# How to take of cam timing adjuster on 06 2.0t fsi?



## MK44 (Aug 21, 2010)

I do have the #10 polydrive socket. I just do not know which way the adjuster comes off on the exhaust side. This is on the side of the chain not the belt.


Thanks!!


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## BlueDevil504 (Jan 19, 2012)

Lefty Lucy, Righty Tighty.

Out of the Bentley service manual. 
*Camshaft adjuster mounting bolt*
*Tighten to 20Nm (15 ft-lb) plus an additional 45 degree (1/8 turn)
*Use retainer 3036 for loosening and tightening (3036 is the tool part#)

https://vw.snapon.com/Home.aspx I use this website when searching for specialty tools. I have also purchased specialty tools from this site. You need to register on the site in order to purchase anything. Registering is free.


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## MK44 (Aug 21, 2010)

Only 15 ft-lb? Is that for the chain side? It just does not seem like much torque


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## low_passat (Sep 11, 2010)

BlueDevil504 said:


> Lefty Lucy, Righty Tighty.
> 
> Out of the Bentley service manual.
> *Camshaft adjuster mounting bolt*
> ...





MK44 said:


> Only 15 ft-lb? Is that for the chain side? It just does not seem like much torque


That's correct. Here's the instructions

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/golf-mk6/power_unit/4-cyl._direct_injection_engine_(2.0_l_4v_turbocharger_toothed_belt_drive)/engine_cylinder_head_valve_gear/valve_gear/removing_and_installing_camshaft_adjuster/


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## MK44 (Aug 21, 2010)

That manual does help but is this bolt still right handed thread? I just don't wanna go the wrong way with it


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## MK44 (Aug 21, 2010)

Thanks guys for both your help so far!


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## MK44 (Aug 21, 2010)

?


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## jbyronr (Jul 27, 2001)

It's regular thread (lefty loosey). And it is on TIGHT.
Be careful when breaking it loose, I've hit multiple body parts when not braced correctly.

The 20nm + 45 degrees for installation doesn't seem like much until you try to get the 45 degrees.
Use a new bolt, and do NOT use a thread locking fluid, or you'll have to replace the camshaft if you ever need to remove that bolt again.


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## MK44 (Aug 21, 2010)

Okay thanks buddy that sounds like useful information. I will try this tomorrow.


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## MK44 (Aug 21, 2010)

So I got the cam adjuster off and replaced the chain and tensioner, I threw it all back together, started it and it idles fine. However when driving it I have no power till 4500 rpm? Could it be that I am off a tooth?? oh and I dont have any CEL yet. (drove about 10 miles)


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## ordpetegti (May 20, 2004)

pull the cover off and make sure that all the marks line up when the engine is at top dead center. I know when I did the timing belt and the timing chain and adjuster, I had to take the pulley and chain on and off a few times to get it lined up correctly. Did you have the camshaft locked down with the locking tool? If not, there is a distinct possibility that you may have advanced the pulley one tooth, resulting in the lack of low end power. Double check it and get back to us. 

Pete


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## MK44 (Aug 21, 2010)

We did use the cam lock tool and after the chain was on I turned over the timing belt side by hand and everything seemed to rotate evenly and smooth.


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## ordpetegti (May 20, 2004)

MK44 said:


> We did use the cam lock tool and after the chain was on I turned over the timing belt side by hand and everything seemed to rotate evenly and smooth.


Did the timing marks on the chain side line up? Make sure that all the electrical connectors you took apart made it back together.


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## majic (Mar 10, 2005)

Yeah, I had this problem where I used the cam locking tool and it was able to fit in even though the intake cam was off one tooth.

Other people report loss of power if off by one tooth. Also, in researching the timing issue , I found that our motors have to be 3 or 4 teeth off before the valves impact the pistons. So turning over by hand may not reveal interference if you're only one tooth off.


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## ordpetegti (May 20, 2004)

MK44-
Just read your other thread for the car shutting off at hwy speeds and you realizing it was the cam chain being broken. This sheds a little more insight into your situation.

Did you do a compression check? rule this out first. 

I think your exhaust cam timing is waaaaay off, maybe 180 degrees off. I think you need to start from square one and check the timing of the rubber timing belt. Make sure that all the timing marks align correctly, and then, without moving anything, go to the drivers side cover for the cam chain and check the timing marks on the cam chain for the exhaust cam. I think that if were lucky enough to not bend any valves, then the timing of the exhaust cam is off. 

Let us know what happens. 


Pete


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

Wouldn't it throw a code if the timing was off?

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk


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## majic (Mar 10, 2005)

Computer doesn't know if it's off one tooth. Usually symptoms involve loss of power and no boost because the intake or exhaust valves are opening too soon


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## MK44 (Aug 21, 2010)

Well I did a compression test and all the cylinders tested equally. I advanced the timing chain one tooth to line up the timing mark in the timing belt side. We threw it back together and the car is working great I have all my power back and no CEL's. I want to thank everyone for all your help I could not have done this job without your knowledge.

Thanks again,

Tyler


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## ordpetegti (May 20, 2004)

MK44 said:


> Well I did a compression test and all the cylinders tested equally. I advanced the timing chain one tooth to line up the timing mark in the timing belt side. We threw it back together and the car is working great I have all my power back and no CEL's. I want to thank everyone for all your help I could not have done this job without your knowledge.
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Tyler


Awesome! Glad to hear it worked for you. :beer:


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