# Replacing the Speaker (turn signal sound generator) Inside the Instrument Cluster



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

A few days ago, the 'tick-tock' sound that normally indicates that a turn signal is active disappeared from my car. A number of other sounds disappeared at the same time - the lights on with driver door open chime, the single-side parking light chime, the 4 way flasher chime, etc.

I know that these sounds are generated within the instrument cluster. I also know that the instrument cluster is very expensive, about $1,000 to replace the whole cluster. I did a bit of investigation and found out that the Touareg owners have also encountered this same problem, and have come up with an inexpensive fix - just replace the tiny little speaker that is inside the instrument cluster. The challenge, of course, is to find a new speaker.

A quick search through eBay found several North American vendors who were offering the exact OEM speaker - but for about $85 !!! Changing the search criteria on eBay so as to search vendors worldwide (rather than just in North America, which is the default if you are visiting eBay from North America) found an eBay vendor in Germany who sells the exact same OEM speaker for €9.99 - about $13. Shipping from Germany to my home in Canada is another $13, for a total of $26.

The eBay listing I purchased from is here: Touareg Turn Signal Chime. That listing was made by an eBay seller by name of relumax_de (relumax _underscore _de). This company has an eBay store, it is here. eBay listings come and go, so, if the above links do not work, here is the website of the company: http://relumax.de/. There's not much information at that website either, so, for future reference, here is the name and address of the vendor:

Herr Werner Schindler
Relumax
Neuburger Strasse 169d
D-86167 Augsburg

Anyway - I ordered the little speaker, and paid with Paypal, and 5 days later (that's darn fast for international shipping), the part arrived at my home on Vancouver Island. It was carefully packaged and in perfect condition. I was impressed - a fair price, and fantastic service.

*The Replacement Speaker*









The only unanswered question was whether or not it would work in a Phaeton instrument cluster. Because the same speaker is used in the Touareg and Porsche Cayenne instrument clusters, and those two cars are very close relations (electronics-wise) to the Phaeton, I figured it would. So, I took the car apart today to install the new speaker. It worked, I now have my turn signal sounds back, and I am a happy person.

Here's how to go about replacing the speaker in the instrument cluster -

First, you have to remove the instrument cluster from the car. This is not a particularly difficult job, it took me about an hour (working leisurely) to do. You will need a Torx 20 and Torx 25 screwdriver to get the instrument cluster out. You will also need a very short Torx 20 to get access to two fasteners under the steering wheel, and finally, you will need what I think is a Torx 10 to take the instrument cluster apart.

You will also need a trim tool (a 'bone'), and a small hook to help ease the instrument cluster out of the instrument panel. That's pretty much it for tools - it is a simple job.

*IMPORTANT - DON'T OVERLOOK THE ACTIONS IN THE NEXT TWO PARAGRAPHS!*
Before doing anything, unlock all the doors on the car, and open the trunk lid. You won't be able to do these actions once you remove the instrument cluster.

Lower the steering wheel to the lowest possible position, then fully extend it outwards. Finally, rotate the steering wheel so that it is in the centered (straight ahead) position, and engage the steering wheel lock so that it is held in the straight ahead position.

Start the disassembly process by removing the two plastic bezels from around the switches on either side of the instrument cluster. Use the trim tool to gently pry these bezels off.

*Remove the two bezels*









Once you have the bezels off, remove the two fasteners that hold each switch assembly (left and right sides of the instrument cluster) in place.

*Remove the two fasteners holding each switch in place*









Swing each switch assembly inwards, towards the center of the instrument cluster. The repair manual instructions are not too clear about this, but the picture below shows what to do - the same concept applies to the switch panel on the other side.

*Pivot the switch assemblies towards the center of the instrument cluster*









*Unplug the Electrical Connector*









Set the switch assemblies and the four fasteners (two from each side) off to one side.

Next, you have to open the lower fuse panel (using the release handle that is in the driver footwell), and remove two fasteners from below the steering wheel. This is where you will need a stubby screwdriver, there is only a few inches of space available.

*Removing fasteners under the steering wheel*









*Remove the small part that these fasteners held in place*









Now you have to wiggle the frame of the trim piece that surrounds the steering wheel free. It is held in place by a couple of snap-lock fittings on each side, so, be patient when you are attempting to wiggle this free - eventually, it will give up and snap out of place.

*Remove the larger trim piece around the steering wheel opening*









Next, remove BOTH fasteners on either side of the instrument cluster opening. The repair manual states that only one should be removed (the forward-most one, closest to the instrument cluster), but I found that it was easiest to proceed if I removed both of them.

*Remove two fasteners on each side*









Once you have removed these fasteners, you can pop the tray in front of the instrument panel free. It is held in place by a spring-clip on either side of the steering wheel (in addition to the aft-most fastener). Stuff your trim tool in where the arrows are pointing in the picture below, and pop the spring-clips free of the holes they fit into. Be careful here - those holes are in the very thin horizontal trim strips below the tray, and those thin strips won't withstand much bending before they break. So, work patiently.

*Stuff a trim tool in where the arrows are to release the shelf in front of the instrument panel*









*Once the shelf is loose, it looks like this*









Now, use a Torx 25 screwdriver to release the two fasteners (one on either side) that hold the actual instrument cluster in place.










Coaxing the instrument cluster to come out of its recess underneath the binnacle is not easy. It's wedged in there pretty tight (it is a friction-fit), and there are no handles to grab onto. Eventually, I realized that I needed to pull it out, using a small tool that had a 90° bend at the end.

The two sets of pictures below show how to coax the instrument cluster aft, out of the binnicle. You will only be able to move it about half an inch (1 cm) at a time on either side, so, alternate working from side to side - don't try and hog it all out at once. It helps to get you in the right frame of mind if you first consider that it will cost you $1,000 if you bust the instrument cluster.



















Don't try and pull the instrument cluster all the way out - the cables connecting to the back of it aren't long enough to allow you to do that. Pull the instrument cluster forward until you are able to tilt the top of it aft, giving you access to the cables. The photo below shows when you should stop pulling it aft.

*This is about as far aft as it goes with the cables attached*









Now tilt the top edge of the instrument cluster aft (towards you) until you have access to the two connectors on the back of the instrument cluster.










Reach in and undo the cam latches that hold the connectors in place. They are exactly the same as every other Volkswagen in the world.










This is what it looks like when the connector comes free. Note how the purple cam-latch has rotated counter-clockwise about 90° compared to how it originally looked, before starting to remove the connector. The other connector (the blue one) works exactly the same way.










Now, you can remove the instrument cluster from the vehicle and take it indoors. Have a clean, soft towel available to lay it down on.

*It is surprisingly thin*









*This is where the speaker is located*
_The new speaker is visible in the upper right of the photo._









Start disassembling the cluster by removing the 6 screws around the perimeter of it. These screws cut their own threads into the underlying frame, so be very gentle when you put them back in at the end of the project - don't overtorque them. I think these are Torx 10, but I am not certain. I used a Torx 10 bit and it worked OK.

*Remove the screws*









Now, gently pry the clips free around the edge. There are 8 clips. The white part should pop up about a millimeter when you loosen each clip.










With the instrument cluster facing downwards on a soft towel (it should have been like that all along), lift the white frame (the rear of the cluster) free of the front of the cluster. It will be easy to lift at one end (the end without the speaker) and "apparently" difficult to lift at the other end. Don't worry about it being "apparently" difficult to lift at the speaker end - the friction is caused by the two pins on the circuit board pulling out of the connector to the speaker. You can see details of this in a photo a bit later on.

*Lift the white part (back of the cluster) free from the front of the cluster*









It might be that as you lift the white part free, instead of the white part (the rear cover of the cluster) coming straight up and free of everything else (the circuit board, the dials, the front glass, etc.), the white part stays stuck to the circuit board (this because the speaker connector did not release, because you didn't pull hard enough) and you wind up lifting the white part, the circuit board, and the dial face free of the front glass cover.

This is undesirable, but not the end of the world. The photo below shows what it looks like when this happens. To avoid this, pull more courageously on the end of the white part (the rear cover) to disconnect it from the speaker connector

*This is sort of an undesirable middle step - try to avoid it *









*Once you get the back cover off (the white part off), it will look like this*









*Below, a photo of the old speaker still in place, and the new speaker ready to be installed*









Once you have replaced the speaker, you now put the whole assembly back together. In the photo below, you can see how the two pins on the back of the circuit board engage into the connector on the (new) speaker. This is why you encounter resistance when you try to pull the speaker end of the white cover out of the circuit board, after having removed the screws and loosened the 8 tabs.










If the faceplate (front cover, with the round glass) came off during disassembly, the intermediate step after putting the white rear cover back on but before putting the faceplate back on will look like this. Note that there is a gap between the back cover and the front of the circuit board assembly. That is by design, don't try to squash it closed.










Finally, if the front cover came off during the disassembly process, put it back on. Resist the temptation to touch the dials, or the black face of the instrument panel, or the inside of the glass.










*This is what it looks like when the job is done*









Installing the instrument cluster back in the car is simple, just reverse the procedure for removing it. Some suggestions:

*1)* After you have connected the two big connectors to the instrument panel, start the car and confirm that everything works. That way, if you have to re-seat a connector, you won't have to take the whole thing apart from the beginning.

*2)* Be alert to the position of the two little wiring harnesses that fit onto the switches on either side of the instrument panel. It is easy to forget about them and have one of them disappear behind the instrument cluster. Use some masking tape to hold them in place, out of harms way.

*3) *Don't overtorque fasteners when you are putting everything back together. Generally speaking, finger-tight is sufficient.

*4)* Be gentle and take it slowly when re-fitting the bezels over the switches on either side of the instrument cluster. The snap-fasteners on the bezels are very tiny and break very easily.

The car will generate a whole flock of fault codes as a result of having removed the instrument cluster. Most of these are along the lines of "Control Module in Instrument Panel On Comfort CAN - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent". You can safely disregard them all, and safely clear all of them without further investigation.

Total time for everything - removal, speaker replacement, re-install - about 3 hours.

Regards,

Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

I did a postmortem on the speaker that I took out of my instrument cluster.

The speaker is of fairly simple construction - it has two sides to it, both of which are made of clear plastic, and a small speaker coil inside. In addition to being sealed around the outer perimeter, the front face of the speaker coil is attached to the front plastic covers with a very small amount of adhesive about 50% of the way out from the center of the speaker. In the picture below, you can see a dome in the middle - it is around the outside edge of that dome that the dome (which is, in effect, the speaker 'cone') is glued to the speaker coil below.

It appears to me that the adhesive affixing the center portion of the top plastic cover (which also forms the vibrating surface, the 'cone' of the speaker) has perished - either dried out, or the speaker has vibrated long enough to just fret the adhesive away - and as a result, the speaker coil no longer is affixed to the cone, and therefore does not make any sound when the magnetic assembly vibrates. In other words, it's not an electrical failure, it is a physical failure of the bond between the speaker cone and the speaker magnet.

On my car, the speaker failure was quite sudden - it worked fine one day, then failed in the middle of the next day.

Michael

*The failed speaker*


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Finally, here's a close-up picture of the replacement speaker (the new one).

If you are having trouble finding a vendor who sells this speaker for around $10 (online prices in Europe vary between $4 and $12, plus shipping), Google the speaker part number, which is F/BMS-3432 (skip the last two letters), and you should be able to find discussions in the European Phaeton, Touareg, or Cayenne forums with links to reasonably priced vendors.

It seems that this same speaker is also used in the Golf 5 series of cars, but I am not certain of that.

Michael

*Speaker Part Number* (disregard the 'LF' at the end)


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## n968412L (Apr 23, 2009)

Really really useful write up Michael. Much appreciated. But I hope I never need it!
Regards

M


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## Itzmann (Jan 16, 2006)

Awesome tutorial, Michael. Thanks. Just head and shoulders above the Touareg ones. Goes to show where the quality people are.



On our Touareg, the agony of the old speaker took a year or so. I got the impression from the Touareg forums that sudden death of the speaker is not common.

Our Phaeton's speaker is still going strong.

I was not aware that Cayennes were also losing their binnacle speakers. And here I thought that Cayennes used their own instrumentation? So the Cayenne binnacle is also a Touareg part? It is known that other components such as the Cayenne radio are heavily Porsche-branded ("Porsche PCM"), even if made by an outside contractor such as Blaupunkt, Siemens, or Becker.

It was interesting to see from your extreme disassembly just how much wider than the bezel the LCD screen actually is. Goes to show where the idea for later Phaeton binnacle MFD redesigns came from.


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## remrem (Jan 20, 2008)

Hi Michael,

As you know from my thread from three and a half years ago: Instrument Cluster Backlighting Dim or Failing [TOC] , I had to replace my instrument cluster TWICE! Once for this very broken speaker issue, and once for failed white backlighting ("wash" lighting). Fortunately, both cluster replacements were covered by warranty.

Anyway, I was wondering if while you were devising this ingenious and elegant fix for the speaker problem, might you have formulated a similarly clever approach for fixing the backlighting issue? For those who might have suffered, or will suffer that same failure, it would be great if cluster replacement were no longer the only option.

Best regards,
Ron M.


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## Itzmann (Jan 16, 2006)

Don't mean to hijack the thread but there will be a day when someone's backlight for the MFD in the binnacle fails and again VW's answer will be... get a whole new cluster for $1000.

Apparently this issue is happening to Touaregs more and more (just like the speaker issue manifested there before it came to Phaetons which typically get driven less).

Well, people have found that instead of a whole new cluster, all you need is voltage converter 8 948 411 102 R2 (made by Bosch) or equivalent. This piece is also located inside the cluster, just like the speaker.

The tutorial is here:

http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f...r-broken-mfd-lcd-color-replacement-78946.html


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## debwins (Jun 1, 2002)

*I've Got Sound! Click! Click! Click! Never Sounded So Good!*

Hello Michael,

I just wanted to give a shout out and let you know that after I read your post about the speaker replacement in the instrument cluster. I ran into this problem back in October 2011 (see http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...art-with-list-of-2004-NAR-Phaeton-V8-Concerns )

Anyway thanks to your excellent instructions I switched out the tiny speaker today and "Walah!" I heard blinker click, and bells and chimes for the first time from my Phaeton and I am delighted! Thanks so much! :wave:

Deb


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## jojoinsf1 (Mar 29, 2014)

*one more thing*

Thank you, Michael.
What a brilliant post! I understand that the work was done on a VW12 Phaeton. Have you, or anybody you know, worked on the same problem (chime speaker), but on a fairly early New Beetle (2001)? 
Thank you.
George.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Hi George:

I'm not familiar with the 2001 New Beetle, but there is a forum here on Vortex that is specific to that vehicle, have a look there, you might find some useful information.

Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

PanEuropean said:


> ...A quick search through eBay found several North American vendors who were offering the exact OEM speaker - but for about $85 !!! Changing the search criteria on eBay so as to search vendors worldwide (rather than just in North America, which is the default if you are visiting eBay from North America) found an eBay vendor in Germany who sells the exact same OEM speaker for €9.99 - about $13. Shipping from Germany to my home in Canada is another $13, for a total of $26.
> 
> The eBay listing I purchased from is here: Touareg Turn Signal Chime. That listing was made by an eBay seller by name of relumax_de (relumax _underscore _de). This company has an eBay store, it is here. eBay listings come and go, so, if the above links do not work, here is the website of the company: http://relumax.de/. There's not much information at that website either, so, for future reference, here is the name and address of the vendor:
> 
> ...


As of April 2014, there is a North American vendor who is selling the same part for $20. That vendor is 'MotoLegends', a commercial advertiser on the Club Touareg website. They also sell a 'kit' to replace the speaker for $65. The only difference I can see between the $20 speaker (alone) and the $65 'kit' is that the kit comes with printed instructions (for the Touareg, not the Phaeton), a couple of sound absorbent pads that are needed on the Touareg (but not the Phaeton), and a couple of plastic trim tools. 

My suggestion to Phaeton owners is that if you need to replace the instrument cluster speaker, as outlined above in this discussion, you only order the speaker for $20, not the kit. Details are available at this URL:
http://www.motolegends.us/instrument-cluster-speaker-repair---speaker-only.html.

I don't know anything about this company (MotoLegends), and I am not 'recommending' them - I'm just listing them here as an alternative source of supply in case it is not possible or practical to get the replacement speaker from Herr Schindler in Augsburg.

Michael


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## jgminc (Jan 9, 2010)

*Instrument cluster display went blank*

One morning my instrument cluster display suddenly failed to come on at all. Prior to this it had worked perfectly. My Phaeton has 108,000 miles on the car and is now 10 years old. 

I priced a new cluster but hoped there might be a less expensive alternative. I ruled out a software problem as there had been plenty of time for a bug to occur.

Using this thread, I removed my instrument cluster and brought it to my local TV repair shop for some diagnosis. This may seem strange but this shop can repair most anything with a circuit board in it. They test all the components whether they be a capacitor to an integrated circuit chip. They said they would like to replace both transformers, a regulator of some sort and two eprom chips. 

I suspect only one component completely failed in the display. Given all the components are 10 years old and are inexpensive to replace, it was prudent to replace anything that was not completely up to spec. 

The parts took a couple of weeks to arrive (the chips came from China). While we were waiting for the parts, I replaced the cluster into the vehicle as the AC doesn't work without it.
After several weeks, the parts arrived and were replaced. 

Problem solved.

Total cost: about $270 labor and parts.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi,

Welcome to the forum. Thanks very much for posting that analysis. It is beginning to look as though we all need make friends with the local electronics PCB repair gurus!

Chris


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## compu_85 (Aug 17, 2004)

I installed one of the speakers from MotoLegends in our 04 Touareg this evening. It fit just like the original speaker. 

-J


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## phaetonjohn (Oct 24, 2014)

Is it possible to pull a bulb out from behind the cluster? I want to pull the TPMS bulb. It's annoying

-John


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

It's not a bulb, it's an icon on the MFD. Just pull the TPMS fuse or recode the gateway to remove TPMS.


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## phaetonjohn (Oct 24, 2014)

No, I meant the TPMS light on the speedo. It's up and to the left of the high beam light.
Bruce got the light on the MFD removed, but the light on the speedo won't go out.

-John


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

You sure it's TPMS? I've never seen that one.


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## phaetonjohn (Oct 24, 2014)

invisiblewave said:


> You sure it's TPMS? I've never seen that one.


Yep. It looks like this.










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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

I can't recall if I've seen it before, it's been a long time since I had any TPMS issues.


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## phaetonjohn (Oct 24, 2014)

invisiblewave said:


> I can't recall if I've seen it before, it's been a long time since I had any TPMS issues.


It should still come on when you key on.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Can't check it at the moment since the dealer has been looking at my transmission since last tuesday. Is there a problem with your sensors?


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## phaetonjohn (Oct 24, 2014)

invisiblewave said:


> Can't check it at the moment since the dealer has been looking at my transmission since last tuesday. Is there a problem with your sensors?


Yeah. One of them... Bruce just shut it off for me, and the light in the mfd went out. Now it's just the one in the speedo.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Did he recode controller 19 to remove TPMS altogether?


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## phaetonjohn (Oct 24, 2014)

invisiblewave said:


> Did he recode controller 19 to remove TPMS altogether?


Yeah. We changed it to 000006.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Did you clear the fault codes on it?


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## phaetonjohn (Oct 24, 2014)

invisiblewave said:


> Did you clear the fault codes on it?


Yep. We cleared all faults and no new faults appeared. She's fault free in the TPMS world, but hat light is still on for some reason.

-John


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## zoltan99 (Jul 22, 2013)

Chiming in, want to say that I've never seen that light. My TPMS was disabled when I got my car, I reenabled it and got it working, and not once has a light with that symbol appeared. It was always symbols on the LCD that look like that (or rather, black outlines in yellow circles, or a large, temporary symbol as an incidental alert over the center of the screen.)

When you say it is above and to the left of the high-beam light, you are saying it is in the top of the speedometer on the right?


I've always wondered what the circular lamp above "1/min x 1000" does, but never have seen it light up. I don't know what color it is.

I now have working TPMS, and it has alerted me to several problems in the past when the wheels lost air, and it was always a beep from the cluster and an alert on the lcd screen saying what the problem is, showing the TPMS symbol in either yellow or red depending on the alert level.


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## phaetonjohn (Oct 24, 2014)

zoltan99 said:


> Chiming in, want to say that I've never seen that light. My TPMS was disabled when I got my car, I reenabled it and got it working, and not once has a light with that symbol appeared. It was always symbols on the LCD that look like that (or rather, black outlines in yellow circles, or a large, temporary symbol as an incidental alert over the center of the screen.)
> 
> When you say it is above and to the left of the high-beam light, you are saying it is in the top of the speedometer on the right?
> 
> ...


You're lucky!

It is between the high beam indicator and the auto headlight indicator. If you take a bright flashlight and go around shining it in that area, you WILL see the outline for it. If I look close enough, I can see the indicator lights for the webasto and the trailer signal lights.
I've never seen the light by the 1-min x 1000 come on either. Weird. Ive seen Mercedes with it too.

But the light IS there. The lights on the speedo and the tach go around In a circle. It's between the high beam light and the light that indicates when your lights are in "auto". I'll take a picture when I can.

-John


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## AJL44 (Mar 23, 2015)

Quick question. In the first post it's made clear to make sure to unlock the doors and boot/trunk as you won't be able to do so when the instrument cluster is out. 

Does this mean that you can't unlock/lock the car even by using the key in the locks including the little secret one day on the boot emblem? If I take my instrument cluster out and need to send it for repair I still need to be able to lock and unlock the car as it'll be sitting on my drive. 

Sent from my BBB100-2 using Tapatalk


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## phaetonjohn (Oct 24, 2014)

AJL44 said:


> Quick question. In the first post it's made clear to make sure to unlock the doors and boot/trunk as you won't be able to do so when the instrument cluster is out.
> 
> Does this mean that you can't unlock/lock the car even by using the key in the locks including the little secret one day on the boot emblem? If I take my instrument cluster out and need to send it for repair I still need to be able to lock and unlock the car as it'll be sitting on my drive.
> 
> Sent from my BBB100-2 using Tapatalk


Certainly. Those locks are mechanical.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

phaetonjohn said:


> Certainly. Those locks are mechanical.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


The only door on mine with a mechanical lock is the driver's door. If I want the rest of the doors unlocked for access, I need to unlock them all before disconnecting the batteries. If I want it locked, I have to make sure the doors are all locked before disconnecting batteries. Apparently you have to decide if your Phaeton is going to be unlocked or locked before removing the cluster also.

The trunk (boot) lid and the driver's door are the only ones I can lock or unlock without power. 

-Eric


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## phaetonjohn (Oct 24, 2014)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> The only door on mine with a mechanical lock is the driver's door. If I want the rest of the doors unlocked for access, I need to unlock them all before disconnecting the batteries. If I want it locked, I have to make sure the doors are all locked before disconnecting batteries. Apparently you have to decide if your Phaeton id going to be unlocked or locked before removing the cluster also.
> 
> The trunk (boot) lid and the driver's door are the only ones I can lock or unlock without power.
> 
> -Eric


Every lock is able to be mechanically operated. 

Open the door, and right near the latch is a rubber plug. Take that plug out, and look in the hole. There's a red thingy in there. Take the key, and push on that red thing. Door is locked! Then to unlock, unlock using the cylinder in the driver's door handle, then reach around and pull on all the door handles from the inside. You're in!

When I was doing my keyless start over a week, that's how I locked and unlocked the car. 

-John


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## M. Waser (Dec 31, 2016)

*Pictures?*

Where are all those pictures gone? I need to remove the dashboard on my phaeton. This would be very helpful. Thanks for any help. :wave:
Michael Waser


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

M. Waser said:


> Where are all those pictures gone? I need to remove the dashboard on my phaeton. This would be very helpful. Thanks for any help. :wave:
> Michael Waser


Post picture requests here:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?8759593-Photos-not-visible-in-a-thread/page2


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

The pictures are still there, they're just being blocked by photobucket. There's a plug-in for the browser to circumvent it, but on my computer it only works on Chrome, not on Firefox (even though the plug-in exists).


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hello Michael,

I have edited the Image URLs so that the photos should be available without installing any Photobucket interceptor fixes in your web browsers.

If anyone still has problems please let me know and I will re-host the photos elsewhere.

Good luck with the dash insert removal. At least, I hope that is what you are doing. Removal of the entire dashboard over the full width of the car is a major undertaking. 

Chris


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## n968412L (Apr 23, 2009)

I can confirm that I can see them.

M


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## M. Waser (Dec 31, 2016)

Hey Chris, thank you very much for your help. Now I see the pictures. Perfect. 
Of course, if I am going to remove something then it´s the instrument cluster and not the whole dashboard. (wrong translation ) I´m still trying to figure out where my interruption in the CAN bus could be. I learned the gateway (address 19) is built into the instrument cluster. That´s the one which I hope is the reason for no communication between several systems. My VCDS scan says 01305 - Databus for Infotainment (014 - Defective)
If someone has a good advice for me it´s very welcome.
Michael Waser


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## steveskinr (Oct 31, 2007)

Year's ago Michael suggested that running a CD from VW would fix a number of communication problems. He felt it should have been a mandatory fix in NA as it was elsewhere. 

There might be a TB on it. I think I gave away my CD after using it and then purchased another one from VW. I still need to use it on a car that is coming so I can't offer it to you. 

I forgot the part number and I can't access the CD currently. I did document it here though. It also updated the navigation in a second step. The total rewrite could take a few hours. 

It was a more complex procedure on early 04s.


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## panos21 (Jan 22, 2014)

I have followed exactly the guide and replaced the speaker but i still don't have sound. Any ideas? Could it be the circuit that amplifies the sound to the speaker?


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## steveskinr (Oct 31, 2007)

The CD I was referring to above has the following part number. 3D0919278

Release 136 ZAB/Navigation
SW0223/SW0168


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## MK4Frank (Sep 3, 2011)

*Fantastic instructions by PanEuropean!*

* "Resist the temptation to touch the dials, or the black face of the instrument panel, or the inside of the glass."*

This is my favorite quote of the whole post.


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