# Official ABA 16V stroker engine thread



## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

I know that a few of us are doing the ABA 16V with diesel crank.
ACOW, & Mr Whalen are some...

Lets get things started.

I will post more tech details on my set up soon, but just wanted to post this up for now.

The Beast:


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## MikkiJayne (Jan 1, 2007)

*FV-QR*

That looks like it will be a lot of fun  :thumbup:


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## antichristonwheels (Jun 14, 2001)

I am running one in my Rabbit truck. Very similar looking to yours:

84mm JE 11:1
Collin head with the bigger intake valves, 276 schricks
Weber 45s

I strongly advise you to go ahead and fab up a breather setup and puke tank for the valve cover and another for the crankcase.


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

My set up:
ABA block OBD1
Tdi crank machined / lightened to the about the same weight of a 2.0L gas
84.00 Wossner ABF pistons 12.5 CR machined to clear squish band (see above pic on lathe...)
(final compression ratio is now 14.5:1 Running on VP C12 only) 
TT big vavle kit with springs & ti retainers
Mk5 light weight hydraulic lifters
Schrick 276-276 cams
central coolant port blocked off on head; only running the side port
Setrab oil cooler with Volvo thermo sandwich plate
Distributor delete
Running megajolt ignition with MAP for load : 3D programmable
EDIS 4 coil packs
TT race headers fully wrapped
3 Row aluminum Honda radiator
228 mm stage 5 clutch with 7 lbs chromoly flywheel
Clutch cable set-up with Eurovan actuator
Quaife 6 speed dog box with 4.17 F.D.
Real VWMS clutch type LSD
running with dual DCOE 45's : at the limit of the 45's 

last year at the dyno, before any tuning, and when it was at 12.5:1 CR
216 WHP
178 Tq
I'm at the 4:02 mark


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## Bubble Block (Sep 19, 2009)

I have been debating what motor set up I want to build over the next year or so for the S1. This seems like a very good option. I'd like to know a little more. :thumbup:


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

I will be posting more deatils on the intricacies related to this recipe...
probably during the week end, with a tasty beverage next to my keyboard


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## leon whalen (May 28, 2007)

a stroker thread.... great idea fredy

i will try and get some pics up of mine, here are the specs.

aba16v
95.5 crank lightened & balanced
9a pistons
full port/polish head multi angle valve job
276° schrick cams
hd valve springs
bbm fuel rail
t.t. lightweight adj. cam gear
aba ecu with t.t. aba16v chip
raceland 4-2-1 header
magnaflow highflow cat
t.t. 2.25 exhaust
4k trans with .71 5th gear ( i need an lsd)


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## leon whalen (May 28, 2007)

old motor shot before new head








my daughter getting ready to run it down the strip


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## JuniorWhalen (May 15, 2008)

Bubble Block said:


> I have been debating what motor set up I want to build over the next year or so for the S1. This seems like a very good option. I'd like to know a little more. :thumbup:


An S1 deserves an audi 5 cylinder 20v turbo


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

When I was doing this engine last year, I tried getting information in the "monster useless sticky" for the ABA 16V thread...

Be serious, a sticky with hundeds of pages ? I took about 4 hours, trying to see if there was any pertinent information for what I was doing; The thread does have good information, but its worst than finding a needle in a haystack.

So my point to this thread, is to give as much information about having an ABA / 16V (ABF clone) with a 95.5 stroker TDI crankshaft.

There are many ways to skin this cat when it comes to pistons, which is the part that stands out , in this kind of engine.

I remember reading on a few alternatives, but I will put forward what I did:

First, the crank has to be machined to clear the squirters , (I put a ABA OBD1 with oil squirters) and also , making an engine like that, is usually for performance purposes, so light weight is a big factor. So I had the counterweights machined to clear the block, and asked for the crank to be lightened, even more than a gas crankshaft.

I decided to use the ABA OBD1 connecting rods, had them re-bored, because I put ARP hardware, and I wanted to have the con rod bearings to the best possible tolerancing.I also balanced the rods.
The balancing is not hard to do, check this video out :









---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Now that the rods have been taken care of, the pistons (the angular stone of the build) need to be looked at:
Since I got some Schrick 276's my main concern was piston to valve clearance.
I also wanted to have a high compression engine. at fist I wanted about 12.5:1 static.
but going to a dynamic compression ratio made more sense:
The dynamic compression ratio, takes in account the overlap of the intake valve, after top dead center. So basically, its to adjust the compression, with your cams.

I ordered Wossner 84.00mm ABF pistons with 12.5:1 compression
With the stroker crank, these were a lot over deck, but it was OK: I wanted to play with the head gasket thikness, and I could also turn the pistons down on my lathe, with the 4 jaw chuck (which I did)
I made the calculations with the CC's of the head (that did change from stock because of the oversized valves) and piston overdeck CC's in order to obtain the needed head gasket thickness. I delaminated ABA gaskets, and mixed, and matched the layers to obtain the desired thickness. If I remember correctly, I had about 0.106" at that time.

I put plasticine on top of the piston, and assembled the head on the block, with the timing belt.

Rotated the crank slowly, in order to measure valve clearance.

Problems encountered: 
the 45 degree of the Wossner pistons, would hit the outside part of the squish band on the head, and the ABA gaskets were real close too.

So I machined the 45 degree taper by about 0.047", and I also opened up the head gasket layers, with a small flapwheel, one by one, and thouroughly cleaned them afterwards.

I also doweled the block to the head & head gasket layers, using custom machined dowels.
The reason in the back of this, was to locate the gaskets diameters within a few thousands of an inch, because of the tolerance between the 84mm pistons and the head gasket.

I will try to find my notes, for my CC calculations, and dynamic compression numbers.

OK, enough typing, I will come back soon with more.

Cheers!
Fred


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## antichristonwheels (Jun 14, 2001)

My machinist sunk squirters 1-3 higher into the block as #4 is. This took care of the clearance.

Remember hydro lifters will be pumped up a bit when running thus giving you slightly less piston to valve clearance than you will measure in a mockup.


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

antichristonwheels said:


> Remember hydro lifters will be pumped up a bit when running thus giving you slightly less piston to valve clearance than you will measure in a mockup.


I already ran this engine for a full season on the track, I'm just sharing my findings, and it will take quite a few posts, for me to render the full story, and ongoing upgrades of my engine... 

And I would prefer taking of material off the crank in order to reduce inertia, then sinking in the squirters...


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

:thumbup:opcorn:


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## Bubble Block (Sep 19, 2009)

leon whalen said:


> my daughter getting ready to run it down the strip


Nice! what type of numbers are you seeing at the wheels? and what did she run down the track??


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## Bubble Block (Sep 19, 2009)

fredybender said:


> My set up:
> ABA block OBD1
> Tdi crank machined / lightened to the about the same weight of a 2.0L gas
> 84.00 Wossner ABF pistons 12.5 CR machined to clear squish band (see above pic on lathe...)
> ...


Fred This is pretty much the goal I would like to reach. I am looking to have a N/A between 170whp and 200whp if I can manage to get slightly more out of it I will be happy but I am not looking for anything extreme. I don't really want to run forced induction. I am looking to build a motor over the next year and probably be done (ready to drop it in the S1) some time around May 2013. Clearly you have "been there done that" & judging by this thread I am assuming you don't mind taking the time to explain things most people forget to mention. Would you mind if I pick your brain from time to time & give recommendations on what to use and what to stay away from?

Great build by the way! :beer:


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## leon whalen (May 28, 2007)

Bubble Block; said:


> Nice! what type of numbers are you seeing at the wheels? and what did she run down the track??


she ran the car into the 15's before the schrick cams went in.
[email protected] is cars best (without an LSD, traction is a real issue)
car has never been on a dyno but i am very pleased with its performance


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Bubble Block said:


> Fred This is pretty much the goal I would like to reach. I am looking to have a N/A between 170whp and 200whp if I can manage to get slightly more out of it I will be happy but I am not looking for anything extreme. I don't really want to run forced induction. I am looking to build a motor over the next year and probably be done (ready to drop it in the S1) some time around May 2013. Clearly you have "been there done that" & judging by this thread I am assuming you don't mind taking the time to explain things most people forget to mention. Would you mind if I pick your brain from time to time & give recommendations on what to use and what to stay away from?
> 
> Great build by the way! :beer:


 Thanks for the kudos! 
to get 200 WHP out of a NA 16V is somewhat of a challenge, and is also a wallet squeezer... 
170WHP is not that hard to do. 

The difference, is getting any of the HP's above 170 or so, not logical, considering the efforts and $ needed 

I will try to eventually put as much information in here, to help out. 

But then again, I think I rather get one on one communication, for the peeps that have the flame, and have the commitment to do such an illogical decision  

Hit me up anytime BB


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## 71camaro (Apr 20, 2009)

Hey, I'm interested in getting some info here. I've got a 16v g60 setup using a 1.8l block, and I want to go to a 2.0/2.1L setup in the car, while staying at 10:1. If I were to do this, would I still use stock bore and just use the increased stroke to gain the displacement? And what CR piston would I run to get around 10:1? I'm planning on running a fairly large twin screw and feel the added displacement will be a huge help.


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

Need to check up on a few notes, but 
95.5 crank
ABA block & rods (OBD1 preferably for boost app)
Pistons : I would probably go with stock ABF pistons and double up on the head gasket:
The head gasket is 0.063" and the added stoke gives 0.053" higher protrusion in the head...
The stock C/R is 10.4, so with 0.009" more thickness, you would be close to 10 anyways.

I would definitely suggest you verify combustion chamber cc's, and piston interference with plasticine, during the build.

HTH
Fred


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## 71camaro (Apr 20, 2009)

fredybender said:


> Need to check up on a few notes, but
> 95.5 crank
> ABA block & rods (OBD1 preferably for boost app)
> Pistons : I would probably go with stock ABF pistons and double up on the head gasket:
> ...


I want at least 9:1 but want more. It seems like a lot of people are scared of boost and higher compression, I am not. Tuning makes it work if done correctly. I was thinking the ABF pistons would be close, and yeah, some playdoh during the build to check clearances would be smart. Thanks :thumbup: I'll update as I move forward.

Also, does anyone know of a source for forged ABF pistons rather than cast? Thanks


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## 71camaro (Apr 20, 2009)

http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/1755/BBM_Forged_Piston_Set_2_0L_ABA_83mm_Bore_Std_CR

I assume with the added stroke, these would end up at approximately 9:1?


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

you'll end probably with around 10:1 with stock abf's with 2 ABA HG
this is piston height at TDC with 12.4 CR ABF pistons 84mm with ABA bloc & rods with 95.5mm crank:


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## 71camaro (Apr 20, 2009)

Anyone here know if the ABA trigger wheel, or another one perhaps, will work on the 1.9 crank? I'm trying to run coilpacks, and do away with the distributor


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## antichristonwheels (Jun 14, 2001)

you could do it but drilling the crank to bolt on the wheel might be a pita

I used an 034EFI 16V 60-2 trigger wheel and sensor, firing an Electromotive ignition.

the 034 stuff is really nice and it bolts on.


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

I STRONGLY suggest you look at a Megajolt ignition:
Real 3D programmable, and uses EDIS 4 module, & coil pack, and trigger wheel...
Cheap, good reliable, programmable.
I have heard horror stories on 034 with older stuff. Not a bad outfit, but 034 is made for the newer stuff IMHO...

36-1 wheel is easily adaptable to crank pulley, no retrofit needed for a "stock" VW trigger wheel.


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## 71camaro (Apr 20, 2009)

antichristonwheels said:


> you could do it but drilling the crank to bolt on the wheel might be a pita
> 
> I used an 034EFI 16V 60-2 trigger wheel and sensor, firing an Electromotive ignition.
> 
> the 034 stuff is really nice and it bolts on.


I may attempt it (have a machine shop available). I'm trying to keep everything as hidden as possible, bay is extremely shaved, and I'm trying hard to keep everything hidden


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

fredybender said:


> I know that a few of us are doing the ABA 16V with diesel crank.
> ACOW, & Mr Whalen are some...
> 
> Lets get things started.
> ...



What plug wires did you use for that EDIS pack to fit in the 16v?


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## leon whalen (May 28, 2007)

71camaro said:


> Anyone here know if the ABA trigger wheel, or another one perhaps, will work on the 1.9 crank? I'm trying to run coilpacks, and do away with the distributor


the ABA trigger wheel is a direct fit. i have one on my tdi crank. it can also be used with most stand alone systems.


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

SirSpectre said:


> What plug wires did you use for that EDIS pack to fit in the 16v?


I bought the ford Escort wires and, took the 16V ends out of a set I had.
Just made a set myself...
Just got to be carefull: Lucky my Coilpacks are close enough, but I'm at the limit of length for cyl. #1


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

fredybender said:


> I bought the ford Escort wires and, took the 16V ends out of a set I had.
> Just made a set myself...
> Just got to be carefull: Lucky my Coilpacks are close enough, but I'm at the limit of length for cyl. #1


Ah bummer. I am going to do the same, was hoping someone made some, or found a set from Ford that matched nicely.


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*FV-QR*

why bother with the EDIS stuff when you can use the factory 60-2 stuff.


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

bonesaw said:


> why bother with the EDIS stuff when you can use the factory 60-2 stuff.


Thats what I'm using. I use the 60-2 wheel, but use the coil pack for spark. MS drives the pack directly. I just need the plug wires.


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*FV-QR*

i see. why not use bosch motorsports coil? use stock 16v wires. Can MS fire a high current coil directly?


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

bonesaw said:


> i see. why not use bosch motorsports coil? use stock 16v wires. Can MS fire a high current coil directly?


It can. Which coil did you have in mind? I'd hate to have to rewire the drivers and power for a different type of coil. Changing the pigtail would be easy though.


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*FV-QR*

Bosch Motorsports 2x2 Coil.


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

Easy to install, higher resistance, lower voltage than what i got. Longer spark duration though. Maybe worth a look


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## TREKSportMK3 (Feb 1, 2009)

i guess since it's still a stroker setup, im thinking of going suercharged for about 300hp/whp for street fun car as my project car. i was thinking of a 1.8t engine arranged for a supercharger setup as they seem to flow better than the 16v at lower rpms, and with a supercharger youre not looking to rev as high, but then after looking at this thread, this would work out about the same and still be a lot cheaper. so i would use the 16v head straight on the aba bottom which gives 8.5:1 compression, with a tdi crank where would the compression be? if i did doubled headgaskets or a headspacer would the crank make up the difference to still get ~9:1 compression. i know tuning and high compression is ok with boost, but as a street setup id rather be a lil safer with the compression just wondering on the insight


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

TREKSportMK3 said:


> i guess since it's still a stroker setup, im thinking of going suercharged for about 300hp/whp for street fun car as my project car. i was thinking of a 1.8t engine arranged for a supercharger setup as they seem to flow better than the 16v at lower rpms, and with a supercharger youre not looking to rev as high, but then after looking at this thread, this would work out about the same and still be a lot cheaper. so i would use the 16v head straight on the aba bottom which gives 8.5:1 compression, with a tdi crank where would the compression be? if i did doubled headgaskets or a headspacer would the crank make up the difference to still get ~9:1 compression. i know tuning and high compression is ok with boost, but as a street setup id rather be a lil safer with the compression just wondering on the insight


Mix & match your components with the proper dimensionning for each components here:
http://www.not2fast.com/vw/stuff/vw_engines.shtml

You have to CC your heads, and your choice of pistons with proper deck height IMHO:
Its not a "slap on" thing.
After you have the right information for gasket thickness taking in consideration volume, and targeted C/R, then delaminate anABA gasket to obtain necessary clearance & C/R.


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## TREKSportMK3 (Feb 1, 2009)

fredybender said:


> Mix & match your components with the proper dimensionning for each components here:
> http://www.not2fast.com/vw/stuff/vw_engines.shtml
> 
> You have to CC your heads, and your choice of pistons with proper deck height IMHO:
> ...


i had to look back at your setup to make sure, but you used the 144 ros and had the pistons machined to clear the deck, i figure the aba pistons machined plus being that high would definately need valve reliefs (supposedly with a 16v thrown on the aba you most of the time dont need the reliefs) so that would lower compression as well, i think youre right tho, there are too many variables as you have big valves an you've cc'ed a lot of stuff, i think it might be easier to use the 136 rods with the 9a pitsons, as a low compression setup a o of the high performance variables change as youre are made with every little move you make to free 1hp at a time if necessary, mine is much less precise as the blower will give most of the performance. dont get me wrong tho, i respect your build and i love the mk1 rocco too

*edit: for some reason i was thinking the 9a rods werent 144, but 9a pistons do have a higher compression in an aba/16v, with a 92.8mm crank you have
aba rods, abf pistons 10:1 compression
aba rods, 9a pistons 9.0:1 compression
aba rods, aba pistons 8.5:1 comression

im almost certain youd have to use 136 rods to shorten the stroke to get you below the deck and also reach the right compression as the 144 would only work for you NA guys unless some serious porting was done to the pistons to lower compression down enough for safe boost on 93 octane


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

I would strongly recommend using the ABA rods:
The rod to stroke ratio, is below minimum IMO in a 9A; throw in a stroker crank, and its just bad engineering: The weak link are the G's produced by the rods, reduce the rod length, and you increase the G's exponentially. Remember a rod usually handles close to 2000 G's.

The only reason I machined my pistons is to clear the squish band, not the deck height, and I used ABF 13.5:1 C/R pistons from Wossner at 84mm.

Hope these infos help out in your decisions.


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## TREKSportMK3 (Feb 1, 2009)

alright, an if you were to just build an aba 16v dd, not for performance, would it be easier/cheaper to get a set of abf pistons to throw in, or get a 95.5 tdi crank and 9a pistons with the aaba rods, will have to do some machining, but considering abf pistons are around 500 anyway maybe it would be cheaper to stroke it and maybe even get a slight bump in performance


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## vwmk1gti (Apr 29, 2003)

I was looking into building a aba stroker 16v and running it on motronic. Changing over the crank pick up wheel looks straight forward. The tdi crank has a oil pump drive gear which I pressed off. I'm not sure what crank sprocket to run. The tdi crank has a flat on the end to locate the sprocket and the 16v sprocket has a notch to locate it. Also the tdi crank nose sticks out about 1/2" farther than the aba crank nose. I was thinking that a machine shop could modify the crank nose on the tdi by shortening it and machining a flat to run the tdi sprocket. It looks about the same width as a 16v sprocket. I hope that made some sense  Just curious what other did to get around this problem.


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## logjammin' (Jan 10, 2010)

vwmk1gti said:


> curious what other did to get around this problem.


 I brought an ABA crank and the tdi crank to the shop and said make it happen! Don't forget to let them know how important it is to orient the keyway correctly. Charged me $80


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## MKVmyfast (Sep 16, 2008)

I'm in the process of doing this exact same build. Only had enough time to read a few post but posting so I can read the rest later and hopefully get some really useful info 

Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk 2


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## 16valvulasturbo (Dec 1, 2012)

i have read this and i like it.
i want to build a 16v turbo over this winter.
i have 2 complete 9a engines laying around.
a complete mk3 TDI shortblock. and i can get an aba for cheap or free.

i want 200 or so HP out of this because ovr that you need a bigger budget. it is going to be a family hauler/weekend warrior in the summer.

i already have a 50 mm intake; a header for the time being later that will give way to a turbo exhaust; modified exhaust camshaft to be used as a intake cam. i also have a chipped ecu for motronic.

i have a CNC machine shop at my disposal ; so not too much trouble to have things made.

from a conservative HP side of view and also money wise conservatively;

i gather this combo is the most cost effective??

aba shortblock; aba rods; 16v piston heads and TDI crank with some work done to the front snout.
the piston heads might need machining to clear the valves or to set the CR at the desired number?

i understand the rods have to be rubushed to fit the 16v piston heads.


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## RILEY UK (Nov 27, 2004)

Hi all,

Am I right in assuming that your ABA over there in the states is the equiv to the ABF here in the UK? 236mm block?

I'm looking to build a 2.1 using an ABF bottom end and a 95.5mm crank with 84mm pistons. I'm all good for the crank sourcing (Will be lightened/Balanced as a whole)

But I'm struggling on piston choice...Is there a forged piston out there that will match up to the 159mm rods and also be good for a C/R of around 11.5:1/12:1? I can only find listings for the 92.8mm crank?

I know there are other factors such as head gasket thickness, valve lift etc...But if there's something out there to get me close then please point me in the right direction.

Induction will be via weber 45 carbs with standalone management. Just a case of bringing the parts together to work with each other.


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## LamaMk1 (Apr 7, 2009)

*That belt pulley problem*

Guys, what did you do to belt pulley from 16v to fit on that crank? 

I got: abf engine, AFN crank, ross pistons, 20/159 rods, and want to get compounded with Holsets. 
Well, that belt pulley is a bit of problem, could you give any advice on how to do it right?


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

RILEY UK said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Am I right in assuming that your ABA over there in the states is the equiv to the ABF here in the UK? 236mm block?
> 
> ...


Long thread...
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...sister-for-Euclid&highlight=sister+for+euclid


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## SR Heer (Jul 20, 2008)

Thanks for info shared on this thread - I am planing on a ABA(F) stroker build motor for Mk1 or Mk2 -
I have a few questions - are the Mk2 AFN type boxes strong enough to handle stoker torque? and what about
the Mk1 FF or FN boxes - the AFN makes sense to me in that the first 4 gears are closer ratioed compaired to FF yet 
then they have a tall 5th gear - 

also I can choose between a 1.8/16V head or a 2.0/16V head - and I have heard that stoker motors help with the venturi effect
if one uses carbs like Weber or Dellorto - now my question is this with the intake valve being larger in the 2.0 16V head
compared to the 1.8 16V head would not that make it a better option if using carbs or would the smaller intake and larger exhaust valves of
1.8 16V make better use or sense when using carbs? I plan on using exhaust headers for the 16V head.

I was wondering how fenderfreddy felt about his Webers because I also can use an injector set up for this storker - have the ABA fuel sysetem 
but do not know if that would be adequate - Fredy what kind of fuel milage does your S1 stoker get? And how much would a fuel injection system possibly net
me? I will be using this as a daily driver so I want to be able to use premium unleaded fuel which leads me to think I probably will need the ABF pistons in ABA block and 1.9 TD or 1.9 TDI crank ( which is better to have to work with an AHU or ALH crank? ) as well as either 1.8/16V or 2.0/16V head - for a CR that would be 1/10 or 1/11 which would work for daily drivning 

And my last question is how much of a difference does adding the stroker to ABA(F) motor make for daily as far as being a fun ride zipping in and out of in town traffic and going freeway speeds?
Thanks!


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## fredybender (Nov 18, 2008)

SR Heer said:


> Thanks for info shared on this thread - I am planing on a ABA(F) stroker build motor for Mk1 or Mk2 -
> I have a few questions - are the Mk2 AFN type boxes strong enough to handle stoker torque? and what about
> the Mk1 FF or FN boxes - the AFN makes sense to me in that the first 4 gears are closer ratioed compaired to FF yet
> then they have a tall 5th gear -
> ...


*
Torque is the main factor; I have oversized valves and cams, etc... I got 178 ft / lbs of torque *


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## SR Heer (Jul 20, 2008)

My questioning concerning carbs was such that I was trying to get a feel for which might be best carbs or fuel injection to use on a daily driver for in town on highway?


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## soon2bGTI (Oct 22, 2003)

anyone else do this yet? im gathering parts to do this.
im using
aba obd 1 block
aba obd1 rods
tdi crank
still figuring out pistons but hoping my 11:1 83.5mm 16v wiseco pistons will get me to 12:1
ARP hardware
1.8 16v head
268/276 TT cams
adjustable cam gear 
heavy duty TT valve springs
light weight lifters
+.5mm intake and exhaust valves
head does have some porting but not a ton
50mm intake
TT 4 to 1 16v race header
all run on MS2

anything you guys would change or add?


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

soon2bGTI said:


> anyone else do this yet? im gathering parts to do this.
> im using
> aba obd 1 block
> aba obd1 rods
> ...


50mm intake? You mean just the Throttle Body? If so, id change that to a good short runner with a mustang throttle body. Personally, Id also go with MS3x just for the vast improvement in features you can use, like sequential injection and spark, coil on plug fully supported, map switching, etc.


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## soon2bGTI (Oct 22, 2003)

SirSpectre said:


> 50mm intake? You mean just the Throttle Body? If so, id change that to a good short runner with a mustang throttle body. Personally, Id also go with MS3x just for the vast improvement in features you can use, like sequential injection and spark, coil on plug fully supported, map switching, etc.


no I mean like the stock intake has 42mm runners (rocco's have 40mm) mine has 50mm intake runners. (I thought the abf had 50mm but ive also heard they were 52-53mm) yes id also like to run ms3x but I already have ms2 on the car now so im going to continue using that. I have an auto Passat T/B so I can use the TPS and it has been ported. maybe in the future I can get a set of itbs. I see OBX now makes a set.


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## 92_MK_2 (Oct 11, 2010)

opcorn:


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## pearlblackvr6 (May 28, 2010)

May be a stupid question but what do you guys do with the aba distributor when running a 16v head with that distributor. Is the aba distributor cut down or taken out replaced with something??


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

Take a look in the aba 16v stickie at top of this thread. Need to swap in 16v intermediate shaft and drive gear and oil pump. I think it is from a 2.0 16v. I'd confirm in the sticky


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