# Trunk will not close...



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

This seems to be the month for posting trunk problems with Phaetons. That's the bad news. The good news is that this also seems to be the month for discovering solutions to trunk problems with Phaetons.
Taylor reported a problem yesterday, in the post Trunk will not open.... Very thoughtfully, he did some troubleshooting and found the solution to the problem, which is also listed on that post.
My problem, which has been bugging me for the past 10 days, was exactly the opposite - the darn trunk lid would not close. Or, to put it more precisely, the trunk lid *appeared* to close properly, but the annunciator on the instrument panel kept indicating that the trunk was still open. No amount of cycling the trunk lid, slamming the trunk lid, applying the "Jack Orr trunk lid trick", or even running diagnostic scans could fix or explain the problem. To be honest, I was getting pretty PO'ed at the car. I didn't want to take it back to the dealership and bother them with it, and eventually the problem evolved into a battle of wits between the Phaeton and myself.
Well - Glory be, I finally discovered the cause of the problem. There was a little piece of road sand - a tiny rock chip - wedged into the moving parts of the latching mechanism in the trunk lid. What was happening was this: The trunk lid would close, and the little electrical motor that closes the latch would operate, and the latch would close 99.5% - more than enough to securely hold the lid closed - but it would not close that "last little bit" that was needed to actuate the micro-switch that indicates, to the annunciator panel, that the trunk lid is, in fact, closed.
I've posted a few pictures below, showing the annunciator panel warning that I have been looking at for the last 10 days, and also a picture of the latch mechanism, with an arrow indicating where the piece of sand was wedged in. My guess is that the sand pebble came from the road sand and salt that is spread on the roads in Canada during the winter time. Probably it got pushed onto the lower part of the latching mechanism - on the bottom of the trunk lip - when my wife or I were loading stuff into the trunk, and from there, it was picked up by the moving components in the trunk lid mechanism.
Michael
*The trunk was closed solidly, but I kept seeing this indication.*








*This is what the latch mechanism looked like before I took the sand particle out.*
_It's kind of hard to see the problem just looking at this photo alone. You need to compare the pawl position between the two photos. In this photo, the pawl has not dropped into place, to lock the main latch closed. This is why the annunciator light remained on, even though the main latch was fully closed._








*This picture shows the pawl properly seated, after I removed the sand particle that was preventing it from dropping into place.*


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Trunk will not close... (PanEuropean)*

Hmmm - I thought I had this problem solved when I removed the bit of sand from the latch, but the problem has returned, and there is no sand in the latch.
This problem seems to only appear when the following conditions are present: 1) It's really cold out - below freezing, and 2) The car is wet, either from washing it, or driving on wet roads.
I have discovered, through trial and error, that if I leave the car in a heated garage overnight, then open and close the trunk manually, using the key in the trunk latch, the problem goes away. I still have not figured out what is causing this problem, though. I think I might take the trunk latching mechanism apart, and see if there is water trapped in it somewhere that is freezing up.
Michael


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## Corradodrvrfnd (Feb 15, 2002)

*Re: Trunk will not close... (PanEuropean)*

I've never seen this on a Phaeton, but a few Touaregs had the microswitch that tells the MFI the hatch is closed fail. You may want to have your dealer check it out.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Trunk will not close... (Corradodrvrfnd)*

Thanks for that suggestion, Matt, I really appreciate it. I did not know that there was a microswitch involved in confirming that the trunk lid is closed. I can see one microswitch in there, if I look up the left hand side of the opening containing the latching mechanism, but it does not seem to be involved in the final closing sequence.
I had a second look at the wiring diagram after reading your suggestion - the only microswitch that is individually identified is what appears to be the "New Jersey Escape Handle", *E406*, on diagram 32/4. But, now that you mentioned it, there appear to be another 3 microswitches inside *F256*, which is the entire rear lid locking unit, the thing with the motorized latch mounted in the middle of the trunk lid itself. That is illustrated on diagram 32/5, but regrettably, the 3 switches are not identified by function. However - I know know that there are 2 more switches in there than I thought there were!
I know that if I take the car to my dealer, they will fix it in about 20 minutes - but that would take all the fun out of 'playing with my new toy'. For me, the best part of owning this car is figuring out how it works. Mind you, it drives nicely too, but I really don't drive it very much.
Michael


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## taygeorge5288 (Jul 24, 2004)

*Re: Trunk will not close... (PanEuropean)*

My Touareg glass will not close sometime, but only in very cold weather. This is a good thing and a bad thing because Mississippi doesnt get much cold weather, it was over 80 today. My dealer does not want to fix a problem they dont think I have. If you figure anything out let me know. 
Thanks


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Trunk will not close... (taygeorge5288)*

Taylor:
The problem I encounter is that the trunk lid itself closes up tight as a drum - no problem there - but the annunciator in the instrument panel shows that the lid is still open. Is this the same problem you have with the Touareg?
Michael


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## taygeorge5288 (Jul 24, 2004)

*Re: Trunk will not close... (PanEuropean)*

Mine shuts all the way but says its open... but when I press on it really hard it says its shut, then when I let go and it says its back open.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Trunk will not close... (taygeorge5288)*

OK, sounds like we have almost the same problem. Pressing on my trunk after it has closed (all the way) does not cause the 'trunk open' annunciator light to go out. I'll keep you advised what I find - I plan to take the trunk latch mechanism apart this weekend.
Michael


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## dcowan699 (Nov 22, 2004)

*Re: Trunk will not close... (PanEuropean)*

This all makes me wonder how much of these strange problems are weather/temperature related. Ever since I bought my Phaeton, I've not had any problems with my car like the one's I read about. At first I thought I am just lucky. But it could be because I live in a warm climate. We don't see snow often and the temperature rarely goes below freezing more than 20 individual nights in a typical winter. I would like to know if the problems increase the further north you go above , say, the Mason-Dixon line. Engine shut off problems, latch problems, tire pressure issues , lights not working, batteries that are not staying fully charged, crazy sounds from the engine compartment, transmission shift problems, etc, etc,. It will be interesting to see how many of the unusual problems go away after spring is in full swing. It does seem that most of those type problems are posted by those in the northern states and Canada. Of course we should also here negative reports from European posters too that live in cold climates. Am I wrong??
What do you think?


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## Itzmann (Jan 16, 2006)

*Something not to do with keyless access and power trunk*

So we wrap up a long brunch with friends in Miami Beach and we decide to go for a stroll on the beach. We had rain coats, umbrellas etc., which we wouldn't be carrying, so I went to the car to drop these off. In addition, my wife gave me her handbag.
I put everything in the trunk and hit the "close" button in the lid and started walking away... when I heard the alarm go "bip bip". Fortunately, I turned around... the lid was coming back up!
I quickly inspected the trunk, lid and hinges and hit the button... lid closed, bip bip, and up again! This happened one more time. The fourth time I pushed the lid down manually. As one closes it, the system slowly compressed the lid for a tight seal... and up again it went!
Finally, I realized my wife must have Phaeton keys in her handbag, so I threw everything in the back seat, locked the thing, made sure the alarm was armed, and walked away.
Don't put Phaeton keys in the trunk.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Something not to do with keyless access and power trunk (Itzmann)*

Smart car, eh?


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## W126C (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: Something not to do with keyless access and power trunk (PanEuropean)*

Ok now I'm confused. I know nothing new. I just went out to the car with both keys, Unlocked it, opened the trunk, put one key in the trunk and closed it. Locked the car. Everything with in normal limits. I tried different steps to try to get the trunk to reopen with a key enclosed. It always closed and locked.







So why would the trunk refuse to lock with the key inside and the car doors/interior would not refuse?
Regards,
Brent


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## Itzmann (Jan 16, 2006)

*Re: Something not to do with keyless access and power trunk (W126C)*

Brent, I don't know. I know that four times, the lid opened on its own. 
I then moved everything that I had put in the trunk to the back seat, and then the lid closed as expected. I closed the rear passenger door, hit the "closed padlock" button on the keyfob, checked that the indicator light in the front door was flashing, and left.
Later, back at home, I verified that there was a Phaeton key inside my wife's handbag.
I don't know if this was normal behavior or some sort of electronic gremlin. I'll try to repeat the experiment and report here whether it was repeatable behavior or just a hitch.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Something not to do with keyless access and power trunk (W126C)*


_Quote, originally posted by *W126C* »_I just went out to the car with *both keys*...

I think the fact that you had more than one key explains why the car didn't kick up any fuss when you tried to lock it.
When I ferried Don P's Phaeton up from Scottsdale, I had all three keys with me. Two were in the glove compartment and one was in my pocket. I never encountered any problem locking up the car with the key that I had in my pocket... because I think the car could detect that I had a key external to the vehicle.
Try this: Go out to the car with one key only in your possession, and all the other keys well out of range of the car. Open the trunk. Close and lock (either with the door handle button, or the key fob) the doors of the car. Now, toss the key into the open trunk, and press the close button on the trunk, and see what happens. _(I just tried this same scenario with my car, and encountered the same result that Francisco reported - the trunk lid closed for a second, then popped right up again.)_
Michael


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## Realist42 (May 14, 2006)

*Re: Something not to do with keyless access and power trunk (PanEuropean)*

...as my Wife tried this option with great success on our BMW, which necessitated a 4 hour round trip to pick up a spare key. I tried this when we first got the car, and still is a party trick to show just how clever this car is... I really like it, and still worry about doing it again with the BMW...
rgds 
Johan


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## W126C (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: Something not to do with keyless access and power trunk (PanEuropean)*

Ok, I got it. His key was not in range and hers was. Yes I tried this and the trunk reopens with only one key with in range. Yes what a smart car. Smarter than some of its drivers.








Regards,
Brent


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## OEMplus.com (May 27, 2003)

*Re: Something not to do with keyless access and power trunk (W126C)*

Wow, that is impressive! My father-in-law closed the trunk of his '02 S430 with the keys inside. Car didn't even hiccup.


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## maverixz (Feb 16, 2005)

I tested my car and yes the car doors wouldn't let you lock it by pressing the button with the key inside but my trunk closed when I activated the closeure button after dropping the key in the trunk. 
Now even though the trunk is closed, the doors of the car wouldn't lock when i pressed the button which allowed me to open the trunk from the button on driver's door. Very impressive! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## car_guy (Aug 19, 2005)

*Re: (maverixz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *maverixz* »_I tested my car and yes the car doors wouldn't let you lock it by pressing the button with the key inside but my trunk closed when I activated the closeure button after dropping the key in the trunk. 
Now even though the trunk is closed, the doors of the car wouldn't lock when i pressed the button which allowed me to open the trunk from the button on driver's door. Very impressive! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

The car car wouldn't lock probably because the key was not in range of the appropriate sensor, not because it was in the trunk. 
I'm surprised the trunk remained closed after pressing the close button as mine (as others reporting above) reopened after closing. I suspect your key battery is low and the sensor in the trunk didn't detect it. I don't know what else would explain it.


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## chrisj428 (Feb 26, 2005)

*Re: (car_guy)*

Steven,
The vehicle actually does have sensors to detect whether a key is inside or outside the vehicle, so it's quite probable it was proximity that prevented the locking instead of distance.
As for the battery in the key, this has no bearing whatsoever on the KESEY system's operation. KESEY uses RFID technology to communicate between the key and the controller in the vehicle. The battery is only for the operation of the remote portion of the key itself.


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## car_guy (Aug 19, 2005)

*Re: (chrisj428)*


_Quote, originally posted by *chrisj428* »_The vehicle actually does have sensors to detect whether a key is inside or outside the vehicle, so it's quite probable it was proximity that prevented the locking instead of distance.

Chris, if the car detected the key in the trunk and prevented the locking of the car, why didn't the trunk reopen when it was closed?


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## chrisj428 (Feb 26, 2005)

*Re: (car_guy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *car_guy* »_Chris, if the car detected the key in the trunk and prevented the locking of the car, why didn't the trunk reopen when it was closed? 

I don't have an answer to that -- I haven't played with trying to lock keys in the car yet.


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## car_guy (Aug 19, 2005)

*Re: (chrisj428)*

Trust me, it happens. Every time I'm driving and my wife decides to lock her purse in the trunk when we park.


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## dcowan699 (Nov 22, 2004)

*Re: (car_guy)*

I tried putting my wife in the trunk and it kept reopening


 






Turns out she had a key in her pocket too! The car may be too smart sometimes.


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## maverixz (Feb 16, 2005)

*Re: (dcowan699)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dcowan699* »_*I tried putting my wife in the trunk and it kept reopening*







Turns out she had a key in her pocket too! The car may be too smart sometimes.









David, you are definitely heading towards the dog house.


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## Jim Morris (Nov 8, 2008)

*Trunk close button*

There are a few topics regarding problems with the power trunk, but none that discuss my specific problem. A few weeks ago the button to close the power trunk started working intermittently. Sometimes I had to push the button a few times before it would 'react' and close the trunk. But since a few days the button stopped working altogether. I've resorted to closing the trunk by reaching over the lid and pressing the logo, but obviously this annoys me greatly.
The light illuminating the button still works, but the button itself is 'dead'. Can anyone tell me how to remove the lower bezel of the trunk lid so I can inspect the electronics of the button, to see if there is a loose wire or any other indication as to why it's not working? Or does anyone have any pointers how I can diagnose this problem?
Thanks in advance!


_Modified by Jim Morris at 3:53 PM 4-29-2009_


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## eurolok003 (Mar 16, 2009)

*Re: Trunk close button (Jim Morris)*

Jim,
If the light to the button still is lit, then there is definitely power to the switch. Do you hear a "click" sound when you press on the switch? If yes, the problem is probably in the controller for the power trunk. If no, then you have a broken relay in the switch itself. Also if you have access to a VAG-COM cable, you can check the function of the power trunk controller (I forgot which module it is in) and do a measured block value check. I did it recently. If the controller is good, you should be able to "activate" the power trunk remotely by VAG-COM. Hope this will help narrow down the probable cause of your problem.


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## Richard Steckly (Mar 6, 2002)

*Re: Trunk close button (Jim Morris)*

Recently experienced power deck lid issue with my 2004 NAR Phaeton V8. Switch worked fine, but latch mechanism was confused. The cause was a damaged wiring harness in deck lid (routed on left side of deck lid). This harness has enough wires in it to launch a space shuttle, so having power to light your switch may not imply that all other wires are functional. The harness is designed to move within a controlled path inside the deck lid as deck lid is opened and closed. This regular movement, combined with age, etc., was sufficient to damage/break several wires in this harness. Replacement solved the problem.
Hope this info is helpful. Of course, your situation may be completely different...








Richard


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## Jim Morris (Nov 8, 2008)

*Re: Trunk close button (Richard Steckly)*

Well, I'm still trying to figure out how to open up the lower bezel of the trunk lid without damaging it, so I can actually _see_ the wires behind it...


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## remrem (Jan 20, 2008)

*Re: Trunk close button (Jim Morris)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jim Morris* »_Well, I'm still trying to figure out how to open up the lower bezel of the trunk lid without damaging it, so I can actually _see_ the wires behind it...


Hello Jim,
If you click on this link:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1665107
it will take you to a discussion about how to install a warning triangle in the trunk, and in so doing may answer your question. Good luck.
Regards,
Ron


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Trunk close button (Jim Morris)*

Jim:
See also this post for information about getting access to the button. Replacing the Backup Light Bulb.
But, I don't think your problem lies with the pushbutton. I think Richard is on the right track with his comment about the wiring harness. I suggest that you run a diagnostic scan on the vehicle before you do any disassembly, this will save you a lot of time and unnecessary disassembly work.
Michael


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## Jim Morris (Nov 8, 2008)

*Re: Trunk close button (PanEuropean)*

It's been a while, but I've finally ordered and received a VAG-COM cable and I have performed a scan on my Phaeton. Below is the output, but I don't see anything related to the automatic trunk. Am I performing the wrong kind of scan?
Friday,05,June,2009,11:03:36:32724
VCDS Version: Release 805.4
Data version: 20090602
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Chassis Type: 3D - VW Phaeton D1
Scan: 01 02 03 05 06 07 08 09 11 13 15 16 17 18 19 23 27 28 29 2E
34 36 37 38 39 46 47 55 56 57 65 66 68 69 71 75 76 77

VIN: WVWZZZ3DZ48006505 Mileage: 175010km/108746miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: None
Part No SW: 070 906 016 B HW: 028 101 073 7
Component: V10 5,0L EDCG000AGM™5726 
Coding: 0000175
Shop #: WSC 43095 134 00985
5 Faults Found:
18358 - Radiator Fan (V7): Movement Restricted / Jammed 
P1950 - 000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1512 /min
Torque: 229.1 Nm
Speed: 33.3 km/h
Load: 25.1 %
Voltage: 12.54 V
Bin. Bits: 00001100
Temperature: 34.2∞C
Duty Cycle: 11.2 %
18359 - Radiator Fan 2 (V177): Movement Restricted / Jammed 
P1951 - 000 - - 
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 630 /min
Torque: 86.9 Nm
Speed: 25.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 12.16 V
Bin. Bits: 00001111
Temperature: 84.6∞C
Duty Cycle: 41.4 %
18045 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from Electric Load Controller 
P1637 - 000 - - 
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 630 /min
Torque: 79.0 Nm
Speed: 11.9 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 12.54 V
Bin. Bits: 00001111
Bin. Bits: 00000000
Bin. Bits: 00001111
17978 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer 
P1570 - 000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 840 /min
Torque: 86.9 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 10.94 V
Bin. Bits: 00001111
Bin. Bits: 00000000
(no units): 1.0
16887 - Vehicle Speed Sensor: Signal too High 
P0503 - 000 - - 
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Torque: 410.8 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 6.23 V
Bin. Bits: 00001100
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Readiness: 0 0 X X X 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: None
Part No SW: 09F 927 760 A HW: GS1 9.0 4.1 
Component: AG6 09F 5,0L V10TDI 0703 
Coding: 0001101
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 3D0-614-517.lbl
Part No: 3D0 614 517 R
Component: ESP 5.7 allrad H33 0043 
Coding: 0008646
Shop #: WSC 43265 000 00000
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 05: Acc/Start Auth. Labels: 3D0-909-13x-05.lbl
Part No SW: 3D0 909 135 L HW: 5WK 470 22
Component: Kessy 6400 
Coding: 0213228
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
Part No: XXXXXXXXXXX 
Component: ELV XXXX
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 06: Seat Mem. Pass Labels: 3D0-959-759.lbl
Part No: 3D0 959 759 B
Component: Sitzmemory D1 BF 1405 
Coding: 0000003
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
1 Fault Found:
00477 - Control Module; Display & Input; Comfort CAN; Front (J523) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 07: Control Head Labels: 3D0-035-00x-07.lbl
Part No: 3D0 035 007 L
Component: ZAB COCKPIT 0223 
Coding: 0400535
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
13 Faults Found:
00384 - Optical Databus 
004 - No Signal/Communication
00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
00457 - Control Module for Network (J519) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
01332 - Door Control Module; Passenger Side (J387) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
01333 - Door Control Module; Rear Left (J388) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
01334 - Door Control Module; Rear Right (J398) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
01308 - Control Module for Roof Electronics (J528) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
01341 - Control Module in Instrument Panel On Comfort CAN (J285) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
00466 - Control Module for Steering Column Electronics (J527) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
01320 - Control Module for Climatronic (J255) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
00455 - Control Module for Access and Start Control; Comfort CAN (J518) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 3D0-907-040.lbl
Part No: 3D0 907 040 F
Component: Climatronic D1 1132 
Coding: 0000001
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
1 Fault Found:
01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71) 
014 - Defective
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 3D0-937-049.lbl
Part No: 3D0 937 049 E
Component: STG.Bordnetz 4501 
Coding: 0000003
Shop #: WSC 43095 134 00985
No Faults Found
or DTCs not supported by controller
or a communication error occurred
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 11: Engine II Labels: None
Part No SW: 070 906 016 B HW: 028 101 073 7
Component: V10 5,0L EDCG000AGS™5726 
Coding: 0000175
Shop #: WSC 43095 134 00985
4 Faults Found:
19727 - Linear Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B2 S1; Reference Voltage: Open Circuit 
P3271 - 000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 630 /min
Torque: 118.5 Nm
Speed: 3.6 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
(no units): 0.0
(no units): 0.0
Bin. Bits: 10000001
18630 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B2 S1: Signal too High (Rich) 
P2198 - 000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 630 /min
Torque: 118.5 Nm
Speed: 3.6 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
(no units): 0.0
(no units): 0.0
Bin. Bits: 10000001
16887 - Vehicle Speed Sensor: Signal too High 
P0503 - 000 - - 
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 42 /min
Torque: 402.9 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 6.31 V
Bin. Bits: 00001100
Torque: 292.3 Nm
Torque: 0.0 Nm
18058 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from Instrument Cluster 
P1650 - 000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 588 /min
Torque: 102.7 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 12.84 V
Bin. Bits: 00001111
Torque: 355.5 Nm
Torque: 0.0 Nm

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 3D0-909-601.lbl
Part No: 3D0 909 601 A
Component: Airbag 8.4E 0506 
Coding: 0241705
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel Labels: 3D0-953-549.lbl
Part No: 3D0 953 549 C
Component: Lenks‰ulenmodul 3301 
Coding: 0000232
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 3D0-920-xxx-17.lbl
Part No: 3D0 920 881 A
Component: KOMBIINSTRUMENT RB4 0321 
Coding: 0005111
Shop #: WSC 00801 202 82043
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 18: Aux. Heat Labels: 3D0-815-005.lbl
Part No: 3D0 815 005 M
Component: Standheizung 2415 
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
No Faults Found
or DTCs not supported by controller
or a communication error occurred
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
Part No: 6N0 909 901 
Component: Gateway K<>CAN 0101 
Coding: 0000006
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 29: Left Light Labels: Redir Fail!
Part No: 3D0 909 157 
Component: EVG GDL+AutoLWR(l) X012 
Coding: 0000001
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 34: Level Control Labels: 3D0-907-553.lbl
Part No: 3D0 907 553 A
Component: LUFTFDR.-CDC- 3C1V0 1090 
Coding: 0015500
Shop #: WSC 46728 133 03727
1 Fault Found:
00135 - Left Front Wheel Acceleration Sensor (G337) 
011 - Open Circuit
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 36: Seat Mem. Drvr Labels: 3D0-959-760.lbl
Part No: 3D0 959 760 B
Component: Sitzmemory D1 F 1405 
Coding: 0000004
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
2 Faults Found:
00003 - Control Module 
014 - Defective
00477 - Control Module; Display & Input; Comfort CAN; Front (J523) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 37: Navigation Labels: 3D0-919-887.lbl
Part No: 3D0 919 887 B
Component: NAVIGATION 0168 
Coding: 0000000
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
1 Fault Found:
00003 - Control Module 
014 - Defective
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 38: Roof Electronics Labels: 3D0-907-135.lbl
Part No: 3D0 907 135 B
Component: Dachmodul 0605 
Coding: 0000023
Shop #: WSC 00801 202 97249
5 Faults Found:
00204 - Sunroof Button (E325) 
007 - Short to Ground
00205 - Garage Door Opener Indicator Lamp (K179) 
007 - Short to Ground
00220 - Connection to Sunroof 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
01462 - Anti-theft alarm ultra sonic Sensor (G209) 
008 - Implausible Signal
00216 - Signal EC-mirror Fade Out 
009 - Open or Short to Ground
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 39: Right Light Labels: Redir Fail!
Part No: 3D0 909 158 
Component: EVG GDL+AutoLWR(r) X012 
Coding: 0000001
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 3D0-959-933.lbl
Part No: 3D0 959 933 F
Component: HSG 0101 
Coding: 0000040
Shop #: WSC 00801 202 97249
Part No: 3D1 959 701 E
Component: Tuersteuergeraet FS 0104
Part No: 3D1 959 702 J
Component: Tuersteuergeraet BF 0201
Part No: 3D0 959 703 E
Component: Tuersteuergeraet HL 0104
Part No: 3D0 959 704 E
Component: Tuersteuergeraet HR 0104
Part No: 3D0 909 610 B
Component: 3I HDSG 2320
Part No: 7L0 907 719 
Component: Neigungssensor 0020
1 Fault Found:
00486 - Front Passengers Outside Door Handle Central Locking Button (E370) 
007 - Short to Ground
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 47: Sound System Labels: 
Note: Excessive Comm Errors

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 57: TV Tuner Labels: 3D0-919-146.lbl
Part No: 3D0 919 146 
Component: TV Tuner H07 1205 
Coding: 0000010
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 68: Wiper Electr. Labels: None
Part No: 3D1 955 119 
Component: Front Wiper 2005 
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 71: Battery Charger Labels: 3D0-915-181.lbl
Part No: 3D0 915 181 C
Component: Batteriemanagement 2700 
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
No Faults Found
or DTCs not supported by controller
or a communication error occurred
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 76: Park Assist Labels: 3D0-919-283.lbl
Part No: 3D0 919 283 C
Component: 01 Einparkhilfe 0807 
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 77: Telephone Labels: 3D0-035-704.lbl
Part No: 3D0 035 704 D
Component: Telefon 8110 
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
1 Fault Found:
00459 - Control Module for Display and Input; Front (J523) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
End ---------------------------------------------------------------------


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Trunk close button (Jim Morris)*

Hello Jim:
Some comments for you, arising from reviewing your diagnostic scan results:
*1)* You have a 'hard' (persistent) fault on your number 2 radiator fan, perhaps have a look in there and see if there is some debris preventing the fan from rotating. Be sure to only do this when the engine is stone cold (12 hours after shutdown), lest the fan become active on its own.
*2) *You have a 'hard' (persistent) fault on your Left Front Wheel Acceleration Sensor. This is a small Hall effect sensor proximate to the inside edge of the brake disc. It's not expensive to repair or replace - you should have it attended to, because your ABS and stability control will not work satisfactorily without this sensor.
*3)* You have a 'hard' (persistent) fault on your Front Passengers Outside Door Handle Central Locking Button. This will require replacement of the door handle, which is a complex and expensive task. This procedure is fully detailed in the forum table of contents - see this post: Door Handles - How to troubleshoot and replace exterior handles.
You have a lot of comm errors in the report, and a lot of intermittent faults. I suggest that you do another scan - make sure you leave the engine running while the scan is taking place - then, save the results, auto-clear all of the fault codes, then do another scan and see what remains.
The automatic trunk closing mechanism is a slave controller of 46, it is listed on your scan as
Part No: 3D0 909 610 B
Component: 3I HDSG 2320
and you are correct, it is not showing any errors.
Michael


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## Jim Morris (Nov 8, 2008)

*Re: Trunk close button (PanEuropean)*

Hello Michael,
Thank you very much for your insight, I was hoping for some comments on my scan results.
I expected a lot of errors the first time I performed the scan as I have had some battery issues lately. Especially when I forget to turn off my DVB-T tuner at the end of the day and the convenience battery is low the next morning. This happens a lot and I'm wondering if the battery may need replacement. The voltage indicator, however, always hangs around 13V.
1) Is this the large fan at the front? I will check if the fan can rotate freely tomorrow morning when the engine is cold.
2) Is it possible that if this sensor is defective, the car may seem 'out of balance' sometimes? Sometimes I have the feeling that I'm driving over pebbles when the road is completely flat. This only occurres intermittently and stops after a few hundred meters.
3) This fault was expected and actually the reason I finally decided to buy the VAG-COM cable. I've been having two sporadic issues with the keyless entry system, the first being that the driver side button (I never use the other ones) doesn't respond and I have to lock the car by pressing the button on the remote. I haven't had this problem for over a week now, but somethings when I park and press the button it suddenly doesn't work. So there is a short somewhere in the system that doesn't always occur.
The second problem I sometimes have is when I touch a handle to unlock, it unlock and immediatly relocks. Then the windows open up a few centimeters, but the doors remain locked. I have to either step away and press the remote button to unlock or pull one of the handles, causing the windows to open up further. This problem also doesn't occur all of the time, but mostly when the car is under my carport.
What does it mean that the trunk mechanism doesn't show any errors? Does this indicate that the button itself is defective?
I will clear all codes and perform another scan once I'm back home this afternoon.
Michael, thanks again for your insights.


_Modified by Jim Morris at 1:36 PM 6-5-2009_


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

*Re: Trunk close button (Jim Morris)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jim Morris* »_The voltage indicator, however, always hangs around 13V.


It is not a battery voltage indicator, but it shows the voltage output by the alternator.
So, even with a totally flat battery, it will show 13V. This shows that the alternator is healthy. Not that the battery is healthy.
I find that the info on battery state is missing either on the dashboard, or in one of the infotainment menus (could be in the "vehicle" menu, where the level / voltage of the two batteries could be shown).
P.


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## Paldi (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: Trunk close button (Richard Steckly)*

My cable is starting to fray. I suppose at some point the wiring will be damaged and I will begin experiencing similar problems as described here. I'm wondering if the repair will be covered by the VW extended warranty? My car is almost due for the 80,000 mile service...


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Trunk close button (Jim Morris)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jim Morris* »_What does it mean that the trunk mechanism doesn't show any errors? Does this indicate that the button itself is defective?

No, it does not. You can actually check the functionality of the button by looking at the measured value blocks.
It is entirely possible that your problems with the trunk may be a consequence of the problems you are having with that door handle pushbutton having failed closed. 
My suggestion is that you start your troubleshooting by clearing out the problems that you have reports for - and when they are all gone, then take a second look at the trunk closing issue.

_Quote, originally posted by *Jim Morris* »_The second problem I sometimes have is when I touch a handle to unlock, it unlock and immediatly relocks. 

That is because you have a locking pushbutton that has failed towards the closed position.
Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Trunk close button (Paldi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Paldi* »_My cable is starting to fray...

Hi Fred:
You mean, your VAG-COM cable? Uh, I don't think the warranty covers that one... but if you talk to Uwe at Ross-Tech, I'm pretty sure he'll look after you, especially considering that you guys are neighbors.








Michael


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## Jim Morris (Nov 8, 2008)

*Re: Trunk close button (PanEuropean)*

Just to close this question, it turns out the button itself was defective, which I already suspected. Fortunately, the button was only a 10 euro part and I installed it in under a minute (yank off the trim strip and swap out the button).


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Trunk close button (Jim Morris)*

Just a note for the records, in case anyone comes searching in the future looking for an answer to a similar problem:
Be aware that on the North American Phaetons only, there are two connectors in the trunk lid wiring harness - both near the locking mechanism for the trunk lid - that are physically interchangeable but not functionally interchangeable.
If any repair work is carried out, and these two connectors are inadvertently swapped, the trunk will not open and close properly. This is discussed and illustrated in some detail toward the end of this thread: Microswitch behind Trunk Lid Logo (for opening power trunk) does not work.
Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Trunk close button (PanEuropean)*

*Archival Note:* See also this discussion - Trunk Closure Button Inoperative
Michael


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## tortoiseandhare (Apr 8, 2010)

*Re: Trunk close button (PanEuropean)*

Hi, new owner of a 2004 Phaeton here. I was trying to calibrate my trunk lid according to the various instructions in this forum, but my problem seems to be unique. There is no trunk close button on the trunk lid. Was this an option that I'm missing? Thanks for any insights...
~Loren


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## ruddyone (Feb 9, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Loren -
I just posted a response to your question in the other thread. Please post your questions in one place only. Don't worry, I'm sure you will find that people will see your question and respond. This just helps to keep the forum clean and the answers generally in one place.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...age=2 
Again, welcome to the forum and congratulations on the purchase!
Best Regards,
Nate


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## tortoiseandhare (Apr 8, 2010)

*Re: FV-QR (ruddyone)*

Thanks - I'll restrain myself from the multiple posts. I saw some really old dates on the other thread so was worried maybe the forum wasn't all that active. I'm glad it is! I'll enjoy learning about what the car can do.
I guess I don't have the trunk closure option since the button is not there - as shown in the user manual. Seems odd that the trunk lid is so stiff to move up and down, though.


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## hylko (Nov 17, 2009)

*new lock with micro swith needed ???*

Hi there guys, 

I put my car in for service last week and ask to get boot checked as this looked out of sync. ( I had tried to reset, lid up, key fob, button etc.). 

I was advised that a new lock was needed to get this solved. Costing 550 euro. I declined this and will open it manually. 

After the service the car kept giving me an error saying the boot is openen (its shut) and gives 4 annoying beeps. ( its same in the first picture off this post ). Now i cant use the steering wheel to browse trough menu etc. plus damage on inside off the boot thanks to diagnosing the problem!! 

Returned the car as not received it back in same state i handed it to them. 

Now if i want my complaints gone they are still staying i need to buy this lock ( with 100 euro discount ). 

But i am not sure if this is going to fix my original problem. How are you guys looking towards this mystery. 

Thanks Hylko


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Photos re-hosted.

Michael


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## weefatboy (Nov 11, 2013)

Hi all,

First:- I apologise if I have put this post in the wrong place..........



I've been a long time admirer of the forum (Especially Michael, for his excellent input) since I Bought my Phaeton 3.2 motion (2005) in March 2012 as I have had a few issues with the car I would like to put in my tuppence worth and hope it helps.

1. November 2013, I had a similar issue with the boot (trunk) not closing, everything was fine (Apart from the "Start engine" delayed message) until I took the misses shopping (Sat in the car and played on the S3 as you do) to Tesco and opened the boot put the bags in and the boot closed half way then stopped, no power at all.

I tried everything from checking the fuses to the various methods on here without success, I had to drive home 5 miles with the boot "Open" - running the risk of my case of Buds falling out :facepalm:

It turned out the previous owner had left a cheap scan tool in the diagnostic socket, as it was a new battery (Feb '12) it had taken 9 months for it to effect the battery's power.

The power trunk must be the highest power drain on the battery system and therefore is the first to effect the electrics, Just make sure there is no (Constant) power drain on electrics before you go and buy..........., after I removed the scan tool and the kids DVD charger from the back 12V socket I drove around for 15 min - closed and locked all the doors then opened them and BINGO - trunk worked & Start engine message gone.

2. January 2013, I had the problem with the reversing sensors (Four red lights in the corners) for 3 months as I had to replaced the throttle body (idle control valve) was sticking causing the wrong mixture this resulted in excessive exhaust fumes - after trying a load of different solutions - I put a pea size of T-Cut in a tub and mixed it with vinegar, rubbed it on the rear sensors (Individually) then left for 1 min - removed it with a wet cloth then rubbed with a dry cloth - sensors work.

3. July 2012, I got LPG installed in the car - any questions about the system and i'll try my best to answer them.......

Cheers.

Danny


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## Auzivision (Apr 19, 2007)

Interesting first post. Welcome to the forum. 

It appears perhaps you have been lurking for a while based on how fast you determined low battery voltage can cause a host of electronic issues.

Sounds like you have initial good success sorting through a few minor issues.

This forum is a good source of help when needed. I hope by now you may have stumbled upon the table of contents (TOC) thread. If not, following is a link just in case:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1652232-Phaeton-Forum-Table-of-Contents-(FAQ-by-Category)


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## Bindaham (Apr 4, 2014)

Here's my situation with regard to my power trunk:

- Few months ago, the trunk was shut and would not cooperate in opening wither automatically or manually. The "trunk is open" warning indicator was a constant annoying feature on my dashboard screen.

- Changed the latch mechanism and the struts based on the recommendation of a VW tech. Things got better, but still, the trunk did not self open or close. There's always a need for manual intervention. 

- I performed the usual recommended programming/adapting matters with the VCDS, and now when I use the door button or the key fob, the trunk opens, then closes, then opens but stays down! I have to lift it up and luckily it stays up. Then when I use the trunk close button on the right side of trunk lid, it closes but some times the lid goes 2/3 of the way down then stops and I have to lower it manually, or it goes all the way down but it does not close until I push it down and only then I hear the closing click. (More or less this is now the daily ritual)

I even once whispered "please please please" but that didn't work either. 

What possibly more can I do!

Regards,

Salah


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Salah,

What happens if you try the scan tool adaptation procedure for the trunk controller, first clearing any DTCs? I am referring to the method described in the VCDS label file 3D0-959-933.lbl at Channel 24.

Are there any DTCs recorded after the procedure? Does it complete correctly?

Chris


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## Bindaham (Apr 4, 2014)

Hi Chris,

I will try again tonight and report.

Regards,

Salah


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## Bindaham (Apr 4, 2014)

Well, There are persistent faults in Address 05: Acc/Start Auth. 

00182- Luggage Compartment Access/Start Authorization Antenna (R137)
011- Open Circuit 

00183 - Interior Access/Start Authorization Antenna (R138)
011- Open Circuit

Plus, please give a hand to a first timer: 00165 - Switch for Transmission Position P/N 

😊


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Salah,

Did you make any progress with the defective antennas, or possibly the KESSY unit that drives them?

By the way, the transmission selector switch message you quoted is thought to be benign and has no reported effect on the car's operation.

Chris


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Bindaham said:


> Well, There are persistent faults in Address 05: Acc/Start Auth.
> 
> 00182- Luggage Compartment Access/Start Authorization Antenna (R137)
> 011- Open Circuit
> ...


Hi Salah:

Presuming that the two antennas are not simply unplugged from the car (rather unlikely, especially in the case of the interior one), you likely have a failure of some electronic components in your Access and Start Controller.

Willem Bal investigated this a few years ago, and provided us with a superb explanation of what the problem is, and how to fix it. You can view his contributions at this post: Access and Start Controller (controller 07) - resolving antenna 'open circuit' faults

Michael


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## Bindaham (Apr 4, 2014)

Hello Chris & Michael

As if you knew, yesterday I took the vehicle to the local dealer since a KESSY job was done to it less than two years ago and that work is still warranted. The trunk plus the key less handle entry are still not functioning as they should so taking it to the shop is my last resort before a personal intervention to follow Willem suit. 

Regards,

Salah


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## Bindaham (Apr 4, 2014)

Update:

The Chief Tech in the local VW shop told me a today that the antennas needs to be changed as the KESSY unit was installed by him a year ago. I declined.

With regard to the trunk issue, he said the hydraulic unit for rear lid actuator (3D5827383C) is leaking and was the cause of the trunk not opening / closing in the proper way. I declined as well, and if so is the case I'll replace it later. (Over $1K for the unit :what


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## Bindaham (Apr 4, 2014)

Any one had a problem with the trunk hydraulic unit? Are they repairable?


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## Phaeton2 (May 18, 2013)

Michael, I believe your trunk issue is likely related to the wiring harness going to the lid. The wire insulation is likely busted causing a short circuit, which can activate the trunk release. The reason it is open is because it is open. I just posted photos and repaired mine. See recent post on the harness. I had the same problems with the trunk and after replacement of the harness everything works perfectly. I've only had it repaired for a few days but so far so good. My neighbor also has a Phaeton and has similar problems with his trunk a long time ago. I wouldn't put off repair of the harness if you can avoid it. It sounds like his latch retraction was activated when the trunk was closed making it almost impossible to open the trunk. The key didn't work nor the emergency lever. Eventually it was forced open with a crowbar or something causing a lot of damage.


Edit...Michael, I just saw this is a 9 year old post. I'm guessing you figured it out!!


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## kisskool (Dec 21, 2014)

Hello,

I have the same issue with my trunk, it doesn't work when I press the button, both on the key or on the lid itself. But it is not solidly closed !
the doors canbe closed but the trunk can easily be opened without any key.

do you have any tips for me ?


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## Fratrick (Jan 23, 2009)

Bindaham said:


> Any one had a problem with the trunk hydraulic unit? Are they repairable?


I'm starting to think that this is my issue. Allow me to explain.

With the trunk open in the upright position. 

If you try the reset method or press the trunk button on the boot it will start to cycle the trunk latch but the trunk stays open and will simply move up just a little bit but the trunk remains stationary. Before this the trunk would move but then simply stop about halfway on the way down. 

It doesn't sound like a wiring or module issue but I guess it could be a module? The mechanism in the boot lid does appear to be functioning.


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

I suspect the fault is in the wires.
Checking the condition of the wires is not a very big job. there is a box in the boot lid (under the cladding) to which the wires go. Look there.
- Jussi


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## Fratrick (Jan 23, 2009)

Jussi12 said:


> I suspect the fault is in the wires.
> Checking the condition of the wires is not a very big job. there is a box in the boot lid (under the cladding) to which the wires go. Look there.
> - Jussi


Thanks for the input, I forgot to mention that I did check the wiring by pulling down the sleeve, checking inside the box, and could not find anything broken or frayed from the chassis of the car by the roof of the trunk all the way to the latch assembly in the trunk lid. Is it possible that the wiring could be damaged near the trunk module in the roof of the trunk?

Is it possible that these wires are bad even though the outside shows no damage?

I'm really starting to think that there is something wrong with the hydraulic pump. I can hear it working and turning for about 5-10 seconds but then nothing happens. I don't see how it could be the wires if everything appears to be functioning except the hydraulic pump properly. Could it be leaked out of fluid or just bad?


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## Fratrick (Jan 23, 2009)

Okay I went into the hydraulic pump and changed the fluid out twice. 

If I do the trunk reset and play with it a little bit I can get the trunk to move upward if open a bit and when the trunk lid is completely open i can get it to begin closing but then it just quits at about half way.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Fratrick said:


> Okay I went into the hydraulic pump and changed the fluid out twice.
> 
> If I do the trunk reset and play with it a little bit I can get the trunk to move upward if open a bit and when the trunk lid is completely open i can get it to begin closing but then it just quits at about half way.


Did you reset faults? 

I don't think it's a problem with wires if you checked under the sleeve. Did you check at the elbow joint at the edge of the trunk? You said they were good from the roof of the trunk to the latch, but they could have good continuity at certain positions if you are checking with an ohmmeter. The wires on 7579 had been repaired at the usual spot just above the tube and also at that elbow joint. Both had broken again by the time I checked them. 

There is also a position sensor in the right battery compartment. It falls apart sometimes. That may be in this thread or one of the hundreds of other trunk threads. There was a person selling a repair kit on eBay.


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

No one, and I can't be 100% sure, but still ...
I think the fault is in the wires. Open that box so you can see all the wires properly. This will rule out the most likely fault.
It is not a big job to do this check. After the check, you don’t have to think about wires, you can focus on finding fault elsewhere.
It is possible that you will find a fault in those wires and you will no longer have to look for a fault. You can focus on repairing.
There were problems with the operation of my car's tailgate like the one you described. They were due to bad wires. My friend in Phaetn also has the same problem right now. He starts repairing those wires in his own V10 diesel.
- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Jussi12 said:


> No one, and I can't be 100% sure, but still ...
> I think the fault is in the wires. Open that box so you can see all the wires properly. This will rule out the most likely fault.
> It is not a big job to do this check. After the check, you don’t have to think about wires, you can focus on finding fault elsewhere.
> It is possible that you will find a fault in those wires and you will no longer have to look for a fault. You can focus on repairing.
> ...


Also look inside the pipe and at the ball joint through which the wires go.


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## Fratrick (Jan 23, 2009)

Thanks for the input gents.

So after speaking with the my friend and previous owner, the wiring harness has been replaced once so I ruled that out. Thanks
*53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN!*
I started digging around the passenger trunk area some more and found the Position sensor had COMPLETELY come off. It must have been partially off early on and that's why the trunk would move down but then eventually stop. I re-attached it and it's working perfectly! The hydraulic pump is kind of hanging over the battery at the moment and I'm having some trouble getting it back up into the upper area (not sure if this makes a difference or not) Now I am on to the Fog light grilles which will be coming in the mail shortly. I'm hoping I can remove the bottom cover and access that area well enough to attach. The body shop was not able to re-use the original ones unfortunately.

It's going to be really difficult to let this car go. It is pretty sorted. I know the original owner had the torque converter issue addressed very early on in the car's life. If I don't get the price I want for it, I may just keep it. It has 85k miles on it.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Fratrick said:


> Thanks for the input gents.
> 
> So after speaking with the my friend and previous owner, the wiring harness has been replaced once so I ruled that out. Thanks
> *53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN!*
> ...


Glad you found the problem. 

I think the fact that the harness has been replaced should be a selling point. It's too bad that people who don't know about the trunk harness problem won't care.


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Great that the problem was solved.
Damage to the wiring harness is probably the most common fault that causes problems with the operation of the tailgate. I didn’t know the wiring harness had been repaired before, so I thought this problem too was due to a fault in the wiring harness, but no.
About the wiring harness yet...
Usually the wires are damaged because the plastic insulation on the wire hardens and cracks. When the wire bends enough times from the point where the insulation has cracked, it will eventually break. If repair is performed, it is recommended to replace the "unbroken" wires as well. These "unbroken" wires are likely to have hardened plastic insulation. It is likely that these wires will also be broken later.
- Jussi


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