# Sticky  Beat the Heat Frankenturbo F23 Drag Build



## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I posted this in the GLI forum and all I got was the usual downers, so i figured I would post it over hear. 

I finally just about have everything to complete my K04-02X build. So I figured I would do a build thread of everything that I will be completing next month. So far it is looking like this:

I WOULD LOVE TO THANK ISSAM FROM INA AND DOUG FROM FRANKENTURBO FOR THEIR AWESOME PRODUCTS!!!!!!!!!!!

K04-02X Turbo 
380cc Genesis Injectors
USRT Unspacers
Greddy FMIC
Blue Pressure Lines with catch can
AEB Head
AGU Intake Manifold
A6 70mm Throttle Body w/ adapter kit from INA Engineering
R32 Short Shift
Stock oil feed line with AN Fittings
GHL 3" exhaust w/o cat
Wrinkle Coated Valve Cover and Intake Manifold
PCV/SAI/EVAP Delete
2.0T coils with adapter blocks from Integrated Engineering
Eurodyne Software

Rokkor Coilovers
OEM HID's

I will be randomly adding pictures over the course of the next month before I start the build itself. All of this will be completed over the course of 1 week. All head internals were purchased from INA Engineering along with the 70mm Throttle Body Adapter. Should be a fun build. It is really the first one that I have ever done, besides adding cams to my old mk3 8V. I am still unsure of what software I am going to go with. I was going to go with Revo, but something came up. I may end up going eurodyne maestro. 













































































































*Issam from INA, thanks for all the help that you gave me to get this build completed so far!!!!!*


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## jonpwn (Aug 13, 2010)

Have you installed the k04 yet? did you do it without pulling the engine? how was the install


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## Neezy13 (Jun 1, 2011)

I like that valve cover and intake manifold. It looks like that spray in bed liner for trucks 

Sent from my Samsung SGH-I897 with CyanogenMod using Tapatalk.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Yea it is installed with the engine in. It was a pain in the butt. The paint used on the valve and intake manifold is wrinkle coat high heat spray paint I got from Autozone. No discoloration as of yet. 2500 miles on it so far, but I am putting in a Frankenturbo already. This one is leaking oil into the exhaust. Smells wonderful. hahah!!! "sarcasm*


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Installing the f23 I hope?


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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

...I'm workin on it. Seriously, I am. In the meantime, I really like those wheels.


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## rodgertherabit (Apr 16, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> ...I'm workin on it. Seriously, I am. In the meantime, I really like those wheels.


Whatcha workin on...?:sly:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Yes, I will be installing the F23. Can't wait!!! No more burnt oil smell and more power!! 

Gotta get my car resprayed black magic pearl for beat the heat, get some blue lights put on and start racing!! My Jetta will be racing up against a whole lot of big block cars, so hopefully I will be able to keep up a little bit. It is all for fun and education though, but I wouldn't mind winning! 

Waiting on some more stuff from Issam at INA and I will be good to go along with some larger injectors.

I've always loved the Audi A8l wheels, but could never afford the real ones. Those are actually replica's from Lake shore wheel and tire, that is no longer in business.


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## jonpwn (Aug 13, 2010)

how long did it take you to put in the k04? you think you could do it faster the second time around with the f23?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I did everything listed above except for the head, rods and coil overs over the course of 8 days. 

It took a while due to the fact that my braided oil feed line was leaking and than snapped. Installed and uninstalled 3 times before I put the stock line back in. That took up about 5-6 hours. So yea it should take alot less time to install it. I am figuring maybe 2-3 hours, possibly less. The tuning with Maestro is what will take the longest.


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

Cool project....where in Ga? :beer:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Near Lawrenceville.


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

Cool...I'm in Duluth.
I also have a build going (just not advertised).


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## cesarel (Aug 13, 2009)

Nice build, how much $$ for all the parts including turbo.

How much you expect to gain hp? :beer::beer::beer::beer:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Total cost......Too much, lolol!! I have been piecing this kit together for so long since late 2007, I have lost track of the costs. For the base initial setup of the turbo,oil and water lines, injectors, MAF, Pro Imports Up-Pipe and tip, I wanna say about $1500. That is figuring the cost of the used turbo i got from my buddy that I am going to rebuild/sell and replace with the F23 from Doug. I am going to be selling the charge pipe from pro-imports since I am not using the stock smic. That was another $300-$350 I think. All the other odds and ends with the setup is a guessing game. Just happy that i finally got it done!!! 

With the Frankenturbo and supporing mods with the aeb head, agu intake manifold, A6 throttle body and I plan on adding water meth. I should be around what Spartiarti is running on his setup. I think running with WM he hit close to or over 330hp. I might be wrong. Doug can correct me if I am.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

The two things that took the longest to do was the SAI/EVAP/PVC Delete along with the catch can. Due to the size of the catch can it took me forever to find a place to put it. Once I figured out where i was going to put it I needed to get new fittings for it due to the location being different than what i anticipated. I made quite a few trips to home depot and autozone for small vacuum fittings and brass.

Learning Maestro has been tedious as well. When I first opened it, i thought what the heck have i gotten myself into?!?!?!?!? I am slowly learning. I read a post on tuning on standalone software on here and it helped me understand more the injector constants, MAF, and fuel maps. I still have alot more to learn about it all though!!!!


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## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

:thumbup:


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## cesarel (Aug 13, 2009)

BlitzKriegGetta said:


> Total cost......Too much, lolol!! I have been piecing this kit together for so long since late 2007, I have lost track of the costs. For the base initial setup of the turbo,oil and water lines, injectors, MAF, Pro Imports Up-Pipe and tip, I wanna say about $1500. That is figuring the cost of the used turbo i got from my buddy that I am going to rebuild/sell and replace with the F23 from Doug. I am going to be selling the charge pipe from pro-imports since I am not using the stock smic. That was another $300-$350 I think. All the other odds and ends with the setup is a guessing game. Just happy that i finally got it done!!!
> 
> With the Frankenturbo and supporing mods with the aeb head, agu intake manifold, A6 throttle body and I plan on adding water meth. I should be around what Spartiarti is running on his setup. I think running with WM he hit close to or over 330hp. I might be wrong. Doug can correct me if I am.



2007 and cost = too much = bad news for me, you think that in a perfect world, is there a way to get a setup for 3k? maybe a 50trim, a 350$ FMIC, 4XXcc injectors, gasoline and software? and the rest of the parts needed? how good could that be? a 100 hp gain?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am really not sure on the cost of a 50 trim setup since I have never looked at that route. I've always been looking at the 02X setup since you use alot of OEM parts. The gains attributed to a 50 trim, once again I am not sure.

I picked up my greddy fmic on ebay from a parts place that didnt know what they had. Got it for $200. Injectors are gonna run you $200 plus used most likely or just shell out $300 for new ones, which is what I did.


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## cesarel (Aug 13, 2009)

BlitzKriegGetta said:


> I am really not sure on the cost of a 50 trim setup since I have never looked at that route. I've always been looking at the 02X setup since you use alot of OEM parts. The gains attributed to a 50 trim, once again I am not sure.
> 
> I picked up my greddy fmic on ebay from a parts place that didnt know what they had. Got it for $200. Injectors are gonna run you $200 plus used most likely or just shell out $300 for new ones, which is what I did.



yeah thats probably right ill start looking prices and investigation homework.

thanks again man, looking forward to se your results. :beer:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I took my time getting everything that I needed and it worked out for me in the long run. Don't get me wrong it took me almost 5 years, but I am not complaining.


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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

BlitzKriegGetta said:


> I should be around what Spartiarti is running on his setup. I think running with WM he hit close to or over 330hp. I might be wrong. Doug can correct me if I am.


Spartiati is a classic case of "_your results may vary_". Heck, even I can't match what he's doing. So I think 300whp is a better goal. That's not so shabby for a fun daily Mk4.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

[email protected] said:


> Spartiati is a classic case of "_your results may vary_". Heck, even I can't match what he's doing. So I think 300whp is a better goal. That's not so shabby for a fun daily Mk4.


My grandpa was in racing for many years and always talked about how some motors were just hot engines that outperformed everything else. It's like making a huge batch of something and then picking the one that for some reason just is better and more perfect.


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## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

desertdubs just made 415whp on a 50 trim :wave:


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Spartiati is a classic case of "_your results may vary_". Heck, even I can't match what he's doing. So I think 300whp is a better goal. That's not so shabby for a fun daily Mk4.


 Hardware will only get you so far. Spartiati tunes like a boss:beer:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I understand that it may not touch what he got, but I would love it to get close. I want to be able to keep up with some of the cars I will be racing against. Hahah Mainly big block/small block V8's. I will be the only European car in the series.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Frankenturbo will be on tomorrow!!! I will be installing on Monday and Tueday of next week. Working on getting some 630cc injectors and an upgraded fuel pump from INA Engineering to run this setup.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Frankenturbo should be in when I get home today!! I am not excited or anything!!! :sly:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Got the Frankentrubo F23 in last week. I will be installing next Monday and Tuesday as long as I do not have court.  Gonna be getting some 630cc injectors, adjustable fpr and fuel pump from INA as well.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Got the 02X out and Frankenturbo in. Taking a break for a little bit before I put the TIP and intercooler pipes back on. Had a little mishap where a stud broke off for the up pipe on the 02X. Went to Home Depot and fixed the issue.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Well I got it all back together and what do ya know when I start it up I have an exhaust leak from the exhaust manifold to the turbo. I was thinking what on earth is that noise. Placed my hand on the back side of the turbo and felt the exhaust fumes pouring out.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I was looking at the 02X after i took it out and the play in the shaft was horrible!!! Probably a good 16th of an inch. When you spun it you could feel it grinding, literally. No wonder it was smoking so much. I think I am lucky the shaft did not go. Explains alot of the issues I was having. I honestly do not think I will be able to rebuild it unless I get a new shaft. Lately when I shut my car off you could hear the turbo compressor come to a stop. In between shifts you would hear a growling noise from it too.

Car is idling good now besides the exhaust leak. MBC is installed. Tomorrow after court I will be fixing the exhaust leak and tuning the F23 with Maestro.


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## rodgertherabit (Apr 16, 2009)

If you need a hand getting the file loaded up, lemme know. I just went thru this install last week.

Im tempted to make a build thread, but there's a few already...how exactly are you setting up your "stock oil feed line with an fittings"?

Im working with Doug to find the best solution for the F23 Feed with the OEM manifold. Should have some good news soon!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

The AN fittings did not work out. It made the braided line push up against the manifold and there was enough pressure to snap the fitting on the end of the braided line. It went from a drip drip to oil pouring out. Scared the poop out of me. I reused the stock oil feed line when the braided line broke. It is a pain in the butt to get back in, but it was not too bad hooking it up to the turbo. Got my exhaust leak fixed too. 

Turns out the OEM bolts for the 02X are too long for the F23. I improvised until I can get shorter ones. I placed a lock washer below each bolt and torqued them down. Worked like a charm. No more exhaust leak. Now I just have to wait for all the screw loose to evaporate off of things. It was a painnnnn to get the up pipe detached from the exhaust and the 02X.


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

groggory said:


> My grandpa was in racing for many years and always talked about how some motors were just hot engines that outperformed everything else. It's like making a huge batch of something and then picking the one that for some reason just is better and more perfect.


 Truth be told a lot of that diffrence comes from engine break-in.:thumbup:


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Twopnt016v said:


> Truth be told a lot of that diffrence comes from engine break-in.:thumbup:


 Makes sense why formula 1 teams have VERY VERY specific break in procedures for their engines. They need consistency so they can drop a new engine in a blown up race car and have it perform near the same. 

I watched the canada race over the weekend and my jaw always drops.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Just started her up let her idle for 3-5 minutes to warm all the way up and took her out for a couple runs. I did a 1st gear pull, just to see how it would go, up to 300 rpms and a 2nd gear pull up to about 4500 rpm's. I didnt have time to take it out onto the road to do a 3rd gear pull. I have my MBC set to 12 psi right now and it pulled like a mother. That piece of poo 02X that was about to blow up on me is nothing compared to this. 

The only thing I am worried about is that i have quite high 02 corrections at some points, but my lamda seems to be spot on with a knock of -.075 for a split millisecond on decel occuring only once. Pulled back into the garage to check for leaks and low and behold I have a minor oil leak. Maybe a drip every 5-10 minutes but enough to worry me now to drive it until I fix it. I think I am going to have to pull the exhaust mani off when it cools down and torque the oil feed tighter. It looks like that is where it is coming from.


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## rodgertherabit (Apr 16, 2009)

groggory said:


> I watched the canada race over the weekend and my jaw always drops.


 Me Too! I hate when they skip weekends though...:heart: Hope you caught the Friday practice, 3-4 wrecks on Champions corner


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## rodgertherabit (Apr 16, 2009)

BlitzKriegGetta said:


> low and behold I have a minor oil leak. Maybe a drip every 5-10 minutes but enough to worry me now to drive it until I fix it. I think I am going to have to pull the exhaust mani off when it cools down and torque the oil feed tighter. It looks like that is where it is coming from.


 I too have this leak. It was worse, but then I retorqued the feed banjo bold and tossed on new crush washers. Still have a tiny drip. Not sure where its coming from. 

Also, do you mind posting or pming me pics/links to the fittings you used that wouldnt fit?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

They were the fitting sizes on psi concepts website. I looked at their fittings they used and went based off of that. The AN fittings would have worked on the oil filter size, but the top of the 90 degree fitting would hit on the exhaust manifold and you couldn't bolt up the turbo. I than went and bought some AN banjo bolts to hook up to the braided line. It cleared the manifold up and down, but pressed the line against the back part of the manifold enough to break the line. I suppose if you used a AN banjo bolt with a 90 degree that goes toward the driver side of the car it might work, but i just decided to reuse the stock OEM line. After taking the manifold off 3 times trying to fix it I said the heck with it. I got all the AN fittings from Ebay and the braided line from a local place.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Well everything seems to be running awesome so far. I do have a weird sound though. I have a whining sounds that sounds like a low pitched "wuuuuuu" that goes up in pitch as I accelerate. It isn't doing it at idle at all. It is stressing me out trying to figure out what it is. I was thinking a leak of somesort, basically because it has been doing it since the first time I drove the car with the F23 installed. I only hear the lower pitch while cruising, but as soon as I accelerate the pitch goes up. I checked all the lines I took off to install the turbo and they are all on. 

Could it be the forge mbc since it is the bleeder type?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Well i found out something new today. How not to install your manual MBC. lolol..... 

I installed it in series and was wondering why on earth it is not regulating boost. I did not realize it had to run in parrallel. 

Thanks for the info Doug!!!!


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

LOLZ... I bet that helped!:thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I havn't fixed it yet. I have not been using my lead food at all though. I have to wait until I have more time unfortunately. Hopefully sometime this weekend I will be able to tackle it. 

I still have to install my rods I got from INA, AEB head, S4 throttle body and coilovers. I hate not having time to do everything at once. I still need to get a water meth kit as well. Everything is coming along quite nicely. 

I also have a weird whining sound whenever I accelerate, so I think I may have an exhaust leak or some sort ot boost/vaccum leak somewhere. I was thinking it might have been the Forge MBC I installed. It is the bleed style. I have to sit down and figure out where that is coming from first. It is really annoying me. Doulg helped me out with the whining sound as well.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I do have a vaccum leak. I idle anywhere betwee 22hg - 18hg. Idles like pooh anywhere under 20. I am not sure if that is where the whine is coming from. Still trying to track it down. I did do a 3rd gear pull finally yesterday because I thought I was pre-detonating. Most timing pull I have is -3 on cylinder 4.


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## rodgertherabit (Apr 16, 2009)

Yeah, I checked my 02 correction on maestro for the base 550cc file and everything looked great! 

My block 032 was -.56 and -4.69.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

My 02 correction is usually between -3 and -7 under boost and running rich at like .75 - .9 lamda. Timing advance is pretty much spot on with the map. The -3 pull in cylinder #4 came on at about 5000 rpm at about 15 psi of boost. I think because i was about to max out the injectors. The injector pulse was at like 15, which is real close to maxing it out. I know I am not having lean issues under boost or pre-detonating, thank god. That was worrying me. 

Now all I have to do is track down my possible exhaust and vacuum leak and figure out why after driving for 30+ minutes and coming to a stop it idles like pooh. If I turn it off for a few minutes and turn it back on it runs fine. It started up this morning kinda rough, but once it got warmed up it was fine.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Ahh hahhh. I finally found a video that sounds exactly like the whining noise that I have and it is behaving exactly like the video. Once I start to put the gas pedal down even out of boost you hear it and the pitch gets higher as boost builds. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z23Iv8mvHXs


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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

This is actually a rare "turbo noise" video where the sound quality is good enough to hear the issue. 

Here it is embedded. 





 

This sounds like a blown connection in the charge piping. The turbo becomes more audible -- you can hear it whirring -- and your A/Fs get shot to hell.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

It took me hours of searching at work to find this one video that sounds exactly like it. Thanks for the help bro!!!! I really appreciate it. Makes me worry alot less now.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Alrighty, at the request of Doug I am doing a MBC DIY within my build post. I first installed the MBC in series not realizing that it had to be run in parallel. See pic below of improperly installed MBC  










What i did next was take out the MBC from the Charge pipe to N75 line and installed a T-fitting in its place. I connected vacuum line to the T-fitting on the open part and routed it to one side of the MBC. 



















What I did next was cut the vacuum line from the N75 to the waste gate abd inserted a T-fitting into it. The vacuum line on the bottom of the T is the one that is addded to go to the other side of the MBC. 










To finish it up I wire tied the MBC to the T-fitting beetween the charge pipe and N75 so it doesn't flop around and is easy to adjust. 










I connected the line between the N75 and waste gate to the MBC


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I should be getting the rest of my engine stuff from INA soon. Next week or the week after I am getting the paint for my car. I am going with John Deer blitz black with a satin clear for a nice satin black. The F23 is still running good with Maestro. Just need injectors, water meth and fuel pump and the engine should be set.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Just when I thought everything was going good with my build, I sprung a coolant leak. I think it is the water pump leaking, so I gotta it get it done pretty fast. I dont need it going out on me half way to work one day. It is dripping off the rear left corner of the engine if you are looking at it from the front of the car. Unfortunately it is leaking pretty bad.  It is about 5K shy of where I was going to replace the timing belt again. So looks like one day this week I am going to have to dig into it again. Anytime I work on my car something else seems to show itself.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I will be doing the timing belt and water pump tomorrow evening and the next night. However long it takes after work each night. Hopefully this will be the last malfunction so I can drive it without worrying about it.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I started to tear it apart yesterday to verify that it was the water pump. I put water in the overflow tank and it started to pour out from behind it like a faucet. 5K short of when I was going to change it anyways. I guess I am lucky that the pump impeller did not fail on me and let the belt go boom. Will be replacing belt, pump, pulley and tensioner tonight.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Got the old water pump out. The O-ring is not broke, but you can tell why it was leaking. Flat as a pancake. Got everything pretty much back in. Just have to install the tensioner and timing belt, rotate the engine a few times and reinstall everything. It is taking a lot less time than the first time I did it. So far im only about 3 hours total into it, and about 2 hours away from finishing up tonight.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Alright some new news in the mix of things. I am going to get Ford Racing 47lb injectors @4bar as soon as i get the money. I am also going to be getting a set of Status Racing Seats and harness's. I have always loved them, so i will be splurging in the next month. I am hoping by the end of September to be ready to rock and roll. Car is still running excellent with the genesis 380's. I just can't max out the boost still.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Well, the past few months have been hectic and I have not been able to work on my car at all. Should be getting fuel pump and injectors soon. By fall I am ordering Status Racing Seats and a roll cage. I also need to get S4 MAF and S4 Throttle body. Cam chain, valves and INA coil adapters should be coming soon as well.  Lots of work to do soon, but I am looking foward to getting this done!! 

I have to talk to my supervisor over the program, but I am going to try to get into road racing as well as drag racing. So there should be alot of stuff happening next year with my car and Beat the Heat!!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Just got in a nice AEB Head from INA along with their 2.0T coil adapters. Things are going forward again!!!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_68_283

Just noticed that USRT has their direct port injection flex line kit up for sale on their site. $255!!!! I might just have in invest into this.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

New News:

Picked up my INA 2.0T coil adapters. They look friggin awesome. Love INA's products!!! I also picked up another AEB head from INA with valves and springs already installed. I am going to install this one until I get my bare head ported and polished and when I come up with the money for a Ferrea valve train. I am hoping to get a set of cams for my bare head as well.

Now I need to find a place in metro atlanta that makes NHRA Legal roll cages.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Update:

Installed INA Engineering 2.0T coil adapters and Boostvalve G2 MBC today!!!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I got in a SPEC Stage 2+ clutch and steel flywheel setup. I am getting an ST Coilover setup from Eurotech Performance Group in Marietta, GA. Still need to get LSD, brake setup, performance intake manifold, sway bars, racing wheels with slicks, better intercooler, injectors, racing seats and roll cage.

This is not to mention paint, department decals and emergency lights. This car WILL be at Southern Worthersee next year. So if you see a jetta with flashing blue lights, its me.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I want to take the time to thank all of the companies who have helped and supported me with this project so far. By supporting the Beat the Heat Program in Gwinnett County it shows that these companies are concerned about the safety of our children in our communities. I could not have accomplished what I have done so far without your help!! 

I look foward to working with each of you in the future to help fight illegal street racing, alcohol and drugs in our local communities!!

*Thank you again!!!

INA Engineering
Frankenturbo
SPEC Clutch
Eurotech Performance Group*


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Just got done deciding that i am going to be getting a Peloquin Differential. Nothing like supporting a company that is local to the area you live in!! Gary is a heck of a nice guy!!!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Tuesday I am going to be ordering my Injector Dynamics 725cc injectors. I am going to be trying to push this turbo to its limits for the program!! 

*Thanks to Injector Dynamics for the help!!*


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Update on what is to come within the next 3 weeks:

1. Stasis big brake kit and possibly wheels: 356mm
2. Peloquin LSD: 02M
3. Status Racing Seats and Harnesses: Black Standard Ring Seat and 4 point Harness
4. Plastic Dip Matte Black: I am going this route since it looks nice and can be taken off down the road so I don't ruin my Blue Lagoon.

*Thanks to Stasis Engineering and Status Racing!!!*


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Ordering all of my Stasis stuff tomorrow!!! I cannot wait to get it. Probably next week I am going to drive up to Athens and get my LSD from Gary(Peloquin). I will post up pics as soon as I get this stuff. It is going to be sick!!!


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

Post some pics when you do :thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Hoosier Slicks came in today. 235/35/19. 
I ordered my S4 throttle body and MAF. 
I am picking up my Peloquin LSD this week or next.


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## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

:thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Will also be ordering my INA Engineering in-tank fuel pump this week as well!! I can't wait to get that in there with those ID725's.


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## Veran (Jun 19, 2012)

Good Luck mate. 
I've build my with k04-023 oem turbo, got 260hp with 22psi of boostpeak and 16 tops.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am shooting for above 300 with the F23. Ultimately I want above 320, but we will see how things fall.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Plasic Dip and S4 MAF came in yesterday. Brakes, tires, S4 Throttle body and wheels should be in today.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Not related to the engine, but it is part of me getting ready to race Beat the Heat build!!!

Stasis 355mm brakes!!










Nice new 19x9 Rims and my tires!!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am ditching the Greddy FMIC and going with a Eurojet SMIC along with their charge pipe kit. Though I will have to use my Pro-Imports upper charge pipe that I have had laying around forever.


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## 2.0t mk2 (Dec 23, 2007)

nice... where at in GA are you located?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Near Lawrenceville.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I will have some more pictures up Tuesday of everything else I have received lately.
Eurojet SMIC w/ chrage pipe kit
Injector Dynamics 725cc injectors
Peloquin 02M LSD
S4 MAF
S4 Throttle body

I am also getting next week:
INA Engineering in tank fuel pump
crank bearings and push washers
piston rings
rear main and front crank oil seal
ARP fly wheel bolts
Eurospec dual smic setup (unsure what intake I want to get right now)
Relentless exhaust manifold
Martindale cams

While I am at it, I want to tell everyone again what Beat the Heat is. It is a non-profit educational racing program that is comprised of law enforcement and fire fighters. We build cars to look like real emergency vehicles. Meaning my car will have emblems, real emergency lights and siren to make it look like a real cop car. We go to local schools, race at local tracks and attend shows to educate kids about illegal street racing, texting while driving, drugs and alcohol. Our goal is to get as many kids to stop street racing as we can and get them onto the track where it is more fun and safer. Though the program is affiliated with law enforcement, no tax dollars are used. All the cars are built through donations or sponsorships or our own money.

http://www.bthgwinnett.org

I would like to take the time to thank the following companies for helping me get ready to *"Race for Education."* 

*INA Engineering
Eurotech Performance Group
Frankenturbo
Stasis Engineering
Eurojet Racing
Injector Dynamics
SPEC Clutch
Status Racing
Peloquins LSD*

Remember if you think you can beat the heat, take it to the track.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Deleting AC with: Serpentine Belt without A/C (OEM) (06A145933D). Gotta clean up the engine bay a little bit more.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Will be updating pictures after the holiday with some really nice goodies!! Also in about 2 weeks, the build will begin at Eurotech Performance Group!! Props to them for helping me out with the installation. Brian, the owner, is a heck of a nice guy!!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Once again I would like to thank Doug, from Frankenturbo, for coming through for Beat the Heat!! He is getting me setup with a set of Martindale Cams to run with my F23 setup. XS-Power is also stepping up to the plate and setting me up with a tubular exhaust manifold for my setup. 

Issam from INA Engineering is helping Gwinnett Beat the Heat yet again with one of his new in tank fuel pumps along with Crank bearings and push washers, cam chain for my AEB head, ARP flywheel bolts and piston rings. Issam has been nothing but supportive of our program!!

*Thank you guys for being there for Gwinnett Beat the Heat!!!* Everything you do for us will be used to help fight street racing and is greatly appreciated!!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am adding quite a few pictures tonight. I went out to the garage and snapped some pics of things to come starting next week. Enjoy the goodies!!

SPEC Clutch Stage 2+ Clutch with lightened steel flywheel










Frankenturbo Phatty TIP with Divertinator and S4 MAF










INA Engineering/DM Forged Rods










Frankenturbo Martindal Cams (had enough time to get a pic of one)










Peloquins 02M LSD










Injector Dynamics 725cc Injectors










INA Engineering TB Adapter with S4 Throttle Body










Eurojet SMIC with Pro-Imports Charge Pipe and Eurojet Charge Pipe Replacement










1 of my AEB heads (this one courtesy of INA) the other one I am going to be building into a high rpm machine!!



















Tranny Fluid and Brake lines/fluid


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## VWBugman00 (Mar 17, 2009)

I definitely like what you're doing here. This car will definitely be a fun drive. I have to know though, why are you drag racing with 19" wheels? That is a lot of unsprung weight. With those slicks, and that big wheel, I can see you breaking a lot of drive shafts. Why not go with something super light, like the Enkei RPF1 wheel and a slick? You'll get great traction, and improve your times for both drag and road course. 

The 16 weighs 13.7, 17 weighs 15.5, and the 18 weighs 17.8.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I went with the 19's because it is all Stasis makes and they wanted to help the program out. I have to admit I did think about the size of the wheel being a factor, but I said eh we'll see how it goes. They weigh a lot less then my Audi A8 Replicas. I couldn't pass up the help they offered me and my car in this program.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Relentless V3 manifold came in today. It looks awesome and I cannot wait to get it in. Thanks to Frankenturbo and Relentless Tuning/ XS-Power!!!!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Ordered my USP Motorsports Race Exhaust and a battery relocation kit from PMEngineering. Thanks for the help guys!!! This Tuesday I start to tear her down. I am going to relocate the battery first and get the engine apart.

I thought long and hard about putting a stroker kit in the engine this year, but with my time restraints, I just do not have the time. So by next year this time I am planning on making my car a 2.1L INA/Frankenturbo powered Drag Queen!!


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Could you post a link to that battery relocation kit?

I wanna see how it compares to the verdict motorsports one


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-kits-with-quality-and-safety-in-mind-ON-SALE

I found it on here and contacted Pat. Real nice guy. I should have it this week sometime. I will take some pics to share with everyone.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Today I started to take everything apart. I got all the intercooler pipes removed, took off the k04-02X TIP, removed the 225 MAF and filter and removed the catch can lines. Things I noticed is that my catch can was not doing the best job at keeping oil from the TIP. The catch can lines were NASTY too!!!! I still have alot of work ahead of me, but that was a good start on a cold day in Georgia.

I will be selling quite a bit of stuff off of the car as it sits, but it will be local pickup to my area.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Some pictures from the beginning of the end. The tear down.



















Yucky!!!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I just got some real good news this morning for Beat the heat. Sound Off Signal has made a verbal committment to donate blue lights for the Jetta and from what I understand they are going to put them *everywhere*. Rear window (bottom and top), front window (top), front grill, lower valence, side markers and rear side windows. Gotta give props. I was not expecting this at all. 

http://www.soundoffsignal.com/


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## B5Bombers (Aug 20, 2008)

what makes this a drag build? and what do you mean by "DRAG" :facepalm:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am going to be drag racing it with Beat the Heat.

Non-profit educational drag racing program.


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Beat the Heat said:


> I am going to be drag racing it with Beat the Heat.
> 
> Non-profit educational drag racing program.


Cool project, can't wait to see the results!:wave::beer:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I can't either. This has been a long process of getting everything together and FINALLY starting to work on the engine.


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

Is eurotech going to tune this project or are you going with a base tune and altering yourself?


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Interesting project:beer:


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Eurotech = change parts only:thumbdown:

cool project btw!! 
let me know if I can help in anyway ... I'm in Woodstock and also doing a build :beer:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Eurotech is installing the LSD, putting my AEB head together and putting in the suspension. Everything else I am doing in my driveway and garage. When the car is done, the first race I will be at is at the Atlanta Dragway for a GA Beat the Heat versus FL Beat the Heat drag day. I will post the date at a later time.


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Beat the Heat said:


> Eurotech is installing the LSD, putting my AEB head together and putting in the suspension. Everything else I am doing in my driveway and garage. When the car is done, the first race I will be at is at the Atlanta Dragway for a GA Beat the Heat versus FL Beat the Heat drag day. I will post the date at a later time.


I'm in !!:thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Software wise, I am running Eurodyne Maestro and will be tuning it myself.


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

Beat the Heat said:


> Software wise, I am running Eurodyne Maestro and will be tuning it myself.


That's what I was getting at...


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Hopefully I will be able to get some nice power out of it. I am looking forward to getting it done and onto the track and dyno.


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## nugsgti23 (Nov 21, 2008)

Pretty cool build! Im just now finishing up my gt28r build with ie rods, stock head though, we ported the atp exhaust manifold and exhaust side of the turbo. Im hoping to make around 320 at 24 psi.


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## nugsgti23 (Nov 21, 2008)

You should bring it up to the kennesaw meet once u get done with it. I live up in acworth.


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## 3WheelnGTi (Jan 19, 2008)

opcorn:


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## 2.0t mk2 (Dec 23, 2007)

nugsgti23 said:


> You should bring it up to the kennesaw meet once u get done with it. I live up in acworth.


in 30min from Kennesaw you talking about the Rays pizza meet?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I wish I could, but due to the emergency lights, law enforcement emblems and drag slicks it won't be street legal at allllll.


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

nugsgti23 said:


> You should bring it up to the kennesaw meet once u get done with it. I live up in acworth.





2.0t mk2 said:


> in 30min from Kennesaw you talking about the Rays pizza meet?


im in woodstock !!:wave:

also finishing my build .. holset hx27 turbo :beer::beer:

wheres


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Ok, back on topic. Does anyone know of a place in the gwinnett area that has a dyno? I want to find one, but I do not know where to go.


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## 2.0t mk2 (Dec 23, 2007)

I know of one in dallas but thats at least an hour+ from you


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

You can use Dyno Lab, Battle Ground Engineering or Forged Performance. These are all in Marietta but hell if your willing to use Eurotech to do your work you should be willing to use one of these dynos in the same area..


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I just didn't know of any in the metro area. I do not venture too far out around atlanta too much. I heard there is one right in lawrenceville called dyno-proven llc though.

Eurotech has been awesome for me though. Brian, his crew and I went out to lunch to talk about the program one day. Heck of a nice guy!!


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## nugsgti23 (Nov 21, 2008)

Yeah rays every Thursday night around 8 , I haven't been in a while cause my car has been down


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

nugsgti23 said:


> Pretty cool build! Im just now finishing up my gt28r build with ie rods, stock head though, we ported the atp exhaust manifold and exhaust side of the turbo. Im hoping to make around 320 at 24 psi.


who's doing your tuning? and if you need any custom fab .Morris at Midnight auto will fabricate anything :thumbup:

my entire build is custom! ! on another note,I will need a dyno too .

who is in Dallas?


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## nugsgti23 (Nov 21, 2008)

Gonzo tuning, ive heard that buckhead imports could tune your car. They do tons of german cars


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## 2.0t mk2 (Dec 23, 2007)

BR_337 said:


> who's doing your tuning? and if you need any custom fab .Morris at Midnight auto will fabricate anything :thumbup:
> 
> my entire build is custom! ! on another note,I will need a dyno too .
> 
> who is in Dallas?


im in dallas and most of the guys around here use Mainstreem the usually do hondas but will do anything to anything


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## Gonzzz (Apr 27, 2010)

nugsgti23 said:


> Gonzo tuning, ive heard that buckhead imports could tune your car. They do tons of german cars


You won't be dissapointed


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Some more goodies that came in: 

USP Downpipe with race exhaust. 
*Thanks to Jeff and USP Motorsports for supporting Beat the Heat!!* 










42 Draft Designs Spacers/Adapters. 
*Thanks to John and 42 Draft Designes for supporting Beat the Heat!!* 










Updates on what I tore apart today. Removed intake manifold and put the injector Dynamics 725cc injectors in. Removed Greddy FMIC.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Just got done taking the alternator out and removing the air conditioning compressor. It took a while to bleed everything out of it. When I thought I was done bleeding it, I removed the one line on the compressor and Poof the line blew off. Scared the poop out of me!! Tomorrow i will finish taking out the AC lines and condensor.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I worked on the car a little today. I got all of the AC lines on the passenger side of the car removed.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Added the car to the 20v build thread. 

Would you mind filling this out for me? 

* Chassis: 
* Turbo: 
* Displacement: 
* Software: 
* Injectors: 
* Exhaust Manifold: 
* Intake Manifold: 
* Cams: 
* Purpose:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I sent it to you via PM on here.


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## hxcdubbin239 (Feb 19, 2007)

Sweet looking good rich!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Thanks man!! I can't wait to get the Transmission and AEB head to you guys to get my LSD and cams in. The ST's are gonna be a nice addition from Eurotech as well.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Tomorrow I am getting the car prepped to take the transmission out. Taking out the axles, starter, front suspension, brakes and calipers. Later this week my buddy is going to help me yank it out and off it goes to Eurotech Performance Group in Marietta for the installation of the limited slip differential along with the head to get my RS4 type Martindale cams from Frankenturbo installed!!! Man I cannot wait to get this thing running!!!!!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I finish getting the rest of the AC system taken out today. It is NO MORE!!!! Having it out really opens up the engine bay alot, but what a pain it was to get out. Next I am ready to take out the transmission when my buddy comes over later in the week!!










Took out the Starter, unbolted the axles and disconnected the transmissions linkage.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Removed my raxle axles and removed the oem gli brakes, which are being replaced with Stasis 355mm brakes.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Forgot about pictures!!!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Well I did not get the transmission out today, yet again due to some issues at work I had to help with. It will have to wait until next week now. When I got home I removed the OEM TT225 exhaust manifold and removed the GHL exhaust. I am going to remove the head tomorrow or the day after and get everything stripped down as much as I can in anticipation of doing the rods as soon as the transmission comes back from Eurotech.


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## 3WheelnGTi (Jan 19, 2008)

:thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

On this weeks to do list:

Remove Transmission and clean
Remove AWP Head
Take Transmissions and Head to Eurotech Performance Group to get cams and LSD installed.
Pickup ST Suspension from Eurotech Performance Group
Install SPEC Stage 2+ Clutch and steel flywheel

God I am hoping the weather holds up for me. This rain they are predicting is going to put a damper on my current ETA. Crossing my fingers!!!!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Well the weather sucks today. Rain rain go away!!!! I got out for a few minutes and removed my BFI dogbone mount and loosened the mount bolts a little and placed a jack under the engine for support until I get the transmission out tomorrow. All that needs to happen now is remove mount bolts, remove remaining bell housing bolts and take it out. 

This is the unfortunate part of having to work in my driveway because the wife wants the garage for her "new" car. Gotta learn to give and take to be able to enjoy my hobby.


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## BolideVW (Aug 11, 2011)

Beat the meat...ugh I mean...heat. Lol top gear. 
Looks good though, keep up the good work!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

After a drenching 1.5 hours out in the rain, I finally got the transmission out. What a pain in the butt it was. Next time I am dropping the sub-frame. The transmission just kept getting stuck on the sub-frame for about 40 minutes. I finally got a pry bar between the frame and tranny and was able to pull up on it and push it forward past where it was hanging up. I was really worried i was going to messup the input shaft, but all looks well. Just have to clean it up and take it up to Marietta tomorrow along with the head. 

GLAD THAT IS OVER!!!!! Def a 2 man job, which I was impatient about.


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

Beat the Heat said:


> After a drenching 1.5 hours out in the rain, I finally got the transmission out. What a pain in the butt it was. Next time I am dropping the sub-frame. The transmission just kept getting stuck on the sub-frame for about 40 minutes. I finally got a pry bar between the frame and tranny and was able to pull up on it and push it forward past where it was hanging up. I was really worried i was going to messup the input shaft, but all looks well. Just have to clean it up and take it up to Marietta tomorrow along with the head.
> 
> GLAD THAT IS OVER!!!!! Def a 2 man job, which I was impatient about.


Yeah, the 02J's are easy, for 02M's I always just drop the sub-frame. 
I need to run logs but that's not happening with the rain we're getting. :thumbdown:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I hear ya!! It was either get it done today when it wasn't too bad or wait and do it in the morning and chance it. Glad that I got it done today. Now tomorrow I just need to get up to Marietta along with my AEB head.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

:thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Some pics from the aftermath of me taking out the transmission:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Waiting on my rear main seal to come in this week and will be installing the clutch/flywheel. As soon as the transmission and AEB Head come back from Eurotech Performance, I will be taking my AWP head off, installing the DM Forged Rods (from INA) and installing the AEB head (with the martindale cams from Frankenturbo) with my XS-Power exhaust manifold.

Hopefully the transmission will go in a little easier than it came out. Brian from Eurotech told me he will leave the axle cups removed from the tranny to make it easier for me to reinstall it.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I have some spare time between things right now to think of what else I could delete that took up space in the engine bay that was not needed to race. I got to thinking and said hmmm......I really do not need the heater. 

After talking to Mike P on here I found out what I needed to delete the heater core and all of its hard lines. OEM Audi A4 plug for the block and a rubber oem plug for the flange. This way I can get the pain in the butt coolant hard line that always gets in my way when I put the TIP on the F23. 

Mike P thanks for the help!! It is greatly appreciated.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am waiting on some stuff to come before doing more work, so I decided to intall my brakes, spacers and test fit the wheels.























































At first i got scared that they would not fit, but I have about 1/2" of space between the rim and the shock with a 30mm spacer. WHEW!!!!!


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## Mike Pauciullo (Jan 8, 2009)

Beat the Heat said:


> I have some spare time between things right now to think of what else I could delete that took up space in the engine bay that was not needed to race. I got to thinking and said hmmm......I really do not need the heater.
> 
> After talking to Mike P on here I found out what I needed to delete the heater core and all of its hard lines. OEM Audi A4 plug for the block and a rubber oem plug for the flange. This way I can get the pain in the butt coolant hard line that always gets in my way when I put the TIP on the F23.
> 
> Mike P thanks for the help!! It is greatly appreciated.


Not a problem at all! Sorry for the short emails back to you I was on the road running around. I don't have the time to read the complete thread but are you going to run slicks?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Yes, this is going to be track only. can't run it on the street with emergency lights and sheriff's emblems. I would get into some trouble. lol


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## Mike Pauciullo (Jan 8, 2009)

what size slicks?


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## dstavros (Oct 18, 2010)

Mike Pauciullo said:


> what size slicks?



235/35 19 page 2 or 3


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

you need more tyre and less flashy wheel

that side wall size is not for a track car. 16/17" wheel with real slicks.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

btw those look like road course slicks, and yes there is a difference between drag slicks and road course slicks

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

I'm not understanding the big wheels, and big brakes on a drag car. Plus the fiberglass nose, with an f23 turbo?

There is a lot of money being spent not so wisely for a drag car project. The money wasted on big brakes, fiberglass nose, and big wheels would just about augment the price difference between an f23 setup, and a real BT setup.

Just sayin..


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## dstavros (Oct 18, 2010)

He said its an educational vehicle and the parts are donated


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I realized after i got those tires, that they were for a road course. I will still see how they fare though. lol 

I have alot of companies that have taken the time to help me out with this project and I am greatful for every one of them. I know some people on here will not understand my whole concept behind this and may think it is rediculous. I honestly can say, this car will not be fast as the majority of the drag cars out there. That is a give in. 

Our team is going out to shows, the track and schools to educate kids and get them off the street and onto the track where they should race. We also educate about drugs, alcohol and texting while driving. Our Beat the Heat chapter in Gwinnett has a Suzuki GXR1000 running sub 9's, a chevy Impala running 12's and a Ford mustang which should run 10's. I thought the program needed something different. What is more different then a European 4 cylinder turbo going out against some sick muscle. My car hopefully will run low 13's or high 12's when i get it tuned properly with maestro.

Please though to get a better understanding of what I am doing go to our website and check it out.

www.bthgwinnett.org


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## RodgertheRabit II (Sep 13, 2012)

Bump for a fun cause! 

Saw a clip of BeattheHeat on HorsepowerTV over the weekend :thumbup:


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

dstavros said:


> He said its an educational vehicle and the parts are donated


Ahh, nevermind my comment then. Still a cool project regardless. :beer:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

It's all good. Where else can you legally race a cop though. 

I am coming to waterfest in 2014. I cannot this year unfortunately.


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## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

Bump for an awesome cause. :thumbup:


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## Mike Pauciullo (Jan 8, 2009)

Beat the Heat said:


> It's all good. Where else can you legally race a cop though.
> 
> I am coming to waterfest in 2014. I cannot this year unfortunately.


 I would try and make it this year. We are sponsoring the Saturday NIGHT race and the Sunday outlaw and all motor class. :thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I will see what I can do. I have 15 or so events I am going to down here this year as well as schools in the area. I will do my best. My car would sure look sick at the night race. All my emergency lights are going to be led's. Bright as heck!!!! 

I am getting my light housing and lens from Rodger Retrofits so I can install emergency strobes in there to replace the actual lights. 

I will be getting a few more items next week for the engine. Not telling what yet. Going to be a surprise.


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## Mike Pauciullo (Jan 8, 2009)

It is good to see people doing the right thing trying to keep teenagers off of the streets and on to the tracks!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Before I started in law enforcement I did not know how bad street racing was in Atlanta and its metro areas. Kids just do not care that they could possibly die, kill someone else or go to jail. Many of the kids, it just seems like they do not care. Unfortunately movies do not help the cause either. Texting while driving is just as bad. There was a teen killed last year down here because someone thought it was more important to send a text then pay attention to the road. It is real sad.

So listen up guys, if you think you got a mean street car and you think you can beat the heat, take it to the track!!!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Teaser hint: 2.0L 

I couldn't keep it in.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> Teaser hint: 2.0L
> 
> I couldn't keep it in.


:beer:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Also being purchased by the end of this week. Check these bad boys out from Kirkey Racing!!!

Kirkey Racing Pro-Street Drag Seats


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Wish they would this locally. There is an old airstrip down in quonset, but useless politicians dont help.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Everywhere we go we bring in a big crowd of Mustang and big block owners. My goal is to bring in a big crowd of vw/audi owners when I start to race my car.


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## stevemannn (Apr 17, 2008)

i saw this on the UK top gear last week. jeremy kept calling it beat the meat haha.
was pretty cool though. those cops,and fire fighters bring out some sick cars :thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

The best part is that no tax dollars are used. We build the cars ourselves with our own money or from donations. My wife has banned me from buying anymore stuff. lol I have to use money from parts that I am selling.


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## Mike Pauciullo (Jan 8, 2009)

Sell them fancy brakes and put stock ones back on.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

No can do. I know that big fancy brakes and wheels aren't the typical drag setup, but Stasis Engineering has really supported this program along with all my other sponsors. I won't do that to someone who has whole heartedly supported me.


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Beat the Heat said:


> Before I started in law enforcement I did not know how bad street racing was in Atlanta and its metro areas. Kids just do not care that they could possibly die, kill someone else or go to jail. Many of the kids, it just seems like they do not care. Unfortunately movies do not help the cause either. Texting while driving is just as bad. There was a teen killed last year down here because someone thought it was more important to send a text then pay attention to the road. It is real sad.
> 
> So listen up guys, if you think you got a mean street car and you think you can beat the heat, take it to the track!!!


Awesome cause!:thumbup:

Here in NOVA we have several undercover state police diving around in decked out Japanese cars and newer muscle egging people on to street race. Only ones I've personally seen are an Integra (which was insanely fast, I watched him arrest some fool) and a Silver Mustang Cobra that got nicknamed the Grey Ghost (because of our location, John Mosby). Don't know if they still do this anymore but it was always amusing seeing the occasional riced out Honda pulled by these guys.:laugh:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

It will be even more awesome when I get it done. I am unveiling it at SOWO this year with Eurotech Performance Group.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Good news!! I found an AEG crank and a shop that can bore and hone my block!! I am working on getting an awp block that I can just send to the shop and put the stroker kit in and swap it out with the one in right now. UH OH...... I just gave away my secret!!!


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

Beat the Heat said:


> Good news!! I found an AEG crank and a shop that can bore and hone my block!! I am working on getting an awp block that I can just send to the shop and put the stroker kit in and swap it out with the one in right now. UH OH...... I just gave away my secret!!!


What shop?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Eagle Automotive Machine Shop in Auburn, Ga.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

DMVDUB said:


> Awesome cause!:thumbup:
> 
> Here in NOVA we have several undercover state police diving around in decked out Japanese cars and newer muscle egging people on to street race. Only ones I've personally seen are an Integra (which was insanely fast, I watched him arrest some fool) and a Silver Mustang Cobra that got nicknamed the Grey Ghost (because of our location, John Mosby). Don't know if they still do this anymore but it was always amusing seeing the occasional riced out Honda pulled by these guys.:laugh:


I completely disagree with this police practice :thumbdown:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I agree with you there. Try to catch the street racing while it is happening or like we do, put in a concerted effort to prevent it before it happens. Practice like that can get someone hurt or killed and that would be on the officer. I am in law enforcement and I know down here, we would not do something like that.


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Beat the Heat said:


> I agree with you there. Try to catch the street racing while it is happening or like we do, put in a concerted effort to prevent it before it happens. Practice like that can get someone hurt or killed and that would be on the officer. I am in law enforcement and I know down here, we would not do something like that.


I'm guessing there were some liability or legality issues because the "Grey Ghost" and a worked Trans Am they used now make track appearances in full police uniform for a similar cause to yours. I always thought it was reckless and irresponsible of the police, but they used the excuse, "we're trying to take a stand on all the people who were injured and killed from illegal street racing". 

It got REALLY bad in Northern VA and Maryland throughout the 00's and especially after the F&F movies everyone with a honda immediately became Vin Diesel.:banghead:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

DMVDUB said:


> I'm guessing there were some liability or legality issues because the "Grey Ghost" and a worked Trans Am they used now make track appearances in full police uniform for a similar cause to yours. I always thought it was reckless and irresponsible of the police, but they used the excuse, "we're trying to take a stand on all the people who were injured and killed from illegal street racing".
> 
> It got REALLY bad in Northern VA and Maryland throughout the 00's and especially after the F&F movies everyone with a honda immediately became Vin Diesel.:banghead:


if you only knew how bad it was, but not as bad as most othe rplaces..most of us would go up to philly to street race, or go south and do massive highway pulls on 95S/17W etc.


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Vegeta Gti said:


> if you only knew how bad it was, but not as bad as most othe rplaces..most of us would go up to philly to street race, or go south and do massive highway pulls on 95S/17W etc.


Veg' I'm pretty aware  Been living here 32 years and have been in the car gtg and not proud to say the race scene scene since 1997 (not street racing anymore or really doing meets...Just shows and tracks for the most part now) so I've seen my fair share. 

We used to meet in Fair Lakes and Springfield back in the day and hit 7100 as well as Montgomery Co, MD (for the most part) which is still really bad in the street race scene.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

I gravitated towards both the Philadelphia, and Newark New Jersey street racing scenes between 95' and 04'.

In the 90's the police pretty much just let **** happen. They'd show up, and flash their lights, toggle their sirens, and chase everyone away. No tickets, or warnings given. I remember a few times in Newark that the cops showed up, and just hung out for a few passes before they made everyone leave. It was different back then. It was REAL car guys; who were serious, and knew how to drive. 

The first 'Fast and Furious' movie changed everything. Literally the day after that movie came out; every kid with an import thought he had a 'race car'. It got ridiculous, people started getting killed, and it was all over.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

All these stories from you guys is why I am involved in Beat the Heat. If you have a car and think its got a set. Take it to the track and prove it their. Not out on the highway where you could kill someones baby, the passenger in your car, a pedestrian or YOURSELF. All because you think its cool. Tell me how cool it is to be put in the back of a squad car and taken to jail for vehicular homicide all because you wanted to prove something to the car next to you. 

Back to build thread stuff. 
Within the month my 1.8 will be a stroked 2.0L. Mahle Pistons from INA, DM Forged Rods and an AEG Crank.

Tranny and head should be done next week. Installed with my Peloquins LSD and Frankenturbo Martindale Cams. I am sending my F23 out Tuesday to get the hot side ported.

I will be picking up my block and crank from Jeff Bynum hopefully the week after that. After that the block will be going to the shop to get bored out to 83mm to make room for those Mahle pistons. 

*Issam(INA Engineering), Greg(DM Forged), Doug(Frankenturbo) and Brian(Eurotech Performance Group) thanks for the help!!!!!!! These companies here deserve props for believing in this program and making this build happen for me!!!*


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

DMVDUB said:


> Veg' I'm pretty aware  Been living here 32 years and have been in the car gtg and not proud to say the race scene scene since 1997 (not street racing anymore or really doing meets...Just shows and tracks for the most part now) so I've seen my fair share.
> 
> We used to meet in Fair Lakes and Springfield back in the day and hit 7100 as well as Montgomery Co, MD (for the most part) which is still really bad in the street race scene.


oh i know where all the meets were...i only left 5 years ago


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

*SEM and INA helping out again!!!!* 

SEM large port intake manifold and 70mm throttle body w/adapter coming my way!!!!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

One more thing.

I am ordering ffe front end this week to finish off everything I need for the build along with the kirkey racing seats. After this, it is a matter of getting my new block picked up, dismantling it and getting it to the machine shop to be bored/honed. Then it is time to put it back together and tune it.  This build keeps getting better and I cannot wait to finish it up with its unveiling at Southern Worthersee.

INA/DM Forged Stroked Frankenturbo F23 sounds so nice with ID725's!!!!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

F23 is all packaged up and ready to go get ported on its hot side. 

BsaintMedia is also going to be doing a feature on my car for their next dvd at Southern Worthersee. This will be awesome for the program to get our word out.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Got pricing from the Eagle Automotive Machine Shop in Auburn, GA.

$28 per cylinder bore/hone
$75 for cleaning

Not too shabby and they do excellent work.  You know what this means!!! Stroker here I come!!!!


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

You do realize with that turbo and wheel setup you will be lucky to run lower than a 13.xx right? For all the money invested in a "drag car" I don't see how it makes any sense to run a hybrid K series turbo on a stroked motor. It's not going to make power past 6k rpm after the stroker kit


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I realize that. I am making this build for educating kids, not to go out and make as much power as I can and woop everyone's butts. lol The majority of our time is spent at schools and events talking to kids and their family's about the program. Our cars draw a lot of attention at events and people love to talk about the program with us. Drag racing is an important aspect of it, but not the whole program if you understand that I am saying.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am starting to think how I am going to run my fuel line setup. I am getting INA Engineering's new in tank fuel pump with ID725's. I do not know if I want to stick with the oem fuel lines or take it all out and do a custom AN fuel line setup. Hmmmm.....


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Stock lines are more than enough. Spend the money elsewhere; UNLESS you plan on possibly fitting an gt35+ at some point.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Rod Ratio is right on an F23 there is no need for anything more than what you already have


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I was thinking that, but wasn't sure. On a good note, Monday I am picking up my AEG crank and spare awp block for the stroker kit. Should be taking it over to shop by the end of the week for boring and magnafluxing the crank. They told me that they should have it done in a few days after I drop it off.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> I was thinking that, but wasn't sure. On a good note, Monday I am picking up my AEG crank and spare awp block for the stroker kit. Should be taking it over to shop by the end of the week for boring and magnafluxing the crank. They told me that they should have it done in a few days after I drop it off.


What pistons are you using?


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## Gonzzz (Apr 27, 2010)

Stroker kit will not net you any gains here... Just saying...


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

JohnnyLlama said:


> Stroker kit will not net you any gains here... Just saying...


Well, that's not entirely true man. Adding displacement always helps make more power. It's just 'how' beneficial will it be?


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## Gonzzz (Apr 27, 2010)

Rod Ratio said:


> Well, that's not entirely true man. Adding displacement always helps make more power. It's just 'how' beneficial will it be?


Look at Doug's thread... Adding more displacement simply strains this small turbo up top, piling up IAT's.

Even if you were to get any gains, dollar/hp ratio leaves a lot to be desired. Specially when you could just run E85 and or invest in better cooling and do a LOT more.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am running Mahle Power Pack 83mm 9:5:1 pistons with an AEG crank. Right now I am getting the hotside of the turbo ported as well. I think in the end most people will be surprised on the power output. 

My main concern is educating kids and getting them to stop street racing. I cannot emphasize that enough.  This will be my common theme when it is all said and done.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> I am running Mahle Power Pack 83mm 9:5:1 pistons with an AEG crank. Right now I am getting the hotside of the turbo ported as well. I think in the end most people will be surprised on the power output.
> 
> My main concern is educating kids and getting them to stop street racing. I cannot emphasize that enough.  This will be my common theme when it is all said and done.


Good choice in piston:beer:

As far as the comments, suggestions, and criticism goes; Welcome to the 1.8T forum


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Those were the pistons Issam recommended along with DM Forged Rods. He has been a life saver and has heped the program out tremendously along with Doug from Frankenturbo. Two awesome guys in my honest opinion!!! I am going to try to do a stroker DIY when the block comes back from the shop.

Lol. Thanks. I have been aroud for quite some time. Normally I do not post since I can search and find most answers in the search function. I really hope to be able to meet alot of you through the program when I attend shows and races.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Not build related, but we went to a church last night for a wild game dinner to get the word out about our cause.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> Not build related, but we went to a church last night for a wild game dinner to get the word out about our cause.


Which dude are you?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

2nd from the left.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> 2nd from the left.


Damn.. I guessed second from the right


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

2nd from the right is Cpl. Ozaluck. That is his mustang. To his right is Sergeant Welch, who has a gsxr1000 who is running sub 9's. First on the left is Captain Woods, who drives the Impala in the back ground.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Love the fox body :heart:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

The car is sick!!

The crank bolt is becoming a real pain in the butt to get off. WOW!!! I have a 3 foot breaker bar and I cannot get it off. Tomorrow is another day for that stuff!!!


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> The car is sick!!
> 
> The crank bolt is becoming a real pain in the butt to get off. WOW!!! I have a 3 foot breaker bar and I cannot get it off. Tomorrow is another day for that stuff!!!


What block is he running?


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Beat the Heat said:


> The car is sick!!
> 
> The crank bolt is becoming a real pain in the butt to get off. WOW!!! I have a 3 foot breaker bar and I cannot get it off. Tomorrow is another day for that stuff!!!


They make special tools for that.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

He is running a Ford 306 block with a whole lot of goodies. Here is a link to what all he has:

Just scroll down to find his car

http://www.bthgwinnett.org/bth_002.htm

I got the crank bolt off of the awp crank finally. Just took a little more ooomph. Unfortunately I do not have the gear lockout tool to get the bolt off. I will make sure I get one or make one when I put it back together.

Here is what I did today. I drove out to Eurotech Performance to meet Jeff Bynum of Bynum builds. Heck of a nice guy. I traded him some stuff for an awp block and aeg block. I tore apart the awp this afternoon.

AWP Block










AEG Block










Stock Pistons removed. First thing I noticed was the oil pickup was clogged so I got worried that it got starved and stuff was messed up. I could not see any scoring anywhere.










Getting ready to tear it all apart now. 










Main caps removed in order and kept in order and notated which what direction they were facing.










Say bye bye AWP Crank!!!










1 bare AWP Block ready to go to the machine shop for cleaning and boring to 83mm to make room for my Mahle Power Pak Pistons....










AWP Pistons and rods you will not be missed!!!










Tomorrow I will be taking the AEG crank out of that other block.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Tore apart the AEG Block today and got the crank out. Only took an hour this time. Haha!!!

The pistons of the AEG were in awesome shape.










Even on the inside of the block was in awesome shape, but I am just using the crank, which looked fantastic. I am still going to have it magnafluxed at the shop though.










Block and crank ready to rock and head to the machine shop tomorrow!!!!










Turn around on the block and crank should be next week sometime. Until then I am going to take the block/head out of the GLI and get ready to start swapping stuff over to reinstall when it comes back.


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## RodgertheRabit II (Sep 13, 2012)

Good move on getting spare blocks! I shoulda did that the 1st time around and now Im debating waht I want to do now. Probably just end up dropping the IEs in and Cams and calling it a day or else Id be building a stroker. So temping:banghead:

That hanes box looks familiar:sly:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Hahah, thats because its your hanes box with some GTI headlight housings and lenses. I got a gti grill from Jeff as well and am waiting on Ed to order the front end.

It tempted me and I went for it and now I cannot wait to get it done. I am ordering some USP upfraded shift forks too.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I dropped the block and crank off at the machine shop. Waiting on the pistons, rods and all associated hardware to drop off there as well. I am just going to have them build the whole block for me. They told me it will be race ready when I get it back 

In the Metro ATL area, check out Eagle Automotive Machine Shop. Heck of a bunch of nice guys there!!! They know their stuff when it comes to racing and building those engines!!


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

Subscribed. 

I wanna see what type of numbers you produce. I have a GLI going under the knife, too. I'm just going with IE drop in rods and an F23 setup on my rebuilt stock head. Trying to source a semi-local tune before deciding on injector and MAF sizes. Clutch, coilovers, all new poly everything, BFI motor mounts, w/m(haven't decided where to spray, I have it post TB now), bigger SMIC, gonna powdercoat RCs-haven't decided on color, put some summer tires on my R8 reps-maybe PC them, euro headlights, mbc in dash, debating drop in fuel pump, 3" DP to 2.5" out the back, gonna carry rear beam to a welding shop and get a 'Shine' style sway bar put in, and more I can't remember. Thinking about getting an in dash egt gauge next to my boost gauge with the mbc in the middle in the single din slot above my radio. 

Nothing special...no screamer, but a good fun sleeper DD. If it can get 270ish HP I'll be happy. 300ish, fantastic.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Nice!! Most people go with 550cc @4bar. I am going 725 @4bar since I will be flowing alot more air then most. This way will pretty much prevent me from running lean. I might even get the head ported and polished. The shop said they would do it for me. MAF size you want to run an S4 sized MAF ("3).


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

There are some 80 or 85mm MAF housings made by Volvo with the same connector as VW also. I'm just gonna run whatever the tune vendor suggests on injectors and MAF. W/M makes a world of difference on intake temps. All stock with a Revo tune I could make a hard pull on the hwy, get off on an exit, pop the hood, and the intake mani would be ice cold to the touch.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I will not be running water meth until next year. I will more than likely be running the Eurodyne Boost Manager Plus setup. I want to get it tuned w/o it this year and see what I can put down.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> I will not be running water meth until next year. I will more than likely be running the Eurodyne Boost Manager Plus setup. I want to get it tuned w/o it this year and see what I can put down.


Talk to Marc Andre of VAP motor sports. He's one of the few who has the maestro tuning nailed down. He was also in the 9's with his own maestro tuned 1.8t:thumbup:

Tuning maestro is no picnic. It's not like tuning standalone at all. I know from personal experience.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I know. I already have Maestro running on my car. I am looking forward to tuning it with the 725's though.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Ordered the FFE front end and also going to be ordering USP upgraded shift forks. Eurotech recommended that I change them so I don't break one first time off the line. I am also getting a bunch of o-rings and gaskets for the oil cooler and some other odds and ends.

I am going to an awesome function today with Beat the Heat. Night of Blue lights. It kills me that I do not have the car done, but it will be an awesome time. All proceeds go to families that have been effected by, in the line of duty deaths. It is a very emotional time for families to have to go through a final 10-42 (off duty) by death. Many people do not understand our brotherhood, but when one of us dies, it hurts all of us no matter where they are from.


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## eze-1.8t (Feb 18, 2013)

suscribed!!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I also need to find the ID725 linear deviation numbers to use in Maestro. I'll have to email them tomorrow.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Hit the maestro thread; you'll have better luck in there


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I looked in there one time before and could not find anything. Not many people run the 725's on here. Mainly the 1k and 2k ID's. I will have to check it again.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

No, just post your question there. There's 2-3 users in there that can answer almost any questions, AND give you much better tuning advice than Tapp ever will.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I was going to use the 725cc file they updated to a few months back and tweak it from there. I have not had the time to open the file to look at anything yet. For all I know he might have the correct values in there for the linear deviation. I will probably have to tweak the injector constant and the alpha-n values. Once I get it idling and the af is stable under boost I will take it to the dyno. I want to do most of my tweaking at the track.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I went out and worked on the car more today. I wanted to get all the electrical wiring disconnected and take the head off. Taking the front end off was easy enough. I cut the timing belt to get the head off. I am not worried about timing or reusing it. I am using a different awp block with an aeb head, so that did not matter to me. One day this week, I am taking the block off. I finally realized why everyone takes the front end off when doing big engine work. It makes it 20X easier.

Front rebar off



















Front end completely removed. Easy as pie!!



















While doing all this the UPS woman shows up demanding $40 for brokerage fees for my order. I obliged her with a big smile on my face because I knew what was inside. 

SEM Large Port Intake Manifold










Complete head gasket kit for my Mahle Power Pak 83mm pistons










Mahle Power Pak 83mm pistons w/ rings and wrist pin










DM Forged 144x20 rods










After all the fun of opening up the box I got the head removed.










Look at these pistons. YUCK!!!!! Thankfully I am going to have a fresh block and pistons to use.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Took everything to the shop yesterday. They should have everything done by Friday or the beginning of next week. They are boring/honing the cylinders, line honing the mains. They are checking all clearances and will make adjustments as they deem necessary for racing. He told me it would be better if I had a girdle for the mains, but he will make due. I should also be able to pick up the head and tranny next week as well. Then the fun of putting it all back together begins!!!  

I am still waiting to hear back from R2B2 Racing whether they will tune everythinig for me. Turbo is still out getting some stuff done to it as well. I will keep that on the D-Low for now.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

You don't need a crank girdle for a frankenturbo


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I know. I was just saying what the machine shop said. I was thinking about it for down the road when I do go with a bigger turbo to just get one, but I cannot afford one right now.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> I know. I was just saying what the machine shop said. I was thinking about it for down the road when I do go with a bigger turbo to just get one, but I cannot afford one right now.


 Guys with 10 second cars don't even run them. These blocks are stout. Spend your money elsewhere man.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I plan on having a sub 10 second car in a couple years with the program.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> I plan on having a sub 10 second car in a couple years with the program.


 If you get that far; the engine will be apart a couple times by then.


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

10 second VW...but does 200+ one mile. 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4847503


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Brake Weight said:


> 10 second VW...but does 200+ one mile.
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4847503


 Someone que the price of tea in China..


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

Just making the point that a lot of work is put in to a 10 VW. 

http://supertart.com/priceofteainchina/


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Next year I want to add a dry sump setup, FFE race fuel cell and FFE dog box kit. Once I want to get everything set so it will hold the power, then I will go with something BIG.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

That will not be for a couple years though. I gotta convince Doug to come out with an F40 or somethjing like that. lol Big turbo Frankenturbo


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

I don't see Doug selling 67mm turbos anytime soon, and fwiw these engines don't generally suffer from block failures regardless. You've already amassed what's needed for a serious bottom end.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I can still wish. I know the bottom end will be built to hold some nice power. I plan on running with the F23 to the max. I think with everything I am doing and having done, it will be pushed harder then every before and see more power then people will think.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I found a dyno which is local to me. Waiting to hear back from them about tuning my car on it. Import Experts in Winder, GA. It is the closest dyno-jet to me about a 20 minute ride.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Figured since while I wait for everything to get back from the shops I would figure out what fuel I want to use. I am not running water meth this year, but I want to be able to advance the timing to make some nice power. What are everyone's thoughts on leaded C16. I have no cat and the car will only be ran at the track, so I am not really worried about the O2 sensors. Would I need to change anything else in the fuel system to run this fuel? 

I know the fuel is pricey, but like I said it will only be ran at the track. If I spend $50 twice a month I am not worried about it. I want to know will I be able to get the maximum amount of power I can out of the F23 with it while advancing the timing as much as I can?


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Buy a box of primary 02 sensors.

The rear o2 can be tuned out in maestro, but the primary is 100% necessary no matter what tune you're running


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

If you have access to e85 I would use it for the cost savings over 5 gallon drums of race gas.


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> If you have access to e85 I would use it for the cost savings over 5 gallon drums of race gas.


 ^^ Agree


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I know where I can get C16 in Metro Atlanta, but where can I get E85? I do not think I have ever seen a place selling it. If I were to go with E85 wouldnt I have to go with bigger injectors over the 725's? I guess I could go @5bar with them which would put me close to 900cc's. The car has to be done in about 7 weeks and I am not sure I will have the time to put in new fuel lines for it either.


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

Beat the Heat said:


> I know where I can get C16 in Metro Atlanta, but where can I get E85? I do not think I have ever seen a place selling it. If I were to go with E85 wouldnt I have to go with bigger injectors over the 725's? I guess I could go @5bar with them which would put me close to 900cc's. The car has to be done in about 7 weeks and I am not sure I will have the time to put in new fuel lines for it either.


 http://www.e85locator.net/State Pages/GeorgiaE85stationlocations.html#Atlanta 

http://e85vehicles.com/e85-stations.html 

http://find.mapmuse.com/map/ethanol85 

:beer::thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Good deal. Issam just informed me that I need to run atleast ID1000's and two bosch fuel pumps to run C16. I have some thinking to do. 

I finally muscled out the block form the engine bay. Note to self: never do that again!!!! Due to the fact that my friend did not bring the engine hoist over I blocked up the one side of the block and used a jack on the other. I unbolted the engine mount and lifted the block out. I am going to clean up the bay and vaccum some debri out. Then it will be ready for the new block, head and tranny. 

Total time spent: 5 minutes 
Fact that I can lift a block without assistance: Priceless


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

I pulled the front end off and rolled mine out with a $100 ATV jack. Now I need to figure out how to get it on my engine stand.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

That is a good question. If you get 3 big friends who are strong you could always lift it up and bolt it on there, but someone would probably get hurt. I thought I was going to pull something. lol 

SEM Intake ready to go!!! 










Blacked out my GTI Headlights to get ready for the emergency strobes. 










Wife is getting mad about how many engines and heads I have in the garage.  










Engine Bay ready for cleaning.


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## Don® (Oct 11, 2011)

Looks good :thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

It is going to look even better when it is installed!! Goal is to have it all done in about 7 weeks for SOWO!! Everything important is still out having machine work done though.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Throttle body is mounted wrong


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

The cover is supposed to be facing the engine isn't it? I was wondering that when I was putting it on. No biggie I can change it tomorrow.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Don, I want to thank you and everyone at SEM for your support of Beat the Heat!!! Everything happening would not be happening if it were not for companies like you and INA Engineering!!!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I need opinions guys!!! I am going to be running INA's new in tank high flow fuel pump with my ID725's. Will this combination be enough to run E85? I was looking for some more information on E85 and what I need to change. Do I need to change the fuel lines with it as well?


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Well, since e85 requires 33% more fuel VOLUME, and you already have more injector than you need; you can crank the rail pressure up to say 5-6 bar, but you'll have to run (2) 044's in a surge tank AFTER the intank to keep up with the pressure, since you'll effectively be running the injectors at 9 bar to overcome (1) bar atmosphere, plus 30psi of boost(another 2 bar)...


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Would I be able to mount the surge tank in the trunk while staying within nhra guidelines? The battery will be in the trunk as well. I don't know where else I could install it. 2 more pumps and a variable fuel pressure regulator. Good thing the ID's can handle high pressure.


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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

Rod Ratio said:


> Well, since e85 requires 33% more fuel VOLUME, and you already have more injector than you need; you can crank the rail pressure up to say 5-6 bar, but you'll have to run (2) 044's in a surge tank AFTER the intank to keep up with the pressure, since you'll effectively be running the injectors at 9 bar to overcome (1) bar atmosphere, plus 30psi of boost(another 2 bar)...


 There's got to be a less complicated way of running a modestly-sized turbo on e85. All that gear and that stratospheric rail pressure just don't strike me as practical, or even safe. Why can't you fuel it adequately at your everyday 3bar pressure?


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

I'd rather run more pressure than bigger injectors. more pressure = better atomization, but that's just me.

A lot of guys around here are stuck on running gm injectors at 3 bar though; so you're going to hear conflicting opinions; although there are still guys who like to run carburetors too, sooooo


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> There's got to be a less complicated way of running a modestly-sized turbo on e85. All that gear and that stratospheric rail pressure just don't strike me as practical, or even safe. Why can't you fuel it adequately at your everyday 3bar pressure?


 Everyday 3 bar rail pressure is inefficient, and backwards in this day and age.

Higher pressure = better atomization, and natural in cylinder cooling to a lesser degree than w/m obviously, but it's still BETTER than the alternative.

IMO


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

It would be nice if there were a more practical way of doing this, but I want to do it right. At 6 bar the ID725's run over 1000cc's. 5 bar is 960cc's. I figure the 2 extra pumps would run me around $500 and the surge tank probably another $300. New lines/fittings another $200-300. I have some serious thinking to do. I have a new part time job so I do have a little extra money. Doug it is looking like you may see what the F23 can do with E85.  I have 7 weeks to figure it out. 

Do I need to install new fuel lines throughout? That is a major factor in my time frame. That will ultimately help me with my decision to do this.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

034 has a nice dual pump surge tank kit. Looks like it mounts in the spare wheel well. $295 for the surge tank and mounting kit. I will have to look into that.


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

The more pressure you push through a line, the more frictional pressure loss is realized. As for the compound of the line, I don't know. But making it a larger line, I would. It'd take some of the load off of the pumps.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

What size line should I use? I would assume 6-8 AN.


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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

Rod Ratio said:


> Everyday 3 bar rail pressure is inefficient, and backwards in this day and age.
> 
> Higher pressure = better atomization, and natural in cylinder cooling to a lesser degree than w/m obviously, but it's still BETTER than the alternative.
> 
> IMO


 Honestly, I'd follow that path too. But for the OP I still wonder if he's got enough on his plate with this project already.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Nothing I cannot handle.  If i cannot get everything right away it is something I can do later in the year.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Aaron runs 10an supply, and 6an return on his drag Quattro coupe


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Now, what do i do with that fuel distribution block in the engine bay by the fire wall?


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

8AN is enough to support well over 1000hp


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am going to go with 8AN in and 6AN return. I am figuring about 15 feet of each to be on the safe side. I am more than likely going with the 034 dual surge tank or fuel safe race cells surge tank. I am probably going to mount it in the trunk in the spare wheel well.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

This thread has gone from zero to awesome in less than 3 seconds!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Wait a minute........ 

How so? I thought its been awesome from the beginning.  

It did go from a basic k04-02X build to.........Frankenturbo F23 2.0L Stroker on E85 Drag Build


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

You're being smart, and building it ONCE, with the future in mind. That's always full of win man! :beer:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I for one do not want to have to do all this again. That is for sure. Yes it is fun as heck, but it is also stressful trying to remember what I want to do and how I want to do it. Last year I would have never thought I would be this deep into it. lol


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Not to mention the wife would probably be THRILLED if you did it twice! :laugh:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Hmmmmm.....I would be in the dog house for a longgggg time. lol


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## Gonzzz (Apr 27, 2010)

E85? Now we are talking! 
I had become dissapointed with this build until now. 


Now I want to see this come together opcorn:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Now I have to figure out what tune in Maestro I am going to use. I already had a 725cc file ready for 93 octane. I guess I have to figure out what the injector constant would be with the 725cc's @6bar.  

Issam is helping me out with designing the layout of the fuel lines from the in tank, to the surge to the rail and from the fpr back to the surge. I am going to use Goodridge lines with their push lock fittings for the entire fuel system.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

6 bar? That's 87 psi of pressure. The stock rail goes static ~90 psi. And that 87 psi is BEFORE you apply any boost to the regulator, aka this isn't going to work. You don't want to be running more than 4 bar of fuel pressure on the OEM rail if you have better alternatives.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am getting rid of the oem rail and getting one from INA along with an adjustable fpr.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

20v master said:


> 6 bar? That's 87 psi of pressure. The stock rail goes static ~90 psi. And that 87 psi is BEFORE you apply any boost to the regulator, aka this isn't going to work. You don't want to be running more than 4 bar of fuel pressure on the OEM rail if you have better alternatives.


 Says conventional wisdom; which has been proven incorrect. Talk to Don R, the guys at USRT or anyone else who has done it. 

It works, and it works beautifully; you just better make sure your fuel system is fortified to handle 120+ psi of pressure...


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

You still don't want to run at 6 bar of fuel pressure.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

And it will be.  Issam is working on the setup right now. 

I talked to Injector Dynamics and they told me the 725's will be fine running that amount of pressure with a surge tank running E85.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Rod Ratio said:


> Says conventional wisdom; which has been proven incorrect.


 Measuring fuel pressure on the OEM rail on the dyno isn't conventional wisdom.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

20v master said:


> You still don't want to run at 6 bar of fuel pressure.


 You're making some big statements Adam; with nothing more than "conventional wisdom" to back them up..


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

20v master said:


> Measuring fuel pressure on the OEM rail on the dyno isn't conventional wisdom.


 Nobody said anything about using the stock rail Adam


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Rod Ratio said:


> You're making some big statements Adam; with nothing more than "conventional wisdom" to back them up..


 Because I have what to gain by lying about recording pressure on the dyno? I don't sell fuel rails. :screwy:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Lets not turn this into an argument. I am going a route which many people in turn do not agree with. I have researched it thoroughly and am happy with the route I am going. If for some reason it does not work, then so be it. For now let's keep this as a informative thread showing my build progress along with some good information in the process.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Rod Ratio said:


> Nobody said anything about using the stock rail Adam


 So sorry, his picture from less than 48 hours ago shows a stock rail in the SEM manifold. He corrected that. I'm not sure why you think it's worth repeating.....but, you eventually lose benefits of better atomization the higher and higher you go with pressure. 6 bar does nothing but put extra strain on and less flow from the pumps. :thumbdown:


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

20v master said:


> Because I have what to gain by lying about recording pressure on the dyno? I don't sell fuel rails. :screwy:


 Relax dude..

It works, has been proven to work, and has many advantages. Better atomization, slight cooling effect, etc.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Rod Ratio said:


> Relax dude..
> 
> It works, has been proven to work, and has many advantages. Better atomization, slight cooling effect, etc.


 Says your conventional wisdom.... Can you define "better" or "slight" with numbers, or even proof?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I was still researching this within the past 4 days. The stock rail is still on it. Yesterday a made the decision to go this route after talking to Injector Dynamics and INA Engineering. I am getting the rail from INA, fuel line from Goodridge, surge tank from 034 or Fuel Safe Race Cells. Not sure yet on which surge tank I want to use. I could probably get away with running the injectors at 5 bar, but not too sure about it. I will be running an INA Walhbro in tank setup with 2 044 bosch pumps in a surge tank.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

20v master said:


> So sorry, his picture from less than 48 hours ago shows a stock rail in the SEM manifold. He corrected that. I'm not sure why you think it's worth repeating.....but, you eventually lose benefits of better atomization the higher and higher you go with pressure. 6 bar does nothing but put extra strain on and less flow from the pumps. :thumbdown:


 That's why he's running dual 044's in a surge, fed by a high flow intank, and running through 8an feed to an aftermarket rail, and regulator, then returned to the tank using 6an.


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

Beat the Heat said:


> Yesterday a made the decision to go this route after talking to Injector Dynamics and INA Engineering. I am getting the rail from INA, fuel line from Goodridge, surge tank from 034 or Fuel Safe Race Cells. Not sure yet on which surge tank I want to use.


 If you say it a 3rd time maybe the arguing will stop then....


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Lol, it worked.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

I totally lost the will to post in the 1.8t technical because there is hardly anything technical going on, and the few technical threads get littered with the usual drama and bickering that makes it not worth it. However, I think this is a cool thread, about a cool build, and for a good cause... so I'll break my resolution and post here (the fact that I see Adam posting in this forum again  has a part to play in it too ). 

Anyway, I agree with those who suggested that going with insane pressure to run E85 on this setup may not be the best idea. I'm not denying that high pressure and atomization is the way of the future, but not in setups that were not completely designed (or re-designed) to handle it. I see some potential problems with this plan vs more conventional fuel pressures (45-60 psi): 

1) The stock rail will definitely go static with this kind of fuel pressure and whatever boost pressure is added on top of it. At just 25 psi of boost pressure, you're looking at a 112 psi total (I'm sure the OP will want more boost too with such a build). I know it's been said that there is a plan for aftermarket fuel rail, but this brings me to my next point. 

2) All the aftermarket rails I've seen for the platform are ALUMINUM (with the word billet plastered all around it, as if it was some God given gift to the car world). Anyone see where I'm going with this yet? Aluminum doesn't do too well with alcohol compounds. Methanol being the one with the worst effect on aluminum, and ethanol still causing a healthy dose of damage. 

OP, not to say that a high pressure system can't be retrofitted into the setup, but it would need some major planning - and that's including a rail that is not OEM (incapable of flowing enough) or aluminum (due to the ethanol effect on the material). I would suggest you follow those with actual field experience with running these cars on E85 (Adam ran on corn in his VW; I run the good juice in my Audi TT, and all my cars for that matter). The knowledge on the issue with the stock rail flow capacity is from personal experience, and the problem with aluminum rails came to my attention in my EVOs with disintegrating rails (I even wasted money on a polymer coated one that only lasted 6 months more than the generic ones). So, all I can advise is to plan carefully or you'll run into the road blocks mentioned above. :beer: 

(maybe you can have custom rail machined to support the high pressure dreams, but nothing guarantees all the effort/headaches will net you anything substantial over "conventional wisdom").


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> 2) All the aftermarket rails I've seen for the platform are ALUMINUM (with the word billet plastered all around it, as if it was some God given gift to the car world). Anyone see where I'm going with this yet? Aluminum doesn't do too well with alcohol compounds. Methanol being the one with the worst effect on aluminum, and ethanol still causing a healthy dose of damage.


 Unanodized aluminum does not fair well but hard anodized does.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

INA said:


> Unanodized aluminum does not fair well but hard anodized does.


 That was also the big marketing point on the last one I ran on my track EVO. That didn't work too well for me, less than year and it was all destroyed like the two previous ones. That's also why I haven't even bothered with the ones available to the 1.8t. If you have something that you want to put to the test, I'll gladly test it for you in the upcoming racing season.


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## Gonzzz (Apr 27, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> That was also the big marketing point on the last one I ran on my track EVO. That didn't work too well for me, less than year and it was all destroyed like the two previous ones. That's also why I haven't even bothered with the ones available to the 1.8t. If you have something that you want to put to the test, I'll gladly test it for you in the upcoming racing season.


 :thumbup:


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> That was also the big marketing point on the last one I ran on my track EVO. That didn't work too well for me, less than year and it was all destroyed like the two previous ones. That's also why I haven't even bothered with the ones available to the 1.8t. If you have something that you want to put to the test, I'll gladly test it for you in the upcoming racing season.


 Send over a PM. I have only done a few of them (namely inline-5 crowd) but I have not heard of any failing. Anodizing is only as good as the shop doing it though... 
maybe they cheaped out?


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## Three3Se7en (Jul 2, 2007)

Maybe someone needs to make a few 304 stainless rails?


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

INA said:


> Send over a PM. I have only done a few of them (namely inline-5 crowd) but I have not heard of any failing. Anodizing is only as good as the shop doing it though...
> maybe they cheaped out?


 Have they been running on E85 cars? If so, have they checked their rails after a few months of being on high corn content? If you have confidence in the anodizing process used, I'll definitely put it to the test (be warned that I punish stuff and will report the results without any sugar coating). PM coming shortly. 




Three3Se7en said:


> Maybe someone needs to make a few 304 stainless rails?


 Now, that would be a nice product! :thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Marcus, I appreciate the information and understand what you are saying with the setup. This is exactly the kind of information I wanted to find out about what I need to use and what I should not use with E85.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

INA said:


> Send over a PM. I have only done a few of them (namely inline-5 crowd) but I have not heard of any failing. Anodizing is only as good as the shop doing it though...
> maybe they cheaped out?


 I hope my 034 rail holds up because all I run is corn.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

So far the only fpr I could find is the weldon which can handle up to 120psi. Looks like a real nice setup. 

http://www.weldonracing.com/product/13-5/A2040_Series,_Bypass_Regulator.html


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

They are all rated at base pressure; not base+boost level+(1) atmosphere


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Rod Ratio said:


> They are all rated at base pressure; not base+boost level+(1) atmosphere


  

A2040-281-A-200	Fuel Injected High Pressure *(120 psi + base)* -- Bypass Regulator	$265.00


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I understand now, I think. If the regulator says 70psi plus base pressure, it it actually capable of the 87 psi?It would actually be 70psi +43.5 psi tops?


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> I understand now, I think. If the regulator says 70psi plus base pressure, it it actually capable of the 87 psi?It would actually be 70psi +43.5 psi tops?


 The term "Base" is your base rail pressure at idle before the rising rate set in the regulator. 

In your case, with the example provided, "70 + base" will be 43.5 psi + 70 psi headroom for the rising rate =113.5 psi (arbitrary using 3bar as your base pressure).


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am just going to ask. What would I need to run 87 psi to the injectors if I get an adjustable one?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Actually 034 has a nice Aeromotive that looks like it can handle the higher pressure. Guess I over looked it last night. It says high pressure. I am assuming it will go up to and above 87 psi. 

http://www.034motorsport.com/fuel-i...e-fuel-pressure-regulator-10-inlet-p-436.html


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Have they been running on E85 cars? If so, have they checked their rails after a few months of being on high corn content?


 E85 and given the nature of Audi enthusiasts vs VW , I am pretty sure I would have heard a little kicking and screaming if an issue arose. What are you running for lines and fittings? 
A SS fuel rail would be interested though!


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## pluck yew (Oct 23, 2011)

been running E-85 and E-98 in an aluminum anodized rail for a couple years or more. real drag car only use. 

never seen anything wrong with either of the rails i use, either. 

i actually had my original rail anodized along with my original fuel cell when i switched to corn juice. 

and i am having my newly built fuel cell and some other stuff anodized this coming week. 

i run 40+ psi boost on Injector Dynamics 2000's with 3 to 3.5 BAR base pressure, make >800 AWHP, use two 044 pumps, and a Fuelab FPR. i have logs of fuel pressure and duty cycle, and my DC is around 60-65% peak and i never have had issue with pressure. 

i may see how 5 BAR base does, may not. its working just fine now. 

one more thing you now need to purchase: you NEED a 6 micron filter. there are a couple, and i am now running a Fuelab one. the ID injectors have their own last chance screen on the inlet of the injectors and i believe it is 7 micron. and when you do not filter far enough down going INTO the injector, that screen can and will get clogged fast. which will then affect how the injector performs. 

i know the intended use is drag race, but is that drag race only like mine? i run the car, then that night or the next day, i pickle the system by draining the ethanol and running regular gas thru the system to flush it. i dont let ethanol sit in the system. 

but i am curious as to the *ACTUAL INTENDED USE* of this car. i understand about the intent, but not everything, but it is not my business. 

i will refrain from any comments further. 

have a nice day.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

INA said:


> E85 and given the nature of Audi enthusiasts vs VW , I am pretty sure I would have heard a little kicking and screaming if an issue arose. What are you running for lines and fittings?
> A SS fuel rail would be interested though!


 Lines are still OEM type fuel rated lines with beefed up stock type hardware. With an aftermarket rail, I may use the opportunity to go with fancy fittings and steel braided lines, but for now barbed fittings with rubber fuel lines is the plan. PM sent! :beer:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

The car is going to used for drag use only and driving on and off the trailer at the track, show or school. I did forget about the filter. Thank you for reminding me about that. The intent of the car is to race it at the track in an effort to get kids to stop street racing.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

pluck yew said:


> i know the intended use is drag race, but is that drag race only like mine? i run the car, then that night or the next day, i pickle the system by draining the ethanol and running regular gas thru the system to flush it. i dont let ethanol sit in the system.
> 
> have a nice day.


 There you go! Flushing the system and storing with regular Dino fuel on a car that sees a handful of use per racing season is a bit different than the norm. My past experiences and concerns with rail material for use of alcohols is for long term use, where the fuel could be stagnant in the system for extended period of time. I never did anything more than dumping some E85 fuel stabilizer/conditioner when parking and storing the cars as they were never truly considered trailer queens. 

Good advice on the filter Aaron, I run one as well (can't remember the micron rating) and would recommend it too to the OP. I am sure, judging from the pics of your fuel system, that it is more than ready to handle high pressure. It would be interesting to see how moving to high pressure would affect the output in your beast (usually, well designed high pressure fuel injections system have tailored heat range for the fuel. And the fuel temp isn't allowed to run wild with the added pressure, but rather controlled/heated to a desired optimal range). :beer:


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> usually, well designed high pressure fuel injections system have tailored heat range for the fuel. And the fuel temp isn't allowed to run wild with the added pressure, but rather controlled/heated to a desired optimal range). :beer:


 That's an interesting topic. Could you point out some examples. 

I've heard of people adding fuel coolers. 

I've heard of people adding fuel warmers. 

But I haven't heard of people really regulating fuel temp. Very cool idea.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Would you recommend using the NGK 8EIX plugs? I think that is the model. 

Looks like this is going to be the setup: 
1 INA In-Tank high flow pump 
2 Bosch 044 pumps 
1 034 Dual Surge Tank with Install Kit 
1 Aeromotive Adjustable FPR w/ guage 
1 6 Micron fuel filter 
8AN Fuel Supply Lines w/ fittings 
6AN Return w/ fittings 
INA Fuel Rail


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> IHowever, I think this is a cool thread, about a cool build, and for a good cause... so I'll break my resolution and post here (the fact that I see Adam posting in this forum again  has a part to play in it too ).


 :laugh: 



Beat the Heat said:


> Would you recommend using the NGK 8EIX plugs? I think that is the model.


 No, you won't need that cold for E85. A 7 is just fine for you.


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

This thread is full of awesome now and informative on the corn front.:thumbup::beer:


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

20v master said:


> No, you won't need that cold for E85. A 7 is just fine for you.


 Can you post up more details of your E85 set up or similar set ups you have been involved in? Would be very informative for the thread.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I cannot wait to see what kind of gains/effects E85 will have with this setup. Maybe we will see a Frankenturbo push over 350 whp.  With the porting of the hotside of the turbine and other work I am having done, it should be interesting to see what happens.


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

Beat the Heat said:


> I cannot wait to see what kind of gains/effects E85 will have with this setup. Maybe we will see a Frankenturbo push over 350 whp.  With the porting of the hotside of the turbine and other work I am having done, it should be interesting to see what happens.


 Pretty positive Steve already passed 350whp on f23 w pump gas and wmi. His car is a beast to say the least...


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

That is spartiati correct? I think you are right. Either way I am hopeful for some nice feedback from this setup.  

Ordered the surge tank, aeromotive fpr and mounting kit from 034 a few minutes ago. I have to hold off on the pumps until I work a couple more part time jobs to get the mulah. Issam was awesome enough to donate the time to design my fuel line layout for me.


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

Beat the Heat said:


> That is spartiati correct? I think you are right. Either way I am hopeful for some nice feedback from this setup.
> 
> Ordered the surge tank, aeromotive fpr and mounting kit from 034 a few minutes ago. I have to hold off on the pumps until I work a couple more part time jobs to get the mulah. Issam was awesome enough to donate the time to design my fuel line layout for me.


 Yes sir:thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

He has actually helped me out with quite a few things on the car. Heck of a nice guy!!! 

Back to the corn meal.  

Now that I am running a external adjustable fpr, it would be connected to the return line correct? Restricting the flow returning to the surge thus creating the higher pressure for the injectors?


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

Beat the Heat said:


> He has actually helped me out with quite a few things on the car. Heck of a nice guy!!!
> 
> Back to the corn meal.
> 
> Now that I am running a external adjustable fpr, it would be connected to the return line correct? Restricting the flow returning to the surge thus creating the higher pressure for the injectors?


 I have my aeromotive fpr mounted directly on the end of the rail with the return line going out the bottom. I have seen some people mount it pre fuel rail and not really have any problems(so they say) but I see that as being incorrect. The fpr restricts the flow leaving the system therefore creating proper rail pressure. Just about every make and model out have the fpr mounted after the injectors and most of the time it is mounted on the end of the rail. Some return less systems will have it mounted in other locations. You want to go a head and get a gauge to mount directly the the FPR to get your pressure dialed in. I use the aeremotive one that cost about $20. Tip...Remove the gauge from the FPR when not using it they don't like a lot of vibrations and will break eventually if left on. I've been thru 2 from getting lazy and leaving them on the rail. You might be able to spend more on a fluid filled gauge that could take more abuse but your already spending a bunch of loot as it is....


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

That's what I thought. I just wanted to make sure. I think I am almost done purchasing stuff for the setup. I just need the lines/fittings, fuel rail, timing belt kit and pumps and I believe I will have everything to complete it. (For Now)


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## pluck yew (Oct 23, 2011)

yes, the return comes out the bottom of the FPR. 

and when you set it up and dial it in, setting the base pressure is done without the car running. make the fuel pumps run, adjust the pressure to what you want it to be at BASE, then tighten the nut don and leave it. 

and i have never had a gauge issue, mine stays mounted on it all the time.


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

pluck yew said:


> yes, the return comes out the bottom of the FPR.
> 
> and when you set it up and dial it in, setting the base pressure is done without the car running. make the fuel pumps run, adjust the pressure to what you want it to be at BASE, then tighten the nut don and leave it.
> 
> and i have never had a gauge issue, mine stays mounted on it all the time.


 Are you running the aeromotive gauge or a different gauge? Is the FPR mounted on the rail or the firewall? I once called aeromotive to ask another question and the tech guy said not to leave it mounted, remove it and toss it in the tool bag because they don't like vibration. I said screw it and left it on and that one lasted about 6mo and then I bought another and left it on while I was changing tunes, pressure and running logs and it lasted maybe a month or so( i had moved to all really stiff mounts by that time). So needless to say I need to buy my 3rd one now...lol


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Rod Ration pointed me to this little tid bit of information from the Aeromotve website talking about pressure in the return line. Enjoy: 

To understand this problem, it’s necessary to know that a fuel pump does not “put out” fuel pressure, it “puts out” fuel flow. A bypass regulator, correctly matched for a given flow volume, sets up a controlled restriction of this flow, thereby creating and then managing fuel pressure. If the regulator won’t adjust pressure down, verify it is large enough for the pump in use. Also, check the return line for kinks or obstructions and make sure the line size is adequate for it’s length and the flow it must handle going back to the tank. Remember, at low load (idle and cruise), the regulator and return line together must flow over 99% of the pumps volume. If the return line or the regulator, or both, are too small for the pump, the resulting fuel pressure is considered false-high. This means pressure is out of the regulator’s control and will drop to the actual regulator set point as the engine goes under load (WOT). A test for correct regulator and return line selection and function is to confirm pressure will adjust at least 5 psi lower than the desired base pressure, vacuum line disconnected.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Updated Information: 

The block is bored/honed, crank is polished, all clearances have been checked, cylinder head is completed. The machine shop is sending the block out for balancing along with the clutch and flywheel. They said they are going to zero balance the flywheel/clutch. Waiting on the transmission. Things are looking good so this week.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

*Rod Ratio


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## pluck yew (Oct 23, 2011)

Twopnt016v said:


> Are you running the aeromotive gauge or a different gauge? Is the FPR mounted on the rail or the firewall? I once called aeromotive to ask another question and the tech guy said not to leave it mounted, remove it and toss it in the tool bag because they don't like vibration. I said screw it and left it on and that one lasted about 6mo and then I bought another and left it on while I was changing tunes, pressure and running logs and it lasted maybe a month or so( i had moved to all really stiff mounts by that time). So needless to say I need to buy my 3rd one now...lol


 when i ran the 13109 FPR from Aeromotive i used a Summit gauge. i had it mounted on the rail for awhile, and then the firewall. that was the rabbit. 

this car now, it has always been firewall mounted. with the same Summit type gauge. and never an issue with the gauge. my motor and trans are mounted solid, steel on steel, no give.


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

pluck yew said:


> when i ran the 13109 FPR from Aeromotive i used a Summit gauge. i had it mounted on the rail for awhile, and then the firewall. that was the rabbit.
> 
> this car now, it has always been firewall mounted. with the same Summit type gauge. and never an issue with the gauge. my motor and trans are mounted solid, steel on steel, no give.


 :thumbup: Sounds like the Summit gauge is what I'll be picking up next. I know your set up is as solid as it gets so if that ish works for you then it should work for me.:beer:


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Twopnt016v said:


> :thumbup: Sounds like the Summit gauge is what I'll be picking up next. I know your set up is as solid as it gets so if that ish works for you then it should work for me.:beer:


 FYI, I use a Podi gauge with a bosch 5v electric sender for my fuel pressure monitoring. 

Either way works, but just wanted to remind you that you can go electronic or mechanical. 

:thumbup::thumbup:


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

Couldn't one be tied in on the fuel line and cabin mounted like a boost gauge?


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Brake Weight said:


> Couldn't one be tied in on the fuel line and cabin mounted like a boost gauge?





groggory said:


> FYI, I use a Podi gauge with a bosch 5v electric sender for my fuel pressure monitoring.
> 
> Either way works, but just wanted to remind you that you can go electronic or mechanical.
> 
> :thumbup::thumbup:


 ^^^


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

groggory said:


> FYI, I use a Podi gauge with a bosch 5v electric sender for my fuel pressure monitoring.
> 
> Either way works, but just wanted to remind you that you can go electronic or mechanical.
> 
> :thumbup::thumbup:


 No doubt:thumbup: I prefer mechanical myself but am not opposed to a quality electronic sending unit.:thumbup:


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## pluck yew (Oct 23, 2011)

Brake Weight said:


> Couldn't one be tied in on the fuel line and cabin mounted like a boost gauge?


 fuel in the drivers compartment is a big no-no and not legal for NHRA use. you would have to go electrical with a sender.... 

and, FWIW, i use the liquid filled version...


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

pluck yew said:


> and, FWIW, i use the liquid filled version...


 I was curious awhile back about dry vs. wet mechanical fuel pressure gauges so I called up Aeromotive (who's opinion I generally trust) and asked them. 

They said the main benefit of wet vs. dry in the old days was that a dry gauge would often rattle its needle off if you mounted it to a high vibration motor. However, they now ONLY sell dry gauges and say they've solved that problem. Also, according to the Aeromotive guy, dry gauges stay truer over temperature than wet gauges. 

True or not, that's the information I got from Aeromotive on the subject of mechanical fuel pressure gauges.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I will probably get a dry unit and mount the fpr on the fire wall. 

Now I know that my in-tank will prime upon starting the car up. How do I set up the wiring for the surge tanks? Battery will be in the trunk mounted in a nhra legal box. Should I just make a switch so that I can turn the pumps on and off at will, or configure it the same way as the in tank to prime when you turn it on.


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## pluck yew (Oct 23, 2011)

mine is a drag race only setup. 

i dont have an in-tank pump feeding a surge, both my tanks are IN my fuel cell. 

i have 4 switches. one turns on the ignition, the second one allows the circuit to the fuel pumps/injectors to be on, third one is fan bypass if i want to manually control the fan other than just at op temp from the ECU, and 4th is the AWIC pump which i sometimes have forgotten to turn on during a pass :banghead: 

make the two pumps in the surge tank come on with the in-tank pump. use the trigger wire from the in-tank to kick a relay to fire up the 044's. done.


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## spartiati (May 19, 2008)

Beat the Heat said:


> That is spartiati correct? I think you are right. Either way I am hopeful for some nice feedback from this setup.
> 
> Ordered the surge tank, aeromotive fpr and mounting kit from 034 a few minutes ago. I have to hold off on the pumps until I work a couple more part time jobs to get the mulah. Issam was awesome enough to donate the time to design my fuel line layout for me.


 
To date the best dyno was 351corrected whp. Fuel pressure was dropping off in the top end so I will revisit the dyno with the g2 injectors and the genesis 2 pump (when it comes out). I have a few little things to do before then which may help out power as well. Ill make a post about it when the time comes.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am hoping to be on the dyno by the first week of May w/ the E85. Stroker kit as I said is done. Just getting balanced. I will probably go pick up the head on Tuesday, this way as soon as the block is assembled I can get cracking at it.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Progress is quite progressive on this build sir!

Needs moar pics tho


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I have to wait for the block, head and tranny to come back from their respective shops.  Hopefully next week I will have everything back.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

C'mon mannn! Take pics of your cat! Something..


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

groggory said:


> I was curious awhile back about dry vs. wet mechanical fuel pressure gauges so I called up Aeromotive (who's opinion I generally trust) and asked them.
> 
> They said the main benefit of wet vs. dry in the old days was that a dry gauge would often rattle its needle off if you mounted it to a high vibration motor. However, they now ONLY sell dry gauges and say they've solved that problem. Also, according to the Aeromotive guy, dry gauges stay truer over temperature than wet gauges.
> 
> True or not, that's the information I got from Aeromotive on the subject of mechanical fuel pressure gauges.


 LOL...They told me to remove it or it would fail and it did... twice. They solved nada...


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

Rod Ratio said:


> C'mon mannn! Take pics of your cat! Something..


 HAHAHA!:laugh::thumbup::beer:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

After talking to the machine shop, I wanted to make sure that the block would still be within specs. They had to resurface the block. He told me, he had to take .006 off of it. Is this going to create clearance issues and if so will I have to add some sort of a spacer for it? I need the info ASAP. It goes to get balance today.


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

Nah you should be ok. Did you have your head decked also and do you know how much?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Head was in good shape. There was no need for decking.


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

Beat the Heat said:


> Head was in good shape. There was no need for decking.


You're good..:thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Awesome. I am going back to the E85 pump solution now. 

For the in-tank, it should just connect to the oem wiring. I will know more about that when I get it in. If I splice into the in-tank lines for the 2 044's, I would just need to connect the +/- on the battery and be good correct?

I just got in my battery disconnect from Summit Racing yesterday and some silicone tubing and short intercooler pipes to create my own intercooler piping from my intercooler to driver side TB. I will post pictures of it later. *Rod Ratio......*

The wiring would be like this. 
Distribution Block--->Power Wire --->Fuse Block--->power wire--->Battery Disconnect--->Battery +Terminal


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Just tap the power feed for the stock fuel pump to trigger a relay for the 044's. the actual power supply for them should be a direct line from the battery. The factory power lead is ONLY used to trigger the relay.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Tip: fat, good wiring is the cheapest way to boost fueling. Small voltage gains make for big flow gains.

I'd hang a ring terminal right off the alternator.

Use 8-10 AWG


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

INA said:


> Can you post up more details of your E85 set up or similar set ups you have been involved in? Would be very informative for the thread.


Here is some info on mine (in order of progression):
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5146589-E85-TT-dyno(aborted)
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5390056-Putting-E85-to-work!
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-Cooling-quot-a-different-approach-quot/page4
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5788526-Chronicles-of-a-track-TT





Beat the Heat said:


> Would you recommend using the NGK 8EIX plugs? I think that is the model.





20v master said:


> No, you won't need that cold for E85. A 7 is just fine for you.


What makes you say that Adam?

I've had great success running the NGK iridium race plugs in 8 heat range (BKR8EIX designation number, 4642 stock number) with VW/Audi parts bin ignition coils and E85. I recommended them to DougLoBue too when he was having spark blowouts/misfire type issues on his E85-running BT Audi TT - at around 30 psi and up, the 7s weren't cutting it anymore, and enough for the ECU to pull corrections (similar to what I experienced), the 8s were the solution. 

In a setup closer to what the OP is doing, I ran the regular 7s (not the non-resistor type race version) but had better luck with the iridium 8s. The 7s (brand new after one race) were too "white" for my taste and were telling me that they were operating a bit too hot. The reason for iridiums, instead of copper when I went colder, is that they don't grow their gap as easily as the coppers and will last much longer than a race weekend at high cyl pressure conditions. 

I know that nobody reads plugs anymore nowadays, but I had no carbon deposit on the 8 tips. The cold start and warm up sequences weren't affected by any mean either (I index them religiously and think that the practice may help with cold start/warm up behavior on colder plugs and E85). I'd like to think that with the kind of timing advance and boost the OP will hopefully be running on E85 (I run a whole lot in mine), the extra heat and pre-ignition protection of the 8s will be well received. :beer:

PS: There were no perceivable issues or drawbacks from running non-resistored type race plugs (even with the resistor on the valve not grounded, the radio and electronics performed the same). If for some reason you feel that you have to run resistored type plugs (I doubt you'll need perfect AM reception while you're racing ), there is also the BCR8ES (stock# 5430) that will work on our cars also, however I never tried them so I can't comment on how they fare with the conditions.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

groggory said:


> Tip: fat, good wiring is the cheapest way to boost fueling. Small voltage gains make for big flow gains.
> 
> I'd hang a ring terminal right off the alternator.
> 
> Use 8-10 AWG


So run the + from the battery straight to the alternator? Would you also run the ground all the way from the front to the back or will I be ok grounding it in the trunk? 

I will give the BKR8EIX a try. I was running BKR7E's before and did not really like them much. What about my fuel pump wiring for the 044's? I am good with mechanical work, but wiring is my one down fall in my knowledge base. I tried searching, but could only find information on the kit that USRT makes for inline pumps.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Run the copper plugs man. They work better, and are cheap. The downside? They don't last as long. But that doesn't really matter; as you'll be changing them, and messing with plug gaps anyway.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Beat the Heat said:


> So run the + from the battery straight to the alternator? Would you also run the ground all the way from the front to the back or will I be ok grounding it in the trunk?
> 
> I will give the BKR8EIX a try. I was running BKR7E's before and did not really like them much. What about my fuel pump wiring for the 044's? I am good with mechanical work, but wiring is my one down fall in my knowledge base. I tried searching, but could only find information on the kit that USRT makes for inline pumps.


If you're weak on the wiring PM me and I'll help get you all set up. It's not complicated, but there are right and wrong ways to do things.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I know there are. I really do not want to go through all this work and fry my ecu because I did not ground something properly. I have heard of wiring all positive up front that were on the battery to the distribution block and ground everything else to the frame on the side. Then ground the battery in the trunk to the seatbelt bolt.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Chassis grounds are good. Just make sure your major ground strap point are SOLID

By going straight to the alternator you can pick up a few tenths of a volt... Useful for a performance application.

Offer stands if you want help with the details.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am more then willing to accept your help with the wiring.


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## pluck yew (Oct 23, 2011)

Rod Ratio said:


> Just tap the power feed for the stock fuel pump to trigger a relay for the 044's. the actual power supply for them should be a direct line from the battery. The factory power lead is ONLY used to trigger the relay.


hmmm, i said the same thing on the page before....



pluck yew said:


> make the two pumps in the surge tank come on with the in-tank pump. use the trigger wire from the in-tank to kick a relay to fire up the 044's. done.


aaaaand, have fun with the wiring of THIS CAR. the NHRA requirements for drag racing, shut off switches, and battery stuff is fun to deal with. since you have two other guys there with you that should know what is up with this, you shouldnt have a problem.

and you dont HAVE to put the battery in the trunk if you dont want to.... no matter WHERE the battery is in the car you still have to have the switch KILL THE ENTIRE CAR. and unless it is wired in a certain way, you will not get this action.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Indeed you did Aaron. 

I agree. The OP needs a copy of the NHRA rule book.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Aaron, just a thought for you...

You could take all your switched inputs, feed them into a simple logic circuit, and have a 'go/ no-go' red/green light that tells you that everything is powered up correctly. 

...keep you from forgetting little things like the awic pump


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## pluck yew (Oct 23, 2011)

yeah.... each switch has its own light too. red=power, blue=fuel, green=AWIC, yellow=fan. it is really only the one switch i can miss, as the fan still runs off the ECU it is just a forced input for it. i have to have the ig and fuel on to start it.

but when you are suiting up, strapping in, window net, parachute clip, neck collar, gloves, helmet, zipped and shut, cameras, windows, etc. some times you miss a step haha.

i missed rolling the driver window up once on a pass. and once also i forgot to latch the trunk, it came up on the pass as well. looked like it was on purpose and a huge wing haha


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## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

Resettable fuses, fighter jet flip switches and bright ass lights.

That reminds me, I have a crap ton of electrical stuff to get rid of.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

toby lawrence said:


> Resettable fuses, fighter jet flip switches and bright ass lights.


Those switches are so cool! Sounds childish, but I love that stuff! :laugh:


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## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

Rod Ratio said:


> Those switches are so cool! Sounds childish, but I love that stuff! :laugh:


Well they're also practical.. best of both worlds.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

toby lawrence said:


> Well they're also practical.. best of both worlds.


True, but I like the whole "fighter jock" feel of that shizz lol


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## pluck yew (Oct 23, 2011)

oh yeah. those things. they are cool.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

pluck yew said:


> aaaaand, have fun with the wiring of THIS CAR. the NHRA requirements for drag racing, shut off switches, and battery stuff is fun to deal with. since you have two other guys there with you that should know what is up with this, you shouldnt have a problem.
> 
> and you dont HAVE to put the battery in the trunk if you dont want to.... no matter WHERE the battery is in the car you still have to have the switch KILL THE ENTIRE CAR. and unless it is wired in a certain way, you will not get this action.


I thought it would make the wiring easier to deal with by mounting it in the trunk with the surge tanks and kill switch back there. I have a few people locally I can ask for help if needed. There are 4 of us on the team. I am getting a much better understanding of how the wiring is going to work now. I have to get some metal to create a bracket to go across the spare wheel well to hold the surge tank in place too.


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## pluck yew (Oct 23, 2011)

last tip.

so you have your battery in the trunk. but you need to get the power thru the switch and to the front of the car. so you will be using a MINIMUM 4 gauge power wire to bring the power up to the front of the car for power distribution, starter, etc. then you need to have circuit breakers up front to protect that wire run.

and you are going to see the problem you face concerning the switch, and charging the battery, etc.

i put the battery back up front in my car, and saved about 45 pounds with removing the old big battery and extra wiring and box, etc.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Battery up front makes things simpler. I'm with mr yew.

I think the electrical system should be drawn up before implementing everything.

I'll start up some drawings


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

I'm with these guys. Battery out back is a road racer thing. It adds complexity, and weight. Two things you try to avoid in a drag car.

Use a lightweight motorcycle battery or similar.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Might be minor, but also adding weight over the front tires.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

That does make more sense. Groggory lets design it for the batter up front, then. It does seem alot less complex. I still want to keep the surge in the trunk though. I do not believe it would fit anywhere else.


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## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

If there's any stuff required for the wiring, I'd be happy to help and/or donate where I can. I could do... LS2 coil adapters, 4-pin connector rubber boots (I have like 700 of these just sitting around, heh), 16ga or 22ga MIL spec wire (in lengths of 7 feet or less, though) and just a bunch of other random stuff.. 4ga/2ga/0ga crimping, bolts and clamps for redoing grounds, etc.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I have 2.0T coil adapters from INA. I have alot of wire connectors. Groggory is getting everything setup for me wiring wise. My father was an electrician by trade, so he has set me up with more then enough connectors, wire and solder. I appreciate you willing to donate some help for me though. I will definately let you know if anything is needed.


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

If you need help wiring, I'm not too far from you. I live in Duluth. :thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I will give you a heads up when I start to get the wiring done. I *HAVE* to have it done in about 6 weeks now to have it ready for SOWO so I will take any help I can get.


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## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

Beat the Heat said:


> I have 2.0T coil adapters from INA. I have alot of wire connectors. Groggory is getting everything setup for me wiring wise. My father was an electrician by trade, so he has set me up with more then enough connectors, wire and solder. I appreciate you willing to donate some help for me though. I will definately let you know if anything is needed.


Good to hear you're well equipped, but I do have a few grand worth of tooling specifically for wiring-related stuff. Crimpers directly from Tyco, MIL-spec crimpers, MIL-spec strippers, MIL-spec heat shrink tubing, etc.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I will let you know if I need anything. :beer:


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

toby lawrence said:


> Good to hear you're well equipped, but I do have a few grand worth of tooling specifically for wiring-related stuff. Crimpers directly from Tyco, MIL-spec crimpers, MIL-spec strippers, MIL-spec heat shrink tubing, etc.


You are set up very nicely. I've got the good stuff too, lol. But sounds like you've got more of it.


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## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

groggory said:


> You are set up very nicely. I've got the good stuff too, lol. But sounds like you've got more of it.


I have +2 miles worth of MIL spec wire for a project I never ended up doing.... I'm looking for any good reason to give it away.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Got some more Pictars!!!

I decided to clean up my oil filter housing. I removed it fairly easily and noticed that the Oil feed line port was stripped. I must have done it last time i reinstalled it. Luckily I have another one from my spare AWP block I got for the stroker kit...Whew!!!










Good housing cleaned up.










Some silicone that i ordered to make the intercooler piping to the SEM Intake Mani.










Battery Disconnect










I could not remember if i put a picture of this up before, but this is the Pro-Imports custom charge pipe for the K04-02X series turbo for use in the MKIV VW's. It cost a pretty penny when I originally got it so I told myself I was going to use it.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Glad to see you are using a real switch not those 5 dollar autozone specials.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I have not cheaped out on anything so far, and I wasn't going to on that either.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

:beer:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Surge tank/mount kit, adjustable fpr and a few other things should be at the house when I get home today. I need to find some metal that I can create a cradle of some sort to mount the surge tank and pumps in the wheel well with some dampening material under it so it does not rattle.


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## nugsgti23 (Nov 21, 2008)

What maf are u going with? I got an s4 maf laying around I could sell ya.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

What cigarette lighter are you running? I've got a nice chrome jobby, from a 79' Ford Crown Vicky that ill let go Fer cheap monies


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I already have an S4 MAF that I am going to use.

Rod Ratio: I appreciate the offer, but I am going to have to decline your offer as it stands. :facepalm:

Surge tank, mount kit and fpr came in today!!! I love getting packages in the mail. It's like christmas all year!!!


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> I already have an S4 MAF that I am going to use.
> 
> Rod Ratio: I appreciate the offer, but I am going to have to decline your offer as it stands. :facepalm:
> 
> Surge tank, mount kit and fpr came in today!!! I love getting packages in the mail. It's like christmas all year!!!


Hey, just thought I'd extend the offer:laugh:

In regards to the new goodies; pics or it didn't happen


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Here is the Aeromotive FPR:










034 Dual surge tank with mount kit. Looks real nice and quality and welding.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Sweet!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am going to be getting 2 60mm billett pump mounts for each pump from 034 and mount it that way in the spare wheel well. I will just use bolts through the sheet metal and bolt it up underneath, this way I am not using any self tapping bolts.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

How much does that surge tank set you back


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Hmmm. With the mount kit about $300 I think.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

What is the easiest way to empty out my fuel tank. I did not think I had that much 93 in the tank, but it is more then half way full. lol


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Disconnect the feed line at the rail, and turn the key? :laugh:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I have everything disconnected right now uncluding most of the wiring. If anything I can syphun it out.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Really your only option aside from dropping the tank.

You could always jump the wires to the factory fuel pump, and get most of it out that way; I think.

Sounds legit


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

That sounds like it could work. 

Monday the car is being plastic dipped matte black by a good friend of mine. There is going to be a thin blue line theme on the car with the front and rear bumper. Hopefully by the following week I will have the FFE wide body front end, so I can get that dipped as well. We are doing it in my driveway.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

OMG!! The wife is gonna lose it man! :laugh:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Na, she is cool right now. If I end up spending any more money, that is a different story.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I picked up the plastic dip sprayer from my buddy after work today. Monday as long as the weather is nice, I am going to give this a whirl. Wish me luck.  I am going to order 1 gallon of glossifier and 1 gallon of matte clear, in an attempt to make a satin finish after I put the matte finish on.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am getting ready to order my 10AN push lock fuel line. Do you think 7 meters will be enough for the supply and return line?


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Should be; as a meter is a little more than a yard. I would use a take measure to confirm.

10AN is ludicrous on the supply side tho. Why not bring that down to 8AN feed, and 10AN return?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I was thinking it would be easier since everything I am getting has 10an fittings. Less fittings to buy. Would probably save me some money.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Might as well then. Thought it would be the inverse


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Right now I am all about saving some $$$. Atleast this way, I will not have to change anything with the fuel system down the road.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Well, you're effectively building a 1500 hp fueling system. I'd say you're good! :laugh:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Yes, I do believe I should be alright.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

The plastic dipping of my car from beginning to kinda the end. I had to stop for the day. I will put the final 2 coats on tomorrow. That is the nice thing about Plastic Dip, you can put another coat on later if you need to.

Enjoy!!!





































First Coat




























Fourth Coat




























After the fourth coat i used a little over a gallon of plastic dip. I plan on doing about 2 more coats and probably about another 1/2 gallon of plastic dip.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I got one more coat on tonight. Looks much better and is finally starting to smooth out nicely. One thing I learned is you HAVE to take your time with this stuff. If you put on too heavy or too light it will mess up pretty easily. Trial and error were my friends today.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

They say that about 5-6 coats of that stuff is ideal.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

I mean to each their own, but why did you dip your car? You had a really nice paint job on it, it's not like it was all banged up. And why did you paint the tails? They were already smoked


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

With Gwinnett's Beat the Heat chapter all of our cars have to be similar. That is black with emergency lights and the same sheriff's emblems. I painted the tails because all I have to do is peal off the plastic dip. It actually comes off the car rather easily. The misted dip that got on the windows you can get off by rubbing it with a rag. I will post a picture after I apply the final 2 coats today.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

I also can't believe you dipped a nice GLI like that. I guess it is cheaper than wrapping the whole car in vinyl


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

$200 in plastic dip and a few re do's due to not knowing what I was doing at first. Much cheaper then a $3k vinyl wrap. There are still a few ruff spots on the side of the car, but I kinda of like it. Gives it a neat textured look. I redid the roof and rear trunk. Those were the worst spots. Took me 5 min to peel it off.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I got a call from the machine shop today. Block is done and ready to rock'n'roll!!!! I will be picking it up tomorrow after work, ready to start putting it back together.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

:thumbup::thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I also got a call from Eurotech Performance Group this evening. Transmission will be ready with the LSD and upgraded USP shift fork next week along with the AEB head with Martindale cams from Doug(Frankenturbo).


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

Looks like things are moving along nicely...:beer:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am hoping to have the engine built by the beginning of next week. Hopefully I did not overlook something, but you know how that goes. Murphy's law.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Picked up the assembled block today. Bill Brady in Auburn, Georgia is an awesome engine builder!!!! He builds stuff to race, plain and simple. He told me this was the smoothest turning block he ever built and complimented all of the components I went with. I will have pictures up by the end of the weekend.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Since I am going to be putting the engine back in within the next week or two I have a couple questions. I deleted the Air conditioning and washer fluid bottle. Do I need to resistor anything with those so I do not get any codes thrown? I know there is a sensor near the fire wall for the ac and there is a sensor in the washer bottle. It makes sense to resistor them, so I only need to deal with codes thrown by the engine itself not anything else.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I also found out something very interesting with plastic dip. If you spray it and it comes out real rough due to over spray or it being too thick, instead of removing everything you sprayed. Take some 2000 grit sand paper and wet sand it down and add a couple smooth coats on top of it. It saves alot of time having to respray all 6 coats.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)




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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I disagree....There is alot of informative stuff inside of this thread besides pictures of my awesome build.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Cool Story Bro 

Where are the engine pics that you said you'd post?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I haven't had time to take any pictures yet. I am getting the house back in order from a painter, roofer and termite inspector. Been a bad week.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

It happens man. Just spent the entire day beginning a full gut of an 1860's house that I just bought.. Fun, it wasn't.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I should have pics of the block Sunday. On another note, I am going to get rid of the optima and replace it with a braille.


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## spartiati (May 19, 2008)

Beat the Heat said:


> I should have pics of the blgreatunday. On another note, I am going to get rid of the optima and replace it with a braille.


Save your money and get a deka. Much cheaper and still a great lightweight agm battery. 

Tristatebatteries.com is where I got mine from. I used an etx18l but stepped up to the etx30l for my daily.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

I'm with spartiatti. Deka FTW:beer:


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Deka is the supplies for Braille and others, so might as well save a few bucks and get them directly from the source.

Personally, I won't run that junk in my car unless I run a trickle charger. I had to constantly recharge it (at least every 2 months if not sooner) and the couple of lbs of weight wasn't worth it to me so went back to normal sized battery :thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I wouldn't be getting one if they were not helping me out in some way. My budget is ZERO right now until i work some more part time jobs.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am going to be getting USRT's battery mount for the braille as well. Direct bolt on and secure.  I will also be ordering the fuel line and AN fittings from them as well. I still need to find a fuel filter though. I was looking at Weldon. They have a real nice one. 100 or 120 micron I believe.

I finally figured out how I am going to mount the dual surge tank. I am getting 2 60mm fuel pump brackets from 034 to mount the pumps the the floor of the wheel well. This way the surge tank will be kinda gravity feeding the two surge pumps and it will look pretty cool opening up the trunk and seeing it there. Just need to find some long bolts to bolt it through the sheet metal. Do not worry I will not be using any self tappers. Bolted all the way with lock washers on either side.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Make sure to keep your fuel setup legal per nhra rulebook


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I have to look into that. I am waiting on my captain to take care of our nhra stuff. There is some special thing we have to do due us being a non-profit educational racing program. All i know is we do ET racing.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Some things I do need to keep in mind though:

4:5 GROUND CLEARANCE
Minimum 3 inches from front of car to 12 inches behind centerline
of front axle; 2 inches for remainder of car, except oil pan and
exhaust headers where permitted. When permitted under Class
Requirements, devices used for anti-rotation purposes (i.e., wheelie
bars) are exempt from the 2-inch clearance rule.

In Super Stock and Stock, the leading and trailing edges of fender
openings may be trimmed for tire clearance, maximum 2 inches.
All vehicles in all classes must have re-rolled or beaded edges on
altered fenders. Flaring or spreading external fender lines
prohibited, except as noted in Class Requirements. Front fenders
may not be “drooped” on full-fendered car except as noted in
Class Requirements.

All batteries must be securely mounted; must be of sufficient
capacity to start vehicle at any time. Batteries may not be relocated
into the driver or passenger compartments. Rear firewall of .024-
inch steel or .032-inch aluminum (including package tray) required
when battery is relocated in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall, battery
may be located in a sealed .024-inch steel, .032-inch aluminum, or
NHRA-accepted poly box. If sealed box is used in lieu of rear
firewall, box may not be used to secure battery and must be vented
outside of body. Relocated battery(s) must be fastened to frame or
frame structure with a minimum of two 3/8-inch-diameter bolts.
OEM located batteries without complete OEM hold-down hardware
must be secured to OEM battery box/tray using the same 3/8-inchdiameter
bolt hold-down method described in previous sentence.
(“J” hooks prohibited or must have open end welded shut.) Metal
battery hold-down straps mandatory. Strapping tape prohibited. A
maximum of two automobile batteries, or 150 pounds combined
maximum weight (unless otherwise specified in Class
Requirements), is permitted. Maximums may vary according to
Class Requirements.

Each car in competition must have a positive-action on/off switch,
capable of de-energizing the entire ignition system, in good working
order, located within easy reach of the driver. “Momentary contact”
switch prohibited. Magneto “kill button”-type switches are prohibited.
All ignition systems and/or components wiring harnesses and
attachments must utilize those supplied by the ignition system
manufacturer. The wiring harness must be used in an unaltered
manner consistent with the manufacturer’s installation and
instruction books.
All removable or pin-type timing devices are prohibited.
The use of any programmable multi-point rev limiter and/or a rateof-
acceleration rpm limiter, either by themselves (e.g., MSD 7561)
or integrated into the ignition system (e.g., MSD 7531), are
prohibited in NHRA competition

Mandatory when battery is relocated, or as outlined in Class
Requirements. An electrical power cutoff switch (one only) must be
installed on the rearmost part of each vehicle and be easily
accessible from outside the car body. This cutoff switch must be
connected to the positive side of the electrical system and must
stop all electrical functions including magneto ignition. The off
position must be clearly indicated with the word “OFF.” If switch is
“push/pull” type, “push” must be the action for shutting off the
electrical system, “pull” to turn it on. Any rods or cables used to
activate the switch must be minimum 1/8-inch diameter. Plastic or
keyed switches prohibited. Switches and/or controls must be
located behind rear wheels on rear-engine dragsters.
General Regulations


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## RodgertheRabit II (Sep 13, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> $200 in plastic dip and a few re do's due to not knowing what I was doing at first. Much cheaper then a $3k vinyl wrap.


Just read this, a tad off topic but $3k for a matte black wrap is Highway robbery!!!  It should only be more like $1500-2000 for a car your size.:thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

1:5 FUEL SYSTEMS
Location: All fuel tanks, lines, pumps, valves, etc. must be outside
of the driver’s compartment and within the confines of the frame
and/or steel body. Cool cans, fuel-distribution blocks, etc. must be
located at least 6 inches forward of the flywheel/bellhousing area on
rear-wheel-drive (RWD) vehicles, and on opposite side of
flywheel/housing area on front-wheel-drive (FWD) vehicles. Fuel
pressure gauge isolators, with steel braided line, may be mounted
on firewall.
Tanks: When permitted by class regulations, fuel tanks located
outside body and/or frame must be enclosed in a steel tube frame
constructed of minimum 1 1/4-inch O.D. x .058 chromoly or .118
mild steel tubing. All fuel tanks must be isolated from the driver’s
compartment by a firewall, completely sealed to prevent any fuel
from entering the driver’s compartment. All fuel tanks must have a
pressure cap and be vented outside of body. A positive-locking
screw-on fuel tank cap is mandatory on all open-bodied cars.
Insulated fuel tanks prohibited. When used, fuel cells must have a
metal box protecting the part of the fuel cell that is outside of body
lines or trunk floor, excluding hose connection area in rear. Nonmetallic
fuel cells or tanks must be grounded to frame.
Lines: All non-OEM fuel lines (including gauge and/or data
recorder lines) must be metallic, steel braided, or NHRA-accepted
“woven or woven-pushlock.” A maximum of 12 inches total (front to
rear) of non-metallic or non-steel braided hose is permitted for
connection purposes only; individual injector nozzle and motorcycle
fuel lines are excluded. Fuel lines (except steel braided lines) in the
flywheel/bellhousing area must be enclosed in a 16-inch length of
steel tubing, 1/8-inch-minimum wall thickness, securely mounted as
a protection against fuel-line rupture. Fuel lines may not be routed
in the driveshaft tunnel. It is mandatory that fuel lines passing
supercharger drive belts be steel braided, NHRA-accepted woven
or woven-pushlock, or be enclosed in protective steel tubing. A
current list of NHRA-accepted woven or woven-pushlock fuel lines
is available on NHRA.com. All NHRA-accepted fuel lines must use
ends that are specifically designed for the type of fuel line being
used. No hose clamps allowed on NHRA-accepted fuel lines.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I was actually told between 2000-2500. My exact thoughts were. hmmmmmm NO. I tell you what, I am real impressed with plastic dip. It comes out real smooth when done right and seems like it will hold up real well.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Groggory, I hope that helps you out a little bit.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

You were talking about a big gravity fed thing . Earlier you were talking about locking it all down in the wheel well.

Just wanted to make sure you were keeping mandates in mind


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

It is going to be mounted like this with the tank on top:

http://www.034motorsport.com/oscthu...1ab5a4f8a869f/src/images/DualFuelPumpKit3.jpg

I am using 2 brackets to mount the actual pumps to the tire well floor with the tank like it is in this picture.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Are you following the NHRA rule book?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

The big gotcha here is the back seat I don't think counts as a firewall. So you need to follow the no fueling in the passenger cabin rule to a tee


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am working on that. I have an idea to replace the rear seats with 1/4 inch sheet metal riveted in place where the seat would be.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Isn't that gonna weigh alot?


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## Three3Se7en (Jul 2, 2007)

.25" thick steel is pretty darn heavy. 

Perhaps something like 18 gauge?


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

1/4" is waay too thick. 

Read the rule book, and just do what's required. NHRA has the most stringent safety regulations in all of Motorsport. Don't go overkill where it isn't required.

An appropriate shield would likely weigh 20lbs max. What you just proposed would weigh 300lbs lol


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Yea you are right.. haha!!! That would weigh a ton.

The pain in the butt part would be cutting it to the shape of what the seat used to be. Riveting isn't that difficult once you get the holes drilled.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> Yea you are right.. haha!!! That would weigh a ton.
> 
> The pain in the butt part would be cutting it to the shape of what the seat used to be. Riveting isn't that difficult once you get the holes drilled.


Not difficult at all..

Make cardboard template(s) until you get it absolutely perfect. Then use said template to trace the exact shape onto the appropriate gauge metal. Use powered shears to cut it to shape. Use the same template to mark where you're going to install the 1/4 turn dzus fasteners, and mounting bosses onto both the sheet metal, and the interior tin.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Dude, buy a damn NHRA rule book before you buy/do anything else..

If not; you're in for a nasty, and expensive surprise at tech inspection.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Rod Ratio said:


> Dude, buy a damn NHRA rule book before you buy/do anything else..
> 
> If not; you're in for a nasty, and expensive surprise at tech inspection.


X2

Also, why go through all that trouble for a rear firewall. Fit all your stuff in the wheel well and cap it off with some aluminum sheet and some dzus fasteners


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

That definitely is something I will do tomorrow. I really do not want to do any unneeded work. You mean fit in the spare wheel well and just cover it with sheet metal? Makes more sense and less work.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Beat the Heat said:


> That definitely is something I will do tomorrow. I really do not want to do any unneeded work. You mean fit in the spare wheel well and just cover it with sheet metal? Makes more sense and less work.


That's what I'm thinkin

The nhra rules specify the minimum gauges for both aluminum and steel


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

When I get home from work tomorrow I will download the pdf of the rule book and check it all out.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> That definitely is something I will do tomorrow. I really do not want to do any unneeded work. You mean fit in the spare wheel well and just cover it with sheet metal? Makes more sense and less work.


Read the rule book before you do ANYTHING..

That's how race cars are built; per the rule book.

Make it how you want, and as efficient as possible within the guidelines. It's as simple as that.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I already know I cannot slam it, since the front bumper HAS to be atleast 3 inches off the ground. I do not need a roll cage since I will not be running that fast yet. I am setting up the adjustable fpr on the fire wall on the opposite side of the transmission like it says. I am still going to order my kirkey racing seats, but I do need something to mount the harness to. Technically I do not need a stop switch in the back since I am not moving the battery, but I want to do it anyway.

I need to find out what the ET super stock class requirements are. I don't think I can run in the stock class due to changing the displacement of the engine and larger turbo than stock. I will find out tomorrow though.

To save some money and time with the fuel line, I am going to go with 6AN fuel line and 8AN return. I have been doing research and that should be good for my hp goals now and in the future. I have figured out that I also need to consider what line I use due to running E85. I may end up going with PTFE fuel line so the E85 will not have a negative effect on the line over time. I will just need adapters to the 10AN connections.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I will not lie, when I first started this build I was naive to what needed to be done to make it right. I thought I was going to put the turbo in, lower it, put some slicks on it and roll out. Little did I know.......


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Just make sure that what you do do now is in preparation for the future. 

Ie. setup the fuel system to 10second guidelines; since its essentially a 10 second fuel system. 

In other words whatever you're doing; do it once.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I understand that completely. That is what I plan on doing. I want to set the fuel system up to handle 800 hp and from the information that I have gathered the 6an supply and 8an return will accomplish that. I was also told having the 6an supply to the 10an rail will help keep the pressure up and be more consistent for the injectors.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

My brain is fried right now!!!! I just got done reading through the rule book. I think off the bat, I will be better suited to run in the Pro ET class. Due to running 3 fuel pumps and running non oem style fenders that accommodate much wider tires the only other class I can run in is the altered 4 cylinder class. In the altered class I would HAVE to run a roll cage though no matter what time I run. I do not have the time this year to make that happen. In the Pro Et which is goes from 11.00 round about up to 13.99, it will allow me to initially get the feel for racing. We normally race ET Handicap in Beat the Heat anyway.

This is in regards to the sheet metal:
A complete bulkhead of at least .024- inch steel or .032-inch aluminum is required to isolate driver compartment from trunk when you have any kind of fuel tank in the trunk area.

It also says I will need drive line loops. I will have to follow up to see if this is for rear wheel drive only.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

That's 1/10 the thickness of what you wanted lol

Driveline hoops are for RWD/AWD ONLY.. Does not apply to you


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Yea 32/100 is only a little thinner. lol

I thought I might be able to run in the super stock class. The boring would not have been an issue, but the increased stroke and bearing clearances would have gotten me as well. That and the zero balance with the clutch/flywheel would have gotten me.By 2014 I should be ready to race in the Altered AA/DX FWD Class.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I FINALLY got the block out of the truck and onto the stand. Who would have known that my Tundra was the perfect height to just slide it out and right onto the stand. I have almost everything installed back on the block except for the rear main and oil pan. Everything went very smoothly. Now I am just waiting on the block and tranny to come back, which hopefully will be this week. Enjoy the pictures:


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Coming together nicely :thumbup:

Small suggestion, if you want to open up the oil pump pickup tube for better flow:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

What did you use to open it up more?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

18T_BT said:


> Coming together nicely :thumbup:
> 
> Small suggestion, if you want to open up the oil pump pickup tube for better flow:


I don't think there's a flow issue with the stock pickup. If anything, the stock pickup reaches deeper into the pan to reduce the chance of oil starvation. That mod cuts the tip of the 'cone' off


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

A dremel tool would work lovely or something similar. Remove it while you do it and flush it good when you're done...


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Ahhh, oh ok. I will think about it. You make a good point about it reaching deeper into the pan.

Don't those 83mm Mahle Power Pak Pistons look pretty!!!!! I do think so!!! My wife will be happy to see not as much stuff laying around on the floor in the days to come.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

They do look purty.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

I wouldn't cut it, you can pull it open with pliers if anything making it even closer to the pan to reduce starvation. From factory the bottom opening is turned in and flat and Aaron pulled the flatness out and brought it out and down so it'll actually be and larger opening and closer to the pan :thumbup:


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

18T_BT said:


> I wouldn't cut it, you can pull it open with pliers if anything making it even closer to the pan to reduce starvation. From factory the bottom opening is turned in and flat and Aaron pulled the flatness out and brought it out and down so it'll actually be and larger opening and closer to the pan :thumbup:


I just have a gut feeling that that restricted opening is designed that way for some reason. I mean, they purposefully tapered it down when they knowingly had enough material to open it up. Also, that opening from the factory looks like its about the same size as the pickup tube. They purposefully flared it out so they could put a bigger screen on it to improve flow.

I dunno, I feel like the factory pickup tube was designed pretty well by those engineers in Germany and I personally don't think I'll be modifying my pickup tube. But then again, I have been wrong many times in my life.


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

18T_BT said:


> I wouldn't cut it, you can pull it open with pliers if anything making it even closer to the pan to reduce starvation. From factory the bottom opening is turned in and flat and Aaron pulled the flatness out and brought it out and down so it'll actually be and larger opening and closer to the pan :thumbup:


Nice...Thanks for pointing that out. I looks cut at first glance..


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I thought it was cut out as well. The rear main seal is a royal pain in the butt. Every time I place the plastic piece on the crank and attempt to slide it on, the dang thing either won't slide or the seal gets pressed the wrong way. I oiled that bad boy good too. Both the crank and seal. Eh, I will give it another whirl tomorrow. I just do not want to mess up the seal. Everything was moving along real smooth too. Oh and that crank bolt.....What a mother it was to give it that 1/4 turn after the 66 ft/lb. I was jumping on that bar. lolol


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Beat the Heat said:


> I thought it was cut out as well. The rear main seal is a royal pain in the butt. Every time I place the plastic piece on the crank and attempt to slide it on, the dang thing either won't slide or the seal gets pressed the wrong way. I oiled that bad boy good too. Both the crank and seal. Eh, I will give it another whirl tomorrow. I just do not want to mess up the seal. Everything was moving along real smooth too. Oh and that crank bolt.....What a mother it was to give it that 1/4 turn after the 66 ft/lb. I was jumping on that bar. lolol


Here's the pricey tool to put it on
http://www.samstagsales.com/vwaudi.htm#crankshaft

I was told that the seal holder it came with should be used for installation.

either that or get the old style spring rolled type


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I was trying to use the holder to install it and well it didn't work very well. The older style would be nice, but I will give it another whirl tomorrow. I want to get it on along with the oil pan tomorrow. I may run out and pick up the head just so I can get it on. I would hate to have to make the 2 hour round trip twice to pick up the tranny next week though, but I may have to.


----------



## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Braille battery came in yesterday. It looks real nice. I should have a picture of it up soon.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I got some good news today. The transmission is done, so on Tuesday I will be going to pick it up on my off day. That means next week I will be trying to get the engine back in the car.


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

Beat the Heat said:


> I got some good news today. The transmission is done, so on Tuesday I will be going to pick it up on my off day. That means next week I will be trying to get the engine back in the car.


:thumbup: Glad things are moving along for ya...it's too bad your off days are Mon and Tue.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I hear you on the off days, but it comes with the job. Hopefully soon I will be able to have a weekend day off soon. I am just looking forward to getting this thing going.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I have been doing some brain storming and talking to some people. I think I am going to use 6AN supply with 8AN return. I have been told by a reliable source that it will support up to 1200hp running that setup. It will be easier to route around everything too. 

I finally have all of the NHRA rules and regulations squared away now and know what I need to fix and change. All that is left is putting everything back together. I could not pick anything up on Tuesday. I was sick as a dog. I had a migraine that put me out of commission for the day. Friday I a hoping to get out there after work and next week if all goes well I will begin assembling the rest of the engine. 

I just need to find a company willing to help me out with race engine mounts and fuel line. Hopefully I will be able to find someone willing to help me out with that stuff. Crossing my fingers.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

FFE has solid mounts


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I was looking at those. They look pretty nice, but I still need to get the actual VF Mounts.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> I was looking at those. They look pretty nice, but I still need to get the actual VF Mounts.


 I have a PM coming your way :beer:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Looking forward to it!!! I will be sitting around all night at work tonight.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

My emergency strobes came in today too. Hooked them up to a jumper and man they are bright!!!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

AP Tuning is helping me with a gti hood, so I will be ordering that next week. I should be getting the FFE Race Front End soon. I cannot wait to see what it looks like. As this past week passed, I ended up working some overtime during a warrant sweep, so I will have to get the head and tranny Tuesday because I have a part time job Monday. Gotta work to pay for this bad boy though, since the wife cut me off from using my normal pay. lol 

The undercover LED strobes I got fit perfectly inside the high beam slot in the head light too. My plan is to run to low beam bulbs on a switch while running a resistor to keep the ohms down to keep the bulb from over powering the strobes. Thanks to Rodgers Retrofits for the gutted gti head lights.  

Groggory I plan on putting this light switch for the head lights on the same panel as the others. The strobes all have the same built in light pattern as well, so there is no need for a pattern selector; just a switch for powa!!! I do have to figure out where I want to put the 2 other undercoer LED strobes. Front bumper or maybe the side fender??? I am thinking the front fenders.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Well....I actually got a lot accomplished today. I got the bushes and hedges trimmed. I laid 15 bails of pine stray. I cleaned up the house, vacuumed and steam mopped. I had the honey do list from you know where. Now time for the good stuff...... 

I picked up the head and transmission today. Transmission had a Peloquin LSD and USP upgraded shift forks installed. The AEB head had Martindale cams from Doug at Frankenturbo installed. I got the head installed on the block, set the timing and put the timing belt on. I thought since I had some down time I would get my undercoler LED's installed in my headlights and put them on the front clip and hooke them up to a battery and look killer!!! Enjoy the pics!!! 





































Time for the lights!!! Sorry for the grainy video, but they are nice and bright!!!


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

:thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I also put the Relentless exhaust mani on too. I did not have time to take a picture.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

We went to Southern Nationals this weekend with our 502 Inpala, Stroked Fox Body Mustang and Stroked gsxr1000. Has an awesome time and met the track car inspector. I decided to pick his mind about a few things and learned a lot about the things I was asking about on here. I do need to get a single layer jacket and snell 2012 certified helmet. Found a 5 point harness at summit racing that he recommended that is $69 too. So this week when I get my part time check I am heading to Mcdonough to get a few things. I am also looking into a cage as well. Better safe then sorry. I won't need a nhra certified cage unless I am running fast as heck, so I am looking at an auto power weld in cage. Just some added safety. 

Southern Nationals in Atlanta was a wash out this year. Today at 11 they called the whole weekend and rescheduled everything for this Friday/Sat. 

Turbo should be back on the block by Tuesday. Getting another new rear main Monday. Friend is coming over the following week with engine lift. I am getting 2 3ft 6x6 to stand the engine on to install the clutch and flywheel along with the tranny. So hopefully next week the engine and tranny will be back in the engine bay.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

I would recommend a 6 point over a 5 point harness


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I will have to see what Summit has. I am going down there this week.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> I would recommend a 6 point over a 5 point harness


 And why is that?


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> And why is that?


 Because if you are ever in an accident the 6 point is more secure with the thigh wrap. In addition i personally wouldnt want my junk to be the first thing to meet that single strap in the center either. You won't see any nascar teams running 5 point


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Today I am going to find some sheet metal to seal off the trunk and I think I am going to order my Kirkey Racing Seat as well along with the harness and single layer jacket. I will be installing the F23 later today as well.  Pictures to come!!!!


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

:thumbup::beer: for progress


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## Ken's Mom (Jan 23, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> I would recommend a 6 point over a 5 point harness


  



Marcus_Aurelius said:


> And why is that?


 why IS this? 



formerly silveratljetta said:


> Because if you are ever in an accident the 6 point is more secure with the thigh wrap. In addition i personally wouldnt want my junk to be the first thing to meet that single strap in the center either. You won't see any nascar teams running 5 point


 that is odd, as see down below 



Beat the Heat said:


> Today I am going to find some sheet metal to seal off the trunk and I think I am going to order my Kirkey Racing Seat as well along with the harness and single layer jacket. I will be installing the F23 later today as well.  Pictures to come!!!!


 so he wants a Kirkey seat, that has only a single opening for a harness. so a 6 point is automatically only a 5 point anyways. and does about a much good as tits on a Boar Hog in this case. 

and you should try to find you a nice cheap helmet, to keep costs down. they also allow M - 2010 and M - 2005 helmets. the M-2005 is good until 2017. 

*



10:7 HELMET 
As outlined under Class Requirements, drivers in all classes, including motorcycles, must wear a helmet meeting Snell or SFI 
Specifications. 

SFI Spec 31.1A = Snell SA, open-face helmet 
SFI Spec 31.2A = Snell SA full-face helmet 
SFI Spec 41.1A = Snell M, open-face helmet 
SFI Spec 41.2A = Snell M full-face helmet 

Full-face helmet mandatory on all cars 9.99 or quicker. See individual Class Requirements for additional requirements. Shield mandatory 7.49 and quicker. 

Drivers of NHRA Lucas Oil Drag Racing Series and E.T. cars (13.99 or quicker) must use a helmet meeting Snell SA2000, M2000, SA2005, M2005, M2010, or SFI 31.1A, 31.2A, 31.1/2005, 41.1A, 41.2A, or 41.1/2005 Specs. Drivers in supercharged, front-engine, open-bodied cars and Funny Cars must wear a helmet meeting Snell SA2000, SA2005 or SFI 31.1A, 31.2A, or 31.1/2005 Specs. 
See Class Requirements. 

NHRA Helmet Expiration Dates 

Label Expires 
Snell 2000 1/1/2012 
Snell 2005 1/1/2017 
Snell 2010 1/1/2022 
SFI 31.1A 1/1/2014 
SFI 31.2A 1/1/2014 

Label Expires 
SFI 41.1A 1/1/2014 
SFI 41.2A 1/1/2014 
SFI 31.1/2005 1/1/2017 
SFI 41.1/2005 1/1/2017 
SFI 24.1 (JDRL only) 1/1/2015 
SFI 24.1/2005 1/1/2017 

Structural modifications to helmet/shield are prohibited. Cutting of helmet or helmet shield prohibited. Helmet must remain as manufactured, except for paint scheme/graphics and permitted nonstructural driver modifications to helmet shield as set forth below. 

Taping or similar modifications to the helmet shield made by the driver that reduce the driver’s field of vision, and are deemed safe by driver in the driver’s judgment, are permitted at this time so long as the driver can demonstrate to technical inspectors that the purpose of the modification is to reduce distraction in the driver’s field of vision. By using such a modification to the helmet shield, the driver acknowledges and agrees that the driver deems such modification safe in the driver’s judgment consistent with the driver’s obligations in Section 1, Participant Agreements and 

Administrative and Procedural Rules, set forth above, and that the modification does not impair or interfere with the safe operation of the driver’s vehicle. See General Regulations 7:8.

Click to expand...

* and: 

*



Here are the bracket rules 

HELMET 
For all 10.00 to 13.99 closed-bodied cars, either an open-face or a full-face Snell M2000, M2005, M2010, K2005, SA2000, SA2005, 
SFI 31.1A, 31.1/2005, 31.2A, 41.1A, 41.1/2005, or 41.2A helmet with or without a shield is mandatory. 

For all 10.00 and slower dune-buggy-type vehicles and all 10.00 to 13.99 open-bodied front-engine or rear-engine supercharged, 
turbocharged, nitrous, or naturally aspirated cars, a full-face Snell M2000, M2005, M2010, K2005, SA2000, SA2005, SFI 31.2A, or 
41.2A helmet and shield mandatory (goggles prohibited). 

For all 9.99 and quicker closed-bodied cars, a full-face Snell M2000, M2005, M2010, K2005, SA2000, SA2005, SFI 31.2A, or 41.2A 
helmet mandatory; shield permitted (goggles prohibited). 

For all 9.99 and quicker open-bodied front-engine or rear-engine supercharged, turbocharged, or nitrous cars, a full-face Snell 
SA2000, SA2005, or SFI 31.2A helmet and shield mandatory (goggles prohibited). 

For all 9.99 or quicker open-bodied front-engine or rear-engine naturally aspirated cars, a full-face Snell M2000, M2005, M2010, 
K2005, SA2000, SA2005, SFI 31.2A, or 41.2A helmet and shield mandatory (goggles prohibited). See General Regulations 10:7.

Click to expand...

* all of that said, the guy i know who races gets his helmets from www.motorcyclecloseouts.com they are cheap and nice. 

like this one. just make sure it says SNELL 2005 or SNELL 2010 and you will be good for awhile. 

http://www.motorcyclecloseouts.com/insanity/2917


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I want to get a M2012 helmet, this way I am good up until 2022 on its certification. Will save me some money in the long run.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Things worked out quite well today. F23 came in from Frankenturbo. Looks killer!!! Got some 
interesting stuff going on with it, so stay tuned on that part. Turbo is installed. Cam sensor is installed along with the up-pipe adapter from Pro-Imports back in the day. Valve cover is installed along with the spark plugs, gapped to .35, and 2.0T coils with INA adapters. The new rear main installed like a charm. It was a piece of cake. Enjoy the pictures.


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## spartiati (May 19, 2008)

Make sure you plug up that EGT probe port on the hotside. 

Also I Would tighten up that gap if you plan on running High Boost. .035 is pretty big for > 20psi. 
Try it but if you get breakups tighten it up to .028 or tighter if necessary.


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

I would go ahead and check/verify that the wastegate crack pressure is correct...


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I still have to hook up all the coolant and oil lines to the turbo. I will tighten the EGT plug then. I figured I would try a higher gap with the coils on this setup. Like you said, if it does not work sufficiently I will tighten up the gap.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Doug preset the waste gate pressure to 12 psi. Oh the F23 has been ported on the hot side as well. I meant to take a picture, but was too excited to get it installed. Haha!!!


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

Beat the Heat said:


> Doug preset the waste gate pressure to 12 psi. Oh the F23 has been ported on the hot side as well. I meant to take a picture, but was too excited to get it installed. Haha!!!


 You can't trust the preset. You need to verify it for yourself. No disrespect towards Doug but *lots* of people have reported that the wastegate wasn't set up properly. My FT wastegate didn't start to crack until 20 psi when I got even though it said different on the box. This is one of the reasons tuning companies say they can't make a file that controls boost for a FT without a MBC because the wastegates crack pressure are all over the place and not consistent. It would save you some headache to do it now while the engine is out of the car... Trust but verify...


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## lorge1989 (Sep 3, 2008)

spartiati said:


> Make sure you plug up that EGT probe port on the hotside.
> 
> Also I Would tighten up that gap if you plan on running High Boost. .035 is pretty big for > 20psi.
> Try it but if you get breakups tighten it up to .028 or tighter if necessary.


 .035 is fine. I ran .042 with the red coilpacks @ 20 PSI on a 30R. At about 22 psi was when I had to bring the gap in.


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## spartiati (May 19, 2008)

lorge1989 said:


> .035 is fine. I ran .042 with the red coilpacks @ 20 PSI on a 30R. At about 22 psi was when I had to bring the gap in.


 Its more problematic when trying to run higher timing advances. If your only getting into the 15-18* range you are likely OK. I hit 20* just past boost onset and 24-26* by red line. For me it has to be .025 even with my d585 coil conversion with higher dwell times.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am going to be pushing the turbo pretty hard. Not sure what boost I am going to be running, but I will probably increment it up pretty high to see what it can do. I have the engine built to handle some nasty power and hopefully produce some nasty numbers for the F23.  

I am gong to Autozone today to pick up a thermostat and a dealer tomorrow to pick up some banjo fittings and crush washers for the turbo. I must have misplaced them somewhere. I will finish plastic dipping the body of the car today. Had to wet sand some rough spots. As soon as the FFE front end comes in, it is getting sprayed and installed as well. What I am hoping for is in 2 weeks I can fire this thing up for the first time since last fall.


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

spartiati said:


> Its more problematic when trying to run higher timing advances. If your only getting into the 15-18* range you are likely OK. I hit 20* just past boost onset and 24-26* by red line. For me it has to be .025 even with my d585 coil conversion with higher dwell times.


 I agree. I have to run .026 on the red coils at 25spi with higher advance. Plus if this is a drag build he should be running at least 25-30psi which would blow out 0.35 in my experience.


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

Beat the Heat said:


> I am going to be pushing the turbo pretty hard. Not sure what boost I am going to be running, but I will probably increment it up pretty high to see what it can do. I have the engine built to handle some nasty power and hopefully produce some nasty numbers for the F23.
> 
> I am gong to Autozone today to pick up a thermostat and a dealer tomorrow to pick up some banjo fittings and crush washers for the turbo. I must have misplaced them somewhere. I will finish plastic dipping the body of the car today. Had to wet sand some rough spots. As soon as the FFE front end comes in, it is getting sprayed and installed as well. What I am hoping for is in 2 weeks I can fire this thing up for the first time since last fall.


 Don't you have a good euro parts store around you. I would buy a tstat from them instead of autozone. The quality control on Tstats suck bad(especially on cheap ones) and I definitely would want a quality tstat over a autozone part.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Closest place is about 1.5 hour drive. Eurotech Performance Group, who did my tranny and head. I may just order it. I am having to get new banjo bolts and washers for the turbo, but ECS does not seem to have the banjo bolt for the oil feed on the turbo.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

If any of you guys have the part number for the oil feed banjo bolt on the turbo let me know. I need it asap.


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

Beat the Heat said:


> Closest place is about 1.5 hour drive. Eurotech Performance Group, who did my tranny and head. I may just order it. I am having to get new banjo bolts and washers for the turbo, but ECS does not seem to have the banjo bolt for the oil feed on the turbo.


 FYI...Marietta foreign autoparts is in close to Eurotech if you need parts in the future. I understand its still 1.5hrs away from you but they would be a better source for parts as they supply places like EPG. As a matter of fact if you call them they may have the part number for the banjo bolt.


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## lorge1989 (Sep 3, 2008)

Or check Napa. They sometimes have good ins on German made parts. Even for my MK2.


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

Beat the Heat said:


> If any of you guys have the part number for the oil feed banjo bolt on the turbo let me know. I need it asap.


 I know I have a few banjos and what not in my parts bin, but I can't be for sure it's one that'll work for you. You're more then welcome to come by and look.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

The oil feed is the smaller of the banjo bolts. I believe it is M12.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I just got some good news in the past few days. My search for a FMIC setup is now over. I contacted ATP Turbo and they are helping me out with a Garrett 500hp intercooler and Al over at Pag Parts is making me some custom intercooler pipes to go along with it. The setup should be killer!!!

*Big shout out to Al over at Pag Parts and ATP Turbo for helping out an awesome program!!!*


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Last night I was tightening the banjo bolts for my Stasis brakes and snapped one of the dang banjo bolts that came with the Goodridge ss lines. I am hoping that the OEM banjo will work for the time being. I am also replacing the clutch line with a stainless one from USP. I am assuming that it connects right below the resevoir. That is atleast what it looks like. Prepping for the engine install this coming week.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Garrett Intercooler came in today from ATP. It immediately was taken to the UPS store and shipped up to Pag Parts for the piping and mounting fabrication to be taken care of. Thanks again Al!!

Fuel pumps came in today as well from Frankenturbo to go with my 034 surge tank. No pics yet, sorry guys!!


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)




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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Found a set of banjo bolts on ebay for cheap for my car. Figured I would get all of them so I have them just in case. Hopefully they will be in by Friday.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Here's my proposed electrical system for the Beat The Heat car.

Any comments, critiques, criticisms?

Fuel pumps will only run when the OEM pump would have been running.

There are in-cockpit switches that can disable the in-tank pump, the surge pumps, or the entire electrical system. If the system is live there will be a green LED illuminated above the button. If the system is not live, the button will not be illuminated.

The starter is not bypassed as part of the main electrical relay

The overall system is fused at 250A

The fuel pumps are fused at 20A individually.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am not an electrical guru, but the plan looks real nice. Thanks for the help Groggory!!!!


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> I am not an electrical guru, but the plan looks real nice. Thanks for the help Groggory!!!!


Groggs is my favorite nerd :heart:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I should have lots of pictures after this weekend though. One of my Beat the Heat team mates is coming over Saturday. The one that has the Suzuki GSXR 1000 that has been bored/stroked and runs MR12 race fuel.

All of the blue lights should be wired waiting for the harness Groggory is making. Engine/Tranny WILL be in the car. Front clip should be back on. I am ordering my Kirkey Racing Seat tomorrow or Monday. A local company is helping me source an Autopower Industries roll bar. I know it is not NHRA legal, but for the time being it will work for my harness. I am ordering my race jacket, harness and helmet from Summit Racing too. Looking forward to a busy weekend. 

I got word from FFE that my front end should be shipped out this week. I am also getting VF's using FFE's solid aluminum inserts with them.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Anyone want to share the dimensions for this gauge plate like this?

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?t=5681054


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Groggory just go to home depot or lowes, they should have like 21 gauge aluminum. With what we are doing I do not think we need something real thick since we are using the din inserts as a backing for support. Honestly we might be able to rivet it in and make it look real cool. I have a rivet gun.

If i decide to put the surge tank in the engine bay will that complicate things or make it easier? I just realized that with the in tank exposed in the back I would have to seal it off from the main compartment as well. It might be easier just to mount it on the firewall on the passenger side of the engine bay.

I got all my rear blue lights installed tonight. WOW I was lighting up the whole street!!!! The neighbor thought the cops were there.  They were in a Jetta  (ME)

I took some video and will post it at the end of the weekend after I am done with everything else.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

I may not use those inserts if this works right

Where you put the pumps does change wire length

The intank uses the factory cap. Whats the problem?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Getting the fuel line to the trunk, or wait you might be able to have a small portion of fuel line come out and go back though. Hmmmm. I will have to read the rules today. Keep it the same as of right now getting the surge in the trunk.  Back to work on the car. i have been at it since about 10am and making awesome progress.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I got ALOT accomplished today. Motor and tranny are in the car. Exhaust is attached. All sensors that do not need to be lengthened have been plugged up. SPEC Clutch and flywheel are in and look awesome. The hardest part was getting the tranny in. I am just waiting on the fmic piping and mounting fab work from Al at Pag Parts and then the engine should be ready to be turned over. Enjoy the pictures of my progress for 4 hours of work today.

Engine ready to go in.










Engine in and ready for the flywheel and clutch.










Flywheel torqued down and attached.



















Clutch put on.



















Looking pretty!!!










Transmission in.










Looking even better!!!










Alternator and power steering in.










SEM installed.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Looking good mang:beer:

Now clean that oil off the driveway


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

You should see my driveway, it is plastic dipped black all the way around it.  More pics up in a couple hours for my progress today.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Today was not as productive as I hoped it would be. Most of the day I was tied up helping my wife with some stuff, but once I got down to it I got some stuff done. Got the raxle axles installed, adjustable sway bar end links installed and finished up bolting the USP Race Exhaust. Tomorrow I am taking the wheels and tires to get mounted, bleeding the brakes and clutch, and hopefully putting the front clip on after I extend the TB sensor plug and air temperature sensor plug for the driver side S4 TB.

I also forgot to get new axle bolts, need a new oil cooler clip for my catch can lines, and new bolts for one of my ball joints. Will take care of that tomorrow. Hopefully a dealer will have them in stock.

Pics from today....


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Not bad for a few hrs progress I might add. 

I have a feeling you'll actually be driving this thing in a few days:beer:


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Is ac being removed?

Do you want standalone electric fan control?


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

groggory said:


> Is ac being removed?
> 
> Do you want standalone electric fan control?


Shameless plug?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Yes the AC is completely removed. That actually brings up a question. Do I need to resistor both of the AC sensors so I do not get any codes? I believe there is one by the compressor and one by the firewall. 

A few days is impossible. My Garrett core from ATP is up in New York at Al's hands at Pag Parts. He is making me custom intercooler piping and mounts for it. I am not sure how long that will take.

Would a standalone fan help with cool down between passes?

Quick pic from our last event at Southern Nationals. The team with Leah Pruit, Pro Drag Racer.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Rod Ratio said:


> Shameless plug?


I'm working on his electrical and am planning on building a new fuse box to replace the oem one plus a custom switch panel for the cabin.

May as well build it to suit him just right


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I will have you on speed dial when I am installing it.  If I built it we would have a fire of some sort I am sure. I have all my rear lights wired up in the rear of the car. Here is a short video of my bright blue lights in the rear deck.

[video]http://s215.photobucket.com/user/blitzkriegGLI/media/100_1099_zps47fa466f.mp4.html[/video]


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

I'm gonna make sure to make clear labels for everything. Definitely.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

That will definitely help me out in the long run. I can pretty much handle anything mechanical, but electrical was never my thing. Make sure you check out the video.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

I'm having issues with the video


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## spartiati (May 19, 2008)

You shouldnt have to extend the TB or intake air sensor. Just unwrap the harness and separate the TB and intake air sensor. Then just rewrap everything. No need to cut and splice anything.


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

I'm jealous... I wonder if I can convince Arlington fire and rescue that we need to build my car?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

As long as you are a law enforcement or a fire fighter you can create a Beat the Heat chapter. It does not have to be through your department, technically. There is a lot involved in it though. I was certainly surprised how much more there is to it then racing.

Groggory what is the problem?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Wheels and tires are at the shop right now being mounted. I am about to readjust the timing. Apparently I have it 1 tooth off and did not know it until I installed the flywheel. Woopsie. Easy fix though.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> Wheels and tires are at the shop right now being mounted. I am about to readjust the timing. Apparently I have it 1 tooth off and did not know it until I installed the flywheel. Woopsie. Easy fix though.


Triple check that before you fire it:beer:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

It was a tooth off. I found out why. The cams apparently did not want to stay in place and moved a tooth back when i installed the belt. I readjusted the cam sprocket and held the wrench in place with a block so it would not move. I double checked the flywheel to make sure it was spot on and put it back on. No issues. Rotated 3 times and no clinkity clanking.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Well.....I have A LOT more updates coming right now. I am going to do separate posts for each of them. First up is the exhaust. It is fitted and bolted up.

*Thanks USP Motorsports for the Race exhaust!!!!*


----------



## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

USP Motorsports clutch line and transmission bushings installed!!!


----------



## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I rewired the TB and intake temperature sensors..


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Wheels and tires, mounted, balanced and installed for fit!!! I love the look!!!

*Thanks Stasis Engineering/REVO/Eurojet for the awesome wheels and brakes!!!!*


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

While I was working on all of this, the Fed Ex man showed up at my house with some goodies. Doug from Frankenturbo has an awesome man by the name of Carlos Diaz who works for Baferil S.A., who makes some killer pvc decals. Tell me this are not going to look awesome on my car!!!

*Carlos these decals look tremendous and excellent work on such short notice!!!! Doug I thank you and Carlos. Both of you have been a tremendous help to me!!!*


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

With those wheels I will be surprised if it runs 13's. That's assuming you don't snap an axle from wheel hop with those low profile R compounds


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Honestly, I am hoping for 13's. I am getting solid aluminum mounts and hopefully custom pre-loaded and dampened suspension as well to help with the wheel hop.


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

Beat the Heat said:


> Honestly, I am hoping for 13's. I am getting solid aluminum mounts and hopefully custom pre-loaded and dampened suspension as well to help with the wheel hop.


Have you thought about selling the wheels and getting something that suits your application better?


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## spartiati (May 19, 2008)

Beat the Heat said:


> Honestly, I am hoping for 13's. I am getting solid aluminum mounts and hopefully custom pre-loaded and dampened suspension as well to help with the wheel hop.


Run the rear dampeners as stiff as possible.

I second the wheel situation. Get some skinny donuts out back and the smallest rims you can squeeze over the front brakes. Add some soft and sticky tires of choice and your gold.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Right now the car is setup more like a highway monster which is exactly what you are campaigning against. To run a good time you need some drag slicks with a good flexing sidewall for launches


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am running with what companies helped me out with. I could not have done it without the companies that helped me out. Yes I have big brakes and big wheels that are not typical for a drag car, but you will see once it is all done that even though some of it is not drag specific it will be a very unique drag car for a very unique program. I am sure once I get to the higher horsepower I will upgrade more stuff to drag specific, but that time is not right now.

I would actually think that it looking like a street monster would help it out and show kids that you can have more fun on the track and be a lot more safe. That was my goal coming into this. Have something different that will grab kids attention to get them to come to the track. Just because you have wheels doesn't mean you can't race.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I went out to the car today and got a few minor things done. Installed the 02 sensors and one of the transmission sensors I forgot about yesterday. I was going to put the front clip on, but decided to wait until i get the car down off the blocks and I put in the tranny fluid. As of right now I am waiting on INA's new Billett In Tank Fuel pump and my intercooler setup from ATP and Pag Parts. I cannot wait to get this thing up and running.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Got my battery mounted up today. Well not really mounted, but it is ready to be mounted.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

The rest of the day today was uneventful. I got some stuff ordered from the VW dealership andI finally found a gti hood for my car at a great deal. Whew!!! I am picking it up tomorrow as well. Thank goodness there is a LKQ near me.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

OEM battery tray is unnecessary weight


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Rod Ratio said:


> OEM battery tray is unnecessary weight


I think he's using it to stay legal with the NHRA stock battery rule


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

still don't get it .... 

fully built engine running an F23 ? 
drag car with those huge wheels ? 
:facepalm::what:

maybe for auto x ???

with a BT and some real drag slicks .. it really would be a monster 

ever thought about buying a used Hx35 or Hx40 for about $150 bucks . Sending it to Doug to have it re built for you ? 
that way , you can still use his name


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## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

BR_337 said:


> still don't get it ....
> 
> fully built engine running an F23 ?
> drag car with those huge wheels ?
> ...


^^^^^^^^^


Beat the Heat said:


> I am running with what companies helped me out with. I could not have done it without the companies that helped me out. Yes I have big brakes and big wheels that are not typical for a drag car, but you will see once it is all done that even though some of it is not drag specific it will be a very unique drag car for a very unique program. I am sure once I get to the higher horsepower I will upgrade more stuff to drag specific, but that time is not right now.
> 
> I would actually think that it looking like a street monster would help it out and show kids that you can have more fun on the track and be a lot more safe. That was my goal coming into this. Have something different that will grab kids attention to get them to come to the track. Just because you have wheels doesn't mean you can't race.


If you read the thread, it will all make sense.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

It is all good. I do not mind a little heated discussion about it all. Makes the mind think and gives me ideas for the future.


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## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

:thumbup:


Beat the Heat said:


> It is all good. I do not mind a little heated discussion about it all. Makes the mind think and gives me ideas for the future.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> It is all good. I do not mind a little heated discussion about it all. Makes the mind think and gives me ideas for the future.


I kind of understand why some people are puzzled by some of the things in the build, especially those that have been at the strip and know what works and doesn't. The build is a dedicated drag car with a pretty decent job on the motor. It's just weird when there is that much attention to details with the motor and random R-comps are slapped on big boat-anchors.

I'm very familiar with the R-comps you have, and they have super stiff sidewalls (for cornering purposes), but that's the opposite of what you want for drag launches. On top of that, despite their low threadwear rating, they need some heat to start gripping and you will not get them to operating temp until after the start (by the time you're at your next pass, they'll be ice cold). It's kind of like using bowling shoes to go play basketball, it will work but not ideal and counterproductive when your building from scratch. Same goes for the wheels, they are working against you when they should be working for you... you may as well just sell or trade them for something more suitable for the job. :beer::beer:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I understand everything you are pointing out and I actually really appreciate the input, but I cannot due to reasons I cannot stipulate on here. Stasis was the only company willing to help me get rid of my Audi A8L rep cement blocks. Now, in the future that is a different story. I plan on getting actual drag wheels with actual drag tires. You all will just have to come out to the track in Georgia and see how you fair against me on the track.


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

See you on the streets.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

15 inch rims can be had for like 50 bux. Or you can find used drag radials or slicks for cheap on here. In the end, I think your brakes will need to be changed. Make sure you do a 3rd gear burnout to heat cycle those current tires, otherwise it's like Max said, waste of time. You'll be surprised how much they spin due to sidewall being so stiff GL :thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

You won't see me on the street. 

Thanks for the information about the tires. I was curious how much heat it would take to get them sticky.


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

I have a brake setup that'll fit 16's.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

18T_BT said:


> 15 inch rims can be had for like 50 bux. Or you can find used drag radials or slicks for cheap on here. In the end, I think your brakes will need to be changed. Make sure you do a 3rd gear burnout to heat cycle those current tires, otherwise it's like Max said, waste of time. You'll be surprised how much they spin due to sidewall being so stiff GL :thumbup:


People have tried to get these to temp with a burnout, but that doesn't work!

The compound in these tires will get hot quickly enough (a 3 sec burnout is plenty), however they also loose heat in a hurry. By the time you're staged and ready to roll, the heat from the burnout is long gone.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

It will definitely make for some interesting runs to see how they fare with my car.


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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

...so can you make the logo any bigger?


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## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

Beat the Heat said:


> Honestly, I am hoping for 13's. I am getting solid aluminum mounts and hopefully custom pre-loaded and dampened suspension as well to help with the wheel hop.


The more you modify the suspension the more wheel hop will disappear. My car came stock with 18's and when I first got it the wheel-hop was horrible, but by switching to the R32 suspension components w/ stiff spring/shock combo its eliminated. Unfortunetly I did most of the mods at once so I can't say for sure what element (LSD, control arms, R32 ksports,dogbone) did the trick. This was back when I was running a k04 as well, lots of low end torque and rolling burnout goodness.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Lolol. I am sure Carlos could make that happen.  Thank god he made me multiples. I am not the best with applying them.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am hoping to get custom drag suspension from Bilstein. I was in contact with them last year, but have not heard anything back from them. I know they can customize the spring rates, dampening and pre-load.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Beat the Heat said:


> I am hoping to get custom drag suspension from Bilstein. I was in contact with them last year, but have not heard anything back from them. I know they can customize the spring rates, dampening and pre-load.


Really stiff coils like H&R RSS will do just as fine.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Figures there is no contact email for h and r on their website.


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## Tcatt (Jun 12, 2006)

Beat the Heat said:


> Figures there is no contact email for h and r on their website.


Possibly try obtaining one through a distributor?


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

ECStuning has everything in stock


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Really stiff coils like H&R RSS will do just as fine.


Not enough low speed rebound in the front (1-3 Hz region), and not enough rear compression (also in the low speed region of the valving). 



Beat the Heat said:


> Figures there is no contact email for h and r on their website.


If you're going to go with custom spring and valving, then call Ramone at Bilstein California. The RSS are nothing but Bilstein inverted monotubes with H&R hardware (springs, collars and adjusters) with a more aggressive revalve geared for autobahn type environment. H&R doesn't offer revalving on them either, so you have to go to Bilstein California anyway. Personally, I'd get Ramone (the rebuild/revalve shop manager) and talk to him about getting a set of PSS custom valved with appropriate spring rates for the use of the car. If you need help with proper spring rate selection and valving recommendation, I'll gladly help you. :beer:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Thanks for the information. Do you have a contact email for him or phone number? If so send me a PM with it. I was dealing with Jose Gonzalez out in Bilstein California, but as I said before, no response from him.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am impatiently waiting on the rest of my stuff. haha!!!

Monday or Tuesday I will be plastic dipping my hood and prepping the car for all the department decals the next week.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I got the hood sprayed today. Installed it on the car and realized it needed about one more coat. I will get that done tomorrow. Put the front radiator clip on and then realized that it makes more sense to take it back off to put the tranny fluid in. I do not want to put it in when it is jacked up since it will not be level. Took the oem fenders off and hoping my ffe front clip comes in.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Onto something different right now. I have read numerous different stories about break in periods and what kind of oil to use. This is what I have gathered.

1st startup to warmup: 5w30 non synthetic (change immediately after warm up)
200-300 miles: 15w40 non synthetic (run car underload and weighed down with low boost)
0w40 or 5w40 synthetic: Racing

This is where I am confused. Because I installed a new clutch it says not to run the car hard for the sst 500. How do I do break the clutch in as well as the engine without messing anything up.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Engine break in doesn't require boost, just load. So, say coast in lower gear down hill. This doesn't put any load on your clutch as you are engine breaking etc. 500 miles seems a lot to me. I've never broken a clutch to the full 500 miles. It needs a couple of good heat cycles is all. So, stop and go traffic does it wonders.

Just think, how many race cars go straight to dyno from fresh parts?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I was thinking about that myself. Does that cycle for the engine sound about right though?


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

This is a good read: http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Makes sense. I have a Norwegian on board my drillship and he races crotch rockets though out Europe and Japan. I showed him this website and he said its old news. He's actually sent two motors to this guy and when he tore the first engine down after a complete season, it looked new. All the shade tree big block fanatics I work with use this method for their drag cars. Only a few have lost an engine and none related to piston/ring/cylinder failure. 

As far as the clutch break in simultaneously? I don't know.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

That is actually very helpful. Thank you!! :thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

New topic for the day: Drag Suspension

As most of you know I do not run specific drag wheels and tires, therefore I am going to need to make every effort to keep wheel hop to a minimum. I have been talking to WRD for the past 2-3 days about this and I think we came up with a good idea. This is what I am going to do at their recommendation more then likely. My rear spring rate is going to need to be quite high, not sure what it will be yet. Probably around 750. They also brought up Eibach's drag launch air bag suspension setup. It is an air bag that sits inside the spring and is inflated for launch, virtually giving you a solid rear axle off the launch and deflates after launch. This will keep weight on the front where it needs to be. Front spring rate will be minimal to keep wheel hop down as well. They said Koni struts/shocks with custom ground control springs, with the Eibach Drag Launch should do the trick. I was thinking about going one step further and adding limiting straps to the front to keep the front end from trying to come up even more.

I think this would be a solid setup to keep my 19's and R compound Hoosiers on the ground for a good launch.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> New topic for the day: Drag Suspension
> 
> As most of you know I do not run specific drag wheels and tires, therefore I am going to need to make every effort to keep wheel hop to a minimum. I have been talking to WRD for the past 2-3 days about this and I think we came up with a good idea. This is what I am going to do at their recommendation more then likely. My rear spring rate is going to need to be quite high, not sure what it will be yet. Probably around 750. They also brought up Eibach's drag launch air bag suspension setup. It is an air bag that sits inside the spring and is inflated for launch, virtually giving you a solid rear axle off the launch and deflates after launch. This will keep weight on the front where it needs to be. Front spring rate will be minimal to keep wheel hop down as well. They said Koni struts/shocks with custom ground control springs, with the Eibach Drag Launch should do the trick. I was thinking about going one step further and adding limiting straps to the front to keep the front end from trying to come up even more.
> 
> I think this would be a solid setup to keep my 19's and R compound Hoosiers on the ground for a good launch.


1. Rear spring rate
Whats the rear motion ratio and static weight distribution in your car? Randomly selecting a spring rate is sketchy business. I have suspension software and can help you out (if you can provide basic measurements and numbers). Going higher than needed for the platform in rate will jack the natural frequency into levels that will hurt you more than help you. I would not venture past 2.7-2.8 Hz of natural frequency in the back of your specific setup (at least not until you get tall and super soft-sidewalled dedicated drag radials).

2. Weight transfer
A bit of a foreign concept to drag racers it seems, weight will shift regardless of overall spring stiffness. As a matter of fact the stiffer the setup, the faster weight will shift. More compliance means more gradual weight transfer and probably needed to a certain degree. Simply looking for solid isn't the answer at all. 

3. Wheel hop
What will prevent wheel hop is your mount deflection characteristics and front shock valving. Nail your front valving curves and this will be kept to a minimum, while failing to do so will inevitably mean hopping down from the hole.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Let me know what measurements you need and I will try to get them today when I get home. I am waiting on John from WRD to get back with me on everything. I have not decided on any spring rates yet and shocks/struts, just a basic idea of what is needed.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> Let me know what measurements you need and I will try to get them today when I get home. I am waiting on John from WRD to get back with me on everything. I have not decided on any spring rates yet and shocks/struts, just a basic idea of what is needed.


 
For ideal spring rates, I need you to calculate your rear motion ratio (MR). It's a very basic calculation that allows to know the actual effective rate of the spring at the wheel. An inboard mounted spring will have an effective rate that is proportional to the spring mount location in relation to the wheel attachment point at the hub. So, a spring mounted relatively close to the hub will have a 1:1 motion ratio, while an inboard-mounted spring could have for example a 0.75:1 motion ratio. what this all means is that your randomly choosen 750 lbs spring would have a 750 lbs effective rate with 1:1 MR; but only a 562 lbs effective rate with the 0.75 MR (750*0.75). 

The screen shot below is taken from my suspension calculator with numbers for the front of my TT. It illustrates exactly how to measure for it. For solid axle that doesn't have a control arm, measure D2 from outer hub attachment point to the closest frame/subframe axle attachment point. From experience, the shock angle is not a huge factor and can be a close approximation, so don't sweat it too much.













Now, to make this all work I need your target race wet weight (with driver), as well as your weight didstribution front/rear. I assuming that you agree that a 2.5-2.7 max target rear Natural Frequency would make sense for your car and application. If you, or anyone else, has suggestions I'll gladly take them into considerations if they make sense or based on actual experience setting up suspensions (but for now, I'm shooting for around 2.5 Hz rea Natural Frequency). :thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I do not even know what my race weight would be. Figure AC has been deleted, no spare tire, rear seats taken out, front seats will be taken out as soon as I order my Kirkey. I will be adding a roll bar and possibly a full cage by the end of the year. The fiberglass front end is probably around the same wait as the oem one. Figure base weight of the car minus about 200 lbs. plus my weight which is 235lbs.

The picture does not show on work computers so I will have to look at it when I get home.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> I do not even know what my race weight would be. Figure AC has been deleted, no spare tire, rear seats taken out, front seats will be taken out as soon as I order my Kirkey. I will be adding a roll bar and possibly a full cage by the end of the year. The fiberglass front end is probably around the same wait as the oem one. Figure base weight of the car minus about 200 lbs. plus my weight which is 235lbs.
> 
> The picture does not show on work computers so I will have to look at it when I get home.


Also, refresh me with manufacturer posted curb weight for your year car and trim (I have an Audi TT, so I don't have the data unless you provide it to me). :beer:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Curb Weight : 3037-3179 lbs(sedan),


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> Curb Weight : 3037-3179 lbs(sedan),


Cool, thanks! As soon as you have the motion ratio, post them up along with the car weight distribution and I'll work my magic for the mentioned target Natural Frequency (unless someone objects to the proposed targets).


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

It may not be until this evening, but I will get it as soon as I can when I get home. I gotta go out and work on a couple things anway. I talked the wife into letting me work on it 1 hour a night until I get the rest of the stuff in.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Right now I have no way of knowing the weight distribution. No way to measure it, unfortunately. I did not get the chance to measure anything tonight. I had a lot going on. I did however get my Frankenturbo decals on. Doug, I will have pictures up tomorrow.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> Right now I have no way of knowing the weight distribution. No way to measure it, unfortunately. I did not get the chance to measure anything tonight. I had a lot going on. I did however get my Frankenturbo decals on. Doug, I will have pictures up tomorrow.


You don't need to have exact weight distribution as it sits, just provide me with the manufacturer posted distribution in the spec sheet. Unless there is major modifications done (think engine swap), the distribution is not changing much and negligible for what we're calculating.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Weight Distribution MT (Front) 59 
Weight Distribution MT (Rear) 41


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> For solid axle that doesn't have a control arm, measure D2 from outer hub attachment point to the closest frame/subframe axle attachment point.


I rarely post over here, but wanted to comment on this. Max, since the launch at drag racing is basically two wheel bump, wouldn't the motion ratio on the Mk4 solid axle still be 1:1 since no roll/uneven compression is happening?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I never thought this thread would bring out so much discussion and a lot of information about so many topics. Thanks for everyone's input on this. It is helping me out greatly.

Marcus, I will have the measurements Sunday for you. Tomorrow I am spending all day with my step daughter because she has to go out to Texas to visit her father Sunday morning.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

20v master said:


> I rarely post over here, but wanted to comment on this. Max, since the launch at drag racing is basically two wheel bump, wouldn't the motion ratio on the Mk4 solid axle still be 1:1 since no roll/uneven compression is happening?


Adam, the motion ratio is set in stone in static state and is not affected by roll rates or any shifts that happen dynamically - the offset of the spring location in relation to the attachment point at the hub dictates the ratio. I am not familiar with the rear suspension of the regular MK4 (that's why I asked for the measurements), and it could be close to a 1:1 ratio (also, it's usually approximately 0.9X at best because the spring mounting point is always going to be somewhat inboard of the hub's center line in practice). However, if the MK4 rear is identical to the FWD TT in spring location and beam chassis-attachment points, the ratio will be a lot lower than 1 (I know because I modeled a FWD TT before when Steve (Late_Apex) was doing the suspension in road race car. The springs are housed in cup that's way inboard of the hub mounting point). :beer:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> I never thought this thread would bring out so much discussion and a lot of information about so many topics. Thanks for everyone's input on this. It is helping me out greatly.
> 
> Marcus, I will have the measurements Sunday for you. Tomorrow I am spending all day with my step daughter because she has to go out to Texas to visit her father Sunday morning.


NP! Don't feel like there is any rush to provide me with the data, you're the one who sets the pace. :thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am in a rush to get it done though.  

I NEED to have it done by June 29th for its unveiling at the atlanta drag strip in Commerce Georgia. They are having a special little thing for our program and the official release of my car. Should be a fun filled night!!!


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Adam, the motion ratio is set in stone in static state and is not affected by roll rates or any shifts that happen dynamically - the offset of the spring location in relation to the attachment point at the hub dictates the ratio. I am not familiar with the rear suspension of the regular MK4 (that's why I asked for the measurements), and it could be close to a 1:1 ratio (also, it's usually approximately 0.9X at best because the spring mounting point is always going to be somewhat inboard of the hub's center line in practice). However, if the MK4 rear is identical to the FWD TT in spring location and beam chassis-attachment points, the ratio will be a lot lower than 1 (I know because I modeled a FWD TT before when Steve (Late_Apex) was doing the suspension in road race car. The springs are housed in cup that's way inboard of the hub mounting point). :beer:


I never said anything about roll rates. :laugh: Yes, it's identical to FWD TT's, so you don't have to wait for his measurements to unleash the data. :thumbup: The inboard part is what I was asking about though. Since drag racing is two wheel bump, both sides compressing up at the same rate due to straight line motion, there is no roll. Yes the spring is compressed at a distance from it's pivot point, but that axis is longitudinal (with a slight angle due to the \___/ shape of the axle), but the rotational axis isn't along the axle line like independent suspensions. The motion ratio wil lbe defined by the distance from the rotation point to the spring yes, but that's in the \ and / part of the rear axle, not the distance along the axle from the roll center.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

The angle of the suspension will not be different from stock as well. I am trying not to lower it due to the 3" NHRA front lip rule. If the measurements are the same, that will save me some time with measurements as well. I do have 30mm spacers up front and 20mm spacers in the back though.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Beat the Heat said:


> The angle of the suspension will not be different from stock as well. I am trying not to lower it due to the 3" NHRA front lip rule. If the measurements are the same, that will save me some time with measurements as well. I do have 30mm spacers up front and 20mm spacers in the back though.


Spacers only affect track width, which plays into understeer gradient but not what we are modeling here, and amount of lowering doesn't affect motion ratios.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Good deal.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Today I went out and finished up some small stuff. I finished bolting the exhaust to the frame, filled up the transmission fluid, installed the TIP, installed the Divertinator from Frankenturbo and took some pictures. Gotta represent those who helped me. Enjoy!!!!


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

20v master said:


> Max, since the launch at drag racing is basically two wheel bump, wouldn't the motion ratio on the Mk4 solid axle still be 1:1 since no* roll/uneven compression* is happening?


 


20v master said:


> I never said anything about roll rates. :laugh: .


The part where roll was introduced to the discussion is in bold in that quote,  but I see what you're saying Adam. As you're implying, there will not be much lateral roll in the OP's specific drag launch (although I've seen powerful car leave the line with plenty of uneven diagonal cross roll). With that said, assuming we have virtually perfectly even compression and rebound per axle, we still have dive and squat to deal with. The spring motion associated with these forces alone are bound by normal motion ratio forces and calculations. 

Question for you: do you have any input on my proposed Natural Frequency targets for 3000+ drag car with suboptimal tire setup? I purpusely left out tire deflection and sidewall rate out the equation on the calculations.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Using nice round numbers for your spring rates (which means existing springs and not having to go custom), these are the rates falling within my Natural Frequency target range. I used OEM stabilizer rates as my default since I didn't see any mention of them. I also used the known 0.97 front motion ratio that is common to the MK4 platform (already calculated it from my car so the numbers are legit). 

Front: 650 lbs/in
Rear: 675 lbs/in 

With these rates, you'll be in good shape for the chassis as long as you use the same scientific approach to picking your damper rates (I'll give you revalve specs when you decide what you're doing for shocks). :beer:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I think I am going to be using Koni's at the recommendation of WRD.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Or if I can ever get a hold of Bilstein again, custom revalved Bilstein's.

Tomorrow the Beat the Heat GLI gets a make over to show what it represents.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

This is going to be the last picture i upload of the car until it is done. Consider it a teaser shot of what the car will look like to educate kids about illegal street racing, drugs, alcohol and texting while driving.


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

Beat the Heat said:


> This is going to be the last picture i upload of the car until it is done. Consider it a teaser shot of what the car will look like to educate kids about illegal street racing, drugs, alcohol and texting while driving.


hmmmm lol are you really a cop?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Yup, with Gwinnett County Sheriff's Department.


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

Nice, we get to use the flashers while data logging?

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 4 Beta


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Haha!!!! Not while driving. In the driveway yes as long as I have the wiring harness from Groggory. 

I ran all the wires for the lights yesterday to the double din insert where the radio used to be. These buggers are blinding during the day time. 6 in the back and 4 up front.


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

Beat the Heat said:


> Haha!!!! Not while driving. In the driveway yes as long as I have the wiring harness from Groggory.
> 
> I ran all the wires for the lights yesterday to the double din insert where the radio used to be. These buggers are blinding during the day time. 6 in the back and 4 up front.


Our flashers for work are blinding as well...all new leds systems.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 4 Beta


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

That is what Soundoff Signal uses. My undercover lights in the headlights and tail lights are about the size of a quarter and each have 8 led's in them.


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

And here I am making my car look as stock as possible. :laugh:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Back to build stuff..... i am trying to figure out what all i have covered and what i need to cover.

Fuel system - Check
Electronics - Check
Suspension - Check
Engine break in - Check
Double checking all sensors and bolts - Check
Triple checked timing - Check
*Properly tuning Maestro for E85 Frankenturbo F23 in 2.0T Stroker - This would be the last item on my check list. *


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Originally that was my plan, but how can you make a car look stock with law enforcement emblems all over it. lol


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Imagine being at the track and having that come up next to you at the line. Tell me that would not be fun to see the blue lights in front of you or behind you going down the track.

Don't forget June 29th Atlanta Dragway I will be unveiling it at the Night of Fire.


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Beat the Heat said:


> Originally that was my plan, but how can you make a car look stock with law enforcement emblems all over it. lol


I know I was busting your balls about how small the f23 is in a fully build engine ...

But this is a great thing what you are doing here. With that being said, you can count me in for this cause :thumbup:

I'm building the 91 gti /1.8t for track days ,auto X and some Drag too..NO STREET RACING 

im in WOODSTOCK btw


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I appreciate the support!!! Everything anyone said on here has never been taken in the wrong way and put to good use for trying to get this car track ready. This is not your everyday ordinary F23 though.  If i say anymore Doug might hurt me.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

You guys convinced me to do this...........


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

lol well i for one wouldnt believe that was a cop car from the back, just a silly ricer with flashers and someone waiting for a ticket... now after pulling along side of you (probably at something faster than deemed safe) i would be like :what: :facepalm: pulling over :banghead: well played mr officer well played... 

Alllllll though you are MKIV and probably will lose a timing belt or water pump incase I decided to run . 1.8T vs 1.8t which one nevalose?


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

Beat the Heat said:


> Imagine being at the track and having that come up next to you at the line. Tell me that would not be fun to see the blue lights in front of you or behind you going down the track.
> 
> Don't forget June 29th Atlanta Dragway I will be unveiling it at the Night of Fire.


hmmmmm interesting... too short for me i need 1/4 i think lol



T-Boy said:


> And here I am making my car look as stock as possible. :laugh:


what you think tom? want to run the jetta against the roadster? It may be a fair race to about 45 when i finally spool and then :vampire: and about a half second later shut it down lol bc the 1/8th is over


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I do not think I will be losing any timing belts or water pumps anytime soon, just traction at the track.


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

theswoleguy said:


> hmmmmm interesting... too short for me i need 1/4 i think lol
> 
> 
> 
> what you think tom? want to run the jetta against the roadster? It may be a fair race to about 45 when i finally spool and then :vampire: and about a half second later shut it down lol bc the 1/8th is over


I would still be crossing the 60' line wheels smoking by the time you're crossing the 1/8th. :banghead:


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

T-Boy said:


> I would still be crossing the 60' line wheels smoking by the time you're crossing the 1/8th. :banghead:


Get some slicks then :laugh:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

FFE race front end is shipping out tomorrow!!!


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> FFE race front end is shipping out tomorrow!!!


Poseur


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> I think I am going to be using Koni's at the recommendation of WRD.


Nothing wrong with Koni, and they can be rebuild/revalved just about anywhere. However, the comparable shocks (price wise) are not even close to the Billi's inverted monotubes in terms of performance and durability (shaft diameter and seal quality is much better with Bilstein). 



Beat the Heat said:


> Or if I can ever get a hold of Bilstein again, custom revalved Bilstein's.


Call Bilstein California and ask for Ramone's extension. Leave him a message and he'll get back to you. They are crazy busy during racing season since every team and racers are sending shocks to be rebuild/revalve (that's why things like that are better done in the off-season).


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I will have to try that. I have a interview and a meeting today, so I probably will not be able to get to it today. Thanks for the information.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Car looks badass


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

It will look even better once everything is finally on it. Thank you though!!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am now trying to figure out how I am going to afford my racing seat, roll bar, safety helmet, jacket and harness. Trying to sell a bunch of stuff, but no takers on anything yet. My budget is shot beyond repair right now and I do not want to go into debt over it. If anyone has a racing seat they want to donate let me know.


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

Beat the Heat said:


> I am now trying to figure out how I am going to afford my racing seat, roll bar, safety helmet, jacket and harness. Trying to sell a bunch of stuff, but no takers on anything yet. My budget is shot beyond repair right now and I do not want to go into debt over it. If anyone has a racing seat they want to donate let me know.


Fine citizens of gwinette lol 

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Fuel pump is being shipped out today or tomorrow as well.  

*Thanks INA Engineering!!!*


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> I am now trying to figure out how I am going to afford my racing seat, roll bar, safety helmet, jacket and harness. Trying to sell a bunch of stuff, but no takers on anything yet.*My budget is shot beyond repair right now *and I do not want to go into debt over it. If anyone has a racing seat they want to donate let me know.


Welcome to the world of racing! Budgets are ALWAYS exceeded, deadlines are never meet, end-goals never reached, and wives always unhappy... it's all worth it though! :beer:


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Beat the Heat said:


> Fuel pump is being shipped out today or tomorrow as well.
> 
> *Thanks INA Engineering!!!*


Please take lots of pics I have never seen the INA fuel pump setup


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am very anxious to get it.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Now, what Dzus fasterners should I use for the front bumper since it does not use the oem mounting points to the fender? I see there are many different mount variations, but I want to make sure I get the correct one before I get the bumper on.


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Welcome to the world of racing! Budgets are ALWAYS exceeded, deadlines are never meet, end-goals never reached, and wives always unhappy... it's all worth it though! :beer:


 Lol I'm about ready to sell the TT and just relax on the whole game. 

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 4 Beta


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

theswoleguy said:


> Lol I'm about ready to sell the TT and just relax on the whole game.
> 
> Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 4 Beta


 Nah man; just get the TT running smooth, and enjoy it. You've been working on that car for too long to abandon the project.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I abondoned my 72' CJ5 Jeep project up in Pennsylvania and I regret it. I wish I would have stuck with it to finish it.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> I abondoned my 72' CJ5 Jeep project up in Pennsylvania and I regret it. I wish I would have stuck with it to finish it.


 Riveting tale chap.

Did you order up your dzus fasteners yet?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

After talking to JC over at Douglas VW I am going with quick latch push button fasteners. He told me they are easier to work with. I should be ordering them tomorrow.


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

Beat the Heat said:


> After talking to JC over at Douglas VW I am going with quick latch push button fasteners. He told me they are easier to work with. I should be ordering them tomorrow.


 Your build has me wanting to build/finish the rcar and sacrifice the tt

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

It has me pulling my hair out some days, but in the end it will be well worth it for me.


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

theswoleguy said:


> Your build has me wanting to build/finish the rcar and sacrifice the tt
> 
> Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2


 Do it!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am impatiently waiting on the front end to come in. It should be in before the end of this week. Was shipped via freight last week. Never dealt with a freight shipment before, so I have no idea how slow it is. lol Hopefully Pag Parts is almost done with the piping as well. Cannot wait to get that in either along with the fuel pump.  

I finally foud a torque wrench I can borrow that can torque the axle bolts too.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Got a phone call today from the trucking company that is delivering the front end. I will have it Monday between 5-7pm. Fuel pump has been shipped out. Things look to be just about back on track for me.  

Should be getting some money here soon to get the race seat, harness and roll bar too.


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## nugsgti23 (Nov 21, 2008)

who's tuning your car?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Me and the theswoleguy said he would help out as well.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Yesterday I got a real nice surprise around 7pm. 










Today I plastic dipped the fenders and bumper and test fitted everything. I did realize that with gli side skirts the fenders have to be trimmed on the bottom. I had to take off and smooth out about 1/2" of fiberglass. After that they fit like butter. I am going to be cutting out the center insert as well. The two side inserts I am leaving filled. The tires fit perfectly as well inside the fenders!!

Props to FFE for an awesome product. Once I get the quick latch's in I am going to fit everything better. 

I had limited time today because a nasty storm rolled through and took down a bunch of trees. One house down the road looks like they lost their home and car. 6 trees ripped down like nothing. Keep them in your prayers. Hope everyone was alright.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Are you going to cut out the front bumper for air to pass for the FMIC or running an AWIC?

Also, why does the fender not line up with the bumper? Is it that far off?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I plan on cutting out the middle for my Garrett 500hp intercooler. The sides I am just going to leave filled. I did not have time to line everything up correctly. The bolts are still loose holding everything on so I can line it up better. The front bumper will look like that until I get the Quick Latch's to connect them.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I finally got the axle bolts torqued down. I found a buyer for my Recaro's as well. Monday I will be ordering my kirkey seat, harness and roll bar. I also need to add a few more coats to the new front end. It was a little rough and I had to wet sand it down a bit.

In the mean time. NEW TOPIC: 2 Step

How exactly do I figure out how to set it up? I have never used it before, but plan on it with Maestro. I understand the concept, but I want to understand it completely before I start to use it. I look forward to everyone's input as usual.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I took the Recaro's out tonight and said good bye to them. I hate to see them go, but they are going to someone who will use them rather then sit in the garage. I have some cleaning to do. Wow there was a lot of trash under them.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Resprayed the front bumper and fenders. Looks much better and not as rough anymore.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I came home to a UPS Shipment notification in my email from Arnold at Pag Parts. This wonderful creation will be at my door step Monday when I get home from work!!! It looks so purty!!!!

*Arnold, thank for the custom piping and fmic mounting for my setup. I cannot thank you enough!!!!! Thanks again to ATP for an awesome intercooler to help me go fast!!!!*


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I spent the day today prepping the car for the intercooler coming in tomorrow. Yesterday I was at the Atlanta Dragway all day racing our 91 Impala SS with a 502 crate motor. Made it to the 4th round of the Sportsmen ET. Had an awesome time getting used to the tree. Here are some pics from today. 










Getting used to the dremel took some time and I had quite a bit of sanding and filing to make it look good.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Intercooler is mounted. Most of the piping is installed. Had a little weather roll through so I had to stop. Arnold did an outstanding job with the piping. Fits perfectly!!!!


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Electrical being built tonight/ tomorrow. Finally! Lol

Runs will go:

Battery to drivers side firewall to under console under passenger door sill to either in tank or to trunk as appropriate

10 ft runs for switches
20 ft runs for in tank
25 ft runs for trunk

Wires will be cut soon, so if you want to change any of those lengths speak now or forever hold your peace.

All grounds will be individually run back to engine bay to make troubleshooting and installation simpler. All wire bundles will be marked by 'stripes' aka shrink wrap bands


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Good deal. I have everythiing ready for the electrical to be installed. All the emergency light wiring has been run to the double din insert area. I went out and bought an electrical distribution block for the strobes so I can hook up all the wiring on the lights for front and back serperately off off one switch.

Those lengths are fine. I would rather be long then short. Thanks for the help Groggory!!!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am making a slight modification to my dual surge setup. I am no longer going to be mounting it in the trunk. Until I can afford the fuel line that I want, which is super expensive, I am going to mount it in the engine bay where the washer fluid container used to be. It should make things easier for me to install and upgrade/change later. Doing it this way I will not have to close off the trunk with sheet metal, per NHRA rules. The rules state as long as it is on the opposite side of the transmission/bellhousing it does not have to be sealed off from everything else.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Went out in between the weather and took some pictures of the dual surge tank with the pumps and a little bit of my interior minus the seats with all my wiring for the emergency strobes. It is a little messy right now.


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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

Beat the Heat said:


> Went out in between the weather and took some pictures of the dual surge tank with the pumps


Looks very serious. I'd like the idea of redundancy with these as well, though. I wonder whether a check-valve could have been used.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

[email protected] said:


> Looks very serious. I'd like the idea of redundancy with these as well, though. I wonder whether a check-valve could have been used.


He is utilizing the Bosch factory check valves on each of those pumps. They connect to that block like a unified banjo connection. Furthermore, I am giving each pump power through its own fuse through its own relay. So if a pump, fuse, or relay fails you still have another fully independent pump.

The in-tank pump is a single point of failure...but that's typical. It's a pretty serious setup.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Check valves should be here next week along with a bunch of goodies to hook it all up in the engine bay. The whole setup should work like a champ. It just sucks I have to wait until later in the year to redo all of my fuel lines and fittings to something larger. I have it all figured out with all of the fittings, adapters and such that I need for the surge tank though.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I finally got a hold of someone at Ground Control for custom springs, but they do not make a 675 lb/in spring, so I opted for a 700 in the back and 625 in the front. VF told me that they will sell me mounts without the poly inserts and FFE is shipping me a set of their solid aluminum mounts. I just need to sell a couple more things out of my garage and I can get the springs and mounts.

I am going to name this product now, before anyone else. I present to you the ULTIMATE power/ground/switch kit!!!!!!! Brought to you from Groggory. 

Came in yesterday and everything looks phenomenal!! Thanks Groggory for the awesome help with this!!!
































































Got almost all the fittings for the surge tank too. I am still waiting on the barb fittings for the pumps.



















Seat, Harness and Mounting Hardware.




























I am still waiting on a few more things and I will be done!!!!!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Today I got some more work done. The surge tank is installed. It fit where the washer bottle used to be with some dremeling and drilling. Came out pretty nice. I am just waiting on some holley fuel fittings to install the fuel line. I also got the seat installed. My god that was a pain in the butt. I am one more step towards running and driving.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am working on the wiring right now. WOW, this is tedious stuff. It took me over an hour to figure out how I wanted to run the wiring into the compartment. I finally finished that up. I am working on all the relay wiring with the new fuses. I just have to figure out where I am going to mount the distribution blocks. and finish the alternator wiring.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Alright well here is the results of today!!! Wiring harness pretty much installed. 42dd vacuum block installed. I need to get 7/16" hose though to run it off the SEM. Enjoy the pics...














































BYE BYE old wiring!!!!




























The pretty 42dd vacuum block and braided vacuum hose.


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

Can I grab the old ground wires for a mk2 1.8t swap?


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## nugsgti23 (Nov 21, 2008)

where did you get the seat and rails from?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I got the seats from Summit Racing along with the sliders and mounts. $106 for the seat and mounts. As for the wiring, I will give them to you and you can just pay shipping. hit me up with a message.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

This doesn't look quite right...










One of the big poles on the contactor is labeled 'A1+' and one is labeled 'A2-'. I believe I had the masking tape labeled as such.

However, I'll detail out how that section of the wiring should go.

One side of the 250 A fuse to A1+ on the contactor

The other side of the contactor (A2-) to one side of the (+) distribution block

...

If you put those two big wires on one side of the contactor I believe you are defeating the purpose of the contactor.










Before you fire it all up I would recommend you post up detailed pics of your wiring install so I can ensure it's all hooked up correctly.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

There are still 3 wires, that I have not installed yet. I believe one of them is that wire. One of them is the real small wire. The other is for the alternator power and the third is what I believe goes on the negative side to A2- side. I will check when I get home today.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I will take detailed pictures when I get home tonight as well. I know I have the 250A going to the A1+ side. I will check where I have the positive distribution block coming off of. I think I do having it come off the A1+ instead of the A2-.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Alright, I went out to the car tonight when I got home and took more specific pictures of the wiring and I changed a couple things per Groggory. I think I have the distribution block and 250 fuse on the opposite sides you said. Both of the wires were labeled A1+ though.

First set of wires are on the contactor. On the A2- side is the wire for the 250A fuse. On the A1+ is the wire for the + distribution block. There is also a seperate wire going from the A1+ to the A1+ relay trigger.



















Battery + ---------- 250Amp Fuse----------A2- on contactor










Ground Under Battery ---------- Negative Distribution Block ----------- Grounds for all relays(7 total)










A1+ on contactor --------- + Distribution Block( 4 Total + for relays) ---------- OEM Fuse Box



















My next question is do I connect the wire above on the fuse box where this loose wire is below? The one on the lower left?










There is an additional yellow wire that needs to be connected to the trigger relay on the contactor, but I need to lengthen it about 1 foot. I double checked all wiring and what was written to be where they are connected. Does that yellow wire on the + distribution block go there or was it mislabeled? I thought there was an additional wire that goes on the contactor on the relay trigger.


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

You know if Brian from EUROTECH finished his mk1 1.8t build ? We're suppose to race when both cars are ready 
:laugh: .


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Last time I talked to him he was still working on it. I hope he has it done. He devoted a lot of time into it. That reminds me I need to call him to catch up with him.


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Tell me about it ..ugh 

I'll swing by this to check he's progress


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

One night, later this summer after my car is ready I want to try to get a bunch of people from the forum in the Atlanta area to come up to Commerce and race at the track for one of their fast fridays. Would be a good way to meet more people in the area and you can see the car in person before NOPI.  I will be there at our vendor booth and racing.


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Beat the Heat said:


> One night, later this summer after my car is ready I want to try to get a bunch of people from the forum in the Atlanta area to come up to Commerce and race at the track for one of their fast fridays. Would be a good way to meet more people in the area and you can see the car in person before NOPI.  I will be there at our vendor booth and racing.


I'll be so down.for that. I hate the fact that there's some from this forum that i never meant. :banghead:

i'll definitely be at NOPI too.. Not sure if i'll be racing sense I haven't got DSS axles yet. 

But let me know when you wanna get everyone together for fast.Fridays


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I will be making a thread in the south east forum regarding it probably sometime next month.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Yesterday I went out and got some sheet metal from Home Depot. I got enough for the switches inside the car and more to mount all the fuses, relays and distribution blocks to in the engine bay. I have it mocked up in the engine bay right now and is looking pretty good. It should be nice and neat by the end of the evening tonight. I am hoping to have all the switches mounted and working along with the stuff in the engine bay. Then it is the test to put the battery in and turn the power on for the first time since November.


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Are you going to do some all out runs during the test and tune phase at the track? I'd love to see what you run when you're done. 

I :heart: this car! and the owner's pretty cool too


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Once I get it running good and get the engine and clutch broken in correctly I am going to take it to the track and tune it properly with some full on runs. Hopefully by then I will have my suspension and aluminum engine mounts so wheel hop will be almost non existent. Thanks for the props!!! I really appreciate it!!!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Tonight I got both of the distribution blocks mounted up with 3 of the relay things (I am not electrical savvy) and the 250A fuse block. I got my sheet metal cut to fit the double din perfectly. Best of all no bolts used and it is very secure.  I got the holes drilled out for all my switches plus an extra one for later use (by accident) and mounted them up. Tomorrow I should be getting the battery in and testing everything out electrically!!!! I cannot wait. *Thanks Groggory for the awesome electrical setup!!!!*


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Beat the Heat said:


>



Greg made those? I want him to make my harnesses now! I HATE Wiring and my engine bay shows it :banghead:

it's so puuuurrrrrttty


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

He made the whole wiring harness for the switches with all the relays and all new power and ground wires for battery, starter and alternator. One heck of a good job, that is for sure.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Tomorrow I am putting the battery in and testing everything, except for the surge tank. I am still waiting on the fittings for it. I wanted to use the distribution block that came with it, but it would not fit.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Test your electrical with a voltmeter before turning everything on. Lots of ways a miswire can go wrong

Ps... Lookin good

Pps... Don't forget to drill the indicator lights out for the switches


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

As to doing other people's harnesses... This was a massive donation of time. I'm not going to easily agree to that lol.

If you need help though, I'm more than happy advising


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I did the indicator lights as well, I just forgot to get pictures of them. I am going to be sanding the face with some fine sandpaper to give it kinda a brushed look. The only thing I might have an issue with is that I put the 250A fuse on the A2- side and the distribution block on the A1+ side. I think I switched them up. Will this cause an issue?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Beat the Heat said:


> I did the indicator lights as well, I just forgot to get pictures of them. I am going to be sanding the face with some fine sandpaper to give it kinda a brushed look. The only thing I might have an issue with is that I put the 250A fuse on the A2- side and the distribution block on the A1+ side. I think I switched them up. Will this cause an issue?


Battery needs to be on A1 side.

Use a palm sander and wet dry paper and some water to get that look you want. Spray with varnish once you're done so the metal doesn't get surface rust


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Ok, I just need to switch the battery and distributor then. Wet sanding is going to bring back bad memories of me attempting to polish my valve cover before I sprayed it with wrinkle coat. lol


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Beat the Heat said:


> Ok, I just need to switch the battery and distributor then. Wet sanding is going to bring back bad memories of me attempting to polish my valve cover before I sprayed it with wrinkle coat. lol


Please clarify


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I have the main 250Amp fuse and wire connected to the A2- and the + distribuion blockr on the A1+. I need to flip flop them to make it correct.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

ALL of the main power wiring is done. ALL of the switches for main power, in tank pump and surge tank is done. Wiring for my blue lights is ran and attached to the positive dist block and negative dist block. I just need to go get the connectors tomorrow for the switches and figure out where the power goes and where the positive for the lights go on the on/off/on switches. Tomorrow I will be installing the Quik Latches and getting my small screw driver out of the intercooler piping (dont ask).


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

regarding the switch question, just take an ohm meter and figure it out.

With the switch centered, find the two poles that have no continuity. With the switch pushed up (in either direction) the poles should now have full continuity. Use those.

Also, you said you're going out to buy connectors to plug into the switches. My advice, buy the expensive ones. I use a very nice brand cf connector that gives a nice positive lock onto those 1/4" switch tabs. The cheap connectors don't give a nice positive lock. Also, the cheap connectors are made of a very thin metal that I don't trust. If you can't find a good quality connector let me know and I'll mail you some.

The dorman waterproof connectors (#10 ring for the distribution block) seem to be good quality and available at most auto parts stores. FYI


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Good deal. I will check with my multi meter when I get home later.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

See if you can get the cable to the OEM fuse box attached into the fuse box itself instead of just attached to the OEM pig tail. If you do decide to leave it like that make sure to wrap it all up in electrical tape or something so you don't get a short. Remember, that exposed junction will be hot once you get this all hooked up.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I took care of it.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Beat the Heat said:


> I took care of it.


You're doin work. Very nice


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Haha!!! The switches are all done. Main power switch works. It has a slight delay which is no big deal and when I turn it off it looks like it powers down gradually. The 87F does its job on the turn of key, by attempting to prime the line with the switches on. I did have a problem with the blue lights, but that was my fault. I forgot to connect one of the negative wires. The car actually turns over too. No start up though, because no pumps are hooked up. I will be finishing up tomorrow, hopefully and loading my 725cc Eurodyne file that I prepped for this install.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Battery is installed, catch can is back in with all the 10an lines. I am almost ready to get it running!!!! Tomorrow INA's in tank will be at the house and hopefully the fittings I ordered from Holley will be in for my surge tank pumps.


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

Nice progress! :thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

If everything falls into place it should be running by the end of the week. If i do, it will be unveiled at our obstacle course race we are having on Saturday. I will let you know, so feel free to stop by to see it if it is done.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I believe that time has come!!!!!!!!!

Tonight I will be loading my base file courtesy of Spartiati and turning her over for the first time since November.  Hopefully all will go well and I will not have any issues (crossing my fingers).... I will post up later tonight how things went. I may even post a el cheapo video of the car idling.


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

Beat the Heat said:


> If everything falls into place it should be running by the end of the week. If i do, it will be unveiled at our obstacle course race we are having on Saturday. I will let you know, so feel free to stop by to see it if it is done.





Beat the Heat said:


> I believe that time has come!!!!!!!!!
> 
> Tonight I will be loading my base file courtesy of Spartiati and turning her over for the first time since November.  Hopefully all will go well and I will not have any issues (crossing my fingers).... I will post up later tonight how things went. I may even post a el cheapo video of the car idling.



:thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Alright time for UPDATES!!!!!

I flashed a file that Spartiati made for me. I primed the turbo without fuel going to the system or the coils hooked up. I turned the main pump back on and forgot to hook up the cols again. Woops..... I go to turn it over for the first time and it would not start. I finally realize that duhhhhh I forgot to hook up the coils and it started right up. Idled like a purring kitten. 

I let the engine heat up and checked for leaks. I found a minor fuel leak and fixed it. No oil leaks or coolant leaks. YAY

I then went to check for check engine lights because I wanted to make sure I had oil pressure. Everything was perfectly fine. I let it cycle through to heat up, topped off the coolant and checked the oil. Everything was good. The only issue I saw was that it seemed like the lifters were rather loud, that or it was clutch chatter. I really do not know. It just annoyed the heck out of me. After it heated up to operating temperature and I was confident there were no leaks, I shut her down for the day. My wife was sick and did not want to be outside all night in case she needed something.

Tomorrow I will be going through the break in process and start to run logs.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

if the motor was sitting for a long time the lifters will be a bit loud on first startup until they pump up with oil. Maybe a good idea to splash a bit of oil over them before cranking it over


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

The motor was sitting for a couple months in the engine bay while I was finishing up things. That would explain a lot.


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

Good to hear the first fire up was a success...now drive it like you stole it! :laugh:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Na. I cannot yet. Today, after work, I have to break it in correctly so I can get as much power out of it as I can. It is being unveiled on Saturday at 750 Hi Hope Rd in Lawrenceville at the Jail Break Challenge Obstacle Course Race. Feel free to come out and see it. Festivities start at 9 and will be running into the early afternoon, hopefully.


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

Beat the Heat said:


> Na. I cannot yet. Today, after work, I have to break it in correctly so I can get as much power out of it as I can. It is being unveiled on Saturday at 750 Hi Hope Rd in Lawrenceville at the Jail Break Challenge Obstacle Course Race. Feel free to come out and see it. Festivities start at 9 and will be running into the early afternoon, hopefully.


That's right off 316....I'm pretty close by. I just might swing by after my workout (LA fitness right off 120). :beer:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Yes it is. If you know where Gwinnett County Corrections is, we will be in the parking lot. Do not get it confused with the jail. Corrections is different. Just look for the signs for the obstacle course race.


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

Break it in like you stole it. Works well on ATVs and V8s.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

If I do that I might bring unwanted attention from the local Sheriff's Dept. lol :sly: 

Oh wait my car says sheriff on it.  The graphics do make it more difficult to break it in like I need to.


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

Beat the Heat said:


> If I do that I might bring unwanted attention from the local Sheriff's Dept. lol :sly:
> 
> Oh wait my car says sheriff on it.  The graphics do make it more difficult to break it in like I need to.


Use the 285 track! :laugh:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

:banghead:


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

T-Boy said:


> Use the 285 track! :laugh:


This


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I do not think my boss (The Sheriff of Gwinnett County) would take too kindly to me using the "285 track" lol. My car is marked with Sheriff's dept emblems so it makes it very very difficult to find a place to do it besides a real track. I will use some back roads during the day time to get it broke in.

I did some logging and initial tweaking to the injector constant today with the help of Spartiati. Awesome guy!!!!! Got my 02 correction up from -23 to -10 at idle. Tomorrow I am hoping to get some real logs when I try to make time to break in the engine.


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## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

Great news man! Keep it up!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Today was The Jail Break Challenge Obstacle Course Race we had to benefit Gwinnett Beat the Heat and our Honor Guard Program. It was also the official unveil for the car and went awesome!!!! A lot of people came out to race and I got a lot of positive comments about my car.

Down to the nitty gritty. This morning at about 6 am I drove it from the jail to the obstacle course to set it up. I decided to try to run some logs on my way over. Good news is I am not running lean under boost. The bad news is my lamda was .8 lolol. Tuesday when I get the car back to the house I will be tweaking the file and running more logs. Meastro was being finicky today and the logger kept timing out on me and flash locked up on me twice. At idle it was running so rich that I had a hard time getting it started. Tuesday when I get to the jail I will reflash with a lower IC per Spartiati and hopefully all will be well to continue with logging runs. 

I did a few break in runs this morning 1st thru 3 gear up to 4k rpm and let vaccum try to set the rings. I could not find a long enough strip of road on my way over to do a 4th gear pull. More to come on Tuesday.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I got to run my first real logs yesterday, but I blew a vacuum line cap off of a fitting that I apparantly forgot to clamp down. I was in the process of getting ready to bring it back to the house and figured I would run some logs while waiting on the peson helping me. Logs looked good. Not running lean at all until the cap blew off under the intake manifold. lol I will be fixing that today and rechecking all my other vacuum caps.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Beat the Heat said:


> I got to run my first real logs yesterday, but I blew a vacuum line cap off of a fitting that I apparantly forgot to clamp down. I was in the process of getting ready to bring it back to the house and figured I would run some logs while waiting on the peson helping me. Logs looked good. Not running lean at all until the cap blew off under the intake manifold. lol I will be fixing that today and rechecking all my other vacuum caps.


If you can, try to get rid of any vacuum caps and replace with plugs if possible...assuming that they are NPT barbed fittings just replace with NPT plugs.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I may go to home depot and just get various sizes from 1/8" up to 3/4" to cover my bases. I need one large and one small.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I have another peculiar issue now. Keep in mind the following information.

Car does not misfire
Car runs rich at idle and under boost
Car idles fine
The car does not smoke at all
Car does not over heat
Oil is not mikly
Car back fires on hard decel (probably from being rich)
Using OEM Head Bolts with big bore head gasket.

I checked my dipstick today to check my oil level. I noticed a very slight wavy hint of green in the oil. It has got me a little worried. My coolant level has gone down a little bit. I flushed the system a while back and switched to prestone green anti freeze. I was thinking that it could possibly be from the lucas break in additive I added before the first oil change and it has left behind trace amounts of it. I plan on doing a leak down test, but I am hoping that it is not the head gasket.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

The block was also magnafluxed at the machine shop that built it, so there are no cracks in the block.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I used Lucas Break in Additive for the first break in phase and drained it. Then I went with Castrol conventional oil for another 100 miles or so for the last phase of break in. I was thinking it might be trace amounts of the lucas additive.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Tomorrow my friend Tom is coming over to check to make sure my head gasket it not the colprit for the slight problem I have encountered that I mentioned above. I will be changing my plug gap to .022 due to the cams I am using and hopefully this will help with the idle and fueling. I have everything I need to fix my vacuum leaks off the intake manifold as well. I am also going to be getting a new O2 sensor just in case.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I also figured out that the P0341 code is basically telling me something is messed up with the sensor itself. So I will take the one from my oem head off and replace it to see if it fixes it. It sounds spot on. The code can be intermittant and not show itself all the time, be drivable and run very rich which it is.

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0341


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## [email protected] (Jun 24, 2009)

Coolant won't mix with oil, castrol now puts dye in the oil incase you have an oil leak. Put a UV light on the dipstick when it has the green tinted oil on it and it prob glows.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

That makes sense now. Thanks for the help JC!! I really appreciate it!!


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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

Beat the Heat said:


> I also figured out that the P0341 code is basically telling me something is messed up with the sensor itself. So I will take the one from my oem head off and replace it to see if it fixes it. It sounds spot on. The code can be intermittant and not show itself all the time, be drivable and run very rich which it is.
> 
> http://www.obd-codes.com/p0341


It probably won't fix it. But once you've swapped in a replacement sensor, grab a log of blocks 090 and 093 when the car is running at idle. These data will tell you how far out of alignment the cam sensor is from the crank sensor. I'm going to predict block 093 shows a deviation of around -15˚.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I fixed my vacuum leaks today and will try to get the sensor swapped and run the logs done later today. My buddy Tom just came over and helped me determine that there is NO coolant in the oil, but it does slightly smell like fuel. He said that it was probably from breaking in the rings and running rich at the same time.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I changed the sensor and fixed my vacuum leaks. I did not change the gap on the spark plugs yet though. O2 corrections are much better now. they vary between -6 to -11 essentially. I started logging at startup and it was pig rich, but this time as it warmed up, instead of staying rich the corrections kept getting better and better like they should. Darn sensor!!!!!!!!  Oh and it fired right up too. No repetitive cranking or exhaust popping after I leave off the ignition.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

What would cause the cam sensor to not be sending a signal to the ecu. When I run blocks 090 and 093 all the values are 0. I changed out the old sensor for another one and it runs better and is not pig rich anymore and there are no starting issues. The only issue I have is that all the cam position values are 0.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

You want it to be 0, that means it's perfectly in time :thumbup: 

Are you throwing any cam adjust codes?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

No codes anymore. It was throwing P0341 cam position sensor performance/range. It was running pig rich, very hard to start with popping after crank. I changed out the sensor and all that went away. My 02 corrections are wayyy better now. Between -7 and -11 and no codes as of yet and it starts up first crank now.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

My Sergeant just got our new website uploaded with my car. Please check out the whole website to learn more about Beat the Heat. Thank you again to all of the companies that have helped me out with this build!!!!!! 

http://www.bthgwinnett.org/jetta.html


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

:thumbup::thumbup:

Somehow this thread hasn't been showing up in my tapatalk


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I was wondering why you haven't showed your face here in a while.  Tomorrow there will be more updates with logs. I have been extremely busy at keeping the wife happy (shopping) and working like a crazy man. Tomorrow I am bolting down the race roll bar and running some logs under boost up to about 4k rpm if possible. Car is still running smooth as butter.  

I will also be lowering the gap on the plugs and possibly ordering my vf mounts depending on if I get my tail lights sold tomorrow.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

The DTC gremlins are killing me!! The P0341 keeps coming back. We tried disabling vvt to see if that was triggering it. When I check 093 it shows 0 on the cam position. When this dtc shows up it makes my 02 corrections go all the way to -22 to -23. I would clear it and it would come immediately back. So I had an idea. I disconnected the plug from the cam position sensor applied some dielectric grease and put it back on. I started the car up and what do you know the 02 corrections started to adapt from -14 at startup to -4 to -6 after about 15 minutes of idling. I am going to check the wires for splitting or cracking tonight and do some other trouble shooting to see if it fixes the issue. Hopefully it was just a bad connection that needed to be reseated and it will not show its face again.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

It's a wiring issue. You have an open circuit somewhere. Are all of the deleted circuits resistored? Even if they are turned off in maestro; some still need resistors.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I did not resistor anything to do with the cam timing and did not delete anything to do with it. Could it be because cam fault detection is turned off? 

I tried some trouble shooting today. I unplugged the sensor and turned the car on for about 15 seconds. I turned it off and plugged it back in. I turned the car back on. This time with a CEL. I revved it up to see if it would try to stall out when I let off. When I let off it back fired loud as heck!! I turned the car off. I waited about 10 seconds and turned the car back on. CEL was still present. 

This is one of those what the heck moments. The car started to run perfectly. 

02 Correction: +2 - -2 
Timing Advance: +13 - +15 
Lambda: 1.00 - 1.01 
ALLL the timing pull at idle went away 
Injector timing as never an issue 
Idle: 890 - 900 (before it was 840-870) 
It doesnt really want to stall out anymore when I let off the gas when I rev the engine 
It is easy to start


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Do I need to resistor the AC sensors. windshield fluid sensors, air bag sensors and brake pad sensors? The plugs are still there, but not hooked to anything.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I will be at Special Operations Training all week so nothing will get done to the car this week.  Plus it has been raining non stop.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Back in town from getting pepper balled, gassed, oc sprayed and getting my butt beat on a daily basis. I had an awesome week!!!


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> Back in town from getting pepper balled, gassed, oc sprayed and getting my butt beat on a daily basis. I had an awesome week!!!


Sick bastard! :laugh::beer:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Both of my arms are bruised pretty bad from all the defensive tactics and take downs we were doing and burnt to a crisp from mobile field force for 2 days straight. It is time to get back to the tuning though. Monday I will begin with some logs between 12-15 psi as long as it is still running good. lol


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Got the car out for a logging run today on the road. Logged 1st through 5th under various throttle positions. Car seems to be running pretty good. i did not notice anything detrimental in the logs, just the injectors running out at higher boost levels, but no running lean, thankfully. This is due to the oem pump and the surge tank not hooked up yet. Darn training put a hurting on me getting things done.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Surge tank from 034 Motorsports is just about ready to rock n roll. I just need to connect it electronically tomorrow once i find the proper nut size for the dual pumps. Then i will not need to keep the boost sooo low.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I have been having that P0341 code and decided for the heck of it to replace the cam sensor wheel. I took it out and what do you know, it was bent on one of the sides. Hopefully this will fix my code and no signal to the ecu showing with switching positions.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

3 weeks and 2 days until my first race. NOPI Nationals here I come!!!


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Beat the Heat said:


> 3 weeks and 2 days until my first race. NOPI Nationals here I come!!!


Would love to race against you


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Come out to NOPI and you can.


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Beat the Heat said:


> Come out to NOPI and you can.


it's on!!  

Are you gonna the bracket racing our test n tune ?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

It all depends on how my tuning goes over the next couple weeks. I got out today and made a couple log runs. I still have a little ways to go in terms of tuning. I will not be running E85 by then, I know that much.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I got some good logs yesterday. I am running 0 boost duty right now and pulled consistently 12 psi with no drop in pressure all the way up to 6k rpm. Car pulls hard too with just this amount of boost too. It actually surprised me and caught me off guard going into a wot pull in first gear. I think I have a faulty knock sensor though. It is showing timing pull almost all the time when everything is running perfect. I will probably just change them out for the heck of it.


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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

First, it's worth a check to see if they're both properly torqued. That uniform 6˚ pull really points to a loose sensor.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I know I torqued them to spec, but I will check again. Do you happen to remember if they are a torque and then turn or just torque?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I stopped worrying about the cam pos sensor for the time being. How did the boost look in those logs that I sent?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

The 034 motorsport dual surge tank is not officially hooked up and ready to put some fuel to the injectors. I also took off my knock sensors and sanded them with some emory paper to smooth the surface off along with the block. Doug told me that the constant timing pull might have been from a loose sensor or poor surface signal. I then torqued to 15 ft/lb's and put some electronic connector silicone to help with the connection.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Silicone is not optimal for low current electronics.

Just clean out with MAF or contact cleaner


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Wish i would have known that before. lol We will see what happens tomorrow when i start her up and run some more logs.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

It looks like i am going to be checking my cam timing and my timing belt, just to be on the safe side. I keep trouble shooting and come back to the same conclusion. It is not the wiring or the sensor. If it is, it is something that I have not thought to check yet.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I rechecked my timing belt and everything is spot on. Cam sprocket matches the valve cover perfectly as well as the flywheel marking centers up as well. Next up is the cam chain. God i hope that is not misaligned. I did not install the cams, so that will be tedious for me if needed.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

1 weekand 4 days until the first race. I am not counting down or anything!!!


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Beat the Heat said:


> 1 weekand 4 days until the first race. I am not counting down or anything!!!


Break out the HD Cam! I can't wait to see this car run!

I know it's bracket, but still will be sweet! and an awesome cause!!!eace:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

It is not race tuned yet and will only be running actuator pressure, 12 psi. I have been having issues with timing pull at idle and under wot and it is not knock related, on top of my cam sensor issue. I will be releasing some interesting news in the next week or so about the car and its tuning.  

NOPI is the perfect place to race it for the first time, because that is the crowd that we are trying to educate, younger kids. I posted a video clip on facebook on a few of my sponsors pages, check it out. 

I will let the suspense get to everyone, because this news is worth holding onto until I have everything worked out.


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Beat the Heat said:


> It is not race tuned yet and will only be running actuator pressure, 12 psi. I have been having issues with timing pull at idle and under wot and it is not knock related, on top of my cam sensor issue. I will be releasing some interesting news in the next week or so about the car and its tuning.
> 
> NOPI is the perfect place to race it for the first time, because that is the crowd that we are trying to educate, younger kids. I posted a video clip on facebook on a few of my sponsors pages, check it out.
> 
> I will let the suspense get to everyone, because this news is worth holding onto until I have everything worked out.


Awesome! I'm sure you've got something interesting in the works. Hope you get the bugs out. Stupid sensors! :screwy:


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

:thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

The night we are setting up is a Fast Friday Street Legal Drag night, so I am going to race my car all weekend. Fri-Sun. I figured it is long over due so I would make a full weekend of it. My Sergeant has an HD cam and I am going to try to borrow my buddies Go Pro.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Updates?


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

^^^this


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Rod Ratio said:


> ^^^this


^^^^That


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

DMVDUB said:


> ^^^^That


^^^what he said!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Updates:

Fixed a few odds and ends. Coolant flange was leaking and turns out it was warped to heck. Fixed that tonight. I finally mounted my harness and roll bar yesterday. My car is now tech inspection ready. 4 days and counting.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Woot! :beer:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Tomorrow I have to figure out what the weird loud clicking noise is coming from my front right at slow speeds. It is slow and loud. When I get on the gas it goes away.


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Damn , my car needs a windshield and 3 dyno pulls all i need :banghead: to be able to race . guess i gonna have to wait for next one. Import faceoff . (trackdays at AMP and Road ALT in the mean time) 

i'll prob register for the car show ,so i can park inside lol


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Cool. Like I said, just look for me at the booth. If my car is not there, I will be on the track.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Car goes to the track after work today. I am upping the boost to about 20 psi and will be shaking it down a little bit tonight. It is supposed to rain all weekend, but I am hoping that it holds out long enough to get a bunch of passes in.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

WELLLLLLLLLL. I had a freaking blast at NOPI. The car pulled nice and hard, but my driving prevented me from doing well. The tires hooked harder then I thought. They hooked right away and the car bogged down on both runs. Here is some video.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

And some pictures from eliminations courtesy of Ironside Racing Photography!!!!


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Saw the pics on Facebook! Lookin' good! :wave::thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I have been promoting the heck out of the car being there. I got a lot of positive feedback at the race. There were many little kids who wanted their picture taken next to it with the blue lights on. lolol.


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Beat the Heat said:


> I have been promoting the heck out of the car being there. I got a lot of positive feedback at the race. There were many little kids who wanted their picture taken next to it with the blue lights on. lolol.


I bet they did! That's cool as hell man! Keep up the good work opcorn:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Very cool! :thumbup:

What kind of times were you running?


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Definitely need launch control and NLS


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

The first day it rained so we did not get any qualifying runs in. Sunday they only let us have 1 qualifying run. The first run I launched at about 4000 rpm's and it bogged down and ran 15 second 1/8 mile because the boost did not come back quick enough. My first elimination round I launched at about 4500 rpm and it did the same thing. I quickly realized that I am going to have to launch at about 5500-6000 rpm, but I was already out at this time. The qualifying round I went 1/8 mile in 12 seconds at about 72 mph. Next time 2 step will be activated at about 5500 rpm and I might even use the nls too.


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## spartiati (May 19, 2008)

Launch control will certainly help. Where were you shifting? Seems very early since you were able to get into 5th by the end of your run.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I tried to shift at around 6000 rpm each gear. I think a couple of gears I shifted before. I have to work on it. Next Friday I am going to try to get to the track for a test'n'tune night and work on it some more.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

You should not be shifting at 6k rpm my friend


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## GermaniuM (Mar 29, 2001)

Maybe a shift light would help.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Where do I need to be shifting at?


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...find-precise-shift-points-optimal-shift-point



Car looks good, except why is the hood a little bit off kilter?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Yea, I need to realign the hood. So basically, on the dyno figure out where optimal torque is and shift there.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Do you still have a passenger seat? Maybe you can get a seasoned veteran to sit in and give you some lessons.


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## spartiati (May 19, 2008)

Beat the Heat said:


> Yea, I need to realign the hood. So basically, on the dyno figure out where optimal torque is and shift there.


You want to shift a little bit past where you make peak power. You don't want to be over revving as horsepower begins to decrease drastically past a certain point. I myself shift at around 7000-7200. With a 2.0 and an f23 peak power and torque will happen sooner than me, but 7000 is a good starting point. You can play around with it and see what the car prefers (later/earlier shifting).


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Beat the Heat said:


> So basically, on the dyno figure out where optimal torque is and shift there.



You have to consider HP and when you shift the next gear you want that gear to be at peak tq or after (since you are a turbo car). I'd shift closer to 7000-7200 but without seeing a dyno I am not sure.


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

i was there . was happy to see it on the track:thumbup:

you do need a lot of practice doh. 

First 1/4 run was like 17.xx doh . 
im sure with practice you ll get it 

i was planning on running the mk2 at ''test n tune'' . waited all freaking day  . couldn't wait anymore . left at 5pm


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

With how late things were due to having to do qualifying and eliminations in one day I was surprised they even got it in that evening. I know I need a lot of practice though.


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

Find a safe place to practice launching where the cops won't bust you
It appeared you weren't revving the engine up enough and for long enough before dumping the clutch to get a good launch. I typically will rev the engine to around 4k and hold it there until the christmas tree turns green and then dump the clutch. It obviously takes some practice to keep from spinning the tires to death which Is why you want to heat the tires up prior to launching. Good to see the car made it out and got some runs under its belt:thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Right now I am still working on something for the car that will help it out in the power department. Until it is finalized next week, I am still keeping it under wraps. The launching practice will have to hold off until after that is done. After that is done, I am going to try to get it to the track on a weekly or bi-weekly basis until the track closes for the year.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Best shot of the weekend, courtesy of www.boostedatlanta.com


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Beat the Heat said:


> Right now I am still working on something for the car that will help it out in the power department. Until it is finalized next week, I am still keeping it under wraps. The launching practice will have to hold off until after that is done.


You have more than enough hardware to run deep in the 12's. Adding more power won't help you with launching. Only practice will, and constantly changing the setup makes making any headway hard due to inconsistencies from practice session to session.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

20v master said:


> You have more than enough hardware to run deep in the 12's. Adding more power won't help you with launching. Only practice will, and constantly changing the setup makes making any headway hard due to inconsistencies from practice session to session.


x2

Master your current power level and setup, then upgrade it


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## [email protected] (Jun 24, 2009)

What clutch the car? What front brakes are on the car?

You should get a real set of wheels and tires and cut a 1.7 sixty foot every pass.. get the most out of what you built.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

[email protected] said:


> You should get a real set of wheels and tires


His wheels were given to him by a sponsor and he is obligated to run them until the end of the contract. A bunch of us have already made that comment to him.

However, I would encourage him to ask that sponsor if he can use their wheels for 'show' but then have a set of drag slicks for the 'go'.


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

[email protected] said:


> What clutch the car? What front brakes are on the car?
> 
> You should get a real set of wheels and tires and cut a 1.7 sixty foot every pass.. get the most out of what you built.





groggory said:


> His wheels were given to him by a sponsor and he is obligated to run them until the end of the contract. A bunch of us have already made that comment to him.
> 
> However, I would encourage him to ask that sponsor if he can use their wheels for 'show' but then have a set of drag slicks for the 'go'.


He also has a set of large Alcon brakes up front that will also limit the rim size he'll be able to run.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

T-Boy said:


> He also has a set of large Alcon brakes up front that will also limit the rim size he'll be able to run.


Which again, aren't necessary for a drag application.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I have to run the brakes due to sponsorship stuff. I am not adding more power to my current setup. I should have rephrased that. My car is going somewhere to be professionally dyno tuned by a company that has been around for a long time.  When it is done there I will be able to really test her on the track and learn to launch better. My aluminum FFE mounts are going in as well. I finally foud a set of VF's for them. I would say by November I should be able to have it on the track full power and not a safe tune due to sensor issues.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I was thinking about asking about the race rims up front when I drag, if I can find a really light set of 18's or 19's for racing that would not add the roational mass that my current 19's have. As t-stated though I still have the heavier 4-pot 355mm brakes that add to that mass. In time it will have everything it will need and be a real contender. For now, I am happy that I can get out to the track with my car and talk to kids about the program and get them off the street.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I FINALLY found a set of vf's!!!!!!!!!! I will be paying for them and getting them installed soon with the inserts.


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## lorge1989 (Sep 3, 2008)

Beat the Heat said:


> The first day it rained so we did not get any qualifying runs in. Sunday they only let us have 1 qualifying run. The first run I launched at about 4000 rpm's and it bogged down and ran *15 second 1/8 mile *because the boost did not come back quick enough. My first elimination round I launched at about 4500 rpm and it did the same thing. I quickly realized that I am going to have to launch at about 5500-6000 rpm, but I was already out at this time. The qualifying round I went *1/8 mile in 12 seconds at about 72 mph*. Next time 2 step will be activated at about 5500 rpm and I might even use the nls too.


I'm not trying to be a dick but that is just terrible. Go drive on the street some more, don't waste your time at the track. Times like that mean you have a ton of learning to do. First time I went to the track with a tuned GTI I ran low 10s and that was terrible, so I thought. 

You have the power like they are saying you just need to practice.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

The time on the track is not a waste. No matter how bad or good I do, I am out there to talk to kids about illegal street racing. That is what Beat the Heat is all about. Getting the kids off the street and onto the track where they can race the cops legally for $20 instead of a $400 fine, jail time and even worse kill themselves or someone else. I got a lot of support at NOPI and we had a lot of kids come talk to us along with adults as well. 

I cannot drive the car on the street. It is all strobed out with emergency lights with law enforcement emblems on it. It is a track only car. I know I have a lot to learn and that is fine. I will do that on the track. The horrible times do not bother me at all.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Perhaps there is a way to get the local track to offer some test and tune time for you beat the heat guys.

Track rental of some sort


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

We go there on the street legal drag nights, which is their test and tune night. I did not have time before NOPI to do that. It is ok. I still had a blast!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Things are looking up here lately. I have a line on custom rated suspension finally. Next week I should have the money for some VF mounts. I have a shop right across the street from the jail, where my car is at, that has a dyno. Soooooo. Next week i should be able to start getting some runs on a dyno.  I am going to progressively log the car starting off at actuator pressure and working my way up in boost and timing. The finaly run will be on E85 when I burn off the rest of the 93 octane in the tank.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

You don't need VF mounts to dyno.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I know, but I need them to race.


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Were you losing traction? What happened at the track exactly? 

You should be in the 8's at least.

Though, Finding the launch "sweet spot" on these cars isn't an easy task so there's that. 

Personally I'd just practice my launches as much as possible then move on to actually getting her down the rest of the track. 

Also, what trans? 02M 6spd or 02J 5spd? This will make a big difference. eace:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I did not launch at a high enough rpm and it bogged down off the line. I am thinking about the amount of wheel hop I will get when I do start to spin off the line when I try do get it launching good. I need a lot of practice off the line. My reaction time, my 60' and shifting. It is an 02m 6 speed.


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Beat the Heat said:


> I did not launch at a high enough rpm and it bogged down off the line. I am thinking about the amount of wheel hop I will get when I do start to spin off the line when I try do get it launching good. I need a lot of practice off the line. My reaction time, my 60' and shifting. It is an 02m 6 speed.


Wheel hop sucks. If you have decent mounts it'll calm it down a bit. It's kind of a toss up of launching high enough to spin and not hop (but you're spinning) or launching a little lower and you hop. My best results have always been a little spin, it catches and it's all good from there. Wheel hop is just a good way to break stuff. 

Just figure out where the sweet spot is and set your launch control at that RPM, then ride the clutch out of the hole aka. feather.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

DMVDUB said:


> Wheel hop sucks. If you have decent mounts it'll calm it down a bit. It's kind of a toss up of launching high enough to spin and not hop (but you're spinning) or launching a little lower and you hop. My best results have always been a little spin, it catches and it's all good from there. Wheel hop is just a good way to break stuff.
> 
> Just figure out where the sweet spot is and set your launch control at that RPM, then ride the clutch out of the hole aka. feather.


No, you don't feather the clutch with sticky tires unless you want to burn up the clutch. Once he has VF side mounts, even with just the poly that VF supplies, and dogbone inserts, the axle hop should be a thing of the past. At that point, it's launch at high enough rpm to not bog, and stay WOT and let the sticky tires do their job. That means yes, let it keep spinning. If it takes too long to hook, aka you spin too much and can tell you aren't accelerating like a bat out of hell, then drop tire pressures until it starts to hook at expected.


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

Granny shifting not double clutching like you should! :laugh:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I also have custom rated suspension coming soon, to help the mounts out with the hop as well. 650 in the back and 600 up front. I have a couple of goody items that will help out with shifting too. Marcus helped me out with the rates earlier in this thread.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

The suspension and a few other things will be getting done over the winter. I am pulling the center console out completely and replacing it with something purty!!!! I am getting a few billet items too, so that I do not have to keep replacing the dang coolant flange.


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

20v master said:


> No, you don't feather the clutch with sticky tires unless you want to burn up the clutch. Once he has VF side mounts, even with just the poly that VF supplies, and dogbone inserts, the axle hop should be a thing of the past. At that point, it's launch at high enough rpm to not bog, and stay WOT and let the sticky tires do their job. That means yes, let it keep spinning. If it takes too long to hook, aka you spin too much and can tell you aren't accelerating like a bat out of hell, then drop tire pressures until it starts to hook at expected.


meh... I've always feathered it on this car with DR's and it's worked like a charm, albeit I have gone through almost as many transmissions as oil filters since I've has this thing :banghead: With my other cars I would just launch it hard and control it with the go pedal. Never had much luck doing it like that with this car though. There's also a difference when running DOT approved DR's vs Slicks though.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

The hoosier R1's hooked like a mother at the track. Hopefully I will not have to feather it too much.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Beat the Heat said:


> The hoosier R1's hooked like a mother at the track. Hopefully I will not have to feather it too much.


How do you know if you were bogging off the line?


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

20v master said:


> How do you know if you were bogging off the line?


Watch the video. He doesn't really even rev the engine. He just starts to give it gas and lets the clutch out and it bogs. At least thats what it looks like.

edit see post 809 for video


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I got it up to about 4k and let off the clutch. I know now that I need to get it up a lot higher then that. I am thinking my next trip to the track is going to be Nov 1. Night before the heavy weight shootout in Atlanta. My tune should be a little better then too.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I ordered 2 new knock sensors, 2 knock sensor connectors and a new cam position sensor. Hopefully all of this will fix my cam sensor dtc and my pulling timing on all 4 cylinders. I figured that there is a possiblity that the 2 cam sensors that I swapped in that were used could have been bad. I also noticed that both of my knock sensor connector tabs were broke, so they were not locked in like they should be. The knock sensors themselves are cheap, so i figured why not. I should have it this week and hopefully by Nov 1 I will have it all figured out and fixed. I am racing Nov 1 and Nov 8 at the track before it closes for the year.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

One quick question regarding getting the wire out of the old knock sensor connector. I was reading that you can use a paperclip if you take one end and pound it down with a hammer. Will this work? I do not have the time or money to order a whole expensive kit.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I realized I have one other issue to fix as well. On my last run at the track, at idle my car is fluctuating like crazy. It is not stalling, but the rpm's idle up and down from 900rpm to 1500 over and over and over and over. I am thinking it is a vacuum leak of some sort. I just have to track it down. It is basically non-stop. I turn the car off and turn it back on. It idles fine, until I start to drive. When i stop again it starts it all over again.


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

Have you done a throttle body alignment?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Yes I have. I know its not a boost leak. Boost holds like a champ. At first I thought i broke something off the line. Lol


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

Don't take it as an insult buddy; many times it's something stupid that bite ya:laugh:

_Posted via *Topify* using iPhone/iPad_


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Believe me I know.. I have had many moments like that while doing this build. I completely forgot to put a coupler on one of the IC hoses and was wondering why it kept stalling out on me. That was one of those slap yourself in the forehead moments. haha!!!

Once I get the sensors in I am going to go through all the hoses with a fine tooth comb, take the tb off and check it. I may replace the plugs again, just in case. I going change the cts as well, since I did not do it when I put the engine back together. I am thinking it may be the actuator hose. I used all braided vacuum hose except for on there. I am thinking maybe it blew off.

If you read through the thread, I have received a lot of helpful information from a wide variety of people on here. I appreciate all of it. The good and the bad.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

My billet in tank from INA came in today. Wow what a piece of workmanship. It is definitely a quality piece. I will post up pictures once I get it installed, probably this week some time.

I also wanted to welcome EAA Engineering to the Beat the Heat team. They will be helping out with a few goodies in conjunction with INA Engineering. I am getting their de-power steering kit, race alternator setup and manual timing belt tension setup. EAA I look forward to working with you and INA.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Pics of INA Billet In Tank! Reviews soon.




















Taken with my new Nokia Lumia 1020!! I love this phone.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Beat the Heat said:


> Pics of INA Billet In Tank! Reviews soon.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


FYI that pump is not the E85 compatible pump. I would send it back and swap it out for the E85 version.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Preparing for next year I am getting a second AEB head, which is going to be ported and polished by Pag Parts. It is going to have a full Supertech valvetrain and a set of CAT cams. This is in anticipation of the future of this build. That is all I am saying for the time being.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Stone Mountain VW is ordering an OEM AEB Head for me and it should be in this week. I have talked to CAT Cams. They are going to send the cams right to Al. I am going to see if Supertech can do the same and have everything up to him by next week so this can begin. I will update with pictures when I can, but it may be a while before it is completed.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Beat the Heat said:


> Stone Mountain VW is ordering an OEM AEB Head for me and it should be in this week. I have talked to CAT Cams. They are going to send the cams right to Al. I am going to see if Supertech can do the same and have everything up to him by next week so this can begin. I will update with pictures when I can, but it may be a while before it is completed.


For that kind of money you could just buy a CNC ported head from IE and call it a day.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I love Al's work and he has been nothing but good to me. I am loyal to those who have taken their time to help out Beat the Heat and stick with them.  In the end it is going to be one killer head especially with the over sized valves and solid lifters. I am getting CAT's 1013778 cams. 282/269 duration specifically for solid lifters.


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

:thumbup::thumbup:

all you need now is a gt42xx to have a kick aa_ss drag car :wave:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6835151-Fastest-mk4-in-the-world


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

This is becoming a crazy build....hope you have plans for BIGGER turbo and some real slicks.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Oh and did I mention that I have been in contact with KAPS Transmissions.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am also working on a sequential transmission setup too from KAPS.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am going to the track tomorrow night. I will post up times and speeds afterwards. I have a lot going on as we speak, so there will be a lot to add over the next few months.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Last race of the year!!!










Time slip to boot.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

More updates of what is to come over the winter.....

Power steering delete from EAA Engineering
Racing alternator setup from EAA Engineering/INA Engineering
Manual timing belt tensionor from EAA Engineering


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

Beat the Heat said:


> More updates of what is to come over the winter.....
> 
> Power steering delete from EAA Engineering
> Racing alternator setup from EAA Engineering/INA Engineering
> Manual timing belt tensionor from EAA Engineering


I was running 14.1's with occasional 13.9's with a k04 and street tires. Full weight jetta....to boot. Have you dynoed the car yet?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Nope, not yet. I am getting there. I need to contact Dyno-Proven right behind the jail. That would be the easiest to get to. They have a dyno-jet dyno. I was having fun last night with the 2step though. Out of the hole it was not as quick as I want, but after I hit second it took off like heck. I was actually gaining on the mustang as you can see by my 1/8 mile mph. Oh i was 198 in the left lane. If i did not leave off of the gas, due to what I thought was something bad, I probably would have been in the 15's. I was told later that front end floating feeling is something that happens.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am pretty sure if I set my 2step for like 5800-6000 rpm, it will solve my slow launches. The tire briefly spun and then hooked. It did not bog down, but did slow down a little. I did not have the bog down like I had a NOPI.


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Beat the Heat said:


> I am pretty sure if I set my 2step for like 5800-6000 rpm, it will solve my slow launches. The tire briefly spun and then hooked. It did not bog down, but did slow down a little. I did not have the bog down like I had a NOPI.


Great to hear you're not bogging anymore! 

I'm just waiting for you to get everything dialed in and post up a 12.XXX time slip for us  

Also, can you run skinnies on the rear in your class? Save some weight and friction. Also, the wheels look hot but you know they're all wrong. I love the way they look though


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Maybe all those blue lights are distracting you ?  Typical MKIV, the driver rear light is not working.


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

gotta work on reaction time . GL!


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## lorge1989 (Sep 3, 2008)

BR_337 said:


> gotta work on reaction time . GL!


3.0 60ft....


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

:thumbup:
bad ass!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

The lights did not distract me at all. The 2step distracted me because it was the first time I used it. That is why my reaction time sucked. I was not fully concentrating on the tree when I revved it to where the 2step activated. The 60 foot time is partially because of my reaction time and my launch not where it needs to be. Once I get everything squared away all these time will get much much better.  

Things have come a long way since I started this thread though.


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## lorge1989 (Sep 3, 2008)

60 ft doesn't include RT. When you begin to move is when the time clock starts. If you look at the bottom you lost by your difference in 1/4 mile time PLUS the difference in the RT. That was a true 3.0 60ft.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

My times will get better over time. I am more concerned about getting the word out about the program and getting my car out there so people notice us and want to come up to us and talk about what we are about. I do not see why my car cannot be a low 13 high 12 second car with the current setup. The main hold back is me and my inexperience in drag racing.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Pictures of parts from EAA Engineering. Dave from EAA has some awesome stuff for the 1.8T and racing.

EAA Race Alternator setup. This in conjunction with the power steering delete gets rid of the big gaudy bracket on the side of the engine for the alternator, power steering and A/C.

Race Alternator Bracket









Power Steering Delete. This gets rid of the power steering pump completely. The line you see connects to both bungs on the steering rack to keep it lubricated and not go bad without the pump present.









Manual Timing Belt tensioner. It is just what is says.










This last tid bit is courtesy of Stone Mountain VW local to me in Snellville GA. They gave me a used head for the race head that I am building with the help of PAG Parts, Supertech and CAT Cams.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I wanted to give an update to everyone following this thread.

There are a lot of good things happening with the program lately. I can never thank all of the companies who have helped Gwinnett Beat the Heat enough. No matter how many times I say it. Good things are coming soon to help us educate kids about illegal street racing and how to race safely. I will give a formal update very soon on these good things. My good friends on here already know about it, so please keep it hush hush until I formally announce it. 

I am formally announcing that I WILL be at SOWO and Waterfest in 2014. This I can promise. I hope to meet and talk with each and everyone of you who has been keeping up with things in this thread.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I got a real good shot of the car the other day. Remember illegal street racing can land you on the wrong side of this fenceline......


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

We were just invited to an awesome event in February. It is a boy scout event in Gatlinburg Tennessee called Winterfest. There are going to be somewhere around 3500 kids there. This is an excellent opportunity to talk to a lot of kids and interact with them. We are going to have an interactive display at the convention center.

NGP Racing is now an official sponsor for Gwinnett Beat the Heat's drag Jetta. They are helping me out with a set of their type 1 coilovers. The spring rates are higher then OEM and should compliment everything nicely.

Vibra-Technic is making me a custom set of engine/tranny mounts for drag racing and should go well with the suspension from NGP. 

AWE Tuning is also on board as of this past week. They are helping out with a real nice boost gauge and a pedal set. 

Alcohol Injection Systems is helping out with a direct port/pre-turbo water meth system.

There is a lot of good stuff happening support wise and educational wise. If any of you live in the Gwinnett area, Dec. 14 I will be supporting Stone Mtn VW in Snellville, GA at their Toys for tots event and garage sale.


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

Was thinking last night, which is usually costly. Your car is to discourage street racing, but isn't street legal.  Just an observation, is all. Hopefully my F23 will be complete by next weekend.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Yea, when I start thinking it usually does the same thing with my wallet. haha!! 

That is the point. We try to get them off the street and come to the track and race our drag cars/bike. The first big non-street legal thing is the Sheriff's emblem. We work for the department, but the program is not department run. We have permission to have the emblems on our cars, but they are not "official department vehicles." I would get into a lot of trouble driving it on the street. We are about to start going into local schools and having classes with students soon.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am sure you will enjoy your F23 as much as I have been enjoying mine. It is a peppy turbo, but very soon I will be pushing mine to the extreme limits that it has.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)




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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

Just got home and opened the box to find this. The turbo is puny next to this thing. 










Did you plug the port on the hot side or are you running an EGT gauge?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I plugged it. I might run an EGT gauge in the future though.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I finally got the head torn down as much as I could and got it sent to PAG Parts for the machine work.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

For those of you that are local to the Atlanta/Gwinnett area. On December 14,from 10-2, I will be at Stone Mountain Volkswagen in Snellville supporting a toys for tots event with my car. Please feel free to stop by and talk.


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## 4ceFed4 (Apr 3, 2002)

Beat the Heat said:


>


I just picked up the power steering delete and race alternator kit from EAA as well. What are the orange things in the pic with the steering line? My kit didnt come with that. Post up some pictures once you get the new alternator mounted up!

:beer:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Those are fittings for the steering rack to connect the stainless line too.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I will get plenty of pics up of it. It is not going to be until after Dec 14 though. I have an event I am attending and then I am bringing it home to do a lot of work to, including those items.


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## 4ceFed4 (Apr 3, 2002)

Beat the Heat said:


> Those are fittings for the steering rack to connect the stainless line too.


Thanks for the reply, I contacted EAA. If you have the fittings handy would you mind sending me a close up picture of them?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Hit me up with a private message with your email. I will get a picture when I get home later today of them.


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## EAA Engineering (Nov 29, 2012)

4ceFed4 said:


> Thanks for the reply, I contacted EAA. If you have the fittings handy would you mind sending me a close up picture of them?


Which kit did you order? If it was the 'basic' synthetic rubber hose version, the fittings you got are blue and won't come w/the red caps that are on the black adapters that come with the stainless version. The caps just protect the threads, but don't actually get used in the conversion. 

Let us know if you need any more help, we are on the forums and email daily. :thumbup:

Rich, thanks for posting up the pictures in your thread! :beer:

-Dave


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## 4ceFed4 (Apr 3, 2002)

EAA Engineering said:


> Which kit did you order? If it was the 'basic' synthetic rubber hose version, the fittings you got are blue and won't come w/the red caps that are on the black adapters that come with the stainless version. The caps just protect the threads, but don't actually get used in the conversion.
> 
> Let us know if you need any more help, we are on the forums and email daily. :thumbup:
> 
> ...


I just took another look and the adapter fittings were in the box, I must have missed them first time around. I ordered the stainless version as well :thumbup:


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## EAA Engineering (Nov 29, 2012)

4ceFed4 said:


> I just took another look and the adapter fittings were in the box, I must have missed them first time around. I ordered the stainless version as well :thumbup:


 Excellent!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

After my toys for tots event on the 14th I am going to get on getting everything installed. Hopefully by then I will have the alternator. I will also be getting my suspension from NGP on around the same time and hopefully my new custom engine mounts from Vibra-Technic.


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

Beat the Heat said:


> Got some more Pictars!!!
> 
> I could not remember if i put a picture of this up before, but this is the Pro-Imports custom charge pipe for the K04-02X series turbo for use in the MKIV VW's. It cost a pretty penny when I originally got it so I told myself I was going to use it.


Where'd you source this at? I'm wanting something like this as well.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Pro-Imports sold the charge pipe, but I think GHL made it for them. Pro-Imports went out of business a while back though, so they are no longer being sold. Check your inbox I sent you a msg. 

I am still using Pro-Imports oil and coolant lines they made back then too.


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

Back at cha.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Next year I am having a custom fuel cell made by Mike P. I am going from the oem fuel cell to about a 3-5 gallon fuel cell.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

This just in......

Beat the Heat's president was approached by a production company about creating a reality tv show the would revolve around the program and what we do. I will be having a phone interview with someone within the next couple weeks about it. Nothing is definitive yet, but the company has put out a lot of shows that have hit it off very well.


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## tom8thebomb (Nov 28, 2002)

T-Boy said:


> Granny shifting not double clutching like you should! :laugh:



sooo i stumble onto this thread....

ummm not really sure why this is a sticky.....

I see there are a lot of big players (adults that have mechanical knowledge/experience) giving advice in harmony. which is cool by all means.

This thread went from ehhhh (another gli build) to holy F**kin S**t B*Als the amount of money in parts under the hood, faster than your last time slip (16.1s)!!!! Now thats impressive.

Jaust saying again thats impressive! Hopefully we can meet on the track.

-tom


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

The build is a work in progress and so is my driving on the track. In the spring I plan on working on my launches a lot more and building more power. The thread was stickied not because of the build, but because of what Beat the Heat is and what we do. VMG thinks it is an awesome cause. 

I hope to see you at the track as well sometime. I am always up for a good friendly grudge match. 

I will be sitting down with John very soon to discuss some things to come.


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## JDM-JTI (Sep 23, 2004)

car looks like it runs 10s but runs 15s? :screwy:

take a note from USP motorsports 10 second STOCK looking GLI and copy their motor setup and you will have on seriously badass car :thumbup:

you have a crazy awesome foundation but the turbo setup makes NO sense to me in terms of what the motor and drag setup should be capable of. I understand this whole build is for instructing kids and telling them to take it to the track rather than the street n such which is great - but why not teach em to do it right and go all out - at least toss a precision 5858 in there


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Frankenturbo has supported me from the beginning. The car is built for some major power, but I will support those who support me all day long, even if it means I do not have a 10 second car. yet...... I built it with the future in mind and in the future there will be much more power and better times. Right now I should have a High 12 to low 13 second car once it is tuned properly. My launch killed my time and I let off of the throttle on that run due to a cold track and my front end started to feel real funny after the 1/8 mile point. Unfortunately that was the only run I got that night, due to a lot of accidents on the track and no traction.


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

Doug and many others have supported this project...for what it is. To keep kids off the street killing each other. Prime example was just a few days ago. It may not be the best or fastest, but it gets the message out. If Doug and the FT team keep building on what they've got then bigger is always in the future. 

IMO, its basically a solid budget build. Which is what the majority of the populous is gonna do anyway. Much like my own F23 setup.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

After this spring it is not going to he budget anymore. Lol. Real drag slicks and wheels, race head, direct port w/m and pre turbo water meth, race cams and 3 gallon custom fuel cell with a bunch of other goodies.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Beat the Heat said:


> After this spring it is not going to he budget anymore. Lol. Real drag slicks and wheels, race head, direct port w/m and pre turbo water meth, race cams and 3 gallon custom fuel cell with a bunch of other goodies.


3 gallon fuel cell sounds like a really bad idea. Have fun filling up every 50 miles.


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> 3 gallon fuel cell sounds like a really bad idea. Have fun filling up every 50 miles.


It's a track car now.


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## WiKKiDTT (Aug 13, 2009)

Frakenturbo = Epic Fail and Disappointment. Just do a PagParts Build and save yourself the aggravation and make some real power.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I love my F23 and Doug's products!! I have never had any issues with the two that I had/have.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Brake Weight said:


> It's a track car now.


I'm pretty sure Aaron was using more than 1 gallon of E98 every pass. Obviously he is making much more power than this guy but filling up the fuel cell at the track multiple times seems like a pain in the ass.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

When I was talking to Mike I told him 3-5 gallons. It is not being made until next year, so I have time to contemplate.


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## maradits (Aug 3, 2010)

seems way down on power based on the MPH. Pretty sure stock turbo 1.8t cars have similar/higher trap speeds. Obviously the launch and 60' are big players in the ET, but based on the mods this car has the trap SHOULD be AT LEAST pretty well over 100. A roughly 300hp car of this weight should be trapping 100-110 mph regardless of the et.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I was not wot after the 1/8 mile point. The front end started to feel like it was going to let go and the thought of 4 previous accidents due to a cold track entered my mind so I decided to let off to prevent a possible accident. If you look at my mph at the 1/8 mile it was actually higher then the person racing against me and he trapped about 10mph higher then me at the 1/4 mile point.


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## spartiati (May 19, 2008)

Short shifting will also lower overall mph. I'm sure next season we will see much better numbers.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Welcome back to the discussion Steve.  I am sure we will as well.

As I said before I am working on a lot of things over the winter that will overall improve a lot of things. Some of them I cannot divulge right now though.


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

Next season is always better. Lessons learned and practical knowledge put to use.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I got some more stuff in from AWE Tuning. Some much needed pedals, so my foot will stop slipping off the clutch and an electric boost gauge.


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

:laugh:AWE still throws in candy with their shipments! :heart: those guys


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am saving it for a long day working on my car.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Beat the Heat said:


> I got some more stuff in from AWE Tuning. Some much needed pedals, so my foot will stop slipping off the clutch and an electric boost gauge.


I am wearing that exact same shirt right now :thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

This week I am also getting Amsoil synthetic engine oil and transmission oil from EAA Engineering. Saturday the Jetta is coming home for the winter for much needed upgrades.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I came home today and I thought it was an early christmas!!!! 

I got a bunch of goodies from EAA Engineering to keep everything in my engine running tip top shape!!! Thanks EAA!!










I also got some suspension in from New German Performance!!! This will definitely help my launches off the line. Thank you NGP Racing!!



















I look forward to working with both of EAA and NGP in my future endeavors with Beat the Heat and our vision on educating as many kids about illegal street racing as we can. I will be at a local VW dealership Saturday helping kids have a Christmas this year with Toys for Tots.


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## EAA Motorsports (May 23, 2013)

Who donated the dog food and old shoes? :laugh:

:thumbup: for racing fluids, just glad we could help!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

The shoes I wear when I work on my car and the dog food is for my terror of a dog, courtesy of my wife. 

This coming week I get to start to put on all of your goodies!!! Thank you again for your support. When I get INA's billet coolant flanges, I will be calling you for custom AN lines as well for the coolant system and custom lines for my fuel system when I eventually upgrade to E85 down the road.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Got the car home on Saturday after the Toys for Tots event. We had a blast and got to talk to some awesome folks from around he area. 

These fun parts from INA Engineering will be coming to my doorstep soon. I am working on getting a mishimoto or other performance radiator to work with on making AN lines for the flanges. I want to cut off the top ports of the radiator and replace them with 20AN bungs.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Okay, I have an on going issue that I cannot figure out. Anytime the car is underload and I come to a stop and depress the clutch the rpm's go super low and the car will stall or almost stalls unless I give it a blip of gas before I stop. I was at the track at NOPI and I blew a vaccum line off, so it was idling up and down over and over. When it was doing this, it would not stall on me at all when coming to a stop. Weird, I know. This was all with the MAF not connected, so it is not maf related. My vaccum at idle is typically usually right a 20. The only dtc I have is P0341(cam position sensor range/performance), but that is another issue all together. Could this be a maestro issue where my idle torque is too low or another issue that I have not found yet? I am also running an S4 TB. I have the car home now, so I am going to work on all these fun issues.  Any help is appreciated as usual.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

I'll offer the same advice I usually do on this sort of issues as a first step.

Pressure test the intake and seafoam test the exhaust for leaks. This is a great first step, so do it carefully and take your time.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Those INA flanges look amazing


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I can't wait to get them. I have plans on getting a mishimoto radiator, cutting the outlet and inlet off and welding on AN fittings to have custom AN lines made for the coolant system from EAA. This would practically eliminate the worry about leaks on the track and keep everything in place. Down the road I want to delete the coolant ball and go with something similar to what Mike Pauciullo has. I am also planning on deleting the heater core lines, as it looks like the flange does not have that anyway.


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## EAA Engineering (Nov 29, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> I can't wait to get them. I have plans on getting a mishimoto radiator, cutting the outlet and inlet off and welding on AN fittings to have custom AN lines made for the coolant system from EAA. This would practically eliminate the worry about leaks on the track and keep everything in place. Down the road I want to delete the coolant ball and go with something similar to what Mike Pauciullo has. I am also planning on deleting the heater core lines, as it looks like the flange does not have that anyway.


We're ready! :thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am still waiting to hear back from Motovicity on the Mishimoto radiator, so hopefully I will by the end of the day today.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

This is also what I am working on this week....


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## 4ceFed4 (Apr 3, 2002)

I forget what front brakes you have?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I have Stasis big brakes, but I am going to oem gti brakes so I can use real drag slicks later into next year. I was contemplating going with 2.0L brakes to use 13's or 14's but I am just going to go with 15x10 (5" back spacing up front) and 15x4 (no back spacing in the back).


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Mike Pauciullo convinced me to try something different. 13x10 up front and 15x4 in the back. This way it will take away from stress off my drivetrain. Just need to find some mk3 calipers and rotors and have them drilled to 5x100.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I found a guy local to me that is giving me the mk3 2.0L carrier and calipers. I contacted Adams Rotors about custom drilled 10.1" rotors too. We shall see how this works out.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

This Wednesday I am starting up the tear down process of the engine bay. Still waiting on some parts to come up, but since I am not tearing the engine apart it should not be that bad. First is going to be getting rid of the oem alternator and that big ole bracket and replacing it with EAA's unit. Then I am tearing out ALL the power steering stuff and installing EAA's kit. Then I get to start tinkering with the coolant lines and figuring out how I am going to route everything when I delete the coolant ball and oil cooler. I then have to have a custom inline overflow made that will fit right behind the radiator, which is going to be Mishimoto with AN bungs welded on to go with INA's flanges. There is going to be some fun custom AN work going into this. 

My plan is to have a custom water meth tank made to fit where the coolant ball was in the corner. Then I have to figure out what route I am going to go with that and what size nozzles I will need for the direct port and pre-turbo. I also want to figure out a better location for my dual surge tank. I noticed that water drips down where it is when it rains and I do not want to risk a fire, plus I noticed that there is a small fuel leak.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I think I finally found a good wheel setup and company for my car. Instead of going the custom Bogart route, I have been looking at MRW racing wheels. They make a 13x10 and the offset does not cost anything extra and they make a 15x4.5. At $70(back) and $90(front) a wheel and 14lb/13lb a piece that is not bad at all. For an extra $30 or so you can get a bead lock for them.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Wednesday I will have my new 42DD Ultimate Catch Can and laster this week I will have a full line up of VDO gauges!!! Thanks 42 Draft Designs and VDO Gauges!!

My plan is to have a new center plate laser cut and have another cut to fit where the top center air vents are and mount my gauges in those areas.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Beat the Heat said:


> I think I finally found a good wheel setup and company for my car. Instead of going the custom Bogart route, I have been looking at MRW racing wheels. They make a 13x10 and the offset does not cost anything extra and they make a 15x4.5. At $70(back) and $90(front) a wheel and 14lb/13lb a piece that is not bad at all. For an extra $30 or so you can get a bead lock for them.


Aluminum 13x10s would weigh about 7 pounds if I remember correctly


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am probably going to call them this coming week to see if they can help out in any way. Either way I cannot complain about the price. Less then $400 for a set of light drag wheels. Even if I want bead locks it will be less then $800.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Beat the Heat said:


> I am probably going to call them this coming week to see if they can help out in any way. Either way I cannot complain about the price. Less then $400 for a set of light drag wheels. Even if I want bead locks it will be less then $800.


I would invest in some legit front drag wheels. You can run stock rears for the time being it won't affect your times much at all.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I already have a line on some Weld Racing Drag Wheels. A bit pricier, but they are nice.

Yesterday I decided before it got too cold to get some work done on the car. I got my AWE Tuning Pedals installed. It is nice to know, now my foot will not slip off of the clutch pedal, since the rubber on my gli clutch pedal broke and I could not get the pedal to stay on.

Before










After










I also started to make a template for a gauge cluster I am putting in the center top air vent.


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## EAA Engineering (Nov 29, 2012)

Just for reference, our 13x8 aluminum Keizers (for Solo II) are a tad over 7 #'s. If you find a 13x10 under 10#'s that's pretty good.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Temporary gauge panel until the real one is laser cut. I ended pu cutting a groove in the bottom where the panel is, this way there is no need to rivet or screw it in. It will pop right out and still stay securely in place. You can still see roughly where I dremeled it out. I have to smooth it out with a razor.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I took advantage of the nice weather today and installed INA's new in tank billet fuel pump. The install went pretty smooth. Cranked over first time and it not very loud either. My 2 pumps on my surge tank are loud as heck anyways.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I wish the weather would get nice out so that I can work on my car. I was rained out today because of bad weather after work. On a positive note, I found out that I am getting a set of Driveshaft Shop axles. Getting rid of the raxles with the future in mind. 

NOPI also invited Beat the Heat to tour with them to all of their events with them this year. So looks like I might be coming to Bristol in the spring after SOWO. We also teamed up with a movie production company that made a movie called, Adrenaline, that is about the tragedy of street racing and follows the recovery of someone and their venture back onto the track. Even with disabilities from the outcome of the street racing.


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

More on this.









It looks like 1 piece isn't the same as stock, but the other is a direct replacement.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

MÄDDNESSS said:


> More on this.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The thermostat housing looks like it makes access much easier to the hose clamps


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> The thermostat housing looks like it makes access much easier to the hose clamps


X2

Does that coolant flange come in an OEM replacement option?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I honestly do not know if Issam is going to have more then one configuration. It works good for me because I am having custom AN lines made for my coolant system. You can have fittings with threads or not.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am contemplating something right now. CAT told me they have a dual cam sprocket kit. $1500USD for everything needed including the cams. I think I am going to bite the bullet and go for it.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Beat the Heat said:


> I am contemplating something right now. CAT told me they have a dual cam sprocket kit. $1500USD for everything needed including the cams. I think I am going to bite the bullet and go for it.


For what purpose?

The motor is built for 800hp but the turbo kit would struggle to make 350???


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

For this year, yes it will be too much for the turbo. Next year I am going to be running a setup that will hopefully get me above 500. I would much rather build it up now and have a lot less to do later when I go much bigger. This is also one of those things that will grab the attention of people and get them to come talk to me about the car and the program too. This will also be beneficial to the cam setup I will be running. Check out below though. CAT sent me this picture of the kit.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

It looks like I will not be going that route yet though.


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

Beat the Heat said:


> I honestly do not know if Issam is going to have more then one configuration. It works good for me because I am having custom AN lines made for my coolant system. You can have fittings with threads or not.


I was thinking of doing the same thing. Makes it MUCH easier to work around that area, especially with the stock TIP placement the FTs run.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

It is going to be even better since I am getting rid of the oem oil cooler. Those coolant lines will be gone. This week I am going to try to get my suspension installed, new drive shafts installed, 42dd catch can installed and cut out the front sway bar. I gotta get it ready for our first event in 3 weeks at a Boy Scouts of America Explorer competition in Gatlinburg, TN. We will have a display setup talking to as many kids as we can.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Driveshaft Shop 800hp axles came in today!!! Just need a few more things and I will be ready to rock and roll next week with lots of updates, pictures and installation stories.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I decided to go with hydro lifters instead of solid, due to some stuff coming up. Either way the cams, springs and cam gear are on their way to PAG Parts as we speak. I do not know what series cams they are sending me, as they do not match up to any that are listed. Duration is 264/257.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Vibra-Technics engine mounts and VDO gauges were shipped today. Next week is going to be busy for me.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Gauges came in today from VDO.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

More stuff to work on next week!!!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Engine mounts came in. They look like very good quality. For those of you that do not know. Vibra Technics is a UK based company that specialized in synthetic rubber compounds for race applications. Right now the only US company that sells them or is going to sell them is EAA Engineering.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Cool mounts never seen those before :thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I never saw them either until I found them. They make a lot of stuff for european cars for road racing. They made me custom synthetic rubber mounts for drag racing. The rubber is enclosed inside of it. You cannot see it. At first I thought they were solid mounts, until I researched them a little more. I will definitely have a review on them once I get them installed. The dog bone is an insert and can be shimmed if I need to angle the engine out a little.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Test fitted and mounted my new Ultimate Catch Can from 42DD. It looks phenomenal!!!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Race alternator is in as well. This thins is sleek. Very small and very light.


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## RodgertheRabit II (Sep 13, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> I took advantage of the nice weather today and installed INA's new in tank billet fuel pump. The install went pretty smooth. Cranked over first time and it not very loud either. My 2 pumps on my surge tank are loud as heck anyways.


Any more info on this pump/install?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I have not had the chance to drive it yet. The install was straight forward and easy. The hardest part was getting that seal to seat right when I put the whole thing back in the tank.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I got up early this morning with a lot to get accomplished today. First thing I did was install the new race alternator and delete the power steering. Deleting all that stuff did not take too long.. The area where you put the new cross over line wasn't too hard to get to. It took a little longer then I expected.














































After this was done, I installed my new engine and transmission mounts from Vibra Technic. Installation was very smooth and it did not take a lot of time at all.

Transmission Mount










Engine Mount



















I am taking a break right now and wanted to post these updates. I am going back out to install the front suspension and drive axles.


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## EAA Engineering (Nov 29, 2012)

Looks good, sorry you found it tedious, but it's worth it! :thumbup:

We should have MK4 stock mounts in our inventory by this summer.


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

EAA Engineering said:


> Looks good, sorry you found it tedious, but it's worth it! :thumbup:
> 
> We should have MK4 stock mounts in our inventory by this summer.


curious to see how you like these vs some VFs or similar. I just got 034 solid dogbone and its pretty nice.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

The rest of the day did not pan out as well as the morning. I got 1 coilover installed!! The dang spindle was a pain in the butt and then I forgot to put the bearing in with the strut mount. Either way tomorrow is another day.










The DSS 800hp axle next to my raxle that it will be replacing.


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

*FV-QR*

It was good meeting you today.
Apparently we brought the snow to Augusta with us.
And the Army got defeated by the 2 inches of snow.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

My progress was put to a sudden halt yesterday....55 degrees the day before and then snow. It froze overnight and in 3 more days it is supposed to be in the 60's. Soooo the axles and the rest of the suspension will have to wait.


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## craigalangibson (Dec 27, 2003)

What was wrong with the Raxles?

I'm asking because I have them installed.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Nothing was wrong with them. I wanted something that could handle a little more power for down the road.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

craigalangibson said:


> What was wrong with the Raxles?
> 
> I'm asking because I have them installed.


Raxles are a solid product. Only seen a few ever break on serious drag cars with slicks the whole 9 yards. Plus the owner, Marty, is a true gear head.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I agree. I had them on for about 5 years.


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## craigalangibson (Dec 27, 2003)

Yes, Marty is a good guy and stands by his product. I love how if I ever have a problem with the axles, all I have to do is pay for shipping to him and they come back good as new and without having to prove anything.

Plus the box has your name on it which is a nice personal touch.


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## AmIdYfReAk (Nov 8, 2006)

100mm flanged axles? 0.o


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

It is whatever the 800 hp axles come with from their web page. I asked about snubs but they said they did not have any.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am going to be staying with Maestro for tuning. I was lucky enough to find a dyno very close to me. Literally about 12 minutes down the road. ThreeFace Racing. They specialize in rotary engines, but agreed to let me tune my car there extensively. In about 3 weeks be on the look out for preliminary dyno's and test logs.


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## Mike Pauciullo (Jan 8, 2009)

Raxles aren't made out to be as strong as Marty claims. I asked him if any ever broke, he said no. I asked him about the few i have witnessed broke and the story changed. After mine broke I went with DSS, never had a issue since.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I will actually be selling my raxles as soon as they come off, then I can get my new wheels.


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## 4ceFed4 (Apr 3, 2002)

Thanks for posting up all the pics of the EAA race alternator install. I haven't gotten around to installing mine yet and I've been curious to see what it looks like in position.


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## Mike Pauciullo (Jan 8, 2009)

what happens when the alternator takes a crap? can you go to the store and purchase it? can you only buy it from eaa


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am actually not sure. Issam partnered up with EAA to make this kit.


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

The Alternator used is a Denso 8162 unit just modified for 3 wire (as most are 1 wire for racing applications). I have heard of Pep boys/Autozone/whoever carrying it but never looked to confirm. But yes just like the 650+ ABF alternator kits we sold , if an issues arises then a simple email will resolve it.:beer:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Wiring it up was a breeze. The green wire is a positive wire that more less turns it on to charge the battery. I have it going to my +distribution block so when I turn on my main power switch it is active. The other 2 wires I am not using and have been capped off. Then my main charging wire is wired up with a 125 amp fuse to the battery.


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## Mike Pauciullo (Jan 8, 2009)

INA said:


> The Alternator used is a Denso 8162 unit just modified for 3 wire (as most are 1 wire for racing applications). I have heard of Pep boys/Autozone/whoever carrying it but never looked to confirm. But yes just like the 650+ ABF alternator kits we sold , if an issues arises then a simple email will resolve it.:beer:


A simple email won't fix the issue at the track. I would stick with the OEM alternator just because most auto parts stores carry the alternators. You don't want to go to a event and have a nifty small alternator crap out during qualifying and the only thing you can do is write a email.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Well wiring the Excite/live wire to the + dist block was not the good thing to do. I blew a fuse I think. Car would not even crank over. I heard a loud click when I turned the key on and nothing. So Thursday I will be fixing this. Excite wire right to the battery...... And a new 5A fuse.  I learned my lesson today. Wiring does not like me. Haha


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

Mike Pauciullo said:


> A simple email won't fix the issue at the track. I would stick with the OEM alternator just because most auto parts stores carry the alternators. You don't want to go to a event and have a nifty small alternator crap out during qualifying and the only thing you can do is write a email.


Same could be said about coils , etc. The Alternator is an 8162 unit .... we just made a bracket for it to suite.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I love the look and fitment. Just not my wiring skills.


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## Mike Pauciullo (Jan 8, 2009)

You are also taking weight off of the car where you need the weight.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I think it is worth it. It also makes it a lot easier to work on the car in that area. It opens up everything and frees up a lot of cramped space. My engine mounts opened up a lot of free space too. Right now I am concentrating on my fudge up with the wiring. Gotta get her started tomorrow.


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## Mike Pauciullo (Jan 8, 2009)

Beat the Heat said:


> I think it is worth it. It also makes it a lot easier to work on the car in that area. It opens up everything and frees up a lot of cramped space. My engine mounts opened up a lot of free space too. Right now I am concentrating on my fudge up with the wiring. Gotta get her started tomorrow.


What space is needed in that area ? Lol


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Makes it easier to get to the timing belt. Makes it easier to get the intake manifold off. I will have more space for my direct port injection lines and everything underneath. I re did a vacuum line that was all jacked up and made it nice and neat now. The OEM alternator was pushing up on one of my vacuum lines on the SEM. Easier access to the sensors on the front of the engine.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I took a few minutes this morning to run outside and check fuses. No fuses are blown, so Spartiati told me that it might be a stuck solenoid that or the starter is bad. It has been very rainy the past few days, so maybe that has something to do with it. Hopefully tomorrow it will crank over, if not I may be looking at a new starter.


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## 4ceFed4 (Apr 3, 2002)

Mike Pauciullo said:


> You are also taking weight off of the car where you need the weight.


Can you explain this? I haven't found a single part of a mk4 that needed weight :laugh:



Mike Pauciullo said:


> What space is needed in that area ? Lol


With one of the aftermarket intake manis on the market the only way to run a 75-80mm throttle body in passenger side configuration is relocating the alternator or cutting a hole in the hood. I chose the alternator relocate option for this reason as well. 

If you race competitively and are worried about certain parts failing and cutting your weekend short, my solution has always been to travel with spares. Chances are if your pockets are deep enough to race they're deep enough to afford an extra alternator or what have you.


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## Mike Pauciullo (Jan 8, 2009)

We couldn't get the car to go faster then a 10.40 until we added a 80ibs weight bar behind the rad support. The car was instantly easier to drive (basically can drive the car with one hand) and hooks a lot better. After the weight bar it went a 10.17 and with new slicks we went 9.65. Add the weight bar, corner balancing, adjusting the ride height, and a better prep track we went [email protected] If you want to find weight to take out look in the rear of the car.


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## Stevebilt (Jul 30, 2010)

As Mike said, I wouldn't focus on removing weight from the car so much. After corner balancing you're going to want at least a 70/30 split with the car. If you bought the alternator kit for the simple purpose of fitting things with your application thats one thing, but buying it for the weight savings is counter productive. The availability of the new style alternator is also super important, hell last year at WF the stock unit crapped out and we had to run into the swap meet to buy a used one to throw in between rounds. Are you going to be able to do that with the new one? Doubtful. To me it just seems like another one of those ideas from manufacturers that serve no purpose other then being different. That's like if I made a super special, top secret, scene point adapter plate to put a Porsche valve cover on a 1.8T, serves no purpose but i bet 1000 people would want it to be "cool".

Focus more on pulling weight from the front tires back, once you start making big power you will need to add weight up front regardless.


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Mike Pauciullo said:


> We couldn't get the car to go faster then a 10.40 until we added a 80ibs weight bar behind the rad support. The car was instantly easier to drive (basically can drive the car with one hand) and hooks a lot better. After the weight bar it went a 10.17 and with new slicks we went 9.65. Add the weight bar, corner balancing, adjusting the ride height, and a better prep track we went [email protected] If you want to find weight to take out look in the rear of the car.


listen to the experts children :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Stevebilt said:


> As Mike said, I wouldn't focus on removing weight from the car so much. After corner balancing you're going to want at least a 70/30 split with the car. If you bought the alternator kit for the simple purpose of fitting things with your application thats one thing, but buying it for the weight savings is counter productive. The availability of the new style alternator is also super important, hell last year at WF the stock unit crapped out and we had to run into the swap meet to buy a used one to throw in between rounds. Are you going to be able to do that with the new one? Doubtful. To me it just seems like another one of those ideas from manufacturers that serve no purpose other then being different. That's like if I made a super special, top secret, scene point adapter plate to put a Porsche valve cover on a 1.8T, serves no purpose but i bet 1000 people would want it to be "cool".
> 
> Focus more on pulling weight from the front tires back, once you start making big power you will need to add weight up front regardless.


:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:eace::wave:


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## EAA Engineering (Nov 29, 2012)

Stevebilt said:


> To me it just seems like another one of those ideas from manufacturers that serve no purpose other then being different. That's like if I made a super special, top secret, scene point adapter plate to put a Porsche valve cover on a 1.8T, serves no purpose but i bet 1000 people would want it to be "cool".


Drag racing high powered FWD cars comes with a whole set of unique requirements for weight distribution, agreed.

But what you're implying with this blanket statement is that a lightweight alternator kit that eliminates 20#'s from the car doesn't have any use at all in the racing field (i.e. road racing, autocross, etc.) or high performance street car, which is not true. Everyone here knows reducing mass is as good as, if not better (in the case of cars that turn where vehicle dynamics improve at the same time) adding horsepower, all other things being equal.


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## Stevebilt (Jul 30, 2010)

EAA Engineering said:


> Drag racing high powered FWD cars comes with a whole set of unique requirements for weight distribution, agreed.
> 
> But what you're implying with this blanket statement is that a lightweight alternator kit that eliminates 20#'s from the car doesn't have any use at all in the racing field (i.e. road racing, autocross, etc.) or high performance street car, which is not true. Everyone here knows reducing mass is as good as, if not better (in the case of cars that turn where vehicle dynamics improve at the same time) adding horsepower, all other things being equal.


I understand the importance of weight reduction in other forms of Motorsport. But for drag racing (which his car is being built for), the weight savings up front doesn't benefit him any. If he was building the car for SCCA or another equivalent event I'd agree with the application.


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## lorge1989 (Sep 3, 2008)

Stevebilt said:


> I understand the importance of weight reduction in other forms of Motorsport. But for drag racing (which his car is being built for), the weight savings up front doesn't benefit him any. If he was building the car for SCCA or another equivalent event I'd agree with the application.


You are also assuming that regardless what setup he is running (ie. motor, tire etc) weight taken out of the front of the car is a bad thing. So far this car is running slower times in the 1/8th than you guys have done in the quarter. Its a completely different animal.

If I had to guess I would say there comes a power level where yes you might benifit from more weight in the front for traction. But before that power level one will benifit from a higher power to weight ratio. Its all a balancing act. To make a blanket statement like Mike did seems a bit extreme and for his case I could see any weight reduction as beneficial.


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## 4ceFed4 (Apr 3, 2002)

lorge1989 said:


> If I had to guess I would say there comes a power level where yes you might benifit from more weight in the front for traction. But before that power level one will benifit from a higher power to weight ratio. Its all a balancing act. To make a blanket statement like Mike did seems a bit extreme and for his case I could see any weight reduction as beneficial.


This was exactly what I was getting at. Beat the Heat is nowhere near the point where he needs to start adding weight for traction purposes. I'm impressed you had your car corner balanced, Mike. I had no idea that came into play with drag cars, but I guess I can see some benefit when you're dealing with a FWD car with unequal length drive shafts as far as getting the car to take off straight.

For SFWD can you add any aero in the front? Obviously this won't come into play from a dead stop, but if you're losing traction at speed you could easily add more than 80 pounds downward force in the front without the actual weight penalty.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Turns out my wiring skills do not suck. The starter solenoid was stuck. WHEW!!!!


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

4ceFed4 said:


> This was exactly what I was getting at. Beat the Heat is nowhere near the point where he needs to start adding weight for traction purposes. I'm impressed you had your car corner balanced, Mike. I had no idea that came into play with drag cars, but I guess I can see some benefit when you're dealing with a FWD car with unequal length drive shafts as far as getting the car to take off straight.
> 
> For SFWD can you add any aero in the front? Obviously this won't come into play from a dead stop, but if you're losing traction at speed you could easily add more than 80 pounds downward force in the front without the actual weight penalty.


BTW, IMO adding weight to the front end to gain traction is a poor way of approaching the problem regardless of the level of the drag car. Weight shifts, even if all of it was sitting above the front contact patch, things will change dynamically. The proper way way of dealing with problems like that would be to dial the suspension correctly to reduce the degree of squat present, and slow down the rate of weight transfer (weight will always shift, but the rate of that shift can be tuned). 

- Appropriate spring rates for the weight of the car (mostly in the rear for a pure drag car to control the amount of squatting)

- Adequate front damper rebound valving (in the 1-3 in/sec of the curve which will cover the drag start, and then the mid-to-high speed velocity region can have some digression to promote control over surface imperfections the rest of the way)

- Adequate rear damper compression (same 1-3 in/sec is mostly important because it is the range of chassis lean and will control all the dynamic motion of a drag start)

The big drag guys in this community seems to skip real suspension tuning and mostly focus on power (I was baffled to see the minimal level suspension tuning in Ed's car too, and Aaron seems to have been finally getting to it lately from the discussions I've had with him on the K forum). I know for a fact, hanging around the Bushur racing and AMS evos, that other full-purpose drag monsters go all out with their suspension parts, testing, and tuning (think full custom Motons, Penske, JRZ's etc.). All I know is that adding weight (front or rear), unless to meet minimum weight, is a band-aid solution that can be better addressed... but again I have no real experience with drag racing at that level. 

Aero is another area that I see this community trailing in, but that's another topic in itself :beer:


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## 4ceFed4 (Apr 3, 2002)

Beat the Heat said:


> Turns out my wiring skills do not suck. The starter solenoid was stuck. WHEW!!!!


So what was the final schematic for wiring up the alternator?


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## Mike Pauciullo (Jan 8, 2009)

lorge1989 said:


> You are also assuming that regardless what setup he is running (ie. motor, tire etc) weight taken out of the front of the car is a bad thing. So far this car is running slower times in the 1/8th than you guys have done in the quarter. Its a completely different animal.
> 
> If I had to guess I would say there comes a power level where yes you might benifit from more weight in the front for traction. But before that power level one will benifit from a higher power to weight ratio. Its all a balancing act. To make a blanket statement like Mike did seems a bit extreme and for his case I could see any weight reduction as beneficial.


This car is a drag car so why would he start taking weight out in the wrong spot?? 



4ceFed4 said:


> This was exactly what I was getting at. Beat the Heat is nowhere near the point where he needs to start adding weight for traction purposes. I'm impressed you had your car corner balanced, Mike. I had no idea that came into play with drag cars, but I guess I can see some benefit when you're dealing with a FWD car with unequal length drive shafts as far as getting the car to take off straight.
> 
> For SFWD can you add any aero in the front? Obviously this won't come into play from a dead stop, but if you're losing traction at speed you could easily add more than 80 pounds downward force in the front without the actual weight penalty.


My car takes off straight and drives perfect down the track. I don't even use two hands anymore. I am not going to make a science project out of this, it is kind of simple...
1. make power
2. put the power down.
done. 


Marcus_Aurelius said:


> BTW, IMO adding weight to the front end to gain traction is a poor way of approaching the problem regardless of the level of the drag car. Weight shifts, even if all of it was sitting above the front contact patch, things will change dynamically. The proper way way of dealing with problems like that would be to dial the suspension correctly to reduce the degree of squat present, and slow down the rate of weight transfer (weight will always shift, but the rate of that shift can be tuned).
> 
> - Appropriate spring rates for the weight of the car (mostly in the rear for a pure drag car to control the amount of squatting)
> 
> ...


Come and drive my car with out the weight bar and you will see how my weight bar is a bandaid.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

My wiring was correct. The green wire you can put to the battery or put on a switch like I did. The other 2 wires I am not using.


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## Stevebilt (Jul 30, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> BTW, IMO adding weight to the front end to gain traction is a poor way of approaching the problem regardless of the level of the drag car. Weight shifts, even if all of it was sitting above the front contact patch, things will change dynamically. The proper way way of dealing with problems like that would be to dial the suspension correctly to reduce the degree of squat present, and slow down the rate of weight transfer (weight will always shift, but the rate of that shift can be tuned).
> 
> - Appropriate spring rates for the weight of the car (mostly in the rear for a pure drag car to control the amount of squatting)
> 
> ...


While there are many factors to making the car hook good, it's purely trial and error. Not everything can be solved with a mathematic equation. Numbers on paper don't mean anything until it's tested in real life situations. Especially when racing at different tracks where conditions are all different. One of the VWs biggest handicaps in the class is the fact that out wheelbase is several inches shorter then the Hondas, sure a rear beam can be made (which is in the plans) but there are also restrictions on length/location. Sure, we would love to be able to sink ungodly amounts of hours and money into the car to get it dialed in perfectly but at the end of the day mike and I are just 2 guys working out of a garage in our spare time since we both have full time jobs. The weight bar is the best all around solution as of yet.

Hey, mike and I must be doing something right. Next MK4 is almost .5sec slower then us.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Mike Pauciullo said:


> Come and drive my car with out the weight bar and you will see how my weight bar is a bandaid.





Stevebilt said:


> Hey, mike and I must be doing something right. Next MK4 is almost .5sec slower then us.


Nobody is knocking down your accomplishments and everyone knows that the car is super fast. However, when you approach things the way you guys are, you only put a lid on what's achievable. If two guys in a garage with limited budget can get to where you guys are, think about where you could go if things like simple suspension tuning wasn't viewed as expensive, impractical, and theoretical without real life value. Don't see what was said as pure criticism, I know when people propose potential ways to improve my race car, it's always considered and put on the drawing board. As a local, I wouldn't mind helping in a suspension tuning project (it's not expensive or a science project at all with the right tools and knowledge). The minute you start considering improvements inconvenient, the minute you start limiting how fast you could go IMO. :beer:


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

Our Top Fuel dragsters always had lead ballast added, and they were very well engineered. Drag racing follows a different set of rules.. 

Just sayin


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

[email protected] Performance said:


> Our Top Fuel dragsters always had lead ballast added, and they were very well engineered. Drag racing follows a different set of rules..
> 
> Just sayin


Jeff, I'm not going to begin pretending that I know too much about drag cars in general, but top fuel? These aren't suspended as far I know (confirmed by simple internet search). Obviously, a non-suspended car would have to resort to balast to balance the dynamics of a non-suspended chassis. We're talking modified production cars here, still with factory type suspension and I bet unknown spring and valving rate in Mike's car. 

Here is good link on drag-specific suspension tuning that confirms 99% of what I thought would work just by envisioning a drag run dynamics. As road racers say "hang out with the drag racers if you want to make power, and the autocrossers if you want to dial suspension", this is very true and as I say I'll help if Mike is interested in dialing is suspension properly. 

https://www.cachassisworks.com/Attachments/Instructions/899-031-226_drag.pdf


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

Beat the Heat said:


> My wiring was correct. The green wire you can put to the battery or put on a switch like I did. The other 2 wires I am not using.


:thumbup:


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Jeff, I'm not going to begin pretending that I know too much about drag cars in general, but top fuel? These aren't suspended as far I know (confirmed by simple internet search). Obviously, a non-suspended car would have to resort to balast to balance the dynamics of a non-suspended chassis. We're talking modified production cars here, still with factory type suspension and I bet unknown spring and valving rate in Mike's car.
> 
> Here is good link on drag-specific suspension tuning that confirms 99% of what I thought would work just by envisioning a drag run dynamics. As road racers say "hang out with the drag racers if you want to make power, and the autocrossers if you want to dial suspension", this is very true and as I say I'll help if Mike is interested in dialing is suspension properly.
> 
> https://www.cachassisworks.com/Attachments/Instructions/899-031-226_drag.pdf


Next time you're at the drag strip; go take a good look at the cars fielded by the multimillion dollar teams. They all have ballast added SOMEWHERE.. Js


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Not sure if I will get anything done this week. Sinus's are acting up. My goal is to get my remaining suspension installed and my other axle. Then I will start the tuning process again. I want to finish my template for my gauges too.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

We had an awesome time in Gatlinburg talking to kids about illegal street racing and distracted driving. Over 2000 youth came to the Boy Scout event. This week is pretty much a bust to work on the car. Bad weather for the next couple days. Ice and Snow. This morning my department came and picked me up for work. I was not going to risk getting into an accident.


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## apollosfury (Oct 14, 2005)

When I was in grad school at SCAD my architecture thesis project was creating a facility that would bring different cultural groups together by incorporating a facility that had both a drag track and several other more commonly used elements (restaurants, theaters, etc). I used the national 'beat the heat' program and specifically the 'race legal' program in San Diego as a form of precedent. Seeing this program in place in Gwinnett county just validates that these issues many of the professors dismissed as non existent are alive and well and closer to home than they think.

Sorry for the long-windedness of that post, it's just nice to see these programs in place and doing well. great job on the build! :thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

A lot of people do not think that it is an issue, unless you are a enthusiast. Many people are naive to the fact that street racing is an issue. To be honest it is not just street racing. You have people who drift around corners and then almost kill someone when they slide out. It happened at SOWO last year, from what I have heard. Someone in a Nissan Z. Or someone who wants to see how fast their car can go and loses control sideswiping another car. If you want to drift, drag race or see how fast your car can go, take it to the track. It is not like there is a lack of facilities in the Atlanta area or many other areas of the US.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I have awesome news. Next Tuesday my car is going to the dyno!!! ThreeFace Racing in Oxford, Georgia invited us out to tune the drag Jetta. I will finally have a base dyno and hopefully some updated ones from throughout the day.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

After some investigating I figured out I had a small fuel leak. I found where it is coming from. Apparantly where the fuel pump threads onto my surge tank it is leaking there. For safety I am going to be removing the surge tank when I go to the dyno and figure out why it is leaking. I think all I may need to do is add some teflon tape to seal it. I will just run one of the pumps inline.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I finally got out to the dyno yesterday. Check it out!!










Had a real good time. Got a bunch of runs in, but my logger kept giving me errors, so I only got 2 sets of logs. Things are looking good from a base stand point. 270 whp with a lot more to free up. 

I will have some stuff to post up later today, such as video.


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

I like string cheese


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Hopefully this video feed with link up on here. Both video's are from the same run. This is the run where I hit the 270 whp mark. Like I stated before, there is still much to change with the tune and a lot more power to free up.  If anything it will load the face book page. 


https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=272128289614612

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=272127432948031


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

Pics of HP/TQ graph?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I have to get them scanned. Their torque/rpm meter thing was broke, so I was only able to measure whp. They new one had not come in by the time I left.


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

*FV-QR*

Less chit chat and more pics.







ps:SELL ME YOUR WHEELS!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Haha!! I have to get my drag wheels first!! More Pics Enjoy. Courtesy of BoostedAtlanta.com


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## R32Smoker (Oct 21, 2010)

Very cool!

I'm looking forward to checking out the car at SOWO and hopefully seeing some runs at the Atlanta Dragway this year :thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

We will be at the drag way on the 22 of March for the first test n tune day. It is a Saturday and should be a real fun day. Hoping to have all the kinks worked out by then and well over 300 whp.


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

*FV-QR*

Me likey


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I just got a few new parts in that I will be posting pics up of soon. I also got a pair of slicks off of Mike P that I will be able to use for a little while once I get the proper rims for them. Should get plenty of traction with them too.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Check out these meats!! Thanks Mike!!


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## speedkillz (Jan 26, 2005)

Beat the Heat said:


> Check out these meats!! Thanks Mike!!


Those will be good for breaking some **** for sure... :laugh:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

There will not be any breaking over here. Car is built to run now. New tougher axles and tougher engine mounts. Going with smaller and A LOT lighter wheels. Should be ready to order the wheels in a week or so followed by the rest of the tires soon after. I will not have them for the first race, but should be on by the end of April. My car is going into the shop Monday to get a new intake cam installed to hopefully fix my timing issues and then back to the dyno the following week. Gunther VW in Buford was awesome enough to sponsor my car by supplying all my installation needs.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Beat the Heat said:


> There will not be any breaking over here.


:laugh: Famous last words from someone who hasn't raced much before.


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

20v master said:


> :laugh: Famous last words from someone who hasn't raced much before.


This :laugh:


*Text for orders and customer support 24/7 908-259-4860*


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

Rich ,
don't worry about the comments. Keep doing what you are doing as you are making alot of waves in the industry. You knew from the start this was going to be a learning curve but I am proud of what you have accomplished over the last 2 years. You could have chosen to sit on your butt and do nothing but soak in the negativity or go out there and try something for the good of the community.
:thumbup:


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

INA said:


> Rich ,
> don't worry about the comments. Keep doing what you are doing as you are making alot of waves in the industry. You knew from the start this was going to be a learning curve but I am proud of what you have accomplished over the last 2 years. You could have chosen to sit on your butt and do nothing but soak in the negativity or go out there and try something for the good of the community.
> :thumbup:


I don't see any negativity Issam; I see guys being realistic, and telling him that he's going to break parts whilst racing. :thumbup:


*Text for orders and customer support 24/7 908-259-4860*


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I know eventually something is bound to break, especially when the power output goes up. I am just hoping it is later rather then sooner. 

Thanks for the support Issam!! As always I cannot thank you and all of the other companies that have supported Beat the Heat enough!! Your support is able to bring our program to a new level! 

First Front Wheel Drive in Beat the Heat
First VW in Beat the Heat
First turbo in Beat the Heat
Second non-muslce car in Beat the Heat in the USA (There is a Porsche with an LS1)
Second Manual Transmission in Beat the Heat (The other is the Porsche)

Eveything I have done really gets the attention of the kids. They think it is just a regular jetta that looks like a cop car. Once I start to talk about the car, what I have done and open the hood it really gets their attention and 99% of the time want to learn more about the program. I already have a few that are going to come out to the first race in a couple weeks that think they can beat my car. They just might. The local drag strip wants to incorporate our chapter into the street legal drags night too. So we might be having a Beat the Heat ET drag night over the summer along with their fast fridays.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Keep up the good work, it's a great cause... although you'll be breaking stuffs more than you hope.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I do not want to hear the word "break" anymore.  haha!!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

My AEB race head will be done next week sometime. That means I should have before and after 1/4 mile runs and dyno runs when it is all said and done. I am going to make an attempt at installing the boost manager before the 22 of March too.


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## EAA Engineering (Nov 29, 2012)

Hi All:

We got Rich's go ahead to post here about the new 06A cast Al flanges we're now offering the MK4 /1.8T community. 

We've teamed up with INA to offer their aluminum flange replacements, along with an EAA Engineering AN race style hose setup, as a complete kit. Basically, we're now at the point in which we're looking for one or two 1.8T owners w/ stock water plumbing setups to volunteer their time and efforts in getting us the necessary info (measurements, pictures, etc.) to build a prototype hose kit, and validate fitment/function. 

If interested in donating your time & efforts, please send us an IM (I want to limit the posts re this topic in this thread). Participants will get a big chunk off the $ of the complete kit.

Thanks Rich!

(note: flanges in pics are in raw cast (still unfinished) form and will be offered in glass shot and polished)


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Now those are looking pretty!!! Cannot wait to get these bad boys on!!!


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## EAA Engineering (Nov 29, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> Now those are looking pretty!!! Cannot wait to get these bad boys on!!!


For sure! We'll get you set up with better hardware; the button heads are all we had at the time lol


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Got this in from C Tapp the other day!! I cannot wait to take a full day to deal with all of the wiring and be able to manage my boost, fuel pump and water meth. 










I also thought it was a good idea to get a steering wheel with more grip to it, so I called up Scott from Grip Royal and I now have something that my hands will not slip off of. I even got a cool pair of shades!!!










Here is the dyno from my first run on actuator pressure, 12 psi. Keep in mind that I have a cam sensor issue that is being fixed this week. I had a lot of timing pull across the board and it effected the advance a good bit. Not to shabby with the issues that I have.

This is for all the haters of folks that never post dyno results even if they are not very good.  haha


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I made my mind up with wheels. For the time being I have to look at them on budget mindset. So I am going to be running Bassett 13x10 with 5 inch back spacing. ($70 a wheel). In the rear I will be running Diamond Racing 15x4.5. ($75 a wheel) They are steel wheels, but still lighter then my current wheels with brakes. The fronts are 15-16 lbs per wheel. I should also have the car back Monday or Tuesday. I am sending the rotors yo FFE Racing to he redrillef


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Updates from Gunther VW today:

Suspension: Installed
Axles: Installed
Manual TB Tensioner: Installed
Wipers: Deleted
New intake cam: Installed
P0341: Still an issue

I cannot seem to get this code to go away and neither can the dealer. The wiring in the harness is good. They checked it with a multi-meter. The cams are timed perfectly. Reluctor wheel is fine. But the sensor is not sending anything to the ECU. I replaced the sensor with a new one not that long ago, but we are going to see if that sensor happened to be bad by replacing it again. They are also checking the ECU just to make sure. Hopefully by tomorrow it will be fixed. I really do not know what else it could be. Watch it be a coolant temperature sensor...haha!!!

I also got my Bassett 13x10 wheels in. As soon as I pick up the rotors, I am sending them to FFE to drill them out to 5x100 and hopefully in less then a month I will be able to run the slicks.


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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

> P0341: Still an issue
> 
> I cannot seem to get this code to go away and neither can the dealer. The wiring in the harness is good. They checked it with a multi-meter. The cams are timed perfectly. Reluctor wheel is fine. But the sensor is not sending anything to the ECU. I replaced the sensor with a new one not that long ago, but we are going to see if that sensor happened to be bad by replacing it again. They are also checking the ECU just to make sure.


The complete absence of data coming through in block 093 says there's an electrical fault. Now that your tech has tried multiple sensors and checked the wiring as well, I think the only remaining thing to try is a different ECU. Let me know if you need help with that.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

He was checking the ecu yesterday evening and replacing and cam sensor with an OEM one. I will see what I find out today and will let you know.


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## spartiati (May 19, 2008)

Is there continuity from the sensor pins to the ecu pins?


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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> The complete absence of data coming through in block 093 says there's an electrical fault.


…or I could just be talking out of my hat. You see, there's another circumstance where your camshaft adaptation values are nil: when the cam is so far out of whack that the ECU can't apply a value. I'd thought such a situation would result in a reading of some maximum value, such as "-25" or "25". Turns out that's not the case. So, your tech decided to try moving the cam one tooth on the chain, and TA-DAHH you're getting readings at the sensor. And they're exactly right: adaptation values are within the 5˚ spec you want to see. Here you go:











The only thing that puzzles me is why the cam won't "roll over" during the free-revving you see in this log. Ordinarily you'd see those values in "Camshaft adjustment" to be in the upper teens and low twenties. But maybe the ECU isn't seeing enough load to trigger the VVT solenoid. 

Bottom line is your error code is gone and you're running a nice IE Street intake now.

Cheers


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am just happy that it is gone and now I should be able to tune my car properly.  It made my day, week, month and year. haha

It is just weird that moving one tooth and its perfect. The even weirder issue is that I had the exact same problem with the prior cam. Weirdness aside, its time to RACE and do more logs!!!


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## spartiati (May 19, 2008)

Are you running an adjustable exhaust wheel? If so is it possible that the timing of the exhaust wheel is "off" so that the ecu was reading it as the intake cam being so far off? Regardless good find!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

No it is an oem awp wheel.


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## spartiati (May 19, 2008)

Scratch that then....


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am going to stick with that maybe the cam should have been degreed instead of timed with the marks. That is the only conclusion that I can come up with.


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## jettagls03 (Jan 28, 2012)

Nice build. I'm running the same setup F23 turbo Kit.. Unitronics and alll the other goodies. I'm waiting for the weather to clear up In VT so i can unleash the beast. Hopefully you will be at Dub On Defrost. love to see yours.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

There are 3 big events I am trying to go to outside of GA. SOWO (I will be there), NOPI Bristol and Waterfest. Then there is the Beat the Heat World Finals in Texas. Don't have the funds for anything else, unfortunately. We have a lot of local events that we do, that take up most of our time. I'm actually missing our biggest event, Southern Nationals, while I'm at SOWO.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Well I went and picked up the car today from Gunther VW. What can I say about how it ran. hmmmmmm

LIKE A DIFFERENT CAR!!!!

I took it for a spin in their parking lot with all of the tech's looking around. I hit first and romped on it. It spun the tires instantly. I went through second and hit third. I romped on it again and it spun tires with ease. Even with the drag radials, it has never done this before. The improvement is drastic and wonderful!!!! My error code is gone, but a new one squeezed in on me.

I also had my AWE Tuning electric boost gauge installed while it was there. That thing is nice!!!

P0600: Communication Terminal Error

It is not affecting the power or anything. For some reason the car is thinking I have an automatic. I am going to reflash it Saturday to activate my 2step and hopefully it will go away.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I have good news and I have bad news. The good news is that the P0600 code went away and never came back and I went racing this past weekend with the rest of my Beat the Heat team. So here is a picture of my good pass and a couple video's including my bad pass where I blew off a boost hose from my diverter valve. We had an awesome day even though my starter went bad on me. Got one good pass in.



















My pass is the one on the left.










Onto the video!! 











I also got these bad boys in the other day to compliment my slicks.


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## 4ceFed4 (Apr 3, 2002)

Beat the Heat said:


> I have good news and I have bad news. The good news is that the P0600 code went away and never came back and I went racing this past weekend with the rest of my Beat the Heat team. So here is a picture of my good pass and a couple video's including my bad pass where I blew off a boost hose from my diverter valve. We had an awesome day even though my starter went bad on me. Got one good pass in.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Good to see that you're getting out there. ETs should really start dropping once you get some tires that can put the power down. Where are your shift points at the track?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I was shifting at about 7000 rpm's. I was losing traction over 6000 rpm's in second and third. Car was still pulling hard at that rpm range though, so once I get the slicks on I may have to increase my shift rpm's.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Here is one more. The quality is not the best, but it is the only one I have from line when I ran our Impala.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Now it is time to figure out my new issue that has risen. After my first pass my car would not start. At first it just clicked. I thought maybe the solenoid was stuck. I got a hammer and tapped it a few times. I tried to jump it and sometimes it would click and other times it would not go anything. After some thought I am thinking that possibly my battery has a bad cell. 

Last night I trickle charged my yellow top battery and today after work I am going to change battery's to see if that starter will engage and turn over. If it does not, it tells me that starter is bad and I have to try to find a new one, QUICK. Hopefully is it just the battery from sitting around and only being started for racing with a lot of jumping. I know the battery will not hold a charge for longer then like 30 minutes as of late. I may be getting a Braille Lithium Ion battery soon along with a battery tender. I think that was my demise. Not having it on a battery tender in between events and over the winter time.


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## dblock (Feb 14, 2006)

Shouldn't you be trapping a much higher trap speed and your Et should be into the 13's with all that's done to your car? I'd say like a [email protected] with that f23 tuned right. Am I wrong?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Mike Pauciullo (Jan 8, 2009)

dblock said:


> Shouldn't you be trapping a much higher trap speed and your Et should be into the 13's with all that's done to your car? I'd say like a [email protected] with that f23 tuned right. Am I wrong?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


He needs seat time, slicks, and weight reduction.


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## dblock (Feb 14, 2006)

I understand, but that trap speed should be up regardless? I trapped that with a uni stage 2 file on my old 20th with aristos and street tires. That was before any experience on a drag strip in 2008. The f23 should be substantially more powerful than a ko3s. But I understand, I'm no avid racer, but slicks and maybe some tuning tweaks and reduction will be substancial to them track times to come :thumb:


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Mike Pauciullo (Jan 8, 2009)

dblock said:


> I understand, but that trap speed should be up regardless? I trapped that with a uni stage 2 file on my old 20th with aristos and street tires. That was before any experience on a drag strip in 2008. The f23 should be substantially more powerful than a ko3s. But I understand, I'm no avid racer, but slicks and maybe some tuning tweaks and reduction will be substancial to them track times to come :thumb:
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


He will get the traps higher and the ET lower just give him time. I went from [email protected] to a [email protected] just from getting comfortable in the car. Seat time is key.
People don't realize it but you should have a real good idea how the car will react on the top end and listen for the shift points.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I need more seat time and I have to find my launch sweet spot and shifting sweet spot. We just fixed a code that was regarding timing and didn't know I would lose traction so much off the line thru 3rd gear. My last time at the track I had a similar ET, but nit the power I have now. It hooked off the line and bogged down. Same tune but no code, I spun like crazy. I launched at the same rpm too. It is going to be a learning curve in the next few weeks.


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## Mike Pauciullo (Jan 8, 2009)

hold it against the rev limiter don't let up off the loud peddle


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I have the 2step active. Set to 5800 rpm. Not sure what the rev limiter is set to. I think like 8k. I am not activating the no lift shift until I get the shifting down. I do not want to blow my turbo because I took too long to shift. Lol


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## Mike Pauciullo (Jan 8, 2009)

the turbo will be fine, you don't want to shift to early that will cause the car to bog down
listen to my car shifting from 1st to 2nd




listen to this one. you will hear the differences because this one bogged.


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## Mike Pauciullo (Jan 8, 2009)

oops listen to 2nd to 3rd.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I gotta find my sweet spots for shifting so bogging does not happen. First I have to figure out my sweet spot for launching so I am not slow off the line and have another 3 sec 60ft. lol


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

Me, I'd ride the clutch off the line and then the rest of the way never let off of the skinny pedal. 

Why? Because race car.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I cannot afford to do that. I would much rather drop it off the line and have to find the sweet spot for the launch.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I got the starter in, so this week I am going to get it installed. Thanks to a friend I will be able to start my car again. 

I am also getting necessary information to run the billett coolant flanges from INA/EAA Engineering. I am deleting my coolant ball, and having a custom 4x2x2 expansion tank made with 16An inlet/outlet with a filler cap, or something around that size to allow for expansion and restriction of the coolant. It is going to be inline with the main 16AN hose from the radiator to the flange on the driver side of the head. The AN line should support the tank without being mounted anywhere. I am going to block off the heater core coolant port on the flange and get a rubber gommet to cap off the end of the hard coolant line that runs around the block. This will easily delete the heater core. 

In the mean time, I will be installing my larger Grip Royal steering wheel so steering isn't as difficult without the power steering. I am going to be pre-planning my boost manager plus setup from Eurodyne in the next two weeks. Labeling all of the wiring, getting wire prepped to run in the engine bay and mock up mounting points for my wmi pump/resevior. I may use my coolant ball for water meth. It is already mounted there, I would just need to tapp it and put a fitting in the bottom for the water meth.

Other then that, I will be going back to the dyno in about 2 weeks, so long as I find another trailer to use. I can finally get down to tweaking my tune and getting the most out of it.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Beat the Heat said:


> I got the starter in, so this week I am going to get it installed. Thanks to a friend I will be able to start my car again.
> 
> I am also getting necessary information to run the billett coolant flanges from INA/EAA Engineering. I am deleting my coolant ball, and having a custom 4x2x2 expansion tank made with 16An inlet/outlet with a filler cap, or something around that size to allow for expansion and restriction of the coolant. It is going to be inline with the main 16AN hose from the radiator to the flange on the driver side of the head. The AN line should support the tank without being mounted anywhere. I am going to block off the heater core coolant port on the flange and get a rubber gommet to cap off the end of the hard coolant line that runs around the block. This will easily delete the heater core.
> 
> ...


Coolant ball may not be a good idea for water meth unless you want to refill it every day.


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Coolant ball may not be a good idea for water meth unless you want to refill it every day.


Drag car only & non DOT legal.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Brake Weight said:


> Drag car only & non DOT legal.


I would figure out how many runs you can get out of that little ball.


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

Depending on how hard he sprays, I'd guess maybe 4 passes give or take one pass. W/M is something you'd tune for and really don't wanna run dry on when racing. I'd check it every pass personally.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

It will not be progressive, since I'm drag racing. Eurodyne sent me a 5Gph nozzle, but USRT is going to help me setup direct port and pre-turbo injection later on. I do not mind if I have to refill it every pass.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am going to be gutting the interior soon. It will be easier when I have to rewire the emergency lights too. All panels will be removed. I'm trying to get to the track on Friday too, so I should have more time slips this weekend. I thought I would get back to the dyno, but termites had a different idea. Dang bugs wrecking havoc in my house.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I finally got the starter installed and fired her up yesterday. Turned over like a champ. I started to take off the OEM GLI steering wheel and forgot my proper bit at home to remove the steering wheel bolt. Will get that done tomorrow. I also got my VDO tachometer in. It has an integrated shift light to help me with my shifting once I get all of that down. I just have to figure out where the best place to get the signal from is for the rpm's.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I got a little done yesterday. I got my new Grip Royal steering wheel installed. It was a little tedious to get the plastic air bag/horn thing off behind the wheel, but I got it done in about 30 minutes.


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## spartiati (May 19, 2008)

Coming along nicely!!!!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I have to respray my front bumper tomorrow night. I forgot to attach it last time I came back from the track and it got windy. Needless to say it got scratched up. Thank god for plastic dip.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Well I got back out to the track last week and well, the starter solenoid in the new to me starter would not engage again. It turned over perfectly fine loading it on the trailer, but when we got to the track the gremlins struck again. We got back from the track and it engaged. I just cannot win with starters. haha I am now prepping for SOWO. I will be there with NGP Racing for the entire weekend and will be spending a little time at the QED Tuning mobile dyno getting some runs in and showing everyone what kind of power my F23 is putting out in its unrefined state. I will let everyone know when I will be at the dyno. Look forward to seeing a lot of you there!!!


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## 4ceFed4 (Apr 3, 2002)

Which flywheel do you have again? I wonder if the starters are having trouble engaging due to some defect in the ring gear.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am using a SPEC steel flywheel. It is not an engagement issue with the flywheel. It is a solenoid problem. I think due to my car sitting for so long in between events that the solenoid gets stuck. A little tapping on the solenoid usually gets it going.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am having a blast at SOWO!! I am getting to hang out with NGP Racing all weekend. I got to chill with the VMG crew and got on the QED Mobile Dyno. I was mildly surprised at the numbers, but was still hoping for more. I am waiting on the dyno plot to be emailed to me. Had a nice crowd watching me too. I also got to talk to a lot of awesome vw/audi/porsche enthusiasts. Looking forward to tomorrow!! One more day to go. Oh and by the way see my numbers below. 

295 whp
320 torque


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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

Beat the Heat said:


> see my numbers below.
> 
> 295 whp
> 320 torque


Here are your graphs, courtesy of Joel at QED Tuning:


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## TTazRS (Feb 1, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> Here are your graphs, courtesy of Joel at QED Tuning




Why the dip? Just curious


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

It I'd what I could afford.at the time.


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

TTazRS said:


> Why the dip? Just curious


Because we're still dialing it in.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Here is some video of the dyno runs.


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## zamergli (Apr 18, 2010)

this have to be a joke, you are running f23 and doing 16 almost 17s on 1/4 mile!!!!! **** and i thing my gli with stock k03s was slow running 14.50 and some 15s flat on woodburn oregon at pacific waterland lol


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

The power is there, but my launching and shifting is not yet. I will get there soon.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Beat the Heat said:


> The power is there, but my launching and shifting is not yet. I will get there soon.


TBH, the power numbers are off too, I'd expect a lot more from a car on a hybrid and all the supporting mods you've thrown at it (even with the mapping not fully dialed).


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

The graphs are bumpy and the peak numbers are off of a spike. I think it needs some refinement to show what it's really capable of producing. With all the sponsors he has and vendors providing parts, not as much time has been devoted to actual tuning it all, IMO. Also, each time it gets a 'tune up' some other vendor will step up and provide some other bolt on. So it has been constantly changing. Time, it needs some time.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

The water meth is not going in until everything is tuned and ready. The race head is the same deal. I will be waiting to tune it fully before it goes on as well. I have confidence in my tuner who has diligently been working on an updated tune for me when he is not busy. I think with my next file there will be significant changes in how the car runs.


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

I'd throw that w/m on ASAP. Mine dropped the IATs 25*C.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

That is where it gets difficult. I am going to be running Eurodyne's Boost Manager with direct port injectio and pre-turbo Injection. Its going to be a tedious installation. The boost manager will be regulating wmi, boost and my fuel pump.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am trying to get to the track this Friday. I am trying to get everything straightened out before June 28. It is one of our biggest races of the year at a 4th of July celebration at the track. I am waiting on an updated tune from my tuner from the logs I got from SOWO. It will be a night of testing different tire pressures, different launch rpm's and different shift points. My reaction times are at the .22 mark, so I have to work on launch into my 60' and my shifting.


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## Ken's Mom (Jan 23, 2007)

Beat the Heat said:


> I am trying to get to the track this Friday. I am trying to get everything straightened out before June 28. It is one of our biggest races of the year at a 4th of July celebration at the track. I am waiting on an updated tune from my tuner from the logs I got from SOWO. It will be a night of testing different tire pressures, different launch rpm's and different shift points. My reaction times are at the .22 mark, so I have to work on launch into my 60' and my shifting.


some friendly advice.

skip your obsession with reaction times. it only counts in a bracket race or heads up, it has NOTHING to do with your overall performance.

what you need to do is learn how to DRIVE FIRST, then worry about racing the tree later.

and make small changes, one at a time. you will NOT know what affects what when you make a slew of changes all at once and expect miracles and end up with peanut butter.

tire pressure? are you running real tires yet and not those horrible 19" BS (albeit free) shyte? if you are on a slick, hit it with 8-9 psi and check it right after a run, put it back down to 8 psi or so. after abut three passes this will stabilize and stay constant.

you are trying to do too much and too often. work on ONE THING AT A TIME!


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

Good advice. Personally, I'd do something like a RWD power brake on launch and basically power shift it after that. Clutch be damned. It's a consumable part in a way, like brakes. Especially since it's a drag car now and not streetable. Times and experience will come with more passes. Now if you're racing all day, then a hot, smoking clutch will be an issue.


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

My advice 

DON'T DRAG ! you have great car for road coarse. small turbo, short gears .. even.those big wheels would do fine at racetrack. 
It's.not cheap ! But it's a.blast ! 

But then again , if.your having trouble with.going in a straight line. Don't think you could shift,reel toe b lean track lines that easy


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

All we do is bracket racing at the track. I planned on working on each item at a time. We have something that might be coming up real soon, that I will need my car to be running good for. Thats why I need to start to work on each of them. I am still on the 19's (were not free ), but I have a set of 13x10" wheels and 24.5x9x13 slicks. I just need to get the rotors redrilled and install the mk3 calipers. My reaction times are not bad, I just need to work on what rpm to shift at and tire pressure. I was losing too much traction above 6500 rpm, but the slicks should fix that no issue once I get them on.


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Suspension, Lower tire pressure, bang the limiter like one of those Georgia peaches and BAM! 

I almost think if I make the boost more linear you'll do better, but your issue isn't overpowering it...


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## dblock (Feb 14, 2006)

Yeah if ur not worried about reaction times and just want to see the best ET and mph then you can sleep on the line as long as possible. You want as good as a 60' as possible to as that will cut down the rest of your times. Id say under a 2.0 is decent. There are people cutting 1.7's being fwd. Just need to get that bad boy off the line. Like other people said. Suspension and good light wheels and sticky tires and some good shifting. Car should be capable of a low 13 second pass with the whp and tq you have. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Mike Pauciullo (Jan 8, 2009)

put the 13's on stop playing around with them ugly 19's
Pre-load the clutch
if it spins leave in on the rev limiter for a bit
get k-sport front coil overs


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I need to pick up the mk3 brakes still and get the rotors drilled. Everything else is ready. I was talking to someone last night and to help with my launches, I am going to be getting a Magnus hydraulic clutch launch controller. I just need to sell some stuff to get it. I have 2 smaller lines made for the clutch lines to have it run in between. Looks pretty sweet.


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## lorge1989 (Sep 3, 2008)

Am I the only one who gets a kick out of this thread? All the time and money invested and he still has a hard time taking advice from people who have dragged a ton. Its not the car, its the driver. Simple as that. Get out there and get some seat time in and LISTEN to what others are telling you. The **** they say, is mostly learned through expierience!

:thumbup:


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## Mike Pauciullo (Jan 8, 2009)

lorge1989 said:


> Am I the only one who gets a kick out of this thread? All the time and money invested and he still has a hard time taking advice from people who have dragged a ton. Its not the car, its the driver. Simple as that. Get out there and get some seat time in and LISTEN to what others are telling you. The **** they say, is mostly learned through expierience!
> 
> :thumbup:


i totally agree. racing the car on the ugly 19 inch wheels doesn't help one bit and take weight out of the car. it took me 2 seasons to actually learn how to drive the car. seat time is key to everything and try not to change the car. get used to what you have.


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

lorge1989 said:


> Am I the only one who gets a kick out of this thread? All the time and money invested and he still has a hard time taking advice from people who have dragged a ton. Its not the car, its the driver. Simple as that. Get out there and get some seat time in and LISTEN to what others are telling you. The **** they say, is mostly learned through expierience!
> 
> :thumbup:


:thumbup::thumbup:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

lorge1989 said:


> Am I the only one who gets a kick out of this thread? All the time and money invested and he still has a hard time taking advice from people who have dragged a ton. Its not the car, its the driver.


It's the only reason I check this thread. :laugh:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I'm waiting for my new rotors to be drilled to put the slicks and 13s on. Other than that, nothing else is being changed. Trying to find time to go to the track. Been hard lately. I just got transferred to a different division at work. I take everyone's advice and use it to help me. Main thing right now as Mike stated is seat time and more seat time. Tomorrow I cannot go, because I will be talking to kids all evening at a local law enforcement event with the car.


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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

Beat the Heat said:


> Tomorrow I cannot go, because I will be talking to kids all evening at a local law enforcement event with the car.


Exactly the point. Way to be, Rich.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Luck has not been in my favor the past couple weeks. I had to postpone going to the track again, due to weather and other various reasons. It might actually be getting a lot harder soon too. I am hopeful that things will turn around soon.


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## ant_718 (Mar 15, 2014)

I know you're in law enforcement and this is frowned upon, but maybe sneaking and taking it to a back road late at night that's not very populated to get some seat time would be a good idea lol


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## 4ceFed4 (Apr 3, 2002)

ant_718 said:


> I know you're in law enforcement and this is frowned upon, but maybe sneaking and taking it to a back road late at night that's not very populated to get some seat time would be a good idea lol


Call me a skeptic, but for some reason I don't see this happening 

Something to do with the whole point of the program he is championing...


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Yea, that would be frowned upon and illegal. My car law enforcement emblems and working emergency lights. I could get into a LOT of trouble. But I have a plan to get a bunch of runs in before NOPI in September. Last year was embarrassing for me. lol I will not let that happen this year.


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Beat the Heat said:


> IPYea, that would be frowned upon and illegal. My car law enforcement emblems and working emergency lights. I could get into a LOT of trouble. But I have a plan to get a bunch of runs in before NOPI in September. Last year was embarrassing for me. lol I will not let that happen this year.


Yea I was there :facepalm:

Get it


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Gwinnett PD are fine professional folks. I was pulled for motor vehicle admin insurance issues. I had valid insurance but my company did not notify the state. The officer commented I accelerated hard in my 220hp base model impreza but I stopped short of 60, posted 65. I explained the car is just loud and low powered. The officer saw my valid insurance and told me the computers were down and to see the state Monday. I think he gave me good guy slack because my ducks were in order.

Very professional regarding my second amendment rights in car as well. 

I wouldn't try it if I were a cop. Keep it at the track.

We have horrible accidents here because people think 65 is 80 and their stock cars can stop like NASCAR, and merge/pass.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Most of the GCPD people are cool, but there are always a few that are not. I have absolutely no plans to drive it on the street for testing. I do have plans to install a staging brake when I get the new brakes on. Do it all in one shot and bleed the lines once.


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

Have you considered hauling it somewhere besides an established track with a tree. You may be able to find a company with a lot long enough run it. Industrial district, regional airport at night, new build subdivision not occupied, etc. Somewhere to practice launches and a few shifts at least. May be able to pick up another 'sponsor' that way. If not monetary, at least they could help with a place to practice. For the cause and all.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I have plenty of space behind a secured fence line. I just got transferred a couple weeks ago so I had to halt things for about a month.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Update time!!!!

I have exactly 3 weeks until NOPI Nationals. We will be out there racing and talking to folks about the program. This is the second year that NOPI has invited us out to the race and hoping that these will be some of the best times for the car since I am hoping to get the race slicks on before it. This past week I got a few things in to help me become a better driver. I finally picked up my MK3 Jetta 10.1" brake setup. I am waiting on my re-drilled 10.1" rotors from FFE. I also got in a CNC staging brake from Poly Performance. Over the next 2 weeks I will be installing all of this. I need to pick up some brake like at the store with some fittings and get my game on to get this car ready for NOPI!!! I also have a few other things going on helping with promoting of the car and the program. I will have more information on that later. 

Mike P thanks for the tires!!!

So if any of you are in the Atlanta area Sept 19-21 come out to Atlanta Dragway and see us racing and root for us!! Or just stop by our booth and chat for a bit. I love meeting people from the forum at these events. Last year a met a few at NOPI and had a blast talking with them. Enjoy the pics below!!


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## dblock (Feb 14, 2006)

Who tunes your car? Do you use eurodyne?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I do use Eurodyne. The person who tunes my car is a good friend. I am not sure if he would want me yo disclose that on here. He can chime in.


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## dblock (Feb 14, 2006)

no problem just curious, thanks!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

When I install the bigger turbo, I will still be using it as well along with their boost manager setup.


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## dblock (Feb 14, 2006)

how much boost do you run to redline?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Last time I logged it was around 23psi. I will have more logs from NOPI though. The boost manager has a 6 bar map sensor. I am hoping to get it installed before the next turbo to see how much I can squeeze out of the F23.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Random stuff. Preparing for NOPI in 2 weeks!!!!


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Ever thought about converting her to an auto?


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

No **** lol. 4000rpm stall would make that thing launch like a jack rabbit


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Dave926 said:


> No **** lol. 4000rpm stall would make that thing launch like a jack rabbit


lol :facepalm:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I do not want to go auto. I think I have the tools necessary to help get my launching down.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Not just launching bud. But a good auto with the right stall will always launch faster and more consistent

No loss of boost between shifts.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Unfortunately, that won't happen unless you know someone who will give me then whole setup.


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## Mike Pauciullo (Jan 8, 2009)

why bother going to the track with out the slicks? 
you are getting no results.
also if you do go to the track for some reason with the ugly 19's don't go into the water box


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Because it is fun and I enjoy talking to the kids.


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## lorge1989 (Sep 3, 2008)

Wow.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Wow?


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## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

Beat the Heat said:


> Wow?


Yeah, I'm not sure I got that either.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

At the end of next weekend I will be posting up time slips and video clips and pictures. Friday night is test n tune, so hopefully I will get a bunch of runs in.


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## lorge1989 (Sep 3, 2008)

It was in response to your second vid up there. I understand you are more about spreading awareness than going fast. But honestly the easily influenced youth might pay more attention to you simply because you car runs a resonable time. 

I gotta think that a lot of the kids you are trying to reach out to, are just laughing at you and not taking you very seriously. If someone tried to talk to me about drag racing and I was a know it all teen, I doubt I would take what they were saying very seriously with a performance that is shown above. I know that sounds pretty crazy but thats how a lot of young people think.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am hoping to fix that issue next weekend, but I see your point and to an extent agree with you.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Had some rainy weather the other day while I was in the garage. I got the good ole dremel out and had at it with some sheet metal from Home Depot. I think it came out half decent. This is going to replace the middle air vents. I am going to have to find some tabs of some sort to keep it in place though.


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Saw you on track yesterday at nopi :thumbup:

You had 1 year to improve.
After watching you last year and this year AGAIN putting. Down 15.xx 

I WOULD REALLY consider getting an Auto tranny man :facepalm:
GL


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## dblock (Feb 14, 2006)

:-( and I was hoping to see some good track times.. For a car that dynoed 300/320 should atleast put down 14's I mean even not having a lot of experience. What was your trap speed?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## 4ceFed4 (Apr 3, 2002)

dblock said:


> :-( and I was hoping to see some good track times.. For a car that dynoed 300/320 should atleast put down 14's I mean even not having a lot of experience. What was your trap speed?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


With the amount of work into the car, he should be flirting with 12s, not 14s. I have a very similarly prepared mk4, and I was hitting mid 13s with a slipping clutch in the 95 degree heat of Waterfest 2013. I'm sure Rich will get it figured out soon.


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## dblock (Feb 14, 2006)

I understand that, but I am saying even being inexperienced, I would hope to have seen him hit in the 14's at minimum. With 300whp and over 300wtq, you are right. 12 second passes should happen. Atleast with some practice and a good track setup.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

The times disappointed me too. I had some help from a team that was next to me in the vendor area. Robert Tighe Racing. Just like many other people, they feel my wheel/brake/tire setup is what's causing this. I was .008 away from 14's this weekend. Every qualifying pass was within .2 of each other at 96-96.8 mph. I even went around the water pit and it spun more. I lowered my 2 step to 4800 rpm and that's when my runs became consistently low 15's. I lowered it another 300, but did not get to try it, due to not qualifying. By the next time I get out the slicks should be on.


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## spartiati (May 19, 2008)

With the Frankenturbo I would suggest maybe turning the 2 step off and launching around 4000 rpms... It spools really fast as it is and doesn't really need help off the line. With the torque onset so low it may help reduce wheelspin without the 2 step.

Without the 2 step and launching at 4000 I was able to run a 13.49 @ 110mph. That's with 17's and bald Goodyear eagle GSd3's and r32 brakes. My car is more setup for HPDE though.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

With the big wheel and tire setup I would focus more on trap speed than ET until you get some tires that will hook properly.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Rotors are being shipped Wednesday. Next week I should be able to get everything on.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I will have the redrilled rotors mid week. I should be able to get the mk3 brakes on by next week and then put the slicks on. I have about 5-6 more opportunities to get to the track before it closes for the year, so hopefully I can get better numbers down. My driving is consistant, but consistantly sucky. Just need to get better. Below are some pictures from NOPI. Enjoy. 

Photos courtesy of BoostedAtlanta.com, ImportAtalanta.com and MyActiveTrends.com





































New Parts going on soon.


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## ANT THE KNEE (Aug 25, 2000)

Any reason you still have all the carpet and what's underneath? You could shave off a few more pounds for sure with removing the sound deadening on the floorboards. I hear dry Ice and alcohol mixture works well. :thumbup: nice build:thumbup:. Launching on these turbo's can be tricky. How much to slip the clutch, what RPM to start at, should I bounce of the rev limiter? Then there's the track conditions & weather. Wheel time cures all, I know i'll need it myself:facepalm:.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

What kind of wheels are those?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Bassett 13x10's with 5" offset.

I haven't found any time to take it out the carpet or anything. I work 5 days, work a part time Jo on my one off day and family time on my other. Hard to find a lot of free time until after November.


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

Digging the Bassets. I almost got a set for my 4x4.


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## lorge1989 (Sep 3, 2008)

Its VERY good to hear you are getting more consistent with your runs, and you were trying different things (even if the times are slow). I agree that the 2 step is just inducing too much wheelspin. Try going to without it. I bet even with your current setup you could get pretty deep into the 14s with 5 or so more runs. Practice practice practice. Good to see you are moving forward. :thumbup:


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## Mike Pauciullo (Jan 8, 2009)

When you are spinning the tires just hold it against the rev limiter


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

That's the plan. Keep trying minor changes like this until I get the times where I want them before the end of the year.

Mike, I was holding the throttle down while it was spinning. It hooked eventually, just not very fast. I wish I had video, but no one got any that i know of.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

That car should be much faster, it needs seat time and tuning. Nasty slicks would do wonders with a stout gearbox.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I have the nasty slicks, but no money for a stout gear box.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

No lift shift? Got that? That an slicks should give you a good quicker car and save the gearbox


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I do have NLS with Maestro, but have not used it yet.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

You don't need any special gear box. Your 02M should be very sufficient for your power levels. It's not ideal for drag racing in the gearing ratio, but you don't need to worry about that at this point. You just need seat time, you need to put those slicks on, and dump the clutch a couple of times and you will figure out how slipping the clutch works. Saving milliseconds between shifts with NLS shouldn't be a priority either. This car should easily run 12's, just need the driver to get used to the car and how to launch as that is 90% of drag racing generally speaking.


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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

Thanks for involving us with your project, Rich. You're inspiring us all.


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## wolfyturbo (Dec 4, 2010)

cant wait till you throw those slicks on and drop 2 seconds instantly. its a nicely done build, even with some 16s or 17s and a nice drag radial you would net some seriously good numbers


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

I could never get into gear like I could with a nls. That was just my experience shifting an 02J up high. No lift shift and it just went in fast and effortless. Carried power between too. The flames and bang were worth a free bonus.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I was having a rough time getting it into gear at high rpm's. What delay should I enter for the NLS in Maestro? I do not gave any clue.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

200ms was where I ended up. I started around 800 I think where I worked down once
I was used to it. That's .2 and .8s respectively


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I will turn it on for my next race to see if it helps and start out with delay's like yours.

This has nothing to do with my build, but a lot is one of the other main things we teach at Beat the Heat. We spent the weekend with B.R.A.K.E.S with Doug Herbert. Those of you that are big into drag racing may know of him. Those who do not, he started a pro-active teen driving class. It is a 4 hour block of teaching kids about distracted driving and how to become a better driver in various situations. We helped out the program for the weekend and talked about distracted driving and some of the new laws in Georgia. The kids get to practice driving in a controlled environment with 4 driving sessions. If you live on the east coast or west coast and have a teen driver or are a teen driver, I would highly recommend the class. It is well worth the while and best of all it is free.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Getting ready for the last race of the year November 1. Everyone keep your fingers crossed that I can finally get into the 14's this year. 2 weeks after the race my car is going to KMS Enginve Development for the winter. They will be working on it for me and installing some new stuff and custom fabricating some parts as well to get me ready for 2015. Most of the stuff I am going to be keeping under wraps and surprising a lot of people in the spring.  There are no "major" motor changes bring made, but some power adders are being added. I am hoping to race in Import Showdown events next year if time permits as well as NHRA events.


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## dblock (Feb 14, 2006)

So what's the verdict?!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I tried different launch rpm's with and without the 2step. Still had lots of wheel spin and some hop. Ran the same times I did last race. 15.1, 15.08, etc. Verdict is that the big wheels and no sidewall tires are going bye bye. So if anyone wants a bbk let me know.  I'll be selling it. Car is going away for the winter next week to get a bunch of maintenance stuff done along with some other tid bits for 2015. Time to get ready for next year, starting out with a bang.


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## JDM-JTI (Sep 23, 2004)

jesus 15 second quarter miles? From a distance the car looks like it would be a beast. The new golf R with just a tune runs an a high 11 :laugh:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I know. It's all because of the wheel/tire/brake setup I originally chose. Wheel spin galore. Things are changing for 2015 though. Smaller brakes, drag slicks and small wheels. Staging brake and a few other things. Mahdavi Motorsports and KMS Engineering are lending me a hand with a few things over the winter.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Yesterday, I took the Jetta to KMS Engine Developemt for the winter. Monday we are going to start working on her. I am going to be posting as often as I can, but much of the stuff we are doing is going to be kept secret until it is done.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

First vague clue of what is coming for 2015......

Vi-Pec with Boost Manager.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

When these cars are setup wrong they wrong absurd times. I did a 13.1 or 13.2 can't remember at 107mph. 

I spun all through first second and most the way down the track lifting to try and get traction. That was with a 3071 on 21psi of wastegate pressure. I had avus wheels and I think 205/50/15 in some z rated tires. Coilovers. Stiff in the rear end to limit the squat. Quaife int he gearbox.


The car was not moving at all in the 1st 1/2 of the track then once it hit third and hooked up enough it started rolling.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

We are taking our time over the winter and building it right this time.


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## lorge1989 (Sep 3, 2008)

Beat the Heat said:


> We are taking our time over the winter and building it right this time.


It seems to me it is built right. Why go with ViPec? You have so much more work to do before a new EMS is going to show you any benifits.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Some of the stuff we are doing over the winter works better with stand alone.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Large port AEB head, supertech valves, custom CAT Cams and CAT Gold springs built by Al @PagParts.......Slowly things will start to come together with my posts. The three biggest upgrades will be announced last.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Anyoe who has used Vi-Pec, please chime in. This is going to be a learning experience for me. I have a competant tuner that is going to tune it for me, but I want to make sure that there are no sensors that need to be changed out. It is plug and play. I will also be posting everything I learn about the system on here. There is not much information out there about VI-PEC on Vortex.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

These updates are a week coming...Last Monday I went out to KMS to begin the tear down for the winter. I got all the emergency lights removed. I began to dig into the dash to get to the heater core and everything along with it. I am hoping to get to it tomorrow and tear it out. I got the majority of the front end removed and will be removing the shifter box in preparation to install a race shifter. It is not CAE and should be a neat surprise for everyone to see when its installed. This Monday I am hoping to get all the carpet out of the car and remove the front end completely.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)




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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Monday I will be completing tearing out the heater core and hopefully the remaining interior items. Front end will be coming off too, in preperation of some things we are doing.


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## ANT THE KNEE (Aug 25, 2000)

Are you going to be taking out the sound deadening and carpet?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am taking out the carpet. If I have time I will get some dry ice to remove the deadening stuff.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Getting the direct port water meth this week from USRT. It will be run via Eurodyne Boost Manager. Monday we will be working on a new custom intake along with the front end. I am going to be pushing real had to have it ready by March.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Got a bunch of stuff done today. I made a raised mount for the staging brake so that I could reach it without having to stretch my body to it. I mocked it up and the positioning if perfect. I got most of the gauges installed where the center vents used to be. I mounted the external oil cooler plate which also holds the sensors for the oil pressure and oil temperature gauge. I also installed my INA Engineering cast thermostat housing. Next week I should be working on the brake lines for the staging brake, intake manifold and the rest of the wiring for the gauges.


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

*FV-QR*

Looks like you're doing werk.

Is the oil pressure on the hot side or the cold side of the oil cooler?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

It I after the OEM cooler. I am replacing it with a mk3 oil cooler though that does not use the coolant lines, since I am deleting all those coolant lines. I forgot about that she I was fitting it. It's a 15 min fix though.


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

*FV-QR*

wut?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

It is after the OEM oil cooler.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Got this nice little tid bit in yesterday. Most people have not heard of this ECU, but the functionality that it has is phenomenal and it is plug n play with the exception that you have to use an independent wide band ecu. Next week I will have my brand spanking new INA Engineering race shifter. Needless to say the next couple weeks are going to be very very busy at KMS Development.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I was supposed to work on the car today, but I got sick as a dog. I did feel a little better when my new AN fuel lines/fittings came in from Goodridge. Then I got another package from INA Engineering. A nice sexy machined motorsports shifter. I need to make a base mount for it, but I do not see that being a big issue. That and the price will not break the bank at $365. 

The fuel line is black braided line. It is not metal braided, but it is stronger and E85 compliant. The inside of the fuel line is smooth and not ridged like most non-metal fuel line meaning more flow. 










Some of you may recognize this piece. There is a 15 page discussion about the making of this shifter. Well, INA Engineering has finally brought something to the market that will not break the bank or have the need of shipping from over seas or waiting on it to come in from over seas. It is very well made and smooth as butter. It is made for cable shift setups. At first I put it together wrong as you will see from the pictures. The second is put together correctly. 

Incorrectly put together.










Correctly put together after Issam corrected me. 










If anyone has dimensions and specs to make a base mount for this, let me know. I want to make it next Monday when we are working on some other tig welded pieces.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I should be getting some AEM goodies in soon to finish the fuel system. Inline pumps, adjustable FPR, and independent 02 sensor for the VI-PEC ECU.

I was also looking at the tuning software. It is rather user friendly and straight forward. The tuning screen is changeable to your liking and it comes with a base file. All the options are there to cancel out sensors or enable them. I'm liking it a lot.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

This past Monday I had big plans to get a lot done. I forgot some stuff at the house that day. I did get my electrical relays and switch moved over to the side to get ready for the new air to water intercooler setup. I finished the wiring for the AWE Tuning oil pressure gauge too. This coming Monday is going to be a bi-week for me because I have a meeting with the track manager at Atlanta Dragway. We are working on a cooperative race effort for their Friday Night Street Legal Drags.

I really wanted to get a mount made for the shifter, but that was one of the items I forgot......


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

You should get a billet coolant y from usrt to replace the oem plastic one.

Lookin good


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I'm going with custom AN lines and am deleting all those plastic parts. The system will be much simpler.


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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

Beat the Heat said:


> Got this nice little tid bit in yesterday. Most people have not heard of this ECU, but the functionality that it has is phenomenal and it is plug n play with the exception that you have to use an independent wide band ecu. Next week I will have my brand spanking new INA Engineering race shifter. Needless to say the next couple weeks are going to be very very busy at KMS Development.



can you link us to more information on this?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

As to the independent wideband controller, AEM makes a very nice wideband controller for the newer style o2 sensors. You should give it a look.

http://www.aemelectronics.com/produ...ntrollers/inline-wideband-uego-afr-controller


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

http://www.vi-pec.com/

You can download the software for free and it does not seem to hard to tune.

Groggory, I was looking at those, but decided to just let the VI-PEC ECU handle it.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Beat the Heat said:


> http://www.vi-pec.com/
> 
> You can download the software for free and it does not seem to hard to tune.
> 
> Groggory, I was looking at those, but decided to just let the VI-PEC ECU handle it.


I was going by what you said: " you have to use an independent wide band ecu"

Sounded to me like the Vipec didn't have a wideband controller integrated and needed a standalone wideband controller. If you have it handled then :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

This is the direct link for this ECU. It gives the specifications and various inputs that it has.

http://www.vi-pec.com/ecus/i88

Groggory, that inline controller is meant to replace the use of a gauge, which I am getting from AEM. I will have everything I need.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Beat the Heat said:


> This is the direct link for this ECU. It gives the specifications and various inputs that it has.
> 
> http://www.vi-pec.com/ecus/i88
> 
> Groggory, that inline controller is meant to replace the use of a gauge, which I am getting from AEM. I will have everything I need.


From the i88 manual:

9.2.4.2 Wide Band Oxygen Sensor
Wideband exhaust gas oxygen (EGO) sensors are able to accurately measure air/fuel ratios
over a very wide range from very lean to very rich. This makes these devices very suitable
for tuning purposes.
A wideband sensor can be used to run Closed Loop Lambda (CLL) for improved economy
and emission. A wideband sensor is a necessity if Quick Tune (refer to the iVTS online help)
is going to be used to tune the engine.
Any Analog Volt channel may be used to accept the signal from a wide-band EGO sensor
controller. *Note that i-Series ECUs cannot accept the signal directly from a wide-band
sensor. A wide-band controller works as an interface between a wide-band O2 sensor and
the ECU. The controller should connect directly to the sensor and output a voltage between 0
and 5V.*
The sensor calibration (the voltages that correspond to given air/fuel ratios) must be known
and this information must be entered into the ECU via iVTS .
The recommended Wideband Oxygen Sensor controller is the Innovate LC-1 Wide-Band
controller

In other words, you need to use a wideband controller to feed the i88 with wideband data. The i88 does not have a wideband controller built in.

However, as you've said, you are already getting a wideband gauge from AEM. The AEM gauge has the wideband controller built into it and spits the AFR out via the white analog out 0-5V wire. You'lll wire the AEM gauge white wire into the Vipec i88 ECU.

Very cool stuff. Carry on.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

At least the manual is very thorough. I plan to do a big info spread on tuning it, since a lot of people are not familiar with it.


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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

groggory said:


> In other words, you need to use a wideband controller to feed the i88 with wideband data. The i88 does not have a wideband controller built in.


Heck the Zeitronix ZT-3 is only $170 including the sensor. That's pretty affordable for this.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Nice, but AEM is helping out. I will be running a bunch of their goodies.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

[email protected] said:


> Heck the Zeitronix ZT-3 is only $170 including the sensor. That's pretty affordable for this.


The AEM is self calibrating, which is my favorite thing about it.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I like that about it too. They actually push that a lot about them. One of the reasons why I wanted to go with the AEM.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Today I got to try my hand at making my tower/mount for the Motorsports shifter from INA Engineering. I think it came out rather well. My measurements were correct for once.  I also made the brackets for the shift cables to be mounted inside of the cabin. Next week the shifter will be installed and ready to run. We are also going to be cutting out pretty much the whole back wheel well and covering it to shed some weight in the back. The new intercooler setup is almost completed and should be in late this week or early next week.




























I also got my goodies in from AEM. I am just about done with the fuel system. I just need a fuel rail, which I think I will be getting from 034 Motorsports.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Today was a somewhat productive day. We got the motorsports shifter mounted up from INA Engineering and I finally got all the interior carpeting/deadening removed. I also got all the plastic trim removed with the exception of the head liner.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

And now the reason why I moved all the wiring in the engine bay. Bell Intercooler Air to Water intercooler and ice tank reservoir. To pump it all is a Dedenbear water pump. The water lines will be coming from Goodridge Fluid Transfer.


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

I worked with a guy from Trinidad that had a 500+HP Celica. He claims almost everyone on the island that's anybody runs an air/water IC.


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

Brake Weight said:


> I worked with a guy from Trinidad that had a 500+HP Celica. He claims almost everyone on the island that's anybody runs an air/water IC.


Because it gets as high as 44*C with the humidity year round. The same for Jamaica / Barbados / Grenada etc.
Some of the nastiest Rotary's outside of Australia/New-Zealand reside in Trinidad


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

He brought some homemade videos to work and I was amazed at the quality of cars. A little show flashy, but all go for the most part. 

Aussies run a lot of air/water coolers as well.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I have plenty of updates this week. Last week I was sick all week and did not a thing done on the car. Today I went to the shop on a mission to get as much done as I could to catch up. I did get quite a bit done, but not everything that I wanted to. In the past week I picked up a new valve cover with 10an bungs welded on for the catch can and an inline swirl pot from a friend. I am going to have to modify the swirl pot and weld it onto my INA coolant flange to make it work the way I want it to. It should work wonderfully.

Today, when I first got to the shop I tore out every single coolant line that I could possibly find with the exception of the turbo coolant return line. This is in preparation of my new simplified coolant system using the inline swirl pot. After that I removed the oem fuel rail and installed my new 034 Motorsport rail. I mounted the AEM fuel pressure regulator, measured/cut my Goodridge fuel line and made my AN fuel lines that will mount to the surge tank. After that I got out all my new emergency lights and mounted them inside of the car. I will work on wiring later. That is the easy part. 

Next week, we are going to be drilling out the 4x100 rotors, finally. The goal is to have the mk3 brake setup installed then as well. I will be mounting the ice tank, hopefully finishing up the fuel system and starting on the coolant lines. John the owner at KMS is going to be working on the shift cable/linkage mock up and welding the swirl pot to the coolant flange. Things are moving forward more now then before, thankfully.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

It has been a very hectic week as usual. I did not get to upload these pictures from the work we did last week. It was a beautiful day, so I decided to work on the Quik Latches for the rear trunk. I removed the OEM locking mechanism and installed two Quik Latches to hold it shut. I made a mounting base for the piece that locks in the latch and it is very secure. Quik Latch was just approved this year by the NHRA for use with them. 





































While I was working on the latches, John was working in my inline swirl pot. I wanted to keep the OEM location of the coolant sensor, so we took the swirl pot and attached it to the INA Engineering cast aluminum coolant flange. It will be powder coated this week. This will delete the coolant ball and all the other extra coolant lines.










Al sent me my head a few weeks ago and I just got around to taking pictures of it this week. This is going to be installed by Stone Mountain Volkswagen in the near future. It came out very nice and uses Supertech valves, CAT Cams, CAT gold valve springs and CAT cam gear. I forget the exact set of cams that it is, but it not a usual set that is used. I cannot use VVT without the possibility of ruining some valves. Al did a stellar job on this over at PAG Parts.




























THe final work of the day was making sure my ice tank will fit in the passenger area of the car and it does.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

This week and the previous week I started on a few odds and ends. A lot of the stuff that needs completed I do not have the knowledge base to get it done and John, from KMS, will be helping me with. Last week I got the rest of the quik latches done. After I completed the hood, I thought to myself I may need something more to help me have peace of mind that the hood is latched. In comes the Quik Latch locking latch. It is big, well made and sturdy. Plus it locks.




























I made a mount for my AEM independent wideband ECU and mounted that next to the tachometer. I figured it is the most important gauge I will have, so I will have it in a place where it is real easy to see.



















I started on the mount for the external oil cooler. I just have to figure out exactly how I am going to mount it.










My Goodridge coolant lines and the lines I am going to use for the air to water intercooler came in as well. I will be using 16AN for the coolant lines and 12AN for the air to water intercooler. THe next step is to figure out how I am going to mate the 16AN lines to the OEM radiator. Originally I was going to be getting an aftermarket radiator with AN bungs, but it fell through within the past month. So if anyone has any ideas, please let me know.



















This week I started to work on all the wiring for the gauges and emergency lights. I need to go to the hardware store and get some quick disconnects for the wires to make it easier to remove when needed and get about 6 different colored wire. This is mainly for the emergency lights. I also want to get some nice wire covering. I was told I need to make everything nice and pretty to get more people to come look at the car. So I will do my best to make this happen. John from KMS is going to be mounting the water tank and starting to work on mounting the air to water intercooler. After this is done, we might be able to fire her up to make sure there are no leaks anywhere. Just in time for NOPI the first weekend in May and then SOWO or Southern Nationals.


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## oakleys20th (Apr 7, 2010)

Following thisopcorn:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I need some help on this one.... I am going to be running 16AN braided coolant lines from Goodridge LTD on my car. The problem I am running into is that the OEM radiator has plastic ends and a bung cannot be welded on. Here is my resolution. I plan on getting a half radiator from Skunk2 Racing and welding the bungs onto it. I think this will work and also free up some room on the front end. The main reason is to allow me to use the AN lines/fittings/bungs, which I already have. Do not be hating on the models that they are for. 

http://cms.skunk2.com/id/797/Alpha-Series-Radiators/


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Someone used to make AN fittings for the radiator core but I don't think they are made anymore


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## makdaddy (Apr 3, 2003)

http://store.034motorsport.com/radiator-high-output-mk4-vw-all-aluminum.html

Mishimoto Aluminum Radiator that was meant for the mk4 instead of a Skunk2?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I thought there was AN ends at one point too, but could not find anything on them. I know about the Mishimoto. I am waiting to hear back from a contact about a half radiator to see if it would be efficient enough. If it is, that is what I will probably go with, due to cost. I was just curious if there is anyone currently on here that went the same route and if they had issues with efficiency.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

See if this guy still has this: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6955676-FS-custom-mishimoto-radiator&p=85372233


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Edited. Did not realize Gofundme posts were not allowed.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Only one update this and only one word. PROGRESS


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

:thumbup:
I need to check up on this build more often.

VERY interested in seeing how that ECU works out for you along with the coolant setup.

And whats up with all of that green coolant?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

VW coolant is not readily available or cheap so I went with Prestone. I have been running it for 4 years with no issues. I forget which Prestone it is.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Pictures from this past Friday. Getting the car ready for an event. I had to back step a little bit to get it ready, since I am still waiting on some parts and fittings for the fuel sysem and intercoler setup. I am hoping to have the air to water intercooler on for the event, but it is not looking promising at this point. I do however love my new Quik Latch locking hood latches.


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## Mike Pauciullo (Jan 8, 2009)

Beat the Heat said:


> VW coolant is not readily available or cheap so I went with Prestone. I have been running it for 4 years with no issues. I forget which Prestone it is.


You shouldn't run anti-freeze just get water wetter


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Thanks Mike, I will look into that.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I just realized that I have a comparable product to that. Amsoil Coolant Boost. I got it from EAA Engineering when I got my oil last year. I have been meaning to use it, but forgot that I had it. I will definitely give it a try. You only mix 2 fl. oz. per quart so one bottle should be enough.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

While everyone was having a blast at SOWO this year, we were setting up at Southern Nationals at the Atlanta Dragway. It is a national NHRA event, NITRO cars and all. A lot of people enjoyed talking to us and kids had a blast with the drunk buster goggles along with getting to sit in the Beat the Heat Drag Jetta. Enjoy the pictures. Most of them are of kids having a blast with us. 










Future drag racer, perhaps.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Now that the last 2 big event are done with. I have about a month to get A LOT work done. So, last week I took the Jetta to Audio Unlimited in Snellville, GA. They relocated he battery to the trunk for me. I still need to get a kill switch for the back, but that should not be very difficult to install. Tuesday I am picking up the Jetta and immdiately taking it over to Stone Mountain VW in Snellville, GA. They are going to be installing the new clutch, race head, brakes and a couple other small items for me. After that the Jetta is going over to Mahdavi Motorsports in Liliburn, GA to have the nitrous installed and tune the car. Hopefully it will be ready to go on June 27 for Night of Fire.

I am also waiting on a new battery from Braille to come in. A lithium ion race battery. My new wheels from Lenso (AXE) are in as well. I am working on getting tires right now for them. 15x8.... No more big wheels and brakes.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

The Jetta is now at Stone Mountain VW waiting on pretty much the rest of the work to be done. Race Head, Stage 4 SPEC clutch, smaller brakes and a few other things. I am hoping all of that will be done early next week so I can get it to Mahdavi Motorsports for tuning and to install the nitrous. Stay tuned for the new dyno results and the fun of adding some juice to the 
F23. 

Big thanks to Audio Unlimited and Stone Mountain VW for helping get my car ready!!




















New Braille Racing battery came in last week. Nice and light Lithium Ion Battery. 










Goodbye Walmart special!!!!










I also got my new race harness in from RaceQuip. I am also getting a helmet and single layer jacket from them. If you want race safety equipment for not a lot of money look them up. 










New race spark plugs are in. These are much colder then NGK BKR7E's and are non-resistor type spark plugs.


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## Mike Pauciullo (Jan 8, 2009)

Rich, take the rebar out and move the battery to the front of the car.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I will be Mike. Probably not until I have everything figured out with the water to air setup. Things have been hectic with some logistical issues that came up. Nothing to do with the car. The good thing is, due to the size of the battery, it should not be that hard to find a spot for it when I do.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Got what should be my last tidbit for the car to put it together. Vent to atmosphere catch can from my friend Mr. Mason.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I also finally got my fuel pumps ready to go. I am not using the surge tank anymore, because the new pumps have a weird thread and no one makes the specific adapter that I need for it. I want to go with something similar to what Radium Engineering makes.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

There is finally progress being made. Stone Mountain VW got the car in the shop and are currently installing the new clutch, race head, exhaust manifold, catch can setup and a few other odds and ends. Hopefully, it will be done late this week or early next week ready to go have the nitrous installed and tuning started.


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## BlkMk2Jetta (Aug 25, 2008)

Brake Weight said:


> Just got home and opened the box to find this. The turbo is puny next to this thing.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Where did you get this manifold? Was literally digging around this thread just to find this lol


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

Doug was selling them with his Franken kits. I got it with an f23 setup. He went with the 'chinafold' shortly after I got mine. It's a V3, IIRC. They were cracking welds were the tubes come back together supposedly. Mine has held up to several thousand miles of beating on it. But my car isn't really a DD compared to normal people's. I wished I had wrapped it before install because it puts off a lot of under hood heat.

It places the turbo higher than the k04 sat forcing me to remove the strut brace I had so I could plumb in the FMIC.


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## BlkMk2Jetta (Aug 25, 2008)

Do we know how the Chinafolds flow in comparison? I've just never seen a tubular exhaust mani on a stock frame turbo so I was very interested.


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

I don't know personally. I don't remember what Beat the Heat is running with his setup, but I think the tubular is more for bling. But since the tubes were different lengths I'd assUme it'd be semi tuned and better than a stock style manifold. But spool ups would probably not be noticeable unless on a dyno chart.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I just replaced my V3 with a new Pro4. I loved the V3, but noticed that some of the support welds cracked. The new design is supposed to resolve those issues. You can get it from XS-Power/SS Autochrome. You would have to ask Doug about flow numbers.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

BlkMk2Jetta said:


> Do we know how the Chinafolds flow in comparison? I've just never seen a tubular exhaust mani on a stock frame turbo so I was very interested.


The JBS knockoffs will flow as much as you make them. There is extra casting in their collector that needs to be remove to really make them flow well. They are short tube manifolds as well, so they won't affect spool up while still capable of flowing more than needed on a hybrid. Why don't you just use a JBS kno off and dremel the collector like everyone else, these things are built like tanks ...



Brake Weight said:


> I think the tubular is more for bling


That pretty much sums it up! Bling, difficult fitment, and cracks are all they have been proven to be good for. Look, relentless is on version 2000 and still chasing a crack-less design. 



Beat the Heat said:


> I just replaced my V3 with a new Pro4. I loved the V3, but noticed that some of the support welds cracked. The new design is supposed to resolve those issues. You can get it from XS-Power/SS Autochrome. You would have to ask Doug about flow numbers.


You are still using them after the previous one that supposedly addressed the same issue for the 3rd time cracked? I commend you for having a lot of faith.


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## BlkMk2Jetta (Aug 25, 2008)

Is the "JBS Knockoff" the chinafold? Because they look very similar. If not can someone lead me in the direction of one that I can port without cracking issues. I'm torn between going Franken F23 right now or big turbo 50trim or make the jump to a 3071r... and I know that sounds dumb. But over 300whp seems quite possible on these. Just about instant power, and that speaks to me for road course and autocross racing. Not to mention it'll be cheaper and easier to install everything I'm figuring. And the engine bay will still look nice and stealthy.

So in short trying to make a decent parts list of the things I'll need to squeeze a bunch of power out of this thing safely. I also don't want to get used to it and then hate it. The car is also my daily as of right now which is another huge factor.


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## spartiati (May 19, 2008)

If you plan to daily and autocross the car then absolutely go for the f23. 300hp is possible with supporting mods (3" turbo back at a minimum). It will also be really responsive for autocross where the 3071r and 50 trim will leave you wanting more in the slow and tight turns.

Max and myself both run hybrid variants of the k04-02x and have fun at autocross and road courses. Max is really competitive in autocross while I enjoy HPDE events more. My car is also a daily driver and I feel is a good balance of power and spool for a daily fwd car.


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## spartiati (May 19, 2008)

Oh and to answer your question, yes, the knock off is the china-fold


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

BlkMk2Jetta said:


> Not to mention it'll be cheaper and easier to install everything I'm figuring.


It may be cheaper, but the smaller it is, the harder it is to install. :laugh:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Updates coming later today.


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## ant_718 (Mar 15, 2014)

Updates???


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

ant_718 said:


> Updates???


Later last week.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I lost track of time and forgot to update it with pictures. I hope to have it up in the next day or so.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

It is time for an update of sorts. As many of you know I had a lot of issues this year with getting my car worked on. Stone Mountain finally stepped up and installed the new race head, clutch, exhaust manifold and valve cover. They got the harder stuff out of the way. While waiting on my car to get done I got the idea to contact a newer shop in the area, Eurofed Performane, in Snellville. I talked to the owners Darko and Miki and they are super excited and motivated to work finish the car for me. The car runs fine right now, but still needs to be fine tuned due to the higher lift cams and machined head. Pictures below of what is sorta done. A new catch can was supposed to be installed. That is why there is that weird third AN hose connecting two ports together. Everything will be re-routed by Eurofed.




























I also finally got a full set of VF mounts for my solid inserts.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Why the change in mounts? What were the old ones? I can see them in that pic. And have others had issue with that "solid" hinged dogbone? They have issues with the regular VF dogbone, so not sure how solid there will be better. The side to side pivot of that style mount doesn't allow the proper flex from the motor.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I wanted solid mounts to help with traction, power transfer and wheel hop. My old ones are Vibra-Technic. I love them and never had any issues with them. My current dog bone is a bfi stage 2. The motor will not really have any movement at all. It will be a very very harsh ride, but its for racing only. I can deal with it.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Beat the Heat said:


> I wanted solid mounts to help with traction, power transfer and wheel hop. My old ones are Vibra-Technic. I love them and never had any issues with them. My current dog bone is a bfi stage 2. The motor will not really have any movement at all. It will be a very very harsh ride, but its for racing only. I can deal with it.


I'm well aware of the intention of upgrading mounts. My point was you already had upgraded mounts, but like everything else in this build, you want to do it at "11" for no other reason than to do it. I cut consistent 1.7 60's launches with slicks, VF mounts on the side, and poly bushings in the OEM dogbone, and a WOT BOX. Do you think these mounts are going to help you do any better? Especially when you run the risk of breaking that dogbone? The VF dogbone with bushings wears out the bushings because there is no "pivot" to give in that axis. You're going to install the same thing but without the poly in place to absorb that motion, so it would seem likely to break. Do you want to sell the Vibra-Technic mounts? PM me if they're available. Also, without going backwards in the thread, have you upgraded the control arms/bushings? That's where a lot of the axle killing wheel hop comes from in addition to the side motor mounts.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Not sure where the "edit" button went :screwy:, but if you really want to "lock down" the motor, call FFE and inquire about their dogbone replacement. It goes between the block and trans and replaces the OEM mount completely.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

I would look into the delrin inserts for the VF dogbone mount.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Ed recommended me to go this route over a year ago. I actually did not know he had a dog bone insert. I will have to ask him about it. That is when I got the inserts, but could not afford the mounts. I'll admit at the beginning of building this thing I didn't have a clue and got what I could get for no reason. I'm learning my lesson now and am slowly purpose building it for drag racing. I have upgraded bushings that will be going in too. I may keep the vibra-techno mounts for spares but an unsure at this time.

I've cut weight, adding significantly smaller brakes/wheels, head is built for high revs, gutted the interior and a few other things in keeping secret for now.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Must be a glitch on the forum software. Not showing my last post as the most current. Weird.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Got the last couple things I need for the Jetta yesterday from New German Performance. It is always a pleasure dealing with them. Even with H2Oi they got everything out for me.

New to me 288mm oem brakes to replace the big gawky Stasis brakes and a new seat with bracket that will not bend or brake on me.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Work is getting done at Eurofed Automotive in Snellville. They took the big brakes off and replaced them with 288 mm brakes. The big brakes are off to a better home now. One that will actually use them for their purpose, braking on a road course.


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

Before you go on with that solid dogbone bushing, you may want to give this a read.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7342554-Lets-talk-Dog-Bone-bushings


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

MÄDDNESSS said:


> Before you go on with that solid dogbone bushing, you may want to give this a read.
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7342554-Lets-talk-Dog-Bone-bushings


Or you may take Adam's advice in post #1292 and contact FFE for a solution will really lock down the pendulum motion of the drivetrain with zero risk of future failure. The dogbone delete plate is what Ed (1,000+ WHP) and many other high TQ application use -- I have ran it as well for a few years and dogbone failure is no longer a concern. The single-point (transmission side) anchoring with a bolt was not designed by VAG with too much power in mind. No matter what is done, if the single-point anchor is allowed to twist enough under load, it will eventually shear the threads, snap the bolt, or crack the dogbone. More than one point is needed to spread the load, and that's what the FFE dogbone delete plate delivers!


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

Yeah, thats already been suggested.

I was just sharing a meaning full thread on that very topic, which I don't believe FFE's mount was brought up.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I contacted Ed and am waiting for a response about his solution. Right now I am concentrating on getting the current stuff done though. I already have quite a few events locked in for next year and will not push it on and off a trailer like this year. haha


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Solid motor mounts are in. I will be going to the shop Monday to get pictures of everything they did so far. Seat, bell intercooler and nitrous still need to be installed. More to come.


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## EAA Engineering (Nov 29, 2012)

Hope you have a good dental plan! 😉


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## EAA Engineering (Nov 29, 2012)

When can we come down and codrag, next summer??


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

This is not the end of it. haha I emailed Ed about what he makes to replace the oem style dog bone. His reply made me smile. He has a couple setups that he makes. 

Well, the plan is to have it ready by February/March and not have to touch it anymore. I want to have it ready for the Boy Scout event we attend in the beginning of February. Well until I want more power next year, that is. This summer sounds good.


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## Mike Pauciullo (Jan 8, 2009)

Beat the Heat said:


> This is not the end of it. haha I emailed Ed about what he makes to replace the oem style dog bone. His reply made me smile. He has a couple setups that he makes.
> 
> Well, the plan is to have it ready by February/March and not have to touch it anymore. I want to have it ready for the Boy Scout event we attend in the beginning of February. Well until I want more power next year, that is. This summer sounds good.


It's a race car you always have to touch it


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I fully agree Mike. Wish I had the money for your setup. But at least we are headed in the right direction now.


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## Mike Pauciullo (Jan 8, 2009)

$600 take it lol


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Haha!! $600 I don't have.  We are sticking with the F23 for the rest of this year. Selling some parts to save up for the next year.


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## Badred (Dec 2, 2015)

Wow, nice car! How much money did you spend? It looks like very inerersting and...maybe angry .


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I do not like to think about that. There is a lot of time in it though.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I should have some updates this weekend or early next week.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

We are trying out a new turbo from Frankenturbo for this year. It should be in within the next few days. Track opens up in a few weeks and am looking forward to finally getting back on the track.


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## VWTHUNDER (Oct 14, 2004)

Beat the Heat said:


> We are trying out a new turbo from Frankenturbo for this year. It should be in within the next few days. Track opens up in a few weeks and am looking forward to finally getting back on the track.




F25 ?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Yes, it is.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am long overdue for an update. Eurofed Automotive in Snellville, GA has been hard at work to get the Jetta back up and running. I have video but still have to upload it. Some pictures from the progress.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)




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## craigalangibson (Dec 27, 2003)

Keep it up! I like reading updates. Interested in the F25. What kind of power bump will you get with that?


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Honestly, we are not positively sure on exactly how much more, but it will be a good difference. Dyno tuning should be next week, so we will see then. 😊


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Little updates. Getting there.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

The Jetta is done at Eurofed Automotive. I got it back yesterday. It idles good now. No issues that I can tell. I just need to retune it and we will be good to go. So far there are zero issues with the new Frankenturbo setup.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

For those of you who have plastic dip that is faded. I found a good way to save yourself a new dip. Black trim restorer. It brought it back to life and saved me a bunch of money. I am getting ready for a big event and could not be happier with it.



















This pic is 50/50. Left of car has restorer and the right does not. It is split by the front and back doors.


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

Cant wait to see some dyno pulls of that F25.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I can't either. Definitely looking forward to it soon.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

New catch can installed. Little by little we are getting there.










New battery is mounted too.


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## Three3Se7en (Jul 2, 2007)

Time for a 35R.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

In time.... I would love to go with a gt40r in a couple years. All depends on money at the time.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Getting a couple more things to finish up before tuning. SSAutochrome/XS Power (not the battery company) will be helping out with a smaller air to water intercooler and new diverter valve. Since the other one is overkill for the current setup, it made sense to go with a smaller one. I am already running a Relentless Pro V4 exhaust manifold from them that will work with the Frankenturbo F23. Very cool company and helpful.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

So, we are getting ready to tune the new ECU soon. A few things that I wanted to share about this before we get down to it. VI-PEC makes a very nice plug and play ECU. It uses every OEM sensor except for one. I almost made a mistake. It says that it must use an independent O2 sensor. I said okay, that is cool. I went back and read over everything and then saw that it cannot be connected directly to the harness. It must go through an AFR controller to the ECU. I thought to myself, ohhh man. I then realized that the AEM AFR gauge that I have has a built in controller with a 0-5v output that can be used to wire into the harness. Whew!!! I almost had a heart attack, because I am literally waiting on the tuner, QED Tuning (not the one from on here), in Alpharetta to call me to bring the car in to their mobile dyno. After watching Pete's video on YouTube about VI-PEC I realized that the tuning should not be that bad, when it is all said and done. I will keep everyone posted once the tuning begins.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I got a few things from SSAutochrome in regards to the added boost that will be coming with the new tuning. I got a new Diverter valve and Splitter valve. I got a smaller air to water intercooler since the first one was way too big along with black tubing to use for the air to water intercooler. This will be going in after tuning, which will hopefully be soon. These are some really great guys. I have never had an issue with any products from them. I will be posting up how everything works out with the car when it is all said and done.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

It has been a while since I had an update. I have been quite busy with work lately, but have had time to get some things done. The Jetta is finally about to be tuned. The wire loom is finally done for the LINK ECU. I am getting new tires from Maxxis. They are not slicks, but they are also not for 19's. I am putting in a sumped 5 gallon Rhodes Race Cars fuel cell and the car will be ready to roll. I am also going to be running a CSF King Cooler Radiator. For those of you who drag race a lot you might consider looking at it. I will add pictures later or check out my new page for what I do.

http://www.facebook.com/RichYBTH


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## vwdirector (Jan 31, 2006)

Nice build. Do you have pictures of the air to water IC installed? Also, what are the dimension of the intercooler. Keep up the good work.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

It will be installed soon. I am waiting on tuning to get done, which is taking longer then expected. When I get a chance I will get the dimensions of the air to water intercooler.


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## Eurotuner_20v (Jan 23, 2017)

Great build


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

It has been a little while since I have updated. Tuning should be done in the next couple of weeks over at QED Tuning in Alpharetta. In the mean time I am updating the look and cutting some more weight. I am removing the plastic dip and having the Jetta wrapped with vinyl from Avery Dennison. I am going with satin black and textured carbon fiber. I ditched the oem hood and trunk and go VIS Racing carbon fiber hood and trunk. I also got headlights from SPEC-D Tuning. Sorry I do not have tuning updates yet. Soon!!!!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Wheels and tires are good to go now.


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## epmkiv (Jul 29, 2016)

just read the whole thing


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

New radiator and intercooler setup installed. This setup is really making me happy. Tuning is starting today.


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## F4T (Jun 23, 2014)

Looks great mate!

Keen to see the results!


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## BlkMk2Jetta (Aug 25, 2008)

Any updates on this beast? And would it be possible for you to get weights of the stock hood vs the carbon? And the stock trunk vs the carbon? Very curious. I have waited years to pull the trigger on both of those


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am sorry for the long over due update, but I ran into electrical and fuel issues. When we went to tune it the car would not start. After a lot of trouble shooting it turns out it was an issue with my independent power switch for the fuel pump. It was a 30 second fix that I should have tried first. haha In the process of checking pumps, I busted off the plastic fuel outlet nipple for the fuel pump assembly. It is on order and I should have it next wee. Then the car is being wrapped. New wheels are going on up front and It will finally be tuned. It has been a long time coming with a lot of issues that I did not forsee, but well worth it. Below are some pics from when I busted the nipple.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I have been so busy with work lately that I forgot to give some updates.... We are still working on tuning unfortunately. Work has mandated mandatory overtime, so I have been quite overwhelmed since October. Since then, we have removed all the plastic dip and vinyl wrapped the Jetta. Next up is the tune and fuel cell and hopefully a full roll cage for safety.


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Well it has been forever since I have updated on here. I will get need pics soon. A lot has changed with the car since last update. I finally have the Jetta at a shop to tune it. The plastic Dip has been completely removed and the Jetta has since been wrapped in Satin Black. I am hoping Dyno tuning will be done soon. Stay tuned for more updates.


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## Brake Weight (Jul 27, 2006)

Pics or it didn’t happen. LOL.


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