# 2005.5 to 2008 Engine swap | The results



## alwaysdutch (Oct 19, 2011)

So finally I can say that I am done with the engine swap. The emissions were passed this morning and the tag will be on tomorrow. Many of you have done this many times, but for me this was a milestone as I am not a mechanic. Hell, I optimize a corporate website for search engines, which is far different than swapping engines! 

Anyway, I wanted to provide some details on what I have spent, what tools I needed, and where I had trouble in case someone else that is not mechanic wants to do the same thing.

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Let's backup a moment; this project started because I had a P0106 CEL, which can be caused by a jumped timing chain. Now, I have not opened the old engine to see what the problem was, but gradually I heard more noise within the engine, and finally after the CEL came on, and at about 3,000 RPM, It sounded like the valve was hitting something.

As we all know, dealerships charge about $2,200 - $3,200 to solve this problem. Granted that some places are cheaper than others. VW of America is known not to do anything about it once your warranty is gone, exceptions are there if you read some other threads.

So, for starters, make sure you have done your research before you start removing bolts and screws. Find an engine that is at least 2007 model, but prefer to get one from 2008. Mine came from Ebay, which I bought in the next state over for $1,000 with 17,000 miles on it, and six months warranty. Whichever engine you pick, make sure to find out what all you get. Some do not have an intake or exhaust, or are missing parts. You want an engine that has everything on it to make the swap easier.

Make sure you understand what it takes to do this. You need a lot of time to do this if you are not a mechanic, and you need space. The engine comes through the front of the car, meaning you need to take the bumper and reinforcement off. That is where you need the most space. I had a two-car garage and my stepdaughter just moved in, leaving everything she had in there, so it was a bit snug.

Check other threads about the swap. I had the luck that the first reply I got in this thread included a link to a thread for a similar project. (Thanks again to Pennsydubbing for the great pics). There are several folks here that have responded to most of my questions, even when the question was completely dumb.

Now, what all did I buy? I decided to replace a few extra parts since I had to dig that far, but that is totally up to you. If you are not careful, you almost replace an entire car. 

- 2008 2.5L engine, 17,000 miles. Included ECU, intake, exhaust manifold, and wiring. $1,000
- 2 CV drive axles - NAPA. $130
- 2 CV drive axle 24mm bolts - Dealership. $20
- Transmission seal - Dealership. $13
- Gallon of G12 coolant - Dealership. $23
- 5 NGK spark plugs - NAPA. $65
- FRAM oil filter - Walmart. $8
- FRAM air filter - Walmart. $9
- Castrol 5W30 Edge - Walmart. $30. (This might raise some additional talk)
- Stage 2 dog bone insert - BFI. $35
- Stage 2 transmission mount - BFI $65 (black Friday sale)
- Outer tie rods - Autozone. $79
- 2 serpentine belts - Autozone. $29

Tools:
You got to have a good set of tools ready. I have an air compressor, good set of ratchet set with plenty of sockets. Other tools are obvious, such as a hammer, screwdrivers, and torx set. What I needed to buy for this project was:

- Triple square set of bits, needed for the transmission - bought a 9-piece online for about $20
- Tap and die set. Is not needed, but I wanted to make sure all was good, so I bought a set for $40
- Breaker bar. Handy for the 24mm CV axle bolts - Northern Tool $8
- Torque wrench. Wanted one for a long time - $10, normally about $40 and up
- Engine hoist. I rented one for $40
- Engine hoist leveler. I bought one at Northern Tool - $32
- Extra drain pan - $6

Total cost for this project: $1,663

Things to look out for.
Make sure to order parts on time. I had to order parts and tools constantly when i ran into the issue, costing me a lot of time. Order the triple square bits, and in some cases the CV axles and plugs are not in stock. Autozone was not really the answer, so I had to go to NAPA a few times. Engine mounts needed to be ordered as well.

I did not get much help from others unless I asked for it, so make sure that when you are ready to pull the engine, and put the other in, you got some beer, pizza and friends.

Make sure to keep all your bolts and nuts organized. It pays off in the long run. Remember that it will take you time to put everything back, and in my case, I really had to remember sometimes on where everything needed to go.

Make plenty of pictures. It will help you remember where everything goes, and it help others. I was handy for me to have a pic of most sensors that I disconnected.

Store all your parts. The bumper, bottom plate, headlights, grill, wheels, radiator and reinforcement, etc all come off, so put them in a safe place where they don't scratch, and be of of the way.

Once these parts are drained and off, you are almost at the point of removing the engine.

Use the existing ECU. The "Immobilizer Active" anti theft mode will kick in if you use another ECU, which means you will need to go to the dealership to get it synced. The existing ECU is located under the windshield, and has two bolts you need to cut off. You can simply replace them with other bolts.

Clean the engine bay while the engine is out. it is now the time to do it.

Do as much as possible on the new engine while it sits on blocks, as it makes it much easier to work on. Remember that the transmission comes out too. Check the seal and replace if needed.

Once you place the new motor in, make sure to connect all connectors. It sounds stupid, but man, you will forget real quick as you will be anxious to get this thing ready. I forgot to actually "click" two connectors, which threw off two CELs.

Give the transmission a day to "learn the engine. At first all the transmission lights might come up, but after a day, it all goes away if done right. I have the 6-speed semi auto.

Make sure to click every connector in, and not just partially. I had an engine light coming on and all it was a connector not clicked in all the way.

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These were mostly the issues I ran into. Read this thread if you need help. Please ask help from others, as situation change for everyone. Take your time doing this. Other than the two connector issues and some idiotic things, I had no problems doing this. I was not prepared, which cost me a lot of time, and so that is why I write this down. I hope it helps some other folks and I can always add more content to this thread if needed.

Thanks,
Michael


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## Jefnes3 (Aug 17, 2001)

Nice work!

-Jeffrey Atwood


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## PhAyzoN (Nov 29, 2010)

Congratulations! Glad to hear all is running well!


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

thanks for sharing all this good info!


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## dr0pthehamm3r (Nov 30, 2007)

great stuff to know!


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## GTACanuck (Feb 20, 2009)

Alwaysdutch, thanks for this information. I am very sure some of us here will be able to read this and be more ready to tackle such a project.

Good work btw! :thumbup:


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## Anile_eight (Sep 30, 2009)

> Use the existing ECU. The "Immobilizer Active" anti theft mode will kick in if you use another ECU, which means you will need to go to the dealership to get it synced. The existing ECU is located under the windshield, and has two bolts you need to cut off. You can simply replace them with other bolts.


My only questions is to do with this. Hopefully I don't have to do this, but just in case.

The ECU that came with the engine, don't use it, but use your own ecu in the car? the dealership has to sync it to get it working properly? So you can pair a 06 ECU and a 08 engine?


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## wetheitalians (May 3, 2008)

no you cannot pair them.


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## pennsydubbin (Mar 3, 2010)

wetheitalians said:


> no you cannot pair them.


yes you can


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## alwaysdutch (Oct 19, 2011)

Yes you can. Now, it is probably even better to send the ECU that came with the engine to C2 or UM and get them flashed, than replace the ECU with the flashed one. That way you have the immobilizer removed, and you get more power and a smoother running engine.

That is my next step, and again, yes you can a BGP ECU from '05 or '06 on a CBTA engine from '08. I have it now for about 7,500 miles without any engine lights or problems.


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## Anile_eight (Sep 30, 2009)

That is my plan if mine were to ever fail. I have the flash now on the 06 and would definitely go 08+. Good to know thanks! (I am assuming I can get some kind of discount as I already have a flash)?


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## rustlerdude (Aug 13, 2007)

Starting in 2008 the intake manifold is designed differently inside to optimize higher power at a higher rpm. So if you "upgrade" intakes you will notice a bit of difference in power band.


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## JohnnyDrama (Feb 15, 2012)

Impressive. Good work :thumbup:


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