# Project: ResTToration - A Build Thread



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

*Project: ResTToration - A Track Build Thread*

So in 2008, I acquired an 01 225 TTQ in a very, very, very sad state of affair. It's been a few years since I looked at the carfax, so I've forgotten the full history, but I got it from a repo lot, who had been looking for the car for a while. Apparently, someone had bought it for his misses on the side. Her idea of maintenance was putting gas in the car. When I got it, it was lightly wrecked in the front (aren't they all?). The hood was folded up, slightly bent driver's fender, bumper broken in a bunch of pieces, and the icing on the cake, which is why the repo lot finally found her/the car....the timing belt has frayed and bent all 8 exhaust valves and the middle intake valves. This thread will be about catching up the history of the car over the past year and completing the build. Similar to Doug, I have most of the parts from my 500hp GTI and will be putting all of it and then some into this car. My partner in crime bought this car as an abandoned project, we put it back to stock as his weekend toy, and all the race/aftermarket goodies are going to the restoration/track build. I'll continue in another post with pictures and where I am currently with the car.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

At this point, the car was 7 years old, and was RAGGED OUT. I did some work tearing apart what was broken, but the car lived at my family's shop, outdoors and uncovered, while I was finishing my engineering degree 50 miles away. I finished school in 2010, and moved 300 miles away for my first job, so the car hasn't had much love since 2009. I moved back in 2012, and the car sat some more. In July of 2013, I totaled my 01 TT 180Q, and bought it back from insurance. 

This is where I really started working on the car. At this point I removed the interior and swapped in the much cleaner and much less broken interior from the 180Q.

Here is the beginning of the interior removal. 









This is what the hood looked like when I took delivery.









Condition of the interior really tells you a lot about the owner.......puke! 









The water that came out of the carpet when we hosed it off after removal looked like straight coffee. There were some fingernails, some hair extensions, some french fries, and lots of stains, all under the driver's seat. :thumbdown:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Currently the interior is a mis-match of black and gray, which will be ironed out in the next few weeks. I'm undecided at this point if I'm going to restrip the track car to install the entire vehicle harness from my 180Q. If so, the lower driver's dash panel will be swapped to gray to match the glove box, carpet, etc. 

In the middle of interior swapping.









This is what the interior looked like after the 7/8th interior swap (steering wheel, center console, carpet, both rear side panels, rear seat cushion, all the hatch trim, floor, and door sills.

















Much better, but then I realized this was a track build, so about a month ago I swapped in two Status fixed back carbon buckets.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

After sitting for ~6 years, there was some surface rust on the hatch at the base of the glass, so the hatch came off. 










And it was replaced with the mint one from the wrecked 180Q.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

A build thread, it was about time. :thumbup: Subscribed!


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Here's the front subframe powdercoated, new steering rack, spindles coated, new bearings and hubs, Defcon's installed in control arms. 










Front subframe bracing added before coating. 











Rear subframe coated, all new bushings, new axles, trailing arms coated, two pair of adjustable lateral links, and an orange Haldex controller. The Neuspeed swaybar has been sold, [SHAMELESS PLUG] but I have a solid 25mm version if anyone is interested [/SHAMELESS PLUG].


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

So this past weekend was mostly engine work as I've been dying to get the motor together as things will be able to progress more quickly from here on out. 

Here's the FSI crankshaft bolted in place with ARP main studs. 









Rifle drilled IE rods bolted in. 









83mm JE's in place with OEM big bore head gasket and ARP head studs. 









Here's the oil squirter on piston #4. I only use one copper washer here and milled the body of the squirter down to increase clearance on the trigger wheel. The other 3 squirters have two copper washers. It's TIGHT on clearance, but I ran this setup for over 50K miles in my GTI so should be fine. 









AEB head with new valve guides and valve stem seals, +1mm Supertech intake and +1mm stainless exhaust valves. You can't see them, but the Supertech springs and TI retainers are obviously in there too.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

So this is how she sits currently......patina and mismatched. :laugh: 









Right after this picture was the first time I'd ever washed the car. After owning it for 6 years, I had no idea the paint was even metallic! It only looks like this when the paint is wet. Is this Raven Black?










I've replaced both taillights as they were cracked, I have replacement headlights from my 180Q, and the hood is obviously carbon for cost reasons. I'm not really concerned with how this car looks as performance is the focus. That said, it'll get the white doors from the 180Q soon, and some white Plasti-Dip for the roof and pillars, so it's well on it's way to being a Police TT. :laugh:


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

Nice work so far - looking forward to seeing this unfold :thumbup:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

So she's currently in my buddy's basement so we can work on it out of the elements. Taking a ride to her current resting spot....









And inside the basement. Wheels are 18x9.5 Rota Torques, front brakes are 14" Alcon 4 pistons with two piece discs. 









And the engine as I left her yesterday. AGU valve cover isn't bolted down since the cams and cam caps aren't bolted down either, I ran out of time yesterday.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Keep them coming! :thumbup:


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

All these engine stand photos got me excited to get the motor build going :thumbup:


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

What are your thoughts on engine assembly on a stand versus a bench?

I've heard the weight of the block hanging off one side of the stand "distorts" the block a little and so it's better to assemble on a bench...


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

All_Euro said:


> What are your thoughts on engine assembly on a stand versus a bench?
> 
> I've heard the weight of the block hanging off one side of the stand "distorts" the block a little and so it's better to assemble on a bench...


It's never been an issue with any engines I've built personally, and at the factory where I work, Honda V6's hang off the pallets the same way during assembly. It would be more of an issue during machining. The amount of distortion in an iron block at room temperature from it's own weight would be minimal in the grand scheme of things.


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## bwdz (Jan 21, 2015)

Awesome! Just curious about a couple things: how heavy is the front subframe and did you reinforce it because they flex too much? The picture of the oil squirter, why did you have to mod it, is this a common failure item? How much money do you have into that head, what did the oversize valves run you along with the springs etc..?


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Nice thread! Keep the updates coming!


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

bwdz said:


> Awesome! Just curious about a couple things: how heavy is the front subframe and did you reinforce it because they flex too much? The picture of the oil squirter, why did you have to mod it, is this a common failure item? How much money do you have into that head, what did the oversize valves run you along with the springs etc..?


Front subframe....I'm guessing....is maybe 30 lbs? 

Edit: Just found the listed weight of the Mk4 subframe is 24 lbs, so the TT version is probably 27-28 with the position of the exhaust support bracket and the cross bar in front of the subframe. 

It is just stamped steel that is welded together, and is pretty flimsy. Yes, the bracing was added to stiffen it up, helping to maintain optimum geometry under heavy loads. The oil squirter is due to increasing the stroke. The aftermarket pistons are notched for the squirter, but it's based off the OEM design, so all they do to make the stroker piston is to move the wrist pin location up. This accounts for the change in stroke affecting the piston hitting the head/valves, but doesn't account for the change in stroke on the bottom where the piston would contact the squirter. Spacing them with copper washers is what I did on the previous build, so I just installed them the same way this time. Now that I think about it, I didn't even check to see if there was piston to squirter contact without spacing, but I know there isn't this way. It's been a few years since the head was built, but I think it was about $1K in hardware and $500 machining/assembly work, all on top of the cost of the head. It should flow well due to being and AEB and the oversize valves and will rev to 8K rpms realiably.


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## bwdz (Jan 21, 2015)

Wow, that's a pretty pricey head but there is a lot of power in a good cylinder head so it seems like money well spent.
I asked about the crossmember because back when I was playing with fox body mustangs the tubular crossmember was one of the best upgrades you could do. The factory one was pretty darn heavy and flexy, the aftermarket ones also moved the engine back and down a tad which really changed the car.
The weather is getting nicer around here and I can actually use my shop garage now for toy projects so I am getting ready to start upgrading my car. The stock suspension literally blows. As much as I love the looks of the TT and just generally like the car I hate the handling. I have owned 3 Eclipses (2 GSX 1 GST) and they all handled way better than the TT and let's not even mention my 94 Miata and my 89 944S2 or the E36M3and how much better those decade older designs handled than the TT. 
I need to fix it so just lurking around looking for ideas and the bracing you did on the crossmember looks good. Don't want to hijack your thread so I'll start a new one for set up opinions, I'm confused by all these cars that have wider rear tires on a car that has so little front end grip and won't turn in worth a darn.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

bwdz said:


> I'm confused by all these cars that have wider rear tires on a car that has so little front end grip and won't turn in worth a darn.


Because they only care about looks, hence why they usually run a 215 or 225 on a 9.5+ or wider wheel. :laugh: That said, all the cars you're comparing the TT's handling to are RWD except for the DSM's. The TT suspension was killed by lawyers, and can be corrected back to a much more potent package with typical suspension mods and upgraded control arm bushings. Check out Max's thread here.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

bwdz said:


> The stock suspension literally blows. As much as I love the looks of the TT and just generally like the car I hate the handling. I have owned 3 Eclipses (2 GSX 1 GST) and they all handled way better than the TT and let's not even mention my 94 Miata and my 89 944S2 or the E36M3and how much better those decade older designs handled than the TT.
> I need to fix it so just lurking around looking for ideas and the bracing you did on the crossmember looks good. Don't want to hijack your thread so I'll start a new one for set up opinions, I'm confused by all these cars that have wider rear tires on a car that has so little front end grip and won't turn in worth a darn.


I've played with several fisrt gen, second gen DSMs, and evo before the TT, the evo is the only one that can be compared to the TT in terms of pure handling (when all the kwirks are worked out) -- and it could be argued that the evo needs to be a late one with all 3 LSDs, a re-worked rear (TRE, Shep, Cusco etc.), and active center with a remap to really be better. A TT with with good suspension, front and rear LSD, and a performance haldex that stays engaged under braking, can be a scary beast. 

As Adam pointed, most TT are build for looks and whatever Dub trend is around. However, there are a few that build performance, and handling. Go to the thread linked for questions and discussion on the topic.

This is how my car is setup front and rear:


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## bwdz (Jan 21, 2015)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> I've played with several fisrt gen, second gen DSMs, and evo before the TT, the evo is the only one that can be compared to the TT in terms of pure handling (when all the kwirks are worked out) -- and it could be argued that the evo needs to be a late one with all 3 LSDs, a re-worked rear (TRE, Shep, Cusco etc.), and active center with a remap to really be better. A TT with with good suspension, front and rear LSD, and a performance haldex that stays engaged under braking, can be a scary beast.
> 
> As Adam pointed, most TT are build for looks and whatever Dub trend is around. However, there are a few that build performance, and handling. Go to the thread linked for questions and discussion on the topic.
> 
> This is how my car is setup front and rear:


I like it and have read about it in your threads. I'm studying your guy's set ups in order to only do mine once,I like the car but I've no idea how long I'm keeping it for, some time a decade ago I counted how many cars I've owned in my life and at the time the number was close to 60 and I'm sure I've forgot many forgettable ones. I have owned some of the cars I really enjoyed for a while, I always have a few at a time since I was 16 and the only car I ever bought new for myself (plenty for wife and girlfriends but just one new one for me) that was the 97 Eclipse GSX, it was fall of 96 and I was in my 20s with a decent job and had already had a 91GSX when I saw the new Eclipses with the big spoiler and I just had to have it. I kept it for a whole year.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Nice Adam :thumbup:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Finished up more of the engine: oil pump and baffle tray are in and cams are bolted down and timed. Timing belt setup is on but tensioner not released. Gates Kevlar belt and hydraulic setup, I don't do manual tensioners. I forgot the AGN valve cover doesn't have timing marks on it so I'll have to put another cover on before I can finish it up. Timing cog has an ARP bolt and will be pinned to the crank, will do that once the oil pan is on to prevent drilling shavings contamination. Also didn't have an oil pan with the oil level sensor, have one in storage, so had to stop there. Never enough time....


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## bwdz (Jan 21, 2015)

Looks mean, I hope your hood will close with that beastly looking turbo sitting way up like that.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Should all fit under the rain tray. :thumbup:


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## arnoldcp (Jul 5, 2009)

What size turbo is that? My rain tray and 3076R are attempting to share the same space with my top mount set up. I am a noob though so I probably did it wrong.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

3582 (35R)....for now.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Got the engine harnesses pulled from the wrecked 180Q this morning (thanks Doug!), so the project will have VCT and retain the oil level sensor in the pan.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Brought the manifold to work to add thermal expansion slots to the head flange. The flange was previously one solid piece. The car won't be driven much but it'll be abused, so hoping to add any possible longevity before the manifold eventually cracks. :laugh:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

20v master said:


> so hoping to add any possible longevity before the manifold eventually cracks. :laugh:


At least you have realistic expectations, the expansion slots look good.


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## Blk1990g60 (Feb 27, 2013)

Keep it up man, Just got my 01 back on the road after a few month dry spell. Looking forward to seeing what you have in store for this one!


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

I'm on an every other weekend schedule for being able to work on the car, so it's been two weeks but it's time for a progress update. 

I started off yesterday digging into doing the wiring harness. In the middle of the conversion (I hate wiring):









I started by removing the EVAP/Purge pump in the passenger fender since the harness has one plug that runs behind the fuel and evap hardlines on the passenger strut tower. 









Once the bulk of the harness was loose from the main disconnect on the driver's fender and all the grounds there were loose, I was left with this patch of neglect caused by battery acid spills over the years. 









After a little grinding and cleanup:









And a little paint after taping up the grounds:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Removing the virigin 8N0 906 018K ECU from it's 15 year resting place. :laugh: 









Got the correct oil pan installed:









Drilled the crankshaft for the IE timing dowel kit:









Dowel in place, bottomed out, ready for the timing cog:









While I had the drill out, I went ahead and drilled the rear swaybar for some adjustability, ala Max.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

I swapped over to the AWP valve cover for the time being (also notched the AGU cover for the TDC mark) and buttoned up the timing belt after installing the timing covers, the ARP timing cog bolt into the crank, and the OEM damper pulley for now. A Fluidamper will find it's way there before too long. Then I installed the SEM intake manifold and 80mm throttle, fuel rail and inejctors, the coolant flange on the side of the head, and the oil filter housing and a new gasket. 




























I didn't get to the engine off the stand and onto the hoist, so that'll be where I start in two weeks. Then the Clutchmasters twin disc FX725 will go on with ARP hardware, along with the trans, and it'll be ready to drop in the car. All in all, it doesn't look like I got much done, but this took about 5 hours. I vacuumed out the rain tray, and stored away the AMU harnesses in case I need a plug or connector later. Slow and steady progress.......:beer: til next time.


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## arnoldcp (Jul 5, 2009)

Nice work! Some day I will get back to my own TT.
Sent from my HTC One M8.


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## 225TTed (Nov 28, 2014)

I love the progress of this so much...




Hey, do you have a washer fluid tank by chance? Mine was tossed and it drives me insane....


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

What injectors are those you are using Adam? Also, what's the coating on the intake mani, presume same as that waterneck?


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

225TTed said:


> I love the progress of this so much...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


No spare washer fluid reservoir, sorry. 



18T_BT said:


> What injectors are those you are using Adam? Also, what's the coating on the intake mani, presume same as that waterneck?


They're the 1200cc low impedance I ran in my GTI. No coating, I just blasted it after griding off the SEM logo. Waterneck is same blasted finish, but it came from the manufacturer like that. I don't even know who makes it, Chris bought it all way back when. :laugh:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Looking good Adam, seems like you're not far from seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. Nice touch on the bar! :thumbup:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Well, I didn't get much done yesterday.  

To the right of the brake booster on the firewall is this little fitting:









It's hard to see without removing the relay box above it on the firewall and the brake booster pump seen here:









Here's the clip that came off of my 02 TT 180Q, which is the same as on my daily TT 225, and my GTI. 









The clutch slave cylinder line connects here before mating to the bleed block/slave on the transmission. Here's the line connected, but apparently Audi changed the fitting/clip style at some point, so the clips I have don't work in this fitting. I've ordered the clip based on VIN, but it won't be here til Friday. 









So I wasted a lot of time trying to get this clip to work, but at least it gave me a chance to clean up this usually unseen part of the frame rail! :laugh:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

The only other stuff I got done yesterday was getting the engine off the stand via the hoist, and getting the flywheel on the crank. 

ARP bolts with Loctite 242 and ARP lube under the head.









Flywheel mounted:









And I got the rear sway installed:









That'll be it for a couple weeks until I can get back to the car. :thumbdown:


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## velocitychris (Jul 16, 2011)

Fantastic - Please keep the detailed build coming. I am just about to insert the IE stroker rebuild back into the car and... well, I don't have the mechanical engineering degree or, really, any mechanical training, so figuring out as I go along. This aligns with where I am taking the car (well, we, meaning my brother and I) which makes for a great guide. Along with the other builds and deep dives (like Max, PlayedJames, Tempes, etc.) are so helpful. Cheers
Chris


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

I spent a week in Thompson Manitoba at the end of January. Where's the cold emoticon? This guy:, looks like he's freesing a little, no? :laugh: And Targa? Did you cut the roof out?


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## velocitychris (Jul 16, 2011)

20v master said:


> I spent a week in Thompson Manitoba at the end of January. Where's the cold emoticon? This guy:, looks like he's freesing a little, no? :laugh: And Targa? Did you cut the roof out?


It does get pretty freaking cold up here and Thompson would be pretty brutal at end of January!
LOL on the roof cut... the goal of the car is to do the Targa Newfoundland - http://www.targanewfoundland.com/index.php/en/ - basically a week of tarmac rally. I went to marshall a couple of years ago and it is pretty amazing. The car will also do some track time locally, but it's good to have some big goals! It will probably be a couple years before this one gets there, but... it will!


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Finally got the correct clip for the slave cylinder line, so now I can reinstall the brake booster, lay the harnesses into place, and PUT THE MOTOR IN!!!!! But I won't be able to do any of that until.......possibly 4/25, but likely not until 5/9. Uuughhh, dying to work on it, but life/work, Indy Car race on 4/26, wife's b'day on 5/1 get in the way.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

A rainy Saturday and wife's hair appointment early in the day meant I got to spend most of the day working on the car. I installed the Mk4 power steering lines for two reasons: 1 eliminates the up and over the exhaust/driveshaft tunnel, making motor install/removal easier, and 2 shorter and cleaner line paths. I'll install an air cooler layer if needed










I also mounted the steering reservoir the same way I had it mounted in my old GTI, using a short stand off and a nut underneath, mounted lower on the frame rail. This let's the line run under the motor mount instead of above, making the bay less cluttered when the engine is in. 


















And I got the clutch line in with the correct clip, and remounted the ABS pump.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Then I moved on to my transmission gear swap attempt. I want the longer gears from the FWD 02M in the AWD 02M trans case. So I started by laying everything out, FWD on the left, AWD on the right. 









....and here's everything in the middle of teardown.









I'm not sure this gear swap is as straight forward as I had hoped. More on that later....

Since it was apart, that meant that I might as well address the shift forks. The blue car in the background actually has a broken fork, do I'll be doing all of this again soon. :-(

Drilling out the OEM rivets:









Replaced by nut and bolt with permanent loctite, on both forks that have the rivet. I was amazed at how soft the rivet was when I drilled it out. 









Here's the two case halves drying after cleanup:









I test fit all the gears, but didn't seal up the case yet. Going to do some research on the trans internals and post up my findings shortly. I still think the swap will work, but may take a little more effort than I had thought.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Awesome post Adam! I'm looking forward to the gear swap details since I need to do this myself. Hurry up with the guinea piggying already.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Difference between 5 and 6 speed shift rods (the top is where the linkage bolts to on top of the trans, this actuates the forks):









Good thing I noticed, because I almost went with the wrong one for reassembly! :laugh:

And because you have to, I set the turbo on the manifold again, to keep the motor happy while waiting for her transmission.









I also plastidipped my gas flap for the daily, and installed it. Going to try to get the wheels done this week to match.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Plastidipped gas tank ..... I knew there was a ricer inside. Purple dipped wheels next! :laugh:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Plastidipped gas tank ..... I knew there was a ricer inside. Purple dipped wheels next! :laugh:


That's the daily. I have to have something to tinker with during the time away from the project! :screwy: The wheels were dipped gold until last week. :laugh:

I've got lots of tear down pics if you want to see them Max, but I've seen it all posted in diy's on here before. Let me know if you want me to post them though.


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## velocitychris (Jul 16, 2011)

20v master said:


> I test fit all the gears, but didn't seal up the case yet. Going to do some research on the trans internals and post up my findings shortly. I still think the swap will work, but may take a little more effort than I had thought.


Amazing! Please post your findings when you get there as I may need to do some of this myself!
-Chris


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

20v master said:


> That's the daily. I have to have something to tinker with during the time away from the project! :screwy: The wheels were dipped gold until last week. :laugh:
> 
> I've got lots of tear down pics if you want to see them Max, but I've seen it all posted in diy's on here before. Let me know if you want me to post them though.


Yes, please post. It's better to have a trackable thread here with the pics. :thumbup::thumbup:


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Nice info on the transmissions Adam :thumbup:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

DeckManDubs said:


> Nice info on the transmissions Adam :thumbup:


Well I'm not out of the woods yet. There were two different versions of the FWD 02M made with code FML. I'm going to have to count teeth on every gear to verify what I have. That transmission hasn't been in a car since 2010 so I can't remember what the gears go to to try to verify the ratios. Stay tuned......

I'll try to get disassembly pics loaded today in a different thread and link it here. :beer:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

:thumbup:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

So changing anything inside the 02M without changing everything is harder than I thought. :banghead: It looks like the easiest way to do this is going to be drill out the rivets on the FWD differential ring gear, and have it installed on the AWD differential. You have to use the AWD diff as the FWD diff won't accept the transfer case. Since the 02M is two output shafts with both meshing to the differential ring gear, you can't change just one of the gear stacks, aka 1-4 OR 5/6, so like I said, changing it all to another set is the easiest way, but can't be done because of the diff. Everything in the pics above is a 5 speed 180TTQ AWD 02M code FMR and the 6 speed FWD 02M code FML. I also have an ERR 02M from a 337, which has the best gear set out of all of them IMO. With 285/35/18's, and an 8500rpm rev limit, those gears will get me a calculated 50mph in 1st, 80 in 2nd, 114 in 3rd, 146 in 4th, 180 in 5th, and 217 in 6th (with a tail wind, good luck, and a prayer :laugh. The upper gears are pretty comparable to the DBQ that came in the 225's, but the lower gears in the DBQ only give 45mph in 1st, 74 in 2nd, 109 in 3rd, and then the same on out. The differences aren't that great, but the only DBQ I have right now has a messed up 5th gear, not sure if it's the synchro or the gear itself, but I don't want to deal with sourcing parts, having gears and synchro hubs pressed off and on shafts, hoping the shop does it right, etc etc. That's why I think I'm going to swap ring gears to the AWD diff, replace the rivets with ARP bolts, and swap it all into the AWD case. Stay tuned......

Also ordered a new wastegate for the manifold/dump setup, sourced the right rear brake line I've been looking for to replace the damaged one, and got new grade 12.9 bolts for the two VF side mounts today. It's the wife's b'day this Friday, so I might push my luck and try to get some work done on Sunday. :beer:


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Since you are going through all this effort and the trans is already in pieces, do you have any interest in an LSD instead of reusing the OEM open diff? No better time than now...


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## velocitychris (Jul 16, 2011)

Do you have any links, or do you know the torque spec of the bolts that keep the halves of the transfer case together?


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

velocitychris said:


> Do you have any links, or do you know the torque spec of the bolts that keep the halves of the transfer case together?



This is for the 4 bolts that secure the transfer case to the transmission: *45 Nm + - 1/4 turn = 90*


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

l88m22vette said:


> Since you are going through all this effort and the trans is already in pieces, do you have any interest in an LSD instead of reusing the OEM open diff? No better time than now...


Not unless you're giving it away. :laugh:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

I got the wastegate mounted, and the ARPs for the ring gear should be here today. Slow progress.....


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Well I got married last week, so now that that's out of the way, progress can resume.  

I got time and availability on my buddy's lathe to knock out the ring gear swap to be able to use the FWD gear set in the AWD housing with the AWD differential. Here's the AWD diff chucked up in the lathe, ready to get started. 










Original thickness of the rivet heads:









And after a few spins....









Once the heads are gone, you need a good punch and a real hammer, aka 16oz won't get it. It takes a few solid blows but when the last of the head folds over, the rivet will punch out pretty smoothly after that. 









All rivets gone, awaiting pressing off of the ring gear. It should come off pretty easily, I just ran out of time. ARP bolts ready to go in place of the rivets. 









I had to do all of this twice, as I had to remove the ring gear from the FWD gear set, and remove the gear from the AWD differential. The lathe is much easier than using a drill press on each of the 12 rivets though. :thumbup:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Congratulations Adam, you're officially done!


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

20v master said:


> I had to do all of this twice, as I had to remove the ring gear from the FWD gear set, and remove the gear from the AWD differential. The lathe is much easier than using a drill press on each of the 12 rivets though. :thumbup:


I'll say, the drill press exercise is a bit more time consuming! Those rivets are surprisingly soft. Congrats on getting married!


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Last night, I ordered everything to make the oil drain and both coolant lines as hard lines. I'll post up a DIY when I'm actually making the lines. :beer:


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Nice job Adam!


I normally do not suggest interrupted cuts in a 3 jaw chuck do to the increased loading on the tool, it can some times yank the part right out of the chuck. A 7/8" end mill in a bridgeport works the best and safest. Using a air hammer also works/drill.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

DeckManDubs said:


> Nice job Adam!
> 
> 
> I normally do not suggest interrupted cuts in a 3 jaw chuck do to the increased loading on the tool, it can some times yank the part right out of the chuck. A 7/8" end mill in a bridgeport works the best and safest. Using a air hammer also works/drill.


Yeah, I was just barely taking layers off the rivets, so even with the slow feed speed, this was quicker than doing all rivets individually on two diffs. I didn't have the right V blocks or another way to chuck up the diff in the mill that I felt was acceptable and still gave good access to the rivet heads due to the AWD diff height. I kept checking chuck clamp throughout and my buddy stood with his hand on the brake the whole time. :thumbup:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

So it's been a while, 4th of July, birthday, travelling for work....never any time! So I started the day doing a little cleaning and organizing. And it looked like this: just a few stroker 20v's laying around. 










And a few hours later, I had a temp 02M on the engine and it in the car.


















Since a few people asked, plenty of room between the T04S cover and the firewall. 









And a shot from underneath trying to figure out the WG/DP orientation. 









I'll be back at this weekend, so more updates next Monday.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

A few randoms:

Clutchmaster twin disc FX700 installed. 









And a few close ups of the latest cast SS Vband manifold from PagParts with Turbosmart 40mm Compgate. This is going on the "street" project, this thread is the subject of the "track" project.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

I just love the bottom mount PPT cast manifold. One day when I graduate from playing with hybrids....

Good work, get this thing finished already!


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Twin disc 

I could use one of those!


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Good work, get this thing finished already!


I'm signed up for an HPDE on 9/19, so the clock is ticking!


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

20v master said:


> Yeah, I was just barely taking layers off the rivets, so even with the slow feed speed, this was quicker than doing all rivets individually on two diffs. I didn't have the right V blocks or another way to chuck up the diff in the mill that I felt was acceptable and still gave good access to the rivet heads due to the AWD diff height. I kept checking chuck clamp throughout and my buddy stood with his hand on the brake the whole time. :thumbup:


Safety first 




20v master said:


> I'm signed up for an HPDE on 9/19, so the clock is ticking!


Good luck! Mark everything with a paint pen as your re-assembling, it will help make sure that everything gets attention so you have the most amount of time chasing down other things prior to the event, also helps you check between sessions to make sure everything is still where its supposed to be. I was down at Lime Rock two months ago and was walking along the pit road and was finding sub frame bolts here and there


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

I work for an OEM in manufacturing, I'm very familiar with paint pens and marking bolts. :laugh:


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

20v master said:


> I work for an OEM in manufacturing, I'm very familiar with paint pens and marking bolts. :laugh:


:thumbup::thumbup:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Well, slight change in plans. I almost ordered all the fuel lines and fittings last week to get the car running, but then I figured why buy fuel lines and fittings, when I can buy a car that already has them?!?!?!?!?!!











The car is an 01 225 with 105K miles. It has the VW Monte Carlo's on it, but came with a set of Fat 5's, along with a spare block, head, AMU intake manifold, and bunch of other spares. In addition to a BBM fuel rail and braided nylon lines and fittings, it has Pauter rods, 8.5:1 Mahle Motorsports pistons, Spec twin disc clutch, PagParts Vband manifold and 35R kit, SEM intake manifold and 80mm throttle, both VF side engine mounts, 870CC injectors, 044 fuel pump, wideband conversion, huge FMIC, Greddy B2 EBC, and the biggest treasure of them all, a QED PnP AEB head with Supertech valves, Cat springs, retainers, and adjustable cam gear, and Cat 3658 camshafts. It's a little rough inside, but I have a clean interior to install into it (do coupe door cards work in a roadster?). I have a stock 104K miles AMU engine and turbo setup that I'm going to install in it and let my wife drive it until spring, when I'll probably flip it. The glass has separated from the top of course so I'll be looking for a new top in a few weeks if anyone has recommendations. I've usually ignored all mods based on the roadsters, so I have some catching up to do in that department. Most of the mods will be parted out, but fuel lines will be carried over to the track car and the cylinder head will sit on the shelf and later get installed on the ResTToration stroker engine when I can do a before and after dyno session. 

I'm going to try to get knee deep in the motor swap into this roadster on Friday, and then will be working on the track car for the rest of the weekend. DP and WG flange swaps, get coolant and oil drain lines made for turbo, put the front end on, and start fabbing IC piping. Should be a good weekend ahead!


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Nice find, and :thumbup::thumbup: at the cylinder head, when was the last time anyone even heard from Bob? Last post I see is from 2011...


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

So I took off work early on Friday to get the roadster registered, and did a little work on the project car Friday night. I got the elbow that was welded to the compressor outlet flipped 180* and rewelded. It looks like it'll line up nicely with the OEM charge pipe bracket, which will make initial charge piping easy to setup to get the car running. I'll even be able to use the OEM charge pipe bracket after I trim it to allow the compressor outlet to fit, giving me some protection of the coilpack harness from the turbine's radiant heat. This will also make setting up the charge piping very easy to get the car running. Later, a well thought out and more direct piping route will be used, probably with an AWIC on the driver's side. 

Here's the compressor cover in place, just need the correct coupler to join the piping. 









Here you can see the OEM bracket/heat shield in place, and where I marked that it needs trimming to accomodate the GT35R compressor cover. 









I also got the DP and WG dump tube flanges changed to the correct flanges for the Garrett turbo. Unfortunately, this stopped my progress for the weekend as the slave cylinder went out on my wife's 20thAE GTI on the way back from the exhaust shop. The poor car made it 179K miles on the OEM clutch/slave, turbo, axles, wheel bearings, transmission, engine etc, before I ripped into her this weekend. Being the hoarder I am, I had a new slave and a used 225 clutch to put in it, but it took the rest of the weekend to do it. :thumbdown: Hoping to get back to work on it one day this weekend as I'm travelling for 10 days starting Sunday. :beer:


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## nbkkb7x (Jan 12, 2009)

Man, this is a good read. Thanks for the timeline. Any updates?

Sent from my HTC_M9u using Tapatalk


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

nbkkb7x said:


> Man, this is a good read. Thanks for the timeline. Any updates?
> 
> Sent from my HTC_M9u using Tapatalk


Unfortunately no, this car's status is in limbo.  Sadly, it may not make it to completion and may be parted out.


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## nbkkb7x (Jan 12, 2009)

Man that's a shame. If you do part it out, let me know as some of the setups you have would be great for my TTQ 225 Roadster build.

Sent from my HTC_M9u using Tapatalk


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

20v master said:


> Unfortunately no, this car's status is in limbo.  Sadly, it may not make it to completion and may be parted out.


Well, she's back! I have retaken possession of the car, so the build is back on! Some changes in plans, no more tubular manifold, but for the most part, everything is as it was. The built head will be replaced with the QED CNC'ed and built head along with Cat Cams 3653 grinds. I'll update more this weekend, but the fact that I got the car back with minimal losses was a huge step forward. More to come....:beer:


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## nbkkb7x (Jan 12, 2009)

20v master said:


> Well, she's back! I have retaken possession of the car, so the build is back on! Some changes in plans, no more tubular manifold, but for the most part, everything is as it was. The built head will be replaced with the QED CNC'ed and built head along with Cat Cams 3653 grinds. I'll update more this weekend, but the fact that I got the car back with minimal losses was a huge step forward. More to come....:beer:


Good deal! Looking forward to the progress.

Sent from my HTC_M9u using Tapatalk


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

hold on QED like........ "bobqzzi" .......... is he alive still? that guy had some great 20v parts.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

carsluTT said:


> hold on QED like........ "bobqzzi" .......... is he alive still? that guy had some great 20v parts.


Yeah, that's the one. No idea on what happened to Bob.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

So the weather was glorious today, high of 74°C and sunny with low humidity, so I took the day off of work and spent the whole day playing with the cars. 

I started the day with the car full of.....everything. :laugh:









Once that was all out, she didn't look so bad.









So then I started on taking apart the old engine from the convertible I bought about six months ago. 









This is when things got interesting. I started with the clutch, and took the twin disc off to find this.








So maybe that's the "knocking"that I knew about when I bought the car and thought was a spun rod bearing. All the bolts were loose, and two sheared the heads off when I attempted to remove them! That flywheel was one hard shift away from amputating the previous owner. Scary stuff.

Then I took the cnc'd head off. This is the PagParts/PPG Vband manifold that was home to a GT35R.









Well the turbine housing was loose on that turbo, so the exhaust wheel is chewed up. There's almost no play in the bearings though, so the turbo can be fixed with a new exhaust wheel









Here's that bad turbo with the lines on it next to my own previous 35R from my GTI. 









Back to the motor, while taking the timing belt off, I found the roller bolt was lose and bent.









This whole engine setup was barely held together, I don't know how the owner was driving it when it started making noise and he parked it. More tomorrow....


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## bwdz (Jan 21, 2015)

WOW! Talk about some shady assembly skills by previous owner. Thank god he didn't drive it anymore and you have lots of goodies that are still salvageable. You mention a CNCd head, you know I'm shopping for a head in the near future for my stroker short block, any pics of the work and do you know who did the head work?


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Holy crap Adam  talk about some people should not swing a wrench!


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

So I kept digging into the motor. I had to beat the FW off with a hammer, despite the installer using so much grease to aid in assembly. This is the back of the flywheel, with impressions...








And the face of the crank snout (notice the loose oil pan bolt)








I'm not sure what got in between there, but it looks awful. I'll clean up the back of the FW on a lathe, but the crank is likely going in the garbage.

This motor had Mahle motorsport pistons with a low 8.5:1 compression ratio, but still has seen some detonation or FOD/foreign matter digestion or both.

























Sigh. I'm expecting the piston skirts to look beat up as I know this motor has had a rough life. I got the short block on the engine stand, but didn't remove the oil pan yet. One bonus is the engine had Raceware head studs that I didn't know about, so no need to buy those for the project engine. I spent the rest of the day after lunch with my dad putting new rotors on the rest of the convertible and organising the work shop, making room for engine building, stacking tires, etc etc etc. More to come....


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

bwdz said:


> WOW! Talk about some shady assembly skills by previous owner. Thank god he didn't drive it anymore and you have lots of goodies that are still salvageable. You mention a CNCd head, you know I'm shopping for a head in the near future for my stroker short block, any pics of the work and do you know who did the head work?


It's a BobQ/QED Power had, but he went missing a few years ago, so not helpful for you. 



TheDeckMan said:


> Holy crap Adam  talk about some people should not swing a wrench!


Yeah, the previous owner paid someone to put this twin disc clutch in it, and it took the guy a couple weeks to do that. He was obviously in over his head. It started knocking a few weeks later, and he parked it. I assumed rod knock, got it cheap (mainly for the head and turbo kit) but will know more soon. Yes, some people have no business touching cars. Thanks FnF movie series!


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

20v master said:


> Yeah, the previous owner paid someone to put this twin disc clutch in it, and it took the guy a couple weeks to do that. He was obviously in over his head. It started knocking a few weeks later, and he parked it. I assumed rod knock, got it cheap (mainly for the head and turbo kit) but will know more soon. Yes, some people have no business touching cars. Thanks FnF movie series!


SRSLY


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## Ephry73 (Feb 18, 2002)

Love coming back to this post 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

That really sucks about the multiple issues, sorry to see all that garbage work


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

So I think everyone has gotten confused with all my vehicles and engines. All this recent carnage is from the motor that came in the silver convertible that I purchased for the QED CNC cylinder head. The motor had what I thought was a rod knock, but the flywheel may have contributed to that. The original built stroker bottom end is still in the faded project coupe. I'll stop posting pics of the vert going back to stock and focus on the project going forward.


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## tomde (May 12, 2010)

opcorn:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

No real update on this, other than I've been busy trying to button up this convertible so I can get back to the real project at hand. I spent most of Saturday working on it, and I'm just about ready to put wheels on it and put it on the ground. I'll finish hooking up all wiring, charge piping, and fluids in the engine bay, and get it cranked and running, up to temp, verify no leaks, etc before I drop her down on the earth again. 

So what originally started as this when I took ownership....








...was so far from stock, had so much stuff missing (including charge pipe cross brace and upper strut car, is now back to this:

















Originally the car was converted to wideband. Since it's going back to stock, I put two completely stock engine harnesses in it, back to the K04 setup with twin IC's, a stock clutch, new brakes all around, new fluids, filters, and tires. One, maybe two, more days of working on it and I'll be able to drive that one home and put it up for sale. That'll let me get back to working on the real project. :beer:


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Looking good Adam :thumbup:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

So, the convertible has moved on to Blake's driveway, and is giving him trouble that neither of us can figure out. Sorry Blake.  But now I can get back to focusing on this car....

I replaced the springs on RSS coilovers with 1" shorter Swift springs and increased spring rate from 685 lbs/in to 784 lbs/in (14.0 kg/mm). 









This is all based on input from Max. :beer: This will compensate for removing the front swaybar, as well as make more room for the wheels and 275 tires in the front so that they aren't poking out past the fender so much. Both helper springs are compressed to roughly the same "height," you can see the added clearance on the unit on the left with the helper and its perch moved up on the threaded body. 









One set of wheel adapters arrive tomorrow, which will let me determine clearance needed to order the second pair of adapters for the front of the car. So hopefully next weekend I can get the wheel/tire combo mounted, pics to follow.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Nice to see you are making some new progress Adam!


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

TheDeckMan said:


> Nice to see you are making some new progress Adam!


I still owe you a package. Any work on the rear piece?


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

20v master said:


> I still owe you a package. Any work on the rear piece?


Jog my memory again on the rear piece? Cannot remember for the life of me....sucks getting old :laugh:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

TheDeckMan said:


> Jog my memory again on the rear piece? Cannot remember for the life of me....sucks getting old :laugh:


The rear bumper I sold you and the rear diffuser that I assume it is going to be used for. :laugh:


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

20v master said:


> The rear bumper I sold you and the rear diffuser that I assume it is going to be used for. :laugh:


Now I remember, so far no aero work, still waiting on picking up another rear crash bar to modify. However things have been busy with getting a new motor for Played's old TT as the tensioner bolt failed and took out the motor. Most likely that will be it for projects for the next year as Monday I sign the closing papers on the new diggs. At least it will have more garage space


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Well,15 months later....still going. Life's been a whirlwind: changed industries and moved back to Atlanta, and I travel a lot for work now. Also bought an S5 for the wife, and hoping to be in a house with a garage/shop in the next 60 days. 









I've got the car stored somewhere where I can work on it though....










I'm not sure why I'm posting here as this forum is dead, but it's a place for me to keep notes and updates. :beer:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

I gave the CNC'ed head a valve job and new valve stem seals along with decking the surface. 









I started with a fresh AWP block, had it bored, decked, and cleaned....









and painted the assembled stroker block this past weekend. 









I picked up a ClutchMasters twin disc 725 setup, but didn't get the CM slave cylinder/TO bearing with it. Trying to figure out if that's actually necessary as it sounds like a lot of R32 guys run the OEM piece. More to come......


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Nice to see the updates Adam! Congrats on picking up the S5 for the wife! Have some offers in on a couple new houses?


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

TheDeckMan said:


> Nice to see the updates Adam! Congrats on picking up the S5 for the wife! Have some offers in on a couple new houses?


Thanks, Noah. Not yet, but about to put several out and see where we land. Garage space/room to build a shop are a priority.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

20v master said:


> Thanks, Noah. Not yet, but about to put several out and see where we land. Garage space/room to build a shop are a priority.


Nice! Having space for a shop is always a must have for us gear heads. Talk about things being dead in here, just the same couple advertisers bumping their threads every day. Seems like the UK (retarded) group on FB is where any action is these days, at least about the long debates of the proper alignment of the windshield washer cap orientation :screwy:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

TheDeckMan said:


> Nice! Having space for a shop is always a must have for us gear heads. Talk about things being dead in here, just the same couple advertisers bumping their threads every day. Seems like the UK (retarded) group on FB is where any action is these days, at least about the long debates of the proper alignment of the windshield washer cap orientation :screwy:


Don't forget the color matched engine bay fasteners and vac hoses. Oh, and carbon fender spats, whatever those are. :laugh: Yeah, I hate the transition to FB groups as I rarely use FB on an actual computer. You can't find anything, you can't link anything, you can't quote anything, it just sucks.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

20v master said:


> Don't forget the color matched engine bay fasteners and vac hoses. Oh, and carbon fender spats, whatever those are. :laugh: Yeah, I hate the transition to FB groups as I rarely use FB on an actual computer. You can't find anything, you can't link anything, you can't quote anything, it just sucks.


Dude! Total agreement, the groups are terrible with that nonsense! The continual request for step by step directions to even do simple tasks that they do not feel the need to do any searching for information online. The inability to quote and or reply correctly with the new layouts are a major PITA. FB is a bad platform for sharing knowledge as it is like a game chat room of old, just absolute banter all the time.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

TheDeckMan said:


> Dude! Total agreement, the groups are terrible with that nonsense! The continual request for step by step directions to even do simple tasks that they do not feel the need to do any searching for information online. The inability to quote and or reply correctly with the new layouts are a major PITA. FB is a bad platform for sharing knowledge as it is like a game chat room of old, just absolute banter all the time.


Exactly, if I don't catch a post when it has less than 10 comments, I'm not wading through all that BS. The forum was such an integral part of the scene back in the early 2000's, and it's just devolved now. Maybe only the "forward" thinkers were early adopters, but now I can't stand to be on forums either for the most part. The B8/B8.5 forum on Audizine makes me hate everyone. :laugh:


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Ah yes Audizine.....was terrible back when messing around with B5's, could only imagine how it has gone. Seems like lots of us hold outs are moving back to some of the forums but no where near where the old hay days use to be. Rennlist is not bad, lots of good info on there but that also tends to be an older better educated group than the mouth breathers on FB. Vortex has always been home, more or less just hang around TCL with it being the section with the most experienced members and interesting automotive posts. 

Gave up on the 1.8t forum long ago when it turned into the same FB style drivel thought process of "Ask first, search after."


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## ticketed2much (Feb 18, 2012)

Great update:thumbup: I like vortex for keeping track of what I did to car too. Like you say FB is mostly how do I do this, or who has done that lol.


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