# MAP sensor replaced now what?



## ninesixfive (Dec 5, 2009)

Before i begin I'm sure someone will tell me that this has been posted a million times and to search the forum for the answer, well i did and didn't see anything. Anyways, I had fault p0106 for the pcv valve and another for the MAP sensor (or vise versa). I replaced the valve cover and the MAP sensor to repair the problems. The stealership wanted $800 to fix it with diag, so $260 and about an hour later repairs were complete. I don't have a scan tool so i figured i would just drive until the CEL went out but its been about 450 miles and its still on. I went to autozone and they let me borrow their tool to shut the light off last night but it came back on about 20 miles later.

My questions: Any idea when this will go out? Should i take the sensor out and clean it again? Is there a way to clean the residual oil that leaked from the bad PCV valve out of the manifold to stop the sensor from continuing to get fowled?

Thanks in advance


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## Jack Watts (Jul 19, 2015)

ninesixfive said:


> Before i begin I'm sure someone will tell me that this has been posted a million times and to search the forum for the answer, well i did and didn't see anything. Anyways, I had fault p0106 for the pcv valve and another for the MAP sensor (or vise versa). I replaced the valve cover and the MAP sensor to repair the problems. The stealership wanted $800 to fix it with diag, so $260 and about an hour later repairs were complete. I don't have a scan tool so i figured i would just drive until the CEL went out but its been about 450 miles and its still on. I went to autozone and they let me borrow their tool to shut the light off last night but it came back on about 20 miles later.
> 
> My questions: Any idea when this will go out? Should i take the sensor out and clean it again? Is there a way to clean the residual oil that leaked from the bad PCV valve out of the manifold to stop the sensor from continuing to get fowled?
> 
> Thanks in advance


How thoroughly did you clean everything? I'd start by pulling the PCV and air intake hose, throttle body and MAP sensor again, shoot some cleaner through everything and reassemble. You could also use something like the 3M intake manifold cleaner (the one with the hose that goes right before the throttle body). I used it as preventative maintenance at 120K, but I wasn't having issues. It should help clean things up, along with a spirited highway drive after you run it through. If you do all that and the code comes back, then I'd start chasing other stuff.


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

ninesixfive said:


> Before i begin I'm sure someone will tell me that this has been posted a million times and to search the forum for the answer, well i did and didn't see anything. Anyways, I had fault p0106 for the pcv valve and another for the MAP sensor (or vise versa). I replaced the valve cover and the MAP sensor to repair the problems. The stealership wanted $800 to fix it with diag, so $260 and about an hour later repairs were complete. I don't have a scan tool so i figured i would just drive until the CEL went out but its been about 450 miles and its still on. I went to autozone and they let me borrow their tool to shut the light off last night but it came back on about 20 miles later.
> 
> My questions: Any idea when this will go out? Should i take the sensor out and clean it again? Is there a way to clean the residual oil that leaked from the bad PCV valve out of the manifold to stop the sensor from continuing to get fowled?
> 
> Thanks in advance


http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?8782802-14-2-5L-repeated-P0106
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...n-again-vortexers-09-Rabbit-P0106-P2178-P2188

In the same boat as many, unfortunately. Are you experiecing any symptoms? Or just the CEL? There is a software update (TSB 2034012) that may be a fix (or may not be).

I've had this issue for around 3 months. Replaced MAP, and PCV as well as cleaned out TB and the intake manifold. I'm taking mine to the dealer tomorrow for them to diagnose.


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## ninesixfive (Dec 5, 2009)

Thanks for the help/input. I've been busy, but last night I found time to take out the sensor, clean it, and sprayed a s ton of carb cleaner into the manifold to get the remaining oil residue to rinse out through the sensor port (didn't know another way to clean it). It all dried out and looked pretty good. I put it back together, hopefully after a few miles the light will go out. if i have time i might swing by autozone to try and erase the fault again. I'll keep everyone posted and let you know if more faults were set. Fingers crossed. If it doesn't work, might just bite the bullet and take it to an independent shop to see how they handle it. Anyone know of a good VW shop in the Boston (north) area?

Thanks again


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## bmurray716 (Mar 11, 2010)

see my thread posts here

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7720330-000262-and-01314-Faults-Related&p=108102073&viewfull=1#post108102073


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## Ronny Bensys (Apr 17, 2014)

Cleaning the intake and replacing the valve cover are a useless waste of time and money.

P0106, as discussed many times basically means your engine load doesn't match the throttle valve response. The DTC is closely related to the air intake system components, like MAP sensor and TB. Vacuum leak and leaking injectors can also cause P0106.


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## ninesixfive (Dec 5, 2009)

Just to update, I dropped my car off to have it looked at by a local shop while I was away last week They had their local software guy check that my ECU has the latest version which it does, and they decided that all I needed was a new air filter... so I doubtfully said yeah go ahead. the code cleared and when I picked it up the CEL was off and stayed off for about 40mi. The light has been back on and I haven't had much time to do any actual diagnosis; however, I do have an OBD dongle now and can use that torque app to see some stuff. 

After I clear the P2188 code that seems to keep coming back the car will drive about 20-30mi before it comes back on. I decide to use that torque app to watch my fuel trims (which i was pretty impressed that I could actually do, not bad for $25) and the car runs in what i believe are normal ranges (+/- 5 short term and long) for ~15mi then starts to go haywire and pump out long term fuel trim of <-25. After clearing the code a few times and watching the trims while driving (real safe, I know) I noticed, actually felt, when the trim started to become out of range. There is a slight feeling of a bump or hesitation, almost not noticeable. Also, the short term fuel trim stays in range when throttle is applied, otherwise it takes a nosedive when stopped or not in gear and skyrockets while coasting in gear. So, I thought that was pretty interesting. I then noticed that no matter how lightly I apply throttle or stop applying throttle I get the same feeling, the best way to describe the feeling is the feeling you get when you drop the accelerator pedal quickly and it snaps shut or mash and it opens quickly, just not so jerky.

After all this, reading through bmurray716's thread, plus much more, I decided to go ahead and order a new TB. It should be in later this week. I'll update with results, thanks for the help. 

Do I need an actual VGS to do a TB alignment or can I just disconnect the battery for a bit after replacing? Will the new TB even need one?


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

ninesixfive said:


> Just to update, I dropped my car off to have it looked at by a local shop while I was away last week They had their local software guy check that my ECU has the latest version which it does, and they decided that all I needed was a new air filter... so I doubtfully said yeah go ahead. the code cleared and when I picked it up the CEL was off and stayed off for about 40mi. The light has been back on and I haven't had much time to do any actual diagnosis; however, I do have an OBD dongle now and can use that torque app to see some stuff.
> 
> After I clear the P2188 code that seems to keep coming back the car will drive about 20-30mi before it comes back on. I decide to use that torque app to watch my fuel trims (which i was pretty impressed that I could actually do, not bad for $25) and the car runs in what i believe are normal ranges (+/- 5 short term and long) for ~15mi then starts to go haywire and pump out long term fuel trim of <-25. After clearing the code a few times and watching the trims while driving (real safe, I know) I noticed, actually felt, when the trim started to become out of range. There is a slight feeling of a bump or hesitation, almost not noticeable. Also, the short term fuel trim stays in range when throttle is applied, otherwise it takes a nosedive when stopped or not in gear and skyrockets while coasting in gear. So, I thought that was pretty interesting. I then noticed that no matter how lightly I apply throttle or stop applying throttle I get the same feeling, the best way to describe the feeling is the feeling you get when you drop the accelerator pedal quickly and it snaps shut or mash and it opens quickly, just not so jerky.
> 
> ...


Please keep me updated on this. Your symptoms sounds EXACTLY like mine. My fuel trims go wonky the exact moment my car starts nosediving/jerking.

I checked my TB last night with my VAG scanner and it was fine. Valve sensor 1 @ 12.9 and Valve sensor 2 @ 86.7.

I'm curious, does your car ever smell of gas on a cold start?


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## ninesixfive (Dec 5, 2009)

kieran123 said:


> Please keep me updated on this. Your symptoms sounds EXACTLY like mine. My fuel trims go wonky the exact moment my car starts nosediving/jerking.
> 
> I checked my TB last night with my VAG scanner and it was fine. Valve sensor 1 @ 12.9 and Valve sensor 2 @ 86.7.
> 
> I'm curious, does your car ever smell of gas on a cold start?


I also forgot to mention that the first time the CEL came on after getting it back from the shop the EPC light came on as well. Car didn't go into limp mode or anything but didn't come on again when re started. It has come on one other time since, but went out again with restart, this was another reason i was leaning towards the TB and decided to just go for it. For a fuel smell, do you mean stronger than normal from the exhaust, or your smelling it in the cabin? I haven't noticed any fuel smell but I also don't hang out behind my car or outside it once I'm in it and have it started. As far as the throttle sensor voltages, this is where the torque app starts to not be so good, i can see the throttle position in percentage at the pedal, and at about three other throttle positions. The values seem normal, but I don't fully trust that the throttle is moving to its maximum and minimum or that if it is, the value that is being reported is representing the actual motion due to some sort of internally shorting potentiometer, like if the needle is loose or something (I imagine that the only way to monitor the position of the throttle is with the use of potenitometers, anything else would be too costly).


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

ninesixfive said:


> I also forgot to mention that the first time the CEL came on after getting it back from the shop the EPC light came on as well. Car didn't go into limp mode or anything but didn't come on again when re started. It has come on one other time since, but went out again with restart, this was another reason i was leaning towards the TB and decided to just go for it. For a fuel smell, do you mean stronger than normal from the exhaust, or your smelling it in the cabin? I haven't noticed any fuel smell but I also don't hang out behind my car or outside it once I'm in it and have it started. As far as the throttle sensor voltages, this is where the torque app starts to not be so good, i can see the throttle position in percentage at the pedal, and at about three other throttle positions. The values seem normal, but I don't fully trust that the throttle is moving to its maximum and minimum or that if it is, the value that is being reported is representing the actual motion due to some sort of internally shorting potentiometer, like if the needle is loose or something (I imagine that the only way to monitor the position of the throttle is with the use of potenitometers, anything else would be too costly).


You should invest in an OBDII scanner. It would have been interesting to see what codes the EPC light would have thrown (like new ones on top of P0106)


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

ninesixfive said:


> Do I need an actual VGS to do a TB alignment or can I just disconnect the battery for a bit after replacing? Will the new TB even need one?


Sorry, didn't answer this. You will need to do an adaptation with the new TB. There are rumours disconnecting and reconnecting the battery does this, but am not sure if this is true. I am sure the VW dealership or VW local shop can do it for you with the VAGCOM (takes 2 minutes)


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## ninesixfive (Dec 5, 2009)

kieran123 said:


> Sorry, didn't answer this. You will need to do an adaptation with the new TB. There are rumours disconnecting and reconnecting the battery does this, but am not sure if this is true. I am sure the VW dealership or VW local shop can do it for you with the VAGCOM (takes 2 minutes)


So I have the TB but I’m waiting to put it in until I have time to get it to a shop for the adaptation. Assuming it’s something that doesn’t set with a battery disconnect and my car will act funky without it.


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## ninesixfive (Dec 5, 2009)

So I went ahead and replaced the TB yesterday after I said I wasn’t going to hah. Anyways I disconnected the battery while I was doing it hoping it would do the adaptation once I was done and had the battery reconnecte. It didn’t at first, but after clearing faults and running the engine for a few minutes I heard the adaptation run when I shut the car off. I have since driven about 65 mi and have had no faults come back yet. The light was usually coming on in about 20-30 miles. I have also noticed there is no more clunky feeling in my pedal when lightly pressing and releasing. Last thing I noticed which I hadn’t related to the problem before is that when I cancel cruise control by tapping my break, clutch, or cancel button I don’t get a sort of clunk when the ecu releases the throttle. I figured that was normal but now that it’s not there I know it wasn’t. Things are looking good. I’m going on a long drive this afternoon and if the light doesn’t come back then I guess we’re done here. Thanks for everyone’s help, hope this thread might help someone else.


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## bmurray716 (Mar 11, 2010)

ninesixfive said:


> So I went ahead and replaced the TB yesterday after I said I wasn’t going to hah. Anyways I disconnected the battery while I was doing it hoping it would do the adaptation once I was done and had the battery reconnecte. It didn’t at first, but after clearing faults and running the engine for a few minutes I heard the adaptation run when I shut the car off. I have since driven about 65 mi and have had no faults come back yet. The light was usually coming on in about 20-30 miles. I have also noticed there is no more clunky feeling in my pedal when lightly pressing and releasing. Last thing I noticed which I hadn’t related to the problem before is that when I cancel cruise control by tapping my break, clutch, or cancel button I don’t get a sort of clunk when the ecu releases the throttle. I figured that was normal but now that it’s not there I know it wasn’t. Things are looking good. I’m going on a long drive this afternoon and if the light doesn’t come back then I guess we’re done here. Thanks for everyone’s help, hope this thread might help someone else.


sounds good. fingers crossed that you are done


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

ninesixfive said:


> So I went ahead and replaced the TB yesterday after I said I wasn’t going to hah. Anyways I disconnected the battery while I was doing it hoping it would do the adaptation once I was done and had the battery reconnecte. It didn’t at first, but after clearing faults and running the engine for a few minutes I heard the adaptation run when I shut the car off. I have since driven about 65 mi and have had no faults come back yet. The light was usually coming on in about 20-30 miles. I have also noticed there is no more clunky feeling in my pedal when lightly pressing and releasing. Last thing I noticed which I hadn’t related to the problem before is that when I cancel cruise control by tapping my break, clutch, or cancel button I don’t get a sort of clunk when the ecu releases the throttle. I figured that was normal but now that it’s not there I know it wasn’t. Things are looking good. I’m going on a long drive this afternoon and if the light doesn’t come back then I guess we’re done here. Thanks for everyone’s help, hope this thread might help someone else.


Awesome news, keep us posted on how it goes please!


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## ninesixfive (Dec 5, 2009)

still no issues btw... months later. No issues at all haven't seen the cel since the replacement.


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

ninesixfive said:


> still no issues btw... months later. No issues at all haven't seen the cel since the replacement.


Good news. That's two people I have seen that have had this issue fixed by a new TB.


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

That's usually the last resort.

If the thorough intake plenum/pcv hose cleaning does not remedy the issue, then suspect the TB.

We learned this a few years back with one of the members here.


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