# Best Precision Entry Level Turbo?



## fiddypassat (Mar 28, 2012)

I'm looking to produce in the range of 3-500 HP and was wondering what the best Entry Level Precision Turbo would work on the 2.5l I5? The reason I'm saying 3-500, is I'm thinking starting with all necessary turbo additions, but will like to lower compression and do internals at a later time, but don't really want to have to get another turbo at that point. At first I'm trying to reach around 3-320 whp, pushing about 10 psi, and after internals, will probably push about 14psi. Is this a reasonable quest, or is this really going to just have to be a one turbo for one configuration, and a second turbo for the other?


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## mldouthi (Jun 26, 2010)

fiddypassat said:


> I'm looking to produce in the range of 3-500 HP and was wondering what the best Entry Level Precision Turbo would work on the 2.5l I5? The reason I'm saying 3-500, is I'm thinking starting with all necessary turbo additions, but will like to lower compression and do internals at a later time, but don't really want to have to get another turbo at that point. At first I'm trying to reach around 3-320 whp, pushing about 10 psi, and after internals, will probably push about 14psi. Is this a reasonable quest, or is this really going to just have to be a one turbo for one configuration, and a second turbo for the other?



When are you wanting full boost?


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## fiddypassat (Mar 28, 2012)

mldouthi said:


> When are you wanting full boost?


I'd say about 3000ish should be good, as that should make for a pretty strong power curve.


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## TylerO28 (Jul 7, 2008)

5557 its a quick spooling turbo and relatively cheap or a 6262
But you will eventually end up buying another better one... Question though. Why are you planning on lowering compression we have found now that you really dont need to open up the motor to make 400 hp reliably... Search for more information and you will learn the lower compression spacers arent really needed... But built with internals you can easily push 22 psi without issue
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## fiddypassat (Mar 28, 2012)

TylerO28 said:


> 5557 its a quick spooling turbo and relatively cheap or a 6262
> But you will eventually end up buying another better one... Question though. Why are you planning on lowering compression we have found now that you really dont need to open up the motor to make 400 hp reliably... Search for more information and you will learn the lower compression spacers arent really needed... But built with internals you can easily push 22 psi without issue
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


Wow, I have been reading, and have noticed that anything offered as a "kit" stating "stage 3" suggests lowering compression, and built with forged internals. I was unaware (nor have I read anything) that you could push that high of boost without lowering compression, and still have a reliable system. All I've really seen is talk about under 400hp, and anything over was definitely fully built with lowered compression.

Wow those turbos have potential to produce some serious hp, when would these turbos actually be at full boost? I was looking at the 5831, or the TA60 as options as well, I do see that the build quality on the turbos you suggested is better though. Thanks for the help here.


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## TylerO28 (Jul 7, 2008)

The biggest issue with the 2.5turbo, is our rings... They cant handle a lot without burning up...but that issue is only due to the amount of air that goes in...what Jeff from united motor sports has found reliably is the intake manifold we get stock is total garbage. The reason vw went with the plastic cork we get is because the 2.5 couldn't make more power than the gti obviously they simply tuned it to be less powerful... By bolting a short runner intake manifold, and a precision turbo, as well as a pro.m mass airflow meter, you can easily hit big numbers without ever cracking open a factory seal... Crazy i know, but its been done.

The lower compression spacers being sold arent really necessary for big numbers not many people knew this even 1year ago.

My current set up is the c2 kit with a precision 5557 turbo and it spools full boost around 3 grand rpm. I also have 2.5" exhaust with a test pipe and a fmic and trust mw when i say this is seriously enough power... Im talking burn outs at 60 mph if its wet outside... 400 hp is a big number without accompanying mods.

Clutch, flywheel, limited slip diff etc you'll need those without a doubt.
I blew my clutch the first week of turbo, tranny went as well so i had to buy a new oem one

Get your wallet out because its an expensive adventure but the looks on the mustang, porsche, gti, bmw and merc guys' faces is priceless when you literally run away from them like they are standing still


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## TylerO28 (Jul 7, 2008)

Internals you can easily hit 700+ hp with 22 psi so maybe a full build isn't necessary for you 


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## Brabbit32 (Apr 13, 2009)

If you invest in a SRI and build everything on the turbo side of things properly, stock internals will be "safe" at 15psi. It should easily make 330whp on 15psi, as i made 334WHP on 14psi with the 6262. 

My stock clutch was slipping on 7psi... So make sure you upgrade with the future in mind.

Currently running 22psi and lighting up 235/40-18 KDW's at 55-60mph on the highway in 3rd.

AWD this winter then 30+psi shooting to break 550AWHP.


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## fiddypassat (Mar 28, 2012)

TylerO28 said:


> The biggest issue with the 2.5turbo, is our rings... They cant handle a lot without burning up...but that issue is only due to the amount of air that goes in...what Jeff from united motor sports has found reliably is the intake manifold we get stock is total garbage. The reason vw went with the plastic cork we get is because the 2.5 couldn't make more power than the gti obviously they simply tuned it to be less powerful... By bolting a short runner intake manifold, and a precision turbo, as well as a pro.m mass airflow meter, you can easily hit big numbers without ever cracking open a factory seal... Crazy i know, but its been done.
> 
> The lower compression spacers being sold arent really necessary for big numbers not many people knew this even 1year ago.
> 
> ...


Wow, those numbers look good, now I'm very excited. I'm pretty sure this is going to be a expensive journey, but it will be fun, and I'm not in a super rush, so a part here, a part there, till the final outcome... 



Brabbit32 said:


> If you invest in a SRI and build everything on the turbo side of things properly, stock internals will be "safe" at 15psi. It should easily make 330whp on 15psi, as i made 334WHP on 14psi with the 6262.
> 
> My stock clutch was slipping on 7psi... So make sure you upgrade with the future in mind.
> 
> ...


Damn, your really searching for the super ups man... I'm actually going to be doing this on a Passat, and was extremely interested in the exact same thing as your talking about. I'm thinking converting to a 4motion, big turbo, and watch the WRX's cry as a family sleeper hands it to 'em...


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## fiddypassat (Mar 28, 2012)

TylerO28 said:


> Internals you can easily hit 700+ hp with 22 psi so maybe a full build isn't necessary for you
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


Hey, also, being in Washington, what do you have to do to pass emissions tests? I'm guessing WA emissions standards are pretty strict, similar to CA, so just wondering...


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## jettaglx91 (Jul 27, 2004)

14psi stock motor from valve cover to oil pan

pretty much the safe limit of 500cc's, proven to make 400whp+ on bigger injectors


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## SocoJoe (Jul 4, 2009)

Seeing all these huge numbers make me happy but also seeing $-$ lol. Maybe one day.


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## fiddypassat (Mar 28, 2012)

jettaglx91 said:


> 14psi stock motor from valve cover to oil pan
> 
> pretty much the safe limit of 500cc's, proven to make 400whp+ on bigger injectors


Amazing, hopefully I'll come in right around there as well... :thumbup:


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## pennsydubbin (Mar 3, 2010)

Brabbit32 said:


> If you invest in a SRI and build everything on the turbo side of things properly, stock internals will be "safe" at 15psi. It should easily make 330whp on 15psi, as i made 334WHP on 14psi with the 6262.
> 
> My stock clutch was slipping on 7psi... So make sure you upgrade with the future in mind.
> 
> ...


sweet:laugh:


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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

jettaglx91 said:


> 14psi stock motor from valve cover to oil pan
> 
> pretty much the safe limit of 500cc's, proven to make 400whp+ on bigger injectors


What turbo is this with?


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## jettaglx91 (Jul 27, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> What turbo is this with?


6076-E cover


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## fiddypassat (Mar 28, 2012)

jettaglx91 said:


> 6076-E cover


Nice... What housing did your turbo have?


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## jettaglx91 (Jul 27, 2004)

fiddypassat said:


> Nice... What housing did your turbo have?


huh


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## fiddypassat (Mar 28, 2012)

jettaglx91 said:


> huh


Sorry, T3, or T4, V-band?


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

exhaust housing.


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## trep13 (Nov 8, 2012)

*turbo*

do you think these turbo's work good in rough winter condition .. i mean Quebec, Canada at minus 20-30 celcius ?

I am looking to upgrade my 2.5L , but wondering between C2 turbo , or SRI intake,software, exhaust ..


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## TylerO28 (Jul 7, 2008)

Want to make the most power? Turbo...
Reliability,sri... 
Will a turbo work in the winter? Yes.just let the car warm up. Otherwise pick.turbo will cost you much more in the end...for sure. 

You're decision. But there are plenty of turbo cars out there in every climate...

Sent from the bottomless pits of HELL!


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## stef 4x4 (Jan 8, 2012)

trep13 said:


> do you think these turbo's work good in rough winter condition .. i mean Quebec, Canada at minus 20-30 celcius ?
> 
> I am looking to upgrade my 2.5L , but wondering between C2 turbo , or SRI intake,software, exhaust ..


My experiance with turbo in winter conditions is that the engine feels a lot stronger.
That is not so strange because intake air is much colder and the engine works with max. front ignition.


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