# My MK3 2 Door GTi Syncro Swap/Setup Build Thread



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

04/04/2013
The pictures were on an old computer and Apple, being the crappy company that they are, deleted everything because well Apple does what Apple wants, at the expense of their customers (which I am no longer.

You can find what was stuck in the Google cache here ( https://plus.google.com/photos/111558677186659133355/albums/5863000111271013857 ) They aren't big. They aren't originals but it's better than nothing.



If you want that back story, read on.
I hope this can stick in here since it is a syncro but I thought i would put together a build thread.
Long story short, when I was young and dumb I paid Matrix Engineering to swap a 24v 3.1 Liter Syncro into my Mk3 GTi and this was in about 2000 before the R32 was even heard of. Well they were kind enough to front a lot of the money since they planned to get into magazines with it, but the build too 3, yes count it, 3 years and I finally told them I was picking it up (Im in WI they are in WASHINGTON).
They were kind enough to pick the car up on one of their road trips, but long story short was, I had no tuning done to the thing due to running out of time, there where a few loose bolts when i went home. There was no gas gauge, no e-brake, and maybe, if I am lucky, 100 ftlbs of torque.
Well the darn winters ate that car to crap, so now I am swapping it over to a clean MK3 shell. I dont want a "Fuel cell" since they cant survive around here and I want to do it on my own, since it looks like a not so difficult swap. I've never welded a thing in my life, but that isnt going to stop me. 
I picked up a welder new 








Here is the floor pan of the shell it's going into
































Got the floor pan cut out! 








Here is the car its coming out of








Here is a current pic of my garage (changes yearly)








Here is me working on the old shell Monday(today)








Here is everything pulled up, it was a pain getting this far








Rear diff view with no floor pan








Nothign like good ole rust coming from the "fuel cell" holder








Fuel Cell is out, holy pain in the balls!








This is why I had to drop the fuel cell first








And here it lies in my garage now, ready for clean up


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## yellowslc (Aug 29, 2000)

*Re: My MK3 2 Door GTi Syncro Swap/Setup Build Thread (Zupek)*

Why not order an aluminum can for that bladder? Hell, have someone dupe the original one in stainless if you must. You are far better off with the cell than the oem crap if you intend on any sort of competition driving. 
Good luck with the project.


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: My MK3 2 Door GTi Syncro Swap/Setup Build Thread (yellowslc)*

nope, no such competition driving... its purely a for fun car now... I understand the benefit on the "can" for racing, but im doing no such thing...


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## jettaboy_gtx (Apr 12, 2003)

*Re: My MK3 2 Door GTi Syncro Swap/Setup Build Thread (Zupek)*

fuel cell will also make your swap a bit easier too....


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: My MK3 2 Door GTi Syncro Swap/Setup Build Thread (jettaboy_gtx)*

the whole point in me doing this swap is to have a 100% stock looking car.. and it would be nice to last more then 1 wisconsin winter, if it had to.
Plus I alreday have a mk3 syncro gas tank... so it should make it pretty simple..


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: My MK3 2 Door GTi Syncro Swap/Setup Build Thread (Zupek)*

Today I played with the welder and since I've only welded 1 other time, i wanted to weld some lines that I cut in my rear floor pan that I didnt need.








Other then that, I have started to clean up the rust from the rear beam, but I couldnt find a good solution. Stopped by Sears and they have a 40grit abrasive pad for my 4.5 in angle grinder... perfect! But its late so I cant work on it until tomorrow... so until then!


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: My MK3 2 Door GTi Syncro Swap/Setup Build Thread (Zupek)*

Got the rear suspension/beam separated so I can clean it up and paint but, but I ran into a little problem








This bolt, wont budge. It's completely seized to the bushing. Besides melting it, what are my other options? Right now I can get enough leverage on it, but it just turns the bushing... Options, Ideas?
If I have to get new bushings, any idea where I can get some poly urethane bushings for the body mounts?








And here is an overview shot of the brakes, rotors, and arm off... still chuggin away. A couple hours a night, really isnt enough!


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## <Owen> (Mar 6, 2008)

*FV-QR*

hot damn zupek!








i didnt know you had another mk3! 
everyone I've ridden in his 24v syncro'd gti before and I have to say, that car is *no joke!* should be even more so with the swap onto the clean shell.
good luck with this, looking forward to seeing it later this spring http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## notajetta (Nov 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (M3NTAL)*

"unexciting"? what are you talking about Zupek?















for some reason i didn't have the full picture of what you're up to until now... i can't wait to see this thing! keep up the good work!


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (M3NTAL)*


_Quote, originally posted by *M3NTAL* »_hot damn zupek!








i didnt know you had another mk3! 
everyone I've ridden in his 24v syncro'd gti before and I have to say, that car is *no joke!* should be even more so with the swap onto the clean shell.
good luck with this, looking forward to seeing it later this spring http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

I believe that was a 12v at the time. the 24v down has been out of commission for some time


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## silverKo4S4WI (Aug 26, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Zupek)*

Zoinks! Looks like a good project. Good luck!


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## <Owen> (Mar 6, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Zupek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Zupek* »_
I believe that was a 12v at the time. the 24v down has been out of commission for some time

















it was the side exit that fooled me


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## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (M3NTAL)*

giggity, get outside and get crackin.


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (scirockin16v)*

im still at work sitting around doing nothing. I can pretty much leave whenever I want... but still. i need the cash. Seems stupid since the Federal Reserve (private bank) just said they were giving out $1,200,000,000,000 to fix what cant be fixed...


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## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Zupek)*

thats alot of zeros. too bad it probably wont fix an effing thing!


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## djshortbus1.8T (Mar 21, 2003)

*FV-QR*

I am unable to build right now so I will just watch others(like yourself) build fun stuff.


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (djshortbus1.8T)*

So the goal today was to leave work early, but that was a big no no as idiot A called and I walked her through some phone computer stuff, which took 2 hours... but I did get to work on it.
I forgot that I have to measure the gastank first, so ripping the suspension parts apart to clean them up, is a stupid thing to do until I can get the floor pan situated and the fuel tank in (mk3 SYNCRO fuel tank, not avail in the U.S.).
Here the suspension is bolt up, tighted up and just about where it would sit normally...








Here is the spindle lining up in the wheel well








I have some trimming/grinding to do as there isn't much clearance between the gas tank and the frame. Looks like every MM counts








Here I am having some issue's trying to figure out where the gastank is going to sit. I still have to worry about the bumper cover being installed, but trimming the bottom of that wont be difficult








And here is something else that is a bit tricky to think about... the filler neck. I don't know how much clearance is supposed to be there, but as the pictures sat, this was the gap between the frame and the filler nozzle
















Oh and today's is my dog TURBO's actual birthday (in human years) He turns 9 and is the complete devil... 










_Modified by Zupek at 12:13 AM 3-23-2009_


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

Well I found those poly urethane bushings I was looking for. They are expensive... $160 for the control arms, $95 for the rear beam. For reference you can find them here http://www.powerflex.co.uk/pro....html


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: (Zupek)*

Weekend update!
Okay I fitting the gastank into the correct position and welded some seems. here is where the final area is going to sit, so I can get markings to start welding...
Overview








Clearance 








Backend clearance 








Due to the mk3 syncro gas tank having a "reserve" type area, that sits above the rear diff, i had to make sure there was clearance for 1) the drive train movement and 2) the diff is about an 1inch lower then where it will sit when it loaded.
















This is showing the form of the support bar that would normally be there if the rear pan was a stock mk3 syncro floor pan. This is where I need to weld a beam to hold the gas tank support straps, since I dont have that floorpan








This is showing that the fill nozzle is in the correctly place where the tank sits right now








This is showing the clearance "behind" the gas tank. I wanted to make sure that vibration wouldn't rip a hole in the tank at all.








This is the filler neck and frame clearance








I took the tank out measured where the hold straps will be going to on the FRONT REAR H-BEAM and welded the bolts on for threads/studs








This is used show that I took account for the shape of the frame. This would be upside down and for the passenger side. 








Before removing the gas tank, I measured 19in from the end of the frame to the "rail bend" in the gas tank. These are the marks so I know where the center is and to keep the FRONT REAR H-BEAM STRAIGHT
















FRONT REAR H-BEAM is in and half way welded








And a close up of the welding on the bar thus far








What's next? I have to finish welding the FRONT REAR H-BEAM to the frame, then clean up the REAR REAR H-BEAM from welding spots, mark them, weld the bolts/studs for the gas tanks straps and then get them in. 
Once that is completed I have to test fit the tank w/ straps, load the rear drive line and measure for the rear diff mounting that goes to the FRONT REAR H-BEAM, which is why I had to remove the fuel cell for










_Modified by Zupek at 12:04 AM 3-23-2009_


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## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

*Re: (Zupek)*

nice scott, keep on it.....


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## <Owen> (Mar 6, 2008)

*FV-QR*


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (M3NTAL)*

Got the rear beam measured up, cut, marked and welded in...
This is showing the end cap I had to weld to the end of the bar because it was a little short.








This is the bar in, completely welded with the gas tank in. 








I have removed the gas tank and have loaded the rear diff to center. now I need to measure the bars for the back support on the rear diff. Need some 3/4 square tubing, which I dont believe they make, so it will have to be 1/2 w/ a flat piece welded to it. Thats on tomorrow's list... before LOST


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Zupek)*

okay boys and girls, I got the rear diff back support mocked up, welded and fitted.








Loosened the jack and the diff didn't sag or move at all.... yay!


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## djshortbus1.8T (Mar 21, 2003)

*FV-QR*

Good work Zupek! can't wait to see that thing at the spring opener.


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (djshortbus1.8T)*

Don't worry I havent given up, I dusted off the 24v 3.1L from the corner of the garage and need to get the bellhousing and front half of the drive line out of my donor car.
The weather here hasn't really been helping either since it snowed last week and it's supposed to rain the rest of this week. The problem is, my donor car is outside and pulling a trans in the rain... well sucks...
Its raining right now, but I am hoping to pull the transmission out today and I've been cleaning up the valve cover so I can paint it tonight as well.
All the wiring is already pulled out of the Black MK3 (as seen in pictures above).
So once I get that tranny bolted on, I can:
---bolt the engine w/ transmission (no "center diff") into the car
---run the wiring
---set up the external oil cooler and SAI (needs to pass emissions here







), 
---weld in the couplers for the drive shaft
---bolt driveline together to check fitment
---take out the rear drive line, clean it up, paint it black, put it back in ---put on the brakes, put in a stock driver seat
---Weld the top of the floor pan in 
---fill the tank with gas 
---START THE CAR
---take the car of the jack stands
---drive away
---smile
It really isn't that much stuff


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## vdubgti2.0 (Apr 4, 2005)

*FV-QR*

I have now seen the thread and it is true, he is working on it. Looks good fellow Scott Christopher


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## Fallsjetta (Jun 23, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Can't wait to see this thing in action!


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Fallsjetta)*

Painted the tran's and got the timing spot on. As it sits right now the 24v is in the engine bay. I am awaiting my 24v intake manifold to arrive. I have to run the oil cooler and find some AN fittings/couplers for my fuel lines. Either way its getting much closer now.


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Zupek)*

I've been slacking on the PICTURES, because now I am swapping all my 24v 3.1L stuff over to the Mk3 engine bay and have been getting the engine prettied up a bit. This has nothing to do with the drive line, which is the point of this thread. 
I'll post some engine in pictures once I get everything in and back together.


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## DubChub (Nov 19, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Zupek)*

Sweet ish Z... I like.. See you in May?


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## DHill (Jan 8, 2002)

*Re: My MK3 2 Door GTi Syncro Swap/Setup Build Thread (Zupek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Zupek* »_Got the rear suspension/beam separated so I can clean it up and paint but, but I ran into a little problem










Had the same problem. I tried tapping it out, then I soaked it with penetrating oil, tapped some more, then banged away at it, and then finally resorted to the 16 lb sledge and beat the F out of it and still accomplished _nothing_ other than bending the bolt. 
Since it was hosed at that point I took a cut-off wheel to it. When I cut off the head it slipped right out - it was seized on the bushing right next to the head because that is where water can't escape. HTH. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Those bushings are anodized or coated somehow with either a zinc or cadmium electroplating process. In any case the wear inside the bushing rubs that off pretty quick and then it fuses with rust. Haven't seen a much better solution other than total rebuild of the bushings.



_Modified by DHill at 8:00 PM 4-20-2009_


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## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

*Re: My MK3 2 Door GTi Syncro Swap/Setup Build Thread (DHill)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DHill* »_
Had the same problem. I tried tapping it out, then I soaked it with penetrating oil, tapped some more, then banged away at it, and then finally resorted to the 16 lb sledge and beat the F out of it and still accomplished _nothing_ other than bending the bolt. 
Since it was hosed at that point I took a cut-off wheel to it. When I cut off the head it slipped right out - it was seized on the bushing right next to the head because that is where water can't escape. HTH. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Those bushings are anodized or coated somehow with either a zinc or cadmium electroplating process. In any case the wear inside the bushing rubs that off pretty quick and then it fuses with rust. Haven't seen a much better solution other than total rebuild of the bushings.
_Modified by DHill at 8:00 PM 4-20-2009_

i had to light mine on fire to get them out. it's a lot easier than any other method, but smokes like crazy.


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: My MK3 2 Door GTi Syncro Swap/Setup Build Thread (TBT-Syncro)*

Well I have a press in my garage so I was thinking about pressing the bolt out and most likely ripping the bushing out with it. Either way I need new bushings and don't know if I can get them here in the u.s. and I dont want to pay an arm and a leg for them... so who knows at this point.


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## DHill (Jan 8, 2002)

*Re: My MK3 2 Door GTi Syncro Swap/Setup Build Thread (Zupek)*

I know you took the time to do that cross member... the factory part is really beefy but possibly overkill. Will you do any further reinforcement on that cross member?


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: My MK3 2 Door GTi Syncro Swap/Setup Build Thread (DHill)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DHill* »_I know you took the time to do that cross member... the factory part is really beefy but possibly overkill. Will you do any further reinforcement on that cross member? 

There really isn't a lot of room to reenforce it more. Once i get the engine running and verified that its all okay, I am going to look for ways to stiffin it up, just to be safe. But with the double cross member, it should be pretty stiff in the rear...


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Zupek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Zupek* »_ 
So once I get that tranny bolted on, I can:
---bolt the engine w/ transmission (no "center diff") into the car

Done, that was easy

_Quote, originally posted by *Zupek* »_
---run the wiring

Done, that sucked arse

_Quote, originally posted by *Zupek* »_
---set up the external oil cooler and SAI (needs to pass emissions here







),
 
Completed, put the SAI in the pass frame rail near emissions crap

_Quote, originally posted by *Zupek* »_
---weld in the couplers for the drive shaft

this weekend

_Quote, originally posted by *Zupek* »_
---bolt driveline together to check fitment

this weekend

_Quote, originally posted by *Zupek* »_
---take out the rear drive line, clean it up, paint it black, put it back in 

hopefully this weekend

_Quote, originally posted by *Zupek* »_
---put on the brakes, put in a stock driver seat

again, hopefully this weekend

_Quote, originally posted by *Zupek* »_
---Weld the top of the floor pan in 

Probably not until start of next week

_Quote, originally posted by *Zupek* »_
---START THE CAR

STARTING IT TONIGHT to make sure that the engine is A-Okay. Unfortunately I found a crack in my Aluminum oil pan and it took a few days to seal it up (jb-weld). No more dripping

_Quote, originally posted by *Zupek* »_
---take the car of the jack stands

IF I AM LUCKY, This weekend... but probably moreso next week..
Oh and battery has been relocated in the back, or will be once there is a "back"


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## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (djshortbus1.8T)*

More pictures por favor.


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (RipCity Euros)*

my blue tooth adapter isnt working here at work... but i'll try and get some more up tomorrow or tonight.


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Zupek)*

http://homepage.mac.com/scott....k.mov 
Unfortunately you probably need the H.264 codec installed, but here is a movie of the general progress right now. Yes I know the lighting sucks... I've been to busy to care Drivetrain should be completely in by tonight...
Then its over to the little things and the interior and eventually, i'f I am lucky a rear floor pan


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## prracer6 (Sep 17, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Zupek)*

dude I wanted to here in run


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (prracer6)*

Its still having kinks to work out. It starts and dies... i'll get it up as soon as it's running don't you worry.
Here are some pics of what I did tonight...
The rear assembly installed for fitment again








The paint and primer have been removed for where the drivetrain coupler needs a faster welded on/installed








I didn't have anything thick enough so I welded to pieces together for stronger support








Not the prettiest weld, but whatever, thats what a grinder is for








Hole drilled out so I can weld the nut/fastner on 








Welded on and bolt is through it








First leg welded on. ended up getting ground off and redone due to craptastic measuring, but its on there. 3 more to do tomorrow then all the little stuff can get completed and the axles and goooo can be on... then i can drive it away?!










_Modified by Zupek at 10:33 AM 5-29-2009_


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## vdubgti2.0 (Apr 4, 2005)

what will get done first this or Jorys car?


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: (vdubgti2.0)*

I dont plan to sleep tonight, does that help? I dont think I'll have enough time or gas to get the floor pan in, but i should still be able to drive it.


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: (Zupek)*

I have a bunch of pics tha tI will get to hopefully tonight. But on Friday afternoon I spent 26 hours straight working on my car.
Got the drivetrain bolted up, rear brakes on, front brakes on. My coil over wont come off the yellow car, so I have 3 HR coilovers and 1 HR Race ready coil over (try like 1200 lb springs, rides like ass). I broke off a bolt in one of my ears for the driveshaft. and I broke a tap in one of the ears as well.
Gas tank straps work well and were time consuming. Fuel pump was a PITA to get in that deep syncro tank. Went to start it and same problem, car starts and dies within 1 sec. Start it again, dies in 1 sec. I had no coolant in the system, as it was dry so I have a feeling it maybe cause the coolant temp sensor cant read anything.


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: (Zupek)*

Alright as promised here are a bunch of pictures from my 26 hours of hell. Comments are UNDER pictures








This is me making another ear for the drivetrain








This is the nut that I weld on, before welding








This is after the welding








This is both ears on the rear of the car/driveshaft








I was taping it because there was too much resistance when treading the bolt in, and lucky me, the tap snapped off inside and yes its a snap-on and no I dont believe they cover these under warranty








A picture of it in the bolt








This is what NOT to do. I put the 4th ear 1/2 in too far over, so I had to cut it off and add more weld to it, not pretty but it worked! Talk about a waste of time








Driveshaft in, along with the "downpipe", 4th ear not fastened








There was some saggish on the rear bear beam, so to support the weight of a full gas tank I added a support... doesn't budge for crap now. TOP VIEW








Bottom view, really hard to get the welder in there!








Driver Side axle in, and the parking break cable which has to be removed!








Caliper, rotor(x-drilled) and stainless break line installed.








Cut the stock strap to the correct size. This was a learn by lesson and required a lot of time measuring. If you ever have to do this I recommend getting the 1 side on the gas tank support beam and then hammering the strap into the right bends and cutting the length slowly, as needed, before the final weld of the ear onto the strap.








Ear Welded on








Closer view








Bolt welded on for the exhaust hanger. The black stuff is 3M Rubberized undercoating.








Cats installed. Don't know how much longer its going to last. 2 of the 6 bolkts are rusted out. Pretty soon I am going to have to make my own. And my care NEEDS to pass emissions.
















Hard to see in this picture but I have a cabrio 3.5 bumped dash and an R32 steering wheel.








High flow radiator fan test fitted and installed. Not wired up yet.
More to come, ran out of gas for the welder last night...
OH and the car idles now!!!










_Modified by Zupek at 12:24 PM 6-2-2009_


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: (Zupek)*

starting on the floor pan which is going to take a little bit of time. Started the car today and found a vacuum leak. Enjoy my dirty ass and ugly clothes








http://homepage.mac.com/scott....9.mov


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: (Zupek)*

Being the super smart guy I am, I cut out the spare tire well, which *I would never do again!!* for this swap. The goal was the use the original floor pan and cut it as needed, but it looks like instead I'll be making my own floor pan w/ spare tire well.
I am only using 16 gauge sheet metal, but I will try to re-enforce it w/ cross members and such. I am in the measuring / template process and will get more pictures posted, once its in the complete stage. Unfortunately, due to the semi warmish weather, I've been playing volleyball (sorry its more important then cars to me) and yard work...







Hopefully the floor pan will be done and in before the end of the weekend


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## Das Borgen (Sep 10, 2008)

*Re: (Zupek)*

fucckin awesome....
subscribed


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: (Das Borgen)*

sump pump gave out and flooded my basement, so that ate up a hole day and 250 buck. about 60% of the floor pan created. Pictures on my digicam, which is at home... whoops!


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## bugnuts (Jul 31, 2007)

*Re: (Zupek)*

Great work! I'm at the same stage with the rear. Post your pics- I need insparation!


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: (bugnuts)*









Me starting to make the floor pan... I've never done anything like this before so this is all new to me.








Top view, outside of car








Inside of car, with tire in for fitmet testing. As you can see, the gastank sits much higher then a FWD gas tank








Different view.
I've gotten some of the other parts done and hope to have more pictures soon. I have to do an engine swap for something this weekend, so I can't promise much progress


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## bugnuts (Jul 31, 2007)

*Re: (Zupek)*

Looks good so far. Will the spare match up with the tire size you are running?


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## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

*Re: (Zupek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Zupek* »_








Me starting to make the floor pan... I've never done anything like this before so this is all new to me.








Top view, outside of car








Inside of car, with tire in for fitmet testing. As you can see, the gastank sits much higher then a FWD gas tank








Different view.
I've gotten some of the other parts done and hope to have more pictures soon. I have to do an engine swap for something this weekend, so I can't promise much progress









my spare tire


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: (TBT-Syncro)*

A) when i started this project I wanted ti look as stock as possible. B) I have REALLY bad luck with tires. Proably 6-7 in the past two years and 2 cracked wheels and 3 dented wheels. (thank you craphole Milwaukee, WI) 3) I am running stock DE wheels, so yes, this is the DE spare


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: (Zupek)*

grrrr been spending time rebuilding an engine for someone else... i was to finish my rear floor pan!! but it looks like i wont have enough gas... THANKS JON!!!


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## Fallsjetta (Jun 23, 2007)

*FV-QR*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif looking forward to seeing this car on the road


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Fallsjetta)*

yep, considering this is really the only thing left... me too!


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## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Zupek)*

C'Mon scott, bust a nut, er I mean bust a move and get this thing on the road at least, there will be time to go back and finish some of the details later, the whole month of july is bereft of vw-related gtgs/shows, use your powers of zupekery and make july full of synchro splendor...


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (scirockin16v)*

dad's coming into town next weekend so I doubt it'll be ready by then... probably by the first weekend in July...


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## <Owen> (Mar 6, 2008)

*FV-QR*

wow, this thing will be one of a kind!


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## PTTM (May 29, 2003)

*Re: (Zupek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Zupek* »_Being the super smart guy I am, I cut out the spare tire well, which *I would never do again!!* for this swap.

Why did you cut out the spare tire well? I assume its to make the fuel tank fit?
If you didn't cut it out what would you do?


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: (PTTM)*

Well going into it, I was under the impression that the spare tire will would be the only part that didn't fit up. 
If I did it again, I would've just kept the rear floor pan and ran a fuel cell in the rear hatch, which would pretty much eat up most of my hatch, but protect it from the elements.
The Mk3 Syncro gas tank is SIGNIFICANTLY deeper and shaped different then the stock mk3 fwd gas tank.


_Modified by Zupek at 2:54 PM 12-28-2009_


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: (Zupek)*

*BAD BAD NEWS*
Car started and ran and then it started to die while running, for no reason. Looks like its seized up and needs a rebuild







more info to come later.


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: (Zupek)*

I did something stupid and will probably regret it. Good news is my rod bearings and crank bearings are the same as the 12v's and I have a set of 12v bearings sitting on my shelves. I've already replaced the rod bearings now it's time to check the crank bearings....


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: (Zupek)*

all bearings spun again. Time to rip it all out and rebuild and rering the block. Also probably need to mill the head. This project will not be completed in 2009


----------



## Burnitwithfire (May 14, 2005)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Zupek* »_all bearings spun again. Time to rip it all out and rebuild and rering the block. Also probably need to mill the head. This project will not be completed in 2009










Looks like you have oil pressure issues.


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Black Smokin' Diesel)*

I think I need to have the journals on the crank repolished


----------



## mk3_vwgti (Jul 21, 2008)

*Re: My MK3 2 Door GTi Syncro Swap/Setup Build Thread (Zupek)*

if you want to sell your set up ill be intrested


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: My MK3 2 Door GTi Syncro Swap/Setup Build Thread (mk3_vwgti)*

Nope, but thanks for letting me know. Getting a new crank or having mine repolished isn't that costly. 
I would rush it this year but 1) im broke and 2) I have an SCCA car to build this winter. But before I can do that, I have to build a deck, install a hot tub, hang drywall for my ceiling in my garage and add some 110 heaters. So I'll update this as things actually get completed on the car...but dont expect anything for a while... at least not until November or December








EDIT: Reading back on this all I got done was install a hot tub, go figure.


_Modified by Zupek at 2:56 PM 12-28-2009_


----------



## jettaglx91 (Jul 27, 2004)

*FV-QR*

please dont take this wrong as i am not a welder by any means but the welds for the driveshaft brackets look horrible
what doesnt make sense is the ones for the rear floor look great
i would recommend redoing them and getting those done better. 
again im not being a jerk just trying to look out for u as if one of those fail it will cause some serious damage to the driveshaft 
i would hate to see that happen on such a cool build


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (jettaglx91)*

no jerk-ness taken. I was at the end of a 28 hour straight session and getting the welder in on those spots was a royal pain in the d!ck. I will certainly take your criticism into thought and try to get in there and clean em up. They pretty dman strong, fyi and the drive shaft mounting tabs don't actualy take much abuse as most of it is absorbed by the couplers and bushings and VC. 
YAY PAGE 3











_Modified by Zupek at 11:35 AM 8-12-2009_


----------



## Paluminati07 (Feb 1, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (jettaglx91)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jettaglx91* »_please dont take this wrong as i am not a welder by any means but the welds for the driveshaft brackets look horrible
what doesnt make sense is the ones for the rear floor look great
i would recommend redoing them and getting those done better. 
again im not being a jerk just trying to look out for u as if one of those fail it will cause some serious damage to the driveshaft 
i would hate to see that happen on such a cool build

Yes Exactly..that drive shaft is gonna undergo alot of force/friction from the torque of ur engine man..
u need to reweld those with some big pieces of metal brackets


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Paluminati07)*

For the record, the car that it came out of even had crappy "tabs" that were welded on and it lasted without problems for years, including 2 years as a winter/salt car but it is appreciated.


----------



## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (Paluminati07)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Paluminati07* »_
Yes Exactly..that drive shaft is gonna undergo alot of force/friction from the torque of ur engine man..
u need to reweld those with some big pieces of metal brackets 

no it doesnt. in fact it barely goes under any since the angle drive has next to no movement.
bump for an awesome project.


----------



## Burnitwithfire (May 14, 2005)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *TBT-Syncro* »_
no it doesnt. in fact it barely goes under any since the angle drive has next to no movement.
bump for an awesome project.


If the driveshaft is straight, the hangers aren't seeing that much force. Making sure everything is straight is the key here.


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Black Smokin' Diesel)*

Well the engine was bad and I didn't take pictures (I will when I put it all back together) but this is what arrived in the mail, for this project, today.
Piston Pron for all!!! 
just got it today for my 24v 
















































































































Enjoi


----------



## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Zupek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Zupek* »_For the record, the car that it came out of even had crappy "tabs" that were welded on and it lasted without problems for years, including 2 years as a winter/salt car but it is appreciated. 


Correct, my tabs all i used was square tubing, drilled a hole and put a bolt and nut. Held fine for 7000rpm launch's


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (O2VW1.8T)*

started workign on finishing the floor pan. I've sent 3 cranks out to check them before putting them into my car and all 3 have come back damaged out of spec. So if you ever spin a bearing, toss the crank, its worthless.


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Zupek)*

I got my self a decent kerosene heater and i've been working up welding back all the cuts I shouldn't of made. Only have about 3 to 5 more pieces left on the floor pan. After the welding I just have to seal everything up, rust proof and paint it then I can get back to the engine. Still trying to get a GOOD crank to my house though...








EDIT: PS this will probably take awhile. Plus I still need to get pictures of my busted pistons/engine. Still have a bit of time to go.


_Modified by Zupek at 2:59 PM 12-28-2009_


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

This is the me repairing all the bad cuts i made during the floor pan removal. Note to self, drill it out








closer view








closer view towards the back








more work on the floor pan. cut around the shock tower








showing the vertical supports and the corner so I can remove the tail light bulb carrier








showing the back








showing the passenger side cut that was b a d bad








Verticial support towards the hatch








My bitchin new heater! 75,000 BTU's of kerosene/diesel goodness.








my custom pistons that went bad. Skirt should never scrape the wall.








I bought this damn VW TOOL forever ago and it supposed to be used for installing pistons into a VR. I HAVE NOOOOO CLUE how it works. It doesnt even fit down the whole and this is bored to 3.1L (85mm)
edit (fixing typos)


_Modified by Zupek at 12:21 PM 12-29-2009_


----------



## Burnitwithfire (May 14, 2005)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Zupek* »_








I bought this damn VW TOOL forever ago and it supposed to be used for installing pistons into a VR. I HAVE NOOOOO CLUE who it works. It doesnt even fit down the whole and this is bored to 3.1L (85mm)


If it did fit in the hole there's no way you could fit the piston in the cylinder as well







IMO you slide the piston from the top and push it down into the cylinder.


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Black Smokin' Diesel)*

yeah I dont trust it, i'll use a normal piston ring compression sleeve i've done it a million times that way and it seems to work best. But then again, i'v;e never used this one, so who knows. too bad I don't plan to find out on this engine
edit: as soon as i placed it on the block to take pictures of it, i figured out how it works... but like I said just dont trust it


_Modified by Zupek at 12:22 PM 12-29-2009_


----------



## 88Jetta350 (May 4, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Awesome build, even though it makes me happy that I BOUGHT my Golf II Syncro.


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (88Jetta350)*

yeah, well the U.S. doesnt get nice cars remember?


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Zupek)*

finished welding the passenger side bad cut. now the question is do i strengthen where I cut in towards the seats? better do something in there so moisture doesnt kill it. ugh... so close!


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Zupek)*

Alright, so I know this part of the thread isn't really exciting but it's a lot of work fixing bad cuts when you have to worry about the weather and structural integrity after those shiesty cuts. Here is what was done today. Ran out of gas real fast (2 days) and found out I bumped my flow rate to around 40...should be around 25.








finishing welding up on the final piece. This is the vertical support towards the cabin (half of it anyways)








here is on the driver side. I ended up using sheet metal (16 gauge) to fill the wholes. Its very difficult to fix those bad cuts with welds. I got lazy and just bent the sheet metal around the 3 thick cut. While it wont keep moisture out, it'll keep most of the elements out. When it does rust, this will be the first place 








This is the passenger side. As you can see from my weldes, the welding puddle doesnt really fill the gap like one hopes. Most of the time it just drips through, thats why its not smooth. but for those of you that have never welded (and this being my first project ever doing so) you'll figure out it takes more hands on time then anything else
















This is showing my close to full bead all the way across the sheet metal/vertical support. This is probably one of my best welds ever. It totally turned me on








here is a close up of it!








This is my garage and sadly this is MUCH cleaner then it was. Now I just need to build some shelving and place this crap somewhere. Righty JORY?!







(and jon...okay and scooter too)









_Modified by Zupek at 10:57 PM 12-30-2009_


_Modified by Zupek at 11:00 PM 12-30-2009_


----------



## rallyedude (Feb 22, 2003)

*Re: (Zupek)*

that piston tool is designed to work with 81 mm bores. different bore sizes use different tools. i own that same tool, i never liked it i've built quite a few vr's over the years only used that tool once. the rings that come with JE or Ross pistons tend to not be as brittle as oem rings much easier to install. i used my fingers, clock the rings so they come down at different points and gently squueze them when coming close to the top of the deck. when installing the pistons the rings are sitting at 7.5 degrees relative to the deck surface, otherwise traditional piston tool could be used. If i were building more motors i'd have some tapered sleeves made for install like what you see high volume machine shops use for american blocks. ( you see those nascar guys use them in engine building competitions)


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: (rallyedude)*









need I say more
















Kind of fitting that this first pic tonight was the 100th picture of the swap


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Zupek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Zupek* »_ Right JORY?!



yup yup, lets get on it this week, how about weds. night or maybe monday night, we get a plan together (will go where) and estimate materials then friday we can procure the materials and saturday after I get off of work, we can get it done?


_Modified by scirockin16v at 2:38 AM 1-10-2010_


----------



## DubChub (Nov 19, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (scirockin16v)*

Lookin Good


----------



## Burnitwithfire (May 14, 2005)

*FV-QR*

You really should hit all the areas you're welding with a metal wire brush or a grinder before you weld. You'll get better results. It also looks like you're doing long passes instead of tacking and it's heating the steel too much.


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Black Smokin' Diesel)*

Oh there is no doubt that I should do a better clean up job. But that seam sealer is a major pain the the dick to get undone and it's even worse going all that stuff to weld cuts that I shoulnd't have made. 
Interestingly enough, I purchase Blue Demon Mild Steel (shielded for gas) this time from a Welding store (.030, high silicon) and its spatters wayyyy worse the Menadards US Forge (i htink it was forge) product. I think i'll be stickin with the Mendars stuff in the future, go figure. I can actually see and work well with that puddle.
Looking at the back alone, I think you can figure out where I started and wehre I ended on my welds. I didn't really get the hang of the puddle until the long straight bead that I pic'd above. It isn't pretty and I didn't have the patience to wire all that seam sealer and undercoating off. but I do agree with you that I should've done a better job.


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Black Smokin' Diesel)*

How can you tell if I am heating the steel too much? Granted there would warpage, but what else are you looking at to be able to tell?


----------



## Burnitwithfire (May 14, 2005)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Zupek* »_How can you tell if I am heating the steel too much? Granted there would warpage, but what else are you looking at to be able to tell? 


This:

_Quote, originally posted by *Zupek* »_This is the passenger side. As you can see from my weldes, the welding puddle doesnt really fill the gap like one hopes. Most of the time it just drips through, thats why its not smooth.


It's getting too hot and dripping before it hardens. You are using a MIG right? If so you should do two or three tacks, wait a bit, two or three more, ect.


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Black Smokin' Diesel)*

Okay thanks for the help.


----------



## ptrmzr (Nov 9, 2007)

What do you plan on using to seal up your floors both inside and out to prevent rust?


----------



## vdubgti2.0 (Apr 4, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Zupek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Zupek* »_How can you tell if I am heating the steel too much? Granted there would warpage, but what else are you looking at to be able to tell? 

You can also tell by how dis-colored the steel is and how high the discoloration marks go. If you wire wheel the metal clean and then weld the difference in how it welds is amazing. DOn't be so damn lazy Zupek and try it.


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: (ptrmzr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ptrmzr* »_What do you plan on using to seal up your floors both inside and out to prevent rust? 

3m seam sealer and 3m rubberized undercoating followed by paint


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: (Zupek)*

wooo woooo
































Hopefully get her driving this weekend.... so I can pull her back in a finish welding up her arse.


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

*Re: (Zupek)*

I hope your reused headgasket doesnt leak...


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: (scirockin16v)*

i promise you it wont.
edit: dude thats pretty weak on your part. I didnt go into your build thread and say how haggard you master cylinder is











_Modified by Zupek at 11:32 AM 1-22-2010_


----------



## radojon (Oct 11, 2007)

*Re: (Zupek)*

Lookin good man!
So its a bored out 24v VR6 syncro?







I wish I had a cool fun project to work on, man some people have it all
Hope to see it driving one day, keep up the good work http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Clean the stuff your welding first, you'll be amazed at how well your welder will work then


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

*Re: (Zupek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Zupek* »_i promise you it wont.
edit: dude thats pretty weak on your part. I didnt go into your build thread and say how haggard you master cylinder is








_Modified by Zupek at 11:32 AM 1-22-2010_
 
Rerax......
Weak is relative.... and my master cylinder, no matter how haggard doesn't leak 
I'd rather see it out and about driving around, than not http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by scirockin16v at 11:59 PM 1-23-2010_


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: (scirockin16v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *scirockin16v* »_ 
Rerax......
Weak is relative.... and my master cylinder, no matter how haggard doesn't leak 
I'd rather see it out and about driving around, than not http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by scirockin16v at 11:59 PM 1-23-2010_

Its a 3 peice steal gasket, its not a crush gasket like a mk3 or a copper head gasket. The seal is created by all 3 pieces being pressed together during the tightening phase. If I blew a head gasket, yes it would be stupid. If i even drove a mile on the headgasket, it would be pretty stupid. But I didnt The car never once even hit operating temp or idled more then 20 seconds.
And comparing, i dont want people to hear me jamming my car into every gear grinding the **** outta the syncros. Your car has YET (since its had a vr in it) to shift correctly despite your weird view of it working correctly. So sure, while I cheaped out and saved a hundred bucks by reusing my head gasket (which if leaks, i'll replace within that week), you could've easily paid for a NEW, CORRECT master cylinder 2 years ago on the original swap instead of having to jory rig (like that) your setup.
Simple point being is you coming in here bitching bout my headgasket is way beyond calling the Kettle Black. How many shortcuts have you taken on your ****? Don't even bother telling me you havent taken any


----------



## scirockin16v (Sep 3, 2005)

*Re: (Zupek)*

oh lighten up scotty
and go into my thread, then atleast it"ll be getting bumped...


_Modified by scirockin16v at 8:59 PM 1-24-2010_


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: (radojon)*


_Quote, originally posted by *radojon* »_Lookin good man!
So its a bored out 24v VR6 syncro?







I wish I had a cool fun project to work on, man some people have it all
Hope to see it driving one day, keep up the good work http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Clean the stuff your welding first, you'll be amazed at how well your welder will work then









Hey I had to swallow a lot of loads for that stuff...wait a second....
IN a dream world i'd have a chromed out, freshly painted corrado with a built block and some some hard to find Shrick parts. Oh and a bitching header.... too bad they never made an OBD2 corrado


----------



## radojon (Oct 11, 2007)

*Re: (Zupek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Zupek* »_.... too bad they never made an OBD2 corrado









If they did it would be slower and the CEL would be on all the time
Hopefully Ill have that seam sealer gun for you tomorrow if you wanna get it at Bar Louie
And for the record Jory dont be a hypocrite, you take more cheap shortcuts and reuse more gaskets than anyone I know, Zupek didnt go calling you out on your build thread


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: (radojon)*

Well the engine is in, driveline is in, hooked up various crap like shift linkage, slave cylinder, wires, fuel rail, intake manifold, etc.
Hopefully tonight I can get the other things hooked up like coil pack, million different vacuum lines, exhaust, radiator, coolant, radiator fan, power steering fluid, headlights, etc.
If things go as planned, which as we are on page 4 now of this thread, I HIGHLY doubt they will. I may be able to test drive it to bar louie and back.


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: (Zupek)*

hooked up all the vacuum lines (and trust me there are plenty), Emissions, exhaust, electrical (no fan yet), external oil filter and oil cooler lines.
So tehre is a CHANCE i can drive tomorrow for our VW dinner meet up we do every tuesday, but I am not going to rush it. Anyone know which wire is the one to wire to a relay off the radiator fan switch?


----------



## radojon (Oct 11, 2007)

*Re: (Zupek)*

Im assuming you have a 3 terminal switch? One is the constant hot feed wire and the other two are the low and high speed fan circuits. If you look at the wiring for the plug one should be hot at all times and then out of the other two the high speed will usually have a thicker wire. If you run a OEM fan you can relay both, if you run pusher/puller aftermarket fans you could relay one on the low speed terminal and another fan on the high speed terminal. One fan is usually enough so you will only need the low speed circuit


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: (radojon)*

Okay so all 3 wires are positives? 1 hot, 1 hot for low speed when coolant gets hot enough and shorts and 1 hot for high speed doing the same thing?
Sweet! I can use that as the main power going into the relay and activate the fan that way.


----------



## vdubgti2.0 (Apr 4, 2005)

*FV-QR*

yes and no Scott, if you look at the switch there will be a one and and a two numbered on it, that is for the high and low speed. The hot in will be labeled I believe, it will be a hot in off the battery. Then the wires that are labeled one and two will be hot out of the switch once the switch closes. I you have any questions just ask me or Jon or Junior.... anyways it is looking good I haven't talked to you in a while or popped into the thread. Great to see this thing is almost ready to go.


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (vdubgti2.0)*

thats pretty much what i was saying. Yes 1 constant hot and i use either 1(lowspeed) or 2(low speed) as the main power for the relay, correct?
Do I even need a relay or can I run the fan straight of the low speed or high speed signal w/ an inline fuse.


----------



## radojon (Oct 11, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Zupek)*

In the blue rabbit I ran a oem fan right off the fan switch and never had a problem, that car never got hot though cause it had a low temp thermostat. I would recommend running relays though as that car will run hotter and you have bad luck, I have run relays in every other car Ive done for safety reasons. If the rabbit shorted out there wasnt much to catch fire


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (radojon)*

she runs!
http://homepage.mac.com/scott.....html
or you can download the video here
http://homepage.mac.com/scott....2.mov (view in browser)
[url]http://homepage.mac.com/scott.....m4v [/URL] (right click save as)

_Modified by Zupek at 3:03 PM 1-27-2010_


_Modified by Zupek at 3:04 PM 1-27-2010_


----------



## vdubgti2.0 (Apr 4, 2005)

*FV-QR*

Fake video I call BS


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (vdubgti2.0)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubgti2.0* »_Fake video I call BS

did the video run for you?


----------



## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Zupek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Zupek* »_
or you can download the video here
http://homepage.mac.com/scott....2.mov


Two min. later, Zupek collapsed from smoke inhalation in his tiny garage








J/K, sounds good, this thing should be a beast. What management are you running again?


----------



## vdubgti2.0 (Apr 4, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Zupek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Zupek* »_
did the video run for you?


Didn't try it was just messing with ya, I will watch it later glad to hear it is running, look forward to seeing it on the road now


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (RipCity Euros)*

12v w/ custom GIAC software. It doesn't have VCT
The smokeis from my Kerosene heater running out of fuel and spewing its evil smoke at me and making me jump up afraid i just started a huge fire.



_Modified by Zupek at 3:00 PM 1-27-2010_


----------



## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Zupek)*

IM sent


----------



## vdubgti2.0 (Apr 4, 2005)

*FV-QR*

done yet?


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (vdubgti2.0)*

nope the Plague has made a comeback and I was the carrier of it. Hopefully i'll be healthier tomorrow.
for the record, i want to find the kid, that touched another kid that touched everything that I eventually touched to get this plague..and I want to punch him in the face. All parents shoudl be required to carry hand sanitizer with them at all times. Or at least make a machine that never stops squirting it on kids hands.


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Zupek)*

LOOKS LIKE SHE SPUN SOME BEARINGS AGAIN

































































































































































































































Was warming the car up to test the radiator fan and it stopped right in the middle of a gradual throttle. Drained the oil and there is stripper dust everywhere. TOO PISSED OFF to rip it all apart and figure it out right now.
This was already a new oil pump, so I must've warped the block a long time ago


































































































































































































































or the replacement crank i had was ****. Should've sent it in to get tested before putting it in the car


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Zupek)*


----------



## Burnitwithfire (May 14, 2005)

*FV-QR*

You should get it professionally rebuilt OR get a know good engine. This one is either really messed up or there's something you're doing wrong. Did you check the oil pressure?


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Black Smokin' Diesel)*

yep i checked the oil pressure. ive rebuild engines before, no problem. But this one is ridiculous. I'll pull it all apart again and send it out to get everything checked again. I'll replace all the oil squirters and have the crank checked out. I have a feeling i know what it was and that crank is gonna come back bad.


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Zupek)*

Okay fine, I'll admit it publicly, what I did.
When putting the pistons together, the JE Pistons instructions recommended using Marvels Mystery Oil on the rings, to create a better seal against the block. Since I oiled the cylinders before putting the pistons in I figured I would take the remaing 1qt of Mystery Oil and add it to my oil, hoping to create a better seal/seat during the break in period.
Well apparently, that stuff is pure evil and it probably just exaggerated every possible defect in the crank journals already. And there was one spot on the journal i questioned but I am a risk taker by nature and this is how you learn


----------



## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Zupek)*

Wow, sorry about that man.


----------



## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (RipCity Euros)*

Thanks, i'll probably have it all ripped back apart and ready to be sent out for checking before the weekend ends. 
So any rookie builder coming in here and reading this, just use plane jane oil. Not synthetic, no additives and if you had the block honed, i would recommend changing the oil after letting it run for a little while as there could be metal shavings left over from the honing.


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## 2020VT (Mar 18, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Zupek)*

Wow your a retard and that is all I have to say.


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## Jr Smith (Jan 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (2020VT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2020VT* »_Wow your a retard and that is all I have to say. 

WOW!!! That is just plain MEAN.... How dare you. I'm appalled at this.

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (2020VT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2020VT* »_Wow your a retard and that is all I have to say. 

and yet if my rings sealed amazingly, i'd be a genius. it was a risk i was willing to take and in return now i have to pay the price.


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Zupek)*

My buddy who built a 3.0 RS4 used Royal Purple Break in Oil, so I just purchased 8 qrts. his car hauls ass, so that has to work.
On top of that, I order a new headgasket, new head bolts, vf tranny mount, and main, rod and thrust bearings. EVen though i doubt any damage was done to the Main bearings (i have yet to see any of them bad on a vr). Oh thats a reminder, should order oil squirters to be safe.


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## 2020VT (Mar 18, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Zupek)*

Well Scott I have to say that your logic is quite amazing. Its nice to see that you have yet to acquire any more intellect since the first time I met you. Please keep posting up your findings and you misshapes they are quite amusing to me.


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## radojon (Oct 11, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (2020VT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2020VT* »_I have to say that your logic is quite amazing

Thats Scott for ya, he likes to learn the hard way


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (radojon)*


_Quote, originally posted by *radojon* »_
Thats Scott for ya, he likes to learn the hard way

Yep I like to push the limit and everything, that way I know what the limit is. Usually it requires more money and more time, but hey, thats the fun for me.


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (2020VT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2020VT* »_Well Scott I have to say that your logic is quite amazing. Its nice to see that you have yet to acquire any more intellect since the first time I met you. Please keep posting up your findings and you misshapes they are quite amusing to me.









of course I didn't have any logic then. I was paying someone else 30k to build a car for me well they covered me, which was swell of em, but hey live and learn.
Any chance you still have that mk2?


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## 2020VT (Mar 18, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Zupek)*

Nope sold them both then sold the STI that I had and now onto a MK3 VR6.


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## radojon (Oct 11, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (2020VT)*

I gave you that seam sealer so you could keep working, whats the dilly yo? You getting any thing else done?


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (radojon)*

working on the engine. Tonight i have to spend one of my free nights with the girl.







don't get me wrong, i am sure i could devote every last second to it, but excuse me for getting a little tired of this engine







BUTTTT since you nagged me, i'll get working on it <3


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

started ripping the engine apart today and found out that cylinder 5 spun a bearing on the piston rod 








Starting taking the pressure plate off again so I can have the crank sent out and checked but of course, the 10mm triple square bit snapped on me again like it did 5 months ago... booo Gear Wrench








So this put me at a stop until I can get a replacement of somesort. It was the ONLY spun bearing (didn't check the Main bearing's yet) . I am also replacing Cylinder 3 piston rod as there was a mushroom part on the lower rod fastener. 


_Modified by Zupek at 8:25 PM 3-15-2010_


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## radojon (Oct 11, 2007)

*Re: (Zupek)*

That bearing doesnt look the greatest but it doesnt look spun, any pics of the back of the bearing? the part that would slip, causing a spun bearing
BTW, I have your warrantied Gearwrench triple square


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: (radojon)*


_Quote, originally posted by *radojon* »_That bearing doesnt look the greatest but it doesnt look spun, any pics of the back of the bearing? the part that would slip, causing a spun bearing
BTW, I have your warrantied Gearwrench triple square

sweet I'll come get it this evening and see if I can fix your papas computer while I am it. The back of the bearing wasn't all that bad, no pics though.  I understand thats the SPUN part. There were metal shavings near the edges of the inner bearing, so even though the engine didn't seize it would've soon enough. I think most of the metal in the oil was probably left over in the oil cooler lines and cooler itself. SO i gotta clean that up more


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: (Zupek)*

update, just waiting to get info on the crank. Over the weekend, i worked on the rear floor pan more. Not much more to do. I think I have to cut one of the cross members so I can setup a quick disconnect on it. I can't drop the gas tank with the rear floor pan in. However, if I put a quick disconnect in there, it should be okay. Not that I see any reason that i'll ever need to drop the gas tank. But still, better do it just to be safe.


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: (Zupek)*

decided that if i need to drop the damn gas tank, i'll just cut the front cross member out. At this point, i don't see going through all the work in doing that, there are more pressing matters at hand


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## racerguy245haro (Apr 1, 2010)

*Re: (Zupek)*

hey boss what tranny do you have on your VR?? if you dont mind me asking. and that is a mk4 VR? sorry for all the questions i want to make a mk3 like that and the rear set up on your car is way diffedrent then mine do they change after 95 


_Modified by racerguy245haro at 11:42 PM 3-31-2010_


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: (racerguy245haro)*

did you plastigauge the bearing sufaces to know what kind/size of bearing you needed????
im betting no???


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: (speed51133!)*

it's appears to be an oiling issue.
They don't offer over sized bearings for a VR block/crank/rods (that i've been able to ever find anyways).
And, given our previous conversation, you should already know that answer, no


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: (racerguy245haro)*


_Quote, originally posted by *racerguy245haro* »_hey boss what tranny do you have on your VR?? if you dont mind me asking. and that is a mk4 VR? sorry for all the questions i want to make a mk3 like that and the rear set up on your car is way diffedrent then mine do they change after 95 

_Modified by racerguy245haro at 11:42 PM 3-31-2010_

I have a 02J gear set (+ quaife 6 speed add-on) with an 02c bell housing and differential.
As for MK4's I recommend reading the FAQ as I don't have a MK4 and never had the urge to research a AWD Drivetrain swap. Good luck!
If I remember correctly, people use the R32, TT, and some other rear end typically in MK4's. WHich is also why you see more haldex mk4's than syncro mk4's.


_Modified by Zupek at 2:31 PM 4-1-2010_


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: (Zupek)*

seriously man, not to nock you down when your engine is burned....
but dont always try to reinvent the wheel with your own personal experience. its OK to take a book or a lesson from another person.
you cant just go slapping engine parts together. you have to use detailed measurments to know what size bearings, what size ring gap, all that stuff. assembling an engine is more than just tightening bolts. its very detailed and takes alot of measuring tools and time.
if oversized bearings are not available (and i doubt that) the normal procedure is to either throw out the crank, or get it chrome plated to build up material and then machine it back to factory size.
just google "how to assemble an engine". ive read threads that are like 10 pages long, and all the guy did was bolt a crank to a block. at least check out the bentley and read up on it. i have a spare mk3 bently ill sell ya too!
FYI:
here is an exerpt from an online article thats VERRRRY basic. Take note of it. If you think you can just skip it, read how they say that an engine is gaurenteed to fail if a bearing surface is just .001 of an inch off. Thats like the width of the peach fuzz on your face!!! You cant see that with your eye, and you probably diddnt even care to look for it.:
The best way to ensure the engine is assembled properly is to test-fit the short-block before the final assembly. This takes more time and even more patience, but it is the best way to build an engine. Professional engine builders often test-fit an engine several times before all the clearances and dimensions are built to their satisfaction. While this usually involves expensive race engines, the same care and attention to detail will ensure your everyday street engine will be both powerful and durable. 
Test-fitting centers mainly around the short-block to ensure the proper clearances. Piston-to-wall, rod and main bearing, and rod side clearance along with crank end play are a few of the critical dimensions that must be correct if your engine is to have a chance of survival. This means using precision instruments like micrometers and dial indicators. If you don’t have any experience using these types of tools, you will either need to learn or have someone you trust measure your pieces for you. If you’ve never assembled an engine before, it might be wise to have someone with experience inspect your work. Often, that extra pair of eyes will catch a mistake before it’s too late. 
This brings up another point that is critical for engine builders to understand. Regardless of whether the machine work is done by a local shop or you purchase a mail-order engine kit, it is the ultimate responsibility of the engine builder to check all the clearances to ensure everything is in order. One slightly oversize rod journal combined with an undersize big end of a rod can take a normal 0.0020-inch rod-bearing clearance down to under 0.001 inch, and that’s guaranteed to fail. The only way to know is to measure each and every clearance. 
Plastigage can be used to check your work, but most professional engine builders don’t recommend using Plastigage as the only source of information on bearing clearance. The right way to determine bearing clearances is to mic the main and rod journals, then install bearings in each of the rod and main bores and measure the vertical inside diameter of the bearing. Subtract the journal outside diameter from the bearing inside diameter and the net result is the bearing clearance. It’s a simple task, but this will take some time, so be patient
________________________________________
Hell, even the geeks who edit wikipedia know this stuff!
http://www.crankshaftcoalition...ngine


_Modified by speed51133! at 2:31 PM 4-1-2010_


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (2020VT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2020VT* »_Nope sold them both then sold the STI that I had and now onto a MK3 VR6.

ive been getting a kick out of this guys posts all over!!!
its great!
next build project of his is a hydrogen powered car.....its too good.


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## radojon (Oct 11, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (speed51133!)*


_Quote, originally posted by *speed51133!* »_
ive been getting a kick out of this guys posts all over!!!
its great!
next build project of his is a hydrogen powered car.....its too good.

You shouldn't jump to conclusions before you post. In this thread it says nothing about just slapping engines together and just blowing them up for the fun of it. He works very hard to build and teach himself how to do things, he pretty much taught himself how to weld and do many other things by doing this project. So he has some kind of oiling issue with this motor and Im sure he will figure it out, and if he doesn't he has half a dozen VRs at his disposal so I don't think he cares much. Hes not the type of guy that would build up a car, put less than a 100 miles on it and then part it out








BTW: Try finding proper over-sized bearings for a VR cause as far as any machine shop and parts place, including the dealer, they don't exist. Thanks for the sig


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (radojon)*

i'll care if i **** my new pistons up


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (radojon)*

fyi,
i bult the car myself, taught myself how to weld, taught myself how to machine, and built a bad ass race car. then i graduated law school, got a job as a lawyer, and dont have time to use the car so i parted it.
umm.....i think you have no basis to knock me for what i did.
he has an oil issue. the issue is he diddnt measure **** when slapping that **** together fool.


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## Dubstuning (Nov 1, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Nice build I am doing similar on my mk3, and while it was front wheel drive burned up a set of JE pistons from some wicked detonation. We all have set backs keep up the good work







and definitely rock the royal purple break in oil ive heard nothing but great things about it and use it myself.


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## radojon (Oct 11, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (speed51133!)*


_Quote, originally posted by *speed51133!* »_fyi,
i bult the car myself, taught myself how to weld, taught myself how to machine, and built a bad ass race car. then i graduated law school, got a job as a lawyer, and dont have time to use the car so i parted it.
umm.....i think you have no basis to knock me for what i did.
he has an oil issue. the issue is he diddnt measure **** when slapping that **** together fool.


You are right I dont have basis to knock you for what you did, but it works the same for Zupek, you have no history of what that engine has been through. That engine has been through a lot and had gotten very very hot when it started having issues the first time which means it could have a plugged oil passage in the block causing it to spin bearings and have oiling issues, know one knows right now so regardless you shouldn't hate on him and assume hes the one at fault when it could be a bigger issue at hand. People have been building engines much longer than dial calipers and plasti-gauges have been around and yes they may be recommended for engine assemblies but are not necessary when the engine is known good ( Ive assembled dozens of bottom ends and have rarely had the need to use plasti-gauge unless I know the motor had issues) . He now understands there is a bigger problem at hand and Im sure he will be more cautious this time around.
DONT HATE, APPRECIATE


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Dubstuning)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Dubstuning* »_Nice build I am doing similar on my mk3, and while it was front wheel drive burned up a set of JE pistons from some wicked detonation. We all have set backs keep up the good work







and definitely rock the royal purple break in oil ive heard nothing but great things about it and use it myself. 

Is that a piece of cake from Portal?







Yep waiting to get the crank back from getting polished, then i'll start to chug away at it again. 
This week in weather. Monday 70 degrees, today (thursday) 37 degrees and I woke up to snow...ha 
Thanks for reading and hope you enjoyed it


_Modified by Zupek at 2:21 PM 4-8-2010_


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Zupek)*

Got the crank back from the machine shop. Its all polished and pretty looking. Rebuilt engine, swapped out 2 rods that I didn't trust. Head is back on engine and torqued down with new, stock, 3 piece headgasket.
Need to install cams, get the tranny on, put on my upgraded trans mount on the subframe and install away.
I am a bit weary as my engine is not a North American 24v, though it's still a BDF. The cams are different than the American spec cars, but if anyone is ever rebuildling a eurovan 24v, the Exhaust cam is labeled 101 and the Intake cam is label 102 between the 4 and 5 cam lobes.


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

Found what killed me. I was running an OTC oil cooler and one of the lines was clamped so tight that no oil could get back to the engine, so I ditched that oilcooler and went with a more professional oil cooler. Car has idled up to temp and the radiator fan worked well. 

Got it all back together to take her for a trip around the block, just to make sure before I seal my gas tank in for good) and now the car starts and dies now that its on all 4 tires. 

Please feel free to take a peek at this thread I created in the 12v forum if you have any insight, thanks. 
Other Thread


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

It runs and drives like a champ. I was a little scared at first because it felt like the clutch was slipping but a few beat sessions cleared that right up. Rear floor pan isn't in but the car has gas, drives, brakes, has working electronics. All the "oh oh" stuff has been completed


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## eighty6jetta (Oct 10, 2006)

you have been working alone time on this. i just finished my syncro in 3 months


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

thank for your useful post. THank the heavens there are people like you out there.

Try owning a house, 2 dogs, 3 cars and having other hobbies... all on a single income. Plus if I didn't have to make the rear floorpan, this would've been a significantly shorter time frame.

EDIT: bTW did you finish your 3.1L 24v on 12v software that passes emissions in that time too?


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

btw it was finished and running 3 days ago.


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## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

This fell off my watched topics... Looking good.


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## BaBy BoOeY (Feb 13, 2010)

All I have to say is props to you sir for taking on such a difficuilt project.....:beer::beer::beer:


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

BaBy BoOeY said:


> All I have to say is props to you sir for taking on such a difficuilt project.....:beer::beer::beer:


Thank you sir. Nice to know someone enjoys the posts I made....now I just need to get some of the final product up. I had to replace the main seal cause it was leaking and i just welded up some cracks in the aluminum oil pan... hopefully tomorrow..


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## 86blueberry (Dec 24, 2008)

*rear floor pan*

hey i saw you drained your gas tank and let it air out before you weld. If you did not weld the rear floor in yet FILL THE GAS TANK FULL OF GAS then weld the floor in. It is a lot safer to weld near a gas tank when it is full rather then empty cause its the fumes that are flammable not the liquid. But nic work man i have been asking you quite a few questions about my mkII gti syncro build. I have gotten all my parts and if you or anyone you know needs the rear subframe mounts i have found a guy that actually is machining them for me as i type. But very nice project man Mine will hopefully be up and running in the next month or sooner i have been working on this damn thing every day and night it seems haha so i know what you went througgh and more cause this stupid tunnle was a btich.


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

There are certainly people out there that need to brackets, so tell the engineering shop that they have a sellable product on their hands. I ended up wedling it with the gas drained, aired out and the fuel pump cap on. I was lucky. 

What people SHOULD do if they to weld close is actually fill the gas tank WITH WATER. I had a friend that aired his empty tank out for weeks, Filled it with water, drained it and started and it still blew up on him, so people need to be careful.

Fill the gas thank with water if u are welding near it. Its easy to drain with the fuel pump already in there.

Good luck on your project!


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

As far as I can tell from the pics, if you light off the fumes you're also close enough to burn a hole in the tank (which means you've gotta replace it anyway), so just remove gas tank (AND a major source of error in this project). Good luck, this is a sweet build man


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

Thanks, I ended up welding the core of the floor pan with the gas tank out, but I had to weld the top of the floor pan in, with the gas tank in. I didn't fill it with water, which was a huge mistake and almost blew of my car like 3 times.

The car runs and drives fine. I just had the clutch disc break break on an old "Works of Art" clutch, but that should be back together soon. Then it's off to making my rear camber and toe adjustments and putting/pressing in my new rear suspension bushings.


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

OKAY SO I figured it's time for me to at least give updates since the last thing I wrote was that the clutch had issues.

That issue is all fixed, but I decided to redo all the bushings and seal the rear diff carrier and control arms.

but before I got there I had to show what I did to finish welding up and sealing the rear floor pan.

This image below was my way of getting around the curve of the strut towers without making it a massive pain. 









here is another picture so you can see what I am talking about









The side effect of all those cuts and being completely paranoid of having it rot out, is that you have to weld up all those cuts. It doesn't look pretty, but nothing a bunch of 3M Seam Sealer doesn't fix 









This 3 following pictures if close ups of me sealing the welds and what I did with the rear wires.

























The overview before I put the POR15 on it









This is after the POR15 before I start welding in the top of the floor pan. This is what is exposed as the underside w/ the gas tank installed. *Again, the unfortunate part is, I am not able to remove the gas tank w/o cutting the previously welded in support beam, but why would I need to drop the tank? I made an access port for the fuel pump 









The pictures of the top and finished floor pan on are my other camera so I wlll add those to this post later. The post following this one is me getting the rear carrier+suspension all redone.*


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*Cleaning up the suspension + Carrier*

Again, some of my pictures were deleted, but I will get them up here for people to see.

For now I'll post what I have.

I had the process pictures, but this one is the sealed up rear control arms to prevent salt, water and anything evil from eating away at it. I wire brushed the hell out of it before doing it.









This is the rear main beam all taken apart (no control arms). I have to wirebrush it and weld on the next picture









I just made these tonight. It's the bracket needed to re-enforce and handle the added stress of having eccentric bolts to adjust camber +/- toe on the rear control arms. If you do a MK3 swap, your camber will be jacked and this is what you need to fix it. 









If you need to know how this bracket works w/ an eccentric bolt, here is my 30 sec video (QuickTime required) 
[video]http://homepage.mac.com/scott.z/Sites/Public/VW/BLACKGTI/SyncroSwap/Movies/bracket.mov[/video]

I'll post more about it and how it works later.

I had to notch out the stock mounting holes to adjust for the movement in the eccentric/adjustable bolt.

For the CAMBER, you adjust the inside brackets vertically. To Adjust toe, you do the same to the outer brackets, horizontally. Since I dont care about toe, this focus here is camber.









Okay so I got the brackets welded onto the factory mounting spots. You need it to re-enforce all the added pressure of an adjustable slot.

















Here is the eccentric bolt all the way up









All the way Down









Anywhere in between adjusts the 

*But I got this idea from here http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1671*


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## eighty6jetta (Oct 10, 2006)

yeah i built mine too. i gave it most positive camber and its sitting perfect, but my camber set is sitting flush with the bracket


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## syracusegli (Jan 22, 2005)

imo, id reconsider where you ran those wires in the corner of that sheet metal.. either fix up the edge or i forsee those wires rubbing the metal and then can cause all kinds of unwanted problems :thumbup:


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

I did, thank you.

I took a file to the sheet metal and I put seam sealer on the edges so it doesn't cut into it. Last thing I want is my main ground and power shorting out on my floor pan! 

Thanks though!


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

leave it to apple to change all the links that people have been using for 10 years....what a bunch of idiots! i'll get around to fixing the links, but i wouldn't recommend .mac to anyone for this reason.


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

*testing apples stupid new linking system*

Screw Apple and their STUPID STUPID STUUUUPID business decisions. YOu can view my gallery here.

http://gallery.me.com/scott.z


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## syracusegli (Jan 22, 2005)

:thumbup:


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

There is fixed all my links. The things I do for the internet!


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

Yearly bump for those you want to read it.


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## simon-says (Oct 21, 2007)

Zupek said:


> Yearly bump for those you want to read it.



I wanna see it.:thumbup:


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## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

simon-says said:


> I wanna see it.:thumbup:


Yeah yeah! Let's get an update!


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## simon-says (Oct 21, 2007)

Still wishing we had some pics.


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## Zupek (May 10, 2000)

check page 1, first post


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