# Aftermarket vs Genuine/Bosch throttle body



## egovreau (Nov 2, 2012)

Pretty sure I need a throttle body assembly for an AZG 2.0L engine. Tried a used one a year ago which seems to have given up as already. Bosch/Genuine units start at $270 and go up from there ($740 on Amazon).

Now aftermarket units are less than that. Is there a particular brand that seems to work best? Or is OEM really the way to go?

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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Hmmm, that is a tough call; I just installed a chinese knockoff on a 1.8T Audi A4 with cable control. The first one, had quality control problems with the butterfly valve sticking. Had it warranted and the next one worked ok and went through the alignment process fine. Of course the question is; for how long and will it fail prematurely? This is a open question on all parts these days. If money is particularly tight; there are tons of used parts for the 2.0L out there and you could probably find a good used one for less. I always err on the side of oem; if I can afford the price and am keeping the vehicle long term. Another option is, FCPEURO.com is now offering a lifetime warranty on ALL their parts, so that would back up your part if you purchased it from them and are worried about it falling down the road. 

Aside from all that; what problems are you experiencing? I have seen where no matter what I did; the throttle body I was working with would not go through the VCDS alignment procedure, a new one fixed that. Then, we have seen allot of intermittent connectivity problems with the wiring harnesses and the plugs to the throttle body. New terminal ends and plug; were the fix for that. If you see this as a potential issue; read this thread for more info: http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-lit...-resolved.html#/forumsite/20963/topics/124170

Let us know what problems you have been struggling with and we can go from there. Thanks!


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## egovreau (Nov 2, 2012)

I received the car with a CEL...erratic idle. It wouldn't hunt, but would cycle between 800 and 1100 RPM, idling at each from 5-15 seconds. 

I checked codes. There were a bunch of throttle sensor codes. I saved them off and cleared them. So far, the car is behaving. 

One thing I did notice is that the rev on the installed throttle is D, but most of the parts houses list the replacement as being a Q. 

I'll have to investigate further...after I work through some transmission woes. 

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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Loss of throttle body settings from charging or battery issues are not uncommon; I would also, go ahead, clean the throttle body and go through doing a throttle body alignment, a new plug/terminal ends are cheap. If you still have your original throttle body; you might try cleaning both of them, installing them and see if they act them same. This could potentially show; if it is a specific throttle body is the problem or if you might have a wiring or other issue, causing the problem. I would do those things first; before, spending the money on a new throttle body; cleaning and a "tba" can solve, allot of typical problems people have. :wave:

Here is a DIY on a 2.0L Jetta; which is similar to the new beetle: 

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...y_Cleaning/48-FUEL-Throttle_Body_Cleaning.htm

Looking online; this seems to be the plug/wire repair kit but I would confirm by looking at the part # on your original plug or by VIN #: 

Throttle Body Pigtail Connector for Audi TT VW Jetta Golf MK4 Beetle VW part # 1J0973713

ebay: 

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...3.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.TRS0&_nkw=1J0973713&_sacat=0

https://www.ebay.com/i/253259464353?chn=ps

There seems to be many places selling these online; I have also gone to my local VW dealer and gotten new plugs and separate repair terminal wires as well.


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## egovreau (Nov 2, 2012)

It adapted just fine and after clearing codes, has run fine as well. I'll still check the wires to see if they might be there problem. 

One thing I've noticed, ETKA lists the part as 06A133062Q, but a D throttle is installed. 

Most of the places that sell either version list both as alternate parts. Any one have an idea as to what the difference is?

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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Good question on the throttle body; vw parts get revised over the years and after 18 years, it is not surprising that the suffix has changed (the suffix usually denotes the revision of the part). 

Looking at ECS TUNING's site; gives us a bit of clue about the revision issue: This is what was listed on the genuine vw part page: NOTE: For vehicles with AVH, AZG, or BBW engine code only. _*"Previous Revisions 06A133062D"*_

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/throttle-body-assembly/06a133062q/

So, that would go along with the idea; of the suffix denoting the revision, "D" was the older version and now the current version is "Q". The same part number is listed for your AZG engine code; so, that is another confirmation of the part number but I always try to confirm with ETKA and your VIN #. 

A trick I use allot in my vw parts research online; is get the part number off my old part and search on ecs tuning's site or vw parts site and the latest revision of the part, will typically pop up, replacing the old part number! I hope this helps! eace:

ecstuning.com

https://parts.vw.com/

If you haven't cleaned your throttle body; I definitely recommend it, the engine will run really smooth and it makes a difference, after a clean/alignment. As for the plug terminal ends; we have noticed, after many years the connectivity tension of the terminal ends gets loose and that is why many have trouble codes or cannot align their throttle body. The online plugs/wire repair kits are cheap and are a affordable repair of the problem. Let us know how things go moving forward and if you have any more issues! Thanks! :wave:


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