# Limp Mode, P0722 OBD code, and Vehicle Speed Sensor



## nc_ron (Jan 4, 2008)

I'm posting this because I had no luck at finding information in the forum to assist in solving the problem of our Jetta being in transmission Limp Mode. Limp mode results in the transmission operating only in 1st and 3rd gear, with upshifts at about 4000 rpm.
Our 2001 AEG with 01M automatic transmission went into limp mode and showed OBD code P0722. Bentley describes P0722 as transmission output speed sensor. The weather was bad, my wife was screaming, so I took the car to the dealer. They called and said the car ran fine on a test drive, but still showed a DTC for Vehicle Speed Sensor. I paid them $150 to replace the sensor. 
A couple weeks go by and the car is back into Limp Mode. I start researching it. The 01M has three speed sensors on the transmission. These are identified in the wiring diagram as G22, G38, and G68. G38 and G68 connect through the harness to the Transmission Control Module (TCM). G22 connects to the back of the instrument cluster. My professional VW mechanic, with a shop full of manuals, TSB's, and computers, had replaced the speedo sensor. I went back to the dealer and had this conversation:
*Me:* There are 3 sensors. Two go to the TCM and one goes to the speedometer. The complaint was transmission in limp mode and you replaced the speedometer sensor. I don't think that's right.
*Dealer: *These things are all interconnected. It could be the speedo sensor causing the transmission problem.
*Me:* Then why is it doing it again? Doesn't VAG-COM tell you which sensor is bad?
*Dealer:* We can't tell you anything unless you bring it back in and let us do a diagnosis. That will be $110.
*Me *(_unspoken_): When pigs fly, you ******! 
VW Technical Bulletin C01-99-02 addresses the issue of speed sensors and DTC's. It shows the location of each sensor and identifies it by the wiring diagram "G" number. It also tells which sensor causes each DTC, but it is listing VW DTC's that are not cross-referenced to OBD codes in Bentley. It also implies that the VAG tool shows the wrong sensor for DTC-00281. Bentley also has illustrations in the AT section to identify the sensors by the G number. 
The problem then becomes to determine which of the sensors is associated with the P0722 code. P0722 is "output speed sensor," but nowhere are any of the sensors described with those words. My successful repair would indicate the following:
The G38 sensor, on the center top of the transmission, directly accessible under the battery tray, is apparently the input speed sensor referenced by OBD code P0717. The G22 speedometer sensor is on top of the differential housing, in a silver heat shield behind the engine. The G68 sensor is the output speed sensor referred to by code P0722 and is on top of the transmission, under the mount support bracket. 
Bentley makes the replacement of G68 sound terrible. It is not. Remove the air cleaner housing and battery tray. G68 is out of sight, under the transmission mount support bracket. Support the weight of the transmission on a jack, lifting on the skid plate. The support bracket must be removed. VW says to replace all 4 support bolts (these are the same bolts replaced in a timing belt replacement). Instead of replacing them, before removal I used a Sharpie to make match marks on all 4 bolts. When replacing them I realigned the marks, plus 1/12 turn. If the transmission falls out, I'll be sure to post it.
With the 4 bolts out, lower the transmission about 2 inches to make room to move the support bracket aside. You don't need to get it out of the car, just move it aside so you can get to the speed sensor. Everything from here is simple remove and replace.
Buying the sensor was something of an ordeal. The parts guy brought out the G22 speedo sensor (357 919 149B). If I had not had the Bentley manual and VW TSB with me, I think he would not have believed that the other sensors existed. The G68 output speed sensor has a pigtail harness; the G38 input sensor does not. My G68 is 01M 927 321B. My G38 is 095 927 321B. Check your numbers; the parts guy said there was a G68 number change on later models.
It's now been about 3 months, and everything is good, so I believe this info is right.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

Excellent post. Good info.


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## sqvwjetta (Apr 21, 2010)

*Re: Limp Mode, P0722 OBD code, and Vehicle Speed Sensor (nc_ron)*

99.5 VW JETTA 2.0 AEG 
I had an identical issue (P0722) at 180,000 miles. The G68 ($65) was the issue. Whether it was the sensor or the wiring I do not know. I measured the resistance of all the transmission speed sensors and came up with values very close to 800 ohms. After reading your post I decided to replace the sensor. Hind site if I were to do anything different I would probably have cleaned the contact of the G68 sensor because it had a little (and I mean a fraction) of white residue on the ground terminal of the plug. 10,000 miles before I had transmission problems, my coolant flange blew and it is located above all of these transmission sensors. It's possible that hot coolant residue could have dripped down the ground wire into the plug of the G68 sensor. My recommendation would be to clean the transmission speed sensor terminals/plugs, clear the code with any OBD tester, and see if the issue was resolved.
After I replaced the G68 sensor, my car was still in limp mode and check engine light on. I borrowed a buddies OBD (which he purchased from Walmart for ~$60) cleared the existing codes and the check engine light extinguished and car returned to normal condition. I was skeptical if the OBD would clear the check engine light since I read transmission issues are stored in the TCM. In my case the cheap OBD worked and I'm on the road again... well at least moving at a reasonable speed. 
Thanks for the post. Knowing my car, I'm sure I'll be back for some unrelated issue.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

Another nice post! 
So in your case the OBDII code checker did clear the TCM code. This would mean that the ECM had to communicate this to the TCM. I wonder if it would clear all codes or just codes that translate into "P" codes???


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## revald08 (Mar 14, 2010)

*Re: (CoolAirVw)*

Hey guys
I have kind of the same problem with Golf 1999 auto transmission.
Here is the story. A year ago my transmission goes into limp mode. I found out the speed sensor on top of the transmission was cut Who the hell know how. I called a friend of mine mechanic and he was able to rewire it and clean the codes. Worked fine for 2 or 3 months and goes back to limp mode so i clean the code P0175 and works fine for some time. it happened again yesterday so I have to clean the code again to make it drive on all gears. Any idea pleases help. 
Thank you


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## SuperCharged666 (Oct 13, 2002)

I have both codes P0722 and P0715. I already replaced the G38 speed sensor which is the easy one of the 2. Waiting for the G68 to come in the mail so I can reaplce that one also. Does anyone know if you have a bad G68 that it will give u a code for the other speed sensor as well? Or should I be looking else where for a problem.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

SuperCharged666 said:


> I have both codes P0722 and P0715. I already replaced the G38 speed sensor which is the easy one of the 2. Waiting for the G68 to come in the mail so I can reaplce that one also. Does anyone know if you have a bad G68 that it will give u a code for the other speed sensor as well? Or should I be looking else where for a problem.


 I've never seen a problem with one cause a code for the other. But I have seen both bad. And I've seen a computer bad that caused codes on both.


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## SuperCharged666 (Oct 13, 2002)

After replacing the G38 the code for it was still there along with the other code. I'm getting the idea that the G68 I'm gunna replace isn't gunna fix those 2 codes either.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

How did you clear the code? Any battery charging or jumpstarting in your cars recent history.


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## SuperCharged666 (Oct 13, 2002)

I cleared the codes with a Genric scanner out of the ECM. Codes went away completely until I started driving a few blocks and then they came right back and trans went right back into limp mode. There has been no battery charging or jump starting in the cars recent history. Why? I have the G68 coming in the mail tommrow. So I will be putting that in as soon as it get here's but for some reason I don't think that will fix it.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

SuperCharged666 said:


> There has been no battery charging or jump starting in the cars recent history. Why? .


 The one I mentioned that had both G68 and G38 codes caused by a bad TCM had been jump started and my theory was that they hooked the cables up backwards. 



SuperCharged666 said:


> I cleared the codes with a Genric scanner out of the ECM. Codes went away completely until I started driving a few blocks and then they came right back


 

Both codes came back or just the 722?


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## SuperCharged666 (Oct 13, 2002)

Both codes came back. P0715 & p0722


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## SuperCharged666 (Oct 13, 2002)

Ok so, got my brand new G68 speed sensor in the mail yesterday. Got it all installed, what a pain in the ass that was, having to sling the engine and trans to removed the transmission mount. After I removed the trans mount visually inspected grounds and everything around there. Everything looked fine. Installed the new sensor. Put everything back together. Cleared code out of the ECM with a genric scanner. It been 2 days now and 50 miles later and the codes have not come back and the trans now has all 4 gears again. So my question is this? Is it possible to get both fault codes P0715 and P0722 if you have a bad G68 speed sensor? All I did was replace the G68 and it took care of both codes. I never even touch any of the other sensors or unplugged any of the harnesses while replacing the G68. Hopifully there codes will stay gone for a long time now. Not sure if this was the proper way to go about fixing it or if it is truely fixed or not but as for these 2 days and 50 miles later it seems to be.


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## tttomdemaria (Nov 19, 2009)

yeah another cause of this could be just below operational amount of fluid. if you get this code check your fluid level before anything else because u will end up gettin the sensor and all that **** and the ****ing code will throw again...idk about most people but i know id flip a ****..so check that ****


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

SuperCharged666 said:


> .... the codes have not come back and the trans now has all 4 gears again. So my question is this? Is it possible to get both fault codes P0715 and P0722


I've never seen that before but stranger things have happened! I'm glad your car is fixed. 



tttomdemaria said:


> yeah another cause of this could be just below operational amount of fluid. if you get this code check your fluid level before anything else because u will end up gettin the sensor and all that **** and the ****ing code will throw again...idk about most people but i know id flip a ****..so check that ****


Low fluild will NOT cause a speed sensor code.


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## tttomdemaria (Nov 19, 2009)

i drained my fluid and put new fluid in and it stayed away after i got it cleared. but im just sayin


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## AudiTeK22030 (Sep 6, 2007)

Was replacing a T-belt on a 1.8T beetle yesterday and saw the CEL was on...checked it out and I had both of these faults G68 and G38....saw signs of rodent damage and removed the airbox....found the wires from the g68 at the connector had been chewed through....just ordered a new G68 and should have this thing up and going tomorrow...


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## Dragan-shop (Feb 24, 2011)

*P0722 OBD code, and Vehicle Speed Sensor,Vehicle not moving at all*

Hi, I have 1996 Passat GLX VR6 2.8L automatic in my garage, that is not moving.
Regardless what gear you chose from P to L its not moving. I'm not sure, but I think this is not some weird "limp mode", its most likely something else.
Generic scan tool reads P0722 code and its showing that is transmission code, not able do delete it. It delete it, but when I turn ignition of and on and scan again its there again. 
Transmission is CLB, 01M, and two speed sensors are one next to another spaced about 3 inches on the top of transmission.
Removed trans oil pan and about 2 1/2 quarts of trans fluid was there.
Checked resistance at the trans control module connector under rear seat between wires 20-65(for G68 sensor) and wires 21-66(for G38 sensor) resistance was 0.731Kohm(G68) and 0.756Kohm(G38), Mitchell says: min 0.8Kohm, max 0.9Kohm, so this test tests wires and the sensors at the same time.
If we assume that code P0722 indicates bad G68 sensor, and on another hand we have similar test results for both sensors, I'm thinking that either they are both good or both bad.
Talked to local VW dealer and also ebay parts seller, and local parts store(Advance auto parts), and this is what i found: G68 and G38 are the same sensors, part # is 095 927 321 C. Ebay part number is SC198(and its correlated to S8246), S8246 is Advance auto parts number. My Mitchell also states that two sensors are the same(on the picture noted like #63), and the part number from Mitchell is the same like the dealer # 095 927 321 C.
So regardless what sensor you are after, you can bay one(095 927 321 C) and used it instead of G68 or G38.
I'm going to replace filter and trans fluid and see if that is going to help, if not my next guess is checking fluid pressure(fluid pump bad or stuck valve..?)


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

Dragan-shop said:


> Hi, I have 1996 Passat GLX VR6 2.8L automatic in my garage, that is not moving.


Your wasting your time. If your car wont move and its full of fluid, then you probably need trans.


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## kabatza (Aug 24, 2011)

*Failure of relay 109 suspected to cause limp mode*

This forum has been a great help to me as I never had a VW before, and I’m not familiar with them. 
I’m quite good in fixing cars and motorcycles, and I’ve been doing it since I was 16. People say it is a talent, but to me it is just logic…like solving a puzzle. When fixing a car there is always a solution, so the only problem is to be able to find it. 
Because of this, I always buy cars around 10 years old with some kind of problem as long as they look clean, and they are more or less drivable so I can drive them home. So far, the maximum I paid to fix any of these cars is £100 and that particular car cost me £360 from an ebay auction. 3 years and 60k miles later the car still runs like new! 
Anyway this time I bought a 1999 VW golf TDI Automatic from ebay again. The car looked in excellent condition and after inspecting it further it looks like it has been serviced to high standard, clean bodywork and rust free, new-ish belts, new turbo actuator, no noises, and no leaks apart from the usual bit of oil from the draining plug and a bit near the turbo, which is probably from the engine head cover gasket. 
The description said "loss of power, and sometimes it does not start". Scary to most people so I won the auction easy at £570. I got a lift from a friend and picked up the car, which surprisingly started straight away and drove off. The loss of power was evident from the very beginning. The car was ridiculously slow from standstill, OK when it picked up some speed, but it would not go into overdrive (4th gear) on the motorway. We all know this is limp mode (stuck in gear 3), so I drove 30 miles revving it like crazy to keep it at 70-80mph. On the way I stopped to put some fuel, and the car would not start again! This was scary for a bit. The engine was turning, but it would not fire up. I noticed there was no glow plug light coming up, so I opened the bonnet and tapped here and there, tried again…light came up and started… I was lucky!!! 
Next morning the car would not start again! After a lot of trying and tapping here and there it started! I decided to try the gears, and noted that if it was on 1 it will pull strong, in 2 a bit less, and when in 3 and D it was the same! Clearly the gearbox was OK, but the car was in limp mode. 
I started reading in forums about the starting problem and I came to the conclusion it was the “relay 109” causing the problem. I have the black one which is the old/problematic one and not the new revised one in grey. I opened it up and had a look…it looked OK and it was shiny like new! After further reading about it, I realized that the problem is usually the soldering point cracking which is hard to notice if not familiar with it. I had a better look and it was cracked indeed, and exactly where it was expected. I took out my soldering gun and some solder and applied a lot of it, to ensure it will not crack again. I also did the rest of the soldering points just to be safe! I put it back in the car, and the starting problem is now solved for good!! 
I also noticed in the forums people are asking if the relay 109 can cause the car to go in limp mode, which also was my second problem. Everybody says no, it will not… but they also say that this relay supplies power to a lot of systems of the car. I had my doubts and I decided to give it a go. I don’t have a Vag-com so I had no idea what codes were stored in the ECU and the TCU, but all I wanted to do is clear them. I know a nifty trick which usually works in most cars and clears the codes (or at least some of the codes). 
Here is what I do: 
1)	Disconnect the battery 
2)	Switch on the lights (obviously they will not light without the battery). 
3)	Touch the positive battery cable to the negative battery cable (the cables that go on the battery poles) for 3-4 seconds. 
4)	Switch off the lights and reconnect the battery, and you are done. 
It’s very easy and effective trick and requires no tools, so it may save you some money. 

Anyway, after I did this, I noticed the difference straight away when put the car in “D”!! It kicked forward a little bit like it is supposed to do, and pressing the accelerator the car took off with full power. I drove it around up to 40mph for 15 minutes and it works spot-on! 
Now I need to take it on the motorway and test the overdrive, and if it works, which I’m sure it will, the car is fixed. If not I will let you know here. 

Oh, I forgot to say that I did also check the G38 and G68 speed sensors with a multimeter. In the forums it says they have to give 800ohm. In my car both of them give 759 or 769 I don’t remember exactly now. However since the reading was identical, close to 800, and the chances both of them going bad at the same time are not many, I assumed they are OK. I did not check the sensor G22 because if this one goes bad the speedometer in the car will not work and in my car it is working. 

So, it looks like this time I was very lucky and with the help of the online forums, I fixed the car with zero cost, so I decided to share and maybe help somebody else save some money too! 
In my opinion so far, failure of relay 109 in a VW golf mk4 can cause the car to go in limp mode, and there is a good chance the same applies to VW Jetta, Bora, Passat, Beetle, and possibly in some Audi too, as the “relay 109” pops-up in forums related to these cars too. 

Good luck everybody


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## kabatza (Aug 24, 2011)

CoolAirVw said:


> Your wasting your time. If your car wont move and its full of fluid, then you probably need trans.


 I agree, or at least in 99.9% of cases. 
My sister had a Nissan micra Automatic, which had a small leak of transparent fluid since she bought it, but she ignored it because all the fluid containers were full to the required level. The gearbox however, does not have visible container, and eventually it run completely dry and stopped working! I went there and added 2.5 liters of ATF up to the mark on the dip-stick (even though the manual says it takes only 2.4 liters :sly: ), and the gearbox started working again, and even better than ever. i also tighten the return pipe on top of the gearbox, and the leak is sorted too!


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## pollywog68 (Sep 1, 2010)

*Great!*

Simply great post. I believe 100% that most of the electrical issues with sensors are due to weak soldering. My granmother use to work at N.A.S.A and she brought me up right. Thank you very much for your information and taking the time to share such an invaluable lesson. 
I too am working on a situation with my daughters 97 Passat vr6 glx. with an 01m tranny. The speedometer has been acting up. The needle on the mph speedometer would flicker up and down just as the tranny was going to shift when you got on it! I am getting a P0725 code which is a transmission speed sensor malfunction. I have ordered a oem factory replacement. Will put it on tomorrow, but reading the posts on here it must be located behind the trans mount under the car. Fun fun fun. Let me know if you have any diagrams showing the location of such. But anyway, thanks again.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

pollywog68 said:


> Simply great post. I believe 100% that most of the electrical issues with sensors are due to weak soldering. My granmother use to work at N.A.S.A and she brought me up right. Thank you very much for your information and taking the time to share such an invaluable lesson.
> I too am working on a situation with my daughters 97 Passat vr6 glx. with an 01m tranny. The speedometer has been acting up. The needle on the mph speedometer would flicker up and down just as the tranny was going to shift when you got on it! I am getting a P0725 code which is a transmission speed sensor malfunction. I have ordered a oem factory replacement. Will put it on tomorrow, but reading the posts on here it must be located behind the trans mount under the car. Fun fun fun. Let me know if you have any diagrams showing the location of such. But anyway, thanks again.


The speed sensor that is under the mount (g68) doesn't input to the speedo. It usually triggers p0722. The G22 which is above the differential goes to the speedo.


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## mndodd111 (Jun 29, 2011)

*Similar Issue*



revald08 said:


> Hey guys
> I have kind of the same problem with Golf 1999 auto transmission.
> Here is the story. A year ago my transmission goes into limp mode. I found out the speed sensor on top of the transmission was cut Who the hell know how. I called a friend of mine mechanic and he was able to rewire it and clean the codes. Worked fine for 2 or 3 months and goes back to limp mode so i clean the code P0175 and works fine for some time. it happened again yesterday so I have to clean the code again to make it drive on all gears. Any idea pleases help.
> Thank you


I am having a similar issue in my Jetta, but I didn't see where anyone had commented on this post...? Anyone have any thoughts? I think my culprit may be a bad plug end since I have a new G38 sensor, so I'm also wondering where I might find one of those, too? Thanks!


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## lilford022 (Sep 17, 2011)

*98 passat automatic trans with trip tronic in auxilary mode*

so i changed a fuse in my car today and when i went to leave again i realised my gear shift selector was all lit up not just the gear i am in so i went to the manual and it says that i have an electrical problem that made car go into that mode but i have no check engine light on so i am not sure what to do to figure this problem out can you reset it some how?


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## igortiger (Apr 24, 2011)

I am also having the same issue transmission is in limp mode. I have no check engine light on though. Though the car did have damage to it's front right passenger wheel, and currently the ABS light is on and the BRAKE light turns on a 10 seconds after the car is started and continues to just blink. 

1999 jetta 2.0 auto, in limp mode with no MIL... Thread, please be revived. 

Igor


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## bjohns86 (Nov 7, 2011)

Both of you need to see what the codes are that are causing your trans to go to limp mode. Write them down and then clear then and see if they or another code appears and go from there. Let me know what you find.

Brad


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## igortiger (Apr 24, 2011)

Sorry for grammar mistakes. I'm on my phone.

So I disconnected my battery for an attempt at clearing any codes in my computer and/or transmission computer. Didn't work, maybe I wasn't doing it right, bottom line nothing changed.

Went to my local oreaillys... Took their obd reader, and it found code P0715, shaft speed sensor (I think that's what it's called), I am assuming this is the one on the differential. 

So first off, if you have no check engine light (CEL)/malfunction indicator light (MIL) and you are in limp mode, like everyone has said run a scan on your transmission computer. 

I used the obd reader at the local car parts store and it gave me a code, and actually cleared the code, this was a plain old OBD scanner that they hand you over the counter. So it works for now but we'll see how long it lasts. If the speed sensor is faulty, it is likely to put the car back in to limp mode. 

Any thoughts on the code and which sensor it actually belongs to?

Igor


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

code 715 refers to the G38 sensor. The failure could be in the wiring or the computer also though.


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## igortiger (Apr 24, 2011)

So, I will have to Lower the transmission to replace it?

Btw, how do you check the fluid level on these friken cars?

Also, anyone live in the *seattle* area who is will to help me out with a VAG-COM?

Igor


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

No you do not have to lower it down to replace the G38, but you do for the G68.

Take a look at this page to see how to change the fluid.. How to check the fluid is in there also.


http://www.kansascitytdi.com/01M Filter change.htm


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## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

igortiger said:


> Also, anyone live in the *seattle* area who is will to help me out with a VAG-COM?
> 
> Igor


Look in the VAG-Com forum; there is a searchable 'VAGCom locator' sticky at the top. There you can find helpful folks in your area to scan your car, usually for nominal amounts of beer or pizza ...


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## igortiger (Apr 24, 2011)

Charlie_M said:


> Look in the VAG-Com forum; there is a searchable 'VAGCom locator' sticky at the top. There you can find helpful folks in your area to scan your car, usually for nominal amounts of beer or pizza ...


Thanks for the info, had a scan done of my car again to see if any new codes popped up, but I still have the same code, P0715. This time I had it scanned with something a little more advanced, but still it is not a VAG... Otherwise, it didn't show any wiring faults or anything like that, I will prob just swap out the sensor this weekend and report back here.

Igor


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## igortiger (Apr 24, 2011)

It's been a while since I last posted, but I finally ended up getting the sensor (g38) and replced it, but like the first post said, your parts guy at the local VW dealer will prob. get you the wrong part.

So for a recap, car was stuck in third gear which pretty much on any car with OB2 means it's in limp mode; car feels sluggish, slow and will not switch in to fourth gear, so if you're going 60MPH, you'll be at around 4k RPM. Your car should be able to switch through gears 1-3 manually, not if you put it in to "D." 

So, scan your computer to see if there are any codes, if there are no codes showing then find someone or a shop that has a more advanced scan tool to scan the transmission computer, specifically. Once the codes are found, write them down, clear/erase them, then go about your normal driving, and wait and see if they or any new codes or if the old codes return, which means you will most likely go back in to limp mode, too.

If the codes don't come back, then thank God and move with life, "if it aint broke, don't fix it." 

Nc_ron - who started this thread (very helpful btw, thank you), says that the g38 is referenced by P0717, process of elimination could only mean that the g22 is referenced by P0715. I would like to correct this nicely if I could:
I had the code P0715 and my speedo still worded, so P0715 could not reference the g22 sensor.
I replaced the g38 in my jetta and P0715 vanished and has not returned, I have driven over sixty (60) miles and have started and shut off my car many times. I am calling it a success. 

If the codes return, it goes a little something like: 

P0722 = g68, has a pigtail (around $70 Bellevue, WA VW)
P0715 = g38, no pigtail (around $95 Bellevue, WA VW)
P0717 = g22, no pigtail, but slightly larger than the g38 (Don't know how much, but from research, this sensor doesn't usually go bad, idk why)

I was told, on this thread, that if you "might" have a bad sensor, then you "might" just have bad wiring.
I would recommend replacing the sensor first before rewiring anything, unless of course you see visible damage or you know for a fact that your transmission is not functioning properly. 

One thing is that, like nc_ron mentioned, the dealer might give you the wrong sensor. I gave them my VIN, (for those who are wondering why I gave a VIN, it's not just to have the year, make, model, but they can see what transmission was put on that car) and they still gave me the wrong sensor. I told them, "I need a g38, speed sensor" and they gave me the 68.
I have also heard that there are three (3) different types of g38's, so what I would do is if you are replacing the g38, take out your battery and battery platform, disconnect the g38, and and snap a photo of the connection, and use that to help you locate the right sensor with the right type of connection. 

Even the g68 that they gave me first time was the incorrect g68. I unplugged the g68 (just for fun) to compare it to see if they gave me the right g68 and it would not fit, it had a different type of connection, so if I was in a position where the g68 would need replacing I would have been screwed.

Remove existing sensor, replace with new sensor, clear codes, and drive.

I would recommend that if you are in limp mode you stay away from the highway, and if you absolutely need to drive, drive city speed limits and switch through the gears (1-3) manually.
If you are in limp mode and are just cruising around as usual, you will very quickly wear out your third gear disc, and when you have the car functioning properly again, your transmission will have a rough time getting in to third gear smoothly. 

Once I came to know what the issue with my car was, I borrowed my friends OBD scanner and kept it in the car, and just before I had to get out on the highway, I would pullover and clear the code, and proceed on to the highway and the car would basically switch at a default time, and it would go in to fourth (4th) gear usually for just that one trip, and once I would get to where I was going. I would park and once I was on my way again, the transmission would go back in to limp mode because the sensor was indeed bad.

Thanks for all the help and info from all those who posted. Looking back, I think I was a little too worried about the problem. Only thing is, if I had to replace the g68, would have been in the garage for much longer.

Again, thank you to all, fi the problem returns or a new code comes up I will report back immediately.


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## Elmer Sklue (Oct 3, 2011)

*Limp Mode, P0722 OBD code, and Vehicle Speed Sensor - Advice of NC-Ron™ Verified*

2002 Jetta Wagon with 2.0 engine and 01M transmission. 145,000 miles on odometer.

Transmission locked out of 4th gear. System throwing P0722, P0730, and P0740 OBD codes. 

Repeatedly cleared codes and kept driving for a few days. Sometimes well below speed limit on freeway in 3rd gear at 4000 RPM. Sometimes 4th gear would be allowed if codes were cleared just right.

To my surprise transmission problems then stopped on their own for more than a week. But they did return as expected. G68 sensor hidden under left transmission mount was then replaced per advice of this forum. Problem appears to be solved. No codes thrown for a month now. Transmission shifts very smoothly. Seems better than before trouble started. Battery terminals and connections are polished now too.

A replacement stretch bolt set can be purchased at reasonable price from Marquette Automotive. Discard used stretch bolts when reinstalling transmission mount in favor of the new bolts. 

http://www.metalmanparts.com/product.sc?productId=155&categoryId=68

The 01M transmission seems pretty good to me. A simple sensor going bad after ten years is no big deal.


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## Jessica44 (Aug 12, 2011)

*No forth gear!!*

I have a 96 Vw Jetta. I'm having problems with 4th gear. It shifts a little hard from 1st to 2nd, fine into 3rd, and will go into 4th. As soon as pressure is applied to the gas pedal to speed up, it slips out of 4th gear, (kinda like it won't downshift to 3rd). If you let off the gas pedal it will catch 4th again, but again if you apply any pressure to the pedal it will slip right back out. It used to be an intermittent problem but lately it does it all the time. Changed the wire harness, solenoid, TCM, and the plastic plugs in the valve body. When I recently replaced the TCM it seemed fine, but we had to drop the pan and fix a leak in the pan and ever since then the 4th gear issue has been an everyday occurance. We've tried scanning for codes, but haven't come up with anything on the tranny. It is NOT in limp mode. I'm on the verge of just taking a baseball bat to the car. :banghead: Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

I replied to this in another thread or on another forum.


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## Jettaissues (Apr 14, 2012)

Re: My cars shifting again 
Well for anyone who sees this, since i ran the car with the transmission sensor unplugged it put it in limp mode on my 99.5 MKIV Jetta 2.0 auto. I had a friend at a transmission shop scan it with a European scanner and it had a bunch of codes for the transmision sensors stored. "it had several others because i unplugged a bunch of crap looking for a short" After he cleared them, all is well, Jetta is out of limp mode and driving fine. Shifts smoother than before. So before you go to the dealer with "limp mode" try to find a 'friend' with a vag-com or european scanner. A lot of smaller shops even have them. At a shop it was going to be $80, but if you know someone inside, they may help for a much lower price. just throw them a bone please. 
Thanks for this thread, wudn't have known wat to do if it wudn't for this thread. I disconnected my connectors on top of the transmission trying to find a short ( drove it a mile with one unplugged) and threw it into 'limp mode' after that i did this fix above it fixed it and the only code that came back was the MAF sensor and I can fix that. Thanks from Kentucky 2012 CHAMPS


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## utahcamper (Jul 17, 2012)

*97 Eurovan camper, limp mode, PO722*

Thanks for the info. I used this thread to diagnose my 97 Eurovan camper with an identical problem. I replaced the G68 sensor. It is very accessible on this vehicle. remove the skid plate from the bottom and this sensor is located on the front side of the transmission, two wires, maybe a foot to the side of the driver side front tire. On the oppposite (rear side) of the transmission is the Multi Function switch with about 6 wires coming out of it. I just jacked up the drivers side a bit, crawled under and swapped it out with a speed sensor (part# 13-0112) I got from O'reilley auto parts. Works great now. Hope this helps someone else.


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## joshua22881 (Nov 2, 2012)

*P0722 Problem 2000 vw golf gls 1.8t. AWD*

I have a 2000 VW Golf Gls 1.8t AWD Automatic. a couple months ago the timing gear on the cam broke and really did a number on the motor so I rebuilt the whole thing all new Bearings, oil pump, new AEB cylinder head and turbo, car runs great! No problem with motor but I do have one code P0722 (Output Speed Sensor) Now I am having a hard time trying to trying to decide which speed sensor to change. Any ideas on what I might try first? I can't decide to get the g36 or g68


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

joshua22881 said:


> Now I am having a hard time trying to trying to decide which speed sensor to change. Any ideas on what I might try first? I can't decide to get the g36 or g68


722 relates to the G68 sensor.


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## shytbox (Mar 15, 2013)

Im getting so frustrated with my jetta  I want to burn it to the ground! 

So iv been messing with cars my whole life and this is the first time iv been stumped lol, my previous cars gave me the same problems and I fixed them no issue until now. 

It started giving me problems like massive amount of vibration not picking up speed on full throttle and when i'm going over 100 the speed is not accurate and just stays at 100(iv checked with my gps, it says 100 but was really at 140) but I know how to control it by rpm so im good there but will fix that either way and a weird smell, she does this when ever she wants to and it pisses me off.:banghead: 

I'm in Canada and I would like to know where I can get these sensors, im done with this problem its so bad I just want to sell it and finish my civic. 

The latest problem it gave me was that it didn't want to change gear, at all. 

I gave her a full tune up, cleared all the codes and it was quite strong but then boom pops right back into limp mode. 

I bought it as an engagement gift for my fiancée and regret it so bad. 

I was even planning on modding it for her, already have some nice wheels for it, if it isn't solved soon she will be dismissed. 

Please help me out.


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## darntito (Aug 6, 2013)

I have a 2000 model VW golf mk4 showing a G68 No signal fault code and the vehicle has to get to about 4000 rpm before it changes to the next gear harshly. I am thinking it's the TCM but it has been changed about 3 times now. What can I do after changing the TCM now. Please I hope to get a response soon as it seems the vehicle is proving hard to maintain financially


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## Working on my Jettta aga (Sep 8, 2013)

*po code 722 again and still.*

Hello all great work!:wave:

2002 Jetta, 2.0 w/o1m 130k

I am posting as I have on going code 722 or no signal from the g68 sensor.

This happend a few months ago and the g68 replacement solved it.

Now, another g68 sensor and I cannot clear the 722 with a generic scanner. 

I have removed the connector and soldered the wires at the g68 pigtail.
I have checked the wires for continuity at the tcu.
I have inspected the wiring harness from stem to stern.

I have been told that I must clear the 722 before I consider the other codes 732,733,734.

What in the world could be causing this no signal from the g68? 
Is it possible that only a Vag-Com session could clear this up?

130k runs very well. oil changed every 2500 mi. Recent tranny fluid/filter change.

Thanks, Terry


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## frahman (Feb 7, 2008)

*2000 Jetta VR6 on limp mode with P0722 code*

Few days back while I was driving in a hot(90 degree F) day, I felt something got loose or disconnected from underneath the car and then the car went to the limp mode. I drove back and using the scanner found the code to be P0722 and P0722 pd. After reading your post, I realized I needed to replace the G68 sensor. I took the car to my mechanic to replace the sensor. I already bought the sensor but when the old was replace we realized that I got the wrong part. So, he put back the old one and I ordered the correct one and waiting for the part to arrive. Prior to this incident, I noticed that both in reverse to front gear, the shifting would be abrupt and I felt a jerk. 

Tonight I had to drive around the corner store and to my surprise, the check engine light is gone and the gear is shifting fine. The gear shifting is also smooth! I test drove the car and everything seems to be fine so far. The old sensor is still there.

Can anyone shed some light to this and help me understand these issues. My concerns are, do I replace the G68 sensor and 2ndly, was something got stuck in the transmission. 

Thanks




nc_ron said:


> <br>I'm posting this because I had no luck at finding information in the forum to assist in solving the problem of our Jetta being in transmission Limp Mode. Limp mode results in the transmission operating only in 1st and 3rd gear, with upshifts at about 4000 rpm.<p>Our 2001 AEG with 01M automatic transmission went into limp mode and showed OBD code P0722. Bentley describes P0722 as transmission output speed sensor. The weather was bad, my wife was screaming, so I took the car to the dealer. They called and said the car ran fine on a test drive, but still showed a DTC for Vehicle Speed Sensor. I paid them $150 to replace the sensor. <p>A couple weeks go by and the car is back into Limp Mode. I start researching it. The 01M has three speed sensors on the transmission. These are identified in the wiring diagram as G22, G38, and G68. G38 and G68 connect through the harness to the Transmission Control Module (TCM). G22 connects to the back of the instrument cluster. My professional VW mechanic, with a shop full of manuals, TSB's, and computers, had replaced the speedo sensor. I went back to the dealer and had this conversation:<br><B>Me:</B> There are 3 sensors. Two go to the TCM and one goes to the speedometer. The complaint was transmission in limp mode and you replaced the speedometer sensor. I don't think that's right.<br><B>Dealer: </B>These things are all interconnected. It could be the speedo sensor causing the transmission problem.<br><B>Me:</B> Then why is it doing it again? Doesn't VAG-COM tell you which sensor is bad?<br><B>Dealer:</B> We can't tell you anything unless you bring it back in and let us do a diagnosis. That will be $110.<br><B>Me </B>(<I>unspoken</I>): When pigs fly, you ******! <p>VW Technical Bulletin C01-99-02 addresses the issue of speed sensors and DTC's. It shows the location of each sensor and identifies it by the wiring diagram "G" number. It also tells which sensor causes each DTC, but it is listing VW DTC's that are not cross-referenced to OBD codes in Bentley. It also implies that the VAG tool shows the wrong sensor for DTC-00281. Bentley also has illustrations in the AT section to identify the sensors by the G number. <p>The problem then becomes to determine which of the sensors is associated with the P0722 code. P0722 is "output speed sensor," but nowhere are any of the sensors described with those words. My successful repair would indicate the following:<p>The G38 sensor, on the center top of the transmission, directly accessible under the battery tray, is apparently the input speed sensor referenced by OBD code P0717. The G22 speedometer sensor is on top of the differential housing, in a silver heat shield behind the engine. The G68 sensor is the output speed sensor referred to by code P0722 and is on top of the transmission, under the mount support bracket. <p>Bentley makes the replacement of G68 sound terrible. It is not. Remove the air cleaner housing and battery tray. G68 is out of sight, under the transmission mount support bracket. Support the weight of the transmission on a jack, lifting on the skid plate. The support bracket must be removed. VW says to replace all 4 support bolts (these are the same bolts replaced in a timing belt replacement). Instead of replacing them, before removal I used a Sharpie to make match marks on all 4 bolts. When replacing them I realigned the marks, plus 1/12 turn. If the transmission falls out, I'll be sure to post it.<p>With the 4 bolts out, lower the transmission about 2 inches to make room to move the support bracket aside. You don't need to get it out of the car, just move it aside so you can get to the speed sensor. Everything from here is simple remove and replace.<p>Buying the sensor was something of an ordeal. The parts guy brought out the G22 speedo sensor (357 919 149B). If I had not had the Bentley manual and VW TSB with me, I think he would not have believed that the other sensors existed. The G68 output speed sensor has a pigtail harness; the G38 input sensor does not. My G68 is 01M 927 321B. My G38 is 095 927 321B. Check your numbers; the parts guy said there was a G68 number change on later models.<p>It's now been about 3 months, and everything is good, so I believe this info is right.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

intermittant problem. Sometimes the sensor works.. sometimes it dont. Might even be a situation where it works ok cold but starts acting up warm.


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## markmk1 (Apr 20, 2011)

*P0722*

Changed mine yesterday after reading your post. Beetle is back to norm now thanks for the info


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## nanocrystal (Jan 11, 2015)

*Very useful information for P0722*

Just finished replacing the G68 sensor after my daughters 2001 Jetta GLS started showing the limp mode symptoms this morning. To my surprise the local Autozone store had the sensor as part number SU8121 in stock. The car run perfect after sensor replacement and the instructions on how to get to the sensor work great. I had to remove five bolts. The fifth was holding the mounting bracket to the transmission and also served as a mount for a tube clamp. After that I could slide the mounting bracket just to the side giving me full access to the sensor. 

This forum has saved me many times now.


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## Yeah_Buggy! (Jan 18, 2015)

*Excellent post! Worth reading the whole thread. One more G68 question.*

Just got 1 question about the G68. My daughter's car, 'Daisy' is 1998 New beetle AEG 2.0 with 01M 4spd A/T. I was trying to find the G68 and referenced the ATM part number in the original post 01M 927 321B. This is only listed for 2000- 2001+ 01M trannys. Part number listed for 1998-1999 is 01M 927 321. 
I held a 321B sensor @ a NAPA today and the connector and dimensions appear to be the same.
What changed in the mfg process in the upgrade to 321B?
Will both sensors work with the newer models?
Is the 321B backwards compatible with the 321?

I guess that's more than 1 question. Any help would be greatly appreciated. 
Thanks.


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## gsferraro (Sep 22, 2014)

The early G68 senor takes a harness with 2 wires, the later style has sensor has a wire lead and is a 3 pin connector not 2 pin, so i would say that will not work. Gary


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## Yeah_Buggy! (Jan 18, 2015)

*Thanks!*

Well, that would make a huge difference. Pardon me for overlooking the obvious. Thanks for the politely pointing that out for me.:facepalm:


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## gsferraro (Sep 22, 2014)

no problem, happy to help. I have a trans shop in new york. Gary


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## JoeBriggs (Jan 17, 2015)

*what caused the 'bad' TCM?*

Any idea what caused the TCM to fail? Did the car get flooded? What were the symptoms? Would it not retain persistent data? Thanks.


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## Yeah_Buggy! (Jan 18, 2015)

*stared like this...*

The last part that failed was CPS sensor (P0322) with no start. Had a reading of over 10k ohm when hot, but cooled down and started fine when reading below 900ohm. This could have caused flooding b/c still had pressure to the fuel rail. Replaced CPS and 'Daisy' ran fine for a week then started having high rpm shift symptoms. Only would shift up @ about 3200 rpm. Downshift also occurred way too high when coasting. Perfect for the mountains, but not flat roads. Replaced the G38 from parts geek for $42 and re-seated/cleaned the G68 connector and the bug is shifting like a dream. I'm almost convinced that having the battery disconnected for a couple of hours helped some also. Maybe the TCM? After reading for days, thought that the sensors were the best place to start. Another note, bug has not yet been in limp mode, so I got that going for me. Got a G68 sensor 01M 927 321 on order from local NAPA for $36. Got the part number from an excellent post on this site. If no problems arise then I'll shelve it, but I got it if I need it. Will update when status quo changes.


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## nomoski (Nov 27, 2011)

*pP0722 Vehicle Speed Sensor*

nc-ron's post is dead on. Thanks man!

CoolAirVw - Thanks for the photo and locations of the trans sensors!

It's guys like you that make this site so good!

nomoski


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## chiptooth (Aug 23, 2015)

I have a 98 Golf 135k miles in limp mode, no CEL. I was told a white smoke came from under hood on the drivers side, near the windshield.. And there seems to be a good amount of corrosion around the connections on the top of the transmission. OBD gives these codes
0753
0758
0763
0768
0773
P1778
0748
0722
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk


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## MichaelJohnston (Jan 21, 2009)

Thanks to OP for the info! My Jetta started going into limp mode so I checked the resistance on G68. The coil seemed to be in spec, but checking other pins showed that I had a short. Followed the instructions for getting to the sensor and found a gnarled wire right at the sensor. Replaced and so far so good. Can only imagine how much money it saved me.

In case it hasn't been mentioned here, the resistance between pins 1&2 should be 800-900 ohms. Pins 1&3 and 2&3 should be open.


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## tcsjetta (Sep 1, 2016)

*I reused the motor mount bolts as well*

PUT SOME BLUE LOCTITE ON EM AND TIGHTENED THEM UP TO WHERE IT FELT WHEN I REMOVED,WELL MAYBE A LIL LESS. IT WORKS BUT MY LIMP CODE HAS NOT GONE OUT YET,DO I HAVE TO GET IT CLEARED OR WILL IT GO OUT BY ITSELF EVENTUALLY?:what:


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## tcsjetta (Sep 1, 2016)

*Limp mode turn off*

Borrowed a OBD code scanner and cleared the limp mode code.....SUCCESS! Now on to the bank 1 sensor 2-o2 sensor,as soon as it comes in the mail anywho:laugh:.
You can buy OBDll's pretty reasonable now,i put this one on my wish list,it clears codes does alot of the new sensors like air bag innova 3040


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## danomax6.6 (Jan 11, 2017)

*coolairvw p0715 p0722*

Hey guys! I have a quick question, my 2000 jetta 2.0 is stuck in limp like the others on this page. however, when I erase the tranny codes with my scanner they come back immediately, i dont even have to start the car. I think my reader is erasing them because I am in the transmission section of the menu (do not have vagcom). i have inspected the connectors for both sensors and both seem dry and clean. I say that because i recently when through a puddle  the wiring at the connectors seems fine, no shorts or kinks so i was thinking my next step is to test the wires to see if they short out between the tcm and sensors themselves. it looks like the two sensor g38 and g68 are ran together to the tcm in two separate casings inside the larger wiring harness. due to this is it would seem weird that both are shorting out if they dont have the same power supplies or grounds. it also seems like it would be strange that both sensors went out at the same time. Can anyone please tell me the voltages/ohms there wires should be running? (one is a three pin and the other a two pin) as well as what number pins they correlate to on the tcm? thank you! also i will be trying a to throw a new sensor in it today as i would image they are cheaper than tcms. i appreciate the help!


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## danomax6.6 (Jan 11, 2017)

*coolairvw p0715 p0722*

Hey there! I recently drove through a somewhat small puddle and and now getting these codes on my 2000 jetta 2.0. it is in limp mode and when i erase the codes they come back before even starting the car. I have inspected the harnesses and both connectors seems very dry and clean. also all wiring down there looks good. I noticed that two sensors run in separate tubes together in the large wiring harness to the tcm. Because the codes arrived at the same time i doubt that both sensors are bad. because they dont share the same power wires i didnt think it would be a short in a power wire. could it be a internal short in the tcm? Next i am testing the sensors to see what kind of power they have. does anyone know what reading for the G38 and G68 wires should be? I have a two prong and a three prong. Also if anyone can tell me what pins they correlate to on the tcm it would be greatly appreciated!!


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## PrettyBlueEyesz (Jun 26, 2017)

I have a 2001 1.8T and today i checked codes on it and it has three: P0170, P0722, and P0715. After driving a good 15 minutes it also started doing this sluggish thing when accelerating from stop. It did this once before and has been fine since. 
Fast forward a few hours thou and it's still doing the same sluggish thing. Not knowing, I got on the highway and my RPM gage was at 4 when I was at 60mph and it's usually not that high so I got off the highway and did back roads. Still feel likes it's struggling. I was trying to see if the car was shifting and it appears to be I saw the RPMs drop on town roads. I saw another post on here about this and it said to shift manually. But I don't have the ability to do that. As far as I know. I only have D, D1,2,3. I don't want to screw up my trans. This JUST became an issue. 

I erased the codes and I don't work far so I want to see what happens tomorrow when I go to work. If I need both the G38 and g68 replace with whatever wiring does anyone know what cost I might be looking at from a garage? I can't work on my car I don't know how. The only reason I know all this is from looking it up and having a little bit of general car knowledge. Any info is appreciated. Thanks.


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## filmnoire (Sep 11, 2009)

EDIT - Post removed because I asked a dumb question.


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