# Innovate LC1 Problems, Mostly Solved



## jetdavdub (Mar 13, 2006)

*Innovate LC1 Problems, Mostly Solved - SOLVED*

Looks like I have my wiring right now. :sly: Well then again who knows, but the gauge is reading something finally. 

Anyhow the gauge is telling me my sensor is shot and that's because I fried it running it plugged in without it being plugged into the system so the gauge is reading 50.04 LOL 

Per the gauge troubleshooting it says that if it reads that number the sensor is not sending accurate data and needs to be replaced. 

Also though my LED isn't lighting up... would this happen if it didn't sense the sensor operating correctly? 

I've ran the re-calibration several times, not really sure if it was done properly because no LED to show me.


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## jetdavdub (Mar 13, 2006)

More on this topic. Brand new sensor still reads 50.04 after I do the calibrations when out of the exhaust stream. When I plugged it into the exhaust stream it is reading 20-29 on the gauge. When I revved it it did go down to a richer number. Things definitely are not right. I've checked over my wiring 50 times and it's getting disappointing! Come on wiring pro's with vr's give me some tips. I've emailed Innovate too, hopefully they'll get back to me soon.


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## VDub Dan-O (Mar 24, 2010)

Have you connected it to your computer's serial port and programmed it? Maybe it has some funky settings set in it for what voltages are rich and lean. 

What gauge are you running?


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## jetdavdub (Mar 13, 2006)

the gauge is from Dynotune... it is set to work with it right out of the box on the yellow wire output. Which leads me to wonder if the brown wire output is different? Also I don't have a way to hook it up to the computer because I don't have a serial port or the serial to usb adapter atm. Also still thinking the LED should be on regardless and I've checked it many times for correct wiring. I mean I am getting some sort of reading on the gauge but no LED, I realize it's optional and I've re-calibrated several times. Chime in pros


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## VDub Dan-O (Mar 24, 2010)

It still might be a good idea to see what settings are programmed into the LC1. 
BTW, just cuz I'm a new guy doesn't mean I'm not a pro. 
 

I have lots of experience with the LC-1's 
Try the brown wire and see what it does. 
The yellow wire is the simulated narrowband.


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## VDub Dan-O (Mar 24, 2010)

Link to the gauge and it's specs?


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## jetdavdub (Mar 13, 2006)

the gauge is here :http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=171 

Page with all of them is here: It's the one that is just a readout that is rectangular. 
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodlist.asp?idcategory=44 

I looked it up and the brown has different spec than the yellow by default. I had it on the brown, so I moved it to the yellow rewired all grounds and taped them up. Led still not working. Is it possible to fry the LED. I think one night my friend may have hooked it up to the 12v and blew it if that is possible?


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## VDub Dan-O (Mar 24, 2010)

jetdavdub said:


> I think one night my friend may have hooked it up to the 12v and blew it if that is possible?


 Most definitely! Most LEDs are low power devices and powering them straight to 12v usually pops them. 

As far as the readout, I didn't find a spec sheet on what it's input voltage range is supposed to be. 
It might be a good idea to buy a $4 USB cable from eBay at this point to aid in diagnosis.


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## jetdavdub (Mar 13, 2006)

So by having it run inline but blown wouldn't that make it so the circuit can't complete... as far as the calibration wire going to the red wire on the led which then goes to the ground..... it wouldn't be able to calibrate correctly? I'll get one of those cables asap. They have them for like 20 at the local comp store but 4 dollars is better LOL thanks


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## jetdavdub (Mar 13, 2006)

What would be a reasonable number to see on the gauge at idle I read they aren't gonna read14.7 necessarily. I did have 20. When hooked to the brown output wire. Whereas 1.0 after switching to the yellow one.


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## VDub Dan-O (Mar 24, 2010)

I've seen several different readings, some a little rich, some a little lean.
My last boosted vehicle idled at 14.7:1, it was mesmerizing to see it perfectly at stoch at idle. (I'd never had one do that before)

The blown LED shouldn't make a difference in calibration. The LED is optional for feedback to let you know what the LC-1 is doing.
Do you have an install sheet on the gauge?


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## VDub Dan-O (Mar 24, 2010)

I also wanted to add that the LC-1 is sensitive to grounding issues.


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## jetdavdub (Mar 13, 2006)

I have the manual for the gauge, yes.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Find another LED and check for error codes, and/or get the serial working and check it.


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## jetdavdub (Mar 13, 2006)

Ok, well I'm still at work but I have an old computer with a serial port. I also snagged a usb / serial connector if I just use my laptop. Also got another LED that is super cool and easy to mount in my plastic next to the pushbutton. So when I get home I'll check it out and post some results.


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## jetdavdub (Mar 13, 2006)

Well the light works correctly so I have correct operation of the lc-1. Lights stays steady after a series of flashing at start up. Also on my computer I get a readout on the log works software. For some reason it won't connect to the LM programmer. Says connect to serial port and switch on. This is even while it is still giving signal on the log works so I know it is connecting. I don't know why it will work on one and not the other? I did find out the analog output needs to be configured so I have to have the lm programmer working to change it. I know sometimes the different cables will not work for certain things. I hooked it up to an old school computer with a regular serial port too and it still says connect to serial port and switch it on.


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## Autoboost-tech (Dec 27, 2009)

did you have the terminator plug in the lc1 rca jack output? the lm programmer wont work without it in!


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## jetdavdub (Mar 13, 2006)

yes sir... it will show real time data for logworks , but cannot get the lm programmer to start.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Make sure you have Logworks closed when you try the LM programmer, it won't grab the port while the other is active.


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## jetdavdub (Mar 13, 2006)

Ok will do that as well in my run-around trying to get this to hook up. 

Also someone said. 

1. plug in serial/usb converter into comp
2. Turn on car
3. connect serial cable to converter cable
4 Start program

Do you need to do it in this order for it to work as well? 

Also I was looking into my com ports in device manager. Can the LM programmer only read them up to a certain com port number as in 2 or 4 ? or could it be 13 as my device hooked up on 13 to log works.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

I'm honestly not sure how high the programmer goes. It's easy enough to change the COMM port your adapter uses in device manager if you don't have any luck.


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## crashnburn987 (May 11, 2004)

VDub Dan-O said:


> I also wanted to add that the LC-1 is sensitive to grounding issues.


I will second this as well. Any issues I have had with my LC-1 have been related to bad grounds.


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