# Dynamat/sub+amp questions



## MO.SLIM (Jul 21, 2008)

First off, I did try the FAQ and search sections, but my questions were still unanswered. I am pretty new to the vortex and even newer to stereo installs, so please bear with me. 
I plan to add a sub to my monsooon system (03 GTI). Since I mostly listen to hip hop I'm looking at using a ported or bandpass box (if i get bandpass i'll buy it prefabricated since they're hard to make), and the subs i've been looking at are at the 400W RMS range. I'm gonna have professionals install it, or at least help me install it. Here are some questions I have:
-What do you guys recommend in terms of deadening? Dynamat in the hatch? In the doors as well? not needed at all? I'm not expecting competition sound, just a clean bump without crazy rattling.
-I currently have an optima red top battery, do I need something different? what about capacitors, I've heard contradicting things about them... do I need one?
I really appreciate any help, and if flaming will make you feel tough, feel free!


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## Jeepr21 (Jul 28, 2004)

*Re: Dynamat/sub+amp questions (MO.SLIM)*

I ran a 600Watt amp and my lights would dim on hard hits, I think anything above 500W though should get a Cap... someone correct me if i'm wrong. and in terms of the dynamat stuff... i've never used it as it only adds weight to the car... but if i was to use it, I would look for any area's that have wires, and large flat pieces of metal as those will be the flexing pieces... also the only rattle i would get wiht my mk2 jetta was the black plastic on the exterior of the trunk... never used any dynamat stuff. and your battery is plenty good. I'm running an interstate i think... or diehard... and it works fine.... and FYI... ported boxes are very boomy sounding... a sealed inclosure is best for crisp thumps (sounds to me that it was your really looking for... I listen to hiphop /punk)
I'm sure many will agree to disagree with me about every aspect. 
and the feel free to flame... You suck







haha


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## JDriver1.8t (May 20, 2005)

*Re: Dynamat/sub+amp questions (MO.SLIM)*

It is very easy to add subs to a monsoon system. You should look at a ported box, not bandpass. Bandpass are good for one note wonders, but nor for music. (yes, I know, not really accurate). 
I recommend a sound deadener in the hatch, and the spare tub. There will be less road noise, vibration, and keep the sound in. I have two layers in my hatch.
Your red top battery is fine. If the system is wire properly you won't have dimming, especially in your power range. Capacitors are a band-aid, and can make improvements while only covering up a much larger problem and creating another load on your system. Don't buy one, but if you get one for free no one will argue.


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## MO.SLIM (Jul 21, 2008)

Thanks for the quick replies guys http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Sounds like sealed or ported is the way to go for me. I'm only judging based on a few times i heard other ppls subs, but i'll have to test them out with my music to get a better idea.
If anyone else has an opinion post away!


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## Josein06GLI (Jun 29, 2008)

dont waste ur cash on dynamat that crap sucks, yes i said it. use old rags and stuff them in places where u can hear the rattles. dynamat is glued on or some of that crap is self adhesive that crap wears off depending what kinda weather u got where i live. i used egg carton and rags to stuff in my door and taped all lose wires to something before i stuffed the car like a thanksgiving turkey and i dont rattle at ALL, read si to see whats in the trunk. also dynamat is hella pricey and imm all about DIY but thats on you


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## 98 a4 (Sep 17, 2008)

*Re: (Josein06GLI)*

As for the box I would get one that has ports but has the inserts to close the ports so you can test out what you like best....and the capacitor I don't think you'll need one yet but when you do install it and your lights dim I would highly reccomend getting one...haha and dynamat does add some weight but if you don't plan on "racing" then go for it...as for the "old rags" and "socks" (haha) if guess thats the ghetto way to go ....good luck with the install


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## pwnt by pat (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: Dynamat/sub+amp questions (MO.SLIM)*

search "sound deadener"


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## "RON" (Aug 4, 2008)

*Re: (98 a4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *98 a4* »_As for the box I would get one that has ports but has the inserts to close the ports so you can test out what you like best....and the capacitor I don't think you'll need one yet but when you do install it and your lights dim I would highly reccomend getting one...haha and dynamat does add some weight but if you don't plan on "racing" then go for it...as for the "old rags" and "socks" (haha) if guess thats the ghetto way to go ....good luck with the install

DAMN... Stop giving advice!
Not any box is going to work. Different sub have different needs. Capacitors are a joke. CAPACITORS DO NOT ADD POWER, they are storage. I would be willing to bet these people that have dimming issues have not upgrade there grounds on there battery. Have you upgraded the big 3 under the hood? I die a little bit inside every time I look under someones hood and see a huge power wire coming out and they are still using that little tiny ground wire that came from the factory. 
I like to deaden but i am more of a spot treater. I know lot of people that do two and three layer worth of extreme dynomat, but that is way to overboard for my uses. If you plan on going all out on deading make sure to ONLY get a BUTYL based product. Technology has moved on; no need to have your ride smell like resurfaced asphalt! Raam mat is a decent budget brand. Rick is a great guy and loves to talk audio and truely stands behind his product.


_Modified by "RON" at 12:40 PM 9-18-2008_


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

*Re: ("RON")*

I would definitely dynamat the trunk if you are going to put a sub in it. It will keep the bass in the car versus having everyone on the block hear you coming.


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## lancelotlink (Jan 15, 2008)

*Re: (Josein06GLI)*

Egg cartons? You must live in the desert?


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## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: ("RON")*

I will agree with Ron, I personally have installed back in the day the old asphalt based Dynamat. And it was a Bish to keep it stuck to a surface, you had to prep the crap out of it. It was still pricey and work alright, but was a pain.
Recently I had layed some Raamat down in my hatch area of my corrado. The Butyl based sound deadner is much easier to work with and works well. It also help cut down on my TT Exhaust drone. 
Raamat is a great product for the price. If it makes you feel better paying out the arse for the other stuff, then more power to ya.


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## "RON" (Aug 4, 2008)

*Re: (Non_Affiliated)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Non_Affiliated* »_I will agree with Ron, I personally have installed back in the day the old asphalt based Dynamat. And it was a Bish to keep it stuck to a surface, you had to prep the crap out of it. It was still pricey and work alright, but was a pain.
Recently I had layed some Raamat down in my hatch area of my corrado. The Butyl based sound deadner is much easier to work with and works well. It also help cut down on my TT Exhaust drone. 
Raamat is a great product for the price. If it makes you feel better paying out the arse for the other stuff, then more power to ya. 

Dynamat is Butyl based as well... It is just expensive! If money is no object though damplifier / damplifier pro is the best IMO... And you pay for the best!
For me and I am no SQ pro... Raam Mat is perfect... And they give you a **** load!


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## pwnt by pat (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: ("RON")*

I was just laying more raammat down last night after work, 1:30 am in the parking lot. I prefer multiple layers of thinner mat like Raam. You can always build the thickness up and thinner mat is easier to lay and cut.


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## "RON" (Aug 4, 2008)

*Re: (pwnt by pat)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pwnt by pat* »_I was just laying more raammat down last night after work, 1:30 am in the parking lot. I prefer multiple layers of thinner mat like Raam. You can always build the thickness up and thinner mat is easier to lay and cut.

Agreed. But for me one layer on large flat areas is enough for any of my uses. I do however love these "speaker tweekers" from Second skin. I noticed a huge difference in the way it made my 6's sound in my Civic (basic two way system for 50-75 watts up front). IMO the more wattage the more deading! 
http://www.secondskinaudio.com...t.php


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## pwnt by pat (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: ("RON")*

Oh the concept is simple and proven. Gotta love egg crate foam. Just so much more convenient using those pads than foam. Partsexpress has the same thing, called delflex pads. About the same price I think.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...02516
edit: cheaper and carried them for years if I recall...


_Modified by pwnt by pat at 10:57 AM 9-19-2008_


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## "RON" (Aug 4, 2008)

*Re: (pwnt by pat)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pwnt by pat* »_Oh the concept is simple and proven. Gotta love egg crate foam. Just so much more convenient using those pads than foam. Partsexpress has the same thing, called delflex pads. About the same price I think.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...02516
edit: cheaper and carried them for years if I recall...

_Modified by pwnt by pat at 10:57 AM 9-19-2008_

I have seen different one but only used the second skin's one. I am about to tear apart my doors... I have terrible rattle that is driving me insane! I might have to use these... You know if I am going to open the panel on a new car might as well do it right!


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## pwnt by pat (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: ("RON")*

Or do it again later - that's where the fun is! I can't count how many times I've opened my front doors. Need more than two hands for each. The rear doors, only once so far - to put in brushed door pulls! hah. That'll change when I grab a thread-setter and pop some amps in the doors.


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## "RON" (Aug 4, 2008)

*Re: (pwnt by pat)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pwnt by pat* »_Or do it again later - that's where the fun is! I can't count how many times I've opened my front doors. Need more than two hands for each. The rear doors, only once so far - to put in brushed door pulls! hah. That'll change when I grab a thread-setter and pop some amps in the doors.

Obviously I an new to the site and my "2008 gli", is there a place on here where you posted your build... I want to see!
I just hate pulling door panels. But from a quick glance they look to be pretty easy.


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## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: ("RON")*


_Quote, originally posted by *"RON"* »_
I just hate pulling door panels. But from a quick glance they look to be pretty easy.

It is some much easier having a good set of upholstery/Trim removal tools.


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## Josein06GLI (Jun 29, 2008)

*Re: (lancelotlink)*

not egg cartons goon, that mattress crap thats like an 1'' thick that crap is foldable, bendable and significantly cheaper than self adhesive dynamat plus it never wears out. i dont rattle 1 bit with my setup and its cost efficient. maybe ghetto, its only ghetto cuz i told you guys about it, its what keep the trunk from sounding like 79 impala on those 26'' rims and lift kits


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## MO.SLIM (Jul 21, 2008)

*Re: (Non_Affiliated)*

Thanks for the addtional comments guys http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I was in cancun for a week, but have read through them now. 
Don't think i'll go with the egg carton and foam idea, I'm willing to spend a bit for quality, thanks for the suggestion though.
Raamat seems to be a good value, is it best to order online? I don't really know of anwhere to get it locally.


_Quote, originally posted by *Non_Affiliated* »_
It is some much easier having a good set of upholstery/Trim removal tools.

can you order these tools online?


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## MO.SLIM (Jul 21, 2008)

*Re: (Josein06GLI)*

I'm surprised you didnt go with a self adhesive mat cause you seem to have $$ if your driving a 
"Black 2006 VW JETTA GLI DSG with leather seats and sunroof. 19'' black zenettis with 245/35/19 michelins with alpine deck and big JL Audio 12's in a sealed box and jl amps, and forge spacer.intake"


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## pwnt by pat (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: (MO.SLIM)*

deadening mat works differently than egg crate foam. They serve two completely different purposes.
Raammat, to my knowledge, can only be bought online.
http://www.raamaudio.com


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## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: (Josein06GLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Josein06GLI* »_not egg cartons goon, that mattress crap thats like an 1'' thick that crap is foldable, bendable and significantly cheaper than self adhesive dynamat plus it never wears out. i dont rattle 1 bit with my setup and its cost efficient. maybe ghetto, its only ghetto cuz i told you guys about it, its what keep the trunk from sounding like 79 impala on those 26'' rims and lift kits









It works well for keeping interior panels from vibrating against each other, and absorbing noise. But it does not mass load a big piece of sheetmetal and keep it from vibrating.



_Modified by Non_Affiliated at 11:58 AM 2-17-2009_


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## "RON" (Aug 4, 2008)

*Re: (pwnt by pat)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pwnt by pat* »_deadening mat works differently than egg crate foam. They serve two completely different purposes.[/url]

Egg crate work as closed cell stuff. I have used egg crate, but after I did a good layer of asphalt (never again will I use any asphalt stuff).

_Quote, originally posted by *pwnt by pat* »_
Raammat, to my knowledge, can only be bought online.
http://www.raamaudio.com

Or give them a call... Rick is a great guy. Tell him what your doing and he will tell you how much you need. But you can never go wrong buying a a roll. 
PS... MAKE SURE IT IS THE "BTX" RAAM MAT.


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## Josein06GLI (Jun 29, 2008)

i agree and disagree with the dynamat, it looks nice if people are actually checking out the inside under the carpet of your trunk, but no one see thats. i have everything so tucked you would wonder why i dont vibrate the trunk off until i tell you what i did. PS i was also on a budget. ive seen people spend 2-300 bucks on dynamat and that crap fails after 3 weeks? now where is that cash.... down the drain


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## "RON" (Aug 4, 2008)

*Re: (Josein06GLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Josein06GLI* »_i agree and disagree with the dynamat, it looks nice if people are actually checking out the inside under the carpet of your trunk, but no one see thats. i have everything so tucked you would wonder why i dont vibrate the trunk off until i tell you what i did. PS i was also on a budget. ive seen people spend 2-300 bucks on dynamat and that crap fails after 3 weeks? now where is that cash.... down the drain

FAILS? please explain. I know if you don't properly put it on it could peel off. I did my whole civic on half a roll of Raam BTX and a roll is like 150?


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## MO.SLIM (Jul 21, 2008)

*Re: (Non_Affiliated)*

I think I'm gonna buy a roll of raamat. Checked out the website in detail and it looks like some great stuff for a great price. 
Still wondering though, where can I buy some trim removal tools









edit: saw some on partsexpress.com but not sure whats best for VW


_Modified by MO.SLIM at 7:36 AM 9-24-2008_


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## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: (MO.SLIM)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MO.SLIM* »_Still wondering though, where can I buy some trim removal tools








edit: saw some on partsexpress.com but not sure whats best for VW


This is where I grab cheap ones from.
http://www.harborfreight.com/c...95532


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## MO.SLIM (Jul 21, 2008)

*Re: (Non_Affiliated)*

those are cheap!
But they dont ship to Canada








I'm working on getting some elsewhere, now that I know what I'm looking for. Thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## elrich_d (Aug 6, 2008)

for the sound deadener, use something called press and seal. its the stuff roofers use when their putting down a new roof. acts the same way as dynamat and costs a heck lot less. I read this last night actually and will be doing the hatch and are under my sub when i do my setup. you can get it at lowes or even homedepot


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## pwnt by pat (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: (elrich_d)*

It's also asphalt based, so be prepared for your car to smell like fresh pavement for a while, and whenever it's hot outside.


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## JDriver1.8t (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (pwnt by pat)*

and if you live in a hot climate then it will also fall off of any vertical or inverted surfaces. Lave the press and seal to the roofs of houses and by a good butyl based sound deadener.


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## Jeepr21 (Jul 28, 2004)

*Re: ("RON")*


_Quote, originally posted by *"RON"* »_
Not any box is going to work. Different sub have different needs. Capacitors are a joke. CAPACITORS DO NOT ADD POWER, they are storage. I would be willing to bet these people that have dimming issues have not upgrade there grounds on there battery. Have you upgraded the big 3 under the hood? I die a little bit inside every time I look under someones hood and see a huge power wire coming out and they are still using that little tiny ground wire that came from the factory. 


I disagree... Capacitors are no joke. Sometimes a large-watted amp will drain the battery faster then the alternator can charge it... who'd of guessed? not to mention all the neon underglows, inside multi-colored kick panel lights, and those super high intensity headlights/foglights...







Alot of power consumption leads to dimming lights when your bass hits. Capacitors are Cheap (if you look)... and it doesn't hurt to have it (unless you wire it in backwards







)
I do agree though, it's always good to upgrade your grounds. But you can still get dimming lights even if the black wire is the same size as the red one. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## bbplaya4lfe (Jan 27, 2008)

*Re: ("RON")*

they are alot of products that are sold in home depot // llowes/ etc. that are sound deadeners for cars and are much cheaper!


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## pwnt by pat (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: (Jeepr21)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jeepr21* »_
I disagree... Capacitors are no joke. Sometimes a large-watted amp will drain the battery faster then the alternator can charge it... who'd of guessed? not to mention all the neon underglows, inside multi-colored kick panel lights, and those super high intensity headlights/foglights...







Alot of power consumption leads to dimming lights when your bass hits. Capacitors are Cheap (if you look)... and it doesn't hurt to have it (unless you wire it in backwards







)
I do agree though, it's always good to upgrade your grounds. But you can still get dimming lights even if the black wire is the same size as the red one. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

A cap is like putting a band aid on a six inch gash.
Caps actually put MORE strain on the alternator in an already under-powered electrical system.
The "black wire" should be at LEAST the same size as the "red" one - if not BIGGER.
Your amplifier has all the caps it needs inside of it, unless the manufacturer specifically states it has none. I can only remember two amps like that, from over 10 years ago.


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## MO.SLIM (Jul 21, 2008)

*Re:*

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions guys. I ordered my sub and amp last night, once its installed I'll start with the deadening. 
I'm pretty set on getting some Raamat. At <$200 for the mat and foam for the entire car, I won't risk the possibility of stench, mold, or poor durability that could come with using some of the mentioned cheaper products.
It will be pretty labour intensive, so I figure I'll do it right the first time.

And as for the cap, pretty much everything I have read so far matches what pwnt by pat is saying.


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## pwnt by pat (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: Re: (MO.SLIM)*

A suggestion.
Don't skimp on the following areas:
outer door skins (take the metal window guide out of the door and deaden behind it
front wheel wells (pull the carpet out and lay as much as possible where the wheels are)
rear wheel wells (remove the seats, parcel shelf panels, and carpet, go crazy)
right above the muffler, and the left side of the spare tire well next to the muffler
and the noisiest place: behind the dash. pull it if you can
Places to skimp:
middle door skin - stock is solid metal and a layer with foam should be all you need
roof - it's noisy but foam is going to be the biggest benefit up there, not mat
floor - you don't need any, at most just lay foam

I did two layers on the floor and regret it completely. Made almost no difference. The biggest difference so far was the front and rear-tire wells, but I still have to drop the headliner and pull the dash.
edit: meant just foam on the floor, not mat.


_Modified by pwnt by pat at 11:05 PM 10-2-2008_


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## "RON" (Aug 4, 2008)

*Re: Re: (pwnt by pat)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pwnt by pat* »_A suggestion.
Don't skimp on the following areas:
outer door skins (take the metal window guide out of the door and deaden behind it
front wheel wells (pull the carpet out and lay as much as possible where the wheels are)
rear wheel wells (remove the seats, parcel shelf panels, and carpet, go crazy)
right above the muffler, and the left side of the spare tire well next to the muffler
and the noisiest place: behind the dash. pull it if you can
Places to skimp:
middle door skin - stock is solid metal and a layer with foam should be all you need
roof - it's noisy but foam is going to be the biggest benefit up there, not mat
floor - you don't need any, at most just lay mat

I did two layers on the floor and regret it completely. Made almost no difference. The biggest difference so far was the front and rear-tire wells, but I still have to drop the headliner and pull the dash.

PLEASE KEEP IN MIND: 99% of people on here aren't going to go that crazy. And they would never notice that it was done. Not all of us are worried about IASCA judges!
I have only once pulled a dash and that was because I had a VERY audible rattle back there. And you said the floor was a waste; on my Civic that was the biggest improvement area for me. LOL 

IMO: Doors, doors, doors and trunk is where money is best spent. But for what I want I only do spot deading where "Pat" is doing a major build. And to the thread started I wouldN'T worry about the the roof. Wait and see if it is needed and I personally wouldn't use RAAM on the roof (trust me on the that),


_Modified by "RON" at 7:48 AM 10-3-2008_


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## pwnt by pat (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: Re: ("RON")*


_Quote, originally posted by *"RON"* »_
PLEASE KEEP IN MIND: 99% of people on here aren't going to go that crazy. And they would never notice that it was done. Not all of us are worried about IASCA judges!
I have only once pulled a dash and that was because I had a VERY audible rattle back there. And you said the floor was a waste; on my Civic that was the biggest improvement area for me. LOL 

IMO: Doors, doors, doors and trunk is where money is best spent. But for what I want I only do spot deading where "Pat" is doing a major build. And to the thread started I would worry about the the roof. Wait and see if it is needed and I personally wouldn't use RAAM on the roof (trust me on the that),

Yeah, I know. Just figured I'd throw it out there. not that carpet, headliner, or middle door panel removal is difficult. Heck, for the carpet around the wheels you can just pull it back
If I had very limited amounts of mat, I would only focus on the wheel wells and spare tire well. period. Maybe go as far up the firewall as I could without pulling the dash.
About the roof, You mean you *wouldn't* worry? (just checking it's not a typo like mine about putting only foam on the floor)


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## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: Re: (pwnt by pat)*

I tend to stray a little from the thought of the roof not being important. On solid roofs (No Sunroof) that is a lot of sheet metal that vibrates even with modest systems. Deadening that will help with keeping in some f the sound. i.e. not transmitted through vibration of the sheet metal. Sunroof vehicles tent to do as bad, but still will flex, just not as much as I have seen. My corrado tends to be firmed up by the Sunroof structure, re-enforcement and Track mounts.
Another point is applying a liberal amount of deadner to the to the floor and hatch area (For the hatch back owners) especially those with aftermarket exhaust will help tone down cabin resonance. I had doon just the hatch area and had a Techtonics 2.5" SS with single resonantor put on and they guys that installed it took it for a lap and were surprised that it was rather quit in the car.
But,to be fair I have no Idea what sound deaner foam mat would do in the same setup it may work better or as good as the Raamat I installed.
This is just from my experiance and install of a single layer of sound deadner, and resultsmay very, I just felt that I would air out some of my experiance on using the product.


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## MO.SLIM (Jul 21, 2008)

*Re: Re: (Non_Affiliated)*

I definitely would be a little hesitant pulling the dash and the headliner, I have only owned the car for a month







. This is not to say that I wouldn't do it, but I would definitely do the other problem areas before moving to these spots. 
I'll do a thorough covering of the hatch + spare well, then move on to the doors and wheel wells. Once I get the sub in there it'll be easier to see where it is needed most, and whether the floor needs it.

_Quote, originally posted by *Non_Affiliated* »_But,to be fair I have no Idea what sound deaner foam mat would do in the same setup it may work better or as good as the Raamat I installed.


Are you talking about just the foam mat? or the mat with foam? I was planning on putting the mat down with the Ensolite on top of it everywhere that i can...
As a n00b to the audio scene I am soaking up all this info like a sponge http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by MO.SLIM at 6:02 AM 10-3-2008_


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## "RON" (Aug 4, 2008)

*Re: Re: (pwnt by pat)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pwnt by pat* »_
Yeah, I know. Just figured I'd throw it out there. not that carpet, headliner, or middle door panel removal is difficult. Heck, for the carpet around the wheels you can just pull it back
If I had very limited amounts of mat, I would only focus on the wheel wells and spare tire well. period. Maybe go as far up the firewall as I could without pulling the dash.
About the roof, You mean you *wouldn't* worry? (just checking it's not a typo like mine about putting only foam on the floor)

I meant wouldN"T - I fixed it thanks for catching it. LOL


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## pwnt by pat (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: Re: (MO.SLIM)*

Remember, mat is for mass loading and panel vibrations. Basically for low frequencies. The foam is for high frequencies. It's pointless to line the spare tire well with foam as the sound of the sub will overcome any high frequencies in those areas. Vibrating noises are fixed by isolating the panels from each other, not deadening them.
Foam does best in the roof, pillars, and on plastic panels. Unless you're going crazy, don't bother foaming the hatch.


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## MO.SLIM (Jul 21, 2008)

*Re: Re: (pwnt by pat)*

Good to know http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
do you put the foam over the wheel wells?
Ever use open cell foam in the inner door portions?
If anyone else is trying to learn about this stuff, i found (in another deadening thread) a good website about it. Here's a link to the product testing portion of the write-up
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/heat/


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## pwnt by pat (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: Re: (MO.SLIM)*

Yes. Went overkill in those areas. Still should put more down though.
You want to use CLOSED cell foam. Open cell will hold water. By in the inner door you mean behind the door card? yes. Do you mean inside the door? no. That's a waste to me.


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## MO.SLIM (Jul 21, 2008)

*Re: Re: (pwnt by pat)*

yeah i should have written: the inner portion of the inside of the door, or more simply, behind the door card







. 
Heard that you can put open cell foam there because its more effective for the high frequencies and as long as you properly seal the access holes to the outer skin, no moisture will enter. 
Worth it ... dunno...


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## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: Re: (MO.SLIM)*

Honestly I must say to all particpating in this thread, go with what works and make sence to you. Me personally would stray away from open cell foam from a personal preference because as with my Corrado they use that as kind of a loom for most of the wiring behind the dash and after 17 years this stuff from heat and cooling cycles, has slowly been deteriorating.
Me personally if I were to use foam anywhere behid the door card I would use a Closed cell foam as most will have a kind of pritective kind of skin on the foam that acts as a water barrier. But in time it too can break down and deteriorate. But hey it may be a year, 5 years or 2 decades, who knows. Again just remember that what works with you and makes you happy with what you've done is fine, and this is just an exchange of ideas on sound deadnening, and people giving ideas on how and why they used what they did. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

*Re: Re: (Non_Affiliated)*

can someone post a link to an appropriate closed cell foam to put behind the door cards?


----------



## veedubb8 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: Re: (formerly silveratljetta)*

Second Skin Closed Cell Foams
Also, MK4's have sealed doors, a solid metal moisture barrier between the door card and the door panel. Most cars have the plastic sheeting, but we lucked out, so a closed cell isn't 100% necessary, but better safe than sorry.


_Modified by veedubb8 at 2:57 PM 10-6-2008_


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## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: Re: (veedubb8)*

Also Dealerships sell a Closed cell water vapor barrier foam. As I have tried to get the plastic Vapor barrier for my corrado and they don't have them. Then they pulled out a roll of a sheet of closed cell foam.


_Modified by Non_Affiliated at 12:04 PM 2-17-2009_


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## DuB_MaNG (Apr 26, 2007)

*FV-QR*

heres my jetta when istarted sealing the trunk off.. it was some ghetto aluminum ply stuff. it works hella well and its way cheaper than dynomat. and u cna get it from any hardware store


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## DeutschConvert (Aug 10, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (DuB_MaNG)*

^
How thick is that and what kind of adhesive does it utilize?


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## DuB_MaNG (Apr 26, 2007)

*FV-QR*

its nothin but aluminum sheeting with roofing tar stuff on it.. ill take a pic of it 2marrow. i still got a whole roll left


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## DeutschConvert (Aug 10, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (DuB_MaNG)*

I'd like to see how this works out!
The only issue I see is that, from a sound dampening perspective, it may be useless. As it might not perform for much more than weight added to the panel to reduce vibration (like dynamat).
I hope it works...I desperately need to lay something down to help with exhaust drone.


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## DuB_MaNG (Apr 26, 2007)

*FV-QR*

i actually did this mod to my first jetta and again with this one months ago...
it does work if u have the whole trunk sealed off with it. but i didnt have my fully sealed since i cut holes out for the rear deck support thingy so air could pass through their. but since i dont have my sub in my trunk anymore (weight reduction righ? haha) all it is is just extra dead weight lol... all 2gether just the sheeting weight that was added was probably around 30-40lbs just in the trunk area.


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## veedubb8 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (DuB_MaNG)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DuB_MaNG* »_heres my jetta when istarted sealing the trunk off.. it was some ghetto aluminum ply stuff. it works hella well and its way cheaper than dynomat. and u cna get it from any hardware store









yep, that's ghetto alright.


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## MO.SLIM (Jul 21, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (veedubb8)*

I'm surprised by the amount of people who take the chance with questionable hardware store materials for their dampening after spending all kinds of money on components. Especially because dampening can be quite a time consuming process.
I'm not made of money by any means (thats why im not gonna get dynamat) but I'll drop a hundred or 2 more over home depot stuff if I'm gonna get the quality and durability of a proven product. 
But if it works for you guys... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I'm not playa hatin


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## DuB_MaNG (Apr 26, 2007)

*FV-QR*

have u ever seen dynamat? its nothing but aluminum sheeting with stick crap on the other side.... oh and the cute lil red logos stamped all over...
function > form right?
the whole purpose of dynamat is to confine the air being moved and to keep confined in an area to prevent loose materials from "rattling" at least thats what they advertise rite... well ghetto or not this stuff does the job just as well. its sticky, its aluminum, and u can seal everything off into one big aluminum "container" lol.... so if yur gonna spend the extra 1-2hundred extra on added weight be my guest. id rather save the few hundred get this stuff that has personally proven to work for me and others and use that savings to make yur car faster to make up for the added weight.


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## DeutschConvert (Aug 10, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (DuB_MaNG)*

My biggest concern is based around sound dampening. Not rattle reduction. And I think that the main components that should be paid for with dampening material are 1) adhesive properties and capabilities and 2) thickness of the product.
1)Being that this application (The one pictured above) is on the trunk floor, adhesive properties and ability to withstand heat are pretty much non-issues. However, in a situation where the material is applied on a veritcal or hanging horizontal axis, the adhesive is much more important and I would not skimp. However, I do know of a nationals SQ champ who uses the same hardware store material in his door skins.
2)With dampening material, I find thickness to only matter in the amount of weight that will be added in/ft^2. To my understanding, dampening materials are not to be a sound insulator. They function as a deadending agent to the panels by adding weight and reducing vibration and resonance (as mentioned above).
I don't really see a problem with flashing material or HD supplies when used in the correct application.

Any suggestions on insulator to use in the hatch (floor, wheelwell, sides) of my GTI?


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## "RON" (Aug 4, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (DuB_MaNG)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DuB_MaNG* »_have u ever seen dynamat? its nothing but aluminum sheeting with stick crap on the other side.... oh and the cute lil red logos stamped all over...
function > form right?
the whole purpose of dynamat is to confine the air being moved and to keep confined in an area to prevent loose materials from "rattling" at least thats what they advertise rite... well ghetto or not this stuff does the job just as well. its sticky, its aluminum, and u can seal everything off into one big aluminum "container" lol.... so if yur gonna spend the extra 1-2hundred extra on added weight be my guest. id rather save the few hundred get this stuff that has personally proven to work for me and others and use that savings to make yur car faster to make up for the added weight.

You are using an asphalt based product... Which I will not use. It does apply easy and tends to lose its properties very quickly with this type of application. If you are happy cool. I just wouldn't put that (sorry to say) crap in my car.


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## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR ("RON")*

I think Dynamat is being deemed spoken like people call Tissues Kleenex.
Dynamat is not the only Brand Sound deadner out there, and if people were to actually use the search button I am sur they will be able to find other brands at better pricing. Dynamat is not the end all be all of sound deadners, It's just the more reconized and they use that to their advantage. Kind of like everyone Knowing JL Audio as supposidly beeing Thee top of the line gear by many. And their stuff is spendy, Why cause that is a company that is more well known and has had many history accolaides so most put 1 and 1 together. Which isn't always the case.


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## DuB_MaNG (Apr 26, 2007)

*FV-QR*

oh no.... this stuff is all over my trunk....bottom..sides..even along the top and on the actual trunk lid itself. i pretty much sealed every gap in the body of the car from the back seats back. like if you've ever pulled the carpet liner or even in the doors how its got mulitle metal frames tigged together. well i sealed all that off so that way sound wouldnt resonate in those crevices. pretty much for the trunk the only open spots were when u folded the back seats down and the gap for the trunk lid. then i just recovered it all with the carpet pieces. as for the whole heat thing... not worried i live in socal and park my car outside alot. ive left it in 100+ degree temps while in vegas for wustefest.


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## pwnt by pat (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (DuB_MaNG)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DuB_MaNG* »_have u ever seen dynamat? its nothing but aluminum sheeting with stick crap on the other side.... oh and the cute lil red logos stamped all over...
function > form right?
the whole purpose of dynamat is to confine the air being moved and to keep confined in an area to prevent loose materials from "rattling" at least thats what they advertise rite... well ghetto or not this stuff does the job just as well. its sticky, its aluminum, and u can seal everything off into one big aluminum "container" lol.... so if yur gonna spend the extra 1-2hundred extra on added weight be my guest. id rather save the few hundred get this stuff that has personally proven to work for me and others and use that savings to make yur car faster to make up for the added weight.

The purpose of sound deadening MAT is to add mass to a panel, lowering it's resonant frequency to below-audible levels. The whole blocking airflowthing... that's what the foam is more suited for.
All modern sound deadening products are butyl based. Rubber. They won't smell when heated. Your stuff is asphault based. If you're cool with that fine. Just don't go spouting out that it's just as good as real deader products. There's more to "good" than added mass.
Plus, if that's how it looks when you take the carpet off, you applied it wrong. The deadener should conform to every single crevice, nook, and cranny.
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com


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## veedubb8 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (DuB_MaNG)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DuB_MaNG* »_have u ever seen dynamat? its nothing but aluminum sheeting with stick crap on the other side.... oh and the cute lil red logos stamped all over...
function > form right?
the whole purpose of dynamat is to confine the air being moved and to keep confined in an area to prevent loose materials from "rattling" at least thats what they advertise rite... well ghetto or not this stuff does the job just as well. its sticky, its aluminum, and u can seal everything off into one big aluminum "container" lol.... so if yur gonna spend the extra 1-2hundred extra on added weight be my guest. id rather save the few hundred get this stuff that has personally proven to work for me and others and use that savings to make yur car faster to make up for the added weight.

Actually, Dynamat and other audio-specific materials are most successful because of their "mass loading" technology. Adding mass changes the resonant frequency of the panels. The adhesive material developed by Dynamat and Second Skin is specifically formulated for its use in the automotive environment. Your idea is like saying all speakers are created equal or all tires are created equal. And for the record, you're not trying to "contain" the vibrations, you're trying to change the vibration's properties. Containing vibrations by your descriptions sounds like there's still pockets of air, which is not a good thing. To successfully remove noise and vibrations, you'd want the material to bonded to the sheet metal with no air pockets, and the thicker the material the better.


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## DuB_MaNG (Apr 26, 2007)

*FV-QR*

lol oh my... this is gettin difficult... ok look i understand the stuff im using isnt "dynamat" but considering their both made of the same properties im gettin very simliar results. as for how i hav it laid down, its not like the pic above... that shot of the trunk is when i was still cuttin the correct sizes the backing isnt even peeled yet. once i cut all the right sizes i needed my trunk did end up lookin like the pic in the link u posted. and the stuff i have must hve some properties of rubber or that butly stuff then. cuz like i said my car has sat in 105+ degree temps (do yur states even get that high?) and ive popped the trunk and nothin was saggin nothing was smelly. look this can go on and on and thats fine. but im not about to drop 100s of $$ on somthin like that anyways. im still rockin the stock monsoon speakers with just a sub in the trunk with my avic-z1. and for what it does i noticed enough of a difference to justify doing it to this jetta. im not trying to win SQ comps or have the banginest system. but for what i was looking for it worked out just fine. obviously if yur stuck on spending extra money on the real thing because u want the few extra "bonus" dyamat offers then go for it. yur money. im happy with what this "ghetto" stuff is doin for me. and its not like u can see it anyways since all the trunk carpet is back in. thats just like saying a GHL CAI is better than some cheap ebay CAI when their both "in theory" designed the same. you'd rather spend the 300$ because its name brand. when u can get an ebay special one for under 100$. yea maybe the material is slightly different but the basic concept is still their right? anwyays stick with yur expensive product. but dont knock it till you've rocked it. cuz maybe its not for everyone.
/thread lol


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## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (DuB_MaNG)*

The problem is that you are stuck on this Dillusion that everyone here is buying Dynamat and spending big $$$$ on sound deadning. Some are but most here would resort to buying dynamat as a last resort becuase it is the most exspenive crap out there.
I've paid $130 to do my whole floor in my car, that is the whole hatch area up to the strut towers, back seat area up to the windows, and front floor. If I do my door, or when I do my doors I am pretty sure I will still be under the $200 mark for a total sound deadening, unless I do my roof which may be just another $30.
So a lot of us aren't breaking the bank doing this stuff, because we don't use Dynamat as you keep suggesting.


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## DuB_MaNG (Apr 26, 2007)

*FV-QR*

oh well not u then lol... anyways i offered another alternative to the expensive name brand stuff with stuff that u can pick up at homedepot. is it all flashy nope does it do the job that i needed most def.


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## pwnt by pat (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (DuB_MaNG)*

The only thing similar between peel and seal and commercial sound deadener is the presence of an aluminum constraining layer (different between real deadeners as well) and mass loading properties. Everything else is different.


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## MO.SLIM (Jul 21, 2008)

what "Non_Affiliated" and "pwnt by pat" said X2
I'm ordering some raamat this week and I'll start with the more accessible sections, then may do some of the trickier places this winter


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## oopseyesharted (Mar 2, 2005)

*FV-QR*

I did fatmat in an install recently(2001 s-10 EXTREME lol) The fatmat is just pure trash compared to other brands.
It worked very well in the rear wall and floor, but the ceiling was a nightmare. We prepped the surface with a hard scrubbing of acetone and it still fell after 40 hrs of florida sunshine.
I would avoid fatmat in southern climates. It smelled like a used diaper full of indian food as well.
I read in the beginning of this post that someone used rags and socks to deaden rattles. Please dont do this.
Cotton will get wet/damp. Before you know it the car is rotting from the inside out.
Second skin sounds cool.


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## "RON" (Aug 4, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (oopseyesharted)*


_Quote, originally posted by *oopseyesharted* »_I did fatmat in an install recently(2001 s-10 EXTREME lol) The fatmat is just pure trash compared to other brands.
It worked very well in the rear wall and floor, but the ceiling was a nightmare. We prepped the surface with a hard scrubbing of acetone and it still fell after 40 hrs of florida sunshine.
I would avoid fatmat in southern climates. It smelled like a used diaper full of indian food as well.
I read in the beginning of this post that someone used rags and socks to deaden rattles. Please dont do this.
Cotton will get wet/damp. Before you know it the car is rotting from the inside out.
Second skin sounds cool.

FATMAT is asphalt based! Just like the stuff the guy buys from Home Depot.


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## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR ("RON")*

Just some links I have picked up from my web travels, for those who didn't know about some of the other alternatives.
http://www.b-quiet.com/
http://www.cascadeaudio.com/
http://www.fatmat.com/
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/
http://www.raamaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi


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## oopseyesharted (Mar 2, 2005)

*FV-QR*

right now dynamat extreme bulk kits are on ebay for 132 w/free shipping.


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## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (oopseyesharted)*


_Quote, originally posted by *oopseyesharted* »_right now dynamat extreme bulk kits are on ebay for 132 w/free shipping.

Uh look carfully, I see only the 100 sq ft EXTREME deadener w/Dynamat roller And that is B-quiet with a Dynamat Roller for $135 Free shipping.
For anyone that is looking for Dynamat online through channels like ebay and what not one thing to point out. If it doesn't have the Dynamat logo plastered all over th back side it isn't Dynamat.


_Modified by Non_Affiliated at 4:13 PM 10-13-2008_


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## Tay'smk2 (Jul 1, 2008)

*Re: Dynamat/sub+amp questions (MO.SLIM)*

well after reading alot of bullsh*it replys to your serious question, im gonna offer some insight
first off a 400watt RMS sub or subs will love to be powered by a 1000 watt RMS amplifier, i suggest the kenwood 1000 watt, affordable and reliable
if your not planning to upgrade your speakers you could save some $$ and settle for 250 RMS or so.
Secondly German engineered cars are know to be the BEST cars for sound, because of factory measures that were taken to reduce road noise and
rattling. Personally I'd get that sub pumping and then decide if your need to spend absurd amounts of money of deadening. 
If your after earth shaking bass, like the honda boi'z then go ported, if your looking for that clean crisp sound quality everyone is jealous of go sealed. My favourite sound comes from two 10" subs in sealed enclosures.
As for your battery, I again would get the subs going before your drop the big bucks. see if you have a need, if you get her going and your see obvious lack of power, go for a 1 farad capacitor, if its still starving for power for for the optima YELLOW TOP. one of the best battery's for sound systems


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## pwnt by pat (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: Dynamat/sub+amp questions (Tay'smk2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Tay’smk2* »_well after reading alot of bullsh*it replys to your serious question, im gonna offer some insight
first off a 400watt RMS sub or subs will love to be powered by a 1000 watt RMS amplifier, i suggest the kenwood 1000 watt, affordable and reliable
if your not planning to upgrade your speakers you could save some $$ and settle for 250 RMS or so.
Secondly German engineered cars are know to be the BEST cars for sound, because of factory measures that were taken to reduce road noise and
rattling. Personally I'd get that sub pumping and then decide if your need to spend absurd amounts of money of deadening. 
If your after earth shaking bass, like the honda boi'z then go ported, if your looking for that clean crisp sound quality everyone is jealous of go sealed. My favourite sound comes from two 10" subs in sealed enclosures.
As for your battery, I again would get the subs going before your drop the big bucks. see if you have a need, if you get her going and your see obvious lack of power, go for a 1 farad capacitor, if its still starving for power for for the optima YELLOW TOP. one of the best battery's for sound systems









It takes 10x the power to double loudness. Going from 250wrms to 1000wrms (provided the subs can handle it mechanically and thermally) won't make as much as a difference as one might expect. Noticeable, sure. But not breathtaking.
Have you taken a VW apart? Hardly any road-noise reducing measures. ....
Ported can have better SQ than sealed. It's all about the woofer you use and the install you're doing. Saying sealed is for SQ and ported for SPL is a trademark of the uninformed.








Caps don't fix dimming, or "electrical starvation". Neither do upgraded batteries. If you're lights are dimming, it's because the power levels in the car are dropping below what the alternator can sustain, and falling back on battery power.
Sorry, had to pick out some bs in a post that claims anti-bs


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## "RON" (Aug 4, 2008)

*Re: Dynamat/sub+amp questions (Tay'smk2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Tay’smk2* »_well after reading alot of bullsh*it replys to your serious question, im gonna offer some insight
first off a 400watt RMS sub or subs will love to be powered by a 1000 watt RMS amplifier, i suggest the kenwood 1000 watt, affordable and reliable
if your not planning to upgrade your speakers you could save some $$ and settle for 250 RMS or so.
Secondly German engineered cars are know to be the BEST cars for sound, because of factory measures that were taken to reduce road noise and
rattling. Personally I'd get that sub pumping and then decide if your need to spend absurd amounts of money of deadening. 
If your after earth shaking bass, like the honda boi'z then go ported, if your looking for that clean crisp sound quality everyone is jealous of go sealed. My favourite sound comes from two 10" subs in sealed enclosures.
As for your battery, I again would get the subs going before your drop the big bucks. see if you have a need, if you get her going and your see obvious lack of power, go for a 1 farad capacitor, if its still starving for power for for the optima YELLOW TOP. one of the best battery's for sound systems









Ported VS. SEALED if properly designed can run the same if not better. You obviously are not the authority on sound quality because the first thing about SQ guys is not the equipment its the install. I have a brand new GLI and it rattles and resonates like no other. But once again you are not a SQ guy. Most people wouldn't notice. But an SQ type would in one second. 
So to Tay’smk2 why don't you stop giving such bad information!


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## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

This thread is making me giggle like a sugared-up 13 year old.


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## MO.SLIM (Jul 21, 2008)

*Re: Dynamat/sub+amp questions (Non_Affiliated)*









Ok I got a nice specific question for you guys. Do you use a silicone sealant to seal the access points in the doors (using whatever sheeting you chose), or do you prefer to use self tapping screws? If you use the screws, what size?


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## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: Dynamat/sub+amp questions (MO.SLIM)*

Are you refering to closing off the holes in the door? If So there are several ways I have seen done. I have seen people use sheetmetal and screw the holes shut. But if I did that method I would go a step further and use the Butyl strips to seal around the whole edge of the metal plate. It's is commonly referred to as Gorilla snot. It is also used to usually hold the plastic vapor barriers in place.
Another method I have seen done is just straight up deadening over the holes.


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## MO.SLIM (Jul 21, 2008)

*Re: Dynamat/sub+amp questions (Non_Affiliated)*

I have read that the mat alone is not rigid enough to freely span the access holes. People then (as i have heard) cover the holes with sheet metal of some sort (aluminum falshing etc..) and then deaden over the sheet metal.


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## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: Dynamat/sub+amp questions (MO.SLIM)*

Well most of the aluminum backed sound deadening is ridgid enough to span the holes. Heck VW dealers give you closed cell foam to span the door for vapor barriers. Now if your planning on putting in some 6.5" or maybe craming in 8" speakers then yes I would advise using some sort of metal to close up the holes if your trying to seal up the door some. I would also advise using some sort of sound deadning between the door metal and metal cover, kind of like a gasket, to eliminate any chance of rattle.
That is where I think regular asphalt based mat or strip of butyl without any aluminum backing would work well.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

*Re: Dynamat/sub+amp questions (Non_Affiliated)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Non_Affiliated* »_Well most of the aluminum backed sound deadening is ridgid enough to span the holes. Heck VW dealers give you closed cell foam to span the door for vapor barriers. Now if your planning on putting in some 6.5" or maybe craming in 8" speakers then yes I would advise using some sort of metal to close up the holes if your trying to seal up the door some. I would also advise using some sort of sound deadning between the door metal and metal cover, kind of like a gasket, to eliminate any chance of rattle.
That is where I think regular asphalt based mat or strip of butyl without any aluminum backing would work well.

I think this is a great idea because there seems to be a very fine line where my doors just start rattling to hell at certain volumes.


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## MO.SLIM (Jul 21, 2008)

*Re: Dynamat/sub+amp questions (Non_Affiliated)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Non_Affiliated* »_That is where I think regular asphalt based mat or strip of butyl without any aluminum backing would work well.

would silicone sealant accomplish this job? Because then I'd kill 2 birds with one stone by cushioning between the panels and adhering them (with the help of mat over top)


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## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: Dynamat/sub+amp questions (MO.SLIM)*

I steer clear of Silicone because the fumes usually break down foam products. And I know there is alot of foam in VW's.


_Modified by Non_Affiliated at 6:27 PM 10-17-2008_


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## MO.SLIM (Jul 21, 2008)

*Re: Dynamat/sub+amp questions (Non_Affiliated)*

Sounds good http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I tried ordering the Raamat last week but the guy who deals with canadian orders was out of office. He contacted me today to confirm the order. I just want to make sure I'm in the right ball park.
I plan on doing:
-The doors
-The spare wheel well and the hatch
-The portions of the wheel wells that I can access, and mightl end up doing the floor once the carpet is up... and beneath the rear seats.
I plan on getting the recommended 1 roll + 3 yards ensolite + 1 can adhesive... what do you think? too little?


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## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: Dynamat/sub+amp questions (MO.SLIM)*

I did the entire hatch area up to the strut towers under tha back seats, and I still have about 1/2 of a roll left. IIRC 1 Roll is around 60 Sq. Ft.


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## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: Dynamat/sub+amp questions (Non_Affiliated)*

Wondering in there would be any interest for some e1SEv2 Sound deadner? This is the stuff from Elemental Designs at about $1.10 or $1.20 a linear Sq. Ft.? At $1.20 that would be 60 Sq Ft. for $72 not sure on the shipping or if I can roll that into the price? I would have to know by Nov. 3rd.


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## MO.SLIM (Jul 21, 2008)

*Re: Dynamat/sub+amp questions (Non_Affiliated)*

how similar is that eDead stuff to Raamat? Do you need a heat gun?
Can you buy closed cell acoustic foam (comparable to ensolite) anywhere aside from ordering online?
Cause I wanted the basic 1 roll raam+ 3yards enso + adhesive and to my door it would cost .... well $270 CAD 2 days ago, but with the dollar drop... $290 CAD now. Considering our dollar was at par a month ago... that aint so good


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## Non_Affiliated (Feb 12, 2002)

*Re: Dynamat/sub+amp questions (MO.SLIM)*

eDead
RAamat


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## MO.SLIM (Jul 21, 2008)

*Re: Dynamat/sub+amp questions (Non_Affiliated)*

For the sake of not creating another monsoon+sub related thread im gonna bring this one back from the dead. hoping non affiliated or pat can chime in








I have done most of my deadening, but still dont have my sub or amp yet. I want to run all the wiring and put the interior back together so it will be ready to go. I have some wiring questions.

I figured I would run a 4 gauge to the back to a distribution block.
I would run one 8 gauge off the dist block to the amp, will this cause noise? 
I can then run one more 8 gauge to a speaker amp (next year).. would 4 gauge from the front be enough? 
I then need to run a switched wire to the front for the amp as well. Does this come with the amp or should I buy it? 
Now the only other line to run to the front would be for a volume control knob? (I plan to use one since im keeping the monsoon HU for now) and this knob + wiring comes with only some amps? 
/essay
thanks! 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*Re: Dynamat/sub+amp questions (MO.SLIM)*

in an average car length, a quality 4 gauge cable will flow 150a safely.
A main power line to a (fused) distro is what everyone runs for multiple amps, unless you're competing for SPL.
The switched wire is just a 16-22 gauge wire. I usually just pull apart some cheap speaker wire and use that. Some amp install kits have it included.
You will need to check which amp you want if it has the "volume" knob. What you're looking for is an adjustable remote gain. Some amplifiers have remote gain. Some have remote bass-boost. Some have neither. Most connect via a telephone cable/jack


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## crazymoforz (Jan 19, 2006)

*Re: Dynamat/sub+amp questions (Pat @ Pitt Soundworks)*

if you want a ported box, make sure its built to spec for the sub that you are running. that is the best way to get the best sound out of it. please dont buy a generic ported box.


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## MO.SLIM (Jul 21, 2008)

*Re: Dynamat/sub+amp questions (Pat @ Pitt Soundworks)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Pat @ Pitt Soundworks* »_
A main power line to a (fused) distro is what everyone runs for multiple amps, unless you're competing for SPL.

If you use a fused distro do you still need an inline fuse?
I was gonna get some stinger kit for cost price but it's looking like it may be better for me to make an order from knukonceptz
As of now I'm going for:
-4 ga kolossus flex wire (from batt to power dist. block / from ground dist. block to frame)
-8ga kolossus flex wire (from power dist. block to amp / from amp to ground dist. block )
How does this seem?


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## blazerpounds (Mar 19, 2008)

_Modified by blazerpounds at 10:00 AM 2-16-2009_


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## MO.SLIM (Jul 21, 2008)

*Re: Dynamat/sub+amp questions (MO.SLIM)*

bump for some knowledge http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*Re: Dynamat/sub+amp questions (MO.SLIM)*

Yes. The fuse protects the car from a short in the wire from the battery to distro. The fused distro protects the smaller wire which cannot flow as much as the larger wire. If you short 8 gauges (flows 60-80a in short runs) and it's only fused by 4 gauge (flows 150a) then there's an obvious problem.
Do you think you will be upgrading to more power or more amplifiers? If not then the 4/8 gauge combo will be fine for (as I said) anything up to combined draw of about 150a, or approximately 1500wrms. I forget if Knu sells 2 gauge or not, but that would be a good path to go if you might upgrade later on. 2 gauge will flow 250a, or approximately 2500wrms. 
The kolossus flexs is good stuff. So is kicker wire but honestly, I don't remember any pricing structures for any wiring companies anymore. Place order and done. Knu is 1 day ground shipping from me so I always go with them


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## MO.SLIM (Jul 21, 2008)

*Re: Dynamat/sub+amp questions (Pat @ Pitt Soundworks)*

ok perfect http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Now I just gotta sort out what my short and long term plans are, then I'll lay the wire


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