# My Cam Chain Tensioner Exploded...Need some insight...



## RETROMAN (Mar 21, 2007)

So my car which is a 2007 Passat 2.0T BPY just reached 88k miles. Regular synthetic oil changes done every 5k miles.

So I was driving down the road and the car shut of and would not restart. Got it home and pulled the engine cover off to find that cam shaft end cover had a hole in it.. Took it all apart and discovered that my cam chain tensioner had exploded causing the timing chain to break and as a result put a hole in the cam shaft end cover.

Has anyone ever had this happen to them? I pulled the spark plugs out to check for "smiley faces" from valve interference on the pistions and they look untouched. Is this possible? Cam follower was also in very nice condition. 

Does anyone think I can get away with buying the parts needed to put it back together or should I pull the head? Would anything cause this besides a faulty tensioner?

Here are some pics of the damage:


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## g60mikey (Feb 11, 2003)

I have had a couple of passats come thru my shop that have done this. I you are the luckiest person alive it is possible that it did not bend the intake valves. The cars that I have seen do this usually bends the valves, only way to know is to do a new chain/tensioner check the cam gear teeth and run a compression check. I would also pull the oil pan and see if the pickup is sludged up since slightly low oil pressure seems to kill the cam chain. Oddly I have only seen passats do this and not golf/jettas.


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## GolfRS (Feb 4, 2006)

I had a head failure cause of a failing tensioner.

Those mofos are crap....

If you didn't bend any valves (don't see how that is even possible) go play the lottery...


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## RETROMAN (Mar 21, 2007)

I really appreciate the input guys. I have never had much luck with the lottery, but do you know if I could see any valve contact through the spark plug holes?

In your opinion do you the think I should pull the head and drop the pan to check for sludge? 

g60Mikey Aside from any valve damage do you think I should be ok with the bottom end? Does it usually bend all of the intake valves?

I found a post on here where the same thing happened and the person got away with just replacing the cam tensioner and related parts so I guess there was no valve damage.


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## g60mikey (Feb 11, 2003)

Dont feel bad lottery doesnt like me much either. I agree with Golfrs the tensioner is a bad design. I personally would pull the pan and check for sludge from my personal experience. The bottom end should be fine, the real question is where the intake cam stopped and if any of the intake valves made contact with pistons. The only way to truly know is put a new chain and tensioner if the cam chain teeth are not wrecked and run a compresion test. Looking down the plug holes will not tell much unless you have a borescope to get a good look with. You may have gotten lucky with the valves too you just have to do the above to find out.


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## RETROMAN (Mar 21, 2007)

alright cool, I'm gonna go for it!


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## RETROMAN (Mar 21, 2007)

Just wanted to update the thread. Did a leak down test and had lots of air escaping in each cylinder. So I pulled the head and all 8 intake valves were bent.

Though I did win $14 on a scratch off lotto ticket!


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## GolfRS (Feb 4, 2006)

RETROMAN said:


> Just wanted to update the thread. Did a leak down test and had lots of air escaping in each cylinder. So I pulled the head and all 8 intake valves were bent.
> 
> Though I did win €11 ($14) on a scratch off lotto ticket!


See ?

Both my predictions were true....


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## DUB_MANGv2 (Oct 28, 2008)

bump, will a bad cam follower cause the chain to break? mine just did and dealership theirs an open recall for the CF


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## Bo Toichi (Jan 15, 2013)

Did you let your oil level go low? These engines DRINK oil,and if you do not keep on top of it,the top end is the first place to starve from lack of lubrication/oil pressure. If that tensioner went slack......


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## xtravbx (May 21, 2005)

Bo Toichi said:


> Did you let your oil level go low? These engines DRINK oil,and if you do not keep on top of it,the top end is the first place to starve from lack of lubrication/oil pressure. If that tensioner went slack......



I don't like when people say that the FSI drinks oil. 

I have very little consumption. About 1 qt every 2500 miles. Tops.


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

Was your motor make more sound than usual before this happened? Before I replaced my tensioner the motors had quite a loud knocking sound.


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## Bo Toichi (Jan 15, 2013)

Would it make you "feel better" if I told you that TFSI's DRINK oil as well?????:laugh: Because they do!


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## xtravbx (May 21, 2005)

Bo Toichi said:


> Would it make you "feel better" if I told you that TFSI's DRINK oil as well?????:laugh: Because they do!


Hahah it does!

I'm just saying that as a whole I don't think they have oil consumption issues - and it gives them a bad wrap.


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## illinidorry (May 17, 2007)

My buddy has a Jetta that's been making what I would call a rattling sound that can really only be heard at idle. I wonder if this could be happening to his car. I was thinking a throw out bearing but I don't know anything about the 2 liters nor transmissions really. I do know the oil light came on a couple weeks ago and supposedly he had to put in at least 2 quarts. Car has 9x,xxx miles but I didn't know the maintenance intervals compared to the 1.8s.


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## DUB_MANGv2 (Oct 28, 2008)

my oil light never came on, and it happened at a red light.

has anyone been able to get their cam chains fixed under vw warranty?? i see plenty of threads of people posting they had theirs replaced along with the fuelpump,camshafts,cam followers etc... yet vw refuses to warranty mine.


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## ROH ECHT (Dec 9, 2010)

Can I get the part number for the cam tension cover?


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## donjuan1jr (Oct 8, 2008)

06F103107G

Id try to find one used on here, they cost ~500 bux. 

The tensioner isnt the problem, the guide breaks and all hell goes after that. I had one where the guide was gone and the chain was riding on the piston. Guy didnt want to do the work lol.


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## majic (Mar 10, 2005)

Tensioner broke on mine while decelerating from cruise speed. Got an oil pressure light, turned off immediately and coasted to stop.

No valves bent, no bearing issues after I replaced and restarted.

However, I think the intake cam was damaged, as I'm getting fuel rail pressure deviations. Meh... Intake cam isn't too expensive, just a PITA to replace.


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## ROH ECHT (Dec 9, 2010)

Thank you for the PN


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

Guys, I have a 2006 A3 2.0T FSI.

What preventive mantention should I do to prevent this?

Thanks in advance.


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

Keep your oil topped off and replace the parts if they start getting louder.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

Tutti57 said:


> Keep your oil topped off and replace the parts if they start getting louder.


Yes I try to top off the oil always.

Wht parts should be replaced, chain and tensioner?

Is there a parts nunbers and the DIY? Thanks,,


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## TAA_2012 (Jul 26, 2013)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> Yes I try to top off the oil always.
> 
> Wht parts should be replaced, chain and tensioner?
> 
> Is there a parts nunbers and the DIY? Thanks,,



I did this myself as preventive maintenance shortly after getting the HPFP, cam, and follower replaced under warranty (with only 2,000 miles to spare!). It was in the dead of winter (THE POLAR VORTEX ) and I would hear it rattle a little until the oil warmed up.

You basically take the valve cover, HPFP, and cam chain (in OP picture) off. Then lock the cams with the appropriate T10252 (or inappropriate) tool. The most important thing is that you'll need a #10 poly-drive bit (http://www.metalnerd.com/cat05.htm, scroll to the bottom, PN MNT4080). YOU CANNOT USE A TORX! I thought I was on top of things because I ordered the bit and wouldn't you know it the dealer had stripped the bolt during the warranty repair . I had to drill the bolt out which was nerve racking to say the least. Took about an hour with lots of WD-40 for coolant and debris removal. The worst part is I was using my father-in-law's garage which is four hours away from home (I thought it would only take a couple of hours and my wife could spend time with the family....not so...almost didn't get it finished before we had to leave)

Anyways, you have to remove the hydraulic adjuster (the big sprocket with the #10 polydrive bolt). The tensioner won't fit through the chains and the sprockets (I tried this when I discovered the stripped bolt). Before you do, mark several points on the chain and sprockets for reference! Transfer marks to new chain (via counting). Take the hydraulic adjuster and tensioner off. I found it easiest to put the new chain on the intake cam then, while holding the hydraulic adjuster in hand, put the chain around that and sort of "angle" it into place. The hydraulic adjuster can only go on "one way" because there is a notch and groove connection. It went on in two seconds. The Bentley had some convoluted way of turning the cams while doing this (IIRC) and at that point I was using my alcohol infused confidence to say screw you Bentley and do it my way. Besides, if I had to turn the cams that would have defeated the purpose of my $90 cam locking tool.

Assuming you have taken your HPFP off before (and you know if you have that ridiculous banjo bolt or not), then it should only take a couple hours given no hang-ups like stripped bolt heads and you're good with a wrench...

PNs:

Valve Cover Gasket (can't hurt to replace): 06F103483D
Valve Cover Bolts (I ordered a few because other people said they can strip easily...and they did): 06B103831J
Cam Bolt (Even if it hadn't been stripped I would have replaced it): 06D109281D
Tensioner: 06F109217A
Chain: 06D109229B


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

TAA_2012 said:


> I did this myself as preventive maintenance shortly after getting the HPFP, cam, and follower replaced under warranty (with only 2,000 miles to spare!). It was in the dead of winter (THE POLAR VORTEX ) and I would hear it rattle a little until the oil warmed up.
> 
> You basically take the valve cover, HPFP, and cam chain (in OP picture) off. Then lock the cams with the appropriate T10252 (or inappropriate) tool. The most important thing is that you'll need a #10 poly-drive bit (http://www.metalnerd.com/cat05.htm, scroll to the bottom, PN MNT4080). YOU CANNOT USE A TORX! I thought I was on top of things because I ordered the bit and wouldn't you know it the dealer had stripped the bolt during the warranty repair . I had to drill the bolt out which was nerve racking to say the least. Took about an hour with lots of WD-40 for coolant and debris removal. The worst part is I was using my father-in-law's garage which is four hours away from home (I thought it would only take a couple of hours and my wife could spend time with the family....not so...almost didn't get it finished before we had to leave)
> 
> ...


Man this is the best DIY ive read. Thanks


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

That sums it up well. That poly drive bolt was really in mine. I thought I was going to break something taking it out. 

You can do a search for specialty tool program and get the tools that way.


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## TAA_2012 (Jul 26, 2013)

Also, I can't remember what the torque spec on the cam bolt is but it is surprisingly low.

Also also, pics of the extraction of the cam bolt. Drilled through the bolt, hammered an EZ-Out in, and turned. Amazed that I drilled pretty much straight through. Did it free hand but looking back I should have been smart and made a centering jig.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

Hey guys, posted this on the wrong thread on this forum, I did this vid today meant for this thread. 

I started the car, and the ticking was so loud that I went there and took the videoclip.

0:15 the ticking sound at HPFP/camchain area discussed on this thread.

Also last second is the odd intake knocking sound because of the block off plate.


Is this normal? should I service the cam chain and tensioner with the info on post number 24


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

anyone?


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

Sounds like a bad tensioner to me.


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## Sandman333 (Oct 28, 2002)

I wonder if breaking that poly drive free with the proper bit and an impact gun would be a better solution? If you've ever worked on the first generation Ford 5.4L Triton 3V engines, you know about the two piece spark plugs that almost always break in the cylinder head once then engine goes beyond 60K miles. Once solution that works often is to impact them out on a warm, not hot, engine. Most often, using an impact to remove spark plugs from a warm aluminum head would be a really bad idea, but I've done quite a few and never stripped threads. If these plugs break, you have to have a special tool from OTC to remove the rest of the plug from the head. The only other solution is to remove the cylinder head. 

I wonder if the shock of the impact would make removing this poly drive bolt easier? 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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