# Time to make the move to the dark-side, My VRT build.



## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

For those who know my car, it's mainly function > form, with some styling in the mix
Waterfest 15








_Semi-Custom_ C2 Turbo kit


















still waiting for Turbo/Hardware/Accessories to come in, all in another big brown box.
I'll shoot that all when it gets here as well









_Modified by L.I. Dan at 12:41 AM 11-28-2009_

_Modified by L.I. Dan at 12:41 AM 11-28-2009_


_Modified by Lieutenant Dan at 8:45 PM 2-10-2010_


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## mjille (Dec 3, 2004)

*Re: Time to make the move to the dark-side, My VRT build. (L.I. Dan)*

Welcome to the club!
I just took mine out for a spin for one of the last times before it goes away for the winter.. 
What turbo did you end up going with? Is that a test pipe in the front left with 2 yellow caps on the ends?


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: Time to make the move to the dark-side, My VRT build. (mjille)*

turbo is a precision T61 -0.60 hifi cover, 0.68 T4 hotside, 76 trim turbine wheel (not actual photo)








and that pipe is actually not a test pipe, but rather it consists of a Vibrant Metal Core 3" in/out catalytic converter.
a few things from Vibrant's site:
"- Metal Monolith is much more resistant to the effects of vibration than traditional ceramic bricks.
- Capable of withstanding higher operating temperatures.
- 300 cell per Sq. Inch catalyst flows at 578 CFM, up to 40% better than a typical ceramic core converter."


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## mjille (Dec 3, 2004)

*Re: Time to make the move to the dark-side, My VRT build. (L.I. Dan)*

Very nice. 
What are you aiming to put down for power? You shouldn't have a problem putting 400+ down with that turbo and a proper tune.


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## One Gray GLI (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: Time to make the move to the dark-side, My VRT build. (mjille)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mjille* »_I just took mine out for a spin for one of the last times before it goes away for the winter.. 


weakkk. mine's getting driven all winter.


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## 24valvedGTI (Jan 27, 2007)

*Re: Time to make the move to the dark-side, My VRT build. (One Gray GLI)*

Judging by the piping you are running a stock intake mani, should see well into the 300's to the ground safely


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## mjille (Dec 3, 2004)

*Re: Time to make the move to the dark-side, My VRT build. (24valvedGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *24valvedGTI* »_Judging by the piping you are running a stock intake mani 

Nice catch


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## fourthchirpin (Nov 19, 2004)

*Re: Time to make the move to the dark-side, My VRT build. (mjille)*

should buy my exhaust manifolds and port them.


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: Time to make the move to the dark-side, My VRT build. (24valvedGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *24valvedGTI* »_Judging by the piping you are running a stock intake mani, should see well into the 300's to the ground safely









that won't be for long...no worries


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: Time to make the move to the dark-side, My VRT build. (L.I. Dan)*

so this is the cat








and i can't believe nobody noticed the difference between my c2 kit and everyone elses!
I have an *open dump*
closed downpipe:








dump pipe:









there will be videos










_Modified by L.I. Dan at 1:07 AM 11-24-2009_


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## One Gray GLI (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: Time to make the move to the dark-side, My VRT build. (L.I. Dan)*

pshh. i already have a video of my open dump.


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## mjille (Dec 3, 2004)

*Re: Time to make the move to the dark-side, My VRT build. (L.I. Dan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *L.I. Dan* »_
and i can't believe nobody noticed the difference between my kit and everyone elses!
I have an *open dump*
there will be videos









I've had an open dump for 5yrs







Sounds awesome by the way


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: Time to make the move to the dark-side, My VRT build. (mjille)*

i'm talking about the c2 kits...they're all recirculated dumps...mine isn't
i'll edit it haha


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *One Gray GLI* »_pshh. i already have a video of my open dump.











_Quote, originally posted by *mjille* »_
I've had an open dump for 5yrs







Sounds awesome by the way


Videos?


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## One Gray GLI (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (GTIVRon)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GTIVRon* »_
Videos?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1PLDlufi1o
you can hear, just can't see. sorryyy.


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Can anyone spot me 6-7k? lol


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## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

*Re: Time to make the move to the dark-side, My VRT build. (L.I. Dan)*


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## mjille (Dec 3, 2004)

*Re: Time to make the move to the dark-side, My VRT build. (RipCity Euros)*

Here's one of mine... you can kinda hear it. 
This was on my street tires and now ive just picked up some drag radials http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
http://www.youtube.com/user/vd...MukJ8


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## .SLEEPYDUB. (Jul 28, 2005)

*Re: Time to make the move to the dark-side, My VRT build. (mjille)*

My open wastegate








http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qm3PspgJusM


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## oscar_block (Sep 27, 2006)

*Re: Time to make the move to the dark-side, My VRT build. (L.I. Dan)*

sweet another turbo 24v. Are you planning a limited slip?


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: Time to make the move to the dark-side, My VRT build. (oscar_block)*

yeah, i'm planning on upgrading my drive line setup before upping the boost.
full LSD, clutch/flywheel setup...+ possibly axles before large boost and SRI and engine build. 

i plan on building the real deal here guys, no matter how long it takes me.
i will enjoy the stages of the setup as they come and pass to higher levels...
i'm in no rush








the final level (boss level







) will be swapping it all into a b5 s4, and then turning this shell into a drag car at a much later date in my life


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## 24ValveGLI (Mar 20, 2005)

I noticed the open dump!







Can you get more pictures of the Exhaust mani? Looks much different than mine http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: (24ValveGLI)*

from what angle? right now i have this one because i was being a dick and saw the face















i'll take another though


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## 24valvedGTI (Jan 27, 2007)

*Re: (L.I. Dan)*

Weld a bung onto that downpipe for a wideband while you have it off the car http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## MeiK (Mar 18, 2005)

*Re: (24valvedGTI)*

After all that N/A talk in the other thread you were going turbo anyways?
I'll send you the bill for my blood pressure medication.








24ValveGLI is running a C2 kit with an open dump and a T61 - Car sounds great (especially in the rain, Mike







) and it MOVES. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif You'll love it.


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## fourthchirpin (Nov 19, 2004)

*Re: (MeiK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MeiK* »_After all that N/A talk in the other thread you were going turbo anyways?
I'll send you the bill for my blood pressure medication.








24ValveGLI is running a C2 kit with an open dump and a T61 - Car sounds great (especially in the rain, Mike







) and it MOVES. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif You'll love it.


I knew somebody was going to notice that.


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: (fourthchirpin)*

what can i say haha i had to play the devil's advocate















but who can deny boost....honestly


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## DUB_MANGv2 (Oct 28, 2008)

yall killing me with these turbos...
i have the same turbo as you sittin in my garage and ive been debating to cancel my whole project...


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: (DUB_MANGv2)*

happy thanksgiving everyone


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## Tom Long (Sep 21, 2007)

*Re: (L.I. Dan)*

Good luck bro - PM if you have any questions on the install...


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: Time to make the move to the dark-side, My VRT build. (L.I. Dan)*

so i'm going to seafoam the car in preperation for this, what vacuum line you guys usually use for this?
i'm going the 1/3 route since the car only has 50k on it
1/3 vacuum
1/3 crankcase
1/3 fuel
i noticed alot of people use the vacuum hose off the top of the T fitting on the FPR...
if no one has any place better to do it then i guess i'll do that.
although i'd have to go to the local pet store and pick up some air pump tubing to use for sucking it up out of a container while i hold some revs


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## silverstoned83 (Feb 16, 2009)

*Re: Time to make the move to the dark-side, My VRT build. (L.I. Dan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *L.I. Dan* »_i noticed alot of people use the vacuum hose off the top of the T fitting on the FPR...
if no one has any place better to do it then i guess i'll do that.
although i'd have to go to the local pet store and pick up some air pump tubing to use for sucking it up out of a container while i hold some revs

That's the vacuum line that I use... It's definitely a lot easier to use than the brake booster line. I just went to Lowe's to grab the 1/4" clear hose that I needed. Also, it doesn't hurt to go as far as using the entire bottle for the intake. I've done it several times and all it seems to do is put out even more smoke.... probably because there's enough carbon build up to need it. 
Here's a quick pic to give you an idea just how bad the carbon build up can get in only 50k miles.. Keep in mind that this is from a 2.0T, but it still proves the point.

















_Modified by silverstoned83 at 8:33 PM 11-27-2009_


_Modified by silverstoned83 at 8:35 PM 11-27-2009_


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: Time to make the move to the dark-side, My VRT build. (silverstoned83)*

holy ****, i may just consider that then...
1 can vacuum
another for crank and fuel
1/2 fuel
1/2 crankcase
maybe this is a better bet?


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## silverstoned83 (Feb 16, 2009)

*Re: Time to make the move to the dark-side, My VRT build. (L.I. Dan)*

That's what I would probably do if you haven't ever done it before. When you run it through the intake, make sure that you only keep the revs up high enough to keep it from stalling... that way the seafoam has some time to eat away at the carbon before it gets sucked into the combustion chamber. Also, make sure that you don't run it in the oil for more than just a few miles...


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## One Gray GLI (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: Time to make the move to the dark-side, My VRT build. (L.I. Dan)*

if it helps, ive never done this.
but I also have had my head off twice.


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: Time to make the move to the dark-side, My VRT build. (silverstoned83)*

yeah i won't be running it in the oil long, i wanted to start the whole process tomorrow, and then just drive like 20-30 miles or so and then do the oil change same day.
yeah i know it might not have anything at all, brian, but i figure it can't hurt. A can is only 7 dollars and i might as well clean everything i can prior to installing the kit in a few weeks.
Piece of mind, you know?


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## silverstoned83 (Feb 16, 2009)

*Re: Time to make the move to the dark-side, My VRT build. (One Gray GLI)*

IMHO, if you don't have a catch can setup.. This is something that must be done every 10k miles to keep your VR at peak performance.


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: Time to make the move to the dark-side, My VRT build. (silverstoned83)*

yeah i don't yet, and probably won't for a little while.
i plan on it though, as soon as i can after the turbo is installed...one of these jammeys:


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## One Gray GLI (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: Time to make the move to the dark-side, My VRT build. (silverstoned83)*

when my head came off at 42k, the pistons were pretty clean, and the head was perfect, no buildup at all..so idk.


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## silverstoned83 (Feb 16, 2009)

*Re: Time to make the move to the dark-side, My VRT build. (One Gray GLI)*

I've never been able to prove that there is carbon build up... but I do know that there is a noticeable difference in the performance after putting seafoam through the intake. Also, I have found oil inside of the manifold due to the PCV valve leaking by. I'm only assuming that the oil eventually turns into carbon by the time it reaches the valves.


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## One Gray GLI (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: Time to make the move to the dark-side, My VRT build. (silverstoned83)*


_Quote, originally posted by *silverstoned83* »_I've never been able to prove that there is carbon build up... but I do know that there is a noticeable difference in the performance after putting seafoam through the intake. Also, I have found oil inside of the manifold due to the PCV valve leaking by. I'm only assuming that the oil eventually turns into carbon by the time it reaches the valves.

i did notice some carbon buildup on my intake manifold when I put the SRI on, ill say that.


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## silverstoned83 (Feb 16, 2009)

*Re: Time to make the move to the dark-side, My VRT build. (One Gray GLI)*

but not on the valves?


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: Time to make the move to the dark-side, My VRT build. (One Gray GLI)*

well there you go, i'm keeping the oe manifold for now, and i don't want any gunk inside of it you know? I'd imagine it could become a bottleneck...which is more reason for it to pop prematurely.


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Geezus christ...
I know what i'm doing tomorrow...


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## .SLEEPYDUB. (Jul 28, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (GTIVRon)*

I did it to mine
Neighbors love it


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (.SLEEPYDUB.)*

the rest of the goods have arrived








Precision 6165










_Modified by L.I. Dan at 11:44 PM 12-4-2009_


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (L.I. Dan)*

just to mention a few parts i will/may be selling soon:
EVOMS Cold Air Intake
2.5" Autotech/Magnaflow UN-Resonated Catback Exhaust (best quality exhaust i've seen for these cars in a while)
more soon...


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## DUB_MANGv2 (Oct 28, 2008)

i seafoam my 24v every other oil change. i use half a can in the vacuum line on the FPR. just keep the revs up high enough to keep from stalling. then let it sit for a few minutes and turn the car on and either rev the **** out of it or go around your block and punch it a few times. neighbors will love you!
heres my jetta..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7n3HAUy3eY


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Mine basically only smoked as I was feeding it in, after that it blew some smoke for 2 or 3 rev ups and it was clean again... Did i do something wrong? car was hard to keep at level rpm, so was like 2.5-5k most of the time while sucking it up.
Do you guys kinda let it vacuum in slowly? or just stick the vacuum line all the way into the cup?


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## One Gray GLI (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (GTIVRon)*

i would never do that, fyi. im not that brave. haha


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## silverstoned83 (Feb 16, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (GTIVRon)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GTIVRon* »_Mine basically only smoked as I was feeding it in, after that it blew some smoke for 2 or 3 rev ups and it was clean again... Did i do something wrong? car was hard to keep at level rpm, so was like 2.5-5k most of the time while sucking it up.
Do you guys kinda let it vacuum in slowly? or just stick the vacuum line all the way into the cup?

You need to let it sit for a few minutes after you feed it in. Where did you feed it in at? You also need to make sure that you do not rev the engine too high because it will burn through the seafoam before it has a chance to do anything. The engine should sound as if it is about to stall as you're feeding it in. Be sure to NOT to use a hose any larger than 1/4" in diameter, otherwise you risk too much being sucked in at once.. which could be very bad.

_Quote, originally posted by *One Gray GLI* »_i would never do that, fyi. im not that brave. haha

I know what can happen when liquids get sucked into the manifold. The only reason why I am confident in doing this is because I know that the 1/4" hose that I use acts as a bottleneck and will prevent anything bad from happening.


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## One Gray GLI (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (silverstoned83)*

I gotcha, I know people have had success with it, I'm just too afraid of something bad happening..haha


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (One Gray GLI)*

yeah if you use the 1/4" hose to do it, and suck from the ground in a coffee can...all you do is hold the revs at like 1200-1500 to keep it from stalling and there will be no issues at all.
no hydrolocking at all or anything of the matter.


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

*FV-QR*

So you stick the end of the hose right into the seafoam?
I was using the break booster hose and slowly letting it suck it up.
Whats a better hose to use? preferable not a one-time-use clipped one..


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (GTIVRon)*

fuel pressure regulator

_Quote, originally posted by *timfanelli01* »_








Here you can see the T-Fitting that connects to the FPR... 








2) Bring your car up to temp
3) Disconnect the vaccuum hose and connect your vinyl tube to it. For the vaccuum hose going to the FPR, I used a 0.17" ID tube and it fit perfectly. I used a 6 foot length so I could sit in the car and press the accelerator as I sucked up the Sea Foam.
Here you can see the vaccuum hose pulled out of the top of the T-Fitting:








And inserted into the 0.17" vinyl tube:











here's a link to an old DIY from this forum: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3831068


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Cool thanks!
But last question...
Did you just dunk the tube into the Seafoam? or did you slowly let it just suck it up?
I mean like do you just submerge the end of the tube into the cup?


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## silverstoned83 (Feb 16, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (GTIVRon)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GTIVRon* »_Did you just dunk the tube into the Seafoam? or did you slowly let it just suck it up?
I mean like do you just submerge the end of the tube into the cup?

Yes, you can completely submerge the tube... If it the RPMs fall close to the point of stalling, then it might be good to give it a short breather. Generally I am able to leave it submerged almost the entire time while giving it a small amount of gas occassionally.


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Thanks. Would doing a whole can benefit or hinder any?


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## silverstoned83 (Feb 16, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (GTIVRon)*

I've put an entire can in plenty of times with no problem... the only thing it does is put out more smoke.


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Going to do half in tank, half in vacuum. Will try get a video up.


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

*FV-QR*

And heres the video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zzk4FrsMRis


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## PhReE (Sep 16, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (silverstoned83)*


_Quote, originally posted by *silverstoned83* »_
Yes, you can completely submerge the tube... If it the RPMs fall close to the point of stalling, then it might be good to give it a short breather. Generally I am able to leave it submerged almost the entire time while giving it a small amount of gas occassionally.

It's actually somewhat beneficial to let it stall (NOT HYDROLOCK!) and allow the stuff to sit in there for a lil bit and 'work'.


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

*FV-QR*

after sucking half the can i let it sit for 10 minutes or so. I didn't get it above 900 rpm even while doing. Then started it up. After that i was revving it for a while still and it kept smoking for a bit.


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## vdubb24v (Dec 21, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (GTIVRon)*

any noticable differences in performance? mpg, feel, smoothness, etc?


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## vwaddicct07 (Jan 21, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (vdubb24v)*

wheres the progress???


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (vwaddicct07)*

i just got home from college for winter break yesterday so it'll start soon...
however...possibly the worst blizzard of the season has just begun...so that may delay things a little








getting the car to my shop would be kind of tough for a few days


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## 24valvedGTI (Jan 27, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (L.I. Dan)*

There is like 1/4 inch of snow on the ground, get that thign to the shop now and pull an all nighter


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (24valvedGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *24valvedGTI* »_There is like 1/4 inch of snow on the ground, get that thign to the shop now and pull an all nighter









well i can't on top of the upcoming snow because i have a solidworks/maya modeling project i have to work on all weekend. Due monday morning


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (L.I. Dan)*

and on top of that, i'm still waiting on some hardware...like for the turbo to manifold, a few silicone connectors, etc.


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (L.I. Dan)*

so i'm not quite sure what to do about this if anyone has an idea.
There was no hardware included to mount the wastegate to the manifold (i have no clue why)
It seems to be what needs to be a nut and bolt combo because there are no threads on either flange
BUT, the diameter of the wastegate mounting holes is different to the diameter of the manifolds holes...wtf 
someone please explain to me what this is all about and what to do.
even the flange on the dumptube has huge holes compared to the wastegate...but this time, the wastegate has threads...and came with the hardware for that side, but the Dumptube is NOT threaded and like i said the hole is much larger...WTF

Here is what i'm talking about...neither of the holes pictured are threaded...and are different diameters.


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## 24valvedGTI (Jan 27, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (L.I. Dan)*

Dan use arp stainless hardware for that. The holes are drilled different sizes to allow for movement, because the manifold and the dump are stainless and the wastegate is steel or cast iron(i forget which). You need to allow for movement in this area so that the 2 metals do not expand at different rates and cause the bolts to shear. The amount of force created by the 2 different metals expanding is very large. If you are missing any silicon couplers or t clamps give chris a call and he will ship them right out to you. I put my car together with no hardware, no vacume lines, and missing silicone in less then 2 days http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif GET TO WORK 
The c2 kits have some very nicely made pieces, but require some fitting and thinking on your own. It's all simple stuff 


_Modified by 24valvedGTI at 5:59 PM 12-19-2009_


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Perhaps he should come practice on my car... I wont even charge him...


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (L.I. Dan)*

i guess that makes sense, mike. i just can't believe it needs _that_ much room for expansion and contraction...but i guess can't argue with the science


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (L.I. Dan)*

from my other thread, hence the non turbo stuff









_Quote, originally posted by *L.I. Dan* »_So today i simultaneously worked on subframe while finally breaking ground on the car








Some photos should put it into perspective
The beginning:









My aooga horn, i fabbed the bracket and also some custom wiring... I had to replace the horn because i already had one, but the motor/mechanism Fubarred and it sounded like a dying duck







; i give you horn #2 (works mint)








And, this is where i left off with the car for today...I was just too busy to get more done. Tomorrow i hope to get injectors in and send ECU out, as well as downpipe and oilpan for welding at the local machine shop. 









And some eye candy...Rendering of Concept V1.0 of my subframe with some red paint







Enjoy! Done in Solidworks, mainly weldments and 3d sketches. It all kind of falls into place geometrically when you finally get all the dimensions (so tedious!) 
As is, in the photo...in Mild Steel, Solidworks says the weight should be around ~14.5lbs! I don't know what the OE subframe weighs just yet, but it feels like ALOT more than that. (Weighing OEM SF tomorrow)
Of course this is just a concept, utilizing the measurements i have gotten to 'visualize' a tubular subframe in the constraints of the old...If i get to fabricating it will probably change a good amount by the time that happens, for various reasons (strength, ease of fabrication, accommodating Steering rack/FSB, etc).


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (L.I. Dan)*

on top of the turbo, i'll be replacing the radiator, because it's had a small leak now pretty much since i got the car with 21k on it....and the high pressure steering line, it's also sprung like a moisture leak (not enough to drip, but enough to soak the line's surround and make it nasty )
hopefully red wrinkle powdercoat on the valve cover and gloss black leftover automotive paint from my mom's GMC Yukon on the intake manifold...This all depends on if i make good time on it before i go back to school.

I'd really hate to take it apart again just for looks later on, but if i can't manage the cosmetics it's going to have to pass for now.


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (L.I. Dan)*

*FS/FT: 2.5" Magnaflow/Autotech Catback Exhaust (NON-Resonated) | Long Island, NY* 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4708059


_Modified by L.I. Dan at 3:25 AM 1-7-2010_


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## CRAIG1MACK (Mar 26, 2000)

*Re: (L.I. Dan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *L.I. Dan* »_from what angle? right now i have this one because i was being a dick and saw the face















i'll take another though

















Is there a benefit to the ram style over a log style?


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## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Make me a subframe








Have you figured out how to account for the dogbone mount?


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## PhReE (Sep 16, 2004)

*Re: (CRAIG1MACK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CRAIG1MACK* »_
Is there a benefit to the ram style over a log style?

Might flow a little better, but they also have the potential to crack as well. I dont really know if I'd say it's worth the risk. (FWIW The one on my car looks just like the one in that pic^^)
EDIT: Holy crap, that tubular subframe is














What is the 'other thread' I want to know more about that thing!


_Modified by PhReE at 9:21 AM 1-7-2010_


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (vrDUCKin)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vrDUCKin* »_Make me a subframe








Have you figured out how to account for the dogbone mount?

yeah i know exactly how it will be, i just haven't gotten a chance to finish modeling it yet.
maybe i'll fiddle with it tonight and post up another rendering.
still at the shop...about to mount the turbo


----------



## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (L.I. Dan)*

Today's Progress








Mind you, i'm doing this in between helping my dad run a business...and everything is getting 272 threadlock and good twice overs before i button it up, so i don't have any BS later on...all 10.9 hardness or higher hardware where possible with lock nuts. Even using 034 locking tab-washers where possible. 
Effing OEM downpipe/cat was obnoxious to take out. Required dropping the subframe a few inches to get out...which means new subframe bolts now







(they're 1 time use stretch bolts) Thank god for the C2 downpipe though, slips in like butter even with manifold and turbo already in place















Automotive Guts








Manifold Mounted








Wastegate/Dump tube to show tabs. (actually got them by accident...ordered 10mm and got 8mm, so using them on the wastegate, as well as the turbo) I'm using wing-less nuts with real assembly though so the tabs have something to lock to.








Ports/Valves (pretty damn clean!! and my driving is erratic...from old lady styles, to driving it like i stole it) ~50k miles
I also noticed that all the shorter ports were dirtier than the long ones...consistently across all 6 cylinders. At least it's not FSI!







by now i'd have 1/2" carbon walls in my ports
















Turbo finally in it's home







still needs clocking for oil feed/return to be vertical, but it's also fit in like it was meant to be there.


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

*FV-QR*

I'm so jealous.


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## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

*FV-QR*

Link for the other thread? That subframe looks great


----------



## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Sucks you had to drop the subframe for the DP. Ask me what happens when you DONT replace those stretch bolts


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (vrDUCKin)*

what happens?
i already got them on order...
lol i argued with my dad about it yesterday, because he was like...."there's no way they're one time use...that'd be retarded"
so i went on all data and looked it all up, and it says it in bold under almost every bolt in the suspension.
He was like, and this is why most mechanics hate VW's

for now i just put the subframe back up with an impact gun for the time being so the car can be rolled in and out of the shop during the time we work on it. New bolts are going in before it's driven though...
Plus now that it's been apart suspension-wise, means i have to re-align it when i'm done. FUN!


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## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

*FV-QR*

I put the old bolts back in, torqued them to spec + a quarter turn (I didnt and still dont have an impact, this was 2 and a half years ago). This was when I first got the 24v. I was driving around and there would be a lot of clunking and movement when shifting, accelerating, and braking. Figured I broke the dogbone or something. A few days later I jacked it up, one of the 4 subframe bolts was gone, and the other three were backed almost halfway out


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (vrDUCKin)*

damn they arent kidding when they say 1 time use


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## 24valvedGTI (Jan 27, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (L.I. Dan)*

Call me lucky but my subframe bolts have been in and out probably 10 times by now, i tighten them by hand with a 1 foot breaker bar and some blue locktite and its all good. I do happen to have new ones now though since i went on a shopping spree for my current rebuild


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## 29er (Feb 25, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Yeah I didnt use loctite, and I torqued them exactly to spec, nothing more.


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## 24valvedGTI (Jan 27, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (vrDUCKin)*

They are torque to yeild bolts, which means they stretch and hold tension on themselves during the first use. Once they stretch they do not function properly again which is why yours came loose. Loctite fixes everything


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (24valvedGTI)*

Turbo kit is for sale
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4725184


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## .SLEEPYDUB. (Jul 28, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (L.I. Dan)*

quitter
jk, good luck with college and what not http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (.SLEEPYDUB.)*

hopefully i'll be able to do something with the car come late summer early fall when i'm all setup after i graduate


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (L.I. Dan)*

ok, so i quit, at quitting...yeah like that makes sense







I'M CONTINUING ON!














I have found the time i need to finish in between school and everything!
some progress...
-My dad with the wizzwheel...i wanted to catch a snapshot of the sparks haha, i'm a child inside, what can i say.
Subframe modification begins, this will be the strongest trimmed rebar EVAR when we're
done.








-Test Fit...








-Cut segment, *notice drilled out spot welds, to separate from back half.
















-Back half of cut segment/inside of rebar...basically the internal structural geometry.








-Rivets? Yes rivets. Used to help mock up and hold pieces to re-weld rebar into new shape.








-Said rivet, holding the cut piece over-lapping the existing rebar, to bring it up higher, but retain structural rigidity. This is only for mock up, it will be welded.








-Here shows the difference necessary to clear the intercooler, note how the cut segment is pushed up further into the rebar. That little gap visible in the center will have have a piece welded in to 'box' the rebar for strength.








-Here is the backside of the rebar, stitch welded for now, to hold...and you can see the metal worked back to re-form the original rounded square cutout.








-Here is what it looks like flipped over, from the front side.








When done, this rebar might be even stronger than it originally was


















_Modified by L.I. Dan at 2:19 AM 1-21-2010_


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (L.I. Dan)*

MORE!
-Here's what the whole setup kind of looks like...this was a mockup so we could see the final turbo position and such, plus just laying everything else out








-Upper half of charge pipe heading to the intake manifold. This has a vacuum nipple as well as a port for a DV. (informational photo for anyone looking into kit)








-Here is the lower section of the charge pipe coming off the compressor. It runs along side of the engine and connects directly to the intercooler at the rebar (informational)








-Here is the same lower section, shot from at the back end, showing where it mounts, and what it looks like. It bends upwards and gets connected to the upper "L" shaped charge pipe that's pictured in the first photo that connects to the compressor. (informational)








-Some maintenance i've taken it upon myself to do while the car is apart. New Radiator (small leak), New High Pressure Steering line (started to sweat), A new belt (Just because it's so accessible) and other bits and pieces needed for the build (intake manifold, and throttle body gaskets) And of course the Coolant and Steering fluid.








-CRUCIAL to any turbo build, especially where high heat is going to be present, with alot of exposed lines/fittings/hoses. Using these to cover EVAP lines near the manifold, Oil Return, and Downpipe of course. Soon i will be getting a turbo blanket as well to keep tempuratures at bay in the bay
















-Quick snapshot of the guts...so squeaky clean at 50k the engine looks brand new. & i just love the way they look underneath, so compact. Oil pan is going out along with the Downpipe to get the -10AN line welded for Oil Return, as well as o2 Bung for Wideband.








-Secondary Air Dump...err i mean Pump. Saying bye to this hunk...deleting having it removed from the ECU...just so it will pass inspection, and not throw codes. Plus, it's ugly.


----------



## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (L.I. Dan)*

-Coolant hard lines that run on the heat shield, special thanks to Mike (24valvedGTI) for helping me out with that, and a few other things i needed counseling on with this setup.








-Assorted piping and wastegate w/ dump anxiously waiting to go in 








- New South performance Dual-Pod w/ 30 psi perfect match gauge, and AEM wideband. The quintessential 2 gauges you should have with any turbo setup IMO, before any others.








-New radiator is in, obviously easy, just wanted to start to eliminate parts that are all over the place.


----------



## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (L.I. Dan)*

-Got the downpipe and pan back from welding...came out pretty nice
























-wrapped downpipe in copper heatwrap...that stuff is itchy, beware, and powder gets
everywhere! (i didn't wet it prior, if you do that, it will probably cut down on powder, and i heard it does a better job in wrapping, because it will shrink when dry) However, this is not going anywhere, it's tight as a mofo








-downpipe is in, fits nicely, right up to catback exhaust...all good here







no snags








-all o2's re-connected, including new AEM wideband monitor 








- we will be drilling a little hole in the subframe, and making a bracket to hold this
plug down so it doesn't flop around while driving. Wideband cable is routed up the bay,
wiretied right along side the other o2 sensors. Even doing that, there's way more than enough
cable to get anywhere in the car we need to go.








-other stuff done that i didn't photograph:
changed power steering hose that was sweating
worked some more on the rebar
in the process of getting some special adhesive shrink tubing tomorrow (so i can do the 
injectors, the stuff oozes glue when shrunk and waterproofs the connection) I'm anal about
quality.
Sorting out all the coolant lines behind the engine began.



_Modified by L.I. Dan at 2:27 AM 1-21-2010_


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (L.I. Dan)*

- here's an issue with the C2 kit, These lines, or at least the left one, off the heater core
interfere with the TIP. Therefore the remedy is pick up the one off the 1.8t. They are
shaped differently and will allow for clearance. I will take photos of the fix later on in the
thread.








- Oil return is in, and so is the wastegate and dump pipe. I will be drilling a hole in the tranny
webbing tomorrow, and making a little loop bracket to hold the return line away from heat. I
held it with my hand illustrating what i will be doing.
















-Here's another thing that was personally modified, because i, and my father, were not happy
leaving it how it came. The flange on the manifold for the wastegate was 10mm, and the 
wastegate was 8mm. I said, **** that, i'm not leaving it. I drilled out the 8mm holes on the
wastegate with a 11/32 bit, and then tapped it to 10mm x 1.25 thread. Then i used these 
exhaust header studs we had laying around which were PERFECT size for it. Now i don't have
to worry about that diameter difference.








- Coolant lines on the passenger side worked without any modification. Nice to know.








- The line for the wastegate is a special line. I recommend anyone who doesn't want to melt
lines to use this stuff. This line is a bulk Ford EGR line. It is meant to obviously deal with
exhaust gases, and will not deteriorate. We had it laying around from an old job, because
you have to buy it in a 4' length, and only about 5" is needed..stupid i know. But it paid for
itself now!








- When i fed it up, it could go either 1 of 2 locations. There is a hole where it seems like a 
mount can go, attached to the block, OR there is a loop where a wire runs through the knock
sensor. It happens to be EXACTLY the diameter of this line. Like it was meant to be there. 
(i know this photo is kind of hard to see it, but at least you can see how snug the loop is around it) 








There's really not much left to do. Button up the driver side of the coolant lines behind the
engine. Then hook up the charge pipes for the last time, start buttoning up the front end, and
then start her up.


----------



## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (L.I. Dan)*

-Here's a thorough explanation of the oil return line, and what i was going to do with it.
First, i bought these at home depot in the electrical department.








- Then, i drilled a little hole in the transmission's webbing with a right angled drill, and used the bracket/loop to hold the oil return in place so i don't ever have to worry about: 1- rubbing the axle 2. hitting/rubbing anything HOT in the engine bay. No kinks, no worrys, and yes it's still going to drain perfectly fine.








- Here you can see all the way up to the turbo, and how it doesn't rub, or touch anything. I even went one step further and put a heat-shielding sleeve over it, but i didn't photograph that.


----------



## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (L.I. Dan)*

After my car is all done, i will be making a C2 Stage 1+ turbo kit informational thread.
I will include all of the little modifications necessary with the kit to get it to work, and steps to do them.
That way nobody will have to guess with alot of things like i did


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## One Gray GLI (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (L.I. Dan)*

gauges look familiar.


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (One Gray GLI)*

yeah, and they're pissing me off lol...
i want to get the wideband gauge to work with the column pod, without any interference


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Glad to see you didn't give up on this project. It will all be worth it the first time you hit boost.
Looks like start-up is in site. Good work and congrats!


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## 24valvedGTI (Jan 27, 2007)

*Re: (Snitches Get Stitches)*

Dan this better be done before my car is back together, once I get my parts from pag, it will be running within the week


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: (24valvedGTI)*

i need to get a silicone reducer now..
the one c2 sent with the kit is too short...
i don't get snags like this at all.
The throttlebody/intercooler pipe, mounts to a stud on the driver side of the car...and when fastened...the silicone provided is not long enough to work.
bull****
i mean i dont know if the pipe was made incorrectly, or if the silicone is wrong...but its so ****ing stupid


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## .SLEEPYDUB. (Jul 28, 2005)

*Re: (L.I. Dan)*

Glad you are sticking with it...unfortunately for me, im out now too








http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4732458


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: (.SLEEPYDUB.)*

So yesterday i got home today from college, and did some work on the car.
-Picked up a spare valve cover for $40 on ebay to powdercoat







, it came a few days ago while i was at school








-testing some things out for fitment








-finished the rebar; it's going out for powdercoating tomorrow
















-here's where it was sectioned...had to cut a piece of flat steel and shape it to the gap, here you can see the detail of the weld and how it looks finished







I'll also repost the original photo of the gap so you can visualize what was done.








-this is the gap/section that was 'boxed' for strength in the above photo.









More tomorrow...hopefully i can get the parts to and back from the coater tomorrow...that'd be nice to get them back in a 1 day turnaround instead of monday...but we'll see


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: (L.I. Dan)*

and today:
-detailing how the TIP/intake pipe mounts, there's actually an unused threaded hole in that brake manifold down there to use for the bracket...i put a stud in the hole, but you can just use a bolt as well.








-testing... 1...2...3







(blue silicone is temporary...going to S-K Speed for a black one)

























Almost there!


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: (.SLEEPYDUB.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *.SLEEPYDUB.* »_Glad you are sticking with it...unfortunately for me, im out now too








http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4732458

dude really? that's so sad to hear...your car was such an inspiration starting YEARS back when i first got my car...i hope it goes to someone who takes care of it!


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## 20vGetta (Oct 8, 2006)

*FV-QR*

Sick dude, keep it up bro, i want to see some vids soon!


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## .SLEEPYDUB. (Jul 28, 2005)

*Re: (L.I. Dan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *L.I. Dan* »_
dude really? that's so sad to hear...your car was such an inspiration starting YEARS back when i first got my car...i hope it goes to someone who takes care of it!

Yea, thanks man, didnt know so many people thought of this car the way they did until now








Moving to the 135i though, that is the new supra, and im going to take ful advantage of the new market and try to make a mark in their world








I may, however, keep the jetta and get the 135 as well...but ill have to see if it will sell for what i want first.
GL with the project, dont give up too easily


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## PhReE (Sep 16, 2004)

*Re: (.SLEEPYDUB.)*

Have they figured out a problem with the high pressure fuel pump failures yet?


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## .SLEEPYDUB. (Jul 28, 2005)

*Re: (PhReE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PhReE* »_Have they figured out a problem with the high pressure fuel pump failures yet?

nope, but i have








So simple, just takes someone to do it first...and thats what im good for right?


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: (.SLEEPYDUB.)*

how cheap can you get those?
I'm interested in those as well...but feel like they're going to hold their price just because of the bmw emblem


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## .SLEEPYDUB. (Jul 28, 2005)

*Re: (L.I. Dan)*

i find them all day for $26,000


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## RipCity Euros (Sep 23, 2007)

*Re: (.SLEEPYDUB.)*

Try Co-Part, you will find that shizz fo cheap.


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: (RipCity Euros)*

heat be gone!


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## vdubb24v (Dec 21, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (L.I. Dan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *L.I. Dan* »_After my car is all done, i will be making a C2 Stage 1+ turbo kit informational thread.
I will include all of the little modifications necessary with the kit to get it to work, and steps to do them.
That way nobody will have to guess with alot of things like i did










I DEFINITELY need this! I have about 8 months to gather everything necessary for the build and would like to have everything in order so the car will have minimal down time. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
im still a little confused on all the hardware, ie bolts and what not.


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (vdubb24v)*

will be doing the thread shortly. Once i have the car completed and have some more free time.
I will also be talking about what else i feel is necessary to buy with the kit...all subject to everyones opinion and decision but i will post what i did.


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (L.I. Dan)*

just picked this rarity up...local guy had it collecting dust! go figure haha


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## vdubb24v (Dec 21, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (L.I. Dan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *L.I. Dan* »_will be doing the thread shortly. Once i have the car completed and have some more free time.
I will also be talking about what else i feel is necessary to buy with the kit...all subject to everyones opinion and decision but i will post what i did.

Sweet. Thanks man!
Did you get my last PM?


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (vdubb24v)*

more stuff!

-PCV Re-routing is complete...no catch can for now (eventually; yes)









-Modified and re-welded coolant hardlines. They now fit under OEM manifold, AND bolts to the original location on the heatshield. (used heavy duty industrial strength pop rivets)








- I one upped all you guys with your SAI deletes







eff block off plates!! (cleaning and semi polishing/brushing tomorrow)








-Valve cover's back from powdercoat! Teasers are good...right?


















Gotta pick up some good high heat resistant coolant/heater hose tomorrow from a local company here, Moreland hose, if they have it.
*PS: If anybody knows of any other places to get good, high quality, heat resistant hose locally without having to order online would really be helping me out * In case Moreland doesn't have what i need.
Other than that....just need to figure out what to do about the brake booster line and then it's downhill to the finish!


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## Lew_Dog (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Lieutenant Dan)*









Props to you for taking your time and figuring out what needs to be added or upgraded instead of just slapping the kit on and hoping it runs right. Good luck with the rest of the build. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Brake Booster will need a check valve. I bought mine off ebay. Does the C2 kit include any other check-valves for their set-up? I found a sweet check-valve that can handle all fluids for my fuel set-up and the brake booster line. I have been trying to see if there are any other check-valves needed in a custom VRT set-up.


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: (Snitches Get Stitches)*

can you post a link? and no c2 didn't include a checkvalve


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## 24valvedGTI (Jan 27, 2007)

*Re: (Lieutenant Dan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Lieutenant Dan* »_can you post a link? and no c2 didn't include a checkvalve

Thats because it is already there from the factory in the hard plastic line from the intake mani to the brake booster


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: (24valvedGTI)*

thats what i thought.. i was like looking at it today thinking to myself that i'm pretty sure that's a check valve in there...
it just makes sense to keep vacuum at the brakes at all times even if theres a problem


----------



## One Gray GLI (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: (Lieutenant Dan)*

yup, there's a check valve on the brake booster already. you just will have to extend the line.


----------



## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: (One Gray GLI)*

She lives! I don't have any completed photos just yet because i had to go back to school for the week, but this weekend you'll get photos and maybe a small vid to preview the fact it lives!
Here are some shots of the cool stuff to hold you over 
































More soon!!


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## PhReE (Sep 16, 2004)

*Re: (Lieutenant Dan)*

Clean, dude! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 20vGetta (Oct 8, 2006)

clean as ****!!!!


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## solowb5 (Jan 16, 2007)

I've never looked at a oem 24v orientation so this why I'm asking this; Why did you leave the nipple on the plate for your 'block off plate' ?


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## One Gray GLI (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: (solowb5)*


_Quote, originally posted by *solowb5* »_I've never looked at a oem 24v orientation so this why I'm asking this; Why did you leave the nipple on the plate for your 'block off plate' ?

coolant port to the heater core.


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## PhReE (Sep 16, 2004)

*Re: (One Gray GLI)*

Integrated Engineering is currently developing a custom solution for blocking off the SAI port and keeping the coolant nipple there http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## hiatussk8rs (Jul 30, 2003)

*Re: (PhReE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PhReE* »_Integrated Engineering is currently developing a custom solution for blocking off the SAI port and keeping the coolant nipple there http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

really do they have any info up ?


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## PhReE (Sep 16, 2004)

*Re: (hiatussk8rs)*

I'm not sure but I was talking to Pete (one of the owners) and he mentioned he has it in the pipeline. I'll ask him about it next time I see/talk to him.


----------



## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*Re: (PhReE)*

Start up








http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKxNNugobuc


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## vdubb24v (Dec 21, 2006)

*Re: (Lieutenant Dan)*

Sounds and looks sweet! Can't wait for the driving/dyno vids! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Charles Devine (Aug 22, 2007)

Bumping this old ass thread because I never saw the final product. I want final product pictures! :beer:

-Charles


----------

