# Engine TDC / Timing Belt Change



## EnduringCactus (Dec 20, 2009)

Hi All,
I went to the dealer and shop to figure out what was causing a horrible grinding noise in my motor. They said it was probably the "cam adjusters" and said $1,700, maybe more. Additionally, the thermostat is stuck open, there is a leak coming from somehwere in the front of the motor, and the power steering is leaking. They asked for another $1,300 to fix that. Car has 187K miles and is 2000 model.
So I decided to try the work myself figuring that I it all away if I screw-up.
So far so good.

1.The seal on the water pump was leaking and I replaced the water pump. $95.
2. Replaced thermostat. $25.
3. Timing belt 'passive' pulley destroyed, was causing the noise. Tensioner piston not working. Ordered kit $200.
When I removed the timing belt I lined up the TDC marker on the crankshaft pulley with the mark on the housing. In this position, the two camshaft sprockets have a set of holes that should be in-line with each other (horizontal) and the two larger holes face inward toward each toher. I noticed these were about 5 degrees counter clockwise from each other--not on a horizontal line. I figure this does not matter much as the motor ran fine before.
However after I removed the timing belt the left cam sprocket made a pop and moved about 30 degrees off of where it was. I figure I can just rotate it back to where it was when I install the timing belt.
But it all makes me a little uneasy. Does anyone know what I would need to do to get everything to line-up the way it is supposed to. The question is how do I ensure the motor is TDC, get the cam mark to line up and have the sprockets perfect in horizontal plane?
Thanks in advance, This forum is great and has, so far, inspired me to save money and try the job myself.
EC,


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## tryin2vw (Dec 30, 2006)

*Re: Engine TDC / Timing Belt Change (EnduringCactus)*

You were minutes away from a total top end head rebuild costing 3-$4000 on your car.
There are two tools that are needed for you to be successful These tools are not available at the store, but should be purchased from online sources or borrowed from parts suppliers (Blau or ECS Tuning) or other members of the various forums. First is the crank pin tool that locks the crankshaft into the TDC position. Second is the cam bar. It locks into the holes in the plates on the cams to properly align them cams at TDC. TDC is on cylinder 3.
With the cam bar and crank pin in place, the sprockets on the cam will to be popped off with a gear puller. It takes some force, but can be done with a standard 3 jaw puller. Loosen the bolt holding the cam sprocket on the taper by about 1/4 inch and use the bolt head for the bearing point of the gear puller. It will be hard and sudenly will let go with a loud bang. If you remove the bolt from the center of the cam, the whole thing will fly off.
See this write-up:
http://phatcat_ed.tripod.com/V6.htm
Added information

_Modified by tryin2vw at 7:31 AM 12-20-2009_


_Modified by tryin2vw at 8:56 AM 12-20-2009_


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## EnduringCactus (Dec 20, 2009)

*Re: Engine TDC / Timing Belt Change (EnduringCactus)*

Thanks for the post.
I fashioned the tool out of a 2x4 and re-aligned the cam sprocket holes to where they were.
On Tuesday I will put the timing belt on and then crank (manually) the cam shaft and see if there is any binding, noise, or other trouble signs.
The question is if the cams are not in alignment--assume I screwed it up already--how can I tell. And more importantly how would I fix the problem?
EC


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## tryin2vw (Dec 30, 2006)

*Re: Engine TDC / Timing Belt Change (EnduringCactus)*

You probably did not screw up yet. When the engine is back together, then rotate the crank by hand using a 15/16 12 point socket on the crank nut turning in the CW direction. Rotate the crank at least two complete revolutions by hand. If you can do that with no binding, then you may be OK. This presumes the OD of the Tensioner, Idler and the Water pump pulleys are all exactly the same diameter as the original.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

*Re: Engine TDC / Timing Belt Change (tryin2vw)*

as long as you put it back together in time, you wont have any issues.


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## EnduringCactus (Dec 20, 2009)

*Re: Engine TDC / Timing Belt Change (Slimjimmn)*

Thank you all for your input. I just ordered the part 3242 to lock the cam shaft. I will install timing belt and then do the crankshaft rotations per advice above, looking for binding. If all goes well then I will lock at TDC and see how alignment looks on the cam sprockets. They started about 5 degrees out of whack (TY to mechanic who did the work at 100K miles). If it looks good I can do the following double checl.
Crank the crankshaft and check compression on each cylinder to make sure each one is hitting at 120 degrees of rotation from the TDC mark.
I assume if it all checks out then I can hit the starter.
I want to thank this forum for the inspiration to try this myself. Not being very mechanical, it's been quite an adventure! And if it all works then I saved a huge amount of money.
I will let you all know what happens.
EC


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## VDubGTi08 (Jan 31, 2008)

*Re: Engine TDC / Timing Belt Change (EnduringCactus)*

If you want to be 100% sure that your timing is correct you should pull the valve covers and count the links/check the timing of the cams on each cylinder bank. Once the cams are properly timed lock them in place using the camshaft bar. Lay your belt over the gears, tension properly, and turn the motor over 2 or 4 times. Lock the crank at TDC, make sure you can install the camshaft bar and check the marking on each cam under the valve cover. If everything looks good your g2g.


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## EnduringCactus (Dec 20, 2009)

*Re: Engine TDC / Timing Belt Change (EnduringCactus)*

So I got the belt on, everything aligned.
When I manually crank the crankshaft i hear hissing noises was each piston moves. But I also hear some clicking noises, which I assume are valves popping open and closed. This makes me nervous.
Thoughts?
Thanks.
EC


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

*Re: Engine TDC / Timing Belt Change (EnduringCactus)*

Without actually hearing it, I can't say for sure, but yes, it should make hissing/groaning and clicking noises. If you followed GTi08's procedure, I don't see how there can be any problem.


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## litesleeper (Sep 19, 2009)

*Re: Engine TDC / Timing Belt Change ()*

If the spark plug are out when you rotate by hand, there should not be popping noises.


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## EnduringCactus (Dec 20, 2009)

*Engine TDC / Timing Belt Change (litesleeper)--Status Update*

So I got everything put back together and the car runs really rough (no surprises there!). I broke some of the brittle crankshaft breather hoses in the process of taking the valve cover on and off. Tomorrow I get them and will see if that helps the motor run better.
The motor is running too rich. Rough idle. Low power. Less rough at 70 m.ph.
The telling sign is that the driver side spark plugs are fouled (black) but the passenger side is clean (whitish). It's brand new plugs since the TB replacement.
This makes me think I have the driver side cams off a notch (or more). I wish I knew which direction that would be (clockwise, or counter clockwise). I thought the alignment of the timing ovals was perfect.
It's going to be a pain in the a## to take everything apart again. But then I learned so much about my motor that it's really worth it. Knowledge is power and this effort will save a lot of money in the long run.
I will provide an update on what the replaced breather hoses do. My failures will help someone else in the future.
Thanks again for advice so far.
EC.


_Modified by EnduringCactus at 6:47 PM 12-30-2009_


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