# My 20AE Air project thread.



## President Lincoln (Jun 27, 2005)

I purchased the Accuair e-level kit and Bagyard Bombers last October and just got around to installing in the last couple weeks.

Here are a few pics, more to come.

I opened one of these when I recieved them and put it back in the box. It looked perfect at the time. Just pulled it out today and opened the 2nd box to my suprise.. 




























I remember seeing this happend to others too. I haven't tried to contact anyone yet. :facepalm:

This is what I have done in the past few weeks.
































































Stay tuned.


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## tomespo (Jul 21, 2008)

Damn dude that sucks, Just sand down that area and get some decent paint and paint them so they wont rust. As for the E level, i've never installed on but i heard they are a little bit of a pain in the ass.


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## OVRWRKD (Jul 1, 2010)

The anodizing on mine flaked after a few months. I would contact someone because it shouldn't be coming off on brand new struts. The e-level sensors aren't super difficult but I haven't done a mkiv install yet, the rear will be the most difficult because it's a beam. I can look at my buddy's mkiv and see what kind of mounting is under there.


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## President Lincoln (Jun 27, 2005)

OVRWRKD said:


> The anodizing on mine flaked after a few months. I would contact someone because it shouldn't be coming off on brand new struts. .


I just sent Andrew and e-mail. I have his number too but I will give him a chance to reply.

Not sure that it matters much anyway. No way I am gonn wait for new ones.

So I have some new pics to post but I left the camera at home. (at work now) I will post up later.

I just need to pull the lines. Been looking at others threads and I think I am gonna go under the car with everything.

Only question I have is, what is the best way to run the red 8 or 6 gage power cable off the battery? Does it even go right up to the battery or only to the dash?


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## OVRWRKD (Jul 1, 2010)

Andrew should be back from Austria this week, so it may take him a little bit to reply, just a heads up if you don't hear back right away. The main constant 12v power wire comes off the battery, you should be able to attach it using a crimp on ring terminal, you can get them a most audio shops. If memory serves correctly there is a fuse panel on top or very near to the battery on mkivs that you can attach it to. There is also a constant 12v, red, for the ecu and then a switched 12v, orange.


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## DoctorDoctor (Oct 18, 2006)

Damn, sorry to hear about the struts. Hope that it all works out in the end :thumbup:


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## OVRWRKD (Jul 1, 2010)

There should be a rubber boot type grommet on the fire wall where the engine harness goes into the car, you can see it by looking up in the drivers footwell. I usually will poke the wire through there, sometimes I will make a hole in it using a screwdriver. Let me know if you need some photos, I've got my whole mkv build documeted and I can get some mkiv air lift photos for a reference.:beer:


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## .:3513 (Feb 12, 2009)

opcorn: and good luck!:thumbup:


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## agenex (Aug 7, 2007)

:thumbup::thumbup: 

I get to enjoy seeing / helping with this install  



I hope they make it right regarding the paint on those bags. For what you paid for them, that is unacceptable...


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## President Lincoln (Jun 27, 2005)

^^ Well plenty of people told me to go Airlift. I guess it's my own fault. 
I did get a response from Andrew at ORT and he is more than willing to get them fixed at no cost to me. I would have to send them back to Austria and then they would fix them and send them back to me. Time. IDK what to do. 

Anyway, I have made a little progress. 























































ic:


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## President Lincoln (Jun 27, 2005)

I have saved diagrams and stuff for over a year trying to be prepared for this moment but I guess when it comes down to "doing work" I am noob still. This is my 1st experience with air. I have never even ridden in a car on air. 

I have the car on jack-stands all the way around. 

Trying to get thru the fire-wall on a 03 GTi is impossible. As far as I can tell there are only two spots that the harness goes through (raintray on both sides) and they are so tight that it's not worth hacking into. 


I have a few questions... 

Do I have to go to the battery with this wire? 









Battery side: 









Or can I just go to under the dash to this? 









^^ this is the one that I thought you could go to. Please LMK. I am getting so close. 

Decided I am running all the lines under the car. Much easier and less hacking. eace:


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## OVRWRKD (Jul 1, 2010)

That's the wire, I usually go all the way out to the battery putting the large 70 amp fuse closer to the power source. Reason being, if it trips you don't have power traveling allthe way throughout the car. You could probably run it off of either location, been a while since I looked into fuse panels for mk4s, as long as there is a constant 12V circuit in there. Just don't run the power wire under the car is all. Good work so far.:thumbup:


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## johnnyR32 (Aug 31, 2004)

looks great man. :thumbup:


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## furr (Jul 3, 2009)

Looking good


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## JDM-JTI (Sep 23, 2004)

i put my battery in the back in the whole process .. and i gutted my whole interior and hid all the wires/lines that way


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## President Lincoln (Jun 27, 2005)

Ok, I got the power wire ran real clean. Thanks to Killimats thread. I used the passenger hole that would be for the hood latch cable on a RH drive. :thumbup: 














































:beer:


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## David802 (Feb 23, 2011)

Your gonna let me ride in it when your done right? 
:beer::beer::beer:


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## LOW36 (Jan 18, 2008)

Let me know if you need any help Lincoln. Glad to see you finally start the install.


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## N3M51R (Apr 14, 2010)

Sweet. :thumbup: 

Sad to see the 20th apart though. :laugh:


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## arethirdytwo (Apr 4, 2007)

I'll trade you for my Switchspeed, way easier setup . BY sucks, that whole company has just made Airlift that much more money. In to see this done.


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## uncle_scott (Oct 12, 2009)

Looks good man! Excited to see you going for air after all of your debate both ways. Looks like it will be a very clean install too. Wouldn't expect anything else from you! :thumbup:


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## clowncar25 (Dec 1, 2007)

Looking good so far! opcorn:


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## 01 (Sep 9, 2009)

:wave:


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## DarkSideGTI (Aug 11, 2001)

arethirdytwo said:


> I'll trade you for my Switchspeed, way easier setup . BY sucks, that whole company has just made Airlift that much more money. In to see this done.


 Bagyard doesn't suck, their distributor does.


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## 01 (Sep 9, 2009)

DarkSideGTI said:


> Bagyard doesn't suck, their distributor does.


 yes and no.... 

i know of this air ride company .... that one of the employees has been waiting months and months for bags... 


BY makes awesome stuff... but its a super slow tedious process and honestly it just doesnt seem worth it... i would hate to own BY products, just for knowing if i had a problem i would be down for extended period of time...not ok in my book


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## DarkSideGTI (Aug 11, 2001)

01 said:


> yes and no....
> 
> i know of this air ride company .... that one of the employees has been waiting months and months for bags...
> 
> ...


The local distributor should have in stock inventory and spare parts in case something needs fixed.


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## President Lincoln (Jun 27, 2005)

*blah blah*



tomespo said:


> Damn dude that sucks, Just sand down that area and get some decent paint and paint them so they wont rust. As for the E level, i've never installed on but i heard they are a little bit of a pain in the ass.


I might paint them, I need to make a decision soon.




DoctorDoctor said:


> Damn, sorry to hear about the struts. Hope that it all works out in the end :thumbup:


:thumbup:



.:3513 said:


> opcorn: and good luck!:thumbup:


:thumbup::thumbup:




agenex said:


> :thumbup::thumbup:
> 
> I get to enjoy seeing / helping with this install
> I hope they make it right regarding the paint on those bags. For what you paid for them, that is unacceptable...


WTF, is going on with my Coupe in your garage 




N3M51R said:


> Sweet. :thumbup:
> 
> Sad to see the 20th apart though. :laugh:


Yeah, pannels out of the rear, seats out, airfilter, pollen filter, battery, spare tire, fenderliners, door sills, are all out of the car ATM. I am sure I am forgetting stuff..

You call that paintless dent removal guy yet? :facepalm:






johnnyR32 said:


> looks great man. :thumbup:





rubAdubDUB01 said:


> Looking good


Thanks guys




JDM-JTI said:


> i put my battery in the back in the whole process .. and i gutted my whole interior and hid all the wires/lines that way


Trying to stay OEM plus here. My car is so clean it like brand new. Not going to gut anything. :laugh:







David802 said:


> Your gonna let me ride in it when your done right?
> :beer::beer::beer:


I am gonn have you testing the e-level, since you are a big guy 



Evil_Panda said:


> Let me know if you need any help Lincoln. Glad to see you finally start the install.


Thanks man, right now I just need to know where to connect the switched power & headlight wire off the e-level ECU. One is orange and one is purple. One is for switched power and the other is for the controller lights to dim.




uncle_scott said:


> Looks good man! Excited to see you going for air after all of your debate both ways. Looks like it will be a very clean install too. Wouldn't expect anything else from you! :thumbup:


This is just the first round too. Once I get it going, I will be changing it up again. I already have newer better ideas for the trunk frame. Ughh. I like the new EXO mounts too... which would mean new tank and re-polish. It just never stops.




bluegrassturbo02 said:


> Looking good so far! opcorn:


Thanks sir!



01 said:


> yes and no....
> 
> i know of this air ride company .... that one of the employees has been waiting months and months for bags...
> 
> ...


I hear that. I have already done the impossible and have the BY's. That being said, I am in the home stretch. :laugh:



DarkSideGTI said:


> The local distributor should have in stock inventory and spare parts in case something needs fixed.


That would just be too easy for everyone.



So, I have some new pics but just haven't loaded them yet. I made and error and cut the USB wire to the controller last weekend. Ordered a new one from Accuair on Monday. I was trimming some wire loom and the black cable was hidin inside, I chopped it.

I'd just like to say that I have had no problems with the distributor (ORT) that I bought all this from. I am trying to decide if I want to return the BY bomber fronts and get the Airlift slam XL's plus some $$ back. That was the offer I have been given. Thoughts? 

opcorn:


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## arethirdytwo (Apr 4, 2007)

I believe you can just tap that into a headlight/tail light power. You just need a 12v that switches on with the lights.


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## President Lincoln (Jun 27, 2005)

arethirdytwo said:


> I believe you can just tap that into a headlight/tail light power. You just need a 12v that switches on with the lights.


I ran the wire up front. So I need to pull the headlight switch and figure out what wire. I have the Euro switch for years but I just couldn't figure out how to get it out w/o breaking it. :laugh:

How do you get the headlight switch out again?



:thumbup:


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## LOW36 (Jan 18, 2008)

arethirdytwo said:


> I believe you can just tap that into a headlight/tail light power. You just need a 12v that switches on with the lights.


Yes you can tap into the head light switch or dimmer switch for that.


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## 01 (Sep 9, 2009)

dOWa242 said:


> I ran the wire up front. So I need to pull the headlight switch and figure out what wire. I have the Euro switch for years but I just couldn't figure out how to get it out w/o breaking it. :laugh:
> 
> How do you get the headlight switch out again?
> 
> ...


Push the knob in and turn to the right. Don't be scared you wont break it.

As for BY vs XL. I say swap em out. Just for pece of mind. I just expect bags to fail and I would like the fast customer service that airlift has over BY.


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## President Lincoln (Jun 27, 2005)

Evil_Panda said:


> Yes you can tap into the head light switch or dimmer switch for that.





01 said:


> Push the knob in and turn to the right. Don't be scared you wont break it.


Easy enough for the headlight wire. 
So where is a good spot to connect the wire for the switched power? See my pic of the box below the steering column, isn't it right there?



01 said:


> As for BY vs XL. I say swap em out. Just for pece of mind. I just expect bags to fail and I would like the fast customer service that airlift has over BY.


This is what everyone is telling me to do.
So on the XL's, you don't need any new strut bearings or any of that stuff do you? Isn't it just drill and install right out of the box?

:thumbup::thumbup:


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## 01 (Sep 9, 2009)

dOWa242 said:


> Easy enough for the headlight wire.
> So where is a good spot to connect the wire for the switched power? See my pic of the box below the steering column, isn't it right there?
> 
> 
> ...


drill and install right out of the box, just make sure to drill properly and you will be good.. 

as always, im always around to help if you want..


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## DarkSideGTI (Aug 11, 2001)

dOWa242 said:


> Easy enough for the headlight wire.
> So where is a good spot to connect the wire for the switched power? See my pic of the box below the steering column, isn't it right there?


75x on the fuse panel under the dash for switched power. 









I used the dimmer switch for my controller. It is the blue/grey wire here.


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## JDM-JTI (Sep 23, 2004)

with the XLs you have to drill into the strut towers which one might assume its super sketchy .. but you get a "template" design in the manual to cutout and match up .. then put sharpie marker dots where the holes should be ... start with a super small drill bit and work your way up .. checking fitment between each increment .. then coated the bare metal with anti rust stuff


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## 01 (Sep 9, 2009)

JDM-JTI said:


> with the XLs you have to drill into the strut towers which one might assume its super sketchy .. but you get a "template" design in the manual to cutout and match up .. then put sharpie marker dots where the holes should be ... start with a super small drill bit and work your way up .. checking fitment between each increment .. then coated the bare metal with anti rust stuff


It's really not that sketchy. 2 simple holes per tower. And done. 

Also, drill the holes from underneath. Makes it much easier.


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## David802 (Feb 23, 2011)

dOWa242 said:


> Yeah, pannels out of the rear, seats out, airfilter, pollen filter, battery, spare tire, fenderliners, door sills, are all out of the car ATM. I am sure I am forgetting stuff..
> 
> You call that paintless dent removal guy yet? :facepalm:


You know he hasn't.... 



dOWa242 said:


> I am gonn have you testing the e-level, since you are a big guy


Finally a perk for being a fat ass! :beer: I'll try not to crush the bolsters. :thumbup:


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## President Lincoln (Jun 27, 2005)

I move slow update. Took the swaybar out tonight. 1 hour and shots inbetween :laugh:

So, I know alot of people cut the swaybar out.. but that is not needed. It's really pretty easy if you know what you're doing and have a jack, stands, and a basic socket set.

I was a little weary but after a call to a local VW tech he pointed us in the right direction real quick.









Take this bolt out that holds the steering rack to the column.











Then just take all the bolts out that hold the swaybar on (4, 2 on each side) and the end-links (2, one on each side) no photo sorry  so easy.









My buddy Nate  sold me the car new. :thumbup: good to have 2 sets of hands.








Then loosen the 4 bolts that hold the subframe to the car (the large 21mm) and get a jack under the subframe about where the dogbone is.








Remove the dogbone mount. (4 bolts) easy.


At this point yo pretty much drop the subframe a good 5 inches. Just lower the jack









This shot ^ is after the bar is out. It comes out fairly easy, with some manuvering. End-links need to be off and the whole subframe lowered about 5 to 7 inches. It really won't go much more because of the power steering fluid lines.


















Random shot^









And another random where you can see my passenger axle was rubbing the swaybar, I never felt it.. and if you look real close you can see where my axle has hit the frame rail once or twice. I was just on coilovers. Car has 37k right now and has had CV boots replaced once and they are torn again. Price you pay to be lowered.

Hopefully get some more done soon :laugh:


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## DarkSideGTI (Aug 11, 2001)

yeah you don't need to cut it but it is easier and cheaper. When you drop the subframe like that you should get an alignment, but you will probably be getting one anyway after installing the bags.


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## 01 (Sep 9, 2009)

DarkSideGTI said:


> yeah you don't need to cut it but it is easier and cheaper. When you drop the subframe like that you should get an alignment, but you will probably be getting one anyway after installing the bags.


truth, not to mention, most who cut them out dont plan on returning to stock :laugh:


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## christanand (Aug 10, 2006)

01 said:


> truth, not to mention, most who cut them out dont plan on returning to stock :laugh:


or just plan on getting a h-sport front bar


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## President Lincoln (Jun 27, 2005)

I was real carefull on aligning it to the old marks. I made some marks for reference. It's nice with the imola, you can just see right where the clean paint was underneath and where the dirt broke.

But yeah, I will be getting aligned and I'll mention the subframe was dropped.


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## arethirdytwo (Apr 4, 2007)

Alignment is weird. My subframe/suspension has been on and off so many times. Literally dozens. Yet I can still set her up to drive straight on the highway. I can tell you it's off, I notice this on turn in, but it works. I often wonder how people get it soooo bad the car crab walks.


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## 16v_HOR (Jul 21, 2005)

I hope that VW tech advised you to buy new stretch bolts for the subframe. That's another reason I just cut mine out, it seemed kinda pointless to drop the subframe and replace the stretch bolts ($30-35 at the dealer btw) for a sway bar that I will only be able to sell for about $20. Either way I give you props for having the patience to drop the subframe and remove it intact, any chance of the struts going in this weekend?


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## President Lincoln (Jun 27, 2005)

16v_HOR said:


> I hope that VW tech advised you to buy new stretch bolts for the subframe. That's another reason I just cut mine out, it seemed kinda pointless to drop the subframe and replace the stretch bolts ($30-35 at the dealer btw) for a sway bar that I will only be able to sell for about $20. Either way I give you props for having the patience to drop the subframe and remove it intact, any chance of the struts going in this weekend?


 Good call on the stretch bolts. I will replace them once all is dialed in. I finally got the front struts installed yesterday. They went in like butta. I just don't understand the problems people were having with spreading the knuckle. My Koni's literally fell out. :laugh: I also don't understand why Airlift instructions say you need to undo the axle and ball joint..  



















Sorry I'm taking so long. 










































The finished product - BY rear installed. 









From the bottom:


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## OVRWRKD (Jul 1, 2010)

For the rear bags: they should have a silver nutsert threaded onto the top of the bag. You probably don't have a tool for it, so you'll need to take the nutsert to your local hardware store. Get the correct thread bolt about 1.5"-2" in length. Also get a nut, and possible a 1/4" spacer helps keep you from binding the tool. Take the but an drill out the threads so it slides freely over the bolt. Place the nutsert into the nipple, thread the bolt in (with the but and spacer), hold the nut closest to the nipple and tighten the bolt. That will tighten the nutsert. Nice thing about the bagyards is that's all you need to do, no further modifications. There's a bunch of different ways to make the tool, a quick google search for nutsert installation tool should give you a bunch of images to work from:beer:


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## groverone (Feb 27, 2002)

dowa is bagg-ed! hit, hit...


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## LOW36 (Jan 18, 2008)

groverone said:


> dowa is bagg-ed! hit, hit...


Blasphemy, Lincoln will be bagged when I finish my car.... Never... :laugh:


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## President Lincoln (Jun 27, 2005)

Evil_Panda said:


> Blasphemy, Lincoln will be bagged when I finish my car.... Never... :laugh:


It's true. The car goes up and down. Still need tohook up the sensors though.

My tires are holding me up too. 225/40/18 on 8.5 +25 dont work well.

So I am thinking a 215/40/18 will do the trick. I hope. Might have to loose the fender liner too.

Also I have a Hotchkiss under axle swaybar comming soon. 

Can anybody give me advice on tires?


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## LOW36 (Jan 18, 2008)

You will be fine with 215/40. I have 215/35 on my 18x8's


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## 01 (Sep 9, 2009)

dOWa242 said:


> It's true. The car goes up and down. Still need tohook up the sensors though.
> 
> My tires are holding me up too. 225/40/18 on 8.5 +25 dont work well.
> 
> ...


none of this matters if you don't plan on notching..


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## President Lincoln (Jun 27, 2005)

Evil_Panda said:


> You will be fine with 215/40. I have 215/35 on my 18x8's


I was think about going with 35 series. they just seem so small.





01 said:


> none of this matters if you don't plan on notching..


I have to say it's all relative.. no sway or a proper swaybar set up. Proper wheel / tire set up are the biggest things on my list. They are going to matter. Car is sitting on fenders and tires and needs to be corrected. I personally want to run a swaybar, although I have removed it. Going to give the h-sport a try. Once the car is actually resting w/the axle on the frame rail I will make the call. I am not here to lay frame although it might score you brownie points, I dont care what people think, I care what I think. :heart:

I though Nicks R and Jordans mk5 both looked plenty low enough for me and neither had frame notches when I saw their cars at the Wasatch classic last weekend.

I am going to get it all dialed in and then make the decision on the notch.


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## DarkSideGTI (Aug 11, 2001)

here is an 8.5 et 35 with 215/40 up front. I later put in 5mm spacers and still had room with the rolled fenders.


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