# 2013 Volkswagen Passat Slam Series install



## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

Nothing sucks more than sitting here with an Airlift kit and no car to put it on. I got into a minor fender bender a few weeks ago and still don't have my car back. Well, I did get my car back about a week ago but there were still a few issues so I had to send it back to the shop. The car should be done tomorrow, so I figured I'd get everything organized and work on what I could for the time being. 










I'm going to be using some black OZ wheels that I had on a Jetta I sold. I'm not a fan of black wheels on this car so I'm going to get them painted gunmetal gray and match the air tank to the wheels. 










Today I worked on the rear bags. I got the slam series rear shocks so I had to cut the brackets for the rear bags. Airlift was nice enough to mark where I needed to cut. I just used a miter saw to cut the majority of the metal off. Then I used a grinder to clean everything up. I painted what I cut to try and combat any future rust. 


















I also assembled what I could of the rear bags.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Great job keeping productive while waiting your car. If I can recommend, ensure you have all of the tools to remove your OEM suspension, front axle bolt is either a hex bolt or a 12 point bolt (mine was 12 point). Removing the axles bolt and pushing the drive shaft out makes the removal of the front struts much easier. Strut spreader tool and 16mm open end offset wrench for rear upper shock mount removal (this is not explained in the installation manual at all).



I was lucky enough to have the correct tools at 2:00 am in the morning when I did mine. An air impact can also be used to remove that nut without holding it back. Good lick with your install and enjoy your air ride (love mine!)


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

Thanks for the info. I hope I have the tools...










You are right though. The instructions for the kit don't get into detail with the factory items that need to be removed and reinstalled. There are a few spotty areas in the instruction, but they are fairly thorough for the most part. 

It's a pretty solid kit. The parts appear to be quality built. The only issues I see right now is that some of the treads on the tank needed to be cleaned up. I was also missing a couple lock washers. It's not a huge problem, but it's something I have to deal with. 

The instructions say to use thread tape or seal for the fittings, but all of the PTC fittings appear to have thread seal on them. Would it be necessary to at tape on top of this.










I was back and forth on how I wanted to mount everything in the trunk. At first, I wanted to do something fancy and original. The more I thought about it the more I leaned towards a subtle setup. I really like how clean this looks. 










Airlift states that the manifold needs to be mounted higher than the tank. Either most people miss this or they just don't care. I don't know how big of an issue this is with a water trap. I'll most likely mount it high just to be safe.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Wow nice toolbox I'm guessing tool won't be an issue. LOL There are so many different ways to do the trunk setup, comes down to a matter of what works for you! No need to tape over the pipe sealant.


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## [email protected] (Jan 25, 2008)

[/QUOTE]
Airlift states that the manifold needs to be mounted higher than the tank. Either most people miss this or they just don't care. I don't know how big of an issue this is with a water trap. I'll most likely mount it high just to be safe.[/QUOTE]

That is because most people do not read the manual! :laugh: Let me know if I can help at all.


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

Airlift states that the manifold needs to be mounted higher than the tank. Either most people miss this or they just don't care. I don't know how big of an issue this is with a water trap. I'll most likely mount it high just to be safe.[/QUOTE]

That is because most people do not read the manual! :laugh: Let me know if I can help at all.[/QUOTE]

I got my car back today and started messing with the wires and hoses. I'm trying to figure out the best way to run them. 

For those of you who have never messed with interior trim, it's pretty straight forward. Most of it just snaps into place. All it takes is a little tugging and it will come loose. There was a couple screws under the rear seat but that's it for this area. 


























I spent a bunch of time were the wires and hoses go behind the rear seats into the trunk. Running wires alone aren't really an issue. My worry is the bend radius of the air hoses. There is a hump as they transition into the trunk. I just wanted to ensure that the hoses weren't stressed in any way. 










I hope this works.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Great job! You've taken the exact route that I took in my install. The air line will be fine the way you've ran them, I ended up tywrapping them in that area as well . You'll need to trim the underside of the styrofoam insert to get the insert to seat properly, that if you're putting it back in. Are you using bulkheads thru the trunk for the rear air lines? I used four in my trunk setup.


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

northendroid said:


> Great job! You've taken the exact route that I took in my install. The air line will be fine the way you've ran them, I ended up tywrapping them in that area as well . You'll need to trim the underside of the styrofoam insert to get the insert to seat properly, that if you're putting it back in. Are you using bulkheads thru the trunk for the rear air lines? I used four in my trunk setup.


I did get bulkheads but they are unions. Where did you find 90 degree bulkheads? I also got PTC to NPT bulkheads for the front. I'm kind of winging it at this point. 

As I finished torquing the brackets to the rear bags I realized that I may have to remove them to orient the fitting properly. Once I screw the bag in it may not line up.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

There's no 90 deg bulkhead it's this fitting installed into the PTC bulkhead. 



If I can recall you need to turn the fitting around (180 deg.), the bag needs to be installed with the fitting towards the rotor side but the fitting inlet away from the rotor. With the fitting in that orientation I believe that it will hit the top of the transverlink. Ran the air line inside the transverlink with some wire loom to protect the air line, drill a hole in the side of the transverlink to secure the airline inside the transverlink with a P clamp. Just a heads up with the rear bag bracket cut you need to use the shorter bolt supplied in the kit (as indicated in the manual) to mount the bag to the transverlink. The guy I purchased my kit from used the wrong bolts (he had to purchase two new bags) and pushed in the aluminum at the end of the threads into the inside of the bag, as in the picture below:



Should look like this:


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

Thanks for the info. 

I got the tires dismounted last night. I'll be having a local guy paint the wheels and the tank. I'm going with a graphite gray


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

Today, I got the hoses and wires ran the whole length of the car. I went through where the clutch would be if I had one. It's definitely the easiest route if you have DSG. 










































I won't be installing the bags for a few days so I tucked the hoses to the side for now.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Awesome work :thumbup: You'll need to pull the red 16 gauge wire back into the cabin, it needs to be tied into ignition power. Did you know that you can replace the cloth battery cover with a plastic one? The MK5 Jetta battery snaps right into the existing battery base. Ordered mine on eBay was something like 29.00(perfect fit), dealership wanted 135.00. Love the colour you choose for your wheels and tank.


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

northendroid said:


> Awesome work :thumbup: You'll need to pull the red 16 gauge wire back into the cabin, it needs to be tied into ignition power. Did you know that you can replace the cloth battery cover with a plastic one? The MK5 Jetta battery snaps right into the existing battery base. Ordered mine on eBay was something like 29.00(perfect fit), dealership wanted 135.00. Love the colour you choose for your wheels and tank.


Thanks. 

There are several ignition sources under the hood to tap into. I'll let you know when I tap into one. 

I didn't think about getting a mk5 batt cover. It makes sense though. VW hasn't changed the battery tray since 2006


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

bahrns said:


> Thanks.
> 
> There are several ignition sources under the hood to tap into. I'll let you know when I tap into one.
> 
> I didn't think about getting a mk5 batt cover. It makes sense though. VW hasn't changed the battery tray since 2006


Yes please let me know where you tie it into, I don't like where mine connected.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Front air line routing in the wheel wells from my build:


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

I'm working on the box where the tank compressor and controller will be mounted. As of now, the plan is to make a second box similar to the one I just made. It will go in the rear half of the trunk and it will be removable. This way I can access the spare if I need to. The box is in its rough stages right now. I think I am going to stain the wood. I thought about carpet or paint but I think staining it will look cool. I can always do the others later if I don't like it. 










The tank is getting painted so I had to use the box it came in to arrange everything. 




























The finish will look a lot different. This is merely the "rough draft"


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

Well everything inside the car is basically done. I ran the controller to the storage bin left of the steering wheel and reinstalled all of the trim. 










I drilled a 1/2" hole and installed a grommet. Ran the wires through and down to the harness. 





































I had to cut a little off of a piece of trim because of how I ran the wires.


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

The guy painting my wheels sent a picture of them. A few coats of clear and they will be done!










The pictures he sent aren't the greatest but they give you an idea.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Wheel look awesome love the colour, air tank is the same colour right?


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

northendroid said:


> Wheel look awesome love the colour, air tank is the same colour right?


Yup. The guy painting the mainly does hydrographics. I talked to him today about dipping the wood I am using to mount everything on. I'm tempted to dip it in a carbon print or something.



















I rough sanded everything today.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

I think hydrodipping it in carbon fiber print would look cool. I see you've changed the ECU mount from an angled base to straight? Personally prefer the first mount but hey not my project. LOL You planning on doing hard lines on the top side of the platform?


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

Thought about hardlines but I decided I'm going to stick with the nylon/plastic lines. 

So it's not completely clear what the orientation of the struts should be. The only real point of reference is where the airline goes into the bottom of the bag. They don't have a tab or sway bar mount like the performance series or stock. The manual doesn't specify either.


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## [email protected] (Jan 25, 2008)

Orientation really doesn't matter. Personally I would try to put the air port towards the motor of the vehicle.


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> Orientation really doesn't matter. Personally I would try to put the air port towards the motor of the vehicle.


Thanks man. That's kind of what I've settled on. 

I got these bulkheads to run the front breaded line to. I think I finally figured out where I'm going to run them. 










The drains for the cowl run right next to the strut towers. There is a flat spot right next to them that should make a great spot for the bulkhead fittings 


















So for now I clipped the lines and ran them through an existing grommet into the cowl. I "capped" them with 90 degree PTC. I may put the 90s just before the grommet instead of after but I'll figure that out when I have a little more time.


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

I spent a little more time running the front air lines into the cowl. The drivers side is done and ready for the strut and breaded line. 





































I added some heat shrink around the hose in areas I felt may rub. Just a little feel good protection. 










VW installed these studs that are not used. They work great for clamps, but I didn't have a nut on hand to fit. I'm using a makeshift nut for now until I can get the right ones.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

In the first and second picture were the tubing goes into the tray, is that an existing grommet that you've used? Would there be enough lip there to use a bulkheads instead of the grommet? I like the routing you've taken and would be looking at modifying my setup for the front bags in the spring.


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

northendroid said:


> In the first and second picture were the tubing goes into the tray, is that an existing grommet that you've used? Would there be enough lip there to use a bulkheads instead of the grommet? I like the routing you've taken and would be looking at modifying my setup for the front bags in the spring.


Yes that is existing grommet where the wires for the wipers run. I don't know why I didn't think of running them through bulkheads. There would be plenty of space to do so. I think I'm going to that route instead of through the grommet. 

I finally got my wheels and tank back. I'm really happy with the color!


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

bahrns said:


> Yes that is existing grommet where the wires for the wipers run. I don't know why I didn't think of running them through bulkheads. There would be plenty of space to do so. I think I'm going to that route instead of through the grommet.
> 
> I finally got my wheels and tank back. I'm really happy with the color!


Thanks for the info, wheels and tank look awesome


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

I'm getting everything hooked up to the tank and manifold. The sides of the manifold have plugged holes marked T and C. Does anyone know if I can run my tank line to the one marked T? I imagine I would have to plug the PTC hole marked T.


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

I tried to finish up running the front line this morning. I want to play around with the clamps a little more but this is essentially what it will look like in the end. One thing I'm not happy with is how the "blanket" on the firewall crumbled as I cut it. I think it looks like crap so I'll have to come up with an idea to make it look better. 

Pictures kind of suck because of the sun.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Works out nicely with the bulkheads :thumbup: OEM studs secure lines well also!


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

This weekend has been a little frustrating when it comes to this project. Yesterday I tried a blue colored stain on the wood. It didn't turn out anywhere near what I had hoped. After messing with it for a while, I decided to go ahead and wrap it in fabric. All in all it didn't turn out THAT bad. One of the issues was that the spray on adhesive was clumping up at the nozzle and drip on the fabric. This created random spots all over the fabric. You have to look close to see them but they are noticeable. The other issue was that the V2 module mount was really difficult to wrap. I'll most likely change it in the future.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

bahrns said:


> This weekend has been a little frustrating when it comes to this project. Yesterday I tried a blue colored stain on the wood. It didn't turn out anywhere near what I had hoped. After messing with it for a while, I decided to go ahead and wrap it in fabric. All in all it didn't turn out THAT bad. One of the issues was that the spray on adhesive was clumping up at the nozzle and drip on the fabric. This created random spots all over the fabric. You have to look close to see them but they are noticeable. The other issue was that the V2 module mount was really difficult to wrap. I'll most likely change it in the future.


Looks good! You have a fitting connected to the side port of the V2 what are your plans for that?


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

bahrns said:


>





















I don't know why I didn't see it before but the mount for the module is hitting the side of the trunk where it curves out. I'm going to make a new mount and relocated it behind the tank. 

I also pressurized the tank to 90psi to check for leaks. It's definitely worth doing before putting everything in the car.


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

I spent probably 3 hours today messing with the wiring at the fuse box. If I wired it how Airlift says to, I would have been done in 20-30 minutes. My goal was to make everything look as factory as possible. 

I ended up splicing into fuse SB9. It's the control side of the fuel pump rely and a few other things. To do so, I removed fuse panel B (under hood fuse panel) and spliced into the black and yellow wire coming out of fuse 9


























After that, I ran the power wire under the fuse panel and attached the ring post to battery power. I attached the Airlift fuse holder and tucked it under the fuse panel. 


































The ground was attached to the battery ground stud. I hooked up the pump and module and ran it up to pressure. Everything appeared to operate normally, but I need to play with it more. My goal is to have everything together by Christmas.


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

There is no need to remove the ECU but since I was in the area I removed the "anti-theft" bracket holding in place. It will make things easier for me when I tune it in the near future.


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)




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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Car look great! I like the way the leader hose goes directly into the bulkhead.


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

northendroid said:


> Car look great! I like the way the leader hose goes directly into the bulkhead.


Thanks. It worked out really well. I had to take the Left front bulkhead apart and reseal it the other day. There was a leak in the connection that leak out all of the air overnight. 

When I first drove it I heard some rubbing on what I thought was the fender liner. I adjusted the ride height and the noise eventually went away. Yesterday I went to install the new wheels and tires I found this...


















Luckily, the damage is only cosmetic. I had to "overnight parts from Japan" (wheel spacers from ECS Tuning). I ordered 3mm spacers which should be enough...I hope. I thought the new wheels would fit fine because of the difference in offset from stock. This wasn't the case since the wheels are a little wider.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

I ran into the same issue when I did mine. Finish the install at 2:00 am using my brother inlaw two post hoist so had to call my wife to come pick me up :facepalm: I didn't make it to the end of the driveway I could smell burnt rubber. Next day I brought the Bentley wheels that I had purchased my stock offset was 48 and the Bentleys are 41 but 1" wider no rub issues with those wheels. I put the stock wheels back on the car to store it for the winter and had to install 12mm spacer which clears the strut and brings the wheel flush with the fender. I like your wheel choice looks good on the car nice job!

12mm spacers





If I can make a suggestion if you add a #4 NPT hydraulic swivel adapter to the bulkhead you'll be able to break away the leader hose without taking the bulkhead apart. Available at any hydraulic shop.

#4 NPT swivle adapter


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

northendroid said:


> I ran into the same issue when I did mine. Finish the install at 2:00 am using my brother inlaw two post hoist so had to call my wife to come pick me up :facepalm: I didn't make it to the end of the driveway I could smell burnt rubber. Next day I brought the Bentley wheels that I had purchased my stock offset was 48 and the Bentleys are 41 but 1" wider no rub issues with those wheels. I put the stock wheels back on the car to store it for the winter and had to install 12mm spacer which clears the strut and brings the wheel flush with the fender. I like your wheel choice looks good on the car nice job!
> 
> 12mm spacers
> 
> ...


I wish the leader lines had swivels on them. I actually had plans to getting swivels at some point in the future. Turning the wheel lock to lock puts a little twist on the hose. Not a huge deal but it bugs me. Swivel fittings would help prevent the hose getting bent out of shape. 

I heard a little noise that when away after about 100 yards of driving. Like I said, I thought it was the tires rubbing on the fender liner. Coincidentally, the noise went away after adjusting ride height so I didn't think much of it. I believe my stock wheels are ET51 and the OZ wheels are ET48. They are about a 1/2" wider than stock, putting the back side of the tire a fraction of an inch closer to the strut. I didn't get out of my driveway with them on. 

The spacers arrived yesterday and 3mm was all I needed. They not only eliminated the tire rub on the strut, but also lessened the rubbing on the fender liner when I turn the wheel all the way to the left or right. 

I'm just glad the damage was only cosmetic. I should have known better and checked the fitment out in that area. I can tell you that it will never happen again. 


















































It sits lower since I took these pictures. I'll post some more later.


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

As I was finishing up the mount for the tank and everything I got a little frustrated with some things and rushed the last little bit. 

I'm going to start a new one and take my time with it. One thing I want to do is clean up the wiring and install connectors on the mount so I can easily remove the whole assembly if I need to. I'll post updates when I start that


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

It feels like summer here in Charleston, SC. 80 degrees and cruising with the windows down. 




























I'm loving $1.69 a gallon for diesel!


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

I am in the process of making a new base to mount everything on. 


















There is a protective film over the acrylic right now. I'll obviously remove all of that when I am done.


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

Last night I finished coating the base with polyurethane. I laid a small piece of acrylic over it to give me an idea of how it's going to look. I'm really happy with it. 




























Since its going to be see through I need to figure out a clean way to run everything. I would like to cut the harness where it comes into the trunk and install a connector or two. That way I can take out the whole assembly if need be. I just need to locate connectors that will work.


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

Does anyone know if the PTC fittings on the front of the manifold can be removed to accept a different type of fitting?


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## [email protected] (Jan 25, 2008)

bahrns said:


> Does anyone know if the PTC fittings on the front of the manifold can be removed to accept a different type of fitting?


No they cannot. The fittings are pressed in and cannot be removed.


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## AndroidGuy (Sep 24, 2014)

I like how your ride looks!
How is the ride comfort compared to stock?

I have a set of brand new h&r coilovers and contemplating on just putting bags. 

I got Solo-Werks now and they suck because the ride quality is too tight. 

Let us know on the ride quality, also where is a good place to purchase bags...i know they are the slam series.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

TorqTube said:


> I like how your ride looks!
> How is the ride comfort compared to stock?
> 
> I have a set of brand new h&r coilovers and contemplating on just putting bags.
> ...


If your looking for air ride closer to stock I'd suggest the performance series both front and rear have damping adjustments so you can dial it. 30 clicks of adjustments on both front and rear. Got mine setup pretty soft not quite stock but as close as an air ride can get. BagRiders is a excellent site for bags.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

bahrns said:


> Last night I finished coating the base with polyurethane. I laid a small piece of acrylic over it to give me an idea of how it's going to look. I'm really happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Any progress on your new setup?


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## AndroidGuy (Sep 24, 2014)

northendroid said:


> If your looking for air ride closer to stock I'd suggest the performance series both front and rear have damping adjustments so you can dial it. 30 clicks of adjustments on both front and rear. Got mine setup pretty soft not quite stock but as close as an air ride can get. BagRiders is a excellent site for bags.


Yes thank you! I actually was talking to Christof about it. 

I have brand new h&r coils ss kit. Never installed them. 

But i am thinking about bagging the car. But like to have performance because i am looking to upgrade my turbo and what not. And the same time have a smooth ride when my girls are in my car. 

Can you adjust dampening manually or electronically.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

TorqTube said:


> Yes thank you! I actually was talking to Christof about it.
> 
> I have brand new h&r coils ss kit. Never installed them.
> 
> ...


It's done manually front struts is a small hex like tool with a knob that you insert on the top of the strut to adjust, the rear has the adjuster built into the shock.


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## AndroidGuy (Sep 24, 2014)

northendroid said:


> It's done manually front struts is a small hex like tool with a knob that you insert on the top of the strut to adjust, the rear has the adjuster built into the shock.


What is a good kit to get, full kit? 

Any maintenance in the winter?


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

TorqTube said:


> What is a good kit to get, full kit?
> 
> Any maintenance in the winter?


I like my AirLift Performance kit with autopilot air management, water traps maintenance summer or winter is a must and adding air brake antifreeze to your system prior to cold weather. I've been lucky enough to be able to store me car for the winter.


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## AndroidGuy (Sep 24, 2014)

northendroid said:


> I like my AirLift Performance kit with autopilot air management, water traps maintenance summer or winter is a must and adding air brake antifreeze to your system prior to cold weather. I've been lucky enough to be able to store me car for the winter.


Store it as not use it in the winter?

And summertime it has a water trap..

Thanks i really appreciate your help. The sad part is im not a mechanical kind of guy. Well im mechanical inclined but not a mechanic, i would say. 

I'm sure i can install shocks on my car but thats the extent of it.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

TorqTube said:


> Store it as not use it in the winter?
> 
> And summertime it has a water trap..
> 
> ...


Yes as in storage for the winter. Water traps are used to keep water out the air management manifold. I have two install on each side of the air tank since a have two compressors in my setup.Its the two chromed cylinder like that the hose from the compressor is going into.


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## AndroidGuy (Sep 24, 2014)

What system do u recommend for my application. As i like performance and comfortable at the same time. 

I never road in car with airbags. Except for the minitrucks. But it was not anything crazy, still bouncy.


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

Sorry I have been out of the loop. I've been really busy with family and a nonprofit organization I'm trying to get started. It's called Mechanics Serving Heroes and our mission is to provide low-income veterans and their families with automotive service and repairs at no cost. 

Check it out if you're interested 

mechanicsservingheroes.org[url]


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

TorqTube said:


> What system do u recommend for my application. As i like performance and comfortable at the same time.
> 
> I never road in car with airbags. Except for the minitrucks. But it was not anything crazy, still bouncy.


Initially I thought the ride felt like an okay set of coilovers. I was also super paranoid about things hitting and rubbing. I had the air pressure around 70-75 in the front and 55-60 in the back. After about a week I felt more comfortable and lowered the pressures. After about two weeks I could feel that everything settled and the bags seemed to loosen up. Now, I would argue that it rides really close to stock if not the same. If I hit a huge bump or dip on the highway it's definitely more amplified but there is no way around that. Out of all the lowered cars I've owned, this rides the best hand down. As long as you keep the pressures below 60 you will be good to go. I've noticed that Ride quality starts to suffer above 60-65 in the front and 50-55 in the rear


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

TorqTube said:


> Store it as not use it in the winter?
> 
> And summertime it has a water trap..
> 
> ...


Mine is a daily driver that I drive year round. I do live in SC but I would still drive it if I lived north. Tractor trailers have air brakes and drive in sub freezing temps all of the time. Just drain the tank and traps and you will be fine.


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## AndroidGuy (Sep 24, 2014)

bahrns said:


> Initially I thought the ride felt like an okay set of coilovers. I was also super paranoid about things hitting and rubbing. I had the air pressure around 70-75 in the front and 55-60 in the back. After about a week I felt more comfortable and lowered the pressures. After about two weeks I could feel that everything settled and the bags seemed to loosen up. Now, I would argue that it rides really close to stock if not the same. If I hit a huge bump or dip on the highway it's definitely more amplified but there is no way around that. Out of all the lowered cars I've owned, this rides the best hand down. As long as you keep the pressures below 60 you will be good to go. I've noticed that Ride quality starts to suffer above 60-65 in the front and 50-55 in the rear


I would say coilovers are more tuned to the roads. Being they are designed for street used. 

Airbags would be more bouncy compared to coilovers. Just my opinion. Only because i believe coilovers are tuned for street or racing. Bags are more show, but depending on the setup you purchase. 

I could be wrong, someone will chime in i am sure. One thing i hate is hitting a dip on the highway doing 90 mph and feeling ur going to fly off the seats - Solo-Werks anyway.


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## AndroidGuy (Sep 24, 2014)

bahrns said:


> Mine is a daily driver that I drive year round. I do live in SC but I would still drive it if I lived north. Tractor trailers have air brakes and drive in sub freezing temps all of the time. Just drain the tank and traps and you will be fine.


Tractor trailers have a totally different design than cars.


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

northendroid said:


> Any progress on your new setup?


Other than chasing a few small leaks not really. I had some some trouble with the 90 degree PTC at the bulkhead behind the battery. There ended up being some small scratches on the tube that went into it. I cut it back about 1/4" and it seems good now. 

I kind of slowed down after getting frustrated with some SS hardline I ordered off of Amazon. I had everything planned out but when I got the hardline the PTC fittings wouldn't grab the lines. I also wanted to use a single bulkhead connector on the backside of the mount. After countless hours of searching for something I gave up. The connectors were either ugly or needed a special $300 tool to crimp wires and install pins. 

Now I'm caught up building a damn kitchen table that my wife has been wanting. 

I'll post as I move forward.


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

TorqTube said:


> I would say coilovers are more tuned to the roads. Being they are designed for street used.
> 
> Airbags would be more bouncy compared to coilovers. Just my opinion. Only because i believe coilovers are tuned for street or racing. Bags are more show, but depending on the setup you purchase.
> 
> I could be wrong, someone will chime in i am sure. One thing i hate is hitting a dip on the highway doing 90 mph and feeling ur going to fly off the seats - Solo-Werks anyway.


Many Cadillacs, VW Touareg, Audi Q7, etc. have air ride for its ride quality. I've driven some cars with coilovers that I absolutely couldn't stand. My last car was a GLI with ST coils and it didn't ride as good as this. There are sooooo many factors to a suspension setup. It would be ignorant to say that coilovers always ride better than bags or vise versa. There are coilovers designed for nothing other than slamming your car and there are some designed for aggressive track. It's all on how you set it up. 

You asked how it rides and I told you. If your not going to believe what I'm saying then why even ask.


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## AndroidGuy (Sep 24, 2014)

Just my thoughts. Bahrns, i will do more research. Bags are alot more maintenance involved i would say.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

bahrns said:


> Other than chasing a few small leaks not really. I had some some trouble with the 90 degree PTC at the bulkhead behind the battery. There ended up being some small scratches on the tube that went into it. I cut it back about 1/4" and it seems good now.
> 
> I kind of slowed down after getting frustrated with some SS hardline I ordered off of Amazon. I had everything planned out but when I got the hardline the PTC fittings wouldn't grab the lines. I also wanted to use a single bulkhead connector on the backside of the mount. After countless hours of searching for something I gave up. The connectors were either ugly or needed a special $300 tool to crimp wires and install pins.
> 
> ...


I had the same issue with those 90 Deg. elbows also and ended up with the same solution you did. As for the S.S. lines with PTC your right the PTC fitting will not grab into the S.S. because of it's harden metal. I ran into that issue on my build as well but the solution for my setup was I came across a longer bulkhead made by Parker. I was able to eliminate the leakage.



Got to keep the wife happy! We all know how miserable life can be if she's not :laugh:


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

northendroid said:


> I had the same issue with those 90 Deg. elbows also and ended up with the same solution you did. As for the S.S. lines with PTC your right the PTC fitting will not grab into the S.S. because of it's harden metal. I ran into that issue on my build as well but the solution for my setup was I came across a longer bulkhead made by Parker. I was able to eliminate the leakage.
> 
> 
> 
> Got to keep the wife happy! We all know how miserable life can be if she's not :laugh:


You didn't have issues with the hardlines in the manifold?


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

No leaks when I replaced the bulkheads but I believe it's because the hardlines are at 90 degrees (45 deg @ manifold, 45 degree @ bulkheads) The longer bulkhead prevent the hardline from popping out.


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

Over this past week I've found some time to work on a new trunk setup. I've gone full circle and gone in the direction I originally wanted to. 


















It's all solid oak stained with a color called gunstock. The mount in the middle is for the manifold and the tank will go behind/under it. In the picture below I outlined an area in red. I'm going to make a second half out of the same wood that will fill the rest of the trunk. This half will be removable to allow access to the spare. 










I'm meeting up with a guy tomorrow to get my fenders rolled. I'm having an issue with rubbing in the front and rolling them should take care of it... I hope.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Looks awesome! Looking forward to seeing the finished product.You planning on used hardlines still? Copper or Aluminum?


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

northendroid said:


> Looks awesome! Looking forward to seeing the finished product.You planning on used hardlines still? Copper or Aluminum?


Honestly, I don't know yet.


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

This picture was Sunday night. I had to "rig" it up so I could get to work in the morning. I'm not really sure what type of lines or how I'm going to run them yet. 









I framed up the second half that will allow me access to the spare. 










More to come...


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Got to say that your wood working skills are exceptional!


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

northendroid said:


> Got to say that your wood working skills are exceptional!


Thanks. I do alright with the tools I have. The great thing about wood work is that it's very forgiving. Most imperfections will be fixed or unnoticeable with finish work. It doesn't usually involve too much headache.


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

I love working with solid wood and oak is definitely my favorite, my entire bedroom set is hand crafted from it :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
The only criticism i'd have to have is that the VW sticker actually looks out of place on such a clean set up you have going on, a simple plain tank might be more effective in showcasing your talent you have with the wood

EDIT: Also can you get your spare out with the bulkheads going out the side of the wall like that? It almost seems that you would have to disconnect the lines to pull the tire which would suck


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

MechEngg said:


> I love working with solid wood and oak is definitely my favorite, my entire bedroom set is hand crafted from it :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
> The only criticism i'd have to have is that the VW sticker actually looks out of place on such a clean set up you have going on, a simple plain tank might be more effective in showcasing your talent you have with the wood
> 
> EDIT: Also can you get your spare out with the bulkheads going out the side of the wall like that? It almost seems that you would have to disconnect the lines to pull the tire which would suck


I actually agree with you on the VW sticker. Unfortunately it was put on before the clear coat so removing it means repainting the tank. I may pull it off and get the tank powder coated at some point, but I'm stuck with it for now. 

As for the spare, it comes out fine. I can't lift it out flat. I have to tilt it slightly but it's not difficult.


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

I did a side by side comparison last night of the lines to figure out what I liked the best. I love the SS line. The only downside is that I will have to transition to a nylon line right before the manifold. I don't think it looks bad and it would look much better if I used a SS compression fitting in place of the brass one. 



















I also pulled the sticker off. I saw it was pealing up in one area so I just pulled it all of the way off. I'm going see of the guy who painted it will respray because of this.


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Ever thought about doing aluminum hardlines instead of stainless? The stainless teeth on the PTC connections will grab the aluminum way better, and you can install a bolt down tubing clamp which could hold all 6 tubes on the front of the piece of wood, preventing accidental blowouts if the teeth were to ever let go. That way you could go directly to the manifold. 

I would go for a multiple tubing version of this in your tubing diameter:


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

MechEngg said:


> Ever thought about doing aluminum hardlines instead of stainless? The stainless teeth on the PTC connections will grab the aluminum way better, and you can install a bolt down tubing clamp which could hold all 6 tubes on the front of the piece of wood, preventing accidental blowouts if the teeth were to ever let go. That way you could go directly to the manifold.
> 
> I would go for a multiple tubing version of this in your tubing diameter:


I'm bouncing back and forth between copper and aluminum now. As much as I like the stainless, I don't want to mess with the extra fittings and the cost of the stainless fittings. The copper and aluminum look equally as good in my opinion, but they have a completely different look/feel. 

Thanks for the tip on the clamps. My plan is to run the lines down the front of the mount and run all but the tank line into bulkhead fittings. I have a few ideas about how to secure the lines. I like the clamps your talking about and will look into those.


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)




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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Look very nice, excellent fit around the trunk contour :thumbup: For your hardlines you know that you can polish both the copper and aluminium lines right? Tape the ends where they fit into the PTC and clear coat them to keep the sheen. I also like the look of S.S. but it can get expensive and like you mentioned that transition is tricky, can alway trim it back until no plastic line is exposed. Re-doing my sons air ride this spring with aluminium hardlines.


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

northendroid said:


> Look very nice, excellent fit around the trunk contour :thumbup: For your hardlines you know that you can polish both the copper and aluminium lines right? Tape the ends where they fit into the PTC and clear coat them to keep the sheen. I also like the look of S.S. but it can get expensive and like you mentioned that transition is tricky, can alway trim it back until no plastic line is exposed. Re-doing my sons air ride this spring with aluminium hardlines.


Thanks. It's a little off on the left side where the rear section meets the forward section. It bugs the crap out of me but fixing means redoing the forward section and that's not happening. 

I've stained the rear section and will start clear coats this afternoon. I also got some aluminum line in the mail yesterday. 










Instead of ordering a tubing straightener for nearly $100, I'm going to make my own. Looked at some homemade ones online and it looks fairly easy to do. 

I also ordered some clamps. I looked forever and couldn't find exactly what I wanted so I'm settling with these. The only issue I have with these is that the tube spacing is slightly more than I would like.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Where did you order the clamps from love how they look?


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

northendroid said:


> Where did you order the clamps from love how they look?


http://www.alteregomc.com/parts/line-clamps

I got my bulkhead fittings in yesterday.



















I'm not mounting them in the wood piece in the first picture. It's just something I was messing around with.


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

I still have some minor woodwork to do but the bulk of it is finished. Now I can focus on the air lines and electrical.


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

I really didn't want to spend the money on a tubing straightener, but now that I have it I'm glad I did. This thing works really well.


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

Which I had one of those when I did my build would have saved me hours of straighten the S.S. tubing.:banghead:


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## bahrns (Feb 4, 2007)

It's been a while since I have done anything with the car. I've been really tied up with other things. I fought with the aluminum line for a while but I couldn't get them to seal properly. I'm going to settle with plastic lines for now while I finish getting everything together. When I find time I will start running some hardlines.


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