# DIY: Monroe: Load Adjusting Shock Absorbers Part 58648 Install



## routan2010se (Jun 17, 2013)

I am doing this for my hitch install, which I have done, a class III Curt hitch, which I picked because the ends were boxed closed, and it fit well, was a little tricky getting the muffler out of the way, plus never could get the right torque specs! Next project is the OEM 7 Pin Tow Plug and the Oil Cooler for the 3.8L Engine. Anyways on to the install.

What you will need:
Wheel Chucks
2 Jacks
Long 18MM Socket
Short 18MM Socket
Small 18MM Closed Wrench with angle
Long 19MM Socket
Short Cheater Pipe
Torque Wrench for 55 and 100FtLbs
Penetrating Oil
Jack stand


Start with your car on a level spot, place the wheel chucks on the diagonal corner of the wheel you will be removing. i.e. if you are doing rear right side side, you want to do front left side for the wheel chucks.

Either with the factory socket wrench or your own 19mm deep wrench loosen all the nuts on the wheel you are working on.

Jack under the car on the wide flat spot, just in front of the wheel, there are two nubs on the seem that I assume represent the jack point, although less safe, I chose to use the factory jack, since my other jack would damage the car a little.

After the car is jacked, I placed a jack stand forward of the jack for safety.

I then remove the wheel.

I then took my pneumatic jack and placed it under the wheel hub on the wishbone suspension.

You can now see the two bolts and nuts you have to remove.

I sprayed some penetrating oil on the nuts and bolts and waited a few.

Now the fun part:

You have to be careful around the top bolts, depending on the side of the car you are one, you either have a/c lines or brake lines, or fuel filler tubes.

Taking the 18MM wrench, you should be able to get it behind and flush on the nut on top, the angle of the wrench helps too, using the cheater pipe that I had which was about a foot long I was able to break it loose.



















Once you have the nut off, use the pneumatic jack to raise or lower the suspension to make the bolt eye loose in the shock so it slides out the bolt easily.










Bottom is same deal, just work slow and patient.










I started with putting the new shock top in first, placing the cap slot facing down so any road junk wont collect in it.

Tighten that bolt but not all the way, then replace the bottom, using the pneumatic jack to adjust height to get the bolt in easy.

After they are snug, tighten the bolts to 55FtLBs of torque top and bottom.










Replace your wheel then tighten in star pattern, not too tight!

Lower the car and tighten lug nuts to 100FtLbs of torque.

Repeat for second side.

Take car for a ride, then after a bit, re-check your lug nuts for proper torque.

I measured before I swapped, from the top of the VW Center cap to the bottom of the fender, and it was about 15ish, at the end it was about 16ish after 1 mile of driving, will measure again later.










Took me about 1.25 hours per side, second was easier once I had a plan.

Hardest part is I really did not want to get under the car as I am paranoid of it falling on me


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## PaulAP (May 21, 2009)

Nice write up :beer::thumbup:

I plan on doing this once my shocks get a little tired. I mostly use my hitch for carrying bikes, or towing my small tent trailer.

Do you notice any difference in the ride quality?


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## routan2010se (Jun 17, 2013)

We have 116k on ours, so wasn't too worried about replacing them early  I bought the car about 1 year ago with a little over 100k, so I can't comment on the original feel. I did drive a rental 2013 T&C last year, that felt the same in handling as the Routan.

The butt meter says, that when we go over a speed bump, the car does not bounce as much as it used to, but with that many miles on the originals, hard to say if that was the issue before.

The wife says she doesn't feel the car shake in the back as much and it feels more stable when she hits bumps, holes, etc.

Considering the parts pulled off had chrysler logos, I wonder if the stock ones were the same for all the 2010 T&C, etc. Most reviews online said their vans felt better, but that was with the so called "un-tuned" Chrysler suspension, so I was hesitating if I was going to make things worse not better! I also have the extra 56lbs sitting back there now with the Curt hitch. Looks crazy having a 2 inch receiver on a minivan!

My main reason for doing this is for a heavier load and to make the car as much like the factory with the nivomats, hitch, harness, oil cooler etc. I don't plan to go to 3600lbs for towing, but I do want to get close to the max 2k, and I figure this should make it more "factory" like.

I saw some folks got heavy duty bump stops as well, but I felt that was over kill for $200, since that is what I spent on the hitch and shocks!

http://www.etrailer.com/Vehicle-Suspension/Timbren/TJRJK.html I guess the nivomat suspension has something more like this.










Shocks can be had for around 90$ shipped, also they look cooler than stock  Not that you can see them again!

Eyeballing the car, I was worried it would get a jacked look, but after running errands today I can't tell the ride height is any different than before.

Installing this should be fun as I have to solder onto the factory harness:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar-Accessories/293/82210857AC/10002/-1?parentProductId=2892438


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## PaulAP (May 21, 2009)

routan2010se said:


> Installing this should be fun as I have to solder onto the factory harness:
> http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar-Accessories/293/82210857AC/10002/-1?parentProductId=2892438


Thanks for the detailed follow up :thumbup:

My advise (I know that you didn't ask for it), I wouldn't use that harness simply due to the cost. A quick search turns up a few plug&play harnesses for $35 or less.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006B3DB4C?pc_redir=1397031117&robot_redir=1
http://www.autoanything.com/towing/60A3391A0A0.aspx
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trk...nkw=118490+routan+harness+&_sacat=0&_from=R40
http://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-...Routan/2010/118490.html?vehicleid=20101176720
http://www.hitchanything.com/2012-Volkswagen-Routan-T-One-Tow-Ready-118490.html
http://www.uhaul.com/MovingSupplies/Quick-connects/Volkswagen/Quick-Connect-118490?id=15266

Actually, I think they are all the same one, as they all have part# 118490


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## routan2010se (Jun 17, 2013)

Thanks, none of those are 7 Pin, and I wanted the ability to have electric brakes with a controller.

All the non oem ones have you install the 4 pin, then run a retrofit to the front of the car, just like OEM, except cutting and soldering under the dash vs, under the TIPM in the engine bay.

I already bought the harness for around $90 somewhere, so not too crazy compared to list.

My kids are still small, the van was cheap, so might risk ruining it with one of these sub dry 1900 LBs beast:

http://www.livinlite.com/camplite11fdb-overview.php










The weight is near the max tow capacity with non of the mods I am doing, so adding brakes, shocks, oil cooler (and all the parts lookup looks like we have the same tranny cooler as the tow cars) should give that little bit extra I want.

The only no no for this is the front has more than 1.8x or so the front surface area Chryslers says is OK.

This is for a 2010 Caravan and Town and Country, which shows the smaller SE equivalent can do 3600lbs with the correct items.










My research says I think these are the parts I need to upgrade the motor to have oil cooling:
Engine:
BOLT AND WASHER, Hex Head Part # 06101452 $3.50
BOLT, Hex Flange Head Part # 06105062AA $2.45
CONNECTOR, Oil Filter Part # 53007563AB $8.85
FITTING, Engine Oil Cooler Part # 04387822 $16.95
COOLER, Engine Oil Part # 04694338AC $143.00 VW Part No. 7B0117021 fits MI2 3.8L
HOSE AND TUBE, Heater Return Part # 04677586AH $108.00
HOSE, Oil Cooler Outlet Part # 04677584AB $16.25
SEAL, Engine Oil Cooler Part # 05093807AA $9.60
TUBE, Water Inlet Part # 04781537AC $55.10


Otherwise may do the A frame pop up trailers.

http://www.aliner.com/campers


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