# eBay LED DRL/Turning Signal - Install and Pics



## baye (May 6, 2009)

First, a big thanks goes to Ampiler for his advice. Probably wouldn't have done this without his posts and suggestions. :beer:

Some of you may have seen this already, but I figure I'll move everything into a separate thread so they're not in bits and pieces all over the forum. This post is about the LED DRL/turning signal set available on eBay (http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=221128437357#ht_2082wt_879). I understand there may be several versions of these LED sets around, so anybody who's interested should double check with the eBay seller _before_ placing an order.

The actual product looks like this:








Each housing comes with a stock plug that connects directly into the stock turning signal harness, as well as a short wire used to power the LED DRLs.

The package looked like this when I received it:








The package comes with just the two housings + a small bag of wire you'll need to hook up the LED DRLs to a power source. Each housing contains 12 large LEDs in 2 rows of 6. DRLs in the top row, turn signals in the bottom row. It does NOT include the smaller clear reflector so if you have the NA stock amber turn signals, you'll have to source those separately.

*The original installation instructions are available here. It's in Chinese but the pictures are pretty much self-explanatory: http://club.autohome.com.cn/bbs/thread-c-905-12169132-1.html.*

Tools you'll need: flashlight, wire stripper/cutter, torx driver with T20 bit, a guide wire or wire hanger for guiding the wire, means of connecting wires (I mostly went with the heat shrink tube route), some zip ties for organizing the wire in the engine compartment.

The LED turn signals are completely plug n play with no errors, and will work with or without wiring the LED DRLs (so even if you make an epic screw-up, at least you'll still have LED turn signals :laugh: ). The turn signal LEDs are exactly the same as the ones in the mirror housing in terms of color, but brighter. The LED DRLs switch off automatically when the turn signals are on.

Power for the DRL LEDs are basically wired the same way as the Achtuning/LEDCapsule ones: make a T-connection to join both sides and then run the wire to the power source you wish to tap into (see the install link above for pics). The easiest way to do this would be to cut the wire in two, the shorter one being just long enough to run from the passenger side light to the driver side light. Use the longer one for the driver side light/power source and just splice the shorter one onto it.

Initially, I wanted to run the wire to the engine compartment fuse box, but that turned out to be the wrong answer (at least with 2.0T models) because the turbocharger require cooling after driving, so the fuse box there (and battery) will continue to carry a charge until that's done and the car completely turns off. If the LEDs are hooked up to anything in the engine compartment fuse box, it'll end up staying on for maybe 10-20 minutes after turning off the car. Therefore, your only options are either splicing into the wires for an existing light in the engine compartment, or guiding the wire through the firewall and tap the driver side fuse box instead. I'm completely risk-averse so I went with the driver side fuse box route. 

Note that if you have a V6, then you won't have the issue described above and the engine compartment fuse box becomes a valid (and much better) option.

Guiding the power wire through the firewall was a bit of a pain because I have a manual transmission car. In automatic/DSG cars, there's a relatively easily accessible hole that leads to the engine compartment covered with a rubber grommet where the clutch pedal would be. Now, since I actually _have_ a clutch pedal, I don't have the luxury of that option. If you have an automatic or DSG I'd imagine the process would be much easier (see LEDCapsule's install instruction for the Achtuning LED product for some pics on this).

Assuming you're ready, you should remove the black undertray at the bottom of the dashboard. There are 3 torx screws along the front (towards you) edge. Once those are off, just push out the single tab right by the center screw and you can wiggle the whole thing down. You don't have to do this but it only takes a minute to do and will make the job much easier.

Guiding the wire from the outside in without removing the battery and its tray is tricky, so I went from the inside out. With an automatic/DSG car, you would probably just follow LEDCapsule's instructions, just in reverse. With my manual car, I had to use the other access point where most of the wires come through:








(note the black wire coming through the same hole as the big cable loom)

The supplied wire is relatively narrow (maybe 18 awg) so if you're careful with your guide wire, it'll easily slip in beside the cable loom without any damage to the rubber seal.

Once the wire is in, it's just a short hop to the driver side fuse box. The supplied wire isn't all that long. I barely had enough left at this point to get me to the fuse box, so you definitely want to be careful with your wiring or maybe have some extra wire on hand in case you need them.








(Tapped the 25A fuse at the bottom left)

Once that's done, you're finished. No coding required and no errors, although you will still need a vagcom to turn off DRL if you don't want them running at the same time as the LEDs. The LED DRLs will come on when the car is powered on (key in, ignition on or off), and turn off when the key is out of the ignition on/power on position.

Some bad iphone pics. 

































They project quite a bit of light, on par with the fogs:









They don't really blend together like the pics suggest. I just don't have a good camera on hand at the moment. It does give off that Golf R look, which is pretty cool.

EDIT: Some more pics

























Update: It's been about a month since my installation, and as usual for a Pacific Northwest fall season, it's pissing torrential rain just about every day. Having had more rain in a month than most other places get in a whole year, glad to say the lights are still working perfectly. I did open up the grill to see if there's any water ingress and everything looked just fine. I have no doubt these housings will last as long if not longer than the OEM ones.


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## ciki (May 6, 2012)

Awesome!!
So where did you get that small reflector? Did you already have the Euro turns, or did you buy it separately. Do you know the part #?


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## Lucian1988 (Mar 25, 2009)

that looks so nice.. its tempting. hows the quality on these? 

i never did any wiring of any sorts, how wasy was it to hook it up to 25A?


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## baye (May 6, 2009)

ciki said:


> Awesome!!
> So where did you get that small reflector? Did you already have the Euro turns, or did you buy it separately. Do you know the part #?


Yeah I already had the clear turns so I didn't have to worry about the smaller reflector. You can order the small piece separately. The part number is 3C8807717 and 3C8807718 I believe.



Lucian1988 said:


> that looks so nice.. its tempting. hows the quality on these?
> 
> i never did any wiring of any sorts, how wasy was it to hook it up to 25A?


The construction of the housing looks solid. I didn't see any flaws with the build quality. But just to be OCD, I applied silicone to the seams of the lights before installing. I did notice the OEM clear turns I took out had some condensation/mildew along the top edge so I guess being German built doesn't make them bulletproof either.

The trickiest part is probably running the wire in a sensible way in the engine compartment and then getting it through the firewall. Once the wire is inside the car it takes only a minute to open the fuse box and plug it in. There's no extra clutter since its just another wire in a sea of wires under there, and once you replace the undertray everything is out of sight.

And the last time I wired anything was probably in shop class back in high school, and that's a long time ago.:laugh: So I think most people can do this if they took the time.


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## RICO85 (Feb 3, 2011)

This just got me all excited to do mine. Hopefully I don't have to work late today because I just want to get this install done already.


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## saywhat1 (Nov 7, 2010)

Looks great!! Just ordered a set!


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## dubvrs (Feb 18, 2005)

Do they have the option to dim when you turn on your lights as in the UK not this is a legal requirement?


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## baye (May 6, 2009)

Dug out the old Canon and took some pics today in good old crappy Pacific Northwest weather. See first post.



dubvrs said:


> Do they have the option to dim when you turn on your lights as in the UK not this is a legal requirement?


You mean have them turn off when the low beam turns on at night? Not if you wire them into the fuse box. You may choose to tap into a parking light wire so you can control them using the European light switch you have there. I'm not too sure about how that would work but Ampiler did this so you can ask him for tips. :beer:


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## spakovw (Sep 8, 2010)

Look good I need to get me one set too


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Gradev (Nov 21, 2012)

Quick question. Once I went on e-bay to check out pricing of this item I noticed that there is a listed price and under it you see "Approximate C $...". What does that mean? Do I add up both numbers to figure out the total cost of the item?


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## VdubTX (Jul 5, 2003)

Gradev said:


> Quick question. Once I went on e-bay to check out pricing of this item I noticed that there is a listed price and under it you see "Approximate C $...". What does that mean? Do I add up both numbers to figure out the total cost of the item?


All that means is how much it would be in Canadian $'s. The link is from ebay.ca which is Canada eBay.


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## Gradev (Nov 21, 2012)

What is 25A controlling? I found this fuse box diagram in a previous thread but it doesn't seem like in the picture above..

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/10083184/fuses1001-1.jpg
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/10083184/fuses2001.jpg


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## Epence (Jan 7, 2010)

Gradev said:


> What is 25A controlling? I found this fuse box diagram in a previous thread but it doesn't seem like in the picture above..
> 
> http://dl.dropbox.com/u/10083184/fuses1001-1.jpg
> http://dl.dropbox.com/u/10083184/fuses2001.jpg


yea i wonder, too.. opcorn:


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## baye (May 6, 2009)

It's the cigarette lighter fuse, the most convenient one to use as far as I know.

Edit: the diagrams you had there seems to suggest it's the windshield washer system fuse. Hmm, I was pretty sure I had the right one... Oh well, it doesn't really matter that much as long as it powers on and off when you need them to. :laugh: Both the cigarette lighter and the washer will power on when the key is in acc power mode (one indent before ignition), and will turn off when ejecting/removing the key. If you don't want to tap into an existing fuse, you can just buy a bag of spare fuses from the dealership and choose an unused slot to use instead. Test around and see what works for you.


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## Gradev (Nov 21, 2012)

Would it matter what AMPs the fuses are? :sly:


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## JLondon (Dec 18, 2011)

I know this may be redundant, but, this IS the "plug and play" version for the DRLs that you and Ampiler have installed? http://www.ebay.com/itm/221142014568?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

I emailed this eBay seller for clarification, and I think something is getting lost in translation as this was our eBay communication:

Thanks for your support on our products.
For the item - 321020184230
YES, the installation is easy. the forum user with white CC is buy from our DRL.

For the cheaper DRL, we do not sell this version anymore.
Customers feedback as very complicated wire connecting.


2012/11/17 eBay Member: earfreeus 
*autoparts0523，您好！*

I understand there are 2 versions of your DRL for CC. Is this the version that is Plug & Play into the stock turn signal harness/plug without splicing wires? Will wire to the parking lights just like this user - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...to-your-CC&p=79016328&viewfull=1#post79016328

Also, what is the difference with this one? http://www.ebay.com/itm/321013485073?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

==================
I'd like to wire the same as Ampiler, hooking them up to the parking lights. Maybe Ampiler can chime in and confirm that these are the correct ones.

Would make for a nice XMas present to myself


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## baye (May 6, 2009)

Gradev said:


> Would it matter what AMPs the fuses are? :sly:


Well, the LEDs draw so little power it's unlikely to matter. To be safe, I'd still avoid avoid tapping into any fuses that power critical systems or with a high power draw. 



JLondon said:


> I know this may be redundant, but, this IS the "plug and play" version for the DRLs that you and Ampiler have installed? http://www.ebay.com/itm/221142014568?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


Yes, the posting you have there is correct. I think the seller is trying to say that he has now switched back to selling the version we have on our cars because for a while in October he shipped a different kind of unit that had much more complicated wiring (the one that was listed for $185 in your link) and I guess many buyers (including me) complained and asked for an exchange. So if you buy them now you should be getting the same thing as we do.


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## Gradev (Nov 21, 2012)

Baye, I see you have HIDs on your reflectors. Are those 4300k or 5000k? Also, what temperature do you think are the LED. I am about to do both at once and I wanted to get an HID that is close in color.


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## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

How bright is the white DRL, viewed from directly in front of the car, versus off to an angle ? (Are they very noticable in the daytime, when viewed straight-on?) Same question about the amber turn signal.


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## baye (May 6, 2009)

Gradev said:


> Baye, I see you have HIDs on your reflectors. Are those 4300k or 5000k? Also, what temperature do you think are the LED. I am about to do both at once and I wanted to get an HID that is close in color.


They're Hoen's xenonmatch bulbs, not HIDs, so I don't get pitchforked by the HID police around here. As for temp, the LEDs are 6000k, I believe.



CC'ed said:


> How bright is the white DRL, viewed from directly in front of the car, versus off to an angle ? (Are they very noticable in the daytime, when viewed straight-on?) Same question about the amber turn signal.


It's kinda hard to describe since I can't seem to get a photo that accurately represents what they looks like in person, mostly because the individual diodes tend to become blurred together in the photos despite being pretty distinct when viewed in person. Ampiler's original post gives you a pretty good idea: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...to-your-CC&p=79014235&viewfull=1#post79014235

In terms of look, they're pretty much just like the Golf R DRLs. They do become more subdued when viewed from off-center, although you still wouldn't miss them if I drove across in front of you.

The amber turn signals are exactly the same as the DRLs except for the color, which is to say they're definitely brighter and more noticeable than the stock bulb.


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## DarthBajan (Oct 22, 2008)

Thanks for this DIY Baye. I installed my own tonight, however I don't like the fit. They don't sit as flush as OEM.


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## Epence (Jan 7, 2010)

i would say, that's a no go for me... to me, that's kinda bad...:what:


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## baye (May 6, 2009)

Try repositioning it a bit. There's actually quite a bit of wiggle room. Mine didn't line up at first either until I realized I just needed to loosen the screw, hold the housing at the flush position, and then tighten the screw again. It sits flush now:


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## DarthBajan (Oct 22, 2008)

Thanks Baye, I'll give it another shot this week.



baye said:


> Try repositioning it a bit. There's actually quite a bit of wiggle room. Mine didn't line up at first either until I realized I just needed to loosen the screw, hold the housing at the flush position, and then tighten the screw again. It sits flush now:


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## HunterRose (Feb 16, 1999)

munnarg said:


> Thanks Baye, I'll give it another shot this week.


Any update,thinking of buying a set.


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## Gradev (Nov 21, 2012)

HunterRose said:


> Any update,thinking of buying a set.


Still debating whether getting OEM clear turns from Bud or get these. My only concern is that it wont look like the OEM LEDs on Audi (bright, sharp and clear).. Baye helped a lot but its a personal choice from that point on.


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## AE GTI #765 (Jul 14, 2005)

Same boat here. Debating to either get the eBay or the Achtuning one. Anybody who has seen both can chip in and tell if there's any difference in brightness?


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## DarthBajan (Oct 22, 2008)

For the price you really can't go wrong. The ACHtuning ones seem way overpriced to me. I was able to get them adjusted a little better to where I'm satisfied.


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## HunterRose (Feb 16, 1999)

Any update on how these are holding up?


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## baye (May 6, 2009)

HunterRose said:


> Any update on how these are holding up?


 Like a trooper. It's been months of rain, sleet, frost, snow and salt around here and not a single issue. 









As for the OEM look, I can say it is nearly identical to what the Golf R has (well, 6-LED units here vs the R's 5-LED units, as the CC's housings are a fair bit longer). When I took the car in for service a couple of months ago, my service agent said he noticed the LEDs and even asked me if it was an European optional equipment! :laugh:


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## HunterRose (Feb 16, 1999)

baye said:


> Like a trooper. It's been months of rain, sleet, frost, snow and salt around here and not a single issue.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Awesome... I know what I'm about to go order!!:thumbup::thumbup:

But now there seem to be four different vendors....


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## mtomaska (Sep 3, 2012)

What about these... It looks like they only require one 12V wire and rest is plug in 
Only $98 

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Volk...CC-1-1-replace-the-turn-signal/726821698.html 

I wonder about the quality 

Any inputs on this ?


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## fizz215 (Jul 30, 2012)

mine are holding up nicely through this Calgary winter.... thanks again to baye for guiding me through the install a few months back!


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## DarthBajan (Oct 22, 2008)

mtomaska said:


> What about these... It looks like they only require one 12V wire and rest is plug in
> Only $98
> 
> http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Volk...CC-1-1-replace-the-turn-signal/726821698.html
> ...


 I think they're pretty much the same as the ones we used. Mine uses the OEM connector and then a separate 12V wire for power to the LEDs. I did have a condensation issue with one of mine, but I emailed the seller and they asked for pictures of the issue. After sending the pictures they sent me out a replacement immediately without question. The seller is autoparts0523. I'll definitely do business with them again. I'll be sealing mine with silicon once the replacement arrives.


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## baye (May 6, 2009)

mtomaska said:


> What about these... It looks like they only require one 12V wire and rest is plug in
> Only $98
> 
> http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Volk...CC-1-1-replace-the-turn-signal/726821698.html
> ...


 They look to be identical to the ones we have, but at half the price  I'd make sure the price is per set and not per side. I noticed a number of sellers offering these unit at a lower price (around $150), either they're clearing out stocks or maybe the cost is lowered. Good news either way.


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## tellonr (Jan 8, 2013)

I got the same kit and installed it today. I will post pics soon.


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## tellonr (Jan 8, 2013)

BIG thanks to Peterek! helping me with installation.


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## srkerd (Dec 25, 2012)

baye said:


> Like a trooper. It's been months of rain, sleet, frost, snow and salt around here and not a single issue.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Hi Baye, 
Can you tell me what kind of bulbs you are using for your low beams. I am assuming those are not HIDs. They seem to match perfectly with the LEDs 

I have ordered the LED DRL - Turn signals and I would hate to have my low beams to look yellowish when they are turned on together... 

Thanks 

Serkan


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## Sharn (Jan 26, 2013)

I couldnt find these on Ebay kept getting some sketchy looking ones?


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## baye (May 6, 2009)

srkerd said:


> Can you tell me what kind of bulbs you are using for your low beams. I am assuming those are not HIDs. They seem to match perfectly with the LEDs


 They are Hoen Xenonmatch bulbs: 
http://www.hoen-usa.com/fog.htm 
(H7 55w. You might want an extra pair for the cornering lights too or it'll look weird when you turn) 


As for the look, it's not an exact match as the Hoen bulbs are about 4300k (same as the OEM HIDs, versus the stock halogen's 3200k), whereas the LEDs are around 5500k. This is actually similar to a lot of OEM set-ups on newer VWs with Bi-xenon/LED DRLs (granted, a 4300k HID will still look whiter since it is brighter than a 4300k halogen). All in all, it's close enough that you won't notice it too much. 

As for listings, it seems a lot of the sellers are on break because of the Chinese new year holidays in China. Most of them probably won't be back until mid-February.


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## srkerd (Dec 25, 2012)

Thanks Baye, I am still waiting for the LED daylights but I will order the Hoen's in the meantime. 

Thanks


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## ColumbusCC (Jan 18, 2013)

I installed the same set and they look awesome! Def nice cleaner look with clear instead of yellow. I would suggest resealing them with either a gel glue or silicone to make sure no moisture gets in. One was good and one was not so I took it off to fix. Eitherway they look awesome!


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## DarthBajan (Oct 22, 2008)

I second anyone that says to strengthen the seals with hot glue or silicon. I had condensation in one of mine and it appeared to have killed 3 of the yellow LEDs. The ebay seller sent a replacement promptly, but I guess now that the condensation had a chance to evaporate, all the LEDs are working again. I'll be sealing these for sure this weekend. I still recommend these to anyone.


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## PatricP (May 26, 2011)

Have had my new led drl/turns for a week. Just had the turns hooked up. Today, I worked on hooking up the drl LEDs. However they aren't lighting up. 
Maybe I missed up. 
Ran wire from passenger side light to driver side light, then spliced in a power wire. Ran power wire into my car when I hooked it up the fuse NOTHING happen and my wipers went working. After I removed the wire the wipers worked. 

What did I do wrong? 
Is there a trick to attaching the wire to the fuse?
Is this safe? Lol. 

Thanks for any help..


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## baye (May 6, 2009)

PatricP said:


> Have had my new led drl/turns for a week. Just had the turns hooked up. Today, I worked on hooking up the drl LEDs. However they aren't lighting up.
> Maybe I missed up.
> Ran wire from passenger side light to driver side light, then spliced in a power wire. Ran power wire into my car when I hooked it up the fuse NOTHING happen and my wipers went working. After I removed the wire the wipers worked.
> 
> ...


A pic of the fuse you tapped into would help. I thought the wiper fuse was in the engine compartment box. There's no real trick to tapping the fuse. Just remove the fuse, insert the stripped wire, then wedge the fuse back in tightly and check to see there's a clean connection. And yes it should be safe for the most part, there's almost no chance of blowing any fuse with something that draws as little power as these lights. You can get a bunch of extra fuses from the dealer for a few bucks if you're worried. Good luck.


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## srkerd (Dec 25, 2012)

Does anybody have photos of these DRL lights installed but not lit up so we can see how they fit. 
I have ordered one from ebay and got it I was very excited to see the box and the unit itself looked pretty well made but just to find out the fit was horrible. 
I couldn't stand it so send it back. But luckily the seller was very good with the return.


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## baye (May 6, 2009)

Bummer about the fit. I posted a pic in the previous page about this as well. I did notice a tiny slit on the top side after taking my previous photo so I took the cover off and readjusted/tightened the screw and now it sits just fine.








Excuse the messy/dirty pic as I live in the land of perpetual rain.

It seems that by default, the housing "droops" a bit if you simply just screw them on. I find that pushing the housing firmly upward while tightening the screw helps. Worse case scenario, you could "pad" the rail that the screw goes into with some foam tape or something to help push the whole thing upwards (wasn't necessary for me).


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## srkerd (Dec 25, 2012)

Baye, 

Something I found out, doing my installation is that in my case (2010 2.0t without HIDs) the fuse box in the engine bay is not powered after pulling the key out of the ignition. At least the fuse I have used isn't... 

I have used the F17 fuse in the engine bay and that gets power as soon as you push the key into the ignition and loses power as soon as you pull it out.... It could be different between different models though...


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## baye (May 6, 2009)

srkerd said:


> Baye,
> 
> Something I found out, doing my installation is that in my case (2010 2.0t without HIDs) the fuse box in the engine bay is not powered after pulling the key out of the ignition. At least the fuse I have used isn't...
> 
> I have used the F17 fuse in the engine bay and that gets power as soon as you push the key into the ignition and loses power as soon as you pull it out.... It could be different between different models though...


 I remember trying just about every fuse in that box and nothing worked. Did you try this after the car has been running for a while? The issue I had was that the box will continue to carry a current after the car was turned off (after a drive) until the turbo is sufficiently cooled. If you managed to find one that will behave as you said then perhaps I'm wrong and you just saved yourself a lot of work!


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## srkerd (Dec 25, 2012)

Yes it seems to be working fine. I have had these on for couple of days now and I don't see any problems. But again, I know there are different versions of the fuse boxes on these cars so mine might be the right configuration... Yes it does make it a very easy install when you can do it in the engine bay


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## JLondon (Dec 18, 2011)

Installed mine today after putting a small bead of Silicone II clear sealant around the seam of each light housing last night. I think the hardest part was pulling off the small corner pieces.

I used Tap n' Squeeze connectors - http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...la&gclid=CKiHzq__vrYCFVGx4AodBwcAAA&gclsrc=ds to connect to the parking lamp wires. Left is position 10 grey/black. Right is position 10 grey/red.

Judging from video only, both my white and yellow don't look quite as bright as everyone elses.


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## tambat (Jun 20, 2010)

JLondon said:


> Installed mine today after putting a small bead of Silicone II clear sealant around the seam of each light housing last night. I think the hardest part was pulling off the small corner pieces.
> 
> I used Tap n' Squeeze connectors - http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...la&gclid=CKiHzq__vrYCFVGx4AodBwcAAA&gclsrc=ds to connect to the parking lamp wires. Left is position 10 grey/black. Right is position 10 grey/red.
> 
> Judging from video only, both my white and yellow don't look quite as bright as everyone elses.


do you have your drls enabled then? or do these lights only come on when your parking lights come on? and maybe you aren't getting enough power through those connecters, causing the lights to be dimmer? i plan on buying these this summer and i will be routing them to the fuse box and using an add-a-fuse circuit with a 5amp fuse for them.


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## JLondon (Dec 18, 2011)

DRLs are enabled, but that doesn't matter as I have the Euro switch and can turn on/off my parking lights seperate from my low beams (DRL). Both yellow turn LEDs (plugged in to turn signal plug) and white LEDs (tapped into parking lamp wire) seem not as bright. Since they're plugged into different power sources, my wiring can't be the issue. I'll have to check it during night time hours and take a video to post.



tambat said:


> do you have your drls enabled then? or do these lights only come on when your parking lights come on? and maybe you aren't getting enough power through those connecters, causing the lights to be dimmer? i plan on buying these this summer and i will be routing them to the fuse box and using an add-a-fuse circuit with a 5amp fuse for them.


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## tambat (Jun 20, 2010)

JLondon said:


> DRLs are enabled, but that doesn't matter as I have the Euro switch and can turn on/off my parking lights seperate from my low beams (DRL). Both yellow turn LEDs (plugged in to turn signal plug) and white LEDs (tapped into parking lamp wire) seem not as bright. Since they're plugged into different power sources, my wiring can't be the issue. I'll have to check it during night time hours and take a video to post.


yup, you are right about the two power sources. i didn't think that one through. also, pretty cool being able to control when the white led's come on with the euro switch. i think i may do something similar now


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## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

My Ebay/Chinese LED DRLs just crapped-out.....only one of the white LEDs is lit in DRL housing...piece of crap.....Had them for maybe 6 months...


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

CC'ed said:


> My Ebay/Chinese LED DRLs just crapped-out.....only one of the white LEDs is lit in DRL housing...piece of crap.....Had them for maybe 6 months...


Damn... just when I was about to ORDER some!! You mind telling us what you ordered so we can stay away from them ? OR take a pic ?


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## tambat (Jun 20, 2010)

CC'ed said:


> My Ebay/Chinese LED DRLs just crapped-out.....only one of the white LEDs is lit in DRL housing...piece of crap.....Had them for maybe 6 months...


did you use a sealer before you installed them? maybe moisture got in and caused the failure..


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## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

Yes I sealed them with silicone RTV before I installed them, there is no visible condensation on the inside of the lens. Probably a cracked solder joint inside. I won't post the ebay sellers name unless they are unwilling to help me out.


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

CC'ed said:


> Yes I sealed them with silicone RTV before I installed them, there is no visible condensation on the inside of the lens. Probably a cracked solder joint inside. I won't post the ebay sellers name unless they are unwilling to help me out.


I wasnt asking for the seller's name. Just the type of DRL's you bought. There's about 3 types out there as far as I know. Just like to know to stay away from this specific type


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## tambat (Jun 20, 2010)

CC'ed said:


> Yes I sealed them with silicone RTV before I installed them, there is no visible condensation on the inside of the lens. Probably a cracked solder joint inside. I won't post the ebay sellers name unless they are unwilling to help me out.


man thats a huge bummer. i will hold off on buying these until i see what they do for you. hope they take care of you!


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## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

Still waiting for a response from the ebay vendor..............


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

CC'ed said:


> Still waiting for a response from the ebay vendor..............


If it hasn't been too long... look into filing a claim with PayPal. In the past, when the seller didn't respond to my emails, as soon as I filed a claim, they replied within hours! lol


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## JLondon (Dec 18, 2011)

Update...In the day time they don't seem to be very bright. However, I took a video while dark and they seem much better - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdPlR0YXY84&feature=youtu.be



JLondon said:


> Installed mine today after putting a small bead of Silicone II clear sealant around the seam of each light housing last night. I think the hardest part was pulling off the small corner pieces.
> 
> I used Tap n' Squeeze connectors - http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...la&gclid=CKiHzq__vrYCFVGx4AodBwcAAA&gclsrc=ds to connect to the parking lamp wires. Left is position 10 grey/black. Right is position 10 grey/red.
> 
> Judging from video only, both my white and yellow don't look quite as bright as everyone elses.


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Well they don't look too bad at night. Did you happen to make a video during the day ?! Would you mind taking a close up picture of the turns during the day ? I'd like to see how the LEDs sit in there...


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## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Brigh...ccessories&hash=item33817f46ea#ht_2036wt_1161

My DRLs from the above Ebay member died in 6 months......only one white LED in the passenger side unit lights up. The vendor is unresponsive in resolving the problem. Might want to shop elswhere. My bad that I didn't ask the vendor what (if any) warrantee is on this item, apparently none, after the 7 day Ebay return period.

I will crack it open and see if I can fix it, I suspect a bad solder joint (workmanship issue).


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

I'm sorry to hear that man. Those things weren't cheap. Sucks to see 130 bucks down the drain like that. If you've got any electrical skills, it might be worth cracking them open and soldering in some cree or osram LEDs which I hear are much more durable. That's what I would do... but then again I hold a degree in this stuff. Heh

If you paid for them through a credit card (through PayPal), they might be able to help too. Because I'm sure PayPal will tell you to take a hike after 6 months :/


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## jmoo27 (Apr 10, 2013)

any news on how these are holding up?

I've found these

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/LED-Daytime-..._uhb=1#ht_6124wt_1397&clk_rvr_id=483020497529

and am really considering ordering but i have a few questions,
so do i need to order the 2 small corner pieces as well? and if I order a euro style switch will the wiring still be required or how would I make these my only DRL?


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## JLondon (Dec 18, 2011)

jmoo27 said:


> any news on how these are holding up?
> 
> I've found these
> 
> ...


Mine seem to be holding up well. I haven't had any issues with them. Yes, you'll need to order the 2 corner pieces if you want all clear....don't recall the part numbers. If you want them as always on DRL, you can wire power directly to the battery. You'll have to turn off DRL using VAGCOM if you want to turn off headlights as DRL (which is what I did). I wired the LED into the parking lamp connectors...I can turn them on/off with my euro swtich.


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## jmoo27 (Apr 10, 2013)

just trying to debate if its worth the 130 plus 13 each for the corner pieces then 60 for the euro switch, not to mention how much vag-com costs hmmmmm


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## brunoxmatoss (May 24, 2013)

Awesome, thanks for the diy, I think these ate my next mod

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2


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## Kenmac15 (Jul 17, 2012)

Yep this will most likely be my next mod as well


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

jmoo27 said:


> just trying to debate if its worth the 130 plus 13 each for the corner pieces then 60 for the euro switch, not to mention how much vag-com costs hmmmmm


Vagcom clone cable costs 23 dollars on aliexpress.com Go order one. Been happily using mine for the last couple months with no issues whatsoever...


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

I got these myself, adds awesome touch! Love them! Actually, I have all 3 DRL's possible 

Click to enlarge...


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## mEed (Jan 15, 2013)

http://www.jlstuning.com/drl-led-signals

what about these LED DRL's? anyone running these?


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

mEed said:


> http://www.jlstuning.com/drl-led-signals
> 
> what about these LED DRL's? anyone running these?


Uuuuu, those look NICE! They say "version 2" .... TEMPTED!!!!!


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## jmoo27 (Apr 10, 2013)

No way , done and done! Thanks


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

jmoo27 said:


> No way , done and done! Thanks


A backup is not a bad idea for $23..


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

If they weren't so crazy expensive I'd get a set.


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## DarthBajan (Oct 22, 2008)

So this started happening recently with my LED drl. One flashes orange while the other alternates between white and orange. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qhlnja6minE&feature=youtube_gdata_player

SwiftKey Flowed from my tiny Galaxy Note II


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

Looks like the control box is defective..


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## DarthBajan (Oct 22, 2008)

NRGCC said:


> Looks like the control box is defective..


Now I'm getting a bulb out error for that side and the turn signal no longer works. The drl still lights up however. 

SwiftKey Flowed from my tiny Galaxy Note II


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## m4f1050 (Mar 14, 2013)

What can we expect... It's made in


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## baye (May 6, 2009)

OP here. So it's been just over a year since I originally installed these lights on my car and today... everything is still working perfectly fine lol. Honestly, these things have been through just about every imaginable weather out there, in temperatures ranging from frozen solid to sweltering heat and I've yet to see so much as a dimmed diode.

Take that however you like. There are a dozen different types of of these DRL/turn signal LEDs out there (I'm surprised people are still talking about them here, having been absent from the forums myself for a good part of the year), but at least in my experience, these ones have been just as solid as an OEM part (actually, considering how much problems our cars suffer from, probably even more reliable than OEM :laugh: ).


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## jdeltree (Jan 6, 2014)

*Wiring question*

Sorry to rejuvenate this old thread. 
I finally bought these LED DRLs off ebay but I'm wondering if there is a way to wire these in such that the DRLs go off when the headlights come on...

Is there a way this can be wired to a switch. If so, any recommendations for where such a switch could be placed

Thanks.


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## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

My first set died, now I noticed my second set has the clear lens staring to yellow from UV sun exposure.......I might just go back to OEM clear ones, with the yellow blinker bulb in them.......


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

jdeltree said:


> Sorry to rejuvenate this old thread.
> I finally bought these LED DRLs off ebay but I'm wondering if there is a way to wire these in such that the DRLs go off when the headlights come on...
> 
> Is there a way this can be wired to a switch. If so, any recommendations for where such a switch could be placed
> ...


You could always hook them up to a relay tied into one of the headlights. When the headlight bulb gets power, the relay engages and turns off the power to the DRL's.


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## jdeltree (Jan 6, 2014)

Thanks for the tip


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## NRGCC (Apr 9, 2013)

I have my DRL's on all the time. Day or night. I think it looks great at night to have all of them on.. headlights, DRLs and foglights


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## jdeltree (Jan 6, 2014)

I got my question wrong the last time.

What I'm trying to do is to ensure that at every point in time I never have all 3 ON
At most, I never want the LED DRLs and the Fog lights ON together

So I would have
1. DRLs only
2. DRLs with Headlights
3. Fogs and Headlights

How can I do wire in the DRLs to ensure that this is the case. I want to get this done this weekend.
Thanks.


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## jdeltree (Jan 6, 2014)

Any help? Anyone? 



jdeltree said:


> I got my question wrong the last time.
> 
> What I'm trying to do is to ensure that at every point in time I never have all 3 ON
> At most, I never want the LED DRLs and the Fog lights ON together
> ...


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## OEMplusCC (Jan 27, 2013)

jdeltree said:


> Any help? Anyone?



Get simple relay. When Fog light get power ,cutoff power to DRLs. When you turn off fog lights DRLs will get power again. This operation matches all the combinations you want


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## jdeltree (Jan 6, 2014)

Thanks a bunch.



OEMplusCC said:


> Get simple relay. When Fog light get power ,cutoff power to DRLs. When you turn off fog lights DRLs will get power again. This operation matches all the combinations you want


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## Selby (Apr 23, 2014)

jdeltree said:


> Sorry to rejuvenate this old thread.
> I finally bought these LED DRLs off ebay but I'm wondering if there is a way to wire these in such that the DRLs go off when the headlights come on...
> 
> Is there a way this can be wired to a switch. If so, any recommendations for where such a switch could be placed
> ...


I'm assuming that since the stock DRLs turn off automatically when the headlights are on, there must be a relay built into the existing OEM headlight assembly. Would it not be possible then to splice into the wire (right before the DRL socket) that directly powers the DRLs. I'm not an expert so I'm writing this as more of a question than a suggestion. I don't know if there are different power requirements for the OEM DRL versus the LED DRL. If not though, would this be a simple solution to ensure the DRLs are not on when the headlights turn on?


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## Izayya (Nov 3, 2014)

I just got these in the mail the other day and had a question. I've only done a few wiring jobs before with installing like a stereo. I understand that i have to connect the two light then run it to the fuse box. I'm sure how to go about this (basically making the T and how to connect them all together) and if they gave me a long enough wire. If there is an way to explain this any better I'd appreciate it.


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## shogun1 (Oct 23, 2014)

@ Selby. This or similar



JLondon said:


> I used Tap n' Squeeze connectors - http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...la&gclid=CKiHzq__vrYCFVGx4AodBwcAAA&gclsrc=ds to connect to the parking lamp wires. Left is position 10 grey/black. Right is position 10 grey/red.


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## CCWILL (Oct 8, 2013)

srkerd said:


> Baye,
> 
> Something I found out, doing my installation is that in my case (2010 2.0t without HIDs) the fuse box in the engine bay is not powered after pulling the key out of the ignition. At least the fuse I have used isn't...
> 
> I have used the F17 fuse in the engine bay and that gets power as soon as you push the key into the ignition and loses power as soon as you pull it out.... It could be different between different models though...


I can confirm fuse F 17 in the engine bay does work perfectly for this project. I picked up a set from a similar seller on ebay a few weeks ago received them and installed them today. very nice flush look and all the LEDs are functioning as intended. Only ended up costing me $69 with shipping


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## CCWILL (Oct 8, 2013)

CCWILL said:


> I can confirm fuse F 17 in the engine bay does work perfectly for this project. I picked up a set from a similar seller on ebay a few weeks ago received them and installed them today. very nice flush look and all the LEDs are functioning as intended. Only ended up costing me $69 with shipping


2010 cc sport 2.0t

actually, after a few days running the drl power wire from F17 fuse in engine bay, I am getting p2295 (related to fuel pressure regulator) couples with rough idle and codes p300 - p304 (multiple/random missfire + all four cylinders). seems through the firewall to the inside fuse box is the way to go 

update: running wire down behind battery into firewall was VERY easy.

1) pop hood
2) get under your drivers side dash and locate the steering rod
3) 6 inches to the left, slightly above that you'll see a cutout in the dampening material, itll have 3 posts sticking out from it.
4) lift the cutout out of place and youve made it to the grommet.
5) pop the grommet out and run your wire through the hole into the grommet, poking a hole slightly smaller than the wire.
6) run wire to fuse box and find a ignition-hot fuse.
7) wire and youre done. took me all of 20 minutes.
6)


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## wowmk1 (Feb 6, 2014)

CCWILL said:


> 2010 cc sport 2.0t
> 
> actually, after a few days running the drl power wire from F17 fuse in engine bay, I am getting p2295 (related to fuel pressure regulator) couples with rough idle and codes p300 - p304 (multiple/random missfire + all four cylinders). seems through the firewall to the inside fuse box is the way to go
> 
> ...


Did you remove the battery? did you take the panel off under the dash? Thank you.


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## CCWILL (Oct 8, 2013)

wowmk1 said:


> Did you remove the battery? did you take the panel off under the dash? Thank you.


Yes the panel comes off under the dash and no I did not need to remove the battery for this


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## wowmk1 (Feb 6, 2014)

CCWILL said:


> Yes the panel comes off under the dash and no I did not need to remove the battery for this


Thank you for the fast response, i take it you pushed the wire from under the dash into the engine bay?


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## CCWILL (Oct 8, 2013)

wowmk1 said:


> Thank you for the fast response, i take it you pushed the wire from under the dash into the engine bay?


no the other way around I removed the panel under the steering wheel and popped out the insulation piece then with the hood open I could see straight into the car and used a piece of metal wire taped to my power wire to push it through


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## wowmk1 (Feb 6, 2014)

CCWILL said:


> no the other way around I removed the panel under the steering wheel and popped out the insulation piece then with the hood open I could see straight into the car and used a piece of metal wire taped to my power wire to push it through


Ok thanks im gonna try i out later on today.


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## wowmk1 (Feb 6, 2014)

wowmk1 said:


> Ok thanks im gonna try i out later on today.


it worked, i hooked the wire to the bottom leg of the 25a fuse so power runs trough fuse before reaching the the wire, so if the fuse goes out the lights gonna go out as well, extra layer of protection =)


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## oidoglr (Jan 26, 2009)

Is there any good reason not to tap the DRL functionality from the OEM DRL wiring so that they automatically come on whenever the stock DRLs would?


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## flipflp (Dec 10, 2012)

oidoglr said:


> Is there any good reason not to tap the DRL functionality from the OEM DRL wiring so that they automatically come on whenever the stock DRLs would?


If I'm not mistaken, our DRLs are just highbeams at low voltage making them dimmer. You couldn't use the 12V from that line for these without having some negative effect.


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## oidoglr (Jan 26, 2009)

flipflp said:


> If I'm not mistaken, our DRLs are just highbeams at low voltage making them dimmer. You couldn't use the 12V from that line for these without having some negative effect.


Sorry, I have OEM projectors (3.6 4motion) and the DRLs are a separate bulb from the HIDs. Should have specified that.


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## flipflp (Dec 10, 2012)

oidoglr said:


> Sorry, I have OEM projectors (3.6 4motion) and the DRLs are a separate bulb from the HIDs. Should have specified that.


Ah that does change things, didn't think about the Lux cars.

From reading on these installs, the DRL portion of the light just needs 12v that is fused (20a is probably overkill, but those are the easy fuses to get to in the cabin). Since most people set them up to be on all the time, versus DRLs which switch off when the main headlights are on, I'm not sure if I've heard of anyone trying that. There is also something to say about leaving all factory wiring unmodified.

It's probably doable, but would be your preference to have them turn off at some point.


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