# The Official New Beetle/New Beetle Convertible D.I.Y./FAQ Thread



## The Ninja (Apr 2, 2001)

Please **ONLY** post the information you have and **NOT** debate it within the thread. If you do I'll delete the posts in order to save the thread.
If you have a question about something in the FAQ please post in the forums and DO NOT post it in the FAQ or it will be deleted.
Please make sure the "Append signature to this post" box is NOT checked before posting.
Have fun.


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## The Ninja (Apr 2, 2001)

*Re: The Official New Beetle/New Beetle Convertible D.I.Y./FAQ Thread (NBracer8)*

Here is a simple one to start off with. 
*Honda S2000 Antenna Installation* 
This will work for other masts, not only the S2K one.
1. Unscrew old mast from base.
2. screw new mast onto base mast, hand tight. Do not over tighten as you may strip the threads.
3. Enjoy your new look
It is really that simple. Took me less than five minutes. If you are worried about your new mast being stolen use LockTite to seal antenna onto mast. I didn't use this and still have my antenna. 
Here is a small picture of the S2K antenna on my car.


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## Mr TT (Jun 25, 2001)

*Re: The Official New Beetle/New Beetle Convertible D.I.Y./FAQ Thread (NBracer8)*

Good to see a sticky topic. I started a thread of this nature last week - here are my highlights:
*Common knowledge* - TDI midpipe nicely replaces the beetle midmuffler for a cheap performance upgrade. Hit the dealer, get the pipe have it installed. Voila. Exhaust work is cheap and dirty, don't bother doing it yourself.
*Vented wheel liner vent* - _submitted by blubuga_ "pick up a wheel liner for a Turbo S, they have a vent built in. A couple of years ago before there was a production model you could swap people were grafting in the vent cut from an Audi liner" for a step-by step visit: http://turbobeetle.topcities.com/tech/vent/index.htm








_GT Touring Bubble added_ - "S liner, around $36 ... just go to the parts guy and check on a front passenger fender liner for your bug. Say you have a S. The part #'s are right next to each other, you want the one w/ "Sport" beside it. I put mine in a few weeks back, no big difference, just a little less heatsoak drain when the engine is hot. A good mod to build for the future"
*Downpipe* - _Jay Childress_ informed us that the GTI downpipe will fit the New Beetle perfectly. Sweet business Jay! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
*Chip* - _ASurroca_ "whatever you plan on doing, chiptuning should always be Step #1" Agreed. The most HP for the $ is chipping your 1.8T.
How to remove the ECU - http://turbobeetle.topcities.com/tech/ecu/index.htm send to chip vendor of choice. Repeat steps in reverse.
General chip info to consider is that you'll want to be sure that there are no mechanical troubles with the car beforehand - chipping will only aggrevate the issue. Most people suggest switching to a quality synthetic oil when chipping ( if you haven't already ) - turbo temps will be higher and there is a greater risk of cooking. Most chiptuners require the use of a 4bar fuel pressure regulator... bottom of this PDF- http://goapr.com/VW/support/ecu_beetle.pdf then, also you'll need to upgrade your diverter valve - http://turbobeetle.topcities.com/tech/forge/install.htm
*Best New Beetle DIY link* I've come across yet - http://turbobeetle.topcities.com/ Go there, enjoy.


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## lenswerks (Nov 6, 2002)

*Re: The Official New Beetle/New Beetle Convertible D.I.Y./FAQ Thread (Plucker)*

Boost gauge plumbing photo: Pick up Sunpro nylon tubing kit - Kit contains brass 1/4 inch NPT x compression fitting for gauge. Pick up 1/8 inch vacuum plastic tee vacu-tite part number 47325, vacu-tite vacuum connector part number 47400 and some cable ties. Cut hose indicated in drawing. Insert ends of plastic tee in cut vaccum line. Insert tee's outlet inside larger vacuum connector end. Insert nylon tubing inside smaller vacuum connector end. Secure with cable ties. From engine bay, push rubber gromet into driver area. Remove panel under dash and find rubber gromet. Use 1/8 inch punch to put hole in center of gromet. Get a leather punch kit - Very useful for punching holes in gromets. Run nylon tubing in gromet hole and place back in firewall hole from engine bay.


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## Mr TT (Jun 25, 2001)

*BACK FROM THE DEAD - IT'S THE FAQ BEETLE THREAD!!*

*EDIT: Very important. Allow the vehicle to cool overnight (8h?) or more before trying this. It's the difference between spilling not one single drop of coolant.. and having your face cooked by a spray of steaming toxic stuff. Be smart and let it get nice and cold.*
It came to my attention a while back that VW has been using faulty coolant temperature sensors in it's 1.8T cars. Easy and cheap fix though. Some say that their 2003 cars HAVE the new and improved version, others.. not.
Follow this thread to see pics of what the good one and bad one will look like. For those of you who don't know where to look - it's in between the airbox and your engine, halfway from the bumper to the firewall, about a foot lower than the airbox. Look at the pics in the thread.. it's an easy one.
*New Beetle method*
Parts required:
Revised "Green" coolant sensor P.N. 059 919 501A
O-Ring seal is P.N. N 903 168 02
Resin Retaining Clip is P.N. 032 121 142
Tools required:
10mm socket and extension
flathead screwdriver ( small )
papertowel
Steps:







Remove engine cover. 2 10mm nuts and slide towards the passenger side of the bay.







Remove this pipe from the airbox for clearance.















Use flat screwdriver to dislodge the c-clip holding the sensor.







Pull the sensor.







Use flat screwdriver to dislodge the original o-ring.







Inspect for dust and corrosion floating on the surface of the coolant. Wrap your index finger in paper towel and poke it in there to get the dust out. While you are at it - clean the cup.







Place new sensor in the same orientation as the original. No it doesn't matter, but it means you won't have to twist the wiring harness to plug it back in.







Use the flat screwdriver to lift the tab inside the plug, to free the plug from the sensor. There is a square hole on the side of it, look in the hole. There is your tab. Lift and slide it off.







Inspect for corrosion







Push onto new sensor till it makes a quiet click







Plug the hose back into the airbox







Replace engine cover







Check for tools laying about the engine bay







Start car and note the smoother, quieter idle. Other improvements have also been noted - do a search on vwvortex to read all about it. For the price ($8 canadian) - it's well worth it.
Let's keep this thing going!


_Modified by Plucker at 2:14 PM 6-14-2003_


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## Mr TT (Jun 25, 2001)

*Re: BACK FROM THE DEAD - IT'S THE FAQ BEETLE THREAD!! (Plucker)*

Ok. Here's another one I did... *Ghetto bugmod intake*
Background: I did something similar with my previous car.. was going to simply buy the bugmod kit, but decided to diy and save the $ for something better.. like a new MAF sensor. These parts cost me nothing, but may cost you $10-$20.. plus the K&N, which you may already have. I like the bugmod design - except the opening. A hole in your signal light is unattractive, makes your car look more "modified" and I don't want any questions from the safety inspetors. The inlet hole on the bugmod kit is also small - mine uses a less restrictive 5" opening. You can not see it without putting the car on a lift - and then it's still not too flashy. My tube is orange (motorsport brake ducting ), but you can get it in clear and black too for that OEM look. Anyhow - that's the why. Here's the "how".
Parts required:
4ft. aeroduct aka donkeydick (aircraft quality).. or go get some of this.
You want 3" diameter, and you want to make sure that it's for a CENTRAL VAC system.. NOT a dryer hose. The central vac tube is made to withstand (duh) negative pressures and will not collapse under these pressures.
You want a 5" - 3" reducer fitting. You should be able to get this reducer at the same supply store as above.
K&N panel filter kit
Various zip ties
Tools required:
Trunk kit ( jack, etc )
Socket set ( LONG extensions, like 14" long )
Knife
Pliars (sp?)
Torx screwdriver #20 & #25
Med Vice Grips (for intake pipe clamp)
Masking tape
Method:







With your hood open, jack up your car on the drivers side







Remove the wheel







Remove the wheelwell liner ( same as the mod in an earlier post, I won't repeat )







Unplug your MAF sensor, remove all plumbing from the airbox. Remove the airbox.. it's obvious how it's done so I won't bother typing that part. Place a rag in the opening of the intake pipe.. you don't want tools or debris going down there, do you? This one saved me that day cause my friend lost grip on a socket and tossed a bolt in that direction. It landed in a fold of the rag. It's a huge pain in the ass to get junk out of there. Be careful ok?







Remove the battery (it's a bonus cause it'll give you more space to work - and also reset your ecu







Now.. remove your snowbox, as per the instructions that are found in the link in an earlier post. It's easy.. couple bolts and a few twists - and it's out. You'll have an easier time if someone is on the top side holding the pipe still. It'll be more obvious what I mean when you're doing it.







Remove the pipe that joins the snowbox to the airbox. There is one sneaky bolt holding it in place. It's down low, near the back of the headlight. Toss on an extension and give'er. This one is a little tricky to slide out - but you will NOT need to remove the headlight.







You are now half done. Pat yourself on the back.







Take your tubing and partially flatten it with your foot. You don't want to crush it - but you do want to make it roughly the same shape as was the original airbox inlet pipe.. also it'll giveyou more clearance to get behind the headlight. This is easier if you have a friend feeding it down from the top. Snake it through - keep in mind that the more you can feed through - the better it will help keep the tube in it's circular form. You want to keep the "crushed" end on the TOP side ( duh ). The only area where it's tricky is behind the headlight.. make sure it's over towards the drivers side fender as much as possible and "turned" to face the airbox. You want enough so that there is plenty slack on the bottom end ( it can be trimmer later ) and 6-8 extra inches up top.







Now.. if you have your K&N kit handy.. use a little silicone grease on the airbox inlet grommet. Slide the crushed tube into the inlet (you could also "test fit" this earlier in the game). Pull it into the box (no sexual inuendo intended) and place the bottom half of the box into place, make sure you have clearance for re-installation.







Re-install the battery. It's a pain.. getting the winter jacket on right.. getting that clamp back on. I have no easy answers for this other than a little tab of tape wrapped around the nut before you put it in the socket ( you won't drop it that way, my dads trick ).







Bolt the airbox back in place.. you may have already taken this opportunity to wash it out while it's apart. I did.







Install the K&N. Don't forget the dust spray and silicone grease on the filter seal.







Take the rag out of your intake pipe. Put the box back together, make sure all the plumbing is properly seated and secured. Plug in the maf. Make sure you haven't left any tools laying around the engine bay. Close the hood (carefully, you're still on the crappy OEM scissor/suicide jack ).







You need to fasten the tube in place.. I mounted it to the 5" - 3" reducer and secured it with a zip tie to a bracket that is in this region. Now.. this is where you have to make your own judgement call. Do you want it facing forward or down? How high off the ground? For the record I placed mine right against the drivers side of the bumper cover, facing forward. It's not DIRECTLY facing the opening on the front of the bumper, but it will take on cold air just fine. I am not going to tell you where you want it, you decide. If you are unsure, mount it HIGHER and facing towards the bumper cover. Perhaps. I am not comfortable with giving this information out, obviously. Don't be dumb. Make sure it's REALLY secure. I punched a hole in the reducer and used my heaviest ziptie to secure it to a really stable bracket. It's not going ANYWHERE.







Now, put the fender liner back in place. Don't forget the hidden bolt. It's easier of you put them on finger tight at first, then tighten it later.. aligning it is a bit screwy.







Wheel back on... moderately tight. Lower jack. Torque to spec. Clean up your tools and wash up - you're done.








As with any home project when dealing with cars - there is a chance you can screw it up and cause damage. I am not responsible for your misadventures. These instructions are just an account of something I did.
Wow, that was a lot of typing - time to go for a drive.


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## J.Owen (May 31, 2001)

*Amber removal from Taillights*

*Tail light amber removal process* 
Here is the short and too the point version. When I have time I will look for anything that is missing but this is what most people have used and it works. Also, any other suggestions are appreciated.
1) Remove the black circular plastic covers along the back of your trunk on either side. Behind these covers you will find a big plastic nut that holds the tail lights in place. 

2) Remove the taillight by prying it out from the outside of the car. This can be done with a screwdriver covered with a towel. This is kinda tricky and if I remember it is easier to pry up the outside edge near the side of the car rather than the edge near the license plate recess. 

3) Once you have the taillight is out take a dremel tool or some other small cutting device and cut the lense off of the housing. You will see a line along the lense where the red plastic is heat welded to the grey housing. Try to cut as close to this line as possible. 

4) Once you get the lense off you will notice that the amber lense is actually completly seperate than the red/clear lense that you see from the outside. You should be able to just pop the amber lense out at this point. It make take some trimming, but should be fairly simple. 

5) After you have the amber out it is good to replace the lense back where it belongs on the housing and mark it off before you begin to glue it back together. This will help out to make sure nothing slides out of place. 

6) The easiest thing to use would be a 2 part epoxy such as JB Weld to glue it back together. When gluing it back together make sure that you do not leave any open holes along the seam. If water leaks into the lense it is a real pain to get out so it is best to try and prevent this from the beginning. 

7) The lense should take a couple hours to dry and if you dont need your car right away i would say to leave them out as long as possible just to make sure everything is dry. 

8) Reinstalling them is just the reverse if taking them out, it is a little more tricky but nothing too difficult.
9) Go buy amber 1157 bulbs from a auto shop since the bulb inside is clear and it will be extremely bright from behind.


Good luck and have fun with it.


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## arizonaluke2 (Apr 29, 2002)

*Re: Amber removal from Taillights (bugasm99)*

we need some updates guys!!


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## OLD GHOST (Mar 7, 2003)

*How-to: N75 "H" install*

Recently, I had my NB "chipped". In addition to the chip, I've read about swapping out your N75 valve... My stock valve was a "C". Rumor has it that the "H" is better for our APH engines. There is a "J" out there that is said to be smoother.
I purchased the "H" through vwparts.com for $65.00.








<hr noshade="noshade" />

** DO NOT DROP A VALVE !* They are very fragile.
*N75 installation:*
*Tools:* Pliers, screw driver, rag and coffee
*Time:* 15min at most
*Gain:* 10hp 1-3psi
** Best if engine is warm. Helps in removal of valve.*
Below are two shots showing the location of the N75 valve. As you can see it sits behind the MAF and to the right of the DV.
















<hr noshade="noshade" />
The valve is basically sitting in mid-air. Its held there by 3 hoses w/ clips and a sensor plug. First, I disconnected the MAF sensor plug. You will need the room. Next, disconnected the N75 plug. In the pic below you will need to squeeze the metal tabs and pull up/off the valve.








<hr noshade="noshade" />
This shot shows the over all area w/ MAF plug and N75 plug removed. Ive added a rag underneath everything just incase..








<hr noshade="noshade" />
Here is the tricky part. Just slow down and be gentle. I've read about people cracking the tubes... ECS Tuning has a disclaimer now on thiers.
Take your pliers, squeeze clips open and slide down hose. I also used a screw driver to aid in pushing hose off. Slowly work off all 3 hoses and the valve will come right out. Remember, this is your stock one so dont drop it.








Just do this in reverse to install your new N75 "H".
I took the dub for a spin around the 'hood and at first wasn't sure if it did a darn thing but today i spent a good while on the HWY and the NB felt more responsive and had a bit more go in the lower rpm's, a nice compliment to the GIAC chip. Just one more addition to my little sleeper







evil:
Quoted from ECS-Tuning
*The Power:* The N75 is the VW/Audi part identification number for the wastegate by-pass regulator valve. This valve is responsible for controlling the movement of the pneumatic actuator which drives the wastegate. The wastegate is an internal valve in the turbo-charger which controls the amount of exhaust gas that flows over the turbo impeller generating boost. Under normal operating conditions the engine's ECU sends signals to the N75 valve asking it to open or close which adds or reduces pressure on the wastegate actuator which results in more or less boost. The ECS RACE N75 valve modifies the normal operating parameters of the original N75 valve by delaying the speed at which these ECU signals are interpreted. The result is a higher initial peak boost and an elevated boost curve which tapers back to stock/chipped levels over the engines rev range. Average boost gains are 1-3psi over the rev band.
*The Positive Side Effects:* As discussed above, the ECS RACE N75 slows the speed at which the wastegate reacts to ECU boost control signals. The result is a smoother boost curve. Many customers who had "jerky" power curves found that not only has the RACE N75 valve added extra horsepower, but has nearly eliminated any irregularities in their engines power curve.

if you would like to see this in color Click here


_Modified by OLD GHOST at 2:41 PM 1-28-2006_


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## OLD GHOST (Mar 7, 2003)

*dash cleaning / interior air filter removal*

ok. i just had my NB chipped (GIAC - http://www.eurotech-atlanta.com ) and had the opportunity to watch the complete install. I have never taken apart my dash so this was a good experience and a horror.. dont get me wrong the chip install went great but when i saw the underside of dash i freaked. I cant stand leaves dropping down on to my NB and fallin into the vents under the wiper arms.. well i found out where they all go... BEHIND THE DASH !
well i had to clean this even though im the only one who will ever see it really. upon doing so i learned where the interior filter is as well and how EASY it is to take apart this dash ( w/ TLC cuz we all hate that rubbery finish VW used )
ok. here we go. * everything seems like its gonig tpo snap but its not, just be careful ! really its just like a huge plastic model.
*What youll need:*
Torx set
rags
vacuum
patience
*First we have to remove the "center trim panel". This is done by pushing back towards the windshield, at the seam that runs across your whole dash, and lifting up. You will then see 3 torx screws towards the window, center. take these out and place somewhere safe ( i choose my cup holders )*








*Then you need to remove the right / left dash covers.. This is kinda scary but again be gentle and they pop right out.
In the image above you can see the area that you can stick you hand under and lift.. Whats holding them down is these tabs that press into the dash. they are tight and will snap out of place.*








*Then basically lift up and pull out towards oppsoite side. These nub things are positioned into the wall.*








*Next are the plenum panels. There are 6 torx screws. Unscrew and lift out. This is easy.*








*will look like this completed.*








*You should have 5 pieces in the end. if not then ummmmm, your SOL * :lol:








*Ok, now for the nasty nasty.. this is what i saw when we were installing the ECU.. pics dont do it justice*
























*so i vacuumed everything out, took a damp rag and wiped around, pulled the filter and cleaned up..*
















*put back together in reverse order. very easy and now i feel much better knowing that my underside is so fresh and so clean*
:bigthumb:


_Modified by OLD GHOST at 2:41 PM 1-28-2006_


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## J.Owen (May 31, 2001)

*Headlight Black Housing Mod*

*Painted Headlight Housings*
Alright, I had a bunch of people ask me about this before and Due to school and some other things I was unable to do it at the time, But the time has finally come. Here is the Procedure for blacking out the housings in your headlights. The procedure isnt long, but it can be screwed up so be careful. I appologize i dont have any pictures as of right now, But I will try and get some and post them up when I get a chance.
1) *Headlight removal~*This can be done looking under the hood to the front sides of the engine bay and unlatching the headlights. Unlatch the hooked metal clip that wraps around the headlight, and thenlift the lever upwards while gently pulling at the lense from the front of the car. Once pulled forward unlatch the wiring harness from the back-underside of the headlight housing. Repeat on the other side to have both sides removed.
2) *separating the housing~* On the outside of the headlight housing you will find 4 clips that hold the lens and front half of the housing to the back half. work your way around the housing unlatching all 4 before trying to pull the front off. With the housing separated, place the back half somewhere it wont get broken, and mark the front half "right" or "left" depending on what side you start with.
3) *Lense removal~* At this point it is also a good idea to mark the clear lense itself what side of the car it is from, and also put a small hash mark on the top of the lense and housing so that it is easier to reassmble the lense later on. Take a hairdryer and slowly work your way around the outside front edge of the clear lense. You should be able to see a white silicon caulk like glue under the lense. This is what you are trying to heat up. As it gets warmed up you should be able to *slowly* separate the lense from the housing.
4) *Painting~* At this point you want to clean the inside of the housing as best you can. I wouldnt use too harsh of a cleaner as not to harm the housing. Use a good primer and lay a few coats on the inside of the housing. There really is no need to mask anything off as you want this whole portion painted. Once the primer has dried you are ready to paint. I used satin black but at this point it is really up to you. You can use flat or gloss black, or any color of your choice.
5) *Re-Assembly~* Once the paint has dried and you are satisfied with the look, you will need to once again heat up the glue using the hairdryer/ heater. With the glue soft again you shoudl be able to slide the lense back into the front housing. You will see that the housing has a groove and the Lense has a ridge that should slide right into the groove. Just make sure that you used your hash mark from before to make sure you have the lense on the housing the right way. With everything cooled down you shoudl be able to then snap the front housing back together with the back of the housing and check out your fine handy work.
6) *reinstalling~* To reinstall the headlight first reattach the wiring harness onto the housing. Place the housing back into the whole in the front of your car and make sure the two pins on either side of the housing slide into the grooves on the inside of the hole. Put gentle pressure on the front of the headlight pulling pushing down on the lever on the inside of your engine bay. This may take some finageling since it can be kinda of PITA. once seated in the car rehook the metal latch around the inner housing and you are good to go.
These directions are for both headlights and I recommend you do both at the same time as it will be much easier and faster. I wish you luck to anywho attempts this, but feel it is a good mod that dramatically changes the look of the front of your car. Sorry to all those who I didnt get a chance to respond to before. good Luck. Also, if anyone is real nervouse about doing this, and doesnt mind being without a car for a little while, I can do this for a moddest price. 

_Modified by bugasm99 at 11:28 PM 1-11-2004_


_Modified by bugasm99 at 10:27 PM 3-1-2007_


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## NBveeDUBer (May 1, 2003)

*Re: Headlight Black Housing Mod (bugasm99)*

in additon to the black housing mod:
krylon has a new paint out called fusion. it bonds to plastic and requires no priming just clean the housing really with with alcohol and spay i used about 3 coats and 2 coats of high gloss clear coat. it's easier then priming and won't crack or peel


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## rkbentley (Nov 22, 2002)

*Re: Headlight Black Housing Mod (NBveeDUBer)*

Great to see someone posted about how to remove the headlight to replace the bulb, my left front died, thankfully after a trip to two different autozones and a bennies, I finally found the bulbs at Pep Boys...
There wouldn't be a visual reference guide to what was posted?


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## post-it-note-killer (Mar 25, 2004)

Would anyone happen to know how many Double Yellow beetles were produced in 2002?


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## Lorem (Nov 19, 2003)

*Samco Intake (AWP) DIY.*

Samco Intake (AWP) DIY.
Part: Samco Intake hose for AWP 1.8T motor. (#GOLF-IND)
Car: 2003.5 New Beetle Turbo S
Time: 1hr (With this guide







)
Everything went very easy except for pushing down the new Samco hose. The new hose is over all thicker and require some force to get it down there. Regarding performance... I notice very little change. Turbo seem to be pulling faster. Turbo sound is also a little louder (and different tone). Not obvious, but louder if listen and compare.
It's been raining for the past few days. Notice more wheel spin than usual. Maybe Samco. Maybe lead foot. 
Overall I'm very happy with the product.










(1) Size Comparison:









(2) Opening Comparison:









(3) Removal of cowl panel: (Optional! But you'll be crazy not to)









(4) Inpect / Removal of existing piece of sheisher!









(5) Jack up the car:









(6) Remove existing metal pipe:









(7) Installing Samco 1piece pipe:









(8) Putting everything back together:









(9) Have a Duvel: http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## J.Owen (May 31, 2001)

*Front Wheel Bearing Installation*

*Front Wheel Bearing Replacement.*
Here is a little write up on how to replace your front wheel bearings. I did this on my '99 2.0 GLS, but the procedure is the same for a 1.8T. I ordered the Wheel Bearing kit from Adirondack Auto Brokers ( http://www.germanautoparts.com ). This kit included a new wheel bearing, circlip, and various nuts that were removed in this process.
_***This procedure is for one side of the car only, but is the same for both sides. If you plan to do both sides at once I recommend you break both axle nuts free before jacking the car up._
tools needed
- 30, 19, 18, 13 mm Socket
- 19, 18, 13 mm Open ended wrench
- adjustable pliars
- 6 mm allen wrench
- Breaker Bar
- Torque Wrench
- phillips screwdriver
- rubber mallet
- hammer
1 | Jack up the car and place the car on Jack Stands. Make sure the e-brake is engaged and the car is in gear. Remove the wheel. At this time I also recommend spraying some liquid wrench or similar product on the large nut on the end of the axle coming through the center of the wheel hub.
2 | Using a X mm allen wrench remove the caliper guides from the back side of your brake caliper. These can be found at either end of the caliper sorrounded by what looks like a rubber tube. Once loosened all the way the caliper can be removed by sliding it off of the rotor starting at the top and tilting it away and up. Once the caliper is off of the rotor be sure to support the caliper from the spring using wire/ string. You do not want the weight of the caliper pulling on the brake line.
3 | With the caliper removed you should be able to remove the brake rotor by unscrewing the small phillips head screw along the bolt pattern on the rotor and sliding the rotor away from the hub. If the rotor is tight on the hub give it a light tap with the rubber mallet and it should break loose as nothing else is holding it on.
4 | Once the brake assembly is all sorted out, place the 30 mm socket on the axle nut in the middle of the hub, and use the breaker bar and a ratchet to break the axle nut loose. This will take a lot of force so I would grab the largest breaker bar you can find. Try and ease the bar slowly with good force while keeping an eye on the drive shaft. You do not want the driveshaft to turn over as this means that your CV joint or trans is spinning and that is not good. Once broken free you should be able to use the ratchet to remove the nut the rest of the way.
5 | At this point you can jack up the other side of the car and support it on a jack-stand. This will relieve pressure off of the sway bar and allow the opposite side control arm to drop freely. This will be helpful in the next few steps.
6 | Using your 18 mm socket or open end you can now remove the nut in the bottom of the tie-rod end link. Once broken free the nut and the stud on the end link will begin to spin together. Using your 6 mm allen wrench in the bottom of the stud, hold the stud still while using the 18 mm open end to loosen the nut off. Once the nut is free use your rubber mallet to tap the stud from the bottom and remove the end link from the wheel bearing housing/ spindle.
7 | on the back side of the hub/ spindle assembly, underneath the drive shaft you will find a triangle shaped piece that recieves three 13 mm bolts from the bottom of the control arm. You will want to remove these three 13 mm bolts from the bottom of the control arm and remove the triangle shaped piece off of the top. 
8 | At this point you should be able to slide the hub assembly away from the control arm, At the same time you will want to pull the drive shaft from the back of the spindle. Be careful not to pull the driveshaft away from the transmission as you dont want the CV joints and drive shaft coming out of the transmission. if need be, give the end of the drive shaft a few taps from the front of the hub to break it loose.
9 | The only thing holding the hub on now is the bottom of the strut/ spring assembly. Using an 18 mm socket and open head wrench undo the bolt on the back side of the hub assembly that passes through the bottom of the shock housing. Once this bolt is removed you can slide the hub assemble off of the bottom of the shock. If these has not been removed recently or at all, you may need to bang on the top of the iron hub assembly to get it to slide off the bottom.
10 | Once the full assembly is free you will need to have the old bearing pressed out of the bearing carrier and the new bearing pressed in. You can a) follow the directions as shown in a bentley manual to press out / press in the wheel bearing. b) take the assembly and new bearing to a shop and pay them to press the assembly for you. You will need a press for this as it is nearly impossibly to remove the old bearing without the use of a press.
11 | With the new bearing in place, the procedure to reinstall everything is the same as removal, Just make sure to coat all the pieces in grease as this will greatly help the ease of puting the parts back together and help for the next time you need to do work on this area of the car.
12 | The only varying step is the torquing of the axle nut back on the axle. With the nut tight on the axle, you will want to place the wheels back on the car and lower it to the ground. With the full weight of the car on the ground you will want to tighten the axle nut to 221 ft/lb of torque. then loosen the nut one whole rotation. Retighten the nut to 37 ft/lb of torque, and then 30 degrees (one point on the nut) tighter. This will seat the bearings and then torque it down without over torquing. This is very important and I do not recommend you do this part without a torque wrench.
13 | At this point you can sit back and think of all the money you saved by doing this yourself and not paying the stealership to take care of this for you. I would definitely double check all your bolts and nuts to make sure they are tight and secure before your maiden voyage, and then some time after driving I would recheck them. 
*As Always, i recommend you do this with the understanding that I am no mechanic and do not recommend this procedure if you are unable to perform the tasks, have the skills, or unwilling to accept the consequences if you break and/ or mess up your car in any way. This is the procedure I followed and it worked for me, Do this at your own risk!!!*

_Modified by bugasm99 at 4:19 PM 2-2-2006_


_Modified by bugasm99 at 10:26 PM 3-1-2007_


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## NBveeDUBer (May 1, 2003)

coming soon.....how to replace your front end !!! and how to modify it so u dont need to remove the front clip!!! stay tuned


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## B5fromBmore (Sep 18, 2003)

*Re: The Official New Beetle/New Beetle Convertible D.I.Y./FAQ Thread (The Ninja)*

b


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## CorradoG60 (Nov 8, 2001)

I want to add to the removing the ect sensor topic at the top of the page. You don't have to let the coolant cool overnight. If you can touch the coolant hose with your bare hand, depending on YOUR tolerance to what is hot and what isn't. Open the top of the coolant expansion tank. You'll hear the pressure being relieved. With your right hand squeese the top hose from the radiator that goes to the coolant flange. While still sqeezing the hase tighted the coolant tank cap with your left hand until completely closed. Now you will not spill a drop of cooalnt because you have just created a vacuum in the coolant system and nothing will come out when the sensor is pulled.


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## misch (Jul 1, 2006)

*Newbie Question: Air Filter*

I have a 04 VW New Beetle TDI. Can I replace my old air filter with a K&N oil saturated filter? I was told this may interfere with the air flow sensors.


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## 04-VR6-GLI (Sep 28, 2005)

does anyone know how to take the steering wheel off it seems diff. then a mk4 jetta


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## 01Sport (Aug 14, 2006)

*Re: BACK FROM THE DEAD - IT'S THE FAQ BEETLE THREAD!! (dl337)*

Just to add to your wonderful instructions. Don't open your coolant bottle. I made that mistake and all the coolant up to the level of the coolant temp hose drained out. DOH!


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## wolfsburg21 (Sep 4, 2006)

this will be VERY helpful come time to put mine on...thanks bud http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## J.Owen (May 31, 2001)

*Sway Bar Bushing Replacement*

*Sway Bar Bushing Replacement*
If you are hearing any noise from the front of you car over bumps, or are simply looking to perform some maintanance on a high mileage bug, your sway bar bushings are probably in need of replacement. With 125k on my odometer I decided to swap mine out for a set of prothane sway bar bushings. 
If you just want a replacement and will not be under your car enough to watch and relubricate the bushings, i recommend purchasing a set of OEM sway bar bushings. Be sure to have your VIN handy as VW changed both the diameter of the sway bar and the style of bushing/ bracket over time.








*Tools Needed* 
- Jack and Jack Stands
- 13 mm socket
- 16 mm socket -or- box wrench
*Procedure* 
- Raise both front wheels off the ground and place on jack stands. Make sure you use jack stands as you do not want your car coming down on top of you. Make sure to use the proper jack points for both raising the car and placing it on the stands.
- Remove both front wheels from the car.
- Pick a side to work on and turn the steering wheel toward that side of the car. So if you want to work on the passenger side front, turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. This will move the inner tie-rod boot out of the way and give you enough rough to work on the bushings.
- Remove the sway bar end link where at attaches to the lower control arm. This is a 16mm bolt holding the lower link into the control arm. Once the bolt is removed simply swing the end link up and out of the way.








- You will find the sway bar bushing above the back side of the control arm in front of the accordion boot for the inner tie rod end.
- On top of the bracket holding the boshing is a 13 mm bolt. This can be removed using a socket or a box wrench. There is not much room to work in, but with the tie rod pulled into the steering rack you will have enough room to remove the bolt as well as remove the bracket.








- The bottom of the bracket has a hook on it that loops into the subframe. With the 13mm bolt removed you should be able to wiggle the sway bar itself. By shifting the bar around you will loosen the bracket and can then rotate the top of the bracket away from the bolt hole. With the top rotated toward the rear of the car and the sway bar raised in the air, you should be able to "unhook" the bracket.
- This image shows you how the bracket looks off the car and you can see how the hook works.








- Once the bracket is removed from the car you can pull the bushing itself off of the bar. The bushing is split on the back side and is simply pulled apart and wrapped around the sway bar. Depending on how old/ how many miles you have the bushing will most likely be worn and will come off the bar fairly easily.
- In this pic you can see how the bar sits without the bushing/ bracket in. This should also give you an idea of what your working with the get the bushing and bracket back in.








- Reinstallation is simply the reverse of the above procedure. Make sure you use the provided grease/ lubricant or the bushings will creak and make noise over time. Since the bushings are new it make take a little strength to get the bracket back into place where you can thread the 13 mm bolt back into place. By wiggling the sway bar and shifting the bushing you will eventually get the bolt to thread into place.
- Repeat on opposite side of car.
- When finished, bolt the wheels back on, lower off the jack stands, take a nice drive and enjoy a cold









*Extras*[
- In this pic you can see the difference between the old bushing (left) and the new bushing (right). The OEM bushing was worn and the center hole for the sway bar was enlarged quite a bit allowing the bar to shift around.










_Modified by bugasm99 at 10:54 PM 3-28-2007_


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## the_journalist (Jul 21, 2004)

*Re: Sway Bar Bushing Replacement (bugasm99)*

*1.8T PCV "Y" hose replacement:*

The Y shaped PCV hose on the 1.8T engine is prone to becoming soft and splitting open after a time. There are two revisions of the hose, an early and a late production hose. Both are overpriced for what they are, but the earlier hose is around $20 to $30 more than the later one. The later hose, along with being cheaper, is molded different and slightly thicker at the split where the hose is prone to break.
The later hose WILL FIT THE EARLIER CARS. The primary fitment difference between the two is the later hose is slightly too large for the outlet on the valve cover. However, a standard hose clamp will squeeze the hose down nicely. So, a 20 cent clamp saves you 20 dollars, and you get a better hose than the original as a bonus.
Another little known fact is that that same hose is usually cheaper from an Audi delarship than from a VW dealership. Just tell them you need that hose for an '03 Audi 180hp TT.


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## J.Owen (May 31, 2001)

*Wheel / Tire Example Thread for the New Beetle*

Here is a link to my wheel tire example thread which shows different wheel sizes and offsets that will fit on the beetle and how they will look.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3101294


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## Buffycat242 (Aug 14, 2007)

I have a 2002 VW New Beetle and the trunk lid won't open. The remote will open the doors, but not the trunk lid. The button on the inside driver's door doesn't open it either. It does not have a lock on the lid to insert a key. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to have to pay a dealer a lot of $$'s plus an arm and leg.


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## Vaughan (Jan 17, 2004)

*Re: (Buffycat242)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Buffycat242* »_I have a 2002 VW New Beetle and the trunk lid won't open. The remote will open the doors, but not the trunk lid. The button on the inside driver's door doesn't open it either. It does not have a lock on the lid to insert a key. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to have to pay a dealer a lot of $$'s plus an arm and leg.

Fold a back seat half down and grab the red emergency, "in case you lock yourself in the trunk" handle. That'll get it open when you have to get in. Or out


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## Buffycat242 (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: (Vaughan)*

If it has one, it's hiding.


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## OLD GHOST (Mar 7, 2003)

*How-to: Mass Air Flow cleaning for the 1.8T New Beetle*

How-to: Mass Air Flow cleaning for the 1.8T New Beetle. I have a how-to on my blog. There is also a PDF for download.








http://oneighturbo.com/2007/09...wagen/ 


_Modified by OLD GHOST at 8:16 AM 2-17-2008_


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## OstTrefftWest (Sep 28, 2002)

*Retrofitting cruise control to 2.0 AVH (drive-by-wire) NBs*

*IMPORTANT FOREWORD:* This writeup is incomplete. My mechanical-engineer father-in-law and I have done the homework, cross-checked wiring diagrams, torn down the dashboard to see what we're working with, etc. However, one of the harnesses you need to access to do this job is nearly inaccessible, and we haven't figured out how to get to it. But I offer this information anyway, because I don't think there's any other similar writeups out there — and an incomplete writeup is better than none. As always, tear into your own car at your own risk.
*ADDING CRUISE CONTROL TO 2.0 AVH* (and, I suspect, any other drive-by-wire NB — but don't quote me on that)
_The Overview_: You buy a kit that has the turn-signal stalk with cruise switches, plus a wire harness to mate it into your car. You pop one lead out of the back of your fusebox, and substitute one of the leads on the new harness. (The lead you removed gets piggybacked onto the new lead.) Then, you pop the other four leads of the new harness into a black 10-pin connector way under your dashboard. Finally run the other end of that harness up the steering column, pop off the steering wheel, pop on the new turn-signal stalk, and reassemble. Flash the ECU to recognize that the cruise function is there, and enjoy.
_The Specifics_: The "overview" makes the job sound easier than it is, but here's what I've figured out.
1. Buy Volkswagen special tool VAS 1978/4 (or better, try to get a generic equivalent through your friendly neighborhood auto-parts store so you don't pay out the nose). This is the tool to effortlessly remove that lead from your fusebox. Especially at roughly $5 for the generic tool, it's well worth it to save hassle and potential damage.
2. Go to your dealer (or 1stVWParts.com, or TMTuning, etc.) and order part *1J0 998 527 A*. It'll show up as being a cruise-control kit for Golf/Jetta TDI — but the parts are right; it just means you'll get the wrong installation manual (hence this writeup). The kit is the cruise-equipped turn signal stalk, plus a wiring harness with five flying leads at one end and a small 10-pin plug on the other. (The small plug goes into the stalk; the flying leads get grafted into the car.)
3. Look over the Golf/Jetta instructions included with the kit — you need to do the same thing on your NB, but the stuff is in different locations. Fortunately, the wiring stuff all matches up.
(a) Just like on Golf/Jetta, you need to install the black/blue lead into the back of Fuse 5. This is where the special tool above is worth its weight in gold. (Do as I say and not as I did — save yourself the headache and buy the bleepin' tool.)
(b) The other four leads (which get added into blank locations on a large black 10-pin connector already in the car) are labeled [1], [2], [3], and [9]. Though intended for G/J TDI, those are also the correct pin numbers for an NB 2.0.
4. Start digging into the car:
(a) *Disconnect your battery.* You'll be removing the airbag, which involves explosives. Don't mess with it until leaving the battery disconnected for 30 minutes — unless you like losing fingers, getting phosphorous burns, etc. Plus, you need power disconnected to safely muck around with the back side of the fuse panel, too.
(b) Using Torx T-20 and T-25 bits, remove the driver's-side lower dash cover. There's two screws under the center console near the hazard switch, way at the back. Also pop off the two trip pieces to the sides of those switches — there's two more screws back there. The rest of it is just looking for screws, removing them, and semi-carefully wiggling the plastic dash parts to pop them out of their spring clips. You'll figure it out as you go. Don't be unnecessarily brutal, but the plastic pieces are pretty sturdy — you'd have to be pretty ham-fisted to break them.
(c) Remove the end cover for the driver's side of the dash, where the door to the fuse panel is. It's all spring clips — just pry gently and pop it out.
(d) The fusebox is held in place with two Torx T-25s. Remove them; it'll give you more room to work with.
(e) Remove Fuse 5; then with the special tool, push the connector for the right side of that fuse out the back of the fusebox. Replace it with the black/blue lead from your new harness. Then, plug the old lead into the piggyback provision on the new harness. (Trust me; it's obvious when you have the parts in hand.)
5. *Here's the step I'm missing.* The connector where the other four leads need to go is under the dash, facing downward, way back near the firewall. Even with all the lower dash panels on the driver's side removed, you can barely see it -- and only by spotting the similar white and orange connectors in the same place. You can see it, but not reach it well enough to work with. *Anybody who can supply info on how to get those connectors pulled up into an area where you can actually work with them will be my hero.* But the good news is that if you can get at the connector, you just match the new harness's leads with the corresponding pin numbers on that harness.
6. Remove the airbag cover from the steering wheel. I assume the process is basically as outlined for Golf/Jetta, though I didn't get this far because of my hangup at Step 5. Once the airbag is out, removing the wheel is easy — just mark how it;s lined up BEFORE unbolting the wheel. Otherwise, it won't be aligned right when you put it back on. Once the wheel's off, you've got easy access to pull your old turn-signal stalk and put on the new one. Run the the tiny 10-pin connector from your new harness up the steering column and plug it into the back of the new cruise-equipped switch.
7. Bolt stuff back up.
8. To play it safe, have your dealer flash your ECU with the correct code to activate the cruise-control function — I can't vouch whether the 5-digit code listed in the factory instructions for TDI would be correct for any other engine.
Again, I know it's incomplete, but it's more info than was out there before. Hope it saves someone else a lot of this background work. And if anyone ever gets past the parts where I got hung up, please IM me so we can maybe clean up and simplify this write up.
Cheers!


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## Amsterdam087 (Dec 31, 2007)

*Re: Retrofitting cruise control to 2.0 AVH (drive-by-wire) NBs (OstTrefftWest)*

Mr. TT,
Above you stated that a TDI midpipe can replace a midmuffler on a beetle. Are these just turbo models or can I use the TDI midpipe on my 2.0 8v ? Not familar with this and you have me interested as my car needs some exhaust work after the 150,000 miles I have racked up. Thanks for your feed back in advance.


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## Amsterdam087 (Dec 31, 2007)

*Re: Retrofitting cruise control to 2.0 AVH (Amsterdam087)*

If anyone knows please hit me up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## apr2001beetle18t (Feb 19, 2008)

*Re: BACK FROM THE DEAD - IT'S THE FAQ BEETLE THREAD!! (Mr TT)*

What is the name of that pipe in your picture you're removing? I bought my beetle and apparently the previous owner tried to fix it with electrical tape!~!!!


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## jazzcat2001 (Mar 17, 2004)

*Re: (post-it-note-killer)*


_Quote, originally posted by *post-it-note-killer* »_Would anyone happen to know how many Double Yellow beetles were produced in 2002? 

this was forever ago but VWoA told us that there were 2000 of all of the CC beetles made for each color


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## sledge0001 (Oct 7, 2007)

*Re: The Official New Beetle/New Beetle Convertible D.I.Y./FAQ Thread (The Ninja)*

Great picture with Part Numbers of The 1.8t NB Vacuum Lines:








Key thing to note: The N249 & N112 valves have new part numbers as per VW. Original part number is 028906283N newer part number is 06A906283F 
These following pictures show where to place a MBC and show the vacuum components. These are compliments of member zeusenergy http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: The Official New Beetle/New Beetle Convertible D.I.Y./FAQ Thread (sledge0001)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sledge0001* »_Great picture with Part Numbers of The 1.8t NB Vacuum Lines:
These following pictures show where to place a MBC and show the vacuum components. These are compliments of member zeusenergy http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


Thanks for posting those! I've got a ton of info compiled, so take a deep breath, 18 pages comin at ya


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: The Official New Beetle/New Beetle Convertible D.I.Y./FAQ Thread (zeusenergy)*

*Zeusenergy's Guide to the 1.8T New Beetle Engine and Related Systems*

Intro:
Since February 2008, I have had my 2001 New Beetle Sport 1.8T. I loved the car when it was stock. But there was also plenty of room to modify the car to many new levels. I chose the car due to the following priorities:
1)Price- GTI's are MUCH more costly with the same miles and condition.
2)availability- New Beetles are constantly passed over for the "hotter" GTI/Golf/Jetta.
3)Desire for a 2-door sport coupe- the other choice was a Passat B5, and that's not a coupe!
4)MUST HAVE 1.8T. It's powerful, reliable, and economical plus a huge aftermarket.
5)I just like the NB over the MK4's anyway!
So now that I have the car, what to do? Discover what makes it tick, of course. Over six months time, I lurked in the forums online and found out everything I needed to know to try messin' with the car. And in only a couple months, I went from the stock 8 PSI to 16 PSI with a MBC/diode, to dual MBC's, and finally to the current (7/08) setup with the N75 and WOT operated single MBC. Now I have 10 PSI continuous, and 14 PSI at full throttle. There are ZERO limp mode troubles and everything works just like stock, except the added performance especially at WOT. All of my modifications were done under the watchful eye of a boost gauge in my dash. And these modifications led me to learn much more about the 1.8T than most people will ever have to. Of course, I'm not running any big turbo package or anything. So I have not torn down the engine (YET!) I do plan to chip the car at some point, probably during Waterfest 2009.
If you are reading this info, then obviously you are here for the lowdown on the 1.8T and its operation. Or... you are here to try and discredit the information within, nitpicking and arguing. If it's the latter, then please make sure you have your facts straight. First off, this is a NEW BEETLE we are talking about, not a MK4. There are many differences between the 1.8T in both types of car. And of course, my car will differ from some of the NB's out there too, with regard to what it will or will not handle. We all know after being around these VAGs that two cars off the same production line CAN and DO differ. 
Also, this is not an end-all single document that will tell yo everything under the sun. I think I've compiled an appropriate range of subjects and enough information for FAQ status, adding to what has already been said or just clarifying basics for the novice. 
So back to the subject. The 1.8T engine in the 2001 sport is called AWV. My car was built in May of 2001, making it a 2001.5 if you will. The transaxle in the car is a five speed manual 02J on my car. This car produces 150 HP stock at 8 PSI, which is supposedly understated by the factory... I have heard rumors that it was measured at the wheels. Either way, 150 HP is what it is. There is a NB "S" turbo model as well, and it produces 180HP stock, engine designation AWP. It is a retuned version of the AWV allowing for 12 PSI stock. Both of these engines run a "better" version of the KO3 turbo, sometimes called the KO3s. Physically the two engines are identical. Then there is the older version of the 1.8T carried in the NB, called the APH- also producing the same HP from the factory as the NB sport... 150 HP at 8 PSI. This older model (1999-early 2001) has a regular KO3 turbo, which is capable of less boost at higher RPM's than the KO3s and also has a smaller inlet for the compressor and smaller turbine (exhaust) side. Mine is a KO3-053 if I'm reading the tag correctly- which makes it the better one. The APH also has a different cylinder head from what I have heard.
All other differences are trivial and for the most part, the systems in all three engine codes are operated the same way. Any differences I have noted across the ranges will be discussed in each section. take note of the differences in the MK4 as discussed in each section as well- it may help you to diagnose problems or modify your car even though the real estate looks different between them. MK4 guys have much more to offer, as there are more of them and there are more DIY types than the average NB owner. with this info in hand you should be able to figure out what you need to look at when they discuss certain devices or systems that just don't live in your engine bay as they may show or describe. If you own a MK4, you may even get some info here that may help you.



_Modified by zeusenergy at 7:24 AM 5-6-2009_


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: The Official New Beetle/New Beetle Convertible D.I.Y./FAQ Thread (zeusenergy)*

*Engine Basics- Block and cylinder Head, Mechanical and Lube/cooling*
The 1.8T is a five valve per cylinder engine. Three valves are for each cylinder to intake air, and the other two are devoted to exhaust purging. It has dual overhead cams with a single drive cog that is turned by a toothed timing belt. This belt also operates the water pump. A tensioner and idler pulley exist under the timing cover to adjust the tension of the belt, and assist it to make better contact area with the cam cog and crank cog. Any timing belt replacement should include water pump, tensioner, and idler as well as a full coolant changeout. A small drive gear on the crankshaft just under the timing cog and a flanged housing (containing the front main seal) drives the oil pump located directly below these items. 
The exhaust cam is the belt driven one. the intake cam is attached to the exhaust cam by a chain at the rear of the cylinder head- driver side. this chain is either tensioned by a simple tensioner, or by an electrically operated variable timing mechanism (called the N205 camshaft adjustment valve: CAV or "VVT") that changes the relationship of the two cams, reducing the overlap or increasing it (the overlap is the time both intake and exhaust valves are open, between the exhaust and intake strokes of the motor.) The CAV is included in later model engines, I believe the APH has the simple tensioner. You can tell which is yours by looking at the driver side of the cam cover, just above where the upper radiator hose meets the motor, under the cam cover vent hose. There will be an electrical harness plugged into a small plug there if you have the CAV. The CAV is not for increased performance, it helps in reducing emissions from what I have heard. It also costs more to replace, and can fail as can the regular tensioner. Chain guides in this location can also fail, leading to a loud noise when no load is applied. A filter housing for oil is located near the rear of the motor between the radiator and motor side facing it. It has a fitting for PCV gases to escape the engine block, a fitting for the oil pressure sending unit, and an attached water-to-oil cooler to assist in warmups and temperature variations between coolant and oil. An additional fitting provides oil pressure to the turbo oil bearing. A small electric pump continues to pass coolant through the turbo housing after shutdown for a few minutes and it lives on the cooling fan plastic guard, near the oil dipstick and alternator. Additional coolant lines pass to the turbo around the back of the motor and they can fail or possibly rot out, especially near the front motor mount on the passenger side. coolant for this engine is labelled as G12 and is specific to the VAG range. If you use any other type, you may cause premature wear to the water pump in particular, and also the coolant passages and seals. If you know that your car has had any other type of coolant installed, please drain and flush, then refill as soon as possible. Short duration use of non-approved coolant may be fine, but only in an emergency situation. oil for this engine generally calls for full synthetic of varying weights. You may use regular conventional "dino" oil after the initial break-in period, but must change oil at 3000 mile intervals instead of the much higher intervals requested by VAG. Dino oil tends to coke up the oil bearing of the turbo and sludge the oil passages pretty quickly if you let it go too long, or shut your engine off right after a hard run. the best advice is to let your engine idle for a minute before shutdown in all cases. It will prolong the life of your engine and turbo! 
There are two oil lines attached to the turbo. the input line comes from the oil filter housing, and the output line goes right into the oil pan. There is a large filter available for the 1.8T normally used in the Passat application. It will spin onto the filter housing just like the smaller one, and increases the oil capacity and filtering capability. 
The water pump moves coolant through the block, to the head, and to the water flange at the back of the head. From there, a pipe is attached and the coolant temperature sensors are mounted to this piece, between the head and radiator upper tank. The coolant temp sensor (CTS) that fails often is the one closest to the head. It can be replaced with no tools except a simple pick or tiny screwdriver to get the clip off. Replacement of this part should be done with a cold engine, pull the overflow tank cap, replace it, then begin pulling the clip off the CTS towards the front of the car. The CTS should pop right out, and replacement should include a new rubber O-ring inside the hole the CTS came out of. Replace the clip, and all is good. 
From the radiator lower tank, coolant goes to the thermostat located just between the alternator and block. It's a difficult removal due to the tight quarters, but can be done with care and the right tools without removing the alternator.


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: The Official New Beetle/New Beetle Convertible D.I.Y./FAQ Thread (zeusenergy)*

*PCV System*
The PCV system on this engine is complex due to the fact it is boosted by a turbocharger, and compounded by the two different fittings that attaches to the internal passages. One of the passages is in the valve cover. The other is in the oil filter housing. These are hooked up to a pipe which has two possible ways of drawing foul air and gasses out of the engine: one is in the intake hose attached to the air filter (TIP), the other is attached to the intake manifold. Some 1.8T engines do not have the valve cover connection at all. This is especially true for older models of VAG, not necessarily in the NB. The models that do not have a valve cover connection take only crankcase fumes out, while the valve cover connection will assist in venting the top of the motor- which prevents the rising vapors from settling on the cams and valvetrain, and to relieve the pressure buildup in the valvetrain case. An additional feature of the PCV system is a one-way valve that prevents boost from the intake manifold from pushing pressurized charge air back into the crankcase. During the onboost times, a connection at the turbo intake pipe (TIP) will accomodate the vacuum needed to draw out the fumes from the block and head. Some of the VAG guys will use a "catch can" instead of the stock PCV system. A catch can can be vented directly to the atmosphere through a small filter at the top of the catch can, or that connection can be rerouted back into the intake like stock. The main reason for this modification is to reduce the amount of lines under the intake manifold and to get rid of the plastic and rubber connections that tend to crack open or break off entirely. Poor running conditions and possible stalls or low boost conditions can result from broken PCV lines.
These lines are quite expensive for what they are and not very reliable after a few years and many miles of use. If you wish to do a catch can mod, there is a few different methods available, but the main one most people follow is to vent back into the TIP like the stock method. This prevents odors from coming from the engine but it doesn't always prevent one of the main concerns: oil in the intake and hoses, and intercooler. Some catch cans do not have good baffling to capture and liquify the oil vapors. Also, you are burning nasty fumes in your motor, which isn't so good for it and also tends to lower performance ever so slightly. If you find oil inside of any of the intake lines, then your PCV system may be failing. There is a small round device attached to the TIP that all of the PCV hoses route to. This "UFO" (Pressure regulator Valve) as it is called traps oil vapors, and allows them to gravity feed back into the crankcase through the same lines. It can get clogged up and stop condensing the vapors, allowing them to form back into liquid after hitting the turbocharger. This makes the intercooler fill up with oil rather quickly, and might make you think that the turbo oil bearing is failing. These are the two basic reasons for oil in the intercooler, but the first thing to check is the UFO for failure. The throttle body can also get clogged with oil and it may harden in the bore due to this problem. That's why alot of VAG guys will tell you to do a throttle body cleaning. If you don't fix the problem, it will recur yearly, and can manifest some strange symptoms such as poor idle, reduced response, and overall poor performance. This condition may even make your TB fail entirely if left in this condition, and TB's are not cheap by any means.


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: The Official New Beetle/New Beetle Convertible D.I.Y./FAQ Thread (zeusenergy)*

*Basic Control Systems*
Throttle Body:
The Throttle Body itself is called a drive by wire (DBW) and it does not have any throttle cable attached at all like old school cars. It's only operated by electrical signal through a servo motor and TB position sensor. This also means that a misaligned TB needs to be reset through a VW approved computer or by a VAG-COM by Ross-Tech. There is a set of instructions to reset the TB listed in a few forums sometimes called the "chicken dance" due to the pointless nature of the steps. I can't confirm or deny the truth of what I read in the forums, so I tend to think it's placebo effect. A couple forum members have claimed they tried the chicken dance with VAG-COM connected to see the motion of the TB, or even removed the upper IC cold-side hose and did it both ways to prove only a computer reset will work. I happen to believe their findings. the harness for the TB isn't notorious for failing, but it could play a part in trouble so always check the connection and terminals for corrosion or cracked insulation on the wires. 
Coil Packs and OBD-II Scan Tool:
The coil packs operate in a similar manner as any old fashioned coil. A small voltage is sent through a coil, building up a voltage to very high levels. This voltage is released through the spark plugs by the engine computer (ECM) just before the piston gets to the top of its travel and before the power stroke. These coils are located on top of every spark plug at the very top of the valve cover, and most of the unit is embedded in the holes provided to remove spark plugs, like an iceberg. No other maintenance is required for a tune up other than the spark plugs, according to the manufacturer. The spark plugs many people run in these engines are NGK BKR6e for stock boost up to 16 PSI. Modified and high boost applications usually run BKR7e, as they are a "cooler" plug and tend to deal with the demands of higher boost levels. There are many people who claim to have replaced many coil packs on the 1.8T cars across the VAG lines. These parts are almost as consumable as spark plugs in many people's opinions. I have 93,000 current miles on my car, and I haven't replaced one yet. The previous owner may have.... In any case, these parts are very easy to replace. There is a single plug attached to each one. To diagnose trouble with misfiring in one cylinder, remove the affected coil pack and swap it to a different cylinder, and retest the car to see if the misfire moves to another cylinder. This simple test requires only hand tools and any OBD-II scan tool that will work with the VAG line. Some are available on ebay very cheap, under $30 in most cases. You will ALWAYS need this tool so you can discover what is amiss. A real VAG-COM will set you back about $300, but it will also allow for modifying certain things such as doing a TB alignment or scanning for vehicle specific troubles outside of the engine. At the very least you will need a basic scan tool or PC-compatible adapter and shareware version of VAG-COM that you can get free. Another problem in the spark system is the wiring to the coil packs. It can get heated up, cooled down, drenched with water, dried with dirt, and generally gets abused even with careful maintenance and babying the car. The insulation is prone to crack on these wires and the ground connection for all four coils lead to the same screw at the top of the valve cover. If you are having coil or misfire trouble, and the problem DOESN'T move when you swap packs, then most likely it's the wiring. The wires can be removed and remade, or you can buy the new harness from the dealer. Some people have re-wrapped the wires with electrical tape and sanded the grounds back down. Any attempt to repair a visually bad harness is a good idea!
MAF, MAP/CPS, ECM, and O2 Sensors:
The ECM is the brain of the operation and it contains "maps" of how to control all of the electrical devices listed in this info based on what software is installed on it and the required changes to be made depending on conditions such as temperature, load, air-fuel mixture, amount of air entering versus RPM and boost, and many more. The ECM in the NB is located right in front of the driver, under the smooth forward dash section. This is different than any other VAG car, mostly because of the amount of room under the NB hood is at a premium! The APH motor cars have a removable chip that would need to be installed physically in the ECM to see performance gains through the many vendors of performance software. AWV and AWP cars can be "flashed" easily by the same OBD-II connector under the dash that is used to scan for codes. don't be fooled by any online or other source of "chips" that you install to trick a sensor. These are snake oil vendors. What you will pay for a REAL software package is complete retuning of the fuel curve, ignition timing, and boost pressure maps. These software flashes will cost about $500, and you may gain up to 50 horsepower!
The Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) determines the amount of air entering into the engine by a tiny wire filament. This filament changes its resistance with varying flow of air around it, and this resistance translates into a map of what the ECM sees as certain amounts of air intake. This is the main way for the ECM to know what is going on with air to fuel mixture, and adjusts the amount of fuel it injects determined by the MAF reading, O2 sensor readings, MAP sensor pressure, and intake air temperature (IAT) as well as load condition (amount of work being performed to move the car.) All of these factors are very important, and the engine may still run without one of them disconnected- although it will run poorly, in a protected or fallback mode. Don't take the advice of some and disconnect the MAF wiring unless it helps your car temporarily drive to be repaired. You will get reduced fuel mileage and possibly poor performance even though it may run better than before unplugging. The best thing is to scan the car for faults to find the actual trouble! You will find the MAF attached directly to the air filter housing on almost all VAG cars, and all New Beetles share this characteristic. The MAF may be cleaned with electronic cleaner spray if it is known to have a problem, otherwise direct replacement is necessary.
O2 sensors take the fuel unburned in the engine itself and turn that amount in the exhuast into a signal that the ECM sees. The relationship between the pre-catalyst sensor and after CAT sensor determines the efficency of the CAT itself. This is done to make sure your emissions are in check and the second O2 sensor has no other function at all. The pre-CAT sensor does all the heavy lifting, showing the ECM what fuel to air quantities the engine is burning so that injector quantity can be adjusted to suit the engine's operating conditions. This keeps the efficiency of fuel to the best map the ECM has available to match that condition, and makes sure everything the engine is doing matches what it should be doing. O2 sensors are loacted on either end of the downpipe separated by the catalytic converter.
The MAP sensor (actually called a charge-air pressure sensor by VAG, or CPS) measures the amount of pressure the turbo is providing to the engine. The "MAP" name has to do with other makes of car using a Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor, which is really what this part does- just not in the manifold! It's located at the top of the intercooler right in front of the passenger side tire. You can access the plug easiest by removing the passenger side turn signal lens, but removing the sensor can't be done without removing more parts. It has a varying resistance signal that can go no higher than 5 volts. At 4.3 volts, the CPS is reading about 11 PSI and at 4.7 volts it reads about 17 PSI. These are the normal values for installing diodes on the wiring for the CPS. The ECM will put you in "limp" mode if the pressure signal is too high for the map it contains. The ECM determines the amount of boost it needs, changes the boost levels, and reads them by the CPS values. If the values it REQUESTS are within a few PSI of what the turbo provides, then all is well. If the ECM requests more PSI and the CPS doesn't see the values increase, the ECM will keep increasing the boost until the values are correct. This is why the diode works in conjunction with modified boost controllers: you can set the boost higher than what the ECM can see, because the diode only passes a MAXIMUM of the diode's voltage value. If the ECM gets more signal than what it requests, in other words too much boost, it will either reduce boost through it's stock boost controller (N75), open the diverter valve through the N249, or close up the throttle body depending on what works at the time to reduce boost.


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: The Official New Beetle/New Beetle Convertible D.I.Y./FAQ Thread (zeusenergy)*

*Turbo System and Boost Control*
Basic Info:
Among the many hoses and connections you will find under the hood, the turbo itself is well hidden in the back of the engine bay, and is nearly impossible to see without a mirror. The turbo is a KO3 made by the KKK turbo company in all turbo beetles and also across the VAG line from 1999-2005 for the most part. S4's, TT's, GTI's and GLI's, they all use it in earlier year models. It's a tiny charger known for quick spool-up and great low end grunt, but falls off at higher RPMs in all cases. Upgrading to the K04 is a direct swap in these cars, and gives an extra few horses right away plus it will support better boost at higher RPMs. The K04 is still basically the same turbo design, so many people in the very high performance realm will replace their K03 with something from Garrett with a much larger compressor and larger turbine in some cases. These "big turbo" (BT) installations are very involved and require new connecting rods for the engine to withstand the 300+ HP output. Most BT installs include a custom exhaust manifold, new intake piping, a front mount intercooler, and completely reworked engine management through software flashes or even what is called "stand alone" management- which requires replacing the entire engine management system and wiring with new components. Sizing increase of (or deletion of!) the MAF and a new higher pressure Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) and a new intake manifold with larger throttle body are also common. You can expect an easy 220 HP and 250 Lbs/Ft of Torque out of a well tuned K03 setup and 250 HP out of the K04. Maximum HP on the K03 has been determined to be AROUND 260 HP with several well chosen modifications and pushing the turbo well beyond its limitations, leading to a very reduced lifespan. You can expect about 17 PSI continuous up to 4000 RPM, and a drop afterward slowly petering off to 12-14 PSI at about 6000 RPM. This is reliable power, and keeps the turbo in it's range of efficiency. A simple chip flash will provide this kind of output. Pushing it to 20+ PSI continuous will lead to more power, and bring you closer to the 260 HP maximum but will destroy the turbo very quickly. I've heard of some guys running 25 PSI on K03's and that's just ridiculous unless you are starving to replace it and have a backup car to use when the turbo explodes. Besides, the K03 can't hold that kind of PSI at higher RPM's anyway, so what's the point?
Turbo performance isn't just about pressure- it's about VOLUME. And smaller turbos, even though they have quicker spool up, do not have the kind of volume output that a larger compressor side turbo would. BT installs don't just increase pressure across the RPM range, they increase the volume of the air as well as the pressure to make more power at a lighter load on the turbo itself.

If you don't know what a turbo does... a simple explanation is two fans in different rooms with a shaft connecting them. If wind in one room turns one fan, the other fan will begin turning and blow air in the second room. Imagine now that the fan being blown by the wind is in the exhaust stream. This is called the "turbine" side of the turbo. The fan in the second room would be the compressor side of the turbo, the side where we would use the power from the turbine to spin up another fan to provide air pressure to do work. It's a simple explanation to give those of us without the technical expertise to understand the concept and grasp it better. There is much more to it, but this is the basics. 
A turbo provides pressure to the intake charge to push more fuel and air into the cylinders of the motor. The more fuel and air you can pack into a cylinder, the more powerful the output will be. Cooler air is more densely packed, so driving in cooler conditions will give your car a little more power than if you ran it in a hot climate. conversely, at high altitudes, there is less air pressure available above you, so therefore your car will perform poorer than if you were at sea level. The reason is that air pressure at sea level is about 14.5 PSI, due to the weight of the air being pulled down by gravity in a one inch square "bar" (yes, air weighs that much!) This is where the readings on some pressure guages comes from, called Bar. Each single number of the bar scale equals 14.5 PSI. So 2 bar equals 29 PSI, and 1.5 bar equals about 22 PSI. So at 5000 Ft above the sea, the air will weigh less. And less still at 10,000 Ft. The air molecules at higher elevations are less squeezed together because less of them are above that point pushing down. Imagine a pig-pile of people. The people at the bottom are going to be in more pain, as there are many more above pushing down than somewhere nearer the top. So more potential energy exists in the lower area than towards the top. The same goes for air molecules. The more packed in you can get them, the more energy you can extract out of them. a turbocharger artificially provides more pressure than the atmosphere does, pumping air into it at a high rate. 

Intercooler Function:
All of this activity tends to heat the air up, due to the pushing being done and also parasitic transfer of heat from the exhaust side and engine bay location of the turbo itself. For the engine, heat can be a double-edged sword. Like discussed earlier, heated air isn't as densely packed as cooler air, and also with the levels of temperature the air can get to after the turbo (200 F and more) the engine may ignite the charge before the spark plug goes off (preignition or "knocking.") Of course modern engines such as the 1.8T have knock sensors which detect the occurance of preignition, and adjust the timing and performance of the motor to prevent it from happening as best as possible. But this also reduces output. So to help cool the incoming charge, the pressurized air goes through an intercooler. Intercoolers (IC's) are nothing more than simple radiators that the pressurized air flow through, designed for increased flow and volume that the engine's intake can ingest. Air flows around and through the intercooler at speed through ducting, and that air is separated from the pressurized air inside by the metal the intercooler is made from. The cooler ambient air flows through the core of the IC and that transfers the heat from the pressurized air to the metal core, which is moved away by the airflow around and through the core. 
You can purchase a better IC for your car. A better version of the stock intercooler (side mount intercooler, SMIC) is available but it's an expensive option at about $800, and the stock ducting and location aren't ideal for high-boost BT applications. These SMICs would be great for helping cool off chipped and K04 equipped cars, but with borderline high boost (20+ PSI) and BT cars, the best bet is a front-mount intercooler (FMIC). Installing a SMIC is easy, as the hoses just connect to the new unit and the part bolts right in with minimal cutting or modification to the car. FMICs are mostly one-off setups, with your choice of piping, core, and connective hose as well as custom mounting brackets and holes that need to be drilled and tapped. Battery relocation is almost a must in FMIC installs to get the charge pipe to the driver side of the FMIC. There are other options for installing the plumbing, such as top and bottom style tank FMICs on a short path core with a couple of small elbows to adapt to the original plumbing. Really any FMIC will be full custom, as there are no ready-made FMIC kits for the NB.
Installing any better, larger IC will tend to increase your power output but ONLY if the pressure AND volume output of your turbo can support it. The added volume of an FMIC for example along with the additional longer hoses or pipes adds a small pressure drop and lack of immediate response from the turbo, so the time for boost to build will be longer and boost pressure will be less, effectively making the car slower. The SMIC install shouldn't effect the car negatively, especially if you have a flashed ECM providing more boost to begin with. The stock IC is capable of handling 15-17 PSI without too much heat soak (Heat soak is the heat saturation of the metal material the IC core is made from, to the point it can no longer transfer heat FROM the charge air, rather it begins to pass heat INTO the charge air until the core cools sufficiently.)
As noted earlier, the CPS is mounted on the IC in its top tank, on the cold side. Removal of the IC requires inner fenderwell removal on the passenger side, and possibly removing the undercar splash shield. You can see the IC core from the front grill, behind the passenger foglight. Do not remove the duct around the front of the IC as it directs cooling air to the core. A simple mod that may help you get better cooling from the stock IC or upgraded SMIC would be the S turbo wheelwell mod... it has a vent inside the wheelwell for hot air to escape. You can also add a small vent plate intended for HVAC use from a home improvement store, but the S model wheelwell plastic is $30- a real bargain.


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: The Official New Beetle/New Beetle Convertible D.I.Y./FAQ Thread (zeusenergy)*

Intake Air Temperature: 
Bolted to the intake manifold, right near the throttle body, is the Intake Air Temperature sensor (IAT.) This component provides the ECM with data on the incoming charge air temperature, and it allows the ECM to retard the timing in case the temperature is too high. This part can be removed from the manifold and cleaned with electrical contact cleaner like the MAF and throttle body, as it tends to cake up with oil. The IAT has its own map just like the other components in the 1.8T, and provides the ECM with resistance-based signal that the map is bound to.

Wastegate:
Behind the engine lives the turbo. It's bolted directly to the exhaust manifold from the top. The outlet for the Turbine side faces downwards and includes the wastegate outlet in its housing. A wastegate is a bypass for exhaust gas to go around the turbo's turbine wheel, effectively dropping the boost becuase less exhaust gas pressure makes it through the turbine. The internal wastegate (built-in) is a simple flap and is controlled by a return spring set to about 5 PSI (Here is where the limp-mode comes into play) and is operated by a short lever with a threaded rod for adjustment attached to the wastegate actuator (WGA). Some incorrectly call the WGA the wastegate, as it's responsible for operating it. The WGA is nothing more than a bellows-in-a-can, vaccuum diaphragm style, but operates under pressure rather than vac. It's attached with a small line directly to the ECM-controlled boost controller (N75). The N75 gets its boost pressure from the charge side (pressurized side) of the turbo plumbing. 

Hoses and Connections:
The turbo's compressor side plumbing is much more complex and interesting. The hot side of the air path is called the charge side. This is before the intercooler. The area after the intercooler is called the cold side of the air path. One main pipe is most important in function in the 1.8T. We call this pipe the charge Pipe, and it's obvious once you remove the engine plastic cover as it is horizontal and follows the back of the valve cover, wrapped in heat insulation. The outlet of the turbo begins the charge pipe and it faces straight up, turns toward the passenger side, and then level to the ground for about 12 inches. This pipe also has two connections on it, the larger one has a hose attached about 14 inches long, molded to follow a path directly to the diverter valve (DV). The smaller one is for the N75 boost controller. The two "bungs" on the charge pipe simply branch off of it and are welded into the larger pipe, facing straight up. From here, the path of air goes through an intermediate pipe down to ground level. Then the path turns to follow the frame rail directly in front of the engine pulleys in the passenger wheelwell. This pipe is called the pancake pipe, due to its flattened appearance. Most large air leaks occur here, between the downturned intermediate pipe and pancake pipe. The connection in some cars is made with an unusual clamp setup that can dislodge under high boost or just wear and tear. a short hose connects the pancake pipe to the lower tank of the intercooler. from the cold side (top) of the intercooler, the air is directed to one more hose that connects to the throttle body.


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: The Official New Beetle/New Beetle Convertible D.I.Y./FAQ Thread (zeusenergy)*

Control Valves:
Diverter Valve (DV): The most discussed piece of the 1.8T by far. The DV sends pressurized air back to the area before the turbo, called the turbo intake pipe (TIP). The DV lives on the TIP and is shaped like a small can with one large line in its bottom (this is the connection into the TIP) and one on the side (attached to the molded hose connected to the charge pipe.) The DV also has a signal line which is a small vacuum style hose. This connects to the N249, which actuates the DV. Most important in the operation and design of the DV is the diaphragm, a small rubber boot inside the DV which forms two chambers. The top chamber attached to the small N249 line must be sealed other than the connection to N249. As vacuum draws the diaphragm to the top of the DV's upper chamber, it brings with it a large plunger at the bottom of the lower chamber, lifting the plunger's seal off the large bottom port. Now pressurized air can be diverted around the turbo compressor section, rather than build up in the charge pipe. The intention is to have two functions served: releasing excess pressure in the charge hoses and intercooler when the throttle valve closes under boost, and also as a failsafe in case of engine trouble or runaway boost from a broken wastegate control. If you drop the throttle during a high boost condition, the turbo is still spinning, and no longer has a way to go. This brings the pressure in all of the charge hoses, pipes, and intercooler to extreme levels- in some cases the pressure can exceed 30 PSI without any type of blow off valve (BOV) or DV. Hoses and clamps can blow up, welds can be compromised, and the compressor wheel itself (impeller) is put under tremendous strain under these conditions. This is one of the reasons why many older turbo cars had so many issues with reliability, among others. Some manufacturers use a BOV to relieve the excess pressure. These parts release the pressure to the outside environment and are not well suited to the closed nature of the 1.8T's design for airflow. Once the ECM reads the amount of air entering the engine by means of the MAF, it considers that volume of air to base its fuel curve map to mix the correct proportions of air and fuel. The ECM does not understand any escaping air from a BOV, and this will force the ECM to apply too much fuel for the actual amount of air that goes into the engine to be burned. The best thing to use on the 1.8T is a pure diverter even though some people have had luck with partial BOVs and full BOVs. 
Stock BOVs (Edit: ALL DVs are Recirculating BOVs, therefore ALL DVs can also be considered BOVs that don't blow off to outside air) are failure prone, because of the thin rubber diaphragm inside and simple plastic housing it. Anything higher than stock boost will definitely destroy the stock DV in a fast way. Some people say to "flip" the DV for better response, but this pressurizes the wrong side of the DV- the side with the spring and seal face. It will work but I don't recommend it. Under high boost and flipped operation the seal may crack and you may lose some boost in the process. Some of the replacement "upgraded" DVs may handle this configuration much better, and in fact some of them should be installed this way. 
If you have a loss of power and can't find the source by scanning, or just don't have access to a scanner, then pull the DV off the TIP and disconnect the other hoses. Push the bottom plunger up towards the small fitting at the top with a finger or soft object, and place another finger over the small fitting tight. Release the plunger- it shouldn't be able to seat itself all the way down. If it completely closes, or slowly closes up over several seconds, the DV is bad and needs to be replaced. The diaphragm inside is torn or the housing has broken its seals.
N249: A solenoid valve located on the bracket bolted to the valve cover. It's to the right of the vacuum reservoir. The N249 takes an electric current and creates a magnetic field, which draws a small plunger from one side of the valve to the other. This changes flow from one of the end ports of the valve to the other. A third common port connects directly to the DV top hose, and it sticks out of the side of the N249. The port closest to the common port is normally closed. It's connected to the vacuum reservoir, and from there the lines meet a one-way valve that only allows vacuum during idle and off-boost conditions to pass. The one-way valve attaches to the intake manifold as a source. The port closest to the electrical connector on the N249 attaches to either manifold source, or directly to the N75 supply line near the charge pipe. This allows boost to pressurize the DV top chamber and assist holding it closed during boosting. My NB has the N75 supply line tap. The APH has the intake manifold connection. The N249 can be used as a two-stage boost controller, as I have used one for. it just switches flow from one source to another. I obtained mine from a SAAB, but it's a bosch part similar to the ones in VAG applications. 
The N249 can be bypassed to have a direct connection to the intake manifold rather than any ECM control. It's very easy to do as all you need is a tee fitting just before the one way valve and run a hose from there to the top of the DV. This allows the DV to operate ONLY when you lift the throttle, or are running in vacuum. This may reduce the responsiveness of the boost, adding some lag due to the "open" nature of the DV under normal cruising situations. The turbo cannot build boost as quickly to get to the signal line of the DV when the DV is open, as some of the pressurised air is passing around the turbo compressor. Now once the pressure builds to the point of no vacuum in the intake manifold, the DV finally closes and the boost can build faster. I have found that turbo response is fairly reduced under higher RPMs and lags badly at low RPMs. This modification would be good for those who like a direct connection and less lines around the engine bay, with louder and more often blow-off sounds. The only drawback to running it stock is if the ECM decides to dump boost due to seeing too much boost that you have modified the car to run, but then the ECM can also do the same with the throttle plate or N75 anyway. If your N249 is failing you could bypass it temporarily, to bring back performance before replacing the part. N249's are fairly cheap online, well below $100. If you scan your car and find a "DV Mechanical failure" listed, and you have either bypassed the N249 or upgraded the DV, it's a normal indication that the ECM isn't seeing the pressure drop in the charge pipes as it would in stock condition. You won't get a CEL from this code, and no other performance or economy conditions will be affected. 
N75 Boost Control Solenoid: A solenoid valve mounted on the TIP similar to the DV, although much smaller in size. The N75 is about the same size as the N249, but it's lines are much larger. There are three connections just like the N249, but don't be fooled- the operation is totally different than what you might think. The N75 is pulsed very quickly from the ECM. The three connections are sometimes all connected, sometimes the input line is connected to the TIP, and the WGA is always connected to the input line. The way it works is called the duty cycle. This is the time the N75 is in the powered state. when the N75 is powered, it allows the pressure to release or "bleed" into the tip, bypassing the WGA since there is less resistance there than to the WGA with the return spring on the wastegate pushing back on it. This builds pressure since the WG is closed. When the N75 is not powered, the connection to the TIP is sealed off, and all pressure goes to the WGA, opening the wastegate. Now the pressure levels off and the duty cycle change to repeatedly open and close the N75 to hold the pressure the ECM chooses for the load and what it's programmed for. The N75 is almost never in a constant on condition for more than a split second, as the WGA does not need to be fully engaged for turbo control. Flash software changes this map for the duty cycle, allowing for more boost and more aggressive turbo control among other changes. 
A simple change to a manual boost controller (MBC) between the charge pipe line and WGA line allows you to choose the actual maximum boost for the turbo to run. But for this to work, a few basic considerations need to be explained. Under MBC control and part-throttle conditions, the maximum boost can be achieved which creates violent surges and bucks when you let off the gas, making it difficult to climb a small hill at a steady speed. Additionally, even if you stay under the maximum 14.5 or so PSI that the ECM will limp out at, an MBC at part throttle may limp out because the ECM is still seeing alot more boost than it requests from the now disconnected N75, and it will shut you down. If all you do is either floor it or idle along, than an MBC only would be fine- such as drag strip runs. The way I set mine up is to branch the charge pipe feed line going to the N75, and one goes into the MBC input while the other feeds the original N75. from the outputs of both devices, the N75 output goes into the normally open port of my N249-style solenoid while the normally closed port attaches to the output of the MBC. The common port of the N249-style solenoid connects to the WGA. A switch is mounted in my pedal stop to operate only at wide open throttle (WOT). That switch activates a relay which passes current to the solenoid, effectively giving me the set value of the MBC when I floor it. I also get the stock quality of the N75 during part throttle, and the reduced size ports in the solenoid and extra lines add up to an extra 2 PSI when the N75 is in use. So now I get 10 PSI until WOT, when I get the 14 PSI I set the MBC to. I added a red LED indicator to be sure the relay and switch are operating properly. Total cost: $30. 
The N75 has many versions and each one resists the ECM signal differently or passes air between the ports at different quanities. These can be tried out but at the price for one of these different versions and no guarantee of success, the best bet is to find someone with a spare to try out or buy a used one. You won't get much of a performance increase, instead you will get a different response from the car- sometimes good, sometimes not.


_Modified by zeusenergy at 7:37 AM 7-22-2008_


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: The Official New Beetle/New Beetle Convertible D.I.Y./FAQ Thread (zeusenergy)*

*SAI and Emissions Controls*
The secondary air injection (SAI) system is intended to reduce the time it takes to warm-up the catalytic converter. Catalysts or "CATs" contain a material that takes unburned gas from the exhaust and neutralizes some of the worse qualities by combusting or chemically changing the gas to reduce the smog emitted at the tailpipe. To pre-heat it, the SAI pumps air into the exhaust before the cat. this helps burn up some of the fuel in the exhuast and this heats up the cat quicker, plus less raw fuel exits the tailpipe. The SAI system is ECM controlled, and activates on cold startup. This makes the engine louder when you first start it. SAI activation lasts about 90 seconds or so, and turns off automatically. It may start back up once more after hitting idle when the engine is still cold. Other than that, SAI has no purpose except to clog the engine bay with pipes, wires, and hoses. Some VAG people who are hell-bent on ridding their engine bay of clutter will remove the entire system, and wire some resistors to make the ECM think the pump and system exist. This can be a real problem for those of us that need to be passed for inspection by an OBD-II test. There is no true way to pass the OBD-II inspection after deleting the SAI unless you can get progamming for the ECM that includes SAI deletion. This is an option ON TOP OF the average chip flash, so be sure the software vendor knows this is a requirement if you want to remove the SAI.
SAI is called "secondary" air injection because the primary method is the pumping of the engine itself. This secondary mode only provides what the engine cannot during rich startup conditions: additional air. The SAI consists of the SAI pump (SAIP), N112 solenoid valve, combi valve, and of course a fresh, filtered air source. It provides a small volume of air to the area behind the exhaust valves to help heat up the catalyst earlier, and make cold emissions better. The N112 is energized which opens the Combi valve attached to the head via vacuum sourced from the vacuum reservoir. The SAIP (SAI pump) is also energized at this time and begins pumping air into the Combi valve, which passes to the exhaust stream. 
SAIP: Located under the intake manifold, laying on it's side and bolted to a bracket, is the SAIP. It's only about 6" in diameter and has a single two wire connector plugged into it. The SAIP on our cars may not have the rivets as in other VAG cars such as the GTI's, mine looks different than what I have seen online. you may see a "fix" listed for MK4's but I think it might not work. The pump may be different. There are two hoses attached to the SAIP. The inlet hose goes into the air filter box (airbox) and the other is the pressurized outlet, which connects to the combi valve. These hoses are thin plastic, and easily break especially in cold weather. the connectors are pinch-style, and only require your hands for removal. The input line could be replaced with a small filter right o the pump itself, while plugging the hole up on the airbox. The outlet line could be refitted with a normal rubber hose. Reason why I am saying this is the price for the hoses. When you see the pricetags you will also look for alternatives! To remove the pump entirely, a resistor can be placed with each side contacting each wire on the original connector. See VWVortex.com forums for more info on SAIP removal and resistor values by Savwko.
N112: This part is identical to the N249 with one exception: the normally open port is capped off from the factory, making it a simple on/off valve rather than a switch to go between two sources. It's a small solenoid valve under the engine cover, to the left of the air bladder assembly over the spark plugs. 
Combi Valve: A vacuum operated valve that allows flow from the SAIP to reach the backs of the exhaust ports. It's bolted to the back of the cylinder head near the upper radiator hose flange. It's round at the top where the N112 source line comes in. Removal of the entire SAI requires a blockoff plate to go where the combi bolts into the engine.
N80: a regulation valve that takes vented gas fumes from the carbon canister and redirects it into the intake stream to be burned in the engine rather than be released into the atmosphere. The N80 on the NB is located in the passenger side Front wheelwell! MK4's have engine bay mounted N80's. To access it requires removing passenger front wheel and wheelwell plastic. The carbon canister lives in the REAR wheelwell and requires removing the plastic there. It takes all overflow gases from the tank and condenses them back into fuel. The gases that do not condense or pressure that builds can be released by the N80 into the engine for burning.
Added note: The N112 and N249 live UNDER the intake manifold on MK4 applications. Only the vacuum reservoir is on top of the MK4 cars. MK4's also do not have the small vacuum source line coming from the top of the intake manifold- instead, they have a source line coming from the bottom of the manifold. There is a bracket on top of the valve cover of the NB 1.8T that contains all three parts: N112, N249, and vacuum reservoir and ALL THREE are behind a one way valve to prevent boost from getting to these components, except for the normally open port on the N249. Also, the DV signal line on MK4's is a metal pipe with vac lines on either end, while the NB just has a rubber line going right to the N249. we lucked out with this design, as N249 and N112 deletions are very easy to do on our cars, and the parts are easy to replace as well. 




_Modified by zeusenergy at 1:07 PM 7-22-2008_


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: The Official New Beetle/New Beetle Convertible D.I.Y./FAQ Thread (zeusenergy)*

*Intake and Exhaust System*
The intake system of the 1.8T is very simple on MK4 and New Beetles. The heart of the system is the turbo intake pipe (TIP.) This hose is restrictive and can be replaced for a molded silicone hose that has a smoother inner wall and better flow due to increased interior diameter and less sharp curves. There are also replacement ends for where the turbo intake connection is, made from metal like the original part, but you would still be stuck with a mostly restrictive hose attached. The best solution is the full replacement part which takes the original two piece design and makes it a single free-flowing part. 
From the beginning of the NB intake tract, you have the ambient air itself. It enters a duct in the driver side wheelwell and passes to the "snowbox," which is directly under the driver side headlight assembly. Some people remove this box, and to do so requires removing the driver side front wheel and wheelwell plastic. The snowbox exists to help the intake air going to the filter to be free from water or snow. It acts as a baffle and also an intake muffler to help quiet the engine's intake noise. From there, a small plastic pipe runs beside the battery and enters the airbox on the driver's side. Up to this point, all of the intake pieces are completely useless unless you live in torrential blizzards every day, or can't stand a loud engine. I pulled just the pipe that goes under and beside the battery, this disconnects the snowbox and adds some power and noise. For even more power and noise, you can pull off the lower part of the airbox and cut holes in it leaving the mounting points and sealing edge intact (Swiss mod). This gives the airbox maximum flow and sound. You can also remove the airbox entirely and replace it with a cone filter. At that point, you also need a small filter to attach to the SAIP intake hose or pump itself. A bracket to hold the cone filter steady is a good idea as well. 
From the airbox, the MAF is bolted directly to it, and from there the TIP clamps onto the MAF. It's that simple. Two phillips screws attach the top of the airbox, and along with the SAI hose and MAF to TIP clamp and MAF wire connection, the upper airbox comes right out. This is how a filter change is done. 
Another method of replacing the stock intake is called a CAI (Cold-Air Induction/Intake.) These systems take a duct and place it directly in the airflow of the car to force air into the intake (RAM) or place the intake opening outside of the engine bay to prevent hot air from entering the intake stream. Either system does very little to help the performance of the car, especially since the turbo will raise the incoming air temps up to 200+ F anyway. The additional heat from the engine bay isn't all that important on a turbo car as it would be on a Normally Aspirated (NA, or non-turbo car.) Another choice would be a hybrid system with a free flowing filter and a duct aimed at it from the lower bumper area, so at lower speeds and RPMs you get full flow, and higher speeds you get a forced system. These setups are custom and should be designed to have a spring flap that closes once the air front ahead of the car gets high enough to force it closed. This will make it more effective. You could also make the flap electrically driven so that once the car gets out of first gear, it would engage the RAM air duct. be aware that all replacement air intake systems will do little for performance when compared to a simple swiss mod. the stock airbox has plenty of flow for the stock engine and turbo. After BT or extreme K03/K04 tune you should upgrade.
The exhaust system on the 1.8T NB is exactly the same as the MK4 Golf. The only thing you need to keep in mind is that the S model NB has dual outlets in the bumper, while the AWV engine cars have downturned tips. The turbo outlet on the turbine side is a four-bolt affair, and it's bolted to the downpipe. A flexible section is built into the downpipe right after the flange to the turbo. From there, the first O2 sensor is fitted, and then the cat is built into the downpipe right after. The second O2 lives right after the cat, and then the downpipe ends abruptly. A collared pipe is welded into each end of the resonator for easy removal. This section can be removed and replaced with a simple straight pipe for added sound here. The rest of the exhaust is one piece and includes the pipe the resonator attaches to which travels under the rear suspension beam as it was installed by the factory that way. To remove the rear pipes and muffler, you need to cut the pipe off the rear muffler and this one of the reasons most people go for performance replacements- the stock parts cost about as much anyway, and the replacements are generally better quality and sound, plus offer a small bump in power to boot. You can get about 20 HP out of a replacement turbo-back exhaust, including a replacement downpipe. There are cheap ebay downpipes that cost about $100, and many users are reporting great success with them. The only drawback is lack of catalyst installed, but you can space out the rear O2 sensor with a spark plug arrestor adapter to reduce the amount of gases it sees, effectively getting rid of the CEL that results from no cat. Doing this not only effects the environment in a negative way, it's comnpletely illegal by federal law to remove a cat even if your state does not check for one. You can be fined for removing one. With that disclaimer, and the fact that the cat on the 1.8T isn't very restrictive at all, it may be best to refit the new downpipe with the original cat on the old downpipe. The cat is flared at both ends, so it can be cut right at the diameter of the new downpipe and placed in there, welded in, and set up correctly. There are two camps out there: one that believes you should need only a 2.5" diameter system all the way back, and another that claims you should get a 3" just to be sure, and reduce the need for upgrading in the future should you decide to go BT. In all cases, you know what kind of power you want to make, so if you think less than 300 HP is enough, then go for the 2.5- it's plenty! Anything over 300 HP you can't even keep the front wheels from spinning in the first three gears anyway, so just put a good 3" downpipe on that car and throw away the rest of the system. You're most likely going to drag race the car anyway! 
Any exhaust replacement or removal will NOT effect the engine's back pressure- that is accomplished by the turbo anyway. You can run a turbo dump pipe right off the flange and it will be the maximum effective exhaust possible. 

*Conclusion*
The mentioned components and parts are only a percentage of the 1.8T's technical data and makeup, but should be enough for most people to understand how their cars function and how things are connected. For more information, please visit:
vwvortex.com and go to forums, 1.8T technical.
vwvortex.com and go to forums, New Beetle cars
newbeetle.com and go to either 1.8T engine forums or technical modifications.
Please use the search features on both sites before posing questions that have been answered one million times! The people on both of these sites are great resources and have taught many people about most of the subject matter I am writing about... including me! Have fun and happy fixing or modding.


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## black turbo (Dec 5, 2007)

*Re: The Official New Beetle/New Beetle Convertible D.I.Y./FAQ Thread (zeusenergy)*

Hi, I have the same car as you.I also would like to do what you did with the button under peddle could you e-mail me a diagram of how you set it up and what parts I would need?Keep in mind I'm not a macanic thanks. Also what chip are you going to use ?I talked to a guy who said that you can have a european program put on that gives about 190 HP?


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: The Official New Beetle/New Beetle Convertible D.I.Y./FAQ Thread (black turbo)*

Click on my name and send me an IM with your email addy. I don't like posting those on forums.... it's bad news! I won't be able to respond right away, as you only see the IM's when you log back in. 
As for the chip, I decided to forget all about it. I have enough power right now (more than a 180 HP as I can pull away from a buddy's 180 HP 2003 Jetta 1.8T no problem... we ran neck to neck when I set my MBC at 11 PSI! It's set to 14 PSI right now)
I'll wait for a big turbo install in a couple years, and do exhaust and other small things until then. So I will run close to 200 HP keeping under 15 PSI with breathing mods. I want more than the stock turbo can deliver.... 350 HP would be nice


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## black turbo (Dec 5, 2007)

*Re: The Official New Beetle/New Beetle Convertible D.I.Y./FAQ Thread (zeusenergy)*

I just sent you im thanks


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## black turbo (Dec 5, 2007)

*Re: The Official New Beetle/New Beetle Convertible D.I.Y./FAQ Thread (zeusenergy)*

my check engine light just came on today do you know anything about that?


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: The Official New Beetle/New Beetle Convertible D.I.Y./FAQ Thread (black turbo)*

I'll get back to you shortly via email. Keep this thread on topic!


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## black turbo (Dec 5, 2007)

*Re: The Official New Beetle/New Beetle Convertible D.I.Y./FAQ Thread (zeusenergy)*

that sounds good to me for now also. around 180 hp is good because my car holds its own now,at 150!hung with 5 series bmw.I think vw did under rate hp.


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## BeauDennis (Dec 26, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Does anyone know where i could get a cheap good looking front lip? Im a little low on cash but im getting tired of the stock look.


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## antonym (Apr 6, 2007)

*Re: The Official New Beetle/New Beetle Convertible D.I.Y./FAQ Thread (The Ninja)*

DIY / "How To" Fix: Car blows only hot air or temperature control does not work. http://newbeetle.org/forums/sh...89669


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## 99.5 (Apr 26, 2005)

*>>>DIY New Beetle seat removal/install (also for mk4 jetta/gti/golf<<<*

*>>>DIY New Beetle seat removal/install (also for mk4 jetta/gti/golf)<<<*
















If any of the pics go down, send me a PM and I’ll fix them http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
****DISCLAIMER:* As with all DIYs, I am not responsible if something goes wrong. Attempt at your own risk.***
*DIFFICULTLY:* Not very difficult at all. If you can change your car’s oil, I believe you can do this fairly easily. PLEASE make sure you read through this entire DIY before attempting. If you have any questions, feel free to send me a PM and I’d be happy to help out.
*TOOLS:* REQUIRED: 10 MM socket, 13 MM socket, ratchet, 8 MM allen wrench, Philips head screw driver, large flathead screwdriver, small flathead screwdriver, mallet or hammer. RECOMMENDED: solder, soldering iron/gun, electrical tape (Note: These are only recommended if you have to swap airbag connectors).
*TIME:* Took me 2 hours from start to finish. Mind you this was my first time doing this and was also taking lots of pictures as I know DIYs are much easier to follow with pictures!
*NOTE (1 of 2):* I went from leather to cloth as my girlfriend really didn’t like cold seats during winter. The slider on the leather seats had studs with a 13mm nut. The cloth seats needed to have a bolt threaded, so if this is the case for you, save yourself the headache and make sure to run down to your local hardware store and purchase 4 nuts or bolts, depending on your application.
Leather 2001 New Beetle GLS sliding bracket:








Cloth 2001 New Beetle GLS sliding bracket:









*NOTE (2 of 2):* The airbag connector was different from the leather and cloth seats. Even though both sets of seats are from a 2001 GLS New Beetle, the connections were different. Be prepared to cut and solder or crimp the original connection to the new seats. Note: This was only an issue on the driver side.
Leather 2001 New Beetle GLS driver side airbag connections:








Cloth 2001 New Beetle GLS driver side airbag connections:








STEP 1: Read Note 1 and clarify this before beginning. You don’t want to have the seats out and then find out you can’t continue because the bolt/nut application is different!
STEP 2: Begin by popping your trunk so you can have a little bit more head room.








STEP 3: Pop your hood and pull the POSITIVE lead off the battery. Loosen both nuts with a 10 MM socket and wrap the lead with a towel and place away from battery. (Note: Make sure you have your radio code ready if applicable!)








STEP 4: We are going to start by removing the REAR seat first (Note: I believe the airbags can still deploy up to 15 minutes after the car has lost power from the battery. Whatever the time is, let’s not touch the seats that deal airbags first). Pull the bench up and fold it towards the front of the car. If you look, it is simply held in by two hooks. To get this out, you need to push the clip towards the other. If you take the rubber mallet or a flathead and pry or smack it, it’ll come out very easily. Once one side is out, the other side should wiggle out easily. Remove the bench from the car.
































STEP 4: We will now remove the backrest of the rear seats by folding down the seat flat. (Note: Remove the headrests first!) If you look towards the center/driver side, there is a zipper. Open up the zipper and you will notice a metal bracket with 2 8 MM allen bolts. Undo these bolts.

__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content









STEP 5: Take a look at the corner of the seats. The seat pivots on a metal clip. Take a large flat head and push the clip back towards the rear of the car. As you are doing this, pull the seat up. Do this for the other side as well. Once both are out, pull the passenger side of the rear seat up and out towards the front of the car. Then guide the rest of the seat out, making sure the metal bracket stays in the car. (Note: Be careful not to scrape your interior plastics while doing this!)








































STEP 6: Let’s start with the driver side seat. Push the seat to the farthest rear setting. There are two 13 MM nuts (or bolts depending on your application. Remember how I mentioned this at the very beginning? Remember how you are prepared for this step already? Remember how this will help save you a ton of headaches later?) Remove both nuts (or bolts).








STEP 7: Slide the seat the very forward position and pull the side latch as if you were letting people into the back. Using a small flathead screw driver, remove the two plastic circular covers at the base where the seats slide on their bracket. Remove both Philips head screws and remove the plastic pieces. (Note: Make sure the seat is all the way up so that it’s easier to remove the covers and not snap them! We are removing these so the seats can fall out of their sliding bracket!)








































STEP 8: Lock the seat back down and slide it all the way back. It should fall right out of the bracket. Tip the entire seat back and take a look underneath. There are 3 connectors/clips under here. Two connectors for the airbag and one white plastic clip that holds the harness in place so it doesn’t get tangled while you are sliding your seat back and forth. Unclip these and remove the seat by tipping it sideways. (Note: Be very careful as you remove the seat as to not scratch any interior pieces!)































STEP 9: The passenger side is exactly the same as the driver side, except there are only 2 connectors: One airbag connector and one plastic clip that holds the harness in place.








































STEP 10: Take a look at the driver side airbag connectors on the new seat. If they are different from the original connectors, get your wire stripper and soldering iron/gun ready. I HIGHLY recommend you solder these connections. If yours are the same, skip Step 11.
STEP 11: Start by removing the 2 Philips head screws that hold the connectors to a bracket. Cut the wires and solder (or crimp) the original connectors to the new seats’ connectors. Wrap each wire in electrical tape or heat shrink. Then wrap both with electrical tape. Place the connectors back into the bracket and redo the Philips head screws. You’re ready to put the driver side seat back in!
















STEP 12: Reinstall in reverse order starting with the back seat rest. Place the seat rest loosely on the floorboard where the rear seat cushion goes. Wrap the center pivot bar with the seat cloth. Reinsert the seat by pushing the driver side in first, followed by the passenger side of the seat rest (just like how it was removed). Center the seat rest above the metal retaining clips on the left and right side. Push both sides down until they click back in. If they don’t click, use the large flathead screw driver to help it out a bit. Bolt up the bracket with the two 8 MM allen bolts and zip up the cover. Fold the seat rest back up and lock it into place.
































STEP 13: Now bring in the rear seat cushion and hook the passenger side in. This will go in fairly easily. Hit it with the mallet to help seat it fully. Now, for the driver side clip, you will need to use your large flathead screw driver and place it in between the hook and pull it towards the other clip. Slide it into the retaining pocket. Now fold the seat cushion and sit on it to help seat it. Congrats! You’ve got your new rear seats in! Throw on your headrests while you’re admiring them!
































STEP 14: Make sure that both the driver side and passenger side seat sliders are pulled all the way to the front before reinstallation of your new seats! If not, just pull the handle and grab the slider and pull all the way up to the front of the seat.
STEP 15: Bringing in the driver side seat. Tip it in the same way you brought it out. Attach both airbag clips and the plastic retaining clip for the harness (Note: Make sure these clip in ALL the way. Give a little tug to make sure they won’t fall out and are fully clipped in!).  The white plastic retaining clip for the harness was being an absolute pain in the butt and wouldn’t fit, so I zip-tied it down.
STEP 16: Tip the chair up and place it towards the rear. Slide the seat forward as the rear wheels fall back into the guide bracket. Pull the seat all the way forward and rebolt with either the original nut (or bolt depending on your application) the 13 MM nut (or bolt). Slide the seat all the way forward and tip up. Replace the plastic covers, replace Philips head screws back in and cover them up with the small plastic covers.
























STEP 17: Passenger side seat: Same as step 15 and 16 except there are only 2 connectors (one airbag and one plastic harness retaining clip)
















STEP 18: Take a deep breath and bolt back up the 10 MM nuts for the positive leads on the battery.








STEP 19: I’m not 100% sure if this is necessary, but it doesn’t hurt! Turn the key to the on position and let the throttle adapt. Leave it for 3 minutes and then start up the car. Check and see if your airbag light comes on or not (which is shouldn’t because remember how we tugged on the connections and made SURE they were tight?). CONGRATS! You are completely done! Now put your old seats up for sale so someone else can install them and follow this DIY


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## Tdotdub (Nov 14, 2008)

*Re: >>>DIY New Beetle seat removal/install (also for mk4 jetta/gti/golf<<< (99.5)*

Okay guys I need help!!! I got my check engine light on and its becasue I got a glow plug circuit malfunction code or some jazz like that. But I checked all the glow plugs work and they where replaced not so long ago. Also the wire harness was replaced not to long ago. And on a cold day I pulled off the wire harness and checked it with a test light to see if the glow plugs work and it works. SO than it should not be the relays. Than that gets me thinking everything works well and it starts well even on cold days. But if I clear the code than the light will be on in 2 starts (or less). So than it is not intermittent like the code also says. Rather its there all the time. But the light bugs me becasue than I don't know when an actual problem comes out. And there is no way I would bypass the light or take the bulb out becasue its there for a reason. So i'm going







and its starting to make me go


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: >>>DIY New Beetle seat removal/install (Tdotdub)*

this question should be posed in the diesel forum.


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## Tdotdub (Nov 14, 2008)

*Re: >>>DIY New Beetle seat removal/install (zeusenergy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_this question should be posed in the diesel forum.

Guess your right.. Even tho my beetle is a tdi there is not a whole lot. So I am better asking it there.. Never the less if any one else can tell me what they think it would be great. Thanks


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## oxytocinrush (Jan 27, 2009)

*Replace Timing Chain & Water Pump on my 1996 VW Beetle - Cost Question*

Hello, I recently moved to Mesa, AZ and was told that I needed to change my timing belt and water pump, and was quoted a cost of $1,200.00 to do the job. Does this sound like a fair price? I don't think so. If not, could you recommend a reputable, and reasonably priced mechanic in my area? Thank you kindly. Donna
Sorry if I'm posting this in the wrong place ... this is the first time I've tried to use this site and it's kind of confusing to me.
I appreciate any help you can offer.







Donna


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## Tdotdub (Nov 14, 2008)

*Re: Replace Timing Chain & Water Pump on my 1996 VW Beetle - Cost Question (oxytocinrush)*


_Quote, originally posted by *oxytocinrush* »_Hello, I recently moved to Mesa, AZ and was told that I needed to change my timing belt and water pump, and was quoted a cost of $1,200.00 to do the job. Does this sound like a fair price? I don't think so. If not, could you recommend a reputable, and reasonably priced mechanic in my area? Thank you kindly. Donna
Sorry if I'm posting this in the wrong place ... this is the first time I've tried to use this site and it's kind of confusing to me.
I appreciate any help you can offer.







Donna

I asume this is your first time you need to change your T belt.. Cuz the price sounds decent. Reasons are on the beetle its alot harder to do it than on a golf or Jetta even though its the same engine but there is just less space. You did post in the wrong section. This should have a new topic in the new beetle fourms. And make sure the guy who will do your T-belt will replace EVERYTHING that the T-belt rolls on.. Meaning T belt, tensioners, water pump, rollers.... If not than do not do it. The reason is. Like you might not think thr roller is an important part but it was only designed for one use and if you don't replace it and if it sezies than it will cut your T-belt and the pistons will smash your cylinder head.. IN short you need an engine rebuild OR used engine... So just make sure about that.


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## waxdipper (Aug 5, 2006)

*Re: dash cleaning / interior air filter removal (OLD GHOST)*

is there a link to get the pics for the cabin air filter removal for an 04 beetle. Ide hate to break the plastic tabs by pusing or pulling a panel incorrectly


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## Blugg2 (Mar 24, 2009)

*Re: dash cleaning / interior air filter removal (waxdipper)*


_Quote »_
is there a link to get the pics for the cabin air filter removal for an 04 beetle. Ide hate to break the plastic tabs by pusing or pulling a panel incorrectly


Pushing or pulling a panel incorrectly ? Pull the panel up








Unscrew the torx screws take that panel off, jiggle it








Replace cabin filter. Reverse procedure, i've been into that gap 9 or 10 times. Never broken a clip. 
Good Luck


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## vdubbed81 (Dec 14, 2000)

*Re: dash cleaning / interior air filter removal (Blugg2)*

what is the big bump in the middle of the dash on new beetle convertibles? I was told it was an antenna but then I was also told that the antenna runs up the windshield in thin metal strips. Clarification please?


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: dash cleaning / interior air filter removal (vdubbed81)*

If your dash looks like the pic below (and it should) then it's the same as all the rest of them (tintop too, this is mine.)
There is no antenna in the dash under the center panels. It's pretty much just for looks, unless you have something else attached like XM antenna or something added to it. The panel in the middle closest to the windshield glass just pushes right off toward the windshield to remove.


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## vdubbed81 (Dec 14, 2000)

*Re: dash cleaning / interior air filter removal (zeusenergy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_If your dash looks like the pic below (and it should) then it's the same as all the rest of them (tintop too, this is mine.)
There is no antenna in the dash under the center panels. It's pretty much just for looks, unless you have something else attached like XM antenna or something added to it. The panel in the middle closest to the windshield glass just pushes right off toward the windshield to remove.









sorry, should have been a little more specific. I'm talking about an 09 vert'. I think it's the satellite antenna, but haven't been able to confirm that yet.


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: dash cleaning / interior air filter removal (vdubbed81)*

It prolly is the sat antenna then.


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## Beltaine (Nov 14, 2008)

*FV-QR*

It is.
I know because mine is sitting in my closet now since I put a gauge pod in.


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## weirdajs (Sep 15, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Beltaine)*

Thanks for the removal of the seats http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Now I need time to do it and clean them.


_Modified by weirdajs at 10:04 AM 7-14-2009_


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## TRIBULL70 (Sep 3, 2007)

drivers side headlight removal for bulb replacement on a 2000 beetle tdi


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## DaveBenton (Jan 31, 2011)

*Temp sensor connector*

I've successfully replaced the temperature sensor (1.9 TDI), but can't get the connector off the old sensor. I've tried every way that I can see to release it. Any tricks? I'm afraid that I'm going to damage the wires. There's not much to get a grip on down there!


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## BoostDuval904 (Mar 6, 2009)

i have an 04 gli 1.8t and my car is throwing a epc engine code and my car will not move. i have replaced the throttle body both o2 sensors and the accelerator pedal position sensor this is the copy of the codes i threw...... 


VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.1
Sunday, 31 July 2011, 16:10:06:39063
Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 032 RN
Component and/or Version: 1.8L R4/5VT G07 0001
Software Coding: 07510
Work Shop Code: WSC 00000
VCID: 7B89EC787AEB
Additional Info: 3VWSE69M84M114797 VWZ7Z0D9319931
6 Faults Found:
18039 - Accelerator Position Sensor (G79): Signal too High
P1631 - 35-00 - -
18042 - Accelerator Position Sensor 2 (G185): Signal too High
P1634 - 35-00 - -
16514 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1: Malfunction in Circuit
P0130 - 35-00 - -
16522 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S2: Signal too High
P0138 - 35-00 - -
17972 - Throttle Actuator (J338): Under-Voltage during Basic Setting
P1564 - 35-00 - -
17840 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112): Open Circuit
P1432 - 35-00 - -


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## BoostDuval904 (Mar 6, 2009)

if anyone can help id be much appreciative. need to get my car back up and running so i can continue on with my enlistment process with the army.


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## nuff said (Nov 22, 2011)

*turbo inlet hose install*

Hello,I am considering replacing my turbo inlet hose for a silicone one on a 1.8t new beetle.After 
searching the net for hours for pics for a diy job,I could find nothing.Everything where this job was shown formerly,has been removed.I noticed you at one time had this info.Do you still have pics showing the process for replacement of this hose?Could you send to me?Or email at 
[email protected] or send me instructions under my vortex name which is Nuff Said.
Thanks.....


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