# Not sure if this belongs but i need help!



## prenne5050 (Jun 22, 2008)

So basically been trying to install fog lights for the past weeks and I have midline module, so I'm running a relay in my 2008 Volkswagen rabbit.








I turned the euros witch to fog lights and measured the voltage. I tested the the voltage between the ground and fuse(red n brown) and got 12 volts and the trigger wire and ground and get 12 volts(blue n brown) there is no voltage from any of the yellow wires that go to the actuall fogs. 

Then I plugged into the relay, and did the same measurements,








The voltage from fuse to ground is 12 volts(red to brown) and the voltage from trigger to ground is now 3-4 volts(blue to brown). And there is still now power to any yellow wires or lights. Need help badly!


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

If you have power on the plug, but are not getting anything out of the relay, either you have the wires to the relay wrong, or the relay is bad.


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## GTACanuck (Feb 20, 2009)

Blue wire is trigger. Make sure you have that running from your euroswitch - Test voltage 12v 
Brown is ground 
Red wire should be hooked up with an inline fuse to the battery or another 12v constant (maybe in bay fuse rail as a possibility) - Test voltage between the brown and the red - 12v 

Yellow wires should run directly to your fogs 
create close grounds for each fog 

Test again, these instructions should have you all set and if it still is not working you probably have a bad relay. Hope this helps


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## prenne5050 (Jun 22, 2008)

GTACanuck said:


> Blue wire is trigger. Make sure you have that running from your euroswitch - Test voltage 12v
> Brown is ground
> Red wire should be hooked up with an inline fuse to the battery or another 12v constant (maybe in bay fuse rail as a possibility) - Test voltage between the brown and the red - 12v
> 
> ...


 is the voltage supposed to drop when you plug into relay? Because i measured the trigger wire to ground and got 12 volts but when i plugged it into the relay, it dropped to 4 volts


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## f5racing (Sep 9, 2012)

You should have no voltage drop across the relay (less than 1mv). You should have 12V at the trigger when switched on, 12v at the source at all times (if wired to battery, if wired to accy or ign it will read 12v only when the car is on.), Ground on the Brown ground wire, and 12V on the output wire when triggered. There is a NC and NO wire present. You want to use the NO wire. This should be pin 87. Pin 87a is the NC, and will just mirror the input wire from the 12v source until the relay is triggered, and then it will show OPEN. If you have 12v at the source wire with no load, but a large drop in voltage after it is triggered, then you have a bad ground. Check that your ground connection is good and clean, and also into a good piece of the chassis. If this is good, and the wire is not broken, check resistance from the connecter side of the relay to the battery ground. If this is all good, you may have a bad relay. Local car audio shop will have them for about $10. 


EDIT: Also make sure your connetion to the trigger is good. It only takes about 150mA to tirgger the relay, but if your connection at the head light circuit is bad, that may not be happening. Still more than likely a ground issue though.


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## prenne5050 (Jun 22, 2008)

f5racing said:


> You should have no voltage drop across the relay (less than 1mv). You should have 12V at the trigger when switched on, 12v at the source at all times (if wired to battery, if wired to accy or ign it will read 12v only when the car is on.), Ground on the Brown ground wire, and 12V on the output wire when triggered. There is a NC and NO wire present. You want to use the NO wire. This should be pin 87. Pin 87a is the NC, and will just mirror the input wire from the 12v source until the relay is triggered, and then it will show OPEN. If you have 12v at the source wire with no load, but a large drop in voltage after it is triggered, then you have a bad ground. Check that your ground connection is good and clean, and also into a good piece of the chassis. If this is good, and the wire is not broken, check resistance from the connecter side of the relay to the battery ground. If this is all good, you may have a bad relay. Local car audio shop will have them for about $10.
> 
> 
> EDIT: Also make sure your connetion to the trigger is good. It only takes about 150mA to tirgger the relay, but if your connection at the head light circuit is bad, that may not be happening. Still more than likely a ground issue though.


 the source(red wire terminal 30) is always at 12 volts. The only voltage that drops is the trigger wire and ground. If you can tell in the first picture, the relay is not connected but I measured the voltage across the trigger wire and ground and it read 12 volts. But when i plugged into the relay, as in the second picture, and measured the voltage between the trigger and ground, it only read 4 volts. I did this with two different relays of same brand and same readings came out. 

And this is SPST, so there are two 87 terminals no 87a. still not working.  i really dont want to take this to a shop when they'll charge a but load for probably a simple error.


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## f5racing (Sep 9, 2012)

What are you using for a trigger wire? A simple switch or the fog equip'd headlight switch?


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## prenne5050 (Jun 22, 2008)

f5racing said:


> What are you using for a trigger wire? A simple switch or the fog equip'd headlight switch?


 euroswitch, the trigger wire goes into pin "5". Im pretty sure the trigger wire works because, when the switch is off, no voltage, when on 12 volts 

exceot when plugged into relay, then its 0 volts when switch is off and 4 volts when switch is on


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## f5racing (Sep 9, 2012)

prenne5050 said:


> euroswitch, the trigger wire goes into pin "5". Im pretty sure the trigger wire works because, when the switch is off, no voltage, when on 12 volts
> 
> exceot when plugged into relay, then its 0 volts when switch is off and 4 volts when switch is on


 Okay, just wanted to make sure that the switch was being used. If you have 0v off, and only 4v on, you probably have a ground issue. What did you use for the ground on the relay?


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## prenne5050 (Jun 22, 2008)

I'm using the same ground that other wires are grounded too. I'll take pictures tomorrow of the ground.


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## f5racing (Sep 9, 2012)

prenne5050 said:


> I'm using the same ground that other wires are grounded too. I'll take pictures tomorrow of the ground.


 If there are other grounds using the same spot, it should be fine, but I would try to use a new ground just to be sure. Just reading over the basic instructions for the ECS fog retrofit, and by your description everything is installed fine per their setup. Without seeing the car in person, it is hard to tell, but I would check all your connections again today, as well as all the wiring to make sure (especially now after taking a break from it, really helps). Before taking it to a shop, I would run all new wiring, and use female spade connectors at the relay, just to try and rule out anything weird. I would also try it with a SPDT relay, just leave 87a blank. *just because SPDT are easier to come by, and it will help to eliminate one more thing.* 


EDIT: Does anybody know what the rated current output is on the Euro Switch trigger output? Just in case it is something around 150mA and the relay(s) are just super inefficient.


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## Geo (Nov 14, 2000)

assuming you haven't crossed any wires on your fog lights and they have proper grounding themselves, I would do a quick test to bypass the switch to make sure everything else still works. 

With the lights hooked up and your constant voltage supplied to the relay, make a long trigger wire and touch it on the battery. If the lights come on, then you know there is something in the switch causing the issue. If the lights don't come on or are really dim, you still have a grounding issue.


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## prenne5050 (Jun 22, 2008)

Geo said:


> assuming you haven't crossed any wires on your fog lights and they have proper grounding themselves, I would do a quick test to bypass the switch to make sure everything else still works.
> 
> With the lights hooked up and your constant voltage supplied to the relay, make a long trigger wire and touch it on the battery. If the lights come on, then you know there is something in the switch causing the issue. If the lights don't come on or are really dim, you still have a grounding issue.


 yeah im gonna do this test sometime this weekend and also try all new wiring and start over. Hopefully something will change


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## prenne5050 (Jun 22, 2008)

Geo said:


> assuming you haven't crossed any wires on your fog lights and they have proper grounding themselves, I would do a quick test to bypass the switch to make sure everything else still works.
> 
> With the lights hooked up and your constant voltage supplied to the relay, make a long trigger wire and touch it on the battery. If the lights come on, then you know there is something in the switch causing the issue. If the lights don't come on or are really dim, you still have a grounding issue.


 ok so i did the trigger wire test and ran it straight through to battery and the fogs do come on. So is the problem the euroswitch or something to do with it?


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## prenne5050 (Jun 22, 2008)

i also had these faults on vagcom 

Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 3C0-937-049-30-M.lbl 
Part No SW: 3C0 937 049 AH HW: 3C0 937 049 AH 
Component: Bordnetz-SG H54 2202 
Revision: 00H54000 Serial number: 00000008242806 
Coding: 008D0F214004150047140000001400000008730B5C00010000 0000000000 
Shop #: WSC 00000 785 00200 
VCID: 6FC3054A7EA6B260C8F 

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1K1 955 119 E Labels: 1KX-955-119.CLB 
Component: Wischer 170408 021 0501 
Coding: 00038805 
Shop #: WSC 00000 

2 Faults Found: 
01800 - Light Switch (E1) 
008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent 
Freeze Frame: 
Fault Status: 00101000 
Fault Priority: 3 
Fault Frequency: 5 
Reset counter: 49 
Mileage: 115893 km 
Time Indication: 0 
Date: 2005.09.13 
Time: 31:63:63 

Freeze Frame: 
OFF 
Voltage: 12.60 V 
OFF 
ON 
OFF 
OFF 
OFF 

02195 - Dimmer Switch Instrument Panel & Switch Lighting (E20) 
009 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent 
Freeze Frame: 
Fault Status: 00101001 
Fault Priority: 5 
Fault Frequency: 1 
Reset counter: 49 
Mileage: 115893 km 
Time Indication: 0 
Date: 2005.09.13 
Time: 31:63:63 

Freeze Frame: 
OFF 
Voltage: 12.50 V 
OFF 
ON 
OFF 
OFF 
OFF


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## prenne5050 (Jun 22, 2008)

i also found this, http://bellsouthpwp2.net/a/p/apollo73/Controller_3C0937049D_Fog_Lights.pdf 

i hope its not necessary


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## prenne5050 (Jun 22, 2008)

in case anyone was wondering, the above link did solve the problem and if anyone has problems and needs help, let me know


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## sagerabbit (Aug 14, 2007)

Thanks for this as I've been planning to do it over the Thanksgiving weekend.


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