# manual setup: running air lines on a mkiv



## slawny091 (Jan 18, 2009)

I am in the process of installing my manual air setup. I plan on running everything to the center console as far as management goes (i.e. gauges and paddle switches).

How are you guys running your lines from the tank to the gauges/paddle switches to the bags? I removed the splash guards in the rear to gain a better perspective, but still need some insight.

If anyone has any pics or insight please chime in. All help is appreciated. :thumbup:

(already searched as well)


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## Slamtastic (Jul 24, 2010)

I ran mine from the tank underneath the carpet to the center console where the paddles were.

I went back underneath the carpet and through the abs grommets for the rear.

For the front I kept going straight through the center console, went through the firewall (there is a grommet right behind the intake hose), then fed them into the wheel wells.


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## slawny091 (Jan 18, 2009)

dubbin18 said:


> I ran mine from the tank underneath the carpet to the center console where the paddles were.
> 
> I went back underneath the carpet and through the abs grommets for the rear.
> 
> For the front I kept going straight through the center console, went through the firewall (there is a grommet right behind the intake hose), then fed them into the wheel wells.


did you run the line directly thought the center of the car under he carpet? it seems tight under there and seemed like there was chance for pinching the lines under the carpet.


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## Slamtastic (Jul 24, 2010)

Yup right through the center, that way no one could step on it. If you lift the plastic on the rear door sills and take out the center console, it's very easy to run the lines. I never had a problem with the lines getting kinked , bent or pinched.


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## Twilliams83 (Jan 25, 2011)

Mines along side my driver side panel then under the plastic door seal then into my dash and out the center console under my seat where the switches are mounted.


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## slawny091 (Jan 18, 2009)

Twilliams83 said:


> Mines along side my driver side panel then under the plastic door seal then into my dash and out the center console under my seat where the switches are mounted.


this is the route i'm going, except on the passenger side. was it difficult to route your lines through the cross bar in front of the passenger/driver seat?


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## Twilliams83 (Jan 25, 2011)

slawny091 said:


> this is the route i'm going, except on the passenger side. was it difficult to route your lines through the cross bar in front of the passenger/driver seat?


not quite understanding your question. sorry


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## slawny091 (Jan 18, 2009)

Twilliams83 said:


> not quite understanding your question. sorry


if you lift the carpet up in front of the driver and passenger seat, theres a black cross beam bolted to the frame with some wires running underneath it. is this where you ran your lines to the center console? this is what i plan on doing, just not sure how difficult it will be without lifting the carpet up.


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## joelzy (Aug 20, 2007)

i ran everything outside, would probably run it inside if i did it all over again though.
this was the diagram i laid out before attempting, though when i changed it up the paddle placement and everything out back moved around a bit.








did bulkheads out of the spare tire well and down the fuel lines, up the frame rail and across the bay to the grommet.


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## Niagara_V_Dub (Sep 25, 2007)

Joelyz, Your the man! (or woman?) that is what I have been searching for. Thank you soooo much.

:thumbup:


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## Dreamstate (Jan 2, 2002)

Here's a simplified diagram of the setup that I have done in the past.
Bringing a larger hose up into the dash area and manifolding there is good if you don't want to run multiple lines from the tank. 










I also ran a 140-175 pressure switch on the tank to aid in quicker lifting response.


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## Twilliams83 (Jan 25, 2011)

slawny091 said:


> if you lift the carpet up in front of the driver and passenger seat, theres a black cross beam bolted to the frame with some wires running underneath it. is this where you ran your lines to the center console? this is what i plan on doing, just not sure how difficult it will be without lifting the carpet up.


oh my lines are just under the seat. as my switches are on the side of the seat where power seat controls would be. so you dont see the lines.


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## slawny091 (Jan 18, 2009)

joelzy said:


> i ran everything outside, would probably run it inside if i did it all over again though.
> this was the diagram i laid out before attempting, though when i changed it up the paddle placement and everything out back moved around a bit.
> 
> 
> ...


nice diagram :thumbup:

so it seems like some of your lines are longer than others, does your car lift and lower evenly?


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## joelzy (Aug 20, 2007)

i wondered about that when we put it together. 
the fronts go up evenly and the rears do the same, but the fronts come up slower than the rears. 
this is to be expected though even if all lines were the same length because the RE-5s take much less air to get up than the airlift struts


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## 2EZ4ME (Dec 23, 2004)

When you guys ran the lines through the center under the carpet, did you guys use alot of 90 ptc's to get to the paddles and once out in the bay to get to wells? Just making sure i get what i need before install day is here. Also since front struts turn some how do people have that routed?

Any pics of installs or any key notes for when i start?


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## joelzy (Aug 20, 2007)

the line is fairly flexible, i'd use as few fittings as possible as they are just another break in the solid line where there is an opportunity for a leak. 
it makes sense to 90 when space is limited but if you have the room i suggest solid line.
struts move a little so leave a little slack but nothing crazy, i just made sure they were facing inward.


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## 2EZ4ME (Dec 23, 2004)

Sounds good.....it should be here this week and cant wait to tear into it.


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## Minor_Threat (May 12, 2009)

manual setups I do i always run the lines in the car, drill a hole running the lines to the bags. then t fitting all the supply lines to the paddles into 1 line into the tank


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## jettaaddictionII (Sep 3, 2011)

Dreamstate said:


> Here's a simplified diagram of the setup that I have done in the past.
> Bringing a larger hose up into the dash area and manifolding there is good if you don't want to run multiple lines from the tank.
> 
> 
> ...


sorry to bump this old thread, but in the manual management im looking at, i do not see the 'valve' included that you have the one line from the tank into and then into the switches, i way i see it the switches are the valves? :beer: sorry for the n00b Qs


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## Twilliams83 (Jan 25, 2011)

jettaaddictionII said:


> sorry to bump this old thread, but in the manual management im looking at, i do not see the 'valve' included that you have the one line from the tank into and then into the switches, i way i see it the switches are the valves? :beer: sorry for the n00b Qs


hey man, you will use 3 Y PTC fittings to split the lines into 4 to go into the backs of the switches. Or if you would like you could run 2 lines to the switches and split them to get the 4, the more lines you run to the switches from the tank the faster the car will, lift. I have 1 line split into 4 and its not bad but if i were to do it again i would have done 2. If you have anymore questions feel free to pm me. :thumbup:


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## Dreamstate (Jan 2, 2002)

I think what jettaaddiction is confused about is what the valve is.

Yes, the switches themselves are the valves. This is why it is called a manual system, you are actuating the valves directly.


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## jay22 (Sep 6, 2010)

When you ran the single line from the tank and then split it into 4 lines going to the paddles, what size line did you use? I would assume larger than 1/2"? What about you guys who ran two lines from the tank to the paddles? thanks :thumbup:


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## jettaaddictionII (Sep 3, 2011)

yea, i eventually figured it out, just being a n00b about air, it confused me at first


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## Twilliams83 (Jan 25, 2011)

I ran 1/4 inch line.


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## Dreamstate (Jan 2, 2002)

I believe I ran around 3/8". You don't need to double the size of the line to double the flow.


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## Niagara_V_Dub (Sep 25, 2007)

You can run 2 3/8ths lines split into 4 and it will flow as fast as 4 1/4's. The internal diameter of the 1/4's is less than half of the 3/8ths it works. Here is the math thanks to mecheng.

1/4" tubing ID - .17" = .085" radius
3/8" tubing ID - .25" = 0.125" radius
1/2" tubing ID - .375" = 0.175" radius

So to get the flow for all 4 valves at the same time it would be need to be fed by two lines of D size.

A=pi*r^2
A=3.14 * (.085) * .085
A= 0.0227 in^2

So to split the flow from 4 lines of this size into two lines multiply this number by 4 and divide this number by 2.

B=0.045373 in^2
r=sqrt(B/pi)
r=sqrt(0.045373/3.14)
r=.12


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## jay22 (Sep 6, 2010)

^ wow awesome info! Thank you guys


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## Dreamstate (Jan 2, 2002)

Also, if you keep the pressure in the tank high, you will have a lot more flow.
I only ran a single 3/8" line, but ran a higher pressure switch, around the 170psi mark. The tank was always high pressure which allowed for faster filling.
One more reason I only ran a single line is that it I would only adjust the front or the rear at one time, lifting the whole car at once was a bit cumbersome with the manual valves in my setup.


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