# Mk1 1Z/AHU M-TDI



## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

I have just picked up a 1998 AHU complete donor, and my plans are to swap the engine and trans in to my 1981 Jetta. I understand that the newer motor will accept all the same motor mounts from the 1.6D, but the trans mount may need to be fabbed up, which isn't a big deal really. Also I understand the new motor is a drive by wire and a cable shifted transmission.. I have the entire car, so I will have practically any part necessary from the mk3 side of things. 

A thought was brought to my mind.. converting the car to CE2, or using the entire harness from the 98 and put it in the 81.. both of these were brought to the front of my brain, but i know nothing of either, care to explain it to me? 

I will have (hopefully if I can get it going) another car to drive while this one takes the garage spot for a while.. so I will have to rip the interior apart to make the shifter happen as I have to cut out the old one.. and this one will need to be fit in there somehow *(anyone got a link as to how they have seen the cable shift adapted to an mk1?)*. 

Also on the pedal cluster, how does this work out? *(anyone cross over any good threads on this part either?)* I am still on the learning curve of a lot of this stuff as to how to get the engine operating properly in the mk1. The car is in my possession so I will begin to tinker around on it and figure out the TDI diesel side of things. I mean I am not a complete invalid I have researched a bit on how the TDI's function so I am good on that part. 

Also this engine has an A/c compressor and my car once had A/c.. could this be made to work out or what? I mean I guess there really is no reason why it couldn't work right? A couple fittings should hook things up nicely eh? Could I actually use the lines from the AHU engine? and run them in to the condenser in the car? 

The turbo spools up niiicely its starting its spool at like 1400 and is screaming by 23-2500, I'm very excited! 

I would appreciate every piece of information you have to provide! I have been doing lots of reading, but the same info twice is never a bad thing.. just makes understanding it easier Eh?  

Thanks so much guys, wish me luck on this project!!


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## deathhare. (Apr 1, 2008)

Sounds like a cool project. 
I hope you document it here even though I think this forum is the last place to ask for most of this info. :thumbup::thumbup:


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## ronnie_v (Jun 3, 2007)

Around here, people make the engine an M-TDI. They lose all the electronics, and just mount an mechanical pump. Of an old volkswagen LT, i believe.


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

A1 thanks man! just what I was looking for perfect. I was unaware that it was a combination of those swaps (1.8T, ABA, VR) that makes it easy to find some build threads as they are frequent swaps, and pick out all the information I need! Thank-you very much! I may very well just do a good compilation of all the info I find and make up an AHU->Mk1 thread. Yes the mk3 TDI (only came in 96 Passats and 97-98 Jetta's for mk3) were drive by wire, and ECU controlled. Which is actually a very good for the pump timing as it adjusts itself to a wide variety of timing numbers to have the best fueling and injection timing all the time. I was totally thinking of your piggy backing idea A1 but I don't think it will work quite the same way, as I think I may also need the mk3 cluster  Which is awesome because it has a tach! SCORE lol I will read through a couple really in depth swap threads and combine all the information I need, thanks a bunch. Also the condenser is all that is left of my current A/C it has had the compressor taken away some time ago. The old systems are upgradable to the new stuff no? this should be totally doable really, if you could just get the fittings right to hook the new compressor up to the old condenser no? Why are you against A/C? lol I think it would be a crazy luxury on a car with crank windows and manual locks   

Mr. Shanahan, it appears a good place to ask for the info as it seems to be just a bunch of Gasser stuff all in one. I asked here mainly for the volume of people that pass through the MK1 forum, easy to get someone who knows TDI stuff as well who is just passing through eh? It worked to pull A1 in with his infinite knowledge on swaps and other assorted tomfoolery  

Ronnie, Yeah I have read a bit on the M-TDI side of stuff, and I don't think it is a route I wish to go just yet. Maybe in the future I'd like to experiment with it. For now however a straight TDI swap seems easiest/cheapest for me, present time. 

*Few more questions regarding what I should keep off the donor, as the shell has to be gone A.S.A.P! 
* 

I will need; 



Engine and Trans 

All Engine Wiring (should I just keep the entire car wiring harness for the hell of it???) 

Fuse-box 

Cluster 

Engine Harness 

ECU 

Axles (I think I will need inner flanges to adapt to my axles?? if I am not mistaken??) 

Shifter cables as well as the shifter box 

 

Anyone see anything crucial I might be missing?


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## Rhetoric (Oct 6, 2007)

It looks like you're on the right path thus far with this build. :beer:


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

A1steaksauce said:


> late model cabriolets are not CE2 and will not plug and play into a MK3 fuse block :beer:


 Glad someone caught that. 

They are CE1:thumbup:


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## Rhetoric (Oct 6, 2007)

Huh, I learn something new everyday. I redact my original statement.


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## syracusegli (Jan 22, 2005)

depends on how much of the donor car comforts you would like to keep.. 

i would prolly swap everything.. simplify the wiring, swap all that.. i would swap the shift box to keep it hydraulic and mount the master cylinder somewheres.. 

vr did the hydro master swap cuz he put the vr in .. check his thread for an idea/example of what you could do..


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## the kevin (Feb 12, 2004)

i started a thread asking about about mk3 a/c in a mk1 about 6-8 months ago.. 


edit: 
here 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4799249-MK3-A-C-into-a-n-MK1&highlight=mk3+a/c


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## ronnie_v (Jun 3, 2007)

i build an 1.9 afn tdi in a mk1 golf last year. And i fitted an corrado gearbox to it, with cables. 
Took all the hydraulic stuff from the clutch-system off, and replaced the cilynder on the transmission with an mechanical part of an vw transporter ( t3). This way you can use the old clutch cable.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

A1steaksauce said:


> the clutch cable setup in this instance is crappy when you compare it to the hydro setup....very few people are rocking a cable setup for just that reason...i mean if you are going thru all the trouble to fab everything in what's a bracket and a couple of hydro lines?
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4592358-How-To-02a-Hydraulic-Clutch-setup-into-Blue.


 especially when eurospeed sells a kit


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## ultravw (Oct 27, 2009)

*MK1 TDI Projects*

I have swaped a 96 Passat TDI into a 81 rabbit truck but I did not use the o2A trans but the original o2o five speed and flywheel. The 81 AC brackets, alternator and motor mounts all bolt on with minor triming to the inner timing cover shield and modification to the engine cover support bracket. The Passat's throttle potentiometer was installed by modifing its plate to fit the A1 pedal cluster. I combined the Passat's schematic to the 81 truck's schematic. Not to many of the wires are needed to get it running properly, but this is not currently using the Passat's instrument cluster. 

I have another 96 Passat TDI setup I am planning to install in my 82 Rabbit truck and plan to use the 96 accessories and o2A trans so I would also like to know the best way to install the hydrolic cylinder and cable shifter as well as the transaxle mount.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

ultravw said:


> I have another 96 Passat TDI setup I am planning to install in my 82 Rabbit truck and plan to use the 96 accessories and o2A trans so I would also like to know the best way to install the hydrolic cylinder and cable shifter as well as the transaxle mount.


 Build or buy mounts, modify your pedal/ bracket or buy the eurospeed one.


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## vdubspeed (Jul 19, 2002)

eurospeed's 02a hydro clutch sucks. 

Buy a welder, learn to fab your own shiz. 

Some people like the clutch 02a but I HATED it. I used a eurovan and honda cable and never got it to feel good. I have a hydro clutch with an 02j and it feels great. 

Your a/c might be an issue if the compressor hits the crossmember like an ABA. I know I had to do some extensive work to keep the a/c in my 1.8t rabbit but damns it's nice to have 263whp and a/c. 

Diesel swap is cake especically if the car is already a diesel. DO NOT swap the entire harness just for the engine on a diesel. If all the car stuff works(lights, wipers, cluster, etc) then just splice in the engine. 

I've never done a 1.9 swap but I've done a lot of other swaps and like someone mentioned already...a 1.9 is will be like mixing some other swaps so generally searching will help. 

HTH, 

Jason


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

A1steaksauce said:


> apparently some have missed the link i was posting :laugh:
> 
> here's, in my opinion, the best way to go about doing so:
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4592358-How-To-02a-Hydraulic-Clutch-setup-into-Blue


 reading is for dummies :thumbup:


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## hillgiant (Nov 1, 2008)

A zero-rewire* solution is to find an AAZ fuel pump and get it converted to M-TDI. There are at least two companies that will handle the conversion if you send them a core. Then it is a matter of attaching a gear and getting a belt to it. M-TDI is not likely to be as efficient as the drive by wire setup. But overall, I think the installation would be easier if the car is already diesel. 

*almost zero: fan switch, glow plugs, and whatever instrumentation you want need to be sorted.


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## glx2.8 (Jan 24, 2007)

thought about doing this swap myself over the winter into my cabby, but my OG motor gave out before then so i just said to hell with it ill toss in a 20vt 

since you are in ontario, you may want to talk to cliff at ESS, he is just finishing up my 1.8t swap into my mk1... 

yes the O2A needs a modified mount, i know where you can get one. 

i didn't think ahu tdis were drive by wire but thats just me, i can take some pictures but like i said before talk to cliff at ESS because he changed my car to drive by cable as opposed to drive by wire. 
:thumbup:


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

Hey guys thanks for all the replies, 

I know the engine can be modified to drive by cable by fitting a mechanical TDI pump to it, but i dont think its something I want to do.. as it will be just as much work as fitting the drive by wire pedal I'm sure. LOL 

I have decided to keep the car for the time being, and do some off the road work on my 81 before I take this engine


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

ok so i have a few more questions on just how deep i should go with this swap!!

A friend of mine who is pretty fluent on MK3's said that if I don't keep the antitheft part of the harness the ECU will go in to a sort of lock-down mode when the system is not disarmed when the doors are unlocked.. SO! i was thinking..

If I'm gonna do this.. I think I should really do this :beer: 

Maybe I should swap the FULL CE2 harness.. Right down to the cluster & power locks.. Ehh ehh?? Maybe I should even keep the dash.. for further possibilities??? That would be pretty cool to do as well down the line... 

I mean it would essentially make the electrical part of the swap a ton easier.. more work, but easier work really I think. Label every thing and then run it through the 81, then meter out what does what.. one at a time eh? The only one I seeing giving trouble is the cabin fan motor and the brake lights .. *How will the mk1 pedal cluster and brake switch trigger the mk3 wiring? What would be involved at swapping the whole pedal cluster over?? *

glx2.8 I will be pm'ng you following this post  on that tranny mount. Also I don't think there is anyway to go about modifying the TDI drive by wire to cable other than making it an M-TDI.

The axle ends will come off the mk3 axles and go on the mk1 axles in the car correct? to get that all in order as well.. just trying to cover my bases before i get to deep on this. 

thanks people!


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## 4000stq (Apr 8, 2004)

8v-of-fury said:


> ok so i have a few more questions on just how deep i should go with this swap!!
> 
> A friend of mine who is pretty fluent on MK3's said that if I don't keep the antitheft part of the harness the ECU will go in to a sort of lock-down mode when the system is not disarmed when the doors are unlocked.. SO! i was thinking..
> 
> ...


looks like this project will be way over your head, good luck anyway.


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

aww really? come on be supportive not negative. 

How am I supposed to learn anything if I never ask any questions? Yes this thread has been useful in that it has answered a lot of questions of mine, especially you A1. Thank-you for your knowledge.

Sure those things may be stupid but it would be fun to do it, have an alarm system / Central Locking in a sh!tty 81 Jetta!?!? Can't you see the awesome behind this? :laugh:

I was unaware that the mk3 still used just a plain switch to send power to the brake lights.. seems to me a relay should have been used for the three brake lights it has. I may not be as knowledgeable on wiring as yourself there A1, but I'm still only a year-half young at doing wiring. So forgive my incompetence. I argued the point to him that it should be an easy solution to get the anti theft system out of the equation.. only reason i thought he was correct is because i thought the anti-theft was part of the ECU. 

This simplifies a few things really well then.  Thank you

Now I need your insight on which route to start with.. I mean swapping in the full shebam to begin with is a lot at once, and I don't have a welder just yet (on my wish list) so metal fab is tricky to accomplish.. so what i was thinking would be to mate the 1.9 to the 020 to start with.. maintain the stock speedo, stock cluster really. Upon thinking however, the wiring swap will not leave anything for the cluster to plug in too.. JEsus.. 

New Game Plan. gonna have to do it all at once. Engine, Trans, CE2, Cluster, Shifter, Clutch.

I've seen and read good methods on how to do the clutch so that shouldn't be too much trouble.. gonna have to borrow a welder. The Shifter looks interesting, Funksoulkitty did an excellent job of mounting hers. to me from her pics it looks like she mounted it up through the bottom then used that cross brace to hold it up and in? Interesting. Mind you she is using a 02J, which may or may not be different then the 02A shifter..










Is this really enough to hold that whole assembly in there without any rear bracing??

Engine mounts, the front and passenger one from the original 1.6 diesel will fit yes? trimmed to just bolt to the block i think i have seen. what about the tranny mount on the back of the engine? How will this bolt up?

@4000 you never tackle a big project you never tried before? or did you just know how to do everything from the start? myself, I gotta start somewhere. Might as well be a challenge no?


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## einszwei (Oct 24, 2008)

*what about in a vw T3*

I have a 1.9TDI engnie to swap a volkswagen T3, any information about what gearbox can be running????


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## 4000stq (Apr 8, 2004)

not using the TDI trans from the mk3 would be dumb. the 02a trans is stronger and has taller gears. running the 020 (assuming, an FN or FH)you would be limited (by RPM) to about 90mph depending on tire size . the only reason not to run the 02a would be if you couldn't find/afford one. but you have the whole car so.....


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## Shawn B (Nov 27, 2003)

vdubspeed said:


> Buy a welder, learn to fab your own shiz.
> 
> Some people like the clutch 02a but I HATED it. I used a eurovan and honda cable and never got it to feel good. I have a hydro clutch with an 02j and it feels great.


I run a custom built tranny mount and no rear mount with my O2J set up. Also using the the hydro to cable adapter with the Honda clutch cable. My clutch feels fine.


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

no rear mount eh? Only run the two sides and the front? Isn't that kind of sketchy? I mean i'm not saying it is as I have no idea.. but what holds all the torquing from the engine? 

Cable Clutch seems to be an alright option as well really. what is all required here? haven't come across any definitive answers on it really. 

@4000 I agree with you %100, it would be dumb to run the old outdated 020 that will detonate under the %280 increase in torque.. :laugh:

Engine, Trans, Shifter, Clutch, CE2, Cluster. Hefty. 

EDIT: Upon further looking upon the cable clutch... holy expensive! Seems for the price its worth tackling a hydro setup.. Doesn't seem too hard. Just gotta get me a welder!


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## 4000stq (Apr 8, 2004)

not running a rear mount is a bad idea with the mk1 mount setup, esp with a diesel. not hard to fab up


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## wantacad (Apr 4, 2003)

Somebody was bored and searching 02a's :laugh:


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

4000stq said:


> not running a rear mount is a bad idea with the mk1 mount setup, esp with a diesel. not hard to fab up


rear mount looks like it could easily be made up with 4-5 pieces of mild steel fairly easily.. dunno why it would be left out when it holds all the rear rotation of the engine when torquing. but hey, to each his own. 

yes I am bored, at least I'm using the search!! :laugh:


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## Shawn B (Nov 27, 2003)

8v-of-fury said:


> no rear mount eh? Only run the two sides and the front? Isn't that kind of sketchy? I mean i'm not saying it is as I have no idea.. but what holds all the torquing from the engine?





4000stq said:


> not running a rear mount is a bad idea with the mk1 mount setup, esp with a diesel. not hard to fab up



This is with an 02J tranny and the aluminum MKIV upright. I am using a custom tranny mount that has been welded into the frame rail and reinforced. Haven't had a problem other than the stock MKIV threads in the upright are fine and I re-tapped them to a coarser threaded grade 8 bolt. I am also using polyurethane bushings in it. And yes, NO rear mount.


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## 4000stq (Apr 8, 2004)

Shawn B said:


> This is with an 02J tranny and the aluminum MKIV upright. I am using a custom tranny mount that has been welded into the frame rail and reinforced. Haven't had a problem other than the stock MKIV threads in the upright are fine and I re-tapped them to a coarser threaded grade 8 bolt. I am also using polyurethane bushings in it. And yes, NO rear mount.





4000stq said:


> not running a rear mount is a bad idea with the *mk1 mount setup*, esp with a diesel. not hard to fab up


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## Shawn B (Nov 27, 2003)

4000stq said:


>



All I did was emphasize that I was not running a typical mount set up and more importantly, explain what I am running


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

I mean if it is equally supported elsewhere I suppose it is perfectly fine right? How much does the engine torque back in the bay when revving it? Just curious on the other possibilities of this setup. I will probably go with a rear mount of sorts, but its interesting to learn all the angles. 

Also at this point I am just thinking of all the little things that may snag me up come D-Day. Just noticed looking back at a picture, will the two wires that come from the fuel tank sender unit work with the 98 cluster and such? 

Also on the cabin fan, I suppose this can be self relayed by me, or is it already? 

Headlights will be relayed, and possibly upgraded to Halogen bulbs instead of sealed beams.


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

Dear A1 I've got a few more questions for ya buddy  and for others who know this ish as well. Today I commenced taking apart the front end and removing the engine wiring harness. Labelling every single vacuum hose, plug, and connector.

Had to shut down shop and wait out a rain lol 

























But there are a few things (which I'm sure are essential as part of the swap) that I just don't have names for, or have no idea on their function. So if you wouldn't mind helping me out a little bit that'd be great. 

First off these two switches i'm guessing, both have rubber lines going to them. I believe the left ones lines go down to the cold side of the turbo, and the others go to the intake tract. what are they and what is their purpose? They are slated to make the swap with the engine.










The next is this little guy that used to reside up near the coolant bottle, and has to vacuum lines running in to it. One from the vacuum pump and the other goes in to the cabin with the coolant lines on the firewall. What does it do? 










Next question is how do i disconnect this monster!? It looks as though it is a connector for most of the front of the engines electrical sources, a very good idea in my mind, one easy connector.. whole engine should be this way. One connector takes the engine off the harness . I tried pulling, and twisting, I gave up for fear of busting it.










Which leaves me with about thirty more questions sadly no pictures though.. 

Rad sensor and fan wiring, I was thinking to be honest the easiest way of doing this would be to fab up some way to mount the mk3 rad in the 81, as then i would be able to plug and play literally everything. Temp sensor, fan wiring, and the hoses would plumb right up. I was also thinking of using the mk3 coolant bottle as well so that way I could maintain the coolant level device of the ECU. There is some module of sorts underneath the coolant bottle that I have no idea what it is for.. What is its purpose as well? 

For the lines that that go from the vacuum pump and then to the switched device, can I use this to supply vacuum to my 81 HVAC??

The brake fluid level checker and brake fluid reservoir. will the reservoir fit on the on the 81's master? as it would make it easier to run the hydro clutch and all that junk I would think. 

How do I go about removing the A/c Compressor and power steering pump? I think the Power steering is the only thing on the V belt? or is the WP on there too? Will the alt need a new bracket to fit on the engine without the a/c pump there? Or can it be cut and modified to make work minus the A/c.. ? 

What sort of complications will I run in to by weeding out the A/c wiring? Will the ECU see it as a problem? 

Also on swapping the car over to complete CE2, what about for the headlight switch? that is a very different switch.. how will there wiring interface? and such? 

that concludes it for today I guess. thanks guys! Get back to me love to hear some feedback.. ! :beer:


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## violentaesthete (Oct 27, 2008)

you should pm radojon about this swap, he has one done. not quite sure if it is m-tdi tho.


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

A1 you never cease to amaze  thanks man. 

One question in there though that wasn't answered. The Alt bracket, will I need to source a non A/c one? or can I just cut and modify the one from the engine to take off the A/C compressor mounting area? Also what happens when I unbolt the coolant lines? I mean I know the coolant is going to come out, but will it come out like crazy? is it hazardous? what do i do? Never dealt with A/c systems. 

Mk1 rad and fan it is then. It shouldn't be too hard to use the mk3 bottle though and the included features.

Yes I have read over Vdubspeed's and Funksoulkitty's threads several times and understand what needs to be done in terms of the hydro clutch setup. I only ask about the mk3 reservoir because it has the nipple on it for the clutch to take its fluid from. I guess fabbing up any little bottle that will hold some fluid for the clutch cylinder eh.

I was unaware of the wiring being exactly the same between mk1/mk3 headlight switch and the rest. Nifty that they kept it the same eh? Sounds good to me! 

Tuesday/Wednesday will be the days I hopefully get all the wiring out of the car and start prepping for engine removal (axles, DP, etc junk) 

Oh also on a side note, this engine seems to have a little oil in the boost pipes, i think i will need to be installing a oil catch can and or possibly deleting the EGR system altogether.. as it will be going in an 81 that needs no emissions.

Thanks guys! :beer:


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## funnee84bunny (Jul 30, 2007)

this thread has lots of good starting points....

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=142679

you could start by hammering the dimple into your ps frame rail that you'll need eventually.


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## funnee84bunny (Jul 30, 2007)

A1steaksauce said:


> i skimmed a few of the diesel swaps and no one was doing this. i know there is zero issue with the alt tensioner fitment in the aba swaps and from what i gather zero issue in the diesel ones as well.


skimming and reading aren't the same unfortunately. taken from the first thread in the link I posted above. I've seen this swap personally twice, and the clearance issue came up as well. 



MrDave said:


> When I put the engine in, I ran into clearance problems with the tensioner for the serpentine belt. A block of wood and a good motivator (read: 2lb sledge) cleared the frame rail for everything to fit.


http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?789621-The-Rabbit-TDI-Project-Part-2-Intalling-the-Engine


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## puebla (Sep 9, 2003)

TheBurninator said:


> reading is for dummies.





:laugh:


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

I dunno if it matters or not the Mr.Dave is swapping an ALH? possibly different setup? 

Either way thank-you to both of you, I will most likely clearance that whole lip on the frame-rail anyway to make sure T-belts in the future aren't a hoe. 

Also A1 I think the tails should be straight forward, make a little test to see what plug end wires do what on both, write it down and splice. Just so long as all the harder shhhtuff will match I'm set lol

I read in a thread about how some guy actually used the entire brake setup from the mk3 and swapped it all over, (pedal cluster, booster, MC the whole works) This is probably more than I need to do though I think.

I got the axles out lastnight and was planning on having the coolant out too but the axles took a little longer than expected.. so what can you do right? lol


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

A1 man, come on! Those were informative posts!! whatthefook.


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

anyway,

i have read that the mk3 drums are a step up over the mk1 stuffs (200mm>180mm), and cross referencing ETKA shows the axle stubs for the two to be the same. So what it looks like to me is that one would only need to swap over the back plate and hardware.. yes? 

Totally upgrading  

Also how do you feel about mk3 seats in an mk1? gotta shorten the seat track.. but its doable. I already have mk2 seats in there.. worth the trouble to go to mk3 seats?


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## puebla (Sep 9, 2003)

8v-of-fury said:


> A1 man, come on! Those were informative posts!! whatthefook.




Yes, go on.....


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

I had to show some mad love to my mk1&2 today, so I did not get ANYTHING done on the TDI  

Mk1 needed a bunch of **** to pass a last minute Certification tomorrow and the mk2 needed brakes all around.. Took up my whole day.  fook


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## funnee84bunny (Jul 30, 2007)

another person to pm about this swap; tongboy. I gave him a mk1 shell he swapped a tdi into...he's all over the pnw forums....


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## RAINWAGEN (Sep 25, 2008)

I was gunna do the same swap and have decided it was not what I wanted. a 2.0aba16vt should be much more fun. 
a local shop finetuning in Washington has done a lot of tdi swaps u can email them questions thru the site. the owner is building his own big turbo scirocco tdi as we speak 170hp ish ask for cris he's on here too so that's who is talk to


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## puebla (Sep 9, 2003)

funnee84bunny said:


> another person to pm about this swap; tongboy. I gave him a mk1 shell he swapped a tdi into...he's all over the pnw forums....



Hmmmmm..... nice.


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

RAINWAGEN said:


> a 2.0aba16vt should be much more fun.


Don't get me wrong, that sounds a totally richeous engine.. I just hate the inefficiency of gas engines... Anything under 40mpg is heinous and can suck it  I had tons of fun with the 1.6 N/A.. almost 2x the HP and almost 3x the TQ... I think I'm still gonna have loads of fun Don't you? lol



What is needed to be done to make the mk1 axles mate with the mk3 inner cv's exactly? I have read there is grinding needed, I have also read direct swap.. nothing definitive, whats the deal?


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

On using the rear brakes from the 98 on the 81.. It looks as though the back plate and actually brake hardware (shoes, springs, bearings) is all that is needed to make the swap, as the stub axle is the same part.

EGR deletion.. I pulled off the intake tube to have a look and the dreaded blackness is taking over my intake with a litle over %25 i'd say of blocakge.. How is this deleted.. almost looks likt one or two blocking plates on the back of the intake.. Confirmation? 

thanks for reading


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## puebla (Sep 9, 2003)

funnee84bunny said:


> another person to pm about this swap; tongboy.




:beer:


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## funnee84bunny (Jul 30, 2007)

yeah, I only met him the day I gave him the car. Super cool cat. I think he ended up putting the tdi in a mk2 though...... he still made it look good in a mk1 though for a bit.:thumbup:

this was how we met
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...s-a-free-shell-super-good-body-no-motor-trans


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

how do i delete the EGR? 

Also what is all involved in swapping of the brakes ?? just hardware swapping?


----------



## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

Anybody??


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## Baron VonZeppelin (Apr 16, 2008)

On the brakes, leave everything together on the backing plates. 
Undo the eBrake cables (adjust them all the way out to create slack), and hyd brake lines. 
Remove the backing plate assys and bolt them onto your 81. 
Hook up the eBrake cables and hyd lines. 
Repack the wheel bearings. 
Bleed, and fine tune the eBrake adjustment. 

The backing plates, drums, shoes, and about half the springs are dfrnt 180 vs 200. 
The upside to 180 is new drums are only $8 each. 


What is the ring&pinion - and the 5th - on your TDI 02a tranny ?


----------



## puebla (Sep 9, 2003)

8v-of-fury said:


> Anybody??


 


opcorn:


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

does anyone know where the Trans ID is o nthe 02A transmissions? I can't seem to figure out what trans I have.. thanks


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## deathhare. (Apr 1, 2008)

Not sure if this helps but it should be pretty obvious. 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4684026


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## crsmp5 (May 26, 2005)

i just picked up a $600 98 jetta tdi toady.. i am going tdi-m with it as the current fuel pump = junk.. 

i even worked a deal for a landrover tdi pump... rumor is thats the pump to use.. now gotta reserch it and what i gotta do.. 

inital install will be into my rusty test bead winter beater 81 coupe.. then after i get it all sorted and such ill rotessery my 84 rust free coupe (and do a full rebuild of the tdi too).. and do it with the 98 style mounts and so on.. 

i plan to keep the 02a and hydro set up.. i also plan to keep the ac which is why i am using the 98 style mounting.. rattle free..  vs stock mk1 as ac weighs too much. and the good ac diesel motor mount is NLA.. . 

i put a tdi into a 90 jetta back in 02 for someone.. this one is mine...


on your brake qustion.. the 98 is a 200mm set up.. you will need to rember this as pree 90 200mm are different then 98 ones.. the back plate is too.. gotta keep them matched up.. but yes they are bolt on... for the fronts.. you best off with a pair of caliper cariers from a audi 4000 quattro.. they are a direct fit.. bolt caliper to them and they fit right onto the mk1 hub/wheel bearing assembly.. no adapters, no screwing around making mk3 ones fit mk1 stuff..

egr = check engine light... gotta figure out the crack to keep it turned off.. another reason for tdi-m.. 

i plan to cut and mod my set up to eleminate it.. else euro intake manifold and block off on exhaust..


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## 2mAn (Oct 15, 2006)

8v-of-fury said:


> how do i delete the EGR?



http://www.dieselgeek.com/servlet/Categories?category=TDI+Race+Pipe+&+EGR

get back to work...


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## puebla (Sep 9, 2003)

8v-of-fury said:


> Anybody??




Yes.


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## IronGTi (Jan 2, 2002)

did you get the harness that goes from the Cluster to the fuse box? easy one to miss..... ask me how i know....


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

crsmp5 said:


> i just picked up a $600 98 jetta tdi toady.. i am going tdi-m with it as the current fuel pump = junk..
> 
> i even worked a deal for a landrover tdi pump... rumor is thats the pump to use.. now gotta reserch it and what i gotta do..
> 
> ...


Yeah TDI in a Mk1 seems like a good power-to-weight ratio. Yeah the stub axles are the same part number right through.. so it seems the backing plates and hardware should bolt right up. Good luck on the M-TDI :beer:



2mAn said:


> http://www.dieselgeek.com/servlet/Categories?category=TDI+Race+Pipe+&+EGR
> 
> get back to work...


Thank you very-much good sir  So from what I can gather there is a coolant pre-heater back there as well? All I want to stop is the blow-by going in to the intake.. which do i choose??!!?? lol



IronGTi said:


> did you get the harness that goes from the Cluster to the fuse box? easy one to miss..... ask me how i know....


I DO! Little harness with a red and white connector.  I actually have questions here, I was thinking of doing a full CE2.. but I think it will be too much all at once and un-necessary to do so really. So what I revised was to do A1's piggy backing of the fuse-box, and only run the engine harness and cluster for my swap.. That will really be easiest to me, the cluster and new box will handle the engine and the old box will handle the rest of the inner car stuff.

I was thinking of the Drive By Wire setup, and some people have had success of using the entire pedal assembly from the mk3. I'll have to rip it to really get a good mind-grip on it. 

OMG I CAN'T WAIT


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## puebla (Sep 9, 2003)

In for later.



Notes: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=142679


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## crsmp5 (May 26, 2005)

do yourself a favor.. do the ce2.. splice in the lights/heater.... you will want to use the tdi wiprer/turn so you can use the cruise too.. actually.. a mk2 pre 88 cruise turn stalk will also work.. 

there is way more screw up ability trying to splice in the engine harness then lights/heater... lights/heater tend to share same color wires even  i did ce2 into my 81 coupe.. took me like 4 hours to splice all the fusebox plugs into the original harness just do 1 harness at a time.. have bently diagrams.. 

next.. just did a 89 jetta ce2 meld with a 96 passat tdi and 98 jetta tdi harness... aka all ce2.. 1 issue you will find with it all is lack of wiring info on the check engine light.. its missing in the bently... 

if you dewired the tdi properly and reuse all its wiring.. this will be non issue as again.. lights/heat simple..


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

Big night last night,

I got the engine pulled, clutch cylinder out, and the wiring harness and fuse-box out. All that is left is the Drive by wire module, shifter and cables, rear brakes. 

However, I went a little gung-hoe in taking the wiring harness out of the car.. I disconnected almost all the fuse box before i thought to myself.. sh!ttt labels! likely though I thought to myself I am only keeping the engine side of the stuff.. so it shouldn't really be too complicated to get it all sorted out. The only inside car stuff I will be using is mounting the fuse box above the other one (A1steaksauce's method), the wiring up to the cluster, and the wiring to the ignition switch. 

Also a quick question about the rest of the wiring in the harness, I am somewhat strapped for time, as this is being done in my driveway.. and winter is quickly approaching! lol motor in and at least able to be moved around would be good. If I simply just cut off the ends for the stuff I do not use.. (A/c stuff, heater stuff, airbag stuff, door lock stuff, headlight stuff, fan stuff, rear window defroster..) Will it throw any codes from the ECU? or does it mainly just manage engine related stuff on CEL basis? I would love to remove every wire i do not use.. But i feel it would be more set to my time limit to just hack off ends and leave them in the harness.. no? 

*If anyone has wiring diagrams for the 1998 Jetta TDI, I would greatly appreciate it! :beer:*

I think the only other issue now is.. mounting the clutch cylinder, mounting shifter, and fabbing engine mounts.

thanks a bunch guys.


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## IronTrap (Jun 14, 2001)

get a mk3 bentley. it shows in the bentley what each plug in the back of the fusebox is for. if you are doing the piggyback method, you only need the plugs for the engine harness, the 2 plugs/harnesses for the cluster/gauges, and the power/ground wires. Everything else you can trash. leave all of your stock body wiring in place on the mk1.

but really, with a swap like this, you need to stop and buy a bentley first and foremost.. some of these questions you are asking would be simply answered if you did a little reading first..


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## crsmp5 (May 26, 2005)

instrument cluster not so good to "wire in" i am serious when i say bently screwed the pooch on this.. it really lacks the info you seek.. i am serious.. 

http://tech.bentleypublishers.com/thread.jspa?threadID=40723&tstart=0

and

http://www.haywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/TDI/1996_Jetta_TDI_wiring_LONG4.pdf

rember i just went thru this this past weekend...


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## throttle grotto (Oct 30, 2000)

When I did my TDI swap, I mounted the shifter box from the top, to make it sit a little higher on the car,and only had to do minor trimming of the floor and the box to make a good fit. Then ran the cables through the auto trans shifter hole in the firewall. I had to make one hole right next to it for the second cable. 

I used to have pics of how I solved the pedal scenario. I used a 96 tdi passat pedal, and since they use a separate potentiometer from the pedal, I mounted the PT to the firewall, and built a little box to hold it, and then removed the top of the pedal on the passat and welded it to the rabbit pedal. It has a slider adjustment on it to take up a little slack, and then just bent the pedal to suit my needs. I seem to remember that I grumbled about it while doing it, but it's worked fine for 4 years or so. 

I used the whole mk3 wiring harness,fuse box, etc., and mounted the sensor for the interior fan wiring in the vent tube to the passenger side of the dash. Had to splice on a bunch of plugs, but the end result was a massive improvement to the brightness of all the lights on the exterior. IIRC, I ran a 90 cabby rear taillight harness, as it was a direct plug-in to the fuse box. You could use a mk2 CE2 harness as well. I do remember that the dash wiring was a pain to figure out from the bentley, but I went from MK3 to Mk1, if you used a mk2 dash and mk3 cluster, it would be pretty easy to mix/match harnesses and make it all factory.

I'll try and remember some of the other tricks I did when doing the swap.


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## daunicorn (Apr 20, 2005)

Watchin this one, like to see how you do your clutch set up. Im going to have to tackle this when I can have my rabbit back with me at my next duty station.


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## puebla (Sep 9, 2003)

Hypa-R 1.8t said:


> Watchin this one, like to see how you do your clutch set up. Im going to have to tackle this when I can have my rabbit back with me at my next duty station.



same here, really interested. Cheers.


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

crsmp5 said:


> instrument cluster not so good to "wire in" i am serious when i say bently screwed the pooch on this.. it really lacks the info you seek.. i am serious..
> 
> http://tech.bentleypublishers.com/thread.jspa?threadID=40723&tstart=0
> 
> ...


Hey man thanks for the helpful links! But I am not simply wiring in the cluster to the mk1 harness, I am wiring it alongside the mk1 harness. I will be keeping all the in car stuff on the old fuse box (ie. cabin fan, interior lights, headlights(relayed), pretty much everything but the engine lol), and running the mk3 fuse box above it with it running the engine, ECU, and cluster.. completely separate from the other fuse box. Search A1steaksauce and his method of piggy backing, a good method.



lagomorph said:


> When I did my TDI swap, I mounted the shifter box from the top, to make it sit a little higher on the car,and only had to do minor trimming of the floor and the box to make a good fit. Then ran the cables through the auto trans shifter hole in the firewall. I had to make one hole right next to it for the second cable.
> 
> *This I think is gonna be what I will do, as I kinda like the fact of not reaching to the floor to shift gears . I made this mistake in my first mk1, I cut the shifter 4"  lol Still driving it and still regretting it lol. Seems a lot easier than mounting it up from the bottom.. plus it will allow a bigger exhaust down the tunnel i would think. At least easier routing. *
> 
> ...





Hypa-R 1.8t said:


> Watchin this one, like to see how you do your clutch set up. Im going to have to tackle this when I can have my rabbit back with me at my next duty station.


I will most likely do what Funksoulkitty or vdubspeed (I think..?) did and fab a bracket on the stock pedal to push the clutch cylinder in. 



puebla said:


> same here, really interested. Cheers.


:beer: Do you have a swap planned as well Puebla?


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## deathhare. (Apr 1, 2008)

Have you considered not doing the cable shift on the 02a and using that grasshopper rod shifter set up?
I would imagine it feels a lot better than the crappy cable shifters. Ive always disliked those.
Ive always preferred the rod shift action and now plan to use it on my own 02a.


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

Yeah I did not like the cable shift when i drove this car for a month before dismantling it.. Every gear was a guess-shift.. Could be 3rd.. could be 5th.. hell.. 1st was sometimes reverse... Without having to push down! 

Do explain Shannon  I am all ears.


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

glad to have you back in here A1, I will accept your debate 

True I have only driven a cable shift for a month, and it seems the one I have has worn bushings or something.. because there is a lot of play at the transmission that does not translate in to the cables.. So as you say a properly adjusted (read:new bushings and adjustment) will more than likely yield better results than a rod shift, that will need adjustment.. and more money spent.. I already have the entire cable setup right? lol 

For the amount of time and effort to mount and adjust the cable shift.. I think it would be much better off than buying a rod kit.. however i am open to discussion. 

I still have a few more things to strip from the donor before i get rid of it.. im excited lol


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## daunicorn (Apr 20, 2005)

> Hypa-R 1.8t
> Watchin this one, like to see how you do your clutch set up. Im going to have to tackle this when I can have my rabbit back with me at my next duty station.


Ill need to look to see what they did. Im hoping the o2a and 2.0t wont be to heavy for the coils / front end.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

cable>linkage/rod


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## crsmp5 (May 26, 2005)

ill add to debate on cable shift.. 

on the tdi-m i am building i hope to one day pull over 200hp and over 300ft-lbs of torque.. 

sadly the built ff 020 in my rocket has in it now i doubt will stay together with this combo.. 

also i doubt the 210mm clutch set up will allow for all the torque.. 

also i doubt the stock front panel will either.. 

so solution to my dreams.. 

02a thats built with mk3 style mounts fabbed into the mk1 coupe.. 

this allows for a few things... 

stronger front panel for the torque.. also later mounts for almost vibration free mk1 engine that will have ac... 

biggest baddest vr6/tdi clutch set up i can pull off so it may last

hydro clutch so i can drive it in town.. 

to me cable set up sux.. hate how they feel.. but i know the car can stay together.. yes ill be a mad little metal worker to do it but end result will be a platform i can use all its awsome diesel power to its max


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

see that makes no sense to me..the mounts to make my TDi 02J fit were simple, i run all BFI stg2 mounts and the rear delrin and it's awesome, i am cable clutch with a southbend stg5 with slipper disc and it's only 30% stiff than stock at most? feels greta, easy to drive and with 360+ft.lbs at the wheel and over 400whp it's held up to constant abuse for 2 years. 16v rocco axles, stock outer cv's, tdi inner cv's. bolts up, plenty of space.

all i had to do was lengthen(add to raise) the shiftknob, but i also did the TT weight and lower shifter to shorten the throw. it's great. heat wrapped my cables and good to go. never go back to linkage, EVER:beer::thumbup:


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## throttle grotto (Oct 30, 2000)

here's mine , turned out great.


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## crsmp5 (May 26, 2005)

well vw quit making the timming belt end mount for a mk1 diesel with ac.. its not the same as rest.. it had some special rubber compound and using the "other" does not hold up the same and will cause vibrations... 

now if it was to lack ac.. issue would not be so bad.. but same token to get the mk3 ac comp to fit the front panel also will require mods to fit.. 

another thing to adding mk2/3 stle mounts is frame horn support.. yea ive got a lower autotech 4pt stress baron it.. but adding mounts to the top of the framehorns for the engine to bolt to will also give more reinforcement.. ive seen them break/crack 

so yes it my not make sence to my above reasons why.. but i am looking for long long life.. ive owned the car for 15 years now.. got it tattooed on my leg even.. its not leving my life till my life leves me pretty much.. one day ill get 2+hp from it.. the next stae wold be 300 after that

crunchy's is so perty...


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## deathhare. (Apr 1, 2008)

8v-of-fury said:


> Yeah I did not like the cable shift when i drove this car for a month before dismantling it.. Every gear was a guess-shift.. Could be 3rd.. could be 5th.. hell.. 1st was sometimes reverse... Without having to push down!
> 
> Do explain Shannon  I am all ears.


I agree on the cable weirdness. I bought a brand new 97 gti vr6 and put over 100,000 miles on that car. That whole time I disliked the cable shift and dont think that opinion will ever change.

I have to use it I will but am fairly decided Im gonna try to use this on my car.

http://cgi.ebay.de/VW-Golf-1-Einbau...le_ohne_Strassenzulassung&hash=item4cf0ea202f


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

if your doing a swap..you should expect to lose creature comforts and not be so picky about vibration from a newer motor into an older chassis ya know?

i thought the discussion was about the a MKIII/IV TDi into a MKI with a cable shift setup?


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

lol opcorn::beer:


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

lagomorph said:


> here's mine , turned out great.


That looks great, I can only wish for such a cherry setup  sadly mine will be a dirty oil-burner in a ratty mk1 lol. I do not give one rats butt for cosmetics.. lol but dayyyyum that looks incredible. :beer:



crsmp5 said:


> well vw quit making the timing belt end mount for a mk1 diesel with ac.. its not the same as rest.. it had some special rubber compound and using the "other" does not hold up the same and will cause vibrations...
> 
> *I have an mk1 diesel mount with a Heavy Duty mount already pressed in and ready to go*
> 
> ...





deathhare. said:


> I agree on the cable weirdness. I bought a brand new 97 gti vr6 and put over 100,000 miles on that car. That whole time I disliked the cable shift and dont think that opinion will ever change.
> 
> I have to use it I will but am fairly decided Im gonna try to use this on my car.
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.de/VW-Golf-1-Einbau...le_ohne_Strassenzulassung&hash=item4cf0ea202f


Danng, that's outta my budget by about 96 euros . I mean this linkage is quite sloppy, and maybe a rebuild will improve it to what its meant to be. Hopefully. lol



Vegeta Gti said:


> if your doing a swap..you should expect to lose creature comforts and not be so picky about vibration from a newer motor into an older chassis ya know?
> 
> i thought the discussion was about the a MKIII/IV TDi into a MKI with a cable shift setup?


Creature comforts? what are those? The only creature comfort in my 81 is the 91 seats I have in it  the old seats had a very wide a$$ed person in the driver seat for several hundred thousand km's lol.



A1steaksauce said:


> no, this thread is now about swaybars and aba motors on carbs.
> 
> do try to keep up :beer: :laugh:


swaybars, mad camber, stretched tires, coilovers, and maybe a stupid coke-a-cola cooler on my vintage roof rack? 

Hahhh! no way. Stock ride height, stock camber, stock toe, Performance struts/shocks, and 185/60/14's on snowflakes please 

How do you guys feel about the urethane bushing kits for mk1's? I have heard very good reviews for them, and I think they will compliment the mono-tube suspension I have planned out.


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## puebla (Sep 9, 2003)

wantacad said:


> Somebody was bored and searching 02a's




more pics please.


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## crsmp5 (May 26, 2005)

well aol dropped the free webspace i had pics of it on since 01... used to be on jwetly's jetta section if his forum even exists anymore.. and i just dumped my server.. so no pics at the moment.. 

ahhh building a tdi-m with 02a... so my posts count..  just have not decided if i want to stuff it into my 81 dd coupe or my 84 rot free/sunroof/air coupe really want to rotesery it 1st (the og paint is dead).. but damb tempting to just do it and drive it for now.. 

if you look for massive hp/torque in a mk1.. they tend to pull the front mount out of the body in the core support.. and yep.. rear will take more too.. and no reason to have a rattly diesel when mk2/3 refined it so much.. love my b3 1.6td passat wagon due to this.. 

you got one of the few mounts then... been nla for at least 8 years (they tend to sell rabbit w/ac as diesel w/ac but its not the same).. i built a guy a 1.6td caddy with ac and all he would do is bitch abt the vibration due to the stupid nla diesel w/ac mount.. rember turbo adds weight to that mount he actually sold it due to this.. so on his caddy project i am sort of working on.. well 2 of them.. he is getting mk3tdi set up... got him into a 97 tdi passat last year that he just loves.. 

are you using ac? you do know the core support will need modded to use the tdi ac set up right? also the rad will become a issue too.. i am planning to mount my rad upside down.. 

poly bushings on suspention... for a dd... never again.. last year on dec 30th i had a control arm break at the horizontal bushing at the frame horn.. right at the welds.. i took it as some hilljack over heated it when they added the poly to it.. when i took the snows off in april i relized the "new arm" that had poly in it on the oppisite side was about to break in the same spot.. when i got the car they looked like new.. car had been sitting for a while before i got it.. so not positive on how old they were.. but less then 2 years later of dd duity i had a catastrophic failure that tried to send me head on into a jeep... 

in engine.. also a nope as it will rattle pretty good..


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## throttle grotto (Oct 30, 2000)

scirocco 16v engine mount bolts right to the 1z block and is much larger in diameter than the diesel one. Only problem is finding them...


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## deathhare. (Apr 1, 2008)

lagomorph said:


> scirocco 16v engine mount bolts right to the 1z block and is much larger in diameter than the diesel one. Only problem is finding them...


They are very easy to find new.
GAP has them for sure. Dont even have to look.


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

crsmp5 said:


> if you look for massive hp/torque in a mk1.. they tend to pull the front mount out of the body in the core support.. and yep.. rear will take more too.. and no reason to have a rattly diesel when mk2/3 refined it so much.. love my b3 1.6td passat wagon due to this..
> 
> *There will be definite reinforcement in the front frame (for entire front end rigidity) and definite reinforcement somehow for the rear mount.. dunno how exactly, possibly just beef up the stock mount? I have no idea lol.*
> 
> ...


 I think this weekend (Saturday, Sunday and Monday off) I will be making the tool to swap out the tranny flanges.. and picking up some: 

steel 
cutoff wheels 
mean green and elbow grease 
hole-saw (whats the clutch cylinder bore? 1"?) 
and some other assorted **** that i come upon to get this motor mounted this weekend me thinks. 

Does anyone off hand know the diameter of the cables for the shifter? I Like the idea of mounting the shifter in from the top, and this requires running the cables through the cabin.. and through the floor (where the automatic cable would be). 

Cheers mates :beer:


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## crsmp5 (May 26, 2005)

actually yes the poly stresses things differently.. aka no rubber to asorb.. 

the 1st one that broke was old.. aka assumed it was someones heat method to remove old rubber bushings.. how ive done it for years type of thing.. 

the 2nd one did not break.. but is cracked pretty good (enough where the right set of bumps would have finished it) and was a new rust free gloss black arm.. guy basically had a bunch of vws.. was loosing his storage when i picked up the 81 coupe.. and it looked as if he fitted it so he could sell the car type of thing.. 

every time you hit a pothole, divit and such the arm by force gets shoved towards the cabin.. rubber would asorb this normally.. poly is like well more like glass and does to give.. so you get a couple options.. 

1 the frame horn splits by the rear motor mount.. you all of a sudden get a torque steer you cannot seem to find/fix thinking bad ball joint so on.. lower stres bar helps this crack.. 

2 like me the arm actually breaks.. 

so for a dd.. i will never suggest poly.. if you do.. you need to check that point on the arm every few months.. if not it gets ugly fast.. rember mine =dd thru snow and all.. needs bottom clip  the rockers have been crap since i got it.. since i got my treasure 84coupe and had 500 tied upinto the 81 when i got it on the road with a what snow freshly rebuilt 1.6na included in that price.. its a perfect work/snow car.. 

tool to swap flanges.. NOPE.. 020 is 020.. 02a is not the same.. 02a just uses a slide hammer to come out.. they have a hogring inside.. 020 uses the clip to hold it in.. you will have to do 100mm inner joints/axels.. 

hole saw.. if you got the cables out id measure its id... them go looking fo rsome rubber groments that you can use to fill the holes and run the cable thru them.. you will want the saw to be that size... they will vibrate and cut the cables if you do not..  

yes ive had lots of thought on how to do this..


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

crsmp5 said:


> tool to swap flanges.. NOPE.. 020 is 020.. 02a is not the same.. 02a just uses a slide hammer to come out.. they have a hogring inside.. 020 uses the clip to hold it in.. you will have to do 100mm inner joints/axels..
> 
> yes ive had lots of thought on how to do this..


 Sh!!!!t. I just read Broke's page and assumed when he said later 100mm flange he meant 02a style. fkcu. He says later 100mm and later 90mm interchange.. crap. 

*What are my options thus far? Every possible axle/cv/hub option on the table. Cheapest and esiest to find preferred. *


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## crsmp5 (May 26, 2005)

i am not exactly sure what deathhare found in his 100mm axel post/thread.. but i know this much from his thread/pastknowledge.. cannot just add 100mm joints to 90mm shafts.. 

my plans.. goto advance.. buy new/reman 100mm axels for a 16vrocco/cabbie new require no cores btw them machine the spindel to fit the 100mm outter joint. 

for the those are junk people.. i only need the shafts.. i can rebuild them with my tdi joints..  

some will say use the mk3 knuckles.. i say not.. when 88 came about they went to a crappy wheel bearing.. which mk3 uses old mk1 bearings may be smaller but they do not wipe/wear out like 88+ ones do.. 100,000+ on mk1 bearings vs 50ish on 88+ 

ill mod my mk1 ones.. already have 10.1" fronts on it.. have had them on it since 95ish (built a 82 coupe test bead in 93 that was way more rotted then it was worth.. miss that car.. was flatblack spraybommed even before ti was a kewl status).. figured out back then audi quattro 4000 are same calipers/cariers as 16v rocco back then.. and much more plentyfull in the yards back then. actually were cheaper as the yards did not know they were the same..


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

crsmp5 said:


> i am not exactly sure what deathhare found in his 100mm axle post/thread.. but i know this much from his thread/past knowledge.. cannot just add 100mm joints to 90mm shafts..
> 
> my plans.. goto advance.. buy new/reman 100mm axles for a 16vrocco/cabbie new require no cores btw them machine the spindle to fit the 100mm outer joint.
> 
> ...


 By no means do I not trust your word, jsut wanted to ask at multiple places to get a entire demographic answer. Simple consensus practice  Never trust only one source. no hard feelings eh bud? it seems you do know your ish though  



A1steaksauce said:


> source out later rocco and/or cabriolet spindle assemblies. those later MK1 based models used 100mm axles. everything will bolt right up no modifications required.


 So by going to these later rocco/cabby spindle/axle assemblies will I have to alter or upgrade the front brakes? I mean yeah cool, I wanna do that at some time.. but not right now... ya'heard'me? lol 

Guess i gotta get in to a big u-pull-a-part down in Toronto and see what they got. what years classify as the later years? 85+? Also in these years are there any with 90mm to look out for? if they have the calipers/carriers with them should I grab them too? 

I was contemplating just bolting it up to the 020 for now.. I don't launch hard ever and I'm super easy on clutches.. No ricer starts.. just smooth low rpm engagement. only get on the power when im well in to gear. I have faith in the 020... I think this will be my route of attack thus far. keep the 02A for a rainy day.. and buy a clutch for the 020.. maybe a %80 kit too? 

Lets switch topics to getting the best out of an 020. not for OMFG POWER! just reliability under normal conditions. the tranny will hold the torque, its the clutch dropping it won't take, so it should do fine yes? what are your thoughts?


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## daunicorn (Apr 20, 2005)

8v-of-fury said:


> I read in a thread about how some guy actually used the entire brake setup from the mk3 and swapped it all over, (pedal cluster, booster, MC the whole works) This is probably more than I need to do though I think.


 Intresting were did you read that at? I have a mk3 I could cut up for this.


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## puebla (Sep 9, 2003)

Hypa-R 1.8t said:


> Intresting were did you read that at? I have a mk3 I could cut up for this.


 ..... and I had a MK3 GTI DE parts car that I could of used....


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## crsmp5 (May 26, 2005)

couple questions on your 020... stock tdi = 90hp and 100+torque.. 

any shifting noises when cold?? aka bad syncro type of thing 

rev sound good?? 

what year is it?? 

88+ have inferior rivits that hold the ring to the diff.. they are MUCH softer (drill them bad boys vs old mk1 ones and you will see) and tend to pop head off when you gots torque/power 

94+ have inferior rivits and inferior rev parts.. 

bolt kit to replace rivits is $110 from stealership at min.. 8 years ago it was ~$50 
small rev gear is $160+ from stealership 
big rev gear is $200+ from stealership 
gaskets are cheap along with seals.. 

my 1980ff 020 holds its own.. has had no issues withthe abuse its had put to it over the years AFTER i went thru it.. when i added the euro 2.0 8 v counterflow tall block with euro cis to the tranny i found 1 issue.. the bolt that holds it all together came loose.. 200ft/lbs of torque and loctite did not last the years prior to adding power to it.. it came unscrewed and in rev would unscrew and lock it all up  

went thru it and life has been good since 96.. i see no reason it would not take on a stock tdi.. i worry bout tdi-m though.. wanting to double my hp/torque 

if you have access to a press, vice, mk2 bently and parts washer all you need is a good piece of angle iron to mount the tranny to the vice.. better be mounted good though as the 1st real bolt is supposed to be 200ft/lbs and red loctited.. 

tools... 27mm allen for the cover plate behind the clutch cable.. same size as timming plug on tranny 
2 med sized pryars... to seperate case halfs and pry up on 1st/2nd gear set on pinion shaft 
xzn socket.. next sized down from the axel one for 4 bolts under 5th gear 
xzn head bolt socket for the 200ft/lbs bolt under the throw out bearing 
something to measure 5mm 
snap ring pliers for flanges/other c clips inside 

tool for press.. wish i knew its name.. but basically has 2 sides to it with 2 bolts thru it to snug them together.. pinion shaft bearing remover or such.. you will need this to seperate the 5th gear main bearing from the main shaft 

rest is basic common tools.. 

tips.. 

do not mix up direction of syncro sliders... else you will take apart again.. one for 3rd/4th easy and 1st/2nd as long as you do not pop big rev gear off not so hard.. 

do not remove the long rod holding the shift sliders in place.. tends to have silly spring on its end.. nose cone removed you will see 

use the shift slider forks to lock it in multi gears at same time to loosen said 200ft/lbs bolt out of 5th gear 

for you a day of work w/mk2 bently.. me 4hr with bolt kit and all.. only need book for torque specs.. 

at min i suggest pulling the nose cone.. removing said nut loctite and retorque.. 

my worry on older 020 tranny... torque in 5th gear will eventually wipe out the pinion and small 5th gear.. the teeth will at one point no longer hold and spin its self and tranny = junk then.. so no boost trials in 5th just easy crusin.. ive wiped this on a 1.6na before.. 85+ they add a bearing to this area in the nose cone.. sadly 85+ start to weaken other parts  

p.s. it was more of a razzle.. myke_w has known me longer then working on cars.. his 1st mech job was working for my father..  he is also who i went to do the ce2 wiring for the other weekend..


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

Hypa-R 1.8t said:


> Intresting were did you read that at? I have a mk3 I could cut up for this.





puebla said:


> ..... and I had a MK3 GTI DE parts car that I could of used....


 Well I mean if the booster has the same mounting pattern, and the mc mounts to that, and the lines are the same size.. and the pedal works wit hthis booster and master.. then all you gotta worry bout is mounting the mk3 pedal cluster. i guess. I'll see if i cant find that thread. 

ahh it was Mr.Dave and he used the pedal cluster out of a Cabriolet, to maintain switches for the use of cruise control. Sorry guys, my bad. 



A1steaksauce said:


> no, you won't have to alter the front brakes if you go to the rocco/cabriolet 100mm spindle/hub assemblies. the spacing for the caliper carriers is exactly the same. so you can retain your stock brakes if you desire. there are people running 100mm axle setups with the smaller 9.4 brakes so they can run 13's :beer:
> 
> *Perfect, that's what I want to hear, i'll start looking for some *
> 
> ...





crsmp5 said:


> couple questions on your 020... stock tdi = 90hp and 100+torque..
> 
> any shifting noises when cold?? aka bad syncro type of thing
> *Only shifting 2nd super hard*
> ...


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## crsmp5 (May 26, 2005)

rev = reverse... 

2nd gear syncro is a problem.. the slider (part of the $200+ reverse big gear set up) will wear along with the gear 

2nd gear syncro is also steel vs brass like the rest.. 

so due to that not worth going thru the tranny unless you got good used parts to use.. 

i do suggest pulling the nose cone to retorque the 200ft/lb bolt though.. 

what i figured happened on mine is there was more then enough torque to shift the 5th gear on the splines of the main shaft.. this shift let the bolt come loose... the tdi should have enough torque to do this to you... 

i had been using that tranny with a 1.8 for 2-3 years with no issues till the 2nd day of the 2.0 install.. the 1.8 was built too.. but the 2.0 has much more torque.. 

when in rev the thing would unscrew shoving the clutch pedle back at you and stall the engine..  it ruined the nosecone and filled the tranny with aluminum shavings.. pop it in nutral and it would retighten.. was a pretty intersting thing i can say ive only ever seen happen to me.. 

hope my ramblings help some.. 

ive never cracked open a 02a yet.. mine will be gone thru as i never drove my set up... fuel pump was bad so can only guess what it may need


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## crsmp5 (May 26, 2005)

mk3 as in jetta pedals/booster.. far from direct fit.. 4 bolts... 

b3/b4 passat closer.. they at least mount the booster w 3 bolts.. but the supports are all wrong.. 

combining a mk1 and b3/b4 might be possible... but i plan to mod a broken mk1 set up and add reinforcement to it as to help firewall flex reduction.. 

clutch master b3/b4 different then your mk3 too.. may be easier to use.. i suggest pulling booster/pedals add a couple washers to act as firewall and doing the clutch set up that way.. then put back in car and add clutch master hole. 

you got a xbox?? monday nights, 1amish est me and the guy with tdi 77 bunny race and bs... even if you lack the game you can still shoot the bull.. crsmp5 is my gammertag too.. just pop into the party/chat room thinggy.. 

he did the clutch cable set up on his 77.. that requires no pedal mods.. 

as for the cruise switches.. aftermarket add on cruise ones will work..  all it does is open the ground.. 

when i added vw cruise to my 84 coupe i run with no clutch switch (not a good idea per say, but allowes me to downshift and pass cars then goo back to cruisin) i added my brake switch to the brake light ciruit at the master.. where its got 2 brake light switches 

how?? the wire going to the tail light is grounded thru the bulb.. when power supplied it turns ground to + and turns off cruise.. good idea?? maybe.. works yes... will cruise work with blown bulbs nope.. so just ideas fr you..


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## deathhare. (Apr 1, 2008)

deathhare. said:


> I agree on the cable weirdness. I bought a brand new 97 gti vr6 and put over 100,000 miles on that car. That whole time I disliked the cable shift and dont think that opinion will ever change.
> 
> I have to use it I will but am fairly decided Im gonna try to use this on my car.
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.de/VW-Golf-1-Einbau...le_ohne_Strassenzulassung&hash=item4cf0ea202f


 Dont know if youre considering using this rod shift stuff I linked to above but I saw a set in person over the weekend. 
I was *very* impressed with the quality of it and am now definitely using it in my build. 
After seeing it, I think not using it would be foolish. F that cable junk.


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## funnee84bunny (Jul 30, 2007)

Just wanted to add: 

crsmp5 knows his diesel/fab shizz.....he's helped me out in more than one jam.:thumbup: 

and as far as the cable vs. linkage debate: can't remember who said it, but on cables it really does feel like shifting in a big bucket of penises. :laugh:


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## deathhare. (Apr 1, 2008)

A1steaksauce said:


> just keep in mind with your swap you have to get the transmission lined up to properly accept this style linkage. i've seen the rod select as well but it was more geared at people using 02A trans's and the like for diesel and 1.8t swaps. i think someone with a VR setup will have to be very mindful of how they are installing their motor to make sure this lines up....i for one could see it being a royal PITA :beer:


 With the tranny mounts I'm using that won't be an issue.


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## crsmp5 (May 26, 2005)

thanks for the words.. sadly i have no clue to what ive helped you with...  

ive thought abt tdi-m for quite some time for my 84 coupe and what ill have to do to pull it off.. the tdi i got and the m pump i got kinda fell into my lap.. else id not have the stuff to do this... hence id probally ignore this thread.. like i was till it fell into my lap.. 

back in 02 i built a mk2 tdi for a guy in colorado.. learned lots then.. and till last year did not have a tdi to play with till i passed on the 97 passat to my godfather.. i only passed on it as it was too nice to hack up.. the 98 mk3.. had nothing worth not gutting it.. price was right and when discussing the ability to pay 6 bills for it to myke_w he was like i gots the pump you need..  

well when pulling the pump off to give the mount to a mk4 tdi customer who works at a machine shop (he even fels he owes me favor for saving his tdi a month ago) i relized the cam was a tooth advanced.. the pump was 7 teeth off.. hate it when hillbillies got access to tools.. 

i pulled my head to see what kinda goodness id find inside.. slight intake valve hits on pistons.. pisses me off.. but new valves cheaper then head/piston/rod when it would have dropped a valve on me.. also a good oppertunity to ecarbon the intake ports, do valve job.. needs exhaust guids.. mine happens to have single valve springs so will get a real set when i put it backtogether.. 

ill also balance it all out.. add some rings.. bearings new seals and just rebuild it to be done.. so my hopes are in march to start installing it.. 

mine is now in slow mode.. will be feb before i get it all back together.. and since in feb 97 i put all my stuff from my 82 coupe into the 84 shell. to me its a unique time to get this project together.. 14 years of joy and to be a diesel.. sadly no place to rotessery it.. so i am going to do something special..  in march 11 i should have some why did you do that pics..


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

funnee84bunny said:


> Just wanted to add:
> 
> crsmp5 knows his diesel/fab shizz.....he's helped me out in more than one jam.:thumbup:
> 
> and as far as the cable vs. linkage debate: can't remember who said it, but on cables it really does feel like shifting in a big bucket of penises. :laugh:


 :laugh::laugh::laugh: 



A1steaksauce said:


> just keep in mind with your swap you have to get the transmission lined up to properly accept this style linkage. i've seen the rod select as well but it was more geared at people using 02A trans's and the like for diesel and 1.8t swaps. i think someone with a VR setup will have to be very mindful of how they are installing their motor to make sure this lines up....i for one could see it being a royal PITA :beer:





deathhare. said:


> Dont know if youre considering using this rod shift stuff I linked to above but I saw a set in person over the weekend.
> I was *very* impressed with the quality of it and am now definitely using it in my build.
> After seeing it, I think not using it would be foolish. F that cable junk.


 Don't think I will be forkin' the dough for that rod setup, but it is a damn nice one. Glad to have your approval on it if I ever do decide on it Shannon  



crsmp5 said:


> you got a xbox?? monday nights, 1amish est me and the guy with tdi 77 bunny race and bs... even if you lack the game you can still shoot the bull.. crsmp5 is my gammertag too.. just pop into the party/chat room thinggy..
> 
> *xbox is currently dead, 2006 model.. 2 RROD and multiple jerry rigs later.. she dead for good now. lol*
> 
> ...





crsmp5 said:


> rev = reverse...
> 
> *aHH Reverse is smooth, and no problems*
> 
> ...





crsmp5 said:


> thanks for the words.. sadly i have no clue to what ive helped you with...
> *you've helped with getting the plan of attack correct in my mind *
> 
> ill also balance it all out.. add some rings.. bearings new seals and just rebuild it to be done.. so my hopes are in march to start installing it..
> ...


 On a side note.. what needs to be done to mount this TDI to an 020? clutch wise.. I've never cracked a trans off an engine.. so i have no idea whats going on down in there.. How does it all work? 

Also will the 81 020 FF/FN fit the clutch out of my 91 020 AWY? BrokeVw says the splines are the same and he thinks the FF/FN case will accept a 210mm clutch.. any confirmation here?


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## crsmp5 (May 26, 2005)

as long as the flywheel matches the clutch.. 190/200/210 you can use any of them.. rember 16v and mk3 uses a big spline for the middle of the clutch.. gotta have proper disk for the tranny used.. 


clutch simple.. do yourself a favor.. go get a piece of not dog chain.. but next size up.. like 1 ft of it.. 

you will need to loosen the 60ft/lb with loctie bolts into the rear of the main (020 pressure plate/02a flywheel)... bolt the chain into one of the bellhosing bolt holes and a pressureplate/flywheel bolt.. the chain will keep the crank from tturning so you can loosen/retorque them.. make sure to use loctite as that help seal them so they do not leak oil... they go straight thru the crank.. 

mk1 = 17mm on those.. 11mm on the others... the mk3 is a 17mm 12pt and a 9mm 12pt 

the little bolts are only 18ft/lbs and should come out with ease.. 

and i still wanna know how i helped funnee out... 

on both do not forget the bellhousing tin.. on botton 2 11mm bolts... on 020 right above axel flange 1 10mm and 1 11mm bolt and remove little piece of tin.. on 02a there is only 1 11mm bolt again remove tin.. 

me to make life simple.. i tend to pull the inner axel flange by the block.. at least the 100mm one.. the 90 is possible.. just gotta wiggle it enough.. 020 is the c-clip pain in arss thing.. 02a just pops out with a slide hammer.. or proper leverage of a prybar.. 

also fyi.. the outter diameter of a 190/200/210 flywheel is the same.. the inner machined area is different.. so tranny case/starter all the same... but is car currently diesel?? you will need a diesel starter for the 020 as 02a different.. why i ask.. 

also.. a 190/200mm set up is for 6 bolts.. a 210 is 9.. 

since its your 1st time.. be very carefull.. there are 2 pegs/dowels on the flywheel that are supposed to line up with the pressureplate (little small c/d shaped cutouts).. if your hillbilly enough you can do this wrong and screw up your timming mark!!! not so good a idea on a diesel.. so when you take it apart i want you to see them and pay attention to how it works.. seen lots of posts this summer as the hillbillies been hard at work..


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

crsmp5 said:


> as long as the flywheel matches the clutch.. 190/200/210 you can use any of them.. rember 16v and mk3 uses a big spline for the middle of the clutch.. gotta have proper disk for the tranny used..
> 
> *So basically if I want to use the 1991 1.6 AWY clutch I have to bolt its entire clutch/flywheel to the TDI. TY*
> 
> ...


 Thanks a bunch crsmp5! entirely helpful  :beer: 

Also just picked up a 1991 1.6 Turbo diesel tonight, traded the interior of the 98 jetta for it  suhweet deal. Body is rotten, but my gf's 90 digifart, is going diesel baby


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## crsmp5 (May 26, 2005)

6vs 9 bolts... thats 020... and tdi is different all together.. tdi is i beleive 228mm.. its completly 100% non swappable aka cannot be used in a 020... 

6 bolts... 190mm/200mm clutch.. aka diesel supposed to be 200mm... 210mm is gasser 1.8.. thats 9 bolts.. 

flywheel must match pressureplate and the clutch disk size.. 16v/mk3 is a 210mm but its middle hole is larger.. not sure of the tranny code you speak.. just make sure to get the right disk for it.. aka if its got the big main shaft need the 16v/mk3 disk.. else its just standard disk of what ever size flywheel you got.. 

also them there engines may be sitting on rims.. but if you did not remove the lower 2 11mm screws... and miss the ones hiding by the axel flange you going to learn lots of new ways to cuss..


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## JNXtheband (Jul 27, 2000)

*a/c*

just found this post.

Im in the middle of this same swap. I am also using the mk3 a/c setup. Any ideas on intercoolers?

having a radiator AND condenser up front is going to prevent running a FMIC for sure.

also just to add my 2 cents on the wiring issues:

the mk3 tdi ecu has all kinds of neat features like integrated cruise control, auto glow plug cycle when the driver door switch is tripped, A/C cutoff at full boost. you are going to miss out on all that if you splice the harness.

lagomorphs idea to use a mk2 ce2 dash is probably the way to go in that case.


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

JNXtheband said:


> just found this post.
> 
> Im in the middle of this same swap. I am also using the mk3 a/c setup. Any ideas on intercoolers?
> 
> ...


Sweet, your going all out on it! Right on bro.

I will be using the stock inter-cooler for now with a small hood scoop  Having the IC pretty much directly over the transmission. some custom brackets, and some rubber to mate it to the hood (like the old trans-ams and dodge's had) Think it will be quite teh siht! 

Also on lost creature comforts, not a big deal. I honestly think cruise control is the devil, almost lost a friend because of it.. Will the gp's still have there normal temperature sensor when the key is turned on? I don't need the door activated one. Also I am not keeping the A/c, car doesn't have all the stuff necessary, and I don't like using it anyway.. windows down is fine for me 

Good luck on your swap, got a build thread? :beer:


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## JNXtheband (Jul 27, 2000)

nah, no build thread. I would rather spend the time it would take typing/uploading pictures/etc. to be working on the car instead.


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## the kevin (Feb 12, 2004)

crsmp5 said:


> clutch simple.. do yourself a favor.. go get a piece of not dog chain.. but next size up.. like 1 ft of it..
> 
> you will need to loosen the 60ft/lb with loctie bolts into the rear of the main (020 pressure plate/02a flywheel)... bolt the chain into one of the bellhosing bolt holes and a pressureplate/flywheel bolt.. the chain will keep the crank from tturning so you can loosen/retorque them.. make sure to use loctite as that help seal them so they do not leak oil... they go straight thru the crank..


no need for chain


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## crsmp5 (May 26, 2005)

thats a neet idea... ive always had some type of chain in my life.. cherrypicker/old ball so on...


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## SMKYDUB (Apr 1, 2008)

8v-of-fury said:


> Sweet, your going all out on it! Right on bro.
> 
> I will be using the stock inter-cooler for now with a small hood scoop  Having the IC pretty much directly over the transmission. some custom brackets, and some rubber to mate it to the hood (like the old trans-ams and dodge's had) Think it will be quite teh siht!



I did something similar...can't remember which IC I used for sure, but maybe a GSX or something...but I cut the hood and built a NACA duct to feed the IC. Works ok. doesn't flow as well as I'd hoped, so I added a small motorcycle radiator fan to aid with flow...works great now.

not to jack your thread, but here are some pics for reference:
http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa179/JMOVT/0402001915.jpg
http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa179/JMOVT/0402001931a.jpg


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

SMKYDUB said:


> I did something similar...can't remember which IC I used for sure, but maybe a GSX or something...but I cut the hood and built a NACA duct to feed the IC. Works ok. doesn't flow as well as I'd hoped, so I added a small motorcycle radiator fan to aid with flow...works great now.
> 
> not to jack your thread, but here are some pics for reference:
> http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa179/JMOVT/0402001915.jpg
> http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa179/JMOVT/0402001931a.jpg


 THAT looks very well done.. However I think the main reason you had a problem with flow was because there was no actual scoop. The normal direction of air hits the front of the car and goes up and around it. Have you ever had water droplets on your hood, just kinda sit there? because there is no air movement in that spot.. A scoop to grab some of the air that is going over the car, would surely force it through.. Plus not only that, there is a positive air pressure inside the engine bay from the air rushing through the radiator and down under the car, its a small physics experiment really


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

Guys I've got a plan.. :laugh: 

I just picked up a 1991 TD. Body is super shot. Traded the interior of the 98 for it. 

I have two mk1's an 81 and 84 Jetta. I am swapping the TDI in to the 81, and I am driving the 84. The 84 currently has a tired 1.7 that guzzles back the gasoline.. I am going to be driving the 84 this winter as its brakes and suspension are up to snuff. I will be hopefully doing work on the 81 this winter, if not she waits till Spring.. 

Here is my idea. The 91 TD's tranny is rough.. some reverse noises, and i don't really care if it goes boom.. I think I will put it behind the TDI, take my FF/FN from the current 81 1.6 and put it behind the TD motor and put it in my 84. I will use the 91 clutch on the TDI as i believe it feels the strongest, and use the 84's clutch on the 1.6TD and FF/FN combo. That will then leave me with a 4K trans and a tired 1.6 N/A in my garage.. to sell lol Probably keep the 4K for a build later down the road.. 

what do you think? 

*1984 Black Jetta 4Dr* 


Winter & Back-up car 

1991 1.6TD mated to a 1981 FF/FN 5spd 

Daily over the winter 

 

*1981 Gold Jetta 4Dr* 


Project car & eventual daily 

1998 AHU TDI temporarily mated to 1991 gear grinding (unknown code) 5spd :laugh: 

02A / Cable Shift / Hydro Clutch saved for a rainy day 

 

*Garage Parts List (post-swap)* 


1981 1.6 N/A 

1984 4K 5spd transmission 

1981 FF/FN clutch assembly 

1991 1.6 N/A parts motor (no injectors, pump, or alt) 

Spare injectors, hardlines, injector pump 

Spare 1984 1.6 N/A complete, I will be picking up tomorrow.. 

 

The only reason I even want to put the TDI behind an inferior 020 is so that it will still be movable in the driveway. or to another place to work on it need be with out an out of town tow-truck call.. And hey, if the 91 020 goes POP.. throw in another. :laugh: I'm sure it will do fine even to drive.. we'll see. 

I really wanted to put this 1.6TD in my gf's 90 but it seems that may be back burn-erd for a while.. as her digi 8v still has some life left.. 

I also badly want this 1.6TD in my 84 as the 1.7 is just killing me with only getting 20-25mpg, mind you I have the pedal passed half throttle most of the time.. but still, the amount of fun is not worth filling up every second day . I Need A Diesel Engine Again! :thumbup::thumbup: 

on the 91->84 swap I know I will need to put on a mk1 mount, fortunately I have a mount with new rubber pressed in, and new 1.6 timing belt and tensioner ready to go as well. And the timing tools and know-how to remove the pump and get it running again in about 13minutes. lol  Will also be retaining the stock in tank pump to help along the IP. Getting rid of the high pressure pump just as easy as fitting line where it used to go? and sealing off the wires? 

*OOohh tank Vent.. Does the mk1 Gasser tank have a vent?* I seem to recall three lines going to and from the tank and engine bay on the 1.7 CIS.. what is the third?? Can it be cut off in the engine bay and used for a vent? I would assume so, a little deeper digging will do the trick.. 

Thanks a whole bunch guys! GET back to me! criticism and advice is greatly appreciated!


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## crsmp5 (May 26, 2005)

tank vent.. part of the little roll over valve up by the filler neck.. gas cars keep pressure in the tank.. cis needs to go shwhoosh when you open the cap.. diesel roll over valve is different.. you can use a iece of copper and eliminate it on the 84.. 

turbo elbow for exhaust.. the 91 one will not like the 84.. you will need to find a mk1 kind, buy the 300$+ tt mk2 to mk1 downpipe crap... or build your own downpipe.. 

IMO.. the 1.6na, spare tranny = dump in car to move as you need.. while your building the tdi right..  my 81 coupe when i was piecing it together was simple...  1 hot wire from batt and a gal of fuel under the hood.. move it around real easy.. 

p.s. you ned to add a coupe to the collection..


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

Aww, do the downpipes not end up in the same location between mk1 and mk2? shiii lol 

Where does this piece of copper go to eliminate it on the 84? I covered all the topics to convert this 84 to diesel about 2 years ago.. but never did it as i found the 81.. lol 

the car (81 that the tdi will be going in) is already in operation.. I was actually thinking of putting the insurance back in it and driving it again if i still need parts for the TDI swap.. Or if I can feasibly and quickly swap in the TD to the 84.. Would be easier to throw my sterio back in the 81 and drive it.. I think it has a slight fuel draining back to tank issue to be dealt with prior to being a winter car... that and no heat for my 10km's to work could be hellish.. Or just run some thin synthetic oil, and some after glow duraterms and be golden. :laugh:


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

anyone see anything against using a 4spd 4A trans behind a 1.6 TD? its geared tall, and torque does good with tall gears right? 

Also will the clutch on the 91 engine just work still bolted to the engine and the 4spd bolted up? 020 clutches are the same outer diameter, just as long as clutch pieces stay together they fit all the other 4 cyl's right?


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## crsmp5 (May 26, 2005)

you remove the roll over valve and use the copper to piece the 2 lines together.. 

the elbow off turbo to toilet piece of the td is different for mk1 and mk2.. no will not line up.. 

you can use the 4 speed.. BUT will have massive rpm drop between gears.. 

clutch should fit 4 speed no prob.. 

HEAT!!!! look at the heater neck of the tdi.. its got 3 gloplugs in it.. will fit any na/td 1.6 diesels..  using 2 foglight relays you can set up 2 switches inside the car.. one to turn on 1 glowplug, the other to turn on 2 glow plug.. this way you can run 1, 2 or all 3 at the same time.. need to wire the relays under the hood with good wire.. and just 2 small simple on off wires to inside.. only takes a few millivolts to turn on a relay..  

they will act as hot water tank and help heat up the heater faster..


----------



## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

I have the earliest version of TDI the 1Z/AHU I do not think there is any glow-plugs in the heater neck on mine.. maybe the BEW engines? or PD's?

I have not made any progress TDI wise on this project, but I have been doing work on the 81 with all my limited spare time.. before and after work and in between more "Essential" things at home lol. 

However I have been pondering a good few things.. I was thinking more on my axle issue, could I not have an experienced welder cut and section the mk3 axles? would the mk3 outter cv fit in to the later cabby 100mm steering knuckle?


----------



## GEE-BEE (Jan 15, 2007)

*Intercooler Install*

If you want a easy install bellintercooler.com will make a 26 x 8.5 x 1.25 Intercooler

$$$ 880.00

Outlet's can be 2' or whatever you want

My outlet's are top, one one each side just above the mounting tab's

I rotated my battery 90 degree's using a cnc optima mount for IC tubing clearence

This will bolt on the four tab's on the front of the following radiators

You can use a MK1 or MKII fan shroud for install
MKII 250 watt fan ( scirocco 16v ) 
MK is 150 watt

stock MK1 radiator is 575 mm

MKIII is 638 x 377 ( dual fan' type )

675 mm scirocco 16 v radiator 
Upper hose 191121101 Q
Lower angle down 53321051 A

MKII fan support uses
191121265 C
191121265 B
2 each 17121276d Rubber washer for pin's on 
This will move the radaitor very close to the core support ( 1/4) gap

MK1 fan support uses the c clip and stud mounts

The above hoses are available in silicone , all color's

I have a intercoller in production at Bell, I sent them a new radiator for tooling

Other sizes are:
18 x 6.5 x 2.25 553.00
22 x 6.5 x 2.25 619.00

GB
[email protected]


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

A1steaksauce said:


> why would you even think this utter waste of money would be a good idea?
> 
> just get the later rocco/cabriolet 100mm axles and be done with it :beer:


Waste of money if I had to spend any yes, and buying new or sourcing good used axles I will have too.

I have a 40+ year experienced welder who owes me a few favours  so it would be free. So my question still stands, would the mk3 outter cv's fit in a scirroco/cabby hub? 

GB, goddamn you always got such expensive sh!t  I will be using the stock intercooler, so all is well there  

I have an mk2 rad and fan I can use, out of a 91 n/a golf though not a rocco lol


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

yes/no to the mk3 outer CV's fitting in latter cabby knuckles? Mind you I would like to find a car with all the necessary parts intact.. but if I cannot.. Will they fit?


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## deathhare. (Apr 1, 2008)

Honestly, this idea is just stupid.
Almost as bad as running an o2o on a TDI.


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

Why is it stupid though? People have sectioned and welded drive shafts before, why not axles? I am working with what I have, how is that stupid or a complete waste??

I mean no respect in saying this, but why post if you have no usable information towards my inquiry? 

I'm sorry I am not fortunate enough to live in an area of vast vw junkyards such as yourself and A1... but why degrade me for trying to do what I can with what I have? :thumbdown: to you sir.


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## deathhare. (Apr 1, 2008)

8v-of-fury said:


> I mean no respect in saying this, but why post if you have no usable information towards my inquiry?




There was usable information. That being that this idea is just damn foolish.




8v-of-fury said:


> Why is it stupid though? People have sectioned and welded drive shafts before, why not axles?


People shorten axles all the time. Im having to do it now.
But people like me do it because there exists no axle to use otherwise.
Yours can be had for next to nothing. Just run regular rabbit axles and swap flanges if you have to.


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## funnee84bunny (Jul 30, 2007)

crsmp5 said:


> and i still wanna know how i helped funnee out...



well...starting from at least four years back.....

you hooked me up with a complete sunroof assembly when i bought my first diesel rabbit for 40 or somad dollars shipped when I needed it ever so badly:thumbup:

and also when I was converting my mk2 gli to diesel. I had lots of questions and we talked through pm's lots about it.


sorry you forgot. no christmas card for you:facepalm::laugh::wave:


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

deathhare. said:


> There was usable information. That being that this idea is just damn foolish. People shorten axles all the time. Im having to do it now.
> But people like me do it because there exists no axle to use otherwise.
> Yours can be had for next to nothing. Just run regular rabbit axles and swap flanges if you have to.


I dunno bout foolish, maybe less desirable.. I have no junkyards with any vw's closer than 100mi so working with what I have is a better option. I'm sure they can be had for next to nothing there, the shipping would murder it though.. Also I have already been over the idea of running stock axles and swapping on 90mm flanges.. the 02A transmission does not accept them. A later 020 box can have 90mm flanges put in.. but not an 02A as far as I'm aware.

I need 100mm axles, and 100mm knuckles/hubs to make this work.


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## crsmp5 (May 26, 2005)

ahhhh sunroof from 81 jetta sedan that i used to build my 81 coupe..  see too many of your posts to rember how ive helped.. but i know where you got the pieces from..


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## JNXtheband (Jul 27, 2000)

you can grind your stock knuckles to accept outer 100mm cv's, shown here:

http://www.vwcaddy.com/showthread.php?t=42579

And although i havent tried it yet, im fairly certain you can swap the inner 100mm joint onto the rabbit 90mm axle shaft as well.


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## crsmp5 (May 26, 2005)

hey now.. i suggested grinding the hubs for the 100mm joints.. sadly he still has to buy 100mm axels.. the inner joint cannot be swapped and yes he can get stff welded but i think he mises the right axel is hollow and weaking it may be a issue.. the solid left n so bad.. hollow right.. id be sketchy as id hae to see it crack/break.. 

but if his welder is free.. gets him going till he can buy a proper axel.. 

as far as do the outter joints fitting.. no idea.. have not gotten that far on mine.. but no matter what gotta make them fit so grind till they do..


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## Sputterputz (Mar 19, 2004)

I have been reading this for a while, I try to use what I can from donor cars to save money, use OEM parts, ect... But if you have to cut and weld two axles together, even if its free, you are putting yourself in a corner sooner or later. 

when your axle wears out, a boot tears or something happens, you are stuck buying one or both of your axles just to remake one axle. Where as you can spend 125 once, and have a new set w a lifetime warranty. (my local parts stores offer lifetime axle replacement, I have bought a set of axles once for every generation of car I own, now I buy no more) They may be cheaper or "junk" but I am running some oreilly specials on my lysholmed rabbit, if one breaks, I get a new one. I ran orielly axles on a ALH TDI with 400ft/lbs, it did break them when I took it to the track 3 or 4 days in a row, but I found that acceptable for free axles. I had raxles in there before that and they were guaranteed but when they broke it took almost 2 weeks to get a replacement set.. 

My long winded point is that spend the money once for something that you can go get ANYWHERE almost, instead of having a white elephant for a wearout part.


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## crsmp5 (May 26, 2005)

hmmm if you look up my 1st post on the axel thing i said same thing abt buying some from zone or what ever.. yes they poor quality but the mk3 joints could be swapped in as all i need are the shafts.. 

next id use a belt sander with 40 grit before a grinder so the inner piece is flat to fit the 90mm shaft.. BUT i hink a 90mm shaft and 100mm shaft has a slightly different length too.. but cannot confirm yet.. think th e100mm is shorter.. 

how does weldign axel prevent you from swapping joints/boots? just modding shafts? i do not see a issue on th eleft short solid one.. my worry is the long one thats hollow.. 

modding the knuckle is still more simple then buying/finding 100mm set.. dont trust the bst people.. your bound to buy a set fo non 100mm ones and have to spend more.. with him in canada its just that more difficult.. the money spentto buy/ship used ones could be spent at a machine shop and get the old ones milled for less IMO.. againh i am not to this point on mine.. but how i plan to do it as no yards with late mk1s here.. 

vr6/5bolt different splines.. 4s same.. 

quit pissing up thread..


----------



## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

pissing up threads is fun, and even more fun when i get a giggle and some good information out of it at the same time 

Luckily I am NOT the one to dive in to a project then figure **** out.. I figure it out months in advanced, then dive in. So listening to the banter back and forth while I accumulate all the best data, really works for me lol.

I went around today to the local part stores and asked what i could get in terms of axles and warranties. My buddy Andy down at Garage Supply gave me the best price for a lifetime warranty axle, with them ringing ~$130 an axle. And ZERO hassle to get a replacement if I ever need.. The store will deal with me and the replacement then go after the supplier for reimbursement . 

SPINDLES! I have seen some good ideas being thrown around in here, and I think I like the machining the old ones to accept the 100mm the best.. and probably cheapest.. Have them press in some new bearing while they are at it. Voila. Clean em up and hit them up with some paint, be rockin'. eace:

That will cover a giant piece of my swap issue.. After that I just have to cut the floor for the shifter box to be mounted *(Should I mount it from the top down and run the cables through the firewall as to keep them away from my future 2.75-3" exhaust?)* Have heard some good things about doing this.. I'm a big guy, so this will allow me to mount it with a bit of an offset towards the passenger side of the car for one, and for two allow the shifter to be up high and comfortable.. 

And for the cluster, the mounting tabs appear to be almost in the same position and the clusters hand in hand comparison seems to be somewhat the same size.. It should fit right in the dash with minimal to no cutting I would think.


----------



## vdubmk4 (Feb 18, 2007)

Im doing a B4 Passat TDI right now in my 84 rabbit and using 16v rocco axles from Napa. They also said I could bring the originals in for money back but I didnt have them so I brought them the ones from the Passat, they didnt know the difference.


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

vdubmk4 said:


> Im doing a B4 Passat TDI right now in my 84 rabbit and using 16v rocco axles from Napa. They also said I could bring the originals in for money back but I didnt have them so I brought them the ones from the Passat, they didnt know the difference.


Assume your running some cabby spindles? :beer:


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## deathhare. (Apr 1, 2008)

8v-of-fury said:


> Assume your running some cabby spindles? :beer:


Not necessary...as already stated.
Its very easy to clearance the rabbit spindles for the 100mm axles.
20 minutes with a die grinder and your done.


----------



## deathhare. (Apr 1, 2008)

A1steaksauce said:


> screw you, you're all wrong about global warming and having three of the four mounts in a VR swap bolt in....wrong wrong wrong...
> 
> 
> errrr, what thread am i in again? :sly:


Its only two bolt in. I had to cut and weld the front one too. Took forever....like a whole hour.


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## deathhare. (Apr 1, 2008)

A1steaksauce said:


> a whole hour working on a car? F that....sounds way too much like work. i'm gonna go buy a MK4 and a vag-com. will P-slots poke?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


An hour, thats nothing. I once had to get dirty too. :banghead:


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

A1steaksauce said:


> screw you, you're all wrong about global warming and having three of the four mounts in a VR swap bolt in....wrong wrong wrong...
> 
> 
> errrr, what thread am i in again? :sly:





deathhare. said:


> An hour, thats nothing. I once had to get dirty too. :banghead:


You two crack me up   lol

Just ordered some parts off of Rock Auto, and I highly recommend them! Ordered the parts Friday (3rd) afternoon and had them by Tuesday morning (7th)! They processed and shipped on a weekend! Getting my full respect, I will be a return customer for sure. :beer:

I ordered Monroe Sensa-Trac struts/shocks, Monroe front upper mounts, and control arm bushings. I ordered them and had them shipped to Canada because even with the shipping and handling charges of $50 its still A DISGUSTING amount cheaper than getting them locally 

I am torn between whether or not to pick up some sport springs, or just use my stock springs for now.. I can then use that extra cash to get the lifetime warrantied axles... Seems better spent money really. I will be taking the spindles to a machine shop to have them grind clearance for the 100mm outer joints.. as I don't really feel entirely comfortable grinding something that is very crucial to safety. 

Gonna order new control arms, and tie rods, already got some oem BJ's and bushings. Will have to get the springs off and see whats up before i decide whether or not they are going to be re-used. 

This will be done over the winter.. as the engine swap will have to wait until Spring at the least. 

:beer:eace:


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## deathhare. (Apr 1, 2008)

If you have an air compressor and a die grinder you can grind the spindles yourself in no time.
You can even leave them on the car.
Anyway, the majority of the grinding really needs to be done on the outer CV, not the spindle.


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## IronTrap (Jun 14, 2001)

who uses bolt-in parts these days? so 1999!


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## deathhare. (Apr 1, 2008)




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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

deathhare. said:


> If you have an air compressor and a die grinder you can grind the spindles yourself in no time.
> You can even leave them on the car.
> Anyway, the majority of the grinding really needs to be done on the outer CV, not the spindle.


Grinding the CV? I'm not so sure they'd own up to their lifetime warranty deal, if i take a chunk outta them with a grinder eh? 



A1steaksauce said:


> if he takes an axle and spindle to the machine shop and hands them over to them they can just clearance the spindle and all will be well with the world :beer:
> 
> good idea especially if he's not comfortable with doing it himself. umpkin:


I like to keep world order  especially with this crowd lol



saddest6day66 said:


> who uses bolt-in parts these days? so 1999!


lmao, I need some bolt in stuff on this swap lol don't want every piece to be custom! lol its gonna be a driver!

Also, Shannon your quite the sexy-trendy-model :thumbup:


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## deathhare. (Apr 1, 2008)

8v-of-fury said:


> Grinding the CV? I'm not so sure they'd own up to their lifetime warranty deal, if i take a chunk outta them with a grinder eh?


Its very minimal and in no way hurts their strength.
You're gonna either have to do it or flush more money and pay someone to do it for you.


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

deathhare. said:


> Its very minimal and in no way hurts their strength.
> You're gonna either have to do it or flush more money and pay someone to do it for you.


I don't have a die grinder to do it with anyway, so either way i gotta pay money to get it done.. Buy a grinder, buy new spindles, or pay a machine shop.

I mean how long will it take? 30 minutes of their time tops? so ~$30? meh. 

A1 have you seen any 100mm spindles your way?


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## biturbocurious (Jul 6, 2003)

ronnie_v said:


> Around here, people make the engine an M-TDI. They lose all the electronics, and just mount an mechanical pump. Of an old volkswagen LT, i believe.



I would recommend against this ... especially because you have a complete donor. This forum is okay for diesels, but you'll probably find better tips and swap info on tdiclub. 

As far as your tranny and axle woes ... why not just keep the Mk1 trans? Get the TDI in and running. Road test it and see if you really need to go through all the hassle. Chances are, you'll enjoy it just fine. 


Should be nice. Good luck! :thumbup:


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## dalba4 (Nov 26, 2007)

You can use any Mech pump, TD or otherwise

Car will have not power though.

Giles wants like 1200 to do a hybrid M-TDI set up that will work, and fuel.

It's a some coin, but no having electronics to muck with is worth the expense.


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

A1steaksauce said:


> i thought you were just going to take your set to a machine shop to have them fit the 100mm axles?
> 
> 
> i can hunt down a set of rocco/cabriolet 100mm spindles if you'd rather go that way instead....just let me know what you for sure decide :beer:


Well sh!!!t man, I have been tossing a few ideas around.. its gonna cost the same to either have you find/ship/pay for some 100mm.. or get a shop to do my '81 spindles.. I mean how much has to come off to get them to fit? Aren't the older spindles something like 82mm?? I think I have read this somewhere.. any confirmation?

:thumbup:


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## IronTrap (Jun 14, 2001)

100mm spindles aren't that expensive used. maybe try and nab a pair from the cabby classifieds off of a later cabby that is being parted. I think they started putting 100mm axles on all cabriolets 87-ish and later IIRC


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## chickenfriend (Jan 31, 2005)

Open the tapered inner land so that it is 2mm greater in diameter on the outer edge. Cut a 64mm diam plate from aluminum and use it to protect the bearing from damage and grindings, hold it in place with the circlip. Do dry fits with the joint to check clearance. Might need to remove a very small amount of metal from the very thin outermost land, too. 









Grind off the bottom of the loop tab to match the later style bearing circlip, if you have the early circlip style.


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

how did I miss these last two posts? Stupid introwebz. 

So its literally a very small amount that needs to have clearance done.. Hmm.. I think I will still have a shop do it.. for the small price it will be why not. PLUS I'll have somebody other than me to blame when something happens lol. 

Thank-you for posting those pictures! That is very helpful to whomever has roamed over this thread.

The swap itself has been pretty much put on hold until spring, as the guys' shop I was gonna use is being a dick-head , and got offended because i left some stuff at his place.. grow up right? and by stuff I mean a set of tires.. nothing hugely in his way, or heavy to move around.. oh well 

Tomorrow I think I will be pulling the intake manifold off and cleaning it out, as it is quite gummed with soot.. Dunno what else I will do.. not much else to do at this point.. lol


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## crsmp5 (May 26, 2005)

that means ill beat ya to mine..  

i actually went and picked up 2 new 16v rocco axels sat.. ended up costing me... drum roll.... $75 for the pair.. 

be carefull and pull the cam out of the head.. it will need cleaned too.. and dropping any carbon dust in the piston tops = locked up.. 

best thing ive found.. for decarboning th emanifold.. be carefull due to egr rubber.. get a 5 gal jug of the organic parts cleaner.. yes organic as in water based.. 

heat that up to say 80*f.. or nice and warm.. id put it in a metal bucket.. use a spare block heater maybe... hint hint.. drop the manifol din it and ever 30 min or so go shake it up.. the carbon will melt out of it and require very little work.. since water based will not harm th erubber.. and will look new.. how myke_w has been doing his except he has a parts cleaner that heats it up.. and i very very impressed.. after a good 4-5 hr its clean.. his made it steam a little... but not so hot you could not put your hands in it.. why i say 80*f.. 

sadly his "employee" somehow let the carbon fall in his pistons.. so we had to pull the head to unlock it.. why i say pull the cam.. 

if its like mine or his with 250k on it. will mostlikely need exhaust valve guids.. he has a place do his for abt 150ish.. me i can do my own..  so maybe debate on pulling the head and valves to clean up the head ports.. now is a good time..


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

crsmp5 said:


> that means ill beat ya to mine..
> 
> *I look forward to reading all about your swap *
> 
> ...


I've never done any crazy work like that to an engine, and if i wasn't having to spread the money over the body of the car too.. I would consider a rebuild.. or at least a refresher.. But it ran great for the month I drove it before I pulled it.. so I'm not gonna frig with anything until it breaks.. Except the very restricted manifold lol :beer::beer:


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## vwconejo (Apr 18, 2009)

crsmp5 said:


> best thing ive found.. for decarboning th emanifold.. be carefull due to egr rubber.. get a 5 gal jug of the organic parts cleaner.. yes organic as in water based..
> 
> heat that up to say 80*f.. or nice and warm.. id put it in a metal bucket.. use a spare block heater maybe... hint hint.. drop the manifol din it and ever 30 min or so go shake it up.. the carbon will melt out of it and require very little work.. since water based will not harm th erubber.. and will look new.. how myke_w has been doing his except he has a parts cleaner that heats it up.. and i very very impressed.. after a good 4-5 hr its clean.. his made it steam a little... but not so hot you could not put your hands in it.. why i say 80*f..
> 
> ..



Any particular brand of organic parts cleaner? :beer:


----------



## crsmp5 (May 26, 2005)

honestl i do not know what stuff myke_w uses.. aka mod on vw diesel.net.. but during our discussion on it.. id assume all work the same as long as you heat it up.. from experiace cold work like poo.. getting to see myke_w set up where it heats it up and all.. im very impressed..  well worth my building a cooking pan with block heater that manifolds can fit into be submerged and add a shaker to it too so it will vibrate while being cooked.. ill build that this summer.. 

non organic oil/bad for eviroment stuff will work cold.. but can damage the rubber of the egr.. i used my work non organic stuff in my head to eat it away.. but will ruin egr.. 

how do you think the head ports look if the manifold is plugged up?? gotta clean them too.. 

removing the cam garentees the valves closed.. if open its possible even removing the manifold can cause the crumbs by the gasket to fall in.. that means chance to lock it up!!

so pull the cam.. 

pull manifold.. 

clean ports with say some dental picks and lots of compressed air.. ele clean manifold still gets restricted.. on myke_w it was a good thing we pulled the head.. by the time we pulled the valves out it was relized that his valve seats were so plugged up aka a good 50% yes it ran ok. but will run much better now.. mine were not so plugged at the valve seat.. 

i do not suggest torch on manifold.. if heat gets to the egr = ruined go price some organic parts cleaner.. 

if you were not in canada.. myke_w i think would do a exchange on the manifold.. or even clean yours and ship back type of thing.. he has a few spare... but id honestly try the organice stuff.. it will reach to places you cannot.. 

next you will hate me when my build done.. from what ive decided to do with the ic... with my soon tig welder.. vr6t build/swap into a 86 coupe is gettin me that.. im going to build a really neet gotta have for mk1 tdi conversion ic where ac can be kept... sadly will eliminate egr.. so race only custom part..  may have to do a egr version too for people like you.. 

have you ever done a head gasket on a diesel?? pullin tdi head same.. timmingbelt is same too.. 

for the head work.. i suggest you call around.. not a good 1st timer thing to do and find some quotes.. pullin the head right now.. easy vs once all together.. if you can get the head rebuilt for under 200 us.. then add in gasket and new bolts.. your better off.. me ive rebuilt heads.. done many a valve job so on and have access to the tools to cut the seats and stuff.. soo me its just parts.. 

my axels are from some vr6t mk1 bunny race car build that ended and nver happeed. so someone was parting out all the new stuff.. i had done business with him years ago.. so went to get the axels and ic (for the vr6t build im bout to do) and well they went from 100 to 75  i was happy with the 100 for the pair.. new in boxes and all..


----------



## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

crsmp5 said:


> honestl i do not know what stuff myke_w uses.. aka mod on vw diesel.net.. but during our discussion on it.. id assume all work the same as long as you heat it up.. from experiace cold work like poo.. getting to see myke_w set up where it heats it up and all.. im very impressed..  well worth my building a cooking pan with block heater that manifolds can fit into be submerged and add a shaker to it too so it will vibrate while being cooked.. ill build that this summer..
> 
> *I soaked mine for 48hrs in the $8 gallon no name jug found at local parts stores, and then took it down to a hand car wash and spent $3 to have it hot soaped, and hot rinsed. Came out sparkiling. your idea sounds nifty tho CRSMP*
> 
> ...


Thanks for all your input man, appreciate it! :beer:


----------



## Biggmike92gti (Jul 7, 2004)

I am currently installing an 02a into my mk1 pick up, i have a set of mk3 tdi 5spd axles, and my original caddy 5spd axles, i have both the mk1 and mk3 spindles, can i take the mk3 inner cv joints , and install them on my mk1 axles?? or should i just use the mk3 spindle with the mk3 tdi axles?

ive read this thread twice and it gets confusing


----------



## Sputterputz (Mar 19, 2004)

> I am currently installing an 02a into my mk1 pick up, i have a set of mk3 tdi 5spd axles, and my original caddy 5spd axles, i have both the mk1 and mk3 spindles, can i take the mk3 inner cv joints , and install them on my mk1 axles?? or should i just use the mk3 spindle with the mk3 tdi axles


Actually, if you had a set of rocco 16v spindles and axles you could just use those, otherwise you need to make a hybrid set or see if you can find 93 cabriolet axles, they are 100 inners and 90mm outers.


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## Biggmike92gti (Jul 7, 2004)

sputterputz thanks
so the cabriolet 87-up axles come 100mm?

and if i were to make hybrid axes, the tdi 02a inner cv joints will fit on the mk1 caddy axles or are the slipnes on the shaft different?


----------



## Sputterputz (Mar 19, 2004)

A1steaksauce said:


> wait, whut?
> 
> 85 and up rocco and cabriolets got the 100mm inners and 100mm outers. i have never come across anything different.




I dunno, I have come across 2 93 cabs now (that "collectors edition"), and had some rocco axles (16v) and was going to put them in, low and behold they didnt fit on the outers, but the inners were the right size, now normally I would believe that someone just mix matched some parts on these cars, but I went down to my local worldpac supplier and ordered 93 axles, and they fit.. now I am also not saying that I had some weird axles in the shop, but I was fairly sure they were new aftermarkets... anywho, I would certainly NOT recommend a hybrid axle, or a 1 year axle if it truly exists.. get something that is easy to find, 

sal


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## Sputterputz (Mar 19, 2004)

Biggmike92gti said:


> sputterputz thanks
> so the cabriolet 87-up axles come 100mm?
> 
> and if i were to make hybrid axes, the tdi 02a inner cv joints will fit on the mk1 caddy axles or are the slipnes on the shaft different?



87 was a split year for the axle size, any 16v rocco, will have 100mm spindles/axles.. any 88-93 cab (for sure) will have the same as well.. But again, dont do the hybrid axle, get something that are a couple of models for multiple years that use the part.. making one off stuff is for showcars not DDs.


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## crsmp5 (May 26, 2005)

90mm axel will not fit a 100mm joint.. well inner tranny joint.. 

mk3 axel tooo long for mk1.. so that no fit either.. 

dude.. ill use the tdi joints on the rocco axel shafts if i breka one.. the hard part for me is simple.. require a set of shafts... 

p.s. ive got a life axel in my b3 passat... if i broke one.. i bet ya i gots a spare passat shaft to turn in for a free replacement for new joints anyways..  they not that hard to change pieces/parts on.. and all you need is a receipt..


----------



## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

Cleaned out the intake manifold and the intake ports this past week or so, and am completely estranged with how much gunk i took outta there.. that had to be so restrictive.. holy crap. 

Anyway got that all clean and buttoned back up and tucked back away in the garage. 

While I was out there and messing around with it, i took the liberty of getting a confirmation on the transmission code. CTN = 3.778 1st 2.118 2nd 1.360 3rd 0.971 4th 0.756 5th 3.157 F/d. 2000rpm at 60mph, good cruiser. 

I was contemplating just mating an 020 to it and calling it good enough.. for anyone reading this.. I have read EVERY TDI swap thread there is to read on the internet, and there is no substitution for an 02A or greater transmission. NONE. do not use an 020, it will not hold up under anything other than granny driving. Mr.Dave started out his swap (back in '03) with the original 020 and an ALH.. he eventually modified his engine to the point of 150hp and 280tq on the stock tranny.. which gave me the idea to mate it to the 020 and call it a day.. but even with the %80 peloquin kit and bolt kit, the trans will not put up with it. Just get the 02A and be kosher. 

I am fully on course to go through with the 02A cable/hydro setup. 

I think that for the cable shifter I will run it raised in the cabin and the cables to route through the car and out through the firewall. just so I can weld up that shifter hole and have one less heat loss hole on my -30c winter driven mk1 lol. 

02A transmission ftw. :beer:


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## deathhare. (Apr 1, 2008)

8v-of-fury said:


> and there is no substitution for an 02A or greater transmission. NONE. do not use an 020


 This is what everyone has already told you in this thread 100 times. :screwy:


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

deathhare. said:


> This is what everyone has already told you in this thread 100 times. :screwy:


 lawlz. I know man, just summarizing to anyone who reads this. :beer: 

No hybrid axles 
No self ground wheel spindles 
Most certainly NO 020! (unless you fortify it, but it isnt worth it) 

eace:


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## boardsnow6 (Nov 19, 2010)

So is it done? 

Im getting a Cabby in about 2 weeks and am wanting to swap a tdi into it. I want to see a finished product!!!


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## crsmp5 (May 26, 2005)

no its not... and my tdi-m is headed into my kubvan aka burnt toast project.. with luck ill have it running this weekend..


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

I'm looking in to the possibilities of M-tdi. No offense but I DO NOT want to spend $1400 and have Giles do it..

I have the AHU tdi pump, I have a 1.6 TD pump, what else do I need? Pieces from an AAZ pump? I could probably get one fairly easily.


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## 16v_HOR (Jul 21, 2005)

As stated earlier you can use the td pump, it just won't have any balls. Of course you could always put the td pump on to get the car running and buy a Giles down the line when the funds are available.


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

16v_HOR said:


> As stated earlier you can use the td pump, it just won't have any balls. Of course you could always put the td pump on to get the car running and buy a Giles down the line when the funds are available.


A straight swap of the TD pump on to the TDI motor? why the hell would I do that? The 1.6TD pump doesn't have the ability to inject fuel at the pressures needed for the tdi injectors. I was inquiring on what else was needed to build my own m-tdi pump.

From what I have read it would be easiest to modify the 1.6 pump with either the stock shaft, tdi cam plate and head.. or get an aaz to tear apart and use its shaft in the 1.6 pump with either the aaz cam or tdi, and then the tdi head, injector lines and injectors.


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## crsmp5 (May 26, 2005)

mine fired up today...  gotta finish the intercooler piping and install the rad hoses.. also the alt no charge 

dude.. rover defender pump from the uk... 200-300$ will require a governer mod.. but you know how to do that..


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

A rover pump is straight swap? 

Seems if I use the 1.6 pump with the 17mm shaft, and then put the stock tdi camplate and 10mm head in/on it.. there is no reason why it can't make the exact same spec's as when it were e-tdi.. 

It will be able to move the same amount of fuel, and it doesn't seem too hard to do.


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## crsmp5 (May 26, 2005)

well i just took mine for a spin... 50 miles give or take.. night time... 

highest egt i saw was 1250... that was at 18psi.. got a regulator to pop the wastegate.. sadly tach way off with the non ac set up serp belt.. tach was pegged at 6k.. speedo is a good 15mph off.. so was pegged at 85... not a clue to how fast i was going..  

thats stock settings on the rover pump timed to 118 with a gov mod of 4 washers.. and idle screw backed all the way down.. 

not positive what nozzles are in it.. i need to ask myke what he hooked me up with.. 

not blowing coal.. 

direct swap... almost... its like adding a mk4 pump to a mk3 as in you need to have the bracket milled out.. and a mk4 style pully or a modded pump pully for timming adjustment.. was $100 at machine shop to do that.. easier then finding a mk4 pully and no requirements of shimming th epump.. 

the throttle linkage and mount on rear need created.. but pretty easy.. 

i bumped my thread for you on vwdiesel.net... i go ta few pms i can also forward you on it too.. 

for not having to dick with fuel mixture or anything i am very happy with the rover pump.. i will dick with that once i get 500 miles on it.. but for now.. it cruises at no more then 850 egt.. 

just wish i could have found a older td turbo set up for it.. ill keep on that search for next summer..


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## MrDave (Jul 26, 2002)

If you have all the donor bits, why not bite the bullet and install all the electronics?

-Dave


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## vdubjim (Jan 30, 2000)

updates to this tranny swap or tdi swap or tranny swap post?? :laugh:


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

Nothing at all has happened. Life put this on the far back burner.. Its sad but true.

 However Christmas is rolling around and extra hours open up at work, thus meaning extra money to spend on stupid things such as cars. LOL

I think I have made up my mind... M-TDI w/cable clutched, cable shifted 02A. Turbo/injector upgrades in the future. For now I will need to purchase the bits to make the cable clutch work.. and some 16v axles.. and make myself a mechanical tdi pump, preferably from a 2.5 4cyl land-rover unit. 

If anyone has seen som FS threads in their travels I need some mk1 16v axles and mk1 02a mounts.. :beer::beer: It'd be greatly appreciated 

I hope to gather parts over winter, and do this as soon as it gets warm next spring  I'll daily my '67 Mercury when the Jetta goes under the knife :laugh:


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

Hello vee-dub-ular people. :thumbup:

Life has yet taken another **** on me, laid off from work.. but, I have been able to claim EI. So I will have some time on my hands .

I have a good line on new mk1 100mm EMPI axles here in Canada, $95 a piece.

I think I will order these mounts; http://www.ebay.de/itm/Seilzug-Getr...64bb38&clk_rvr_id=291049465560#ht_4266wt_1185

*Does anyone have any leads on full kits to make the 02A cable clutched??*


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## deathhare. (Apr 1, 2008)

Most of the cable clutch parts are NLA new i believe.


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## vdubjim (Jan 30, 2000)

Dude on vortex sells those, alittle cheaper after shipping and $$ conversion. 
nothing-leaves-stock


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

vdubjim said:


> Dude on vortex sells those, alittle cheaper after shipping and $$ conversion.
> nothing-leaves-stock


Which? the cables? or the mounts? Hardly cheaper. $299 + shipping + border fees. $121 + $24 shipping from Deutschland. It would take like $50 from NLS to get them in to Canada i would think.

Has anyone seen any cable clutch bits up for sale lately?


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## nothing-leaves-stock (Mar 1, 2005)

i have the mounts IN STOCK and i have one extra actuator brand new in stock.
then i here a mid 80's CRX cabe fits with minor mods.(i don't have one)
PM me if interested

thanks-josh


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## Shaggy (Jan 20, 2000)

8v-of-fury said:


> I think I will order these mounts; http://www.ebay.de/itm/Seilzug-Getr...64bb38&clk_rvr_id=291049465560#ht_4266wt_1185


I purchased these mounts a few months back. Had an issue with fitment of the rear trans mount right off the bat. Emailed them probably a month or so later to mention the issue and they had a replacement sent out the next day without any questions. 

Haven't had a chance to run the car with them yet, but I'd buy from them again. :thumbup:


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## vdubjim (Jan 30, 2000)

must be the canada thing the border fees?

120 usd after conversion, then im sure 40-60 eur shipping, euro conversion on that, So figure 200 + border fee, plus they are not a local guy to deal with when somethings wrong.


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## Shaggy (Jan 20, 2000)

Shaggy said:


> I purchased these mounts a few months back. Had an issue with fitment of the rear trans mount right off the bat. Emailed them probably a month or so later to mention the issue and they had a replacement sent out the next day without any questions.
> 
> Haven't had a chance to run the car with them yet, but I'd buy from them again. :thumbup:





vdubjim said:


> must be the canada thing the border fees?
> 
> 120 usd after conversion, then im sure 40-60 eur shipping, euro conversion on that, So figure 200 + border fee, plus they are not a local guy to deal with when somethings wrong.


All said and done they were under $150 CDN shipped into Canada. Shipping was 18 euro as quoted on the ebay page. 

As mentioned in the quote above I had an issue with the rear transmission mount immediately when I tried mounting it onto a freshly painted trans. The holes weren't aligning correctly and the mount was binding when trying to tighten it down flush against the case. 

Messaged the seller around a month after purchase to let them know (using freetranslation to relay the message) and they had a new mount in the mail the next day with tracking via DHL, no questions asked. 

Like I said, I'd deal with them all over again if I ever need to. :thumbup:


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## crsmp5 (May 26, 2005)

this is just a tease anyways... :laugh: common prove me wrong.. i wanna see you do that... :thumbup:


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

crsmp5 said:


> this is just a tease anyways... :laugh: common prove me wrong.. i wanna see you do that... :thumbup:


1 month and a little progress  I have acquired over my few years as a dubber a few old diesel fuel pumps. Which I have torn down to the bare pump, cleaned, re-sealed, and sold them. Made a pretty penny on each that i got for next to nothing or on a trade for something i got for free. So 100% profit 

Either way, with my now confident knowledge of dismantling pumps, I am starting to tackle building my m-tdi pump. It will be (to start with) a 1.6 TD pump off of an MF engine, and the innards will be replaced by most of the inner parts from the tdi pump I have. The pump will bolt the AHU block by that of the stock 1.6 diesel mount. I will use the 1.6 timing advance, governor setup, throttle setup and boost enrichment. It will be a barebones base line pump but it will have no issues producing the same 90hp/150tq that the TDI had when it was stock. I will be keeping the intercooler, upping the boost and fuel.. so i see 175 wheel torque as a non issue. :thumbup:

With the money I know have sitting in my paypal from the diesel pumps, I am starting to order necessary pieces  Will be needing a clutch kit to mate it to my 020 transmission, and an 80% peloquin kit as well to keep power at both wheels. No more 1 tire fryer  Among these parts I will also need a new waterpump.. I guess after 400,000km the shaft bearing gets a little play! lol.

Sorry to dissapoint the masses but it is no longer an 02A swap lol. Just the TDI swap.. which is now going to be M-TDI!  eace:


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

New parts are here!

210mm clutch kit -$140










Cast impeller Bosch Waterpump -$25










Some trans seals -$10



























Going back to the spin on filter -$8










New motor mount -$8










I've also started the tear down of the TDI pump. Everything is the same inside, except for the throttle which is an interesting setup. Anyway it looks like everything will swap over very easily in to my 1.6 pump with no issue. I should be able to get that all done up and everything the day i pull my motor.. Hmm better yet, I think I will pull the pump off my motor a few days prior to the scheduled motor pulling and get the pump all built up and back on the TDI and running pre-swap. :thumbup:


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## boardsnow6 (Nov 19, 2010)

:thumbup::thumbup:


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

Her is a good question guys, I will be needing to setup the waste gate for manual operation and not to be told by the computer (that doesn't exist anymore).

The stock k03 turbo conveniently has two braided lines coming up from the turbo to make my life easy but I am new to turbochargers, and don't wanna screw it up eh lol.

So the two lines on the turbo are as follows. Seems one line comes directly from the cold side compressor housing, and the other comes from what i believe to be the waste gate. They both went to a controller and a third line went from there directly to the ECU on the AHU.. I have purchased a well known suppliers Manual Boost Controller;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/25035788444...X:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2648#ht_3756wt_1185

There diagrams tell me it would be best to take my boost supply directly from the turbo housing to resist spiking. So it will go from there to the pumps LDA and from there.. it makes sense to be teed to the waste gate after the MBC. The pump will see the actual psi the turbo produces, and the waste gate will see whatever I tell it with the MBC correct.


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

Well she starts up and runs great even around 0c with no glow whatsoever.. So I must be somewhat close to a good setting. I don't hear any of the old diesel clatter that I did with the IDI either.. 

Pre M-TDI;










Post M-TDI;










Only picture I have from the actual swap.. there is a reason I got it done in 6 hours ok people! lol. I didn't frig around. ;D










Pretty much 96% finished in this next shot. Just to tidy the wiring up that was a mess from before anyway, add the manual boost controller, and get a boost gauge and SHES GOLDEN! Air filter will be getting a thin aluminum surround fabricated, to allow it to draw its air from down under the washer bottle. and not get road gunk from the belt on it. 

ps. You know you love the ABS piping inter-cooler delete  It works ok, and it cost me like $4.. This is an extreme budget build.


















400 Liters of free fuel and I got the drums for free too. Paid $100 total with shipping for this air powered drum pump, something like 20 Liters per minute? it flows real quick through the nearly 1" outlet. This is my introduction to WMO .










Video of it purring away  Love the turbo at idle .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OeLP_OaT2gA&context=C39a8f52ADOEgsToPDskKOZzD-Gyz5hOZJZJrP3ZuS


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

This is how I have my boost lines setup right now.. I think they're right? 

Red is from the turbo housing, blue is to the waste gate. Correct or not?? So this should effectively now make the k03 waste gate open at whatever its stock setting is right. :thumbup:

When my boost gauge arrives, and i find the damn MBC i bought i'll be able to see whats going on.


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## just-jean (Sep 14, 2006)

hope your thread finds a new home in the TDI forum :thumbup::wave:


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

I have not updated this thread in forever amount of time! 

Page 16-22 of my Vwdiesel.net thread. Way easier than rewriting all of the informationz. 

I have since last updating here been through a few pump revisions. Custom hand built M-TDI pump out of a 1.9 AAZ 17mm case, with all of the AHU 10mm internals including the distributor head, and a 1.6TD lid and custom boost pin. 

*Dirtyass aaz pump;* 










*1.9 TDI AHU internals;* 


















*Custom built internal throttle lever;* 


















*And the pump clearancing needed to run it;* 










































*Then came the candy coating ;* 


































*As a result of too much governor shimming (not the throttle the spinning governor weights) I had my pumps cam plate smashing against the governor assembly four times every cycle.. which sent metal through the pump;* 


























*BUT I only even found this out because I found this on my way home one day, which left me stranded..;* 


























*Got it all sorted out only to find out the metal pieces that my pump ate have taken out my pumps ability to produce proper internal pressures required for proper combustion.. 17psi fuel pressure at idle, when it should be 47-50psi. With this fuel pressure gauge I made. This was also running on thicker than diesel fuel, pure 2 stroke motor oil;* 













 
*But heyy that is alright! SAY HELLO TO M-TDI v3.0 :thumbup: Not my video, but a Land Rover pump on a 1Z/AHU;* 





















 
This is currently where I am at. I also have a set of .216 Veg Injection nozzles to go in, which are actually more like a .238 nozzle over the stock .184's . I have a T3 that may make its way on there at a later date, and I also have a CTN 02A TDI trans that needs to get inside my mk1 as well :laugh:. 

All in good time, after all. Up until the purchase of the injectors and LR discovery injection pump.. I had made profit to do this M-TDI swap eace:. Suck on that. :heart:


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## ToddA1 (Apr 22, 2002)

I realize that's not your video, but is that your pump? I recently pucked up a Rover pump.

Are you going the ALH hub and pulley approach? From what I understand, machining the pulley is onlly required if you're running the upper timing cover.

-Todd


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

ToddA1 said:


> I realize that's not your video, but is that your pump? I recently pucked up a Rover pump.
> 
> Are you going the ALH hub and pulley approach? From what I understand, machining the pulley is onlly required if you're running the upper timing cover.
> 
> -Todd


I have actually chosen a not so traveled path, The 20mm Rover shaft with the hub removed has a key way that will allow use of my stock 20mm AHU pulley. This will make the offset perfect, from there I need to enlarge the hole in the mount for the snout of the pump. Needed done regardless unless you picked up a later 1.9 AAZ bracket that utilizes the twisting pulley as well. I have chosen to stick with the twisting pump style setup as opposed to the twisting pulley. I will either elongate the pumps holes to match the old style, or elongate the brackets holes.

Probably the pumps, being that its soft aluminum over the thick steel of the bracket. Ooh, that just made an idea spark in my head. What if I had the snout machined to fit the smaller hub spot.. would mean less downtime for the car too lol.


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## ToddA1 (Apr 22, 2002)

8v-of-fury said:


> I have actually chosen a not so traveled path, The 20mm Rover shaft with the hub removed has a key way that will allow use of my stock 20mm AHU pulley. This will make the offset perfect
> 
> What if I had the snout machined to fit the smaller hub spot.. would mean less downtime for the car too lol.



Interesting.... that sounds too easy. Although I like the idea of turning the pulley to set timing, the AHU pulley should be much easier to find. Is the Rover keyway indexed properly for the AHU pulley?

Don't people say the mainshaft can snap due to the higher TDI spring tension? Personally, I'd leave the mainshaft alone.

How much louder was your M-TDI compared to a standard E-TDI?

-Todd


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

ToddA1 said:


> Interesting.... that sounds too easy. Although I like the idea of turning the pulley to set timing, the AHU pulley should be much easier to find. Is the Rover keyway indexed properly for the AHU pulley?
> 
> Don't people say the mainshaft can snap due to the higher TDI spring tension? Personally, I'd leave the mainshaft alone.
> 
> ...


The rover key way is indexed slightly over, from the AHU's key way. Don't necessarily have to use a pump lock anyway. 

I didn't mean machine the main shaft, the snout of the pump where it fits in the bracket. It is the smaller 17mm shafts that can't handle the higher twisting and pushing force required to move the 12mm head. 

Well, my current Gold pump is acting weird and may have been the entire time.. as I had to time it to 2.10mm to get it to run right.. And right now I still have it timed up near 1.6-75mm So I cannot say as it is not necessarily combusting all to well without the proper advance curve. Also I am running just a down pipe for my exhaust, and the E-TDI was a full exhaust with cat and resonator. 

It is slightly louder than my brothers 1.9AAZ, just a down pipe as well, and a k03 turbo the same. But I attest that to the advance being all off with my internal pressures being off the charts. :laugh:


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

So the CandiPump has met its maker. She is really running rough, lots of cold start smoke, and pitiful performance. Pump is getting a full tear down tomorrow morning, and I will be building another M-TDI pump to get me by until my Rover pump gets here in the next few weeks. Yup N/A pump with a 10mm head and DI internals  Who needs an LDA!? 




































Oil pressures fantastic though! Cold idle first, Hot idle second. 0w40 full synthetic. Taken from the head.




















LOVE the HD capabilities of my phone!


----------



## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)




----------



## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

1 year to the day almost.. SLACKER. PICTURES !

*Got a 2.25: exhaust made up last May.*



*Redid my nozzles, which needed them IMMENSELY. .216" Veg Injection nozzles on stock OE bodies.*




*Got rid of the stock oil cooler, as well as the EGR. New rad, bottle.. hoses, and other misc stuff. General bay clean-up.*






*H&R Springs and KONI STR.T's *





*New brakes up front. Calipers, lines, rotors and pads.*





*FIRST YEAR WITH SNOW TIRES! Whoa she is unstoppable..*





*Put some mkiv automatic tdi starters on my 84 M-tdi, my brothers 84 AAZ and my gf's 1.6TD (these are 020 compatible.).. they rock. Notice there is no "shaft" therefore no bushing i nthe trans to worry about.. *









*Had the car up in the air today, noticed I have a crack in my rear frame rail..*


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

Pulled my dash out to do a heater core and blower motor replacement. Also I started to tidy up all the aftermarket circuits I have made up myself as I have gone.. lol Manual glow plug relay, manual rad fan relay, stereo power and ground directly to battery, gauges and their lighting, an extra 12v source. Basically I just ran them wherever when I put them in, so I am fixing that right now lol. The worst is the stereo speaker wiring.. not done by me. The PO I guess added his own wiring to all four speakers, and they are JUST long enough to hook the stereo up when it is out of the dash. They need extending! Charges at 15v with absolutely nothing hooked up and a cold start.. haha





I broke the damned stud off in the body today for the rear trans mount.. Luckily it was the softest steel bolt of all time and I had absolutely no issue drilling it out lol. I put a good strong grade through bolt in, we'll see if she holds up. Also luckily it was the front one which was in that body lip.. I dunno what I would have done to fix the rear one had it of stripped off. 




I bought a few Cabriolet clusters to convert their tachs to be diesel for both my brothers and my 1.9 diesel mk1's. It is not as easy as you'd think. lol Had to wrap your brain around it when you haven't touched this type of electrical in 10 years.


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

Looka dees funky things inside my new heater core from Valeo, I heard some **** rattling around in it so I had to pop an end cap off and have a look see




Normally the drivers side of the heater core flops around and is NOT sealed to the cabin from the cold air being forced down upon the top of it.. Well it is now  Taped the seam the whole way round the box as well, SEALED. I also did the piece that connects the dash to the heater box for the defrost.





I installed a new cabin fan as well, but small differences in how it fit the heater box to my original.. I had to use silicone to properly seal around its perimeter. It did not come with a rubber seal (why the hell wouldn't it?) so I made do. Probably better anyway, the silicone won't break down over time like the rubber did. I also siliconed the heater box back up to the raintray so it too is sealed water tight. While I had the coolant drained I installed a Stant 90c (195f) thermostat to replace the 70c (160f) one I had in there. This along with my front air blocker, should keep cabin temps way up. Next up is pulling all of the door cards and re doing the vapor barrier there, as I get some nasty drafts through the inner door handle.. 

I have a window seal to do (next week, need the car this weekend), axle flanges (brand new) and seals, and a turbo drain gasket. Should be good to go then until like February before something else goes awry.. lol


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

You'll never guess what makes a diesel angry on cold start?? 3 1/2 dead glow plugs! 3 were right done, and the 4th would warm up but not glow red at all no matter how long you gave it 12v. How in the hell was it starting down to -22c?!? 415psi that is how.. lol Checked compression for the first time ever of my ownership of this engine (4 years), and damn. Not bad for 500k+ kms.. 

I replaced them all with 4 good known used ones that I took from a customers car because he insisted on replacing his as a maintenance item. Don't blame him. Plus hey, I got a free set of plugs! haha. 

Put in new axle cup flanges as my old ones had bad grooves and were leaking gear oil pretty badly.. so I had a chance to check out my peloquin %80 kit, it has no hit marks on the bolt head which some said it would.. I ground the two axle snubs down about 1/16th so I guess it worked. I am at stock ride height as well. 





4" exhaust to 6" tip anyone?? 




This thing is going ot be getting some love hopefully in the next little bit..


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

Well well well!

Wouldn't you know it, starts much better with 4 functioning glow plugs! It was -15C today and it didn't even hesitate and there was much less smoke on cold start up.

The only thing I notice is the idle will not hold high when cold, or when a heavy alternator load is present.. like after glow off the plugs.

Likely this is a setting issue, but being a Land Rover pump its a beast that has no written way lol.. 

Any advice? I have been wracking my brain.


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## flying_oliver (Apr 29, 2013)

Looks like those Canadian winters have left behind a little rust!
Question. Do you have any pictures of the Auber Instruments EGT and BOOST gauges installed? 

Getting the cabby tach to work for diesel took some effort for me when I did it. Although I had very little idea how the electronics worked, I found some info deep down in a thread.


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

flying_oliver said:


> Looks like those Canadian winters have left behind a little rust!
> Question. Do you have any pictures of the Auber Instruments EGT and BOOST gauges installed?
> 
> Getting the cabby tach to work for diesel took some effort for me when I did it. Although I had very little idea how the electronics worked, I found some info deep down in a thread.


I still have the dash out of the car, so no pictures of the install. I plan to run them where my ashtray was, above one another. As well as install an aftermarket 12v plug there.. the Mk1 cig lighter doesn't hold modern 12v stuff worth a crap. I am thinking on of those combo ones, a 12v plug and USB power above it. 

She has been a daily driven Ontario car since brand new in 1984. Not bad for 30 winters on the road of Ontario.. trust me.. there are Mk6's here with the same amount of rust. 

Don't suppose you could shed any light on the tach issue? I never gave it much thought to figure out..


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## flying_oliver (Apr 29, 2013)

*Gas tach to diesel vw rabbit cabriolet*



8v-of-fury said:


> I still have the dash out of the car, so no pictures of the install. I plan to run them where my ashtray was, above one another. As well as install an aftermarket 12v plug there.. the Mk1 cig lighter doesn't hold modern 12v stuff worth a crap. I am thinking on of those combo ones, a 12v plug and USB power above it.
> 
> She has been a daily driven Ontario car since brand new in 1984. Not bad for 30 winters on the road of Ontario.. trust me.. there are Mk6's here with the same amount of rust.
> 
> Don't suppose you could shed any light on the tach issue? I never gave it much thought to figure out..


Ah ok. When you do get them installed I'm assuming you will post pics.

Oh dang. That is nothing then. You plan to ever blast it off or something? JW.

Time to go dig up some threads. Lets see here.... the first link leads to the second, but I will post them individually. It takes a while to read it all but it is a good read and hopefully you will find your version of the tach somewhere. 
basic info: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=267380

Getting close (if your lucky your schematic is posted here): http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=3741.0

I found a list of resistor values and what to change them too somewhere in this thread deep down (end of page 4, beginning of 5. Yours may be different). http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=dd66104b27de3acf919261a210866ee9&topic=3096.0


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## red85GTi (Feb 25, 2005)

I just went through the whole thread and I gotta say I am impressed! You did a lot of work in the last year or two. I really want to go M-TDi as well and I have found a cheap pump online at http://www.hansdieselparts.com/RebuiltMTDIPump.htm but I am unsure how it will work in the end... I guess it is worth 500$ to find out lol
Keep up the good work :beer:


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

Flying_Oliver here is an interior shot of where they will be going.. Making a fiberglass pod as we speak to house both of them as well as two 12v plugs and a two plug usb plug in.






Red85GTI, thanks for the kind words. I would strongly advise against buying "a setup M-TDI pump" especially from anyone in NORTH CAROLINA by the name of Peter Rothenbacher. He is also hansdiesel, and emiata.. too many **** business names to keep up with.

Not worth your time or money my friend. You would spend less to import a Land Rover 300TDI pump and retro fit what little there is to make it work.. and it would be a golden M-tdi pump right out of the box.

*Some more pictures!* I got some good weather stripping around the heater core, and it is air tight.. but apparently the core is crap so it does STILL not blow good heat. Must be restricted internally.. or something.. because it does not blow good heat. Both hoses entering the core are hot as ****, so it should be.. wth, who knows.. I also did a new tensioner and arm bushings while i had the pump out for ease of everything. At the same time I put on new timing covers, and a new water pump pulley that fit properly without hacking the lower timing cover.. haha.










*Did some pump reno.* Different cam-plate. Stopped using a 1.9AAZ one and started using the stock 1.9 AHU TDI one DE110. I also changed some springs on the governor assembly to get a more solid idle out of it. Timed currently to 1.25mm. I may try advancing to 1.30mm tomorrow for experiments sake. Mileage is through the roof right now, but could it get better? ! 







*RELAY'd the headlights.* Cleaned up all the under hood circuitry that connected to the battery posts.. with a fuse block and neater routing of wiring in loom. Also got a new set of Autopal H4/H1's. 90/100W in the outer housings, and 100w highs inside. 






ADD LED TO CLUSTER!! ****ty picture in the dark of the LED lol... I took an already resisted LED light strip and added it to the cluster, It is a little brighter than stock.. but shouldn't burn out for the rest of the life of this vehicle lol.


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)




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## damac2004 (Jun 18, 2010)

I put a couple bright white leds in my cluster and liked it the best over the green color strip.

I sand them and/or use milk plastic bottle to diffuse the light. I like to get the single prewired pieces off ebay for cheap, then I just solder and hot glue stuff into place.

I redid the whole dash in my 82 truck while I had it out and experimented with colored and white single led's and experimented in the dark with all the dash controls and was surprised that I found a nicer, clearer less harsh experience in practically every spot with the white led's and stock diffusers, etc. left in place.


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

Yeah, I thought about putting single LED's in the original bulb holders.. but then a $10 LED strip was there, and I was like Eff that. lol

They are a super bright WHITE through the factory green diffuser. It is centered because i should have used two strips and didn't like a moron. It will be coming back out so I can add the other one .


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## flying_oliver (Apr 29, 2013)

8v-of-fury said:


>


:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
Love the stickers.

Also, I like how causally you mention playing around with the different parts in the diesel pump. I'm a little intimidated by it and do my best not to mess with mine...haha
Keep up the mk1 love :thumbup:


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## puebla (Sep 9, 2003)

Love this thread. Any updates?


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

Nothing major at the moment, is there anything in particular that you would like to know? lol


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

HUGE U PDATE! had this thing RIGHT ripped apart over the last month.. Oh wow! stuff I have not ever addressed in my ownership so this was all a first for me and this car lol. So my windshield seal was leaking for my entire ownership since summer of 2007, it was so severely dry rotted.. last year or two, all rain falls would create a puddle in my car.. so I installed drains, in the way of treated holes drilled in the floor valleys, little 3/16 holes in a few strategic spots, that were then coated with stuff to prevent rust. So with this I had the windshield out, and all the carpet and floor coverings as well to POR15 any rust and lay down some Bed Armor truck bed lining. Damn good stuff!  


*Damn, the trunk WAS BAD!!!!!!! Pretty much the entire seam for the entire rear valence was FLIPPIN ROTTEN!*









*I got fancy with a 4.5" cut off wheel on my angle grinder and cut out most of the rot that i could, the rest got flap wheeled/wire brushed/sanded and then treated to about 7 coats of POR15.. well it all did really.. After I got the angle welded in. This was quite literally my first ever time welding, and this was most certainly a 100% no name (literally the welder has nothing anywhere on it..) $98 welder from Liquidation Nation.. NOT BAD!! LOL I wish they all looked this good! As can be seen, it is way more solid then it was with OE trunk floor.. I weigh 288 and standing on one foot at the back of the trunk didnt make anything move at all. POR15's metal prep is some awesome **** by the way.. definitely suggest their products *













*Then the window came out, because it was slowly killing my car by keeping the carpet SOPPING wet all year long. I just cut around the glass with a good sharp blade on the outside, and popped it out. Cleaned it up, a few spots needed some POR15 in the frame.. but it was mostly good. $34 seal from interwebz and it popped back in.. took like 8 tries, but eventually.. it was in.*








*The floors.. man, I was fearing the worst from what the tar looked like under the carpet.. I was scared as hell it was gonna be rot. To my surprise however (just like the window frame) No rot at all.. some surface rust here and there.. but damn. clean floors. Air chisel, wd-40, wire wheel for scuffing, POR15 degreaser, POR15 metal prep and some POR15 w/fiberglass cloth and it was all sealed up for good.*













*Then I threw down 3 coats of Bed Armor bed liner. 1 qt was enough to do the 1 thin tack coat, and 2 VERY thick coats afterwards. with about 24 hours drying/curing time between coats. Not needed, but I wanted absolution.. lol*







*All back together and sitting 4x4 status because of a COMPLETELY empty trunk and gutted interior, there was only the driver seat in for this picture. I used a goood gooood amount of black silicone/rtv to install the tails this time. There is no leaks what so ever now on the back end of the car. Perfect. I don't seem to have any pictures of the inside of the trunk for the POR15 and longhair fiber glass bondo i did to seal everything up internally. I am going to prep and do the ENTIRE trunk in the Bed Armor as well.. it is a really superb product for sure *


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## damac2004 (Jun 18, 2010)

I'm glad I live in cali  A truck I got sat for years with a seeping puddle on the drivers side floor under the seat and all it did was seperate the coating in that area and leave it cracked in easy pieces to pick off and put in the garbage. That stuff vw used looks like its thicker than the metal?

Did you put the windshield in by yourself? I didn't think that was possible, and do you have to use a rope?


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## Maggiolone (Aug 20, 2007)

Great save right here!


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

damac2004 said:


> I'm glad I live in cali  A truck I got sat for years with a seeping puddle on the drivers side floor under the seat and all it did was seperate the coating in that area and leave it cracked in easy pieces to pick off and put in the garbage. That stuff vw used looks like its thicker than the metal?
> 
> Did you put the windshield in by yourself? I didn't think that was possible, and do you have to use a rope?


Sorry i missed this reply! I actually used like 18awg wire.. as it was stronger than the rope (which i kept breaking).



Maggiolone said:


> Great save right here!


WHY THANK-YOU!  lol I've had this car 8 years.. and I've driven it damn near every day of those 8 years.


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## CBarnes302 (Mar 16, 2014)

So, I know this was 5 years ago, but where the hell did a1's reply get to? I'm tackling this ahu mk1 project right now, and there's no such thing as too much knowledge.


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## 8v-of-fury (Jul 15, 2008)

He was a douche canoe and deleted them all on his own accord. 

 Sorry bud, but yeah thats what happened.


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## mp_caddy (Jan 21, 2011)

Best thing for a windshield install is 3mm surgical tubing. Now way you can break it and slides right through with a little silicone sprayed around the edge before you start.


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## mammonista (Dec 6, 2014)

*Same swap - and a stupid question! *

Hi Jeremy?
Was doing a search on Vortex for my upcoming '83 MK1 Jetta coupe swap and noticed you did the exact same thing a few years back. I'm putting a 1.9TDI out of a '96 Passat into the Jetta in the next few weeks and would appreciate any help you can give me. I bought a Rover 300TDI (mechanical) pump out of England and also some Bosio 520 injectors. Had an adjustable pump pulley machined but will wait until I've sorted out the clutch and 02a trans and have that bolted up. 
The car came from the factory with a 1.6td mated to a 3-speed auto. A PO must have blown that motor because now it has a NA 1.6 and the injector pump is leaking pretty badly from the cold start lever, making the car undriveable (unless you don't care about leaving puddles of #2 while sitting at red lights - and I do!)
Here's the stupid question - I'm pretty set on using the Passat 5-speed and going with the whole cable shifter thing, but I was just curious... Is the auto trans compatible with the AHU engine? Would it bolt up? Would it be able to handle 110hp?
Mark


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