# 2.0L ABA 1.8 Head Swap FAQ



## pewpewlasers (Jun 12, 2009)

had alot of people iming me about this, so i wrote up guide this covers cis and cis-e , ive never done this on a digi car but im sure this guide will get you pretty damn far on a digi car as well.
Here it is any questions dont hesitant to PM me and ask
you wanna do a 2.0L aba block with a 1.8 on a cis or cis-e car, NO PROBS, here are your needs
-2.0L block out of a mark 3 ( preferably a 94 ABA they have forgeds rods and crank etc)
-2.0l Exhaust Manifold, Dual downpipe style
-2.0L Timing Belt P/N- 048109119D
-2.0L Head Gasket P/N- 037103383
-Block off Plates for the Crank Case Ventilation ( i can make these for half price of what TT charges)
- Assorted Pack of freeze plugs from Advanced Auto
- Block off Plate for Crank position sensor
-A adapter plate for your distributor -- NOTE: I can have all the plates needed machined and rdy for you for about 50 or 60 bucks for all, i have pics
- A table Belt Sander ( get to this later) or some sort of grinding devise
- Some quality Motor Mounts ( Good condition stock ones are fine, cant get a away with beat one so much here)
-Lot of RTV hi temp stuff preferably
- Someone who is good at welding and can make you a down pipe/ exhaust 
- Some time and love
I highly recommend getting a nice size Cam if your running this set up makes worlds of difference, i run a 276 in mine but a 272 would be fine a 288 would be a excellent option just dont expect your car to start right up and idle on the first try haha
I also reccomend getting a bolt kit for your Differential or goin the good route and getting a quaife or and LSD, youll be creating some decent power and lots of torque 020 diffs just suck, free floating for the lose, however if you have a solid tranny and dont beat the dog **** out of it everyday youll be fine









OK HERE WE GO
First (obviously) remove your old 1.8 from your engine bay, I suggest taking the head off first
---insert time you are taking to extract old motor
OK
Now you have your 1.8 L head and block out of the car, take your head over too a table somewhere make sure to whizwheel or clean the surfaces that mate to the headgasket ( duh)
Go ahead and Clean your head up all nice too while your at it with some carb or brake clean
-- Your OLD block What you need
Ok your will need a few things from your old block, you will need your Distrubutor
You will need your Intermediate shaft ( held in with 2, 13mm bolts on side of engine block, has a gear on it similar to your cam gear your timing belt runs over it - just incase you have no clue what im talking about), Alternator, water Pump housing, warm up regulator, Oil sensors from the Oil Filter Housing, clutch flywheel pressure plate etc. and passenger motor mount.
anycase after removing the distributor and the 2 13mm bolts on your Intermidate shaft slide your intermediate shaft out, Do the same to the 2.0L block ( remove intermediate shaft and dsitrubutor)
Take a look at the 2 side by side you will notice the gears are different and also that your 1.8 shaft has this knub on it ( its to balance the shaft EDIT: which as i was corrected had some necessity, but not for this application, sorry sir








)








In any case some people switch the gears which can be a pain in the nuts, so i took the easier route, Simply grind the Knub on your 1.8 Shaft down with a bench sander or w/e works, just make sure u keep turning it as you sand/ grind so it doesnt get too haggard
The reason you must grind this down is because this Knub will hit the connecting rod in your 2.0l, you dont have to grind it down a ton either if your unsure if you have grinded enough simply put the shaft in your 2.0L block and turn it while you crank the motor over, if it hits, keep on grinding if it doesnt, give it one more good grind around just to play it safe








- Now that your done with that whole ordeal, bolt your 1.8 Shaft into your 2.0L block, make sure the seal is on straight ect, dont bolt your shaft pulley back on yet.
- Change your water pump housing from your 1.8L to your 2.0L should be 4 16 or 18 mm bolts cant rlly remember.
put your water pump and water pump pulley on or geta new one and install it
- The Oil cooler, all ABA blocks come stock with an oil cooler, if your 1.8 had A/C you should alrdy have an oil cooler and the correct hoses, if not you need the water pump housing hoses from a 84 gti that had A/C and an oil cooler ( not sure on the P/N here ill find out tho)
Install your Oil pressure sensors to your oil filter housing on the 2.0L block, if there is no space just take any of the bolts out of the top of the housing and thread your sensor in, i reccomned putting the spaded sensor off to the left on the lower section for some clearance.
Ok so now you got your sensors in, water pump on and coolant lines hooked up from your Water pump housing to your oil cooler. Now its time to block some stuff off
Youll notice this big black Plastic conglomerate on the front of the 2.0L block, un blot the whole deal carefully make sure to not lose the bolts or drop them in the engine.
Once this is removed well start with the easy one first, You should notice on the left hand side of where you removed your big plastic vent crap there is a Circle, Open up your pack of Assorted Freeze plugs and just find on the fits but is just barley too big, go ahead and grind some of it down till it seems as though it will fit snug, RTV the christ around the edge of the freeze plug you have chosen and put it in the hole, a peice of wood and a hammer may be nessecary to get it in flush, remember you want a nice tight fit.









Alright now its time for some custom machined crapola, Your choices here are either from here
http://www.techtonicstuning.co...3.135, for front crankcase ventalation block off(65$)
http://www.techtonicstuning.co...3.140, your distributor adapter ring, (30
$)
TT doesnt make a block off plate for the Crank Position sensor, however if your block has the crank postion sensor still in it you can just keep it in there and cut the wire or hide it or keep it for a later stannd alone set-up
thats just the one plate or you can PM me or call me and i can get them made up for you, 60 bucks for all 3 or 50 for the 2.
Lets continue assuming you have all your plates ready
If you ordered the fancy TT one put the gasket in place with some rtv and bolt it down, if you dont have theirs, simply rtv the edges and bolt it on, easy peasy.
Now bolt your warm-up regulator to the block off plate, dones.
( my camera sucks but this is my plate with warm up reg bolted on sorry :*()








Next Install your distibutor adapter ring, get your self some paper gasket from an auto parts store ( unless you bought TTs or course which come with one) cost is about 3 bucks for a sheet, cut a thin gasket out to fit around the ring, not too think or your distriburtor wont seat right and wont spin your oil pump, I myself didnt even use a gasket on mine but the choice is yours.
anycase set your ring down in your distributor housing, now insert your distributor and tighten it down, after doing this go ahead and take a 19MM and sping your intermidiate shaft to ensure the gears are in place and your distributor turns.
Alright so we got block offs, intermediate shaft, distributor, water pump housing, coolant hose to the oil filter housing and oil pressure sensor on the oil filter housing installed, Back to your Head for your block is now rdy to go.
IF I DIDNT MENTION EARLIER, sorry i assume some things people know to do already, make sure the mating surface from block- head is all cleaned up and sanded down on your block as well.
- TO THE HEAD
This set up runs about 10:1 to 11:1 compression, in order to get the 11:1 youll have to take your head to a machine shop and get it cut as far as u can get it cut. I did this however it is not necessart what-so-ever.
After your head is all cleaned up and your coolant necks are reinstalled etc, go ahead and install your 2.0L exhaust manifold ( hopefully you got new exhaust gaskets you cheap skates! there 5 bucks for all of em) go ahead and bolt her on, if you took your intake manifold off go ahead and put on your new gasket ( again its 3 dollars come on) and reinstall your intanke manifold.
Alright now that all that is on your free to mate the head to your block, NOTE: dont try and do the head bolt torques with engine sitting out of the car because itll never happen, for obvious reasons, and case put your head gasket down on your block drop the head down so it sits on the pins then put your head bolts, dont tighten them all the down obiously just enough to hold the head secure.
ALERTS**









As circled in this pic ( once again sorry i know u can barley tell) youll notice that your head doesnt 100% line up right there, this is nothing to worry about whatsoever so dont think you did something wrong








once that is done go ahead and unbolt the 6 bolt flange that holds your dual downpipe on your exhaust manifold as for you will NOT be able to use it, Now you have some options here, if you have access to a lift, a shop, a welder and some pipe and pipe bending you can make yourself your own downpipe, However were not gonna experiment with this till the motor is back in the car ( for obvious clearance reasons)
Now go ahead and bolt up your clutch flywheel and pressure plate to your 2.0L block etc, Mate your Transmission and so on.
Bolt your motor Mount and mount bracket on. OK
ALRIGHT so unless i read through this and decided i missed something your engine is ready to be put back into your car.!!!
Im spoiled and have a lift either case it is much easier to raise the engine up from underneath the car and bolt it in place.
This i cant rlly help ya with but just go ahead get it in the and secure somehow







.
Once the engine is in place go ahead and torque your head bolts down to the 2.0L Specifications 
1. 30 ft/lbs.
2. 44 ft/lbs.
3. Turn additional 90°
4. Turn additional 90°
This is the Bolt pattern, Pic too big for Vortex sorry for the Link
http://i14.photobucket.com/alb...r.jpg

Ok now your head is all tourqued down and such so go ahead and install your Valve cover and valve cover gasket, go ahead and start hooking things back up. We'll get to the exhaust LAST
Once you have everything mostly back together its time to tackle your timing, which isnt too far off from your old normal timing procedure.
If your engine has the OT mark for cam timing, go ahead and set it just slightly below the O/T (toward the rain tray is what i mean by below BTW)
EDIT* If your Car is timed by the dimple on the back side of the cam gear, where you are to line it up to the side of the valve cover, set it just above the valve cover








Set your crank to tdc using your timing mark on the flywheel via the plug in the transmission.








once thats all set go ahead and put ur timing belt on and tension it down ( you should be able to turn the belt about 180 degrees if its tight enough). Go ahead and adjust your distributor timing but loosing the 13mm nut and setting it on the mark, firing order should be 1-3-4-2
NOW FOR THE FUN PART, probably the most costly part of the whole ordeal in my opinion unless u can build your own exhausts.
If you lack the resourses to build your own exhaust you can always buy the manifold that TT sells, at 300 Bucks its a little steep but hey i guess some people got pockets








http://www.techtonicstuning.co...1.222
Not that the Downpipe MUST GO STRAIGHT DOWN or you will hit your steering rack, in anycase once you get your downpipe woes figured out go ahead and bolt it on, then finish your exhaust from the cat back however you please, or put no cat and go for some straight pipe action, the choice is yours.
NOTE: IF YOU BUILD AN EXHAUST AND PLAN ON LOWERING YOUR CAR SOMEDAY OR IT IS ALRDY LOWERED TO LARGEST PIPE WIDTH IS 2 1/4, otherwise it will rub where the exhaust comes up over the rear beam on the suspension, ive known some people to work around this and run 2 1/2 but wasnt worth the headache to me.
HOPEFULL FOR SUCCESS.
For some astranged miracle evertime ive done this the car started right up the first time ( o do make sure you have at least 91 octane in your tank or itll run like total dog ****)
If for some reason yours doesnt wanna start go ahead and re check your timing till its about right.
soon as she fires up shell sound glorious and youll be happy as pie, go ahead and adjust the distrubutor while its running to get your idle set, use the idle air bypass screw for any fine asjustments ( except cis-e)
go take her for a spin and enjoy the fun









RANDOM NOTES AND THINGS TO BE AWARE OF:-
This setup has a pretty good ammount of torque sometimes even with good stock motor mounts, things can vibrate themselves free. Make sure the 13mm nut on the distributor is as Tight as possible, if you notice a small drip of oil from underneath the car after a few days dont freak out, geta 10mm and retighten your oilpan bolts, only happened to me once haha maybe youll have good luck.
But there you have it I hope this was helpful for those wanting to try this, is not and this made no sense to you, Im sorry that i have failed you








If you have any questions dont hesitate to PM me, i check my pms everyday at random times.
GL HF 
_Modified by pewpewlasers at 9:12 AM 12-6-2009_


_Modified by pewpewlasers at 11:47 AM 12-6-2009_


----------



## WaterWheels (Aug 14, 2005)

*Re: 2.0L ABA 1.8 Head Swap FAQ (pewpewlasers)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pewpewlasers* »_ Take a look at the 2 side by side you will notice the gears are different and also that your 1.8 shaft has this knub on it ( its to balance the shaft which VW later realized was ****ing pointless and stopped doing it)


How about the reason it is there is to operate the fuel pumps used on carbureted versions of this engine block and not for any balance thing? And that as carburators became used less and less the "lobe" was no longer needed and they stopped installing them. Sound about right?


----------



## pewpewlasers (Jun 12, 2009)

*Re: 2.0L ABA 1.8 Head Swap FAQ (WaterWheels)*

someone is fiesty, didnt mean it to be a whole attack on VW, but you have a valid point and are correct, i retract my statement sir


----------



## VWguyBruce (Dec 3, 1999)

*Re: 2.0L ABA 1.8 Head Swap FAQ (WaterWheels)*

Nice post, my two cents.
*Freeze Plugs and Valve Stem Seals*
I've noticed recently that CarQuest has been stocking a good number of Euro parts these days at competitive prices. I got my metric freeze plug from them for just over a buck and valve stem seals for .60 each. Parts were in my hand by lunch the following day. VW couldn't come close to that. My local CarQuest gets their parts from the same distributor as the foreign parts stores. YMMV
*Exhaust Manifold*
Any 8V dual outlet exhaust manifold will work for this application. The downpipe from the MK3 is longer and will eliminate clearance issues.
*Head Gasket*
Not sure if the OP's part number for the head gasket is the one for the 2.0 16V motor but that's the one I use. There are two different types, a fiber gasket and a metal gasket. I ask for the gasket from a 91-92 2 litre 16V GTi/GLi. Fiber gasket is the cheapest.
*Cylinder Head*
Do your own valve job. You can do a pretty thorough cleanup on your head in your own garage. If the motor was smoking heavily before dissasembly you may want to replace the guides on your exhaust valves, if the heads smokes a little or only on startup you may be able to get away with valve stem seals, you're call. 
- I clean the head before AND after disassembly as I prefer to work on clean parts. Just make sure your parts are clean before final assembly. Purple Power soak or similar degreaser, car wash pressure washer, scrub brush, repeat until clean.
- Disassemble head. Organize bits by cylinder number with an empty egg carton. Mark your valves with a Sharpie(silver works great on dark parts) by cylinder so you match your valves to their perspective guides on reassembly, you want to match wear patterns on these parts. A telescoping magnet and a scribe are handy to remove valve keepers. You can loosen keepers by using a 02 sensor socket and a hammer. Give each valve on the keeper/retainer/spring end good whack, loosens the keepers.
Build this ingenious tool: http://www.pureluckdesign.com/vw/vsc/index.htm You need to place something under the valve(between the top of the valve and the bench) so your spring will compress. I used a rubber plug out of my sons swimming pool, about the size of the valve, folded up cardboard will even work. You'll understand it when you actually do this step.
- Purple Power soak or similar degreaser, car wash pressure washer, scrub brush, repeat until clean. Now, decide if you want a machine shop to do some port and polish work on your head, there are also several DIY port and polish pages on the web, it's up to you. 
- Lap your valves. You need lapping compound and the lapping tool http://www.toolsusa.com/asp/it...eBase, cheap. Here's a video, there are a bunch on the web: http://videos.streetfire.net/v...2.htm You're matching the valve seat surface to the lip of the valve to improve the seal.
- Replace valve stem seals, install tool works well but you can use a deep well socket that sits on the shoulder of the seal.
- Use a wire wheel on a drill motor or bench grinder to remove carbon deposits from valves. You can spray some degreaser on them ahead of time but a wire wheel will get it all off. 
- Reassemble head, use some motor honey(thick a$$ oil) or assembly lube(more or less lithium grease) on valve stems and lifters. Now's the time you can spend some $$$ on your head, HD springs, lightweight lifters, titanium keepers, etc, it's up to you. Either way, your head is in better shape than it was before.
I spent around $30 for tools and supplies. I've got enough to do a dozen heads left over. Charge your friends a case of beer for your services.
*Clutch Assembly*
8V pressure plate has enough clamping force with the proper disc. KEP makes a solid disc for the 8V application for around $60. This disc will not slip but it is definitely an "on or off" setup. Good setup for a race car or occasional street car.
Most folks use a stock 16V pressure plate with a stock 8V disc. I've used this setup with good results on a daily driver.
There are also some DIY pressure plates out there I've seen if you're wanting a big amount of clamping force. You can drill the rivets out of the springs on multiple 8V pressure plates. You can then stack three springs on top of each other and bolt it all together with Grade 8 hardware ending with a monster custom pressure plate. Again, YMMV. 
*Initial Startup*
By a $10 oil change kit from your local parts store. Get the motor running and allow it to idle for about 20 minutes. THEN change your oil to whichever mix you prefer. This gets any bits of metal, dirt, assembly lube and the like OUT of your motor. You'd hate to spin a bearing after all that hard work right?
Plan your work and don't rush. You can do this stuff, it's not rocket science. Honestly, who else can you really trust to work on your car but yourself?


----------



## vr2jetta (Dec 16, 2007)

*Re: 2.0L ABA 1.8 Head Swap FAQ (VWguyBruce)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pewpewlasers* »_
You will need your Intermediate shaft ( held in with 2, 13mm bolts on side of engine block, has a gear on it similar to your cam gear your timing belt runs over it - just incase you have no clue what im talking about)
IF I DIDNT MENTION EARLIER, sorry i assume some things people know to do already, make sure the mating surface from block- head is all cleaned up and sanded down on your block as well.



If you people dont know this stuff all ready, I wouldnt suggest doing something this involved. 
This topic has been brought up here a lot lately and its nice to see someone taking the time to do a write-up to answer some questions. I have been thinking of doing this lately also so its nice to have a place to discuss the do's and dont's.

_Quote, originally posted by *VWguyBruce* »_
*Exhaust Manifold*
Any 8V dual outlet exhaust manifold will work for this application. The downpipe from the MK3 is longer and will eliminate clearance issues.

So the aba downpipe will bolt in and work with no modification when used with any dual manifold?


_Quote, originally posted by *VWguyBruce* »_*Head Gasket*
Not sure if the OP's part number for the head gasket is the one for the 2.0 16V motor but that's the one I use. There are two different types, a fiber gasket and a metal gasket. I ask for the gasket from a 91-92 2 litre 16V GTi/GLi. Fiber gasket is the cheapest.


So....is the one you use the metal or fiber one? I see you use the 16v one but is that the metal or fiber? Cheapest quality or price? Are you aware if either is thicker/thinner?


----------



## VWguyBruce (Dec 3, 1999)

*Re: 2.0L ABA 1.8 Head Swap FAQ (vr2jetta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vr2jetta* »_
If you people don't know this stuff all ready, I wouldn't suggest doing something this involved.

What could happen??







Best way to learn is to screw it up a couple times. Really though, any ham-fisted, slack-jawed VW guy can do this swap successfully. After my first swap, I wondered why I hadn't done it sooner.


_Quote, originally posted by *vr2jetta* »_
So the aba downpipe will bolt in and work with no modification when used with any dual manifold?

From what I've seen. There is one downpipe out there that has a fixed flange that wouldn't line up to my exhaust, not sure what it was off of. Maybe a later model MK3.

_Quote, originally posted by *vr2jetta* »_
So....is the one you use the metal or fiber one? I see you use the 16v one but is that the metal or fiber? Cheapest quality or price? Are you aware if either is thicker/thinner?









I use the fiber gasket since it's the cheapest in terms of price. Not sure of the thickness, maybe someone else can speak to that. I guess if you were going to go with boost, the metal gasket may be better. Purely my speculation. It's about 3X the price last I checked.


----------



## pewpewlasers (Jun 12, 2009)

*Re: 2.0L ABA 1.8 Head Swap FAQ (VWguyBruce)*

i believe you can use the dual down pipe in a MK2 with little clearance issues u may just have to cut it back a bit and weld in a flex pipe, on A1 chasis though the dual down pipe doesnt clear the steering rack and some shift linkage.
Ill take of pic of what i did to mine when i get some time this week.
I just unbolted to dual downpipe and cut it off directly flush with the 6 bolt flange, welded 2 peices of pipe straight down and had them connect at the flex joint, then just made my own cat back.
The exhaust is really the biggest pain in my opinion unless you got 300 bucks to blow, but if your 8v currently HAS the dual downpipe manifold installed then u dont need to do anything, just bolt it up and have a nice day









Yeah i saw alot of discussion about this so i decided to do a write up about it to perhaps help some people out who really wanted to try it, as long as you have another car to drive to work and can do this in your spare time you should be able to succed.
Speaking of which made and edit concerning timing on CIS cars where your time mark is set to the side of the Valve Cover, forgot to mention it.


----------



## vr2jetta (Dec 16, 2007)

*Re: 2.0L ABA 1.8 Head Swap FAQ (VWguyBruce)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VWguyBruce* »_From what I've seen. 

Thats what I figured. Ive done 2 vr swaps and used all the stock vr exhaust back to the cat and have had no clearance issues. The first swap used mk3 jetta exhaust and the 2nd was b3 passat. Both worked fine.

*EDIT* What timing are you guys running? Stock? Retarded? Advanced?


_Modified by vr2jetta at 2:32 PM 12-6-2009_


----------



## VWguyBruce (Dec 3, 1999)

*Re: 2.0L ABA 1.8 Head Swap FAQ (pewpewlasers)*

I should've also mentioned that my experience is based on the MKII platform. I forget that everyone doesn't drive a MKII.








Flex pipe is also a good idea, there's some pretty cheap ones advertised on here. In the neighborhood of $10 I think?


----------



## vr2jetta (Dec 16, 2007)

*Re: 2.0L ABA 1.8 Head Swap FAQ (VWguyBruce)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VWguyBruce* »_ I forget that everyone doesn't drive a MKII.










I do it too, I just assume everyone knows what is the coolest VW ever. LOL!


----------



## pewpewlasers (Jun 12, 2009)

*Re: 2.0L ABA 1.8 Head Swap FAQ (vr2jetta)*








I <3 my 84 GTI, but now that i think about it, most VWs with sub frames dont have exhaust clearance issue on most swaps.
A1's just has a mess of shift linkage and a manual rack and 4 god damn motor mounts.
I do kinda wish i had mk2 4 door golf, i love 4 doors dunno why


----------



## newguy99 (Jul 2, 2009)

*Re: 2.0L ABA 1.8 Head Swap FAQ (pewpewlasers)*

Awesome thread! I'm starting mine right after Xmas. just waiting on parts right now


----------



## shmabs (Sep 8, 2009)

*Re: 2.0L ABA 1.8 Head Swap FAQ (pewpewlasers)*

Thank you very much for this write-up, it's literally EXACTLY what i have been looking for. 
One more thing added to the to-do list, and of course, parts i now need list.
Mike


----------



## WaterWheels (Aug 14, 2005)

*Re: 2.0L ABA 1.8 Head Swap FAQ (pewpewlasers)*

Fiesty you say? If by “feisty” you mean aggressive instead of some other adjective like spirited or energetic, then you would be wrong. What you said about the intermediate shafts seemed purely “made up” in my opinion and went beyond creative justice when writing an article. Call it the “Scorpion and the frog” syndrome if you like, but I just had to correct it.


----------



## vr2jetta (Dec 16, 2007)

*Re: 2.0L ABA 1.8 Head Swap FAQ (WaterWheels)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WaterWheels* »_ but I just had to correct it.

I would have had to correct him too if you didnt. Its just one more bit of info that eveyone should know. Some people arent even aware VW made a mechanical fuel pump.


----------



## pewpewlasers (Jun 12, 2009)

*Re: 2.0L ABA 1.8 Head Swap FAQ (vr2jetta)*

hi5 too you


----------



## Peter_M5 (Jan 16, 2005)

please dyno this set up! I'm guessing horsepower is the same but torque is about 120 ft lbs what does the butt dyno say?


----------



## Jettaboy1884 (Jan 20, 2004)

*Re: (Peter_M5)*

Just a heads up: The 2.0L exhaust manifold found on most Mk3 cars will not work with the counterflow head, unless you heavily modify (hack up) the flange. It's easily identifiable because it looks like it's made from stamped steel. (Whereas the correct manifold to use is the Mk2 dual outlet, made of cast iron).
Now, I have seen some early Mk3's with the cast iron manifold, which is the same as the Mk2 dual outlet 8v manifold, and will work fine.
Here's the problem with the typical Mk3 manifold:








Bolted up to a counterflow head; notice the flange partially blocks the intake ports:


----------



## mk2gtilover (Dec 5, 2007)

word up. Nice write up man.


----------



## ibblkman (Nov 9, 2009)

*Re: 2.0L ABA 1.8 Head Swap FAQ (pewpewlasers)*

hi there sorry to beat a dead horse... but this is my position....i have a 85 golf GLC that i fought with for a bit. had timing issues, electrical issues. the wiring in the engine compartment was fu...., well lets just say it was undesireable. the doors were broken it some form. i purchased it from some kid knowing that i was going to have to fix some things. good thing about the car was that the body was solid. so after new brake, suspension, rims and rubber, lights, interior, some wrench time and the typical tuneup parts she runs fantastic. then it started to act stupid and die on me. so went and picked up a 95 golf CGG( thats what the ownership says). then a 94 golf CGI. i put the CGI on the road and looked for a donor for the MK2. found a 86 jetta wolfb. now having 4 VW and my 80 trans am my wife is a bit... came close to having to sleep in the garage. so now comes the question. 
out of the 3 cars...95 golf 85 golf and the 86 jetta, what combo of part do i need for the swap your talking about? i want to redo the 85 golf. right now i have a ported and polished head(1.8L) with new valves and a g60 cam, header, an after market coil with a stainless magnaflow catback 2.25", adjustable coilovers . 
i guess the biggest questions are tranny, axel sizes( when the size change was) and i did not see much on the wiring. with all of that being said and my apology for such a long read. any info would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Road Boss (Jul 16, 2004)

*Re: 2.0L ABA 1.8 Head Swap FAQ (pewpewlasers)*

Great write up! This is something for my tool box. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## ABA Scirocco (May 30, 2001)

*Re: 2.0L ABA 1.8 Head Swap FAQ (Road Boss)*

A lot of what's been covered in this thread can also be found at my website. For those of you doing this with in a CIS-e or Digi car, I'd recommend against using an adapter for the distributor not because there's anything wrong with them but because it's so easier to to  convert the ABA distributor work is the CIS-e knock sensor system or digifant ignition system, much easier in fact than installing the adapter, I've done it both way so I know.


----------



## ibblkman (Nov 9, 2009)

*Re: 2.0L ABA 1.8 Head Swap FAQ (ABA Scirocco)*

hay there your links not working. anyway i can get that info from ya? i'm going to do the swap and have everything but the block off plates( not made yet). i read it a couple of times but was hoping to save it for referance


----------



## ABA Scirocco (May 30, 2001)

*Re: 2.0L ABA 1.8 Head Swap FAQ (ibblkman)*

My website's down (temporarily I hope), is there anything in particular you help with?


----------



## ABA Scirocco (May 30, 2001)

*Re: 2.0L ABA 1.8 Head Swap FAQ (ABA Scirocco)*

Website's back up. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dogginfox (Feb 23, 2008)

*Re: 2.0L ABA 1.8 Head Swap FAQ (ABA Scirocco)*

Working on this Exact Swap with a few minor differences
Thanks for all the Info
Hoping to have both motors out of the cars by the end of the day and figure out what parts need to be replaced. This swap seems simple enough and cheap enough to begin with but once you start taking parts off and replacing gaskets and worn out parts it gets pretty pricey pretty fast IMO. Looks like im about to spend close to $600 on gaskets, cam, water pump, seals, bolts, ect.
O well I should have known....after all it is a VW


----------



## ibblkman (Nov 9, 2009)

*Re: 2.0L ABA 1.8 Head Swap FAQ (dogginfox)*

i'm getting ready to dive into this swap too. have it all now, and i just bought a 85 GTI to do it to. yaa it was cheap to. going to be so sick when im done. just have to get the 2.0 block back from the shop( bored out .030). going to kill my buddys mazda. just looking for some strip rubber now, anybody....?


----------



## staticdrop (Mar 5, 2010)

okay my only problem is what coolant hoses to use. my 1.8 has no oil cooler but my aba does. 
i need 84 gti hoses???


----------



## staticdrop (Mar 5, 2010)

and why do you need your water pump housing and your intermediate sprocket?? sorry just curious.


----------



## Ziptied (Dec 1, 2009)

awesome write up, answered all my questions:thumbup:


----------



## stemiched89 (Jun 26, 2006)

*FV-QR*

will a header for an aba in a mk2 fit this combination?


----------



## mafiaman52991 (Jun 29, 2009)

you cannot use a ABA exhaust manifold it must be a mk2 dual outlet they dont have that flange there blocking the intake ports,for the downpipe you can use a mk3 dual oulet but you will need to get a downpipe spaer bfi sells these i think, i chose to just make a custom dp but i also have access to a welder, TT sells all the block off plates and feeze plugs in a kit, as well as the distributor spacer and instead of removing the intermediate shaft you can just change the gear on the original distributor with the gear on the mk3 distributor makes it a lot easier


----------



## mafiaman52991 (Jun 29, 2009)

if you decide to run the aba alternator, that is easy as well just mount the auto tensioner to the block use a vr6 water pump pulley and a mk3 crank pulley, i decided to cut off the v-belt part because i dont have power steering and i guess its like weight reduction  , run a small gauge [welding] wire from mk3 alternator to positive terminal [on starter solenoid] and you should be good to go


----------



## mafiaman52991 (Jun 29, 2009)

mafiaman52991 said:


> you cannot use a ABA exhaust manifold it must be a mk2 dual outlet they dont have that flange there blocking the intake ports,for the downpipe you can use a mk3 dual oulet but you will need to get a downpipe spaer bfi sells these i think, i chose to just make a custom dp but i also have access to a welder, TT sells all the block off plates and feeze plugs in a kit, as well as the distributor spacer and instead of removing the intermediate shaft you can just change the gear on the original distributor with the gear on the mk3 distributor makes it a lot easier


as for using the mk3 electronic distributor as said by ABAscirocco, this is very possible but when i did this swap on my 84 i found it was easier to swap the gear on the original disributor, as vw used the 1.8 w/cis-e from 85-87 i think i dont know for sure and as far as i know coming accross the "knock box" can be difficult, i talked to a few salvage yards in my area, they seemed to know alot about older vws


----------



## mak92vwjetta (Jun 20, 2012)

Are u still making the block off / adapter plates pm me


----------



## httpJared (May 29, 2013)

Are there other head gasket possibilities? I have one that came with the car when I bought it and it is all metal.
I'd like to use it and save some money but when I look online it says it's for a G60, Golf, Jetta etc. Do you guys think it'd work? I can supply the link when I get home from school.
it lines up really well with the one that was in there before I pulled the head.

Edit:
Here's the gasket I have
http://www.new-part.com/product/new...hQiZSxiL1InK_AN8FYebjV9SKZpiGqXJZ8aAq_F8P8HAQ

Here's the one Techtonics says I need
http://techtonicstuning.com/main/in...ct_info&cPath=2_11_5_817_271&products_id=2273

Any help would be appreciated, thank you.


----------



## RARCGTI (Nov 27, 2004)

Hi pewpewlasers do you still have some block off plate and distributor adapter for 2.0 aba ? Regards


----------



## Glennbon (Aug 13, 2018)

*Compression*

Hello
I'm just doing a ABA bottom build with 1.8L CIS head for a 82 Westfailia. I have a couple questions. I have a couple MLS head gaskets and took them apart. They have two .009" steel outer crush shims and a .040" spacer in the centre. I was going to drop the compression by adding a second .040" spacer between the shim gaskets but maybe that's too much drop. Instead I'm thinking just adding the two extra .009 crush shims. 
So I will be adding .018" to a .058" gasket. Will that lower enough to run 87 octane fuel and still have decent timing advance?
I also advanced the cam 4*
Second question should I use the stock 2.0L cam or stick with the 1.8L stock cam? 
Just ready to bolt on the head. 
Thanks


----------



## Butcher (Jan 31, 2001)

With all the hassles of swapping the head and modifying the headgasket, I would recommend to perform your own calculations to find out exactly how much compression will drop. If you rely on someone else and they are wrong, then you got to start all over again. 

https://www.gregraven.org/hotwater/calculators/compression-ratio.html


----------



## Glennbon (Aug 13, 2018)

Well yes. I think an extra .040 drops it to 8.3:1
I'm just simply asking a question since if seems to be a common build. If you don't know the answer why comment?
Swapping the head and reconfiguring a steel shim headgasket is not a hassle. 
But hey thanks for the non constructive input.


----------



## Butcher (Jan 31, 2001)

Sorry, I did not know the right answer, but I attached a link that could give you the right answer. I thought that would help, sorry you thought that link was non constructive.

Maybe in the future that link would help someone.


----------

