# Vr6 Turbo Build



## Coolcorey1218 (May 14, 2015)

Hey VWVortex. I made an account a long time ago but this is my first post and i am very new to this.

I have a 2001 Vw Jetta 12v vr6.
Iv been doing research for quite a long time to understand the vr6 engine and the geometry of it but i am looking for some expert advice now.
I am looking to produce about 300hp for starters, but i know when i get a taste of the power ill want more, so im looking to max at 500hp.
Its going to be a street car as well as track. Please give me your input on what i have or any tips i may be missing.

Head wise im going to have:
Techtonincs 268 cams
High lifter valve springs
39mm Hiflow intake valves
34mm Hiflow exhaust valves
7mm Intake guides <--
7mm Stem seals <-- If you believe I am wasting money on these items 
Lightweight Lifters <-- Please notify me
Valve keepers <-- 
Titanium Retainers <--
New South Power intake manifold Gasket 

Intake will be a short runner Technix Intake Manifold with stock Throttle Body plus a Throttle Body Spacer for clearance and plenum purposes.
I will have the Intake, Throttle Body and Head mildly ported to where all of the airflow is continuous and the same. 
Throttle body spacer has the ability to add a future water/meth kit that i will be looking into.

Block
JE Forged piston set 82mm bore 9:1 Compression Ratio
Metal Head Gasket
Forged rods
ARP bolts on everything

Exhaust will be a 3 inch techtonics catback exhaust

Questions.. can i use a stock crankshaft?
What else needs to be done to the block?
Whats the best turbo kit for a built and tuned engine to give me fast acceleration but still keep it street safe and still fun?
And any important info i should know going into this project?


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## 24vGTiVR6 (Sep 14, 2010)

*Can you use stock crank?* Yes use the stock crank, it's very strong from factory.

*What else needs to be done to the block?* You'll probably do this anyway but grab new main & rod bearings and oil pump drive shaft bearings. Also (again you'll probably already do this) but main studs and head studs are definitely good ideas too.

*Any important info?* Get an aluminum crack (water) pipe, replace thermostat housing and get a new thermostat, replace old water pump with the newer version (metal impeller blades vs the old plastic version), replace all timing chain components (chains, guides, tensioners). The timing chains are NOT lifetime items as many of us know, so it would be a VERY good idea to replace all those components if adding forced induction to the mix.

Also just to add I would definitely get new stem seals if you are going through all the trouble of new valves / cams etc. Don't skip that, it isn't worth it.


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## Coolcorey1218 (May 14, 2015)

Great! Thank you for the info! I already planned on doing the regular maintenance stuff and upgrade all cooling components.
A couple more questions... What if im just wanting to run it n/a to break in the motor and make sure its running good before i add more factors that can cause problems.
Can i run it n/a with the engine fully built and short runner intake on stock tune?
Do you think i will have any clearance issues with the pistons and valves hitting after i get the block and head resurfaced? (using stock size valves)


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## 24vGTiVR6 (Sep 14, 2010)

Make a decision before you build it. U can't be in the middle and be effective with either one. Either build it for boost or stay n/a.

When you break it in don't hit boost (just use your right foot accordingly). Do a lot of engine breaking and casual revs for the first oil dump after startup (ideally with break in oil - I use brad penn green stuff). Breaking in n/a motor and f/I motor is essentially the same - so this shouldn't be a factor. 

If your engine builder knows what he is doing then no, you shouldn't have clearance problems. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## 1slovrt (Aug 18, 2015)

If you are only trying to make 300 wheel thats overkill. you can make 500 wheel on a stock bottom end but dont advise it. The crank and connecting rods are forged, the pistons are cast. Get yourself a headspacer from 4 seasons tuning to drop that compression to 9:1 and save yourself a lot of time and money. Take your engine to a machinist and get everything balanced out with that money i just saved you. If you have ever noticed who has the fastest cars at the track they are usually owned or sponsored by a machine shop.(Just somthing i noticed). 
Then you should replace your main bearings etc as was mentioned. Dont forget abt upgrading your trans (gearing has alot to do with how fast or quick you want to go and even affects how your turbo spools), get better cv axels. What good is a fast car if you cant go fast bc you snap axels and strip gears. And invest in a good turbo. Just get a garrett. And get a badass tune.
build your house on a solid foundation.


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## 12V_VR (Aug 11, 2010)

what "1slovrt" said, the specs you listed is way overkill for 500hp. Just get a headspacer and with the **** ton of money you saved, spend it on proper tuning and stronger transmission components.


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## Ephry73 (Feb 18, 2002)

I have always felt that a great turbo motor starts with a great bottom end and a solid foundation. You can have everything balanced and mic'd to spec as suggested and this goes a long long way. The tenant work will keep it healthy as well. Keep posting.


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## 24vGTiVR6 (Sep 14, 2010)

500 hp VRT, with stock internals, will only last so long. mine lasted ~3 yrs, but my stock motor had only 90k km's on it. then, boom.

build it, and enjoy it for many years without headaches. that's the way I look at it. I'd rather spend my $$$ on high quality rods and pistons etc then a junkyard motor every ~12-24 months and the headaches / labour that goes with swapping all that crap over constantly. eventually you'll get fed up with swapping bottom ends and it'll be another car in the backyard that just collects dirt and rust instead of going fast and looking good.

all depends how you look at it, though. 500hp stock VRT are NOT invincible as some may claim. those with actual experience in the matter will tell you differently.

and, the OP stated at first 300hp, then he will probably go max 500hp. so you have to assume the worst case scenario here.


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## zwogti (Jan 11, 2004)

Before I even give you any advice I need to know how you will put the 500hp to the ground with a front wheel drive car and a good spool up street turbo? first thing is figuring this out with what tires, clutch and tranny? 
Your O2J tranny won't hold for too long with 500HP.
Now if you are not going that high in HP than everything else is easy.
why are you replacing the valves?


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