# Operation "Phaeton": My fixation on upgrading the standard stereo



## saxtonram (May 30, 2013)

Thank you to those that have inspired me to try and upgrade my stereo to the Premium Amplifier.

I thought I would do a mini blog of the project which started today with the young guns at Good Vibrations in Bozeman, MT (http://www.goodvibrationsmt.com/).

This project was made possible from all the useful and necessary links provided by you on this Forum:

How to wire standard plug for the Premium Amp?
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5914739-Standard-VS-Premium-stereo-info

What is the wiring schematic for the speakers?
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1607530-Where-are-the-12-speakers

How to remove stereo head unit (J523)?
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...f-it-will-not-open-(e.g.-coin-stuck-in-there)
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1683482#post17058040

Where are the speakers?
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1607530

How to remove amp and speakers (door panels)?
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...Panel-Removal-Bass-Speaker-Broken-Wire-Repair

How to remove CD changer?
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5148540-Installed-iPod-for-Phaeton


Here is what I am planning to do and what equipment I am installing.

First, I needed some device to give me axillary input to the stereo (iPod etc). Rather than connecting to the antenna, I opted for the Mediabridge now made by Audiovox that replaces the CD changer and offers multiple types of connections including bluetooth. I purchased the AMBR-1502-AVW model for Bentley Continental the from iPodCarPros.com (http://www.ipodcarpros.com/Bluetooth_Adapters/c9/p580/AMBR-1502-AVW/product_info.html).

Second, I needed to replace the utility of the CD changer that will be removed. Initially I planned to use an iPod and have my cellphone, but decided to buy from eBay a new Samsung Note 2 with will let me have phone and music features on one device. 

Subsequently, I have burned all my CDs to iTunes and will use Android apps (https://play.google.com/store/apps/...wxLDEwOSwiY29tLmpydHN0dWRpby5pU3luY3I0TWFjIl0.) to sync and play iTunes from the Samsung using the USB connection for better sound. 

I searched a lot of cell phone holders for cars, and will use the Steelie Car Phone Holder Kit (https://www.niteize.com/product/Steelie-Car-Mount-Kit.asp) because it is cool and efficient.

Third, I sourced and purchased a used Premium Amp from Car-parts.com and paid extra for three feet of pigtail including the connectors from the donating vehicle harness. I suspect the tricky and time consuming part of the project will be the rewiring of the original connector and harness to work with the Premium Amp. I will be relieved when this is done and the tell tale "DSP" appears on the information display to confirm the Premium Amp coding has been accepted.

Fourth - assuming the amp works - I will be replacing the base speakers in all four doors. Rather than Hertz, I will be using Pioneer TS D1720C speakers (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Speakers/D-Series/TS-D1720C).

Despite this careful planning, I have to areas of uncertainty and welcome advice:

1. I was not planning on installing the missing tweeters in the door handles. From most threads I have read, I am not sure I would hear the difference to justify the effort and expense. Agree?

2. I am drooling over adding a Kicker powered subwoofer (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_31844_Kicker-PECVR12-11PECVR12.html), but am not sure I will get the full effect with such a long car and insulated trunk. Opinions?

Anyway, hope I am not boring you. Just a little excited. Will update you on progress tomorrow.

Nic


----------



## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

Hi Saxtonram,
I upgraded my audio system a couple of days ago, so my advice would be as follows:
- The most tricky part is the amplifier wiring. As you already know you have to swap the pins from the original grey and green connectors to the black ones. This is a very lengthy, painstaking and delicate operation. I did not have a tool to remove te pins, so I used two pin nails to push the tabs and a small screwdriver to push the pins out of the original connectors. There are several thick wires which are okeish to remove, but there are several thin ones that are a PITA to remove. Be very gentle with them, otherwise there is a risk that you either damage the actual pin or break the wire.
- The amplifier on my Phaeton sits on the right hand side of the luggate compartment, behind the starter battery. You do not need to remove the battery to take it off. Just loosen the three bolts that hold the battery in place and move it out of the way.
- You will have to unplug the two connectors in order to remove the amplifier. That is quite complex, because there is hardly any room for the hands, since there is a plastic guide that routes the starter battery leads and some other wire harnesses in the middle of the way.
- In order to rewire the connectors I sat inside the lugagge compartment. It took me several hours to complete the job, so from time to time get out and stretch your legs and make sure that you have several beers handy.
- Do not place the new 12 way amp into its support at the beggining of the process. Do all the wiring first. Once that is finished connect the amp to the black plugs, get into the car and turn on the audio system. Make sure that all the DSP functions work, that you have sound comming from all four doors, that the telephone and the parking aid are fine, and fiddle with the balance and fader settings to check that the audio system operates accordingly.
- The most important thing: BE VERY PATIENT, THINK TWICE BEFORE INSERTING THE PINS INTO THE NEW PLUGS AND BE GENTLE. If you feel tired or bored live it for the next day. It is not a difficult project, just very time consuming.
I hope it helps, should you have any doubt do not hesitate to send me a PM.

Gabriel


----------



## saxtonram (May 30, 2013)

*Finished Project*

So the installation of the upgraded Amp and supporting speakers is completed. 

As suspected the replugging for the premium amp took a lot of time, but the guy who did it modified a tool that made it go pretty quick in the end. 

I did replace the missing mid range speakers in the front doors with the VW OEM replacement part (). 

I did also replace the front door pillar tweeters with a pair of Alpine SPR-10TW: 

1" silk dome tweeters (pair) 
flush-, top-, and bottom-mount hardware included 
external crossovers with 4-way level control 
power handling: 5-150 watts RMS (450 watts peak power) 
frequency response: 1,000-29,000 Hz 
impedance: 4 ohms 
sensitivity: 88 dB 
flush-mount depth: 11/16" 

And I did the necessary change out of all four bass speakers in the doors with Pioneer TS-D1720C (saved the tweeters and crossovers for another project): 

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Speakers/D-Series/TS-D1720C 

The only glitch was my use of the Audiovox Mediabridge which did not work reliably, so I am swapping it out for a Denson unit that I hope will arrive this week. 

Sounds great! The Premium Amp obviously makes a big difference and I like some of the DSP settings. And I have to say I am glad I replaced the missing midrange speakers in the front doors - if only for my psychological benefit. 

Nic


----------



## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Have you succeeded in stabilising the top end with the tweeter/mid/crossover adjustments? My basic audio has some pretty glaring peaks, noticeable when listening to orchestral pieces. 

Chris


----------



## saxtonram (May 30, 2013)

Hello Chris 

The Premium Amp does all the crossover internally, so we could not adjust anything. I did turn down the treble in the head unit. I also tend to listen to bass music, so tend to avoid the high peaks. Overall, I would say the Premium Amp has more weight in the bass end. 

Also, the person who did the install used a special tool to rewire the plug for the Premium Amp: " 
It wasn't easy at first but after 10 or so the remainder weren't so bad. If he were to ask a Snap-on for a 'pin extraction kit' this is most likely the only solution they will have. TT600-1 is the exact tool if it were purchased by itself from Snap-on. The small metal prongs come inside the new tool when you unscrew and remove the brass colored insert. I took the middle of the 3 different sized metal prongs (looks like mechanical pencil lead), bent it in half and inserted and tightened into the brass part of the tool. That gave the 'fork' that allowed me to extract the pins out. " 

Hope this is informative. 

nic


----------



## vwgeorge2 (Mar 24, 2008)

*270 watt system upgrade*



saxtonram said:


> So the installation of the upgraded Amp and supporting speakers is completed.
> 
> As suspected the replugging for the premium amp took a lot of time, but the guy who did it modified a tool that made it go pretty quick in the end.
> 
> ...


After a detailed search, I think this thread would be a great starting point, please read below.


Nic, All,

Im looking to go a similar route except I already have the 270 watt stereo, I want to invest mainly by using top quality speakers with high sensitivity and output to get the most out of the stock 12 channel amp. Let me ask a few questions here?

1. Overall how much improvement did you notice by adding a few new speakers?
2. How many powered channels are in the 270 watt system?
3. Are they bi-amp style channels ie hi/mid/low freq?
4. Is there a dedicated 0-5V line level output that I may add a separate amp or two?
5. Does anyone have printed knowledge of the actual RMS power per channel of the 270 watt system?
6. In your opinion...If I add a seperate amp, should I tap power from the starter battery or the accessory battery?
7. Does anyone have a few high quality/clear pictures of the 270 watt system door speakers as a whole?

Thanks in advance

Bill


BTW, im not wholly impressed by the 270 watt system as far as power goes... it seems very weak for 270 watts? But.....The DSP is awesome though!

This system has the potential to be completely awesome! I will update my thread as this project unfolds. "Phaeton maintenance the final fantasy"


----------



## David47 (Nov 12, 2013)

Reading this with interest.
One question though. 
Other than the DSP amplifier, what other components are required to upgrade from the standard stereo to the upgraded model. I'm still learning about my Phaeton and I only just realised yesterday that the tweeter grilles next to the door catches only have terminated wires behind them and no actual tweeters.


----------



## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

Hi David,
1) You would have to replace the amplifier and rewire the connectors. Installing the upgraded amplifier is not that difficult, however swaping the pins from the stock connectors to the DSP amplifier connectors is delicate and time consuming.
2) You would have to replace the bass loudspeakers both at the front and rear doors. It is not very difficult, it is just a matter of removing the door panels gently, undoing some bolts and plugging the upgraded speakers.
3) You would have to install the mid-tweeters on both front doors. The very part does not exist as a Phaeton part, you would have to purchase a Touareg part. Not too difficult. It is a matter of disassembling the wood trim, and it is also quite likely that you would have to remove some plastic from the actual speaker housings in orther for them to fit.
4) You would have to install the wires to power the mid-tweeters from the amplifier to the fron doors. Not difficult, but quite time consuming. Bear in mind that you would have to remove all the boot linning, route the wires along the wire looms in the boot and guide them from the boot into the front doors. See the pictures below.

This is the amplifier end of the wires.










Wires running alongside the harness by the wheel arch.









Wires running alongside the harness below the rear shelve.



















Wires routed into the cabin behind the rear seat back rest.










I guided the wires from behind the rear seat backrest towards the A pillar hiding them underneath the bottom door sills. As the slot depicted below is not used to fasten the A pillar cover I ised it to route the wires onto the door through the rubber boot.



















Below you can see the wires tie-wrapped onto the door wiring loom. The trickiest part is to actually guide them inside the door panel so that they do not catch onto the window regulator mechanism. To sort it out I tie-wrapped the wires onto a U shaped plastic support that routes the original door wire loom inside the door panels.









After sweating, swearing and bruised hands the final result. 










Gabriel


----------



## saxtonram (May 30, 2013)

Hi David

Unfortunately, my forte with car stereos is being able to find good installers and saving money to by good components. I have very little knowledge on the technical side. However, I will make one observation and one recommendation. First, I invested in very efficient speakers. The models I used are amongst the best provided by Alpine and Panasonic. Adding a powered sub-woofer in the trunk also helps fill in the gaps. The net result is a very clean and powerful sound. At maximum, I run the volume at about 8/10 power. I could not imagine every wanting more volume than this. And I say this as a guy who seeks very loud music. Second, as Gabriel points out, you only need to change the cable, but the cable pins are different for the 10 and 12 channel amps. So this wire swapping is the only really tedious task. See earlier in this thread the description of the modified tool my installer used to make this less frustrating.

Sorry I can not be of more technical help, but now that you have Gabriel helping you it will be a breeze. He also helped me with suggestions while I was in this process. Hurray for Gabriel!

Nic


----------



## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

Hi Nic,
I trully appreciate your compliments! And I am really glad to hear that you found my suggestions useful. 
In any case I think that this is what this forum is all about, to help each other whenever we are able to. We can all contribute in one way or another, despite our different backgrounds, knowledge, abilities, nationalities and so on. Gathering them all, makes this forum great!

Gabriel


----------



## vwgeorge2 (Mar 24, 2008)

saxtonram said:


> my forte with car stereos is being able to find good installers and saving money to by good components. I have very little knowledge on the technical side. However, I will make one observation and one recommendation. First, I invested in very efficient speakers. The models I used are amongst the best provided by Alpine and Panasonic. Adding a powered sub-woofer in the trunk also helps fill in the gaps. The net result is a very clean and powerful sound. At maximum, I run the volume at about 8/10 power. I could not imagine every wanting more volume than this. And I say this as a guy who seeks very loud music.
> 
> Sorry I can not be of more technical help, but now that you have Gabriel helping you it will be a breeze. He also helped me with suggestions while I was in this process. Hurray for Gabriel!
> 
> Nic



Good info!


Anyone know where I can find the specs of the Phaeton 270 watt amplifier? Maybe a Phaeton electronics guru?


----------



## David47 (Nov 12, 2013)

Are the standard and premium speaker setups identical other than the extra tweeter pair in the front doors?
Really tempted to try this as the opinion seems to be the premium system is such an improvement.


----------



## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

Hi David,
Yeap, other than the two extra mid-tweeters and the four bass speakers, which in the premium system have lower impedance, broader frequency output and higher output rating, everything else is the same. 

Gabriel


----------



## David47 (Nov 12, 2013)

Sorry for yet more questions.
I know on a car with the standard stereo the front doors have no tweeters fitted, do the rear doors also have no tweeters?
What is the part number for the premium amp? I'm assuming (hoping) there are only two Phaeton amplifiers, standard and premium. Is this correct?


----------



## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

Hi David,
All Phaetons have tweeters in the front doors. They are behind the small triangular grille, located between the door panel upper section and the window frame. However, only those Phaetons that feature the premium or Dynaudio sound system have "mid-tweeters" in the wood inserts. Regarding the rear doors, neither the standard, nor premium, nor Dynaudio sound systems do have tweeters, only mid-tweeters similar to those of the front doors.
About the premium amplifier part number, have a look at post #43 here, it is very illustrative.
I hope it helps.

Gabriel


----------



## David47 (Nov 12, 2013)

Thanks Gabriel, it seems like everyone knows more about this stuff than I do 
So if I'm right, all I need to do is the following:-

Add the pair of small tweeters to the front door handles.
Buy and install (including the relevant wiring changes to the connector plugs) one of these
12-channel amplifiers.
•3D0 035 456A -- 12ch 3D3 car with s/n less than 8000 -- dropped 12/2003, use 3D0 035 466
•3D0 035 466 -- 12ch 3D3 car with s/n less than 8000 -- dropped 04/2005, use 3D0 035 466A
Later cars ('8-way' and '12-way' description dropped)
•3D0 035 465B -- option 9VJ (normal) -- 3D9 car to 2009 with s/n less than 6000
•3D0 035 465C -- option 9VJ (normal) -- 2009 with s/n higher than 10001
•3D0 035 466A -- option 9VE (digital) -- 3D9 car to 2009 with s/n less than 6000

(My car is a 2006. Does this count as a later car? What does 3D9/3D5 mean? Which, in your opinion, would be suitable for my car?)

Then I'm assuming there's some VCDS coding to tell the car the new kit is fitted?


----------



## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

Hi again David,
I guess that Chris meant that later cars were those manufactured from 2009 onwards. AFAIK 3D0, 3D5 and 3D9 are manufacturing codes, however I do not exactly know their meaning.
Regarding the amplifier part number I would say that you should go for 3D0 035 466A. It seems to be the suitable part as it is the last non-dynaudio amplifier. The amp I purchased has this part number and it has been working flawlessly so far.
Once it is installed you do not need to recode anything, the DSP button should show up on the infotainment screen as soon as the amplifier is plugged.
Also, do not forget to replace the bass speakers of the front doors and the rear doors in order to have the proper digital sound system. As I mentioned earlier, they have a broader frequency spectrum and are more powerful that the stock 8 channel bass speakers.

Gabriel


----------



## Widescreen111 (Sep 19, 2015)

*Upgrade with non-dynaudio (2003) amplifier on 2009/04 Phaeton ?*



Gabs08PHTN said:


> Hi again David,
> I guess that Chris meant that later cars were those manufactured from 2009 onwards. AFAIK 3D0, 3D5 and 3D9 are manufacturing codes, however I do not exactly know their meaning.
> Regarding the amplifier part number I would say that you should go for 3D0 035 466A. It seems to be the suitable part as it is the last non-dynaudio amplifier. The amp I purchased has this part number and it has been working flawlessly so far.
> Once it is installed you do not need to recode anything, the DSP button should show up on the infotainment screen as soon as the amplifier is plugged.
> ...


8-channel unit 3D0035465C pin layout comp. to 12-channel unit 3D0035456A ?

Hi Gabriel or anyone else with good info.
As titled I´m trying to upgrade with 12-channel unit 3D0035456A on my 2009/04 Phaeton which has 8-channel unit 3D0035465C.
I did not get any sound, and went back to orig.setup.
All the rewiring on the plugs is correctly done acc. the info here at the forum.
Is this because of the different CAN bus version or has the ampilifier pin layout changed since 2003 ?
Should I have purchased 3D0 035 466B for my car
Cheers !
Leo


----------

