# Corrado G60 ABA bottom-end swap - Idle issue



## Pottery_Pal (Jul 13, 2009)

fellow members,

i am in the final stretch of completing a 2.0L ABA bottom end swap (full rebuild) with a stock 1.8L top end. everything is back together and running. my problem is the idle is hunting once it warms up and if you rev it above 4k I get a bit of rattling/knocking.

the timing is good, double and triple checked, what are the possible causes?

1. CO pot adjustment needed?
2. dizzy problem? (currently running new aba modified dizzy)
3. too much vacuum forcing too much fuel pressure in rail ?

or something else?

my mechanic is scatching his head on this one. any feedback from those with pertinent experience is much appreciated

opcorn:


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

Was bottom good, main and connecting rod bearing good or replaced? What compression are you using. Stock will be 10:1, double gasket bring down to 9:1 cr. As far dizzy conern, aba dizzy are 1 window unit compare to digifant is 4 windows.you need 4 window in dist. 2 ways doing this, 1 is swap 4 window into the aba dist with aba gear. 2nd way is buy techtonics tuning dist adapter and using aba gear on it. You may contact techtonic tuning or BBM to make chip for your application. Possible need 30# injectors. 

I'm using SNS stage 4 chip specific made for aba setup with 30# injectors. I hope it something easy,
Also co-pot should be set around 450ohms. You should be fine ard 400 to 500 ohms range. And vacuum going to be ard 15 inch of vacuum, higher will indicate advanced timing, low vacuum will be retard in timing. 12 to 15 inch vacuum is ideal. Check with bentley book to set basic timing.


----------



## Pottery_Pal (Jul 13, 2009)

chc-rado said:


> Was bottom good, main and connecting rod bearing good or replaced? What compression are you using. Stock will be 10:1, double gasket bring down to 9:1 cr. As far dizzy conern, aba dizzy are 1 window unit compare to digifant is 4 windows.you need 4 window in dist. 2 ways doing this, 1 is swap 4 window into the aba dist with aba gear. 2nd way is buy techtonics tuning dist adapter and using aba gear on it. You may contact techtonic tuning or BBM to make chip for your application. Possible need 30# injectors.
> 
> I'm using SNS stage 4 chip specific made for aba setup with 30# injectors. I hope it something easy,
> Also co-pot should be set around 450ohms. You should be fine ard 400 to 500 ohms range. And vacuum going to be ard 15 inch of vacuum, higher will indicate advanced timing, low vacuum will be retard in timing. 12 to 15 inch vacuum is ideal. Check with bentley book to set basic timing.



1. Bottom end is good, new bearings all around. 
2. Do not know what the CR is at this time. But we are running stock gasket so let's assume 10:1 CR.
3. The ABA dizzy has been modified to the 4 window unit for digifant.
4. Right now I am running TT stage 1 chip, stock 1.8L G60 cam and stock G60 injectors.
5. Will check the CO-Pot today. 
6. Currently running ~20" of vacuum at idle


Any additional comments with the detailed info?


opcorn:


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

20 inch vacuum too high- once again related to timing. Being too advanced. Follow the step in setting basic timing and idle adjustment. 6btdc is where want to be. Idle should be 800+-50. that with blue sensor unplugged and crankcase hose vent to fresh air. You can have vacuum gauge hook up to with rpm pickup on multi-meter if have one. Just make idle screw is good "o-ring" and isv is clean and adjusted properly too. I be worry on chip your using on this setup. Once all figured out, your set up going to pull hard with right chip and fueling. Lastly, make sure knock sensor torque to 20nm(15in/ib) and in good shape too.


----------



## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

CHC rado nailed it, I would say to advanced timing due to the high idle vacume and knocking/detonation you are hearing in the rpms.
I have 1 last copy of the chip i ran in my ABA G60's w/ 310cc inj's at 3bar fpr 260 268 cam
or straight 268. works great and passes emissions test.


----------



## Pottery_Pal (Jul 13, 2009)

chc-rado said:


> 20 inch vacuum too high- once again related to timing. Being too advanced. Follow the step in setting basic timing and idle adjustment. 6btdc is where want to be. Idle should be 800+-50. that with blue sensor unplugged and crankcase hose vent to fresh air. You can have vacuum gauge hook up to with rpm pickup on multi-meter if have one. Just make idle screw is good "o-ring" and isv is clean and adjusted properly too. I be worry on chip your using on this setup. Once all figured out, your set up going to pull hard with right chip and fueling. Lastly, make sure knock sensor torque to 20nm(15in/ib) and in good shape too.



Many thanks. I'll put our focus here.


----------



## efritsch (Aug 21, 2002)

Sorry to highjack the thread but I'm doing the same thing in my Syncro and I am curious about converting the distributor. Do all I have to do is pull the hall sensor and the 4 window part out of the G60 one and drop it into the ABA one?


----------



## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

You can or the easiest thing to do is use the G60 Dist with the ABA gear. add the TT Adaptor ring and you are good to go.


----------



## efritsch (Aug 21, 2002)

REPOMAN said:


> I have 1 last copy of the chip i ran in my ABA G60's w/ 310cc inj's at 3bar fpr 260 268 cam or straight 268. works great and passes emissions test.


Still have that chip? I'm running almost that exact setup, except I have a 3.5bar fpr and I'm not sure what injectors the setup came with.


----------



## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

yes i have the 1 left, $75 shipped. it is the one i made 230whp with.
15-22psi 3 bar fpr red top 310cc inj's w/ 268 cam lysholm. will work with G charger 
on ABA or PG.


----------



## Pottery_Pal (Jul 13, 2009)

I wanted to come back to my post and update those interested. 

A quick recap of the setup on my newly rebuilt G60, 8V/2L ABA:


1. Bottom end is good, new bearings all around. 
2. Do not know what the CR is at this time. But we are running stock gasket so let's assume 10:1 CR.
3. The ABA dizzy has been modified to the 4 window unit for digifant.
4. Sent TT stage 1 chip to TT for reprogramming. Received it back and installed in ECU and car idle has improved with no more detonation. 
5. TT stage ? (reprogrammed recently) chip, stock 1.8L G60 cam and stock G60 injectors. Stock Charger pulley.
6. Mechanic adjusted CO-Pot to 600 ohms (need to confirm)


With all the above and the new programming the car is now pig rich. :banghead::banghead:

So, based on my setup I am having difficulty believing I am the first guy to have this setup on a hybrid rebuild. 

We have decided to send the chip back to TT for reprogramming again. My question is; does anyone have any real world experience on the same or nearly the same configuration? 

Any comments with the detailed info is much appreciated. I fear my mechanic and TT are going to go back a forth several times before they get it right.


opcorn:opcorn:


----------



## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

get the specifics on what the program is tuned for.
What cam/ FPR. if the fpr is bigger then the one tuned for the fuel will be fat across the rpm range.
G60 injectors are 260cc ABA injectors are 190cc. so if the program is tuned for the ABA ECU
then the green 260cc inj's are going to put alot more fuel in across the fuel range.
:beer::beer:


----------



## Pottery_Pal (Jul 13, 2009)

REPOMAN said:


> get the specifics on what the program is tuned for.
> What cam/ FPR. if the fpr is bigger then the one tuned for the fuel will be fat across the rpm range.
> G60 injectors are 260cc ABA injectors are 190cc. so if the program is tuned for the ABA ECU
> then the green 260cc inj's are going to put alot more fuel in across the fuel range.
> :beer::beer:



stock cam and FPR. good info on the injector differences. thanks again for your input REPOMAN. :thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## Pottery_Pal (Jul 13, 2009)

quick update...

chip had to be completely re-mapped. Expecting to have it back together this week. I'll let you all know how it goes.

:thumbup:


----------



## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

Glad to help, Let us know how it works out.
:beer::beer:


----------



## Pottery_Pal (Jul 13, 2009)

well after much :banghead: :banghead:

TT remapped the chip and the mechanic found the hybrid dizzy hall sender mis-aligned.

I got to take the car out for a short ride today and I must say my 2.0L aba bottom end swap (complete rebuild), flywheel lightening & aftermarket SS 4-1 exhaust header, she is running quite good. it definately has a lot more pick up when you get on it over the original tired 1.8L.

i have a couple loose ends to finish and i will have it back on the road very soon. pics soon to follow.

all i have left to do is brake work and would love to do a complete re-spray (if i can keep my wife from making me sell it) 

i love this rado even if it is a money pit!

eace:


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

I'm glad your engine set up doing good. at least your enjoying driving your rado again.:thumbup: I drive mine everyday. Love ABA bottom end. Mine 9:1 cr with stock pulley. With 260-268 cam. Also with 30# injectors. It passes emission and moves. At times, I throw in smaller pulley(68) just to feel extra power.


----------



## Pottery_Pal (Jul 13, 2009)

Well.......

My Rado is all back together and running very well. 

A quick rundown of the improvements:

1. 2.0L ABA bottom end complete rebuild. (hone, new rings, new bearings, new seals)
2. New FPR, new hybrid dizzy
3. Lightened Flywheel
4. New condenser & recharge (man that shiz is cold!!!!)
5. New air condition Sensor Swtich
6. Charger Seal kit
7. New plugs (NGK)
8. New 4 into 1 SS exhaust header
9. All fluids replaced (Oil, MT, PS, Coolant)
10. TT Chip remap
11. New CV boots, bearings re-packed



She is running really well, passed emissions and I am getting ~32mpg in mixed driving.   

I do have more work to do though :facepalm: :laugh::

1. Alignment is out on camber and toe a bit and my tie rod end are seized.
2. Rotors and pads all around

Below are some pics of the rebuilt engine bay and exterior.





















































Thanks for watching :thumbup: :beer: opcorn:


----------



## ddavis15710 (Feb 13, 2012)

Hey pottery pal, my pg bottom end just took a **** and burnt the rings. I was wanting to know what if any modifications needed to be done to the stock g60 harness to run the aba block. Also, does the stock coolant flange match up? Does timing work the same as far as the belt and gears more specifically the intermediate shaft.... basically how do you do it lol


----------



## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

That's great. I glad it's running good. Hell your getting better Gas mileage then my 16V ABA Turbo.

My old ABA Lysholm Corrado Hooked and Booked back in 2002-2010 Ran a best 13.7 @ 102mph

Search my user name and ABA G60 swap 
It's an old thread but I think the pics still work.
:beer::beer:


----------



## Pottery_Pal (Jul 13, 2009)

ddavis15710 said:


> Hey pottery pal, my pg bottom end just took a **** and burnt the rings. I was wanting to know what if any modifications needed to be done to the stock g60 harness to run the aba block. Also, does the stock coolant flange match up? Does timing work the same as far as the belt and gears more specifically the intermediate shaft.... basically how do you do it lol


ddavis, 

I had a local vw specialist rebuild my motor. Basically, four things needed modification from stock:

1. The upper mounting bracket for the charger had to be made custom to adapt to the change in block/head height.
2. The charger oil return line was re-routed into the oil pan 
3. The ecu chip had to be sent to TT to be retuned.
4. The dizzy need a new gear to match it up to the ABA block.

We also did some small re-routing of the coolant lines above the oil cooler assy but it was minor..

IIRC everything else was plug and play. I hope this was helpful for you. 

good luck!:beer::beer:


----------

