# mil light



## minnvw (Oct 16, 2006)

wifey just called the mil light was on steady, any one know anything bout this? 10k on it, was runnin ruff yesterday morn when i started it grrr this is gettin on my case


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## owr084 (Nov 15, 2004)

*Re: mil light (minnvw)*

The most obvioous thing to check is the gas cap. Did you fuel it yesterday? If so, did you tightened down the cap until it clicked at least twice?
If the fuel cap is not tightened down, the ECU will turn on the mil light because the fuel system needs to be a closed loop and not venting to the outside.
You can also go to an Autozone andhave them read the codes for free.
It's because of situtations like this that I am glad I have a VAG-COM


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## minnvw (Oct 16, 2006)

ty owr, i called her told her to check that first,well its all on warrenty do id take it back to vw, but can you tell me more about the vag com you mentioned? ty again doug


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## ialonso (Aug 26, 2006)

I wouldn't freak out about it just yet. Like owr084 said, free answer at Autozone on what is going on... Check your gas cap for sure, as it s a very common source of this issue. Let us know what you fidn out.


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## owr084 (Nov 15, 2004)

*Re: (minnvw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *minnvw* »_ty owr, i called her told her to check that first,well its all on warrenty do id take it back to vw, but can you tell me more about the vag com you mentioned? ty again doug

http://www.ross-tech.com It is a combination of a diagnostic cable and the software that runs on a windows based PC. The cable plugs into the car's OBD-II port and the laptop (either serial or USB). You can then query just about any module in the car, reset mils, change parameters (seatbelt chime, etc.) and a whole lot more. 
The Eos requires a cable that can read the CAN bus (the network that ties all your cars modules together). Don't be tempted by cheap knockoffs on ebay that use the older shareware versions of the software.
The best way to go is with the original. Expensive? Yes. Worth it? Definitely. How much would you have paid to solve your problem quickly and make your wife happy...







Even if your car is under warranty, it still costs you your time (and brownie points with the wife) to get it in and then the hassle of waiting for it. Either $249 for the microCAN which will only do CAN equipped VW/Audis/Seats/etc or $329/$349 for a (serial/usb) cable that will work on any VW family product since about 1990 on. 
One more hint - if you do get one and then find a code that means it does need to go in to the dealer, DON'T CLEAR IT. I did that for a buddy on his Audi and so the dealer charged him for the diagnostic time and told him they found no codes









_Modified by owr084 at 1:04 PM 2-7-2007_

_Modified by owr084 at 1:09 PM 2-7-2007_


_Modified by owr084 at 1:15 PM 2-7-2007_


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## minnvw (Oct 16, 2006)

she stopped at the dealer only took them half hour,, they called it a " spuratic misfire"? does that make any sense? like i said it was sure runin ruff , kinda looping yesterdaay morning, she did tell me the cap on her eos doesnt click it just turns to tight? ty owr for all that infor on reading the codes, interesting to say the least, but you know the reason i buy a new car i so i dont have to repair it, or work on it, so i wont be getting any equipment to read them, with a warrenty thats their job, ty doug


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## owr084 (Nov 15, 2004)

*Re: (minnvw)*

A sporadic misfire is can easily be triggered by a hard start in colder weather. In other words, if you start the car and it doesn't catch right away so you turn it off and try a restart - that can cause a misfire code to be set.


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## minnvw (Oct 16, 2006)

is that what prolly did it? well we got the cold weather up here-36F monday morn, i keep it in a unheated garage tho, i might have to put the heating pad on mommas little eos? these things must be tempermental ,, i know my ole yotas were tough oh well , prayin for warm weather now ha


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## owr084 (Nov 15, 2004)

*Re: (minnvw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *minnvw* »_is that what prolly did it? well we got the cold weather up here-36F monday morn, i keep it in a unheated garage tho, i might have to put the heating pad on mommas little eos? these things must be tempermental ,, i know my ole yotas were tough oh well , prayin for warm weather now ha

Only -36F, heck, I'd be tempermental too at that temperature


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: mil light (minnvw)*

Doug:
Some background information for you about warning lights:
Most new Volkswagens have two different engine related warning lights - one is called a "Check Engine Light" (CEL) and one is called an "Electronic Power Control" (EPC light). The term 'MIL' (Malfunction Identification Light) might be out of date, something from back in the 1990s.
The CEL is, for the most part, an emissions control warning light. Your federal government dictates when that light comes on, not Volkswagen. It will illuminate if the gas cap is loose, or if the engine encounters a few misfires, or for many other emission-related reasons, many of which are not 'mission critical' so far as function of the car is concerned.
Emission control regulations require that a gas tank be airtight, to ensure that it does not release any gasoline vapours. To test this, most cars use a small air pump to very slightly pressurize the gas tank, then they monitor the tank to ensure that there is no loss of pressure. However - during very cold weather conditions, the system can sometimes get confused. If you park the car in a warm garage, then take it out and put some fuel in the tank, then leave it outside, the shrinkage caused by the air in the tank cooling can sometimes confuse the pressure sensor - hence a CEL. Or, if you get a few misfires caused by a tankload of crappy fuel, the light comes on.
If all else appears to be OK, you might want to just wait until you have put a few more driving cycles on the car, and see if the light goes out on its own. In some cases, if the problem has not repeated again within 'x' number of additional cycles, the light goes out by itself.
At the same time, take a look in the owner manual and see if your car has two different engine lights - one for CEL (emissions), and one for EPC (engine is sick and needs service).
Michael


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## minnvw (Oct 16, 2006)

michael, thanks for explaining the different lights,,, i recived the info from my wife, guess it was a small engine shaped icon, and text MIL light were both on ,yes ill do some readin in om im sure its all cold weather related been misrable up here latley wow up to 0 now,, im gonna do some more isopropitol,, when she gets home, thanks again doug


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## ElkhornVDub (Jun 4, 2003)

*Re: mil light (PanEuropean)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PanEuropean* »_Doug:
Some background information for you about warning lights:
Most new Volkswagens have two different engine related warning lights - one is called a "Check Engine Light" (CEL) and one is called an "Electronic Power Control" (EPC light). The term 'MIL' (Malfunction Identification Light) might be out of date, something from back in the 1990s.
The CEL is, for the most part, an emissions control warning light. Your federal government dictates when that light comes on, not Volkswagen. It will illuminate if the gas cap is loose, or if the engine encounters a few misfires, or for many other emission-related reasons, many of which are not 'mission critical' so far as function of the car is concerned.
Emission control regulations require that a gas tank be airtight, to ensure that it does not release any gasoline vapours. To test this, most cars use a small air pump to very slightly pressurize the gas tank, then they monitor the tank to ensure that there is no loss of pressure. However - during very cold weather conditions, the system can sometimes get confused. If you park the car in a warm garage, then take it out and put some fuel in the tank, then leave it outside, the shrinkage caused by the air in the tank cooling can sometimes confuse the pressure sensor - hence a CEL. Or, if you get a few misfires caused by a tankload of crappy fuel, the light comes on.
If all else appears to be OK, you might want to just wait until you have put a few more driving cycles on the car, and see if the light goes out on its own. In some cases, if the problem has not repeated again within 'x' number of additional cycles, the light goes out by itself.
At the same time, take a look in the owner manual and see if your car has two different engine lights - one for CEL (emissions), and one for EPC (engine is sick and needs service).
Michael

Terrific write-up. This should be a sticky or something. We've noticed the new 2.0T throws a few codes in the cold, probably due to the FSI injection. It's really not a biggie... wow, -36F? That's freakin' cold, Mr. Bigglesworth!


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## minnvw (Oct 16, 2006)

mr biggles, yes pan sure does a nice job on his posts, with alota research behind them, very helpful,, The dealer in twin cities that reset it, said ya, if it happens again theyd dig deeper into the problem, but yah this cold brings out the worst, first car ive had with direct injection, so its new to me, im suprised they might reset them selfs? after driving a while? but hey thats great if they do


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## owr084 (Nov 15, 2004)

*Re: (minnvw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *minnvw* »_mr biggles, yes pan sure does a nice job on his posts, with alota research behind them, very helpful,, The dealer in twin cities that reset it, said ya, if it happens again theyd dig deeper into the problem, but yah this cold brings out the worst, first car ive had with direct injection, so its new to me, im suprised they might reset them selfs? after driving a while? but hey thats great if they do

Are either of you touching the accelerator peddle while starting the car? That's a big no-no and can cause the misfire problem. It is best to let the car determine how much fuel it needs to start. Giving it gas while it is trying to start will only mess it up. Trust the computer


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## vweosdriver (Oct 30, 2006)

*Re: (minnvw)*

The cap on my Eos clicks one time when turned all the way to the right. I bet her's does too.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (vweosdriver)*

I think the key point to remember here is this: When a modern vehicle is exposed to low temperatures that are significantly below the range that the vehicle is normally operated in, you encounter the risk of getting warning messages that are triggered by the sudden temperature drop, not by any underlying fault in the vehicle.
In other words, you could evaluate two identical vehicles (Eos, Phaeton, Chevrolet, it doesn't matter) - one based in Florida and one based on the North Slope of Alaska - and both would be totally trouble-free in their normal range of operating temperatures. But, if you air-freighted the Florida car up to the North Slope, you would get quite a flurry of warning messages (CEL, tire pressure warnings, low coolant level warnings, etc.) during the first week of operation, and these would not go away until you addressed the 'shrinkage' of the various fluids and gases that caused the warning messages.
Strangely enough, the problem doesn't seem to happen going in the other direction - if you took the Alaska car to Florida, it is unlikely that you would see any warning messages at all, although your tire pressures might be a bit higher than spec, and your coolant level might be a bit higher than spec.
Moral of the story: Be patient with the car during cold snaps when the temperatures plunge to far below the normal range for your area. Chances are that you just need to add a bit of fluid, or air, or just wait until the temperature returns to what is normal for your area.
Michael


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## just4fun (Oct 29, 2006)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PanEuropean* »_Strangely enough, the problem doesn't seem to happen going in the other direction - Michael

That's not so strange.... if you took me from nice warm Florida to the Frozen wasteland of Alberta, I'd whine, snivel, complain, and all other sorts of warning signals about how unhappy I was.
Take me from the Frozen Wasteland of Alberta, and fly me down to Florida..... I'm drinkin' rum and fresh squeezed orange juice on the front nine, no complaints, happy as a lark.
Makes perfect sense to me.
Kevin


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (just4fun)*

Obviously these cars are more sophisticated than we give them credit for.


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## trampdog (Jan 7, 2007)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PanEuropean* »_Obviously these cars are more sophisticated than we give them credit for.









Sophisticated is the wrong word. Temprimental is more like it.
What ever happened to cold weather testing ?
Are we only supposed to drive within our "home county/state/country ?
When I go on my winter touring excursion to europe , does this mean that I can expect to see warning lights that are not genuine, but confused signals because it is cold.
How am I supposed to know which warning light to trust ?








Paul..


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (trampdog)*

Paul:
Vehicles will perform fine in cold weather, temperate weather, or hot weather. If you encounter abnormally cold conditions (such is the case in North America this week - or even in the UK, witness the snow in London today), various gases and liquids in the vehicle will shrink. When this happens, you will get warnings.
We have already discussed several different causes, however, I will try to explain to you why these warnings are not shortcomings of the vehicle:
*1) CEL light: * In North America, the car checks the integrity of the fuel tank to ensure that there are no vapour leaks. If someone takes a car from a warm environment (their garage) out into an abnormally cold environment (a winter cold snap), takes the gas cap off, adds fuel, and puts the gas cap back on, the remaining warm air in the tank will shrink as it normalizes to the prevailing outside air temperature, and this can trigger an alert that there is a problem with the fuel tank vapour control system. This problem will generally NOT happen as long as the gas cap is not opened whilst the air in the tank is cooling to ambient temperature.
*2) Coolant Level: * If your car is filled with coolant to the appropriate level for typical temperatures in your region (let's say 15°C), and the temperature then drops to -20°C, the coolant will shrink. This will trigger a low coolant level warning. This is a truthful warning.
*3) Tire Pressure: * If tires are filled to the correct pressure for for typical temperatures in your region (let's say 15°C), and the temperature then drops to -20°C, the air (the 'gas') in the tires will shrink. This will result in a decrease in the differential pressure between what is inside the tire and what prevails around the tire. Thus, you may get a low tire pressure warning. This is a truthful warning.
There is a pattern here, and the pattern is this: The cause of the problem is not the vehicle, it is the various fluids and gases inside the vehicle contracting (shrinking) as a result of abnormally cold conditions. If you normalize the quantity of fluids and gases to the prevailing temperature, you no longer have any warning messages.
Please let me know what part of this explanation is not clear to you.
Michael


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## trampdog (Jan 7, 2007)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PanEuropean* »_Paul:
Vehicles will perform fine in cold weather, temperate weather, or hot weather. If you encounter abnormally cold conditions (such is the case in North America this week - or even in the UK, witness the snow in London today), various gases and liquids in the vehicle will shrink. When this happens, you will get warnings.
We have already discussed several different causes, however, I will try to explain to you why these warnings are not shortcomings of the vehicle:
*1) CEL light: * In North America, the car checks the integrity of the fuel tank to ensure that there are no vapour leaks. If someone takes a car from a warm environment (their garage) out into an abnormally cold environment (a winter cold snap), takes the gas cap off, adds fuel, and puts the gas cap back on, the remaining warm air in the tank will shrink as it normalizes to the prevailing outside air temperature, and this can trigger an alert that there is a problem with the fuel tank vapour control system. This problem will generally NOT happen as long as the gas cap is not opened whilst the air in the tank is cooling to ambient temperature.
*2) Coolant Level: * If your car is filled with coolant to the appropriate level for typical temperatures in your region (let's say 15°C), and the temperature then drops to -20°C, the coolant will shrink. This will trigger a low coolant level warning. This is a truthful warning.
*3) Tire Pressure: * If tires are filled to the correct pressure for for typical temperatures in your region (let's say 15°C), and the temperature then drops to -20°C, the air (the 'gas') in the tires will shrink. This will result in a decrease in the differential pressure between what is inside the tire and what prevails around the tire. Thus, you may get a low tire pressure warning. This is a truthful warning.
There is a pattern here, and the pattern is this: The cause of the problem is not the vehicle, it is the various fluids and gases inside the vehicle contracting (shrinking) as a result of abnormally cold conditions. If you normalize the quantity of fluids and gases to the prevailing temperature, you no longer have any warning messages.
Please let me know what part of this explanation is not clear to you.
Michael

Thanks for taking the time to explain http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
but if for example the cooling level warning comes on, and I then top it up so that i can drive away without causing damage to my car, then presumably when the temperature rises again, then I would have too much coolant in the system.
Would this not cause another alarm ?
Also, how do i then remove the coolant to obtain the correct level?
Topping up is easier than removal.
I am not trying to be awkard, it just seems that if warning settings are that sensitive/precise then are they of any real value.
Paul..


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## minnvw (Oct 16, 2006)

*Re: (trampdog)*

paul most vehicles have a exspansion tank for the coolent, so there is some leaway there as far as hot and cold, as long as your inbetween the two marks your ok, as far as havin too MUCH coolant, there is a over flow buit in to that tank , so no need to worry bout that, i personaly havent had to top off my coolant , i do know cold air will drop your tire pressure on all vehicles that happens, i think this gas deal is just a " flook" ill keep you posted, no i havent "pumped" a gas pedal since the old days of carbs, 20yrs ago, i broke that cold weather habit, doug


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (trampdog)*


_Quote, originally posted by *trampdog* »_I am not trying to be awkward, it just seems that if warning settings are that sensitive/precise then are they of any real value.


Hello Paul:
Many of the warning and annunciator systems on modern vehicles didn't exist 10 or 15 years ago, however, the changes to system status that these warnings or annunciators report have been taking place since the first automobiles were built 100 years ago.
The result is that we are now far better informed about the status of systems in our vehicles. 99% of the time, these warning or annunciator systems work as intended, and only provide us with alerts when a situation exists that requires us to take some corrective action.
The other 1% of the time, we get warnings as a result of 'abnormal operating conditions', rather than as a result of problems with the vehicle. Sudden and extreme drops in ambient temperature are abnormal in any environment, and this whole discussion has focused on warnings that can arise as a result of rapid (e.g. overnight) and extreme (greater than normal for any geographic area) temperature drops.
One of the primary objectives of this forum is to share information about how and why systems work, so that vehicle owners better understand what is going on and can then make appropriate, well-educated decisions about how to proceed when they encounter something unusual, whether that 'unusual' item is extreme cold weather, or a warning message that is caused by extreme cold weather.
Hopefully the information presented here will allow you to use your own best judgement, your own discretion, and your ability to collect and synthesize information to make the best decision when you encounter what appears to you to be an anomalous indication or warning message. Let me give you an example of what I mean: I fly aircraft for a living. Aircraft are equipped with a terrain detection and warning system that advises the pilot if the aircraft is proceeding on a path that could result in a conflict with terrain. If I am landing at London City airport on a nice sunny day, and I get a 'terrain warning' message as a result of my rapid rate of descent (necessary to get into this airport, which has a 6° glideslope), what should I do:
*a)* Complain about it on the Boeing forum?
*b)* Pull up, go around, try the approach again, get the same warning again, and eventually give up and return to where I came from?
*c)* Recognize that the warning is a result of unusual operating conditions (the 6° glideslope), confirm by looking out the window that I am not going to hit anything except the touchdown zone of the runway, and then make a decision to proceed as normal?
I suspect you will agree that the most appropriate choice is c). The same concept applies to coolant warnings, tire pressure warnings, and CEL warnings caused by rapid onset of unusually cold weather conditions that you do not expect will persist longer than a few days.
Michael


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## _Rick_V_ (Jan 21, 2007)

*Re: (minnvw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *minnvw* »_is that what prolly did it? well we got the cold weather up here-36F monday morn, i keep it in a unheated garage tho, i might have to put the heating pad on mommas little eos? these things must be tempermental ,, i know my ole yotas were tough oh well , prayin for warm weather now ha


I bet your ole Toyota might be an *old* toyota! LOL! The older cars definitely don't have the emission sensors like the new cars. My wife drives a Volvo S40, and every winter if it gets really, really cold; her "check engine" light comes on. Took it in a couple times when it was brand new and was basically told the same thing PanEuropean wrote up. They said a lot of newer cars, foreign and domestic, have this issue (non-issue). 
Now, we just wait it out, and it goes out on it's own after a few days (err... cycles, I guess).
-Rick


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## minnvw (Oct 16, 2006)

*Re: (vweosdriver)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vweosdriver* »_The cap on my Eos clicks one time when turned all the way to the right. I bet her's does too.
 yes vweos,, her cap does click when turned hard to the right,,i checked that out, and it even says on the cap it may cause a MIL light if not turned til it clicks,, im gonna bet that thats what happened, it takes a good twist to do that and she just doesnt have the strength sometimes needed,, we should have it figured out by spring ha


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## trampdog (Jan 7, 2007)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*

Hi Michael, thanks again for the explanation, and I agree with you on answer "C". I too would want the plane to land.
Since you mentioned flying, then is the incident with Helios Flight 522 in August 2005 not an example of an alarm message that was confusing.
My point is that I only want genuine aalrms/messages, not ones that spuriously appear, only to then be told by the garage and others that its ok to ignore it.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (trampdog)*


_Quote, originally posted by *trampdog* »_My point is that I only want genuine aalrms/messages, not ones that spuriously appear, only to then be told by the garage and others that its ok to ignore it.

That is an unrealistic expectation. If I can't be assured that the a $50 million dollar Boeing Business Jet will never generate a spurious warning message, it's damned unlikely that you can be assured that a $30,000 car will never generate one.
Adjust your expectations to match the reality of both the marketplace and prevailing technology.
Michael


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## trampdog (Jan 7, 2007)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PanEuropean* »_
That is an unrealistic expectation. If I can't be assured that the a $50 million dollar Boeing Business Jet will never generate a spurious warning message, it's damned unlikely that you can be assured that a $30,000 car will never generate one.
Adjust your expectations to match the reality of both the marketplace and prevailing technology.
Michael

My expectations of a car that cost £26000 or approx $50600 (at todays exchange rate) is that it starts when i tiurn the key and then performs faultlessly, or if faults do happen, then they are genuine and dealt with promptly by the manufacturer or the manufacturers agent, ie the dealer.
Not to be told "oh, thats just a feature " or "we will fix it at 1st service interval" etc


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (trampdog)*

Paul:
You might enjoy this video: Yorkshire Airlines.
Michael


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## mark_d_drake (Aug 17, 2006)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*

I Just spilled by coffee all over the kitchen floor.. Priceless..


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## minnvw (Oct 16, 2006)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*

michael, ha good one,, that confirms where that blue ice is coming from, or is it brown ice? ha doug


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## trampdog (Jan 7, 2007)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*

Eh up duck (Yorkshire term of greeting)
Great Video. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I saw in on Sky TV sometime last week.
How did you know I was from Yorkshire (Gods County) ?
Does my accent show up in my typing ?


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## GurnyGub (Nov 21, 2006)

Nay lad,
Like Yorkshire terrier tha dun't give oop when tha'as a bite!
John


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## NaustinJ (May 19, 2006)

*Re: mil light (minnvw)*

My eos has 3500 miles on it. On my way home from work today I stopped to get some gas, after starting home again about a mile out the yellow MIL light came on. Now I had read this post before and i made sure my cap was tight, I stopped to even double check it. No luck.
1) I live in LA.... not -367 degrees here.
2) Is the yellow MIL light a smart light, or will it just stay lit if it is triggered until reset?
The manual is really vague about what triggers a yellow MIl light, at least it is not the red one.
Any thoughts?


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## minnvw (Oct 16, 2006)

*Re: mil light (NaustinJ)*

naustin,, its not real serious unless its blinking,, i do think my problem was related to not clickin the gas cap, you have to go past tight then it clicks and kind of bounces back to left, the garage just reset it and said if it does it a gain theyd trace it more? i think i did read they would reset thems selfs after a few positve recycles? doug


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: mil light (NaustinJ)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NaustinJ* »_The manual is really vague about what triggers a yellow MIl light, at least it is not the red one. Any thoughts?

Hi Naustin:
There are two annunciator lights in the instrument cluster that relate to the engine. One is the CEL (Check Engine Light) - this announces that the emission control system either does not meet, or at some time in the past has not met, federal emission specifications. As discussed earlier, it is the government that sets the criteria that illuminates this light, not the car manufacturers. This light can be triggered by something as minor as a bad lot of gasoline or a loose gas cap (or, vacuum in the tank as a result of sudden cold weather). In some cases, the CEL will clear itself following a one-time event if the event does not repeat during a subsequent number of start and drive cycles.
So, don't go rushing to the dealer 'at the drop of a hat' if you get a CEL light. However, if it is on continuously for a significant number of driving cycles (say, 10 or more) - then you might want to ask your dealer to poll the car's fault memory with a diagnostic scan tool to determine why the light came on. Anytime this light comes on, the car records the reason why. 
The other light is the EPC (electronic power control) light. If this light comes on, it means there are problems with the engine electronic power control system that need maintenance attention. In rare cases, this light might come on once, then go out if you turn the car off and start it again. But, if the light persists across start cycles, you really should take it to the dealership for attention.
The owners manual does describe both these lights in some detail in section 3.2.
Michael


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## NaustinJ (May 19, 2006)

*Re: mil light (NaustinJ)*

Sorry for the delay in geeing back on this, the light began going on and off. Drive to the bank, on, drive to the grocery store, off, drive to work on. Called pacific VW and they said take it in. Also noticed in 1 day I used half a tank of gas going from home to LAX twice and it was running a little rough and sounding louder than normal. Started averaging about 11 MPG.
Turns out there was a faulty fuel pressure sensor, apparently it never really worked right but began really failing triggering the light. That explains the drop in MPG. Drove home that night and it felt like a different car. I did not buy my car at Pacific, but it is only dealer in LA I will ever take my car to. The manager called me Friday morning and apologized that I had to bring in my car with 3500 miles... wow.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: mil light (NaustinJ)*

Hi Nathan:
Thanks for getting back to us with the findings on your CEL light - the information you provided will be very useful to others who might come here seeking a solution in the future.
Michael


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