# Syncro converion in A2 chassis, all you need to know



## phatvr6 (Nov 13, 2001)

First of all, take a look in your boot. this is the panel you will be removing.








And replacing with this (amongst a few other bits which I'll show you later). I was lucky enough to buy this one, the very last one available in the UK brand new from Skipton VW for about £80. It is now discontinued. to get one you'd have to buy a Golf or Jetta syncro (same panel) or (God forbid) a Rallye and cut the shell up.
























The boot floor is about 4" higher than the stock early corrado one, about 2.5" higher that the later corrado one. Reason being, to facilitate the fitment of an integral rear crossmember (not shown), which not only gives the diff something to hang off, it also acts as a rear strut brace and stiffens the back of the car up. It's also raised to allow the fitment of the much taller syncro fuel tank, as the diff is naw taking up some of the space where the original tank was.

You'll need one of these, along with it's associated wiring loom and holder and connectors. I got this out of a Jetta Syncro I scrapped.








which is the freewheel lock controller. It basically controlles the valve onthe back of the diff which enables you to use the 4wd in reverse. Relay 83 .


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## phatvr6 (Nov 13, 2001)

I sheeted the car up with (fire retardent) blankets to stop the windows getting wrecked from the grinding sparks.








Take a good long look at the boot floor, this is the last time you'll see it in there!








This is just the bulk of the floor roughly cut out, keeping away from the chassis legs. just to get the bulk of the material out so I can actualy stand up in the car and trim away at the edges. It looks like a lot of work, but belive me, it took 15 mins, and there is still another day's work in there before I can even think about fitting the syncro one.








Had a bit of bother with this, the reinforced sections as found on the later and all VR6 shells. it's 3mm thick plate, and tough as hell to cut. but once removed, ther'es just the stock early corrado/mk2 golf type floor behind it


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## phatvr6 (Nov 13, 2001)

The old floor is just about out now. this reinforced sections were an absoulte swine to remove. I wore out my grinder and used 10 cutting discs over the last 2 days getting it all out.
















I've actually got all the floor out now, the front and rear edges are both prepped up, and the OS chassis leg is marked out ready to be cut down, and drilled through ready for plug welding (as I haven't got a spot welder).
I've noticed that on the corrado there is a stiffening rib int he rear chassis leg, that the mk2 doesn't have, so I'm going to have to unpick this from the inside of the chassis leg (drill out the spot welds) so I can slide the new panel in between them, you'll see what I meant when I post up some new pics tomorrow.
If you're wondering what the hole in the OS inner arch is, it's for the breather pipe on the top of the fuel tank. I'll have to weld this up and cut a new one higher up for the syncro tank.
So, sorry I can't show you any more up to date pics from today's work, as it was just about done as far as removal is concerned, but I'll do my best to loan a camera to take some more pics. 
By tomorrow night it should be all cut to shape and I will be able to get the new side panels welded in too.


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## phatvr6 (Nov 13, 2001)

this is the OS panel welded in to the reprofiled chassis leg.








and again on the NS leg








and here's the panel in the car.








and here's the nice snug fit inside the car, note how much higer the floor sits








here a pic from under the car, note theres no x-member in there yet








It was swine to fit this panel, it's too wide and too long. I had to cut about 15mm off the whole back edge and rear corners. Just done roughly for now so I can find the shape, I'll take the panel out and dress up the corners properly before I wled it in








and the other side








so, now that I know it fits I can tidy up the edges and rill them ready for the plug welds. I also have to tckaly the fuel tank breather section, for which I'll have to make a new part as I can't find it listed on ETKA.


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## phatvr6 (Nov 13, 2001)

Floorpan all drilled ready for welding








This is the cross memebr that you can't buy anymore. it has to be cut from a syncro. the ends had been cut off thos one, but I'l sort that out later








And this is where it goes








Niticed how the rear panel, which used to be the back of the boot is now under the car!








Stiffening brace. one of 2 that steady the x-member








Started filling in the hundreds of holes. 5 hours of welding gone into that panel so far (and I'm still crap at it!)


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## phatvr6 (Nov 13, 2001)

Fresh Update
been busy with the Shutz gun and the paint.
the small cracks are just where I was too eager to slap some paint on ,and I hadb't let the underseal settle. I also painted it without the use of a light, so it's patchy as hell. plus it's gone a bit cloudy in places as it was too cold.
another coat should sort it.
just offered the tank up, only to find that there's a bracket missing! I got the cross member second hand, and the previous user had cut the driver side bracket off, I'd just forgotten to replace it!! damn it, it killed me to have to scrape off al that frash undersel (it's easier when it's still soft though )
































all in all, I think it's looking pretty factory. I've done the seams inside too, I just didn't photograph them as the boot is full of bags of new bolts.


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## phatvr6 (Nov 13, 2001)

Time for a job I REALLY didn't want to do, make the downpipe fit better.
Previously, I'd just battered the R32 one until I could get it to fit. Whilst that was good enough for the purposes of firing it up for the first time, it's not good engouh to use on the road for 2 reasons. 1 it's too restrictive, 2 it's too close to the steering rack. S close in fact it was actually touvhing the rubber boot, no good.
So, I made up a wooden jig. so I could mount up the downpipe flanges, so they would stay in position when I cut the pipes out. and it also let me mount up the prop and make a fake bulkhead so I knew wher I could run the pipes without having to p1ss about welding under the car.








it's upside down, but see how the pipe move over to go around the prop coupling? well it pushes the other pipe too close to the rack. I had to reshape the left one out of the way, so I could re-route the right one to be further away from the rack whilst maintaining the full bore size as much as possible instead of it necking down in funny shapes.








simply moving it wasn't an option, as it' was already only a fingers thickness away from the prop.








After much cutting and welding and grinding (10 hours infact) I ended up with this. It now arcs around the rack much higher, yet still goes past the prop coupling with plenty of clearance.

















Last job was to move the bottom section 15mm to the passenger side, so the cats would sit in the centre of the tunnel and clear the prop and the tunnel itself. I haven't finishwd this bit yet, hence the open pipe on the right. I ran out of wleding gas.


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## phatvr6 (Nov 13, 2001)

Got the inner arches sealed back up at last, paint is still wet in these pics, hence why it looks a bit weird on some.








Fuel tank is now in too, after I fitted that other bracket up on the left. note the use of new bolts and straps and brakcets throughout.
















unfortunately the filler neck sits too high for the corrado, and the neck does sit poprerly in the tank, this also means that the fuel filler flap won't shut properly.







but check out the paintwork!
I'll re drill the mounting flange for the filler neck to drop it down a bit, which should solve both of these problems.


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## phatvr6 (Nov 13, 2001)

Rear subframe and diff and prop now on.








slight problem, the powerflex bushes were too small for the vr6 subframe. luckily, I had a spare rallye one lying around so I had to spend all morning stripping and cleaning that. got it on, but the VR6 plates don't fit, so I'll have to buy some rallye ones now.








anyway, the good news i that at a "sensible" ride height the camber isn't bad at all








but those arches are going to need some filling








they can comfortably take another 1.3/4", so I'll go for an extra 1.5", taking them up to 9"s out the back








and, just for fun, I thought I'd see how low it'd go before something touched.








a rather scary amount of camber, and the bracket on the rear arm that secures the flexi brake pipe digs into the rear chassis leg. I may fit a rubber limiter on top of the suspension arm to prevent that from ever happening, I wouldn't want it to bottom out and damage the brake lines. or I may move the bracket itself. interestingly, the bottom edge of the corrado wheel arch already has a dent in it to clear where the brake pipe goes.....








so. camber can be excessive, but as you can see, the lower it goes, the more the wheel tucks in, so there should never be any issues with tyres catching, even with 9"s on the back.


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## MrDave (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: (phatvr6)*

My hero.

Thanks for the posts and photos.

-Dave


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## brilliantyellowg60 (Aug 30, 2001)

*Re: (JustinTheGIMP)*

you need a O2C VR6 bell housing it will bolt up to the G60 trans
or you can use all MK3 VR6 Syncro stuff


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## proshot (Apr 22, 2004)

*Re: (brilliantyellowg60)*

dayum


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## jdongger (Feb 3, 2005)

*Re: (proshot)*

This is something I will have to watch.... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








Jeremy


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## RavinJetta (Mar 31, 2002)

Awesome work


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## Mike Ngo (Sep 7, 2002)

*Re: Syncro converion in A2 chassis, all you need to know (phatvr6)*

holy crap


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## DHill (Jan 8, 2002)

*Re: Syncro converion in A2 chassis, all you need to know (A2sHAVeddubber)*

I know this is a lot to ask, but can you outline all of the little brackets that one might need for converting a non syncro car to a syncro car? For instance, I have two Syncro rear subframes. One is supposedly from a Rallye, and the other is from a Syncro G60 Passat. I have a few brackets included, but the conversion I'm doing is on a mk3, which is supposedly the same as a mk2.
Therefore, since I don't have the Syncro car directly in front of me, I have no idea what kind of braces, brackets, crossmembers, etc. I am missing. Since Syncro cars aren't readily available in the US, I have no way to use a car as reference. Can you categorize these brackets? Perhaps your experinece as you are doing this will help everyone.


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## apr-gti1.8T (Jan 16, 2004)

*Re: Syncro converion in A2 chassis, all you need to know (A2sHAVeddubber)*

sick


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## biggerbigben (Jan 21, 2004)

I don't have the same problem on mine with the filler neck.....


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## DHill (Jan 8, 2002)

*Re: (biggerbigben)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## phatvr6 (Nov 13, 2001)

http://www.dutchdub.com
courtesy of Marcel, Dutch1967. I learned how to do my syncro conversions off that site. you can too.


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## brilliantyellowg60 (Aug 30, 2001)

*Re: (phatvr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *phatvr6* »_http://www.dutchdub.com
courtesy of Marcel, Dutch1967. I learned how to do my syncro conversions off that site. you can too.

as did I 
that site is good stuff http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## veedub55 (Jun 20, 2004)

*Re: (brilliantyellowg60)*

can u buy the mounting brackets new somewhere? has anyone faced major problems with there awd swaps?


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## DHill (Jan 8, 2002)

*Re: (veedub55)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## veedub55 (Jun 20, 2004)

*Re: (DHill)*

lets keep this on top, bump for a great thread


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## Not4show (Jun 11, 2004)

*Re: (phatvr6)*

What are the bushings you used to mount the rear beam to the chasis, As seen as yellow bushings in your picture


_Quote, originally posted by *phatvr6* »_Rear subframe and diff and prop now on.








slight problem, the powerflex bushes were too small for the vr6 subframe. luckily, I had a spare rallye one lying around so I had to spend all morning stripping and cleaning that. got it on, but the VR6 plates don't fit, so I'll have to buy some rallye ones now.








anyway, the good news i that at a "sensible" ride height the camber isn't bad at all








but those arches are going to need some filling








they can comfortably take another 1.3/4", so I'll go for an extra 1.5", taking them up to 9"s out the back








and, just for fun, I thought I'd see how low it'd go before something touched.








a rather scary amount of camber, and the bracket on the rear arm that secures the flexi brake pipe digs into the rear chassis leg. I may fit a rubber limiter on top of the suspension arm to prevent that from ever happening, I wouldn't want it to bottom out and damage the brake lines. or I may move the bracket itself. interestingly, the bottom edge of the corrado wheel arch already has a dent in it to clear where the brake pipe goes.....








so. camber can be excessive, but as you can see, the lower it goes, the more the wheel tucks in, so there should never be any issues with tyres catching, even with 9"s on the back.


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## 2doorV6 (Jan 29, 2003)

*Re: Syncro converion in A2 chassis, all you need to know (phatvr6)*

looked like a great project where the parts really hard to get


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## phatvr6 (Nov 13, 2001)

Bushes are polyurethane, from Powerflex (EPTG) in the UK. i can list part numbers shortly.
all my syncro parts were sourced through dutch1967


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## jman (Jan 29, 2000)

*Re: (phatvr6)*

The powerflex bushings will not fit the Passat subframe. They are Golf?Jetta syncro only.


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## dankvwguy (Jul 24, 2005)

where are pics of the finished vehicle...or is this still work in progress?


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## phatvr6 (Nov 13, 2001)

on other forums
I just posted up the conversion part here as a FAQ rather than to showcase my car.








a pic from last week.


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## Dutch1967 (Jan 13, 2005)

*Re: (phatvr6)*

Sweet ride








Your neighbors will love you…










_Modified by Dutch1967 at 12:17 PM 11-23-2005_


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## crazydubman (Nov 2, 2002)

*Re: (Dutch1967)*

sits perfect. awesome work so far http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Rado.16vT (May 25, 2005)

*Re: Syncro converion in A2 chassis, all you need to know (phatvr6)*

top post awsome paul http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## vr6ingrado (Mar 6, 2006)

*Re: Syncro converion in A2 chassis, all you need to know (phatvr6)*

was this car ever done?


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## NVmyVW (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: Syncro converion in A2 chassis, all you need to know (vr6ingrado)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vr6ingrado* »_was this car ever done?









yes


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## corradosyncro (May 3, 2007)

*Re: Syncro converion in A2 chassis, all you need to know (NVmyVW)*

sweet car dude hows it coming
hi i have a syncro shell ready to be cut up for conversion any questions please ask im in london uk


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## corradosyncro (May 3, 2007)

*Re: Syncro converion in A2 chassis, all you need to know (corradosyncro)*

hi all getting a site together check it out http://www.corradosyncro.co.uk


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## ovens (Jun 24, 2007)

*4wd*

hi mate i'm thinking of going the same way,but unable to get your site up.
i'm in london, would like to have a chat with you if poss.
Thanks Ovens.


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## pileofredparts (Mar 20, 2009)

if you ever get ahold of that clown, ill pay $200 for his address

he owes me alot of money and my fist has an urgent message for him


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## VRT (Dec 8, 2001)

http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12534


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

TTT, more people should read this.


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