# MK1 Rear drum overhaul, help needed



## 2mAn (Oct 15, 2006)

In the last few months my driverside rear drum has been slowly leaking brake fluid so i decided it was time to do an overhaul, especially when the e-brake cable also busted.








Got all new parts ie drums, shoes, cables and all the hardware. I didnt get new wheel cylinders, but i may need them This is where i need your help. This is my first time overhauling drums, I've only dealt with discs before. I admit I was a little intimidated, but with my bentley at my side i jumped in and got started.
Heres a pic of the dirty old shoes with the drum already removed








A friend warned me to paint the drums before I installed them because they would get nice and rusty like the old ones were so I used some silver high temp paint I had sitting around.








I masked off the inner area where the bearings where going to sit. I didnt mask the lug holes, probably should have. We'll find out soon if that will cause any problems, but I didnt put too many coats on so I doubt I'll have an issue.








Mocked up the new parts so I wouldn't have any surprises and just so I knew i had all the parts I would need ready to go.



_Modified by 2mAn at 2:20 PM 12-27-2009_


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

*Re: MK1 Rear drum overhaul, help needed (2mAn)*

Do only one side at a time so you'll have "model" to put things back on correctly...the self adjuster and bar are a bit tricky....I always just took the hold downs off (those round things on each shoe in the middle..you grab with a pair of pliers on the top washer and twist it 1/4 turn to unlock em...) then just used a big screwdriver to pry the bottom tip of shoe out enuff to release spring tension..you can also try and grab a spring with vice grips and release it that way..but pryin is ezer for us weaklings.. Replace wheel cylinders for sure!....those brakes look old as sin and its not worth trying to rebuild such old parts..bores are probably toast anyway...make sure you put a dab of "synthetic caliper grease" or other Hi Temp grease like Lubriplate on the areas of the backing plate where shoes rub..if you dont brakes will squeal like a stuck pig...my MKIII came from factory with dry points here and I had to take it in to have dealer lube these points...PITA to take brakes off again to do this so get some grease now..


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

*Re: MK1 Rear drum overhaul, help needed (2mAn)*

You say you're overhauling the rear drum brakes because they're leaking, BUT you didn't bother to buy the wheel cylinders (where the leak has to be coming from)?
How can you call that an overhaul, and why bother with the cosmetics, when the brakes are still going to leak (and not work correctly) when you're done reassemblying without correcting/replacing the parts that are leaking?


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## 2mAn (Oct 15, 2006)

*Re: MK1 Rear drum overhaul, help needed (germancarnut51)*

i was told that just the shoes needed replacing and to do the drums at the same time. once i popped the drum off, i pretty much knew that the wheel cylinders should also be replaced, but that same person said if the wheel cylinders cover or something looked good to not worry. i plan on replacing them now as well thanks to your constructive criticism http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
edit: just ordered new wheel cylinders for both sides and also some ate dot 4 brake fluid


_Modified by 2mAn at 11:23 AM 12-21-2009_


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## Mainiac (Nov 22, 2006)

*Re: MK1 Rear drum overhaul, help needed (2mAn)*

I just did the job that you are working on, and it was my first time also.... I used the Bently manual, and got it done.... I am very pleased w/ the results, and the brakes have never worked as good as they do now. 
Did you buy new bearings (inner and outer) and races for the new drums ? 
I was trying to figure out how to "pound" in the inner race, without damaging anything, and, after looking around the garage, I found that using a 1 7/8" trailer hitch ball, happened to work perfectly for seating the inner race.... just place the trailer ball over the race, and hit it with a rubber mallet, until it seats into the drum. I used a large socket for the outer race. There is also a grease seal that goes onto the back of the drum, on top of the inner race. (if you have a Bently, you will see a diagram of these bearings, races, and rear seal. 
The adjustment wedge also stumped me for a while.... but, now that I understand how it works, (it will move downwards, after some wear to the brake shoes ).... I just put it in, and hooked up the spring. (like the Bently says)
and yes.... if you have a leak, it is most likely coming from the wheel cylinder. While I was installing the shoes, my wheel cylinder came apart.... I just put the pieces back in the cylinder and looked for leaks.... had no leaks... so I was good to go....BUT, when the cylinder came apart, brake fluid came out.... and air got into the system...... SO, I had to bleed that brake. (Right Rear). You can get a "one man bleeder tool", very cheap, at just about any auto parts place.... and it worked well (and easy) for me. 
If I can help, I will try..... I'll check this post later.... 
Greg


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## Mainiac (Nov 22, 2006)

*Re: MK1 Rear drum overhaul, help needed (Mainiac)*

.... one more thing.... now that I looked more closely at your photos', I see that you did buy bearings..... but, I don't see a new "Brake Hardware Kit"... (which is a new set of springs ).... I found the kit at an AutoZone, for less than $10. Probably a good idea to put all new springs in the brakes.


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## 2mAn (Oct 15, 2006)

*Re: MK1 Rear drum overhaul, help needed (Mainiac)*

yea i got new bearings and all the springs too, thanks for the tips, i appreciate it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 2mAn (Oct 15, 2006)

*Re: MK1 Rear drum overhaul, help needed (2mAn)*

disc brakes are so much easier to work on...








just gotta press the bearings in the new drums and im done http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 2mAn (Oct 15, 2006)

so i am "done" but i already threw all the old crap away and now i realize that the new hardware didnt include the thrust washer!


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## jnesbitt (Dec 24, 2009)

*Re: (2mAn)*

good deal I have the same set up..you have to have the torsion edge set up as high as you can to get the drumbs back on..you did a good job..


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## 2mAn (Oct 15, 2006)

*Re: (jnesbitt)*

thanks, the driver side went on pretty easily, but the pass side was a major PITA, im a lil worried about it. but ive got more important things to deal with now, like getting the engine put back together! 
thanks though








i still think i need to get a washer bcause i dont want to just tighten the nut down right on the bearing


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## jnesbitt (Dec 24, 2009)

*Re: (2mAn)*

Should be able yo use a reg washer as all your doing is making sure the bearing doesnt move..good luck


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

*Re: (jnesbitt)*

No you can't use a regular washer in place of the thrush washer that fits below the axle nut.
1st of all, it's indexed so it wont's spin.
2nd of all, it's hardened, so it won't wear when the bearing presses against it.


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## 2mAn (Oct 15, 2006)

*Re: (germancarnut51)*

im so glad i threw it away, why the hell wouldnt the hardware kit include it







it has everything else!... hopefully i can get one at the dealership otherwise i have to go steal another old one from a junkyard mk1 http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

*Re: (2mAn)*

The thrust washer virtually never wears out. The self-locking axle nut is supposed to be a one-time use safety part. Which is why a new axle nut is included in wheel bearing kits, but not the thrust washer.


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## 2mAn (Oct 15, 2006)

*Re: (germancarnut51)*


_Quote, originally posted by *germancarnut51* »_The thrust washer virtually never wears out. The self-locking axle nut is supposed to be a one-time use safety part. Which is why a new axle nut is included in wheel bearing kits, but not the thrust washer.

thanks for the info http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif i knew i shouldnt have thrown the parts away until i was done


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## 83_VW_rabbit_LS (Feb 16, 2010)

*Re: MK1 Rear drum overhaul, help needed (2mAn)*

Hey all so i'm having some trouble with my rear drums, just did a complete over haul with the cylinders but cant get the drum back on, it wont fit over the pads, i have the cylinder completly compressed as far in as it will go but still cant fit the drum on, with out it gettin stuck halfway over the shoes.... what am i missing??????








83 vw rabbit - looks exactly same as this set up


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

*Re: MK1 Rear drum overhaul, help needed (83_VW_rabbit_LS)*

You should have started your own thread.
The shoes are probably not lined up vertically. New shoes are a very tight fit, and if you don;t have everything lined up perfect, the drums are not going to fit back over the shoes.
First make sure that the shoe clearance wedge is pushed all the way up so it isn't spreading the brake shoes.
Then, hook the drum under the shoes at the bottom, and rotate the drum up and over/onto the shoes at the top. You may have to wiggle/rock the drum top and bottom to get the shoes matched up so they will slide into the drum.


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## 83_VW_rabbit_LS (Feb 16, 2010)

*Re: MK1 Rear drum overhaul, help needed (germancarnut51)*

Great thanks for the help - i'll post a new thread as well


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## erikskates04 (Feb 28, 2010)

How much did it cost you to do this brake job?


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