# Quick rear brake how to......



## MRP2001GTi (Oct 6, 2000)

Just in case you want to give it a try........








Quick rear brake how to? 
1) Jack up the car and safely support it.
2) Remove rear wheel
3) Remove rear caliper from carrier (14mm socket on ratchet and 15mm wrench)
4) Remove old pads and rotor (if rotor is stuck use a little WD40 around the lug holes and center axle cap and dont forget the retaining screw)
5) Install caliper back on carrier
6) Use special tool on speed handle to push and turn clockwise while someone keeps the caliper from being pushed inwards. If the rubber boot gets jacked up back up ½ then and go slower
7) Remove caliper and install new rotor and pads
8) Install caliper on carrier, use blue loc-tite
9) Double check the tightness of carrier bolts and rotor screw
10) Install wheel and tire with a little spark plug anti seize
11) Start car and pump brakes to remove any play in rear caliper



































[Modified by MRP2001GTi, 6:52 PM 3-31-2003]


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## clarkma5 (Mar 2, 2002)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (MRP2001GTi)*

Looks pretty cool http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
What kind of pads did you change to? How do you like them so far?


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## MRP2001GTi (Oct 6, 2000)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (clarkma5)*

quote:[HR][/HR]Looks pretty cool http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
What kind of pads did you change to? How do you like them so far?[HR][/HR]​Mintex redbox, I haven’t gotten on the binders real hard yet so its hard to say. The crosshatch on the rotor hasn’t even been worn off yet. Hopefully with the harder compound these last a little longer and stay dust free. With OZ SuperTourismos any reduction in brake dust is greatly appreciated. BTW I have 38k miles and the pads were down to about 1/16 of an inch.


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## RaveGreenHornet (Nov 11, 2001)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (MRP2001GTi)*

Hey, I was trying to do this last weekend. I ran into a small problem. Did you have any trouble getting that 15mm wrench on the inner retaining nut? Maybe it was just me, but I couldn't get a standard Craftsman box end on it. I was thinking I may need a slim profile wrench to get in there.
One other question: my rotors look hosed. Are you using OEM replacements?


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## cteurotunervr6 (Mar 28, 2003)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (MRP2001GTi)*

i've never changed brakes before, is there something hard to do with the e-brake??? I hear that there are a lot of small pieces in there????? I'm not paying the dealership i work for $150!!!!!!!!!


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## compudaze (Aug 31, 2001)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (MRP2001GTi)*

quote:[HR][/HR]6) Use special tool on speed handle to push and turn clockwise while someone keeps the caliper from being pushed inwards. If the rubber boot gets jacked up back up ½ then and go slower[HR][/HR]​Where is the speed handle and what is this special tool?


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## tulmad (Apr 10, 2001)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (VTeurotunerVR6)*

quote:[HR][/HR]i've never changed brakes before, is there something hard to do with the e-brake??? I hear that there are a lot of small pieces in there????? I'm not paying the dealership i work for $150!!!!!!!!![HR][/HR]​Nah, all you have to do is pop the cable out of the holder on the caliper. Nothing special. It takes a little effort when you take it apart, but it's much easier putting it back together.


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## samc (Jan 15, 2002)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (VTeurotunerVR6)*

changing pads are as easy as cake.
I wouldnt recommend that tool though, its almost impossible. You need the special one that looks like a turning vise. you'll see what i mean when you get the tool.
And you dont have to disconnect the e-brake cable (im not even sure which it is







) to change pads or rotors.


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## compudaze (Aug 31, 2001)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (samc)*

quote:[HR][/HR]changing pads are as easy as cake.
I wouldnt recommend that tool though, its almost impossible. You need the special one that looks like a turning vise. you'll see what i mean when you get the tool.
And you dont have to disconnect the e-brake cable (im not even sure which it is







) to change pads or rotors.[HR][/HR]​how do i get the tool if i have no idea what it is?


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## samc (Jan 15, 2002)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (compudaze)*









ok thats the only picture I could find.







Basically its like a turning rod with a disc at one end to hold the piston and other end a flat magnetic plate to push against the other side of the caliper You twist the piston back in.. JOY


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## compudaze (Aug 31, 2001)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (samc)*

Thanks. I finally broke down and bought the tool needed. Tomorrow I tackle putting on the new rotors and pads.







Wish me luck!


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## fiveodude (Apr 19, 2001)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (compudaze)*

where do you buy the special tool at ?


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## audiphile (Aug 18, 2001)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (samc)*

quote:[HR][/HR]







[HR][/HR]​LMAO


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## mahmgb (Feb 4, 2003)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (fiveodude)*

quote:[HR][/HR]where do you buy the special tool at ?[HR][/HR]​I got mine from http://www.ecstuning.com http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## DLO490 (Mar 12, 2002)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (mahmgb)*

Auto Zone will lend you the tool for $40 bucks, then they give you the money back when you return it.

This is the tool










[Modified by DLO490, 1:07 PM 4-19-2003]


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## fiveodude (Apr 19, 2001)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (DLO490)*

Thanks DLO, that's exactly what I did !!!!! For some reason I didn't think they would have these....


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## compudaze (Aug 31, 2001)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (fiveodude)*

Only problem I had was the piston was extended too far and the special tool didn't fit where it needed to. I just used a c-clamp and some pliars to compress and turn the piston in. After I got it started I was able to use the tool, which was much easier.


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## deisel (Jul 4, 2001)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (compudaze)*

How much to have the sergeant come over and change my brakes for me? Do I need to pick him up or does he have a hot wheels to drive?


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## vDuB01WE (Jul 25, 2003)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (deisel)*

Do the bolts holding the caliper need to be replaced when doing a pad change?
Never done this before, are the caliper's tricky to take off and put back on? Or is this pretty simple and I'm just nervous for nothing?


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## spyTDI (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (vDuB01WE)*

The brake caliper reset tool can also be found at http://www.metalnerd.com, or a partner site, http://www.dieselgeek.com. These are fellow dubbers' sites, so, purchase their tools to keep the vw specialty tools coming. Later guys


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## TurboWhistle (May 12, 2002)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (MRP2001GTi)*

Great Post. I'm getting tired of reading "which wheels?" threads.


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## awwsheeet (May 17, 2001)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (TurboWhistle)*

book marked


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (MRP2001GTi)*

Adding link to thread which contains a list of necessary tools for MkIV brake jobs.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1150875&postid=11013199#11013199



_Modified by phatvw at 11:47 PM 5-22-2005_


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## Borrby-per (Mar 3, 2004)

*The integrated parking brake mechanism*

How _does_ the integrated parking brake mechanism work?
I had a whistling noise from the right rear brake.
I fixed it by removing the pads, cleaning up, adding just some touches of copper paste
and then putting it back together.
However, in the process I fiddled with the piston.
I probably turned it to much clockwise,
because now the parking brake has to much slack.
I tried to turn the piston back, but now it moves strongly out of the caliper when I
turn it counter-clockwise. Should I try to simply press it back in?


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## Borrby-per (Mar 3, 2004)

*Re: The integrated parking brake mechanism (Borrby-per)*

After some trying I realized that the intgrated parking brake mechanism adjusts itself.
My problem was at the handle; the wire had detached itself during my fiddling at the wheel...
By the way, I found the tool for adjustment at the Swedish "Biltema" for 98kr, i.e. 15$.


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## MXTHOR3 (Jan 10, 2003)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (MRP2001GTi)*

Good write up, but you really don't need that tool to make the piston go in. A big C-clamp and some adjustable pliers work fine. But the piston in the rear brake is threaded (ask me how I found that out) so its alot easier to get 2 people... One turning the piston and the other tightening the clamp. Did my sis's rear breaks on her golf in about 45 mins....


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## CorradoG60 (Nov 8, 2001)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (MRP2001GTi)*

Should of put anti seize on the new pads.


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## BananaCo (Sep 16, 2001)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (CorradoG60)*

I am just wondering, for MK4's do we need a new rear wheel bearing while doing rotors? I know u need 'em on MK3's.


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## digitalhippie (Apr 21, 2004)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (BananaCo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BananaCo* »_I am just wondering, for MK4's do we need a new rear wheel bearing while doing rotors? I know u need 'em on MK3's.


Like I said in the other thread..... you're thinkin MkIII.... do you see new bearing races in the above pics???


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## jayrock711 (Jan 23, 2003)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (compudaze)*


_Quote, originally posted by *compudaze* »_Only problem I had was the piston was extended too far and the special tool didn't fit where it needed to. I just used a c-clamp and some pliars to compress and turn the piston in. After I got it started I was able to use the tool, which was much easier.

i've never used the "special" tool. i just use a C clamp and pliars http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 27psiBoom (Jun 13, 2003)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (jayrock711)*

took off the socket bolts that hold the caliper in place, I also loosened the 13mm hex bolts with the 15mm lock nuts and took off the e-brake cable, but the pads are biting the rotor and it's almost impossible to get the caliper out, please I need help ASAP!!!


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## Andrew_J (Nov 10, 2004)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (27psiBoom)*

I hope you got your brakes sorted 27psi. I had to pull the hard brake line out of the two white plastic clips to clear the caliper and pads from the rotor and didn't have to remove the e-brake cable
One question. In the top photo's, photo #3 shows the caliper apart from the carrier. That's where the 15mm locknut and 13mm bolt are located. I couldn't get the 15mm locknut to free. Turning left. My wrench fit fine. The nut started to round and that's when I went to plan B and did the job by removing the carrier and caliper as one unit. A pain figuring out the inner pad was preventing the carrier from sliding and lining up to the rotor. So just to make sure for the next time. The 15mm locknut turns left and the 13mm bolt turns right to remove the caliper from the carrier. On a 2003 Mark IV Jeta 1.8T. I had a 15mm cone wrench but didn't need it as my 15mm wrench fit fine. It started to round the 15mm locknut and that's when I went to plan B instead of breaking something. 



_Modified by Andrew_J at 9:44 AM 11-10-2004_


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## brian1377 (Dec 25, 2000)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (Andrew_J)*

I'm having a VERY hard time trying to back the piston tool back out, I think mine is stuck, please help.


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## Magik Empire (Mar 19, 2002)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (brian1377)*

Could the images that were shown in the first post be added back into the DYI thread. I think a lot of ppl do this repair and would love to see it before attempting.
Thanks!


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## jopr175 (May 10, 2004)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (Magik Empire)*

arise ARISE awake dead thread AWAKE


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## SAWeeks04 (May 9, 2004)

Just a question, but is there a way to adjust your E brake?? I replaced my rear brakes, and now I have to pull the ebrake handle all the way up to get it to engage on even the slightest incline.... and when I say all the way up, I mean all the way...


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## JonnyKuhns (May 10, 2003)

*Re: (SAWeeks04)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAWeeks04* »_Just a question, but is there a way to adjust your E brake?? I replaced my rear brakes, and now I have to pull the ebrake handle all the way up to get it to engage on even the slightest incline.... and when I say all the way up, I mean all the way...

Adjustment is done from the inside, under the center console. Remove the arm rest and center console... the adjustment is pretty straight forward from there.


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## majic (Mar 10, 2005)

*Re: (watsupdu)*

I went to advanced auto parts the other day in search of a brake tool to customize for this special tool everyone speaks of. I didn't want to spend 50 dollars on something that is basically 2 dollars worth of metal. I found a perfect base tool -- Advanced Auto Parts has a "brake tool" that looks like a gear-puller. I cut the pushing surface off, and I found some scrap aluminum in the shop. I turned it down to a circle, and I milled out enough metal to make a perfect fit into the rear brake piston. I'll post pics with dimentions as soon as I can, in case anyone is interested.


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## bigmak (Jan 5, 2004)

*Re: (majic)*


_Quote, originally posted by *majic* »_I went to advanced auto parts the other day in search of a brake tool to customize for this special tool everyone speaks of. I didn't want to spend 50 dollars on something that is basically 2 dollars worth of metal. I found a perfect base tool -- Advanced Auto Parts has a "brake tool" that looks like a gear-puller. I cut the pushing surface off, and I found some scrap aluminum in the shop. I turned it down to a circle, and I milled out enough metal to make a perfect fit into the rear brake piston. I'll post pics with dimentions as soon as I can, in case anyone is interested.

very cool, def post pics.


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## riverwade (Mar 28, 2005)

*Re: (bigmak)*

majic, yes please post some pics and how you made that tool thx


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## priestja76 (Dec 1, 2003)

*Re: (riverwade)*

Can someone repost the original pics of how the changing of the pads is done? I'm just seeing red Xs. Thanks.


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## MiamiBourne (Jun 12, 2003)

*Re: (priestja76)*

bump


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## rally1 (Nov 5, 2002)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (MRP2001GTi)*

Only thing i would add:
it was a 13mm and 15mm for me.
The tool set is # 27111 OEM_LOANER TOOL DISC - BRAKE CALIPER SPREADER from autozone $35
When using the tool, the backing plate slides over the handle end (took me 10mins to figure that out







)
The first side took 1/2 hour the second took about 5 mins (isn't that always the way). And I used a 22mm wrench to hold the tool as i turned.


_Modified by rally1 at 9:39 PM 4-5-2005_


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## Hahnchen (Dec 18, 2004)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (rally1)*

I was just chatting with PepBoys, and they mentioned that instead of using the special tool to compress and turn the rear piston you can... release the bleeder valve and then compress without turning. 
I am going to flush the fluid anyways, so I do not care if I loose all the fluid from the valve. Though can this be true.
Will anyone confim that you do not need to turn and compress at the same time if you completely release all the break fluid from the rear.
M


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (Hahnchen)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Hahnchen* »_
Will anyone confim that you do not need to turn and compress at the same time if you completely release all the break fluid from the rear.
M

If it were this easy, the Bentley would probably tell you to do it his way. It specifically says that if the piston is not compressed AND turned simultaneously, the self-adjusting mechanism in the caliper will be destroyed.
Gary


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## Uber1Golf (Sep 21, 2004)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (VgRt6)*

Hey! What happened to the pics?? The links seem to have been broken.















Could somone refresh this thread?
Also, can some one point me in the direction of a thread that explains this special tool to reset the caliper piston. I've only ever used a "C" clamp for front disk brakes. Never done rear disk brakes. Never done VW brakes either.


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## Uber1Golf (Sep 21, 2004)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (Uber1Golf)*

bump


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## rabbit1.6td (May 28, 2002)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (Uber1Golf)*

Need pics 
I have the parts just need pics to figure out how to do this.

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Boragirl03 (Nov 23, 2002)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (rabbit1.6td)*

anyone else have trouble loosening that 8 mm hex that holds the caliper? can't seem to do it...


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## engine101 (Apr 8, 2002)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (MRP2001GTi)*

MRP2001GTi did a great job with this writeup.
However, I went through and did the Front and Rear rotors and brakes on a 2002 1.8T Jetta this past weekend. I want to share my experience and how it differed from the original post of this thread, all from a novice /amateur do-it-yourselfer's perspective.

_Quote, originally posted by *MRP2001GTi* »_ 
Quick rear brake how to? 
1) Jack up the car and safely support it. *--> I suggest blocking the front wheels on both sides. And you can't have the emergency brake on.<--*
2) Remove rear wheel *--> this seems simple enough, but i had to add a breaker bar/extension to my tire iron to get the lugs off. That really saved time once i figured that one out<--*
3) Remove rear caliper from carrier (14mm socket on ratchet and 15mm wrench) *-->My car required a 13mm socket and 15mm wrench and contrary to many of the other posts, my standard wrench worked fine, i didn't need a super thin one. <--*
4) Remove old pads and rotor (if rotor is stuck use a little WD40 around the lug holes and center axle cap and dont forget the retaining screw)
5) Install caliper back on carrier *-->This seems out of place, but you'll see in a minute why you do this step<--*
6) Use special tool on speed handle to push and turn clockwise while someone keeps the caliper from being pushed inwards. If the rubber boot gets jacked up back up ½ then and go slower *-->I used the metalnerd (Part MN3272) tool, it worked great, i highly recommend it http://www.metalnerd.com . Youll have to move the plate all the way down the bolt on the tool to be able to fit it in there, but it does fit. Keep screwing the piston down until it stops, you'll clearly know when it's hit it's stopping point.<--*
7) Remove caliper and install new rotor and pads *-->The rotor does come off without removing that bracket. It takes a little wiggling, but it does dome out. <--*
8) Install caliper on carrier, use blue loc-tite
9) Double check the tightness of carrier bolts and rotor screw
10) Install wheel and tire with a little spark plug anti seize
11) Start car and pump brakes to remove any play in rear caliper
[Modified by MRP2001GTi, 6:52 PM 3-31-2003]


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## droth (Jul 15, 2005)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (DLO490)*

After struggling waaaaaaaaay too darn long trying to use other methods,











































I have only one thing to say. 
The first step in WV Jetta rear brake pad replacement and apparently all VW AUDI, is go BUY THIS TOOL 
It will make your mama proud and it will get that piston back in without destroying the


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## vw4dgti (Jan 28, 2004)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (DLO490)*

this tool i have used a few times works wicked good i think im ganna buy it since im a auto tech student


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## VR6GTI72 (Mar 14, 2002)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (jopr175)*

Oh man....I tried to do my rears after work today...
Friggin special tool broke and now its wedged between the piston and the caliper. Im going to bleed the whole thing now.


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## vw4dgti (Jan 28, 2004)

*Re: (SAWeeks04)*

that does make sence it seem like it should get tighter not looser since they go threw the pads 
or im i just geting confused


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## VR6GTI72 (Mar 14, 2002)

*Re: (vw4dgti)*

Well I pulled the whole caliper....its siezed







Even with no pressure it wont compress. Yay...I get to order brake bleeder items and a new caliper....and pay for nextday shipping.


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## betw (Oct 18, 1999)

going to do it this weekend. *could someone repost the pics?* got a few questions as per the bentley:
do i need to disconnect the e-brake cable?
do i need to replace the bolts?
do i need to replace the clips?


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## granite statah (Nov 21, 2004)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (MXTHOR3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MXTHOR3* »_Good write up, but you really don't need that tool to make the piston go in. A big C-clamp and some adjustable pliers work fine. But the piston in the rear brake is threaded (ask me how I found that out)

I did the RR earlier tonight, and also "discovered" that the piston is threaded, internally. DO NOT REMOVE THE PISTON UNLESS YOU ABSOLUTELY HAVE TO. If this happens, you will a) make a mess when you empty the contents of the caliper onto your floor and b) add the usually unnecessary step of having to bleed the brakes when you're done. Plus it took me about 20 minutes to get the damn bootie back on the piston.
More about the piston: it turns clockwise to get it "in". If you don't have the super-cool brake tool, and you're working solo, C-clamp + pliers takes a long time. Crank the handle on the clamp until it gets "snug"; grab the piston with pliers and turn CW until it moves freely. Repeat this process about a thousand times, or until the piston finally seats into the caliper. You end up advancing the piston about 1/16" at a time.








Otherwise it all goes as explained here previously. I wish I had a few pictures to go by, but they're not really needed.
The last thing that I would suggest is to lay down a decent "transfer layer" to the rotors. This simply involves 5-6 consecutive cycles of decelerating from 60mph to 10mph. I do the first few cycles with *decent* brake pressure, then the last ones where the ABS kicks in. After the last cycle, drive around for 10-15 minutes to let everything cool off. This process transfers a layer of pad mat'l onto the rotor and establishes a nice smooth surface from the get-go.
Didn't touch the e-brake
Didn't replace the two bolts
Used the old "clips"


_Modified by granite statah at 8:27 PM 11-6-2005_


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## Varrr6 (Jan 16, 2002)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (granite statah)*

This thread needs some pictures







So... I took some this weekend when i changed my brother's rear rotors and pads. 
What you'll see when you remove the wheel. After getting comfy with how everything looks here, remove the carrier bolts with a 13mm socket, using vice grips to keep the other side of the bolt from spinning:








After you've got the carrier bolts out, wiggle the caliper and it will start to loosen it's grip on the pads. It took me a little effort to slide it off the pads. Here's what you'll see when you've got the caliper off:








Remove the brakes pads and rotor (rotor still on in this photo), and then reinstall the caliper so you can use the tool to compress the piston:








Speaking of the tool, I went to Autozone and rented it for free:








Two pics of the tool in action:
















Old and new rotors / pads (make sure you wipe off the new rotor with some brake cleaner before installing:








Check out how badly worn the drivers side inner pad was:
























All finished (the smudges are actually on my camera lens, which was quite dirty after wrenching around for an hour or so):


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## oldscratch (Feb 15, 2006)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (Varrr6)*

Easy as pie, I ordered the caliper tool from ecstuning for 34.99. I had to buy a jack and two stands which were 35 bucks from sears, the pads of course and I still beat the dealerships' price of 350$ to replace the pads. Great diy thanks.


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## vinnyqua (Nov 12, 2004)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (jopr175)*

any possibilities to have the pictures back up??? the pictures dont come up...


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## raptor (Oct 26, 2001)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (MRP2001GTi)*

To all the folks who are saying this is hard, it was the total opposite. The only thing is please ensure that you get the tool to push the Piston back. If you live in Canada go to any Canadian Tire and you can rent it for free, all you have to do it put down $189 deposit. When you return the tool they give your money back. It literally took 20 minutes per side at the most. I guess when you have the right tools and useful information for the job everything works out fine....Also if you are in Toronto got to FRISCO for all your parts. He is the best and the cheapest. Google "Frisco Toronto" he has 3 stores. 
Thanks for all the helpful info Gents..... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by raptor at 8:27 AM 6-5-2006_


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## Varrr6 (Jan 16, 2002)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (vinnyqua)*

my pics not good enough?








after your first time, this job takes about 10 minutes. i did a 2.0 the other night in 30 minutes with cleanup and everything.

_Quote, originally posted by *vinnyqua* »_any possibilities to have the pictures back up??? the pictures dont come up...


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## yjeep93 (Jun 28, 2006)

It appears this post is missing the propper torque values?


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## gehr (Jan 28, 2004)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (Varrr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Varrr6* »_










Instead of vise-grips







you can go to your local bicycle shop and buy a cone wrench they are thin enough and cheap! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif










_Quote, originally posted by *samc* »_And you dont have to disconnect the e-brake cable (_im not even sure which it is_







) to change pads or rotors.

I love it when someone gives a "how to" when they don't know what they are talking about themselves!


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## ColinsMK3Golf (Jun 22, 2004)

How do i Bleed it ?


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## gbovino (May 14, 2002)

*Re: (ColinsMK3Golf)*

Changed all my pads/rotors... must say, I did it before the pics were posted... so it took a bit longer figuring out the rear calipers.
My dad is old school, so he started to grab the C-Clamp... but I was able to stop him and figure out the tool.
Good stuff. Car brakes like new now! (even bled the brakes).


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## 00_Bora (Oct 15, 2005)

just finished my rear pads, damn rented tool didnt work...it would only compress the piston so far so a good ol C clamp finished the job like always...i know what u haters say about the C clamp but u know what? when the tool thats supposed to do the job CANT, call in the reinforcements !


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## jichoe (Oct 21, 2004)

*Re: (00_Bora)*

ok, i just spent the last 4 hours trying to figure out the rear brakes. all be it i did not get the caliper kit from autozone or anything but i did have a clamp handy. if anybody here could help me out and give me some pointers.
steps i took:
1. undid the wheel
2. got the 13mm carrier bolts off
3. removed caliper and got the pads off
trouble part:
4. attempted to compress the piston with clamp but the freggin thing would not compress. i tried every angle possible with the clamp from left to right, down, up backwards...etc. loosened every single bolt on the brake assembly in every possible combination and retried to compress, didn't work...
5. gave up replaced old pads
6. bleed the brakes
7. give up and typing this out
also on a side note the ebrake on the car seems to be alot firmer, only allowing me about 3 clicks opposed to the usual 5-6 or so. i'm sure there is a logical explanation for this but don't know if it's normal or not. please..please..please..please help. joe


_Modified by jichoe at 11:14 PM 8-12-2006_


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## Jubsee (Oct 28, 2005)

*Re: (jichoe)*

I just did my rear brakes for the first time today and it wasn't too bad. The only advice I can give you is to go to Autozone and get the tool. Sorry I couldn't help out with the c-clamp question but I highly recommend the tool. Good luck. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## yjeep93 (Jun 28, 2006)

Just did this today. Once you figure out what you're doing, it's only about 30 min per wheel. Make sure you get the tool!!!!! The tool comes with instructions, it's really not that bad. If you can't get the tool to work, make sure your parking brake isn't on


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## turbotazzy (Jul 15, 2002)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (27psiBoom)*

Sooooo.. just out of curiousity, how do you get the rear caliper off? I'm having the exact same problem right now. It started to come off as I pryed it but I didn't want to screw something up so I've given up for now; will attack it when I have more tools available. I normally use a rubber mallet for the fronts but I don't have it with me right now. I'm at mom's house.








Anyway, any advice would be appreciated. Do I keep whacking at it with a rubber mallet until the caliper comes off the rotor? Worst case, I bring it to a shop that's not close at all to me.








Thanks.


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## kyvr6gti (Apr 19, 2006)

I did this the other day with the tool from autozone and didn't have a single problem, which was surprising. 
I did rear brakes on my I30, and it spent the night in the garage because of a seized caliper, I was scared to death to take on this job again. 
One thing no one has adressed, the clip thingy on the brake pads, does it spread open in the caliper, or close and fit inside the caliper?


----------



## ricerocketburner01 (Sep 19, 2006)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (MRP2001GTi)*

How do i remove the rear main brake line on the drivers side. I cracked it and cant figure out how to get it off any advice would help lots thanks 
im talkin about the flexable line that is connected to the actual capiler


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## chisai88 (Jan 10, 2003)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (ricerocketburner01)*

do you have to use loc-tite when replacing pads, or can you just put them in place, and reassemble everything? I did my fronts last weekend, and am doing to rears today, just wondering if I should pickup some loctite first. thanks


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## chisai88 (Jan 10, 2003)

*Re: (yjeep93)*

its cold out


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## chisai88 (Jan 10, 2003)

*Re: (yjeep93)*

how do you get the caliper loose? I took the two bolts out, and it is still stuck on there, tried wiggling it but nothing, any advice.


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## burton152 (Mar 18, 2004)

*Re: (chisai88)*

e-break off??? thats the only thing i would thing mine came off no problem..you could try taking the e-break cable out of the clip if you need more room to play...


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## BlckTigEr18 (Mar 5, 2007)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (clarkma5)*

BENDEX brake pads are excellent to change to, for my vr6 they were $45 at advanced auto for the back axle. they are also "oem replacement" from what he told me, but they are noise resistant, and have good heat tolerance, and low on dust, but most of all great stopping power!!!!!!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## BlckTigEr18 (Mar 5, 2007)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (turbotazzy)*

when i took mine off i didnt use a mallet, i just moved it around and pulled up at same time, sumhow tho the passenger side one the piston came out and i had to get a whole new caliper because it got messed up and air was getting in, but i needed the new caliper anyways, the old one was pushing the inner pad on the rotor all the time and i couldnt get it fixed. so be carefull not to let that piston settle out, gravity can pull it out in rare cases forem what i have ben told


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## BlckTigEr18 (Mar 5, 2007)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (ricerocketburner01)*

shoul just twist off, my vr6 (jetta 3) i had to use vice grips really tte because the normal wrench was slipping, lines were nvr taken off since they were installed at the factory prob so just becarefull not to strip it, it may take a few min to untwist all the way


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## BlckTigEr18 (Mar 5, 2007)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (chisai88)*

u dont need loctite, if u'd feel more comfortable with the loc tite thread loccer i dont think it can hurt, but i didnt


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## whizy (Aug 25, 2006)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (BlckTigEr18)*

I changed my rear brake rotors (just rotors not Pads). everything was ok BUT after installing new rotor.... tire wasn't moving ezily, it is harder than before. I didn't use c-clamp or anytool to push the caliper. I just use rubber hammer to push it on new rotor with old pads. New rotor was very HOT on my test drive but now I feel its getting better but still HOT as compare to front old rotors ....
anything i missed ??


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## caymandiver75 (Jul 28, 2003)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (whizy)*

I'm planning to only replace the rear brake pads and not the rotors. Do I still need the "special" tool?
BTW..None of the pictures in this thread show up.


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## caymandiver75 (Jul 28, 2003)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (caymandiver75)*

I did a new DIY for the rear brakes with lots of photos. 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3350037


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## flipp (Mar 8, 2001)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (MRP2001GTi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MRP2001GTi* »_Just in case you want to give it a try........








Quick rear brake how to? 
1) Jack up the car and safely support it.
2) Remove rear wheel
3) Remove rear caliper from carrier (14mm socket on ratchet and 15mm wrench)
4) Remove old pads and rotor (if rotor is stuck use a little WD40 around the lug holes and center axle cap and dont forget the retaining screw)
5) Install caliper back on carrier
6) Use special tool on speed handle to push and turn clockwise while someone keeps the caliper from being pushed inwards. If the rubber boot gets jacked up back up ½ then and go slower
7) Remove caliper and install new rotor and pads
8) Install caliper on carrier, use blue loc-tite
9) Double check the tightness of carrier bolts and rotor screw
10) Install wheel and tire with a little spark plug anti seize
11) Start car and pump brakes to remove any play in rear caliper



































just fixed the images with cached images from http://archive.org


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## fugacity3 (Apr 21, 2008)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (flipp)*

Um, yeah, just get a big C-clamp. It will let the piston rotate just fine. If you get in a bind, back off, pump brake pedal just a little to push it out, start over, go slowish.
Nothing tough about VW brakes from what I saw. Only the rotors will probably be very siezed to the hub. if you're replacing them, beat away with a big hammer.


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## neonryder (Apr 28, 2008)

Is there any way to get the pictures back on this thread?


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## neonryder (Apr 28, 2008)

Caymandiver75. 
Excellent D.I.Y. Did you open the bleeding valve when you backup the piston. Does the ABS get affected in any way if you try to push fluid back through ABS valves??


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## synmoo (Mar 31, 2004)

Getting ready to replace pads and rotors all the way around on a close friend's B6 S4 Cab. I have all the tools I need including the piston retractor for the rear calipers.
I've done plenty of brake jobs on various VW and Audis before, but never on an AWD car. I just want to make sure getting the rear rotors off is as simple as I expect.. ie. remove caliper carrier, securing screw and they slide off.. not some crazy design like the fronts of a gen4 Accord.
If there is any advice or anything I'm overlooking I'd appreciate your collective input. Want the job to go as smoothly as possible.


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## hayheezy9 (Nov 19, 2006)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (MRP2001GTi)*

The special tool that is used is called: Piston Caliper Retractor Tool. That is from Scott at NGP. I got one and Autozone, you can rent one there or just pay the 35 bucks to keep it. Before I knew about this I spend so much time trying to figure out how the calipers go back in on my mk2 golf with corrado calipers. It makes it so much easier.


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## hayheezy9 (Nov 19, 2006)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (compudaze)*

I bout the tool at autozone for 30 bucks


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## clarkma5 (Mar 2, 2002)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (hayheezy9)*

I just did my rear brakes on my 2004. Took me about 2.5 hours for both sides w/ the loaner Autozone tool. (The second side went quicker than the first; give me another car to do and I'd be quicker still). I did this without using the 15mm and 14mm (or 13mm) wrenches that says to use...I think that's because I left more of the caliper intact. Probably made my job harder but did save me splitting the caliper into two pieces.
My procedure:
-Park car on level, hard ground with parking brake disengaged
-Chock front wheels
-Break the rear wheel lug nuts while the car is on the ground
-Lift up the car one side of a time...I used the factory jack (I know it's not great) and then slipped a jack stand under each side
-Remove wheels (while I had mine off I went ahead and cleaned the back side of the tire and the inside of the rim! Silly, I know)
-Use 8mm allen wrench to undo the two bolts on the backside of the caliper. They were tough to break loose on my car, so I grabbed a hollow bar from a piston jack nearby (any short pipe would work) to get more torque on the bolt and broke it loose when I put my arm into it. Here's the bolt pictured (without the bar for extra torque):








-Removed the caliper (the pads have the rotor pinched pretty good and the brake line and parking brake cable restrict the movement of the caliper, so it's not easy, but it is possible...just be patient as you work it free of the rotor).
-Used a #3 phillips screwdriver (smaller screwdrivers mean you risk rounding out the screwhead! Don't do it!) to remove the retaining screw for the rear disc. Set the rotor on something soft to not scratch it if you plan to reuse it (which I did). Picture of my spread of tools I was using and the rotor placed on something soft:








-Put the caliper back on its bracket...just finger tight on the bolts will do, no need to really tighten it too much.
-Remove the old pads. You could do this before you put the caliper back on its bracket but it was just easier to put the caliper back first for me. Picture with pad-less caliper on its bracket with rotor removed:








-I went ahead and shot everything with some brakleen to get rid of the ickiness...but that's just me:








-Comparison between the old stock pads (43,400 miles) and the new Hawk HPSs, just for the hell of it:
















-Time to bust out the piston compression tool. Pick the disk in the kit that fits the VW piston (I forgot the number on it, but it was the 2nd or 3rd smallest in the kit) and put the tool together to use it...it took me a minute to figure out that the "force plate" (which is the curved plate with the hole in it) simply slides over the end of the tool.
-With the tool put together, slide it into the caliper so that the studs on the disk are in the slots on the piston and the plate is seated against the inside of the caliper opposite the piston. Start turning it clockwise and compress that piston plenty to make sure you get enough clearance for the new pads! The tool in the caliper:








-Grease the backside of the inner pad (the pad that is in contact with the piston)
-With the piston compressed, it's now time to load the pads. I struggled with 3 pads until I figured out a good system on the fourth one (figures). Hopefully this diagram is understandable. The end goal is to get the ears of the pad behind the tabs on the caliper and to slide it so the backside of the pad is flush with the backing, unfortanately the little springs kinda fight you when you do it. Load one ear into the caliper and then push the other ear into position...when you push the pad back into the caliper be sure to keep an eye on the springs to make sure they're not getting all bent out of whack. They were on my car and it was frustrating; you might have to reach in with a small screwdriver or needlenose pliers and help them along. Hopefully this will make more sense when you try it yourself.








-With the pads in the caliper, remove the caliper from its bracket once again and then put the rotor back on the hub with the retaining screw. I put a little WD-40 on the hub to prevent rusting (do not put too much on or it will drip onto the backside of the rotor and hurt your braking performance!)
-Slide the caliper back onto its bracket and mount it with the two allen bolts. I put blue loctite on the threads of the bolts and made sure I put them on good and tight!
-With the pads not touching the rotor, the hub/brake rotor should spin pretty freely. Give the brake pedal a couple pumps until the pads come in contact with the rotor. The hub/brake rotor should now spin with noticeable resistance but still be able to be moved by hand. Apply the parking brake to check that it works the way it did before, the brake rotor should not be able to be spun by hand. Here's a picture with everything mounted securely:








-I applied a thin film of lithium grease to the face of the brake hat where the wheel mounts to make the wheels easier to get on/off in the future (again, optional). Put the wheel on and snug up the bolts with the car in the air with the proper snug pattern (at LEAST hand tight, probably good to go to 30 ft.-lbs. on a torque wrench).
-When you lower the car, go around the bolts in a star pattern TWICE with a torque wrench set to 70 ft.-lbs. and make sure everything's appropriately tightened.
-Don't forget to remove the front wheel chocks! (I did at first, heh). Test the brakes to make sure everything feels OK and then once you're certain you didn't screw it up terribly go ahead and bed them properly.
This is the method I used to change my brakes. I do not claim it to be the best method but it certainly worked for me and my new brakes are working great. It took me 2.5 hours from start to finish (that's from getting the tools out to start to getting everything put away at the end) and it was my first time doing rear brakes. If I had it to do again I could shave at least a half hour off of that, maybe more. I'm hoping these pictures and write up are helpful to you guys! FYI the pads I put in are Hawk HPSs to match my existing fronts.

_Modified by clarkma5 at 8:31 PM 11-26-2008_


_Modified by clarkma5 at 7:50 PM 12-5-2008_


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## greatmac27 (Jan 25, 2009)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (DLO490)*

that tool dont work on the passat. the piston on the 06 passat has 3 notches spaced at 120* this tool doesnt have that so dont go get one.


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## waynec (Jan 26, 2009)

what do you do if you snap the 15 head guide bolt.I removed the bracket and drilled it out, think it will be o.k?


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (RaveGreenHornet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RaveGreenHornet* »_Hey, I was trying to do this last weekend. I ran into a small problem. Did you have any trouble getting that 15mm wrench on the inner retaining nut? Maybe it was just me, but I couldn't get a standard Craftsman box end on it. I was thinking I may need a slim profile wrench to get in there.
One other question: my rotors look hosed. Are you using OEM replacements?

Couple of comments on the DIY:
removal of caliper requires 13mm socket (not 14mm..there isn't a 14mm bolt on any VW I've ever touched and I've touched alot)
For the 15mm open end wrench...I've ground down the ends so they fit between caliper and carrier area, if you use a std thicness wrench it often gets "trapped" when you tighten the bolts.
The DIY does not mention cleaning caliper guide pins and regeasing 'em with "synthetic caliper grease"...DO IT! If these pins get dirty and don't slide smoothly..the caliper can "hang up" and you'll wear pads super quick..and also get poor MPG and if they hang bad enuff, the heat will fry your wheel bearings...and cost you $$$...caliper grease is cheap (just bought a new tube,enuff for several brake jobs for $3) use it!
Also good to apply "Disc Brake Quiet" to pad backs and also clean a use caliper grease on the sliding tips of the pads where they contact the caliper carrier..doin all this will go along way to preventing squeals! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
PS: a little anti sieze on the rotor hold down screw and inner lip of rotor where it contacts hub will make removal way ezier next time...DO NOT put antisieze on wheel lug bolts!!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by spitpilot at 7:45 AM 1-26-2009_


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## CeeBeeKay (May 19, 2009)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (DLO490)*

It's up to $55 now at my AutoZone at least...


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (RaveGreenHornet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RaveGreenHornet* »_Hey, I was trying to do this last weekend. I ran into a small problem. Did you have any trouble getting that 15mm wrench on the inner retaining nut? Maybe it was just me, but I couldn't get a standard Craftsman box end on it. I was thinking I may need a slim profile wrench to get in there.
One other question: my rotors look hosed. Are you using OEM replacements?
 I ground down an ol 15mm open end wrench just to do VW rear brakes!....Also two comments on write up:
The caliper lock bolt heads are 13mm not 14mm..I've never seen a 14mm bolt head or nut on a VW, and I've worked on em ever since the MKI Rabbit!...
You did not include a critical step..."Remove guide pins by poppin off rubber dust boots just under caliper lock bolts an pullin pin outa the carrirer well"..Clean good with brake cleaner and relube by spreading an even layer of "synthetic caliper grease" B4 reinstalling the pins in their wells and snapin on the dust boots."
VW calipers are of the "floating" design..they "float" back 'n forth on their guide pins as brakes go on and off..if these pins get dirty/dry...caliper "hangs up" and you get rapid pad wear and poor MPG!..If they hang up bad enuff, the heat will cook your wheel bearing grease out and you'll lose a wheel bearing.....$$'s!







Buy a $5 tube of caliper grease and use it.
It's also a good idea to spray a couple of coats of "brake quiet" on the pad backs (unless the ones you buy come with preinstalled antisqueal shims factory installed)...cuts down on brake squeal! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (BlckTigEr18)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BlckTigEr18* »_u dont need loctite, if u'd feel more comfortable with the loc tite thread loccer i dont think it can hurt, but i didnt
 Yah and you can reuse stretch torqued bolts (caliper carriers on MKV's have stretch torqued mounting bolts)...The caliper to carrier lock bolts come with factory applied thread locker..Bentley says to replace em..I''ve always just cleaned and applied a drop or two of Loctite blue. Do you "need" it?..Do you "need" lock washers on bolts?...Naw...







VW puts all these things on there just to give their factory workers something to do...







Thread locking methods are there to add safety and prevent fasteners from loosening during use from vibration etc so to maintain safety you "need" to keep threads that are supposed to be "locked"..locked..make sense? ....Likewise, torquin a bolt to its yield zone (torque spec like "Torque to 60 ft lb + 1/4 turn more") to stretch lock it will greatly increase the chance of a stress fracture if you reuse the stretch torqued bolt!..."Do you feel lucky?"...not every bolt that's reused will fail..but if one does and you crash...was it really worth the $3 to not replace it?


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## gregrsjetta (Jan 31, 2007)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to.....*

Well I did this yesterday and it was really easy. Here are my comments:
1. I did not remove the carrier as is recommended in some places. This is unnecessary.
2. One of my rotors stuck really good. I applied wd40 as shown and tapped with a hammer radially on the hub part of the rotor as I turned the rotor. After a few minutes the rotor just flopped off.
3. Getting the caliper off is not that hard. I tapped it with a hammer (gently) and also pried a bit. It just needed some encouragement.
4. I removed the guide pins and their rubber boots. They were in good shape so I cleaned them, regreased with brake lubricant grease stuff, and reinstalled.
5. Retracting the pistons did not seem to take any force. Simply turning them was enough, they retracted themselves. This seems counter to what everyone else says. 
6. I got the special tool at Canadian Tire. They wanted a $110 dollar deposit, which they refunded.
7. On the inside of the hub, there is what appears to be a square cut gear or similar. I believe it to be associated with the abs. It was filthy so I cleaned carefully with brake cleaner. I left the sensor alone for the most part.
9. Installing the pads is easy. Once the rotor is in place, just slide them in to place radially before replacing the caliper. The little metal clips on the carrier will hold them in place while you deal with the caliper.
10. I bought a 15 mm cone wrench at MEC to use, it cost me $10.
11. I did not touch the parking brake cable or bleed screws. I opened the master cylinder reservoir lid, but no fluid overflowed.
12. I did no further adjustment when done, everything works perfectly. 
This is really easy. Thanks to all who posted how tos!
One question, does anyone know the recommended torque for the guide pin bolts?


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## wolfi84 (Oct 7, 2009)

There's a lot of writing about the piston retraction tool. I tried this simple solution from a German website: a c-clamp and the handy tool that comes with a grinder...(which I used to get the 15mm key to fit in)..http://www.autoschrauber.de/content/000370/vw_passat_bremsscheiben_bremsbelaege_reparieren.php
here's the picture:
http://www.autoschrauber.de/co...n.jpg
This guy has it in a vise but I had it in my hands and it worked well . Be sure to hang the assembly with some wire so that you don't overstress the brake line in case you drop it or move too far.


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## dr_spock (Feb 16, 1999)

*Re: (wolfi84)*

^Interesting way to retract the rear piston. 
I used a brake piston compressor, cube and a socket extension to turn the cube.


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## J.R.Freeman (Apr 19, 2008)

*Re: Quick rear brake how to...... (caymandiver75)*


_Quote »_(caymandiver75) »	« » 12:14 PM 7-21-2007 Reply to this post
I did a new DIY for the rear brakes with lots of photos.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3350037

 
Thank you for that, sir!
I just finished the fronts on my 2003 Jetta. Cake, no problems. Now it's almost 10 pm and I've been fighting with the passenger side rear for a while. Ontario is cold this time of year! I'm giving up for tonight, and seeing if I can track down that special tool tomorrow. It looks like that is really the way to go.
Thanks again for the very nice DIY write up, I'll let you know how it goes.
Jim in cold as a witches *** Ontario 



_Modified by J.R.Freeman at 7:03 PM 12-22-2009_


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## J.R.Freeman (Apr 19, 2008)

Update: I got it all done last night, using Dr. Spock's method of the spreader together with the cube. Unfortunately my cube did not fit correctly, and I had to file it to fit. 
In the end it all worked out, and for my first time doing rear discs it wasn't too bad. However, for those planning on this job, buying the tool in advance from ECS will likely save you some hassle. 
On a side note, Canadian Tires stores in my area no longer rent tools. It may be that they have discontinued this service. The cube works alright in a pinch, but if the real tool from ECS isn't too expensive, that would be the way to go in my opinion.
Merry Christmas all,
Jim


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## cchetlan (Jan 12, 2002)

18 Piece Disc Brake Pad and Caliper Service Tool Kit,at Harbor Freight is now 39.99. 

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=brake+caliper+tool


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## Danesh_C (May 25, 2009)

I just this for the first time and would recommend useing small cable ties to squeeze the retaining springs on the pads and just cut it when your ready. 

I also modified the cube and took only 10 minutes to fully retract the caliper with the cube and c-clamp.

I used 600 grit wet paper and brake cleaner to cleaner to clean the hub and other contact surfaces.


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## udun4 (Oct 13, 2007)

I have the brake kit. Just don't know how to assemble the tool to make kit compress. If anyone has pictures that would help a bunch. Thanks guys


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## petemx5 (Jan 9, 2012)

*Rear Brake Job - Parking Brake Adjustment?*

This thread is kind of old but I assume people still reference it (I did). Just finished the rear brakes on my 2002 Golf. A pretty easy job but, I couldn't get it done without buying a rear caliper piston retractor. Even with a friend helping me i couldn't get the pistons to budge. With the tool is was a piece of cake. I bought it form German Auto Parts. http://www.germanautoparts.com/Tools/Volkswagen/Brake+tools. They were a pleasure to deal with and they had the tool to me in two days (while my car was on jackstands in the garage).

However, now I don't have a parking brake. Can someone tell me how to adjust it?

Thanks,

Pete


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## petemx5 (Jan 9, 2012)

*Replacing and adjusting e-brake cables on a mkiv car*

Well, it seems that i answered my own question. This looks like a good thread for parking brake adjustment info.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3055220


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## CameramanMatteo (Feb 11, 2008)

*Updated Photos*

Since the photos on this topic are no longer connected to anything, I thought I would 'give back to the internet' and document the process to replace them.

1) Jack up the car and safely support it.
2) Remove rear wheel











3) Remove rear caliper from carrier (14mm socket on ratchet and 15mm wrench) -- Mine was a 13mm socket



















4) Remove old pads and rotor (if rotor is stuck use a little WD40 around the lug holes and center axle cap and dont forget the retaining screw) -- T25, and don't forget the little pad clips from top and bottom


























5) Install new rotor











6) Use special tool on speed handle to push and turn clockwise while someone keeps the caliper from being pushed inwards. If the rubber boot gets jacked up back up ½ then and go slower



















7) Reinstall pad clips and install new pads



















8) Install caliper on carrier, use blue loc-tite
9) Double check the tightness of carrier bolts and rotor screw
10) Install wheel and tire with a little spark plug anti seize
11) Start car and pump brakes to remove any play in rear caliper











Hope this helps!


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## radlynx (Jan 4, 2007)

germanautoparts is actually located in NY. I'm in MA and when I order, i get the parts the following day. 



petemx5 said:


> This thread is kind of old but I assume people still reference it (I did). Just finished the rear brakes on my 2002 Golf. A pretty easy job but, I couldn't get it done without buying a rear caliper piston retractor. Even with a friend helping me i couldn't get the pistons to budge. With the tool is was a piece of cake. I bought it form German Auto Parts. http://www.germanautoparts.com/Tools/Volkswagen/Brake+tools. They were a pleasure to deal with and they had the tool to me in two days (while my car was on jackstands in the garage).
> 
> However, now I don't have a parking brake. Can someone tell me how to adjust it?
> 
> ...


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## powerchoke (Jan 24, 2016)

*easy homemade retractor*

I was able to make a retractor tool using the a pulley puller I already had:











WARNING: do not apply too much pressure on the piston. I just kept the press hand tight as I rotated the piston using simple channel locking pliers being careful to avoid damaging the boot. To be safe, I pushed the boot all the way to the bottom of the piston until the piston had retracted so far there was no longer room.


I'm sure it's nowhere near as effective as the retractor tools referenced in this thread but it did the trick in a pinch for me.

cheers
-powerchoke


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