# My Engine Rebuild



## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

My timing belt broke last week and bent all my valves. I took the head out to get it redone. Here's some pictures of the process and I'll post more as things get done. 
This section of the belt has no teeth on it.


















It knocked the rockers off.









Valve cover, intake and cam chain cover off









Chain and tensioner still good but going to replace them anyway. 









Turbo is out. New k04 on the way. 









Head out and going to the shop for new valves. 









How it looks now

















How can I clean the top of the pistons?
The valves made small little groves in it, will it be ok?


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Nice pics. Good luck with the rebuild and enjoy that k04! :beer:


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## DLV (Dec 10, 2012)

I owned a 73 vw camper bus and rebuilt that engine. I got the jugs honed from a shop before I put back in the pistons and rings. 

Do people still hone jugs? Maybe that'll fix the groove problem.


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

DLV said:


> I owned a 73 vw camper bus and rebuilt that engine. I got the jugs honed from a shop before I put back in the pistons and rings.
> 
> Do people still hone jugs? Maybe that'll fix the groove problem.


I was trying to avoid taking out the pistons. The grooves are on top of the pistons and I don't know if its ok or I need to replace them. 
I was told that when redoing a head on a high mileage vehicle will put more pressure on the bottom end. What else do I need to replace?


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## Rub-ISH (Aug 8, 2006)

Audi_O said:


> I was trying to avoid taking out the pistons. The grooves are on top of the pistons and I don't know if its ok or I need to replace them.
> I was told that when redoing a head on a high mileage vehicle will put more pressure on the bottom end. What else do I need to replace?


While its open you should really just do the rod's and bearing...the labor will never get cheaper than right now


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

Rub-ISH said:


> While its open you should really just do the rod's and bearing...the labor will never get cheaper than right now


What about the pistons, you think they are ok with the marks in it?


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Audi_O said:


> What about the pistons, you think they are ok with the marks in it?


Fine. Just polish things off smooth. Sharp edges can create hot spots that can cause pre-ignition.


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## bobbeck (Jan 4, 2001)

Looks familiar. I spent $2500 in parts. Are your cams ok? My exhaust side was damaged. The cam adjuster & housing was a nice $600 surprise, the cracked manifold was nice too. Replaced all the valves, only exhaust side were bent but why not. Head was $500 to get redone. Replaced rockers, fuel injectors, all the gaskets and flanges that were removed, the chain and why not stick a new cam follower in. And of corse the water pump, tensioner etc were done right this time. 

Originally was going the used engine or used head route. Glad I didn't and just replaced everything while it was opened up. Used would have needed most if not all of the service eventually anyway. I did some of the work ( parts sourcing and tear down). Paid $800 to my indie to put it all back together. 

Now after 10,000 miles ( since February!) it's my commuter that finally stopped using a quart of oil every 2000 miles and now gets 38mpg when driven conservatively at 55 mph on flat roads. 

Good luck.


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## JaxACR (Dec 6, 2007)

Out of curiosity, how many miles on that timing belt? Did one of your pulleys seize? The way the teeth are all stripped in one section makes it seem like something stopped spinning freely and ruined the belt.

I love builds like this, something breaks and becomes a good excuse for an upgrade! "We can rebuild him, we have the technology." Hopefully this doesn't become the six million dollar engine though, haha!

@DLV- I've heard mixed opinions on honing modern engines. Apparently many of them have a thin layer of different material on the cylinder walls, like a glaze, and honing it can damage or completely remove this layer. I've also seen a few of the respected tuners in the VW scene say they hone/bore them and it doesn't matter. Not sure it really matters, I've seen more than a few modern engines with 100k+ miles that still have the original hatch marks visible on the cylinder walls.


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

bobbeck said:


> Looks familiar. I spent $2500 in parts. Are your cams ok? My exhaust side was damaged. The cam adjuster & housing was a nice $600 surprise, the cracked manifold was nice too. Replaced all the valves, only exhaust side were bent but why not. Head was $500 to get redone. Replaced rockers, fuel injectors, all the gaskets and flanges that were removed, the chain and why not stick a new cam follower in. And of corse the water pump, tensioner etc were done right this time.
> 
> Originally was going the used engine or used head route. Glad I didn't and just replaced everything while it was opened up. Used would have needed most if not all of the service eventually anyway. I did some of the work ( parts sourcing and tear down). Paid $800 to my indie to put it all back together.
> 
> ...


My cams are ok. Yea the cam adjuster was a surprise, found one for $325 new. I'm getting all new valves but using the same springs and rockers. The head is at the shop right now getting tested to make sure no damage was done to it. New valves and getting them installed with the testing came to $500. I have a new timing belt kit, s3 injectors, and all new gaskets going in. I'm doing all the work myself except the head. I hope I remember how it all goes back together lol.


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

JaxACR said:


> Out of curiosity, how many miles on that timing belt? Did one of your pulleys seize? The way the teeth are all stripped in one section makes it seem like something stopped spinning freely and ruined the belt.
> 
> I love builds like this, something breaks and becomes a good excuse for an upgrade! "We can rebuild him, we have the technology." Hopefully this doesn't become the six million dollar engine though, haha!
> 
> @DLV- I've heard mixed opinions on honing modern engines. Apparently many of them have a thin layer of different material on the cylinder walls, like a glaze, and honing it can damage or completely remove this layer. I've also seen a few of the respected tuners in the VW scene say they hone/bore them and it doesn't matter. Not sure it really matters, I've seen more than a few modern engines with 100k+ miles that still have the original hatch marks visible on the cylinder walls.


About 85000 miles on that belt, it was the second one. Everything spun freely. I was on the highway going about 75mph and I just saw the rpms bouncing and it just shut off. I was able to coast to the side of the highway. 
Thats my excuse when something breaks, upgrade time. I'm spending as much as the car is worth on new parts, biggest was the APR turbo. I plan on keeping the car for a long time and I do the work myself. 

I'm not going to hone or bore the block. I read the same thing about the cylinder walls having a special coating on them. But I do want to get better drop in pistons and rods.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Audi_O said:


> About 85000 miles on that belt, it was the second one. Everything spun freely. I was on the highway going about 75mph and I just saw the rpms bouncing and it just shut off. I was able to coast to the side of the highway.
> Thats my excuse when something breaks, upgrade time. I'm spending as much as the car is worth on new parts, biggest was the APR turbo. I plan on keeping the car for a long time and I do the work myself.
> 
> I'm not going to hone or bore the block. I read the same thing about the cylinder walls having a special coating on them. But I do want to get better drop in pistons and rods.


I like the mentality, and well price of the car becomes irrelevant for people like us at this point lol. Looking forward to seeing it all done!


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## DLV (Dec 10, 2012)

Now THIS is a thread I will follow!
Cool that you are doing most of the work yourself. 
Good luck and may the force be with you.


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

Still waiting for parts to come in. Turbo is not going to ship until the 25th.  
Anyone know a good location for a battery relocate.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Audi_O said:


> Still waiting for parts to come in. Turbo is not going to ship until the 25th.
> Anyone know a good location for a battery relocate.


In the trunk.... there is a removable panel on the pass side next to the spare under the false floor that looks promising for a battery relocate. That's where I'm looking into doing mine.


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

npace said:


> In the trunk.... there is a removable panel on the pass side next to the spare under the false floor that looks promising for a battery relocate. That's where I'm looking into doing mine.


3.2 a3's have the battery in the trunk. fyi.


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

npace said:


> In the trunk.... there is a removable panel on the pass side next to the spare under the false floor that looks promising for a battery relocate. That's where I'm looking into doing mine.


I don't have that. I took out the styrofoam with the tools and I didn't see a removable panel.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

npace said:


> In the trunk.... there is a removable panel on the pass side next to the spare under the false floor that looks promising for a battery relocate. That's where I'm looking into doing mine.


Should be able to order the battery box from the 3.2 and drop it in. Be sure to get an AGM or some other non-wet cell battery. I think there was a DIY on a golf R somewhere on the forum (just can't find it right now)

Dave


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

crew219 said:


> Should be able to order the battery box from the 3.2 and drop it in. Be sure to get an AGM or some other non-wet cell battery. I think there was a DIY on a golf R somewhere on the forum (just can't find it right now)
> 
> Dave


Is the truck floor in the FWD different from the Quattro? 


Changed the oil cooler and oil filter housing gaskets. 

















Carbon build up everywhere.


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## JaxACR (Dec 6, 2007)

The OEM rear battery box will only work on quattro/4motion models, the trunk pan is different. If you want to get creative you can fit a Deka battery under the false floor without removing the spare tire if you cut the styrofoam.


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## Ut-A3 (Feb 10, 2012)

Only 80K?? Wow, everyone I see one of there's threads I'm glad mine held on till 130,xxx


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## mike3141 (Feb 16, 1999)

JaxACR said:


> The OEM rear battery box will only work on quattro/4motion models, the trunk pan is different. If you want to get creative you can fit a Deka battery under the false floor without removing the spare tire if you cut the styrofoam.



Early FWD A3s were built with quattro floor pans for some reason. The trunk liner that AoA sold originally was sized for the FWD floor pan and it didn't fit. They figured out that they had to use the quattro trunk liner instead.


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## JaxACR (Dec 6, 2007)

mike3141 said:


> Early FWD A3s were built with quattro floor pans for some reason. The trunk liner that AoA sold originally was sized for the FWD floor pan and it didn't fit. They figured out that they had to use the quattro trunk liner instead.


True, I do remember that, but is there clearance underneath for the battery to drop down? I thought the layout of the components under the car still precluded this from working. May have to take a look next time I'm under there because I'd love to be able to make the quattro battery box work. I know on my '07 (build date Sept. '06) there is no blanking plate where the battery box would go, just straight sheet metal under the foam.


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

Quick update
Supertech valves came in and the head should be ready Monday or Tuesday. Also painted S3/R calipers and installed.


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

I got the head back. It's so clean.

Old valves








Intake side








Exhaust side


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

Is this supposed to be missing these two notches?


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

Still waiting for the pistons to come in so I can start putting the engine back together. In the meantime I moved the battery to the trunk and installed water meth injection


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

I like where this is going


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Audi_O said:


> Is this supposed to be missing these two notches?


Looks broken to me...


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

Ponto said:


> Looks broken to me...


Damn. Will it be ok like that?


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Audi_O said:


> Damn. Will it be ok like that?


Past my expertise, but definitely looks like there used to be two bars there like the rest. Someone else will have to chime in.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Ponto said:


> Looks broken to me...





Ponto said:


> Past my expertise, but definitely looks like there used to be two bars there like the rest. Someone else will have to chime in.


I was going to say the same thing, but it's just a guess. I'm not even entirely sure what part we're looking at 

You might want to post over at the 2.0t forum: http://forums.vwvortex.com/forumdisplay.php?739-2-0T-FSI-TSI-and-TFSI-(EA113)-Engine-Forum 
There's a few really knowledgable people in there who could likely help you out.


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

BeeAlk said:


> I was going to say the same thing, but it's just a guess. I'm not even entirely sure what part we're looking at
> 
> You might want to post over at the 2.0t forum: http://forums.vwvortex.com/forumdisplay.php?739-2-0T-FSI-TSI-and-TFSI-(EA113)-Engine-Forum
> There's a few really knowledgable people in there who could likely help you out.


I did some searching and looked at pictures of other crankshafts and they all were like that. :thumbup: I guess its supposed to have two missing.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Audi_O said:


> I did some searching and looked at pictures of other crankshafts and they all were like that. :thumbup: I guess its supposed to have two missing.


It had me fooled! I told you I didn't even know what I was looking at. Good news then :beer:

What's the part called?


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

BeeAlk said:


> It had me fooled! I told you I didn't even know what I was looking at. Good news then
> 
> What's the part called?


I'm not sure what it's called but it's for the crankshaft speed or position sensor


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## majic (Mar 10, 2005)

Audi_O said:


> Is this supposed to be missing these two notches?


This is not broken. It's called a "missing tooth" wheel encoder setup. There are 30-1 and 60-2. This is a 60-2 setup... If you count all the teeth there should be 58 in total. The two missing teeth enable the computer to know where top dead center is.


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## majic (Mar 10, 2005)

If you're curious, this type of sensor is called a VR or "variable reluctance" type sensor. It is completely passive, in that it does not require power to work.

The camshaft position sensor, however, is a Hall effect sensor... The Hall effect is the change in resistance/current as a result of a change in the external magnetic field. Sounds similar, but it requires an active sensor (Hall effect sensors require power, essentially).

Hope that helps.

Also... God save you if you're going to try to install pistons with the motor inside the car. Technically possible, but man... What a PITA.


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

majic said:


> If you're curious, this type of sensor is called a VR or "variable reluctance" type sensor. It is completely passive, in that it does not require power to work.
> 
> The camshaft position sensor, however, is a Hall effect sensor... The Hall effect is the change in resistance/current as a result of a change in the external magnetic field. Sounds similar, but it requires an active sensor (Hall effect sensors require power, essentially).
> 
> ...


Thank you this was very helpful. And yes I'm doing everything with the motor inside the car. I don't have any other choice and I'm used to working on the ground now. I got the pistons out pretty easy, I'll see how it will be when I put the new ones in tomorrow.


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

Does anyone know if the MAF on a FSI is voltage or frequency based? I might have got the wrong controller for my w/m.


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## majic (Mar 10, 2005)

Audi_O said:


> Does anyone know if the MAF on a FSI is voltage or frequency based? I might have got the wrong controller for my w/m.


Frequency based


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

majic said:


> Frequency based


Damn I got the wrong one. I can run it on boost but I'm gonna try and exchange it to the right one to work off of the MAF. 
I got the IE rods on and the pistons back in the block. Hardest part was getting the oil pump back in. 

Never order from MJM Autohaus. This place is a joke. I ordered the cam adjuster from them 3 weeks ago and still haven't received it. They won't answer emails or phone calls.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Audi_O said:


> Damn I got the wrong one. I can run it on boost but I'm gonna try and exchange it to the right one to work off of the MAF.
> I got the IE rods on and the pistons back in the block. Hardest part was getting the oil pump back in.
> 
> Never order from *MJM Autohaus*. This place is a joke. I ordered the cam adjuster from them 3 weeks ago and still haven't received it. They won't answer emails or phone calls.


I wish you had said you were ordering from them before you did. There's a ton of complaints about them across the forum and I think they might have even lost their right to sponsor here. You may want to seriously consider cancelling the order and getting a refund and ordering somewhere else. Sorry man.


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## majic (Mar 10, 2005)

npace said:


> I wish you had said you were ordering from them before you did. There's a ton of complaints about them across the forum and I think they might have even lost their right to sponsor here. You may want to seriously consider cancelling the order and getting a refund and ordering somewhere else. Sorry man.


Don't even fool with trying to get a refund... Call your credit card company and report it. This happened to my dad a few months back when ordering clutch/flywheel/main/rod bearings. We ordered close to $1k in goods, didn't return calls or emails, nor requests for refunds. He just called his credit card company and had them cancel the charge for fraud, basically. I don't know how the website still exists.


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## majic (Mar 10, 2005)

Audi_O said:


> Damn I got the wrong one. I can run it on boost but I'm gonna try and exchange it to the right one to work off of the MAF.
> I got the IE rods on and the pistons back in the block. Hardest part was getting the oil pump back in.
> 
> Never order from MJM Autohaus. This place is a joke. I ordered the cam adjuster from them 3 weeks ago and still haven't received it. They won't answer emails or phone calls.


Hopefully you replaced the securing bolts for the oil pump with new bolts (they're torque to yield bolts)


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

npace said:


> I wish you had said you were ordering from them before you did. There's a ton of complaints about them across the forum and I think they might have even lost their right to sponsor here. You may want to seriously consider cancelling the order and getting a refund and ordering somewhere else. Sorry man.





majic said:


> Don't even fool with trying to get a refund... Call your credit card company and report it. This happened to my dad a few months back when ordering clutch/flywheel/main/rod bearings. We ordered close to $1k in goods, didn't return calls or emails, nor requests for refunds. He just called his credit card company and had them cancel the charge for fraud, basically. I don't know how the website still exists.


I've already talked with my bank and they are working on it. The company is only 2 and a half hours from me and I just want to go there and raise hell. 



majic said:


> Hopefully you replaced the securing bolts for the oil pump with new bolts (they're torque to yield bolts)


Oh I didn't know that. I hope it holds up.


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

Anyone know what is the best way to alight the crank and cam shafts for timing? How are the cams supposed to be aligned for the cam chain to go on or do I need to get the cam locking tool? 
Anyone have a cam locking tool that they will let me borrow?


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## majic (Mar 10, 2005)

You're really going to need the cam locking tool. I think there are some tool loan programs on the 'tex, just have to search around. I think it's 50 bucks or so if you check eBay


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

Should I run the water/meth off of the MAF or MAP? Whats better for the K04?


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

This bad boy went in today








APR K04


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## wishntoboutside (Mar 11, 2002)

Very nice


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## majic (Mar 10, 2005)

Audi_O said:


> This bad boy went on today
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Props for blocking off that damn pcv recirc port. You doing vent to atmosphere?


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

majic said:


> Props for blocking off that damn pcv recirc port. You doing vent to atmosphere?


I was tired off all the oil in the piping. I hope this helps with no more oil in the intercooler. I still haven't decided, the only thing I don't like about vent to atmosphere is the oil vapors get in the engine bay.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

Audi_O said:


> I was tired off all the oil in the piping. I hope this helps with no more oil in the intercooler. I still haven't decided, the only thing I don't like about vent to atmosphere is the oil vapors get in the engine bay.


yeah dont vent to atmosphere is no good for the world. keep up the good work


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

Added these as well








APR Runner Flap Delete


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

IE valve cover


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

You are going all out on this engine rebuild. That IE VC is awesome.


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

BeeAlk said:


> You are going all out on this engine rebuild. That IE VC is awesome.


Hell yea. Since I don't pay anyone to do the work I have extra money to spend on parts. 










She's alive, so far so good. Going to the shop in the morning to get it re-tuned. The exhaust sounds deeper with the K04.


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

Audi_O said:


> Hell yea. Since I don't pay anyone to do the work I have extra money to spend on parts.
> 
> She's alive, so far so good. Going to the shop in the morning to get it re-tuned. The exhaust sounds deeper with the K04.


That's badass. What breather setup are you using? Is that some kind of eurojet vta catch can or something? Just curious... I've never seen that setup before.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

congrats, looks like a new engine. would you do my t belt


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

npace said:


> That's badass. What breather setup are you using? Is that some kind of eurojet vta catch can or something? Just curious... I've never seen that setup before.


Yea it's a eurojet vta and I also have the recirculat lid too. I think they stopped making them. 


2006_A3_2.0T said:


> congrats, looks like a new engine. would you do my t belt


Thanks. Sure bring it by


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

Audi_O said:


> Yea it's a eurojet vta and I also have the recirculat lid too. I think they stopped making them.
> 
> Thanks. Sure bring it by


Eurojet went out of business after Stasis acquired the brand from Joel Schurtz and then proceeded to run Eurojet/Stasis into the dust.


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

crew219 said:


> Eurojet went out of business after Stasis acquired the brand from Joel Schurtz and then proceeded to run Eurojet/Stasis into the dust.


I liked Eurojet, they were making good stuff.
Does anyone know how much the boost is supposed to spike on the K04?


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

I F'ed up bad.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

Audi_O said:


> I F'ed up bad.


Whats that?


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> Whats that?


Hole in the block


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Oh ****, what happened?!


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

Ponto said:


> Oh ****, what happened?!


I don't know. I drove it yesterday to work and back no problem and then this morning on the way to work I was trying to pass up a car and BOOM :banghead:
I'll have to take the head off again to see what happened. Here goes rebuild part 2.


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## Ponto (Jan 11, 2012)

Audi_O said:


> I don't know. I drove it yesterday to work and back no problem and then this morning on the way to work I was trying to pass up a car and BOOM :banghead:
> I'll have to take the head off again to see what happened. Here goes rebuild part 2.


Man alive that sucks so much  it was all looking so awesome.


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## gls 1.8T cali-golf (Oct 22, 2007)

Audi_O said:


> I F'ed up bad.


 :facepalm:

Awww, that sucks!! I have been following this thread. Was really pumped to hear how the K04 was working out for ya. Oh well, back to work. Good luck!


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

Rotate pic 180° and it makes more sense. It's the bottom of engine.

At first I thought that maybe the connecting rod bolt backed out and impacted the case but that doesn't explain the dents elsewhere. I'm thinking a bolt/nut/tool/part got dropped into the pan and banged around until it found just the right spot between the connecting rod bolt and the case and BAM! Sucks dude.

Time to go with custom aluminum case... Red, to match the valve cover.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

Audi_O said:


> I F'ed up bad.


Broken rod / piston / wrist pin? 

Pretty sure you're never supposed to see the bottom of the rod at that angle.


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

I won't know for sure till I break it down again. I found a piece of the piston ring hanging out also.
Aluminum block is too expensive and I read that they are weaker than iron. Is there a different block from another car that is stronger that I can use like golf R or TTS? Or are they made the same?


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

What a bummer man.. Good luck with the rerebuild.

Staying tuned to hear what the cause was..


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

Audi_O said:


> I won't know for sure till I break it down again. I found a piece of the piston ring hanging out also.
> Aluminum block is too expensive and I read that they are weaker than iron. Is there a different block from another car that is stronger that I can use like golf R or TTS? Or are they made the same?


They're all the same. 

The block isn't your issue.


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

I'm going to pull off the oil pan and oil pump off tonight if I have some time after work. Pictures of damage to follow.


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

Ouch.. Sorry to see this after all that work. Looks like the connecting rod failed.


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

Audi_O said:


> I was told that when redoing a head on a high mileage vehicle will put more pressure on the bottom end.


:facepalm:


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

SilverSquirrel said:


> Ouch.. Sorry to see this after all that work. Looks like the connecting rod failed.


I changed them with IE drop in rods.


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

Not for the faint hearted 

......

Beware

......


Holys***


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

Is it me or does it look like the piston failed? You reused OEM pistons correct? Maybe one of them had stress fractures from where the valve hit.


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

crew219 said:


> Is it me or does it look like the piston failed? You reused OEM pistons correct? Maybe one of them had stress fractures from where the valve hit.


Yea they are oem pistons but from another car. I didn't want to use mine. I didn't see any damage on these when I cleaned them and installed the rings.


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## majic (Mar 10, 2005)

Yeah -- that wrist pin is still intact... it looks like that piston disintegrated. But damn... that is so odd


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## wishntoboutside (Mar 11, 2002)

Oh damp beyond bummed to see. I think you need to start something on kickstarter or something. This has been a great thread and I want to see a happy ending.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

A new engine could be better than a rebuild?


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Wow dude that is nuts. Very unfortunate after all the hard work you were doing up until this point..


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> A new engine could be better than a rebuild?


Can't reuse any of that . . . block, pistons, rods, crank, oil pump assembly . . . all dead. I'd be very surprised if the head escaped without damage.


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

I'm not giving up. I've put too much money and time making it the way I like it. I'm looking for a block to buy locally to rebuild. I don't know if I should get another oem piston with one IE rod or get a new set of pistons and new rods but that's going to cost about $1000. I also need to get another crankshaft. I've past the point of getting another engine. The head is still good and strong. It looked like the rod pulled down the piston all the way because it even broke the little stopper that stops the piston from going down too far if that's even possible I don't know. It's in too many pieces to figure out what went wrong. Going junkyard shopping on Saturday to see what I can find.


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## BeeAlk (Jun 3, 2013)

Audi_O said:


> I'm not giving up. I've put too much money and time making it the way I like it. I'm looking for a block to buy locally to rebuild. I don't know if I should get another oem piston with one IE rod or get a new set of pistons and new rods but that's going to cost about $1000. I also need to get another crankshaft. I've past the point of getting another engine. The head is still good and strong. It looked like the rod pulled down the piston all the way because it even broke the little stopper that stops the piston from going down too far if that's even possible I don't know. It's in too many pieces to figure out what went wrong. Going junkyard shopping on Saturday to see what I can find.


I really like your attitude towards all of this. :thumbup:


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

crew219 said:


> Can't reuse any of that . . . block, pistons, rods, crank, oil pump assembly . . . all dead. I'd be very surprised if the head escaped without damage.


From just visual inspection from the bottom only cylinder 4 was damaged. Oil pump looked ok just the side plastic piece was broken. Need a new crank for sure. I hope the head is still ok.


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

Audi_O said:


> From just visual inspection from the bottom only cylinder 4 was damaged. Oil pump looked ok just the side plastic piece was broken. Need a new crank for sure. I hope the head is still ok.


I would not reuse that oil pump with that amount of debris in the pan.


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## JaxACR (Dec 6, 2007)

Well I guess this gives you a good excuse to go to a 1.8T oil pump and balance shaft delete! 

Sorry to see this after all your hard work though.


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

JaxACR said:


> Well I guess this gives you a good excuse to go to a 1.8T oil pump and balance shaft delete!
> 
> Sorry to see this after all your hard work though.


I was thinking about doing that but I read that it causes a lot more vibration. I don't know if I want that.


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## JaxACR (Dec 6, 2007)

Audi_O said:


> I was thinking about doing that but I read that it causes a lot more vibration. I don't know if I want that.


Pair it with a Fluidamper perhaps?


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## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

Was this engine properly blueprinted and assembled? Most DIY engine builds fail right away because there is just so much knowledge required to build a motor to a perfect standard.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

jbrehm said:


> Was this engine properly blueprinted and assembled? Most DIY engine builds fail right away because there is just so much knowledge required to build a motor to a perfect standard.


whats blueprinted? eace:


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## majic (Mar 10, 2005)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> whats blueprinted? eace:


Mmmmmm... "Blueprinting" strictly speaking just means measuring and documenting tolerances. Such as it is -- checking and documenting provides evidence that you looked at and corrected things that are out of spec if necessary. 

First engine I built... Did not check the bore from teaching shop, and I used straight files to grind the rings, and no plastigauge haha. Looking back on it I'm incredibly lucky it didn't grenade.

But yeah -- definitely need to check bores, radial clearances, torque torque torque with reliable gauges and wrenches, and if something is off, or even gives you an I cling of suspicion that it might cause problems down the road... Fix it now, because it will only cost more later.


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

majic said:


> Mmmmmm... "Blueprinting" strictly speaking just means measuring and documenting tolerances. Such as it is -- checking and documenting provides evidence that you looked at and corrected things that are out of spec if necessary.
> 
> First engine I built... Did not check the bore from teaching shop, and I used straight files to grind the rings, and no plastigauge haha. Looking back on it I'm incredibly lucky it didn't grenade.
> 
> But yeah -- definitely need to check bores, radial clearances, torque torque torque with reliable gauges and wrenches, and if something is off, or even gives you an I cling of suspicion that it might cause problems down the road... Fix it now, because it will only cost more later.


Thx.. I would swap the engine rather to a complete rebuild.


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## Audi_O (May 10, 2010)

majic said:


> Mmmmmm... "Blueprinting" strictly speaking just means measuring and documenting tolerances. Such as it is -- checking and documenting provides evidence that you looked at and corrected things that are out of spec if necessary.
> 
> First engine I built... Did not check the bore from teaching shop, and I used straight files to grind the rings, and no plastigauge haha. Looking back on it I'm incredibly lucky it didn't grenade.
> 
> But yeah -- definitely need to check bores, radial clearances, torque torque torque with reliable gauges and wrenches, and if something is off, or even gives you an I cling of suspicion that it might cause problems down the road... Fix it now, because it will only cost more later.


I might have pushed it a little hard before letting everything settle in. It worked fine the first day no problems at all. Started up easy and idled smooth. One thing I noticed is that it would booth over 25 psi at wot, my boost gauge only goes to 25. And it would miss fire on cylinder 4 and that's the one that gave out. This time I'm gonna triple check everything. 


2006_A3_2.0T said:


> Thx.. I would swap the engine rather to a complete rebuild.


I could have done that but I want strong parts.


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## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

Judging from your response, and posts in this thread, I'd guess that you didn't even do basic blueprinting. If that's not the case, I apologize in advance. Without knowing _exactly_ what you're doing, you're playing with fire - as you already found out once. To build an engine properly, you need to learn about cleanliness, machining, materials, the (at least basic) physics of bearings and fasteners and hydrodynamics, how to properly operate micrometers and calipers and dial gauges, and proper torquing methodology. Sure, you can toss an engine together with some Plastigauge and a crappy torque wrench, but the odds of that engine surviving to OEM standards (operating hours, climate ranges, engine loads, etc.) is _drastically_ reduced compared to a properly assembled one.

The following books are both pretty decent for quick-learning guides: Engine Builder's Handbook, Engine Blueprinting.


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