# Marvel Mystery oil/Hyper Lube mixture- Dangerous?



## CharlieV (Aug 27, 2019)

Hello, I'm looking for your guys' thoughts on my situation before I go any further.

*Changed over to synthetic with a couple additives (MMO and Orange Hyper-Lube and now I have a valve tick.* :banghead:

I drained the oil/filter in my newest project ('86 Jetta 1.8l 8v) shortly after the 28 mile trip home, as it was looking fairly dark on the dipstick. The following morning I pulled valve cover to see what I was dealing with, saw a significant amount of sludge, but all valves were within specified clearances. Next I installed an eco-guard filter and filled with 5w-30 Mobil1 High Mileage Full Synth, replacing 10% capcity with Marvel Mystery Oil and 10% capacity with Orange Hyper-Lube (thinking it would help counterbalance decrease viscosity). I did splash about 20% of this MMO over the valves. After oil change I started her up and everything sounded normal. Shut it off after 5-8 mins and then it sat for 8-9 days. This afternoon I started it up and instantly noticed a tick from under the valve cover. After 3 minutes of hopefully waiting for it to fade, I shut off the engine. 

Two possible issues at hand: oil thinned out too much and/or too much sludge was dissolved- clogging the oil pump and galleys. The latter doesn't sound as likely as the oil/detergent only circulated for several minutes.

My gut tells me to replace with just 5w-30 but I'm looking for others' opinions.

Any and all input will be greatly appreciated
Thanks in advance.

-Charlie


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## Greasymechtech (Jul 20, 2019)

Don't mix additives.

If you want to use Marvel, simply step up a grade or two in oil viscosity. 

If you want to thicken an oil, than Hyperlube is right up there with Lucas or STP... 

Ecoguard filter is the 1st thin that I would change. Replace the filter 1st. 

If the problem doesn't go away, then drop the oil pan.


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## CharlieV (Aug 27, 2019)

Thanks for the quick advice. I'll get a new one in asap and post back with my results. Hopefully I haven't opened a cam of worms.


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## CharlieV (Aug 27, 2019)

@GreasyMechTech Any tips for changing a filter with oil still in engine, other than quickly?


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## Greasymechtech (Jul 20, 2019)

CharlieV said:


> @GreasyMechTech Any tips for changing a filter with oil still in engine, other than quickly?


As long as engine is off, doesn't make a difference concerning filter change. The oil filter is NOT the oil pan drain plug. Just remove the old one, let it drop into a pan, and install a prefilled new one.


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## tagsvags (Nov 25, 2005)

I would never put anything in my oil pan but an approved VW oil. 

If your car calls for 502.00 5W40 use that only.


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## Butcher (Jan 31, 2001)

This is the best advice here. Use and OEM filter too. I prefer MANN.

What makes you think that adding a mixture of snake oil will make the engine lubricate better? Spend more time in the owners manual vs the internet.


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## jackalopephoto (Jul 5, 2015)

Why do people use these snake oil (literally) products?


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## GTI's (Nov 27, 2011)

MK2 oil spec

10w-30 is acceptable in certain condition but I have always used 10w-40 or higher. I have use MMO when I first got the car from the first owner and it had lifter tick after running it for one or two oil changes it resolved the issue and has never come back.


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## goodvibes (Sep 7, 2019)

He's got a sludged '86. He can use whatever he wants. Issue may be as stated earlier in that he used 2 additives but likely doing some cleaning only revealed an issue that may still clean up. If I were him I do a drain and another fill with Marvel only added. He probably did not have created the issue here and cleaning revealed it but then again, using 2 additives may have been an error. I'd go with the recommendation of a 40w and more Marvel until it seems better.


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## Muldermutt (May 15, 2015)

You opened up a can of worms simply bringing this car home. I have never seen sludge in one of these since beginning driving these in 1979. And, yes, I have parted out many junkers and abandoned Mk. II's and STILL never seen sludge in one. Wow.

I would say that the additive concoction has loosened up the "chunks" and now the hyd. lifters (it is a 1986) are clogging and not pumping up. Your scenario will be one of a puppy chasing his own tail for, perhaps, ever. The only true solution will be to totally disassemble the wretched engine and "tank" the block and head (while totally disassembled). And, VIOLENTLY flush the galleys at length.

Myself, if I allowed myself to be in this situation, I would run half a quart of dexron atf with some cheapo 10/40 or 10/40 slash 20/50 mix multiple times with short drain intervals.

If this engine is THIS crapped-up, damage will be very evident in the crank and conn rod bearing shells. Hell, the thrusts are probably milled flat as well. 

Finding a "better" 1.8 cis l or cis-e engine may be quite easy. Or, become a mechanic with this one.....yerr choice.

Edit: another issue is that the pressure-relief piston in the bottom of the oil pump will soon partially or totally stick in one direction OR the other. All this crap will erode the cylindrical slot the piston continually slides (VERY dynamic) in and at some point seize with chunklets interspersed.

This is an engine which should be mounted on a post and run at full throttle until it breaks at a Bug-In somewhere. All the while wagering bets on how many minutes it will run.


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