# Two Major Issues



## ItsATJ (May 9, 2015)

Hi everyone. I am having two engine problems that I don't think are related. I have a 2000 Passat, ATQ, V-6, 30V, 2.8L, 5 Speed. So far, I have replaced the ignition coil and the spark plugs.

First Problem:
- Engine idles rough on start up for the first minute or so, then smooths out.
- Car accelerates fine as long as too much gas isn't applied, then it stutters.
- Car cruises fine unless there is a hill that requires a bit of acceleration, then it stutters.
Pulled 5 codes. They are:
P0300 - Misfire
P0302 - Misfire Cylinder 2
P0306 - Misfire Cylinder 6
P1177 - Manufacture Controlled Fuel & Air Metering
P0159 - Slow Response O-2 Sensor (Bank 2, Sensor 2)

I guess replacing the O-2 Sensor and Plug wires are my next step, unless someone thinks there might be some other suggestion.

Second Problem:
- It is very hard to shift into any gear with clutch pushed in and engine on.
- Up and down shifting is easier if timed with speed of the vehicle (eg. I can shift into 1st if the car has slowed to 5mph, otherwise it is very difficult.) I have had to shut off the engine at stop lights if I missed the 5mph window to get it in first, then start the engine again.
- If I am stopped at a light on level ground in 1st gear with the clutch pushed in and take my foot off the brake, the car will roll forward.
I assume the issue is with the Clutch master and/or slave cylinders and/or the clutch plate itself.

Any assistance anyone can provide will be highly appreciated.

As a side question, how hard is it to replace the passenger side catalytic converter section of the exhaust system? It looks like maybe 5 bolts and a couple hangers and O2 wires.

Ron


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

Problem #1 is most likely a vacuum and/or exhaust leak. Problem #2 is something mechanically wrong with the clutch release assembly, probably a bent release fork.


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## ItsATJ (May 9, 2015)

Thanks for your suggestions.

I spent several hours Sunday using the firewall diagram to look for an obvious vacuum leak. I couldn't find one. Is there a way to find a non-obvious vacuum leak?

I do have an exhaust leak. Just before the mesh thing on the passenger side. It was welded a couple months ago at an exhaust place, but the "repair" only lasted about a week, now it leaks again. I am going to replace the passenger side catalytic converter section next week. What are the chances that will fix the shuttering?

As for suggestion two. I assume that the bent fork can only be replace by removing the transmission/clutch housing from the motor.  The car has just over 134K on it, so I figure, as long as I am going that far, I might as well replace the clutch also.

Ron


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

The way I sniff for vacuum leaks is with a small plumber's torch. I slip a piece of hose over the end of the nozzle and turn the gas on a low setting. I then wave the open end of the hose around the intake manifolds and vacuum lines, and anything vacuum operated (e.g. PCV valve) and listen for an increase in idle speed. 

Some people use carb cleaner, which is easier to meter, but I don't like spraying solvents on plastic and rubber. To prevent a fire, I simply turn the gas off periodically to make sure I don't fill the engine bay with flammable gas. I also keep a fire extinguisher handy to make sure I won't need it.


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

Also, I've never replaced a fork on a 30V, but you usually don't have to remove the bell housing to do it. Just the master cylinder.


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

Also, I'd say the chances are pretty good that fixing the exhaust will make it run better. P0159 is almost always because of an exhaust leak, and it might also be throwing off the fuel trim, causing the misfires and P1177, although I suspect you might also have a vacuum leak causing those.


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

O_o said:


> Also, I've never replaced a fork on a 30V, but you usually don't have to remove the bell housing to do it. Just the master cylinder.


In case it's not obvious, you do have to drop the transmission...


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## ItsATJ (May 9, 2015)

Thanks for all your suggestions and comments. I will give them a try this weekend and let everyone know how it goes.


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

You're welcome.

Now that I think about it though, your clutch problem could be hydraulic. I'd check the master cylinder before dropping the tranny. Does the pedal feel different?

Also, I meant to say "slave cylinder" before, which you should also check before replacing the fork.


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