# Not sure this is what VW meant by "Multivan".....



## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I have been wanting a little camper of some sort for a long time. Unfortunately I live in a neighborhood where I can't just park a camper or any sort of "utility" vehicle. :banghead:

This means I either need to store a camper offsite or find one that will look like something else when its sitting in the driveway or fit in the garage. I really wanted something that could be used for everything from short trips to the park or long expeditions. So storing something just did not fit the bill. So a stealthy "minivan" style camper would due the trick. It also helped that I'm insanely into motorized vehicles and have a preference for the German style of craziness. :screwy:

Always looking for a deal and no minding a project, I set out to find a deal on a Eurovan that might need a bit of love......and found two:screwy:

First I discovered this wrecked 1993 Eurovan Weekender hiding in the mountains near me. Totally unfixable chassis. But I filled it away in my head in case I stumbled upon a deal on a Non-Weekender poptop. 











So about a week later I found a 2002 Eurovan GLS in New Jersey that was diagnosed with needing a new set of timing chains. Original owner van. Runs smooth, just won't idel. Offered the guy $1,300 and he took it. 

My logic is that ANY van of this generation is due for a timing chain replacement so why pay $8-$15k more for a running one and still have to do the timing chains



















I drove out to NJ and towed the Black van home. Took the time to visit some friends on the way. 

Then ran home and made a deal on the second van (the white Weekender) for $1,250  Stripped all of the interior and poptop bits off of it and parted out the rest. (made everyone that wanted parts a sweet deal, took any offer made and still pocketed about $1,400 










Off to the recycler after only owning it for about a week.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Put the 2002 GLS under the knife to get a new timing chain in it. I've done a lot of crazy and extensive jobs in the past but this thing is a chore:sly:










Since the car came from the east coast it has some typical corrosion on any exposed metal parts. I simply can't leave well enough alone so I have been taking my time to media blast every part I take off that needs it and adding some new shine to them:screwy:

I know nobody will even see some of these parts but I can't help but mod them as I go. 



















This is what happened last time I took a motor out of my Audi S4 just to give you a taste of the lunacy.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

From all the research I've done it seems possible to convert this thing to a manual transmission. The parts exist but are a bit of a Unicorn at the moment. So if anyone has a line on an 02G Manual for the VR6 let me know

The goal is to build something similar to this. Maybe in a VR6 manual:screwy::screwy:, or TDI swap,:laugh: and maybe even with syncro at some point. :screwy::screwy:


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## VW_Enthu1 (Oct 23, 2004)

This...is a great idea for a talented do-it-yourselfer. I thought about it when considering the prices as well as the fact that these transmissions - unlike wine - weren't going to get any better with age. While i am a do-it-yourselfer, I am far from talented and gave up on the idea. Its very doable to find totaled EVW's to get the roof and associated parts and GLS's (and their older kin) are a dime a dozen. I passed because even if I went to the trouble to do it, I would still be stuck with an older VW engine with the associated maintenance issues (non-issues to someone talented). I needed something that I can use every day if I have to.

I even researched if there was a different vehicle that I could use an EVW roof on easily. Nothing really worked - my hope was to put an EVW roof on a Honda or Toyota or anything else. No luck. 

Keep posting pictures - that's a great project and a great idea.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I've seen one fitted to a GMC Safari/Astro van. 

Those are cheap and easy to maintain. Also come with AWD at an affordable price. Just not as "Eurocool" as other options. 

I considered these but at the end of the day I just couldn't see myself really wanting to drive it. 

I also considered Sprinters but the prices are just too high still and I don't think any form of it would "fly under the radar" in my HOA controlled neighborhood. They all look just a bit too commercial.


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

Thank goodness your "good" body van is black. I think part of flying under the radar of the HOA is simply to have whatever vehicle NOT painted white, as white seems to be the de-facto standard color for commercial trucks and RVs.

Second, if your interior is stock, or at least has easily-removable fixtures for sink and stove that you can store in your garage and thus it resembles a passenger van inside more than a camper, you also should be good.

I would also (within the law) tint your windows so that it's hard to even see in.

If it's also on your radar to have some nice tasteful rims on the van, I think if you did that and also lowered it a little to make it more look like a freeway cruiser than a truck, that should also help.


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

BTW if you go on the German eBay and punch in "02G getreibe" there are a few results. You'll still need the shift linkage and pedals, etc. but it's a start.

2.5L TDI 02G gearboxes should bolt up to the VR6 from what I understand.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Yep....glad it's black too Didn't really want one that looks like a typical motorhome. 

I don't think anyone is going to be looking inside it when it's out in the driveway. (Which if I get the lift I want it will get a space inside anyway)

Windows are going to get a darker tint plus I have all the curtains from the Weekender. 

I'm undecided on lowering it a touch and running these wheels that are currently on my wife's S6 Avant. Which means I get to put even cooler wheels on the S6

Or doing a slight off road set up with mild lift and slightly bigger tires on the stock wheels since the van will explore the Colorado Rockies.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

gti_matt said:


> BTW if you go on the German eBay and punch in "02G getreibe" there are a few results. You'll still need the shift linkage and pedals, etc. but it's a start.
> 
> 2.5L TDI 02G gearboxes should bolt up to the VR6 from what I understand.


The main issue I've run into on the German eBay is that the guy that sells the most stuff there and usually has what I want, simply refuses to ship anything to the USA 

I've tried several times to get him to ship me some of the RS6 Avant bumpers he has for sale.


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## bigfatgeek (Feb 5, 2005)

*subscribed*

Eager to watch your progress. I wish I was closer to lend a hand if needed.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

bigfatgeek said:


> *subscribed*
> 
> Eager to watch your progress. I wish I was closer to lend a hand if needed.



So do I 


The procrastination has been strong with it recently:what:


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## Seano (Jan 2, 2003)

Xtremjeepn said:


> The main issue I've run into on the German eBay is that the guy that sells the most stuff there and usually has what I want, simply refuses to ship anything to the USA
> 
> I've tried several times to get him to ship me some of the RS6 Avant bumpers he has for sale.


Other options for sourcing include South Africa (there's at least one specialist wrecker/restorer of VW vans there) and Australia. Of course, you might have to pay more...


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Links?


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Here is the actual VW part number for the 02G DYA transmission that should work with the VR6. According to online sources you should be able to order this riot from the vw dealer for about $2,000:screwy:


02G300045CX


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Or doing a slight off road set up with mild lift and slightly bigger tires on the stock wheels since the van will explore the Colorado Rockies.


Sprinter size tires will fit with some effort (effort = European T4 PU rear springs and front torsion raised to max, and then some)

Here my work van's tire next to my "Sunday" 2002 18" Audi rims


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

EV99 said:


> Sprinter size tires will fit with some effort (effort = European T4 PU rear springs and front torsion raised to max, and then some)
> 
> Here my work van's tire next to my "Sunday" 2002 18" Audi rims



I've seen that picture before  but darn it, you never post a picture with them on!

I could roll a set of 37s on bead locks up next to my van ad take a picture too

If you get a chance I would love to see the picture of them on! Don't mind doing the work to lift it a bit. :laugh:


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> I've seen that picture before  but darn it, you never post a picture with them on!
> 
> I could roll a set of 37s on bead locks up next to my van ad take a picture too
> 
> If you get a chance I would love to see the picture of them on! Don't mind doing the work to lift it a bit. :laugh:












Hopefully this pic isn't way to big for here (does it re-size on here or no? Let's see...)

That thing is right now engine-less ready for it's 4 cyl TDI engine and 5sp (I5 TDI) MT transmission. All the parts are here ready to install but just haven't had time and still driving the (engine) donor car...

The white (02) in the background of the tire pic is key-less  lost my only FOB flip-key recently and not willing to spend the $$$ the dealer wanted to make a new one, and still I have no SKC code so... for $30 or so they cut me a new "emergency key" from VIN though so....


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Resized fine. Looks good:thumbup:.....and changed color. :screwy:


I've seen that picture too. Have both saved in my Eurovan/T4 build file


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Resized fine. Looks good:thumbup:.....and changed color. :screwy:


What changed color?


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

EV99 said:


> What changed color?


Well, now that I know you have two of them


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Well, now that I know you have two of them


+the 2 93's I am parting out right now = *4* they are called T*4* you know


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Don't mind doing the work to lift it a bit. :laugh:


I will say this though for it to work the (pickup) springs and the amount you have to raise the torsion bar really makes the ride less comfortable than I think you'd want for a "family camper" on my 99 (grey) one I don't care since it's def my heavy duty worker one, but yeah...


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

EV99 said:


> +the 2 93's I am parting out right now = *4* they are called T*4* you know


Yeah. I've been doing lots of reading on the vwt4forum.co.uk and some other international sites including Australia, Germany, France, etc. :screwy:


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

EV99 said:


> I will say this though for it to work the (pickup) springs and the amount you have to raise the torsion bar really makes the ride less comfortable than I think you'd want for a "family camper" on my 99 (grey) one I don't care since it's def my heavy duty worker one, but yeah...


I can see where that would be the case (turned up torsion bars and steep rear control arm angle with heavier springs) 

I spent about 10 years writing articles and building 4x4s for Rockcrawler.com back when it was more of a real magazine. I've even toyed with the idea of just scrapping the entire suspension and retrofitting solid axles using a 4-5 link and coilovers:screwy: figured I would get it running first and see what I really want to do with the van:laugh: If I started down the rethinking the suspension route I know momentum would get the best of me and before long it would be riding on 37s and fully locked up with 1 ton axles......:screwy:


These would look fine on it right? They were for the Jeep JK project Dan you can see the "Trail Clean up" community project truck in the background.


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Here's how the Germans do it 
























Granted this is NOT the T4 (Eurovan) but the T5 that no longer uses the torsion bar and a totally different engine angle too, and a front sub-frame "around" the engine.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I've seen that van and some of the videos. Figured it must have portals on it looking at the wheels, which is confirmed by your picture. Love portals but they have some obviously issues at highway speed. I'm sure that is not a cheap set up to put portals on all 4 corners. 

There were some US manufacturers working on Portal setups for awhile. They were just cost prohibitive and not durable enough for what most people wanted. (I should say the portal box itself was durable but the suspensions they attach to becomes the weak point, especially when axles like Dana 60s get broken around here)


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

There are Portal axle kits available in the USA, looks like it would cost about 10k in parts on top of figuring out the solid axle swap too. :screwy:


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> There are Portal axle kits available in the USA, looks like it would cost about 10k in parts on top of figuring out the solid axle swap too. :screwy:


There is a reason why Peter Seikel (who supplies these to Army and other professionals around the globe) never did this on the T4 (torsion bar setup perhaps?) 

This is as far as he went on the T4


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## EUROBORA8V (May 16, 2005)

EV99 said:


> Hopefully this pic isn't way to big for here (does it re-size on here or no? Let's see...)
> 
> That thing is right now engine-less ready for it's 4 cyl TDI engine and 5sp (I5 TDI) MT transmission. All the parts are here ready to install but just haven't had time and still driving the (engine) donor car...
> 
> The white (02) in the background of the tire pic is key-less  lost my only FOB flip-key recently and not willing to spend the $$$ the dealer wanted to make a new one, and still I have no SKC code so... for $30 or so they cut me a new "emergency key" from VIN though so....


Is that a Euro trailer?


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

EUROBORA8V said:


> Is that a Euro trailer?


It's a US sold Thule trailer that they no longer sell here...

This model but I put Honda Civic 13" steelies on it...










Pic shows Euro model though...mine doesn't have those taillights or triangles.

Rear looks more like this









Have been trying to find this type of film faced plywood in the US without any luck so far:










The thin sheet metal in the bottom of it both "drums" when you drive it empty and is easy to get dented and just isn't a nice solution...


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## EUROBORA8V (May 16, 2005)

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Thule doesn't sell trailers in U.S. period, right?

Very cool trailer. Proper car steelies do look better.


P.S. Any problems with importing a trailer from Europe? They are reasonably priced when used there and are much cooler.


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

EUROBORA8V said:


> :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
> 
> Thule doesn't sell trailers in U.S. period, right?


I think they only have some large special ones now, which are really US trailer with a Thule logo



EUROBORA8V said:


> Very cool trailer. Proper car steelies do look better.
> 
> 
> P.S. Any problems with importing a trailer from Europe? They are reasonably priced when used there and are much cooler.


I don't think it is very difficult but it is very hard to compete with these China ones when you can get stuff like this for http://www.harborfreight.com/950-lb...ailer-with-8-inch-wheels-and-tires-42709.html about $250 out the door with sales tax (after some discounts you can usually always get) those are VERY HEAVY and not very good, but they are CHEAP and practical in that they fold up. I've had a couple of them but you have to assemble them. But the Thule is almost half the weight but still can carry as much. The Thule one I have has a German made torsion axle.


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## EUROBORA8V (May 16, 2005)

EV99 said:


> I think they only have some large special ones now, which are really US trailer with a Thule logo
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think it is very difficult but it is very hard to compete with these China ones when you can get stuff like this for http://www.harborfreight.com/950-lb...ailer-with-8-inch-wheels-and-tires-42709.html about $250 out the door with sales tax (after some discounts you can usually always get) those are VERY HEAVY and not very good, but they are CHEAP and practical in that they fold up. I've had a couple of them but you have to assemble them. But the Thule is almost half the weight but still can carry as much. The Thule one I have has a German made torsion axle.


Very informative, thank you!


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

EV99 said:


> That thing is right now engine-less ready for it's 4 cyl TDI engine and 5sp (I5 TDI) MT transmission


Wait, huh?

You're mating a 4-cyl TDI motor (I assume of the Mk3 generation?) to a trans from an I5 TDI (I assume Euro VW T4 2.5L TDI)?

I thought the Mk3-ish 4-cyl TDI would bolt up to a 02B trans (like from a '93 Eurovan) and that the MT from an I5 TDI is 02G (same trans for mating to a VR6 gasser)?

Or am I confused on what mates with what?


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

gti_matt said:


> Wait, huh?
> 
> You're mating a 4-cyl TDI motor (I assume of the Mk3 generation?)


Yeah the 058 1.9 block the identical one VW themselves put into the T4 as 1.9NA and TD as you know.



gti_matt said:


> to a trans from an I5 TDI (I assume Euro VW T4 2.5L TDI)?
> 
> I thought the Mk3-ish 4-cyl TDI would bolt up to a 02B trans (like from a '93 Eurovan) and that the MT from an I5 TDI is 02G (same trans for mating to a VR6 gasser)?
> 
> Or am I confused on what mates with what?


There are both 02B and 02G I5 TDI transmissions out there:
http://www.t4-wiki.de/wiki/Getriebekennbuchstabe

The I5 TDI tranny I imported is an 02B one not an 02G.

While the EV 93 MT would fit the TDI 4 cyl engine it would be a very poor match in gearing, swapping the R&P, 5th gear (and preferably also 2-4 gears) will cost you same if not more as getting a "real" I5 TDI transmission.


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

gti_matt said:


> I thought the Mk3-ish 4-cyl TDI would bolt up to a 02B trans (like from a '93 Eurovan) and that the MT from an I5 TDI is 02G (same trans for mating to a VR6 gasser)?
> 
> Or am I confused on what mates with what?



Google translate:

"The 02G-gear was first built in 1996, the 02B-gear during the entire construction of the T4."

"the 02G transmission can transmit a higher torque. Accordingly, the 02B-T4 gear in the less powerful as the engines was AAB , ABL , but also the TDI engine with 65 kW ( AJT ) installed."

From here:
http://www.t4-wiki.de/wiki/Getriebe


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## CdnVWJunk-e (Jan 25, 2004)

EV99 said:


> Google translate:
> 
> "The 02G-gear was first built in 1996, the 02B-gear during the entire construction of the T4."
> 
> ...


Any pics of the 02G shift linkage? It appears to use different stuff than the B.


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

EV99 said:


> Google translate:
> 
> "The 02G-gear was first built in 1996, the 02B-gear during the entire construction of the T4."
> 
> ...



Hmmm intresting. I thought that the I5 TDI motors were exclusively 02G along w/the VR6.

So it sounds like it's really:

VR6 must use 02G

I5 TDI can use 02G *or* 02B bolt-wise (?), but the "lowest power" version can (and does) make do with 02B whereas the two "higher power" must use 02G

All I4, all I5 gas, and I5 2.4D use 02B


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

gti_matt said:


> Hmmm intresting. I thought that the I5 TDI motors were exclusively 02G along w/the VR6.
> 
> So it sounds like it's really:
> 
> ...


Yes I believe that should cover it. And the lower powered I5 TDI 02B transmissions are the "perfect match" for a NA I4 souped up 1.9TDI engine


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

CdnVWJunk-e said:


> Any pics of the 02G shift linkage? It appears to use different stuff than the B.


02B










02G










Wonder how compatible the parts are? I mean as we know the fact that VW used different parts doesn't mean one HAS to. VW also never stuck an I4 TDI into a T4


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

CdnVWJunk-e said:


> Any pics of the 02G shift linkage? It appears to use different stuff than the B.


Found this:

"Hi garage the 02g box is an Iveco unit the 02b is made by VW and is basically the same unit that was fitted to the early Passats And Golfs over here but with a bigger diff housing. You can fit the 02g but you will need nearly all the parts from the original vehicle such as driveshafts linkages clutch release etc. You should be able to swap the gears from the Golf and Passat boxes in theory to get higher ratios but i dont know of anyone who has actually tried it apart from the usual 5th gear mod. "

http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=204629

Also this:

"But it will be LHD which means the linkage will be useless."

http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=218906

(So don't buy it from the UK!)


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Just a little update. Took some time to work on the Eurovan today. (Only about an hour, I work slow)


Dropped the transmission out of the way. This thing will at least need totally cleaned up before going back in, and with a new external cooler. 










I don't see any obvious visible signs of anything wrong with the timing chain, tensioners or sprockets. But it's all getting replaced so hopefully this cures the problem and it really needed to be done anyway. Will also try to get all the carbon build up cleaned off all the sprockets etc before it gets assembled.....cause its a nasty mess in there!


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Just a little update. Took some time to work on the Eurovan today. (Only about an hour, I work slow)
> 
> 
> Dropped the transmission out of the way. This thing will at least need totally cleaned up before going back in, and with a new external cooler.


Having "been there done that" I was curious of what setup you used to pull the transmission? How did you get the engine forward the 5 or so inches needed etc?


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

The engine is 95% unhooked. Exhaust manifolds off, etc. 

Then I took the driver side shock and balljoint apart to give the transmission room to slide down and off the engine. 

So a little forward and down tilt.

Messy looking picture. I set the motor back up on jack stands so I could move the engine hoist back out of the way, then hooked it up again just as a safety catch.


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Here is my EV02 on my scissor lift using my own copy...












..of the factory ($900+) setup:











If someone DOES want to buy the original tool:
http://vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDetail.aspx?type=Tools&itemId=2450005


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

That looks like it would be way too hard to reach all the required bolts for a timing chain swap. 

Only took about 30 casual minutes to remove the entire front end.


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> That looks like it would be way too hard to reach all the required bolts for a timing chain swap.


It's tight but possible once the transmission is out.



Xtremjeepn said:


> Only took about 30 casual minutes to remove the entire front end.


Yeah front end isn't too hard to remove, did that on my 99 when removed the engine since the whole package was coming out and my lift was in use, nor is a scissor lift ideal for dropping the whole engine package.

On a "real lift" dropping it all straight down is very easy and fast no need to remove front end then.


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Found a couple more pics of when I did this, it's a while ago now..



















Love my lift!


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Nothing too exciting to report, just an update.

Spent a few hours and installed the transmission, triple checked the timing, hung the motor, exhaust, and installed the new trans cooler fittings.

Think I'm going to pick up new cv shafts, ball joints and spark plugs before moving forward. All those parts are taken apart now so may as well do them.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

EV99 your inbox is full:screwy:


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> EV99 your inbox is full:screwy:


Not any more


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## lekjaz (Dec 24, 2012)

I've got a 2000 MV that I love. I've done plenty of stealthy camping in the two MV's I've owned. With the curtains pulled, it's near impossible to see inside. I wish the windows were tinted a bit darker, but it works just the same. Camp sites around where I live run $500-700/month so being able to literally park and camp wherever it's free to park overnight is a real plus. I take it to Cape Cod all the time in summer!

Unlike the GLS model, the MultiVan has the rear facing seats and a bench seat that pulls out into a flat bed, and a pop up table and snap-in curtains for privacy. The Westfalia model came with all that plus the pop-up roof and curtains on tracks. And the Winnebago model was chopped and had its wheelbase extended by 6" or so and had a bunch of extra cabinets and a different bench seat/bed config. The Winnebago models are expensive to come by. I've had straight MVs with no pop-top and they're just fine by me. Then again, I'm only 5'6" tall and usually travel solo. I love the MV. I did the tranny on the first one and hope I never have to do that again. (Glad it was covered by an extended warranty - mechanic told me it would have cost $7K if I had to pay in cash.) 

I have only seen the VR6 engine in Multi-Vans. Not sure what they put in the GLS's. Frankly, I've never been much interested in the GLS. I typically use it for camping and diving. The MV with one seat taken out makes for an awesome rig to change up after diving. 

Current one is red, previous one was black. The red one is nicer - doesn't get as hot in the summer. Except for the Winnebago model, stay away from the 93's. I test drove a bunch of them and they weren't that great. 2000-2003 is the best years to get. Current one is a 2000, previous was a 2003.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

:screwy:.....


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

lekjaz said:


> And the Winnebago model was chopped and had its wheelbase extended by 6" or so


About 15", and they aren't chops. They are based on stock LWB cargo vans from VW. VW shipped them LWB cargo vans and Winnebago converted them into campers.



lekjaz said:


> I have only seen the VR6 engine in Multi-Vans. Not sure what they put in the GLS's. Frankly, I've never been much interested in the GLS.


The non-MVs are just passenger vans. Nice and roomy and comfy, but just passenger vans.

The VR6 was in all USA vans from 1997-2003 regardless of trim.



lekjaz said:


> Except for the Winnebago model, stay away from the 93's. I test drove a bunch of them and they weren't that great. 2000-2003 is the best years to get. Current one is a 2000, previous was a 2003.


They all have their issues really. 1997-2003s are generally known as ticking time bombs for their transmissions and timing chain issues. 1993s are generally more reliable (especially with manual transmissions) but they're just plain *old* by now so most 93s are worn if not maintained. The only big issue with 93s are automatic transmission woes (well, like the 1997+ VR6 autos really) and cracked exhaust manifolds that are NLA. 93s drive more trucky because of the more agricultural 5-cylinder but it's a tough and proven motor.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Unfortunately, I'm becoming very good at taking this van apart. 

I tore it back down to the cam tensioners today and discovered a small steel screen wedged in one of the tensioner valves. This thing was really stuck in there. Took needed nose vice grips and hooking the plunger up to 12v to get it to let loose! 

Put it all back together and it actually starts and idles!!!!!!!! 

Only rain for 5 min before having to run to an appointment, but early signs are that this fixed the issue and it should run now. I may go home and put the rest of the van together and see if its driveable now!!


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## kauboi (Nov 3, 2004)

Is that the piece that varies cam timing?
I think you posted something on the samba about giving them a full 12v to get them unstuck, but it looks like this was it. Is the screen part of it and came loose?
Glad its working:beer:


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Yep, that is one of two hydraulic valves that control the cams. They are powered by a 0-5v solenoid. 

I tried the 12v shock therapy method and it didn't solve the problem. After getting the screen cleared out I applied 12v again to test the opperation before reinstalling.

I've read about "cleaning out the screen" but have no idea where it really came from. (So, instead I have to clean out the screen itself :screwy it was seriously wedged in there.

The scary thing is it only took me about 3 hours to tear the van back down to the cam tensioners( upper timing chain cover removed) and back to running order.:what: Tomorrow I will slap the bumper and headlights on and take it for a test drive.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Well crap! 

Van ran, idled fine. So I put it all back together and took it for a test drive. Made it to the gas station an now it's back to its old 17755 cam sensor code and not idling or running well!!!

Ideas?


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Well crap!
> 
> Van ran, idled fine. So I put it all back together and took it for a test drive. Made it to the gas station an now it's back to its old 17755 cam sensor code and not idling or running well!!!
> 
> Ideas?


So was the chain(s) and/or tensioner(s) replaced with new ones?

Did you have this code BEFORE you started working on it?

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17748/P1340/004928


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I've read the Ross tech wiki. I have 17755 and not 17748 fwiw. Just one cam is not correlating. 

Chains were original until I just replaced them. Timing has been checked over and over and over and is dead on. All new chains, guides and tensioners. 

New crank position sensor (according to the PO as he tried this to fix the issue, factory sensor, looks new) 

I've moved the cam sensors from one bank to the next and the problem does not move with the sensor (so the sensors both work) 

I soaked the adjusters in deep creep and have run the van for about 20 min now with Sea Foam in it. Which seems to have liquified the sludge nicely since I did the cam chains. 

I cleaned out the metal screen on that was stuck in one of the adjuster pistons and the van ran and idled.....for about 10 min and now its back to its old behavior! 

Only code is 17755


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I've also run thorough all the adaptations and manually cycled the cam adjuster pistons to try to free them. (May try that again before tearing it all back down....again:banghead


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> New crank position sensor (according to the PO as he tried this to fix the issue, factory sensor, looks new)
> 
> I've moved the cam sensors from one bank to the next and the problem does not move with the sensor (so the sensors both work)
> 
> ...


So this issue was there even with the previous owner?


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

EV99 said:


> So this issue was there even with the previous owner?


Yes, that is why the van was $1,300....which was all explained in the first post


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Yes, that is why the van was $1,300....which was all explained in the first post


Has the transmission been replaced or repaired?


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

No. Factory original works fine and flushed often. 

This was a one owner van that came with all the service history. His mechanic told him it would be $5k to replace the timing chain so he sold it and bought a brand new Passat wagon.


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> No. Factory original works fine and flushed often.
> 
> This was a one owner van that came with all the service history. His mechanic told him it would be $5k to replace the timing chain so he sold it and bought a brand new Passat wagon.


Unfortunately these transmissions seem to be a completely hit and miss where some have broken despite frequent service, and others seem to have lasted even if they've been "abused" at least that's what the "unofficial" statistics from owners sharing their stories online tends to indicate.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I'll worry about that after I get it running


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> I'll worry about that after I get it running


Well no need to worry until it creates issues just a heads up


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I added a cooler kit to it while I had it apart since I will be running the van from 5k to 12k feet elevation often. The fluid is crystal clear with no signs of debris in it. 


.... Now.... Have any more ideas about the mystery code issue?


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> .... Now.... Have any more ideas about the mystery code issue?


Have you tried in here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/forumdisplay.php?42-2.8l-24v-VR6-Engine-Forum

Since that engine is really not Eurovan specific (it is by specs but components are next into identical to the passenger car VR6 of the same years)


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Update! 

I manually cycled the valve again with 12v and the van is running great:thumbup:


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Took it on about a 15 miles test drive and so far everyone is happy!



















Now to get to work on the fun stuff!


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Took it on about a 15 miles test drive and so far everyone is happy!
> 
> Now to get to work on the fun stuff!


My 02 is a "dog free zone" but they love it when they can come in my 99 that I will allow anyone and anything into )


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Love my dogs too much to have dog free zones! Bought the van to take the family, including the dogs, fun places.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

EV99 said:


> Sprinter size tires will fit with some effort (effort = European T4 PU rear springs and front torsion raised to max, and then some)
> 
> Here my work van's tire next to my "Sunday" 2002 18" Audi rims



What size are those tires?

What is the cost of the T4 pickup springs?


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Poptop installed........



Just kidding. This was just a quick test fit. Fits like a glove. Now it's time to strip the interior and start cutting:screwy:


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## jets (Oct 12, 2005)

I am really enjoying this thread, keep the reports & pics coming.


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> What size are those tires?
> 
> What is the cost of the T4 pickup springs?


 225/75-16 

I forget what I paid for the springs, imported them a couple of years ago now.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

EV99 said:


> 225/75-16
> 
> I forget what I paid for the springs, imported them a couple of years ago now.


Thanks, that is what I thought.

Do you know the part number on the springs? Anyone just use a rear spacer to maintain spring rate and frequency?


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Thanks, that is what I thought.
> 
> Do you know the part number on the springs? Anyone just use a rear spacer to maintain spring rate and frequency?


I did cheat with those twist in metal pieces to be able to even use my wheels/tires while my springs were coming but yeah can not by any means compare.

Spring info
http://www.t4-wiki.de/wiki/Schraubenfeder

As for spacers your van might already have them thick in there, ironically the newer lower ones also have thicker spacers, I have a set of the thickest spacers ABOVE and another set BELOW the springs. I believe some people out there make their own thicker spacers too..but in reality the front is the more limiting factor you can only go so much before your front inner CV boots start breaking (I'm beyond that and need to address that). There is a trick of pulling inner CV boots up a bit and tightening them down so they don't hit the control arm area.


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

EV99 said:


> There is a trick of pulling inner CV boots up a bit and tightening them down so they don't hit the control arm area.



See pics here on this subject:
http://www.furgovw.org/index.php?topic=205570.0

Great now I too don't have to dig for this every time I need it 

That site is full of great off road info here's some on springs etc
http://www.furgovw.org/index.php?topic=166818.150


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

EV99 said:


> See pics here on this subject:
> http://www.furgovw.org/index.php?topic=205570.0
> 
> Great now I too don't have to dig for this every time I need it
> ...



Probably a better solution for ride quality. Know where to get a set?


What is the wheelbase of the pickup? If its different than the SWB Eurovan then the frequency of the spring is going to be all wrong and screw up the handling and ride. (Rear spring not rebounding at the correct speed in relation to the front)


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Probably a better solution for ride quality. Know where to get a set?
> 
> 
> What is the wheelbase of the pickup? If its different than the SWB Eurovan then the frequency of the spring is going to be all wrong and screw up the handling and ride. (Rear spring not rebounding at the correct speed in relation to the front)


I ordered my from Germany directly. I can PM you about it.

It does make the van more like a utility van in ride quality but since that's exactly what I use this van for I don't mind, of course these 8 ply or whatever they are (actually PU tires) don't make it any softer either..

Just like all the other T4s you could get the pickup in the identical short wheelbase as our vans are and the longer wheelbase as you see in the full campers here in the US.


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## Seano (Jan 2, 2003)

King Springs from Oz have a local agent in the US. They supply upgrade rear springs for the utility T4s that lifted my LWB dual cab a further 40 mm over standard which'd already be nearly 40mm higher than the 'sport' suspension fitted to the US spec vans. Stock number is KVRR-15

However, your issue will be compounded by having the sport spec torsion bars in your EV rather than load spec that the Transporters have. So you may have a mismatch in suspension performance when you wind the front end up. 

But the real doozy is the need to recalibrate the load sensing valve in the brake system with the different springs otherwise you risk retarding braking balance and performance. It is not a difficult job to do (so I'm led to believe) but it is essential.


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Seano said:


> King Springs from Oz have a local agent in the US. They supply upgrade rear springs for the utility T4s that lifted my LWB dual cab a further 40 mm over standard which'd already be nearly 40mm higher than the 'sport' suspension fitted to the US spec vans. Stock number is KVRR-15


Yeah I looked into those but way over priced IMHO 



Seano said:


> However, your issue will be compounded by having the sport spec torsion bars in your EV rather than load spec that the Transporters have. So you may have a mismatch in suspension performance when you wind the front end up.


I believe my 99 doesn't have the torsion bar but I haven't been under there in a while now either, let me check ETKA. I'm completely happy with my setup but I am sure it's "not for everyone".



Seano said:


> But the real doozy is the need to recalibrate the load sensing valve in the brake system with the different springs otherwise you risk retarding braking balance and performance. It is not a difficult job to do (so I'm led to believe) but it is essential.


Yep no big deal, just like when you lower a car. I did my own wheel alignment too.


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Seano said:


> However, your issue will be compounded by having the sport spec torsion bars in your EV rather than load spec that the Transporters have. So you may have a mismatch in suspension performance when you wind the front end up.


Oh I misread you're talking about the front torsion bar, not the "anti-roll" bar as ETKA calls it. Oh yes it's all completely mismatched for sure! 

Just checked ETKA looks like most likely what I have is the 1000kg payload one, and while there is a PU one with that rating too, it's not the same part number.

Looks like the full camper and Rialtas in the US had 2000kg rated ones, hmmm


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Seano said:


> King Springs from Oz have a local agent in the US. They supply upgrade rear springs for the utility T4s that lifted my LWB dual cab a further 40 mm over standard which'd already be nearly 40mm higher than the 'sport' suspension fitted to the US spec vans. Stock number is KVRR-15


That local agent doesn't stock (nor deal) with the T4 springs, I did my homework on this back in 2009, here is the reply I got from King Springs directly:



> Thankyou for your inquiry
> 
> We have Part No KVRR-15 (rear) to raise your model vehicle approximately 35-40mm from factory std height. These have an increase in spring rate of approx 35%.
> 
> ...


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Time to start cutting!


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## kauboi (Nov 3, 2004)

Glad to see your past the cam issue:beer:
Question, you mentioned hauling a bike with your van, and I'm planning on doing that, but am wishing I could get a rubber mat to cover or replace the carpet with. I bet they are easy to find in Europe and the U.K., from guys going the opposite way and probably throwing the oem ones away..

Any floor ideas? My dirt bike would ruin carpet quickly...


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

kauboi said:


> Glad to see your past the cam issue:beer:
> Question, you mentioned hauling a bike with your van, and I'm planning on doing that, but am wishing I could get a rubber mat to cover or replace the carpet with. I bet they are easy to find in Europe and the U.K., from guys going the opposite way and probably throwing the oem ones away..
> 
> Any floor ideas? My dirt bike would ruin carpet quickly...



Funny you should ask. I'm just sitting here reading about the flooring the guys in the UK do. I really like some of the tile/wool look linoleum these guys use. It would make sweeping out the van easier. (Think camping when a vacuum isn't close by) Also cleaning up spills. 

The factory carpet is pretty thick. (Like 3/4")Looks like most of the UK conversions are on vans that did not have carpet to begin with. So they lay down rows of insulation between the ribs on the floor, then aluminum backed insulation, then 9mm plywood, then the vinyl or rubber flooring of their choice. 

I was trying to figure out if I could peel the carpet layer off of the insulation layer of my stock carpet. :what: That way I could keep the form fitting insulation piece and just cover it with vinyl. Might not be hard enough. Just not sure yet.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)




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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Go to VWT4Forum.co.uk and wander through the conversions section. LOTS of cool stuff there


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## mastermarine (Sep 17, 2006)

Nice job on your project. It is good to see that it is possible to pull the tranny without removing the engine.



Why put your dirty, muddy, stinky, oily bike in your nice van? :screwy:

Get a 3 rail trailer instead for a few hundred bucks. Works great! Easy loading. No problems. Happy wife!!!


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Because I live in a place where I can't own/store a trailer but can own/park a van

Costs less to insure a van than to store a trailer.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Stall on the top cutting. Had to pick this up for a friend.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I think I have a leak


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I got the hole cut today. Cut it in two sections. Figured that was enough for today. 

I was surprised at how heavy the panel is that I cut out. I've handled bodywork before but this chuck was just a bit heavier than I expetedl More than the fiberglass Poptop. So I would image the total weight gain won't be that much. 










The outline for 95% of the hole is pretty straight forward. Here you can see one of the rear rubber weather blocks just sitting in the rain Gutter where it will be installed. It only sits in one place. 











This is a front view of the same block (well technically the other side of the van) on the van I too the parts off of. You can see the hole simply lines up with the block. Which also happens to have a body seam right there too. All of the lines except the front half moon over the cab are just cut along the edge of the rain gutters. 












Laid the tape on here just to make it more obvious in the picture where its being cut. The rear frame member simply rests on that rib to the left of the tape after its cut. (Screws down to it) 













The rest of the rain gutter just gets cut along the edge under the tape. Leaving the 1" rain gutter for the frame to mount on. It overlaps a full inch so the cut itself does not need to be all that perfect.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Here is a good shot of one of the side frame rails and how it overlaps that rain gutter. This was on the parts van. 










Unfortunately they were stuck down with serious panel bonding crap. I had to soak them in lacquer thinner to get them to release and still bend the crap out of them to get them off the old van. 

Here is an example. This is the rear channel. 












All the channels fit and line up, but you can see they are still a bit wavy in this picture. (And after I spent an hour or so flattening them back out.) 

This stuff all fits under trim so it doesn't need to be perfect, just much better than in the picture. 

Screwing it all down will also help to get it flat on the van again.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

The front section is actually pretty simple. Before removing the front frame from the parts van I measured where it sat front to back. (Sorry no picture of it, maybe I will take one tomorrow)

It was just a matter of putting it up to the roof in the same spot and then tracing a line of where to cut. I made sure that the bolt holes lined up with the side frame rails and it all fits in place. 

Here is the front cut out.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Closer!


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## mastermarine (Sep 17, 2006)

Looking good!


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## bigfatgeek (Feb 5, 2005)

Nice work and pix. Keep it coming! 

:beer:


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

Nice job so far. 

What're your plans re: the rear A/C system?


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I'm keeping the rear AC, just not sure exactly how I'm going to rout it. You could literally just leave it uncapped in the back and it would blow one giant stream of air out across the top.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I've got a few tasks to do before getting the top all done. 

First I need to weld in some new nuts for the top hinges. The holes are a bit large for a rivnut and I can just weld some in. 

After that I will install the top fabric. Unfortunately the original fabric has a few wear holes and some mouse damage(more holes). l looked at the replacement tops and decided to fix this one up for the moment instead of spending $500+ for the replacement tent fabric. 


So instead I came up with a fun little idea. I found some great cotton canvas just like the factory tent and started making up some fun patches!


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## VW_Enthu1 (Oct 23, 2004)

I love this thread - this is probably my favorite post ever on this forum. I've been waiting for someone who had the talent and tools to do this as a home project: create a Weekender out of a base model. Awesome idea. Awesome project. Keep the updates comin. :beer:


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

VW_Enthu1 said:


> I love this thread - this is probably my favorite post ever on this forum. I've been waiting for someone who had the talent and tools to do this as a home project: create a Weekender out of a base model. Awesome idea. Awesome project. Keep the updates comin. :beer:


 Thanks man:thumbup: Good stuff to hear. Usually I just get told "it can't be done" when I dream up my projects:screwy: 

I was examining the interior trim pieces and it "looks" like the only hurdle will be where the rear AC trim lines up with the weekender trim. Nothing a little fab work won't cure 

The early overhead "Westfalia" trim panel looks like it will match up perfectly with the newer "A" pillar trim pieces. The early and late pieces look identical with the exception of these pieces have a handle on the pillar. So I can kinda keep the best of both worlds there. 

I'll also end up with a Weekender/Camper with rear AC which the factory ones didn't come with. So there are some actual advantages to converting one vs just buying one.


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

Xtremjeepn said:


> The early and late pieces look identical with the exception of these pieces have a handle on the pillar. So I can kinda keep the best of both worlds there.


 I miss those on my '93...my '00 had them. 



Xtremjeepn said:


> I'll also end up with a Weekender/Camper with rear AC which the factory ones didn't come with. So there are some actual advantages to converting one vs just buying one.


 I wonder why VW didn't make an attempt at that themselves? If you can pull it off IDK why did didn't. Lots of places in the side trim panels in the T4 to put air vents.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

It may simply have been done to maximize the bed space. Remember that these were offered through the factory but technically made by the sub contractor "Westfalia". Which means they were a conversion of sorts. 

Westfalia also made a full camper version of the T4 in Europe, so maybe there was a reason to ditch the rear AC on the full camper for space or? .....that carried over to the Weekender package.


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## afmoa (Apr 20, 2006)

*Wow- speechless*

I am just impressed with your patience on the VR6 solenoid issue! I am planning on slowly making my 03 EV more capable off road. You are an inspiration!


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

afmoa said:


> I am just impressed with your patience on the VR6 solenoid issue! I am planning on slowly making my 03 EV more capable off road. You are an inspiration!


 
Thanks! :thumbup: 


The pop top portion is pretty much finished! 












Most of the interior bits are in too. Lots of work left on the interior.


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## VW_Enthu1 (Oct 23, 2004)

Damn - awesome job. I'm honestly jealous. You have accomplished a cost-prohibitive feat in the US: obtained/made yourself a pop-up van without going broke. I love these vans - had two of them...the whole proposition became just too costly for me. Unfortunately, I had to get rid of my last one because I could not do the maintenance items myself. I DO miss not having a popup though. 

On that subject (bear with me here - I know I'm veering a bit on subject matter), I still want one of these...but one that any shop can service. There are zillions of pop-ups in Europe, but I obviously cant get one here. There are a few Weekenders here, but the VW service experience is not for me at this time. Howeverrrrr, there are many high top vans in the US (small and large - Caravan to GMC) with the roof hole already cut...and the fiberglass hi-top roof already created. I have long wondered about getting one - for example, a hi-top Caravan - and working with a customizer to determine if it is possible to customize hinges so the top could go up and down. The interior work could be cleaned up by my upholstery guy (including the new fabricated upper bed). 

Design thoughts anyone? potential problems? I'm curious about the ability of the top to be able to support the weight where the new custom "shocks" would have to mount. I could do this on the relative cheap and have a van that - from the roof down - would be completely stock and serviceable basically anywhere. Thoughts anyone?


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

There is at least one pop top fitter in Ft Collins, Colorado that will put a poptop on anything. To keep the cost down I'd start with a GMC Safari AWD. Endless and cheap drive train parts. I thought about fitting the Eurovan pop top to one.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

My plan was never or leave the top white, but seeing it on there I considered it a possibility to keep things "cooler". 


Neither me nor my wife could stand the look of the white top on the black van. Realistically, I've never and a heat issue with all of my black topped cars and Jeeps so I decided to make it match today. 

I thought about painting it to truly match but decided that using a spray on bed liner would be more appropriate for a van that will eventually have a cargo box, skis, snowboards, mountain bikes, etc on top of it. 

So here is today's minor update. 



















In the spirit of the original VW Camper I couldn't resist buying these yesterday. Not exactly VW original type stuff, but actually vintage Bascal, can't wait to taste a margarita out of these while camping :laugh: .....that means we have 6 extras....so who's in? :beer:


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## [email protected] (Apr 2, 1999)

Awesome stuff Cole, I love this project. :beer:


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## bigfatgeek (Feb 5, 2005)

Wow, looking great! And I love the anodized tumblers.


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## VW_Enthu1 (Oct 23, 2004)

D*mn I love this post. You're doing the stuff I wanted to do but didn't. I LOVE the idea of doing the roof in the black spray-on bedliner material - we talked about doing that to ours. It makes perfect sense, especially if you will be putting stuff up there. I'd bet big money that you wont see any difference at all in temperature in the van (its fiberglass and it has the internal "liner" made of plastic or who-knows-what). The semi-flat black looks great. :beer::beer:


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## Willius (Mar 21, 2006)

Xtremjeepn said:


>


 We're in! Crater Lake in June?


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Willius said:


> We're in! Crater Lake in June?


 Hmmm......let me see if Jeska can get the time off:wave: 

I was there in September with the KTM and my Buddy Dave Diamond from L.A.(Dave taking pictures....um.....while I'm taking a picture:screwy


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Eventually I want to do a full conversion, but decided to install the Weekender parts I had laying around so that we could use the van for a bit and "get a feel for it" before doing the rest of the conversion.m 


So here was today's project. Weekender table, trim, rear bed/seat and shelf. 

You can still see the GLS middle seat mounts in the floor. 

Th table required welding in the brackets. The lower one I was able to steel out of the parts van. The upper two I had to fabricate. 











The rear shelf and cubbies are just sitting in there at the moment. Had to take a few inches off the side of the cushion as board to fit with the rear AC unit. Not really a bit deal. The stock rear shelf couldn't be trimmed perfectly so I will probably just make my own version of it when I do cabinets. 











Neighbor neighbor kid helping me test it out!  











Full disclaimer, this post was written while drinking coffee at the table in the Eurovan for testing :wave::wave:


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

By the way. This is why having a parts van and making sure you get EVERYTHING is important. 

These are the rear catches for the back seat. The short ones are from my 2002 GLS, the long ones came out of the donor 1993 Weekender. Whey look the Same when mounted, but are obviously different lengths. I wouldn't have been able to install the seat without these.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

What fun is a thread without more pictures!  

Rained, then froze last night here. So a perfect opportunity for a few fun pictures to so the texture of the Bed Liner I painted the popup wiht:screwy:


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> By the way. This is why having a parts van and making sure you get EVERYTHING is important.
> 
> These are the rear catches for the back seat. The short ones are from my 2002 GLS, the long ones came out of the donor 1993 Weekender. Whey look the Same when mounted, but are obviously different lengths. I wouldn't have been able to install the seat without these.


 
Supposedly with spacers behind the shorter ones it can be done (I was informed by one who bought the rear seat from a MV I parted out, I never tried it myself).


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I'll toss a little tech in here. 

The top was full of mouse damage holes like this!  











I honestly don't think the $500 for a new top with 3 windows instead of the too I one(on the early years and two for the later years) is a bad price. But I kinda wanted to know how well the stock material and window set up worked before deciding on an upgrade /replacement stock option. 

Mst of it was held together with duct tape:screwy: 










As I mention above we cut some new canvas, glued it down with "Bish's Tear Mender" and then ran then through the sewing machine. Did some clouds and star shapes just for the fun of a VW Van!:screwy:


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

EV99 said:


> Supposedly with spacers behind the shorter ones it can be done (I was informed by one who bought the rear seat from a MV I parted out, I never tried it myself).


 Yeah, I could see that. Looks like the real distance needed was probably the difference between the two. So a few well placed washers wold probably work. But, you may loose a few behind the panels:facepalm:


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Yeah, I could see that. Looks like the real distance needed was probably the difference between the two. So a few well placed washers wold probably work. But, you may loose a few behind the panels:facepalm:


 I don't know what he used for spacers I think he told me but I forgot, don't think it was washers though. 

The hook is attached on top of the panel though so shouldn't be possible to drop anything _behind_ the panel from there?


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

That is not on top of the panel, it sits behind the panel about 3/4" and then has a plastic trim piece around it once installed. 



EV99 said:


> I don't know what he used for spacers I think he told me but I forgot, don't think it was washers though.
> 
> The hook is attached on top of the panel though so shouldn't be possible to drop anything _behind_ the panel from there?


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> That is not on top of the panel, it sits behind the panel about 3/4" and then has a plastic trim piece around it once installed.


 *YEP! You're right* just looked on my '02 GLS 
I only remembered you can get to the hook bolts without removing the panel that I did recall. Yes you can see and then get to the bolts once that little trim is removed, but you are completely right the bolts as such are behind the panel indeed!  Easy to forget things after a few months hence why I said "?"


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

No worries. :screwy:


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Th table required welding in the brackets. The lower one I was able to steel out of the parts van. The upper two I had to fabricate.


 So you welded in the brackets for the table? I was planning on keeping the table from one of the MVs I parted out for my "work van" but was considering bolting the brackets in, it even looks like they had spots designed/intended for that? Comment(s)? I haven't welded in like 25 years...


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Oh another question did you swap over the floor too? I was considering keeping the _"Volkswagen OEM plywood"_  and covering it with something durable. The GLS' don't have this wood, I guess it's for the bed to roll out freely? 










Removing those are "fun"


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Found another pic I took while pulling the EV93 MV floor nothing under the plywood (no insulation unlike the GLS'). 










On my 99 right now I only have a rubber carpet straight on the metal floor (that's my work van) and it's not the ideal solution, there's gap at the edges etc and wavy following the floor. I might have a pic somewhere let me see.. 


[EDIT] Found pics of when I removed the original EV99 carpet and put in the rubber carpet (this is my "work van") 




























This is the one I want to put the MV table in also and it's now engine and tranny less waiting for it's TDI swap


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

So here is a picture of the welded on tab in the donor Weekender. (Which I should have looked at before welding mine brackets in:what 










This is one of the little tab brackets I welded in for the table. Mine sits just a tad low when closed. This was more abou time than quality on this project since ultimately I'm taking this back out to do cabinets. 










It would probably be possible to drill a few holes and bolt in the upper brackets:thumbup: Welding was just a quick answer for me. 


Here I where the lower leg tab was mounted. You can see that it was reinforced with a piece of angle iron from the factory. This could absolutely be bolted int:thumbup: 










I welded down a piece of angle iron and then welded the tab to it.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

No. I didn't keep the floors. They were pretty nasty! 

I've been looking at the thread on flooring on the UK site. Not sure what I'm going to due yet. Want something custom and nice looking, but still insulated. 

Seems most of the UK builders put down insulation, then ply. I have considered trying to just peel the carpet off the ribbed insulation, then installing flooring over it. Then it would have some insulation, a touch of give, and still tuck in under the factory trim panels.


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> So here is a picture of the welded on tab in the donor Weekender. (Which I should have looked at before welding mine brackets in:what
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 I removed the whole bar (#2 in pic below) and that's what I was considering bolting into the side wall, not just the little tab. How sturdy does the table feel like that? This "support bar" for the table is not there on the GLS vans. Oh and yeah riveting it was my idea heh since it seems VW even had that idea at some point (see pic again ) I try to learn as much as possible from the VW parts prg.


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> No. I didn't keep the floors. They were pretty nasty!
> 
> I've been looking at the thread on flooring on the UK site. Not sure what I'm going to due yet. Want something custom and nice looking, but still insulated.
> 
> Seems most of the UK builders put down insulation, then ply. I have considered trying to just peel the carpet off the ribbed insulation, then installing flooring over it. Then it would have some insulation, a touch of give, and still tuck in under the factory trim panels.


 Well my plan (I obviously don't have any plans for the roll out bed) is to remove the carpet from the plywood, and fill in the holes that are in the plywood with cut out pieces, then install the already cut-to-fit rubber carpet I have in my EV99 on top of that (see pics I added above of the rubber carpet and how uneven it is now )


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Of the few things I missed on the parts van the support bar was on elf them. Just did not have the time to get it out. I'm sure it makes a difference. Would be simple enought to bolt one in if you have it, or fab one.


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Of the few things I missed on the parts van the support bar was on elf them. Just did not have the time to get it out. I'm sure it makes a difference. Would be simple enought to bolt one in if you have it, or fab one.


 Too much work to re-do it? Or you already dumped the donor body?


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

EV99 said:


> Too much work to re-do it? Or you already dumped the donor body?


 Donor body went to the recycler just a few days after I got it. I live in a typical suburban HOA neighborhood so I had no place to store it. 

Redoing it would not be a huge chore. But like I said the longer term project doesn't include the stock set up anyway. This will for fine for a few months while I work out the other ideas.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Okay, I have to share this. 


While I was searching for my Eurovan I would save all sorts of cool photos of Eurovans and Vanagons I found along the way. Mostly just to remember ideas of builds, mods etc. 

I stumbled on a cool cartoon sketch of one and saved it. This is it! 










After I found the black 2002 van online it started a long email conversation with the owner while we were negotiated the price and discussed the condition of the van. 

In our exchange of emails he sent me this sketch below through email. 










I replied and said...."Hey, that's pretty cool" and shared the one I had found earlier. His reply was "yeah, I drew that one too" :shock: 

Really? Sweet!  

So we have continued to talk and I have been emailing him updates on the van. At one point I kinds mentioned doing a "Transsyberia " theme like the Porsche Cayenne Transsyberia race cars. 

He then emailed me this.  












Today, this showed up in my mailbox!!!!:thumbup: 

Think I may need to finish the framing and find a place to mount it in the van when its done!


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Little update. 

I've finished the "Weekender" middle step of my conversion. The van now has full trim and 80% of the curtains in it. 



This concludes what I can do from the parts van. Now it will be moving forward towards a camper conversion and new parts. 

I have my first daughter due in two weeks  Which is part of the reason I wanted to get the "Weekender" version of the van done now! 


I need to order about 15 curtain sliders and 5 hooks. A total of $6.50 from GoWesty, but they want $8.05 to ship them. :roll: 

Also discovered that I don't have the rear curtain, no biggy, we can make one!

Need some seat swivels for the front seats now too. 











What you won't see on any stock "Weekender" or camper is is the Rear AC and controls! They must have just done it for space and cost savings. This is something I really wanted to keep with 2 dogs and an infant in my van! 













If you take out the giant tube that vents the rear AC to the roof this is how the panels line up. The big hole in the lower panel is a giant AC vent! 

I'm debating just making a vented lid for it and let it blow from this location or making duct work to route it further forward in the cab panels. 













Another shot of the rear AC unit with the curtain in. I really need to track down a replacement light to get ride of the ghetto set up from the previous owner. 


I actually kept all of the overhead lights from the GLS and plan on cutting holes in the trim to mount them with LEDs around the vans interior for a stock look but lots more light!


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Did a little strategic window tinting today. I wanted a bit more privacy than the factory tint offered and I wanted to keep it cooler inside for my dogs and soon to be born daughter. 


The front windows were clear. Now they are at 30%.

Since you look back through the slider and rear window when driving we only did 20% darker man those. 

The rest of the windows that you can't/don't really look through when driving were limo tinted. 






















Here is a good before and after shot of the side window.


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## VW_Enthu1 (Oct 23, 2004)

The window tint is a must for Weekenders - you'll love the difference. With it - in Atlanta no less - we could keep the back cool with the fan no higher than "2". Without it on a real hot day, it was just about impossible to keep the back cool. Given that you have yours darker than ours was AND the fact that you have vents back there as well, it'll be perfectly comfy. Good move.

Van looks great! :beer:


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Hmmm......not quite enough room for the wolf with the car seat in the middle. 











Hmm......not sure moving it helped :sly:












Hmmm.....maybe the front seat? :screwy:
















Nope.......
Finally figured out a spot he fits


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## Willius (Mar 21, 2006)

Liking the photos of the family dogs in the van. They make me smile. We've found the car seat works best for us on the passenger side so we don't have to reach so far when dropping the seat into the car seat base. Once your kiddoe gets big enough to climb in the van by herself and into the booster, scoot her over to the drivers side so you drop can your the next kid in the car seat on the passenger side. Although both of ours can now climb in the van without help from us. Um, children, not dogs...

Did your window tint guy voice any concerns about the tint job due to the sliding side vents? We REALLY want to tint our van and feel like it's going to be a grand $$ adventure. Any issues there?


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

The only concern they window tint guy voiced was about the dog fur

It was $250 to get the all done any color I wanted.

Made a huge difference. Both in privacy and comfort inside.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

A little photography humor.......


Just had our first daughter two days ago and was at the park and taking family pictures.










....no.....not VW family pictures......

These....


So first picture......DOH....wrong light settings....but got both dogs, (note the happy Australian Shepard :wink but wife and baby are too dark.











...adjust the settings....use a little flash. Got the wife...CRAP...Aussie laid down 











Walked around th van, "Whipped out the training commands and MADE the Aussie sit where I wanted :laugh: "

....not very happy with me is he? :what:


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## jets (Oct 12, 2005)

So Australian shepard is what you guys call them. Apart from the two touches of brown on his face we would call the breed a border collie.
Update,I just checked google & some have brown colouring.
The photos of the two vans together is interesting. Normally when I look at the split screen I think they are small compared with the T4 but in your picture it almost looks larger because it's closer to the camera.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

jets said:


> So Australian shepard is what you guys call them. Apart from the two touches of brown on his face we would call the breed a border collie.
> Update,I just checked google & some have brown colouring.



While similar a Border Collie and Aussie Shep are totally different breeds. Both insanely smart and energetic!


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## bigfatgeek (Feb 5, 2005)

Congrats to you and your wife! That's great. Now try to get as much sleep as you can for, oh, the next two years or so.


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

Congratulations!


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## MtnVariant (Sep 1, 2001)

Congratulation to you and your wife Cole.

Kids change your perspective in such a good way. Enjoy

Still like to do the coffee GTG you posted on yahoo ev.

Rob


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## impIIIe (May 9, 2007)

*Very nice work*

How much was the tint job?...is that shop off colfax behind the maaco?


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## impIIIe (May 9, 2007)

*Congrats on the new baby!!*

New babies are always a blessing...seeing an OG vw bus is awsome too!!


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Yep. Tat was the place $250 for him to do all the windows. .( anyway I wanted)


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Well darn it! The van developed a knock today. No idea what it is yet. Abandoned it and need to get the trailer to go get it!


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## a1junkie (Apr 26, 2000)

Time for a TDI conversion!


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

a1junkie said:


> Time for a TDI conversion!



My wife and I were discussing that while waiting for a ride home


The potential issues seem to be an intake rod failure, a rod bearing or a collapsed lifter. Won't know where exactly the noise is until I get it home and put a stethoscope on it. 

Sound seems mid engine, just can't tell if its top or bottom right now. (Full of nice clean oil too)


Might have to get one of the UK guys to ship me one of those fancy Diesels I can't get here!


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## kauboi (Nov 3, 2004)

aww, that sucks!:thumbdown:

I was just cleaning my cam adjuster/assembly and found that little screen that caused your problem with a tear in it...catching it now makes me a lot happier about doing the head gasket...did you replace yours? got a source or part number?

I hope yours turns out to be minor....


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## kauboi (Nov 3, 2004)

source for the screen, not the headgasket....


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

No idea on a source for the screen. Glad you caught it before having an issue. 


Why can't I ever do this crap when its 70* and sunny?

Of course the engine sounded fine when I pulled it on and off the trailer:screwy: 

I'll look at it later....after the snow storm!

(notice the flat trailer tire!......that was fun to fix in the snow too:what


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

Hope whatever it is that it turns out to be minor and/or easy. But OMG what is happening to the VR6s all of the sudden? Seems like everyone is having chain problems, chain guide problems, funny noises, head gaskets, etc.


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## VW_Enthu1 (Oct 23, 2004)

While I have no way of knowing if the knocking noise was the same, I experienced a similar event a couple of years ago on my 2003. It was probably about 45 degrees out and I was starting it for the first time of the day. I knew as soon as I started it in the garage that something was wrong - it was knocking and sounding like it was running on about 4 cylinders. I backed it out slowly - it was really sputtering - and got it out to the street. I thought it would clear up, but it stayed the same for a half a block so I turned it around and slowly limped into the driveway and shut it off.

After having nightmarish images of having to be towed to the dealer and facing some crazy $8K engine repair bill, I restarted it...and it was fine. The weird part? It never did it again. Not once. Ran perfect up until the day I sold it - I never did find out what caused it. No error codes...nothing.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I wish. 

Unfortunately it doesn't sound quite the same. 

We were on the freeway doing 75 when I thought I heard a little rattling. No loss of power and was running smoothly. 

It was in a spot where the speed limit was dropping from 75 to 65 and then to 55. There was a semi truck next to us so at first I thought it was just him slowing down. 

As we slowed the knocking became louder and it was obviously us. So I got off at the exit. Pulled over and checked the oil. Perfectly full and clean. Could hear the knock about mid engine(left to right) but couldn't tell if it were to or bottom. I sat there debating what to do. It was starting to snow and I had my 2 dogs, wife and 2 week old daughter in the van. Unfortunately we were in an industrial area. 

We were only about 5 miles from home though so I decided to restart it and see how it would do on surface streets. My big fear was letting mom and my 2 week old sit for too long without heat in a snow storm. Drove about half a mile and the knocking was getting louder, some power loss and smoking from the right side of the hood. 

That was far enough to pull into a Starbucks lot. Unfortunately still not the best part of town (east Colfax for anyone familiar). But at least I could get the family inside to wait in comfort for a ride. 

Our neighbor picked us up with only about a 20 min wait. Then i spent the next 4 hours fetching it in a blizzard. (had to go pick up my buddy's trailer on the other side of town, which was missing the straps, didn't have the right plug on it, blew a rotted valve stem off when Ioaded the van, etc)


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## VW_Enthu1 (Oct 23, 2004)

Oh. D*mn. Yeah...very different. That...does not sound good (not to overstate the obvious). Cr*p...I wish you some good luck on that one.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I'll at least toss a stethoscope on it and pull codes in the next few days. 

Need to put my 951 back together so I can get the van in the garage to work on it


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## EddieVanHagar (Dec 14, 2004)

subscribed !


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Well, the good news is that I distracted my wife with updating our magazine website long enough to get out and check out the van.  (you can check that out if you like www.MotumMagazine.com)

That is about where the good news ends.:laugh::thumbdown:

I fully molested the van with a stethoscope. Poked and prodded it in all sorts of inappropriate places and it sounds like its "probably" a rod knock. Is there, but too light to pinpoint exactly. So the next stage is to drop the pan and take a look. (Actually the next stage is still to fix the 951 so that I can work on the van inside. :screwy:

Anyone have a good source for rod bearings if it happens to be that simple of a fix?


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## [email protected] (Apr 2, 1999)

Cole can you take a video of the engine running?? I can pass it off to my VR6 guru and see what he says. 

Congrats on the new baby! :thumbup::beer:


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

[email protected] said:


> Cole can you take a video of the engine running?? I can pass it off to my VR6 guru and see what he says.
> 
> Congrats on the new baby! :thumbup::beer:



Thanks.:screwy:


I appreciate the offer but I think the next step really is to pull the pan. It barely makes any noise until you put it in gear, then it starts knocking(even at a stop, in neutral) the knock speeds up with rpm and is definitely the low end hammering type noise of a rod know. (I've spun a few bearing in my time on Chevys and Porsches:screwy

The stethoscope verifies the low end location of the sound. So a visual inspection is next. Oil is still clean so hoping its just a bearing and no scorched crank or rod.

I may try a video later just for the interest of the group.


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Thanks.:screwy:
> 
> 
> I appreciate the offer but I think the next step really is to pull the pan.


You never where in the bottom of the engine before right, or? So this should have nothing to do with anything you did previously, right?


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

EV99 said:


> You never where in the bottom of the engine before right, or? So this should have nothing to do with anything you did previously, right?


Nope. Never had the pan off.


All of the issues with this engine could have been caused by the oil crud that was in it. So who knows.


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## mastermarine (Sep 17, 2006)

Once I had a 12.5 KW Westerbeke generator that I was working on that had a horrible sounding knock coming from the engine. I was just starting to tell the owners of the boat how they should probably run into town and pick up the biggest portable generator they could find in order to save their vacation when I decided to pull off the plastic cover over the front of the engine. I was surprised to find that one of the belts had started to come apart and had a flap about 4 inches long flipping around and slapping on the brackets. I swear it sounded just like something was going to come out of the side of the block. New belt and all was good.

Maybe you have something similar or something is coming loose that you messed with when pulling the transmission to get to the timing chain? Hopefully something easy!! 

It looks like the pan is easy to pull from what I recall. Good luck!


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## irsa76 (Mar 28, 2003)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Love my dogs too much to have dog free zones! Bought the van to take the family, including the dogs, fun places.


Specific reason why I ditched the Rav in favor of my Citroen, was hoping to get a T5 Multivan but couldn't stretch that far this time. Need to carry the wife's Pyre:


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

mastermarine said:


> Once I had a 12.5 KW Westerbeke generator that I was working on that had a horrible sounding knock coming from the engine. I was just starting to tell the owners of the boat how they should probably run into town and pick up the biggest portable generator they could find in order to save their vacation when I decided to pull off the plastic cover over the front of the engine. I was surprised to find that one of the belts had started to come apart and had a flap about 4 inches long flipping around and slapping on the brackets. I swear it sounded just like something was going to come out of the side of the block. New belt and all was good.
> 
> Maybe you have something similar or something is coming loose that you messed with when pulling the transmission to get to the timing chain? Hopefully something easy!!
> 
> It looks like the pan is easy to pull from what I recall. Good luck!




Hate ti say it, but you just made me hope for rod bearing failure! :screwy:

They are 100x easier to get to and work on than any of the stuff I juat did. :laugh:


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

irsa76 said:


> Specific reason why I ditched the Rav in favor of my Citroen, was hoping to get a T5 Multivan but couldn't stretch that far this time. Need to carry the wife's Pyre:




You need a van cute pup !


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Here is a quick cell phone video of the knock. Sorry, only a quick idle shot since I didn't have an assistant.


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## bigfatgeek (Feb 5, 2005)

Sounds like somebody swapped a diesel into your engine bay when you weren't watching. :laugh:


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

bigfatgeek said:


> Sounds like somebody swapped a diesel into your engine bay when you weren't watching. :laugh:



Boy I wish it had just been a visit from the Diesel Fairy:laugh:


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## bigfatgeek (Feb 5, 2005)

Me too, I wonder what I can leave out to entice him/her to do an overnight swap. ≈16MPG on premium gets old. And expensive.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Took a few moments between snow storms to check the van out a bit more today. 

Nothing going on with any of the belts or pullies. 

Checked all the TC bolts and they are tight. 

Dropped some oil off the dip stick to look at it and good news......I got to play with my ancient macro lens! 










Unfortunately that is where the good news ended again. :screwy:

Here is what the oil looked like on a glass slide....um....okay, it was the bottom of a pint glass:beer:











....and just for my buddy Stan I also dropped some oil from the 928S4 on the pint glass. Its the amber colored stuff. Can't see it so well in this picture but the 928 oil is perfectly clear (and about a year old) vs the more grey/brown colored Eurovan oil that is filled with particles (and only weeks old)


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## kauboi (Nov 3, 2004)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Unfortunately, I'm becoming very good at taking this van apart.
> 
> I tore it back down to the cam tensioners today and discovered a small steel screen wedged in one of the tensioner valves. This thing was really stuck in there. Took needed nose vice grips and hooking the plunger up to 12v to get it to let loose!
> 
> ...


Hey, sorry to see that oil with whatever is floating around in it.....
do you think there was/is more of the metal screen than what was wedged in your cam solenoid? where do you think that screen came from? mines apart now, and I'm becoming afraid to reassemble...


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

My understanding is that the screen originally lived somewhere in the cam tensioner housing. 

But I really don't know. I'm sure that whatever chunk of crud that knocked it loose may also be starving oil to something else. 

We will just have to see when I take it back apart.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

.....I'd run out and work on it but.......










Waiting on parts to arrive to put my 951 back together. Once its together I can move it out of the way to work on the van next.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Well, something fun happened with the Eurovan today! The original owner, the artist of the below pictures, sent me the other two original drawing


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## _Growler (Apr 28, 2007)

That is pretty awesome that he sent you those.

Enjoy them.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Well the weather was MUCH nicer today. Got the new fuel lines on my 951 so that I could move it out of the way to work on the van inside. 

HATE having the 951 outside though.

The knock today sounded much different and seemed to be very much valve noise from the right side of the motor. Guess I will just have to take it all apart and look. 











A little classic Porsche Porn for those that like such things :laugh:













Back in the "work bay" :facepalm:


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## bigfatgeek (Feb 5, 2005)

Great fleet and garage, I'm envious of your setup.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

bigfatgeek said:


> Great fleet and garage, I'm envious of your setup.



Thanks.  Just a hardcore Motörhead.:screwy:


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

The number one sign I've done this too much already? 



.....this was only an hour of work from driving it in the garage 










When I started it up to pull it in the garage the knock REALLY sounded like it was coming from the valve train. I've also had some lingering cam codes so I figured I would pull the valve cover and take a look. Not a darn thing to be seen. Cam lock slides right into place when at TDC. Chain is tight. Nothing visually wearing or broken. :what:

Maybe tomorrow I can get and assistant to crank it for me while I watch and listen. Then pull the pan and look there. Unfortunately, that will require removing the right wheel, disconnecting the lower suspension arm, removing both the inner and outer driveshaft to access the pan bolts. FN silly! :screwy:


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I was having evil thoughts about trying to fit these to the Eurovan last night:screwy:


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Okay, I got about an 1.5 hours of work in on the van and need some input from you guys. 

Drained the oil and it was VERY silver and metallic looking. 

Every rod has some play to it. I can "fairly easily" wiggle the rods back and forth, but no noticable up/down movement. There was no obvious single rod problem. 

I pulled the bearing caps off a few of the "looser" rods and found some scoring on the rod bearings but the crank looks perfectly polished. 

Here was the worst of the group. (I was going to measure them but A) couldn't find the stock spec and B) the batteries in my calipers were dead)

Thoughts on this?


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## J_J_R (Jan 12, 2012)

"""Crank Journal Spec is 2.1243 to 2.1251 inches. It should be measured in 2 different places to check for roundness. 

Place a short piece of Plastigage (perpendicular) on the lower bearing half and install rod cap. Put oil on the threads and mating surfaces of the bolt heads. Torque to 22ft. lbs.

Remove cap and measure the Plastigage. Spec is .0008 to .0028"""""

Borrowed this from another thread. Will try to verify with my Bentley tomorrow.....

Keep us posted.......


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

J_J_R said:


> """Crank Journal Spec is 2.1243 to 2.1251 inches. It should be measured in 2 different places to check for roundness.
> 
> Place a short piece of Plastigage (perpendicular) on the lower bearing half and install rod cap. Put oil on the threads and mating surfaces of the bolt heads. Torque to 22ft. lbs.
> 
> ...


Thanks.


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## J_J_R (Jan 12, 2012)

Checked the Bentley today......

Crankshaft Specifications

Main bearing radial clearance (plasticgauge)
New parts................................0.02-0.06mm (.0008-.0024in)
Wear limit................................0.10mm (.0039in)

Crankshaft Axial play (side clearance)
New parts................................0.07-0.24mm (.0028-.0094in)
Wear limit................................0.30mm (.0118in)

Crankshaft Measurement
main bearing............................59.958-59.978mm (2.3606-2.3613in)
connecting rod bearing...............53.958-53.978mm (2.1243-2.1251in)

Connecting Rod Specifications

Radial Clearence (plastigauge)
new.......................................0.02-0.07mm (0.0008-0.0028in)
wear limit...............................0.10mm (0.0039in)

Axial Clearance
new........................................0.05-0.35mm (0.0020-0.0138in)
wear limit................................0.40mm (0.0157in)

Checking tourque...................30Nm (22ft-lb)


Hope this helps..... Let me know if you need me to look up anything else


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Very helpful! Thank you:thumbup:




J_J_R said:


> Checked the Bentley today......
> 
> Crankshaft Specifications
> 
> ...


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I got a call from a lady down in Colorado Springs that needed some help. She bought a GLS that was converted to a Poptop. It came with an interior but she had no idea how to install it. 

The conversion was not that great and the van had some other issues (van is green, top is blue) :screwy: 

She had been driving it for about a year basically with a bare steel cargo van interior and desperately needed to make is a more functional van for her family. 

She called me because I had done the conversion. I offered to help if she would bring it up to me. So this 50 ish year old lady and her 70 ish year old dad. Showed up to my house with a van FULL of misc interior parts. 

Long story short.......the fasted way to get here a functional van with the parts she and I had available was to assemble the GLS lower panels and the upper Poptop panels. 

Sold her my GLS middle seats/mounts, side panels, a tail light, and a bunch of misc stuff. Then the three of us spent 5 laughter filled hours assembling the van for her.  

At 1 am she finally had a 95% complete van ready to drive her family on a trip next week. (No carpet yet as she will need the GLS carpet and we didn't have the time to disassemble my van to get mine out) 

In the execution of the deal I ended up with a few parts she couldn't/didn't want to use but I needed. Picked up all sorts of little things like a rear florescent light, complete weekender floor that I can cover in vinyl, etc, etc. Once I have the weekender floor installed I told her she could have my GLS carpet. 










That was enough to kickstart some of my interest to work on my own van again today. Which was perfect timing as one of the two back ordered seat swivels was on my porch. 

Figured having a little easy success is always a good motivator. So I installed the one seat swivel. Sorry for the bad picture. It's on on jack stands in the back of the garage. 










After the seat install I got more ambitious but was running out of time. I got to take the oil pump off and checked just two of the rod bearings with plastigauge. 

The crank surface isn't "perfect" but it also doesn't have groves you can feel so not really sure what to do with it. 

Here was the measurement of the two rods I checked. Looks to be about 0.66mm out of spec. 










The bearings themselves look pretty bad. So the question is.....what are the odds I can install just new bearings and get some reasonable life out of the motor?:screwy:


----------



## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Okay, here is my thinking this morning. 

Let me know what you guys think. 

I've had a hard time finding a reasonably priced replacement motor or diesel for a swap at this point. New long blocks are insanely priced at around $6k 

This motor was horribly sludged with varnish when I got it. I'm sure that is what caused the timing gear issue. That combined with running a bunch of SeaFoam through it to clean up the varnish may have cleaned enough varnish off the rest of the parts to "free them up" allowing the bearings to rattle or wear a bit more with the sludge/varnish and SeaFoam floating around in it. 

With the too and bottom of the motor open I can flush the rest of the system out pretty well to get the microscopic flakes of metal out. (Almost impossible to see with the naked eye they were so small) Most was in the pan anyway. 

I'll put a micrometer on the rod journals to make sure they are round and within a usable spec. Then polish them. 

Then install the appropriate sized bearings. May just change out the cam bearings too since I have access to them. We will have to see what they look like. 

This is all assuming the main journal bearings are still "good enough" I will at least remove the caps I have access to and look. 

This *should* make for a fairly reliable motor again if all the measurement work out. 

I'll also clean up the pan and clean out the oil pump. 

Then.....I can start collecting parts for a a diesel swap a bit more slowly. 

Thoughts?


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

For someone like me that doesn't go hacking vehicle roofs and can't even get a timing belt synched right :laugh: I'd be hiring a professional for something like this. 

But being that you seem brave and comfortable enough to do this sort of stuff yourself, it sounds like a good plan to me. 

BTW just curious when you say install the correct size bearings, I take it you mean oversized rod bearings that are used in engine rebuilds?


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## jets (Oct 12, 2005)

Xtremjeepn said:


> I'll put a micrometer on the rod journals to make sure they are round and within a usable spec. Then polish them.
> Then install the appropriate sized bearings.


 Yes, that's what I would be doing, particularly when you have a possible diesel swap in mind for the future. If you did a full recondition on that engine, apart from the extra work & cost you would need to run it for a few years to get some value out of it.


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## jets (Oct 12, 2005)

gti_matt said:


> But being that you seem brave and comfortable enough to do this sort of stuff yourself, it sounds like a good plan to me.


 I am sure Cole is more than capable enough to do what he is planning.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Good news...I've definitively found the bad news:screwy: (and also confirmed that I have way too much practice at this sort of thing and that my initial diagnosis was correct based on what I heard when it happened:laugh 


It always bugs me when you can't find that "ah ha moment" of diagnosis. Well, I finally pulled the rest of the rod caps off it measure the journals and found the #3 rod had spun its bearings. 










The unfortunate thing is that this journal has some slight ridges when felt with your finger nail. They seem to be from the bearing material though. So going to try to polish this one journal up first and check it again to see if it smooths out. 

FWIW, all the journals measures the same at just about 0.007 under the factory new spec, including the #3 with the spun bearing.


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## [email protected] (Apr 2, 1999)

Well the good thing is that you have now got it narrowed down and have a clear path to getting it handled. The VR6 motors are surprisingly robust and the parts are pretty plentiful and cheap compared to say, Porsche parts (for the most part). 

Oh and I downloaded your mobile app and bought an issue and look forward to many more. :thumbup:


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

[email protected] said:


> Oh and I downloaded your mobile app and bought an issue and look forward to many more. :thumbup:


 
:thumbup: Thank you:laugh: Always good to hear! 

After reading a billion threads on the Internet about it! Which are all true of course. I dove in with a shoelace and some sand paper. 

After a quite a bit of sanding at various grades of fine paper, all of the stuff I was feeling yesterday with my fingernail is gone. Apparently all bearing material stuck to the crank. There is some visual discoloration in spots that "looks" like groves but can't be felt at all with a finger or fingernail. That and the crank still measures in spec with the other rod journals at every single spot I can measure it. 

Starting to think with a bunch more polishing to a mirror shine that it might just work for awhile. These journals were all about .007 under spec so they will run barely loose with stock bearings in them. So the super tiny imperfections will also have room to move a bit. 

Hard to get a good picture under tha van with a phone. Most of what looks like its on the rod journal in the picture is a reflection. The other discoloration a on the journal can't be felt at all. Opinions?


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## jets (Oct 12, 2005)

It's good that you have found the source of the problem. Do you think that the cause is oil starvation to that journal by some form of blockage? Are you confident you can clean out all the oil passages with the crank in situ?


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## rensho (Jan 21, 2002)

Sucks to see the engine issue.

email me if you need any advice. I replaced my 02 motor with an engine from golf/jetta vr6 24v. I got a full vw rebuilt motor for $1300 when they blew them out.

Van has 35kmi with new motor on it now, in 4+ yrs.

rensho at geemail


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Well, I'll post a little update. 

I've been searching for a replacement engine but seem to keep missing out on the deals. No worries, I can wait. It can sit here in the garage like this for a bit. 










That doesn't mean progress on the van has stopped. I managed to get the second seat swivel in. What a difference this makes to the interior space!!!

Van is a bit dirty inside as I have been working on it. Also getting ready to replace the carpet with something different so stay tuned.


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## Lugboot (Sep 24, 2010)

This is incredible. I was just talking to another VW nut about doing this--installing the pop-top from a Weekender on our GLS.

Did your GLS have a sunroof?


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Lugboot said:


> This is incredible. I was just talking to another VW nut about doing this--installing the pop-top from a Weekender on our GLS.
> 
> Did your GLS have a sunroof?



No sunroof. I think that would make it a trickier swap, but not impossible. 

I'm considering adding one it the Poptop though.


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## Lugboot (Sep 24, 2010)

When I saw the shape of the section you cut out of the roof, I wondered. Ours has the sunroof in it. I think I'll tackle the MV rear seat/bed swap first and then mull it over for awhile...

You're doing a tremendous job--great work!


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Lugboot said:


> You're doing a tremendous job--great work!


Thanks. Now of I could just find a motor for it

It would probably be possible to cut the roof a touch differently to leave the front section of the sunroof and inner trim piece in tact. Then just move or redesign the latch. Maybe use the sunroof hole at the access to the bed area when installed. (Cause the bed would come all the way up to the old trim panel.)


Hmmm...


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Having a hell of a time tracking down a good 24v replacement. For the money these people want for a used motor I'm starting to have other evil thoughts again.


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## VW_Enthu1 (Oct 23, 2004)

This type of problem was one of my greatest fears with our van once I had it a few years - engine problems as the miles grew that would disable the vehicle and/or cost me a fortune to fix. The risk - along with the fact that nobody wanted to touch these things in the SE - just got too great and we had to bail on it. It was a disaster waiting to happen. 

I think it goes without saying (I'll say it anyway) that my concerns don't really apply to you given your obvious skill level. Anyone who dismantles the front of an EV - including the front of the engine - in a few minutes...in their garage...is on a different plane of existence than me. D*mn.

I'm dyin to see how you handle this...I'm sure it'll be a creative solution. My kids are even asking me how it's going cause they are following your plight. 

Good luck. Something tells me....you won't need it.:beer:

(I also struggle with the idea of paying a fortune for a used 24v VR6. I didn't really like these engines when they were new - why would I want to cough up a bundle for a used one? Ugh.)


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Having a hell of a time tracking down a good 24v replacement. For the money these people want for a used motor I'm starting to have other evil thoughts again.


What prices are you seeing that you feel are so high?

With these automatic transmissions being notorious for not being able to handle the VR6 power
what would your plan be with an alternative power plant?


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

EV99 said:


> What prices are you seeing that you feel are so high?
> 
> With these automatic transmissions being notorious for not being able to handle the VR6 power
> what would your plan be with an alternative power plant?


Used motors with no guarantees for $3k or reconditioned long blocks for $6500. 

LOTS of variations in price and just very few available at this moment.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Ordered this today!


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## Lugboot (Sep 24, 2010)

I have never looked my engine long enough or closely enough to be able to identify it sitting on a concrete floor--is that a new VR6 for your van?


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

Six cylinders in a row (inline) but kinda wide block and head (vee) and timing components not on the side where the crank pulley goes and all in a VAG box, I'm gonna say yes it's a VR. 

As to the displacement (2.8 vs 3.2 vs 3.6...?)....hmmmm dunno.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I searched every corner of earth for one of these in just about any running condition.m 

A rebuilt longblock for most sites STARTS at $6500:screwy: 

I found a few 3.2L VR6s from Touraregs, Cayennes and R32 but the CHEAPEST one I could find (from someone that actually picks up their phone and was willing to ship it to me) was over $3k. :screwy: these were for used take outs with ZERO indicating of how well, or if, they run! :screwy: 

I finally decided I wasn't going to drop $3k+ just to see if it would fit.  If I could have been a touch more certain of found one for sub $1000 I would have given it a try:thumbup: 

I was at the point where I was willing to throw any known good short block in there, I just couldn't grind one!!!!  I searched ALL of Criagslist nationally DAILY, along with kijiji, ebay, car-part.com, parts.com, etc, etc etc. Even searched all the "pull-n-save" junkyards within a days drive of here, NOTHING!!! 

12v are EVERYWHERE!!! 24v are MUCH harder to find. The few reasonable deals that were out there were gone before I got to them:facepalm: 

Then I stumbled on this factory engine. Took a week of negotiation Audi finally got it for a great deal, but way more than I wanted to pay at $2,600 shipped! :sly: 

Hope it gets here soon! 

Once I have the other one out I may have the crank machined, new bearings and check/replace the rods on my own time. :thumbup: it already has new timing chains, etc


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## J_J_R (Jan 12, 2012)

Is it a BDF?


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

J_J_R said:


> Is it a BDF?


 Yep.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

New engine is supposed to be delivered tomorrow! Spent an hour taking some more of the van apart to get the old one out! 


Wouldn't be very interesting if I just kept posting the same angle of an engine torn apart. So here is a different view of it for a litte variety!:screwy:


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## kauboi (Nov 3, 2004)

Well, glad you found a motor! 
$2600 shipped doesn't seem too bad to me... 
Curious to see if the bdf bolts up, and or your mods to mate it to the trans. 
Do you think it will be possible to remove the a/c compressor and power steering without opening them up and holding them out of the way?


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

kauboi said:


> Well, glad you found a motor!
> $2600 shipped doesn't seem too bad to me...
> Curious to see if the bdf bolts up, and or your mods to mate it to the trans.
> Do you think it will be possible to remove the a/c compressor and power steering without opening them up and holding them out of the way?


 
I guess we will see.:laugh:


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## a1junkie (Apr 26, 2000)

Did you look at 1.8t, 2.0t or modern 2.5 i5 engines as conversions? I've been wondering how they would do for power and if they could be mated to the older i5's 5-speed transmission.


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

a1junkie said:


> Did you look at 1.8t, 2.0t or modern 2.5 i5 engines as conversions? I've been wondering how they would do for power and if they could be mated to the older i5's 5-speed transmission.


 None of those would mate to his current transmission. 

They would mate to the old I5 MT yes but those 02B transmissions from the 93s have a very low gearing ratio. 

The modern 2.5 engines do not have any compatible engine mount locations with the Eurovans.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

a1junkie said:


> Did you look at 1.8t, 2.0t or modern 2.5 i5 engines as conversions? I've been wondering how they would do for power and if they could be mated to the older i5's 5-speed transmission.


 
Looked pretty deeply into all of the above. 

Stock for stock the VR6 puts out more power at usable RPM for around town and camping. 

All of the turbo motors are easily modable for big power under boost. Some of which would be very nice climbing high mountain passes here. 

They would also bolt up to the 93-95 five speed. 
While it's a desirable transmission, its also rare. Not impossible to find but harder than the auto. 

The 1.8t/2.0t looked like it would be horribly underpowered where the van needs the power the most. (low rpm) 

The 2.5TDI could be cool..... But..... I don't want to be roaming around the back roads of the USA with an engine I can't readily buy parts for.


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> The 2.5TDI could be cool..... But..... I don't want to be roaming around the back roads of the USA with an engine I can't readily buy parts for.


 I believe he was talking about the current 2.5 gas I5 engines? 

I agree on the 2.5TDI w/out parts available, hence why I am going I4 TDI. 

But as I mentioned even if they will bolt up to the I5 MT that transmission's gearing ratios would be far from ideal.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Had to go buy another engine stand this morning. I think this is my 4th one. I should probably just quit selling them. Also had to move a bunch of stuff around to use the hoist. 

Glad I did a little research online this morning about how to mount a VR6 on the engine stand. Apparently with the block mounted to the traditional holes its REALLY easy to crack a water jacket. Using the plate makes like this works great. Hard as hell to spin, so I mounted it at a angle where I will be able to reach the bottom and top of the motor pretty easily. 

I will need to change out the valve cover, oil pan and oil pick up tube to make the Jetta long block work in my Eurovan. 

Since this is a brand new engine I'm going to install as much brand new stuff on it as reasonably possible. (Waterpump, crack pipe, etc, etc) 

Once it is all ready to go in then I can swap the other motor onto the stand and look at rebuilding it. 

......and since I had to move my bike out and the weather is nice........this project is on hold until I get back from a ride!!!!


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## a1junkie (Apr 26, 2000)

Do upgraded water pumps and aftermarket crack pipes apply to the 24v engines? I did both on my 12v when my pump pooped itself just outside my AAA-Plus tow range.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

a1junkie said:


> Do upgraded water pumps and aftermarket crack pipes apply to the 24v engines? I did both on my 12v when my pump pooped itself just outside my AAA-Plus tow range.


 No idea. Researching that stuff now. 

Want tot do a new waterpump, crack pipe etc. Maybe even a few other things while I'm in there


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## meinvwauto (Jan 3, 2013)

Xtremjeepn said:


> No idea. Researching that stuff now.
> 
> Want tot do a new waterpump, crack pipe etc. Maybe even a few other things while I'm in there


 Read my post in your ADVrider.... 

cheers.....


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

meinvwauto said:


> Read my post in your ADVrider....
> 
> cheers.....


 Yep. Saw it. Thanks.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Had a few hours to kill today while it was nice out! 










Will be media blasting and painting many bits before they go in. Also need to pick up many shiny new parts for this!


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## linkindinkin (Nov 5, 2009)

Wow, your new engine looks, well, incredible. Nice score. Did you paint your trans? Do all the mounting features line up to the trans? Did you have to swap oil pump pick up and oil pan due the mount angle in the EV? 
I follow your other thread on the Samba as well, I spend time in both places, I have a 99 EV and a 68 westfalia as well. Not as much EV traffic in that forum tho. 

Good luck.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

linkindinkin said:


> Wow, your new engine looks, well, incredible. Nice score.
> 
> Did you paint your trans?
> _*Nope. Just shiny dirt right now. Wasn't ambitious enough to pull the trans again. That would have required taking apart the drivers side suspension again so I left it alone.
> ...


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Thought I would give you guys a bit of an update to satisfy your Monday morning living vicariously through the web needs! 

I've spent the last few days running around having parts tested or replaced. Some of the parts that were good just got cleaned up with air tools and abrasives (I just cussed at them until the rust was gone:screwy, then painted. 

I had to rebuild the new oil pump with the old pick up tube. This meant doing a LOT of cleaning of the old tube to make sure it was totally clean. 

Also have to reuse the Eurovan specific oil pan and valve cover. So those needed lots of cleaning to make them worthy of the new engine. 

I've replaced lots of old corroded factory nuts and bolts with new factory hardware!


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Think I may actually make some notable progress today. It's been tricky to sneak out in the garage with a 13 week old daughter around. :lol3 


Got a bit done yesterday. It's just been lots of cleaning, and not the type of cleaning that makes you go "wow, look at how clean that is". More the type of cleaning that makes you go "ugh, finally its clean enough to not cause problems!":lol3 


Here is an example of what I've been dealing with. There are a few things that must be swapped from the AXK Eurovan motor to the BDF Jetta motor. Things like the valve cover, oil pan, oil pickup tube, oil cooler, oil filler neck (start to see a pattern here?) I have to swap over a bunch of oil system parts from a motor that had an oil system problem. So everything must be cleaned to a fault to make sure to not contaminate the new engine. 

Here is the underside of the valve covers. Note that the one on top has already been media blasted once and I've spent about 2 hours with various degreasers, even soaked it over night and lots of scrubbing. 

I finally got it clean enough to see that the black plastic end piece was removable. (I wish I would have taken a picture of this when I started, you couldn't tell the black plastic end piece was a different material than the Aluminum cover. How crazy is that? 

When I removed the cover I discovered a whole new valley of crud. Took quite awhile to get it clean enough to install. 

The interior angles, hose mounts and oil filler mount are totally different on the Eurovan valve cover. Which is why it had to be reused. 



















There was no way that nasty old cover was going over this new valve train! 











Once the parts were finally clean enough (no picture), I filled the motor with new Mobile One oil and pulled the oil pump drive and primed the pump with an air ratchet. Normally I'd do this a bit later in the process but the oil pump drive lives under one of the headers. Which means to access it you must have the intake and header off. 











Then the valve cover was finally ready to go back on with as many new parts off the new cover as possible. (And a bunch of other stuff magically hopped onto the engine too)


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## meinvwauto (Jan 3, 2013)

I am coming over and we do mine... . Am enjoying your build very much! 

:sly:...I see the "crack pipe"; you reusing it... ;  

cheers...


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

meinvwauto said:


> I am coming over and we do mine... . Am enjoying your build very much!
> 
> :sly:...I see the "crack pipe"; you reusing it... ;
> 
> cheers...


 I've been torn on which crack pipe to use. :screwy: I fully understand the issue as I have the plastic coolant pipes leave me stranded about 100 miles from home with my daily driver. :screwy: 

I really just kinda got ahead of myself on the install and stuck the old one in place so that I could mount the oil cooler and seal up the oil system. :wave:


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> I've been torn on which crack pipe to use. :screwy: I fully understand the issue as I have the plastic coolant pipes leave me stranded about 100 miles from home with my daily driver. :screwy:


 Well at least get a NEW plastic one at the least....


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

EV99 said:


> Well at least get a NEW plastic one at the least....


 
Yeah, there I some of those local tha to may go get right now for $32. Obviously the stock one lasted 155k so a new one should hopefully do just as well. 

It's really just been a matter of having my hands full with a baby that prevented me from ordering one quick enough to get it here. I was also debating the value of a $100 (shipped) one vs the stock replacement. 

Sometimes aftermarket "race" type parts are great but sometimes they are just more expensive and don't interface with the stock stuff as well.


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Yeah, there I some of those local tha to may go get right now for $32. Obviously the stock one lasted 155k so a new one should hopefully do just as well.
> 
> It's really just been a matter of having my hands full with a baby that prevented me from ordering one quick enough to get it here. I was also debating the value of a $100 (shipped) one vs the stock replacement.
> 
> Sometimes aftermarket "race" type parts are great but sometimes they are just more expensive and don't interface with the stock stuff as well.


 Yeah the crack pipe is notorious but they do last pretty well, also something that many people overlook is that the suppliers/manufacturers of these parts are many times more aware of the issues than the consumer, and in fact have improved the "new generation" parts over the original ones that were used a decade or more ago. 

But that doesn't hinder the aftermarket from promoting their improved versions  and surely a metal one is safer on here than the plastic either way naturally! 

I guess the other side of the coin is I am sure you can find used plastic ones for sale on eBay


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

Xtremjeepn said:


> I filled the motor with new Mobile One oil


 Can't stress this enough...synthetic FTW! 

Despite neglect and whatnot on the part of the PO with my '93, he claimed he did use synthetic and so did I. After the timing belt breakage when I had to get a valve job, when I removed the valve cover of my 2.5L it was spotless inside. Not a gram of goo or buildup anywhere. Just clean oil.:thumbup: 

Granted that's an old-school simpler VW/Audi motor and not something like an OBD2-variable-valve-timing-4-valve-per-cylinder thing, but it seems to be that synth should be a no brainer for most of today's complicated motors.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

gti_matt said:


> Can't stress this enough...synthetic FTW!
> 
> Despite neglect and whatnot on the part of the PO with my '93, he claimed he did use synthetic and so did I. After the timing belt breakage when I had to get a valve job, when I removed the valve cover of my 2.5L it was spotless inside. Not a gram of goo or buildup anywhere. Just clean oil.:thumbup:
> 
> Granted that's an old-school simpler VW/Audi motor and not something like an OBD2-variable-valve-timing-4-valve-per-cylinder thing, but it seems to be that synth should be a no brainer for most of today's complicated motors.


 
The PO of this van had been paying for frequent Mobile 1 oil changes.  Receipts to prove it. But the condition of the inside of this engine says something different:thumbdown: 

We have talked about it quite a bit as the guy is a bit of a Motörhead. We have come to the conclusion that the shop he was paying to change his oil was somehow taking him for a ride. Either not using the oil he thought he was paying for or simply not changing the oil like they said they were doing:thumbdown: 


Took a parts run to get a new crack pipe so that I can make more progress today. Funny, the VW dealer was only 15 miles away but I seemed to have racked up over 60 to get there and back


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## rensho (Jan 21, 2002)

Looking good Cole. Don't break the speedo drive swinging that engine and tranny in place, and watch the intake/exhaust actuator cables, they have identical plugs on them. 

My screen filter area under the valve cover was also nasty, but not that bad. 

The swap is really not that bad, once you have the engine and have the front end off. 

Just for all the folks thinking/needing to do this: 

valve cover, oil spout, oil pickup, oil pan, intake are all from your AXK engine. Everything else is from the BDF. 

When you guys buy replacement parts later, remember you have a BDF, as some things like water pumps are different from AXK.


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## meinvwauto (Jan 3, 2013)

I agree with others and you that the plastic "crack pipe" will do just fine. It's a high temp/impact plasticized pipe. Your's lasted 155K and mine is at 120K..looks solid. Just so happen to get into replacing a lot of aged parts and while getting through this hose jungle why not eliminate one "possible !!??" suspect with a better solution:facepalm: !! 

Actually I have yet to hear from anyone whose "crack pipe" left them stranded....was it just a "guess" by those promotionals? 
What about the thermostat housings/thermostat cover...similar plastic as the pipe. There's no alternative metal housing for these, right. Oh, my, be careful and torque them to specs otherwise..."c-r-a-c-k". :banghead:. 

Am enjoying your build progress.... 

cheers...


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Then over the next 4 hours this happened! 












When I did the timing chains I brand new O-ring for the thermostat housing. It's expanded to the point it doesn't fit. So that stopped me for the day. Once I get a new one there really isn't much left to do. 

Need to reassemble the CV shaft and install the front of the van! 

I also took the time today to add a nifty retrofit from my 1993 parts van!! Can any of you Eurovan experts identify it in the picture above?


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

Xtremjeepn said:


> I also took the time today to add a nifty retrofit from my 1993 parts van!! Can any of you Eurovan experts identify it in the picture above?


 Transmission dipstick. 

What do I win?


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

gti_matt said:


> Transmission dipstick.
> 
> What do I win?


 Yep! I kept it from the parts van but kinda forgot I had it when I did the chains and trans cooler last time. 

:thumbup:


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Yep! I kept it from the parts van but kinda forgot I had it when I did the chains and trans cooler last time.
> 
> :thumbup:


 Good call on that one.


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## VW_Enthu1 (Oct 23, 2004)

After following this insanely cool thread ritually every day (along with my kids), I will - from this point forward until the end of my existence on this planet - be forced to deal with my newly discovered feelings of inadequacy... 

There is counseling available for this...right? 

opcorn:


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## bigfatgeek (Feb 5, 2005)

Very, very cool thread. Thanks for taking the time to photograph and document the task at hand. :beer::beer:


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Thanks guys:thumbup: 

Glad you are enjoying my pain :screwy: 

It should get more interesting once its running and I can get to the more exciting and fun work 

Things like, flooring, cabinets, refrigeration, solar, interior trim, etc, etc, etc


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

It runs!....now I'm off to have a margarita before assembling the rest of it!


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Well, I got distracted and did lower ball joints while I was in there today. But I did finally put it all together and take a drive. Runs SMOOTH. Gotta love the smell of assembly lube in a new engine! 

Only drove for about a mile and only up to about 45 just to make sure it all worked. (And it was starting to rain)

Now it needs a bath and the fun parts can begin!


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## VW_Enthu1 (Oct 23, 2004)

Nice work. Congrats on bringing him back to life! :beer:


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## rensho (Jan 21, 2002)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Well, I got distracted and did lower ball joints while I was in there today. But I did finally put it all together and take a drive. Runs SMOOTH. Gotta love the smell of assembly lube in a new engine!
> 
> Only drove for about a mile and only up to about 45 just to make sure it all worked. (And it was starting to rain)
> 
> Now it needs a bath and the fun parts can begin!


Nice job, and the van looks badass. :beer:


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

Congrats getting it back on the road!:thumbup:


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## linkindinkin (Nov 5, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:



> Once the parts were finally clean enough (no picture), I filled the motor with new Mobile One oil and pulled the oil pump drive and primed the pump with an air ratchet. Normally I'd do this a bit later in the process but the oil pump drive lives under one of the headers. Which means to access it you must have the intake and header off.


Explain how that works... you pulled the cover on the back of the motor and you then did "what" to prime the system? I have never looked under that little cover. I assume that is where the oil pump drive lives. 

The reason I ask, I have gotten my hands on a low mile AAA engine that has sat for a couple years, and I would like to do a compression test but would like to pump some fresh clean oil through the bearings before I go cranking it over. I want to verify good compression before I completely commit to an engine swap on my 99.

Thanks in advance. Van looks great by the way, great job!


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

linkindinkin said:


> Xtremjeepn said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


When you pull the cover off the back of the motor there is a gear sitting in there. Just pull it out, its only sitting on the shaft. Now you have access to the top of the oil pump shaft. Use a 6mm socket on a drill or air ratchet and pump away. :thumbup:


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I'd like some of your thoughts on this.

Part of my plan is to upgrade many of the interior materials. I've been thinking of using a Porsche or Audi Sport steering wheel for awhile now. 

One of my friends just upgraded his Porsche 993 steering wheel to a newer 3 spoke version and has his stock leather 4 spoke available, for purchase.

It's almost an exact replacement for the stock wheel. Significant upgraded feel with the leather, but only a small, stockish upgrade in the looks. 

What do you think? Too close to the stock look? Better to do something more obviously upgraded?


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## VW_Enthu1 (Oct 23, 2004)

While I am admittedly old(er) - 50 - I vote for subtle. I like upgraded...but not _obviously_ upgraded, yet classy. I like the Porsche wheel. Its obviously nicer looking...but not too loud.

Steering wheels are always tough. There is that very gray line you can't cross - that transition from cool to south Chicago chic'...


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## a1junkie (Apr 26, 2000)

Can you fit the VW airbag cover to the Porsche wheel? If so I'd go that route. I've been looking for a spare stock wheel to send out for custom leather covering, to make the grip bigger and feel better.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

a1junkie said:


> Can you fit the VW airbag cover to the Porsche wheel? If so I'd go that route. I've been looking for a spare stock wheel to send out for custom leather covering, to make the grip bigger and feel better.




No, and honestly that is one thing I will be happy to get rid of. No offense to anyone but I hate the VW logo on the wheel.

I test fit the wheel this morning. It could be made to work with a bit of fabrication.:screwy: I'll have to think about it a bit and decide if I want to mess with it or try a different route. It does feel MUCH better!!


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

No problems though with the airbag module, electrical connectors, etc.? Make sure you don't compromise your safety there.


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## Lithe (Apr 3, 2002)

Go for it, then detail the modifications you made so I can copy! 

Andy


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## RS transporter (Aug 10, 2007)

Thanks for the nice Eurovan AXK > BDF 24v VR6 engine swap thread, super helpful!

I have a rare 2002 T4 eurocamper (Winnebago Vista class C unit) with the AXK still running great at 107k.

My nod goes to the 993 steering wheel. I used to have my 968 Club Sport wheel on my '91 T3 Westfalia, then later backdated to a more year appropriate and tick larger diameter 944 steering wheel. I still own my 968 club sport wheel  Keep us posted on your 993 steering wheel upgrade and mods.

Cheers, Thompson


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

RS transporter said:


> I still own my 968 club sport wheel



I have a place for that :laugh:


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## rensho (Jan 21, 2002)

I've always wanted a smaller wheel for the EV. The steering is so overboosted, and the wheel is fairly large.
Any nice leather wheel would be a welcome.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Went to the "VW on the Green" event this Sunday to check out all the cool VW. Still trying to put some miles on the fresh motor.

We paid up to enter the show so that we could have the van close by for the baby. Have to say, having the van with the poptop, table, swivel seats is a nice place to hang out with the family on a nice day.

I was surprised how many people came over to talk about it. There were 4 T4 Eurovans there. Three 1993s, one was a Poptop, all were white.

Most of the Vanagons and Buses were awesome!!


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I don't know if anyone has noticed but this an has a subtle red and grey pinstripe down the side and around the grill(red is very noticable around the grill) to give it kind of a GTI flavor. 


All the old Westys buses had these wonderful funky plaids. So I was considering doing a red/black GTI plaid for the interior (bed mattresses, the curtains, seat inserts, door cards Poptop fabric?!!) that would match the black/red outside and tie the van to modern and vintage VW style.

Anyone know of a good source for the interlagos plaid or something very similar?


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## jets (Oct 12, 2005)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Have to say, having the van with the poptop, table, swivel seats is a nice place to hang out with the family on a nice day.
> I was surprised how many people came over to talk about it.


I have similar features in my camper & also enter my van in the local show, generally every year. Lots of interest is shown & I have met some interesting people. Quite a few are tired from walking around & readily accept the offer for a seat & a chat. I also get offers that if I ever consider selling give me a call on this number.


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## linkindinkin (Nov 5, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> the Vanagons and Buses were awesome!!


Looks like you were parked right next door to curtis... I follow his restorations on the samba, and his incredible attention to detail. Both busses look stunning! Someday the eurovan will get as much attention as the sage green 79 westy...


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Photo taken by my friend Max at the VW show. Pretty much describes the pack structure here;-)


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## RS transporter (Aug 10, 2007)

Xtremjeepn said:


> I have a place for that :laugh:


Nice, 951 my hands down fav combo Guards red and tan Sport Seats, yummy! I've been keeping track on this thread and noticed your photo you sneeked in. Yeah this wheel has been a keeper and has lots of history with me. It was the absolute LAST in stock at the old PCNA Reno warehouse way back when. MoF, a good ol buddy of mine Ben Howell (you may know) donated it to me. It's been on my '84 urquattro, several 944s, a Carrera _3.o_ and my T3. Cheers, Thompson


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

RS transporter said:


> Nice, 951 my hands down fav combo Guards red and tan Sport Seats, yummy! I've been keeping track on this thread and noticed your photo you sneeked in. Yeah this wheel has been a keeper and has lots of history with me. It was the absolute LAST in stock at the old PCNA Reno warehouse way back when. MoF, a good ol buddy of mine Ben Howell (you may know) donated it to me. It's been on my '84 urquattro, several 944s, a Carrera _3.o_ and my T3. Cheers, Thompson


Very cool!!:thumbup: I bought my 951 absolutely trashed! It came with a ghetto wood steering wheel. This car was intended to only be my race car so a good factory wheel wasn't needed. This picture is after much restoration work...after it surved track duty. I wasn't using on the track as much and wanted to drive it around. So we removed the cage and race seats and replaced them with the heated factory sport seats. The Momo wheel I found on craigslist. I want to replace it with a factory sport wheel. Its amazing how much better quality my factory 928S4 wheel feels over the Momo. 

....and since we are on the topic of steering wheels....

Since my friend John's Porsche 993 steering wheel has been sitting here I felt compelled to do something about the boring plasticy steering wheel. 

The 993 wheel felt MUCH better than the stock VW one but despite having the right splines the holes for the airbag wires and turn signal cancel were all wrong. Not impossible to make work but the 993 wheel just looked too similar and was too expensive to be worth modifying to work.

But.....now that I knew exactly what I was looking at I figured a Audi Sport wheel from a S4/S6 would work. The spines are wrong but conveniently VW/Audi made a factory spline adapter that can be found on MK3 Jettas/Golfs.

I found a deal on a 2001 Audi S4 wheel on craigslist for $50! Then immediately ran off to the pull-n-save to snatch an adapter.......which would be its own adventure!

For those of you with a short attention span.......oh squirrel!......I mean here is the cliff notes picture! The thick three spoke weighted sport wheel feels MUCH nicer to drive with!!! I had no idea a weighted wheel would make such a difference. I swear it handles better!












Now, for those of you with nothing better to do and want to know the silly tech and my follies at the junk yard, keep reading!

For quick reference this is the part I'm after. It's only $42 at the dealer. Figured it would be about $1 at the junk yard.










I read all these posts on various VW forums about how to get these off. Some said they could get it off with a screw driver....B.S!!

I went to the junk yard with a fairly well equipped bag of tools, including a bearing puller, gear puller etc. My bearing puller wouldn't grip onto the part, I even figured out that a wrench between the puller and the spine adapter would create the grip needed but the wrench would just grind into the soft metal adapter! Boo! I messed with the stupid thing on two cars for about 1.5 hours with no luck!! One of the cars someone else had obviously already tried to remove the spline adapter with no luck. They even tried drilling out the safety bolts to remove the whole column with no luck. I left the yard last night defeated by such a simple part. 

Ghetto fab trail fix attempt at its best. 










After reading the forums some more I came up with an idea........I returned to the junk yard today with 1 tool.....a BFH!!

Trip back to the junk yard......wasn't a bad deal for the aussie!












So I figured out from reading the forum that the steering column is collapsable and the spline adapter is sitting on top of the upper spring. Which lead me to my evil thoughts about how to get it off. I figured I'd try my evil plan on the first car where I had already destroyed the adapter. Take a massive swing at the steering shaft with the hammer and it collapses the column and the spine adapter jumps off like a grashopper. :laugh: I had so much fun with this method that I picked up three adapters in 3 minutes of work, SO MUCH FUN!!! :screwy: Hope nobody was in need of a good steering column.:sly:


The spine adapter is actually just a touch too long for use on the Eurovan shaft. So it must be trimmed by this much...










After doing the very precise measuring I went over to my high dollar CNC system and trimmed it down!










Perfect fit!










The airbag/horn plug is identical. So is the airbag unit installed in the airbag cover. Plugged right in and didn't throw any coded. However, something on the horn is contacting and causing the horn to stay on. Didn't have time to sort it out today but I'm sure its an easy fix. I think the wheel mounted at this angle allows the weight of the horn to activate itself. So a little trimming of the connectors should cure it. 










It's amazing how much of a difference this wheel makes in the overall feel of the van.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Finally! After all this work we got to do a first round test run of the van! Just to see how well it works as a camping tool!

The VR6 is doing well. It easily holds the 65mph speed limit on the steep high elevation climbs here in Colorado. (That is Loveland Ski Area in the distance)











Found a nice little spot on Dillion Reservior for the night!










A must have for camping with a 4 month old is a star generating night light turtle

Think before she gets older I should just make the whole top clear acrylic!










Popped the top, set up camp and enjoyed. Few bugs to work out and more mods ahead!


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## djnibler (Aug 5, 2005)

Looks like a great way to spend Memorial Day Weekend! Lookin good. Sometimes I really wish I had a pop top, and especially a later model van, but with all the time I've put into my '93, I have to stick with it. 

Been enjoying following your write-ups.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

djnibler said:


> Sometimes I really wish I had a pop top........


Well, that is simple enough:laugh:

Just cut along the dotted line:screwy:











I don't see a huge advantage to the later van that can't be worked around on a nice earlier van:thumbup:


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## djnibler (Aug 5, 2005)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Well, that is simple enough:laugh:
> 
> Just cut along the dotted line:screwy:
> 
> I don't see a huge advantage to the later van that can't be worked around on a nice earlier van:thumbup:


Hah, as old as my van is, I'm not afraid to cut it. I guess just finding the pop top stuff (affordably) would be the thing.

As for the differences between newer and older vans, I posted about that here, or on the EV_UPDATE yahoo group a while back and it seems like the consensus was that the later vans are quieter due to better sound deadening and of course the dash is a lot nicer. ABS brakes and OBDII as well of course. 

The real killer for the older vans is the accident factor. Every time I sink a bunch of time and money into my '93, I pretend that I don't know how much I'd get from insurance if someone were to T-bone me and insurance totaled the van out. It would probably only be like $3k. My van is also that ugly 90's aqua blue metallic color. 

I have all the stuff I need for a manual trans conversion, including a .658 5th gear set but I need to find the time to do it. 

Any advice on interior plastic trim panels (specifically the ones on A/B/C pillars)? All mine are gummy and cracked. I pulled one of them off and repaired it by overlaying it with some fiberglass then spray painting it grey. It actually turned out really nice but the problem is that the plastic is so brittle, the ridges on the back that the clips attach to often break. When that happens, it's extremely difficult to rebuild them to the point where they will re-attach to the car properly.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

A couple of thoughts. 

1. The prices I've seen Poptops sell for seems to be 1.5-3x that of a hard top. :screwy: My conversion was essentially free after I sold the parts off the donor van. 

2. Insure it as a custom and it will cost less for more coverage 

3. Look at the VWT4Forum.co.uk for ideas on wrapping the trim (or bare pillars) with fabric. These guys all seem to do an awesome job at it for cheap. 

4. A few bucks in sound deadening and insulation would make it feel way more modern. 

5.converting to the long nose sheet metal would be pretty simple:what:

6. I have no good ideas how to make the sea foam green look any cooler!:wave: MAACO?


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## djnibler (Aug 5, 2005)

Cool, thanks for the ideas!!


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

My '93 is developing the sticky interior plastic too.

Re: noise, I believe Xtremejeepn said that his van contained no more sound deadening inside than the '93 donor van, so I think the noise is primarily the VR6 being a quieter motor and also probably revs less than the I-5 (or at least less than a I-5 MT version which does have rather short gearing).

That blue is Jamaica Blue. I kinda like it OK but yeah it's a bit 90s. MVs were also available in Caribbean Teal back then which I like to think of as "Gumby Green" which I like actually because it's very unique.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Stumbled on a craigslist deal today. Guy had a brand new in the package set of 60" Yakima rack tracks for $70. These are normally about $130 before tax or shipping! They almost never come up for sale used since people leave them attached to toppers, etc when they sell their cars. (Would you take the time to fill the holes?)

I have a ton of extra Yakima rack stuff laying here, including a brand new set of mounts for these tracks I picked up a few months ago for about $20.

This should make for a nice rack set up. I have a few bike racks, a cargo box and may still have room to mount a solar panel.

I simply layed the tracks next to the hinge inside the roof and drilled the holes. Figuring that mounting it as close to the hinge as possible would give it the most support with the roof up, and down. I also mounted them as far back as reasonably possible. No sense in putting them all the way back since you would never put a cross bar at the back edge of the roof for a box/ski rack/etc.

Between neighborly interruptions and trips to the hardware store for longer bolts I really only got most of one rail sealed up and installed:laugh:


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## a1junkie (Apr 26, 2000)

I just LOVE watching this project progress! Thanks for the updates!


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Had to run some errands today, but had some time to kill so stopped at the Starbucks in Cherry Creek North(Because Aviano Coffee is MIA).

It was the usual mob scene!










Fortunately, I brought my own private patio area complete with table! (This van thing is slick)










Also comes with its own(semi) private changing table! 












....and it was kind enough to rain on us for a bit so that I can test all those holes I drilled in the top last night......so far no leaks! The sound of the rain on the roof was also great for putting Elise to sleep!


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Finished the basic rack install. Tossed one bike carrier on it to make sure it works. Have 4 bike carriers, cargo box and ski/snowboard racks galore! Fully adjustable on the tracks and room to mount more cross bars if needed. So there are plenty of ways this rack is going to make the van more useful......though it does require a step stool to use :lol3


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## bigfatgeek (Feb 5, 2005)

Nice, I love this thread, thanks for continuing to post. :beer:

I have 78" wide Yakima crossbars on my hardtop MV. The bike mount on the driver's side is outside of the towers - and being 6'1", I can get the bike on w/o a step stool (also helps that it's a fork clamp mount). A Rocket Box goes on the passenger side during road trips - also *barely* reachable by this lanky dude.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I'm 6'2". I think the extra couple of inches of Poptop put it just out of reach:screwy:. I've got a little step ladder that folds flat and slides under the seat fine. I had to use it on my Jeeps running 37" tires to get stuff on the rack too!


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Remember that class 2 hitch I took off the parts van and media blasted? Of course you do! 

Well, I painted it today and posted to Craigslist to see if I could raise a little money towards a class three hitch. If I don't get it sold in a few days I'll probably just install it.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Wheel thoughts?

Since a screw in the tire the other day (and a rusted out spare rim) I've been working on what to do with the tires. I only have 3 good ones and a mismatched 11 year old spare. All 226/60/16.

Option 1 is to keep the stock 16s and run a 215/70/16 BFG A/T. Basically the largest size known to fit without issues, cutting or CV angle issues. Requires a little work to lift the van about 2" but no biggy. The issue I have with this is that at the moment I'm going to leave the van 2wd with the autobox. The auto doesn't have a very low 1st gear and kinda stuggles off the line but does great at freeway speed. Larger heavier tires would make this worse. 

Option 2, which is the most common route with these vans is to lower/leave stock, and run a larger wheel and more performance oriented tire to improve handling. Van would still work great for most camping off "dirt" roads. 

Option 3 is a hybrid option of running a larger wheel for handling but also running the largest tire I can for ground clearance. The only issue is that there are very ew A/T tire options that fit in 17/18" wheel sizes. 

Along those lines I snagged a set of S4 Avus wheels today for a song. A bit rashed but straight (17") Not sure if I will use them or just refinish them and sell them.

This is the 3rd set of these wheels I've owned with my S4 and S6. Very durable factory wheel! Also easy to refinish.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Okay, now lets get to the idiots at the autoparts store that tested the Alternator and told me it was good, but is only putting out 11.5v! 

I figured since it tested good I could save the $200 for a new one! Of course this would have been much easier to do while it was already out! Ugh.....which brings us to the real "tech"! 

Let talk "Amante Picante" tech. This is what you do when you're done screwing with the Eurovan for the day. 

Here is what you will need. 

-couple of fresh limes
-some good silver Tequila
-cucumber
-cilantro
-organic agave nectar 
-jalapeño Tabasco 
-mudler
-shaker 
-ice
-margarita glass! 











Cut a few slices of cucumber and a few sprigs of cilantro! Put them in the shaker and muddle the hell out of them! 










Then squeeze in a couple of fresh limes!....all of them....man up.....squeeze harder! 

Half a shot of agave nectar! (Don't want this too sweet)

Two shots of Good silver tequila! 

Put the lid on and shake it all up! 

Pour over a full glass of ice! Couple of dashes of jalapeño Tabasco and enjoy!










This certainly isn't going to cure the alternator, tire, or trailer hitch issue. But it is going to taste damn good while I figure out what the next step is! It might even stimulate a few wild ideas!


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## Lithe (Apr 3, 2002)

My van left my family stranded in Mississippi last summer for 3 days because the alternator "died" on me. None of the FLAPS in town could even test my alternator because the "lost" the adapter the test it... and none had a 150 amp replacement. 

Long story short: most of the positive and ground connections were rather corroded, after a very thorough cleaning it started and ran great all the way to Florida and back home to Colorado again! I did order a new brush set from Europarts and swapped them out in the parking lot of the hotel in Florida! No problems since then.

Hope this helps out. When I took off the back cover and inspected the brushes it was obvious they were nearing the end of their life, so it was good to replace them while I had it out of the van.

Cheers!!

Andy


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Thanks Andy, that does help.

Since I just did the factory crate engine I did clean all the connections to everything. I've honestly never put a set of brushes in an alternator. A set of brushes and a new regulator would probably fix this up for much less than a new alternator:sly:


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## Lithe (Apr 3, 2002)

My van is a 1999 so I wanted to upgrade to 16" wheels. I found a set at the U Pull and Pay yard and put 225\60r16 tires on, what a great difference it made. I like the look of the Audi "wineglass" wheels on the van. I have not seen any other Eurovans with this wheel either. I have the van at stock suspension settings, but hope to lower it in the future.

I should have taken the time to refinish the wheels, they are rather beat up from curb rash, but from 10 feet they look great!

Cole - If I was you I would go ahead and refinish the Avus wheels and slap them on, I love those wheels.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

It's funny, we had a 1999 A6 Avant that came with those wheels stock. I couldn't wait to get them off the car and they were gone within days for a set of 18s. But on the van they look really good!


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## djnibler (Aug 5, 2005)

I vote for the S4 wheels 

Have you researched to see if you can find tires that will work and have an XL load rating? The choices, even with a stock 16" rim, for an XL rated tire in that size are very limited. I don't even think TireRack carries anything that will work.

I've been looking for some late model stock EV wheels to put on my '93 but lack of tire choice has held me back. Much more choices for the 15" wheels.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

djnibler said:


> I vote for the S4 wheels
> 
> Have you researched to see if you can find tires that will work and have an XL load rating? The choices, even with a stock 16" rim, for an XL rated tire in that size are very limited. I don't even think TireRack carries anything that will work.
> 
> I've been looking for some late model stock EV wheels to put on my '93 but lack of tire choice has held me back. Much more choices for the 15" wheels.



There are tires available with "enough" load capacity but not specifically XL. That is kinda the trick. Have to look at every tire on its own merits. 

Unfortunately there aren't really any "all terrain" type tires that work once you step up to 17/18. The main goal there is just a more durable tire. Still thinking about it.


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## djnibler (Aug 5, 2005)

Xtremjeepn said:


> There are tires available with "enough" load capacity but not specifically XL. That is kinda the trick. Have to look at every tire on its own merits.


Interesting, I never thought to do that... alway assumed I HAD to go XL but what you say makes sense. 

If it helps, I have heard that Nokian makes a good 16" tire that rates for the EV.... maybe they do a 17 as well?


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## Lithe (Apr 3, 2002)

I have been using Michelins with a 98 load rating front and 97 rear. I bought the tires used and have not been too disappointed... they are kind of noisey, but for the price I can overlook that. I have driven on them for the past 2 years and they work fine. I don't load up my van to full capacity and they are working just fine for a daily driver.

I plan on buying Nokian's Entyres for the next set. They have a 102 H rating and the Eurovan guys give them positive reviews.

Cheers!

Andy:beer:


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## Founderct (Feb 11, 2011)

*EV Tires*

Vredstein also makes a tire that is the correct size and load rating $109 each at http://www.vulcantire.com/tire_detail/quatrac3_s.htm_10556.


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## meinvwauto (Jan 3, 2013)

Lithe said:


> I have been using Michelins with a 98 load rating front and 97 rear. I bought the tires used and have not been too disappointed... they are kind of noisey, but for the price I can overlook that. I have driven on them for the past 2 years and they work fine. I don't load up my van to full capacity and they are working just fine for a daily driver.
> 
> I plan on buying Nokian's Entyres for the next set. They have a 102 H rating and the Eurovan guys give them positive reviews.
> 
> ...


Have the Nokian enTYRE-225/60/16 102XL on my 2002 EVC for a year now. Great tire so far. Although they're a Finnish tire maker. Mine were made in Russia. 

cheers...


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

FWIW on my 2000 MVnoWK I ran 245-45-17 Falkens with a 99 load rating and had no problems. My '93 GL only calls for 98s.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Well, I got tired of waiting so I mounted up the class 2 hitch I took off the parts van. Media blasted and painted with caliper paint since its designed to put up with the elements.. 

I'd like to have a class three with a 2" receiver but I'll take the free hitch first since I will probably never tow it's 3500lb limit anyway.


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## bigfatgeek (Feb 5, 2005)

If anything, the receiver hitch is great for bike racks or cargo trays. That's all I've ever slid into my 2" receiver.


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## a1junkie (Apr 26, 2000)

A Class 3 receiver is nice for a scooter/dirt-bike carrier.


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

Xtremjeepn said:


>


 Is it just the pic and a reflection or is the bottom edge of your hatch all uneven and jagged?


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## rensho (Jan 21, 2002)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Well, I got tired of waiting so I mounted up the class 2 hitch I took off the parts van. Media blasted and painted with caliper paint since its designed to put up with the elements..
> 
> I'd like to have a class three with a 2" receiver but I'll take the free hitch first since I will probably never tow it's 3500lb limit anyway.


 The bolt pattern on the sideplates of that hitch looks like the one on my Curt 2" hitch. So if you find one, the center section should bolt on without installing the sides again. Hopefully. 

I run BBS rc 17s on mine with geolander ats 225/65/17s. 102H, the road noise is a little higher than i wanted, but not bad. The tires are very big in the wheel wells. 
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...wall=Blackwall&partnum=265HR7GEOATS&tab=Sizes


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

gti_matt said:


> Is it just the pic and a reflection or is the bottom edge of your hatch all uneven and jagged?


 Is the rubber step the PO put on that I haven't addressed yet.


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

Aaaah OK seeing it from above makes waaaay more sense now.


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## meinvwauto (Jan 3, 2013)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Is the rubber step the PO put on that I haven't addressed yet.


 EuroCampers has an equivalent one that you might like? See: 

http://www.eurocampers.com/1997-2003-EuroVan-Rear-Bumper-Protection-Strip--BLACK-_p_389.html 

cheers...


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

meinvwauto said:


> EuroCampers has an equivalent one that you might like? See:
> 
> http://www.eurocampers.com/1997-2003-EuroVan-Rear-Bumper-Protection-Strip--BLACK-_p_389.html
> 
> cheers...


 
Looks like a good, reasonable solution. 

I figured I would pull this off and see if it can just be reglued easy. If not I'll order one of those.


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Looks like a good, reasonable solution.
> 
> I figured I would pull this off and see if it can just be reglued easy. If not I'll order one of those.


 The Eurocampers one is pretty much like the same material that is the adhesive sticker between the windows on the B and C pillars. Yes it protects but if you're expecting a rubbery strip with thickness to it like the wrinkly one you have now, it ain't. Not sure that thickness is really needed though. 

Have you seen the Honda Pilot solution? I believe people have used a rear bumper protector from a 1st gen Pilot on the rear bumper of the Eurovan and fits great on 1997+ T4s. It normally snaps on to the bumper on a Pilot but people just cut the tabs off and use 2-sided tape or something to adhere it. 

Thread: 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ck-side-molding-and-tailgate-bumper-protector


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## VW_Enthu1 (Oct 23, 2004)

:beer: 

Forgot I had posted those pictures a loooong time ago. Definitely go with the Pilot solution. Easy, durable, cheap, and it looks perfect. All the others that were made for the EV didn't look that great...


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## rensho (Jan 21, 2002)

I bought a couple of these to try. Haven't installed yet, but they would work quite nicely. It is not too thick or too thin and the grip lugs are a good height. 

http://www.harborfreight.com/self-adhesive-rubber-safety-step-tread-98856.html


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Ugh.....battling another problem! Maybe you guys can help??! 


Here are the facts! 
I've got a 2002 t4 (duh) Eurovan (USA) 24v VR6 with a charging issue. 

Alternator has been tested twice, tests good, even under full load. Replaced the voltage regulator anyway for a small fortune, still doesn't charge. (Puts out no voltage, only the battery voltage shows up at the alternator) cleaned every ground and even added an extra long battery cable sized ground from the alternator bolt to one of the battery (-) grounds for good measure. Still doesn't charge. 
Belt is brand new and seems more than tight enough 

Seems like maybe the battery trigger wire (blue) isn't working?....but the battery light on the dash lights and the goes away normally at startup? 

My "power outlets" fuse blows instantly, so obviously this has a short somewhere.?!?!? Any chance the power outlet circuit is on the same one as the trigger for the alternator? Anyone have a schematic? Anyone know how the power outlets wiring is routed thought the van? Other places to look for a short? They seem unrelated, but I'm at a dead end here. 

Thanks!


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## djnibler (Aug 5, 2005)

Oh boy, these kinds of problems will drive a guy NUTS. Electrical gremlins are the worst. 

I have the Bentley manual for the EV so if someone doesn't beat me to it, when I get home from work I'll print the wiring diagram to file and send it to you. 

How does the auto parts place test the alternator? Do they actually take it off the vehicle and put it on a bench that spins it up?


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

djnibler said:


> Oh boy, these kinds of problems will drive a guy NUTS. Electrical gremlins are the worst.
> 
> I have the Bentley manual for the EV so if someone doesn't beat me to it, when I get home from work I'll print the wiring diagram to file and send it to you.
> 
> How does the auto parts place test the alternator? Do they actually take it off the vehicle and put it on a bench that spins it up?


 Thanks, that would be helpful. 

When I had the motor out I had the alternator off and tested on the bench at Advanced Auto. Tested good! No reason to order the $500 replacement. Then I discovered this problem while running the AC in slow traffic. Pulled the alternator back off and had it tested by an alternator shop, tested good, even under load. :screwy: 

Cleaned all the grounds again, added another huge ground wire and tested on the vehicle. It only shows battery voltage at the alternator(11.7v with all the AC, radio, etc on, should show 14.4v if charging) 

Took the alternator back off and took off the voltage regulator, it was kinda falling apart so I paid $100 for a new factory one hoping it had some random issue. Nope, didn't change a thing other than this one looks new. 

Belt is brand new and seems more than tight enough. 

Now I'm just baffled!


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## djnibler (Aug 5, 2005)

You can get a new alternator for $240 from www.europarts-sd.com, if it comes to that anyway...... 

Lets see what wiring diagram shows.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

djnibler said:


> You can get a new alternator for $240 from www.europarts-sd.com, if it comes to that anyway......
> 
> Lets see what wiring diagram shows.


 Unfortunately, as I've discovered there are actually 6 alternator versions and mine is the 150 amp with the D shaped plug (not the one with square plug) Which only seems to be available for about $500.....but mine tests perfect, twice!


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## djnibler (Aug 5, 2005)

Ok might have good news for you! 

Check out the wiring diagram below. There is a "Pre-Excited Generator Relay" that is needed and if yours was bad or had come unplugged from something, that might explain the issue you are having. The only issue is that the diagram says it is in "position 53" but the diagram of the fuse box (on the previous page) doesn't go any higher than position 17 :screwy: 

So, it might be easy enough to just look at the wire colors and number of pins in the wiring diagram, then look at all the relays on your relay black of the fuse box and see if you can figure it out that way. If you find the relay this way, the part number will be right on it but just looking at ETKA, it looks like this MIGHT be the part number for it: 7D0959263C.


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## meinvwauto (Jan 3, 2013)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Thanks, that would be helpful.
> 
> When I had the motor out I had the alternator off and tested on the bench at Advanced Auto. Tested good! No reason to order the $500 replacement. Then I discovered this problem while running the AC in slow traffic. Pulled the alternator back off and had it tested by an alternator shop, tested good, even under load. :screwy:
> 
> ...


 Cole...I did a test today with my EVC. It's been a hot and humid day here in southeastern NC. Decided to test my AC system before departing on vacation next week. AC works fine BUT..as you know that when one turns on the AC *both* fans automatically kick on like a banshee. No problem charging the batteries while cruising at 40-80 mph(12.6-13.7v) BUT coming into Town with stop and go traffic the Scangauge/Xgauge shows battery is being charged at a mere 11.7v(+-) while idling at the traffic light or slow going! SO it indeed charges very little while the A/C FANS are running: as soon as I shut off the AC...voltage goes back to 13.2-13.7 or for whatever is needed. I presume that the fans take a wallop of power. Cruisin' at higher rpm is all fine! 

cheers...


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Thanks guys, I'll look at it again tomorrow. 

A working alternator should show about 14v. Even moving slow with a heavy load on it. :laugh: 

I'm surprised to hear another EV exhibit a low output.  I can't seem to get any output from mine unless the engine is spinning 3k and then its still only about 13v. Which does fine at keeping the battery charged if you are driving somewhere where the rpm stays more above 3k than not (more freeway than city) The problem has now bitten me twice while driving around town where the speeds are sub 40mph and its HOT out so I've got the AC cranking to keep my family cool. It easily consumes all the battery power :facepalm:. 

Part of me would think that maybe this is just a problem from the type of driving, environment, etc........except......I have 5 other cars that this doesn't happen with Oddly most of my other cars have a voltage meter stock and they ALL show a steady 14v driving around town.:thumbup:...always.....


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## meinvwauto (Jan 3, 2013)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Thanks guys, I'll look at it again tomorrow.
> 
> A working alternator should show about 14v. Even moving slow with a heavy load on it. :laugh:
> 
> ...


 What you say here makes sense! Around Town sans AC..alternator charges around 13.2-13.7v; same as on faster roads. Have never seen 14v. If the battery is deeply discharged then I might see 14v. My battery is pretty new; it's a Napa Legend 75. 


Curious of what you will find and come up with.


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## rensho (Jan 21, 2002)

Cole, any chance your battery isolator is bad and it is taking a lot of juice, sending it to your 2nd battery? Do you have a 2nd battery under your driver seat? 

My EVWK only has a 120A alternator. I've never seen lower than 13.5 on my scanguage with the engine on and ac/lights on. I typically show 13.7. Battery is 2009.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

rensho said:


> Cole, any chance your battery isolator is bad and it is taking a lot of juice, sending it to your 2nd battery? Do you have a 2nd battery under your driver seat?
> 
> My EVWK only has a 120A alternator. I've never seen lower than 13.5 on my scanguage with the engine on and ac/lights on. I typically show 13.7. Battery is 2009.


 I don't have a second battery... Yet. Remember, this started out as a GLS.


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## meinvwauto (Jan 3, 2013)

rensho said:


> Cole, any chance your battery isolator is bad and it is taking a lot of juice, sending it to your 2nd battery? Do you have a 2nd battery under your driver seat?
> 
> My EVWK only has a 120A alternator. I've never seen lower than 13.5 on my scanguage with the engine on and ac/lights on. I typically show 13.7. Battery is 2009.


 _Battery isolator_....Ah, that might be for me but not Cole, he only got one Batt! *Rensho*...Where exactly is this locator located in a 2002 EVC? Thanks.. 

cheers...


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I've planned on adding a house battery all along. Part of the reason its so important to get this part Fo the system working right. I figured since my parts Weekeneder had sat for over 3 years before I bought it that I didn't need to take the house battery(it would have been bad) and everything under the drivers seat was covered in mouse poo:what: You may also remember that the drivers front of that van was bent, so there was little access to wiring through the drivers doors (sit in mouse poo to work on wiring:screwy So I left it all. 

The parts to add the second battery system shouldn't be that expensive with the exception of the new battery itself and a solar system for good measure. 

Ultimately I don't think we are going to need a lot of power. We won't be watching a big screen TV with surround sound or anything like that. However. I want to make sure we can more than charge a couple of phones, iPads, computer, batteries for cameras, power a fan/vent for keeping dogs cool while away from the van and maybe an espresso machine:screwy:. Power a fridge, furnace, etc. I want to run them without worry. :thumbup: 

It should also be able to do all this in the snow:laugh: Right now there is no way we could take this van skiing since you couldn't run the engine at idle to stay warm as it would just drain the battery. :thumbdown: 

I've been all over the place this morning researching high amp aftermarket alternators. Seems that for about $500 (cost of my stock 150a one) I could have a 270a-370a one built:screwy: I've also been looking at the Touareg VR6 alternator that *might* have the same mounting points and put out 180amps for the same price. 

I'm no expert on this stuff and I do realize I may not need that kind of power. I also realize it will potentially take a few extra HP to run a bigger alt.....but......this I some of those "better to have and not need, than need and not have" scenarios. I probably wouldn't worry about it quite as much if this van was a stick and could be run down a big hill and bump started


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Had to run downtown this morning which would land me near the alternator specialist again. So I ran out and yanked the alternator off again to take it with me. You wouldn't believe all the threads I've read on this where people with obviously no experience on the topic rant about the Eurovan engine bay and how much of a pain the alternator will be to work on. Totally silly stuff. Without the skid plate on alternator removal is seriously a 3 minute job. 

Anyway. We tested every possible test and this alternator is good........ Ugh.....and so is every ground and system in the car. Totally baffled!


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## djnibler (Aug 5, 2005)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Totally baffled!


 Have you looked at that pre-excited generator relay yet?


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## meinvwauto (Jan 3, 2013)

Don't see anything about Battery in your posts. Battery rejecting acceptance? Is it new and without faults: cell ??, . I know you're good at it.., but give the battery a heavy load/drain test at your friendly alternator man you just came from. 

Yeah, tell me about electrical Gremlins... 

cheers...


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

djnibler said:


> Have you looked at that pre-excited generator relay yet?


 Honestly don't know which position it is. There are two with a giant "53" ( or whatever the number was) printed on them. I just swapped them to see if there was a change. Nothing. That is all I had time for. 



meinvwauto said:


> Don't see anything about Battery in your posts. Battery rejecting acceptance? Is it new and without faults: cell ??, . I know you're good at it.., but give the battery a heavy load/drain test at your friendly alternator man you just came from.
> 
> Yeah, tell me about electrical Gremlins...
> 
> cheers...


 Yep, new battery. Retested, tests good. No voltage at all coming from alternator when mounted to the car :screwy:


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

djnibler said:


> If you find the relay this way, the part number will be right on it but just looking at ETKA, it looks like this MIGHT be the part number for it: 7D0959263C.


 Not sure where you are located but while that part indeed is a "series resistor" for 150AH alternator it was never used in any "Eurovans" only in T4 outside North America.


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## djnibler (Aug 5, 2005)

EV99 said:


> Not sure where you are located but while that part indeed is a "series resistor" for 150AH alternator it was never used in any "Eurovans" only in T4 outside North America.


 Yeah my ETKA skills are poor. It was just my best guess at the part number.


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## djnibler (Aug 5, 2005)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Honestly don't know which position it is. There are two with a giant "53" ( or whatever the number was) printed on them. I just swapped them to see if there was a change. Nothing. That is all I had time for.


 I would check the pin numbers and the colors of the wires that connect to them. Four pins with the following colored wires connecting: Blue, Black, Red with black stripe, and brown wire. If you have that, then it is the right relay. Just get the part number off the relay itself. If the relay is cheap you can just replace. 

Are you getting 12v on the blue wire to the generator when the engine is running?


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Ever have one of those brilliant moments where you realize you're an idiot?:screwy: 

After having everything including the diodes tested in the alternator again this morning by the alternator shop something dawned one me about one of my tests. 

My 20 year old test light was broken so I splurged the other day mid testing and bought a new one in a rush for $6 at the auto parts store. I used it to test and try to excite the alternator into action with no luck. 

Anyone want to guess why it didn't work? 








. 









. 










. 










It dawned on me this morning that the new test light is probably an LED inside instead of an incandescent bulb and won't provide enough resistance to "excite" the alternator. Went home and made a new exciter wire bypass out of an old KLR650 license plate light( who needs those on a KLR anyway?) Well, this time it worked. Alternator started putting out 13.6v. Sill not the 14.4 I would like to see but it was a major step in the right direction. 

The wire harness plastic cover from the alternator to the battery area has been taped up with electrical tape in the past. So obviously someone has been in there for some reason. Not sure what they did yet. I'm guessing some sort of bypass. I may even be connected to the 12v power outlet circuit I mentioned earlier. Which would explain why it doesn't work if this circuit is grounding somewhere. What I don't get yet is why the dash light works exactly like it should. Guess I will find out when I tear the harness apart to try to fix this right. I the mean time I may bypass it myself to a different circuit to make the van usable.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I'm seriously about to toss this whole van in the trash. I can't even begin to explain how frustrated I have become with this electrical issue, that makes the van undriveable!! 

I would be open to ANY ideas. 

Here is the current list of facts. 

-Alternator has been tested 3 times now. Twice by an alternator shop that has been in business for over 40 year! (so please quit sending me emails or comments about "how or who tested the alternator" They are stumped too and they know more about alternators than most ) They have checked EVERY function of the alternator and it tests GOOD!! 14.4 volts even under load! 

-Alternator won't charge in the car. Period. It only ever shows batter voltage. For a brief moment I could kick start it with a test light but that no longer works. 

-Battery light has always functioned normally. (lights with the key then shuts off after starting the car) until today. I tried jumping 12v to the blue exciter wire which must of done something. Since now I get a steady battery light with the blue exciter wire hooked up, but the light functions normally with the exciter wire unplugged from the alternator. Which seems to make no sense. 

I've started each day with a fully charged battery. Charge it with my Battery Tender until the light is green. Battery is new and tests good.


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## djnibler (Aug 5, 2005)

This is what I'd do: 

Disconnect terminal 2 of the generator relay. 
Disconnect blue wire @ D+ terminal of alternator 

Now test resistance between ground and the blue D+ wire to see if it is grounded. If so, something is spliced into it that shouldn't be, or it is shorted (assuming the warning light is an LED and it won't ground). 

Now test the resistance between the wire that was connected to terminal 2 of the relay, with the blue D+ wire. There shouldn't be any resistance. 

With key on, engine not running, are you getting 12v to the blue wire when disconnected from the alternator?


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

djnibler said:


> This is what I'd do:
> 
> Disconnect terminal 2 of the generator relay.


 I have yet, in days of web searching, to figure out if/which one is the generator relay!!! 

Anyone? Location? Pictures? 







djnibler said:


> With key on, engine not running, are you getting 12v to the blue wire when disconnected from the alternator?


 No. I get about 2.44v


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

One of the issues I've been having is that various places(in the rest of the world but not the USA vans) refer to an alternator exciter circuit relay. They say it is in "Position 53" The positions labeled on schematics and under the relays themselves don't go as high as 53, the relays themselves are labeled "53". Look at the picture and you can see why this hasn't been helpful so far.:screwy:


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## djnibler (Aug 5, 2005)

If you have the relay, I am 90% certain it would be one of the ones at the very top because this is typically where they put relays for optional components that not all cars have. The relays down at the bottom are more for common components like fuel pump, X-circuit, etc. Ignore the "53" thing since so many have that stamped on them. I don't know what it means anyway. And for what it's worth, I have never been able to rely on the relay numbers/positions shown in the repair manuals. I always find the relays using the methods below: 

The easiest way to ID the relay is to pull it and check the following: 
1. It will have a circuit diagram printed on the outside body of the relay. Compare this to the circuit diagram in the wiring diagram I sent you. 
2. Check the pin numbers on the relay, printed next to the pins. See if they match what is shown in the wiring diagram I sent you (8, 6, 4, and 2) 
3. Check the color of the wires that go into the block that the fuse plugs into. I listed the colors in a previous post. Note that this isn't always accurate because some years/makes have different colors, but if what you have matches the diagram, it's a sure bet this is the right relay. 

If you DONT have the relay, I will have to check the other wiring diagrams to see where the exciter gets its juice from. According to the diagram I posted, there is no reason you should be getting such a low voltage on the exciter wire. It should provide whatever voltage the battery has. I see no resistor or anything else like that in there. 

When you ran the test light to the exciter terminal on the alternator, did you disconnect the blue wire first? If not, you might try that..... if the blue wire is shorting or drawing current somewhere, this could impact your test.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

So after having the alternator tested 3 times, once by a auto parts store and TWICE BY AN ALTERNATOR SPECIALIST (and requesting to test the diodes at the Alternator specialist) I've discovered new information. 

I tore the entire dash apart last night and tested EVERY wire in the alternator circuit, all good!











Took the van over to Advanced Auto parts again to have them test the battery (tests good, again), then he ran a charge system test on it and came up with a bad diode in the alternator....WTF !**!!!*!*!*!*!*.... Talk about a crappy ass job at the alternator shop!!!!!! 

GRRRRR......time to just pony up the $450 and buy a new alternator and hope it cures this fiasco!!!











On an unrelated note. I seem to be collecting tires and wheels for the Eurovan. It now has 3 sets....and maybe a 4th.....just need to decide which ones I like and sell the rest. The deals were just too good to pass up.


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## djnibler (Aug 5, 2005)

Glad you finally figured it out!


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Okay....a little update. 


I found a 120 Amp alternator for a 12v VR6 used on Craigslist. The guy wanted $80.....and we settled on $50!......

The van had been charging fine at highway speeds so I figured I would drive it the 20 miles of freeway to go pick up the alternator. FAIL.....I made it to about 2 miles from the guys house and was all out of battery power....dead on the side of the freeway with cars passing by at 80 mph. DOH!! 

Luckily, the guy was nice enough to run the alternator out to me, where I swapped it on the side of the road. Its a bit ridiculous that I can do 10min roadside alternator changes at this point....ugh....I gave the guy $60 total for being a sport and rescuing me. That is the 3rd time this van has stranded me so far.....DOH!

It cured the issue!!!!!! I'm not even going to get into how frustrating it is to think "I should replace this alternator while I have the motor out" then find out that it is $500 and nearly impossible to get. So I have it tested and it tests "good".....3X.....by "experts"!!!!? Ugh....


Technically I still don't have the right one in this van since this one is a 120 amp and my stock one is a 150 amp. Since I have it running at the moment that will buy me some time to order a custom 200 amp version!! HA!

In the meantime I decided it would be good to add a house battery to this van since it did not come with one. Today was just finding a spot to mount it and running some wires. This is in the back next to the AC unit. The stock location under the drivers seat is now too short since I added a seat swivel to it. Won't fit under the hood due to ABS brakes. I'm off in a few minutes to find a proper battery box to mount this in. 










Today this is just wired in parallel with the stock battery so that they will both charge. Later today or tomorrow I will start to wire all the power outlets and house lighting to the house battery and isolate it from the chassis battery. 

Something like this. 









Eventually adding Solar to it something like this. 










Pictures stolen from this thread. 
How to make a cheap isolated dual battery setup


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I'm still waiting on parts to isolate the house battery from the chassis battery. 



.....but I figure with the Pikes Peak Hill Climb coming up this weekend. I needed to push forward with a couple of misc projects. 

The factory light over the table has been missing its bulbs. On top of that the circuit board didn't seem to work as I couldn't get power to pass through it. So I took it completely apart and added a 20 LED 2x3" light board in place of the bulbs. Wired it through the factory switch. 










I don't know if any of you ever noticed. The rear light above the bed had been replaced by the previous owner with a VERY ghettofab set up. You can see it here in the background. 










Among the parts I got from the lady I helped fix her van was this florescent fixture. It was stock on some years in the spot above the tabel where my other light is. 

I wired it in to the house battery in the back. Looks MUCH better. The bulb was good so I left it for the moment. 










Here is both of them on in a completely dark garage. Ultimately I'm going to add some LED rope lighting for mood and lighting in other spots of the van. But this will get it up and running for this race weekend.


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## rensho (Jan 21, 2002)

It looks a little top heavy to be very competitive in the Pikes Peak, no?


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Here is a shot of out camp spot for the Pikes Peak International Hill Climb! That is the race course just behind the van!












Unfortunately, we were also in the landing zone for the Flight for Life Helicopter that had to land twice for motorcyclists. We think both are going to be okay.










.....and here is the new record holder Sebastian Loeb. I can't even begin to describe how much faster he went by us compared to the other cars/bikes! 8:13 was the time, absolutely crushing the previous record.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

We went to a "cars and coffee" this last Saturday. Tons of really cool, unique and expensive cars! Always fun. We took the van! Which ends up being a constant conversation topic. 

Picture my friend at 3Zero3 Motorsports took and posted on their Facebook page. 

Also a great quote on a local forum by a friend of mine! 




> It's a sad day when Cole's Eurovan gets more attention than my Porsche turbo.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Minor tinkering today. 

Mounted and wired up a continuos duty solenoid today for the house battery. When the key is on, both batteries will charge from the alternator. When the key is off they are kept separate so that the house functions don't drain the starting battery. 

Right now there is only one overhead light and a 12v power outlet (x4) for charging phones/ipads/camera batteries/flashlights/etc.

Need to go back when I have some more time and wire the LED overhead light and the other power outlet ports to the house battery. Will probably wire the stereo to it also. Just need to decide what I'm doing with the stereo. 

Simple solution. 










I've actually got a couple of big fuses I'll wire inline when I upgrade the alternator.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Took th van out for 5 days of camping. Started in Manitou Springs, headed over to Lake Irwin just outside Crested Butte, Down to Telluride for a few days, back through Salida and Buena Vista.

Although 4wd wasn't ever needed the thought did cross my mind that it would be nice to have. So maybe I will have to revisit that project this winter.

Couple of pictures from along the way.


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## djnibler (Aug 5, 2005)

Love the Johnny Jumper hanging on the hatch. According to my mother, I loved mine as a kid 

Looks like a fun trip. Must be no insects where you were or they would have swarmed the inside of the van with the lights on and doors open. I always have that trouble. Made some screens for the sliding side windows to help that. Just having the side windows open doesn't give as much circulation as I'd like though so I'll have to find something for the rear hatch someday.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

djnibler said:


> Love the Johnny Jumper hanging on the hatch. According to my mother, I loved mine as a kid
> 
> Looks like a fun trip. Must be no insects where you were or they would have swarmed the inside of the van with the lights on and doors open. I always have that trouble. Made some screens for the sliding side windows to help that. Just having the side windows open doesn't give as much circulation as I'd like though so I'll have to find something for the rear hatch someday.



Colorado doesn't typically have a big bug issue. :thumbup:

I would like to make some screens though. He me pictures of yours?

I have a rear hatch screen. Just not sides or slider.


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## djnibler (Aug 5, 2005)

Here is one of the two. They aren't much to look at but work well. I have seen some with magnets but they are going to let small bugs through. These fit very tightly into the window channel with no gaps. To get the fit and curves just right, I used cardboard and trimmed/fit/trimmed until I got it right, then cut the frames out of thin plexi. Siliconed some screen in place. Could be make better looking but sure beats paying a couple hundred for the ones you can buy online pre-made. 

Hard to see in the pic but two of the corners have a very specific curve (the channels are curved at the ends so has to be just right in order to have a good fit in there)


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## a1junkie (Apr 26, 2000)

I went with a pair of these for my sliders. They work great, are secure and keep out rain too, so I can leave them in when I leave the van. I have the factory rear weekender screen, and a side screen from Franchers that I haven't got around to installing yet (in 4 years).


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## Lugboot (Sep 24, 2010)

If you do a 4WD conversion, i am so freaking interested in that.

We have a GLS that now has the GoWesty lift kit and BFGs on it. Syncro is the next logical step, of course.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Lugboot said:


> If you do a 4WD conversion, i am so freaking interested in that.
> 
> We have a GLS that now has the GoWesty lift kit and BFGs on it. Syncro is the next logical step, of course.


Pictures of your van?

I've thought more and more about the 4wd thing. Thinking about several options. 

First thing I've concluded is that the van definitely isn't geared low enough with the stock auto trans. It struggled to climb some of the steep streets in some of our mountain towns around here. Bigger tires would make this even worse!!

That said, the main advantages of 4wd would be for exploration and camping, not true "4 wheeling"( at least they type I'm used to:screwy 4wd would be great for ski trips, camping on a sandy beach or road, etc.

I've considered many options including a hybrid set up!


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## Seano (Jan 2, 2003)

As a T4 syncro owner (and one that is lifted)...I believe it is very easy for non Syncro owners to overstate the perceived performance advantages of the Syncro driveline both on and off road when compared to the front wheel drive T4. 

That said...I like my Syncro :laugh:

Though if I could afford an Iveco Daily 4x4 (about AU$80K) then I would jump away from VW quite quickly


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I think you're underestimating the ability to get stuck around here Either going skiing in the high mountain snow Or in the sand and mud getting in/out of local camp sites!











Fwd didn't work out too well for this guy on wet grass!:sly:















Seano said:


> As a T4 syncro owner (and one that is lifted)...I believe it is very easy for non Syncro owners to overstate the perceived performance advantages of the Syncro driveline both on and off road when compared to the front wheel drive T4.
> 
> That said...I like my Syncro :laugh:
> 
> Though if I could afford an Iveco Daily 4x4 (about AU$80K) then I would jump away from VW quite quickly


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

The project continues! 

Putting bikes on top of the van is a chore! So I've been hoping to find a rear swing out bike carrier. I figured eventually I'll be able to ride with my daughter. She turned 1/2 yesterday, so I wasn't in a big rush to find a different rack. 

I stumbled on a brand new, in the box $500 Thule Apex for $30 at a garage sale! So I snapped it up, stripped off the Thule stickers and here it is.......test fit over! Think I'm going to make a table to mount on it when bikes aren't on there. 












Then we took a trip tot he local fabric store, snatched a bunch of swatches.....they all suck! Will keep looking. Want either a GTI Interlagos style plaid or something seudo vintage VW van plaids. Want to use it on the curtains, seats, bed cushions, door cards, etc. Maybe even the Poptop if I can find the right fabrics! 

Anyway, here was the failed lot! 











Then I started to strategize with the carbo box! On the rack its just about 6" too tall. Kinda a pain to use and catches the wind quite a bit. So I figured I can make a custom mount to being it down flush and shorten the overall height and aerodynamics quite a bit. 


Current 









Plan! There is also enough room to mount two of these up there if I can find a deal on a second one. 












Then, last week my Aussie ate a "small stuffed pig" that got caught in his intestines. To keep this short.....4 days of puking and diarea in the van, followed by surgery and now a recovering pup! It's been steam cleaned 4 times!!









Despite getting the van all clean and smelling fresh again I decided to get back on the wood look vinyl flooring project. 

Through some of my trading I acquired a true "Weekender" floor. The big difference is that my GLS Carpet is carpet stuck to foam backing. The Weekender floor is carpet stuck to a weed subfloor. This subfloor is going to make it possible to put down the vinyl over it and make it all fit nice and factory like. 

The wood subfloor has all sours of little tapers and raised portions under it. So having a factory piece will make all the difference. My plan is to put aftermarket sound deadening under it before the install. 

Then I will have an easy to clean out cool looking floor. 

Here is the center section with the carpet scraped off. I will fill in the two holes for the jump seat mounts.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Mine has fewer total miles and a factory crate motor.....anyone want it? You can have it for slightly less than this one sold a few weeks ago! 

http://www.gowesty.com/sale_details.php?id=1627


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## Lugboot (Sep 24, 2010)

*GLS with GoWesty "lift" and BFG ATs*

Had to go camping to get you appropriate pics! Also in this project, we replaced all the steering rack and front control arm bushings, and front ball joints. Shocks are now the Bilstein HD. The torsion bars have been cranked up in the front and there are spring pads in the rear. The van drives awesome now. 

 

 

Yes, I would have to agree with you about the transmission gearing--the BFG tires are substantially heavier than street tires--but the van still accelerates well. It's a little sluggish on long mountain climbs, but it gets there. I'll make that trade for peace of mind. It's gets driven on dirt forest roads everytime it is used and the last set of street tires broke a belt well before they were worn out. 

For "real 4 wheeling" we have a Land Cruiser!


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## BenT Syncro (Oct 23, 2006)

Just throwing this out there. Should you guys decide to go Syncro, I know a guy in California who imports drivetrains but PM me for caveats before I give you contact details. 

In the Great White North, the "Canadian VWjunkie" (Sorry, Rob. Can't recall your Vortex moniker right now.) sells them as well.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Is this the same guy that has had the unreasonably priced pile of junk syncro parts on ebay forever?:sly:


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

This van thing is awesome! Has been so handy the last few weeks with an injured dog, 6 mo old daughter, etc.


Continuing the build, and still stumped on exactly what I want to do for tires and wheels. Thought I scored a cool set of 18" Mercedes reps with 245/40/18 snows on them with 85% tread left. But....sometimes you win, sometimes you lose, sometimes both!!

Bought the wheels from the personal assistant to some rich family that just wanted the tires and wheels out of the garage. Thought it was a fairly decent deal at $400. Got them home and started to test fit and refinish them when I discovered they were seriously cracked!! Not sure how I missed it the first time....DOH!










I called the guy back and gave him an option. Take them back or bring me $200 and I'd still keep the tires! He took option two! So I got the set for $200 which is a good deal on the tires. Just need to find some wheels. Figured a nice set of 18s with snows will look nice and work well until I figure out the manual trans swap and 4wd thing. Might even lower it abit until I have time for that part of the project. 

I did take these wheels in for a repair estimate. They wanted $100 to fix the crack, about $100 each to straighted the others and then even more for paint! Lunacy when you can buy a nice set of decent wheels as low as $300. (Notice I didn't say awesome or great wheels....this is still a van that will see dirt) The guy at the wheel shop also turned me off! He quoted me to straighten the wheels then asked about refinishing. I said I'd do that myself and he turned his nose up, rolled his eyes and said "you are going to refinish them????" In such a snotty tone I didn't even bother to reply. I just turned, got in the van and drove off!

Test fit before I discovered the crack.











I did sneak away for a few days to sleep on the ground and ride my motorcycle! Went to Westfest. Rode over many passes and to the top of Mt. Princeton(well, as far as can be ridden at 12k' not the actual top at over 14k')

St. Elmo.










Mt. Princeton.


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

FWIW, I had ET35 17x8 RH AD Cuprad rims with 245-45-17 tires on my 2000 and they looked amazing. This is another T4 with them but they looked even better on mine IMO.










When test fitting, make sure you fit the right-rear. My ET35 17x8s *just* barely cleared the sliding door. If you overlook that, you might end up with a setup that requires a new door track to make the door stand off farther.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Yeah, I've read about the door wedges. From my measuring it seems like et42 would be perfect. Suck them in just to the lip of the fender.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Well, its been a few weeks since I have had any updates. I will try to keep to the automotive fun stuff first and then the sad stuff at the bottom for those that care to keep reading. 

I have been torn on what to do with the tire/wheel situation for quite a while. The "standard method" of lifting these things includes running a 215/70/16 tire, usually on the stock 16" wheels. Unfortunately, the 215/70/16 BFG AT is a bit of a hard tire to find. Most often it seems it needs special ordered. Which is not the idea situation to be in for an offroad tire. That and my stock 16" wheels have a bunch of corrosion bubbling the paint. So at the very least I want to take them off and refinish them. 

Then there is the issue of the gearing. Even the stock 225/60/16s seem to make this van struggle to get off the line. Some of the steep places we have been in Telluride and other mountain towns have really made the van struggle to climb even in first gear. It's also a bit sluggish already on the steep passes up around 10K feet. Until I figure out the 4x4 and manual swap options here in the USA it might be best to stay with a stock, or even slightly smaller diameter tire. 

Then I looked at running a hybrid set up of larger 17 or 18" wheels with a tire size equal to the larger tire set up on the 16s. I have spent days and days looking and there simply doesn't seem to be an ideal size tire like this in anything other than a "highway" tire.

So I figured I'd try a bit of an experiment and run some 18s in a larger "winter" tire set up. The aggressive winter tread will at least give better traction on dirt and soft roads than the highway tires. Long story short, I ended up with a hybrid set up between craigslist finds and buying new. It also happens to be staggered and slightly larger in the rear. We will run these for the winter while the 16s get refurbished and see what we think by next summer. 

I found some cheap, beat up, 18s in offset 42 to play with. Here they are as a test fit with the spent tires that came with the wheels. 










...and with the 255/45/18 rears and 255/40/18 fronts. 











.....and of the car stuff for the moment if you want to quit reading here. 



I bought this Eurovan to screw around with so that I could continue to explore and camp with my new daughter, wife and pups. Now, unfortunately we have a little extra space in the Eurovan as my almost 10 year old Aussie "Guinness" unexpectedly passed away in his sleep a few weeks ago. On a Friday night he ate normally, played ball fetch with my daughter (okay, I helped), he ran, jumped, played as energetic and happy as usual. Went to be and laid at my feet just like he has every night for the last 10 years. Totally normal. We planned to take the whole family to the dog park in the morning to let the dogs run off a bit of energy. I was actually dreaming about how much fun it was going to be. The Aussie is always so enthusiastic that he makes every trip to the park an adventure. I woke up at 5am to find my Aussie had passed away in his sleep without a single peep. Laying there peacefully. 

Over the last 10 years my wife and I have had very flexible schedules and work at home often and simply take the dogs with us EVERYWHERE!! You will notice in the tire/wheel picture above there is only one dog. Most of my pictures have two. 

These were taken just a few weeks ago.


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

Sorry for the loss of Guinness Cole...they're truly wonderful family members.


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## meinvwauto (Jan 3, 2013)

Emma sends her condolences, Cole. Guinness is now at peace but still looking over your family from high up.


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## bigfatgeek (Feb 5, 2005)

So sorry to hear of your loss. It's amazing the bonds we form with our companions.


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## djnibler (Aug 5, 2005)

Sorry to hear of your loss Cole. I lost my first dog, Kooka, in January of this year. I knew it would be hard but had no perspective on it, not having lost a dog before. It was awful. Hope your other dog and family are able to provide some comfort, and I'm glad he went peacefully in his sleep.


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## nolamule (Jul 13, 2012)

This is truly saddening...RIP Guinness, my condolences Cole.


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## VW_Enthu1 (Oct 23, 2004)

D*mn. Sorry to hear. No words apply here. Condolences from the whole family.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Thanks to everyone for the kind words! I've had to put a dog down in the past and it was hard. Surprisingly, this seems harder because it was so sudden and unexpected. My other dog had been getting old for years and I kinda knew it was coming. So I guess I had been preparing for years. I also felt like I got to say goodbye. The way this happened makes you feel a bit robbed and lost to say the least. Especially when they are so involved in every movement of your daily life. 

We can get back to car talk now. I figured eventually some of the more observant people might start to notice the absence of Guinness in future pictures of the project.

The Eurovan is surprisingly more roomy without the giant personality of an Australian Shepard in it.


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## jets (Oct 12, 2005)

Sorry To hear about Aussie, I always looked at your dogs in your pics. Being a dog lover myself I know how sad I have been when I have lost a good mate. Do you think the recent eating of the stuffed pig & following surgery contributed to his early death?


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## lukeborn (Aug 19, 2011)

So sad to hear about your Aussie, I've been following this thread for the great talk about our amazing vans, but it really has been nice to know we aren't the only ones that do everything with our pups and vans. I love traveling with my 2 English Mastiffs and I can't imagine what you are going through, be strong. My prayers go out to you.

My traveling partners as you can see we outgrew the Golf pretty quickly

Also I would love to see that floor project once you get finished, my carpet has smelt like death since we bought this van and I would be quite interested in installing a simpler surface to keep clean, as long as the seats still install with no problem.


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

lukeborn said:


> My traveling partners as you can see we outgrew the Golf pretty quickly












:heart: it!


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## djnibler (Aug 5, 2005)

lukeborn said:


> I love traveling with my 2 English Mastiffs


Our EV transports our English Mastiff and a great dane (puppy) too


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## rensho (Jan 21, 2002)

Deeply sorry to hear about the loss of Guiness Cole. That really sucks.


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## WesT4 (Feb 8, 2007)

*This to shall pass.*

We had a very special canine family member pass as well some while ago. He was a rescue. At the shelter all the other dogs were going nuts while he sat calm and composed. We took him for a trial walk and named him Atza, Atza Gooddog, because he was so that. One year we did a big landscaping job and had a giant hole in the back yard that he was convinced was just for him. It was his spot, at least for the while. Many good years and memories later after adding our two girls to the family he too died rather suddenly. He owns that spot in the yard now.
But that new hole needed filling and so after a while the girls pressured daddy to get a new dog. She's another rescue, some kinda white Pitbull sort of thing. Not as bright as Atza but she knows how to call shotgun in the van, even when someone's already there. I taught her how to ask for things with her voice and now she never stops asking for things and of course we always give her what she wants. Someday she'll leave this place to but like everything we truly love they will all live on forever in our hearts.
Peace Ya'all

IVAN
Therefore:
I am
Dan


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Thanks guys. 

There are definitely a few moments that I'm not very motivated to work on the Eurovan since part of the point of the van was the dogs & my daughter. 


But......I have moved forward and made a little progress tonight. 

Got part of the floor done, despite the rain! 

Since I'm not running the rear facing seats I had to cut a few blanks and fill in the holes on the sub floor where those seats mounted. 



















This is the new laminate wood floor. The floor has a silver tint to it that matches the gray interior. Sorry for the dark cell phone pics. It was dark and raining out.


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## dapolrbear (Apr 30, 2004)

Looks great!


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

dapolrbear said:


> Looks great!


Thanks. One step closer to feeling like a more luxurious camper


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## djnibler (Aug 5, 2005)

Very nice! Laminate is a great option. Cheap and durable and if it gets soaked and buckles, just replace it since it won't take but an hour or two. I bet the rear seat rolls better on it too.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Yep! Rear seat works MUCH better than it did with the soft carpet over foam floor!!:thumbup:


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

A little Eurovan progress today. 

First off I accidentally bought another Eurovan:screwy:

1993 5cyl MANUAL transmission van. I figured I could take a couple of key parts off of it for future use and part out the rest of the van. The manual won't work with my VR6 but it will work with a TDI or I can use the lever and pedals for a future manual swap with the VR6. 










The late model van like mine don't have a glovebox! Just a knee bolster. From what I have read you can mount the early glovebox in place of the knee bolster. Wish I had known that before letting the glove box go to the crusher with my first donor van. 

This van also has a desirable crankshaft from the 5 cyl that I hope one of my Audi buddies can use for a turbo stroker build. 

Or.....I could do a sold axle swap, lift it up high enough to stuff a longitudinal driveline in it and go wheelin! 










I did do some very important mods to my van today!! I installed the bottle opener!!!!

Found an idea spot inside the sliding door. Puts the bottle opener in easy access from the outside of the van, or seated on the backseat with the door open. Should also drop any foam outside on the ground!!










With the door closed it will also be accessible even with the bed pulled all the way forward!!










The mount used one of the existing interior panel screws and one new one screwed into the door sheet metal. This location put the opener just a touch too close to the weather stripping when closed. So I had to trim the opener just a touch to make it clear. 










I also replaced the broken stock cup holders with some from ebay for $4.50 each. They didn't fit perfectly, but they will work fine for the moment.


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## BenT Syncro (Oct 23, 2006)

I don't own a T4 so not sure if the latch can work like that on a T3 (aka Vanagon). As you can see, bottle opener not needed.
😉


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

From past experience, can't use that with the door closed, don't have to explain it to a dozen dumb people all night for every beer:screwy::screwy:, and I had a stack of these bottle openers since I bought a dozen of them to mount around the garage


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## BenT Syncro (Oct 23, 2006)

Xtremjeepn said:


> From past experience, can't use that with the door closed, don't have to explain it to a dozen dumb people all night for every beer:screwy::screwy:, and I had a stack of these bottle openers since I bought a dozen of them to mount around the garage


On the upside, it's not easy to drive with the door open. Lowers chances of DUI.😊


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

BenT Syncro said:


> On the upside, it's not easy to drive with the door open. Lowers chances of DUI.😊




Or increases the chance of getting caught with the door open


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## BenT Syncro (Oct 23, 2006)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Or increases the chance of getting caught with the door open


Remove the door together ala' Xtreme Jeeping.


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

On that new parts van, definitely snag (for yourself or resale)...these things which are rather desirable or made of unobtainium or have a good demand:

1. Exhaust manifold and accordion connector if it's not cracked or split. Unobtainium.
2. Dash center bezel (around the switches and radio) if it's not smashed up (have to remove dash to get it out though). These are either unobtainium or at least not cheap or easy to find in good condition.
3. Exterior mirrors if they're working and both posts on both mirrors are still correctly "connected". (The internal hook on each post can break when you fold the mirror so don't fold them...just see if they feel stable if you just slightly jiggle them.) Common breakage item.
4. Turn signal switch if it's a cruise control model. These are unobtainium on older T4s (non-cruise-control T/S seems to still be out there).
5. Radio antenna. These are near unobtainium status.
6. ISV if it's working. These are not unobtainium but they're pricey new and they are also used IIRC on Digifant Mk2 Golfs and Jettas so there's a market for them.
7. Battery cover (mine's gone...might want a replacement at a reasonable price).
8. Belly pan (these always go missing...I could use one).


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Just a little quick shock/bungee cord tech for a cheap quickie DIY. 

While camping in the Eurovan we have discovered that there simply are not enough places to put little things. So working to make the existing storage space more efficient got put on the to-do list. 

There are all sorts of little indents, cubbies and unused space inside the van. There just needs to be a way to attach stuff to it. 

Here is my solution. I stopped at the army surplus store and bought way too much shock cord in two different sizes. Stuff was cheap so I got about 60 feet of it. 










Simply drill a couple of holes, tie a couple of knots, and the pictures tell the rest of the story. Could easily be used almost anywhere on any rig. 

The back of the seats had these great little cubbies, but no way anything would ever stay in them. 










After a couple of holes and knots. 



















Nothing fit in or stayed in this little cubby on the dash. So now maybe I'll find a new use for it. 










This center console is an oddball thing. Stuff doesn't stay in it great and small things pile up. (mainly kids toys in my case)










This should help keep a few things in it and I can now stick some things, like a map for example, to the outside of it, or to the insides of the console. 










There are a dozen more spots like this on the side of the seat that could be better used for storage when camping. A little pocket of shock cord here would be great for sunblock, flashlight, etc. I didn't do these today because I needed more time to take the seat base out to drill the holes where I want them.


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## VW_Enthu1 (Oct 23, 2004)

Man, you are killin me here - my wife an kids have now officially turned on me. They're saying things like "yeah, the 110 outlet in the back wired thru the tail light reflector and the power inverter on the back of the drivers seat was nice, but why didn't you do "this" or "that" like HE did? LOL. Great idea. :beer:


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

VW_Enthu1 said:


> Man, you are killin me here - my wife an kids have now officially turned on me. They're saying things like "yeah, the 110 outlet in the back wired thru the tail light reflector and the power inverter on the back of the drivers seat was nice, but why didn't you do "this" or "that" like HE did? LOL. Great idea. :beer:




Haha... :thumbup: off to show this post to my wife!


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## Seano (Jan 2, 2003)

Those little 'cubbies' in the rear of the seat bases are actually pockets for the feet of rear seat passengers in the dual cab chassis versions of the T4...you found a good way to re-purpose them in your case though.


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

Seano said:


> Those little 'cubbies' in the rear of the seat bases are actually pockets for the feet of rear seat passengers in the dual cab chassis versions of the T4.


Something us Yanks know nothing about thanks to our customs duties on imported trucks that kept the T4 trucks out of here.


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## salvaterra (Sep 13, 2000)

my driver's side seat on my 99 is missing the plastic cover alltogether and i use that as my glove compartment with a plastic tray that fits in the space. i might try a similar bungee solution to keep things from sliding out under heavy accelereation. 

been lurking both your threads (here and samba). great work :thumbup:


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Well.......the Eurovan didn't feel right with only one dog in it! It was missing an Aussie.....so we installed a new one.


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## meinvwauto (Jan 3, 2013)

What a beauty. You're so sweet Cole to keep the family intact. 

cheers...


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)




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## VW_Enthu1 (Oct 23, 2004)

Awesome. :beer: Wife and kids were "Awwwwwwww"ing big time. Everything seems right again.


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> So here is a picture of the welded on tab in the donor Weekender. (Which I should have looked at before welding mine brackets in:what
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I happened to run across this thread again and also finally (a while ago) got done putting in the MV table into my work van and thought I'd share How I decided to do it (got inspiration from the fact the the VW parts prg seemed to indicate rivets was used at some point)


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## et48 (Sep 24, 2013)

*Black camper roof*

Cole - Back in January you posted about a spray-on bed liner material for your camper top. Would you share what product you used? And how difficult is it to do??

Thanks, Everett


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## A4dream (Apr 14, 2009)

As usual Cole it's looking good


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

et48 said:


> Cole - Back in January you posted about a spray-on bed liner material for your camper top. Would you share what product you used? And how difficult is it to do??
> 
> Thanks, Everett



Thanks guys. 

The bedliner stuff I used was Duplicolor "Bed Armor". Doesn't spray on as smooth and nice as their standard stuff that I have used for other projects in the past. But, ultimately it seems to have worked. 

The van, unfortunately, is one of my vehicles that simply can't live inside at the moment. So it has been outside about 95% of the time since the bedliner was put on. Looks pretty much like the day I did it. Here are a few random pictures taken recently where you can at least see the top a little so show how it is holding up.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Harmonica storage.....duh! 


(Cause nothing else on earth fits here so this is obviously what VW van engineers had in mine)


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## Seano (Jan 2, 2003)

I keep two clutch pencils in mine...


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Been too busy to mess around with the van much.....hang with me here for a second.....

A few weeks ago I sold the original 1993 Weekender jump seats for $50. They had been for sale since I started this project. I wanted the extra room and I was missing the key "cool box" that went under the drivers side seat anyway. You might remember from an earlier post where I eliminated the mounting points for them anyway. 

About a week after I sold them I stumbled upon the factory cool box  I hear that it doesn't work "great" but I'm willing to give it a try. Might even look into modifying it for better performance. :screwy: There is some extra room in the back of the case! If you don't know these slide under the drivers side jump seat. 

The funny thing is the guy that bought the jump seats from me has an MV that wasn't equipped with a coolbox. So only one of the jump seats would actually work for him. 

Then a week ago I also stumbled on a guy selling the factory rear pull out bed seat for $75. I emailed him about it and he replied with "I just want this gone I'll take $25"....DEAL! I wanted an extra one to modify while leaving my current one in the van to use.....we will come back to that project later.

When I got there he also included another jump seat......strangely.....the jump seat that the guy that bought my jump seats really needs instead of the one I gave him with the coolbox space.....ugh......so I traded him back to acquire a seat base I'd tried to sell for a year and all of the sudden needed......:screwy:

Short story long now.....I got the cool box plugged into my half torn down KTM to test it. It's the only vehicle inside in a heated space with a plug to test it on. 

Tore down the jump seat and ground off the seat mounts. My plan is to put a steal platform on the top of it and mount another swivel. (probably just take the one from the drivers seat at the moment. Then I can mount the Recaro child seat to it. Which will accomplish a few things.

-Create one more seating location in the van. 
-Move my daughter up closer to me and my wife when driving. 
-Move her away from the dogs sitting on the seat next to her. (the aussie steals a toy now and then). 
-She can sit facing forward (in a few months) when driving, or rearward to face/sit at the table, or out towards the door of the van to see the view if desired. 
-It will also make it possible to put the rear seat into the bed position without having to remove the child seat!!!!! This has been a pain camping. Have to move it and store it out of the way. 
-This base has a few more pockets on it so that is added storage, and of course the cooler. 

....that is the thought anyway. 

Cooler testing.




















Rear facing cooler box jump seat. (missing the armrests cause I kept those for another project before selling it the first time)










Coolbox seat frame stripped down, mounts ground off and ready to mount a platform on it.


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## a1junkie (Apr 26, 2000)

How are you going to position the kulseat base so that it can swivel? The original location would have it jamming against the wall and the driver's seat. Are you going to use a spare front seat on the swivel, or customize the kulseat seat? Also, did you know you have to pop up the seat bottom to access the cooler in the stock configuration? I think it serves to keep the cooler from sliding out on its own, and holds the lid down tight.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

a1junkie said:


> How are you going to position the kulseat base so that it can swivel? The original location would have it jamming against the wall and the driver's seat. Are you going to use a spare front seat on the swivel, or customize the kulseat seat? Also, did you know you have to pop up the seat bottom to access the cooler in the stock configuration? I think it serves to keep the cooler from sliding out on its own, and holds the lid down tight.


My plan is to use a metal plate with swivel. The whole mount should put the kid seat 4-5" lower than it would sit on the cushion. 

Since I have no mounts in he the floor now I can position this thing anywhere I want it to make it work.

I know that the stock set up made it so that at you lifted the seat bottom for "easy" access. I am considering mounting this facing the door anyway. Might have to make it slide out easier so that it can be easily accessed without having to move the seat. Drawer slides? 

We will see.


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## a1junkie (Apr 26, 2000)

Can't wait to see what you come up with. I've been considering pulling my Kulseat base and replacing it with a box for a 3rd battery + solar/shore charge controllers, inverter, etc. and making it so the seat can be comfortably used by a passenger while I'm driving with the front seat all the way back.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Well, the kid seat is too big forward or backward to work like I would like:what: Sometimes you just never know until you give it a try. 

I think I'll still make a platform on top of the fridge box that will work as another seat, foot stool, etc


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## nolamule (Jul 13, 2012)

Cole,


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## b s k (Oct 12, 2004)

so much adv in this thread!
fyyff


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

:beer::wave:


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I have to admit, I've totally enjoyed having this Eurovan. I have no plans to get rid of it and will continue to build it as planned. 


However, after being temped by the dark side of the utility of a van I sold off my Dodge pickup that was being used strictly as a support vehicle for other projects. (Hauling parts, lumber, etc)

I decided to replace the truck with a more functional utility vehicle that I could also tinker with like the Eurovan. 

I'm hoping on a plane tonight to go pick up this 2004 Sprinter 3500 SHC 2.7l Diesel 158" dual slider. It's a cargo van but has dual heated seats, auxiliary programmable (timer) heater, power doors, locks, etc. Needs a bit of love and has some miles on it. But no more than my truck did really.

I'll be interested to see how I like it.











Part of what sold me on the idea was this encounter with a 158" camper. The angle is a bit off on the photo but my Dodge with a 6' bed was within inches of the exact same length bumper to bumper. I could build in basically the same interior I have inside the Eurovan and still have more cargo length than the pickup. Will be much easier to load motorcycles in also.

Sprinter should also get 2.5X the fuel mileage as the V10 Dodge!


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

Should be interesting. I myself really never understood pickup trucks for anything other than the ride height for off-road use and the need to carry "dirty" loads (anything that would mess up the interior of a van). It's so much nicer having a low load floor and closed-in cargo area that can be used for other things as well.


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## dhesq (Sep 16, 2013)

You got it made. You got it made for realz. Dood.


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## bigfatgeek (Feb 5, 2005)

Excellent! Don't forget about your European van-loving friends over here when you start tinkering with the Sprinter. And, on a side note, I drove past that Breeze Rentals parking lot just yesterday on my way back to Carlsbad from visiting the parents in Fort Collins.


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## djnibler (Aug 5, 2005)

Ahhh, the constant urge many of us battle when one project becomes mostly finished and we are on to the next 

Keep us posted.... the Sprinter is so close to the EV that I'm sure most of us are interested in what you're doing. I'm very curious to find out how expensive the parts are, what parts you end up needing for it, and how difficult it is to work on vs the EV. Also driving characteristics. 

Good luck and keep us posted!


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## steven goldstein (Jan 6, 2014)

*Lifting Rear Springs*

I have a 99 Eurovan Camper. "Winnibago" Where did you find the rear springs for lifting?

Steven [email protected]

(626) 688-3294 Cell/text


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

steven goldstein said:


> I have a 99 Eurovan Camper. "Winnibago" Where did you find the rear springs for lifting?
> 
> Steven [email protected]
> 
> (626) 688-3294 Cell/text


2001-2003 Eurovans are the ones that have a lowered factory suspension so therefore we can assume that 2000 and prior, including yours, have a higher suspension and therefore there may not be higher spring options.

However, you will probably get more bang for the buck out of buying a new pair of upper spring pads. If you search this forum, there's a thread on this and what ones from what years/models are different thicknesses. That's where you should be able to get some noticeable height.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I'll type up a little review comparison soon. In the meantime, if you are bored, here is some pictures and video of the trip to pick up the Sprinter in Augusta, Maine to drive it back to Denver, Colorado.


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

So I'm guessing that since there's no video of you broken down at the side of the road that it made it back OK?


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## linkindinkin (Nov 5, 2009)

Wow that is BIG! Nice score!


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

gti_matt said:


> So I'm guessing that since there's no video of you broken down at the side of the road that it made it back OK?


I had a few minor issues.......but all easily fixable on the way home! Which honestly os part of the fun for me! Like being dropped naked on a deserted island. Can't take tools along so have to strategically get stuff along the way! 

-Heater fan/controls don't work. But there was conveniently a switch for some fog lights on the dash and the corresponding wiring under the hood. Wired the switch to manually run the heater blower and had heat all the way home.

-Radio wasn't hooked to the speakers. :sly: wired it up to the ghetto home Bose speakers that were on the cargo wall and it sounded pretty good on the way home.

-Had the tail pipe come loose at the backside of the muffle in KC allowing the muffler to hang down. This was fixed with some stainless wire and a multi tool bought at Walmart on New Years eve.


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## bigfatgeek (Feb 5, 2005)

Are you *sure* that it won't fit in the garage? 

Sweet van, enjoy it! Oh, and what kind of mileage did it deliver on your journey?


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

bigfatgeek said:


> Are you *sure* that it won't fit in the garage?
> 
> Sweet van, enjoy it! Oh, and what kind of mileage did it deliver on your journey?


Anything below 70mph I got about 23mpg. Dropped off above 70 mph but that will soon be changed with larger tires!


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## Seano (Jan 2, 2003)

Xtremjeepn said:


> ...but that will soon be changed with larger tires!


Are we thinking lift kit and 4x4 conversion? :laugh:


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## rensho (Jan 21, 2002)

That's a rare bird in the US since it has a slider door on the driver side.

I like that 158", even though it is long, it fits a dirtbike inside and still leave enough room for a living room.

Should be fun.

What'd you pay for the van?


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

rensho said:


> That's a rare bird in the US since it has a slider door on the driver side.
> 
> I like that 158", even though it is long, it fits a dirtbike inside and still leave enough room for a living room.
> 
> ...



Part of the reason I wanted it was the dual slider. Only one I've seen in a 158" in the USA. Saw one other 118" listed at a dealer when I was looking. I have been amazed at how handy it is already. No more walking around to toss stuff in and out. 

I figured a 158" would be the best option for me since I was basically replacing my utility vehicle (Dodge pickup) with it. Which made perfect sense. I traded a 6' bed 10mpg "tool" for a 14' cargo space 23mpg tool that offered more utility. That way I could build in some "family space" up front. Way more than in the "quad cab" pickup and still have more cargo room for motorcycles, bikes, parts hauler, etc. 

I shopped for nearly a year for what I would consider a "fair" deal. These vans still have some stupid asking prices. :screwy: I picked this one up for $6k + shipping costs(fly, drive, hotel, etc). Which based on the asking prices around it should give me room to fix it up a little and if I don't like it I can probably get my money back out. :screwy: I've seen some crazy prices out there. Similar vans to this one with asking prices over $20K:screwy: Which makes no sense to me for a higher mileage 10 year old van when new ones start at around $35k (stripped) The strange thing is many of them seem to sell

I basically want to build something like this out of it.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I know I've been busy playing with my Sprinter but my buddy Chuck insisted I buy these heated leather Audi S4 seats from him! They will take a bit of fab work but they should match the S4 steering wheel perfectly!


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I haven't forgotten about my T4 Eurovan. 

Had a buddy make me a "prototype" first run wood table to replace the stock plastic one. We are planning on replacing all of the wood boards in the van with "real" wood. 

This is currently made out of Alder and we may stain it a light grey to match the van better. It already smells so much nicer in the van This table is notably lighter than the stock table.


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## bigfatgeek (Feb 5, 2005)

Wood is good.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

When I bought the Eurovan one of the very first things I did was add the front seat swivels. I never really drove it without them. At 6'2" tall it's always bugged me how tall the seat is in he the van. It's not so much the height off the floor but rather the headroom and view out the front window. I have to drive kinda bent over to see under the tinted strip at the top of the glass. 

This of course has caused some back issues. I always thought it might be the van but never really thought too hard about it. That is until I started driving the Sprinter around. The seat is just as high but since the windshield is much bigger I don't have to bend down. Which has proven to help with the way my back felt. Which means it was time to "fix" the seating issue. 

I was hoping to use the Audi S4 seats I picked up. But ultimately they were going to be WAY too tall and too much fab work to mount. So I sold them and moved on! 

First I took out the seat swivel and drove the van for a day. Much more comfortable! 

Then.......I stated cutting!!!! 

The stock seat base is about 7 1/4" tall. The seat swivel adds about another 1 1/4 in. It doesn't seem like that extra inch and a quarter would be that big of a deal......but it is! 

Here is the seat base, it needs cut down to 6"!!!










Here is the line where I cut the seat! 










Back 










Front. You'll notice the extra line on he the front section. I cut this base down so to that I could notch and fold the four sides in. This would allow the upper portion to slide down into the lower portion. Then I could weld both the upper lip and the inside 1 1/4 overlap. Making a stronger connection than the stock set up. 




















Somehow once the welder came out I forgot to take a bunch of pictures. Here you can see what needed trimmed off the rear trim piece and the nearly finished short base with swivel on he the workbench. 










Done!!










Sorry of the dark picture. It was getting late. 

From the back here you can see the height difference buy looking at the different height of the rear trim panels.


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

Xtremjeepn said:


> When I bought the Eurovan one of the very first things I did was add the front seat swivels. I never really drove it without them. At 6'2" tall it's always bugged me how tall the seat is in he the van. It's not so much the height off the floor but rather the headroom and view out the front window. I have to drive kinda bent over to see under the tinted strip at the top of the glass.


This is a good point. For my 5'8.5" stocky self, it's not an issue but yeah the Eurovan's seat bases do seem unnecessarily tall. It's already a little bit of a step to get up in there due to the raised cockpit floor over the fuel tank, so the tall seat bases really have me thinking "why?". They easily could be half the height.


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## chendermi (May 20, 2004)

One reason for the original seat base height might be so that a European-sized battery could still fit under the driver's seat. There are other battery options, of course.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

The stock weekender battery is under the drivers seat. When I made my house battery system I chose a larger battery and put it in eh the rear compartment .


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## jets (Oct 12, 2005)

chendermi said:


> One reason for the original seat base height might be so that a European-sized battery could still fit under the driver's seat. There are other battery options, of course.



My van was converted, when new, by a company called Trakka who used parts from the VW parts bin. The swivel seats don't look like the pics. here but have a large central column. I am 6 ft & the seating is too high for me particularly looking out the side windows & viewing the instruments. I only learned a couple of years ago that these seats lower while rotating, compensating for the lower floor height when facing towards the rear.
IMO there is no reason why they needed to be so tall as nothing can be stored under. The extra length of tube may help to keep the seat more ridged though.


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## Lugboot (Sep 24, 2010)

That height issue is exactly why I haven't bought a swivel adapter for the driver's seat. I got one replacement swivel seat base for the pasenger side and then the company quit stocking them. I'd like to add a swivel to the driver's side--might have to consider what you did here to lower the finished height.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

GOOD NEWS!!!

The cool retro VW plaid seat upholstery project looks like it will get done sooner than expected! :coffeedrink:

.....and so will the matching curtians 


(I may also have a deal for someone on an Aussie puppy)


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

Oh my....someone was very VERY bored.


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## djnibler (Aug 5, 2005)

Ugh, I can relate. My great dane puppy chewed part of my interior trim and my seatbelts. There just isn't a great solution aside from crating them in the car while they are still too young to really know what is not ok to chew on. 

Looking forward to the re-upholster write-up


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

In the last 24 years of dog ownership I've driven around with 4 Aussies, a wolf hybrid and a Samoyed nearly daily. Over that time frame I've owned 30 some odd cars only 2 of which were VWs (not including parts cars). Only 2 have had interiors chewed up buy dogs........the VWs:screwy: Oddly, the two dogs that did the chewing are my current two dogs:what: the wolf hybrid chewed up a leather seat in my wife's GTI 9 years ago! 

So the question is.....what does VW do to make their seats so tasty?:laugh:


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

Xtremjeepn said:


> So the question is.....what does VW do to make their seats so tasty?:laugh:


Fahrvergnugen


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Love my dogs too much to have dog free zones! Bought the van to take the family, including the dogs, fun places.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

EV99 said:


>


After reading my previous statement again. Remembering all the love and joy that dogs have brought to our lives, I'll stand by it.!! :thumbup:

In the end, the pup chewed up a seat that I was going to strip down anyway. It was a 21 year old seat that spent at least 3 years exposed to the environment here in Colorado's high Rockies. It sat in the parts van covered in all the engine and crash damage parts for the 3 years from the crash to when I bought the parts van. 

So other than speeding along that project, there really is no ill effects.


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## djnibler (Aug 5, 2005)

Xtremjeepn said:


> So the question is.....what does VW do to make their seats so tasty?:laugh:


I will say that every VW I have owned (14 in total now) has had a similar smell. If you sit me blindfolded in any ~10 year old car, and it doesn't have any kind of air freshener, I will instantly be able to tell you if it's a VW. I have grown to like the "VW smell" and I'm guessing dogs must like it too :laugh:


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

But seriously...yeah if you bought the van to take your dog and kids places, while you wouldn't want the behavior to be repeated,it kinda does come with the territory. Probably no different than a kid who suddenly decides to "color" on the upholstery with a pen.


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

gti_matt said:


> it kinda does come with the territory. Probably no different than a kid who suddenly decides to "color" on the upholstery with a pen.:P[/QUOTE]
> 
> I have/had kids and many dogs and plenty of VWs and I must say I have to disagree about it coming with the territory.
> 
> ...


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

EV99 said:


> Kids and pets both need to get instructed on what is suitable and what is not, and if/when done properly everyone involved will be so much more content.


True, although with kids (since we speak the same language) you can tell them ahead of time "Pens are used on paper only!".

But how do you pro-actively "tell" a dog "this toy for you, not the car!"? It's not as easy. Sometimes there has to be a violation (or one about to be committed) in order for the punishment to be the communication about the issue. Or, at least you have to be a helicopter doggy dad and hover around ready to catch the dog ABOUT to do something wrong in order to stop the behavior RIGHT before it happens.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I'm a serious Motörhead. 6 cars and 4 motorcycles. 


For the most part cars are meant to be driven not just looked at! :thumbup:

Especially a camper van! Its entire purpose in life is to haul families around for adventures! Saturday happens! 

I've got cars that I don't leave the alone in. Which means that they rarely get to ride in those!


Not "never" though. :what:

951


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

gti_matt said:


> True, although with kids (since we speak the same language) you can tell them ahead of time "Pens are used on paper only!".


I would dare to say that a dog might just comprehend us humans more than a kid at the age where they would be drawing on seats 



gti_matt said:


> But how do you pro-actively "tell" a dog "this toy for you, not the car!"? It's not as easy. .


You haven't had any dogs have you? I don't have to understand dog-ese since the dogs around humans are bilingual (if not trilingual) in their comprehension of their own "language" and on top of that human voice and hand commands. Not to mention the limited we still understand about how dogs use their extraordinary sense of smell to even tell time yes that's right time! http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/nature/dogs-sense-of-smell.html http://video.pbs.org/video/2365222619/

I am convinced our dogs can sense when the difference between an argument and just otherwise loud conversation with their nose, and yes I grew up with 20+ dogs  I confess I might get better along with dogs at times than humans!  



gti_matt said:


> Sometimes there has to be a violation (or one about to be committed) in order for the punishment to be the communication about the issue.


Not really, a dog is typically very easy to train to understand the command/word "NO!" and it can apply to almost anything, he/she (ok "it"!) also will learn what things or behavior
was not allowed or approved of even _before_ it's even been accomplished.



gti_matt said:


> Or, at least you have to be a helicopter doggy dad and hover around ready to catch the dog ABOUT to do something wrong in order to stop the behavior RIGHT before it happens.


My dogs hover around me!  whether I want it or not 

Anyway let's get back on track cause this was definitely NOT what VW meant by Multivan (this topic)


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)




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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Xtremjeepn said:


>


The Eurovan is my dog's favorite vehicle by far, only issue at times is he has learned how to open the power window, literally! 

Least favorite is our New Beetle


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## rensho (Jan 21, 2002)

How true.

My aussie LOVES the EV, and Hates the A4 wagon and Outback wagon. I have to literally drag, i mean drag, him into the wagons. He runs and lays next to the EV when he is let out the front door.


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## rensho (Jan 21, 2002)

My 3yo aussie needs to chew every day too. Luckily for me, he no longer chews on my stuff. Oh thank you...


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

rensho said:


> My 3yo aussie needs to chew every day too. Luckily for me, he no longer chews on my stuff. Oh thank you...


My last Aussie *kinda* grew out of it at about 1.5years.. But once about every 3-4 years he might sneak in a nibble on something random


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## Itsamoto (May 1, 2014)

I gotta say - love this thread and it's incarnation on the The Samba. Great story telling, and fearless DIY. 

It's threads like this that demystify things on the van, trail-blazes through issues and gives people the courage to own one. It did for me - -I followed this thread quietly -- and instead of taking on a Vanagon (as I had been researching for 5 years) - - I chose the Eurovan! My only regret is that I didn't buy one sooner - could have been enjoying it all this time.

You might be slowing down on things to do with the van-- or moving on to the next project -- but it's been real slice to watch/read along. Thanks for a stellar thread (and most viewed ever in Van category at Vortex!).

:beer:


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

eace:

:thumbup:








Itsamoto said:


> I gotta say - love this thread and it's incarnation on the The Samba. Great story telling, and fearless DIY.
> 
> It's threads like this that demystify things on the van, trail-blazes through issues and gives people the courage to own one. It did for me - -I followed this thread quietly -- and instead of taking on a Vanagon (as I had been researching for 5 years) - - I chose the Eurovan! My only regret is that I didn't buy one sooner - could have been enjoying it all this time.
> 
> ...


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

My Eurovan next to the Sprinter












And a Vanagon (modded)


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## Itsamoto (May 1, 2014)

A sight to behold. And FWIW -- that's a better comparison photo of your vans than the one from your driveway.

Your multivan looks brand new sitting there. I'm beginning to be convinced that the long production runs and lack of suitable replacement van really help these vans maintain their appeal - both the T4 and T3. 

Can you share what sort of modifications have you made to the Multivan's suspension? Is it slightly lowered - or is just an optical illusion with your behemoth sprinter next to it?


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Yeah, the wife met me at the dog park today which gave a nice opportunity to photograph both on flat ground instead of the driveway. 

Thought some of you would find the size comparison interesting. I always see comments on forums like "buy a Sprinter, it's like a Eurovan but diesel" 

I don't have any suspension mods on the Eurovan, yet. I was in a strong debate between loft vs lower. The problem I see with lifting the EV is that first gear is already really tall, so larger tires would just put more strain on it getting moving. Making it slower than it already is. 

The current wheels are 18x8 et43 I think. With 255/40/18s front and 255/45/18 rear. I think I may lower is with the "cup kit" now that I have the Sprinter.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Must be spring time and everyone is working on their cars.opcorn: I've had a bunch of recent questions about how the cam adjusters come out. You guys remember right? That issue that was really the problem that was causing my timing issues and not the chain and guides. 


Anyway. I shot a super quick video on how they come out since it is a popular question. Maybe this will help others.


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## kauboi (Nov 3, 2004)

I went through this and broke my first one, not prying it out correctly. I had the whole plate off and luckily found a used replacement. Thanks for the vid!


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Some of you may remember from earlier in the thread that I spend a day helping a nice lady and her family last year install the entire interior in here Eurovan. She kinda got robbed on a van that had a gutted interior. I gave her a ton of the spares I had and spent about 10 hours helping install it. 

Well, I talked to her earlier this week and guess what she had laying around? A Weekender rear seat to match my van. She gave it to me with the matching rear cushion for the help last year. We talked a bit and I told her I could help work out some other issues with her van when she is ready. ( a few more interior bits to sort out)

So I can take my time again and source the fabrics for the upholstery project later.


----------



## jets (Oct 12, 2005)

It's really good to see owners helping one another & you have been rewarded by your generosity. Keep your posts coming.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

"Petris"


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## mugen85r (May 11, 2003)

Great thread.

Any plans for the sprinter? any ideas on when you will start on it?


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

mugen85r said:


> Great thread.
> 
> Any plans for the sprinter? any ideas on when you will start on it?



Thanksl :thumbup:

This is largely the thread on the Sprinter here. I've made some progress but it's been slow. 

http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...-WTF-did-I-just-fly-to-Maine-to-by-a-Sprinter!


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Well, I stumbled on this on craigslist. 

http://www.soundproofcow.com/Quiet-Batt-30-Soundproofing-Insulation.html

80% recycled sound proofing/insulation material that was new leftovers from a shooting range build. 

I got 5 giant boxes of the stuff for about 35% of the new cost.

My Sprinter desperately needs insulation to keep the heat down in summer and cold out in winter. (And its noisy). By my math here I should have enough of this stuff to do the Eurovan too!!! Score!!


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## bigfatgeek (Feb 5, 2005)

^nice score!


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I've got about 50% of the Sprinter insulated with this stuff and have realized I have way more than enough to do the Eurovan too. So I cracked it open to do some panels. 

My hope is that it will knock down some road noise and retain heat/cold better, which means the heat & AC don't have to be run as hard, which will all make conversation and the radio better. Plus more comfortable camping.

This stuff is very similar to the factory stuff that is behind every panel on the van already. Just thicker and a touch more dense. It should still breath well so that it dries vs trapping moisture. (Shouldn't be an issue here in the high desert anyway). One of the boxes was wet when I got it from sitting in the rain and the insulation was dry to the touch. It wasn't absorbing the moisture anyway.

Here is a picture of the inside of the rear hatch panel as an example.



















Note the giant open empty spaces!










Rear hatch stuffed with sound insulation. Amazing the thud the panels make when filled with this stuff. Seems to work very well.










So far all I've done is the slider and rear hatch and there is a notable difference in noise and temperature.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

:screwy:...


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Just a little update. 

I finally had to add a new battery to the van today. Other than that it has been fairly flawless. Just change the oil and enjoy. Speaking of which, I just changed it again today with Mobile one at just over 172,000! So that is roughly 20k on the new engine:thumbup:


While I was in there I figured I'd take a quick picture of this hose that slips off the end of the valve cover. Seems it gets a touch of oil in it and doesn't stay connected very well. This has been the source of the infamous vacuum leak that creates a lag, poor idle, hard brakes, etc. Its most noticeable right after start up. 

I know many people have experienced this issue so maybe this will help!

I cleaned all the oil out of the hose connection and coated it with a sticky aircraft gasket sealer. I'm sure that even using hairspray to add some stick to the rubber connection would help.

This is the drivers side of the valve cover.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Well, it makes me sad to say this but the van has been sold. 


I decided that it would be worth the most at its peak with the new engine so put it up for sale......obviously I did not ask enough since the deal was done within about an hour of my listing it for sale. 

The van isn't perfect but is probably one of the best you can get at the moment. 

As part of the deal I agreed to do a bunch of work to make it the ideal van for its new family. 

Since I never swapped the top fabric and it still has the original fabric from the 1993 I included a new top installed of the buyers choice for a full price offer. So I will be putting a new grey 3 window cotton top on it! 

I also never settled on the tire/shock issue. Part of me wanted to lift the van, part of me wanted to lower it. Either way, it needed shocks at 173k miles. So the new owner chose to lift it slightly. So I will be turning lifting it up a bit, installing HD bilstiens nd new snow tires on the original 16" wheels. 

While I'm in there all new pads and rotors, tie rods and ball joints are going on. The van didn't need it, but for a premium price that are going to get a premium van! Best to start with as much new hardware as possible. This van is going to a family with 3 kids so it should start on the safest platform possible!

I'm going to put a Pioneer bluetooth stereo with satelite radio in. 

The cool part is we are going to do what I've always wanted to do and ditch the dull automotive grey wood panels. I've got a friend that does wood woofing and we are going to make alder panels for every board in the van! 

The new owner also wants an awning so she is having one shipped to me and I agreed to install it for her.

She is going to pick up the van in early November. I will post pictures of all the remaining work! 



.......and on a slightly lunatic note! I Accidently bought another 1993 Poptop donor van last night on ebay! Not sure exactly what I'm going to do with it. My wife liked our black van but has always preferred the blue ones! So maybe I will find a good blue one to build, maybe it will get a diesel this time! Or.....if anyone wants one I'd be happy to build one for you for the right price ;-)


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Working on cleaning up a few things for the new owner. 

Today was this silly broken shift trim. It's broken on nearly every Eurovan I see. My toddler broke it off on mine. 











I took the broken piece out and went into a plastic supply place to see if they had anything like it. The guy said "no". 










That's when I asked about this big black sheet of plastic that was laying there. It's jsut slightly thinner and not as brittle as the stuff the van came with. 

He laughed and said "that's just the box liner for the acrylic!" I replied...."how much?" He laughed again and gave it to me! Score!



















Works better than stock!


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## Itsamoto (May 1, 2014)

Congrats on the sale. :thumbup:

I saw the van in the Samba classifieds -- and was worried this meant the end of your van updates. Like others, I want to DIY my van as much as possible -- and your thread has been informative and inspiring.

I will soak up what's left of the odd jobs that you will perform -- and then hope that you decide to do another.

Cheers :beer:


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Parts! This is only part of what I need but it's a good start for the new owner! Now I need to get to work!




















I also used ths as an excuse to buy a blast cabinet for the garage! The stock wheels had some surface corrosion that I wanted to clean up and refinish to mount these new tires on! You can see a stock wheel sitting there on the ground after blasting the center area of it.


----------



## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Itsamoto said:


> Congrats on the sale. :thumbup:
> 
> I saw the van in the Samba classifieds -- and was worried this meant the end of your van updates. Like others, I want to DIY my van as much as possible -- and your thread has been informative and inspiring.
> 
> ...



Thanks!:thumbup:

I clearly did not ask enough


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Blasted and painted the stock wheels. Still need to do a little finish sanding but they are a more metallic silver than the stock color so should look pretty cool.










This is just a teaser photo of the woodwork we are doing. It's just sitting in there and raw in the pictures. It will be oiled and sealed. We are also doing the rear shelf and a few other tidbits to match. 











Soldered up a brand new wiring harness for the new stereo that will have bluetooth and satellite radio.


----------



## chudzikb (Sep 21, 2000)

Your passion and skills will be missed by this site. You have experienced a lot more than a lot of us have with yours.

Good luck in with your future vehicles!


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

chudzikb said:


> Your passion and skills will be missed by this site. You have experienced a lot more than a lot of us have with yours.
> 
> Good luck in with your future vehicles!


Thank you. I appreciate that very much


.......but I'm not sure I'm going anywhere as this is sitting on my trailer right now and I'm in a wine bar in Omaha Nebraska on the way home from getting it.

.......figured it would be parts for a future project. 

I need a bright metallic blue MV now with a bad engine. Anyone?


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## marshy (Aug 7, 2012)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Thank you. I appreciate that very much
> 
> 
> .......but I'm not sure I'm going anywhere as this is sitting on my trailer right now and I'm in a wine bar in Omaha Nebraska on the way home from getting it.
> ...


Congrats on the win.

Here's a start,
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-...VOLKS[EUROVAN[]][]]&listingId=384199660&Log=0


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## MtnVariant (Sep 1, 2001)

Spotted Cole driving the last leg home on 470 today. I spot a t4 on trailer as im heading to appointment and speed up to catch better visual. I exit to Pena east bound and notice Porche pulling it.....gotta be Cole i think. Finally check here and confirm my thoughts.

bitter sweet on the sale im guessing. Im sure there are more projects coming.
rob


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Yep! That was me. Just collecting parts to build another one.

Today's progess on the one about to leave. 


New larger tires mounted up on the freshly painted wheels!










Almost all of the interior is back out for the stereo install. Safelite antenna had to be run to the back, bluetooth microphone in the A pillar, etc!

The new 3 window top arrived today so the old top came off.


----------



## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Satellite radio receiver installed behind passenger dash panel. 












New bluetooth stereo installed. It's actually the stereo that was in my 951 since I'm going to to a hidden stereo bluetooth set up in that car. 













New 3 window top!


----------



## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I could post all the nitty gritty detail pictures but I'll save you guys the pain. 

Yesterday the van got all new tie rods, all new discs and pads, new HD Bilstiens, one new lower ball joint(other one was new last year), I fabricated some rear spring spacers and lifted the van. 

New wheels and tires web on, media blasted and painted shock mounts and lug nuts. 

I'm missing one VW center cap! Anyone have one?


----------



## Itsamoto (May 1, 2014)

Looks awesome. You are really going that extra mile for your buyer -- that's really good to see.

I like the lifted look -- and I have a small lift on my van that the PO put in place. The problem is it doesn't look as even front/back as what you have here. Did you follow the DIY from the EV-Update or did you do something else?


----------



## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Itsamoto said:


> Looks awesome. You are really going that extra mile for your buyer -- that's really good to see.
> 
> I like the lifted look -- and I have a small lift on my van that the PO put in place. The problem is it doesn't look as even front/back as what you have here. Did you follow the DIY from the EV-Update or did you do something else?



I just made it up as I went along:screwy:

The rear spacers are about 3/8" and I adjusted the front to be about 3/4" lower than the rear to still give it some forward slope. That was still nearly 1.75" upward adjustment on my van. Interestingly, it wasn't even left to right when I started. The drivers side was about 3/4" higher.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Upper bunk finished (trim needs bolted down but I'm not done with a few things. 

Fiamma 45 Awning 95% installed in stealthy black!


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

One thing about all German cars in the early 2000's is that they used a stupid "soft touch" coating on many of the places in the car you touch. 

The problem is that the coating wears off and looks like crap! This is a huge problem on some of the early 2000s Audi's where the stuff was used EVERYWHERE! 

Fortunately on some cars like the Audis there were early non-soft touch cars to scavenge parts from. 

You would think this would be the same with the Eurovan as the 1993 van doesn't have soft touch. BUT.........the parts in the later VR6 vans are different than those on the early vans. (might be able to get it from a 1997-1999 van but the parts are tricky to find) 

Anyway. The Eurovan uses this stuff in only a few spots and it has been driving me nuts. 

So I figured I would clean it off. Here is an example on the passenger grab handle. 


....and after removing the soft-touch
[url=https://flic.kr/p/pyAk4M]


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

A little more clean up of the "Soft Touch"

Before.









After










Also finished and tested the Fiamma Awning. Kinda wish I had this on the van for my own use. A bit disappointed in the supplied hardware so I went and got proper stainless steel stuff fit for a van!!









Test deployment in the garage!


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## djnibler (Aug 5, 2005)

Looking good Cole! 

How did you clean up the soft-touch parts? I've been wanting to figure out a good way of doing this to me '93 for ages. I've tried wiping it down with acetone but that seems to actually dissolve the plastic as well, and changes the texture. Very curious to see how you did it and how long it took you.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

93 doesn't have "soft touch". I think the earliest any manufactures used it was 2001-2002.

I don't have a cure for the sticky 1993 plastics.


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## djnibler (Aug 5, 2005)

Ahh sorry, I misread what you wrote above about the '93.


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## marshy (Aug 7, 2012)

djnibler said:


> Looking good Cole!
> 
> How did you clean up the soft-touch parts? I've been wanting to figure out a good way of doing this to me '93 for ages. I've tried wiping it down with acetone but that seems to actually dissolve the plastic as well, and changes the texture. Very curious to see how you did it and how long it took you.


I used Goo-Gone on my sticky plastic and it worked great. I suppose WD 40 would work good too. Just remember to remove the part you're cleaning and let all the stink dry out of it before re installing it.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

There ya go!


I've only had 93s that were for parts and the pets I take haven't been sticky for some reason.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

.


I know you guys already think I'm a lunatic. 

First thing on this mornings agenda was to respray the roof. 

When I originally used the bedliner on the roof I only did a light coat to see how I liked it and how it held up.

It really is an ideal coating for the top of this van. With a roof rack and a poptop the top sees some abuse. The coating has held up very well but I had a few "thin spots" where I ran out of the stuff the first time and didn't bother to add more until I knew it was the right choice.

This is one of those things I can easily hide with photography and most people would never notice since its above their heads. But, I know it's there and it should be done to the level it was expected to be in the pictures.
Untitled by Mōtum Magazine
  by Mōtum Magazine, on Flickr

Drying 

  by Mōtum Magazine, on Flickr


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

There were a few trim pieces that were never quite right on this build. The rear panel where the child seat teathers stick through was one of them. The donor being a 1993 did not have the hooks and the 2002 did. So there were no holes for them. 

When I originally cut the holes there were some mistakes and they looked like crap! I've been trying to find the proper panel with no luck. So instead I redid the panel with carpet to make it look much better!

Untitled by Mōtum Magazine, on Flickr


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Untitled by Mōtum Magazine, on Flickr


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

"Cars and Coffee" today. 

I had to wait until nearly everyone left to take a picture since there was almost always a gathering of people around the Eurovan.


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## Itsamoto (May 1, 2014)

Great picture inside -- the 3 window tent really makes it. If I ever replace my tent I will go for a 3 window version.

The table alone wasn't enough -- with the bunk bottom done it pulls it together nicely. I'm actually digg'n the wood grain more and more now. Sort of reversed woody wagon look. Cool.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Itsamoto said:


> Great picture inside -- the 3 window tent really makes it. If I ever replace my tent I will go for a 3 window version.
> 
> The table alone wasn't enough -- with the bunk bottom done it pulls it together nicely. I'm actually digg'n the wood grain more and more now. Sort of reversed woody wagon look. Cool.


I'm not normally a wood type of person. Give me titanium and carbon fiber and I'm happy:screwy:

That said, this is a "camper" and I felt like the drab all automotive grey plasticy interior needed a serious step up in quality. The wood really does transform the van in person. Even just the smell of real wood inside makes it feel so much cooler. 

If it was still mine and I had more time it would get an upgrade to the curtains and seats next. Along with some other custom touches to make it feel like a "special place" when you are inside it instead of the "sleeping in my car" feeling it gave stock.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

New axle shafts for both sides. 3 hours total with toddler help!


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Out with the new, in with the old! My shiny new cool 2002 Eurovan has left.......but Wednesday I fly out to pick up this rusty fendered, 234k mile 1999 Westy. How wants to buy the next one when I'm done?! (This one is starting out better than the last one;-)


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## jensenchase (Sep 10, 2013)

:thumbup: I like it!


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

jensenchase said:


> :thumbup: I like it!


It's going to need some serious love but I hope I can save it!:thumbdown:


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## Itsamoto (May 1, 2014)

Does this mean you have an extra pop top assembly for sale ?


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Itsamoto said:


> Does this mean you have an extra pop top assembly for sale ?


Sorta but not really. 

I'm either going to offer it up as a complete installed package or build another conversion with rear AC specifically to sell. I've actually made a deal on an MV that needs a transmission that would be a good candidate for this top.

The blue van will also probably get built and sold eventually. 

Being a stay at home dad right now I can work on these at home in my spare time.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I'm also considering using it as a mold to make a carbon fiber top!


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## Itsamoto (May 1, 2014)

Xtremjeepn said:


> I've actually made a deal on an MV that needs a transmission that would be a good candidate for this top.


Hmm... I think we now know who the Eurovan collector is. 

What does this make it now? 5 or 6 different Eurovans you've had/will have?

Let's count:

Black one (restored/sold)
Pop-Top Donor 1# scrapped
White van w/5spd (MIA?)
Pop-Top Donor #2 (scrapping now) 
Blue EVW

Are you saying there is a sixth van in the mix?


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Itsamoto said:


> Hmm... I think we now know who the Eurovan collector is.
> 
> What does this make it now? 5 or 6 different Eurovans you've had/will have?
> 
> ...


Thus the title of the thread:screwy:......


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## jets (Oct 12, 2005)

Xtremjeepn said:


> New axle shafts for both sides. 3 hours total with toddler help!


I love that picture. I have a couple of grandchildren & can really relate to the story behind the picture.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

jets said:


> I love that picture. I have a couple of grandchildren & can really relate to the story behind the picture.



One of my favorites too:laugh:


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

This very nice family said good bye to their 235k mile Eurovan. It's needs some restoration and love. Then hopefully it will be loved again by a new family.

I think I may build this one for us to use and put it up for sale along the way. Willing to sell at any point along the path.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I had to spend some time on the new van today to put real snow tires on it and sort out the quick and easy things. I will start its own thread when I have some time. 

These might look familiar as they are the snows off the black van. So the 15" tires and wheels are for sale off this van. (along with a whole host of stuff soon, like the rebuilt VR6, jump seats, etc)











Unfortunately when I picked the van up I discovered the passenger sun visor was broken. Fortunately I had 1 passenger sun visor laying around from the black van. I don't think anyone ever noticed that I used the "label free" 1993 sun visors in the 2002 van. 

These I had to take out some acetone and wipe the stupid warning label off. 




























Also took the Jump seats out and started steam cleaning the interior bits.


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## Itsamoto (May 1, 2014)

Right on -- the blue looks good. Looking forward to seeing you do another EV project. 

FWIW -- my EV has some rust issues happening on the front wheel well area as well -- so looking forward to seeing your approach on that.


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## swimrr (Jan 8, 2009)

*Mad Skills*

Cole, thanks for this thread and letting those of us who dream of being able to do this stuff enjoy your work.

I have to ask where you got your mad skills from? Do you have a mechanic background or are you just mechanically gifted?


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

swimrr said:


> Cole, thanks for this thread and letting those of us who dream of being able to do this stuff enjoy your work.
> 
> I have to ask where you got your mad skills from? Do you have a mechanic background or are you just mechanically gifted?


Ha! I just a guy who wanted a cool car and couldn't afford it! So I learned to fix them myself!:screwy:

No formal training  


Emissions passed! 










Another Audi weighted a leather sport wheel! Let the games begin!


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## Double0_Van (Jun 5, 2003)

Looks like you gave up automatic climate control with the new one. Bummer, unless you can retrofit it, of course.


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

mls64 said:


> Looks like you gave up automatic climate control with the new one. Bummer, unless you can retrofit it, of course.


New one is a pop-top which none have it. There is no rear A/C unit to control, so why retrofit Climatronic to only control 50% of what it could control?


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

mls64 said:


> Looks like you gave up automatic climate control with the new one. Bummer, unless you can retrofit it, of course.


For this reason alone I may sell off this van and buy an MV to convert to Poptop. :screwy:


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## Double0_Van (Jun 5, 2003)

Xtremjeepn said:


> For this reason alone I may sell off this van and buy an MV to convert to Poptop. :screwy:


Oh we think alike. 

Now about that 3.0TDI...


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## Double0_Van (Jun 5, 2003)

gti_matt said:


> New one is a pop-top which none have it. There is no rear A/C unit to control, so why retrofit Climatronic to only control 50% of what it could control?


I like to be able to set a temperature and let the automatic do the rest. With manual controls, I always seem to be fiddling with temp or fan speed.
But this is Cole's thread, so....
I'm sure he'll end up with the rear AC somehow someway.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I knew having the rear AC and the climate control was a big deal. I didn't reali how much until I spending some quality time in this Weekender. :laugh:

I loved my black van but for $36k it made sense to sell it and build another one or 12:screwy:

Since all the drivetrain on the black van was brand new it didn't make sense to do a TDI conversion on that one. 

I'd love to see some other cool custom stuff done now that I've had a taste of it! The custom wood interior bits made a HUGE difference inside the back van. Made it feel (and smell) more cozy, homelike, and like a nice place to be rather than being "inside the car"

I've got dozens of cool ideas and swap variations is love to do and maybe build for people.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I was on the REI website last night and this is a screenshot off the site. Notice the Eurovan Westy?!


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## Double0_Van (Jun 5, 2003)

Nothing gets past eagle-eye Cole!


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## mugen85r (May 11, 2003)

Can't wait to see the new build thread


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Either can I ;-)


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Eurovan Blu.O Thread :screwy:


http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7079958-Eurovan-Blu-O-(2-0)&p=86735446#post86735446


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

I thought some of you might be interested in a little update. 

First off, I enjoyed building this van so much and helping other to build theirs that I have started to formalize this a bit. I'm going to build custom vans or do custom mods for those that would like one built. Probably just one at a time right now. Here is a link to a Facebook page I've been toying with. Let me know what you think. 

https://www.facebook.com/Cavevans


I just talked to the owners of the black van. It's running great and they love it so much that it has been promoted to "daily driver" status. It was originally bought as an extra vehicle but they love it so much that they use it all the time. 

I kinda nick named the van after the fact. Around here it has become the "Night Fury" (aka Toothless). Named after the dragon in "How to train your dragons". I figured since its all black and was originally built for my newborn daughter that the name fit pretty well. That and she is now in love with dragons. 


The new family sent me a few pictures of their first trip to Moab in the van over Thanksgiving and gave me permission to share them.


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## Itsamoto (May 1, 2014)

Congrats and good luck on the new venture. You definitely seem like the right person to be doing this -- your thread is proof and gets tons views. :thumbup:

Looking forward to seeing more builds.


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## WannaCorrado (Apr 30, 2000)

You should consider expanding CaveVan to Instagram! awesome thread, a true inspiration for me, as I'm in the midst of re-building my Eurovan MV!


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

*Not sure this is what VW meant by &quot;Multivan&quot;.....*



WannaCorrado said:


> You should consider expanding CaveVan to Instagram! awesome thread, a true inspiration for me, as I'm in the midst of re-building my Eurovan MV!


Thanks for the tip/idea. I'll look into it. 


In related news, I'm almost finished with a new build for a client that you guys might be interested in.

It's a similar van to my "Blu.o" project. But a 2002 Eurovan MV that I've converted to a Poptop Weekender, added roof racks, new 3 window top, vinyl flooring. Color matched the seat bases, bed supports, curtain rods, upper bed frames, silver carbon fiber vinyl wrapped ceiling/bed boards, trans cooler, lift, etc. 

Couple of pictures from the van that will be finished tomorrow.


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## Lugboot (Sep 24, 2010)

Cole,

How did you remove the soft-touch on the interior plastics? I'd like to do this as well on my van.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Lugboot said:


> Cole,
> 
> How did you remove the soft-touch on the interior plastics? I'd like to do this as well on my van.


Hot soapy water and a credit card


----------



## Lugboot (Sep 24, 2010)

Well, that's pretty straightforward. Thanks!


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## linkindinkin (Nov 5, 2009)

What paint did you use on the top and the other interior bits? Two stage or single stage?


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

linkindinkin said:


> What paint did you use on the top and the other interior bits? Two stage or single stage?


Two stage. The high gloss clear really makes it stand out as the same paint that is on the outside of the vans.


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## albertr (Aug 9, 2014)

Xtremjeepn said:


> One of the issues I've been having is that various places(in the rest of the world but not the USA vans) refer to an alternator exciter circuit relay. They say it is in "Position 53" The positions labeled on schematics and under the relays themselves don't go as high as 53, the relays themselves are labeled "53". Look at the picture and you can see why this hasn't been helpful so far.:screwy:


I don't think there's an "alternator exciter circuit relay" in EuroVan. I think that schematic refers to some European model. I was looking at my 2001 EVC and I can see that alternator gets excited via blue wire from dashboard T32 connector (pin 12). There's a LED "battery" light with a resistor(s) in series inside the dashboard that seems to get power from pin 50 of ignition switch.

There's a type "53" relay located inside the center console under the radio, but that's "Park/Neutral Position (PNP) relay".

-albertr


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

albertr said:


> I don't think there's an "alternator exciter circuit relay" in EuroVan. I think that schematic refers to some European model. I was looking at my 2001 EVC and I can see that alternator gets excited via blue wire from dashboard T32 connector (pin 12). There's a LED "battery" light with a resistor(s) in series inside the dashboard that seems to get power from pin 50 of ignition switch.
> 
> There's a type "53" relay located inside the center console under the radio, but that's "Park/Neutral Position (PNP) relay".
> 
> -albertr



Yep. Figured that out eventually. 

And boy, was that awhile back! Last summer?


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## albertr (Aug 9, 2014)

Yeah, time flies fast. I just stumped upon this thread again while troubleshooting high output alternator replacement for EuroVan. Had to go thru the same troubleshooting procedures as you did.
Looks like I'm always two years behind your projects... 

-albertr


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## djnibler (Aug 5, 2005)

Hey Cole, are you re-using the existing plywood for the rear floor and adding the rubber to the top of it? Or are you cutting new ply wood? 

In either case, does the change cause any issues in rolling the rear seat/bed out? I notice that even if I have a very, very thin fabric on top of my OE carpet in the back, the bed doesn't want to roll over it so it seems very sensitive to additional thickness. I need to come up with something waterproof though because the wife keeps spilling large volumes of water back there (driving around with full dog water bowls) and it's starting to mold


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

djnibler said:


> Hey Cole, are you re-using the existing plywood for the rear floor and adding the rubber to the top of it? Or are you cutting new ply wood?
> 
> In either case, does the change cause any issues in rolling the rear seat/bed out? I notice that even if I have a very, very thin fabric on top of my OE carpet in the back, the bed doesn't want to roll over it so it seems very sensitive to additional thickness. I need to come up with something waterproof though because the wife keeps spilling large volumes of water back there (driving around with full dog water bowls) and it's starting to mold


You keep the stock plywood but remove the carpet on top of it. 

The bed rolls in and out easier with the vinyl flooring. 

Just shipped another floor to someone today.


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## djnibler (Aug 5, 2005)

Nice, thanks for the reply!


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## WannaCorrado (Apr 30, 2000)

Xtremjeepn said:


> Thanks for the tip/idea. I'll look into it.


Following you on instagram as LeftLaneCarsLLC!


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

WannaCorrado said:


> Following you on instagram as LeftLaneCarsLLC!


Sweet! (I'm still learning here :wave


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## djnibler (Aug 5, 2005)

Out of curiosity, what do you ask for enough of that flooring to do a van? I ask because I don't want to buy way more than I need from Home Depot. Storage is not a strong point at my current house with all the other projects I have going on.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

djnibler said:


> Out of curiosity, what do you ask for enough of that flooring to do a van? I ask because I don't want to buy way more than I need from Home Depot. Storage is not a strong point at my current house with all the other projects I have going on.


$250 shipped and its precut for the van.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)




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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)




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## VW_Enthu1 (Oct 23, 2004)

:beer::beer:


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## djnibler (Aug 5, 2005)

I like my '93, especially the manual transmission, but I do still wish I had a 6cyl for the extra power and smoothness as well as the updated looks. The engine mounting of the 5cyl is just awful. The engine feels like it's going to jump out of the van (and that's with all three brand new OEM mounts). The 5cyl fuel economy isn't better than the 6cyl enough to make up for the difference in power.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

VW_Enthu1 said:


> :beer::beer:





I'll let you come ride the KTMs


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

djnibler said:


> The engine mounting of the 5cyl is just awful. The engine feels like it's going to jump out of the van (and that's with all three brand new OEM mounts).


Grrrrr...agreed! Glad to know it's not just mine. I replaced all my mounts and it took care of vibrations and noise nicely but sometimes when the clutch engages, the drivetrain jerks with quite a thump. Idles nice and quiet and smooth but the mounts really are far too soft. Even under acceleration most vibrations are muted well despite the tractor-inspired engine sound. I would take a little less refinement though if it meant that the jerkiness could be eliminated from the engine mounting.



djnibler said:


> The 5cyl fuel economy isn't better than the 6cyl enough to make up for the difference in power.


Mine is a tad better than the VR6 on MPG but also bear in mind the 5-banger doesn't require premium fuel which softens the blow to the wallet.

The 5-cylinder models are slower, but only really from a standstill and maybe only on the worst of hills. I find the power to be "steady and reliable". Never abundant but it's almost always there somewhere. The torque curve is very good on the 5-banger and most of the 5-speed's gearing is good for general driveability and power except I find 1st gear too short (it's so short it's a liability to shift and lose momentum so soon after starting from a standstill) and 5th gear needs to be much taller for more efficient cruising on the highway. Gears 2, 3, and 4 are spaced well though and at those speeds where you'd be driving in those gears, I don't find it to be very deficient relative to the 12V VR6 auto.


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## djnibler (Aug 5, 2005)

I always get a thud when shifting from first into second. Trying to complete the 1-2 shift in such a way that it doesn't thud has become an active obsession every time I drive the van. Beyond that, even just doing things like going from acceleration to compression braking and then back to acceleration again causes a LOT of engine movement that transmits into jerkiness throughout the vehicle. What makes it worse is that mild "surging" I experience from the ECU/fuel/ignition systems. That engine management issue combined with the poor motor mount design compound each-other and make for a jerky ride. There are techniques I can use to try to mitigate it a bit but it's still there and very annoying.


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

djnibler said:


> I always get a thud when shifting from first into second. Trying to complete the 1-2 shift in such a way that it doesn't thud has become an active obsession every time I drive the van. Beyond that, even just doing things like going from acceleration to compression braking and then back to acceleration again causes a LOT of engine movement that transmits into jerkiness throughout the vehicle. What makes it worse is that mild "surging" I experience from the ECU/fuel/ignition systems. That engine management issue combined with the poor motor mount design compound each-other and make for a jerky ride. There are techniques I can use to try to mitigate it a bit but it's still there and very annoying.


The worst thud I get is from a standstill. All of the transitions from closed throttle to open throttle are very non-linear and abrupt. Cruising down a mild hilll at a constant speed (such that the demand on the engine is just barely off from closed throttle) results in very perceptible repetitive surging when the throttle is just barely being activated.

I've gotten to the point that I treat pedal motions for the accelerator and clutch as if there is an imaginary egg between my foot and pedal and the goal is to operate the pedals without crushing the egg.:banghead: I can get a fairly smooth drive out of it all but this is the first car I've had that required such deliberately careful pedal motions on my part. If anyone else drives the van, it feels like they're going to break all the motor mounts.

This is odd because I had a Mk2 Golf GTI 8V with Digifant and it was a great system, nice and smooth. I would expect Digifant in the T4 to be just as smooth and good, but it's not.


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## djnibler (Aug 5, 2005)

gti_matt said:


> Cruising down a mild hilll at a constant speed (such that the demand on the engine is just barely off from closed throttle) results in very perceptible repetitive surging when the throttle is just barely being activated.


That's exactly the issue I have but can't solve. I can feel it under acceleration too though. I'm having deja vu..... maybe we talked about this before. Anyway, I would love to find a solution for it but the only thing I've been able to do that makes the issue go away is disconnect the o2 sensor. Smooth as butter after that! But obviously that's not good on the cat or fuel economy so I just run with the o2 and deal with it.


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

I think we have discussed before about this, yep. For me, I replaced the throttle position sensor thinking that right near the closed position and just-off-closed that the voltage might be spiking funny and accounting for the jumpy throttle (rather than giving off a more smooth reading) but the new sensor didn't really help.


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## Alaskan_Euro (Jul 14, 2015)

*Xtremjeepn* - that sliding roof rack you have on the poptop, can you provide more details, please? Want to add on just like that to my T4, would save some searchin' time.... THANKS!!


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## my_vw_sucks (May 13, 2004)

Alaskan_Euro said:


> *Xtremjeepn* - that sliding roof rack you have on the poptop, can you provide more details, please? Want to add on just like that to my T4, would save some searchin' time.... THANKS!!












Yakima tracks.


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## Alaskan_Euro (Jul 14, 2015)

my_vw_sucks said:


> Yakima tracks.


_*THANKS!!*_ Thought they would be more exotic (READ: rare). Glad they are easily available. :laugh:


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Sorry, I was slacking on that! Glad someone picked up the slack!


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

UPDATE!!!

"Night Fury" will be up for sale soon!!!!!! That is the van that this entire thread was based on!! 

The owner has really enjoyed the van and done several long camping trips and had zero issues with it. But....they will be traveling overseas for the next few years and sadly must sell the van.


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## filmshoot (Jan 7, 2015)

What year is it.?

Inscribed with just two thumbs...


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

filmshoot said:


> What year is it.?
> 
> Inscribed with just two thumbs...


It's a 2002 GLS to Weekender Conversion. All the information is in this thread.......every painful little detail  New factory crate motor, etc.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Night Fury is HERE!! 


Ah.....so good to see this van again!!! Kathy had so many great stories of traveling with here family in the van. There were some unexpected changes for them and they are leaving the country to travel now. Which is why the van is for sale. She had a flawless two years and 10K miles with the van. :thumb:



Since this thread has all the details on the van, I'll not just rehash them. Just to summarize that this is probably as close as you will get to a mechanically new Eurovan on earth. Combined with all the great mods its simply an awesome van. I miss it and honestly wish I could buy it back myself. 

Asking price has been set at $36K. Which based on what I've built over the last two years, I can tell you is a very fair price for this van.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)




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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)




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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

Night Fury is about to move on to a new owner.

We are changing some things around on it. New premium flooring, a Yeti 400 with solar, Fiamma carry bike and a new rack in top.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

.....


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## WannaCorrado (Apr 30, 2000)

Xtremjeepn said:


> I read all these posts on various VW forums about how to get these off. Some said they could get it off with a screw driver....B.S!!
> 
> I went to the junk yard with a fairly well equipped bag of tools, including a bearing puller, gear puller etc. My bearing puller wouldn't grip onto the part, I even figured out that a wrench between the puller and the spine adapter would create the grip needed but the wrench would just grind into the soft metal adapter! Boo! I messed with the stupid thing on two cars for about 1.5 hours with no luck!! One of the cars someone else had obviously already tried to remove the spline adapter with no luck. They even tried drilling out the safety bolts to remove the whole column with no luck. I left the yard last night defeated by such a simple part.
> 
> ...


I just had to remove the adapter from my OWN van because I neglected to trim it down enough... I couldn't use the BFH method, so I figured out something that worked for me - where you had your wrench in the picture above, I clamped on some vice grips. then the 3 legged puller took it right off. but yes, there is NO WAY that adapter comes off with a screwdriver.

The adapter is NLA, so getting one is no longer that simple.


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## Xtremjeepn (Jan 9, 2005)

👍


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