# 86 QSW bulletproof tiger



## 4doorhoor (Aug 31, 2005)

Starting a new thread to address general problems I'm having.









I have a slow draw on the battery, takes about three days and it's dead. It seems like there is a few unneeded wires here. I have no alarm or stereo but both have been installed in the past. Car is an 86 qsw. Are all those connectors supposed to be there?
Also, I am getting a reading of 13.3 volts at the battery with all accessories off, and 13.09 with brights, dome light, rear def. and wipers.
It also just broke the alt belt. I replaced it and there is a little squeak. what should the readings be with a good alt.?


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## Longitudinal (Nov 13, 2004)

*Re: 86 QSW bulletproof tiger (4doorhoor)*

The one that jumps out at me is the large red wire attached directly to the clamp bolt. The main power wire to the starter is still there. Where does the big red one go?


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## eurowner (Jan 26, 2002)

*FV-QR*

All those wires are oem; leave them.
Do the correct thing and find out why the battery is draining: drain? bad battery? bad battery?


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## 4doorhoor (Aug 31, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (eurowner)*

The battery is brand new. How do you suggest finding the source of the draw?

I have a leaky seal/drain somewhere. The water is coming in right around the fuse panel. What should I check out?


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## Southcross (Jul 2, 2004)

*FV-QR*

common source of a battery killing draw is an alternator, radiator fan, etc that has an internal short
_for the life of me... I can't remember the proper way to test them with a volt meter







_
edit... I remember!
unbolt the alternator & brackets (or fan/etc) from the engine, but leave the cables connected. Uusing a volt meter or a test light... with the engine off, you should have no voltage present if you use the tester to ground the case of the alternator/fan to the engine block. If there is then the internal windings are shorted... 


_Modified by Southcross at 2:29 PM 10-6-2009_


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## 4doorhoor (Aug 31, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Southcross)*

About to test it. Thanks!
1. How about the leak?
2. My wiper motor doesn't move when I switch it to high speed. Is it possible to replace it with a faster speeded motor such as a mk3 unit?


_Modified by 4doorhoor at 9:27 AM 10-7-2009_


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## eurowner (Jan 26, 2002)

*FV-QR*

QSW = MKII wiper motor. Most likel have a bad relay.
I use a test light between battery - and the cable end; leave everything bolted up. I have experienced drains with Bosch alternators before.
Leak: Bottom corner of windshield gasket, antenna hole from firewall.


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## 4doorhoor (Aug 31, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (eurowner)*

Found the leak, it was the antenna hole. There was no gasket in it and the water went straight from the gutter to that hole and then into the car. Found a gasket at the yard and then reinforced it with some Silicone.
I don't have a testlight, just the multimeter. I put the ground on the block, and the power to the cable at the alt. Got the same reading as the battery terminal showed. I'm guessing this is not a substitute for the way you described?
I will get a relay for the wipers. 
1. Would a bad relay only cut out the high speed?
2. Is there supposed to be a small hole on the end of the t fitting behind the diff lock control nob?
3. Should I be able to hear any air from there at any time? Because I do, always.

Thanks!


_Modified by 4doorhoor at 6:19 PM 10-8-2009_


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## Southcross (Jul 2, 2004)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *4doorhoor* »_
I don't have a testlight, just the multimeter. I put the ground on the block, and the power to the cable at the alt. Got the same reading as the battery terminal showed. I'm guessing this is not a substitute for the way you described?


not the positive cable.. the housing of the _whatever_... the housing shouldn't be grounded unless the alternator is spinning, the ground of the radiator fan should be the ground pin not the body, etc...


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## DubbinChris (Dec 15, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (4doorhoor)*


_Quote, originally posted by *4doorhoor* »_
3. Should I be able to hear any air from there at any time? Because I do, always.

Pretty sure you're never suppose to hear anything. Time to replace some vacuum lines.


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## 4doorhoor (Aug 31, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Southcross)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Southcross* »_
not the positive cable.. the housing of the _whatever_... the housing shouldn't be grounded unless the alternator is spinning, the ground of the radiator fan should be the ground pin not the body, etc...

Ok, so I tested the body of the alt also, it did not show any power. Is that good?


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## 4doorhoor (Aug 31, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (4doorhoor)*

So las night after being parked for a couple hours and pretty dang cool, my radiator fan comes on and doesn't turn off. I had to unplug it.
The fan switch and relay are new. What would cause this?


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## Southcross (Jul 2, 2004)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *4doorhoor* »_
Ok, so I tested the body of the alt also, it did not show any power. Is that good?


yep... now test that radiator fan








I am not sure, since I do not have a Quantum service manual.... on some models the power goes directly to the fan and the switch/relay acts to ground the fan motor, if the fan is shorted internally it might trip on and run till the batt is dead... OR... you have a short in either the relay wiring (fusebox) or the wiring to the temp switch. Do QSWs have the afterrun fan system? if so there is a temp switch by the fuel injectors that might trip the fan on.


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## 4doorhoor (Aug 31, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Southcross)*

Power does go directly to the fan motor with the switch on the rad. It also has the after run thing. I will check this out, I really hope its the switch and not a short.

I did just fix a leak that went straight onto the fuse panel though.


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## 4doorhoor (Aug 31, 2005)

*Re: 86 QSW bulletproof tiger (4doorhoor)*

I also have a sort of ticking sound which I think is coming from the exhaust manifold gasket. would a bad gasket there sort of click/ get louder when rev'd? 
I don't think it is the lifters. I do have a sticky one of those though, clacks a bit sometimes.


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## eurowner (Jan 26, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Ticking can be exhaust leak, fallen lifter, or most likely secondary vacuum pump pushrod.


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## 4doorhoor (Aug 31, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (4doorhoor)*


_Quote, originally posted by *4doorhoor* »_
1. Would a bad relay only cut out the high speed of the wiper?


?

_Quote, originally posted by *4doorhoor* »_
3. Should I be able to hear any air from there at any time? Because I do, always.


My center diff does not lock, only the rear.
It seems like the air I hear is coming off the hose second closest to the nob, which would be the rear diff if I'm not mistaken?
So The only thing I can find in the bentley on the diff lock system is showing how to remove the nob in the interior and then showing the vacuum lines in a sort of wiring diagramish way.
Is there some sort of trouble shooting for this?
Can you suggest a procedure for replacing lines/checking fittings?


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## Southcross (Jul 2, 2004)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *4doorhoor* »_I do have a sticky one of those though, clacks a bit sometimes.


the best solution I have for helping to clear a sticking lifter. go to your FAPS and purchase a can of SeaFoam (round metal can, while label, about 1 pint). Add about 2oz to your engine oil, the lifter tick will go away in less than two weeks (the more you drive it & hotter your oil, the faster it goes away).


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## DubbinChris (Dec 15, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (4doorhoor)*


_Quote, originally posted by *4doorhoor* »_
Is there some sort of trouble shooting for this?
Can you suggest a procedure for replacing lines/checking fittings?


Just get a piece of line...take it to your local German flaps and buy several feet of it b/c it's cheap. Then just replace as much vacuum line as you can. It will likely fix your problem as well as be cheap insurance against future leaks. Otherwise you can pull the few screws that hold down the center console and with a spraybottle of water and small amount of liquid soap use a fine mist to try and locate the exact leak and replace just that line.


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## 4doorhoor (Aug 31, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (DubbinChris)*

I will be getting the sea foam done soon, as well as a new wiper motor.
I got the Diffs to lock correctly today!
I just took apart the console and replaced the t fitting/knob control with one from the junkyard, then just jiggled the lines around up there and down on the diff. Seems to have fixed it somewhat, though I'm sure I need to replace all the vacuum line in order to fix it correctly.
I also got the fan to stop coming on and I think that fixed the battery drain issue. It has been testing with the same voltage after about 12 hours or so.
Should I try to replace the red and green tubing on the center diff vacuum lines also, or just the black vacuum lines? If so, how? They seem to be pretty solidly in there.








Thanks a lot so far guys!


_Modified by 4doorhoor at 10:41 PM 10-12-2009_


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## moonstation 2000 (Jun 25, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (4doorhoor)*

U sure it is not the diff switch itself that is leaking? Mine was and I had to replace it with one from an audi 4000. 
Btw, if you get one from an audi, make sure you cut the air lines and take them too, they are color coded the same as the syncro and take the guesswork out of how to hook up the switch. At least that's how it was with mine.
The audi switch is a nice piece, much more solid that the orig.


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## 4doorhoor (Aug 31, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (moonstation 2000)*

Nope, I'm not sure of that. However the only one I could get my hands on at this point is off another QSW but it has twice as many miles as mine.
Gonna see what the vacuum lines do first. What about those red and green tubes?


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## quantum.johnson (Jan 11, 2006)

just the black vacuum lines


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## 4doorhoor (Aug 31, 2005)

*Re: (quantum.johnson)*

I've been driving the car for the past month or so with no problems. I am loving the hell out of this thing!
New problems arise however. I was up at the mountain the other day with about a foot of snow in a parking lot, locked diffs, messing around sliding and what not.
As i left the parking lot there was a distinct thump/vibration through the steering wheel, no audible sound at all, even at full steering lock. I can actually let go of the wheel and watch it jerk slightly to the left * at rhythmic intervals *at low speed. Then it increases to a vibration at higher speeds. It seemed to get worse as the drive home went on, like 60 miles. 

The car always had a small pull to the left and the steering wheel was offset to the left a bit while driving straight. Now that this has happened it still pulls to the left, but the wheel is straight at speed. 
Nothing seems out of the ordinary after visual inspection/wiggling stuff around.
I am thinking maybe drivers side, inner cv?




_Modified by 4doorhoor at 5:07 PM 11-13-2009_


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## eurowner (Jan 26, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Wheels full of snow.........
Ball joints.
Tie rod ends.
Control arm bushings.
Upper strut mount.
Bent rim.
Warped rotors.


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## 4doorhoor (Aug 31, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (eurowner)*

It is not a bent wheel, tire bubble, or wheel full of snow.
The strut mount would clack on bumps and stuff only, not rhythmically, right?
The others are entirely possible, how can I check?


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## eurowner (Jan 26, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Put the front wheels up, set the frame rails on jackstands and wiggle the front wheels


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## 4doorhoor (Aug 31, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (eurowner)*

I did that, but only one front wheel at a time. Seemed to only have a little play left to right on both, nothing vertical. 
What would I be looking for with both wheels off?


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