# My 1993 Gol GL 1846cc turbo intercooled 8 valves project! 350hp



## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

*1993 Gol 1846cc turbo intercooled 8 valves 283whp w/fueltech FT450*

Welcome to my project! My name is Leonardo, I live in Uruguay and this is my new project that I want to share with you guys! I'm the proud owner of this 1993 Gol GL 1.8 with a ea827 engine, just like alot of vw mk1/2/3 and some audis 80 100 5000 etc

Some pictures of the car before the new project. This ones are from 2016 from a VW meet
























Some stuff that can't be seen easily

















Here's the list of parts going into this project, I got a used stock block with documentation that didn't run in 17 years..

Proyect 1846cc

Block: Stock ea827 bored to 82.55 from 81mm
Pistons: Iasa Forjed 82.5mm
Rods: Scat 144mm (if you don't know this brand these are also forjed)
Pin: SPAturbo 20mm good for up to 1000hp
Crankshaft: Golf 1.8 Forjed with 8 counterweights (86,4mm)
Flywheel: Stock from a Gol 1.6 Diesel (these are a bit heavy but give great inertia)

Cylinder Head: Stock from Gol mk1 
Springs: Double Springs from Ancona for solid lifters, good for 7500rpm 
Camshaft: 049G Gol Gts (specs: adm 260º exhaust 266º / Lift adm 10,3 exhaust 10,8 / LC 110º / 44º crossover) Very used in turbo gols in Uruguay, Brasil and Argentina
Valves: adm/esc Stock Mahle adm 38mm exhaust 33mm
Conducts were polish and work to make them flow better (this was DIY there will be pics)

Wastegate MCS good for boost control
Boost Control from MS2 using the N75 selenoid
Turbine Housing .60 Master Power modified at home to fit a Garret Airresearch old turbo .63/.38, after the mods its .63/.60 with a 49mm rotor
Ebay Fuel pressure regulator (also have the stock one with the stock fuel ramp)
Aluminium fuel ramp
Bosch 044 Fuel pump, 200lph at 5bar (very nice)

SPA 60-2 Trigger wheel for EDIS
Bosch Coil for Vectra 3 cables (I think you guys may know it as the chevrolet vectra/astra or vauxhall)
Rotation sensor for Fiat Uno MTE Thompson
Headbolts Forjed from SPAturbo good for up to 600hp

Now to the pictures! Taking apart the old engine to clean up and allow me to work easier

































The old engine was poorly build by a mechanic the first time I turbo charged the car, some of the problems I found was, the rods were hitting the pistons inside chewing material and making later force generating oil vent, bad compression and the space between cylinders and pistons became 0.9mm in some cylinders others 0.7, when 0.6 was the max allowed by piston manufacturer.. this is why I decided to build a new engine mostly by myself. Ended up buying an used engine to start from scratch







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Arriving of the "new" old engine

















































Golf Crank when bought









After a mild clean up to head to the shop









More and more arriving, blow off, rods, inox filter, forjed screws for the flywheel, aluminium fuel ramp









Edis "kit", I picked each part individualy thinking it could work out very well with ms2,wasted spark coil, tooth wheel 60-2, rotation sensor









Waste gate, forjed head bolts, waste gate to boost control line









Pistons and pins









Oil spacer for oil cooler (still need the cooler and lines, probably will be done in step 2 of the project)









Springs









Catch tank made by one of my wife's cousings, very helpful 1/2inc tubing or 12.5mm









Oil vapor catch tank









Injectores, fuel pump support









Installing the MS2 in the car









Fuse box caos, I will try to fix it or do my best (probably this summer Jan-March)









MS2 Almost working (first install now I will have to re do some of the wiring)









14 inch wheels from stock Saveiro mk2-3 4x100










Time for the blueprint of the head, lucky me I have 2 heads exactly the same thanks to the old engine that came complete, so I could make some mystakes on the process since I never did this before. Some tools for the jobs, thanks jegs! Eastwood carbide bids, and lots of sanding rolls









































































After sending it to the shop











Turbos, my garret on the left(.63/.38), my friends master power on the righ (.42/.60)









the making of frankestein

























Back from the shop after balacing


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## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

Fuel pumo (bosch 044), Security Voltage Key On Off, wiring heat protection up to 649ºC with peaks of 1093ºC, gotta protect the wiring! Security first, "fire bad"

















The project is now on a "stop" while I wait for headgaskets, new valve cover, and other stuff that should arrive in the next 10 days. I also got distracted working on my fatherinlaw 120y datsun that's almost ready to go out on to the streets.


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## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

Happy new year to all! Hope this 2018 brings alot of joy to us VW owners!

Back to the project.. started to take apart the cabin to do some work on the floor, so seats out, carpet out..etc

































There was still some water in between the carpets..

































"Clean floor", no console

























Had to call a bodyshop to inquiry about the cost of fixing this, results 1100usd to fix this, take the rust out and paint the floor.. seriously doubting this


















More parts, water pump with metal rotor, water pump body, and thermostat, new oil filter and coolant









Headgasket triple layer, exhaust manifold gasket in metal, same for intake manifold, Ricoh forjed head studs good for 600hp, another fuel rail (atm I have 3, 2 aluminium and one stock from vw), new valve cover, and a cut distributor to fit the new project with the toothed wheel, to keep the oil pump pumping!









Any feedback is appreciated, cheers


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## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

Thanks for al the feedback.. 

Did some scotchbrite passes on the floor, this is after sanding and "scotchbriting"









After that, I decided to take the block out, no hood pic!









Engine secure, safety first.









Going up!









Out









After alot of thinking, 1100usd for this repair is insane. So I asked my fatherinlaw for his inverter solder, I barely know how to soder. After a while, using a 2.0mm electrode, 60 amp, using a peeled 2.5mm electrode as added material to avoid burning the original metal (so thin..)

























now back to work. Cheers


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## Kwabena (Mar 29, 2002)

Wow man, impressive!

I wanted a Gol years ago, now I do again 

Keep up the good work!


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## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

Kwabena said:


> Wow man, impressive!
> 
> I wanted a Gol years ago, now I do again
> 
> Keep up the good work!


Thanks for the kind words! Had some setbacks, the machine shop ****ed up twice on my engine, had to send it to a different shop. That second shop was supposed to deliver my engine, crank, rods, pistons etc friday 26/2. It was bad, they went on holidays and when I went to the shop to get my engine, it was closed!! 

ATM I'm at Porto Alegre, Brasil to do a level 2 course on Fueltech EFI. So I will do my best to put up the pictures in order. I won't get more into all the **** that happend on these last 3 weeks but I'm loosing tons of money and some motivation, lucky me I'm stubborn.

Back to the project! So finished up the both sides of the floor, there was some superficial rust on the drivers side. Also applied polyurethane paste where the original "gue" was letting go









































Since I wasn't going to have the engine ready to build, I decided to keep going on the rest of the car without going too deep. Time to get the gearbox out! The crank seal leaked on the gearbox side so it was a nasty mess









































After a good cleanup

















Here's the original cradle with imohr grills for the wheels









After a cleanup, and a paint job

























More imohr bars, the one to the left is the torsion bar that sits below. The other 2 (actuall 4) are connected from a bar in the front, to the cradle (2) and 1 to each wheel grill (2)

















On the right you can see the bar that connects to the 4 bars mentioned above

















Out of the car!

















Time to clean up the engine bay, sand it down and prep it for base paint. (wasn't going to do this, but the extra time waiting for the engine made me do it. Cant just sit around waiting and do nothing). Wires to the side, out of the way!!









Battery tray had some superficial rust too









Front bumper with it soul and lights, took all of it out together so its easier to mount back

















Some more polyurethane where the original gue was gone or bad shape









Prep for paint (all the final steps for painting (cleaning, sanding was done this last 2 days, mostly was done today before I left to the airport) this was done kinda in a rush due to my trip, had to paint it before leaving or all my work would go to the trash if it has to sit 1 week with metal exposed.. def would rust)









short video on how it came out, in my humble opinion its ok


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## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

Back from the Level 2 Fueltech course advance tune ups, log analysis and team management. Got some more work done, engine bay is finaly painted.


























Suspension an axles are out









The turbo went down to the official garret service for a full reconditioning. Probably ready the next Friday

Still waiting on the acrylic I bought a couple of weeks ago to build the electrical panels for the ECU and extras


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## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

Back with some updates, did alot of work in the past week (holiday's for easter took the whole week off), first off finished the interior isolation and soundproof material

















passanger side done

















All isolation done

Sound proof material to reduce the noise inside the car, not that I want it to be super quiet but quieter than stock
























always do 2 layers, one to "level" the floor and the second one to completly cover it for better results

the rug is on









My frankestein is back from balacing, I'm always happy with Turbopower (garret holset and borgwarner official representatives in Uruguay) they sand blasted every part without even asking, also got a full service on it too, oil seal is new, new bearings. Awesome job from them! Looking like new! Even came in a box just like it was brand new haha









Finaly the engine came back from the last machine shop I send it (third machine shop I had to go to, first one did the job wrong TWICE, second one never even finished in time and got sick so he closed the workshop until who knows, stil hopes he gets better) the third place is a racing team so they knew their sh¡t and did and awesome job.









Fuse block, relay blocks and electricity distribuition is ready










Back to the interior, panel is on









Stock wiring back on, and some extras back inside the hood

















Back to the interior, radio is on, fuseblock is connected to do some tests









Buttons on for testing before assembly









Done with the testing, panel assemble and working, even the radio is working










Now time to fit the gearbox back in, superior torsion bar on

















Grabox on with the craddle and inferior torsion bar

















Suspension on with the control arms and torsion bars on

















Brake disks on, I should give them a clean up in the future kinda rusty









Conection from gear box to gear leaver, switched the original one that was composed by 9 parts for this 1 piece


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## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

Now with the engine, like said before forjed crankshaft from a vw golf mk3, iasa forjed piston pistons 82.5mm and scat rods 144mm forjed too, follow the pics

Crankshaft on









about to put the rings on









time to get those pistons in

















moving forward with the bottom end


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## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

Time to get the engine into the car

















Almost there









YES! looking beautiful!









getting the thothed wheel in, and the auxiliary cam holder









bye bye distribuitor









oil filter support with the turbo oil feed









water pump with metal rotor









Head is on, also the new starter









New starter wiring, the heat protection can go up to 1000ºC peaks but holds up to 660ºC aprox, hope this will avoid any cables getting burn so close to the exhaust manifold and exhaust for the wastegate and turbo itself









front view, new spark plugs grade 7, big filter for extra 0.5L oil capacity

























Side view with timing belt on









Alternator, radiator, oil vapor retriver and valve cover on!









wrapping the exhaust manifold, and adding some forjed studs to fit the turbo









turbo is on! YEEEEES! love it









intake manifold, exhaust manifold in!









got the intake and turbo conected without the intercooler to crank the engine to check sensors and oil pressure, see if the old fuel pump is working, if it is I will empty the fueltank and then switch to the new pump with the new support for the pump and filter









After cranking everything looked good, 110psi oil pressure on the head, the original oil pressure light comes off after cranking for a few secs, the fuel pump works, now I'm waiting on a new ECU its the same as the old, but just new and will get this baby running in the next 10-15 days, all I need is the new ECU


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## Jettaboy1884 (Jan 20, 2004)

Do you have pictures posted? I cannot see any pictures, but am really interested in seeing this setup!


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## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

Pics are back up, postimage.org changed domain to .cc everything is back up working! Now some more pics

Did some work on the throttle body

























Also painted the intake manifold

















Wastegate exhaust wrapped









Both manifold and wastegate exhaust back on









When I was going to aling and balance the car I found this bushing wrecked









So I took out the whole front and changed all 4 of them, also took care of a little oil leak on the oil pan

























The car seemed to have a fail somewhere, and after some investigation I found out 2 broken spark plugs









Will have some more pics and videos of the car running, already did 700kms and almost hitting 9km/liter city use, I hope after doing some more tunning it will go up to maybe 10km/liter urban and about 13km/liter in the highway


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## Jettaboy1884 (Jan 20, 2004)

The pictures are working for me now. :thumbup:

Yes, that's a really nice looking build! Any idea on what the power output is, and how is the powerband to drive like?

In the US we only really have the Fox as a similar (lightweight and simple) VW with the longitudinal engine. The Fox has some enthusiasts, but most are gone now because they were really economical cars. And we never got the serious performance following like in South America.

Please keep the pictures coming, the build looks great. :thumbup: :thumbup:


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## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

Jettaboy1884 said:


> The pictures are working for me now. :thumbup:
> 
> Yes, that's a really nice looking build! Any idea on what the power output is, and how is the powerband to drive like?
> 
> ...


Thanks for the kind words, I try my best doing this car as most of the work done was new to me. 

Its a shame that the Fox lost fans, but any ea827 engine can be pushed to the limit like we do in South America, in Brazil people have gols with over 1500whp.. insane.

The car now works really nice, the powerband is dificutl to explain as if you are cruising say 2200rpm and you step in the gas, you get your ass stuck in the seat and it pulls like hell. I'm barely doing 0.6Bar atm, planning on 1.7bar with booster after doing 1500km on the new engine so the metals can settle. 

Before this project the car used to have 167whp with 0.6bar and something like 250nm, can't find the video of the pull at the dyno. That was with smaller pistons, lower RC, different injectores, without intercooler and on 93pump gas.

I belive the car now is stronger than before, I did some partial throttle pulls yesterday and the car really pulls. I missed that insane acceleration turbo cars provide hehe

Will be back with more pics and with some luck videos of driving around and maybe some pulls if everything works out fine. I have to send the turbo to the service again, its leaking oil, and they must solve it for me for free as its been 30 days since I got it back, and I barely did 500kms when it started leaking, I went with the car so they could check the instalation and other stuff live proper oil vapor vents, etc. They said its ok but its leaking so bad I can't stand it for long, probably Wednesday at the end of the day the turbo will come out. 

As an excuse I will also get the new downpipe in, new lambda sensor, and maybe new exhaust too.


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## Swaizer (Oct 14, 2015)

Boas...

Congratulations on you project!!!

I believe you know how we call this version in Brazil: chineizinho.

I have a friend who install disc brakes and independent suspension on the 4 wheels. It was the same year of your and ran with 1.5bar. ‘A Besta’ it was its name.

Good job!!!

Abraços 

Fui...


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## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

Swaizer said:


> Boas...
> 
> Congratulations on you project!!!
> 
> ...


Thanks for all the kind words! Yes o chines pelos olhos alongados diferentes dos gols anteriores. I really like the 93/94 model. Its my favorite! Do you have any pictures of the gol with independent suspension on the back wheels? I runned 1.35 bar this last weekend, going to get it up to 1.7bar after installing the new siemens deka short 80lbs injectors. 

I will be soon updating the project, installed the 044 pump, aluminium fuel rail, presure regulator, turbo is back from service and was build brand new. It was not fixed or repaired, they swaped the rotary section completly, only left the compressor housing and the exhaust housing, everything else is brand new. Also got a brand new exhaust in 2.5inc till the back of the car, new set of wheels got some yokohama 185/55/R14


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## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

updating the project, after having some issues with the configuration on the MS I took off the head to check if it wasn't mechanical, and found out a big carbon depoist after 1000kms wich is weird, and that seemed to be the problem. Using semi sequential without a cam sensor made the car very rich, veeeeeeery rich, that in adition to a bad O2 sensor made the car fail. So with the head off, I cleaned everything off, re calculated the RC and checked the TDC with a clock, just to be sure and on the safe side that I was all good like before. 


















Making the best of the time, since everything was out, new fuel rail is in, with new fuel regulator.









Bosch 044 going in, universal 12bar pump on the back









Painted black wrinkly the cold intake









2 new seats from a VW Saveiro G5









Pics of the sparks, this was with 0.9bar, grade 5 G power NGK sparks platinum









New downpipe vs old pipe, wouldn't dare call a downpipe the old one it was a frankestein that gave me lots of headaches









Old exhaust
















check that handy work on the exhaust part that goes under the gearbox.. that was the prime reason it gave me big headaches when pulling boost

New Exhaust









New ruber 185/55/R14 Sdrive









Oil cooler arrived about a week ago, don't know if I should mount it straight or find a thermostat first and build proper lines, what do you guys think about it?









Will post more after placing new injectors on the car and raising the boost


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## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

*update 3 Agosto 2018*

some updates on the car, took the engine apart to increase RC decked the block .5mm also the head 0.2mm, oil cooler instaled, intercooler is back on, new carter, new clutch (already slipping need a new plate)

First, new water seals, aluminium

















Modifying a brand new carter

















































Crank in









Checking ring gaps

__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content










Prep the pistons









Pistons in









Different head studs, SPA turbo left, original middle, Ricoh 600hp right









Block is done, auxiliary cam is in, head is on, valve lid is on, exhaust manifold and turbo









Clutch, plate









Almost ready to go









Let's go

















Almost done!!









Building the supports for the oil cooler








Done









Building the turbo/IC conection, almost finish piece









Pic from below 









ready to go









Clutch is slipping at 5000rpm with 0.5bar, so I need a new clutch plate


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## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

*update*

some news, boost was creeping all the time till hitting the 1.5bar limiter, so I had to do something about it, but before I could, I had another problem with an exhaust gasket that part of it exploded, so took the time to fix both problems.

















I traced the head of the wastegate valve on the manifold surface to find it didn't match up, was off center plus it was clearly too small..so did something about it making the shape into a funel and opening the hole till it was center, didn't go too far to avoid gas leaking

























exhaust cement on both sides of the gasket, just to give it extra support








High nuts









Almost done!









then..









you guys know how it goes


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## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

Installed the boost control valve finally, some brass quick release, 6mm tubing









































Its weird to see 6500 views and very few coments am I doing something so different no one has a single coment about it?


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## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

Spring update! So summer is comming to us in the south, so it was time to do some prevention. New thermostat, 80ºC so the water will circulate throw the radiator well before its over 92ºC, that made the coolant temp much smoother, never goes over 92 now, and never lower than 87ºC. Adding a new water pump also helped, just to be safe.

Had some trouble with the starter, so I took it apart, fixed what we call the "automatic" (what makes it move out before spinning). After fixing it a new problem appeared and was solved with a simple brass ring on the gearbox to center the starter.

































Installing the brass fitting









Changed the boost control airbypass from 100 to 80 maybe it will hold better









Water pump in place, new ground wire straight to the alternators support just to be safe it has a good ground. 









After fixing the started I had battery issues, battery was dead, got a new bosch s5. Works like a charm. Here's a pic from the engine bay with the car running









Soon its going to go to a friends shop to do brakes and change the steering rack that's leaking, as I have no time to do it due to university stuff. Hopefully I will soon be able to go to the dyno after setting up the boost control properly and installing the launch control buttom and wiring


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## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

updating, the car is running good. Going on 21psi atm lowered a bit to get boostcontrol N75 tests, when I finally get the hang of it I would like to go up to 30psi. 

Here's a log of some pulls on the highway, had to let go for the ocasional car in the way, but here's it

















Calc of real speed, as the dash only goes up to 200km/h, so 241km/h new record, I believe the car can go even faster but I still want to be sure everything is safe before taking the gearbox to its max

cheers


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## Jettaboy1884 (Jan 20, 2004)

I love when this thread moves to the top of my "Subscribed list". :thumbup:

It looks like things are coming together nicely! It's always a hassle to chase down all the little things that keep the car from being 100% ready, but it will be worth it when you have everything dialed in.


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## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

Jettaboy1884 said:


> I love when this thread moves to the top of my "Subscribed list". :thumbup:
> 
> It looks like things are coming together nicely! It's always a hassle to chase down all the little things that keep the car from being 100% ready, but it will be worth it when you have everything dialed in.


Thank you, Im glad someone likes this project, has been a long way, car is running very smooth, going at 21psi atm, yesterday I encountered a Mitsubishi Eclipse (the old rounds ones) with a IC hanging off the front of the car, and men it was good to win that pull. Right after we talked a bit throw the window and before we know, there's a civic SI supercharged right behind us and, damn it was fun. There wasnt a clean pull with the civic, but still I could keep up, and when I manage to pass, he couldn't pass me, hanve't had this much fun since my racing course at Interlagos. I hope everyone that reads this gets motivated to build your own stuff, it feels good to know your car runs right and strong and its your hand that made it happen

Still fighting the boost control selenoid, not working properly I lose traction in every gear if I go hard on the throttle


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## bluetoes591 (Apr 3, 2009)

Man you guys have some cool stuff down there. Granted I don't have the funds for an engine build of this calibre, but we also don't have the parts up here to make fast Foxes. I have a mk2 Golf GTI engine in my coupe, but it sure isn't like yours. :laugh:

DSC_0095


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## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

bluetoes591 said:


> Man you guys have some cool stuff down there. Granted I don't have the funds for an engine build of this calibre, but we also don't have the parts up here to make fast Foxes. I have a mk2 Golf GTI engine in my coupe, but it sure isn't like yours. :laugh:
> 
> DSC_0095


Thank you! Very nice car, down here we call them Senda, Voyage, Amazon, your could be considered a Voyage S, because of the 2 door. Did it came originally with a 1781cc engine? That mk2 engine you put in your car could def put up some horsepower!! SPA Turbo actualy has a shop in the US for some time now, and Fueltech too. Very nice ECU for VW, since it was first developed for national use in Brazil, and for many years the vw Gol AP engine ruled, still rules but has way more competition! 

I already bought, if we can say so a 8v cross flow head, 037 103 373 S code WW0 073. I understand its a good head, I can keep all the exhaust parts, no change there. But need a new intake, reposition alternator, new piping. But wth, all in the good will of more power. Can't say when this is going to happen, but it will


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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

This really is an awesome thread. I love seeing Gols and the engines that you guys down in South America build. I've been following this thread since they added the Gol forum and your thread popped up, I just don't comment much. But as I said, this thread is awesome and I'm always waiting for updates. Cheers mate :beer:


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## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

dougkehl said:


> This really is an awesome thread. I love seeing Gols and the engines that you guys down in South America build. I've been following this thread since they added the Gol forum and your thread popped up, I just don't comment much. But as I said, this thread is awesome and I'm always waiting for updates. Cheers mate :beer:


Thank you! :beer:

Have some updates for the last day of the year! Yes! Happy new year guys, this 2018 was great, but 2019 will be greater!! :beer::beer:

Oil and filter change, switched to motul 4100 15w50 (thanks Bernardo on the recomendation), new fuel lines, going from 6 ad 7mm to 8mm both. Kept the 1/2 inch as pickup in the tank to the pump, and after that everything is 8mm now, with I hope a more heat resistant rubber/cloth. Old lines were cracking on the outside. Took the time to check for the valve clearance, took some time as I don't have the special tool to do it, so I took out the cam and measured 4x until I was happy with it. New orings for the inyectors since I was already taking the fuel rail out. New seal for the cam, new gasket for the valve cover. 

New set of spark plugs, I put this frase aside because the plugs I'm using atm are freaking great. BR9ES NGK its for a bike DT200, they just rock. You can pull, and keep pulling, until the headers are glowing and they will hold their sh*t!! Awesome plugs, great recomendation from my pal Mateus (thank you, vlw). I will def recomend this plugs to anyone running a turbo set that doesn't want to spend a tons of money into iridium or gold palladium plugs. Even if you could get a 1-2% better efficiency, in cars with 150-350hp that's about nothing you will ever notice while driving. 



























































After all of that I went to the dyno to check where the car was atm, after 90 minutes tunning, first time ever tunning in a dyno!! Its fun, but damn its hard to keep adding timing until you find what the car really likes, last 20 minutes I had to ask the local tuner for help, I know him from a chip tunning course he set up once, he gave me a hand, I couldn't get the car over 236cv tops, 1.3bar, but he managed to go to 250cv 34kgm with 1.3bar, then I started turning the wastegate screw for more boost, but nothing happend. Couldn't raise it over 1.3bar full spring load and 100% boostcontrol. Now I'm looking for a stronger spring maybe titanium or something that will take the heat without softening. This spring use to boostcreep to 2bar before I did the work on the headers for better flow. 













cheers


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## NancyS. (Feb 3, 2019)

Wow...amazing work, on the VW and keeping your documentation on this build.


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## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

NancyS. said:


> Wow...amazing work, on the VW and keeping your documentation on this build.



Thanks for commenting. I have some updates, added a new spring to the wastegate, a second smaller one inside the one I already have, and used a smaller .3mm valve on the wastegate outside wall. Somehow I manage to go up to 1.67 bar, that's almost 25psi. I strongly belive the problem is the intercooler, the inside design is conterflow, air has to go to the end and then come back on top, so the actual IC flow is half the IC. Half to go and half to come back, I belive that's the issues with the pressure. The fabricator of the IC claims its flow tested but wont deliver on the actual test data.


























As soon as I get some cash I will dyno the car again, to see where its at. Then maybe this year I can start the crossflow project, crossflow head, new intake (I would like to build it), new IC, new pipping, more power.


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## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

*Update "No replacement for displacement" and Sequential Injection and more*

Hey guys, I'm back. After a hard semester at college and working hard on the car I now have some time to post. University is hard on people over 30 like me, specially if you aren't used to study all that much outside what you like.

So I took apart the engine, had a weird noise and found the tip of a ring broken, maybe a .2mm piece of ring at most, managed to scrap my cylinder. So bigger pistons was the way to go.

Engine's out!









Perfect condition crank, this one is going out because its already at .5mm 









Some bearing pics









New pistons at 83mm, going almost at 1.9L about 1871cc more or less right now, factory says this ones could hold up to 3000hp, lucky me I will barely see any kind of power like that, these are full skirt all around so they are a lil heavier than my previous pistons of the same brand, but I like the extra structure. 

















Since I obtained 2 Fueltech certification courses, I decided to switch from my MS2 to a FT450









New relays, wateproof, and new IAT









Finally the crossflow head, german made got here. Work on the guides, and valve seats, racing valve seats multiangle job. valve seats are also new. Work was done in Argentina by FTDesarrollos, props to Fabricio for his work. Still I will work the conducts and the chamber, to improve the size, texture, and the shape.









To go with it, a 027.7 VW original pointer gti cam. Its like the top STOCK golf gti cam this side of the world if you have hydraulic lifters. There's no need for a stronger cam than this one since the power comes from the boost. This is quiet for the streets, you can actually idle like a stock car with 450hp with no problems.









Since there are no intake manifold that would fit my car with this head, for real. Golf mk3/mk4 jettas etc won't fit on my car because it would hit the hood. Some people change the engine position and lower everything about 5cm to get it to work, I'm not going to do that. So the idea is to build a custom manifold in aluminium, I have already started it using the shop at the university to provide me with a lathe, and other stuff I need. Still they don't have either a Mig or TIG!! Insane...


While I build the intake, the best option is to put the engine together with the old head and have it running so I can actually use it. 
















Scat Rods 144mm, SPA pins for 1000hp, pretty much standar stuff for this project.

checking ring gaps









putting the bottom end together









original toothed wheel used in audi's 1.6 and 2.0, same in new vw gol gen 5 and 6









Taking some measurements

















Closing the deck

















Polyurethane instead of teflon, car was way to stiff for bad roads.









This one is kindy blurry but some turbo size bragging, specially after comparing several stock turbos. I have a friend working in a turbo shop, so now I can actually take them out of the box and check every single one, the ones on 1.8T audi, the ones on S3 cars, the ones they upgrade to. Everything is availably, and let me say with no offense, that the stock turbo on a S3 is damn small.


















backview










Building the relay and fuse panel.









Already done!









Now to the wiring, went with a CPC AMP 37 pin and a CPC AMP 9 pins on the firewall. Wideband throw CAN Bus, installed a oil presure sensor a ps10b from fueltech, front wheel speed sensor, and back wheel speed sensor (yet to install I might have time these days) for active traction control :what: yes TRACTION CONTROL on a FWD 1993 car. If you go WOT at first second and third you will spin the wheels, same happens when you are in third, half pedal, and you sundenly step on it, you hit 4th gear and when it gears it spins, this will take some more boostcontrol tuning from my part and getting that traction control working. I hope I can get a deadhook right off the light when every I want to.









Changed the CAN bus connector so it won't vibrate and affect the reading.









CPC AMP 37









Wiring done, this are the ones on the hood side, one for the fuel rail so I can use a double rail on the intake I'm buildi









in the car









Almost ready to roll









Car runned for about 2800km, changed oil and filters after the first 1000km, mostly done on the open roads not in the city transit, I like to settle bearing and rings like that better. I had some issues with the coil driver and send the ECU to Brasil to get checked out at the factory, I willl be back soon. I'm running 8.7:1CR now, going on 1.2bar and 7000rpm. Runs good, its just a matter of time to get the other head in.

I'll be back with some pics of the flange I started yesterday for the intake, there are no cnc at price around here, so it will be machined by hand by me :banghead:

cheers


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## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

Back with some news, a new FT450 arrived, car is running just fine now. Re did the whole wiring, here's some pics and a couple of videos of my wiring work and the car moving


























Waiting on a torsen differential with 80% lock and springs. Also a new clutch kit since the plate isn't holding the clutch and it slips


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## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

back with some more updates. installed the wheel speed sensor on the front wheel, I'm still missing the back wheel, will make a support for the sensor soon. Also added the boostcontroller sensor to the head of the wastegate using a PS10B sensor (up to 10bar). Using a front brake line from a vw beetle (old model) soince it fits the sensor and its cheap, should hold pressure with no leaks, and have no issues with heat


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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

Great to see more progress on this! I've been considering going with a fueltech unit on my fox wagon and ditching the CIS injection. It looks like they make a really nice product.


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## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

dougkehl said:


> Great to see more progress on this! I've been considering going with a fueltech unit on my fox wagon and ditching the CIS injection. It looks like they make a really nice product.


Thank for enjoying the build. If you are only looking to switch injections, I believe the FT250 can handle distributor without problems and its the cheapest. If you want the best for you buck, go for a FT300 that allows you in a future to go to EDIS with wasted spark. 

The powerFT models are for really expensive builds, I would throw a 2500$ bucks ECU on a stock car unless you are looking to modify it on the future. Besides there's ton of parts for your car in the US

Some updates. upp with the boost from 0.7bar to 0.9bar just to keep rolling until the details are done, then I can seek the dyno. I recently installed a new starter from the 1.6 gol diesel, and had to switch to the engine mount of the german turbo diesel in aluminium due to the difference in size. Also found a used old gol diesel radiator, its not aluminiun is actually copper. Can be fixed, cools faster due to the big difference in size.










































I spect soon to have enough money to buy a tig ac/dc welder so I can start building my new intake. Until then the crossflow is going to seat aside. 

Also doug, if you do buy a Fueltech ECU I can tune it for you remotly with no charge, its not something I usually do but to help another volksjunkie why not


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## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

Before starting with the new part of my project, I want to say, I'm kinda tired of checking the forum from time to time and see tons of golf, and other stuff missplaced in this section. Is it soooooooo freaking hard to just READ UP the name of the section before posting?? Geez, wish I was the moderator of this section to erase all the misplaced posts

So took the engine apart to check all the internals before swaping for a new head. And decided to do a couple of additional things, like orings, new exhaust manifold, new pie cuts DP, same with the cold side, modified my IC, and made all new intercooler piping. All done at home with a lincoln electric 201AC/DC tig



















Always do the math, even if you don't like it, you can't just close an engine without knowing the RC. 









Old clutch new pads, always plain the flywheel for a new clutch









Since the crossflow head wasn't desing for my car, I had to fabricate some new parts, like water manifolds, I did some from scratch and others just modified the original, it was most important to keep the heater core working OEM since in winter on the road you can freezy
























Almost look good, added to the end the original part









OEM modified









Before putting the engine back into the car, I decided to change the direction bar on the passenger side, since my car was desing only to align on one side, it always ended up with 1-2° off, not anymore. Screw you tech guy from the place I align, I did fix it









Going in!









Once in the car, it was time to build an intake manifold, since I'm not going to throw away 950 bucks on a new one that requieres me to change the alternator to the other side of the engine, AND change the radiator for one half as tall. Stupidest thing ever to cut your cooling in half, just to get a nice manifold in. Solution? Purchase the lower part of the OEM intake, cut it, and use it as base for a new unique intake.

















































Getting the cardboard to aluminium, I made myself a plying tool with some angle iron I purchase as scrap, works pretty good.

































Yes I build myself the smallest welding table every going on 80x60cms
















Welded inside and outside just in case.
















not too bad, thanks to thatoldtony, weldingtipsandtricks, weld.com, weldtube, 6061.com, and so many others that make tig welding videos, I learned alot watching them, and after getting the hand of it, I got certified as a sanitary stainless tig welder for the industry, just for fun.

Let's get into the piecuts

























New exhaust manifold, longer runners and its pulsative, meaning 1-4 and 2-3 are connected, unlike the previous one that was monoflow as we call it here in the deep south









Now to the downpipe, more pie cuts
























Some nice colors, remember I'm not a pro, I only weld when I need to









Now the wastegate

























Time to modify the IC, pipping and more

































































Time to connect the intake to the IC
























Checking the blowoff position

















Sent the rear drums to be modified to look like a toothed wheel, added a hall sensor for rear wheel speed. Now that I have both traction wheel and rear wheel speed, I can start tunning the active traction control to avoid slipping on WOT acceleration.

















Tooths were so fragile because of the wrong way they were machined, that when I took the wheel off, I touched them and basically took 1 off, and almost broke off another 3, so epoxy glued





















Short video, taking the car into the garage on its own power, testing all is good, no leaks, nothing wierd.

Will be back after university courses are over about december with more, maybe even I'm lucky enought to get around to the dyno


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## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

bump


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## Jettaboy1884 (Jan 20, 2004)

Woah, that toothed rear drum is an awesome idea, very cool!

Your welds look great as well. Very nice progress. :thumbup:


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## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

Jettaboy1884 said:


> Woah, that toothed rear drum is an awesome idea, very cool!
> 
> Your welds look great as well. Very nice progr[SUB][/SUB]ess. :thumbup:


Jettaboy thanks for stopping by, its working great too so far, I will post more videos soon, I'm having issues with the turbo so I'm already searching for a new one. Welds are ok, I hope with time I keep getting better at it. If I have to switch turbos then I will have to remake part of the downpipe and the conection to the IC.


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## imb1990 (Oct 14, 2020)

Wow... awesome build. Nice seeing some Gol love and great builds on international forums. :heart:


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## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

imb1990 said:


> Wow... awesome build. Nice seeing some Gol love and great builds on international forums. :heart:


Thanks for stopping by, indeed I do love this old gen1 gol hehe

Some more updates, the copper radiator was giving me issues leaking, so I bought a new aluminium, wich didn't fit the bolts like its supposed to, after checking with the shop 3 diferente radiators I picked the one that fitted the bolts in place but was too high to create any vacuum, so I had to cut and re weld the supports. Some pics

























After that, I checked everything after a letting the car warm up, and figured that the valves were leaking oil into the intake. Change the seals on the valves with the head still on the block

























The turbo is back from the service, already back in the car, went out yesterday to enjoy a joy ride, barely did a pull just to check boost is on its minimun, with 0.45bar at the moment, once I get to the dyno I will go back to 1.7bar or whatever is needed for the horsepower I'm looking for









Everything in place


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## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

*to the dyno back n forth*

some updates, went to the dyno, did some pulls with 1bar, boostcontroller wasn't giving the extra boost needed so I settleled for 1bar on friday, on pump gas 93 RON I manage to squizee 253,5whp and 36kgm torque.









First and last pull on friday








Do you see the step in the graph? Tunning in the street you would never fix that, you must use a dyno to polish the tune to get that 1% that's missing.
















Went back on saturday to see if the boostcontrol was going to work and nothing same results, here's a log of the pull

Switched the spring load on the wastegate and went back on tuesday for more, with 1,4bar the return power was 286,6whp and 42kgm, then when I tried to put some more psi, power dropped 4whp with and additional 6psi, so I went back and took the 6psi back, turbo reached its limit at 286,6whp and 42kgm, here's some pics of the pull with 1.6bar and the lost hp

















Now its time to start saving some money up to get a new turbo :screwy: cheers


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## Meison (Jan 22, 2017)

with about 19,5k views the feedback is almost null, tbh I have seen tons of people running 1.8-2.0 ea827 engines, most with OEM or basic prep, this is basicaly a guide for all of you out there with these engines to get in that nice horse power. Aren't you all tired of seeing people swaping old ea827 engines with ea888 engines? Are there any proud owners of mk1-mk2-mk3 8v engines here?

Besides that, we did some calculations and arrived to the result that the whp to bhp convertion number of the dyno is way too low. The dyno gave back a 6.6% loss of power between the engine and the wheel, meaning a 6,6% efficiency loss in transmition, this is way off. After some calculations the right loss for these transmitions are between 13-18% loss from crank to wheel. Taking this into account, the whp converted to bhp using a 15% loss is about 325bhp wich is pretty much what I was looking for at 350bhp, I still want to make some more power, but its good enough for now for a daily driver.

cheers to all the ghosts that lurk around but don't post


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## Jettaboy1884 (Jan 20, 2004)

I've been quietly watching and admiring your progress!

I'm a long-time VW 8v guy and have done a few very mild NA builds over the years. Earlier this year I was itching to make a change and get into a B5 Audi. I dislike the 1.8t 20v and had a pretty serious plan to put a 2.0L 8v turbo on Megasquirt into a B5, but I ended up going with the old SOHC V6 engine instead. I think I spotted a C4 Audi in the background, so you may know that the Audi 12v is practically a V6 version of the VW ABA which is exciting to dig into. Unfortunately that steered me away from the 2.0L 8v turbo plan I was working on...

Keep the progress coming, it is definitely nice to follow and inspirational.


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