# VW CC Remote Start / SmartStart Installation Guide



## MikeinNJ (May 9, 2007)

*2011-2013 VW CC Remote Start Install Guide*

*2009-2010 has a slightly different CECM version but the below still applies. Use Type 2A installation for these years.*

**Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage you do to your vehicle. **

*Parts you will need:*
*An extra keyfob/immobilizer chip to sacrifice*
*Xpresskit DB-ALL* (~$50)
*Xpresskit RFLUB* (~$5-10) (http://www.amazon.com/Directed-Electronics-RFLUB-Universal-Transponder/dp/B002JIN4Z4)
*Generic Automotive relay* (~$2) (Usually $2 from most parts stores, make sure it has the same numbered terminals (30/85/86/87/87a) as this one: http://www.amazon.com/Absolute-RLS1...d=1389189977&sr=1-2&keywords=automotive+relay

*Optional Parts:*
*Xpresskit XKLOADER2* (~$25) Useful for flashing/reflashing/customizing starttimes/options on the DB-ALL firmware. I highly recommend purchasing if you are going to change the configuration or do more than one car. Many ebay sellers will program the DB-ALL for you however, more on that later. http://www.amazon.com/Directed-Elec...UTF8&qid=1389190254&sr=1-1&keywords=xkloader2

*Directed DSM200/250 or Viper VSM200/250* (~$90 refurbed on ebay/~$150 new) - This is the cellular add-on that enables SmartStart from the iPhone/Android app. These are the same module with different brand names stamped on them, they function the same. The 200 series is the basic model, the 250 adds GPS functionality for locating your car lo-jack style and tracking location/speed.

*Tools Needed:*
Torx 20 Screwdriver
Trim Removal Kit
Soldering iron/solder or use T-taps
Electrical Tape

*Step 1: Programming the DB-ALL Module*

If you are flashing the module yourself, you will need to make a free account on Xpresskit.com. You need to use Internet Explorer to flash.

If you do not want to purchase the XKLOADER2 flasher module, many ebay sellers will gladly flash the DB-ALL for you before sending it out to you. Make sure you tell them the year/make model of your car. You will need to tell them you want it with the following options:

*** Ask for 401.VW02 v3.37 Alpha Firmware*** The current 401.VW02 v3.36 firmware sends a false positive brake signal and causes the remote start to not work with the 2013 model. 3.36 worked fine on an 06 Jetta I did, but it was incompatible with my 2013 CC. If you are flashing the DB-ALL by yourself, use the Xpresskit Online Chat or call them to request temporary 24 hour access to the alpha firmware.
*RSR (Remote Start Ready) Config* - This is the option that enables the 3x Lock Button start and actually allows the DB-ALL to act as a remote starter and not just as a breakout box to feed into a full blown remote start/security system.
*3x Lock Start Enabled* - Actually allows you to start the car with the lock button on the factory keyfob
*SmartStart Enabled (Optional)* - Must be checked if you plan on using with the DSM200/250 SmartStart modules
*Start-up Runtime (0-60 minutes)* - I chose 30 minutes. After this allotted time, the car will turn off if not unlocked and driven.

You can see the current production firmware here: http://www.xpresskit.com/VehicleCom...make=Volkswagen&model=Passat CC&ps=1&s=0&c=0#

I wish I had screenshots of programming the module, but I would have to uninstall the module again to get the flasher screen up again.

*Step 2: Opening the dash*
Set your seat to a comfortable working position and back a bit; you will be disconnecting the battery and unable to move the seat for a bit. Now disconnect the battery.

Use a trim removal tool to pry off the trim around the radio. Start from the bottom left or right and work your way around; do not unplug the hazard switch unless you have VCDS to clear the resulting code. Next pry off the trim around the gauges. Start from the right side; it’s easier to get under there with the radio trim off. I just pulled the trim off by hand once I got the first few clips off. Lift it up and away (Clip locations circled in red, screws in green):


Next, set the headlight switch to ‘0’, push in, turn to the right and pull out. Remove connector from the back of the switch. Take out the Torx 20 screw from behind. 


Now, pop off the fuse panel cover on the left side of the dash, and remove the two T-20 screws behind it.


This is a bit of a tricky part; remove the bezel from around the keyring. You can either use the trim removal tool or stick your fingers in the keyhole and pull outward that way; the retention clips are on the left and right of the of the bezel.


Now set the steering column down low and pull toward you, lock it in place. You can now pop the driver’s side dash panel outward. Pull up the leather skirt that attaches to the steering column. It will lift out. Start from the left or right side and it should come right out. Removing this will allow you to slide the dash panel out of the way a bit.


Now, you want to unplug the ignition barrel. The red clip on the back slides up, then push down on the black tongue and pull the harness out. I redid all my connections with solder after taking these pics. T-taps were crappy.


Move on to the driver’s footwell area and remove the 3x T-20 screws that hold the plastic shield underneath. This will reveal the CECM. Remove the driver’s kick panel, this will reveal a ground screw. Sorry forgot pics of this process. There are several other guides on how to remove the hood lever and kick panel. Check this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dU00cH-WoZg
And this thread: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3250572

CECM Orange Connector: Push in on the little orange plastic tab and the white tensioner clip will lift up and enable you to remove the entire orange plug from the CECM:

You can then slide the outer orange shell off and reveal the actual connectors that make up the plug.

*Step 3: Wiring*
There are two main spots that you will need to splice into. The big orange plug in the CECM and the harness that we pulled out of the ignition cylinder.

Link to the offical RSR Install PDF (2011-13 are install type 2B; for 2009-2010, follow Type 2A): http://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=9263&productid=461&firmwareid=5287

The following wire connections need to be made:

*DB-ALL Blue Harness <--------------------------------------------------> Orange CECM Plug*
Orange/Green Pin 5 to Orange/Green Pin 15
Orange/Brown Pin 6 to Orange/Brown Pin 16
*Yellow/Red Pin 11 + Yellow Pin 8 + Red Pin 13 to Red Pin 1 *
* Any constant 12v source can be used for these three wires. I soldered the three of them to one small wire and soldered that to the Red Pin 1 on the CECM to reduce clutter near the CECM.
*
Black Pin 14 must go to ground. Crimp on an O-ring and use the ground post that was revealed under the kick panel.

*DB-ALL Blue Harness <--------------------------------------------------> Ignition Switch Harness*
Brown/Red Pin 12 to Red/Brown Pin 6
Brown Pin 12 + DB-ALL Black Harness (Pink Pin 9) to Red/Green Pin 5 

*DB-ALL Red Harness <--------------> Orange CECM Plug*
Gray Pin 6	to Red/Black Pin 17

*Automotive Relay <--------------> DB-ALL Red Harness *
Pin 85 to Orange/Black Pin 11
*Automotive Relay <--------------> Ignition Switch Harness*
Pin 30 to Green Pin 16 
*Automotive Relay <--------------> Orange CECM Plug*
Pin 86 + Pin 87 to Red Pin 1 (Once again, any 12v constant will work for these two)	

* You do not need to connect the hazard activation output for our cars. Also do not need to connect the hood pin for our cars. These are done over CANBUS. You can optionally connect a toggle switch to ground as an emergency shutoff. 

The official diagram:


*Step 4: Installing the Immobilizer Loop*

For this part you can use the Xpresskit Universal RFLUB Antenna, which requires gluing the RFLUB’s inline resistor to the little immobilizer chip inside of the keyfob (requires opening up the keyfob). Carefully pry the pill out out of the keyfob, glue it to the resistor, and heatshrink it. The immobilizer pill slot will be similar to this:









Then, run the end of the antenna with the loop on it up to the ignition cylinder hole to the empty space that the keyring bezel normally covers.

With just the immobilizer pill in the car, there's no chance of a thief just digging a keyfob out of the dash and driving off. There HAS to be a keyfob in the ignition for you to be able to drive off. Otherwise the car shuts off and the immobilizer engages immediately.

The two pin connector goes to the 2-pin white RF output on the DB-ALL, as shown on the official diagram above. 

Now you are ready to plug the harnesses into the DB-ALL: 


*SmartStart Install (Optional):
*
You will need to connect the 12v Red and Ground wires for this module, you can use the same Orange Pin 1 and Kick panel ground posts for this step. Read the instructions for cutting the grey wire that came with your VSM/DSM200 module; there are different revisions that are slightly different for wiring. I didn’t have to cut any wires for my module.

Connect the white D2D wire from the SmartStart module to the white D2D port on the DB-ALL. I moved the DSM200 up above my fuse block and secured with double sided tape:


*Step 5: Initializing and Testing*

This is a good time to double check all connections. Reconnect the battery and follow the DB-ALL initialization procedure. This is documented on Page 12 of the DB-ALL RSR Manual linked above and also here: http://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=9263&productid=461&firmwareid=5287

Once initialization procedure is complete, test the remote start with the 3x Lock button. If all is well, you will hear the DB-ALL and relay clicking, the steering wheel immobilizer light will show yellow, the car will go into ACC mode, then it will start. If it starts, congrats! Test the brake shutoff by hitting the footbrake; the car should shut off. Then start it again with the 3x lock button sequence, wait for everything to start up, then hit unlock on the keyfob, push the fob into the dash as you normally would. THEN, hit the footbrake. The car should not shut off if the fob is in the dash. This is the takeover sequence for getting in and driving off without having to shutdown and restart the car. 






Notice the yellow steering wheel immobilizer light at about 0:03; this means that the DB-ALL triggered the antenna, which carried the signal from the immobilizer chip to the ignition switch. If this light goes red when starting, check your antenna wiring. The car will not start and will display an Immobilizer error if the light goes red; it will essentially think it is being hotwired since it's getting ignition without the immobilizer chip in the ignition barrel.

*Step 6: Re-assembly*

If all is well, push the wiring/DB-ALL/immobilizer chip up under the dash. I pushed most of it into the big open void underneath the ignition cylinder; the area directly above the footwell/around the vents is way too tight for this. Now test everything again and look at all connections to make sure they are secure. Re-assemble the dashboard in the reverse order that you disassembled it.

*Step 7 (Optional): Activating SmartStart*

Normally, only an Authorized installer can activate a SmartStart module. I found a login to their installer site. After you have your SmartStart module installed and both green and amber LEDs are lit up solid and not flashing, you are ready to activate. It can take several hours for the LEDs to stop flashing; this is the module finding a signal and doing any firmware updates over the air. Once you are ready to activate go to: http://managesmartstart.com/install/login?timeout

Login with username: dei1 and password: dei1

Once logged in, put in the AirID of your module (printed on the side of it, 8 digits) and it should find the module, and you can run all the test commands from the website (start/lock/unlock/trunk) and once you verify all of those work, put in the customer info (your email/phone number) and hit activate. Then you'll get the customer email with the link to activate it as an end user and choose a plan. Just make sure everything is installed and working before you try to activate the module as the smartstart modules can only be activated once.

Download the app to your phone after signing up to the service and login:



*Notes:*

Make sure to read the DB-ALL instructions for our car THOROUGHLY. (Once again: http://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=9263&productid=461&firmwareid=5287)

That PDF will have pretty much everything you need to know in it for the install. This guide that I have written is meant to supplement and clear up any of the confusion that I had installing using that PDF. 

I am not responsible for any damage you do to your vehicle; feel free to post any questions in this thread.

Hope this helps! Sorry for the long wait on this, it's been a crazy couple of months! :beer::beer:


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## jigubhai2001 (Oct 23, 2012)

:thumbup::thumbup: Thanks for the write. I having been thinking about getting this install done for quite some time now. This should help. Approximately how long did this take you???


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## MikeinNJ (May 9, 2007)

jigubhai2001 said:


> :thumbup::thumbup: Thanks for the write. I having been thinking about getting this install done for quite some time now. This should help. Approximately how long did this take you???


The first time around, trouble shooting and figuring it all out.. a couple days of non-stop messing around. 

The second time around with this install method, it took about 2-3 hours. A week later I did the install on my friends 06 Jetta (VERY similar install) and I was done completely in under 90 minutes.

I would allot a full day (6-8 hours) to it if it's your first time, especially if you haven't opened your dash before.


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## VdubTX (Jul 5, 2003)

Nice! 

I would totally do this if I was not turning in later this year.


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## cc6mt (Dec 13, 2013)

I wonder if it will work with compustar kit I have, looks similar to dball unit and it can accept express card for push to start cars, I do like the option of using cc's oem key fob though. time to do some research ..


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## TyphoonSushi (Sep 19, 2013)

I used to work for a company that partnered with Viper in creating the smartstart. Our product is the gps part.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## new2me (Feb 29, 2012)

If you use the RFLUB do you leave the Yellow/Black remote wire disconnected and just use the relay to make the bridge for the ignition harness?


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## DarthBajan (Oct 22, 2008)

Would the Xpresskit DBALL2 work for a 2009 CC? Or should we stick to the Xpresskit DB-ALL?


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## new2me (Feb 29, 2012)

xpress says it works. I'll let you know tomorrow after I wire it into my car.


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

This is awesome.
I would pay for this.


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## DarthBajan (Oct 22, 2008)

new2me said:


> xpress says it works. I'll let you know tomorrow after I wire it into my car.


Ok let me know. I'm on the verge of ordering everything I need. I just need to figure out what the difference between the two is. 

SwiftKey Flowed from my tiny Galaxy Note 3


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## DarthBajan (Oct 22, 2008)

Got it up and running. Thanks for your help MikeinNJ.


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## Mohamedd N N (Dec 29, 2013)

Have any of you guys done it on a manual transmission car??? :roll eyes:

As i mentioned to 'munnarg' on another thread, on the website of some installation guidance, it clearly states the following.



image upload no size limit

So is it true that only Automatics can enjoy this feature???


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## MikeinNJ (May 9, 2007)

Mohamedd N N said:


> Have any of you guys done it on a manual transmission car??? :roll eyes:
> 
> As i mentioned to 'munnarg' on another thread, on the website of some installation guidance, it clearly states the following.
> 
> ...


Manuals can do it too, but will require an extra component. You will need to add on a dedicated Viper Remote Starter (Viper 5101 is basic and cheap; will work with SmartStart and the DBALL) This module adds in manual trans capability. You basically have to do a combination of parking brake/key turn/keyfob button press before exiting the car if you plan on remote starting. It's not too bad, not much more of a routine than normally exiting the car. 

Also, installers could never do this for legal reasons but... just install just the DBALL/SmartStart anyway and treat it the same as an automatic car. They have the same fundamental immobilizer and ignition systems/start up wiring. But if you leave your car in gear/no ebrake and remote start, you're gonna have a bad time... So don't do it. Unless you want to.


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## seanh287 (Feb 28, 2005)

Everyday I am leaning more and more towards a CC over the a4. Great article!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## DarthBajan (Oct 22, 2008)

For anyone hesitant to do this for fear of losing a key, I was able to tape the RFLUB to the bottom half of the key directly on the immobilizer pill. Push come to shove I can always take it off and put the key back together. 









SwiftKey Flowed from my tiny Galaxy Note 3


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## Mohamedd N N (Dec 29, 2013)

MikeinNJ said:


> Manuals can do it too, but will require an extra component. You will need to add on a dedicated Viper Remote Starter (Viper 5101 is basic and cheap; will work with SmartStart and the DBALL) This module adds in manual trans capability. You basically have to do a combination of parking brake/key turn/keyfob button press before exiting the car if you plan on remote starting. It's not too bad, not much more of a routine than normally exiting the car.
> 
> Also, installers could never do this for legal reasons but... just install just the DBALL/SmartStart anyway and treat it the same as an automatic car. They have the same fundamental immobilizer and ignition systems/start up wiring. But if you leave your car in gear/no ebrake and remote start, you're gonna have a bad time... So don't do it. Unless you want to.


thanks!!! glad to hear that there is a way around it for manual.

so this is the component the installation requires?? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Viper-510...r_Alarms_Security_Systems&hash=item1c224755b1

so do i follow your installation above? or it is completely different guidelines? would i be able use the original keyfob to remote start the car? or i do need to use the Viper extra remotes?

i am sorry, I'm kinda lost here! what did you mean by 'do a combination of parking brake/key turn/keyfob button press before exiting the car'?

what legal reasons?

so if i follow your installation guidance above, and of course making sure the care is also off-gear and e-braked., would it work just fine? or i need to have the Viper5101?

once again, I'm not getting what you;re trying to say? :what:


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## MikeinNJ (May 9, 2007)

Mohamedd N N said:


> thanks!!! glad to hear that there is a way around it for manual.
> 
> so this is the component the installation requires?? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Viper-510...r_Alarms_Security_Systems&hash=item1c224755b1
> 
> ...


If you lookup and find the user manual for the 5101, the combination of brake/key turn/fob is a routine that all remote start systems have for manual transmission mode. I forget what the exact procedure is, but it's in the user guide for the product. The DBALL will plug into the 5101, but you will not get factory fob integration. The programming of the DBALL will also be slightly different with a 5101. You will only be able to use the Viper remote to start (and smartphone if you buy the smartstart, but that's US only as far as I know.)

You can forgo the 5101 and just wire it just as if it were automatic. However in the US, if an installer does this, they can be in legal trouble. Installing a remote start system without a dedicated manual transmission mode (aka, the special shutdown combination that forces you to confirm that the car is not being left in gear with no parking brake) is illegal for a professional installer to do, hence the disclaimer picture that you posted. They are covering themselves in the event someone installs it anyway and runs their car into a wall. If you do it yourself, then you are taking the obvious risk that you forget to put your car in neutral/engage parking brake and your car then takes off when you remote start. Don't be this guy: http://jalopnik.com/5500228/dealership-remote-starts-customers-mustang-into-pond-car-totalled

Also, I know that in many European countries, idling is illegal and thus remote starts are too. This is why most Euro cars do not have a factory remote start option while even the most basic Chevy's have them from factory. A plug-in engine block heater is the preferred solution in many European countries for low temp starting.

You should be just fine using the instructions above. My brother has a manual trans Suzuki, works no problem for him. You just need to understand the risk involved.


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## superwtc (Feb 19, 2006)

Have you tried the latest firmware for the dball, 401.VW02 v3.45?


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## DarthBajan (Oct 22, 2008)

superwtc said:


> Have you tried the latest firmware for the dball, 401.VW02 v3.45?


That's the one I'm currently using and it's working fine. I also installed the DBALL2 instead of the DBALL in the OP.


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## Shobhz (Mar 3, 2014)

is there a monthly charge to be able to use the app?


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## DarthBajan (Oct 22, 2008)

Shobhz said:


> is there a monthly charge to be able to use the app?


Here you go.


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## Mohamedd N N (Dec 29, 2013)

MikeinNJ said:


> If you lookup and find the user manual for the 5101, the combination of brake/key turn/fob is a routine that all remote start systems have for manual transmission mode. I forget what the exact procedure is, but it's in the user guide for the product. The DBALL will plug into the 5101, but you will not get factory fob integration. The programming of the DBALL will also be slightly different with a 5101. You will only be able to use the Viper remote to start (and smartphone if you buy the smartstart, but that's US only as far as I know.)
> 
> You can forgo the 5101 and just wire it just as if it were automatic. However in the US, if an installer does this, they can be in legal trouble. Installing a remote start system without a dedicated manual transmission mode (aka, the special shutdown combination that forces you to confirm that the car is not being left in gear with no parking brake) is illegal for a professional installer to do, hence the disclaimer picture that you posted. They are covering themselves in the event someone installs it anyway and runs their car into a wall. If you do it yourself, then you are taking the obvious risk that you forget to put your car in neutral/engage parking brake and your car then takes off when you remote start. Don't be this guy: http://jalopnik.com/5500228/dealership-remote-starts-customers-mustang-into-pond-car-totalled
> 
> ...



Thank you so much man for the explanation!! 

I actually have a friend who is a traffic officer, and i asked about the regulations with the Remote Start in the UK.

He clearly stated that it is ILLEGAL for companies to offer fitting it for Manuals, but he said that Automatics have no issue as long as it is fitted with the right settings.

i asked him how could you stop people and ask them to perform this to ensure it is within the legal restrictions!!! :laugh: :laugh:

Well, long story short! he said as long as you got it fitted yourself (no registered company would do it) with the Safety feature included (for manuals), you have nothing to worry about , but and you can not use it in Public! 

So in my case, i am allowed to have it started in my Closed Garage, but not on the road side. 

I will give it a go, and ensure to find the safety feature to ensure it does not work if either the e-park or the gear are engaged.

Thank you once again, i will try it out. The last thing i want is to get my car towed away or pay a fine for this feature.


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## Mohamedd N N (Dec 29, 2013)

Just to add to my point above, in order not to be misunderstood for others.

the reasoning behind the 'Idling Ban' is to protect the environment. So it is an environmentally friendly regulation, and as far as you all know, in Europe, it has the highest ranking priority, and the law is pretty tight on this matter.

But as far as you only remote start your car to warm up (i would say never more than 15 mins), i do 5 mins usually! this should do just fine! 

No actual rules banning the fitting of such system, but the operation it provides is the main concern for emissions.

I needed to clarify this, as some people have PM'd me asking about what exactly i was told by the traffic officer, as they were worried they will face trouble.

*I take no responsibility, as this is my own opinion to this matter and it might be wrong from other perspectives.


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## Acampbell128 (Sep 10, 2013)

if im reading this correctly, the DSM/VSM part is not needed and only optional? Also, how do you remove the transponder from the key fob? The picture posted isn't of a CC key fob.


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## DarthBajan (Oct 22, 2008)

You're correct, the smart start module is optional. I didn't remove the pill from my key either. I simply taped the RFLUB to it so the parts were close together. 










SwiftKey Flowed from my tiny Galaxy Note 3.


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## dr1ve (Aug 17, 2014)

.


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## Andhop72 (Dec 3, 2012)

Hi I just purchased everything to do this install but after going on the website there is a message stating that RSR 3X start will no longer be supported. Does any one know if this is correct. I want to install this the same exact way the original poster did and am hoping it will still work correctly.


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## lowpassat (Jul 15, 2008)

Andhop72 said:


> Hi I just purchased everything to do this install but after going on the website there is a message stating that RSR 3X start will no longer be supported. Does any one know if this is correct. I want to install this the same exact way the original poster did and am hoping it will still work correctly.


This is correct. I'm a rep for the biggest distributor in Canada and i can confirm this. They decided to pull the plug on the 3x lock start function this year. A big mistake in my opinion as it was a best seller but the were losing sales on conventionnal starters.

You can use the 4X10 instead wich will do the 3x lock start but it's more expensive.

Anyone who have bought a dball or dball2 and already have the active function won't lose it but if your module isn't flashed yet, forget it.

Even for me, they can't unlock it 


Since you already purchased everything, just do the install and use your phone to start the car. That's what i'm having installed at the office on my CC.


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## Andhop72 (Dec 3, 2012)

lowpassat said:


> This is correct. I'm a rep for the biggest distributor in Canada and i can confirm this. They decided to pull the plug on the 3x lock start function this year. A big mistake in my opinion as it was a best seller but the were losing sales on conventionnal starters.
> 
> You can use the 4X10 instead wich will do the 3x lock start but it's more expensive.
> 
> ...



Wow so basically pay $200 more because they wanted to discontinue a feature. No thanks I will be returning.


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## MikeinNJ (May 9, 2007)

Wow, that's a crappy thing to do. Glad I did this when I did. But still, doesn't make sense to REMOVE a feature. "The physical technology exists in this simple cheap box to start the car.... butttt we want you to spend another $100+, have to more than DOUBLE the amount of wiring connections (and thus amount of possible failure points) and still have to walk around with an extra fob on your keys"... bunch of crap. 

If I were a dealer I would talk directly to their engineering team in Canada to get them to allow me to flash an older version with 3x lock start. I worked directly with those guys last year in helping them fix the bugs in the VW firmware. I also told them how bad their website is with the fake captcha that doesn't actually work and is just a static jpeg, lol. 

I still use the app to remote start, and since I moved, I only use the app since I'm further away from my car now when I'm home.


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## lowpassat (Jul 15, 2008)

Trust me, when we had the meeting with them, we ALL insisted they keep the function as it was a very good selling item with this.

They didn't want to keep it and told us they were lossing money over conventionnal remote starters.

On the other hands, there is some other solution, like fortin bypass but still more expensive than the dball2


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## Andhop72 (Dec 3, 2012)

Either way they lost my business. I could care less why they discontinued it.


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## ipostic (Apr 17, 2010)

*Just installed SmartStart on my CC*

Hey guys, I just got SmartSmart installed on my 2010 CC professionally. 

I have a few questions:

* Is there a way to make it remember that seat warmers should be on when I start my car remotely? The guys at the shop said no but I thought to check in case its a matter of some settings. 

* Battery usage. I'm able to ping my car and check the status at any time. It means that the module is connected to the cell network. Does it drain battery significantly being on all the time? 

Sorry for such noob questions but there is no better place to ask than vortex forums.


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## MikeinNJ (May 9, 2007)

ipostic said:


> Hey guys, I just got SmartSmart installed on my 2010 CC professionally.
> 
> I have a few questions:
> 
> ...


There's probably a way to use the aux triggers to turn on the heated seats. However, the electronics in these cars are VERY sensitive to outside voltage spikes and I would be very afraid of frying a module/CECM since the heated seats are registered through the navigation, digital display, etc. Best thing to do is do what I did: turn on heated seat memory with VCDS. In the colder months I just leave the heated seats on all the time and they stay on the last used setting all the time.

For battery usage, don't worry about it. Uses no more power than the usual security system or anything else drawing RAP (retained accessory power) like radios do for settings/presets.


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## ipostic (Apr 17, 2010)

MikeinNJ said:


> There's probably a way to use the aux triggers to turn on the heated seats. However, the electronics in these cars are VERY sensitive to outside voltage spikes and I would be very afraid of frying a module/CECM since the heated seats are registered through the navigation, digital display, etc. Best thing to do is do what I did: turn on heated seat memory with VCDS. In the colder months I just leave the heated seats on all the time and they stay on the last used setting all the time.
> 
> For battery usage, don't worry about it. Uses no more power than the usual security system or anything else drawing RAP (retained accessory power) like radios do for settings/presets.


Thanks for reply. The shop also mentioned that there is theoretical way to do it but they don't want to risk creating issues and can't guarantee their work. Oh well! At least I'm enjoying playing with my smartphone to start it, check status and get alerts based on weather.


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## DrummerVwCC2010 (Feb 28, 2014)

*I cant get my remote start to work!!*

I tries to turn the car over but makes a clicking sound as if the battery is dead, When i put my fob in while its attempting to start it starts right up.


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## DarthBajan (Oct 22, 2008)

If you used the parts in this DIY recently and flashed the DBALL/ DBALL2 with the new firmware, the 3x lock feature no longer works. The website constantly gives a warning that it's no longer supported. You'll need a separate keyfob or smart start to control it from your phone.


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## jigubhai2001 (Oct 23, 2012)

munnarg said:


> If you used the parts in this DIY recently and flashed the DBALL/ DBALL2 with the new firmware, the 3x lock feature no longer works. The website constantly gives a warning that it's no longer supported. You'll need a separate keyfob or smart start to control it from your phone.


Munnarg, is there a way to get the older version of firmware that supports the 3x lock feature. In my case I am looking at buying 4 sets (1 for 10 cc, 1 for 14 Jetta and 2 for 14 Passat) and also getting the USB firmware load cable..... It sucks because i was waiting for thanksgivig/christmas to buy these and now this change from them


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## DarthBajan (Oct 22, 2008)

Honestly I don't know. You might have to email them to request it. The most convenient way to flash is using IE but right now they only have the last two firmware versions on there.


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## jigubhai2001 (Oct 23, 2012)

munnarg said:


> Honestly I don't know. You might have to email them to request it. The most convenient way to flash is using IE but right now they only have the last two firmware versions on there.


I will try contacting them later today. One more question I have is that if I get the latest firnware and the dball2 module only, then how can I still use the remote start. Can I just use my smartphone and if so do I need any additional modules/device to get this done.


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## DarthBajan (Oct 22, 2008)

jigubhai2001 said:


> I will try contacting them later today. One more question I have is that if I get the latest firnware and the dball2 module only, then how can I still use the remote start. Can I just use my smartphone and if so do I need any additional modules/device to get this done.


Smart start module in the OP or compatible Directed key fob.


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## jigubhai2001 (Oct 23, 2012)

munnarg said:


> Smart start module in the OP or compatible Directed key fob.


On got it.... So it looks like regardless of the option I choose it would still be around $200 per car....


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## MikeinNJ (May 9, 2007)

jigubhai2001 said:


> On got it.... So it looks like regardless of the option I choose it would still be around $200 per car....


Ebay for refurbs. I got one for about $50 on ebay for a friend's Jetta. I think it was the Viper 5101.


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## jigubhai2001 (Oct 23, 2012)

MikeinNJ said:


> Ebay for refurbs. I got one for about $50 on ebay for a friend's Jetta. I think it was the Viper 5101.


So I could install a DBALL or DBALL2 with the latest firmware and also the Viper 5101 kit and it will allow me to use the 3X OEM RSR feature? or get RSR using a smart phone?


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## MikeinNJ (May 9, 2007)

jigubhai2001 said:


> So I could install a DBALL or DBALL2 with the latest firmware and also the Viper 5101 kit and it will allow me to use the 3X OEM RSR feature? or get RSR using a smart phone?


There is no way to get the 3x Lock Start feature without going to one of the latest Viper Digital units. I have not looked at them yet to see if they require the DBALL (I think the bypass module is built right in on the new ones) but I also don't know what the prices are on those right now. Basically if you buy the DBALL + 5101, you can start only with the 5101 separate fob. You also do the DBALL + SmartStart and start only with the app. Or do a 5101 AND a SmartStart and start from app + separate keyfob.


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## MikeinNJ (May 9, 2007)

Also, 

Looks like the DBALL2*PRO* model still supports 3x Lock Start feature according to the compatibility list on xpresskit.com when you put in your CC to the make/model dropdowns.. You can see that the DBALL/DBALL 2 do not have that option bubble checked.

As for the 4x10, this is a brand new unit, includes a bypass and doesn't require a separate DBALL1/2 unit and I can only see it in stock at Crutchfield so far for $200. It looks a LOT like a DBALL2... hmmm.. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-rOq2lmxKMZf/p_6074X10/Directed-XpressStart-4X10.html

I'd say go for a DBALL2Pro off ebay for like $70-80. Might want to double check with Directed tech support to confirm, but all the notices about the 3x Lock Start removal specifically mention the DBALL1/2, not the Pro.


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## lowpassat (Jul 15, 2008)

for canadian folks, we are launching soon a similar system to the smartstart but NO, i repeat, NO annual fees!!! :laugh:

you pay your system once and that's it!

it works on the rogers network

should be released soon (2 weeks)

if you need one, let me know, i'll refer you to one of our customer that installs them in your area :thumbup:


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## MikeinNJ (May 9, 2007)

lowpassat said:


> for canadian folks, we are launching soon a similar system to the smartstart but NO, i repeat, NO annual fees!!! :laugh:
> 
> you pay your system once and that's it!
> 
> ...


You work for DEI? I've talked with the dev team up in Canada. I think I worked with Jean.


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## lowpassat (Jul 15, 2008)

MikeinNJ said:


> You work for DEI? I've talked with the dev team up in Canada. I think I worked with Jean.


We work with DEI. I'm a rep for a distribution company.


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## JaxACR (Dec 6, 2007)

Thanks Mike for the write up. I'm installing a Compustar remote start in a 2012 CC, and although the install is a bit different your pics were a big help!

Anyone happen to know where I can access the clutch wire on a manual trans CC? It appears that the clutch switch is on the engine bay side of the firewall, but I'm willing to bet it connects at the VESCM inside the cabin. Just not sure which plug and wire. Also if anyone knows which wire to interrupt to bypass autolights that would be a huge help!

Thanks :thumbup:


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## JaxACR (Dec 6, 2007)

Well I got the clutch bypass sorted out. In case it helps someone in the future, you have to tap two wires at the harness that plugs into the clutch position switch. It's tucked up against the firewall very close to the driver side, behind the battery. There are two wire bundles that run up into the cowl to the ECU, you can follow them down and you'll see a small bundle that splits off to the clutch switch. Tap a wire into pin 2 and another into pin 4 of the five pin plug, then diode isolate the two wires and connect them both to the status/ground when running wire from the remote start.

Now for a question: Those of you running the DBALL/SmartStart setup, if you leave your headlamp switch in the 'auto' setting and remote start when it is dark out, do your headlamps come on? Is the remote start able to control your parking lights? I see that the instructions in the first post say you don't need to connect the hazard wire, so I'm curious if the DBALL controls the parking lights and/or headlamps over CAN, and if so how do they behave. I would rather not go to the hazard wire, as I don't want the parking lights to flash while remote started (I prefer they stay on steady.) But more importantly, I want to be able to interrupt the auto lights while remote started so the car isn't sitting with the headlamps on, potentially shining into a house/restaurant/business/etc. I want to be able to leave the switch in the 'auto' position though. I've seen a few diagrams that say to use a relay to interrupt the 12v wire at the headlamp switch, and to run the parking light (+) from the remote start to the white/black wire (referred to as the parking light wire) but that isn't working. The relay clicks, but the parking lights don't come on and the auto headlamps remain on. Any difference in behavior with the DBALL?


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## MikeinNJ (May 9, 2007)

JaxACR said:


> Well I got the clutch bypass sorted out. In case it helps someone in the future, you have to tap two wires at the harness that plugs into the clutch position switch. It's tucked up against the firewall very close to the driver side, behind the battery. There are two wire bundles that run up into the cowl to the ECU, you can follow them down and you'll see a small bundle that splits off to the clutch switch. Tap a wire into pin 2 and another into pin 4 of the five pin plug, then diode isolate the two wires and connect them both to the status/ground when running wire from the remote start.
> 
> Now for a question: Those of you running the DBALL/SmartStart setup, if you leave your headlamp switch in the 'auto' setting and remote start when it is dark out, do your headlamps come on? Is the remote start able to control your parking lights? I see that the instructions in the first post say you don't need to connect the hazard wire, so I'm curious if the DBALL controls the parking lights and/or headlamps over CAN, and if so how do they behave. I would rather not go to the hazard wire, as I don't want the parking lights to flash while remote started (I prefer they stay on steady.) But more importantly, I want to be able to interrupt the auto lights while remote started so the car isn't sitting with the headlamps on, potentially shining into a house/restaurant/business/etc. I want to be able to leave the switch in the 'auto' position though. I've seen a few diagrams that say to use a relay to interrupt the 12v wire at the headlamp switch, and to run the parking light (+) from the remote start to the white/black wire (referred to as the parking light wire) but that isn't working. The relay clicks, but the parking lights don't come on and the auto headlamps remain on. Any difference in behavior with the DBALL?


Remote starting is no different to the electronics of the car than starting it normally with the key. So headlights in the auto position will work the same as when starting with the key. I wouldn't mess with putting any 12v wires from the DBALL feeding into the headlight switch. The hazard wire is only needed for flashing the hazards to indicate that its been remote started. This has also been changed to an optional feature in the firmware programming step. You can now have it so it will no longer blink while being remote started. It is also good to have the hazards hooked up in case there is ever an issue with the remote start install since the DBALL uses the hazard flashes as a diagnostic indicator (e.g. 7x flashes = safety switch shutoff, 3x flashes = CAN issue, etc)


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## JaxACR (Dec 6, 2007)

Thanks Mike. So if I'm understanding correctly, without the hazard wire connected your parking lamps don't come on during RS or for diagnostic codes, correct? Just wanted to clarify whether they worked over CAN with the DBALL. I would like to have them hooked up, and the Compustar allows the option of flashing them or solid on while remote started, but I have to find a wire to activate the parking lights. I've got the wiring info for the 2012 non-CC Passat, but there are a few differences and this is one of them. I did try the hazard wire, but it's not a constant on or off signal- pulsing it to ground activates the hazards and pulsing it again deactivates them (just like pressing the switch in the dash.) Unfortunately that means it won't work for the diagnostic codes, as the RS is going to pulse it for each light flash. I'm going to have to do some poking around with a meter at the light switch harness, one of the wires should control the parking lamps since the Euro switch has a parking lamp position. Hopefully while I'm there I can find the wire for the auto light position as well, and use a relay to interrupt it with the GWR/status output.


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## MikeinNJ (May 9, 2007)

JaxACR said:


> Thanks Mike. So if I'm understanding correctly, without the hazard wire connected your parking lamps don't come on during RS or for diagnostic codes, correct? Just wanted to clarify whether they worked over CAN with the DBALL. I would like to have them hooked up, and the Compustar allows the option of flashing them or solid on while remote started, but I have to find a wire to activate the parking lights. I've got the wiring info for the 2012 non-CC Passat, but there are a few differences and this is one of them. I did try the hazard wire, but it's not a constant on or off signal- pulsing it to ground activates the hazards and pulsing it again deactivates them (just like pressing the switch in the dash.) Unfortunately that means it won't work for the diagnostic codes, as the RS is going to pulse it for each light flash. I'm going to have to do some poking around with a meter at the light switch harness, one of the wires should control the parking lamps since the Euro switch has a parking lamp position. Hopefully while I'm there I can find the wire for the auto light position as well, and use a relay to interrupt it with the GWR/status output.


https://www.directechs.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?d=9588&p=468&f=10483

Hazards *should* work over CAN in these cars. Passats from 2012 onward are American made and are going to be quite different. For a 2012 CC, the hazard wire is in the brown CECM connector, pin 7, brown and red wire. Refer to install type 6 on that guide I just linked. If you go to Directechs.com and make a free login, you can get all the install guides/master sheets that give you the entire wiring layout of the car. I don't think I wired up the hazards for my car, all done through CAN. I have had to wire them for 2006-2010 Jettas though.


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## Acampbell128 (Sep 10, 2013)

Is this going to be similar or the same to the installation of a 4x10?


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

I just completed a self install of a DBALL2PRO in my 2011 CC. Same as the 4x10/5x10 series. It was a pain since I had to combine elements form the pre 2011 diagrams with the normal 2011-UP diagram. My car was like a 1/2 hybrid between the years.

However it works well and the range is incredible compared to he factory remote. PM me if you need help with installing one of these in your car.


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## Vettes Volvos and VWs (Mar 6, 2006)

Subed for later! Unreal!!! Definitely need to do this.


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## Acampbell128 (Sep 10, 2013)

I installed the Directed 4x10 which seems almost identical. I didn't need the RfLub for install, I also bought an xkloader2 which i didn't use either as mine came pre-programmed. My install was a little different as i did not have the same canbus harness as shown in the OP.


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## cube4da99 (Mar 25, 2006)

*wire colors*

does anyone have the wire colors for the install trying to do my car and not having any good luck need the immobilizer 2 so when the car starts it sends the signal to the key reader i see the pick but can no make out the color inn the pic


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## 2013VWCC (Sep 2, 2015)

Just checked the xpresskit website and it show the 3x Lock Start feature as a option on the Dball2. Has anyone else done the install and had it work with the OEM remote?


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## moahman (Jan 1, 2015)

*Immobilizer active!*

I just did the install with the dball2 on the latest firmware with rsr and I keep getting "immobilizer active!" right when i do 3x lock. I triple checked my wiring and made sure the immobilizer pill wire thing works and i have no idea whats wrong. At first it was working and started my car but all of a sudden it goes straight to this. Does anyone know why?


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## raveendran (Sep 17, 2015)

Sounds like a bad DBALL2. Mine worked perfectly when I initially installed it but after closing everything up, I got the same message as you. After spending hours trouble shooting and checking the voltage on each wire, I found out that there was no output on ignition and start wire following the 3x press. Replaced the DBALL2 and the car started just fine. I must have done something when I was wrapping up the wires to kill DBALL2.


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## CanadianNorth (Aug 15, 2012)

Hi folks,

Can anyone tell me where the clutch switch is? Trying to install a 4x10 in a cc...


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## DarthBajan (Oct 22, 2008)

CanadianNorth said:


> Hi folks,
> 
> Can anyone tell me where the clutch switch is? Trying to install a 4x10 in a cc...


You can find the instruction manual for your car here.
https://www.directechs.com/


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## CanadianNorth (Aug 15, 2012)

Thanks,

The install is complete. The clutch switch is in the engine bay behind the battery


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## jigubhai2001 (Oct 23, 2012)

MikeinNJ said:


> *Step 4: Installing the Immobilizer Loop*
> 
> For this part you can use the Xpresskit Universal RFLUB Antenna, which requires gluing the RFLUB’s inline resistor to the little immobilizer chip inside of the keyfob (requires opening up the keyfob). Carefully pry the pill out out of the keyfob, glue it to the resistor, and heatshrink it. The immobilizer pill slot will be similar to this:
> 
> ...


I installed my dball2 module today and everything works fine. In the OEM CC key it looks like internal componentants are sealed so I was trying to pry the immobilizer chip out of the CC key and broke th3 chip. 

I am thinking of just getting a Jetta/Pasat flip key because it looks like it is a lot easier to remove the immobilizer pill from it. I am planning to install that chip into my CC key and have the dealer program it. However I am not sure if the jetta/passat transponder chip can be programmed in the cc. In the picture you show a flip key. How did you get the flip key programmed?

Just playing around what I also noticed that with one key with immobilizer chip installed on the RFLUB harness and no chip in the other key I was able to start the key with both 3x remote start and also through the ignition switch. I was able to drive the car as well. I was nervous driving it though because I was not sure if the car would stop with no chip in the key that was in the ignition. This makes me wonder if the key is the ignition would even need a chip in the key with this remote start setup.


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## DarthBajan (Oct 22, 2008)

You should have just followed my post and taped the rflub to the key. It works just the same without issue. I recently removed my remote starter as it was blocking my APR tuner from being able to recognize and flash my ECU.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6888303-VW-CC-Remote-Start-SmartStart-Installation-Guide&p=86081358&viewfull=1#post86081358


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## no1tmorrow (Feb 2, 2015)

*Where to wrap put the Antenna Loop*

"Then, run the end of the antenna with the loop on it up to the ignition cylinder hole to the empty space that the keyring bezel normally covers."

What does this mean? I have a premade loop from a 556U immobilizer. I pulled the piece out and don't see where to place the loop?

Thanks for any help
2013CC PTS

Thom


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## no1tmorrow (Feb 2, 2015)

no1tmorrow said:


> "Then, run the end of the antenna with the loop on it up to the ignition cylinder hole to the empty space that the keyring bezel normally covers."
> 
> What does this mean? I have a premade loop from a 556U immobilizer. I pulled the piece out and don't see where to place the loop?
> 
> ...



Bump on the above...


Also how in the heck did you all get under your dash? I tried to hook up my wires and after 45 minutes I gave up. I could only get one arm that far up under the dash. Tough to splice with one arm. I'm 6ft, 225lb but dang. So basically I know how to take apart the dash and put it back together so far, so when I figure out where the antenna loop goes as well how to get under the dash (may be spring at this point), I will get it knocked out.


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## usaf-lt-g (May 16, 2012)

Soo.... I'm actually a bit confused..... other than "remote start" being an added capability here... can someone explain to me what the difference is between:

Remote Start and "SmartStart" ?

Is this like a KESSY solution? By KESSY, I mean.... is this some kind of ability to drive down the road with my key in the pocket, or is this purely to add-on "remote start?"

Probably to everyone's shock..... there is actually a "VW module" in Europe that the police install (the police have CC's in germany) that does this same thing, with literally an add-on. Actually it's pretty cool.... you can be driving down the road, park in a gas station, and it will allow you to pull the key out of the ignition while it's still running.


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## MikeinNJ (May 9, 2007)

no1tmorrow said:


> "Then, run the end of the antenna with the loop on it up to the ignition cylinder hole to the empty space that the keyring bezel normally covers."
> 
> What does this mean? I have a premade loop from a 556U immobilizer. I pulled the piece out and don't see where to place the loop?
> 
> ...


Hey, sorry for the late response. You want to pull the black keyfob bezel out, run the antenna around the outer clips of it and reinsert the whole bezel back into the dashboard.

In the following picture, the antenna is the green/blue wire I hacked together before getting the Directed RF-LUB antenna part. Both solutions worked fine for me, just wanted to have the official antenna. 










As for where the DBALL box should go, I have mine concealed under the dash panel that is beneath the keyfob receiver. You can access this pocket from under the dash once you remove the footwell cover panel. It may be a bit easier to just remove the whole dash panel that runs under the steering column.



usaf-lt-g said:


> Soo.... I'm actually a bit confused..... other than "remote start" being an added capability here... can someone explain to me what the difference is between:
> 
> Remote Start and "SmartStart" ?
> 
> ...



The "remote start" portion just adds the ability to remotely start the car using the stock keyfob. (Press the lock button 3x to start/stop the engine)

The "SmartStart" addon will give you the ability to remotely start and stop the engine from anywhere using your smartphone. In addition to remote start, the app allows you to lock/unlock doors, pop the trunk (it confirms before sending the command), panic button and check the current status of the door locks, hood, trunk, starter and engine. Also, you can remotely control any relays and security systems that you may have integrated with the system. It's great for when you are on vacation and want to double check that you have locked your doors. Also great if you want to remote start from far away such as inside an office building, airport parking lot, etc. There's also a GPS enabled module available that does all that plus speed and location monitoring. The service also includes Autoclub which gives you free tow/roadside assistance.

Unfortunately, there are no KESSY capabilities added here.


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