# Electrical Problem



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.1
Friday, 08 March 2013, 11:45:15:56530
Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 032 PE
Component and/or Version: 2.0l R4/2V G 5229
Software Coding: 00001
Work Shop Code: WSC 00066
VCID: 70938F1123AD
Additional Info: 3VWRA69M84M018808 VWZ7Z0C7981361
13 Faults Found:
17763 - Cylinder 1 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit
P1355 - 35-00 - -
17769 - Cylinder 3 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit
P1361 - 35-00 - -
17772 - Cylinder 4 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit
P1364 - 35-00 - -
17766 - Cylinder 2 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit
P1358 - 35-00 - -
16648 - Fuel Injector #2 (N31): Short to Ground
P0264 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17833 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80): Short to Ground
P1425 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16645 - Fuel Injector #1 (N30): Short to Ground
P0261 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16654 - Fuel Injector #4 (N33): Short to Ground
P0270 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16651 - Fuel Injector #3 (N32): Short to Ground
P0267 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17880 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump: Short to Ground
P1472 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-00 - -
16687 - Cylinder 3: Misfire Detected
P0303 - 35-00 - -
16686 - Cylinder 2: Misfire Detected
P0302 - 35-00 - -


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## uDraft (Nov 12, 2008)

Check the ground connections under the battery, on the engine block. Look for loose or corroded plug connectors, damaged wires.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

thanks


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

uDraft said:


> Check the ground connections under the battery, on the engine block. Look for loose or corroded plug connectors, damaged wires.


The three grounds under the battery were solid. I only know of the one ground on the engine block by the starter motor and that one was good. All the plug connectors seemed good and I didn't notice any corrosion or damaged wires.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

bump still troubleshooting


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

BUMP THIS!

Post a complete auto-scan 

Rules are rules!

You could check the supply volatge relay and FP relay.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> BUMP THIS!
> 
> Post a complete auto-scan
> 
> ...


Rules keep order. Here you go this is after I cleared the codes,

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.1
Friday, 08 March 2013, 11:58:33:56530


Chassis Type: 9M - VW Jetta IV
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,16,17,19,22,29,35,36,37,39,46,47,55,56,57,75,76

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
Controller: 06A 906 032 PE
Component: 2.0l R4/2V G 5229
Coding: 00001
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 70938F1123AD
3VWRA69M84M018808 VWZ7Z0C7981361
7 Faults Found:
17763 - Cylinder 1 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit
P1355 - 35-00 - -
17769 - Cylinder 3 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit
P1361 - 35-00 - -
17772 - Cylinder 4 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit
P1364 - 35-00 - -
17766 - Cylinder 2 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit
P1358 - 35-00 - -
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-00 - -
16687 - Cylinder 3: Misfire Detected
P0303 - 35-00 - -
16686 - Cylinder 2: Misfire Detected
P0302 - 35-00 - -
Readiness: 0110 1101

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1C0-907-37x-ABS.LBL
Controller: 1C0 907 379 L
Component: ABS FRONT MK60 0101
Coding: 0004097
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 3319401D123B
No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.LBL
Controller: 1C0 909 605 F
Component: 04 AIRBAG VW61 0202 0003
Coding: 12340
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 2721A44DD6E3
6 Faults Found:
00592 - Seat Belt Switch; Passenger (E25)
32-00 - Resistance too High
01218 - Side Airbag Igniter; Passenger Side (N200)
32-00 - Resistance too High
00589 - Airbag Igniter 1; Passenger Side (N131)
32-00 - Resistance too High
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
01588 - Igniter for Head-Airbag; Drivers Side (N251)
32-00 - Resistance too High
01589 - Igniter for Head-Airbag; Passenger Side (N252)
32-00 - Resistance too High

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1J0-920-xx5-17.LBL
Controller: 1J5 920 906 J
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V52
Coding: 15232
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 341B43011735
3VWRA69M84M018808 VWZ7Z0C7981361
No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.LBL
Controller: 6N0 909 901 
Component: Gateway KCAN 0001
Coding: 00006
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: F0930F11A3AD
No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1C0-959-799.LBL
Controller: 1C0 959 799 C
Component: 1H Komfortgerát HLO 0003
Coding: 00258
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 3701740D0643
6 Faults Found:
00928 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Front Driver Side (F220)
54-10 - Incorrectly Equipped - Intermittent
00929 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Front Passenger Side (F221)
54-10 - Incorrectly Equipped - Intermittent
00930 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Rear Left (F222)
54-10 - Incorrectly Equipped - Intermittent
00931 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Rear Right (F223)
54-10 - Incorrectly Equipped - Intermittent
01358 - Internal Central Locking Switch; Driver Side (E150)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
01359 - Internal Central Locking Switch; Passenger Side (E198)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio Labels: 3B7-035-1xx-56.LBL
Controller: 3B7 035 180 F
Component: Radio ZSW 0016
Coding: 00401
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 2339B05DA2DB
1 Fault Found:
01336 - Data Bus for Comfort System
37-10 - Faulty - Intermittent

End --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Yup I will have to look into those relays.


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

That's called using non OEM cheap Chinese ebay coil or not following TSB's for ground updates.

Thank you for posting scan data.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> That's called using non OEM cheap Chinese ebay coil or not following TSB's for ground updates.
> 
> Thank you for posting scan data.


The fault codes are there regardless of the coil pack I put in there. I re-ran the ground from the coil pack to the ground.

I'm not sure of how to fix it.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

bump


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

You may have already burned up your ecu then with cheap China parts. 

If harness checks out and grounds are good along with supply voltage. 

You may need this. 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330766540293&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT 

or 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330879455690&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> You may have already burned up your ecu then with cheap China parts.
> 
> If harness checks out and grounds are good along with supply voltage.
> 
> ...


 Yeah I was thinking that could be the issue. Especially with the o2 sensors bare wires on the exhaust. Well tomorrow I will have to check the ECU for the first time ever.


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

How many threads are you going to start about this problem? 

Now, since Jack has repeated the same diagnosis I gave you in all your 2.0 forum threads, perhaps you'll fix it? :laugh:


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Anony00GT said:


> How many threads are you going to start about this problem?
> 
> Now, since Jack has repeated the same diagnosis I gave you in all your 2.0 forum threads, perhaps you'll fix it? :laugh:


 Anony00GT: 

Oh about infinity. No I think I will lolly-gag around forever.


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

:laugh:


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

I was trying to get my wiper arms off and I cracked my windshield. I should have got that special tool.


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

pooisgood2 said:


> I was trying to get my wiper arms off and I cracked my windshield. I should have got that special tool.


 :facepalm:


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

That stinks. 

Personally I use the air hammer with light taps and soak with penetrate fluid. 
Works really well for ones which are stuck because the tool will damage the arm.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> That stinks.
> 
> Personally I use the air hammer with light taps and soak with penetrate fluid.
> Works really well for ones which are stuck because the tool will damage the arm.


 I'm going to have to gamble on the tool because it is cheaper.


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Another tip you can try. 

Costs nothing. 

Take nut off. 

Bring wiper to service position like wiper blade is going to be changed and use entire arm as lever rocking back and fourth. 

Do this while being heated with heat gun and lube sprayed inside. 

If you need a unit we have them sir and individual parts. 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330765185973&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

An air hammer on a wiper arm in the wrong hands could be a complete disaster  

I've had good luck with Jack's second method, using the arm as a lever. It's rare that I need a puller to get a wiper arm off anything really.


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

LOL  

Trust me,.... an air hammer if you know how to use it can help with ones which are really stuck. 

Then again not everyone should be trusted with one.


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

I believe you. But you can't do that until you learn how to use it on things that are a little sturdier first  

I've done worse, trust me :laugh:


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Well he did already broke the window and a perfect time to learn.:thumbup::heart: 

Did you get the same heavy crummy snow we did?


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

Yeah about 2 inches of heavy icy crap. 

Jeep does powerslides real nice in that stuff


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Well tomorrow I might be heading to the stealership so I will see what I can do. I'm glad the snow is through.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Yeah the stealership put the boot on my driveshaft for $40 and I will put it on my car tomorrow. The wouldn't loan me a windshield arm puller tool though so I gotta save up some cash for that one.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Yup got the drive shaft on there and it's all good. 

So as far as the cracking windshield goes I thought one time I saw something that could prevent it spreading further. Anyone know about that? 

I got about $15 so I can prolly get the wiper arm removal tool tomorrow, get those off there and get to that ECU and check it out: do resistance of the harness and things like that. 

I may even totally remove the wiper motor and all that nonsense to lighten it up. Then if rain is in the forecast, I won't drive it.


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

There is a right way and a wrong way to do weight reduction. Removing the wipers is definitely the wrong way.


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

A hole saw works nice and leaves pretty round holes to decorate the car with.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Anony00GT said:


> There is a right way and a wrong way to do weight reduction. Removing the wipers is definitely the wrong way.


I don't follow you logic. Could you back up your theory?


"A hole saw works nice and leaves pretty round holes to decorate the car with."

Yeah that will look pretty good with my cracked windshield and my busted front bumper don't you think? I don't want to compromise the structural integrity.


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Depends on how you drill them holes.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> Depends on how you drill them holes.


I don't know what to say to that, except I'm not going to do that.

Well I am on my way to the shop to see if the gear puller I got will remove the wiper arms. If I get to the ECU harness and it doesn't look burned up or melted I will check the resistance between the prongs. I will do the same with the ECU. I'll post when I'm done.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Yup got back and got the ECU out of there. Removed the wiper motor and it was 7 lbs making my car 209 lbs lighter than stock.

Got some weird numbers of resistance on the harness: If this is confusing I can get a picture.

I could only get numbers on the bigger prongs and on the bigger harness one prong got no reading out of four and the others were: 
9.6 ohms
9.6 ohms
.2 ohms

on the smaller harness one prong was dead out of 3 and the two read
1.8 ohms

I got no reading off the ECU it's self. Do you know how to check them?

Here is a different question: Is .071" too thick for exhaust??

If I can't find a way to check the ECU out if the harness is good then there is nothing left to do but buy another one.


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

We offer services to check out the ECU, and credit it toward a replacement ecu with a comprehensive forensic report of old unit, with the best advice we can give you which is very fair.

Otherwise its time to RTFB and ref the data there.

I was only kidding on drilling holes for you.
It is something which is done with success, if done proper for light weight race cars.

If you want a true strong light weight exhaust you should go titanium.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> We offer services to check out the ECU, and credit it toward a replacement ecu with a comprehensive forensic report of old unit, with the best advice we can give you which is very fair.
> 
> Otherwise its time to RTFB and ref the data there.
> 
> ...


Is that your auction on eBay that you posted the link to? What is the charge to tell me if my ecu is good or bad? How many ecu's have you checked? Do you have a website?

What is RTFB?

FYI: kidding and joking around and sarcasm doesn't transfer well all the time through written and typed words.

Titanium is out of my price range.


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Yes that is my ebay auction.

We charge $290 USD which includes freight/insurance to check out an ecu and apply it toward a purchase of a new or reman unit if needed.

www.fixmyeuro.com
RTFB = READ THE FACTORY BOOK

Well I am serious about drilling holes. 
Sarcasm is pretty standard in a public forum.


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

He doesn't know you yet Jack 

I've been telling him to RTFB for weeks.

That 9lbs saved will do you a lot of good the first time you get stuck on the road in a sudden downpour, don't ya think?


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

LOL


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> Yes that is my ebay auction.
> 
> We charge $290 USD which includes freight/insurance to check out an ecu and apply it toward a purchase of a new or reman unit if needed.
> 
> ...


Let me ask you two something. Does the two letters at the end of the part number make a difference? Even with an ECU?

I found some ECU's substantially cheaper than your eBay auction and even cheaper than what it would cost for you to check mine. Sure I'd be rolling the dice a bit that it is a good seller and that the part is good and that they would refund if it was bad but ultimately, it's what I'm going to do.

I can understand people drilling holes in their cars, it would make it easier to shoot their guns out of in a death race or a drive-by.

Anony00GT-

"He doesn't know you yet Jack 

I've been telling him to RTFB for weeks.

That 9lbs saved will do you a lot of good the first time you get stuck on the road in a sudden downpour, don't ya think?"

I don't know Jack beyond this forum. I don't recall you ever typing RTFB. If I did RTFB -- your talking about the Bently manual? What section and what would I find?

It was 7 lbs and if it rains or if there are clouds in the sky or if I schedule a racing event the same time it might rain, I won't drive it. It's the same as the 30 lbs and parasitic drag I saved with the A/C system removal. And the same as the 45 lbs I saved with the passenger seat removal: nobody will sit there.


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

_



Let me ask you two something. Does the two letters at the end of the part number make a difference? Even with an ECU?

Click to expand...

_

*It does 

Consider this. You have a BBW which is ME7.1.1 vs ME 7.5 or 7.5.2 they are completely different from a standard 2.0. 
You have variable cam timing, most of those #s are for a different application, coding version, fuel system or geographic location.


You also have an Immobilizer to deal with which we include in our ECU auctions with options. We are plug and play, units are verified, with a warranty.

A big difference! Hope it puts things in better perspective. *


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> *It does
> 
> Consider this. You have a BBW which is ME7.1.1 vs ME 7.5 or 7.5.2 they are completely different from a standard 2.0.
> You have variable cam timing, most of those #s are for a different application, coding version, fuel system or geographic location.
> ...


Yeah I wish I could get rid of that camshaft. Bad experience on that. I ordered a 260 cam from tectonics tuning and this was one of my first mods ever and the damn thing is way different than the one that is stock. Mine has got a longer nose and a propeller for the cam position sensor. So I couldn't get my car back together cuz It was my first mod and couldn't do the timing and didn't want to drop a valve or whatever so the mechanic popped me with a huge bill but techtonics tuning gave me a refund and now on their website it says "not for BBW engines" for their cams.

Yeah I did a google search of BBW ECU and came up with a matching part number for mine for cheaper than it is for you to check mine. I still haven't popped mine open to see if the inside is burnt or checks out or wires shorted or missing. I will get a torx screwdriver and open it up cuz it's going to be a while till I get that kind of cash. So I will polish my car and then wax it and then put a tarp over it. Maybe even do a bit of searching for that smaller final drive. Maybe make my own lower strut bar to stiffen the chassis a bit.

"We are plug and play, units are verified, with a warranty." Right I read what you are typing. I'm going to buy from the other guy unless you have a hell of a counteroffer with a low-low price.


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

You never stated what/how much you are paying and where to verify.

Apples to apples for item, warranty and services.

Sure I will compete if its feasible.

Show me what we are talking about.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> You never stated what/how much you are paying and where to verify.
> 
> Apples to apples for item, warranty and services.
> 
> ...


http://compare.ebay.com/like/330884396564?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

This offers a one year warranty and it says fully tested all for $249.95 with free shipping. How long of warranty are you offering? Do you think you can make an offer that competes with that?

I really hope that putting a different ECU in my car makes it run well. After a new coil, plugs, wires and injectors it's another possibility. I think when the oxy sensor chord melted to the exhaust that the wires were shorting and screwed up the ECU.


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

That is not apples to apples buddy.

No I can not because what you have linked its not a fair compare of product or for the service we provide.

Mine are warrantied for a year/12K New and Reman.

I can knock off 50 Bucks of either you choose.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> That is not apples to apples buddy.
> 
> No I can not because what you have linked its not a fair compare of product or for the service we provide.
> 
> ...


How is your ECU better than the one that I linked to? This one has a year long warranty too and the guy has a 99.8% positive feedback rating and a top-rated seller award and has a feedback score of 7,950.


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

pooisgood2 said:


> How is your ECU better than the one that I linked to? This one has a year long warranty too and the guy has a 99.8% positive feedback rating and a top-rated seller award and has a feedback score of 7,950.


You cannot just plug in a replacement ECU and drive away.

Once you buy that ebay controller (assuming it is correct and working), you'll need to match it to your cluster and keys for immo, or else the car won't start. Which means you're going to need Jack's services anyway (or a dealership), and you're going to have to pay more regardless.

Jack's unit will be true plug and play, after he verifies yours is indeed faulty.


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

_



How is your ECU better than the one that I linked to? This one has a year long warranty too and the guy has a 99.8% positive feedback rating and a top-rated seller award and has a feedback score of 7,950.

Click to expand...

_
*One it doesn't include the same process, this is from a salvage yard.

Two it doesn't include the transfer services for plug and play.

Three, we do a forensic report and apply toward purchase, which can help stop you from making a mistake in some cases before installing a new or reman unit.

The best I can do is knock off 50 USD as a Vortex VCDS forum member.

Don't like my answer sorry cant change that, if you think you can do better with the other guy, by all means buy it from him.

Good luck.*


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

I finally found the right size torx screwdriver to pop off the back of the ECU and let me look at it and I don't see any burns or melts or disconnects or any funny smells. It could be alright. I wish I could borrow a buddy's ECU and pop that baby in my car to see if it works or not. But I don't know anyone who would lend me their ECU and like you say:




Anony00GT said:


> You cannot just plug in a replacement ECU and drive away.
> 
> Once you buy that ebay controller (assuming it is correct and working), you'll need to match it to your cluster and keys for immo, or else the car won't start. Which means you're going to need Jack's services anyway (or a dealership), and you're going to have to pay more regardless.
> 
> Jack's unit will be true plug and play, after he verifies yours is indeed faulty.


What is immo? Can I match it myself to the cluster and keys? What is a cluster and what is a key?

One it doesn't include the same process, this is from a salvage yard.

Two it doesn't include the transfer services for plug and play.

Three, we do a forensic report and apply toward purchase, which can help stop you from making a mistake in some cases before installing a new or reman unit.

The best I can do is knock off 50 USD as a Vortex VCDS forum member.

Don't like my answer sorry cant change that, if you think you can do better with the other guy, by all means buy it from him.

Good luck.

Well if I do need to verify the old one is shot I will shop around a bit and see where I can get it done cheapest.

If I can get one for cheap and have them do the plug and play adaptation for cheaper than you then that is what I will have to do.

I will chat with the dealership tomorrow and ask them about if they can check mine and if they can plug and play another.

Once I get this out of the way and my car driving then I can put the cat back exhaust on.


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## mwebb (Apr 19, 2008)

*did you measure supply at the injectors ? or ign coil ?*

does this engine run ?

test do not guess 
did you actually measure supply at the injectors or coil ? 

the AFR sensor heater may have touched ground and popped a fuse
did you measure supply and pulse width to the AFR sensor heater ? 
i have seen damaged harness es at the front AFR (it is NOT an 02 sensor) sensor take down the circuit that powers up the heater , internal to the ECM , 
but
you can easily measure that there is no 12v positive at the AFR heater , no guessing .

test do not guess 

why is anyone considering an ECM replacement when there have been no voltage drop tests ?
on the components that have set faults 

as you know "shorted to ground" can really mean , No positive supply in VW speak 

never 
use an ohm meter when you are trying to fix a broken car unless you enjoy chasing your own tail 
and never catching it 

the ECM can not see resistance the ECM can only see voltage or pulse width 



pooisgood2 said:


> VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.1
> Friday, 08 March 2013, 11:45:15:56530
> Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 032 PE
> Component and/or Version: 2.0l R4/2V G 5229
> ...


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

mwebb, we've been through this in previous threads. He shorted his O2 sensor and cooked the ECU.



pooisgood2 said:


> What is immo? Can I match it myself to the cluster and keys? What is a cluster and what is a key?


Immobilizer, the anti-theft system.

Please tell me you know what an instrument cluster and key are. You'd have a hard time starting the thing if you didn't know what a key is 

You cannot match immo yourself. The only people that can do that kind of thing are dealerships, and Jack. Almost no indy's have this ability.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Anony00GT said:


> mwebb, we've been through this in previous threads. He shorted his O2 sensor and cooked the ECU.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yeah I know what that stuff is but it is news to me that an ECU would have to be tinkered with in order to run in my car. **Soon to do a google search on Volkswagen Immobilizer** I called the dealership today and they said that they have no way to varify if my ECU is working unless it is in my car. They also said that if I bought one off the internet that I would have to install it in my car and tow my car to the dealership so that they could get my car running.

"He shorted his O2 sensor and cooked his ECU" -- I don't know this for sure. It's a possibility. I know my windshield is cracked from removing the cowl.

mwebb -- 

does this engine run ? Yes it would but it would sputter, misfire and die eventually and didn't like to rev or accelerate.

test do not guess 
did you actually measure supply at the injectors or coil ? I measured ohmage and I don't know any other ways to measure. 

the AFR sensor heater may have touched ground and popped a fuse
did you measure supply and pulse width to the AFR sensor heater ? No how do I do this?
i have seen damaged harness es at the front AFR (it is NOT an 02 sensor) sensor take down the circuit that powers up the heater , internal to the ECM , 
but
you can easily measure that there is no 12v positive at the AFR heater , no guessing . "AFR heater" Where do I find this?

test do not guess 

why is anyone considering an ECM replacement when there have been no voltage drop tests ?
on the components that have set faults I tested my alternator It gives good readings till the engine dies.

as you know "shorted to ground" can really mean , No positive supply in VW speak 

never 
use an ohm meter when you are trying to fix a broken car unless you enjoy chasing your own tail 
and never catching it 

the ECM can not see resistance the ECM can only see voltage or pulse width 

No rush guys, I will patiently chip away at this and eventually have a sweet race track car.


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

My offers are fair and is still on the table.

Yes we can test your ecu here in a car and even use the simulator virtual car here I built personally.

I pioneered the plug and play option and no tow to the dealer is needed.

The dealer doesn't have the time nor tools to do what I do vs hitting a flat rate time clock.

The reason I created this service was due to there inability and unfair business model of VW-Audi Group.
They will try to force you back to the dealer for to secure their monopoly interest in repairs to cars they produce, locking out the outside repair shop.
Well that worked well :heart:


----------



## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

[email protected] Parts said:


> They will try to force you back to the dealer for to secure their monopoly interest in repairs to cars they produce, locking out the outside repair shop.
> Well that worked well :heart:


They still do, I think you're the lone exception.

I just ran into a situation with a 2011 S4, I couldn't code the AWD control module. Gotta be done online via the dealership


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Listen, I think we are getting a little bit ahead of ourselves. We have a faulty ECU as one of the solutions but I'm not 100% sure that it is the problem. If there was a cheaper option than Jack for checking it that would be great. If not I need to run all the tests that I can to nail down the ECU as the culprit to my engine's mishaps.

My car is built for the race track. It's already got the .75 fifth gear up from the stock .83 so it tops out 10 mph faster than stock @ 125 mph which is really important for when I take racing at the Talladega Super Speedway.


----------



## mwebb (Apr 19, 2008)

*so the engine runs - these are the only "current faults" in AW 1 ?*

Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
Controller: 06A 906 032 PE
Component: 2.0l R4/2V G 5229
Coding: 00001
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 70938F1123AD
3VWRA69M84M018808 VWZ7Z0C7981361
7 Faults Found:
17763 - Cylinder 1 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit
P1355 - 35-00 - -
17769 - Cylinder 3 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit
P1361 - 35-00 - -
17772 - Cylinder 4 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit
P1364 - 35-00 - -
17766 - Cylinder 2 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit
P1358 - 35-00 - -
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-00 - -
16687 - Cylinder 3: Misfire Detected
P0303 - 35-00 - -
16686 - Cylinder 2: Misfire Detected
P0302 - 35-00 - -
Readiness: 0110 1101
------------------------------------------------------------------------
this is a very goofy thread 
if in fact it really is true that the engine runs and these are the only current faults in aw 01 

there is not enough evidence to condemn the ECM 
if there is additional facts / testing that every one else but i is aware of ,i can not see it in this thread ..... 
then i apologize to everyone who has been following this for interrupting the flow . 

the OP has little to no knowledge of this system, he may be able to understand simple test guidance from those who do know ....

so OP is there additional FACTs ? can you follow simple guidance ? 
your plans to use this car for "racing " as it stands are just plain silly imho 


is your AFR sensor switching when warm ?
MVB 33 f1 graph it 









what is the voltage measured across the two white wires of the front AFR sensor when the engine is running 
use your DVOM 
use T pins to back probe the harness , do not puncture the insulation









this is IGT (green trace) with spark primary current (blue trace) and secondary spark waveform (red trace )
you fault s show a problem with the IGT circuit (green trace) 
-beyond voltage drop testing , you can not test that circuit without a scope
no one can 








i can describe voltage drop testing of that circuit


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

mwebb said:


> Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
> Controller: 06A 906 032 PE
> Component: 2.0l R4/2V G 5229
> Coding: 00001
> ...


mwebb -

"i apologize to everyone who has been following this for interrupting the flow ." -- This is my thread and I need help. I will take as much as I need.

Thanks for your help. Your instructions left me with a bunch of questions. To test this will I need to put my ECU back in? Will it go in and run without any problems?



What is aw 01?
so OP is there additional FACTs ? What do you mean FACTs?
can you follow simple guidance ? Yes
your plans to use this car for "racing " as it stands are just plain silly imho Don't disrespect me
is your AFR sensor switching when warm ? I Don't know
Yeah if you think I should test this AFR circuit before I say I think the ECU may be shot then I will do it. First I need to find where this AFR circuit is, what a DVOM is, if that is a voltage meter then yes I can test the two white wires.

this is IGT (green trace) with spark primary current (blue trace) and secondary spark waveform (red trace )
you fault s show a problem with the IGT circuit (green trace) 
-beyond voltage drop testing , you can not test that circuit without a scope
no one can 








i can describe voltage drop testing of that circuit

If I should test it then yes describe that please. If this scope is cheap enough then I should buy it. I bought a compression test kit and I'm glad I got that. Another thing that I would like to have is one of those timing lights to test if my engine is on time. I don't know for sure it is.


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

mwebb

Please read post 12 and he posted in other threads as well.



> _Yeah I was thinking that could be the issue. Especially with the o2 sensors bare wires on the exhaust. Well tomorrow I will have to check the ECU for the first time ever. _


----------



## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

pooisgood2 said:


> Another thing that I would like to have is one of those timing lights to test if my engine is on time. I don't know for sure it is.[/COLOR]


A timing light will do absolutely nothing for you on a BBW engine.


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Ok thanks Anony00GT, probably because of the VVT? or why?

mwebb - You were asking about previous threads for more information and here are links to three other threads all dealing with my same car's engine's problem:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5870638-How-to-cure-my-car-s-lurchyness
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5890965-Ignition-Coil-Pack-Help!
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5950995-Misfire-help

There's no rush on this because I can ride my grandpa's motorcycle around until I fix my car. It would be nice to figure it out though.


----------



## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

pooisgood2 said:


> Ok thanks Anony00GT, probably because of the VVT? or why?


Timing lights are used to set ignition timing on engines with adjustable distributors (read: old American carbureted V8's  ). VW (and I believe all modern EFI cars) have ignition timing set by the ECM/PCM, and it cannot be adjusted.

To properly set mechanical timing on BBW, you need to set #1 to TDC via flywheel mark, remove valvecover, and use the proper VW tool to lock the camshaft in place. You will also likely have a fault code if the timing is not correct.


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Very Good Brian,

IMPORTANT!

Don't forget the stretch bolt being loosened and replaced to insure the freewheel of the cam adjuster static, for a dead nuts vario setting with that lock bar VC removed.:heart:


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Anony00GT said:


> Timing lights are used to set ignition timing on engines with adjustable distributors (read: old American carbureted V8's  ). VW (and I believe all modern EFI cars) have ignition timing set by the ECM/PCM, and it cannot be adjusted.
> 
> To properly set mechanical timing on BBW, you need to set #1 to TDC via flywheel mark, remove valvecover, and use the proper VW tool to lock the camshaft in place. You will also likely have a fault code if the timing is not correct.


[email protected] - 

"Very Good Brian,

IMPORTANT!

Don't forget the stretch bolt being loosened and replaced to insure the freewheel of the cam adjuster static, for a dead nuts vario setting with that lock bar VC removed."

Is there no way to test the timing besides an ECU fault code? 

The project is on hold until I read from mwebb. It's 40 degrees out and too cold to polish my car. I don't have enough cash to solve the ECU problem and I'm not sure that it is the problem. mwebb has some tests to run.

mwebb -

What will I learn from running your tests?

Everyone - 

Thanks for the help.


----------



## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

pooisgood2 said:


> Is there no way to test the timing besides an ECU fault code?


I told you how to in the second half of my post above. Jack is reminding you that the bolt that holds the adjusting unit to the cam must be replaced when you release it to replace the timing belt.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Anony00GT - 

"To properly set mechanical timing on BBW, you need to set #1 to TDC via flywheel mark, remove valvecover, and use the proper VW tool to lock the camshaft in place. You will also likely have a fault code if the timing is not correct."



Anony00GT said:


> I told you how to in the second half of my post above. Jack is reminding you that the bolt that holds the adjusting unit to the cam must be replaced when you release it to replace the timing belt.


Ok that tells me a bit. I always need instructions in front of me so I will do a google search on it and print out something good if I find it. That's too bad that nothing can test the timing besides the ECU. I would hate to adjust the timing if it was spot on, nobody wants to fix something that isn't broken.

I'm still waiting on mwebb's reply. I sent him a PM yesterday telling him to check this post, because I don't know what two white wires to check. I think I need to put the ECU back in to check those two wires.


----------



## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

Dude.

*THE TIMING ON BBW IS NOT ADJUSTABLE, IN ANY WAY. IT'S EITHER CORRECT OR IT ISN'T.*

The wiring diagrams are in the service manual.


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Correct Brian 

It's set at a static setting on the belt/tensioner and lock tool for this engine. 

HOWEVER!:heart: 

For BBW...... there is a unique oil pump which is larger for volume requirements of the engine. 
If the second bypass valve in the oil filter housing is faulty it can throw timing off during cranking significantly. 

It can also do this in any of the VW-Audi engines by a lifter valve float with hydraulic lifter applications but the BBW has the vario, so it can do some additional weird fun things for CPS angle. 

At some point I think people will appreciate this tip.


----------



## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

Yes, I've seen plenty of cases where oil pressure problems result in variable timing DTC's being set. coughvtecandvanoscough. 

Now if I ever see it on BBW I know where to look


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Anony00GT said:


> Dude.
> 
> *THE TIMING ON BBW IS NOT ADJUSTABLE, IN ANY WAY. IT'S EITHER CORRECT OR IT ISN'T.*
> 
> The wiring diagrams are in the service manual.


 Dude. 

*I DISAGREE. IF I WAS TO TWIST THE SELF-ADJUSTING CAM GEAR PAST WHAT IT NORMALLY RUNS AT I COULD ADVANCE OR RETARD THE TIMING. A NEW SELF-ADJUSTING CAM GEAR WAS INSTALLED BY A MECHANIC AFTER I FAILED TO INSTALL A CAMSHAFT SOLD TO ME BY TECHTONICS TUNING THAT WOULD NOT FIT MY BBW ENGINE. THE REASON WHY HE PUT A NEW ONE ON AND NOT THE OLD ONE IS BECAUSE I TOOK THE OLD ONE APART EVEN THOUGH IT SAID NOT TO ON IT BECAUSE I WAS TRYING TO SEPARATE IT FROM MY CAMSHAFT. IT WAS DUMB TO DO THAT BUT I LEARNED QUITE A BIT, LIKE HOW TO REMOVE THE UPPER INTAKE MANIFOLD, HOW THE BBW CAMSHAFT HAS A PROPELLER AT THE END FOR THE CAM POSITION SENSOR AND HOW IF I DON'T LOOSE MY PATIENCE HOW I CAN BUILD ANYTHING.* 

I refuse to check the service manual until I know what I will gain from checking the two white wires in front of the AFR sensor. Doing something without knowing why is not good at all. What is the AFR sensor and where do I find it? 

mwebb where are you?


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

Um...yeah... :banghead: 

:facepalm:


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> Correct Brian
> 
> It's set at a static setting on the belt/tensioner and lock tool for this engine.
> 
> ...


 Of course if a guy wanted to he could adjust the belt/tensioner and lock tool for the engine or build his own. 

All VW 2.0L engines from 99.5-04 take 4.4 quarts of oil with a filter change. It's possible that I fudged a bit and put the wrong amount in. Like you say this could throw the timing off because of a number of reasons. But it's too bad there is no other way to check it besides a fault code. 

Grandpa's Impala is boring compared to my Jetta. But that's fine there is no rush to fixing it. When I rush is when I make mistakes and all the fun is gone. 

Thanks for the help guys.


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

It was meant for a problem with the bypass valve or oil pump bypass valve. 

Not how many quarts of oil you put in.:heart:


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> It was meant for a problem with the bypass valve or oil pump bypass valve.
> 
> Not how many quarts of oil you put in.:heart:


 I made this thread to get help solving my electrical problem. While I think it's nice to know that stuff and it may come in handy in the future, we need to get back on topic. It appears as though mwebb is gone for good so I won't know why to test the two white wires in front of the AFR sensor so I'm back to saving up for a replacement ECU.


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Respectfully it was on topic. :heart:


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> Respectfully it was on topic. :heart:


 Respectfully:heart:, 

If it is then you need to say that it could be what is causing my electrical problem in my car. You got to tie in your idea with the problem and reason why I started this thread. Otherwise it seems off topic and counter-productive. 

I won't check the thread till next week because I won't be near the internet till then and I will be out of town at my grandpa's cabin doing maintenance. 

If right now I wanted to put my ECU back into my car to run tests would the engine run at least as good as it did before I took it out?


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Not really. 

Maybe read from beginning of thread as the answers seem as if they are already there but you failed to understand them or omit them. 

I will be quiet now and let the thread play out then. 

Good Luck!:heart::thumbup:


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> Not really.
> 
> Maybe read from beginning of thread as the answers seem as if they are already there but you failed to understand them or omit them.
> 
> ...


 I think somewhere in this thread or in one of the other threads that I linked to I called myself an amateur mechanic. The problem is an electrical one that causes my engine not to run well. The answer is to do all the testing possible before I condemn the ECU. Mom wants to get my car running. I was going to patiently chip away at it and get it to go. I still don't know how to remedy it. Therefore as of now I think it would be best to take it to a professional. Sure it's more expensive that way, but while I can chase ghosts and try different things and it doesn't bother me to have a spare ECU, mom will want to have the car work and not try any bs that won't fix the car. 

If I put the stock ECU back in my car will my car be immobilized?


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

*The car still doesn't run*

Looking back at the fault codes and the whole system scan what are your thoughts on this?


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Your not asking me right?
I'm trying to be quiet but you could always refer to prior posts yourself.


----------



## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

pooisgood2 said:


> Looking back at the fault codes and the whole system scan what are your thoughts on this?


There's 3 pages worth of thoughts in this thread alone


----------



## mwebb (Apr 19, 2008)

*...."mwebb -

What will I learn from running your tests?"....*

the answer to your question - stop typing , perform the tests 
i do not mind helping rookies 
it's what i do 
but 
the rookies must follow directions and perform the test 

i can not interpret test results if there are no test results to interpret

ready begin .

pooh is bad 
unless you are a fly


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

LMAO


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

mwebb said:


> *...."mwebb -
> 
> What will I learn from running your tests?"....*
> 
> ...


Glad to hear from you. Here's a tip: check and answer your personal messages. It's been a while since I have checked this but I think if I remember right that I wasn't sure of where to find your wires to test. Refer back to post # 57 it's got tons of questions I need answered.



> Your not asking me right?
> I'm trying to be quiet but you could always refer to prior posts yourself.


Jack- Perhaps I will end up using your services. I would hate to use them if they weren't needed.



> There's 3 pages worth of thoughts in this thread alone


Anonoy- Yeah I think that mwebb's thoughts are particularly interesting don't you agree? I like how he tries to help me diagnose what's wrong.


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Please let me know.

Before you do!

I think everyone would agree all kidding aside.

Be advised we here can only help you as good as you provide information.

Respectfully, you shouldn't be working on this based on the data you have submitted.

It is my advice you seek a professional for your diagnosis, as it may save you time and money in the end.


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> Please let me know.
> 
> Before you do!
> 
> ...


What information do you want me to provide?

When I work on my car I gain knowledge.

I have done custom things and have made choices that effect how the car performs for what I want to do with it. Can somebody tell me how to diagnose my car? I started this thread to bypass the paying of a professional. Time is not an issue. The right help is the issue.


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

I have already asked you questions you haven't responded to properly.

I really think you should consider a pro, seriously!


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> I have already asked you questions you haven't responded to properly.
> 
> I really think you should consider a pro, seriously!


Really? I'm sorry. There are 87 posts and I don't want to read them all. Can you re-type your questions? 

mwebb offered some interesting ideas but won't respond to my questions... What I need are better members with more knowledge. What I am considering is a different website. Perhaps they will have the answers I need.


----------



## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

pooisgood2 said:


> There are 87 posts and I don't want to read them all.


Well, OK then princess :screwy:

Good luck with other websites. Maybe they can give you a one-word fix-it-all answer


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

NOPE

Ask Jesus and even he will say that you must help yourself first. 

No ice cream cone today then.


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Anony00GT said:


> Well, OK then princess :screwy:
> 
> Good luck with other websites. Maybe they can give you a one-word fix-it-all answer


If your done trying to help then quit posting. Like my girlfriend she didn't want to put effort into the relationship anymore so I quit chatting with her and got another.



> NOPE
> 
> Ask Jesus and even he will say that you must help yourself first.
> 
> No ice cream cone today then.


I got some professional help yesterday and it was great.

Now I'm going to check my posts on vwforum.com and jettaforums.com


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

bump


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

What happened in the other forum with your new professional help which would require a bump here?:thumbup:


----------



## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

Bump? Bump this.

Treat your car like your girlfriend. When it stops working, get another :laugh:


----------



## RichardSEL (Apr 5, 2010)

Anony00GT said:


> Bump? Bump this.
> Treat your car like your girlfriend. When it stops working, get another :laugh:


:bs:
Tried that. And it cost me half me house


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> What happened in the other forum with your new professional help which would require a bump here?:thumbup:


I'm about ready to check my thread on jettajunkie..com.

Bump? Bump this.

"Treat your car like your girlfriend. When it stops working, get another" 

No, I'm going to get my car a box of chocolates and roses and that will make everything better.

RichardSEL - welcome to the forum. The first post in the thread has some fault codes that causes my car to misfire, sputter and eventually die and I'm trying to diagnose the problem.


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

POST #8 man.

Start over.:facepalm:


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> POST #8 man.
> 
> Start over.:facepalm:


 Read post #9 dude. 

I try the OEM coilpack and the Chinese coilpack and they both have the same outcome. I did the TSB and ran the new ground and it still doesn't work. I have new injectors, plugs, wires and coilpack and I get the same results. 

I wish mwebb would answer my questions. Ok, time to check my jettajunkie and vwforum posts.


----------



## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

I'll be nice, and repost post #11, since you seem to have stopped at 10: 



[email protected] Parts said:


> You may have already burned up your ecu then with cheap China parts.
> 
> If harness checks out and grounds are good along with supply voltage.
> 
> ...


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Correct Brian a double whammy 

The cause and the effect. 

Cause! 
Cheap China coil burns down ecu or bad ground. 

Effect! 
If not corrected before replacing said damaged ecu you get another bad engine ecu. 


If all grounds and consumers ( fuel injector's ) are with supply voltage, FUSES, ignition switch, and G28/G40 are good etc. 

YOU NEED AN ECU!


----------



## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

[email protected] Parts said:


> YOU NEED AN ECU!


 Yes. 

*BUT NOT BEFORE THE SOURCE OF THE PROBLEM HAS BEEN CORRECTED*. Just so we're clear.


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Affirmative :thumbup:


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> Correct Brian a double whammy
> 
> The cause and the effect.
> 
> ...


 Yes, I learned how to do a multiquote! "Cheap China coil burns down ecu or bad ground." The problems were what caused me to buy the Chinese coil and therefore they were there before the coil. 

I know I checked some relays, I can't say I remember if I checked all the fuses responsible, we are afterall talking about a problem that dates back half a year, what is the supply voltage to the injectors? I haven't checked the ignition switch. The G28/G40 pass visual inspection. Thanks. 



Anony00GT said:


> Yes.
> 
> *BUT NOT BEFORE THE SOURCE OF THE PROBLEM HAS BEEN CORRECTED*. Just so we're clear.


 Whenever you use all capital letters it's like your yelling. Thanks.


----------



## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

Correct me if I'm wrong, but this whole thing started out as a misfire, correct? 

Subsequent replacement of the coil with a China unit resulted in primary ignition codes, which still recur even after OE coil installation, right? Hence, it may have been a bad coil at first, but because you installed a cheap coil, you now have a bad ECU. 

Service manual will have wiring diagrams for the injectors.


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Dude you need to go verify every fuse in the car like NOW! 

Basics man BASICS. 

Not just whining in the forum.


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Anony00GT said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong, but this whole thing started out as a misfire, correct?
> 
> Subsequent replacement of the coil with a China unit resulted in primary ignition codes, which still recur even after OE coil installation, right? Hence, it may have been a bad coil at first, but because you installed a cheap coil, you now have a bad ECU.
> 
> Service manual will have wiring diagrams for the injectors.


 It's tough for me to remember how it started. 

I ordered the China unit on 12/10/2012 

Here is a scan: 

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.1 
Monday, 12 November 2012, 23:14:22. 
Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 032 PE 
Component and/or Version: 2.0l R4/2V G 5229 
Software Coding: 00001 
Work Shop Code: WSC 00066 
VCID: 709353C323AD 
Additional Info: 3VWRA69M84M018808 VWZ7Z0C7981361 
7 Faults Found: 
17560 - Long Term Fuel Trim Additive Air; Bank 1; Range 2: System too Lean 
P1152 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 
17863 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs 
P1455 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent 
19058 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs 
P2626 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent 
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected 
P0300 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 
16685 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs 
P0301 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent 
16687 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs 
P0303 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent 
18663 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1: Signal Shorted to Heater Circuit 
P2231 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 

thanks 



[email protected] Parts said:


> Dude you need to go verify every fuse in the car like NOW!
> 
> Basics man BASICS.
> 
> Not just whining in the forum.


 I'm an amateur and yes, I need to be told to check fuses. I'm searching for help not whining. If I can't find it here I can find it at jettajunkie.com, vwforum.com, volkswagenforum.com or generationdub.com. 

thanks


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Well go there because that isn't a proper scan for this forum,..... again! 

You need to post licensed version data for help here. 

Oh you are whining. 

When you ask the same questions over and over, and fail to listen to more then helpful answers from everyone. "I'm gonna go here for help waaa." 

I would suggest you write down what you do, start over, and not use your poor judgment or memory which clearly bad.:laugh: 
Before asking what is perceived by everyone here, as not only insulting, but really stupid, THINK! 

See no one is paid to be here and the time they give is valuable. 

Stop crapping on everyone who gives here or there time.


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> Well go there because that isn't a proper scan for this forum,..... again!
> 
> You need to post licensed version data for help here.
> 
> ...


 I spent the $100 and I have the full version now. I already said that I'm not whining. Can you read? 

This is my data: 

I have 44 saved Vag-Com scans from 9/19/2012 - 3/8-2013 

I don't think anyone here is stupid. 

I crap on those who deserve it. 

I checked all of the fuses and they passed visual inspection except the three 10 amp ones that go to the engine had cracked plastic but the metal looked good. So I replaced them with new Busman fuses. 

I hope that fixes my car. Thanks.


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

bump


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

For what there is nothing to bump. 

Bump this!


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Does anyone know how to block a user from a forum? bump.


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Your not getting answers because your not providing any additional diagnostic data to go on past what was given to you already.

Add real data vs whining for people to try and help.

Otherwise, Bump This!


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

What data do you seek?

I will do a vag-com scan when I can. I did a test run last weekend and it sputtered a bit and never ran good. On another forum they are wanting me to check out my fuel filter I replaced to see if it has a fuel pressure regulator.


----------



## [email protected]ropean Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

It is my opinion you are not qualified to be working on your car and you should seek the services of a professional in your area.


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

pooisgood2 said:


> What data do you seek?
> 
> I will do a vag-com scan when I can. I did a test run last weekend and it sputtered a bit and never ran good. On another forum they are wanting me to check out my fuel filter I replaced to see if it has a fuel pressure regulator.


I am the one who needs the data of how to fix my car. Yeah the fuel filter has it's own FPR. I'm trying to figure if there is a good way to measure if there is enough pressure getting to the injectors.



[email protected] Parts said:


> It is my opinion you are not qualified to be working on your car and you should seek the services of a professional in your area.


No,

With the right information anything is possible. Just like calculus, with the notes and enough time I can do any problem. Without, it takes tons of studying. With the right information I can fix my car.


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

In order to get a problem solved, you need to observe the data input and it must be consistent.

So far you haven't done that.

Did you fail calculus?

Please start over it will help you.
As of now you are way off in a closed loop standing in the corner with the dunce cap in full effect.


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> In order to get a problem solved, you need to observe the data input and it must be consistent.
> 
> So far you haven't done that.
> 
> ...


Consistent data input? I change one thing at a time: oxy sensor, coil, injectors, wires, plugs and observe the output to no avail.

I failed calculus twice. One time was so so close and I got the cost of tuition back from a lawsuit. I would pass that same class if I took it again.

No I took the dunce cap off your head and used it as a funnel to change my car's oil.

Is this the information that you seek?

_VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.1
Wednesday, 03 July 2013, 16:54:55:56530


Chassis Type: 9M - VW Jetta IV
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,16,17,19,22,29,35,36,37,39,46,47,55,56,57,75,76

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
Controller: 06A 906 032 PE
Component: 2.0l R4/2V G 5229
Coding: 00001
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 70938F1123AD
3VWRA69M84M018808 VWZ7Z0C7981361
7 Faults Found:
17763 - Cylinder 1 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit
P1355 - 35-00 - -
17769 - Cylinder 3 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit
P1361 - 35-00 - -
17772 - Cylinder 4 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit
P1364 - 35-00 - -
17766 - Cylinder 2 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit
P1358 - 35-00 - -
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-00 - -
16687 - Cylinder 3: Misfire Detected
P0303 - 35-00 - -
16686 - Cylinder 2: Misfire Detected
P0302 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0110 1101

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1C0-907-37x-ABS.LBL
Controller: 1C0 907 379 L
Component: ABS FRONT MK60 0101
Coding: 0004097
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 3319401D123B
No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.LBL
Controller: 1C0 909 605 F
Component: 04 AIRBAG VW61 0202 0003
Coding: 12340
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 2721A44DD6E3
6 Faults Found:
00592 - Seat Belt Switch; Passenger (E25)
32-00 - Resistance too High
01218 - Side Airbag Igniter; Passenger Side (N200)
32-00 - Resistance too High
00589 - Airbag Igniter 1; Passenger Side (N131)
32-00 - Resistance too High
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
01588 - Igniter for Head-Airbag; Drivers Side (N251)
32-00 - Resistance too High
01589 - Igniter for Head-Airbag; Passenger Side (N252)
32-00 - Resistance too High

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1J0-920-xx5-17.LBL
Controller: 1J5 920 906 J
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V52
Coding: 15232
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 341B43011735
3VWRA69M84M018808 VWZ7Z0C7981361
No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.LBL
Controller: 6N0 909 901 
Component: Gateway KCAN 0001
Coding: 00006
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: F0930F11A3AD
No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1C0-959-799.LBL
Controller: 1C0 959 799 C
Component: 1H Komfortgerát HLO 0003
Coding: 00258
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 3701740D0643
6 Faults Found:
00928 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Front Driver Side (F220)
54-10 - Incorrectly Equipped - Intermittent
00929 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Front Passenger Side (F221)
54-10 - Incorrectly Equipped - Intermittent
00930 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Rear Left (F222)
54-10 - Incorrectly Equipped - Intermittent
00931 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Rear Right (F223)
54-10 - Incorrectly Equipped - Intermittent
01358 - Internal Central Locking Switch; Driver Side (E150)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
01359 - Internal Central Locking Switch; Passenger Side (E198)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio Labels: 3B7-035-1xx-56.LBL
Controller: 3B7 035 180 F
Component: Radio ZSW 0016
Coding: 00401
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 2339B05DA2DB
1 Fault Found:
01336 - Data Bus for Comfort System
37-10 - Faulty - Intermittent

End ----------------------------------------------------------------_


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Start with installing a factory new OEM coil please.

Check all fuses, supply voltage/relays for consumers/switches and grounds for all connections.
Tone out the harness from coil to ecu.

If the harness checks out.

Change the ecu.

That is right from the repair manual.
Don't deviate from here.

06 END OUTPUT!


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> Start with installing a factory new OEM coil please.
> 
> Check all fuses, supply voltage/relays for consumers/switches and grounds for all connections.
> Tone out the harness from coil to ecu.
> ...


"Start with installing a factory new OEM coil please."

That does seem to be the consensus.

"Tone out the harness from coil to ecu."

How do I do this?

Thank you.


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

_



How do I do this?

Click to expand...

_Hence, why I stated contact a professional to assist you with proper test equipment, or if stubborn................ go take an electronics class to fail two times, and read the repair manual.

RTFB!

WITH CONITIUNITY!


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> Hence, why I stated contact a professional to assist you with proper test equipment, or if stubborn................ go take an electronics class to fail two times, and read the repair manual.
> 
> RTFB!
> 
> WITH CONITIUNITY!



I may be able to order a coil pack early next week if everything goes to plan. Can you tell me if Karlyn or Beck Arnly are good brands?

What does RTFB stand for?


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

STI Karlyn is a great brand.


So is Eldor, Bosch and Temic.

Anything else is junk.


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> STI Karlyn is a great brand.
> 
> 
> So is Eldor, Bosch and Temic.
> ...


Thank you


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.1 
Tuesday, 13 August 2013, 13:18:42:56530 


Chassis Type: 1J - VW Golf/Bora IV 
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,16,17,19,22,29,35,36,37,39,46,47,55,56,57,75,76 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail! 
Controller: 06A 906 032 PE 
Component: 2.0l R4/2V G 5229 
Coding: 00001 
Shop #: WSC 00066 
VCID: 70938F1123AD 
3VWRA69M84M018808 VWZ7Z0C7981361 
7 Faults Found: 
17763 - Cylinder 1 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit 
P1355 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 
17769 - Cylinder 3 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit 
P1361 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 
17772 - Cylinder 4 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit 
P1364 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 
17766 - Cylinder 2 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit 
P1358 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected 
P0300 - 35-00 - - 
16687 - Cylinder 3: Misfire Detected 
P0303 - 35-00 - - 
16686 - Cylinder 2: Misfire Detected 
P0302 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 
Readiness: 0110 1101 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1C0-907-37x-ABS.LBL 
Controller: 1C0 907 379 L 
Component: ABS FRONT MK60 0101 
Coding: 0004097 
Shop #: WSC 00066 
VCID: 3319401D123B 
No fault code found. 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.LBL 
Controller: 1C0 909 605 F 
Component: 04 AIRBAG VW61 0202 0003 
Coding: 12340 
Shop #: WSC 00066 
VCID: 2721A44DD6E3 
6 Faults Found: 
00592 - Seat Belt Switch; Passenger (E25) 
32-00 - Resistance too High 
01218 - Side Airbag Igniter; Passenger Side (N200) 
32-00 - Resistance too High 
00589 - Airbag Igniter 1; Passenger Side (N131) 
32-00 - Resistance too High 
00532 - Supply Voltage B+ 
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent 
01588 - Igniter for Head-Airbag; Drivers Side (N251) 
32-00 - Resistance too High 
01589 - Igniter for Head-Airbag; Passenger Side (N252) 
32-00 - Resistance too High 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1J0-920-xx5-17.LBL 
Controller: 1J5 920 906 J 
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V52 
Coding: 15232 
Shop #: WSC 00000 
VCID: 341B43011735 
3VWRA69M84M018808 VWZ7Z0C7981361 
No fault code found. 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.LBL 
Controller: 6N0 909 901 
Component: Gateway KCAN 0001 
Coding: 00006 
Shop #: WSC 00066 
VCID: F0930F11A3AD 
No fault code found. 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1C0-959-799.LBL 
Controller: 1C0 959 799 C 
Component: 1H Komfortgerát HLO 0003 
Coding: 00258 
Shop #: WSC 00066 
VCID: 3701740D0643 
6 Faults Found: 
00928 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Front Driver Side (F220) 
54-10 - Incorrectly Equipped - Intermittent 
00929 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Front Passenger Side (F221) 
54-10 - Incorrectly Equipped - Intermittent 
00930 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Rear Left (F222) 
54-10 - Incorrectly Equipped - Intermittent 
00931 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Rear Right (F223) 
54-10 - Incorrectly Equipped - Intermittent 
01358 - Internal Central Locking Switch; Driver Side (E150) 
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent 
01359 - Internal Central Locking Switch; Passenger Side (E198) 
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 56: Radio Labels: 3B7-035-1xx-56.LBL 
Controller: 3B7 035 180 F 
Component: Radio ZSW 0016 
Coding: 00401 
Shop #: WSC 00066 
VCID: 2339B05DA2DB 
1 Fault Found: 
01336 - Data Bus for Comfort System 
37-10 - Faulty - Intermittent 

End -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 

This scan was taken after I installed the Eldor coil pack I bought from: 18T_BT. The problem is still there as I thought it would be and I'm out $110 that I could have used on a different part. So we need to dig deep to solve this misfire problem. If a pro can do it so can I. 

BTW: The exhaust that I installed today sounds sweet!


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

> _7 Faults Found:
> 17763 - Cylinder 1 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit
> P1355 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
> 17769 - Cylinder 3 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit
> ...


 Pay attention to your scan compared to last time. 
It is possible you have a clone coil which is not true Eldor. 

Be advised though your faults have changed to Intermittent indicating a possible connectivity issue. 
Better check your harness.


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> Pay attention to your scan compared to last time.
> It is possible you have a clone coil which is not true Eldor.
> 
> Be advised though your faults have changed to Intermittent indicating a possible connectivity issue.
> Better check your harness.


 With all three coil packs the scan is the same. We can cross off the coil pack as the cause of the problem. 

I did a visual inspection of the harness and did some resistance tests of the plugs and that's as far as I knew to go. I will do some research of how to fully check a harness.


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Harness, ECU, or coil. 

I don't think you have properly ruled out the coil. 

You will feel really dumb if you change an ecu and harness with same result. 

This is why I recommend you get an OEM factory coil. 

Did that coil you bought come in a genuine Eldor box?


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> Harness, ECU, or coil.
> 
> I don't think you have properly ruled out the coil.
> 
> ...


The coil I recently bought came in a box like I would get from a dealership.

I think it's safe to say that the coil pack is not the cause of the problem and it is likely that I have three good coil packs.

I'm thinking of trying a second ecu out I've found a cheap one here: http://www.automotix.net/usedautopa...aw2408b.html?gclid=CPWA-4zx_bgCFahDMgodEScAzw


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

If you are sure the coil and harness are good, the next step is the ecu.

The reason I questioned the coil was due to the really low price you paid.


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

I ordered that ECU and installed it and now am dealing with the immobilizer. Ross-Tech emailed me a procedure and all I need are my ECU and car PIN # and I'm good to go. How do I figure out my PIN#'s?


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

We provide those services legally.

http://www.europeanpartsemporium.com/?page_id=31


http://www.europeanpartsemporium.com/?post_type=product


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> We provide those services legally.
> 
> http://www.europeanpartsemporium.com/?page_id=31
> 
> ...


I used the first URL listed and I filled out both required fields and asked these questions: Which of these do you suggest for me with my new/used ECU replacement?

Can I get prices for each of these?

How would I find my own car's PIN #?

And your website would not let me submit them.

Thank you.


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

This is to stop bots.

Login is required 

User : human
Password : human

Use the contact form directly and fill in all fields after login.

http://www.europeanpartsemporium.com/?page_id=31

I recommend a data transfer for price and no pins/docs needed.

I will quote you for all services in a response when a completed contact form is provided.

We don't tell you how to get a PIN..... 
We authenticate and provide them with a legal process.

We are authorized by VW-Audi and registered with the OEM/NASTF for performing GeKo sessions.


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> This is to stop bots.
> 
> Login is required
> 
> ...


What does NASTF and GeKo stand for? I don't see where I can login. Thanks.


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

You simply cannot get the PIN yourself. You have to log into VW's system online, called GeKo, to do that. Only VW dealers and a small number of indy shops (like Jack) have that ability.

Immobilizer systems across the board are more or less dealer-only deals, with few exceptions.


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Thanks Brian,

Data transfers are better, cheaper and don't involve a PIN so all you do is plug and play.
It also was developed by us so you don't get forced into purchasing new keys for some clusters.

You send me your ecu's marked and credentials to identify donor/receiver/authenticate ownership.

I transfer data and destroy the old core or you pay a strip fee so no dual identities of VIN # exist.

$250 for a transfer and $40 for Express freight fully insured, with a signature request.

$250 for a strip if you want the old core back. 
Very easy.


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Anony00GT said:


> You simply cannot get the PIN yourself. You have to log into VW's system online, called GeKo, to do that. Only VW dealers and a small number of indy shops (like Jack) have that ability.
> 
> Immobilizer systems across the board are more or less dealer-only deals, with few exceptions.


Thanks Brian. I can't wait to get my car driving.



[email protected] Parts said:


> Thanks Brian,
> 
> Data transfers are better, cheaper and don't involve a PIN so all you do is plug and play.
> It also was developed by us so you don't get forced into purchasing new keys for some clusters.
> ...


Wow Jack,

Your process seems more complex and more expensive than what the dealership said. I called them yesterday and they said that they could make it work for one hours worth of work @ $100. All I would need to do was the leg work to trailer up the car and drive it 60 miles. I think the dealership offers a better deal. Can you persuade me differently?

Thanks, T-Rex.


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Nope not really.....
You are quite the negotiator aren't you?
How about I give you a forum Vortex VCDS discount @ $25 dollars off?

My services cost more money, because I have more hoops of fire to jump through on my end doing it legally.

After you tow 60 miles @ 4 bucks a gallon + tolls, that 100 bucks, and maybe a good old fashioned switcheroo.
You might not feel so well,..... becoming someone's hand puppet fisting you good......


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> Thanks Brian,
> 
> Data transfers are better, cheaper and don't involve a PIN so all you do is plug and play.
> It also was developed by us so you don't get forced into purchasing new keys for some clusters.
> ...


So I need to send you both ECUs and I get one back for $290? minus the $25 to be $265?



[email protected] Parts said:


> Nope not really.....
> You are quite the negotiator aren't you?
> How about I give you a forum Vortex VCDS discount @ $25 dollars off?
> 
> ...


I've never pulled a trailer before and there are no tolls here in Nebraska. I don't think that I will become someone's hand puppet fisting me good. I will consider which option to choose when I weigh all the variables. There are more variables with the dealership but it appears cheaper with them as well and cash is king.


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Correct 265 with discount....... and yes cash is King......

You know where you stand here at least and I back up what I say.

I don't however backup your used ecu and neither will the dealer.

Please let me know.


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

I had C2 Motorsports deactivate the immobilizer and I had them tune the ECU as well. I tried both ECUs out today and most of the time the car clicked and never turned over. Sometimes it did turn over but eventually it clank clanked misfired and then died.

I then took apart and wire brushed the grounds, put them back and the car still clicked and wouldn't start.

What do you think?


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Sorry can't help ya....


TTYT.


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

I tested the starter circuit and everything passed. I'm starting to think it needs a new engine. What do you think?


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

I think you need a new car and before you make that choice tow it to a professional for a second opinion.....


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> I think you need a new car and before you make that choice tow it to a professional for a second opinion.....


Yeah I want a Lancia Stratos. 

I found this on automotix.com:

Description:	Gas Engine 
2.0, 4, AUTO, FLR, FWD 2.0L, VIN A, 5TH DIGIT, (GASOLINE), ENG ID BBW RG
Fits:	2004 Volkswagen Jetta
2.0L, VIN A, 5th digit, (gasoline), engine ID BBW
Condition:	76K miles
Mileage:	
Premium Quality - Very Low Mileage!

Warranty:	1-Year (policy)

Discount Price:	$1,724.00	Buy Now
Stock Number:	H76543661L

Location:	San Francisco, California 90670

Inquire About This Engine

This has automatic for it's transmission. Will that work for my manual car?


----------



## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

This just keeps getting better and better... opcorn:


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Hey Brian what's doing?

This guy loves punishment I see......:heart:


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

I have 23 days over christmas break where I can work on my car. Do you think I can swap the engine in that time? Will I need a hoist? Automotix.com has another engine with 140k ish miles on it and I think it may be a manual BBW. Thanks for your help.


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Your question is outside the range of this forum and it is advised you seek a professional for safety reasons.


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

C2 Motorsports told me that their Immobilizer defeat would work on any engine with the same BBW code as mine. Therefore I need to find a good one for my budget of $1175.


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

My units come Immo defeated and it is ready to work.....or you can send your unit to be defeated.


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> My units come Immo defeated and it is ready to work.....or you can send your unit to be defeated.


They charged me less, so I went with them because cash is king. Do you know where I can find a BBW engine for $1175?


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Nope 

Cash is king but loyalty brings benefits sometimes not expected.....that trump cash savings.

Have fun as I see you are still dropping coins.


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Olston's Auto Recycling, which is a 50 mile drive, said they could get me a 150k BBW engine w/ a 90 day warranty for $1300. Do you know where I can get a better deal?


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8E_zMLCRNg


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

After taxes the cost comes to $1391. He said that the engine weighs around 350 lbs so I should be able to make something work in my 20 some days I have to do the swap. I think it will be neat to get an engine in there that is not broken in, in the same way that the one going out is, and I will be pissed if I get that one in and it is some electrical problem. Then I will take it to a pro and he should fix the problem quite cheap I would assume. Do you think that the year old gas in the tank will run the engine?


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Sure....... Sounds like the long way through the Holidays of BBW Festivaus.


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

The local dealership Schowyer Volkswagen priced my new ECU harness at over $400. Do you know where I can find a cheaper one?


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Nope 

That is actually a really good deal.


----------



## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

Still working on this heap?

Dude. Just have the local scrapyard turn this mess into a pancake and get yourself a Honda Civic. You'll thank me later.


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> Nope
> 
> That is actually a really good deal.


Sure. Another thing I was wondering, and this may seem like a stupid question, is can any 2.0L Mkiv ECU harness work or does mine need to be a BBW harness?



Anony00GT said:


> Still working on this heap?
> 
> Dude. Just have the local scrapyard turn this mess into a pancake and get yourself a Honda Civic. You'll thank me later.


Wait, would it be better, if I were to abandon the project, to sell the parts off the car, than to sell it to a scrap yard? And, no, this is not the direction that I am heading. My direction is: 

get it running
get coilovers
get a lower stress bar I though Eurosport had a good one
get BFI's Stage II Poly Transmission Mount
NOS
Upgrade Final Drive
race it


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Sure. Another thing I was wondering, and this may seem like a stupid question, is can any 2.0L Mkiv ECU harness work or does mine need to be a BBW harness?Why even ask stupid questions like this?
Just install what is correct for the vehicle because you clearly shouldn't be crossing stuff over or even basic tests are way way way over your scope of ability. 
That is determined by the repeated ways you ask questions and not to be mean.

You need to stick to a consistent path until you improve your skills.


----------



## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> Sure. Another thing I was wondering, and this may seem like a stupid question, is can any 2.0L Mkiv ECU harness work or does mine need to be a BBW harness?
> 
> Why even ask stupid questions like this?
> Just install what is correct for the vehicle because you clearly shouldn't be crossing stuff over or even basic tests are way way way over your scope of ability.
> ...


Jack,

I ask a stupid question like this on all four of the car forums I'm involved with: vw vortex, jettajunkie
Volkswagen forum and vw forum because talk is cheap and the other harness is $200 cheaper than my BBW ECU harness


----------



## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

The attributes for the BBW are not like the standard 2.0.....

There is three OXS sensors, an EGT and a its variable cam timing etc.

Please don't cross over parts or try to as it will only cost you more money then staying the course.

Respectfully you don't have the skills to do this...... so only do what you can see has been documented.

Oh Hell....... if you took the time to learn how to trace WD and make proper connections....... you could just make your own connections.......

Wanna save money.... get off the forum tit...... as this whole thread has been kind of a dog turd showing nothing learned other then you are a cheap skate which will spite himself.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> The attributes for the BBW are not like the standard 2.0.....
> 
> There is three OXS sensors, an EGT and a its variable cam timing etc.
> 
> ...


Well I've heard that the BEV is somewhat similar to the BBW and I haven't exactly figured out what the deal is with that. So, if I could figure out that a different cheaper harness would work then I could save money. That's all I'm after right now. $425 for some plastic, copper, and connections seems a bit steep for an ECU harness, which is what the dealership Schwoyer Volkswagen wants to charge me, and I cant find the part anywhere else.

When I get a new or new/used ECU harness then I will figure out how to run the wires, and I will install the Black Forest Industries Stage II polyurethane transmission mount inserts that I got. Then I hope the misfire is gone. If the misfire is still there then I know that it needs a new/used engine, and I will return back to the plan which is about four upgrades from being done with the 2004 VW 2.0 Jetta.


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

BEV is not the same as a BBW that I can tell you.

BEV would be closer to AVH and AZG....... so neither one of those will work either.


BBW is ME7.1.1 those are ME 7.5

If you read the repair manual.......you would know this!


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> BEV is not the same as a BBW that I can tell you.
> 
> BEV would be closer to AVH and AZG....... so neither one of those will work either.
> 
> ...


Very good my friend, that is a good indicator that the BEV ECU harness is not a good option. I should read my Bently service manual more often as well. So once I get my tax refund back, it should be enough that I can afford the harness and install it and fix this electrical problem that is causing this misfire, and I can hit the streets with my car for the first time in 14 months. But that 14 month old Shell Premium gasoline is another issue. Is it ok to use it?


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Cant give advice on fuel quality I can not confirm so must answer on side of caution and state get new.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Well I'm going to do one last quick search for a cheap BBW harness before I fork over the $410 or so to the dealership for their new one.


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

5 pages of nothing...................go on

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZeOjZuxaV-s


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> 5 pages of nothing...................go on
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZeOjZuxaV-s


With money in the bank it's now crunch time. I don't really think that I'm going to buy the harness from the VW dealership. They had two one for : $432 and the other was $700+. So that means that I will probably get that engine that I listed earlier. I think I've tried about everything else. 

Or, I may buy this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CBR/1...d=100033&prg=8920&rk=1&rkt=4&sd=181302332155& but as you can see, it has 17 watchers, so I'm not sure that it will pan out, hell, I won't even bid unless the seller messages me back.


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

:facepalm:


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

Is it a bad harness, or a bad engine? Or dump the car for a bike? Indecisive poo cannot decide... opcorn:


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

I'm mailing a check today to Olsten's Auto Recycling for $1620 for delivery of my 78k miles BBW engine. I'll probably need some pointers on installing it.


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Sorry the VCDS forum is for questions in regards to VCDS please read the repair manual and observe safety.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

I guess that I've seen it that they take the front bumper off and the radiator too and everything and slide the engine out that way, what do you think about that? I think I might need antifreeze, anything else?


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

:facepalm:


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

pooisgood2 said:


> I guess that I've seen it that they take the front bumper off and the radiator too and everything and slide the engine out that way, what do you think about that? I think I might need antifreeze, anything else?



In all seriousness, this thread should be locked. I didn't think it was possible, but it just reached a new low.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

the engine is set to arrive next Thursday. It may be a while until I get around to installing it and I will begin this weekend removing the other one if it's warm enough and I'm excited to try the BFI stage II transmission mount and I'm optimistic that the car will run the new engine thanks to C2 motorsports tuned and cleared ECU.

I will use paint, tape, or chalk to indicate where the wires and tubes go to where.


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LyPFQKpRnd0


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Well I've made 15 disconnections and I mark the wire/tube and where they go to with duct tape and a number written in pen 1 goes to 1 , 2 to 2 etc...

I may remove the hood or borrow somebody's engine hoist


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

I should have drained all the fluids first because there is a mess on the ground and I still need to disconnect the exhaust. I got the tensioner, alternator off and drained the antifreeze and oil today.

Does anyone know if a mark 5 final drive transmission part will fit into my car?


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

I just disconnected the exhaust and am soon to finish all the electrical and tubing disconnects. Then I'm somewhat lost. I will disconnect the transmission and then the engine is ready to come out. How? I don't know yet.

The new/used engine will have egr valves by the exhaust and I was wondering if u had any ideas of how to fill these? Can I weld them up with welding rod?


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Well I've made about all the disconnections that I can; 22 in all. All marked with duct or blue painters tape and numbered. There are just about 5 or 6 coolant and oil tubes that I can't undo. So I think I will cut them and get them somewhere. Maybe the auto parts store has what I need or eBay or the dealership. Then I will remove the transmission and disconnect the motor mount and then it's ready to get out of there but how, I don't know yet; maybe it slides underneath my jacked up car, or I buy a hoist or borrow a friends or the front part: bumper, radiator, whatever comes off and I slide it out that way. Then the new/used engine comes on Thursday, but it may be a while before I get around to working on it because I like to spend time with my girlfriend. If when the new/used engine is installed and it is still misfiring, then I will replace the ECU harness. If it runs well, then I will plan out one of three upgrades, NOS, suspension, or the final drive upgrade, all while driving it and having fun.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

I went to O'Riellies auto parts to see if they sold lengths of the thickness of the tubing that I needed for the coolant tubing and they didn't and said it all had to be pre-bent. So I cut the tube anyways, and took some samples with in case I find out where I can get lengths of tubes and cut them myself to length. So I have one last electrical connection that I can't quite get the clip on, then I detach the transmission and the mount and the engine can be removed.


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Did someone say something...........................?


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

[email protected] Parts said:


> Did someone say something...........................?


This is all I heard

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_nYXkKN1k7M


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kpwkCGPa-XE


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

I left the work to be done that I just need to disconnect the mount and the transmission and the engine can come free. My engine is delivered on Thursday. I will soon get the inner tube for the moped on monday next week and the three bicycle tires going so I got tons of transportation options.


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## squabeggz (Feb 20, 2009)

Can't wait to see the finished product. Please never let this thread die. :laugh:


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

I got ten feet each of two sizes of my cooling hoses and I hope that's what I need. I got a gallon of antifreeze and some zip ties. Grandpa says they delivered the engine so everything is a go except the engine hoist.


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

I wonder if those hoses would be long and strong enough to hang from a tree?


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Basically, the engine is ready to be removed after I remove the hood, and get a hoist. I'm looking for a cheap one for sale. 

I'm also not in a hurry, and while I'm waiting I'm looking to pin down my next upgrades specifically; the suspension, final drive, and NOS.


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)




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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hxOoM0-NJI&feature=player_detailpage#t=126


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Well I got the engine out because I bought a hoist from Harbor Freight. My Pittsburgh hoist cost me $203 ish. So I'm optimistic because my engine came with a harness. Something that bothers me is that the flywheel seemed to be different and that area was slightly different. So, I'm temporarily hung up until I get the EGR valves screwed in and I get the exhaust nuts to go on after I cut down four of them to allow my OBX header to fit better. So things are working and moving and I will keep you posted.


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Content was vacated by JACK :heart:


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Yeah, Jack, you could be right maybe it's not called EGR. It's the deal with the combi valve. It's taken care of because I screwed some screws in and then I cut them off. The engine is in there and attached to the transmission. So I got a ton of connections to make and I can fire up the engine. My only hang up now is that transmission mount is a real bitch to get to so that I can upgrade it to BFI's Stage II inserts.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

So, I'm soon to fire up the engine, after I connect some tubes and fill the fluids. So I will soon see if it works and if it doesn't there are plenty of parts to switch around to piece it together. So it's quite exciting.


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

I just read this thread for the first time.

Dude comes here with an electrical problem. Gets lots of good advice. Instead, throws lots of random parts at it, maybe actually checks the harness, still not sure. Can drop money into his 2.SLOW for tuning, exhaust, mounts, headers, suspension, final drive and NOS but can't have Jack check out his ECU for him. Finally replaces the ECU months into the job, at which point he has trouble just cranking because the battery is probably dead. Response to this electrical problem is to buy another engine and start disconnecting the old one with a Sawzall.

Jesus wept. I begin to wonder if this is someone's trolling or performance art. If so, it's magnificent.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

jyoung8607 said:


> I just read this thread for the first time.
> 
> Dude comes here with an electrical problem. Gets lots of good advice. Instead, throws lots of random parts at it, maybe actually checks the harness, still not sure. Can drop money into his 2.SLOW for tuning, exhaust, mounts, headers, suspension, final drive and NOS but can't have Jack check out his ECU for him. Finally replaces the ECU months into the job, at which point he has trouble just cranking because the battery is probably dead. Response to this electrical problem is to buy another engine and start disconnecting the old one with a Sawzall.
> 
> Jesus wept. I begin to wonder if this is someone's trolling or performance art. If so, it's magnificent.


Yeah, that harness might have been the problem. I couldn't quite figure out how to check it. I thought about replacing the harness before the engine, but it was so expensive. Upwards of $700! So, I got the engine (which came with a harness), installed it, had a minor problem with a leaky thermostat, which was cured with a different o-ring, and I drove my car around the block today. So, the right front tire gets low, it must have a leak, and the engine might have a slight torque issue, that is that I have to rev it quite a ways to get it going from a stop. But the car isn't licensed or insured so it will sit. So electrical problem cured? I think so.


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## [email protected] Parts (Nov 27, 2006)

Content was vacated by JACK :heart:


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Yeah. I suppose that the Bently Manual would tell me how to get to the bolts on the transmission mount? Those suckers are so tough to get to.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Yeah. I suppose that the Bently Manual would tell me how to get to the bolts on the transmission mount? Those suckers are so tough to get to.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

I'm about six days away from getting to my car, and I'm hoping for some tips to get to that transmission mount's bolts.

I got a Euro Sport Lower Stress bar from Techtonics Tuning and I can't hardly wait to install that to stiffen the chassis and improve handling. So, if the car makes it to the gas station, then I know it will be prolly good enough to think about getting it liscenced and insured. I'll put an in-transit sign in it so that it can make it there without the Police giving me problems. It's a real blast to drive with my base ball shift knob, tarzaan horn, and new/used engine.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Bump


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

Bump what? A discussion about handling on a car that doesn't even run?

If you insist on bumping this absurd thread, at least post pictures of this race car.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Anony00GT said:


> Bump what? A discussion about handling on a car that doesn't even run?
> 
> If you insist on bumping this absurd thread, at least post pictures of this race car.


Did you read my past four posts? I said *I need assistance with the transmission mount bolts.* It's difficult to get to with a wrench and a socket.

Then back about five or six of my posts ago I said that the installation of the engine was a success and the car drove around the block.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected] Parts said:


> Well as Brian said...........
> Where are the pictures of the engine bay of this Jem ..............with your fine craftsmanship to detail?:heart:


A picture of the engine bay would look like a picture of any other engine bay, you'd see my AEM cold air intake, the missing A/C components, and a polished intake manifold.

I said *I need assistance with the transmission mount bolts.* It's difficult to get to with a wrench and a socket.


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

pooisgood2 said:


> A picture of the engine bay would look like a picture of any other engine bay


I have a feeling this one is special. Pics!



pooisgood2 said:


> I said *I need assistance with the transmission mount bolts.* It's difficult to get to with a wrench and a socket.


Here is a resource that might help with the transmission mount bolts.

Jason


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

"Here is a resource that might help with the transmission mount bolts.

Jason"

I can't get to my bolts because the electrical wires are in the way, and they don't move. I can't get below them because the mount has metal that won't allow me to twist a wrench or socket.


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

Well, post up some pictures of this quagmire so we may see what you see.

I, for one, find it hard to believe that you swapped a whole engine, yet can't get to the trans mount bolts.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Anony00GT said:


> Well, post up some pictures of this quagmire so we may see what you see.
> 
> I, for one, find it hard to believe that you swapped a whole engine, yet can't get to the trans mount bolts.


Well, my car still won't work, so I ordered an alternator from a VR6 for it. It seems bigger. Will it work? The guy I got it from said it will. 

Pictures-- I have no cellphone to take pictures with.

Yeah, that's the truth. I may get a half-inch extension and I will use that with the deal that is used for angles, that with my sockets and ratchet should do the job.


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## [email protected]_Parts (Aug 3, 2014)

This threads existence is the shear inherent problem the Vortex embraces...........:heart:


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

[email protected]_Parts said:


> This threads existence is the shear inherent problem the Vortex embraces...........:heart:


It's so bad it's good. I'm convinced it's performance art, like the Mall Ninja.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

So I put the new/used/refurbished alternator in and the car still misfires. That's a new/used engine and it's harness. I'm contemplating taking it to a professional, but I too think that if I'm patient that I can tackle this problem myself.

UPDATE: I got one bolt out of the transmission mount and soon will install the new BFI SII bushings.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Soon, I will be able to one of my last three upgrades: final drive, coil overs, and nitrous oxide.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Soon, I will be able to one of my last three upgrades: final drive, coil overs, and nitrous oxide.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

I've run out of things to replace for a misfire.


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

Time to see that professional then I guess.


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## [email protected]_Parts (Aug 3, 2014)

I have a professional solution and idea.............


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## RichardSEL (Apr 5, 2010)

Just look at what they're crushing <cry> :facepalm:


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

It will be mid/late September if I take it to a professional. I think if I search the internet a bit that I can solve the misfire.


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## [email protected]_Parts (Aug 3, 2014)

Yeah the crusher!

or

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bmLHAPzsANw

With the nitrous and all the mods planned............ it ought to have muscles like this guy did.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Engine-misfires.com said that a noid light would tell if my fuel injectors were stuck open or closed which would help solve the misfire if the problem was in the fuel injectors' electronics.


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

:facepalm:

:screwy: :banghead:


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## FahrvergnugenRado (Mar 17, 2009)

*00 cabrio no spark*

I need help..my cabby has no spark..its not the wires coil plugs cam or crank sensor, not ecm and not any fuses. What it wrong with it?


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## [email protected]_Parts (Aug 3, 2014)

Come on lets get in the spirit...............:heart:

The final solution!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2zwNS3DUq7Q


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

FahrvergnugenRado said:


> I need help..my cabby has no spark..its not the wires coil plugs cam or crank sensor, not ecm and not any fuses. What it wrong with it?


You might want to check the grounds, battery, and alternator.


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## [email protected]_Parts (Aug 3, 2014)

It's always best to cut the long way not across with a good sharp razor blade......... when cutting vacuum hose for anti chafe.

Have you checked the bumper fluid, I think it needs a change.........?


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Well I will soon upgrade my car. First I will get a noid light to solve my misfire problem.

Then, I want to upgrade my suspension and I'm a bit lost I don't know what to choose. Here are two options:

http://store.blackforestindustries.com/pwcokitmk4.html

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291212422330?_trksid=p2055359.m2763.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Something adjustable fully would be nice. Dampning, camber, caster and toe, but the price needs to be considered too, so i don't quite know yet.


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## ElSupremo (Mar 22, 2012)

I can't believe this thread is still kicking around. The only thing that makes it amusing are comments by Policeman Jack (he used to deliver pizza, but I digress...:laugh


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

A whole new engine yet the misfire issue remains. Surprise surprise .

Can we black hole this thread now?


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Well gentlemen, I see that you have given up giving advise. This is bonus time. Anything that I do with my car now is for my own enjoyment.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Something adjustable fully would be nice. Dampening, camber, caster and toe, but the price needs to be considered too, so i don't quite know yet.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Street-Edge...05&prg=11353&rk=2&rkt=6&sd=281485810317&rt=nc

If you know any good deals for good suspension let me know please.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Something adjustable fully would be nice. Dampening, camber, caster and toe, but the price needs to be considered too, so i don't quite know yet.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Street-Edge-...85810317&rt=nc

If you know any good deals for good suspension let me know please.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Two years, many parts and a new/used engine. Still my car has a misfire, with many posts to aide me in fixing it. I hope noid light will help me aid in fixing the misfire. Does anyone else have any ideas?



[email protected]_Parts said:


> Please explain how links in eBay to struts are related to a repair or use with VCDS............. since you cried in the PM..........?
> 
> I respectfully request BLACK HOLE!
> 
> ...


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected]_Parts said:


> Post a new scan and misfire blocks please.......
> 
> 0x01-08-015-016


I did a scan the last time that I ran the car and the numbers were the same as before and the car hasn't ran since then. The scan is identical to the last scans. The problem is the same problem of a misfire.

This is a link to a suspension set that has 5k/6k spring rates, which I don't know how stiff that means, and dampning adjustable.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-JSK-JDM...:2004|Model:Jetta&hash=item58b9f529b2&vxp=mtr

-or-

http://www.ebay.com/itm/310404594294?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

for more money, this set is camber and dampning adjustable, how much camber and how that camber means, I don't know.

And I'm still working on getting a noid light.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

After looking up that with spring rates that 1k= 56lbs, I pondered that perhaps all I want are springs. I'm currently searching for 7k springs. I found some 5k/6k suspensions, but perhaps I want 7k springs. Do you know where I can find springs?


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

This has to be a professional troll. No way this is real. Lock it up.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

[email protected]_Parts said:


> WTF does spring rates have to do with misfires.....?
> 
> Gozer please black hole this thread, move or lock........





Anony00GT said:


> This has to be a professional troll. No way this is real. Lock it up.


This is my thread and I post what I like.

While my car has been out of comission for two years, I think it's ok to brainstorm the future. Maybe I should move it. How can I move my thread?


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

[email protected]_Parts said:


> I agree with Brian..........I don't think this thread has any value other than what you shouldn't do.........
> 
> Replace engine to solve misfire.......really?


No Jack. It's more like replace engine to NOT solve misfire 

Then again, that assumes there was ever an actual car or engine involved in the first place.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

The darn eBay sellers won't respond to my questions about the JSK coilovers so the won't sell to me. The other coilovers lower my car shock possibly will crush my exhaust. Do u know any good coilovers that won't lower my car?

Otherwise essentially I will move on to the final drive issue. I will post a question about fit ment do u have experience w final drives or transmissions?

Soon to get a low profile 5/8 in socket to release my transmission mount.


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## fritznbud (Dec 24, 2014)

Too Much!!and WOW! I've never read through a whole thread like this one...Do you ride your bike or carry your lunch to school?


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Hi,

I've got free time now so I'm gunna get my care working. It missfires. Apparently when a misfire happens u re rout the ground. I did this and it still missfires. I'll solve this problem myself to save money on labor costs. What should I do?

I message sellers on the internet of noid lights. I see noid lights check if injectors get electricity but nobody knows if they test my cars injectors. Some say Bosch but idk if I should risk the purchase just on that info. What should I do?


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

I started the car today. It seems like it would be pretty special if it didn't misfire. So I'm gunna study and see what I can achieve and drive it around.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Here's my ranked list of potential culprits causing my misfire

1. Maf sensor
2. Fuel pressure/pump
3. Timing


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

I read in a forum that the tamper proof screws for the MAF sensor were t-25 size but this didn't fit so I got a t-20 and I will soon try this pull the sensor from the housing and see what I can learn.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

I read on a forum that the maf sensor screws were t-25 they re not and t-20 either. They are star 5 head while torx is star 6 head. So I ordered a new maf housing and sensor off eBay. So when I install that I'll know if the sensor was my misfire culprit and if it was I will drive my car.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

While I wait for my maf sensor to arrive I got my transmission mount off. There were holes in the plastic protecting the wires so I was able to get to the bolts. I couldn't get the t mount apart so I called and emailed black forest industries because they r whom I got the stage ii inserts from.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

So bfi told me to drill the four rivets out to get the transmission mount out. I installed the stage ii polyurethane inserts and ran the engine a bit and enjoyed it. Still misfireing randomly throughout the rpm band w no torque. It will not drive. It revs up then sputters and stays there a bit. It starts and runs. So soon the maf sensor arrives and I will run it w that and hopefully it drives.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

I replaced the maf sensor and the car continued to misfire. Possibly the fuel pump is bad. I'm unsure I'm going to study fix it and get my car driving well.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

I may have come up w a plan that will get my car running and allow me to acheive my goals. I may get a different engine code engine and lose my BBW. Will another fit my EGT transmission code? 

Then probably a harness for the engine and an ecu. I can chip tune the ecu and get a camshaft. Then it's sell my two engines harness and ecus and use that money to get my final three upgrades to finish my project.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

I didn't find that helpful

So lots has happened since the last time I checked in. I decided before I do something drastic like swap engines again I'd have a professional look at it and he suggested the fuel pump was bad. I have removed it. Now BBWs have fancy fuel pumps with apparently the regulator in the pump whatever it's super special and stupid expensive like $600-700. So that's redicoulous I got a fuel pressure gauge and a universal in line pump on the way in the mail. It puts out a claimed 40 psi which to my calculations is what around my car require s. So this will get my car going. Then suspension NOS and a final drive upgrades and the car is finished and on to the dream car a Lancia Stratos kit car. I've learned so much.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Ok this thread has now passed three years. I'll get my car driving soon I'm sure. 

So I ordered one fuel pump and it put out way more than 40 psi and the next one I ordered did too even though they both claimed to be 40 psi pumps. So I need to use a regulator. So 

The BBW fuel tank is metal and is different than the standard. It has no hole for a fuel return. I calculated that it would be impractical to use the tank so today in eight hours the tank is removed and is now for sale. If u want my BBW fuel tank call 4023661374 or email [email protected]. It weighs 40 lbs. I believe that I have slimmed my car down approx 300 lbs. that will make it performs better. 

So I will put a fuel cell in and get my car running then continue with my scheduled mods of suspension NOS and a final drive then the car is Finnished.


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## pooisgood2 (May 12, 2010)

Fuel system totally altered. That taught me lots. 5 gallon fuel cell where the passenger seat used to be. Many fittings ordered installed. One fuel pressure regulator didn't return gas to the tank so the next one did. The components are easy to get to should something malfunction. So the car runs now seemingly well. I can see about getting this thread recategorized. It was misfortunate that what was the issue was the last possible thing that I checked so much extra work like three years of problem solving. Now I have many replacement parts including 4 coil packs. So I left the rear axel apart and off of my vehicle bc my next modification is the suspension which will come from my tax refund. I have yet to drive it and the engine runs well and then I will look to choose to focus on the final drive or NOS. then this project is finished. Then I can eventually build my Lancia Stratos kit car


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