# New, Redo, Intake Valve Cleaning DIY



## ROH ECHT (Dec 9, 2010)

*New, Redo, Intake Valve Cleaning DIY Video*

I did a redo of the cleaning with a new sprayer that will be easier for more to use and do valve cleanings for themselves ;p
Much simpler to do as there are no mod's necessary for the sprayer other than trimming down the ribs that were on the new nozzle so it would fit perfectly inside the IAT port ;p
Please enjoy and do often at your own risk(every 10k miles or so):








Intake Valve Cleaning - VW 2.0t FSI
Notes:
1) You may want a second person for maintaining the engine rpm's during injection.
2) You will need to reset or clear the DTC error codes for misfires if the CEL does not go away on its own within 24 hours or if you just want it to be cleared immediately.
3) Some have concerns of a need to change the oil afterwards. If you have this same concern, do your injection within or about 500 miles before your next scheduled oil change is due.
Steps:
1) Obtain a specific use product or create a pressurized method for injection into the IAT sensor port located just above the throttle body. You must have a complete seal between the injection tube, or nozzle, and the IAT port.
2) If using your own pressurized creation...the ratio of the mixture I use is 3 or 4 parts of fuel/petrol, 3 or 4 parts diesel, 1 part of Xylene-NAPHTHA-or Mineral (White) Spirits, and 1part Injector Cleaner with P.E.A.. So, I only use 8oz to 10oz.
3) Run the engine up to operating temps and then shut it off.
4) Remove the screw at the IAT sensor and slide the sensor out of the intake manifold and safely place it to your left away from the cooling fans. You can also unplug it to store safely elsewhere.
5) Insert the tip of the injection tube into the IAT port being certain it seals snuggly as a loose fit will cause the motor to shut off. Unplug the MAF sensor as it may help with its idling.
6) Start the motor with your extra helper and it should idle alone. When ready to inject the solution, ask your helper to maintain the rpm's between 2k and 3k rpm. Inject all of the 24oz of solution (you will likely need to pause the injection in order to allow the revs to climb back into the 2k to 3k rpm range if it is delivering a large volume of solution...a finer mist will not fluctuate the revs as much)
7) When all of your solution has been injected you can shut down the motor, remove the injection tube, and replace the IAT sensor. Also, clear your codes if you decided to do so rather than wait for them to clear on their own.
8) Now start the motor and run at 1500 to 2k rpm for another 10 minutes or drive around keeping it at about 2k rpms for 10 minutes. Following the extra run time...you are done.


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## ROH ECHT (Dec 9, 2010)

Bore-scope pics of mine before and after...I still recommend doing a manual cleaning to others and doing this for maintenance only. But it is your car...your risk.

Before:










After:


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## ROH ECHT (Dec 9, 2010)

This was mine at 155k miles when the injectors were replaced. The shop sent this pic and asked if I wanted the valves cleaned. But to me they were not bad so I said no to them doing a valve cleaning.


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## aznsap (Aug 7, 2010)

impressive.

what are your thoughts on using something like the CRC intake valve cleaner?
http://crcindustries.com/auto/intake-valve-cleaner.php

I'm assuming we could spray into the same port you're using in the video.


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## ROH ECHT (Dec 9, 2010)

Yes, you can use the same port as it is easier than access to the throttle body. You will need to plug the remaining open space in the IAT port that the small tube does not. Perhaps you can drill a hole through a small rubber cork that fits the port for the tube of the crc ivc.

CRC intake valve cleaner costs ?$20?/11oz? Convenient yes, and is:
35% fuel
25% diesel
almost 30% NAPHTHA

I'm now mixing my solution to be ↓ :
1 part mineral spirits
1 part naphtha
1 part fuel
...because a fuel and solvent solution works best for me as it doesn't tend to kill the rpm's as easily as a straight solvent does.


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## bmulder (Oct 11, 2012)

ROH ECHT, great video and information! Would you be willing to write up a step by step DIY guide, as you do it, for this procedure. (Or point me to one if it already exists)

I'm the new owner of a B6 Passat Wagon with 136k miles on it, I'm guessing the intake valves are in desperate need of a good cleaning. 

Thanks for your help!


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## ROH ECHT (Dec 9, 2010)

Is the vid in my 1st post not helpful? I've been considering making another vid to include more options for the delivery of various solutions.

I can add a step-by-step there I suppose, sure.


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## bmulder (Oct 11, 2012)

The video is very helpful but a step by step would be more helpful 

Just have some questions, how much total solution are you using? 12 oz? Do you hold the rpms at 2k the whole time? Higher while introducing solvent? Would there be any benefit to doing this several times over a short period for a high mileage car like mine? Any potential issues with too frequently?


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## ROH ECHT (Dec 9, 2010)

bmulder said:


> The video is very helpful but a step by step would be more helpful
> 
> Just have some questions, how much total solution are you using? 12 oz? Do you hold the rpms at 2k the whole time? Higher while introducing solvent? Would there be any benefit to doing this several times over a short period for a high mileage car like mine? Any potential issues with too frequently?


I will write a step-by-step, yes.

I use 24oz...8oz each of fuel, spirits, and naphtha. A BG44K treatment service requires two 11oz cans injected, so I selected 8oz/each so to be easy to measure. Yes, raise the rpm prior to releasing the solution. I try to maintain 2k to 3k rpm and it does tend to drop the rpm when injection takes place. I, in fact, cut the wand to my sprayer and added 8ft of hose between the valve and tip so that I could control the rpm and deliver the solution from the driver seat. This will show in the new vid. Adding fuel to the solution helps with the reduction of the rpm. 

You can repeat, but I would say not necessary as I have bore-scope pics(post #2 above) from a guy that had 125k+ miles and did this once and it worked well. He was completely stock and I find my build-up occurs within 10k miles.


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## bmulder (Oct 11, 2012)

Thank you so much! I appreciate your help. 

The Vortex is a great resource because of people like you.


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## toplessvw (Jul 31, 2003)

Might have to try this


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## ROH ECHT (Dec 9, 2010)

Intake Valve Cleaning - VW 2.0t FSI
Notes: 
1) You may want a second person for maintaining the engine rpm's during injection. 
2) You will need to reset or clear the DTC error codes for misfires if the CEL does not go away on its own within 24 hours or if you just want it to be cleared immediately.
3) Some have concerns of a need to change the oil afterwards. If you have this same concern, do your injection within or about 500 miles before your next scheduled oil change is due.
Steps:
1) Obtain a specific use product or create a pressurized method for injection into the IAT sensor port located just above the throttle body. You must have a complete seal between the injection tube, or nozzle, and the IAT port.
2) If using your own pressurized creation...mix 8oz Mineral Spirits, 8oz of NAPHTHA, and 8oz of Fuel. You can use 16oz of either mineral spirits or naphtha rather than 8oz of each, but include the 8oz of fuel in the mixture.
3) Run the engine up to operating temps and then shut it off.
4) Remove the screw at the IAT sensor and slide the sensor out of the intake manifold and safely place it to your left away from the cooling fans. You can also unplug it to store safely elsewhere.
5) Insert the tip of the injection tube into the IAT port being certain it seals snuggly as a loose fit will cause the motor to shut off.
6) Start the motor with your extra helper and it should idle alone. When ready to inject the solution, ask your helper to maintain the rpm's between 2k and 3k rpm. Inject all of the 24oz of solution (you will likely need to pause the injection in order to allow the revs to climb back into the 2k to 3k rpm range if it is delivering a large volume of solution...a finer mist will not fluctuate the revs as much)
7) When all of your solution has been injected you can shut down the motor, remove the injection tube, and replace the IAT sensor. Also, clear your codes if you decided to do so rather than wait for them to clear on their own.
8) Now start the motor and run at 1500 to 2k rpm for another 10 minutes or drive around keeping it at about 2k rpms for 10 minutes. Following the extra run time...you are done.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

Looks good. Thanks for the Diy. Way easier than removing the intake manifold.
I have a couple of questions before doing it:
Is there any con to this method?
Doez it affects the spark plugs or engine seals?
What tool for the fluid injection? 
Parts and products needed? Thx


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## ROH ECHT (Dec 9, 2010)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> Looks good. Thanks for the Diy. Way easier than removing the intake manifold.
> I have a couple of questions before doing it:
> Is there any con to this method? I am unaware of any. BG, 3M, CRC, and others all have products, containing these same solvents, for this service.
> Doez it affects the spark plugs or engine seals? ↑
> ...


Answers in Red ↑


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

ROH ECHT said:


> Answers in Red ↑


thanks :thumbup:


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## ROH ECHT (Dec 9, 2010)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> thanks :thumbup:


If you have any questions with your own prospective sprayer creation just post pics and Q's of what you might use and I can help with your creation before you jump off


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

ROH ECHT said:


> If you have any questions with your own prospective sprayer creation just post pics and Q's of what you might use and I can help with your creation before you jump off


Yeah sure thing, I will start gathering parts.


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## ROH ECHT (Dec 9, 2010)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> Yeah sure thing, I will start gathering parts.


A $10 to $15 pump from the depot is all you need other than solvents and fuel. 
These two fit the IAT dock perfectly if you use a utility or razor blade to shave off the ribs of its nozzle:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-1-gal-Economy-Sprayer-1501HDX/203809533?N=5yc1vZc8ra
http://www.homedepot.com/p/RL-Flo-Master-1-gal-Bleach-Sprayer-1201BC/100580000?N=5yc1vZc8ra


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## nxcess (Oct 18, 2010)

ROH ECHT said:


> A $10 to $15 pump from the depot is all you need other than solvents and fuel.
> These two fit the IAT dock perfectly if you use a utility or razor blade to shave off the ribs of its nozzle:
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-1-gal-Economy-Sprayer-1501HDX/203809533?N=5yc1vZc8ra
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/RL-Flo-Master-1-gal-Bleach-Sprayer-1201BC/100580000?N=5yc1vZc8ra


Thanks for this write up. I had plans to do a manual cleaning of my intake valves. I'll give this a try first.


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## bmulder (Oct 11, 2012)

I did this over the weekend, it wasn't too tough for a first timer. I shaved the ribs off of the nozzle on my sprayer and added some Teflon tape for a tight seal in the IAT port. 

The car is running much smoother now! Thanks again ROH ECHT


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

bmulder said:


> I did this over the weekend, it wasn't too tough for a first timer. I shaved the ribs off of the nozzle on my sprayer and added some Teflon tape for a tight seal in the IAT port.
> 
> The car is running much smoother now! Thanks again ROH ECHT
> 
> ...


that sounds good ! :thumbup:


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## ROH ECHT (Dec 9, 2010)

bmulder said:


> I did this over the weekend, it wasn't too tough for a first timer. I shaved the ribs off of the nozzle on my sprayer and added some Teflon tape for a tight seal in the IAT port.
> 
> The car is running much smoother now! Thanks again ROH ECHT
> 
> ...


:thumbup: It really is easy enough. I think the toughest part is keeping the revs up during the injection, but the fuel mixed in the solution helps. Right now I mix 33% fuel and 67% solvent, and it may be easier with a 50:50 mix. Also, I did add 8ft of 1/4" hose to the wand(←cut in half) so I can inject it from the driver seat without the need of another person...as the stick on the throttle can be difficult managing the throttle revs. I will do another redo vid in order to show this. 

Happy to hear you noticed the Diff :thumbup:


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## aznsap (Aug 7, 2010)

ROH ECHT said:


> I will write a step-by-step, yes.
> 
> I use 24oz...8oz each of fuel, spirits, and naphtha. A BG44K treatment service requires two 11oz cans injected, so I selected 8oz/each so to be easy to measure. Yes, raise the rpm prior to releasing the solution. I try to maintain 2k to 3k rpm and it does tend to drop the rpm when injection takes place. I, in fact, cut the wand to my sprayer and added 8ft of hose between the valve and tip so that I could control the rpm and deliver the solution from the driver seat. This will show in the new vid. Adding fuel to the solution helps with the reduction of the rpm.
> 
> You can repeat, but I would say not necessary as I have bore-scope pics(post #2 above) from a guy that had 125k+ miles and did this once and it worked well. He was completely stock and I find my build-up occurs within 10k miles.


how does your home made solution compare to seafoam or the CRC intake valve cleaner? 
would you use either one of those (or recommend either one who doesn't want to make their own solution).

i have a small garage and don't want to get a jug/spray if i'm only going to use it just for this. but getting a can of stuff and using it once in a while is something i can do.


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## ROH ECHT (Dec 9, 2010)

aznsap said:


> how does your home made solution compare to seafoam or the CRC intake valve cleaner?
> would you use either one of those (or recommend either one who doesn't want to make their own solution).
> 
> i have a small garage and don't want to get a jug/spray if i'm only going to use it just for this. but getting a can of stuff and using it once in a while is something i can do.


You can find any of the components if you google the product name + msds. I cannot remember and I am tired of looking them up. I use 1 part gas, 1 part naphtha, and 2 parts spirits because it produced the best results on my valves. Purchasing a $10 sprayer and the solvents by the gallon at Lowe's proved much cheaper than the service specific products are. But yes, you can use them.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Seafoam MSDS
CRC GDI IVC

Seafoam has way more Naphtha, but you can buy Mineral Spirits by the liter. I don't know what Naphtha is marketed as on the shelf though.


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## ROH ECHT (Dec 9, 2010)

At Lowe's, or your local home repair warehouse, it is just NAPHTHA...or maybe V.M.&P/NAPHTHA. It is another solvent, but it is quicker drying and likely has a different flash point than spirits. I get it by the gallon for less than $12usd.

Excellent thinner for oil-based paints, varnishes and enamels
Can be used to clean paint, varnish and enamel application tools
Higher solvency and faster evaporation rate than paint thinner or mineral spirits
Degreases bare metal 


http://www.lowes.com/pd_206531-3422...L=?Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=

I use both spirits and naphtha with the fuel so that there are two different evap rates going on...for whatever reason it works.


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## ROH ECHT (Dec 9, 2010)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fy53uOVeSKw&feature=youtu.be

I made a new valve DIY today in order to show the mods made to my sprayer for this to be easier for one man/woman to do....both valve DIY vids are still on my Utube channel.


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## aznsap (Aug 7, 2010)

ROH ECHT said:


> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fy53uOVeSKw&feature=youtu.be
> 
> I made a new valve DIY today in order to show the mods made to my sprayer for this to be easier for one man/woman to do....both valve DIY vids are still on my Utube channel.


thanks for the helpful vid. do you need the sprayer even? if you rigged up a thin line from the IAT port to a bottle of your mixture, wouldn't it just get sucked all into the engine and over the valves?


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## ROH ECHT (Dec 9, 2010)

aznsap said:


> thanks for the helpful vid. do you need the sprayer even? if you rigged up a thin line from the IAT port to a bottle of your mixture, wouldn't it just get sucked all into the engine and over the valves?


You can use any method you can think of...just need to make it seal completely between the small tube and the IAT port so it continues to run. You need to operate the injection of fluid as well as keeping the revs above 2k rpm, yes. Supposedly, unplugging the MAF sensor may help it idle better while doing this...I have yet to try it.


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## golustp (Sep 28, 2019)

8oz each of fuel, spirits, and naphtha. A BG44K treatment service requires two 11oz cans injected, so I selected 8oz/each so to be easy to measure. Yes, raise the rpm prior to releasing the solution


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## ROH ECHT (Dec 9, 2010)

golustp said:


> 8oz each of fuel, spirits, and naphtha. A BG44K treatment service requires two 11oz cans injected, so I selected 8oz/each so to be easy to measure. Yes, raise the rpm prior to releasing the solution


That is a lot of solvent. One eleven ounce can of BG44k is;
Naphtha 15 - 40% - Stoddard solvent (mineral spirits) 10 - 30% - trimethylbenzene 1 - 5% - naphthalene 0.5 - 1.5%
...range is to protect the product. So, a can might be anywhere between 3 oz to 8 oz of solvent. With 12 oz of fuel to 3 oz of solvent...mine removes nearly all build-up. 

Just be sure to allow the engine to run for over ten minutes afterward so all gets lubed again about the rings etc..


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Isn’t your mix half-half?


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## ROH ECHT (Dec 9, 2010)

thegave said:


> Isn’t your mix half-half?


No, it isn't. Whatever I say in the video, I added text to say disregard what I say and see the notes in the description. I added in the description that I use a 4 part fuel to 1 part solvent solution. I also added a link to pics of a valve before and after using a mostly fuel mixture. So, yeah...go back and look at the video description.


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## ROH ECHT (Dec 9, 2010)

Here's my latest description for this process...I've changed things up a bit:

_I recommend this as a preventative after having the intake valves manually cleaned. You can then do this at a selected interval just prior to changing its oil. You can choose to do this each oil change or every other oil change. I do this each year just before changing the oil with about 2500 to 3000 miles per year. I wanted to show the sprayer-mod of how I lengthened the sprayer's hose and added a valve for it being an easier "One Man Job". Otherwise, you'll need someone on the throttle to start the engine, another to begin spraying with the unmodified sprayer-hose, and then one on the throttle keeping the revs between 2k and 3k rpm. I added about 8 feet of hose and a valve to the garden sprayer. I bring the engine up to operating temperature just prior to applying the solution/mixture. If you have a MAF sensor...unplug it before you inject the following fluid. It may help it run better while the this process is taking place. I didn't do so when I made this vid. The ratio of the mixture I use is 3 or 4 parts of fuel/petrol, 3 or 4 parts diesel, 1 part of Xylene-NAPHTHA-or Mineral (White) Spirits, and 1part Injector Cleaner with P.E.A.. So, I only use 8oz to 10oz...not a full sprayer tank. Again, I do this every year to prevent major build up. The valves in mine were cleaned at 120k miles in 2015. I recommend doing a manual or media blast removal of major build up before doing this. As damage from large loosened bits of build-up is unknown as far as I know. So, plan on doing this just before you plan to change your oil as I do. Meanwhile, keeping the revs as low as possible when you drive it until you have changed the oil. Because some do feel it is wise to change oil following this...so I follow suit._


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Why the switch to diesel? It doesn’t seem like Home Depot sells Naphtha anymore but a substitute thinner


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## ROH ECHT (Dec 9, 2010)

thegave said:


> Why the switch to diesel? It doesn’t seem like Home Depot sells Naphtha anymore but a substitute thinner


I added diesel just because it is in some/most of the direct injection cleaners. Why they add it??? Perhaps because it doesn't evaporate as quickly. Maybe this allows it to soak in more....IDK. It does create a much more noticeable fog bank from the exhaust when doing the blow-by. 

Yes, NAPHTHA is becoming hard to find. Lowe's had it last time I looked. Only, not in the one gallon can...just in the smaller 32oz (Qt) can.


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Just bumping this up to say it really does work. My valves at 95k look pretty decent with 10k-ish interval cleanings. The proof is in the pudding:



View attachment 144622


View attachment 144623


View attachment 144624


View attachment 144625




So this is at 95k. I do run a catch can, no WMI. Semi-frequent Italian tune-ups, and @ROH ECHT's chemical intake valve cleaning every 10k-ish.


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## TimS78 (Nov 8, 2012)

That's pretty similar to how mine looked at 150k with no catch can or maintenance sprayings. 🤷‍♂️


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Woah and no cleanings? Then I guess the Italian tune-up is the answer. How are some people getting really scary looking valves at 80k?


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## TimS78 (Nov 8, 2012)

Looking at the anecdotes, I think it's down to the kind of driving people do. I don't have data to support it, but I would bet that the majority of people whose engines are gunked up at 80k to the point that it needs to be cleaned out do a lot of city driving and short trips that don't allow the car to get up to operating temp. 

Or it could just be random and I'm one of the lucky ones. I really don't know for sure.


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