeping the two matched. Like with anything else, all coilovers are not created equal. A lot of places sell coilovers for multiple vehicles; in other words, the exact same thing for cars with different weights, wheelbases, etc. They can't work for all applications, so IMO, the improvement is probably limited. Again, I'm not against colovers, I just don't want them. The cost difference isn't justifiable if I won't be using the main feature, which is the adjustable ride height. You could say that the ohlins suspension is pricier than coilovers, but that's not a good comparison unless you compare them to a premium set, like Billstein clubsports. Plus, changing the ride height changes the spring rates, and unless you get coilovers with adjustable dampeners, then they are only matched to a point. Most people just throw them on and then "slam" their cars all the way, without consideration for this. So yeah, I'm going this route.

Edit: Thanks to tyrolsport for confirming the spring rates based on my color codes


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*ECS tuning*

So I know a lot of people on here aren't big on ECS tuning, but I had to throw out that their customer service is excellent, IMO. I recently had an order come in with an item missing, although it was on the packing list. I called them up, told them what the problem was, and they sent a new one, no questions asked. For everyone that's been reading this thread, I guess you could say I'm big on customer service. I've read a lot of nightmare stories about people dealing with other companies to save a few dollars (literally 3 dollars in some cases) and getting screwed around and having to pay more for the part somewhere else. Food for thought the next time you make an order, I guess.


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## subisan (Mar 30, 2009)

npace said:


> So I know a lot of people on here aren't big on ECS tuning, but I had to throw out that their customer service is excellent, IMO. I recently had an order come in with an item missing, although it was on the packing list. I called them up, told them what the problem was, and they sent a new one, no questions asked. For everyone that's been reading this thread, I guess you could say I'm big on customer service. I've read a lot of nightmare stories about people dealing with other companies to save a few dollars (literally 3 dollars in some cases) and getting screwed around and having to pay more for the part somewhere else. Food for thought the next time you make an order, I guess.


Exact same thing happened to me the other week. I've ordered a good $2k+ from ECS and not once had an issue, but always worried about [seemingly] everyone else's terrible experiences with them, so I kept ordering. Got a bad MAF and the wrong timing belt damper, called em up and had a shipping label in 5 minutes.

:thumbup::thumbup:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*What to do without a Bentley?*

So I'm starting to get together the pieces that I'll need for the bottom end rebuild that will allow the GTX setup, but.... what do I do without a Bentley? There isn't one available for the TSI yet, so where is everyone getting information from on tolerances and such (plasti-guaging, etc)? If anyone has info / recommendations on this, I would appreciate it.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Okay, so there's a lot of people in here right now.... nobody knows a good way to get the information if the bentley hasn't been released yet?


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

npace said:


> Okay, so there's a lot of people in here right now.... nobody knows a good way to get the information if the bentley hasn't been released yet?


Have a friend at the dealership? Get them to Scan it ? Distribute and we profit.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Ponto said:


> Have a friend at the dealership? Get them to Scan it ? Distribute and we profit.


Right now if I did it would be in Dutch.... pretty useless unless I can get a digital copy


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## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

npace said:


> So I'm starting to get together the pieces that I'll need for the bottom end rebuild that will allow the GTX setup, but.... what do I do without a Bentley?


Clearances are manufacturer-independent when building engines, and depend heavily on your hardware and performance goals. Either get a great machinist (note that very few are great, so good luck there), or start reading machinist/engineering books and forums. I did the latter when I set out to build my engines, and I found http://speedtalk.com/forum/ to be a great forum, with many very skilled machinists. There are also many good books on this subject, which are decently priced on Amazon.





Ponto said:


> Have a friend at the dealership? Get them to Scan it ? Distribute and we profit.


I wouldn't listen to anything that _any_ dealership tells you about building engines - they're generally very far from knowledgeable on this subject.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

jbrehm said:


> I wouldn't listen to anything that _any_ dealership tells you about building engines - they're generally very far from knowledgeable on this subject.


I didn't mean listen to them. I meant if they have a service manual or Bentley.

I only know one dealer mechanic I would trust for engine work - only because he has been building all his own engines for the last 20 years. His Aircooleds are pieces of art I swear.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

jbrehm said:


> Clearances are manufacturer-independent when building engines, and depend heavily on your hardware and performance goals. Either get a great machinist (note that very few are great, so good luck there), or start reading machinist/engineering books and forums. I did the latter when I set out to build my engines, and I found http://speedtalk.com/forum/ to be a great forum, with many very skilled machinists. There are also many good books on this subject, which are decently priced on Amazon.


Do you have any good book recommendations on the subject? There's quite a few. Forums are okay, but I always take their advice with a grain of salt, because people who don't know seem to be more willing to post in a forum than to write a book about a topic. Thanks.


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## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

npace said:


> Forums are okay, but I always take their advice with a grain of salt, because people who don't know seem to be more willing to post in a forum than to write a book about a topic. Thanks.



Absolutely; which, is why technical resources are vastly superior to asking random dudes about stuff. That said, forums can also be a gold mine of info! 98% of users don't have a clue what they're talking about, and just repeat things that someone told them, 1% has some good knowledge and experience, and 1% has a solid technical/engineering understanding of what they speak about. Your job is to disseminate who is who, which I don't really find to be very difficult. :laugh: Although, many technical forums have a mostly knowledgeable user-base, since laypeople can't just come in and spout erroneous information without being driven off. Speedtalk is one of those forums.

Assembly:

Bill Jones' books come highly recommended from many competition engine builders.
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=29012&start=15

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/193470962X/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=jbblogshop-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=193470962X

http://www.amazon.com/Engine-Blueprinting-Practical-Rebuilding-S/dp/1884089267/ref=pd_sim_b_1

http://www.amazon.com/Reher-Morrison-Championship-Engine-Assembly-Colesworthy/dp/0972343288/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

http://www.amazon.com/Competition-Engine-Building-Advanced-Techniques-ebook/product-reviews/B00B6UB642/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1


Design (only really interesting if you want to read Engineering-type stuff):

http://www.amazon.com/dp/0768004403/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=187O37222E9EB&coliid=I2L9WKQ3H2AJMN



Engine assembly is not _that_ difficult, but it's not for the faint of heart. I've only built a few, but I'm always pretty nervous turning the key for the first time...and pounding 30+psi of boost through it...and revving north of 8k RPM. I would definitely recommend to put your energy into finding a great machinist/engine builder to do it for you, unless it's a skill that you want to acquire for yourself.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

jbrehm said:


> Engine assembly is not _that_ difficult, but it's not for the faint of heart. I've only built a few, but I'm always pretty nervous turning the key for the first time...and pounding 30+psi of boost through it...and revving north of 8k RPM. I would definitely recommend to put your energy into finding a great machinist/engine builder to do it for you, unless it's a skill that you want to acquire for yourself.


Much thanks... I just needed a little push in the right direction. Acquire the skill myself? I absolutely want to, but now I'm thinking I should be doing it on an older, less expensive car.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*Update*

So I don't know about all of you, but I did get some pretty cool stuff for Christmas. :biggrinsanta:

H&R wheel spacers so I can finally fit on the porsche brakes and also some bilstein sport shocks /struts. I was originally going to go with Ohlins, but couldn't justify / afford the cost. Also picked up some new hardware for the install, an H&R rear sway bar, and damping plates for the brembos, which should be a nice little add on.... 

Now I just have to fight my two biggest enemies: cold and laziness. The cold has been making me a real p**sy when it comes to actually working on the car, and unfortunately, work has been picking up substantially. I probably won't get around to a lot of this until Feb / Mar. The goal is to have the suspension as close to complete as possible with all of the already purchased mods, and ready for the big move back across the pond. This will include an oil change, and I may do a transmission and haldex oil swap depending on what those look like before the car goes. It'll be sitting in a lot and then on a boat and then in another lot for a combined total of about two months, so I also plan to throw on a few layers of wax in an effort to save the paint. That, or vinyl wrap...

Anyway, that's it for now. I'll get pics in when I can. I hope everyone had a merry Christmas or whatever they choose to celebrate, and I'll have more to come in the new year.

:snowcool:

Now I'm patiently waiting to see what jbrehm's been doing... something tells me he's got big stuff going on in his garage...:beer:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*New update*

I've been trying to motivate myself to do some work, and I finally got around to a little today. Not a lot, mind you, but it's a start. 

First, I installed the tyrolsport mc brace. It required some minor cutting of the battery tray, but nothing significant. The installation instructions are straightforward and easy to follow, so no DIY here. I will say that I chose not to cut the foam with a razor, as instructed, but instead just allowed the brace to smash it down a little. it still installed without issue, and fits nice and snug. 

Pic of the brace installed under the (very dirty) battery tray:










Closeup; you can see where the tray had to be cut for fitment. 










Since I had the airbox out, I decided to clean the filter, too. 
It's a good thing, because it was filthy. In addition to the dirt, you can see all the dead bugs that were hanging out:










After cleaning - as good as new:










Afterwards, I took the car for a test drive. After the normal grief you get when the battery is disconnected, I took the car for a spin around town and tried to see the difference in the mc brace. Pedal feel / travel has improved, although not as much as I would have liked.... but it's still a nice improvement over stock. Throttle response has also improved a little with a clean air filter; it's amazing how every time I change or clean a filter, I am always surprised by the improvement. 

Next week, I plan to get to work on all the suspension goodies I've got hanging around in my garage. Not a huge update, but it's a start.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*Dampeners*

So, I just put new bilstein sport struts in the front, and they are nice. But.... I decided to re-use the strut mount bearings that were already on there. Now, I have this terrible thunk coming from the driver's side... and it sounds like the shock tower is the source of the sound to me. Happens every time I hit any kind of bump in the road, and it doesn't matter if I'm turning or going straight. I went ahead and ordered new strut mount bearings, but is there anything else that could be the problem? I checked the ball joints and the tie rod ends and they're fine.... no cracks in the boot or anything. I just want to make sure I'm not wasting my time replacing the bearing if it's something else. Oh, and new adjustable end-links are on there too, so.... not the end-links. Pics when I get it all fixed... hopefully this weekend.


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## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

Its most likely the upper strut mount and not the bearing. It is good measure to replace both. The OEM ones are very common to start clunking with aftermarket suspension. Ive read good reviews on the 034 and i got the TT mounts which are denser. Havent had any problems yet but only have about 5k on them. I got them off ecs.

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2627431/

Also no increase in nvh with these


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

louiekaps said:


> Its most likely the upper strut mount and not the bearing. It is good measure to replace both. The OEM ones are very common to start clunking with aftermarket suspension. Ive read good reviews on the 034 and i got the TT mounts which are denser. Havent had any problems yet but only have about 5k on them. I got them off ecs.
> 
> http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2627431/
> 
> Also no increase in nvh with these


Yeah... I forgot to mention I did add the 034 mounts.... so I'm fairly certain it's the bearing. I really don't want to take the struts out again; it's such a PITA.


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## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

Yeah thats why coilovers rock! You spin them all the way down and you dont even have to push down on the knuckle, it just falls off the strut lol. Soooooo much easier


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

npace said:


> So, I just put new bilstein sport struts in the front, and they are nice. But.... I decided to re-use the strut mount bearings that were already on there. Now, I have this terrible thunk coming from the driver's side... and it sounds like the shock tower is the source of the sound to me. Happens every time I hit any kind of bump in the road, and it doesn't matter if I'm turning or going straight. I went ahead and ordered new strut mount bearings, but is there anything else that could be the problem? I checked the ball joints and the tie rod ends and they're fine.... no cracks in the boot or anything. I just want to make sure I'm not wasting my time replacing the bearing if it's something else. Oh, and new adjustable end-links are on there too, so.... not the end-links. Pics when I get it all fixed... hopefully this weekend.


one more thing to check is the FSB bushings at the subframe. good luck hope you find it.


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## A3owner (Dec 31, 2013)

This thread made me order new strut mounts before my install of H&R Spring and Bilstiens.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

A3owner said:


> This thread made me order new strut mounts before my install of H&R Spring and Bilstiens.


Yeah... it's a good idea, but just so you're tracking, it isn't the mounts; I did those at the same time as the struts. I'm 95% sure it's the bearing, which is sold separately from the mount. I re-used the bearings and mounts when I installed the springs last year with no issues, so I assumed I could do the same thing with the bearings this time; I only replaced the mounts for the added stiffness. The bearings are relatively cheap; you can get them for $8 - $10 each. FWIW, I didn't replace them because I didn't think they would be worn out at 16k miles, not because I was cheaping out on a $10 part. In retrospect, I wish I would've replaced them for GP, then I wouldn't have this issue. 

*Does anyone know if I can still drive around, or will I cause serious damage that way?* If the bearings come in by Friday, I'll be installing on Saturday, otherwise it'll have to wait until next weekend.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> Yeah... it's a good idea, but just so you're tracking, it isn't the mounts; I did those at the same time as the struts. I'm 95% sure it's the bearing, which is sold separately from the mount. I re-used the bearings and mounts when I installed the springs last year with no issues, so I assumed I could do the same thing with the bearings this time; I only replaced the mounts for the added stiffness. The bearings are relatively cheap; you can get them for $8 - $10 each. FWIW, I didn't replace them because I didn't think they would be worn out at 16k miles, not because I was cheaping out on a $10 part. In retrospect, I wish I would've replaced them for GP, then I wouldn't have this issue.
> 
> *Does anyone know if I can still drive around, or will I cause serious damage that way?* If the bearings come in by Friday, I'll be installing on Saturday, otherwise it'll have to wait until next weekend.


I don't think it's the bearings. Bearings would make more of a crunching noise when turning the wheel. 

My guess would be a loose top shock nut (did you do it by hand using a counter hold tool?) or even the jam nut on the adjustable end links not being properly tightened. This is assuming that all other bolts are appropriately tightened.

Dave


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## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

I guess also double check that the strut mount bolts are tight and then also make sure the spring is indexed corrected on the strut. It could also be a faulty strut mount or even the strut. You can always get screwed with a dud. Good luck man


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Well, I'm still going to have to wait until Saturday in any event. But I'm assuming it's okay for me to drive the 8 miles round-trip from home to work and back for the next two days. I'll keep you all posted on what comes out of this.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

I'm starting to think that the strut mount bearing is not alligned on the spring properly, which could be part of a tightening issue that Dave alluded to. I did use the counter hold tool, and now its only making the knocking sound on some bumps, but not others, like if the spring isn't fully seated. I went ahead and ordered new mount bearings anyway, but whether I get them today or not, I'm going to take the strut out again tomorrow, remove the mount and bearing, inspect, and re-install. The thing that sucks is the garage I use isn't open on Sunday, and it's still my daily, so I need the car to be up again on Monday. There is a very real possibility that if I don't get the strut mount bearing today, that this will be going on for another week before I can solve it. :banghead: :facepalm:

Update and pics tomorrow after I get to the bottom (or top, I guess?) of the issue.


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## A3owner (Dec 31, 2013)

I ordered this kit from ECS.

ECS Upgraded Front Strut Mount Kit
Kit includes :
(2) Front Upper Strut Mounts from the Audi TT
(2) Front Upper Strut Bearings
(2) Upper Strut Nuts
(6) Strut mount bolts

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2627431/

That should give me piece of mind.


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## Scuba*A3 (Feb 2, 2013)

Yeah I had the this same problem when I installed my PSS10. I took the struts out like a dozen times trying to isolate the problem, and even removed the sway bar end links to see if that was it (it was not). For me...with the car on the ground, if I bounced the drivers front side of the car up & down near the struts I could hear the klunk. I installed the 034 mounts and new bearings and it still did not help. Even took it the dealership to see I "missed" anything. They could not find it either. 

Ultimately I installed a new strut top mount nut and torqued it down to the proper setting and then I talked with a Bilstien engineer about it. Apparently, I had set the coils to low on the car and that was causing the coil springs to bind which in turn was causing the klunking noise. After he explained where I should be taking my height measurements from and what the adjustment range was for the PSS10, I set my ride height to the lowest setting within the range (+ 1/2 mm for good measure), my clunking noise has not returned.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

I hate to break this to those of you that bought the TT mounts, but watch this video. It looks like they are no stiffer than the strut mounts we have, making the 034 mounts the only option if you want added stiffness. Also.... post 200 in this thread!


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## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

In the thread i read the tt mounts from ecs where around 60 durometer. The mounts i got were in a bilstein box unlike what he shows in that video. I didnt test them personally but what he tested was a different mount from what i got. When i got them i was actuallu suprised that it was a bilstein mount instead of something stamped vw audi.


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

louiekaps said:


> In the thread i read the tt mounts from ecs where around 60 durometer. The mounts i got were in a bilstein box unlike what he shows in that video. I didnt test them personally but what he tested was a different mount from what i got. When i got them i was actuallu suprised that it was a bilstein mount instead of something stamped vw audi.


when I got my 034 mounts, i put them in a vice, mounted a strut and nut to see how much you could wiggle the strut around, and did the same with the oem a3 mounts. 034 were very stiff. a3 oem you could almost pop the metal cup out if you bent the strut over. 

you could try doing the same comparo with your tt mounts vs oem a3.

my 034 mounts are nice and snappy in turn in. you do feel more of the road, and pot hole hits are nasty. thats the trade off.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

SilverSquirrel said:


> when I got my 034 mounts, i put them in a vice, mounted a strut and nut to see how much you could wiggle the strut around, and did the same with the oem a3 mounts. 034 were very stiff. a3 oem you could almost pop the metal cup out if you bent the strut over.
> 
> you could try doing the same comparo with your tt mounts vs oem a3.
> 
> my 034 mounts are nice and snappy in turn in. you do feel more of the road, and pot hole hits are nasty. thats the trade off.


I don't have TT mounts... the video I posted was just something I found that might be interesting. The 034 mounts are great, and I agree with the snappy turn in comment. 

I just got back from fixing the strut issue. I still can't say with 100% certainty what the problem was, because I pulled the strut and checked it over completely. It didn't seem to be loose or anything, and the spring was seated on the bearing just fine. I went ahead and removed the mount, bearing and spring for safe measure, cleaned everything up again, and re-installed, being more careful to watch how the spring seated on the bearing. Then, I torqued the s**t out of the nut, and when I was satisfied that it was on there good, I re-installed. Before moving on to the rear, I went ahead and took it for a spin to be sure. Clunking noise is gone. :thumbup:

I also got the rear shocks installed, and the car handles better than I expected. FWIW, the ride quality is much nicer than I expected as well. I thought it would be rough, and even downright jarring at times, which I was willing to accept. Make no mistake, it is harsher than stock, but not by the margin I expected, and IMO, with the increase in handling capability and response, it's worth it. 

I also got the bracket and bushing pressed off of the passat control arms. I was looking to install them with the ball joints, but took a look at the front inner mount and saw how long the bolt is, and how close the transmission is, and decided to call it for the day. *Does anyone know which bolt(s) need to be removed from the subframe to lower it enough for that bolt to clear? Is it just the one directly above the center of the control arm, or is there another one I need to remove?* 

I probably can figure it out, but I didn't have the tyrolsport subframe deadset kit with me and figured if I was going to the trouble I should do them both at once and be done with it, rather than having to mess with it twice. 

Still left on suspension (in addition to the above) are the rear sway bar and adjustable end links, then I'll be done for a while; well at least with the suspension. Pics still coming.... I need to go through them and get them uploaded.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Bump for an answer to the above in bold? Probably won't get to it until next weekend, but I'm curious if anyone has replaced the control arms, and if so what they did about the transmission sitting in the way. Thanks :beer:


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

I'm not exactly sure what you mean about the bolts. Maybe I missed something earlier. Did you get something other than a new A3 bolt? 

Glad to hear that the Bilstein dampers are happy on the car and vice versa.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

JRutter said:


> I'm not exactly sure what you mean about the bolts. Maybe I missed something earlier. Did you get something other than a new A3 bolt?
> 
> Glad to hear that the Bilstein dampers are happy on the car and vice versa.


I'm going to try to explain what I mean... hopefully it makes sense. For the front lower control arm mount, the transmission is in the way, and there is not enough room to get the bolt out from where it mounts directly to the subframe (not at the bracket point). So I was asking if the bolt located at #1 in the pic below is removed, will that allow me to lower the subframe enough to remove that bolt and get the control arm out, or is there another bolt somewhere that I'm not seeing?










I stole the pic from HYDE16... but anyway, you can kind of see what I'm talking about in the pic, except the pic is of a FWD GTI with manual transmission, which has more clearance than the DSG. 

But yeah, the Bilsteins are quite nice.


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

Oh, gotcha. I believe that the entire subframe needs to come down.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Yeah, that's what I was afraid of. I don't have all of the stretch bolts, so it looks like I'll be putting in another order soon. If anyone has the part number, I would appreciate it. It's # 1 and # 6 in the diagram... which should both be the same. Also need the part number for the front lower control arm bolt. Thanks in advance.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Kind of a small update, with big stuff in the works.

I'm still waiting on subframe stretch bolts to come in. Glad I started on all the suspension stuff before track season really hits. I also found out last week that I'm gonna be in Europe for another year; thank you Ukraine. That gives me more time to order more stuff and install before the car gets shipped and play here. So, I just ordered these guys:










It seems gruvenparts is finally hooking up TSI owners with a lightweight alternator pulley and tensioner. If only fluidampr would do the same....

I also got my 4-spoke wheel with paddle shifters in. Got the airbag off the old one, looked, and realized I have the wrong airbag harness. :banghead:

So I ordered one. When it comes in, I'll do a full write-up, but the bottom line is for anyone doing the retrofit on a 2009-up (facelift) 8P with DSG, and looking to re-use the stock airbag, you need to verify the correct steering control module in VAG-COM, get a steering wheel that will fit, _*and*_ get the appropriate wire harness. 99% of facelift models use the same steering control module which will support the MFSW, however, I've read about 2 instances in which people had some NOS stuff Audi installed... it must've been sitting on a shelf somewhere. 

When I saw the lack of support for MFSW on my airbag, my heart sank until I did a *TON* of research to find out what would fit / work. It's still a gamble, but the harness is on it's way, so it should go on next weekend, fingers crossed it gets here by then.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Not build related but thought I'd share here instead of posting a new thread in the car lounge or something. 
I think the woman that works at the Thai place down the street likes me. The green curry meal I usually get has progressively gotten hotter over the last three times I've been there. I haven't said anything yet, but next time I may have to tell her to tone it down a bit. My mouth has been on fire for the past 20 minutes. That is all.


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## REvolution01 (Feb 17, 2012)

npace said:


> Not build related but thought I'd share here instead of posting a new thread in the car lounge or something.
> I think the woman that works at the Thai place down the street likes me. The green curry meal I usually get has progressively gotten hotter over the last three times I've been there. I haven't said anything yet, but next time I may have to tell her to tone it down a bit. My mouth has been on fire for the past 20 minutes. That is all.


OooooOOOooo 

npace and thai lady sitting in a tree K - I - S - S - I - N - G!

First comes capsaicin

Then comes rum

Then comes npace ranting on the forums becuase his hot thai place woman caused CEL's on his precious car

That's not all, that's not all

Now npace cant function without a bit of alcohol



She justs wants the D.... ollar


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

lol.
When I said likes me, that's what I meant.... as in I buy food there all the time. 
But I do like the tip cup.


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## cc6mt (Dec 13, 2013)

Nice build :thumbup:, I'm starting with suspension upgrade as well but these stretch bolt are a joke, never had to worry about these thing with jdm (Mazda/infinity) , one time use does make you prepare well before you do anything.

do you know how eibach pro kit springs stack up to DG springs in performance ? 

I'm assuming you got bilstein b8s or hd ? any comment on either one ...

def. keeping an eye on this thread for more suggestions opcorn:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

cc6mt said:


> Nice build :thumbup:, I'm starting with suspension upgrade as well but these stretch bolt are a joke, never had to worry about these thing with jdm (Mazda/infinity) , one time use does make you prepare well before you do anything.
> 
> do you know how eibach pro kit springs stack up to DG springs in performance ?
> 
> ...



I have no idea about the eibach or dg springs. The VWR springs are supposed to be similar to the DG, but they are linear, whereas IIRC, the DG springs are progressive (someone will correct me on that if I'm wrong). 

The shocks are the bilstein B8s. Ride is definitely rougher than stock, but I was worried it was going to be harsh, and it's really not bad. I haven't had any complaints from the wife, and she would nag me about it for sure if she thought the ride was uncomfortable. 

Also, with the reverse rake look on the rear when using lowering springs --- the rear bilstein b8s are a little longer than the stock ones, so that whole thing is eliminated. Coupled with the tt pads, its a non-issue.

I'm still waiting on my wiring harness for the steering wheel. Looking forward to getting the paddle shift retrofit done and the writeup on here.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Got the harness for the MFSW in today... giddy with excitement.



















Didn't even bother with vortex or dinner or the wife. Came home, got the camera, and did the install.









Full DIY here:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6944895-DIY-Full-MFSW-with-Paddle-Shift-Retrofit

The click click of the paddle when driving is so satisfying. Here's a pic with it on the car. 











It doesn't look like much, but I can't explain how excited it makes me, mostly because it has completely changed my driving experience. I know those of you who already have MFSW and paddle shift are like "what's the big deal?" but seriously, drive a DSG car without it for a while, and then go back to it. It's a completely different experience. I don't know how else to describe it.

More to come....


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

:sigh:

It's always something. Yesterday I was super excited about getting the new wheel with paddles installed. Today.... issues with front suspension (I think). Car rubs when turning left, _*only*_ when at full lock. No idea what it is, but I'm not thrilled about it. Probably won't be able to get it up and take a look until Thursday afternoon, but if anyone has ideas, I'd like to hear them. 


:banghead:


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> :sigh:
> 
> It's always something. Yesterday I was super excited about getting the new wheel with paddles installed. Today.... issues with front suspension (I think). Car rubs when turning left, _*only*_ when at full lock. No idea what it is, but I'm not thrilled about it. Probably won't be able to get it up and take a look until Thursday afternoon, but if anyone has ideas, I'd like to hear them.
> 
> ...


What size wheel / tire package are you running? It's not uncommon to have rubbing at full lock with a moderately aggressive wheel offset and/or tire size.

Dave


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

I'm still on stock tires and wheels, and this is the first time it's happened since the strut install about 4-5 weeks ago. I'm thinking something may have come loose. A preliminary "once over" hasn't produced any results, but I haven't been under the car yet.

Edit: When I say stock, I mean tires are 225/45/17, wheels are 17x7.5 stock wheels that came on the car.


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## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

Im quite a bit lower than you and i rub the fender liners at full lock. For me its just barely rubbing runber to plastic so really no issue at all. Im on the same wheel/tire size. For me it doesnt happen everytime but most of the time. I wouldnt worry about it imho.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

louiekaps said:


> Im quite a bit lower than you and i rub the fender liners at full lock. For me its just barely rubbing runber to plastic so really no issue at all. Im on the same wheel/tire size. For me it doesnt happen everytime but most of the time. I wouldnt worry about it imho.


What does it sound / feel like though? This is actually a loud rubbing / grinding noise and I can feel vibration under the dead pedal. It definitely isn't right.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> What does it sound / feel like though? This is actually a loud rubbing / grinding noise and I can feel vibration under the dead pedal. It definitely isn't right.


Sure your CV joint is ok? Just wondering because I had a similar issue on the driver side only and it ended up being a bad inner CV.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

crew219 said:


> Sure your CV joint is ok? Just wondering because I had a similar issue on the driver side only and it ended up being a bad inner CV.


Could be. Car is still less than 20,000 miles, though. How did you confirm it was the CV? Just get under it, put the wheel at full lock, and shake the axle around?


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Well, it definitely isn't a tire rubbing on the liner. Got up a little early and checked it out before work. Lock to lock, there's plenty of clearance. And the sound is only audible on the driver's side, when the wheel is fully locked to the left. I still plan on getting under it tomorrow to check it out. 

Dave, how exactly did you check / verify that it was a bad CV joint? Also, what did you replace with? Stock? Raxles? Thanks.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Bump for an answer? Now I'm leaning toward it being the axle or the wheel bearing. I contacted raxles for a quote. I know they make a good set, but it ain't cheap! I hope it's something simple (I'll have it on the lift tomorrow), but if not, at least I know raxles are guaranteed for life.


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## mattA3 (Feb 24, 2010)

Are you lowered more then 2"? Could be sway bar end link hitting the axle. I don't have any experience with this but I have heard it to be a problem on lowered MK5's.


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## Worthlessbackup (Apr 10, 2013)

npace said:


> What does it sound / feel like though? This is actually a loud rubbing / grinding noise and I can feel vibration under the dead pedal. It definitely isn't right.


Definitely sounds like a CV joint. I would just buy a stock one. You're not super low or putting a crap load of power through the axle. I think raxles are for lowered or power applications. 

Shaking the axle won't do much. Typically grinding noises when turning or clunking are your best indications.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

mattA3 said:


> Are you lowered more then 2"? Could be sway bar end link hitting the axle. I don't have any experience with this but I have heard it to be a problem on lowered MK5's.


Well, had the car on a lift, and this was it. When turning left, locked out, the axle was rubbing the sway bar. I think it had more to do with the adjustable end links, as all it took was to lengthen them a bit. It's worth noting, however, that it was similar to a bearing in that it sounded to me like it was coming from the driver's side, but it was actually the passenger side. 



Worthlessbackup said:


> Definitely sounds like a CV joint. I would just buy a stock one. You're not super low or putting a crap load of power through the axle. I think raxles are for lowered or power applications.
> 
> Shaking the axle won't do much. Typically grinding noises when turning or clunking are your best indications.


Well, shaking it _should_ give an indication of play in the joints, but that wasn't the issue anyway. As for the power comment, I think 360 awhp is pretty powerful for these cars, but it's worth noting that raxles are at the same price point as OEM (give or take a few dollars) and they have two variants; an OEM application and a race application. The OEM application is what I would've gone with, as they are plenty sturdy, have hardened joints, and a lifetime warranty. 

In any event, I was definitely leaning toward it being an axle; and in a way, it kind of was. Thankfully there was a simple, free solution to the problem.


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## Worthlessbackup (Apr 10, 2013)

npace said:


> Well, had the car on a lift, and this was it. When turning left, locked out, the axle was rubbing the sway bar. I think it had more to do with the adjustable end links, as all it took was to lengthen them a bit. It's worth noting, however, that it was similar to a bearing in that it sounded to me like it was coming from the driver's side, but it was actually the passenger side.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm glad you found a solution :thumbup:

I haven't read the whole thread, so I wasn't aware of how much power you're putting down. For your application I'd agree with getting a raxles half-shaft


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Worthlessbackup said:


> I'm glad you found a solution :thumbup:
> 
> I haven't read the whole thread, so I wasn't aware of how much power you're putting down. For your application I'd agree with getting a raxles half-shaft


It's all good. The OEM axles are supposed to be quite good. I'm gonna keep 'em until they wear out, at which point I probably will go with raxles. In the mean time, it's money I can spend on other goodies. My next purchase for sure is gonna be wheels. I just need to save for about another month or two to get the ones I want.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*Another APR Rant*

So, I have been having an issue with _very_ minor oil leaks on the turbo oil inlet and return lines. I contacted APR 4 days ago to ask about purchasing a set of those lines as a replacement. Now, according to APR's website, their oil and coolant lines "provide years of leak free operation". I have been stage three for less than one year. I'm not asking for something free, either, mind you. I want to buy the lines, but I still don't have a response. Dave's had his car there for over 200 days, and now can't get a response, and he's been their biggest defender on this side of the forum. So, I'm going to get the following items, and hopefully fix this issue for good. If anyone knows of any problems with these, or has recommendations for alternates, I would appreciate it.

From ATP Turbo:
- -4 Size oil inlet fitting, P/N ATP-OIL-021
- Gasket, for Drain Flange, P/N GRT-GSK-008
- Banjo 12mm -4AN Male, P/N ATP-FTG-018
- Banjo Bolt - 12mm x 1.5 with 2 crush washers, P/N ATP-FTG-019
- -4 size Oil inlet fitting, P/N ATP-FTG-029
- Oil Return Flange with integrated -10 Flare, P/N ATP-FLA-019

From Summit Racing: 
- Hose End, 90 Degree, -4 AN Hose to Female -4 AN, P/N SUM-220487B
- Hose End, Straight, -4 AN Hose to Female -4 AN, P/N SUM-220490B
- Hose, Braided Stainless Steel, -4 AN, P/N SUM-230403
- Hose, Braided Stainless Steel, -10 AN, P/N SUM-230006
- Fitting, Hose End, Straight, -10 AN Hose to Female -10 AN, P/N SUM-220090B

The return inlet to the oil sump is good so this should be it. Again, if anyone knows of any issues with this stuff, please let me know. Also, I put both turbo inlet fittings on here because I need to look at the one that's on there now... not sure if it's restricted or unrestricted. 

Lastly, on the oil inlet fitting, do I just screw it in, or should I add some blue loctite or mil-spec pipe thread or something? I want to make sure this sucka really does "provide years of leak free operation".

Edit: So to be fair to APR, they did back to me today, with more questions. I got back to them, so we'll see what happens.


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## Greddy87 (Oct 21, 2010)

npace said:


> What does it sound / feel like though? This is actually a loud rubbing / grinding noise and I can feel vibration under the dead pedal. It definitely isn't right.


Check your intake, it might be sending vibrations to your brake reservoir line & sends the vibrations to the floor.. For me I felt it under the gas peddle.. It happened to me with my Forge TwinTake.. To fix it I added a rubber hose to the line & some foam to cushion it, def worked..


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Greddy87 said:


> Check your intake, it might be sending vibrations to your brake reservoir line & sends the vibrations to the floor.. For me I felt it under the gas peddle.. It happened to me with my Forge TwinTake.. To fix it I added a rubber hose to the line & some foam to cushion it, def worked..


Thanks.... but I already fixed the issue. It was the front sway bar rubbing on the axle when compressed.

Now I need to know if the above will work on the turbo inlet / outlet (it *should*)


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## Worthlessbackup (Apr 10, 2013)

If that oil inlet fitting is a flare fitting, putting sealant on the threads won't do much but lubricate the threads. 

Sent from my LT30at using Tapatalk


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Worthlessbackup said:


> If that oil inlet fitting is a flare fitting, putting sealant on the threads won't do much but lubricate the threads.
> 
> Sent from my LT30at using Tapatalk


I don't think so. This is what it looks like:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

So APR won't sell me the lines. Their response is to go to an APR dealer, and maybe they can help. 

I'm trying to purchase them, mind you, not get something for free that, according to APR, will provide years of leak-free operation. This also goes back to my issue with their refusal to use multiple shipping methods. Granted, its their choice, but it's just plain ridiculous. Thier reasoning is that "We're too big and automated to change / use something else". Really? So Amazon, who ships and has numerous partners that they also use, can get everything shipped out to virtually anywhere that the customer wants, but you're too big and it's too complicated for that? 

In any event, it looks like I will be going with the above lines and fittings, unless anyone sees a reason not to.


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## Worthlessbackup (Apr 10, 2013)

I'm sorry to hear about that ****ty customer service. Their product doesn't come with a warranty? Where exactly are these lines leaking? Where the fitting is crimped onto the hose? 

That fitting you showed us is a 37° flare fitting. That means the sealing surface is metal on metal, and thread sealant should only be used if you are joining dissimilar metals (to prevent corrosion, galling, etc.). Using thread sealant otherwise has no effect. It's hard to say if those products will work for you without being there is person. Have you searched for a hydraulic fittings store near you? Id go there in person and see if they can help. 

Sent from my LT30at using Tapatalk


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> *So APR won't sell me the lines. Their response is to go to an APR dealer, and maybe they can help.*
> 
> I'm trying to purchase them, mind you, not get something for free that, according to APR, will provide years of leak-free operation. This also goes back to my issue with their refusal to use multiple shipping methods. Granted, its their choice, but it's just plain ridiculous. Thier reasoning is that "We're too big and automated to change / use something else". Really? So Amazon, who ships and has numerous partners that they also use, can get everything shipped out to virtually anywhere that the customer wants, but you're too big and it's too complicated for that?
> 
> In any event, it looks like I will be going with the above lines and fittings, unless anyone sees a reason not to.


That is ridiculous. I'll contact some people there. Clearly they're not thinking about what bad press it would create when the oil ignites and creates an engine bay fire. Who were you dealing with?


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## [email protected] (Nov 8, 2010)

npace said:


> So APR won't sell me the lines. Their response is to go to an APR dealer, and maybe they can help.
> 
> I'm trying to purchase them, mind you, not get something for free that, according to APR, will provide years of leak-free operation. This also goes back to my issue with their refusal to use multiple shipping methods. Granted, its their choice, but it's just plain ridiculous. Thier reasoning is that "We're too big and automated to change / use something else". Really? So Amazon, who ships and has numerous partners that they also use, can get everything shipped out to virtually anywhere that the customer wants, but you're too big and it's too complicated for that?
> 
> In any event, it looks like I will be going with the above lines and fittings, unless anyone sees a reason not to.


This is ridiculous. I'm sorry. I'm working internally to get this sorted for you. Please bear with and thank you for your patience and understanding.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> This is ridiculous. I'm sorry. I'm working internally to get this sorted for you. Please bear with and thank you for your patience and understanding.



Thanks for the response. I replied to your PM via email, with some more background and details. The basic issue is that the closest APR dealer (2 hrs each way) appears to be going out of business for personal reasons. If, for some reason, I can't get the APR lines, some simple information about torque specs and inlet restrictor size would really help.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Well, an update on the oil lines. Thanks go out to Evan at APR, he definitely went above and beyond to try and get it sorted out. All is good with them again in my book. Unfortunately, it looks as though I will not be getting replacement lines from them after all, but only because of the price point. That isn't a complaint... their oil lines are really very well made, and probably fabricated in house, and expensive to make, but I just don't have the scrap to pay what they cost. The leak was not a result of a problem with APRs product, but had to do with the install, which again is why I was willing to pay for the lines. I've sourced a pretty solid set of hose and fittings, so I should have this sorted out whenever it all gets here, probably within 2-3 weeks.


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## easthk (Oct 10, 2004)

I just installed these TT control arm bushings. Nice upgrade, thanks for tip on vendor. Steering feels a little heavier and more planted. Less play in the steering. Did these along with VWR subframe mount and put back together with Tyrol subframe collar kit. Feels good, not much vibration- very slight at idle. Definitely happier with the steering feel.



npace said:


> Got a nice little package from the UK today:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

So, I finally got around to uploading some pics and installing the rest of the front suspension components yesterday (almost  ). 
Here's some pics of the Bilstein B8 struts with VWR springs and adjustable end links on the front:



















You can't see them, but I also installed the 034 Motorsport strut mounts with these. As a total package, this has turned out great. The bilsteins have definitely improved the handling, and there has only been minimal sacrifice to ride comfort, which can be attributed to the total combination, not any one component. 

Here you can see where the front sway bar was grinding against the axle. The angle of the pic makes it look like it was the end link, but trust me, it was definitely the sway bar. For some reason, the front sway bar on the passenger side is much closer to the axle than on the driver's side. 










Lengthening the endlink fixed this pretty easily. 

Putting in new aluminum control arms was actually one of the more difficult things I've had to do. I went with OEM Passat control arms; Part number 3C0407151KT. These appear to be the same as the superpro ones that are popular lately, and can be found for $100 less, although they aren't polished like the superpro ones. The reason it was so difficult is this:










The DSG transmission sits directly in the way of the front bolt where the lower control arm bolts into the subframe. I ended up placing an engine jack stand under the transmission, (you can kind of see it in the pic) and lowering the lift a little to compress the transmission mount and give me some room. Then, with subframe bolts removed, used a pry bar and had someone very gently pry down on the subframe to provide just enough space to get it out. Not sure how others are doing this, but that was my method. 

Pressing the stock bracket with new TT bushing onto the new control arm:










Here's a shot of the Passat control arm, with the stock bracket, pressed into the solid TT bushing:










Not the best pic, but here it is installed:










I also took the opportunity to install the tyrolsport subframe collars while I was at it. Not sure if that made any improvement, but it's there now. All of the old stretch bolts were replaced with new hardware as well. 

The other thing was that when I removed bolts on the passenger side, I got this:










That's oil buildup from the top of the subframe; a direct result of the slow leaks coming off of the turbo lines I reported earlier.

Here's a pic of what that bolt looked like:










Covered in goopy dirt and oil. Needless to say, I was not happy, and wasted about a half an hour cleaning and getting in the top of the subframe the best I could. 

At this point, I pretty much ran out of time to install the ball joints, which should be the easiest part of this. Once complete, that will finish my plans for the front suspension. I still may end up switching to passat aluminum spindles as well, but I'm not planning on it right now. 

Recently, a VCDS scan also informed me that I had a readiness fault under emissions. No CEL or anything, but I wanted to take care of it. I looked for the 42dd spacer, but it appears as though they are no longer making it, as they aren't selling it, and the other VW/Audi specialty places that "carry" it who I contacted don't have it in stock. So I ordered a straight one from amazon for like $6. While I was under the car, I went ahead and installed it; only took a few minutes. 

The first thing was to spray some PB blaster onto the threaded area of the O2 sensor; The constant heating and cooling tends to get these things a little stuck:










I put a little permatex anti-seize on the threaded portion of the spacer, and the sensor, being very careful not to foul the sensor itself










Then, put it all back together:










It really was that easy, and as you can see, there was plenty of room for the straight spacer, so saving about $34 on not getting the 42dd one was a pretty good thing in this case. 

That's it for now. A big update, but there's more on the way. I still have the ball joints, plus a few items on the rear suspension, before I move on to some other things that need to be addressed. Thanks for reading.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Got these in the mail today.....










Now just waiting on the -AN fittings and braided hose from summit so I can fix the oil leaks. 

BTW, can I just put a copper crush washer between the oil inlet fitting and the turbo? It seems like it would work, but I'm not sure if this is recommended? Has anyone else done this? For reference, it's a GT28 series turbo, and the fitting I'm talking about is the red one in the pic below.










Also, is there a DIY around here for installing new spindles? I'm thinking about switching to the aluminum passat ones, not sure about the difficulty though. JRutter, if you're reading this, I already looked through your ohlins thread. No DIY though. 

If anyone can answer any of these questions, I'd really appreciate it.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Bump for an answer to any of the above....


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*Finally got around to some stuff*

I had a lot of these parts sitting around for a while. The first thing I did was pretty much finish the suspension; new H&R sway bar and 034 motorsport spherical rear end links:



















Obviously, I drove around on them a bit before the pics were taken, but you get the idea. 

I was also due an oil change, so while I was at it, I upgraded to a magnetic drain plug. Not the most exciting or difficult update, but it should help keep the engine nice and clean. 










Then, I finally got around to finishing the brake setup. First, some parts pic whoring:










The shims from the boxster S are a nice addition to the boxster brake upgrde, if anyone is planning on doing it:
















The rest of the stuff I used to install these calipers:

Apikol Brakets:









Proper banjo bolts and bracket / carrier bolts:









Silicone lube and the all-important brake fluid:

















And the power bleeder, without which life would be more difficult:









Parts minus bleeder... total "kit":









Caliper installed, with necessary spacers. I figured since I needed spacers to make these fit, I might as well do a stud conversion. Later, when I do finally get new wheels, I can just buy the required nuts, instead of another new set of lug bolts. 










Also, when installing these brakes, a couple of things. When I first bled the brakes, and thought I was finished, the pedal was super squishy, like it went all the way to the floor. Okay, no problem, so I bled them again. Then, still had the same issue, and the shop was closing, so I had to drive home like that, which was a little scary. The next day, I went back and bled the brakes again. Some small air bubbles came out this time, but not much; and not what I expected for how soft the pedal was. The pedal was still super soft, so I was worried. On the advice of one of the guys at the shop, I went ahead and followed the brake pad bed-in procedure, which increased firmness to about what it was before I replaced the calipers. Better, but not what I wanted. Since then, I've found two things about this brake setup:
1. The pads have to get hot and cold several times over a few days to increase firmness. Pad bed-in helps, but I'm on the third day since initial install, and the pedal feel is still getting firmer. 
2. Pedal feel is directly related to how hard I press the brakes now. So when I just do my daily commute, the pedal feels pretty much like it did before. However, if I press it really hard, the pedal is really hard... there is a direct correlation between how hard I press the pedal and how firm it feels. This was not the case with the stock brakes. 
This is important for anyone doing this upgrade to understand, IMO. The car stops significantly better when I want it to, but still behaves like a daily for commuting around. That's kind of the best way I can explain it. If anyone has experienced this, or something similar, please let me know, if nothing else I'm interested if it's unique to this setup and pads, or if it's common when going to a stronger caliper. FWIW, I used stoptech pads.


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## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

Im running stoptech pads on stock brakes and they act similarly. Normal braking feels like the oem pads but when really on the brakes they bite much harder. Pedal feel hasnt changed for me besides the biting point but thats expected when going from worn pads to brand new. So far im very happy with the stoptech pads on stock brakes and if i do go bbk(probably the same route you took) i will choose them again.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

While we're on the topic of brakes, does anyone know what OEM master cylinder upgrades, if any, are a direct swap? I have a line on a new S4 one for $80, which seems like a good deal, but I'm not sure if it's a direct fit. It appears to be, but there are other parts that look like they'll fit and then don't. Don't make me start a new thread, I swear, I'll pull a tp and do it!


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> While we're on the topic of brakes, does anyone know what OEM master cylinder upgrades, if any, are a direct swap? I have a line on a new S4 one for $80, which seems like a good deal, but I'm not sure if it's a direct fit. It appears to be, but there are other parts that look like they'll fit and then don't. Don't make me start a new thread, I swear, I'll pull a tp and do it!


You want one from a TT-RS.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

crew219 said:


> You want one from a TT-RS.


And it's a direct swap, right? No other parts needed?


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## SoSoA3 (Sep 10, 2012)

Great build! How much did you spend on the front brembo setup total? I wanted to compare between the price of these stoptech's vs the brembo retrofit. I had the same stoptech kit on my RSX and I really liked it as it was a complete bolt on kit where brake bias wasn't affected as the inner pistons of the caliper were sized to match the stock setup.

http://shop.achtuning.com/StopTech-82-893-5N00-328mm-ST-41-Front-Big-Brake-Kit-Audi-8P-A3-20T-FWD.aspx

Also were did you get the adjustable end links from? I'm having the same problem with the sway hitting the axle but sway is hitting my drivers side not my passenger side...weird huh? :screwy:


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> And it's a direct swap, right? No other parts needed?


Yes, saw a RS3 bodykitted A3 with one this weekend. He converted the front brakes to the TT-RS setup.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

SoSoA3 said:


> Great build! How much did you spend on the front brembo setup total? I wanted to compare between the price of these stoptech's vs the brembo retrofit. I had the same stoptech kit on my RSX and I really liked it as it was a complete bolt on kit where brake bias wasn't affected as the inner pistons of the caliper were sized to match the stock setup.
> 
> http://shop.achtuning.com/StopTech-82-893-5N00-328mm-ST-41-Front-Big-Brake-Kit-Audi-8P-A3-20T-FWD.aspx
> 
> Also were did you get the adjustable end links from? I'm having the same problem with the sway hitting the axle but sway is hitting my drivers side not my passenger side...weird huh? :screwy:


Thanks. I don't remember exactly what I spent, but I got the calipers, pads, brackets, mounting bolts, and banjo bolts for less than $600. AFAIK, the brackets have to be purchased from Apikol unless you machine them yourself; they're the only company I know of that makes them. They will also sell the appropriate banjo bolts and caliper bolts if needed, all told somewhere in the neighborhood of $250. I spent more on the apikol stuff than the calipers; you can find those from porsche guys who are upgrading. I got mine for $240 plus shipping. Then its a question of stainless steel lines and rotors. I upgraded to better pads, lines, and rotors previously, but there's really no need to change from the stock rotor, IMO. The calipers, pads, and apikol setup with some ss lines are good enough, plus some decent DOT 4 fluid. 
As far as the stoptech kit goes, I was planning on getting that originally, but they wouldn't fit with my 17" wheels, and I didn't want to get 18s, based on the template they make for a fitment check. I know, most people go that way, but I like smaller wheels. I would cram 16s on there if I could. The endlinks are one-offs.... I got a set of endlink joints and cut and threaded some 1/2" diameter pipe to fit them. If I could do it over again, I would get the 034 ones, because the rear ones I got from them have a much wider range of articulation, and the joints were based on the whiteline design.... in fact they're probably an exact copy. I'll probably end up getting those anyway, and just finding some rubber boots to throw over them.


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## SoSoA3 (Sep 10, 2012)

npace said:


> Thanks. I don't remember exactly what I spent, but I got the calipers, pads, brackets, mounting bolts, and banjo bolts for less than $600. AFAIK, the brackets have to be purchased from Apikol unless you machine them yourself; they're the only company I know of that makes them. They will also sell the appropriate banjo bolts and caliper bolts if needed, all told somewhere in the neighborhood of $250. I spent more on the apikol stuff than the calipers; you can find those from porsche guys who are upgrading. I got mine for $240 plus shipping. Then its a question of stainless steel lines and rotors. I upgraded to better pads, lines, and rotors previously, but there's really no need to change from the stock rotor, IMO. The calipers, pads, and apikol setup with some ss lines are good enough, plus some decent DOT 4 fluid.
> As far as the stoptech kit goes, I was planning on getting that originally, but they wouldn't fit with my 17" wheels, and I didn't want to get 18s, based on the template they make for a fitment check. I know, most people go that way, but I like smaller wheels. I would cram 16s on there if I could. The endlinks are one-offs.... I got a set of endlink joints and cut and threaded some 1/2" diameter pipe to fit them. If I could do it over again, I would get the 034 ones, because the rear ones I got from them have a much wider range of articulation, and the joints were based on the whiteline design.... in fact they're probably an exact copy. I'll probably end up getting those anyway, and just finding some rubber boots to throw over them.


Ok cool so basically almost the amount of the stoptech's, yeah I have 18's so I think the stoptech kit would be a better option then piecing together a brembo kit. Are these the front end links your talking about? http://store.034motorsport.com/sway-bar-end-links-motorsport-front-adjustable-8j-8p-audi-mkv-mkvi-volkswagen.html


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

SoSoA3 said:


> Ok cool so basically almost the amount of the stoptech's, yeah I have 18's so I think the stoptech kit would be a better option then piecing together a brembo kit. Are these the front end links your talking about? http://store.034motorsport.com/sway-bar-end-links-motorsport-front-adjustable-8j-8p-audi-mkv-mkvi-volkswagen.html


Those are the ones I would buy if I could do it over again, yes. They're expensive, but I'll probably upgrade to those in the future.


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## SoSoA3 (Sep 10, 2012)

Ok, cool man thanks! I'll prolly end up getting them :beer:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Well, for the oil lines to the turbo, I can't see any way to get at them other than removing the pass side axle. Since I'm going to do that, I'm thinking I should go ahead and replace the spindles with aluminum ones, although I was putting this off because it seems like it's going to be a huge PITA. Given the expense, I may not do it, just yet... need to save money. Just thinking out loud. 

Also, this.....










It's one of the things I love about Germany.... almost every Shell and Aral station has 100+ octane at it's pumps.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Here's a list of what I'm still trying to do, in case anyone is interested or has done any of this before, all in no particular order:

-DV relocate, with GFB DV+
-LPFP Upgrade
-New O2 sensor (rear)
-Catch Can setup
-APR Intercooler (I have this on hand, but haven't installed it yet - I want to do it at the same time as the DV relocate)
-Engine/trans mounts
-vaccuum lines: I'm thinking of swapping all the rubber to silicone
-R32 rear brake upgrade
-upgraded brake mc
-limited slip: I've contacted Peloquin's to see about a rear lsd, but no word yet. They did one for the '04 R32. I know size is a slight issue, but I think with enough interest it can probably be done. I'm going to see if between the A3 and golf R crowd we can get a limited production run on something like this
-DSG cooler: at track events, I've had no real issues with engine temps, but the transmission gets pretty hot; seems like this should take priority over an oil cooler
-front brake ducts: thinking this will go hand in hand with an upgraded grill/fog grills
-custom rotors: the porsche brakes are pretty awesome, but I want some rotors that are an exact fit
-adjustable ball joints: I have these on hand, but am waiting for the next item to do them together
-aluminum spindles (passat / OEM fitment)
-turbo oil inlet and return lines: as stated earlier, need to get to where I can remove the pass side axle for this
-New Wheels!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Other than that, I have some other things I want to get to, but that's all probably in the distant future


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

npace said:


> Here's a list of what I'm still trying to do, in case anyone is interested or has done any of this before, all in no particular order:
> 
> -DV relocate, with GFB DV+
> -LPFP Upgrade
> ...


I will comment on what I know or have researched: I like the R32 rear brakes despite the extra weight. I am not burning through rear pads any more. The TTRS MC seems like a good choice if the displacement of the front calipers is greater than OEM. (I *think* the rear piston is the same in the R caliper). I have been considering this front diff. It is newer tech than the Peloquin, but a rear LSD would be great as well. I have no money for parts at the moment though. An oil cooler will also help with the DSG, since they share the same coolant system. Offloading some heat will benefit the DSG temps. There is also an OEM improvement for the DSG heat exchanger but it does not seem easy to source. PN 02E409061E. The aluminum spindles feel good along with light wheels. Not a huge change, but definitely positive.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

JRutter said:


> I will comment on what I know or have researched: I like the R32 rear brakes despite the extra weight. I am not burning through rear pads any more. The TTRS MC seems like a good choice if the displacement of the front calipers is greater than OEM. (I *think* the rear piston is the same in the R caliper). I have been considering this front diff. It is newer tech than the Peloquin, but a rear LSD would be great as well. I have no money for parts at the moment though. An oil cooler will also help with the DSG, since they share the same coolant system. Offloading some heat will benefit the DSG temps. There is also an OEM improvement for the DSG heat exchanger but it does not seem easy to source. PN 02E409061E. The aluminum spindles feel good along with light wheels. Not a huge change, but definitely positive.


Thanks for the info... I'm not sure if I'll need the MC or not, it took about a week to get good pad bed-in. The brakes seemed softer than the stock calipers until that happened, and my first thought was that the MC wasn't displacing enough fluid; but I'm a lot happier with them now. I'm really interested in the rear brake upgrade; especially with the vented rotors. If you have any recommendations on the install, let me know. It seems really straight forward. As far as the lsd goes, I'll just have to see what comes up with it. I was interested in wavetrac too, but I would really like the rear setup. With the DSG heat exchanger, that was the first I've seen of it... that looks like a really good OEM plus compromise. Do you happen to know what car it's from? After some initial research, it looks like I can go get one at my local VW/Audi dealership here for about 90 Euro (about $120). I'll swing by the parts department on Saturday and check it out. Do you happen to know if it's a direct fit? It looks like it should be, but the gasket or something could be different.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

JRutter said:


> I will comment on what I know or have researched: I like the R32 rear brakes despite the extra weight. I am not burning through rear pads any more. The TTRS MC seems like a good choice if the displacement of the front calipers is greater than OEM. (I *think* the rear piston is the same in the R caliper). I have been considering this front diff. It is newer tech than the Peloquin, but a rear LSD would be great as well. I have no money for parts at the moment though. An oil cooler will also help with the DSG, since they share the same coolant system. Offloading some heat will benefit the DSG temps. There is also an OEM improvement for the DSG heat exchanger but it does not seem easy to source. PN 02E409061E. The aluminum spindles feel good along with light wheels. Not a huge change, but definitely positive.


Having had the Stoptech 355 + R32 rear brake combo and now driving the TTRS with factory 4 piston 370mm front brakes and the same rears as the R32, I would definitely do the master cylinder upgrade. Much quicker engagement with probably about a third-less brake travel. Only downside is that I have to re-learn how to heel toe with the new heightened brake engagement. 

I'll look around the engine bay later and see if there are any part numbers for the TTRS MC.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

crew219 said:


> Having had the Stoptech 355 + R32 rear brake combo and now driving the TTRS with factory 4 piston 370mm front brakes and the same rears as the R32, I would definitely do the master cylinder upgrade. Much quicker engagement with probably about a third-less brake travel. Only downside is that I have to re-learn how to heel toe with the new heightened brake engagement.
> 
> I'll look around the engine bay later and see if there are any part numbers for the TTRS MC.


Okay, thanks. Wait, does that mean you got a TTRS? If so, that's epic, awesome news. Sucks about the A3, but still, what a great car the TTRS is.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> Okay, thanks. Wait, does that mean you got a TTRS? If so, that's epic, awesome news. Sucks about the A3, but still, what a great car the TTRS is.


Indeed. Clean A3s were not popping up in the configurations I wanted. A year or so down the line, I'll consider the new TDI A3 sportback or perhaps e-tron for daily use. That being said, a TTRS is very daily drivable. It's a bit sad that even with all the suspension modifications I did to the A3, it never handled as well as this RS.


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## Greddy87 (Oct 21, 2010)

npace said:


> Here's a list of what I'm still trying to do, in case anyone is interested or has done any of this before, all in no particular order:
> 
> -DV relocate, with GFB DV+
> -LPFP Upgrade
> ...


Awesome list.. I am also going with the Go Fast Bits DV+..


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Not a huge update, mostly because I've been up to working on my wife's car. She has a 98 Subaru with the EJ25 engine, which means that it was prone to headgasket failure. Honestly, it lasted longer than it should have, but it was a huge PITA because of the boxer engine..... in short I ended taking it in after a lot of headaches because I was going to have to get the valve covers machined anyway. I also ended up doing the water pump and crank seals, which I found were leaking when I went to replace all of the timing belt pulleys and bearings. But enough about that crap.... on to the A3!

So, after a lot of debate and thinking about it, I decided on the P3 vent gauge, but it's out of my price range at the moment (see above). So I got an OBD link and a mountek mount for an old android phone that I don't really use:



















And a pic of it mounted:










It's not the ideal solution, but it's good enough for now and will allow me to monitor boost, egt, and fuel trims; or at least what the ECU thinks they are. 

Also, this happened on the ODO:









So it was time for these:









A magnetic drain plug, new filter, and of course 5 litres of fresh new oil. I went with Pentosin, as that seems to be all the rage with the scene in Germany. Not sure if anyone else has used it, but it seems to be a pretty good oil. 

When I replaced the calipers on the last go around, I had to remove the elbow section of the intake to get to the mc and hook up the motive. While doing it, I heard a crunch and noticed that the tabs on the carbonio filter housing were cracked. They had been doing so for sometime, and honestly given the price of the damn thing, I was a little disappointed. So, I finally got around to doing something about it:










I pulled the thing off and used jbweld plastic to get in and around the cracks. As you can see here, I laid it on nice and thick. Since I had the intake off (which is a ton of fun) I went ahead and cleaned the filter, even though it wasn't due. It wasn't filthy, but there were plenty of dead bugs and other random debris to justify it. In my attempt to clean the filter, the garbage pump on the K&N cleaning solution bottle wouldn't work.... at first it wouldn't pump at all, and then it would just have some foam trickle out of the nozzle. Luckily, my wife had left an empty one of these in the plastic recycle bin:










So I liberated it from a doom of meltdown, cleaned it, and re-purposed it to clean my filter. 
But the intake gave me more trouble. I don't know about anyone else with the carbonio, but the 3 screws that hold the filter housing together suck. They are (were) 6mm torx screws that were machined out of the softest metal possible. So I got this guy out:










And then did this to the most stripped head to get it out:










Not the prettiest job, but it let me use a flathead to get it out. I replaced those sh*t screws with some hardened zinc 7mm hex bolts:










This worked much better when putting it all back together, and it went much faster. At this point, the jbweld was nice and hard, so I sanded it down and made sure it was smooth and would fit back into the grill before I started putting it back together. With the filter cleaned and oiled, it all went together fine, and the intake fits and sits much better in the car now. Next chance I get, I'll take it for a few 3rd and 4th pulls to see if this was related to any of the added noise at high boost or not; I'm sure the cracked tabs were contributing to some of the vibration. 

Lastly, in an attempt to help with temps at the track, I added some redline water wetter to my coolant system, along with some distilled water. 










With all this done, I gave the car a quick wash. Now it's nice and clean, and better off than it was a couple of hours ago.










Lastly, happy father's day to any of you Dads out there.... I hope you get more tools than ties!


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

How much did it cost to have your car shipped overseas? Just curious if I had the opportunity to ship my car there and drive on the 'ring. 

Also, how easy would it be to get your hands on a used '09-'12 instrument cluster in MPH? Would love to do the swap to white DIS.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

krazyboi said:


> How much did it cost to have your car shipped overseas? Just curious if I had the opportunity to ship my car there and drive on the 'ring.
> 
> Also, how easy would it be to get your hands on a used '09-'12 instrument cluster in MPH? Would love to do the swap to white DIS.


I bought the car here so it traveled about 370km from the factory to where I picked it up. However, when I looked into shipping my 4Runner over, I was quoted between $1,200 and $1,500 depending on the company. Price is based on weight. It would definitely save time and money to rent a car for the ring. 

As for the instrument cluster, I can look into it, but TBH I think it would be easier to find back home, unless you want kph. If you want an S3 cluster with mph, I would look into ebay uk.


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

npace said:


> I bought the car here so it traveled about 370km from the factory to where I picked it up. However, when I looked into shipping my 4Runner over, I was quoted between $1,200 and $1,500 depending on the company. Price is based on weight. It would definitely save time and money to rent a car for the ring.
> 
> As for the instrument cluster, I can look into it, but TBH I think it would be easier to find back home, unless you want kph. If you want an S3 cluster with mph,* I would look into ebay uk.*


That price isn't all too bad. I would have to find some play money to ship my car. Thanks for the info :beer:


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

I'm just gonna go steal DG's S3 he has back home in Italy... 

Sent from my Igloo


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Well, I should be here until next June or July, so if anyone makes the trip over within the next year and wants to meet up, lmk. I live about an hour and a half from the ring, and about an hour from the Circuit de Spa-Francorchamps. The Michael Schumacher Kart and event center is also about an hour away.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Well, the car goes into storage in two days for four months, so I wanted to take care of a few things because when I finally get the car back, winter will be here and I'll be behind the power curve. Last summer, before I installed jack pads on the car, the jack stands I used took some of the undercoating off. These cars have a nice layer from the factory to protect the rocker panel against rust, but if you put the car on jackstands one time at the seam, that stuff is coming off. 

This is what it looked like before:










You can see where some of the undercoating ripped off, exposing bare metal to the elements. The first thing I did was mix some simple green in a spray bottle with water, spray the area, scrub with a toothbrush, and wipe dry. 

Next, it was time for the undercoat. There's a few brands out there, but I used this stuff from 3M:










I blocked off the rest of the car with butcher paper and painter's tape. This is what it looked like with the stuff sprayed on:










Be forewarned, it's messy stuff. Next, I was able to find some color matching, water based paint from touch-up direct:



















After the undercoat dried, I sprayed it on lightly in layers. This is how it came out:










Paint is still wet in the pic, and the rest of the panel is really dirty, but it matches pretty good. It isn't perfect, but it's better than before, and nobody will see it anyway. I would recommend this to anyone who lives in an area where snow or heavy rain is a reality if their undercoating is starting to strip. Rust prevention is faster and easier than rust removal. Waiting for the undercoat and paint to dry took longer than the minimal work involved. 

Anyway, that's all, probably for a while.


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## Greddy87 (Oct 21, 2010)

Awesome..! Glad you got the ball rolling,. Liking the progress.. My 4 piston kit was mushy at 1st too.. I have SS lines on the front, stock lines for the rears.. We bled the system 3 times manually.. Then we went for a few hard runs & it got a bit better, but still mushy on the pedal.. Upgraded to rear SS lines & the pedal feel is much better, grabs better too.. Although I have stock Bosch rear pads, so those might get chewed up quickly.. lol


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Greddy87 said:


> Awesome..! Glad you got the ball rolling,. Liking the progress.. My 4 piston kit was mushy at 1st too.. I have SS lines on the front, stock lines for the rears.. We bled the system 3 times manually.. Then we went for a few hard runs & it got a bit better, but still mushy on the pedal.. Upgraded to rear SS lines & the pedal feel is much better, grabs better too.. Although I have stock Bosch rear pads, so those might get chewed up quickly.. lol


Yeah, I already had ss lines on the front and rear, and they're still the same ones on the front. All I needed was the appropriate banjo bolts and some new crush washers for the new calipers and they fit fine. Same for me though... bled the brakes 3 times. After some bedding of the new pads they firmed up significantly.... the brake pedal actually sits slightly higher than before. There's still some travel, but they engage faster. I think the tyrolsport brace is helping with that as well. The pads though..... they're probably too harsh for the street; I'm getting a lot of dust buildup which results in squealing when I need to brake gently.... goes away when I wash the car (or if it rains  ) When these wear through I'll probably switch to pads with more ceramic in the compound and see if it helps.

As for the rear, I plan on getting some golf R calipers and rotors. I've also got one more thing planned after the rear calipers and I'll be done with brake upgrades for good.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Okay, so this is truly the last update to the car before it goes into storage for 4 months. I might update the thread or something, but work on the car is done. Going along the lines with the undercoat, there was another area that was bothering me, and minimal rust had actually started. This was on the rear suspension, which is common. I don't know why audi didn't spring for an extra layer of paint on the edges, but I see it frequently. 

This pic is what I'm talking about:










I know, its not that bad, but I guess I really don't have patience for this kind of stuff. A can of VHF suspension paint was $8, and I didn't even need to use anywhere near the whole can. I took some simple green and scrubbed with a toothbrush, then dried, sanded, and simplegreen scrubbed again, drying for a final time. This was the prep. With that out of the way, I went ahead and covered the area in the VHF black spray paint. Again, the longest part was waiting for it to dry. 

Another item that I had been putting off was changing the Haldex fluid. Ideally, this should be done at the same time as the rear diff oil, but I didn't have any of that so I only did the haldex fluid. HPA recommends cutting the interval in half if you use the race controller. For reference, I'm at approx. 20k miles. There were some questions about where you drain and fill, here's a pic:










The hole is where you fill from, and the bolt at the bottom under the controller is the drain bolt. When I drained the fluid, it was a little darkish but still pretty clear. The lower bolt had some gunk on it, but the upper bolt had quite a bit more metal on it than I was expecting. 

Here's all the stuff that came out on the upper bolt:









I did not change the filter, since I changed the fluid at 10k after getting the updated controller I really didn't see a need. The whole litre of fluid didn't fit; about 50ml of fluid wouldn't pump into the fill hole. My guess is that there was about this much in the filter. In any event, I'm confident that I put as much fluid in as what came out. When I pull the car out of storage in 4 months, I'll change the diff fluid, and really both fluids will be on more or less the same mileage, so I'm not really concerned about it. 

I expect that I'll have more than a few items ready to start again this winter when I get the car back. There's very little left that I want to address before I start getting into some bigger things that will require some heavy assistance at a minimum, like a lsd, rods and bearings, a gtx turbo, and a custom tune. Eventually, I'll get to my goal of about 420 hp at the wheels. Thanks for reading.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Well, car is officially in storage for the next 4 months. In preparation, I gave her a good detail inside and out, put some fuel additive/stabilizer in the tank, and disconnected the battery when I parked it. Should be fine, but I suspect I'll need to do an oil change when I get it out after letting it sit so long.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

It's been a little while. Not sure if anyone is still following this, but here's an update. I should be back with the car in about a week. In the meantime, I've been gathering some parts to have fun with over the winter. 

One of the things I found was a good set of used Ohlins Road and Track shocks and struts. They came from Canada, so they had all the typical salt corrosion bs from a winter up there. 

This is how I got them:




























So I did what I thought was appropriate; I wire wheeled the crap out of them, then did some light sanding, and then covered them with some duplicolor silver caliper paint. All in all, they're not perfect, but I'm happy with how they turned out. Realistically, nobody's going to see them anyway. This is how they turned out:



















The only question I have: When these came, the upper strut bodies had some kind of grease on them. Does anyone know what kind to get? A lot of it came off in the cleaning, wheeling, and painting process, and I want to make sure these are well protected / lubricated. Thanks.


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

Not sure about the grease, but congrats on the Ohlins!


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Thanks. This also means that I'll have an almost new set of Bilstein B8's for sale in the near future, for anyone who may be interested.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Finished cleaning up the ohlins and threw them in the mail. Should go out tomorrow morning. Question is if they will beat me back (I get home on Friday morning). Fingers crossed. 

Also, ordered a bunch of parts to keep me going over the winter. The list, in no particular order:

1. Passat aluminum spindles
2. New axle bolts
3. Rear diff fluid... I run in race mode on the haldex 90% of the time. Swapped hladex fluid right before I put the car in storage, so it only makes sense to change the diff fluid at the same mileage.
4. New upper strut bearings and suspension hardware for the install
5. Brake fluid - Prepping for another flush late spring.... Once a year is probably too often, but DOT 4 is more hygroscopic than DOT 3, so I'm paranoid about it
6. Stainless Steel Braided Teflon lines and fittings
7. 1" ID flexible silicone hose
8. A few other various odds and ends (clamps, hoses, etc.)

There are a few more parts to buy, and some of this stuff won't happen until March (I have to pass annual inspection and don't want to have to take a bunch of stuff off just to put it back on again)

I still need:
1. Catch Can
2. Rear breather block-off plate
3. Boost cap / tap
4. DSG fluid and filter

Anyway, that's it for now. Thanks for reading. umpkin:


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

:thumbup:


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## Greddy87 (Oct 21, 2010)

Awesome.. ! Not sure if you are still looking into upgrading your rotors.. You can Fit TTRS Front rotors, but you would need to buy TTRS Brake Dust Shields.. Same with the rears if you plan upgrading those too & wont fit 17inch wheels..


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

You've been busy since i last checked in! Nice score on the ohlins!


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Been a while since I updated this. I hope people are still interested. I installed the P3 gauge I got from Presens3; works great, and I love the functionality. I finished re-finishing the ohlins struts a while ago, and have aluminum passat spindles to go on as well, but haven't gotten around to any of that. 

Today, however, I royally f***ed up the car. Okay, not really, but kind of. I did the DV relocate, but it isn't done. I ran out of time and patience. I got it all installed, but the wiring extension is a little shorter than I would like, but it fits. I coupled the air return to the location used on the APR stage 3 kit, but there's a slight kink in the hose, which is causing a loss of boost. So the car accelerates worse than before the relocate, noticeably. I'm not giving up on it; I need to get a silicone T connector for the intake post-MAF and an aluminum coupler to try and cram in there. The problem is the APR / carbonio intake doesn't leave a lot of room to add this in, so I'm going to have to get a little creative. Oh, and I need a small 1" plug for where I have the hose routed to now. 

So everything's reversible and fixable (albiet a huge PITA to get to.... thank you audi for leaving zero room down there) but I'll get it back to full power soon, probably in about a week or two when I have time. I'll post my impressions with the DV relocate working properly, as well after adding the DV+. I also intend to take it to a dyno and see if it gets any measurable gains. 

For engine / power mods, all I'll have left is to finally install my catch-can setup and a huge intercooler, and then to finally get around to replacing the sh**ty oil lines to the turbo. Between that and finishing the suspension, that'll be it. For a while, anyway.... I have a full engine build planned, but that's not happening any time too soon.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

*Got boost?*

So the DV relocate was kind of a bust. I say kind of because the point at which the pressurized air is bled back into the intake didn't work well for the DV relocate setup. Also, where I capped off the original DV location, the cap came off and so the car wasn't running boost at all. Fixed all that today, and I have boost again. The DV is still in the relocate position, but it's working like a blow-off valve until I get a few more parts to make the relocate complete. Essentially, I'm going to use what I have to create a sort of custom intake, if you can call it that. 

Cleared the codes I got for MAF, MAP, and ABS... so everything seems to be working properly now after some driving around. 

Once I get the rest of this complete, I'll take pics so everyone can see what I'm rambling about. For now, I'm just glad things are the way they should be.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Well, here's another update, this time with pics. Hopefully someone reading this will respond.....

So I got around to installing (most) of my catch can setup. More on that in a minute.... but first, here's what I did.

First, I used a stock PCV hose. I tried to separate it without cutting, but in the end I had to cut the plastic hose to get the fitting out, like so....











I used 3 feet of -10 an braided line to connect to the catch can. The other end used an fittings, like so....










I used a small piece of black electrical tape and a clamp on the stock fitting end. The black electrical tape is to keep the braiding nice and neat, and the clamp is obviously to keep the fitting on. 











I used an IE VTA catch can. I was keen on getting one of the old Eurojet setups, but those are practically impossible to find now and I didn't want to pay the retarded prices for what's available for the TSI. So in addition to the hose and hose ends, I got a 1/2 NPT plug for the other side of the catch can. Additionally, I used an M6 bolt on the engine mount to mount the catch can. I got the catch can on IE's holiday sale for $120. Summit racing hose ends and fittings, and hose, were also on sale, and cheap. All told, this setup cost less than $225 with the IE boost cap. I also ordered a rear breather block off plate, so eventually the rear PCV line will connect to the can also, but IE didn't put that in the box.... it's getting shipped separately. Here's a pic of the setup in the car:










In the pic, you can also see the DV relocate. Right now, it's more of a BOV, as there isn't a hose taking it back to the intake. I plan on a custom intake setup to make this all work, but I'm waiting on some parts to make it happen. 

I also upgraded my headlights a little. Nothing major, but I put a set of these in the low beams:










And these in the high beams: 










OSRAM rallye lights are bright..... these are 65w instead of the normal 55w and they put out some light! I'm thinking about another set next time I need low beams. 

Anyway, that's it for now. I'll post again with more pics when I get the intake parts and can set it up.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

List of mods so far - 

Engine:
-APR Stage 3 turbo and tune
-Carbonio Intake
-S3 intercooler
-DV relocate
-Catch can setup

Brakes:
-SS lines front and rear
-Stoptech slotted rotors
-Porsche / Brembo 4 pot calipers
-Stoptech Pads
-ATE fluid
-Tyrolsport MC brace

Suspension:
-Bilstein B8 shocks/struts
-VWR Springs
-TT control arm bushings
-Passat aluminum control arms
-Tyrolsport Subframe collars
-H&R rear sway bar
-H&R spacers 8mm front, 12mm rear

Transmission
-HPA stage 3 DSG Tune
-HPA switchable haldex controller w/ remote
-Paddle shift retrofit

Interior
-MFSW retrofit
-P3 gauge

And here's what I have on hand to still install:
-Ohlins shocks/struts
-Passat aluminum spindles
-superpro adjustable ball joints
-APR intercooler
-GFB DV+
-New turbo oil feed/return lines

I'm also due an oil change and 25k service, just waiting on filter to come in. I plan on doing the DSG service in the upcoming months as well. Finally, I have parts ordered for a custom intake setup.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Forgot to ask, for anyone who's running a boost gauge, where are you running the tubing through the firewall? Is there a hole already there that works well, or are you guys drilling one separate? Thanks.


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## louiekaps (Aug 12, 2013)

The main harness grommet has a bunch of little nipples on it for running things through. You just have to snip the tip or poke a hole.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

npace, clean setup on the catch can. I plan on doing something with my rear pcv too, just haven't spent the time to figure any of it out yet.

As far as a boost gauge line, there's a passage in the firewall already. Behind the battery box and tray (I think I had to remove the tray to get good access) the main wiring harness comes through the firewall. The harness passes through a weird rubber grommet. You will see that the grommet has little rubber nipples. If you snip one of the nipples you can pass the line through and it's a nice sealed fit. Lube up the tip of the line to make things a bit easier on yourself. Spit works. :thumbup:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Thanks for the info on the boost tubing, I'll check it out and put up pics of what I end up doing. 

As for the catch can; I plan on doing basically the same thing on the rear side as the front, I just need to get the rear breather block off to finish it. 

Also, I had to order a new boost cap / tap. Driving around with the IE one was fine, but I got into some heavy boost (24 ft-lbs range) and after the car started running a little off. Not really bad at first, but when I got home, it felt like a misfire, engine seemed to be surging, if that makes sense. So I opened the hood, started looking around, and the boost cap is gone  :facepalm:

Ordered this one instead: 








This plugs in like the OEM style tube, so hopefully that works. If not, I'm at a loss for what to do. Are the boost caps on the market not meant to handle any kind of heavy boost pressure above, say 10 ft-lbs?


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## easthk (Oct 10, 2004)

^ the 034 boost tap works fine., locks into place with tab, better than set screw design. I added a rubber hose/sleeve over the barb for a tighter fit onto boost gauge hose, plus clamped- using AWE gauge, also works/fits well. Only gripe on awe gauge is glare from window makes it hard to see on sunny days. Good color match on gauge too


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Cool, thanks. How many ft-lbs of boost are you running? IIRC, you're K04, correct? For the gauge, I'm running the P3 gauge, and it works great. I have the vacuum boost sensor option for it, just haven't hooked it up yet. I'll try it out when the new tap from 034 gets here, which still hasn't shipped yet.  I'll call or send an email to them on Monday and see what's up.


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## easthk (Oct 10, 2004)

About 21-23psi, older version of apr k04 software. Tap stays put


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

npace said:


> Thanks for the info on the boost tubing, I'll check it out and put up pics of what I end up doing.
> 
> As for the catch can; I plan on doing basically the same thing on the rear side as the front, I just need to get the rear breather block off to finish it.
> 
> ...


The catch can thread reminded me of the 42DD boost tap that is out there:
















http://www.42draftdesigns.com/Mk5-PCV-Plug-Tap-_p_260.html

You can see that it has little "fingers" that act as a slot for one of the intake fins to sit in to keep the cap/tap from popping off. I've heard great things about it. I'm sure the 034 one will work fine though, so it's just another option for the future reference of others visiting this thread.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

BeeAlk said:


> You can see that it has little "fingers" that act as a slot for one of the intake fins to sit in to keep the cap/tap from popping off. I've heard great things about it. I'm sure the 034 one will work fine though, so it's just another option for the future reference of others visiting this thread.


Thanks. I found that one after I ordered the 034 motorsport one. The 034 one clips behind that same fin as in the pic you provided, it just doesn't have the front piece. Either way, both of them look to be a better design than the IE one was. Frankly, I was really disappointed in that. I thought it would hold a lot better. :Sigh: Live and learn, I guess.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

New Intake... Not a huge update, but finally got the DV relocate setup properly, with an intake that allows the re-route of boost pressure post-MAF and keeps the APR stage 3 parts of the intake. Here's the result:










These are the parts I used, overall relatively inexpensive when coupled with pieces re-used from the carbonio intake:










Together, the parts added an overall length of about 7 inches:










That meant I had to trim the APR silicone. I originally tried to use the carbonio, and trimmed it about 2 inches as well. It was still too long, and not wanting to push it, I went with a stubby setup. I'll probably end up changing this as well, as I've got a few ideas about what to do different, but for now, this is the setup. 

The intake allowed for the proper relocate, I also added the GFB DV+










I was also due an oil change, so I put in a fresh filter and oil. I switched to Motul 8100xs; I had been using German Pentosin, as that's generally easier to get here.



















So that's all for now. I haven't taken it for a test drive yet, but when I do, I'll let you all know how the DV setup and intake are working.


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## Greddy87 (Oct 21, 2010)

BeeAlk said:


> The catch can thread reminded me of the 42DD boost tap that is out there:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I also have the 42DD as well.. Motul Xcess 8100 is all i use.. No complaints here.. Hope you enjoy the way the car drives.. :thumbup:


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> New Intake... Not a huge update, but finally got the DV relocate setup properly, with an intake that allows the re-route of boost pressure post-MAF and keeps the APR stage 3 parts of the intake. Here's the result:


That seems like a very odd place to reroute the dv. Any reason why you didn't go with the more traditional method? 

http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1156468&postcount=326










In general you want it closer to the compressor to help with respool.


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## kbad (May 26, 2007)

crew219 said:


> That seems like a very odd place to reroute the dv. Any reason why you didn't go with the more traditional method?
> 
> In general you want it closer to the compressor to help with respool.


yeah, but ... it gets hot as hell where its at, deteriorating proper functionality of the dv over time - specially if you're tuning - and the TB has to wait .. if its closest to the TB, then there is no time wasted while it functions giving the advantage of improved throttle response and boost holding ... and the "cooler" blow off can be fed into the intake to get cooled down more while adding more O2 volume to your intake .. besides, your dv will function much better away from all the heat in that area.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

kbad said:


> yeah, but ... it gets hot as hell where its at, deteriorating proper functionality of the dv over time - specially if you're tuning - and the TB has to wait .. if its closest to the TB, then there is no time wasted while it functions giving the advantage of improved throttle response and boost holding ... and the "cooler" blow off can be fed into the intake to get cooled down more while adding more O2 volume to your intake .. besides, your dv will function much better away from all the heat in that area.


I'm commenting on where the charge air is being recirculated to.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

kbad said:


> yeah, but ... it gets hot as hell where its at, deteriorating proper functionality of the dv over time - specially if you're tuning - and the TB has to wait .. if its closest to the TB, then there is no time wasted while it functions giving the advantage of improved throttle response and boost holding ... and the "cooler" blow off can be fed into the intake to get cooled down more while adding more O2 volume to your intake .. besides, your dv will function much better away from all the heat in that area.


He's talking about where I re-routed to, not the DV relocate itself. I mainly did this because I was nervous about hacking a hole into the portion of the intake that connects to the turbo, and I didn't want to spend a bunch of time / money to try and get an FSI one like in the pic at the link Crew provided. For whatever reason, on the stage 3 kit, APR deleted that bung on that section of the silicone. 

Crew, to answer your question: While I was running with the relocate and not recirculating, there was no problem with respool from what I could tell. Now if I threw it on a dyno, there might be a negligible difference, but my 0-60 times are consistent, and I'm not sure that the extra 18 inches of distance makes a difference anyway. The main thing is to have it post MAF and pre-compressor. I originally tried to route the tubing to the original plug from where APR had the DV, but it was so tight in that area that it would kink the hose and I couldn't get a good seal on the coupler. The only thing I need to do now is get a blank plug for the extra MAF sensor on the APR housing. Right now, it's covered with tape.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> He's talking about where I re-routed to, not the DV relocate itself. I mainly did this because I was nervous about hacking a hole into the portion of the intake that connects to the turbo, and I didn't want to spend a bunch of time / money to try and get an FSI one like in the pic at the link Crew provided. For whatever reason, on the stage 3 kit, APR deleted that bung on that section of the silicone.
> 
> Crew, to answer your question: While I was running with the relocate and not recirculating, there was no problem with respool from what I could tell. Now if I threw it on a dyno, there might be a negligible difference, but my 0-60 times are consistent, and I'm not sure that the extra 18 inches of distance makes a difference anyway. The main thing is to have it post MAF and pre-compressor. I originally tried to route the tubing to the original plug from where APR had the DV, but it was so tight in that area that it would kink the hose and I couldn't get a good seal on the coupler. The only thing I need to do now is get a blank plug for the extra MAF sensor on the APR housing. Right now, it's covered with tape.


What size is the MAF housing? Same as OE? The APR MAF housing is larger than OE and the software is scaled around it...

The post I linked is a TSI. The OP added the bung. It wasn't provided by APR.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

crew219 said:


> What size is the MAF housing? Same as OE? The APR MAF housing is larger than OE and the software is scaled around it...
> 
> The post I linked is a TSI. The OP added the bung. It wasn't provided by APR.


Hmmm. Where would I get a bung like that?

Edit: Found this - http://www.hstuning.com/product_info.php?products_id=1078

No pic or description, but I'm going to go ahead and order it on a hope and a prayer that it's the same thing steelcurtain was talking about in the thread you linked to.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> Hmmm. Where would I get a bung like that?
> 
> Edit: Found this - http://www.hstuning.com/product_info.php?products_id=1078
> 
> No pic or description, but I'm going to go ahead and order it on a hope and a prayer that it's the same thing steelcurtain was talking about in the thread you linked to.


Looks like it.


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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

npace said:


> Hmmm. Where would I get a bung like that?
> 
> Edit: Found this - http://www.hstuning.com/product_info.php?products_id=1078
> 
> No pic or description, but I'm going to go ahead and order it on a hope and a prayer that it's the same thing steelcurtain was talking about in the thread you linked to.


Sorry we didn't have a picture up! We stock that item so I had Tim our photographer take one and upload it just now. It's the part on the far left of the picture that crew219 posted above.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> Sorry we didn't have a picture up! We stock that item so I had Tim our photographer take one and upload it just now. It's the part on the far left of the picture that crew219 posted above.


Great! I already went ahead and ordered it. Is this the piece that comes with a cutting tool and instructions? I read about that being included by VWR in steelcurtain's thread somewhere. 

To any and everyone: If it doesnt, then does anyone have ideas on how to cut a clean hole in silicone?


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> Great! I already went ahead and ordered it. Is this the piece that comes with a cutting tool and instructions? I read about that being included by VWR in steelcurtain's thread somewhere.
> 
> To any and everyone: If it doesnt, then does anyone have ideas on how to cut a clean hole in silicone?


Masking tape and a drill bit.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

npace said:


> Great! I already went ahead and ordered it. Is this the piece that comes with a cutting tool and instructions? I read about that being included by VWR in steelcurtain's thread somewhere.
> 
> To any and everyone: If it doesnt, then does anyone have ideas on how to cut a clean hole in silicone?


Use a sharp bit, go slow. Use a press if you have one, keep the pressure on the coupler light. I've heard that freezing the part helps keep it from deforming when you're drilling through.

A punch works well too, if you have one big enough. That'll give you the cleanest cut.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

BeeAlk said:


> Use a sharp bit, go slow. Use a press if you have one, keep the pressure on the coupler light. I've heard that freezing the part helps keep it from deforming when you're drilling through.
> 
> A punch works well too, if you have one big enough. That'll give you the cleanest cut.


Yeah... I was thinking a hollow punch. The main thing is getting something solid behind it for a good, straight through cut.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Forgot to show how I did the DV harness. The Unitronic relocate does not provide a long enough harness, IMO. The only way I could get it to reach was by going up directly under the motor mount, and it was a stretch at that. It made me uncomfortable, so I made my own harness. First, I used some OEM connectors and wiring:


















Then I cut the wiring loop in half, and connected each end with some 18 AWG wire:









Solder and heat shrink, all done. I also used heat shrink on the connector ends, to make it a little more professional looking:









Finally, I wrapped the whole thing in convoluted tubing:









I was able to route the wiring under / behind the coolant bottle and along the frame rail, keeping it tucked away until reaching the DV. 

I also got one of these, because I'm tired of disconnecting the P3 gauge every time I want to hook up VCDS:








But now the cable's too long and hangs on the dead pedal. I guess #firstworldproblems ... need to find a way to tuck everything up semi-permanent, with only the open split available for a VCDS connection. 

Also, because I love how it looks, steering wheel and gauge cluster at dusk:


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Now that I've passed inspection and fixed my electrical problems, I can continue with this. I've been collecting parts, and have a bunch of stuff I need to find the time to install and/or take care of. Top priority now is to replace the cabin filter and do a DSG fluid change. I also got the USP filter housing for the DSG, mostly because it looks cool. I'm not sure how much it will actually reduce temps, but every little bit helps, right? Lastly, I have an APR intercooler that's been sitting in my garage for over a year now that I never got around to... so that's coming up as well.

Additionally, I have a new suspension setup in the works. I got the Ohlins a while back but haven't installed them, as I was waiting on a Ground Control coilover kit to help finish it off. After a ton of research and bugging JRutter about his setup, I finally pulled the trigger. I ended up going with 300 ft/lb springs in the front and 350 in the rear. I also have some B6 aluminum spindles that I got all cleaned up, some new bearings, and new hardware to transfer the brake calipers. Huge shout out and thanks to JRutter who was instrumental in providing information and pointing me in the right direction on the suspension stuff. 

I also have the DV relocate finally worked out. I'm waiting to hear back from a company called hose candy that specializes in custom radiator hose. They make a product that allows you to bend the hose in any direction needed, and will make it in just about any size if you ask. I found a place to connect the DV that will allow for me to keep the APR intake as it is (no cutting) and facilitates blocking off the rear PCV. 

Oh, and I've got some new wheels in the works. 

Finally, I added myself to the pre-order for this:










Sorry for the mostly text update; I'll try and get some pics in over the weekend.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

I'm really looking forward to your updates and impressions about several of the things you have planned.. That intake is beauuuuutiful.


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

Hope you like the springs - sounds like a good combo for the 2.0. The Ohlins were a breath of fresh air for me coming from the PSS10s. They handle crappy streets without much fuss (Bilstein's weakness) and are great on the track.


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## jmarch (Apr 17, 2012)

Loving this thread. Great to see someone pushing the envelop on the Quattro platform with a stage 3 setup. I'm also Quattro and have been wondering how well big power would work out. Keep up the good work.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

JRutter said:


> Hope you like the springs - sounds like a good combo for the 2.0. The Ohlins were a breath of fresh air for me coming from the PSS10s. They handle crappy streets without much fuss (Bilstein's weakness) and are great on the track.


Glad to hear it. I have the Bilstein B8 sprint struts, and they handle well, but are rough on crappy streets, which we have a lot of (think old cobblestone). Now I just need to find a day to install it all - I plan to do the coilovers, spindles, and bearings all in one shot. 



jmarch said:


> Loving this thread. Great to see someone pushing the envelop on the Quattro platform with a stage 3 setup. I'm also Quattro and have been wondering how well big power would work out. Keep up the good work.


Thanks. I think krazyboi has the most power - he's got a BT setup on a 3.2. I've got another turbo upgrade in the works (well, in my head, really) but that's a ways off. Later in the year I plan to get the engine build with rods, bearings, and pistons. After that, I'll start moving toward more power. The APR stage 3 setup really isn't that far from my power goal, and I could probably get what I want out of the GT28, but I'm also looking for faster spool. The intercooler should help get me close powerwise, and the stronger internals will help me add boost.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

So I departed from my original plan and went ahead and installed the APR FMIC. I didn't take any pics while I was in there.... I had a flow going and didn't want to stop. Hardest part of the whole process was actually the hoses; the one on the passenger side doesn't fit right so the charge pipe won't bolt back into position. I'm going to have to order a special silicone piece to get it to work. Anyway, that's all for now. More good stuff coming.


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## VDubVirus (Jun 10, 2006)

npace, just read most of your build. Bravo.

Question, how did you get your MAF wiring to extend so far? I have an EVOMS intake left over form my last car (Mk5 GTI) that I would like to adapt to the TSI engine. First issue is the maf sensor location. Did you extend the wiring? Or is there some way of getting more slack out of the OEM setup?


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## Greddy87 (Oct 21, 2010)

Passat aluminum spindles, Also interested in these do you know if they extend the our front wheels a bit further from stock spindles? Also does the P3 gauge fix / clear vagcom errors ?


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## Roadglide (Jan 10, 2003)

Greddy87 said:


> Also does the P3 gauge fix / clear vagcom errors ?


The P3 gauge will not FIX an error code but will clear them.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

VDubVirus said:


> npace, just read most of your build. Bravo.
> 
> Question, how did you get your MAF wiring to extend so far? I have an EVOMS intake left over form my last car (Mk5 GTI) that I would like to adapt to the TSI engine. First issue is the maf sensor location. Did you extend the wiring? Or is there some way of getting more slack out of the OEM setup?


Thanks. To extend the MAF wiring, you have to unwrap it from the main harness back to the firewall, separate it, and re-wrap. It isn't that bad. You don't have to actually extend the harness, the OEM wiring is long enough, it just has to be separated back to the firewall from the rest of the engine harness. As for the deAutokey stuff, I wasn't trying to create a problem or controversy or whatever. I was/am unaware of a new bulb. The last 2 sets of H7s that I got didn't work well, and I just wanted to make sure the right information was out there. 



Greddy87 said:


> Passat aluminum spindles, Also interested in these do you know if they extend the our front wheels a bit further from stock spindles? Also does the P3 gauge fix / clear vagcom errors ?


TBH, I haven't installed the Passat spindles yet. I got most of my info from JRutter. They won't push the wheels out at all; the thickness between the hub and the axle is the same as stock. They are thicker, however, at the brake mounting locations so you have to get new caliper carrier bolts that are the proper length for your caliper and / or bracket. I plan to install the rest of my suspension late next week; this will include the spindles, Ohlins shocks/struts, and the custom coilovers that Ground Control sent me. 

Edit: Forgot to add that I'm also installing superpro adjustable ball joints for added camber at the same time. 

The P3 gauge; I didn't even know it could clear codes. I bought it used and it included the original software plus a beta update. But it does do a lot if you know how to read / use outputs like EGT, Boost, air temp, etc for tuning. Once I get the IE manifold and decide on a turbo setup (leaning GTX30) I will need to decide on software. I like the idea of Eurodyne because the user can change the fueling and everything, but I'm not sure if they have something to delete the runner flaps and take advantage of the upgraded IE plenum. The other option is to have IE do it for me, but then I run into the issue of whether they even have a file that will support a GTX30. Plus, I will eventually convert the car to two separate fuel maps, one for Premium pump gas and one for E85 - so that also becomes an issue. UM is another option I'm considering. Really, I need to reach out to all three and see what they can offer. My hope is that Eurodyne can provide a good base map for 90% of this that I can tinker with and dial in. If not, it's cool if I can get a good custom tune from UM or IE. This is all way down the road. I also just got a good deal on one of these:










So my next project is a complete departure from what I'm doing now, although I probably won't get to it for a few years.


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## VDubVirus (Jun 10, 2006)

npace said:


> Thanks. To extend the MAF wiring, you have to unwrap it from the main harness back to the firewall, separate it, and re-wrap. It isn't that bad. You don't have to actually extend the harness, the OEM wiring is long enough, it just has to be separated back to the firewall from the rest of the engine harness. As for the deAutokey stuff, I wasn't trying to create a problem or controversy or whatever. I was/am unaware of a new bulb. The last 2 sets of H7s that I got didn't work well, and I just wanted to make sure the right information was out there.



I do appreciate the help in the other thread, and really appreciate the MAF advice.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Nobody in here cares about my Ford chassis. That makes me sad. But I woke up to some not-so good news concerning the car... I noticed an oil spot on the driveway when I walked out to it. Then looked underneath, and oil is dripping down from the subframe. This is what it looked like when the turbo oil lines were leaking before. So I went to the front of the car and opened the hood, and found peices of bread under the intake on top of the turbo heat shield. So.... I think a marder (or marten) which is basically a weasel relative they have here that likes to chew on rubber lines, like the sh**ty ones APR gave me with my stage 3 kit. So I am finally going to replace those with the stuff I got a while back and was waiting to do later (with a new turbo). Only problem is that I basically have no time to do it.... and I have to remove the front passenger side axle at the transfer case to get to the lines. 

Has anyone done this before? (the axle removal). I'm pretty confident I can handle it, but if anyone has suggestions about the axle removal / reinstall or the turbo oil feed and return lines, I would appreciate it. Thanks.

Nick


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Nobody has any tips/tricks for faster axle removal / reinstall or turbo oil feed line install?


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## JRutter (Nov 25, 2009)

npace said:


> Nobody has any tips/tricks for faster axle removal ?


When I did my driver side recently, I jacked the strut out of the spindle to get enough clearance for pulling the axle out of the bearing. This left all of the alignment related bolts still fastened. My inner hubs are bolted, so with some extensions and a triple square driver, it was pretty easy to pull it off. The newer style axles are different though, right? More of a press fit that you have to carefully pry apart?


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## Greddy87 (Oct 21, 2010)

npace said:


> Thanks. To extend the MAF wiring, you have to unwrap it from the main harness back to the firewall, separate it, and re-wrap. It isn't that bad. You don't have to actually extend the harness, the OEM wiring is long enough, it just has to be separated back to the firewall from the rest of the engine harness. As for the deAutokey stuff, I wasn't trying to create a problem or controversy or whatever. I was/am unaware of a new bulb. The last 2 sets of H7s that I got didn't work well, and I just wanted to make sure the right information was out there.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for the prompt reply.. I was also thinking Spulen Aluminum spindles, they come with 75 durometer bushings.. I like the P3 gauge also because of the voltmeter, def going to save up for that..:thumbup: Also nice 2nd project, what body connects to the frame? Or are you making a funny car


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

JRutter, thanks for the response. The axles look like they're bolted to the transfer case, but I think they're splined as well. Removing the strut from the spindle sounds like a good idea. 



Greddy87 said:


> Thanks for the prompt reply.. I was also thinking Spulen Aluminum spindles, they come with 75 durometer bushings.. I like the P3 gauge also because of the voltmeter, def going to save up for that..:thumbup: Also nice 2nd project, what body connects to the frame? Or are you making a funny car


For the spindles; do you mean the control arms? The spindles have no bushings. For the control arms I got passat ones and pressed them out of the bushings, pressed the stock bushings out of stock brackets, pressed TT bushings into the stock brackets, and then put it all together. Poly is nice but it breaks down faster in this type of application, and the TT ones will last a really long time. 

The rolling chassis is for a '32 Ford. Finding a decent body is going to be difficult; you can get brand new ones, fiberglass or steel, but they are expensive. Really I'm not going to be ready to do that project for a while. I got a good deal on a rolling chassis and that's why I got it, but it's sitting at a friend's house until I have the time / space to pick it up and start work.


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## AngryGiraffe (Sep 21, 2014)

npace said:


> The rolling chassis is for a '32 Ford.


Nice! Growing up my father had a '32 Chevy with suicide doors. Man I miss that car! I wish I had a scanner, I would post a picture of it. All I have is an old yellowed photo of it from the 80's


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

AngryGiraffe said:


> Nice! Growing up my father had a '32 Chevy with suicide doors. Man I miss that car! I wish I had a scanner, I would post a picture of it. All I have is an old yellowed photo of it from the 80's


Awesome. I've wanted a '32 Ford ever since I saw one on _American Graffiti_. I'm planning to put a Chevy engine in it as well; my wife's brother has a '78 Cutlass (G-body) with the Chevy 305 engine option. It's nothing crazy, but I can get it for basically nothing and I'm thinking with the addition of a circle track (or similar) cam and an MSD EFI conversion, I can get some pretty good power out of it. Really, I'd like to do an LS3, but free > $6,000.


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## Greddy87 (Oct 21, 2010)

npace said:


> JRutter, thanks for the response. The axles look like they're bolted to the transfer case, but I think they're splined as well. Removing the strut from the spindle sounds like a good idea.
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lol.. Yes as I stand corrected.. I meant Control arms.. lol.. Sounds like a good idea with the TT bushings.. Not to familiar with the Ford chassis, myself but my heart always has room for the classics.. Although 1972 SS Chevelle gets me all the time lol.. Cool either way, I'm sure it will be an awesome project.. :thumbup:


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