# N75 ECS J valve installed and got a check engine P1289 with 9PSI boost



## germanengineering g60 (Aug 20, 2007)

N75 ECS J valve installed and got a check engine P1289 with 9PSI boost 

I tried to use it with my turboxs MBC and got this code. than I did just the Jvalve and still have this code. 

APR stage 2plus 
SAI/N249/PCV/EVAP Delete 











routing


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## toy4two2 (Feb 6, 2012)

try flipping it 180 degrees, part going into tip looks backwards from the N75 on my car, but I use a stocker


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## JS53MES (Sep 2, 2012)

This might help you : 

http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?um=1...0&ndsp=15&ved=1t:429,r:7,s:0,i:95&tx=92&ty=51


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Once you have confirmed your n75 orientation is correct, check fuse 34.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Long leg of the N75 always goes into the TIP. I can't tell what's going on from your pictures though. :laugh:


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## germanengineering g60 (Aug 20, 2007)

20v master said:


> Long leg of the N75 always goes into the TIP. I can't tell what's going on from your pictures though. :laugh:


 long leg in to turbo inlet pipe


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Have you pulled and checked fuse #34?


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## germanengineering g60 (Aug 20, 2007)

Fuse 34 was fried. What could have caused it? 
But still 9psi while running on just the n75 Jvalve.


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## toy4two2 (Feb 6, 2012)

add some of those missing hose clamps too


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## germanengineering g60 (Aug 20, 2007)

toy4two2 said:


> add some of those missing hose clamps too


 that was just for the pic. they were all clamped down when testing.


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## germanengineering g60 (Aug 20, 2007)

JS53MES said:


> This might help you :
> 
> http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?um=1...0&ndsp=15&ved=1t:429,r:7,s:0,i:95&tx=92&ty=51


 your link just confirmed that I installed the Jvalve correctly.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

germanengineering g60 said:


> Fuse 34 was fried. What could have caused it?
> But still 9psi while running on just the n75 Jvalve.


 Two things: 
- Check and make sure you don't have a short in your N75 plug or wiring (do the same for the N249 plug as they share that fuse). 

- Pull the fuse again to see if it's fried again. If it is, that will confirm a short - if not and the code is gone, reset the ECU by pulling a battery terminal and you should be good.


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## TommyTT (Jul 10, 2012)

Put your old N75 in and see what happens... 

I put a OE N75J in my car After my tune and was down to stock 15psi, put the old one back in... back to 22psi


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## germanengineering g60 (Aug 20, 2007)

TommyTT said:


> Put your old N75 in and see what happens...
> 
> I put a OE N75J in my car After my tune and was down to stock 15psi, put the old one back in... back to 22psi


 I broke a nipple off of my stock one. the funny thing is that if I bypass the Jvalve and just go with the MBC I cet stable 19psi without spike. but people say its not safe so I spent $150 on a Jvalve and its a no go.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Well, if you're running solid with the MBC, why bother fuching with the N75? Just set the MBC to whatever boost level you feel is appropriate to your mapping and *forget it*.


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## germanengineering g60 (Aug 20, 2007)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Well, if you're running solid with the MBC, why bother fuching with the N75? Just set the MBC to whatever boost level you feel is appropriate to your mapping and *forget it*.


it jerks when letting of gas so Im thinking the N75 will take that away


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## germanengineering g60 (Aug 20, 2007)

removed the n75 and running 18 psi without the n75. but I need the n75 on. please, any help?


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## toy4two2 (Feb 6, 2012)

buy another N75, non-race, remove the MBC


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## Pass18t (Oct 18, 2003)

The code is electrical related, not performance related. Wiring, connectors or N75 itself. Did you start/run it at all with it unplugged?


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## germanengineering g60 (Aug 20, 2007)

found a hole in my turbo inlet pipe. that was throwing it off and now is all well. stable 18 psi.


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