# 2011 TT mod progress



## rtbrjason (Jun 14, 2015)

I've recently picked up a 2011 TT. I've got some plans for it and got started with the interior mods.

On the left (driver) vent, I used an OSIR pod to install a NewSouth boost gauge. I used the 42DD boost tap for this, but wouldn't use that setup again. There is an unused nipple off the intake that could be tapped/drilled and used for free.

In the centermost vent, I've got the P3Cars multi-function OBD2 gauge. It's got the track pack chip installed in it so it shows wide-band AFR data.

The stock head-unit (Concert) was replaced with a Witson Android 4.4 carpc. It's from China but seems to do what I want it to. No splicing of wires at all has taken place and the steering wheel controls, and such all work. I've got an Audi backup camera on my bench that will be going in as well as the GPS antenna extension cable from Enfig. I've also picked up their amplified FM antenna adapter in hopes of getting slightly better reception on the FM tuner.

Aside from those larger items, I also replaced all the interior bulbs with LEDs that I had left over from doing the same project on my truck.

Only other plans for the interior of this car will be to figure out some kind of clean factory looking rear seat delete option.


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## bonefish (Aug 8, 2006)

Very nice

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## milo (Feb 19, 2002)

Clean install 👍


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## OrangeA4 (Oct 31, 2000)

Awesome
subbed for updates


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## Fined (Sep 3, 2013)

sweet! so you are thinking the OE GPS unit will work? And all you are changing is the reach of the cable? If that is the case I will have to make a consideration of this Witson unit. Looking forward to updates. In for updates about the turn by turn function in the dash.


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## rtbrjason (Jun 14, 2015)

Fined said:


> sweet! so you are thinking the OE GPS unit will work? And all you are changing is the reach of the cable? If that is the case I will have to make a consideration of this Witson unit. Looking forward to updates. In for updates about the turn by turn function in the dash.


The nav is all setup and working with the antenna Witson provided. It just doesn't work that well, and I didn't run it that well. I knew it was a temporary solution so I just routed it under the trim to the back seat for now. It does lose GPS signal at times as is.

My understanding, is that the shark fin on the roof contains the gps antenna. It routes over to the passenger side door in the ceiling area and stops there. Enfig sells a cable that will take it from there and allow you to use it on your aftermarket GPS. There is a youtube video from the owner of Enfig where he shows how to install his aftermarket microphone in the stock location and he mentions the GPS line there. He also provides some tips for how to remove the trim pieces.

The nav software Witson provided is most likely from a torrent file, but it appears to work okay. It even has a little Audi TT driving along on screen as you move. Aside from that, you can use any nav software from the google play store. Google maps works very well but uses a lot of data. The nav software they provide is usable without data.


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## 1wheelonly (Jul 25, 2015)

There a 4 types of sharkfin so make sure you have the gps one mate 
Some are for phone prep 
Phone prep and gps 
Etc etc 

Are you sure that reverse camera fits ? 
I had 3 before I got one that fitted properly, also taking power and switch live from the reverse light alone doesn't work, it will flicker
This is the one I ended up with, it allows you to keep full number plate led and the camera is slightly angled to centralise it 


















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## rtbrjason (Jun 14, 2015)

I was fortunate enough to have the GPS lead in the upper trim area of the passenger side. I was able to run the extension cable from Enfig, but had to splice it into the aftermarket antenna cable to get the proper lead. It also has the SAT radio antenna in the same place but the android setup does not have hardware to support xm/sirius. The nav is working considerably better with the stock shark fin gps vs the aftermarket antenna kit provided with the Witson carpc.

The reverse camera did fit, but it's a piece of crap. I had to re-solder the video lead back to the board. Also when I installed it, it was half covered by the deck lid. When I removed it, it split in half. I put it back together with super glue, some spacing material (vacuum line) and electrical tape. It's fairly solid for now and with the spacing material it clears the deck lid. The view isn't as nice as what you've pictured and I'm going to keep looking for a better solution. 

On my Subaru, I had a Kenwood CCD - 2000. I can't find another one for sale for a reasonable price but that camera was perfect. Even working, this current one has poor video quality and is quite jittery.

Also, the LED in the reverse camera throws a bulb error. I've got some 50w 6ohm resistors coming to attempt to remedy that issue.


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## rtbrjason (Jun 14, 2015)

Downpipe install was next. I went with the ATP unit, non catted, non resonated. I did wrap the first section to keep undressed temps down but haven't noticed it having helped much.

Install went fairly smooth with the exception of one stud that need to be replaced on the turbo. I wish I'd gone with a resonated unit and may eventually swap to a resonated setup. After warmup, idle is quiet, highway cruising is quiet, but when you get on it, it's quite loud and raspy with some serious fart like noises between shifts. It's loud enough that I can't really get on it as much as I'd like some of the time. 

I'd considered having a resonator welded in, but I'm not sure there is a long enough section of straight pipe to put it where it won't interfere with the driveshaft.

Once installed, it threw a check engine light as expected so I took it to a local APR dealer to upgrade to stage2. I had assumed it was already APR stage1 based on hitting 18 psi fairly smoothly. I was told that there was no tune installed on it at all and shelled out a bit over $800 to have it put to APR stage2. Clearly some other company can do tunes for this car, but I wasn't sure how to find out what tune was on the car already. It looks like Revo is a possibility but at this point it doesn't much matter.


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## rtbrjason (Jun 14, 2015)

After the stage2 flash, I decided to make sure my ignition was up to par and replaced the coils and plugs based on advice I've read here. I used the Audi R8 coils (06E-905-115-E) ($78 on amazon) and a set of NGK V Power (BKR7E) copper plugs. As the plugs are so easy to change in this car, I see no reason to use anything other than copper replaced fairly regularly. These plugs were $2.49 a piece at my local Advanced Auto.

Plugs were gapped to .32 and I left them that way. So far no noticeable misfiring.


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## rtbrjason (Jun 14, 2015)

Next up was the intake. I was really on the fence about this as I suspect the stock intake supports considerably more power than I can make on the K03 and maybe even the K04. Still, I wanted to clean up the engine bay a bit and make the intake tract a bit cleaner so I decided I would do an intake. 

After a bit of shopping, the only thing I found that was a guaranteed fit was the carbonio that Apr is selling. After reading the review from Boarderjcj, I was a bit turned off by the design and what you're getting for your money. I decided to try the VWracing intake which was listed on one site as being compatible with my 2011 TT. The boxes shows it to be for a Golf MK6. (VWR12G6GT @ $399). It pretty much fit, though it didn't quite reach all the way to the air inlet behind the grill. I ended up fabricating a piece of plastic to act as the rest of the duct and seal off the intake from the engine bay air.

I like this setup as the filter is foam and open in the front for maximum air flow. Didn't notice any power gains here, and with the ducting all in place it's not that loud. If I didn't have a loud exhaust I'd probably be able to hear it better. A very slight increase in blow off noise is about all I noticed. Intake air temperature don't appear to have changed at all from the stock setup.


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## rtbrjason (Jun 14, 2015)

Next up I decided to do the Whiteline front sway bar links (KLC167A $120 on amazon), again based off boarderjcj's review comments. This was a really straight forward install and despite being in the same general area as boarderjcj, I didn't encounter any issues with rust. Everything came apart first shot and went back together just as easy with the new parts.

As far as impressions, it definitely feels a bit tighter, but I didn't drive the car on the stock setup for long enough to realize as much of a difference as boarderjcj did.

Also pictured here is the rear sway bar (H&R) which was on the car when I purchased it. I also took a shot of the rear links as I'm not sure if they are stock or not. If not does anyone know what brand they are? I didn't see any markings on them. Assuming they're stock, I will likely replace these with Whiteline parts as well.


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## rtbrjason (Jun 14, 2015)

Fined said:


> sweet! so you are thinking the OE GPS unit will work? And all you are changing is the reach of the cable? If that is the case I will have to make a consideration of this Witson unit. Looking forward to updates. In for updates about the turn by turn function in the dash.


I would avoid the Witson unit. I ended up returning this due to fitment issue as well as general buggyness. I replaced it with a unit from CARDVDGPS. It's also a Chinese company, but they do sales on eBay and I was able to custom order a unit with a quad core cpu upgrade as well as the 1024x600 screen update. It was cheaper than the Witson and fitment on this one was perfect the first time. No software buggyness, though I have since rooted and loaded a better OS with lots of updated software and features for these units.


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## rtbrjason (Jun 14, 2015)

*Dogbone insert*

I had some clanging from the downpipe on some WOT shifts and decided to try one of the mount inserts. I went for the Powerflex (made for diesel vehicles) as it was the most forgiving of the options offered.

On every previous car I've regretted these kind of mods as I don't car for any increase in NVH. This was no different. Despite being offered in 3-4 different stiffnesses, the Powerflex insert that I used (least stiff Red 65A poly) was still too much for my taste. Shifts and access/decel definitely feel better with the insert, but the vibration at idle was enough for me to quickly uninstall it. I'd like to find something that can offer some of the stiffness without the vibration, but I'm doubtful that there is such a thing.

I was able to re-oritent the down-pipes rear section a bit and hopefully got rid of all the clanging.


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## [email protected] (Jun 26, 2013)

Great list of modifications so far! Can't wait to see what you do next :thumbup:


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## Evilevo (Apr 29, 2009)

rtbrjason said:


> I had some clanging from the downpipe on some WOT shifts and decided to try one of the mount inserts. I went for the Powerflex (made for diesel vehicles) as it was the most forgiving of the options offered.
> 
> On every previous car I've regretted these kind of mods as I don't car for any increase in NVH. This was no different. Despite being offered in 3-4 different stiffnesses, the Powerflex insert that I used (least stiff Red 65A poly) was still too much for my taste. Shifts and access/decel definitely feel better with the insert, but the vibration at idle was enough for me to quickly uninstall it. I'd like to find something that can offer some of the stiffness without the vibration, but I'm doubtful that there is such a thing.
> 
> I was able to re-oritent the down-pipes rear section a bit and hopefully got rid of all the clanging.


Check out 034s new billet dogbone insert. They claim it produces no additional NVH but adds all the benefits of an insert. It's only $40 or so, so worth a shot. I have one coming for my RS.


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## rtbrjason (Jun 14, 2015)

Evilevo said:


> Check out 034s new billet dogbone insert. They claim it produces no additional NVH but adds all the benefits of an insert. It's only $40 or so, so worth a shot. I have one coming for my RS.


Looks like it's significantly stiffer than what I tried already but maybe doesn't fill the whole space as much. I'd be really interested in your opinions on it before/after. It was really only at idle that I noticed major vibration increase really.


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## Evilevo (Apr 29, 2009)

rtbrjason said:


> Looks like it's significantly stiffer than what I tried already but maybe doesn't fill the whole space as much. I'd be really interested in your opinions on it before/after. It was really only at idle that I noticed major vibration increase really.


They claim that since it doesn't fill as far up, it won't increase NVH. And mine was the same, only vibration at idle. I had UM raise the idle on my tune and it helped, but it was still there somewhat and annoying.


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## rtbrjason (Jun 14, 2015)

I have an OB2 bluetooth module in my Ford Expedition, which is currently down for a new set of lifters and some other stuff before winter hits. After rooting the android head-unit in the TT, I decided to give the bluetooth module a try. It's working perfectly so far with the Torque app as pictured below. I did order a OBD splitter cable in hopes of being able to run the bluetooth module as well as the P3cars gauge, but neither worked with the splitter.

I really like the P3cars gauge, but it doesn't have near the functionality of the torque app. I guess I will probably be selling the gauge 2nd hand and using that center vent for a water injection gauge/controller in the future.


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## ShockwaveCS (Jun 22, 2006)

Nice! Can't wait until the ilx-007 can support jail broken devices so i can get dash command on mine


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