# Forge spacer lift installation - how-to



## bbredstang (Apr 1, 2008)

I had a heck of a time finding comprehensive install tips. To that end, I figured I would put together a how-to based on my install experience with the hopes it would help others, and you could sidestep some of my mistakes! This was on a 2021.5 SEL-P so your car may deviate just a bit based on the year and trim. 

All torque specs I pulled from the official VW repair manual for the Atlas.

I certainly am not a mechanic however have done my fair share of DIY work on my cars since I was 16, and start to finish the job took me about 4 hours.

Here is the before picture.









Front
Make a cup of coffee (or grab a drink of choice) - I started at 8:15am so - coffee for me! 
Jack up each side, and place jackstands on the pinch welds
Remove both front tires
Remove sway bar link bolt on both sides








To gain access to the bolts on the top of the strut, you need to be able to lift the sheild. 
Remove clip from fender 
Remove weather seals
Pull up shield just enough on each side to access/remove the 3 strut bolts









At this point, the strut assembly will drop down








Slide block in on top of the strut assembly. There is plenty of room to do this, and align to the bolt holes as much as you can.








Place a jack under to make the strut with spacer on top just barely snug
Now you should be able to bolt by bolt, start re-threading your longer bolts from the top. I was able to do this without a helping and was holding/adjusting the strut with one hand, and threading the bolts with another. At this point just snug up the bolts, and wait to tighten.
Put the bolts back into the swayer connectors on each side. Again snug and wait to tighten
Torque bolts to spec
Torque down the 3 strut tower bolts on each side. 15 +90 degrees
Torque down the sway bar bolts - 40nm +45 degrees 

Re-install tires and remove your jack stands
I completed the front around 10am.

Now to the back
Jack up each side, and place jack stands on the pinch welds near the rear tires
Remove both rear tires
IF AN SEL WITH ADAPTIVE HEADLIGHTS - remove the headlight leveling sensor from the control arm. The bottom of the black arm pops off the ball on the control arm side very easily. I did not do this and broke my sensor when I lowered the control arm!








Remove plastic shield that wraps around the control arm. There are two screws from bottom of the control arm, and two plastic pins on the top.
Place a jack under the control arm
Remove the bolt connecting to the sway bar. 
Remove the bolt connecting to the shock
Remove the bolt connecting to the brake assembly. Be careful as the assembly will jump up when the bolt is fully removed.
Remove the clip at the bottom of the spring. When I did this on both sides they broke however you do not need to use them again after you install the spacers
Lower the control arm, and remove the spring
Place the Forge spacer under the rubber spacer at the bottom of the spring. There is a hole in the spacer that the rubber pin aligns into








Place the spring/spacer back into the control arm, and start raising the control arm with your floor jack
For each bolt you may need to adjust the placement/height of your jack under your control arm, to get the holes to line up.
First I aligned the sway bar bolt and tightened snug, but not torqued down
Next I aligned the shot bolt and tightened snug, but not torqued down
Last I aligned the brake assembly bolt and tighten snug, but not torqued down.

Torque all bolts to spec
Sway bar link - 20nm + 180 degrees
Shock to control arm - 70nm + 180 degrees
Brake to control arm - 70nm +180 degrees

Repeat on the other side
Reinstall tires, remove your jack stands, and stand back/admire your accomplishment!
I completed the job right around 12.

After a test drive on my setup I was just barely rubbing when breaking hard/turning sharply. I used a heat gun at 400 degrees on the areas it was rubbing, and massaged back the areas that were rubbing.
As soon as possible get an alignment done. My alignment was pretty bad when I took it in and I have seen others post that they had the same experience.
Here are the full specs of the setup for everything to fit:

20" powder coated Trenton wheels
275/55/20 BFG K02's
ECS Tuning flush kit
B2B Fender Blocks
After photos:









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## bboshart (Aug 6, 2012)

Awesome write-up! That's great to know you can put in the front spacer without having to remove the entire strut. 

I would add that the bolts that you tighten plus add a degree of turning are noted to be replaced after each use. Likely torque-to-yield (TTY) bolts. That being said, I've never had any problems relating to reusing bolts.


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## mdtony (Mar 3, 2008)

Awesome write up! Thank you


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