# The "perfect" 8V?



## Mowgli87 (Jan 13, 2006)

_EDIT: This thread was started with the intent to find out more information about a mildly built NA 8v motor. The nature of the build(s) discussed herein should be relatively straight forward and affordable to the average Joe VW owner. The motors should be very street-able, but have the ability to entertain a driver on an auto-x course or performance driving events at a road course. Let's please keep the subject restricted to NA builds. I think everyone knows that a turbo 8V can be a demon, but I (the original poster) am trying to maintain some civility with my car...at least for now._









I've been researching some of the candidates for a NA motor build for my mk2 and I ran across the following section in the cheap a$$ build up thread:

_Quote, originally posted by *rocco8v* »_I mentioned before about "the perfect 8v" and I thought I would let everyone in on the frankenstein motor combo that
might get you thinking. Here it is:
G60 Head
G60 block
Digi II pistons and rods
16v crankshaft
using all stock parts... digi II dual outlet manifold for the exhaust, and the newer style intake manifold. Replace
the G60 cam with a factory "G" cam mentioned above. Now you have the best flowing head, 10:1 C/R, forged crank with
oil squirters, stock 8v. Running on digi II you could chip it with the AMS chip, and raise the compression a little
with a group A headgasket. This should yeild 10.6:1 C/R, and be a demon... 

Has anyone run this particular setup? If so, can you shed a little light on this subject please?
What are the "digi II pistons and rods"...what motor do they come from?
I'm assuming the 16V crank is from the PL (1.8L), correct?
What kind of power would one expect from that particular combination?




Before someone just defaults to "turbo your current motor" or "ABA swap FTW", I would really like to understand the above setup before I move on. 
I would LOVE to boost my RD, but I'd also like to keep things simple while being slightly more entertaining. If I end up just keeping the RD, then it's gonna need an overhaul if I want to squeeze any power out of it.
I hope this can be an enlightening thread. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by Mowgli87 at 10:11 PM 4-17-2010_


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

*FV-QR*

1. G60 head: no difference in it than any other hydraulic 8v head, except for the sodium filled exhaust valves. The urban legend about it being the best-flowing head has been debunked numerous times.
2. G60 block: same block (more or less) as the Digi-2 blocks, except it has piston squirters and a really irritating hole on the timing belt side that leaks coolant.
3. Digi-2 pistons and rods: why not just use a digi-2 engine?
4. 16v crankshaft: will not work with Digi-2 rods, since the pin height of the 16v and 8v pistons are different, as the stroke is not the same. 16v stroke is 92.8mm, 8v stroke is 86.4mm. The pistons would be popping out of the top of the block.
Ignore that recipe (since it's basically about building a 10:1 8v) and use a high compression (10:1) digi-2 motor, it's hundreds of dollars cheaper (or even FREE).


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## Jettaboy1884 (Jan 20, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (B4S)*

I agree with the above. There's really nothing special or perfect about that combination of parts.
Personally, I love the 8v motors in naturally aspirated form. They're pretty much the underdog of the VW lineup, yet they provide a nice amount of power, while being simple (visually and mechanically).
Off the top of my head, I think the highest compression 1.8L 8v is found in the Digifant II GTI or Carat (PL or RV).
There are a few ways to build a "perfect" 8v using stock VW/Audi parts. It will depend on what kind of motor you want.
Do you want a stroker with large displacement, or a small displacement screamer, or something in the middle? There are several combinations of OEM parts to achieve any of these.


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## Mowgli87 (Jan 13, 2006)

*FV-QR*

OK, so we've covered the fact that a NA G60 is not a cost effective "upgrade" from my RD.
Moving on. Like I said in the first post if I keep my current motor, it's gonna need some attention soon. It's burning a good bit of oil at idle. I'd like to be able to keep a motor build relatively simple, without getting into a rush about things. Then when I finish the build, I could just make the swap in a weekend (hopefully).
Since we've already got a topic open for this, I'll take this chance to ask a couple more general 8V build questions if you guys don't mind. I have been reading, and will continue to read, the tech sections in the 8V forums.
It is my understanding that an ABA bottom end combined with a P&P 1.8L head (either x-flow or counterflow), mild cam, and dual outlet downpipe will result in a very peppy NA motor. Anybody have first hand experience with this?
If I went that route, would I be able to keep my CIS-E fuel system? Not that I'm against converting to digi, I think I would just rather not mess with fuel or ignition too much right now.
So, now I'm considering one of the following:
1) ABA shortblock with RD head.
2) Bite the bullet and just rebuild my motor with group A HG and a little head work.
3) Open to other low cost NA suggestions.
Just FYI, I don't really want to do forced induction yet, because it gets out of hand SOOO easily (read: tempting to turn up the boost). I need a limiting factor while I'm still in college so I don't break the bank too severly.











_Modified by Mowgli87 at 3:43 PM 4-17-2010_


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## Jettaboy1884 (Jan 20, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Mowgli87)*

The oil burning with your current motor may be as simple as worn out valve stem seals. That will leak oil down the valve stem, where it will get sucked in the cylinder and burn. Or, it may be something more serious...
Anyways, to answer a few of your questions: Yes, an ABA (2.0L) block topped with a mildly ported and rebuilt head is pretty peppy. Now, that depends a lot on what car you're stuffing it into, and what trans you are running, but there will be a noticeable and worthwhile increase in torque and power regardless. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
One important thing to note: The counterflow head is the one on the 1.8L 8v motor Intake and exhaust ports are on the back side. The crossflow head is only found on the 2.0L 8v motors (yes, the 16v is crossflow) which has the intake ports on the front, and exhaust on the back.
Regarding the fuel injection: You can only keep your existing CIS-E fule injection if you use a counterflow 8v head. Technically, you could run the CIS-E on a crossflow, but it requires a custom intake manifold, and a whole lot more effort to make it work. Not worth it in my opinion.


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## JGWarner (Oct 22, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Mowgli87)*

I'm also considering this same setup. P+P, small stem valves, 2.0L bottom end and improved intake/exhaust. And a healthy cam to take advantage of all that air!
Keep in mind this setup bring your compression to around/over 10.0:1. A knock sensor would help take advantage of all that extra compression without having to run aviation fuel...








Sorry, maybe you've already got one. My primitive Fox does not!


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## Mowgli87 (Jan 13, 2006)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jettaboy1884* »_The oil burning with your current motor may be as simple as worn out valve stem seals. That will leak oil down the valve stem, where it will get sucked in the cylinder and burn. Or, it may be something more serious...
Anyways, to answer a few of your questions: Yes, an ABA (2.0L) block topped with a mildly ported and rebuilt head is pretty peppy. Now, that depends a lot on what car you're stuffing it into, and what trans you are running, but there will be a noticeable and worthwhile increase in torque and power regardless. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
One important thing to note: The counterflow head is the one on the 1.8L 8v motor Intake and exhaust ports are on the back side. The crossflow head is only found on the 2.0L 8v motors (yes, the 16v is crossflow) which has the intake ports on the front, and exhaust on the back.
Regarding the fuel injection: You can only keep your existing CIS-E fule injection if you use a counterflow 8v head. Technically, you could run the CIS-E on a crossflow, but it requires a custom intake manifold, and a whole lot more effort to make it work. Not worth it in my opinion. 


Yeah, based on my reading and limited knowledge of motors, valve stem seals seem like a probable cause of the leak. Especially considering it only seems to burn oil at idle, i.e., under vacuum.
Sorry I didn't clarify earlier. This setup will be going into my 86 GTI, so it should be spry enough to make good use of any extra power. It'll see mainly street use, but I'm going to auto-x it some too. I might also take it to a few track days.
I'm aware of the difference in counter flow and cross flow, but thanks for keeping things clear. Maybe this thread can be of use to future 8V'ers.
I'll likely keep my counter flow head regardless of block, so CIS-E will remain I suppose. At least for the time being.

_Quote, originally posted by *JGWarner* »_I'm also considering this same setup. P+P, small stem valves, 2.0L bottom end and improved intake/exhaust. And a healthy cam to take advantage of all that air!
Keep in mind this setup bring your compression to around/over 10.0:1. A knock sensor would help take advantage of all that extra compression without having to run aviation fuel...








Sorry, maybe you've already got one. My primitive Fox does not! 


Yeah, I'm actually hoping for slightly higher CR. The RD that came in my car is supposed to be 10:1 already. The group A HG adds about half a point IIRC; taking it to around 10.5:1. For the ABA I'm not sure what CR will end up being. I think I saw in a thread somewhere that it comes to about the same (10.5:1). I'm pretty sure the RD does have a knock sensor, so pump gas and a little timing advance should still be usable. 
Thanks for all the tips so far guys! Keep 'em coming!



_Modified by Mowgli87 at 7:24 PM 4-17-2010_


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## JGWarner (Oct 22, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Mowgli87)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Mowgli87* »_Yeah, I'm actually hoping for slightly higher CR. The RD that came in my car is supposed to be 10:1 already. The group A HG adds about half a point IIRC; taking it to around 10.5:1.

Hrm... I'm sure your stock CR is around 10.0:1, but I'm also pretty sure your GTI has the same big valve head as a late model digifant fox, which has only 9.0:1 CR. The compression difference is not in the head, it's in the piston crowns. Your GTI has flat(ish) tops, where the Fox has dished tops.
Sounds like it's gonna be a sweet setup. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## vwfenix (Mar 7, 2008)

if your building something for auto-x, you need response. So lightened flywheel, lightweight cam gears, pulleys etc will make a pretty decent difference, more noticeable in track times than seat of the pants acceleration. head work can make all the difference, especially for an NA build. Im new in vw performance, but not new in engine building. At the very least, gasket match the intake and exhaust ports on the head, go ahead and port and polish it as well, it will make a larger difference the more you do to the engine. and one of the keys to building NA power is cam overlap. Where the intake and exhaust ports are both open at the same time for a split second, its supposed to help clean the cylinders from what was explained to me, but im sure the others on here know more about it than me when it comes to vw's


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## nairmac (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: (vwfenix)*

I'd do a 3A with either a JH head or a big valve digi (8V MK2 GTI) head. Because that's kinda what I did.


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## Mowgli87 (Jan 13, 2006)

*FV-QR*

^^HAHA...That's kinda redundant to suggest what you would do after you've already done it.








So, what's the benefit of solid lifter heads over hydro for a street car? I somewhat understand that solid heads can maintain valve train efficiency at higher revs. Therefore, it makes perfect sense to use solid lifter heads in race cars that remain in high revs for extended periods of time. However, is it really beneficial to a street car that only sees _some_ auto-x and maybe a few track days? 
On that note, how common is it to over-rev the hydro valve train, i.e., starve the hydro of oil? Would an upgraded oil flow system help maintain performance for hydros?
If a JH head on a ABA will yield significantly better results than my RD head on the same block, and with the same amount of head work, then I might just convert. About how much more would that take out of my pocket? Is it a direct bolt on, or is there a good bit of modification involved to fit the head?


_Modified by Mowgli87 at 10:11 PM 4-19-2010_


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## Jettaboy1884 (Jan 20, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Mowgli87)*

As you stated, the main benefit of solid lifter over hydro lifter is that you can rev a solid lifter higher without floating the valves. However, you will need to shim the solid lifters every once in a while, and it's a bit harder & more expensive to find a good condition solid lifter head. Hydro heads are plentiful. Aside from the difficulty in finding a good solid lifter head to build, keep in mind that even the stock shim-type lifters have their limits.
I used to have an ABA (hydro lifter) head with heavy duty springs, and I could take it to about 7200-7300 before the lifters would begin pumping up (I'm pretty sure that is what the awful vibration type of sound was).
Now, I believe that with a properly built hydraulic lifter head, you can safely get some more RPM from it. If you use HD springs, the lighter AEG lifters, maybe titanium retainers, and the 7mm valves from an ABA head (or buy new Supertech ones) then you should be able to take it up to 8k.
One thing to keep in mind is that we're still dealing with an 8v head here, so there is a difinitive point of diminishing returns to keep in mind. Unless you have some serious headwork and intake/exhaust system to flow at 8k, then it won't be worth the money. 
So, just to reiterate: If I were to build another 8v motor (and I was actually starting to) I'd use a hydro head and build it right the first time. Now, if I were building a small displacement screamer, then I'd be more inclined to use a solid lifter head so I could rev the crap out of it and still make some power...
Not sure if that helps...


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## Mowgli87 (Jan 13, 2006)

*FV-QR*

That does help actually. I appreciate you shedding some more light on the subject. However, keep in mind that I want to _try_ to keep the cost down on this. That said, I think the high revving, solid head 8V is out of the question for now. Valve train parts get expensive FAST! For head work I'd rather just go as far as a mild cam, gasket matched P&P, and MAYBE the 7mm valves if I can find a good deal on some.
Considering this car will see mixed use as a DD and an occasional auto-xer, I shouldn't need a hell of a lot of top end anyway. Most of my power needs will be from low to mid range RPM. This is why I'm leaning more toward the ABA/RD hybrid. If I'm not mistaken, that will give me a good bit more torque down low than a 1.8 solid lifter motor. At the same time, I'll still get a good bump up top too (compared to stock). Am I right?
Now, as far as the cam is concerned, I haven't really done a whole lot of research on it. Rather than just blatantly suggest which cam, can someone point me in the right direction to make an _informed_ decision? I know there are some good write ups floating around here somewhere...


_Modified by Mowgli87 at 8:58 AM 4-20-2010_


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## MKIGTITDI (Aug 25, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Mowgli87)*

I currently have an ABA JH big valve solid lifter set up in my mki Scirocco and personally id go the route of the aba bottom with around a TT 270* cam. I have a 280* cam in my solid lifter and love it but i dont overly know the real difference between the solid lifter and hydro when it comes to cams.


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## nairmac (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (MKIGTITDI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MKIGTITDI* »_I currently have an ABA JH big valve solid lifter set up in my mki Scirocco and personally id go the route of the aba bottom with around a TT 270* cam. I have a 280* cam in my solid lifter and love it but i dont overly know the real difference between the solid lifter and hydro when it comes to cams.

I have a TT 270* hydro cam in my big valve digi head, which I picked as an all purpose cam, able to be used with some benefit in an n/a setup and also for boost. I wish I could tell you the benefits of just the cam, but I did everything at once. I will say that the car idles rock-solid smooth and revs great up to about 6800 where it runs out (which is fine for me).


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## Mowgli87 (Jan 13, 2006)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *nairmac* »_
I have a TT 270* hydro cam in my big valve digi head, which I picked as an all purpose cam, able to be used with some benefit in an n/a setup and also for boost. I wish I could tell you the benefits of just the cam, but I did everything at once. I will say that the car idles rock-solid smooth and revs great up to about 6800 where it runs out (which is fine for me).


This sounds like a pretty desirable setup for me too. I still want to learn more about the kinematics and dynamics of the cam profile though. I'm a mechanical engineering student. I am becoming a product of my classes, so I like to have a solid understanding of the systems in my car before I start tampering with stuff. I guess some of my tuition money is actually going to good use.








When you say you "did everything at once", what is everything? Are you saying that you just built motor completely and then put it in the car? That's probably what I'll end up doing with mine.
I recently came to the realization that my motor is consuming oil almost as efficiently as gas.








And on that note, I need to go ahead and start making a list of parts for this build. I'm just gonna throw some stuff out there, and you guys just let me know if I'm on the right track. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
*ABA Short Block*

It's my understanding that the obd1 and obd2 ABA's are different. What are all of the differences for the _blocks_? Do they both have forged internals?
Based on what we've discussed so far, I should just be able to buy a short block without having to modify anything, correct?
*Head (core)*

Option 1: Reuse my current RD head. 
Option 2: Buy another CIS-E head to reduce downtime. 
Re-deck the head mating surface (if needed), and get a gasket matched port and polish on intake and exhaust sides.
*Group A Head gasket*

Are you guys running one of these? It is a metal head gasket right? Will I need to have a really low Ra on the head-to-block mating surfaces?
*ARP head studs*

Are these really necessary? Or should I just stick with OEM?
*Valve Train*

Option 1: Keep the stock RD setup.
Option 2: Convert to 7mm valves. How much of the valve train is affected by this conversion, i.e., what do I need to make it work? Is this purely for better weight and frictional losses?
*270* Cam*

*Other options*

Have any of you guys had experience with phenolic gasket spacers? Does anyone even make them for 8Vs? It just seems like with the counter flow setup, there might be some gains if one could isolate as much heat as possible from the intake manifold.
Continuing with that thought, would it be beneficial to install some sort of heat shield to the bottom side of the intake manifold? A lot of race teams use some kind of gold adhesive film for heat shields. It's supposed to work really well. I'll try to find the stuff I'm talking about.
Other suggestions are welcome...







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 



_Modified by Mowgli87 at 12:04 PM 4-21-2010_


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## MKIGTITDI (Aug 25, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Mowgli87)*

From my understanding the forged internals only came in the OBD1 aba block and they also came with oil squirters. Someone correct me if im wong.


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## nairmac (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (MKIGTITDI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MKIGTITDI* »_From my understanding the forged internals only came in the OBD1 aba block and they also came with oil squirters. Someone correct me if im wong.

Thats correct.


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## dogyouare (Aug 10, 2009)

oh but g60 block is better at cooling it self off... how they designed it


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## GTichris70 (Jun 13, 2008)

*Re: The "perfect" 8V? (Mowgli87)*

there is nothing "un-civil" about turbocharging. i drove my 85 calloway GTI
for 16 yrs. with NO problems.(after i rebuilt the engine/turbo that had been neglected by the P.O.) if you want power-the kind you seem to want-
this is what you need. the only real issues w/turbos are concerning heat. this is why Volkswagen waited so long to unleash the 1.8T. my GTI has 180hp/180 foot lbs. of torque. you can "match port",swap intakes, etc. all you want,
but you will NEVER get any real results. turbos are the answer.-- remember
Volkswagen came to the same conclusion. they experimented w/turbos for many years and AUDI is known as the worlds foremost authority on turbocharging ...unless cost is your issue,you have nothing to fear concerning turbos.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dogyouare* »_oh but g60 block is better at cooling it self off... how they designed it


You wont be able to tell the difference in the cooling. No way in hell.. Quite overthinking things


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## Mowgli87 (Jan 13, 2006)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *GTichris70* »_there is nothing "un-civil" about turbocharging. i drove my 85 calloway GTI
for 16 yrs. with NO problems.(after i rebuilt the engine/turbo that had been neglected by the P.O.) if you want power-the kind you seem to want-
this is what you need. the only real issues w/turbos are concerning heat. this is why Volkswagen waited so long to unleash the 1.8T. my GTI has 180hp/180 foot lbs. of torque. you can "match port",swap intakes, etc. all you want,
but you will NEVER get any real results. turbos are the answer.-- remember
Volkswagen came to the same conclusion. they experimented w/turbos for many years and AUDI is known as the worlds foremost authority on turbocharging ...unless cost is your issue,you have nothing to fear concerning turbos. 


I know that if a turbo motor is done right, then it can indeed be incredibly reliable and efficient. Before I had the mk2, I drove a mk4 1.8T GTI for 4 years and loved every minute of it. Unfortunately I totaled it last fall and moved to the mk2 to save a little on insurance.
Don't get me wrong I'm not against a turbo kit at all. I LOVE turbos! It is an amazingly efficient way to make power. It's actually still a faint option in the back of my mind. But for the time being, I really just want to keep things NA. Maybe when I get out of college and have a steady income, I'll boost the mk2.
I'm not going for crazy high NA power anyway. To be perfectly honest, I don't really want to make a lot of power for the mk2 while I'm still in college. More power leads to more stress on old ass parts like the trans, axles, brakes, etc.


_Modified by Mowgli87 at 9:42 PM 4-21-2010_


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## nairmac (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Mowgli87)*

I hear ya. My car, until very recently (like last week), was a CIS turbo. But with having moved to Vegas (heat) and a bad turbo, I stripped it all off and am now running it n/a. Which is fine with me- I plan on doing some auto x-ing and would rather invest in a limited slip trans for that than have the extra power. Basically, i'd rather not have to slow down for corners than have more speed on the straights. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by nairmac at 11:49 PM 4-21-2010_


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## Jettaboy1884 (Jan 20, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (nairmac)*

Here is a thread which answers your question about putting the ABA 7mm valves into a Digifant II head.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4784513 
Cliff Notes: The ABA 7mm valves are .5mm smaller in diameter, which means you'll have to have a machine shop cut the seats of your head to match up the mating surfaces. 
If you're having a shop rebuild the head, I'd think this extra machining should be pretty reasonable, and the gain in flow is worth a few horsepower for sure.


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## kroutbrner (Nov 2, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Jettaboy1884)*

I have a very peppy 8v 84 GTI. read my sig for my mods. I had it on a dyno 500 miles after the build was done. Makes about 120whp. You could sub my giant 306 TT cam for something more streetable and have a very quick and fum DD.


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## corradog67 (Feb 20, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
You wont be able to tell the difference in the cooling. No way in hell.. Quite overthinking things


i dont want to threadjack but this is very interesting to me.

I have a G60 block laying around from my old rado, it has been bored out and has ross 83mm forged pistons in it.
would it be benficial to make this into an N/A screamer or just throw boost at it?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *corradog67* »_

i dont want to threadjack but this is very interesting to me.

I have a G60 block laying around from my old rado, it has been bored out and has ross 83mm forged pistons in it.
would it be benficial to make this into an N/A screamer or just throw boost at it?


Consider the compression ratio... Is it low compression? Then boost it.


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## corradog67 (Feb 20, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

well yes and thank you for clearing that up now back to good ol' 8v tuning


_Modified by corradog67 at 11:06 PM 4-22-2010_


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## Peter Tong (Jun 17, 1999)

*Re: The "perfect" 8V? (Mowgli87)*

Perfect 8v in my humble opinion:
Eurospec head with 42mm/35mm valves...
Schrick 280 assym. solid cam
built ABA bottom end
custom zero restriction counterflow intake manifold
and a twin screw charger (keeps the stock torque curve, but shunts it upwards 2.5x and broadens it)








Oh and make sure its in an A1 to have the go cart effect








i'll use deathhare's former 8v as an example: 










_Modified by Peter Tong at 7:11 PM 4-24-2010_


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## ny_fam (Apr 3, 2004)

*Re: The "perfect" 8V? (Peter Tong)*

Agreed with Peter! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
This thread needs a picture of an all out special purpose 8v.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *ny_fam* »_Agreed with Peter! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
This thread needs a picture of an all out special purpose 8v.











Such a beautiful setup!


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## Dubber20 (Apr 25, 2010)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

how much power we talking out of this N/A 8v motor if every thing is upgraded ?? im new to the mk2 motors thanks


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Dubber20* »_how much power we talking out of this N/A 8v motor if every thing is upgraded ?? im new to the mk2 motors thanks


depends... what are you upgrading?


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## Mowgli87 (Jan 13, 2006)

*FV-QR*

DAMN! That twin screw 8V looks like a BEAST! But, how much would a setup like that cost? Remember, I'm gonna try to keep costs relatively low. That charger alone is probably than I want to spend on the whole motor.

_Quote, originally posted by *Dubber20* »_how much power we talking out of this N/A 8v motor if every thing is upgraded ?? im new to the mk2 motors thanks



_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
depends... what are you upgrading?


I think he might be referring to the motor that I proposed a few posts up. If my understanding is correct so far, that should yield somewhere in the neighborhood of 120-140 whp and about the same tq. Is that correct?


_Modified by Mowgli87 at 10:17 AM 4-26-2010_


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