# Best Brake Setup for the CC



## nasu (Apr 5, 2006)

Hi guys, 

I been having the 2010 cc 2.0 for 4 years now. I like the car a lot except the brakes as everyone else. Read about it, but could not find what I was looking for. I know some folks are going TTRS big brakes but for me that would mean to sell my set of tires and wheels and get new ones.. I rather sell the car and move on ... 

I am looking for the best non-OEM setup improvements from EBC Red, HAWs or any other. I am looking to change both front and rear rotors and pads, fluid and not so sure about the steel lines and the TyrolSport Brake Caliper Stiffening Kit... 

I changed the rear brakes rotors and pads OEM 2 years ago, I didn't feel any improvement... Still long ass pedal to grab the brakes and not powerful like BMW and other cars... I know the brake booster is not the same and it's designed different but I hear guys improving that feeling a lot. 

What did you guys purchase and did you find any improvement ?

Thanks.


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## Mr.Ragtop (Dec 17, 2015)

You can ungraded to the 4 motion brakes. Bigger, better than the 2.0 ones. Full bolt on but you can still use the factory 18" wheels.


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## nasu (Apr 5, 2006)

I was thinking about that, I have 17 on factory for winter and 18 Mallory for summer.


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## volks76 (Dec 8, 2004)

Buy a winter beater


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## [email protected] (Jun 11, 2014)

1. Hawk HPS or EBC Redstuff pads (along with a good set of vented rotors)
2. Stainless braided brake lines and good performance DOT 4 fluid
3. Tyrolsport caliper stiffening kit
4. Tyrolsport masterbracket

That should give you about a 30-40% decrease in braking distance and you'll have great pedal modulation and feel without changing the calipers.


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## nasu (Apr 5, 2006)

thank you any other folks with input on their good brake experience ?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> 1. Hawk HPS or EBC Redstuff pads (along with a good set of vented rotors)
> 2. Stainless braided brake lines and good performance DOT 4 fluid
> 3. Tyrolsport caliper stiffening kit
> 4. Tyrolsport masterbracket
> ...


Currently running this setup minus the master bracket on VR6 brakes. EBC reds are good for low dust. I like them better than Hawks for that. When they are cold they can take a bit of warming up.

The Tyrol sport stiffening kit is a must.


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## nasu (Apr 5, 2006)

thank you did The Tyrol sport stiffening kit really made a huge difference ?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

nasu said:


> thank you did The Tyrol sport stiffening kit really made a huge difference ?


Massive difference in both of my cars I've installed it in. Better bite, more progressive feel, and more even pad wear.

I just checked on the set in the CC after 50k miles and they look perfect. They will be going to my buddy when I swap to TTRS brakes.


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## faroodi (Feb 4, 2003)

Along the lines of the BBK TTRS kit mentioned by TheBurninator, will the GTI 6 kits fit our cars. ECS Tuning for example, does not list the CC as an option. If not, has anyone tried this Wilwood kit?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/152007723092?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Vendor website is here: http://site.revolutionbrake.com/index.html


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## [email protected] (Jun 11, 2014)

faroodi said:


> Along the lines of the BBK TTRS kit mentioned by TheBurninator, will the GTI 6 kits fit our cars. ECS Tuning for example, does not list the CC as an option. If not, has anyone tried this Wilwood kit?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/152007723092?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
> 
> Vendor website is here: http://site.revolutionbrake.com/index.html


You can run any brake kit designed for the Mk5/Mk6 as long as it mounts in the same position (front of the steering knuckle) as the factory brakes.
The problem is that many of the big brake kits out there are designed to mount to the back of the steering knuckle.
The steering knuckle on the Mk5/Mk6 is cast iron vs the aluminum ones that our cars got.
The mounting bosses that the caliper bolts go through are several MMs (10-12 IIRC) different in thickness, thus preventing you from using rear mounted calipers.

That being said, there are a limited number of big brake kit calipers that will work on the CC, including Stoptech.
The TTRS calipers (if you can find them anymore, I didn't see any at a good price on ebay) were one of the best bang for the buck upgrades you could get, and they perform quite well on the track provided you have good cooling.


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## SDgti1.8t2002 (Mar 25, 2002)

i am running stoptechs...328mm ST41 kit for about 3-4 months. keep in mind, i don't race or drive like i stole it everyday...

to me the OE brakes were not stopping as well as my MK4 1.8t. then again, the CC has more weight to it. and I have to use more of the engine to help slow me down, downshifting and such.

now with the stoptechs, its a night and day difference. initial bite is increased, meaning it will bite when you put pressure, took a few stops to get use to, muscle memory should kick in later. from what the tech told me, there is an increase in stopping power. i've had to do a couple emergency, step on the brakes hard due to traffic slowing really fast, yes it will stop when you want it to stop, only concern, peoples behind you with not so good brakes. brake fade? i have not experienced it yet, i daily the car, i have yet to take it to a canyon run. squeaky? only in the morning when the rotors/pads are cold.

i do not know if this will fit the 18" mallory wheels. I do not have that set anymore. I am currently running 19" neuspeed RSe102s, which are lighter than the mallorys, i believe the mallorys are 27lbs? and the neuspeeds are 20lbs. less rotational mass to stop. i also have a 5mm spacer in the front to get flush.

i went with slotted rotors, instead of cross drill or cross drilled and slotted. I did some research on this, from Engineering Explained on youtube, cross drilled could lead to cracking. but thats on the extreme level during racing. oh and brake dust is increased by alot.

good luck with what you decide.

yep, i should have went bigger...but that would mean another $1k to throw down. Why didn't i get the ttrs brakes, couldn't find any and if i did, i didn't know the conditions they were in or how abused they were. and brakes are seriously important to my life. =)


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## faroodi (Feb 4, 2003)

Looks awesome! Thanks for the insight!


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Seems like an expensive upgrade for what you got... And also should be no problem clearing stock 18's since my TT-RS brakes clear stock 18's with a spacer.

IMO the stock VR6 brakes with tyrolsport caliper slide pins and a quality pad will do just as well as that stoptech kit for the most part. And same rotor size roughly...


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## faroodi (Feb 4, 2003)

How much did you pick up the TTRS brakes for?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

faroodi said:


> How much did you pick up the TTRS brakes for?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm into them about 800 bucks after having to buy lines and brackets. opcorn:


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## faroodi (Feb 4, 2003)

Great price!


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## [email protected] (Jun 11, 2014)

Yeah, if you can still find them, the TT RS brakes really are one of the best brake setups for our cars.
The extra braking torque that you get from the huge rotors (370mm/14.5") is really nice.

The only downside that I've ever found with mine is aftermarket 18" wheel selection.
The rotor size is so huge that almost every 18" aftermarket wheel that I've tried to install ends up resting the barrel of the wheel on the top of the caliper.
Neuspeed wheels however, have no issues with fitment whatsoever.
Factory 18" wheels have no problems clearing, I've fitted several without any issues other than a few needing spacers to clear the face of the wheel, but that's about it.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Yeah, if you can still find them, the TT RS brakes really are one of the best brake setups for our cars.
> The extra braking torque that you get from the huge rotors (370mm/14.5") is really nice.
> 
> The only downside that I've ever found with mine is aftermarket 18" wheel selection.
> ...


Parts available new still and cheaper than a stoptech kit.

The issue I found with clearance on the stock 18's seems to be the wheel weight placement. Even with a spacer, if your wheel guy is sloppy, it ain't gonna work.

Whatever. Don't have to worry about it until after h2o when I swap out from the mulliners.

Charles, you still running stock MC or did you swap to the TT one? How's pedal distance/feel with yours?


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## faroodi (Feb 4, 2003)

You got yours new?


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## [email protected] (Jun 11, 2014)

TheBurninator said:


> Parts available new still and cheaper than a stoptech kit.
> 
> The issue I found with clearance on the stock 18's seems to be the wheel weight placement. Even with a spacer, if your wheel guy is sloppy, it ain't gonna work.
> 
> ...


I still have the stock MC on the car currently. Upgrading to the TT RS version is on my list of things to do.
I plan on installing the TyrolSport Masterbracket when I upgrade the MC.
Pedal feel is still very top of the pedal, with good modulation. I do have stainless steel lines, which are going to affect the pedal feel however.
Currently running Motul RBF600 for daily use, and RBF660 on the track. I have Hawk HPS pads installed for the street, but I plan on installing EBC Yellowstuff pads soon (they're actually not too noisy).
One of the reasons that I like the TTRS brakes more than aftermarket big brakes is that they do have much better modulation.
I hate how some aftermarket big brake kits make the braking more abrupt and apply too much pressure with only a small amount of input.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> I still have the stock MC on the car currently. Upgrading to the TT RS version is on my list of things to do.
> I plan on installing the TyrolSport Masterbracket when I upgrade the MC.
> Pedal feel is still very top of the pedal, with good modulation. I do have stainless steel lines, which are going to affect the pedal feel however.
> Currently running Motul RBF600 for daily use, and RBF660 on the track. I have Hawk HPS pads installed for the street, but I plan on installing EBC Yellowstuff pads soon (they're actually not too noisy).
> ...


FYI any Mk2 TT uses the same master :thumbup:

Im curious to see if the TyrolSport master bracket fits on a 3.6 car. Can't tell if it clears the air box or not. 

I'll be using stainless lines on mine as well, just waiting on Tyrolsport to ship them out.

I run ATE typ 200 on all of my cars. Been running EBC red's for pads on the CC, so I will continue to do so with the TT-RS brakes. 

Good to hear these still have good pedal feel and progressive modulation with the 23mm master.


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## [email protected] (Jun 11, 2014)

TheBurninator said:


> FYI any Mk2 TT uses the same master :thumbup:
> 
> Im curious to see if the TyrolSport master bracket fits on a 3.6 car. Can't tell if it clears the air box or not.
> 
> ...


Yeah, the ATE fluid is a good choice. I'm mostly going with the EBC yellows because the car is probably going to be used for more track days and less daily driving soon.
If I were going with a street pad, I would most certainly install the redstuff pads, they have really good initial bite and very low dust.

According to the Audi parts system there are two different master cylinders, though it doesn't list if there is a volume difference.

From '07-'10 - 8J1611021D
From '11-'15 - 8J1611021E

Audi doesn't list the "E" as a replacement revision for the "D" version. They could be the same volume-wise though for all I know. :beer:


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Yeah, the ATE fluid is a good choice. I'm mostly going with the EBC yellows because the car is probably going to be used for more track days and less daily driving soon.
> If I were going with a street pad, I would most certainly install the redstuff pads, they have really good initial bite and very low dust.
> 
> According to the Audi parts system there are two different master cylinders, though it doesn't list if there is a volume difference.
> ...


Going to be at H2o?

Just been using the ATE fluid for years. God I miss super blue for flushes. Been pretty impressed with the redstuff pads. Only time I have had issues with initial bite is on really cold mornings (20F or below). Even then its just back to stock stopping power for the first couple times hitting the brakes.

I've got E and F revisions according to ETKA. E covers all TT's. F was only specific to TTRS.

Both are 25.4MM :thumbup:


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## faroodi (Feb 4, 2003)

[email protected] said:


> I still have the stock MC on the car currently. Upgrading to the TT RS version is on my list of things to do.
> I plan on installing the TyrolSport Masterbracket when I upgrade the MC.
> Pedal feel is still very top of the pedal, with good modulation. I do have stainless steel lines, which are going to affect the pedal feel however.
> Currently running Motul RBF600 for daily use, and RBF660 on the track. I have Hawk HPS pads installed for the street, but I plan on installing EBC Yellowstuff pads soon (they're actually not too noisy).
> ...


Appreciate the feedback. Are the 2015/2016 TTS brakes the same as the older TTRS ones? Those also appear to be 4 piston.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

faroodi said:


> Appreciate the feedback. Are the 2015/2016 TTS brakes the same as the older TTRS ones? Those also appear to be 4 piston.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My guess is they are the same, unfortunately I don't have ETKA with those years.

They are a 4 pot brembo. IMO unless your car sees heavy track usage and you have an MC to back up a 6 pot setup, a 4 pot will probably do better. But there's many factors in that. Pad choice, lines, rotor diameter.


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## [email protected] (Jun 11, 2014)

TheBurninator said:


> Going to be at H2o?
> 
> Just been using the ATE fluid for years. God I miss super blue for flushes. Been pretty impressed with the redstuff pads. Only time I have had issues with initial bite is on really cold mornings (20F or below). Even then its just back to stock stopping power for the first couple times hitting the brakes.
> 
> ...


You are correct, both of the E and F revisions do show to be 25.4mm. 
I'm at home now so unfortunately I don't have access to ETKA right now, but looking the part up on any Audi parts website shows the D and related versions is actually 23.8mm.

Yeah, I wish they still sold the ATE super blue over here, stupid US regulations.

I'll be at H2Oi for sure (working both days), just trying to figure out if I'm bringing the CC or not.
Unfortunately I haven't had the time to get it to the body shop to get my R-Line front bumper painted, and the current bumper is a little rough.
It seems almost coincidental that I get the 4motion working and little dumb problems start popping up.
My oil pressure light started randomly coming on on the last trip I took in the car, ended up being just the sensor, but it still scared the crap out of me.
Then, my throttle body decided to throw a few random codes for being out of range and idled like crap, loaded basic settings, ran fine for a few days, then did it again, and now it's driving fine on it's own. :screwy:
They say problems come in threes, so we'll see what happens the next few weeks before H2Oi. :beer:


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> You are correct, both of the E and F revisions do show to be 25.4mm.
> I'm at home now so unfortunately I don't have access to ETKA right now, but looking the part up on any Audi parts website shows the D and related versions is actually 23.8mm.
> 
> Yeah, I wish they still sold the ATE super blue over here, stupid US regulations.
> ...


Interesting on the "D" revision. Must be for early Mk2 TT's.

Yeah I'm going to be cutting it close for h2o... My R-Line stuff and the car go into paint next Monday and I am supposed to leave the following Monday from Colorado to start driving out.

If you have time, stop by the Corrado GTG. I'll be there with my CC. Or just PM me and stop by my house. I'd like to check out your car. :thumbup:


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## [email protected] (Jun 11, 2014)

TheBurninator said:


> Interesting on the "D" revision. Must be for early Mk2 TT's.
> 
> Yeah I'm going to be cutting it close for h2o... My R-Line stuff and the car go into paint next Monday and I am supposed to leave the following Monday from Colorado to start driving out.
> 
> If you have time, stop by the Corrado GTG. I'll be there with my CC. Or just PM me and stop by my house. I'd like to check out your car. :thumbup:


All I gotta say is that's one long drive. 
I'll keep the Corrado GTG in mind, it's been awhile since I've hung out with some of those guys.
It's probably going to make me want another Corrado even more, never should have sold mine. :banghead:

The other thing I gotta be careful of if I do end up bringing the CC, my stupid custom exhaust. 
It's so freaking loud even when I'm just driving it normally. I really need to get around to instaling some mufflers.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> All I gotta say is that's one long drive.
> I'll keep the Corrado GTG in mind, it's been awhile since I've hung out with some of those guys.
> It's probably going to make me want another Corrado even more, never should have sold mine. :banghead:
> 
> ...


Haha, yeah its about 32-36 hours depending on what I run into along the way. This will be the second time the CC has been out to H2Oi. Probably the 5-6th time I have driven out from Denver for the show.

I feel ya on the exhaust thing. OCMD PD have been pretty relentless too the last few years. I wouldn't want to drive my GTI out there for that same reason. 

Back on the topic of brakes... Tyrolsport still hasn't sent out my brake lines. Charles, you guys have TT-RS front lines in stock? Or can you get a set to me by this weekend? #h2oiprep :laugh:


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## faroodi (Feb 4, 2003)

Speaking of the TTRS brakes - if one was to swap the MC, which one is recommended?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

faroodi said:


> Speaking of the TTRS brakes - if one was to swap the MC, which one is recommended?


8J1611021E - Stock TTRS MC, 25.4MM

Stock CC MC 23.xMM

Bolt on upgrade. :thumbup:


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## [email protected] (Jun 11, 2014)

TheBurninator said:


> Haha, yeah its about 32-36 hours depending on what I run into along the way. This will be the second time the CC has been out to H2Oi. Probably the 5-6th time I have driven out from Denver for the show.
> 
> I feel ya on the exhaust thing. OCMD PD have been pretty relentless too the last few years. I wouldn't want to drive my GTI out there for that same reason.
> 
> Back on the topic of brakes... Tyrolsport still hasn't sent out my brake lines. Charles, you guys have TT-RS front lines in stock? Or can you get a set to me by this weekend? #h2oiprep :laugh:


Check the PM I just sent you. :thumbup:


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## faroodi (Feb 4, 2003)

TheBurninator said:


> 8J1611021E - Stock TTRS MC, 25.4MM
> 
> Stock CC MC 23.xMM
> 
> Bolt on upgrade. :thumbup:





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## faroodi (Feb 4, 2003)

TheBurninator said:


> 8J1611021E - Stock TTRS MC, 25.4MM
> 
> Stock CC MC 23.xMM
> 
> Bolt on upgrade. :thumbup:


Would we need to swap anything else? The booster or reservoir etc?


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## [email protected] (Jun 11, 2014)

faroodi said:


> Would we need to swap anything else? The booster or reservoir etc?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Everything else is the same, you just need to swap the master cylinder. You can reuse all of the other parts. :thumbup:


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## faroodi (Feb 4, 2003)

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## nasu (Apr 5, 2006)

thanks guys for all your responses. Many things happened, got myself a BMW 335is 11' cabrio amazing brakes  haha but a day before that I purchased all new rotors cross ventilated ebc sport and red pads. 

So I start changing front and I noticed left hand side of the caliper carrier where those caliper bolts go were coming off hard, somebody forced them in when try to put them back no more hold. So I ordered a new carrier and all good pedal at idle huge difference, hold at top after that so for 4 years I had to deal with that...eh well. Now I also did a complete fluid change with ATE not much difference there. 

The rear. Oh well I have VCDS and for some reason I press the wrong button it pushes the piston of the caliper out ..fluid all over oh well I clean put it back all that with that wheel bleed that one alone air came out with the power bleeder pressure and I done the second wheel . 
Now it feels dam weird I hate the car even more lol. I need to drive this for winter and the BMW will have to stay parked due to so much snow. 

Question. After that line fluid out, the MC still never run empty to get air... I never bleeded yet the MC or the ABS. I do have the VCDS, how should I really go about bleeding this system well as now with all new brakes and the caliper carrier fixed I believe I can get a lot better than before pedal feel. 

If not I give up won't spend anymore money on this beautiful car..I am sorry ship it to Europe for a summer car when I go in vacation there and buy another BMW 5 series Xdrive and no more brake problems...
I had VW for over 13 years ,..Jettas, Passats etc beautiful and reliable cars ..I take good care of them..but when it comes to brakes ...I dont have much good to say about it, especially the automatic ones. The manual ones for some reason felt a lot better...maybe its's just me.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

nasu said:


> thanks guys for all your responses. Many things happened, got myself a BMW 335is 11' cabrio amazing brakes  haha but a day before that I purchased all new rotors cross ventilated ebc sport and red pads.
> 
> So I start changing front and I noticed left hand side of the caliper carrier where those caliper bolts go were coming off hard, somebody forced them in when try to put them back no more hold. So I ordered a new carrier and all good pedal at idle huge difference, hold at top after that so for 4 years I had to deal with that...eh well. Now I also did a complete fluid change with ATE not much difference there.
> 
> ...


So because you can't properly maintain your brakes and follow proper procedure it makes the car bad?

The CC forum kills me with stuff like this. A handful of brake threads, and too many threads complaining about how the car devalued after people drove it off the lot. FFS this forum needs to learn how to turn a wrench.


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## nasu (Apr 5, 2006)

u don't get it do you ? properly maintain a car... well buddy I do maintain my cars very well as I mentioned to you from the day once when I got it with new front brakes and I took it to dealer to flush the fluid and change the rear brake nothing has change still awesome bad pedal feel. Now I am trying to fix that spended a lot of time and money on doing that but even some of the guys with the TTRS BBK still have the pedal feel and travel so hope you get the point smartA$$


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## faroodi (Feb 4, 2003)

The brake feel with the TTRS BBK is a separate problem. You need the TTRS MC to solve that.


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## Stero1D (Aug 8, 2012)

TTRS Brakes is all you need 








With some


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

nasu said:


> u don't get it do you ? properly maintain a car... well buddy I do maintain my cars very well as I mentioned to you from the day once when I got it with new front brakes and I took it to dealer to flush the fluid and change the rear brake nothing has change still awesome bad pedal feel. Now I am trying to fix that spended a lot of time and money on doing that but even some of the guys with the TTRS BBK still have the pedal feel and travel so hope you get the point smartA$$


I understand it just fine. My car has great pedal feel. Pads, lines,and fluid choice do make a huge difference. ****ty VW pads aren't helping anything.

Pedal travel has a lot to do with the MC. If you're worried about that upgrade the MC. The dealer isn't going to do that for you. 

Better keep spending money.


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## unctucker (Aug 24, 2013)

TheBurninator said:


> I understand it just fine. My car has great pedal feel. Pads, lines,and fluid choice do make a huge difference. ****ty VW pads aren't helping anything.
> 
> Pedal travel has a lot to do with the MC. If you're worried about that upgrade the MC. The dealer isn't going to do that for you.
> 
> Better keep spending money.


LoL

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## faroodi (Feb 4, 2003)

Stero1D said:


> TTRS Brakes is all you need
> 
> 
> 
> ...





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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Love em


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## [email protected] (Jun 11, 2014)

3P0A0328 by Charles Strosnider, on Flickr

Yeah, definitely one of the nicest looking and performing brake kits for our cars. :beer:


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## faroodi (Feb 4, 2003)

Not a good photo but I just had mine installed today. Actual braking difference is huge. Excellent modulation but definitely more pedal travel - nothing alarming, just different than stock.










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## [email protected] (Jun 11, 2014)

faroodi said:


> Not a good photo but I just had mine installed today. Actual braking difference is huge. Excellent modulation but definitely more pedal travel - nothing alarming, just different than stock.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


While upgrading to the TTRS master cylinder is the best way to go to improve the pedal feel, just installing stainless lines will remove a lot of the pedal travel and give you much better feel.
The great modulation of these brakes is one of the reasons I like them more than aftermarket big brake kits, which tend to be more "grabby" and too sensitive to input for the street.


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## faroodi (Feb 4, 2003)

[email protected] said:


> While upgrading to the TTRS master cylinder is the best way to go to improve the pedal feel, just installing stainless lines will remove a lot of the pedal travel and give you much better feel.
> The great modulation of these brakes is one of the reasons I like them more than aftermarket big brake kits, which tend to be more "grabby" and too sensitive to input for the street.


I installed SS lines in the front and bled the system. Really up in air re: keeping as is or going for the MC swap - that sucker's not cheap!


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## Stero1D (Aug 8, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> While upgrading to the TTRS master cylinder is the best way to go to improve the pedal feel, just installing stainless lines will remove a lot of the pedal travel and give you much better feel.
> The great modulation of these brakes is one of the reasons I like them more than aftermarket big brake kits, which tend to be more "grabby" and too sensitive to input for the street.


Did u do ur MC?? 


How much it runs? 

I love the way my brakes feel, cant really complain about em...


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## faroodi (Feb 4, 2003)

Stero1D said:


> Did u do ur MC??
> 
> 
> How much it runs?
> ...


I think the part itself is $400 or so....


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

faroodi said:


> I think the part itself is $400 or so....
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


300...

Go bleed your system again might still have some air. Pedal feels great with the 23mm master

What pads did you go with?


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## faroodi (Feb 4, 2003)

Ok will do. New stock pads that came with the calipers.


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## faroodi (Feb 4, 2003)

Do you know the MC part # in case I decide to go that route? The only one I'm finding is the HSTUNING RS3 one..


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## faroodi (Feb 4, 2003)

Better pics https://www.facebook.com/speedlifemotorsport/posts/1120951804679696


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

faroodi said:


> Ok will do. New stock pads that came with the calipers.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Throw those pads in the trash. Go get some EBC reds. Try them before the MC swap 



faroodi said:


> Do you know the MC part # in case I decide to go that route? The only one I'm finding is the HSTUNING RS3 one..
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I posted it earlier on this page. You even quoted it...


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## faroodi (Feb 4, 2003)

I must be getting old lol


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

faroodi said:


> I must be getting old lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


:laugh: :laugh:

Let me know if your old eyes can't see it still


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## faroodi (Feb 4, 2003)

TheBurninator said:


> :laugh: :laugh:
> 
> Let me know if your old eyes can't see it still


Found it 


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## Stero1D (Aug 8, 2012)

Im old n lazy! 


Post it


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## faroodi (Feb 4, 2003)

LOL


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## Mr.Ragtop (Dec 17, 2015)

TheBurninator said:


> 8J1611021E - Stock TTRS MC, 25.4MM
> 
> Stock CC MC 23.xMM
> 
> Bolt on upgrade. :thumbup:


Here it is


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## Stero1D (Aug 8, 2012)

Mr.Ragtop said:


> Here it is


Da man!


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## Eurofication (Jul 10, 2013)

Charles or anyone else. I have been debating my brakes as well, and wondering if there was another option besides the TTRS. Before my CC I had an B6 A4 and the 17z and 18z calipers were popular for those, and from what I have been researching they should bolt right up to the CC. Does anyone know if this is true, and if they do would I need to upgrade my MC as well to slap them on the car. You can find them rather cheap now and are some good looking calipers as well.


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## [email protected] (Jun 11, 2014)

Eurofication said:


> Charles or anyone else. I have been debating my brakes as well, and wondering if there was another option besides the TTRS. Before my CC I had an B6 A4 and the 17z and 18z calipers were popular for those, and from what I have been researching they should bolt right up to the CC. Does anyone know if this is true, and if they do would I need to upgrade my MC as well to slap them on the car. You can find them rather cheap now and are some good looking calipers as well.


The 18z and 17z calipers will bolt up to our cars just like the Mk5 and Mk6.
However, due to the size and number of the pistons on the calipers (these were made for huge SUVs afterall), our master cylinder (or even the TTRS version) isn't able to completely fill these.
They will have a much squishier pedal with a significant amount of pedal travel in comparison to the TTRS brakes.

I explain it this way to people: 

If budget is a constraint, go with a good set of slotted rotors and EBC or Hawk pads for a decent 30% reduction in your braking zone.
If you'd like to upgrade your brake size, but are still a bit limited by budget, the 3.6 4motion/Golf R front brakes are great with just some pads.
If significantly improving the braking capability of your car is your goal, go with TTRS or an aftermarket big brake kit such as those from Stoptech.
If looks is your goal, but would like the added benefit of improving your stopping distance a bit, go with any multi-piston caliper (17z/18z) bigger than stock.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> The 18z and 17z calipers will bolt up to our cars just like the Mk5 and Mk6.
> However, due to the size and number of the pistons on the calipers (these were made for huge SUVs afterall), our master cylinder (or even the TTRS version) isn't able to completely fill these.
> They will have a much squishier pedal with a significant amount of pedal travel in comparison to the TTRS brakes.
> 
> ...


What Charles said is a great bit of info. Just something to add to this, you are going to run out of tire to grip before you get a reduced stopping distance from say a set of 17z calipers. Even the TT-RS setup for that matter. ABS will kick in long before those brakes run out of stopping power. I was running out of grip on 3.6 4motion brakes with EBC Reds.

The other thing to consider is cost of maintenance. Yeah, you can cough up the money now for the kit, but what about later when you just need to do a basic brake job and its costing you $600 in parts instead of $200.

With the 17z/18z setups and the longer pedal travel, you have to consider what you will do in a panic situation as well. Is it going to lock the wheel when you have an emergency situation and need to stop quickly, but you jab the brake too hard because there wasn't enough pedal feel. Front end locks up and you're sitting in someone else' back seat.

There has to be a balance between multiple things when considering larger brakes. Are they actually an improvement over stock in every way is the first thing I would look at.


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## faroodi (Feb 4, 2003)

TheBurninator said:


> Throw those pads in the trash. Go get some EBC reds. Try them before the MC ...


Installed the EBC Redstuff pads yesterday - huge difference in bite over the stock pads. Great recommendation. 



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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

faroodi said:


> Installed the EBC Redstuff pads yesterday - huge difference in bite over the stock pads. Great recommendation.


:thumbup: Glad you like them. Pads can make or break (hah pun intended) a proper brake setup.

Make sure you give those pads a proper bed in. They have a lot of bite when they are warmed up.


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## faroodi (Feb 4, 2003)

Anyone know if 19 inch Savannahs will clear the TTRS brakes?


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## [email protected] (Jun 11, 2014)

faroodi said:


> Anyone know if 19 inch Savannahs will clear the TTRS brakes?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You might need a spacer, but they will clear them vertically. 
I run OEM VW 18" Samarkand wheels in the winter and they clear the calipers after creatively arranging the wheel weights and using a pair of 13mm spacers.


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## faroodi (Feb 4, 2003)

[email protected] said:


> You might need a spacer, but they will clear them vertically.
> I run OEM VW 18" Samarkand wheels in the winter and they clear the calipers after creatively arranging the wheel weights and using a pair of 13mm spacers.


Thanks - what offset would I need with 19x8.5 to clear?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

faroodi said:


> Thanks - what offset would I need with 19x8.5 to clear?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That is dependent on the spoke design. It could theoretically be perfect but the spoke may hit. 

9's ET38 clear just fine. That gives you a figure to work with if you can do the math


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## faroodi (Feb 4, 2003)

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