# 3.6 V6 Engine Oil?



## Chimera21 (May 10, 2021)

21.5 ACS v6

Is the the "Castrol" recommended by VW? (my oil cap says Castrol on it)

Castrol Edge full synthetic 0-30 "European" (owners manual says 0-30)

Amazon.com: Castrol - 152B99-6PK 06244 Edge A3/B4 0W-30 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil, 1 Quart, 6 Pack : Automotive

I prefer WIX filters

Amazon.com: WIX 57462 Oil Filter (Cartridge Lube Metal Free, Pack of 1) : Automotive


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## Reihenmotor5 (Dec 1, 2006)

VW dropped Castrol, believe they’re Mobil1 now. I personally do Liqui-Moly and Hengst or Mahel filters. 





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0W30 Top Tec 4210 Engine Oil (5 Liter) - Liqui Moly 22158


0W30 Top Tec 4210 Engine Oil (5 Liter) - Liqui Moly 22158



www.fcpeuro.com






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## Chimera21 (May 10, 2021)

Reihenmotor5 said:


> *VW dropped Castrol*, believe they’re Mobil1 now.


..well they didn't change the fill cap to note that yet, at least on the 21.5 3.6

M1 is OK,,,,although I run Castrol in all my motors...

Interesting the owners manual notes "VW recommends *genuine* oil"....I would take that to mean conventional vs synthetic...although 10k mi change interval is, IMHO, to far for conventional dino oil


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## Reihenmotor5 (Dec 1, 2006)

Probably due to a lot of stickers laying around. 

As long as your run the required spec you’re fine. If I recall it’s VW 504 00 spec. Should be synthetic oil, not Dino. The genuine more than likely means either Castrol per time or writing and recycling of the manual language or their VW branded oil, which is to the spec required. I picked up Liqui-Moly since it’s the VW spec and meets a particular MB spec people rave about in a different oil thread. 

I changed my intervals to 7500 miles. 


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## Chimera21 (May 10, 2021)

Owners manual vs internet 411 on oil capacity?

2021.5 V6

so manual says 5.8 qts....but video on internet shows 5.8 is about a qt low

I have found other wrong info in the owners manual as it pertains to the 2021 model

so what is the "actual" fill amount for oil & filter change for those who do their own oil changes?

5.8 qts or 6.xx?

and has anyone done cutouts for drain plug & filter access in the plastic panel?

That is a feature Subaru has on their plastic under body shields...which to me make sense

my assumption is the dealership will forgo replacing the one push pin on the rear of the plastic cover as to remove that you push the pin through and I doubt they replace it along with not fully cleaning the plastic filter cap where any contaminates settle in the very bottom center recessed part


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## Reihenmotor5 (Dec 1, 2006)

I believe VW calls for 5.5 L, which is 5.8 quarts. [mention]KarstGeo [/mention] has good insight on this. 


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## Chimera21 (May 10, 2021)

I know "VW" calls for 5.8 qts for the V6 fill....but there are several mentions including this video link)

2018 Volkswagen Atlas Engine Oil Change - Bing video 

that say closer to 7 qts

Given the right oil is not at every parts store, I would rather have 7 qts "on hand" vs driving around to find one more qt of Castrol 0-30 I already have as a "6 pack"

some posts note that a larger oil pan was introduced at some point (year) on the V6. IDK as there seems to be multiple "conflicting" reports on capacity....and to me the owners manual included with my 2021.5 is categorically wrong on some 411 I have had to look up (i,e. how to program HomeLink on a 21...clue...its not on the overhead console...its on the mirror itself)

Obviously I will find out when I do the 1st oil change...but thought this ? would have been verified in spades on a VW forum....but at this point I will find another qt to have "if" needed


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## Reihenmotor5 (Dec 1, 2006)

Yea and I’ve seen some people check after filling and all looked good and then drove around and followed the manuals direction of I believe letting it sit 10 minutes after driving and found they put in too much. 


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## Chimera21 (May 10, 2021)

unfortunately with conflicting 411, including on this forum, I am not 100% wtf the actual fill is....especially after seeing the video I linked from a mechanic who "appears" to have a clue and he discovered the issue of 5.8 qts not being enough.

I have done hundreds of oil changes but not on the Atlas which is why I was asking if those who have a 21 V6 who have done the change themselves what they discovered.

Its faster & easier for me to do oil changes vs dealership. I do a better job and can also see WTF else may be going on under car (leaks) 

I will discover what the fill actually is after putting in 5.8 qts, starting car and then letting it sit to then check oil level. It may very well be 5.8....but I will buy a 7th qt to have available.

Regarding the single use push pin holder VW apparently could not install one that is designed to be R&R....I have several of those types in my parts bin that are R&R capable

I will also look into cutting access holes for both drain & oil filter so removing the under panel is not necessary in future changes

While I do not anticipate any "internal" engine issues I will send this oil to Blackstone to confirm. 

I build my own motors on my hot rods and understand typical wear characteristics on new motors and what is typically seen on 1st change vs subsequent changes


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## bboshart (Aug 6, 2012)

I changed the oil and filter on my ‘21.5 VR6 after 5,000 miles. I put in a little less than 6 quarts, ran it up to operating temp and then checked it (per what the owners manual says).

It was a little low on the hash marks so I added the remaining 0.2qts and that put it almost at the top of the acceptable range.

Would 5.8 be enough? Maybe but I’d rather be near the top so if it decides to burn some off, it doesn’t put me too low. I definitely didn’t need more than 6 qts.


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## Steve from Halifax (Apr 21, 2021)

Chimera21 said:


> 21.5 ACS v6
> 
> Is the the "Castrol" recommended by VW? (my oil cap says Castrol on it)
> 
> ...


Engine Oil needs to meet the VW spec VW 502 00 or VW 504 00, For a list of oils that meet the 502 spec, go here Approved oils meeting VW 502 00 standard - AudiWorld Forums


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## Chimera21 (May 10, 2021)

Steve from Halifax said:


> Engine Oil needs to meet the VW spec VW 502 00 or VW 504 00, For a list of oils that meet the 502 spec, go here Approved oils meeting VW 502 00 standard - AudiWorld Forums



yes, aware of that. Here is a more updated list of oil for VW


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## mhjett (Oct 16, 2000)

There is some level of misinformation out there regarding proper fill level. Go by the manual and then check against the dipstick to be sure. The variation seems to do with temp which makes me suspect anti-drainback valve. 

Anyway, re the belly pan, I pushed out the pin from the rear plastic rivet and just re-use it without the pin. Holds just fine. You could replace it with a plastic rivet that uses a screw instead of a pin, would avoid the issue of loosing the pin. 

You could cut out the belly pan for access to oil drain bolt and filter housing but that seems rather drastic and defeats, to some extent, the purpose of the belly pan. Once you get used to it, it's not that big of a deal to remove the pan for every oil change -- although it takes just as long as the actual oil change.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Step 1 - figure out which approval you are looking at.

For the 3.6, that's either a VW504 00 or VW502 00. I believe all the newer ones are 504s which will be either a 0 or 5W30 (and 504 is reverse compatible to 502 anyway - it's a more modern lower SAPS approval). VW goofs this by recommending the viscosity along with the approval - the approval is all that matters here. Brand is less important when comparing 2 oils with the same approval.


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## Reihenmotor5 (Dec 1, 2006)

Newer models show 504 00/0w30 on the engine bay sticker. 


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Reihenmotor5 said:


> Newer models show 504 00/0w30 on the engine bay sticker.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Mine is an '18 so shows the 502/504. Any 504 will work.

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## Reihenmotor5 (Dec 1, 2006)

Yea at some point the 19s showed the same and then it just went to 504 00/0w30. Mine was part of that switch. I ran 504 00 5w30 this past summer since 0w30 wasn’t in stock at the time. Plus seeing stories of dealerships pouring in whatever they felt wasn’t comforting to see. 


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Reihenmotor5 said:


> Yea at some point the 19s showed the same and then it just went to 504 00/0w30. Mine was part of that switch. I ran 504 00 5w30 this past summer since 0w30 wasn’t in stock at the time. Plus seeing stories of dealerships pouring in whatever they felt wasn’t comforting to see.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The difference in the 0 and 5 winter ratings is trival overall, the 100 C viscosities should be about the same for both.


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## Chimera21 (May 10, 2021)

Did the oil change. 5.8 qts on dip stick is at bottom (read not yet reaching) of hash lines on dip stick. 6 qts about 1/4 up on hash marks. This reading was after driving car and letting it sit for a few hrs on flat surface

I have a 7qt drain pan that was filled to the brim (read very top) with the "factory" fill (including draining the oil filter via removing the small drain plug on it)....it would appear, according to "my" dipstick" that 6.5ish qts would bring the fill up to, or closer to, the top of the hash marks on dipstick (part that is in the "bend" part of dipstick)

Before changing oil my dipstick showed oil level mid hash marks (3600mi) so assuming I did not "use" any oil the factory fill was at 1/2 way mark on the hash mark part of dipstick)

Soooo, while every car I have had and the hundreds of oil changes I have done the "full" mark was reached by adding whatever amounts of qts. the car manual calls for (typically 5).....not this "somewhere" on the hash marks....and in this case certainly 5.8qts does not get you there according to markings on "my" dipstick

It also mirrors what the mechanic in video I link to discovered as he says about 7 qts bring it to the "top" of the hash marks

I will chalk this "mid hash mark" reading to be good and consider "thermal expansion" (although we are talking about a very minimal amount for 6 qts of volume) as the reason why oil readings under VW specs will have a mid level on hash mark on dipstick as "full" (assuming this is correct)...vs the more common "full" or "add" marks on any other car dipstick where a cold new oil fill lands on the "full" mark of those dipsticks.


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## bboshart (Aug 6, 2012)

Chimera21 said:


> Did the oil change. 5.8 qts on dip stick is at bottom (read not yet reaching) of hash lines on dip stick. 6 qts about 1/4 up on hash marks. *This reading was after driving car and letting it sit for a few hrs on flat surface*


My owners manual says to get it up to operating temp, turn it off and wait a few minutes and then check the level.

I'm not saying waiting a few hours like you did would have it read significantly different than taking the reading when it’s at operating temp, but that could be a reason why, for me, 6 quarts put it nearer the top of the dipstick.


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## Reihenmotor5 (Dec 1, 2006)

I believe the manual states to wait 10 minutes. 


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## Chimera21 (May 10, 2021)

Very aware any engine, after use, will take some time (5-10 min) for all oil to "drain back" to pan. After 45 min of driving around, park for 1 hr...oil level, after 6 qts, still reads "about" 1/2 way up the hash mark. Same checking it after sitting over night.

Not sure why some, at least my, V6 are not at the top of hash mark with 5.8qts let alone 6. Granted the oil level where it is now is fine for operational use but at 5.8 qts its barely touching the hash marks on dipstick so any oil consumption would be a concern and require immediate add of oil.

The fact I drained out about 7qts from the "factory" fill which on dip stick was 2/3 up on has mark (not to top)...to me suggests it needs more that 6 qts

"Maybe" there is variance in dip stick length????

At this point it is what it is and I know how much oil gets it to "almost" 1/2 way on hash marks. 6.5 qts would appear to get it to "top" of hash marks on dipstick

Any "thermal expansion" on 6 qts of oil, even at 300 degrees F, would be marginal (maybe a 0z)

FWIW oil sticker does say 0-30 504. The 504 rating is for the 10k oil service life. I won't be letting the oil run that long. 7k mi max but likely do every 5k mi in which case 502 would be fine, even to 7k mi


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## Reihenmotor5 (Dec 1, 2006)

Yea I changed my intervals to 7500 and updating the coding to have the vehicle notify me when getting close to the time to change. 


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## Chimera21 (May 10, 2021)

UPDATE:

After initially putting in 5.8 qts with the oil level barely touching (read not yet touching) the bottom of the "hash" marks and then adding the remaining of the 6th qt which brought the level about 1/4 the way up the hash mark....I found adding 6.25 qts in total brings it to the top of the "hash" mark which is about 1/8" below the high mark of "C" noted in manual. 

Interesting the manual, pg 252, says to add small amounts to get this level, especially if vehicle is in heavy duty use


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## kocyk123 (Mar 23, 2021)

Chimera21 said:


> UPDATE:
> 
> After initially putting in 5.8 qts with the oil level barely touching (read not yet touching) the bottom of the "hash" marks and then adding the remaining of the 6th qt which brought the level about 1/4 the way up the hash mark....I found adding 6.25 qts in total brings it to the top of the "hash" mark which is about 1/8" below the high mark of "C" noted in manual.
> 
> Interesting the manual, pg 252, says to add small amounts to get this level, especially if vehicle is in heavy duty use


I have to disagree with you on putting more oil than the manual states. I also almost followed the instructions from the YT video where the guy said to put more. Below are my observations:

I put 5.8 qts in on my first oil change and could see the oil level barely touching the dip stick (followed the instructions of starting the engine and then waiting about 10 mins). I was like, yes, the guy from the video was right. I added more (approx 0.3qt) and it showed a little bit more but still not in the middle. I check it the next day in the morning and it was above max.
during my second oil change, I put 5.8qt, let the engine run for a minute, checked the dipstick and it showed barely anything. Took it for a ride and made sure that the oil temp went above 200F. Parked it in the garage, waited for more than an hour, checked the dipstick and it showed between middle and full (perfect).
What I learned here: Follow the manual regarding the proper qt but don't necessarily follow the instructions on how to properly check your oil using a dipstick. You have to wait much longer than just 10 minutes to get the proper reading on the dipstick and I don't know why but that is just how it is for this car. It wasn't a case in my previous cars but all engines are built differently. 

my $0.02 before you guys will start throwing more oil than needed and cause some issues.


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## Chimera21 (May 10, 2021)

kocyk123 said:


> I have to disagree with you on putting more oil than the manual states.
> 
> my $0.02 before you guys will start throwing more oil than needed and cause some issues.


Well you are entitled to your opinion....I am no rookie relative to oil changes. Fully aware oil needs to "settle" after pouring in to show correct level on dip stick. Manual actually says "wait 1 minute" (pg 254, step 11)......I let the car sit on flat ground overnight several times to check in addition to letting it sit for a few minutes. Oil level is exactly the same each time and the fact is it was simply not up to what the manual and "hash mark" on dip stick show. It was just within the "C" range, lowest part though, of the dipstick

I know the manual "should be right", but in this case it is not in terms of a fixed definitive "full" mark...its a "range". It has fairly detailed, and illustrations, of 3 different types of dipsticks showing a "range" of "full" (albeit "full" is "interpretive" as it it within about a 1" "range" on the dipstick...to the extent there is a 17 step "check" process, pg 254

pg 254, step 7, section "C" level (this is the entire "recessed aka bent" section of my dipstick) is acceptable "full" level. The "hash marks" in this section are more towards the top of this portion of dipstick with about 1/8" more above hash mark before the upper bend (see pg 252, fig 178)

The "C" level "range" (read what is accepted as "full"), on the above referenced step (7) states "The engine oil is at the correct level. *Engine oil can be added to the upper level of this area*, for example if there is heavy engine load. Continue with step 8 or step 16

So, IMHO, "full" by VW's manual is a "range" on the dipstick, not a fixed mark unlike any other car I have changed oil on (typically 5 qts with filter). 5.8 qts on "my" dipstick does not even reach the hash marks let alone "midway" on the hash marks. I checked the factory fill when I got the car. It was "middle" of hash marks. The drained oil filled, to the brim, a 7 qt catch pan even before removing filter which had oil in it (I verified capacity using water to confirm the pan holds "almost" 7 qts). To me the drained factory fill, assuming no oil was burned the first 3500 miles) supports there was more than 5.8 qts

Will 5.8qts be enough, yes but if your motor uses oil it will require adding vs having oil level mid range on the dipstick initially sooner. Even with 6.25 qts my oil level is still below "C" range shown on pg 252, fig 178. YMMV

Another thought on what "may" contribute to several posts, like this one, about oil level/capacity specifically to the V6. The oil filter used. "Maybe" there are slight variations of size (width) between brands with ones with slightly less width allowing for more "fluid" (oil). I use WIX filters vs VW. This is just speculation as I have not measured various brands of filters.

In any event this particular car/engine is different in terms of oil fill "full" vs any other car I have. I always do my own oil changes but this VW is just my DD and came with 3 x 10k mi service (30k mi) as part of the purchase so I will have dealership do changes moving forward but at 7500mi intervals. I just did this early first change as I feel 10k mi on a new motor is "pushing it". I have a few hobby (collector) cars I have installed rebuilt or new engines in and always do early (500, 1500, 3k mi) oil changes on those motors albeit I do 1/4 mi race those cars so that just goes with the territory on these use conditions. Using 504 grade oil in the VW is spec for 10k mi use...I am just not buying the acid build up in oils regardless of the "rated" mileage ability of the 504 grade. I have seen to many engine bearing wear in my life to buy into "extended service range" of these newer cars. Frankly that math is based on most people not having their cars over 100k mi and a sales incentive on longer service interval vs what is really "best" for long term (200k+ mi) engine life. I keep cars 10-15 years

So do as you feel best for your car, this is what I did on mine, 2021.5 ACS V6. Cheers


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## kocyk123 (Mar 23, 2021)

Chimera21 said:


> Well you are entitled to your opinion....I am no rookie relative to oil changes. Fully aware oil needs to "settle" after pouring in to show correct level on dip stick. Manual actually says "wait 1 minute" (pg 254, step 11)......I let the car sit on flat ground overnight several times to check in addition to letting it sit for a few minutes. Oil level is exactly the same each time and the fact is it was simply not up to what the manual and "hash mark" on dip stick show. It was just within the "C" range, lowest part though, of the dipstick
> 
> I know the manual "should be right", but in this case it is not in terms of a fixed definitive "full" mark...its a "range". It has fairly detailed, and illustrations, of 3 different types of dipsticks showing a "range" of "full" (albeit "full" is "interpretive" as it it within about a 1" "range" on the dipstick...to the extent there is a 17 step "check" process, pg 254
> 
> ...


Didn't mean to offend you or doubt your experience. I was trying to be as respectful as possible but wanted to share my observations and what worked for me. I might've not used the proper working so I am sorry if my post sounded too harsh. I use OEM filter and 5.8qt is just right for my motor and it doesn't get below medium between the 5k oil changes. Maybe it has to do with the oil filter, maybe it doesn't.

I am just curious about the different observations/experiences and why the difference. 

(I never rebuilt or replaced and engine in the car (yet) so I am rookie when it comes to this)


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## Chimera21 (May 10, 2021)

kocyk123 said:


> . Maybe it has to do with the oil filter, maybe it doesn't.
> 
> I am just curious about the different observations/experiences and why the difference./QUOTE]
> 
> ...


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## ToadStool (May 2, 2021)

Slightly off topic and I don't know if it was worth doing or worth sharing. Bought my new 2021.5 Atlas Cross Sport last April. With about 1500 miles on it, I had the oil changed just prior to going on a whirlwind 1600 mile road trip. I think VW says first oil change at about 10k miles. 

Anyway, my thought process was every engine goes through a break-in period for the first 1000 miles or so. Hence, any potential for metal shavings, etc would likely occur during this inital break-in period so I thought my best chance to extend the life of the Vr6 would be to change the first oil early rather than later.

I shared this thinking with somebody at VW service dept who said, that may have been true years ago but engines today are so refined now, there's likely to be no metal shavings during the break-in period these days. I had it done anyway.

I'd be interested in others' thoughts?


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## mtbsteve (Dec 6, 2011)

ToadStool said:


> Slightly off topic and I don't know if it was worth doing or worth sharing. Bought my new 2021.5 Atlas Cross Sport last April. With about 1500 miles on it, I had the oil changed just prior to going on a whirlwind 1600 mile road trip. I think VW says first oil change at about 10k miles.
> 
> Anyway, my thought process was every engine goes through a break-in period for the first 1000 miles or so. Hence, any potential for metal shavings, etc would likely occur during this inital break-in period so I thought my best chance to extend the life of the Vr6 would be to change the first oil early rather than later.
> 
> ...


I'll step onto this land mine. I will change it when the car reaches within the bounds that are listed in the manual, even for the first change. If it were a necessity or had any big impact, a break in change would be required and you know that the dealers would love to get some extra $ for an extra visit so early in the cars life when typically nothing else is going wrong. 
Even as an engineer, not in the automotive field but certainly work with a lot of car guys and have been around mundane and performance cars over the years, no one (except a few in the various forums) in the past decade or two has said anything about changing vs not changing so early in modern cars due to shavings, particles, etc. Certain new engines still require it and older engines certainly did too but just like changing every 3k miles, it is a habit that people need to learn to drop and some never will. Even the talk about a tenth of a qt of oil being discussed this deeply is odd, given the lack of skill the typical person has in filling and reading the dip stick correctly, in the dealership, other shop or at home, when was the last time anyone heard of being a tenth high or low having any real world implications... that's right, zero. Make sure you drain as much as possible, refill and move on to more important things.


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## Chimera21 (May 10, 2021)

ToadStool said:


> Slightly off topic and I don't know if it was worth doing or worth sharing. Bought my new 2021.5 Atlas Cross Sport last April. With about 1500 miles on it, I had the oil changed just prior to going on a whirlwind 1600 mile road trip. I think VW says first oil change at about 10k miles.
> 
> Anyway, my thought process was every engine goes through a break-in period for the first 1000 miles or so. Hence, any potential for metal shavings, etc would likely occur during this inital break-in period so I thought my best chance to extend the life of the Vr6 would be to change the first oil early rather than later.
> 
> ...


re: 21.5 ACS V6

Your "thought process", relative to "engine break-in" is correct. Pg 112 in manual notes that higher friction occurs during the "break-in" process (just like any other new engine) which is the first 0-600 mi and 600-1k mi. Given "you", if I understand your post correctly, said you bought the car with 1500 mi on it "you" did not know if recommended break-in procedure was done. IMHO deciding to change the oil then, prior to 1st "scheduled" service of 10k mi, was prudent. The manual further states that oil consumption can occur during break-in period and up to 1 qt use per 1200 mi during the first 3100 mi "...on new vehicles" (pg 253) which IMHO is significant oil use for any engine let alone a new one.

While I doubt any "metal shavings" would be present in any new engine that was not abused (read engine break-in was followed vs just betting the crap out of the motor)...if you wanted to know you can send oil sample to Blackstone Lab for about $25 and get a full analysis on what is in it including how the specific oil is holding up in terms of its type. This kind of documentation can be very helpful should there be a need for a warranty claim specific to engine failure. I always do this on new engines I put in my hobby cars and did send my oil from Atlas in just to know but again I do not expect to get any negative findings for the Atlas

relative to how much oil to put in vs the 5.8 qts noted as a "full" oil change....pg 253 states "for high engine loads, for example when driving long distances on highways in summer or when driving through high mountains, the engine oil level should be in the *UPPER* section of the permitted area pg 253". Note on that pg area "C" (fig 178) is what is being referred to on dipstick and that area will involve adding more than 5.8 qts to reach that level (approx. 6.2 qts)

The 504 spec oil has a service life rating of 10k mi which is why VW specs it for the 10k service interval. Changing it sooner is never a bad idea especially if the vehicle sees "high engine loads" as noted or towing.....or a new to you car where you don't know how it was used


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## mhjett (Oct 16, 2000)

I did a Blackstone analysis when I changed the oil for the first time at 6500 miles. There were some wear metals, along with assembly lubes etc., in the oil. But I think it's fair to say that generally there will be no "metal shavings" in any properly built modern engine. 

Same was true for our 2022 Odyssey when I did the first oil change and a Blackstone analysis at 700 miles. 

There will be "stuff" there in the first oil that won't be there later. It likely helps to do the first change early and it certainly doesn't hurt.


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## bboshart (Aug 6, 2012)

Not that it's a direct comparison and you will never know without doing a oil analysis of your particular engine, but I had them done on my Golf R at every oil change. 4k, 10k, 15k, etc. This was a brand new car and I followed break-in.

PPM for iron were 50 at the first change and 15 @ 30k.
Copper went from 17 to 2.
Tin went from 8 to 0.

Those were the 3 that were well above average on the first analysis and subsequently dropped off after the first change. Were they harmful? Probably not. But there are wear metals in brand new engines so I did an early oil change in my new Atlas to give me piece of mind.


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## Chimera21 (May 10, 2021)

yes it is typical for oil analysis to reveal minimal metal content in oil along with assembly lube on any new engine. Normal. A few follow-up analysis at normal oil change intervals would typically show a decline in these metals as mileage increases. For me I do not continue oil analysis on any DD car. The motors I have in cars I race, same thing....until I hear a "noise" or actually start to see stuff in oil or filter. 

For any used car or "new" car that does have mileage on it (dealer cars) where I would not know the use history...I get Blackstone results. I worked for a new car dealer when I was young. The dealer cars were beat on hard....


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## Blind1 (Jun 30, 2021)

Just as an aside - these problems are not limited to the v6.

The manual calls for far less than 6qts in the 2.0.

I can confirm that hot/cold/wait 10 minutes, it doesn’t matter and that the 2.0 takes 6qts. That puts it just below the top hash mark on the dip stick.

For the vr6 I’d put in 5.8 and then add till you get to a comfortable level.


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## ToadStool (May 2, 2021)

Thanks for the feedback everybody. I purchased my Cross Sport new and just thought changing the oil after the first 1500 miles (1000 mi woulda' been better) just might be prudent enough to extend engine life. Makes sense to me anytime there's metal to metal friction potentials - especially at high rates of speed like 3k - 5k rpms. 

I just don't have the discipline to wait 200,000 miles to see if it was truly worth it.


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## KarstGeo (Jan 19, 2018)

Here are my Atlas oil changes since nearly new and you can see the wear metals (Fe/Al/Cu) have all dropped off significantly. I didn't analyze the first change which was at ~7K and you would expect to see higher metals numbers in that one. Silicon has also dropped off since the first change - the high initial number is related to the sealers used in the engine when built and can also be related to poor air filtration (dust/dirt) but mine are low at this point - I should note I use a K&N drop-in filter. I have my ~35K sample in for analysis now awaiting results and I expect the metals will drop off a bit more.

My opinion is that there is no reason for an early "get the metal bits out" change anymore (isn't that what the oil filter is for?) but if that makes feel better, it's not hurting anything/by all means. Just like folks that will state that they have always done this and their vehicles have lasted XYZ miles, I can say the same for never doing it - I've never done early changes and have had many of vehicles last 10+ years/v. high miles. The other thought I always have is that if metals are a concern, most of that is likely generated in first few hours of operation so why wait 500 or 1000...do it after the first few days etc. Just some thoughts.


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## Chimera21 (May 10, 2021)

Comments from Blackstone on my 3600mi analysis. All normal.....but what is noted as normal is the level of metal in oil for a new engine...which is what I assumed and why I chose to change oil on new motors before engaging in the "normal" duration. For me that will be 7500 mi vs 10k mi

quote from report:

_This initial sample from your Atlas Sport shows elevated levels of wear metal and silicon, but not to worry - these are completely normal readings for factory oil. The parts had to wear in and that process left some extra metal behind, while silicon is inflated due to sealers and lubes used to put the engine together. This material should wash out over the next several oil changes. Eventually we'll look for metals to stabilize around average levels - averages show the usual mature 3.6L VR6 wear profile after ~6,300 miles oil use. 1.5% fuel is no big deal either. So far, so good!_


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