# so it starts: PPT 3071 "build"



## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

so, after a long awaited big turbo dream of mine, I finally got started. 
did MAD research, got a little bit of money, and called Arnold at Pag Parts. very good decision. 

the wait from order to delivery turned out to a couple weeks, which worked out well because it gave me time to gather my parts. 
---------------------------------------------
somebody asked me for a list of things I need for this build. This might help others:

I can try, haha. had to buy a lot of things along the way. 

ppt v banded 3071 kit:
Gt3071r turbo
38mm tial mvs w/ open dump
ppt exhaust manifold
ppt custom intercooler w/ garret 550 hp core
tial Q bov
3" downpipe
Seimens 630cc injectors
Walbro 255 inline fuel pump
AEM dry flow filter
ppt 3" turbo inlet pipe
Audi tt intake manifold
Ic Piping by Arnold at pagparts
2.5" 42dd cat back 

IE rods: rifle drilled, arp rod bolts
oem main bearings
oem piston rings
oem head bolts 
timing belt/tensioner
water pump w metal impeller
new head gasket, valve cover gasket, intake/exhaust manifold gasket

Sachs vr6 clutch kit w/single mass g60 flywheel
Maestro 7 tuning suite

fluids, tools, clamps, hoses, etc. etc. 
------------------------------------------------

and so I started shopping:
ariving first was gasket set ( head, valve cover, intake, coil pack), piston rings, and head bolts.









next up was timing kit, water pump w/ metal impeller and some g12.









then came IE rods w/ rifle drilling and oem bearings.









My collection started building and my turbo kit was a week out from shipping, so yesterday I started work:

















with the core support removed, I started unplugging/labeling the harness, and disconnecting anything holding the motor into the frame. 









downpipe was a bitch to unbolt, haha









gettin ready to come out.









"SHE'S AIRBORNE!"

























some love for the 1.8t. first motor I've pulled, so I was pretty excited. 









then, I started stripping/prepping it for things to come 


























Motor has not even 74k on it. Valve cover off, cams look great, timing chain looks great:









currently sourcing a poly drive head bolt tool, so progress has come to a halt. problem should be solved in the next couple days. 
Clutch comes today, And fingers crossed my kit ships today, if not, it definitely will tomorrow.

Edit:
thank you, brush research:









thanks for viewing! comments welcome.


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

So, i made a shi-ton of phone calls, finally got pointed in the right direction to a little place called "tool town," that had my polydrive tool. FOR $12! i felt like i stole something because i saw it going for $35 around the internet.









with this awesome find, i was able to press on and remove all ten head bolts in the proper sequence.
TDC:








head removed:








lots of carbon buildup. not sure what to attribute that to, but i'm not going to worry too much about it, clean it up, and press on.









flipped the motor over, and began removing all four pistons.
















pistons out: gotta clean up all the oil from the cylinder walls, of course.

















crank is in great shape, and oil pan was spotless.

































when i get a second wind, i'll start separating oem rods from pistons, attach the IE ones, clean up carbon buildup from on top and between piston rings and install the new ones to spec.

btw, clutch kit came in yesterday:








-SACHS VR6 Clutch Disc
-SACHS VR6 Pressure Plate
-SACHS OEM Throw-Out Bearing
-SACHS Single-Mass 14 pound "G60" Flywheel

that's all for now, still waiting to hear from arnold about my kit shipping! ICAN'TWAIT!


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

happy belated 4th everyone. I want to thank all my fellow military members for serving, and all the vets for giving their lives, sacrifices, and service for our freedom. 

As a small update, I've cleaned up the ins-and-outs of my pistons, assembled the rods, and cleaned up the deck of my block. 








I chose not to use that 3m pad, as it was too abrasive. Ended up using a really fine 3m pad that is used for smoothing surfaces between coats of paint. something similar to the surface of a sponge. 








all cleaned up and assembled. 








block looks good, still need to show my head and valves some love. 









next up is deglazing the cylinder walls, piston ring gapping/install, and installing the pistons and bearings back into the motor. hopefully I'll have this accomplished in the next couple days. 

Edit: 
just finished (1&2)








(3&4
















surprising myself every day at how fast I'm learning and how fast progress is being made. still trying to make sure I hit every mark and don't miss a step! BT is becoming a reality, hahaha. 

yesterday got all my piston rings gapped, clocked, and installed. rods/bearing went in smoothly, just need to torque things down to spec, and I can start buttoning things up. oil pan, head gasket/head goes on next. 









thanks for watching!


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

IT'S HEEEEEEEREEEEE!








Christmas on my doorstep.
always a good sign:








I was too excited to take pictures so this is the aftermath, haha
















tial q bov








external wastegate, also by tial








PPT exhaust manifold, welds look awesome
















TIP, open dump from wastegate, table salt, everything v-banded








walbro inline fuel pump, siemens 630cc injectors








and finally! gt3071r
















can't wait to get all these goodies in. 

still waiting on maestro, and audi tt manifold. Maestro shipped separately from eurodyne, so that should be here this week. I'm going to expedite the shipping on my manifold so I can get this bad boy buttoned up and ready to boost!


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

Cool build...good choice of company and hardware! You'll like the 3017r


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

I cannot wait! tryin' to do it right the first time, learned a lot from other builds.


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## mylesp (Jul 7, 2005)

Awesome ! Will be watching


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

:beer:opcorn:


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Subscribed:beer:


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## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

nice build you got going.. good luck with it


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## Three3Se7en (Jul 2, 2007)

Your shirt looks pretty clean. :laugh:
opcorn:


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

Three3Se7en said:


> Your shirt looks pretty clean. :laugh:
> opcorn:


i can't count how many white v-necks i've trashed working on the car. luckily they come in 5 packs! hahaha


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Three3Se7en said:


> Your shirt looks pretty clean. :laugh:
> opcorn:


:laugh:


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

bump for small update.

sn: my left thumb hurts from putting those cir-clips back into the pistons. barely got the fourth one in, haha.


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## sledge0001 (Oct 7, 2007)

Nice!!!! :beer:


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

That is normal carbon buildup for a VW. The PCV systems are super dirty. That leads to coke on the piston crowns valves and etc.


Looking good!


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## Glasser (Jul 24, 2010)

Good work man! Especially for your first time, I've pulled motors but never broke one down to the internals but it looks like fun


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## adgoff21 (Sep 19, 2004)

:thumbup:

Sent from my DROID2


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

bump, significant update.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

dream build


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

jstnGTI said:


> IT'S HEEEEEEEREEEEE!


:beer:


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## Three3Se7en (Jul 2, 2007)

I love the Tial Q BOV. No fluttering there. Nice parts too. VBand everything. :thumbup:


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## 87vr6 (Jan 17, 2002)

Sweet man, for the record, you can use a 8mm (i believe) allen key to REMOVE the poly drive bolts, but not reinstall them. For future reference for other people really, seeing as you have the tool now


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

ran outta reserve pages. thanks everyone for the positive feedback! 

so today, i did MAD work. I did all I could before the excitement made me tired enough to stop. 
was working really hard, so less pictures were taken. 
I put the arp rod cap bolts through two torque cycles before their final resting position. checked the sides with my feeler gauges for clearance and all went well.

so I started buttoning things up.

oil pump, baffle, and oil pan back on, fresh head gasket:








got the water pump on, timing belt tensioner, and timing belt. this part was kind of stressful for me because sh!t kept moving when I tried to put the belt on the tensioner. luckily i got it first try and everything was at TDC, so I was able to press on. 
















then I started to have fun








v-bands made my life super easy








and before calling it a night I got all the lines ran from the block to the turbo. 

















just have a lot of questions about the external wastegate. never worked with these before so I'm not exactly sure what to do with all these springs it came with. which one do I run? do I have to take it apart and swap the one already in there? and I noticed ports for h2o and air (I think it said), what do I do with those? also do i put vaccuum to the top? wastegate noob over here... I know. 


I'm going to try to overnight my tt manifold, get that all situated. still got some odds and ends I need to pick up before I can completely finish putting everything together. I'd say I'm a week out from turning the key! YES!


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## Cryser (Sep 9, 2009)

Your wastegate set up is going to be based on how your planning to be boost control.

Are you using N75, EBC, MBC? if EBC which EBC?


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## '04JettaGli (Jun 22, 2012)

Looks awesome man, looks like a blast too. You stationed in WA? Can't wait to see the rest fall into place!


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

87vr6 said:


> Sweet man, for the record, you can use a 8mm (i believe) allen key to REMOVE the poly drive bolts, but not reinstall them. For future reference for other people really, seeing as you have the tool now


:thumbup:


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## a4e3y5 (Jan 21, 2009)

jstnGTI said:


> just have a lot of questions about the external wastegate. never worked with these before so I'm not exactly sure what to do with all these springs it came with. which one do I run? _*Most of the time they come with the 14.5 psi spring, but you may want to double ck with Arnold. If you want to run a higher one, go to the tial page and you'll find the code for the colors*_ do I have to take it apart and swap the one already in there?*only if you want to run a stiffer spring* and I noticed ports for h2o and air (I think it said), what do I do with those? also do i put vaccuum to the top? wastegate noob over here... I know. *It has two ports...top and bottom. If you run a manual boost controller u will use the bottom one. If you run an electronic boost controller u will use the top one.*
> 
> 
> I'm going to try to overnight my tt manifold, get that all situated. still got some odds and ends I need to pick up before I can completely finish putting everything together. I'd say I'm a week out from turning the key! YES!


On a side note...I remember when doing my build.....good times :thumbup:!


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

so, a simple reference to the instructions supplied with the wastegate informs me I just run a vacuum line from the IM -> mbc and then mbc-> WG. thought it was more complicated than that. I still haven't chosen an mbc to go with. suggestions? 










please tell me if I misenterprated the drawing.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

I have a simple aluminum ball and spring MBC if u want it PM me


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## a4e3y5 (Jan 21, 2009)

Any ball n spring will do....blox, turbosmart, hallman etc. If you want to go fancier you can go dual stage mbc. It gives the option to run lo boost n with the touch of a button hi boost. And yes, mani to mbc to wastegate.

Sent from te lo mande desde mi cel!


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

been working working working so all I have left is the parts I don't have. Trying to get back on the road and enjoy this bad boy. 

in no particular order:








got my TIP mocked up and mounted. 








cleaned up my valve cover after that picture was taken. 








got a fram (lol) oil filter today and filled it with ND30, also poured about two quarts over the cams and chain before I torqued down my valve cover. 

should I put more? or prime my pump before start up and THEN add more? is two enough before I start priming? 

I started bolting on my accessories; PS pump, alternator, A/C, accessory belt. 

I chise to omit this brace of the oem IM because I'm going to be using a TT manifold. 








so instead of bottoming out the bolt, I chiseled this washer/spacer/whatever off and everything was good 








also started setting up my WG (thanks guys). 








plugged all side vacuum ports except the one I'm using and the one above the barb there and I'm venting to atmosphere on the top. Re-used some vacuum line heat shield material from the old turbo. 








called it a night.


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## mk4boost (Jul 31, 2010)

:thumbup::thumbup: doing werk man... everything is coming along great :beer:


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## a4e3y5 (Jan 21, 2009)

Coming along nicely...kudos to you! Did the same IC kit using the TT mani n it works nicely. Looking forward to dyno numbers in the near future. In the meantime, keep enjoying the build!


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Looking good! See if you can run the oil feed line a little bit further away from the exhaust mani :thumbup:


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## TheColbster (Jan 5, 2012)

interesting, i cant wait to start my BT build in who knows how long.
subscribed:thumbup::thumbup:


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

jstnGTI said:


> IT'S HEEEEEEEREEEEE!
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Nice nips. Ever been milked?


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Holy Hipster glasses Batman!  :laugh:


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

18T_BT said:


> Looking good! See if you can run the oil feed line a little bit further away from the exhaust mani :thumbup:


goooooooood call.


















I think i've done all I can before my remaining parts come in. started shaving the pass side of my bay to kill time.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

jstnGTI said:


>


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

let's keep it on topic, men. :wave:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

l88m22vette said:


>


^^^ H8r  lol


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

Big_Tom said:


> ^^^ H8r  lol



hahaaa. from my t-shirt to my glasses.


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## VWBugman00 (Mar 17, 2009)

Ah, good ole BCG's (birth control glasses). Gotta love military issue!


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

VWBugman00 said:


> Ah, good ole BCG's (birth control glasses). Gotta love military issue!


:thumbup:


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

jstnGTI said:


> :thumbup:


:thumbup::thumbup:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

jstnGTI said:


> hahaaa. from my t-shirt to my glasses.


:laugh::beer:


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

got my motor off the stand today for the first time in a week and a half. 

clutch kit installed:








my Sachs kit didn't come with an alignment tool, so I used [i think] a 14mm deep well socket and it worked like a charm. 

then, I wrestled the motor into the bay.








barely got it in the bay and the cherry picker in the garage before I had to leave for work. 

Axles still need to be installed, dog bone mount attached, harness, slave... etc. 

got my boost controller in the mail today, STILL waiting on TT manifold, maestro, and a few misc. items to instalWl my fuel pump. 
high hopes and wishful thinking says this motor will run this weekend. 
-fingers crossed.


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## Dub-Nub (Sep 27, 2005)

Nice build. I would have went re-routed dump because the screamer pipe will get annoying in time.


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

read up on it a lot before I made the decision. wanted to hear this bad boy scream for myself. sounded gnarly on YouTube.


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## Dub-Nub (Sep 27, 2005)

jstnGTI said:


> read up on it a lot before I made the decision. wanted to hear this bad boy scream for myself. sounded gnarly on YouTube.


oh I know exactly what you mean becuase i was in the exact same position. I originally had the open dump on my pagparts build but in the end sent it off to him for a re-route because it was just getting annoying. i wanted to hear the turbo spool.


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## mm2129 (Feb 3, 2009)

opcorn: subscribed can't wait to see more! :thumbup:


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## Dub-Nub (Sep 27, 2005)

you better be putting it all together cause i know you got the tt manifold:thumbup:


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

Dub-Nub said:


> you better be putting it all together cause i know you got the tt manifold:thumbup:


hahah, yes!

straightened everything out. shift linkage installed ( was a mother fcker to get unstuck from behind the motor since I rushed putting it in), dogbone attached, and started working on the half of ic piping I could without the mani. 









THEN, Friday the mani came in 








wrinkle black- sick. 

had to work 12's this weekend over night, so it took up some car time. but I was able to swap everything to the new mani and clean my throttle body. 









the 630's sit way higher, so I'm going to use some tubing as a spacer or a lot of washers and longer grip bolts. also going to need some new vacuum line cause the ports for the fpr are opposite. 

i'll get it sorted out. 


still waiting on software and fuel pump install kit. 
I'll get everything buttoned up so those are the last two things i need. 

MORE TO COME!

sad to say it won't run this weekend :\


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Proper fuel rail spacers can be purchased from USRT or ECStuning


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## a4e3y5 (Jan 21, 2009)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Proper fuel rail spacers can be purchased from USRT or ECStuning


X2. It'll save u headaches! he he


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Proper fuel rail spacers can be purchased from USRT or ECStuning


more of a DIY kinda guy. 








plus I had these laying around.


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## ForVWLife (Nov 12, 2004)

Dub-Nub said:


> Nice build. I would have went re-routed dump because the screamer pipe will get annoying in time.


:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh: you must be old


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## Dub-Nub (Sep 27, 2005)

ForVWLife said:


> :laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh: you must be old


Respect your elders!! :laugh:

but no i am not old


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## ForVWLife (Nov 12, 2004)

Dub-Nub said:


> Respect your elders!! :laugh:
> 
> but no i am not old


:laugh::laugh:

i actually missed your 2nd post the first time



Dub-Nub said:


> i wanted to hear the turbo spool.


mine is open dump....i hear tons of spool then screams like none other :screwy:


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## Dub-Nub (Sep 27, 2005)

ForVWLife said:


> :laugh::laugh:
> 
> i actually missed your 2nd post the first time
> 
> ...


so you heard the turbo spool then the pipe scream? Did you heat the turbo spool while the pipes screamed?

Cause my turbo didnt spool slow :laugh:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

jstnGTI said:


> more of a DIY kinda guy.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


:beer: i glued/stacked washers


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

anyone know what to do with my n275 valve wires? how to properly delete it? 

cut the wires and tape them off?

as you know I have a manual boost controller, and maestro I assume will let me code it out. 

just have a left over plug.


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## Dub-Nub (Sep 27, 2005)

jstnGTI said:


> anyone know what to do with my n275 valve wires? how to properly delete it?
> 
> cut the wires and tape them off?
> 
> ...


Just tug the wires away somewhere, dont cut anything.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

def do not cut wires, you can trim away the harness wrapping and re-wrap once you get some slack.


i hear my turbo spool whilst my dum screams..cos the billet wheel, with no filter,etc is effing LOUD..it makes a creepy whine at idle..you can hear it sucking air..love it.


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## a4e3y5 (Jan 21, 2009)

Dub-Nub said:


> Just tug the wires away somewhere, dont cut anything.


X3

Sent from te lo mande desde mi cel!


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## Dub-Nub (Sep 27, 2005)

Vegeta Gti said:


> def do not cut wires, you can trim away the harness wrapping and re-wrap once you get some slack.
> 
> 
> i hear my turbo spool whilst my dum screams..cos the billet wheel, with no filter,etc is effing LOUD..it makes a creepy whine at idle..you can hear it sucking air..love it.


well that makes sense then


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

so you're telling me, leave it as is... Unplugged and tucked away? 

what if I cut the slack, and wrap the two individually (not touching)?
still a bad idea? haha 
-------
did some harness maintenance today. separated, re wrapped a couple things, cleaned it up. 
mostly for the new manifold, and tryin to keep my wires "tucked."

when I had my harness apart the first time, I cut back the washer and coolant fluid sensor wires with no problems, resistored everything else. 

quick shot of my unfinished bay while I still had the motor in:









real update coming shortly. almost finished the harness today, when I ran into that problem. core support and front mount will happen next.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

If you're going to cut ANYTHING out of the harness; it has to be resistored


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

as a temp solution, leave it unplugged or plug it in and cap the vacuum lines? 

i apologize for the amount of questions, I'm still not clear on what to do. 

just don't want to go limp q;

SN: LOOOOOOK WHAT I CAME HOME TO!











YES!


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## David_Tedder (Oct 24, 2005)

looks great dude, 

i would suggest some dei heat wrap for your oil/coolant lines 

and maybe some header wrap over your intake pipe ( i know it looks so good tho) but id prefer to have cooler intake temps, especially when its right above mani/wg 

:thumbup: just some thoughts


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

ooooookay! really trying to sew this build up!

downpipe installed, rest of the exhaust will be made locally after break-in happens.








rear O2 sensor doesn't reach, might cap it off, might extend it, haven't decided..
no cat, anyway.

got some passenger side shaving done, looks ****ty IRL right now... not my main concern atm.
















core support mounted, started mocking up FMIC piping, getting ready to drill rebar.

















gotta go mount my IC.
ALMOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOST DONE!



*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> If you're going to cut ANYTHING out of the harness; it has to be resistored


good call, buddy. 
got a resistor on the way.



jstnGTI said:


> as a temp solution, leave it unplugged or plug it in and cap the vacuum lines?
> 
> i apologize for the amount of questions, I'm still not clear on what to do.
> 
> just don't want to go limp q;


still need an answer for this.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

> as a temp solution, leave it unplugged or plug it in and cap the vacuum lines?
> 
> i apologize for the amount of questions, I'm still not clear on what to do.
> 
> just don't want to go limp q;


if you can tune it out with maestro, don't bother plugging it in
if you cannot, then leave it electronically plugged in only
you don't have to cap anything, as there won't be anything attached to it, right?
what are you using for boost control? an MBC or EBC or just from the WG for now?


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

I really hope that you plan on cutting into the rebar, that is way too low and I am not sure how you will ever fit any bumper on there like that...if you manage to massage a bumper on there, then you will destroy your IC with the first speed bump  then driving your car with no IC is not very much fun overboosting your turdbo ...


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## David_Tedder (Oct 24, 2005)

you will 100% need to cut out ur rebar, something like this (i cut out too much cuz it was my first time but it did the job, make sure u have a serious cobalt drill bit and top notch sawz all blades, those rebars r no joke, i ended up using a torch


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

yeeeeaaahhh. I just had it sitting there. gotta cut soooo much. 

I'm just trying to get it into position so my bumper will fit, then make the cuts.


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## GTIhatchin (Mar 28, 2012)

hey quik question where did you get that coolant filler neck??


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

GTIhatchin said:


> hey quik question where did you get that coolant filler neck??


auto parts store. locally. make some calls.

local parts store had to order it from their warehouse within the state. 
order it online if you have to.


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## GTIhatchin (Mar 28, 2012)

Looked at summit and jegs couldn't find nothing was just wondering


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

ugh.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

i bought my moroso filler neck on ebay, but i have seen them on jegs before as well. another company called "CSR" makes nice billet filler necks as well. 1.25" is what you want for the stock upper radiator hose. i bought 1.5", it was too big so i had to run 1.5" hose up to the coolant flange from the radiator inlet


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

The only time the screamer pipe opens is at full boost. Unless you are boosting 10psi it will hardly ever be open. 

I have also read that the wastegate regulates boost better with it open. Not sure if there is any truth to that


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## Rumpelstilzchen (Oct 24, 2009)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> The only time the screamer pipe opens is at full boost. Unless you are boosting 10psi it will hardly ever be open.
> 
> I have also read that the wastegate regulates boost better with it open. Not sure if there is any truth to that


I have read that with an open dump you get a lot of exhaust fumes within the cabin etc...any truth to that?


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Rumpelstilzchen said:


> I have read that with an open dump you get a lot of exhaust fumes within the cabin etc...any truth to that?


False, its not like its open just idling, it opens when your giving the car hell so it doesn't have tme to reach the cab :laugh:


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Rumpelstilzchen said:


> I have read that with an open dump you get a lot of exhaust fumes within the cabin etc...any truth to that?


Unless you drive around at wide open throttle all the time I don't see how that is possible


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## Rumpelstilzchen (Oct 24, 2009)

One-Eight GTI said:


> False, its not like its open just idling, it opens when your giving the car hell so it doesn't have tme to reach the cab :laugh:


That makes sense:thumbup::beer:



formerly silveratljetta said:


> Unless you drive around at wide open throttle all the time I don't see how that is possible


haha, yeah I guess I did not think about it too much and ended up asking a stupid question:beer:



Any updates JstnGTI?


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

Rumpelstilzchen said:


> Any updates JstnGTI?


started the car just now. everything seems to be sound. except i have no throttle response.

had to extend my rear o2 sensor, so i think an error there might be the problem.
it's dark, i'm tired. i'm waiting for my phone to charge cause i don't own a legit flash light.
going to re-evaluate the rushed wiring and see if i can solve the problem and get this bad boy broken in.

after i figure this out, i'll fill in the gaps, pictures and all.
right now it's just a mad dash to get this beast back on the road.


edit: o2 sensor wiring is fine. car idles, moves when clutch is disengagued (vr6 clutch feels nice ) but no throttle. epc light is on. 

got some searching to do.... tomorrow.

Edit edit: I may have moved the throttle position a tiny bit while cleaning it before I swapped it to the TT manifold. could be the problem according to this:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/481668-EPC-Light-and-No-Throttle
Second post.


I don't think it's my pedal. never had a problem, and never touched it.
MAF is unplugged, but according to maestro, the tune will automatically go to "mafless" mode if it's unplugged. 

:banghead:


help.


----------



## Dub-Nub (Sep 27, 2005)

Do a throttle body alignment. Measuring block 060 and then click "basic settings".


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Dub-Nub said:


> Do a throttle body alignment. Measuring block 060 and then click "basic settings".


:thumbup: i remember i had to unplug my throttle body once and when i put it back it wasn't quite snug and i had the EPC light and no throttle until i fixed it. make sure the plug is on there all the way and no water or other fluids has got in there


----------



## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

Dub-Nub said:


> Do a throttle body alignment. Measuring block 060 and then click "basic settings".





Big_Tom said:


> :thumbup: i remember i had to unplug my throttle body once and when i put it back it wasn't quite snug and i had the EPC light and no throttle until i fixed it. make sure the plug is on there all the way and no water or other fluids has got in there


Thanks guys. did both and now the car won't start. I'm not sure what to do from here.


----------



## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

Followed this: 



jwalker1.8 said:


> How To – Perform a Throttle Body Adaptation
> If your car is idling poorly, has recently been reflashed, or the battery has been disconnected, you may need to perform a Throttle Body Adaptation.
> Step 1 – Connect your Powertap Tuning Cable to your computer and plug it into your vehicle’s OBDII port. Open the Eurodyne Flash Client software. Turn your Key to the ‘On’ position but do not start your car.
> *** The Eurodyne Flash Client and Maestro 7 Tuning Suite are updated frequently, make sure you are running the most recent software versions to ensure your cable functions properly.***
> ...











still have power, just now it won't do anything after turning the key. 








this is as far as I get.


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^not sure about the car problems, but change your sig


----------



## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

Big_Tom said:


> ^^not sure about the car problems, but change your sig


Thanks big tom... >.>


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Does it crank and just not turn over or does it not even try to crank?


----------



## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Does it crank and just not turn over or does it not even try to crank?



It cranked AND started the first time I did the adaption ( still no throttle ). after that nothing. 

I updated maestro to 4.2.7 from 4.2.6. I'm going to try again in a little bit.

reaaaally want to get this bad boy running. if nothing after this try, I might try a friends TB in the morning.


----------



## a4e3y5 (Jan 21, 2009)

Try disconnecting the battery for at least 15 minutes, then give it a try. I had the same issue once where i disconnect the TB for cleaning n when plugged again it gave me hell. I had to do like 15 TB adaptations in a 3 day span until it got working back again (got the EPC n it wouldnt rev). I learned no to unplug my TB ever again!


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

a4e3y5 said:


> Try disconnecting the battery for at least 15 minutes, then give it a try. I had the same issue once where i disconnect the TB for cleaning n when plugged again it gave me hell. I had to do like 15 TB adaptations in a 3 day span until it got working back again (got the EPC n it wouldnt rev). I learned no to unplug my TB ever again!


:beer: damn i don't mess with mine either. unplugging the battery for a while does help sometimes


----------



## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

a4e3y5 said:


> Try disconnecting the battery for at least 15 minutes, then give it a try. I had the same issue once where i disconnect the TB for cleaning n when plugged again it gave me hell. I had to do like 15 TB adaptations in a 3 day span until it got working back again (got the EPC n it wouldnt rev). I learned no to unplug my TB ever again!



I'll try it. thanks buddy.


----------



## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

no luck. anyone have any other suggestions?

any way this can be ECU related?

I did have to cut/ extend the rear o2 wires. maybe some of them touched? there are two white wires, maybe I mixed them up at one point?
http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthread.php?4904380-road-kill-EPC-light-and-no-throttle

fuuuuuck.


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

jstnGTI said:


> no luck. anyone have any other suggestions?
> 
> any way this can be ECU related?
> 
> ...


that could be your problem. they sell extenders for like 10 bux on ebay :thumbup:


----------



## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

Big_Tom said:


> that could be your problem. they sell extenders for like 10 bux on ebay :thumbup:



didn't even need to extend it after all -________________________-


just had to unravel it a bit.







IDIOT!


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

jstnGTI said:


> didn't even need to extend it after all -________________________-
> 
> 
> just had to unravel it a bit.
> ...


yeah, i didnt think Arnold would do that to you lol. he doesn't slip like that :beer:


----------



## kevdakaotic (Mar 2, 2001)

*yo*

Hey man...nice project you got going. I am going to start mine soon too. (waiting for it to cool down in Texas)

I had issues with my gti years ago where it would not turn over. It would also just radomly die at stop lights. It turned out to be a bad crank position sensor. You should check the crank position sensor and the crank sensor. 

Check those two out and get back.

I want to see your **** run!


----------



## Hedgehodge (Nov 7, 2008)

I'm wondering if you'd do mine next.thanks. Also total cost doing it yourself if you don't mind me asking. Wish i stayedin sservice fit that nice paycheck lol. I want to do this but with a spare motor for free time and twin scroll. V/r:beer:


----------



## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

Big_Tom said:


> yeah, i didnt think Arnold would do that to you lol. he doesn't slip like that :beer:


can't blame Arnold, haha.
1.) before today I didn't know you _reeeally_ didn't even need to use it. 
2.) I didn't even try to unravel the harness. 

my lack of knowledge completely. wish I knew how sensitive that o2 sensor was though.



kevdakaotic said:


> Hey man...nice project you got going. I am going to start mine soon too. (waiting for it to cool down in Texas)
> 
> I had issues with my gti years ago where it would not turn over. It would also just radomly die at stop lights. It turned out to be a bad crank position sensor. You should check the crank position sensor and the crank sensor.
> 
> ...


^that makes two of us! 

found out it wasn't turning over because I forgot to ground the motor to the frame and partially because my battery was low. turned over last night, still nothing. sourced an ecu a couple hours away and I think i'm going to make the drive. thanks for the input!



Hedgehodge said:


> I'm wondering if you'd do mine next.thanks. Also total cost doing it yourself if you don't mind me asking. Wish i stayedin sservice fit that nice paycheck lol. I want to do this but with a spare motor for free time and twin scroll. V/r:beer:


I'd do that! sounds sick.

You do know i'm located in Washington state though, right?


----------



## kevdakaotic (Mar 2, 2001)

so you think you fried the ECU? Do you think crossing those white wires on the o2s coulda fried it?

oh well. You will get it. Nothing good comes easily most the time. Just keep pressing on.
:thumbup:


----------



## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

I put quick connectors on the harness side and stupid me didn't wrap them in tape so I think the shirt happened when they touched. found an ecu _kinda _ locally (3 hours) and flashed it the correct way and it ran! 

Took it out for a drive, had some issues. 

got some kinks to work out, but it'll come along.


----------



## kevdakaotic (Mar 2, 2001)

Did you build the head at all? I want to do basically the same build, but I want to throw some exhaust valves and springs while I have the head off...maybe polish the ports.


----------



## Jus2nyc (Jan 12, 2012)

kevdakaotic said:


> Did you build the head at all? I want to do basically the same build, but I want to throw some exhaust valves and springs while I have the head off...maybe polish the ports.


 +1 on that. 

@jstnGTI, well done bru. It's the home stretch now. 

I wish the rand dollar exchange rate would drop so i could go BT on my car. 

BT 1.8T 20v FTW!:thumbup:


----------



## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

kevdakaotic said:


> Did you build the head at all? I want to do basically the same build, but I want to throw some exhaust valves and springs while I have the head off...maybe polish the ports.


 Nah, didn't do any head work. just cleaned up all the carbon build up and the deck before putting it back on. 

something large port would have been nice , valves prolly would've been nice too. just wasn't any room in my budget for valves, unfortunately.


----------



## kevdakaotic (Mar 2, 2001)

yah, this build isn't really in my budget, looking at about 7gs...I figure whats another grand? :screwy:


----------



## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

kevdakaotic said:


> yah, this build isn't really in my budget, looking at about 7gs...I figure whats another grand? :screwy:


 I think I'd puke if i added up all the money spent on this build, hahaha. 

it's the little things that rape. 

hose clamps, hoses, hardware, fluids, ciggarettes, last minute specialty tools, impatiently overnighting things, replacing things you fck up, etc. etc. etc.


----------



## 20VCanuck (Mar 11, 2011)

I just did a bt build, no where near as awesome as yours but I bet I hit the parts store 15 times in two days while I was building it. Probably near 5k in parts over here. 


You should bring this down to Great canadian at the end of the month! 
http://gcvws.com/


----------



## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)




----------



## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

hmmm. okay. 

initially i had a huge problem with oil getting everywhere, smoke for days, etc. 
thought i had a turbo problem, but i called a local place that rebuilds turbos, and they suggested checking my crankcase pressure, and "angle of oil return." 

did some investigating, and realized my catch can was hooked up incorrectly, and the oil return line wasn't making a straight route back into the oil pan. 

sorted those things out last night, changed the oil from ND 30, (after the initial break-in) , ran the car down the street after it got to temperature, and things seemed to be looking up. 

extreme decrease of oil smoke, spillage, things like that. and the turbo actually built boost. very shortly, brief, but i know it did. 
hit 15 on the small road in front of my house. (open downpipe, didn't want to get pulled over in the street.) 

i got pretttttttty excited. 

here's the problem, i let it idle til it warmed itself, then tried to take it out. 
no boost at all. 
ran codes, nothing. 

no matter how much throttle, doesn't go past 0. 


what kind of things should i be looking for? should i be seriously concerned with something vital? i know i need to take a compression test to monitor how the break-in went, was having problems during that time, again...


----------



## 20VCanuck (Mar 11, 2011)

sounds obvious but your boost hoses to see if one of them blew off,


----------



## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

20VCanuck said:


> sounds obvious but your boost hoses to see if one of them blew off,


 checked around. no dice. I increased the boost on the mbc, with hopes the wastegate was stuck open. I'll check to see if I have any luck the next time I can run it again. waiting on exhaust to come in so I can do actual road tests. 3" open downpipe is waaaaay too loud.


----------



## jbdubn (Feb 3, 2009)

Try running off your wastegate spring only. Maybe your mbc is hooked up incorrectly?


----------



## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

the mbc came with a diagram, haha. I'll try it though.


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Why not use the N75 to confirm things work? Maybe its just me, but MBCs seem to work as often as not (my TT never liked the HPBC I have in a drawer)


----------



## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

arnolds kits have changed alot as far as appearance since Val(BT 18T) and i got our original T3 kits. i think alot of my feedback to Arnold helped with that stuff. hes a great guy, and listens to all of his customers input as far as small fit and finish details are concerned. 

here is what my setup looked like. started working on it in 2007 working with Arnold on the FMIC layout, what was originally going to be a passenger side dual pass, i wanted it driver side with a TT manifold, so later i could run a SEM. the hardware fit great and performed even better 










still wrapping it up. OEM battery and battery case fit like a glove 










silicone outlet, to pancake, to PPT pipe. 










FMIC and pipework 











i loved my PAG kit, it was perfect on the street, drove better than stock and surprised A LOT of people.


----------



## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

l88m22vette said:


> Why not use the N75 to confirm things work? Maybe its just me, but MBCs seem to work as often as not (my TT never liked the HPBC I have in a drawer)


 Deleted and resistored. 

Hallman pro mbc? That's the one I got after the nut and bolt blew out of the one I bought from silverjetta. my fault entirely. 



boosted b5 said:


> arnolds kits have changed alot as far as appearance since Val(BT 18T) and i got our original T3 kits. i think alot of my feedback to Arnold helped with that stuff. hes a great guy, and listens to all of his customers input as far as small fit and finish details are concerned.
> 
> here is what my setup looked like. started working on it in 2007 working with Arnold on the FMIC layout, what was originally going to be a passenger side dual pass, i wanted it driver side with a TT manifold, so later i could run a SEM. the hardware fit great and performed even better
> 
> ...


 cool bro.


----------



## 11:11 (Jan 23, 2006)

jstnGTI, please check your PM 

cheers bud!


----------



## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

my apologies for the lack of updates/neglect towards this thread, but I just got the car up and running smoothly.... kinda. 

I think I have to try to dial in my boost controller. as of now, nothing hinders the boost from reaching 30+ (that's how far my boost gauge reads). I have to kinda ease the pedal along in order to avoid something terrible. I know this because I stepped on it ONCE, and my boost gauge went crazy. got scared and said i wouldn't do that again, hahaha. 

got 20lbs over three springs in my wastegate, and I still haven't loosened to the boost controller all the way to see what happens. my goal is to boost 20-22lbs. 

going up the rpms is pretty choppy. like, it's stumbling. I'm going to go ahead an attribute that to the sht coil packs. will upgrade to 2.0 real soon. 

any suggestions would help on the over boost issue. 

I'm going to make an effort to hit the dyno and get some videos up soon for you guys! 

thanks for watching!


----------



## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

20VCanuck said:


> sounds obvious but your boost hoses to see if one of them blew off,


 Turns out, this was exactly it. ic clamp right off the turbo blew off. 


props!


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

If there are three springs in there, take out the small burgundy one. Do you have the vac line on one of the bottom ports and everything else plugged? The top has to have at least one open if you're using an MBC. Sounds like you need to gap the plugs :thumbup:


----------



## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> Sounds like you need to gap the plugs :thumbup:


 over 24psi i ran the 4554 plug(8 range) gapped at .020" and it ran great


----------



## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> If there are three springs in there, take out the small burgundy one. Do you have the vac line on one of the bottom ports and everything else plugged? The top has to have at least one open if you're using an MBC. Sounds like you need to gap the plugs :thumbup:


 Hey Arnold! nice to hear from you. 

yes, all the unused vacuum ports around the base are plugged. the one on the tippy top is open and the one directly below that. 








i _thiiiiiink_ that's correct? 

then again, I haven't heard the wastegate open yet.


----------



## 20VCanuck (Mar 11, 2011)

jstnGTI said:


> Turns out, this was exactly it. ic clamp right off the turbo blew off.
> 
> 
> props!


 Glad you have er' going. Ha, wow your having the same issue's I have been having on my build. 

I was boosting to no end when I first had it going. I had the mbc on backwards. Running no tension on the mbc (Or try running a line directly from wastegate to vac port on manifold) should result in running off wastegate pressure. 

Im also having stumbling issues when part throttle driving and sometimes in boost. Im going to close the gap up to .26 on bkr7e 

Goodluck!


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

jstnGTI said:


> Hey Arnold! nice to hear from you.
> 
> yes, all the unused vacuum ports around the base are plugged. the one on the tippy top is open and the one directly below that.
> 
> ...


 Hey Justin. Rotate the gate so the dump is closer to the valve cover bw the intake and head so it gets away from the inlet pipe. You can angle it appropriately because it is an open dump. You have it plugged in fine and perhaps need to adjust your boost settings and take out the smallest spring in the wastegate. You can experiment w/ spring rates as well but you should only have two springs in there to start as tial seems to want to package them with 3 springs by default.


----------



## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

^okay. I'll try it tonight in a vise. it was TOO hard to close that wastegate by hand. doing it after the motor was in was a bad idea! hahah 

the mbc came with a diagram, and I installed it accordingly. 

the wastegate sounds like it's fluttering, which I think means it's trying to open, but can't. 

we shall seeeeeeee. 
Thanks for everyone's help!


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

Yeah its tough. Thank goodness for 20 ton presses in the shop but gotta be careful


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> Yeah its tough. Thank goodness for 20 ton presses in the shop but gotta be careful


 LOL, 20 ton press :thumbup:


----------



## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

Big_Tom said:


> LOL, 20 ton press :thumbup:


 My foot is a 20 ton press (; 
Haha


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

This is the best tool for holding the wastegate closed during reassembly. It won't scratch it like a vise either. You can purchase at any home depot :thumbup:


----------



## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

are you serious?! I own one of those and have never used it! honestly I don't even know where it came from. haha. 

I planned on using cardboard between the vise and the gate. protect it. it's so slick looking, you know?


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

jstnGTI said:


> are you serious?! I own one of those and have never used it! honestly I don't even know where it came from. haha.
> 
> I planned on using cardboard between the vise and the gate. protect it. it's so slick looking, you know?


 the rubber pads on the vise will protect it. I put the maximum spring pressure in it using that vise.


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> the rubber pads on the vise will protect it. I put the maximum spring pressure in it using that vise.


 He was referring to his bench vice


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

*+NEIL*+DIAMOND*+ said:


> He was referring to his bench vice


 Whoops my bad


----------



## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

well, I tried the black spring (.4 bar) and the blue spring (.4 bar) for a total for .8 bar for a total of ~11.6 psi. Have the mbc adjusted nearly all the way out. still no control over boost. 

Hallman pro mbc 








installed according to this. 
Tial 38mm mvs[?] wastegate. 

I think it flutters less with the subtraction of that third spring.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

jstnGTI said:


> well, I tried the black spring (.4 bar) and the blue spring (.4 bar) for a total for .8 bar for a total of ~11.6 psi. Have the mbc adjusted nearly all the way out. still no control over boost.
> 
> Hallman pro mbc
> 
> ...


 Forget the boost controller for now. Connect the vacuum line straight to the wastegate and see if it runs properly just using the wastegate spring


----------



## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Forget the boost controller for now. Connect the vacuum line straight to the wastegate and see if it runs properly just using the wastegate spring


 i'll give it a try. thanks buddy.


----------



## Dub-Nub (Sep 27, 2005)

manual boost controller can suck it, they are terrible :thumbdown:


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Dub-Nub said:


> manual boost controller can suck it, they are terrible :thumbdown:


 i love mine. i think they are pretty simple to operate


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Dub-Nub said:


> manual boost controller can suck it, they are terrible :thumbdown:


 This. I'd get a nice EBC, or even try to reinstall the N75 if you want to keep it cheap until you find the problem. Even if you don't use the N75 you can just keep it plugged in instead or recutting and resoldering. Essentially its free, but might as well try the direct WG connection too...


----------



## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

Big_Tom said:


> i love mine. i think they are pretty simple to operate


 well, big Tom, I agree. 

got the boost to hold at >or= 20 pounds. when I changed the springs at work I didn't have the a small enough screwdriver to tighten the hose clamp down on the gate. got home and fixed it right up. 

I guess the next thing is another oil change at 250miles before synthetic again. 

Then dyno. how do you conclude one of these threads? haha


----------



## Dub-Nub (Sep 27, 2005)

jstnGTI said:


> well, big Tom, I agree.
> 
> got the boost to hold at >or= 20 pounds. when I changed the springs at work I didn't have the a small enough screwdriver to tighten the hose clamp down on the gate. got home and fixed it right up.
> 
> ...


 
Conclude what? Every person knows very well that you never "conclude" a build. This thread will keep going and going and goinnng and goingg :laugh:


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

jstnGTI said:


> Then dyno. how do you conclude one of these threads? haha


 you don't


----------



## VRsick13 (May 28, 2008)

Welcome to the world of a BT 1.8t. It is a never ending process of having to fix "this and that."


----------



## Dub-Nub (Sep 27, 2005)

Meme Generator


----------



## a4e3y5 (Jan 21, 2009)

jstnGTI said:


> well, big Tom, I agree.
> 
> got the boost to hold at >or= 20 pounds. when I changed the springs at work I didn't have the a small enough screwdriver to tighten the hose clamp down on the gate. got home and fixed it right up.
> 
> ...


 Glad u fixed it. I had the Blox which is an exact copy n never had a problem. N ur threas will never conclude he he he.


----------



## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

a4e3y5 said:


> Glad u fixed it. I had the Blox which is an exact copy n never had a problem. N ur threas will never conclude he he he.


 what you think, bro? 24 pounds safe? 

I see you're running it on the 50 trim, 56trim @24 pounds any different for the pistons/valves/block?


----------



## a4e3y5 (Jan 21, 2009)

jstnGTI said:


> what you think, bro? 24 pounds safe?
> 
> I see you're running it on the 50 trim, 56trim @24 pounds any different for the pistons/valves/block?


 Ive done 27 psi a few times, but because im still running the OEM clutch I keep it at 24. Also journal bearing turbos dont like to be pushed past 27psi...so for durability issues I keep it at that psi as well. U have ur internals done as well as a ball bearing turbo, so u can go up to 27psi and be comfortable. Right now ur turbo is in breeze mode he he. On GTG nites u can crank it to 30psi to smoke the competition. Since ur thread will never end, think of getting a dual boost controller...either manual or electronic, that way u can run 25psi daily n 28-30psi for frisky nites!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

a4e3y5 said:


> Ive done 27 psi a few times, but because im still running the OEM clutch I keep it at 24. Also journal bearing turbos dont like to be pushed past 27psi...so for durability issues I keep it at that psi as well. U have ur internals done as well as a ball bearing turbo, so u can go up to 27psi and be comfortable. Right now ur turbo is in breeze mode he he. On GTG nites u can crank it to 30psi to smoke the competition. Since ur thread will never end, think of getting a dual boost controller...either manual or electronic, that way u can run 25psi daily n 28-30psi for frisky nites!
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk 2


:beer: 27 psi, YUM! i keep mine at 22 usually. have run 25 and higher @ times, but not for long. it's a lot of fun tho :thumbup:


----------



## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

a handful of wise men said, "you never stop modding your 1.8t."

true statement. 









finally tucked pass side harness, and put my pass wiper back on. looks weird with two wipers. 








picked up some poly inserts. shout out to sappersMkIV








cleaned up used rubber and gunk. 








bfi inserts installed








can't wait to take it for a drive and feel the difference. (wife's car is blocking me in the driveway)



also, took a short video last night. eventually I'll upload it and post. 
found a local dyno, 200 miles left on the clutch break-in. pretty excited. been turning the boost up gradually, gets more fun every time.


----------



## a4e3y5 (Jan 21, 2009)

Thats a simple yet very effective mod.:thumbup:

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Nice job, looks very clean:thumbup:


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

jstnGTI said:


> and put my pass wiper back on. looks weird with two wipers.


LOLoLOL... Sorry, I haven't had my pass wiper on the car for more than a year  
Drives my wife mad when it rains. I don't see what the issue is


----------



## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

elRey said:


> Love the look of Arnold's stuff... his turbo stuff. Haven't had the pleasure of the his other stuff.


sureeeeeee, hahaha.


----------



## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

a4e3y5 said:


> Thats a simple yet very effective mod.


wow. no kidding. feels amazing. waaaaay smoother. I'm content.


----------



## sponcar (Feb 5, 2010)

jstnGTI said:


> well, I tried the black spring (.4 bar) and the blue spring (.4 bar) for a total for .8 bar for a total of ~11.6 psi. Have the mbc adjusted nearly all the way out. still no control over boost.
> 
> Hallman pro mbc
> 
> ...


hmmm according to this pic, i have mine the wrong way then


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## strokednshaved (Nov 4, 2012)

Only thing i would have sone was do.something else with that intake piping. Its almost resting on the wastegate gets incredible hot. I feel like it would unnecessarily increase imtake air temps also the ambient heat from turbo many will have that intake piping hot enough to cook eggs on. Just my opinion. I have built two different bt kits for the 1.8t. Also i think you have done a great job with this build. Heres my dyno of my.last build. 375whp. Im gpimg for 600whp this year. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEWoEC_5W9s&feature=youtube_gdata_player


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

Dub-Nub said:


> Conclude what? Every person knows very well that you never "conclude" a build. This thread will keep going and going and goinnng and goingg :laugh:



word. 








couple hours later:








goodies from 034








strip down begins (this time, a little more than the motor)
























this f-er took me longer to get out than the entire dash.
















dwindling down








finally got the wires pulled through
















was originally going to re-locate this stuff in the cabin, but it was tough finding room in there with all the ventilation ducts taking it all up.

















then worked less on wires, because i figured it'd be easiest to do body work/shave with it all out of the way.

rest of my parts showed up.. not all at the same time of course.








Hit the 6061 with some Alodine.








dropped frame earlier today








"layin' fraaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaame"








got the old bushings out








took forever, but got it all scuffed up. (and smoked a cig)








hit it w/ bedliner
























mintttt.... if i don't say so myself xD








FFE positive engagement solid shifter bushings. had to take a little metal off the original holes for them to fit.








extended/wrapped/mock ran my o2 sensor wires








pulled the car out, cleaned up a bit, tiny workspace shot.









*shaaaaave time*
templates:








realized how stupid this idea was ^^ hahaha
















killed it








primed the bare metal underneath where the plate will sit. taped off the bare metal edges where it will be welded.










pass side is currently in work. the original template i made wasn't the right approach. going about it a little differently.


:beer: to anyone who can tell me what this does? 








sits in the rain tray, driver side, above where the wires are routed to the turn signal.


*note to mods:*
i'm doing a little less work to motor than before. if this build is getting too off topic, please let me know or transcribe to the mk4 sub-forum.


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## Aronc (Jan 30, 2006)

Air temp sensor, its wired in to the Fan control module. however not sure what its signal actually effects


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

ascgti89 said:


> Air temp sensor, its wired in to the Fan control module. however not sure what its signal actually effects


yeah, I figured it was something along those lines. thought maybe it was something to do with one of those digital clusters that read the outside air temp. I don't have one those.


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## SGTphatboy (Aug 21, 2004)

nice work :beer:


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## 87vr6 (Jan 17, 2002)

*FV-QR*

did you ever dyno?

and 3-spoke bags are easy to take off... its the 4 spokers that realllllly suck


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

SGTphatboy said:


> nice work :beer:


hey, thanks man. 




87vr6 said:


> did you ever dyno?
> 
> and 3-spoke bags are easy to take off... its the 4 spokers that realllllly suck


no, I never did. the dynos up here are pretty pricey and I was hoping to catch a dyno day. doesn't seem to happen very frequently in this area. 

I found a prime you-tube video of how to take it off, got it in a snap after I used an Allen key.


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

strokednshaved said:


> Only thing i would have sone was do.something else with that intake piping. Its almost resting on the wastegate gets incredible hot. I feel like it would unnecessarily increase imtake air temps also the ambient heat from turbo many will have that intake piping hot enough to cook eggs on. Just my opinion. I have built two different bt kits for the 1.8t. Also i think you have done a great job with this build. Heres my dyno of my.last build. 375whp. Im gpimg for 600whp this year. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEWoEC_5W9s&feature=youtube_gdata_player


sick. what would you suggest? I'm seriously considering putting a 4" stubby filter on the front of my turbo to completely eliminate the TIP. clean up the bay a bit.


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## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

You would think that it would pick up heat. While the pipe does get hot, once you get moving, its picking up cooler air off to the side. It doesnt have enough time to get heated up by the pipe when you get on it. Once its squished and compressed by the comp cover (which is even hotter), it picks up heat in this area mostly. Putting a filter on the inlet of the turbo will ensure that you're starting off very hot as its picking up heat shed by a very hot exhaust manifold. The crossover pipe is a non-issue. Do an IAT log both ways, if you have an efficient charge and IC system, it'll be very consistent no matter what you do...


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

update time! 

more bushing replacement:








spent a couple bucks on one of these bad boys. awesome tool, I already had a rachet wrench the size of the six point. 









my strut tower caps sit flush now 

next I made new bushing from a hockey puck my friend gave me for free. $0 spent!








sleeve is a tiiiiiny bit off center. I think the difference is negligible. 

















Finally made a passenger side plate that fit, so I primed the bare metal underneath the motor mount tower:








mocked up the peices:


















shout out to DuB Fresh for his enginuitity. it was his build thread that gave me the idea for this side sheet.




























I'm actually pretty bad at welding, but I can make stuff stick together really well. so I'm happy. angle grinder has been my best friend this whole time. I imagine the filler will join in and be me second best friend. hahah


more updates very soon to follow.


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> You would think that it would pick up heat. While the pipe does get hot, once you get moving, its picking up cooler air off to the side. It doesnt have enough time to get heated up by the pipe when you get on it. Once its squished and compressed by the comp cover (which is even hotter), it picks up heat in this area mostly. Putting a filter on the inlet of the turbo will ensure that you're starting off very hot as its picking up heat shed by a very hot exhaust manifold. The crossover pipe is a non-issue. Do an IAT log both ways, if you have an efficient charge and IC system, it'll be very consistent no matter what you do...


hey Arnold, thanks a bunch for chiming in on this issue. I will do the logs. I have access to fiberglass, and have the ability to heat wrap some of my ic piping . do you think this would contribute to cooling? Which is/are the most important peices in terms of cooling? also I can prolly fab up a heat shield between the filter and turbo inlet and run a log that way.


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

*small update, large feat. *

finally finished welding up all the holes, plates, etc in the bay. 








looks ugly now, but will soon be silky smooth by the time everything's painted. 








already got a jump on smoothing a couple things over. the glazing putty I picked up locally is legit 









also started working my engine harness for a super tuck. haha









referred to ancient history for cutting into shielded wiring. instead of extending, I will be shortening [knock sensors].

http://forums.triplezoom.com/showthread.php?3802313-Wire-extension-problems


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

seems the more research I do on the subject, the wider the variety of outcomes grows. 

Does anyone with experience know if there's truth to this?




HSTuning said:


> Hey dood just got back in town and have time to post.
> *If you extended the knock sensor wires, extend them identically, (ie if you add 15" of wire to one do the same to the other).*
> As far as wrapping and such, what I did was stripped back the shielded stuff like 2" either way, individually soldered and 3M electrical taped each of the 3 wires, then wrapped all 3 in a piece of aluminum foil so that it was around even part of the shielded cover, and then wrapped 3M electrical tape around all of the foil to hold it in place.
> When I did electrical tests on my harness vs. an unmolested AWP harness the resistance and voltage drop values were damn near close if not exact with the unmolested one.


I will only be shortening one knock sensor, (1&2 side) and I don't need to shorten the other. is it possible to shorten one without I'll effect?


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

really tired of bumming rides: 

















body work still needs touching up/re-priming/topcoat/clear/etc. losing wind in this department. 

goodies 










wires tucked/wrapped/ran. all connectors plugged in/shortened/extended. this I'm happy with. 
















ignore messy garage 










going to try to crank this project out and finish ASAP.


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## izcorrado18 (Aug 21, 2005)

opcorn: I'm laying down and watching this build.


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

^ thanks for looking! SIX PAGES


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

Well, guys... its been a while since I've updated this thread and I thought it might be good time to.

I'll start with where I left off. (aka stopped updating form some reason)








All painted 








Demasked and blemishes ... made better.








Motor back in. 








Found out my factory line was leaking when I was feverishly trying to bleed my clutch and brakes. So I bought this. 








Buttoned up. Dirty.

Fast forward....








This is what daily driving looks like with no fender liners. 


*moving on...*

A while ago while browsing the junkyard for no particular reason, I came across this diamond in the rough. 








Relatively unmolested. Still had the turbo and everything. 








Got it home after briefly looking it over in the yard, to get a really good look at it.
Started digging in, until I couldn't anymore. 








Amazon prime membership has already paid for itself. 
















Got all the valves out. Everything was looking good. 








Especially after I got it back from the machine shop.








Cleaned / surfaced 

Then I got something really special in the mail.

















And another package








OEM b5 s4 throttle body 
Was extremely dirty, so I painted it. 










I contacted Issam at INA for a throttle body adapter that transitions down from 75mm to 70mm smoothly.

I've been taking this pretty slowly this time around; gathering all my parts before I finally get to go large port and let my motor breathe!

Thanks for looking!


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

jstnGTI said:


> OEM b5 s4 throttle body
> Was extremely dirty, so I painted it.


Becareful when putting back on the TPS housing. There are 4 very small contact points that can be bent very easily. Start by putting on the contacts to the motor first and then slide the housing on after.


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

INA said:


> Becareful when putting back on the TPS housing. There are 4 very small contact points that can be bent very easily. Start by putting on the contacts to the motor first and then slide the housing on after.


Thanks for the heads up! 

I noticed those when I popped it off. I took extra caution because I hate how delicate those tiny electric parts are. 

Looking forward to getting this thing mounted up. Hoping the paint goes with the powder coating the previous owner had done.


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

Lapped my first valve this evening.









Will be finishing up the intake side and waiting on the exhaust side. 

Still unsure if exhaust valves are in my future or not.


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## SlowSilver (Apr 9, 2014)

So its 2 years later, what ever came of this?


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