# 1.8T into MK1 Rabbit - Help



## PlayboyRabbit (Mar 21, 2007)

I just got a 1.8T motor / tranny from a 02 jetta that i want in my rabbit. This will be my first project and I am not gonna pretend to be an expert. So any and all help is greatly appreciated. I plan on making a build thread with lots of pics and updates. Here are the basics to get going:
MK1 Rabbit
2002 1.8T motor / tranny with matching cluster and ECU.
Have motor mounts so physical fit is not an issue.
Want to run stock ECU to get going.
Issues:
What axles to use? Where to get them modified?
What fuel pump? What mods do I need on the fuel delivery side?
I only have the clutch and gas pedals from the 2002. What to do about brake booster hookup?
Evap, O2 sensor needed or not? Pointers?
Should I mount the 2002 cluster in the dash and call it a day or is it easy enough to connect to the 1985 cabriolet dash I have in there now?
What do I need to know about wiring?
What else do I need to know.
One other thing...I have a month to get this complete since I am using a buddy's garage and he needs space after a month max.
I am a complete novice at wiring/electrical and not familiar with 1.8Ts at all. Go ahead and have a good laugh, get it out of your system, but any pointers will be appreciated.
Thanks.


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## wolfsburg1.8Tchipped (Sep 1, 2007)

*Re: 1.8T into MK1 Rabbit - Help (PlayboyRabbit)*

Sounds like you got a problem.








It is not technical(maybe), or anything, but this is a big project man and a month will not be enough, unless you plan on working around the clock, and have access to a machine shop to fabricate stuff for you.
So, if you do, than I guess I have some questions Are you sure that a physical fit is not an issue? And why do you want to change the brake booster from your rabbit? You should be able to use that. Do you only have the block of the 1.8T, or do you have the intake manifolds, injectors, ECU, and etc. i mean give us some more info so we can help you out. I have had a few 1.8T's so maybe I can give you some pointers. 
I would start with geting all the neccessery equipment to run the 1.8T if you don't have them, and then you go from there.
Good luck man, I will keep an eye on your post!


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## 16valvedCaddy (Nov 26, 2002)

*Re: 1.8T into MK1 Rabbit - Help (wolfsburg1.8Tchipped)*

Yeah, A month is a short timetable, The ECU, key, and cluster are all connected. People like APR can disable the immoblizer. I think the mk1 axles will fit with just new flanges.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4005362
http://funksoulkitty.org/shock....html



_Modified by 16valvedCaddy at 8:52 PM 12-19-2008_


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## PlayboyRabbit (Mar 21, 2007)

*Re: 1.8T into MK1 Rabbit - Help (wolfsburg1.8Tchipped)*


_Quote, originally posted by *wolfsburg1.8Tchipped* »_Sounds like you got a problem.








It is not technical(maybe), or anything, but this is a big project man and a month will not be enough, unless you plan on working around the clock, and have access to a machine shop to fabricate stuff for you.
So, if you do, than I guess I have some questions Are you sure that a physical fit is not an issue? And why do you want to change the brake booster from your rabbit? You should be able to use that. Do you only have the block of the 1.8T, or do you have the intake manifolds, injectors, ECU, and etc. i mean give us some more info so we can help you out. I have had a few 1.8T's so maybe I can give you some pointers. 
I would start with geting all the neccessery equipment to run the 1.8T if you don't have them, and then you go from there.
Good luck man, I will keep an eye on your post!
















I know its a bit ambitious. My buddy has a mig welder, plasma cutter, air tools, grinders, tubing bender, etc. so we can fab some simple stuff, but not a full on machine shop.
I do have the head and block, tranny, shifter box, clutch & gas pedals, intake and exhaust manifold, turbo, matching ECU and gauge cluster.
I don't have a downpipe, cat, O2 sensors, intercooler and IC tubing, radiator, shroud / fan, and cooling hoses(which will have to be custom, unless someone knows what to use)


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## PlayboyRabbit (Mar 21, 2007)

*Re: 1.8T into MK1 Rabbit - Help (16valvedCaddy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16valvedCaddy* »_Yeah, A month is a short timetable, The ECU, key, and cluster are all connected. People like APR can disable the immoblizer. I think the mk1 axles will fit with just new flanges.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4005362
http://funksoulkitty.org/shock....html

_Modified by 16valvedCaddy at 8:52 PM 12-19-2008_


Thanks!!!


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## wolfsburg1.8Tchipped (Sep 1, 2007)

*Re: 1.8T into MK1 Rabbit - Help (PlayboyRabbit)*

Ok! It sounds like you have most of the basics. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Now, I would pull out the Rabbit engine and start figuring out how I am gonna mount in the 1.8T. 
Once you have that done properly, the next thing would be to get those drive shafts to fit. Everytime when I have done a swap, we always ended up converting the stock shafts to fit. One thing you need to note is that they are usually much weaker than the ones from the car that the engine is from. I don't know what kind of mods you want to do to your 1.8T, but keep in mind that the shafts may not be able to handle all that torque. You could go the other way and try to make the MKIV shafts fit, but I am not sure if the body of your rabbit is wide enough to do that, you will have to find that out when you start putting your stuff on.


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## PlayboyRabbit (Mar 21, 2007)

*Re: 1.8T into MK1 Rabbit - Help (wolfsburg1.8Tchipped)*


_Quote, originally posted by *wolfsburg1.8Tchipped* »_Ok! It sounds like you have most of the basics. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Now, I would pull out the Rabbit engine and start figuring out how I am gonna mount in the 1.8T. 
Once you have that done properly, the next thing would be to get those drive shafts to fit. Everytime when I have done a swap, we always ended up converting the stock shafts to fit. One thing you need to note is that they are usually much weaker than the ones from the car that the engine is from. I don't know what kind of mods you want to do to your 1.8T, but keep in mind that the shafts may not be able to handle all that torque. You could go the other way and try to make the MKIV shafts fit, but I am not sure if the body of your rabbit is wide enough to do that, you will have to find that out when you start putting your stuff on.









Thanks. The rabbit is too narrow to fit the mkiv shafts, but per xpalendocious the mkiv diesel flanges should do the trick and can run 100mm mki axles.


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## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*Re: 1.8T into MK1 Rabbit - Help (PlayboyRabbit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PlayboyRabbit* »_
Thanks. The rabbit is too narrow to fit the mkiv shafts, but per xpalendocious the mkiv diesel flanges should do the trick and can run 100mm mki axles.


Early Mk4s used 100mm axles on the 2.0 and TDI, see the swap FAQ it my sig for Swap info and the flange part numbers.


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## PlayboyRabbit (Mar 21, 2007)

*Re: 1.8T into MK1 Rabbit - Help (Boostin20v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Boostin20v* »_
Early Mk4s used 100mm axles on the 2.0 and TDI, see the swap FAQ it my sig for Swap info and the flange part numbers.

Thanks! Lots of info on the FAQ. Have it bookmarked.


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## PlayboyRabbit (Mar 21, 2007)

*Re: 1.8T into MK1 Rabbit - Help (PlayboyRabbit)*

Got my motor / tranny yesterday...Nice Christmas present for myself!


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## PlayboyRabbit (Mar 21, 2007)

*Re: 1.8T into MK1 Rabbit - Help (PlayboyRabbit)*

So the guy I bought the motor tranny from can't find the ignition switch and key. How do I get these made (I don't have VIN number) and how much am I looking at $ wise? Is there an easier way around this, since '02 and up need matching ECU, Cluster, and Ignition/Key? Don't want to go standalone route right now. BTW, I have the Cluster and ECU.
Thanks.


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## PlayboyRabbit (Mar 21, 2007)

*Re: 1.8T into MK1 Rabbit - Help (PlayboyRabbit)*

Pic of motor for fun.





_Modified by PlayboyRabbit at 4:46 PM 12-31-2008_


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## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*Re: 1.8T into MK1 Rabbit - Help (PlayboyRabbit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PlayboyRabbit* »_So the guy I bought the motor tranny from can't find the ignition switch and key. How do I get these made (I don't have VIN number) and how much am I looking at $ wise? Is there an easier way around this, since '02 and up need matching ECU, Cluster, and Ignition/Key? Don't want to go standalone route right now. BTW, I have the Cluster and ECU.
Thanks.

Immobilizer defeat. Requires just the ECU and wiring no matching cluster or ignition.


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## [email protected] (Aug 14, 2006)

*Re: 1.8T into MK1 Rabbit - Help (PlayboyRabbit)*

Best is to get IMMO defeat and we can do it 

pm me for info 



_Modified by unitronic2 at 10:50 AM 1-3-2009_


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## wolfsburg-motorsport (Dec 10, 2007)

Have a look through here, guides for mk2 but tells you the diff for mk1.
http://www.qpeng.com/conversion_guide.html


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: 1.8T into MK1 Rabbit - Help (PlayboyRabbit)*

need to fab brackets for trans. fuel pump should be ok. mount the gas pedal to exisiting pedal cluster. need to get 100mm axle cups, i have a set, PM me if interested. seems like you got the tools, make the DP and intercooler piping. Get immobilizer defeat then you dont need key or cluster.


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## PlayboyRabbit (Mar 21, 2007)

*Re: 1.8T into MK1 Rabbit - Help (PlayboyRabbit)*

Got started on removal early morning today. Had to work outside cause there is a '63 continental in my buddy's garage that should be out in a couple of days. Coldest morning in a long time. The Rabbit started up on the first crank when I moved it! Got everything disconnected in engine bay except motor mounts. Pics for fun...
Getting Started:


Motor with Lincoln:

Fire to keep warm:





_Modified by PlayboyRabbit at 3:05 PM 1-5-2009_


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## PlayboyRabbit (Mar 21, 2007)

*Re: 1.8T into MK1 Rabbit - Help (PlayboyRabbit)*

Got motor tranny out and have been working on cleaning the bay. Also got timing belt and tensioner. Should be getting flanges pretty soon. How good are the welds holding the steering rack brackets and motor mounts? Thinking whether or not I should reinforce the welds in the bay or is it just a waste of time?


_Modified by PlayboyRabbit at 12:38 PM 1-21-2009_


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## Turbo_Pumpkin (Feb 22, 2002)

*Re: 1.8T into MK1 Rabbit - Help (PlayboyRabbit)*

What wiring do you have? If you just have the engine harness you are short quite a bit of wiring. I just did this swap into a MK1 jetta. What mounts are you using?


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## PlayboyRabbit (Mar 21, 2007)

*Re: 1.8T into MK1 Rabbit - Help (Turbo_Pumpkin)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Turbo_Pumpkin* »_What wiring do you have? If you just have the engine harness you are short quite a bit of wiring. I just did this swap into a MK1 jetta. What mounts are you using? 

I have the engine harness complete and a couple of hacked body harnesses that will be a bitch to clean up. Mounts are WRD for rear and transmission side, custom on engine side, and stock in front - all with poly inserts.
What mounts did you use? Wiring?


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## Turbo_Pumpkin (Feb 22, 2002)

*Re: 1.8T into MK1 Rabbit - Help (PlayboyRabbit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PlayboyRabbit* »_
What mounts did you use? Wiring?

I used the same wrd mounts and made the engine mount. I used a complete car harness. I pulled everything from the fuse block of the MK4. Make sure that you ahve all of the wiring including the relays that sit in the engine bay fo the MK4 because they run the evap stuff (which doesn't really matter), but they also supply power to the coils, O2's, and ecu. As far as I know you MUST use that wiring fi you want the car to be fully functuioning. Also, do you ahve the OBD2 port? You may also want that. It's not too complicated to hook up, but you have to have everything to make it work. Good luck... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## PlayboyRabbit (Mar 21, 2007)

*Re: 1.8T into MK1 Rabbit - Help (Turbo_Pumpkin)*

Update: Got bay cleaned and sprayed and test fitted the motor and tranny in. Will post pics up soon.
Continental is out of garage finally...


_Modified by PlayboyRabbit at 10:48 PM 2-17-2009_


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## PlayboyRabbit (Mar 21, 2007)

*Re: 1.8T into MK1 Rabbit - Help (PlayboyRabbit)*

Does anyone know if there are two types of turbo inlet pipes? The one I have doesn't want to seat in all the way - the bolt isn't even close to going in. Any suggestions, I don't want to force and break something. Also, with the immobilizer defeat, will the stock cluster still work? Thx.
Update: Got new flanges and gas pedal installed.

_Modified by PlayboyRabbit at 9:52 AM 2-6-2009_


_Modified by PlayboyRabbit at 11:28 AM 2-11-2009_


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## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*FV-QR*

The K03 and K03s have different TIPs (OE), the silicone replacements should fit on either.


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## PlayboyRabbit (Mar 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Boostin20v)*

Thanks Boostin. The part number the dealer showed on a 2002 Jetta diagram for the inlet pipe showed up as "Part not found" on the ordering system.








Don't know if I am over thinking this, but I don't want to skimp in this area: The T-belt tensioner spacer. I checked funksoulkitty's writeup and there is no picture of an actual spacer, just a pic of the engine with and without, but you can't see the spacer. Should I just use a washer or sheet metal to space it, or does it need to be more elaborate to keep it from rotating loose?
Anyways on to pics:
Both motors sitting in hay carts:








Engine Bay painted:








Test fitting the dash with mk4 cluster:








Bracket for the gas pedal...the side plate was moved to the other side before install:








Gas pedal braket tacked in place:








Face plate for dash:








Primered the inside firewall and will paint it black...not looking forward to the wiring mess lurking underneath:








Side brackets for the front subframe...not completed yet:








Mike holding the subframe tacked together and about to be properly welded by the welding / fabrication maestro himself:








That's all for now. Motor should be in tomorrow for a very long time hopefully. Then the fun with wiring and connecting everything begins.



_Modified by PlayboyRabbit at 6:28 PM 2-11-2009_


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## Turbo_Pumpkin (Feb 22, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (PlayboyRabbit)*

I have some inlet pipes and such layin around. What do you need?


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## Turbo_Pumpkin (Feb 22, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (PlayboyRabbit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PlayboyRabbit* »_
Don't know if I am over thinking this, but I don't want to skimp in this area: The T-belt tensioner spacer. I checked funksoulkitty's writeup and there is no picture of an actual spacer, just a pic of the engine with and without, but you can't see the spacer. Should I just use a washer or sheet metal to space it, or does it need to be more elaborate to keep it from rotating loose?
!

Eurosprot sells a kit withthe spacer. Maybe someone with that kit could measure it for you.


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## Turbo_Pumpkin (Feb 22, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (PlayboyRabbit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PlayboyRabbit* »_ The part number the dealer showed on a 2002 Jetta diagram for the inlet pipe showed up as "Part not found" on the ordering system.










THis one?


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## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (PlayboyRabbit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PlayboyRabbit* »_Thanks Boostin. The part number the dealer showed on a 2002 Jetta diagram for the inlet pipe showed up as "Part not found" on the ordering system.









Likely the part number has been superseded. Finding it used is going to be much cheaper.


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## PlayboyRabbit (Mar 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Turbo_Pumpkin)*

Yeah, the aluminum inlet pipe. The part number the dealer came up with for 2002 Jetta ended in "M" and showed up as part not found. The inlet pipe I have is part number "06A 133 607F". It slides on, but won't seat properly.
Also, thanks Turbo for pointing to Eurospec for the spacer. They have a pic online and thats all I needed to confirm.


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## Turbo_Pumpkin (Feb 22, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (PlayboyRabbit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PlayboyRabbit* »_Yeah, the aluminum inlet pipe. The part number the dealer came up with for 2002 Jetta ended in "M" and showed up as part not found. The inlet pipe I have is part number "06A 133 607F". It slides on, but won't seat properly.
Also, thanks Turbo for pointing to Eurospec for the spacer. They have a pic online and thats all I needed to confirm.

I have that part for sale if you need it. PM me an offer.... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Lunnzz (Aug 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Turbo_Pumpkin)*

This swap is what I am thinking about doing I found the Cabriolet the 1.8t will go into but after seeing this thread I am now not sure if I want to tackle this. I found a complete 2000 Golf 1.8t that runs for my donor. But I don't have access to a welder so maybe I should rethink this..


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## PlayboyRabbit (Mar 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Lunnzz)*

Got my inlet pipe on and finished painting and mounting up the subframe. Picked up my clutch assembly from Tomas Sport Tuning (Thanks - that is a close fit. It would have taken me a few tries to get that right)
Now on to potential setback:
When I got the motor it had a 16v tensioner which wasn't on there tight. I assumed the cam and crank were still in sync, so marked the belt, put on a spacer and new tensioner and proceeded turning to #1 TDC to do a T-belt change. The motor was binding







So I took off the timing belt turned the cam and crank independently slowly and got them to align where they were supposed to be perfectly(no one groove off bs). But I ended up turning them counter-clockwise slightly a few times without knowing the impact on the VVT lifter until later. So now I potentially have slack between the intake and exhaust cams since there was no oil in the motor.














Now what do I do. I did a hand-crank compression test and got ~60psi in 1,2,3 and a little less in 4. I am assuming that is okay and none of the valves or valve stems is damaged.









So the question is now what do I do? Fill up with oil and crank like 20-30 times by hand hoping to get oil pressure back in the VVT lifter and call it a day? Should I take the valve cover off and make sure the cams are aligned properly and then call it a day?







Or is something more complicated and tedious required? I am on a time constraint and don't want to take the head off unless necessary.
Help appreciated!!!
On to pics:
Subframe cleanedan and primered:








Subframe painted:








Subframe mounted:
















Gas pedal bracket fully welded and painted (Pic is sideways):








Pedal assembly modified with 02A master cylinder mounted (Thanks Kevin and TST):









_Modified by PlayboyRabbit at 2:39 PM 2-13-2009_


_Modified by PlayboyRabbit at 10:37 PM 2-17-2009_


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## PlayboyRabbit (Mar 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Lunnzz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Lunnzz* »_This swap is what I am thinking about doing I found the Cabriolet the 1.8t will go into but after seeing this thread I am now not sure if I want to tackle this. I found a complete 2000 Golf 1.8t that runs for my donor. But I don't have access to a welder so maybe I should rethink this..

I am not going to pretend to be the expert here, this a first and learning experience for me. The welder is not essential if you have a shop fabricate a few things. If you go with 020 tranny(not recommended), you don't need the clutch modified. If you go 02A or 02J, you can have a shop modify the pedals like I did(recommended since its a very close fit under the steering column) and for the subframe you can buy one from Black Forest Industries(nicer than I fabricated) for $200 + tax and shipping or find someone else who sells them or can build you one. And if you go DBC instead of DBW you don't need a bracket for your gas pedal. The links in boostin20v's sig are very helpful and funksoulkitty's build is pretty comprehensive. And overall the tex has its share of experts and local shops usually can answer questions too.


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## PlayboyRabbit (Mar 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (PlayboyRabbit)*

Update:
Had to modify the clutch MC a little to fit properly and tighten everything down, but got it in today along with brake booster and steering column, so that's done. Saturday will get some brake/clutch lines to hook that up to clutch MC.
Still trying to figure out what to do about the following:
When I got the motor it had a 16v tensioner which wasn't on there tight. I assumed the cam and crank were still in sync, so marked the belt, put on a spacer and new tensioner and proceeded turning to #1 TDC to do a T-belt change. The motor was binding So I took off the timing belt turned the cam and crank independently slowly and got them to align where they were supposed to be perfectly(no one groove off bs). But I ended up turning them counter-clockwise slightly a few times without knowing the impact on the VVT lifter until later. So now I potentially have slack between the intake and exhaust cams since there was no oil in the motor. Now what do I do. I did a hand-crank compression test and got ~60psi in 1,2,3 and a little less in 4. I am assuming that is okay and none of the valves or valve stems is damaged.
So the question is now what do I do? Fill up with oil and crank like 20-30 times by hand hoping to get oil pressure back in the VVT lifter and call it a day? Should I take the valve cover off and make sure the cams are aligned properly and then call it a day? Or is something more complicated and tedious required? I am on a time constraint and don't want to take the head off unless necessary to check valves.


_Modified by PlayboyRabbit at 10:29 PM 2-16-2009_


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## PlayboyRabbit (Mar 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (PlayboyRabbit)*

Mounted motor tranny in with all mounts bolted and tightened!!! It's way tighter than I thought it would be vs. the 16v. Downpipe is not gonna be as simple as I thought








Gonna get some parts tomorrow like clutch reservoir / lines etc.
Still wondering about the previous issue with cams...
Pics to follow soon.


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## PlayboyRabbit (Mar 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (PlayboyRabbit)*

Thanks Boostin for your tip regarding the cams...On to intercoolers. I got a couple of them to see if they work. One from a mazda 626 and one from a mazda millenia. Anyone know of someone who has put one in with the least amount of modification required. Ideally I want something that can fit in front of the radiator. Something with a 2.25 inch core thickness.
Thx.


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## PlayboyRabbit (Mar 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (PlayboyRabbit)*

Pics of motor / tranny in:
























Pedal cluster done:








Front brace with motor mount and motor in place:








I will be getting a remote oil filter kit...


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## PlayboyRabbit (Mar 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (PlayboyRabbit)*

Any recommendations / experience with:
1. Oil filter relocation kits. I am looking at a kit from summit racing (Mr. Gasket 7682 - $64.95). Any suggestions.
2. Intercooler. The two that I got earlier won't work without cutting a bunch of the front end. I am thinking about getting a cxracing one off of ebay. I have heard general negative comments about ebay intercoolers, but know that Kevin aka xpalendocious is running one in his 567hp vrt mk2.
The one I am thinking of:
Overall Length: 27"
Core Length: 21"
Height: 6"
Thickness: 2.5"
Inlet: 2.5"
Outlet: 2.5"
Compress Air Flow Rate: <500Cubic Feet/Min, Rated to200-300 Max HP
Working Pressure: 10~25PSI
Pressure Drop: [email protected]; [email protected]
Hot Air Temperature: 32°F~302°F (0°C~150°C)
Material: 100% Aluminum
Design: Bar and Plate
Construction: Machine Cut and Stamped, Hand Welded
Finish: Polished
Net Weight: 10lbs
And its new for about $87 including shipping and taxes. Thoughts or better alternatives?
3. How do I shorten the shifter cables? Is it doable without f'ing it up?
4. Anyone know the dimensions of a corrado radiator L x H x W?
Thx.
Got my clutch reservoir mounted and hooked up? Had to run multiple hoses to the clutch MC, cause i couldn't find anyone who sells brake hose by length. BTW, the reservoir is from a Honda Civic.
Pics to follow later.


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## PlayboyRabbit (Mar 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (PlayboyRabbit)*

Got most of downpipe tacked and bolted.
Pics:
Mike cutting mk4 dp to fit.
















Downpipe tacked and in place. Will have to weld the flex pipe on the horizontal part of dp just in front of the cat. Not ideal but will do:


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## PlayboyRabbit (Mar 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (PlayboyRabbit)*

Okay...got the downpipe done, the axles attached and got my new intercooler. The listing said it was a 2.5" thick intercooler, but its more like 2.75" thick. And it is a bit bigger than I thought. Anyways, need some suggestions on radiator. I am running really tight on space.
Is there a difference in G60 and VR6 Corrado radiators, and are either of those the ones to try?
Also, the shifter cables as expected are long but also not as flexible as I thought they would be once attached to the tranny. I just thought I would have extra slack curved to the passenger side footwell. Any suggestions?
Help appreciated since I only have a week or so to complete the project.
Thx.


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## Turbo_Pumpkin (Feb 22, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (PlayboyRabbit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PlayboyRabbit* »_Anyways, need some suggestions on radiator. I am running really tight on space.
Is there a difference in G60 and VR6 Corrado radiators, and are either of those the ones to try?
Thx.

I used a sirrocco radiator with a cap to eliminate the reservoir and simplify the cooling system. Also got a slim fan setup from Jegs. 
















It's fairly inexpensive and works well... the rad is like $80 or so (new), and the should with fan is like $120ish IIRC. 


_Modified by Turbo_Pumpkin at 7:24 AM 3-4-2009_


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## 16valvedCaddy (Nov 26, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (Turbo_Pumpkin)*

I will be using a G60 rad, its about 30" overall length and the neck comes out of the top. I also will have a water intercooler. I haven't messed with the shifter yet.


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## PlayboyRabbit (Mar 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Turbo_Pumpkin)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Turbo_Pumpkin* »_
I used a sirrocco radiator with a cap to eliminate the reservoir and simplify the cooling system. Also got a slim fan setup from Jegs. 
It's fairly inexpensive and works well... the rad is like $80 or so (new), and the should with fan is like $120ish IIRC. 

_Modified by Turbo_Pumpkin at 7:24 AM 3-4-2009_

How thick is the scirocco radiator? I want to keep the reservoir for added coolant capacity. Thx. 
BTW the bay looks clean on your rabbit. What standalone are you using?


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## PlayboyRabbit (Mar 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (16valvedCaddy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *16valvedCaddy* »_I will be using a G60 rad, its about 30" overall length and the neck comes out of the top. I also will have a water intercooler. I haven't messed with the shifter yet.

Is the G60 radiator about 1.7" thick? And 30" is longer than the rabbit one so will be harder to do I/C piping.


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## Turbo_Pumpkin (Feb 22, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (PlayboyRabbit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PlayboyRabbit* »_
How thick is the scirocco radiator? I want to keep the reservoir for added coolant capacity. Thx. 
BTW the bay looks clean on your rabbit. What standalone are you using?

Not sure the dimensions of the rad off hand, but I'm sure you can find them online. That's not my car. I built that for a friend last fall. It's running stock ECU from a 2003 car with the unitronic 630 file, IE rods, Hemi DBW TB, GT3071 and all custom intercooler and ehxaust that I made. There is pretty much no need for extra capacity in the coolant system. I removed all of the extra stuff from the coolant system including the factory oil "cooler", and the car always runs perfect temp with that rad and fan setup. That rad setup worked extremely well. Just my $.02.


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## Turbo_Pumpkin (Feb 22, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (PlayboyRabbit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PlayboyRabbit* »_
Is the G60 radiator about 1.7" thick? And 30" is longer than the rabbit one so will be harder to do I/C piping.









Get a aluminum Civic radiator if you are having issues with the overall length. the civic DX rads are much narrower and the aluminum rads are probably almost too efficient. I have a friend running one on an ITB setup and he said that his fans rarely if ever kick on because the rad is so efficient.


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## TDIGB69 (Apr 21, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Turbo_Pumpkin)*

Nice , keep up the good work i been trying to do this for the last 7 months and i got like a nother 7 to finish it ! you look like you dont got kids . LOL 
http://www.facebook.com/profil...ef=mf
http://viewmorepics.myspace.co...56576







and am not an expert, thanks vortex http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## PlayboyRabbit (Mar 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TDIGB69)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TDIGB69* »_Nice , keep up the good work i been trying to do this for the last 7 months and i got like a nother 7 to finish it ! you look like you dont got kids . LOL 
http://www.facebook.com/profil...ef=mf
http://viewmorepics.myspace.co...56576







and am not an expert, thanks vortex http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Thanks man. Its been a while and haven't made any progress. I need intercooler tubing and wiring done. Your car looks clean in those pics. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## TDIGB69 (Apr 21, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (PlayboyRabbit)*

Thanks ! keep up the good work ! let me know if i can help!







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## PlayboyRabbit (Mar 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TDIGB69)*

Been driving it around. Its pretty quick. Got a question:
Anyone else using a oil filter relocation kit? My hoses have come loose more than once when revving at ~5500 rpm. Any suggestions or similar experiences? This is not a fun experience...oil all over the place and having to pull over and connect and refill on the side of the road. Thx.
Also thanks to Tim and Kevin for wiring it up and getting it going.


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## valverde (Jul 7, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (PlayboyRabbit)*

i want it to know with what kind of ecu do you install to work with the 1.8t engine ?
regards


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## PlayboyRabbit (Mar 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (valverde)*


_Quote, originally posted by *valverde* »_i want it to know with what kind of ecu do you install to work with the 1.8t engine ?
regards

I am using a 1.8T ecu for now. I'll get it chipped down the road. A lot of guys run stand alone management.


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## SNS1938 (Jan 13, 2014)

I know an old thread, but got any pictures? I'd like to see any you have of the overall car, fit of the engine in place etc. Thanks.


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## T_Dub (Nov 9, 2006)

There are lots of threads with pics of this. Just look around. No need to resurrect old stuff.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

What he^said

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

[email protected] said:


> Best is to get IMMO defeat and we can do it <p><br>pm me for info <p><BR><BR>
> <i>Modified by unitronic2 at 10:50 AM 1-3-2009</i>



great guys, they tuned my old Mark IV I loved that car, definitely take advantage of the IMMO defeat otherwise you'll have a nightmare of a time starting that car


as far as driveshafts go, use the output driveshaft flanges out of a 2.0L 02J as they are 100mm 
the output driveshaft flanges on a 20v 02J are 108mm so they won't bolt up to Mark I driveshafts

I have a full thread here in the hybrid swap forum dealing with transmissions, shifter linkages etc have a read


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

i left unitronic cos the file sucked overall. sure it was awesome WOt...but if you DRIVE the car..it has other requirements lol


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