# 16v Digifant 1 FAQ



## 130_R (May 24, 2001)

Should be pretty self explanitory, same rules apply as the general FAQ. 
The *Search Function* is your friend, use this first before posting *any* question as the chances are 110% your question has been asked before! 
General Info:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=777340
Motronic to Digifant info:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=937130
Injector Bucket info:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1303064




_Modified by 130_R at 10:44 AM 5-1-2004_


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## blackbunny (Jan 31, 2003)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (130_R)*

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=537957
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1278710
http://www.volkswagen.msk.ru/index.php?p=page09




_Modified by blackbunny at 11:03 AM 4-20-2004_


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## kobidge (Sep 13, 2002)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (130_R)*

digifant 1 wiring:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1141416
wiring up a 90amp alternator:
http://www.nwlink.com/~vdb/vw/....html
what's needed to install a bbm 16v fuel rail into an a1:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1365999


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## blackbunny (Jan 31, 2003)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (kobidge)*

here is a diagram for keeping the ce1 in a rabbit









_Quote »_Complete Idiot’s Guide to Swap 
Digifant 1
FROM ECU CONNECTOR TO
RED/GRN STARTER 3 
BLK/YEL PIN 87 RELAY
RED/YEL (THICK) PIN 86 RELAY
RED/YEL FUEL PUMP RELAY 1,2
GRN NEG. COIL
RELAY PIN	
30 12V POSITIVE
85 GROUND
86 IGN 12V / RED/YEL (THICK) / COIL +
87 BLK/YEL

NOTES
1 16V Scirocco Fuel pump wire RED/YEL from knock box
2 Rabbit cut bottom wire on back of relay and install standard relay
3 Wire on solenoid, has 12V + when cranking engine




_Modified by blackbunny at 8:30 AM 5-5-2004_


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## kobidge (Sep 13, 2002)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (kobidge)*

if keeping the CE1 fuse box when converting to digifant 1 injection, you will need to keep the following things from the CIS harness:
low pressure oil sender
high pressure oil sender
coolant temp sensor
oil temp sensor
lights (obviously)
radiator fan motor
fan switch
alternator plug
that's about it. if i'm missing anything, just let me know and i'll edit it.


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## GTIRIDER (Jan 11, 2003)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (kobidge)*

Ok here is my probllem my car is idling poor and flutters on acceleration from idle. can you please help me


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## GTibunny16v (Aug 12, 2001)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (GTIRIDER)*

Did you set the idle screw? Have the key off and disconnect the ISV. Start the car and adjust the idle screw until you have a 950rpm idle. Turn the car off again and plug the ISV back in. 
MAKE SURE YOU DONT UNPLUG THE ISV WITH THE KEY ON! This will fry the ECU.
What do you mean by "flutters"?


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## GTIRIDER (Jan 11, 2003)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (GTibunny16v)*

flutter as in putts and stuters like its missing


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## golf198 (Apr 29, 2003)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (GTIRIDER)*

i need to know how to keep CE2 in my mk2 that is currently running Digi 2 i already have all my wiring.


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## asinryan (Jul 3, 2003)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (GTIRIDER)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GTIRIDER* »_flutter as in putts and stuters like its missing

mine did that 2 for a while, one of my fuel lines to the fpr was leaking, check the lines for any leakage, what kind of fpr are you running?


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## mrkrad (Nov 9, 2000)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (ALLMOTORtt20)*

I don't know if this is said. But buy a boost/vac gauge and AIR FUEL GAUGE puhleeze. It's $28 summitracing.com "summit air fuel gauge" and like $20-65 for a boost/vacuum gauge. You may boost someday, and its resale value is higher, but a cheap vacuum only (ehbay?) might work too.
It's important to know where your vacuum stands, especially at wot. If your at wot and have 0hg vacuum then start seeing it creep to say 3hg at 7000rpm, you need to know this to tune it. Some chips can be designed to nail fuel enrichment mode at say -5 to 0hg depending on your needs. 
A vacuum increase at wot indicates an airflow problem (AKA straw, resitriction, loss of power. Ideal is 0hg at max RPM but its not very likely for many people).
The air fuel gauge explains alot. It can be pretty good for tuning n/a. Since full rich is like 13:1 and thats acceptable, but if you start running funny you're trained out (Always put then in eye-sight [gauge pillar]) to reduce potential eyes off the road.
Things to look out for:
1. Cycling air fuel during idle/cruise - healthy system no limp mode -good
1a. not cycling properly o2 system or CTS system or other issues - bad
1b. WOT enrichment, you nail the gas you want the air fuel to go rich (whatever you believe is safest, instantly, hesistations are usually matched with a lean burp of air fuel then going rich, possible programming needs to be modified to make this smoother).
2. Vacuum gauge. Too little vacuum or too much vacuum might indicate cam timing issues, or base timing issues. They should be addressed or compensated in the chip
3. Digifant-1 CALI (non G60 & G60) can be tuned. They are not desirable to uniqueness but due to california emissions requirements some 91-92 cars must have a this ecu setup. Nobody likes these ecu's but if its what you got, and you live in a place that requires that pretty check engine light and you can't figure out how to make a timer to fire it up on and off or your stuck with it all hope is not lost. Some people have a heart for these folks and will spend massive time to work with you.
It's a known fact that the 1.8 16V will take alot more timing than the 2.0 16V, maybe compression, maybe just smaller bore size. Even boosted the 1.8'ers take more timing than the 2.0. I guess its the stroke/TDC time or something magical beyond the scope of my lame math/physics skills so don't ask me anything more about this.
The stock g60 chip or Cali-digi-1 (non g60) will work, its timing maps were for 87 octane, it does however present a nice 6200rpm redline, but for baseline setup, to get her running and check the air fuel gauge. It will work fine. 
The CO_POT is important. It is a massive fuel scaler (mostly enrichment mode) from 0kpa too 200kpa (1bar boost). Obviously if you are N/A you will find this device is a "dial a fuel" it has diminished effects during closed loop operations because the o2 sensor feedback system will targer 14.7:1 sweep but does have a HUGE affect during PE (fuel enrichment mode). Enough to smoke a boosted motor, its affect is Much larger on n/a motor. I didn't write this code but in theory it could be modified to act more linear. It was designed for the g60 motor for emissions, but has quite a punch.
The largest tuning issue you may find is that if your Particular motor cannot flow well, and pulls vacuum the digi-1 (g60 only) system does not understand this. It is impossible to pull vacuum at WOT with blower/turbo. It is very possible to do this all motor. This is where a stock chip can become dangerous, but fortunately the rpm limiter will keep you from doing serious damage. However its a VERY important thing to keep an eye on (hence the boost/vac gauge) when dialing in your car. The stock g60 chip is not programmed for n/a action, and in theory the map will be vastly incorrect on an n/a 16V motor. Since you can make say 165WHP at 0 to 3hg at 7200+ rpm, where as the G60 motor will make about 80bhp at 5500rpm (peak non boosted hp) at 0 to 3hg vacuum.
I'm still waiting for someone in atlanta to bring down a badass 16V 2.0 n/a or even 1.8 n/a. I'd like to spend some dyno/road time on it to squeeze out all there is. Then maybe re-juice her with the 100 octane pump and squeeze even more timing/af out.
So whenever someone decides to come down to atlanta, you pay for the dyno time, have a spare o2 bunghole , and we'll do the rest to see what you got. But don't bring a ***** car down. Cam's ported head, manifolds/hot exhaust yeah baby. 
Jesse padilla made 163whp then like 170-something on some of his build outs. I'm not sure what he used, but thats quite a feat. Don't expect a stock motor to make that much, its all in the flow. Extra compression (smart decking of the head) and good gas, nice unrestrictive intake track, cams, yeah baby. Bring it on. I might ask for lunch or something but i'd love to squeeze all ya can out of your car.
no two cars will be alike. The digi-1 conversion is not necessarily meant for a stock motor. CIS-Motronic is probably pretty good in that respect. But having a massive 4" intake pipe to a big intake mani/ported TB and cold air (ram?) i bet you'd have a beast on your hands.
Remember AIR FUEL GAUGE #1, boost Vacuum gauge #2, Pillar mounts (safety). Don't cry when somethings running wrong and you can't say "my air fuel is leaning out every time i hit the gas, and never pegging enrichment mode" The $28 gauge question is the first thing i'm gonna ask ya


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## Disco_Potato (Dec 16, 1999)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (mrkrad)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mrkrad* »_II'm still waiting for someone in atlanta to bring down a badass 16V 2.0 n/a or even 1.8 n/a. I'd like to spend some dyno/road time on it to squeeze out all there is. Then maybe re-juice her with the 100 octane pump and squeeze even more timing/af out.
So whenever someone decides to come down to atlanta, you pay for the dyno time, have a spare o2 bunghole , and we'll do the rest to see what you got. But don't bring a ***** car down. Cam's ported head, manifolds/hot exhaust yeah baby. 



Lets setup a weekend, the car exists. Ported head and Schrick 276's go on Saturday. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Action Jackson (Nov 20, 2001)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (mrkrad)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mrkrad* »_The CO_POT is important. It is a massive fuel scaler (mostly enrichment mode) from 0kpa too 200kpa (1bar boost).

OK, I'm confused on this... is the CO_POT the same as the MAP sensor? What does CO_POT stand for? If its not the MAP sensor, then what the what between the MAP and CO_POT?
Thanks


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## mrkrad (Nov 9, 2000)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (Action Jackson)*

C.arbon monOxide Potentiometer
it also is an IAT (or AIT). Intake Air Temp sensor.
Speed density: P=vt ? (my physics sux)


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## Action Jackson (Nov 20, 2001)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (mrkrad)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mrkrad* »_C.arbon monOxide Potentiometer
it also is an IAT (or AIT). Intake Air Temp sensor.
Speed density: P=vt ? (my physics sux)


So.. I'm sorry I'm not reading between your lines here. You've explained the acronym (Thanks! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif ) but is this also then the sensor used for the air preasure readings, or is there another sensor for that?
I'm guessing that the physics equation is answering my question. Preasure (P) is eaqual to velocity (v) times temperatuer (t) --- P=vt... I'm streching here aren't I. snicker.. I thought P=vt is Power = velocity* time


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## mrkrad (Nov 9, 2000)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (Action Jackson)*

mass of air is defined by pressure and temperature (speed density)
the sensor read Temperature.
hence why its in the path of air intake.
The ecu has the pressure sensor built into it. hence the nipple on on the ecu.


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## Action Jackson (Nov 20, 2001)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (mrkrad)*

I see oh wise one...
Cool! Thanks


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## QcGTI (Sep 28, 1999)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (Action Jackson)*

Can someone talk a little bit more to what happen to the fuel evaporation system when we switch to DIGI-1 on a 16v.


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## mrkrad (Nov 9, 2000)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (QcGTI)*

i dunno but i chucked the evap (carbon canister) on my g60







got two going in the garbage shortly. What are you talking bout?


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## Vwnitrous16v (Apr 21, 2003)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (mrkrad)*

who makes an N/a chip for a 16v ?sns?


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## golf198 (Apr 29, 2003)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (Vwnitrous16v)*

anyone have more info on wiring my digi 1 harness in my digi 2 car?


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## QcGTI (Sep 28, 1999)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (golf198)*

what is the ideal Ohm setting on the CO-POT for a N/A application? Stock is 500!


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## asinryan (Jul 3, 2003)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (QcGTI)*

sns tuning makes a n/a chip for digi1....they make it custom...
also check the sns tuning website for the diagram to make your digi2 a digi1..


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## QcGTI (Sep 28, 1999)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (ALLMOTORtt20)*

It will be a REAL digi-1







with the ECU and harness from a passat G-60 syncro, I even have the ECU to fuse box relay, green injectors (stock) and CO-POT. The only major part missing is the fuel rail from bahn brenner and the CO-POT adapter! I cant wait to see how this will work!


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## IheartSHARDS (Jun 18, 2004)

*swapping ce2....*

I have CE and want to swap in CE2 so the digi harness will plug right in. anyone have a site that shows what I need to do to swap it in, or can give me directions?


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## the4ork (Mar 10, 2003)

*Re: swapping ce2.... (IheartSHARDS)*

hey guys, my digi 1 harness came with a big fat relay built into it. the wires connecting to the relay are a fat red/black, black, grey/black, red/yellow, red/white... none of these wires seem to connect to the ecu, and the red/white wire connects to a brown 2-pin plug.
this relay is why i have been so confused this whole time, i've been thinking its the ecu relay


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## the4ork (Mar 10, 2003)

*Re: swapping ce2.... (the4ork)*

i have a pic of the relay if u need 1.
and 1 more q, where should i get vacum/pres for the ecu? compressor housing, tb, intake manifold?


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## kobidge (Sep 13, 2002)

*Re: swapping ce2.... (the4ork)*


_Quote, originally posted by *the4ork* »_
and 1 more q, where should i get vacum/pres for the ecu? compressor housing, tb, intake manifold?

you want the vacuum line for the ECU to tap into the plenum on the intake manifold. you will have to have the plenum tapped w/ a vacuum line fitting so you can get it on there. some have extra fittings on the back, and some don't, so it depends on what kind of manifold you picked up.
if you dump your carbon canister, you should really only have 3 vacuum lines. FPR to TB, ECU to IM, and vacuum booster to IM.


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## the4ork (Mar 10, 2003)

*Re: swapping ce2.... (kobidge)*

i came up with a diagram for my 86 cis-e car... here it is









LMK if this is right?


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## golf198 (Apr 29, 2003)

*Re: swapping ce2.... (the4ork)*

cant even read that


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## the4ork (Mar 10, 2003)

*Re: swapping ce2.... (golf198)*

i can email it to you so you can tell me if its right or not


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## kobidge (Sep 13, 2002)

*Re: (gizmotoy1)*

you only need the 8v alternator pulley if you are planning on keeping the alternator in it's stock position.
if you move it down to where the a/c compressor used to sit, you can keep the 16v pulley, it should line up no problem.


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## mrkrad (Nov 9, 2000)

*Re: (mxman)*

the g60 ecu (non-obd) uses a common +5V/WOT/IDLE. When idle or wot switch is depressed, the +5V common signal is returned back down the WOT and/or IDLE wire. Grounding the +5V = dead ecu. 
It is possible to be at wot and idle, confuses the ecu.
If idle has the +5V over 2500rpm the injectors will cut to prevent runaway motor.
If wot is always +5V the car will not pass emissions, and will be stumbly idle and poor cold start.
Really simple setup imo


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## 89 gli (Sep 13, 2002)

*Re: (mrkrad)*

When switching from CIS-E to DIGI-1, is it neccessary to replace the throttle body?
What to do with all the extra vaccum hoses connected to the fuel distributor?
How does the ecu monitor the amount of air being forced into the engine (no MAF like on DIGI-2)?


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## ValveCoverGasket (Mar 20, 2002)

*Re: (89 gli)*

im partway through my digi 1 swap and ive noticed that one of the biggest hurtles is getting the old wiring out of the car







if you can get that done easily and feel comfortable with it, the rest is relatively simple.


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## E60 (Apr 29, 2004)

*Re: (89 gli)*

keep your TB. plug the vacuum ports.
ditch your charcoal can and smell the gas when your engine is warm...








This is a map sensor based system. (manifold absolute pressure). ecu reads vacuum....so you need a vacuum source, back of the manni is perfect..


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## mk2 sixteenvee (Apr 3, 2004)

*Re: (E60)*

i really need some help, i've got my 2.0 16vt with digi 1 and it runs and drives great sometimes, then its like a switch goes off and it sputters at and idle and at low rpm's, stalls when its coming down to an idle, it sounds like its mis-firing the a/f reads lean right off the gauge, and i lose about 5-6 hg vac. anyone?!?!?!


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## forbiddenmk2golf (Oct 15, 2003)

i have a digi 2 16v what is involved to make it a digi 1


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## porterave (Oct 13, 2003)

Since Digi 1 doesnt have a Mass air flow sensor, would you be able to run a ram air intake? and would u get a noticable gain out of it?


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## mrkrad (Nov 9, 2000)

*Re: (porterave)*

no doubt ram air works, its not uncommon to see 2-5% gain in hp at 100mph+
you'd need to localize the best pressure point for ram air and haul ballz to use it. If you pick a poor design it might take 140mph to see actual gains.
keeping the water out is important too, gotta look at the current ram air implementations lately and see how they actually work, its not as simple as ramming air into a filter


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## 130_R (May 24, 2001)

*Re: (mrkrad)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mrkrad* »_no doubt ram air works, its not uncommon to see 2-5% gain in hp at 100mph+
you'd need to localize the best pressure point for ram air and haul ballz to use it. If you pick a poor design it might take 140mph to see actual gains.
keeping the water out is important too, gotta look at the current ram air implementations lately and see how they actually work, its not as simple as ramming air into a filter

cowl induction on VWs for once


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## QcGTI (Sep 28, 1999)

*Re: (130_R)*

can someone add pictures of his digi-1 N/A conversion pls...


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## porterave (Oct 13, 2003)

*Re: (QcGTI)*

hey QcGTI im in the middle of the swap. Ill post pics when its done most likely at the end on this week!


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## porterave (Oct 13, 2003)

*Re: (E60)*

I just got the motor in yesterday and my hood will not close. The corner of the fuel rail is hitting the inside of the hood. This is on my mk2 Jetta. Has anyone had simular problems with this and what did you just do? Also, the motor sits on a slant. The right side of the motor is slanted down and its securly bolted to the mounts. Can anyone help me out here? Thanks


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## bighare (May 6, 2004)

can someone tell me how much BHP a Stock digi 1 2L 16v form a 91 passat puts out???


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## ValveCoverGasket (Mar 20, 2002)

*Re: (bighare)*

a 2l 16v makes 130something. the only digi1 that came on 16vs was the california version of digi2.


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## A2GTUS (May 18, 2004)

134hp and its CIS-E Motronic setup.....


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## porterave (Oct 13, 2003)

*Re: (A2GTUS)*

Will a digi 2, 8v injector wireing harness work on a digi 1 2.0 16v with g60 injectors?


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## E60 (Apr 29, 2004)

*Re: (porterave)*


_Quote, originally posted by *porterave* »_Will a digi 2, 8v injector wireing harness work on a digi 1 2.0 16v with g60 injectors?

sure will. im sportin' one right now








here is an updated reference pic











_Modified by E60 at 2:08 AM 5-24-2005_


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## xpalendocious (Nov 28, 2003)

Can you use the stock 16v ignition distributer with digi1?
is 325$ for a complete unspliced digi1 setup a good price?


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## 39982 (Nov 18, 2001)

*Re: (xpalendocious)*

i have a rabbit that will be recieving a 16v. Is there any use for Digi-1 CALI? i can get the whole setup easily. the car currently has CIS-basic and am wondering if the Digi-1 CALI would be a better option


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## xpalendocious (Nov 28, 2003)

*Re: (surfacant)*


_Quote, originally posted by *surfacant* »_i have a rabbit that will be recieving a 16v. Is there any use for Digi-1 CALI? i can get the whole setup easily. the car currently has CIS-basic and am wondering if the Digi-1 CALI would be a better option









you should give me the digi1 setup in trade from my cis-e setup from my 1989 gti 16v, and some $$ for you.


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## the4ork (Mar 10, 2003)

*Re: (surfacant)*

digi1 cali is the worst of all injection systems. mostly because nobody knows anything about them and their a pita.
stock injections, digi1 non cali is the way to go, everything else sucks for boost.
digi2 harnesses can be modded to digi1 then you just need the digi1 puter


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## xpalendocious (Nov 28, 2003)

*Re: (the4ork)*

is g60 cali ok?


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## the4ork (Mar 10, 2003)

*Re: (xpalendocious)*

if its from a corrado, but i still woulnt use it


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## xpalendocious (Nov 28, 2003)

*Re: (the4ork)*

What is soo bad about california cars? Is the ecu or the wiring different?
Kevin


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## E60 (Apr 29, 2004)

*Re: (xpalendocious)*

the difference is a 25 pin ecu....or a 30 something (i cant remember its new years morning and im wasted!) ecu....all the rest of the pins from 25 up are emissions crap.


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## mrkrad (Nov 9, 2000)

*Re: (E60)*

it is possible to chip all digifant-1's however. even california. even the california non-g60. i dont care to do it but i can. that is one place the digi2 will never hold a candle too, you can actually do a bit of modding on the digi-1 cali models still like set the fueling and redline to 9000 for some real fun


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## volks25 (Dec 14, 2001)

*Re: (mrkrad)*

any diy docs on getting digi 1 in a rabbit gti?


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## ValveCoverGasket (Mar 20, 2002)

*Re: (volks25)*


_Quote, originally posted by *volks25* »_any diy docs on getting digi 1 in a rabbit gti?

cnbrown has the goods, talk to him http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## blackbunny (Jan 31, 2003)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (blackbunny)*


_Quote, originally posted by *volks25* »_any diy docs on getting digi 1 in a rabbit gti?

what like this

_Quote, originally posted by *blackbunny* »_here is a diagram for keeping the ce1 in a rabbit


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## KeithMac (Oct 10, 2002)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (blackbunny)*

Just a note on the throttle switches, I`ve recently converted my mk2 16v to digi1, using a 90 spec digi2 loom, on the UK cars the WOT and Idle switch connect to the sensor ground wire (brown/white, pin 6 ecu) when operated, been through the wiring quite a bit and throught the technical docs and this is correct. Don`t know if the US cars are different on the 25 pin ecu connector? 
Got it running with stacked gaskets and digi1, supercharger`s next


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## mayrasaldana (Jan 7, 2005)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (Disco_Potato)*

enail me [email protected] with more info i'll take my 16v gti down as soon as i get the wiring right..


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## porterave (Oct 13, 2003)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (mayrasaldana)*

hey does anyone know if digi 2 injectors will work as a temp soloution?


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## KeithMac (Oct 10, 2002)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (porterave)*

I really wouldn`t bother tbh, still has a crappy restrictive air flap. Beauty of digi1 is there`s no flow restrictions.


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## mrkrad (Nov 9, 2000)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (KeithMac)*

yeah with digi-1 one could in theory pull 0hg vacuum at peak RPM/HP. Any intake restrictions that caused a high rpm vacuum pull would be able to be dealt with. digi-2 is always going to pull some vacuum due to the intake restriction.
probably some on any digi-1 too, unless you've got a mad flowing intake setup. Ideally you want to high 0hg as soon as you wot (it will) and hold it all the way to redline or whatever you choose as peak whp. If you're intake/head/cams/K&N etc aren't near perfect you'll know on the vaccum gauge


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## So Low 2 (Jan 13, 2003)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (mrkrad)*

I am gathering all the parts presently to throw a Digi1 2.0 into a Mk1 Scirocco. It seems a 50mm or even better a ABF intake manifold would be a good upgrade for this setup, any thoughts, http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif thanks.....Marc.


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## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (mrkrad)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mrkrad* »_yeah with digi-1 one could in theory pull 0hg vacuum at peak RPM/HP. Any intake restrictions that caused a high rpm vacuum pull would be able to be dealt with. digi-2 is always going to pull some vacuum due to the intake restriction.
probably some on any digi-1 too, unless you've got a mad flowing intake setup. Ideally you want to high 0hg as soon as you wot (it will) and hold it all the way to redline or whatever you choose as peak whp. If you're intake/head/cams/K&N etc aren't near perfect you'll know on the vaccum gauge










Using the 42mm lower intake the total intake area is 5542 sq mm. The total of the OEM 16v TB at WOT is 3086 sq mm. I would think that's where the vacuum comes in at.
What would an engine run like if it had say 5600sq mm TB's???
Would it lose bottom end torque and only be a high revver like running ITB's??


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## mrkrad (Nov 9, 2000)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (OhioBenz)*

you could probably make up the low end torque with excellent fueling and timing advance and good quality 93 octane of course


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## KingofNod (Jun 28, 2003)

Any of you Digi 1 NA guys have problems with emissions testing afterwards? Mine is going to be driven on the street, so I have to make sure it will pass when the time comes, since my car isn't too slammed for the test dyno


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## 88Jetta (Feb 18, 1999)

*Re: (KingofNod)*

for all you CE2 people

don't forget to get a 5 pin "Digifant Relay" from a corrado
in a pinch you can use the 4 pin relay that can be found on any golf/jetta, and jump terminals 86 and 86a (IIRC) with a piece of wire

otherwise the swap is straight forward
1-- unwrap the wiring harness
2-- pull unneeded wires (oil breather warmer, fuel after run pressure sensor/relay, etc...)
3-- resort wires
4-- shorten the wires to 16v specs by de-pin the connectors, undo the crimps, shorten wires, re-crimp, and re-pin
5-plug in plugs F, G1, and G2 to the fusebox. There's a thing on the end of the fusebox that you pull to make all the plugs loose by unlocking them
Ross machine fuel rail and aeromotive adjustable FPR:
the FPR fits on the passenger side. I think the BBM fuel rail is longer on the drivers side, so maybe you can fit the FPR there


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (88Jetta)*

anyone have apart number for new pins for the sensor connection ends????
I have an AMP/Tyco connection so I could get them in bulk for everyone ..............


----------



## 88Jetta (Feb 18, 1999)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

Schweetness http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I remember I found the part number one time on a german distributor website. I'll go see if I can get a part number off a connector in the garage.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (88Jetta)*

either the connector AMP part number or the individual pin part number will work


----------



## 88Jetta (Feb 18, 1999)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

this is the babelfish version that I found in my favorites folder
http://babelfish.altavista.com...3b%3b
or go to http://wueko.wuerth.com
Kabelverbinder VW
or the part number 0964 558 98










let us know what the cost is on one of those kits.... or even just a whole bunch of the smaller pins for sensor/switch connectors..... it sure beats having to dish out $1 per single connector at futrell's


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

i'll have to show a terminal to an Amp rep - those are all VW numbers. tried to cross reference them but nothing came up.


----------



## 88Jetta (Feb 18, 1999)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

someone sent me a PM... since I'm not on my computer now I can't reply (security stuff, don't wanna change their settings)

Explanation of the digifant relay when doing a CE2 swap 
Digifant relay is just a relay that gives power to the ECU... kinda like a fuel pump relay or something. All digifant cars (1 and 2) had relays, digi 2 has a 4 pin relay, digi1 has a 5 pin relay. The difference is just that the 5 pin relay has another pin that sends out power to another circuit (86a). If you have to use a digi2 relay, you can use a jumper wire and bring power from terminal 86 to 86a, which I forget how it's marked on the relay board (30 or something?), but it's the small pin on the lower left. The relay goes in slot #3 of your relayboard (top row, 3rd from left)

The part number for the digi 1 relay is:
165 906 381
it's like $10 at the dealer, sometimes in stock... dunno if it comes on any other cars or not


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: IAT Co Pot*

I've read some posts where it was stated that Digi-1 CO Pots did not fare well in NA applications (i.e. it gets sucked into the inlet because its made for boost-not vacuum). I'm building a fairly modded NA 2.0-16v for my GLI and plan to run Digi-1. Is anyone aware of this potential issue?
Is anyone running a different IAT than the G60 VW one?
My custom intake is about 80% complete - is there a certain distance from the head that the IAT is supposed to be located? My intake runner length is 17" (optimum for 2.0) with a Ford twin 58mm TB. I had planned to use a short adapter and then a K&N. For Digi-1 should the IAT be located ahead of the TB or does it matter??


----------



## 88Jetta (Feb 18, 1999)

*Re: IAT Co Pot (OhioBenz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OhioBenz* »_I've read some posts where it was stated that Digi-1 CO Pots did not fare well in NA applications (i.e. it gets sucked into the inlet because its made for boost-not vacuum). I'm building a fairly modded NA 2.0-16v for my GLI and plan to run Digi-1. Is anyone aware of this potential issue?
Is anyone running a different IAT than the G60 VW one?
My custom intake is about 80% complete - is there a certain distance from the head that the IAT is supposed to be located? My intake runner length is 17" (optimum for 2.0) with a Ford twin 58mm TB. I had planned to use a short adapter and then a K&N. For Digi-1 should the IAT be located ahead of the TB or does it matter??

I forget the exact distance, but the CO pot should be located within like 6" or so before the throttle body. Mine is located by the back corner of the timing belt cover (by the shock tower)... so it's fairly close. You should point the connector so that faces towards the throttle body, making it paralell with the airflow.
I've put a few miles on my car in it's normally aspirated digi 1 state.... no problems with the COPot getting sucked in. When you make the copot bung make sure that the O-Ring squishes down a little (IE not flopping around). I forget the exact sizes, but electrical conduit has two sizes pretty close to two diameters of the CO Pot, the skinny part and the thick part. IIRC it's like 3/4" and 1" conduit, but I forget.
Here you can see how the smaller conduit will squish the o-ring up against the copot, and the large diameter allows the clip to push down against the o ring. Note that these were cut long so that I could trim them when installed. I was thinking of drilling a few small holes through the larger conduit and plug welding the small piece to the large piece once everything was installed.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

i'll probably machine one out of aluminum - so if i mount the Co pot directly after the K&N it should be OK?
remember Im running a huge TB so no standard VW hoses/tubes to connect here


----------



## 88Jetta (Feb 18, 1999)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

I would guess so..... I just remember reading some spec somewhere (bently?), that is probably more applicaple to boosted applications where a change in piping, or the intercooler can make a huge diff. in the tempurature. 
I bet that as long as there are no major tempurature changes anywhere on the intake pipe that it makes no difference... it's not like it's the MAP sensor or anything and a slight change in location changes the amt. of vac.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (88Jetta)*

that raises another question - I built a custom intake coming off the OEM 16v lower intake flange. The old airshroud passage is still there - can that be used for MAP vacuum or should I tap in behind the TB?


----------



## 16VJohn (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: (KingofNod)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KingofNod* »_Any of you Digi 1 NA guys have problems with emissions testing afterwards? Mine is going to be driven on the street, so I have to make sure it will pass when the time comes, since my car isn't too slammed for the test dyno









just dump 8 bottles of octane booster in your tank, and make sure your 02 sensor is working


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

*Re: (16VJohn)*

i just got my 16v swap done in my corrado but when i start it up i get an absurd amount of white smoke coming from between the firewall and the back of the head/block. cant tell where it is exactly coming from


----------



## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

*Re: (valet)*

spilled oil on the manifold and/or downpipe? something looks like burning from the manifold/downpipe heat


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

*Re: (PeOpLeG60T)*

dont think its spilled oil... looks more like its coming from the place where the header comestogether (at the branching part where some parts overlap) or from the gasket that goes to the cat


----------



## 88Jetta (Feb 18, 1999)

*Re: (valet)*

it's normal for your exhaust manifold to smoke for 30-60 minutes after you handle it with greasy hands, making the manifold all greasy, so when it heats up it smokes. After that, it may stink for a week or so


----------



## valet (Apr 21, 2002)

*Re: (88Jetta)*

thing is, all that was installed before i got the car... gues someone had some REALLY greasy hands


----------



## KingofNod (Jun 28, 2003)

*Re: (valet)*

Also, if you took the motor apart, or even the head, and replaced the headgasket or other gaskets, it will smoke for awhile while things break in. Mine did the same thing both times I've changed the headgasket. Oil and coolant that got into small areas if you pulled the head also burning off. 

Anyone with Digi 1 having problems with oil comming out of the oil filler cap? Its on tight, and am wondering if its the cap, or if theres too much pressure?


----------



## WaterWheels (Aug 14, 2005)

Kind of like the robot Number 5 in the movie, I am looking for input. I have been thinking of the Digifant I or II conversion for a 16v engine for some time. I have also read all the posts here and it seems that at least a few are happy with the results of either system. Because I have not decided which route to take, I am posting this in both forums, sorry for the space I used, forgive me. In an effort to keep this as short as possible, I will skip the reasons as to why I am thinking about this conversion and just ask for the input needed.
Some background that might help when giving advice. I am currently running my 16v (1.8L) with a straight CIS setup. No CAT as I don’t have to currently have one. Fuel mixture unit is the VW Motorsport model. Fuel pump is 52mm CIS-E from a PL code engine. 43mm intake manifold, Autotech sport camshafts (I place it between the Schrick 260° and 268° cams) and a modified cylinder head, was told about 12% - 15% increase in flow. Current exhaust is European factory non-emission except the rear muffler is an Italian sport model. I have no problems doing wiring and already know the requirements needed for either system If that’s not enough information, feel free to ask.
Here’s the sticking points or questions:
> I know the Digifant I can be chipped to run a normally aspirated 16v engine. I assume not only the fuel, but the ignition advance is also altered to work or the conversion would not function real well. What about the Digifant II ECU? Can the ignition advance also be corrected? Can the fuel shut-off, limiter, also be raised? What about the different ECU models out there, KEN, Bosch, TAN, Seimens all with a dozen suffixes or so, which is the best for doing a Digi II conversion?
> The air flow meter, Digi II only here, which really is better. I have read the debate about the BMW big meter vs. the VW meter. I have also looked at them and a few others, Ford and Opel, to see what all the differences are. The BMW has a tight spring as does the small 6 cylinder BMW meters. Except for the big BMW meter, they all had about the same size in and out openings. The pins and their function don’t match the VW positions and functions either but of course the wires can be swapped easy. The size of the openings is also an issue I really don’t understand the big deal about. The big BMW is like a 3.2L or bigger 6 cylinder so I would expect the meter to be larger, but the smaller 2.5L 6 cylinders use the same size meter as the 1.8L and 2.0L VW engines, what gives here?
> Co_pot position and mounting, Digi I only here, is another issue. The original G60 has the co_pot mounted in the air inter cooler and air temperature there is not all that cool. The correct position, direction, I know but what about distance from the throttle body? Is it going to be too cool for N/A usage or is the chip going to correct for this if it is a problem? As I understand things, the co_pot has a much greater effect in this application then when using boost so is position important?
I know there are aluminum and steel mounting bungs. I have also seen the self made bung posted. How are either of these attached to a plastic or aluminum air pipe? A steel pipe I don’t think I would use because of the weight. Can the water flange sensor bungs, plastic kind like the co_pot bung, be cut off and mounted to a plastic air pipe?
> The fuel pump/injectors/regulator is the last area I would like some input on. I currently have a good set of G60 injectors. Will they be good, at least for starters, or should another set be purchased?
I also have a “normal” 3BAR regulator. Again, will this work well or should I spend the $70 or so and get the 3.5BAR model?
As stated, the current fuel pump is the 52mm CIS-E model. I don’t mind buying the G60/Digifant pump as I already have two of the housings and filters, but can the higher pressure pump be kept? Will it over-power the regulator and either ruin it or flood the engine?
Sorry to take up so much space but I think some of the photos that people post take up more than this any how. Some helpful advice on these issues will help me decide which system I will use. This is also not a race car so keep that in mind too please. If anyone can relay just how they feel about the driveability/performance/satisfaction of their conversion that would help too.
Again thanks for any helpful advice or clearing up.


----------



## KingofNod (Jun 28, 2003)

I'm having some issues with my Digi 1 to Motronic swap. The car is running now, and runs very well. However, I seem to have a dead spot right at 2100-2500 RPM's. Once you get above 3K, its great. However, at that 2100-2500 the car looses a lot of power, and bogs till you get passed that point. Any ideas on what it could be? Is it just needing to be properly tuned, or is it some sort of leak or timing related?


----------



## E60 (Apr 29, 2004)

*Re: (KingofNod)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KingofNod* »_I'm having some issues with my Digi 1 to Motronic swap. The car is running now, and runs very well. However, I seem to have a dead spot right at 2100-2500 RPM's. Once you get above 3K, its great. However, at that 2100-2500 the car looses a lot of power, and bogs till you get passed that point. Any ideas on what it could be? Is it just needing to be properly tuned, or is it some sort of leak or timing related?

Timing related? check the timing and you'll know.. make sure to pull the CTS first, set it at 6btdc. Are you running the stocker chip in there? 3 bar fpr? throw out some specs for the sake of the FAQ.


----------



## push (Apr 12, 2003)

*Re: (KingofNod)*

will a Digi-1 automatic ECU and harness work? I have an ABA 16v turbo running only about 6 psi of boost. This car NEEDS to run within 2 weeks and I have a full automatic corrado G60 harness and ECU and all necessary parts sitting in front of me. are there any major differences in the harness? Also will the ECU in stock form be able to make this thing run? I plan on getting the car chipped but will a stock ECU be enough to get this car up and running safely enough to drive for about 2 weeks?


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (push)*

iirc the auto uses a different TB that has a tps sensor vs the manual ips+wot.
i dont think the digi-1 is good enuf for 16v-T - get an SNS chip made!!


----------



## KingofNod (Jun 28, 2003)

*Re: (E60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *E60* »_Timing related? check the timing and you'll know.. make sure to pull the CTS first, set it at 6btdc. Are you running the stocker chip in there? 3 bar fpr? throw out some specs for the sake of the FAQ.

Running 3.5 BAR FPR, with SNS Stage 5 chip designed for NA 16v applications, and tuned for the mild cams that I have. I'll have to check ignition timing, and can't think what else it could be other than a bad fuel or ignition map, and if thats the case, there isn't much I can do other than get a different chip.


----------



## ValveCoverGasket (Mar 20, 2002)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OhioBenz* »_
i dont think the digi-1 is good enuf for 16v-T - get an SNS chip made!!

stock chip is decent, but keeping it out of boost for the most part will definetly save the motor. the fueling goes all wonky when the boost hits, or you hit WOT


----------



## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OhioBenz* »_iirc the auto uses a different TB that has a tps sensor vs the manual ips+wot. !

are you saying that the standard harness is equipped with bot connectors? tps and the switches? i imagine so
do you think that ,with a manual engine digi1 management , we can hook the TPS connector to a tps and do the work of the switches??
i guess the ecu wont even take care of the tps input if he's programmed to work with the switches ......
i got a problem that i need to solve 
i have now a VR6 TB on my custom 16v intake and i want to know if i really need to hook the switches on brackets n' stuff or i can plug the tps connector on it








only want to know .. could be easier this way
thanks


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (PeOpLeG60T)*

it would be interesting to see if the harness from a digi-1 auto would hook with the VR6 TB tps. I' putting a Ford Lightning TB on one







will have to adapt the manual switches to it somehow.


----------



## E60 (Apr 29, 2004)

*Re: (KingofNod)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KingofNod* »_
Running 3.5 BAR FPR, with SNS Stage 5 chip designed for NA 16v applications, and tuned for the mild cams that I have. I'll have to check ignition timing, and can't think what else it could be other than a bad fuel or ignition map, and if thats the case, there isn't much I can do other than get a different chip.

doubtful. Your co-pot or your timing is prob. off... All of your gear in good shape?


----------



## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

anyone ever tried the TPS trick?
the digi1 runs with no switches but idle isn't perfect and no WOT enrichment who is bad when pushing air in from a turbine







i dont want to melt anything


----------



## E60 (Apr 29, 2004)

*Re: (PeOpLeG60T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PeOpLeG60T* »_anyone ever tried the TPS trick?
the digi1 runs with no switches but idle isn't perfect and no WOT enrichment who is bad when pushing air in from a turbine







i don't want to melt anything


hook up your switches man, that means you don't have a deceleration cut-off, not to mention no WOT


----------



## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

only wanted to know ... my engine isn't running yet still have time to hook the switches thanks


----------



## A2Carat (Jan 13, 2003)

*Re: (PeOpLeG60T)*

Ok, from what I read, I gather this much...
My 2.0 16V Passat motor with CIS-E Motronic can be dropped into my 90 Golf Digi1 8v by just switching the injector cups on the 16v and the Digi1 ECU chipped with an SNS calibration? (web address for SNS?) Both are 5 speeds.
Is this correct, or do I need to get some other things? Do I really need the co-pot? I am keeping this system NA.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (A2Carat)*

new fuel rail
new fpr
plug off the cold start injector hole
CTS sensor - choose 16v or Digi - either rework harness or adapt digi coolant inlet onto head
the tps and wot switches may be different between digi and Passat TB's
some people run idle control valve, some dont
venting of the block
plug air shroud channel


----------



## A2Carat (Jan 13, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OhioBenz* »_new fuel rail
new fpr
plug off the cold start injector hole
CTS sensor - choose 16v or Digi - either rework harness or adapt digi coolant inlet onto head
the tps and wot switches may be different between digi and Passat TB's
some people run idle control valve, some dont
venting of the block
plug air shroud channel

And then everything is good? What FPR am I to get?


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (A2Carat)*

any good aftermarket will work as long as its designed for fuel injection and can handle the psi your pump puts out.
i like the aeromotive units from http://www.summitracing.com for about $130 or less.


----------



## nitrous16v (Jan 16, 2004)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (130_R)*

i just spoke with AMS advanced motorsport solutions and they still offer digi chip/ecu upgrades , rev limit is increased to 7000rpms and on the dyno they gained 11hp in the mid range and 8 hp peak. the dyno chart shows 93hp/105 ft/lbs tq stock and 102hp and 108ft/lbs tq with AMS chip/ecu upgrade. you need to send your ecu to them. application are 
1987 1/2 to 1992 49state golf/jetta
1987 1/2 to 1990 california golf/jetta
1990-1992 cabrio
their contact info is.
AMS
1-310-763-8000
http://www.amspower.com
should work with 16v conversions http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## OldSkoolDubbin (Jun 17, 2004)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (nitrous16v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nitrous16v* »_i just spoke with AMS advanced motorsport solutions and they still offer digi chip/ecu upgrades , rev limit is increased to 7000rpms and on the dyno they gained 11hp in the mid range and 8 hp peak. the dyno chart shows 93hp/105 ft/lbs tq stock and 102hp and 108ft/lbs tq with AMS chip/ecu upgrade. you need to send your ecu to them. application are 
1987 1/2 to 1992 49state golf/jetta
1987 1/2 to 1990 california golf/jetta
1990-1992 cabrio
their contact info is.
AMS
1-310-763-8000
http://www.amspower.com
should work with 16v conversions http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

that is for digi 2


----------



## KingofNod (Jun 28, 2003)

*Re: (E60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *E60* »_doubtful. Your co-pot or your timing is prob. off... All of your gear in good shape?

Ignition timing? Pretty sure mechanical timing is dead on, or I can't imagine the car would run nearly as well as it does.


----------



## E60 (Apr 29, 2004)

*Re: (KingofNod)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KingofNod* »_
Ignition timing? Pretty sure mechanical timing is dead on, or I can't imagine the car would run nearly as well as it does. 

yes, your ignition timing. hell check the cam timing while your at it...


----------



## KingofNod (Jun 28, 2003)

*Re: (E60)*

I spent plenty of time setting the cam timing. If its not dead on now, it never will be. I'll borrow a timing light, I gotta feeling its the ignition timing , as I never really set it with a light since I rebuilt the head.


----------



## KingofNod (Jun 28, 2003)

*Re: (Blk95GTIVR6)*

Tried NGP? Maybe BBM? SNS chip works fine though.


----------



## rocco858488 (Sep 14, 2005)

*Re: IAT Co Pot (88Jetta)*

Hey,
I am trying to figure out how to put Digi 1 on a 16v scirocco. I have a G60 with all the necessary parts, but I need a step by step (with pic.s if possible). Can you help me? Please send any info to [email protected]


----------



## 88Jetta (Feb 18, 1999)

*Re: IAT Co Pot (rocco858488)*

VW CE2 fusebox pinouts -- gathered from a digifant 1 diagram
Connector F
F1	Red/Blk - starter – circuit 50
F2	? blank ?
F3	blue - alternator exciter -- was in another harness so I cut
F4	Brown -- fuel after run
F5	Red/Grn—ECU #1
F6	Bk/R -- back up light
F7	bk/bl	back up light
F8	brown -- crankcase breather (cut)
F9	color?	Digifant control unit relay
F10
G1
1	
2	br/w	outside air temp
3	R/Y	ECU circuit 3
4	Blk	Coil #15
5	Br/Wh	tranny ground
6. 
7.	blk/wht	ECU #23
8.	R/W	o2 heater
9. ?
10.	bk/tlw	ECU #14 / ISV
11. 
12.	Red/Blk	Coil #1
G2
1	g/bk	oil temp
2	w/r	outside air temp
3	y/r	coolant temp
4	blk	fuel after run
5	track 47
6	track 44
7	color?	Internal track 44
8	color?	Track 61
9	color?	Fuel relay? Track #51
10	Y	oil psi sender 1.8bar
11	bl/bk	.3bar oil psi
12	?


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: IAT Co Pot (88Jetta)*

can you use a digifant 2 throttle body and sensors with digifant 1? is it just a closed throttle and opened throttle switch?
I am moving from digi2 to digi1, i got my stuff yesterday http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: IAT Co Pot (veedubinit)*

im pretty sure its just the IPS and WOT switches like on the Digi-II
i could look 4 u Sunday cos i got a G60 motor out in the shed...
people that go aftermarket management use the Passat or G60 auto TB's with the TPS setup.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (130_R)*

OK, heres my Q...
I'm building a NA 2.0-16v to go into my GLI and am switching to Digi-1 at the same time.
The motor is pretty drastically modded and will be running dual 58mm TB and getting a 50 shot of NO2.
I am looking for stock HP of around 200, and i know that the CIS-E fuel pump is said to be good for 400HP.... all that said, I plan to get rid of the out of tank pump and put in a higher flow/psi in-tank one. 
What LPH does a stock VW CIS-E run? what LPH does it take to push 200+ a 50 shot??


----------



## silvervwbeetle (Mar 20, 2002)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (OhioBenz)*

i have a 91 8v jetta from california, i am told it has digi 1. i am going to put a 16v in it, has anyone figured out this digi 1 system with a 16v and if so what did you do? do i just need a fuel rail and use all the 8v wiring and sensors?


----------



## vwpat (Oct 25, 2000)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (silvervwbeetle)*


_Quote, originally posted by *silvervwbeetle* »_i have a 91 8v jetta from california, i am told it has digi 1. i am going to put a 16v in it, has anyone figured out this digi 1 system with a 16v and if so what did you do? do i just need a fuel rail and use all the 8v wiring and sensors?
CA digi I is more like digi II but with diagnostics. The digi II procedure would be better for you.


----------



## silvervwbeetle (Mar 20, 2002)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (vwpat)*

thanks for the help, thats what i figured


----------



## kda33 (Jan 27, 2005)

Ok I'm interested in doing this swap, however in an earlier post there was a mention of a BMW mass air flow can someone shed some light?


----------



## rromero22 (Apr 4, 2004)

*Re: (kda33)*

I'm part way through the digi 1 swap but have a question on where to route the hose thats on the metal pipe since there no additional connector on the flange that holds the blue sensor.One end goes to the heater core and the other to the head. Do i block off that metal pipe? or what other option is there? Here's a pic. Thanks for your time.


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (kda33)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kda33* »_Ok I'm interested in doing this swap, however in an earlier post there was a mention of a BMW mass air flow can someone shed some light?

This is used with a Digifant II application, digifant I doesnt use a Mass air flow sensor.
There is a full thread devoted to DigifantII i suggest checking that out to see more info on the BMW MAF


----------



## rromero22 (Apr 4, 2004)

*Re: (rromero22)*

Who's done the digi 1 16v swap and can chime in on this one?


----------



## rromero22 (Apr 4, 2004)

*Re: (rromero22)*

I've figured it out, I guess you can just cap off a coolant pipe, they sell plugs for them if you have a extra outlet you dont need


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

we did that on a GLI with a cap from Advanced Auto. It didn't last 3 months before cracking and needing replaced so make sure you get some quality ones when you do - and throw a spare in the glove box just in case.


----------



## rromero22 (Apr 4, 2004)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

Thanks for the heads up on that, i'm not sure why some of the 16v had 2 outlets and others just 1


----------



## zubzero2 (Feb 14, 2005)

*Re: (mrkrad)*

My advice, since i have a 2.016v df1 in my rabbit is to back the throttle screw out, sure it idels at 2000k once its warmed up, but when its cold it idells between 1000k and 1500k, might have to fiddle with the pettel a bit at first but once its idleing it stays.


----------



## zubzero2 (Feb 14, 2005)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (silvervwbeetle)*

CA digi 1 is a self adapting ecu where digi 2 is not, that is what i have in my rabbit. 2.0l 16v. Love every minuet of it. I even have a cone filter on it. Found an adapter plat at auto zone for 15 dollars, hooked it up to flaper box with out plastic box, made a custom braket and thats all she wrote. I'm curitly trying to figure out how to push the revlimiter back in the programing to 9k because of the fact that my car hits the rev limiter fast and pushes hard. the limiter is at 6 1/2 due to a perfomance chip my friend had and copyed and burn to a new chip for me. But in do time i will lern how to reprogram the ecu and start selling them.


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

almost sounds like thats a candidate for a solenoid actuated idle screw - out for starting and back in for driving.... isn't that what the ISV is supposed to do? Maybe it just needs a restrictor to reduce the airflow? I bet it can be made to work once we figure out WHY the ISV doesnt work...
After all Digi-1 has one from factory and it works...


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ (zubzero2)*

oh - a CA Digi-1....thats not the same as the G60 Digi-1, its just a Digi-2....with polution control crap


----------



## Muffler Bearing (Apr 4, 2004)

would the co-pot function properly if it were... say... in an itb manifold? or would it be better to have an airbox and mount the co-pot there?
but then, would having the itb's draw from one plenum kill the advantage that itb's have over a single throttle?
-j


----------



## E60 (Apr 29, 2004)

*Re: (Muffler Bearing)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Muffler Bearing* »_would the co-pot function properly if it were... say... in an itb manifold? or would it be better to have an airbox and mount the co-pot there?
but then, would having the itb's draw from one plenum kill the advantage that itb's have over a single throttle?
-j

I dont think there would be enough vacuum @ the itbs to measure map. Plus ITB's pulse the air in, it doesn't just pour in. You would need to come up with a reliable source of vacuum. Also, programming this setup would have to been practically done in Atlanta on the SNS dyno with jwatts and mrkrad programming your set-up.


----------



## KingofNod (Jun 28, 2003)

Wondering if anyone with an SNS chip is also having the warm start up issue, or if anyone else with the Digifant I swap has this issue. Upon a warm start, the car will run fine for a few seconds, then start bogging and backfiring, shooting black smoke out the back (bascially undrivable) for about 30 seconds, or until you rev the piss out of it. Then it runs fine. Any ideas?


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

my chipped MOtronic does the same thing - it was the o2 sensor - when it switches from open loop start-up/cold mode to closed loop/warm running mode it starts looking at the o2 sensor values.


----------



## Muffler Bearing (Apr 4, 2004)

*Re: (KingofNod)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KingofNod* »_Wondering if anyone with an SNS chip is also having the warm start up issue, or if anyone else with the Digifant I swap has this issue. Upon a warm start, the car will run fine for a few seconds, then start bogging and backfiring, shooting black smoke out the back (bascially undrivable) for about 30 seconds, or until you rev the piss out of it. Then it runs fine. Any ideas?

i had a stage 4 g60 that did something similar to that but the hesitation would start as soon as i started it up warm or cold. turned out my problem was a faulty ground in the o2 sensor/guage wiring.
-j


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

*Re: (Muffler Bearing)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Muffler Bearing* »_
i had a stage 4 g60 that did something similar to that but the hesitation would start as soon as i started it up warm or cold. turned out my problem was a faulty ground in the o2 sensor/guage wiring.
-j

the o2 is def the first thing to check, you can use a 94 ford escort 3 wire one for >$30 if you can splice wires.


----------



## vee_dubb_gti (Nov 17, 2004)

*Re: (mrkrad)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mrkrad* »_no doubt ram air works, its not uncommon to see 2-5% gain in hp at 100mph+
you'd need to localize the best pressure point for ram air and haul ballz to use it. If you pick a poor design it might take 140mph to see actual gains.
keeping the water out is important too, gotta look at the current ram air implementations lately and see how they actually work, its not as simple as ramming air into a filter

Ram air dosn't exist.


----------



## KingofNod (Jun 28, 2003)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

My 02 sensor is brand new, but I'll definatly check out the ground wire. I'm pretty sure I routed mine back to the battery ground, because the bolt on the motor mount had snapped off, so there was nowhere locally to mount the ground. Maybe I'll try it again somewhere closer to the sensor.


----------



## vee_dubb_gti (Nov 17, 2004)

*Re: (KingofNod)*

sounds like its in open loop and dumping fuel in like its cold.


----------



## KingofNod (Jun 28, 2003)

*Re: (vee_dubb_gti)*

Like it thinks its cold regardless, and adds warmup enrichment to compensate? Does Digifant I do warm up enrichment under a certain temp?


----------



## OhioBenz (Dec 6, 2001)

yes, blue coolant sensor - equivalent to 16v white CTS


----------



## vee_dubb_gti (Nov 17, 2004)

*Re: (OhioBenz)*

it dose under a certin temp and length of time. sorry im kinda drunk http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif














http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
but im still kickin butt in beer pong http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif










_Modified by vee_dubb_gti at 9:13 PM 1-31-2006_


----------



## GoKart_16v (Dec 17, 2004)

*Re: (KingofNod)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KingofNod* »_Wondering if anyone with an SNS chip is also having the warm start up issue, or if anyone else with the Digifant I swap has this issue. Upon a warm start, the car will run fine for a few seconds, then start bogging and backfiring, shooting black smoke out the back (bascially undrivable) for about 30 seconds, or until you rev the piss out of it. Then it runs fine. Any ideas?

Me http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2484262
Call me crazy...but i disc the co-pot plug altogether...not to mentioned I use a dummy cts that is not seated into the coolant flange.
Wen it phase over to warm and buck...I jsut turn the engine off and coast...and start it back up...its like the ecu reset and runs better. But I notice disconnecting either the o2 sensor or the co-pot will eliminate that "phase" change. I'm guessing it runs in limp mode? Whatever it is, its better than bucking most of the time in low rpm.


----------



## mrkrad (Nov 9, 2000)

*Re: (GoKart_16v)*

find g60NUT on here, he has a corrado with n/a 16V motor. any strange exhibits he can probably explain quite well.


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (mrkrad)*

Okay, so i am runing a digi2 16v NA right now, and i have picked up a digi1 harness and computer, and a weird digi1 TB... Its a driver side g60 TB from a passat, and i have never seen one like it. This project is kind along term as i havent torn down my future boosted motor yet but i have a few questions.
- Is the ISV for a digi1 the same as the digi2 unit?
-what is the lower tuber witht he cut off plate for, and how is it plummed in a turbo situation?
- is it necessary to run a burnt chip for a 10 to 15psi setup?
I know I'll ask more later, but this is wherei am at the start. Thanks in advance guys


----------



## KingofNod (Jun 28, 2003)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

If anyone is intrested, I will be selling my Digifant I setup in the next few weeks. I have the Chipped ECU (Stage 5 SNS for 16v with mild cams). The harness that has all new wiring run (however, the wiring is all black, so troubleshooting will not be fun). Also the CO Potentiometer. I'll even throw my old Throttle body with WOT and Idle switches in if you need it. I'm not decided on price yet, because I will NOT be selling untill my car is up and running on Megasquirt, and I"m not sure how long that will take. So if you intrested, know that I will be selling my setup soon. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## vee_dubb_gti (Nov 17, 2004)

*Re: (KingofNod)*

so did you get your digi 1 running well before you started going to M.S.?


----------



## KingofNod (Jun 28, 2003)

*Re: (vee_dubb_gti)*

Other than a nasty warm start issues, the motor performs very well. I'm almost positive this issue in a wiring mistake somewhere in my 02 sensor system, but I've never bothred to fix it). Very responsive, hasn't broken down once (knock on wood) since the conversion (not for things Digi Related anyway). Idles fine without my ISV. Very stable setup, but I really want to get into tuning, and want to cure both my warm start issue, my rotted cat (from poor running from before), and so I can tune it myself without having new chips burned.


----------



## vee_dubb_gti (Nov 17, 2004)

*Re: (KingofNod)*

by nasty what do you mean?
so it was it running rich the whole time you had the a/f gauge?


----------



## KingofNod (Jun 28, 2003)

*Re: (vee_dubb_gti)*

Runs pig rich for the first minute or so after a warm startup. Making driving pretty annoying in that first minute, and idling not so fun either. Although I'm pretty certain it's an issue with my wiring.


----------



## vee_dubb_gti (Nov 17, 2004)

*Re: (KingofNod)*

like its in open loop. what did you do with your ICV?


----------



## KingofNod (Jun 28, 2003)

*Re: (vee_dubb_gti)*

I tossed it. It could be the problem, but I doubt it. Idles perfect without it.


----------



## vee_dubb_gti (Nov 17, 2004)

*Re: (KingofNod)*

oh you ment that it idles bad at first to. so after warm start up it runs great?


----------



## KingofNod (Jun 28, 2003)

*Re: (vee_dubb_gti)*

Yeah. Runs very well afterwards. 

Unfortunatly, my car is no longer Digifant I







. Ripped it out completely last night. The harness might be salvageable, but it would be a decent amount of effort for me to make it useable again (had some trouble removing it). The ECU/Co Potentiometer, and if someone needs it, the throttle body, coolant temp sensor will be for sale very soon (as soon as I'm sure the car will run on MS).


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (KingofNod)*

What kind of throttle body were you using?


----------



## KingofNod (Jun 28, 2003)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

Stock 16v with WOT and idle switches.


----------



## veedubinit (Aug 17, 2003)

*Re: (KingofNod)*

Hmmmm is there a DIV on how to change this?? i have an extra digi2 TBa nd a 16v one and I'd like to use the stock 16v TB with the switches. .


----------



## smgti (May 11, 2000)

*Re: (veedubinit)*

when swapping cis for digi 1 did you guys fuse the Black/Yellow wire coming off the relay or not?


----------



## E60 (Apr 29, 2004)

*Re: (KingofNod)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KingofNod* »_Yeah. Runs very well afterwards. 

Unfortunatly, my car is no longer Digifant I







. Ripped it out completely last night. The harness might be salvageable, but it would be a decent amount of effort for me to make it useable again (had some trouble removing it). The ECU/Co Potentiometer, and if someone needs it, the throttle body, coolant temp sensor will be for sale very soon (as soon as I'm sure the car will run on MS). 

dont sell your co_pot or your cts. Your going to need a cts and a iat sensor for ms.


----------



## KingofNod (Jun 28, 2003)

*Re: (E60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *E60* »_dont sell your co_pot or your cts. Your going to need a cts and a iat sensor for ms.

I'm using GM ones.


----------



## KingofNod (Jun 28, 2003)

*Re: (KingofNod)*

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2573803
Digifant setup up for sale. ECU, CO Pot, Chip, 02 sensor, Throttle body, Coolant flange/sensor. Make offers.


----------



## GTItus (Dec 11, 2002)

*fuel line fitting adapters*

I'm working on my swap right now and the fuel fittings are very frustrating if you don't have the correct info. You'll need the correct adapters for you fuel lines for male -6 to male 12mm x 1.5 an and you'll find that info here
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...10792 
or you can just find a dealer that sells aeromotive fittings and buy part # AER-FBM2246


----------



## killercoupe (Dec 12, 2005)

has anyone hear ever converted a digi2 harness to work with the digi1 ecu? I am in the process of repinning using the SNS instructions but they seem a little vague. Does anyone have any experience with this conversion?


----------



## g60vw (Oct 3, 2002)

*Re: (killercoupe)*

Back from the dead, at one time this was a sticky, maybe it still should be.

Garth


----------



## volks25 (Dec 14, 2001)

So anyone know for sure if a auto passat 16v TB can work with digi I ?
What is the electrical signal of the idle switch? ground when idle, or ground when off idle ? I may modify my audi TB to add the idle switch.


----------



## Greengt1 (Aug 27, 2006)

*Re: (volks25)*

Ground when idle.


----------



## rabid16Vrabbit (Dec 14, 2006)

*Re: (volks25)*

yes the passat auto TB is the one you want if you dont have the digi TB http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
yeah this would be a nice sticky...i have a few questions but gotta run for a bit.

one for now..how important is the ISV..i deleted mine...could this be an issue as to why i burnt a couple chips? faulty signals or an overlaod perhaps?


_Modified by rabid16Vrabbit at 1:24 AM 12-16-2006_


----------



## h0tg60 (May 12, 2005)

*Re: (Greengt1)*

YEH


----------



## Greengt1 (Aug 27, 2006)

*Re: (h0tg60)*








@ this thread!


----------



## Greengt1 (Aug 27, 2006)

*Re: (Greengt1)*


----------



## Greengt1 (Aug 27, 2006)

*Re: (Greengt1)*

somebody needs this


----------



## GTItus (Dec 11, 2002)

*Re: (Greengt1)*

Use the following to tune your 16vt. Follow these steps in this order and digi 1 will always run like it should (n/a applications not included in that statement):
ECU HOSE 
should be exactly 1 meter in length or 39.375 inches from ecu to throttle body
FUEL PRESSURE
stock fuel pressure is 3.0 bars or 43.5 psi. Can have more fuel pressure if it leans out at high revs but not less than stock
SET TIMING
Enter service adjustment mode by detaching the multi-plug from the blue coolant temperature sensor. With the ECU in service adjustment mode blip the throttle so that the engine revs past 2500 rpm. Do this four times.
Increase the engine speed from idle to between 2000 and 2500 rpm and check the timing. This should be 6° +/-1°. If adjustment is needed slacken the distributor fixing bolts and turn the distributor until you have the correct timing.
Allow the engine to return to idle speed and re-connect the multi-plug to the blue coolant temperature sensor. Blip the throttle three times, making sure the engine speed rises over 3000 rpm each time.
Check the ignition timing now advances with increased revs by slowly increasing the engine speed while watching the timing marks. Without an expensive timing light you will not be able to accurately measure the advance, but it should be around 40° at 2800 rpm.
IDLE SPEED
Before attempting to adjust the idle speed make sure the ignition timing is correct. It is also worth taking the idle speed control valve off the engine and thoroughly spraying it with carburettor cleaner. If the engine has done any significant mileage you will be amazed at the amount of black goo that comes out of the valve.
The regulated engine speed is controlled by the ECU and is not adjustable. The ECU regulates idle speed by opening and closing the idle speed control valve and also by making continuous small adjustments to the ignition timing. However for this to work properly the base idle speed must be set correctly.
To set the base idle speed remove the breather hose from the pressure regulating valve on the cam cover and plug the hose. Start the engine and allow it to idle for a couple of minutes and then put the ECU into service adjustment mode by detaching the multi-plug from the blue coolant temperature sensor.
Blip the throttle three times, making sure the engine speed rises over 3000 rpm each time. Allow the engine to return to idle and then use the idle adjustment screw to set the idle speed to 920 rpm +/- 25 rpm.
Re-connect the coolant temperature sensor, unplug and re-connect the breather hose. The engine speed should now settle down to the correct regulated figure of 900 to 950 rpm.
CO POT. ADJUSTMENT
Without an exhaust gas analyser there is no way you can measure the CO content. However don’t despair because the CO adjustment screw only affects the CO content at idle and the lambda sensor will adjust the idle mixture to the correct value – provided it is working OK.
1. Let the car run and warm up. Oil temp has to be at least 180*F, and the rad fan has to have cycled at least twice. 
2. Rev your motor past 3000rpm three times for at least one second each time. This lets your ECU get out of warm-up/coldstart mode. 
3.  Unplug your blue coolant temp sensor, on the main radiator hose in front of the head. The ECU is now in diagnostic/tuning mode, and it will save new values inputted to it as a new baseline of initial settings. 
4.  Set timing to 6*BTDC. Advancing or retarding it from there does nothing but screw up how the car runs, this is the baseline from  which the ECU will advance or retard timing electronically. 
5.  Monitor the CO % level from the sniffer pipe upwind of the catalytic convertor. Adjust the CO pot so that the CO level is 0.07%,  +/- 0.05%, with the HC levels below 120ppm. 
6. Adjust the idle screw according to your cam. Stock cam = 850rpm, 260 cam = 950rpm, 268cam = 1050 rpm. This can be +/- 50rpm. 
7. Plug the blue temp sensor back in. The ECU has now saved your values, the car is properly tuned, and you can go play. 

_Modified by GTItus at 2:02 PM 2-26-2008_

_Modified by GTItus at 2:04 PM 2-26-2008_


_Modified by GTItus at 2:06 PM 2-26-2008_


----------



## kda33 (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (GTItus)*

Watching this topic


----------



## Greengt1 (Aug 27, 2006)

*Re: (kda33)*

bumperooo


----------



## g60vw (Oct 3, 2002)

*Re: (Greengt1)*

I will finally be needing this again soon. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Garth


----------



## Stilios (May 8, 2008)

*Re: (g60vw)*

This is my first post so hello everybody, I come from Croatia and this is a great forum, i've learned so many usefull things here http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Back on topic: 
I'm driving a Golf II 16V PL KE-Jetronic (cis-e is the term here right?) and would like to switch to Digifant I but few things a don't understand after reading this topic:
1. do I need that fuel rail or can I come up with something else? Here in Croatia I don't know where to find one








2. what cooling temp sensor should I use - that blue from G60 or stay on my white one? Some people say blue, some that white should work fine - which is better?
3. should I switch to CE2 because I'm planing to put G60 inside after a while and do a MK3 dash swap? How complicated is converting to CE2 from CE?
4. What do I really gain if I go to Digifant I on stock G60 chip? Any extra hp? Will the stock chip even work whit my 16V PL (not planing to chip it later because of engine swaping)?
5. Any pics of Digi I instaled on 16V's? I haven't found much.
I apologize for my not very good english and noobish questions but I'm a rookie still in this game and trying to learn a thing or two, so any help is welcomed









Thanks!


----------



## Greengt1 (Aug 27, 2006)

*Re: (Stilios)*

1. If you are going 16v, then yes, you deffinetly need a rail... 
2. They have the same resistance curves.... just different ways they screw or fit on the engine
3.Ce2 is easier to work with... It is used from 90 to 99... its just that i makes swaps easier... making it plug and play... If you have a donor car.. it will be easy to do it.
4. Digi 1 is just used comonly because it is map sensor based.. and is tunable via chip... The G60 chip will not be sutable for the 16v because of different air flow productivity... It is VERY ADVISABLE to get a chip for 16v's period.
5. It doesnt look too much different but here is a couple of forums that are based on 16v's on digi 1...
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...age=1


----------



## Stilios (May 8, 2008)

*Re: (Greengt1)*

Where to find that fuel rail - can I took it from some other engine?
What about the chip - is there something on the ebay maybe or it has to be made somewhere?
Thanx http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## vwpat (Oct 25, 2000)

*Re: (Stilios)*

no other engine although a 1.8T rail can be modded to work (lengthen the 4 "legs".) BBM, Ross, etc. has the rails and would probably ship to you. There is a guy near me that makes them and sells on Ebay so that is another option. As far as chips, SNS could do one or maybe Techtonics.
Edit: your car being a 90 may already be CE2 depending on production date. 


_Modified by vwpat at 10:16 AM 5-9-2008_


----------



## Stilios (May 8, 2008)

*Re: (vwpat)*

Saddly it's CE 1








Thnx, I'll try to found something on ebay http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## vwpat (Oct 25, 2000)

*Re: (Stilios)*

here is the one I was talking about: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...:1123 
I know nothing about it but says he ships to Europe.


_Modified by vwpat at 5:09 PM 5-9-2008_


----------



## Stilios (May 8, 2008)

*Re: (vwpat)*

Yes, that's what I need







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Greengt1 (Aug 27, 2006)

*Re: (Stilios)*

please dont but that.....
i had fitment issues when i bought mine when he first started making them...
I would say save up and buy a bbm one...
I can ship it to you if you want.. I dont have any problem with the usps.


----------



## water_wetter (Jun 2, 2006)

*Re: (Greengt1)*

i have one of his and it fits perfectly. definitely worth the money, bbm is all for show, billet does no good on a track car.


----------



## toy_vw (Feb 11, 2006)

quick one guys.... my harness has a plug with a pink with white stripe and brown..Bently says its high oil pressure switch...do I need this on the 16v swap or no..I dont see anything else anywhre about this sensor...thanks


----------



## machine_war (Oct 8, 2007)

*Re: (toy_vw)*


----------



## toy_vw (Feb 11, 2006)

ok so i lied...its a red/white wire with a brown wire...2 terminal plug...the bently says its the fuel after run....But...Im not sure.....this is in the main engine harness and im just wondering if its needed....anyone know anyhting about this plug


----------



## dubinprogress (Apr 9, 2006)

*Re: (toy_vw)*

Bump to watch. Good info in here http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Stilios (May 8, 2008)

*Re: (Greengt1)*

Greengt1 can you please contact me about that fuel rail. Thnx!  http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## vwpat (Oct 25, 2000)

*Re: (Stilios)*

bump


----------



## volks25 (Dec 14, 2001)

*Re: (vwpat)*

Anyone tried a WB controller such as the Innovate LC-1 with Digi 1?


----------



## vwpat (Oct 25, 2000)

*Re: (volks25)*

SNS may have and here is one on Digi II. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...ge=25


----------



## vwpat (Oct 25, 2000)

*Re: (vwpat)*

bump


----------



## cabbyhappy (Jun 8, 2007)

Does anyone know if its possible to use a Digi 2 WOT and Idle switch for Digi 1? I took my intake and TB from a passat with the TPS.
Can I attach the WOT and Idle switch to that TB?


----------



## vwpat (Oct 25, 2000)

*Re: (cabbyhappy)*

that TB is for CIS-M and will work as is.


----------



## cabbyhappy (Jun 8, 2007)

So will a Digi 2 TB bolt up to a 16V manifold?


----------



## vwpat (Oct 25, 2000)

*Re: (cabbyhappy)*

yes, but why do you want a digi 2 TB? it does not have the correct switches while a CIS-E or M does.


----------



## cosmo50cc (Aug 12, 2005)

*Re: (vwpat)*

whats a good fuel pressure to run


----------



## dubinprogress (Apr 9, 2006)

*Re: (cosmo50cc)*

Getting ready to use this an awful lot http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## g60vw (Oct 3, 2002)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Using this currently!








Question of the day:
Does it really matter which direction the IAT/Co-Pot is pointed as long as the windows in the tip are still perpendicular to the airflow? i.e- only clocking it 90* at a time, never 45*. The sensor looks like a little round thing and can't possibly know which direction the airflow is coming from, just what temp it is, corrrect?

Another question:
What is a good starting point for the setting of it on an NA 16v?


----------



## 8716valver (Mar 2, 2007)

*Re: (g60vw)*

Mine is on mounted on the back side of the intake tube, positioned perpindicular to the airflow. If you're looking to run an aluminum intake tube then you'll need an aluminum bung, check my sig for a good deal on one.
The so called baseline CoPot setting is 450 ohms. At this setting I was extremely lean 18:1. Mine is set to 250 and my AFR is 14-15.


----------



## g60vw (Oct 3, 2002)

*Re: (8716valver)*

Thanks for the help. Yes I'm running an aluminum intake, but I bought BBM bungs a few years ago, just finally getting to using them







. Hoping to crank this beast over this week, finally, after more years than I care to admit!

















Scrap AEM intakes being morphed into one for my 16v, $Free.fiftyfree:


----------



## 8716valver (Mar 2, 2007)

*Re: (g60vw)*

Awesome!
Keep us updated


----------



## bdcoombs (Jul 28, 2002)

*Re: (Greengt1)*

anyone have any luck putting a bigger map sensor in.
i know someone was trying it recently


----------



## 8716valver (Mar 2, 2007)

*Re: (bdcoombs)*

Bigger map? Which one?


----------



## bdcoombs (Jul 28, 2002)

*Re: (bdcoombs)*

there was a guy in gorgia who is friend with mr. watts who was putting a 3 bar map into the digi1 ecu.


----------



## 20V_DUBBIN (Aug 29, 2007)

*Re: (bdcoombs)*

I have a complete digi 1 swap that i'm going to sell as im going a different route now. PM me if you're interested. And by complete i mean EVERYTHING you need, 2 harnesses, ecu with chip for turbo and N/A, G60 injectors, Co Pot with steel bung, BBM fuel rail with FPR adapter, and 3.5 bar FPR. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## mag29610 (Jan 20, 2010)

*Re: (KingofNod)*

okay so im new to this, i have a 1998 golf was an aba 2.0 automatic. im trying to swap a 1.8 16v into it. now i cant use my 16v wiring harness because the wires dont plug into my fuse box. so i heard i can use my 2.0 aba wiring harness and ecu on the 16v and its a digi swap. so what exactly do i need to do to complete this? is there an easier way i can do this, possibly using the cis and 16v wiring harness and get it to plug into my fusebox? please help me


----------



## sebastian kach (Feb 18, 2010)

Dude, your FPR and filter setup looks brilliant. That's the way I wanna do mine instead of mounting the FPR on the rail.


----------



## sebastian kach (Feb 18, 2010)

So when doing this swap in my rabbit, will I need to use the factory rabbit ignition module or what? Also, what is the difference between the obx and BBM fuel rails?


----------



## sebastian kach (Feb 18, 2010)

blackbunny said:


> _Quote, originally posted by *volks25* »_any diy docs on getting digi 1 in a rabbit gti?
> 
> what like this
> 
> _Quote, originally posted by *blackbunny* »_here is a diagram for keeping the ce1 in a rabbit


 Anyway we can get this reposted?


----------



## Ricecookr (Oct 6, 2010)

I have a 2L 16v digi 1 swap.

My original fuel pump ran out on me and i switched it for a walbro 225 gph.

My car was bucking like crazy, when the fuel return line was pinched everything was back to normal.

Running a plier on the return line, i've test drived the thing and no issues beside high rpm power loss probably caused by my low fuel pressure issue.

Here is a picture of my actual fuel rail, if somebody can identify where it came from i'd appreciate.


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## Svedka (Jul 4, 2008)

manifold and fuel rail is from a obd digi 3 16v made in germany  










http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...th-stock-intake-idea.&p=67685282#post67685282


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## Ricecookr (Oct 6, 2010)

why is the fpr not at the same place? 

and they look way different to me?


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## Svedka (Jul 4, 2008)

the one i posted in the picture has a aftermarket fuel rail opcorn:


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## vwpat (Oct 25, 2000)

Svedka said:


> the one i posted in the picture has a aftermarket fuel rail opcorn:


actually a factory 1.8T one.


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## frechem (Oct 19, 2002)

Ricecookr said:


> why is the fpr not at the same place?
> 
> and they look way different to me?


 One has an ABF fuel rail and the has a 1.8T rail.


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## Ricecookr (Oct 6, 2010)

i can't make the abf one to work. 

Money is running out quick and im contemplating putting a universal fpr with a guage and a screw on the return line, unless anyone see something wrong with my actual setup that i could correct? 

Vacc is on the fpr from tb and i have a walbro pump in the back.


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## Svedka (Jul 4, 2008)

vwpat said:


> actually a factory 1.8T one.


 lmao aftermarket for that application :beer:


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## snikfrits (Aug 19, 2008)

ok. enough is enough. Digi1 uses tps. The throttle body on a G60 only has a idle switch and a WOT switch. correct? The ecu "senses" the thorrtle position by using the difference between each of these switches. correct? 

Basic question- The G60 throttle body I bought has an idle switch and a wot switch. Is that all i need? 

Ce2 fusebox 

1. pull out engine harness 
2. match up plugs and sensors from Motronic harness to Digi1 harness 
3. Pull the extra wires from digi1 harness 
4. My digi1 harness goes all the way to the fuse box. Plug and Play? 
5. Must get digi1 5 pin relay to bring power to the ecu? 
5.5 Wire up injector harness 
6. Vacuum, repray bay, and swap swap swap!


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## snikfrits (Aug 19, 2008)

A few questions: These were marked by the PO of the engine harness







So, I only need to save the wires/sensors that are attached to those. (I can rip detach the rest of the cords?) 








This is one of the harnesses I received- the engine harness 








Is this the accessory harness? I don't need to swap this out, do I? 








There isn't a plug for these on either of the harnesses I received. What am I supposed to do with those? 








This is a hose that was attached to the isv hose...it was unplugged when I received the car. Is this the source of a HUGE vacuum leak?


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## snikfrits (Aug 19, 2008)

any thoughts?


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## Greengt1 (Aug 27, 2006)

snikfrits said:


> ok. enough is enough. Digi1 uses tps. The throttle body on a G60 only has a idle switch and a WOT switch. correct? The ecu "senses" the thorrtle position by using the difference between each of these switches. correct?
> 
> Basic question- The G60 throttle body I bought has an idle switch and a wot switch. Is that all i need?
> 
> ...


some digi 1's use tps... some dont.. I think it depends on if it was a manual or auto car.. (not sure)
The digi 1 with the idle and wot switch only uses the whitches when in each position... nothing in between. There are other sensors (iat/co pot and o2, and map) that are used when neither of the two are bing used.

1. Correct
2. all the plugs from the digi 1 will be hooked up...
3. there are a couple that are not used... ie: the brown plug for the fuel pump afterrun, the pcv heater, (I used them as wires to hook up my oil pressure sensor rather than running new wires for aftermarket gauges)
4. yes because of the way the ecu powers the fuel pump
5. make your own or use a good factory one... your choice
6. yes yes yes


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## Greengt1 (Aug 27, 2006)

Is this the accessory harness? I don't need to swap this out, do I?* No, those are for headlights...*
There isn't a plug for these on either of the harnesses I received. What am I supposed to do with those?* Youre replacing that harness.... take it out and keep it or sell it with the one that went to the fusebox*

This is a hose that was attached to the isv hose...it was unplugged when I received the car. Is this the source of a HUGE vacuum leak? *Dont need it anymore... You can keep isv or delete it.... its not really needed*


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## snikfrits (Aug 19, 2008)

So i'm plugging in all the plugs on the fusebox end ( more than just G1, G2, and F?)

This is slowly getting easier. I plugged in all the sensors that I have for the digi1 harness and there's still a lot of plugs unused. It's just a little intimidating trying to figure out where all the rest of them go.

The reason why I asked if I could take out the wires not attached to G1, G2 and F is because of this picture:







I've been trying to use it as a template of what I need to keep and what I don't. 

I've been using wiring diagrams, but I wish there was an "engine harness" diagram and not just specific parts. I need the colors of the wires! 

Oh well, I guess I get to wait another 4 weeks till i'm on my next break. Thanks for the help.


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## Greengt1 (Aug 27, 2006)

that is not the harness you have.. that is the one that doesnt have mfa tied into it...


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## snikfrits (Aug 19, 2008)

So if I locate all the wires in that picture + the mfa wire(s) I can take out the rest? In the end, will all the connections to the fusebox be used?


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## snikfrits (Aug 19, 2008)

So, in practice, I will replace all the wire plugged into the fusebox by this harness http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx326/snikfrits/100_1638.jpg

and replace them with the plugs on this harness http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx326/snikfrits/100_1633.jpg


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## Greengt1 (Aug 27, 2006)

exactly...


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## snikfrits (Aug 19, 2008)

Do I need to get a O2 sensor for digi1? My car doesn't have one on it currently, so should I get the $38 3 wire mustang sensor? I'm also ordering a wideband, but i'm assuming I can't use that for the ecu AND the gauge.


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## Greengt1 (Aug 27, 2006)

snikfrits said:


> Do I need to get a O2 sensor for digi1? My car doesn't have one on it currently, so should I get the $38 3 wire mustang sensor? I'm also ordering a wideband, but i'm assuming I can't use that for the ecu AND the gauge.


 mustang o2 ftw.. find the 2 heater wires, the signal.... then ground the ground to the chassis.... DONE


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## snikfrits (Aug 19, 2008)

I searched on here a bit and found this part number: 15718 Here's a link. http://boschoxygensensor.com/more_info.asp?AAIA=&pid=31444. Soo close to being done! All I need is this, fuel rail extenders(legs), and a wideband  expensive


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## jeffs vw (Apr 29, 2007)

*Chip*

Does anyone know what chip i need to use for my set up? 16v digi 1? i could not find that on here.


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## snikfrits (Aug 19, 2008)

Try SNS tuning. I've been told that TT can also make chips for your needs, too


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## jeffs vw (Apr 29, 2007)

Thanks:thumbup:


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## 8716valver (Mar 2, 2007)

You can also pm frechem for a chip.


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## snikfrits (Aug 19, 2008)

Does digifant 1 use a different ISV than motronic? I would rather bypass the isv and plug all the necessary vacuum lines, but i've heard that it does more harm than good. Also, I have the digifant 5 pin relay, but do I also need the digifant fuel relay?


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

snikfrits said:


> Try SNS tuning. I've been told that TT can also make chips for your needs, too


Tt chips are a joke. Seriously I've seen the maps and for what you pay it isn't worth it. If anyone here is interested in tuning their digi 1 car search for user "b4s".


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## snikfrits (Aug 19, 2008)

I looked, but didn't find anything


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

B4S

Isn't hard.


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## snikfrits (Aug 19, 2008)

I've searched, with B4S in the username, Digi, Digifant, Digifant 1, and SNS. Are you wanting us to find a thread showing the flaws of SNS, or just the thread that talks about SDS and MS?


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/search.php?searchid=3964519

Message him, I think the is a link in his signature


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## snikfrits (Aug 19, 2008)

Thanksgiving break has come and gone. I made some progress but have a few extra wires chilling around my fusebox. Relay #12 came with the wiring harness I got.

12 Fuel Pump Relay (80, 67 or 167)
1 Main Fusebox Starter Power (not used)
2 Main Fusebox Start/Run Power
3 To ECU (Fuel Pump Turn-On)
4 To Fuse 18, Fuel Pump, Oxygen Sensor Heater
5 G2/6 (not used) *random red/white wire going nowhere. can't find a connection*
6 Main Fusebox Battery Power From 30B
7 G2/7, T1 (not used)
8 Main Fusebox Ground (not used)
9 M/4, U1/8, G2/5 (not used)

I have the #30 digifant control relay that goes in relay slot # 3. There's a couple male single pin wires too. A white/green and a blue/white that lead nowhere. There's also a 3 slot female connector coming from the dash. IIRC the wires were yellow, yellow/red, and red. I'm so close to being done, but these have stumped me.


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

Hmm, hadn't seen this. Check the link in my sig, although you've got to register to see it. I thought I saw someone post it up on a file-hosting site as well. It's a PDF on how to custom tune digi-1, the equipment outlay is ~20, if you can get a chip burner on ebay. The software is freeware, and the files are all free as well. The link in my sig has all the info.

Dave is right, the 16v NA files are not worth the money. The chips are $5 (for the expensive ones), and it takes 30 seconds to burn a file to one. There is no reason to not custom tune Digi-1, if you've got a car set up on one.


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

snikfrits said:


> ok. enough is enough. Digi1 uses tps. The throttle body on a G60 only has a idle switch and a WOT switch. correct? The ecu "senses" the thorrtle position by using the difference between each of these switches. correct?
> 
> Basic question- The G60 throttle body I bought has an idle switch and a wot switch. Is that all i need?


Digi-1 does NOT use a TPS (unless it's a Cali-digi-1 setup, but that is completely different than regular digi-1 from the G60 corrado the rest of the world got). The digi-1 ecu does not 'sense' throttle position, it only knows if the throttle is closed, open, or at WOT. It uses the difference in MAP signal to determine acceleration fueling, as opposed to a TPS like later Motronic cars used. Any digi-1 throttle body with an actual TPS came from an automatic car, that uses the TPS signal to determine shift points/pressure.


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## snikfrits (Aug 19, 2008)

I already got a FI chip from SNS. As for the TPS...I figured that out a while ago. thanks though. I always got confused because some people called it Tps (throttle position sensor) when it's more of an idle position sensor. I'm just stuck on the last random wires on the fusebox side of the digi1 harness.


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## Mathew... (Feb 22, 2009)

anyone have any good/bad experiences with digifant 1 running a 16valve turbo? I'm looking into a custom sns chip. I have an adjustable aeromotive fuel pressure regulator and an aem wideband so i can make sure im never lean. Im running a t3 super 60 at 10lbs with 42lb injectors. Oh and autotech sport cams and autotech 8k springs as well...

Any thoughts on how well digi 1 will run this motor with a custom sns chip?


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## snikfrits (Aug 19, 2008)

Hate "bumping" threads that aren't FS threads, but I really need help. And matthew, if I could do it again, I would go MS. Good luck with getting into contact with sns, but the motor will run fine with an sns chip. I have one now, but I got it from a person on here.


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## whootwhoot (Oct 2, 2009)

back from the dead.

I'm about to make the switch from motronic to digi 1 but i had a few questions before i start to purchase parts. These may sound dumb but i am new (really new) to any sort of modifications to my car. This will be my first "real" project. As of right now this is just for a stock N/A 2.0 16v

bear with me
So how do you go about choosing the correct FPR and and injectors? I understand that for situations that require more fuel you get bigger injectors and a FPR that compensates for the pressure. But how do i know the correct one to get based on MY stock motor? i don't want to get parts just because a DIY said so. I've been looking at the Fuel Injection data for motronic and here they are
System pressure- 6.1-6.6 bar
Differential pressure- 1.3-1.6 bar
Residual pressure- 3.2 bar
based on these values where does a person decide to go with a 3.5 bar FPR and #30 injectors (these are from the motronic to digi DIY) instead of these values do i actually go out and measure the pressure at the injectors themselves?

Also, i am going to install and air/fuel gauge as well as it was strongly recommended. how do i know what the correct ratio is for my car?

sorry if i sound stupid but i like understanding things before diving in. any feedback is appreciated.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Just do it, do not think.

Get a BBM rail and either mk2 or mk3 fpr adapter, stock digi 1 injectors install and go

The bosch fpr's are pretty robust, and will easily bypass the extra pressure/volume from a motronic pump no problem. Ive been doing it for years.


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## whootwhoot (Oct 2, 2009)

Dave926 said:


> Just do it, do not think.
> 
> Get a BBM rail and either mk2 or mk3 fpr adapter, stock digi 1 injectors install and go
> 
> The bosch fpr's are pretty robust, and will easily bypass the extra pressure/volume from a motronic pump no problem. Ive been doing it for years.


so i should go with the 3.0 or 3.5 bar fpr? thanks btw


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## snikfrits (Aug 19, 2008)

I think that depends on what management you're running. Most SNS chips use a 3.5 fpr. Just FYI


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

3 bar is whats stock on digi 1. I would also consider tuning the car yourself. SNS sucks to get in touch with


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## whootwhoot (Oct 2, 2009)

im actually having bbm make me one. ill ask them


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

For the amount of money your going to spend on a bbm chip you can get a chip burner for less, and tune as much as you want. A wideband isn't a bad idea here either.


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## whootwhoot (Oct 2, 2009)

It was $100. Is that alot?


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## exjnv (Jun 8, 2006)

Hey guys... Ive got a problem with my digi1 16v setup. its a 1.8l 16v on digi1 with an sns chip. the car runs great but when the WOT switch is engaged the car falls on its face.. any ideas? bad switches or bad chip? stock motor with external oil cool and im running no thermostat


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Your missing the point, its a map based tune. Its a generic tune that might fit your car ok, but will never be 100%.


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## Ho11ywood (Jun 4, 2009)

*Oil Sensors*

I just got my Corrado 16vT running and i cant figure out where to put my low oil pressure switch. Ive seen the Digi 2 sensor pick floating around but i havent seen a Digi 1. :facepalm:


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

www.a2resource.com


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## Ho11ywood (Jun 4, 2009)

Is that for me Dave?


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## Ho11ywood (Jun 4, 2009)

Nevermind i solved it myself. I used the low oil pressure switch and the spacer thats on the corrado g60 head and threaded it into the back of the 16v head and it works perfect.


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## Ricecookr (Oct 6, 2010)

This thread is so damn dead... anways.

I have a 87 jetta, ce1 fusebox

2L 16v swap.

Digifant 1.


Car was running.

All of a sudden i can't get it to run, I have gas, fuel pressure, i also have power at the coil.

The only thing remotely related to wiring or electronics was that i welded on the body with power to the ecu still on, i never heard any problems about this but some peoples say its a big deal.

I cant get any spark, engine cranks strong but doesn't run.

Any help? just had the wiring redone and it was running fine :facepalm:


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

You probably nuked the ecu. Check my threads that I started, your having the same issues that I did.


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## Ricecookr (Oct 6, 2010)

the car started a few times after the weld so i dont see how it could be nuked?

how do i check the ecu?

I have my bentley handy for checking the coil and such but not the ecu :facepalm:


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## Ricecookr (Oct 6, 2010)

I hate you for making me search for a digi 1 ecu.

But i love you because looking thru your thread, i found out green wire was off the - pole of the coil. :facepalm:


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## Ho11ywood (Jun 4, 2009)

Ricecookr said:


> This thread is so damn dead... anways.
> 
> I have a 87 jetta, ce1 fusebox
> 
> ...


Make sure your hall sender is plugged in.


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## Ho11ywood (Jun 4, 2009)

Does anyone have the side view picture of the 16v head with the digi 1 sensor positions? :wave:


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## Ho11ywood (Jun 4, 2009)

*Something like this!*


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

read the directions on that original picture


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## Ho11ywood (Jun 4, 2009)

*Here is the original*



Dave926 said:


> read the directions on that original picture












Cant you just say yes thats correct or no dont do that?


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## Ho11ywood (Jun 4, 2009)

*Thanks for nothing*

Well i went ahead and made myself a wire harness to plug into the black digi 1 coolant plug with a spade terminal on the other end and viola my temprature gauge works. All you have to do is cut off the black digi 1 plug and install a spade terminal on the hotwire and plug into #5. The hotwire on my car is yellow and red and the ground is brown of course. Make sure you ground that brown off. eace:


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## whootwhoot (Oct 2, 2009)

so i have this charcoal solenoid valve unplugged. Does anyone have any idea what i should do with it? Plug the line?


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## MSpeed (Jun 15, 2005)

Im in the prosses of converting my 16v KR to digifant, but im wondering about the engine harness. The two plugs by the ecu plug. Do all of these wires need power? how do i connect these?


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## Hoodie89Golf (Sep 13, 2007)

I am in the process of converting a 2.0 16v to digi 1. I have most of it hooked up and figured out but was stumped on the o2 sensor. I narrowed it down to one plug that I think has to be it but it doesnt look like any of the pictures I have seen. Maybe previous owner switched it out or I am just really confused. Anyways I have some pictures of it, if this is infact the o2 plug how should I go about splicing or whatever to make it work with a ce-2 plug? I know this is an old topic so I posted in both digi 1 threads hoping someone will see it. Thanks


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## elpitufillo (Apr 23, 2012)

Back from the dead 

Well, i been searching for some days now, and i dont seem to find exactly whats i need 

So i got a corrado g60 with 2.0 16v n/a digi 1 build now 
It has the stock golf throtle body, wich got a vacum slot in the back (near of the firewall) and i have it open, because if i cap it, my car just dosnt idle and dies. 

Any info? 

O yeah, right now im running on the g60 stock ecu, im about to buy the chip from bbm 

Thanks!!


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## Skursh (Oct 23, 2011)

Bringing this back to life.. 

I wanna keep this cheap, I am on a tight budget.

I'm new here and kinda new to this. 
This is my first time switching over to something else. 

I have a 1990 g60 corrado
1.8l 16v from a gti. Setup for motronic 
G60 tranny
G60 clutch
I am putting the motor in them and I have to switch over to digi 1
I am not going turbo,I want a reliable dd!!

I have 
1. G60 wire harness
2. G60 Ecu
3. G60 injectors
4. G60 radiator 
5. G60 bay harness
6. Motor mounts, bbm solid ft motor mount
7. I have both g60 and 16v throttle bodies

I need 
1. Fuel rail. (found on eBay, 79.00,http://www.ebay.com/itm/OBX-H-Flow-...d-/150936491967?forcev4exp=true&forceRpt=true)
2. G60/16v co pot sensor bung from bbm
3. A chip, idk which one I need


What radiator hoses will fit?
Can I use a g60 fpr?
What else do I need? 
Do I need to extend or buy adapters for the fuel lines?

I read a lot of this and everyone keeps saying something different

Anyone please help!! Im confused


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## 9aba16vt (Feb 28, 2011)

So to start off.. you need to get everything to convert the g60 to 16v, then work your way to all of the other things. You can go 16v na with exactly what you have now.


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## Skursh (Oct 23, 2011)

So I don't need to convert to efi.


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## 9aba16vt (Feb 28, 2011)

Yes you do. All you need is to buy a rail (dont know about the obx), fuel injector inserts (for the manifold) or take the ones out of the g60 head, get adaptors for the fuel lines (summit has them) and make a harness for the injectors. The fuel pressure regulator is fine to use. The g60 injectors are good enough for 16v na but if sc or turbo, you need another chip and injectors. 

So your best bet now is to go 16na and work on finding the pieces for 16vg60 in the future.

Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk 2


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## Skursh (Oct 23, 2011)

Can anyone give me a list of what is needed. Im doing this cheap as possible. I read that I can use the g60 harness and Ecu. If anyone knows what I have to do, please tell me. 
I'm not that good with wireing(as you can see)


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## Skursh (Oct 23, 2011)

Didn't see the post above mine. 

Can I use a g60 fuel rail? 

I can get one cheap.


I think I should start a build thread and go from there.


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## 9aba16vt (Feb 28, 2011)

No, has to be a 16v rail. I just don't know if the OBX is made good or not.


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## Skursh (Oct 23, 2011)

Does anyone have a chip I can use for this? Is it possible to use the g60 one?


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## 9aba16vt (Feb 28, 2011)

Chip goes with injectors and visa versa... You're fine with what you have.


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## Skursh (Oct 23, 2011)

Ok here is what I got for motor/trans 

1.8 16v - all new gaskets
New rear motor mount
Bbm solid ft motor mount
G60 harness
G60 Ecu
G60 bay harness
G60 injectors
G60 fpr (fuel pressure reg) and fps (fuel pressure sensor
Bbm fuel rail (http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/495/BBM_Billet_16V_Fuel_Rail)
Bbm fuel rail fitting (http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/2643/BBM_Fuel_Rail_Fitting_Kit_8v_Digifant_16v)
Bbm fpr adapter (http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/2643/BBM_Fuel_Rail_Fitting_Kit_8v_Digifant_16v)
digifant 1 8v/16v Injector seat (http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/1222/Digifant_Fuel_Injector_Seat_Set_of_4)

G60 trans with new clutch
Non abs bracket with mk2 master cylinder and brake booster

3 questions 
1 do I need anything else?
2 is there anything I should get over the bbm parts?
3. Do I use the g60 or the 16v throttle body?


Thanks for all the help so far. I know these are probably simple questions, but I wanna make sure I do this right.


----------



## Toni32 (Nov 2, 2012)

Hi all.The engine revs very slow.At full throttle 2500 rpm max.any ideas?


KR,no turbo\supercharg etc.Digifant 1 from PG,fuel pump from VR6


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## Skursh (Oct 23, 2011)

I'm not to sure but I read here http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1305329-16v-Digifant-1-FAQ&highlight=Corrado about half way down. Mrkrad says that it can be the air to fuel ratio.


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## Toni32 (Nov 2, 2012)

Skursh said:


> I'm not to sure but I read here http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1305329-16v-Digifant-1-FAQ&highlight=Corrado about half way down. Mrkrad says that it can be the air to fuel ratio.


Yes, i read it.But i think,thats my problem in fuel rail or fuel pupm with low fuel pressure.Ist it?


----------



## euroteknique (May 16, 2004)

do you have a air fuel gauge? do you have a boost/vac gauge? these will tell you alot


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## o2bad455 (Aug 22, 2003)

*Digi-1 '88 Scirocco ABA 16V Turbo*

I’m bumping an old thread because it's the only one that came up in my search. I'm prepping a car and, being new to Digi-1, could use some tuning tips. It’s a Scirocco 16V converted to Digi-1 ECU with engine upgraded to a 2.0L ABA 16V Turbo (Holset HY-35) and Digi-1 ECU with custom SNS chip. It’s currently running too rich from idle to low boost. That said, it lacks any idle stabilization valve (ISV) or bypass, so I had to bump up the idle with the throttle cable thereby lifting it off of the idle switch (although manually depressing the switch doesn’t seem to make much difference). Although the car was last tuned for mid-20s psi boost, I’m de-tuning to 10 psi for now. It’s running so rich, though, that it keeps fouling the wideband O2 sensor (with Innovate controller, FWIW) in a matter of minutes. I don’t know Digi-1 yet, but it looks like my choices for leaning it out could include:

1. Fuel pressure gauge reads about 40 PSI, but not sure how accurate. There’s a screw on the FPR, but it doesn’t seem to adjust pressure. It looks like a VW 1.8T rail with a 3.5 (or 4?) bar regulator. I might try swapping in a 3 bar regulator, but is there anything more easily adjustable that I could plug in there?

2. Swapping out the 630cc injectors for something smaller.

3. I read in the first few pages of this thread that the Digi-1 intake air temp sensor (IAT or “CO Pot”) is tunable, but I don’t see any adjustment on it. I’ve measured the resistances between its 3 pins as 4.5K Ohms, 495 Ohms, and 4K Ohms. Is the internal resistance (and CO level) adjustable by popping off the rectangular white plastic cover and/or the round metal seal? From what I’ve read, I guess I only need to add resistance so I suppose I could make up an add-in harness with potentiometer, but I’ve also read it’s a live 5V that would fry the ECU if accidentally shorted so I’m leaning away from add-ons here.

4. I guess another possibility might be altering resistance of the coolant temp sensor input. There are two there: a Digi-1 CTS clipped into a plastic neck and a white-top CIS-Motronic CTS threaded into the head. The Digi-1 harness connector matches either, but they both seem to read and perform about the same. Unfortunately, it requires removing the neck and spilling coolant to swap between them since the neck is pinned under a protrusion from the 16V head. If adding external resistance here might help lean it out, though, it seems like a safer route versus dealing with the hot 5V while adding external resistance to the CO pot (if adjusting its internal resistance isn't possible).

Any other ideas?

Thanks!


EDIT: I'll try choice #3 (above) tomorrow, as I've just read on a UK site that the metal disk I saw on the IAT or CO pot is just a tamper cover that needs to be removed to access the CO adjustment (assuming for the moment that the SNS chip still uses that CO pot as a recognized input).

EDIT #2: Success! Adjusting the IAT's internal potentiometer from 495 Ohms to 650 Ohms was all it needed. As a bonus, the idle speed picked up so I could loosen the throttle cable enough to activate the idle switch on the throttle body.


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