# Pento vs Motul



## montece0000 (Feb 8, 2008)

Pento vs Motul. Which one is better for a 85k mileage?


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## tungub (Apr 7, 2007)

Either one should work fine. Might be easier to find M1 0W40, though, depending on where you are.

robert


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## rhouse181 (Apr 13, 2008)

Which Pento and which Motul are you attempting to compare?


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## rickjaguar (Apr 23, 2009)

In all honesty- the OCI is more important than the oil you choose. I'm trying out a few new oils (to me) and performance-wise there doesn't seem to be much difference.. other than how they resist burning. 
The real key will be comparing both oils' UOA after running the same OCI.


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## saaber2 (Jul 15, 2008)

montece0000 said:


> Pento vs Motul. Which one is better for a 85k mileage?


In what application? In the 2.0 FSI for example most PAO-based 502 oils perform very similarly. 

What formulation are you considering? As brands, Pentosin and Motul are both good oils and should perform well in a non-demanding application. I personally wouldn't use them in a fuel-diluting DI turbo application except perhaps Motul 300V or X-lite 0w30 which has a higher ester content than say the 8100 series oils.


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## rickjaguar (Apr 23, 2009)

saaber2 said:


> I personally wouldn't use them in a fuel-diluting DI turbo application except perhaps Motul 300V or X-lite 0w30 which has a higher ester content than say the 8100 series oils.


Um, i'm going to disagree on this one here. 300V is formulated for tracking use (super high engine temps) but that will not provide any better protection than the 8100 Motul (under normal, daily driving use). 

Saaber, i've read all your UOA's and i don't think you've yet used 300V or the 0W30 Motul. I know you love Redline and everything ester-based, but seriously..

My mechanic (also a mkv owner), and avid tracker (Porsches), his shop carried Motul and when i asked about 300V he laughed at the idea of using it for daily driving... reason: waste of money! Normal driving doesn't generate engine temps that tracking does.

Ester-based IS a superior formula.. but that doesn't mean that a group III based oil is inadequate by any means.


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## saaber2 (Jul 15, 2008)

That's why I said in a non-demanding application. In a non-demanding application the 8100 and pento may do fine but personally I wouldn't use it in DI turbo 2.0 FSI, a very demanding application even if the car never sees the track. 

Some reasons why I wouldn't use it in a demanding application are:

1.Volatility (ester based deals with heat better and holds up to fuel dilution better, based on the UOAs), 
2. Expected quality and quantity of viscosity improvers (Ester base stock may mean less viscosity improvers are needed with ester based and one would expect the more expensive 300V and X-lite 0W30 to use higher quality viscosity improvers),
3. Oxidation resistance (ester-based typically is better than PAO-based),
4. Coking performance (see pic below). 

We have over 70 UOAs that show the 2.0 FSI destroys oils quickly. We also have expert advice from tribologists that say the same thing.

We all have to decide based on what we know. I don't know what your mechanic is basing his recommendations on. For myself I am basing it on teardowns I have seen of turbo cars that have used ester based all their life and teardowns of turbo and non-turbo engines that have used conventional and group III/PAO synthethic. I am also basing my conclusions on real world performance of over 70 UOAs for the 2.0 FSI engine. I am also basing it on input from tribologists who have done engine testing for one of the biggest synthetic oil companies for over 15 years. The more info. we have, the better conclusions we can make. Again, perhaps your mechanic is more knowledgeable about the differences of PAO and ester-based oils in a high temp/high stress application, I don't know. And of course everyone is free to use whatever oil they want in whatever application. 

Again, my statement was about demanding applications, but switching back to less demanding applications, you said that 300V would not provide better protection than 8100. I am wondering how you know that? Teadowns, UOAs, other? Temperature is not the only thing to consider in an oils performance in wear control, shearing, resistance to coking, oxidation, and other factors.


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## rickjaguar (Apr 23, 2009)

You do your research and i respect that. I'm also looking for the best possible oil to use in the "demanding" 2.0T.
My mechanic works on "demanding" Porsche & BMW engines and tracks a GT3 (quite a bit more demanding than a 2.0T). THe 300V discussion (as i was told) went like this- it's quite a bit more expensive and it's good oil, but it isn't worth it when all you do is just drive around town. Even a HARD street driver won't generate the same engine heat (that tracking does). Oh, and it doesn't have the detergent additives like their street-formulated oils do. 
300V isn't VW approved, either. Now i KNOW you scoff at approvals but consider it this way- Motul DOES pay for the certifications for its oils and if 300V was approved then they could promote this more expensive oil (and make more money in the process).
If you are concerned about you car's oil-abuse, then change it sooner. Drop that OCI down to 6000 or 5000km. I use a quality oil (that i've had an OCI done for). No, it's not a group V, but the analysis shows me that 8000km OCIs are perfect.
And that's a consensus I fully support.


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## montece0000 (Feb 8, 2008)

I have a 1.8 T...i been using Motul Specific 8100 and I need to change my oil but the shop i get it at has been out of them for the last 3 weeks...sooo I dont want to rely on one shop for oil. Thats why i wanna branch out and see whats better.....Motul confuses me with all the different brands...


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## saaber2 (Jul 15, 2008)

Many Porsche and BMW engines are easy on oil. F.E. my old boxster S 3.2 L was very easy on oil and had almost a 10 quart sump! My current BMW V8 engine is extremely easy on oil and has a 8 quart sump. These are not in any way comparable to the abuse the 5 qt sump, fuel diluting, DI, turbo 2.0 FSI churns out. The GT3 may be a different story I don't know. Or if he is talking about the BMW 3 L TT DI or the newer V12 DI then those would be demanding applications that have fuel dilution issues.


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## rickjaguar (Apr 23, 2009)

OP: 
I tried Motul 8100 x-clean 5W40 in my ex- 2003 vr6 GLI. I didn't get an analysis done but i could tell right away that the engine sounded and pulled way smoother than the previous jambalaya of oils that my ex was putting in there. And (at that time) her mileage was at 95000mi. 

I liked that Motul and if i can find a source locally i will try it out in my car. 
Like i said before- if you're concerned about either the oil strength or your higher mileage engine, just shorten the OCI.


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