# DIY - Turbocharge your MK4 VR6 Thread



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

When I first had my original build thread it was aimed at just asking starter questions. So I'd like to start a thread to show others how to piece together there own kit or how to do something and comprise all this information into one simple thread.
In this thread I will include detailed pictures and descriptions of installing all items in subcategories to complete the setup. The reason for all this is because I had found it was very time consuming finding the answer to a simple question, such as a fitting size or where to buy this part. 
Certainly it will be easier to buy a complete kit, so I don't want to hear people saying you should do that instead. The reason I didn't was because I had different goals than what most kits can offer. Plus I just can.








For those who wonder...
*My Setup* 
*INTAKE*
4" KNN Filter ................. (KNN-RU-2520) -- SUMMIT RACING
4" intake pipes............... (HOK-12310HKR) -- SUMMIT RACING
4" coupler................... (SPE-9771) -- SUMMIT RACING
4" 90* coupler.................. (SPE-9781) -- SUMMIT RACING
C2 4" MAF housing.............. -- C2 MOTORSPORTS
Turbonetic's 60-1 F157 (.62/.82 T3 Turbine Stage 3 wheel) .............(TNT-11009) (CONFIGURABLE) -- SUMMIT RACING)
2.5" intercooler pipes............. -- EBAY
3, 3"-2.5" reducer............... Advanced Auto Parts (wishing I did from silicone intakes, theyre much more flexible)
27x6x5 FMIC................. -- EBAY (Car Part Nation)
Couplers ..............-- EBAY
T-Bolts..... -- Summit Racing
Type-S BOV (recirculating) ...........-- EBAY
Stock drive-by-wire throttle body
Gasket Material................ (5189950) -- ADVANCE AUTO PARTS
167 CU short runner intake manifold off a MK3 car.......... -- VWVORTEX

*EXHAUST*
Exhaust Manifold Gaskets......... (021 253 050B / 021 253 039E) -- ECS TUNING
ATP clone manifold......... -- EBAY
(4) M10x1.5 x 45mm overall length studs for collector.............. wwww.mcmaster.com
(PACK) M10x1.5 locking nuts......... http://www.mcmaster.com
T3 5 bolt discharge flange gasket............ http://www.atpturbo.com
3" 5 BOLT DISCHARGE FLANGE............... http://www.atpturbo.com
T3 Inlet Gasket.............. -- Summit Racing
(5) Bolts for discharge M8x1.25 x 25mm.......... -- wwww.mcmaster.com
Turbonetic's 38mm external WG........ (TNT-10780) -- SUMMIT RACING
2, 38mm WG Flange............... (TNT-20260) -- SUMMIT RACING
1.5" open dump pipe ............ (HOK-12525HKR) -- SUMMIT RACING
3" down pipe (2, 180* Bends) .......... ((2) MPE-10719) -- SUMMIT RACING
3" Flex Joint............. (PSM-82-4218) -- SUMMIT RACING
3" mid pipe .............. -- Summit Racing
2, 3" V-band connectors............. -- Summit Racing
3"-2.5" reducer............. (WLK-41972) -- SUMMIT RACING
2.5" existing cat back system (with no cat (I will upgrade this later to a 3") 

*FUEL*
Stock fuel system
42pph 5.0 Mustang injectors.......... (SUM-240042-8) -- SUMMIT RACING
MK3 fuel rail.......... VWVORTEX
0-100psi fuel gauge............. (SUM-800199) -- SUMMIT RACING
Fitting for fuel gauge.............. (SUM-G1710) -- SUMMIT RACING 

*ELECTRONICS *
Steering Column Dual Gauge Pod............ ECS Tuning
C2 Motorsports 42pph flash load............. -- C2 MOTORSPORTS
AEM UEGO Wideband .................... (AVM-30-4100) -- SUMMIT RACING
30/30 Cobalt boost gauge .............. (ATM-6103) -- SUMMIT RACING
NGK BKR7E plugs gapped at .028" .............(19650398) -- ADVANCED AUTO PARTS
5/8" Insulated Clamps................ (SUM-G1883) -- SUMMIT RACING

*LONG BLOCK*
100% bone stock, stock comp/ratio still
Polyurethane rear pendulum mount............. (1JO 199 851M SJ) -- ECS TUNING
* DRIVETRAIN*
100% bone stock

*OIL FEED*
Oil feed adapter............. (KNN231-013BR) -- KINETIC MOTORSPORTS
1/8"/-4AN ADAPTER.............. (EAR-981604ERL) -- SUMMIT RACING
(2) 24" -4 Braided SS lines............. (NOS-15230NOS) -- SUMMIT RACING
-4/-4AN union............... (EAR-981504ERL) -- SUMMIT RACING
3/8 insulated clamps....... (SUM-G1881) -- SUMMIT RACING
45* -4AN/1/8" adapter............ (EAR-982304ERL) -- SUMMIT RACING

*OIL RETURN*
-10AN/3/4NPT adapter (on the pan)............ (EAR-981609ERL) -- SUMMIT RACING
Oil Pan Silicone Sealant ................. (D176404A2~VR) -- ECS TUNING
2, -10AN hose ends............ -- Summit Racing
3' of -10AN braided hose.......... -- Summit Racing
-10AN/ 1/2"NPT adapter........... -- Summit Racing
1/2" T3 oil return flange.......... -- Summit Racing
T3 Oil Return Gasket.......... -- Summit Racing
So without further wait, onto the build!
*
TEAR DOWN FIRST... * 
Of course it first starts as disconnecting the battery and jacking the car up and setting on all 4 jackstands. 








I started by removing the plug wires, electrical connectors, and vacuum lines. I also earlier relocated the expansion tank to the driver's side and moved the PS reservoir forward to accommodate room for the air filter. 








Then I dropped the lock carrier, I referred to this thread to drop it http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2455185 , to gain access to the intake manifold bolts. I've heard you don't have to, but it sure seems tight without doing so. 
After you get the upper bolts off you have to get a little tricky with a swivel to remove a couple of the bottom bolts of the lower half to the head. 








You also have to remove the alternator to gain access to the left-most bolt on the intake manifold to head. There are 2 bolts holding the alternator to the bracket. Remove those and it then pry it out with a pry bar. 








Then you have this...








I also decided to remove the Secondary Air Injection. It frees up a lot of room. 








Then onto the back side.
I would suggest breaking free the downpipe bolts before unbolting the manifolds... this way the manifolds hold the pipes from moving on you. This is only if youre removing the exhaust from below. If you decide to pull it out from the top you can just unbolt the manifolds from the head and that's it. 









I was trying to pull them from the top, but quickly realized it would be easier to pull it out from the bottom. 









It's rather easy to pull it out from below if you have a lift...most of us don't, I don't either, so you must bend the exhaust in a couple different of directions to bring it out. I just removed the coupling right after the CAT. 
That's about all you need to prep the engine for the new hardware. 

* ELECTRONICS *
* ECU REMOVAL (ROYAL PITA) *
This was kind of a pain because not of the DIY threads were the same. So as I went along I made sure to include pics and details.
I consulted this PDF file for my info as well. http://aibshi.com/r32/ecu.pdf
Before starting, make sure the battery is unplugged for a while, the key is out of the ignition, and YOU ARE GROUNDED TO THE CAR! It's very easy to destroy the transistors or any small electrical component in the ECU by a small static shock. Even if you walk across the carpet and pick up the ECU you can destroy it with a static shock. Never touch the ECU unless you have discharged the current in your body!
Start by popping off the caps over the wiper arms with a flat head screwdriver.
Remove the 13mm nuts on each wiper arm. 
Spray with WD40 and let sit for a bit. 
Then you can either pull straight up with your hands or use a battery terminal puller like I did.
















Remove the 4 phillip's screws on the passenger side...








Remove the weather stripping...








Pry up on the cowl on the passenger side and remove the 2 tabs that holds the cabin air filter in. Remove the 2 and set aside.
Prop up the cowl panel with anything tall... I used 2 tape rolls. 








If your car has a couple miles on it like mine (67,000) removing the ECU and connectors can be a pain. You must pop the tab on each connector away horizontally towards each strut tower. The passenger side is easy to get to with your hand, but the driver's side I get a little tricky.







Stick a small flat head between the connector and the tab and wiggle back and forth gently!








The tabs are a pain because they didn't want to pop out all the way for me. This pic shows how far they must extend before pulling the connector out.








Then on the passenger side there is a small clip holding the ECU in its tray. Stick a small flat head, pop off and pull the ECU up a little.








After that you should be able to pull the ECU out by hand... mine didn't, so I wrapped some f*ckin' chains on the 2 outside shoulders and yanked her out!








That's it! 
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_Modified by Weiss at 1:50 AM 3-12-2009_


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## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Turbocharge your MK4 VR6 Thread (Weiss)*

*THE BUILD* 
* OIL FEED/RETURN *
I started with the oil feed line as it was easiest. 
I purchased a Kinetic Motorsports 1/8" NPT T-fitting (PN KNN231-013BR) ... applied some teflon tape (I didn't have any liquid sealer) and hooked it back up.
I had to also buy a 1/8"/-4AN adapter.








You will also need 2, 24" -4 braided lines from NOS and of course a -4/-4 union. 








On the return side I bougt a -10AN/3/4" adapter, and and had my friend's boss weld it to my pan for $20. When drilling it you will most likely need a stepper drill bit. 
















When deciding the location for the fitting you must be careful. To far to the driver's side and you hit the oil pump. 
Here's the oil return line hooked up. 








If you've never cut AN lines before, here's a quick guide...
* Wrap the line where you're cutting with electrical tape
*Buy some Summit Racing Line Cutters, then cut the line (loppers, snips, or whatever else doesn't work too well. A cut off wheel also works.)
*Unscrew the line clamp from the AN fittings 
*Lube both the inside of line and barb of AN fitting
*Slide line clamp over AN line, leaving a bit of a lip on the line
*Shove the AN fitting into the line and screw it together
*Snug up, being careful not to scratch... I wrapped the fittings in more electrical tape to avoid scratching it
Comes close, but turned out perfect!








All hooked up with the AN lines and T3 return adapter...
















Also, when bolting the pan back up you must be sure to prep both surfaces very well, because VW does not use an oil pan gasket on the MK4 VR6's. Instead they use just a silicone sealant. The old white paste can be kind of a bitch to get off on the pan rail closest to the bellhousing for some reason. I used a scuffing pad, and removed the big stuff with a razor blade. I then cleaned it with some solvent and a couple paper towels. When applying the paste make sure to circle all bolt holes. I used just one single line and then stuck it on. You only 15 minutes to put it up before it begins skinning. 

* INTAKE *
I bought the intake manifold off a guy here on the Vortex. You can of course still use your stock manifold, but it's plastic and it will blow up eventually. If you poke around you can easily find SRI's going for cheap all day long.








I ran into trouble installing my belt tensioner back onto the head because of an annoying tab that would hit the plenum (plenum was not shaped correctly)... after HEAVY massaging on a bench grinder it cleared... but it made installing the belt still a PITA.








Also, when bolting the intake back on you need to consider if you're still using the SAi unit or not. If you are, just bolt it back on like normal... if not, you need to either use shorter bolts on the 2 driver's side or reuse the bracket. I reused the bracket.
The same applies with the solenoid inside the head. You must either use a block off plate or reuse the solenoid and unplug everything. I'm cheap so I reused mine. 
Since I'm still using a MK3 manifold and keeping my MK4 throttle body, I needed an adapter. Of course no one really sells this so I was on my own to make one.
Lucky me I have friends who work at a machine shop and who are fantastic tig welders. So $40 later they made me this...









Installed...








While we're on the elbow, I forgot to machine the O-ring pocket for the MK4 side and the MK3 side, I wasn't certain the early style would work, so I had to buy some composite paper gasket material and make my own. 
The vacuum lines are pretty simple. I made the mistake of not tappin additional ports on the manifold. If it gives me trouble I'll remove it and tap more. Right now I'm just lazy...







Here's how mine are ran.








You can run them however you want, but you need to make sure you have a check valve installed before the 2 lines going to the gas tank. Pressure higher than atmospheric can be detrimental to the tank and it's components. 
Here's an actual pic of mine in that area.









In order to fit my turbo I had to notch the rain tray out to make clearance. We first tried the subtle approach by hammering it with a socket, but it required atleast 1.5" of clearance on the rain tray. So out with the cut off wheel and some massaging.
















I will have my friend weld it back up and paint it once I get it running...








A sawzall is your friend on a project like this! I bought a 180* 4" U bend and cut a slight 45* angle off. 








Mmmm... sewer pipe...








Also, on the MK4 cars it comes in contact with the High Pressure gauge port of the A/C lines... you must CAREFULLY bend the pipe in towards the fender. If you break it you're getting a bath of R134A and you will die.
















I ordered my turbo with a wet journal bearing to provide longevity to this since it will be my daily driver. I simply tee'd off the heater hose between the heater core and the secondary pump. You must be sure to have the inlet coming in below the turbo and outlet above the turbo to provide a "heat siphoning" effect after shutdown. 









* ELECTRONICS *

if you plan on running the intake on the passenger side you will need to relocate the Expansion Tank and move the PS reservoir forward and solder and extend the wiring harness for the Mass Air Flow Sensor to the passenger side. 








Also note that the IAT sensor is integrated within the MAF... being that there are 2 circuits running into the same connector, VW utilized a twisted pair on the other circuit. You must still twist the wiring all the way through...
When running the wiring DO NOT go over the turbo on the rain tray or firewall. Wires WILL melt. That's bad news bears.... I extended the hole were the factory harness goes in/out on the pass and drivers side and ran my extension harness inside there.
Also, I do believe the throttle body motor is case grounded (Not sure, but either way you need to do this) so you must extend the ground wire over to the throttle body from the secondary electric water pump bracket to the TB bolt.
Like so (just follow the yellow butt connectors, I couldn't use eyelets because the bolts were too wide, so I used a spade terminal and spread it out)...










When wiring up the gauges I tried to do it as professionally as possible. With that said there is no real right or wrong here, just a preference. 
I started by unsnapping the boot from the back of the column... I actually had unscrewed the 2 halves of the column before I realized it just unsnapped, which is why it's apart in the pics. This gives you access to run the wires and hose. I ran mine down through a small pocket on the right hand side.








I was able to slip everything through the lower panel via a small opening and running that way... I eventually just dropped the damn thing and ran the wires over the panel. 









I brought the boost gauge line in from the fender and inner door jar because I couldn't get enough room through the firewall.








If using a dual gauge pod you need a 90* off the boost gauge to clear. I clocked mine about 7 O'clock. 








Wideband and boost gauge done along with the needed double sided sticky tape to adhere to your factory column cover.








Now, what really frustrated me is that I couldn't find a good reference for where to wire the gauges for a 12v Key on only source. So I busted out the DVOM.








Unfortunately I forget the numbers, but you can see in the pic on the fuse block where I wired everything... 3rd row down, 3rd fuse in is the toggle for 12v switched power for the Wideband.... Top row, 4th fuse over is for lighting on both. I just paralleled the circuit for the lights to both gauges and grounds. I grounded through the light switch by the cigarrette lighter illumination lamp.









I removed the fuse block cover and dremelled out an opening for the wires.
















I ran the wideband O2 sensor wiring through the center console trim to the back. I also ran a rubber vacuum hose through the kick panel because that messy nylon tube would never had made it! 








The mess...








I decided to run the WBO2 harness right behind the driver's seat through the floor...
I cut out a part of the floor to avoid a messy, tangley drill bit of carpet and insulation.
















I didn't have a bit over 3/4" so I had to oscillate it back and forth to clear room for the connector to slide through...








I also put the carpet back in for a tad cleaner look. Also don't forget to use a grommet through the hole.
















I also had to remove the bezel ring and glare cover from the Wideband to clear the steering wheel.... it comes close.









* EXHAUST *
Of course prepping the head is the most important part. I started by cutting the big stuff out with a razor blade (it's just carbon bc you use a steel gasket) then finishing with a scotch pad. 








Gaskets on... 








Ebay Manifold on... I still used the stock hardware.








The Ebay manifold uses M10x1.5mm studs, that are roughly 45mm long.
Assembly lube makes it nice if you ever have to remove them.
















On...









_Modified by Weiss at 1:37 PM 2-13-2009_

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_Modified by Weiss at 9:48 PM 3-8-2009_ 


_Modified by Weiss at 2:28 AM 9-29-2009_


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: DIY - Turbocharge your MK4 VR6 Thread (Weiss)*

this should be stickied, and put in the FAQ's for new peeps. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## NoMoreHonduh (Apr 24, 2006)

you might have problems with those injectors. C2 42# software seems to only like Bosch Green Tops, apparently due to spray pattern. PM Jefnes3 about it. And I don't know if it is still the case or if you are aware, but with those eBay BOV's you have to take them apart and sand/grind down the internals. I'll try to find the link.


_Modified by NoMoreHonduh at 7:40 PM 2-12-2009_


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## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (NoMoreHonduh)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NoMoreHonduh* »_you might have problems with those injectors. C2 42# software seems to only like Bosch Green Tops, apparently due to spray pattern. PM Jefnes3 about it.

I had a huge concern about these before I went ahead and purchased them. I spoke with Jeff and he mentioned as long as the resistance, connectors, and dimensions are fine they should be okay. That is a good thought though... I believe these use the 3 way pintles.


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## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Turbocharge your MK4 VR6 Thread (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_this should be stickied, and put in the FAQ's for new peeps. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Thank you.







I wanted to show people where to get resources to tackle such a project and how to do it. I just remember trying to find information scattered about everywhere on the Vortex while I was doing this.....Also, I will clean everything up and get part numbers and web addresses where every item was obtained. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I'll update more when I get off work tonight.


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## FaelinGL (Nov 28, 2004)

*Re: (NoMoreHonduh)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NoMoreHonduh* »_you might have problems with those injectors. C2 42# software seems to only like Bosch Green Tops, apparently due to spray pattern.

This is mostly true...I however am runing the Delphi 440cc injectors and I have had no problems with them. Others, however, have had fueling issues which have disappeared with the use of the green tops.
Mike


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## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (FaelinGL)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FaelinGL* »_
This is mostly true...I however am runing the Delphi 440cc injectors and I have had no problems with them. Others, however, have had fueling issues which have disappeared with the use of the green tops.
Mike

Hmmm... well if I run into issues it's really no problem swapping over. You just can't beat the price that I get on my injectors to atleast try them.


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## lucas13dourado (Oct 1, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Im in for this http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (lucas13dourado)*

Lookin good so far http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## vr6jettagli (Mar 30, 2008)

lookin good


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (NoMoreHonduh)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NoMoreHonduh* »_C2 42# software seems to only like Bosch Green Tops, 

actually, it likes the genesis 415cc "green giants" better


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## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (Noobercorn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Noobercorn* »_
actually, it likes the genesis 415cc "green giants" better

















Aren't the Genesis injectors just drilled out bosch units?


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## broke_rado (Nov 5, 2008)

*Re: (KubotaPowered)*

Hope your feed line doesn't leak. VW uses metric threads not NPT.


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## Noobercorn (Aug 17, 2007)

*Re: (KubotaPowered)*

i dunno johnny, i know they flow better that's all. they may very well be. 
they certainly look different.


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## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (broke_rado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *broke_rado* »_Hope your feed line doesn't leak. VW uses metric threads not NPT.

You know, I wondered that myself... The 1/8" didn't feel "right" but Kinetics told me that's the same fitting they use in all their kits.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Turbocharge your MK4 VR6 Thread (Weiss)*

can't wait to see this car this summer http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Tom Long (Sep 21, 2007)

*Re: DIY - Turbocharge your MK4 VR6 Thread (18T_BT)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Awesome DIY


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## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

I miss my dubdub...







My Acclaim sucks and it's slow.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (Weiss)*

Take the van out then


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## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_Take the van out then









Beh, it's slow at 14psi and no bottle.







Waiting on our Stage 5, 3 bar ECU to come back in.... been a week now.







Vendors for our Turbo Dodges suck ass...


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## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

Mmmmm.... tomorrow.


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## Edsquickvr6 (Apr 29, 2003)

*Re: (Weiss)*

nice http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (Weiss)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Weiss* »_Mmmmm.... tomorrow.

Went to work at Summit today and picked up my parts! Wooo!!!!!








Complete 4" intake system.








Turbonetic's 38mm WG, 1.5" open dump tube.








AEM Wideband








3" exhaust V-bands for Tom!
















3" downpipe








Throwing most of it together tomorrow... I'll have to wait to build the intake, exhaust, and hot side pipes until the turbo arrives in 2 weeks. 
I still need my oil return line, intercooler, misc. silicone couplers, and whatever else I'm missing which I can't think of anything.









WWWWwwwwwwweeeeEEeeee!!!11!!1!!!!!!!!!!!
This is everything I bought just today, minus the turbo. Rims were already there. lol


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## Tom Long (Sep 21, 2007)

*Re: (Weiss)*

Do work son! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
And moderator, get this stickied, plz!


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## vr6_Love (Jun 29, 2006)

*Re: (pOrKcHoP bOy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pOrKcHoP bOy* »_Do work son! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


yeah boii


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## jdubb531 (Mar 5, 2008)

for the tb ground u can use the same wire and put it somewhere closer..thats what i did


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## Yetti 1.8t (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: (jdubb531)*

do you really need to re-use the evap system crap. it would be so much easier to just cap or filter those two lines. if i'm wrong just explain that would be greatly appreciated


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## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (Yetti 1.8t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Yetti 1.8t* »_do you really need to re-use the evap system crap. it would be so much easier to just cap or filter those two lines. if i'm wrong just explain that would be greatly appreciated

Probably not required but I'm trying to keep it simple.


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## Yetti 1.8t (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: (Weiss)*

well thats why i ask because i'm trying to get rid of everything i dont need in the bay. and let me know how the dp comes out on that side i'll be startin on mine very soon.


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## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

Gettin' work done guys! Should be done in about 2 weeks.


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## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

Here's a quick teaser for you guys.
http://s388.photobucket.com/al...n.flv


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## Tom Long (Sep 21, 2007)

*Re: (Weiss)*

Nice clip! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (pOrKcHoP bOy)*

Look what I got today.









Big turbo....
















Big intercooler.... 








And a pic of where it sits in my garage. I know you guys love the background, too.







Of course, "The Real Ego Hurter" on the left... 1 of 13 long wheelbase turbo vans ever made in the middle... and on the right is our first 13 second van (cleeeeean too).










_Modified by Weiss at 6:06 PM 3-8-2009_


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## sgolf2000 (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: (Weiss)*

build looks great, just have a question about your arrows you drew for you evap lines in regards to your check valves. they point towards the tank, but in a thread i posted a few months ago you stated 

_Quote, originally posted by *Weiss* »_
Make sure you can suck through towards the intake and CANNOT blow through towards the EVAP line/gas tank. 

just want to make sure i have mine right.


_Modified by sgolf2000 at 8:15 PM 3-8-2009_


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## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (sgolf2000)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sgolf2000* »_build looks great, just have a question about your arrows you drew for you evap lines in regards to your check valves. they point towards the tank, but in a thread i posted a few months ago you stated 

just want to make sure i have mine right.

_Modified by sgolf2000 at 8:15 PM 3-8-2009_

Ooh yes, thank you for reminding me. I'm actually going to hook up my air hose to it to verify it's in correctly. The arrows I drew where just for directional purposes not actual flow.


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (Weiss)*

More from today...
























The way it sits...


----------



## jdubb531 (Mar 5, 2008)

*Re: (Weiss)*

looks amazing..i need to mount my front moutn any tips?


----------



## Tom Long (Sep 21, 2007)

*Re: (Weiss)*

Just get a shorter filter for your catch can so you can close that hood








Other than that, nice snail and good progress!


----------



## jdubb531 (Mar 5, 2008)

*Re: (pOrKcHoP bOy)*

the catch can's hose is coming from that fat hose on the head where u fill the oil??? and do i have to have that?


----------



## dragonfli_x (Jul 16, 2002)

*Re: (jdubb531)*

wow - it looks so familiar... san\s the battery when I moved it to the back for better weight and more clearance








looks good man - what size is that turbo again?
wyntonm (I think) sells some really REALLY nifty turbo stuff on eBAY...
went to verociousmotorsports for my piping needs
c2 was my hero with Jefnes programming for 42lb inj
local buddies who liked doing backwoods welding hooked me up also. I can't wait to see urs done! ... why such a small FMIC though?
I hope you did a clutch upgrade - if you need a cheaper alternative, hit me up and I got some info that could help you out.


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (jdubb531)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jdubb531* »_looks amazing..i need to mount my front moutn any tips?

Just measure, measure, measure... maybe build an intercooler from cardboard to ensure it fits everything, including bracketry, bumper cover, bumper, and other accessories. If bolting it up to something, I'd suggest using rubber bushings between the bolts and brackets to suppress vibrations.


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (pOrKcHoP bOy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pOrKcHoP bOy* »_Just get a shorter filter for your catch can so you can close that hood








Other than that, nice snail and good progress!










Thanks Tom. Your car has been and always will be my inspiration for moving forward on this. 
I should have this started by Friday or Sunday at the latest if we don't run into any surprises.


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (jdubb531)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jdubb531* »_the catch can's hose is coming from that fat hose on the head where u fill the oil??? and do i have to have that?

Yes sir. That's for the PCV system. You need to evacuate the system pressure somehow. Ideally drawing it out is the best... if it gives me issues I'll duplicate the setup I made on the Minivan by drilling another hole to run to the intake pipe to suck it out. 
The reason I used a catch can was to collect the moisture that accrues by the oil vapor. I like a clean engine bay and no oil fumes floating around. You actually see quite a bit of fumage stemming off the breathers when running.


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (dragonfli_x)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dragonfli_x* »_wow - it looks so familiar... san\s the battery when I moved it to the back for better weight and more clearance








looks good man - what size is that turbo again?
wyntonm (I think) sells some really REALLY nifty turbo stuff on eBAY...
went to verociousmotorsports for my piping needs
c2 was my hero with Jefnes programming for 42lb inj
local buddies who liked doing backwoods welding hooked me up also. I can't wait to see urs done! ... why such a small FMIC though?
I hope you did a clutch upgrade - if you need a cheaper alternative, hit me up and I got some info that could help you out.


The turbo is a configurable setup from Turbonetics, 60-1 F157... It's a 60 series, 60-1 compressor cover and wheel (.62 AR) and a T3 turbine with a Stage 3 wheel (.82 AR). 
I chose a smaller FMIC because I couldn't go to tall. I wanted to keep the bumper cover on and not touch the bumper itself due to safety reasons. If I couldn't go tall, I'd sure as hell go thick. It's a 5" thick core.


----------



## Tom Long (Sep 21, 2007)

*Re: (Weiss)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Weiss* »_It's a 5" thick core.

Beefy http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dragonfli_x (Jul 16, 2002)

*Re: (pOrKcHoP bOy)*

yikes! 5" core?! talk about your girth issues







"It's never gonna fit in there!"







bet you get that all the time!... 
maybe if you were running a much more forward mounted bumper... I'm thinking Jay Leno style, but seriously... how is this going to fit? I luve what I'm seeing! keep up the joyousness!
you need to address your radiator issues or seriously, that 5" FMIC isn't going to fit. I trimmed my rebar a bit and it turned out pretty good. already running HG spacer?


_Modified by dragonfli_x at 7:02 AM 3-9-2009_


----------



## jdubb531 (Mar 5, 2008)

*Re: (Weiss)*

but since my intake goes on the same side for me i can have a hose going to my intake like stock


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (dragonfli_x)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dragonfli_x* »_yikes! 5" core?! talk about your girth issues







"It's never gonna fit in there!"







bet you get that all the time!... 
maybe if you were running a much more forward mounted bumper... I'm thinking Jay Leno style, but seriously... how is this going to fit? I luve what I'm seeing! keep up the joyousness!
you need to address your radiator issues or seriously, that 5" FMIC isn't going to fit. I trimmed my rebar a bit and it turned out pretty good. already running HG spacer?

_Modified by dragonfli_x at 7:02 AM 3-9-2009_

Trust me, it fits. lol








Thanks for all the compliments guys! Hoping to start it on Sunday. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## VRnasty08 (Jun 19, 2008)

*Re: (Weiss)*

how much have you spent so far?like for all necessary things.jw.if you dont mind saying


----------



## djtreson88 (Apr 26, 2007)

*Re: (Weiss)*

bump im trying to turbo my vr so bad and now u enlightened me


----------



## Vortexpert (Apr 17, 2008)

*Re: (djtreson88)*

subscribed... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## jdubb531 (Mar 5, 2008)

*Re: (Vortexpert)*

what are u doing for intercooler piping and are you starting your car without the piping??


----------



## 5inchMAF (Sep 12, 2007)

*FV-QR*

wow this is f#@king detailed!!!







that turbo simply looks amazing!!!







for you http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
what is the link to in your sig? do you _really_ have a turbo minivan?


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (BIGGEE TALLS)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BIGGEE TALLS* »_wow this is f#@king detailed!!!







that turbo simply looks amazing!!!







for you http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
what is the link to in your sig? do you _really_ have a turbo minivan?








Thank you! I had a beer on you last night while wrapping it up, thanks. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Haha, that's turbo minivan. It's the same one in the garage pic on the left. My GTI won't even come close to it.


----------



## 5inchMAF (Sep 12, 2007)

*FV-QR*

^^^please please post a few pics of the minivan....engine bay would be great!!


----------



## Tom Long (Sep 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (BIGGEE TALLS)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BIGGEE TALLS* »_^^^please please post a few pics of the minivan....engine bay would be great!! 

That van is a beast, it takes out stock evos and corvettes on the 1/4 strip, runs 13s and traps over 100mph
Bryan - post up the vids, I don't know if you can since they are hosted on s t r e e t f i r e


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

I went over on my bandwith from Photobucket but, if I understand right, it should reset and come back up within a month.








Anyway... IT RUNS!!
Lame video for just now.








http://media.putfile.com/Turbocharged-VR6


----------



## Yetti 1.8t (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: (Weiss)*

looking very good man.


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (Yetti 1.8t)*

It runs! Looks good!


----------



## jdubb531 (Mar 5, 2008)

*R*

wow real nice .is the piping custom?


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: R (jdubb531)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jdubb531* »_wow real nice .is the piping custom?

So custom.


----------



## jdubb531 (Mar 5, 2008)

*Re: R (Weiss)*

did u buy a kit or order an assload of piping?


----------



## sgolf2000 (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: R (jdubb531)*

that is some large diverter piping. sounds real mean.


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: R (jdubb531)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jdubb531* »_did u buy a kit or order an assload of piping?

Well at first the kit was ordered off Ebay, but I bought it off my buddy. Since the BOV hard pipe was polished I decided to do the cold side in ss pipe to match.
Basically I couldve done it all with about 3 or 4 U-bends from Summit. Which I will do eventually, all in 3".


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: R (sgolf2000)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sgolf2000* »_that is some large diverter piping. sounds real mean.

Thank you.







The DV piping will be redone in 1 1/2" hard pipe so it wont be so ugly. I might give it to my guy who welded everything this weekend, as I'll be in Florida for Spring Break.


----------



## dragonfli_x (Jul 16, 2002)

*Re: R (Weiss)*

what you going with for clutch upgrade?


----------



## FaelinGL (Nov 28, 2004)

*Re: R (Weiss)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Weiss* »_
Thank you.







The DV piping will be redone in 1 1/2" hard pipe so it wont be so ugly. 

If you are so inclined, you can buy a 1" aluminum pipe from Lowe's ($10). Rent a 1" conduit bender from Sunbelt. ($12) Fill with sand ($3). Plug the ends ($5). Heat with a propane torch and bend. You will have a solid piece with no welds







It does need to be polished though.








Mike


----------



## Tom Long (Sep 21, 2007)

*Re: R (FaelinGL)*

Well done Bryan http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif You owe me some videos


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: R (Tom Long)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Tom Long* »_Well done Bryan http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif You owe me some videos









A quickie!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v..._page


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: R (dragonfli_x)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dragonfli_x* »_what you going with for clutch upgrade?

Stock still, but I think it may be slipping a tad...


----------



## pimS (Jan 7, 2009)

Sounds great!


----------



## sgolf2000 (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: R (Weiss)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Weiss* »_
A quickie!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v..._page

so much for break in.. car sounds sick though


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: R (sgolf2000)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sgolf2000* »_
so much for break in.. car sounds sick though

What break in? I didn't touch the long block or the trans.


----------



## FaelinGL (Nov 28, 2004)

*Re: R (Weiss)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Weiss* »_
What break in? I didn't touch the long block or the trans. 

x2
Mike


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: R (FaelinGL)*

More updated pics.
Oil return all done.









Don't mind the recirc. . . I'm having a SS pipe welded over to help purty it up.









Tucked away.









5.0 Mustang injectors.

















My $50 down pipe. Suck it you rip off companies!










Front mount interfooler...








I'll add more to the DIY when I have time. F*ckin' busy as balls right now with work, G/F, car, and other shat.


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

Oh... and after 4 days of driving. Here's the word.
AWESOME!!
After an oil feed line leak, a small return line leak, 2 separate occasions where a coolant plug cap cracked it ran great! No drips or smokes yet.
I do hear a few exhaust leaks in the system... cylinder 5's plug wire isolator grommet broke off so now it's missing, I have 3 codes (ECT high output, Cam sensor high output, and A/F mixture inaccurate)... the stock trans and side motor mount aren't holding up too well, when it misses u can hear it hit the body... it's got a high idle once warmed (could be due to ECT sensor (if it thinks cold it set a high idle)).... oh! and the stock clutch hates 10psi. Time to change to a lower psi spring.










_Modified by Weiss at 1:34 AM 3-20-2009_


----------



## thisismike (Aug 30, 2006)

*Re: (Weiss)*

**** that sucks. time for some engine mounts and clutch.


----------



## jdubb531 (Mar 5, 2008)

*Re: (thisismike)*

atleast your car started right up... this is mine http://s30.photobucket.com/alb...e.flv


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (jdubb531)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jdubb531* »_atleast your car started right up... this is mine http://s30.photobucket.com/alb...e.flv

So does it live now, then?







Sounds beastly. 
Anyway, I'm going to Ocala, FL this week for some much needed time off. Which, btw, if there's any VW guys in the area I'm always down to shoot the sh*t or grab a couple or beers. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








While I'm away I'll have my buddy (the same guy who did all the welding for me) take off the turbo and weld up the rain tray, weld in a metal tube for the DV valve (bc it's ugly as sin), and route my dump tube more parallel with the downpipe and exit it at the floor. 
Once that's all done and I get my matching set of 18's on it I'll see if my big boss would be fancy the idea of doing some import coverage to showcase Summit's involvement with the Sport Compact scene.... we shall see..... 


_Modified by Weiss at 8:28 AM 3-21-2009_


_Modified by Weiss at 8:29 AM 3-21-2009_


----------



## jdubb531 (Mar 5, 2008)

*Re: (Weiss)*

still doesnt live..either its fuel or my ecu


----------



## thisismike (Aug 30, 2006)

*Re: R (Weiss)*

im hoping to get my car started tomorrow. i sitll have to wire in my boost controller and run my intercooler piping.


----------



## jdubb531 (Mar 5, 2008)

*Re: R (thisismike)*


_Quote, originally posted by *thisismike* »_im hoping to get my car started tomorrow. i sitll have to wire in my boost controller and run my intercooler piping.

did it start??


----------



## jdubb531 (Mar 5, 2008)

*Re: R (jdubb531)*

so it turns out the ecu didnt have the same codes as the cluster therefore it stopped my car from starting..it can be corrected with vag-com...i was right all along woohooo


----------



## trouble1mk (Sep 25, 2005)

*Re: R (Weiss)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Weiss* »_More updated pics.
Front mount interfooler...








I'll add more to the DIY when I have time. F*ckin' busy as balls right now with work, G/F, car, and other shat. 


do you still have the coolant cooler on front passenger side?


----------



## broke_rado (Nov 5, 2008)

*Re: R (trouble1mk)*


_Quote, originally posted by *trouble1mk* »_

do you still have the coolant cooler on front passenger side?

12v dont have that.


----------



## FaelinGL (Nov 28, 2004)

*Re: R (broke_rado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *broke_rado* »_
12v dont have that.

MKIV's do...maybe not the MKIII?
Mike


----------



## 05JettaGLXVR6 (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: R (broke_rado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *broke_rado* »_
12v dont have that.

MK4's do.


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

do you mind saying how much everything cost you?


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: R (05JettaGLXVR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *05JettaGLXVR6* »_
MK4's do.

Mk4s do. I deleted mine because my intercooler piping ran right in it.


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (derekb727)*


_Quote, originally posted by *derekb727* »_do you mind saying how much everything cost you? 

I'll add it all up eventually. I got lots of discounts on stuff at work so I got it cheaper than anyone can. I think around $2,500 though.
Also... my buddies car...








...runs 12.90s... and my car walked his on the highway!





















That was at 7.5psi... I'm back up to 10psi now. How fast is this car?!


_Modified by Weiss at 9:13 AM 4-13-2009_


----------



## nofear0788 (Mar 2, 2007)

*Re: R (Weiss)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Weiss* »_
Mk4s do. I deleted mine because my intercooler piping ran right in it. 

x2
its just serves as a secondary radiator. mine came right out and i plugged up the main hose the runs into the top of the radiator. 
Since ive done my build ive yet to hit over 190 degrees except on my first track day, fan relay was shot..made 5 passes and sat in the pits all day without a fan running.


----------



## braupe (Jun 7, 2008)

*Re: R (nofear0788)*

I really need to do this.... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Good work!


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

Thanks for all the compliments guys... here's basically the finished product. I still need a new shifter cable, 18's for the front and finish my 3" cat back...


----------



## Tom Long (Sep 21, 2007)

*Re: (Weiss)*

Looks good man http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

Going on the dyno today. I'll post results late tonight!


----------



## FaelinGL (Nov 28, 2004)

*Re: (Weiss)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Weiss* »_Going on the dyno today. I'll post results late tonight!

Only 10psi? I can understand if you are just breaking in the turbo however.
Mike


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (FaelinGL)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FaelinGL* »_
Only 10psi? I can understand if you are just breaking in the turbo however.
Mike

Stock comp. ratio and stock fuel pump are holding me back... my parents took it because I had to work today. But she texted me over some very impressive numbers for just 10psi. I haven't seen the dyno chart in my hands yet, so I wont say yet of what it did.


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (Weiss)*

The numbers. 333 WHP and 296 Lb/Ft of Torque at only 10psi
The torque curve is barely noticable... sorry.


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (Weiss)*

Good numbers!!!!


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

Video.
http://videos.street fire.net/video/My-Turbocharged-VR6-GTI_647445.htm
Remove the space...


----------



## Tom Long (Sep 21, 2007)

*Re: (Weiss)*








http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## VeeRar6ix (Apr 5, 2007)

*Re: (Weiss)*

nice! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## vr6jettagli (Mar 30, 2008)

NICE! any street videos?


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (vr6jettagli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vr6jettagli* »_NICE! any street videos?









Not yet. I might get some this weekend for you guys.


----------



## FaelinGL (Nov 28, 2004)

*Re: (Weiss)*

Good numbers for what you've got setup. AFR looks solid on up to 6500...are you sure the fuel pump is holding you back?
Mike


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (FaelinGL)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FaelinGL* »_Good numbers for what you've got setup. AFR looks solid on up to 6500...are you sure the fuel pump is holding you back?
Mike

That's not my biggest concern right now. As of my current setup I'm mostly concerned with turning the boost up any higher on the stock compression ratio without physically seeing my timing advance/retard and knock. I need VAGCom... So far I see no salt and pepper on the porcelain. So far so good but I wont risk any higher.


----------



## Vaughan gti mk4 (Aug 24, 2008)

*Re: DIY - Turbocharge your MK4 VR6 Thread (Weiss)*

Nice http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

Been having this problem lately... if I touched the MAF harness or the blue/yellow wire in particular the car would die... as of the last 3 days the car would do it just driving. It finally died going down the hill into my driveway, luckily... I replaced the pin terminal in the MAF for the blue/yellow wire thinking that was the most likely cause.... the problem ended up being the MAF sensor itself... $225 later from the dealership and we're back at it.


----------



## Tom Long (Sep 21, 2007)

*Re: (Weiss)*

Glad you got it resolved http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (Tom Long)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Tom Long* »_Glad you got it resolved http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Glad I got your smellin' tires out the back of my car.


----------



## Norwegian-VR6 (Feb 6, 2002)

*Re: (Weiss)*

Good luck, and have fun!


----------



## braupe (Jun 7, 2008)

I would love to see some good vids of this beast in action, maybe some hwy pulls.


----------



## Mad Chef (Oct 30, 2004)

*Re: (braupe)*


_Quote, originally posted by *braupe* »_I would love to see some good vids of this beast in action, maybe some hwy pulls.

x2


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (braupe)*


_Quote, originally posted by *braupe* »_I would love to see some good vids of this beast in action, maybe some hwy pulls.

Well if I can keep the damn thing running I would try... car is now running real lean, missing, hunting for an idle and running like poo.... it throws 3 codes...
MAF low input
IAT HIGH
Lean long term - of course it's lean, my WBO2 says so too.








The first two don't make sense... low MAF voltage would mean less air flow (quite the opposite of lean) and high IAT voltage would make the vehicle think it's cold outside and supply more fuel (or perhaps disregard as it would compare it against the ECT as well... )hmmm....
I'm going to double check my MAF wiring tomorrow. I smell burning plastic once it warms up. Maybe the wires running in the rain tray are melting over the turbo.
It was running fine after I put in a new MAF from VW dealer. I let it sit a day and a half while I redid my coolant feed in braided line, modified my stock heat shield and installed that, and also took the filter from right on the MAF to a 90* and set the filter where the washer reservoir was. 
I even removed the filter and ran it open MAF thinking it was having a difficult time measuring but it still ran like sh*t. 
What you guys think? Bad MAF? Bad wiring??


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

Fixed the car. THe elbow right before the MAF I rigged up was causing the air to tumble to much and it wasnt very laminar for the MAF to read. 
All better now. Videos to prove it. Nothing special yet, just some messing around. I'll get you guys some better ones eventually. 
I'm thinking of going racing this weekend, so I will definitely have videos of that.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AUMMT7xF2JU


----------



## Tom Long (Sep 21, 2007)

*Re: (Weiss)*

Damn that van is quick! Looks like it hurt your ego there Bryan lol








Nice kill on the SRT-4! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## braupe (Jun 7, 2008)

Looks and sounds awesome. U make me want to build a turbo kit for my vr.


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

Just took it to the track. Best time was 13.8 at 108mph. I spun all the way through until 3rd gear. If I want to keep racing it I'll certainly need a better trans. 
I'll keep it a highway killer for now.


----------



## braupe (Jun 7, 2008)

Well it sounds like traction is the issue for sure, but that still buts you ahead of the most typical Mustang GT's. (most mustang drivers can't drive...)


----------



## djtreson88 (Apr 26, 2007)

*Re: (braupe)*

i agree mustang drivers cant drive


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

Looks like my 71,000 mile stock bottom end could only hold 333WHP. Shattered the ring land, took out the wrist pin and the little end of the rod. Not sure in which order... 
Gotta buy a beater now to get around. Should be buying another engine around August. 



















_Modified by Weiss at 11:37 AM 6-22-2009_


----------



## Marcusvr6 (Mar 3, 2009)

*Re: (Weiss)*

hi,,, wait what happen?.... how many psi did you put on ur vr6?


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (Weiss)*

did you tear it down yet fully? was it a heat issue?


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

Video of the season so far... 
http://videos.street fire.net/video/The-VRT-Video_692092.htm
Just remove the space and copy the link.


----------



## Soundwave_vr6 (Oct 1, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Nice vid. how much boost were you running on the dyno? 10psi?


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Soundwave_vr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Soundwave_vr6* »_Nice vid. how much boost were you running on the dyno? 10psi?

yes sir


----------



## Soundwave_vr6 (Oct 1, 2007)

*FV-QR*

nice. need to dyno mine. 300hp is the goal







sh!tty that it blew up. how long did it last ?


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Soundwave_vr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Soundwave_vr6* »_nice. need to dyno mine. 300hp is the goal







sh!tty that it blew up. how long did it last ? 

Only 3 months... I didn't tear on it all the time. Guess I just got a crap piston was all.


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Weiss)*

Redoing some things on it before I put the newish engine back in. I found a used 1997 MK3 engine about 20 minutes from me for $500 with 60,000 miles on it with only 5,000 on the clutch!








(sorry for the huge pics)
In the mean time, I redid my intercooler pipes...
















All the pipes and intake manifold will be painted like a smoke Grey color with clear coat. I'm also tapping more vacuum ports in the manifold like I should have originally.
Not taking anymore chances I installed an oil pressure gauge...








I'm also ditching my 2.5" catback and building a 3" system. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 








That's it for now!


_Modified by Weiss at 10:49 AM 7-13-2009_


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

Replacement engine is here, intake manifold, throttle body elbow, and intercooler pipes are painted and ready. Just need to strip down the MK3 engine, paint it, clean my engine bay, install my new shifter cable, and finish my rear exhaust section. . . THEN it's done.


----------



## Yetti 1.8t (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: (Weiss)*

that really sucks man i'm really suprised you popped it. i ran 12psi all day. good luck and hope it turns out


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (Yetti 1.8t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Yetti 1.8t* »_that really sucks man i'm really suprised you popped it. i ran 12psi all day. good luck and hope it turns out 

I think I just had some bad luck. Hopefully I'll have better chances with the Mk3 engine.


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (Weiss)*

Newish engine is here!







60,000 miles, 5,000 on the clutch. Guy delivered it for $420.








Clean it up a little...








Just sitting there...








Primer...








I love how we can just pull the front clip off and swing it out the front door.








Flat black with clear coat for best heat dissapation. 








Medium gray metal with clear coat...again to dissipate heat and look pretty.
















I broke off an exhaust manifold stud today, tearing it down. After that set-back is taken care of I can go ahead and clean it, paint it, and bolt it back together.
_Modified by Weiss at 5:29 PM 7-18-2009_


_Modified by Weiss at 7:08 PM 7-18-2009_


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

My dad got the stud out for me today. I have to jump on the turbo minivan first so we have something to drive. After that I should be able to go back on the VW. Hopefully next week I can finish it up.


----------



## Yetti 1.8t (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: (Weiss)*

i thought the motor mount holes were different on the mk3 and mk4 engines. but i could be wrong. just make sure you keep those mk4 cams in the motor since they have the runner compensation built in and the mk3's dont


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (Yetti 1.8t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Yetti 1.8t* »_i thought the motor mount holes were different on the mk3 and mk4 engines. but i could be wrong. just make sure you keep those mk4 cams in the motor since they have the runner compensation built in and the mk3's dont

The holes are all the same for the mounts and accessories. I forgot about the cams, I'll just leave the MK3 ones in there. I'm lazy right now.


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

MK3 swaps into a MK4 are a royal pain in the a$$...


----------



## V-dubbulyuh (Nov 13, 2005)

*Re: (Yetti 1.8t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Yetti 1.8t* »_i thought the motor mount holes were different on the mk3 and mk4 engines. but i could be wrong. 

The later Mk3's have the same mounting holes in the block as the Mk4's do. There was a change in the block ~ 96, ie most of the OBD2 blocks will work. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (V-dubbulyuh)*


_Quote, originally posted by *V-dubbulyuh* »_
The later Mk3's have the same mounting holes in the block as the Mk4's do. There was a change in the block ~ 96, ie most of the OBD2 blocks will work. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Yup, my holes were there for the mount but I had to tap them.


----------



## Tom Long (Sep 21, 2007)

*Re: (Weiss)*

Good progress Bryan!
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Yetti 1.8t (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: (Tom Long)*

i really suggest swapping the cams. since your intake isnt runner compensated your front and back cylinders would be hitting peak tq and hp at different rpms. which can be catastrophic to a motor. and it doesnt take more that 30 minutes to do.


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (Yetti 1.8t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Yetti 1.8t* »_i really suggest swapping the cams. since your intake isnt runner compensated your front and back cylinders would be hitting peak tq and hp at different rpms. which can be catastrophic to a motor. and it doesnt take more that 30 minutes to do. 

Problem is, I would also need to swap the entire timing set from top to bottom. I have a 96 block, the last year for the dual timing chains. MK4s use a single chain. I've seen other MK3s with a SRI run just fine daily drivin on stock cams. I hope I don't have any issues.


----------



## 05JettaGLXVR6 (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: (Weiss)*

Late '96 had single chain. You might get lucky. Or you may have already pulled the valve cover. 

Btw i have a set of mk3 cams and mk4 cams in my room Both a have the same part number other than the last letter. One is an N is one is a E. Ive never seen proof of them actually being different.


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (05JettaGLXVR6)*

It's almost done.








New 3" exhaust. No, that's not a fart can... just a really big Dynomax Ultraflow muffler.








Made this little bugger, too...








I kind of like how the injector harness turned out.
















She means business.
















All I have left is to put the front end on, run the charge pipes and intake, install oil pan and return line...and I think that's it.







Maybe Friday.


----------



## FamousEric (Jul 17, 2007)

nice...


----------



## CorvetteKillerVr6 (May 9, 2007)

*Re: (FamousEric)*

Dood!
i love you SAI cover plate...









looks familliar...








love your progress dude,
mines running good finally.
i ordered a Tial 38mm wastegate and a Rotomaster


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (CorvetteKillerVr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorvetteKillerVr6* »_Dood!
i love you SAI cover plate...









looks familliar...








love your progress dude,
mines running good finally.
i ordered a Tial 38mm wastegate and a Rotomaster 
 lol oh ya I'm cheap so I build my own stuff. Good to hear yours is finally running good. Do you any videos of proof?


----------



## FaelinGL (Nov 28, 2004)

*Re: (Weiss)*

I did the exact same thing for my Kombi valve block off plate







But when I installed the intake spacer, I found that I could no longer use that mounting point so I put a freeze seal in.
Mike


----------



## CorvetteKillerVr6 (May 9, 2007)

*Re: (FaelinGL)*

the new charger and wastegate will be on this week and ill have tons of vids personally dedicated to you my man!
haha
im going to Vagkraft on the 16th!
cant wait, im cruising from Montreal to Brampton with the Unitronic boys!!


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (CorvetteKillerVr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorvetteKillerVr6* »_the new charger and wastegate will be on this week and ill have tons of vids personally dedicated to you my man!
haha
im going to Vagkraft on the 16th!
cant wait, im cruising from Montreal to Brampton with the Unitronic boys!!









Awesome man! Can't wait to see it in action.
Hit the key last night aaaaand it doesn't fire. I'm thinking, like originally, the cam sensor has too much air gap and wont pick up a signal. I'll verify that later today.


----------



## kurty85 (Sep 17, 2007)

*Re: (Weiss)*

I have the same problem right now it's ready to run but i get no spark, brand new crank sensor, checked all grounds, fuses, ignition, nothing...


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

Up and running.








http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yy2HDh1XGg8
Dropping it off at my dad's dealership tomorrow to finish the exhaust and charge the A/C.


----------



## FaelinGL (Nov 28, 2004)

*Re: (Weiss)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Weiss* »_Up and running.










Chode, you're supposed to tell us what was wrong that you brilliantly figured out!








Mike


----------



## 05JettaGLXVR6 (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: (Weiss)*

Vacuum leak!!! lol


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (FaelinGL)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FaelinGL* »_
Chode, you're supposed to tell us what was wrong that you brilliantly figured out!








Mike

Don't know. lol I replaced my O-ring gasket between the block and oil cooler and then it started after that.


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (05JettaGLXVR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *05JettaGLXVR6* »_Vacuum leak!!! lol

I'm thinking it does, too. It smoothed out a lot once it's warm.


----------



## CorvetteKillerVr6 (May 9, 2007)

*Re: (Weiss)*

lookin good dude!
sounds awesome like that!
haha
good work son


----------



## boravr6NS (Jan 5, 2008)

*Re: (CorvetteKillerVr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorvetteKillerVr6* »_Dood!
i love you SAI cover plate...









looks familliar...








love your progress dude,
mines running good finally.
i ordered a Tial 38mm wastegate and a Rotomaster 

What size turbo did you buy?


----------



## CorvetteKillerVr6 (May 9, 2007)

A Rotomaster T3/T4 60-1
0.63 A/R turbine 0.70 A/R compressor
should work out great


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (CorvetteKillerVr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorvetteKillerVr6* »_A Rotomaster T3/T4 60-1
0.63 A/R turbine 0.70 A/R compressor
should work out great

Was that the one you bought on Ebay? My buddy was going to give me one for helping him with his twin turbo Foxbody... hmm...
I also think that's the same exact specs on mine. However it's just a 60 series. 
BTW, I just found out today when I put my order in for my turbo I ordered the .63 A/R housing instead of the intended .82.







http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
I'll try and swap that this winter. Top end will be dumb then.


----------



## FaelinGL (Nov 28, 2004)

*Re: (CorvetteKillerVr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorvetteKillerVr6* »_A Rotomaster T3/T4 60-1
0.63 A/R turbine 0.70 A/R compressor
should work out great

I'm thinking that you're closer to a 1.02 if have a 4" intake...
Mike


----------



## CorvetteKillerVr6 (May 9, 2007)

*Re: (FaelinGL)*

yes the one thats on it now is the cheapo ebay P.O.S
and it leaks out the seals, these things dont last long if yourpushing more than 7-10 psi.

the new one i have coming is from Clay at CTS turbo, its a Rotomaster.


----------



## CorvetteKillerVr6 (May 9, 2007)

*Re: (CorvetteKillerVr6)*

and my intake goes 4"-3" with a 90degree silicone elbow

its definatly a cheap ebay t3/t4 with 0.63 hotside and 0.50 coldside http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








and the new one is the Rotomaster t3/t4 0.63 hotside and 0.70 coldside


----------



## boravr6NS (Jan 5, 2008)

*Re: (CorvetteKillerVr6)*

I have the the same turbo on my vrt, you might want to reconsider the ar though....








Mine has the .82 ar hot side.....Spools 20psi at 3800 rpm, then hang on







, This ar is actually perfect, because with the torque the vr has i can shift around 3500 rpm and stay out of the boost to be completely stealth, it's like having two cars in one.
I had a t04e with a .63 ar and it spooled up a little early for my taste.


----------



## boravr6NS (Jan 5, 2008)

*Re: (FaelinGL)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FaelinGL* »_
I'm thinking that you're closer to a 1.02 if have a 4" intake...
Mike

The 70 ar 60-1 compressor has a 4 " inlet, no matter what turbine is attached to it.


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (FaelinGL)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FaelinGL* »_
I'm thinking that you're closer to a 1.02 if have a 4" intake...
Mike

Standard Turbonetics' 60-1 turbos have a .70 A/R including a 4" intake and roughly 2.375" inducer.


----------



## CorvetteKillerVr6 (May 9, 2007)

*Re: (Weiss)*

yeah u guys are right.
i had to go order a 4" to 4" 90degree silione coupler 
4" intake all around now, including the turbo inlet


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (CorvetteKillerVr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorvetteKillerVr6* »_yeah u guys are right.
i had to go order a 4" to 4" 90degree silione coupler 
4" intake all around now, including the turbo inlet









*****n' right! Go big, man.


----------



## CorvetteKillerVr6 (May 9, 2007)

*Re: (Weiss)*

so i forgot to ask..
did u drop the compression with the new bottom end using a spacer or is it still 10.5:1?


----------



## adaptorman (Dec 12, 2007)

nice therd weiss, , couple of things i were woundering ,odd why piston went at 10psi , i know a fair few stock 2.8 12v vr lumps holding 400bhp , on stock clutch , as it usely gearbox thats the week point as , my mates went (3rd gear) u know the pipe u ran from the blow off valve back into the airfilter , ,is that helping as i assuming youll be thowing hot compressed air back into the turbo? love it howsall comeing back togther ,, and fingers crossed for the next run ...


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (adaptorman)*

Compression is still the stock 10:1. 

_Quote, originally posted by *adaptorman* »_nice therd weiss, , couple of things i were woundering ,odd why piston went at 10psi , i know a fair few stock 2.8 12v vr lumps holding 400bhp , on stock clutch , as it usely gearbox thats the week point as , my mates went (3rd gear) u know the pipe u ran from the blow off valve back into the airfilter , ,is that helping as i assuming youll be thowing hot compressed air back into the turbo? love it howsall comeing back togther ,, and fingers crossed for the next run ... 

I think it was a weak casting from the factory. We'll try again. I have to recirculate it due to where my MAF is placed, otherwise between shifts it would get awfully rich.


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

Swapped reluctor wheels from the MK3 cams to my MK4 wheel. All better but I bumped the timing and it idles like poop. Oh well. I'm not tearing the transaxle out again until winter. Away we go!


----------



## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (Weiss)*

you changed cam timing, how much?


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*

Still running good. Cam timing is off a bit so it misses a bit once starting out. It's real annoying but I've only have another month to tolerate it until I install my clutch.
















I'm taking it to the track again sometime in October before I put it away. IF I can get my slicks to work on it with some 1/4" spacers Im expecting at least 12.80s if not faster.


----------



## adaptorman (Dec 12, 2007)

love those alloys , realy suilt ur v dub ,,, ive all my fingers crossed here for you ,, matey ,really hope everything dose go to plan ,only thing im a bit worried is 10psi on a vr6 lump ,, i know u can run 10psi , but surely its limiting things , really think u should pop a compression gasket on , to be safe ,,,, always look forword to updates , ps my find runs a stock vr6t 12v with a stock cluch made my sachs (might have worded that wrong lol) and holds a good 20psi on 225 35 18 lol


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (adaptorman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *adaptorman* »_love those alloys , realy suilt ur v dub ,,, ive all my fingers crossed here for you ,, matey ,really hope everything dose go to plan ,only thing im a bit worried is 10psi on a vr6 lump ,, i know u can run 10psi , but surely its limiting things , really think u should pop a compression gasket on , to be safe ,,,, always look forword to updates , ps my find runs a stock vr6t 12v with a stock cluch made my sachs (might have worded that wrong lol) and holds a good 20psi on 225 35 18 lol 

Thanks man, I appreciate it.








I'm going to try a different approach on the VR engines and keep pushing my limits of the stock 10:1 compression ratio using VAGcom, alcohol injection, and lots of careful tuning. I hope to hit over 400WHP on 10:1 with no more than 15-18psi of boost. 
Good to know on the clutch as well. I could care less if I fry it. I'll be using an ACT come this winter.


----------



## adaptorman (Dec 12, 2007)

i really wish u best ,but ,i will tell you on stock pistons imsure u will blow the ring glads with the high compression ,for the sack of a head spacer to drop to either 8.5 or 9.1 as ive blown 2 attempting this but with a standalone system ,, keep the updates coming , its a great therd and i love the fact ur stock and attempting to push the extra limits of the vr engine lol


----------



## VR6DPLMT. (Mar 1, 2003)

*Re: (Weiss)*

If you have the time and money for head work(maybe bigger valves)help you hit 400whp on less boost(+cams possibly). I am thinking that might be less stressful on the engine itself. Good luck this was a great read. I started from the 1st page. Congrats.


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (adaptorman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *adaptorman* »_i really wish u best ,but ,i will tell you on stock pistons imsure u will blow the ring glads with the high compression ,for the sack of a head spacer to drop to either 8.5 or 9.1 as ive blown 2 attempting this but with a standalone system ,, keep the updates coming , its a great therd and i love the fact ur stock and attempting to push the extra limits of the vr engine lol

Really? Hmmm...I may just push my luck and buy a spare engine. It's not like these are hard engines to swap out.







I love being able to open up the garage door on these cars.


----------



## adaptorman (Dec 12, 2007)

just a bit of safe advise wiess , im on my 3rd and its starts to be a pain in the ass lol


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (adaptorman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *adaptorman* »_just a bit of safe advise wiess , im on my 3rd and its starts to be a pain in the ass lol

What software or fuel/ignition control are you using? How much timing?


----------



## adaptorman (Dec 12, 2007)

*Re: (Weiss)*

im in the u.k so unsure if ur fuel is differnert either 95 road use 14.8 afr/98 for track use
i runing megasquirt ms1 v3 ,my timing retarded in boost


----------



## broke_rado (Nov 5, 2008)

*Re: (adaptorman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *adaptorman* »_i really wish u best ,but ,i will tell you on stock pistons imsure u will blow the ring glads with the high compression ,for the sack of a head spacer to drop to either 8.5 or 9.1 as ive blown 2 attempting this but with a standalone system ,, keep the updates coming , its a great therd and i love the fact ur stock and attempting to push the extra limits of the vr engine lol

ringlands blowing is not due to high compression... it is due to detonation. tune out the detonation and you wont blow your rings anymore. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## adaptorman (Dec 12, 2007)

*Re: (broke_rado)*

nice one , still woundering about boost increese


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

I will datalog with VAGcom to watch any knock. I'll keep ramping up the boost and fuel until I reach the limits of the engine. I would really like to get to the point where I'm actually afraid to get in it.










_Modified by Weiss at 12:04 AM 10-5-2009_


----------



## adaptorman (Dec 12, 2007)

*Re: (Weiss)*

lol love the attiude







fingers crossed ,some footage and figure be arsome, ive a rough thought of 15psi


----------



## BLSport (Dec 24, 2005)

*Re: (Weiss)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Weiss* »_I'm going to try a different approach on the VR engines and keep pushing my limits of the stock 10:1 compression ratio using VAGcom, alcohol injection, and lots of careful tuning. I hope to hit over 400WHP on 10:1 with no more than 15-18psi of boost.

You can do it, careful tuning is key.
Tune your water/meth injection to compensate for your worst-case heat soak conditions, and you should be good to go.
Just be careful how you roll into boost, especially after a good heat soak and/or if your water/meth system hasn't been activated in a while, as you'll be relying more heavily on the water/meth to keep things under control with higher compression/boost; I monitor pressure at the injection nozzle in my water/meth system, and as a precaution I like to ease into boost in a higher gear like 4th or 5th to assure things are functioning correctly before I really lay into it.
Best of luck to you, looking forward to hearing good results.


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (BLSport)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BLSport* »_
You can do it, careful tuning is key.
Tune your water/meth injection to compensate for your worst-case heat soak conditions, and you should be good to go.
Just be careful how you roll into boost, especially after a good heat soak and/or if your water/meth system hasn't been activated in a while, as you'll be relying more heavily on the water/meth to keep things under control with higher compression/boost; I monitor pressure at the injection nozzle in my water/meth system, and as a precaution I like to ease into boost in a higher gear like 4th or 5th to assure things are functioning correctly before I really lay into it.
Best of luck to you, looking forward to hearing good results.









Yes sir. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Let me ask you, what do you use to monitor nozzle pressure? Linky??? 
I will, as well, be relying heavily on the water/meth. I use 15GPH worth on our van to get us over 25psi on pump gas.


----------



## BLSport (Dec 24, 2005)

*Re: (Weiss)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Weiss* »_Yes sir. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Let me ask you, what do you use to monitor nozzle pressure? Linky???

One of these guys...
http://www.mcmaster.com/#3460k61/=3xgrk0
Simple go/no-go configuration; fluid feed line to switch is post-solenoid/pre-nozzle, switch is tuned to actuate at approx 1/2 of full injection pressure, which lights an in-cabin LED when actuated (easier to monitor during operation than a pressure gauge).


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (adaptorman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *adaptorman* »_i really wish u best ,but ,i will tell you on stock pistons imsure u will blow the ring glads with the high compression ,for the sack of a head spacer to drop to either 8.5 or 9.1 as ive blown 2 attempting this but with a standalone system ,, keep the updates coming , its a great therd and i love the fact ur stock and attempting to push the extra limits of the vr engine lol

You were right...








Motor number 2 went a few months back... blew out the headgasket big time and damaged the bottom end somehow?? 
Throwing in "another" stock engine but this time with a 8.5:1 spacer and hopefully some alcohol injection with the aid of VAGcom. 
Man this car is expensive to keep up with.


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (Weiss)*

*It's not over yet...... * 

















Sh*t's broke...
















Spaced...








ACT sprung 6 puck clutch kit with 2,800lb pressure plate.








Paint.








Two down so far.








8.5:1 spacer and gaskets before the copper spray.








Reinforced, welded clutch fork.








Studs.
















Representing the local club.








Just waiting on the cylinder head. Getting new exhaust guides, valve stem seals, valve job, and it was decked .004". Middle of Feb. I'm hoping to have it together. 
-Bryan

_Modified by Weiss at 9:48 PM 2-4-2010_


_Modified by Weiss at 9:49 PM 2-4-2010_


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

Im hoping this engine holds together fine. Bought it used just the bare block with the rotating assembly already in at 90,000 miles.... pistons have some axial play from front to rear of engine, almost like bad rod bearings, the oil pump "I think" came with it had a ton of aluminum in the pickup, and the piston tops were carboned all to hell...
*sigh* we'll see. 
-Bryan


----------



## BLSport (Dec 24, 2005)

*Re: (Weiss)*

Will you be giving the bottom end a once-over before buttoning things up?
I meant to ask you shortly after the last motor popped... you weren't injecting water/meth at the time it happened, were you? I know you were talking about experimenting with it, but I got the impression that it wasn't yet up and running.
I'm thinking you'll have better luck this time around, you won't be pushing the envelope so much with 8.5:1 compression. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## mr_e1974 (Jun 6, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Turbocharge your MK4 VR6 Thread (Weiss)*

Adding this to my watch list because I now have a new inspiration to do a VRT... I bet that thing is TONS of fun...


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: (BLSport)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BLSport* »_Will you be giving the bottom end a once-over before buttoning things up?
I meant to ask you shortly after the last motor popped... you weren't injecting water/meth at the time it happened, were you? I know you were talking about experimenting with it, but I got the impression that it wasn't yet up and running.
I'm thinking you'll have better luck this time around, you won't be pushing the envelope so much with 8.5:1 compression. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

I was going to, but this added expense of another engine stopped me. I can pick up a nice Snow kit at cost. It will wait though.


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Turbocharge your MK4 VR6 Thread (mr_e1974)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mr_e1974* »_Adding this to my watch list because I now have a new inspiration to do a VRT... I bet that thing is TONS of fun... 

It as a ball. That's why I can't wait to have it running again. I just want to enjoy the damn thing and drive it, instead of it sitting in the garage with a chunk out of my wallet.


----------



## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

*Re: DIY - Turbocharge your MK4 VR6 Thread (Weiss)*

Sucks that you've had so much trouble...
I blew up the motor in the black corrado the week of graduation, and had to sell it. But I finally got another one. It's not in as good of shape, but I'm pretty sure I can bring it back to life. I kept all my turbo junk I had for the black one, so whenever winter decides to disappear, I'll start working on this one.


----------



## tojr1088 (Feb 25, 2009)

*FV-QR*

1.8t FTW lol just playing....i want to do a vr6 t in my gti but i already have 400 whp with around 25 psi of boost and 6 months no running problems....2 blown trannys tho....id definitely go 02m if u can afford it.....also with all the money spend on motors why not invest in some upgraded connecting rods, new piston rings, and run 20psi for almost 500 hp


----------



## tojr1088 (Feb 25, 2009)

*FV-QR*

vrt's can be very reliable and sometimes a little more money spent now will save that precious time and money later....just my 2 cents....good luck......also with ur second motor blowing....i beleive older vr6's had problems with piston slap on stock pistons which may explain why they failed at such low boost


----------



## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (tojr1088)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tojr1088* »_1.8t FTW lol just playing....i want to do a vr6 t in my gti but i already have 400 whp with around 25 psi of boost and 6 months no running problems....2 blown trannys tho....id definitely go 02m if u can afford it.....also with all the money spend on motors why not invest in some upgraded connecting rods, new piston rings, and run 20psi for almost 500 hp









I dont think piston rings and connecting rods have been mine problem... Factory pistons are hypereutectic and I'm sure upon pushing too much are first to go.


----------



## tojr1088 (Feb 25, 2009)

*FV-QR*

well factory 1.8t pistons i know from reputable engine bbuilders are good to 600 hp.......vr's are probably different.....but with the turbo your running if you really ever wanna go to lets say SHHHHHHH(20psi







) your gonna defintely need connecting rods fo sho....i actually recently talked to a guy at pagparts to build a kit for me for a vr6 and he said rod bolts and head studs are a most and rods are definitely recommended......but if ur not gonna push your motor dont bother i guess....its definitely cheaper than another potential new motor tho


----------



## tojr1088 (Feb 25, 2009)

*FV-QR*

bottom line if u just spend the money on those rods and pistons and a properly aligned and measured bottom end build....(and i mean lots of plastiguage) then i think you will be so much more happy knowing you can beat the piss out of your car with as much boost as u want and not have to sweat about it


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## CorvetteKillerVr6 (May 9, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (tojr1088)*

good work bro! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
3rd times a charme








and this time its low compression, and i think youll be good


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## Weiss (Jun 21, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (CorvetteKillerVr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CorvetteKillerVr6* »_good work bro! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
3rd times a charme








and this time its low compression, and i think youll be good









Thats what I'm hopin for.... we'll know soon.
Only thing holding me up now is the flywheel... machine shop has no specs on how much to turn it.


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## josemabad (Oct 19, 2010)

This thread have inspired to build my vr6 turbo... nice jod man.....:thumbup::thumbup: :laugh:


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## !!Wild Man!! (Feb 18, 2009)

You are only as strong as your weakest link. I am tearing my motor down hopefully I will just do this a few times too. Love the thread reference it all the time.
:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

As far as flywheel spec call James West at Fourseasontuning.com got my spec 3 from him he is the man.


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## mike minnillo (Sep 23, 2007)

Weiss said:


>


i know your thread is a little old, but this pic alone has been a big reference for me with my VRT build. not many people run the setup with the downpipe on the driver's side, so ive had to look at your pic quite a bit to figure out how to run all my stuff. of course, im a ways off from where youre at, but im getting there!


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## wwtap vr6 (Oct 9, 2008)

I am more interested in the 24v throttle body. If you still have that let me know,I need that as soon as possible thank you


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## v.i.massive (Oct 16, 2006)

any updates on this ?


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

v.i.massive said:


> any updates on this ?


Well, since the OP hasn't posted in 3 years; I'd wager not.


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## vtraudt (Mar 1, 2010)

*Stock ECU flashed?*

Why ECU removal? Sent in for flash?
How is boost control done? External wastegate?
Who did the ECU conversion/tune from NA to boosted?


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## vtraudt (Mar 1, 2010)

*12V or 24V heads*

Any thoughts on 12V vs. 24V heads?


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## Shinko (Jul 18, 2009)

*Engine Failure*

Greetings,

Check this out and tell me what you think:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=563163

For the TL;DR's out there.. Basically what they're saying is *NEVER* to use ScotchBrite to clean up an engine.

Scotchbrite seems so benign but it is death to engines. Scotchbrite pads are nylon fibers with 40 micron particles of aluminum oxide in them. Scotchbrite dust leaves behind all those 40 micron particles hidden everywhere. Aluminum oxide is an extremely aggressive abrasive. It imbeds in the bearings and eats the crank....and other things.

Interesting huh?


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## 16nkuhl (Sep 14, 2015)

*$$$$*

How much can a person expect to be set back from a build like this?


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