# Dreaded Cam Chain Tensioner = CEL, dilemma



## AndyTR32 (Jun 4, 2003)

2001 Audi A6 Avant AWD w/ 103k miles. 

Yesterday my check engine light came on for the "Bank 1 Cam Adjuster Valve: Possible Timing Belt Slip". This is from a generic Autozone scan. Had the same code about 7 months (3,000 miles) ago. I ended up just re-sealing both of the tensioners, replacing pcv and all other seals except for the cam sprockets. 

I noticed on the driver side bank (Bentley not handy so I'm not sure if this is bank 1 or 2, I think it's bank 2) that the upper chain guide pad on the tensioner had cracked off about a 1/2" and was just floating around in the valve cover. I needed the car for monday and just said F it and put everything back together. 

Should I replace the passenger side tensioner and just the pad on the driver's side? 

Long story short, how bad is it for the tensioner to run with the cracked pad? 

Could I potentially clear the code and drive the car until the CEL comes back? Am I looking at catastrophic engine failure if the tensioner fails completely? 

I really only need this car for about another year (5k miles MAX) so I really don't want to drop $700 on a tensioner, pads and new valve cover gaskets. 

Thanks for the help, 

Andy 

Edit: Holy crap, is this legit? $255 for the tensioner! http://www.amazon.com/Tensioner-078109088C-078109088H-Allroad-Volkswagen/dp/B002NTIM5G


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

I don't know if you can get just the pad. If the tensioner fails, it will sound like Grandpa's old Ferguson tractor, but it shouldn't break anything, unless you leave it too long afterwards. 

Yes. That's legit. The tensioners really are that are insanely expensive. 

And, speaking of the Bentley, there's a typo. The number of chain links between the marks on the caps is not the same on both banks. I can't remember which side their information is correct for, or whether it's one more or one less link on the other side.


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## AndyTR32 (Jun 4, 2003)

O_o said:


> I don't know if you can get just the pad. If the tensioner fails, it will sound like Grandpa's old Ferguson tractor, but it shouldn't break anything, unless you leave it too long afterwards.
> 
> Yes. That's legit. The tensioners really are that are insanely expensive.
> 
> And, speaking of the Bentley, there's a typo. The number of chain links between the marks on the caps is not the same on both banks. I can't remember which side their information is correct for, or whether it's one more or one less link on the other side.


Hmm thanks for the headsup up, I think I saw something about this on Audiworld. 

I ordered the Right side tensioner, tool, gasket set & set of pads for the left side for about $400 total. Tearing it down Saturday morning.


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## rayj (Jun 10, 2009)

Hi, i may need to do this myself. Is it nearly the same as doing the timing belt in difficulty? Which procedure do you follow? internet, bentley? other?

thanks


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

rayj said:


> Hi, i may need to do this myself. Is it nearly the same as doing the timing belt in difficulty? Which procedure do you follow? internet, bentley? other?
> 
> thanks


Definitely easier than a timing belt job. There's got to be a DIY out there.


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

Can't find a DIY for the 2.8, but basically, follow the instructions for the valve-cover gasket kit you will be needing. You will then need to add a few steps. I can't tell you exactly what those are, but it should be something like the following:

Put the engine at TDC. Mark the chain and both sprockets (in case something slips). Once you have the old VCG off, you will need to remove the intake camshaft, and loosen the exhaust side caps, but only remove the exhaust cap nearest the chain. There is a particular order for removing the caps that you need to follow. Lift and sort of rotate the intake camshaft and tensioner so they come out together. Replace the tensioner with the new one. Assemble in reverse order.

Hope this helps.


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

Oh, and make sure you clean and oil the cam journals, and have the torque specs for the caps. I think it's 7 ft-lbs, but I could be wrong.


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## AndyTR32 (Jun 4, 2003)

O_o said:


> Can't find a DIY for the 2.8, but basically, follow the instructions for the valve-cover gasket kit you will be needing. You will then need to add a few steps. I can't tell you exactly what those are, but it should be something like the following:
> 
> Put the engine at TDC. Mark the chain and both sprockets (in case something slips). Once you have the old VCG off, you will need to remove the intake camshaft, and loosen the exhaust side caps, but only remove the exhaust cap nearest the chain. There is a particular order for removing the caps that you need to follow. Lift and sort of rotate the intake camshaft and tensioner so they come out together. Replace the tensioner with the new one. Assemble in reverse order.
> 
> Hope this helps.


I'll see what Bentley says tonight but here's a DIY for replacing the seals (they don't remove the tensioner to do this) which will give you some idea:
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng.html
Scroll down to valve cover / cam seals under A6. Its for the 2.7t but the tensioner and everything fromthe valve cover down is the same.


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## AndyTR32 (Jun 4, 2003)

Here's a DIY for tensioner replacement:
http://m.audiforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=101340


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## AndyTR32 (Jun 4, 2003)

O_o said:


> Oh, and make sure you clean and oil the cam journals, and have the torque specs for the caps. I think it's 7 ft-lbs, but I could be wrong.


7 ft-lbs is correct. It's also recommended to put the cap screws back in the place (caps are mandatory).


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## rayj (Jun 10, 2009)

AndyTR32 said:


> I'll see what Bentley says tonight but here's a DIY for replacing the seals (they don't remove the tensioner to do this) which will give you some idea:
> http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng.html
> Scroll down to valve cover / cam seals under A6. Its for the 2.7t but the tensioner and everything fromthe valve cover down is the same.


Brilliant! You're a star man!:thumbup:

And extra kudos to the man who did the write up. I've never seen better close ups of the work. :thumbup::thumbup:


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

AndyTR32 said:


> 7 ft-lbs is correct. It's also recommended to put the cap screws back in the place (caps are mandatory).


:laugh:


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

AndyTR32 said:


> Here's a DIY for tensioner replacement:
> http://m.audiforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=101340


I prefer to just remove the intake camshaft, but that works too.


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## AndyTR32 (Jun 4, 2003)

O_o said:


> I don't know if you can get just the pad. If the tensioner fails, it will sound like Grandpa's old Ferguson tractor, but it shouldn't break anything, unless you leave it too long afterwards.
> 
> Yes. That's legit. The tensioners really are that are insanely expensive.
> 
> And, speaking of the Bentley, there's a typo. The number of chain links between the marks on the caps is not the same on both banks. I can't remember which side their information is correct for, or whether it's one more or one less link on the other side.


Oh how I wish I reasearched this more thoroughly. Bank 1 (RHS/ Passenger) is NOT 16 links. FML.


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

AndyTR32 said:


> Oh how I wish I reasearched this more thoroughly. Bank 1 (RHS/ Passenger) is NOT 16 links. FML.


Just PM'ed you, but for the benefit of others who may find this thread, 16 is correct for bank 1. It is 14.5-15 on bank 2. However, when they say "16 links" they are counting both links the arrows point at, so the distance between the arrows is the spacing of 15 links.


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## AndyTR32 (Jun 4, 2003)

Okay so here's the deal. I reinstalled everything at TDC with 16 links between the cam markings. For some reason my cylinder 2 cam to cap mark was a bit off. Torqued it all down and fired her up. 

Loud clicking like a bad lifter. CEL started to flash so I shut it down figuring it was off a tooth. Here are the results of my Vad mobile scan. 



























Seems like it's out of time but I thinks it's the cam alignment. I suppose it could be the position sensor but I'm clueless. Any thoughts/help is greatly appreciated. 

ALWAYS, always count the links before you tear down. 

Thanks,

Andy


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## AndyTR32 (Jun 4, 2003)

Also, for anyone else who stumbles upon this thread, it's MUCH easier to get to the crank bolt to turn the motor by hand if you remove the electric fan (3 screws).


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## AndyTR32 (Jun 4, 2003)

I just had a revelation. I think I forgot to plug the cam tensioner back in. Doh! Too bad I tore it all back down without looking everything over. I just figured it was off a tooth by the way it sounded.

Apparently the ticking is normal untill the tensioner refills with oil. Once the cell started flashing I freaked thinking I had bent a valve. I will set it back to 16 and update my thread tonight. 

BTW, I dropped a 1/4" extension into never never land. While digging around for it I found one of the still new half moon seals that I had provided to a mechanic shop in town to replace my cam tensioner seals. Turns out he never replaced them, he just RTV'd the living piss out of the area around my tesnioner. So it's likely that the tensioner wasn't even bad to begin with 

Also, while fishing out the extension, I noticed I have a torn CV boot on my passenger side front axle. It's always something. 

A big :beer: to you  for the help so far. :thumbup: :thumbup:


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