# 2001 Audi TT 180 FWD, engine rebuild w/ big turbo



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Ok guys, I have most of the parts here or are in transit. The motro has been pulled, stripped, and taken to the machine shop. I am aiming for 400hp at the wheels and would like to venture out from there after tuning and reliability have been established in the new engine. Ok I know you are waiting to here specs so here we go.. 

Wiseco pistons and rings- 8.5:1 c/r standard bore 
Eagle rods w/ ARP rod bolts 
All ACL Calico coated bearings 
ARP Head bolts, main bolts, flywheel bolts 
OEM gasket kit 
cylinders and head are being honed and polished- ATC stock head right now but going AEB later 
F1 racing Stage 5 clutch and lightweight flywheel 
rebuilt T3/T4 63 trim turbo 
Tial Wastgate-- waiting to get turbo to determine how much room in the bay for equal length headers.. hence not sure what size wastegate im going with, but going Tial none the less 
630cc Bosch fuel injectors 
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator 
OBX High Flow fuel rail 
Walboro inline fuel pump- just to be safe 
3" custom DP w/o cat- reduced to 2.5" all the way, with a magnaflow muffler 
All new gaskets, hardware, and coolant lines 
Central Vacuum manifold to clean up the engine bay 
battery relocation to the rear 
Ebay FMIC intercooler kit.. upgrading core with Head and intake manifold after car is running 
Oil Catch can-- highly recommend, Pulled my SMIC and hoses off, with nice puddles of oil in the lines 
Plus all the essentials.. timing belt kit, spark plugs (gapped and colder range), etc.. 
SAI and N75 delete 
Manual boost controller 
electronic turbo timer 
Eurodyne Maestro 7 tuning :wave: 



The engine is being cleaned and reassembled by Rice in Oklahoma City. He is going through the block and head, checking all clearances, specs, and reassembling. The crankshaft will be balanced and polished as well.. As of right now my limiting factor on hp is gonna be the head and intake manifold. AFter some saving, I am building a complete head with intake mani. 

Planned mods after block is finished, not set in stone just the general direction I am going, brands could change depending on deals and specials I find before then.. 
AEB head 
007 Large port intake mani 
larger throttle body 
oversized valves 
high rate springs w/ titanium retainers 
Cat cams-- mild grind, still want it somewhat streetable 
NOS wet kit w/ 75 shot and rpm switch 
... considering w/m injection but not sure 

Supposing everything goes according to plan (it never does) this will be the extent of performance mods.. If anyone is interested in stock parts off ATC engine pm me and we can try and work something out.. If you have any suggestions or comments please feel free, I welcome constructive criticism as I want to build a mechanically optimal engine, and am by no means an expert.. Pics will be coming soon.. 

Also, if anyone has weight saving ideas, I am all ears.. (not getting rid of A/C)


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Why lower compression so much? There is no such thing a 63 trim T3/T4, .63 is the exhaust housing A/R. I'd confirm the trim of the turbo before you go any further but a 50 trim sounds like what you want. Why are you going with Eagle rods? Who makes an F1 racing clutch? You don't need a WG bigger than 38mm as 1.8T's are high boost motors. They don't make 007 manifolds anymore do they? And you don't need a 75 shot to hit 400whp. No offense, but your parts list/plans sounds like a Fast'n'Furious ebay shopping spree.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Lower compression= safer to tune with the maestro and if I want to spray had 
Turbo= yes i meant 50 trim with .63 housing 
F1 clutch- leftover from previous build 
eagle rods came as a set with the pistons.. 
38mm wastegate.. yes but there are smaller ones and I am waiting to find the exhaust manifold and size the wastegate to that.. 
the 75 shot is not for the 400 on the dyno, but a just in case fun spray when i feel like it... 
as far as the 007 intake.. I have been trying to find it, it was my first choice, but as i said it wont all go as planned and I am aware that I may have to find a different brand.. 

wouldnt a fast and furious shopping spree be any high hp engine build? 

- the last comment sounded rude.. didnt mean it that way my apologies


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

You just have a lot of brands that aren't commonly used in the 1.8T world. They aren't commonly used for a reason.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

What brands do you mean? Wiseco is well known for pistons, Eagle rods are brand name, ARP, and Tial? The clutch was purchased (very cheaply) from a very good friend locally that has used them before and I have seen the cars run for the money it was definitely worth a shot... 007 intake was on the infamous intake test list.. Walboro, Bosch, and Integrated Engineering? They are well known brands in the 1.8t world. OBX fuel rail was purchased on Ebay, mounted up great to the stock manifold also has no moving parts and mated well with the injectors.. and everyone knows you can run a ebay FMIC, the cores are definitely not the greatest, but as I said, I plan on upgrading with the head and intake mani.. 

In short, I do not see how your claims of an ebay fast and furious shopping spree can be reasonally viewed as valid. Only two items, one of which I have already stated as to knowing I need to upgrade the core, were purchased from ebay. If you wish to attack a certain brand because of personal experience, please, by all means I want to hear it. TO generalize the build as an ebay build, I would harshly argue the underdetermination of that statement


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Nothing wrong with Wiseco, I have them in my stroker. There is no need to lower compression though. I run 10:1 and wouldn't hesistate to spray it. I make more than enough power and don't need to though. In fact, I have a wet kit I've never installed. lol Nothing wrong with Eagle's, I'd just go with a maker that supports our community, meaning IE over them. I run Pauter's in my stroker and IE's in my other motor. No need for ARP head or main bolts to make 400whp, maybe the head bolts if you're spraying. I've always run OEM FW bolts, but it's your money. A quick search on F1 clutches didn't yield many positives, and I'm pretty sure they don't make anything for F1 cars. :laugh: Just seems ricey to me. Yeah, a fuel rail is a fuel rail, but OBX is generic aftermarket stuff, and again, no need for a fuel rail to make 400whp. FMIC is up to you, but as I'm guessing you know, all cores aren't created equal. 38mm WG is fine, you don't need a 44mm gate. 007 intake was great, I had one of the big port versions, but the SEM manifold is better, and good luck finding an 007.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Exactly, I gave the reasoning for testing the F1 knowing it wasnt the best but at the price im willing to give it a shot. So there really isnt any need to make claims of a fast and furious ebay build... 

as for injectors the motor was purchased from someone who blew a hole in one of the pistons, so not knowing the driving conditions, I decided to replace the complete fuel system to take care of any problems that could have caused the problem.. Besides, I wanted room for more if i ever felt the urge :laugh:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

I never said anything about injectors, but you did ignore the rest of what I was saying.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

As stated previously the complete fuel system was upgraded and planned for bigger numbers later  as many other parts.. and i never said anything about a 44mm wastegate.. :screwy: 

as far as c/r.. I like to play with tuning and want to have a safe setup to do that with... As far as supporting this community, i supported my local shops owned by some very wonderful people


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

You asked for suggestions, so I'd assume you'd want opinions from people who have already done it. However, you seem to have it all figured out, so good luck.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

You have given no suggestions, but to say it is an ebay build, and criticize the brand choice.. Instead of discussing the vast mechanical aspects one must consider on a build.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

seth_3515 said:


> You have given no suggestions.





20v master said:


> There is no need to lower compression though. No need for ARP head or main bolts to make 400whp, maybe the head bolts if you're spraying. I've always run OEM FW bolts, *but it's your money*. Yeah, a fuel rail is a fuel rail, but OBX is generic aftermarket stuff, and again, no need for a fuel rail to make 400whp. 38mm WG is fine, you don't need a 44mm gate. 007 intake was great, I had one of the big port versions, but the SEM manifold is better, and good luck finding an 007.


 Those aren't suggestions?


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

You suggested I over built the motor, to me that's a good thing. I appreciate the suggetion of not needing a wastegate > 40mm and i will definitely take that into consideration when picking one out. C/r I understand I could go higher to get everything out of the car, but I was expecting a little rise once mated to the head and will be running 91 pump gas, and was just trying to stay on the safe side when playing with the timing as well. Yes I realize I am some mods weren't needed for my goals, but As I said earlier, I wanted to leave room for more if desired


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## DurTTy (Aug 14, 2007)

cmon guys, .... positive energy is needed here 

Seth, 

im happy you decided to build your car :thumbup: 

whatever you decide to do is unique to you :thumbup: 

some progress reports and some pics to get the thread started would be constructive :thumbup:


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