# Coilover install help



## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

So Ill be using this thread throughout the process to post issues and questions I come along...

Thanks to all. Idk what I would do without help from the forums:beer:


What length is a good starting point for the rear LCA? right now I have it measured up to the stock length, so I assume I would need to just take it in a little but how much as a good starting point?

I plan on going all the way down in the rear, but I still need to drive it to the alignment place, so a good starting point would help.


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## AudiMick (Sep 1, 2010)

VroomTT said:


> So Ill be using this thread throughout the process to post issues and questions I come along...
> 
> Thanks to all. Idk what I would do without help from the forums:beer:
> 
> ...


I put a small spirit level on the wheel, when I lowered mine. Made a 90 degree bracket. I dropped mine about 20mm at the rear and it move around 1/4 inch. Later I built a small electronic tilt sensor which was way more accurate.

You should be good if you are not driving too far. I drove mine about 200 miles to let them settle before adjusting them again.

If you are really going low you will need upper and lower adjustables, not possible to get it right otherwise.

The rears are easy, start at the right front it's the hardest one to remove the stock strut. That's not the one you want to be struggling with late in the day.:banghead:

If you can get that one out the rest is cake. Good luck.


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

Thanks for the advice:beer:

Already have both fronts in and ready to roll. I adjusted the height to about half to start.

I also pulled the control arms, but couldn't do the bushings, so Ill be taking those to get pressed tomorrow morning. I tried using an advance auto press, which would have prob worked, but with no air tools was way too hard.

Car is up on stands in the garage. Once the arms are back in place, then Ill do the rears. Might have to ball park it with the arms just a tad bit shorter than stock to lower it and try to not wear the tires too much. Ill def be keeping the spring perches in the rear, so not too low.

So it really took that long for your suspension to settle?


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## The_RoadWarrior (Nov 21, 2011)

A tad shorter on the rear adjustable links will help correct camber but does nothing for toe which is also affected by lowering and camber changes. I'd say an alignment is in order unless you have level surface and can do the "string method" to do fix toe.


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

Yes you need to drive it around for a bit for it to settle. And if you plan on adjusting the fronts more you should just do it from the start :beer:


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## AudiMick (Sep 1, 2010)

VroomTT said:


> So it really took that long for your suspension to settle?


Actually they dropped another 2 mm or so after that, if you have new bushings and bearings the fronts settle more than the rears.


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

Update:

Just dropped off the FCAs to have the bushings pulled and pressed. Picking them up at lunch.

opcorn: 

Okay, so my plan as of now is to set it pretty high, then wait for it to settle. Once I see its all settled, have the alignment done.

Still wondering about the broken ball joint pin You guys think I can drive it with only two in place?? 

My plan here is to take it to my mechanic who is doing my axles... have him also replace the ball joints.


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

Can't you get the ball joints out yourself? Personally I wouldn't drive with just 2 but I'm no engineer..


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

My understanding was that you needed to have a special tool to remove it? I requires a special allen on top and a wrench to remove right? Then it needs to be pressed in?

Im not really sure here... anyone?

Update:

Just got a call from the shop doing my bushings and they said they couldn't do it??? Ill have to go at 1 to find out whats up...:banghead:


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Audi has special tools for everything. Chances are there are ways around it.


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

VroomTT said:


> My understanding was that you needed to have a special tool to remove it? I requires a special allen on top and a wrench to remove right? Then it needs to be pressed in?
> 
> Im not really sure here... anyone?
> 
> ...


you can get the special tool at harborfreight for 10-15 dollars. plus a set of metric allen key for under 10. that's what I used and it worked well.

see my suspension build albums at link in sig block.

cheers.


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

IIRC I beat the **** out of it until it popped out.

Did the shop take out the metal collar from the oe bushings? Bushing won't fit without removing this first. Sometimes you don't realize it's still in there.


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

Update:

I went and spoke with the guy at the shop... he had no prob pulling them out, he also put in the split fronts no prob. He said the lip of the back one started to rip as he pressed it, so he stopped.

So we looked it over and decided he could shave a bit of the lip off and that would allow it to slip in. 

I asked and he did it without the sleeve and used plenty of lube. I told him to shave the lip as little as possible and make sure the good fat lip is on the bottom(since ive heard poly rears can pop out, and it looks like they always pop up). I wont be going lower than an inch anyway, so it should be a prob.

Hopefully it'll be done before 5pm today.


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

Update:

Picked them up and they are ready to go

He had to shave quite a bit off the lips to get them in. Ive heard of people doing this before, so I think it will be okay. Plus he also only shaved the smaller lip, which i asked him to insert from the bottom, so the fat lip would be on the bottom, where I understand it can pop out of...

The plan is to get the arms in tonight and prep the rear for business tomorrow night.

Almost there


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

Update:

Everything in the front is in place and ready to go Put it down on some low profile wood ramps I made. Hopefully its already settling in the meantime. 

The rears is now up with the wheels removed. Tackling the rear tonight.

I have MadMax LCA's, but I wont be doing those tonight. Just swapping the coils and dampers.

Any tips and advice on doing the 225 quattro rear? Those little bits of experienced knowledge go a long way:thumbup:

Thanks:beer:


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

it won't settle just by sitting there. You have to drive it so there's movement in the springs.

Rears are so easy. 

take wheel off
remove wheel arch cover
remove top and bottom bolts on strut (make sure when you put the bottom on in you put it in straight. They tend to go in crooked and strip threads)
spring basically falls out.

Replace parts - I would do sway bar end links now too - and drive away.


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

Thanks Neb:beer:

Do any of the lines need to be let loose or anything like that. I would hate to push down and snap a line:thumbdown:

It does look pretty straight forward, but so do most installs and they never are. 

Im doing it by myself...


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

what do you mean by lines? Brake lines? Nothing. When you're swapping in the MM control arms, you'll have to loosen off the headlight leveling sensor though and reattach. 

Honestly the rears take 20 mins a side. They're super easy.


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

Nice! 

I had seen in a write up to free up some lines, but if its not a prob then even better. 

I'll update later tonight on how it goes. Thanks:beer:


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

Does anyone know the size of the lower rear shock/trailing arm bolt? I figured it would have an 18, but that wont fit.

I tried my wrenches and the 20 is too small and the 22 is too big. Does that sound right???


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

VroomTT said:


> Does anyone know the size of the lower rear shock/trailing arm bolt? I figured it would have an 18, but that wont fit.
> 
> I tried my wrenches and the 20 is too small and the 22 is too big. Does that sound right???


20-22 doesn't sound right. I wonder if previous owner stripped out the threads (very easy to do) in the trailing arm and then replaced the oem bolt with a bigger one.

edit: just checked mine: 21MM.


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

Thanks TTC2k5:beer: I borrowed a buddy's set and got it done:thumbup: 

He only got off work at 10pm so I only started working on it at 11pm... took a solid 2 1/2 hours:facepalm: 

So here is the new issue... 

Once I bolted everything up and put it on the ground, I noticed the a$$ was up i the air pretty bad. I had set the rear perches to about half way. The front is a tad lower then I had wanted too(considering it still needs to settle). So i put up the rear again and remove the wheel. When I try to adjust the whole perch spins

Its pretty annoying considering they are brand new, and I lubed em. Def a downfall of the ST's. 

I bolted it all up again since I needed to drop the car off today to get the new axles in. So its at the shop now getting those and i told him to do the ball joints too(one of my ball joint bolts snapped during removal).

Anyone have some tips for getting the rear to loosen up. I know I could unbolt the shock and unload the suspension, but I really dont wanna have to do that every time to adjust height:thumbdown:

Any ideas on how to free it?

Also, anyone know of a good place to get an alignment and possibly corner balance?

Thanks


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

LOL @ putting perches halfway up. You raised it 

remove the top strut bolt and it'll drop enough to loosen everything (or it should). Mind you, I don't have perches in mine so it may be harder.


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

Thanks Neb, yea I def realized that I may have actually gone higher in the rear :facepalm: Def needs to come down an inch and a 1/2...

It's the rears that need adjusting... so what top strut bolt? I think I may need to use actual grease instead if the lube I used:thumbdown:

The fronts are pretty low at about half way too. So they may need to some up once the supsension settles, but the front adjustment is no problem(I think anyway).


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

Look at the strut. Follow it up to the top. That's the top one


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

No strut in the rear dude...:laugh:


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

VroomTT said:


> Also, anyone know of a good place to get an alignment and possibly corner balance?
> 
> Thanks


Hey Phil, check these guys out.. I'm surprised nobody has recommended them yet. They are supposed to be the only ones in the business that really are "the $hit". They are a little pricey, ($100 for front, $100 for rear iirc ). But from everyone ive talked to, says "Weber Wheel Alignment".
http://www.google.com/m/places?hl=e...+alignment&cid=6466129949324112860&source=mus


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

Thanks:beer:

Ill give them a call and see if they can corner balance too... 

Anyone on how to stop the REAR perch from spinning???


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## The_RoadWarrior (Nov 21, 2011)

VroomTT said:


> Thanks:beer:
> 
> Ill give them a call and see if they can corner balance too...
> 
> Anyone on how to stop the REAR perch from spinning???


Didn't they come with locks?


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## AudiMick (Sep 1, 2010)

I cut a big washer out of rubber and silicon glued it to the top of the perch where it meets the body. 

The rubber stopped it slipping as long as I lifted the car up.

All of these TT kits regardless of the brand have the same issue it seems, the range of adjustment is whacked out front to rear.

So half way on the front requires all the way down on the rear. Not logical.


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

Thanks Mick:beer:

Thats what i was starting to think too. Doesnt really make sense:screwy: At least im not trying to go super low. I may raise the front once it settles more. 

I'm thinking of using the stock rubber insert to do something similar, just have to pull them out all over again...:banghead: Also hoping it may help with making it a bit smoother. The new RCAs arent installed yet either, so that'll be when I tackle it.


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

VroomTT said:


> No strut in the rear dude...:laugh:


Mine have rear struts  (see long blue tube). Anyways, remove that bolt and the whole thing will drop :beer:


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

I usually refer to the strut as the the damper and spring seat in one unit... like the front.

The rear is a seperate shock/damper and spring. My badeace:

Im kinda just annoyed i have to pull out the wheel well again and loosen that top nut. I also found a 3 inch c-clamp i may try to use to hold it in place while adjusting.

Then, once the new LCAs go in, Ill pull everything out and get the oem rubber pad to fit with the perch. Hopefully that does the trick, otherwise Ill have the c-clamp...


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## Tempes_TT (Oct 24, 2010)

Neb said:


> Mine have rear struts  (see long blue tube).


I dont mean to be that guy to correct people, but _technically_ the rears are shocks on the quattro application. 

as seen here: 
Strut on the left - Shock on the right. 










Love you bro!


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

You would be correct.


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

Told ya...:laugh:


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## AudiMick (Sep 1, 2010)

VroomTT said:


> Told ya...:laugh:


Actually if we really want to be pedantic, you can't fit coil-overs to the rear of a TTQ. 

The coils are definitely not over anything!:what:


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

Agreed:thumbup: No coilovers in the rear, a separate spring and shock.

Update:

The axles and new ball joints are in and everything is bolted up. Just need to find some time this weekend to adjust the height all around and swap in the LCAs. The alignment on the wheel is a bit off, but the rear doesnt seem off at all(prob cuz the rear is so high). By the time its done, should be settled enough for the alignment.


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

AudiMick said:


> Actually if we really want to be pedantic, you can't fit coil-overs to the rear of a TTQ.
> 
> The coils are definitely not over anything!:what:





VroomTT said:


> Agreed:thumbup: No coilovers in the rear, a separate spring and shock.
> 
> Update:
> 
> The axles and new ball joints are in and everything is bolted up. Just need to find some time this weekend to adjust the height all around and swap in the LCAs. The alignment on the wheel is a bit off, but the rear doesnt seem off at all(prob cuz the rear is so high). By the time its done, should be settled enough for the alignment.


I believe the correct term for the rear is: coilnextto.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

TTC2k5 said:


> I believe the correct term for the rear is: coilnextto.


:laugh:


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## The_RoadWarrior (Nov 21, 2011)

AudiMick said:


> Actually if we really want to be pedantic, you can't fit coil-overs to the rear of a TTQ.
> 
> The coils are definitely not over anything!:what:


You want to bet you can?


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## Tempes_TT (Oct 24, 2010)

The_RoadWarrior said:


> You want to bet you can?


Dun dun dun!


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## The_RoadWarrior (Nov 21, 2011)

Tempes_TT said:


> Dun dun dun!


Stop it, you're going to make him doubt himself now! I want him to be confident about his statement !


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

I'm imagining a horrible setup like on b5's :facepalm:


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## The_RoadWarrior (Nov 21, 2011)

PLAYED TT said:


> I'm imagining a horrible setup like on b5's :facepalm:


Not at all, and why would a true coilover in the back be a horrible setup?


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Have you seen the rear of a b5 a4?


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Never mind. I thought it was a coil over in the rear but it's not. Work really took a beating on me today lol


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

Sup guys! 

So I've been in Rio for the last 3 weeks and haven't exactly had time to update 

Did everything in the garage... 









Pulled the old CA's 








And popped in new Poly bushings 









Heres a comparison on the fronts. I bought new bushings and bearings, so kept it all assembled. You can see that the oem is already much taller. 









This is about the half way point the front is set at currently. 









Just before leaving I managed to get everything bolted up.:thumbup: 

I also replaced the two front axles. 

This is how she sits now after a couple days of commuting to settle the suspension 

















I think the suspension is already fully settled. I put about 150 miles on it since the install. 

The stance is a bit staggered on the front, and Im thinking I'd prefer it to look flat. I'm just wondering if I should raise the front a bit, or lower the rear a bit(the rear has about 1cm left of thread). I'd like to raise front, but it seems like raising the front would pre-compress the springs more and make for a harsher ride??? Also, Id like to maintain optimum handling, and im not sure if its already too low in the front?? 

It already rides pretty nice, and i still need an alignment. 

What do you guys think?


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Slam it 
But seriously as long as the control arms are parallel or close to you'll be ok


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## VroomTT (Jan 17, 2011)

Considering the height of the front right now, i think ill be okay taking the rears all the way down on the perches. I think that will be the height Im going for.


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## lucpost (Dec 19, 2011)

i also just installed my STs and was just wondering if this gap is right for the struts...


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