# My 20V 1.8T AWP MKII GTI Swap



## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I started this thread to learn about how to do this swap and also document it so that others can learn from what I did and and hopefully avoid any mistakes I made. There are a lot of ways to do this swap, this is just how I thought it would work best based on my experience and tools that I had on hand. Let me say that I am not a mechanic. I call myself a parts changer and before doing this, I had never done any serious engine work. I researched how to do this by reading every thread I could find first and then I got a Bentley manual for each car. I would say that if I could do this by myself in my backyard with limited tools, that most anybody could if they researched , learned, and took their time doing it. Although the car is not finished, The engine swap has been completed and the car is on the road. These are some threads that I used to get this done and were a big help to me. I'd like to give a big thanks to the authors and all those that contributed:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?808137

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3881162

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3297891

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3442138

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?896084-1.8T-swap-into-mk3-GTI

http://myweb.whitman.syr.edu/srotblat/swap/

*1990 Volkswagen GTI*


















































































*Engine:*
20th AE GTI AWP 1.8T
Borg Warner KO4-001 Turbo
2.5in TT Turbo Back Exhaust
APR Performance Chip
APR R-1 Diverter Valve
New South Performance Intake Manifold Power Gasket
Eurojet Turbo Inlet Pipe
Eurojet Front Mount Intercooler Street Core
Eurojet Upper Charge Pipe
Gruvenparts Lightweight Crank Pulley
Gruvenparts Lightweight Power Steering Pulley
Gruvenparts Lightweight Tensioner Pulley
Gruvenparts Lightweight Alternator Pulley

*Transmission:*
5 Speed O2J Transmission
Peloquin Limited slip Differential
TDI 5th Gear
ECS Stage 1 Clutch
ECS 14lb Steel Flywheel
Verdict Motorsport Aluminum Bracket Bushings
OEM Audi TT Shift Linkage

*Suspension:*
Rokkor Coilovers
Neuspeed 25mm Front Sway Bar
Neuspeed 28mm Rear Sway Bar
Neuspeed 4 Point Rear Strut Bar
Eurosport Front Lower Stress bar
RSD Polished Front Strut Bar
Powerflex Front Subframe Mount Bushings
Powerflex Front Wishbone Front Bushings
Powerflex Front Wishbone Rear Bushings
Powerflex Power Steering Rack Bushings
Powerflex Rear Beam Bushings
Prothane Rear Engine Mount Poly Inserts
VF MK3 Front Motor Mount
VF MK3 Transmission Mount

*Wheels:*
Schmidt One Piece Modernlines
Front= 16X9 et25 Falken Ziex ZE-512 215/40ZR-16 XL 86W
Rear= 16X9 et30 17mm spacer Falken Ziex ZE-512 215/40ZR-16 XL 86W

*Brakes:*
Front:
Corrado Lucas 54 Calipers
11" OEM axially vented Rotors
Stainless Steel Lines
EBC Red Stuff Pads
Rear:
MK2 Rear Caliper Conversion
Zimmerman Drilled Rotors
Stainless Steel Lines
EBC Red Stuff Pads

*Interior:*
20th AE GTI Dash, Cluster, and Center Console
20th AE GTI Steering Wheel
20th AE GTI Shift Knob, Boot, and Parking Brake Cover
20th AE GTI Radio Cage w/ OEM Double Din Radio, Aluminum Trim, and Number Plate
New South Performance Indigo Boost Gauge w/ Offset Column Pod
New South Performance Indigo Oil Pressure and Temperature Gauge w/ Dual A-Pillar Pod 

*Exterior:*
Front and Rear Euro Small Bumpers
Dual Round Badgeless Grill
Clear Lights
Hella 550 Yellow Fog Lights

The Original Thread

I got a great deal on an 2003 20th Anniversary Edition GTI with an AWP 1.8T engine and an 02M 6 speed transmission except that it wasn't in the best of shape:








What is good is the engine, ecu, wiring harnesses,cluster, column, pedals, dash and keys. Everything I need to do a complete swap. I have an 87 16V Scirocco and I planned on putting the dash, cluster, even the stereo and AC into the interior of the Scirocco, and then drop the 1.8T 20V engine in the bay. It already has an APR flash on it too.








I then got a 90 GTI the other day for $500 to be a daily driver back-up while I swap the 20V into my Scirocco. 

















1990 MKII GTI with an ABA swap in it.
The good stuff:
Corrado Brakes 
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
FK Struts
H&R Springs
Techtonics catback
Nice interior
The bad:
Doesn't run due to a bad head
It has a MKIII 2.0 ABA swap so I have no clue what was done to it, or what needs to be done to make it run
Needs a New Grill and Front Bumper
No Rear Bumper
Minor body damage
Horrible black paint job that was sprayed over the red without any prep
I need two wheels to fit over the Corrado calipers
Bad head on the ABA
































After getting this car it just makes more sense to leave the Scirocco alone since it is running really great. Since the GTI isn't running and needs engine work, I'm just going to do the 20V swap with it. Working a couple of hours each day after work the last week I was able to get the engine out:
















Now it is time to start cleaning it up in there, shaving the bay, and getting it prepped for paint. Thankfully since I am in the desert, there really isn't any rust on it. The big dilemma I have now is that I really love the MKII GTI interior and I'm just not sure if I want to use the MKIV dash in it. If I dont use it, it will make the wiring more complicated, but I still plan on completely swapping the harness and using the cluster. I still need to sell my 02M to help finance this and get an 02J. Other than the transmission, I have most of what i need. I have never done anything like this, I don't know how to weld, and I have never torn down an engine before, but I have my Bentleys and the Vortex so I am always open to suggestions and advice. One thing I know that will really be a big help is i have a MKIV GLI sitting in the garage that I can always walk over and take a look at. 
Random pic at the end of the day:


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## Red_2 (Aug 22, 2003)

Have fun!


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Finally got the hardware to get the engine on the stand:








I cleaned it a little and got some things pulled from it so that I can start detailing it. I am going to get the the cover, fue rail, aluminum lines, and intake polished. I also got a powergasket for it. The Y pipe was split so I ordered a Eurojet PCV Hose Kit. Depending on my budget, I may do some other enhancements. I also found a G60 Corrado front cross member to withstand the added power:








Next I got the dash out and did some comparing:
























It looks like the height and length are close to the same, but the width on the MKIV dash is a lot wider. I am still not sure about doing the dash swap yet. I will need to use the MKIV cluster and I would need to modify the MK2 dash for it to fit so either way I will have to modify a dash. When i removed the dash, I pulled the wipers to make it easier to get to the nuts underneath the rain tray. Since I am going to be using the newer wiring harness, I checked to see if I could use the MKIV wipers in the MK2:








The MKIV wipers are too narrow to fit in the MK2, but the motors were a direct swap. This picture shows the newer motor installed. Using this motor will give me all of the functions of the MKIV wipers on the MK2. 
Next I got all of the wiring out and stripped the front out of the car:
















I also pulled the rack off and dropped in my MKIV steering to see if it would work:








It looks like the dimensions are the same, but the bolts to mount it to the sub frame don't match up. I would need to drill holes to make it work. I would still like to use it because i believe it would the swap go easier by being able to easily bolt on the MKIV column and power steering lines. I also got the bay cleaned a little more and I willl next be dropping the subframe to clean and refurbish:








I can't get that master cylinder off because the 11mm bolts are frozen and only one has come loose. I am thinking about removing all of the lines and then using the lines, master cylinder and ABS pump from the MKIV. I also bought a grinder and some stripping wheels so I am going to start stripping the paint from the bay and getting it all cleaned up before I get the motor in. I'm going to get some G60 pedals this week, but I still need to find an 02J trans. Hopefully I'll sell my six speed soon. My polished parts still aren't done for the engine so I did some detailing and polishing of my own:


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I got my polished parts finally and set them on the engine to see how it is going to look. i still need to polish the FPR and bolts that hold it all on. I also have a couple more metal lines that aren't on there yet that are polished:


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## 2020VT (Mar 18, 2008)

*Re: (Batrugger)*

Sweet parts are polished the swap is all done


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Yeah I wish


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## cleanA3 (Jun 23, 2007)

looking good


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## RABIDRABBIT1983 (May 13, 2003)

*Re: (cleanA3)*

You are a bad influence......................just started calling around for a 1.8T and a 2.0T FSI for my 83 GTI!
options options


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

*Re: (RABIDRABBIT1983)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RABIDRABBIT1983* »_You are a bad influence......................just started calling around for a 1.8T and a 2.0T FSI for my 83 GTI!
options options

Don't try and blame that on me














. You are going to need some custom mounts for that though. Search for J. Daniel to get some for it.


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## JohnK88GTI (Nov 13, 2007)

*Re: (Batrugger)*

yes i will have to say i think i am hooked too!!! 1.8T swap here i come! hahaha


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## dubvinci (Jan 22, 2007)

*Re: (JohnK88GTI)*

im about to do the same swap......getting my daily beater car 2moro so i can start taking my coupe apart.......i didnt think of the g60 front cross member so i might hunt for one of those........also do you know which front motor mount bracket to use with the g60 cross member??? my guess would be the o2a front mount bracket and mount......please someone chime in if they know....


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## $800rado (Jun 1, 2007)

*Re: (dubvinci)*

my 1.8 swap i used my stock trany mounts eveything stock all fit for me


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

*Re: ($800rado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *$800rado* »_my 1.8 swap i used my stock trany mounts eveything stock all fit for me

I meant for the MK1 GTI. the stock MK2 mounts will work, but the Corrado mounts are beefier. I haven't been able to touch the car awhile, but I have the day off tomorrow so hopefully I will get some work done. I do have the engine harness on now, but I won't be going much further without a transmission. I am going to start concentrating on getting the bay stripped and ready for paint.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I got to do a little work today. I got this:








And started in on the engine bay:








I want to get it all stripped down to the metal so I can fill a lot of the holes, smooth it out, and do a semi-shave on it. I have decided to paint the bay a light glossy grey and then in the future, the outside of the car will be done in German Feild Grey like this:








I also have the engine put back together:








I still need to get a hold of a 02J trans before I can start making the big progress.


_Modified by Batrugger at 5:16 PM 11-11-2009_


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Last night I was able to get the subframe off to clean, strip, paint, and rebuild with all new bushings. I got some more paint stripped and I got a friend who is going to help with some welding to smooth the bay as soon as I get it stripped. Once I get the bay stripped, smoothed, and primed, I can start putting in the wiring to see how it is all going to run. The engine is all together now and I found someone to trade transmissions with so things should start happening here soon. I also scored a set of G60 pedals to do the hydro clutch conversion. So far the weather has been kind to me since i am doing this outside, but it has started getting cold up here in the desert. I just wish it wasn't dark at 5 PM.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I have been doing a lot of grinding and stripping on the engine bay to get it ready to be smoothed and painted so nothing much there, but I did solve the problem of getting the MKIV AC lines to work with the MK2:
















I pulled the HVAC system from the MKIV and put in the MK2 and it was too easy. All it took was to drill two new holes where the AC lines go in the car and everything fit perfectly. It will also simplify using the MKIV harness.
I was thinking today about using the MKIV engine mounts with the front engine mount from the MK2 and not having a mount on the back to free up room for the turbo. I figured I could cut out this bracket from the MKIV:








and weld it onto the passenger side frame rail of the MK2. The driver's side would just need some holes for the bolts put into the frame rail for the mount. I t should be stable since the MKIV uses the two mounts plus a rear and nothing on the front. What do you guys think?
I still need to find a fabricator to modify the two steering racks, so if anyone in SoCal knows someone or could do it please let me know.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Today I got all of the brackets, bolts, and screws smoothed out of the bay. I also did some more stripping and am now at the point where my grinder and wire wheel isn't going to reach anymore. I need to research how to get the rest of the bay stripped short of getting it blasted.








I'm going to hit Harbor Freight to see what kind of attachments they have to use. Thanks to Shawn at German Performance in Riverside I was able to get a front cross member, front motor mount, and transmission mount from a VR6 B4 Passat to handle the extra torque:








I have a guy that is seriously wanting my six speed, so I may have a transmission soon. I'm crossing my fingers


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Got my stuff from the powder coater today. $60 for all of this:








Right now I am waiting for Powerflex bushings, Neuspeed sway bars, and an 11in brake setup from a Coraddo that consists of:
New OEM calipers
New OEM caliper carriers
New X-drilled rotors
New OEM brake pads
front spindle
wheel hub
wheels bearing
New brake lines
New ball joints
I am trying to sell a couple of things locally and if I do I will get the front and trans mounts from VF. I also traded my 6 speed finally so hopefully after the new year, I will have my transmission. Once I have that, I can get the engine in and figure out where everything needs to go. Unfortunately the car is outside and the gale force winds the other night must have blown the hood up and down all night long since there is no latch on it. It was the equivalent to it flying up while driving on the freeway. It won't close now and I will probably need to replace it.


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## koko5869 (Feb 15, 2006)

*Re: (Batrugger)*

subscribed
looks good http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
take a bungee cord and hook it up to the latch part of the hood, then run it down to a cinder block.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Thanks for that. My wife already figured that one out and hooked it up for me. I got a lot of my parts in and sent some more out to the powder coater. My trans is going to get here soon so hopefully I'll have some updates with a lot more progress soon.


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## Driftlover78 (May 13, 2005)

*Re: (Batrugger)*

subscribed

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


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## Verruckter_vw (Sep 27, 2004)

*Re: (Driftlover78)*

which front motor mount bracket are you going to be using?


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

The front cross member is from a 94 VR6 Passat. I am going to get the MK3 VF mount for it and the transmission.


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## Verruckter_vw (Sep 27, 2004)

*Re: (Batrugger)*

not the cross member. thats an obvious one!







what mk and model front bracket, the bracket that bolts to the motor/trans, are you using? ive test fitted a couple different ones to my 1.8t but havent found the right one


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Actually I was going to use the front bracket that was on the car, but I don't have my transmission yet to get it on and see if it works. It may actually be for a MK3 since the car had an ABA in it, but I don't really know. I was assuming it would work.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Got the part # and checked it out on VagCat. It is 191199273C and it is a mount for a 1.8 MK2


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

*Re: (Batrugger)*

Great job so far..... I really want to build a car


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## CaliCoupe (Aug 11, 2009)

totally subscribed to this hell yeah!


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Throughout the last couple of weeks, I have been gathering parts to get this done. Finally, except for a few bolts that I just couldn't bring myself to put back on the car because of rust and bad threads, i have finally got everything I need to reassemble the front lower subframe:








I have here
Sandblasted and powder coated front lower subframe
Sandblasted and powder coated front control arms with new powerflex bushings
New Eurosport lower tie bar
25mm Neuspeed front sway bar, stripped and painted with new hardware and bushings
NOS power steering rack with Powerflex bushing
Cleaned axle carriers and installed new hubs and bearings
New ball joints
New VF MK3 Transmission mount (enroute)
I also rebuilt and powder coated the Coraddo brake calipers with all new seals covers:








I am still waiting to get my transmission to get to the major under the hood work. I need to find a good welder to help me get the bay smoothed so that i can get it painted before putting all this stuff in there. I found some vintage VW colors and decided to do the bay this color:








and eventually the outside this color:


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## koko5869 (Feb 15, 2006)

*Re: (Batrugger)*

legit. i wish we had that kind of weather over here in pennsylvania. 
have a running tally of how much youve spent? or a budget in mind?
edit. sell every little of that mk4 you arent going to use. make some money back.


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## Murphy95 (Jul 18, 2008)

*FV-QR*

i wish i had the space and no snow to do something like this right now








lookin good so far! can't wait to see some more progress!


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Murphy95)*


_Quote, originally posted by *koko5869* »_legit. i wish we had that kind of weather over here in pennsylvania. 
have a running tally of how much youve spent? or a budget in mind?
edit. sell every little of that mk4 you arent going to use. make some money back. 


_Quote, originally posted by *Murphy95* »_i wish i had the space and no snow to do something like this right now








lookin good so far! can't wait to see some more progress!

I have a spreadsheet that I keep most everything on. It tracks what I have spent and what I have made back from sales. i have stripped almost everything from that car and about all that's left is the gas tank and lines.Right now I am just under $2K out of pocket. I have some BBS RC's and a roof rack I need to sell and it will help a lot. Unfortunately the water pump on my 1.8T GLI just went out, so I need to handle that. Because of this build, I know how to fix it and that will save me a lot of money. No snow here, but the weather has been sucking 60 mph winds and it has been in the 30's. Not good for working outside.


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## johnsomj (Feb 2, 2008)

*Re: (Batrugger)*

Hey I am doing similar build, an AEB into a '92 GTI, and I am running into the whole oil filter housing sticking right in the way of the motor mount. I got the ABA oil cooler but the top bolt of that housing is right where a current oil duct is and a little lower than the top bolt of the stock housing, did you have that problem or did I just get the wrong part... This is really frustrating because I'm finally done building the engine and now I can't drop it in!














Anyone, any thoughts?


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I'm not there yet, so I don't know if this is going to be a problem. I have the the bracket from the MKIV passenger side mount that I am going to use so if I get that to work, I won't need a front mount if it gets in the way.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I finally got the subframe assembled:








The new VF trans mount arrived. I cleaned and painted the centers of the rotors and put them on the new hubs. I got the powder coated calipers assembled and ready to go. My non-ABS bracket arrived and I have a guy that is going to do the fabrication of the DBW pedal bracket on the Coraddo pedals. I need to get new brake and clutch master cylinders too. The O2J trans is going to be shipped out to me next week. I can't afford the clutch, flywheel, and LSD for it yet, but I am going to bolt it up to the engine so I can figure out where everything is going to go. I guess this means that I need to get serious about the bay. I really want to smooth it, but I don't weld, and really don't want to pay for the welding.


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## koko5869 (Feb 15, 2006)

*Re: (Batrugger)*

3m 8115 panel bond? 
if spitfire trusts it, so i do. dont believe hes had any problems.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4171221


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Looks like a great alternative. I will need to investigate further.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I am curious about axles. I see people in previous build threads say to use Scirocco 16V axles, but I have never seen why. Are they different lengths than the MK2 axles. Will standard MK2 axles work?


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I have a question about the clutch master cylinder. I am using pedals from a G60 Corrado so I had planned on getting the master cylinder from a Corrado. I just got my O2J finally and i was looking at the line and was wondering if the MKIV line will connect to the Corrado master cylinder and if not how can I make it work? The other option is I have the MKIV master cylinder, but it does not have the looped end to connect to the G60 pedals. Is there a way to make it work with those pedals?


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## dubvinci (Jan 22, 2007)

*Re: (Batrugger)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Batrugger* »_I just got my O2J finally and i was looking at the line and was wondering if the MKIV line will connect to the Corrado master cylinder and if not how can I make it work? The other option is I have the MKIV master cylinder, but it does not have the looped end to connect to the G60 pedals. Is there a way to make it work with those pedals?


you can use the line and slave from the rado as well........the o2a and o2j trannys are the same in the mounting of the slave.......


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Ok cool, thanks for that.


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (Batrugger)*

this looks like a great build http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

*Re: (35i 2000)*

Thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Got my O2J transmission Tuesday and even though I don't have a clutch or flywheel, I went ahead and got it bolted onto the engine. 








Here is a shot of the front and driver's side mounts installed:








I am going to go ahead and drop it into the bay to see if everything fits. I am also going to start running the wires and figure out where all of the accessory brackets need to be installed. 
I am going to pick up the front cross member this weekend since it is having the Powerflex bushings pressed into it. I also got the VF front motor mount for it. Here's the front subframe on:
















So far I have the non-ABS bracket and brake booster painted and together, 








I have a Corrado 22mm brake master cylinder on the way, the pedals will be ready next week, and I am getting a clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, and line from a Corrado to get the hydro clutch worked out. Once I work out where everthing goes, I'll pull it all out again except for the lower subframe so it can be towed, and I'll get the bay smoothed and painted. 
I was referred to a local guy here that lives down the street because I was looking for a someone that could do some welding. He came out to the house yesterday to check out the project and rolled up in a 51 Cadillac with a chopped top riding on bags. Turns out he has a shop called Leet Auto Design and has been building custom cars for almost 20 years. He said he didn't know what to expect when I told him I was working on a GTI, but after coming over and checking it out, he was pretty impressed and said I was doing things the right way. He is going to work with me to smooth and paint the bay, graft the steering columns together, get the dash fitted so it is done right using the metal dash support from the donor car, and get the shifter mounted. He said it would be cool to work on his first VW. 




_Modified by Batrugger at 1:26 PM 1-10-2010_


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## quickhuh (Aug 16, 2004)

*Re: (Batrugger)*

dam a bagged caddy. car looks clean, i am watching this, this is the same thing i want to do with my car to


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Yesterday I picked up my clutch master and slave cylinder and the line to connect them so I have all I need to connect the clutch to the pedals. I picked up the front crossmember after it had the new bushings pressed in and then installed the VF mount into it. 








I got home after dark, but I went ahead and dropped the engine in. This morning I was able to get everything lined up and get some pics:
















Front Mount:








Trans Mount:








Everything lined up pretty well. I had to coax the trans mount to line up with a cheater bar, but it was nothing major. I was going to use the MKIV mount on the passenger side to eliminate the rear mount, but it looks like there is not enough room between the engine and frame rail so I'll see if it can be modified later. Unfortunately the SAI pump just barely hits the front crossmember so I am going to have to find a way to make it fit as well.


_Modified by Batrugger at 8:12 PM 1-10-2010_


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## nitec (Jan 31, 2006)

very nice clean work...
why not just toss the SAI? perform saVWko's engine bay clean up - plenty of useless "****" in there....I ran without SAI through canadian winter and had 0 issues...in fact my car ran much better IMO...
keep up the good work..


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Thanks for that and I totally agree with you about all of the useless crap, not to mention it will clean things up in there. I would love to do that, but since I am in California, the car has to go through an inspection at a Smog Certification Referee Station where the only thing they are checking for is if it is a newer engine and all of the original emission equipment is on it. I'm not even sure if I will pass with an intake or front mount yet.


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## veedubbinn (Jan 25, 2009)

*Re: (Batrugger)*

looks good


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## koko5869 (Feb 15, 2006)

*Re: (Batrugger)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Batrugger* »_Thanks for that and I totally agree with you about all of the useless crap, not to mention it will clean things up in there. I would love to do that, but since I am in California, the car has to go through an inspection at a Smog Certification Referee Station where the only thing they are checking for is if it is a newer engine and all of the original emission equipment is on it. I'm not even sure if I will pass with an intake or front mount yet. 

thats rough. im on the opposite coast and hear nothing but horror stories about the smog checks and such. 
do they physically have to see it? or can there just not be a light for it?
plenty of software thatll code it out without a cel, but if it physically has to be seen, thats rough.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Yeah, they get in there with mirrors and look for everything. The sad part of it is is that we have no required safety inspections here so you could go in to a smog inspection with suspension pieces falling off or missing and they wouldn't care. It is okay to drive down the freeway and lose an axle as long as your not polluting.


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## minimyke (Feb 25, 2008)

I'm glad that deal with ken is gonna work for ya, he does awesome work. I need to do this on my mkII..dammit


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Yeah, you told me he could weld, but I had no idea what he could do. I got some axles last night from a 16V Scirocco and they are OE German. I also have the correct flanges on the way so I should be able to get this on the ground soon.



_Modified by Batrugger at 4:20 PM 1-12-2010_


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## Verruckter_vw (Sep 27, 2004)

*Re: (Batrugger)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Batrugger* »_
Front Mount:










you are going to need to get the right front motor mount bracket!! the one you have and the corresponding part number you gave me on page one, are incorrect for this motor build!
cant you see that the bracket is about an inch too narrow, has no stabilizer conection point to tie the transmission into the front motor mount bracket... and the way the bracket sits on the front mount is not correct either. only 1/4 of the actual bracket seems to make contact with the vf mount! 
you are going to need the passat 2.0 16v front motor bracket!


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Cool thanks for that. This is why I post all of this here. I'll try to see if i can find one on here. In the picture, it has not been torqued down which is why it looks so loose


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## Verruckter_vw (Sep 27, 2004)

*Re: (Batrugger)*

I have been able to find the brackets at the junk yard for like 10 bux... a brand new one from the dealer is 130 or something? the part number i have for the proper bracket is... 357 199 273a 
here is another link for a little cheaper than the stealership! http://www.worldimpex.com/sear...&y=10


----------



## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Thanks. I looked it up on VagCat and it also came on the 1.8/2.0 Corrado


----------



## Jeffrey B (Jan 31, 2000)

*Re: (Batrugger)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Batrugger* »_Thanks. I looked it up on VagCat and it also came on the 1.8/2.0 Corrado

Actually the motor mount bracket you need is from a B4 passat 2.0L or 1.9TDI. You need to match up the bracket to the mount. the Crossmember you are using uses a VR/MK3 style mount, and the bracket needs to match. The bracket you have is for a Corrado/MK2 style mount. The corrado/MK2 mounts sit at an angle on the crossmember, and the VR/MK3 mount sit flat in the crossmember. 
You can see the mismatch between mount angle/bracket angle in your picture.


----------



## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Well I already have the other one on the way, so I'll see how it looks on there.


----------



## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Not a whole lot to report on. We had almost two weeks of solid rain which forced me to move it into the garage since it has a lot of bare metal and an open rain tray. I didn't want it to get rusted and flooded. I have also been installing Corrado front brakes, stainless steel brake lines all around, new rear rotors, new bearings, and poly bushings on my Scirocco so that has been taking up a lot of my free time. I did have some hoses made for the power steering using the ends from the MK2 hoses:








These will allow me to connect the MKIV power steering pump to the MK2 rack:
























I also got some more parts in:
ECS Stage 1 Clutch Kit:








and a used Eurojet upper intercooler pipe with a diverter valve hose. The pipe was cheap and it will save me a lot of fabrication time.
I am at the point now where the car needs to go in to have the bay done. Fortunately I am going to get a tax return for a change, but we have a big MINI meet coming up in Vegas and I really want to get some baller wheels (Schmidt TH Lines) for the wife's car so I may have to back off until April after the show. My goal for the GTI is to drive it to Wustefest this summer.


----------



## Red_2 (Aug 22, 2003)

Shiny!! Good job!


----------



## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Got it on some rollers:
















It was loaded up and trailered away today to have the engine bay smoothed and painted. While it is gone, I will get the clutch and flywheel in.


----------



## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I went and visited it today. They already have all of the holes filled and the plates made for the rails. Most of it is already smoothed, I have to drop a couple of things off there tomorrow so I will get some pics of the progress. It should be painted next week and Once that is done, I can get the engine in and really start making progress.


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

*Re: (Batrugger)*

What is it they are exactly doing to make it smooth?
I really like watching this build, it is something that I would really like to do.








keep it com'n


----------



## Jeffrey B (Jan 31, 2000)

*Re: (Batrugger)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Batrugger* »_I am curious about axles. I see people in previous build threads say to use Scirocco 16V axles, but I have never seen why. Are they different lengths than the MK2 axles. Will standard MK2 axles work?

The correct axles for the swap are MK2 100mm axles. The driver's side MK2 axle is the same as Scirocco 16v. The passenger side MK2 axle is longer than a Scirocco 16v axle. 
I'm not saying that the Scirocco 16v axles wont bolt in, but the PS will not be the correct length. The Scirocco axles would be correct for a MK1 1.8T swap.


----------



## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

*Re: (Jeffrey B)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GTijoejoe* »_What is it they are exactly doing to make it smooth?
I really like watching this build, it is something that I would really like to do.








keep it com'n

I honestly don't know. This guy has been doing customs for years so I just left in his hands. I need to go over there tomorrow so I will try to get some pictures of what is happening and some of the cars around his shop.

_Quote, originally posted by *Jeffrey B* »_
The correct axles for the swap are MK2 100mm axles. The driver's side MK2 axle is the same as Scirocco 16v. The passenger side MK2 axle is longer than a Scirocco 16v axle. 
I'm not saying that the Scirocco 16v axles wont bolt in, but the PS will not be the correct length. The Scirocco axles would be correct for a MK1 1.8T swap.

Thanks for that. If I have to get a set of axles then it won't be a big deal since I need them for my 16V Scirocco. I have a torn outer passenger boot.


----------



## Project 88 (Jun 29, 2005)

*Re: (Batrugger)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Batrugger* »_
I honestly don't know. This guy has been doing customs for years so I just left in his hands. I need to go over there tomorrow so I will try to get some pictures of what is happening and some of the cars around his shop.

A good writeup and some pics of the engine bay "smoothing" will be a great help to me when I get to dropping in my 16vg60. Nice work btw. It's nice to see someone else do alot of thier own work.


----------



## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

*Re: (Project 88)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Project 88* »_
A good writeup and some pics of the engine bay "smoothing" will be a great help to me when I get to dropping in my 16vg60. Nice work btw. It's nice to see someone else do alot of thier own work.

I tried to get some, but he moved too fast for me and this isn't work that I want to do because I want it to be right







. Yesterday I was finally able to go by the painter and he had made some great progress. Here is a crappy cell phone pic since I was without a camera:








Also I found out yesterday that I needed to give up the engine hoist I was borrowing this weekend. The bay is now painted and cleared and should be back tomorrow. I got the new clutch and flywheel in today, so I should be able to drop the engine in tomorrow and hopefully I won't need the hoist again. Unfortunately due to escalating costs, I am going to put aside a couple of things mainly an LSD.


----------



## quickhuh (Aug 16, 2004)

*Re: (Batrugger)*

bay looks great, as long as you have the motor in, if you have to lift it or anything you can at least use a floor jack to move it around a little bit. 

progress is looking good







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

*Re: (quickhuh)*

Sweet.... looks good.


----------



## El Groso (May 29, 2008)

Any progress with this?? come on, Im subscribed and I want news !!


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Got it back on Monday all painted, but there are some things that need to be touched up so I hadn't taken pics yet. I'll put some up tomorrow to show the good and the bad.


_Modified by Batrugger at 2:39 PM 3-19-2010_


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I got the car back on Monday and here is how it looks:








The panels are in and all of the unnecessary holes are filled. Some of the cool things that were done are since I am not shaving the bay, I made a template of the hole for the lower harness and I had him add these two cutouts for the MKIV harness. The small hole behind the tower will be filled too:
























Here are the brackets for the MKIV coolant bottle welded in:
















I cut the harness bracket out of the MKIV and had that welded into the rain train so it will fit toght and not leak:
















Here it is with the harness run:








Some of the bad is the color is lighter than I intended. I was wanting more of a sandy beige color, but I picked it out so that is on me. It will still work with the color for the rest of the car. Some things that need to be fixed:
Shock towers need to be filled and smoothed as well as the bracket for the coolant bottle:
















He made this cutout for the relays and it was good idea, but the wires are too short to run to it from the plastic wire cover and it is in a real obvious place and looks bad so it will be filled:
















This area back here needs to sealed and smoothed and the panel edges will be smothed too:
























I really wanted to start putting parts on, but it does need to go back for the fixes and he said it was no problem so it will probably be delayed another week. Our big Vegas MINI show is coming up in a month, so I need to divert resources there for the time being. The MINI is almost done with a full respray, new glass, headlights, and trim (sand damge claim) and we got some new Schmidt TH-Lines for it so I am feeling the economic pinch (Got to love the tax return). Should be cool though since I have never seen a MINI with them before. I have all of the big parts to finish the swap except for the intercooler and piping so once it is back and done I should be able to get it running pretty quickly.



_Modified by Batrugger at 2:27 PM 2-25-2010_


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

*Re: (Batrugger)*

wow, using an MKIV harness seal and cutting it out of the MKIII body is amazing. That is something I would do, most respect http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

*Re: (GTijoejoe)*

Thanks


----------



## motorlager (Sep 26, 2005)

*Re: (Batrugger)*

Very nice work!


----------



## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

*Re: (motorlager)*


_Quote, originally posted by *motorlager* »_Very nice work! 
 Thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I put new Schmidts on our MINI:








which meant I had these to put on the GTI:








So I could pull the wheels off of the GTI to trade in plus $150 for these:








I was going to put the RZs on the GTI, but I think I will leave the Remembers on it for now since they fit pretty well. I am going to just use the RZs on my Scirocco instead for now.


----------



## minimyke (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (Batrugger)*

that worked out well for ya ey wes? Wife got wheels, you got wheels and the long lost 'rocco even got new shoes http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## yip (Jul 14, 2003)

*Re: (Batrugger)*

Wow..... really nice! Looking forward to seeing it when it's finished!


----------



## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

*Re: (minimyke)*


_Quote, originally posted by *minimyke* »_that worked out well for ya ey wes? Wife got wheels, you got wheels and the long lost 'rocco even got new shoes http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

I might even put the RAs on my kids 87 GLI. He has 15 in Enkies and I can use the tires off of them for the RZs. 

_Quote, originally posted by *yip* »_Wow..... really nice! Looking forward to seeing it when it's finished!

Thanks, and thanks for the good deal on the rims.


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## minimyke (Feb 25, 2008)

you know you just wana sell me the ra's


----------



## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

*Re: (minimyke)*


_Quote, originally posted by *minimyke* »_you know you just wana sell me the ra's









Actually I could use the money, but they are pretty beat and one of them is different than the others. I might just trade with my son and use his tires and then sell his Enkies.
I see after searching that the MK3 tank will swap into a MK2, but has anyone tried to fit a MKIV tank. I would like to use the one I have in my donor car to go along with the engine and harness. If it will fit, then all of the fuel lines and wiring will plug right in with the harness and engine.


----------



## veedubbinn (Jan 25, 2009)

*Re: (Batrugger)*

post more pics, i look at this thread everyday can't wait to see it done







straight teaser http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif good job on the build coming along great


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

*Re: (veedubbinn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *veedubbinn* »_post more pics, i look at this thread everyday can't wait to see it done







straight teaser http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif good job on the build coming along great

Thanks I appreciate the encouragement. It goes back to the painter on Monday to fix the little flaws in the bay. After that is done, I will start making some new progress. Right I have to change my focus to the MINI for a little while, but I have vacation starting March 22nd so i should have some time to get things done.


----------



## El Groso (May 29, 2008)

Quick Q, doesnt the eurosport tie bar get in the way? how is it clearance wise? someone else in a similar build had to take it off..


----------



## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

*Re: (El Groso)*


_Quote, originally posted by *El Groso* »_Quick Q, doesnt the eurosport tie bar get in the way? how is it clearance wise? someone else in a similar build had to take it off..
 I didn't have any problem with it on the test fit..


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

It's finally back and looks great:
























I already bolted the front subframe and brake booster on. The green tape is because the two hook was painted the same as the engine bay and I stripped it and am painting with some Eastwood chassis black. It is primed now, and tomorrow I'll get it finished. I should be able to drop the engine in and start getting everything installed. I also got my pedals back:
































It looks like they angle and height is right, but I need to get them in with a seat and see how they feel. i should get the shifter soon too.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I didn't get much time to work yesterday and I have to work this whole weekend, but yesterday I was able to go through the sub frame and front cross member with my Bentley and a torque wrench and get everything torqued to spec. i also found a cool polishing shop so I had some more things polished:
















I also dropped off the trans mount bracket and the clutch slave cylinder. This stuff gets addictive though because now i want to do the whole transmission.


_Modified by Batrugger at 10:34 PM 3-19-2010_


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## G-radoT (May 20, 2006)

*Re: (Verruckter_vw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Verruckter_vw* »_
you are going to need to get the right front motor mount bracket!! the one you have and the corresponding part number you gave me on page one, are incorrect for this motor build!
cant you see that the bracket is about an inch too narrow, has no stabilizer conection point to tie the transmission into the front motor mount bracket... and the way the bracket sits on the front mount is not correct either. only 1/4 of the actual bracket seems to make contact with the vf mount! 
you are going to need the passat 2.0 16v front motor bracket!

I have just run into the same issue with the front motor bracket in a VR6 Corrado using the VR6 front cross member. The part number we ended up using that fit was: 1H0 199 273B.
My question is what starter bolts are being used? The N-905-729-01 bolt fits in length and threads up fine however is thinner in diameter than the trans and starter I am using from a MKIV. I have heard some people have been shimming the bolts, other using a MKIV diameter (M12?) but same length as the above and then drilling and tapping as needed.


----------



## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

*Re: (G-radoT)*

I went to a local nuts and bolts store and got bolts that fit right. I just brought in one with the right thread and told him how long and what grade I needed.


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## G-radoT (May 20, 2006)

*Re: (Batrugger)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Batrugger* »_I went to a local nuts and bolts store and got bolts that fit right. I just brought in one with the right thread and told him how long and what grade I needed. 

I am missing something here:
I have bolts that are the correct length and thread right in. The issue is that the starter hole diameter, and trans are an M12 (MKIV) and the bracket is an M10 (MKIII/Rado) How did you get rid of the play between the bolt and the trans/starter? 
(What trans and starter is being used inyour vehicle?)


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

your not missing anything. Others have installed them with the play and have had no issues, so that is what i am doing too. From what i have rad on here, you should be ok


----------



## G-radoT (May 20, 2006)

*Re: (Batrugger)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Batrugger* »_your not missing anything. Others have installed them with the play and have had no issues, so that is what i am doing too. From what i have rad on here, you should be ok

Ahhh I see...
So if I am anal and want to get rid of the play in the front bracket, I could just get a sleeve made that would slide over the non-threaded portion of the bolt. Excellent, thanks for the help.










_Modified by G-radoT at 5:51 PM 3-25-2010_


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## SG85GTI (Jun 2, 2007)

*Re: (G-radoT)*

NICE!
I picked up that mk2 with my brother in law long time ago, good to see it being put to good use now








I've been planning an aeb swap corrado dash into my mk2, but dont have time untill the summer.
looks very very good so far man im definitley subscribed 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Thanks. have been tied up working on the MINI this week since it is going to a show in Vegas, but I will get back to this next week.


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## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

*Re: (Batrugger)*

This build is pretty suave.


----------



## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

*Re: (Batrugger)*

Thanks, The gas pedal was too high so it had to be moved down. I didn't account for the fact that the pedals would be lower after they were connected to the brake and clutch master cylinders. I am going to get a newly rebuilt trans with a TDI 5th gear and Peloquin LSD in it in a couple of weeks so the engine is still not in. I have just been trying to get all of the wiring run. I also got the MKIV HVAC installed. I need to update this with some pics soon.


_Modified by Batrugger at 11:43 AM 4-8-2010_


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## Verruckter_vw (Sep 27, 2004)

*Re: (Batrugger)*

haven't checked on this tread for a while... its been kind of hanging out at the bottom of my watched topics.. but when i opened it up and saw the progress made...







great job!!! a work of art/masterpiece is no quick and easy task!! feel free to take your time between updates, if that means you keep on turning out some quality work!!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

*Re: (Verruckter_vw)*








Wow, thanks for the compliment. I keep going back and forth between just slamming it all together to get it running and then detailing everything







. I just tell myself that i don't want to ever take it apart again so it keeps me in check.


----------



## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

*Re: (Batrugger)*

Here is some of what I have been up to:
I installed the MKIV horns so they just plug into the harness:








Here is the lower wiring harness mounted in the same location as the MKIV using the same mount. I made a template and cut it out and it fits great and will be waterproof








Here you can see the MKIV HVAC mounted:








I messed up and had the painter fill the wrong hole and I also cut the lower post off because I thought it wasn't needed to secure it. Fortunately it is still secured tightly and the hole will be covered by the heat shield. This allows me to run the AC compressor from the MKIV engine, the coolant lines for the heater core, and it is all plug and play with the wiring and dash.
I added some poly inserts to the rear mount so now all of the motor mounts are upgraded:








Here's some close-ups of the polished bits:








I ordered a new rain tray yesterday to cover up all of the wiring and ECU. Here is how it all looks now:
















I still need to ground a few wires in there and Here are the wipers installed. I swapped the motor from the MKIV into it so it is plug and play with the harness and will have all of the settings that the MKIV had:








I was getting ready to work on the car today and realized that I hadn't taken care of the new paint in the bay. I pulled everything out that wasn't bolted on and washed, clay barred, hand polished, and waxed it. I am going to buff out the wax tomorrow, but I buffed it off of the firewall and got the MKIV heat shield installed:








It is ugly, but with the turbo there it is necessary. Tomorrow I am going to get inside and start working on the dash and wiring. I still have that steering column to do as well. For the engine, I ordered a set of the Gruvenparts pullies and I have been talking to Eurojet to get a street core, TIP, DV, and coupler to run my upper tube. Once I get the engine in, I'll figure out what to do about the rest of the piping.


_Modified by Batrugger at 11:21 AM 4-12-2010_


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I buffed up the bay so now it is ready for everything to go back in. I used Prima Mystique to wash, claybarred it all, hand polished it with Prima Finish, and applied Prima Epic which I let sit overnight. Here is the result:
























Not much else to look at. I am trying to get all of the wiring run.


----------



## VRT (Dec 8, 2001)

*Re: (Batrugger)*

great work- I really like the bay detail


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Thanks, I got my EBC Redstuff pads today so I put the brakes on:
























I still need to order some stainless steel lines and hit the junkyard for new hard lines since they were frozen on and I had to cut them to get them off. I also decided that I needed to stop putting the dash off so I got started on that today:








I only got the template done before my light ran out. I'll try and take lot's of pics of this since I haven't found a MKIV dash swap DIY anywhere. From pictures of swaps I have seen, it looks like the window cranks are not practicle and since i am using the whole MKIV harness, I ordered a set of Spal window regulators and I also got a used sunrof motor from the classifieds to make everything power in the interior. I also ordered the last of th engine goodies that I needed:
Eurojet Turbo Inlet Pipe








Eurojet Frag Grenade Diverter Valve








and I am also getting one of their street intercooler cores and a complete Gruvenparts pully set:


----------



## quickhuh (Aug 16, 2004)

*Re: (Batrugger)*

even though i am almost done stripping my mk2 i am loving this build


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

*FV-QR*

nice job so far!....


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I got a new ABS rain tray from the dealer yesterday. If you have an old rain tray, get this part, it is well worth it. Of course my rain tray has been modified, so I had to do some cutting on this brand new part in order for it to fit:
















This really cleans things up. I am going to spray the exposed areas with bed liner and once I get the weather stripping on it is going to look really clean up there. I did some hacking on the dash too, but my Dremel brushes died. The pulleys also got here so I will try and get them on the engine tomorrow.


_Modified by Batrugger at 9:05 AM 4-15-2010_


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## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

*Re: (Batrugger)*

Attention to detail http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## rawk (Jul 29, 2000)

*FV-QR*

looking good man!


----------



## torquesteer (Jul 26, 2008)

*Re: (RipCity Euros)*

very nice project, keep up the good work!!!


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

*Re: (Batrugger)*

wow that does look good... who much was that rain tray????


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

*Re: (GTijoejoe)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GTijoejoe* »_wow that does look good... who much was that rain tray????









It will run you around $100 for both parts


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

*Re: (Batrugger)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Batrugger* »_
It will run you around $100 for both parts


----------



## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Last week I got my Gruven pulleys in the mail and after putting them on and seeing that billet aluminum next to the dull alternator and tensioner, I decided that some more polishing needed to be done. They were finished today and here is how they turned out:
























After this I still need to get the transmission polished. I am going to definitely swap it for a newly rebuilt one with a Peloquin diff and TDI 5th gear. I just need to get it all coordinated with the guy.


_Modified by Batrugger at 4:57 PM 4-22-2010_


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## koko5869 (Feb 15, 2006)

i wish i had the time and money.








you sir are doing an awesome job. 
love the attention to detail.


----------



## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

*Re: (koko5869)*


_Quote, originally posted by *koko5869* »_i wish i had the time and money.








you sir are doing an awesome job. 
love the attention to detail. 

Thanks, just do a little bit at a time and it doesn't hurt you too badly on time and money. I am trying to get my wiring worked out now. Sincwe I am going to use the complet MKIV harness, I need to know if VAGcom can disable some things. I will be using the ABS, wheel speed sensors, or airbags so i need to know if the functions for these can be disabled. Also I am converting all the windows, sunroof, mirrors, and locks to electric so that it can all be wired to the harness and work with the key remote. Does anyone know if I can get the alarm to work as well?


----------



## koko5869 (Feb 15, 2006)

*Re: (Batrugger)*

i just picked up a mk4 gti that had a little meeting with another car. 
its auto unfortunately, but i figured id just swap here and there to eventually get what i need. 
i know some guys get rid of abs when doing a shaved bay. im not sure if they can code it out (since no mk4s came with manual brakes) or if they just pull the fuse for it. 
if the car has esp, then its going to cut the traction control too.


----------



## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I know APR can remove components from the ECU. I will have to see how it goes. I have mostly been doing a lot of things that aren't too visible. I added power windows and mirrors, installed a motor for the sunroof, gutted the interior and am now trying to figure out how to sort out all of the wiring. I also got some things back from powder coating:
Headlight and radiator supports








Also a fan shroud from a Corrado that I had modified:








The Corrado radiator has the inlet and outlets on the same side as the MKIV do it will make running the hoses a lot easier. I removed the Corrado belt driven secondary fan and with a little cutting and welding on the fan shroud, I was able to mount the relay controlled secondary fan from the MKIV. It is thicker than the Corrado fan, so I had to space it on the one side so it would clear the radiator. I will wire the pigtails from the primary fan and temp sensor into the MKIV harness and it should function just like it did on the GTI:








The great news is that I got a freshly re-built trans with a Peloquin LSD in it. Unfortunately my flanges aren't fitting on it for some reason. These are how they look when they are torqued all of the way down:
















I tipped it up to see if they would seal and fluid poured out. I tried putting in the old flanges and the same thing happened. Does anybody have any ideas about this? These flanges were in the trans that I swapped for the new one and I installed the flanges that were on this trans onto my old one.



_Modified by Batrugger at 8:33 PM 5-3-2010_


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I swapped transmissions and took it into the polisher and was quoted $425 to polish the whole thing. Not a bad price, but it was too far out of what I could afford, so I decided to just go ahead and get it together. I did have him polish the starter. I also got my Eurojet turbo inlet pipe and diverter valve. When I went to pick up the starter, I brought in the diverter valve and he polished it while I waited. I came home and got those installed. Finally the engine is together and ready to go in:




























I had to notch the front crossmember to allow the SAI pump to fit, but my fabricator said it was good and he would reinforce it for me. Here it is finally siting in the bay for a test fit:





































I really needed to get this engine in, because I was getting frustrated and losing focus. I still need to pull it out again to reinforce the front cross member and torque it all to spec. I got some welding cable to move the battery to the rear. I have also moved the fuse box on top of the battery inside the car. Unfortunately the DIY for relocating the MKIV battery that I was using was lost after the vVortex move so I am going to be winging it to finish it up. I have to leave town for two weeks to attend a school for work. I will get back and have a week to get this together to drive to Wuste. At this point it is not looking like I have enough time, but I am going to do my best to make it there.


----------



## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

More pics:


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## AzDubbin1.8t (Apr 20, 2007)

Wow amazing post.!!!!! I've read it inch by inch and now I want to ditch my 16V and swap a 20V. Mainly cus I have a CIS and have on going issues with that freakig engine...!!! amazing build tho I'm jelous for sure


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## bigdaddyvwmk3 (Apr 23, 2010)

really good post dude....amgagin how to and pics.....i will garentee that you changed alot of peoples minds about what they are going to do with there projects.....i always wanted to do this swap into a mk3 golf 4 door.......but sadly i am already almost done rebuilding my 2.0.......i plan on doing this swap some time in the near future........i will deffinatly be savin this thread......GREAT post dude


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Thanks for all of the positive comments here. Since this is my first project involving an engine swap and my first Mk2 Project, I appreciate all of the feedback, good and bad. I need you guys to keep me on track here


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I just ordered some new small bumpers and a quad grill from TM-Tuning. I really wanted to get some crystal cross hair lights, but I can't find any in stock and I also want to get something that has good quality. Anybody out there recommend any good e-codes ?


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Since I live in California and am going to register this car as an engine change so it will be legal, I have to run the smog pump. The big problem with that is that the pump won't fit because of the front cross member. My fabricator who did the engine bay for me told me to go ahead and cut out the area where the pump was hitting and he would reinforce it for me so here is what I did:










and here is how it fits:










I took the cross member to him and here is what he did to it:



















He builds custom hotrods and he said that he wanted it to look clean and OEM instead of just welding up the cut out area. I think it looks awesome and should be plenty strong enough:










He also fabricated the spacer and bolts for the shifter:



















I got my Eurojet street core and front grill: 










Since I am going to have the AC condenser from the MKIV and the inner headlights on the quad round grill, there will be no room to mount the intercooler behind the grill. I have a new small euro bumper on the way from TM Tuning so while I am waiting for that I got an old small bumper that I have laying around to see how it will all fit. Here is a quick mock up of what it is going to look like:










My fabricator said he will do something nice to get it mounted. Right now I am waiting for the front bumper to get here next week and the engine is going in for the last time. Everything is going to be plugged in , wired, connected, and filled by the next weekend. I f I get all that done, I should be able to start it by next weekend. I am taking the two steering columns to my fabricator today to get the MKIV column adapted. Once that is done it will be time to get the dash sorted out. I am starting to see a light at the end of the tunnel.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I have been waiting a long time to get the shifter back because it needed the one inch spacer to be installed and sit correctly. I cleaned out the original mounting underneath the car for the shifter and got it bolted in:










I decided to see what it would look like with the center console and here is what it looked like:










Unfortunately it is sitting too low so I took the spacer off and re-installed it and it fit perfect with the center console:










Basically all of the DIY for this were to fit it with a MK2 center console. Since I am using the MKIV one, it would have worked perfect without being modified so I could have had this in a long time ago. I will need to mount a small strip of metal across the back to bolt the rear of it though.


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## drunyon00 (Sep 9, 2008)

ive been waiting for this update for sooo long haha i just got my motor in but im going with some different mounts so thats what im waiting for. but this is coming together great keep it going


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Thanks, I have just been so busy with other things that I haven't had much time to work on this.


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## 1.8TRabbit (Nov 15, 2004)

Looking great!opcorn:


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

When I started this I knew that the three big hassles for me were going to be the shifter, steering column, and dash. Well now the shifter is finished and in:










The steering column is done:



















So that is two of the holdups checked off the list. To mount the column and dash, I am going to cut and have the metal dash support from the MKIV welded in so it will bolt right in.

I also got some more powder coating done:



















And some pretty stuff from TM Tuning showed up:










E-Code inner and outer crystal lights, new clean Euro front and rear bumpers, and crystal front turn signals to go with the new badge-less quad round grill that I already had. I need to finish torquing everything on the engine and it will go in tonight for the final time.


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## vivalamexico (Dec 29, 2003)

why does this thread make me happy and sad at the same time....


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I don't know. Got the engine torqued, all the hoses clamped, and then dropped it in for the final time:










Here you can see that there is plenty of room for the SAI pump:










and the clutch master cylinder and shifter cables are attached to the trans:











Today after work I am going to connect the axles, hook up the harness, and get the radiator, power steering, and AC lines connected.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I got all of the wires connected in the bay except for the lights because I will have to modify all of those. I still need to figure out connecting the battery as well since it is inside now and the DIY I was using from the MKIV forum is MIA after the forum switch. I got everything in the rain tray situated and the main harness in the cover. I put the front support on a little pre-maturely, but I wanted to see how it was all going to look. Tomorrow i am going to pull the support back off and run the power steering and AC lines. Once I get those on, the radiator goes in. If I can figure the battery out, I should be able to get it started by Sunday.


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## 1.8TRabbit (Nov 15, 2004)

Batrugger said:


> I got all of the wires connected in the bay except for the lights because I will have to modify all of those. I still need to figure out connecting the battery as well since it is inside now and the DIY I was using from the MKIV forum is MIA after the forum switch. I got everything in the rain tray situated and the main harness in the cover. I put the front support on a little pre-maturely, but I wanted to see how it was all going to look. Tomorrow i am going to pull the support back off and run the power steering and AC lines. Once I get those on, the radiator goes in. If I can figure the battery out, I should be able to get it started by Sunday.


Is it just me or does this look like the bottom frame is bent backwards to hell on the driver side? :what:


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

1.8TRabbit said:


> Is it just me or does this look like the bottom frame is bent backwards to hell on the driver side? :what:


Must just be the angle. Every part is bolting right up and fitting perfect. No tweaking needed.


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## drunyon00 (Sep 9, 2008)

its a volkswagen thing if you havent ever taken notice. everyone when taken apart looks like that


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## huichox4 (Nov 8, 2004)

WOW .... first time looking at this and read through all posts!!! this is a great build, I am considering doing a 1.8t swap in to a mk1 but due to the fact of custom work I have not pulled the trigger yet. 

I wish I had more time to work on the cars, my wife gets jealous


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

huichox4 said:


> WOW .... first time looking at this and read through all posts!!! this is a great build, I am considering doing a 1.8t swap in to a mk1 but due to the fact of custom work I have not pulled the trigger yet.
> 
> I wish I had more time to work on the cars, my wife gets jealous


Do it, I was going to do this in my 87 Rocco, but this was just easier and made more sense. The only fab you should need would be the the trans and rear mounts. Today was a drinking and swimming day, but I added a sticker, so I took a shot to show how bad the rest of the car looks:



















You can see the rear of my 87 Scirocco, my 04.5 GLI, and the top of our new dog Titus


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## vivalamexico (Dec 29, 2003)

Why just the top of the dog? Does he have a build thread?


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

vivalamexico said:


> Why just the top of the dog? Does he have a build thread?


LOL, just the top because he snuck in there and I didn't know until I saw it on the computer.


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## zeroskater88 (Oct 11, 2007)

Sorry if I missed it but I've read so much, who did the polishing?


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

zeroskater88 said:


> Sorry if I missed it but I've read so much, who did the polishing?


 It is a little shop a mile away from me called Diaz Polishing in Hesperia.


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

awesome build wow

looks greatt


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Looks really good.

I see one thing that appears suspect though. I haven't read though every detail, so maybe you already explained but it appears that you are using a G60 front engine bracket (for the 02a/02j) with a Corrado Vr or Passat B3/B4 Front carrier/Cross member. If so, the angle that the bottom of the G60 front bracket produces is not correct and the Brkt will not sit flat on the mount without cocking the mount in a bad angle.

Did I miss you mentioning something regarding this?

Shawn


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

sdezego said:


> Looks really good.
> 
> I see one thing that appears suspect though. I haven't read though every detail, so maybe you already explained but it appears that you are using a G60 front engine bracket (for the 02a/02j) with a Corrado Vr or Passat B3/B4 Front carrier/Cross member. If so, the angle that the bottom of the G60 front bracket produces is not correct and the Brkt will not sit flat on the mount without cocking the mount in a bad angle.
> 
> ...


Yes you are correct and I am living with it for now. What would be the correct mount? Great O2M mounts BTW. If I had seen those before, I might have just used the O2M I started with.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Thanks.

The Mk3 2L front brkt is much stronger and has the correct angle, but sadly never came with the ear for the 02a/j trans since they were 020. Therefore, it would need to be modified.

Frank, AKA "G60ing" has mentioned a few times that the Mk3 Diesel front brkt is a direct fit for what you have (4 cyl using Vr/B3/B4 Front Carrier and mount on 02a/j). I have never had one in hand and don't think I have ever seen a picture of one, but I trust Frank's judgement 

EDIT: 1HO 199 273B (should be the PN)


I love the way you did the whole bay :thumbup:


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Thanks for the info. I will get my VW parts guy and see what it runs. I just bolted in my polished AC lines:










I had to change the coolant flange on my MKIV GLI so while I was in there I pulled the battery box and was able to see where all of the wiring hooks up so I will have that straightened out pretty soon on this car. All that is left is to get the fuel lines connected, the radiator, and the AC condenser and it should be almost there.


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## 8716vrocco (Feb 12, 2001)

Awesome build :thumbup:


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

sdezego said:


> Thanks.
> 
> The Mk3 2L front brkt is much stronger and has the correct angle, but sadly never came with the ear for the 02a/j trans since they were 020. Therefore, it would need to be modified.
> 
> ...


I got the mount ordered from the dealer at $97 and wil pick it up tomorrow so we'll see how it fits.



8716vrocco said:


> Awesome build :thumbup:


Thanks


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I got the motor mount swapped and it is spot on:










Thanks again for the part number and now you have your picture :thumbup::beer:


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## alextjoe (Aug 7, 2008)

seeing as alot of guys are following this thread as well as i am...i just swapped in a awp 1.8t in my mk2 golf..

got it done in just under 5 weeks with the help of many threads and of course this one!..

i have run into a problem..

the swap i got was already in a mk3 which help a bunch..but now the cluster doesnt work

im using a mk4 cluster with ce2 fuse box...the cluster soposedly worked in the mk3 with out an issue.

but everything pluged in engine runs great but cluster is DEAD! no rpm/speedo/gas gauge/temp gauge. it lights up the time/km's show up...the km's dont climp. also what i turn on my high beams the high beam light pops up...but that its.

any help would be great...a diy on wirring mk4 cluster into ce2 fuse box or something...al the mk2 1.8t swap thread i have al use mk4 dahsed and full mk4 wirring...

GREAT THREAD AND BUILD engine looks amazing.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I wish I could help you out with that, but I am using everything from the same car. It may be something that needs to be done with vag-com, or it could be a bad cluster. AC, power steering, radiator, and downpipe are connected. I still need to mount and connect the intercooler, get the cables for the battery relocation, hook up the ignition and cluster and it should fire. I also bought vag-com to tweak everything after I get it started. Here is how it is all fitting in the bay:





































Hopefully it all works when it starts. I also decided that since I have the interior stripped, I am going to have a cage put in by my fabricator Ken Leet at Leet Auto Design. He is also going to fabricate brake lines, mount the intercooler, and fab a column mount out of the MKIV dash support. It is going over there after the weekend and when it comes back it should be driving


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## alextjoe (Aug 7, 2008)

i see that you have kept the n249 and the vacuum reservoir. also you kept the SAI im guessing kuz you have emesions test.

i would really sugest tho getting rid of the n249 and the vacuum reservoir on the valve cover not only does it clean up the motor a bunch! but it also speeds up your dv response by quite A LOT!!!

you simply remove all the vaccum crap and valve and the reservoir for the dv and simply run a vacuum line from the intake to the dv...

i had it your way before and recently removed it all and wow what a great difference!!!

anyways you might already know this and probebly keeping this stuff for a reason but i figure i would trow it out there!.

i also found the for my cluster i was missing a 12v wire to power it up...but now my speedo at idle jumps fron 10-20 back and forth back and forth non stop...gana try and figure it out!

GL!


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

alextjoe said:


> i see that you have kept the n249 and the vacuum reservoir. also you kept the SAI im guessing kuz you have emesions test.
> 
> i would really sugest tho getting rid of the n249 and the vacuum reservoir on the valve cover not only does it clean up the motor a bunch! but it also speeds up your dv response by quite A LOT!!!
> 
> ...


Yeah I wish i could delete all of that stuff, but here in California in order to register it, I have to get it certified as an engine change. I have to bring it to the State referee station and they go over the car with a fine tooth comb. When they do, they are checking to see if the engine is newer, and that it has all of the original emissions equipment. That is the reason that I had the front cross member modified to fit the SAI pump. I also have to the recirculation equipment and it has to pass a pressure test on the tank. It will even have the original intake. This is the main reason why i didn't try and shave the bay. FMIC is allowed though.


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## alextjoe (Aug 7, 2008)

wow that blows donky dick lol..here in montreal, canada dumped all that in the trash the first day i got the motor lol!!!


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Well I am getting close now. I got the battery hooked up and the cluster had power. I tried to start it, but it would not crank. I hooked up my VAG-COM and coded the CAN Gateway to all zeros so it wouldn't look for airbags and ABS. Hopefully I can get some help from someone out there. Here is what I have:



> Chassis Type: 1J - VW Golf/Bora IV
> Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 47 55 56 57 75
> 76
> 
> ...


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## halchka99 (Apr 18, 2002)

can you confirm your starter is getting power and the proper amount? is your fuel pump priming once key is turned to ignition? do you hear anything with the key to ignition?


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

When I turn the key, all of the usual cluster lights come on and I get the usual buzzing from the engine bay, but there is no cranking. I wasn't hearing the fuel pump though. I connected the corresponding wires according to the bentley, MKIV harness to MK2 plug. Off the top of my head there are four wires and it was:

brn to brn
vio/blk to vio blk
brn/blu to brn/wht
red/yel to I can't remember

The fuel gauge on the cluster was reading half full, but I wasn't hearing a prime. The starter has a lead connected directly from a new Optima red battery, but I didn't check the voltage. The clutch sensor is hooked up and is not engaged.


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## halchka99 (Apr 18, 2002)

fuse and relay check? have you gone through those to rule out the simple stuff? kinda off topic here but you said you have your clutch switch installed, are you using a mark 4 clutch pedal or mk2? any pictures of the switch/harness. i want to figure out how to hook up the clutch switch with a mark 2 pedal.


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## alextjoe (Aug 7, 2008)

make sure you have 12v to the starter at the main terminal and check if your 12v signal to activate the started is well connected and if you are getting 12v when key is turned to crank position.

the 12v signal is usually connected directly from your ignition switch to the starter..

make sure everything is well connected


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

halchka99 said:


> fuse and relay check? have you gone through those to rule out the simple stuff? kinda off topic here but you said you have your clutch switch installed, are you using a mark 4 clutch pedal or mk2? any pictures of the switch/harness. i want to figure out how to hook up the clutch switch with a mark 2 pedal.


I am leaning more and more to something just not connected and am going to go over everything after I get home from work. I am using Corrado pedals and there is a hole for the clutch switch from the Corrado. I removed the switch and then dremeled out a small triangle in the hole to fit the MKIV switch. If you compare the two switches it is pretty easy to see what needs to be done. LMK if that helps you out because pics would be tough since it is all bolted in already.



alextjoe said:


> make sure you have 12v to the starter at the main terminal and check if your 12v signal to activate the started is well connected and if you are getting 12v when key is turned to crank position.
> 
> the 12v signal is usually connected directly from your ignition switch to the starter..
> 
> make sure everything is well connected


 Thanks, the first thing I will do when I get home is break out the volt meter to see what is happening.


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## VasDrafts (Apr 23, 2004)

Just got finished reading this whole thread... Nice work!! Makes me want to pick up the pace on my VR swap in my gli.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Okay I hate to admit it, but when it comes to engine electrics, I just have no clue. I was trying to test the starter yesterday with a multimeter and I hope I was doing it right. Here is what I am looking at:










So I touch the main lead from the battery on the solenoid to a ground on the car and there is good power. I touch the stud below the main power lead to a ground and there is a circuit. I touch main power to the other stud and there is a circuit, and I touch the main power the small ground on the solenoid and there is a circuit. Basically every lead to a ground on the solenoid is giving me an open circuit. Finally I unplugged the wire that plugs onto the solenoid and tested it to a ground and there was nothing. I turned the key and there was nothing on that wire as well.










I'm not sure what all of this means so your help is appreciated. I do have another sarter from the ABA that came in this car originally and the plugs are the same. I am going to plug it in after I get home and see if it turns. If the starter is bad, does anybody know if the starter from the ABA and 02O trans will work with the 02J. They look identical.


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## alextjoe (Aug 7, 2008)

ok so this is the only 2 things you need to test on the start 

1: the large wire bolted to the stud on the left should have 12v constant no matter what. if this is ok then move on the step 2

2:the black wire with the connector is the 12v signal..when key is turned to "off" there should be no voltage, when key is turned to "on/accesories" there should be no voltage, only when you turn the key to the "crank/start" position 12v should be there.

so only probe those 2 apply the red lead to the started terminal you are testing and the black lead on any GOOD ground. direct battery ground is best.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

alextjoe said:


> ok so this is the only 2 things you need to test on the start
> 
> 1: the large wire bolted to the stud on the left should have 12v constant no matter what. if this is ok then move on the step 2
> 
> ...


Okay I did that and the small wire that activates the starter had no current when the key was turned. I have been reading and a couple of times when i tried it, the alarm activated. Could the anti-theft be preventing it from starting since the door latches are not connected?


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Batrugger said:


> I got the motor mount swapped and it is spot on:
> 
> ...
> Thanks again for the part number and now you have your picture :thumbup::beer:


:thumbup:




Batrugger said:


> ..Could the anti-theft be preventing it from starting since the door latches are not connected?


Yes, absolutely. The alarm completes the starter circuit. There are 2 thick wires on the alarm plug. 1 should be Red/Gr and one should be Red/Bk, but I have come across that the stripes can vary slightly on different models. But they are the 2 thickest wires on the alarm plug.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

sdezego said:


> Yes, absolutely. The alarm completes the starter circuit. There are 2 thick wires on the alarm plug. 1 should be Red/Gr and one should be Red/Bk, but I have come across that the stripes can vary slightly on different models. But they are the 2 thickest wires on the alarm plug.


 Thanks for the help. I will have to check this out tomorrow, Are the wires in the door harness? I bypassed the starter wire and it fired right up and then shut down because of the immobilizer the starter is good. It sure was cool to hear it fire right up. I really just needed to know it would run before I took it to the fabricators house


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## alextjoe (Aug 7, 2008)

good stuff that was the next thing i was gana tell you to do is just jump it loll.

good stuff now just get the immo figured out...are you going to get it removed? your gana get the ecu chipped anyways might..or do you want to retain the immo?


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

alextjoe said:


> good stuff that was the next thing i was gana tell you to do is just jump it loll.
> 
> good stuff now just get the immo figured out...are you going to get it removed? your gana get the ecu chipped anyways might..or do you want to retain the immo?


I am puzzled why it is kicking in. I have the engine, harness, ECU, key, and cluster from the donor car so it shouldn't need to be removed. The ECU has an APR flash on it already as well.


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## alextjoe (Aug 7, 2008)

honnestly all i have heard are horror stories with trying to keep the immo..would randomly kill the car while driving then wouldnt let it start for hours then it would start again and run fine for a couple daus then kill it again..then they would remove the immo no more problem....

just get it removed and call it a day no more head aches lol


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

The car runs now :thumbup:. I missed the immobilizer coil wire. Unfortunately it still doesn't start with the key. My fabricator is booked for the whole month so I am going to try and find another way to get the column mounted since it is the one big thing holding up progress.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I made a quick video:

GTI :: GTI 1.8T Start-up video by batrugger - Photobucket


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## alextjoe (Aug 7, 2008)

congrats!!! i remember my fist start up


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## notsoslow (Nov 5, 2009)

Batrugger said:


> I am puzzled why it is kicking in. I have the engine, harness, ECU, key, and cluster from the donor car so it shouldn't need to be removed. The ECU has an APR flash on it already as well.


Hey Batrugger your project is looking great, nice work. 

I am doing a similar swap excet AEB into my Mk1 rabbit...I am coming up with the same problem with a possible Immo. 




Batrugger said:


> The car runs now :thumbup:. I missed the immobilizer coil wire. Unfortunately it still doesn't start with the key. My fabricator is booked for the whole month so I am going to try and find another way to get the column mounted since it is the one big thing holding up progress.


What is this "Immo coil wire" and where is it at? Did it fix the prob other than having to jump the starter?


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

notsoslow said:


> What is this "Immo coil wire" and where is it at? Did it fix the prob other than having to jump the starter?


 The wire is actually a small black 2 pin plug, not much bigger than the two wires. It plugs into the bottom of the ignition. After I plugged this in and cleared the code, I no longer had the problem with the immobilizer. I still need to find out why my starter wire isn't hot.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Batrugger said:


> ... I still need to find out why my starter wire isn't hot.


Just to rule out one other thing besides the alarm. This car wasn't an auto was it? Because if so. Auto's had the Shift Lockout which prevented you from starting if not in Park.

If not, then it has to be something with the alarm. Check those 2 thick wires I mentioned above right at the alarm module plug. Not sure where the module is on the Mk3, but it is under the dash to the right of the speedo cluster and back to back to the Cruise module on the Corrado.


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## notsoslow (Nov 5, 2009)

Batrugger said:


> The wire is actually a small black 2 pin plug, not much bigger than the two wires. It plugs into the bottom of the ignition. After I plugged this in and cleared the code, I no longer had the problem with the immobilizer. I still need to find out why my starter wire isn't hot.


Oh that is right you did an o6A swap, so you dont have the motronic 5.9 you should have the later version. I have the motronic 5.9for my AEB swap out of a 99 passat, I was under the impression that the 99 passat didnt have an Immo function. It def. dosnt have the two wires on the bottom of the Ignition like you are talkingabout.


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## alextjoe (Aug 7, 2008)

the wire for the starter is really easy to track down..just follow it from your fuse box to your column then from column(ignition swith to starter) and if you have the alarm module controling that check there just probe around with the multi meter going down the junctions until you find out where you are loosing the 12v


this wire also goes to the clutch safety switch i simply jumped mine with a fuse in the connector to bypass the clutch switch check if yours is pluged or atleast jumped


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## notsoslow (Nov 5, 2009)

alextjoe said:


> the wire for the starter is really easy to track down..just follow it from your fuse box to your column then from column(ignition swith to starter) and if you have the alarm module controling that check there just probe around with the multi meter going down the junctions until you find out where you are loosing the 12v
> 
> 
> this wire also goes to the clutch safety switch i simply jumped mine with a fuse in the connector to bypass the clutch switch check if yours is pluged or atleast jumped


I figured out that I could overide the starter alarm relay by taking relay number 12 out and bypassing the relay with jumper wires that enable me to crank the motor with the Key verses jumping the starter!:thumbup:


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Thanks for the wiring and electrical tips. I haven't tried them yet since I am trying to get everything in front done. Progress has been slow since it has been going over 110 degrees up here the last few days. I got the intercooler mounted though:










I had to trim out the bottom of the front bumper in order for it to fit, but I am able to get the cover on with out cutting it. In the picture it isn't pressed all the way on yet. It looks like all I need are two steel tubes, one 45 degree and two 90 degree silicone couplers, and a MAP sensor bung to get it all connected so it shouldn't be too hard to do. I am getting the bung from 42 Draft designs tomorrow and then I will take it to a muffler shop to have tubing cut and it welded into a tube. Silicone I will have to order. I am going to hit the local junkyard tomorrow when they first open before it goes over 100 degrees to get the lower front valence and brake lines. Hopefully the small bumper car I saw there three weeks ago is still around.


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## koko5869 (Feb 15, 2006)

awesome. i havent been up to date with the thread since the big changover. 

but definitely awesome work. love the detail and the dedication. definitely inspiring. :thumbup:


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## vwrevisit-ed (Jun 24, 2008)

Those tires street slicks or baldies? Either way you might as well leave them on. Youre gonna need new ones soon anyway. LOL Looks great buddy. I like what you do. Later, Ed


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I appreciate all of the positive feedback. I went back to work this week and I haven't gotten a lot of time for work, but I have managed to get a lot done. I got silicone connectors from ATP Turbo and a MAP sensor flange from 42 Draft Designs and took it down to my regular muffler shop where they fabricated my intercooler piping at no cost. It is just steel piping with a bead welded on each end to keep the silicone from slipping off: 




























It isn't pretty, but it works and it was really cool to fire it up and hear the turbo with the revs. I added coolant and ran it up to operating temperature and the fans came on like they were supposed to. I do have a link at the upper radiator neck and found out that it was cracked just like a typical MK2. I went ahead and ordered this from Gruvenparts so I won't have to worry about it: 










I was able to mount the fan relay box and the blue vacuum reservoir under the fenders so I got the front fenders and splash guards on too. I got some brake hard-lines from the junk yard and got them installed, but I still need to fill and bleed the system. All that is really left to do is fill the power steering, charge the AC, and torque the axles inside and out and it will be good to go under the hood. I am trying to find the lower plastic grill that goes under the bumper on the small bumper car. Once I get that, I can put the front end on it. I have also been getting some other look good parts: 










Since the original donor was a 20th AE GTI, I got a steering wheel and airbag(not shown), shift boot and knob, a parking brake cover, and all of the interior black lights from a couple of 20th AE part outs. The gauges are Newsouth Performance Indigo boost, oil temp, and oil pressure and they match the MKIV cluster perfectly. The dual pod is for the MK2 A pillar and the odffset column pod fits the MKIV steering column. The Hella fogs are going to be mounted under the bumper. I still need to get the column mounted before I can really get going in the interior. Once it is done, the wiring and dash will all get installed. Hopefully I will be able to figure out why the key is still not starting it after I can route the wiring harness.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Yesterday was hot and muggy, but I did an oil change and filled the brakes with ATE blue fluid. I used a Motul bleeder and it went really smooth. I tried the clutch though and it wasn't working. I realized after I cleaned up and put everything away that I had bled the clutch slave cylinder, but forgot to bleed the release on the clutch master cylinder so I need to go back and do that. I got the front end on with the intercooler and I can finally say that the engine swap portion is basically finished. Here it is looking like a car again:


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## vivalamexico (Dec 29, 2003)

You're gonna get bugs in yer buck toof.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

vivalamexico said:


> You're gonna get bugs in yer buck toof.


:laugh: but its a performance buck toof


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## notsoslow (Nov 5, 2009)

vivalamexico said:


> You're gonna get bugs in yer buck toof.


buck toofs are good for opening beer cans LOL :beer:

Looking good...keep the updates coming...


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Picked this up last night:




























Complete rear disc brake swap with Zimmerman rotors and stainless steel lines. I have a Neuspeed rear bar to go on as well after I get some new hardware for it. The rust is just very light surface rust. You gotta love the desert for that.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Today I went to put the new radiator neck on the Corrado radiator. Not only was the neck cracked, but the plastic that keeps the nuts, for the bolts, that hold the radiator neck on is cracked and the nuts just turn freely and I can't unbolt it. Is there a fix for this or do I need to buy a new radiator?


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## alextjoe (Aug 7, 2008)

that a tuffy!!!... depending how its made you can take a small drill bit and actually drill through the plastic and into the nut a little bit then insert comething like a punch or a small allen key..that will keep the nut from spinning once out your best bet is to maybe supper glue or apoxy the nut into place or figure something out...

i dont know how these rads are made maybe you can post a pic or two and we can fidure it out then


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Batrugger said:


> Today I went to put the new radiator neck on the Corrado radiator. Not only was the neck cracked, but the plastic that keeps the nuts, for the bolts, that hold the radiator neck on is cracked and the nuts just turn freely and I can't unbolt it. Is there a fix for this or do I need to buy a new radiator?


I had one that did that too. I just replaced the Rad as I didn't want that crack propagating into the Coolant flange when replaced. However, if you must, you can grind the head off of the bolt and then slip the bolt/nut through the bottom side. re-set a new nut with JB weld.

S


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## beetlevdubn (Apr 25, 2005)

I had the same issue on a VR swap I did, and it was easier just to buy a new Corrado radiator. Even if you get it going initially, and it appears it isn't leaking, that is a problem area with those radiators, and it will eventually.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Thanks for the info, I just ordered a new one. Sucks because I just filled it.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I was at West Coast Worthesee this weekend so there is not a lot of progress. I did get some things powder coated: 










I also got all of the parts from GAP, Neuspeed, and Powerflex to rebuild the whole rear beam. The new radiator also came in. From TM Tuning I got an upper stress bar and 16V lip. I had the bar and radiator neck polished: 



















I also added a MKV part: 










It is the plastic cover for the coil pack wiring. It really cleans it up. I got the idea from Savko. Now I have parts from 4 generations in this build.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Batrugger said:


> It is the plastic cover for the coil pack wiring. It really cleans it up. I got the idea from Savko. Now I have parts from 4 generations in this build.


 I have been looking to get one of those since I first saw them. Where did you get it from? dealer? I thought I looked a while back and the dealer was $$$


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

sdezego said:


> I have been looking to get one of those since I first saw them. Where did you get it from? dealer? I thought I looked a while back and the dealer was $$$


I don't have the invoice here, but IIRC it was about $20.


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## filthyillness (Feb 13, 2010)

This is great. I was planning on doing something like this after my Mk3 is built. Thanks and great build!


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Batrugger said:


> I don't have the invoice here, but IIRC it was about $20.


 Nice. I must have looked up the whole harness then, because it was over 100. I didn't second guess VW :laugh: 

If you come across the PN, let me know. I will try and find it in ETKA.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Will do. I just got an amazing deal on two 16X9 et30 almost new Schmidt one piece Modernlines. I am going to put them on the back and then get two new ones from Tunershop for the front. Fitment may be a problem though. I am not going to have flares on the arches so it is nothing that can't be fixed with spacers and fender rolling right.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Last month I won a K&N Intake System of my choice at a local GTG. Since their factory is close by, I stopped by and got the one for the 1.8T. The long tube won't fit, but it does double as a short ram. I got it installed and it looks pretty good. I really can't complain for the price:



















With the addition of the intake I think I can finally call the engine finished. There is still some little detail work left, but it time to put a fork in it..it's done. Now i need to get going on the interior and exterior. Today Fedex brought me something really nice:










Schmidt Revolution Modern Line 16x9 et30. I only got two, but the price was killer so I will work with Tunershop to get the other two. Here are some more pics:





































There is about a credit card width between the strut and rear beam and the rim. Tunershop recommended a 15mm spacer on the back, but it seems it would be okay with a 5mm. They said I should run 16x9 et25 up front. Anybody have any advice contrary to this? This is an are where i am really in the dark.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I did get the wheels figured out. I have a set of 5mm spacers and 5mm on the back was good for clearance, but when I put it on the front with the 5mm spacer to bring it to a et25, it poked more than the rear:




























If I get two rims with an et15 for the rear it will line them up right and will save me the cost of another set of spacers. I am planning on wrapping them with some Falken 512's at 215-45-16.


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## VRpower6 (Jun 28, 2005)

I have a woody right now following this build. This is awesome. Keep up the hard work, cheers mate :beer:


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## syracusegli (Jan 22, 2005)

good thread :thumbup:


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## notsoslow (Nov 5, 2009)

VRpower6 said:


> I have a woody right now following this build. This is awesome. Keep up the hard work, cheers mate :beer:


those old "woody's " really pull a premium on Barret Jackson you should hold on to that bad boy! LOL:laugh:


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## Maceman (Nov 22, 2001)

Just came across this thread. Read every post. We need more threads like this. Great work you are doing man, cant wait to see it all tied together. Subscribed! :thumbup: :beer:


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Thanks I really appreciate the positive comments and encouragement. The car was finally picked up today to go to the fabricator so I should start making some progress here soon. I got tires on the two wheels too so I will be able to see where they sit and have the fenders pulled to accommodate the width. The guy is an OG hot rod builder so he is going to give me his advice and use his tricks to finish up the engine bay.


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## underhauled (Dec 28, 2009)

Absolutely awesome build. Dont complain about the weather im in ireland we bitch about rain. Need to see that dash going in very impressive work.


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## $800rado (Jun 1, 2007)

whats your wiring secret plz more info and how?


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I really don't have a secret. I swapped out the whole MK2 harness for the MKIV and used as many parts from the MKIV as I could. 99% of the engine bay was plug and play. The interior i haven't messed with yet and that is where it is going to get tough when I have to figure out the windows and locks.


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## underhauled (Dec 28, 2009)

Has anyone told you you are absolutely insane. I am getting my ecu decoded to kill the immobiliser and the evap/emmisions crap and thats it. I will be using the donor clocks for engine monitoring only and as the donor was all fly-by-wire the speed sensor and revs should be spot on. I am basically going to splice in the turn signal and headlight annunciators from the mark two loom into the donor clocks.

Sir i salute your bravery and insanity. When i have my clocks in ill post up pics for you guys. I love threads like this.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

underhauled said:


> Has anyone told you you are absolutely insane. I am getting my ecu decoded to kill the immobiliser and the evap/emmisions crap and thats it. I will be using the donor clocks for engine monitoring only and as the donor was all fly-by-wire the speed sensor and revs should be spot on. I am basically going to splice in the turn signal and headlight annunciators from the mark two loom into the donor clocks.
> 
> Sir i salute your bravery and insanity. When i have my clocks in ill post up pics for you guys. I love threads like this.


Unfortunately for me being a resident of California means that I can't delete any of the emissions equipment and in order to register it legally, it will be inspected and certified. I really hate wiring too, so for me, this just seemed the easiest way to do it.


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## underhauled (Dec 28, 2009)

Batrugger said:


> Unfortunately for me being a resident of California means that I can't delete any of the emissions equipment and in order to register it legally, it will be inspected and certified. I really hate wiring too, so for me, this just seemed the easiest way to do it.


Well done and keep on the updates.


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## VWDugan (Mar 22, 2001)

awesome build thread....the attention to detail is amazing....I cant wait to see it finished


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## notsoslow (Nov 5, 2009)

How's the mk2 interior coming along? I think we deserve some pics of.the interior progress so far......keep it up, the bay looks awesome. :thumbup:


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Unfortunately nothing is happening. It is still at the fabricators waiting for him to get to it. I am going to go by today and take him some swag from work to hopefully make him feel a little guilty and get to work on it. I did decide for seats that I want to recover a set of MK2 Recaros to look like 20th AE GTI Recaros to go along with the dash, steering wheel, and shifter.


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## tjgoodgravy (Aug 31, 2007)

Need an update, I am loving this build. I really want to see this finalized.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

it is still sitting there waiting its turn. I should get the front wheels in the next couple of days though. He should start working on it next week since he is almost finished with the two projects ahead of it.


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## Stixsp11 (Apr 21, 2007)

sick dude, flawlessly carried out...I read this whole thread instead of paying attention in my internet security class


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Finally I have an update worth posting about. I got my wheels and tires on:










Here is my 17 year-old son that now works here. He is learning the tricks of the trade




























Schmidt one piece Modern-Lines

Front= 16X9 et25 w/ Falken Ziex ZE-512 215/40ZR-16 XL 86W
Rear= 16X9 et30 and 17mm spacers w/ Falken Ziex ZE-512 215/40ZR-16 XL 86W 

The arches will stay metal and will be rolled out to fit the wider wheels. In order to explain the lack of progress from the shop, I took some pics of what is happening at the shop to show some of the other works in progress. It will show that the car is in good hands and since he is not charging me anything close to his full-price, I really can't complain about it:

Here's a couple of Rhodesian Ridgebacks hanging out










Corvette Stringray Restoration










Custom Bike next to the Corvette chassis










Falcon street rod



















Suicide Lincoln on bags























































Bagged Ghia




























30's Roadster










He runs the radiator in the back of the car to eliminate it from the front



















As I was leaving, one of his finished projects pulled up:


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## MOTA BOY (Aug 21, 2007)

:thumbup: For the build! Update time!


And this last flat black car is  ...


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Actually I finally have some good news. The car finally got into the bay and the dash is going in. It looks perfect. I am going to go by tomorrow and update with some pics.


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## Maceman (Nov 22, 2001)

Batrugger said:


> Actually I finally have some good news. The car finally got into the bay and the dash is going in. It looks perfect. I am going to go by tomorrow and update with some pics.


its been 2 days, stop holding out on us. I've been checking in on the the thread for weeks and now a promise of an update! lets see it! :laugh:


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I didn't make it out there yesterday, but I just got back from there so here are some dash pics:



















and a parting shot:










The dash fits perfectly up front along the window and the defrost vents are all intact so everything should work as it did in the MKIV. Once it gets all figured out, I will pull it out so I can run all of the wiring and HVAC tubing. The exhaust has been welded together, the rear disc beam with all new and reconditioned parts has been installed, and the clutch slave cylinder, shift link, intercooler tubes, and both hood latches were sent out for chroming. I also cheaped out and bought some Rokkor coilovers yesterday so I should be able to get it dropped next week and figure out what needs to be done to the fenders. I am planning on not using flares so he may need to do some fender widening. Once the chrome bits come back and get installed, it should be ready for a test drive. Hopefully it will happen over Thanksgiving weekend, but the way my work schedule has been it will more than likely be in early December.

A few things I have learned that I would do differently if I could. I would find a MK3 steering rack since it will bolt into the MK2 and the MKIV column will bolt onto it with no modification. In order to do the dash, put the MKIV dash support in first by shaving the ends off, get it situated, and then the column will bolt right up to it. You will then need to peel the vinyl back from the back of the dash so that you can wrap the excess over the cut area which will give it a clean look. Cut a little at a time until all of the holes on the dash line up with the holes on the support. I was surprised at how little needed to be cut off.


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## alextjoe (Aug 7, 2008)

everything look awsome!!

il be honnest personally i find putting a mk5 dash in really ruins the whole mk2 style...i like the old style golf with its old style parts..of course with the 1.8t.

every one love different things thats for sure..

it is cool tho how you got all the mk5 hvac all all those creature comforts in!

good job on the build looks great!

you will love the 1.8t in the mk2 when i finished my swap that i started last winter and finished right around spring and took it for the first drive my face look quite like this  :what:

cant wait to see it all done!!


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I really like the older dash too, but I wanted and had to use the cluster. I really hadn't seen a good way to make it work with the old dash that I liked, so I did it this way. The modern AC will be a big plus here in the desert too .


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## nnamssorxela (Jul 19, 2009)

That falcon must be fast with 2 V8s in there!


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Batrugger said:


> ...
> A few things I have learned that I would do differently if I could....
> 
> ... You will then need to peel the vinyl back from the back of the dash so that you can wrap the excess over the cut area which will give it a clean look. Cut a little at a time until all of the holes on the dash line up with the holes on the support. I was surprised at how little needed to be cut off.


:thumbup: Great idea.


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## Maceman (Nov 22, 2001)

Thanks for the update. Looks like its coming along nicely :thumbup:


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## alextjoe (Aug 7, 2008)

ya i wanted to use the mk4 cluster also but after some fiting with it to try and make it fit i gave up and decided to just use the mk2 cluster..just got a tach converter and the right speedo cable and everything works great and the interior stays stock


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## VRT (Dec 8, 2001)

looking at the dash... your too close to the shifter you need another 2" taken out of the dash. Which means the rebar behind it need to go back more.
I have gone thru this on my Corrado


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## alextjoe (Aug 7, 2008)

VRT said:


> looking at the dash... your too close to the shifter you need another 2" taken out of the dash. Which means the rebar behind it need to go back more.
> I have gone thru this on my Corrado


its true now that you said it looking at the pics

it seems like you will be punching your climate control everytime you shift... :sly:


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Thanks guys. I'll be sure to check that out. I am booked until next weekend so I will look into as soon as I can


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Project has been stalled waiting on the fabricator, but it is coming back home tomorrow. I have been amassing parts and starting the 22nd, I will be off work until January 3rd. If all goes well, I should be able to take it out on a first drive before the New Year :thumbup:.


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## slavik19 (Feb 9, 2010)

have you figured out why your car doesnt start?
check all fuses
make sure the grounds are good.
clutch switch connected and working


should start


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## macster9090 (Jul 1, 2008)

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: amazing thread!!! im redoing my passat! but its winter here and i dont have a garage, but this makes me want to go work on it now!!  

good luck man, i cant wait to see it finished!opcorn:


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

slavik19 said:


> have you figured out why your car doesnt start?
> check all fuses
> make sure the grounds are good.
> clutch switch connected and working
> ...


I really haven't worried about it too much. Once I get the dash back out and start running all of the wiring where it goes, I'll figure out why it won't start with the key.



macster9090 said:


> :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: amazing thread!!! im redoing my passat! but its winter here and i dont have a garage, but this makes me want to go work on it now!!
> 
> good luck man, i cant wait to see it finished!opcorn:


Thanks

It finally stopped raining here so I was able to get out and do some long overdue work on the car. New Chrome:










New Coils:










20th AE Interior Bits:










Used Neuspeed Rear Sway bar w/ new hardware:










I got the new chrome pieces installed and put the hood on. I then knocked out the coils and sway bar. 
Coils on:



















Hood back on:










My wife took this shot while I was underneath the car today:










All we are missing is my kids 87 Jetta that was parked in the front yard


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I pulled the dash out today and got everything plugged back in. It fired up and it was cool to hear it running with the exhaust connected. Still won't start with the key though. I think I will just use a push button starter until I can get it figured out. I think I can make my goal of a first drive before the new year.


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## Mr.loops (May 27, 2010)

Wow... you really have a lot of cars @ your place - lol

Nice thread :thumbup:


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Finally drove the car today. It was just down the street and back, but it is alive and drives great. I still need to top off the power steering since I ran out half way through fill up and I was rubbing the front driver's side tire so I had to be raise the coil another half inch. The wheel pokes out an inch more than the passenger side which was causing the rub. It is the same on my Scirocco too and I have never figured out why. I've got everything figured out for the dash wiring except for one plug that I can't seem to find where it goes. Once I get it all situated I'll put the dash back in and work on getting all of the lights wired up.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I won't be able to get much done today:


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## mc12000 (Jan 20, 2009)

this is looking so good! I wish i had something more to input but keep up the good work!


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I need some help identifying some plugs. I cant figure out what these two in the white bracket are for: 










and this red/gray and yellow/gray plug: 










Both come out from behind the cluster area. I have accounted for everything that needs to be plugged so this is really got me stumped. I have tried to figure it out with my Bentley, but it is like finding a needle in a haystack.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Work just got crazy so I probably won't be making very good progress. I did take advantage of Harbor freights sales over the holidays and it has been a great help: 










I got the compressor, 1/2 drive impact, and a 3/8 drive ratchet. I also found a set of OEM Recaros: 










They need some work, but I plan to recover them to match the OEM Recaros in my GLI.


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## drunyon00 (Sep 9, 2008)

> and this red/gray and yellow/gray plug


 i know that one looks like a speaker wire. dont hold me to it but im prettty sure thats what mine looked like.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

drunyon00 said:


> i know that one looks like a speaker wire. dont hold me to it but im prettty sure thats what mine looked like.


 I thought it was at first, but it isn't long enough to reach the speakers.


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## BergCupCar (Aug 10, 2009)

johnsomj said:


> Hey I am doing similar build, an AEB into a '92 GTI, and I am running into the whole oil filter housing sticking right in the way of the motor mount. I got the ABA oil cooler but the top bolt of that housing is right where a current oil duct is and a little lower than the top bolt of the stock housing, did you have that problem or did I just get the wrong part... This is really frustrating because I'm finally done building the engine and now I can't drop it in!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 I am planing on running a remote oil filter setup with an inline oil cooler. You can buy the parts at summit racing or Jegs. I will have problems clearing the radiator and intercooler if I don't run the remote oil filter setup. 

J


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

My oil filter is a tight fit, but I was able to do an oil and filter change after I dropped it in. Looks like the plugs might be for the automatic climate control going off of the part numbers on the plugs. I am going to confirm it with my parts guy tomorrow. If that is the case, it will be time to get the dash back in. I will need to do some trimming on it to fit the A-pillars. Today I topped it off with the Pentosin power steering fluid which is what the MKIV's use. It foamed up and ran out of the top of the reservoir and the steering didn't turn smoothly or quietly. I'm guessing that the MK2 rack needs the old school fluid in order to run correctly. I did take it out for a real drive and ran it through all of the gears. It pulls insanely hard and was a lot of fun. No limp mode, my first clutch install worked great, and there doesn't seem to be any issues with not having ABS and wheel speed sensors. My speedometer didn't work so I have to see if the speed sensor on the trans is good or even hooked up.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Trying to get all of the tedious stuff out of the way so that I can take it to the smog ref. I got rid of the check engine light, but I am still getting three codes that I can't have if I want it to pass. Here is the last scan I did:



> VCDS Version: Release 10.6.1
> Data version: 20100831
> 
> Friday,21,January,2011,17:33:43:57004
> ...


and these are the three that I need to worry about:



> 16497 - Intake Air Temp. Sensor (G42): Signal too High
> P0113 - 35-00 - -
> 17840 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112): Open Circuit
> P1432 - 35-00 - -
> ...


I checked all of my fuses and I replaced the MAF to deal with the Intake Air Temp. Sensor (G42): Signal too High code, but it didn't work. The other two I haven't had time to deal with yet. The other issue I have is that the stock air filter box needs to be on to pass and it just will not fit in the bay. I might have to pull the hood and have it stick straight out of the top. I think I will also need to take off the Eurojet TIP and put the OEM one on to pass as well. You've got to love California emissions requirements. For the EVAP Leak Detection Pump: Open Circuit code I am going to pull the pump off of the donor car (which I still have) and hook it all up with it lying in the back hatch. Unfortunately i am working this whole weekend so it is going to be awhile before I can try all of this. I also still can't figure out why it won't start with the key, but I hooked up a push button starter so it works for now. The other problem I am having is that the illumination and high beam light on the cluster come on as soon as I turn the key on. I have no idea what is making this occur.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I swapped the intake temp sensor with my MKIV GLI and I still got the code. It was about all I had time to do this weekend. So I guess this one isn't going to be easy. I have the troublshooting page marked for the SAI in Bentley so I am going to get to that later today.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Small victory today. I took the panels under the steering wheel off of my MKIV GLI today and was able to identify one of the mystery plugs: 










It is the clutch switch. I didn't realize it because I thought that the gray switch was from the MK2 and i didn't know that there were two switches on the clutch. Now the car starts with the key which is a great relief. Is the gray switch just for starting? I was thinking about just jumping it since i can't figure out how to connect it to the Corrado pedals. I was able to trace the wires for the other two plugs and unfortunately determined that they go up over the dash support and behind the dash somewhere like this: 










The only way I could possibly see what they plug into would be to pull the whole dash off. So I'm hoping someone out here who is a tech or is doing a part out could LMK what those plugs are for. Monday I am going to make an appt to see the ref. I am just going to take it i as it is and see what they say. The inspection is free and I will know exactly what needs to be done to make it work.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Mystery plugs turned out to be for the harness that goes to the dome lights and sunroof. I found one in a part out and it is on the way. Once it gets here the dash is finally going in. I also sourced a radio cage with all the trim from a a 20th AE GTI. It won't be #1228, but it will complete the interior parts that I wanted from a 20th. I pulled the gray clutch switch and shoved a small 15amp fuse right into the connector to jump the wires and the car starts up with the key every time. I wired up my Newsouth Indigo Gauges:










Welcome to the light show:


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

It was a beautiful day today. Almost 80 so I got a lot done . Finally put my dash in for good:




























I am waiting on the 20th AE radio cage to be delivered and I am going to get a set of light up Jetta vents to finish it off. All of the vents work so once I charge the system, I should have AC. I also need to go through and screw all of the trim and glove box in. I hooked up my Monsoon amp and speakers and it actually has tunes now and I got the brake light issue resolved. The next thing I am working is on is trying to get the MKIV sunroof control to work. I got a tilt and slide sunroof and motor from a Quantum. I want to use the dome light and sunroof control from the 20th, but the gear is to big. Here is what i have to work with:




























The black box is the control module from the MKIV. The two silver metal contacts are what the motor plugged into. I assumed that they would be for - and + so I hooked the corresponding leads on the Quantum motor there. I got power, but would not turn. I'm hoping someone out there has a wiring schematic for this or knows what to do.


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## koko5869 (Feb 15, 2006)

i still enjoy running through this entire thread. kudos again man. keep up the good work. :thumbup:


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## 1.8TRabbit (Nov 15, 2004)

Looking sexy as ever! Im sure you are loving the interior and cannot wait to have it completed. :beer:


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Thanks, it is really getting there now. The 20th AE radio cage came in so I got a lot of the interior in yesterday. I also installed the ebrake from the MKIV and it was a direct fit. Since i have a MKIV GLI, I pulled a sun visor to see if i could install it since i have all of the MKIV wiring in the car:



















I had to cut out some of the metal to make it work and it is a little loose. I am going to make a template that fits around the base and then cut a metal piece to fit and weld it in. Should be good and I will have the light up sun visors. Here are some pics of the interior:




























I still need to get a set of the light up Jetta vents, the rear of the center console with an arm rest, an ashtray insert, and the rubber trim around the ignition switch and the dash swap will be done. I got it insured and took it for a drive. It had no issues at all and it just roasts the tires in 1st through 3rd. It was too much fun. I am going to get it smogged tomorrow and then registered. I am still going to run it through the ref and get it certified as a legal swap, but I want to start driving it now. The next big issues to deal with are going to be getting the windows, mirrors, sunroof, and locks to work with the MK2 parts. I also need to figure out how to fit the door cards.


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## slavik19 (Feb 9, 2010)

this is amazing keep up the good work


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I got the gray stitched boot and parking brake cover which is what the 20th AE came with. I also got the rear part of the center console, but the parking brake needs to go over towards the driver side about an inch in order for it to fit so I need to work that out. Yesterday it was aligned, smogged, registered and driven legally all over town. Anyway here it is. Just like the Millennium Falcon, It may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts:



















It was raining so I put the wipers on with some new Bosch Icon blades and found out that they work backwards so I must have messed it up when I modified the MKIV motor to run the MK2 linkage. The blades still work, I just have to mount them in the up position. In order to put the front bumper skin on, I had to loosen the fog lights. Now that it is on, I can't tighten them back up so I will need to pull the whole bumper off to fix them. The red car in the background is going to donate the fenders and hood and then I will get the fenders rolled. It was rubbing way too much so I had to raise it up to drive it.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Mod list and added to first post:

1990 Volkswagen GTI

Engine:
20th AE GTI AWP 1.8T
APR Performance Chip
APR R-1 Diverter Valve
New South Performance Intake Manifold Power Gasket
Eurojet Turbo Inlet Pipe
Eurojet Front Mount Intercooler Street Core
Eurojet Upper Charge Pipe
Eurojet Upper PCV Hose
Eurojet Lower PCV Hose
Gruvenparts Lightweight Crank Pulley
Gruvenparts Lightweight Power Steering Pulley
Gruvenparts Lightweight Tensioner Pulley
Gruvenparts Lightweight Alternator Pulley
2.5in TT Catback Exhaust

Transmission:
5 Speed O2J Transmission
Peloquin Limited slip Differential
TDI 5th Gear
ECS Stage 1 Clutch
ECS 14lb Steel Flywheel
Verdict Motorsport Aluminum Bracket Bushings
OEM Audi TT Shift Linkage

Suspension:
Rokkor Coilovers
Neuspeed 25mm Front Sway Bar
Neuspeed 28mm Rear Sway Bar
Neuspeed 4 Point Rear Strut Bar
Eurosport Front Lower Stress bar
RSD Polished Front Strut Bar
Powerflex Front Subframe Mount Bushings
Powerflex Front Wishbone Front Bushings
Powerflex Front Wishbone Rear Bushings
Powerflex Power Steering Rack Bushings
Powerflex Rear Beam Bushings
Prothane Rear Engine Mount Poly Inserts
VF MK3 Front Motor Mount
VF MK3 Transmission Mount

Wheels:
Schmidt One Piece Modernlines
Front= 16X9 et25 Falken Ziex ZE-512 215/40ZR-16 XL 86W
Rear= 16X9 et30 17mm spacer Falken Ziex ZE-512 215/40ZR-16 XL 86W

Brakes:
Front:
Corrado Lucas 54 Calipers
11" OEM axially vented Rotors
Stainless Steel Lines
EBC Red Stuff Pads
Rear:
MK2 Rear Caliper Conversion
Zimmerman Drilled Rotors
Stainless Steel Lines
EBC Red Stuff Pads

Interior:
20th AE GTI Dash, Cluster, and Center Console
20th AE GTI Steering Wheel
20th AE GTI Shift Knob, Boot, and Parking Brake Cover
20th AE GTI Radio Cage w/ OEM Double Din Radio, Aluminum Trim, and Number Plate
New South Performance Indigo Boost Gauge w/ Offset Column Pod
New South Performance Indigo Oil Pressure and Temperature Gauge w/ Dual A-Pillar Pod 

Exterior:
Front and Rear Euro Small Bumpers
Dual Round Badgeless Grill
Clear Lights
Hella 550 Yellow Fog Lights


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## skywalkersgti (Mar 27, 2007)

breathtaking.... the whole thread.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Thanks for that. I pulled the wiper assembly and reversed an actuator and the wipers were fixed. I took it to its first GTG, a 100 mile round trip today and it ran great there and back. I was even cruising with cruise control. Took it up to a 100 mph and it felt nice and smooth. Forgot to mention that when I got it aligned, the camber on the front passenger wheel was at -2. No explanation that I could find either. Does anybody know what could cause that?


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## JettaG60MK2Rider (Feb 13, 2005)

Batrugger said:


> Thanks for that. I pulled the wiper assembly and reversed an actuator and the wipers were fixed. I took it to its first GTG, a 100 mile round trip today and it ran great there and back. I was even cruising with cruise control. Took it up to a 100 mph and it felt nice and smooth. Forgot to mention that when I got it aligned, the camber on the front passenger wheel was at -2. No explanation that I could find either. Does anybody know what could cause that?


from ur pics it looks like the original 4lug setup. likely when the suspension was changed. i always have trouble getting the camber just right.

P.S dope ass swap:thumbup:


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Ok thanks, I am going to get some camber bolts to change it at the struts. Hopefully it will fix it. Yesterday I got together with Toby who is MÄDDNESSS on the forum. He brought out his welder to help me try and get the MKIV door latches installed:










Alot of stuff is controlled through this module. It turns the lights on and primes the fuel pump when you open the door. It will also allow me to use the factory lock features and alarm. The door latches on the MKIV are mounted on the inside of the door jamb while the MK2 has them mounted on the outside. The idea I had to do this was to swap out the area on the door jamb where the latches mount. First I went out the donor shell and cut out the area of the door jamb that the latch bolts into:



















I cut out a lot to be sure we had enough to work with. Next we needed to cut the area on the MK2 door to fit the latch in the door. We traced it out and after several test fits we found that a lot had to be removed to clear the window track and allow it to fit:



















We then attached the latch to the panel from the MKIV and test fitted it to see if it fit. After some trimming we ended up with this:



















The the door jamb on the body of the car needed to be modified too and have the post from the MKIV added:










Once everything lined up, the panel was secured and the latch functions perfectly. We still need to clean it all up and mold in the panel so it looks clean. I also need to figure out to hook the door handle to the cable to open it from the outside, but it should be pretty simple.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I had a cat back exhaust fabricated. 2.5in with a magnaflow and resonator: 










Now the tip is centered in the cut out and it has a little more flow. I also changed up the front grill: 










I also have some crosshair headlights and red/clear tails on the way from TM Tuning. I took it out on a 300 mile road trip yesterday and was able to stop by the Vista Sonic GTG. dsm1983 took these shots there: 




























Tomorrow I go to LA to see eurocabi for some fender rolling and stance :thumbup: More pics to come.


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## syracusegli (Jan 22, 2005)

nothing like a crap load of work.. all for nice locking doors


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Yesterday I took a trip down to LA to see eurocabi for some fender rolling. He does great work at a great price. I finally got my drop done: 



















It could go lower, but here is my driveway that I need to negotiate every time it goes out: 




























and just cause I love it, my wife's MINI doing the same:


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## dckeener (Jan 10, 2005)

Looks good. Glad to see it can handle a 300 mile road trip with no problems. :thumbup:


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Took it into an AC shop today and had the system checked for leaks, vacuumed, and then filled. Surprisingly it was all good to go and now I have AC just in time for the hot weather. Since last time I posted, I got my cross hair headlights, red/clear euro taillights, and clear side marker lights so all of the lighting is finished now. I managed to get a hold of all of the interior switches and lights so I will be trying to figure out how to get it all to work with the MKIV harness and try to figure out how to make door panels that will work.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I went to a local car show today. The car show was pretty cool. Lot's of good old American iron and muscle and a couple of sweet air- cooled VW's and then me. There were no other foreign cars of any kind there. I was in the "90's and up" and "Under Construction " categories. I got a lot of positive feedback on the car and most people said they had never even seen a modified water-cooled VW. I tightened up a few things since I last checked in. Red striped the bumpers, added dual tips to the exhaust, got the fog lights straightened out, got a hold of a new rear emblem, and got a few small parts painted in Inaris Silber. I think the Eurotrash plate is appropriate and represents the spirit of the build. It sure is what I felt like at the car show. Here is how it is looking all cleaned up with a little bit of new paint:










Look close and you can see the lower valence painted along with the lower grill strip. Gives a small idea of what it will all look like painted. I really like this color:









The Inaris Silber looks hot with the bay color:









When you have a hot rod builder do your paint, you end up with pinstripes:









I also got a sunroof assembly from a VW Quantum which tilts and slides instead of just sliding like the GTI's sunroof. I had it painted and then added a new seal and now I can install it:









Some old Monza exhaust tips:


















Some random shots:


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## nnamssorxela (Jul 19, 2009)

This thing is going to look unreal when painted!!! :thumbup:


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Yeah I am really excited about the color. I just wish it was sooner instead of later.


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## koko5869 (Feb 15, 2006)

still following this.
still impressed by everything.
keep up with the good work. definitely going to look awesome when its done.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Thanks


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## MOTA BOY (Aug 21, 2007)

:thumbup: Great work!


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

My 04 Jetta GLI with a KO4-001 turbo swap had to be smogged this year for the first time. With this car and my wife's MINI needing the "special smog test" I decided to strip it down to look OEM and run it through. I pulled all of the obvious parts off so it would look OEM and took it in for the test and it failed because of the 2.5 inch TT downpipe I have. I have an OEM downpie on this car and I decided that if I am going to go to all of the trouble to swap downpipes, I might as well swap everything and bring the GLI back to stock so I don't have to worry about smogging it again. So what that means is this car is going to get a Kinetic exhaust manifold, KO4-001 turbo, and a 2.5 inch TT downpipe. Since I can't swap ECUs and I have APR on this car, I will just add APR's KO4 file to the ECU. At least they throw all of the other programs in for $200 total. All the APR requires is a 4bar FPR too so I can ditch the 3 inch MAF that has been a pain in the ass to deal with. I will also ditch the SAI, N249, PCV and Evap to really clean up the bay. Here is a dyno from my Jetta so this should be fun in the lighter car:


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## xtremebeastbeatr (Feb 24, 2008)

Finally got through reading every single post in this build thread, took four days but i got there. Simply ridiculous!! Amazing work, clean, OEM, have yet to see someone build a car with this much attention to detail. And the amount of info you put in your write-ups helps me with my swap more than you can imagine!! 

I'll be looking for more good work in the future:thumbup:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

gonna be suppperr fukn nice once it's "all done" cos you know it never is!!


outfuknstanding work sir!!!:beer::beer:


RLTW


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Vegeta Gti said:


> gonna be suppperr fukn nice once it's "all done" cos you know it never is!!
> 
> 
> outfuknstanding work sir!!!:beer::beer:
> ...


Thanks, no it never is.



xtremebeastbeatr said:


> Finally got through reading every single post in this build thread, took four days but i got there. Simply ridiculous!! Amazing work, clean, OEM, have yet to see someone build a car with this much attention to detail. And the amount of info you put in your write-ups helps me with my swap more than you can imagine!!
> 
> I'll be looking for more good work in the future:thumbup:


Thanks, I was hoping that this would help others and I learned a lot from this myself.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Pulled the turbo, exhaust manifold, and downpipe today. I also decided to remove some stuff to clean up the engine bay some more:










Hard to believe all of this is in there just for pollution control. Tomorrow I will pull the parts off of the Jetta to swap onto the GTI.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I finished getting everything off of both cars today. I only broke one exhaust stud and stripped one bolt. Both were easy to get out and replace though. Unfortunately the Kinetic high flow exhaust manifold has a crack where the turbo mounts. Explains the exhaust leak I had on my Jetta. I am going to see if it can be repaired tomorrow, but if not, I still have the OEM manifold to put on. I also have some oil leaking from the valve cover so I am going to change the gasket. Since I had the intake manifold and valve cover off, I dropped them off at the polisher for a refresh. Hopefully I will have it all reassembled by Wednesday so I can get it ready to go to Vegas.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Got everything on minus the Kinetic manifold, too many cracks. Got to Vegas this weekend despite some electrical problems and a broken oil pan. Worked on the car the whole time during Wuste and missed most of the show. I added an 034 Motorsports catch can drain flange to the new oil pan to go with my PCV delete. . Stopped by Eurotek Tuning in Vegas on the way home and got the APR update for the KO4 along with every other program they have. Car spikes to 24lbs and then holds at 20lbs and it is crazy fast to drive now. Here is a pre Wuste pic:


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## MOTA BOY (Aug 21, 2007)

:thumbup:


Videoooo!


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## StealthVento (Sep 19, 2004)

Nice work. This car has really gone through a transformation. It must be a blast to drive. I have one question though. Where did you get your A pillar guage pod? Thanks


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

StealthVento said:


> Nice work. This car has really gone through a transformation. It must be a blast to drive. I have one question though. Where did you get your A pillar guage pod? Thanks


 Thanks, it was in the classifieds. I don't know who makes it though. There isn't any type of ID on it.


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## khemiicalz (Mar 25, 2009)

i think i read somewhere that this swap was california ref/smoged?

any tips ?


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

khemiicalz said:


> i think i read somewhere that this swap was california ref/smoged?
> 
> any tips ?


That was the intent, but when my 04 Jetta failed smog because of its TT downpipe, I swapped it and the KO4 turbo with this car and deleted all of the pollution control stuff to clean up the bay. I never figured out how to incorporate the leak detection pump which was the big reason it didn't get reffed.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Finally got some video:


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

I added a couple of little details to the engine. Acorn nuts on the valve cover:










and some braided lines:


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## khemiicalz (Mar 25, 2009)

Batrugger said:


> That was the intent, but when my 04 Jetta failed smog because of its TT downpipe, I swapped it and the KO4 turbo with this car and deleted all of the pollution control stuff to clean up the bay. I never figured out how to incorporate the leak detection pump which was the big reason it didn't get reffed.


ohh ok, im doing the same swap down here, did you have a check list or website with the rules to follow?, will this be a weekend toy? its pretty hard not to get spotted by police in socal


great work!!, and thanks for taking the time to write a thread:beer::beer:


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## CA Solt (Feb 23, 2003)

*coil pack harness cover*

I really admire your work here. I've got this thread on my subscribed list, too.

*Question*: where did you source that *coil pack harness cover* - I trolled the thread between pg. 4 & 5 where the covers appear and missed your description of that upgrade....

can you throw a dog a bone?

Thanks.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

khemiicalz said:


> ohh ok, im doing the same swap down here, did you have a check list or website with the rules to follow?, will this be a weekend toy? its pretty hard not to get spotted by police in socal
> 
> 
> great work!!, and thanks for taking the time to write a thread:beer::beer:


Thanks, I daily drive this car right now and with the hood on it really doesn't even get looked at. The basic premise for certification is that it has to be a newer engine and all of the original equipment needs to be used and be functional and no check engine lights. Front mount intercooler is okay, but anything pre turbo must be OEM. I actually went down to a ref station and talked to them about it and they were pretty helpful. The inspections are free too, so you can go in as much as you need to. It also soesnt need to pass smog for the inspection. They don't even do that there.



CA Solt said:


> I really admire your work here. I've got this thread on my subscribed list, too.
> 
> *Question*: where did you source that *coil pack harness cover* - I trolled the thread between pg. 4 & 5 where the covers appear and missed your description of that upgrade....
> 
> ...


Thanks, the harness cover is a OEM MKV part for 2.0T


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## CA Solt (Feb 23, 2003)

*harness*



Batrugger said:


> Thanks, the harness cover is a OEM MKV part for 2.0T



Alright, Thanks tons!


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Not a lot going on right now with the Golf. I was working on the wife's MINI to get it ready for the Big SoCal Euro GTG. I did a lot of polish and chrome on her engine bay and then we added some gold to her wheels:




























I do have a parking brake on the Golf now. In order for the MKIV center column to work it had to be moved over about an inch and a half. that meant that the cables no longer lined so the bracket had to be moved over. Here is how it was done:










the cable bracket was cut off and a new one was fabricated. I wish I could take credit for it, but it was done by Leet Auto Design in Hesperia who also did the engine bay and steering column fabrication. I also had a few bolts and the hood prop chromed:










and I got rid of the ugly blue coolant cap:










I'll be taking down to San Diego tomorrow for the Big SoCalEuro GTG so if your in the neighborhood come on by and say hi.


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## ratdub (Jan 17, 2005)

any more updates?


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Sure, but since it has all been cosmetic I have been posting it all on the MK2 forum:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4629350-My-MKII-GTI-20V-1.8T-AWP-Swap

Mostly I have just been driving it a lot and it has become my daily driver. I took it to a small track and am finally starting on the door panels and seats. Here's a couple from this weekend at Oktoberfest:


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## mpr3ssiv (May 3, 2011)

nice build!


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Thanks, here are the latest from Bonelli:









































































I am also having the catch can mounted and a MKIV handle grafted in the door today.


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## MOTA BOY (Aug 21, 2007)

:thumbup: Damn goooooood!


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## A2_DeLand (Feb 21, 2005)

Awesome build! I should have went with the dash swap just like you did :thumbup:



Question tho, I was skimming through the threads Pics and I didn't catch a pic of your DP, Did you have any problems with Clearance? I had a 3" DP that I wanted to run but I had to go with the stock one because it wouldn't fit.


Thanks and again Awesome Build! I hope to get my bay cleaned up as nice as yours! :beer:


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

A2_DeLand said:


> Awesome build! I should have went with the dash swap just like you did :thumbup:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks, I started with the stock DP, but when I added the KO4 I went to a TT 2.5in DP. It did need to be modified to fit since it was sitting right against the tunnel.


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## A2_DeLand (Feb 21, 2005)

I see  looks like ima have to bring it to an exhaust shop and see what we can work up. Thanks A Lot!


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

MKIV door handle tack welded and working:










Unfortunately at the beginning of all of this I wasn't going to use it so I sold the lock cylinder. VW will sell me one with a key matched to the car for $198. Since I only have one key and I get a 25% discount, I will probably go ahead and do it so I have a spare key and I will be able to lock the car finally. I bought my catch can back in early June and could not figure out a way to mount it so it would look good. It really just looked cluttered in there and the hoses for it looked sloppy compared to everything else. Well I finally figured out a way to make it work. Here it is mounted and ready to go to the polisher:



















With the AN fittings welded to it I will be able to plumb it in using braided lines with polished ends. I finally got my custom plate too:










Funny thing is I ordered this back in July and it took this long, but the euro plate took just 9 days to come from Germany :sly:


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Well I didn't make it to Dubfest today, but I got some more done on my car. I finally got the braided lines and AN fittings together to hook up the catch can:



















I am going to pull it all off tomorrow and have it all polished. I also got rid of a big eye-sore in the bay:










I got the billet power steering reservoir installed. Why delete the power steering when it can look so good.


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## groundupjetta (Feb 1, 2010)

It does look good, nice work :thumbup:


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Myliljettatoy said:


> It does look good, nice work :thumbup:


Thanks, I actually pulled the PCV lines and catch can off and took them to the polisher yesterday. He smoothed everything up and it is all looking even better now. No more rough welds and all the fittings are shiny .


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## mpr3ssiv (May 3, 2011)

dang man great job with the build, love that mk4 dash swap u did, ive been really considering doing that to my gti after im done with the aba 16vt. how hard would you say it is to do the dash swap? was there a lot of cutting and welding involved? how long did it take you?


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

mpr3ssiv said:


> dang man great job with the build, love that mk4 dash swap u did, ive been really considering doing that to my gti after im done with the aba 16vt. how hard would you say it is to do the dash swap? was there a lot of cutting and welding involved? how long did it take you?


Thanks, honestly I didn't do the fabricaton for the dash swap so I can't really give you a lot of the details. I kow you take the dash support from the MKIV and cut away the MK2 dash support so that it will fit in the MK2. Once you get that in there, peel the vinyl back from the back of the mkIV dash and start trimming until it fits right and then you will be able to bolt it in with the factory hardware. You will need to customize the door cards too. This might help you out:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ets-a-1.8T&p=67562782&viewfull=1#post67562782


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## koko5869 (Feb 15, 2006)

Batrugger said:


> Mod list and added to first post:
> 
> 1990 Volkswagen GTI
> 
> ...


I'm not sure if you even want to keep track :laugh:, but any idea ballpark how much money you're into the project?


Sent from my pocket transformer communication device.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

koko5869 said:


> I'm not sure if you even want to keep track :laugh:, but any idea ballpark how much money you're into the project?
> 
> 
> Sent from my pocket transformer communication device.


I started to keep track and had a spreadsheet. I was going to try and do it for as little money as possible and I was doing pretty well selling and trading what I didn't need. Once I pulled the old motor and decided to paint the bay, it just got out of hand. Bodywork, paint, polish, chrome, powder coating, upholstery, and fabrication I estimate is right around $4K. Then there are the wheels, engine bolt-ons, and all of the new parts like bumpers, grill, lights, motor mounts, poly-bushings, etc, so the total is probably north of $7K.


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## koko5869 (Feb 15, 2006)

I'm glad you strayed from the least amount of money possible. 
That just gets you a mediocre car at best. You are well beyond mediocre sir :thumbsup:


Sent from my pocket transformer communication device.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

koko5869 said:


> I'm glad you strayed from the least amount of money possible.
> That just gets you a mediocre car at best. You are well beyond mediocre sir :thumbsup:
> 
> 
> Sent from my pocket transformer communication device.


Thanks, I'm a little stalled right now. Looks like I need to replace the brake master cylinder and I am just avoiding the headliner and door panels. Money is always the issue too and this car needs a lot of bodywork before I can even think about getting it painted. I am just trying to chip away at it little by little though.


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## molichers1 (Feb 6, 2012)

*dash mk2*

hi do you still have the dash I'm interested i live in mexico how much with shipping


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

get rid of those pulleys..their horrible on cranks. 

nice car. i wanna obliterate you if we ever move to NorCal liek my wife wants to do:beer:


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

molichers1 said:


> hi do you still have the dash I'm interested i live in mexico how much with shipping


 I have no dashes for sale



Vegeta Gti said:


> get rid of those pulleys..their horrible on cranks.
> 
> nice car. i wanna obliterate you if we ever move to NorCal liek my wife wants to do:beer:


Thanks, Haven't heard of any issues with the pullies. I have had the same pullies on my 04 GLI for over 60k miles and no issues. I wouldn't think that there would be a problem because the OEM pulley doesn't seem to have any dampening.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

it's actually the fact that unless you cut your fly wheel weight by 80% those loightweight pulleys are throwing off the balance on your crank from one end to the next.

they have caused issues over time, i have seen it at the dealer, in the aftermarket and on my own. 

the oem crank is dampened, and the others are weighted and balanced for the weight of the clutch/pp/flywheel. a lightened flywheel wont cause much harm because it is the heavy end. just looking out for a homie.

car is niiccee. how is CA smog and such treating you? i can imagine i would get shafted, as we have nothing for smog and opening the engine bay is unheard of here in HI


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Thanks the flywheel went down to 14 lbs, but I guess that isn't close to 80%. Ca smog is same as it always has been, but there are always ways to get it done.


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## jettag60 (Nov 2, 2005)

hell of a build man, very well done


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Thanks. I am continuing the build here on the MK2 forum:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4629350-My-MKII-GTI-20V-1.8T-AWP-Swap/page14


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