# Morning Misfire back again



## dubbin415 (Nov 1, 2007)

The misfire is back. I thought i got rid of it by swapping out the coils and plugs, which worked for a few weeks, but this morning, I got slight engine stumble and a CEL. Through out the 2 weeks the car didn't throw a CEL, it did throw pending misfire codes that never graduated into a CEL. 

New plugs, coils, pcv, fuel pump. Injectors maybe the problem? The car runs great after the first 30 seconds of warm up, which is when the CEL is thrown.

Thoughts? :banghead:


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## turboborra (Jan 23, 2004)

change your injectors and problem will be solved


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## CoNGLoMeRaTeGTi (Apr 4, 2007)

do a TB adaption (block 060) next time you cold start.

if it goes away its usually a sign of a TB going bad.


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## dubbin415 (Nov 1, 2007)

thanks! can you tell me what a TB adaption is? Is that a throttle body alignment? I'm not sure how to do that. Your help is appreciated! Thanks Conglo!


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## CoNGLoMeRaTeGTi (Apr 4, 2007)

dubbin415 said:


> thanks! can you tell me what a TB adaption is? Is that a throttle body alignment? I'm not sure how to do that. Your help is appreciated! Thanks Conglo!


Yes. You'll need vagcom. Go to engine, then to basic settings, then type in 060, then click on/off, wait for it to say ADP OK, then click on/off again. Turn the car on. It should idle just fine. If it gives you issues again you may need to replace the TB.


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## dubbin415 (Nov 1, 2007)

thanks again bro. Would you happen to know how much the TB costs if I have to replace it? That is so trippy that the computer can adjust the TB. I thought you'd have to get in there and do it manually. 

Say if I do need to get a new TB, is there aftermarket ones? I looked on ECStuning and couldn't find any. The stock ones costs something like $400+!


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## CoNGLoMeRaTeGTi (Apr 4, 2007)

I have a few.

PM me if you're interested.


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## dubbin415 (Nov 1, 2007)

thanks! I'm doing the TB alignment on Friday, so I'll keep you posted.

Why would a TB alignment be involved? I figured that if the TB was not aligned, I would see a code in the ECU.


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## CoNGLoMeRaTeGTi (Apr 4, 2007)

You may get a code, but it's for multiple random misfires. The angle sensors tend to go on the fritz. If we had toyotas we'd be in ditches. Lol.


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## dubbin415 (Nov 1, 2007)

i've actually had a random cylinder misfire before. I mostly get P0301, though. 

Do you think it may be the injector? It feels like something needs to be burned off while the car is warming up because it drives great after the engine stumbles for about 30 seconds after sitting for a bit.


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## dubbin415 (Nov 1, 2007)

Did the TB alignment today. Cleared all codes. The car wasn't totally cold though. Seems to run normally. We'll see


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## dubbin415 (Nov 1, 2007)

the TB alignment didn't make a difference. it aligned, but misfire is still there.


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## ssunnylee24 (Feb 7, 2009)

Are you tuned?
Put your car back to stock mode, you won't get misfire on cold starts.
It's something you gotta live with... I'm revo stage 2 and I get that sometimes.
But, it never misfired when I had my car in stock mode for about 2~3 weeks.
Try it.


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## Boosted2003! (Mar 10, 2009)

It can be exhaust lifters failing.. There is a TSB for this.


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## dubbin415 (Nov 1, 2007)

Yes, I have the GIAC tune. I don't think it's the software though. hmm 

Exhaust lifters? Are you referring to the lash adjusters? I'm thinking it's either the injectors or carbon in the intake valves... 

I may just live with it since it drives fine, pulls strong, and idles smooth. Just a slight hiccup in the mornings. :screwy:


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## Boosted2003! (Mar 10, 2009)

dubbin415 said:


> Yes, I have the GIAC tune. I don't think it's the software though. hmm
> 
> Exhaust lifters? Are you referring to the lash adjusters? I'm thinking it's either the injectors or carbon in the intake valves...
> 
> I may just live with it since it drives fine, pulls strong, and idles smooth. Just a slight hiccup in the mornings. :screwy:


 I was just about to say the injectors too.. Cold start issues have been found to be issues with injectors and the exhaust lifters. 


Have you poped any cel lights?


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## dubbin415 (Nov 1, 2007)

absolutely, I have a Check Engine Light on all the time and can't avoid it. once in a blue moon the light would be flashing while the car warms up, but after it's warm, the light stays solid and doesn't flash again unless I clear the code. The code is P0301 cyl. 1 misfire and P0300 random cyl. misfire. Most of the time it's P0301 though.:banghead:


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## Boosted2003! (Mar 10, 2009)

dubbin415 said:


> absolutely, I have a Check Engine Light on all the time and can't avoid it. once in a blue moon the light would be flashing while the car warms up, but after it's warm, the light stays solid and doesn't flash again unless I clear the code. The code is P0301 cyl. 1 misfire and P0300 random cyl. misfire. Most of the time it's P0301 though.:banghead:


 Hmm... weird thing is the code only shows up on a cold start? Can you warm the engine up and drive it like normal for abit.. Clear the code then restart. Still through a code?


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## dubbin415 (Nov 1, 2007)

Yes, I can drive normally after it's warm, shut down the engine and restart without any problems. No stumbling, no cel, perfect. I think one of my injectors is clogged or dirty. Running some techron injector cleaner through it to see if that helps any. 

Seafoam only works on the intake valves, correct? Seafoam wouldn't help me out if my injectors are clogged or dirty, true? 

Thanks man


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## releger (Dec 5, 2004)

dubbin415 said:


> New plugs, coils, pcv, fuel pump. Injectors maybe the problem? The car runs great after the first 30 seconds of warm up, which is when the CEL is thrown.


 I had a cold start misfire problem with my '06 A3. The reason why the misfiring only lasts for 30 seconds is that's how long it takes for the O2 sensor to get hot enough to start working and the engine management can go closed loop. I did data logging to determine what was happening. The misfire counter increments continuously and stops right after the O2 sensor status changes. My problem was Cyl 4 misfire (P0304) and Multiple Cyl misfire (P0300). I ruled out plugs and coils first and changed the PCV. I was thinking that it might be injectors, but I eventually found that it was an intake air leak. The vacuum hose to the brake booster has a plastic elbow right in the middle. That elbow was cracked slightly and was leaking a bit. The leak was small enough that the ECU could compensate once the O2 sensor came online. 

The cracked hose elbow was difficult to see because when the hose is installed in the car, the elbow is behind the cylinder head. I sealed the crack with glue and duct tape and ordered a new hose. I never saw the problem again. The new hose was the same part number, but the elbow had a big reinforcement molded in that was not on the original so this is definitely a modification to prevent the cracking. 

I can't say for sure that this is what's causing your problem, but it's easy enough to check. Remove the vacuum hose from the car and examine the elbow. It connects to the brake booster on one end and to a pipe that passes close to the cylinder head on the other end. If the brake vacuum hose is ok, examine the other vacuum plumbing. Anything that connects to the intake after the throttle body is fair game.


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## GolfRS (Feb 4, 2006)

releger said:


> I had a cold start misfire problem with my '06 A3. The reason why the misfiring only lasts for 30 seconds is that's how long it takes for the O2 sensor to get hot enough to start working and the engine management can go closed loop. I did data logging to determine what was happening. The misfire counter increments continuously and stops right after the O2 sensor status changes. My problem was Cyl 4 misfire (P0304) and Multiple Cyl misfire (P0300). I ruled out plugs and coils first and changed the PCV. I was thinking that it might be injectors, but I eventually found that it was an intake air leak. The vacuum hose to the brake booster has a plastic elbow right in the middle. That elbow was cracked slightly and was leaking a bit. The leak was small enough that the ECU could compensate once the O2 sensor came online.
> 
> The cracked hose elbow was difficult to see because when the hose is installed in the car, the elbow is behind the cylinder head. I sealed the crack with glue and duct tape and ordered a new hose. I never saw the problem again. The new hose was the same part number, but the elbow had a big reinforcement molded in that was not on the original so this is definitely a modification to prevent the cracking.
> 
> I can't say for sure that this is what's causing your problem, but it's easy enough to check. Remove the vacuum hose from the car and examine the elbow. It connects to the brake booster on one end and to a pipe that passes close to the cylinder head on the other end. If the brake vacuum hose is ok, examine the other vacuum plumbing. Anything that connects to the intake after the throttle body is fair game.


 
Any pics of that hose ?


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## releger (Dec 5, 2004)

GolfRS said:


> Any pics of that hose ?


 I didn't take any pics. The brake booster is partially hidden by the battery and engine when installed in the car and the hose is almost completely hidden. This is a pic of a similar master cylinder (silver) with brake fluid reservoir (white) attached to the brake booster (black). In the upper left, you can see the hole in the booster that the vacuum hose connects to. 

http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/503/1305booster1-med.jpg 

Here's a pic of a Mk5 engine bay with engine cover off. In the upper right, you can see the white brake fluid reservoir with black cap and the brake booster behind it. Just to the left of the reservoir, you can see the vacuum hose connecting to the booster. It curves down and to the left. Disconnect it at both ends and remove it to examine the elbow in the middle. You won't be able to see the other end. Use a mirror or just disconnect and reconnect by feel. 

http://www.swankmonkey.com/vw/jetta/2006/images/engine_cover/engine_mountpoints.jpg 

If you've been having cold start misfires, I hope this solves your problem. It drove me crazy for a few months until I figured it out.


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## GolfRS (Feb 4, 2006)

releger said:


> I didn't take any pics. The brake booster is partially hidden by the battery and engine when installed in the car and the hose is almost completely hidden. This is a pic of a similar master cylinder (silver) with brake fluid reservoir (white) attached to the brake booster (black). In the upper left, you can see the hole in the booster that the vacuum hose connects to.
> 
> http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/503/1305booster1-med.jpg
> 
> ...


 Are you referring to this hose circled in yellow ?










The one going between that round "plate like" protrusion on the firewall and the back of the vacuum pump ??

If so, there was another member also reporting having issues with that, but i just couldn't remove it from the firewall to have to tested.I pulled and pulled, and in the end i gave up, fearing i would break it and make things worse...

So is that the hose you are talking about ?


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## releger (Dec 5, 2004)

GolfRS said:


> Are you referring to this hose circled in yellow ?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Yes, that's the hose. The end you've circled in yellow is inserted into the hole in the brake booster. The other end attaches to a steel pipe that travels close to the end of the cylinder head, just under the vacuum pump. The booster end pulls straight out. The rubber grommet holds it pretty tight. The tab that points up and to the left is part of the hose. The other end pulls straight toward the back of the car. The other end is easier to get off.


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## GolfRS (Feb 4, 2006)

releger said:


> Yes, that's the hose. The end you've circled in yellow is inserted into the hole in the brake booster. The other end attaches to a steel pipe that travels close to the end of the cylinder head, just under the vacuum pump. The booster end pulls straight out. The rubber grommet holds it pretty tight. The tab that points up and to the left is part of the hose. The other end pulls straight toward the back of the car. The other end is easier to get off.


 So i just pull it off then ??

I can't say i didn't give it a GOOD PULL.

Just was afraid some part may break off and stay inside the firewall.

At least thats what happened to the other guy, he had to replace the whole part...


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## Rocco Sifredi (Jan 22, 2007)

if you had a vacuum leak, the misfires and rough idle would be there all the time even when warm, 
I just worked on a car with that same problem, replaced all 8 exhaust lifters, (lash adjusters) and replaced all 4 injectors to be on the safe side , all under warranty, but yes there is TSB on the lash adjuster replacement, its not a 5 min job it takes a couple hours to do, 
Goodluck!


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## GolfRS (Feb 4, 2006)

Rocco Sifredi said:


> if you had a vacuum leak, the misfires and rough idle would be there all the time even when warm,
> I just worked on a car with that same problem, replaced all 8 exhaust lifters, (lash adjusters) and replaced all 4 injectors to be on the safe side , all under warranty, but yes there is TSB on the lash adjuster replacement, its not a 5 min job it takes a couple hours to do,
> Goodluck!


 Well i have misfires for the longest time, changed almost everything (but that hose btw) and lifters would be my last chance....

Btw, do you have to go through all the "camshaft replacement procedure" to do the lifters ?
Or can you do that without removing the cams ??
Any DIY info maybe ??


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## Boosted2003! (Mar 10, 2009)

GolfRS said:


> Well i have misfires for the longest time, changed almost everything (but that hose btw) and lifters would be my last chance....
> 
> Btw, do you have to go through all the "camshaft replacement procedure" to do the lifters ?
> Or can you do that without removing the cams ??
> Any DIY info maybe ??


 Have to pull the cams. Its not to bad but if your do it I would might as well change the timing belt and water pump out too. Nice thing is the lifters are not uber expensive. Around $8 or so.


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## releger (Dec 5, 2004)

GolfRS said:


> So i just pull it off then ??
> 
> I can't say i didn't give it a GOOD PULL.
> 
> ...


 Yes. Just pull it straight out. 

If you have vacuum in the booster, that's going to make it harder. There's a check valve in the booster end of the hose that keeps the vacuum in the booster even after stopping the engine. With the engine stopped if you press and release the brake pedal a few times that will release the vacuum. That should make it a bit easier to pull the end of the hose out of the rubber grommet. Just give firm steady pressure and that should separate it from the booster.


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## releger (Dec 5, 2004)

Rocco Sifredi said:


> if you had a vacuum leak, the misfires and rough idle would be there all the time even when warm,


 Not true. With feedback from the O2 sensor, the ECU can compensate for a small leak. The first 30 seconds or so after a cold start the O2 sensor is not working. The engine management is running open loop and so the small leak can cause misfires. The crack in the vacuum hose fitting on my car eventually grew and at that point I started to have "lean at idle" and "idle speed out of range" codes and strange idle behavior. After fixing the vacuum hose, I've never had another misfire code. Before the fix, I had misfires on every cold start for many months and otherwise the car ran great. 

Just because it turned out to be my problem doesn't mean that it's the problem for everyone else with cold start misfires. There are a bunch of other causes of cold start misfires. However, the vacuum hose leak is so easy to check, it something that should be done before undertaking any of the expensive fixes like replacing injectors or lash adjusters.


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## GolfRS (Feb 4, 2006)

Any part number for the revised hose ?


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## releger (Dec 5, 2004)

GolfRS said:


> Any part number for the revised hose ?


The part number for the assembly didn't change. It's still 1K0 612 041 CJ, but the newer hose has the revised plastic elbow. My car is an A3. A different but similar model, like the GTI, may not use the exact same part.


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## GolfRS (Feb 4, 2006)

Well this is what i found on the net.

http://autopartmaster.com/en/?actio...891&added_=AUDI Audi A3/S3/Sportback/qu. 2005


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## releger (Dec 5, 2004)

GolfRS said:


> Well this is what i found on the net.
> 
> http://autopartmaster.com/en/?actio...891&added_=AUDI Audi A3/S3/Sportback/qu. 2005


Item 7a from that page looks like the right part. Good luck sorting out the misfires.


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## dubbin415 (Nov 1, 2007)

Awesome help guys!!! (clapping)

I'll check the hose first. If that's okay, I'll try to live with the minor misfire in the morning. If it gets worse, I'll check out the exhaust lifters and injectors when I change the timing belt. When I change my timing belt, it is much more labor to get to the lash adjusters and injectors, or are they pretty much right there (easy access)? 

Thanks so much guys. Cheers!!

dubbin415 :beer:


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## GolfRS (Feb 4, 2006)

Well i did a small test with the brake booster hose, i unplugged it from the firewall and plugged that side with my finger while starting the engine (not me..LOL).It seemed like that helped in the beginning, but soon it was back to the old rough idle i am used to.So i guess that possibly isn't it, unless of course the ECU needs to re-adapt to stabilize idle in its "normal state"...But i doubt it....

I might go ahead and change that hose anyway, although it's probably gonna be another waste of money.... :banghead:


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## dubbin415 (Nov 1, 2007)

golfrs,

thanks for the update. I was going to do that myself as well. I guess we're on to the injectors and lash adjusters. hmmm


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## GolfRS (Feb 4, 2006)

dubbin415 said:


> golfrs,
> 
> thanks for the update. I was going to do that myself as well. I guess we're on to the injectors and lash adjusters. hmmm


I've done the injectors/valves cleaned TWICE...

No difference...

Lash adjusters need a lot of work though....


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## releger (Dec 5, 2004)

GolfRS said:


> Well i did a small test with the brake booster hose, i unplugged it from the firewall and plugged that side with my finger while starting the engine (not me..LOL).It seemed like that helped in the beginning, but soon it was back to the old rough idle i am used to.So i guess that possibly isn't it, unless of course the ECU needs to re-adapt to stabilize idle in its "normal state"...But i doubt it....
> 
> I might go ahead and change that hose anyway, although it's probably gonna be another waste of money.... :banghead:


GolfRS, if I understand what you did correctly, you didn't bypass the hose. If you plugged the booster end of the hose, the hose is still under vacuum and would still leak if defective. You would need to remove the other end of the hose and then block the fitting that the other end of the hose connects to. Since you got the booster end off, which is harder to do, just remove the other end and remove the hose from the car so that you can examine it. If it's leaking enough to cause your problem, you should be able to see it.


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## releger (Dec 5, 2004)

dubbin415 said:


> Awesome help guys!!! (clapping)
> 
> I'll check the hose first. If that's okay, I'll try to live with the minor misfire in the morning. If it gets worse, I'll check out the exhaust lifters and injectors when I change the timing belt. When I change my timing belt, it is much more labor to get to the lash adjusters and injectors, or are they pretty much right there (easy access)?
> 
> ...


dubbin, glad to help out! It may not lead anywhere for you, but it's worth looking at before you spend big money. On getting to the injectors or lash adjusters, it's a lot of work for either. For the injectors, the intake manifold and fuel rail have to come off. For the lash adjusters, the camshafts have to come out. Some of the work for the timing belt is also necessary when removing the camshafts so there is some savings if you do those two at the same time. I just recently had my intake camshaft replaced, along with the high pressure fuel pump and follower. The follower failed completely and the pump plunger was running directly on the camshaft lobes. I had the shop do the timing belt at the same time as it was near due and the labor overlap provided some savings.


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## dubbin415 (Nov 1, 2007)

thanks rel,

I'm gonna do my timing belt soon. You advise that I should check out the lash adjusters at the same time since the cams have to come out anyways, or did you mean check the injectors when I change my timing belt? Sorry for the ?'s, my brain is alseep. :thumbup:


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## GolfRS (Feb 4, 2006)

releger said:


> GolfRS, if I understand what you did correctly, you didn't bypass the hose. If you plugged the booster end of the hose, the hose is still under vacuum and would still leak if defective. You would need to remove the other end of the hose and then block the fitting that the other end of the hose connects to. Since you got the booster end off, which is harder to do, just remove the other end and remove the hose from the car so that you can examine it. If it's leaking enough to cause your problem, you should be able to see it.


Well i thought of that, but my thinking was that the hose fails at the valve, so plugging the end off would cover that possibility.What you are saying is true, however the is SO MUCH VACUUM at that hose, i still would have heard a hissing sound if the air was coming in from the rest of the hose.But i agree, there is still a tiny possibility the hose is leaking elsewhere (tiny being the keyword).

Don't think i'll be doing the lifters anytime soon though.I recently replaced my cams, and i aint about to go through this again right now...

One important fact is that my idle misfires disappear once i step on the throttle ever so slightly, raising the revs to ~800-850 rpm, which makes me believe even more this is a leak issue...Of course a bad lifter could also be effected by revs (or so i believe), since lower revs might mean a bad lifter is not working like the others....


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## releger (Dec 5, 2004)

dubbin415 said:


> thanks rel,
> 
> I'm gonna do my timing belt soon. You advise that I should check out the lash adjusters at the same time since the cams have to come out anyways, or did you mean check the injectors when I change my timing belt? Sorry for the ?'s, my brain is alseep. :thumbup:


Sorry for not being clear. I probably should have got some sleep before posting.  There is not much overlap in labor between doing the timing belt service and changing injectors. There is some labor overlap between doing the timing belt service and changing the lash adjusters. The timing belt has to come off to get the cams out, which is necessary to change the lash adjusters. If you're having the timing belt service done, there is some labor saving to change the lash adjusters at that time compared to doing the two services separately. In my case, the cams had to come out to fix the HP fuel pump problem. I had him do the timing belt service at the same time and it only cost an incremental amount in labor, plus parts of course.


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## releger (Dec 5, 2004)

GolfRS said:


> Well i thought of that, but my thinking was that the hose fails at the valve, so plugging the end off would cover that possibility.What you are saying is true, however the is SO MUCH VACUUM at that hose, i still would have heard a hissing sound if the air was coming in from the rest of the hose.But i agree, there is still a tiny possibility the hose is leaking elsewhere (tiny being the keyword).


The part of the hose that failed for me is near the other end. I never heard any hissing even after I knew there was a leak and I was searching for it. I knew there was a leak because the leak got worse and started affecting idle after the car was warm. I was getting MIL with codes for lean at idle and idle speed out of range. I started tracking it down by disconnecting vacuum hoses from the intake manifold and plugging the connections. Near intake runner 4 there are two hoses that connect. One is the corrugated hose from the PCV. The other is a hose that splits into several others, including the hose to the vaccum pump and the hose that goes under the vacuum pump and eventually connects to the brake booster. When I disconnected that one from the intake manifold and plugged both sides, the idle was good. I searched all possible branches from that hose and found the cracked elbow on the brake booster hose down behind the vacuum pump.


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## dubbin415 (Nov 1, 2007)

do you guys think we "need" to fix this misfire or can we just live with it and move on? We've been living with it until now. My problem hasn't gotten worse--static. How about you GolfRS?

Thanks for the help rel!
:thumbup::thumbup:


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## Boosted2003! (Mar 10, 2009)

If you do the lifter replacement yourself. Buy the cam locking too.


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## GolfRS (Feb 4, 2006)

dubbin415 said:


> do you guys think we "need" to fix this misfire or can we just live with it and move on? We've been living with it until now. My problem hasn't gotten worse--static. How about you GolfRS?
> 
> Thanks for the help rel!
> :thumbup::thumbup:


 Well my opinion is that it is certainly an issue, many cars seem to have it, but then again many cars have the cam follower issue also, the difference is the latter can DESTROY your engine whereas the idle problem is just a nuisance...or IS IT ?

For me the idle problem DIDN'T come with the car, it progressively grew worse and worse up to a point where it misfires constantly instead of the "slight nudge" people are talking about.Funny thing is (and that is what's most irritating for me) is that it seems to have "off days" or rather "off times" meaning if i turn of the engine and turn it on again, the frequency of the misfiring changes, and at time it even seems like it has stopped...but then it starts all over again.

All of the above makes me think it is a hardware related issue, something we have yet to discover (could be a faulty sensor, a bad one way valve, a "prone to leakage" hose etc).But i most certainly don't find it "normal" and something i should just forget about...


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## dubbin415 (Nov 1, 2007)

golfrs, 

does your engine misfire when it's warmed up or just at the cold start?


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## GolfRS (Feb 4, 2006)

dubbin415 said:


> golfrs,
> 
> does your engine misfire when it's warmed up or just at the cold start?


 It misfires at idle.Nothing to do with warming up or not.

I am getting close to figuring this out though. 

I pretty positive it's a hardware issue that has to do with an "up to now" undiscovered failing part.

I have already tried 3 different MAF sensors, and 1 of them shows lower readings than the other two, so failing MAF's MAY BE as common as in the 1.8T days, even though their design has changed.I am guessing it might have to do with the high temps these sensors see using them in metal aftermarket intake pipes (and NO those paper-like heat shields most manufacturers use don't do squat for protection).

I have already seen a big difference in fuel trims (and i might say misfiring) by heat insulating my MAF section (although i am afraid it is already too late for my MAF, and the reason the misfires haven't gone completely), and changing to a catch can (that might have more to do with throwing away the OEM PCV rather than the can itself).

Still, nothing can be ruled out, and i am still in search for a cure.

P.S.Having a lightweight flywheel doesn't help much either, since it off balances the loads the ECU sees at idle, hence effecting the idle mixture itself....


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## dzellers (Jul 29, 2008)

My brake booster vacuum hose was also cracked and leaking at the elbow at the one end opposite the brake booster. Of course when I pulled off the side of the tube that connects to the "water connector," or whatever it is called, it broke off. Can this connector piece in the middle be removed for easier access? Or is it easier to just bypass it? It looks like two bolts are holding it to the engine, but since it has water running to it, I'm reluctant to disconnect it so that I can access the brake booster vacuum hose fitting. I checked the Bentley manual, but I couldn’t find any reference to this odd connector tube in the middle of the brake booster vacuum hose.


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## vwisthebest (Sep 17, 2003)

Injectors.


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## VLUONG24 (Oct 29, 2019)

Desperate and having the same idle misfire. I've done all the common things now, injectors, plugs, packs, checked vacuum leaks, cleaned valves. Still got a misfire on 4 when under 2k rpm. Any updates on a solution? Would love to hear from dubbin or golfrs in terms of lash adjusters.


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