# DIY panoramic sunblind sunshade OEM repair. - 1 hr



## Cabage1313 (Dec 14, 2014)

Hi. Posted this in another thread but thought it deserved its own as it is for a tiguan 

:thumbup:

Whooohoooo
Just finished repairing my torn sun shade or sunblind. Dealer here in Australia was going to charge $2500 for the job. $1000 for the blind and $1500 for 10 hr labour. Blind can be bought from VWpartsnation on ebay for $219us and they provide a excellent service. Post them you vin number and they will make sure you get the correct colour. 
Did it myself in 3 hrs but now I know how to do it could do it in under 1 hour. When your blind is broken you don't know where the metal coil in the edge of the blind runs as nothing shows where this goes and you can't refer your own as it has already torn away from the correct position. Instructions from manuals-online.com are great but the track where the metal coil runs is not entirely clear from the picture and they require you to take off the headliner to get access

iT CAN BE Done WITHOUT removing the headline !!  And therefore only takes 1 hour. 

Remove rear sunroof glass. Open sunroof fully. Twist a hold sunroof open knob and it will extend fully backwards. This allows acess to front 2 screws . Undo another 4 internal torx screws on inside side bars of the rear glass. They are behind the rubber seal. Re move glass panel and put somewhere safe

Open rear hatch . Pull down rear trim holding up back of headliner. Undo the knob holding the rear c pillar covers to the metal roof . Pull the c pillars upwards and inwards. There is a annoying clip under the airbag sign that has to be lifted 45 deg upwards to disengage. The airbag is high against the roof on the side and nowhere near where you are pulling. Disconnect the battery if you are at all worried but remember you have to open the sunroof to access the rear roof , then you have to move it forward again., then you have to move the cross bar back and later you will need to test your work . See picture ( will add later). You should now have enough room from the drop in the rear headliner to access the sunblind

The c pillars can just be left angling in like this 










This will enable enough room to access the roller blind. Undo 2 torx screws then let it drop down from I front of the blind motor. 
Will need to use a modded tool such a the correct torx bit held in a spanner with sticky tape or I you have one of those tools you can screw around a corner that would be even better. 










Once the lip is down far enough to clear the motor you can just pull backwards and downwards to disengage the blind . Remove fully from the car and remove what's left of you broken blind. 










Go back and retract the panoramic blind as far as possible so the moving crossbar is retracted as far back as possible. Stand up in the back seat and undo the two screws in the back left and right corner that hold the corner of the rubber seal in place. Place a very fine blade or screw drive down the side of this clip to disengage a tight tab there( see manuals-online for further clarification.) Fold the now loose clip forward and the will expose the edge of the aluminium cross bar you have just full retracted. This can now be lifted upwards and removed . Make note of the plastic inserts on the end and how they go and which side they go. You can now remove these and place on the roof on their correct sides for refitting later












Take off the cross bar remembering it's orientation ( bow in bar obviously points upwards)

Correctly feed this onto the rubber strip on the front edge of the blind. Match the shape of the rubber strip the to correct channel and it will slide on easily with no deformation of the rubber stripe . 










Pull the crossbar slightly forward 2-3 cm so the metal coil of the blind comes out a little bit and the cross bar is almost at the front lip of the blind holder.

Now replace the blind holder and the blind in the same way you removed it . It will take some wiggling and at the same time try and feed the cross bar through the small gap. You should be able to pull the bar forward to its most retracted position from where you removed it originally . Don't pull it anymore than that. You will feel the sunblind hold slide into the correct position and the screw holes will line up perfectly. Screw the torx screws in loosely with your hand just to hold it there temporarily I case you need to retry later. Don't forget to come back and do the up properly once you have tested everything works ok. 










Go back and stand up in the back seat

With a very small tweezer or pair of needle pliars try and lift up the curling front edge of the metal coil and feed it into the channel along each side. This is the hard bit as very little room and requires a lot of wriggling and feeding the roller blind backward and forward to make room. The channel is flat and there is only a 2 mm opening on the superior aspect of the channel where the blind will come out of and slide up and back from. 
In the picture below I have the metal coil on the edge of the blind hooked onto the end of a pair of tweezers and have to move it to the channel to the left of where it is now. 
Once you have one side in replace the plastics end pieces into the crossbar and seat them correctly against the blue tab on the very outer channel above where you have just feed the metal guide. Note when doing this the plastic end tabs will come out from the bar by a few mms. They are not designed to sit in nice and tight and actually look like they have only been inserted 4/5ths of the way in. Align the two cut outs in the metal coil to the corresponding pins on the underside of the plastic end bits when fitting the end bits to the blue plastic shuttle. Once aligned snap down the corner piece you have had to fold back to get access to this side to hold everything in place. Now do the other side in the same way. 










Now test your roller blind. So long as you have fed the metal guide into the correct channel everything will be nice and taunt
Go back and screw everything nice and tight again


Pictures coming


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## rtmeikle (Dec 17, 2001)

Thanks for posting this! I may be doing this myself soon....


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## ticketed2much (Feb 18, 2012)

rtmeikle said:


> Thanks for posting this! I may be doing this myself soon....




Ditto. Just did this and this write up was very helpful.


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## rtmeikle (Dec 17, 2001)

Where'd you buy the part? I'm looking for it. Also, is it just one part that you replaced? It's not real clear from the post exactly what was replaced?

Thanks!


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## bypsa (Sep 21, 2016)

Hello,
thank you for that description.
In Germany the Problem doesn´t occur until now, so we don´t have a description

Maybe you can order just the curtain and perhaps the 2 clips here, because the whole sunshade is not neccesary:

http://www.beststore-online.com/item?id=523003369212#3113469211226

Thanks


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## ceroberts75 (Nov 5, 2017)

do you still have the images that went with your write-up?

looks like the host has deleted them.

thanks.


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## sebacapo (Dec 16, 2017)

Can't see the pictures! I have the same problem with my sunshade!


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## sebacapo (Dec 16, 2017)

*Sun roof blinds*

I've seen you did this 3 years ago, it just heppened to me. I will try it my self but I can't see the pictures (new user).
It's there any place you have those pictures posted?
Thanks in advance from Argentina!


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## 18andTiguan (Mar 23, 2018)

Ditto all the above 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## [email protected] (Jan 15, 2019)

I hate to raise a thread from the dead, but could this same procedure be used to put my sunshade back on track? I'm not sure exactly what happened in the top but the sunshade doesn't move at all but I can hear the motor spinning. The sun roof still works perfectly and the shade is in good condition otherwise.


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## Wolfsburg007 (Apr 21, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> I hate to raise a thread from the dead, but could this same procedure be used to put my sunshade back on track? I'm not sure exactly what happened in the top but the sunshade doesn't move at all but I can hear the motor spinning. The sun roof still works perfectly and the shade is in good condition otherwise.


your clips may have broke. you would have to source new clips . a install kit. then try and align the tabs back up. it can be done.


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## bumiputera02 (Aug 18, 2019)

*some additional info*

Thanks to this forum, I was able to also replace my sunshade blind a couple weeks back. Mine finally gave out seven years later, as I bought this Tiguan new in December 2012 as a 2012 model. I said no to the dealer and decided to buy an aftermarket sunshade on eBay for about $50 shipped. Much cheaper than the $2k quoted at the dealer! Kindly find my notes below:

*KEY: You do not have to drop the headliner in order to access the sun shade!*

Tools required:

Ratchet tool (5/8" with 1/4" adapter)
T20 bit with 1/4" adapter to fit onto ratchet (I got one at ACE hardware for $6.99)
plastic trim removal tool (Autozone or Advanced Auto Parts will have this)
**a boatload of patience**

At the C pillar, there are three light grey plastics:
left C pillar, right C pillar, and rear center

The rear center may be removed without any concern; the two C pillars have a clip hidden behind the "AIRBAG" label (remove using plastic removal tool). This will be released with an upward and outward motion.

Next, we need to remove the rear sunroof glass. In order to do this, we must slide the glass back into service mode. This will reveal two T20 screws. Note the screws and the washer *under*. They may not be accessible, but they may be grabbed in the next step

Slide the sunshade forward to the closed position. This will allow for removal of the rear glass. In order to free the rear glass, there are four T20 screws hidden behind the rubber seal that the glass sits on. Each side will have two screws. The glass should be free with an upward motion towards the rear of the car. Do not forget to grab the two washers between where front and rear glass meet. These are for the two T20 screws removed in the previous step. Be sure to place the glass somewhere safe, so that there won't be something else needs replacing.

Go to the back of the car and pull down the rear headliner. There should be a clear view of the housing in which the sunshade. There will be two T20 screws, one on each side facing up. You will need a ratchet with an adapter for the T20 bit. This was, by far, the most difficult part along with the next step.

With the tray that houses the sunshade removed, take any remaining sunshade that is torn or torn. Looking from the top down Replace with the new sunshade. There will two metal tabs that need to removed. This may be accessed after unscrewing the two T20 screws and opening the clips. Under those clips, there will be access the the grey ends that hold the aluminum crossbar and the end of the sunshade that has the rubber blade that runs the length of the crossbar.

Take this time to assemble the sunshade. If you need more room to place the sunshade, you may remove one of the sides and insert metal pieces into the . Be sure to slide the aluminum , you will definitely a small tool like a screwdriver to guide the new tabs into place. There is not much room, so you have to be patient to do this on both sides. 

Putting the car back together is nothing compared to taking it apart. Key things to note are to ensure none of the screws are lost; place them in a place that is easy to retrieve. Also, having a magnetic end for screws and bolts will help tremendously. Good luck!


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## Wolfsburg007 (Apr 21, 2011)

I used dental floss to guide new guides into place. 

Sent from my Nokia 6.1 using Tapatalk


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## outtapdx (Jan 10, 2019)

*VW Panoramic Sunshade Repair*

When my sunshade failed, I went to dealership and they told me it wasn't covered by my extended warranty and it would cost $2k to repair.

I read several threads on this forum about this issue. So I clipped up the sunshade from hanging down and lived without it.

About 3 months after the shade fell down I began to get water in my car in the rain. I was so upset but I didn't know what to do it wasn't covered by my extended warranty
and I called several people to work on it but they couldn't guarantee it would not get soaked so I left it in my garage for 5 months.
Just drove on sunny days grocery getter.

Then one day I went to drive it and I got critical engine failure-now that was covered by my warrantee.
The last VW dealer who fixed my car held on to it for a month and put over 150 unexplained miles on it 
so I paid the extra to have it towed to a different dealership. I asked them to look at the sunshade.
The service manager said the drains for the sunroof got clogged and that caused the failure of the sunshade.
He told me that we need to get these drains cleaned ($80) at least 1x a year.
He told me that my auto insurance comprehensive would cover the replacement cost.
I didn't believe him but he insisted that I get in touch with them, and I did, and they did.
They paid most (wear and tear) I had a $100 deductible- it still took a month and they had to order a whole mew headliner because
the part for my model wasn't available.

3 months later my car started leaking again. apparently the drains in my doors (not involving the sunshade) had shrunk.
They fixed it without charge. But the sunshade repair was over $2800. my cost was $250.
So if you have a sunshade get those drains cleared and call your auto insurance provider.


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## donnyglaze (Jun 21, 2006)

Just did this myself, but with less success. I was able to close the shade fine, but when I retracted it, the clocksprings got all coiled and I ruined my new shade. I'm not sure where I went wrong. Does the metal clockspring follow in to the same channel as the plastic tabs? Does it go into a different channel? How do I keep those clocksprings from kinking up when the tension is off of them?


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## Dietmar (Sep 3, 2006)

donnyglaze said:


> Just did this myself, but with less success. I was able to close the shade fine, but when I retracted it, the clocksprings got all coiled and I ruined my new shade. I'm not sure where I went wrong. Does the metal clockspring follow in to the same channel as the plastic tabs? Does it go into a different channel? How do I keep those clocksprings from kinking up when the tension is off of them?


I woudl like to attempt this myself... and therefore ordered a new complete unit of the sunshade

does anybody have a somewhat complete DIY for this..

Got some open questions after watching youtube videos and posts for three days:

a.) Is the sunshade unit in any way connected to the motor ? Looks like it's close. 

b.) What are these metals clocksprings doing and where do they attach/detach. 

c.) Is the whole sunshade unti only held by 2 x T20 Torx ?

I have not seen the full sunshade unit yet... since i just ordered it... mine iust sagging but has not ripped yet so I assume it comes of with the aluminium crossbar ?


I have seen very detailed videos of how to remove the rear panoramic window but for the actual work on changing the sunshade nothing seems to be 100% complete.

Thanks for everyone that can chip in with some good advice...


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## Qmulus (Sep 5, 2015)

I just did the sunroof shade replacement on my daughter's Tiguan today, along with repairing a messed up sunroof drain that someone had "repaired" with another piece of hose some time ago that was the entirely wrong size. Luckily I had some appropriately sized tube and grabbed a quarter full tube of windshield installation urethane the the glass installer that put in a new windshield yesterday left. 

Sooo, I see that the new clips with upgraded metal inserts that came with the new sunshade fit differently than the original and made things a bit difficult to get the clip locked into the tab. It is obviously made that way to lock it in better, but I could not figure out for the life of me a good way to make sure it was locked in. I think it may not be totally locked in on the back side of the clip. I also found that in order to get the aluminum front rod on, which I could only do after the front tabs of the coils into their tracks (yes, there are specific tracks that you need to fit the coil into), I had to slide on the rod about a quarter way down the plastic, then feed plastic in the rest of the way with a thin plastic pry tool. The whole process of getting in all in correctly was a real PITA. It would probably be alot easier with the headliner out and with a helper; neither of which I had today. All in all, it took me two and a half hours, most of which was figuring out what order I needed to get the aluminum rod, clip and tabs of the coils in without bending the tabs, tearing the sunshade or damaging the new clips. I had it "almost" together two or three times, only to find something wasn't quite right, and I had to start over. 

Now that I have done it once, it will go quicker on my Tiguan, which also needs a new sunshade but I am NOT looking forward to it. On that one, I will probably use some fishing line to pull the metal coil tabs into the track. I may also see if I can feed the rod onto the plastic guide of the shade before getting the coil into the track. I may see if I can get some help also to get both sides lined up and fit at the same time. It is not fun with one person. All in all this is a job that will be a PITA the first time you do it, and hopefully you will never have to do it again to see if you learned something the first time. Unfortunately, I will be doing this again soon on mine.

P.S. Luckily the parts were cheap, like less than $50 shipped with the nice new sunshade and new clips. It does feel good to know that I saved $1000 or more by doing it myself.


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

If only someone made the sunshade with a solid fabric, instead of a mesh screen style...


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## Belegedhel (Jun 12, 2014)

Well, another data point for you: I did the disassembly, and it ran just over an hour--did not remove the headliner, just removed the C-pillars and loosened the plastics in the cargo compartment. One tip is that the obnoxious clip behind the SRS badge on the C-pillar plastic can be removed by stabbing a long flat-bladed screw-driver into the top of the clip to release it from the metal body. 

Putting it back together is more than a PITA. Fiddled with it for hours. The "new" style of clip on the new shade was near impossible to engage with everything lined up (which was near impossible in the first place). I ended up dremeling off the rear facing "cleat" on each plastic fitting side to make it work. Anyway, got everything in place, and did my first test run, and one side was hanging, and not riding in the track, even though the leading edge was properly in place. So I thought I might need to work it back and forth a bit to help it find equilibrium, but as soon as I reopened the blind, it bound enough in the rear that there was slack, and the miserable metal bands began to twist. 

What a sorry design. So tomorrow, I will do battle with it again, and try to straighten out the metal bands along the length, get them to coil properly, and then figure out why they didn't coil in the first place. I am starting to suspect that remove of the headliner may be in my future, that or a replacement automobile, as this one is burning more than a quart of oil per 1000 miles, and testing my resolve.


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## wagonetta (Feb 28, 2021)

So, *Belegedhel *were you able to finish the job...? At this point i have the headliner off and I am about to order my third screen due to the complete disaster of trying to lock in the aftermarket metal clips into the metal clockwork spring ends. In theory if everything is properly assembled it just work fine. In two weeks I should have my fully and properly operating shade.


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## Qmulus (Sep 5, 2015)

I don't think it is an "aftermarket metal clip" thing.From what I was told, the new factory parts have the same issue. When I do this job again, I think I will modify the metal on the clips to give them just enough play so they can lock in easier.

I laugh when I read the title of this thread. I think I had an hour's worth of cussing doing the job,


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## Belegedhel (Jun 12, 2014)

Well, I am many, many hours of cussing, into this job and still have not been successful. After my last post, I ordered the complete assembly, as I was worried that I had inadvertently changed the shape of the original shade housing and that there may have been something critical about where things lay. The aftermarket assembly I bought off of ebay for about $130 had these cutouts that had a razor edge burr on them, and I must have cut myself twice just handling the miserable thing before I realized what was happening. The housing didn't seem to line up correctly, as when the mounting bolt holes were lined up, the plastic "studs" that mate with the rails were barely engaged. I decided to forge ahead nonetheless, and eventually came to two great epiphanies. The first one was that this new part does not fit, will not fit, and the fabric was already peeling away from the clock spring before I even got busy trying to get the end of the spring into the groove. 

Second epiphany (and I feel like a total Gumby having to admit this), is that if you take the headliner down (which I did for this second attempt), it is plain to see that the metal strips should be fed into the groove (which will encompass BOTH sides of it) from the rear. The service manual (which is not very useful) does not make this clear, and instead gave me the impression that the strips were to be manipulated from above the car in that magic little access hatch through which you install the tabs and cross bar. I don't think I am the only one to make this mistake as I have read several other posts from unhappy DIYers all over the web saying that they had the same experience I had, getting everything in place, and the metal strip just falls out of the groove when the shade is extended. 

So, I will be sending the non-fitting finger slicer back to wherever it originated, and buying just the shade from the first place I bought from. I think after all this repetition, I have it figured out. The only question in my mind is that there is a little rounded tab on the shade housing. It has some felty stuff glued to it on the bottom side, but when I have pushed it into place, it rests easily below the groove assembly, making me wonder what it is there for (and why there is felt on the bottom. If I force things a bit, I can make it rest on top of the groove assembly, but it just seems to put things in something of a bind. 

I am sure that it is possible to do this job without dropping the headliner (per the original poster) but I only spent about an hour dropping it after making my first attempt with it in place. Not dropping it now seems like one of those "short-cuts" that costs you in the not-so long run. Anyway, I have attached some pics of "the tab" I refer to above, in the hopes that someone can tell me the correct way for it to sit.


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## Belegedhel (Jun 12, 2014)

Well, I finally finished this job. Won't be opening the shade, probably for the remainder of the time I own this vehicle. My hat is off to anyone who can do this repair in an hour. Dropping the headliner seemed to facilitate this operation a great deal, and it only added about an hour to the disassembly. One thing that I totally blew was there is a ribbon cable that attaches all of the ceiling lights to some sensor in the review mirror, and not noticing it, when I removed the headliner, I ripped the ribbon cable, and didn't even notice it until the reassembly. Luckily, I was able to solder in some jumpers and fix it. 

I have a serious suspicion that a VW mechanic would remove the motor assembly (or at least pull it out and down). This would leave enough room to bring the completely assembled shade assembly (side-tabs already installed on the clock springs, and crossbar in place) up and into the slides. If I had to do it again, I would try this, but then again, if I end up in a situation where I have to do this again, I would light the car on fire and walk away.


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