# Parking Brake not self adjusting.



## quiksilver18T (Jul 29, 2002)

Hi all,

I can't seem to figure out how to get my Driver Rear Caliper to engage the parking brake. I have attached the cable properly, and I can see the piston move a bit when push on the parking brake lever on the caliper, and see it retract a bit when I release the spring loaded lever., however, I have hardly any grip.

This is a new remanufactured caliper (Fenco). The original caliper had a torn dust seal on it.

I get decent pedal and braking force on it. Just can't get the parking brake to hold on any sort of incline. The original passenger rear caliper still works fine, boots look good etc. When I press on the PB lever on that caliper, I only need maybe 20% of the travel for it to hold the wheel that I can't turn it by hand.

I have bled the new caliper a couple times with a Motive power bleeder, and pretty sure I got all the bubbles out.


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## mattcowan (Oct 1, 2007)

Have you tried manually adjusting the cable under the center console? Also double check that the handbrake cable on that side is still in the correct channels and clips, i.e. there isn't anywhere it can leave slack in the line.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3055220

Good luck,
-Matt


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

Sounds to me like the rebuilt caliper's parking brake mechanism isn't working right, send it back.


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## quiksilver18T (Jul 29, 2002)

germancarnut51 said:


> Sounds to me like the rebuilt caliper's parking brake mechanism isn't working right, send it back.


51,

Unfortunately, I think u are right. I was diagnosing the situation again, and have come to the same / similiar diagnosis.

1. adjusted the PB cables in car by the center console. I have tightened them enough that the car will hold on a slight incline with just the passenger side PB.
2. Put the car up on lift 







and check PB lever on calipers. Both move when I pull the lever. No drag on the driver rear (reman) ever. Passenger side one works fine. Holds when it's supposed to hold, free spins when PB lever off.

3. Pump the PB lever 100x, still no difference. The screw mechanism doesn't move.

4. Just for giggles, I try the PB on the old caliper with the torn boot. I press the PB lever once, and the piston extends out close to 3/16"


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Tonight, I got to go figure out how I am going to take back the old caliper, get a new reman'd one in exchange, and not have all my brake fluid leak out. I don't have hose clamps, I do have vise grips, regular spring clamps, needle nose pliers etc. It'll likely take me 1 hr to go into town, re-explain the situation to the guy at the autoparts counter, and get home.


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

quiksilver18T said:


> 51,
> 
> Unfortunately, I think u are right. I was diagnosing the situation again, and have come to the same / similiar diagnosis.
> 
> ...




Get a fresh piece of rubber hose that will fit tightly over the end of the hose from the caliper, and a bolt that you can push into one end that will plug the hose. Unscrew the line from the caliper, and shove the open end of your homemade plug onto the brake line.

Since you say the old caliper has a bad boot, but works perfectly, why don't you fix it? You could order a TRW OE caliper seal kit for less than $10 online. Then you could remove the torn boot, replace the piston seal and the boot, and have a perfectly good, working spare caliper (I would have done this in the first place).


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## quiksilver18T (Jul 29, 2002)

germancarnut51 said:


> Get a fresh piece of rubber hose that will fit tightly over the end of the hose from the caliper, and a bolt that you can push into one end that will plug the hose. Unscrew the line from the caliper, and shove the open end of your homemade plug onto the brake line.
> 
> Since you say the old caliper has a bad boot, but works perfectly, why don't you fix it? You could order a TRW OE caliper seal kit for less than $10 online. Then you could remove the torn boot, replace the piston seal and the boot, and have a perfectly good, working spare caliper (I would have done this in the first place).


Not sure if your plug would work on this brake line. Doesn't look like the standard brake fitting. It's kinda a squashed square piece. Not sure if I could get a good seal.

The chain where I got the caliper is going to let me return it as defective. They don't have another one in stock, so I have to go down to the next store (same price).

The old caliper seems to work fine, except for the torn boot, HOWEVER, while playing with the caliper last night, I got the piston out. Can't figure out how to get the piston to rethread into the bore. Does it require a lot of force? No brake line attached to the caliper so I would not suspect any hydraulic lock.

There must be some trick to rethreading the piston back into the caliper. I think I see a snap ring on the inside of the piston, maybe holding the adjuster screw in the piston.... not sure if I am supposed to take it out or not.

Can't find any instructions on it.

Local stores don't seem to carry seal kits.

P


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

quiksilver18T said:


> Not sure if your plug would work on this brake line. Doesn't look like the standard brake fitting. It's kinda a squashed square piece. Not sure if I could get a good seal.
> 
> The chain where I got the caliper is going to let me return it as defective. They don't have another one in stock, so I have to go down to the next store (same price).
> 
> ...




There are things that you are not supposed to do to the rear brake calipers that can damage them. LIKE working the parking brake lever or blowing compressed air into the caliper when it is off the car without the brake pads in them. Or stepping on the brake pedal with the calipers on the car with the brake pads removed, or with the calipers not mounted, the brake pads not installed, and the hoses still connected to the rear calipers. Any of these activities can cause the caliper pistons to overtravel and damage the parking brak mechanism, totaling the caliper, because no parts are available for the rear calipers except for the seal kits.

DO NOT TAKE THE CALIPER ANY FURTHER APART.

That being said, what you also need to know is that a rear brake service tool is required to retract the pistons into the caliper bores. You need the tool to replace the rear brake pads. The tool pushes and rotates the caliper pistons at the same time to make them retract. Harbor Freight has a rear brake tool set that comes in a blue box with a lifetime warranty for about $40. It's on sale now for $30, and you can get a 20% Off Coupon from the Internet (brings the price down to $24), or a HF ad in the Sunday newspaper or a magazine.

There is also another tool named the "cube" that sells for $10 that is worthless. Don't try to cheap out and get that piece of junk.

You probably won't find the caliper seal kit in a local store. It would be a special order, and probably poor quality parts of third world manufacturer. You want a TRW manufactured OEM seal kit. They cost about $7 from my favorite Online Sellers. You will probably only find the seal kit listed under MKIII Jetta or Golf rear brake caliper seal kit. The same caliper seal kits fit on the MKIV rear brake calipers.


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## quiksilver18T (Jul 29, 2002)

germancarnut51 said:


> There are things that you are not supposed to do to the rear brake calipers that can damage them. LIKE working the parking brake lever or blowing compressed air into the caliper when it is off the car without the brake pads in them. Or stepping on the brake pedal with the calipers on the car with the brake pads removed, or with the calipers not mounted, the brake pads not installed, and the hoses still connected to the rear calipers. Any of these activities can cause the caliper pistons to overtravel and damage the parking brak mechanism, totaling the caliper, because no parts are available for the rear calipers except for the seal kits.
> 
> DO NOT TAKE THE CALIPER ANY FURTHER APART.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info.

I will hope that the new reman caliper works out well. I get $80 for a core charge for the caliper and will likely do that. 

I have successfully turned in a caliper with the wrench from my angle grinder, and the front piston pusher before. This is how I did the passenger side caliper.

Some chain stores here lend out the right brake caliper tool.

I'll keep an eye out for the multipiece brake caliper tool. No HF's here in the Great White North. My wife is probably going shopping in the states with some GF's from church, so I will send her to get me one with a 20% off coupon. Be good for Xmas.


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

I was thinking about how to plug the end of the hose.

How about stretching a couple of rubber ballons OR condoms over the banjo fitting?

Personally, I'd return the defective rebuilt caliper for a refund, and buy the the caliper seal kit, and the brake tool set. How do you know that a replacement caliper would be any better than the pone you already got from them. Fenco is not exactly a major brand name. 

You can order from the HF Website, and have them ship it to you.


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## quiksilver18T (Jul 29, 2002)

Change of plans.

I was able to reinsert the piston with a grinder wrench 










used simultaneously with a brake caliper tool like:










I'll order the caliper seal kit from the stealer tomorrow $27  No autoparts places NAPA, Benson etc carry the seal kit.

The piston and bore are fine... no visible scoring.

Hopefully I'll have it buttoned up tomorrow/Thurs depending on when the seals come in.. And refund the reman caliper.

Thx for the advice.

PS. My wife picked up another reman for me tonight. Had to return it. Bleeder nipple threads stripped. Yikes.


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