# New to me 01 B5 needs some engine/alt help



## spsherm (Jun 10, 2006)

Just picked up an 01 Passat 4motion wagon with the 30 value V6 engine in it. The PO inherited this car and seems like he drove it until it wouldn't go anymore and then sold it. I picked it up, thinking that I can fix most of its problems, but I am new to this engine and model year, and could use some advise (I am familiar with other VWs, mostly the older B4 and A4 TDI's). 

The two most serious problems with the engine are: battery is not being charged, and pretty severe oil leaks. I've read up some on the oil leaks here, and it sounds like a classic PVC and gasket repair. I may have more questions on that in the future, but the first thing that needs attention is the lack of charging to the battery (since it won't go much further than a few miles as is now before the battery starts getting low). 

I've put a charger to the battery, and it charges up and holds a charge well. When I start the engine, the voltage at the battery terminals is low (12-13v) and does not go up if the engine is rev'd up to 3000+RPM. In fact rev'ing the engine seems to make no diff to the battery voltage. Voltage constantly drops as the engine is run, and goes down much faster if the lights are on. The serp belt is old but decent, with no obvious signs of oil on it, and appears to be turning the alternator. I want to check to see if the Alt fuse (or fusible link) is shot, but the wiring on this car is a mystery to me. I am working on getting the Bentley for this model/year, but until then, could someone tell me where the applicable fuses are which might interfere with the alternator getting its juice to the battery? Are they fuse box fuses, fusible links and where are they hidden? 

Anything else I should check before I pull the alt and have it checked at a shop? 

TIA


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## spsherm (Jun 10, 2006)

Just a quick update. I have checked all the fuse box fuses, and no open ones there. Also have noticed that the battery light on the dash does not come on when then key is turned to the on position (before starting). On similar year Jettas and Golfs, the batt light not coming on indicates a problem in the charging circuit, and the alt won't charge the battery. 

Just curious if if is the same for this year Passat too. And if this points to any fuses/links/wiring issue I should check?


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## tryin2vw (Dec 30, 2006)

Sounds like the alternator has died. To do it, the car must be placed in service position. What mileage is on the car? Has the timing belt items been done?


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## spsherm (Jun 10, 2006)

The car needs some TLC, definitely. There are oil leaks from the valve covers and perhaps elsewhere (need to clean it off and see where they start). But I expect it will need the PCV tubes changed out. I need to check with VW to see if there is any record of a TB change. (Car has 108K, and was originally the PO's grandmothers which he inherited. Looks like grandma took VG care of the car, so I am hoping she had the TB done at the dealer at 75K. If not I'll be doing it) But first thing is to get the charging system working again, so I can drive it without an extension cord for the battery charger 

I too have come to the conclusion that it is likely the alternator or its built in regulator. Read thru some of the pulley posts and checked mine. Seems this Alt has a solid pulley. Have not pulled it , but there is no play in the pulley, and no end cap. And I can feel a hex nut on the pulley (would be a big torx if it was the clutched one, I think).

I've checked the big line from the alt to the battery terminal. Basically near zero resistance. So I think it is the Alt itself or its regulator. (BTW, is this car supposed to have the small fused link box over the battery for things like the Alt wire? This car just has the alt wire going directly to the + battery terminal) 

Next step I think is to pull the Alt and have it tested. Which raises a question, how the heck does one get the alt out??? I think I could take the leads off the alt, and maybe find the bolts that hold it on, but there does not seem to be enough room to get it out of there once you have it loose. Is there a trick to it (or do you have to pull the front clip and radiator)?

Thoughts here? Is there something else I should check while the alt is still in the car? And how does one remove an alt from a Passat?


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## tryin2vw (Dec 30, 2006)

If you are going to pull the alternator, then it is also a good time to do the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, idler roller, tensioner roller, tensioner, and possibly the cam seals because it is easiest to put the front end into service position to replace the alternator. follow the "PhatCat" write up as it is a good guide.


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## kfzmeister (Apr 16, 2004)

tryin2vw said:


> If you are going to pull the alternator, then it is also a good time to do the timing belt,etc.,...


That's about $300 additional in repairs and a lot of work. That alternator job is a bugger on a V6 by itself. I would simply check the belt condition by pulling a cover off at the top.

I suppose, based upon your theory, he might as well do the whole front suspension and outer axle boots while he's working on the alternator.


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## vdubtech398 (Jul 19, 2007)

kfzmeister said:


> I suppose, based upon your theory, he might as well do the whole front suspension and outer axle boots while he's working on the alternator.



Lol, you do not have to put the car in service position to do a timing belt and water pump job on this engine either...


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

Check the alternator. If the voltage at the battery doesn't increase to about 14.5 volts when the engine is running, it's fried.


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## vdubtech398 (Jul 19, 2007)

O_o said:


> Check the alternator. If the voltage at the battery doesn't increase to about 14.5 volts when the engine is running, it's fried.


 If voltage is suspect. Voltage drop pos and neg battery cables as well.


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## spsherm (Jun 10, 2006)

It was the alt. 

Pulled the alt and had it tested, it came out good?? Took it apart to try and check the internal connections. No solder joints visible on these new alts, but when I was checking the diodes had to press very hard sometimes to get a reading. Think it is the diode bridge. Works sometimes when cold, but has bad connections which open as it warms. 

A new alt solved the problem...


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