# Delete vaccum pump or not?



## Wolfsburg007 (Apr 21, 2011)

Hi I have a 07 bgq 2.5 stock wolfsburg. Would I cause any damaged by buying the block off plate for the brake vacuum pump and re routing to the intake manifold with a check valve? Car is a automatic. I just am thinking if I gotta go there it should only be once. Any thoughts ? Or should I just buy a new pump. Other wise I was going to buy the c or b revision pump being they can be had for 160 new

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## Wolfsburg007 (Apr 21, 2011)

No one? 

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## the snake 87 (May 26, 2013)

I heard that isn't an issue since the 5 speed manual's don't have the pump and actually run that set up. I personally am just replacing the pump but also adding that silicone gasket sealant the plate so it won't leak again down the road. Otherwise, you hit the nail on the head with exactly how you perform the other option.


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## Wolfsburg007 (Apr 21, 2011)

the snake 87 said:


> I heard that isn't an issue since the 5 speed manual's don't have the pump and actually run that set up. I personally am just replacing the pump but also adding that silicone gasket sealant the plate so it won't leak again down the road. Otherwise, you hit the nail on the head with exactly how you perform the other option.


Ya i'm going to buy the c revision its 160 where I found it new. Found a follow dubber that will do it for 50 a hr. Said 2 to 3.i can get it all apart. My hand are just to big to get in there. So dealer wants 1050.00. This way should cost me 320 max

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## the snake 87 (May 26, 2013)

Wolfsburg007 said:


> Ya i'm going to buy the c revision its 160 where I found it new. Found a follow dubber that will do it for 50 a hr. Said 2 to 3.i can get it all apart. My hand are just to big to get in there. So dealer wants 1050.00. This way should cost me 320 max
> 
> Sent From My 0x1 Note 3.i love tep....


Not a bad deal at all! I have smaller hands so I'm doing it with my dad at the hangar he works at. He's going to be putting in his new intercooler on his 2013 Focus ST so it's gonna be a huge project day lol

I personally just bought a used B version and am going to seal the plate and do it myself at the same time I drop my oil and tranny pans. The only issue with these pumps is that seal between the pump and its cover plate, and I'm just going to add the same gasket silicone for my oil pan to it. Then when I'm done swapping I'll just reseal my old pump as well as put a new O ring in it and sell it used since the pump itself works perfectly fine. That way I honestly won't lose much, if any money on it. I bought mine used for $80, plus $12 for the tube of silicone sealant, so I should be able to easily make $70 back.

Once I do my engine build when I pay it off, I'll put the pump delete plate on and re-route. I plan on doing a K03 turbo build and build up, so I'll address it when the time comes lol

EDIT: Now that I'm re-Googling everything... I may just sell the pump I have and do the delete plate... I heard the pumps cause a lot a lot of noise lol


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## Wolfsburg007 (Apr 21, 2011)

So my wife just called. Had here run can to a local well establiahed tuner shop around here. Owners said its damp not even a active leak. Said he wouldnt even worry about it until I see oil on the ground. With that said I my just wait till july and do it. My suspension will get done first. I to am leaning towards the delete. Just wish had some feed back on it From others who have done it. 

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## the snake 87 (May 26, 2013)

Mine isn't an active leak either but it seems to leak slowly when there is power. It just slowly strings over my block and collects down on the skid guard/plate. More of a nuisance but that's my only oil issue. I don't lose nearly enough oil over my intervals to be worried about anything right yet, I just want to fix it before it gets way worse.

My main issue is where to connect the brake booster once the delete plate is on. USP says that I have to tap into the manifold (literally drill into it) and install a fitting. But how do the manual trans cars do it then? That's where I'm lost.


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## the snake 87 (May 26, 2013)

I GOT IT FINALLY!

Thank you Integrated Engineering for being the only people to FINALLY help me figure this out.

What you need to delete the vacuum pump...

IE Vacuum Pump Delete Plate
IE Manifold Boost Tap

The boost tap allows us to keep the breather system and not have to drill into the dang manifold. The tap is what we will connect the vacuum hose to. If you decide to cap the breather anyway, then we will need a oil catch can set up.

Hope this helps. It sure helped me! Can't wait to sell my pumps and do this!

EDIT: Guess we need a catch can regardless according to IE


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## Wolfsburg007 (Apr 21, 2011)

the snake 87 said:


> I GOT IT FINALLY!
> 
> Thank you Integrated Engineering for being the only people to FINALLY help me figure this out.
> 
> ...


well at that pricing then it be cheaper just to replace the pump. i dont get why we would need a catch can if you use a check valve.


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## the snake 87 (May 26, 2013)

Wolfsburg007 said:


> well at that pricing then it be cheaper just to replace the pump. i dont get why we would need a catch can if you use a check valve.


That's why I am incredibly confused as well... because I'm pretty sure the manual trans 2.5Ls don't have that setup. I may try it just to see... since I'm not removing the original breathers and what not. All this does is tap into it.


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## Wolfsburg007 (Apr 21, 2011)

i just wish someone who has done this for the automatic would just answer the questions lol. all i ever found was block off plate a audi 1.8t check valve and tap it in. all i ever seen. seems to be one of the only things for our cars that is majorly common as a issue. that no one has done a diy on.


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## the snake 87 (May 26, 2013)

I planned to do a DIY myself for at least replacing it lol, just would be cool if people actually shared their secrets.


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## Wolfsburg007 (Apr 21, 2011)

the snake 87 said:


> I planned to do a DIY myself for at least replacing it lol, just would be cool if people actually shared their secrets.


I just left autozone haynes now has a manual for our car. It actually references just taking apart and gapping the transmission from the engine. When I get home I'll scan those areas and send you an p_m with how to do it


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## Wolfsburg007 (Apr 21, 2011)

Sent From My 0x1 Note 3.i love tep....


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## the snake 87 (May 26, 2013)

I actually have a pdf manual that I found online for $20, very close to the Bentley manual haha, But I'm going to draw a diagram later and see what to do


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## deserttaxguy (Jan 2, 2011)

*Thanks for the info on the "Tranny Split"*

I dont get how the trans case can move apart very much at all with the axle attached? Thats just one little thing that seems to be glossed over with this method.
Like some other thread comments mention. We need a DIY for sure for both the pump delete and the trans split.

Good luck with your project. Please post the details of what you do. I'm inclined to replace my pump on my 05.5 Jetta automatic, but would block off and tap if it eliminates one more thing that can go bad!


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## Wolfsburg007 (Apr 21, 2011)

deserttaxguy said:


> I dont get how the trans case can move apart very much at all with the axle attached? Thats just one little thing that seems to be glossed over with this method.
> Like some other thread comments mention. We need a DIY for sure for both the pump delete and the trans split.
> 
> Good luck with your project. Please post the details of what you do. I'm inclined to replace my pump on my 05.5 Jetta automatic, but would block off and tap if it eliminates one more thing that can go bad!


I was going to block off. But after adding stuff up pump was cheaper. Lol I planned on siliconing the heck out of it. 

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## rabbitlvr (Oct 8, 2011)

Saw this thread. Said yolo and dived in.:laugh:
My car is an 09 and auto.
I tapped the hole where my secondary air once went by going to home depot and buying a 2$ fitting then to advanced for 6$ of hose and 1$ a mountain dew (i had the clamps needed). 
No check valve just a hose to intake mani to brake booster.
Works just fine for me. About 200 miles since I did this and no leaks to be reported.
Breaks are better than before definitely a noticeable difference.
Power gain is meh.
Hope this helps


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## Wolfsburg007 (Apr 21, 2011)

rabbitlvr said:


> Saw this thread. Said yolo and dived in.:laugh:
> My car is an 09 and auto.
> I tapped the hole where my secondary air once went by going to home depot and buying a 2$ fitting then to advanced for 6$ of hose and 1$ a mountain dew (i had the clamps needed).
> No check valve just a hose to intake mani to brake booster.
> ...


Ok....... What's about the leaking pump? Just re routing the vacuum doesn't fix a leaking pump on the motor. DIY you split the transmission from engine to use a delete plate? 

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## the snake 87 (May 26, 2013)

Wolfsburg007 said:


> Ok....... What's about the leaking pump? Just re routing the vacuum doesn't fix a leaking pump on the motor. DIY you split the transmission from engine to use a delete plate?
> 
> Sent From My 0x1 Note 3.i love tep....


You shouldn't have to drop the tranny. I'm not going to when I do it. Honestly seems so much more of a hassle if you do than it needs to be because once you move the vacuum hoses in the area and battery, the pump is clearly visible. The only issue is it's a little tight, but with the right tools it should be a non issue. I'll be doing a write up when I can (next weekend) but for now I'm actually going to give the blockoff plate and boost tap a shot and see how it works. If I notice something isn't right then I'll throw on the replacement pump I bought. But I have a feeling that the need for the catch can setup to go along with the boost tap is bologna (I love Integrated Engineering, and it could have just been the one person who told me, but everyone else says that makes absolutely no sense.)

I'll keep everyone posted!


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## Wolfsburg007 (Apr 21, 2011)

the snake 87 said:


> You shouldn't have to drop the tranny. I'm not going to when I do it. Honestly seems so much more of a hassle if you do than it needs to be because once you move the vacuum hoses in the area and battery, the pump is clearly visible. The only issue is it's a little tight, but with the right tools it should be a non issue. I'll be doing a write up when I can (next weekend) but for now I'm actually going to give the blockoff plate and boost tap a shot and see how it works. If I notice something isn't right then I'll throw on the replacement pump I bought. But I have a feeling that the need for the catch can setup to go along with the boost tap is bologna (I love Integrated Engineering, and it could have just been the one person who told me, but everyone else says that makes absolutely no sense.)
> 
> I'll keep everyone posted!


ya but removing the battery and the hoses. can you actually get the whole pump out?


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

i hadnt read the thread... cool, i guess if my pump ever goes (or when it does) i'll just cap it off and get the plate, then tap onto the manifold. Due to boost, i'd have to get a check valve... but no biggy


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## the snake 87 (May 26, 2013)

Wolfsburg007 said:


> ya but removing the battery and the hoses. can you actually get the whole pump out?


You should be able to, and if anything you should be able to reach the bottom bolt from under the car if you take the skid cover off too. It's not that large of a part, so I don't see why it's such a huge process. We'll see when I do it though lol

And thanks to input from another user here, you do in fact need a catch can if you do a vacuum pump delete on the stock intake manifold. Here is what f5racing said (who is doing the mid priced N/A build here)



> If the factory PCV system is intact it will allow oil back into the intake manifold, and this could flow back into the brake booster. Also, if you use the boost tap, you will have to draw the oil vapor out through a catch can since you have taken the PCV system apart to add the boost tap (as far as I can see). Mine was pretty straight forward since I have no PCV system and no SAI system, but I am running a catch can.


So, since I don't anticipate doing a catch can setup anytime soon, I'm going to just replace the pump for the time being and silicone the hell out of it lol. Maybe by the middle of the summer I'll have the money for it, but right now, since I already have a replacement pump, I may as well use it and fix the old one to sell.

Plus, my focus is on my custom intake I'll be fabricating. Stay tuned for that and the vacuum pump DIY!


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## Wolfsburg007 (Apr 21, 2011)

the snake 87 said:


> You should be able to, and if anything you should be able to reach the bottom bolt from under the car if you take the skid cover off too. It's not that large of a part, so I don't see why it's such a huge process. We'll see when I do it though lol
> 
> And thanks to input from another user here, you do in fact need a catch can if you do a vacuum pump delete on the stock intake manifold. Here is what f5racing said (who is doing the mid priced N/A build here)
> 
> ...


So my buddy just called me he did it for a song. Works on audi and vw for a living. The cheap way took him 4 hrs. First he did. Said it was a bitch. Both inner and cover gasket was leaking. So including pump. And new oil I spent 380 to have done parts and labor. 

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## 5.0birdie (Jul 30, 2004)

So, did anybody in this thread actually delete the pump, and if so, do you have a picture of where you picked up vacuum?

Thanks, guys!


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## Wolfsburg007 (Apr 21, 2011)

Integrated engineering sells the kit with instructions and a manifold tap. For me was cheaper to just replace it. 

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## Tombien (Sep 14, 2012)

5.0birdie said:


> So, did anybody in this thread actually delete the pump, and if so, do you have a picture of where you picked up vacuum?
> 
> Thanks, guys!


I've completely removed my pump and capped off using the I.E. plate. Ran my vacuum line to my I.E. manifold using a 3/8's hose barb and about 2 feet of hose. OEM manifold would have to be tapped or something else done for the vacuum.


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## Wolfsburg007 (Apr 21, 2011)

Tombien said:


> I've completely removed my pump and capped off using the I.E. plate. Ran my vacuum line to my I.E. manifold using a 3/8's hose barb and about 2 feet of hose. OEM manifold would have to be tapped or something else done for the vacuum.


No catch can? I have heard conflicting things about one being required. 

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## Tombien (Sep 14, 2012)

Wolfsburg007 said:


> No catch can? I have heard conflicting things about one being required.
> 
> Sent from my 0x1 Note 3...... I love tep


I do have a catch can but it doesn't use vacuum from the pump. Only my brakes. 

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk


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## vbora01 (Nov 17, 2009)

5.0birdie said:


> So, did anybody in this thread actually delete the pump, and if so, do you have a picture of where you picked up vacuum?
> 
> Thanks, guys!


Yes! I did this on my mom's Jetta after the weeping oil became leaking oil from the vacuum pump. Told my dad it was either $300 to replace the pump with the new revised part or buy the block off plate for $65 and the cost of vacuum line and tees. Went with the latter decision and couldn't be happier with the results. On the left hand side of the intake manifold, right below the cylinder 1 runner, there is a large vacuum port that is for the PCV or EVAP system. Using a larger vacuum line and tee at that location, and an adapter for the actual booster line to the vacuum line, I ran it along the fuel rail and zip tied it to some other vacuum line in the area. All in all, it was a simple fix and have had no issues with brakes at all. The brakes are a little stiffer since they are not as assisted, but ABS and ESP work fine and stopping is spot on.

This repair is a no brainer. There is no reason you should go through the trouble of removing the transmission or undoing TC bolts in order to gain clearance to get the pump out. My logic behind justifying this is that the 2.0t does NOT have a mechanically operated vacuum pump, and uses the same booster as the 2.5, so there shouldn't be any harm in this.


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## the snake 87 (May 26, 2013)

vbora01 said:


> Yes! I did this on my mom's Jetta after the weeping oil became leaking oil from the vacuum pump. Told my dad it was either $300 to replace the pump with the new revised part or buy the block off plate for $65 and the cost of vacuum line and tees. Went with the latter decision and couldn't be happier with the results. On the left hand side of the intake manifold, right below the cylinder 1 runner, there is a large vacuum port that is for the PCV or EVAP system. Using a larger vacuum line and tee at that location, and an adapter for the actual booster line to the vacuum line, I ran it along the fuel rail and zip tied it to some other vacuum line in the area. All in all, it was a simple fix and have had no issues with brakes at all. The brakes are a little stiffer since they are not as assisted, but ABS and ESP work fine and stopping is spot on.
> 
> This repair is a no brainer. There is no reason you should go through the trouble of removing the transmission or undoing TC bolts in order to gain clearance to get the pump out. My logic behind justifying this is that the 2.0t does NOT have a mechanically operated vacuum pump, and uses the same booster as the 2.5, so there shouldn't be any harm in this.


I made my DIY to show fixing the leak could be done without replacing the whole pump, and without loosening the trans.

Yet, this is incredibly interesting. Any pics/dimensions of the tees and adapters you used? I'm debating on doing this now.


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## vbora01 (Nov 17, 2009)

I'm actually really surprised at the lack of information on this modification for the 2.5. I'll get some pictures in the AM!


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## the snake 87 (May 26, 2013)

vbora01 said:


> I'm actually really surprised at the lack of information on this modification for the 2.5. I'll get some pictures in the AM!


Yeah I was disappointed as well when it came to the intial repair which is why I did mine. I would love to see more come!


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## halbwissen (Jul 20, 2001)

Couldn't we [MK6 2.5l owners] just use this for vacuum and bypass the fancy IE adapter?

My only concern is the nipple's I.D. will be too small in diameter.
Not sure if that matters for brake booster vacuum.


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