# Final Solution For Headlight Lenses!!



## 1.8 skeet skeet (Aug 11, 2004)

I have figured out the key to our Headlights! It takes a **** load of time and work but the outcome is amazing! I will have pics and a write up in about thirty minutes :thumbup:


----------



## chaldowhiteboy (Jun 14, 2010)

New lenses? Way to fix the already damaged ones? Are you making them for us?? AH! Too excited! Can't wait to see what you have done! :laugh:


----------



## 1.8 skeet skeet (Aug 11, 2004)




----------



## 1.8 skeet skeet (Aug 11, 2004)




----------



## 1.8 skeet skeet (Aug 11, 2004)




----------



## VforDUBBIN (Aug 27, 2011)

headlight restoration kit with the sand paper and stuff? haha works great!


----------



## 1.8 skeet skeet (Aug 11, 2004)

Sorry about the GIANT pics but I wanted you guys to see up close how crystal clear they are :thumbup: 

I wish I had pictures of my lights before I did it but they were god awful with clear coat cracking off and fading :banghead: 

*Things you will need:* 

400 Grit, 600 Grit, 800 Grit, 1000 Grit, 1500 Grit, 2000 Grit, 3000 Grit (Sandpaper) 

Painters tape (to protect your paint) 

Spray water bottle 

Turtle Wax polishing compound 

AutoGlym High Polish Wax (or any very high end wax) 

Buffer (if not have to polish by hand.....not recommended) 

*How to do it* 

1. Start wet sanding with the 400 and make sure you wet sand!! Make sure all the clear coat is off the light. You will be able to tell the difference of the plastic and the clear coat. 

2. Once the clear coat is off the lights start using the 600 and make sure you do it for at least 10 minutes. The point of gradually going higher and higher is to make sure all the scratches are taken out off the light. 

3. Follow step two through all the stages of sand paper. If you get lazy on the sanding they will turn out like ****!! Take your time and remember the more you sand the better they will turn out. 

4. Once you are done with the 3000 grit, dry your light and put the polishing compound all over your light and buff it for about 5 minutes or so and make sure it's worked in. Then wipe off 

5. Get your high end wax and polish with buffer for about five minutes or so. Then wipe off and you should have amazing lights like mine. 

6. (Optional) but if you want to protect your work its well worth it. I ordered clear Lamin-X to protect the lenses from fading and weathering and everything else. 

This whole process should take you about 3-4 hours not including breaks, so if it doesn't take that long you have not taken your time sanding!! 

Good Luck Fella's :wave:


----------



## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

For those that dont know, there is what appears to be a clearcoat on the lenses that must be removed before you can restore them. Thats why you need rougher grit sandpaper. I did my gf's bug with just a turtle wax headlight kit and the results are night and day. Like he said, start off with something rough enough to remove the coating and then work up. Also there is a sealer you must use or in no time your lights will be right back to where you started. Its in with the headlight kits.


----------



## benocehcap (Apr 2, 2007)

It looks awesome!:wave: 
But with all that sanding, will your headlight lense be thinner or made easy to crack on a rock impact 

LOOKS  

great job:thumbup:


----------



## 1.8 skeet skeet (Aug 11, 2004)

benocehcap said:


> It looks awesome!:wave:
> But with all that sanding, will your headlight lense be thinner or made easy to crack on a rock impact
> 
> LOOKS
> ...


 Thanks man! All your really doing is taking the Clear Coat off then polishing the plastic :thumbup:


----------



## 1.8 skeet skeet (Aug 11, 2004)

cincyTT said:


> For those that dont know, there is what appears to be a clearcoat on the lenses that must be removed before you can restore them. Thats why you need rougher grit sandpaper. I did my gf's bug with just a turtle wax headlight kit and the results are night and day. Like he said, start off with something rough enough to remove the coating and then work up. Also there is a sealer you must use or in no time your lights will be right back to where you started. Its in with the headlight kits.


 I didn't use a kit....Kits usually only come with 1000 and above to remove haze and oxidation. We have to get rid of our clear coat before we do anything. That sealer stuff they give you is bull**** and most of the time your headlights will go back to that because of the sealer. Thats why I used my little combo and the biggest part is Clear LAMIN-X so they will stay looking great :thumbup:


----------



## bvgoosedd (Mar 5, 2009)

i think that most of us have a problem inside of our headlights. Just saying but Jesus that looks good probs go to you sir :beer:


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Looks great. I did same on my son's toyota about 2 months ago (foggy-yellow to crystal clear) after doing mine with a combo of 3M kit # 39014 plus 3000 grit. Does indeed return an excellent result. 

FWIW, it's been almost a year and there's no indication of degradation on mine, without LAMIN-X. 

cheers.


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

bvgoosedd said:


> i think that most of us have a problem inside of our headlights. ...


 I know several here say there's is on the inside, but I'm not so sure. I guess it is possible, but have any of those folks really tried the above method. I mean, sure TTs are unique, but that unique. Every other car on the highway, with fogged lenses, are fixed with above....but not "most" TTs? I'm just sayin. ;-)


----------



## 1.8 skeet skeet (Aug 11, 2004)

TTC2k5 said:


> I know several here say there's is on the inside, but I'm not so sure. I guess it is possible, but have any of those folks really tried the above method. I mean, sure TTs are unique, but that unique. Every other car on the highway, with fogged lenses, are fixed with above....but not "most" TTs? I'm just sayin. ;-)


 Guys I thought it was the inside as well but, It's *NOT* I promise!! I will try and post a pic with the lights on the spidering is totally gone


----------



## 1.8 skeet skeet (Aug 11, 2004)

Guys if you look at the picture below there is no spidering what so ever..... You can see a few fine scratches and a few pits from rocks but no spidering what so ever. This picture was taken with a 18MP Canon digital SLR so it will show whatever is there! In person you can't see any thing at all.....This picture shows everything :thumbup:


----------



## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

I think you could use a buffing wheel as well. And if your sanding, use a DA sander and save yourself a bunch of time. And YES my lens problem is on the inside. I have some scratches that are on the lower inside part of the lens. I think I could use a dremel with a polishing attachment to fix them. The issue with the spider cracks is that they are deeper on some lenses than others. I've seen some shallow enough that they can be sanded out, and some that were so deep that I wouldn't want to take off that much material. That being said, the lenses are VERY thick.


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

warranty225cpe said:


> I think you could use a buffing wheel as well. And if your sanding, use a DA sander and save yourself a bunch of time. And YES my lens problem is on the inside. I have some scratches that are on the lower inside part of the lens. I think I could use a dremel with a polishing attachment to fix them. The issue with the spider cracks is that they are deeper on some lenses than others. I've seen some shallow enough that they can be sanded out, and some that were so deep that I wouldn't want to take off that much material. That being said, the lenses are VERY thick.


 I had external scratches in mine that were very, very deep. Got about 90% out with 3M plus 3000 grit. it's a doable do. 

Before 









After 









One year later


----------



## 1.8 skeet skeet (Aug 11, 2004)

I know what your saying man. I actually used 180 grit to get down to the spidering on mine. But I would never tell anyone to do that to their lights because if you don't know what your doing you can mess it up! I also would not use a any air tools because I tried on mine and actually started to burn some of the plastic because of the high rpm's. But on my one light I only had to go to a 600 and sanded at the point for about twenty minutes until the spidering was gone. If you put in the work and take your time you will have a great set of lights! The only other option is to spend 1k on new headlights because no one makes lenses for our cars. I have asked all around the world. :laugh:


----------



## 1.8 skeet skeet (Aug 11, 2004)

TTC2k5 said:


> I had external scratches in mine that were very, very deep. Got about 90% out with 3M plus 3000 grit. it's a doable do.
> 
> After


 Looks great man! Its just a common misconception on this forum that its on the inside of our lenses but it's not :thumbup:


----------



## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

1.8 skeet skeet said:


> Its just a common misconception on this forum that its on the inside of our lenses but *IN MOST CASES* it's not :thumbup:


 Edited for accuracy


----------



## 1.8 skeet skeet (Aug 11, 2004)

warranty225cpe said:


> Edited for accuracy


 I really want to agree with you but I have taken the lights apart and I also went as far as to picking up and extra headlight from the spare TT that I have access to. I sanded the inside only on that light like I did on the out side of these light and nothing happened!! The spidering was still there. Then I did the out side and it all went away like magic. :laugh: I wouldnt bull**** you guys! I have been trying a solution to these stupid headlights and I found one! 

If people want to send me headlight lenses I might do it for you if your scared too. 

Trust me I had to have a few beers before I started sanding! 

There just isnt any clear coat on the inside of our lights!! I called Bosch that makes them and they said they would never do that, but they do coat the out side for longevity!


----------



## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

My drivers side lens DOES have scratches on the inside. I can feel them with my fingernail. That's why I said that. I'm not knocking what you've done. I bought the lens used and somehow it ended up with scratches on the inside.


----------



## 1.8 skeet skeet (Aug 11, 2004)

warranty225cpe said:


> My drivers side lens DOES have scratches on the inside. I can feel them with my fingernail. That's why I said that. I'm not knocking what you've done. I bought the lens used and somehow it ended up with scratches on the inside.


 Oh I know your not bro.....I Just didn't want you to have to do more work then you had to man.... If you have some small scratches I would try a nice 2000 or 3000 grit on it and a nice polishing compound and it should come right out :thumbup: I just want to help you bud :wave:


----------



## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

Thank you.


----------



## bvgoosedd (Mar 5, 2009)

as soon as i get my car back i am gonna take my headlights out and do this i really think mine are in the inside i have done the 3m thing and the out side looked good but when i turn the lights on its horrible. its weird too because its as if the inside is getting burned by the hid.


----------



## 1.8tizzle (May 22, 2003)

Final outcome looks amazing dude. Glad I got to help out, at least a little, with it. :thumbup:


----------



## M this 1! (May 17, 2000)

Do yourself a favor and find a clearbra guy/company. clear bra the headlights!! my car is a '02, there's no crystallization and of course no chipping i had to redo them after about 85k, but i threw the guy $20!!!


----------



## 1.8 skeet skeet (Aug 11, 2004)

1.8tizzle said:


> Final outcome looks amazing dude. Glad I got to help out, at least a little, with it. :thumbup:


 Thanks for your help brother



M this 1! said:


> Do yourself a favor and find a clearbra guy/company. clear bra the headlights!! my car is a '02, there's no crystallization and of course no chipping i had to redo them after about 85k, but i threw the guy $20!!!


Yeah I have ordered Lamin-X its the same as the clear Bra.....Your right man its gonna be well worth it :thumbup:


----------



## benocehcap (Apr 2, 2007)

You are a wizard 1.8 skeet skeet!  total cool awesome man!:beer:

This will be on my list to do, as soon i grow some courage:laugh:


----------



## 1.8 skeet skeet (Aug 11, 2004)

benocehcap said:


> You are a wizard 1.8 skeet skeet!  total cool awesome man!:beer:
> 
> This will be on my list to do, as soon i grow some courage:laugh:


Thanks bro! Just remember the more time you put into the sanding the better they will turn out..... Don't be nervous man! They will turn out great :thumbup:


----------



## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

i need to do this on the inside of my lenses.....water got in there somehow, and when it evaporated left all sorts of minieral deposits on the lense so there is fogging all over. looks like ass......ugh...how i do not look forward to baking my headlight.


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

speed51133! said:


> i need to do this on the inside of my lenses.....water got in there somehow, and when it evaporated left all sorts of minieral deposits on the lense so there is fogging all over. looks like ass......ugh...how i do not look forward to baking my headlight.


Baking the light is no big deal. Keep the temp low (170F), keep the time in oven low (5-10 minutes) and work the lens of in steps. bake, pull, bake, pull, etc.

when I did mine, i baked for 10 mins, pulled and began working the lens off. But the adhesive hardens as it cools so after a couple of min pulling, i stopped and put it back in the oven for 5 mins. Pulled it from the oven and worked it, then back in the oven. Total of maybe 3-4 iterations and 30 minutes. Do the same for install and you'll get a very nice tight seal for closure.

edit:
I had difficulty getting one light to fully close. so I used a heat gun and GENTLY warmed the adhesive so I could close it up. If using a heat gun, be very gentle with the heat. The gun concentrates the heat on the plastic and some have had disasterous results: MELTING. 

See pics below for closed versus not closed.

not fully closed:









closed:


----------



## treczech (Mar 24, 2006)

*Clear, Clean headlight lenses*



1.8 skeet skeet said:


>


Wow, was about to look for clear lenses, then there was your display. Will give a it a :laugh:try!!
Thanks in advance.:laugh::laugh::wave:


----------



## 1.8 skeet skeet (Aug 11, 2004)

If you guys have any questions at all.... I will be glad to help you with whatever you would need :thumbup:


----------



## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

link to a headlight remove diy....
http://audittrs.wordpress.com/2011/02/25/how-to-remove-the-headlights-of-an-audi-tt-mk1/


----------



## bvgoosedd (Mar 5, 2009)

Can't belive it worked out so well. I thought I would need new lens. Did everything that is on here exp for 600 grid. 
Before only pic I have from before. 








SANDING








Polishing 









Polished 








Final I need to get them buffed out still but waxed them like 6 times and polished like 3 times.


----------



## 1.8 skeet skeet (Aug 11, 2004)

bvgoosedd said:


> Can't belive it worked out so well. I thought I would need new lens. Did everything that is on here exp for 600 grid.


Im glad it worked out for you man...Looks great :thumbup:


----------



## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Damn! Im on this! My lights look like sh#t!!!


----------



## bvgoosedd (Mar 5, 2009)

It's hard to see in that pic but mine were worse then that. I really didn't think they would come out that good. The only thing is theres like dirt in the inside of mine and a spyder is stuck inside mine too.


----------



## 1.8 skeet skeet (Aug 11, 2004)

Mantvis said:


> Damn! Im on this! My lights look like sh#t!!!


Montey mine were worse than that! it will come out :thumbup:



bvgoosedd said:


> It's hard to see in that pic but mine were worse then that. I really didn't think they would come out that good. The only thing is theres like dirt in the inside of mine and a spyder is stuck inside mine too.


Just take out the headlight and bake them at 250 for about 10 minutes and then pry them apart and take that spyder out :thumbup:


----------



## crazyazz (Dec 5, 2012)

1.8 skeet skeet said:


> Montey mine were worse than that! it will come out :thumbup:
> 
> 
> 
> Just take out the headlight and bake them at 250 for about 10 minutes and then pry them apart and take that spyder out :thumbup:



So is this evil looking spidering inside the lens or not? I have some of this on one I had to replace


----------



## Jayizdaman (Apr 18, 2005)

Did you guys use a random orbital buffer or can I just use a polishing ball on the end of my power drill? I'm so confused!


----------



## crazyazz (Dec 5, 2012)

Have my sandpaper, going in. Wish me luck


----------



## ConnorMc (Dec 4, 2011)

This is great, can't wait to do it to my headlights! Where have you guys found local stores that carry such fine Grits of sandpaper? I made multipile stops and only found up to 1000.


----------



## H_C (May 4, 2007)

ConnorMc said:


> This is great, can't wait to do it to my headlights! Where have you guys found local stores that carry such fine Grits of sandpaper? I made multipile stops and only found up to 1000.


Auto stores usually have up to at least 2000 and most have up to 3000
Or you can get it from amazon.com. I have amazon prime so I get free 2 day shipping (usually turns out to be next day because I live a town away from a distribution center) which has already paid for itself a long time ago


----------



## Dufussman (Apr 20, 2014)

*Great job but doesn't last*

Just wanted to chime in with my first post here. Awesome job there on the lights 1.8 skeet. This method and the over the counter kits can be a huge improvement to really fogged or yellowed etc lights. A word of caution of you're considering this as a touch-up job for lights on any vehicle that aren't that bad. As another poster mentioned, sanding removes the factory clear coat that is baked onto the light lense using techniques that are unique to oem lights. This clear coat does wear out over time, but is what keeps the plastic lenses from sunfading etc. If you do do this, it'll look great for a few months or a year, but eventually you'll have to rebuff the light and possibly do some light wet-sanding with high grit paper. No big deal, I've done it on other cars every time I wax. But the sun WILL fade your light again, and far far more quickly than a new light. Up here in Maine, it takes less than 6 months, in warmer/sunnier climates probably way sooner. You can buy a lense sealer, and it often comes with the kits. I haven't noticed that it helps much. If anyone knows a way to duplicate the factory clear coat on the lenses I'd love to hear about it. Hope this helps. Cheers


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Dufussman said:


> ... But the sun WILL fade your light again, and far far more quickly than a new light. Up here in Maine, it takes less than 6 months, in warmer/sunnier climates probably way sooner. You can buy a lense sealer, and it often comes with the kits. I haven't noticed that it helps much. If anyone knows a way to duplicate the factory clear coat on the lenses I'd love to hear about it. Hope this helps. Cheers



I think the real key is to limit sun exposure. 

Mine after I did then in NOV 2010 with a 3M kit:


















June 2013:










a few weeks ago:










Yes...garage queen.

cheers


----------



## deepblueT (Jan 26, 2008)

TTC2k5 said:


> I think the real key is to limit sun exposure.


I agree, moving to FL has opened my eyes to the fact that hardly anybody here uses their garages therefore their headlights are all horribly ruined by the sun.


----------



## Zelgin (Dec 7, 2013)

Excuse my ignorance, but did the plastic headlight lens come in both a clear, as well as tinted version? Was one HID and the other standard?
Mine look like they've been sandblasted, but they definitely look tinted, Too.


----------



## spydox (Apr 4, 2013)

*super job*

My windscreen, headlamp lenses, and all leading edges look as if they were SANDBLASTED. Driving into the Sunlight, I can hardly see; the windscreen is all tiny dot sparkles. I may try your fix bux I think they may be too far gone?


----------



## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

If your windshield glass is bad, I would just have it replaced. You can get a brand new windshield installed in your driveway for about $300. I'm curious as to why your windshield would suffer, though. The glass should stay crystal clear, regardless of headlight lens haze.

Thanks for mentioning the sun factor, TTC2k5! My car spent five years in Florida with no garage, which is why it got so bad before I got her. I can't wait to finish my clutch job so I can do some cosmetic stuff like this.


----------



## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

Wow, you guys are anal about the headlight lens! I thought I was OCD....

They do look nice, but its just plastic. which probably needs annual, or more, maintenance. Is it really worth this effort to maintain a piece of plastic on a car?

Whatever happened to glass lenses or even new plastic ones that can be "popped in"? What was an approximate cost to make them? Wasn't this being looked into? I would rather pay a grand than spend 4 hours a year....


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

speed51133! said:


> Wow, you guys are anal about the headlight lens! I thought I was OCD....
> 
> They do look nice, but its just plastic. which probably needs annual, or more, maintenance. Is it really worth this effort to maintain a piece of plastic on a car?
> 
> Whatever happened to glass lenses or even new plastic ones that can be "popped in"? What was an approximate cost to make them? Wasn't this being looked into? *I would rather pay a grand than spend 4 hours a year*....


Hell, I do yours for only $750/year. :laugh: Plus, you can serve yourself at the Q-pub while you wait. :thumbup:










cheers.


----------



## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

I weld and own a side bisness. Restoring headlight and painting. Only way to restore them is to fully sand them down. If you don't have the right equipment it takes for ever. Then you need to apply a special coating. It's lime clear but 10 times harder

reply typed by trained monkeys


----------



## max13b2 (Jul 24, 2007)

So where do you get your clear coat from? I've tried the home remedy of 1/2 clear outdoor lacquer and 1/2 paint thinner applied w/ a folded shop towel, which is supposed to last a few years. Although it looked better than OEM and really great when freshly done (kind of like a wet glossy look), it too became cloudy in about 6mths and I had to sand them down again. Now I'm looking for a real, real good coating to offset having to do the sanding gig twice a year.


----------



## Aaron16V1.8l (Aug 12, 2007)

I just sanded mine down and polished them a couple months ago. I have been applying the Meguiars headlight protectant every time I wash the car (about once a week). So far they are holding up great but its only been two months. Kind of a pain to have to apply often, but cheaper than Laminx.


----------



## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

max13b2 said:


> So where do you get your clear coat from? I've tried the home remedy of 1/2 clear outdoor lacquer and 1/2 paint thinner applied w/ a folded shop towel, which is supposed to last a few years. Although it looked better than OEM and really great when freshly done (kind of like a wet glossy look), it too became cloudy in about 6mths and I had to sand them down again. Now I'm looking for a real, real good coating to offset having to do the sanding gig twice a year.


We use a product from a company that sells stuff just for this. We were using lacquer thinner at 30% thinner and 70 lacquer. It's ok but for us it was to runny looking. The other stuff is very good and expensive to the tune of 90 for 14 oz and that's just the coating it uses a special thinner at 44 for the same size

reply typed by trained monkeys


----------



## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

*FV-QR*

Opti Lens is what I used on mine, specifically designed for the task.


----------



## Jayizdaman (Apr 18, 2005)

TTC2k5 said:


> Hell, I do yours for only $750/year. :laugh: Plus, you can serve yourself at the Q-pub while you wait. :thumbup:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That's yours? Can I be your friend?


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Jayizdaman said:


> That's yours? Can I be your friend?


Yup, built it a couple of years ago with TT parts. Move to dallas. GTGs/garage days 2-3 times per year.

Cheers


----------



## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

Hey, that was a grand ONE TIME, not annual....


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

speed51133! said:


> Hey, that was a grand ONE TIME, not annual....


I call shenanigans...your post clearly implied "annual" light maintenance.


----------



## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

speed51133! said:


> Wow, you guys are anal about the headlight lens! I thought I was OCD....
> 
> They do look nice, but its just plastic. which probably needs annual, or more, maintenance. Is it really worth this effort to maintain a piece of plastic on a car?
> 
> Whatever happened to glass lenses or even new plastic ones that can be "popped in"? What was an approximate cost to make them? Wasn't this being looked into? I would rather pay a grand than spend 4 hours a year....


I would rather pay a grand than spend 4 hours a year...

1 grand vs 4hrs per year


----------



## toy4two2 (Feb 6, 2012)

not to crap on the parade but Harbor Frieght sells a $10 head light restoration kit with two sanding discs and a polish enough for 2 lights that made my lights look BRAND NEW. Just requires an electric dril for the sanding pads. Use lots of water and follow the time instructions I think its 5 minutes per light. Its some no name brand at Harbor Frieght works like magic.


----------



## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

Yup and if you don't seal them they'll get worse and worse and worse.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk


----------

