# AirRide Done! Stage2 of build is underway. elaborate audio build. (lots of pics 56K beware)



## VDubDubber (Aug 1, 2008)

Well to start for those who don't know my ride is a reflex silver 05 GTI. I started my build almost a year ago and it has been a longer more in depth process than I expected. I have another post on the airride build. That was my first ever build post. I am hoping to do a better job with this one and include more pictures of both parts and install instructions. So enough with the boring story. on to the good stuff.


























Headunit; cheap kenwood for now (carputer is together and up and running with in dash 8" In-Dash touchscreen) I want to get BoomBox installed on the carputer and a good soundcard capable of dolby 7.1 atleast, before installing. I am still researching how to setup the computer to provide full system and eq control so if anyone has experience or advice let me know.

FRONT STAGE:
Speakers;RE XXX components with Image Dynamics CSX62 tweeters and XX crossovers

















































Amp; JL Audio Slash 450/4 V2 
Front channel will be run off the 150x2 side of the amp

















REAR STAGE:
Speakers; Image Dynamics CSX62 Components with RE XXX tweeters and ID crossovers
































The rear stage will be run off the 75x2 side of the JL Audio 450/4


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## VDubDubber (Aug 1, 2008)

Low End:
Sub; MTX 9512-44
Enclosure is 2.4 cu.ft. slot ported and tuned to 32hz
Amp; MTX 1501D

Wiring:
All KnuKonceptz
1/0 Kolossus Flex Blue for positive and black for ground
Interconnects are all Knu also
8 ga speaker wire for sub
10 ga for components

Can you wire do this!??


































The last peice of the puzzle is sound deadening:
I picked Stinger Roadkill Expert for the mass load deadening layer 70 sq.ft. hoping this should be enough to cover most of the car include inner and outter door skins and possibly roof

For the floor I will be adding SecondSkin Luxury Liner Pro

For the doors they will get RoadKill Overkill on the door panels
Sorry I do not have the pictures of all the dampening it just arrived yesterday

Well I think I remembered everything. On to the build pics.


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## VDubDubber (Aug 1, 2008)

Well first off I did forget one major peice of the Audio puzzle. One of my favorite finds. It is a 200amp alternator from excessive amperage. Notice the 1/0 "BIG3" upgrade, I also left the original decently sized 4ga factory power and grounds to keep up with all the stock demands



























So here's the tear down


















Having fun first seat out.










































































































So that is all for tonight. I will try and put up more pictures tomorrow once the rest of the interior is out and the sound deadening starts to go in. GOOD NIGHT VORTEX! Please feel free to leave any opinions comments or suggestions.:laugh:


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

Good luck getting those xxx comps behind the stock door panels 

While you have the head-liner out, put some of that foam on the roof.


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## VDubDubber (Aug 1, 2008)

Glad to see someone with some experience chiming in. From my measurements seems there should be about an 1/8th-1/4" space between magnet and glass with window down. And about 1/8" between speaker and factory grille. I hope i am correct. I really don't want to have to glass the bottom qrtr of the door.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

If I remember correctly, it's 3 3/16 mounting depth and gives you just enough room for ~8-10mm on-way excursion if you cut out the back side of the grill.


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## VDubDubber (Aug 1, 2008)

WoW only 8-10mm!? Crap. What is one way excursion on the XXX's? I was hoping not to have to modify my door panel but I won't put up with a cone rattling against it either. Hmmmm, well I will be fitting them in a couple days hope it works out. If not how bad would it be to put my higher powered stronger mid bass comps in the rear? I know strong midbass in the back seat is not ideal but how bad will it be?


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

It's a lot... non-linear xmax in the high teens.

Can always just test and see.

If you put the midbass in the rear, lowpass crossover at 250hz and put something else in the front.


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## VDubDubber (Aug 1, 2008)

I think I see a cut stock grille and molded xxx grille in my future. lol what do you mean put something else in front? Would the CXS62's work well in the front with xxx's in rear? Or do you mean something totally different up front? Any suggestions?


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

Try and make 'em work up-front. It would be a waste to limit them to mid-bass only in the rear. My opinion, if you can't fit 'em, you'd be better of scrapping 'em and going with something completely different. but at least give 'em a shot


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## VDubDubber (Aug 1, 2008)

Yea, I would definitely prefer them as my front stage. I can make them work the only things it how much time, fab, and how far off of OE will it look. Do you know what the clearance is by any chance from the metal doorskin speaker mount to the factory grill? You said inner grill? It is double grilled? I haven't looked that closely at the grill yet.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

Not double-grilled, but the inside of the grill has support ridges that can be knocked down for extra clearance.


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## VDubDubber (Aug 1, 2008)

Well, it has been a crazy busy week. Haven't gotten as much done as planned. I will have pictures up late tonight. I have been rolling out alot of roadkill. Oh, another detail of the build, I have decided to drop all my precision power tools and table tools for this build. Everything is being cut and finished with the new dremel trio. So far I have cut one side of the box and about 7 mdf rings only 2 of them were up to my standards. Took me a little while to get a feel for circle cutting with this tool. The hardened steel bits, that are the standard issue for these, do not hold up well against the 3/4" birch mdf. I have burnt through and broken 3 of these bits so far. So I am getting the carbide version which is suppose to be excellent and last much longer for hardwood. 

So after cutting out the MDF rings and test fitting the XXX's in the front door it looks like they will work. With 2 mdf spacers the magnet just barely presses on the glass. After adding roadkill and clay for sealing the rings to panel I should have about 1/8th to 1/4" between magnet and glass. Will this be enough? Haven't test fitted the door panel yet but will be doing that tonight.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

Glad to hear work is getting done. Just got the Sirocco "started" today (sputters and dies) after tinkering for SIX MONTHS. 

Expect to gain about 1/8"-5/32" tops from clay and sealant. Add closed cell foam (weather stripping) behind the woofer (or more clay) for a couple 32nds extra.


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## VDubDubber (Aug 1, 2008)

I was actually considering using one more MDF ring. A half inch one this time instead of 3/4. I am pretty sure I should rethink that though since I think an inch and a half building is already pushing the limits with the door panel. So how much space should I need between magnet and glass to keep the glass from hitting it when it vibrates? What are you doing to your 'rocco? Got a thread on the build?


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

I'm pretty sure the most you can get out of there is two .75 spacers. You want as much space between the motor and glass as possible. 

No build thread on the rocco that I'm keeping up with. Swapped in an aba bottom end, tt race exhaust/mounts, etc. building for auto-x.


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## VDubDubber (Aug 1, 2008)

Man I need more time for my personal ride. Going slow here's some progress pics.* 

First what's left of the roadkill baking in my drive getting pliable and ready to install. Oh yea in the 102* Texas heat I may add. 



















And this is how much is already done. I can tell suck a big difference already after going around it banging on panels looking for rattles. BTW does anyone know how to get to the exhaust sheild to treat it? When I bag in the trunk it rattles at a very specific spot near the bumper. I see this being a big problem for my supposed rattle free ride.


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## VDubDubber (Aug 1, 2008)

Not sure if anyone even really looks at this thread but I will just keep on updating. Gives me something to help wind down after a long day. I am still waiting on the Carbide bits for the Dremel Trio so I slowed down a bit on the sound deadening. It is hot as hell in the un air conditioned garage facing west. Grrrr! But I am donw to the last bit now. All the RKE in in except in the hatch area, The Luxury Liner Pro has all been cut and partially installed. The carpeting should be back in by tomorrow afternoon. So here are some pictures. By the way notice they are better quality now. Enjoy 









































































Also I have pretty much decided I am going to redo and upgrade my air setup while I am at it. Tomorrow, I should be ordering a second 450c compressor, Billet 12 gallon tank, Odyssey II Solarix Quad air gauge, more RoadKill Expert, more roadkill Overkill, and more Luxury Liner Pro. :thumbup:


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## bretthn (Oct 3, 2005)

looks good, keep updating


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## VDubDubber (Aug 1, 2008)

bretthn said:


> looks good, keep updating


Thanks for the encouragement I will definately keep updating. 

YaY!! Carbide bits finally came today. Here are the resulting rings. The sloppy looking one was done with a hardened steel bit before I learned to order the carbides.



















This is my tired ass all day working for money all night working on car face!!










Well I'm off for a run with my dogs. Enjoy!


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## CWorthington (Sep 2, 2009)

Amazing. What you pay for all that matting? Also 10 gauge? Looks thicker to me. I plan to get a bigger alternator and do the big three with 0 or 00 gauge. 
It will take me a lot of money. But yeah how much you get the mat at?


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## VDubDubber (Aug 1, 2008)

CWorthington said:


> Amazing. What you pay for all that matting? Also 10 gauge? Looks thicker to me. I plan to get a bigger alternator and do the big three with 0 or 00 gauge.
> It will take me a lot of money. But yeah how much you get the mat at?


Thanks for the compliments. So to answer your first question, all the stinger roadkill and overkill came from GeekBro.com (badass place to shop cheap as he'll and fast shipping) The SecondSkin Luxury Liner Pro came from secondskin direct since I can't find anywhere else to get it. As far as the wiring goes it is not 10ga, as that wouldn't even put a dent into handling my load. The wiring is 1/0ga or 0ga (same thing) The KnuKoncepts stuff is actually very oversized it is actually about a 1.96/0 or an undersized 2/0 or 00 as you called it. I love this wire. I will be running 2 1/0 lines from the battery and my big 3 is done with both an 1/0 gauge and the factory 4 ga.


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## CWorthington (Sep 2, 2009)

Okay, that makes a lot of sense. I looked at it in the picture and was you must have small hands, but i noticed it said 1/0 gauge and the info you posted said 10... Thats why i wondered.

As of right now i have stock wiring, and a cheap set up. Im using a Panasonic head unit, which to tell you the truth, has some good sound set up features. The amp is 2400 watt Pyle =/ its okay... and two 12in. audiobahns. The speakers are fine, really good quality, just not heavy enough. I would look into Crossfire subs and amps. Not sure where to get them at yet, but they have incredibe ratings...


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## CWorthington (Sep 2, 2009)

Never mind. Lol 

Seems that you are using this http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KFX0BK


Also, it seems maybe this could support all your needs XD

http://www.cadencestore.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=120&idproduct=564


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## VDubDubber (Aug 1, 2008)

Thank goodness this thread is still here for some reason I thought it got deleted. It wasn't showing up in my subscribed threads anymore. Weird! Well more updates later today.


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## CWorthington (Sep 2, 2009)

Lol Cant wait.


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## babydaddy (Oct 13, 2004)

I love big installs. I got one that I'm stutstutstuttering on doing uggggg please inspire me!


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## pballpromasta (Jul 26, 2007)

watching  looks great! I cant wrap my head around the cost of all of that! I bet it would be great to listen to when finished.


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## Mcarp (Aug 18, 2010)

man this makes me wish i knew about car audio.
:beer: nice job, can't wait to see the finished product


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## VDubDubber (Aug 1, 2008)

Been awhile. Don't have a lot to update. I have come to the conclusion that, for the system to peform up to the sq level I want with the CarPuter, I need more time building the computer to work flawlessly and tune on board. So until then I have purchased a Alpine CDA-9887. I love these heads have owned 3 9886's and this is my second 9887. The only heads I have liked anywhere near as much are the old mcintosh and or Rockford decks. So I haven't gotten as much as I would like done. Has been 120+ in the garage here. Hard to get motivated after work. Most of the LLP is cut and glued down. Wiring is all run and ready to be plugged in. Tomorrow I will finish the doors and mount all the speakers. Oh and I wired and tested the Alpine today. So on to what you are here for. More variety will be coming in the pictures soon.*
































































Well that's all for now. Going to get a few winks before getting up and doing it all over again.*


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## CWorthington (Sep 2, 2009)

VDubDubber said:


>


 Havent seen those kind of rulers in a long time...


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## CWorthington (Sep 2, 2009)

Wish i could here the real quality when it get finished. I know it will bump hard man. =]
Cant wait to see what it will look like all together. Keep motivated. :beer:


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## pballpromasta (Jul 26, 2007)

Any updates?


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## VDubDubber (Aug 1, 2008)

A few new pictures. Decided to take a quick break from fab'ing tweeter mounts, rolling roadkill, and making mids fit. Thought I would cut and throw together the box real quick. Enjoy! Didn't quite finish it tonight.
































































And here is a few of one completed door panel. Ready to be installed back in the car.*


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## pballpromasta (Jul 26, 2007)

Looks good! Whats that puddy stuff thats filling air gaps between the speaker rings and the dynamat?


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## VDubDubber (Aug 1, 2008)

pballpromasta said:


> Looks good! Whats that puddy stuff thats filling air gaps between the speaker rings and the dynamat?


That is non hardening modeling clay. After that is added the rings are tightened down then the excess smoothed in you wrap the rings including putty spacer with RoadKill before installing speakers. It makes a great performing seal. We have huge airspace behind that panel I figure why not use it. Will throw up a couple pictures shortly of it completely finished and covered.


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## VDubDubber (Aug 1, 2008)

*YaY! Some quick updates Enjoy the pics*

Just a quick update. Enjoy~!


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## zachass o2 (May 6, 2009)

finally someone who actually knows something about doing this stuff and not asking how to make their speakers turn on with a moonsoon setup and an aftermarket headunit. keep up the good work :thumbup:


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## Snowman46919 (Mar 31, 2009)

zachass o2 said:


> finally someone who actually knows something about doing this stuff and not asking how to make their speakers turn on with a moonsoon setup and an aftermarket headunit. keep up the good work :thumbup:


I agree that he is doing good work, however are you trying to say that no one new is allowed to come to the game and put in work on their Volkswagen? Most people come to these threads and ask questions because not all the DIY's get stickied or it could be during a site rebuild and the search option doesn't work or the archives haven't been carried over. The best way to get a question answered is not a book, its by asking someone that has done it before first hand and can tell you what issues you might run into.


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## zachass o2 (May 6, 2009)

i agree completely but theres a difference between a genuine question/problem and plain and simple not following the wiring diagram that comes with the adapter. ive made my radio work without an adapter with no help other than google showing me which color wires were what.


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## Snowman46919 (Mar 31, 2009)

zachass o2 said:


> i agree completely but theres a difference between a genuine question/problem and plain and simple not following the wiring diagram that comes with the adapter. ive made my radio work without an adapter with no help other than google showing me which color wires were what.


alright just making sure you weren't painting everybody that asks a question with the same brush, end thread jack awesome project.


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## VDubDubber (Aug 1, 2008)

I see what you guys are talking about. I love answering questions but do agree with y'all. You can tell the people who just want step by step instructions. It is nice that they are trying but the simple beginners answers are out there if you take the time. I knew nothing about VW's when starting this. I spent 3 months reading every piece of VW ice install info I could find and another month reading reviews listening to peoples cars and picking equipment. I originally had everything hooked up through my monsoon amp in the beginning with just aftrmarket head and speakers. I figured out monsoon wiring myself with a digital multi meter. I love helping people answer questions. I do however wish there was more passion to research experiment and try new things though, that's what makes my build's different.


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## old_skool_jetta (Jul 20, 2007)

Nice build you have going there! Finally someone who is in to SQ as much as I am and putting it all into a VW product, def watching this thread..


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## VDubDubber (Aug 1, 2008)

Here are some more picture updates. Not alot of time to caption them all. Will post a written update later. If you have any questions just ask. Thanks everyone for your time and comments.*


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

The sub box fits well but I would VERY SERIOUSLY consider finding a new location for those amps. Besides the obvious theft hazard, the plastic side supports are not strong at all. I have two sets of those side supports with all of the clips broken on them.

I've done it before. I would never do it again.


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## VDubDubber (Aug 1, 2008)

Pat @ Pitt Soundworks said:


> The sub box fits well but I would VERY SERIOUSLY consider finding a new location for those amps. Besides the obvious theft hazard, the plastic side supports are not strong at all. I have two sets of those side supports with all of the clips broken on them.
> 
> I've done it before. I would never do it again.




LOL! I totally agree. Glad to see a pro confirm it for me. I thought it was my paranoid over kill. I planned the whole time for them to go here but when I took it apart noticed how weak they were. So you can't see it behind the carpet but I now have mdf braces giving the trim support. As far as theft I am installing a 5901 with all the bells and whistles plus the finished install will have those amps mounted in a box in the same location and the top piece they are sitting on now. There will be a box built into the bottom of it and the top will be a large plexi window.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

Eh, I get leery when it comes to suspending amp boxes on mdf. Again, it's heavy, weak, I won't do it again.

What I would do in this case, since trunk space really isn't an issue, is get someone who can weld to make you some frames that you can drill and tap mounting holes for the amps in - like this:









Bolt the sub box down, then bolt these to the top of the sub box. Then build a trim piece that covers the sub box, maybe the air compressor if you want. Make the trim be able to slide around the bases of the amp supports.

I do these out of 1/2 or 5/8" steel square tubing.


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## VDubDubber (Aug 1, 2008)

WoW! I can't believe I forgot and never updated this thread. So many changes to the system and car. I will update later.


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## EuroJerz (May 27, 2010)

Amazing build!!!


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## Max_O (Dec 23, 2003)

In to see the end result....was an awesome start :thumbup:


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## VDubDubber (Aug 1, 2008)

Update:

First off, I must humbly apologize for not updating this thread. The hatch/audio setup has been changed twice since writing this thread. And as I write this I am planning the third revision. lol*

First stage:
* * * Mdf slot ported enclosure
* * * MTX 9512-44
* * * Exposed valves*
* * * Copper hardlines
* * * AVS switchbox

So after doing this first stage I realized that copper hardlines and lots of bass do not mix! *The copper is just too soft. (yes, even the harder stuff, I tried) every time I would redo a line or fitting it would be leaking within a couple of days.*














































Oh and I melted down that bad arse current hogging SoundStream amp pushing the MX at 1ohm! lol that thing sounded better than it has ever sounded.


















MELTDOWN!










Second Stage:
* * *MDF slot ported enclosure
* * *RE Audio MX12D2
* * *Hidden valves*
* * *Stainless Steel hardlines
* * *AVS Switchbox

* Not any pics of this stage. I didn't like it and it only lasted maybe a month.

So for the second stage I changed subs from the MTX to an RE MX12. Can't say that I was really impressed with the sub over the MTX. This may be from the enclosure though. The main reason I rebuilt this time was to redo the hardlines in SS since I was tired of leaks. Also to hide those ugly ass valves. That was an ugly design choice on my part.*


Third Stage:
* * * Custom sealed fiberglass enclosure (built by me)
* * * RE Audio MX12D2
* * * Hidden accuair VU4
* * * Stainless steel hardlines
* * * Accuair Elevel (black controller)













































































































































































This was my favorite stage of the build so far. I love working with fiberglass. Actually I love making anything from scratch, myself. So here is the one downfall. Somewhere along the line while building the enclosure I had the bright idea that I would go with a RE XXX 12 instead of the MX. So I built the new sealed enclosure to XXX specs. The MX sounds like ass sealed, plus this sealed enclosure is waayyy too big. For stage 4 I will be porting the enclosure, then it will be perfect again for the MX. Oh and the addition of the Elevel was one of my favorite parts purchased for my car so far. Next to BagYards and PTE5857 (installing soon)


Have a Great New Year's Everyone!*


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## jetta021.8t (Feb 13, 2009)

What kind of fabric do u put on the top of the box so you and lay down the fiber glass? About how my lays of fiber glass ?


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

Fleece, spandex, or speaker grill cloth, depending on what you are making. As many layers as you can reasonably justify.


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## jetta021.8t (Feb 13, 2009)

Thanks for the info


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## VDubDubber (Aug 1, 2008)

jetta021.8t said:


> What kind of fabric do u put on the top of the box so you and lay down the fiber glass? About how my lays of fiber glass ?


From my experiences over the years with many materials. I have found that fleece works best. Get a heavy fleece and just soak it full of resin. The key is to get it soaked all the way through, really saturated with resin. And I don't use any fiberglass over any fleece pieces, they are plenty thick and strong if soaked in resin. Now for pieces like the bottom that are molded I use different varieties of fiberglass depending on the area and contours. Hope this helps some.


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## jetta021.8t (Feb 13, 2009)

Yea I'm looking to do a setup on the pass. side storage area and need to mold the back and if I can I make it big enough I want to put a 12" so I would probly have to do something like you did for the front . Working with fiber glass is not a big deal I use it alot at work just didn't know how many layers u go.


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## VDubDubber (Aug 1, 2008)

That's sounds like a plan. I'm sure you could find a very nice 12 to fit in there.


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## Markg813 (Jul 20, 2010)

i'm jealous of you're skill


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