# 2011 VW MKVI Brake Upgrade Options - Opinions Needed Please



## HYDE16 (Aug 20, 2010)

These horror stories about using the stock brakes are starting to worry me financially.

I'm heading to Pocono Raceway (PA) in May for my first instructor-led event.
I have the power, tire and wheel upgrades but I was looking into suspension or brakes next before this event. I'm not looking to run my car hard, I'm just going out on the track to learn and have some fun. I'm not trying to get the best times or beat on the car. I'm usually early to lift off the pedal and on the brakes. I’m not heavy on the OEM brakes but when I have to brake heavily, I dislike the unpredictability and squishy feeling of the brake pedal.

I don't have the cash to buy upgraded pads to replace them right away after this event due to damage or excessive ear. I need something that can hold up to this event and provide future use as a daily driver with minimal dust and absolutely no noise. Can anyone help a newbie?

Here are the stats on my 2011 MKVI
-7,000 miles
-75% highway daily driving / 25% town daily driving
-New Continental ExtremContact DWS tires
-Forge Twintake / Twincooler, APR Stage 1, South Bend Clutch Plate

I’ve researched larger brake kits, different rotors, better pads, SS lines and brake fluid. I’m also not sure if certain upgrades will change the OEM brake bias and if that’s an issue. I’m not looking for any increased braking noise or added maintenance issues. I’m looking for a solution to increase brake feel and fade when I want to run my car a littler harder.

Larger brake kits – I’m not convinced that larger than OEM spec rotors would be better for my application due to rotational mass and cost: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1811355
The R conversion kits seem like the way to go if I went with a larger brake kit but the cost is an issue and I’m not sure I need all of that stopping power for my Stage 1 power upgrades as a daily driver.

Pads – This seems like a must, I would look to upgrade all pads on the car, it's a toss up between Stoptech Pads, HPS Street pads, HPS Plus pads, HPS ceramic pads and recently I've gotten a lot of recommendations for Porterfield RS4 pads. I'm looking for no increased noise, lowest brake dust, no requirement of a warm-up period needed for bite and good wet weather performance. Are there pads that can survive this one-time event and last for better than stock braking on a daily basis?

Rotors – So many to choose from; Adam's rotors, Power Slot, etc. Then pattern choices are the next step, slotted only or slotted and drilled. Are these needed if I technically have new rotors and will be using the upgraded pads?

Brake fluid – Motul DOT 4.1 or 5.1 Synthetic Brake Fluid?

SS Lines – I’ve read both good and bad things but I have yet to read an experience where someone installed SS lines without any other brake upgrades. I’m not planning on upgrading the lines unless my upgrade choices really call for it.

Caliper Bushings - Any idea if these are worth it and if they will work? Will they cause any other parts to wear out prematurely?
http://www.tyrolsport.com/index.php?p=product&id=205&parent=64

Again, I'm not looking to push my car hard at this event, I only want to get out for some fun to test my power upgrades, see some other cars and get some photo ops. I'd like to be able to drive away from the event without glazing pads or having to replace them the following month.

Thanks for any advice guys.


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## KG18t (Aug 9, 2006)

Main benefit of larger brakes, unless you're going to more pistons or monoblock calipers, is surface area of the rotors... cooling.

R brakes, eh, that's a lot of weight, better off with the Boxter brakes if you want to spend $$.

HPS pads are good, no real worries about warping etc.

On street tires on track, they should be fine. Stickier tires => need for more brake => more heat => etc etc etc. Stick with street tires on track, spend money in one area... have to consider how that's going to affect everything else.

Rotors: Not familiar with the MkVI options.

Fluid: Sure, that works.

SS Lines: If you're not doing track or other heavy load stuff... don't worry about it.


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## greyhare (Dec 24, 2003)

All I can add is call these guys.

http://www.tyrolsport.com/index.php?p=product&id=205&parent=64

Verify they will fit your car. They should improve the feel.


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## loudgli (Aug 3, 2005)

If you're not looking to change out everything. I highly recommend you look into porterfield R4S pads for your stock calipers. They offer better braking than the stock pads, do not make noise and expell minimal dust. You wont find a huge following like the hawk pads but Ive used them on 2 vw's and another DD and they are fantastic IMO. Do this along with the tyrol bushings listed above. 

I purchase all my pads from 
http://www.lpiracing.com/
They offer the best pricing along with free shipping. 

Ive also pieced together and sold a few of these boxster setups that use your stock rotor. Its a nice mild upgrade that allows most "stockish" wheels and doesn't add unsprung weight to the car. 

You can see whats included in this link. If you search around google. Youll find alot of guys in the UK that run this setup and are very pleased with it.

http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142399


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## HYDE16 (Aug 20, 2010)

bump


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## seroki (Jan 25, 2010)

If your going to be using street tires especially A/S tires your going to be best off putting on steel braided SS lines and race spec fluid. Your stock calipers and rotors should bite just fine, but your going to be worrying about brake fade more than anything, and lines and fluid will help with that the most before a BBK and with that said, the boxter brake kit with larger cross drilled rotors will be better than the BBK's that most places will sell for significantly less $$$. 

Edit: 
Forgot about the pads and other stuff.... 
For race applications i like the HPS High Performance Race Compound but those squeel like no other under normal use. If your looking for daily mods that will increase life, look toward the HPS High performance Ceramic pads, they have a slight warm up period but thats pretty much under really cold conditions if your driving to the track then that warm up period would be sufficient as long as the car wont be sitting for a few hours before you go out. Good braking with extended life of rotor and pads. Ive gotten 120k miles out of ceramic pads with cross drilled rotors before. 

You would really only notice a difference with the stiffening kit if you were to go BBK/Porsche upgrade route.


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## HYDE16 (Aug 20, 2010)

My car already comes with DOT 4 fluid, what specific fluid should I upgrade to?


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## seroki (Jan 25, 2010)

HYDE16 said:


> My car already comes with DOT 4 fluid, what specific fluid should I upgrade to?


 Motul makes some decent albeit expensive stuff with their RBF600. But that would be for a more strenuous brake ensemble. ATE superblue is reasonably priced and also pretty resiliant to boiling. 

If your going to make it a regular thing you might also want to consider picking up some Speedbleeders brake system bleeder nipples. Makes bleeding the system a one man job that can be done in a few minutes after a day at the track, just dont forget to top off the system with more brake fluid after bleeding.


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## HYDE16 (Aug 20, 2010)

ATE makes DOT 4 only right? I already have DOT 4, any reason to switch?


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## seroki (Jan 25, 2010)

HYDE16 said:


> ATE makes DOT 4 only right? I already have DOT 4, any reason to switch?


 DOT 4 just tells you that it's glycol based. If you switch to DOT 5 thats a silicon based system and you must switch out everything in the system, MC, SC, CC, ABS C, Lines, calipers... everything that was touched with glycol based stuff. 

There are different grades with different types of glycol that are more resistant to boiling and moisture, the ATE is DOT4(glycol) but it contains stuff that raises the boiling point of the fluid meaning it had more leway as far as creating airbubble and causing fade. Just because something says its DOT4 doesn't mean its the same as another brand. DOT4 is a standard and it just basically means its glycol based. Typically euro cars use DOT 4 and US/japanese use DOT3, no real difference with the core of the fluid just different standards, weight and additives and amount of glycol. 

You will want to completely flush the system with new stuff, there are several DIY's just use the forum search "diy brakes" 

Nice thing about a DOT 5 system is that its pretty much lifetime as long as there are no repairs or leaks in the system as it never needs to be flushed. 

Main difference in DOT4 brake fluids is glycol mixtures, which can raise boiling points a couple of degrees. 

Good info on DOT 4 stuff http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DOT_4


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## HYDE16 (Aug 20, 2010)

Excellent, thank you.


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## greyhare (Dec 24, 2003)

seroki said:


> Nice thing about a DOT 5 system is that its pretty much lifetime as long as there are no repairs or leaks in the system as it never needs to be flushed.


 DOT5 silicone fluid is more compressible and will give a spongy peddle. The brake system is vented at the MC DOT5 does not absorb water so any moisture that gets in the system sinks to the calipers. 

Water in the calipers boils at a very low temperature and corrodes the internals. 

DOT5 must be flushed like anything else. 

Do not use DOT5. Use DOT4 or DOT5.1 glycol based fluid. Fresh OEM or better DOT4 will be fine for all but the most extreme track use.


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## seroki (Jan 25, 2010)

greyhare said:


> DOT5 silicone fluid is more compressible and will give a spongy peddle. The brake system is vented at the MC DOT5 does not absorb water so any moisture that gets in the system sinks to the calipers.
> 
> Water in the calipers boils at a very low temperature and corrodes the internals.
> 
> ...


 Never used DOT5, thanks for correcting


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## HYDE16 (Aug 20, 2010)

Even after I upgraded the pads and brake fluid they stock brakes still sucked, ended up going with the Forge Motorsport Front Brake Kit and SS lines on my 2011 GTI. Looking forward to getting out for the next HPDE event to test this kit out.

*-HYDE16 Reviews Forge Motorsport Front Brake Kit (MK5 & MK6 330mm Kit)-*


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## [email protected] (Apr 18, 2013)

We would like to announce that we have recently launched our
*GROUP BUY: TyrolSport Master Brake Cylinder Bracket Group Buy and 10% Off Sale*


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## MacroxVW (Apr 20, 2017)

*Big brake upgrade*

Hi, I have a question about the big brake upgrade from stock to a 17z brembo fronts


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