# Headlight bulb replacement - how to get access to the bulb



## jeffdbrown (Sep 2, 2006)

*Headlight replacement*

*Archival Note added by Michael October 2012:*

In addition to the information presented in this discussion, there is is an illustrated guide explaining how to get access to the headlight bulbs in a W12 Phaeton at this post: Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions. The pictures on the first page of that post (from 357Sig) are missing at present, but there is an excellent set of pictures by Auzivision on the second page of that thread.

You may need to re-align the headlights after replacing the bulb. If you need to do that, there is an excellent set of illustrated how-to instructions by Willem Bal at this post: Headlight Range Adjustment Instructions.

Michael


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## W126C (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: Headlight replacement (jeffdbrown)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jeffdbrown* »_AUDI service...they said it might be the controller...spent 5 hrs removing the front bumper cover...

Hey Chris,
And you thought we were slow? That was our first time too. Just think how much faster we might be now. Give or take a *few screws.*








Regards,
Brent


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## car_guy (Aug 19, 2005)

*Re: Headlight replacement (jeffdbrown)*

Low or high beam?


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## jeffdbrown (Sep 2, 2006)

*Re: Headlight replacement (car_guy)*

low beam


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## chrisj428 (Feb 26, 2005)

*Re: Headlight replacement (W126C)*


_Quote, originally posted by *W126C* »_Give or take a *few screws.*









And one butt connector.


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## W126C (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: Headlight replacement (jeffdbrown)*

Jeffery,
Sorry about the joke between Chris and I. 
I/we have pulled the head light buckets out of the Phaeton. Changing the bulb, I'd think might have been somewhat easier. My question is, did the bulb flicker at all prior to completely going out? I have this going on now with my wife's T-reg. Been flickering for about two months now. $280.00 was the quote to replace it. I thought I'd wait until it is gone for good. I'm not sure how involved changing out the bulb in the T-reg will be. It is bi-xenon single bulb. Can't be worse than the Phaeton.
Just thinking, if there was no flickering before the burn out, then it could be something else. Unlikely though.
Regards,
Brent


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## onthego (Sep 7, 2007)

*Re: Headlight replacement (jeffdbrown)*

At 29K my bulb went out, replaced under warranty. It did work intermittently and flicker before it's death.


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## jeffdbrown (Sep 2, 2006)

*Re: Headlight replacement (W126C)*

Yes, the light did flicker before going out completely.
Finally got the headlight repaired/replaced today...had to take it to the Audi dealer who correctly diagnosed the problem in the first place after I spent a day in Memphis with a dealer that didn't have the right parts.
In addition, I have had to pay for the service...got the 30k done as well.
They replaced the control module: 3D0-909-158 $450.57 & bulb N-105-661-03 $149.84 labor $185
30k service $203.47...oil/filter changed


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## chrisj428 (Feb 26, 2005)

*Re: (Solipsism12)*

They do. 
However, single-line Audi dealers are unable to submit for warranty reimbursement on a VW claim. Stupid, I know, but a fact of life nevertheless...


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## vipa (Nov 20, 2006)

*Re: Headlight replacement (jeffdbrown)*

The left side D1S Hid Xenon headlight has been changed on my car (V8 2004) because of intermittent flickering. The bulb has been replaced after air filter box has been removed (30 min. job). The job has been covered by manufacturer warranty.
I guess that the same can be carried out on the right side headlight.


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## Jim_CT (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: Headlight replacement (jeffdbrown)*

Jeff - I believe on the 2005 V8, or at least for some of them, and perhaps the 2006 V8 as well, it is necessary to remove the front bumper to get to the headlight bulbs. This probably requires several hours (disassembling and reassembling) of shop time. 
One of my headlights has flickered a few times (starting at ~37k miles), and I have decided to wait until it goes completely before pursuing it further. 
Jim


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## strakit (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: Headlight replacement (Jim_CT)*

Guys.. Let's see if i got this one straight.... To change a high or low beam bulb, you got to disassemble the entire front of the car?!?!?!?!
My high beams are in need of replacement, and i thought about doing it myself... but after reading this...


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## JulianBenjamin (Jun 22, 2007)

*Re: Headlight replacement (strakit)*

That's correct. When they replaced my headlamp bulbs (low beams), they had to remove the front bumper. And it's for all Phaetons (mine's a 2004).
Not sure why manufacturers make it so difficult. My last 2 Chrysler Concordes (1999 and 2002) had the same issue with pulling off the bumper before accessing the headlamps.


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## strakit (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: Headlight replacement (JulianBenjamin)*

wow... im really surprised with that...
I had some experience with my Grand Voyager to have to unscrew the headlight to change a bulb... But the hole bumper... thats a first...
Does anyone know how much time does it take for dealerships to perfom a bulb change? (after reading this i wonder how many hours...)


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Headlight replacement (strakit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *strakit* »_Let's see if i got this one straight.... To change a high or low beam bulb, you got to disassemble the entire front of the car?

*NO, NO, NO * - You don't have to take the bumper off to change a bulb. You only have to remove the bumper if you want to change the entire headlamp assembly (the whole big thing).

If you want to change the bulb *on a W12*, you lift the hood, remove the top cover for the air filter on the affected side, remove the air filter element, then you shove your hand inside, remove the plastic cap from the back of the light, and then you change the bulb.

If you want to change the bulb *on a V8*, you remove the air duct that directs outside air from the top of the radiator area to the the air filter plenum, then you just stick your hand inside and change the bulb. As you can see in the photo below, even an ape could get his/her hand in there once the air duct (held in place with three screws) is removed.

The other thread I made reference to illustrated how to change the entire headlight assembly, not simply the bulb.

The pictures below show the air duct in place (on the left side of the car), and below that, the air duct removed (on the right side of the car).

Michael









http://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/ChangeHeadlight1.jpg









http://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/ChangeHeadlight2.jpg


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Headlight replacement (PanEuropean)*

Notice how easy it is to get access to the entire rear portion of the headlight once you remove that air duct (three screws). This photo shows the opposite side of the car.









http://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae275/Paneuropean/ChangeHeadlight3.jpg


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Headlight replacement (PanEuropean)*

And, while you have that air duct removed, get your vacuum cleaner out and clean the snow screens that are upstream of the paper air filter. You will be rewarded by a remarkable (5 to 10%) increase in zippiness and a decrease in fuel consumption.
Here is a link to a post that describes how to clean snow screens on a Phaeton with a W12 engine. The concepts are similar for the V8 engine but the process is a bit easier on the V8 because things are not packed in there so tightly.
If you live in an area that *absolutely, positively* does not get any snow, ever, you can remove the snow screen. But, if you remove it, please keep it with the car and take the time to put it back in when you get rid of the car, in case the car goes to a cold climate area. If you live in (for example) Southern California and you make one trip a year to Tahoe to go skiing, leave the snow screen in there! It only takes about 10 minutes of driving in light powder snow to get enough moisture onto the paper filter element to cause it to disintegrate, then start moving down the tube to the mass airflow sensor. The cost to fix up that little snafu will be a four-figure number.
Here's the link: Cleaning the Snow Screens in the Phaeton Air Intake
Michael


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## strakit (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: Headlight replacement (PanEuropean)*

Thanks for this Michael.
It restored my "happiness" level with the Phaeton....








I'm presuming the process for the V8 and the V6 to be similar (mine is a V6...) so i think ill be a bit adventurous this time (but not with the rear view mirror...







)
Pedro


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Headlight replacement (strakit)*

Hi Pedro:
Glad to hear the information was useful. Do take the time to have a look at the snow screens - you will probably be amazed at the amount of dirt in there. It is very easy to get access to the snow screen and to remove it for washing (soak it in the sink with some dish cleaning detergent for an hour - this makes cleaning easiest). Considering that you live in Estonia, don't forget to put them back in!








Michael


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## itsallbeendonebefore (May 13, 2007)

*Re: Headlight replacement (PanEuropean)*

Michael, thanx for posting the pics...my lowbeams have been flickering for quite a bit now and would like to purchase the lamp and install it myself. Where can i buy the lamp itself from? any suggestions on this will be greatly appreciated.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Headlight replacement (itsallbeendonebefore)*

You can purchase a replacement lamp from a VW dealer. They are not inexpensive - around $100 each. Be very careful to not get skin oils or grease on the bulb when you are handling it. The best way to avoid this is to have a clean latex glove handy - use that to handle the bulb.
If it is a 'powdered' latex glove, just wash it with water after you have put it on your hand, then dry it with a tissue. Water on the bulb is not a problem, provided you let the bulb dry out before you turn it on.
Michael


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## Motorista (Oct 28, 2005)

*Re: Headlight replacement (PanEuropean)*

Thank you, Michael: this is incredibly timely information for me, as my left low beam went off late last night after a long drive to New York (my car is a V8 2005 with 35383 miles). Here's what happened:
- After going through the Eazy-Pass toll booth about 15 miles from destination, I accelerated briskly (I was in sport mode) and the left low beam went out with accompanying "please check your lights" message in the center display. After about ten seconds it went back on. At this point I had been driving for about seven hours without problems.
- Five miles later, at the next toll booth, same problem: brisk acceleration coinciding with momentary loss of left low beam and warning message, then everything normal.
- At this point I got curious and deliberately recreated the same pattern of slowing down then accelerating briskly: every time the light went off then on again. The fourth time around, however, it went off and stayed off. The center display settled to the bulb icon lit in the top left part of the panel.
- Once at destination, I left the engine on and got out to check the lights: sure enough the left low beam (xenon) was off. The high beam worked fine.
- I turned off the engine, got my luggage to my apartment, then got out again to drive the car into the garage about a half hour later. At this point the light worked fine again.
So, I wonder:
1) Is this the same pattern of "flickering" that other forum memebrs have been experiencing? And, if so, does it mean the bulb is almost gone or is the controller at fault (or both?)
2) Has anyone else experienced the "quick acceleration-light off // settle into regular pace-light on" pattern? could this be related to the beam self-leveling feature? Does it shed any light (







pun intended) on the bulb vs. controller quandary?
3) Assuming it's the bulb, should I replace both or just the faulty one? I seem to remember someone recommending both at the same time, but can't find the posting.
3) Finally, 2 1/2 years and 35k miles seems quite short for a bulb life, but I suspect it might have been abbreviated by the DRL feature. So, I wonder if Michael (or someone else) can remind me how to turn DRL off with vag-com, or point me to the right thread if one exists (I can't seem to find it). Once the bulb is replaced, I'd like to turn DRL off to extend the life of the bulb.
By the way, Michael, you are also right about the great difference that cleaning the snow screens makes. However, a word of caution about the "no snow no filter" suggestion: when I cleaned mine last year, I found a lot of salt dust and grains (to be expected given where I live) but also several dead leaves. So, perhaps it's best to leave them in after all.
Stefano


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## mattsimis (Sep 19, 2005)

*Re: Headlight replacement (Motorista)*

Actually this is rather timely for me too, my car (V10) has just started doing this too, on acceleration at first and now under regular driving the front left (from inside the car) low beam has started to "pulse" on and off, occasionally generating an error code. Its just came back from a VW service and they didnt note this issue (didnt really start acting up till afterwards however)!
Ill run the Vag-Com on it later. 
Any aftermarket bulbs fit? VW want EUR120 plus tax (21%) per bulb and takes about 2 days to order. I really hope the problem is the bulb and not the controller, headlamp assembly! :banghead:


_Modified by mattsimis at 5:57 PM 5-6-2008_


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Headlight replacement (mattsimis)*

For those of you outside of North America, ask your VW dealer to look up Technical Solution 2010938 if you are encountering flickering of headlight bulbs. 
I have attached a copy, but it is in German. When your local VW dealer looks this Technical Solution up by the reference number shown above, it will appear in your local language.
Michael


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## mattsimis (Sep 19, 2005)

*Re: Headlight replacement (PanEuropean)*

Rang the VW Garage that just serviced it, described the problem and asked them the look up the VW Technical Solution and I have the number. The response was... "What is it you want us to do, just read it..?"








They called back and said all it says is to replace the bulbs (both) at my expense and they would charge me for diagnosing the problem too before they would fit them. Obviously Id do it myself in this case.
EDIT2: I called them back as I wasnt happy the first guy really read more than 2 lines of the TSB. I asked specifically to speak to the VW Service Manager that I booked the car in under originally. He listened to me then dismissed the TSB as he said "TSBs are tied to your VIN, not your car type, therefore we need to book it in and determine that ourselves". I told him the TSB explicitly stated it was all Phaetons upto 2006. He then said then likely its just for LHD Phaetons, again they didnt care for the enduser looking up TSBs as they determine if the problem is covered by the TSB and only their TSBs on their system in front of them.
I then asked about the price. My German is poor, but PanEs German TSB seemed to state an advised cost including labour and parts at EUR250. The Service Manager said that clearly my German language TSB and its costs have no relevance here ("_its for Germanyonly _")and "their" TSBs never have prices on them. He said the bulb alone would be EUR250.. and my only option is to book it with them , pay for them to determine whats wrong then pay for labour and bulbs, end of discussion.








After hanging up I noticed the German TSB has "Markt: Weltweit ohne Nordamerika" written on the top (Market: Worldwide except North America). Sigh..


_Modified by mattsimis at 3:33 PM 5-7-2008_


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Headlight replacement (mattsimis)*

Hi Matt:
The dealer is correct, TS's are tied to VIN. The reason I gave you the TS was to allow you to alert the dealer to it - which would then allow them to check on their service computer and see if it applied to your VIN.
The response you received from the dealer doesn't sound too encouraging, even if the TS does not apply to your VIN. I would have thought that the response, if negative, would have been something along the lines of "That TS describes a similar problem, but your VIN falls out of the range it covers, thus it does not apply to you."
There is no way a bulb is €250, not even in the most overheated economy in the world. Bulbs should cost perhaps USD 150 to 200. Perhaps check with Rich at OEM Plus to get a bulb price, and if you have to change the bulb, you can do it yourself. It is not a difficult task, although it requires a little bit of disassembly. I'd be happy to post the instructions for you.
Those of you who have followed the forum for a while know that it is pretty rare for me to say anything uncomplimentary about a dealer... but in this case, I really don't have any good things to say at all after reading about your experience. Might be worthwhile to look around for another VW dealer to service your car.
Michael


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## mattsimis (Sep 19, 2005)

*Re: Headlight replacement (PanEuropean)*

Thanks Michael. I should note currently in Ireland VW have no offical representation, this garage chain are the primary/largest distributors who represent VW, "acting" as VW Ireland. Unfortunately therefore they answer only to themselves. Its also standard practice to NOT check TSBs here. Thankfully recent EU ruling state all car companies have to have official bodies in countries they sell in and this will be changing shortly.
The idea of a customer with knowledge of TSBs was not something they were favourable of, likely for control and financial reasons (as they are more free to dictate prices themselves etc).
Ive ordered 2x original OSRAM Xenarc bulbs from (new) from an eBay seller for $78 each, at current exchange rates thats sickenly cheap by comparison. I had a go at removing the airbox etc to get at the back of the headlamp assembly in the last hour of light today, just to have a look, got the top half of the airbox out, but couldnt get the bottom half (which blocks the headlamp connectors) out past one of the V10s Turbo airpipe. The V10 is more cramped than the W12 in the photos above.
However, Ill be retrofitting S6 LED DRLs tomorrow which will require the front bumper to be removed anyway, so Ill get in that way.











_Modified by mattsimis at 10:57 PM 5-8-2008_


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Headlight replacement (mattsimis)*

Hi Matt:
Detailed instructions for removal and re-installation of the front bumper cover can be found here: Retrofitting Dual Xenon Headlamps.
A couple of suggestions, based on my experience:
1) You really do want to have the car on some form of platform or lift that raises it about a meter off the ground. It is a SOB to do this job with the car sitting on the ground.
2) Set aside quite a bit of time, and have a helper around when you are lifting the bumper cover. It's a two person operation to fit it.
Michael


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## W126C (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: Headlight replacement (PanEuropean)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PanEuropean* »_1) You really do want to have the car on some form of platform or lift that raises it about a meter off the ground. It is a SOB to do this job with the car sitting on the ground.
Michael

So that explains why it took so long and my back was sore.








Regards,
Brent


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## mattsimis (Sep 19, 2005)

I took the front bumper off a couple of weeks ago to paint the plastic tray thing on the bottom black (colour matched to the car now). Oddly it didnt take me more than 50min first time on my own. 
Did need help getting it back on tho, couldnt balance both sides onto the rails at once!
I have lots of experience taking the front bumper off other VAG cars, whats nice about the Phaeton is that they ran all the wires on the front into one large connector block, the Audi S4 on the other hand always risked yanking the fog light wire straight out the back of the lights as each component on the front is connected individually with fragile little wires.


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## mattsimis (Sep 19, 2005)

*Re: (mattsimis)*

From looking at the headlamp out of the car, the reason the bulb is rapidly dieing is the headlamp casing was only mounted on two screws, the other 2 mounts are broken and the headlamp was bouncing around (bearing in mind I live in the country and drive on rural roads). 
When I get the replacement bulb Ill use some epoxy to try get it all together again.


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## Prince Ludwig (Mar 24, 2007)

_Quote »_bearing in mind I live in the country and drive on rural roads

I know what you mean! Driving around Wexford I thought the car didn't feel as comfortable as it normally did (even with the suspension in comfort more) and was wondering why until I went in a friend's Subaru Forester down the same roads and felt like I was sitting in a paint mixer


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## Kcmover (Jul 20, 2005)

*Re: Headlight replacement (onthego)*

Well my left headlight went out today. Got the message on the dash when I started the car. I had noticed the flickering for a couple of months but thought nothing about it. 
But I now need to establish a plan to replace the bulb. Should I go ahead and buy both of them at the same time. Left and right. I assume that the High Beams are both ok. What about the controller they should be ok right?
My Phaeton now has 64,500 miles so it sounds like I have done as well or better then others posting about bulb failure. If its the controller then I would assume it would be covered by REAL DRIVER. If not and its the bulb. Then its my deal.
Anybody know what VW dealer charges for the part and what the book rate is on the labor vs buying Lamps on Ebay and installing myself.
Larry


_Modified by Kcmover at 5:55 PM 5-30-2008_


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Headlight replacement (Kcmover)*

Hi Larry:
Bulb replacement is an easy DIY task, a perfect Saturday morning activity.
My suggestion is that you purchase the two lamps at your local VW dealer (eBay is good for a lot of stuff, but I have reservations about buying bulbs from eBay), then replace both bulbs - in other words, each xenon lamp on each side. If one has failed, the other won't be too far away from end of life, and by replacing both, you will avoid any problems with colour differences when the lamps are illuminated.
You might want to check the fine print of your extended warranty - often, xenon bulbs are covered by warranties even though incandescent bulbs are not.
Michael


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## Kcmover (Jul 20, 2005)

*Re: Headlight replacement (PanEuropean)*

Michael,
Good to hear from you and hope all is well. I was not sure about ebay but the Local auto parts houses car it for about 129.00 each. I will check my VW dealer as perhaps they will be the same. I know if I can't do the work then one of the mechanics in my truck shop can if they do it first thing in the AM as they get dirty as the day goes long. 
I will check the REAL DRIVER but my guess is its considered a consumable item like brakes or wiper blades. Now the controller would be a REAL DRIVER part. 
Maybe you will make a road trip to Garmin and to eat some Jack's Stack BBQ and to change bulbs. 
Larry


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## Kcmover (Jul 20, 2005)

*Re: Headlight replacement (Kcmover)*

Well!
Not sure what is going on. Today the Warning message is gone. The little indicator circle or mark in the top left hand position is off and the Bulb is working just fine. Was getting ready to buy a new bulb or set of bulbs on Monday but now not sure what is really going on. Any suggestions. 
Maybe its a controller issue. that would be covered by REAL DRIVER. Will the lighting or bulb issue show up if the car is Vag-Com checked?
Thanks,
Larry


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Headlight replacement (Kcmover)*

Yes, a controller scan will reveal the reason for the problem.


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## rscharf (Jan 19, 2004)

*Re: Headlight replacement (PanEuropean)*

I've been getting a light warning indication now for some time (off and on). I can't remember the exact warning. I haven't had a chance to hook up the VAGCOM to see if there is something stored.
I figured maybe a headlight(s) is going and the system can tell that.
Visually, all my lamps look fine.
Robert


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Headlight replacement (rscharf)*

The xenon lamps themselves (the glass ampules containing the gas and the two terminals) never fail, unless they fail catastrophically - for example, the glass breaks. If that is the case, you won't get intermittent function, they will just stop working for good.
If you are getting intermittent function, there is some possibility that an electrical terminal may be loose at the connection between the bulb assembly and the car wiring harness, at the back of the headlight assembly. You might want to take it apart, scuff up the terminals a bit with very fine sandpaper (1,500 grit), and then put it back together... that might solve the problem.
Michael


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## car_guy (Aug 19, 2005)

*Re: Headlight replacement (rscharf)*

I had the little bulb (not the high or low beam bulb) in the headlight housing fail on me in an interesting way. When I would turn on the headlights, or they would go on by themselves, a "bulb out" warning icon would go on and a warning would display advising me to check the lights. I could see that this little bulb was out but if I banged gently (oxymoron?) on the headlight housing or if I went over a big enough bump, the bulb would light up and stay on until I turned it off.
I finally got around to removing it and found that the filament was detached from one of the little posts inside the bulb but when it had power and was made to touch the post by vibration, it would evidently stick to the post and stay lit. Maybe it has to do with the electric current inducing magnetism or whatever, but it happened over and over again. I replaced the bulb and it now works all the time. The mechanics at my shop tell me this is not an uncommon occurrence.
BTW, this is a bulb number 194 (if my memory is correct) which in the normal clear version cost about 50 cents. However, the Phaeton uses a bluish version of the same bulb that costs about $5.00 and I could only source through VW! I guess it's a small price to pay for fashion.
Steven


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## rscharf (Jan 19, 2004)

*Re: Headlight replacement (car_guy)*

Thanks Steven-
I edited this reply since after checking, I found that the small light that's in the housing with the high beam is going out intermittently on the drivers side. I was so concerned that it was something to do with the xenons that I overlooked that little bulb. I had even checked tail lights and other small lights, overlooking those.
Who would have thought?
So, does anyone have a part number for those little lights?
Robert


_Modified by rscharf at 3:35 AM 6-8-2008_


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## rscharf (Jan 19, 2004)

*Re: Headlight replacement (rscharf)*

Steven-
Could you give me instructions on how to remove that little 'parking' bulb? 
I tried to follow Michael's instructions for removing the various parts of the air filter and after doing all that I still couldn't get my hand in there well enough to pinch the clips and remove that little bulb. It doesn't help that I have almost 0 experience doing anything with a car other than washing/detailing it. Did you remove the high beam to make it easier to get to the parking bulb?
I even tried to remove the bottom part of the air filter plenum to get more working space and I couldn't get it fully removed, so I snapped it back in.
Unfortunately, if I'm going to be able to do this myself, I'll need relatively detailed instructions on how to remove wiring harnesses/bulbs (if that high beam does need to come out first).
Thanks for any help on this.
Robert


_Modified by rscharf at 12:47 AM 6-9-2008_


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## car_guy (Aug 19, 2005)

*Re: Headlight replacement (rscharf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rscharf* »_I edited this reply since after checking, I found that the small light that's in the housing with the high beam is going out intermittently on the drivers side.
So, does anyone have a part number for those little lights?

You experience the exact same intermittent failure of the same bulb on the same side of the car. Hopefully the cause is the same as well as all it required was the replacement of the bulb. 
We did not have to take out or move the headlight housing to get to the bulb. I will try to give you more detailed information on the replacement procedure tomorrow, but all that was required was the removal of the air cleaner housing which is pretty easy. As you have found, even after the removal, the access is pretty tight.
As I stated, the after-market (non-VW) part number for the clear version of this bulb (I will confirm tomorrow) is 194. However, the VW version of this is tinted blue. I will see if I can get you the VW part number tomorrow or if you have access to a Phaeton dealer they can identify and provide it to you. My dealer had to order it for me! We both had a laugh over it.
Steven


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## rscharf (Jan 19, 2004)

*Re: Headlight replacement (car_guy)*

Steven-
Thanks.
Did you remove the bottom of the air filter housing too?
After I popped the bottom of the housing from it's receptacle (those two posts that snap into receptacles below the housing), I couldn't fully remove the housing between the engine and the side of the engine bay. I tried to rotate it a bit but I still couldn't force it between the engine and side of the bay.
My plan was to put it back together and take it to a garage and have them do it since it seemed too challenging for me!








Robert


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## rscharf (Jan 19, 2004)

*Re: Headlight replacement (rscharf)*

Steven-
I FINALLY got the light changed tonight and the trick for me seemed to be using latex gloves. I put on latex gloves to try it again since I tore up my hands enough trying to remove the bulb in the afternoon. I think the latex over my fingers must have gotten stuck on the clips enough so that I had them both engaged and the bulb could come out. I was shocked when the bulb finally started to move.
So I WAS able to remove the bulb with only the top of the air filter housing off. I'll put it all together tomorrow after vacuuming out the remainder of the sand/debris that didn't come out when I was trying to remove the bottom of the filter housing. Tonight I washed the dirty snow screen. That non-existent Houston snow is dirty!
Just for people's information: I got my pair of replacement parking lights at Autozone for less than $4. They are a clear set and when they are on the color of the light looks exactly the same. I personnally don't see the need for getting VW OEM for this bulb replacement.
Robert


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Headlight replacement (rscharf)*

*Archival Note:*
There is additional discussion of this topic, including a "how-to" set of instructions, at this post: HID flickering on both headlights.
Michael


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## jdbrown (Oct 30, 2008)

*Re: Headlight replacement (Kcmover)*

Right side bulb out again; 44700...in the shop for replacement tomorrow. jeff


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## itsallbeendonebefore (May 13, 2007)

*replacement (small bulb in the headlight housing)*

i looked for a bit but couldnt find where someone had asked for the part number to the small bulb in the housing of the brights. here it is 
edit: N-017-753-10 and they go for about $5 at the dealership. btw, the bulb used by vw is toshiba 12v5w w5w (this is whats written on the bulb)








and like rscharf, i had the biggest problem of getting the little bulb out after removing the duct and the filter. is it possible to remove the bottom part of the filter assembly itself to get it out? anyone? i tried but to no avail so i put it all back together to try it sometime in the weekend. 
_Modified by itsallbeendonebefore at 7:40 PM 2-16-2009_


_Modified by itsallbeendonebefore at 7:40 PM 2-16-2009_


----------



## JulianBenjamin (Jun 22, 2007)

*Re: Headlight replacement (PanEuropean)*

Michael,
I tried accessing the low beam bulb last night following your instructions. However, I just don't see how I can access it by removing just the air duct. I can access the high beam bulb, but not the low beam. Are you sure it's possible to do so just by removing the duct?
BTW, my OnStar unit, that had failed for about a month, just came back on, so the interior light is now green again. Odd.
-Julian
EDIT: Nevermind. I found the HID replacement guide. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...53310



_Modified by JulianBenjamin at 9:06 PM 2-27-2009_


----------



## Prince Ludwig (Mar 24, 2007)

Just a little update for all V6 diesel owners, it's not possible to replace the low beam bulb without removing the entire bumper. My service technician showed me the VW TB for flickering bulbs which, on the V6 diesel calls for the bumper to be removed...
Harry


----------



## Jim Morris (Nov 8, 2008)

*Re: (Prince Ludwig)*

Does this requirement also apply to the V10 TDI? I received my replacement bulbs today and I opened up the hood to see if this would be an easy task or not, but I couldn't figure out a single way to get to the lamp assembly. 
The box that's kinda in the way has something to do with air (it says <- AIR FLOW on the side) but it's pretty deep so I don't see how I could get it out.
Does anyone have experience with replacing the bulbs in a V10?
Clicking on the images makes them larger.


----------



## JulianBenjamin (Jun 22, 2007)

*Re: (Jim Morris)*

You seem to have a lot less space in your engine bay than I have in mine (V8). In mine, I can actually remove the air box, but your two side pipes seem to be in the way.
BTW, nice color on the car.


----------



## Jim Morris (Nov 8, 2008)

*Re: (JulianBenjamin)*

Thanks, it's a very common no-nonsense VW color (Anthracite Grey) which suits me fine as it doesn't draw any attention to me, and that's the way I like it. It's just another big grey Passat.
Somehow I don't think removing the airbox is the way to go for me. I had another look at it today after the engine cooled down a bit (although after 12 hours it's still to hot to touch in some areas...) and every time I look there's less and less space to move around. Indeed, there is this big metallic pipe in the way obstructing the removal of the air box, so I don't think this is possible.
There is, however, a single screw securing the headlight assembly to the chassis on the inboard side of the assembly. Crazy thought, but maybe the assembly just pivots out on removal of this screw? Any thoughts (Michael, help







)?


----------



## 357Sig (Oct 9, 2008)

*Re: (Jim Morris)*

I too have a right low beam that is acting up. It seems fine when the car is started. Then within about a minute or so, the color of the light turns pink. Then the light intermittently goes on and off and eventually goes out all together and the car issues all the related messages.
I had a run at taking the airbox off (I wanted to check the snow screens anyway) but there is no way there is room enough to get the back of the light housing off and pull the bulb/ballast out. 
The dealer quoted me $931 for the light and did not have an estimate as to the time required to install it. I plan to scan the car with my VAG-COM to see if the controller reports a problem. I do have a RealDriver platinum warranty and my car does not quite yet have 50,000 miles on it.
Bill


_Modified by 357Sig at 4:20 PM 8-29-2009_


----------



## zenmoused (Nov 6, 2008)

*Re: (357Sig)*


_Quote, originally posted by *357Sig* »_I too have a right low beam that is acting up. It seems fine when the car is started. Then within about a minute or so, the color of the light turns pink. Then it eventually goes out all together and the car issues all the related messages.


like
That sounds a controller issue to me, not bulb. VW should cover that under warranty.
Brian
P.S.- Those who are looking for replacement 194 lights, you can alternatively go to an LED shop online (vleds.com for instance) and find bulbs that more closely match your HID's. I did that in my RX-8 and they're beautiful IMO. Just my two cents.


----------



## 357Sig (Oct 9, 2008)

*Re: (zenmoused)*

I did a scan on my car, but unfortunately the light had gone out by then. so the VAG-COM showed an open circuit (or something).
I am going set the car to not use DRLs and scan it agin tomorrow morning, hopefully I can catch it when it is acting up and get a different message. It would be really interesting to se what it says when it is pink.
I reread my warranty and I believe if I can successfully assert that it is in fact a controller, then I believe my warranty will cover it.
Bill


----------



## 357Sig (Oct 9, 2008)

*Re: Headlight replacement (Kcmover)*

Larry,
Was the replacement of the Xenon bulb covered by the Real Driver warranty? I've got a bulb (the right one) that as yet has not gone completely out, but comes on as if perfect then goes to pink about a minute after turned on. And by about 20 minutes of continued use will begin to go off, then back on again for short periods, until finally it goes out at about 30 minutes of continuous use.
I have turned off the Daytime Running Lights as a result, so as not to stress the bulb any more than necessary. I am considering removing the bulb and cleaning the contacts and see if that helps. The color change makes me wonder if the issue is poor contact at the point where the ballast plugs into the car, or simply a bad bulb and just replace it?
Bill


_Modified by 357Sig at 7:21 AM 9-3-2009_


----------



## 357Sig (Oct 9, 2008)

*Re: Headlight replacement (357Sig)*

This is kinda crazy...tonight I drove my car in the dark and the right headlight is no longer pink, it's blue.


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## brosen (Jun 21, 2009)

*Daytime Running Lights (DRL) Replacement cost*

Hi, my DRL lights have been flickering (flashing at high frequency) lately, so I decided to bring the car in for the dealer to check them. 
They said the 2 DRL lights bulbs need to be changed, the total cost for the 2 bulbs plus labor is around $850, they said each bulb is $250, and labor is another $350.
Is it too complicated to change those bulbs ?, maybe I can do it myself ?, I found the following P/N for the Bulbs N 105 661 03 ?, is this the right one ?, it's the same bulb for Touareg and Passat:
*
N10566103 $215.00 $0.00 $159.32
Electrical - Chassis electrical - Bulbs - Headlamp bulb
Headlamp bulb, phaeton, low beam, low beam 2004 - 2006
*
Do I have other options in the market ?, maybe a Sylvania bulb ?, I know they manufacture for many different brands, Any link to the instructions how to change them ?
Bottom line, I have 2 options:
1.- To disable DRL lights, that way they will last longer
2.- Wait until they will die and at that time I can change them
From the Sylvania Web site I have 2 options:
*
Low beam headlamp
HID-D1S
High beam headlamp
9005XS
9005XSST Silverstar High Performance Lighting: The Whiter and Brighter Halogen
9005XSCB Cool Blue Halogen - The Whiter Light
*
Which one is the right one ?, Low Beam ?, thanks


_Modified by brosen at 5:49 PM 9-23-2009_


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## Motorista (Oct 28, 2005)

*Re: Daytime Running Lights (DRL) Replacement cost (brosen)*

Bernard,
The low beam is the one you need. I've changed them in a couple of V8's and found it fairly straightforward: you do however have to remove a few components of the air intake system, i.e. the two intake ducts and the entire filter boxes. This is relatively easy for the driver's side, as there is more room, but a bit harder for the passenger side, as there is much less room and the bottom half of the filter housing is difficult to remove completely. For this reason, I typically do the driver side first which gets me familiar with the exact shape and position of the retaining clip for the HID low beam bulb/ballast assembly. On the passenger side, I pull the bottom half of the filter housing straight up to free it from the rubber grommets that hold it firmly against the fender. Once this is done the housing is free and can be moved around enough to reach the bulb and retaining clip: it's a little tricky because one needs to navigate "blind" but less time consuming than rotating and cajoling the plastic housing clear of the right engine cylinder bank, in my opinion. Feel free to IM me your cell number if you'D like to discuss further.
Stefano


----------



## 357Sig (Oct 9, 2008)

*Re: Daytime Running Lights (DRL) Replacement cost (brosen)*

Bernard,
I am literally in the exact same place as you with regard to my low beam headlights. I am going to try to replace them myself as well. In the meantime, I disabled the Daytime Running Lights feature.
I just bought some replacement D1S HID bulbs from Partsgeek.com for $88 apiece. I purchased brake rotors and pads for my previous Phaeton from this company about 8 months ago. I also bought wheel bearings from them and the kits were incomplete in that they did not contain any of the bolts, just the bearings themselves. I had no trouble with returning the parts, because they were "defective" by virtue of being an incomplete set.
The bulbs I purchased are Sylvania Osram D1S HID, Part No W0133-1647934, for $83.75 + shipping for a total of $172.38. I have not received them as yet.
My only complaint with Partsgeek.com is that they want you to sign up for a "savings club" of some kind. 
I used the source code "Save3" to save 3% on my order. The discount was $5.03 which almost paid for the shipping
Bill
EDIT: Corrected numerous typos and made 2 clarifications. Original message was typed on a cell phone.


_Modified by 357Sig at 12:06 AM 9-24-2009_


----------



## ciscokidinsf (Feb 17, 2008)

*Re: Daytime Running Lights (357Sig)*

I did one of these myself with *theAmazingDave* one long Saturday afternoon. The cost was $84 per bulb. The job however took a bit of sweat. Like *Motorista* said, do the drivers side first and be very patient on the passenger side. It is very tight. Damn German torture chamber. Also, use gloves handling the bulbs.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Daytime Running Lights (DRL) Replacement cost (brosen)*


_Quote, originally posted by *brosen* »_Is it too complicated to change those bulbs? Maybe I can do it myself?

Hi Bernard:
As others have already pointed out, it is not too difficult to change the bulbs yourself, provided that you like doing this kind of work (which I think you do) and provided that you set aside sufficient time to do it (it makes a nice weekend activity).
Concerning the bulb, I think the key issue is that you order the correct "industry specification" of bulb (I believe it is called a D1S, but I am not totally sure of this - check in your Owner Manual, at the back), and that you buy a bulb that is made by a reputable manufacturer (e.g. Sylvania, Osram, or similar).
Note that there was a production problem with some Osram bulbs back in 2005, and VW withdrew these bulbs from dealer stock in Europe. It appears that some unscrupulous individual has obtained the bulbs that were supposed to be destroyed, and has been reselling them on eBay for some time now. So, I recommend that you do not buy headlight bulbs from eBay.
The problem affected only Osram bulbs, and only those produced prior to production week 31 of 2005. There is a picture of an Osram bulb below. The production week is identified by a letter code. The lower case letters a to z are used to identify weeks 1 through 26. The upper case letters A to Z are used to identify weeks 27 through 52.
The bulb in the photo below has a production code that reads q3K4. This is interpreted as follows:
Position 1 (the q) - means it was made in Berlin. Disregard.
Position 2 (the 3) - means it was made in 2003.
Position 3 (the K) - means it was made in the week that corresponds to an upper case K (that would be 26 + 11 = week 37).
Position 4 (the 4) - means it was made on the 4th day of the week. Disregard.
Bottom line is that you don't want to buy Osram bulbs that were made prior to week 31 of 2005.
Michael


----------



## brosen (Jun 21, 2009)

*Re: Daytime Running Lights (PanEuropean)*

Thanks to everybody for your answers. I think this will be an easy one, I already removed (a month ago) the whole Air Filter housing (both sides) to clean the "Snow Screens", I know it's a pain but did it already so it should not be that complicated to do it again








Now I have two more questions:
1.- I am entering winter in MN, meaning I have to do this before or after, it's not reasonable to plan this activity with -30C inside the Garage (mine is not heated







). 
Now I have a very mild flickering, any idea how long they will last ?, maybe if I disable DRL and use them only for the night they might last longer, until spring and change them at that time ?, if not I will have to change them in the next 60 days, feedback ?
2.- I am going to by the Sylvania/Osram bulbs, where is the most *reliable* place to buy them ?, I've used eBay a lot before but I am afraid of those Chinese replicas, and the *cost/effort* of replacing the bulbs is so big; that I have to be sure I am buying the original ones that will last for a long time and not only for 90 days








Again, thank you guys for the great feedback and information,

















_Modified by brosen at 1:16 PM 9-24-2009_


----------



## brosen (Jun 21, 2009)

*Re: Daytime Running Lights (357Sig)*

Thanks Bill, I just bought the 2 bulbs from Partsgeek, great price.


----------



## Motorista (Oct 28, 2005)

*Re: Daytime Running Lights (brosen)*

Bernard,
In my case, I've had only one bulb flicker for well over a year during which I did extensive night driving (so disabling DRL would not have helped). I even swapped it from one side to the other to make sure it was the bulb and not something else. Here's what I observed:
- Flickering started at the very end of a 400 mile night drive in very hot summer weather: it started about ten miles from destination and was more noticeable during hard acceleration. By the time I parked the car the light was out, period, but the following morning everyhting was fine.
- This pattern continued for about twelve months without noticeable increase: the bulb would be fine for several hundred miles, then start flickering, especially under hard acceleration. 
- Then things started getting worse fast: the bulb would flicker almsot from the moment I started the car, and the frequency increased too: after the first ten minutes or so of operation, the bulb would go off and stay off. At about this time the other bulb started flickering once or twice only, so I decided to replace them both.
Stefano


----------



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Headlight replacement (Hawkeye_Ben)*

Hi Ben:
I don't know if you have a V8 or W12 engine car - the airboxes may be different between the vehicles.
Generally speaking, if you remove the top from the airbox (fairly easy to do), and look around the perimeter of the lower portion of the airbox, you should find the fasteners that hold it to the car. I doubt very much that VW assembled the thing in such a way that the lower portion of the box cannot be removed from above.
I regret I don't have any service documentation (illustrations) handy that explain how to remove that component.
Michael


----------



## 357Sig (Oct 9, 2008)

*Re: Headlight replacement (PanEuropean)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zenmoused* »_ *How to Replace HID Headlamps* 
My headlights were flickering pretty badly, and so I went to the dealer. They quoted me $740 to replace the two headlights, including 2 D1S HID bulbs (at $240 each) and a few hours of work to remove the front bumper. After coming across Michael's helpful post in which he stated that you do not have to remove the bumper, I decided to tackle this project myself. 
Before we start, let it be known that these instructions are for a V8 engine. I'm sure it's similar across different engines, but not exactly the same.
*Preparation*
Step 1: Buy headlights. I decided to not try my chances with off-brands, and found a good price on the stock Osram D1S bulbs on eBay. Here's the link to what I found: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...0wt_0
Step 2: Collect your tools. You will need a long Philips screwdriver, a set of pliers, a hex-key set, and a star-bit set. I don't know the exact size of the bits you'll need, but they're fairly standard.
*Under the Hood*
Step 3: Locate your airboxes and remove the covers. First undo the two buttons that hold the heat shield on the airbox, just like a fireman's jacket. Each airbox has 4 Philips head screws holding it together.Once these are loosened all the way (they don't come out) you will see the air filters. Remove them and set them aside.
Step 4: Remove the snow screens. In your airbox will be a trapezoidal screen held in place by one Philips screw. Remove the screw and slide the screen out. While you have these out you should run them under some water to clean them. If they're particularly dirty, this will yield noticeable performance gains.
Step 5: Remove the air ducts from the front of the engine bay. These are each held in place with three star screws. They're really easy to remove.
Step 6: Move the airbox lids out of your way. First look for the compression ring that attaches each air hose to the plenum. Use your pliers to move these rings and remove the air hose from the plenum. This will allow you to move the lid of the airbox aside. (Note- be very careful not to get anything into the plenum while it's open). 
Step 7: Move the airboxes out of the way. Now that the tops of the airboxes are moved, you can move the airboxes themselves so you can get to the headlights. The airboxes are held in place by a hex screw, which is located at the top of the airbox and connects to the fender. Remove these. The airbox will still be held down. This is because it has two plastic pegs that fit into rubber grommets below them. With two hands, pull directly up with some force, and the airbox should come free. At this point you can either move them aside within the engine bay, or take them out. I did this both ways- both were just about as easy.
Step 8: Remove the headlight. There will be two stiff metal wires holding the plastic cover to the back of the headlight housing. These pivot, so move them aside, and the plastic cover should come loose. Take the cover completely out and you will see the back of the headlight. Its connector is facing downwards- pull it off straight down. then you can remove the bulb by pulling straight back.
Step 9: Install your headlight. Don't touch the glass on your bulb. This is like a game of Operation, only way more rewarding when you win. Maneuver that baby into the socket and you should feel it click into place- make sure that the connector is facing downward. Connect the plug and put everything back together in reverse order. 
Step 10: Get a beer. Yuengling if you have any. Congrats- you're done!


These are the instructions for V8 cars.
Like many things on the Phaeton, the engineering is sound, and once you see how the parts go together everything becomes obvious.
It seems like most everyone who has successfully changed these bulbs themselves has worked around the lower portion of the box once it is free of its mounts, but still trapped between the engine and the inner fender. Getting it free of its entrapment requires the same skill set as solving a Rubik's Cube, and that's one I don't have.
Bill


_Modified by 357Sig at 10:32 PM 9-25-2009_


----------



## 357Sig (Oct 9, 2008)

*Re: Daytime Running Lights (brosen)*

Received my headlights bulbs today. The date code on both of them was the same, "q9j5".


----------



## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: Daytime Running Lights (Motorista)*

My experience is similar to Bernard's. The nearside (passenger side, LHD vehicle) bulb started to flicker first about 8 or 9 months ago, I noticed it when parking in my garage but it was only a very slight flicker against the wall in front of the car. Since then, that bulb has steadily got worse and the driver's side has also started with minor flickering. Now the passenger side will occasionally go out altogether, accompanied by the dashboard warning.
I had the dealer take a look 6 weeks ago during the 60k service and got the "answer" that they weren't sure what was causing it, and it would be prohibitively expensive to find out or to change the bulbs. After finding this thread I'll be doing the job myself as soon as I obtain the bulbs!


----------



## brosen (Jun 21, 2009)

*Re: Daytime Running Lights (PanEuropean)*

My old bulbs are q3w5 meaning week 50 (24 + 26) of 2003, I think they are the original ones from manufacturing and they lasted for 6 years (aprox) and they were always ON, because of the DRL lights. Now I have turned OFF DRL lights, so I am expecting to get from them at least another 6 years without any problem.
Thanks for the great information and instructions. Job was done last night took 90 min, tested last night as well and lights are much more powerful and brighter. Saved around $700 from dealer's quote.
























_Modified by brosen at 9:19 AM 10-3-2009_


----------



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Daytime Running Lights (brosen)*

*Archival Note:* Related post - Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions.


----------



## jgaines (Jul 31, 2009)

*Re: Daytime Running Lights (PanEuropean)*

Driver's side low beam bulb recently went "pink" relative to the "bright white" on the passenger side - take it this may be an early waring sign to replace the bulbs - figure should do both at same time and save the bright one for a temporary spare if necessary.


----------



## 357Sig (Oct 9, 2008)

*Re: Daytime Running Lights (jgaines)*

John,
My passenger side light started acting up that very same way. First pink, then light blue, then finally going out after flashing for about about 5 minutes. This was happening each time I drove the car. So, I replaced both of my bulbs, even though the driver side one was still "good" and had never shown any sign of trouble. 
I kept the "good" one and it can be had for the cost of postage. I realize that it is a used bulb, but replacing the the driver side bulb is a 20 minute job, as per the instructions in the post referred to above.
If you would like me to mail it to you, click on my user name and give me your address.
Bill


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## jgaines (Jul 31, 2009)

*Re: Daytime Running Lights (357Sig)*

Thank you Bill for the very kind offer and information; Phaeton is going to Des Moines this week for the quilt festival. We will most likely replace both bulbs to be safe and keep the bright one for emergencies - sounds like you may want to do the same.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Daytime Running Lights (jgaines)*

*Archival Note: * Related post - HID flickering on both headlights. *Be sure to read the discussion on the second page of this thread before you purchase any replacement headlight bulbs through eBay, internet advertisers, etc.!*


----------



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Daytime Running Lights (PanEuropean)*

*Archival Note: * A discussion warning against purchase of "Lumenez" brand replacement bulbs - Lumenez D1S replacement bulbs.


----------



## chryslerltd (Apr 12, 2007)

I just got my V6 back from an expensive service 138K Kms in Bavaria. The high beams were looking down at the ground, I complain to the dealer and get the usual crock including needing a new complete unit at 900euros plus installation costs.
I took off the side engine covers and adjusted the white turnwheels myself (it is so clearly obvious that it is embarrasing for me to relate the story) with a 10mm socket and ratchet to lift the beams back into their approximate correct positions.
Why am I still using VW tractor mechanics?? I wonder.
Martin


_Modified by chryslerltd at 7:49 AM 11-2-2009_


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (chryslerltd)*


_Quote, originally posted by *chryslerltd* »_I took off the side engine covers and adjusted the white turnwheels myself...

Martin:
Is the auto-levelling function working? It seems very odd that headlights would suddenly point down at the ground - the turnwheels cannot move by themselves. Is it possible that you have a defect of some kind in the headlight auto-levelling function, and you have simply adjusted the beams upwards (manually) and now have no auto-levelling?
Michael


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## Prince Ludwig (Mar 24, 2007)

Martin,
If you need a new set of headlamps I've got a spare pair with continental beam patterns








Harry


----------



## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*

By some amazing coincidence, my headlights started doing something similar last night. I drive fairly often in the dark down the alley to the garage, so I'm pretty sure it's not just the clocks going back that's made me notice it. The beam goes, at best, about two thirds of the distance it normally does, and it looks as if there's a lot more adjustment/twitching going on. The car's at the dealer today for the suspension strut noise, so I asked them to look at the headlights as well. I'm wondering if the two issues are not unconnected..... If the front of the car's lower because of a strut problem, the headlamp leveling system may be trying to compensate.


----------



## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: (Prince Ludwig)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Prince Ludwig* »_Martin,
If you need a new set of headlamps I've got a spare pair with continental beam patterns








Harry

<making a note>


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## Jagvar (Jan 6, 2009)

*Re: Headlight replacement (PanEuropean)*

The low-beam driver's side headlight bulb went out in my 2004 V8 Phaeton today. I've called a couple dealerships for estimates and they've both come back with roughly the same figure: about $275 for the bulb and another $275 for labor.








Both dealerships insisted that the front bumper assembly needs to be removed to change the bulb (even though I know better), but I'm not going to argue. I'll bite the bullet and pay the labor cost.
My concern is with the cost of the bulb. A quick Google search turned up this:
http://www.autopartsworld.com/....html
*Is this the bulb that I need?* If it is, I'll order it myself and save a couple hundred bucks. The second dealership said it would install the bulb if I brought it in myself. Thoughts? 
P.S. - The link lists two bulbs--a gas and a bi-xenon--for the same price. How do I know which one I need?










_Modified by Jagvar at 11:52 AM 11-3-2009_


----------



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Headlight replacement (Jagvar)*

Hi Patrick:
That appears to be the correct bulb, made by the same manufacturer that supplies VW with the OEM bulbs.
Michael


----------



## Jagvar (Jan 6, 2009)

*Re: Headlight replacement (PanEuropean)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PanEuropean* »_Hi Patrick:
That appears to be the correct bulb, made by the same manufacturer that supplies VW with the OEM bulbs.
Michael

Great! It appears to be listed twice on that page. The top listing says "bi-xenon" and the lower listing says "gas discharge." Does it matter which one I purchase?
Thanks, Michael.
- Patrick


----------



## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: Headlight replacement (Jagvar)*

For that price, it's well worth doing it yourself. I posted a set of updated instructions, and someone else posted the Rolls Royce of bulb-changing instructions including detailed photos. The bulb I used was from partsgeek.com, just plug in the vehicle & year, it was $93 I believe, including shipping. It arrived the next day and it's indistinguishable from the other side now its fitted (except that the other one now flickers!!). The job's fiddly, and you need to be very careful not to damage the electrode when you insert the new bulb. I don't know where they get those labour quotes from though, a trained tech ought to be able to do it easily in 30 minutes or so.


----------



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Headlight replacement (Jagvar)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jagvar* »_It appears to be listed twice on that page. The top listing says "bi-xenon" and the lower listing says "gas discharge." Does it matter which one I purchase?

Hello Patrick:
I noticed that also. Personally, I think that the two bulbs are identical, that there is a duplication in the listings. However, you might want to call the company and confirm this before placing your order.
Michael


----------



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Headlight replacement (PanEuropean)*

*Archival Note:* Additional background information about headlight bulb replacement - HID flickering on both headlights
Michael


----------



## paperclip (Aug 31, 2007)

*Headlights resetting*

Hello all,
I have been getting a 'Check Lights' warning sporadically and when the error pops up the headlights shut off and then seem to reset and turn back on. Has anyone else experienced this? The far right bulb is flickering, could this be associated? I have had the car less than a week and the dealer will replace the bulb but they claim they checked into the warning but could not find anything. 
Thanks in advance.


----------



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Headlights resetting (paperclip)*

Hi Kristian:
I appended your question (post directly above) onto this existing discussion of headlight issues. Give the complete discussion - all three pages - a read and I think you will then have a pretty good idea of what the problem could be.
My guess is that there is some corrosion or degradation of the connection between the xenon lamp itself and the wiring harness. The only fix for this is to replace the bulb. The other possibility is failure of the controller for the headlight, but degradation of the electrical connection at the bulb is the more probable cause.
Michael


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## 357Sig (Oct 9, 2008)

*Re: Headlights resetting (PanEuropean)*

Here is a forum discussion that gets into a little more detail of replacing the bulbs, in case you are inclined to do so.
Headlight bulb replacement - improved instructions [TOC]


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: Headlights resetting (paperclip)*

Yes, it's a symptom of the bulb failing. When it first starts, the flickering is barely perceptible, and the detection system in the car doesn't notice it either. As it gets worse, you'll notice it more, the bulb will go off completely for about half a second, the message pops up, then the bulb sorts itself out and the message disappears again. If you wait a little longer, the bulb will start to flicker almost continuously, at which point the dealer will no longer be able to avoid the issue!


----------



## AudianerA6 (Sep 19, 2007)

Hello,

I will need to replace my low beam xenon bulbs. My car is a V8 Phaeton with dual xenon option. Does this mean that I have to remove the bumper, to get access to the bulbs?
Also, another important question. I searched for the right Xenon bulbs in the web and found on the Osram web page these ones: retail (non oem) Osram Xenon Xenarc D1S 66142. Is it the right one? Can I also use 66144 ( better then 66142???) or do I have to use OEM VW parts( way to expansive in comparison, up to 200euro per bulb!!!)

thanks

and... yeah, the archived topics are back online!!! :laugh:


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## mikehoel (Aug 27, 2008)

*daytime running lamps*

How do you disable the DRL's?


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

mikehoel said:


> How do you disable the DRL's?


There's a section in the TOC that deals with all the tweaks you can do with VAG-COM.


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## AudianerA6 (Sep 19, 2007)

Still not changed the Xenon burners. What do you think about the Philips Ultra Blue Xenon burners? They've got 6000Kelvin instead of the 4150K the usual burners have. Could it happen that those burners harm the system, overheat or that it's not compatible??? It's available as D1S standard, same as the usual Phaeton bulbs. save to use or not?


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## mikehoel (Aug 27, 2008)

*DRL*

What are the part numbers for the daytime running lamps? behind the opaque lens......... and do you access them the same way as changing out the low and high beams? costs?


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## Itzmann (Jan 16, 2006)

Michael, 

Would it be possible to rehost the photos from your post #15? 

Thanks in advance,


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## evanst (Nov 2, 2010)

*Pictures?*

Post #15 mentions pictures, but I don't see them. What might I be doing wrong?


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## Itzmann (Jan 16, 2006)

When we got the Touareg, my wife remarked that forward night lighting was better than the Phaeton. This shocked me, as when we first got the Phaeton it lighted the road much better than our former Australian car, and I always remembered the P to have unsurpassed lighting. Nonetheless, I paid attention, and yes, the Phaeton was now hardly lighting the road ahead! (Note: we have to drive for about one hour to get to the closest unlighted road...). Later the beams have flashed and flickered almost imperceptibly, but the "replace" warning only lighted up once, six months ago, and then reset itself, with no further occurrences. The lights always shone, if dimly.

A few months later, one of the T's Osram Xenarc lights, made in 2007, quickly degraded to pink, blue, and then failed, so I got 4 bulbs of a sort most Touareggers who have HID use: the *Philips D1S Xenon*, D1S 85410 C1, 85V 35W, code 77712889. Made in Germany in Dec 2010. $54 each at Amazon. As a quick aside, both the T and P headlight assembly are made by *Valeo*, a French concern. The T units are amazing in that the whole huge units slide forward and out of the car like a cassette, leaving no wires behind: the whole unit plugs on its back to a series of fixed plugs. Like plugging on a wall.

Today I changed the Phaeton's Osram bulbs for Philips. Took two hours, including cleaning the snow screens.




PanEuropean said:


> The production week is identified by a letter code. The lower case letters a to z are used to identify weeks 1 through 26. The upper case letters A to Z are used to identify weeks 27 through 52.
> The bulb in the photo below has a production code that reads q3K4. This is interpreted as follows:
> Position 1 (the q) - means it was made in Berlin. Disregard.
> Position 2 (the 3) - means it was made in 2003.
> ...


The Phaeton's old bulbs were Osram Xenarc: Berlin, 2003, week C the one and D the other (July). Right in line with my car's manufacture in Q4 that year. My car has operated 48,000 miles at a guessed 15 MPH, or about 3,200 hrs, or right in line with bulb life expectancy.




brosen said:


> My old bulbs are q3w5 meaning week 50 (24 + 26) of 2003, I think they are the original ones from manufacturing and they lasted for 6 years (aprox) and they were always ON, because of the DRL lights. Now I have turned OFF DRL lights, so I am expecting to get from them at least another 6 years without any problem.


I think I read somewhere that in Europe for many cars the bulbs are nearly expected to be "life of car" because most cars there did not use the HIDs as full-power, always on DRLs, like ours do. I suppose if one does not drive much at night, the bulbs could last 200,000 mi! Also of note: our bulbs are 35W e.a. = 70W of permanent consumption for the life of the car because of DRL. :what:




Jagvar said:


> The low-beam driver's side headlight bulb went out in my 2004 V8 Phaeton today. I've called a couple dealerships for estimates and they've both come back with roughly the same figure: about $275 for the bulb and another $275 for labor.


Get the bulbs from Amazon or some other reputable source.


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## cai (Mar 22, 2009)

I have had the flickering lights for some time now. I have also seen the light bulb sign come up in the display warning me that a light is not working. I went to my local auto parts store, Advance Auto Parts in Virginia, and they quoted me $100.00 for a Sylvania D1S part number. I suggest going to a local part store and see if they can get the part for you. This is a more trustworthy way than buying them from E-Bay.

I will be replacing mine some time in the near future.

cai


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## cai (Mar 22, 2009)

Now I am not sure. I went to the Auto Parts World website, they presented a whole bunch of different light bulbs. The one that Jagvar chose is a a high intensity bulb. Is that what we have? What about the others they sell there claiming to fit a 2006 Phaeton? They also do not identify them as whether they replace the low or high beam.

I guess Jagvar was successful replacing his bulb, so that must be the correct one. My question is: were do those other bulbs fit and which is the one for the high beam?

cai


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## MichaelGa (Dec 1, 2009)

*bulbs*

Cai,

Some of us got our bulbs from partsgeek dot com. I did and they are $81 each Part Number: W0133-1647934 Sylvania Headlight Bulb. I can recommend them as I've had them in for a year and a half now with no issues. I replaced my own bulbs after the flickering started. I'd stay away from any ebay knock off, stick to OEM.

Michael


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## remrem (Jan 20, 2008)

*Price too good to be true?*

I saw this on Amazon for $41.63 per bulb and it looks like the real deal, but the price makes it seem too good to be true. Anyone see any reason why NOT to order this bulb? 

*http://www.amazon.com/Sylvania-6614...FXTA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1310647161&sr=8-2* 

Thanks. 

Best regards, 
Ron M.


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## deepcsmitty (Oct 23, 2011)

*Pictures?*

Michael, 

Perhaps the pictures have expired? This will be my first time getting into the engine compartment and i rather not muck up the process. A picture or two might help and i was wondering if you could repost them? I would greatly appreciate it!

Regards, 

Ryan


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Hello All:

Ryan, welcome to the forum.

To all of you who have been asking me to re-host the pictures in posts 15 and 16 - these photos were 'lost' when the forum changed over from ZeroForum software to vBulletin software about 18 months ago. In most cases, I have been able to re-host pictures because the affected post still contains a reference of some kind (file name, etc.) to the picture.

In the case of this particular set of pictures, there is no reference to the original name of the photos, and although I vaguely remember what the photos were, I don't know where in my computer I have them. They were photos of someone else's car, and between my Phaeton photos and my work-related (aircraft technical) photos, I have over 60,000 photos on the computer - too many to allow me to find it by just poking around.

I'll keep looking, though.

Michael


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## 357Sig (Oct 9, 2008)

*Headlight replacement pictures*

Michael,

I will no longer be hosting the pictures of the headlight replacement I did on my second Phaeton. The pictures are in the following thread:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ht-bulb-replacement-improved-instructions-TOC

You have my express permission to use them for any purpose you see fit.

The pictures will be removed from my web server on December 31, 2011.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Hi Bill:

Thanks for the "head's up" on that one - I will fetch the pictures and re-host them in the near future.

Michael


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## tojo1 (Jul 14, 2011)

Thanks this work out for me .I had gotten to the filter befor I read your instruction after ereading yours it was a breeze after replacing the bulb it still did not work.I quest its the controll module? Do you know were it is located at??


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## sjd9346 (Apr 21, 2004)

PanEuropean said:


> _Quote, originally posted by *strakit* »_Let's see if i got this one straight.... To change a high or low beam bulb, you got to disassemble the entire front of the car?
> 
> *NO, NO, NO * - You don't have to take the bumper off to change a bulb. You only have to remove the bumper if you want to change the entire headlamp assembly (the whole big thing).
> If you want to change the bulb *on a W12*, you lift the hood, remove the top cover for the air filter on the affected side, remove the air filter element, then you shove your hand inside, remove the plastic cap from the back of the light, and then you change the bulb.
> ...


I just took my 2006 W12 into the local dealer, where they have an excellent Phaeton Certified Technician. Michael, he confirmed that in the 2004 W12 engine, that you do not have to remove the bumper to replace the headlights, but in the later model 444 HP engine, that is not the case and you do have to remove it. I actually brought the post, with pictures and he agreed with everything - but not the higher output engine. He also confirmed that at my 40k service, the snow screens were cleaned and he also knew all about the sunroof drain clogging issue. 

Steve


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## Miss Sue (May 22, 2012)

*how to get access to the bulb*

Micheal your pictures did not come through, I need to change my bulb in the headlight, I understand I can go through the air filter, can you give me step by step guide with pictures. Do I need a torque screw driver?


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

You can do it without the pictures easily enough. You don't need a torque wrench for the job. The only two difficult parts are getting the air filter off (and back on) the grommet which is underneath it (it pulls off if I remember correctly), and getting your hand in to replace the bulb (helps if you have small hands and a small inspection mirror).


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## polow12 (May 29, 2012)

*Replacing Headlight on W12*

Can this be done without removing bumper? PLEASE HELP


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Depends which model Phaeton you have. Yes if it's a V8, yes if it's an early W12, don't know about the rest.


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## hylko (Nov 17, 2009)

*City Light UK Phaeton V6 TDI 05 Driverside replacement*

Good afternoon, 

My drivers side uk light went yesterday, is there an easy way to replace this small light? 
or does it need same procedure as normal headlight replacement ? 

Thanks Hylko


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## robbie-rocket-pants (Mar 25, 2012)

I just replaced both my side lights today and my RHS dipped light (xenon) on my 3.0 V6 TDi. 
I found that it was not necessary to remove the bumper to do the Xenon, but it did take a bit of effort. 

Here's how I did it: 

1. Jack up car or drive onto some small ramps to remove the front part of the engine under-tray and unscrew just the front part of the wheel lining. 
2. Pull off the filler neck for the washer fluid & pull off the engine top cover 
3. Remove the MAF sensor pipe & top of the air filter housing & filter 
4. There is a drain pipe attached to the bottom of the filter housing which runs down to the bottom of the car so this is why you needed to remove the under tray & wheel lining. Unclip the pipe. 
5. Pull up the bottom of the air filter housing with a good tug. It is impossible to get this housing out through the gap without dismantling the engine so it can just be jiggled around to move it as far forward as possible 










6. You can now get your hand in to remove Xenon cover 
7. Pull out the bulb & prise off the connector 
8. Change the bulb (don't touch it with your fingers) & refit everything 











To Change the RHS side-light: 
1. As above but jiggle the filter housing back until you can get your hand to the 2" circular rubber cover which protects the side & main beam bulbs. 
2. Pull off the cover then you can pull the side-light bulb straight out. 

To change the LHS side-light is a piece of cake: 
1. just pull the rubber cover off & pull the bulb out. 

I replaced my Xenon with a Philips equivalent and I replaced my side-lights with LED lights which look great.


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## WillemBal (Nov 20, 2010)

robbie-rocket-pants said:


> I replaced my Xenon with a Philips equivalent and I replaced my side-lights with LED lights which look great.


 Hi Robby, 
Great upgrade. What LED type did you use and where did you buy them? I want to do this upgrade too and I'm wondering what type / Wattage / number of LEDs etc. would be best. 
Another question: did you use CAN error cancelling LEDs or is that not necessary for this specific light? 

Willem


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## robbie-rocket-pants (Mar 25, 2012)

Hi Willem, 
I used these bulbs: 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-Car-Er...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43b1104d81 

As you can see they are CAN bus error free. 
Unlike a standard bulb, I found that they only work if you insert them the correct way round i.e. they need the +12v and 0v to be the right way round.


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## hylko (Nov 17, 2009)

*LED City light replacement on Dual Xenon*

@ robbie-rocket-pants thanks for your guide and address for the LED city lights. 

Just spent a few hours with replacing both City lights on the Dual Xenons Lights. 
Driverside was very time consuming but got there in the end. 

The LED replacements are much taller than the normal lights but fits in perfectly. 

Just a picture to show the end result. Its a simple upgrade but looks great. 

Thanks Hylko 

 

Uploaded with ImageShack.us


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## Auzivision (Apr 19, 2007)

Just for Archival purposes, following is a link to a short picture series I compiled: 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ctions-TOC&p=68961707&viewfull=1#post68961707


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## jkuisma (Nov 23, 2009)

> I just replaced both my side lights today and my RHS dipped light (xenon) on my 3.0 V6 TDi. I found that it was not necessary to remove the bumper to do the Xenon, but it did take a bit of effort.


 Good job, Robbie! You should have tackled the left side xenon bulb once you were at it, it would have been interesting to hear if you had managed. I tried it once, and could not do both sides myself. The cooling system expansion tank is in the way and does not give enough clearance to let you to access the bulb. The just might be a trick... 

BTW you can get the airbox out from the engine bay without taking out the engine. There is a certain angle in which it comes out without much violence. I have replaced mine once. 

BTW2 I just completed my longlasting project of transplanting GP2 LED DRL headlights into my 2005 car. I had bought the headlights nearly two years ago and it took me this long to research on how to get all the functions to work. In the end, I had to conclude it was simply impossible to get the adaptive/curve lights to work due to CAN BUS incompatibility. I did manage to get all the other functions in place, including automatic headlight range control. It was NOT at all simple. Quite a brutal modification of the headlight assy was required to fit the old, combined xenon controllers/igniters into the new headlight. Other changes include complete reworking of the headlight internal wiring, making connector adapters, fitting a newer model of air filter box etc. But, in the end, no changes in any CAN BUS devices were needed as I was forced to use the old headlight controllers. I will try to write a separate post on this soon. A word of caution, though. Had I know the extent of this work I probably would not have bothered. And, in the end, I spent several hundred euros of money in sourcing different components, together with tens of hours of working time, in trying to get the adaptive curve lights to work. It was a complete dead end. 

Jouko


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## GeigerVW (Aug 15, 2012)

*Small part number needed after HID bulb replacement*

I replaced the HID bulbs today following all of the wonderful insight and pictures from the forum. Thank you to everyone.

One item I need further help with is that sometime previously, someone pulled out one of the two rubber grommets that sit on the top of the wheel fender that the posts under the airbox slip into. Thus my airbox wiggles quite a bit.










I cannot find the part number, but really want to order this. Can someone help?


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

I ran into the same issue two weeks ago when I changed the bulbs. The rear grommet on the RH side was split in half. A new one is cheap at around $5, part # is 036129689B ... probably not a Phaeton specific part since the part number doesn't start with 3D.

Stephan


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

Forgot to ask, how did you manage to get the air filter box bottom half out of the car?


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## GeigerVW (Aug 15, 2012)

Phaetonlvr said:


> Forgot to ask, how did you manage to get the air filter box bottom half out of the car?


 Thanks for the part number. The driver's side airbox removal was far harder than the passenger side and that was tough too! For the driver's side I wrestled with it for 15 minutes, turning, twisting. I would love a VW factory installer or mechanic to clearly outline the process. The comments from others gave me hope, but I was stuck with trial and error. In removing it I broke off a final bit of the wire protecting loom for the spark plug. I went to the parts store and bought some split wire protector to replace it. 

I will say I was more fearful of the removal of the headlight cover barn door clips and the diamond bulb holding clip, but those were easy, 45 seconds each for the first side, 5 seconds on the other. But those damn airboxes are the only things that made this job an unpleasant one. If someone can record the technique and throw the video up on YouTube, it would prove very helpful. 

Thanks again.


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

I didn't have too much trouble with the driver side but was not able to remove the passenger side. However, you can move it far enough out of the way to get the bulb. I'd love to see a video of someone taking the passenger side box out. 

[Edit] After owning my Phaeton for nearly three years now, I found that it is indeed possible to remove the RH air box. However, the coil pack wiring harness has to be disconnected from the coil packs and moved to the valve cover to be able to get the air box bottom half out.

Stephan


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## evmaddy (Dec 18, 2014)

*RH airbox removal*



Phaetonlvr said:


> I didn't have too much trouble with the driver side but was not able to remove the passenger side. However, you can move it far enough out of the way to get the bulb. I'd love to see a video of someone taking the passenger side box out.
> 
> Stephan


Today I replaced the low beam on the RH side of my V8. Removed the low tension wiring to the coils, tried to remove the airbag in every possible orientation. No luck.
Ended up doing the job with the box loose but in the engine bay.
Read somewhere that someone removes the windshield washer filler neck?? is this the answer to removing the RH airbag?
Regards, Jeff


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

By "airbag", do you mean the air box that holds the filter? If so, it _can_ be removed without removing the filler neck, but it always takes me about 10 minutes to figure it out. I also decided to do it without removing the box when I did it a couple of months ago.


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## evmaddy (Dec 18, 2014)

invisiblewave said:


> By "airbag", do you mean the air box that holds the filter? If so, it _can_ be removed without removing the filler neck, but it always takes me about 10 minutes to figure it out. I also decided to do it without removing the box when I did it a couple of months ago.


Sorry that should have read airbox. Damn autocorrect!!


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

I did this Thursday to my right headlight on 2004 Phaeton W12 VIN 8486. I reinstalled the batteries so I could get it to pass inspection and the right headlight wasn't working. I cleared the fault several times in all of the controllers that reported it and it just wouldn't clear. I could have left it be but the right low beam wasn't coming on with the switch either. 

Anyhow, this is a royal pain in the rear for the W12. I thought I was going to have to pay VW to do it (not going to pull the bumper cover by myself).

I have a spare right headlight I bought on eBay with broken tabs. I bought it for the controller I need for 7579 but it also has a spare bulb and other assorted bits. I paid less than the cost of a bulb which I could and would use in another car that didn't need major surgery just to replace a bulb, but I digress. I used it today as a reference to where everything was located and how to get stuff out, etc.. (One good reason to keep broken stuff around.)


These are the steps for the right side. I haven't done the left side yet but it's probably easier. 

The first 7 steps are the same steps for replacing the air filter. 

1. Remove rear engine compartment cover trim. T30.

2. Remove right engine compartment cover trim. T30.

3. Remove right air snorkel and its rubber air box adapter. T20 as I recall.

4. Disconnect MAF sensor connector and move its harness out of the way. I have found the clip that holds the harness to the air box just pulls off. 

I use this tool and still have to "finesse" the connector:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/vag-connector-removal-tool/002916sch01a/

5. Disconnect the small hose for the coolant tank that goes over the air box. Unclip it or pull the clip out of the air box. Mine kept leaking coolant so it might be a good idea to plug the end. It kept pissing all over the place like a dog with a weak bladder. 

6. Remove the air duct from the MAF to the throttle body. I move the clamps inward on the air duct so they are ready to slide back into place. 

7. Back out the screws for the air box cover and remove it. It's really fun to get out but it helps if you move the rubber seal for the hood (bonnet) out of the way. 

8. Remove the heat shield if you like. Not sure if this is necessary but I did. 

9. Remove the upper mounting screw for the lower air box. T30. 

As I recall, it's under the spout for the windshield washer reservoir.

10. Reach under and pull up on the air box very firmly until it pops loose from the rubber grommets. 

I removed the snow shield to look for a screw under it. I forgot to reinstall it later. I will get to it eventually. When I didn't see a mounting screw under the snow shield or anywhere inside the air box and it seemed "floppy", I got out my borescope and looked under the airbox and saw it was attached via grommets. If I had looked at post #122 I could have saved some time and not have to do a "practice filter change" in the near future to replace the snow shield. 

Edit: I forgot to mention that the lower airbox did not want to come loose from its rubber grommets. It took a very firm tug while grabbing some sharp edges. Next time I will try to remember to grab some gloves. 

11. Pop open the clips that hold the cover on over the DRL/low beam.

This is where I thought I was not going to be able to do this. I could not get the cover off the low beam. I decided to take a break and think about what it was hitting. 

It was hitting the harness for the MAF sensor and butting up against the coolant tank. 

I found a mounting screw (T30) for the coolant tank inward and towards the rear of the engine compartment. There is a small coolant hose that goes through the mount in a handy hole just for that purpose.

12. Remove the mounting screw for the coolant tank and you can push it and the MAF harness just the tiniest bit to pull the cover off. The coolant tank might move maybe 1/4" but it's enough. As I recall, I had to pull the cover off at an angle and it was still a struggle.

13. I could then remove the harness from the bulb. I cleaned it with contact cleaner and reconnected it (really fun trying to do that when I could barely get my hand in there). Still no worky. I popped the clip out of the way after looking at my spare right headlight to see just how to do it. 

14. Remove bulb and carefully try to maneuver it without touching anything because you have to follow the same path back (bulbs don't like dirt). 

Even though my Phaeton hadn't been driven in months and the right headlight worked when parked, the bulb was defective. Not merely burned out but all of the glass was missing. I reconnected the MAF to prevent a fault which would mess up my emissions inspection the next day. I installed the bulb from my used right headlight and verified the light worked. I was worried about the glass from the "burned out" bulb still being in there. I removed the used bulb and got my ShopVac vacuum and a "dryer duct cleaning hose" and stuck that on the bulb hole. I sucked out as much glass as I could. My borescope skills suck, so I was not able to verify all glass was out of the hole but the ShopVac is very powerful and I would probably have to remove the headlight and shake it to get more shards out if there are any left. 

15. Check to make sure the grounding tabs around the bulb hole are not pushed in but they make contact with the square metal bulb base. (One if them was pushed in on mine and it didn't "feel right" when I inserted the new bulb and the clip did not want to click closed.)

16. Install new bulb. 

17. Reinstall everything in reverse order of removing it. 

Edit: I thought the lower air box might give me more problems when I reinstalled it, but it was much easier going back in. I cleaned as much of the area under the air box as I could reach using a Tub O' Towels cleaning wipe. (See step 5 for why I felt the need for extra cleaning.) I guess the wipe "lubed" the grommets enough so the mounting tabs on air box just popped right in. I had to sort of guess where to aim it by feeling under it and seeing if I could introduce the front tab to its grommet and hope the rear tab would just get in line.

18. Clear the codes for defective headlight bulb. They were in several of my controllers and I do not recall them all. 

-Eric

On a side note, this Phaeton had both batteries removed for at least a few months but had no CEL, no engine faults and the readiness was still set when I scanned it. When I checked the new bulb after installing it, I made the mistake of starting it without the right MAF being connected. No CEL, no engine faults and readiness still set. It passed emissions testing with flying colors on Friday and the results also show all readiness being set.


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> I did not remove the lower air box completely but reached behind it. I should have read Stephan's post #126.


Looks like you had some fun there. My statement in post #126 is actually only true for the V8 as I have not managed to find a way to get the bottom half of the air filter box out on the W12. One of my W12s is starting to get pink eye and I have new bulbs ready but I'm waiting until I'm ready to replace the secondary radiator which requires front bumper removal and that in turn will give me the chance to just pull the complete headlight assembly out.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Phaetonlvr said:


> Looks like you had some fun there. My statement in post #126 is actually only true for the V8 as I have not managed to find a way to get the bottom half of the air filter box out on the W12. One of my W12s is starting to get pink eye and I have new bulbs ready but I'm waiting until I'm ready to replace the secondary radiator which requires front bumper removal and that in turn will give me the chance to just pull the complete headlight assembly out.


That's disturbing Stephan, but at least I know now. I'll have to edit my novel. 

I did shine a flashlight (torch) but that was just to get a preview of what I was up against. 

My arm was in up to the elbow and I could barely fit it in there around the airbox. I could feel the hole with my finger so I could snake the new bulb around the obstacles hopefully without getting it dirty. 

I don't know if a more manly man could wedge his forearm in there.

-Eric

Edited novel again to elaborate on the tribulations of the lower air box.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Sadly, I have to replace the same bat bulb on the same bat car again. The right light decided not to come on the last two or three times I drove it. The Check Lights warning comes on and the bulb out icon illuminates and the right light is indeed extinguished. 

At first, I could get it to come on by shutting off the ignition and starting it again but that stopped working. I ran a scan and controller 9 had a fault for the right light having a short or open. Controller 39 had a vague fault about the light being defective and the MIL being on. I managed to clear the fault in both controllers and the light magically started working. The next day I drove to Costco and it worked perfectly. After I came back out, the right headlight would not come on. I used my fog lights for the first time going home. Not because they make good headlights but so others could see me. 

At home, I got the faults cleared again the light came on. When I shut off 8486 and turned it back on, the light was out. Clearing the condes did not work this time. The voltages are the same between the right and left lights according to the measuring blocks.

I bought the last bulbs from eBay. They are Osram and look authentic. 

I am searching the forum to see what others are using. Thought I would update this thread while I was here.

I am considering Rock Auto because I am sure they don't sell counterfeit parts and are less expensive than Autozone or Napa. I can get Genuine VW for around $130.00 a bulb. 

I could go cheap because it's not that big a deal to spend all day replacing a bulb if I can save $100.00 or more, but I wouldn't want to be without a headlight on a road trip.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

In my searches last night, I found this thread which shows how to remove the right airbox on the early W12 in post #49:

https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthr...roved-instructions-TOC-Photos-re-hosted/page2

I don't know why I didn't find it before. My search are no good. 

I also found that Osram bulbs were recalled but some made it out to resellers. See post #47

https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4136123-HID-flickering-on-both-headlights/page2

I have not gotten around to replacing the left one yet. It has been flickering from time to time and deciding not to work almost from the time I bought 8486 but decided to work all the time right about the time I replaced the right light.

My new ones are marked as Osram D1S 66144. The one I haven't installed yet has a date code of q2F8. I don't know if that's because they were made in 2002 and are the recalled bulbs or if Osram reset the dates in 2010 like a trip odometer being reset to zero. 

Osram doesn't show 66144 as being in their lineup now. Their DS1 all are 66140 so I am not getting a good feeling from the 66144. However, when I search the Osram website for "66144" it directs me to the headlight page. 66144 is mentioned in the last thread I referenced in post #38 from 2008. Based on the date code of q2F8 and the date of post #38, I am going to err on the side of caution and order new bulbs. I may have to install the "spare" bulb from my used headlight in the mean time. 

This thread mentions that controller 29 is the boss of controller 39 in post #2:

https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthr...add-to-TOC&p=78905540&viewfull=1#post78905540

I reset faults in controller 29 to no avail. The TPMS light was on so I reset the TPMS controller while I was messing around.

I am going to break down and order new bulbs from Rock Auto but am going to put the "spare" bulb in for now. 

In other news, a museum in Dresden was robbed today.


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## RocketVol (Oct 7, 2014)

Hi Eric

i am using OSRAM Nightbreaker Ultimates (66140XNB) in 8229 from powerbulbs.com in the UK. And am using OSRAM Cool Blue Intense on 7834. I like the Cool Blues a little better as they are whiter than the NightBreakers, but i do believe the NightBreakers give a little more light.

Have ordered twice from Powerbulbs and am very happy with price and shipping speed. I think i got both sets of bulbs in the low $100 range.

John


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

RocketVol said:


> Hi Eric
> 
> i am using OSRAM Nightbreaker Ultimates (66140XNB) in 8229 from powerbulbs.com in the UK. And am using OSRAM Cool Blue Intense on 7834. I like the Cool Blues a little better as they are whiter than the NightBreakers, but i do believe the NightBreakers give a little more light.
> 
> ...


Thanks John,

How long have you had the bulbs?

I'd already ordered Hella 4300K from Rock Auto before reading your reply.

Rock Auto actually has a very inexpensive bulb that lists the VW part number as a cross-reference but I chose the Hella 4300K.

They were right around $50.00 a piece with tax. The total with tax and shipping was $103.00 and change. They have a one year warranty. 

The cheapest URO bulbs have a two year warranty. I was very tempted to buy them. They don't have color temperature info on them though. 

The most expensive bulbs Rock Auto carries is AC Delco at $150.79 before tax or shipping. 

I chose the cheapest shipping so they won't be here until next month. I am therefor going to be swapping in the "spare" bulb in until it fails. 

It sounds like your Phaetons mentioned above were born between mine. 

8486 is way more troublesome than 7579 even though it's younger, has less miles and gets driven more often.

-Eric


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## RocketVol (Oct 7, 2014)

Hi Eric and Happy Thanksgiving!

I have had the Nightbreakers a little over 2 years and have been very happy with them. The replaced base Phillips that were 4100K I believe. The Nightbreakers are 4350K and i paid $134 including shipping for 2 of them. The Cool Blue Intense say "up to 7000K" but I have read and believe that they really clock in at around 5000K and they were $128 for both and have had them about a year and a half. 

Yeah, 8229 (115K) is a September 2003 car and 7834 (178K) is August 03. Although 7834 is down right now, leaky flange on top of the gas tank (am cutting floor for that one) and rust induced leak in the power steering supply hardline (am going to use Swagelok and splice that one). Hard to spend $400 on a line for a car that only cost me $800!

John


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Thanks John and happy Black Friday.

I haven't checked the build dates on mine. 

The spare bulb in my junkyard headlight is the same as the new bulb that failed. If I am reading the date code correctly, it's from 2000. 

The Hella bulbs are supposed to arrive today so I decided to wait for them. 

I have some bright bulbs I bought on eBay the same time I bought the eBay Osrams. 

I think I will look for the bulbs you have.

-Eric


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Well, 

I replaced the right headlight bulb with a Hella bulb and did the VCDS adaptation. I didn't manually adjust them, just did the adaptation because I was messing around in both headlight controllers the other day and messed it up.

I managed to remove the right air filter box using the directions in the thread I referenced in post #134. It did not want to come out just by tumbling it around but I finally got it out. He had removed the oil breather hose so I did also. I am not sure it helped because my air box didn't come close to that area. 

The lower air box did not want to pop loose from its grommets. I almost lifted the side of the car up and it still wouldn't pop loose. I had to spray WD-40 penetrating spray and let it souk a half hour or so. I think the grommets were not as pliable as they were in June. 

It did come dangerously close to headlight wiring and the right side Combi valve vacuum tube. I saw some writing on it but I think that was the vacuum tube manufacturer's marks. I could probably get in there and look again but it looked like the markings you find on wire. To see the rest of the vacuum tube would have involved removing more stuff. 

Once I got the lower air box out, I found that getting the bulb out was just as difficult as in post #130. I still had to disconnect the coolant tank and push against the harness. Being cold, the door didn't want to come out (the coolant tank wasn't as pliable and the harness didn't want to budge). It was harder to remove the headlight door than it was in June when I had to reach around the lower air box. Guess what? It was twice as hard to put the door back on. 

Bonus - the plastic parts seemed to be less malleable in the cold. Today was going to be easy, just put it together and adapt the controllers. 

Well, as hard as the bottom air box was to get out, it was twice as hard to put back. I finally got it back in position and remembered to replace the snow screen which I had saved for the next filter change. The duct from the air box lid and MAF to the throttle valve never wants to just go on without giving me a hard time but tonight it looked like it would never go back on. I usually leave the air box lid loose so I can finesse it and the duct at the at the same time. Tonight, after putting the duct into place, the air box lid wouldn't go into place. The duct was pushing the lid an inch forward. Dang cold plastics. I finally decided I had nothing to lose by tightening the air box lid so I did that. This time the air duct bent to my will and I was able to fasten it down. The Snorkel also gave me a hassle but no more than usual. The rest of the reassembly went well.

I didn't replace the left bulb yet. The thread I refenced in post #134 said that it was even harder to replace the left bulb on his W12.

IF the Bentley recommends pulling the bumper cover and removing the headlights to replace the low beam bulbs, I can understand. With my experience on the right headlight bulb, I think it would be faster to just pull the bumper cover and headlights out. Then you could see what you were doing when you replaced the bulb instead of trying to aim it in the dark at weird angles. 

I would go so far as to opine that if you need to pull the bumper cover for some minor reason, just wait until a low beam (dip beam) needs replacing and do it then. 

V6 and V8 Phaetons may be less hassle and perhaps the cold had something to do with 8486 giving me such a hard time today. I had to take a break when I was trying to reinstall the lower air box. The temperature in my garage was in the 30s F but I was sweating. I had to go into my heated house to cool down. 

-Eric


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