# DIY Instructions for Timing Belt/Water Pump job



## thoshaw (Jul 17, 2010)

Have 2001 1/2 Passat 4M Wagon with 89k. Well overdue for timing belt job. Feel like I'm rolling dice every time I watch my wife drive away...
Have looked around and the job seems complicated, but doable with a proper procedures documentation and tools (cam lock, crank pin, etc).
Does anyone have the procedure or a link to a good resource? Am not a mechanic, but not afraid to get dirty to same some $$. This car is fantastic, but very complex and expensive to have repaired (stating the obvious, obviously).


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## RosevilleWgn (Dec 12, 2009)

IIRC, that is a 100K service. There is an 80K service as well, ~$500 that includes the serpentine belt. 
I've generally been quoted around $1400 for the timing belt + water pump (Includes labor, obviously).


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

A good kit will come with detailed instructions. Try blauparts or ECS. IIRC, you can rent the locking bar and crank pin from blauparts, but have to buy them from ECS.


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## ismule (Mar 8, 2005)

_This site will give you a heads up on the job. :thumbup:_ 

http://phatcat_ed.tripod.com/V6.htm


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

thoshaw said:


> Have 2001 1/2 Passat 4M Wagon with 89k. Well overdue for timing belt job. Feel like I'm rolling dice every time I watch my wife drive away...
> Have looked around and the job seems complicated, but doable with a proper procedures documentation and tools (cam lock, crank pin, etc).
> Does anyone have the procedure or a link to a good resource? Am not a mechanic, but not afraid to get dirty to same some $$. This car is fantastic, but very complex and expensive to have repaired (stating the obvious, obviously).


 The V6 motor is supposed to have TB changed @ 75K miles..per the sticker that was on my radiator support "Auchtung..Changen Der Toothed Belt @ 75000 miles!"...in 4 languages! 
Complete job should include: 
TB..Duh....Tensioner, tensioner and idler rollers, waterpump, thermostat. Cam seals..if there's any indication of leakage..or even with none!...I'd also change front 'snub motor mount" since you have to pull the front of the car into work shop positon..this part is simple R&R at that point and costs $10 or less...get new "light colored uprated" part if you are goin OEM...more substantial than the older black rubber one...I'd also change serp belt and tensioner..again not much $$ for parts and labor is pretty much covered in TB job. 
Shops around here charge $1200-1500 for this job!...I've been a serious DIY wrench forever, and would not attempt it unless I had Bentley manual (for proper belt tensioning proceedure) and the tool kit from Blauparts!:thumbup: 
PS: Lucky for me...my waterpump crapped out @ 50K miles..due to failed TB tensioner...so I got all done under OE Power Train Warranty...and sold the car last month with 93K miles on it..so I never had to go thru this!..whew!


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## thoshaw (Jul 17, 2010)

Thanks to all for info and advice. After following the link provided by ismule, I can see how the shop justifies the $1500 price tag for this job. I just scored a slightly used (once) ECS Cam Lock tool on Ebay for $45. Think I should've spent that on a Bentley manual which I'll have to get anyway. 

This may be slightly over my head and I'm sure my wife won't tolerate me taking the car apart for a week to _maybe_ do this right, especially after my last fiasco with this car (went to change oil and drained tranny by mistake). :banghead: Anyone browsing this forum might understand what that precipitated. Car has been running fine except for that pesky check engine light. Did I mention I "filled" the oil after draining the tranny and went for a nice test ride?

"Honey", I said: "How long has the car been shifting funny?" When she looked at me like I had 2 heads, I knew I was in trouble!


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## gregthebuc (Sep 26, 2009)

it really isn't a tough job with the corect tools and time. I did mine in one day. Don't forget to bleed the coolant system once done...if you do it will show an overheated conditon due to air in the system. There are two allen screws if I recall on the hard lines by the firewall. Still, if you are not mechnically inclined or do not have the correct tools including the cam lock and engine pin you would be better served to pay a good shop to take care of it for you.


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## The Mailman (Oct 22, 2003)

If you're in NE FL, I'll do it for you for a good price. 

It really isn't too bad though - Blauparts has good instructions - just reread everything line 2-3 times to make sure you fully understand it & take your time. I did my Audi A6 3.0 in two days (waaay more involved than the 2.8) and my sister's 2.8 in less than a day. BUT, if you don't feel confident - don't do it. That tranny mistake could've been expensive, but this WILL be if you're even slightly wrong


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## Jeffus13 (Apr 12, 2009)

*...*

just did mine last week... blau's advanced kit... replaced everything but the crank seal. seems to be running well... mostly back together before i realized i poked a hole in the radiator somewhere down the line... 

new radiator will be here tomorrow... any advice/recommendations/DIY would be appreciated.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

I have a DIY with pictures on here, just do a search for my name with posts and timing belt


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## thoshaw (Jul 17, 2010)

I've searched for your DIY post under slimjimmn with timing belt and cannot locate the post. Would love to review it.


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## Jeffus13 (Apr 12, 2009)

believe he was referring to my radiator issue... 

tb/waterpump is really pretty easy. I highly recommend the Blau kit since you can rent their tool set and they have really nice step by step instructions. I used the PhatKat instructions for this job to get the bumper removed but then switched over to blau instructions for step by step. 

I had done some big jobs on my 78 Ford pickup 15 years ago when i was in highschool but never anything so involved on my passat/jetta... i would place myself as mechanically inclinced and I have a decent sense of paying attention to detail. with the cranknut and the cam bar theres really very little to screw up.

Get a torque wrench if you dont have one though... and a 23mm deep well socket to turn the engine to TDC. Believe these were teh two things i had to run out and get before i started. 

Im a couple hours south of D.C. if your in the area i can always help.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

I told the moderators to put a sticky on my writeup...

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4388319-v6-t-belt-job-(w-o-front-end-removal!!!)


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## scurt (Aug 27, 2010)

I will be replacing my timing belt here shortly. Should I get the kit with the tensioning damper and relay tensioning lever? I don't know if those are necessary... may be worth while though.


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## Jeffus13 (Apr 12, 2009)

for the extra couple bucks adn the piece of mind knowing you have replaced as much as possible in there i think its worth it... ofc everyone has an opinion =]


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

relay lever is not necessary unless broken or stuck, hyd dampner yes!


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## scurt (Aug 27, 2010)

I paid the extra few bucks... the piece of mind will be worth it.

Another quick question for you guys.. I almost have the front end off, the only things left are the four torx bolts on either side of the radiator. My instructions are saying I need to thread in a 3366 tool. I thought this tool was just for the cam?


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## tryin2vw (Dec 30, 2006)

Threading in the tool keeps the crankshaft at TDC


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## scurt (Aug 27, 2010)

The instructions where off. this was just to slide the radiator on. I just took it off.

When I am trying to get it at TDC, the two larger holes on the cam's are lining up, but my mark on the crank is about 3/8" too far. I am thinking it's OK hopefully i'm not wrong


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## tryin2vw (Dec 30, 2006)

Check the idler roller when you get things apart.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

no reason to remove the front end when doing this job... unless you have LOTS of extra time on your hands...


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## scurt (Aug 27, 2010)

I will check that. 

Slimjimm; it really only took about an hour and I think it will be worth it. I have been doing a little bit at a time this week, and i'll really get into starting tomorrow. but on the a4 there really does not seem to be too much room.


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## tryin2vw (Dec 30, 2006)

Hopefully your timing belt kit included the water pump (metal impeller preferred), hydraulic tensioner, tensioner roller, idler roller and timing belt at at minimum. If you have the cam bar/crank pin, do the cam seals as well, the crank seal is not as important if it is not leaking. Since the front is in service position, change the snub mount, serpentine tensioner and belt as it is easiest now.


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## scurt (Aug 27, 2010)

Yeah I will be doing all of the good stuff.. This is the kit I bought http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=GH21112-1A 

It's been a late start, better get out there before noon


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