# To boldly go where no 1.8T has gone before!



## Fox22 (Jul 22, 2007)

**Hello all, I've decided to post a copy of this here after just having discovered this Hybrid/Swap section as its probably more appropriate for this project and I havent had any response from the 1.8T section. If a moderator could please get rid of my post in the 1.8T forum I would appreciate it.** 

Alright, I need some advice here to hopefully clarify a few concerns and get some expert opinions. I'm trying to determine how realistic my goal is with this project. I don't know if my ambitions are doable or maybe i've been breathing too many CARC fumes. 

---and yes I have searched, but I cant seem to find concise answers to all my questions 

A little background: 
In the late 70s VW/Audi developed the Type 183 AKA the Iltis; a light unarmored patrol vehicle for the German military. In 1980 four Iltis were entered in the Paris-Dakar rally and finished 1st, 2nd 4th and 9th. In the mid 1980s Bombardier bought the production equipment from VW and began building the trucks for the Canadian military. In 2007 I bought an Iltis. Now I'm hopelessly addicted and looking to build another from scratch... but with a twist- 

The Iltis is essentially a collage of VW/Audi parts. It was the prototype for Audi Quattro and as such has a transmission and driveline very similar to the early Audi 80 and 100s. The engine is a low compression (for running low grade fuel found in some corners of the world) 1.7L 8v carb. motor from the Rabbit. Windshield-VW thing, Cluster/steering wheel-VW beetle, seats Jetta MK1, etc etc. you get the idea. 

SOOOO ANNNYYYWAY- over the last couple years I've been collecting parts to build a complete NEW Iltis from all NOS parts. My ambition however is to build a "2011" Iltis- ditch the military color scheme and in the words of Kayne West- "Pimp it out like xhibit to the n'th degree". 

I'm keeping the original Audi-esque driveline (with the exception of adding a front locking diff) which from what I can tell will bolt up to any 4 cylinder VW motor - specifically the 1.8T. The Iltis originally came with 75hp (downhill toward a magnet factory) so bumping that up to a brisk 170-180 is an idea I've had my heart set on for a while now. 

I've found a local guy here parting out a 2002 Audi A4 with 153k kms and for $1200 CND has agreed to give me whatever I need to get the engine to run. My question is, what exactly am I going to need, what issues can I expect, and how viable do you all think this idea is? 

I figure I'm going to need the following: 
-Engine with turbo/manifolds etc. 
-Alternator (Iltis is a 24V vehicle) 
-Wiring harness (has been cut comming out of engine but I figure I can splice it back together) 
-Drive-by-wire POS*^%&  Throttle pedal 
-Cluster (and under-dash harness) 
-Downpipe with o2 sensors (don't plan to run a cat because I'm already emissions exempt) 
-Steering column RFID pickup coil 
-Key with RFID chip 

Is there anything I am missing?? 

1) Can I just replace the keyswitch with toggle switches, tape the RFID chip to the pickup coil and assume the immobilizer won't give me any hassle? 
2) How many wiring harnesses am I looking for?- is the engine harness/pedal connection/cluster connection all one piece? 
3) Do I need the cluster to run the engine (once its in the vehicle) 
4) Is there any voodoo magic in the ignition switch or other switches/sensors in the form of a resistance value that will prevent the engine from running without it? 
5) Are there any sensors on the air intake box/system that I have to locate as well? 
6) Are there any fuse panels/junction boxes that I will need aside from those in the little box the ECU lives in? 
7) Is there an injector lift pump (pressure pump? Not sure of the correct name) on the engine for the EFI system or does the engine require a specific pressure from the incomming fuel to run- ie: do I need to use the stock fuel pump or will the engine be happy as long as I just get fuel to it in sufficient quantity? 
8) Again- Am I missing anything? 

Any help would be much appreciated. I think I've found a great deal on the engine and ancillaries but frankly I'm getting a little scared with all the electronics. I'm a whiz with the stock iltis systems.... but its a carb'ed engine and the extent of its "electronics" are limited to a transistor in a shiny box. I'm not an idiot by any stretch (some may disagree), I used to work in a performance garage doing swaps on nissans but this is the most I have ever taken on single-handedly in such an "exotic?" application and want to make sure I have all my bases covered and not getting in over my head. Do I pull the trigger and buy the powerplant or should I reconsider and look at something simpler like a 2.0L 8V crossflow? 

Thanks for reading, any advice is much appreciated! 

Stock engine: 









I want to do this on asphalt!


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

:laugh: at posting this in the 1.8t forum. You'll learn why the more you spend time on the Vortex. 

Cool History Lesson start and it sounds like you have a real fun project. I will try to answer some of your questions. 

To start, what I am unsure of is if the A4, Even though it is Longitudinal) has the correct Crank snout to work with your drive drain (unless you plan on using the A4 Drive train complete? Anyway, I am sure that can be overcome regardless. 

Also, get as much as you possibly can. Better to have extra harnesses and such and not need them than to have to start buying a plug or 2 that are missing as that will nickel and Dime you to death. In fact, get the whole fuse panel just for the heck of it if he is willing to include  Also get the harness back to the Fuel Pump, level sender etc. 

Answering your questions by#: 
#1 Yes, you should be able to energize the Ign coil that way 
#2 Cluster Harness is separate. I "think" the pegal may be separate as well as I don't recall it being on my AWP engine harness that I used for my project. Regardless, see Comment above regarding harnesses. 
#3 Yes, and it must match or else you will need to buy and Imobile Defeat Chip from a Tuner 
#4 As long as you get what you listed already, you should be fine. 
#5 No, there shouldn't be however there is a Map sensor in the Intercooler, etc if I recall correctly, so get the whole intake tract 
#6 Yes, again, get as much wiring as you can so you can sift and decide what you want to keep and how you will integrate. A lot of people that have done 1.8T swaps are going into a car that was already CE2 Electric, so it is easy to integrate. Others going into say a Mk1 have more of a challenge as you will, but not that big of a deal if you can read the Bentley wiring diagrams. You may want to run the 1.8T Fuse panel in paralell or just replace what you have as I suspect yours should be pretty basic  
#7 The 1.8T (actually Mk3 and above) use a single pump assy in the Fuel Tank. It is a 2 stage pump with the fuel sender integrated onto it. (get it from the A4, so you at least have the sender as the resistance is opposite of earlier Vws if you plan on running the stock Cluster, ecu, etc.). There is noting magical about the pump though. As long as you can supply the pressure and volume to meet your needs you are fine. The Pressure is controlled by a Variable Fuel Pressure regulator on the rail that returns to the tank. 
#8 I think you are on the right track. I will let others respond for anything that I missed initially. 

One think you "may" want to consider is going standalone ECU. This way you can get rid of a lot of the emission control stuff that you will need to place in your Bay as well as eliminating all of the Immobile stuff and you can run DBC. Just a thought to consider. 

Certainly if you can get all of the wiring, complete swap, cluster, column and all of the other stuff, you have a good start to use the stock ECU. 

Shawn


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## Mr Roo (Aug 8, 2006)

I have always loved these things. THere was a clean one for sale on Samba last year. I always thought the motor lacked, but understood why it was there. I always thought a turbo ABA and a little lift and wheels would do these justice.


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## MikkiJayne (Jan 1, 2007)

sdezego said:


> One think you "may" want to consider is going standalone ECU.


 I think this ^ is by far the best idea :thumbup: Trying to graft A4 wiring in to an Iltis sounds like a total nightmare to me, especially since its 24V.

I'd be looking at converting it to 12V if at all possible - I shouldn't imagine it has much in the way of electrics other than lighting, which should be simple enough. Standalone will be far, far, simpler than using the stock A4 stuff.

In terms of fitment I would think that if the Iltis does use a derivative of the old-faithful 8V block (looks like it) then the crank shouldn't be a problem. The bolt pattern will certainly be the same, although there may be some variation in the pilot bearing. 

Great plan though :thumbup:


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## Fox22 (Jul 22, 2007)

Thanks alot Shawn, thats exactly the kind of stuff I needed to know! 

Mr. Roo- Iltises are all over the place really. Just try checking out kijiji.ca for the Toronto area and crank the "search distance" to 1000kms. You'll find about 20 of them. Parts are readily available and this year they qualify to be registered in the States. Lifting one is pretty tough though as the chassis and suspension are very difficult to change without alot of fabrication. A body lift is very doable but just with larger tires they look great. I'm running 235/85/16 and they're the perfect size. http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u218/fox22photos/Iltistripaugust8th004.jpg 

MikkiJayne- The way I'm planning on doing the wiring is to have essentially two independent systems. The engine electronics running on 12V and the rest of the vehicle on 24V. I havent decided if I am going to run two alternators or rely on a switching power supply to feed the Audi harness. I figure it shouldnt take more than 20A to run the engine systems. If I can mount the Leece Neville alternator to the 1.8 then I'll go with the power converter. If not I'll look at converting the rest of the truck or running two alternators. A 24V system is really nice to have sometimes- being able to leave your headlights on, and music cranked for 2 days is key for camping trips. One time my current iltis broke down at the bottom of a huge hill at my cottage. I was able to crank using the starter all the way up the 100ft hill in 2 ft of snow and into the garage. The next time I went up there was still enough juice to troubleshoot, start and get it running again! 

The pilot bearing, I've seen some VW clutch kits come with just a bronze bushing in place of a bearing so I think I could just machine one to fit the crank and input shaft out of bronze and be done with it. If the bore for the pilot bushing is larger in the crank maybe I'll make a collar to press in and use the stock bearing. I'll deal with it when it becomes an issue in any case. 

Thanks again for the advice- keep it comming!


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## MikkiJayne (Jan 1, 2007)

I guess there are advantages to 24V then :thumbup:

I would be inclined to use both alternators in that case, especially if your starter is 24V already. You could use a very small 12V alternator (prob a Japanese one) to charge a motorcycle or race car 12V battery which would run all the engine electronics and leave the 24V stuff doing everything else. 

How big is the space for the cluster in the dash? I would be thinking along the lines of using a standalone like MS or 034 on the dedicated 12V and using it to run something like a mk3 or Corrado cluster. Nice and simple with no extra computer trickery, but everything you need all in one. Maybe even a mk2 cluster if your standalone would drive the tach, since thats even simpler.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

sdezego said:


> One think you "may" want to consider is going standalone ECU. This way you can get rid of a lot of the emission control stuff that you will need to place in your Bay as well as eliminating all of the Immobile stuff and you can run DBC. Just a thought to consider.
> Shawn


 I have to totally agree with Shawn & MJ concerning running a standalone. As far as a cluster to use with it (the standalone) Mk3 would be an easy solution. Getting a Mk2 or G60 tach to work on anything but coil negative trigger or a waste spark diode bridge is a GIANT PITA (I'm working with that issue right now on my Corrado). A Mk3 tach can be driven easily with a megasquirt (been there done that).


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## MikkiJayne (Jan 1, 2007)

Good point about the mk2 tach with the standalone. The Corrado G60 digital odometer cluster works perfectly with standalone though :thumbup:


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## MK3NORTH (Jul 14, 2004)

If you want to use the 1.8T, I would recommend sourcing a 02+ motor from an A4 and complete engine/car harness/ECU from a Golf/Jetta. 80% of the wiring you will not use and can remove. It will be alot easier to wire up the lights than to graft in standalone EFI, plus it will run 100% out of the box, make reliable power and never blow a motor. My biggest worry would be the drivetrain, with 3x the power of stock I'm not sure that it'll take it without various upgrades. Something I am sure of though is that gearing will not be optimal for a chipped 1.8T. 

Another much simpler/cheaper route would get a 1.6 TD from a MK2 or early MK3 1.9TD. Not much wiring hassel there


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## vwdriver92 (Feb 9, 2001)

Looks like it could be a cool project... here is an Idea of the voltage problem... If you dont want to convert the whole thing to 12v, try using the 24v system along with a voltage converter... Try the steelsoldiers.com forum, lots of guys over their keep there military vehicles 24 volt and run 12 volt accesories.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

MikkiJayne said:


> Good point about the mk2 tach with the standalone. The Corrado G60 digital odometer cluster works perfectly with standalone though :thumbup:


yeah but find one lol! I've been trying for months without success.


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## Fox22 (Jul 22, 2007)

The standalone is definitely an attractive option but it sounds quite pricey as well and likely out of my price range for the time being. Unfortunately there isnt much room at all for a cluster on the dash. The stock iltis cluster is from a superbeetle and I'd like to keep that part of it stock for the sake of having a clean looking dash etc. When I get the cluster I figure I should be able to thin it down a bit and hide it under the dash and wire up remote CEL and other status lights to existing indicators in the Iltis cluster. As for a display, I have a ScangageII in my other car right now. I figure that would be a very simple, easy and discreet solution to displaying data from the OBD such as RPMs, water temp, etc. although I do plan to hook up the stock iltis guages as well. 

If I send out the ECU to be re-flashed without the immobilizer features, will I be able to run without the cluster and still have full OBD2 capability?

As far as the strength of the driveline goes, I have total confidence in everything from the Transmission output flanges onward. The Iltis has a low gear that produces bone shattering torque and there is no way I will be exceeding these limits on the road. (Towwing of immovable objects in G gear however, may require some restraint lol) My only concern is the input shaft to the transmission which is indeed smaller than the Audi A4 input shaft. The actual gears inside the gearcase are shared with a plethora of other higer power Audi vehicles so I am not as concerned about them. I had considered running the A4 driveline entirely because again despite an age difference of 20+ yrs, they are still very similar in size/layout but the Iltis runs 31" tires and compound that with the lack of low range on the A4 box, it would be useless offroad and likely rather long-legged from a standing stop on-road. 

MK3North- The gearing in the Iltis isn't exactly optimal for anything but messing about offroad lol. Stock, with a 6500RPM redline it maxes out at 130km/hr on the highway. The thought of swapping a Diesel engine would seem perfect but the problem is that when you're on the highway, even at 100km/hr a diesel engine runs way outside its efficiency range almost at its redline. xrayboy who posted on here a while back has successfully swapped in a 1.6TD motor but last I talked to him he said he would never do it again. Although its great offroad, the on-road performance is lacking. With the larger tires, I've GPSed my truck at 145km/hr. This is plenty fast enough for the chassis dyanmics of the Iltis- at that speed you're not really driving a car so much as you're flying an airplane lol. (Just the thought of swapping the whole A4 driveline and having an Iltis capable of 200km/hr+ frankly scares the $#!* out of me.) With the 1.8's higher (I think) redline and the fact that it is likely much smoother-running and capable of the higher revs, I think I'll be quite happy being limited to ~140km/hr. What I'm really hoping to accomplish with the 1.8 is just be able to get up to speed FAST-- while towwing a loaded M101 trailer (Iltis trailer) and a carload of people. At the moment, getting up to speed and merging is a harrowing experience when fully loaded- When actually asked to "work" on the highway, the iltis makes most transport trucks look like rocket ships. 

Mikkijayne- I like the idea of just running a tiny 12V alternator- I have a heater unit off a sea container which has an alternator the size of a soup can. I'll have to investigate this.

Iltis Dash:


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## MK3NORTH (Jul 14, 2004)

Fox22 said:


> If I send out the ECU to be re-flashed without the immobilizer features, will I be able to run without the cluster and still have full OBD2 capability?


Yes, apart from the immo, the rest of the ECU is 100% functional. If you want a functional check engine light, I highly recommend getting your ECU chipped and have all emissions deletes done at the same time. You will spend useless time adding useless parts making your setup CEL free without a software flash.

You want to look for the 02+ ECU/harness due to it being a system that relies of a wideband 02 sensor in 'realtime'. It is a far superior system than any of the earlier stuff, your tuning options are much better as well for future upgrades.

What do you plan on using the car for? Unless you want to drive it off road most of the time, longer gears sound like a must. With a top speed that low and a 1.8T, you could probably go from a dead stop to top speed in the same gear. What do you have planned for the clutch?


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Actually Megasuirt can be quite cheap. My buddy had his 1.8T powered Corrado running on a self built MS1 kit that cost less than $400 with a wideband for over 2 years before we switched it to MS3 for Beta testing.


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## Fox22 (Jul 22, 2007)

I spoke with my former employer and he recommended ViPEC but said there may be some work required to provide it with a proper crank/camshaft position signal. Anyone ever heard of this system? Machining a tone pattern into the flywheel/crank pulley won't be an issue for me but I would rather use stock sensors. So far I'm really leaning toward just a re-flash. seems like the most turn-key option. If I can keep the stock harness it would save alot of work and money. 

The car is going to be used primarily as a sort of fun cruiser/road trip/camping summer car and on occasion, rally car lol (I dont know how you would classify it). I don't plan to go all-out offroad because with the electronics on the engine I doubt it would fare very well without meticulous waterproofing/testing etc. I think the 1.8t is just too complicated and "electronic" to be reliable in any kind of wet conditions offroad. I will however give it a shot- I'll test it with a firehose to the engine bay before attempting any real trips. I will also have to be very wary of any kind of deep water crossings with that damn drive-by-wire pedal sitting on the floor. 

I have been exploring regearing the transmission and have a pretty decent spreadsheet for what gears will swap from what cars courtesy of the yahoo iltis forum and someone with access to VW etka. I am currently trying to dupe my nephew into pulling the transmission from an 84 2000s I acquired a while back (because I havent had time) to see if the gears are compatible. If they are I should be able to get a 10% taller 3rd and 17% taller 4th which will help. If not though, I have accepted it won't be very fast on the highway but my current Iltis cruises quite nicely at 120 with earplugs and with the 1.8t it won't be any worse.


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## tonythayer (Apr 3, 2006)

I have nothing to add except that I had no idea such a vehicle existed. I will waste hours reading about them now. Admirable project!


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Fox22 said:


> I spoke with my former employer and he recommended ViPEC but said there may be some work required to provide it with a proper crank/camshaft position signal. Anyone ever heard of this system? Machining a tone pattern into the flywheel/crank pulley won't be an issue for me but I would rather use stock sensors. So far I'm really leaning toward just a re-flash. seems like the most turn-key option. If I can keep the stock harness it would save alot of work and money.
> 
> The car is going to be used primarily as a sort of fun cruiser/road trip/camping summer car and on occasion, rally car lol (I dont know how you would classify it). I don't plan to go all-out offroad because with the electronics on the engine I doubt it would fare very well without meticulous waterproofing/testing etc. I think the 1.8t is just too complicated and "electronic" to be reliable in any kind of wet conditions offroad. I will however give it a shot- I'll test it with a firehose to the engine bay before attempting any real trips. I will also have to be very wary of any kind of deep water crossings with that damn drive-by-wire pedal sitting on the floor.
> 
> I have been exploring regearing the transmission and have a pretty decent spreadsheet for what gears will swap from what cars courtesy of the yahoo iltis forum and someone with access to VW etka. I am currently trying to dupe my nephew into pulling the transmission from an 84 2000s I acquired a while back (because I havent had time) to see if the gears are compatible. If they are I should be able to get a 10% taller 3rd and 17% taller 4th which will help. If not though, I have accepted it won't be very fast on the highway but my current Iltis cruises quite nicely at 120 with earplugs and with the 1.8t it won't be any worse.


 One more reason to use Megasquirt or some other standalone. Ditch the DBW pedals and throttle and run an ODB1 ABA throttle body and it'll be a lot safer for playing offroad. 

Regardless of which way you go VERY cool project!


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## Fox22 (Jul 22, 2007)

> Ditch the DBW pedals and throttle and run an ODB1 ABA throttle body and it'll be a lot safer for playing offroad.


Hmmmmmmm you sir may have me sold! Will the megasquirt work with the stock crank/camshaft position sensors? A custom harness with amphenol connectors and I may actually be able to run this thing under water!

As for the clutch I was planning to just stick with the stock clutch. I figure this will be the weakest link in the driveline and should prevent me from doing stupid things and chewing up the transmission. It's the same clutch as found in the early Audi 100 - 7-7/8" diameter I think.. (I can check when I get home)

I've committed to buy the motor, so I'll probably pick it up later this week and start stripping off all the non-essentials. The guy has also agreed to let me remove the harnesses etc for myself so that I can pick up anything I've overlooked.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Fox22 said:


> Hmmmmmmm you sir may have me sold! Will the megasquirt work with the stock crank/camshaft position sensors? A custom harness with amphenol connectors and I may actually be able to run this thing under water!
> 
> As for the clutch I was planning to just stick with the stock clutch. I figure this will be the weakest link in the driveline and should prevent me from doing stupid things and chewing up the transmission. It's the same clutch as found in the early Audi 100 - 7-7/8" diameter I think.. (I can check when I get home)
> 
> I've committed to buy the motor, so I'll probably pick it up later this week and start stripping off all the non-essentials. The guy has also agreed to let me remove the harnesses etc for myself so that I can pick up anything I've overlooked.


An MS1 won't do sequential, MS2 will but requires extra driver boards. MS3 with an MS3X will do anything and everything except drive by wire. Personnally what I would do is get an MS2 and have it set up for 4 cylinder direct fired waste spark. You can then get a 4 cylinder coil pack and use it to fire the plugs instead of the crappy VAG coils. And Yes MS works fine with the stock crank and cam sensors but you don't even need the cam sensor unless you go sequential. (sequential improves idle and low end drivability but it really isn't essential for a good running set up).

A 1.8T has a 228mm hydraulic clutch set up on it from the factory but your existing clutch set up will bolt right on to the crankshaft.


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## MK3NORTH (Jul 14, 2004)

Fox22 said:


> I will also have to be very wary of any kind of deep water crossings with that damn drive-by-wire pedal sitting on the floor.


Hmm... that is a very valid concern that never crossed my mind. I would still stick to an OEM harness/ECU to run the motor. 96-99 A4/Passat AEB stuff will work, DBC and no immo defeat required.

At this point though I would start swaying towards a standalone option. The AEB stuff is not really cutting edge and the sensors are mostly AEB exclusive and expensive. It is still cheaper to source a used harness then build a complete one from scratch, quality connectors can really get expensive.

Are you keeping the 24v system? In your converting to 12v, an OEM harness will get you a large amount of high quality wires, connectors, relay and fuse system for cheap. If you go this route using an OEM engine harness/ECU is a no brainer.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

MK3NORTH said:


> Hmm... that is a very valid concern that never crossed my mind. I would still stick to an OEM harness/ECU to run the motor. 96-99 A4/Passat AEB stuff will work, DBC and no immo defeat required.
> 
> At this point though I would start swaying towards a standalone option. The AEB stuff is not really cutting edge and the sensors are mostly AEB exclusive and expensive. It is still cheaper to source a used harness then build a complete one from scratch, quality connectors can really get expensive.
> 
> Are you keeping the 24v system? In your converting to 12v, an OEM harness will get you a large amount of high quality wires, connectors, relay and fuse system for cheap. If you go this route using an OEM engine harness/ECU is a no brainer.


High quality wires? Sure if you like working with 24 gage thread that breaks when you look at it wrong.


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## Fox22 (Jul 22, 2007)

Can you run a drive-by-wire engine with a reflashed ECU without the pedal and just hook up a cabled throttle body and TPS? I had figured that the ECU would use the signal from the pedal as its throttle position but from the looks of a couple wiring diagrams I found, it seems the servo motor and TPS are independent of each other. 

I have to open up one of the voltage converters I have and figure out how a common ground to both the 12 and 24V systems would affect the two circuits. I THINK it supports a common ground but I'll have to check the wiring inside to be sure. If not, I'll be running a second (tiny) alternator stolen from a Yanmar diesel motor I have kicking around and a seperate 7Ah 12V gel cell just for the engine.


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## polov8 (Apr 14, 2004)

Fox22 said:


> Iltis Dash:


I take issue with this being described as a dash! That's a gauge! 

Love this concept, I've seen and read about the iltis, but never seen one in person. Very cool project


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Fox22 said:


> Can you run a drive-by-wire engine with a reflashed ECU without the pedal and just hook up a cabled throttle body and TPS? I had figured that the ECU would use the signal from the pedal as its throttle position but from the looks of a couple wiring diagrams I found, it seems the servo motor and TPS are independent of each other.


I wouldn't want to try. The wiring harnesses are substantially different between DBW and DBC. Besides custom reflashes are NOT cheap.


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## mattinbend (Oct 12, 2000)

You want an 8d0 907 557P style ECU and sensors/harness from an AEB style motor.
I would stick with an OE management if it were my project; imo. I would also make sure to get the Baro sensor and the entire airbox assy(coil driver is installed on the airbox). evap purge solenoid and fresh air pump. Chip the ECU and have them eliminate the emissions check for secondary 02 and fuel tank-vapor pump.



> You want to look for the 02+ ECU/harness due to it being a system that relies of a wideband 02 sensor in 'realtime'. It is a far superior system than any of the earlier stuff, your tuning options are much better as well for future upgrades.


The above comment is accurate but personally unless you are looking to break 280 HP the wideband is overkill for that vehicle (unless you are heading for the drags 
Good luck!


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## Fox22 (Jul 22, 2007)

After researching various options for engine management, I think for now I'm going to stick with the stock jury-rigged hardware to get it running. Once I've determined that the 1.8 is indeed the right match for this car I'll invest the extra cash in a standalone system. For now I'm just going to hide the Audi cluster, ecu and immobilizer junk in one of the storage areas under the hood. I'll just hook up my scanguage to the OBD port and mount it beside the speedo so I can monitor temperatures, RPM etc. Its just the cheapest, fastest and "most temporary" solution to just get the thing up and running. Besides- we need a baseline dyno run before upgrading the OEM hardware :laugh:

I'll try and post a few pics of the powerplant tonight.


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## MK3NORTH (Jul 14, 2004)

Fox22 said:


> Can you run a drive-by-wire engine with a reflashed ECU without the pedal and just hook up a cabled throttle body and TPS?


Just looking at your gas pedal, I'm sure you could make a braket to mount the DBW pedal at the top of the pedal cluster, under your "dash."


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## Fox22 (Jul 22, 2007)

Well here she is- I had to pull the clutch and flywheel to get it on the test stand. I havent had time to really look at it but whats the deal with this clutch is it some kind of multi-stage or dual-disk crazyness? I'm going to take a closer look but I might even be able to swap an iltis clutch disk right onto the audi pressure plate and flywheel. Aside from the spline count the disks are almost identical. It might be too thick to fit in the bellhousing though, in which case, I have already confirmed the Iltis flywheel will bolt right up. This weekend I'm going to try and strip some of the non-essentials off, take a peek at the harness and start cleaning it up. I've also ordered a manual off ebay so I'm keeping my fingers crossed that its half decent and can help me sort out whats what. 





































^^ My sentiments exactly!


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

That's a dual mass flywheel. Throw it in the scrap bin it's garbage. Your existing clutch set up will bolt right on without any hassles. All Mk1 to Mk4 inline 4 cylinder water cooled motors have the same bolt pattern on the crankshaft.


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## MikkiJayne (Jan 1, 2007)

Prof315 said:


> That's a dual mass flywheel. Throw it in the scrap bin it's garbage.


Definitely :thumbup:

Compare the end of the input shaft from the A4 and the Iltis. If you are lucky they will be the same size so you can keep the pilot bearing thats already there. There are a couple of different sizes that I've seen though.


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## koko5869 (Feb 15, 2006)

so in for this one. :thumbup::beer:


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## xray_boy (Jun 22, 2001)

You will never do it.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

xray_boy said:


> You will never do it.


 Why not? It's no worse than puttting a 1.8T in a rabbit or scirocco.


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## Fox22 (Jul 22, 2007)

hahaha no way man, theres no turning back now. It WILL happen!  You need to get rid of that diesel  

At the moment I'm just taking care of the two trucks I have right now- one needs a head job, the other a new CV shaft seal. Once those are done I'll be shuffling my storage arrangments and setting up a shop to start work on the body. My goal is to build the transmission over the winter and have the body complete by the new year. After that, the rest is pretty much just a mechanno set.


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## LT1M21Stingray (Sep 14, 2006)

MikkiJayne said:


> I'd be looking at converting it to 12V if at all possible .


 24-12 Volt DC-DC Voltage Reducer


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## xray_boy (Jun 22, 2001)

Prof315 said:


> Why not? It's no worse than puttting a 1.8T in a rabbit or scirocco.


 I know it's easy, I did it 10 years ago. That was my form of encouragement.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

xray_boy said:


> I know it's easy, I did it 10 years ago. That was my form of encouragement.


 You want a challenge.... try what I'm doing right now. 20/20t (ABA 20Vw/K03s hybrid) in a Corrado with a custom geared 02J and a beefed up minislip. Run by a Megasquirt 3/3X taking advantage of EVERYTHING..... VSS, A/C, Fans, Full sequential fuel and ignition, Electronic gear based boost control, VVT, Canister Purge....... And it sits on a coilover suspension with tubular lower A-Arms. The goal is the ultimate german touring coupe: speed, comfort, handling and good cruising fuel economy.


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## mattinbend (Oct 12, 2000)

Your off topic genius:facepalm:


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## franque (Jul 12, 2008)

Watching this thread with bated breath... I approve!


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## volkswjetta3 (Jan 25, 2008)

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

keep the post coming!


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## ert01 (Apr 2, 2004)

*heres mine will be out for spring*



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a lot of work didn't expect this much work lol


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## Rocco R16V (Oct 7, 2008)

very cool! :thumbup:


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## 1.8TRabbit (Nov 15, 2004)




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