# Oil Drain Plug



## Ichabod0525 (Feb 11, 2018)

Looking for an alternative *M14-1.50* oil drain plug for a 2014 2.5l CBUA engine. Something that doesn't require a new plug at each change because of the captured washer. I've tossed a few new plugs out (from reputable parts suppliers) simply because the threads were sketchy and the washers worse. Maybe a nice stainless plug using soft copper washers that are easily bought or other reasonable solution.


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## ChefroA6 (Dec 3, 2020)

I did 4 oil changes on my CBTA engine since I bought it and reused the plug without problems...It doesn't leak even the slightest trickle.
With the Passat before I had one of those magnetic plugs from ECS and purchased somewhere near 25 copper washers (at the time they were on sale for like 10 cents each), sealed individually in plastic...I still have the darn things in the garage just sitting. Never used more than two... just WASTED money - the plug itself though was about $ 15 IIRC. Never got any metal shavings captured either...
Of course it is your choice as a responsible owner to go "by the book" and replace the plug every time as "recommended".


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## ChefroA6 (Dec 3, 2020)

That was quick:
Have you checked ECS Tuning, or you buy your plugs from the dealership?


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## Leirk (Oct 1, 2020)

How about a Fumoto drain valve? Put one on my Jetta at first oil change. Now at 185k miles. Not a single problem. Right @ $30.


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## Ichabod0525 (Feb 11, 2018)

ChefroA6 said:


> That was quick:
> Have you checked ECS Tuning, or you buy your plugs from the dealership?


That other three letter supplier of Volkswagen parts on line.


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## ChefroA6 (Dec 3, 2020)

I always look up stuff quicker on ECS. I do buy quite a bit of stuff at FCP as well.
Matter of fact I do like to spread the business around, including AutohausAZ and RockAuto in the equation. For fluids is Blau...


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## kgw (May 1, 2008)

The factory drain plugs are a way better way to prevent oil drips than any of the others, trust me 😎


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## Boscosz28 (Nov 25, 2008)

Leirk said:


> How about a Fumoto drain valve? Put one on my Jetta at first oil change. Now at 185k miles. Not a single problem. Right @ $30.


Had one on my Cummins truck. I'll second this. Quite handy and no more over-torqueing from the grease monkeys... My GLI has a repair plug in right now because the one time I didnt have time to change the oil myself, they stripped it....


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## Boomer Guy (Mar 26, 2021)

Boscosz28 said:


> Had one on my Cummins truck. I'll second this. Quite handy and no more over-torqueing from the grease monkeys... My GLI has a repair plug in right now because the one time I didnt have time to change the oil myself, they stripped it....


I had one on all of my cars and trucks which worked great. However, the few times that I would have the garage change the oil because of the extremely cold weather (I change oil in my driveway.), they would always try to remove it, instead of turning the ball valve handle. Then there was the time I was having my mechanic change the motor mounts on my Miata and the ball valve handle got caught on an engine part as it was being lifted just a little, and oil started coming. I had the mechanic stop everything until I could reach in and close it. In all cases, Murphy's Law was involved. The Fumoto drain valve itself was not the problem. I eventually stopped using them as I traded vehicles. 
As far as the original drain plug is concerned, any generic one will work, but it is critical to use the aluminum crush washer. Honda crush washers work perfectly and since I own two Honda cars, I get mine by the pack from Amazon at a fraction of the price and change them at each oil change. Cheap insurance. Stripped threads in a drain pan can be a nightmare.


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## VWAD0B (Oct 20, 2021)

I usually use a copper washer on drain plugs. Use a propane torch to re-anneal the washer before reusing.


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## barrier12 (Feb 1, 2009)

Agree with Boomer guy, some(most?) fast lube "mechanics" do not know what in front of them and try to remove it. And if you have a security lock(round piece of wire which you need to remove in order to turn the lever, that's another THING.


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## Butcher (Jan 31, 2001)

Use aluminum since there is no pressure behind the plug. Use copper if there is [ie fuel deliver]. 

Aluminum crushes and fills voids easier and with less torque. You only need enough torque on the plug to prevent it from coming off. Too much torque just puts a lot of stress on the threads of the pan/plug. One day, you will find out why you should not over torque a plug. 

The seal is what keeps the oil in and aluminum just works so much better.


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## Ichabod0525 (Feb 11, 2018)

Update: Found this on *BITOG*. Haven't tried them yet but apparently there are washers available. I'd assume snip off the old and use one of these in its place. Two flavors as well.
*Drain plug & washers*
N 908 132 02 - M14x1.5x22 drain plug w/sealing ring (the parts catalog listing)
N 013 849 2 - M14x20 soft annealed copper sealing ring (used on oil lines and various other applications)
N 013 849 5 - M14x20 soft annealed aluminum sealing ring (used on oil lines and various other applications).


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