# Turbo To Manifold Gasket



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Is this the correct turbo to manifold gasket for the k03s?

I just blew out my 2nd OE metal type gasket and I'm ready to try something new.

http://www.034motorsport.com/turboc...-gaskets-t3-bolt-downpipe-gasket-p-19158.html


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## Stevebilt (Jul 30, 2010)

travis_gli said:


> Is this the correct turbo to manifold gasket for the k03s?
> 
> I just blew out my 2nd OE metal type gasket and I'm ready to try something new.
> 
> http://www.034motorsport.com/turboc...-gaskets-t3-bolt-downpipe-gasket-p-19158.html


No, that's not the one you need.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

EDIT: Forget it I found it.

http://www.intengineering.com/VW/Hardware/Gaskets/Cometic-VW-K03-Inlet-p3333557.html


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

All the ones i have seen are the 3 layer steel ones. I, like most have had the most success with no gasket on the stock setup.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

cincyTT said:


> All the ones i have seen are the 3 layer steel ones. I, like most have had the most success with no gasket on the stock setup.


You think I should go with running no gasket? Does it require cleaning or anything? I would really like to just unbolt the turbo, pull the old gasket out, and bolt it back up. I only give it about another year before there's a T3 / T4 manifold sitting off the back of the motor anyway. I just want the leak gone for the mean time.


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

when you reinstall the gasket put some RTV on it and let it dry before installing it. I was blowing out gaskets like mad. After the RTV trick it's been smooth sailing ever since.eace:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

yall r crazy. dude get a gasket again the cometic one will be fine. if that blows out then you need new bolts or something


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> yall r crazy. dude get a gasket again the cometic one will be fine. if that blows out then you need new bolts or something


I just ordered one. This is the last gasket I'm trying. It's been a yearly thing now since I got the car.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Make sure you are getting those bolts torqued down right.

My bet is that your two mating surfaces aren't super clean. Make sure to scotch brite them and get them nice and clean.

Then make sure when you're done that you've wrenched on all the nuts a few times. If anything is even slightly loose then super hot air will blow by the gasket and kill the gasket. A small exhaust leak will KILL gaskets. (ask me how I know)


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

groggory said:


> Make sure you are getting those bolts torqued down right.
> 
> My bet is that your two mating surfaces aren't super clean. Make sure to scotch brite them and get them nice and clean.
> 
> Then make sure when you're done that you've wrenched on all the nuts a few times. If anything is even slightly loose then super hot air will blow by the gasket and kill the gasket. A small exhaust leak will KILL gaskets. (ask me how I know)


Know the torque specs on the bolts? I doubt I will be taking everything apart just to clean the mating surfaces however. I would rather spend $20 on a gasket than spend hours pulling the manifold off. As I said this happens about once a year and next year around this time I'll have the BT setup going on so no worries.


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

The RTV comes in helpful if you have a slight imperfection that's letting the exhaust pass through. Plus unless you're pulling the manifold off, then it's gonna be pretty hard to clean up those surfaces. eace:


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

travis_gli said:


> Know the torque specs on the bolts? I doubt I will be taking everything apart just to clean the mating surfaces however. I would rather spend $20 on a gasket than spend hours pulling the manifold off. As I said this happens about once a year and next year around this time I'll have the BT setup going on so no worries.


ESPECIALLY if you aren't cleaning the surfaces get the high temp RTV. Also, don't forget that it takes a DAY for the RTV to set before you're allowed to start your engine. So be patient. If you start it early the RTV won't be fully cured and will blow out from the pressure behind it (thereby undoing your work).

I don't remember the torque specs. Use the stock torque specs.

Also, don't forget to use the OEM exhaust manifold spacer nuts. They do a ton for dealing with the heat and help with the expansion and contraction problem so your manifold won't come loose over time.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

groggory said:


> OEM exhaust manifold spacer nuts.


On the turbo to manifold bolts?


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## xxsur3shotxx (Sep 24, 2009)

travis_gli said:


> On the turbo to manifold bolts?


nah, i think he means for the manifold itself, if you were pulling the manifold off. There aren't any nuts where the turbo attaches to the mani, just those 3 bolts.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

travis_gli said:


> On the turbo to manifold bolts?


I meant head -> manifold.

Sorry for the confusion.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

think I blew my gasket again 3 days after my new turbo install. old one was blown bad making me think my turbo was shot.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

In my experience and after all this is now completely done with. Nordlock washers proper sized turbo to manifold mounting bolts and the FACTORY gasket work together like a boss. The factory gasket seems to hold up much better than the others. I've been leak free for months now. Now I just need to fix my leaky downpipe. :laugh: I also torqued the bolts to factory specs and gave a small maybe 10 - 20 degree turn on them afterward.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> In my experience and after all this is now completely done with. Nordlock washers proper sized turbo to manifold mounting bolts and the FACTORY gasket work together like a boss. The factory gasket seems to hold up much better than the others. I've been leak free for months now. Now I just need to fix my leaky downpipe. :laugh: I also torqued the bolts to factory specs and gave a small maybe 10 - 20 degree turn on them afterward.


:thumbup: i knew it was the bolts because stock gaskets are the $hit


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

travis_gli said:


> In my experience and after all this is now completely done with. Nordlock washers proper sized turbo to manifold mounting bolts and the FACTORY gasket work together like a boss. The factory gasket seems to hold up much better than the others. I've been leak free for months now. Now I just need to fix my leaky downpipe. :laugh: I also torqued the bolts to factory specs and gave a small maybe 10 - 20 degree turn on them afterward.


Do you mean lock washers?


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## Downeywu (Apr 27, 2005)

Slimjimmn said:


> Do you mean lock washers?


no, he means nordlock washers...google them, they're great.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

ahhh.... ic
i dont have issues with the bolt loosening up though. The gasket just blew out again. I used new bolts and the oe washers. 
on a side note, the grade 8 bolts I used are now a chalky color..? with residue on them... strange, maybe its the heat? it looks like antisieze is on the bolt head now.

edit: where do you get nordlock washers?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Slimjimmn said:


> ahhh.... ic
> i dont have issues with the bolt loosening up though. The gasket just blew out again. I used new bolts and the oe washers.
> on a side note, the grade 8 bolts I used are now a chalky color..? with residue on them... strange, maybe its the heat? it looks like antisieze is on the bolt head now.
> 
> edit: where do you get nordlock washers?


If the bolts loosen up then crazy hot gases will blow between the sealing areas and the gasket. The gasket is meant to contain the pressure...not have crazy hot gases flowing over it. You don't realize it's loose and you have a leak til the gasket totally blows.

I almost guarantee it.

Also, the chalky bolts are from them getting super heated from the gases flowing over them.

You need to take any one of many measures to prevent your bolts from loosening up. These methods are pretty well documented on here but if you don't know them just speak up and we'll fill you in on the details.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

I just rechecked and the bolts are torqued. I am going to order one of those cometic gaskets.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Slimjimmn said:


> I just rechecked and the bolts are torqued. I am going to order one of those cometic gaskets.


What kind of metal are the bolts made of?

Stainless is 100% wrong...btw, in case that's your answer


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

groggory said:


> What kind of metal are the bolts made of?
> 
> Stainless is 100% wrong...btw, in case that's your answer


 yes, kinda sure they are stainless. The nut and bolt supplier gives us them..


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

groggory said:


> If the bolts loosen up then crazy hot gases will blow between the sealing areas and the gasket. The gasket is meant to contain the pressure...not have crazy hot gases flowing over it. You don't realize it's loose and you have a leak til the gasket totally blows.
> 
> I almost guarantee it.
> 
> ...


:thumbup:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Slimjimmn said:


> I just rechecked and the bolts are torqued. I am going to order one of those cometic gaskets.


This is what you want. OEM type.









Not cometic. I blew one of these out in 5 days. They don't hold up. You'd be better off running no gasket before moving to a cometic.









Also replace those bolts. After going through many many heatcycles they are getting soft and brittle. You don't want to do what I did and torque one down then have it snap off and have to extract it. Trust me it was a major PITA. :thumbup:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

the OEM gasket is superior :thumbup:


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## Atomic Ed (Mar 19, 2009)

I may try this instead of a gasket. Just need to be carefull not to squish any into the turbine intake. Thin layer.

http://www.superlogics.com/adhesives/epoxies/tc-adh-resbond-907gf-5/259-1499.htm


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Atomic Ed said:


> I may try this instead of a gasket. Just need to be carefull not to squish any into the turbine intake. Thin layer.
> 
> http://www.superlogics.com/adhesives/epoxies/tc-adh-resbond-907gf-5/259-1499.htm


I wouldn't bother with the headache or expense. New bolts, nordlock washers and new OEM gasket is the way to go. :thumbup:


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## Atomic Ed (Mar 19, 2009)

I would usualy agree, but I've got a "hogged" out collector and turbine inlet. The standard gasket doesn't fit. 

This putty, in conjuction with a regular OEM gasket, may reduce gasket blowout. I think this would be much better than RTV for those with uneven gasket surfaces.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Atomic Ed said:


> I would usualy agree, but I've got a "hogged" out collector and turbine inlet. The standard gasket doesn't fit.
> 
> This putty, in conjuction with a regular OEM gasket, may reduce gasket blowout. I think this would be much better than RTV for those with uneven gasket surfaces.


Why do you say yours are uneven. You'll probably never get a proper seal if that's the case.


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## Atomic Ed (Mar 19, 2009)

travis_gli said:


> Why do you say yours are uneven. You'll probably never get a proper seal if that's the case.


Sorry about the confusion.

Mine is fine. I was responding to some of the other posters stateing they were having problems.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

well I ordered a gasket and nordlock washers from IE, going to the dealer to get the oe bolts when I get a chance.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Before I forget to mention this. Another leading cause gasket failure for the turbo to manifold gasket is a cracked turbo or manifold flange. Something to check if you decide to take everything apart. I'm not quite sure how common the flanges cracking are however I've seen it happen. More so on aftermarket cast manifolds however I've also seen k03 / k03s / k04 flanges on the turbo crack as well. Take note though that you do not have to tear everything apart to replace the gasket. Simply taking out the bolts will give you enough clearance to slide the old gasket out and the new in. Be sure to reference the way the old one came out so you can properly align the new one. I'm not sure about the stock manifold but I know with aftermarket cast ones the turbo to manifold mounting bolt closest to the engine block hits the top of the engine block when you try to take it out. You need to loosen the exhaust manifold in order to get the bolt out.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

got my shiz taken care of. The stainless bolts I had in loosened up and the gasket blew out. 

Cassidy at Integrated hooked me up with some nordlock washers and a gasket.:thumbup::beer: I bent over at the dealer for the OEM bolts ($24my cost) normal 34.00!!:facepalm:








heres the position for the gasket










Just unbolted and slipped the gasket in. I looked with a mirror and didnt see anything on the manifold or turbo mating surfaces.
BOLT TORQUE 30nm (not foot pounds)
Car runs great now, hit 15psi on my stock ecm lol (10deg outside) Cant wait to get my 3" catback. :thumbup:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Slimjimmn said:


> Cassidy at Integrated hooked me up with some nordlock washers and a gasket.:thumbup::beer: I bent over at the dealer for the OEM bolts ($24my cost) normal 34.00!!:facepalm:


Hey good job at using the gasket myself and other vortex members recommended against using. However I'm glad to hear you are leak free. The bolts are very high grade so the $24 isn't anything to be concerned about. I actually replaced mine with bolts that came out of a Ford PowerStroke block for free however since my buddy had them lying around.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

travis_gli said:


> Hey good job at using the gasket myself and other vortex members recommended against using. However I'm glad to hear you are leak free. The bolts are very high grade so the $24 isn't anything to be concerned about. I actually replaced mine with bolts that came out of a Ford PowerStroke block for free however since my buddy had them lying around.


Yeah...why did you go with the cometic gasket even after all the people recommending away from it?

..just out of curiosity...what was your thought process here?


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

because I blew out 2 oem gaskets and I believe the manifold is warped.

the bolts didnt loosen up untill 2 days ago. The gasket blew out 3 days after I put my new turbo in. the bolts were still tight a week later.

the second gasket that blew out is warped like a cup


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Slimjimmn said:


> because I blew out 2 oem gaskets and I believe the manifold is warped.
> 
> the bolts didnt loosen up untill 2 days ago. The gasket blew out 3 days after I put my new turbo in. the bolts were still tight a week later.
> 
> the second gasket that blew out is warped like a cup


The gaskets didn't blow out because they were junk. They blew out because either your flanges are warped or your bolts were loosening without your knowledge. This could have also been a case of expansion from heating up the bolts. Again if the cometic gasket works for you then so be it, at least you are leak free.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> The gaskets didn't blow out because they were junk. They blew out because either your flanges are warped or your bolts were loosening without your knowledge. This could have also been a case of expansion from heating up the bolts. Again if the cometic gasket works for you then so be it, at least you are leak free.


this. he said is manifold is warped. the thinner stock gaskets will not work on warped manifolds, only flat ones. i think the only reason that cometic seals is because its a little thicker than the stock one. also the new hardware can only help. good job on the fix tho


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

the cometic gasket is about the same thickness, it just has a single layer of thicker steel and on both sides is a crush gasket of metal flake. It allows for sealing with uneven surfaces (aka warped manifold). If it lasts a year I will be happy. :thumbup:


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

****IN bolts loosened up...! 

**** 1.8t.. bull**** 

how the **** can a tightened OEM bolt with a nordlock washer loosen up? I torqued them to specs:banghead: 

only had a 17mm wrench at home, but tightened them up as much as I could and test drove and it drives fine now. :facepalm:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Slimjimmn said:


> ****IN bolts loosened up...!
> 
> **** 1.8t.. bull****
> 
> ...


 http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5550550-big-turbo-bolts-that-wont-loosen-back-out


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

and you can not use those on the turbo to manifold bolts in a stock ko3... downpipe, yea you could. 

maybe its from my BFI mounts? i dont know.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Slimjimmn said:


> and you can not use those on the turbo to manifold bolts in a stock ko3... downpipe, yea you could.
> 
> maybe its from my BFI mounts? i dont know.


 what are you talking about? why cant you?


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

there is nowhere that the lock tabs could press against to lock the bolts from spinning.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Slimjimmn said:


> there is nowhere that the lock tabs could press against to lock the bolts from spinning.


 did you see the link i posted? use the stock bolts with that putty and you wont have problems w/ bolts loosening any more. read the link it's easy :thumbup:


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

oh, I thought it was the triangle lock tabs, not the putty. Putty sounds legit, just dont know how it would come off when needed? 
I used exhaust putty to try and seal my poor ebay exhaust slip fit sections, didnt work well.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Slimjimmn said:


> oh, I thought it was the triangle lock tabs, not the putty. Putty sounds legit, just dont know how it would come off when needed?
> I used exhaust putty to try and seal my poor ebay exhaust slip fit sections, didnt work well.


 it comes off very easy :thumbup:


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

Here is that cometic gasket after 3k miles of driving with quality nordlock washers!









put a new one on today using the oem bolts and oem washers. Love that turbo spool now. Lets see how long it lasts.
and no I didnt use exhaust putty with the new gasket.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Slimjimmn said:


> Here is that cometic gasket after 3k miles of driving with quality nordlock washers!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


did you use putty on the old one? i assume no since you had nordlocks?


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## STOICH (Jun 21, 2010)

If anyone is interested, I have a set of wire-ready bolts for the K03 turbo/mani flange. Just cover shipping :thumbup:


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

I wonder why IE sells those gaskets if they are sh_t????? They claim its the last gasket you will need... I picked one up from IE when I got my rods and I'm about to toss it on my FT when I do rods next week. Having second thoughts now... 
I re-tighten my hardware every now and then so I haven't had issues like most.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

The gasket works fine. I just had bolts loosening up due to nordlock washer issue. Itblew out from that then just got worse. I will see how it lasts this summer. If it blows, I will just get a new mani and oe gasket.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Slimjimmn said:


> The gasket works fine. I just had bolts loosening up due to nordlock washer issue. Itblew out from that then just got worse. I will see how it lasts this summer. If it blows, I will just get a new mani and oe gasket.


Or take it to a machine shop and just have it milled flat. Not a big procedure for them to do and not hard on your pocketbook if you are the one taking the time to get the manifold off.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Twopnt016v said:


> I wonder why IE sells those gaskets if they are sh_t????? They claim its the last gasket you will need... I picked one up from IE when I got my rods and I'm about to toss it on my FT when I do rods next week. Having second thoughts now...
> I re-tighten my hardware every now and then so I haven't had issues like most.


sounds like u need some exhaust putty lol



Slimjimmn said:


> The gasket works fine. I just had bolts loosening up due to nordlock washer issue. Itblew out from that then just got worse. I will see how it lasts this summer. If it blows, I will just get a new mani and oe gasket.


did you use putty? lol


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## Shamrock (Aug 7, 2004)

Big_Tom said:


> sounds like u need some exhaust putty lol
> 
> 
> 
> did you use putty? lol


hmm sounds like I need to get exhaust putty for my troublesome bolts


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

Big_Tom said:


> sounds like u need some exhaust putty lol


Yeah I havent had any issue yet:laugh:. Just bought the gasket since I was already getting a bunch of sh_t from IE. I also got nordlocks and I'm gonna still probably gonna toss some putty on there too:laugh::thumbup::wave:


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Shamrock said:


> hmm sounds like I need to get exhaust putty for my troublesome bolts


Checking the flanges for flatness wouldn't hurt either


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Twopnt016v said:


> Yeah I havent had any issue yet:laugh:. Just bought the gasket since I was already getting a bunch of sh_t from IE. I also got nordlocks and I'm gonna still probably gonna toss some putty on there too:laugh::thumbup::wave:


:beer: i guess slim hasn't used any


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

I didnt use any putty on the bolts for the new gasket. Just re-checked and they are all tight today after 70miles of driving the past 2 days. 
I have a feeling, as stated before, that those 10mm nordlock washers are too small of surface area for the bolt to properly work. I torqued to specs the bolts with nordlock washers and they came loose in less then 100miles of driving, and kept coming loose all the time. It wasnt until I put oem washers in did it stop loosening up, but by then the gasket was toast. :banghead:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Slimjimmn said:


> I didnt use any putty on the bolts for the new gasket. Just re-checked and they are all tight today after 70miles of driving the past 2 days.
> I have a feeling, as stated before, that those 10mm nordlock washers are too small of surface area for the bolt to properly work. I torqued to specs the bolts with nordlock washers and they came loose in less then 100miles of driving, and kept coming loose all the time. It wasnt until I put oem washers in did it stop loosening up, but by then the gasket was toast. :banghead:


what about putty on the old ones? i think you could be right about those nordlocks, sounds very possible


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

My nordlocks are definitely smaller than the seats around the head of the bolts. I had to tighten the one closest to the block at least 3 times now however it hasn't come loose since the last time I tightened it. The rest have been fine. I still think the OEM gasket is better. Either way you won't blow a gasket unless the bolts loosen up.


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

travis_gli said:


> My nordlocks are definitely smaller than the seats around the head of the bolts. I had to tighten the one closest to the block at least 3 times now however it hasn't come loose since the last time I tightened it. The rest have been fine. I still think the OEM gasket is better. Either way you won't blow a gasket unless the bolts loosen up.


Were you using nordlocks from IE?


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

Twopnt016v said:


> Were you using nordlocks from IE?


I did. the m10 ones. They all loosened up many times. It wasn't until the gasket was blown and super thin that the bolts didn't loosen up any more.
No issues after oem washers and bolts and a new gasket were installed. :thumbup:

oh, and no putty used on the nordlock washers. In theory shouldnt have to. opcorn:


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

Slimjimmn said:


> I did. the m10 ones. They all loosened up many times. It wasn't until the gasket was blown and super thin that the bolts didn't loosen up any more.
> No issues after oem washers and bolts and a new gasket were installed. :thumbup:
> 
> oh, and no putty used on the nordlock washers. In theory shouldnt have to. opcorn:


Makes me think twice about using the nordlocks then...


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Twopnt016v said:


> Were you using nordlocks from IE?


I believe my nordlocks came from either McMaster-Carr or Fastenal. :thumbup:


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

like I have stated before, if a larger nordlock was used, I believe it would work accordingly. My buddy installs them on the rigs up in North Dakota and they work fine in pretty extreme conditions year round.


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

LOL at this bullsh_t... 
I tossed an AEB head at my car over the weekend so I obvoisly removed my manifold etc.. 
Let me preface this.... 
I've been running aFT for some time now and I never had issue with mani-turbo bolts coming lose. Even with the 8.8 grade SS bolts that come with the FT. 
I tossed some nordlocks(not generic but nordlocks...from IE:thumbdown at it with high temp locktite that i bought off 225warranty here on the tex and........ 

that bullsh_t didn't hold for 2 days 
I'm blaming it on the nordlocks:thumbdown: garbage...IE needs to quit selling those... 
Regular lock washers held for over a year:thumbup::thumbup: 

Lockwashers and exhaust repair paste ftw.....


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Twopnt016v said:


> Makes me think twice about using the nordlocks then...


 :laugh::facepalm: and you did it anyways. i been screamin this @ you fellas for months :laugh: 



Twopnt016v said:


> LOL at this bullsh_t...
> I tossed an AEB head at my car over the weekend so I obvoisly removed my manifold etc..
> Let me preface this....
> I've been running aFT for some time now and I never had issue with mani-turbo bolts coming lose. Even with the 8.8 grade SS bolts that come with the FT.
> ...


 i made the necessary changes


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

Big_Tom said:


> :laugh::facepalm: and you did it anyways. i been screamin this @ you fellas for months :laugh:
> 
> 
> 
> i made the necessary changes


 Yeah Yeah Tom:laugh::thumbup: 
I'm the type of guy that has to see for myself... 
I hate to think some people cant do things proper style but I know sometimes that's the case... 
I never had any problem with my bolts loosening up is the funny part... 
Anyway I know I'm making excuses....but they were real Nordlocks...I mean real DOO DOO!:


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

Hmm... about a month ago I twisted off one of my turbo to mani bolts on a retightening mission. I was going to try nordlocks but a while back I picked up some exhaust repair putty as per Big_Tom's suggestion. 

I'm hoping to change oil and fix the exhaust leak this weekend so try the putty instead - brilliant idea :thumbup:


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## woteg (Apr 7, 2009)

just installed mine w/ studs nordlocks and nuts.... thinking of throwing some of that putty on top of them to be safe


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Twopnt016v said:


> Yeah Yeah Tom:laugh::thumbup:
> I'm the type of guy that has to see for myself...
> I hate to think some people cant do things proper style but I know sometimes that's the case...
> I never had any problem with my bolts loosening up is the funny part...
> Anyway I know I'm making excuses....but they were real Nordlocks...I mean real DOO DOO!:


 yeah, coming across products that don't work happens more than you think  



All_Euro said:


> Hmm... about a month ago I twisted off one of my turbo to mani bolts on a retightening mission. I was going to try nordlocks but a while back I picked up some exhaust repair putty as per Big_Tom's suggestion.
> 
> I'm hoping to change oil and fix the exhaust leak this weekend so try the putty instead - brilliant idea :thumbup:


 :thumbup: screw the nordlocks 



woteg said:


> just installed mine w/ studs nordlocks and nuts.... thinking of throwing some of that putty on top of them to be safe


 install them and then wait and see what happens


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Honestly the best method to go about it is probably using safety wire. There is no mess, its guaranteed to work and its easy to remove if you need to drop the turbo. Safety wire has been used since the model T's to secure bolts. :thumbup: I would have done this originally but drilling the heads of grade 8 - 10 bolts is not easy.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Honestly the best method to go about it is *using the exhaust putty*.


 :thumbup:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> :thumbup:


 :laugh:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> :laugh:


 :beer:


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

Its been 2 weeks with my OEM bolts and OEM washers and they have not loosened up one bit:beer: 

So much more fun to drive with proper turbo boosting


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Slimjimmn said:


> Its been 2 weeks with my OEM bolts and OEM washers and they have not loosened up one bit:beer:
> 
> So much more fun to drive with proper turbo boosting


 Do like I did, get sick of tightening bolts... buy 50 trim kit. :laugh:


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

Totally unrelated, awesome bicycle kick goal!


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> Do like I did, get sick of tightening bolts... buy 50 trim kit. :laugh:


 :laugh:ic:


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

OEM hardware + red loctite & exhaust putty = problem hopefully solved.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

All_Euro said:


> OEM hardware + red loctite & exhaust putty = problem hopefully solved.


 Loctite doesn't make high enough temp stuff


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

groggory said:


> Loctite doesn't make high enough temp stuff


 This is true, but even if the loctite helps hold the bolts until the putty is fully cured - it's done it's job :thumbup:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

All_Euro said:


> This is true, but even if the loctite helps hold the bolts until the putty is fully cured - it's done it's job :thumbup:


 http://www.mcmaster.com/#threadlockers/=i13qje 

That is what you need. Bottle is quite large too so it will last you a good while. :thumbup: 

EDIT: Click Extreme-Temperature Pipe Sealants and Threadlockers


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

All_Euro said:


> This is true, but even if the loctite helps hold the bolts until the putty is fully cured - it's done it's job :thumbup:


 Not true. 

Loctite can melt under high temps and actually act as a lube to help your bolts come loose. 

Great for lower temp stuff. Not what you want for high temp stuff.


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

groggory said:


> Not true.
> 
> Loctite can melt under high temps and actually act as a lube to help your bolts come loose.
> 
> Great for lower temp stuff. Not what you want for high temp stuff.


 This is a new thought to me... I would imagine the loctite would break down & loose adhesion but remain powder like. Shouldn't the remnants be gritty?


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## STOICH (Jun 21, 2010)

All_Euro said:


> This is a new thought to me... I would imagine the loctite would break down & loose adhesion but remain powder like. Shouldn't the remnants be gritty?


 This is correct - it's reduced to a powder. Not as effective, but still works in some cases.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

...or you can get the threadlocker that I suggested above that is actually meant for high temperature applications. :thumbup:


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

If the exhaust putty trick doesn't work I'm going with a little scotch-tape on the threads


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

groggory said:


> Not true.
> 
> Loctite can melt under high temps and actually act as a lube to help your bolts come loose.
> 
> Great for lower temp stuff. Not what you want for high temp stuff.


 yep, it does melt at exhaust temps. it's rated for 300F.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Most threadlockers are made up of methacrylates which are also used to make polymer plastics. You can bet your fanny they'll melt under high enough temperatures, just like polymer plastics. Especially in the lava conditions of the K03's. :thumbup:


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## BMP #1736 (Dec 14, 2011)

Jeez why doesnt everyone just buy bolts with heads pre-drilled and safety wire them all together.

Its funny seeing all the threads on what "threadlocker" to use/ is the best/ temp it can with-hold..

I got mine done at 60k with saftey wire and not one of my bolts has moved a centimeter. 

The best part, its cheap.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

All_Euro said:


> If the exhaust putty trick doesn't work I'm going with a little scotch-tape on the threads


 duct tape bro.... get it right


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

Slimjimmn said:


> duct tape bro.... get it right


 Haha, true... true... Imma go fo tha camo tho yo'


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## banderillero90 (Jun 27, 2008)

can someone tell me which studs/bolts for the turbo manifold they used here? http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_IV--1.8T/Engine/Turbo/Hardware/
And also what grade and type of lockwashers used?


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## banderillero90 (Jun 27, 2008)

can i just use new oem m10 nuts for the m10x50 turbo bolts with the putty?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

banderillero90 said:


> can i just use new oem m10 nuts for the m10x50 turbo bolts with the putty?


Yes


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## woteg (Apr 7, 2009)

use washers too, mine w/o backed out 2x, put them on and didn't back out for a good 6k miles


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

woteg said:


> use washers too, mine w/o backed out 2x, put them on and didn't back out for a good 6k miles


The OEM exhaust manifold washers are perfect. Use OEM washers.


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## banderillero90 (Jun 27, 2008)

Groggory,

Thank you for the help. I am about to sea foam my car tomorrow. I'm suspecting that it's this gasket hopefully seeing that I've been pushing 23lbs of boost on the stock turbo for a year now. ECS has the downpipe washers and exhaust manifold washers. Are you saying to use the washers for the exhaust manifold on the 3 bolts used for the turbo manifold?


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## woteg (Apr 7, 2009)

banderillero90 said:


> Groggory,
> 
> Thank you for the help. I am about to sea foam my car tomorrow. I'm suspecting that it's this gasket hopefully seeing that I've been pushing 23lbs of boost on the stock turbo for a year now. ECS has the downpipe washers and exhaust manifold washers. Are you saying to use the washers for the exhaust manifold on the 3 bolts used for the turbo manifold?


those won't even be close to fitting


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

woteg said:


> those won't even be close to fitting


I thought you meant exhaust manifold ->. Head


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## banderillero90 (Jun 27, 2008)

Lol I should have clarified. Anyone care to help me figure out the hardware needed for the 3 turbo manifold bolts on ECS's website?


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## woteg (Apr 7, 2009)

you need the 10x50s, ecs doesnt have washers for them, just goto the dealer and get the ones they have, they have the washer included


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## banderillero90 (Jun 27, 2008)

I finally got the parts from the dealership and did the seafoam test. It is leaking from the turbo to manifold gasket. I got permatex ultra copper rtv up to 700 degrees Farenheit, hopefully thats good enough. What side of the mating surface should the silicone go? I only plan on unbolting and sliding the gasket in without taking everything apart. I also got a tube of that OEM Hot bolt paste anti-seize for exhaust parts. How long should this whole process take?


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## banderillero90 (Jun 27, 2008)

Bumps I got all the OEM parts together. Can someone tell me the best way to do this. I'm attempting it on Saturday. Do I even need RTV?


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

You might as well use the RTV to be safe, you really only want to do this once. Unbolt the turbo from the manifold, you may or may not have to remove the bottom mount from the turbo to get enough play to slide out the old gasket and slide in the new. Make sure not to put too much stress on the oil and coolant lines as they are really the only thing holding the turbo up at this point. (Mine handled a great deal of stress on my car so don't be entirely worried about it.) MAKE SURE YOU TAKE NOTE OF HOW THE OLD GASKET CAME OUT. If you don't you'll have a hell of a time aligning the new gasket the proper way since they only go in one way. Get the new gasket in, install your nordlocks, or locking bracket if you have any of which. Then bolt down the turbo to the manifold USING NEW BOLTS but do not tighten up quite yet. Re-attach your bottom mounting bracket to the turbo while there is still some play. Continue to tighten up the manifold to turbo bolts, snug them up and torque to factory specs. :thumbup:

I've done this around 4 - 5 times so I'm a pro.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

travis_gli said:


> You might as well use the RTV to be safe, you really only want to do this once. Unbolt the turbo from the manifold, you may or may not have to remove the bottom mount from the turbo to get enough play to slide out the old gasket and slide in the new. Make sure not to put too much stress on the oil and coolant lines as they are really the only thing holding the turbo up at this point. (Mine handled a great deal of stress on my car so don't be entirely worried about it.) MAKE SURE YOU TAKE NOTE OF HOW THE OLD GASKET CAME OUT. If you don't you'll have a hell of a time aligning the new gasket the proper way since they only go in one way. Get the new gasket in, install your nordlocks, or locking bracket if you have any of which. Then bolt down the turbo to the manifold USING NEW BOLTS but do not tighten up quite yet. Re-attach your bottom mounting bracket to the turbo while there is still some play. Continue to tighten up the manifold to turbo bolts, snug them up and torque to factory specs. :thumbup:
> 
> I've done this around 4 - 5 times so I'm a pro.


:beer:


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## banderillero90 (Jun 27, 2008)

thanks for the help guys. I have just come to the realization however that I might have to change my motor mounts before I do this. Do you guys think they may have caused this leak in the first place? If I'm doing the motor mounts should I just do the timing belt, rear cam and crank seals anyway.

When doing the rear cam and crank seals where the timing belt is do I have to drain my oil as well? I just did an oil change:banghead:. What tools are needed to remove the cam and crank sprockets to change these seals?


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

banderillero90 said:


> thanks for the help guys. I have just come to the realization however that I might have to change my motor mounts before I do this. Do you guys think they may have caused this leak in the first place? If I'm doing the motor mounts should I just do the timing belt, rear cam and crank seals anyway.
> 
> When doing the rear cam and crank seals where the timing belt is do I have to drain my oil as well? I just did an oil change:banghead:. What tools are needed to remove the cam and crank sprockets to change these seals?


its possible, your mounts are that bad. i know when i was on the old factory mounts, my exhaust bolts would come loose all the time. i constantly had exhaust leaks. BFI stg 1's are worth looking into


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## woteg (Apr 7, 2009)

banderillero90 said:


> thanks for the help guys. I have just come to the realization however that I might have to change my motor mounts before I do this. Do you guys think they may have caused this leak in the first place? If I'm doing the motor mounts should I just do the timing belt, rear cam and crank seals anyway.
> 
> When doing the rear cam and crank seals where the timing belt is do I have to drain my oil as well? I just did an oil change:banghead:. What tools are needed to remove the cam and crank sprockets to change these seals?


from what i've heard about the seals is: if they arent leaking dont touch them.


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## banderillero90 (Jun 27, 2008)

They've been leaking for the past 10k miles lol. I called BFI but they are sold out til Waterfest. Should I even touch this turbo mani gasket before the show?


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## joe taffuri (Apr 3, 2013)

*bolt torques?*

What is the torque amount on these turbo to manifold bolts anyway . Mine is leaking I believe from there . Any hints as to the procedure on how to???
Thanks


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

27 ft/lbs

17mm 3/8" chrome swivel socket. 

Use new oem bolts and washers or it will come loose again


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