# Start-up problem.



## afawal (Oct 18, 2005)

Good day all!
When I turn my car on first thing in the morning (or if it has been sitting and is completely cool), it fires up normally.
However, if I drive around stop into a grocery store for example and come back out to turn the car on, it sputters a bit before reaching idle RPM. It does this irregardless of ambient environment. It doesn't throw any codes, but I do have a CEL for a P0421 (Catalytic converter emissions) on right now, though I don't see why that should have an effect on start-ups.
2000 Passat V6 4-Motion
153k miles on the odo
Plugs have been changed say 20-25k ago
wires were changed 60-70k ago
Clean air filter
Any suggestions? I'm leaning towards the coil pack?
Thanks!


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

*Re: Start-up problem. (afawal)*


_Quote, originally posted by *afawal* »_However, if I drive around stop into a grocery store for example and come back out to turn the car on, it sputters a bit before reaching idle RPM.
Any suggestions? I'm leaning towards the coil pack?

Possibly. You can test the coil with a DMM, but I'm afraid I don't know the specs, and don't have a repair manual to look them up. However, usually a warm engine that runs rough on start-up is caused by poor fuel delivery -- injectors, pump, filter, fuel line leak, return valve, etc...


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## FOXman17 (Nov 2, 2005)

*Re: Start-up problem. ()*

I have the same exact problem in my 2000 A4, has 142 on the odo now, and i just got timing belt, water pump, and tune up done, i am doing the plug wires tomorrow, but the car doesnt turn over after driving it for a while, but when its been sitting for awhile, it starts right up... the COIL might be the cause like ^^^ just said.. and i have cylinder misfire codes, and it says i have a bad battery, but the car wont even be clicking if i did have a bad battery...














Don't know what to do, about to call it quits with Audi's....


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

*Re: Start-up problem. (FOXman17)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FOXman17* »_but the car doesnt turn over after driving it for a while, but when its been sitting for awhile, it starts right up ...

Clicking but no cranking = bad battery, starter solenoid, or starter motor.

_Quote, originally posted by *FOXman17* »_ it says i have a bad battery, but the car wont even be clicking if i did have a bad battery... 

Well, there you have it. You need a new battery... It is possible that a dead battery would still have enough juice in it to move a small electromagnet 1/4 inch, but not enough to turn over a 6-cylinder engine.


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## FOXman17 (Nov 2, 2005)

*Re: Start-up problem. ()*

Are you sure man? cuz i don't want to get it, and than it not be the right thing, feel me?


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

*Re: Start-up problem. (FOXman17)*

Check it with a voltmeter...


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## afawal (Oct 18, 2005)

*Re: Start-up problem. ()*


_Quote, originally posted by ** »_
Possibly. You can test the coil with a DMM, but I'm afraid I don't know the specs, and don't have a repair manual to look them up. However, usually a warm engine that runs rough on start-up is caused by poor fuel delivery -- injectors, pump, filter, fuel line leak, return valve, etc...

The service manual I have lists specs for the ignition coils as a resistance range.
8000 - 14000 ohms
So I might do that sometime this weekend.
I don't suspect a fuel delivery problem because the car fires up normally everyday in the morning. Sometimes coils become "weak" when they become hot, just a sign of wear. It's possible that the same is happening to the coils for the injectors, I guess I can test the resistance of those as well.
Resistance values according to my service manual are as follows:
For Siemens injectors: 13.5 - 15.5 ohms.
For Bosch injectors: 15 - 17 ohms.
If any of the readings are too high (inejctors or coils) then they should be replaced.
A high resistance in the ignition coil will reduce the "power" of the spark or it can be non existant.
A high resistance in the injector will cause the issues with the open and close timing of the injectors.
Will keep you guys posted.


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## afawal (Oct 18, 2005)

*Re: Start-up problem. (FOXman17)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FOXman17* »_I have the same exact problem in my 2000 A4, has 142 on the odo now, and i just got timing belt, water pump, and tune up done, i am doing the plug wires tomorrow, but the car doesnt turn over after driving it for a while, but when its been sitting for awhile, it starts right up... the COIL might be the cause like ^^^ just said.. and i have cylinder misfire codes, and it says i have a bad battery, but the car wont even be clicking if i did have a bad battery...














Don't know what to do, about to call it quits with Audi's....









A bad battery can also just mean that the voltage during intial start-up is below spec. Typically, and correct me if I'm wrong here guys, a good battery shouldn't dip below 9 volts when cranking. If it does, then the battery is bad, it may not be holding a charge. Parts stores can test your battery and some will even do it for free! So check that out too!
Good luck.


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## afawal (Oct 18, 2005)

*Re: Start-up problem. ()*


_Quote, originally posted by ** »_
Possibly. You can test the coil with a DMM, but I'm afraid I don't know the specs, and don't have a repair manual to look them up. However, usually a warm engine that runs rough on start-up is caused by poor fuel delivery -- injectors, pump, filter, fuel line leak, return valve, etc...

It runs and idles fine, and fuel economy has not been affected. It's just the start-up that a little sputtery. On my last trip of about 800 miles, it delivered normal fuel economy. The filter fuel filter has been changed, maybe 60k miles ago, but maybe it's time to change again.


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## FOXman17 (Nov 2, 2005)

*Re: Start-up problem. (afawal)*

A bad battery can also just mean that the voltage during intial start-up is below spec. Typically, and correct me if I'm wrong here guys, a good battery shouldn't dip below 9 volts when cranking. If it does, then the battery is bad, it may not be holding a charge. Parts stores can test your battery and some will even do it for free! So check that out too!

I checked with autozone today after i got my wireset... and they said my battery is BAD, it was only holding 12.7 Volts and he said my alternator is charging it, so my alternator is cool; but i havent had a problem with it. for some odd reason it has started up fine all day. this car is making me go COOCOO for COCO PUFFS!!!


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## FOXman17 (Nov 2, 2005)

*Re: Start-up problem. (FOXman17)*

i cant figure this car out.. i changed the battery, and now its still doing the same thing, you think its the fuel pump? i heard it might be that or a new coil?? any ideas??


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## damakkus (Apr 7, 2008)

Did anybody figure it out yet? I am having the same issue with my 2000 V6 Passat. The car just starts fine if I only turn it off for like 30 minutes. It then starts up fine again after like 6 hours. Inbetween it is just cranking but not firing up right away. 
I also noticed that the idle is getting a little rough when the enngine is warm.

So far I have replaced air filter, vacuum lines, fuel filter, temperature sensor. I ran quiet some injector cleaner. Battery, Spark Plugs have been changed not too long ago. 
I just ordered the coil pack and hope that this is going to fix it.


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## dieselrabbit89 (Mar 6, 2008)

*wont start help *

Hello all 

i have a 2000 vw passat 2.8l DOHC 30v 4 motion with 246k i left work today jumped in my car started it up put it in drive and to the E brake off and with out warning the car cut off i tryied to restart it and it would not start i checked the serpentin belt and the timming belt they ar both fine i checked fuses and there fine to so does any one know what else i should check or if this problem happened to any one else 


thanks for your help


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## The Dub Man (May 25, 2010)

sounds like crank position sensor..


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## damakkus (Apr 7, 2008)

@ afawal:
You sound as if you were having the same issue. The car starts bad (after some cranking quiet some cranking time) only after 45 minutes up to 6 hours after then engine was turned off. So it was starting fine within the first 45 minutes and after 6 hours. As I wrote before, I had replaced quiet some equipment before. Finally I got my hands around it and it turned out to be leaky injectors. The injectors are all supplied by a common rail, which is pressurized. As you turn the engine off the rail remains pressurized. So the leaky injectors cause a leak from that rail right into your intake manifold. After like 45 minutes it gets flooded and causes the engine to start with after some cranking time. After 6 hours the gas in the mainfolds evorated and the car just started fine again. In my case there were 2 really bad injectors and another one that started leaking. 
You can test it by starting your car and then removing the injectors from the block while they are still on the rail.
I have just decided to replace all 6 and I even noticed a big performance increase by this decision. Before I just never noticed that the performance was just not perfect, since the degradation just takes place slowly.
VW charges you $60 per injector but you can find remodeled ones for 40$. I just went with the VW ones since the injectors had different revisions and none from the internet told you which revision you actually got for your money.

I am just all happy with it again


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