# CV Drive axle question



## AlkaTT (Apr 19, 2015)

Hey all, just a quick question, I have a 2003 Roadster and I am in need of a left side cv axle and when checking prices, some parts site list w/18" wheels and some sites do not. Is there a difference in the axles based on rim sizes? I do have the 18" factory wheel option. Thanks in advance for the info.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

The difference in the axles are that there are the ones that are held in with a nut (early design) and then the bolt style (late). That is the only difference.


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## Alec's TT (Jan 28, 2013)

Which is better?


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

It's hard to say which is better. I would suppose that the stretch bolt design is better, since you're less likely to mess up the threads inside the axle stub than you are to mess up the threads on the outside of an axle stub. In a perfect world, you should never mess up the threads on either one.

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## sik tl (Nov 25, 2007)

Hate to bud in, but I'm in the same boat looking for replacements for my 02 TTQR for both axles on Partsgeek. The question I have is how difficult is the job? I've done coils without assistance, I'm assuming this is easier? Thanks


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

sik tl said:


> Hate to bud in, but I'm in the same boat looking for replacements for my 02 TTQR for both axles on Partsgeek. The question I have is how difficult is the job? I've done coils without assistance, I'm assuming this is easier? Thanks


Just make sure you crack the axle nut before you lift the car off the ground and get a good breaker bar with a 2ft cheater pipe and you will be set


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## sik tl (Nov 25, 2007)

Boulderhead said:


> Just make sure you crack the axle nut before you lift the car off the ground and get a good breaker bar with a 2ft cheater pipe and you will be set
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Thanks


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

sik tl said:


> Thanks


Also make sure you have these or the equivalent in your toolbox before you get started.

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-TT_MKI-Quattro-225HP/Drivetrain/Tools/ES9011/

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-TT_MKI-Quattro-225HP/Drivetrain/Tools/ES2695618/


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

The bolt design is stronger. However the hubs have to be changed as well in order to run them. The hubs are different for the bolt style having a large boss to seat the head of the bolt.


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## bwdz (Jan 21, 2015)

If you have the bolt design, order a new bolt from the dealer prior to doing it, I think it was $12 for mine. It is a large allen head on mine not Torx. I had to chisel mine out, had to put air chisel on the outside to turn it as bolt was very corroded and stripped out inside. When you give dealer the vin they can tell you if it's a bolt or nut.


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## sik tl (Nov 25, 2007)

Boulderhead said:


> Also make sure you have these or the equivalent in your toolbox before you get started.
> 
> https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-TT_MKI-Quattro-225HP/Drivetrain/Tools/ES9011/
> 
> https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-TT_MKI-Quattro-225HP/Drivetrain/Tools/ES2695618/


Need to pick up the 30 socket and an extension for my triple squares I have. . 
Thanks again


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## sik tl (Nov 25, 2007)

Thanks ALKA TT for starting this thread. Good luck to you on the job.


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

@sik tl:

Are your CV joints toasted and clicking? I only ask because our cars don't fare well with cheap replacement half-shafts, and looking at partsgeek, their price of $62 for a good replacement half-shaft sounds too good to be true for an OEM-quality axle.

I generally recommend replacing the boots if that's the only thing wrong. OEM or Raxle half-shafts are the only complete replacement options I would consider at this point. I've heard too many horror stories from people who have used cheap replacement axles.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

For the bolt style: Axle torque specs for non-bolt style hubs : 140 ft/lbs and *1/4* turn 

Use a paint pen to mark * 0°* and *90°*


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## sik tl (Nov 25, 2007)

lite1979 said:


> @sik tl:
> 
> Are your CV joints toasted and clicking? I only ask because our cars don't fare well with cheap replacement half-shafts, and looking at partsgeek, their price of $62 for a good replacement half-shaft sounds too good to be true for an OEM-quality axle.
> 
> I generally recommend replacing the boots if that's the only thing wrong. OEM or Raxle half-shafts are the only complete replacement options I would consider at this point. I've heard too many horror stories from people who have used cheap replacement axles.


Boots are toast. Also getting one slight shift/thump on the passengers side when the car starts moving from a parked position... I'm assuming that could be coil bind tho


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

It's just as likely that your anti-sway bar links are bad. If you're not clicking, then your CV joints are probably fine. My boots were torn for a year before I replaced them, and I haven't had any problems since. I replaced both outer CV boots in August of 2012.

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## G'D60 (Mar 11, 2002)

Some really good info in this thread. I made this mistake of buying OEM bolt style shafts when i needed the nut style. Couldn't use the bolt style unless i replaced my hubs. sik tl: let me know if you're still looking for a good OEM set. I live in Canada and the US dollar is crushing my canadian paseo's these days.


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## bwdz (Jan 21, 2015)

If you can save the factory axle with some boots, do it. I did. If you never took a cv apart look it up on you tube. One side is simple with a pair of snap ring pliers the other end you have to beat hard on and off with a mallet. Clean out all the dirt and old grease. New boots will come with new grease. I got good quality ones from ECS and they were a perfect fit and seemed like really heavy rubber compared to Auto Zone garbage.


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## Alec's TT (Jan 28, 2013)

"New" Axle from orielly's. Less than 1k miles, 1 month old.


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## sik tl (Nov 25, 2007)

Does anyone know what stores carry a replacement axle/hub bolt? What the thread pattern is? Can I use a MKV Rabbit/GTI hub bolt? Thanks


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

Generally it's a dealer-only or online vendor item. No idea on compatibility with mkV GTI...

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## sik tl (Nov 25, 2007)

Found out that the bolts are the same but the mkv bolt is 70 mm vs 77mm for audi


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## AlkaTT (Apr 19, 2015)

Wow didn't realize a simple question was going to turn out into such a long thread. I have the bolt style axle, and my inner boot is shot, I may go for a boot replacement for the time being as it isn't making any noise. Thanks for all the great info!


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## AlkaTT (Apr 19, 2015)

Finally got around to replacing my left side axle, the new one came with all new fasteners, although they were different. The new axle flange bolts are hex allen head not the triple square and the new axle bolt is a normal hex flange bolt. Everything bolted up with out issues. The job was pretty easy, I found there was no need to take the brake caliper or rotor off. The original axle bolt came out with no issues although the threads were toast. I disconnected the outer tie rod end and separated the ball joint from the hub and that allowed me to swing the hub out of the way enough to get the out joint out. I used my cordless impact driver to remove the axle flange bolts, this make it a lot easier since there isn't much space to work. It only took me about an hour and a half, I did take my time.


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

What brand is the new one? I don't like the fact that the inner CV to axle flange bolts were allen. VW/Audi OEM bolts have been triple-square (12-point) for decades. They haven't used allen-head bolts since the air-cooled days (65hp being one of the stronger motors back then...). I'm also worried that your new axle bolt isn't the same quality.

Keep your receipt, at the very least, and now that you have your old axle out, replace the torn boot and hang on to it.


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## sik tl (Nov 25, 2007)

What brand did you use and from where?


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## bwdz (Jan 21, 2015)

I was replacing my cradle last night and noticed a tear in the driver's side boot on mine, I will be replacing the boots later this week. If you guys want I'll take pictures to show you how to take a CV apart (it is quite easy) and repair it.


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Break the axle flange bolts before removing the tire if you don't have an impact. Air impact will easily break them loose without turning the axle making things for easier if you don't have a second set of hands


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