# Shaved Bay, Big Turbo, Big Port Winter Build



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Hi, I'm Ant. You may remember me from such threads as Earwigs: Eww! and Maintenance is paramount. 

This winter I'm going BT. 

Parts:
Genesis II 1000cc w/ 3bar
Tial MVS wastegate
Tial 50mm BOV
IE rifle drilled rods
AEB head
Supertech SS exhaust valves
AGU manifold
Treadstone exhaust manifold
GT3071R-WG with Pag Parts wheel and non wastegated exhaust housing. T3 .63 ar V banded
SINGLE MASS CLUTCH KIT W/ ESS CAST FLYWHEEL STAGE 3
ARP Bolts

Fabrication work will be by Haggard Fab. 
Tuning will be by Gonzo. 

Here is the most recent picture of my bay. 









Plan is to go 400+ while still having an empty OEM look. 

You may check out my full blow AIDS build thread here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5366214-Maintenance-is-paramount.


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## MNShortBus (Mar 14, 2008)

In for this :thumbup:


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

Psyched.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

haggard does fukn insane worka nd with that turbo and gonzo on 1000cc...it will be ssupperr fun!!:beer::thumbup:


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## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

What exhaust housing and A/R? Sounds awesome :thumbup:


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

suffocatemymind said:


> What exhaust housing and A/R? Sounds awesome :thumbup:


He's swapped on a full T3 housing, 63ar:thumbup:


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Vegeta Gti said:


> haggard does fukn insane worka nd with that turbo and gonzo on 1000cc...it will be ssupperr fun!!:beer::thumbup:


I hope so. I've been dying to get everything together, but I'm trying to pace myself so I dont overlook details.



suffocatemymind said:


> What exhaust housing and A/R? Sounds awesome :thumbup:


Very good question. Forgot to mention that in first post. Editing that now. And it is in fact what Jeff stated.



[email protected] said:


> He's swapped on a full T3 housing, 63ar:thumbup:


:thumbup::thumbup:


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

.Ant said:


> Very good question. Forgot to mention that in first post. Editing that now. And it is in fact what Jeff stated.


I'll let you narrate your own thread hombre :laugh:


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## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> He's swapped on a full T3 housing, 63ar:thumbup:


Thanks Jeff :thumbup: I'm _extremely_ interested to see how the 56.5 wheel fairs in the .63 T3 housing with the billet comp wheel!!! opcorn:

I've thought about this setup for so long haha...should be a spool monster, Ant!


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## joeydee (Jul 14, 2012)

Hi .Ant:wave:opcorn:


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## carlhuebner (Jan 10, 2010)

Ayeeeee


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## subisan (Mar 30, 2009)

:heart::wave:


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## Leray (Nov 13, 2013)

sup:wave:


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Alright I have some time to catch people up to what I have already done/shown in my other thread.

I'm deleting my heater core. Biggest eyesore to me was the coolant flange. 









A4 coolant flange is bolt on and doesn't have a heater core port. :thumbup: I know I could have went with a billet piece, however those are costly and I would have to buy all the pieces to match.

Now since I am deleting the one heater line, I am following up in the same fashion on the other line. I will be reusing the hardline as a return coolant line for the turbo. I'm stoked over that because I've been wanting to get rid of the coolant line going around the passanger side. Pipe will be cut at the line and a -6an bung welded on.










Also did my rods a couple weekends ago. 









And did some fcking around today.

Put in the wastegate springs to 11lbs. It was a btch and a half to get the cap back on. Also started pondering vbanding my exhaust manifold. I ordered a 38mm to vband adapter, but I think I may be able to just get the vband adapter from the box welded on.





















suffocatemymind said:


> Thanks Jeff :thumbup: I'm _extremely_ interested to see how the 56.5 wheel fairs in the .63 T3 housing with the billet comp wheel!!! opcorn:
> 
> I've thought about this setup for so long haha...should be a spool monster, Ant!


Yeah I'm super stoked on the turbo. I just wanna half ass everything and put the car back together to drive. However I know I cannot do that. 



joeydee said:


> Hi .Ant:wave:opcorn:





carlhuebner said:


> Ayeeeee





subisan said:


> :heart::wave:





Leray said:


> sup:wave:


Oh sht..... Who let the mk4 forum in..... :beer::wave:


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## yeabmx (Feb 8, 2011)

You missed us, so u lead us here. Idk why it feels even more exciting watching this in this thread 😃👍


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

yeabmx said:


> Idk why it feels even more exciting watching this in this thread 😃👍


Because this thread is about raw power, and pure 100% awesome!?


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## yeabmx (Feb 8, 2011)

And nothing's gone wrong yet?


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

yeabmx said:


> And nothing's gone wrong yet?


Don't jynx him man! :laugh:


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

yeabmx said:


> And nothing's gone wrong yet?


Not true. 

Ordered wrong exhaust housing.
Treadstone exhaust manifold needed to be modified to fit.
Buddy loaned out the one tool I need to seriously progress with the build. (Valve tool)


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

Sounds smooth to me


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Pulled out the valves today without the proper tools. Was not fun.

Dropped off some stuff to Haggard Fab to be welded.

Also received my big boy injectors in the mail. Stoked that they are black.


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

I see bent exhaust valves. Good thing you're replacing them.

I'd be concerned about the intake valves as well; given the bent exhaust valves


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> I see bent exhaust valves. Good thing you're replacing them.
> 
> I'd be concerned about the intake valves as well; given the bent exhaust valves


I know I have bent valves. I've had the replacement valves sitting in my garage for weeks now. I had the head decked and valves checked by my machinist.


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

.Ant said:


> I know I have bent valves. I've had the replacement valves sitting in my garage for weeks now. I had the head decked and valves checked by my machinist.


:beer:


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Question for everyone. 

I'm looking for the metal (gasket?) piece that is crushed between the trans and bottom end. Anyone know what it's referred to as?

I believe it may be the cover plate. 06A103645 or 06A103645D

Could anyone enlighten me?

Number 26/27


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## Dr.Steels (Mar 20, 2012)

in for simular build


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Would you mind posting the part number for that A4 coolant flange?


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Would you mind posting the part number for that A4 coolant flange?


For a while I was thinking of keeping it my little secret but I decided to share the love. 

Part# 06B121132
Comes on b6 a4 1.8ts


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## treid (Mar 3, 2012)

Cover plate is right. My car had parts 27 and 28, but not 26. 06A block and AWP head.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

treid said:


> Cover plate is right. My car had parts 27 and 28, but not 26. 06A block and AWP head.


Thank you. I think 26 and 27 are either/or, not both. 



So little update.

I am getting the exhaust housing tomorrow and the compressor housing should be back from powdercoat this week. 

I ordered a valve compressor to finish the valve installation. Hope that comes in time for next weekend. 

Potentially I will have the turbo, head and block back together this weekend.


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## 20v_boost (Jan 29, 2002)

.Ant said:


> Question for everyone.
> 
> I'm looking for the metal (gasket?) piece that is crushed between the trans and bottom end. Anyone know what it's referred to as?
> 
> ...


Number 26 is for automatics. I just ordered 06A103645 and 038103645A from ECS tuning for an 02J and they look like they'll work just fine.

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES279204/
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES274982/

-Alex


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

20v_boost said:


> Number 26 is for automatics. I just ordered 06A103645 and 038103645A from ECS tuning for an 02J and they look like they'll work just fine.
> 
> http://www.ecstuning.com/ES279204/
> http://www.ecstuning.com/ES274982/
> ...


Last time i did my clutch I mangled it pretty bad getting the tranny out and opted not to reuse it. What is the purpose of it?


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

20v_boost said:


> Number 26 is for automatics. I just ordered 06A103645 and 038103645A from ECS tuning for an 02J and they look like they'll work just fine.
> 
> http://www.ecstuning.com/ES279204/
> http://www.ecstuning.com/ES274982/
> ...


Cool. Thank you. 



formerly silveratljetta said:


> Last time i did my clutch I mangled it pretty bad getting the tranny out and opted not to reuse it. What is the purpose of it?


I was wondering the same thing. Considering not reusing it depending on its purpose.


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## zrau17 (Apr 21, 2010)

The thing between the trans and motor is just like a dust plate or something. Ive had mine out a million times and put it back in. There's not really any need to replace it and some people don't even put them back in.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

zrau17 said:


> The thing between the trans and motor is just like a dust plate or something. Ive had mine out a million times and put it back in. There's not really any need to replace it and some people don't even put them back in.


That what I was thinking. Depending on the part #, it's like a $50-100 part. If its unnecessary, then why bother.


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## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

Looking good!!!!


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Swapped out housings today. Hoping to get my compressor back tomorrow. 









Also painted the head. 









And wg housing is for sale if anyone is interested



suffocatemymind said:


> Looking good!!!!


Thank you sir


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

So here is where I stick my foot in my mouth and admit I messed up big time. 

I did not mark the cam bearing caps when I pulled them off the head. They are all sitting in a ziplock bag. Just realized this. 

So does anyone have any incite on how I may be able to figure out their proper locations?


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

.Ant said:


> So here is where I stick my foot in my mouth and admit I messed up big time.
> 
> I did not mark the cam bearing caps when I pulled them off the head. They are all sitting in a ziplock bag. Just realized this.
> 
> So does anyone have any incite on how I may be able to figure out their proper locations?


I could have sworn they were numbered.


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## Dr.Steels (Mar 20, 2012)

.Ant said:


> So here is where I stick my foot in my mouth and admit I messed up big time.
> 
> I did not mark the cam bearing caps when I pulled them off the head. They are all sitting in a ziplock bag. Just realized this.
> 
> So does anyone have any incite on how I may be able to figure out their proper locations?


IIRC they are stamped 1-5 with the "1" being furthest from the timing belt..


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

So my panic has passed after finding this picture on my phone. 













formerly silveratljetta said:


> I could have sworn they were numbered.





Dr.Steels said:


> IIRC they are stamped 1-5 with the "1" being furthest from the timing belt..


Yep. They are numbered. Such a relief.


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## 4ceFed4 (Apr 3, 2002)

.Ant said:


> For a while I was thinking of keeping it my little secret but I decided to share the love.
> 
> Part# 06B121132
> Comes on b6 a4 1.8ts


Thanks for sharing. Any idea what killed your stock exhaust valves?


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

4ceFed4 said:


> Thanks for sharing. Any idea what killed your stock exhaust valves?


The head came from a broken timing belt job. Buddy gave me the head for free if I was willing to rebuild it. I brought it to a machinist and had him check and deck it. I only had three bent valves. To be safe I'm rebuilding all the exhaust valves with supertechs. The two bent intakes are being replaced with oem.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Just found my manifold on Instagram.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

.Ant said:


> Just found my manifold on Instagram.


Good idea with the vband. Should be a nice setup


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

Beautiful stack of dimes! 

You were right, your boy CAN weld!!


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## zrau17 (Apr 21, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> Beautiful stack of dimes!
> 
> You were right, your boy CAN weld!!


Dood can weld like no other. As long as he's around I'll never go anywhere else. Laid back and will work with you on basically whatever you want.


Was gonna tag you in that picture Ant, figured you'd see it anyway and here it is haha


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## zrau17 (Apr 21, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> Beautiful stack of dimes!
> 
> You were right, your boy CAN weld!!


Dood can weld like no other. As long as he's around I'll never go anywhere else. Laid back and will work with you on basically whatever you want.


Was gonna tag you in that picture Ant, figured you'd see it anyway and here it is haha


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

nice job. i did this with pure nickel stick rods.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Good idea with the vband. Should be a nice setup


Absolutely. It's allowing me to position the wastegate to its ideal position rather than being stuck with one position like the 38mm. 



[email protected] said:


> Beautiful stack of dimes!
> 
> You were right, your boy CAN weld!!


Damn straight. 



zrau17 said:


> Dood can weld like no other. As long as he's around I'll never go anywhere else. Laid back and will work with you on basically whatever you want.
> 
> 
> Was gonna tag you in that picture Ant, figured you'd see it anyway and here it is haha


Mhm. So glad that he's "around the corner". 



speed51133! said:


> nice job. i did this with pure nickel stick rods.


Nice dude. Was that for the exhaust housing? Mine is for the wastegate.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Alright so I was able to snap some pictures of my goodies from today. 

Powdered wrinkle black by DubFresh (Lucas from Corn Status).









ECS Hybrid oil pan adapter with a -10 fitting. Welded by Haggard Fab.









Treadstone manifold with vband welded to the wastegate for Tial MVS. Welded by Haggard fab.









Coolant pipe modified with a -6 fitting. Once again, Haggard Fab

















Keeping it simple with this MBC.









Got the right tools to finish the valve job. Should have bought this weeks ago.









And not really engine related, but I also picked up one of these from Haggard. Dope sht.









Sorry for the odd sized pictures. Photobucket has been horrible lately.


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## mn20th (May 9, 2010)

Nice build man. If you don't mind me asking how much you pay for that brake canister?


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

mn20th said:


> Nice build man. If you don't mind me asking how much you pay for that brake canister?


http://haggardfab.bigcartel.com/

He was having a 10% off promotion when I bought it. I think it came out to be $117. He does free shipping, however I picked it up from him since I was already going there.


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## carlhuebner (Jan 10, 2010)

I feel like I'm reading double.


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## Dr.Steels (Mar 20, 2012)

That valve spring compressor sucks ass. I threw mine out halfway through my valve job

Sent from my LG-D803 using Tapatalk


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Have you checked firewall clearance with that T3 vband adapter welded to the manifold? I remember my buddy was running the same manifold in the original T3 configuration with a 30R and firewall clearance was pretty tight.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

.Ant said:


> Alright I have some time to catch people up to what I have already done/shown in my other thread.
> 
> I'm deleting my heater core. Biggest eyesore to me was the coolant flange.


I was looking closer at that coolant flange. On the bottom coolant port there doesnt appear to be a lip around the nipple to prevent the hose from popping off under pressure. How do you plan to address this? On the A4 there must be some special fitting to attach that hose???


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Have you checked firewall clearance with that T3 vband adapter welded to the manifold? I remember my buddy was running the same manifold in the original T3 configuration with a 30R and firewall clearance was pretty tight.


Haven't checked firewall clearance. When I mocked everything up I saw no concerns over the wastegate hitting. It only sticks above the valve cover a couple inches. I'm pretty sure my previous charge pipe sat higher. 



formerly silveratljetta said:


> I was looking closer at that coolant flange. On the bottom coolant port there doesnt appear to be a lip around the nipple to prevent the hose from popping off under pressure. How do you plan to address this? On the A4 there must be some special fitting to attach that hose???


There is a quick disconnect like the heater core fitting. I would like to get my hands on one and see if I can make it work. Unfortunately the actual b6 fitting looks terrible and wouldn't cut it for me. I may have to take a trip to the junkyard and look for something that works. 

If not, the flange should be solid plastic right there. I can take a dremel to it to open up more space for a hose clamp.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

.Ant said:


> Haven't checked firewall clearance. When I mocked everything up I saw no concerns over the wastegate hitting. It only sticks above the valve cover a couple inches. I'm pretty sure my previous charge pipe sat higher.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I was referring to clearance for the turbo not the wastegate. Wastegate should be fine.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> I was referring to clearance for the turbo not the wastegate. Wastegate should be fine.


Yeah I haven't tested. I may or may not need to notch the firewall. A buddy with a similar manifold needed to notch his firewall with his 3071R, however I saw people fit 3076s without issue. From what I see, it's hit or miss. I'm not concerned about it and I will cross that bridge when I get there.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Got the chance to work today.

Put the turbo back together...
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/11156537374" title="Untitled by Ant Parmenter, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5523/11156537374_90d27a7c64.jpg" width="500" height="500" alt="Untitled"></a>

Lapped the exhaust valves and put them in. Still need to do the intakes. Unfortunetly I am no longer sure which two were bent so I may just replace them all. Lapping them all could only help. If I got the chance I may as well do it.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/11156549224" title=" by Ant Parmenter, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3787/11156549224_cf4eace10f.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt=" "></a>

Mocked up everything. Stoked.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/11156674953" title=" by Ant Parmenter, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7407/11156674953_de491c7a97.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt=" "></a>

Painted the block.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/11156684583" title=" by Ant Parmenter, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5546/11156684583_cfa0c174bd.jpg" width="500" height="500" alt=" "></a>

Coolant pipe turned out fantastic! 
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/11156679733" title=" by Ant Parmenter, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7312/11156679733_4571f48e16.jpg" width="500" height="500" alt=" "></a>


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

.Ant said:


> Got the chance to work today.
> 
> Put the turbo back together...
> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/11156537374" title="Untitled by Ant Parmenter, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5523/11156537374_90d27a7c64.jpg" width="500" height="500" alt="Untitled"></a>
> ...


What method and paint are you using to paint the cylinder head and the block?


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> What method and paint are you using to paint the cylinder head and the block?


VHT Flameproof spray paint. Primer, paint, clear. Same as I did last year and it held up just fine. Didnt really need to do the block again, but I wanted the paint to match the head.


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

MOAR!


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## Rumpelstilzchen (Oct 24, 2009)

That brake canister looks great


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Got a good day of work in.

Swapped and lapped all 12 intakes valves from my AWW to AEB. Then put the AEB all together with the VVT.









Set everything to TDC and bolted the head back on. 80 ft lbs made my little arms hurt.









IE manual tensioner and Gates racing belt are on the way. Got the hardware for my exhaust manifold tonight. I may have inadvertantly ordered the wrong size. Ill see tomorrow. :facepalm:

Also threw on my oil adapter. Turned out great.












Rumpelstilzchen said:


> That brake canister looks great


I know. It's so awesome.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Didn't do much motorwise today. Kinda just bolted some things together

























Also starting thinking about where I am hiding my MBC and vacuum manifold.


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

Clearance looks great on he mvs wastegate. I must admit that I was worried about it; even with the space saving mvs. It looks like guys considering using this manifold have an elegant solution. The Bolton v-band adaptor should work just as well for those who don't want to get involved with gratuitous fabrication. :thumbup:


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Although it is stealth, I wouldn't run a filter like that on the crank vent - only because it will get the block and all surrounding parts dirty if you drive the car a decent amount.


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## carlhuebner (Jan 10, 2010)

18T_BT said:


> Although it is stealth, I wouldn't run a filter like that on the crank vent - only because it will get the block and all surrounding parts dirty if you drive the car a decent amount.


I have mine the same way and it's honestly not THAT bad. Plus it's not a daily, a quick wipe at shows is all it takes.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> Clearance looks great on he mvs wastegate. I must admit that I was worried about it; even with the space saving mvs. It looks like guys considering using this manifold have an elegant solution. The Bolton v-band adaptor should work just as well for those who don't want to get involved with gratuitous fabrication. :thumbup:


Absolutely. One issue I have is those open bolt holes for the wg. I may just buy a short flanged bolt to plug them and ease my mind. 

I do have a complaint about the vband though. SAE hardware. :thumbdown: I had to run out to the hardware store to replace them for its metric counterpart. I'm not carrying around a set of SAE tools if I don't have to. 



18T_BT said:


> Although it is stealth, I wouldn't run a filter like that on the crank vent - only because it will get the block and all surrounding parts dirty if you drive the car a decent amount.


I had it vented like that for a year now. I clean my bay each time I drive. It never really builds up that bad. Car is no longer a daily, however it may see the road more after I'm done.


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

I'm surprised that you haven't painted the cam gear


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> I'm surprised that you haven't painted the cam gear


Thought about powdering it, but I'm putting the cover back so it won't be necessary.


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## ph4n70m (Oct 11, 2010)

looks like your doing well with this build. I'm hoping ill be able to do something like this one day.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

ph4n70m said:


> looks like your doing well with this build. I'm hoping ill be able to do something like this one day.


Thanks man. I'll be around if you ever need a hand. You, Luke, and I could build your motor in a weekend.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Motor build is going into a hiatus while I get other things sorted out. 

For example....


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

Motor build is pretty much done anyway; sans downpipe, and charge piping of course.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> Motor build is pretty much done anyway; sans downpipe, and charge piping of course.


Exactly. Just fabrication left.


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

.Ant said:


> Exactly. Just fabrication left.


Basically its time to take a breather before Haggard's bill, amirite?


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

Updates? opcorn:


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Nothing much. Still working on the wiring. My next purchase will be the hardware and piping for the water and oil lines. Then the motor will fully be ready to put back together. 

Actually, I also need to modify and powdercoat the intake manifold as well.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Making the water and oil hardlines this weekend. 

Anyone have any recommendations before I move forward?

I won't be able to do the -10 lines until I find a 5/8 tube bender. My father in law should have one since he's a plumber.


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## 87vr6 (Jan 17, 2002)

:wave:


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

87vr6 said:


> :wave:


Hello


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

I wasn't able to get as much time to work on my car this weekend so I didn't finish my hardlines. I was able to take care of the water lines though.


























I'm happy. No kinks. And I only had to remake a line once. Good thing because I ran out of 3/8 tubing.


Edit: Looking at the one line, I may have to remake it. It may hit my downpipe. :facepalm:


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

:thumbup::thumbup:opcorn:


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## 20v_boost (Jan 29, 2002)

Watch out with those hard lines (which look great btw). I had a hard oil feed line and over time (about a year) a small crack developed right where the flare was (see pic). It seemed to be caused by the endless fatigue of the vibration on that joint. Just think about it.










-Alex


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

20v_boost said:


> Watch out with those hard lines (which look great btw). I had a hard oil feed line and over time (about a year) a small crack developed right where the flare was (see pic). It seemed to be caused by the endless fatigue of the vibration on that joint. Just think about it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Couldn't he adapt one end to use a short piece of braided line to absorb the vibration?


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Made the oil feed line. I'm gonna be searching for a bracket to keep it in line with the coolant line. I'm thinking of something like a motorcycle line bracket. I'm up for suggestions if anyone has any.





























.T.o.n.y. said:


> :thumbup::thumbup:opcorn:


:beer::beer:



20v_boost said:


> Watch out with those hard lines (which look great btw). I had a hard oil feed line and over time (about a year) a small crack developed right where the flare was (see pic). It seemed to be caused by the endless fatigue of the vibration on that joint. Just think about it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


It's definitely a concern. I'm looking for a bracket for the lines. Perhaps one that could reduce the amount of vibration.

And out of curiosity, what type of tubing did you use?



formerly silveratljetta said:


> Couldn't he adapt one end to use a short piece of braided line to absorb the vibration?


That is a thought I had. I could cut out a portion behind the block and add a braided portion. Definitely want to reduce resonance as much as possible.


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

So for a bracket for my hardlines I am thinking about using this.










Wrap the hardlines with rubber hose and clamp on the bracket over the rubber hose.


----------



## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

20v_boost said:


> Watch out with those hard lines (which look great btw). I had a hard oil feed line and over time (about a year) a small crack developed right where the flare was (see pic). It seemed to be caused by the endless fatigue of the vibration on that joint. Just think about it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Good call :thumbup:



formerly silveratljetta said:


> Couldn't he adapt one end to use a short piece of braided line to absorb the vibration?


Sounds like a cool idea :thumbup:


----------



## 20v_boost (Jan 29, 2002)

I used stainless tubing from McMaster. It was annealed but I bet it would have done better if it was softer.

Keep up the tight work!


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

nice build, love all the hard lines


----------



## SCMK4GTI (May 10, 2011)

lovin it opcorn:


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

So I've been tipped off that there has been a couple tial WGs potentially failing because they were not water cooled. My original plan was to not use the water ports either. Now I am planning on running the water lines. 

Plan is to T the turbo water inlet and outlet and run them to the WG. Here's a simple picture of my plan. 










Anyone have any thoughts about this setup?



20v_boost said:


> I used stainless tubing from McMaster. It was annealed but I bet it would have done better if it was softer.
> 
> Keep up the tight work!


Thanks for the input. I'll definitely keep an eye on it. 



carsluTT said:


> nice build, love all the hard lines





SCMK4GTI said:


> lovin it opcorn:


Thank you gentlemen :beer:


----------



## joeydee (Jul 14, 2012)

Nice drawing


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

That's some nice hardline work.

I have a small issue with running such long hard lines unsupported though onto a high vibration item like the turbo.

I would create a support block that bolts to the back of the motor block and kind of clamps down on the two hard lines you have running back there. That way you have those hard lines solidly anchored somewhere and not 100% depending on their flared ends to hold them in place.

It should be easy to fab. Just two pieces of aluminum plate with the appropriate holes and correct angle...a couple of machine screws to clamp them together...and a hold to bolt it to one of the threaded holes in the back of the block.

If you don't support hard lines they will fatigue and break over the long term.

...

As to the water cooled wastegate, I think you should just leave it air cooled. You won't be doing your ultra clean bay any favors with the extra plumbing required. I do like the parallel to the turbo coolant ports idea though. Seems pretty good.


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

joeydee said:


> Nice drawing


Should have used crayon. 




groggory said:


> That's some nice hardline work.
> 
> I have a small issue with running such long hard lines unsupported though onto a high vibration item like the turbo.
> 
> ...



Making a bracket definitely has been on the back of my mind. 

I want to try to use a hose separator as I described a couple posts ago to make brackets. There is a good spot for the oil and water return to bolt in a bracket. I have to check out a spot for the water feed line after I remake it. 

And as for water cooling the wg, as I previously told you, is rather be safe than sorry. I figure I will be able to tuck the lines behind the head. And tubing isn't a terrible eyesore to a certain extent.


----------



## L.I.VW13 (Apr 9, 2006)

I would say the water ports are not needed in a build like this. Ive done plenty(100+) big turbo builds with either this(tial mvs) or precision wastegates and can honestly say I've never used the water ports. The cars have over 50K+ miles on said builds without wastegate issues. This and also seeing many many race cars using 2 mvs' and there extreme heat and no water ports being used. 

I believe 100% you will be fine without using them.


----------



## carlhuebner (Jan 10, 2010)

Plus you'll be hoodless more times than not which will help with the aircool :laugh:

I say mock it up if you have the supplies or it's inexpensive. If you don't like it, just ditch the watercooled idea and by what others are saying, you'll probably be okay.


----------



## joeydee (Jul 14, 2012)

carlhuebner said:


> Plus you'll be hoodless more times than not which will help with the aircool :laugh:
> 
> I say mock it up if you have the supplies or it's inexpensive. If you don't like it, just ditch the watercooled idea and by what others are saying, you'll probably be okay.


Just make sure it doesn't rain on your way to waterfest when you have no hood and wipers


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

L.I.VW13 said:


> I would say the water ports are not needed in a build like this. Ive done plenty(100+) big turbo builds with either this(tial mvs) or precision wastegates and can honestly say I've never used the water ports. The cars have over 50K+ miles on said builds without wastegate issues. This and also seeing many many race cars using 2 mvs' and there extreme heat and no water ports being used.
> 
> I believe 100% you will be fine without using them.


Thanks for the input. I think I will not be water cooling afterall. Money is getting tight and I'm not spending it on places that dont need it.



carlhuebner said:


> Plus you'll be hoodless more times than not which will help with the aircool :laugh:
> 
> I say mock it up if you have the supplies or it's inexpensive. If you don't like it, just ditch the watercooled idea and by what others are saying, you'll probably be okay.


Yeah I thinking of ditching the idea. The house is slowing my progress. I may be closing early next month. It's happening quick.



joeydee said:


> Just make sure it doesn't rain on your way to waterfest when you have no hood and wipers


You have a point.


----------



## carlhuebner (Jan 10, 2010)

joeydee said:


> Just make sure it doesn't rain on your way to waterfest when you have no hood and wipers


Been there done that. Ain't no biggie.


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

so awesome seeing someone use the treadstone manifold, i need to upgrade to the new one, but my OG version is fukn solid. 

build is really going great, solid stuff man. keep up the good work.:beer::beer:


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

also..what coolant flange is that? MKIII??


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Vegeta Gti said:


> also..what coolant flange is that? MKIII??


It says on page 1 Audi A4 flange with the part number.


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Finished the turbo lines and tightened them all up. Timed the beast and threw some oil inside it. Garage was 25 degrees with the wood stove on. :banghead:










I want to have a buddy come over and check my timing, just as a precaution. Air filter is a bit too big for my liking. Anyone have suggestions on a stubby filter?

Also started working my vacuum manifold. Need to pick up some metal to make a bracket for it. All of the lines are going to be silicone hose in lieu of hardlines as I previously considered.










Also started working on my AGU manifold. Deleteing the brake booster port. Drilled and tapped the port to 1/4 NPT and will be jamming a low profile allen key plug. Doing the same to the large port under the manifold as well. Home depot/Ace hardware didnt have the correct NPT plugs, so I had to order from McMaster Carr.










And on a side note, does anyone know what the threaded hole near the side port is for? Just wondering that.






Vegeta Gti said:


> so awesome seeing someone use the treadstone manifold, i need to upgrade to the new one, but my OG version is fukn solid.
> 
> build is really going great, solid stuff man. keep up the good work.:beer::beer:


Thanks man. The manifold is pretty dope. I'm certainly happy with it so far other than having to grind some spots to make it fit.



Vegeta Gti said:


> also..what coolant flange is that? MKIII??





formerly silveratljetta said:


> It says on page 1 Audi A4 flange with the part number.


Yep.


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Looking at the picture, looks like the oil line may be in the way of my axle. :facepalm: Way to go Ant.


----------



## jbdubn (Feb 3, 2009)

I use this filter from vibrant. It's pretty compact. I believe it's a 4 1/2"


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

.Ant said:


> Looking at the picture, looks like the oil line may be in the way of my axle. :facepalm: Way to go Ant.


Return line is absolutely in the way. I went ahead and ordered a 5/8 JIC 90* swivel fitting so I can make a tighter bend.












jbdubn said:


> I use this filter from vibrant. It's pretty compact. I believe it's a 4 1/2"


Thank you for the input. I forgot to mention that the filter has to be black. :laugh: I'll check it out anyway.


----------



## carlhuebner (Jan 10, 2010)

I agree with it having to be black, but that tone of red doesn't look obnoxious. I think it would go just fine if you don't find anything else


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

treadstone performance has a wide variety of black stealth air filters. Check them out.


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

carlhuebner said:


> I agree with it having to be black, but that tone of red doesn't look obnoxious. I think it would go just fine if you don't find anything else


From the angle of the picture it doesn't look bad, but from the front it passes the side of the motor. It may work if the downpipe equals it out. 

I may even trim the filter so it sits closer to the turbo to get it completely behind the motor. We'll see.



formerly silveratljetta said:


> treadstone performance has a wide variety of black stealth air filters. Check them out.


I may give a treadstone one a shot actually. I need to measure the one I have and compare.


----------



## MNShortBus (Mar 14, 2008)

.Ant said:


> And on a side note, does anyone know what the threaded hole near the side port is for? Just wondering that.


I think its used on cars with drive by cable throttle bodies? A bracket to hold the wire bolts to it.


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

MNShortBus said:


> I think its used on cars with drive by cable throttle bodies? A bracket to hold the wire bolts to it.


That's what I was thinking, however the AGU is DBC and the manifold has it's own cable bracket on the front. 










I would imagine if it was for DBC, all manifolds would have the AGU bracket as well. Food for thought.


----------



## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

Oddly enough; my aww manifold had this tapped hole as well. I actually mounted my catch can there


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

I don't run a filter on my turbo with my treadstone. Blade was perfect age 4.5 years when I sent it to Arnold for billet treatment. 

Thence again I haver less room in my mk1 engine bay lol

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

You need some form of flex in that return line, same with the feed as well.


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Vegeta Gti said:


> I don't run a filter on my turbo with my treadstone. Blade was perfect age 4.5 years when I sent it to Arnold for billet treatment.
> 
> Thence again I haver less room in my mk1 engine bay lol
> 
> Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


I'm too afraid to run without a filter. I even considered a mesh filter but still not comfortable. 



Dave926 said:


> You need some form of flex in that return line, same with the feed as well.


Yeah I need to consider the flex.


----------



## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

Woot!


----------



## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

May also wanting to consider making the drain more of a "swooping" curve than a hard 90* bend.

Build looks good:thumbup:


----------



## zrau17 (Apr 21, 2010)

Dave926 said:


> May also wanting to consider making the drain more of a "swooping" curve than a hard 90* bend.


This. The motor is already rocked back a little the way it sits. With that drain there's going to be a pool of oil in the back of the bend just sitting there that will only really drain as more oil gets backed up on top. Ideally you want it to flow straight into the pan. Any bit of slow oil drain from the turbo can cause pressure on the seals and they'll leak.

If you plan on running that 90 fitting right off the pan and having the line drop straight down the back of the block into it then that should be better.


----------



## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

I third the motion to eliminate that 90


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Yeah I'm considering a 45. I'm gonna swing by a local hydraulic shop today and see if they have any in stock. Though I don't see a 90 creating that much of an issue.


----------



## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

.Ant said:


> Yeah I'm considering a 45. I'm gonna swing by a local hydraulic shop today and see if they have any in stock. Though I don't see a 90 creating that much of an issue.


Turbos blow seals constantly because of drain lines that aren't a direct shot. I'm embarrassed that I didn't catch that earlier.


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Worked on the AGU manifold today. Mocked up the fuel rail to see how much of a spacer I need between the rail and manifold.


















Also made a bracket for my vacuum manifold and should be mounting it and running the lines tomorrow.


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Took care of my MBC and vacuum manifold today. Happy how it came out.










Also threw in these hose clamps to keep the wg hose off the manifold and semi-hidden.









And I think I may need to redo the head gasket. Looks like there's oil residue leaking out. :thumbdown:


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

I talked with a friend and he suspects that I have a bad valve cover gasket. I did notice that the new gasket fit rather shtty around the head. Hope that's the issue.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

.Ant said:


> I talked with a friend and he suspects that I have a bad valve cover gasket. I did notice that the new gasket fit rather shtty around the head. Hope that's the issue.


I always use silicone on both sides of the valve cover gasket to prevent those pesky oil leaks


----------



## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> I always use silicone on both sides of the valve cover gasket to prevent those pesky oil leaks


This is very good practice IMO. Our valve cover gaskets are a bit janky


----------



## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> I always use silicone on both sides of the valve cover gasket to prevent those pesky oil leaks


I always thought that the best practice was "one or the other" for gaskets (at least that's what I was taught by dear ol dad when I was a teenager)? Reason being that the gasket interferes with the silicone's bond and vice versa.

Despite this logic, the Bentley calls for silicone ONLY on the head side of the gasket on the longitudinal lines (aka half-moon seal side and timing belt side). I was debating which tactic to choose a few months ago when doing this (gasket vs. gasketless + silicone), so I cracked open the Bentley and that's what it said. 

Needless to say, I've been leak-free ever since :thumbup: Keep it up man...I love this build!


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> I always use silicone on both sides of the valve cover gasket to prevent those pesky oil leaks





[email protected] Performance said:


> This is very good practice IMO. Our valve cover gaskets are a bit janky


I will be doing this today and hoping for the best. :thumbup:




suffocatemymind said:


> I always thought that the best practice was "one or the other" for gaskets (at least that's what I was taught by dear ol dad when I was a teenager)? Reason being that the gasket interferes with the silicone's bond and vice versa.
> 
> Despite this logic, the Bentley calls for silicone ONLY on the head side of the gasket on the longitudinal lines (aka half-moon seal side and timing belt side). I was debating which tactic to choose a few months ago when doing this (gasket vs. gasketless + silicone), so I cracked open the Bentley and that's what it said.
> 
> Needless to say, I've been leak-free ever since :thumbup: Keep it up man...I love this build!


I did follow the Bentley instructions and the seal was iffy. Last year though when I did the vc I was fine. I guess they are hit or miss.


----------



## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

.Ant said:


> I did follow the Bentley instructions and the seal was iffy. Last year though when I did the vc I was fine. I guess they are hit or miss.


Yeah I'm not totally surprised...Jeff nailed it with the "janky" description for sure ha. Just curious, what brand gasket are you using?


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Victor reinz


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

I wish chicks would take your lead and shave during the winter... I mean come the f**k on! Y'all can't pull that BS! It's just nassssty.


----------



## carlhuebner (Jan 10, 2010)

DMVDUB said:


> I wish chicks would take your lead and shave during the winter... I mean come the f**k on! Y'all can't pull that BS! It's just nassssty.


----------



## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

Don't plan on adjusting your boost settings at all? 

How do you plan on accessing your mbc when everything is installed and in place?


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

jstnGTI said:


> Don't plan on adjusting your boost settings at all?
> 
> How do you plan on accessing your mbc when everything is installed and in place?


As simple as reaching my hand down and turning it.  

Remember this is a shaved bay. I dont have anything that would restrict me from the back of the block. The exhaust is going to go on the driver side of the turbo so I will have easy access from the passenger side. It should be easier than trying to adjust a k03/k04 wastegate while the motor is hot.


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Worked on the bracketing. Pretty happy with it so far. Still need to do the oil feed closer to the turbo. I have a game plan and just need to run to the hardware store.










Also figured out what connector is used for my coolant flange.










Just a regular mk4 heater core fitting. 










I had to chop up the fitting and some hosing to get it to work out. However I'm not super stoked on how it is. I'm considering getting a billet fitting and welding a dash fitting to the water pipe. That would work perfectly.


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

And does anyone know the id of the circled coolant flange?


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Love that flange

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## 20v_boost (Jan 29, 2002)

.Ant said:


> I had to chop up the fitting and some hosing to get it to work out. However I'm not super stoked on how it is. I'm considering getting a billet fitting and welding a dash fitting to the water pipe. That would work perfectly.


I would get rid of that hose altogether. That loop used to allow coolant to go through the heater core, where it would loose some heat, and then return to the pump somewhat cooler. If you leave it in as-is, you'll let some hot coolant exit the head to return right back into the pump without going through the radiator.

-Alex


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

20v_boost said:


> I would get rid of that hose altogether. That loop used to allow coolant to go through the heater core, where it would loose some heat, and then return to the pump somewhat cooler. If you leave it in as-is, you'll let some hot coolant exit the head to return right back into the pump without going through the radiator.
> 
> -Alex


this is very true


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

20v_boost said:


> I would get rid of that hose altogether. That loop used to allow coolant to go through the heater core, where it would loose some heat, and then return to the pump somewhat cooler. If you leave it in as-is, you'll let some hot coolant exit the head to return right back into the pump without going through the radiator.
> 
> -Alex


Fckin A! Thank you! Such a better option. Now if I could find a coolant flange with only the one port and a sensor flange it would be perfect. I saw INA made something like that. Does anyone know of any more?


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Got an awesome part in the mail today. Quality is outstanding. 










Got it from [email protected] if anyone is interested.


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## 20v_boost (Jan 29, 2002)

Holy cow that thing looks awesome. Is it threaded for AN fittings? Are you gonna go that route or barbed? I'm guessing you'll plug the extra port?


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

20v_boost said:


> Holy cow that thing looks awesome. Is it threaded for AN fittings? Are you gonna go that route or barbed? I'm guessing you'll plug the extra port?


It has one 16orb and two 10orb. Going to plug the 10s and run a regular hose fitting off the 16. Maybe sometime in the future I'll go braided hose. I already went way over budget this winter.


----------



## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

I hate nitpicking, but brainstorming always comes up with the best solutions.

Two things I noticed,

Allen bolts holding on the turbo manifold?

And may want to make the investment in Stage 8 Bolts. Solve the problem before it begins.


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Dave926 said:


> I hate nitpicking, but brainstorming always comes up with the best solutions.
> 
> Two things I noticed,
> 
> ...


It was an idea I wanted to try before I went BT so I went ahead with it. Stainless bolts shouldn't give me any issues.

I didn't like I how couldn't get a good torque with my old manifold so I'm trying bolts.


----------



## 20v_boost (Jan 29, 2002)

I'm all for experimentation, which is why I like this build so much. But keep an eye on your stainless bolts. Stainless isn't as strong as other steel alloys. Look at my 18-8 oil pan bolts after I tried torquing them to spec. Granted, 18-8 is as cheap as it gets. I still use these throughout my engine, but I pay more attention to how it feels before blindly trusting the torque wrench. On the exhaust I'm using steel studs with copper lock nuts. If they back out I'll probably go stage 8.










-Alex


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

20v_boost said:


> I'm all for experimentation, which is why I like this build so much. But keep an eye on your stainless bolts. Stainless isn't as strong as other steel alloys. Look at my 18-8 oil pan bolts after I tried torquing them to spec. Granted, 18-8 is as cheap as it gets. I still use these throughout my engine, but I pay more attention to how it feels before blindly trusting the torque wrench. On the exhaust I'm using steel studs with copper lock nuts. If they back out I'll probably go stage 8.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Damn. I'm definitely gonna keep an eye on them. I've had stainless bolts all over my motor for a while now and non have been bad like that. Granted, I barely drive it now.


----------



## gitman (May 13, 2004)

.Ant said:


> Treadstone exhaust manifold needed to be modified to fit.


certainly you're not talking about the vband - what modification was needed?


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

gitman said:


> certainly you're not talking about the vband - what modification was needed?


The casting on the top of the head flange needed to be grinded down. It was hitting the bend in the head and wouldn't lay flat.


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## ArcticFox (Nov 4, 2005)

Samething happened with my manifold. I should of called and complained though I though it was a 1 off.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

ArcticFox said:


> Samething happened with my manifold. I should of called and complained though I though it was a 1 off.


Thought the same thing.


----------



## gitman (May 13, 2004)

interesting. is it possible they developed on a head where it does fit proper?


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

gitman said:


> interesting. is it possible they developed on a head where it does fit proper?


Perhaps, but unlikely. Cast products have the tendency to be larger than designed. Casting is certainly not as accurate as CNCs. :laugh:


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Put the new clutch setup on today. Found out the bolts I grabbed off Carl weren't the correct ones. Went to Ace Hardware and picked up 10.9 flanged bolts.



















Please do not mind the straps on the exhaust manifold. They aren't supporting the engine's weight and just there to make sure it doesnt tip over.


----------



## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Idk 10.9 going to be enough?

Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Dave926 said:


> Idk 10.9 going to be enough?
> 
> Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk


Should be fine. I was doing some research and people were using 8.8 bolts for the three motor mount bracket to block bolts. Those bolts carry much more weight than the block/trans bolts.


----------



## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Maybe I'm missing something lol.

What are the 10.9s being used for?

Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Dave926 said:


> Maybe I'm missing something lol.
> 
> What are the 10.9s being used for?
> 
> Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk


Bolting the trans to the block.


----------



## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

God i feel stupid.

Thought they were being used for flywheel bolts.


----------



## lewp91 (May 9, 2011)

.Ant said:


> Bolting the trans to the block.


what spec bolts were used for the clutch to flywheel?

edit: i too thought you were referring to the clutch to flywheel bolts but dave posted as i was posting


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Dave926 said:


> God i feel stupid.
> 
> Thought they were being used for flywheel bolts.


Omg that would be bad. :laugh:




lewp91 said:


> what spec bolts were used for the clutch to flywheel?


Don't know. Whatever was provided in the kit from four seasons.


----------



## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Most likely oem ones, they should be fine as long as you don't shock the clutch.



Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Got my motor in and car loaded onto the trailer tonight. Minimal issues which was great. Thanks alot to Carl for the help.


















Turbo fits, but has minimal room.


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Dropped the car off this afternoon to Haggard. Once I get it back I'm gonna get the car running before I pull the motor again and finish up the interior wiring, body work, and brakes.

And a better picture.









Haggard will be making the downpipe, turbo to intercooler pipe, and intercooler to tb pipe. Everything stainless. 3" downpipe and 2.5" intercooler piping.


----------



## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

.Ant said:


> Turbo fits, but has minimal room.


I am surprised you have any room! I tried the treadstone manifold with a GT3076R a few years ago and we couldn't clock the comp cover without removing it.
:thumbup: for getting it done.


----------



## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

Love it!

I'm getting my MK1 BT TDI together soon. We must have a friendly race once our cars are running


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

INA said:


> I am surprised you have any room! I tried the treadstone manifold with a GT3076R a few years ago and we couldn't clock the comp cover without removing it.
> :thumbup: for getting it done.


I was a bit nervy about the fitment. I was ready to hammer in the firewall if need be, however I'm stoked that I did not have to.



[email protected] Performance said:


> Love it!
> 
> I'm getting my MK1 BT TDI together soon. We must have a friendly race once our cars are running


:laugh: Maybe I should put the 1.8t in my rabbit and then we can race. 

I guess I should be sending my ECU to you sooner than later.


----------



## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

.Ant said:


> I was a bit nervy about the fitment. I was ready to hammer in the firewall if need be, however I'm stoked that I did not have to.


Hats off to you anyway. You proved something that has been doubtful for sometime because the Treadstone manifold IS a good manifold.


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

INA said:


> Hats off to you anyway. You proved something that has been doubtful for sometime because the Treadstone manifold IS a good manifold.


Well thank you. The manifold could be a bit better though. The casting was a bit too large and had to be grinded down to fit. Secondly, the wg port was designed horribly. It's placement faces the wastegate outlet towards the turbo or valve cover. You have to buy their 90 degree adapter to make it work. You shouldn't have to buy additional parts to accommodate poor design. That was the whole reason I went with the mvs and had a vband welded to the wg port.


----------



## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

.Ant said:


> You shouldn't have to buy additional parts to accommodate poor design. That was the whole reason I went with the mvs and had a vband welded to the wg port.


This :thumbup: 

It'd be cool if it came full vband...however, I wonder if that would inflate the turbo/firewall clearance issues. The male vband flange seems to push things out a bit. Any particular reason why you didn't have a turbine vband flange added?


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

suffocatemymind said:


> This :thumbup:
> 
> It'd be cool if it came full vband...however, I wonder if that would inflate the turbo/firewall clearance issues. The male vband flange seems to push things out a bit. Any particular reason why you didn't have a turbine vband flange added?


turbine vband flange? Are you referring to manifold to turbo or turbo to exhaust? Original plan was to have a vbanded turbo to exhaust, however Arnold misunderstood me when I ordered off him. Once I got it I did not feel like making an issue out of it.


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## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

Manifold to turbine housing, sorry


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

suffocatemymind said:


> Manifold to turbine housing, sorry


It certainly would have created more fitment issues than I wanted.


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)




----------



## Rumpelstilzchen (Oct 24, 2009)

Looking good:beer:


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

.Ant said:


> :laugh: Maybe I should put the 1.8t in my rabbit and then we can race.
> 
> I guess I should be sending my ECU to you sooner than later.


Well played :laugh::thumbup:

Send that ish in whenever son :beer:


----------



## joeydee (Jul 14, 2012)

Ant can you bring this beauty to waterfest or a show n go this year so i can take poopy pictures of it


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Rumpelstilzchen said:


> Looking good:beer:


Thanks:beer:



[email protected] Performance said:


> Well played :laugh::thumbup:
> 
> Send that ish in whenever son :beer:


Going out tomorrow, hopefully. :heart:



joeydee said:


> Ant can you bring this beauty to waterfest or a show n go this year so i can take poopy pictures of it


I'll probably go to WF. Probably not show n go.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

And some more


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Picked up my car today!


----------



## MNShortBus (Mar 14, 2008)

:thumbup::thumbup: Loving the way this is coming all together.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

MNShortBus said:


> :thumbup::thumbup: Loving the way this is coming all together.


Hell yeah dude! I couldn't be happier with Haggard's work.


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## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

:thumbup:


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

[email protected] said:


> :thumbup:


:wave:


*Text for orders and customer support 24/7 908-259-4860*


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

Did you give him your core support for mock up? It doesn't look like the charge piping will clear the passenger headlight. Even the forge silicone OEM replacement pipe gets squashed going through that opening.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> :thumbup:


:heart: Thanks for taking care of me dude. Stoked to see where this turbo brings me.



Pat @ Pitt Soundworks said:


> Did you give him your core support for mock up? It doesn't look like the charge piping will clear the passenger headlight. Even the forge silicone OEM replacement pipe gets squashed going through that opening.


Sht.... Good call. I will have to see if it works. If it doesn't Haggard is only down the street.


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## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

Sorry if this has been covered already, but what IC are you using?


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

suffocatemymind said:


> Sorry if this has been covered already, but what IC are you using?


He is running the Powrhaus one :thumbup::thumbup:


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## gitman (May 13, 2004)

will be interested to see some numbers posted up with that SMIC. i'm torn between the pwrhaus unit, and the eurojet or the tyrolsport.


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

gitman said:


> will be interested to see some numbers posted up with that SMIC. i'm torn between the pwrhaus unit, and the eurojet or the tyrolsport.


Tyrolsport would be my recommendation; provided they still sell them. I was on mikes website recently, and didn't see them listed  


*Text for orders and customer support 24/7 908-259-4860*


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

IMO the Powerhaus looks like a copy of the eurojet, however that is just speculation. I visually compared them when I made my purchase and they looked identical. Hence why I went with the cheaper of the two. 

I'm not a fan of the tyrol because of its size. It doesn't seem low car friendly. Overall I would bet its performance is the greatest. 

The Powerhaus smic is rated for 320hp. I'm gonna be very much pushing it over the limit. Should be interesting. Fmic is not an option for my setup.


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

.Ant said:


> IMO the Powerhaus looks like a copy of the eurojet, however that is just speculation. I visually compared them when I made my purchase and they looked identical. Hence why I went with the cheaper of the two.
> 
> I'm not a fan of the tyrol because of its size. It doesn't seem low car friendly. Overall I would bet its performance is the greatest.
> 
> The Powerhaus smic is rated for 320hp. I'm gonna be very much pushing it over the limit. Should be interesting. Fmic is not an option for my setup.


You'll be fine Ant.. I highly doubt you'll be consistently heat soaking that thing; as I can't see you squeezing the gas continuously, and repeatedly. Even so, a water/meth setup can be easily hidden, and be there for when you really want to hammer the hell out of it.

You'll still make max power; though not pull after pull. 


*Text for orders and customer support 24/7 908-259-4860*


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## 20v_boost (Jan 29, 2002)

Why is a FMIC not an option?


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

20v_boost said:


> Why is a FMIC not an option?


He's trying to keep the system as invisible, and minimalist as possible. FMIC piping snaking all over the bay is not an option with this build. 

He COULD do a fmic with inlet/outlet on the passenger side, but I think Ant will be fine as is for quite a while. He's not intending on pounding the car, and I'm sure it will be just fine for the occasional full power squeeze on the hot pedal. 


*Text for orders and customer support 24/7 908-259-4860*


----------



## RodgertheRabit II (Sep 13, 2012)

[email protected] Performance said:


> He's trying to keep the system as invisible, and minimalist as possible. FMIC piping snaking all over the bay is not an option with this build.


I dont really see any piping in my FMIC set up... Its all a matter of how you do it.

That said, a good SMIC and w/m should keep temps under control if it doesn't get terribly hot where you are:thumbup:


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Actually, the euro bumper is the issue. The bumper is so tight, it rested on the ac condenser. I would need to space the rad back to fit a fmic.

And I love the super short piping.


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## RodgertheRabit II (Sep 13, 2012)

Ah Makes sense! I was thinking about picking up a eurobumper but I figured it wouldnt fit over my Eurojet Race core.

Short piping is awesome, and yours is by far the shortest Ive seen thats not a AWIC.:thumbup: IF I didnt drive the way I do down here in the "south" I wouldnt mind that route:wave::beer:


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

piping looks great!


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## TyrolSport (Mar 4, 1999)

[email protected] Performance said:


> Tyrolsport would be my recommendation; provided they still sell them. I was on mikes website recently, and didn't see them listed
> 
> 
> *Text for orders and customer support 24/7 908-259-4860*



Our SMICs are always available. http://www.tyrolsport.com/index.php?p=page&page_id=smic_detail

It's still my baby after all these years.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Looking to buy an 02j LSD for the right price if anyone knows of any. :thumbup:


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

So a little update. 

Ecu is in gonzo's hands. I've decided to go back to using my n75. I will just have to extend the harness. Nothing to worry some. 

Gonna run two programs. Low and high boost. 30lbs for high. 

Also ordered a new 02j peloquin. Stoked about that. I was a bit worried about the strength of the trans.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

I would be more worried about the strength of the gears not the diff


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Are the gears really that concerning? I've read mixed things about them.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

.Ant said:


> Are the gears really that concerning? I've read mixed things about them.


yeah especially 3rd. Most big power guys look into upgraded gears from APtuning. By that time you might as well have done an 02M swap


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Is cryno treating a cost effective option? Don't know about the cost but thats always an option to make the gears stronger?


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

MechEngg said:


> Is cryno treating a cost effective option? Don't know about the cost but thats always an option to make the gears stronger?


I wouldnt waste my money cryo treating stock gears.


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## carlhuebner (Jan 10, 2010)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> yeah especially 3rd. Most big power guys look into upgraded gears from APtuning. By that time you might as well have done an 02M swap


Listen to the man. Buy my O2M swap 😉


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Haven't posted in a while. Motor has started. Waiting for things to come back from powder so I can finish up. Hoping to be driving it next weekend.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Lookin good man


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## vwturbowolf (Nov 28, 2003)

:thumbup: :thumbup:


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Drove the car. Couple things I need to attend to. Not 100% yet. 

_MG_0337 by Ant Parmenter, on Flickr
_MG_0336 by Ant Parmenter, on Flickr


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Corn status=E85? 

Ripper vids should've already been posted


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Dave926 said:


> Corn status=E85?
> 
> Ripper vids should've already been posted


Nope. E85 is not available in NJ. There's no more than 2 gas stations in the state that offer it. Would be pretty cool to have it though. 

Corn Status is a car group. 

As for ripper videos, I have to tweak some things to get 100%. I believe I'm a tooth off timing and I need to get a better vac source to my vacuum manifold. Then I'll daily her for a week to break in the clutch and go from there.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Block 90 something will confirm. 93 sounds correct but not 100%


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## L.I.VW13 (Apr 9, 2006)

Where did you source that hardware for the fender and firewall?


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Dave926 said:


> Block 90 something will confirm. 93 sounds correct but not 100%


Are you sure about that? I read a Ross tech post that you couldn't do that with the 1.8t. Seems possible with a tdi though. It would be nice to be able to do it. :thumbup:



L.I.VW13 said:


> Where did you source that hardware for the fender and firewall?


McMaster Carr.

The firewall bolts are m8. Fender had to be tapped to an SAE size. I forget what size. I may have it in my mk4 build thread. Rad core are m6. You can use metric finishing washers with SAE so you can mix and match the fender, rad support and valve cover washers.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

*FV-QR*

So I checked timing and cam and crank marks were spot on. I pulled my valve cover to check the cam chain. I've counted a couple times and believe that I do have the proper 16 rollers, however I'm not so certain about it.


















To me it seems correct unless someone has a better eye than me. I'm entertaining the idea that the hall sensor or wiring is bad. Or perhaps there is a difference between VVT and nonVVT hall sensors?


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Shouldn't your vacuum source be tapped off of somewhere on the engine side of the throttle body? I understand that it will work "ok" if it is on the turbo or IC piping but when you are on boost then let off the throttle and the throttle body plate closes most of the way there is a higher vacuum after the throttle body then before and might be messing with the discharge of your BOV/discharging back through the turbo or something.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Looked further into my issue and I now believe that it is wiring. My codes are point towards the hall sensor and MAP. They have common wires which may be the cause. Furhermore, while thinking about it, the car was having cranking issues. I had a very similiar issue when I put my car back together last year. 

So the MAP/Hall wires have continuaty with the ECU however their resistance is .05 for both of the shared wires. That seems high to me and I am considering running new wire to each plug.



MechEngg said:


> Shouldn't your vacuum source be tapped off of somewhere on the engine side of the throttle body? I understand that it will work "ok" if it is on the turbo or IC piping but when you are on boost then let off the throttle and the throttle body plate closes most of the way there is a higher vacuum after the throttle body then before and might be messing with the discharge of your BOV/discharging back through the turbo or something.


Exactly. I was hoping that I would be able to get away with the vacuum in the IC piping. I did not want to run a vac line from the front to the back.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/m_blocks/090-098.html

For gas engines


Vacuum for the BOV needs to be after the throttle body, no exception. Before the throttle body it will never see the vacuum it needs to open.

Wastegate is a different story. Pressure only


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## MNShortBus (Mar 14, 2008)

So your only code is low voltage to the MAP?


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Dave926 said:


> http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/m_blocks/090-098.html
> 
> For gas engines
> 
> ...


Yeah. That's not what I was hoping for the shaved bay portion of my build.



MNShortBus said:


> So your only code is low voltage to the MAP?


Oh no. :laugh:



> 6 Faults Found:
> 16622 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31)
> P0238 - 35-00 - Signal too High
> 18057 - Powertrain Data Bus
> ...


Three of the codes I think correlate.

The other three are fairly obvious. Too much fuel (potential leak), No ABS (deleted), and no rear o2 (havent grabbed one to plug in yet).


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

*FV-QR*

Actually now that I think of it, the 17748 code is from when I forgot to tighten the oil feed line. It spit oil everywhere which made the ecu think theres low oil pressure.


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## carlhuebner (Jan 10, 2010)

I thought gonzo tuned out your rear O2 sensor? Why do you have a code?


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

carlhuebner said:


> I thought gonzo tuned out your rear O2 sensor? Why do you have a code?


This time around I kept it. Jeff insisted I keep it for this tune. Not gonna be plugged in though. I have the plug somewhere under my dash.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

I'm curious about the second 02 as well.

Maybe Jeff or Gonzo could chime in with a technical reason?


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Drove the car to work today. It likes to stall out when I press in the clutch. I'm imagining that could be a leak. 

I redid the vac system and my brakes and bov are better. Bov still has some flutter at low boost but sounds normal at higher boost. 




Dave926 said:


> I'm curious about the second 02 as well.
> 
> Maybe Jeff or Gonzo could chime in with a technical reason?


I think it was just a matter of "it's better to have and not need than need and not have". I was going to completely depin the harness from the ecu.


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## rmekita (Jun 29, 2009)

how did you end up routing the cooling system :thumbup:


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

rmekita said:


> how did you end up routing the cooling system :thumbup:


Coolant feed fed from the regular spot. Fed the return to the water pipe where the heater core use to be. 3/8 hardlines with -6 fittings.


----------



## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

Dave926 said:


> I'm curious about the second 02 as well.
> 
> Maybe Jeff or Gonzo could chime in with a technical reason?


Emissions.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Pressure tested up to 25 psi. Overall everything leaked. Biggest leak was my intake mani then the bov. 

The intake mani was so bad it had me convinced I forgot to install the gasket. Pulled it off and it was there. Lightly coated with rtv and no leaks. 

I will have to replace the injector cups. They are leaking but not until 25psi and not that bad.


----------



## MNShortBus (Mar 14, 2008)

.Ant said:


> Oh no. :laugh:


I think the wire shared between the cam sensor and MAP sensor is the 5v supply? 

Also, I've seen bad MAP sensors throw the signal too high code.


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

MNShortBus said:


> I think the wire shared between the cam sensor and MAP sensor is the 5v supply?
> 
> Also, I've seen bad MAP sensors throw the signal too high code.


Map, cam , ect, crank all share a wire. Map and cam share two wires. I might as well tattoo that wiring diagram.

Map sensor is probably good. It's has no more than 5k on it. But I do have two other maps to test.


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

*FV-QR*

My buddy surprised me by dropping of my wheel today. :thumbup:
So I took a test drive.






Tune was at 15lbs. Car feels great. Idle is right where it is supposed to be. Now the fuel just needs to adapt. Between gears is rocky without the adaption.

GOPR0009 by Ant Parmenter, on Flickr


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## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

How's the spool?


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

suffocatemymind said:


> How's the spool?


Pretty quick. Starts to build at a bit under 3k an climbs fairly quick. I've been working out minor issues with the motor since it's been running so I haven't driven enough to provide a detailed answer. It definitely hits 15lbs quick though. 

I wanna switch my tune and test 30lbs but I can't get the tune to switch.  Probably for the better anyway. I should break everything in more.


----------



## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

Sweet :thumbup: this is with the N75 only, right?


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

That is correct.


----------



## ant_718 (Mar 15, 2014)

Awesome build, love everything! :thumbup:


----------



## dane. (Nov 16, 2007)

.Ant said:


> Pretty quick. Starts to build at a bit under 3k an climbs fairly quick. I've been working out minor issues with the motor since it's been running so I haven't driven enough to provide a detailed answer. It definitely hits 15lbs quick though.
> 
> I wanna switch my tune and test 30lbs but I can't get the tune to switch.  Probably for the better anyway. I should break everything in more.


30lbs on 93 is knock city central. Just be careful. It will haul ass surely though.


----------



## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

dane. said:


> 30lbs on 93 is knock city central. Just be careful. It will haul ass surely though.


I wouldn't even bother with 30 pounds of boost on 93 octane, probably have no timing advance what so ever when knock removes it all...


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Yeah. We will see what happens. If I have to tune it down so be it. Jeff was really pushing me to do w/m but is rather not have those lines throughout my bay.


----------



## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Your bay is really clean and don't blame you but I can say water meth helps a ton. My car at 31psi is able to have 12 degrees advance in the upper rpms with very little corrections


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

One-Eight GTI said:


> Your bay is really clean and don't blame you but I can say water meth helps a ton. My car at 31psi is able to have 12 degrees advance in the upper rpms with very little corrections


Yeah. I use to have a devils own kit and it was nice even at the k03 level. I would love to have it but it would have to appease my aesthetics.


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

if you do individual port meth under the manifold(i will eventually do it as well), you could easily hide it all and have the advantage of it. i would tune for 30psi no meth. then add the meth. tuning for meth is a dedicated track car thing to me...anyone can say they keep on top..but i've come to running out before on a single night of playing with the big boys around here..when i'm spending a lot of time at WOT. especially when playing with GTR's, turbo M3's, boosted vipers and vettes and such. it's easy to run out and blow your **** up lol.

bay is beautiful. 
i really need to send my turbo to arnold for the V2 wheel. i see positive pressure at 2k as well..but i doesn't come alive until 2800 then bam. 3500 it's 20+ and all hell breaks loose. you'd be surprised how much insanely faster 25psi versus 15 and how much more grip you have at 25 versus 30 lol


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

I would definitely do an individual port setup. I know I would make lines work under the manifold. I'm more concerned about the pump and reservoir placement.


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

in the trunk. tons of people do it. you can easily hide it. i would suggest the 5gallon reservoir though. i have the one gallon..it can go very fast and i'm only running a 125cc nozzle(snow perf stg2). i have on set at 15psi full at 20psi. i'd have full later if i could but thats as high as it goes lol


----------



## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

I have mine in the trunk. Arnold just shipped my aem failsafe so there are things you can do so you can safely use water meth all the time. But Chris is correct it disappears quickly so I would recommend a bigger reservoir also if you do get a kit


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

There's no pump issues with it being so far away?

But also having it in my trunk would be a stretch. I don't have much room back there. Maybe I could put it in the wheel well.


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

nope. 4 years with it in the trunk, make sure you get the proper solenoid to prevent it from being syphoned when in vacuum and you'll be good to go. oh and distilled water only.. tap can be hard or soft and will clog the pump and the nozzle,etc. i run 50/50. great for cooling and octane boost. both incredibly beneficial. and i run 30psi daily with 90+ temps year round


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Finally thought I had my car running great. Drove it to work and could tell I had a vac leak. 

Pressure tested the motor and found that the n75 is leaking out the atmosphere port. So I'm guess that it's toast now and that I'm in the market for a boost controller. Don't know if I should really keep on with the n75 after it failed in less than 500 miles. 

So I'm considering going back to a manual setup. I had my eye on the ie manual controller. Is it worth being almost double than the turbosmart mbc?


Edit: looks like IE doesn't even offer them anymore. Much have been a great product. 



Vegeta Gti said:


> nope. 4 years with it in the trunk, make sure you get the proper solenoid to prevent it from being syphoned when in vacuum and you'll be good to go. oh and distilled water only.. tap can be hard or soft and will clog the pump and the nozzle,etc. i run 50/50. great for cooling and octane boost. both incredibly beneficial. and i run 30psi daily with 90+ temps year round


I guess I'll have to eventually test the waters with one. Budget won't allow it now, but perhaps later this year.


----------



## dane. (Nov 16, 2007)

.Ant said:


> So I'm considering going back to a manual setup. I had my eye on the ie manual controller. Is it worth being almost double than the turbosmart mbc?


IE's controller is junk. Used it on my car tune for 27 PSI and it would not hold pressure.

Switched to a Hallman and never looked back.


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

So I ended up just getting another turbosmart mbc. Spool feels a bit better with it in lieu of the n75. 

Pressure tested my motor and found that my injectors were leaking. I had to take off the fuel rail and grind the posts down. Now it's holding boost fine again. 

Drove at 18psi. I was nothing but smiles. 



dane. said:


> IE's controller is junk. Used it on my car tune for 27 PSI and it would not hold pressure.
> 
> Switched to a Hallman and never looked back.


Thanks for the info. They must have discontinued it for that reason. :laugh:


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

So in the past weeks I parked the car again to do a couple things. Retuned the car for a 4bar map and made a new engine harness. My previous harness was abused too much and had way too many solder joints for my liking. 

So I got everything back together today and I'm still plagued with the same three codes. (Yes I cleared before I checked)

16622 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31) 
P0238 - 35-00 - Signal too High
16490 - Manifold / Barometric Pressure Sensor (G71) / (F96) 
P0106 - 35-00 - Implausible Signal
17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28) 
P1340 - 35-00 - Incor. Correlation

Before I considered my problem to be a faulty MAP sensor or wiring. Both have been replaced. However I am under the assumption that the cam sensor may have something to do with it. My timing is good. (Although I am going to triple check)

So my question is... Could a bad cam sensor throw a bad MAP code? (They do share common wires)


And a picture
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/14658090057" title="Untitled by Ant Parmenter, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3853/14658090057_58945b9182.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Untitled"></a>
Plan is to test the MAP sensor pins tomorrow.


----------



## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

Might be your ECU?


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

[email protected] Performance said:


> Might be your ECU?


I was considering that. I wanna try my ecu on another 1.8t and see if the code immediately pops up.


----------



## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

Why not drive your car down here and we can swap ECU's on the fly


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

[email protected] Performance said:


> Why not drive your car down here and we can swap ECU's on the fly


That is not a bad idea. The weather is gonna be sht for the next two days and then I wont have off until the 22nd. So if I dont figure it out by then I'm gonna hit you up.


----------



## Charles Devine (Aug 22, 2007)

Thanks for the amazing build Ant. it was much easier to read than going through your build thread just for the fact this forum is slower. I have no way to help you with any of the codes, but I can say I love the new harness you made, and all the hard work that went into this.

-Charles


----------



## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Had a rather shty day with the car. Went to a buddies house so he could be a second set of eyes to verify timing. Turned out cam timing was off. By the end of the day we pulled the cams twice, timed the crank a half dozen times, and now the car doesn't run. 

You know when everything lines up, you crank it, then magicly something is out of time? Yeah that happened today, a lot. 

We lost interest and called it a day. I believe the cams. Just gotta be a matter of slowing putting everything back together and double checking everything. 

Spinning the crank I can feel compression so I'm still good. 



Charles Devine said:


> Thanks for the amazing build Ant. it was much easier to read than going through your build thread just for the fact this forum is slower. I have no way to help you with any of the codes, but I can say I love the new harness you made, and all the hard work that went into this.
> 
> -Charles


Thanks for the love man. It's very much appreciated. :beer:

I love when friends ask me for information and I point them into my build thread knowingly it's too large to find any information. Makes me giggle.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Ill agree with that whole timing belt ****.

Always takes me 6-7 times to get the belt right. I prefer to do it with the plugs out so theres no confusion between smashing valves and compression. Maybe as a suggestion, once the belt is on turn the crank just enough to put tension the front side of the belt and see if the marks line up still.


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

You won't bend the valves while turning the motor by hand. Maybe even by starter. Talking from experience.

Are you manual tensioner?


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Dave926 said:


> Ill agree with that whole timing belt ****.
> 
> Always takes me 6-7 times to get the belt right. I prefer to do it with the plugs out so theres no confusion between smashing valves and compression. Maybe as a suggestion, once the belt is on turn the crank just enough to put tension the front side of the belt and see if the marks line up still.


Yeah I'm probably gonna end up taking the plugs out and doing it that way. We were checking timing marks before and after tensioning the belt. I think our exhaustion and lack of patience was getting the best of us. I have the car back in my garage now and the tear down will begin next weekend. Now I can slowly retime everything without worry.



[email protected] Performance said:


> You won't bend the valves while turning the motor by hand. Maybe even by starter. Talking from experience.
> 
> Are you manual tensioner?


Yep manual tensioner.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

As I suspected a cam was off. Intake cam to be specific. In hindsight we may have timed the cams, but forgot to count the 16 links.

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/14945670451" title="Untitled by Ant Parmenter, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5589/14945670451_b0c6de3a0d.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="Untitled"></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/14762151178" title="Untitled by Ant Parmenter, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3871/14762151178_fe1b731508.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Untitled"></a>

And this is how the motor will stay until I get the chain tensioner tool.


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## Charles Devine (Aug 22, 2007)

.Ant said:


> As I suspected a cam was off. Intake cam to be specific. In hindsight we may have timed the cams, but forgot to count the 16 links.
> 
> ic:
> ic:
> ...


Well I'm for one, and I know you are for two very glad it didn't wind up becoming something major and engine ending. :thumbup:

-Charles


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Ant if you can get another pair of hands to help compress the tensioner by hand, while installing the cams you wont need the tool.

Also a good excuse to maybe upgrade them while your in there lol.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Charles Devine said:


> Well I'm for one, and I know you are for two very glad it didn't wind up becoming something major and engine ending. :thumbup:
> 
> -Charles


Yeah. Smashing valves would have sucked. :laugh:



Dave926 said:


> Ant if you can get another pair of hands to help compress the tensioner by hand, while installing the cams you wont need the tool.
> 
> Also a good excuse to maybe upgrade them while your in there lol.


Tool should be at my house before I even have the time to work on the car. So it kind works out. 

I've given thought about upgrading cams, but the funding isn't there. Trying to use my extra money to start powdercoating. If I can get that moving, I may be able to actually afford parts again. As of right now I have everything to start doing small stuff. End goal is to build an oven that will fit a complete set of wheels.


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## carlhuebner (Jan 10, 2010)

.Ant said:


> End goal is to build an oven that will fit a complete set of wheels.


If your oven is comparable size to Lucas' inside I was able to just hardly fit my 17x8" barrels in it.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Car is back up and running. Took my time and double checked everything, started first try.

Now I just need to run out to Ace Hardware and get some bolts for my accessory tensioner. That somehow got left behind at my friends house. 



carlhuebner said:


> If your oven is comparable size to Lucas' inside I was able to just hardly fit my 17x8" barrels in it.


Mine may be smaller than Lucas's. I dunno. A barrel may not fit.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Turned out that my agn cover timing mark was off. Used the notches on the cams to get the head to tdc and no more timing codes. 

Now I have to figure out why my map output wire is reading 5v.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Turned out my MAP plug was wrong. Pins 3&4 were switched. 

However I am still getting 5V to the output wire. Verified that it went to the correct ecu pin.

And now the car will not start. Just cranks and doesn't try to start.


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## 20v_boost (Jan 29, 2002)

Maybe you fried the sensor when the wires were crossed?


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

20v_boost said:


> Maybe you fried the sensor when the wires were crossed?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The output wire is getting 5.5v from the ecu. I'm starting to suspect that the ecu is bad.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

Did you already replaced the ecu or just the harness?


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Pat @ Pitt Soundworks said:


> Did you already replaced the ecu or just the harness?


Just the harness and map sensor.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

Yep, if pinout is correct and 5v ref and sensor ground are good, and you have 5v on the sensor return line with the sensor unhooked, its time to swap ecus.

An anecdote on the side, I had a buddy just blow his aem ems because he had a couple wires crossed and ended up sending 5v ref to sensor ground on two sensors, and a two-wire IAC wired backwards


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Pat @ Pitt Soundworks said:


> Yep, if pinout is correct and 5v ref and sensor ground are good, and you have 5v on the sensor return line with the sensor unhooked, its time to swap ecus./QUOTE]
> 
> Yeah I triple checked my pin out so I "should" be good. I was able to pick up an ecu at my junk yard. Gonna slap that on and see if it still sends 5.5v to the pin. Obviously won't turn on due to immo & stock tune. Good starting point though before I waste my time sending it out to be tuned.
> 
> ...


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Now pin 4 is getting 3.5v from the ecu. 

Is my understanding that the pin should read 0 when it's unplugged from the map, correct?

Edit: just went troubleshooting crazy and the output wire has no connection to any other wire therefore it must be getting the voltage from the ecu.

Edit 2: Carl came over and I tested his ecu. 0v 
Cleared the codes out of my junkyard ecu and got 0v with that one. 
So I guess I just need to get it tuned now.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Does anyone know of anyone who sells 1.8t to VR throttle body adapters other than 034?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

.Ant said:


> Does anyone know of anyone who sells 1.8t to VR throttle body adapters other than 034?


IE has a bunch of adapters. So does SEM.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

groggory said:


> IE has a bunch of adapters. So does SEM.


Thanks for the suggestions. However ie only has adapters 80mm tbs and sem only has for 80mm intake manifolds. :laugh:


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Lots of 60 to 70 adapters... Not many 60 to 65's


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

.Ant said:


> Does anyone know of anyone who sells 1.8t to VR throttle body adapters


What is the primary bolt pattern and what is the throttle body part # / foot print?

The SEM adapter plates that we make are:
80 x 80 primary to 75 x 75 / 70 x 70 / 65 x 65 w/ 75mm opening
you can use a 65mm throttle body from a 2.8 VR6 on this plate for e.g.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

^looks like I may have a winner. :beer:


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Are there any intake/exhaust/turbo gaskets better than others? I used mostly oem last year and they didn't seal too well. 

I'm not sure if I wanna diy deck my flanges or bring them to a machine shop. I'm thinking diy would be fine since A gasket would fill the voids.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

Have them professionally flattened.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

Pat @ Pitt Soundworks said:


> Have them professionally flattened.


:thumbup: Then I shall do that. Thanks.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

It’s been a couple years since I’ve updated here. 

Nothing really has changed with the motor until this winter. So what’s new...

I rebuilt the head with supertech springs and retainers, new vvt selenoid and chain, and cat 3652 cams. 










That was supposed to be my big upgrade for the winter, however a TT225 fell into my lap so now my car is AWD. 










Swap isn’t completely done yet. The pan and 99% of the mechanical parts are done. Now working on finishing the wiring and fixing all the systems that have been affected by the swap (brakes, airride, fueling etc)


That portion of the build is in my mk4 forum build thread. 


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## ticketed2much (Feb 18, 2012)

Do you still have stock valves? I have a set of supertech springs but wasn’t sure if it was a good idea to use them on stock valves.


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

ticketed2much said:


> Do you still have stock valves? I have a set of supertech springs but wasn’t sure if it was a good idea to use them on stock valves.


I have supertech exhaust valves and stock intake valves. 


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