# DIY: TT260 camshaft on 2.0 AEG, Various Gasket Replacements! Pics Inside!



## vasillalov (Nov 5, 2003)

Hi folks,
I have been getting a lot of requests to write this DIY so here it is! I have recently installed a Techtonics Tuning 260 camshaft on my 2.0 AEG engine. While I was at it, I took some pictures.
*Notes:*
* I used the first DIY here by redzone98! It was detailed enough for me to get the job done! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








* I chose the TT260 camshaft for several reasons:
-- I did not have to upgrade the lifters
-- I did not have to upgrade the valve springs
-- The cam does not cause a CEL
-- I did NOT want to loose much low end torque
-- I am preparing for the Neuspeed Supercharger. A mild cam is recommended for it.
* It took me good 8 hours to do this install. Most of the time was spent investigaving and carefully removing parts. I tripple checked every single bolt, washer, plug, connector, etc.

*TOOLS NEEDED:*
* Various metric sockets
* Various kinds of pliers
* Torque Wrench
* Alen Wrenches
* Various screwdriver bits
* Nail polish - bright color preferred
* Permanent marker
* Masking tape
* 1 zip tie
* Ribber mallet
*PARTS NEEDED:*
* TT260 camshaft (this is up to you actually)
* New Valve Cover Gasket
* New Oil Breather Gasket
* New Upper Intake Manifold Gasket
*STEP 1 - Preparation:*
1. Jack the car up and put it on jack stands. The higher, the better
2. Allow the engine to cool down completely.
3. Remove the front passenger-side tire
4. Remove the splash shield (as if you will be changing oil)
5. Remove the two passenger-side wheel well liners. They are black plastic and are attached with hex bolts AND the freaky VW speed nuts.
6. Remove the engine cover
*STEP 2 - Unplugging Various Hoses*
_This is probably the most annoying part of the job. You have to unplug several hoses and remember which one goes where._
1. Using pliers, unplug the rubber hose that goes from the intake manifold to the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR):

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2. Unplug the hose at the back of the intake manifold:

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3. Unplug this sucker too:

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4. Now, on the other side, uplug the big hose that comes out of the Oil Breather:

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5. At the throttle body area, unplug the various electrical connectors and also unplug the main intake tube:

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6. At the secondary air pump area, unplug the two hoses for the air pump and also the little rubber hose that goes to the intake:

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*STEP 3 - Removing the Upper Intake Manifold:*
1. With the hoses out of the way, remove the upper timing belt cover. It is black and it is plastic. It will also have a label with your engine code on top of it. You will find it at the passenger side of the engine.
2. Using the hex key, remove the 5 hex bolts that hold the manifold at the front:

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3. BE VERY CAREFULL NOT TO DROP ANY BOLTS DOWN THE INTAKE RUNNERS!
4. There are two more bolts which are at the back of the intake manifold. They are bigger!
5. At this point you should be able to lift the intake manifold and rotate it out of the way. It is not heavy (about 5-6 lbs including the throttle body). I managed to secure the intake manifold on top of the battery tray and the air box. Make sure you put a towel on before you place the manifold there or you will scratch the airbox and the battery cover!

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6. Remove the upper intake manifold gasket and immediately tape the intake runners with masking tape so that nothing can fall in:

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*STEP 4 - Timing The Engine:*
1. With a long arm wrench and an 18mm socket, slowly rotate the crank shaft CLOCKWISE till you match the timing mark on the camshaft sprocket with the *O.T.* mark at the valve cover:

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2. Here is how things look when the timing is set:

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Here is a close-up:

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_Notes: the timing mark on the camshaft sprocket is relatively small. It is a marking on one of the teeth of the sprocket. You can't miss it but you have to look closely to recognise it._
3. Once you line up the two timing marks, use the nail polish to mark the tooth on the timing belt. I wanted to make sure I don't miss the tooth later when installing it, so I used a permanent marker and drew a line connecting the two timing marks. Look in the picture above...

*STEP 5 - Removing the Valve Cover:*
1. Twist the oil breather 60-90 degrees, CLOCKWISE. You will hear/feel a slight click. This means that the oil breather has been disconnected. Pull it off from the valve cover.
2. Using a 10mm socket and a wrench, remove the valve cover retaining buts and remove the valve cover:

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3. Carefully, slide the oil splash shield and expose the cam:

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*STEP 6 - Removing the Timing Belt:*
1. Using a 13mm closed wrench, unscrew the nut on the timing belt tensioner. You will feel the belt get loose. It is OK, You have not lost the timing.
2. Remove the 13mm nut and the washer which is behind it. Make sure you keep them in a safe spot.
3. Slide the timing belt off the camshaft sprocket while making sure that you DONT'T push down on the belt. The belt must no come off the crank sprocket. 
4. With a zip tie, secure the timing belt so that you won't accidentally push it off the crank sprocket:

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*STEP 7 - Removing the Camshaft:*
1. Note that there are 5 camshaft retainers as shown in the picture below:

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*IT IS CRUCIAL TO INSTALL THE RETAINERS IN THE RIGHT ORDER AND IN THE RIGHT ORIENTATION*
2. With a 13mm socket start loosening the nuts on the retainers in this order: 1-3-5-2-4. As soon as the nut starts spinning freely, move on to the next retainter in line while keeping the removal order above. You will notice the camshaft rise and push on the retainers.
3. Once you get to the point to where you cannot continue loosening the nuts, start removing the retainers in the 1-3-5-2-4 order. I used two sheets of paper and a diagram as a guide to make sure which goes where. I even made sure that the nuts for the retainers go in their respective places:

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4. At this point, the camshaft should be sitting free. on top of the head.
5. You must now clear the cam sprocket from the Camshaft Position Sensor (CPS). This is the tricky part, so take your time. All you need is patience and finess. You must not bump the camshaft sprocket to the CPS excesivelly or you will break ite CPS and you will end up with a CEL. Patience is a virtue. I managed to get the cam out on the 8th try...

*STEP 7 - Installing the TT260 Camshaft:*
1. Unscrew the big bolt that holds the camshaft sprocket
2. Carefully, persuade the sprocket with the rubber mallet
3. Be careful not to loose the little metal piece that sits wedged between the sprocket and the cam seat. It is called a Woodrof Key.
4. Slide the Woodroof key onto the TT260 cam and then slide the cam sprocket onto it. Bolt the sucker down as tight as you can
5. Here comes the most frustrating part: You must install the camshaft AND at the same time make sure that you clear the Camshaft Position Sensor (CPS) without bumping into it. I took me good 20 minutes cursing and trying different ways until it finally went in!







Note, it is easier to remove the stock cam than to install the new one in!
6. After you are sure that the camshaft is laying properly on the head and that the CPS has been cleared and that the camshaft sprocket is where it has to be in respect to the CPS, start installing the camshaft retainers. Again, follow the 1-3-5-2-4 order. Make sure you oil the cam where it mates with the retainers! You can use your normal engine oil.
7. You may notice that the lifters have come up higher than before and you can't install the cam retainer #5. That's OK. Start tightening the nuts on the other retainers till the lifters are pushed down a little and then install the #5 retainer.
8. Start tightening the retainers in the 1-3-5-2-4 order. 
9. Set your torque wrench to 15 foot pounds and tigthen every retainer.
10. Install the plastic splash shield, the new valve cover gasket and the valve cover. 
11. Install new oil breather gasket and install the oil breather by twisting COUNTERCLOCKWISE 60-90 degrees till you hear/feel a click
*STEP 8 - Installing And Adjusting The Timing Belt:*
1. Cut the zip tie and slide the timing belt on the camshaft making sure that all the marks you made are kept. The big line I drew across the timing belt was very useful in lining things up. Just connect the two timing marks with the line you drew on the timing belt...
2. Now, verify that the timing belt is router properly over the tensioner. Slide the washer on and tighten the 13mm nut.
3. Using needle nose pliers, turn the "U" shaped part of the tensioner COUNTERCLOCKWISE till the little finger at the back gets positioned where it has to be. 
4. Tighten the 13mm nut all the way and check the tension on the belt.
5. Every 15 minutes, turn the cranshaft CLOCKWISE for 90 degrees. This is necessary to relieve the pressure in the lifters. You can work on Step 9 while doing this.
*STEP 9 - Installing All Removed Components:*
1. Install new upper intake manifold gasket (recommended)
2. Install the intake manifold while making sure you don't drop anything in the runners.
3. Connect all hoses and electrical connectors.
4. Verify that every single bolt, nut and hose is tightened and plugged.
5. After you have made 2 complete turns on the crankshaft you can procede to Step 10
_Note: Once you start turning the crankshaft, to relieve the pressure in the lifters, your timing marks will be off. After just 1 turn, the mark you made on the timing belt will NOT be on the same spot on the cam sprocket. This is OK!_
*STEP 10 - Fire The Engine (THE MOMENT OF TRUTH):*
1. Fire the engine and if everything is OK in the first 5 seconds, raise the rpms to 1500-2000 and hold there for 2-3 minutes.
2. If you don't get a CEL then you nailed it! If you get a CEL then you might have broken the CPS or your timing is off. 
3. After this initial run, kill the engine and check the tension on the timing belt. Verify that it is not too loose!
You are done!


_Modified by vasillalov at 10:55 PM 10-4-2005_


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## vasillalov (Nov 5, 2003)

*Re: DIY: TT260 camshaft on 2.0 AEG, Various Gasket Replacements! Pics Inside! (vasillalov)*

I will post the part numbers for all gaskets later...


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## sharkytm (Jul 6, 2003)

awesome writeup. Can't wait for the Tbelt DIY. Thanks man.


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## OXJetta (Jun 2, 2002)

*here is a thought PLEASE READ*

Someone really should look up the torque specifications for all of the intake manifold bolts and head bolts. Might want to look up the patterns too. Thats right lug studs aren't the only thing that need to be torqued in a pattern. If someone were to tear their top end appart by pulling out random bolts and just tighten them down how ever they please their is a high probability of the parts becoming warped. so now your far off blown head gasket is now closer to happening. This is especially risky while working on a hot or even warm engine. double serieous for spark plugs, loss of compression any one? by the way this info can be found in the BENTLEY, On ALL DATA, or MITCHELL ON DEMAND. not all relevant, but good to know. The way i see it is that a manufacturer has a certain way of doing things and it's usaully not a bad idea to not stray too far away. 


_Modified by OXJetta at 6:11 AM 4-25-2006_


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## vasillalov (Nov 5, 2003)

*Re: here is a thought PLEASE READ (OXJetta)*

Interesting point you bring!
I did look into torque specs for the intake manifold bolts and for the bolt patterns. None were listed in my Bentley.
As far as the camshaft retainers go, the patter has been describe along with the proper torque specs...
So far, I have put over 10K miles on the new camshaft and there are no problems...If something was going to warp, it would have done it by now...


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

15 ft/lbs


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## 7thGear (Sep 20, 2002)

*Re: (tdogg74)*

****
i wish you were my neighboor
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## vasillalov (Nov 5, 2003)

*Re: (7thGear)*


_Quote, originally posted by *7thGear* »_****
i wish you were my neighboor
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

HAHHA! Don't we all!


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## Dubboi (Sep 18, 2004)

*Re: (vasillalov)*

great write up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## B5Buddy (Jun 17, 2004)

*Re: (Dubboi)*

what kind of hp gains came from this cam as i will most likeley be doin gthis cam for the same reasons as stated above


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## vasillalov (Nov 5, 2003)

*Re: (B5Buddy)*

I've never dynoed my car so I don't know how much I gained. Some extra power is definitely there.


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## r0yal (Aug 22, 2006)

*Re: DIY: TT260 camshaft on 2.0 AEG, Various Gasket Replacements! Pics Inside! (vasillalov)*


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is that rust?? if so, that cannot be very good for the engine lol 


_Modified by r0yal at 9:00 PM 10-16-2006_


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## vasillalov (Nov 5, 2003)

*Re: DIY: TT260 camshaft on 2.0 AEG, Various Gasket Replacements! Pics Inside! (r0yal)*


_Quote, originally posted by *r0yal* »_ 
is that rust?? if so, that cannot be very good for the engine lol 


Rust?! No, this is oil sludge. Trust me, your engine looks the same if not even worse.


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## rhussjr (Aug 7, 2000)

*Re: DIY: TT260 camshaft on 2.0 AEG, Various Gasket Replacements! Pics Inside! (vasillalov)*

A trick way of holding the belt in the correct position for when you are installing a cam (but not changing the timing belt) is to use a zip tie or two to hold the belt onto the gear. Also, to keep it out of your way and help hold the intermediate shaft in place, you can use a bungy cord and hook one end to the gear/belt and the other to the hood inner re-inforcement.

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## Rhezuss (Feb 1, 2005)

*Re: DIY: TT260 camshaft on 2.0 AEG, Various Gasket Replacements! Pics Inside! (vasillalov)*

Wow nice guide thanks a bunch!
But can someone like me that only changed wheels on a car can do this without too much damage?


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## wishihada18t (Apr 24, 2004)

good write up!
back in my chevy v8 days when breaking in a new cam there is a 15-20 minute run at 2500rpm. why only 2-3 on the vdub?


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## vasillalov (Nov 5, 2003)

*Re: (wishihada18t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *wishihada18t* »_good write up!
back in my chevy v8 days when breaking in a new cam there is a 15-20 minute run at 2500rpm. why only 2-3 on the vdub?

Thanks! 
I don't know about the break-in period. This is what the bentley manual said so this is what I did. 15K later things are still great.


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## Rhezuss (Feb 1, 2005)

*Re: DIY: TT260 camshaft on 2.0 AEG, Various Gasket Replacements! Pics Inside! (vasillalov)*

even tho your guide (and redzone's one) is pretty well described, I'm so scared in doing it myself.


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## wishihada18t (Apr 24, 2004)

i did it last year, also did the tbelt and water pump. if your not changing the tbelt the hardest part is just making sure the belt dosent move. everything else is relatively simple


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## Rhezuss (Feb 1, 2005)

*Re: (wishihada18t)*

Anyone planning on coming in Quebec this summer?








Could use a hand doing this thing...i'll supply the








haha!


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## kcn0113 (Jul 28, 2005)

*Re: (Rhezuss)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Rhezuss* »_Anyone planning on coming in Quebec this summer?








Could use a hand doing this thing...i'll supply the







haha!

haha, don't worry. i got mine in the mail a couple minutes ago acutally!! a day early!





















so i'll be putting it in next week after christmas and such








i am soooo excited, i'm printing off this and the other DIY as we speak.


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## Rhezuss (Feb 1, 2005)

*Re: (kcn0113)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kcn0113* »_
haha, don't worry. i got mine in the mail a couple minutes ago acutally!! a day early!





















so i'll be putting it in next week after christmas and such








i am soooo excited, i'm printing off this and the other DIY as we speak.









Can you update us when you'll do it and how it went? Would be cool http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
BTW, is it your first time working in an engine?


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## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

*Re: DIY: TT260 camshaft on 2.0 AEG, Various Gasket Replacements! Pics Inside! (r0yal)*


_Quote, originally posted by *r0yal* »_

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is that rust?? if so, that cannot be very good for the engine lol 

_Modified by r0yal at 9:00 PM 10-16-2006_


_Quote, originally posted by *vasillalov* »_
Rust?! No, this is oil sludge. Trust me, your engine looks the same if not even worse.

emmm, not really, thats with 28K miles, all have been Synthetic oil









_Modified by redzone98 at 10:50 AM 12-19-2006_


_Modified by redzone98 at 10:56 AM 12-19-2006_


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## Rhezuss (Feb 1, 2005)

*Re: DIY: TT260 camshaft on 2.0 AEG, Various Gasket Replacements! Pics Inside! (redzone98)*

Wow that's a difference. I think i'll try synthetic oil my next oil change. I heard in winter it's really good since synth oil don't tend to harden.


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## kcn0113 (Jul 28, 2005)

*Re: (Rhezuss)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Rhezuss* »_
Can you update us when you'll do it and how it went? Would be cool http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
BTW, is it your first time working in an engine?

yeah i'll update stuff when it's done. it's my first time swapping in a cam. i've helped a friend with his timing belt/tensioner. i put my own suspension and exhaust in with the help of friends as well, so i think i have a basic mechanical knowledge.
EDIT: so i went to get the valve cover gasket, upper intake manifold gasket and cam seal today at the dealer. i guess i have an AVH engine...this shouldn't affect the install, should it?


_Modified by kcn0113 at 2:55 PM 12-19-2006_


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## vasillalov (Nov 5, 2003)

*Re: DIY: TT260 camshaft on 2.0 AEG, Various Gasket Replacements! Pics Inside! (redzone98)*


_Quote, originally posted by *redzone98* »_
emmm, not really, thats with 28K miles, all have been Synthetic oil


Mine was @ 88K when I did the TT260 camshaft. I've been running it with synthetics also. Wait till you start accumulating some more miles...


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## AgentAl (Dec 26, 2006)

*Re: DIY: TT260 camshaft on 2.0 AEG, Various Gasket Replacements! Pics Inside! (r0yal)*


_Quote, originally posted by *r0yal* »_

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its burned oil, when the oil gets too hot it burns red like that. i had a 3cyl geo metro that came out like that after the first couple of oil changes even with synthetic. i added a remote mount oil filter and just put the oil filter somewhere besides right next to the exhaust manifold and it helped a bunch, the oil came out black instead of red. my wifes corolla did that too, but i think it was mainly because it took less than 4q of oil on a change.
seems kinda stupid to me to have the oil capacity of an engine that low that it gets a bit too hot but then again im not exactly an engineer so what the hell do i know.


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## liltrip1.8T (Sep 27, 2006)

*Re: DIY: TT260 camshaft on 2.0 AEG, Various Gasket Replacements! Pics Inside! (Rhezuss)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Rhezuss* »_Wow that's a difference. I think i'll try synthetic oil my next oil change. I heard in winter it's really good since synth oil don't tend to harden.

its very bad to switch back and forth


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## liltrip1.8T (Sep 27, 2006)

*Re: DIY: TT260 camshaft on 2.0 AEG, Various Gasket Replacements! Pics Inside! (vasillalov)*

how many miles do you have on your car with this kit?
And what was the total cost for the cams and s/c


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## vasillalov (Nov 5, 2003)

*Re: DIY: TT260 camshaft on 2.0 AEG, Various Gasket Replacements! Pics Inside! (liltrip1.8T)*

So far over 20K miles on the TT260 cam. No issues whatsoever and I am very pleased with the cam.


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## Retr0grade (Apr 30, 2007)

*Re: DIY: TT260 camshaft on 2.0 AEG, Various Gasket Replacements! Pics Inside! (vasillalov)*

Now you still have no issues right? I'm looking into getting this cam and am interested on how worth it it really is.


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## vasillalov (Nov 5, 2003)

*Re: DIY: TT260 camshaft on 2.0 AEG, Various Gasket Replacements! Pics Inside! (ProjectAJetta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ProjectAJetta* »_Now you still have no issues right? I'm looking into getting this cam and am interested on how worth it it really is.

My car just turned 103K and it runs flawlessly!


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## ENRGZR (Oct 11, 2006)

*Re: DIY: TT260 camshaft on 2.0 AEG, Various Gasket Replacements! Pics Inside! (vasillalov)*

Just bought the cam. I also have the timing kit from ECS. Would you suggest making all of the T-belt replacement marks prior to starting this? That way I can just change the belt at the same time, or do you suggest one at a time. Also what exactly does the CPS look like? Or, can I not miss it? Thanks a lot. Also do you have the part #'s for the gaskets? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## vasillalov (Nov 5, 2003)

*Re: DIY: TT260 camshaft on 2.0 AEG, Various Gasket Replacements! Pics Inside! (akdakota)*

I suggest doing the timing belt separately IF you want to follow my DIY which uses the Mark-And-Match principle.


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## bearing01 (May 27, 2004)

*Re: DIY: TT260 camshaft on 2.0 AEG, Various Gasket Replacements! Pics Inside! (vasillalov)*

vasillalov,
Couple of questions.
1. You said you didn't have to upgrade the lifters. Did you reuse the old lifters? And if yes, why? Rule of thumb is to always put new lifters with a new cam.
2. You said to raise idle to 1500-2000 for 2-3 minutes on first startup. Do you think that's a little short? Rule of thumb is 20min to break in a new cam.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*Re: DIY: TT260 camshaft on 2.0 AEG, Various Gasket Replacements! Pics Inside! (bearing01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bearing01* »_vasillalov,
Couple of questions.
1. You said you didn't have to upgrade the lifters. Did you reuse the old lifters? And if yes, why? Rule of thumb is to always put new lifters with a new cam.
2. You said to raise idle to 1500-2000 for 2-3 minutes on first startup. Do you think that's a little short? Rule of thumb is 20min to break in a new cam.

1) Agree 100%. Lifters wear with the original cam lobes.
2) Some cams do and some dont. Not all cams need to be broken in for 20 minutes.


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## vasillalov (Nov 5, 2003)

*Re: DIY: TT260 camshaft on 2.0 AEG, Various Gasket Replacements! Pics Inside! (tdogg74)*

Travis is correct, again!
You should replace lifters when you change cams because of the wear patterns. I did not change mine and so far everything is fine and dandy after 20,000 miles on the new cam with original lifters.


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## nomomk3 (Jun 9, 2006)

*Re: DIY: TT260 camshaft on 2.0 AEG, Various Gasket Replacements! Pics Inside! (r0yal)*

is that rust hahaha!


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

*Re: DIY: TT260 camshaft on 2.0 AEG, Various Gasket Replacements! Pics Inside! (nomomk3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nomomk3* »_is that rust hahaha!









WTF are you talking about... why are you posting that in a DIY thread that has not been posted in for over a year?


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## 4ePikanini (Aug 29, 2007)

people search, read and comment. happens often - i must admit i never look at the dates


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## 2003 golfer (Sep 25, 2007)

*Re: DIY: TT260 camshaft on 2.0 AEG, Various Gasket Replacements! Pics Inside! (vasillalov)*

Sorry to bump an old diy up from the grave, but having read a couple of diy's now I'm starting to consider doing this. Only thing is I still haven't seen any pictures of the CPS and how it connects to the cam/how I would need to be careful on removal of the cam.
Does anyone have a picture?


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## nab5126 (Dec 4, 2007)

*Re: DIY: TT260 camshaft on 2.0 AEG, Various Gasket Replacements! Pics Inside! (2003 golfer)*

Just installed the at 270*, on the back of the cam gear there is a smaller wheel with 4 tabs that stick into the cps, i dont see why he made a huge deal out of it in the post, I undid the bolt, pulled cam gear and along with it the wheel on the back for the cps, then went and undid the 10 bolts to hold the cam into place


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## Toadster (Nov 19, 2001)

*Re: DIY: TT260 camshaft on 2.0 AEG, Various Gasket Replacements! Pics Inside! (nab5126)*

this is a great writeup! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
what about on a 1.8L Mk1? anyone have a link to a DIY? 
what power did you notice on the 2.0L? HP/TQ?
did your Butt Dyno like the update?


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## seedlamp (Nov 3, 2010)

ummm... you didnt mention the master cylinder hose? i dont want to go further cause i dont know if that will leak brake fluid or get air in my brake system.


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## greggims (Mar 11, 2008)

*pre lube*

I highly recommend rubbing the camshaft and all the retainers with new oil to prelube the cam. If you don't you will score and possibly crack the new camshaft. Even the Bentley manual does not say this but any engine builder will tell you to be generous with the prelube.

NOTE: VW says not to use any type of prelube that is not normal oil, due to its different composition.


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## bartleman (Feb 24, 2011)

in step 2 section 5 what is the snesor with a two wire connection?


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## rolnaldo33 (Apr 21, 2009)

greggims said:


> I highly recommend rubbing the camshaft and all the retainers with new oil to prelube the cam. If you don't you will score and possibly crack the new camshaft. Even the Bentley manual does not say this but any engine builder will tell you to be generous with the prelube.
> 
> NOTE: VW says not to use any type of prelube that is not normal oil, due to its different composition.


 could you just fill a little tub with some oil and soak the cam and retainers?


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## Nick666UA (Sep 6, 2011)

I can't see pictures, were they deleted ?


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## 1sjetta (Apr 8, 2010)

what happened to the pictures?


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## DUTCHswift (Feb 22, 2012)

1sjetta said:


> what happened to the pictures?


:thumbup::thumbup: pictures?


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## Nikru274 (Jul 23, 2013)

year oldddd..still waiting on those pictures! :what: I cant seem to find a diy on this camshaft install with some working pics, would love some pics! Or does anybody happen to have this DIY saved from the past in PDF format by chance?


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## suicidemachinenumberone (Apr 21, 2014)

x2


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## Nikru274 (Jul 23, 2013)

Hey if anybody needs the writeup in PDF format..I got the goods.


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## Coolgeekab (Jan 9, 2015)

does the pdf have the pictures? please send to me or fix the pics on here please?!


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## Tybagv20 (Feb 14, 2016)

If you are going to spend money on a new cam, please do it right and put new lifers in the head also. Instantly turned off by this DIW (do it wrong)


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