# 87 QSW revival



## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

hey folks. I finally started working on my 87 syncro wagon I picked up a while back. got her up on the lift to diagnose things, I need a new steering rack and would also like to replace the complete tie rods but I cannot find the inners anywhere. I also need to replace the center bearing on the drive shaft, or am I going to be replacing the entire driveshaft? As for the steering rack, best price I have found is a reman unit on ebay. is it a good enough rack or is there a better one to be found?


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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

huck731 said:


> hey folks. I finally started working on my 87 syncro wagon I picked up a while back. got her up on the lift to diagnose things, I need a new steering rack and would also like to replace the complete tie rods but I cannot find the inners anywhere. I also need to replace the center bearing on the drive shaft, or am I going to be replacing the entire driveshaft? As for the steering rack, best price I have found is a reman unit on ebay. is it a good enough rack or is there a better one to be found?


The tie rod assemblies can be found here:
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Quantum/Steering/220/2

These are a breeze to change out. I think I did mine in about 30 minutes or so.

The center support bearing is available here:
https://store.034motorsport.com/audi-4kq-80-90-coupe-quattro-driveshaft-support-center-bearing.html

When you do the center support bearing you may want to consider doing the U joint as well because to change the center support bearing you'll have to split the driveshaft which requires disassembly of the U joint in the middle. At the very least for like $20 it's worth it to buy it and have it before you star the job, even if you don't end up using it. The U joint can be found at the link below.. I know it says it's for a Suzuki, but the parts cross reference between the two cars.. It's the same part.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=387762&cc=1418217&jsn=12

As far as the rack is concerned.. I'm not really sure that the one on ebay would be good or bad.. I know on germanautoparts.com you can get a remanufactured one, but it's $460 with the core charge!!! There are plenty of old Audis you could source a used one from too.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

Thanks. I thought I already checked GAP for the tie rods. I guess not. Glad we know of parts that cross reference!

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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

is the audi 5000 rack and tie rods the same? if the audi rack is the same, I might get one of those from rock auto, tie rod cross reference would be good for future knowledge.


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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

huck731 said:


> is the audi 5000 rack and tie rods the same? if the audi rack is the same, I might get one of those from rock auto, tie rod cross reference would be good for future knowledge.


I think the racks are a little different and the tie rods may be as well, probably longer because the 5000 is a bigger chassis.. Not 100% sure though. I know for a fact that an Audi 4000, URQuattro, or Audi 80/90 rack will work in a QSW and all the tie rods interchange.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

Right on.

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## Resourcerer (Jul 6, 2012)

If interested, I still have NOS unopened rear BOGE shocks.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

might be interested. need to see how she drives first. Also debating on going air ride. I know the guy who developed air for out chassis' and although a prime stock example would be awesome, so would air.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

so here I am trying to get the steering rack out. I have the 4 bolts off, lines disconnected (at the pump, they are pretty crusty by the rack.) I cannot find how to access the steering gear so I can disconnect that and remove the rack from the car. anyone have tips or pictures?


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

got the rack out on Monday. got the busted tap out today with my new tap extractor set. Tomorrow, the rack gets re-installed. I hope to have the shifter adjusted by Saturday. I only have 3.5 hours a day to work on it since I am doing all of the work at the dealership I work for.


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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

huck731 said:


> got the rack out on Monday. got the busted tap out today with my new tap extractor set. Tomorrow, the rack gets re-installed. I hope to have the shifter adjusted by Saturday. I only have 3.5 hours a day to work on it since I am doing all of the work at the dealership I work for.


Nice, glad you got it out. Doing the shifter adjustment is pretty easy on these. I mean the one rod is a bit of a pain to get to, but it's such a nice simple set-up.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

Can you align these with a cassette tape like you can on a mk1?

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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

huck731 said:


> Can you align these with a cassette tape like you can on a mk1?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk


It's way simpler than that on these transmissions minus the lack of space. There is one adjuster rod that goes across the top of the transmission with rubber ball sockets on each end. There is a good chance that it is rusty beyond the point of being adjusted depending where you live and how much winter driving the car has seen.

If it is you can replace it all with more solid linkage parts from McMaster Carr. I have all the part numbers. If it isn't you just break the two lock nuts and turn the center hex section one direction or the other and it will adjust it. The other adjustment is in the cabin with the base of the shifter. 

Other than that there are no adjustments I know of, but there is one bushing that has a tendency to disintegrate over time and it's usually in bad shape or not there at all making it difficult to get into certain gears and if that bushing is gone or badly worn, it does not matter how you adjust anything, it will never be right until you replace that bushing.


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

dougkehl said:


> ...but there is one bushing that has a tendency to disintegrate over time and it's usually in bad shape or not there at all making it difficult to get into certain gears and if that bushing is gone or badly worn, it does not matter how you adjust anything, it will never be right until you replace that bushing.


 And, that bushing is made by 034: 
https://store.034motorsport.com/shifter-bushing-016-oem-replica.html 

+1 on building a new shifter link w/ parts from McMaster-Carr. Cheap, simple, and eliminates the "oh, carp, the linkage popped off again!" problem. :laugh: 



cuppie said:


> To give credit where it's due: needed parts info was found from this page:
> http://forums.quattroworld.com/4000/msgs/52336.phtml
> Get your parts from McMaster-Carr (plus two M8x1.25 nuts from, well, wherever.)
> For searchability: you'll need two 9416K79 rod ends (10mm ball socket, w/ M8 inside threads), and one 93275A035 (M8x1.25 threaded rod, 130mm (ish.) Shorten threaded rod to 110mm. Assemble, and set to the same length (center-to-center) as old part.
> ...


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

well, turns out out german auto parts is taking a ****, that and the steering racks are backordered. closest thing I can find is a rack re-seal kit for an audi 4000. Seems like it may be the best option at this time.


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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

I wouldn't hesitate to go with a reseal kit. Next best option is try to find a non leaky used rack from another QSW or even a fwd Quantum or 4000. If you wanted to spend an absurd amount of money (approx $700+shipping from Europe) and wait a month you could get a new one right from Volkswagen..


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

dougkehl said:


> I think the racks are a little different and the tie rods may be as well, probably longer because the 5000 is a bigger chassis.. Not 100% sure though. I know for a fact that an Audi 4000, URQuattro, or Audi 80/90 rack will work in a QSW and all the tie rods interchange.


I just want to make sure I order the proper stuff. you mentioned that the audi 4000 tie rods are the same, but every parts place says they will not work on a quantum syncro? are the parts sites just not cross referencing them or am I missing something?


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

the difference seem to be in the left control arm.


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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

huck731 said:


> I just want to make sure I order the proper stuff. you mentioned that the audi 4000 tie rods are the same, but every parts place says they will not work on a quantum syncro? are the parts sites just not cross referencing them or am I missing something?


They are 100% identical. I have a set of late 4000 tie rod assemblies in my QSW (the early 4000s have a goofy right side tie rod, but it works as far as I know). The biggest difference is that a left side QSW tie rod has a funny bend in it.. I'm not sure why, looks like for clearance of some other fixture in the bay. The Audi 4000 tie rods are both straight, mirror images of one another. The right side tie rod for a QSW and later 4000s are the same part numbers.

So the part numbers you will want are:

QSW left tie rod: 321419801G
Audi 4000 left tie rod: 811419801E
Audi 4000/QSW right tie rod: 811419802K

Any combination of those part numbers will work fine.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

Ya. I just ordered them from rock auto and they where the same part number.

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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

Nice :thumbup::thumbup:


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

New tie rods came. the body of the inner tie rods seem to be some high strength polymer instead of a steal tube. they are MAS brand. any experience with them or this type of construction?


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

hey doug, saw in your build thread you purchased the 034 short shifter. Is it worth the money? looks like it simplifies that area a lot.


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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

huck731 said:


> New tie rods came. the body of the inner tie rods seem to be some high strength polymer instead of a steal tube. they are MAS brand. any experience with them or this type of construction?


That is interesting... do you mean the part that the bolt goes through? I know the inner ends on mine had some superduty plastic-like rubbery stuff to aid as a very stiff bushing, but other than that it was all steel. Even the part that surrounds it from what I remember, but I can check today because I'll be tooling around in my engine bay this afternoon!



huck731 said:


> hey doug, saw in your build thread you purchased the 034 short shifter. Is it worth the money? looks like it simplifies that area a lot.


I think it was worth the money. The only draw back to it is that you can't use the full range of adjustment without modifying the tunnel a little bit, but I've got to say once I swapped the stock unit out for this in addition to a new shifter bushing on the shift rod it was incredible. I like the feel of the shifter in my QSW better than both my 16v rabbit convertible and my daily driver subaru legacy. 

I have mine adjusted to give me a short a throw as possible without having to modify the tunnel. It could still be a little shorter, but as stated, I love it!

And speaking of my build thread.. I should probably update that lol.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

Not the ends. But the tube body is polymer. Here are some pictures of the quantum.









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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

Hmmm that is strange. Mine are steel. I checked last night. 

And good lord that thing looks clean. I would have given one of my kidneys to have a canvas that clean to start with! How many miles are on that thing?


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

Over 300k. I have just about every reciept from work done over the years. Best part is I only traded an 84 honda magna that needed carb work for it.

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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

Do you happen to have pictures of how the inner tie rods bokt to that bracket. I'm starting to think they where on wrong when i got the car.

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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

huck731 said:


> Over 300k. I have just about every reciept from work done over the years. Best part is I only traded an 84 honda magna that needed carb work for it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk





huck731 said:


> Do you happen to have pictures of how the inner tie rods bokt to that bracket. I'm starting to think they where on wrong when i got the car.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk


Wow that's nuts!! That's a great deal. Really nice that you got the receipts too. Also, I will see if I have one. If not I'll try to get one. Currently the car is at my friends shop getting wet sanded and polished so if I have some time, I'll swing by and snap a picture!


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

had a local hydraulic hose place make a new clutch flex line for me. got that installed as well as the passenger tie rod. Still needs an alignment but that's the easy part. I think I will bleed the clutch again when I bleed/flush the brakes. The vacuum bleeder at work makes that a sinch. All in all yesterday was a good day as I finally drove the wagon with a functioning clutch and not janky steering.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

soo upon further investigation since I have started to get things buttoned up. I noticed that both bolts for the front motor mount are missing. can someone tell me the bolt specs so I can go get some please. I also still need to know what the hell to use for power steering fluid.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

power steering work, just have a leaking o-ring on the high pressure line I will fix tonight. I will also be replacing the thermostat and be doing a second cooling system flush before I finish that system. any reccomendations on if I should use G11 or just switch to G12? one I have to order online, one I can go 3 blocks and get from the dealer.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

well **** me running. decided she was good to drive home yesterday, got halfway there and she overheated. not sure if the new thermostate never opened or if the waterpump isn't working or what. pissed me off.


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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

huck731 said:


> well **** me running. decided she was good to drive home yesterday, got halfway there and she overheated. not sure if the new thermostate never opened or if the waterpump isn't working or what. pissed me off.


Have you driven it at all before? It could be a couple things, like the temp sensor being bad, voltage regulator in the cluster being bad or the temp gauge being bad (I just had this happen in my QSW). Obviously if it isn't any of those things, then it likely did get hot. Hopefully it was just a fluke and was an electrical problem with the gauged just indicating hot. 

Like I said, I had a different cluster in my car recently and the temp gauge went sour in it one day while driving and the temp appeared to rise and rise and rise. So I got it home and got a laser thermometer and put it in the car, I drove it until the temp gauge was nearly pinned at max and I pulled over and checked the heat coming out of the head where it would be hottest where the temp sensor it. It was 202-206*F and while it may be a little warm to some people, it's not completely out range and it was on a 90* day with no radiator ducting at all. I put my old cluster in with a known to be good voltage regulator and temp gauge and that was that, it showed proper operating temps at idle, around town driving and on the highway.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

my temp gauge on the cluster doesn't work. it blinks for low coolant level, but I have to tap/punch the cluster for the temp needle to move, then it reads low as is was in an acceptable spot for temp yet when I did get it home after putting more water in the system (friggin dumped g13 all over the side of the road) she was hot again when I parked it. I did make it about 10-15 miles before she popped and the test drives I had done previously I had no issues, albeit, they where not as far. It does still have the original sensors in it as the new ones just came in today. I also ordered a new waterpump just to cover that base. 

edit: any tips on bleeding the air out of these systems?


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

so I drained and refilled the cooling system, did the same thing, but now I have a new coolant temp sensor, seemed to stay just on the high side of the coolant level bulb. I do need to hard wire the fan to a switch as the fan sensor plug is junk. (one of the end wires is broke right at the plug). I have a new waterpump waiting to go it, I just need to find a crank lock tool unless there is a trick to doing it without the tool. after reading dougs post on coolinig issues, I am curious if I might also be missing some of the air duct work. All I have is the piece of plastic that seperates the passenger side of the radiator from the engine block.


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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

huck731 said:


> so I drained and refilled the cooling system, did the same thing, but now I have a new coolant temp sensor, seemed to stay just on the high side of the coolant level bulb. I do need to hard wire the fan to a switch as the fan sensor plug is junk. (one of the end wires is broke right at the plug). I have a new waterpump waiting to go it, I just need to find a crank lock tool unless there is a trick to doing it without the tool. after reading dougs post on coolinig issues, I am curious if I might also be missing some of the air duct work. All I have is the piece of plastic that seperates the passenger side of the radiator from the engine block.


Yeah at idle, just above the bulb is normal. Also, the crank locking tool is pretty important. The bolt that holds the big pulley on and the lower timing belt drive sprocket is tightened to like 270ft lbs. or something like that if I'm remembering correctly. But you can change the water pump without removing this big pulley. I did this like a month ago. I just brought the engine to TDC and slacked the water pump which tightens the timing belt and pulled the timing belt off the cam sprocket and then I was able to remove the water pump.. I also don't have any timing belt covers on which may have aided in my ability to remove the water pump in that fashion. 

Also, my previous over heating issues were just a fluke like I mentioned before where I had a bad temp gauge/voltage regulator in my cluster which indicated a high reading even at idle and catastrophically hot while driving. I swapped that out and my temps are good now, but I'm realizing how important the ducting is for highway driving. Around town it's not too important even in 85 degree weather, but on the highway it gets a little warm for sure, but never overheats. I also forgot that before painting my car, I always had a ducting and I swapped to my aluminum radiator and it didn't fit so I never put it back in.. I threw a few pieces of cardboard together in the original shape of the ducting and put it in the car. It made a very noticeable difference on the highway. 

As someone suggested to me, that I needed ducting, I now understand how important it is and I will 100% recommend that you make up a complete set of duct work unless your lucky enough to find all the ducting in good condition!


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

Can you post some pictures of what the complete ductwork looks like?

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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

I don't think that I have pictures of my 'custom ducts' - but, I can look. 
In the meantime, that frame still exists in ETKA (even if the parts themselves are NLA): 
*Fan cowl, Quantum Syncro*

Corrugated plastic (like, sign material) works. Very nice, if you have a body shop or dealer that's inclined to save some garbage for you, is the textile material that BMW uses for underbody panels these days. 
Easy to cut (a jigsaw works great!), easy to drill, flexible. And, it's black!


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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

This is the best I can do, mine is just cardboard and is meant to suit my new radiator which I modified from a honda civic so it fits a bit different. 

But this is the volkswagen diagram illustrating the ducting, fan shroud, radiator, ect. I will say the ducts don't have to be perfect and anything is better than nothing.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

Well I think that might be 95% of my issue. All I have is the plastic four piece number 16 I don't have any of the above under shrouds or the actual fan shroud.

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## Resourcerer (Jul 6, 2012)

huck731 said:


> Well I think that might be 95% of my issue. All I have is the plastic four piece number 16 I don't have any of the above under shrouds or the actual fan shroud.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk


I've got a repairable worn bottom shroud, #13 and maybe other pieces. PM me with your shipping address and I'll just send what I have. If they work, keep them. If not, you can be tortured by the decision of whether to toss or hoard


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

that's super cool of you man. I sent you a message with that info.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

thanks to Resourcerer, I have the original ducting pieces. unfortunately I cannot make heads or tails of how they go in. I will keep them for originality and work on figuring out how the hell they need to be installed, until then, I will use plastic cut to fit so I can start driving the car. I am getting so close, I can already smell the 30 year old vw nostalgia.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

long overdue update. I haven't really done any work on it since my last post up until yesterday. I was planning on installing a new headgasket and such. got her into the garage and did a pressure test to find compression is still acceptable. in order from front to back 1:130 2:130 3: 150 4:125 5: 130. it fires right up and runs good (especially after I put new plugs in it as well). ended up only replacing the water pump and timing belt. also wired in an aftermarket front mount radiator fan, seems to have done the trick. unless something comes up, I think either the coolant system had an air bubble or it was because it had no functioning radiator fan. registering it this week so I can hopefully get some miles on it before Euro District in Jeffersonville, indian in april.


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

Yeah - the lack of a working fan will make that (or any) engine overheat with the quickness.... 

If you haven't yet done so, getting passable air ducts in place makes a considerable difference, especially for "driving at higher speeds" (e.g. freeway driving), especially when it's hot out. 
That's a wee little radiator, and, without the ducts in place, it's really hard to feed it enough air to cool it.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

for more updates and to see pictures of the progress, follow dirty_rabbit84 on Instagram.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

cuppie said:


> Yeah - the lack of a working fan will make that (or any) engine overheat with the quickness....
> 
> If you haven't yet done so, getting passable air ducts in place makes a considerable difference, especially for "driving at higher speeds" (e.g. freeway driving), especially when it's hot out.
> That's a wee little radiator, and, without the ducts in place, it's really hard to feed it enough air to cool it.


working on making some new ducts using the stuff I was given as a template. I was also debating on wiring the factory fan into the switch for the pusher fan to give it a push/pull effect surrounding the radiator.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

ok so new exhaust is on, been driving around town with no issues. drove it 20 miles hwy yesterday and when I got the my destination she was getting warm. I will be making shrouds now. I was able to find a route home that allowed my to drive at lower speeds. 50 and under the entire way home and I didn't have any cooling issues, the needle stayed just a tad bit above the low coolant level light. now that I can hear what the car is trying to tell me, I can tell it needs at least one wheel bearing, sounds like the passenger rear. I also have this odd higher pitched whining noise so I think I will be replacing all diff fluids and trans fluid.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

been keeping it off the hwy, driving contry roads to work. have not had any cooling issues. damn thing drives great!!! unfortunetly my powersteering pump just **** the bed. Anyone swap these to manual steering before?


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

the new radiator cap came in today. it is a newer design from the original. Surprisingly, there is still availability from VW on these still. If anyone is interested I can post pictures on my cap later. I could also get you good pricing on a new cap from the factory. (I'm a VW parts guy)


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

Ground control to Major Tom? is anybody out there? vacuum bled the cooling system, she handled the hwy amazingl. actually ran a bit cooler than it was before. unfortunetly, when I got into town on ym way home from work the clutch flex line blew at the first stop light. it was my fault, I had to have a new one custom made last summer and it was a bit longer than I needed. I though I had it routed in a way that it would not interfere with anything, welp......I was wrong, it moved and was rubbing on the cv axle. new, shorter, line is being made today and will go in tonight.


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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

huck731 said:


> Ground control to Major Tom? is anybody out there?


There are very few of us out there! Lol. 

Not sure if you ever got to making the shrouds, but I'm glad you got her running a bit cooler down the highway! I know the difference having a good bleed on the cooling system can make, you'll be even more surprised once you get the shrouds on there if you haven't yet. For the longest time I only had three thick pieces of cardboard ziptied together for both sides and the top and even that made a substantial difference in how it cooled. 

Sorry to hear about the hydraulic hose for the clutch going south! That's a bummer, but at least it wasn't the slave cylinder. Getting the retaining pin out can be a pain in the rear to say the least haha.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

I am going to work on shrouds tonight before I leave for euro district. I am a license plate collector and it just so happens that license plates are the length needed to go from radiator to core support, so that's a cheap and easy job. I will also be putting in the new clutch line tonight and getting that bled out. All because I am somewhat insane and am driving the car 430 miles to a car show!


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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

No more crazy than me driving my mk1 rabbit convertible which runs on VP C12 race fuel which costs $15 a gallon 210 miles to a car show! haha plus driving that far can be an adventure.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

damn, that's an expensive drive!!


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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

Ain't not!!! but totally worth it! but I'd much rather drive my QSW 200-450 miles just from a comfort stand point. Plus you can sleep in the back!


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

well, she performed excellently on the trip. 892 miles round trip plus whatever driving I did while down there. she did run warm once I got into warmer air temps, but no issues outside of a leaking oil pan gasket. 23.4 mpg on the way down doing between 55-60 21.6 on the return trip with the spare tire on the roof and doing between 70-75. decided that I will be putting in a lower temp t-stat, wiring the factory fan to run on the same switch that the aftermarket fan runs, shrouds will be made soon out of old license plates. I also spoke with my buddy who runs CKW2 and decided that we will be putting it on air ride in 2019/2020. I also spoke with Sal from S&P auto and I will be sending him radiator measurements so he can make a new, more efficient radiator. I also need to get the front seats re-upholstered, the foam is completely shot!


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

also thinking about performing a 20v non-turbo swap with megasquirt so I can ditch the CIS system.


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## Resourcerer (Jul 6, 2012)

*Got Seats*



huck731 said:


> I also need to get the front seats re-upholstered, the foam is completely shot!


Hi Huck: 
I have a nice pair of front seats sitting in a dry basement. PM if interested.
Regards


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

Not much to report right now. she has been driving great. New rear wheel bearing goes in today. then I can track down the next noise. found out either my dizzy cap or ecu is getting water in it. gonna replace the oil pan gasket since that seems to be the cause of the oil leak.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

replaced the RR wheel bearing, it was weird, the job went textbook perfect.......car has over 300k.....baffeling. new 034motorsports center support bearing comes in tomorrow. also in the process of replacing the original speakers. still looking for the correct oem tape deck head unit to put in the car.


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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

Funny you say that about the wheel bearing. I did all 4 on my car at about 204,000 miles and it was exactly the same thing. Everything just came apart. No broken bolts, no needing to get out the oxygen acetylene torch to heat things. Totally awesome.

And good luck with the radio and finding one that has the code for it.. I'm fortunate enough to have a working original radio and to have the code, but my tape deck doesn't work and that's the biggest bummer to me because I still listen to cassette tapes! I'll keep my eye out for one if I see a quantum at any local pick-n-pulls.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

Am I correct in thinking that all 4 wheel bearing are the same kit? or are they different front to back?


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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

100% correct. They are all the same and so are the hubs if you decided to replace them.


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## lafermedavid (Sep 25, 2010)

*QSW 1.6td*

hey really enjoyed reading your adventures in restoring your quatum,will continue to follow.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

Hey, thanks. It's been slow lately, just been driving it. I'm starting to get into the more expensive stuff that may have to wait until after my wedding next august. but I will continue to update when stuff happens. I also need to get more pictures uploaded.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

ok, I need suspension suggestions. I'm talking shock/struts, springs, mounts, bearing, stops. the whole deal. any good sources for cheap (planning on going air in a couple years) struts. do the audi 90/mk4 bearings work? what can I use...


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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

huck731 said:


> ok, I need suspension suggestions. I'm talking shock/struts, springs, mounts, bearing, stops. the whole deal. any good sources for cheap (planning on going air in a couple years) struts. do the audi 90/mk4 bearings work? what can I use...


Are you trying to lower it a little in the process or are you trying to just keep it stock? 

This is what I have, granted I am lowered on a custom set of coilovers. Bilstein 4000 sport struts up front, KYB AGX compression adjustable shocks from a Mitsubishi GSX Eclipse (AWD), Eibach springs, MK1 polyurethane rear upper shock mounts, and finally Audi small chassis front strut mounts (80/90, 4000, UrQ, S2, RS2).

I know this is all hodgepodge but it works really well for performance handling and lowering about 3 inches.



But if you're trying to keep it stock, just look for any small chassis audi stuff for the front of the car. It's all identical from the mounts to the struts to the bushings to the bump stops. 

The rear is where you will have a problem because there's almost nothing available for the rears of the AWD cars. You can throw mk2 rear shocks in there and they will work, granted be valved a little funny for this car and maybe a tad long (.5"-1"), or you can use Mitsubishi GSX Eclipse (AWD) from like 1990 to 1994. They are the right length and are valved correctly, you just have to cut the lower coil off the stock spring to accommodate the slightly different spring perch and make a bushing that fits in the bottom mount which I have all the dimensions for if you want to go that way. The upper mounts are the same as a MK1 rabbit in the rear.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

Good info there Doug. I talk to my mk1 (ckw2) and we came to the conclusion that I'm better off just going air right away due to the overall cost of just stock(ish) suspension. is rock auto going to be my best source for front/rear control arms and axles?


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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

Yeah. Rock Auto should be fine for the axles. I've had no issues with the one I put in my car from there, plus they're cheap which is nice.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

welp, blew the upper radiator hose 3 weeks ago, as I was leaving for 3 weeks of military training. I was able to temp fix it with universal fit hose. Will the audi 4k hose kit from 034 motorsports fit, or do I need to find a vehicle specific hose kit. I was hoping to go silicone.


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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

huck731 said:


> welp, blew the upper radiator hose 3 weeks ago, as I was leaving for 3 weeks of military training. I was able to temp fix it with universal fit hose. Will the audi 4k hose kit from 034 motorsports fit, or do I need to find a vehicle specific hose kit. I was hoping to go silicone.


The coolant inlets and outlets are the same on the block, head and radiator and it's all positioned the same with the exception of the upper radiator hose connection being like an inch closer to the engine on a 4000 than a quantum.. It should work fine though.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

dougkehl said:


> The coolant inlets and outlets are the same on the block, head and radiator and it's all positioned the same with the exception of the upper radiator hose connection being like an inch closer to the engine on a 4000 than a quantum.. It should work fine though.


sounds good to me, thanks.


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## tornadoredcabby (Feb 14, 2002)

Have a link to the 034 coolant hose kit? Wondering if that would work for my VW Fox. TIA


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

does your fox have an audi 5 cylinder?


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## 8587qsw (Sep 12, 2006)

Cuppie and Doug,

Do you happen to have a picture of this shift linkage substitution for the QSW and 4KQ tranny?

That 034 Motorsport bushing is nothing but garbage. My QSW is on a second one and already disintegrated after barely driving for 19 miles; the first bushing lasted about 16 miles.  

Thanks in advance.

-Louis


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

8587qsw said:


> Cuppie and Doug,
> 
> Do you happen to have a picture of this shift linkage substitution for the QSW and 4KQ tranny?
> 
> ...


Took a minute to find, but... This post: https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthr...ntum-today&p=81034708&viewfull=1#post81034708

I'm surprised that you're having issues with the 034 shift rod bushing. Mine was awesome - Had it in there for 3 years, before I sold the car.


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## 8587qsw (Sep 12, 2006)

Cup,

I realized the fix referred to here is the "dog bone" link, but the problem I'm having is with the bushing that fits into the shifter ball on the tranny.

And yes. The 034 bushings I've gotten have been nothing but garbage.

So now I'm trying to figure out what to replace with it. Ideas are welcome.

Maybe Doug could build something for us. 





























Louis


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

8587qsw said:


> Cup,
> 
> I realized the fix referred to here is the "dog bone" link, but the problem I'm having is with the bushing that fits into the shifter ball on the tranny.
> 
> ...


maybe try a quality 3d printed version? just reverse engineer an 034 one.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

Ok, im in a pickle. Im replacing the carrier bearing, and i need a new u-joint. Anyone know any compatible u-joints? 

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

Huck, go back to page 1 of the thread, post 2.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

thanks, I knew it was on here, but the tapatalk app was being wierd. got the joint and it seems to be working perfectly. 

Now for the next issue. CV axles.......where do you guys get them? I tried auto parts store, no luck, I tried raxles, no luck yet unless I can verify the ones on the car are OEM. (unlikely though at over 300k)


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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

I've gotten them from rockauto before. The fronts are the same whether it's a fwd or syncro model. The rears are syncro only, but the left and right are the same. I think audi small chassis (b2 & b3) axles will work because they essentially share the same chassis with minor changes, but don't quote me on that lol.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

I don't know why I haven't checked there. thanks for the reminder.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

anyone have a good source for new steering racks? mine is getting really bad. or is there a manual rack option I could "easily" swap over. every time I check rock auto, the racks are out of stock.


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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

I believe you can swap a fox non power steering rack in (good luck finding one of those too lol). Next best option is getting a used power unit one from a B2 or B3 chassis Audi. I've seen a few on ebay, but they seem pricey and I could not speak for their quality.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

any idea what years fox had manual steering?


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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

I think all of them did. I'm not sure I've seen one with power steering. I know for a fact my 88 fox is manual steering.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

A manual rack swap is in the future, just not sure when......I've been having issues replacing the driver frotn axle. the surtrack brand axle that I got from rock auto was machined wrong on the outer cv join so it doesn't properly fit into the knuckle.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

JFC, so I'm on my third incorrect aftermarket axle (trakmotive brand). I've been ordering from Rock Auto, the first 2 axles where AD-8048. I ordered the first one, didnt realize the outer c vhub was worng untill I attempted to test drive. sent back figuring manufacturing defect, got back the same exact issue. ok, emailed trakmotive they say to use an AD-8046 which is for an audi 4q/fwd auto trans Quantum. that ****in axle is 1 inch to long. 

update: **** it, I just bought one of the last remaining OEM axles from vw.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

well, got the OEM axle installed last night. all is right in the world once again. next up is lower control arms. does anyone offer a tubular arm or anything like that?


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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

huck731 said:


> well, got the OEM axle installed last night. all is right in the world once again. next up is lower control arms. does anyone offer a tubular arm or anything like that?


nice. sorry it was such an ordeal with the axle. at least you got it sorted! 034 motorsport might still offer them for the UrQ and i know AKMotorsports offers them for the UrQ and other small chassis cars which are all the same control arm. i think there are a couple others but those are two i know of for sure.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

I looked at 034 already, they don't have c-arms, but they do have delrin and track density bushings that I may opt to go with. I checked out ak a while back, but I'm not so sure the heim joints are good for daily use.


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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

Im not surprised 034 no longer has them. I'd probably opt for their delrin/track density control arm bushings at least because it'll still be better than stock and wont cost you at least $1,000 because almost nobody offers tubular control arms that don't come in a set of 4 for quattro based cars.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

did a small lighting update to see how the car would accept LEDs adn installed LED turn signals as well as an updated flasher relay designed for them. WELL WORTH THE MONEY. I got my stuff on superbrightleds.com as winter nears it's time to buy a winter beater but I still plan on at least installing new control arm bushings, if I can manage it I am also thinking aobut the 034 billit sumbframe "bushings". but I'm not so sure how those will react to everyday driving.


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

Huck, 
I did the 034 solid subframe mounts when I had my QSW. Huge improvement over the >3-decades-old decrepit rubber mounts. Steering was a LOT more predictable. 
Very streetable, IMO. My only issue was, ah, more noticeable vibration at idle, when the engine was cold. Got better when the engine warmed up (and smoothed out.)


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

Thanks for the input Cuppie. that pretty much took care of all the possible issues with streetability I currently had. guess I'll get them.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

well I'm currently in the process of replacing all by subframe bushingsand control arm bushings. 034 aluminum subframe bushings, 034 delrin control arm bushings, 034 front snub mount, and new TRW outer tie rod ends. all ordered from FCP Euro except for the subframe bushings and snub mount. now I am also doing sway bar end link bushings (can't find a decent kit though) and verkline street density transmission mounts. I'd have the job done today, (well except for the tans mounts and end links) buuuuut my damn impact gun broke so I'm waiting on my matco guy to stop by so he can fix it.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

forgot to add that since I have the subframe off, I'm also replacing the oil pan gasket.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

what are ya'll using for sway bar ling bushings? I'm finding alot of oddly contradictory information.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

soo I got everything put back together, my verkline/ak street density trans mounts came today. unfortunately, when I was test driving it saturday, I blew a brakeline...so yaaaaaaaa.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

Hey yall. Its beem a while. Recently got her back on the road. Drom the subframe and axle work. Bad news. Needs 2 calipers and pads/rotors on all 4 corners. Gonna just do 4 calipers since im there. Reaaaaaly need a new steering rack and i think my front main seal is leaking since i replaced the oil pan seal, unless my oik pan is junk. Als really need to do rear didd service and some outer rear cv axle boots. Mainly i have guage issues i need advice on. So my cluster hasnt worked in a long time. My speedo still works( bouncy and 5 mph fast) and my tach kinda works ( if i turn the lightd on my tach drops 2-3k rpms), my fuel guage doesnt work (bad float? Or what should i look for on that?) But most important, my odometer and trip meter do not function at all. Any suggestions on what to look at to fix the odo/trip?

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

Dead odometers is easy: Near-guarantee that the lead gear went loose, so neither of them can turn. 
Fret not! Replacements are available (and reasonably priced!) from odometergears.com. I've bought from them before - they make some good stuff. :thumbup: 
Bouncy speedo can usually be fixed with a new speedo cable (and, be sure to lube the new one - they're usually shipped 'dry.') 
Speed being 5mph high -that's kinda normal. Stock size tires? When you're replacing the lead gear, you have the opportunity to put the speedo needle on in a slightly different spot, 'fixing' the speed offset. 

Gas gauge: does the temperature gauge work correctly? If so, unplug the level sensor connection (on the pump cover), and ground the wire that feeds the float. Watch the gauge- it should climb to full. If = yes, bad level sender (float.) If not, investigate wiring and cluster. 

You probably also have a flaky ground for the gauge cluster. I say that due to the behavior of the tach.


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

Thanks. I'll give that all a shot!. Any source for throttle cables?

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


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## 8587qsw (Sep 12, 2006)

How did this project go??


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## huck731 (Jun 27, 2009)

wow, didn't realize it had been so long! so I picked up a set of OEM red snowflakes wheels and got them on as well as some new tires. rebuilding the brake system is coming very soon. From my research, it seams I will be converting to the mk3 brake booster and master. The original fuel pump finally died at well over 300k! so I replaced the pump with an NOS pump. but now I have a surging issue starting at around 2800 rpm (indicated). so ya, thats a things, Megasquirt may be on the short list....


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