# C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions



## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

More video & pics posted down below http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








I purchased a used kit from an OBD2 car, changed the chip & couplers to make it OBD1 compliant. 
My mech. just about finished up the install of my SC kit today. 
Not as easy as planned. 

The SS brained oil return fitting is too tight to use, to tight to thread onto the charger fitting (no turning clearance) *(possibly just a few mm off when Vortech originally threaded the port?)
So I used a collared fitting & had to tap my OEM pan w/ a new barb type fitting. 
I had 2 stripped bolts in the whole process. 1 on wp pulley , other on SAP (had to remove my NSPD pulleys). 
Had to reroute the charcoal canister. the lines are tight, but it fits in bumper quite nicely
Shim on SC bracket was not required. 
Belt fits very, very snug. Tight to get on
Added a vacuum T fitting near EGR for the DV. Am going to keep the heated element from the VC. Just going to add a breather filter here, or catch can later on.
Had to shorten the CAI tube from SC. It was way too long and put the provided filter too low.
Had the cut off & re weld the breather tube thats on chargers output/upper pipe. Had to make a much sharper angle to be able to clear the fender wall and angle hose to the DV. An OBD1 Corrado specific pipe would have made this easier. 
had to weld an inlet pipe for the ISV to the upper OBD2 tubing. *(OBD1 uses ISV)
Had to trim the coupling from charger input to CAI as it was too wide(long) and the CAI elbow would not clear the fender wall. It still touches. Its real tight in there. 

Heres the video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkFN3sLdAqk
Has AT 262, MK4 HG, NSPD cat back, C2 OBD1 30# chip, w/ 2.87 pulley & more non relevant parts

Edit- ISV issue solved, needed to add the inlet to the upper OBD2 piping. Thanks



_Modified by gtimagic at 1:29 AM 11-21-2006_


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## DubOutcast (Sep 29, 2006)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (gtimagic)*

I dont know the ISV stands for....but on my car, when I change my fuel pressure the vacuum line that is on the top of it when capped stalls my engine, unless u give it some throttle then it compensates and keeps the engine running....u could try that.....I GUESS...what do I know..lol


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## vaporado (Aug 14, 2005)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (gtimagic)*

Congrats on the S/C. Your car sounds sick on the video.


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (bumblevee)*

ISV= Idle Stabilizer Valve
sucks in air to " ^ " 
not sure if its written out on the C2 programing
thanks Walt, A bit whiney @ idle, but







at throttle


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## abt cup (Aug 1, 2000)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (gtimagic)*

You need the ISV. There should be a fitting on the inlet tube that will let you plug in the fitting for the ISV.
In the pic you can see where the line runs from the inlet pipe.


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (abt cup)*

it that an obd1, C2 set up? or VF ? 
there is not fitting on my pipe, nor are there on the pipes pictured on C2's site 

I do have 1" fitting on the bottom. it connects the DV to the pre charger CAI



_Modified by gtimagic at 7:45 AM 11-16-2006_


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## vaporado (Aug 14, 2005)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (gtimagic)*

Good morning and good luck.


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## DubOutcast (Sep 29, 2006)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (gtimagic)*

hopefully I'll get to see it 2nite!!!


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (DubOutcast)*

called C2, got some info. Updated the post.


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## abt cup (Aug 1, 2000)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (gtimagic)*

Mines an OBD 1.


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (abt cup)*

huge thanks to Kieserjose for all the info & help. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Big thanks to Chris @ C2 for getting me this kit. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Much, much thanks to Erick @ Alberto's Auto Repair on Concord Ave. in the Bronx. He made it all happen & got me through the "not so perfect" installation http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Today, the additional ISV tube was welded onto the upper intake pipe, everything was re assembled, codes were scanned etc. 
No additional codes, just the prior 515 hall sensor (CPS) . 
Drives really well, feels good, Very linear power, but much more noticeable above 5000rpm. 
Heads were turning in rush hour traffic. She's a looker who makes some whistling noises. They disappear around 2k and then its sounds very hollow/throaty. Like sucking through a huge plastic pipe. 
The idle is nice. It bounces & stalls if I stop quickly, push the clutch pedal fast( when slowing/stopping). * Could be a result of LW FW (AT billet), but its not that light 

Another video & completion pics coming soon.








The SC pulley main bolt decided to come loose after test run. Not good. Kinda hard to get a to torque down its installed.








~ added some thread lock & tighten it while mounted. Good so far ..


_Modified by gtimagic at 1:32 AM 11-21-2006_


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## vaporado (Aug 14, 2005)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (gtimagic)*

Sucks about the main bolt but damn It sounds like it was a good test run


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## hubbell (Oct 30, 2001)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (bumblevee)*

i did the same obd1 c2 V2 install on my C, i had almost none of your install issues?
only thing i had to do was to enlarge the hole where the carbon cainster went because the CAI wouold fit through, other that it all bolted up....
we can compare at the gtg sunday, ill be there with almost the same setup as you, 2.87 pulley thought cause thats what i had sitting around....


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (hubbell)*

I bought a used kit, it had obd2 tubes. I thought the upper was swapped over for an obd1. It wasnt, Also not Corrado tubing, in which the bay is tighter. Who would of thought the MK3 G/J tubing was so different. I guess the C2 kits are really tailored to fit. 
I did not have to enlarge the CAI/canister opening http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Just have to get 1 breathe/catch canr for PCV & clean her up sometime today. 



_Modified by gtimagic at 1:42 AM 11-21-2006_


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

the maiden voyage for thedubNutz rado is tomorrow am. NYC to Annapolis , MD. 4hours of SC excitement . LOL.


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

New Video Links
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=owbK9AycUvM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EpFQyRXJx8


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

The car:

















The Kit:
































the thin metal spacer was not needed for shimming. Pulleys align perfect!
The install




































































































_Modified by gtimagic at 9:31 PM 11-17-2006_


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## vaporado (Aug 14, 2005)

*Re: (gtimagic)*








Thanks for the killer HID kit


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (bumblevee)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bumblevee* »_







Thanks for the killer HID kit

anytime. Glad I could help you see @ night.
ok. I put about 500 miles or so on my car since the install. mixed hi way & NYC driving. 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

~ Here are my impressions and inquires;
Not a huge improvement down low. Barely even a noticeable increase in power until about 3500rpm. 
@ 4800 rpm the power builds heavy & strong until your out of redline. I have shifted @ 7K a few times. 5-6k rpms is the monster zone http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
basically feels very naturally aspirated. Like a more powerful cam. Builds power as rpms rise and builds more as it goes. 
~ The car moves! 3 people, 2 people whatever. She is def. faster








My P zero Neros dont make any noise at all when they slip/peel out. So its sorta hard to tell when you are spinning through the gears. I do not yet have a LSD. I do feel that I am not "hooking up" as best as I can. 
A grippier tire and a LSD will improve traction, launch and acceleration immensely.
The V1 is loud. It makes noise, no hiding it anywhere. You may get used to it, but it still draws attention. 
@ idle there is a very high/loud pitch
@2k rpm its almost totally gone, but you still here the whine of the SC
above 3500 you here a hollow roar of air being drawn/pushed in.
~ my relatively quiet NSPD cat back is much more noticeable. It pushes a lot more air and the idle is a bit lumpier sounding (cams).
~ My MFA MPG reading is a bit exaggerated. I was getting readings of 30+ mpg on the highway. My last fill up has yielded about 255mi and I have 1 notch left. Maybe 275 per tank, (200 were @ 80mph on highway)
Beating on here today showed 12mpg return. 
I previously saw 290-330mpTank
The belt shows no visible wear. Alignment looks to be dead on http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

~Ok, So how does it run!
the PCV on VC needs a breather or better yet a catch can. Fumes are present as is some seepage/drip. 
Starts rich and idles perfect. Today was cold, I was spitting wet soot from exhaust upon warm up. Dont stand behind my car.
revs easily and returns to idle nicely.
part throttle and WOT is good.
~ Driving/under load;
1st gear- off the clutch. fine, no issues.
2nd & 3rd 2200-3200rpm is a bit jerky if part throttle/featering the pedal. Accelerating is good, steady is good, A slow depress of the pedal causes some bucking/jerking. *(this could be nicer)
4/5th- usually above 3k while in these gears. Have not noticed any problems. Drives great @ Part/WOT and doesnt matter where pedal is. Cruises along nicely. 

My real complaints/issues:
jerkiness btwn 2200-3200 rpm. It is actually better to just step into it midway than to feather, or slowly depress here. But then the sudden gas pedal action causes its own jerkiness from just giving too much gas/pedal. Basically fells like its "missing" in this area.
this makes slow moving traffic difficult and results in drive train abuse.
It always stalls when coming to a stop 
http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif














If i depress the clutch anywhere lower than 2000rpm it will stall (2000rpm is really high to be pressing in the clutch, IMO).
I adjusted the "plunger" (?copot) on the TB to add a bit more tension/slower spring return to help this. It worked a little. to say maybe 1800 always, 1500 sometimes. All depends on how fast I stop. 
This makes driving the car really annoying & difficult. Especially in stop & go NYC traffic/slow clutch pumping traffic. You now have to heel & toe or left foot brake to keep the gas up while stopping. Not cool!
basically the idle drops to about 400rpms and then come up & settles around 850 or so. At rest the idle will catch & stay running. At decel/driving it wont catch, the car stalls. 
SO: any tips,tricks or ideas to make the idle better? Not dip so far/stall? 
Thanks in advance. I know it was a long read, but I'd rather it be thorough.


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## hubbell (Oct 30, 2001)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (gtimagic)*

you can remove your egr for starters....should help clean things up some....
also, make sure all boost lines and the belt is tight....


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## abt cup (Aug 1, 2000)

*Re: (gtimagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtimagic* »_
It always stalls when coming to a stop 
http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif














If i depress the clutch anywhere lower than 2000rpm it will stall (2000rpm is really high to be pressing in the clutch, IMO).
: 

The early VF kits that a similar issue. They fixed it by moving the MAF farther away from the inlet of the charger. Something about the air being too turbulent by the inlet.


_Modified by abt cup at 12:04 AM 11-21-2006_


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (hubbell)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hubbell* »_you can remove your egr for starters....should help clean things up some....
also, make sure all boost lines and the belt is tight....

I dont feel as if I am loosing boost, but I also do not yet have a gauge. I have all new vacuum lines that seem pretty tight. On my initial run the line on top of the egr came off and it was sorta weak feeling. Its now zip tied on. 
on a few really hi 6-7k rpm pulls I have felt some "slip", or slight skipping of power i guess. I assumed it was my stock clutch. It 1yr/10K old. FW has about 5K on it. May have been belt. I could try to retighten it in a few hundred miles, but it seems really tight now and I dont want to stress any bearings/pullys 

How will removing the egr help? 
I did shorten the CAI because it placed my filter way too low. I could add a longer coupler I suppose.


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## Jefnes3 (Aug 17, 2001)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (gtimagic)*

Re idle:
remove EGR hardware and plug the 'holes' left behind.
realize this is a ~controlled exhuast leak into the intake
and after some time the valve stops working. (carbon build-up)
on obd1 cars ~90% of the idle issues point to the EGR or ISV valve.

-Jeff


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (Jefnes3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jefnes3* »_Re idle:
remove EGR hardware and plug the 'holes' left behind.
realize this is a ~controlled exhuast leak into the intake
and after some time the valve stops working. (carbon build-up)
on obd1 cars ~90% of the idle issues point to the EGR or ISV valve.

-Jeff

but the EGR was perfect & I had zero issues w/ idle/cams before the SC install. 
same for ISV. 
no codes etc. 
I suppose I could clean the ISV first as it may be working overtime now. 
I only cut the CAI about 1.5" shorter. I dont think that would change the turbulence too much. Especially seeing how long the coupling is.








I will try the EGR removal after the ISV cleaning.. Will this have an effect on anything else? other than throwing a code/CEL ? 
Since my VC breather is wide open right now (no breather/catch can) .. Will this have any effect? 
as it currently sits


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## abt cup (Aug 1, 2000)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (gtimagic)*

VF used a flexy tube to put the MAF farther away from the inlet. My flexy tube is in the shape of an "L" behind the bumper.


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (abt cup)*

well, this is basically my CAI set up. the filter is lower than the charcoal canister when the intake pipe is attached 








Did not get a chance to do much today. Did replace the last vacuum line from chk. valve on firewall to egr connections (running T/Y fittings for vacuum lines here)

The plug for the 2 EGR ports is an oil pan plug right ? 




_Modified by gtimagic at 7:43 PM 11-21-2006_


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## KIEZERJOSE (Feb 15, 2003)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (gtimagic)*

Good to see you got your car running, ditch that EGR and see how it goes.. I was having the same problem but then all of the sudden it went away, not sure what it was but it was gone and fine with me


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## abt cup (Aug 1, 2000)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (KIEZERJOSE)*

I don't see how if the EGR wasn't bad to begin with all of a sudden be bad now?
Maybe the ECU just needs to be re adapted.


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (abt cup)*

Thanks for the info jose-
I have now put about 600mi. on since install. Its been 5 days, all sorts of temps, cold starts, hot starts and oh so many re starts after stalling. City, hi way, cruising all gears, rpms, etc. I would hope the ECU adjusted by now. 
So, it could be:
~vacuum leak? not sure where, every hose has been replace, re tightened every clamp and inspected entire system
~Turbulence from CAI. I only shortened it 1.5" ? I have seen kits w/ filter mounted right on the charger,, & post SC MAF's. I dont think so, its fine until there in no suction. Happens when I decelerate.
~EGR- worked 100% fine before, now it may be an issue? Cant really see how, but may remove it anyway just to explore the results.
~ ISV , also worked fine and had no prior issues. I can clean it and I may be even able to swap it out for another to see if I get any change. Idle here is fine, again, its the decel stalling
idle dips too low (400rpm) and then If I'm lucky it stays running & catches @ 830 ish? 
I may also do a full delete of the heated PCV tube and vacuum lines to see if this makes any difference. But these connect to the charcoal canister lines, so that would mean a delete of that too. 
*On cold morning starts, it now needs 2-3x start to stay running, unless I keep the pedal depressed slightly for a few seconds. It actually takes longer to warm up. 
Appreciate everyones help on this. I will try 1 adjustment at a time to figure it out.











_Modified by gtimagic at 11:49 PM 11-21-2006_


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## LBSOHK (Nov 16, 2003)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (abt cup)*

damn how did I miss that... Greg just told me about your car today ...congrats


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

thanks Art. Just trying to work out the bugs to make her run more my style. I dont like to compromise. Congrats on the quick sale of that Schrick. IM me if you have any other goodies FS


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## hubbell (Oct 30, 2001)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (gtimagic)*

removing the egr somehow seems to help with driveability. it also makes the path the boost travles simpler which can never hurt. beyond that, it is not used in the C2 programming so if nothing else it was not programmed with it in mind so get rid of it....i noticed a difference by just unplugging mine. to remove it i got caps for the intake and exhuast manifold where it went in and that was it. very easy...


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## spooln6 (May 27, 2005)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (abt cup)*



abt cup said:


> You need the ISV. There should be a fitting on the inlet tube that will let you plug in the fitting for the ISV.
> 
> 
> > you dont need the isv i dont have it hooked up in my car


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (spooln6)*

After welding an ISV inlet on that pipe, the ISV is gonna stay .. Also, Chris said I needed it & did not mention its removal. 

pic from above http://img.photobucket.com/alb...9.jpg
the vacuum hose w/ the audi logo on it in that pic is connected to the "diaphragm" with the little arrow on it. (see the metal factory clamp). Well I found that clamp to be loose yesterday, So I replaced it. Its pre diaphragm, it make a difference in power, but the stalling issue is still there. 
Since the VC outlet is just wide open (even w/ extension hose/breather), if I remove the valve & vacuum mess, Wouldnt that be a huge leak? 
It seems like that diaphragm acts like a 1 way chk. valve or something, I am not 100%.
Those lines connect to the Charcoal canister. I just dont want to removal them & have it "snowball" into more issues/other components.


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

Ok, I removed & cleaned the ISV today. .. made little to no difference.

I removed the VC hose w/ heated element and capped off the 2 vacuum lines (1 at TB, other an inline valve (blue) on the charcoal canisters return line... made no difference
So I re installed that portion as shown in the last pic above. I hust added a 3/4" hose to the end. It now routes through ther CAI opening on the rail and past the char. canister to about the middle of the lip. It will drip onto the inside of the lip for now. i didnt want it near the tires. On a rado, there are not too many places to easily run a 3/4 hose and have it not kink, etc. This will do for now. Maybe some elbows or a catch can will be added later on. 

I just unplugged the 1 EGR elec. plug that is just aboit under the plug wire guide. I will see what this does in just a few... I'll be back


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## abt cup (Aug 1, 2000)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (spooln6)*


_Quote »_
you dont need the isv i dont have it hooked up in my car

Then how does your car idle? Your butterfly is pretty much shut at idle...the air is rerouted thru the ISV. Unless you turned the screw on the throttle body and upped the idle.
You can remove it for the sake of removing it...but if its functioning...there is no reason to remove it.


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (abt cup)*

the EGR being electrically unplugged made no difference. It still stalls. Not every single time now, but still way too much. Last resort, remove egr totally.


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## spooln6 (May 27, 2005)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (abt cup)*

jeff said the software does it
_Quote, originally posted by *abt cup* »_
Then how does your car idle? Your butterfly is pretty much shut at idle...the air is rerouted thru the ISV. Unless you turned the screw on the throttle body and upped the idle.
You can remove it for the sake of removing it...but if its functioning...there is no reason to remove it.


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## abt cup (Aug 1, 2000)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (spooln6)*

Really? How does software eliminate the need for a mechanical bypass(ISV)?


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## abt cup (Aug 1, 2000)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (gtimagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtimagic* »_the EGR being electrically unplugged made no difference. It still stalls. Not every single time now, but still way too much. Last resort, remove egr totally.









Give it a shot and see what happens. I may go the same route.
My car is doing something similar right now. My RPM's will drop...but not to the point of stalling. It only occurs if I've been on the gas hard. I just think that my EGR is getting clogged.
A test to see if the EGR is functioning: Hook up a vaccum pump to the EGR at idle...then squeeze the pump. The car should bog and sputter to the point of stalling or should stall. If your car does that...the EGR should be good...if not...then it may be dirty or bad. To test the EGR solenoid, use a Vag Com and perform the output test...you should be able to hear the solenoid click.


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (abt cup)*

Chris also said I needed to use the ISV. Remember, I have the OBD2 piping, my idle was crap. Cycles of up & down. He did not mention removing it, he said I needed to connect the ISV tube. 
~ maybe Jeff or Chris will chime in on this one ?
I unplugged the EGR electrical connection like mentioned earlier, I now have disconnected the electrical connection on the EGR solenoid. The idle immedietly seem to sound livelier, maybe it went up like 20-50 rpms. The cycling sound of the SC is now a constant even sound. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
It really does seem to stall less frequently since I have done this last step (unplug EGR solenoid harness, not vacuum lines), but its not 100%. It still does stall. It never, ever stalled B4 SC install
- Could be my adaptation to the driving style. 
Really trying to keep my "stalling" tests very similar. (speeds, gears, how fast I slow/stop, and how far/low I can get the rpms b4 I press the clutch in w/o stalling. 
Its started to rain & rush hour traffic has ended by tests for today.
I'll put up some pics in a few. 
Thanks everyone








oh- Q?~ Is it possible to clean the EGR ? Just use some carb cleaner in there ?


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

todays pics
What I unplugged (EGR plug) 








also unplugged the solenoid plug here (did this last, it made most difference)








braided line is from the blue valve along the firewall. The vertical line goes directly to the DV. The T fitting here connects all lines to the larger plastic line that routes along the head up towards the FPR.

















opposite view & the hard plastic line they all connect into









this blue valve is inline on the charcoal canister return line and it has a vacuum line to the VC breather fitting. (the small 1 on top)









an over all of the new VC breather setup. basically just ran a hose to drip elsewhere. The heated element is still connected , but not visible in this pic











_Modified by gtimagic at 8:34 PM 11-22-2006_


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

plugs are gapped to .022 
is this too small? 

Happy Thanksgiving
























_Modified by gtimagic at 9:39 AM 11-23-2006_


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## spooln6 (May 27, 2005)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (abt cup)*

donk know but b 4 i did that the car would run fine untill i hit boost as soon as i was under boost the car would shut off. so i unplugged the isv and now the car run gr88888888 yes i do under stand what you are talking about the isv is unplugged and runs well I am not b s n at all 

_Quote, originally posted by *abt cup* »_Really? How does software eliminate the need for a mechanical bypass(ISV)?


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (spooln6)*

taking a 600 mi road trip this wkend. Will try to remove EGR today or when away.
Its def. better than when 1st installed, but still does occasionally stall when stopping quickly


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## VR62NV (Sep 28, 2001)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (gtimagic)*

Great thread man. I am watching it closely seeing as I am installing a V2 as we speak on my Corrado. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## MarcoVR6SC (May 3, 2003)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (gtimagic)*

Hi, nice car http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
As already mentioned, you need to lengthen the intake pipe (at least 1 feet) between MAF and compressor intake, where the rerouting is welded. Then another 3-4 inches between MAF and air filter. That stopped the stalling problem on my previous VF Stage II kit (ODBI). I know it’s a tight fit in a Corrado, but it’s doable (without the charcoal canister). 
A second note, you seem to be missing a check valve between the line from the charcoal canister solenoid valve and throttle body. You’ll lose some boost if you don’t have it. You should mount it just before the throttle body.


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (MarcoVR6SC)*

Congrats on the SC. I think you'll luv it, if it installs & runs perfectly. 
Thank you, this car is almost done. Peloquin is next. I would luv the 6spd from my GLI in here. 
I'll have to take those measurements. Maybe extend the filter coupling. The MAF was not welded, just relocated. (Filter onto MAF, MAF onto coupling, Coupling to CAI pipe to charger.) as shown above (mostly) 
I would have to run the filter @ a 90* angle before the MAF to gain any length. Maybe I'll just try a flex tube temporarily to se if it make any change.
the blue chk. valve is inline on the charcoal canister to VC 
http://img.photobucket.com/alb...1.jpg
Have to leave in a few, ran out of daylight yesterday, Will have to remove EGR when I return.
Thanks everyone. 

just saw this on dapduckers post http://www.hostdub.com/albums/...d.jpg I have this chk. valve installed. Its just kinda hard to seem. I did have to remove the rubber band bracket due to DV hose 


_Modified by gtimagic at 8:39 AM 11-25-2006_


----------



## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: C2 V1 SC on OBD1 Corrado- Video, Install & questions (gtimagic)*

Ok, so its now been 1600 mi since install. Yeah, I did some driving these past 10 days. Just returned from a 700mi road trip this weekend. About 650 of straight highway driving. 
The MFA is no longer accurate. I dont get 36mpg








With 90% highway milage doing 75-85mph (3-4krpm) CDM trans. I am seeing about 300 per 18.5 gal tank. I lost about 10-15% fuel milage. But who buys a SC to increase your fuel economy. Its thirsty, no big deal.








How it was configured & ran these last 700mi. :
w/ EGR & solenoid elec. unplugged. All vacuum lines checked, heated element on VC w/ "drip" hose. Charcoal canister is in OEM configuration. 
Great on the highway, mostly. 
If i decl or back off the pedal while cruising in 5th. Its fine. If the rpms come down too much, it hesitates after I step back into pedal to accelerate. 
3 or 4 times it actually backfired, but in the INTAKE. POP!, small internal explosion..








4th gear driving seems to be the best. Maybe cause its an accelerating gear? Never cruising in fourth unless the revs are up to pass, etc.
Stalling actually seemed better (less frequent) before the trip (after Solenoid unplugged). 
~ It is now back to its usual self. Stalling when stopping, or slowing about 80% of the time. Its a real PITA to drive & quite annoying. Especially in post holiday, returning NYC traffic.
~ Can we say crawling aggravation, pop starts, loopy idle and heel/toe, LF braking to keep it "alive" http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
still feels flooded, or delayed (2 sec) when rpms are low in 2/3rd gears. Tends to be jerky/buck here. 
Bottom line, Its not any better, Its still pisses me off and I see no solution in sight








Whats next:
Completely remove the EGR & solenoid today, re route some of the now deleted vacuum lines. 
Unplug the TPS
Run a 90* elbow fitting on my MAF to extend the filter further away, hoping to eliminate the "turbulence" theory. Its tight down here, not really sure if this is even possible. May just have to extend it 120* towards the front(past canister, or further down/lower straight). 



_Modified by gtimagic at 9:37 PM 11-27-2006_


----------



## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

ok, In trying to avoid the CAI extension & EGR delete, I believe I may have just found a cure. 
Unplugging the TPS just makes the car rev @ 2200rpm, no matter if warm or cold. ~ Not a solution for me.
I next tried various combinations of harness unpluggings of the EGR, Solenoid & now the ISV.
If I just unplug the ISV elec. harness, the car seems to rev just a bit higher. maybe 875/900, not sure, but under 1k for sure. I know it raises cause the pitch of the V1 changes and is quieter. It is also more constant and not as lumpy. 
Driving is perfect as far as stalling goes. It does not happen !! , I tried to make it stall & I couldn't. It was like my pre- SC install. NORMAL, just right, perfect! Easy to drive, no dipping rpm's, no stallings, easy to clutch and feather the pedal.
WOW!~ Could this be it/ and why... not that I really care why, but kinda. The ISV is still connected hose wise, just not electrically. 
Hhmmn- What If I re connect the EGR & solenoid plugs? . ...So, I did ~ I get the somewhat lower, lumpy idle back.. but it still does not dip, nor stall. 
So this is how I will drive it for a little while to see if the upper rpm hesitation, bucking and all stalling issue disappear. 
Looks like I went through about 1/4 qt. oil in 1600mi. Not bad I guess. I have been driving her hard.
She still smells kinda rich to me & the oil smells a bit like fuel as well. Although nothing has appeared to mix. 
Concerns:
_Are there any cons to driving this way (ISV unplugged)?
_The EGR seems to be a separate system, Will I gain any boost benefits if I just remove the EGR system?
_If I do, should I completely remove the Solenoid as well ?
Do ppl. cap off or thread in a plug when deleting EGR? 
cap seems easier, just cant seem to find a proper threaded cap. 



_Modified by gtimagic at 9:41 PM 11-27-2006_


----------



## VR62NV (Sep 28, 2001)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

I unplugged the ISV on my G60 and it made the idle smooth and it runs great BUT the only problem I have is at startup when the engine is cold. I have to keep my foot on the gas to get it warmed up. How is the VR6 on start up with the ISV uplugged?
Off topic, how did you guys extend the MAF harness? Did you just cut and splice or do you have any better ideas. I would like to create a harness to attach to the stock one instead of cutting it. Also, what vacuum line did you guys tap into for the DV?


----------



## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (VR62NV)*

well, since I kept test driving and making changes, the car was hot when I discovered the ISV solution. I will know the cold start results tomorrow. 
As far as Vacuum tap for the DV. Most ppl recommended the brake booster.

See pic- I added a T fitting here and the DV line is the vertical line(off the braided line" T"). It runs accross the top of intake mani (under plug wire holder) and just T's in here
http://img.photobucket.com/alb...2.jpg
this & most all other vacuum lines tap into the larger, hard plastic vacuum line that runs along the DS of the head. 
I just extended my MAF wires by cutting & soldering an extension wire of the same gauge. Used heat shrink tubing & then wrapped entire extension into bay. That was also a good time to sand, clean & dielec. grease the MAF pins. a few were getting crusty green. 


_Modified by gtimagic at 9:43 PM 11-27-2006_


----------



## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

So, the car has sat & I've had 2 "cold starts" today. It starts a little rough since the ISV is unplugged. The idle moves from 500-900 rpm, but doesn't stall. the car shakes a bit due to the mounts and rough idle, but can be steadied by the gas pedal. After about 2 mins or a few blocks of driving, its fine. It doesn't stall and then runs great once warmed up. 
Since I unplugged & tried soo many things, I'm sure it threw some codes and such. 
I will either reset the ECU or disconnect the battery overnight. Then I'll see how she starts from a fresh stand point. 

Jeff or Chris care to comment on the ISV unplugging or anything else? please chime in. 

Again- next test is to run a few days w/ Solenoid unplugged and then just remove the EGR completely. 
Since its actually drivable & I no longer want to remove the SC (yes, it was getting to that point,... drivability is more important than HP in my book) It now feels like









Concerns:
_Are there any cons to driving this way (ISV unplugged)?
_The EGR seems to be a separate system, Will I gain any boost benefits if I just remove the EGR system?
_If I do, should I completely remove the Solenoid as well ?
Do ppl. cap off or thread in a plug when deleting EGR? 
cap seems easier, just cant seem to find a proper threaded cap.

_Modified by gtimagic at 9:45 PM 11-27-2006_


_Modified by gtimagic at 9:35 AM 12-3-2006_


----------



## abt cup (Aug 1, 2000)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

The EGR won't get you any power gains.
You can plug the EGR hole in the manifold with a oil pan drain plug.
If I do remove my EGR...its going to be all of it. Just do the resistor trick for the plugs.
I've never driven without my ISV...car idles like crap without it.


----------



## KIEZERJOSE (Feb 15, 2003)

*Re: (abt cup)*

The OBD1 software is crazy man.. I could only make my car run right with the TPS unplugged, a few other people have done it with the ISV unplugged. Why, i have no clue but thats just how it is for some crazy reason. There was a big thread on the C2 OBD1 software and jeff said he would fix it, the problem was he never got a OBD1 SC car to his shop so we have all been playing with it til we figure out how it runs right. Aside from that the software is very good, having it run rich is good because you can slap some big cams and it will be perfect








Good to hear you got it running right though http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## VR62NV (Sep 28, 2001)

*Re: (KIEZERJOSE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KIEZERJOSE* »_ Aside from that the software is very good, having it run rich is good because you can slap some big cams and it will be perfect









Nice, I have 268 cams so I should be a very happy camper.








Hey gtimagic, when did you get your software? I got mine within the last few months and I'm hoping Jeff fixed this problem.


----------



## hubbell (Oct 30, 2001)

*Re: (VR62NV)*

i did see some boost increase from removing the EGR, nothing huge but im sure i was losing a tiny bit thourgh all the extra vac lines and such. maybe boost came on better too....
just remove it, itll be one more thing not to worry about. i was going to take the car to jeff but in the end he is far and i swapped to obd2 to fix the issue. mine ran fine idle wise but it would buck when going into boost when i hit say 2-4 psi the car would buck unless i was flooring it thorugh the gear, 5th gear wouldn always buck and 4th mostly too. i hear obd2 solves all driving issues so ill let you know whow it goes...


----------



## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (VR62NV)*

I am running 262's w/ a MK4 HG, its still quite rich. I have not dynoed yet, but It seems like it wont be lean even around 6500rpm/10psi. I'll take rich over lean any day.
I got my new chip from C2 about 1.5mo ago. Before that I was following the other thread and had asked Jeff if he needed a car for testing. (obd1 30# coilpack, corrado ECU 258 BA) He said he didnt. Apparently the programing is different for the G/J and those are where most of the problems were. 
More testing, then probably complete EGR/Solenoid delete, as well as the VC heated element fittings w/ vacuum lines.


----------



## VR62NV (Sep 28, 2001)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

I have the same ECU #. I am running 268 cams. We'll see how things run. I will probably have to go through the same ordeal as you.


----------



## hubbell (Oct 30, 2001)

*Re: (VR62NV)*

i was running the SC on a G/J fuel system.....


----------



## KIEZERJOSE (Feb 15, 2003)

*Re: (VR62NV)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VR62NV* »_I have the same ECU #. I am running 268 cams. We'll see how things run. I will probably have to go through the same ordeal as you. 

The 268's are sweet with the SC, i had that set up with the 36# injectors, MK4 head gasket, 12 psi and the fuel was dead on. the idle sounds wild too http://youtube.com/watch?v=U24Ut38V-_w









gtimagic - You are close to jeff, if i was you i would bring the car over to him. Im sure he can get 110% out of your set up and maybe up-date his software at the same time. I was going to take the drive up to CT but im down south (FL) way too far for me lol..


----------



## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (KIEZERJOSE)*

I offered to bring my Corrado to Jeff in CT about 2 mos ago. He was not interested. 
I have a base line dyno (P chip, pulleys CAI)
I never did re dyno after cams, LWFW, HG, & GIAC
I will re dyno @ the same location once I get things straitened out. I will probably just remove the EGR/Solenoid & some other things b4 I do this. I would also like to install 2 gauges (Duo Style AF (light show, I know) & the VDO boost from 42draft


----------



## vaporado (Aug 14, 2005)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

I wanna see video


----------



## Jefnes3 (Aug 17, 2001)

*Re: (gtimagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtimagic* »_I offered to bring my Corrado to Jeff in CT about 2 mos ago. He was not interested. 


Don't misunderstand my response as a total lack of interest.
Your software (258BA ecu) : I had access to the original test car
for an extended period of time, since the owner is a close friend of mine. I currently do need a test car for further development.
The original car and other BA ecu cars all seem to run ~normal (to my knowledge)
If you want specific adjustments made for your set-up we can work something out.
-Jeff


----------



## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (Jefnes3)*

I totally understand Jeff. The work on that ECU was done. 
UPDATE- 
Well, it starts rough when cold since the ISV is unplugged. It will idle hard @ about 500rpms all by its self. It doesnt stall and is drivable too. It takes about 4 mins. in 50-60*F weather to warm up & idle normally.
If I unplug the EGR solenoid as well as the ISV is runs nice, even when cold. It drives nice as well. (as previously stated) 
still waiting for highway testing


_Modified by gtimagic at 9:41 AM 12-3-2006_


----------



## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (Jefnes3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jefnes3* »_
If you want specific adjustments made for your set-up we can work something out.
-Jeff

IM sent, after todays dyno I'm interested..








Today duboutcast & I removed the EGR & solenoid completely. I also removed the VC heated breather element and capped off the blue chk. valve on the charcoal canister, TB, etc. 


_Modified by gtimagic at 9:43 PM 12-2-2006_


----------



## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

where does everyone tap there boost gauge into for best readings? 
Should I unplug the elec. connection to the blue chk. valve on the charcoal canister line? 
~The vacuum that was going to the VC is now removed & its been securely capped.


----------



## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

I dynoed the car today,4 pulls w/ A/F. rather disappointed w/ results. 

Boost does not register at all, until after 4K rpms or so. only builds to 8psi, 9psi once. Comes on really slowly. I have the 2.87 pulley & tightened the belt earlier today. 
Also triple checked the vacuum fittings. 
Car seems to "skip" or .. have jagged, "spiky" power deliver. This is evident on plot and by looking at the motor shake. Can also feel occasionally when driving or just revving. Not consistent.
Car does BACKFIRE through the INTAKE, almost like it loads up & then pop! This has happened about 6-7 times now. 

However, it does idle like a champ







The vacuum line off the ISV to intake tube is capped. (??) Should I tap this back into the system? (the ISV is not connected electrically) 

Looking for help, Thanks










_Modified by gtimagic at 1:05 AM 12-3-2006_


----------



## abt cup (Aug 1, 2000)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

Your not going to hit max boost at redline. I won't hit 8psi until about 7k. 
Boost on a SC is dependent on the engine speed. 
I tapped into my FPR for the boost gauge.
You might have fueling/spark/timing issues?


----------



## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (abt cup)*


_Quote, originally posted by *abt cup* »_Your not going to hit max boost at redline. I won't hit 8psi until about 7k. 
Boost on a SC is dependent on the engine speed. 
I tapped into my FPR for the boost gauge.
You might have fueling/spark/timing issues?
 
What pulley are you running, my 2.87 should see 11 psi, @6500 I only see 8
It would seem that at least some boost (1-2 lbs) would read below 4500rpm ?
I used the boost gauge right after the DV, a T fitting right around the VC breather area, say 10" after the DV
I concur, I do believe I may have some timing, spark, chip issues.


----------



## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

heres the dyno video from the last run. 
Lean AF, jagged plot, low HP numbers, low & late boost 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WDZ-YFV9S5U 
Great way to start page 3


----------



## abt cup (Aug 1, 2000)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

Two things that can possibly cause low boost...one is the most obvious, the slipping belt and the other could possibly a blockage on the exhaust side.
I don't know my pulley size...I just know its the stage 2 8psi pulley. I rarely see 8psi though...because I'd have to constantly be at redline.


----------



## KIEZERJOSE (Feb 15, 2003)

*Re: (Jefnes3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jefnes3* »_
If you want specific adjustments made for your set-up we can work something out.
-Jeff


I say you take him up on his offer. what ever he charges you will be worth it. 
what where the #'s you got on the dyno? can you post the sheet?


----------



## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (KIEZERJOSE)*

the vid is up, shows @ the end. best of 4 runs was 199HP . My non cam'ed base from same shop was 159h/162t. I added 262's, maintenance, LWFW, MK4 HG
If I cant get it figured out very soon I may have to see Jeff in Jan.


----------



## DubOutcast (Sep 29, 2006)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

U gap those plugs yet?


----------



## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (DubOutcast)*

did it today. It was flashlight time when I got to the 6th.. .022 to .026 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## hubbell (Oct 30, 2001)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

turst me here...with that kind of stuff happening, a little thing like the plugs is doubtful IMO atleast it didnt change anything for me....consider this, on my OBD1 setup i hit 14 psi at redline with a 9:1 compression and made only 207 WHP....so if you factor in your 10:1 compression and 8 psi, sounds close....it is hard to say for sure but i think you should take your car to jeff, youre close and the OBD1 just never did seem 100% right. we got close but enevr 100% right. also, what FPR are you using? you should ask jeff that too, different year cars use different FPR so who knows what he chipped it to....


----------



## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (hubbell)*

I didnt expect the gaping to do much. But looking @ my dyno vids & talking w/ Jeff, it seems that the timing is being pulled. 
We have spoken about my C2 chip. its right for the car/ECU
I am running a stk. 4 bar FPR
I plan to chk. some things out soon and if its not better, I will take to Jeff sometime in Jan. when he is available. 
I know there are plenty of set ups w/ hi compression, that yield good results. Kieserjose is one of them. 
I need to buy a boost gauge, an inline FP gauge, and redyno at another shop. 
I may change my fuel pump relay (cause I have a spare & its cheap)
any other cheap trial & error seat of the pants testing I can do in the meantime ? LMK


----------



## abt cup (Aug 1, 2000)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

Switch to OBD 2.








All the OBD 2 cars I've seen dyno higher than the OBD 1.


----------



## hubbell (Oct 30, 2001)

*Re: (abt cup)*


_Quote, originally posted by *abt cup* »_Switch to OBD 2.








All the OBD 2 cars I've seen dyno higher than the OBD 1.

this is what i did....its been cold so i havent totally finished it but ill let you know how it differs when im done....


----------



## abt cup (Aug 1, 2000)

*Re: (hubbell)*

One of the locals out here did it. Wasn't too bad.
MAF, ECU, Harness, TB, Manifold...
A huge plus is that it gets rid of the EGR and ISV.


----------



## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (abt cup)*

I already got rid of the EGR, and trhe ISV is unplugged. It runns better w/o it. 
I drove w/o the TPS sensor today, I did nt like it. wasnt any more powerful, but the idles sorta hunted and dipped some on stops. Much smoother plugged in. This is the first drive since the re gap. No difference that I could tell. 
Kinda weird, but if I open a vaccum fitting after the DV, it kinda sounds better. This line off the DV always sucks in air. Is this correct? @ idle and under boost...
I should go test drive it w/o this vacuum cap.


----------



## abt cup (Aug 1, 2000)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

The DV is open at idle and partial throttle. Its shut at full throttle.


----------



## VR62NV (Sep 28, 2001)

*Re: (abt cup)*

I got my VR running and it idles great and has great power. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif to C2. I have not driven it enough to see if it will have the same problems but if the idle and the short drive I took is any indication then it doesn't look like I will be having the same issues as you. 
Just a thought, when you extended your MAF wires what connectors did you use? Have you checked your connections? I knew extending that could lead to issues so I took a lot of time to make sure I did it right. I soldered it then checked for continuity along the entire extension. Maybe your issue is a bad connection on the extension? Not trying to say you didn't do a good job but sh*t happens. I would double check to make sure all your connections on the MAF extension are solid.


----------



## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (VR62NV)*

well, glad that somebodys C2 kit is working good. 
congrats!
What ECu do you have ?
I MAF was extended using matching ga. wire, soldered, heat shrinked and then friction taped. good idea though. I even sanded the pins and used dielectric grease. 
Mine droves veru well for the most part, just doesnt make the power and retards timing.


----------



## VR62NV (Sep 28, 2001)

*Re: (gtimagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtimagic* »_well, glad that somebodys C2 kit is working good. 
congrats!
What ECu do you have ?
I MAF was extended using matching ga. wire, soldered, heat shrinked and then friction taped. good idea though. I even sanded the pins and used dielectric grease. 
Mine droves veru well for the most part, just doesnt make the power and retards timing. 


Sounds like you did a good job on the MAF but you may want to check just in case. Who knows. I'm hoping I don't have the same issues but like I said I only drove it around the block so I'm not sure what it will be like after driving to work and fully warmed up. It does idle very well and sounds sweeeeeeeeet. My ECU ends in BA I believe. I'll check for sure.


----------



## KIEZERJOSE (Feb 15, 2003)

*Re: (VR62NV)*

man what are you waiting for, i would have test driven the hell out of it by now


----------



## VR62NV (Sep 28, 2001)

*Re: (KIEZERJOSE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KIEZERJOSE* »_man what are you waiting for, i would have test driven the hell out of it by now









My t-stat is siezed







I am in the process of swapping it out for a new one but haven't had a lot of time due to work. Believe me, it's killin me. It felt damn good the one time around the block.


----------



## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (VR62NV)*

Anyone have pics of an inline Fuel pressure gauge? I need to see the mounting/T fitting. Cant seem to find this anywhere.


----------



## KIEZERJOSE (Feb 15, 2003)

*Re: (gtimagic)*









Thats how i have my gauge hooked up, i got it from USRT


----------



## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

thanks , I oprdered my inline FP gauge/fitting and Boost gauge today. I found anbothe rplace to dyno after I do some more testing.
I may try & remove the ISV completely(not just unplugged) 
Where the Boost!


----------



## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

New therory on AF/boost readings- 
My "open to atmosphere" PCV may cause my incorrect AF readings and could also be a source for boost leak?
What do you think?
There are no directions or provisions on the C2 upper intake tube for the PCV. 
concerns-
~ tap into upper intake tube= oil TB mess, vapour drip down into the DV.
~ tap back in to the upper pipe or CAI pipe after the MAF, and then MAF gets oily.
foreseeable option- Route this to a closed loop, non breather catch can.. 
that adds costs, space concerns and a catch can that is small, but excepts a 3/4" in/out fitting. Must have petcock and not have a filter.


----------



## VR62NV (Sep 28, 2001)

*Re: (gtimagic)*



This is my oil catch/breather. I got it on ebay cheap. Works good.


----------



## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

Can I tap the DV vacuum line into the TB fitting that has now been capped? 
This is a much shorter line & frees up 2 connection points.


----------



## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

get back up there... BumP
we aint over yet!


----------



## DubOutcast (Sep 29, 2006)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

u get ur gauges in yet?


----------



## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (DubOutcast)*

I got my fuel pressure gauge yesterday and the Boost today. It gonna rain tomorrow so I doubt ther egoing in. Gonna do my red tail tints while indoors.


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

any change in the intake backfires?


----------



## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DeckManDubs* »_any change in the intake backfires?
 no still have them. 
Gauges go in today, but my tial lights are out so I cant drive it till like Tuesday. (Jons tinted tails) 
I have sprung an oil leak from "below" the charger... and its not the inlet. Either return or charger. I can only see it misting


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (gtimagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtimagic* »_ no still have them. 
Gauges go in today, but my tial lights are out so I cant drive it till like Tuesday. (Jons tinted tails) 
I have sprung an oil leak from "below" the charger... and its not the inlet. Either return or charger. I can only see it misting 

Prolly the return is leaking. Did you pull your injector harness off at anytime? A buddy of mine had intake back fires and those were comming from him mixing up injector 1 and 2 I believe. When does it do it WOT, snapped throttle, under load?


----------



## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (DeckManDubs)*

I'm hoping its only the return line leaking and not something charger related. I'll quit @ this point if thats the case. Sell er & Schrick it!
My mech did the install and the injectors were changed ffrom stk to 30# @ that point. 
It happens @ low rpms in 5th, not under load. Just barely on the gas pedal. 
Basic scenario is this- Drive in 5th arounf 3/4000rpms. let off gas or just feather the pedal to maintain a slower speed while still in 5th. Step back into the pedal slightly to accelerate.. POP! not flooring it, just lightly/moderate accelerating again. 
Like there too much un burned fuel somewhere, then it explodes or something. 

* If I rev the car while parked, I can see the oil mist spraying from under the charger. Its also wet(oil) on the top of frame rail there and it now is misting onto the bels causing a chain effect from the circling pullys/belts.. making the entire sysytem wet. 
Unfortunately I can not work on the car where I pay to park it and I dont have my tails in til early next week. So I can only "look" around til then

Thanks for your help


----------



## hubbell (Oct 30, 2001)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

just go obd2, and also have you installed your boost gauge yet? would like to know where your vac is at......i started up my obd2 charger setup, vac is at 20 and although i havent driven it yet ill bet it will go fine this time around. i honestly still think the obd1 chip does not do well with a charger.....i cant prove this and dont know for sure but id love to take a stock obd1 car running fine before boost, put the c2 charger on and then see what happens. id also like to then take it to jeff and see if he finds something. i think obd1 retards the timing too much and makes things get too hot and what ever else timing messes with and i just think he needs a car to get the obd1 stuff as good as the obd2 stuff. i had one oil leak im fixing and then hopefully this week i will be driving the car. ill def give my impressions asap. will also try to get a dyno done sometime soon....atloeast i know it runs and starts and has proper vac, now to fix the leak and im golden....if i burn a clutch i wont mind because atleast i did it for a good reason.


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## VR62NV (Sep 28, 2001)

*Re: (hubbell)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hubbell* »_just go obd2, and also have you installed your boost gauge yet? would like to know where your vac is at......i started up my obd2 charger setup, vac is at 20 and although i havent driven it yet ill bet it will go fine this time around. i honestly still think the obd1 chip does not do well with a charger.....i cant prove this and dont know for sure but id love to take a stock obd1 car running fine before boost, put the c2 charger on and then see what happens. id also like to then take it to jeff and see if he finds something. i think obd1 retards the timing too much and makes things get too hot and what ever else timing messes with and i just think he needs a car to get the obd1 stuff as good as the obd2 stuff. i had one oil leak im fixing and then hopefully this week i will be driving the car. ill def give my impressions asap. will also try to get a dyno done sometime soon....atloeast i know it runs and starts and has proper vac, now to fix the leak and im golden....if i burn a clutch i wont mind because atleast i did it for a good reason.

You're right, you can't prove it. He doesn't need OBD2 and C2's chip works great with OBD1. I have a V2SQ charger on my 12V VR6 '94 Corrado and it runs awesome. The idle is perfect, the boost is great and the car feels stock but with much more power. My car ran perfect before and runs perfect now. I have the stock MAF, 30# injectors, C2 CAI, C2 upper intake with ISV bung and DV bung. I am also running 268 cams, Sachs clutch with autotech lightweight steel flywheel. I have not had to unplug anything to make it run better. Something was wrong prior to installing the supercharger on his car and the supercharger just made it worse or the mechanic screwed something up. I am very impressed with C2's chip and after hearing all the horror stories about guys cars running bad and having to unplug the tps or the isv I was very happy to feel how the car ran once I got everything installed. It truly does run as though it was stock and if you couldn't hear the charger you wouldn't know anything different was under the hood. Of course, when I step on the gas I feel that it is far from stock.
The only difference I can see between our two setups is I have 268 cams and he has 262 cams and I have a coilpack and he probably has a distributor. Could the C2 software work better with a coilpack car? I even have a Neuspeed exhaust like gtimagic so our setups are nearly the same. I say you go through the install again, take off the intake manifold and check those injectors, recheck the MAF extension. Like I said, I haven't had to unplug ANYTHING and the car runs perfect.


_Modified by VR62NV at 6:12 PM 12-16-2006_


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

Well, I wont go OBD2. I dont feel I should have to. The kit is advertised as an OBD1 kit and therefore should work correctly. 
I have a 94 and like all 94's its a COILPACK. From what Jeff has noticed and what is clearly visble in my dyno runs/plot the timing is being retarded. I am not running hot at all though, maybe EGT?, but not my engine/liquids. 
Jeff has said multiple times that he does not need a Colipack OBD1 Corrado for testing. The software was written based on extensive testing of this set up on his friends car. I am therefore to assume there wil be no "re writing " of software for the market for 'Coilpack Corrado OBD1 ECU's (258BA)'. My offer to bring in my car for software "testing" was kindly refused. Jeff has however mentioned I could bring my car to his shop for an "over all" testing or custom chip. 
My upper intake pipe also has the ISV & DV bungs, but it clearly runs better with the ISV unplugged. (the solutuion to my stalling probelms)
I highly doubt my mech. screwed something up. The kit is a pretty basic, but time consuming install. 
To verify any possible mistakes I will unwrap the MAF wires and double chk. and then also confirm proper injector harness wiring. 
These are the only 2 possible variables in the electrics of the SC setup. Its purely mechanical other than software. 

VR62NV, I guess you are surely a "lucky" one. Cause digging through the archives, it seems that no one has had a completely 'issue free install'. The problems are similar and the solutions vary widely.
Now dont get me wrong, I assumed the same thing when reading all the posts b4 I got my kit. "Oh, those are swaps, oh, those guys had something rigged up (no offense), oh, thats only the G/J software (which is different BTW)...etc.." Well, I had ZERO problems before the install, now I am in 'Daily Diagnostics' mode. 
I do appreciate everyones help and input, but lets not assume, ok. 
My car was running right, now it doesnt. Thats a fact!
Whats Next: I will check those variables, fix the new oil leak, get some proper readings from my brand new gauges and a new dyno run from another highly reputable shop w/ a new dyno. 
After this, if problems still occur, I'll then take it to Jeff in CT. sometime in Jan. 

_Modified by gtimagic at 10:09 PM 12-16-2006_


_Modified by gtimagic at 10:36 AM 3-30-2007_


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## VR62NV (Sep 28, 2001)

*Re: (gtimagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtimagic* »_
VR62NV, I guess you are surely a "lucky" one. Cause digging through the archives, it seems that no one has had a completely 'issue free install'. The problems are similar and the solutions vary widely.

Believe me, I feel lucky considering all I have read from you and others. I would really like to see you resolve your issue and get this thing running right. Def check that MAF extension. You never know what could have happened after you finished taping it up. Maybe a connection came loose or something. I remember when I had my MKIII VR6 the shop I took it to put my MAF on backwards and I had those same stalling issues and had to keep the revves up high in order to keep it running so I know any issue with the MAF can cause all kinds of cr*p to happen. Keep us posted. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
You wanted a pic of my DV right? Sorry I didn't get back to you. I'll try and get a pic of that soon.


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## 1 Low Coupe (Oct 14, 2005)

*Re: (VR62NV)*

hubble you only made 207 on 9.1 i made 275 9.1 and 18 psi .. and the motor has bad rings too boot


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## Beny~blanco (Jul 27, 2006)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

Did you get it running right yet? 
It would be sweet if you can get it to jeff, that way i can get a new up to date chip for my car lol. i know he said the software does not need to be updated but we "the OBD1 owners" know it could use a little tweeking


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (Beny~blanco)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Beny~blanco* »_Did you get it running right yet? 
It would be sweet if you can get it to jeff, that way i can get a new up to date chip for my car lol. i know he said the software does not need to be updated but we "the OBD1 owners" know it could use a little tweeking









No Not yet. I did install the Fuel Pressure gauge and finally received my A pillar pod yesterday. I will be installing these today. I will also try to see the source of my oil leak from under the charger. Hopefully I can access it by just removing the ps HL. 
I dont think Jeff will be rewriting any Corrado OBD1 software, but he "may" make a custom chip if you bring your car to his shop. I dont want to pay to be the guinea pig, but I do want a proper running set up. We'll see soon enough.. I'm not done just yet


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

I am seeing about 50 psi on the fuel pressure gauge @ idle. Rev the car & I see 60psi. I dont think I have a problem with supply/pump.
I installed my new SW 30-15psi Boost gauge & tubing kit. I see 15 vacuum and it barely goes into boost. Around 3k it will go into boost and I'll see 5lbs around 5000 Rpm. I am seeing 8lbs on occasion(WOT) @ redline to 7300rpm. I hit the rev imiter 2x while watching the boost gauge. 
No fuel leaks, re tightened all T-bolts, clamps, etc. Tightened the charger belt even more. Wiped up any excess oil vapor from entire area. 
Removed the HL to look under charger. Its totally dry, Charger & return line are NOT leaking. 

The oil seemed to be from the Crank Case breather filter. It looks like it must mist/leak at hi revs or something, the mist would get on the moving belt/pulley and spread.. its now all clean & dry. 

I am still not making boost.. or enough of it.


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## hubbell (Oct 30, 2001)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

hey...been a while but heres what i know....i had a few issues going on while OBD1, one, not 100% sure but a wire, the one with the signal from the o2 sensor was very loose looking, as in not right looking how it should have been, it may have been making a bad contact. i looked over the harness before installing it, but when i removed it i noticed this odd looking wire that didnt look that way when installing the harness. two, and def the biggest one, PO made his own battery cables and i found out they were makoing no contact, thus low voltage so i know this effected something hugely, three i was not seing 20vac at idle, i saw more like 12 or so. this could have been from the low voltage which could have messed with the timing, made it run hot and basiclly screwed with the whole system. so like ive ben saying i have no proof that the chip was the culprit but i didnt have codes but problems were still there. now, all of these things have been fixed as ive gone obd2, no codes, voltage has been fixed and 20vac at idle. i have yet to have the car buck or cutout or anything, no issues. starts nicely etc. this is the 30# obd2 setup and the car needs an alignment but pulls way better than before. also, i am no longer on 9:1 compression but instead im on stock compression....hope some of this helps. if you dont see the right vac, id start there, make sure you have proper voltage. gtimagic, i know your issue is tough since it was working before the install but hopefully another few pages this will get solved. also i have the lightest DV spring, also, ive yet to hit more than 10 psi, still have the 15ps pulley on and the thing is ridiculous..torque steer tires spin easily and the car needs traction in first and half of second pending how hard i keep on it....really havent driven but around the block several times but im soooo much happier with it now....check the o2 conections carefully, pull the harness out from the back of the firewall, make sure the wires are intact and properly placed to ensure a good connection....keep us updated....may have a video later this month for fun....


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (hubbell)*

thanks Rick, 
I'll get another reset & code scan next. 
I may also tap the boost line somewhere else, possibly @ the TB. For the hell of it I may cap off the check valve on firewall and eliminate the ISV tubing(muffler box?).
Only prior & remaining code is my 0515 (CPS). This may cause a timing retard and lean conditions, but the lack of boost is mechanical. 
The V1 was purchased used from C2. It is supposed to have 8k-10k/1yr. on it and was inspected prior to my purchase. 

Really not sure what I can do next?? All vacuum lines and fittings have been replaced. Belt has been tightened, I have the dual idler, All gauges are new, couplers are tight and I'm using T bolt clamps, plugs were re gapped to .026. I'm running the stock Bosch DV. 
ISV is unplugged, EGR is completely removed. 

Dont get me wrong, the car feels good. It drives nicely, buy not making full boost and only getting 200hp is a bit disappointing. I honestly think I will remove & sell it before I dump much more $$ into it. I may just get a Schrick,take my tq. and be done. 
Rick, so your only ever seeing 10 psi on your 15 psi pulley? 
It was running hot as in EGT or overall engine temps?


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

recent progress
current belt condition after about 2400 miles








Nylon boost tubing and T fitting tapped into the FPR lines (smaller on the lower left above sensor cover) 








current vacuum reading @ idle








a home for the new SW Boost gauge 








_Modified by gtimagic at 1:37 AM 1-5-2007_


_Modified by gtimagic at 1:37 AM 1-5-2007_


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

more recent pics



































_Modified by gtimagic at 2:00 AM 1-5-2007_


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

removed link. After looking @ the original vid. The youtube version is out of sync. Showing the video shorter than audio clip. 


_Modified by gtimagic at 2:46 PM 1-5-2007_


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## hubbell (Oct 30, 2001)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

yeah.....thats not good....the DV opened way to early. it should only open when you let off the throttle.....also, check the belt tightening, your screw looks a little loose by the way it sticks out so far....my car isnt running hot but i havent seen more than 8 psi so far on this new setup, previous setup i saw 14 psi at rev limiter....yes its the same 15lb pulley but i havent messed with it too much yet.... took a while to see 14 psi before....everytime i messed with it i got another few psi of boost...


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (hubbell)*

audio was out of sunc on that vid. (youtubes compression). 
I have just this week tightened the belt, the above pic is from earlier, but It was already tight... to the point it starts making noises when you add tension. The bolt may look long due to my belt size & pulley diameter (i am only running the 2.87 pulley) 
Rick, what was the previous setup that gave you 14psi? and why only 8psi now? what pulleys? 
What were your "tricks" to get more boost every time??

I will re route the DV tap later today. 

Anyone dump both the CrankCaseBreather and VCBreather into the same can? 
Since my CCB seems to occasionally mist the area and the VCB is just an open hose near my spoiler, I had the bright Idea of just combining these via a T or Y fitting and dump to a can..

It seems as if the CCB exhausts air, Does it ever suck in air? (that would be bad if its sucking from the Catch Can)


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## VWpowa (Mar 4, 2000)

If you have a vacuum leak you probably have a boost leak as well. I read through your thread, if you removed the ISV i would add it back. I removed mine for a little while and it didnt seem to return to idle fast enough.


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (VWpowa)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VWpowa* »_If you have a vacuum leak you probably have a boost leak as well. I read through your thread, if you removed the ISV i would add it back. I removed mine for a little while and it didnt seem to return to idle fast enough. 

I unplugged it.. and it solved almost all my driving & idle issue immediately. It idles better now, doesn't stall and driver easier. 
Maybe I should just remove the ISV & plumbing too.


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

Todays Trial & Error:
eliminated 2 vacuum plugs. 
Was going to tap the DV into the TB nipple, but the nipple is much larger than the rest of the vacuum tubing. So I left as is. 
Bypassed the Braided SS vacuum line w/ the blue chk. valve (shown in above pics... CC I think?) this made no difference in boost or vacuum @ idle. So I reconnected to last configuration. 
Totally removed the entire ISV-... only to reinstall it








~ This is kinda weird. I removed the muffler box & rerouted lines. Also tested it for leaks.. none. 
~ Reinstalled the plastic muffler box.
~ Removed the Complete ISV and ran a 3/4" hose & left open on both end. = Car would not start/run.
~ Removed the Complete ISV and ran a 3/4" hose from the upper intake pipe to the port where the ISV connected to motor.. The car revved up & down uncontrollably.
_ left upper intake port open and then capped off the ISV port on motor = Had to keep foot on pedal to keep running but idle still revved from 1600-3000. If you stepped into pedal it would rev wildly to 5000 and float wherever it wanted to. If you let off pedal it would stall immediately(makes sense as no air would get into engine since TB was closed).
- ** If you blow air pressure into the ISV itself, it does leak air... Its not a sealed unit! 
So, I am back to the original set up prior to any tests today( ISV fully installed, just not electrically connected). It is running the same as before. Nice, just not making full boost.
I have been monitoring the DV when I am in boost & @ WOT. It seems to hold until I let off pedal. 
Whats next?


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## hubbell (Oct 30, 2001)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

well everytime i found another place where a hose connected that was fine under NA but once boosted is a leak, i put a clamp on it and gained 1-2 psi everytime i did that. also, i tighten the belt when the engine is hpot so the belt expands to where it will be when dirving....
before i saw 14 psi at the revlimiter with the 15lb pulley....now, keep in mind ive gone around the block once or twice, im seeing 8spi easy and i dont know what itll do, it kind of hits 8psi and then maxes out, i doint know if i should change the DV spring or what, which is what ill probably do next and make sure every clamp is toight like a tiger....after that see where i am and go from there.....spins tires while moving in first and second at 8psi.....really looking forward to having 12psi easily before redline....keep the posts going, took me an engine swap and harness change but its ready for serious power....


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (hubbell)*

I may try a 15psi pulley & new belt to at least get 10-11 psi from it. 
I'll try this, another DV, zip tied vacuum lines and reset any codes.........and then ??










_Modified by gtimagic at 12:48 PM 1-10-2007_


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

no backfires in a while. 
Received my 2.5" 15(lb) pulley and have a new belt. These should go in very soon. I hope to get @ least 11lbs from this. 
Looks like the oil leak is getting worse, its from the outer seal on SC main shaft and mists onto the belts/pulleys etc.
I've read some DIY threads in the stang forums and found lots of useful info. Of corse now its finally cold out and the 70* days are gone. So much for a long day twisting wrenches in 20*F temps. (I dont have garage or even driveway access). 
let it load, its a DIY Pdf. http://www.corral.net/forums/s...80865
http://www.corral.net/forums/s...80865
these take awhile to load up (even on cable modem), but very informative http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by gtimagic at 9:13 PM 1-23-2007_


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## hubbell (Oct 30, 2001)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

so mine is running fine but i havent seen over 8psi on it on the new setup...once it a bit nicer out i will try to get more psi out of it. i was seeing 14psi before i did all the reconfiguring.....i hope to have pics and beter boost in the next month....


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (hubbell)*

I pulled the charger today. I will have to replace the outer shaft seal as its def. the source of the leak. I will probably DIY, change the pulley and install the new belt. cross finger and hope for the best.
~Vortech wants $369 for bearings & seal rebuild (2wks.)
~Another co. wants $200 just for the seal rebuild (2 days)
A complete 4 pc. "kit" is $277, 2x seals are $40
off the shelf- the outer seal is about $12 FWIK, it basically just "taps" into place.
The inside of the unit is totally clean & dry, so I assume that the inner seal is fine, as well as the bearings. I need an impact gun to remove the pulley bolt (as per Vortech).
Hopefully I can find this seal tomorrow and get on with this. Looks like I wont be seeing Jeff for another few weeks.









Being that its good internally and Vortech says the kit was sold in July 05, the reported milage should be pretty accurate making it around 12K to date. I still have no clue as to why its not making more than 8lbs.


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

Jeff has helped me tremendously in my diagnoses of my issues (huge thanks). It looks like I have some work to do after the SC goes back in. Hopefully its a very simple fix and the new set up is gonna be a beast. 

Updates and new dyno to come.


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

lots of ph. calls and internet searching has lead me to some find some replacement seals locally. I only need to replace the outer rotary shaft seal. 
Seals, new impact gun (Ryobi 18v - works nicely), gear puller, new pulley and some time has got the rebuild done - yeah...
The outer seal was shot, all ripped up, etc. The newer seal is from a diff. manufacturer and is completely encased in rubber. 
An internal inspection showed no damaged or anything weird. All the teeth looks fin, the bearing were good,etc. I only opened ip the output side of the charger. (if doing this, be careful not to pull on the output shaft, it will move some, it will also stress & misalign the impellers, the clearances are super close- make sure the blades clear the housing when it all goes back together) 
My SC bracket came w/ a shim that I was told I did not have to use. Everything looks alligned pretty well. 
However, since its all going back in , and after looking @ my belt After only a 3K on MY car it has developed a groove as seen here








Do you think I should space the brtacket out just a bot. Here is a shim I have. 








it would sandwich here 








not on the outside like in the above mock up
I'll post SC repair pics later. 

_Modified by gtimagic at 10:39 AM 1-26-2007_


_Modified by gtimagic at 10:40 AM 1-26-2007_


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

pulley exchange







Had to buy a puller just for this








the factory seal








the destroyed seal








inner washer. Keep track of direction








the new rubber encased seal








the inner guts
















[


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

what a wk.end. At least the weather cooperated.
I roll my car into street, reinstall charger, etc. Install belt (what a PITA this is







) ( FYI- the Corrado engine bay is tight, even tighter when you have a big ass V1 in there)
So the belt is on, its tight,... I start it and in 3 seconds my last 2 hrs work is destroyed. The NEW belt is ripped to complete shreds in 3 secs. OMG WTF.. Why? ...
Ok, lets find another belt @ 4pm on Sat. Yeah right & good luck. Drive belt-less car up into my parking space. ... Friend finds a belt @ Autozone and delivers it. We then fix his HIDs, I've had it w/ the rado for the day. dubbers unite http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Sunday- get rado, drive belt-less car to a spot I can work on it and use my ramp to make belt install easier. 
Again w/ the PITA time consuming belt install. Thinking "man, this better work or I'm gonna flip for real"..
New belt on, Change oil/filter, new oil return line & a dead battery..
Get jump, start car,... it works- holy ****ts- no shredding so far & it runs. 
Tighten everything up(T bolts, DV, etc) and drive her to charge the battery back up, quickly wash car & engine(its starting to snow & I'm washing the car







) , clean oil marks my parking spot, recycle used oil, park car, cover and think of how the weekend was wasted.. ~end vent

the 15lb pulley currently yields less than before, although my belt is slipping quite a bit so...
When not slipping it does seem to actually build boost sooner.
Next I will test & resolve my Cam Pos. Sens Code(515)(likely a shorted wire), Re tighten belt, clear codes and then DYNO again (if all codes are cleared). 

oh, my handy work with the new seal makes for a dry, oil-free engine bay http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Wkend wasnt really wasted, I got the car back to ground zero anyhow, w/ a new belt, smaller pulley, oil change, car wash, short drive, & Bentley info about CPS.











_Modified by gtimagic at 6:13 PM 1-30-2007_


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

Belt has been re tightened = no more squeal & slip
CPS rotor is intact
CPS is getting proper voltage. 
Have to test Cam Pos Sens. itself, & the info wire to ECU. 
If all tests pass, then only thing left to fault is the ECU itself.


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## WickedGTi (Dec 21, 2000)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

God I love the sound of a V1 charger!


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (WickedGTi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WickedGTi* »_God I love the sound of a V1 charger!

me too







Most ppl. either luv it or hate it. The high pitched whining sound does go away around 1800rpms, after that it sounds pretty much like any other V series.


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (gtimagic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtimagic* »_Belt has been re tightened = no more squeal & slip
CPS rotor is intact
CPS is getting proper voltage. 
Have to test Cam Pos Sens. itself, & the info wire to ECU. 
If all tests pass, then only thing left to fault is the ECU itself. 

funny , these wires are so pliable when the engine is warm, yet so brittle when cold. 
Still have to complete testing. Need to clear codes in order to do so. 
*(keeping this from archiving)


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

WHoa WHoa WHoA! 
Back from the dead. 
My CEL code 515 has finally been cleared. After numerous double & triple testing of wires, pins, harness', ECU swaps, & a CPS it was till there!















So, I decided to dive a bit deeper into it and save the most time consuming difficult task for last. I decided to replace the ROTOR for the Cam Pos. Sens. ...







& I'm glad I did. I was broken! Not at all visably broken through the CPS hole, but totally cracked and deformed upon closer inspection. 
Replaced the Rotor and whatya know.







No more code 515, no more 5x rich running, retarded timing, bogging, backfiring Corrado. 
Instead I have a responsive, boost making, faster properly running Corrado. 
I am more exciting than when I ??? I dont know, but it feels damm good to know its running right and its cleared!
The only code I have now is the ISV .. & thats cause its unplugged. It runs better this way. No dipping idle & stalling when stopping when its unplugged. 
If I connect it, there are no codes at all and no CEL. 
I will next try a replacement ISV to see if mybe mine is just "weak" and not able to work hard enough for the LW FW & SC combo. 
It would be nice to not have a CEL @ all, but honestly I've gotten used to it and just knowing that my CPS code is fixed & that she's running right is great! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I retightened the belt some and she is a blast to drive. 

BTW_ there are not multiple magnets and smaller magnets on the chain wheel as I have be previously informed. Its just the 1 magnet in black plastic on the exhaust cam rotor.














to celebrate


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

TTT, 
just wanted to share this info and let anyone know who had been following this thread ( that died for a bit) that the issues were solved and that the C2 software & SC kit rock!
I hope this thread can help others and maybe clear up some confusion. ~Keith


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## VortechVeedub (Nov 27, 2005)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

Good to see the car up and running http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
now go make some noise..........................


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## gtimagic (Feb 13, 2002)

*Re: (VortechVeedub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VortechVeedub* »_Good to see the car up and running http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
now go make some noise..........................









had some help from your idler contribution.







Thanks. It would'nt have even been installed If I didnt get that from you. Never did use that pan though... 
A new Dyno is comong soon!


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## CorradoMagic (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: (gtimagic)*

NEW DYNO & CUSTOM CHIP WITH COGGED PULLEYS SOME TIME LATER.....= 300whp/267trq.


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