# How far do I take the paint removal?



## gamblinfool (Sep 28, 2001)

I'm going to be taking a Mars red mk1 scirocco and painting it to a dark silver that I have yet to finalize.
I'm trying to do this as thoroughly as possible without *really* going overboard (i.e., I don't want to spend a year prepping the damn thing).
My plans are these:
1) remove hood, fenders, doors, hatch and all windows
2) sand blast (w/ material(s) yet to be finalized) all "non-visible surfaces" including cabin side of floorpan, underdash area, engine bay, trunk area, inside of doors...
My questions are these:
1) Should I use the blasting with a softer material to remove the external paint and prep and primer or just prep and primer?
I'm definitely concerned about marring the "visible" external surfaces with blasting but I don't want to have Mars red come through if, God forbid, someone scratched it down the road...








The car is a California car so existing rust is virtually non-existant. The prep work will be done outside in the Spring time and early Summer in the San Francisco area so some moisture is a concern, but frequent rain is not. I intend to primer all areas as I progress with the best rattle-can primer I can obtain. 
A big part of the problem lies in the fact that I will most likely not have the time to prep the car all at once and I DO NOT want to leave anything exposed...
The paint job will hopefully consist of 3 coats color, 3 clear. Or whatever my approximately $3k X-mas bonus will buy!








Any input is more than appreciated! Thanks, Jeff http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


_Modified by gamblinfool at 8:54 PM 8-15-2003_


----------



## exxcomm (Jun 13, 2003)

*Re: How far do I take the paint removal? (gamblinfool)*

Sounds sweet! if there is no rust involved @ this time, I'd say skip the full blasting and hand sand any dings to smooth then primer and paint. If you want to get rid of the Mars red, just blast the exterior and keep the factory paint for added protection on the inside. 
Just my opinion, but I live in ILL (is that a name of a state or a state that is named? ;^ } ) where the salt flows freely from Nov. to Apr. and extra protection is never a bad thing!


----------



## 92VdubSLC (Mar 6, 2001)

*Re: How far do I take the paint removal? (exxcomm)*

If your spending 3K on a paint job DO NOT rattle can the car in primer....else youll be doing a LOT more sanding. Personally...I would not sandblast the whole car. If theres no rust and its never had a respray i woulnt sand blast anything. DA the whole car with 320 and spray it with real primer...not rattle can.


----------



## gamblinfool (Sep 28, 2001)

*Re: How far do I take the paint removal? (92VdubSLC)*

I was told by someone that there's an $8/can primer that's supposedly sufficient. Is it too good to be true?


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 2, 1999)

*Re: How far do I take the paint removal? (gamblinfool)*









I feel your pain man.








I would have to concur with several of the points that have been made by previous posters. You have to weigh for yourself how far you want to strip the car down and what types of ways you find suitable to strip the paint off based upon the chemicals, work area, and time you have available. In the case of my car the paint was removed via sander and then primed, fixed, and then primed again. In this case my painter referred to the final stage of priming as "sealing" the body so that the bodywork was finished and sealed against the elements to prevent rust and to ensure that he had a good basis to work from.
I would also take the steps and funds necessary to have the car professionally primed because the paint job will only be as good as the surface that you are working from. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Good luck... Sciroccos are worth the effort.


----------



## chris24g (Jan 12, 2000)

*Re: How far do I take the paint removal? (gamblinfool)*

Just DA sand down to the gray primer underneath. That will save you from having to reseal the car. Don't sandblast yourself. It will take for-fricken-ever. You will have literally a ton of sand around you by the time you are done. Not to mention you will need a blasting suit and hood (not just face shield... the sand bounces off stuff and ricochets underneath a face shield...personal experience). Get it blasted professionally or just scuff up the surfaces by hand.


----------



## gamblinfool (Sep 28, 2001)

*Re: How far do I take the paint removal? (chris24g)*

ttt


----------



## Vdubs (May 16, 2001)

*Re: How far do I take the paint removal? (gamblinfool)*

Everybody is right don't sandblast it, just sand it with a DA, use 180 if you want to remove the red then prime or just 320 and paint the color on.
The factory primer is very strong, you should never remove it unless it's necessary.
Use a high quality epoxy primer.
I wouldn't take the fenders off either unless you need to.


----------



## charlier (Mar 9, 2001)

*Re: How far do I take the paint removal? (gamblinfool)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gamblinfool* »_The paint job will hopefully consist of 3 coats color, 3 clear. Or whatever my approximately $3k X-mas bonus will buy! 


Have you spoken to some body shops to see if they can do the paint work for your budget? More importantly has the paint shop you have chosen agreed to spray the vehicle if you do the prep work. Given the importance of proper preparation, some body shops will not spray cars unless they do the prep work. If they do allow you to do the prep work they just might have you sign a document which absolves them of any responsibility should the paint crack, chip or otherwise fail due to the prep work you did.


----------



## codydaniels (Apr 9, 2002)

*Re: How far do I take the paint removal? (gamblinfool)*

You might check at your local vo-tech and see if they have a body shop.Talk to the instructer and see if he would be interested in useing your car for the class to paint.You will have to pay for materials but it will be cheaper than a high end shop and better than a quick shop.It might take a bit longer but they will do a good job since there grades depend on it.


----------



## ketch (Jun 23, 2001)

*Re: How far do I take the paint removal? (gamblinfool)*

Any bare metal exposed must have a acid etch primer or Zero Rust applied, THEN the surface primer may be applied.
The use of and acid etch or Zero Rust are required to keep moisture from reaching the metal.
Regular surface primers, base coats and clears absorb water and it goes down until it reaches a barrier. 
On OEM finished vehicles, that is what the "e-coat" does, stops the mositure, IE, the rusting in the future.
If you look at a new replacement part, you will notice they have a black finish, this is not a surface primer, but an "e-coat", usually applied to film build of 1.2 to 1.5 mil.
Check with any I-CAR certified shop and they will tell you the same.
Ketch


----------

