# Hello (7 Passenger Syncro w/ EJ25 swap build)



## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Hello*

Joining your ranks as I just picked up this syncro. I've already ordered the bentley but get ready for tons of questions, because the more I dig around the more I realize how totally different these cars are from other VW's of the era.


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## unimogken (Jan 19, 2005)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

Welcome to the club!
I've had mine about a month and a half and loving it!
I read the Bentley every night before bed.....hehe


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## dart330 (Jun 2, 2003)

Sharp looking Syncro! Got anymore pics?


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: (dart330)*

I'll get some up soon. Van is in pretty good shape and runs well, but has a couple issues. I'd still say it was worth the 900 bucks I paid for it.
-needs a clutch (have a heavy duty setup on the way)
-will need new tires to pass inspection here (ordered some 27x8.5 duelers)
-Diff lock has been disabled, but from what I can tell it's a simple fix if you spend some time with it
-Has some seam rust starting, but I'm used to rust from my a1 background and I'll be jumping on it first thing.
-Has a decent sized hole in the driver side rocker panel, but from the looks of it, it's a n easy patch.
I'm so used to lowering cars that it seems strange to _raise_ one


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## OEMplus.com (May 27, 2003)

*Re: (rs4-380)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rs4-380* »_I'd still say it was worth the 900 bucks I paid for it.

You sir, SUCK!


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## MagicBus (Oct 3, 2003)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

Welcome to the club








I have a Flash Silver '91 non-syncro, but the resemblance is quite strong.


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## Horrido Beetle (Oct 9, 2001)

*Re: (rs4-380)*

$900.00 bucks for a trailer-able deer blind................

Wait until you feel and hear that horrible sucking sound of your wallet as THE CASH FLOWS OUT OF IT.....................................................
that clutch job will cost well over a $1000.00 bucks and the bad news (when/if the guy you found to do the job) - tells you your gas tank straps are rusted through. Not to mention that the expansion tanks on the fuel tank and the vent gaskets are shot and drops 2 to 3 gallons with every full tank. 
Daddy?......Why is the Syncro peeing around every turn?
That grinding noise is your VC and its frozen. Your Servo is shot - no green light baby. ......... Plus the 7500.00 plus labor for that Subie conversion you just got to have. 
OH........ and of course ...You got to get those 16 inch wheels with the big BF Goodrich tires. Not that you'll ever trust the "Piece O Chit" to every get out of anything bigger than a inflatable pool size mud puddle on cement. AND ALL OF YOU KNOW WHAT I"M TALKING ABOUT!
keep a log and please flush when you've paid enough for a FJ Cruiser or Hummer H2. 0% for 60 months - it's free money DUDES!
i know ......... I'm NEGATIVE....... BUT I've BEEN HERE BEFORE.
Let the replacement part hunting begin!!







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Good Luck!
HORRIDO








P.S. All I'm saying is it's a real labor of love keeping these old vans on the road.


_Modified by Horrido Beetle at 6:15 AM 8-16-2006_


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## tdi_twins (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: (Horrido Beetle)*

Too bad we can't ban you, Horrido 'get a Honda' Beetle.
I'm a getting tired of your Honda picts and now the deer is way over the top!







http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


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## Horrido Beetle (Oct 9, 2001)

*Re: (tdi_twins)*

Later....................................


_Modified by Horrido Beetle at 11:54 AM 8-16-2006_


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: (Horrido Beetle)*

thanks for everything you "contributed" horrido.
I do my own work. Basic maintenance to engine swaps. That clutch job is going to cost me what I paid for the clutch kit. The gas tank straps are rusted, and when they need to be, I'll replace them. The ej22 swap won't cost me anymore then the 1000 bucks spent on the adaptation kit and the 300 dollars spent on the donor car that are so prevelant up here. 
If the vc blows up, or if something else happens that I can't deal with, I sell the van as-is to my local vanagon mechanic, and chalk it up to fun while it lasted. I don't need this van to get me to work everyday, I don't need this van to get me across the country. It serves a specific purpose in my world of vehicle needs, and that is it.


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## J_Westy (Nov 27, 2001)

*Re: (tdi_twins)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tdi_twins* »_Too bad we can't ban you, Horrido 'get a Honda' Beetle.







http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 

Ditto.
Ignoring his threads doesn't even work because he keep high-jacking other people's threads with his BS


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## Provocyclist (Dec 16, 2004)

*Re: (J_Westy)*

Horriddo:


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## vanaguy (Oct 18, 2002)

*Re: (Horrido Beetle)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Horrido Beetle* »_ Not to mention that the expansion tanks on the fuel tank and the vent gaskets are shot and drops 2 to 3 gallons with every full tank. 

Huh. Not trying to feed a troll here folks, but I was under the impression that this only happens to 2WD Vanagons.
I base this on reading the "main" Vanagon, along with the syncro, subie-conversion, and vw-camping mailing lists for the last 5 years. Never heard of a problem with the 4WD vents, etc.
So... is this real?


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: (vanaguy)*

to get off the topic of horrido....

first new stuff showed up today


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## Horrido Beetle (Oct 9, 2001)

*Re: (rs4-380)*

I WAS HAVING A BAD NIGHT.....
After reading the crap I wrote and the pictures I posted...........I removed them. 
I can't stay away from these VW's - Looking at a '66 Bug.

NICE TIRES..........
HORRIDO


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: (Horrido Beetle)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Horrido Beetle* »_
NICE TIRES..........


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: (rs4-380)*

started to tackle some smaller things today. Got rust bullet on the bad seams, and fixed the passenger side window, which wasn't working (it was weird, traced it to the connector between the switch and the motor, so I just cut it out, spliced the wires, and it works great). 
Tomorrow hope to get the new tires on the wheels, figure out why the lights always stay on when in the door open position (ie figure which switch is bad), figure out why my temp gauge is not working, reset the oxs light, and look into the front end clunk I am getting over big bumps.

I do have to say though, this thing is a blast. Totally different then my other vws.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: (rs4-380)*

cleaned the inside a little today.
















Also, fixed the temp gauge (corroded connector on the actual sender), the sliding door (had gotten a new lower bearing assembly off ebay), tightened the spring on the passenger side mirror so it doesn't slowly slide off of where you adjust it too, fixed the interior light issue (the switch in the hatch was bad, staying on when everything was shut, reset the OXS light, and finally, got the tires on. Looks much better with the bigger rubber IMO.
before

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view









after


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## jordanvw (Jan 8, 2001)

*Re: (rs4-380)*

looks like the top of the line for '87..with the diff lock, power windows, power mirrors, and the weekender interior.
that was an expensive van when it was new, optioned out like that...
i noticed your missing your passengers side power mirror... do u still have it? i have some if you need them..

ps, remove your front carpet, and shampoo it and pressurewash it! it makes a big difference and its easy to do.. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: (jordanvw)*

yeah, the carpet needs some work. I do have the old electric passenger mirror, not sure why the swapped it out for a manual one (motor seems shot on the driver side too), but either way, i don't have a problem adjusting them by hand either way. 
Interesting you say that about intial price as I just registered the van today and was surprised by the base rate they used to calculate the fee. Do you have any idea what they sold for when new?


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## Jesslop (Feb 18, 2005)

*Re: (rs4-380)*

I almost bought a new '87 GL in late 87 or early 88 and I recall the asking price around $17k.
Cheers,
Jess


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: (Jesslop)*

I can see


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## vanaguy (Oct 18, 2002)

*Re: (rs4-380)*

Looks like fun! Did you put relays on the headlights yet?


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: (vanaguy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vanaguy* »_Looks like fun! Did you put relays on the headlights yet?

nope, wont' need them with the new lights
Took care of the jack problem (my floor jack won't really lift the van). Also bent my bumper back into relatively straight shape, and mounted an old saab foglight as a backup light. You can also see my smokin' new mudflaps.








got some floor mats that fit, and did something I usually don't do, and spent money on a new stereo.








FIxed my brake lights with an old switch I had laying around from the rabbit, and adjusted the reverse light switch.


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## stagger_lee (Jun 13, 2006)

What a steal. Love the blacked out wheels. A must for all vehicles I think! chrome sux. Keep us all posted. things a beaut! Cheers!


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## vanaguy (Oct 18, 2002)

*Re: (rs4-380)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rs4-380* »_nope, wont' need them with the new lights.

Absolutely true until your headlight switch burns out. Carry a spare.

_Quote, originally posted by *rs4-380* »_Took care of the jack problem (my floor jack won't really lift the van). Also bent my bumper back into relatively straight shape, and mounted an old saab foglight as a backup light.

Hey! It's starting to look like mine!


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: (vanaguy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vanaguy* »_
Absolutely true until your headlight switch burns out. Carry a spare.


I thought you meant in order to get more light output. I wasn't aware familar they went bad with just the stock headlights.

_Quote, originally posted by *vanaguy* »_
Hey! It's starting to look like mine!


whoa, you don't say! I actually like you backup light location better. I have a feeling mine is going to get wacked quite a bit.


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## vanaguy (Oct 18, 2002)

*Re: (rs4-380)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rs4-380* »_I thought you meant in order to get more light output. I wasn't aware familar they went bad with just the stock headlights.

Actually, you do get better light from the stock lamps with relays. It almost makes up for the sucky pattern!
But yeah, the switch tends to burn out. You are also likely to lose the electrical half of the ignition switch. When that happens you'll have no headlights AND your heater fan won't work.
Besides those, I also carry a spare load reduction relay and coolant light relay. They should be numbered 17 (or 18) and 42 (or 43), respectively, on the main fuse panel.


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## Green T4 (Jan 6, 2003)

Looks great! Reminds me of my son's departed T3 Transporter. His had the same centre row seats (same colour too).
Maris


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## unimogken (Jan 19, 2005)

*Re: (rs4-380)*

Whooo hooo!
Another conversion in the works!
I just picked up my $600 '93 Legacy last week and hid it in my garage before my neighbors had a chance to complain about having a wrecked car in my driveway... hehe


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## Vanagon-S (Mar 21, 2004)

*Re: (unimogken)*

So addictive!
You've been bitten. This how mine started also...


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: (vanaguy)*

Picked this up this weekend. 2001 2.5l w/ 65k.


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## Vanagon-S (Mar 21, 2004)

*Re: (rs4-380)*

Nice 2.5! 
Looks like you have an EGR valve. You're going to have to plump the feed hose from the front instead of reversing the manifold.
Throw those crash guards away, the ones that are covering the injectors. They'll get in the way.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: (Vanagon-S)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Vanagon-S* »_
Looks like you have an EGR valve. You're going to have to plump the feed hose from the front instead of reversing the manifold.


car to elaborate on why it won't work? I wasn't familar with the situation.


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## Vanagon-S (Mar 21, 2004)

*Re: (rs4-380)*

Your 2.5 EGR is piped directly into the side of the head and is bolted to the intake manifold. It would be in the way if you could reverse your coolant manifold. Not to worry, there are a few Subaru conversion parts guys that make a nice stainless pipe solution that takes the coolant from the stock subaru location. 
like this one:


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

Parts are starting to come in. I'm out of town this weekend but stuff should start moving quickly next week. 








Adapter, engine mount and CV speed sensor from Smallcar. 
Coolant manifold that a buddy welded up for me (there was no egr). 
The harness is 95% done.


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## lucky73 (May 19, 2006)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

You are having a love fest with that van, good for you! Enjoy it ALL


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (lucky73)*

Header showed up today.


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## MrPostman (Aug 3, 2006)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

Sweet http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (MrPostman)*

Well it's out. Took me about 4 hours. Not bad for one guy ( who has never dropped a vanagon engine before) with a pair of ramps, two floor jacks, a high lift offroad jack. The clutch slave cylinder and the shift linkage gave me the most problems. Both had bolts that were rounded/or just a pain in the ass to get to. I took care of the shift linkage after dropping the engine a bit and used a cutoff wheel on the bad clutch slave bolt (which I really didn't want to do considering it's proximity to open fuel lines). Surprisingly enough, the axles, which I always dread, took no time at all. One side I could loosed all 6 bolts by hand (







) and the other had semi decent allen heads, so all was good. 
Even though I have everything for the swap, I don't thing this is going to be a one weekend project. I want to slap some rust bullet on some areas, clean some stuff up, fix some rust, and the tranny could use some seals and the gas tank needs new straps. So considering how long it will be to get the parts for the latter, It'll probably be another week or two before the new engine goes in. I'll keep up to date with the little stuff though.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

Oh btw, the 2.1 is for sale. It's not the prettiest engine, and it does have 200k, but it runs great, has plenty of punch, and a bunch of new parts. Plus the van was owned for a VW mechanic for most of it's life, so it's gotten what it needs. Engine will come with pretty much everything you need for a 2.1 swap including wiring and computer, exhaust up to j-pipe (a little over a year old), 1 year old alternator, etc etc. (even throw in a new mann oil filter). Let me know if you are interested.


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## ken_mag (Apr 13, 2006)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

Any progress?? do tell!!








Ken
87GL/EJ22


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (ken_mag)*

waiting on parts, plus it being cold and dark when I get home from work, I don't have much motivation to go out there and mess around with stuff








Supposed to be decent this weekend, so I hope to get the tranny cleaned and everything bolted to the new engine, plus the engine bay prep done.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

Got the tranny cleaned up today, new seals in it, the adapter, flywheel, new clutch, PP and TO on the engine, and started work on the tranny mounts and engine cradle which have seen better days.
before








after
















I was trying to avoid replacing the gas tank straps, but they are totally shot, and I know there will be surprises when I drop the tank, so even though I got alot done today, I'm not exactly thrilled (those straps aren't cheap either).


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*


_Quote, originally posted by *"CurtisS"* »_When you drop the gas tank, give the coolant pipes a good inspection. You may want to replace them while you have the tank out. I replaced ours with the stainless steel ones.

Thanks, the P.O. actually recently replaced the pipes, so they are in pretty good shape. 
Got the tank out. Certainly doesn't look like it will come out, but a little leverage and it pops out pretty easy. Underneath wasn't pretty. I'm seen better and I've seen worse. There were no perforations, and it was structurally sound, but it needed some attention. 








Some rust bullet, zinc chromate primer, and then some rust inhibitive top coat in the closest color I could find to the exterior (pretty gald you won't be able to see it actually







)








My tranny mounts and engine cradle were in pretty rough shape too. 
















tranny mounts got cleaned up and painted with rust bullet. The engine cradle got ground down to bare metal, the cavities welded/filled, then coated with rust bullet and painted.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

Pretty lazy this weekend. Got the tank back in, forwent the OEM tank straps for my own version that was 1/4 of the price and will last much longer (stainless), replaced the supply and return fuel lines with marine inboard/outboard fuel hose (love this stuff, it's at least twice the wall thickness of any oem stuff), new shift linkage ball on the tranny, new tailshaft seal (wow that thing's not cheap), and got the fill and drain plugs for the tranny loosened. I was questioning whether it was going to happen, but after a few welded bolt/nut combinations and judicious use of an impact wrench they came unstuck (had to tighten before I could loosen).
Not working this week, and borrowing an engine hoist from a buddy, so the engine should be in monday or tuesday.


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## vanaguy (Oct 18, 2002)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

Huh. I bought the same header a little more than a year ago, but it doesn't have the brace going to the side like yours. I saw the single-port models have the brace, too. Now I'm worried that something bad is going to happen to my header...









_Quote, originally posted by *rs4-380* »_Header showed up today.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (vanaguy)*

May have been a running design change. The abscence of it doesn't neceassrily mean it will break though.
I'd call smallcar if ou are really worried.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

engine's in. Relatively straight forward except the bolts for the tranny mounts were a real pain for various reasons. That being said, I don't know if I would go about it differently next time. Ideally, the big bolts that sandwhich the mounts would be loose so you could align the mounts to get the three bolts per side in, but the problem is, once that's done it's pretty much impossible to torque the big bolts. I torqued the big bolts first, and the six smaller bolts are what gave me the most trouble. 
No picture because it's dark out, but all the little stuff starts to go on tomorrow. One thing I was surprised about was how roomier the engine bay is. The ej25 sits lower in the engine bay and seems to be both narrower and shorter (although it mounts further back because the mounts attach to the front of the engine as opposed to underneath it).


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## Vanagon-S (Mar 21, 2004)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

Nice work! I've got the same conversion going on right now in my driveway also. 
Got any tricks for the slave cylinder? those 2 bolts are tricky.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (Vanagon-S)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Vanagon-S* »_
Got any tricks for the slave cylinder? those 2 bolts are tricky.


Yup, if you notice the post where the old engine came out that was one of the things I had the most trouble with. The rear bolt I was able to get to from the back, but I had to end up going after the front bolt with a cutoff wheel (watch out for those fuel lines)


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## ken_mag (Apr 13, 2006)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

Looking really good Dave. I only had 3 of the 4 fixed nuts on the frame to bolt my tranny mount to.(2WD) I'm thinking of either fishing a nut behind the frame or just tap for a larger bolt into the frame.. for piece of mind.
Ken
87GL/EJ22


_Modified by ken_mag at 8:36 AM 11-22-2006_


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (ken_mag)*

yeah, i'm not that worried about it, as the rubber mounts will absorb most of the movement and shock loads, leaving the bolts to just really hold up the tranny and two per side should be fine for that.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

updates: intake manifold, accesories, and header are on the car. Fuel pump installed and system is plumbed. Test fit/installed the wiring last weekend. Everything fits well, engine cranks (start simple), although couldn't get the fuel pump to run for some reason. Didn't do much trouble shooting, came back to it today after pulling the harnedd out and realized I had the feed wire for the main relay bundled with my 02 sensor wires (which were not hooked up yet), so there was no power to the ecu. Got that squared away today, got the 02's wired up, fabbed up some muffler brackets, and my thermostat housing spacer was completed by the local machinist, looks like it will need some trimming but nothing major. 
The weather for this weekend is far from perfect, but I'm really hoping to get the engine running by the end of it. i know I haven't been taking many pictures, but by the time I finish for the day it's dark out. I'll make sure to get some up this weekend.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

muffler brackets, smallcar style








still need to clean the engine bay








thermostat housing spacer. Had it made up by the local machine shop to plans from the subaruvanagon group. Guy did a really nice job, and it was very pretty, then I had to go and hack it up because obviously the plans were made up with the kennedy mount in mind. 








my harness. Didn't really need to lengthen anything, but because I cut the harness to get it out of the car, I had alot of splicing to do. It will get wrapped before it goes in the car for good.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

it's running. one little backfire and it started right up. sounds great, idles great.


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## unimogken (Jan 19, 2005)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

Very cool!
I escaped to my garage the other night and spent a good 6 hours tweaking with my wiring harness. Its almost done.
Looks like you beat me with your installation!


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## Vanagon-S (Mar 21, 2004)

*Re: Hello (unimogken)*

Same here! beat me too...








I ran into an issue with the starter that delayed me a day, I might have it running tomorrow though. 
Excellent job btw! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (Vanagon-S)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Vanagon-S* »_
I ran into an issue with the starter that delayed me a day, I might have it running tomorrow though. 


Saw that in your thread. I'm using the stock starter. It turns over slower then it did with the WBX, but it still seems to do just fine (helps that the engine fires right up). Even then I had to grind a little of the starter casing material off in order to get a nut on the stud from the adapter plate. I do NOT look forward to having to get it off with engine in the van.


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## Vanagon-S (Mar 21, 2004)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

Tell me about it.... removing the starter in a Syncro sucks. I had to do it about 6 times! you have to drop the engine everytime.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (Vanagon-S)*

Been fooling around with little things since last update. As stated, engine runs great, but I'm at that point where the project feels 95% done when you start the day and 95% done when you end the day. Luckily, I've been there enough to know that if you push through, the rewards are great. 
I've been blessed with unseasonable warm and dry weather, so the van is easy to work on, and I haven't moved it off the ramps it's been sitting on. In addition, I've got a couple weeks free from my main job, so I've been spending alot of time with the van (monkeying around with the cooling system mostly).
Things left include
-wiring up the vss
-getting the cooling system bleed (in process)
-tach (thought I had it solved my own way, but ordered a unit from smallcar tonight. I'm making my own gauge face). 
-my aftermarket oil pressure gauge seems to be not functioning, so whether I steal one from another of my cars for awhile, figure out whats wrong or get a new one, I need to resolve that. 
-My reverse light switch is just plain flaky, so I need to get a new one. (so is my diff lock switch, but I can't get to it without dropping the engine tranny, and I'm not going to do that). 
-Secure the cooling pipes out of the way.
-Bolt up the rear axles.
-throttle cable (planning on doing something of my own making, but really haven't gotten much into it, so I'm not sure how doable that is. 
-Final wiring location/securing for engine bay wiring (the main harness is done).
-Evap recovery system (was going to use the vanagon setup, but seeing how simple the subaru one is, I think I'll head back to the junkyard and grab that. )
-mounting straps for the airbox (intake consists of a 2.2 tb pipe, a section of intake I had laying around from a volvo 240, and the stock 2.5 (long) airbox. I think it looks pretty slick).
-clean all the crud off the sides of the engine compartment. 
and in the future after I make sure it's all roadworthy
-shorten the oil pan
-lengthen the skid plate
-fix the hole in the rocker panel
-fab up some underbody panels to keep crap out of the engine bay. 
-move the muffler mounts up 3/4 inch or so. 
-get new power steering hoses (i need new ones all the way to the front since my hardlines are shot)
on another note, I did drive it forward a bit with just the front driveshaft attached, which made me happy because a) at least the vc transfers torque, and more importantly b) the whole clutch system is functional. 

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


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## Double0_Van (Jun 5, 2003)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rs4-380* »_muffler brackets, smallcar style









Wow - where do you live? Amazing that they have muffler brackets growing on trees.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (mls64)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mls64* »_
Wow - where do you live? Amazing that they have muffler brackets growing on trees.









actually, that tree has sprouted quite a few useful items over the years.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

drove it today.
WOO HAA!


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

was having tach issues. couldn't get it to work no matter what. I found that one of the screws on the back of the cluster that grounds a diode or something was loose. Tightened it and the tach sprang to life. Also had to adjust the shift linkage a bit as the first drive I went on I couldn't get it into reverse. because of that i was starting out in third. It still pulled great though. 
Still just taking it out for short drives to weed out any issues, but so far it's been great. the thing really moves.


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## Grantus (Sep 24, 2006)

*Re: Hello (mls64)*

I was more curious about the vast quantities of leaves around each stage of this project


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (Grantus)*

yep, winter is mia this year

tach is all worked out. smallcar 7k and made my own gauge face


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## Doublecab (Feb 23, 2003)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

Looks like a great project !! Good to see people out there doing there own install work. Where are you in Maine ??
Tom


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (Doublecab)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Doublecab* »_ Looks like a great project !! Good to see people out there doing there own install work. Where are you in Maine ??
Tom

Greater Portland.

I'm not big on badges, but the van already had three on the back, so I decided one more wouldn't kill it, plus the subaru badge blends decently, in addition, the van is still far from a sleeper. I did cut the GL part of the Vanagon badge and shift the vanagon part further towards the edge of the door because I though Volkswagen Vanagon GL 2.5GT Syncro was a _bit_ much.








Still doing little stuff although most of it is not related to the swap. I'm in the middle of some stereo stuff this week in case I ever do decide to do a cross country trip with it. 
BTW, I've got a brand new outback badge for sale if anyone wants it, has the factory adhesive on the back, never applied. 23$ shipped.


----------



## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

My seat heater elements picked a good time to show up (it's damn cold today). Also sourced some parts for my rear brake upgrade (more on that later).








The vanagon seats are actually some of the easier ones to get out of the can and dissasembled.


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## RixDub88 (Jan 21, 2007)

*Re: Hello (unimogken)*

I'm just now seeing your post, so forgive the presumption after you've had your Vanagon for awhile now. You either have become completely hooked by now or are out of it altogether, whatever. But here's what I have to say about these engines -- Never lug 'em, i.e., don't be afraid to give it some revs. I shift just a hair below 4,000 at every gear -- the van loves it, and rewards me by not becoming a maintenance nightmare. The high rpm shifting does not translate however into pushing it on the road -- I rarely exceed 75 mph -- no need to really, I mean it's a rolling den, so why not enjoy the scenery? And no, I don't wear a straw hat at the wheel.


----------



## spaeth (Apr 8, 2003)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

I would love to know what you think of those seat heaters. Our Audi has them and I really like having my back warm, especially when coming down from a long day of skiing. I would love to put some in the DoKa. Which heaters did you get?
Craig


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (spaeth)*

I just got the 80 dollar ones. Work pretty good, takes a little longer then the oem seat heaters in my mkiv, but they do get pretty toasty once they get going. If you like them really hot you may want to opt for the "extreme" ones.


----------



## der hare (Oct 27, 2001)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

wow looks amazing dave..
i'm always on the lookout for a cheap synchro..i know those 2 words should not be used together..but you have definitely done this right. nice work!
hows the cabby?


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (der hare)*


_Quote, originally posted by *der hare* »_wow looks amazing dave..
i'm always on the lookout for a cheap synchro..i know those 2 words should not be used together..

You never know, I wasn't necessarily looking for one, but found this on the side of the road in gray in great condition for cheap, and being a vw fan, it was hard to pass up. They are alot of fun when you come from the a-platform cars.

anyway, did alot of wiring today, although I'm still not totally finished. Installed my sub amp under the driver seat, the sub is under the middle seat right now, but I am planning on building another box for it and putting it under the rear out of way.








The amp is wired to a fuse block under the passenger seat that I'll use for all my 12v accessories (ie rewire the lights up front to it, use it as a source for the relayed headlights, extra power receptacle). I'm using the negative distribution block as distribution for ignition on power for things like the heated seats, gauges, etc). It looks thrown in there but it is bolted down using an existing bolt.








Ran the wiring/switch for the seat heater.








This stuff actually took most of the day since all the wiring is run under the carpet/insulation.
Also I've been running without the skidplate for awhile. Finally got around to lengthening it and cutting a relief for the thermostat housing. When I was stripping it for paint I found that one of the sides was actually in pretty bad shape, so that was patched/reinforced where needed. Right now it's coated in rust bullet. I'll paint it black before it goes back on.










_Modified by rs4-380 at 8:40 PM 2-7-2007_


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

Ahh, nothing like 4 days of wiring in some of the coldest weather we've had all year. The end is in sight though, couple more wires to hook up for the cruise control and the relayed headlights and I'm all set (although I still ahve to tear the dash out to replace the blower motor







). I think I can get that stuff done in one day. Also been working on the rear disc setup now and then, the brackets are going to be more complicated then I thought they would be, so it's something I needed to have a machine shop to do. Waiting on those to finalize the proof of concept and then it's a go. I had a friend weld the oil pan after I cut everything, and that's ready to go, need to pick that up then I can get that back on and the skidplate on too. The van's only been out of commission for two weeks but I'm already missing driving it.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

cruise control switchgear and my handy dandy indoor/outdoor thermometer








not the best picture but you can see my modified jeep clinometer. It's inset into the center stack cover and backlit with the instrument panel lighting. 








I also added an led in the unused led space in the cluster that is tied back to the subaru oil pressure switch. I'm running a pressure gauge but I thought it would be nice to have a warning more in my line of sight.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

oil pan actually worked out better than I expected (i'm not very exacting). The leading edge it recessed behind the lower edge of the front crossmember of the skid plate and the rear extension tucks right up over the rear crossmember. I'll probably make a bolt on cross member that covers the bulk of the pan and the drain plug though before I do any serious rock hopping. Pan holds 4 qts with the rear extension. 








the actuator for the cruise control is the box in the upper right.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

snowed in today and didn't really want to make the trek to the barn, so I spent the time polishing some wheels for another project and building a real simple box for a 8" JBL sub I had laying around from about 8 years ago. This will fit under the rear bench.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

Finished the first side of my rear disc project. I'm not a huge drum fan, plus, I'm a big proponent of adding stopping power when adding engine power.
I'm using rear discs off a C5 Audi A6 (255mm x10mm), calipers/carriers off an A3 platform golf/jetta, machined hubs, and fabricated brackets. 
Upsides to this conversion are
-Fits under 14" wheels
-Uses very available rotors
-Uses very available calipers
-Uses calipers that have a wide range of pad options
-About 85-90% of the stopping power of the smallcar/gowesty kit for much much cheaper.
In fact regarding the calipers, with carriers from an A2 (85-92 golf/jetta) or a 4-cyl A3 (93-99 golf/jetta) you can use the calipers from an A2, an A3, or an A4 (99.5-05 golf/jetta/new beetle). Obviously these were the most common cars VW produced, so they are very available in lcoal junkyards (people often throw then out). The calipers are essentially all the same with some external differences (same piston etc). The A3 calipers have an e-brake mechanism that pulls from the bottom instead of front to back and are a little more reliable (e brake) in cold weather compared to the a2 calipers. The a4 calipers are a little more reliable still in terms of cold weather e-brake operation and are aluminum, so they are a great deal lighter, they also use a banjo bolt instead of a standard brake line end. Obviously, the calipers increase in price with the newer generation cars, but this lets you pick the price point that works for you. Also, as I mentioned, because you use these calipers, you get a huge pad option. I'm using mintex redbox, as I have them on two of my other cars, and I'm very happy with them. 
In terms of comparison to the 10.6" kits by companies, this is 95% of the diameter. The only difference with the 10.6 calipers is that they have a wider throat for the 20mm rotors. They have the same pad area, and same piston diameter. Therefore only the additional leverage supplied by the additional diameter contributes to the increased initial stopping power. Considering my setup is 95% of that diameter, I'm confident in my statement about comparison in stopping power. Now obviously the 10.6 kits use 20mm vented rotors, but thicker rotors don't increase intial stopping power, they only decrease fade. Because the rear brakes are limited by the stock proportioning valve and are restriced in the actual amount of braking they do, I don't ever plan to get the point where the rear brakes will fade anyway (it's a syncro, I'm not taking it to the track, the fronts will fade anyway first). 
Downsides include the machined hubs (i'm comfortable with the amount of material left, but you do have to admit they were designed that way for a reason) and the fact that because of the offset of the rotor, it makes the brackets much more complicated to make then the 10.6 kits. While the 10.6 kits use essentially straight brackets, my brackets need to have offset mounting points for the caliper carrier in relation to where the bracket mounts to the swing arm tab. This means that I couldn't make the bracket out of one piece of metal with my capabilities (you could machine one, but it would be expensive), so my brackets are welded. I'm very comfortable with their strength (they are actually thicker then the 10.6 brackets at the stress points), but it makes them really difficult to mass produce (which I had initally thought I may do). 
In the end, these were my costs
-Hub Machining, 30/hub
-Rotors, 28/rotor
-Calipers/carriers, 42/side at junkyard
-Metal for brackets, 5
-Pads, 39
For a total of right around 250$. I'm pretty pleased with that. Obviously, depending on your caliper choice, it could be higher (or lower).
(not final assembly, so don't get upset about dirty rotors and the backing sheets on the pads)








looks like the rim is sitting on the caliper here, but it's hard to get a shot of, the caliper drops in, so there is a probably a half inch clearance between the caliper and the stepped section of the wheel.


----------



## Vanagon-S (Mar 21, 2004)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

Can we see more pics? I like the idea of having the mechanical parking brake integrated into the caliper.
Looks good btw! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (Vanagon-S)*

anything specific you want pictures of?
A2 caliper








A3 caliper








A4 caliper








you can see how the a3 and a4 caliper e-brakes pull from the top down, and the a2 pulls from the back to the front.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (RixDub88)*

changed the front blower motor today, wasn't terrible, but I wouldn't want to do it a ton. Took me about 5 hours. I used vise grips to get the headless bolts out of the steering column and didn't use the vw clips to reassemble the box, instead just screwing it together with small self tapping screws. The biggest hassel was all the wiring I have added for various things. I went ahead and made them all disconnectable if I ever have to do it again in the future. 

I did use a 25 year old blower from my rabbit that I had sitting around, so perhaps I will be doing it again soon.... 
The old blower was seized up, I could barely turn it by hand.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

relayed my headlights today and put it some silverstars (which I am more than skeptical of). Got everything in the interior back together. 
Took it out for the first longer spin in awhile, the heated seats are warmer then I thought they were initially, I don't think I could stand the high setting for too long.
The brakes work GREAT. It doesn't compare to my other cars with brake upgrades, but what it does do it make it stop like (and in some cases better then) any other "normal" car out there. Stops are without drama, and you never have that feeling where as you are approaching the back of a car at a stop sign you keep pushing harder on the pedal and even though it moves further down it doesn't feel like you are stopping any quicker.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

finally hooked up a charcoal canister today. I used one from a 98 or so outback (although I think most of the OBII ones are the same). I mounted behind the passenger side rear fender well (basically tucked up in the rear quarter panel). Actually fits pretty good and is much simpler to hook up then converting the vw canister, since all it's just one line to the tank vent, and one line to the hard line under the fuel supply/return lines on the engine.
Also, since my power steering hard lines are totally shot, I didn't have the power steering hooked up. The lines on the van are just spliced together, and previously the pump was on the engine, but it was just freewheeling. The was making the pump get really hot though, so I removed it and used a shorter belt (gates k050275 if anyone wants it) to power the alternator directly off the crank pulley.
Also, when I was at the junkyard, I picked up another subaru oil pressure sender to replace the one I fried when I hooked it up directly to 12v+. This is what controls the led I added to the instrument panel in the space across from the OXS light.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

Been going through and cleaning up things that could have been done better. 
I had some custom hose tees made up. They weren't cheap, but I stay away from welding alumnium and I've been out of town alot lately so I just bit the bullet and had a machine shop make them up for me. I had assembled the cooling system from off the shelf parts, and in some cases transitions from different sizes of hose were made up of multiple fittings and short lengths of intermediate hose to get from one size to another. These tees eliminate all those fittings (and leak points), wont give me any issues because they are aluminum, and allow me to gain more clearance in places since the angles and lengths are made to fit.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

Not a whole lot to add other then to say how much fun I have driving this van. Most of you probably already know this, but for me, it's a new experience. They really are unique vehicles. I used to dread rainy days because I didn't get to drive my "fun" cars. Now it doesn't matter what the weather is like!
As a side note, I haven't found anything that _won't_ fit inside. They swallow everything!


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

added a rear fog light today since the rear lighting on these things leave alot to be desired (already added a high mount 3rd brake light).
Rummaged through the barn to find something I could use to make the spring (that's all you need to make this work other then the wiring, a switch, and a bulb) and settled on using a similar one from a volvo bulb holder that I had to cut in half to fit. I soldered the actual spring to the correct conductive element on the bulb tray. Works great, easy and cheap. An uninsulated female spade terminal inserted into the tailight plug in the second position from the bottom (should be the only empty one) takes care of wiring on the tailight side. Already had the oem fog light switch up front, so just ran a wire under the car and used the second position on the switch.








Also changed my intake a bit. The volvo intake hose/tube was a bit to small to fit snugly into the subaru tubing so I had just made it bigger with a could wraps of ducktape. Unfortunatley when it got hot out, the glue on the tape began to melt and it would slip, which would then separate the two tubes. So I went to the hardware store and found a plastic adapter for something that was just the right size. slipped it over the volvo intake tube, screwed them together (no more slipping) and it's just the right diameter for the subaru intake.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

Replaced my front rotors yesterday. Although they were performing fine, the wear pattern on the inside of the discs was way out of wack, and the inside of the "hat" was rusting and flaking away, causing a squeal at times. 
You can see the one on the left was only using about a 1/4 inch of the rotor surface.








I have to admit you 2WD guys are lucky when it comes to this process. Although rotors that use hubs instead of integral bearings seem easier, in reality by the time it comes time to replace the rotors the damn things are seized to the hubs like nobodys business (make it easier on all future van owners, use antiseize on everything!). I had to heat them up to about 200 degrees, use half a can of pb blaster, a 5 ton three jaw puller, and a crow bar before I could get the old rotors to budge. On the passenger side one of the edges chipped, letting the puller spring free under pressure, good thing I was standing to the side instead of in front of it. After resetting, the entire rotor started to crack from the froce exerted by the puller. Luckily I was able to work it free before I ended up with it in pieces.









Should also mention I had a rear hard line let go a month or two ago, and because the rear t was pretty much impossible to get to without removing the tranny, I just replaced the whole rear circuit (new t and everything, on the front of the crossmember instead of the rear). Because I had to replace the t, I had to replace the line from the prop valve back, and because the prop valve was a rusty ball, I had to cut the lines to get them off, so I had to replace the prop valve, and the line from the prop valve to the master cylinder. So I essence, I've got an entirely new rear brake circuit. That, combined with this recent work, and the new rear rotors and pads this spring should hopefully take care of the brakes for awhile


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## RATHERSMART (Dec 6, 2005)

can you post a diagram or a pic of the adapters you used for the rear brakes? I wonder if it's something that i can do with a piece of steel metal or if i need to take it to a machine shop?


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: ([email protected])*

sorry, the adapters were basically fabricated on the car, no diagrams to speak of. I did it with plate steel. 
more in this thread though
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/for...light=


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: (rs4-380)*

so I was bored the other day and started thinking about how I couldn't really use all those driving lights in traffic and how nice it would be to have a set of fog lights as well. So what to do? Add more lights. I'll admit it looks a bit ridiculous with 5 hella 500's on the front but it's function over form in this one, I've got plenty of light whenever I want it.
-pic when I fix my camera-


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: (rs4-380)*

amber 55w fogs in the lower outsides, 100w driving in the center, and 55w driving in for the two uppers. The fogs are operated by the first position on the oem fog light switch (rear fog is the second position) and the driving lights all come on with the high beams, but the can be overridden (off) by a switch mounted about halfway up the steering column.








mounting actually worked out pretty well for the uppers, I just welded a bolt as a stud in the center grille tab, and then used a piece of flat stock to mount the lights to, which then gets bolted to that stud after the grille goes on


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (Vanagon-S)*

After getting stuck today







I finally got off my ass and figured out why my diff lock was engaging. When I had the tranny out I got it functioning by hand and installed a brand new actuator, but I couldn't get it to lock up and I put off looking at it. 
With the shame of being pulled out of a sticky mud hole by a fwd volvo station wagon I figured out later that there was a simple solution: the lines were connected incorrectly at the switch. Easy fix, and it now it engages, I can't wait to see what effect it has.


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## brooklynvanagon (Oct 2, 2007)

*Re: (rs4-380)*

Hi, 
Love the speed of execution! Can you direct me to links on how to take care of nonstructrual seam rust, and bubbles on the exterior of the car? Your cars look great and you live in maine!
I just brought up a fairly clean 87 from the south and I wont be garaging it, etc during the winter. I'd like to slow the spread of rust, while keeping a budget. So far only one small seam is a problem (drivers rear)
Thanks.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: (brooklynvanagon)*


_Quote, originally posted by *brooklynvanagon* »_Hi, 
Love the speed of execution! Can you direct me to links on how to take care of nonstructrual seam rust, and bubbles on the exterior of the car? Your cars look great and you live in maine!
I just brought up a fairly clean 87 from the south and I wont be garaging it, etc during the winter. I'd like to slow the spread of rust, while keeping a budget. So far only one small seam is a problem (drivers rear)
Thanks.

there is all kinds of info on it over at the samba, the vanagon boards are also more active there.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/for...?f=20
there are all kinds of ways to treat it, but the best way is to totally get rid of the rust , then reseal/repaint


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: (brooklynvanagon)*

replaced the stock horn with a hella dual trumpet air horn.

it's loud.


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## BanamexDF (Jul 31, 2005)

*Re: Hello (RixDub88)*

Looking over everything you've done, it's really turning out great! Congratulations. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (BanamexDF)*

Did a couple things last weekend to get more heat out of the car (it runs pretty cool with the 2.5). First thing I did was put covers that were just cut out of thin aluminum sheet over the heater inlets. This helped a ton as it stopped the constant drafts in the van at speed, it also helps because it isn't having to heat the cold outside air all the time. 

The big help however was installing a heater valve in the t-stat bypass line. I set the cooling system up with a 5/8" line running from the subaru coolant manifold to a t-stat bypass adpater I had my local machinist make up. I t-d into that line for the heater feed. It became readily apparent that the 5/8" line was too large, and it was causing the t-stat to stay open longer then it should, which meant the engine didn't really heat up. I didn't really worry about it this summer because I didn't need heat and the van ran at a fine temperature in the warm/hot days, but I wasn't going to go through another winter with cat-breath heat. I thought about putting a restrictor in the line, but I had a new oem heater valve from an A1 laying around so I decided to just use that, which would let me vary the flow (and therefore theorectically vary the running temp of the van) whenever I wanted. I'm glad to say it has worked, I can tailor how hot the engine runs by adjusting the valve, and along with providing more heat, it has an added benefit of diverting more flow through the heater circuit (the valve is after the t to the heater circuit). 
I've been enjoying riding in the van without having to depend on the seat [email protected]!


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## NoSpooL (Nov 14, 2007)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

Shoot must b nice good project from 1st pg to here. Im from MI so I kno a lil something about the cold its no fun but here in FL I have seatwarmers on my 04' Jetta GLS and they're pretty much of no use =/


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: (rs4-380)*

just checking in to say how much fun this van is in the snow!!!!


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## Kraftw3rkJetta (Sep 29, 2006)

*Re: (rs4-380)*

Awesome project you got! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif What kind of paint did you use on your tranny, it looks great!


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: (Kraftw3rkJetta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Kraftw3rkJetta* »_Awesome project you got! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif What kind of paint did you use on your tranny, it looks great! 

Spray paint picked up at the local autoparts superstore, the color is "ford gray", used on on the 020 in my rabbit as well, since the paint fills in the rough casting of the case, it makes them much easier to keep clean.


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## Kraftw3rkJetta (Sep 29, 2006)

*Re: (rs4-380)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rs4-380* »_
Spray paint picked up at the local autoparts superstore, the color is "ford gray", used on on the 020 in my rabbit as well, since the paint fills in the rough casting of the case, it makes them much easier to keep clean.









Looks great, I plan on going that same route with my Jetta tranny. I think Duplicolor makes a "ford gray"...


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: (Kraftw3rkJetta)*

Replaced the front blower motor again this weekend. I knew better when I replaced it last year with a used one I had laying around from a rabbit, but it was much quicker the second time around, didn't even need to spill coolant because I never even touched the heater core. Also took the opportunity to adjust the various hvac flap cables to better suit my needs. 
On another note, my ebrake wouldn't even budge, and I just figured something was frozen after I drove through a pretty nasty snow/rain/sleet/hail storm last week. When I looked under the car I was surprised to see that there was a block of ice encasing the driveshaft from the skid rails to the floor pan. This also explains why shifting had gotten interesting. I'm hoping the warmer weather will melt it this week.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

ran the van at the sccanh winter-x this past weekend. 
**** ton of fun


__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


























__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view









and the run I stuffed it (3:45 in)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnN6aFoubPA


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## Vanagon-S (Mar 21, 2004)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

Oh man that looks like fun! You did stuff it quite nicely in the vid. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Chapel (Jun 23, 1999)

that thing is so dope


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: (Chapel)*

As anyone who works on older cars know, often times in order to replace one thing, you have to replace a whole lot more, because something is stripped, seized, worn, or just generally in ****ty shape. This is why I'm a firm believer of making things easy on yourself in the future, and replacing things "while your in there". While many of the areas of this van have had that treatment, the suspension has been totally untouched. 
I have known since last spring that the front upper control arm bushings were screwed up on driver side. I had bought some with the intent of replacing them, but the camber bolt was seized inside the bushings, and I didn't want to screw around with it so I just tightened the nut (which stopped the control arm front moving around at will - at least for a while) and left it for later. I bought a new camber bolt this winter and last weekend I finally decided to do something about it. 
I broke several "manuafactured" 14mm allen wrenches (14mm head bolt with nuts welded it on), a can of pb blaster and some serious heat on the bolt but it wouldn't budge, it was totally seized to the inner ring of the bushings. I decided my only solution was to cut the damn thing out. In order to to that I had to unbolt the ball joint from the control arm so I could lift of the control arm and get the clearance to get the blade in there. As usual, one of the allen head bolts for the ball joint was totally seized and no amount of heat or pb blaster would free it, and I eventually stripped out the head. Face with that, I just ground the head off, which guaranteed I would need a new ball joint. With the ball joint out of the way I attacked the camber bolt and 4 saw blades and a new reciprocating saw later (my old one lasted long enough to cut up a rabbit and then wouldn't hold onto blades any more) I had finally freed the control arm. 








You can see how both ends of the camber bolt are still seized to the bushing inners.
Took it to the local machine shop, had the old bushings pressed out and the new ones in and was ready to go. However, I had to deal with the ball joint (which is one of my two least favorite things to do). I still had to get the stud out of the spindle, which is pretty much impossible. I borrowed all sorts of press and pullers from the lcoal parts store, but couldn't get anything to work with the vanagons unique setup. Finally, I said to hell with it, and ground the entire top of the ball joint off, which let me actually get a 4wd ball joint service press on it and pop the stud out. 








The thing is with ball joints getting them in sucks as much as getting them out. It's always tricky to get the nut tight without just spinning the stud. As usually I cursed at it for about an hour until I took a big woodworking clamp, wedged it against the top of the fender well then used it to apply pressure to the top of the ball joint, which put enough friction on the stud to let me tighten the nut without it spinning in the upright. 
Needless to say, I put everything back together with the intent of not doing again for awhile, but using substances that would actually let me get it apart without a grinding wheel again. I've started to wonder what the condition of the passenger side is like...


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (Vanagon-S)*

one other thing, I did NOT get dead last in the autox....


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## 71DubBugBug (Dec 3, 2006)

damn that looks like fun


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: (71DubBugBug)*

speaking of "doing it all while your are in there" I did NOT change the starter when I had the engine out and i regretted it immediately after I got it back in. It's worked fine since the swap, sometimes it would sputter or crank really slow, but it would always start on the next try or the engine would catch even without cranking very quickly. However at the autocross thing this winter I had to whack it with a hammer to get it to turn over once, and I've had to do it 3 more times since. In the interest of not having to get under the van when I really wouldn't want to, I decided I would change it. 
I've seen and heard how much of a pain in the ass these are to change on the syncros, but as usual I thought I could find a way to do better then everyone else. Didn't want to lower the engine, because it's a pain in the ass, and didn't want to remove the diff lock because I know for a fact I wouldn't be able to get the drift pin out. 
After fighting with it for awhile I did indeed need more room. Decided that if I unbolted the diff lock bracket I could leave the actuator attached and just perhaps rotate the bracket enough to give the necessary clearance. IN order to do this I needed to unbolt the axleshaft, which has been a daunting feat in previous fwd vw's, but wasn't bad at all considering I replaced all the bolts during the swap and the angle of the shaft makes it easy to get a wrench on all the bolts. Anyway, after unbolting the bracket and turning it, I did indeed get enough clearance to get the starter out with some manuevering. Didn't even take that long. I'm confident if I have to do it again I could get the old one out and the new one in in under an hour.
Some tips:
-Get a starter with the short stud for the battery cable. The stud is what causes alot of the interference, and the shorter it is the easier it is to get in there. You can always cut down the stud if you get a starter with a longer one. If you have the big eyelet on the alternator cable like I did you'll need to just cut it off and put on a regular ring terminal. The smaller stud also lets you get a socket on the nut to remove/tighten it. 
-You have more room to work if you remove the lower stud that secures the starter. Mine comes out easily, but if your's doesn't it's worth the effort to get it out and replace it with either a small-head bolt or a new stud with antiseize so you can get it out next time.
-Nothing makes it easier to get the battery cable on the stud and the starter trigger on the terminal once the starter is in, there is no room back there and while you probably could install the starter with the cables already on, it's much easier without. I can't offer any advice other small hands and/or patience on that one.


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## ken_mag (Apr 13, 2006)

*Re: (rs4-380)*

Speaking of starters I've been thinking about installing a TDI starter from 1996-2003 TDI VW's. An adapter plate can be had from http://www.westyventures.com/parts.html . Like you, I've got a subie in my 87 van and these engines have considerable higher compression and the old WBX'rs making the original starter work harder. A stronger starter might be just the ticket.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: (ken_mag)*

considered it, but again, i'm not getting the drift pin out with the tranny in the car so there was no way i could modify the diff lock bracket. The ej25 actually catches so quickly it's usually not a problem.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: (rs4-380)*

The starter has been working out well. 
I've started to tackle some of the seam rust between other projects.
This weekend I got my passenger side window motor working briskly again. If not used frequently it would often not work at all, and I would have to take it out, get it spinning again, and put it back in. This time, after putting it back in, it barely lifted the window. So I cracked the case, sprayed a bunch of wd40 inside, sanded the corrosion off of the shaft where it sticks out from the housing, and cleaned up the terminals directly under the cap (even though I have no idea what they were or if it did anything). End result is that the window is now faster then the driver side and powers right up, not bad considering after it barely lifted the window I was planning on spending money on a used motor.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

Couple weeks ago went out to drive the van and it was dead, my dad had borrowed it and left the radio on, came back a couple days later to jump it and took it for a short spin and it was having serious running issues. It would miss and buck even when not under load. My first thought was fuel problems, but the pressure was fine. At that point I though bad fuel, and drained the tank, but that didn't do anything either. 
During this I noticed that the exhaust had broken at both ends of the j pipe, and the the end of the o2 sensor was also bent. hmmm... This is when my dad "remembered" he had actually backed the van into a new concrete foundation. (that's why there was concrete marks on the cat and lodged in the exhaust bolts). So i picked up a new o2 (always has to be the more expensive one) and it started running fine, albeit with a huge exhaust leak as by this point the j pipe was disconnected at both ends. I drove it 10 miles, parked it for 30 minutes, came back out and it would just not start. Ended up having it towed. 
In the meantime I had ordered a stainless smallcar exhaust setup. Put it on today, and the van started right up again. I guess these motors are more sensitive to the front o2 then I thought. 
At the sametime I picked up an enginewiring.com VSS because the smallcar unit never worked (hopefully now I can rev above 4300rpm if I want to) and decided even though I don't have a check engine light hooked up so I could care less about the ecu throwing the code, to also pick up a rear o2 sensor simulator from them as well. Wired them up, and hoping to take it out for a spin tomorrow when I have more time.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

wasn't driving the van alot lately but took it out for a short spin and noticed that it was leaking a decent amount of oil. It was coming from the rear drivers side of the engine and I had awful thoughts of the welds on the shortened oil pan failing or a leaking cam seal. Finally got around to looking at it the other day and was happy to find out that it was the oil filter. Granted I was pissed that the filter was leaking (from the seam near the top of the filter) but was glad it was an easy fix. I guess subaru had these exact problems years ago and switched filter supplies (and supposedly cured the problem) but my new, OEM filter had done the same thing after about 4k miles. I wasn't that impressed.
Because I had to to take the skid plate off to find the source of the leak I took the opportunity to modify it and add some protection for the coolant hose, which is something that has been in the back of my mind for awhile. Just used some square tubing and plate I had laying around.


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## okalready (Dec 11, 2008)

*EJ25 a good match for 87 Syncro?*

Hey. Reading about your EJ25/Syncro. I have an 87 syncro and am thinking about putting in an EJ25. Any thoughts generally about how the engine works with the van -- vibration issues, etc. I was initially thinking about getting a Tiico, but I might be having a change of heart. James ps, I'm also in Maine -- Portland.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

glad I fixed the diff lock last weekend because I came home to the van covered in about a foot of snow. It was light snow with a hard crust of ice about half and inch thick on top which made it difficult to get through without momentum. That being said, with the diff lock engaged and a little back and forth it pulled right through it.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: (Horrido Beetle)*

redid the front brake circuit his weekend from caliper to master cylinder. The issue I had with uneven brake rotor wear surfaced again, and looking at the pistons, they were a bit crooked in the bores. Tried to rebuild them, but ended up with a seal kit for ATE's instead of girlings, and just said screw it and ordered rebuilt calipers, and ran new hard and soft lines. The brake line tee screwed me over again (no one has them locally, didn't realize the front circuit used one, ended up having to wait for it to come in) but got everything on and bled and I am happy. 

Also worked on some little stuff, my hella air horn was no longer blowing, taking the motor apart it appears the motor worked fine but the impeller that blows the air was seized in it's case. ran some pb blaster through the case, worked it free using a some vice grips and it's blowing fine again. I used some soft foam to try and catch some of the crap from the air intake to prevent it from happening again, but considering the crap on the roads in the winter, I am not sure if it will do much. 
Also, my slow driver side window had started to squeal, after having luck last year resuscitating the passenger side motor by taking it apart and cleaning (running electric contact cleaner through it to flush out all the crap) it I did the same thing with the drivers side. No more squeal and the thing zooms up and down.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

Got new wheels for my s5 last week, and thinking about how the new b8 platform cars have bigger hub bores (they are now the "mercedes" 66mm bores), thought I would try the stock wheels on the van. They fit just fine on the back. Didn't even rub on the trailing arm.

Not the right type of tires, but definitely got me thinking. They could be a bunch of new wheel options out there with the new hub bores. 

Also, i realized the my rear spring on that side had not only broken (some of the dead coils) but the lower inner spring hat had also rusted off. Any advice on where to get a single rear syncro stock spring and what to do about the lower mount?
Also, had a litte "unintended acceleration" the other day, so took the opportunity to replace the accelerator cable with the new unit I have had sitting around for a couple years. Took the opportunity to redesign the attachments for the mounts at the engine as well. I had been using the stock vw cable clamped to the subaru cruise control cable. The subaru cable was fixed to the engine, and the vw was fixed to the body. Problem was there was flex in the sheet metal body, which could cause varying idle speeds (especially on really cold days). I made up a bracket that fixes the vw cable to the engine as well, which means the body flex won't come into play and also gives me a bigger range of adjustment so I can actually get a bigger throttle opening. 
And one more thing, a bypassed the rear heater core entirely and rerouted the hoses, getting rid of about 6 feet of hose and a couple fittings, which should make thigns a bit more reliable.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

and one more


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## MagicBus (Oct 3, 2003)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

Nothing to add except to say that I like this thread. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## BLUE 88 FOX 1.8L (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: Hello (MagicBus)*

i have bmw rims on my vanagon. they are a good 9" wide. i think it looks great.
some food for though


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

took the van out for a short trip the other day and after about 4 minutes it lost power and was vibrating pretty good. It wasn't bucking but it would idle ok but it was vibrating like a bitch when under load. I immediately thought I had a problem with one of the cylinders. Looked at it today, when I pulled the pull wire on cylinder 4 the behavior of the engine didn't change at all, so that was my culprit. Replaced the spark plug first because it was cheap and easy but no change. There also seemed to be no change when I pulled the connector for the injector, which told me there was some kind of issue with the injector. I have a spare manifold with all the sensors and wiring (that is one of the great things about the ej motors, everything electrical is connected to the manifold, and the whole manifold pulls off with about 6 bolts, so it's easy to grab one for spares), so i just pulled one of the injectors off that and swapped them out, problem solved. Glad it was easy and straightforward, but I was a bit concerned the injector went in the first place (I am not sure if it was totally shot or just clogged etc) and a little more concerned that some of the plastic was missing from the injector tip (and had therefore at some point gone through the engine), but it runs ok and the piece of plastic could have gone through at any time so I will just waint and see.


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

pictars-


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

My ebrake was acting up (i don't use it a whole lot), so I finally got under the car and took a look at it. crap had gotten in the ebrake cable on one side and was preventing the ebrake arm from moving. I got it unstuck and greased it up, but it looks like I may be replacing it this summer. Worst part is the side that went was the NEW cable from 2 years ago. If I do do new ones I will probably try a different routing and perhaps develop some way to keep crap out of them .


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## [email protected] (Apr 2, 1999)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

Awesome project Dave, glad to see it running so well.


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## DubPhreek (Apr 17, 2003)

*Re: Hello ([email protected])*

I'm thinking about an 87 syncro.. really like the capability to go offroad.. 
how is this for power?


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## rs4-380 (Dec 12, 2000)

*Re: Hello (DubPhreek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DubPhreek* »_
how is this for power? 

How is what for power? 
The stock engine has 90 hp to move a ~5000 pound vehicle with 4 forward gears. Power doesn't really come into play. The Ej25 is rated ~170hp and makes it MUCH more driveable. I have not changed the transmission ratios, but the extra power does allow you to do that if you want to get a little more civil engine speeds on the higway.


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## DubPhreek (Apr 17, 2003)

*Re: Hello (rs4-380)*

oh, I was refering to the engine update..


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## Nemesis-Brad (Aug 17, 2009)

I say lower it and make a custom DRY CARBON body kit for it !!!


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## jagt21VR6 (Jun 2, 2005)

Just read thru the whole thread and was a great read, going to have to pull it up at home so I can view the majority of the pictures as here at work we dont see imgur and most others...

I dont have a vanagon or westy yet but it is a dream of mine...so was there a reason or reasons you went with the ej over say a vr motor? or even a tdi motor? I assume(profess to know) the ej is probably more reliable, but ive only owned vws. syncros are very hard to come by, and I know most of them are out west, great steal man...

I know this is an old arse thread but this van is sick. all I would do is add the weekender package(which it may actually have) and the pop top, and maybe the awning and I would be camping off roading allll the time...good work man, im jelly

I love my gt28rs and my gli, but its not that great of a daily driver down here in the burg, not that a westy would be a good daily either, really both would be great to add to a stable, but a daily driver is in order first most likely...but no I would get a van or westy in a hearbeat for some stupid daily driver...hahaha

:thumbup: :beer:


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