# Turbo oil return line



## jsalisbury88 (Aug 25, 2014)

Mainly a question for 2.5T owners, but if others know the answer please feel free to respond.

Getting ready to turbo my 2.5, pretty excited, but was wondering where I am going to end up having to install the turbo oil return line. The lower pan seems pretty shallow and I find it hard to believe that the oil level will be below where the lower pan connects to the upper pan. The following thread seems to infer just take the lower pan off and get the fitting welded on to that, but I have reservations to that. Would it be ok to do that solely because when the car is running the amount of oil actually in the lower pan will be significantly lower than when the car is at rest? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4614910-How-to-Turbo-a-2.5-i5-jetta-rabbit-on-a-budget


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## mjb8482 (Mar 4, 2008)

I'd venture to say 99% of us use the lower pan. I haven't had any issues in 15K+ miles since turbo. Good luck! :beer:


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## killerbunny (Jul 10, 2008)

mjb8482 said:


> I'd venture to say 99% of us use the lower pan. I haven't had any issues in 15K+ miles since turbo. Good luck! :beer:


I was one of the unlucky ones who had issues using the lower pan. I would only get smoking if the car was idling for a few minutes, when moving around and with more oil circulating I did not have an issue. Others who ran into this problem used restrictors on the feed line, I did not like the idea of using a restrictor on a journal bearing turbo (on what I was told was an acceptable oil pressure for the turbo). I ended up pulling the upper pan, and welding a bung on. Removing the upper pan is a pain, you have to pull the lower pan, trans, clutch/flywheel, bolts behind the flywheel and a few other things. 

Talking with others/theorizing a bit, it seems like a lot of the issues stem from weak oil seal in the turbo itself, there have been oem cars that drain low in an oil pan, iirc the 1.8ts do. I think this problem is seen with a lot with jb precision turbos, I was warned of weak seals by some friends before buying my turbo. If your turbo is a BB precision unit or maybe another brand issues don't seem as likely. 

There are plenty of guys running turbos who have not had any issues at all with draining into the lower pan, so who really knows. Hope this helps in some way.


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## jsalisbury88 (Aug 25, 2014)

Definitely helps, thank you both for your responses. I was hoping to get that answer...as you mentioned the upper pan is a pain to get off if something goes wrong...

Cheers!


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

You can also use the crankshaft timing pin hole (by the front-main seal plate). It's cast in to the block, and is higher than even the lower oil pan. Or drill/tap the block.


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## aquino (Mar 12, 2007)

I'm running a scavenge pump. Feeds oil into the lower pan. Without it my turbo smoked.


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## killerbunny (Jul 10, 2008)

aquino said:


> I'm running a scavenge pump. Feeds oil into the lower pan. Without it my turbo smoked.


What setup do you have? Electric or mechanical? I had also considered using a scavenge pump.


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## aquino (Mar 12, 2007)

Top mount jdl. I'm ising an electric turbowerx mini mounted to the subframe with a home made bracket


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## mjb8482 (Mar 4, 2008)

mjb8482 said:


> I'd venture to say 99% of us use the lower pan. I haven't had any issues in 15K+ miles since turbo. Good luck! :beer:


Update to this: turbo did start to smoke this summer. That's after about 30K since install. Would happen mostly on hot starts and after long idles. Unclear what caused it, but could be this. 

Sold the car in the fall, so never solved it.

However, I will be building another 2.5T, so I'll get another data point. :beer:


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