# Build Thread



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

I will update accordingly

*Top End:*

IE CVA1 cams
AEB Head - stock ports
ST Inconel Valves Single Groove
ST Springs and Retainers
3-Angle valve job
IE Adjustable Time Gear and ARP Bolt
IE Adjustable Cam Gear

*In the middle:*

Cometic Big Bore HG
ARP Head Studs
Gates Kevlar Timing Belt (Its pretty and Blue)
ARP Crank Damper Bolt
Manual Tensioner Conversion

*Bottom End:*

Bored and Stroked to a 2.0l (2008cc)
Brute 20mm rods
JE Pistons 9.5:1 with Tool Steel Wrist Pins
IE Crank Dowel Kit
ARP Crank Bolt
Fluidampr

*Turbo Setup:*

BW S259 .76 a/r
DiMartino Fab Tubular Mani
Apexi Intercooler
3" intercooler piping
80mm Hemi Throttle Body
HKS SSQV BOV
Tial 38mm vband wastegate
Custom NubWorks Intake Manifold
NewSouth Intake Manifold Spacer
Eurodyne Maestro Suite


*Fueling*
Injector Dynamics 1000cc
IE Billet Fuel Rail
-6an Braided Fuel Line from tank to engine and back
Walboro intank
044 inline
Aeromotive Adjustable Rise and Rate FPR at 3bar base
OEM Fuel Filter until I switch to E85
Jays Racing Check Valve


*Exterior:*

Motegi Traklite 17x7 14.5lbs
S4 Bumper
5% tint all around


*Driveline:*

Clutchmaster FX850 Super Single
01E Swap
JHM Drivetrain Stabalizer
JHM Modded Cross Rod
JHM Solid Short Throw Shifter
Apikol Rear diff mount
034 Street Density Motor Mounts
034 Motorsports rear sway bar and brackets
Custon Built Driver Side trans mount
New Control Arms
S4 Brakes


*Interior:*

AEM Wideband
AEM Trueboost
Silver gauge rings
IDC about the interior....I JUST WANNA GO FAST!!!


*Other*
Optima Yellow Top Relocated to the trunk


Same setup basically with 840cc injectors, crap IC setup and stock AEB head i went 12.77

With an effective IC setup, built cammed head and a decent tune I am hoping for a mid 11s ride. Once i can get my hands on an EFR 7670 I will be hoping to be screaming into the 10s

I will post pics as I go with what I do and keep it all together and updating this along with a post for each update.


Enjoy

As always question/comments/advice/insights/etc. is always welcome. You cant hurt my feelings

-D 



Old Setup










T306RB










Custom Tabs










Gauges...










This....









Goes in here!










Closer










Almost










She is in there!!










New AEB stuff










Whats that stuff?










Ohhhh yahhhhh!!










Fuel Pump










Intercooler










Custom Intake Mani mock up










All done










ID1000's in there


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## BlueSleeper (Nov 9, 2002)

Is that a fake casting stamp on the head or do you really have a 2000 New Beetle head on there?


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

BlueSleeper said:


> Is that a fake casting stamp on the head or do you really have a 2000 New Beetle head on there?


that is a mock up head. the AEB is on there now...lol


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## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

Looking good :thumbup:


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> Looking good :thumbup:


Thanks Al!

Going to finish up the fuel lines and the wastegate/AEM mac valve stainless boost lines tonight


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## dubbin_boho (Dec 4, 2007)

shouldn't the purple part of the id1000's be on the fuel rail side?


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

No idea? Lol

I guess I need to look into that shouldn't I...


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

dubbin_boho said:


> shouldn't the purple part of the id1000's be on the fuel rail side?


 Yes:thumbup: Who built your head??


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

One-Eight GTI said:


> Yes:thumbup: Who built your head??


Kennedy Performance. 

Although he sent me on my way with the cams one tooth out of time


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## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

That'll do pig, that'll do.


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## flood514 (Jun 3, 2011)

those are just un-spacers no? if so they should go on the top of the injectors so not to F with the atomization of the fuel.










This looks like goo they use to check the contact of the valve/seat. Like hitting the edge of a snowboard with a sharpie before you file it.

Awesome build...love to see b5 projects.:thumbup:


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## Harry Sax (Apr 21, 2011)

to answer the question, the blue stuff around the valves is bluing or machinist' dye. its used to see fine marks and stuff.



> *Bluing*
> The machinist applies a layout stain called "bluing" to the part. Blue dye is normally used to create a contrast so the bright layout lines scribed on the part stand out. The machinist scribes edges, angles, and centerlines of circles, radii and arcs. The quick-drying dye is applied by brush or spray. Before the dye is applied, the metal is cleaned to remove any oil or grease to keep the bluing adhered to the surface of the metal. Bluing is removed from the metal with alcohol or a bluing remover.


looks good. keep it up!

who made that swell looking manifold? :laugh:


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

More pics



















FPR










Fuel pump - check valve - fuel filter 










Another angle










For the guy above who pointed out the new Beatle head ( props )










My softball team this year. I'm getting old












Feel free to converse and share. 

I will change those purple things tmrw when I finish up the fuel lines and stuff


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

flood514 said:


> those are just un-spacers no? if so they should go on the top of the injectors so not to F with the atomization of the fuel.
> 
> This looks like goo they use to check the contact of the valve/seat. Like hitting the edge of a snowboard with a sharpie before you file it.
> 
> Awesome build...love to see b5 projects.:thumbup:


Yah ima switch em around makes perfect sense to me for sure. Thanks guys for pointing that out. 

Now I know, lol. 

I love my awd b5 to the max!!



Harry Sax said:


> to answer the question, the blue stuff around the valves is bluing or machinist' dye. its used to see fine marks and stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Ahh he beat yah to it 

And I think you might know the guy. Nub Works - Justin McDonald - swell of a guy!!


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## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

Derek what cams u runnin?


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Updated first post with the cams I am running. 

IE CVA1's


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

I'll sell you my new'ish 034 motor mounts cheap. They don't hold up to big turbo builds.

Plonk down on something stronger. See my motor mounts FAQ for details. I have my eye on some dli mounts

Why oem flywheel?

Sweet build!


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

groggory said:


> I'll sell you my new'ish 034 motor mounts cheap. They don't hold up to big turbo builds.
> 
> Plonk down on something stronger. See my motor mounts FAQ for details. I have my eye on some dli mounts
> 
> ...


Those are like new 034 track density mounts. I wish we had more choices. The DLI's are pretty much our only other choice :/ and they suck from what I hear. $325!!!!

I have OEM because way back when I busted the oem and didnt have money for a good flywheel and clutch so just resurfaced and did the fx400. 

When this fx400 goes I'd like to do an fx800 super single or something. But not til I have too

Thanks groggory


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## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

Get her running,!!!!


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Mindfault said:


> Get her running,!!!!


Yah that is on the to-do list


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

derekb727 said:


> Those are like new 034 track density mounts. I wish we had more choices. The DLI's are pretty much our only other choice :/ and they suck from what I hear. $325!!!!
> 
> I have OEM because way back when I busted the oem and didnt have money for a good flywheel and clutch so just resurfaced and did the fx400.
> 
> ...


We have lots of choices. Have you seen my motor mount thread?

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5367666-1.8t-Motor-Mounts-FAQ&highlight=motor

Also, where have you seen bad reviews on the DLI mounts? I have only ever read good things about them. The only negative thing I've heard on them is that they're expensive and shipping is even more expensive. Past that, they sound pretty great.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

The build looks dope! Only thing i dont like is the giant Tach, but it's needed if racecar lol :beer:

also the name and logo of your softball team is awesome :thumbup::thumbup:


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

groggory said:


> We have lots of choices. Have you seen my motor mount thread?
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5367666-1.8t-Motor-Mounts-FAQ&highlight=motor
> 
> Also, where have you seen bad reviews on the DLI mounts? I have only ever read good things about them. The only negative thing I've heard on them is that they're expensive and shipping is even more expensive. Past that, they sound pretty great.


3 isn't that many....and I'd have to look but it was in the b5 a4 platform forum



Big_Tom said:


> The build looks dope! Only thing i dont like is the giant Tach, but it's needed if racecar lol :beer:
> 
> also the name and logo of your softball team is awesome :thumbup::thumbup:


Don't worry it will be quick disconnect. On that tach

Thanks for the props on the team logo. I'm hype to get playing


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## transient_analysis (Jan 28, 2003)

Hey Mang.. be careful about the flex orientation in on your fuel coming from rain tray straight to the fuel line..

The engine torquing in the engine bay while driving should be enough to rock the AN fitting loose over time.. Hate to see you end up with a gas leak 

can't think of a better orientation for that fuel line based on where your pump is, but you may want to consider a feed orientation a better service loop :beer:

Love the build and just trying to help!! :beer:



derekb727 said:


>


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## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

Not if you red loctite that ****! Think ull be fine, just check on it occasionally


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

derekb727 said:


> Don't worry it will be quick disconnect. On that tach
> 
> Thanks for the props on the team logo. I'm hype to get playing


yezzir :beer:


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

transient_analysis said:


> Hey Mang.. be careful about the flex orientation in on your fuel coming from rain tray straight to the fuel line..
> 
> The engine torquing in the engine bay while driving should be enough to rock the AN fitting loose over time.. Hate to see you end up with a gas leak
> 
> ...


You are right. I was thinking the same thing after i did it. If I have enough line left over I will just feed the other end...



Mindfault said:


> Not if you red loctite that ****! Think ull be fine, just check on it occasionally



Can you do that??

Also got the cams back in time....I think!?


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## L33JSA (Nov 3, 2011)

derekb727 said:


> FPR


I too wouldn't trust that straight line from the bulkhead to the rail. Its not just the fact that it might come loose you've got to worry about but the chance of it fracturing too.

Think I'd change it for 2 90deg bends and a longer section of pipe so that it loops down and gives plenty of flex/movement for when the engine moves.

Looking good though


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

L33JSA said:


> I too wouldn't trust that straight line from the bulkhead to the rail. Its not just the fact that it might come loose you've got to worry about but the chance of it fracturing too.
> 
> Think I'd change it for 2 90deg bends and a longer section of pipe so that it loops down and gives plenty of flex/movement for when the engine moves.
> 
> Looking good though



I'm just going to feed the other end of the rail. I think that will give me enough flex slack


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## ArcticFox (Nov 4, 2005)

Looking good I like it when the motor faces the right way


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## Mike Pauciullo (Jan 8, 2009)

Looking good man. :thumbup:


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Thanks Mike!!


Here is a pic of the cams redone. Do they look in time?









New toy...


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## Harry Sax (Apr 21, 2011)

^^^^ they look in time to me, i wouldnt ask jbutler though....


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## pkfinn (Nov 16, 2006)

Harry Sax said:


> ^^^^ they look in time to me, i wouldnt ask jbutler though....


Uh oh, not again.


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## 87vr6 (Jan 17, 2002)

Harry Sax said:


> ^^^^ they look in time to me, i wouldnt ask jbutler though....


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

pkfinn said:


> Uh oh, not again.


Let's please not start junk posts in my thread. Pretty please!!!

On a car related note. 

I ordered a new OEM s4 bumper today. Set me back 582.35!! Retail was $775 so I made it out alright !!

Got a few things from summit to finish up the fuel lines then I should be good to go. 

Also bought me a battery today!!









How I would love my car to look











Since I have to paint the bumper I was thinking of just doing the whole car....? 

I was thinking from the idea from a friend...

Tell me what you think.... Black with a red pearl.....?


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

I personally have never done head work. Would one of you brighter fellas enlighten me on where these "windows" are that need to match up? Sorry for the classroom question.:facepalm:


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## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

The windows are on the camshafts right next to the chain gear. Those windows need to be lined up with the cam cap arrows, and the exhaust cam window is slightly lined up to the left of the arrow but the intake cam is straight up with the arrow.


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## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

They look like this, the windows are notches. This is the intake cam at tdc:




And this is the exhaust cam at tdc, notice the offset:





Hopefully that clears it up for you


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

:thumbup: I see. I guess the arrows & notches make it pretty obvious? Thanks for the response:beer:


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## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

No problem, and there is 16 chain links between the two


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Mindfault said:


> No problem, and there is 16 chain links between the two


I dont see how they could have missed being off any teeth what so ever? :screwy::what:


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## Ronald Reagan (Feb 15, 2012)

Looking good Derek. :thumbup:


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Thanks Ronald! Should get to do some work tmrw after work!!


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## Ronald Reagan (Feb 15, 2012)

Good stuff duder! I get good feelings about your build this time around. Im sure you posted it already, but what are you doing for a tune this time around?


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Ronald Reagan said:


> Good stuff duder! I get good feelings about your build this time around. Im sure you posted it already, but what are you doing for a tune this time around?


Thank you for the kind words. 

I'm going to be running a VAP Motorsports ID1000cc tune via Eurodyne Maestro.


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

derekb727 said:


> Thank you for the kind words.
> 
> I'm going to be running a VAP Motorsports ID1000cc tune via Eurodyne Maestro.


Does Marc already have a tune for you or are you going there to get tuned???


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

One-Eight GTI said:


> Does Marc already have a tune for you or are you going there to get tuned???


He said he already has one that's basically for my setup then he can tweek it via the Internet.


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

derekb727 said:


> He said he already has one that's basically for my setup then he can tweek it via the Internet.


:thumbup: Should be a hell of a tune


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

New bumper!!! OEM S4. This isnt the American OEM is it! With that european license plate cutout?










Goal Look










Shaved grille or leave em and hide it.


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## flood514 (Jun 3, 2011)

I'd hide it...let em find out the hard way!


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Hmmmm










Coming along


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Damn, thats a nice intercooler:thumbup:


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

One-Eight GTI said:


> Damn, thats a nice intercooler:thumbup:


Its an Apexi. 

Going for intercooler piping on Tuesday.


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## boost_addict (Dec 4, 2009)

looks good.


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Mounted the solenoid for the AEM tru boost and finished up the stainless steel vacuum lines.


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Well let's see today I finally made a mount for the tru boost solenoid and finished up the pluming for it. 

I also put the new BKR7ES-11 plugs in gapped at .024 per Mar Hubert

I finished mounting the intercooler and put the radiator and such on for good, well the time being. 

I finished hooking the battery up in the trunk. Rolled the windows down and it was such an amazing feeling. Geez, awesome lol. I can't wait to grab it again. 

Hmmm I test fitted the bumper and I am going to be needing to do a lil trimming to the rebar

Lil odds and ends. More work tmrw to tie it all together then need to get it to the shop to do the intercooler pipe Monday evening


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Flashed the car this evening, my nerves are alot more calm now knowing that the correct file is on the ecu. Electronic sh!t trips me out so just glad it went well. 

After I flashed it I did a throttle body adaption with the $25 eBay hemi throttle body I have. 

That's about all I did. Lol

Tmrw I plan to install the intercooler and piping and etc, crimp/solder in the last clip for the injectors, install fuel rail. Check and recheck everything. Then I might start it up or I might sleep on it another night.....


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

I'm debating on wether or not I should drain my fuel tank. 

The fuel in it is atleast 18 months old. It's a mix of 112 and 93 and it's about 3/8 full. 

Should I drain it and get 10 gallons of fresh 93?


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

ok dumb question

Im having trouble figuring out how to plumb my BOV vacuum lines. Where do i need to supply the BOV vacuum line from?

Thanks

Brain Fart:banghead:


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

derekb727 said:


> ok dumb question
> 
> Im having trouble figuring out how to plumb my BOV vacuum lines. Where do i need to supply the BOV vacuum line from?
> 
> ...


Under intake mani :thumbup:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

derekb727 said:


> Also bought me a battery today!!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## ForVWLife (Nov 12, 2004)

Big_Tom said:


> derekb727 said:
> 
> 
> > Also bought me a battery today!!
> ...


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Zneith said:


> Under intake mani :thumbup:



I did it off the IM. For some reason I thought it needed to be Y'd off the wastegate



Big_Tom said:


> derekb727 said:
> 
> 
> > Also bought me a battery today!!
> ...


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Drain fuel or no?


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

More pics


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## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

That looks mean!! :thumbup:


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## xtremvw3 (Jun 10, 2011)

nice job


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Looking good :thumbup:


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Okay so everything is dOne and together. The motor turns over and all is good. 

I had a lil fuel leak at the feed of the fuel rail so that's what I'm working on today. If I can get that fixed then the beast will start up today. I'm excited and nervous and just want to drive this thing!! 

Look for updates


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Video 

[video]http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae43/derekb727_photo/37a8c314.mp4[/video]


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## HidRo (Sep 19, 2003)

It lives!!


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Yes she does finally!!!

Small fuel leak at the rail so I'm just going to replace it with the IE billet rail. 

Also need to figure out how to adjust this damn truboost. Was boosting 30+ psi last night.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

derekb727 said:


> Yes she does finally!!!
> 
> Small fuel leak at the rail so I'm just going to replace it with the IE billet rail.
> 
> Also need to figure out how to adjust this damn truboost. Was boosting 30+ psi last night.


:laugh: I bet that was funic:


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Scary in the thought of it blowing up

But it made 29.5 psi before 4700 rpm which is fantastic.


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## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

derekb727 said:


> Scary in the thought of it blowing up
> 
> But it made 29.5 psi before 4700 rpm which is fantastic.


Didnt say safeeace:


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Anybody ever mess with these AEM TruBoost? Mine doesn't seem to be working


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Red Anodized fuel rail ordered will be here Tuesday. 

Pulled the car out and cleaned it today










Monster cooler










Damn tru boost I hate you!!


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Maybe get a cheap mbc and run it in parallel till you can get it setup correctly.


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

You're such a boss Derek  think im gonna post pix of my cõck on your Facebook page now:wave:


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Dave926 said:


> Maybe get a cheap mbc and run it in parallel till you can get it setup correctly.


I think I'm gonna cap the lines and run wastegate spring pressure for a bit 



dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> You're such a boss Derek  think im gonna post pix of my cõck on your Facebook page now:wave:


You won't!! I need you to help me piece together an O1E for my car!!


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

They are clear again! Yippppe!!


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

That IC is interesting. Looks like it's got high and low density turbolators.


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

screwball said:


> That IC is interesting. Looks like it's got high and low density turbolators.


Explain this to me?


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Pics how she sits now. 





































Current standings with the car. 

Exhaust leak seams to be fixed. 

Need to have the rest of the exhaust welded on and finished

Relocate the power steering resivor 

Install a oil cooler 

Replace thermostat (I think it's stuck open?) could anything else cause the coolant not to get to running temp?

New tires - Continental Extreme Contact DW size 215-50-16 on a bronze 6 spoke wheel

New slotted rotors and EBC Red or Yellow pads

New brake fluid

Hopefully that's it for a little while......


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Car was on the road. 

Here is a crappy pull video. 

Sorry for all the talking from my buddies. 

This was on a closed course with full face helmets and seat belts warn. 

Disclaimer. : turn down volume so you don't flame the wordage in video. Lol

http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae43/derekb727_photo/79b77133.mp4


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## xtremvw3 (Jun 10, 2011)

Good tune you got there


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

xtremvw3 said:


> Good tune you got there


I'm coming to see you next weekend :thumbup::beer:


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

xtremvw3 said:


> Good tune you got there




Logs look good?


Big_Tom you lucky man you!!!


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## xtremvw3 (Jun 10, 2011)

yeah looked good, but i think you had ex leak when you sent me the logs so now that it runs good send me another one email please


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

xtremvw3 said:


> yeah looked good, but i think you had ex leak when you sent me the logs so now that it runs good send me another one email please


Alright I will get right on that. 

Whenever I am full-throttle it's backfiring and just feels like its missing. 

Plugs should be BKR7ES-11 correct?


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

derekb727 said:


> Alright I will get right on that.
> 
> Whenever I am full-throttle it's backfiring and just feels like its missing.
> 
> Plugs should be BKR7ES-11 correct?


Plug gap?


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> Plug gap?




.024


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## Broke Status (Feb 12, 2011)

derekb727 said:


> .024


A bit small in my opinion I would try .026-.028


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## 16plus4v (May 4, 2006)

Why are you running bkr7e-11s ? Stick with the regular BKR7E D. And keep the gap between .24 - .26 and you're fine.


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## xtremvw3 (Jun 10, 2011)

same plug just different gap. We ran .24 at 45psi stock coils Zero issues for 4 years, and on many street cars


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

xtremvw3 said:


> same plug just different gap. We ran .24 at 45psi stock coils Zero issues for 4 years, and on many street cars


I'm gonna throw some new plugs in and take some logs tmrw and send them to you. 

How precise does the fuel pressure have to be. Does it need to be right on 43.5 exactly with no boost/vac source? Could that cause an issue? 
I will check it again tmrw. 

I'm just unsure what could be giving me problems like I was having. 

So 2,3 and 4 gear ( not that the other gears dont these are just the ones i comfirmed) at low to mid 20s boost pressure the car stutters and doesn't continually pull. It pulls pretty hard but not to the potential that it should. Ohh and he makes 27psi

I raced a Evo 8 stock turbo with just 272 Crawford cams, full 3" exhaust and a tune and it was right on me. I felt I should have ran off and left it. Ohh it was from a 40 kick to idk how fast. Top of 4th abouts. 


Thanks guys!!


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

xtremvw3 said:


> same plug just different gap. We ran .24 at 45psi stock coils Zero issues for 4 years, and on many street cars


Marc, 

Also, when I go out to datalog what should I do for you?

Thanks


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

The 16g in the evo is no joke. 400 whp isn't uncommon.


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

Very nice setup!


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Dave926 said:


> The 16g in the evo is no joke. 400 whp isn't uncommon.


yup, when i was gettin my car dyno'd last month there was a guy gettin his evo 8 tuned. it had cams and a evo 9 with a couple more bolt on's. he made 347whp @ 18psi, he said he was shooting for 400whp @ under 25 psi. i left before it was done, but i'm sure he made it the car was strong


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## 04 GLI Luva (May 30, 2007)

derekb727 said:


> I'm gonna throw some new plugs in and take some logs tmrw and send them to you.
> 
> How precise does the fuel pressure have to be. Does it need to be right on 43.5 exactly with no boost/vac source? Could that cause an issue?
> I will check it again tmrw.
> ...


 The FPR can be in the 42-44psi range and be ok. Whats the wideband reading when it stutters?


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Dave926 said:


> The 16g in the evo is no joke. 400 whp isn't uncommon.


Makes me wanna cry



codergfx said:


> Very nice setup!



Thanks man!!


Big_Tom said:


> yup, when i was gettin my car dyno'd last month there was a guy gettin his evo 8 tuned. it had cams and a evo 9 with a couple more bolt on's. he made 347whp @ 18psi, he said he was shooting for 400whp @ under 25 psi. i left before it was done, but i'm sure he made it the car was strong


Sad face. Why didn't I just buy an evo



04 GLI Luva said:


> The FPR can be in the 42-44psi range and be ok. Whats the wideband reading when it stutters?


Low 12s

I think it's my AEM TruBoost causing the stuttering? More of a shuttering


----------



## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

Yea one of my buddies has evo 9 cams, full bolt ons he made 411awhp @ 30 psi


----------



## 04 GLI Luva (May 30, 2007)

derekb727 said:


> Low 12s
> 
> I think it's my AEM TruBoost causing the stuttering? More of a shuttering


Very well could be, look into setting the gain and set gain on the boost controller, never tuned a true boost, but im assuming it has those variables to play with since its an EBC. They determine how fast or smooth the boost comes on.


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

04 GLI Luva said:


> Very well could be, look into setting the gain and set gain on the boost controller, never tuned a true boost, but im assuming it has those variables to play with since its an EBC. They determine how fast or smooth the boost comes on.


 No gain control for the AEM


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

New downpipe made. 










New beside old










I want!!!


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Derek.. what manifold are you running? Full race?


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> Derek.. what manifold are you running? Full race?


ATP Cast


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Back from the dead almost.

Well just an update from where I left off.

The car was put back together and everything. was running okay, I had been having trouble with the AEM truboost and never did get it to work. I think it might be that the wastegate is to small for my setup, who knows.

Anyway one day I was driving the car and the FX400 went out. So i was close enough to home that I was able to limp back to the house. I 

Here are some pics of the destruction, the pressure plate exploded then proceeded to eat through the casting of the bell housing.






























I think the clutch went because of a small oil leak I had. It was coming from the valve cover so that is being replaced. it was leaking at the half moon on the exhaust cam side.

Here is some pics of some of the stuff I have changed.

Before










Parts of After






































I also moved the FPR, added in an OEM fuel filter, as well as the IE Cam gear. Pictures to come


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

I'm going to throw a little paint on the engine bay this afternoon and snap a few more pictures.

Planning on wiring in the 044 to the OEM Relay, anyone done this before?

Also finally picked up a catch can, should be here this week.

Trans and everything is going back into the car on Wednesday.

My List of things to do Wednesday:

Oil Change
New Throttle Body Gasket
Wire in connector for reverse sensros
Bleed brakes and clutch
Install Trans and axles/driveshaft
install catch can
install new valve cover gasket

Things to do by the weekend:

Fab a bracket for the driver side trans mount\

After that it will be break in of the clutch!


----------



## 1999.5GTIVR6 (Jun 15, 2011)

derekb727 said:


> I want!!!


:thumbup::thumbup:
you will love the quality, make sure you get a mount for it.


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

derekb727 said:


> Okay so everything is dOne and together. The motor turns over and all is good.
> 
> I had a lil fuel leak at the feed of the fuel rail so that's what I'm working on today. If I can get that fixed then the beast will start up today. I'm excited and nervous and just want to drive this thing!!
> 
> Look for updates


:thumbup::beer:


----------



## Budsdubbin (Jul 14, 2008)

you mig welded the v bands?


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Budsdubbin said:


> you mig welded the v bands?


That a problem?


----------



## Budsdubbin (Jul 14, 2008)

No not at all. I just never thought it possible without warping the flange ( I haven't attempted it). What amperage and size filler did you use? Clamp the flanges together while welding?


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Budsdubbin said:


> No not at all. I just never thought it possible without warping the flange ( I haven't attempted it). What amperage and size filler did you use? Clamp the flanges together while welding?


No idea. Buddy did it for me.


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Will be wiring in the fuel pump relay this evening finally. Now that I have a better grasp of what I am doing things should go smooth.


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

derekb727 said:


> Will be wiring in the fuel pump relay this evening finally. Now that I have a better grasp of what I am doing things should go smooth.


DO WERK! :vampire:


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

T-Boy said:


> DO WERK! :vampire:


Thanks for the help man! I have a much better grasp on things now.


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Wired in the 044 relay and everything works perfect. Thanks to the guys that made it easy for me. 

I installed everything back into the car today and started it up. What a great feeling. 

Only thing I am waiting on is a cross rod for the linkage. I had one coming that I purchased off eBay but UPS lost it. So now I am trying to find another. 

If there is anyone out there please let me know!


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Good to see you sticking with it after all these years Derek:beer:


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Rod Ratio said:


> Good to see you sticking with it after all these years Derek:beer:


It is not easy. I've wanted to burn or sell the thing many times. 

Thanks for the motivation.


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

derekb727 said:


> Wired in the 044 relay and everything works perfect. Thanks to the guys that made it easy for me.
> 
> I installed everything back into the car today and started it up. What a great feeling.
> 
> ...


:thumbup::beer:


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Thanks T-Boy.

So I have to get new wheels.

What do you all think of 

tsw nurburgring in 18x8 with a 45 offset?

I will be wrapping them in Kuhmo Ecsta XS in 225/40/18


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Pics?


----------



## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Rod Ratio said:


> Pics?


 
Yeah I wanna see them also


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Weighing in at 18.6 lbs they are the lightest I can find and stay under my budget



here ya go


----------



## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Heck yeah, they will look good:thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

I dig it...opcorn:


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Those will look nasty!


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Drove her around today. Open downpipe = loud as piss!!! This clutch grabs!! I feel like a noob all over again trying to drive this thing. 

Question guys - oil leak is still there. 

I was hoping that it was just leaking from the back part of the Calvert cover gasket. Turns out that's not the case. 

Looks like it is leaking from multiple spots at the Headgasket?

Any idea why this may be!?!

I assume I should replace the head gasket but don't want too if its just gonna leak again. 

Thoughts?

Thanks!


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Are you SURE it's not a leaking half moon seal, etc?

Wouldn't be a first


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Rod Ratio said:


> Are you SURE it's not a leaking half moon seal, etc?
> 
> Wouldn't be a first


Not a drop from either one in the back!?


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Just doesn't sound right man.. I dunno. I'm going to just assume that everything was 0'd before you bolted the head on amirite?


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Rod Ratio said:


> Just doesn't sound right man.. I dunno. I'm going to just assume that everything was 0'd before you bolted the head on amirite?


Whatcha mean by 0'd?


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

derekb727 said:


> Whatcha mean by 0'd?


I'm going to guess he's asking if you decked the block and head before bolting things up.


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

T-Boy said:


> I'm going to guess he's asking if you decked the block and head before bolting things up.



Well I guess I would of had to assume that everything was kosher when they left the machine shop, all I did was put the head on the block.

I received the fully built block from the machine shop, installed OEM AEB head. Car ran. Came back from Iraq took the head off and had it built up with valves, cams, springs. Installed that same head, just ran through and then it started leaking.


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Did you try to re-torque the head bro?


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Rod Ratio said:


> Did you try to re-torque the head bro?



I did that last night actually. Still leaks.

It was mentioned to me today, did I replace the headgasket after I installed the worked head and the answer is yes. I did with one I purchased from IE.


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Hmm.. Elring gasket?


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

To be honest with you I do not remember. It was the big bore gasket


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Guess I am going to order everything to do the HG tonight. I've got to do some other stuff as well so it's not a big deal I am going to Take the head to get checked as well.


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Sucks duder. How's it running otherwise? Your Facebook status said something about it the other day, but I was too busy to click on it. Just saw it flash acrossed my phone


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Well just breaking in the clutch. Don't want to drive to much with the oil leak. It's runs and drives and shifts fine. So that's good news. Clutch is a boss that's for sure. Haha


----------



## Three3Se7en (Jul 2, 2007)

Email me your tune.


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Three3Se7en said:


> Email me your tune.


http://cdn.*************.net/instances/400x/35146598.jpg


----------



## Three3Se7en (Jul 2, 2007)

derekb727 said:


> http://cdn.*************.net/instances/400x/35146598.jpg


 Worth a shot. :laugh:


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

So ordered all the HG stuff as well as new t3 and wastegate gasket. 

Planning on pulling the head tomorrow or Thursday. If the head checks out I will have it on the road by again for the weekend. shouldnt be to bad. I might leave it down longer though so I can work on making the car a little more easy on the eyes. I still need to get that damn bumper painted. ****

Ohhh yah! I also ordered me a JH Motorsports solid shifter since the shifter that I got for the swap is absolute junk!! Can not wait to get that installed and see what improvements that will bring.

I am really just happy that the trans that I put in it shifts good and all.

More to come once I get parts


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Good stuff Derek

You REALLY need to get those oxygen sensors straightened out tho.


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Rod Ratio said:


> Good stuff Derek
> 
> You REALLY need to get those oxygen sensors straightened out tho.


I just realized I can remove one. So one is coming out and getting pluged. 

Do you recall the specifics to mounting?


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Working on going E85 gents


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Pictures of the trans mount, turned out great!!


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Rod Ratio said:


> Hmm.. Elring gasket?




It was!!

Pulled the head off and here are some pics for you all. Block has about 2500 miles on it.


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Here is a video of the piston movement. Is this normal






Also, here a a picture of the block before the install of the worked AEB head. Only one that I have


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Wow, that 'looks' like a lot of clearance Derek


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

Agree....that's a lot of movement. I would double check that your block was bored to correct specs and the pistons are of correct measurements.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

That's a whole lot of movement.

OEM specs: http://www.pvv.org/~shane/stasj/pic...TW)/Engine/15-3 Pistion & connecting rods.pdf


----------



## eze-1.8t (Feb 18, 2013)

awesome info for a newbie like me!!


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Great Great Great!!! 

What is the best way to measure this? I am a complete noob when it comes to alot of things, this being one of them!


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Looks like an inner bore gauge....which i do not have of course


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

derekb727 said:


> Looks like an inner bore gauge....which i do not have of course


 Yes..

How long did you run it like that Derek?


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Rod Ratio said:


> Yes..
> 
> How long did you run it like that Derek?


 I'd say 2500 miles


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

derekb727 said:


> I'd say 2500 miles


 Didn't the engine sound like an 1954 Massey ferguson ? Consume a ton of oil, etc?


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

Rod Ratio said:


> Didn't the engine sound like an 1954 Massey ferguson ? Consume a ton of oil, etc?


 I could see piston slap when the engine is cold, but since his rings are new (ring was probably gaped to the current bore) I doubt he saw much oil consumption. Although if he kept running it like this he would have had accelerated ring wear due to the amount of piston movement.


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Rod Ratio said:


> Didn't the engine sound like an 1954 Massey ferguson ? Consume a ton of oil, etc?


 I don't know about soundin like that old car but it never consumed oil, just this recent oil leak from the headgasket


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

T-Boy said:


> I could see piston slap when the engine is cold, but since his rings are new I doubt he saw much oil consumption. Although if he kept running it like this he would have had accelerated ring wear due to the amount of piston movement.


 You can still see the cross hatch on the cylinder walls for the most part


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Should the pistons be that black?


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

derekb727 said:


> You can still see the cross hatch on the cylinder walls for the most part


 I don't think you ran the motor enough to do any serious damage. I would definitely check all the specs on it before you move on. Check all the cylinders to see if they all move like that.


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

If I am remember correctly I want to say that it wa like that the day I picked the block up from the machine shop 

Yes they all move like that


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Here is a video of the car with the most current motor setup. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GiGuVd7BhHM


----------



## pluck yew (Oct 23, 2011)

that looks like a lot of clearance to me, too. what it reminds me of is the video i took of mine, when i discovered all four Wiseco wrist pins were broken in half  

car ran, had a knocking to it though. made almost 6 bills (592 AWHP/434 tq) like this, as well  and i love the boy..... "my hands are sticky"


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

all 4? But just the one moved like that?


----------



## pluck yew (Oct 23, 2011)

this is what i found: and yes it was all four. i had to use a 20T shop press to get them out of the rods....


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

pluck yew said:


> this is what i found: and yes it was all four. i had to use a 20T shop press to get them out of the rods....


 Never seen that before...WOW. 
Find out what caused it? Did you re-bush the rods and use it again?


----------



## pluck yew (Oct 23, 2011)

T-Boy said:


> Never seen that before...WOW.
> Find out what caused it? Did you re-bush the rods and use it again?


 nope. put it all in a box and tucked it away. no way i would trust that stuff again. that happened because it hit 30psi at 5k rpm, and went to 45 psi by 5700 rpm and lifted the head. and melted that, too.


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

dose the piston color look okay? 

It was like that before the last 500-750 miles and the new tune and cylinder head work


----------



## pluck yew (Oct 23, 2011)

one thing i do not understand is the puddling on that piston top. that would usually occur (to my mind anyways) on the downhill side of the piston. like something puddled there and sat. but you cant have that on the uphill side of something. 

that was what i thought weird. 

at first i thought it was the chamfer on the top edge of the piston, then where you CLEARLY see the rings in there it looks like way too much clearance. IIRC you want like .004 or so piston to cyl, depending on make/model/brand/use.


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

pluck yew said:


> one thing i do not understand is the puddling on that piston top. that would usually occur (to my mind anyways) on the downhill side of the piston. like something puddled there and sat. but you cant have that on the uphill side of something.
> 
> that was what i thought weird.
> 
> at first i thought it was the chamfer on the top edge of the piston, then where you CLEARLY see the rings in there it looks like way too much clearance. IIRC you want like .004 or so piston to cyl, depending on make/model/brand/use.


 I drove the car home from a friends, straight into my garage and started to pull the head, that oil i believe came out of the head when I pulled it off. 

Do you measure the piston to cyl clearance at the top or the bottom?


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

much like you say the piston is different sizes so a good machine shop should use a mic and bore gauge to measure it all...in essence mic the skirt and bore gauge the cylinder. subtract the size of the pistons from the size of the bore and you get your piston to wall clearance... 




http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3849841 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4078654 


It has 5 parts IIRC: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPYIUylUW9I


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Cassidy @ IE said:


> *Do you care to look at this video and tell me what you think? *
> 
> Looks about normal to me, but that is just by watching a video. I would measure the bores to make sure they are still within spec. The JEs are a bit loose when they are cold, since they expand a good amount when they heat up.
> 
> ...


 This makes me feel better I will check the clearance tonight at bottom + 0.5 tonight


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Initial assessment of the head is 2 bent valves


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

derekb727 said:


> Initial assessment of the head is 2 bent valves


 How did that happen?


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

derekb727 said:


> Initial assessment of the head is 2 bent valves


 Center intake or exhaust?


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

T-Boy said:


> How did that happen?


 No idea. Did a quick look at the pistons this morning before leavings for work and saw 0 nicks. 




[email protected] said:


> Center intake or exhaust?


 
Intake


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Going to pull the block out this weekend and the machinist is going to check the PTW clearances to make sure they are within spec. I'm assuming they are not.


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

2 new valves ordered today. Thanks to Cassidy at IE!!!


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Just left the machine shop. Bad news. 

Piston to Wall Clearance was .008 and should be .004-.0045. 

The machinist that built it before overboard it, not wear at all that did that.


----------



## Three3Se7en (Jul 2, 2007)

derekb727 said:


> Just left the machine shop. Bad news.
> 
> Piston to Wall Clearance was .008 and should be .004-.0045.
> 
> The machinist that built it before overboard it, not wear at all that did that.


 And so you have to eat the cost?


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Three3Se7en said:


> And so you have to eat the cost?


 The machine shop that built the block closed


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

That sux man


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Rod Ratio said:


> That sux man


 I dont even care, just glad that I am getting it taken care of. Hopefully it will run stronger once its all back together.


----------



## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

derekb727 said:


> Just left the machine shop. Bad news.
> 
> Piston to Wall Clearance was .008 and should be .004-.0045.
> 
> The machinist that built it before overboard it, not wear at all that did that.


 
Uggghhh, this makes me angry!  

Sorry to hear man, but at least there's a lesson to be learned. I measured every bit of work I got back from a machine shop, and I have yet to get any work done that did not have to be sent back to get into spec. On the upside, I was so scared to have any of the local buffoons assemble my engine that I learned to do it myself - at least I knew who to blame if I cocked it up.  


Any insight as to why the headgasket failed, and was leaking oil?


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

derekb727 said:


> Just left the machine shop. Bad news.
> 
> Piston to Wall Clearance was .008 and should be .004-.0045.
> 
> The machinist that built it before overboard it, not wear at all that did that.


 Bore it to 83.5mm! :laugh::beer:


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

jbrehm said:


> Uggghhh, this makes me angry!
> 
> Sorry to hear man, but at least there's a lesson to be learned. I measured every bit of work I got back from a machine shop, and I have yet to get any work done that did not have to be sent back to get into spec. On the upside, I was so scared to have any of the local buffoons assemble my engine that I learned to do it myself - at least I knew who to blame if I cocked it up.
> 
> ...


 I agree, young and dumb. Its sad that you have to do that though. I am not really sure. I am just going to chalk it up to my uneducated self not knowing what I was doing. 



T-Boy said:


> Bore it to 83.5mm! :laugh::beer:


 I am hopefully going to be able to reuse the pistons. So with that I am just going to punch out a new block and roll on. New bearings, rings and such. 

Does anyone have a TQ plate they want to let me rent from them. Apparently IE does not rent them out anymore!!!


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

I'd hit up Arnold. See if he has blocks laying around, having him punch it and send it to you. 

This way, you will know it's 100% legit.


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

18T_BT said:


> I'd hit up Arnold. See if he has blocks laying around, having him punch it and send it to you.
> 
> This way, you will know it's 100% legit.


 I'd have to send him my rods as well. I have faith in this guy now, plus he is going to let me hang around and show me how to build it. He has been so much better.


----------



## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

derekb727 said:


> I'd have to send him my rods as well. I have faith in this guy now, plus he is going to let me hang around and show me how to build it. He has been so much better.


 Damn I wish I lived closer to Arnold. He has been such a great guy to deal with over the years. I was tempted to ship my whole engine to Arnold last year but just sent the head and had a local shop bore my block and they over bored the first one. everything from Arnold has been awesome.  Next time everything is going to PagParts. 

Wish you the best getting it back on the road. Sucks when this stuff happens as it happens to a lot of us but keep working in it and you will be back on the road soon


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

One-Eight GTI said:


> Damn I wish I lived closer to Arnold. He has been such a great guy to deal with over the years. I was tempted to ship my whole engine to Arnold last year but just sent the head and had a local shop bore my block and they over bored the first one. everything from Arnold has been awesome. Next time everything is going to PagParts.
> 
> Wish you the best getting it back on the road. Sucks when this stuff happens as it happens to a lot of us but keep working in it and you will be back on the road soon


 Appreciate the kind words. I agree I wish he was closer or I would even be OK with someone that does more 1.8t stuff on a more regular basis and closer to me. 

I need a Torque plate to rent, please tell me someone has one!


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Thinking about doing a watermeth setup, for some safety and to keep everything clean. Thoughts? 

Looking at either the 


Coolingmist Stage 1 
Labonete Stage 1 
Snow Performance Stage 1 

I think I like the coolingmist one the most.


----------



## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

derekb727 said:


> Thinking about doing a watermeth setup, for some safety and to keep everything clean. Thoughts?
> 
> Looking at either the
> 
> ...


 Velocity 196 loves his coolingmist setup and swears by it... My Labonte kit seems nice (only got to use it once last year) simple to wire up... Don't think Labonte is in business anymore though... Also Labonte is pretty much identical to Snow Performance just a little cheaper:thumbup: Probably can't go wrong with any of them


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Coolingmist is freaking awesome. Super high tech. But also super expensive. It's a whole different philosophy on meth injection. 

Snow performance makes great stuff and as a side benefit you get to work with [email protected] who's a great guy. Simpler to wire up, great bang for the buck.


----------



## [email protected] (Jan 2, 2009)

T-Boy said:


> Never seen that before...WOW.
> Find out what caused it? Did you re-bush the rods and use it again?


 Ignition timing = some number between the right amount and way too much.


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

groggory said:


> Coolingmist is freaking awesome. Super high tech. But also super expensive. It's a whole different philosophy on meth injection.
> 
> Snow performance makes great stuff and as a side benefit you get to work with [email protected] who's a great guy. Simpler to wire up, great bang for the buck.


 Coolingmist stage 1 is $40 cheaper then the snow performance 

I like the Coolingmist better than the others.


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

Only have experience with the Snow stage 2 kit. Good stuff! :thumbup:


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

[email protected] said:


> Ignition timing = some number between the right amount and way too much.


 That's pretty destructive....


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Where do BT guys have there nozzles positioned?


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

I think after researching I want to do a 2 nozzle setup. One just before the throttle body and one pre-turbo. Sounds like a good setup. Keep everything clean and hopefully safer


----------



## Three3Se7en (Jul 2, 2007)

Talk to [email protected], he suggested I used direct port injection and a pre TB nozzle.


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

I had a one nozzle setup right after the intercooler. I kept killing throttle bodies, so I'm not running mine until I can figure out a post T-body solution with my APR mani and Rs4 t-body. Stock t-bodies can be had for pretty cheap so I didn't mind, but the rs4 t-bodies are a different story.


----------



## superkarl (Dec 18, 2012)

derekb727 said:


> Where do BT guys have there nozzles positioned?


 hanging out their pants due to excitement :laugh:


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

derekb727 said:


> Where do BT guys have there nozzles positioned?


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Do you run one feed line off the pump and then split it 4 ways?


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

derekb727 said:


> Do you run one feed line off the pump and then split it 4 ways?


 If I'm not mistaken, one line from the pump feeds in to a check valve -> distribution block-> splits 4 lines in to mani.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...a-track-TT&p=78815351&viewfull=1#post78815351


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Thanks for the link. I shall read tonight. 

I just got off the phone with Scott @ USRT and I only have good things to say about him. What an awesome guy, very knowelgable and kept me laughing over 27 min phone call. 

Looks like I am leaning now more towards the stage 2 kit with the proportional controller that works off a MAP sensor. 2 nozzles, one in the IM and another right after the intercooler. 

Not digging the price jump but I think it will give me what I am looking for plus a little more.


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Debating on whether or not I should have the machinist degree the cams are now....? Thoughts?


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

I don't see why it wouldn't be a good idea


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Rod Ratio said:


> I don't see why it wouldn't be a good idea


Worth the cost,


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

derekb727 said:


> Worth the cost,


That's really up to you. It's not my money lol


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

What are the pro's of doing it?


----------



## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

derekb727 said:


> What are the pro's of doing it?


I would think that you will be squeezing every bit of power out of your build:thumbup: Not having cams degreed could net you a little less power if there not degreed properly... How much I don't know


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

One-Eight GTI said:


> I would think that you will be squeezing every bit of power out of your build:thumbup: Not having cams degreed could net you a little less power if there not degreed properly... *How much I don't know*


That is what I mean when I say "worth it".

Is the cost associated with doing it going to be worth the hp gain from it??


----------



## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

derekb727 said:


> That is what I mean when I say "worth it".
> 
> Is the cost associated with doing it going to be worth the hp gain from it??


That I don't know... Maybe PM Arnold or Pete to find out.. I had Arnold degree mine when I sent him my head for him to build so it was all thrown into the cost, Not sure how much it costed as it was just one lump sum... Sorry I can't be any help on that one:thumbup:


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Well, given the scope of your build Derek; just do it.

The more dialed in, the more better amirite?


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

One-Eight GTI said:


> I would think that you will be squeezing every bit of power out of your build:thumbup: Not having cams degreed could net you a little less power if there not degreed properly... How much I don't know





Rod Ratio said:


> Well, given the scope of your build Derek; just do it.
> 
> The more dialed in, the more better amirite?


Thats what I am thinking, I just need to justify it to my self is all.


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Okay, this may be way out there but wanted to toss it up just to see others thoughts.

I have thought about tig welding the wastegate to the exhaust manifold as well as the ....... turbo. I have had issues in the past with exhaust leaks and feel that this would take complete care of that. 

Do you all see any reason not to?


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Why not vband it?


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Rod Ratio said:


> Why not vband it?


Vband still leaks


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Maybe you could weld the head to the block too Derek 

No more head gasket woes amirite?


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Rod Ratio said:


> Maybe you could weld the head to the block too Derek
> 
> No more head gasket woes amirite?



ha ha


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

:laugh::beer:


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

So thanks to a fellow vortexer I am going to be able to degree the cams. Excellent. 

Now I just need to find a torque plate


----------



## pluck yew (Oct 23, 2011)

send a PM to simon-says..... we has one, but its his.


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

awsome pluck, just did


----------



## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

Y no intake manifold buddy?


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Mindfault said:


> Y no intake manifold buddy?


What? I do. Custom built by NubWorks!!


----------



## pluck yew (Oct 23, 2011)

i made pleeeenty o powerz with the Nub-manifold....


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Dropped off the block today, hopefully should have it all together by the end of next week, that would be excellent


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Here is a list of the machine work and parts that I need to get to the machinist. Can anyone see anything that I may be missing?

Thanks!

*Machine Work*

Clean Block

Bore Block

Install new valves

Line Bore?

Balance?

Assemble Long Block 
& Degree Cams

Coat Piston Dome & Skirts

Tig Weld Wastegate flange to Manifold


*Parts Needed
*
Cometic Headgasket

Block Gasket Set

ACL Main Bearings 
+.001??

ACL Rod Bearings
+.001??

Piston Rings

Torque Plate - $364.99


----------



## pluck yew (Oct 23, 2011)

deck block or at least check it.

line bore is done with new billet mains.

check valve guides, now is the time to change them if need be.

yes, balance rotating assembly. with flywheel and pressure plate, no clutch discs. no fluidamper if that is what you are running.

we run the extra clearance mains and rods as we use 20W-50 synthetic oil. we are looking for .002 to .003 or so clearance, not the typical .0015 on a plastigage.

you may talk to the machinist about polishing the journals on the crank, both mains and rods.

put tack welds on the three bolts on the crank sensor trigger wheel.

put tack weld on the 1 bolt holding the oil pump gear on the oil pump.

and if it were me (as i am me and i do this) open up the inlet to the oil pump pickup tube.


----------



## pluck yew (Oct 23, 2011)

oh yeah, and use the rear mail seal that has the spring inside.....


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

pluck yew said:


> oh yeah, and use the rear mail seal that has the spring inside.....


Never seen this, is it an oem part?

Thanks for those tid bits. I will make sure that they get done!


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

yees, they are both oem...stay away from the Teflon non-spring type seals from what i read, but I've never had them leak and installed both. i know the 9A rear main seal is what you want but you need the M6 bolts not M7 bolts: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...4440094991.234104.294598024991&type=1&theater


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

18T_BT said:


> yees, they are both oem...stay away from the Teflon non-spring type seals from what i read, but I've never had them leak and installed both. i know the 9A rear main seal is what you want but you need the M6 bolts not M7 bolts: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...4440094991.234104.294598024991&type=1&theater


When I put the first block in the first time i had a rear main seal leaking. I was so pissed!!

Do you have a part number by chance for it?

So when you say the m6 not the m7. Can i get some further clarification on this?


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

call Arnold, he'll send you the correct seal. sorry, I don't have PN. I know from factory the AWP is 06A 103 171A. oil pan bolts need to be m6, not m7 thread- so you just need to substitute two m6 flange head bolts and he should have all that



http://pagparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=34_42_58&products_id=116


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Ohh I see,

instead of having the bolts go through the oil pan into the seal it has the studs that protrude through the oil pan and then you just put nuts on them. I see I see


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

derekb727 said:


> When I put the first block in the first time i had a rear main seal leaking. I was so pissed!!
> 
> Do you have a part number by chance for it?
> 
> So when you say the m6 not the m7. Can i get some further clarification on this?


I have a special tool listed in the FAQ to help you put this seal in properly, FYI


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

groggory said:


> I have a special tool listed in the FAQ to help you put this seal in properly, FYI


Well its 197 so Ima pass, haha

Plus, it sounds like this is for the newer rear main seal. It sounds like the one to use is the older style with the spring. So in the description it says you need it for the newer style with the plastic lip


----------



## [email protected] (Jan 2, 2009)

I never have problems with the teflon ones. You just have to be careful not to bend / kink them when assembling them.


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

[email protected] said:


> I never have problems with the teflon ones. You just have to be careful not to bend / kink them when assembling them.


I bet you've put more of them in than most people here. From numerous mechanics I've talked to who've used the new seals they say they screwed it up the first time or two. Then they got the hang of it and it was no big deal.

I guess it's all a matter of practice.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

they come with a guide which is the inner plastic part people usually toss out...it looks like it's used for shipping, to keep the integrity of the seal...it's actually a guide to slip it over the spigot of the crank...i'm sure the seal is rolling over when people are installing it without and for the first time...the seal is actually flared towards the crank/block...when you don't use the guide, it can/will roll over on itself...sometimes the guide is backwards...when it's the right way, the seal will slide right on. i also use a small amount of assembly lube on the spigot and regular oil will be fine as well :thumbup:


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

That is what I did with the first one. I tossed out that plastic piece and what do you know, it leaked. Put a new one on and viola it didnt leak


----------



## pluck yew (Oct 23, 2011)

the M6 versus the M7 bolts, the two bolts that go into the seal housing thru the oil pan, directly under the crank. there are two versions. one that takes a 6mm bolt (of course) and one that takes the 7mm bolt.

this practice comes from old school hot rodding stuff, using the one with the spring. and another trick they did back in tha day is cut a couple coils off the spring to make it tighter wrapping on the crank. but you have to cut the proper side, one goes into the other, you need to cut the larger part so the smaller part can still twist into the larger one.

this is, of course, all just table talk and such, except for the bolt size thing, that really does exist.


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Excellent. Thanks for the info. Duely noted. 


Okay, 
Rent Tq plate for $200

Or. 


Buy Tq plate for $364.99


----------



## pluck yew (Oct 23, 2011)

how many blocks do you personally plan to bore?

buy it and sell it off for $300 or so, maybe. or i dunno.


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

Buy it for 365 and rent it out to make some $$$. :laugh:


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Thats what I was thinking. I think I can buy it and sell it without loosing the $200 they charge to rent it.


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Alrighty, things are coming along.

Things I need:

Break-in Oil 
Looking like I am going to be going with the Brad Penn break-in oil from IE

Going to be upgrading my wrist pins to the JE Tool Steel

Also plan to replace the o2 sensor as it has been in the car sense I have had it. Figured it cant be a bad idea to replace it.



Also, does anyone know the order of the rings on the JE Pistons?


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Just came from the machine shop this morning.

He removed the pistons and soda blasted them to remove all the carbon and such and get them ready for coating.

Come to find out that each and every valve was touching the piston ever so slightly. the intakes left no indents just a fine scratching/wear into the notches for the valve relief.
The exhaust side had some slight indents and very slight markings.

So, once we get the pistons back from being coated we are going to check all the clearances after we degree the cams. Hopefully thats all it will take. We may need to go with a slightly thicker head gasket but only time will tell.


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Damn.. Maybe have the machine shop clearance the pistons by adding deeper, more valve reliefs


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

That is a possibility. I am just hoping that once we degree the cams the clearances will be okay. I've seen retard/advance of upto 7* when people have degreed there cams. So that could be the difference rigt there between contact and no contact


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Good point


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Just picked up a set of Motegi Tracklite forged wheels in a 17x7. They weigh in at 14.5 lbs, incredibly light.

I think I have settled on going with the Hankook Ventus r-s3 tire


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Any suggestions for what I should put on the front license plate?

Oh and the new o2 sensor came in along with 12 BKR7e


----------



## superkarl (Dec 18, 2012)

Why such a narrow wheel?


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

superkarl said:


> Why such a narrow wheel?


What problem do you forsee with it?

Im going with a really sticky extreme performance tire so I am really hoping that I do not have traction issues outside of 1st gear. I would be very surprised if so.

Also, by going with this wheel tire combo I am dropping about a total of 60lbs of rotational mass which I hear is huge!


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

*Just came in that I need to install:*

New JH Motorsports modified cross rod 

Stabilizer bar bushing


*Ordering today:*


New PTC wrist pins

Rear Main Seal

Brad Penn Break in Oil

Brad Penn part synthetic race oil


*Yesterday I was able to get some work done on the car.*

I relocated the battery to a different location in the trunk

re-did all the gauge wires and cleaned up the wires under the dash

wired in all new resistors for the deletes

painted the end tanks of the intercooler


*Stuff I need to do before the motor is complete:*

gravity bleed clutch slave cylinder

shifter items

remove paint from the tail lights

finish mesh for front bumper and get painted

make a more secure mount for the battery

clean-up in the engine bay

get tires mounted on the new wheels



I am trying to think of some weight reduction items. Any suggestions?
I want to keep everything as factory looking as possible on the inside!. The one thing that I would do is remove the factory seats, I absolutely hate them. Does anyone know off hand how much the B5 A4 seats weigh? I guess I could pull it out and weight it worst case.

Ive done all the deletes in the engine bay, no A/C. all i really did was remove the pieces of the A/C in the engine bay. Are there items that I need to remove under the dash for the A/C?

I've also removed everything from the trunk as well. I plan to cut out the spare tire compartment and weld in some other metal in there and replace that with a fuel cell down the road as well. As long as the car will stay together!!


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

derekb727 said:


> What problem do you forsee with it?
> 
> Im going with a really sticky extreme performance tire so I am really hoping that I do not have traction issues outside of 1st gear. I would be very surprised if so.
> 
> Also, by going with this wheel tire combo I am dropping about a total of 60lbs of rotational mass which I hear is huge!



I think he infers that you can go with something like a 17x8 or 9 and fit a wider tire for better traction. 7 inch rims shouldn't have more than 225 wide tire, otherwise they will look like super swampers and the sidewall will flex  So, if you get say a 8 or 9 inch wide rim you can go from 245 to 275 wide tire. I know it will weight slightly more then your current set up (based on what wheels you get and wider tires are heavier as well) but should grip a lot better :thumbup:

If you removed the A/C compressor, did you remove the condenser and all other associated lines in the engine bay? Under the dash there isn't much hard line, it should go through your firewall and you will see both high and low lines but it's all aluminum so it doesn't really weigh that much. The seats should weigh about 50lbs each. There is padding under the carpets, I'd remove that and leave the carpet in place. If rear seats are removed you can remove rear door cards etc. It depends on how minimalist you want to become


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Yah the tires that I am going with are going to be 215/45-17. plus they have a treadware of 140 so they should grip excellent. 
Do you all really think that I will have traction issues with this setup and my AWD?

Yes I removed everything for the a/c upto the firewall. I want to keep the stock look on the inside as much as possible, seats not included


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

even quattro spins tires, i mean it's power to weight like anything else...you will still grip and go fast, but wider is usually better when it comes to tq/hp....if you already have them, run em you'll eventually need new tires anyway as these are 140 treadwear, so you can upgrade later if you feel you need more grip :thumbup:


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

18T_BT said:


> even quattro spins tires, i mean it's power to weight like anything else...you will still grip and go fast, but wider is usually better when it comes to tq/hp....if you already have them, run em you'll eventually need new tires anyway as these are 140 treadwear, so you can upgrade later if you feel you need more grip :thumbup:



I dont daily the car so I am expecting the tires to last a bit. I wonder how much of a difference it will be between a 7inch wide tire and a 8.5 inch wide tire? How much difference is it really going to be?


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

derekb727 said:


> I dont daily the car so I am expecting the tires to last a bit. I wonder how much of a difference it will be between a 7inch wide tire and a 8.5 inch wide tire? How much difference is it really going to be?


FYI, in addition to tire... your alignment settings make a big difference on how the car handles, grips, and performs. This includes motor mounts, suspension mounts, suspension angles, and all that.

And of course, tire temp, road temp, and tire pressure.


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

groggory said:


> FYI, in addition to tire... your alignment settings make a big difference on how the car handles, grips, and performs. *This includes motor mounts, suspension mounts, suspension angles, and all that.
> *
> And of course, tire temp, road temp, and tire pressure.


Curious to read in to this more, have a link or something?


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

derekb727 said:


> Curious to read in to this more, have a link or something?


Hit the suspension forum Derek. There's a lot of info in there explaining the basic, and advanced principals of performance alignments. In reality a proper alignment will give you MORE in the way of handling than just throwing suspension parts at it.

I had amazing handling in my B5 A4q with 'just' eibach springs, konis, and a Nuespeed rear sway.

The alignment was very dialed in however. I out handled cars on expensive suspension systems because of the alignment. It makes that much of a difference. :thumbup:


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

i ran the rs2 and the rs3 and i still prefer the direzza star spec. they are stickier(especially the Z2) and superior in the wet and they last FAR FAR longer than the rs3 or 2 does.

i'm 15x8 with star specs and they are awesome..though i will be going 16x9 in the future with the Z2's


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Scott at usrt has some cool suspension products

Give him a call


----------



## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

groggory said:


> FYI, in addition to tire... your alignment settings make a big difference on how the car handles, grips, and performs. This includes motor mounts, suspension mounts, suspension angles, and all that.
> 
> And of course, tire temp, road temp, and tire pressure.


Huge +1. Setting up a _system_ well is more important than the quality of the system (assuming that you don't run utter crap like $500 coilovers). There is obviously a plethora of information out there once you know what to look for, but here's a good start: http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets.html. Fair warning that it take a _lot_ or work to properly setup a car, which, of course, is why almost no one does it.

And another +1 for Star Specs - they're wonderful street tires. :thumbup:


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

This just goes into how much of a noob I truly am. I've been reading on this performance suspension and corner balancing. It really is amazing and interesting. I am looking forward to diving more into it once the car is back on the street. I work at a dealership and have access to an alignment rack so with the help of some of my friends (techs here at the dealership) I should be able to dial in the suspension the way I need to.


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Pistons coated. 

Block bored with torque plate. Should be all back together soon


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

:thumbup:


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Pistons Coated!! 



TQ plate on!!


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

still waiting on the engine to get back from the machine shop. should be soon!


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

:beer:


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Dropped of freeze plugs this morning! 

He is going to pick up the crank and everything associated with balancing it today (apparently he has to outsource that). So hopefully it will start getting put together. I am getting very antsy....I just want to have it back. 

Who thinks that my car will trap 125+mph in 1/4?


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

What is your expected power to weight?


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

18T_BT said:


> What is your expected power to weight?


 3600 id estimate on the high side and 450-475awhp conservatively


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

at 3600lbs you'll need north of 540chp to get 125mph traps...of course this all depends on launch etc. 

play around with this: http://www.turbofast.com.au/Drag.html


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

18T_BT said:


> at 3600lbs you'll need north of 540chp to get 125mph traps...of course this all depends on launch etc.
> 
> play around with this: http://www.turbofast.com.au/Drag.html


 Any idea to the drive train loss with quattro?


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

derekb727 said:


> Any idea to the drive train loss with quattro?


 I'd figure 20-25% driveline loss with Quattro.

@ 20% loss 475whp = 570chp

@ 25% loss 475whp = 593.75chp

I don't see why your setup wouldn't put you there with a SOLID tune :beer:


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Rod Ratio said:


> I'd figure 20-25% driveline loss with Quattro.
> 
> @ 20% loss 475whp = 570chp
> 
> ...


 This is where I am lost. No one around me tune's on Maestro and all I have right now is a VAP Motorsports tune from another car (not specific to mine). 

I do not have time time or knowledge to dive into trying to tune it myself and get the results that I want... 

Plus I would love to run E85 for sure


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Looking like it is going to be Maestro tuned by Gonzo on E85!!


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

:beer:


----------



## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

derekb727 said:


> Looking like it is going to be Maestro tuned by Gonzo on E85!!


 Am I understanding this correctly., Gonzo will tune Maestro???


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

One-Eight GTI said:


> Am I understanding this correctly., Gonzo will tune Maestro???


 That is what he told me. Remotely as well


----------



## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

derekb727 said:


> That is what he told me. Remotely as well


 Dude, can't wait for the results, he might end up being a busy guy if it turns out good... This gets me excited to keeping Maestroopcorn:opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

One-Eight GTI said:


> Am I understanding this correctly., Gonzo will tune Maestro???


 He tunes maestro:beer:


----------



## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Rod Ratio said:


> He tunes maestro:beer:


 Awesome, I'm getting an alignment tomorrow (Had subframe ect all apart this winter) than I can finally drive my car again.. I will be contacting him soon, In fact I'm gonna E-mail him now:thumbup:


----------



## Three3Se7en (Jul 2, 2007)

Rod Ratio said:


> He tunes maestro:beer:


 Oh snap. :heart:


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Had to order standard size main bearings over the +.001 that I ordered. The +.001 rod bearings are going to work perfect. 
I'm just so ready to put this thing back together.


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Successfully removed ~25 lbs from the car today. Lots more to come.


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Looks like I am getting bigger injectors...... Genesis 2000cc?


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

derekb727 said:


> Looks like I am getting bigger injectors...... Genesis 2000cc?


 Might be a bit excessive Derek. Talk to groggs, or scott at USRT about your needs:beer:


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Will do.


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

i pulled most of my interior out over the past few days. trying to move stuff that I dont want and also wanted to really clean the carpet and make it look good on the inside.

While doing all this I decided to pull my headliner and rewrap it. Pics to come once I get the new stuff on!


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Now you just need to stance it on RS lol


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

No, lol


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

derekb727 said:


> No, lol


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

I love that cat!


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Alrighty,

New Cometic Head Gasket is ordered

Actual CR is *8.8:1*


Turns out my exhaust manifold was warped causing an exhaust leak at the head! That was machined flat so all goes well no more exhaust leaks. 
Also going to have the waste gate adapter welded to the wastegate and exhaust manifold. No possible leaks there now.

I had to use Standard clearance main bearings and +.001 rod bearings to get clearances of .002-.0025.

Cams are degreed in. The centerline for both cams was 112* - the exhaust was set to 108* and intake 110*.

Before degree the intake was 111* and the exhaust was 116*

All piston to valve clearances check and all clear.


Priced out VP 110 - 55 gal drum @ $475per

Priced out VP Q16 - 55 gal drum @ $775per

Cost to (injectors, pump, tune) switch to E85 - $1370

Should have engine and everything back together by next weekend if all goes well!


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

Sweet....looking forward to some results! :thumbup::beer:


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

GoPro is ready!!


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

034 rear sway and brackets will be on the way shortly!


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Had the machinist pull the exhaust mani off and check its flatness...well lets just say it wasn't. So had that resurfaced. Also, I am having him weld the wastegate to the exhaust mani as well as the adapter flange to the wastegate. No leaks there!!

I can not imagine how bad the car was running with the 1 and 4 cylinders leaking as bad as it looked. There was so much black soot on the part of the cylinder head were the leak was occurring. 

I am fine with it though, just means the car is going to run better once its all back together since it appears we are fixing everything.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

:beer: for sticking it out buddy


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## Three3Se7en (Jul 2, 2007)

Rod Ratio said:


> :beer: for sticking it out buddy


I need one of those too, RR.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

The cost to run corn initially sucks. My car is much more basic of a setup and I am into for a good amount, but damn does it run sweet. Engine runs smoother, and so far I've got the timing cranked up pretty good to around 25° or so

Only downfall? Car smells like a bottle of rubbing alcohol when you catch a whiff of the exhaust.


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

I am going to get the motor back in and car going then I am going to start thinking more about the corn. I cant seem to find a reason not to do it for me right now!


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## Three3Se7en (Jul 2, 2007)

Closest station to me for E85 is is about 65 miles away. Damn Mississippi it's time to get into the 21st century.


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

I'm looking forward to see how Gonzo does on your tune. Can't wait for you to get back on the road


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Thanks gents. There are 2 in my city. Both within 10 miles so I should be fine!

Hoping to get the motor back and installed Wednesday!!


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Sway bar just came in, this thing is beastly!!

No motor yet, I have a hard time with patiently waiting for something.

Waiting on the Cometic Headgasket to come in.


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Ready for her new heart anytime now


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Woot! :beer:


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## ANT THE KNEE (Aug 25, 2000)

Really nice endtanks on IC :thumbup:


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Yo Thanks!

Also, the head gasket came in so planning on getting the engine tomorrow for install!


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Wonder what I should rev it out to?


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Meh, 8 grand would be my max. Sure, you could rev higher, but do you really want to?


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## superkarl (Dec 18, 2012)

wherever it stops making power


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

I know it will make power past 8 forsure. 

I'm thinking if I shift at 8 that might be 8200-8500 in the lower gears. By the time I do shift.


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## 1999.5GTIVR6 (Jun 15, 2011)

Im wondering how to safely limit my system aswell. 

what is the limiting factor on your set up? 9.5:1?


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

1999.5GTIVR6 said:


> Im wondering how to safely limit my system aswell.
> 
> what is the limiting factor on your set up? 9.5:1?


Im a true 8.8:1 

My valvetrain at anything past 8500 I would say.


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Motor is done. Just need to pick it up. Too bad I am on my way to Florida.


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)




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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

About damn time!


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Maybe I can fire it up tmrw


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Awwww yeaaa! 

Looking good duder! opcorn:

Edit: did you get the suspension sorted?


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qx1unJXhO1o


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Not yet. Need to get it running to get it to the alignment rack


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

Nice Derek...:thumbup:


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Cams sound sweet


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Thanks guys. Current tune is ****! Or something else is ****. Did a 2-3-4 pull tonight and afr was 12-13.5, ouch


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Didn't log anything. My laptop was dead. And I didn't feel like waiting.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Do logs and send em to gonzo. He'll do a good maestro tune for ya


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

That's the plan. I emailed him last night asking him a best plan of action


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Yuuuuuuuuuuuuuuup!!!


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

This video better:thumbup:


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Yah. That's better. Lol


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Bare with me please: 

I never replaced the lifters in this AEB head - I hear some strange noises when the car starts sometime and I have no idea what they are. They may be normal but Like I said....no idea. 

I'm not 100% sure how they work but can bad lifters cause power loss? My thinking is that if they are collapsed they are not letting the valve open all the way....thus reducing power. 

I have the big cams of course and non-new lifters....? 

Is there a way to check to see if the lifters are in fact good? 

I am taking the manifold off tonight so while I am in the garage I guess I can check the lifters if possible. 

Thank you gentleman


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Here comes the tubular!!


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

:thumbup:


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Looking like a part out is coming :/


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Derek; no offense, but are you just going to continue to throw parts at this thing expecting better results? You need to dial in what you have before you move forward. 

Just sayin


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

I agree. I don't feel like I am "throwing" parts at it. I am trying to get my hardware solid. It's hard to dial in with faulty hardware.


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Ok, I am going to take one more swing at it.

I am going to fix the cracked flange, brace it to help it from cracking later, helicoil the stud for the turbo, re-surface the head flange again, put it all back together and hope for the best. 

Everyone cross your fingers for me this time and hope that it works!!!


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)




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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

derekb727 said:


> Ok, I am going to take one more swing at it.
> 
> I am going to fix the cracked flange, brace it to help it from cracking later, helicoil the stud for the turbo, re-surface the head flange again, put it all back together and hope for the best.
> 
> Everyone cross your fingers for me this time and hope that it works!!!



is this with the new mani that you had built?


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

No. I'm trying this cast ATP mani again. It's hard to just bite $1500 to get it all done. 
It's back together and I drove the car tonight. I will check it again tomorrow to see if it has any exhaust leaks. 
I'm just tired of the car, it's tearing me apart and emptying my wallet.


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Could my tru boost EBC be causing the onset of my boost to be delayed?


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

derekb727 said:


> Could my tru boost EBC be causing the onset of my boost to be delayed?


yes, because it allows to taper the boost onset via the solenoid, essentially duty cycle...


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Still boost is way late with just wastegate pressure.


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Email out to Gonzo. Lets hope he can save this pony.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

derekb727 said:


> Email out to Gonzo. Lets hope he can save this pony.


:beer: did you send him logs?


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

As soon as he tells me what to do.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

derekb727 said:


> As soon as he tells me what to do.


Good! You need the gonz breh


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

I need it bad


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Logs are out to Gonzo.

I think I may have found a glitch in my current tune. The max load I see under WOT and 25+psi is 187. Should be well over 200. So that has something to do with my flowmeter. Lets hope Gonzo can get this figured out for me.


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Anixiously awaiting to get this car Gonzo tuned


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

derekb727 said:


> Anixiously awaiting to get this car Gonzo tuned


You and me both. Can't wait to see how gonzo does with maestro. If all is well with your tune than I'm getting him to tune mine


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Well. Moving forward with the tubular exhaust mani. Ordered the waste gate, Tial MVS 38mm in black. 

Also, having NubWorks build me a coolant resivoir and catch can in one. Once I start getting some things I'll post some pictures. 

Once the manifold is done I should be able to get the Gonzo tune. Since I should be free of exhaust leaks.


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

The tubular manifold and coolant tank/catch can are both currently in production


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Coolant catch can combo is complete thanks to NubWorks!! Amazing welds and a hell of a deal. 

Turbo is positioned and it will start to come alive this week. Once the manifold is finished we will be able to rework the inter cooling hot side piping and down pipe.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

:thumbup:


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## un1ko (Apr 6, 2004)

Subscribed :beer:


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Pics are coming, stand by


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Catch Can / Coolant Tank built by NubWorks



New Turbo Placement vs. Old



Collector



New Placement



Coming Together



Piece by Piece


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Dude! You can bar-b-q on your hood now! :laugh:

In all seriousness; I can't wait to see how she rolls with a tight engine. The other **** may help, but that engine was ****ed


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Yah the previous engine was ****ed. After the new engine went in I was plagued with exhaust leak after exhaust leak. I tried to fix the mani that I had over and over again with no luck. I could have saved a few dollars and went with a cast like the SPA but I then would of had to pay to get the DP and intercooler piping redone and a dumptube made. Have the same person do all that and make the tubular exhaust manifold only cost $300 extra, that make sense?


I am feeling good that once this thing comes back together that I will have a strong running car. Since I drove it last I will have:


More venting of blow by

Exhaust leak free

New wiring harness to get the proper reading of fuel trims

Going to do a boost leak test as well before it goes back together.

So everything should be solid once I drive it next.


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Damn dude looking good, Love Nubworks stuff, awesome combo tank


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

yes, he is awesome. He made that beautiful Intake Manifold as well. 



*So, I am thinking that I am going to route the wastegate dump through the hooooood!!!*


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

So I guess I should mention since this is a complete build thread.

My OEM power steering low pressure side hose was leaking. so I decided to fix that and add in a more compact cooler for it. also, moving the resivoir down out fo the way.

I picked up a new wiring harness so i can have everything, this time instead of cutting things off I am just going to tuck it away.

i removed the mechanical fan because it broke (literally one of the fan blades broke off) and I will be replacing it with a 10" electrical fan.

my syncros are starting to go so i got a shifter extender and weighted shift knob to help me get into first and into second. hopefully it will work for the time being.

picked up a non-liquid filled gauge for my FPR.

Think that is about it....?


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

*I AM DONE! click here
*


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Click here to go to the part out thread!!


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Park it and go back to it in a few months.

This far along you might as well enjoy it for a little while


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## un1ko (Apr 6, 2004)

Sad to hear you're parting out your car. But congratulation on your new baby!


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

un1ko said:


> Sad to hear you're parting out your car. But congratulation on your new baby!


Thanks man!


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

un1ko said:


> Sad to hear you're parting out your car. But congratulation on your new baby!


^^^what he said


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

On a good note I do plan on buying a 2016 GTD, throwing KW v3's on it, lightweight wheels and tires, brakes, tune and exhaust and tracking it. Plan is for road course and autox. Im sure it will be a fun, dependable, safe, car for the family. haha

I love my Jetta TDi that I have now, it just drives like SH*T


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

new Part out thread


http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-Big-Turbo-BUILT*****&p=83146122#post83146122


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