# A/C Delete on a Cabriolet - Remove AC compressor



## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

Having gone all summer and not lost the20 lbs. I swore I was gonna lose I decided to remove it from my car. 
So bye-bye A/C system!
First remove your alternator and lay it aside. If you didn't disconnect the positive terminal I'd suggest doing so. 

Now remove the AC hoses from your compressor. If your AC system is full of Freon this will vent it to the air and freeze everything around it. Freon shoudl be removed professionally. However anyone trying to remove their AC system probably has one that's not working and is empty anyway. Just pay attention to what you're doing!

One hose is a 19mm and the other is a 24 mm. Lay the hoses out of the way. Later you'll want to undo the other ends of them and remove them altogether.

You might want to remove the AC condensor ahead of the radiator. But it doesn't matter when you do.

Here's the nitty gritty... Remove the compressor. There are two bolts, usually 8mm allen bolts holding the back side of the compressor onto the bracket.

The front side of the compressor is held by a bolt or two. I've seen several combinations , just look and remove them. Unscrew the tensioner and move the compressor down so you can remove the V-belt from it. 
When it's all free pull out the compressor. You now should be looking at this...
(Image is missing, sorry)









Remove the bolts that hold the big bracket on. There are two bolts that go thru the water pump (13mm) and one long allen head (6mm) bolt at the top and may only be accessible by taking off the upper timing cover. 
Once the bracket is gone you'll need to put new bolts thru the water pump housing. The new ones are 8mm x 50mm or 55mm. Either will work. 








Now put the alternator back in by putting it in the space left by the upper end of the big bracket we've removed. 
This moves the alternator to the left a bit which will help our offset.








Here it is all put back together. Note the v-belt is not perfectly aligned but with the addition of a 16mm hole washer behind the pulley it's darn close. I've had it revved out to over 7000 with no issues. 








So say bye-bye!








And by the way, you don't even need to get a new fan belt , the old one is the perfect size!! 

And how does my power steering pump stay in place? Simple , the big bracket really isn't a hard mount point for the pump. If the other bolts are good then you don't need to do anything. Until you can see what it looks like without the bracket in place it's hard to imagine. CAUTION!! The big bracket stabilizes the power steering mount and it can crack later. Read the comments below for discussion of how to prevent this. For the record I never had this issue.

Eventually I will put a pipe between the pump mounts where the bracket used to be and tie it all together with a 5 " bolt. 

FWIW the pump is tighter now than it was!



_Modified by Moljinar at 10:17 PM 10-16-2006_


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## Conceps (Dec 5, 2005)

nice write up, what did you use for the spacer on the alternator pulley? 
Do you think this is the same for my 91 8v gti?
it looks pretty close.


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: (Conceps)*

I have no idea if it's the same. Give your engine a very close look and see what matches. As for the washer I simply got one that had a 16mm hole in it.


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: (Moljinar)*

Well, it's been over a week and it's obvious. Not only did I remove more than 22 lbs of weight I've also gained at least 10hp!!
I wouldn't have believed it but the car is so much more responsive with more power throughout the entire range. Conclusion... The AC compressor is a hige parasitic drag on the engine even when not running. The bearing on the pulley gets really tired and stiff when as old as these cars. I just replaced a compressor that seized the bearing on another car just last week. The pulley is rather heavy as well. 
Glad it's gone!


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## tarticar (Nov 23, 2005)

*Re: (Moljinar)*

i'm going to have to try that one, seems kinda easy. Though last time I tried this there wasn't enough room to get the allen in the hole.
What did you use to get to the compressor bolts?


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## JPX (Nov 6, 2005)

*Re: (Volks1470)*

Always interested to see how this delete is done. I am very much on the fence about this after the AC clutch bearing died on my Cabby. I am beginning to lean towards replacing the compressor and getting the whole mess running again.








That being said:

_Quote, originally posted by *Volks1470* »_i'm going to have to try that one, seems kinda easy. Though last time I tried this there wasn't enough room to get the allen in the hole.
What did you use to get to the compressor bolts?

You definitely should get hex head sockets for your ratchet. This will make life so much easier when dealing with some of the fasterners on these brackets.








And I needed some crazy combination of an extension, u-joint and a ratchet to get the adjusting bolt on the front of the AC compressor bracket - even after removing the power stering pump reservoir.


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## kamzcab86 (Feb 14, 2002)

*Re: (JPX)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JPX* »_Always interested to see how this delete is done. I am very much on the fence about this after the AC clutch bearing died on my Cabby. I am beginning to lean towards replacing the compressor and getting the whole mess running again.









Every time I work in the engine bay I think about getting rid of the A/C; the less crap in the way the better. But then, Summer rolls around and I'm then reminded of why I put up with the compressor, hoses and condenser.


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## vwkidd8v87 (Dec 24, 2008)

*Re: A/C Delete on a Cabriolet - Remove AC compressor (Moljinar)*

I have been looking for a bracket and will probably try this I've been wanting to get rid of the horsepower thief.


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## cabby85 (Feb 28, 2009)

*Re: A/C Delete on a Cabriolet - Remove AC compressor (vwkidd8v87)*

I did it today. It was very simple, just took along time.


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## 89GTiMk2 (Dec 4, 2008)

*Re: A/C Delete on a Cabriolet - Remove AC compressor (cabby85)*

i never really understood why a cabby had a/c in the first place....its got a convertible top for a reason ...definitely going to rip mine out today!


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## 89GTiMk2 (Dec 4, 2008)

*Re: A/C Delete on a Cabriolet - Remove AC compressor (89GTiMk2)*

ok so i started this today....i got the alternator and compressor out, not im working on taking out the big bracket but i cant get the top timing cover off....i have the bolt competely unscrewed...but the problem im having is getting the upper cover to detach from the lower cover...am i missing a screw or something? cause i cant seem to find anything. I pried out the cover to see inside to see if maybe i missed something in there, but it looks like the two covers are fused right together.


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: A/C Delete on a Cabriolet - Remove AC compressor (89GTiMk2)*

There is a Round headed Allen key bolt holding them together. 
Why are you removing the cover? 


_Modified by Moljinar at 12:55 PM 6-17-2009_


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## 89GTiMk2 (Dec 4, 2008)

*Re: A/C Delete on a Cabriolet - Remove AC compressor (Moljinar)*

the top cover has to come off in order to get to the bolt that holds the top of that big bracket on. BUT i figured out that im an idiot, there is a nut on the back of the lower cover inside of where that allen head bolt goes through that is holding the two covers together so i got it off finally.
The bracket has to come off so that i can bolt the alternator into that spot, It says it right in the directions at the top of the thread


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: A/C Delete on a Cabriolet - Remove AC compressor (89GTiMk2)*

Don't roll your eyes at me you young whipersnapper! I wrote that in there! Don't you think I'd remember it? Now where's my pudding.....


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## montmil (Jul 8, 2006)

*Re: A/C Delete on a Cabriolet - Remove AC compressor (Moljinar)*

I think he got you, Oran! Wipe your chin...








Monte


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## 89GTiMk2 (Dec 4, 2008)

*Re: A/C Delete on a Cabriolet - Remove AC compressor (Moljinar)*

haha dont worry i already feel like a big enough idiot, i spent over an hour trying to get the cover off only to find the hole in the cover specifically there too take out that bolt








But i got everything done in a few hours, plus i put on my raceland strut tower bar, it was like driving a totally different car. It was more responsive, a little bit quicker, and the strut tower bar made a crazy difference in the handeling!
the only thing i didnt have laying around was a washer big enough to fit over the alternator shaft behind the pulley, so i had to go get one of those...but for a total of 43 cents i have a much better car in my opinion!


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## Shawn M. (Oct 15, 2002)

perfect timing! I'll do this tomorrow.


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

*Re: (Shawn M.)*

Only one issue with this write up...."If you didn't disconnect the positive terminal I'd suggest doing so."
Must've been another senior moment, Oran? Always, always, always disconnect the negative battery terminal first! Positive first can send voltage spikes and fry things like the ignition control module. Also, you can short things and make big sparks if you slip and smack into anything grounded with the wrench.


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: (YJSAABMAN)*

Frankly I never disconnect the battery but then again I drive on bald tires and have unprotected sex...


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

*Re: (Moljinar)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Moljinar* »_Frankly I never disconnect the battery but then again I drive on bald tires and have unprotected sex...

You only live once, right?


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## 89GTiMk2 (Dec 4, 2008)

*Re: (Moljinar)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Moljinar* »_Frankly I never disconnect the battery but then again I drive on bald tires and have unprotected sex...

all while doing intravenous drugs and taking the lords name in vain haha


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## doonboggle (Jul 27, 2007)

*Re: A/C Delete on a Cabriolet - Remove AC compressor (Moljinar)*

One big problem ... no mention of diesel ip being in the way, and need for removal of it. 
See ... http://volkswagenownersclub.co...ted=1
If anyone here on Vortex can help me, please do so. As a novice concerning the removal, will need all the help I can muster up.
Thanks


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: A/C Delete on a Cabriolet - Remove AC compressor (doonboggle)*

No problem. Cabbys don't have diesel engines.


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## rentstdi (Mar 24, 2005)

*Re: A/C Delete on a Cabriolet - Remove AC compressor (Moljinar)*

Thank you for keeping the pictures still available, after 4 searches I finally found what I needed to see.


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

*Re: A/C Delete on a Cabriolet - Remove AC compressor (rentstdi)*

No problem. I keep a server alive for just that purpose. 

EDIT: WOW, looking back on this thread I find it's crazy that all my efforts to keep the images alive died when the Vortex removed all the image links while I was away. Now I have to find those old images again and put them on my new server.


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## felixthecat (Nov 5, 2002)

*Re: A/C Delete on a Cabriolet - Remove AC compressor (Moljinar)*

Hey nice write up, I'm trying to do the same thing, just have a few q's. I'm pretty much a noob to mk1s so hopefully this isn't completely amateur on my part. It looks like the fan belt that used to drive the compressor is the one you're using to drive the alternator and you just ditched the one that was on the car to drive the alternator. Am I seeing that correct?
My second question is how do I decrease the tension on the A/C belt to take it off? It looks like there used to be one of those geared bolts like is used to tension the alternator belt down on the bracket for the compressor, but that bolt is no longer there? How do I remove the tension on that belt?










_Modified by felixthecat at 8:28 PM 4-5-2010_


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## briano1234 (Feb 20, 2004)

*Re: A/C Delete on a Cabriolet - Remove AC compressor (felixthecat)*

Yes he got rid of the alt belt.
The tension on the a/c is controlled by the 2 bolts next to the radiator and the rear 2 mounting bolts that are 6mm Allens. Loosen all of them and there is no issue getting the belt off.


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## invintive (Jun 4, 2008)

Actually, if you have new belts from Autozone they don't fit right. The only way to get the A/C compressor belt on or off is to zip off the water pump pulley bolts with an impact wrench, pop off the pulley (or put it on depending on what your doing), and then there is enough slack to remove the belt from the compressor...
Don't know why my belt is like that, but it is... Very annoying!!! That's is why I'm ditching the compressor tomorrow... Besides the obvious [performance] reasons.
On a side note, have any of you who actually did this mod noticed any premature water pump/alternator failure? Just curious.
Also, how do you determine if your belts have the right tension? Won't unequal tension between the two belts cause premature water pump failure? Sorry, but I've gone through 4 water pumps. Maybe my new german made one will last a little longer than the Duralast s***.


_Modified by invintive at 8:33 PM 4-5-2010_


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## invintive (Jun 4, 2008)

Anyways, this is a great mod! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
I just finished mine in like 30 minutes including a trip to the hardware store... Super easy to do, and gonna be much easier if I ever need to change my water pump. 
Thanks a BUNCH!!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## invintive (Jun 4, 2008)

Snapped some pics...


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## jmkyler3 (Jun 5, 2010)

I did this today, took about three hours. Why so long, the Allen bolt under the timing chain cover was stripped out. Heh, the head of the bolt and not the threads. Yup, with a little help from heat and vise grips it was off soon enough. 

I do have an issue with the 8x50mm bolts that I will chase down tomorrow. I got the wrong thread type, although if I would of known while on my shopping trip.

The drive was a pleasure and worth the time and effort. And I will say a cheap performance boost...:laugh:


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## briano1234 (Feb 20, 2004)

Ya know I have been looking at this mod for a while and I have to ask this.

The alignment of the Alt pulley is off, and I think that you can get it closer to running true with a couple of additional washers.

The passenger side of the alternator mount is actually a bushing that Centers the alternator to the mount. As you tighten the bolt this moves that bushing into the alternator and forces the alternator to the rear of the mount.

Now this bushing causes the Alternator to Square itself to the frame so that is can run true but it isn't a hard connection it moves, so why not allow the alternator to not move back?

my thunking has come up with pushing that bushing all the way flush to the inside of the mount.

On the back side (drivers side) of the Alternator mount Glue about 2 good washers in place. May use more depends on the amount of gap you get. What will happen is that when you place the alternator in position and stab the bolt, the alternator can't move to the back of the bracket by the pressing of that bushing running home. The Alternator will still center, but can't move back. Thereby effectively moving the pulley more to the passenger side.


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## foogie (Sep 5, 2010)

Thanks a lot for this!! I've been thinking of ways to do this but just couldn't think of how. I just started working on this about an hour ago and everything was going good till a piece on the alternator broke (Where the adjustment screw screws into) So i'm going to try and get a new alternator and slap a washer behind the pulley and see how it all works out!


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## Donka (May 4, 2010)

I have done this as well, and all is good. So far at speeds of 80+ and no signs of any issues at all with the belt.


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## bretthbmx (Jun 20, 2007)

I think I'm going to do this tomorrow since my compressor is shot anyway. Then throw her back on next year maybe when I get a compressor.


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## foogie (Sep 5, 2010)

foogie said:


> Thanks a lot for this!! I've been thinking of ways to do this but just couldn't think of how. I just started working on this about an hour ago and everything was going good till a piece on the alternator broke (Where the adjustment screw screws into) So i'm going to try and get a new alternator and slap a washer behind the pulley and see how it all works out!


Well i just rigged up my alternator to get it to work and got the washer on and got everything put back together and it's good to go! Went for a nice drive and didn't have a problem and you can really tell the difference in the power throughout all the ranges! Thanks!


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## nwarner882 (Dec 2, 2009)

so all the wires running to the compressor can be ripped out as well ?


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## Donka (May 4, 2010)

I just unplugged it. Placed a cable tie to secure the connector. Removed all the hoses. Just to the firewall.


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## nwarner882 (Dec 2, 2009)

what do those hoses connect to behind the firewall?


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## CajunSpike (Mar 11, 2009)

*hoses*

They connect to the a/c coils under the dashboard. You -might- be able to disconnect the hoses from under the passenger side foot area.


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## nwarner882 (Dec 2, 2009)

prolly not even worth it you think? my main concern is just getting the condenser compressor and hoes out of there.


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## CajunSpike (Mar 11, 2009)

If you totally remove them, then you have two holes in the firewall that have to be filled/covered...soo...


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## nwarner882 (Dec 2, 2009)

I did this a few days ago and everything went great! So easy to do.


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## samizzy (Apr 27, 2010)

*AC lines*

Thank you for the pictures and post for removing the AC compressor. Now what do I do with the lines that I un screwed from the compressor. I see one goes to the radiator. If i disconnect that, do I have to plug the radiator hole? And what do I plug it with. The second one goes through the firewall. What on earth do I do with that. Where does it get unscrewed. Do I have to remove the dash??? Is that it after those 2 are removed.


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## samizzy (Apr 27, 2010)

*help with bracket*

I took the large bracket off holding the compressor. What bracket did you put back in place to mount the altenator on. Do I need a special bracket for that?

thank you

Paul


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

Read the start of the thread and it explains it all.


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## MyVWeatsYourHonda (Apr 12, 2007)

what iv been searching for. thank god. where did u get the big washer at?


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## MyVWeatsYourHonda (Apr 12, 2007)

does the original belt work also?


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## jmkyler3 (Jun 5, 2010)

MyVWeatsYourHonda said:


> does the original belt work also?


Yes the original belt will work, no need to buy one unless of course it actually needs one. You will lose a belt in the process


As far as the hardware needed, I got all I needed at lowes. Make sure to match up the threading on the replacement bolts. Parts were less than $4...


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## MyVWeatsYourHonda (Apr 12, 2007)

about how thick is the washer


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## snowyroads (Aug 23, 2010)

I did this swap and had to settle with just bolting the alt right back up. I didn't add any washers to the alt cause i couldn't get that damned pulley off. So now the belt whines when i drive. But the belt isn't showing any major signs of wear as of yet. I bought a new pulley from Toywagen.com but still have yet to install it.


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## MyVWeatsYourHonda (Apr 12, 2007)

they have one made for the delete?


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## samizzy (Apr 27, 2010)

*no idol after AC mod.*

I just finsihed doing the AC mod exactly as stated on the thread. Everything turned out perfect. 
Now the problem that just came up. The engine will not idol. It ran perfect prior to the mod. I looked for vacum lines that may have come off. Did not see any. Is there any way for me to find out what's going on. 
thank you


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## samizzy (Apr 27, 2010)

Hi,

I just finsihed this mod last night. Started up the car. Ran fine for about 2 min. Then all of a sudden the engine will not idle. I looked around closely and did not see any obvious disconnects. I sprayed some starting fluid around to look for leeks, did not see anything obvious. 
Note. when running above idle, runs great.. Also when I removed the AC bracket, I did a minor engine washing. I thought I was careful not to saturate any electrical stuff.
Is there somthing that could have caused this. Prior to the AC mod, idle was perfect.


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## briano1234 (Feb 20, 2004)

Sounds as if you got a connector wet, and or a vacuum leak.


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## MissHood (May 9, 2004)

CajunSpike said:


> If you totally remove them, then you have two holes in the firewall that have to be filled/covered...soo...


 Is there a company that makes some flat rubber plugs that may fit in the holes? That was what I was going to do just so my floor doesnt get moist. :thumbup:


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

Go to the hardware store and buy some snap in chrome caps. They'll have a size that's a bit small but run abead of silicone seal around the edge and they'll work fine.


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## bugflucker (May 11, 2010)

first this is gangster and second try this on a diesel




> Frankly I never disconnect the battery but then again I drive on bald tires and have unprotected sex...


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

Mentioned it elsewhere, but will in here, too. Yup, works like a champ! Did this to a buddy's last week. Even had some shock bushing sleeves around to put in place of the old bracket. :thumbup:


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## wolfjetta3061 (Jun 6, 2007)

Here are 2 alternators... http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Jetta/EngineElectrical/6/1 one is for AC equipped cars, the other for cars without AC. 
I'm guessing the alternator for cars without AC has a pully spacer that compensates for the need for increased offset, just as the washer used in the OP's writeup does. Can anybody confirm this? I would guess the are fundamentally the same minus the pulley spacer.
:beer:


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

bugflucker said:


> first this is gangster and second try this on a diesel


Not a whole lot of diesel cabbys around...


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## bugflucker (May 11, 2010)

haha no ****


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## Booha1 (Apr 6, 2007)

Moljinar said:


> Not a whole lot of diesel cabbys around...


True.

So far, we got the ac delete done, but also deleted the power steering too.We ended up getting a new alternator (since the old one was semi dead anyway) for the diesel rabbit engine we are installing. Since we also got rid of the power steeering, we thought we were going to need a different alt. bracket, which we got. Unfortunately, we are having a bit of trouble figuring out how the damn thing installs. :banghead:

Of course, then we lucked into an Ecodiesel, and stopped rebuilding the na diesel. :laugh:


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## Subliminal (Nov 30, 2005)

wolfjetta3061 said:


> Here are 2 alternators... http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Jetta/EngineElectrical/6/1 one is for AC equipped cars, the other for cars without AC.
> I'm guessing the alternator for cars without AC has a pully spacer that compensates for the need for increased offset, just as the washer used in the OP's writeup does. Can anybody confirm this? I would guess the are fundamentally the same minus the pulley spacer.
> :beer:


This is a good question. I think that the two different pullies have different sized belts (width). I'm not sure which one would be best. One might be in the right spot, but have a wider channel, and then vice versa. 

I'm just going to get an alt from the parts store and use my pulley and space it a bit. It's pretty darn close with the bracket off.

Also, as an aside, most parts stores sell the alt. with no pulley.


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## Subliminal (Nov 30, 2005)

Subliminal said:


> This is a good question. I think that the two different pullies have different sized belts (width). I'm not sure which one would be best. One might be in the right spot, but have a wider channel, and then vice versa.
> 
> I'm just going to get an alt from the parts store and use my pulley and space it a bit. It's pretty darn close with the bracket off.
> 
> Also, as an aside, most parts stores sell the alt. with no pulley.


Actually, it looks like there are two alternators because the cars with AC use a 90 AMP alt., and the cars without use a 65.


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## SB_GLI (Oct 17, 2005)

I just used this DIY while I replaced my water pump. My AC has not worked since I bought the car, and I figured I might as well drop some of the weight and make stuff more accessible by getting rid of that stupid compressor. 

Really glad I got that crap out of there. The bearing was a little tired and the pulley was pretty loud when I spun it by hand. Now the whole v-belt area is much more quiet and the car seems to have a little more get up and go to her.

Thanks for posting this 5 years ago and keeping all the pics up. I had to refer back to the pics of the alternator a few times to make sure I stacked all the parts back on in the right order .

eace:


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

SB_GLI said:


> I just used this DIY while I replaced my water pump. My AC has not worked since I bought the car, and I figured I might as well drop some of the weight and make stuff more accessible by getting rid of that stupid compressor.
> 
> Really glad I got that crap out of there. The bearing was a little tired and the pulley was pretty loud when I spun it by hand. Now the whole v-belt area is much more quiet and the car seems to have a little more get up and go to her.
> 
> ...


Exactly why I did it on my buddy's car. He brought it to me to replace the noisy P/S pump that wasn't noisy, it was the bearings in the A/C clutch dying. Did this, saved him headaches, and quieted everything down, which was the #1 goal!


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## 85vwcabby (Mar 28, 2011)

wolfjetta3061 said:


> Here are 2 alternators... http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Jetta/EngineElectrical/6/1 one is for AC equipped cars, the other for cars without AC.
> I'm guessing the alternator for cars without AC has a pully spacer that compensates for the need for increased offset, just as the washer used in the OP's writeup does. Can anybody confirm this? I would guess the are fundamentally the same minus the pulley spacer.
> :beer:


I believe it has the proper pulley and a smaller fan... on my cabby, I tried to not use the A/C bracket, but when I mocked up the alternator, the fan scrubbed against the engine block. I might've done something wrong though. :banghead: Can't remember how I was mocking it up, it's possible the alternator was too far to the passenger side... causing the fan to rub... anyone have any suggestions? I'd like to drop that 5 pounds.


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## SenorBrandon (Jan 5, 2007)

Could someone do me a favor and take a close up of where exactly they placed the washer. Its hard to tell on my phone and my laptop screen wont be in for a few weeks. 

It looks as if you removed the large nut, removed the pulley, placed the washer on and then put the pulley back on top of the washer and tightened it down. Is this correct? 

Once again thanks for this write up and everyones help in here.


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## dankehoe1 (Jan 24, 2011)

89GTiMk2 said:


> _Quote, originally posted by *Moljinar* »_Frankly I never disconnect the battery but then again I drive on bald tires and have unprotected sex...
> 
> all while doing intravenous drugs and taking the lords name in vain haha


I ripped the tag right off of a mattress once. Just clean ripped it right the [email protected]#K off. That's right. What's up??


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## dankehoe1 (Jan 24, 2011)

Just chiming in; I did this in about an hour on my 89 Golf GL 8v. Easy as falling off a roof and definitely gave a HP boost. Now, after reading some other posters post, Ima go grab a strut bar.


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## 90Kabby (Feb 2, 2005)

*radiator plug?*

what did you use to plug the radiator, where the compressor line connects? i think i saw the question on the thread but didn't see the answer. and did you remove the ugly ball thingy hanging on the hood? how about the solid metal line that goes thu the firewall on the right in your picture? stay or go?

cant wait to do this project, just want to make sure i got it all in my head before i rip into it.

thanks for all the info everyone! fantastic write up!!


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## briano1234 (Feb 20, 2004)

90Kabby said:


> what did you use to plug the radiator, where the compressor line connects? i think i saw the question on the thread but didn't see the answer. and did you remove the ugly ball thingy hanging on the hood? how about the solid metal line that goes thu the firewall on the right in your picture? stay or go?
> 
> cant wait to do this project, just want to make sure i got it all in my head before i rip into it.
> 
> thanks for all the info everyone! fantastic write up!!


The compressor doesn't connect to the Radiator...... Two Separate Systems.

The compressor connects to the condenser, and that you can loosen and move the radiator to the rear of the car, and disconnect the condenser and remove it.

There are 2 hoses on the condenser, one at the top passenger side and one at the bottom, and a 19mm and a 17mm are the sizes it tales to disconnect the hoses.


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## iamdagerman (Feb 19, 2006)

I took all the pulley ect off a fox


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## PaavWagen (Oct 2, 2009)

Just got ride of this useless commodity and I must say, you do notice an increase in power... nice thread, props to you man!
:thumbup: :thumbup:


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## Loccusstgti (May 12, 2009)

After doing this did anyone have to adjust the idle? I noticed mine is a bit higher now.


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## 90Kabby (Feb 2, 2005)

did this delete a week or so ago... much more responsive!

thanks briano for the help, you the shiz nit :thumbup:


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## PaavWagen (Oct 2, 2009)

Just started this roughly an hour ago (2AM) and got all the way to the last bolt on the removal portion (the bolt on the inside of the belt cover) to find it STRIPPED AS A M****R F****R!  Definitely not going to get that out until the morning. But hey, great right up man, you got this down to a T. :beer::beer: Haven't run into a single snag except that damned bolt.


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## 90Kabby (Feb 2, 2005)

PaavWagen said:


> Just started this roughly an hour ago (2AM) and got all the way to the last bolt on the removal portion (the bolt on the inside of the belt cover) to find it STRIPPED AS A M****R F****R!  Definitely not going to get that out until the morning. But hey, great right up man, you got this down to a T. :beer::beer: Haven't run into a single snag except that damned bolt.


are you speaking of the 6mm bolt? i found mine to be a little stripped as well :banghead: before i broke down and smashed things  i tried to tap my 6mm socket into the bolt head...it sank in and i was able to get it out. i then used the long 6mm bolt from the a/c compressor to replace it.


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## czastrow (Feb 20, 2011)

heres a noob question..... where are the tensioners so I can put the belts back on??? I have the alternator in its new home but am struggling putting the belt on... other than that, I think all I have to do now is screw a few things in... is there another bolt that holds it in place or is it just the one up top where it now sits??? and how do I get the pully off to put the washer in?


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## DanGreco (Mar 23, 2006)

PaavWagen said:


> Just started this roughly an hour ago (2AM) and got all the way to the last bolt on the removal portion (the bolt on the inside of the belt cover) to find it STRIPPED AS A M****R F****R!  Definitely not going to get that out until the morning. But hey, great right up man, you got this down to a T. :beer::beer: Haven't run into a single snag except that damned bolt.












I had to cut the bolt in half with a dremel and little at a time, then I got a channel lock and turned as hard as I could and it broke free. It took me 2 days of trying different ways but I finally got it. Good luck :thumbup:


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## Romeo Chi (Jun 23, 2005)

:wave: Anybody that is doing the delete on their AC, if you want to get rid of your hose that goes by the strut tower (lo side hose I believe) send me a PM. I would be happy to take it off your hands.

I need to get the AC running for the hot Florida weather.


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## mk3junk (Oct 19, 2009)

:thumbup::thumbup: big thumbs up for this. my ac stopped working before i bought the car. Doing this tomorrow. 

anyone know an estimated power increase that is gives?


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## G-Wiz (Oct 8, 2011)

*non ac alternator*

I have an alternator for the non ac version with the extended pulley already installed. Will I still need to shim the pulley or did you just have to do that to use the existing pulley?


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## briano1234 (Feb 20, 2004)

You probably won't need to shim it, but you really won't know until it is mounted and running...


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## jgold723 (Jul 23, 2010)

briano1234 said:


> Ya know I have been looking at this mod for a while and I have to ask this.
> 
> The alignment of the Alt pulley is off, and I think that you can get it closer to running true with a couple of additional washers.
> 
> ...


How do you move that bushing? I'm trying this mod and I'm finding that slot just a bit too snug to get the alternator back in. I tried tapping it, but it didn't move.


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## briano1234 (Feb 20, 2004)

That is a pressed Bushing., to move it back to release the alternator, you have to smack the back side of the Alternator at the pivot point.

As you can see there is a good 1/4 inch or so you can gain by shimming the back side of the alternator and only allowing the bushing to come out a wee bit.










Once the Alternator is out of the bracket, spray the bushing with PB-Blaster.
Rig up a press, that is use a bolt and a couple of washers with a nut to push the bushing all the way in to the bracket.


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## jgold723 (Jul 23, 2010)

*Great mod!*

Thank you very much for posting this! I'm just starting out on my Cabby adventure, and this was a great way to break in.

I did have two issues that I wonder if anyone else has encountered and/or dealt with:

1) I discovered that I could not get the timing belt cover on after I had assembled and adjusted the alternator -- the belt was in the way. So I moved the alternator out of the way, put the timing belt cover back on and then installed/adjusted the alternator. But, because the timing belt cover is back on, I can't tighten the 6mm hex bolt that holds the assembly to the engine bracket. The 13mm nut seems to hold it securely and I've taken it for a short drive, but I'm curious if others have this issue;

2) I also found that the geometry caused by the new mounting point for the alternator causes my alternator fan to scrape very slightly against the adjusting bracket. Makes a little bit of noise, but doesn't seem to cause any other harm. I suspect this will take care of itself in time, as the fan blades wear down (or carve a little groove in the arm). Can I get a fan with a slightly smaller radius?

Otherwise, I'm happy to report that the car does feel like it's got more zip. Now I just need to figure out how to remove in the condenser in the front.


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## jgold723 (Jul 23, 2010)

Thanks Briano! I like the press idea -- I was pondering how to make that work. In the end the PB blaster and some gentle tapping gave me enough clearance to get the alt back in. Next time I'll try the press idea.


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## hyperlightboards48 (Nov 30, 2010)

I got a couple of questions 

Can or should i remove the vacuum reservior now that i have removed my AC? 
If so do i just cap off the vac line at my finger or at the green arrow? 









Or am i better off just leaving the vacuum stuff intact 

Thanks 
Tanner


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## CajunSpike (Mar 11, 2009)

Even with the a/c removed, if you kill that vacuum, the vents for heating probably won't work properly..if they do work at all anyway.


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## hyperlightboards48 (Nov 30, 2010)

Alright good to know. The ball thing is staying... I spent a decent amount of time cleaning it anyways :laugh: 

Thanks man!


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## czastrow (Feb 20, 2011)

is the process the same for my 1.7? It's a bit different from my 92


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

czastrow said:


> is the process the same for my 1.7? It's a bit different from my 92


Yup, IIRC it is. It's been about 5 years since I did my '82, and the 1.7L has been out of the car for over 3, now.


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## hyperlightboards48 (Nov 30, 2010)

Did i get everything?


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

hyperlightboards48 said:


> Did i get everything?


Except what's inside the heater box!


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## B5Speedo (May 2, 2001)

The center vents in my car never have air coming through them. Will the A/C delecte fix this problem or is there something else I should be looking at?


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## Dragonwing (Dec 1, 2011)

You should be looking for one or more vacuum leaks in the system. Buy some "smoke in a can" at a heating/air conditioning supply house, and its use will make all the leaks quite apparent.

DW


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## kamzcab86 (Feb 14, 2002)

B5Speedo said:


> The center vents in my car never have air coming through them. Will the A/C delecte fix this problem or is there something else I should be looking at?


A/C delete will not fix the issue: http://www.cabby-info.com/hvac.htm#No_Air


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

kamzcab86 said:


> A/C delete will not fix the issue: http://www.cabby-info.com/hvac.htm#No_Air


Here's the internal heater box mod to finish off the conversion and get heat from all the dash vents: http://www.cabby-info.com/Files/AddingHeatToSideVents.pdf


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## turboquattro (Mar 3, 2002)

*Looking for parts to ADD A/C to my diesel Caddy*

I'd like to do the opposite as y'all are doing in this thread, and ADD air conditioning to my non-A/C '81 Caddy diesel. I'm in AZ and I'd rather have air conditioning. 

If you have any parts I can use for that from your A/C delete, please PM me.


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## rabbitnothopper (Oct 19, 2009)

turboquattro said:


> I'd like to do the opposite as y'all are doing in this thread, and ADD air conditioning to my non-A/C '81 Caddy diesel. I'm in AZ and I'd rather have air conditioning.
> 
> If you have any parts I can use for that from your A/C delete, please PM me.


 ...lol... 

where was the "i wanna add ac" fad when i had a few parts to sell....le sigh 



hey great write up on your removal, thanks for your efforts in the technical DIY steps 


TRUTH the vacuum hose to the a/c blower only controls the valves for defrost, recirculation, and center vent 
you dont technically need any of them as the default position is to blow air up through the defrost vents


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## briano1234 (Feb 20, 2004)

rabbitnothopper;77038289
[b said:


> TRUTH the vacuum hose to the a/c blower only controls the valves for defrost, recirculation, and center vent you dont technically need any of them as the default position is to blow air up through the defrost vents[/b]


 Well are you forgetting the side vents, as if you have the defrosters on cold a/c will blow out those too.


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## Spokane Pepe (Nov 18, 2011)

I have a complete AC unit ill sell. I have pulled out all the AC parts and about to do this mod so my loss is your gain. :thumbup:


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

turboquattro said:


> I'd like to do the opposite as y'all are doing in this thread, and ADD air conditioning to my non-A/C '81 Caddy diesel. I'm in AZ and I'd rather have air conditioning.
> 
> If you have any parts I can use for that from your A/C delete, please PM me.


Wow, I'm not sure how different any of the brackets may be for the diesel engine. I know the compressors changed along the years, though. Still have the correct mini York compressor from my '82. Clutch engages and the compressor turns. LMK.


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## MissHood (May 9, 2004)

I decided to try this out but I have A Few questions, you mentioned that the original belt is the correct size but I have everything back in place and the belt still seems loose. Anyone use a smaller belt? 

Also for the washer, I took apart a 2nd alternator and used the bigger washer off of that one. I'm hoping that works out well, and it made the offset look pretty close.


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## EURO RUN (Dec 19, 2004)

i just picked up a nice 84 rabbit. po must have tried an no ac swap and failed lol. i got the car with the compressor missing and alt off with most bolts missing. now i have purchased bracket set up for the correct swap for no ac, 
i cannot get off the shelf / tray/ bracket that help the compressor. 
see pic 
looking to see if anyopne know share some info on it removal 
just noticed today that the bracket hasd already been cut. po must of not known how to remove either../lol


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## DEGS (Nov 13, 2010)

This is my setup using this thread as my only guideline. You still need the tensioner (the geared bolt and track.) 

The extra washer from another alternator... 
 

EURO RUN - pull all of that crap off first. It looks like someone tried to fab up a mount and failed. You need to pull off your upper timing belt cover at least. may need to hit up the junkyard.


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## EURO RUN (Dec 19, 2004)

DEGS, 
I have the the geared bolt and track also the lower alt mount bolt and bracket. 

are you saying that halfway cut shelf is not oem? im looking for remaval info on that part. 

the car came with a new alt. my new bolt and bracket does not look like it will fit. is there a different size alt for ac and non ac set ups? 
i will post a pic of what i have as soon as i can.


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## MissHood (May 9, 2004)

DEGS said:


> This is my setup using this thread as my only guideline. You still need the tensioner (the geared bolt and track.)
> 
> ]\.


 oh my Alt. bracket looks compleatly different(my bracket is an orginal non A/c bracket from early rabbits,), but I doubt thats the problem. I'll keep tinkering with it, im thinking I just don't have it adjested right. :thumbup: thanks for that pics DEgs


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## MissHood (May 9, 2004)

MissHood said:


> oh my Alt. bracket looks compleatly different(my bracket is an original non A/c bracket from early rabbits,), but I doubt thats the problem. I'll keep tinkering with it, I'm thinking I just don't have it adjusted right. :thumbup: thanks for that pics DEgs


 So I found out that An original non-AC alt bracket doesn't work very well, I ended up finding A similar bracket as you degs but a bit different. I got everything setup at the moment, but the alt belt/pulley IDK is still kinda loud. any advice on that? I did notice that my cam gear pulley seem to not spin smoothly, nor straight(wobbles very slightly). 

Boys, If I can do it(and I'm a women, obviously) you can too..:thumbup:


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## DEGS (Nov 13, 2010)

EURO RUN said:


> DEGS,
> I have the the geared bolt and track also the lower alt mount bolt and bracket.
> 
> are you saying that halfway cut shelf is not oem? im looking for remaval info on that part.
> ...


 Unless it's some weird thing VW did that I'm not aware of that looks to be a part of the failed ac delete. There is an allen bolt that may be holding your "makeshift" bracket in place under your upper timing belt cover, which is where the original bracket holding your alternator and A/C compressor used to be. That same void space where the bracket used to be should be the same size for your alternator to slip in perfectly. I own an '87 so it may be different. I'm not sure if you have a different engine block or not, or if the bracket is different. Look over this writeup a few more times until you are familiar with what you have that is different and what is needed.


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## DEGS (Nov 13, 2010)

MissHood said:


> So I found out that An original non-AC alt bracket doesn't work very well, I ended up finding A similar bracket as you degs but a bit different. I got everything setup at the moment, but the alt belt/pulley IDK is still kinda loud. any advice on that? I did notice that my cam gear pulley seem to not spin smoothly, nor straight(wobbles very slightly).
> 
> Boys, If I can do it(and I'm a women, obviously) you can too..:thumbup:


 Your belt shouldn't have more than an eighth inch of slack, if it is making noise you may need to replace it. Your water pump may also be the culprit, after I was able to get rid of the annoying squeal of my v-belt I realized that my water pump was whining. That ended up being a whole other set of problems with cooling systems leaks. If your cam sprocket is wobbling that's a whole different set of problems as well.


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## tinygiant (Mar 17, 2012)

http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Cabriolet/EngineElectrical/6/1 


there are two alternators offered one for ac and one without... 

My alternator is really loud (loud bearing) and i would like to replace it. If i replace it with the non ac one would that remove the need for the spacer washer? when doing the a/c removal? 


i'm guessing these would still fit in the same spot no problem? 


thanks!


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## briano1234 (Feb 20, 2004)

But what I have been noticing as of late, that when I order a replacement Alternator, it don't really matter if I order the a/c or no a/c part, they are all coming pulley-less. I have gone through 3 of them on my cars in the last 2 years, and all 3 came pulley-less. 

Yes, I can get bad parts.....or the re-manned die early that is why I go local, and use the hell out of my LLW. 

I am thinking it is because of a/c deletes, and knowing that if you buy the wrong one, you get the pulley that you need..  But to, if they don't include a pulley, they only have to do 1 rebuild for 2 types of cars, you just use your own pulley.... Which can be a Bee-itch to get off if you don't have impact sockets / air/electric impact gun, as I think it is a 28mm.


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## EURO RUN (Dec 19, 2004)

DEGS said:


> Unless it's some weird thing VW did that I'm not aware of that looks to be a part of the failed ac delete. There is an allen bolt that may be holding your "makeshift" bracket in place under your upper timing belt cover, which is where the original bracket holding your alternator and A/C compressor used to be. That same void space where the bracket used to be should be the same size for your alternator to slip in perfectly. I own an '87 so it may be different. I'm not sure if you have a different engine block or not, or if the bracket is different. Look over this writeup a few more times until you are familiar with what you have that is different and what is needed.


 Hoping I can get help from and 84 gti owner. When I look under this plate it looks just like other ac compressor brackets only with this plate on it. if it was rigged up I don’t know how they would have attached it. 
Hoping to confirm if this is an oem part or not and how to remove.


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## briano1234 (Feb 20, 2004)




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## tinygiant (Mar 17, 2012)

Gap said the altetnators i linled to both come complete with pulleys

Sent from my VM670 using Tapatalk 2


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## DEGS (Nov 13, 2010)

briano1234 said:


>


 I'm a little surprised. That bracket looks completely...ghetto.


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

Nope, that's the early A/C bracket. I yanked one off of my '82 back in the day. You have to remember they were still using the big, clunky York style compressors back then. 

And Briano is spot on, as usual. There's no difference in the A/C and non-A/C alts, except for the pulley. 

Alicia, I keep telling you to give me a call and Sharon and I will come hang out and give you a hand!


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## tinygiant (Mar 17, 2012)

just a heads up
we did the a/c compressor removal but when i put my alternator into the engine block where the a/c bracket was the fan on the alternator makes contact with the shroud that protects the timing belt.. So we put the bracket back on and tomorrow i'll just find a new v belt to make it work. 

should be fine tomorrow once i find a good belt for it


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## tinygiant (Mar 17, 2012)

got a new belt for the alt and things ar good  thanks for the writeup!


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## rabbitnothopper (Oct 19, 2009)

optional dealer installed AC (in ft worth, tx i believe) 

AC plate is still present


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## EURO RUN (Dec 19, 2004)

briano1234 said:


>


 from that diagram i dont see any mounting from the left side, iv been told I would have to remoive lower timing belt cover to get to bolt holding it on.


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## EURO RUN (Dec 19, 2004)

rabbitnothopper said:


> optional dealer installed AC (in ft worth, tx i believe)
> 
> AC plate is still present


 this set up is interesting. 
is the alt mounted below? 
i see part of the ac plate, was the rest cut away?


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## EURO RUN (Dec 19, 2004)

ok got it off, from the diagram the shelf looks like a separate part. seems its not. was able to get it off. got the none ac brackets for alt installed. 
have a belt that runs from crank to alt, what size belt is needed to run from crank to water pump? 
Thanks 

Edit: on second though is only one belt needed to run to the Alt, WP, and Crank? Looking like the alt will only work on the inside pulley of the crank, leaving the water pump to run off the crank alone? 


















sorry for the large pics for some reasion photobucket isnt working right now, not letting me resize the pics and i tried many times


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## tinygiant (Mar 17, 2012)

EURO RUN said:


> ok got it off, from the diagram the shelf looks like a separate part. seems its not. was able to get it off. got the none ac brackets for alt installed.
> have a belt that runs from crank to alt, what size belt is needed to run from crank to water pump?
> Thanks
> 
> ...


 
gap sells the belt listed as non a/c belt.


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## EURO RUN (Dec 19, 2004)

tinygiant said:


> gap sells the belt listed as non a/c belt.





rabbitnothopper said:


> no, you dont have power steering?
> 
> ok
> 
> ...




















from the second pic you can see the alt brackets. all seems correct. maybe its the wrong alt? it was included in the sale of the car so i dont know model 
really looks like 2 belts is whats needed. i went to AZ and they had no ac no ps listed for some models. the smallest length belt was 27 and its a little to long for crank to wp. 
and even if i get one right size it seems like it wont be possible to install with enough tension?


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## EURO RUN (Dec 19, 2004)

DEGS said:


> This is my setup using this thread as my only guideline. You still need the tensioner (the geared bolt and track.)
> 
> The extra washer from another alternator...
> 
> ...


 
DEGS, 
What do you thin of my set up? 
maybe need different alt pully? can you tell from the pics at all 
i think i will go to the pick n pull tomorrow and check out the cabby alt pulleys to see if they are offset enough for me to catch the outer crank pully along w the wp and alt so to run off of one belt. 
EDIT: it actually looks like maybe my difference is my wp pulley. looks as if yours line up with the inner crank pulley? my wp pulley line sup with the outer crank pulley.


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## EURO RUN (Dec 19, 2004)

Ok, so here’s what solves the problem. 
One belt needed with use of cupped wp pulley. 
Not cabby content but Ill post up this info any way as I found this thread while looking for gti solve. So id say others will end up here as well 



vanaguy said:


> There are two water pump hub sizes, 30 & 40mm. The pulleys are incompatible between them, so check what you've got before you pull parts.
> 
> You can find the dished pulley on early & later cars; it's a non-ac pulley. Lots of Foxes have the pulleys you need, and they tend to be easier to remove because their bolts are a little less exposed to the elements.
> 
> Clearance to the lower timing cover shouldn't be a problem in any case.





mk13nb said:


> There are different dished pulleys as well. The ones on the left are from an AC fox the ones on the right are from an AC cabriolet. Foxes have their AC unit under the exhaust manifold. The crank pulley is 2 piece with shims. The shim portion is used to tighten the belt on the AC. You can remove the shim portion and just use the inner. The water pump pulley also has a different offset.


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## gordinho (Feb 15, 2005)

DEGS said:


> The extra washer from another alternator...


 So I'm in process of doing this... I have some washers ready to space out the alternator pulley. If I try to match the thickness of the original washer, I don't have enough threads exposed with the lock washer in place on the inside of the pulley. If I omit the lock washer, the can get the nut tightened properly. Should I just omit the lock washer?


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## rabbitnothopper (Oct 19, 2009)

this is the best place to leave these pictures for you guys 

81 rabbit NON AC 

























78 rabbit W/AC (removed)


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## gordinho (Feb 15, 2005)

So I think I have the wrong alternator/alt pulley setup. If I try removing the AC bracket, moving the alt, there is NO WAY any amount of washers will line up with any other pulleys on my setup. I'll take some pics tomorrow.


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## briano1234 (Feb 20, 2004)

If you look at the normal (not the YORK style) of a/c mounting for the a/c bracket assembly, the front where the Allen goes through is a centering bushing similar to the alternator bracket.
If you place a washer at the back of the alternator when you install it in the a/c bracket you prevent the bushing from pushing the alternator to the back of the bracket.










The circle arrow is the front bushing mount that as you tighten the Allen it will push the bushing in to the alternator forcing it to the rear of the mount.

By placing washers at the back of the alternator you limit the movement of the alternator to the rear making your smaller pulley stick out to the front more.


----------



## gordinho (Feb 15, 2005)

I see what you're saying about the bushings... thanks. I had to put my AC compressor back in cause I have to drive the car these next few days/week, but I intend on resolving this very soon.

I should have taken a picture of the pulley when I had it all apart... but inside the cup, there is a very thick internal washer with 3 tabs on it that secure it in place. Getting it out could prove to be difficult. Without removing this internal washer, even with the centering bushing eliminated with a washer, and I add washers onto the alternator shaft, I do not have enough exposed thread to properly engage the nut. The internal washer on my pulley honestly is about 3/8" thick... taking up much of the needed alt shaft threading.



















Hopefully I was clear in my description... I dont know if anyone has a picture of their pulley from the inside when it is apart?

I see pics like this... 









And I can't help but think I have the wrong alternator pulley... unless I really do have to take the inside washer out... that is the only way I see myself getting enough thread engagement when I put it all back together. But is it safe to remove? Its there to thicken the pulley wall, no?


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## gordinho (Feb 15, 2005)

I just took some measurements... The inside washer is at least 8-9mm thick. The centering bushing on the AC bracket and the main bracket give me about 3-4mm. The belt is 9.5mm, add a couple of millimeters for the pulley lip... If I take out that washer and put it on the outside of the pulley, I should have all the room I need...

Pic showing the washer inside...


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## tinygiant (Mar 17, 2012)

85vwcabby said:


> I believe it has the proper pulley and a smaller fan... on my cabby, I tried to not use the A/C bracket, but when I mocked up the alternator, the fan scrubbed against the engine block. I might've done something wrong though. :banghead: Can't remember how I was mocking it up, it's possible the alternator was too far to the passenger side... causing the fan to rub... anyone have any suggestions? I'd like to drop that 5 pounds.


happened on my car too.. so i kept the bracket


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## rabbitnothopper (Oct 19, 2009)

your pulley









is not as long as this pulley









you need the longer pulley


----------



## gordinho (Feb 15, 2005)

The question is... where does one get this pulley?


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## Nash20thAE (Aug 12, 2003)

gordinho said:


> The question is... where does one get this pulley?


Got what I needed here:

http://www.toywagen.com/


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## rabbitnothopper (Oct 19, 2009)

wow that is a unique little online shop.......very interesting

thanks for pro-tip


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## tinygiant (Mar 17, 2012)

i was looking at this diagram and noticed a few things that say a/c only.. 

i noticed there is a idle boost valve, a check valve and a line that goes to a vac distributor. 


i've already removed the T that connects to the a/c vac reservoir since my car didnt have the reservoir when i bought it. 

should i cap off the line that goes to the vac distributor? and disconnect one of the idle boost valves? 


after doing the a/c delete i now have a little bit of a studder to the car. its not horrible.. but i'd like to make it go away. 

we also did a few other things that day (timing belt, timing (dead on) cap/rotor, plugs(ngk), belts.. etc we also replaced seals and holders on injector 1 since it was wiggly. I've sprayed carb cleaner all over every line and port i can find and havent found a vac leak.. figured maybe this could be the culprit?


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## briano1234 (Feb 20, 2004)

Just ran across this:
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/m...=4177710&SID=z92bkiy8x5gf&flexid=viglink&cj=1


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## EURO RUN (Dec 19, 2004)

tinygiant said:


> i was looking at this diagram and noticed a few things that say a/c only..
> 
> i noticed there is a idle boost valve, a check valve and a line that goes to a vac distributor.
> 
> ...


This will become useful when taking all missed " ac delete " parts.


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

tinygiant said:


> i was looking at this diagram and noticed a few things that say a/c only..
> 
> i noticed there is a idle boost valve, a check valve and a line that goes to a vac distributor.
> 
> ...


If you block off the line to the vacuum distributor your blend doors won't work anymore. Your heater will only blow on defrost, as that is the default safety setting. 

One of these days I'll finish my cable blend door control conversion using a non-AC Fox heater control.


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## tinygiant (Mar 17, 2012)

also dont mess around with using the old belt. order the 730mm belt from GAP and be done with it. 

i got a 740mm (too long) and a 726mm(too short) tried three local belt sizes and its either too long to be able to adjust (i get near constant squealing) 

or its too short and i cant get it on the pulley. 

been frustrating.


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## dave93cab (Jun 26, 2012)

Spokane Pepe said:


> I have a complete AC unit ill sell. I have pulled out all the AC parts and about to do this mod so my loss is your gain. :thumbup:


Do you still have the a/c parts? I'm interested! Same for anyone else that did the delete. I'm doing the opposite trying to get mine working. Mainly the two main hoses I need, but interested in other parts too..

Thanks


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## gordinho (Feb 15, 2005)

YJSAABMAN said:


> If you block off the line to the vacuum distributor your blend doors won't work anymore. Your heater will only blow on defrost, as that is the default safety setting.
> 
> One of these days I'll finish my cable blend door control conversion using a non-AC Fox heater control.


Heater only blowing on defrost is not a huge concern of mine. I can get used to just the defrost (which includes the side vents). Hell, that center vent space can be re-purposed into something else...

Would setting up the vacuum lines as such work?


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## gordinho (Feb 15, 2005)

Just to add... I currently have the vacuum reservoir disconnected and the center vents on my 89 still work with heat...


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## briano1234 (Feb 20, 2004)

If your check valve, and your Vacuum divertor, and servos don't leak in the Heater controls, then you are probably going to be ok.

If you ever have a issue see: http://www.toplessrabbit.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=2833


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## gordinho (Feb 15, 2005)

briano1234 said:


> Just ran across this:
> http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/m...=4177710&SID=z92bkiy8x5gf&flexid=viglink&cj=1


Just ordered one from partsgeek.com... $24.10 plus shipping.


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## cadzillaa (Feb 5, 2012)

*Not to exhaust a thread....*

O.K........93 cabby, trying an A/C delete whilst rebuilding engine/tranny, etc. Keeping power steering, trying to get rid of big A/C bracket. Alternator fan rubs timing cover when mounted in original (non-A/C) position...is there an easy work-around to this? If I remove washer behind fan, no rub, but the fan is no longer keyed to alternator shaft. Also, looking to line up crank, water pump and alternator pulley, alternator pulley is about 1 cm or less to the driver side of the other two pulleys.....is this: "Bosch W0133-1733061-BOS Alternator Pulley" (on Amazon) what I need? Read a lot of threads on here, maybe I'm not looking in the right place. Any help would really be appreciated!


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## briano1234 (Feb 20, 2004)

My Pulley isn't keyed to the shaft at all. 
Did you place a washer at the back of the Alternator mount so that as you tighten it it can't move to the rear of the bracket?


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## cadzillaa (Feb 5, 2012)

Maybe I don't understand.....don't I want the alternator to be at the back of the bracket to gain the most fan clearance? Also, if the pulley is not keyed, what is holding the pulley to the shaft...clamping force of the nut?


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## briano1234 (Feb 20, 2004)

cadzillaa said:


> Maybe I don't understand.....don't I want the alternator to be at the back of the bracket to gain the most fan clearance? Also, if the pulley is not keyed, what is holding the pulley to the shaft...clamping force of the nut?


You want the Alternator to be as far forward (towards the fender) as you can. The further that you set it back the more out of alignment it it. 

This is why I think you need to place a washer at the rear of the alternator as it sits int eh bracket so that it can't move to the rear. If you look at the bracket, it is a bushing at the front that as you tighten the bolt the bushing pushes the alternator to the rear, which is what the washers will stop.

The Alternator is not keyed, and the 28mm nut being Torqued is what holds it to the shaft. At least the last 4 alternators I have replaced had... as they were pulley-less out of the box.

Remember A new or free running alternator is really easy to turn or spin, not like a a/c compressor or Crank Pulley.


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## cadzillaa (Feb 5, 2012)

O.K., I get it and will try it, are there a million belt/pulley configurations for MK1?...or is it just me? My alternator was keyless....I thought it was P.O.'s fault, evidently not. Just not something I was completely comfortable with. How does one hold the alternator shaft while torqueing the pulley nut?


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## briano1234 (Feb 20, 2004)

Air Impact, and a gloved hand always worked for me.


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## Spokane Pepe (Nov 18, 2011)

I took mine to shucks and the guy zipped it off for me.


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## 99wolfsedition (Jan 22, 2007)

A few photos from my delete, only took a few steps, it is just as explained by original poster. Thanks for the information. 
1) Remove everything in the way of Alt. and A/C.
2) Remove Alt.
3) Remove A/C
4) Remove Bracket
5) Add bolts to water pump
6) Add spacers to Alt. pulley
7) Put on Alt.
8) Button everything back up
9) *Optional: remove what A/C lines you can and condenser.
































































Had some trouble here, but found it was the blades on alternator were out to far so rearranged how the pieces were on the pulley when added spacers.
















This is what you should end up with when all is said and done.
Again thanks for the information. Cheers

Sent from my LG-G2 using Tapatalk


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## CrabbyCabby (Dec 11, 2012)

ok so i know this is long but i just did this to my cabby yesterday and it turned out great!

only problem is now my power steering stopped working randomly!!!!!! Would anyone know why this is or had the same problem???

Thanks


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## briano1234 (Feb 20, 2004)

Belt slippage or binding on the water pump pulley.


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## CrabbyCabby (Dec 11, 2012)

Ill check that out...Should I just put it tighter you think?


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## briano1234 (Feb 20, 2004)

Check the gap between the wp pulley and the power steering pulley, folks replace them wrong side out and they can bind.

Look on the wp pulley and if you see a shiny area where the belt could be rubbing the wp pulley, then either get it tighter or remove the clearance issues.

If your pump bracket isn't totally fastened then that too could be the issue.

see: How I remove a power steering pump.


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## CrabbyCabby (Dec 11, 2012)

I just put the belt tight and still nothing...I literally didn't change or swap anything out, I took the AC compressed out and used that same belt on my Alternator...
Thats why I'm confused.

only thing i can think of and maybe this might make me sound really dumb lol but could it not be spinning the same speed as before since its on the Alt pulley now.


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## briano1234 (Feb 20, 2004)

It should be on a separate pulley off the crank.
It shouldn't be on the same pulley as the water pump.

Something isn't going to spin right IMHO. I would rather the Water Pump Belt drive the alternator.
If the Water Pump belt slips you could be in for a lot of trouble.... and not the good kind.


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## CrabbyCabby (Dec 11, 2012)

There it is!! I have the crank, WP and Alt on one belt the Crank, WP, and SP on the other...so maybe thats why!

Ill see if I can just run one belt to the crank and PS like you said!

Thanks


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## CrabbyCabby (Dec 11, 2012)

ok well i have a duel water pump pulley and the second part gets in the way of the belt just running to the crank....Do they sell or make single pulleys?


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## tinygiant (Mar 17, 2012)

It should go. Crank water pump and alternator. And then just water pump to power steering


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## CrabbyCabby (Dec 11, 2012)

Why the hell did I not think of that!!!!

im so dumb, lol


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## tinygiant (Mar 17, 2012)

if you need the belt numbers I think they are in my build thread in my sig


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## CrabbyCabby (Dec 11, 2012)

Hey Tiny do you think you can snap a good pic of how you have your belts set up? I got the belt numbers btw THANKS


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## tinygiant (Mar 17, 2012)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## tinygiant (Mar 17, 2012)

Bonus shots :





















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## tinygiant (Mar 17, 2012)

It's too bad I was building a nice tutorial website for all these projects. But wasn't getting enough traffic and funds from it to justify the time. I have pictures of most of these processes. Might even have threads bopping around the forum 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## rabbitnothopper (Oct 19, 2009)

well briano has his website and forums
he cross populates quite well

i think mainly its more important to keep the photos online for as long as possible
if you view back before 2006 about 60% of the forum threads are missing their photos


and what wrong with your camera?
got oil on the lense? its all sepia


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## briano1234 (Feb 20, 2004)

rabbitnothopper said:


> Well briano has his website and forums
> he cross populates quite well.
> 
> I think mainly its more important to keep the photos online for as long as possible
> if you view back before 2006 about 60% of the forum threads are missing their photos


I don't have a web-site, but I am active on about 3 different forums. I cross post or have the same how-do-I-do-it's on two forums that shouldn't disappear.
I have most links of all my how-do-I-do-it's in the FAQ's above, page 3 thread 75.

If you run across one that the photos may have been moved and are blank let me know and I will correct it.
All my photos are on a sharing service (photobucket) so they should be around for a while.

I don't do how-to's if there are ones already made... I will however link to them, and add other things if I think they need it.

You know you have made a good one, when Ron, or Kammy link your work in their website.


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## humbo (May 25, 2014)

I want to again express my appreciation to Brian and to Ron and Kammy, for the wonderful help they are to those of us trying to keep our Cabbys alive. Without them, it would be close to impossible, especially for those of us that are 'mechanically challenged'.
Jim


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## keganater (Apr 29, 2008)

Anyone have some pics on removing the lines from the inside of the car? 

TIA :thumbup:


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## briano1234 (Feb 20, 2004)

You mean like this?




You would need to either Cut the smaller single, and unscrew the larger one, other wise you are going to have to remove your air box to get the evaporator out.
If you do cut the lines, be sure that you seal the 2 holes in the firewall from the outside.


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

Good grief this is still active? And I'm doing this on my cabby as I type this. 

Also swapping in Buffy's ABA/JH engine. Should be fun.

...0ran...


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## briano1234 (Feb 20, 2004)

WB Mo'


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## mrgti1983 (Sep 11, 2005)

I did this last year and apparently didn't see or didn't register adding a washer to extend my pully. So now my water pump is very wobbley. :banghead::banghead:

I tried adding 2 spacers but found I could barley get the nut on the pully. I'm going to try briano1234 l's suggestion and put the washers on the drivers side of the mount hopefully that will give me the clearance I need to align the belt so I don't burn through another water pump.
Has anyone been able to get them perfectly aligned. I don't have ps so my belt connects the crank, wp and alt
Here is what it looks like currently with 2 washers added to the pulley


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## AbsoluteYeti (Jul 30, 2014)

I'm in the process of doing this and a heater delete right now. haven't gotten past removing the engine bay components and one of the two hard lines into the firewall though. 

pm me if you need any A/C parts


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## inlovewithavdubengine (Sep 1, 2011)

centralmn said:


> I'm in the process of doing this and a heater delete right now. haven't gotten past removing the engine bay components and one of the two hard lines into the firewall though.


A heater delete? Why? The heater helps keep the engine cool and does not significantly affect horsepower.

Based on your location I would deduce that you garage it during the winter. (I spent Christmas in Minneapolis once... brr.) Still seems like a bunch of work and expense for what is ultimately a negative payoff.


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## Mk2drtydiesel (Aug 1, 2013)

i am doing this on my 1.6ld na with the 90 amp alternator looking for part numbers on those alt pullies!


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## JsImber (Oct 6, 2003)

If anyone is currently removing the AC systems from your cabriolets, I have an 88 that needs one of the hoses. The longer hose with the bracket that attaches to the strut tower. During disassembly the AC compressor broke off inside that hose, rendering both useless. A new compressor is easy, can't find a good hose to save my life though. Contact me PM if you have one you don't mind parting with.


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## jgold723 (Jul 23, 2010)

A warning about this mod -- that big bracket may actually help support the power steering pump. I did this delete, successfully and things went well for a year or so, but eventually one of the aluminum brackets holding the power steering pump cracked. I've been told it's due to the additional stress placed on that bracket. Something to consider before you toss that big bracket.


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

jgold723 said:


> A warning about this mod -- that big bracket may actually help support the power steering pump. I did this delete, successfully and things went well for a year or so, but eventually one of the aluminum brackets holding the power steering pump cracked. I've been told it's due to the additional stress placed on that bracket. Something to consider before you toss that big bracket.


Who has power steering on a mk1? Lol! Actually, my wife's does, but hers has an ABA serpentine belt setup.


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## briano1234 (Feb 20, 2004)

jgold723 said:


> A warning about this mod -- that big bracket may actually help support the power steering pump. I did this delete, successfully and things went well for a year or so, but eventually one of the aluminum brackets holding the power steering pump cracked. I've been told it's due to the additional stress placed on that bracket. Something to consider before you toss that big bracket.


I would like to know which bracket failed.
as I had a Pivot bolt leave the car, the one that goes through the ps pump.
Which would be about the same thing, and I really didn't notice it until I saw it gone while changing the t-stat.
So The other Bracket that bolts to the bottom by the oil pan is sufficiently heavy to carry the weight. As well as you can remove the bottom bracket and the pump stays tight.
The other brackets that bolt to the front of the pump, and the block where the adjuster is can support the weight as well. I suspect that maybe your belt tension was too tight.
and torguing the whole shebang a tad.


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## krittens (Apr 30, 2015)

I hope to do this soon, but also want to remove the ps at the same time, so I suppose that would eliminate the issue of the ps pump and bracket issues?


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## matty kirk (Jul 2, 2007)

Cars with P/S and not A/C had one of these on them.









The picture is horrible, but you get the idea. Something to consider for those deleting A/C, but keeping P/S. 
Also, the bracket pictured came off of an Audi. It has a different part# and doesn't quite seem to fit a Cabby 1.8. VW one is super similar and fits right up.


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## jgold723 (Jul 23, 2010)

Ah, yes, that's probably what I need. The guy at the junkyard said those brackets were hard to find though. I'm wondering what would happen if I just cut the big honking AC bracket in half and use the lower portion to get the same effect as this one?


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## jgold723 (Jul 23, 2010)

Hi Brian -- I think the bracket that cracked is the one that bolts near the oil pan. It's possible that I overtighten the PS pump belt, but that's been another issue since the AC delete -- the belt keeps loosening on me and I end up with a squealing belt.


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## briano1234 (Feb 20, 2004)

jgold723 said:


> Hi Brian -- I think the bracket that cracked is the one that bolts near the oil pan. It's possible that I overtighten the PS pump belt, but that's been another issue since the AC delete -- the belt keeps loosening on me and I end up with a squealing belt.


Wow that is a herky hunk of Aluminum I supposed it cracked at the take off for the pump bolts.

I would of thought that the Strain would of been on the front Steel bracket as I have taken that rear bracket off, and such, and my belt never lost tension.

I would try to fine the a/c less Bracket, or possibly cut the other one down, or fab a Steel Plate to bolt to and pivot from.


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## jgold723 (Jul 23, 2010)

Yeah, I was a little surprised it broke as well. I have a potential line on replacement bracket and if that falls through, I'll cut down my AC version. That will have only two mounting points (the ones that go through the water pump), not three like the replacement bracket. But I'm assuming (hoping) those two points will be sufficient, given that the only thing this is doing is assisting.


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## jgold723 (Jul 23, 2010)

Follow up... I wasn't able to find a non a/c bracket, so I simply cut my big honkin AC bracket in half and bolted the lower half back on and reassembled. Pump seems nice and tight and adjusts well -- no squealing. I did discover in the process that one of the PS pivot bolts (the upper one that's hidden in the bracket -- was missing. That may very well have been the cause of the other one breaking the bracket.

At any rate, this setup feels very strong. Thanks to all for your help and advice.


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## briano1234 (Feb 20, 2004)

jgold723 said:


> Follow up... I wasn't able to find a non a/c bracket, so I simply cut my big honkin AC bracket in half and bolted the lower half back on and reassembled. Pump seems nice and tight and adjusts well -- no squealing. I did discover in the process that one of the PS pivot bolts (the upper one that's hidden in the bracket -- was missing. That may very well have been the cause of the other one breaking the bracket.
> 
> At any rate, this setup feels very strong. Thanks to all for your help and advice.



Nice Mod, I really love the Never-Seize...


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## jgold723 (Jul 23, 2010)

briano1234 said:


> Nice Mod, I really love the Never-Seize...


Thanks Brian -- a high compliment from you!

I love Never-Seize. My mechanical skills are at the level that invariably I must return to the scene of the crime and fix/undo whatever I've screwed up. NS allows me to sleep at night.


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## Moljinar (Sep 20, 2001)

matty kirk said:


> Cars with P/S and not A/C had one of these on them.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## ThatRuinedMk1 (Jan 15, 2017)

how did you configure the belts that run the alternator pulley, water and power steering pump?


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## Tim Tessier (Aug 29, 2021)

Moljinar said:


> Having gone all summer and not lost the20 lbs. I swore I was gonna lose I decided to remove it from my car.
> So bye-bye A/C system!
> First remove your alternator and lay it aside. If you didn't disconnect the positive terminal I'd suggest doing so.
> 
> ...


I just completed this same A/C delete on my 1987 VW Cabriolet Wolfsburg and I can't say thank you enough for this writeup. You couldn't have made it any easier for me. Everything you need to complete the task from start to finish is right here. If anyone is debating on if they should do this or try to fix the A/C compressor, get rid of the dead weight - it's a convertible!

My one bit of advice to pass along when doing this is invest in a set of hex head sockets. What a life saver. Allen wrenches would have never gotten the job done.

Thanks - Tim T


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