# Repair (rather than replacement) of Variable Intake Actuator Arms - V8 engine [TOC-done]



## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Variable intake actuator arms*

I've just replaced the broken plastic VW arms with machined aluminium arms from gruvenparts.com (~$50, rather than ~$750 for the two VW kits you would require). I have to say, contrary to what the dealer told me, the difference is fairly dramatic. The throttle feels generally more responsive, and the acceleration is significantly improved, especially around the 3000 rpm mark. Just before 3000 rpm, it almost feels now like a turbo kicking in. I'm pretty sure they must have been broken when I bought the car, I've never known the engine feel like this. They're very simple to fit, they clip on to the nipples with a good squeeze on a pair of channel lock pliers. Highly recommended!
To check your own, just pull up on the black plastic V8 cover at the front of the engine.


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## JulianBenjamin (Jun 22, 2007)

*Re: Variable intake actuator arms (invisiblewave)*

How do you remove the existing (broken) ones? Just pry them off?


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Variable intake actuator arms (invisiblewave)*

Here is a direct link to the web page of the aftermarket manufacturer "Gruvenparts", who fabricate the replacement variable intake actuator arms out of metal, rather than the original plastic material. I am pretty sure this is the part that Martin is referring to in his post above.
VW 4.2 V8 Intake Manifold Linkage Arms.
Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Variable intake actuator arms (invisiblewave)*

*Archival Note:*
Here are links to two earlier discussions where forum members reported difficulty with the intake actuator arms on their V8 engines. It appears to me that the solution reported above by Martin (the Gruvenparts aftermarket kit) is the solution to this problem.
Facing $4,000 USD and more repair costs
Intake manifold problem on '04 Phaeton.
Michael


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Thanks for this thread guys, we are happy to support VW/Audi owners with parts such as these!
This project came about when a VW tech called me and said he had 4 4.2 V8's in his shop, all with 2 broken links and he was about to drop an ABSURD amount of $$ at the VW dealer. 
We told him to hold off and we would have a new billet sets ready for him to use instead at less than 1/10th the dealers plastic part cost.
This is exactly how we find opportunities, so if you have any other problems with these cars please let us know!
And thanks for making this post Michael! 
Here is our official advertisement. Click on the pic to go to the product page.

* Audi/VW 4.2V8 Intake Linkage Arms ! *

*GruvenParts.com 4.2L V8 Intake Manifold Linkage Arms Warranted for Life !*
Got a 4.2L V8 Audi or VW ? Then you had better check your intake manifold actuator arms (p/n 077198327A)! The OEM versions quickly break, leaving your intake manifold rod stuck, causing poor idle, drivability, loss of power, and poor fuel mileage. This is a very common problem on the 4.2L V8. 
Our intake manifold arms have an aerospace grade billet aluminum body with thread on carbon fiber composite ball end links. The composite end links are actually STRONGER than the aerospace grade aluminum body itself! 
*This is how we can warranty them for life!*
Dont go to the VW/Audi dealer and pay upwards of $400 for the new actuator kit when all you need are the arms (the actuators themselves rarely fail). And DONT pay that kind of money for another set of plastic arms that will break in quick order.
Go with GruvenParts.com and NEVER WORRY ABOUT THIS AGAIN !
Fits the following vehicles:
2004-2007 VW Phaeton V8
2003+ VW Touareg V8
2002-2004 Audi A6/Avant
1998-2004 Audi A6/S6 Quattro
2000+ Audi A8/S8 Quattro


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: Variable intake actuator arms (JulianBenjamin)*

Yes, just pry them with a small screwdriver and/or lever them with a small pair of pliers. It's a bit fiddly to get them off, getting them on is much easier. The right hand diaphragm (as you look at it) is simple to remove, just pull off the vacuum tube and undo the hex nut. I took that one off to get a better look at what I was dealing with. The ratio of difficulty of the job to satisfaction at the result must be one of the greatest of any job I've ever done on a car! It's easy, it saves a small fortune, it significantly improves engine performance, and the machine aluminium parts look much nicer than the black plastic ones! Pictures to follow.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: Variable intake actuator arms (PanEuropean)*

Ok, I'm not sure what you mean by difficulty hosting, or hosting them for me, is it not just a case of pasting them here and the forum server hosts them, or can you only post links??? Anyway, here are the video and stills hosted on my own webserver, hopefully.
To fit the arms, once you've got the old ones off, the diaphragms just pull out into the "unactuated" position, which gets them close enough to the intake actuator to clip them on.
This is the link to the video of the vacuum diaphragms moving as the engine starts. The diaphragm closes, pulls the arms, and turns the variable intake actuators. I don't know the correct technical terms for all these devices, so all the smart alecs out there feel free to chime in and provide a more technically accurate description:
http://www.invisiblewave.com/p...o.wmv
Here's a shot of the arms in the "unactuated" position with the engine off and the vacuum dissipated.








And here's a shot of the arms in the "actuated" position with the engine started.









_Modified by invisiblewave at 11:06 AM 11-8-2009_


_Modified by invisiblewave at 12:20 PM 11-8-2009_


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## zenmoused (Nov 6, 2008)

Very good to know. Wouldn't one of these arms breaking set off a CEL? I guess what I'm asking is if it's even worth checking on them if the car isn't showing a malfunction?


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: (zenmoused)*

You'd think so, wouldn't you? But it doesn't.


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## JulianBenjamin (Jun 22, 2007)

*Re: Variable intake actuator arms (invisiblewave)*

Great; just ordered a set for myself.
I have noticed a distinct lag in low-rpm acceleration (only one bolt is broken on mine), so I would recommend replacing them if broken.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: Variable intake actuator arms (JulianBenjamin)*

Yeah, the pickup is definitely improved both at the low end and higher up. I could tell as soon as I set off up the alley, and when you're motoring, the throttle response is instant. Before, it felt as if there was a slight lag when you put your foot down at high speed. It was both arms on my car, so I don't know if you'll see quite such a noticeable difference.


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

*Re: Variable intake actuator arms (invisiblewave)*


_Quote, originally posted by *invisiblewave* »_Yeah, the pickup is definitely improved both at the low end and higher up. I could tell as soon as I set off up the alley, and when you're motoring, the throttle response is instant. Before, it felt as if there was a slight lag when you put your foot down at high speed. It was both arms on my car, so I don't know if you'll see quite such a noticeable difference.

You should notice a nice difference with the intake working properly. Its actually very well designed, allowing for both short and long intake runners to take advantage of 2 harmonic frequencies. The problem is in the execution of the idea : namely, cheap plastic parts. 
Once those arms snap, the intake change over valve is partially open, allowing air to travel down the wrong set of intake paths, and preventing the manifold from reaching harmonic frequency. So you loose about 40 hp, and driveability suffers.
While we're at this, are there any problems with the intake runner bushings wearing out? We build those for the VR6 motors and its a big problem. 
Who wants to put together a DIY and get their name in lights on our site ??


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## Phat One (Jul 10, 2009)

*Re: Variable intake actuator arms (GruvenParts.com)*

I would be more than willing to put together a DIY. However, right now, my actuator arms are intact so I have no immediate need to change them. If they break in the near future I will definitely buy the Gruven parts and take some pictures to make a DIY for the forum. My car has 47k miles so it shouldn't be long before it happens








Graham


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Keep an eye on them, Im surprised they have lasted as long!


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## itsallbeendonebefore (May 13, 2007)

ordered a pair yest. once i get my car back from the dealer, i will make sure to do a step by step diy with pics if noone has gotten to it before me.


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## GS340 (Oct 26, 2007)

*Re: Variable intake actuator arms (PanEuropean)*

just check my car and one was broken.


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

*Re: Variable intake actuator arms (GS340)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GS340* »_just check my car and one was broken.


Do not go to the dealer then! Unless its to tell them you dont need their $400 plastic part because GruvenParts.com has you covered !


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Variable intake actuator arms (GruvenParts.com)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GruvenParts.com* »_Do not go to the dealer then! Unless its to tell them you dont need their $400 plastic part because GruvenParts.com has you covered !









OK.... We don't slam dealers here in this forum.








One alternative, for folks that don't want to do the work themselves, would be to order the replacement kit from GruvenParts.com and then take the kit to the dealer for installation.
My guess is that most VW technicians (and service advisors) would be fascinated to find out that there is an aftermarket supplier making a kit to solve this problem that does not require replacement of the whole darn assembly. I am quite certain that these technicians and service advisors would begin to order these kits from GruvenParts.com once they learn about them. It's a win-win deal for both the service department and the customer.
Michael


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## GS340 (Oct 26, 2007)

*Re: Variable intake actuator arms (PanEuropean)*

parts ordered. charge on the CC!! Did you ship!! ????


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Yes, in fact we have already have several dealer orders. The technicians love them. The bean counters probably do not though!
Parts shipping today, tracking # coming soon.


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## JulianBenjamin (Jun 22, 2007)

*Re: (GruvenParts.com)*

Just installed mine; decided to just replace the one that snapped instead of both for now.
No pictures; however, as a note, you might want to have a screw-type c-clamp in order to install the new ones. Doesn't just push in, and you don't want to start hammering it in. I clamped it, started turning the screw until it just popped in, and that was it.
Get a small clamp, as there's not much room in there.


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Thanks Julian!
I recommend using a pair of needle nose pliers with the ends wrapped in tape to protect it from marring the finish.
All orders have shipped and parts in stock, let us know if any other questions.


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

We appreciate the additional orders. Those parts have now also shipped.
We just turned 20 feet of 6061-T651 aluminum plate into beautifully machined linkage arms for these cars, so we have you covered








http://www.GruvenParts.com


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## pearlss1977 (Oct 5, 2008)

*Re: (GruvenParts.com)*

where under the hood do i check to see if mine are broken? I am starting to feel a power loss since i got my car 1 year ago.

David


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## VWGlf00GL (Feb 14, 2005)

*Re: (pearlss1977)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pearlss1977* »_where under the hood do i check to see if mine are broken? I am starting to feel a power loss since i got my car 1 year ago.

David

Hi David!
1. Open the hood.
2. Remove the V8 plastic shield (a light tug up, you'll feel it pop out). 
3. Under the plastic shield, you'll see the intake pumps there are two of them.
4. Check for broken linkage arms..








http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








- Adrian

_formatting changed to call up full-size picture instead of thumbnail_


_Modified by PanEuropean at 1:37 AM 11-24-2009_


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## GS340 (Oct 26, 2007)

*Re: (VWGlf00GL)*

parts arrived yesterday. I'll post pictures of the install.


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Good to hear. Post up some pics installed when you can


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## pearlss1977 (Oct 5, 2008)

*Re: (VWGlf00GL)*

Thanks Adrian
I checked today and sure enough they are both broken.
Out of curiousity do u or anyone else know if the real driver platinum warrant covers this repair?
David


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (pearlss1977)*

Hi David:
I cannot imagine why an extended warranty (service contract) would not cover this - it is a straightforward case of a part failing (not wearing out), and neither the part nor the labour are excessivly expensive. Plus, I am sure that the service contract companies are aware of this issue by now.
Michael


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## PHAETON8 (Feb 12, 2006)

*Re: (GruvenParts.com)*

Received new links last week. Took under 10 min. to install both!


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

*Re: (PHAETON8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PHAETON8* »_Received new links last week. Took under 10 min. to install both!























Beautiful !!


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Its all in stock, ready to ship asap !
http://www.GruvenParts.com


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## excitablekid (Dec 30, 2008)

*Re: Variable intake actuator arms (invisiblewave)*

Just yesterday I was turning into a brisk line of traffic, and felt a sickening hesitatation at just the wrong time that made me run back to this thread to read the details. I admit that I don't always notice it. After that, I pulled away from turns in S mode, intentionally aggressively, and could not recreate the hesitation.
Imagine my disappointment when I check my actuator arms today, and found they were intact. Plastic, and intact.
Ironic, isn't it, when you are crestfallen because your car isn't broken?
But really I am worried that I don't want to trust the car in an aggressive merge in the future, and I really don't know where next to look. Spark plugs were just replaced, with the 60Kmile service and it seems that it's not the transmission, as the engine seemed to sag, then catch. And I have noted it only intermittently in the past.
Erick
You know, I can't make it happen. I wonder if the hestation could have been because I had gotten into the car less than 3 minutes earlier, and the car wasn't warm. 
I really meant this note to be funny, that I was unhappy that I didn't have broken actuator arms, so I could get 40 more horsepower so easily. But my car is NOT short on power.



_Modified by excitablekid at 5:35 AM 12-2-2009_


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

*Re: Variable intake actuator arms (excitablekid)*

I had the same feeling as when I checked today, I was disappointed to find that the plastic arms of my 70 000 miles V8 were going strong








P.


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Thats amazing they are still intact. I would still recommend replacing them with the billet versions however, as you know they will break its just a matter of time.


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

These make great stocking stuffers !!


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

bump for billet !


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

* Audi/VW 4.2V8 Intake Linkage Arms ! *

*GruvenParts.com 4.2L V8 Intake Manifold Linkage Arms Warranted for Life !*
Got a 4.2L V8 Audi or VW ? Then you had better check your intake manifold actuator arms (p/n 077198327A)! The OEM versions quickly break, leaving your intake manifold rod stuck, causing poor idle, drivability, loss of power, and poor fuel mileage. This is a very common problem on the 4.2L V8. 
Our intake manifold arms have an aerospace grade billet aluminum body with thread on carbon fiber composite ball end links. The composite end links are actually STRONGER than the aerospace grade aluminum body itself! 
*This is how we can warranty them for life!*
Dont go to the VW/Audi dealer and pay upwards of $400 for the new actuator kit when all you need are the arms (the actuators themselves rarely fail). And DONT pay that kind of money for another set of plastic arms that will break in quick order.
Go with GruvenParts.com and NEVER WORRY ABOUT THIS AGAIN !
Fits the following vehicles:
2004-2007 VW Phaeton V8
2003+ VW Touareg V8
2002-2004 Audi A6/Avant
1998-2004 Audi A6/S6 Quattro
2000+ Audi A8/S8 Quattro


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

*EVERYTHING IS IN STOCK NOW !! *
http://www.GruvenParts.com


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Bump for all Phaeton owners !!


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (GruvenParts.com)*

Enough, already...








We have a Phaeton Forum 'Table of Contents' (FAQ by Category) - I can put a link to this post in there, if that would save you the "daily bump".
Michael


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Sorry, we want to make sure the part is out there but I guess this is too much.
Thanks for the link in the TOC. I will throttle back bumping this link, I know it gets annoying but with all forums the threads get lost if they are not near the top and we have made quite a few of these parts to support the 4.2 owners.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: (GruvenParts.com)*

And very grateful we are too! Mine are still working fine.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*

Hi Paul:
One of the nicest things about our forum is that we have a group of people who are very helpful to each other. I can promise you that if a new forum member arrives and mentions that he/she is having difficulties with the engine, or needs these parts, one of the forum regulars will post a link to this thread the same day.
I'm quite impressed that you make this better-engineered STC part as a replacement for the plastic VW part. Have you identified any other parts on the V8 or W12 engine cars (or elsewhere on the Phaeton) that you think would be good candidates for a STC part from your company?
Fellow forum members: What suggestions can we offer Paul for STC parts manufacturing?
Michael


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*

Something that I think concerns 100% of the Phaetons (all engines): a latch for the central armrest








P.


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## madreg98 (Jun 1, 2009)

totally agree about the arm latch rest. BTW-installed the new manifold linkage arms and they are working great. beautiful parts.


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## mlong1 (Dec 6, 2007)

*Re: (Zaphh)*

Absolutely agree, the latch in the center armrest- mine is broken and the two other Phaetons I checked out before buying mine had theirs broken as well.


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Can someone send pictures of the latch assy? We will take a look and see what can be done.
Any other suggestions for new parts to go after, pls also fwd them.
Those who help us design new parts get freebies








[email protected]


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: (GruvenParts.com)*

I can attest to that! Alas, my latch is intact!


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (GruvenParts.com)*

Hi Paul:
The latch (small locking tang) that is embedded in the armrest cover between the two front seats is a known weak point in early production (2003-2004) Phaetons. VW redesigned the part in 2005 to make it more robust. The early production parts would break, and as a result, the cover for the bin below the armrest of 5 seat vehicles (between the two front seats) would not latch closed.
I have a part at home (Vancouver Island) that I can take some photos of, and I will do this when I get back out west after Jan 1. However, I am not sure that it is possible to remove the existing latch assembly (the tang) without destroying the whole armrest cover in the process. 
Michael


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Michael -
Yes pls send me some photos and I will research this locally. We would love to build more parts for Phaetons, you guys are some of the most dedicated owners Ive come across and we definitely want to support you.
[email protected]


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: (GruvenParts.com)*

Paul, did you get latch photos yet? If not, let me know and I'll take some of my (broken) latch.


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## 04phaeton (Feb 19, 2009)

*Re: (invisiblewave)*

Checked my intake arms yesterday - sure enough, one of the arms has disconnected from the ball joint.
It actually broke inside the arm end.
I've had my Phaeton for over 70,000km already and never noticed a difference so they were probably broken before I got the car (it has 140,000 km on it now).
I'm really looking forward to seeing the increase in acceleration when I get the Gruvenparts intake arms delivered.
It's things like this that makes this forum kicks butt.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: (04phaeton)*

Yes, which makes the change to the title of this thread all the more puzzling! There is no repairing those arms! The real solution is an upgrade to the superior Gruven product!


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (invisiblewave)*

Enough of the fanboi pimping, already.
Michael


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*

The guy saved me, and several other people it seems, from being ripped off by VW to the tune of about $700, so he deserves a little pimping, imo.


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## GS340 (Oct 26, 2007)

*Re: (invisiblewave)*

I installed mine a few weeks ago... Every seems OK. I think the mileage went up and there is more power for sure.


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

*Re: (invisiblewave)*


_Quote, originally posted by *invisiblewave* »_The guy saved me, and several other people it seems, from being ripped off by VW to the tune of about $700, so he deserves a little pimping, imo.

Thank you, we want to support you guys any way we can.
Michael perhaps we can sticky this thread to the top of the forum? As you know the threads move very quickly and become buried. We have to ensure sales of these parts to cover costs of development (and the $$$ monthly advertsing fee on this forum). 
No I have not received any pictures of the latch yet but I would like to begin on this and other projects for you guys ASAP. Please email directly - [email protected]
Cheers and a safe and happy new years


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (GruvenParts.com)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GruvenParts.com* »_Michael perhaps we can sticky this thread to the top of the forum?

It would be more effective if you contacted the Vortex advertising department and asked them to associate the words "intake actuator arm" or "4.2 engine" with your banner ad, so that whenever these words show up in a post, your banner ad for this product will be displayed at the top of the page.
Doing that will ensure that your advertising dollars reach exactly the people who are interested in purchasing this part. Like I mentioned earlier, this kind of part is not a discretionary purchase - it's not like a Bluetooth adapter or a fart can, something that a vehicle owner sees and then decides "Gee, I think I'll buy one of those and put it on my car". It's more like a filling for your tooth or a brake pad - it's something that people only buy when they have a specific need for the part.
I'm all in favour of supporting Vortex advertisers - that should be clear from my first post on page 1 of this thread (the third post from the top), and the fact that I took the time to write GruvenParts an email and advise them that this subject was under discussion in the forum. I also visited my VW dealer in Toronto a few days ago and mentioned this product to the service manager there, who told me he planned to order a half a dozen of these little arms to keep in stock. 
Let's keep in mind that there is a balance to be struck between "useful and interesting editorial content" vs. "pimping threads". The reason that Phaeton owners come to this forum in the first place is because it contains "useful and interesting editorial content". And, like I mentioned earlier, I am pretty sure that if any new member posts an inquiry about intake actuator arms, another forum member (or moderator) will likely direct them to this post within 8 hours or less. For that reason, I don't see any need to keep on continually bumping the thread so that it stays on page 1 of the topic list.
*However:* I might be wrong about this. Perhaps many of the other forum members would actually like to see this thread continually bumped so that it is on the first page of the topic list every day. So, let's open the question up to all: Should we bump this thread every day to keep it on page 1 of the topic list, or; has the information been sufficiently promulgated?
Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (GruvenParts.com)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GruvenParts.com* »_No I have not received any pictures of the latch yet but I would like to begin on this and other projects for you guys ASAP.

Hello Paul:
You can find pictures of the bin lid latch at this post: Broken Latch on Storage Bin (between front seats - 5 seater vehicle). The pictures I have posted are of a new bin lid, the latch on that lid is not broken. As soon as I get some spare time, I will install this new part on my Phaeton and ship the old part (with the broken latch) to you for teardown.
You will need to determine whether or not it is possible to fit a new latch to an existing cover without destroying the cover. My guess is that it is probably possible to do this, by using a trim removal tool to pry the assembly apart.
Michael


_Modified by PanEuropean at 5:23 AM 1-6-2010_


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## KCPhaetonTech (Aug 17, 2008)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*

Vote #1

_Quote, originally posted by *PanEuropean* »_
sufficiently promulgated
Michael


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: (KCPhaetonTech)*

Vote #2
Occasional promotion to the top of the list. 
This is an issue which evidently affects a large number of V8 engines, but which doesn't generate any diagnostic codes, and isn't likely to be noticed until someone deliberately removes the front engine cover and eyeballs the defective VW parts. Nor does it get spotted during routine maintenance (mine had just been serviced when I found out the arms were broken). Without reading this thread, most V8 owners are unlikely to know it needs to be checked.
In addition, it's a cheap and simple DIY task that anybody can do.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (invisiblewave)*


_Quote, originally posted by *invisiblewave* »_Occasional promotion to the top of the list. This is an issue which evidently affects a large number of [cars]...

That's what the Phaeton Forum 'Table of Contents' (FAQ by Category) is for. The FAQ contains direct links to about 130 topics that all affect a large number of cars. Can you imagine what the first 5 pages of the regular forum topic list would look like if every one of these 'large number of cars' posts was given a daily or weekly bump?
Michael


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*

I vote to mention the problem in the FAQ (where V8 users will immediately find that GruvenParts carry the answer to this problem).


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## Jim_CT (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: (Zaphh)*

I also vote for FAQ placement. 
Jim


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PanEuropean* »_
Can you imagine what the first 5 pages of the regular forum topic list would look like if every one of these 'large number of cars' posts was given a daily or weekly bump?
Michael

Of course, and for most problems the TOC works fine. You find a problem on your car, you search the TOC for a solution. In this case, though, it's highly unlikely that the problem would be noticed, the only way you'd know to check the weak VW arms is if you read something here that prompted you to do so.


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## Jim_CT (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: (Jim_CT)*

With all due respect, it appears we have exhausted this subject. Perhaps it's time for the moderators to lock the thread and move it to the FAQs so it is always available for further reference.


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

*** GruvenParts.com Billet 4.2V8 Intake Manifold Links - Unbreakable !!*

We've now simplified the order selection process for these !

* Audi/VW 4.2V8 Intake Linkage Arms ! *

*GruvenParts.com 4.2L V8 Intake Manifold Linkage Arms Warranted for Life !*
Got a 4.2L V8 Audi or VW ? Then you had better check your intake manifold actuator arms (p/n 077198327A)! The OEM versions quickly break, leaving your intake manifold rod stuck, causing poor idle, drivability, loss of power, and poor fuel mileage. This is a very common problem on the 4.2L V8. 
Our intake manifold arms have an aerospace grade billet aluminum body with thread on carbon fiber composite ball end links. The composite end links are actually STRONGER than the aerospace grade aluminum body itself! 
*This is how we can warranty them for life!*
Dont go to the VW/Audi dealer and pay upwards of $400 for the new actuator kit when all you need are the arms (the actuators themselves rarely fail). And DONT pay that kind of money for another set of plastic arms that will break in quick order.
Go with GruvenParts.com and NEVER WORRY ABOUT THIS AGAIN !
Fits the following vehicles:
2004-2007 VW Phaeton V8
2003+ VW Touareg V8
2002-2004 Audi A6/Avant
1998-2004 Audi A6/S6 Quattro
2000+ Audi A8/S8 Quattro


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Much more in the works guys, stay tuned!
http://www.GruvenParts.com


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

All parts are in stock ready to ship








As always, call me if need be.
http://www.GruvenParts.com


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

http://www.GruvenParts.com


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## KCPhaetonTech (Aug 17, 2008)

*Re: (GruvenParts.com)*

PIMPING again.............


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: (KCPhaetonTech)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KCPhaetonTech* »_PIMPING again.............









I think "pimping" is a specific technical term, and refers to someone other than the vendor merely "promoting" their goods, by posting on the thread and bumping it to the top of the list......


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## KCPhaetonTech (Aug 17, 2008)

*Re: (invisiblewave)*

My apologies, I had assumed there was a classified section. http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif


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## Jim_CT (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: (KCPhaetonTech)*

C'mon guys. I know it was Groundhog Day, but ... 
If every supplier bumped their threads every few days, would that improve the content of this forum? 
No one disputes these parts are useful for folks that have broken ones. But not all V8s have this issue, and anyone that comes here can easily find the relevant thread(s).
Jim


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## CLMims (Jul 13, 2007)

*GRUVENPARTS - request*

Hey GruvenParts - why not take a stab at some interior trim pieces that some people have been asking about (these are sometimes broken or lost):
The volume/tuning/center control knobs on the infotainment unit - the Phaeton's are plastic, but on later models I think they had a knurled edge (similar to a bentley continental/flying spur, below)








The seat control knobs in a bentley are also "upgraded" from a Phaeton's plastic knobs (hard to see in the pic - sorry!)


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: GRUVENPARTS - request (CLMims)*

A replacement flashlight might be an easy one to do, too!


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

Guys, I appreciate the suggestions. 
In order to build the sample parts we need to start with detailed pics, then have the actual part in hand for measurement. We will return the sample part in like condition it was received, along with a free sample to try out. 
We would love to make interior bits, I think you would be very satisfied. As always, send email or call to discuss particular ideas in detail, we are always looking for new parts.
Sorry for the "bump" of this thread last week. We have started a new intake manifold link thread which we will gently remind owners of from time to time but certainly not everyday!


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## sachverhalte (Sep 16, 2007)

*Re: (GruvenParts.com)*

I just checked my actuator arms and the right side is broken. I ordered a set from GruvenParts. After replacing these parts, do I need a tune up or adjustment?
I have a zero deductable warranty, so I should probably have the dealer replace the parts, but they will just put back the same poor plastic design.
I just got my car back from the dealer. They changed the timing belt, replaced the ignition coils, and plugs, and did an 80k service. Shouldn't they have caught this problem?
Bob


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## Jxander (Aug 5, 2008)

*Re: (sachverhalte)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sachverhalte* »_I just checked my actuator arms and the right side is broken. I ordered a set from GruvenParts. After replacing these parts, do I need a tune up or adjustment?
I have a zero deductable warranty, so I should probably have the dealer replace the parts, but they will just put back the same poor plastic design.
I just got my car back from the dealer. They changed the timing belt, replaced the ignition coils, and plugs, and did an 80k service. Shouldn't they have caught this problem?
Bob

Since you have a zero deductibile warranty, I'd let them replace the actuator arms even though they will probably be required to use the VW plastic parts. That way you'll get a new diaphragm with the kit. The plastic will probably fail again but that will likely be many miles from now and a failure will never leave you stranded. At that point you may be out of warranty and can easily install your superior Gruven parts. 
In doing your service it would be easy to overlook the broken actuator arm although it does seem they would have to remove the upper plastic cover and be looking right at them. Also with the high failure rate on this part, a VW mechanic should be periodically examining these parts whenever they service a 4.2l V8.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: (Jxander)*

I agree with Bob. If the warranty covers it, I'd have the VW kit fitted with the new diaphragms and then put the Gruven parts on since they look so much nicer! I also agree that given the rate of failure, coupled with how simple it is to check, any VW tech worth his salt ought to be whipping off that cover during a service. Mine were also missed by the dealer, I didn't find them until I read about it here and checked myself.


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## sachverhalte (Sep 16, 2007)

So, the dealer replaced the diaphram and actuator arm on the driver side. They replaced it with an actuator arm that is significantly longer on the driver side than on the passenger side. Is this correct? Or, should they be the same size on both sides? I'm concerned, because I ordered the machined metal peices from Gruvenparts, which I planned to install at a leter date. They are the same size for both sides. The VW dealer insists that the longer arm belongs on the driver side. Who is right?

Thanks...Bob


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

It sounds as if they've installed a T-reg arm on one side, those are about twice the length of the Phaeton arms. The arms that came off mine were identical (once I fitted the halves back together). You can watch it actuating to see whether they work or not. Let the engine cool, the vacuum drops and the diaphragms go slack. In that state, the arm should pull the diaphragm "open". Have someone start the car while you watch. As soon as it starts, the vacuum sucks the diaphragms closed, pulling the arms with them.


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

Just checked mine today. Both arms are of the same length.

P.


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## sachverhalte (Sep 16, 2007)

Thanks. The dealer gave me the whole speech about the mechanic being Phaeton trained, and me not trusting the blogs....etc... I guess I will replace both factory plastic arms with the parts I ordered from gruvenparts to correct the problem.

Bob


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Have you watched the arms moving? I'm curious to know how it would even work with an arm that was too long.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

And as for the "Phaeton trained" technicians, has anyone come across one of these savants who've actually managed to spot a broken variable intake actuator arm yet??? As far as I recall, every single person who's posted has a) had their car regularly serviced by a "Phaeton trained" technician and b) has spotted the broken arms themselves.


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## itsallbeendonebefore (May 13, 2007)

So i have finally got around to doing this replacement and here is a step by step process.

Parts and Tools needed:
Replacement Actuator Arms (gruvenpartsdotcom)
Channel Lock Pliers

Get the 'Variable Intake Actuator Arm' from Gruvenparts. 









Pop the hood open by pulling this latch located by the drivers side foot well on the left.









Now go to the front of the car, and you will see this popped out from the grill.









Pull it, and push it upwards to open the hood 









This is what you V8 owners will see when you pop the hood open.









lift either end of the 'V8' (or w12) cover...no excess force needed..it will come right out.









Set it aside on ur fav location. from here you can already see the actuator arms









A better reference









Up close and personal









Uh oh!!! one's already cracked! good thing i randomly thought about replacing it









You can either get a set of grippy pliers or channel lock pliers. 
Grip the half-egg shaped plastic part of the top or bottom actuator arm and pull it out. It will SNAP out at the same time releasing a small bit of air (whoosh!) causing the vacuum bag (dunno what its called) to deflate. no need to panic...its just normal procedure. 









like this....









AHHHH crappp!!!  dropped the pliers from my ninja grip while i was about to get the other end of the arm. 
No worries... i have documented the next three pics for the retrieval of pliers incase this happens to you 

























just dig ur fingers in there and pull it out. 









Now you can see that the first arm has been removed. i used channel lock pliers to get it...it snaps rt out like the other one.









i did the same thing to the driver side actuator arm and as you can see, it snapped in half!!!

















...and the other half fell to the bottom.
for retrieval, please see images above. 









While trying to put the first actuator arm on, it fell into the engine area 









a bit of improvisation and 10 seconds later 









i used channel pliers to SNAP them back on. For non gym-goers like me, you might have to use a bit of muscle to snap them back on. 

























and Voila!









now you can confidently start the engine and this is what will happen









Before you close the hood, make sure to put the V8 (or w12) cover back on! :beer::beer:


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Looking at your crystal-clear picture of the "actuated" diaphragms, it looks to me that if the arm were a lot longer, the intake mechanism wouldn't move at all. Unless perhaps the newer version of the diaphragm is fitted further away?? Otherwise, to even fit the longer arm, the diaphragm would already need to be in the "actuated" position.


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## itsallbeendonebefore (May 13, 2007)

invisiblewave, 

Both the actuator arms are the same exact size so i believe a longer one will work but not as well as an original size actuator arm? thats my guess.

slajan


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## sachverhalte (Sep 16, 2007)

Gents,

Thanks for the detailed answers. In the end, the dealer agreed that they installed the incorrect acuator arm. They would have to order another kit to correct the mistake. Since I already purchased the gruven parts replacements, they simply agreed to install them for me. Seems to be working well now. I'm disappointed in principal, but choosing to move on.

Thanks...Bob


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Did you quote his words back to him while he was eating his slice of pie?? I still don't understand why a tech wouldn't immediately realise that the arm was too long and wouldn't work!


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## Appaz (Oct 30, 2009)

Sorry, might be a little dumb question as I am not in engines...

Can similar problem happen on V10 diesel?
Maybe I should check actuator arms?

If they are worn out, as far as I understand, gruvenparts arms do not fit V10, right?


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

_Thought I'd add this to the body of information already here on this subject, it's from the Audi forum and has a lot of good info in the event of the arms seizing:_ 

_Link to original post by silverd2:_ http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?p=24015360#post24015360 

An update on this subject, because the IMT on the 40V is a really cool and effective torque extending system....WHEN it's working. 
It's actually a very simple system mechanically, but has 2 problems (one minor and one medium), which CAN be solved: 

1. -- Breaking ball joint rods between vacuum pods and actuator levers on the manifold. 

2. -- Seizing pivots (plastic through metal) on the front of the manifold. NEVER heard of rear internal pivot seizing...different design that doesn't have to be as tight as front ones...looser fit with metal in metal design. 

First, the rods break because they are made of crap that ages badly (bad choice of material by Audi)...NOT directly because of seizing pivots. The seizing may be the last straw, but the fault is in the material. Those are easily replaced, if they are the only problem. 
In normal operation, a vacuum pod is ONLY strong enough to open a free moving actuator lever against it's spring tension. If the actuator lever pivot is seized, the vacuum pod will simply grunt a little and stay in place. The vacuum pod is NOT strong enough to rip apart quality material, including the actuator lever or it's pivot. I have seen cases of those breaking, which also has to be the result of aging crap material or even a "mechanic" who has tried to break loose the pivot with excess force...the pods are not THAT strong. 

Second, the only things that seize in these manifolds are the front pivots that the actuator levers are "plugged" onto. Unless your manifold is full of dead squirrels or molasses, there's really nothing internally to get stuck...and seafoam (or similar) should take care of that (don't know about squirrels,though). But I have NEVER heard of an internal part causing seizing in these manifolds. Internally, it's a very simple mechanism. 
If a pivot is broken off in the manifold, then manifold casing disassembly is probably required, which is VERY involved. 

http://forums.quattroworld.com/a8/msgs/181.phtml 

Seized and intact front pivots (the most common problem), however, ARE accessible and repairable, without manifold casing disassembly....Many people, including myself have done this successfully from the outside. 

http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=2787118 ...especially post # 11 

http://forums.quattroworld.com/a8/msgs/31301.phtml 

If you're not sure if yours is working, proper operation is easy to check visually: 

-- Motor shut off: Both pods inflated, both levers return to rest position by spring tension (quickly). 

-- Motor started and idling: Both vacuum pods collapsed, both levers pulled back fully away from rest positions (quickly) = Stage one. 

Note: If both of the above work, then any other problem is control (electronic, control valve, etc..) ...NOT a manifold mechanical problem. If they don't, check for free mechanical movement, before assuming a control problem. 

-- Motor running (and a helper): starting at about 3360 rpm and higher: Lower right pod inflates, lower left lever falls fully back to rest position by spring tension = Stage two. 

-- At about 5200 rpm to redline: Upper left pod inflates, upper right lever falls fully back to rest position by spring tension....Both pods inflated, both levers at rest position by spring tension = Stage three. 


Stuck IMT changeovers are such a common problem and there's so much misinformation about them floating around (some of it right here in this thread), I just wanted to help clear up some of the confusion and assure you that an average mechanic or advanced tinkerer can tackle this repair...esp if the actuator levers and pivots are NOT broken, just seized...the ball joint rods are easy to replace.


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## EurodriverMK3 (Apr 5, 2008)

Hey fellas, It might just be really late and slight confusion on this system so maybe if I describe my exact system issue then someone can tell me what avenue to try. 

My right arm is broken and the lever is completely turned clockwise with the pocket deflated. The left arm is intact but is also in the position that leaves the pocket deflated while the engine is off. I tried to manually by hand turn then levers and it seemed very very difficult but i wasn't sure since the spring is pretty thick. Nothing changes when I start the engine, both rubber pockets stay closed and when I am say on the interstate under WOT it seems sluggish. So much that my girlfriends 2011 I-5cyl 2.5 Golf is faster from a stop all the way to triple digits. It just doesn't seem right. (BTW we were only driving that fast due to the suspicion that i wasn't getting all 300+hp available) Do I have a seized rod in the left lever? Is there an easy way to check or should I just install the rods that I just ordered and see what happens? Is there any danger in breaking something by installing the titanium rods if the levers are seized and driving the car? Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks. Jordan.


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

Just ask your girlfriend to rev up the engine while you watch the actuators. 

When she presses ont the gas pedal, you should see them move. 

P.


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## EurodriverMK3 (Apr 5, 2008)

Zaphh said:


> Just ask your girlfriend to rev up the engine while you watch the actuators.
> 
> When she presses ont the gas pedal, you should see them move.
> 
> P.


 Will do. Ill return with results lol.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

From the reading I did at the time I changed the arms on my car, it sounds as if your arms are seized. When they're working correctly, with the engine off and cold the diaphragms should be "inflated" (they're pulled into that position by the springs), as soon as you start the engine the vacuum sucks them in and moves the arms, the vacuum overcoming the pressure of the springs. There's very detailed information on this on the Audi forum, including the procedure for fixing it yourself. The job looked doable to me, the tricky bit looked to be getting the rods to slot back into place inside the manifold. I also seem to remember that the arms were very difficult to move by hand, and I was surprised when I saw that the vacuum was able to overcome the springs, so you might want to also check that the rubber isn't leaking at all before you start pulling the rods out.


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## EurodriverMK3 (Apr 5, 2008)

invisiblewave said:


> From the reading I did at the time I changed the arms on my car, it sounds as if your arms are seized. When they're working correctly, with the engine off and cold the diaphragms should be "inflated" (they're pulled into that position by the springs), as soon as you start the engine the vacuum sucks them in and moves the arms, the vacuum overcoming the pressure of the springs. There's very detailed information on this on the Audi forum, including the procedure for fixing it yourself. The job looked doable to me, the tricky bit looked to be getting the rods to slot back into place inside the manifold. I also seem to remember that the arms were very difficult to move by hand, and I was surprised when I saw that the vacuum was able to overcome the springs, so you might want to also check that the rubber isn't leaking at all before you start pulling the rods out.



That is some great info. Thank you. I was hoping that it wasn't that but it really sounds as such. Ill clean the rubber really well and check for leaks somehow, maybe with soapy water- hopefully they are still good. I see that gruvenparts has in incredibly detailed DIY and with amazing pictures on the whole process and actually repairing the rods with a dremel making them move smoothly. Ill make sure I let everyone know of my findings as to help another owner if need be. Wish me luck.
Jordan


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

If you end up having to do the job, don't forget to report back, and post pictures! Also, I'd recommend making doubly or triply sure before you start taking things apart that they really are seized. There was a lot of talk in the Audi forum (and possibly here) that the arms must break for a reason, ie seizing, but it's pretty evident that's not the case because so many people have had broken arms and have solved it simply by replacing them. It's possible that corrosion build-up over time increases strain on the arms, but I think it's far more likely that the arms should never have been plastic in the first place, and become brittle with the heat over time (hence I replaced mine with the Gruven aluminium version).


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## EurodriverMK3 (Apr 5, 2008)

I will post my pictures eventually, but for now. I have a possible issue. The black and white valve in the vacuum lines, I had to remove in order for the diaphragms to work properly. anyone know what its there for and if the vw gods are going to strike me down for running it without it. i forget the name of the valve but its to the left of the picture. 

thanks for any info


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

I think it's the non-return valve, part of the 077 133 331E hose kit.

Possibly just a safety restraint to prevent a diaphragm split in an actuator dropping the vacuum in the line?

Chris


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## EurodriverMK3 (Apr 5, 2008)

well my system seemed to be incorrectly working, so i removed the pierburg valve and it looks like it is doing the right stuff. mainly, the arms go where they are supposed to be a lot quicker without the valve in place. i just re-connected the vacuum lines without the valve. 

Jordan


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## cata1569 (Jun 25, 2012)

I'm sorry but I'm not too good at mechanics. The parts circled in the picture are spoken of in this topic ?

cata


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Hi Cata:

I think that the parts in the photos you have provided are the same as the parts that we have been talking about in this discussion - but I am not certain that the parts in the photos that you have provided are from a Phaeton 4.2 V8 engine. 

Your photos appear to show parts from a different VW engine.

Michael


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## cata1569 (Jun 25, 2012)

No,they are from a v6 diesel. I changed one of the pieces $ 600. I was wondering if I could replace this parts with same from this topic.
cata


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## vwgeorge2 (Mar 24, 2008)

invisiblewave said:


> but I think it's far more likely that the arms should never have been plastic in the first place, and become brittle with the heat over time (hence I replaced mine with the Gruven aluminium version).



Has anyone tried the new Delrin arms?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUDI-VOLKSW...s=Make:Volkswagen&hash=item3f2d121a7c&vxp=mtr


Bill


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Those look as if they're plastic, same as the original arms that break.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

To be precise, they are polyoxymethylene. Delrin is DuPont's trade name for polyoxymethylene thermoplastic.

The stuff is pretty robust. It isn't bulletproof, but it is heat resistant. Its major weakness is degradation by mineral acids and chlorine - but I don't think that is a concern if this plastic is used at the front of the Phaeton engine.

For the life of me, I can't figure out why VW doesn't offer these little arms as a service part. I can appreciate that perhaps they did not foresee the arms would break, hence they didn't stock the arms "out of the gate", but now that it is well known that these parts can break, I think it would make sense for VW to provide them as a stand-alone replacement part.

Michael


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## saxtonram (May 30, 2013)

Perhaps a silly question, but is it worth while replacing these with the nice aluminum ones even if they are not broken and there is not apparent problem with the car. I am guessing not, but I like getting new shiny things for my Phaeton.

By the way, am going to be decedent and get a personalized plate: NIXFATE

Nic


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Not really, except that at some point they're probably going to break and you probably won't notice for some time. Those plastic ones look as if they'll do the job, but they definitely don't look as good as the Gruven ones!


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## Sharbotcreek (Aug 25, 2013)

I just got these ones

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Audi-S6-A8-V...ccessories&hash=item2c7b244eae&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1

They are metal and have a small locking pin too. Installed in 3 minutes and seem to be pretty good, they are chrome plated. He's in Canada so really easy for us Canadians.

Cheers
Rob


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## reaRview (Feb 5, 2013)

*Just replaced mine*

Hey Everyone,

Just got the Gruven parts in the mail. Replaced both arms took about 15 minutes total. 

For anyone that's had a quote for the dealer parts you know that this is by far the better option - both price-wise, and quality-wise. And if you're not sure whether you can do it yourself the step-by-step earlier in this thread really does show you everything you need to know. The working space is a little tight and you will need a couple of tools (I used needle-nose pliers, a flat-head screwdriver and a small C-clamp). Just keep in mind that the stock parts you're dealing with are plastic and they can break if your too ham-fisted. Other than that you shouldn't have too much trouble.

For anyone having a shop do the replacement - it took me 15 minutes, a shop will probably charge you an hour. Anything more than that is crossing the line.

Thank you Gruven


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