# South African GT3071 MKV GTI Project



## Slowboat (Feb 12, 2003)

Well after running a GT2860RS turbo on my 2007 MKV GTI 6mt for a year, just over 30000Kms (under 20000miles), the total kms the car has done is 90000Kms (just over 55000miles). I decided it was time for a GT3071. I've done the build myself. Only certain parts has been sent in for machining and coating. The head was only sent in for flowing.
The idea is to have the car full street driveable in peak hour traffice. Also going to run on stock flywheel, clutch plate and pressure plate. Will see how long it will last







.
The project is now almost complete. Actually the car is running but there's one or two things that needs to be added and changed.
Now I stay at a fairly high altitude 1600m (almost 5500ft) here South Africa. I decided to use the 9.5:1 compression ratio pistons, from the stock 10.3:1. If I was closer to the sea level I would have used the 9.0:1 or most properly 8.5:1.
But I could have used a lower compression as there's no difference in drive ability at lower rpms. She is just as nippy as she was on stock compression. Was scared that the car would be a bit sluggish at the lower rpms.
Here's a basic list that has been done to the car.
IE Rods
JE 83mm ceramic coated (Top and sides) 9.5:1 pistons
Ferrea Valve kit with springs, etc...
Ceramic coated the Ferrea valves
ACL coated big end and main bearings
ARP head bolts
Head flowed
Ceramic coated the head combustion chamber
Ceramic coated the head ports
Ceramic coated the ATP exhaust manifold
Ceramic coated the turbine exhaust housing
Ceramic coated the full length of ATP DP
Rebored the block from 82.5mm to 83mm and used a torque plate
Audi S3 Injectors (was already installed with the GT28)
APR HPFP (was already installed with the GT28)
APR intercooler
Devils Own water injection setup with a 6 gallon tank
Peloquin Limited Slip Diff (was already installed with the GT28)
First of all I want to say thank to some of the people who got the parts for me:
Peter at Integrated Engineering for the pistons, rods, ACL bearings, ARP head bolts and some odds & ends.
Issam at INAEngineering for the APR IC and the Ferrea valve kit and some odds & ends.
Preggie at FRC (South Africa) for the GT3071 turbo kit and most importantly the tuning.
Gary at Sator Brothers Engineering (South Africa) for the ceramic coating of all the parts.
Sarel at 8V Performance (South Africa) for flowing the head.
Devan at Performance Chiptuning SA (South Africa) for the Devils Own water injection system.
Still have to do a few things like:
Install the RS4 injectors. Have ordered them and hopefully should have it in a few days.
Change the full 3inch cold air intake to a larger size before the MAF housing, from filter.
Install the harder engine mountings.
Install the USP low pressure pump kit.
The car is running but the S3 injectors are maxed out. Have to use water/alcohol injection to help the air fuel ratio along.
She does drive nicely. I like how the turbo boosts nice and gentle. Not like the K03 or even the GT2860RS which comes in fairly hard.
Once the RS4 injectors and the USP low pressure pump is installed, she should run very well, well hopefully







.
Here are some pictures. Will be adding more pictures of the project as time goes along.
Getting ready for the stripping.








Stripped the bumper and headlights off.








Stripped the front section off.








The head stripped off.








The head.








The block with the head off.








Stripping the valves, etc... off the head.








Valve spring compressor in operation.
Now I can remove the collets.








The inlet valves. Notice how clean they are from carbon build up







.








Notice on the lower part of the valve how the carbon seemed to have broken off. While I was removing the valves I was very careful of not touching that area of the valve. No carbon bits came off while removing the valves.








Manufacturing default on one of the inlet valve







.
Been very lucky for most properly 90000Km (55000miles).








Exhaust valves.








As you can see no problems what so ever with carbon build up.








Now this picture was taken about 30000Kms (just under 20000miles) ago.








Now the same inlet valve at 30000Kms (just under 20000miles) later.








Notice how less carbon it's got.
Just before I started this project I did an "Italian tune up" (rev the engine at high rpms for a period of time). Also during those 30000Kms I used water/meths all the time.
Anyway I think it's more the "Italian tune up" that actually started to break down the carbon and not the water/meths. Even VW themselves are saying to do an "Italian tune up" to clear out the carbon build up.
Later on I'll post more pictures on the flowed head and the valve install.


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## IMAN973 (Jun 1, 2006)

*Re: South African GT3071 MKV GTI Project (Slowboat)*

nice build
valves look pretty good


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## marc1171 (Nov 19, 2008)

nice build!!
can't wait to see some numbers - like everyone else..
the coating is a nice touch







) shuld make it alot cooler...
and the instant power with this turbo is fun fun fun!


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## Krieger (May 5, 2009)

*FV-QR*

lmao, ur car is ****ing DIRTY.
give her a nice rub down before you go raping her some more. lol


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## IMAN973 (Jun 1, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (Krieger)*








rape


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## ryangti (Oct 5, 2008)

*Re: South African GT3071 MKV GTI Project (Slowboat)*








http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## MFZERO (Mar 13, 2002)

*FV-QR*

nice project


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## Lou_Y2mK5 (Apr 6, 2008)

awesome build!


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## playback (Jun 14, 2007)

Wooohoooo. Someone in my area and at my altitude running a decent turbo. Not that your GT28 was slow







And using the same tuner








Good luck. I'm keen for a ride to see how the K04 compares and spool characteristics. 
Thanks again for the help a few months back with the water injection install and the intercooler install. Maybe I can bother you to do some logging soon. 
My K04 finally feels like she is running well










_Modified by playback at 9:30 PM 12-11-2009_


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## Slowboat (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re:*

Thanks guys.
@ Krieger: LOL. The car it self is clean it's just the engine bay is really dirty. We've got a problem with the all the dust, with all the major road works on our highways around here in Johannesburg. You should see how much sand actually gets collected in the engine bay







.
@ Playback: The GT28 was much stronger closer to sea level than here at high altitude







. Just shout when you want to do some loggings.
Some more pictures:
The flowed head and ready for ceramic coating.
























The head back from ceramic coating.








The Ferrea inlet valves that has been ceramic coated.








The difference between the stock inlet valve (left) and the Ferrea inlet valve (right).








The Ferrea exhaust valves that has been ceramic coated.








The difference between the stock exhaust valve (left) and the Ferrea exhaust valve (right)








The valve ready for lapping.








Smeared some fine grinding paste on.








Lapping the valves.








The end result.
















Done all the valves. Numbered them so I know were they go after cleaning the valves and the valve seats.








Using the gun barrel cleaning kit to clean the valve guides.
Also cleaned the ports and the valve seats.








The Ferrea valve springs.








The difference between the stock valve spring (left) and the Ferrea valve spring (Right)








Ferrea titanium retainers.








Ferrea seat locators.








Ferrea lifter shim.








Valve stem seals with two "condoms".








The valve ready to receive the valve spring.








The tool needed for installing the valve stem seals.








Valve stem seal in the tool.








Insert the "condom" over the valve stem. This will protect the valve stem seal from damage while installing it.








Place the valve stem seal on top of the stem.








Place the tool onto the seal and firmly press the seal onto the valve guide.








The valve stem seal installed. You can remove the "condom".








Installed the valve spring.








All the valves installed.
The head is now ready to be installed onto the block.








Next time I'll show the pictures from the block.


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## MFZERO (Mar 13, 2002)

*FV-QR*

damn!


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## Krieger (May 5, 2009)

*FV-QR*

very good stuff.


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (MFZERO)*

LOVE IT!!!














http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## SpoonGTI (Dec 3, 2002)

FAPPAGE in progress


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## INYNN (Apr 14, 2008)

This is a great build thread!


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## jon102034050 (Sep 21, 2008)

wow, super informative and extremely detailed! Great job!


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## Krieger (May 5, 2009)

what'd u use to lap the valves? it did an amazing job.
also, did you do any flow tests to benchmark where your head was before and after the head work?


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## jonnyc23 (Oct 5, 2006)

Love the attention to detail on this one..
Just one question, ceramic coating the outside of the head.. Will that not just retain heat inside the top end??


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## mk6_myke (Jul 16, 2009)

*Re: (jonnyc23)*

that is sick!!!


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## little_red_fast (Sep 28, 2007)

Isnt he talking about the combustion chamber ( if that isnt the right word...I mean the area around the valve surface, not the entire head)


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## Krieger (May 5, 2009)

*Re: (little_red_fast)*

looks like he coated the outside.
this will keep heat in, but its not a big deal. I think keeping the heat in the engine will help spool up time and reduce heat soak like crazy. the oil and coolant will just work a bit harder.


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## little_red_fast (Sep 28, 2007)

*Re: Re: (Slowboat)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Slowboat* »_The flowed head and * ready for ceramic coating.*

Maybe my reading comprehension sucks, but it sounds like he hasn't done it yet, he is just preparing the head for it. Also, the exterior of the head does not look ceramic coated. It would be a light grey color, it appears to be a very light orange (surface corrosion on the head?). But once again, I could very well be wrong.


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## Krieger (May 5, 2009)

*FV-QR*

"The head back from ceramic coating."
yeah, its coated.
ceramic coating can be alot of colors.


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## little_red_fast (Sep 28, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Krieger)*

I did say that my reading comrehension may suck...lol
Confused about why you would ceramic coat your entire head...


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## rhouse181 (Apr 13, 2008)

Wondering if that ceramic coating of the valves will be a magnet for carbon buildup. For instance, super toasty valves can shed some carbon deposits. But if these are ceramic coated to reflect heat, will that lend itself to heavier accumulation. Guess time will tell...
Nice head work nonetheless... Did you just clean up the intake and exhaust bowls or did you actually take some material out? Wondering if any calculations on intake velocity were done before the porting... The combination of fatter ports (slower intake velicity) and a big ol turbo might kill all torque until full spool rpm... Not that you will really care though in the end haha 


_Modified by rhouse181 at 7:58 PM 12-16-2009_


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## Slowboat (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re*

Thanks for the compliments.
@ Krieger: It's a peice of rod that has a rubber sucker at the end. You stick the rubber sucker at the bottom of the valve and rotate it with your two hands (like the old way to start a fire with a stick in the wooden block). Unfortunately the flow bench wasn't in operation at the time, so no figures there. The person did say that he's flowed a couple of heads and saw around 5Hp increase across the band on stock valves and cams. He said the head is pretty good in flowing in stock form and only real small gains is by working in the valve areas. Also I got extra gains by using the Ferrea valves. Have a look at the comparison between the stock and Ferrea inlet valve in the above pictures.
@ JonnyC23: Didn't do any ceramic coating on the outside of the head. It looks that way







. It's just the corrosion color. I only ceramic coated the combustion chambers and the inlet/exhaust ports.
@ Rhouse181: According to the ceramic coater guys, the carbon won't stick onto the valve that easily as it would without the coat. Yip time will tell. The exhaust and inlet ports was only cleaned. The area around the valve seats some material has been taken out. Had a choice of widen the ports but I believe going bigger in this area is not the right direction.
By 3800rpm I'm already boosting 2.5Bar absolute pressure (1.65Bar). Just remember I'm 1600m (5500ft) above sea level. This is really great and I was only expecting that boost level to come in the early to mid 4000rpm at this high altitude. At sea level I most properly get that boost level just above the 3500rpm mark







.


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## jonnyc23 (Oct 5, 2006)

Ahh sorry man.. Thanks for the response..
Fantastic build, and incredible how early you have boost!! Good luck with the rest of the build and make sure to get some videos up one your all done


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## rhouse181 (Apr 13, 2008)

Nice... You definitely made the right choice by not enlarging the ports and keeping velocity up... That is the most common mistake when porting heads. Just cleaning and smoothing out the bowls is the way to go. With this head, the air has a pretty damn straight shot into the combustion chamber already, so there is no need to go crazy. 
Great build!


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## rracerguy717 (Apr 8, 2003)

*Re: (rhouse181)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rhouse181* »_Nice... You definitely made the right choice by not enlarging the ports and keeping velocity up... That is the most common mistake when porting heads. 
Great build! 

I have to agree , but looking at those pic's of the head ( I haven't see one of these heads in person ) Nice fly-cut around those outside of the intake valves to un-shroud them could add big gains in airflow espec people going with 1mm bigger valves or looking for all out performance . Nice build







Bob.G


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## turbo944s2 (May 31, 2005)

Hey Slow,

Whats the max rpm you have ran with this setup?


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