# Bi-Xenon Head lights



## Faramarz1 (May 13, 2010)

Hey guys,

Can someone guide me what parts do I need to get to add the original Bi-Xenon headlamps to a 2010 CC Luxury?

Thanks


----------



## ccya (Sep 23, 2009)

*i tried*

I am getting front end work done on my 2010 CC and I had ordered the HID lamps to replace my Hals. In some cases you need a Controller unit for the auto leveling also the ECU seems to need some pins traced. It was too much work for me so I got the EU Hals with out the Amber crap in the Lens ;-). But if anybody has better info plez post. I could be wrong but my Auto Body guy explained it to me. Maybe he didn't want to do the work.. Hope I helped a bit.


----------



## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

Faramarz1 said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Can someone guide me what parts do I need to get to add the original Bi-Xenon headlamps to a 2010 CC Luxury?
> 
> Thanks


Aside from the housings?

Need to get the ballast, D1S bulb (yes, sold separately).
leveling sensors, control modules, wiring harness.... ain't cheap. It's around $3000-$4000 upgrade in parts alone!

http://oemplus.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=75_85_86&products_id=710


----------



## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

I am doing an OEM upgrade to the BiXenons on my 2010 Sport. So far this is the info I have, I will do a complete step-by-step when this is further along. I already bought the DOT headlight housings, but the E-Code euro housings could also be used. 
Parts you need, for full Active Cornering aiming, and automatic Level control. 
1) DOT/SAE Bixenon headlight housing assembly pn = 3C8-941-753E and pn = 3C8-941-75 4B. These can be bought from online VW part dealers for about $450 each. I found a brand-new set on Ebay for $250 each. The good news is that the housing already contains the leveling motor, the left/right aiming motor and feedback pot, the high-beam shutter solenoid, and the following halogen bulbs : 5W side marker lamp, 55W H7 "static" cornering lamp, 21W DRL, and a blue tinted 5W "city-lamp". They do not contain the D1S xenon bulb, or the HID ballast/control module, they must be bought seperatly. Note the stock headlight housings and ballasts are made by a company called "AL" (Automotive Lighting), which used to the Bosch automotive lighting products group. 
2) Your choice of brand and color qty = 2 D1S bulbs, I will go with stock color and OEM brand (Philips ?).
3) qty = 2 Headlamp Power Output Stage Modules pn = 1K0-941-329, $386 each. These attach to the backside of the headlight housings. These are not just typical HID ballasts, they also contain the CAN-Bus controllers for the left/right aiming and leveling motor, and it also switches the 12V power for some of the halogen bulbs in the housing.
Updated Info : Availible on Ebay are what appear to be the same AFS ballasts, new, for $175 each, pn= 8E0 941 329A, alt pn=8P0 907 391, AL(the manufacturer) pn = 307 329 154, used on the 06 thru 08 Audi A4 and TT with AFS. The connector looks correct for the CC AFS HID housings. 
4) Qty = 1 of the AFS control module, pn = 5M0-907-357C, this is about $166 from online dealers. This module is mounted inside the cabin, behind the glove compartment, and reads the signal from the level sensor, which is attached to the rear suspension. The AFS control module reads the average front-to-back level of the car, and sends this info on the CAN bus to the Headlamp Power Output Stage Modules, which then control the leveling motor inside the headlight housing. 
5) Qty=1 Suspension Level Sensor, pn = ?, price = ?. Attached to the rear suspension, wired to the AFS module. 

You have some options to save some money :
1) Delete the Automatic Level control by doing without the AFS control module and the suspension level sensor, but I don't know if this will throw a malfunction code from the Headlamp Power Output Stage module. Maybe the Output Stage module can be coded to delete auto-leveling, or just ignore that code. You would also have to manually set the center-level position of the projector, before installation, so the lights can be correctly aimed vertically. 
2) Delete the Active cornering aiming and the automatic leveling feature : use a regular (and much cheaper) HID ballast rather than the Headlamp Power Output Stage Module. But this option will require different headlight wiring and coding, and the manual setting of the aiming motor, to center, before headlight installation. 
Other notes : According to the Service Manual, the bumper cover must come off to remove the headlight housings...does not seem too bad of a job, but still added work. Also, like typical VW/Audi headlight housings, the mounting tabs are very fragile, but a repair kit is availible from VW, which makes the new tabs stronger than the original. There is a different pn tab repair kit for the Left versus Right headlight.
An update on my progress :
I decided to go the cheaper route (no AFS or leveling).
I bought genuine Philips ballasts on Ebay, brand-new, for $40 each, and genuine Philips D1S bulbs, brand-new for $50 each. 
I think you will still have to manually move the projector, inside the housing, so that it sits in the center of the vertical and horizontal adjustment range, so that the normal headlight aiming screws will have the normal range of adjustment. It is anyones guess where in the range of motion the internal motors are sitting at.
I am going to just change the coding to "NO DRLs", and wire the ballast 12V input to the existing halogen "Low-Beam" wires (will probably also need a cap across the ballast input to prevent the low-beam bulb failure warning message). The halogen high-beam wire will go to the high-beam shutter. For additional high-beam illumination, I want to replace the 21W DRL bulb (in the BiXenon housing), with a 55W H7 bulb, which will be wired in parrallel with the shutter, but that will need a different socket and bulb-mount on the back of the DRL reflector. I have no idea what the resulting hi-beam pattern will be, I don't know if the DRL reflector has a different optical design versus the H7 high-beam reflector in the regular halogen headlight housing.
CC Front Bumper Cover removal Instructions (from the Factory Service Manual) (17 screws total) 
I have not done this, this is just what the Service Manual says. 
1) Open hood, remove the 4 screws at the top edge of the bumper cover, between the headlights.
2) At bottom cover edge : remove the 3 screws in the center, and 2 screws, each side, near the fog-lamps/side grills.
3) At each wheel well, remove one vertical screw, near where the top rear-most edge of the cover meets the fender metal.
4) Each side, inside the wheel well, remove 2 horizontal screws, I think they face forward, at the edge of the cover and the black plastic wheel-well liner.
5) With a person on each side, pull out the edge near the wheel-wells, to pop-off the hook-catches which are behind the cover, at the line between the cover and the metal fender.
6) With a person on each side, slide the cover straight forward, a few inches, and disconnect any wiring harness connectors (?) or tubes (headlight washers).
7) Then pull the bumper cover straight forward, fully off the car.


----------



## MySilver2010CC (Sep 21, 2010)

Meh.... way too much for some damn projector lights. I wanted them too, until I read this. :thumbdown:


----------



## kimchi29 (Sep 15, 2008)

i think doing a retro is the way to go. you'll end up with more light output, better cutoff and more color, more customized look, and be at least 2k cheaper. im in the process of working on it right now. hopefully i get the ls430 projectors to fit


----------



## MySilver2010CC (Sep 21, 2010)

kimchi29 said:


> i think doing a retro is the way to go. you'll end up with more light output, better cutoff and more color, more customized look, and be at least 2k cheaper. im in the process of working on it right now. hopefully i get the ls430 projectors to fit


My sentiments exactly....:thumbup:


----------



## BoostedCC-R (Jul 8, 2010)

wow def not worth all that work IMO.


----------



## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

kimchi29 said:


> i think doing a retro is the way to go. you'll end up with more light output, better cutoff and more color, more customized look, and be at least 2k cheaper. im in the process of working on it right now. hopefully i get the ls430 projectors to fit


Someone has done a retro already. It's not fun opening up the housings.

LS430 will be too large of a projector


----------



## comcf (Aug 23, 2004)

Plenty of people have done this, myself included. You get a set of housings, ballasts, and bulbs. You get a harness from www.kufatec.de and follow the instructions from the Passat B6 forum. Done. No need for AFS controller or anything else. I'll be selling my full set soon. Pic of what it looks like (they're also Joey modded, i.e., blacked out inside):


----------



## kimchi29 (Sep 15, 2008)

BsickPassat said:


> Someone has done a retro already. It's not fun opening up the housings.
> 
> LS430 will be too large of a projector


Boo guess it will be s2k projectors


----------



## kimchi29 (Sep 15, 2008)

BsickPassat said:


> Someone has done a retro already. It's not fun opening up the housings.
> 
> LS430 will be too large of a projector


Yea I saw a diy for the mk6 retro diy and you cut in through the back plastic housing and not the lens cover. I'll be taking it to a shop to get it done.


----------



## Faramarz1 (May 13, 2010)

Wow! This is an overwhelming response.Thank you for sharing this info. I really didn't know that it would be this complicated to get this done. Maybe that's why my dealer didn't show any interest in respond to my request to change the whole headlights units to AFS Xenons. I really can't leave without the Xenons in this car. If I knew that enabling AFS would be almost impossible , I would have gone for the VR6. I just got my car 2 days ago. it was a 6 month project!. I will post the details in a separate post.


----------



## Faramarz1 (May 13, 2010)

comcf said:


> Plenty of people have done this, myself included. You get a set of housings, ballasts, and bulbs. You get a harness from www.kufatec.de and follow the instructions from the Passat B6 forum. Done. No need for AFS controller or anything else. I'll be selling my full set soon. Pic of what it looks like (they're also Joey modded, i.e., blacked out inside):






Looks good. How much was the overall cost?


----------



## fco_cantu (Oct 7, 2008)

*DIY anyone?*

I havent found any DIY for the CC... I'm wondering if it's worth the cost and if its an easy swap..

Anyone has done this? total price? total time?...

Thanks...


----------

