# Melting fuse box stikes again! (the 40K+ club..)



## D-Caf (Mar 22, 2009)

So took the Tig in for it's 40k service today. While they were checking it out they noticed two codes, one was an cooling fan failure, the other a open circuit headlight. Looking into the headlight they wiggled it a little and it started screwing with the rest of the lights. Turns out the fuse box was melting and trying to take the lighting system with it. Additionally the cooling fans had somehow managed to seize up. 

Thankfully it was all covered under the extended warranty I had (Platinum Plus $0 deductible, now paid for itself). New fans, new fuse box. 

Service manager mentioned that he was seeing more of these than he would like, seems to be few but not completely rare. 

So for those approaching the 40-50K mile range, keep and eye out. Strange lighting issues could be a sign of a fuse panel issue. Besides my left front bulb blowing out 2 weeks ago (which I replaced), I hadn't seen any problems.


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## myglimk2 (Oct 15, 2006)

I'm guessing 09 and up? My wifes is an 09 approaching 40k. :screwy:


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## D-Caf (Mar 22, 2009)

Yep, I've seen at least another 2010 model that had the problem post up on the board as well. 

This thread references an '09 and a '11 both having similar problems: 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5927373-Fuse-box-left-low-beam-headlight


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## chrishart1 (Jul 2, 2003)

Crap. My '09 is erroneously and intermittently reporting that lamps are out. I think it's a sign of a problem.... and I'm hoping it's not *this* problem!


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## D-Caf (Mar 22, 2009)

Yeah, I would get that checked out ASAP. Here is another thread with another '09 that had the fuse box failure: 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...use-Causing-random-ext-lights-out-2009-Tiguan 

and their follow up: 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...d-engine-fuse-box-no-esp-or-windshield-wipers 

It's definitely a real issue. Looking at my receipt it would have cost about $300 in parts plus another $100 in labor to replace the box if it wasn't covered by my extended warranty.


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## chrishart1 (Jul 2, 2003)

Thank you for sharing those links. 

I wonder if those chaps had modified any part of the electrical system (aftermarket stereo, gauges, lighting, etc.) 

Because, as far as I'm concerned, an unmodified electrical system in a modern car should never have failures. If it does, it's crappy engineering.


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## marshotel (Mar 15, 2006)

This happened to my wife's 2010 as well. I believe it was under 30,000 miles.


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## SAITCHO (Jun 29, 2009)

Mine melted too. The only part I upgraded are the headlight bulbs.


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## chrishart1 (Jul 2, 2003)

That might be enough to do it. Brighter bulbs usually draw more amperage. But that said, the damn fuse box shouldn't frickin' melt if you still have the stock rating fuses in there. The whole box should be able to take the maximum possible load the OEM fuses are rated for, under any conditions or temperature extremes that the car might encounter. To not have the box be able to take that is a failure in either VW's engineering of the car, or the manufacturing of the box by VW's supplier (if it's not made by VW themselves).


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## sixandeightstringer (Nov 21, 2004)

I had this issue, just spoke with a VOA rep, I was denied any assistance with the fusebox replacement.


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## chrishart1 (Jul 2, 2003)

Did they say they were denying assistance because your car is modified? Or did they not provide an explanation?


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## D-Caf (Mar 22, 2009)

Well, maybe it needs to be filed with the NHTSA so that it becomes an official recall and covered outside warranty. Seems to be pretty obvious that it's a build defect.

https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/index.xhtml

I'll file mine this weekend. Even though it didn't cost many any money, that was only because I paid upfront with an extended warranty.


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## DUBosuarus (Aug 14, 2011)

I just got mine back from the dealership after they repalced my fuse box because it had melted too. My Tig is an 09 with 29k on it....I had to call VWoA to make them warranty it and thankfully they did. Does anyone know if these new fuse boxes are an updated version to prevent this problem from happening again or is it that same exact fuse box that will melt again??


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## B02S4 (Dec 26, 2012)

Is there a known common source of excessive current draw or resistance resulting in excessive heat?


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## manyDUBs (Dec 26, 2002)

*Got a nice stay puff here*

At the dealer getting my fusebox replaced right now. Thank God for warranties!

This is kind of scary. Could you imagine it melting enough to affect a critical safety system...


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## 432828 (Nov 21, 2008)

Certainly not a good sign. Sounds like VW will need to step up and take care of this issue (warranty or not) Could be a good case for Recall.
Traveling at 70mph and have your electrics fry on you is not a good safety feature in my book.

Filing with NHTSA sounds like a good idea


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## raffor (Oct 13, 2009)

Isn't a melting fuse box a fire hazard? I find this extremely disturbing.


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## SAITCHO (Jun 29, 2009)

I lost power steering on the highway that wasnt fun at all.


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## chicoze (Jan 9, 2010)

B02S4 said:


> Is there a known common source of excessive current draw or resistance resulting in excessive heat?


It seems to me this is a case of either a bad design or a production flaw.

Apparently, the fuse could stand the electrical current it is supposed to convey and does not blow, although the heat produced is not supported by the board in which the fuse lays on and, eventually, melts causing the problem.

As the complains, untill now, came from 2009 and 2010 model years, seems that ageing (maybe rusting over an under-dimensioned board) is the main culprit.

Among electrical components that are connected to that fuse, I believe that headlight and foglight are the ones which draw most of the current passing through. 

Assuming that halogen headlights need higher current than HID and that, on both cases, the fuse capacity is the same, I wonder if all of the owners who have already experienced that problem have halogen instead of OEM HID...?


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## sixandeightstringer (Nov 21, 2004)

Sorry I never responded, I haven't been on the board in a month or so. 

I have no headlight mods in my 2009 SE 4-Mo, OEM headlights. I've replaced my fogs with DEPO stock replacements (due to glass breakage in both of the originals) but that's the only replacement made. And the original "melt" happened before those fogs were damaged.

My dealer service rep is good to me, he discounted the service (I was also getting other major services done) but VOA gave me the cold shoulder.


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## chrishart1 (Jul 2, 2003)

Thanks for the followup, Mark. Glad to hear your dealer is good to you. The one I goto for service has been lousy (not where I bought the car -- that dealer is 1.5hours away).

I should also followup and say that my fusebox is thankfully fine. But when I had engine stumbling issues recently, my first thoughts were of the box smoldering under the hood.


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## MLue1 (Apr 27, 2008)

WOW thanks for posting this I wasn't aware of this. Maybe we should start a new thread to track model, milage and weather they have HID or Halogen lights when this failure occurs.


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## dangxiii (Feb 19, 2010)

The melting fuse box isnt something new, it also happened to me in my mk4 Jetta, my AC stopped working, I assumed the worst, did searches on threads started from easy to hard, first thing I did was check my fuse box on top of the battery and voila! The fuse had melted into the box had to pull out with needle nose pliers, the area looked like it started to burn and melt, so I replaced the fuse and eventually replaced the whole thing, AC started working again. So all in all, nothing new


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## tiguanckx (May 15, 2013)

*Melting fuse box $640 - Tiguan 2009 34K miles*

This is unacceptable. Before finding any of this info, I lost my headlights last week.

Took my Tiguan '09 with 31K miles to the dealership for new "bulbs" yesterday.

I picked it up today and paid $640 for replacement of the fuse box which was melting plus de two bulbs that had blown (parts + labor + tax). According to the service guys (which were very professional and helpful) it was a corroded contact on a wire that comes into the fuse box through its underneath and back.

I am VERY disappointed on this German assembled vehicle. Needless to stay this is probably making it my first and last VW. My Tiguan doesn't have anything modified, only original equipment as was bought new in 2009.

I will file a complain and see what can be done to get reimbursement from the manufacturer.


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## DT EXP (Jun 15, 2007)

man, I totally missed this thread.. this is crazy stuff


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## manyDUBs (Dec 26, 2002)

tiguanckx said:


> This is unacceptable. Before finding any of this info, I lost my headlights last week.
> 
> Took my Tiguan '09 with 31K miles to the dealership for new "bulbs" yesterday.
> 
> ...


You should not have paid for that, it is covered under warranty. You were at 31K miles.


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## Reallyslowrio (Oct 1, 2012)

manyDUBs said:


> You should not have paid for that, it is covered under warranty. You were at 31K miles.


His 36 months passed...

It's 3 years/36000 miles; whichever comes first.


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## 432828 (Nov 21, 2008)

Reallyslowrio said:


> His 36 months passed...
> 
> It's 3 years/36000 miles; whichever comes first.


Yeah, that kinda sux. VW should surely pick the tab up on this problem. Keep your receipts for when a recall is issued or someone gets hurt on the road as a result... you will be reimbursed.


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## 4MotionTig (May 13, 2013)

Wow I'm glad that we have 4 years 80 000 km warranty here in Canada... 

Sucks that these electrical issues are not properly taken care of by VWoA.... Any case you've heard of that is related to 12-13 models? Probably not yet... Seem more like a problems related to age rather than milage... corrosion over time???

Hope for the best and expect the worst I guess...


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## Reallyslowrio (Oct 1, 2012)

4MotionTig said:


> Wow I'm glad that we have 4 years 40 000 km warranty here in Canada...


You're glad to only have 25,000 miles of warranty?


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## 4MotionTig (May 13, 2013)

heheheh! woups.. edited.. 80 000 KM.. wow, 25k miles would suck.. its 50k miles...


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## 4MotionTig (May 13, 2013)

From: http://www.vw.ca/en/models/tiguan_2...ne.html#/tab=aaf2a6234fde21306ce5db5d645123bd


Quote:

Limited warranty against corrosion perforation: 12 years/unlimited distance
Powertrain limited warranty: 5 years/100,000 km (whichever occurs first)
New vehicle limited warranty: 4 years/80,000 km (whichever occurs first); Wear and tear items and adjustments excluded after initial 12 months/20,000 km (whichever occurs first)

End of Quote...


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## KVWilliams (Feb 15, 2010)

*godamnit*

Add me to the list.  

- Looking back, my tig had symptoms of this mid-30k miles with just a couple external lights going out at the same time but then came back after the next start up, so I figured it was a fluke (I should have checked this forum). 

- At about 43k, it finally hit me with 13 external lights out upon start up before my morning commute. It persisted even after many restarts and resetting the battery. Researched and found the numerous threads of the same here. doh!  

- After a couple days, right before I was ready to call the VW stealership, my external lights returned on its own. However, the damage to the fusebox was obvious. 

 

I guess that melted fuse still works, kinda... 

 


The damage is done - I figure until an official TSB or recall comes out, I would try and 'make do'. I hit the affected area with CRC QD Electronic Cleaner and replaced the semi-working melted 30amp fuse with a lesser *25amp*. The thought is that perhaps the threshold for popping the fuse should have been lower than 30a installed by the manufacture, which may have prevented this melt down. I'd rather pop fuses more often that have to pay $600plus for an overpriced, poorly made, craptastical fuse box! It has been 3k miles since the new fuse and so far its behaving. :sly: 

The fact that VW isn't standing behind an obvious manufacturing flaw is disheartening, to say the least. I have been warned *many* times over by friends/colleagues before I purchased my car that VWs or rather 'European cars in general' have always been plagued by electronic gremlins and nightmares. Plenty of, I-told-you-so's, going around lately. :facepalm: 

Other things worth noting: 

- I have a class D mono 400watt amplifier powering a subwoofer running directly from my battery, by-passing the entire electronic system. Although I'm sure good ole VWoA will blame the amplifier if I'm forced to deal with damaged fuse box before a TSB or recall is issued (if ever). 

- A while back, my factory battery died a premature death - just baaarely over the short, 24mo warranty. VW Stealership, of coursed, mentioned my amplifier as the reason even though its poor performance was noted long before I installed the small amp. I've been using a Walmart battery replacement since @ 25k miles, which has been stronger than my OEM VW battery even at its best! 

- At around 40k miles, VWoA found a slow leak in my transfer case which resulted in a very costly repair but thankfully was covered under the drivetrain warranty (which also, to my advantage, inadvertently covered my transfer-case/transmission oil change 40k maintenance).


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## 432828 (Nov 21, 2008)

Makes me want to check my fuse box on a daily basis... Sheesh! 

You should file with NHTSA 

https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/


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## KVWilliams (Feb 15, 2010)

^ Thanks for the link. I'll file a complaint.


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## MLue1 (Apr 27, 2008)

KVWilliams said:


> I guess that melted fuse still works, kinda...


The side of the 30 Amp fuse that is burnt was that on the side of the screw in the picture. Could it be that the plastic near the screw is cracking and causing a short from the fuse to the screw?


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## shawng (Jul 28, 2007)

That's a very good question. I wonder too. I just checked and mine is fine, but after looking today, I can see how over tightening of that screw causes the problem. It would explain a lot.


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## MLue1 (Apr 27, 2008)

shawng said:


> That's a very good question. I wonder too. I just checked and mine is fine, but after looking today, I can see how over tightening of that screw causes the problem. It would explain a lot.


Hi Shawn, the heat cycles may compound the problem as well. If this is indeed the case and we don't have the problem yet maybe loosing a turn may do wonders.


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## Keroppi_2.0T (Feb 25, 2006)

I thankfully don't have this issue with my TIG, but this has been an ongoing issue with my GTI also 2009. changed out 2 fuses already both melted same way.......... i was told recently that it was the fusebox...... anyone know if the changed out fuse box will do the same thing? is it the same part #? filing this as well.


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## shawng (Jul 28, 2007)

Not sure about heat cycles. I have had the Tig at -30C to +40C with no issues. I spent a week in +40C weather one summer and with frequent start stops, the engine compartment was too hot to touch and still nothing.


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## MLue1 (Apr 27, 2008)

Today I opened my fuse box to check the screw near the 30 Amp fuse, it was not tight at all. I removed the screw, it looked fine so I removed both the 15 and the 30 amp fuses, they came out fine as you'd expect. The 15 am fuse looked fine but the 30 am fuse showed some brown substance on the contact near the top just below the green plastic casing. I had not noticed this that was beside the screw last month when I checked the fuse and the condition of the fuse box. The brown substance was on the contact closest to the screw, there is definitely something going on under there , good thing I have a spare one coming from the vwpartsstore.


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## SicariusInferi (Jun 3, 2013)

MLue1 said:


> The side of the 30 Amp fuse that is burnt was that on the side of the screw in the picture. Could it be that the plastic near the screw is cracking and causing a short from the fuse to the screw?


 Seeing the pictures now of what everyone was talking about and the proximity I can see the relation and potential for an issue. What systems are those fuses for? 

Which trims has this been more common in? Is there a commonality of HID or Halogen equipped vehicles? I only ask because I haven't had a chance to look at the fuse box and the mention of false bulb outs being a sign and thinking of lighting systems that would have the most consistent higher draws.


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## only1vw (May 30, 2013)

mine has no hid,its a 2010 wolfsburg,40k,and the fuse is the 30amp for lightening i believe


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## Boner Champ (May 9, 2013)

I think it's shorting out to ground....the screw! 

I'll look at mine now. 



If the fuse isn't blowing, its' drawing on the unfused side, thus all the current. 

Out of warranty, I will replace the screw w/a nylon screw.


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## SicariusInferi (Jun 3, 2013)

Boner Champ said:


> I think it's shorting out to ground....the screw!
> 
> I'll look at mine now.
> 
> ...


 Yup that is exactly what I was thinking that it was grounding out to the screw and heating up.


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## Boner Champ (May 9, 2013)

Ok, I pulled the fuse out and the blade was perfect. Took the screw out and replaced it with a nylon screw. I used a screw from Lowes. It was fine threaded, but twisted into the coarse threads on the box. 

I'm very confident the problem lies with the screw being a ground point so close to the hot leg on the box. Something, maybe mfg defect like a crack in the plastic, lets the current flow. It could be some weird environment condition corrodes enough.... 

I would say to just pull the screw out for the time being. The box is held tightly by other screws anyway. Someone needs to test that screw with a meter when installed, to see if it hits ground. 99% sure that's your gremlin. It is a dumb design.


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## Boner Champ (May 9, 2013)

"TYCO Electronics", someone should give them a call! email them the pic, see if you get a reply.:banghead:


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## B02S4 (Dec 26, 2012)

Boner Champ said:


> Ok, I pulled the fuse out and the blade was perfect. Took the screw out and replaced it with a nylon screw...I'm very confident the problem lies with the screw being a ground point so close to the hot leg on the box. Something, maybe mfg defect like a crack in the plastic, lets the current flow. It could be some weird environment condition corrodes enough...


 I think you've nailed the cause.


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## chicoze (Jan 9, 2010)

Well, I don´t think the screw is the culprit. The short to ground via the screw, could be the final stage of a long process. 

I have a 2010 Tiguan (SEL equivalent) with 3,5 years and 34.000km. So far, have never had any problems with my lights/fuse box. Anyway, I removed the 30A fuse and gave it a carefully check 

(see photo: http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9057115619/). 

It already shows initial signs of excess heat and rust on the leg near the screw. 
I checked with an ohmmeter and there is no short between the fuse socket and the screw. 

I believe the main reason is a poor design fuse box. The fuse socket is underdimensioned for the current passing through it. Over time and aging, the heat builts up and melts the fuse leg, the socket and the plastic surronding it. Eventually, it destroys the socket and could also cause a short to ground with the screw. Once the socket is compromised, the whole fuse box must be replaced. 

It seems that is a question of time and the use of the equipment (headlights, fog ligths and brake lights). 

I leave on a place that is hot all over the year and most of my drive is in heavy city traffic. I reckon that I never experienced the problem because I barely use that electrical circuit at its full capacity, I mean, I have HID which should draw less current than Halongens, I almost never use fog lights together with headlights and I use Auto-Hold all the time, which means that my brake lights are off when I stop at traffic lights or jams. 

Anyway, I replaced the fuse and, from now on, I will give it a check everytime I change oil. Its a shame that VW does not seem to bother with that problem which seems to be and old and wide spread issue through its lineup.


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## D-Caf (Mar 22, 2009)

chicoze said:


> ...together with headlights and I use Auto-Hold all the time, which means that my brake lights are off when I stop at traffic lights or jams...


 Just to check, but I believe your brake lights ARE on when you are stopped and using the auto-hold. If they were not you would actually be causing a dangerous situation as someone behind you might not realize that you are stopped. Yes they should notice that you aren't moving, but it's a legal requirement (at least in the US) that you have functioning brake lights that work when the brakes are depressed (that would include emergency brakes and auto-hold brakes).


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## chicoze (Jan 9, 2010)

I can assure you that the brake lights are off, at halt, when using Auto-Hold as well as eParking Brake, at least on my 2010 version. I guess, european versions do the same. 

Around here, if you stop at a traffic light or at a crossroads you don´t have to keep brake light on while at halt, on any other situation, if you stop along the road or coaster, you must keep the hazardous lights flashing. 

And yes, I am always aware to make sure that the guy coming behind knows I stopped, sometimes I keep pushing and releasing the brakes until someone gets close. 

Also, if I have to stop at the top of the road (hill) due to traffic ahead moving slowly or halted, I keep waiting untill someone queues behind and does not get a big surprise when start descending, because, in this situation, brake lights, either on or off, are useless.


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## Boner Champ (May 9, 2013)

My manual 6M, while stopped, activates no lights if I am at rest in N.


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## tig088 (Jun 19, 2011)

chicoze said:


> I can assure you that the brake lights are off, at halt, when using Auto-Hold as well as eParking Brake, at least on my 2010 version. I guess, european versions do the same.


 Confirmed, on my Tig it is the same when using Auto-Hold. The brake lights are triggered by the brake pedal only.


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## Boner Champ (May 9, 2013)

If you look, you see how the fuse is burned. Not from the body of the blade, but from very near the top, as if it arced-out across the top of the plastic interface...where it is closest to the screw head. 

 


I don't think capacity of the connectors is the issue, there are 40A on that same board.


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## smithtec (May 29, 2010)

*Add me to the list*

My '11 Tig is doing the same thing. I may remove screw as well. My car is completely stock down to the headlights. I DO typically run with the stock fog lights on. Boner Champ, please let us know if you have another melt. I am going to pull the screw in the meantime and keep fogs off for now.


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## gstrouse (Oct 13, 2000)

Boner_champ, I believe you are correct in your assumption. Electricity always looks for the route of least resistance. And can and will arc. The screw has to be at ground if it's connecting to any part of the sheet metal. I'm shocked at VW that they have not issued a fix on this. It's such a inexpensive fix. I have a 2012 SEL and will be doing the same thing you did. I can tell you that I'll be removing that screw asap.


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## chicoze (Jan 9, 2010)

Boner Champ said:


> If you look, you see how the fuse is burned. Not from the body of the blade, but from very near the top, as if it arced-out across the top of the plastic interface...where it is closest to the screw head.


 Yes, that is a good point. I haven´t paid attention to this. 

Also, the screw is close enough to let an electrical arch to occur even under only 12V, specially if the fuse is not well seated and under high humidity. 

I bought your explanation and, while I search for a plastic screw I will try to isolate it from the fuse with a tape (if there is enough room for that). 

Thanks.


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## B02S4 (Dec 26, 2012)

Another reason to disable DRL/PRL, at least for those of us not in CA.


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## D-Caf (Mar 22, 2009)

chicoze said:


> I can assure you that the brake lights are off, at halt, when using Auto-Hold as well as eParking Brake, at least on my 2010 version. I guess, european versions do the same.


 Wow, I stand corrected, though I'm really surprised. I can't say I agree with that design. Even if it's not mandated by law, I'd be nervous as hell being in stopped and go traffic with no brake lights on given the lack of attention span in drivers. 

So I guess that would lighten the load on the fuse. I had some minor light issues (two blown bulbs) before my fuse panel burned out. Still as said, poor design if it can't handle the normal load (and I have not modded my lights).


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## markk900 (Dec 31, 2009)

chicoze said:


> Yes, that is a good point. I haven´t paid attention to this.
> 
> Also, the screw is close enough to let an electrical arch to occur even under only 12V, specially if the fuse is not well seated and under high humidity.
> 
> ...


 chicoze: I too have a 2012 but the fuse box is not like the ones in the picture, and the 30A fuse is no longer near any kind of screw. At first I thought it might be related to the model change but your post indicates your 2012 has a similar fuse box to the older models.....is that true? 

edit: oops - misread - you have a 2010....it was gtrouse with the 2012...however, I guess the point is still - did the redesigned fuse box solve the issue?


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## chicoze (Jan 9, 2010)

markk900 said:


> I guess the point is still - did the redesigned fuse box solve the issue?


 markk900, I think you can tell us the answer in the near future!!! 

But looking your picture, it seems that this time, VW took Boner Champ advise and tried to keep fuses far away from any metalic screw. I hope it will close the case...but I still think they should call every earlier model years to change fuse box or, at least, isolate the problematic screw.


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## Cynthia Bras (Jun 18, 2013)

*melted fuse box '09 Jetta*

I am so thankful to find this discussion, altho I kinda can't believe I'm on an online automotive posting forum. I took my Jetta for an oil change/tire rotation today (with coupon) and knew I needed one, maybe two lights replaced. With a straight face, the service person told me I needed 6 lights replaced for $240+. I started crying since that was unexpected and NOT in my budget. Probably not the reaction he was looking for. I declined the repairs and figured I'd buy the bulbs somewhere else and figure out how to install them. He then announced I needed to replace my fuse box for $400... and that it was not under the Gold Ext Warranty I purchased (he was sweet to suggest it would have been covered had I gone platinum). It was melting... huh? Also not in my budget, so he said they would replace the melted fuse for $4 and miraculously all of my lights worked. I'm going to contact them tomorrow and tell them I think they should replace my fuse box... my car has less than 60K miles. Wish me luck!


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## markk900 (Dec 31, 2009)

Good luck Cynthia.....I might suggest you try a different service provider as well - since he knew about the fuse box then he should also have known the bulbs were fine.....


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## Boner Champ (May 9, 2013)

Maybe someone local can help her out. 

Location....?


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## Boner Champ (May 9, 2013)

+14.4v  

I may shoot some RTV into the gap, just to keep it clean and dry. I looked for a contact enhancer paste, but didn't find one yet. DO NOT use di-electric. 

I'll take a pic later.


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## D-Caf (Mar 22, 2009)

For comparison to the 2012 fuse boxes, here is a pick of my new replacement fuse box (after the first one melted). It appears to be the same design as the one that melted. Guess I'll found out in another 40k miles...


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## chicoze (Jan 9, 2010)

D-Caf, thanks for the picture.

Did you replace the problematic 30A fuse? It seems it has a different encapsulation from the original ones.

I guess if it is the way VW managed to overcome the problem (better insulation).


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## D-Caf (Mar 22, 2009)

That's the fuse the VW service people put in to replace the one that burned up. No idea if it's an improvement or just happens to be a different vendor than the originals (likely just a different vendor).


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## D-Caf (Mar 22, 2009)

Also, would like to remind people to please file a complaint with the NHTSA:

https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/index.xhtml

Unless they get enough reports of the issue they won't investigate and it won't become a recall. Though it didn't cost me anything to get mine fixed, I worry about the next time. And, it would be nice if the people who are paying out of pocket could get refunded.

And no, I'm not interested in a lawsuit, just want NHTSA to get onto VW and get them to fix this. I love my Tiguan and would like to have more confidence it's going to last the long haul.


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## MLue1 (Apr 27, 2008)

*Keep the melted fuse box!*

If someone has a melted fuse box that requires repair could you PLEASE ASK THE REPAIR SHOP OR THE MELTED FUSE BOX SO THAT AN EXPERT ON THIS BOARD CAN TAKE IT APART TO DETERMINE IF WE CAN FIX THIS PROBLEM WITH THE EXISTING FUSE BOX. If there is a practical fix this would help everyone in the VW community.


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## Boner Champ (May 9, 2013)

I was thinking that, it'd be nice to examine the wound on a deceased patient to see if the screw was involved at all. Looking at it again today, I see the set-up is only about 2mm space between + and -.

I also can't rule out the (more or less) instant failure vs the "gradual" failure. I'm open to suggestions.

Now, I'm going to WD-40 the empty fuse slot to avert any corrosion coming from below. Then I'll clean the top of the socket off so I can RTV half of the fuse in there.


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## Boner Champ (May 9, 2013)

Ok, I checked my can of copper-antiseize, it says that it enhances electrical contacts, so I used that! It def keeps corrosion down to zero, one job of the formula. 

I looked on Permatex site yesterday, and didn't find the same reference, but I remember it was def indicated, so I double checked. It says so on the can, enhances contacts.

Copper Anti-seize is for fasteners of dissimilar metals. It's the ticket for enhancing contact, and prevent corrosion. I'll add the RTV later to insulate extra good.


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## 432828 (Nov 21, 2008)

Boner Champ said:


> Ok, I checked my can of copper-antiseize, it says that it enhances electrical contacts, so I used that! It def keeps corrosion down to zero, one job of the formula.
> 
> I looked on Permatex site yesterday, and didn't find the same reference, but I remember it was def indicated, so I double checked. It says so on the can, enhances contacts.
> 
> Copper Anti-seize is for fasteners of dissimilar metals. It's the ticket for enhancing contact, and prevent corrosion. I'll add the RTV later to insulate extra good.


Good Job.. Keep us posted. Perhaps VW should reimburse you for the trouble ??  VW sure isn't doing anything about it.


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## Boner Champ (May 9, 2013)

Yes, but I have a VG relationship w/my dealer. They do extra stuff for me all the time.


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## Boner Champ (May 9, 2013)

pics...


Ready to insert fuse, copper anti-seize on the blade and socket, copper RTV in the gap, and nylon screw 









In and done....










I used copper RTV because that's the only one I had. At least it's non-flammable, unlike glues. Easy to pry out if I want to see the fuse in the future.


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## Angamie (Mar 16, 2009)

Crap.....I've been having intermittent headlight issues. Hasn't happened in the last month but this might explain why I get a headlight out and then it suddenly start working again. I'm the one they told that a new headlight would cost $500!


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## Boner Champ (May 9, 2013)

Maybe if the fuse isn't inserted all the way, the exposed blade may be more prone to grounding out.


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## shawng (Jul 28, 2007)

Prone to grounding out to what?


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## Boner Champ (May 9, 2013)

huh? The mounting screw.


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## Boner Champ (May 9, 2013)

*Smashed my rear window.*

Hit my own dumpster backing up and moshed the quarter just above the light.

ugh, pics in the light.


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## shawng (Jul 28, 2007)

The screw? 12V will not jump the 1/8" to the screw, through plastic that we already determined is not grounded. 
The problem is either a poor connection or an overload or a combination of both. High resistance at the contact point is generating heat. The reason why is still unknown.


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## Boner Champ (May 9, 2013)

shawng said:


> The reason why is still unknown.


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## liquidvw (Mar 20, 2003)

I've been following this thread. Yesterday I opened the hood (2011 Tiguan SE 4motion) and pulled my fuse for the headlight it looked fine. No issues. I tested the screw for ground. It does not connect to ground. Tested it with a meter. I also tested the 30 amp fuse socket. The fuse is always hot regardless of key in, or out, started or stopped. The hot side of the fuse is the side closer to the screw.


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## chicoze (Jan 9, 2010)

liquidvw said:


> I tested the screw for ground. It does not connect to ground. Tested it with a meter.


I confirm it on my 2010 SEL equivalent, none of the mounting screws are grounded. The assuptiom of a short between fuse and screw in not possible, unfortunately, for this would produce a simple correction for the problem.


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## vdubtech398 (Jul 19, 2007)

If you separate the burnt fuse panel you can pop off the burnt terminal ends and replace them with a non burnt terminal end. This being possible if you have a second fuse panel maybe an old one or one that has already been replaced. If that makes sense


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## MLue1 (Apr 27, 2008)

I just picked up my spare fuse box that I ordered, when I opened the box I expected to see maybe the board and connectors on the bottom of what we see of the fuse box now but to my surprise it is a totally sealed unit that has flat contacts underneath that look like the mate with something else. In order to find out what is over heating we will have to open and seperate the fuse box. My old one is still functioning without issue so hopefully someone donates a melted one.


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## Dhoff024 (Aug 28, 2011)

my fiances tiguan actually had the same issue where she had passenger side fog and headlight out at the same time checked bulbs no issues randomly checked fuse and saw that it was pretty melted and distorted really didn't think anything of it I just figured it was a bad fuse so I replaced it about 1k miles ago and have checked it once since then and haven't seen any issues. We bought the car certified pre owned with 34k on it and it now has almost 52 I would say problem happened around 50K it is under warranty until 60k or march of 14 under the certified warranty will they take a look at it now that I changed out the fuse and it is not doing anything anymore? Just thinking if this is going to be a constant issue I would like to get it fixed while there is still warranty just don't know if they will do anything now that the fuse was replaced and the issue is not occurring.


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## ljheidel (Jul 4, 2013)

Okay, this makes my blood boil and scares the heck out of me at the same time.

I was driving to my parents house (~600 miles) with my son for Memorial Day weekend in my 2011 Tiguan SE FWD with roughly 40,000 miles on it. I stopped midway and spent the night at a hotel. When I started my car the following morning, the VFD reported that my right low beam was faulty, then that the right front turn signal was faulty, then that the middle brake light was faulty. I thought, "this has to be a mistake," and got out to investigate. Yeah, all of those lights? Not working. I freaked out. I was 300 miles from home (with my son in the car), nowhere near a VW dealership, and out of warranty.

It was daylight, so I finished my drive and parked my car. I expected it to be a giant electrical problem, but the next day, I figured I'd take a look and see if it wasn't something simple. I opened the fuse box in the engine compartment and did a quick survey of the fuses. None were blown and I stood there scratching my head. Then I noticed something didn't look right with a green 30 amp fuse at the firewall end of the box. I pulled it out. The fuse was melted and discolored (it was almost identical to the examples on this thread,) and the socket and contact looked corroded. I tested the fuse with an meter, and it was still good. So, I cleaned it up with some fine sandpaper and put it back into the socket. This cleared the alarms.

It happened again on the way home a few days later. I stopped, cleaned the fuse again, and reinstalled it. It cleared the alarms again. Everything was fine for about 3 weeks, and it happened once again. This time, I replaced the fuse. This was about two weeks ago. So far, I haven't had anymore problems.

This problem happened once before, when I had under 10,000 miles on the car. I'd had VW electronics do weird things before that incident. For instance, my 2008 Rabbit once reported that everything in the car had gone wrong at the same time. I simply pulled over, shut it off, and restarted it. So, I did the same thing and it cleared the error. I now wish I would have driven straight to the dealership.

I've not taken it to the shop because I can't afford the repair right now. However, having read this thread, I think it's obvious that it's a manufacturing or engineering defect. My Tiguan is entirely stock. There's no reason this should happen. I'm going to print this thread and take it to the dealership when I go for my 40K maintenance in a few weeks. I hope that they'll fix it even though it's out of warranty.


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## 432828 (Nov 21, 2008)

Yeah, it can be a major pain in the A$ $ when this happens on a trip.
Let us know what the dealer or VWofA says.
VW should have taken care of this issue and released a tsb or recall a long time ago. Someone is going to get hurt one of these days and vw will just scratch their heads when a lawsuit come calling.


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## D-Caf (Mar 22, 2009)

And please, please fill out this form:

https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/index.xhtml

The more complaints they get the more likely it will be investigated and VW will HAVE to address it.


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## nfidel (Mar 16, 2009)

Just bought a 2011 Tiguan a few days ago. This thread had me a little panicky. Just went and checked the fuse box and sure enough, it has started "the melt". 28k miles.


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## 432828 (Nov 21, 2008)

nfidel said:


> Just bought a 2011 Tiguan a few days ago. This thread had me a little panicky. Just went and checked the fuse box and sure enough, it has started "the melt". 28k miles.


Be sure to fill this out.. more ammunition for recall:



https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/index.xhtml


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## Bevmo (Jun 24, 2009)

Well you made me go and look - and no issues.
Older 2009, 55k, SEL - HIDs, milder/dryer bay area weather...


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## nfidel (Mar 16, 2009)

Dealer replacing it for me under warranty. Tech said he's replaced a few, and the replacement is a better "reinforced" design. He poo-poo'd the idea of the screw causing it.


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## Boner Champ (May 9, 2013)

Is the part number listed on your invoice?


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## nfidel (Mar 16, 2009)

Boner Champ said:


> Is the part number listed on your invoice?


Yea. Part # 1K0-937-125-D


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## Pedestrian_A (Oct 13, 2005)

I had mine replaced today and it is covered by warranty. Dealer sent an over $400 bill to VW.

I called three different dealers and only one take this incident seriously while others just want me to wait a few more days and continue driving a car with 13 failed lights.


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## Boner Champ (May 9, 2013)

My cuz picked up a nice 2010, and had probs within a week. Luckily, I was able to diagnose it on the phone. (he was amazed)

Here is the offending fuse....










These vehicles look great in black...


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## 432828 (Nov 21, 2008)

Be sure to fill out NHTSA safety form. These can help fuel VW to create a recall and prevent any further customers from having problems or accidents.

https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/index.xhtml


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## blipsman (Nov 20, 2001)

Looks like we've been struck by this, too... my wife said she got 13 light warnings when she got in the car this AM. Just made an appointment to take our Tiguan into the dealer tomorrow morning. At least we're still under warranty. 2011 SEL w/ about 29k miles.

I'll ask for the part & file the complaint w/ NHTSA if this is actually the issue.


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## blipsman (Nov 20, 2001)

Yup, fuse panel was the culprit... picking it up after work tonight.

Once again, after doing my research here on VW Vortex I was able to correctly diagnose the issue and yet once again got the snide brush-off from the service consultant when I had the gall to speculate on what the issue might be.


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## blipsman (Nov 20, 2001)

I showed up at my dealer after work to pick up my car. They pull it around, and I go to pull out... NO POWER STEERING!!!

I hop out (blocking in 3 other customers waiting to exit garage) and charge back to the car hikers' kiosk. One said, "Oh, yeah it seemed to steer strange, but they said it was ready..."

WTF?!?!

They just park it and tell me it's good to go rather than saying there might be an issue they want to take a look at, or asking me about the steering?

Meanwhile, I'm supposed to be at a Rosh Hashanah dinner in 20 minutes. They take it back up to the garage to see if they can re-set it or something after replacing the fuse panel. After 15 min. or so I say I have to leave. They say they'll give me a loaner, but it'll take 20 min to get car ready & take care of paperwork. I have to be someplace in 5 min. at this point, so I tell them they're reimbursing a cab to which they agree. 

This AM I get a call from the dealer and apparently the power steering module went bad after the fuse panel replacement and it'll now be Monday at the earliest. Have to go back over there this evening after work to get a loaner from them...

Since buying my Tiguan in Mar 2012, I've dealt with this dealer's service dept. 3 times -- faulty KESSY sensor in driver's door handle, 30k service, and this issue. ALL THREE TIMES there have been major issues and ****-ups I discovered at pick-up. The level of incompetency is staggering.

My biggest concern is that we bought our extended warranty from this dealer and thus have no-deductible coverage only there once our factory warranty runs out. Does anybody know how to get VWOA or the warranty provider to let us change this? Can we cancel the policy and buy through different dealer? I DO NOT WANT TO BE HANDCUFFED TO THIS DEALER FOR ANOTHER 5 YEARS!!!


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## raffor (Oct 13, 2009)

I think most of us have the same experience with VW service. My old VW became a very reliable car once I did all the service and little repair myself. There is not way I would extend my warranty with them and get all upset. 

Good luck with your endevors.


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## D-Caf (Mar 22, 2009)

Are you positive the extended warranty is only good at that dealer? Did you buy the VW Platinum warranty or some strange one off the dealer offered? I bought an extended warranty with my VW when I bought the car from the dealer (as part of the overall price), but it's a VW (Fidelity) backed warranty and good at ANY VW service department.

Sucks about the service, can't believe no one thought that, hey we should probably fix that steering issue....


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## blipsman (Nov 20, 2001)

D-Caf said:


> Are you positive the extended warranty is only good at that dealer? Did you buy the VW Platinum warranty or some strange one off the dealer offered? I bought an extended warranty with my VW when I bought the car from the dealer (as part of the overall price), but it's a VW (Fidelity) backed warranty and good at ANY VW service department.


Yes, I have the VW Platinum warranty good at any VW dealer, but there's a deductible that'll be waived if service is done at the dealer where I bought my Tiguan (and the warranty). So I can go to any dealer for service, it'll just cost me $50 out of pocket if I do...


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## D-Caf (Mar 22, 2009)

blipsman said:


> Yes, I have the VW Platinum warranty good at any VW dealer, but there's a deductible that'll be waived if service is done at the dealer where I bought my Tiguan (and the warranty). So I can go to any dealer for service, it'll just cost me $50 out of pocket if I do...


Ah, ok, I went with the platinum with no deductible at all dealers. You could try and get the plan upgraded, though I fear you'll have little success. That or just always plan for 1 hour time for pickup (and that they may have screwed up again) or see if an occasional $50 is worth less than an hour of your time.

Sorry I don't have a good answer for you.


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## blipsman (Nov 20, 2001)

Finally did get my Tiguan back from the dealer on Monday evening... after they fixed the power steering module that somehow went bad after the fuse panel was replaced last week. When they brought it around, there were grease smudges on the back seat! 

Seriously, I've never seen a dealer as exceptionally incompetent as Fletcher Jones VW in Chicago.

I chewed out the valet manager (or whatever his title was) as he tried to pass the buck on the car wash guys. I AGAIN stated how it only takes 15 sec. for them to give each car a once over before telling the owner it's ready and that their quality assurance is ****! 

I got a call from the service manager yesterday, and from VWOA today to discuss the ongoing sloppiness of the dealer's repairs and condition of vehicles when returned to owners. I asked the VWOA about getting the $50 deductible on the CPO warranty (once that kicks in 4/14) waived, but she said that's a dealer sweetener and not an official part of the warranty -- basically the dealer pays the $50 to close the sale on warranty. But she was going to see if there was some way to get FJVW to reimburse it when I use other dealers in the future given their track record. We'll see...


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## EB12 (Dec 11, 2009)

37k miles. Entire right light fixture kept going out and coming back. Replaced the fuse, hopefully this is a bandaid for now. Some serious melt on the box

I did put in the pricey replacement headlight bulbs about a year ago


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## shawng (Jul 28, 2007)

The big black marks on the left blade have me concerned.


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## 432828 (Nov 21, 2008)

That looks a bit concerning. 


File your report:

https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/index.xhtml


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## SicariusInferi (Jun 3, 2013)

Add me to the club at just over 41k miles on my 2011 SEL 4mo. Just started getting warnings for multiple bulbs. Checked them and lots were out. Checked the fuse box and sure enough that part of the box was melted. I have an appointment next Saturday to bring it in. Kept the original fuse and put a spare in there for now and they're back on. For how long we'll see. This should be a recall or a warranty extension like the intake manifolds and the old coil issue on the 1.8t and 2.7t.


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## veedubb09 (Sep 29, 2013)

I just joined this site after I found this thread. I have an '09 Jetta that I've had since 2010 (with about 51,000 miles), and I've never had any problems with it until last week. The "bulb failure" light came on one day, then the next it was off, and then the next it was on again, and my passenger headlight was out when the light was on. I assumed a wire or something was loose (forgive me, but I don't know too much about cars, and I certainly didn't know anything about any of these melted fusebox issues). I also needed a tire rotation, so I just went ahead and scheduled an appointment to get it all done. Well, almost $600 later and I now have a new fusebox and rotated tires. I was shocked when they told me about the fusebox, especially the cost. This all occurred last Wednesday (9/18/2013). They showed me the burnt fuse, and I had them give me the old fusebox (per my fiance's request). 

Well, yesterday, guess what light came back on....that's right, the "bulb failure" light is on again. I got out and looked, and now my driver's side headlight is out! I haven't had a chance to really look at it yet, but I sincerely hope that it's just a bulb that I can replace myself.


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## 432828 (Nov 21, 2008)

veedubb09 said:


> I just joined this site after I found this thread. I have an '09 Jetta that I've had since 2010 (with about 51,000 miles), and I've never had any problems with it until last week. The "bulb failure" light came on one day, then the next it was off, and then the next it was on again, and my passenger headlight was out when the light was on. I assumed a wire or something was loose (forgive me, but I don't know too much about cars, and I certainly didn't know anything about any of these melted fusebox issues). I also needed a tire rotation, so I just went ahead and scheduled an appointment to get it all done. Well, almost $600 later and I now have a new fusebox and rotated tires. I was shocked when they told me about the fusebox, especially the cost. This all occurred last Wednesday (9/18/2013). They showed me the burnt fuse, and I had them give me the old fusebox (per my fiance's request).
> 
> Well, yesterday, guess what light came back on....that's right, the "bulb failure" light is on again. I got out and looked, and now my driver's side headlight is out! I haven't had a chance to really look at it yet, but I sincerely hope that it's just a bulb that I can replace myself.


You may want to contact VWoA and tell them about your problem. This is an ongoing issue and I feel VW "needs" to step up and take care of this issue. They should also reimburse you. Keep your receipts in case there is a recall or tsb.
This may very well come back and bite VW in the a$$ if they don't take care of it. This issue can (will) cause an accident sooner or later.


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## SicariusInferi (Jun 3, 2013)

Alright dropped off the car Saturday, they had to hold on to it until monday when the warranty admin could contact VWoA. VWoA ended up agreeing to cover 75% of it and I had it back at the end of the day Monday. The adviser knew exactly what I was talking about when I pulled in. He's had two others come in with the same issue and it was enough that they kept a fuse box on hand just in case. Still think this should be a warranty extension issue/recall but 75% is better than 0% I guess. 

The dealership was great about it though, wasn't expecting a loaner because I didn't buy the vehicle from them. But they gave me a loaner no problem and were great to deal with.


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## 432828 (Nov 21, 2008)

SicariusInferi said:


> Alright dropped off the car Saturday, they had to hold on to it until monday when the warranty admin could contact VWoA. VWoA ended up agreeing to cover 75% of it and I had it back at the end of the day Monday. The adviser knew exactly what I was talking about when I pulled in. He's had two others come in with the same issue and it was enough that they kept a fuse box on hand just in case. Still think this should be a warranty extension issue/recall but 75% is better than 0% I guess.
> 
> The dealership was great about it though, wasn't expecting a loaner because I didn't buy the vehicle from them. But they gave me a loaner no problem and were great to deal with.


Glad you got it fixed. Hang onto that receipt. If/When a recall is made you should be able to get what you paid back.


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## tigatola (May 26, 2010)

The bottom line is the fuse shouldn't be getting hot enough to become damaged (other than the filament inside in the event of an overload condition) never mind become hot enough to melt the surrounding fuse box. I know it _is_ happening, the point being that it _shouldn't_ be if everything is working according to the fuse specification. 

My initial thoughts would be that VW is sourcing cheap Chinese fuses that are generating more heat passing normal amounts of current than 30A worth of draw should allow. The primary role of the fuse is to fail upon reaching a pre-determined temperature to prevent that sort of damage, and these are just not doing that- the cost difference is not worth the black eye such failures bring to an auto manufacturer in terms of reliability concerns.

Has anyone who has a melted fuse/fuse box tried swapping the offending fuse out with a premium one? I am sure measuring temperature on an OEM fuse vs. a Bussmann might have some interesting insight into the problem.

http://www.cooperindustries.com/con...automotive_fuses/blade_fuses_atmatcmaxid.html


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## hurleyintl81 (Jul 15, 2013)

Just recently joined the club of the melting fuse box. 2011 Tiguan with 20100 miles. Had the random light out indicator come on and off with the passenger headlight out when the indicator was on. After reading this thread I was worried this was the issue I was having. I haven't had a chance to pull the fuse to look at it and I had the 20000 mile service scheduled so I told the dealer to take a look at it. They ordered a new fuse box so it should be fixed on Monday. Just glad it happened now instead of a couple months from now when the warranty runs out. Technician said this was the second melting fuse box he fixed but on a different model. I agree with the statement above, fuses are meant to fail when too much amperage is drawn, it shouldn't get to the point where it heats up and melts.


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## Weezey (Oct 18, 2013)

You guys are a fantastic resource, my 2010 Tiguan is in right now for what is likely this same issue. The service techs referred to it as a "thermal event". They're going to bat with VW to see if they can make it warrantied replacement, but I'll definitely start checking that fuse regularly.

edit:

They just came out to tell me VW said they won't cover it since I'm over warranty (which I expected, even though it's their own poor manufacturing judging by this thread) They're charging me 3 hours of diagnostics to find the issue, meanwhile the first thing I said when I walked in the door was that it sounds like a fuse box problem. If they'd looked at what I told them to first, my total including taxes wouldn't be $950! There has to be a better way to get cars serviced. This is ridiculous.


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## raffor (Oct 13, 2009)

Weezey said:


> They just came out to tell me VW said they won't cover it since I'm over warranty (which I expected, even though it's their own poor manufacturing judging by this thread) They're charging me 3 hours of diagnostics to find the issue, meanwhile the first thing I said when I walked in the door was that it sounds like a fuse box problem. If they'd looked at what I told them to first, my total including taxes wouldn't be $950! There has to be a better way to get cars serviced. This is ridiculous.


Happened to me too, but fortunately I was under warranty. I have VagCom and I even brought the print out of the error code and a diagnose from someone on the forum. They did not want to see it and of course, they did not fix the problem. When I was back in their "service" department the second time around, they now wanted to see the print outs. 

I personally would not have paid for that, especially when you already told them the cause. I would try to get to the dealership owner to get that resolved.


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## 432828 (Nov 21, 2008)

Weezey said:


> meanwhile the first thing I said when I walked in the door was that it sounds like a fuse box problem. If they'd looked at what I told them to first, my total including taxes wouldn't be $950! There has to be a better way to get cars serviced. This is ridiculous.


950.00?!? Jeez. I would certainly be in a bloody screaming match with VW over this one.

Be sure to go to NHTSA site and submit your findings. Sooner or Later VW will have to give in or lose a lot of loyal customers.

https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/index.xhtml

I am actually looking for a new car next week and some of the vw stories on here have me looking at a few other options/manufacturers


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## Weezey (Oct 18, 2013)

So the dealership did some pressuring on their regional management and they're going to refund me 90% of the cost of the repair and part, but not the (useless) 3 hours (at $106/hr) of diagnostics. So I'm paying for only the cost of the labour I'm annoyed with, not the part of the job that actually fixed the problem.

Also the rear brake and side light blew, probably from being overworked with the extra voltage or something. Fortunately those are easy to replace and dirt cheap.


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## sghokie (Apr 1, 2005)

48k mile 2011 Tiguan Joining the melted fuse panel club.
What a joke.

I seriously can't believe that VW isn't covering this problem.
I have owned a lot of cars over the last 25 years never one has had anything go wrong like this.


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## David9962000 (Feb 2, 2011)

At this rate, we're all going to be driving Toyotas. At least, they're reliable.


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## blipsman (Nov 20, 2001)

The electrical systems in VW's are a joke... I had the fusebox melting issue a few months ago, on my 2011 Tiguan w/ about 27k mi. I had issues with the KESSY system in the first couple months I owned our Tiguan (bought 1 yr old as a CPO) and I am again having those issues, where the car will only unlock/lock about half the time so I have to use the remote. Also, we're now getting an error: "Bend Lighting (AFS) Failure," so I'm not sure if that's electrical, too. Been pretty par for the course on VW's... I had speaker wiring issues in my Jetta that took months for them to diagnose, and I had to have my fuse panel and steering column in my Passat replaced.

The rational part of my brain says to go with a Honda or Toyota, but my emotional parts say a few days in the shop is better than a soulless driving experience all year long... of couse, VW's sh!tty dealer service departments shift the argument further toward the Japanese with every visit.


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## mercavius (May 16, 2002)

I just read through this whole thread today. I decided to go check my fuse box. Sure enough that fuse was melted. This is on my 2011 Tiguan SE 4Motion... with only 20k miles on it. Considering the amount the fuse is melted this probably started at 15k miles.










I'm under warranty until this December. Is there any benefit to getting the box replaced by the dealer or will this just happen again. Should I just keep replacing the fuse every thousand miles instead?


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## mercavius (May 16, 2002)

Part number is 0-1718128-1 E... are there any newer revisions than E that fix this issue?


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## Bsaint (Mar 26, 2008)

Just wondering has anyone had this problem with the Tig 2's yet? or with HID equiped vehicles?


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## markk900 (Dec 31, 2009)

Bsaint said:


> Just wondering has anyone had this problem with the Tig 2's yet? or with HID equipped vehicles?


I'm wondering too - the 2012+ has a completely different fuse box (see previous picture), however I had a hard time believing the problem is the plastic fuse box - something else is wrong. But the entire thread consists of 2011 or earlier fuse box issues. What else changed?

BTW I have a 2012 4Motion Comfortline (SE) with HID....


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## gilesrulz (Nov 2, 2006)

markk900 said:


> I'm wondering too - the 2012+ has a completely different fuse box (see previous picture), however I had a hard time believing the problem is the plastic fuse box - something else is wrong. But the entire thread consists of 2011 or earlier fuse box issues. What else changed?
> 
> BTW I have a 2012 4Motion Comfortline (SE) with HID....


It's not just a plastic fuse box. If you read through this thread, there's a circuit board in it. 

Having said that, I've not seen any post facelift cars or HID cars in this thread.


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## markk900 (Dec 31, 2009)

gilesrulz said:


> It's not just a plastic fuse box. If you read through this thread, there's a circuit board in it.
> 
> Having said that, I've not seen any post facelift cars or HID cars in this thread.


Yeah - I realize its more than a box; was just being brief. However, what has bothered me altogether is that the basic function of a fuse is to melt (blow) prior to circuit overload - how the heck can a fuse heat up enough to melt the box without blowing the fuse material? Makes me think the fuse itself is at fault. Of course, I'm old enough to think a 30A fuse in a car is already overload - never mind the 50 and 100A fuses elsewhere in the box!

Glad (for my sake) to hear the 2012+ cars seem to be a very low percentage (ie. 0) of the reports so far.


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## Bsaint (Mar 26, 2008)

markk900 said:


> I'm wondering too - the 2012+ has a completely different fuse box (see previous picture), however I had a hard time believing the problem is the plastic fuse box - something else is wrong. But the entire thread consists of 2011 or earlier fuse box issues. What else changed?
> 
> BTW I have a 2012 4Motion Comfortline (SE) with HID....


Right, like isn't that the function of a fuse in the first place... essentially a fail safe to protect the device and circuit from receiving too much current. It boggles my mind to see that all of these fuses are melted almost the same way and causing the box to melt without blowing first. 

It also boggles my mind that VW is replacing the fuse box with the same exact box meaning this can and will happen again. My hope is that either HID or LED headlights won't cause this problem seeing as they don't require as much energy, but I guess only time will tell.


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## mercavius (May 16, 2002)

My dealer replaced my fuse box with zero fuss. I strongly recommend that everyone with a 2011 or earlier check their fuse box BEFORE their warranty expires. Chances are its already going bad but won't start causing issues until out of warranty.


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## johnand (Nov 13, 2011)

Anyone that has the melting issue try a lower amp rated fuse? I would suggest starting with a 25A and work down from there until it blows, then step back up. I suspect the fuse rating is just too high.


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## 20-valve (May 8, 2003)

Add me to the mix.

09 SE halogens 85k miles

bought used all well knowing this was an issue and made it a point to look at the box before we even drove it.

was good as new 2.5 months ago now go to an appointment with the wife, come back out start it up and the bulb out indicator is on. No main/dipped/turn lights on the passenger side.

I called a tech friend as well as the dealer I used to work at Service Manager to see if there have been any internal TSBs to VW regarding this.

My only hope would be if the regional service rep is the same as when I worked there and helps me out as we had a good relationship with him at the time.

Anyone know what the cost of the part is by itself?


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## markk900 (Dec 31, 2009)

johnand said:


> Anyone that has the melting issue try a lower amp rated fuse? I would suggest starting with a 25A and work down from there until it blows, then step back up. I suspect the fuse rating is just too high.


this is exactly what I was thinking.....seems to me if the 30 is not blowing then some part of the wiring leading to the hot lead is under-spec'd and causing the heat. Therefore the 30A fuse is really not a fuse at all. I would however start low and work up - 15A or 20A and if it holds then you are sure there won't be an issue.


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## shawng (Jul 28, 2007)

Changing the fuse will not resolve the issue. Say you put in a 10A and it blows, this tells you the circuit is drawing more than 10A. then you try 15 and it blows, then 20 and it holds. Al this will tell you is that the load is under 20A. Putting in the 30A will have the same effect. That also means that at 20A the circuit is still overloaded. The fuse does not limit current, and since you have not reduced the current draw, the problem persists. And if you put in too small a fuse and it keeps blowing, this could be another safety issue. what if it blows at night and your headlamps go out? If this is indeed an overload in the circuit, then the only way to fix it is to reduce the load.


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## markk900 (Dec 31, 2009)

You are correct Shawn - a lower capacity fuse will not resolve the issue - but it moves the problem to an easily replaceable (and inexpensive) component rather than leaving the issue as a melted fuse box that could cost $1000 to replace. Only problem would be that now VW has no reason to replace the box and would complain that one is using the wrong fuse.

Has anyone had the problem after the fuse box was replaced? It is possible (likely) that the defect lies in the load capacity of the wiring closest to the fuse (I think the circuit was intended to handle 30A as the same circuit is still 30A in the newer Tigs), so if the circuit board in the box itself was corrected then the new box should resolve the problem permanently. Or perhaps it was a bad batch of fuse boxes (not as likely as it seems we've seen the issue in 2009, 10 and 11 examples).


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## 432828 (Nov 21, 2008)

Mine went last week.. Actually 2 days before the wife and I traded it in. The fuse was burned but fuse box was not yet affected. I replaced the 30A fuse.
Traded the Tig in 2 days later and told them to check the known fuse problem. I doubt they will even bother.


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## 20-valve (May 8, 2003)

The weird thing about this is why is only the passenger side fuse/circuit that's having issues.

The drivers side is also a 30A but never has issues.

It has to be something with the layout or the proximity to that screw.

Has anyone actually taken the box off and looked at the underside or traced the hot/melting side back to the battery or where it goes next?


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## David9962000 (Feb 2, 2011)

http://www.chicagotribune.com/class...s-vw-probe-20131108,0,4487542.story?track=rss


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## shawng (Jul 28, 2007)

Whoohoo!!! thank you to everyone who complained!


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## MLue1 (Apr 27, 2008)

+2 Thanks to everyone who took the time to document and submit a complaint.


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## D-Caf (Mar 22, 2009)

David9962000 said:


> http://www.chicagotribune.com/class...s-vw-probe-20131108,0,4487542.story?track=rss


Yep, someone else in the other thread posted this link http://www.detroitnews.com/article/20131108/AUTO0104/311080063/1148/rss25

So it's definitely out there.

Thank you all for submitting your complaints, hopefully this will get things fixed!


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## 432828 (Nov 21, 2008)

Finally! Those who paid out of pocket hold onto those receipts...
Thanks to those who submitted reports


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## Bsaint (Mar 26, 2008)

awesome work everyone!!!


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## blipsman (Nov 20, 2001)

gilesrulz said:


> Having said that, I've not seen any post facelift cars or HID cars in this thread.


My 2011 (pre-facelife) Tiguan SEL has HID and I had the fuse panel problem a couple months ago at about 26k miles... I mentioned the issue up-thread but perhaps not that I had HID


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## AvalancheAK (Nov 11, 2013)

*Another one..*

It appears as though we may have good timing. Just joined the club this morning with our 09 Tig SE, right about 40K
Right headlight, blinker, etc all out..


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## shawng (Jul 28, 2007)

http://www.inautonews.com/huge-volkswagen-recall-affects-1-68m-cars-worldwide#.UoUNZuIqd0d


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## sparkytiguan (Nov 14, 2013)

A recall has been published. "Replacing the fuse with one with a tougher surface coating" is the solution by VW.

https://www.volkswagen-media-servic...recalls-Tiguan-for-fuse-exchange/view/685711/


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## D-Caf (Mar 22, 2009)

Wait, so we now have to always get these special replacement fuses from VW? Standard fuses don't work? Not impressed, at all!

And what about people who had to pay to have their fuse box replace, and what happens to those in the future, do they get them replaced for free?

This does not look promising if this is their solution for the melting fuse box issue.


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## AvalancheAK (Nov 11, 2013)

Yeah, I'd wonder what the solution is for those that already have a melted box?

I can "fix" it with a small screwdriver and needle nose and give the fuse better contact to its connection, that's a better solution than an "updated fuse".


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## ocramida (Nov 26, 2012)

Did you guys see this? Looks like the melting fuse box is part of the recall.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?t=6858257


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## JOES1.8T (Sep 8, 2003)

I am hoping we are able to receive some kind of refund for repairs paid out of pocket. This same issue happened to my wife's 2010 Wolfsburg Edition earlier this year. We are both stationed here in Germany where getting any type of car repair service is just freaking expensive. We paid roughly €280 to get it fixed in February of this year with a conversion rate of today's rate of roughly $376 dollars give or take a dollar or two during that time. This was through a local VW dealership, one thing to add which I found interesting, German auto dealerships bill you through the mail so you don't have to pay the sameday you pick up. Thought that was strange.


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## danadeny (May 6, 2002)

A worldwide recall has hit VWA worldwide recall has hit VW, with about 2.6 million cars involved. It's not a recall for just one car either. 750,000 cars in the US and China are being recalled for possible transmission issues. 800,000 Tiguans are being recalled for faulty fuses along with 239,000 Amarok pickups. Add in advisories sent out to inform other countries, and you have 2.6 million cars included.


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## Scott Evil (Aug 21, 2002)

Is this impacting cars with factory HIDs or just Halogens? Not sure from all of the responses in this thread.


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## chicoze (Jan 9, 2010)

Scott Evil said:


> Is this impacting cars with factory HIDs or just Halogens? Not sure from all of the responses in this thread.



Both.


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## shawng (Jul 28, 2007)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6762334-Melting-Fuse-box-poll


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## ElSupremo (Mar 22, 2012)

D-Caf said:


> Yep, someone else in the other thread posted this link http://www.detroitnews.com/article/20131108/AUTO0104/311080063/1148/rss25
> 
> So it's definitely out there.
> 
> Thank you all for submitting your complaints, hopefully this will get things fixed!


The poster was me, but that's not why I'm writing. Subject - "Chinese" fuses

Installed a car DVR the other day and tapped into the fuse box to get Acc Power (Fuse 29 on my car). Well, a few days ago I discovered the rear window wiper wasn't working, so I checked the fuse box. I had a 3 amp and a 15 amp installed on a dual fuse fusebox adapter widget, and both fuses checked out. Then just for grins I removed the dual fuse fusebox adapter widget and plugged the 15 amp directly in.

Lo and behold, saints be praised, the rear wiper now works. I had the fuses interchanged. So I swapped them out and put the dual fuse fusebox adapter widget back in. And this now asks the musical question-

WTF didn't the 3 amp fuse blow when I tried to energize the rear wiper motor? Why did it in fact simply not work? The fuse ohmed out correctly in the fuse holder (not quite 0 ohms but stable, but I attribute that to a flaky connection on the adapter), so I'm somewhat at a loss. I suppose it's POSSIBLE that the finite fuse resistance I measured is real and it was enough to keep the wiper from working but too high to blow the fuse. And that's the reason I posted here - if the fuse resistance is high enough it could generate enough heat to melt Chinese plastic (Power = I^2R) but not enough to blow the link.

Anyway, beware of Chinese fuses (at least from Harbor Freight)...


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## shawng (Jul 28, 2007)

http://www.topspeed.com/cars/car-ne...se-fuses-defective-and-dangerous-ar42923.html
http://money.cnn.com/2007/09/05/autos/fuse_recall/


i know these were back a few year, but i bet the problem has not gone away.


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## chicoze (Jan 9, 2010)

Has anyone already attended the fuse recall?

I am curious to know if the new 30A fuse (position F16) is the same that was used in OP replaced fusebox back in January (see image on post # 66, page 2).

Well, I still don´t think that the fuse is the main culprit. I believe that the problem lies on the socket instead.

The first reason is that we never heard about such failure occuring on the left side light's circuit which should bear the same electrical current. In fact, this other fuse (position F26) is also a 30A one. The big difference is its size, I mean, it is larger. So it can provide a larger area for metal contact with the socket.

The other reason is the complete redesign of the fusebox from MY 2012+ (see image on post #60, page 2). Now it seems both fuse are equal (larger).

Anyway, I hope that the new fuse (recall) could provide a better contact and maybe a better insulation that could also work as a heatsink. If not, we would still have to deal with the problem in the future.


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## JCWolf1.8T (Mar 12, 2004)

Latest person with the melting fuse box. The dealer did not mention a recall but replaced the fuse box free of charge yesterday :thumbup:


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## halbwissen (Jul 20, 2001)

The dealer just replaced the fuse plate in my wife's 2011 Tiguan. 
I'll keep an eye on it and report back if there's any issues.


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## SicariusInferi (Jun 3, 2013)

So even though I had this failure I checked my VIN with VW and they're telling me it has no active recalls. I filed a complaint with NHTSA just to be on the safe side.


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## Juicy_R32 (Aug 2, 2009)

Thanks for the info guys, this really helped. Ran into this problem just now, 2012 Tig all my lights died. Going to the dealer this weekend.


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## garethusa (Jan 13, 2003)

Is Juicy_R32 the first 2012 Tiguan with this issue?


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## MLue1 (Apr 27, 2008)

shawng said:


> http://www.topspeed.com/cars/car-ne...se-fuses-defective-and-dangerous-ar42923.html
> http://money.cnn.com/2007/09/05/autos/fuse_recall/
> 
> 
> i know these were back a few year, but i bet the problem has not gone away.


I'll bet the supplier resold them to another company… wanna guess who.


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## arakele (Dec 31, 2003)

This happened to my wifes '09 Tiguan. Is there a TSB number to reference when calling the dealer?


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## shawng (Jul 28, 2007)

There is no TSB, it a full on recall


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## B02S4 (Dec 26, 2012)

DriveVW4Life said:


> The dealer just replaced the fuse plate...


I presume you mean only the fuse itself & not the fuse box, correct?


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## Ironcladd (Feb 23, 2014)

B02S4 said:


> I presume you mean only the fuse itself & not the fuse box, correct?


If the fuse has already progressed to the point of melting the box, then they will replace the box. Just had our Tiguan in the shop and they replaced both the fuse and plate all under warranty.


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## B02S4 (Dec 26, 2012)

Ironcladd said:


> If the fuse has already progressed to the point of melting the box, then they will replace the box. Just had our Tiguan in the shop and they replaced both the fuse and plate all under warranty.


I get it, however that wasn't the question asked.


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## cwalstad (Mar 18, 2014)

*93 jetta fuse box melt*

93 jetta fuse box melted replaced fuse box but in addition also replaced alternator wire with thick battery cable havent had problem since


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## cwalstad (Mar 18, 2014)

i had same problem i replaced fuse box o'reillys had it for 46.00 but i also replace alternator wire with a much thicker battery cable no more melting


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## KVWilliams (Feb 15, 2010)

I should note, a long standing issue i've had with my electronic handbrake has resolved after they replaced my fusebox recently. 

The issue I had before with the electronic handbrake was it would fail to release when pressing down on the button, the console would beep a bunch of times and would say a brake error occurred and tell me to reference the manual. I would have to re-engage the hand brake and try again, sometimes multiple times to get it to release! This issue was completely resolved once the fuse box was replaced which leads me to believe it's more than the exterior lights this issue affects. Again, just an FYI in case some experiences similar issues with their electronic hand brake switch, they can find this in a search as a possible lead.


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