# Auto Clean Valve Body DIY



## royer25 (Dec 7, 2007)

The write-ups on this site have always been extremely helpful for me. I have saved countless amounts of money in mechanic bills by 
doing all the work on my car myself. Without the information on this site, everything would not have gone nearly as smoothly or I wouldn’t 
have even attempted some of the stuff I’ve done.
So I want to give a little back.
Transmission code – CFF- 096 with a VR6 motor.
I was having some shift problems with my auto transmission plus I had over torque my filter bolts and stripped out the bolt holes, 
causing my filter to fall off in the pan.







So I decided to clean my valve body while I had it out to repair it. Turns out there 
isn’t a whole lot to it.

*Tips on removing valve body from transmission.*

T-30 is the size you need to get the bolts out that hold the Valve body to the transmission.
I removed the plugs from the solenoids using a knife and gently prying them out. They are really brittle and will defiantly break and 
crumble a little. Just be as careful as possible when removing them. All of my plugs broke when I removed mine, when I re-installed it, I 
had to get some silicone and put on the side of the plug before plugging it into the solenoid. *Then I put the pan back on and let 
the silicone dry for 24 hours before putting fluid back in. Make sure to let it dry or the silicone will just wash off when you put your trans 
fluid in and the solenoids may come unplugged. Also, make sure the silicone you use mentions transmission pan on the back of the 
package, or it may desintigrate on you.*
You can disassemble the whole thing with a T-20.
First remove the two screws on the filter side
















There is a small ball bearing in it you need to watch out for, I think there may be a small washer too, I can’t remember. As you can see, 
the one on this valve body is missing, but this is just a spare.








Now clean up everything using carb cleaner, parts cleaner, or brake cleaner. They should all work about the same. There will be a lot of 
build up, I used q-tips to get into those crevices, just remember to be sure everything is clean - clean.
Next, I removed the solenoids to clean them, there are small parts underneath the solenoids so careful when removing them not to lose 
them.








This picture below is a little blurry. That slot is the only one that has this little tab in it. Mine fell out on the table and I had a hell of a 
time trying to figure out which slot it goes into. With the right amount of cursing, and disassembling my other valve body, I found out where 
it went. Those pins go in the the order shown. The pic shown is with the valve body laying filter side up. Clean them up real good, and 
spray some cleaner in the holes. Remember clean clean clean.








Now clean out the solenoids, I just put the straw on the parts cleaner bottle in the hole in the end and sprayed it. Then lightly taped the 
solenoid on a plastic surface and repeated until black stuff stopped coming out. One of my solenoids were real dirty so I used one from 
the other valve body, but you might not have the luxury of spare parts. Do the same to the other two solenoids on the side, they don’t 
have anything under them to fall out.








Now turn it over and remove the two screws on the back side.















There is 3 steel balls on this side, and two washers.








The two big ones go in the red circles and have the washers over them, and the small one goes in the blue circle. 








Clean it all up real nice, take your time, and lay everything out and let it air dry really good before putting it all back together. 
There is a few parts on the valve body that don’t need to be touched, like these things.








I don't know what those parts are for, but I'm almost sure that if you adjust those without knowing what your doing, you may mess up the 
way your trans shifts. And it might be really hard to fix. So don't be tempted to take those pieces out. If anyone has anymore info on 
those parts, feel free to post it below.








Also while you have the valve body out, check out this line pressure mod. I did it on mine and it turned out to be great.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=62154
And don't turn the adjustment backwards, I did on this spare valve body and as you can see in the pics, i broke the tabs 
off.


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## rensho (Jan 21, 2002)

*Re: Auto Clean Valve Body DIY (royer25)*

How is the tranny working now that you've gone through all that trouble? What were the symptons prior to the cleaning, and how have they changed? Thanks for taking the time to post this.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

*Re: Auto Clean Valve Body DIY (rensho)*

Very nice How to! This should be in the FAQ.


_Modified by CoolAirVw at 9:58 PM 5-15-2009_


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## VW uber alles (Sep 21, 2003)

*Re: Auto Clean Valve Body DIY (royer25)*

WOW.This is very helpful.
Thanks. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## rinux1 (Apr 15, 2009)

*Re: Auto Clean Valve Body DIY (royer25)*

i have a golf 97, but i have all gears gonne, without the tmc (transmission control module) i get 1 and 3, and reverse, i read post for internal harness and i found this tread, since i have nothing to lose, i will do everything you post, clean valve body, and the pressure line, i found in the harness the transmission temperature sensor out of spec ( 280 ohms) so i going to change the harness as well and see if this helps or not, thank you again for your helpfull post


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## Peter Badore (Jun 17, 2002)

*Re: Auto Clean Valve Body DIY (royer25)*

Did you record the fault codes before cleaning the 096 valve body? 
And of course thank you for posting the photos and procedure--very helpful
to someone that normally does own nor work on automatic transmission cars.


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## rinux1 (Apr 15, 2009)

*Re: Auto Clean Valve Body DIY (royer25)*

i clean the valve body of my golf 97, 2.0 aba, aut, clk transmission and there is a little different in the last selenoide but i think is ok, there is 3 pz here is the picture, a little blurry but mmm... ok i did try several time to post the picture but don't know why i can't do it; so here is the link
IMG]http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa171/jesusctorres/04242009358.jpg[/IMG]
_Modified by rinux1 at 8:42 PM 4-24-2009_

_Modified by rinux1 at 8:44 PM 4-24-2009_
















_Modified by rinux1 at 8:46 PM 4-24-2009_


_Modified by rinux1 at 8:47 PM 4-24-2009_


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## Fantomasz (Aug 15, 2001)

*Re: Auto Clean Valve Body DIY (rinux1)*


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## rinux1 (Apr 15, 2009)

well, i put the valve body back to the transmission, when i tried the transmission i notice non of the gears engage, this in not a new problem to me, i have been having problems with this before i clean the vb, the thing is, i disconnect the tcm and surprise!!!! nothing!!!!, i decide to check everything again and i found the gear selector inside the transmission out of the hook, put it back and now it works in limp mode, by the way i did the line pressure mod and shifts very good ( in limp mode 1 and 3, and reverse) the bad news is : something is put in the car in limp mode, i found this codes with the obd11 P1613 mil call up/ circuit short to b+, P0730 incorrect gear ratio, and P0440 evaporative emission system, if someone have any suggestion please post thank you and thanks to fantomasz for the picture


_Modified by rinux1 at 10:51 PM 4-26-2009_


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

*Re: (rinux1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rinux1* »_.....................and now it works in limp mode, by the way i did the line pressure mod and shifts very good ( in limp mode 1 and 3, and reverse) 

1st 3rd and reverse is not limp mode. Does your trans take off in 1st, never shift to 2nd, then shift to 3rd, but never shift to 4th?
If so you have no 2nd and 4th....
Solenoid EV2 (N89) comes on in 2nd and 4th to apply the B2 clutch. N89 may be stuck mechanically or shorted or open electrically. If its shorted or open it would have a solenoid code if you scanned the TCM with vag-com. If its stuck mechanically then you can scope the amp draw with a inductive amp clamp and look for the variance in the ramp, indicating the pintle has moved. For those without a scope or inductive amp clamp the only check you can make is to swap it with another another solenoid. You dont have to buy one. Just trade the n89 for ev5 (n92). ev5 is for pressure control during shifts. If your 2nd and 4th then work but shifts are harsh or soft, then you know the solenoid is sticking. Unfortunatly if the n91 and the n89 are both bad then your test is useless, so maybe you should just try a new n89. Unfortunatly you could also have a problem with the b2 clutch which makes 2nd and 4th. If the solenoid doesn't fix your problem then by default its a problem with the clutch and your looking at rebuild. 
I have had this problem before and done this exact process to fix it. I scoped it, then swapped the two solenoids, then put in a new solenoid to fix the car.
Good luck.



_Modified by CoolAirVw at 6:47 PM 5-22-2009_


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## rinux1 (Apr 15, 2009)

*Re: (CoolAirVw)*

thanks for the explanation, when i disconnect the tmc is when shifts 1 and 3, sorry i put limp mode, and i think i got it , i did a pressure check and the solenoid n93 wasn't working, i going to change that one and post the results later thanks again CoolAirVw


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## rinux1 (Apr 15, 2009)

*Re: (CoolAirVw)*

well, i finally change the solenoid, but i have slips now, i think the tmc needs to relearn the process again, we'll see in another episode of the mystery of the m01 transmission


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## mysonsaysaudi (Nov 22, 2008)

*Re: (rinux1)*

Great thead gonna do this to my wifes passat and hopefully fix her problems. It slams in to 1st sometimes and doesn't like shifting to 4th. I got it to work great for about 3 days after I changed her speed sensor on the trans it's self but everything is fubar again. so this is my next step. again thanks.


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## Cadenza_7o (Jan 23, 2001)

*Re: Auto Clean Valve Body DIY (royer25)*

Excellent write-up... 
What are some of the symptoms that require a VB cleaning? 
And since the solenoids and wiring harness must be removed, shouldn't some diagnostics be done to see if they need replacement?


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## forumoto (Aug 12, 2008)

*Re: Auto Clean Valve Body DIY (Cadenza_7o)*

I want to know, if the solenoid in golf 3 auto trans, which has colour of light brown, are all the same spec, i use volt meter to check continuity of current and i found out that, the only two sensors which pimp sound is , the solenoid which has black socket edge, but the rest of the browish colour, none did not read or pimp sound when checked, does it means all those types has fault. 
Of recent, what is happening to my auto trans is, the ecm sees the car in gear therefore when i tried to start the car it wont with the key, so i have to go to the engine and start it from the starter. so always i am found of opening my hood/bonet to start the car and its really frustrating. I went to the market to buy trans, the dealer told me, because the parts in my 2.0 auto trans can be loaded into golf 4 auto trans, my golf 3 auto trans are expensive and have to pay 500 dollars for golf 3,.... 
please i want to know if someone can give me the idle what is happening, i have tested the multi-function tr cable which goes into the trans with my volt meter and it works well, so why this problem... Because of this i cant enjoy my car speed. 
Does anyone knows of a shop which sales used trans for cars..


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

*Re: Auto Clean Valve Body DIY (forumoto)*

Whats a pimp sound?
What year or better yet what trans?
You said "multifunction cable". If your car wont start you need to check your "multifunction switch".


_Modified by CoolAirVw at 11:39 AM 1-29-2010_


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## makim (Feb 7, 2010)

Royer how did you remove the harness and the solenoids without breaking the brackets/tabs?
you seem to be the only person here who might know this


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## steevz (Aug 25, 2009)

How do I remove a solenoid from the valve body?
I finally got my replacement shift solenoid and need to know the proper procedure to just pull one out, and put the new one in. Any help would be great, thanks.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

remove pan, carelully uplug it, remove torx bolts, pull out solenoid and reinstall new one.


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## vwheadz1 (Oct 26, 2008)

*Re: (CoolAirVw)*

Great write up! I was having problems with my 96 gti auto. High revving in between shifts and then no reverse, I jacked up the car and went thru the gears and it would go forward when i put it in reverse. Then it would lock up after about two revolutions. after checking the codes with a generir scanner codes P0302-P0730-P0753-P0172 came up. Two of which relates to the faulty shift solenoid and a failed trans solenoid. I've cleaned the vb like you did. I noticed the first solenoid plunger was stuck inside the shaft alittle but the rest freely moved up and down, after cleaning they all move ok now but I ripped the brittle connector harness so where do i order one from and what is the name of this harness? and lastly (whew!) can i check the ohms of each solenoid while they are out or do they have to be plugged back up and where would i get the ball bearing collar I think I lost one while taking things apart







Thanks for ALL your help you are GREATLY appreciated!







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

*Re: (vwheadz1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwheadz1* »_....... but I ripped the brittle connector harness so where do i order one from and what is the name of this harness? 
The peice you need is called a internal harness or ribbon strip. Dealer can get them or call a trans parts store. Theres a trans parts store in every major city.


vwheadz1 said:


> ....... and lastly (whew!) can i check the ohms of each solenoid while they are out or do they have to be plugged back up
> You can ohm check them with valvebody off, ohms checking isn't 100% definitive. It it checks good it can still be bad intermittantly.
> 
> 
> ...






vwheadz1 said:


> vwheadz1 said:
> 
> 
> > Are you sure yours had 2? Just cuz the pic above shows two it dont mean yours has 2. Later valve bodies only had 1.
> ...


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## zsimoneau (Aug 11, 2010)

*solenoids*

How do i know which solenoid is which. Kinda new to this


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

zsimoneau said:


> How do i know which solenoid is which. Kinda new to this


 http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...noid-location&highlight=solenoid+location+01m


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## Karl1 (Nov 30, 2011)

*Auto box shift problem*

thanks for brill site, 
I have an auto 2.0 mk3 with the 096 box, and all is well with the gear change when cold or for the first few gear changes
How ever as the car warms up the gear changes become more lumpy in change

I have changed the filter and oil three times now with no impovement

Also it has started a new problem and that is some times it dont want to change gear at all:banghead:
So I have to pull over and turn off the ignition and then all is well again but still lupmy in change
Do you think if I did the above clean out would this help
Thank you!


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## s.pavel6 (Dec 23, 2010)

Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but does cleaning a solenoid as described above really help? Is there a better procedure Or is that just a feel-good measure? I am debating cleaning first, testing, and ordering new solenoids if the cleaning does not help..


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## bjohns86 (Nov 7, 2011)

s.pavel6

I'm actually glad that you commented on this thread as it gives poor advice and misses items that will give you problems if they are not observed. The transmission Royer25 described is an 096 or variant for that era as the port that the filter bolts to is kidney shaped. The newer 01M has a circular port. I appreciate Royer25 posting this and attempting this endeavor but take his advice with caution. First off, don't, don't, don't put silicone anywhere inside the transmission, in fact, don't even use it on the pan. If you break the clips of the solenoid harness connections, replace the harness. Secondly, find a diagram of the VB and it's components so if something gets dropped or moved you know where it goes. He did mention a link that he provided about adjusting a valve. This link is also problematic as the poster on that site has no clue what he is adjusting and instead of approaching it systematically he seems to just say screw it in XX turns. This valve is the boost pressure regulator which varies the line pressure with load and gear selection and turning it in too much will cause firm to excessively firm shifts which can be problematic with this transmission. Long story short, don't follow this guys advice, instead get a VB diagram for your transmission as there is variety from the 096 to the 01M and from year to year. To answer your question, yes, there are much better procedures and cleaning the solenoids does not require you to remove the valves like seen above. The shift solenoids have one moving part, a steel ball which either exhausts fluid when the solenoid is not energized or closes the fluid circuit by being forced on a seat when the solenoid is energized. Unless you are having problems and you can attribute it to a solenoid, I wouldn't suggest cleaning the solenoids. Many times the solenoids get 'sludge" build up in the check ball area of the solenoid which causes poor sealing or poor exhausting. Cleaning this area will remove the sludge and allow proper function. However, sometimes the coil windings or the seat itself is bad and replacement of that solenoid is necessary. If you do buy solenoids, don't just buy the cheapest the Internet has to offer or you will be doing this again later. I am sorry to be long winded here but frankly I am bothered by the sketchy procedures that people recommend with transmissions. Let me know if need any more info. Good Luck!

Brad


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## cabrio00 (Jul 24, 2014)

royer25 said:


> This picture below is a little blurry. That slot is the only one that has this little tab in it. Mine fell out on the table and I had a hell of a
> time trying to figure out which slot it goes into. With the right amount of cursing, and disassembling my other valve body, I found out where
> it went. Those pins go in the the order shown. The pic shown is with the valve body laying filter side up. Clean them up real good, and
> spray some cleaner in the holes. Remember clean clean clean.


Thank you to OP for taking photos and keeping them up! I rebuilt my valve body tonight and had no idea where that rivet-looking came from or where it belonged. Your photos helped me out. Thank you!! :beer:


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