# Torque Specs Axle Triple Square CV to Trans Bolts?



## Arnolds64 (Nov 13, 2009)

Inner CV joint came loose on me. Used Locktite Blue and Torque them to 30ft pounds. Well I have looked high and low on all the TT Forums for the 6 Triple Square bolt torque specs to make sure and I thought what I used was right. These are the inner axle CV bolts to the trans. Seems to me it was 40nm or 30 ft lbs. One thing I noticed is how they are not very tight in the CV slot or have a lot of play in the holes of the inner CV. Went to a hardware store and picked up some "Black" Grade 8 M10 50mm 1.50 pitch Allen type Bolts. With them the non threaded part is thicker and therefore almost no play in the the holes. This I think is the reason for the stock ones coming loose? 

I have bought axles from Raxles.com before and went to their site and they had an install for VW Mk4 which are the same? Right? They send out replacement bolts that are the same type I bought. They say 50 ft lbs. They do have some special Lock washers >>> Here is the Link >> 
http://www.raxles.com/volkswagen_mk4_axle_installation.aspx

Blue Locktite too? Especially if I don't have the Locking washers? 50ft lbs? What do you guys think?


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## 96AAAjetta (Jul 7, 2008)

Sounds like a plan if you want to use a torque wrench. I used my Makita electric impact the second time around, and tightened the sh!t out of them. I had both sides come out on me when i put my car back together the first time cause i didnt use loc-tite, and that sucked really, really hard. Plenty of torque plus lots of loc-tite should do you fine.


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

Arnolds64 said:


> Blue Locktite too? Especially if I don't have the Locking washers? 50ft lbs? What do you guys think?


Use the Red Loctite. Blue Loctite is for small components that may be occasionally disassembled. usually non-critical parts.

Red Loctite is for critical fasteners that you really don't want to come loose. Things like Suspension bolts, Axle CV bolts, Brake caliper mounting bolts, Flywheel bolts, etc.


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

Unless there's gear oil or motor oil leaking onto the triple square bolts, I've never had a reason to use loctite. Granted, the TT is the most powerful car I've owned with these bolts, but I tighten them all a 1st time, then go around the circle a 2nd and a 3rd time to be sure. I've had to use heat on bolts that I previously loctited (loctitened?), and I don't want to use heat near the inner CV boot or the drive flange.


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

lite1979 said:


> Unless there's gear oil or motor oil leaking onto the triple square bolts, I've never had a reason to use loctite. Granted, the TT is the most powerful car I've owned with these bolts, but I tighten them all a 1st time, then go around the circle a 2nd and a 3rd time to be sure. I've had to use heat on bolts that I previously loctited (loctitened?), and I don't want to use heat near the inner CV boot or the drive flange.


You only need one or two drops of Loctite, Red or Blue. I've never had to use heat to remove *any* Red Loctited bolt...no matter the size of the fastener. 

Only time you need heat is if you apply a large amount to the threads. And then yes, they can be a SOB to remove. The factory instructions of the amount to apply are meant to *Permanently* lock a fastener in place. But you usually don't have to apply that much. One or two drops of Red will secure a fastener much better than Blue Loctite, while still enabling you to remove the fastener without applying heat. 

If you Road Race or Track Day...you'll find a good reason to use Red Loctite. Constant harmonic vibrations from High RPM use will work just about ANYTHING loose. That include Driveshaft bolts, half-shaft bolts, Flywheel Bolts, alternator bolts and just about any ancillary part attached to the engine or drive train.

I run Hillclimbs...and I really don't want ANYTHING coming loose at 120 mph with 200 ft Cliff drops and Fir Trees lining the road


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

ive had the bolts come loose on me because there is always axle grease on them...

i changed them all out to standard cap screws and really pounded them in with an impact. never loose since. torque specs failed me in past, but again, i find it impossible to NOT get grease on them.

edit: if you are that worried, i think driveshaft will covert them into a splined input shaft like a honda. they cant come out unless you seperate the knuckle from the control arm.


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