# FAQ/DIY - How To Use A Clay Bar + Clay Bar Qs&As



## 67Customs (Mar 3, 2005)

*The only things that should be posted in this thread are clay bar questions or clay barring techniques. Everything else will be removed.*
If you ask a good question and it is answered well, I will add it to the first post.
There are a lot of questions on how to use clay bars and if it is safe. Well, both are pretty simple answers. The basics of clay barring is spraying a lube onto the surface and rubbing the clay across that surface and if done properly, it is very safe.
*Why should I clay?*
Claying removes contaminants on the surface that regular washing can not take care of. Claying will even remove particles that pre-wax cleaners cannot get. Claying strips things off the surface, making it naked so to speak, and leaves a fresh, clean surface ready for polishing or waxing. Claying before polishing is a good idea because it removes those particles that could potentially get trapped in your pad and cause unwanted surface marring.
*What can I clay?*
You can pretty much clay any hard, smooth to mostly smooth surface. It is generally meant for use on the painted surface of your vehicles body, but you can use it for the windows, plastic trim, wheels, headlights, taillights, etc… I have been caught claying scuffs off my hardwood floor and dirt particles off of my counter tops.lol
*How often should I clay?*
For your own daily driven vehicle, twice a year is common. Once at the end of summer and once after winter. However, it wouldn’t hurt to clay your vehicle every time you wax. I know people that clay once a month. There is no maximum for how many times you can clay your car, but you should at least clay it once a year. 
If you are detailing for money, it is a good idea to clay before you polish or wax because chances are, the vehicles surface has never seen a clay bar. As mentioned above, claying before you polish is a good because it removes particles off the surface that could potentially get trapped in your pad and cause unwanted surface marring. It will help aid in the wax on/wax off steps and it will also help boost the appearance with little added work.
You can also “spot clay”. If you get some overspray on your paint and the overspray is still somewhat fresh, then claying will take it off easily. If you get a stubborn bird bomb on your roof and a QD and wash will not completely remove it, you can generally clay it off. Anytime you get a stubborn contaminant on your paint, trying to clay it off might be a solution.
*Do I have to do anything after I clay?*
Yes. No only does it strip contaminants off of the surface, it will also strip waxes/sealants that you have previously put on. People generally clay before applying wax anyway, but even when you spot clay, it is a good idea to wax that area.
*Which Clay is best to use?*
This is personal preference. People chose clay for different reasons including, price, brand, availability, etc… There really isn’t a clay that is superior to another. I have used 8 different clay bars from different companies and they all have performed the same. From all the research I have done, most all, if not all, automotive clay is made the same way out of the same ingredients. There are different colors and strengths, but that is about where the differences end. Most locally available clay is a mild clay. You typically can only get aggressive clay by ordering it. The three most common over the counter brands are Meguiar’s, Mothers and Clay Magic. All three work perfectly fine.
*How many uses can I get out of a clay bar?*
You can typically get 3-4 whole car safe uses out of an over the counter bar. A lot depends on where you use it and how dirty your car is. If you keep you car fairly clean and you only use the bar on the body, you could get more uses. If you car is ran like the Dukes of Hazzard Charger, you only wash it once a year and you decide to do your wheels also, you may only get one use before it becomes unsafe.
Always remember, if you drop it on the ground, chunk it and count your loses.
*Where in the detailing process do I clay?*
The best time to use a clay bar is after a wash. If you do it before a wash, you are going to scratch the surface of your car everywhere and you will fall asleep that night crying. If you do it after you wax or polish, it is to late. There are really only two times you should clay. During the wash or right after the wash/dry. I don’t recommend claying while you wash because of two reasons. There can potentially be particles still suspended in the suds on the body panel and some car soaps break some clay bars down. If you decide to clay while you wash, I recommend that you wash the panel, rinse it, wipe soapy water on it again and then clay. You also need to make sure that the soap and your clay bar are compatible.
*How do I use a clay bar?*
If you buy an over the counter clay bar, make sure you read the instructions before proceeding.
Thoroughly wash and dry your vehicle.
Remove the clay bar from the packaging. Tear the clay in half. I do this just in case so if I drop the clay, I haven’t lost the whole bar. Take one half and flatten it into a pancake.
When claying the whole car, a good rule of thumb is to clay from top to bottom, front to back. I usually do it in this order: roof, hood, rear deck lid, front bumper, front fenders, front doors, rear doors, rear quarters, rear bumper and I finish up with the side skirts/rocker panels since they generally get hit with the most debris.
Lube. Most over the counter clay bars come in a system that includes a spray lube. Try to stick with that lube. Never just use water. Always use a proper clay lube when using a clay bar.
To start, mist the first panel with the spray lube just like you would if you were using a Quick Detail spray. For larger panels, divide them in half. You don’t need to soak the panel to make the clay work, but you need to make sure there is enough to make the clay glide. Mist the area and try the clay, if it doesn’t move freely, squirt another mist on the area. Once the panel has been lubed, rub the clay bar across the surface. You will hear and feel gritty sound that will scare you the first time. This is completely normal. It is all the contaminants being removed from the surface. Rub the clay across the surface until you stop feeling and hearing this sound. You will also feel the clay beginning to glide more easily. This is when you know that you can move on.
Once you have clayed the panel, wipe the lube dry with a quality Microfiber towel.
After you have completed two small or one large panel, knead the clay. Fold it in half and reflatten it into a pancake before moving to the next panel.
Complete this over the whole vehicle and you are done and ready to polish or wax.


_Modified by 67Customs at 5:21 PM 8-10-2007_


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## Blacksheepsquad (Mar 25, 2007)

*Re: FAQ/DIY - How To Use A Clay Bar + Clay Bar Qs&As (67Customs)*

It is definitely not necessary to wash your car after claying. You shouldn't need to do this if the products are are used properly and the clay doesn't streak or the lube dry.


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## stofficer2 (Mar 22, 2007)

*Re: FAQ/DIY - How To Use A Clay Bar + Clay Bar Qs&As (67Customs)*

deffently well described directions. thank you for your help.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Erlkonig (Oct 23, 2004)

Excellent post. I have found that I can get a few more cars out of a clay bar than mentioned here. That is usually on cars that are detailed at least once a year. 
If you are in a hurry you can clay a car after washing while it is still wet. You will need to keep spraying it with water to keep it wet. Doing this will reduce the life of the clay bar.


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## 67Customs (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: (Erlkonig)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Erlkonig* »_Excellent post. I have found that I can get a few more cars out of a clay bar than mentioned here. That is usually on cars that are detailed at least once a year.
Not on this one. This this is what the clay looked like after just a 1" section of the hood...








This car was waxed and washed regularly.















That was a 200 gram bar and I tossed it after that one car.
3-4 is just an average, but you are right, if the car is well maintained and taken car of, you will get more uses. Good observation and input. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I think the reason for the 3-4 uses is because people that us it on their personal cars use it for the first time ever and that first time really takes it's toll on the bar and it can only be safely used maybe a couple more times. I just figured that most people that are looking for a Clay Bar DIY/FAQ is using it for that first time.
As for detailers that use them, they may only get 2 or so cars. Especially if they have clients like the one pictured above.
Most people don't take the time to clay twice or more a year like we do.

















_Modified by 67Customs at 8:23 PM 8-28-2007_


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## Erlkonig (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: (67Customs)*








I'd hate to see the whole car.


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## sxedub (Jul 27, 2005)

good write up, thank you!


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## 1.8jb (Jan 19, 2004)

*Re: (67Customs)*

When should you throw away the clay bar? Obviously the bar in the above needs to be discarded. Can you feel contaminaion in the bar itself?


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## SiviK (Jul 15, 2004)

*Re: (1.8jb)*

I have a question. I bought a Mother's clay bar some time ago, I finally cracked it open planning on claying my car for the first time. The spray lube had nearly vanished sitting in a VERY hot garage. I honestly have about 1/3-1/4 of the bottle left without even using it. What else can I use as lube? Just water?


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## 67Customs (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: (SiviK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8jb* »_When should you throw away the clay bar? Obviously the bar in the above needs to be discarded. Can you feel contaminaion in the bar itself?








When it looks like the one pictured above (well, maybe a little less), except all over. IT will begin to feel course when your rub your hands over it. You will also be able to see the large contaminations in it like road tar and such. When there area few of those each time you roll it, then it is probably time to chunck it.
That is one of those things that you can't put an absolte rule and and it is really hard to explain without actually showing someone a bar that is ready to be thrown out.
The next couple of times I use a bar and I get ready to chunck it or turn it into a wheel bar, I will take pictures.

_Quote, originally posted by *SiviK* »_I have a question. I bought a Mother's clay bar some time ago, I finally cracked it open planning on claying my car for the first time. The spray lube had nearly vanished sitting in a VERY hot garage. I honestly have about 1/3-1/4 of the bottle left without even using it. What else can I use as lube? Just water? 
No, you can't use just water.
What car soap do you use? The reason why I ask is because you can use the soapy water as a lube if you have the right soap. I only recommend doing this AFTER you have completely washed the vehicle and filled a new soapy water bucket.
I suggest that you go to an automotive store and buy some basic Meguair's Quick Detailer. It is in a maroon Bottle. OR, if you want to keep it in the Mother's family, you can purchase their Mother's Showtime Quick Detailer and use that as the lube.


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## [email protected] (Apr 21, 2006)

*Re: (67Customs)*

I have the mothers kit. I used the showtime quick detailer spray and it left a milky residue on my car. I just use a spray bottle with soapy water (Meguair's gold class orange soap) now how bad is that? Also you don't want to soak the panel for lube just mist it?


_Modified by [email protected] at 1:12 PM 8-30-2007_


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## 67Customs (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_I have the mothers kit. I used the showtime quick detailer spray and it left a milky residue on my car. I just use a spray bottle with soapy water (Meguair's gold class orange soap) now how bad is that? Also you don't want to soak the panel for lube just mist it?
You might have gotten a bad bottle. I have never had a residue left over from the Mother's Showtime. Did you let it dry to long? Some QDs will leave a residue if you let them sit to long.
There is nothing wrong with using a mixture of water and Gold Class. That is safe. Are you rensing the panel after you spray the Gold Class and water on it though? Letting the soapy water dry on the panel could leave less of a shine on the paint due to the dried soap on the panel. Depends on how concentrated the solution your are using is.
You don't want to soak the panel because you then get to much lubrication. You want enough lube so that the bar can glide across the paint without catching or causing marring, but you don't want to over lube the panel because you are then not letting the bar work to it's potential. You also don't want to waste product.


_Modified by 67Customs at 1:23 PM 8-30-2007_


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## Blacksheepsquad (Mar 25, 2007)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_I have the mothers kit. I used the showtime quick detailer spray and it left a milky residue on my car. I just use a spray bottle with soapy water (Meguair's gold class orange soap) now how bad is that? Also you don't want to soak the panel for lube just mist it?



GC is a fine soap, there are better but it would work for clay lube fore sure.
As far as the amount goes, typically the more the better to avoid marring.


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## Blacksheepsquad (Mar 25, 2007)

*Re: (67Customs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *67Customs* »_
You don't want to soak the panel because you then get to much lubrication. You want enough lube so that the bar can glide across the paint without catching, but you don't want to over lube the panel because you are then not letting the bar work to it's potential.

I don't think you can really use too much b/c it will eventually just run down the panel... gravity wins everytime. Also the clay will pretty much displace the excess when you press on it.
I just don't want someone to spritz one spray on a hood and try to clay everything, the poster said he was already getting streaks, which in my experiance, comes from not using enough lube and the clay it's self hits the paint and smears...


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## 1.8jb (Jan 19, 2004)

*Re: (67Customs)*



67Customs said:


> The next couple of times I use a bar and I get ready to chunck it or turn it into a wheel bar, I will take pictures.
> Thank you. Gonna do the GTI and the Passat this weekend.


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## 74type1 (Apr 21, 2007)

Thanks for the write up. This forum gives a bunch of good, no great, information! Course, it's from all you pro's out there sharing your experiences and knowledge.


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## Erlkonig (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_I have the mothers kit. I used the showtime quick detailer spray and it left a milky residue on my car. I just use a spray bottle with soapy water (Meguair's gold class orange soap) now how bad is that? Also you don't want to soak the panel for lube just mist it?
_Modified by [email protected] at 1:12 PM 8-30-2007_

You either let it sit too long and/or the surface of the car was too hot. Rinse it longer. 

_Quote, originally posted by *SiviK* »_I have a question. I bought a Mother's clay bar some time ago, I finally cracked it open planning on claying my car for the first time. The spray lube had nearly vanished sitting in a VERY hot garage. I honestly have about 1/3-1/4 of the bottle left without even using it. What else can I use as lube? Just water? 

I have used just water, but the car panel has to be very wet ie. just sprayed and I always spray it down after it has been clayed. I recommend this only for cars that have been detailed already and a few spots need to be taken care of. I have done whole cars with water only, but they were in really good shape. If I run my finger across the paint and all I feel is roughness/contamination then I use spray wax after the car has been dried. If I run my finger across the paint and the contamination is spotty or very light I _might _ use water only after I wash. Depends on the car. 

Generally one should follow the directions on the package. Some clay bars state that only their brand of spray should be used. Temperature and humidity is also a factor. If your microfiber is wet with spray wax then switch to a dry one or you will be doing more work than you have to. --might have been covered by 67 already


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## JB#3709 (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: (Erlkonig)*

I was thinking of getting the Meguiars smooth surface clay kit. Is that a good kit? I have never used a clay bar before and I have these clear dots all over my car I think it's tree sap mist. Do i have to use a clay bar to get this off or can a use a tar removing spray to get it off. Thanks for the help


_Modified by JB#3709 at 8:08 PM 8-30-2007_


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## [email protected] (Apr 21, 2006)

Thanks a lot to all that answered.


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## 67Customs (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: (JB#3709)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JB#3709* »_I was thinking of getting the Meguiars smooth surface clay kit. Is that a good kit? I have never used a clay bar before and I have these clear dots all over my car I think it's tree sap mist. Do i have to use a clay bar to get this off or can a use a tar removing spray to get it off. Thanks for the help

Yes, it is a good kit. However, if you can find the Clay Magic kit, I would get that. You get just as good a bar at almost half the price.
Try a bug and tar remover, but for sap, you might have to step up to a clay bar.
Although, if you have never clayed your car before, it would be well worth your investment to get one anyway.


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## 01MomoGTI (Dec 4, 2006)

Is it ok to use on my ViS carbon fiber hood? I dont want to destroy it considering it was $800?


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## 67Customs (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: (01MomoGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *01MomoGTI* »_Is it ok to use on my ViS carbon fiber hood? I dont want to destroy it considering it was $800?
Use enough lube and it should be fine. HOWEVER, I would contact the manufacturer to be sure.
I did a c/f hood once and it was just like working with a painted surface.


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## 01MomoGTI (Dec 4, 2006)

*Re: (67Customs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *67Customs* »_Use enough lube and it should be fine. HOWEVER, I would contact the manufacturer to be sure.
I did a c/f hood once and it was just like working with a painted surface.

cool thanks, the only problem is VIS , is horrible at responding to my E-mails. Thanks though.


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## 67Customs (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: (01MomoGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cdougyfresh* »_Only question I had that i didnt see an answer to in that DIY was how much pressure should you be putting on the bar? I did my hood / roof / deck lid, but used very light pressure because I was nervous about doing damage... 
It took me probably 6 hours to do just these (and I have a TT, its a small car!) 
Am I being too gentle?


_Quote, originally posted by *gliplatinum* »_^^^good question. i would also like to know. 

That is a great question that is hard to answer. You don't want to put a lot of pressure on it, but you also don't want to just let it float either. A nice meduim pressure is best.
I really wish I had an example. Pressure is something that is hard to convey in words. I guess it is like writing with a pen. It you don't put hardly any pressure on it, it wil hardly wright. You will see some fant ink lines. If you bear down to hard, you will tear the paper. It is almost like the pressure you would use to write with. Kinda. The worst the paint contamination is, the harder you want to press.
Also, on spots that are being stubborn, you can always use more pressure to get more aggressive. Just don't do it on the whole panel. Only in the needed areas.
Does that help? 6 hours to clay any normal consumer vehicle definitely sounds like you are being to gentle.

_Quote, originally posted by *cdougyfresh* »_hmm yeah that helps a bit - So I guess I should use as much pressure as I can with it still gliding smoothly? because it seems if i put more than that it will kinda push past the lube and get caught up on the surface
That is a better way of explaining it than what I came up with.lol


_Modified by 67Customs at 4:32 PM 7-15-2008_


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## vr6gti98 (Jan 12, 2005)

*Re: (67Customs)*

i have a clear bra on all of my front bumper and the front of my hood. ive heard others with the clear bra were recommended to wax it but not specific on clay barring. 
i can see how the opposite would make sense. its gonna get grime, dirt, bugs, and everything else being in the front so getting all that off with clay bar would sound right, but to wax it after?


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## Dutchmastr9 (Sep 13, 2004)

*Re: (vr6gti98)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vr6gti98* »_i have a clear bra on all of my front bumper and the front of my hood. ive heard others with the clear bra were recommended to wax it but not specific on clay barring. 
i can see how the opposite would make sense. its gonna get grime, dirt, bugs, and everything else being in the front so getting all that off with clay bar would sound right, but to wax it after? 
 
u can clay a clear bra, i wouldnt wax it because it is not paint and is there to protect ur paint anyway. u just need to be careful around the edges, u dont want to get clay stuck under ur clear bra


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## vr6gti98 (Jan 12, 2005)

*Re: (Dutchmastr9)*

the edges were my main concern. the bra is old and has collected a nice black edge, mainly the piece on my hood. i guess i will see how it goes this weekend.


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## 67Customs (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: (vr6gti98)*

Yea can clay the claer bra and you can wax it. Get you a nice, non-staining wax and go to town. It will help it stay nicer longer.
Clay the edges nice and easy. You don't want it to begin pealing up.


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## himself111 (May 14, 2006)

*Re: (67Customs)*

i actually bookmarked this, perfect resource. I think people should get paid commission for useful posts like this! haha


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## beercan chariot (Jul 31, 2001)

*Re: FAQ/DIY - How To Use A Clay Bar + Clay Bar Qs&As (67Customs)*

this thread is a great resource. i spent 3 hours today with a clay bar for the first time ever and i am really impressed with the results.


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## FliGi7 (May 28, 2007)

"When claying the whole car, a good rule of thumb is to clay from top to bottom, front to back. I usually do it in this order: roof, hood, rear deck lid, front bumper, front fenders, front doors, rear doors, rear quarters, rear bumper and I finish up with the side skirts/rocker panels since they generally get hit with the most debris."
My exact process as well. I also feel this is the best order of operations. 
Great writeup 67Customs (what's your name again btw so I don't have to keep using your SN?). This was long overdue.


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## 67Customs (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: (FliGi7)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FliGi7* »_Great writeup 67Customs (what's your name again btw so I don't have to keep using your SN?). This was long overdue. 
Thanks man. I try. I actually have a few more to post, but I am in the middle of making a new Detailing Forum DIY/FAQ, so I figured I would wait and post them then. Which I think is also lllooonnngggg overdue.
BTW, my real name is Brody.


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## jtrujillo86 (Aug 21, 2005)

Does using a clay bar remove sap? I have been parking under a tree at work since it's been hella hot up here and the last time I washed my car, I felt tiny sap spots all over, even after power washing.
Any ideas? (besides never parking under that tree again)
- Jeremy.


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## FliGi7 (May 28, 2007)

*Re: (jtrujillo86)*

Clay Bar + Isopropyl Alcohol + Tarminator + Time + Patience.
You will need ALL of those if the sap is remotely bad. Good luck


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## jtrujillo86 (Aug 21, 2005)

*Re: (FliGi7)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FliGi7* »_Clay Bar + Isopropyl Alcohol + Tarminator + Time + Patience.
You will need ALL of those if the sap is remotely bad. Good luck









Sorry...I'm a little slow -- how much alcohol and tarminator should I use? How do I apply it? To ALL paint, or just on the wax spots?
Thanks,
- Jeremy.


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## FliGi7 (May 28, 2007)

Douse the areas in the alcohol and/or tarminator. They will not hurt the paint at all. They will simply remove any protection (and hopefully the sap) from your paint. So make sure to wax the areas afterward.


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## mark3bluegolf (Jul 26, 2008)

*Re: (FliGi7)*

Just a quick question do you have to wax after claying im nost sure if I read that or not..
Thanks,
Danny


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## me (Dec 10, 2000)

*Re: (mark3bluegolf)*

If your paint needs no correction, the yes you can add protection like wax (or sealant).


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## mark3bluegolf (Jul 26, 2008)

*Re: (me)*


_Quote, originally posted by *me* »_If your paint needs no correction, the yes you can add protection like wax (or sealant).

What do you mean by correction?


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## me (Dec 10, 2000)

*Re: (mark3bluegolf)*

Swirls and scratches.


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## mark3bluegolf (Jul 26, 2008)

*Re: (me)*


_Quote, originally posted by *me* »_Swirls and scratches.

And if I have those what should I do...I know I a few scratches from the wife using an ice scraper on the car...so what I can I do for that?

I also have waxed the car with these scratches on the car already...is that bad?


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## jtrujillo86 (Aug 21, 2005)

*Re: (mark3bluegolf)*

Today I picked up a Maguire's Clay Bar (80 gram, IIRC) and some Zymol wax...and my car looks BEAUTIFUL. I would have snapped some pictures, but I just finished and it's dark outside. It turns out the clay bar removed most of the sap spots and everything else. Though my car is less than a year old and is washed and waxed regularly, the clay bar was DISGUSTING when I was done. I decided just to chuck it. 
Overall I'm really happy with the clay bar method. Every car I've had has been waxed regularly, but this is my first time using clay. I don't think I'll ever wax my car again without claying it first. It was pretty quick and painless, too.
Anyway, thanks for the advice about the alcohol, even though I didn't use it. I'll keep it in mind if I ever have a bad sap problem again.
- Jeremy.


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## jtrujillo86 (Aug 21, 2005)

Can someone clue me in as to what the significance of the weight is? For example, I used an 80 gram bar on my car. Is it better to use a 200 gram bar or say...a 60 gram bar? What's the difference?
- Jeremy.


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## me (Dec 10, 2000)

*Re: (jtrujillo86)*

Large weights just refers to a larger size block. If you only clay once a year or two, then you don't need much. But for people who detail often (or more than one car), it's nice to be able to buy a larger block and just break off the amount you need per detailing event.


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## 67Customs (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: (me)*

Also, if you do buy a larger bar, it is good to cut it in half or fourths. That way, if you drop it, you don't waste the whole bar. I also find it easier to work with a smaller bar.


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## VWADDICTDSCR (Aug 4, 2007)

*Re: (67Customs)*

Just read through this entire post. Thanks to the original poster i'm going to definitely be using this post to get my GTi looking it's best for the spring


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## 67Customs (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: (VWADDICTDSCR)*

Glad to hear people are sill reading it. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## CdnCorrado (Jul 2, 2004)

*Re: FAQ/DIY - How To Use A Clay Bar + Clay Bar Qs&As (67Customs)*

Excellent post Brody. 
We non-pros appreciate the "detail" (no pun intended) that you pros include in these types of posts. Never be reluctant to state the obvious ...what is obvious to pros like you is often far from obvious for guys like me.
Thanks 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 67Customs (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: FAQ/DIY - How To Use A Clay Bar + Clay Bar Qs&As (CdnCorrado)*

No problem Kelly. I'm just happy to help.


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## TheLateGTI (Apr 17, 2008)

*Re: FAQ/DIY - How To Use A Clay Bar + Clay Bar Qs&As (67Customs)*

also you can take a plastic bag and run it over the car when your done claying to see if it still has **** on it that you could have missed with clay.
if you clayed everything then the plastic bag should run over the car as if it were glass and that you cant feel the contaminents


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## menace1930 (Jun 7, 2005)

*Re: FAQ/DIY - How To Use A Clay Bar + Clay Bar Qs&As (TheLateGTI)*

Thanks for the input http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Just picked up the Mothers Kit from my local Autozone. I will be doing my first real detail this coming week and I have been putting all this info together mentally for when I am in the process. This will also be the first time I use my PC so we will see how it goes.


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## Arsigi (Oct 1, 2003)

*Re: FAQ/DIY - How To Use A Clay Bar + Clay Bar Qs&As (menace1930)*

I was looking into this for this weekend as well, thanks for the nice write-up. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Question: clay is billed as a product that gets things that pre-wax paint cleaners do not. Does it therefore eliminate the need for such cleaners? For years I have used the Mequiar's 3-step process of Paint Cleaner/Polish/Wax. Should one still use the Paint Cleaner, perhaps before the clay bar, in order to get larger contaminents off?


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## 67Customs (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: FAQ/DIY - How To Use A Clay Bar + Clay Bar Qs&As (Arsigi)*

While the claybar picks up items that cleaner can't get, the cleaner also cleans off residue that the clay bar leaves behind. They really are a one-two punch when it comes to having perfectly clean paint.
I would, and do, continue to use both.
The cleaner should be used after the clay bar.


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## Arsigi (Oct 1, 2003)

*Re: FAQ/DIY - How To Use A Clay Bar + Clay Bar Qs&As (67Customs)*

Ah, I see. Thanks! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## xedoutdaorda (Mar 13, 2007)

*Re: FAQ/DIY - How To Use A Clay Bar + Clay Bar Qs&As (67Customs)*

bump


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## otti (Jun 30, 2007)

*FV-QR*

since i cant buy a real clay bar here in berlin, i sourced the "brand new" meguiars clay bay replacement!
i needet to order that too








the instructions sait to use meg´s quick detail as lubricant....
so i went and washed the car trice before i used it and i was surprised how much dirt came of my paint!!!
BUT here the problem the quick detailer left a lot of stains that i needet to wipe off before i went on to wax the car, to say i was angry is an understatement since i needed one more step to get the whole car clean.








does every lubricant leave stains like i got??


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## 67Customs (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (otti)*

Not generally. However, some quick detailers do leave streaks if applied to thickly or on a warm panel. I have a problem with Meguiar's Last Touch leaving streaks.
Did you do this in the sun?


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## otti (Jun 30, 2007)

*FV-QR*

no in the shadow but the temperature was about 95 i guess...
is there any difference between a "clay bar" and a "clay bar replacement"??
i can not buy or order a clay bar here


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## 67Customs (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (otti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *otti* »_no in the shadow but the temperature was about 95 i guess...
is there any difference between a "clay bar" and a "clay bar replacement"??
That might have been your problem. Some quick detailers are finicky.
There isn't a difference, that I can tell, with the Meguiar's clay bar that comes in the kit and the clay bar replacements. You will be fine.


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## aging_fleet (Jun 22, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (67Customs)*

One question about using claybar on a black car.
Assuming my clay isn't contaminated, the car is clean, and ample lube is used, do I need to worry about visible marring from the claybar? A better way to put it may be, is claybar abrasive enough to leave light scratches on the surface of a black car that I'll have to polish out prior to wax? 
tia


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## 67Customs (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (CowtownDub)*

If you are using an OTC clay bar in the circumstance you suggested, then no, it shouldn't scratch the surface. They do make more agressive clay bars that you can buy online that will mar the paint a little. They are meant for being used prior to polishing.
I'm not going to say 100% no though. Something can always go wrong. I have seen it happen on soft paints.


_Modified by 67Customs at 2:09 PM 7-2-2009_


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## aging_fleet (Jun 22, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (67Customs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *67Customs* »_If you are using an OTC clay bar in the circumstance you suggested, then no, it shouldn't scratch the surface. They do make more agressive clay bars that you can buy online that will mar the paint a little. They are meant for being used prior to polishing.
I'm not going to say 100% no though. Something can always go wrong. I have seen it happen on soft paints.


Appreciate the response.


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## WEvdub (Jul 10, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (67Customs)*

Thanks for the great write-up, it was really helpful. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I'm nuts about keeping my car immaculate







.. more fuel for the fire!


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## 67Customs (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (WEvdub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WEvdub* »_Thanks for the great write-up, it was really helpful. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I'm nuts about keeping my car immaculate







.. more fuel for the fire! 
You are very welcome.
When it comes to keeping cars immaculate, there is always fuel to add to the fire.lol


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## GTI 4 ME (Oct 1, 2003)

i just clayed my car for the first time. I know i'm supposed to apply some wax now. Question is should i apply a megs cleaner wax or nxt 2.0?


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## VW_Calvin (May 8, 2008)

*Re: (GTI 4 ME)*

I found a cleaner wax after a clay gave my car an awesome smooth feel, it came in the Meguiars Smooth Surface kit I bought. But NXT 2.0 is the best 'off the shelf' wax you can get!
Was it your first time clay barring? cause then I'd do the cleaner wax, to help remove more contaminents. If you've done it a few times, I'd use NXT


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## 67Customs (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: (GTI 4 ME)*

I would purchase the Meguiar's Deep Crystal Step 1 Paint Cleaner.
Apply and remove the paint cleaner.
Then, apply NXT 2.0.
That will give you good looks and better durability vs just using the cleaner wax.


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## 860redrabbit (Dec 5, 2006)

just wanted to say thanks for this! Been reading this detailing forum while im at work(shh!!) and have found a ton of usefull information!
im a basic home "car washer" i wouldnt considering myself a detailer yet. I have some tools of the trade, but not a pro by any means. Alot of great advice in this thread, and others.


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## jmorales (Mar 4, 2009)

^^^ agree. Amateur here, but have been reading non-stop ever since purchasing my own car. glad it happened to be an audi. will never make mistakes like i used to with backyard washing. Have begun using a few tools of the trade. purchased my first clay kit and did just the hood of my car. waiting for a good weekend day to do the whole car and then wax. 
Keep up the great info everyone and thank you so much for contributing to this forum.


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## 67Customs (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: (jmorales)*

Thanks guys.


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## skotti (Sep 27, 2005)

Great thread for a newb at clay bar, like me. 
I have a question (tried to search  ): 
If I have paint chips on my hood, do I clay first, then fill in the chips, then wax? And if so, I'm guessing I'll have to wash the car again, after filling in the chips and waiting for the paint to harden? 
TIA :beer:


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## Jesstzn (Apr 21, 2003)

Clay, clean out chips and area with rubbing alcohol, fill chips till happy then wax unless its been a while then wash/wax.


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## BFalk628 (Dec 30, 2012)

I'm only 18 years old and just recently learned about the clay bar and was wondering if after i wash and clay bar my car will a quick spray wax protect the paint well enough after claying? and my front bumper has clear coat chips, should i avoid the claying the bumper until i can get the clearcoat fixed? Thanks in advance


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## Jesstzn (Apr 21, 2003)

BFalk628 said:


> I'm only 18 years old and just recently learned about the clay bar and was wondering if after i wash and clay bar my car will a quick spray wax protect the paint well enough after claying? and my front bumper has clear coat chips, should i avoid the claying the bumper until i can get the clearcoat fixed? Thanks in advance


Well a spray wax depending on what it is can be no more than a glorified Quick Detail spray ... Your better off using a real wax/sealant. Spray ones don't last all that long. 

As for claying the bumper .. if there is a lot of chips don't bother ... but claying won't hurt anything. Dont expect it to remove bugs ,.


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## BFalk628 (Dec 30, 2012)

Thanks Jesstzn, I claybarred my car and used the spray wax for now but plan to fully wax it in the next few days the spray should be fine until the weekend:beer:


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## sicklyscott (Jun 24, 2002)

Can you shed some light on the different levels of aggressiveness with clay bars and when to use the more aggressive types?


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## Mr. Angier (May 18, 2010)

The two most common grades of clay are fine grade and medium grade. I use fine grade on all my customer's cars and never really found a need to have to use medium grade. I guess if a car has never been washed and has built up a lot of contamination, then a medium grade would have to be used. Be careful with medium grade though. It will most likely produce marring in the paint (haze) that will have to be polished out. I've even had to polish areas using a fine grade clay but it rarely happens.


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