# 1982 Audi GT Coupe



## CanadianTurbo (May 9, 2001)

Say if I could pick this up for under $2,000 Canadian ($1250 US) would this be a good winter car to supplement my new GTI (See sig) it was an American car w/ 107,000 miles, all I know now.
Thanks


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

*Re: 1982 Audi GT Coupe (CanadianTurbo)*

Welcome to the world of the "Type 85" Audi Coupe GT (based on the B2 platform). Yeah, it's not going to be the fastest thing around, but it will be fun. That 2.2 ltr inline 5 cylinder engine has GREAT low end torque. My 1987 CGT "Special Build" has the 2.3 ltr high compression "NG" engine which makes 130 hp, but has less low end torque. The CGT was voted as one of the best handling cars in America back in its day. It really handles better than almost anything else from the mid 80s, very tossable, lots of fun.
Mileage really matters little to the engine or transmission. There are plenty of 2.2s with well over 200,000 mile on them that still run like new and have never had major work done. But oil changes are very important to the car. If the oil
isn't changed on time (3,000 miles, always use either a Mann, Bosch, or Audi OEM filter) the hydraulic lifters will tick like crazy. This is caused by lower oil pressure than is needed to fully pump up the lifters. Lifter tick is
considered normal for up to about a minute after start-up. The clutch
should, if not abused, be good until almost 200,000 miles. The tranie itself
has Audi 5000 internals and is known for being next to indestructible.
Overall the drive train is pretty much bulletproof on the CGT.
A loppy/unstable idle is also an common issue with these cars. It is usually
caused by a faulty "Idle Stabilizer Valve." But the good news is that many
times, the valve isn't bad, it's just really dirty and so gummed up it
cannot open/close fast enough to control the idle properly. The valve gets
gummed up because of its exposure to exhaust gasses looped back by the EGR. It's easy to clean, you just pop it out, spray it down with LOTS of throttle body cleaner (like fill it with the cleaner), scrub it out a bit with an old
tooth brush, actuate it a bunch of times (by intermittently applying 12
volts to it) then flush it again with even more throttle body cleaner,
repeat until you can see that it's clean and the cleaner comes out clear
(instead of black). A rough but stable idle can be attributed to the need
for a tune-up. First just try changing the plugs, if still rough, change the
cap and rotor button. If still rough change the plug wires (about $60 for
German wires with loom).
As far as things to look for, check the normal stuff. There are a few things
that could be "issues." The window regulators (if equipped with power
windows) are famous for failure. They use wire cable to lift the window.
These wire frequently fray and eventually fail from lack of lubrication. The
fist sign of problems is slow operation. If they move slowly, or pause while
moving, remove the regulator and lube the heck out of the wire and meal
track and reinstall, keep your fingers crossed. if the regulators have
already filed, there is no rebuild kit, they will have to be replaced. New
units from Audi are almost $500! But decent used ones can be found for under
$150. Stay away from aftermarket ones, from what I've heard they have
problems with binding due to the unusual curvature of the window glass.
Window switches and power mirror switches are also known to fail. Not hard
or expensive to replace. One note of caution, almost all of the power
equipment (windows, locks, cruise control, etc.) are vacuum operated. So
vacuum leaks may cause the accessories not to work. As I'm sure you know,
vacuum leaks can be a PITA to track down.
There really aren't many other CGT related issues. Look for things like
signs of accidents (that one got me, mine was cracked into in 1991, but the
repair is quality and the damage wasn't bad). If the shocks are bad, don't
worry, they are pretty cheap. The most common upgrade is to put on Boge
TurboGas struts/shocks, which are about 15% stiffer than stock and have a
lifetime warranty. They run about $250-$280 for a set of 4. Labor is a bit
high at 5.7 hours for install (but most mechanics can get it done in 3
flat). Look for tired ball joints (play), and worn bushings (cracked). Most
of the suspension bushings are pressed in and are pretty cheap to replace if
bad (unlike the ones on the Passat). Don't expect much from the DOT
headlights. They use a pathetic reflector and a pitiful 9004 bulb. If high
quality lighting is important to you, you can get Euro lights easily for the
car. They are available in H4 and H4/H1 style. I highly recommend the dual
bulb version, as you get nice driving lights to supplement the high beams
and the price difference really isn't much.
CGTs are becoming increasingly rare and nice ones are getting very hard to find.
Even ragged out ones are frequently selling at or above book value. Mine
needed quite a bit of work, book value said $1,750 if it didn't need any
work, but the guy wouldn't go lower than $2,000. From what I've heard, many
others have had to buy cars that need work for above book.
Well, what I had intended to be a short note of encouragement has turned
into a novel. Sorry for being so long winded. I hope all this info helps.


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## CanadianTurbo (May 9, 2001)

*Re: 1982 Audi GT Coupe (duandcc)*

Thanks for the info very informative http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Gord (Jan 4, 2002)

*Re: 1982 Audi GT Coupe (duandcc)*

So how do I differentiate between a regular coupe and a GT??


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## StormChaser (Jan 3, 2000)

*Re: 1982 Audi GT Coupe (Gord)*

quote:[HR][/HR]So how do I differentiate between a regular coupe and a GT??[HR][/HR]​Same car, new name. All they did was add a GT emblem after the Audi script on the rear. I'm pretty sure this started with the 1984 model year, but it may have been a running change...


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## delta v (Jun 8, 2001)

*Re: 1982 Audi GT Coupe (duandcc)*

the '82s still have the 2.1L engine--less power, but still a blast to drive. i had the same engine in my 81 4000 5+5--oh how i miss winding it up through the gears. ~$1250 sounds a little steep, though--i got my 4000 fr ~$600 US, though coupes are more rare, and more interesting. one thing to check for--RUST. its what killed my car--the whole right side rusted out. if i tried to jack it up anywhere, the car woudnt go up--the jack would go in.


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## Fourings (Nov 14, 2001)

*Re: 1982 Audi GT Coupe (CanadianTurbo)*

You could have a great car. As stated previously the transmission is bulletproof, as is the engine. I managed to break the pinion gear in my original tranny at around 150k miles. I think this is a freak occurence though. I have heard from a guy who has rebuilt tons of Audi transmissions that people have broken parts when the wheel was spinning on ice and then suddenly hit dry pavement, but again probably a freak occurence. One thing you will notice living in Canada is how well these cars get around in the snow with only snow tires on the front.
I just put a turbo engine in mine less than a year ago and I am still working out a vapor lock(?)/injector(?)/bad pressure return valve(?) problem, but the car is a blast. I will drive this thing until I ball it up on the racetrack or some clown totals it. It is reliable as a hammer, and still good looking despite obviously being dated.
If you buy this or any 4000. Some of the best modifications you can make: Get Delrin or polyurethane bushings for the front control arms.
Quattro 4000's have a heavier front sway bar than Coupes and sedans and can be had cheap from boneyards. You will want to add a rear bar if you do this.
H&R springs are what I have and I cannot say enough good about them.
The same for adjustable Koni's. You don't need to pony up for Koni's though, you can have a car that handles very precisely with some Boge's, springs, bars, and Delrin control arm bushings. Don't waste your money on the factory rubber ones.
Now drop a 10v turbo in and go crush some VTECs.


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