# ISO feedback for upgrading my sound system (MKVI GTI "Premium 8" sounds like poop)



## whatthefunk (Nov 26, 2012)

Hi, everyone! I am the new owner of a MK6 GTI and so far my only gripe with this fine car is the stock "Premium 8" system, which sounds pretty bad. I thought about cleaning up the RNS 315 with a processor and/or re-coding the frequency response to "skoda" or "dynaudio" but I'm skeptical of that approach and would rather just start with a clean signal, i.e. aftermarket HU. I don't care about losing touch screen, nav and what not. I just want to improve the SQ as much as possible for around $1k. Will plan on selling OEM HU for ~400. 

I already have an uberstealth box w woofer and amp bought from another vortex member, which is not yet installed. I'm thinking about doing something along these lines... 


Replace OEM w/ single DIN Pioneer 80PRS HU
Uberstealth sub w/ amp in trunk
Morel Tempo 6 splits in front doors w/ Dynamat (powered by external amp)
4 Ch class D amp under seat
Keep OEM rear speakers (could be powered by HU speaker leads, while bridging amp for more power up front)

I'm debating whether to go active (80PRS in "network mode") or not. I used this HU in my previous car (Civic Si) in standard mode. If ACTIVE, would need to rewire the front AND REAR speakers. Would not use the Morel passive x-overs. Not sure if it makes sense to open up the rear doors without replacing those drivers at that point. If NOT ACTIVE, just install Morel passive x-overs in front doors.

I'm also wondering if my my first step should just be replacing the HU and adding the stealthbox sub, in order to see how the OEM speakers sound with a clean source and sub-bass re-routed to the sub. Then, if I'm still not satisfied, phase 2 would be to upgrade the front component speakers and amp them.

I have no first hand experience with these cars, other than hearing how crappy the "Premium 8" sounds in mine. So, please tell me your me thoughts, feedback, suggestions. Thanks!

BTW, I listen to rock, indie pop, and electronic music.

My tentative shopping list below:

Product	|	Total cost	
Head Unit - Pioneer DEH-80PRS	|	$255	
Single DIN HU Kit	|	$40	
Wiring Harness	|	$14	
VAG-Com Adapter for steering control, etc.	|	$90	from Enfig
Extra VW door clips	|	$10	
Speakers (Front splits) - Morel - Tempo 6 - 6.5" 2 Way Component	|	$200	(new; eBay)
Dynamat Xtreme Door Kit + Tape + Roller	|	$90	(for front doors)
Amp	- Alpine MRX-F35 4-channel (55W x 4 @ 4 Ohm | 170 x2)	|	$153	
2 Amp wiring kits (2)	- nuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit	|	$70	
Uberstealth Box + Pioneer shallow mt sub + RF Punch Amp ~300W RMS	|	$240 (used; already purchased)
Total	parts cost =	$1,162


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## rizajj (Feb 6, 2014)

why not recode to Dynaudio and replace the factory amp? That might be enough to try first and then proceed from there. I'm pretty happy with how the RNS-315 sounds when recoded to Dynaudio and used with an external amp.


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## whatthefunk (Nov 26, 2012)

Hi rizajj, It's funny - I just replied to you in that other thread about trying that very thing... the more I think about it, that does seem like a logical first step. Btw, where are you located if you don't mind my asking?



rizajj said:


> why not recode to Dynaudio and replace the factory amp? That might be enough to try first and then proceed from there. I'm pretty happy with how the RNS-315 sounds when recoded to Dynaudio and used with an external amp.


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## rizajj (Feb 6, 2014)

I'm the boston area. Just realized that wasn't on my profile, so I've updated it--thanks for asking.


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## whatthefunk (Nov 26, 2012)

*New plan*

Thanks to rizajj, rtrev2442 and others here, my thinking has evolved. For "stage 1", I intend to re-code the RNS 315 to "Volkswagen Sound System" for line-level output, run that directly through a 4 channel amp to the OEM speakers, add the uber-stealth and set my x-overs to route sub-bass to the sub only. From this I expect a substantial improvement in sound quality and I may just save the front speaker upgrade for stage 2.

Revised shopping list: 

Alpine MRX-F35 Amp or KTP-445u "Power pack" @ $122 or $153 (leaning towards the MRX-F35)
Enfig AAI4-VW12 Harnesses (without line-out adapter) @ $55
RCA to speaker wire Adapters @ $20
Uberstealth Box + Pioneer shallow mt sub + RF Punch Amp ~300W RMS @ $240 (used; already purchased)
Amp Kit(s), wires and/or distributor block @ $50-ish
Cost of audio components: $528

+ Ross-Tech Micro-CAN w/ VCDS @ $269 (shipped)
Total Parts cost: $795

Am I missing anything?


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## rizajj (Feb 6, 2014)

what exactly do you need the Enfig harness for? why can't you just splice the speaker wire itself?


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## whatthefunk (Nov 26, 2012)

I'm glad you asked that question. In theory it's just to make it easier to go back to stock (aka "poop" mode), although now that I think about it, I doubt I'll ever need/want to do that, and even if I did, it wouldn't be that hard to reconnect the speaker wires. The harness might just be a waste of $55...so perhaps I'll knock that off the list!


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## whatthefunk (Nov 26, 2012)

I'm thinking about picking up an Alpine PDX-F4 to put under the driver's seat. In addition, I'll have the Rockford Fostgate Punch PBR500X1 sub amp that is already mounted to the uber-stealth box.

The Alpine has 2 x 30 amp fuses, whereas the Rockford has no fuse on the amp (an 80 amp fuse is recommended on the power wire)

I'm wondering what sort of wiring kit I'd need to power them both. Could someone tell me if this kit would be a good fit?

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_69629_Belva-BPK0D-HOT-NEW-PRICE.html

edit: just noticed that one isn't OFC. Maybe this would be better --

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosg...899&sr=8-1&keywords=dual+amplifier+wiring+kit

Can i get away with the 4 guage kit or should i splurge on the 1D?


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## The Kilted Yaksman (Oct 31, 2000)

whatthefunk said:


> Can i get away with the 4 guage kit or should i splurge on the 1D?


From the Alpine manual:


> Battery Lead (Yellow, sold separately)
> Be sure to add a a fuse as close as possible to the battery's
> positive (+) terminal. This fuse will protect your vehicle's
> electrical system in case of a short circuit. If you need to
> ...


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## whatthefunk (Nov 26, 2012)

Hi Yaksman, thanks for your reply! I know 4 gauge is fine for either amp by itself. But I wonder if a 4 gauge multi-amp kit, which uses a single 4 gauge power line from the battery that is split at a distribution block, would provide sufficient power for both amps.


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## The Kilted Yaksman (Oct 31, 2000)

whatthefunk said:


> Hi Yaksman, thanks for your reply! I know 4 gauge is fine for either amp by itself. But I wonder if a 4 gauge multi-amp kit, which uses a single 4 gauge power line from the battery that is split at a distribution block, would provide sufficient power for both amps.


Good question, I missed that part. The Alpine needs a 6 or 4, and the RF needs an 8. 
Lets look at the specs:

2AWG = 33.61mm^2
4AWG = 21.14mm^2
6AWG = 13.29mm^2
8AWG = 8.36mm^2 

13.29mm^2 + 8.36mm^2 = 21.65mm^2.

It _might_ be enough, but I wouldn't chance it. I would go with at least a 2AWG kit to be safe.


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## whatthefunk (Nov 26, 2012)

*How to get VCDS coding to stick?*

Today I tried to to get the RNS 315 to put line-level output by coding the Navigation module in VCDS to Volkswagen sound system / active speakers (sound system) / No speaker monitoring. After clicking "do it!" VCDS said the coding was accepted. But the change doesn't seem to have taken effect. 

I haven't connected the amp yet (need to verify that the RNS is putting out 4V/line-out first), and with the stock wiring in tact, I would expect to hear very low volume out of the speakers -- but it sounds exactly the same, just as loud as normal. 

I figured I might need to reboot the RNS 315, but holding < > and eject doesn't seem to work on the 315. I also disconnected the battery for several hours and that didn't change a thing either. Not sure what else to try? -- any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks!


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## whatthefunk (Nov 26, 2012)

*Great success!*

For anyone who might be following this, I completed the install and it sounds great! :thumbup:

I had checked with Sat-Nav systems, who told me that the RNS-315 can not be rebooted with any combination of button presses and to try disconnecting the battery. I'm still not sure if a reboot ever happened or was needed but I now know that my RNS-315 took the coding for "Dynaudio soundsystem" because I am seeing "Audio by Dynaudio" on the splash screen and I see AC Voltage under 4V... with peaks of 2.8 V as tested with a multimeter while cranking Sirius radio.


Alpine PDX-F4 under the driver's seat 
Uberstealth in the trunk with Rockford PBR500x1 pushing 300w RMS @ 2 Ohm to the Pioneer shallow mount sub
Mini-toggle switch for amp remote turn-on & punch EQ bass knob in the console button bar

Big thanks to all the DIYs on this and other forums and to those who replied here -- I couldn't have done it without your help. Next stop... front door speaker swap.


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## rizajj (Feb 6, 2014)

Awesome, congrats! Glad it worked out. 
You can experiment with Volkswagen Sound System vs. Dynaudio, but I think Dynaudio is a flatter response, so I stick with that.

Pics of your remote bass knob?


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## whatthefunk (Nov 26, 2012)

Sure, here are a few pics post-install...

Bass knob and "mini toggle switch" fit nicely in the fake button bar. The bass knob had already been fitted to the end button by its previous owner. I simply drilled a hole for the toggle switch, which was an easy fit.









Alpine PDX-F4 held in place with 2 strips of industrial strength Velcro. 3-way 4 AWG power distro block Velcro'd to the amp. Not a whole lot of extra clearance for the seat to travel over top, but there is enough. I ran the power wire under the driver's side door sill and all the other stuff through the center console. The one thing I might have done differently would be to route these wires under the carpet to the console.









But as it is the wires are not that noticeable as they just barely peak out from normal viewing angles. 









I used a couple of short wood screws to mount the Fuse to the battery cover.









Btw, a little tip that I didn't see elsewhere is that I found that it's easy to run wire behind the hood release panel without taking that panel off. 

And something that gave me pause, which I didn't see mentioned in the DIYs... the nut on the battery clamp terminal didn't come all the way off as if the threads were flared on the end by design. This was problematic because I couldn't get the ring terminal around the bolt without removing the nut. I might have been able to force it off but I found posts from others who had stripped the nut and/or bolt by doing so. I could have replaced the nut and bolt or tried cutting off the end of the bolt but I just ended up using a spade terminal instead of the ring terminal and that seems to be good enough.


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