# How to solve: intercooler couplings blowing off



## mccula (May 19, 2007)

Searched and couldn't find anything so I made a thread the other day. in hopes this will be added to the FI faq's, here is what I can contribute:
The problem: Intercooler piping is coming apart at the couplings. (IC Couplings, for this thread means: Blue, red, or whatever color rubber or silicone pieces to hold two IC pipes together.)
Here is a picture, stolen from powerlabs.org, to show referance:








In this setup, the red is obviously the IC coupling, holding the two pieces of IC pipe together. The problem we are discussing here is when one of the two (or possibly both) of the IC pipes "blow out" of that coupling.
What is causing it: Obviously, boost. It can happen, for example, on a stock turbo 1.8t making stock boost, a chipped 1.8t, a custom VR-T setup, or whatever. If you have a cheaper IC piping kit, than the actual components may be causing the problem. It could be the couplings themselves, the IC piping at that section, or the clamps used to tighten the couplings.
SO, now that the problem and cause is laid out in detail, let's discuss the methods we can take to fix it. I will list these in order of cost- from free (cost nothing but a little work), to the most cost.
1. If the ends of your IC piping are NOT bead-rolled (mine weren't: what this means is that the ends of your piping will have a "roll" or edge" to them- which helps the coupling to grab onto the pipe), than it can be VERY important to have this done or DIY. I did mine myself, as I have aluminum piping, which is easy to bend. What I did is take the piping section out that was causing me trouble, and took a square-ended pliers to it. After bending the edge of the piping out a little (in essence, creating a lip for the coupling and clamps to grab on too), I would rotate around the end of the piping until the entire edge had a lip. I repeated for both sides of the pipe, re-installed it, and haven't had a problem since.
You could also use a bead-roller, if you or a friend has one, or pay a shop to do it.
Here is a picture of bead-rolling on the ends of a section of piping:








2. T-Bolt Clamps: If you have 'worm-groove' hose clamps, it may be the cause. I strongly recommend upgrading to T-Bolt clamps. Here is a picture for referance of these T-Bolt clamps:








THIS is a 'worm-groove' clamps, and THIS is what you don't want to be running on your setup:








3. New couplings themselves: If you have cheap rubber couplings (common on lower end kits, like ebay kits) they may have worn out and stretched. This causes them to weaken, and thus, loose their ability to hold the two pipes together. Purchase better couplings from someone who specializes in turbos, such as kinetic.
4. Have someone weld the pipes: If you can get someone to weld your 
pipes together, this will obviously be both stronger and better than running any kind of couplings. The problem here is that if you go this route, it can be hard to get the pipes in and out of the engine bay is need be.
Here is a picture for referance, just so you get the idea: Notice how the piping is welded where you would normally use clamps and couplings.








(IMO, this is the strongest and cleanest looking option of them all.)
5. Replace the section completely: Get a new section of IC piping in the same OD and ID of your current piping to replace your troublesome section. (If you do this, MAKE SURE it has bead-rolled ends!!!!!!!)
6. Replace IC piping altogether- I feel this is completely unnessecary, but felt I should at least list it as an idea.
Other ideas: Somebody suggested cleaning the ends of the pipe and then spraying hairspray on them. I used to do this with my handle bar grips when I rode BMX and I know it works. I'm not sure it would solve any problems in this sense, however... it is worth a try before anything else, I guess.
Feel free to add to this, I created it because it's a somewhat common problem, and I thought my little contribution to the vortex might help.


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## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: How to solve: intercooler couplings blowing off (mccula)*

I know this is a very expensive option but I have used Wiggins clamps in the past with great success but its out of the rhelm of affordability of most of the people in here.


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## R32EEEK (Oct 13, 2004)

*Re: How to solve: intercooler couplings blowing off (KubotaPowered)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KubotaPowered* »_I know this is a very expensive option but I have used Wiggins clamps in the past with great success but its out of the rhelm of affordability of most of the people in here.









Those are badass, but at several hundred $$ each AND the requirement to weld end pieces on, you're right they're out of the realm of most.
OP: for the "free" section, add a thorough cleaning of both the pipe end and the inside of the coupler with denatured alcohol can help them bite better. T-Clamps are definitely the way to go.
I've dealt with standard 3-ply silicone couplers of all types, and find that the ones sold by zena racing are slightly longer (by about a third of an inch) than the 3" standard that almost all other silicone couplings come in. This can be handy when, for instance, a t-bolt clamp is used on both sides of the coupling (t-bolts are typically a little wider than worm-groove) and you need just a hair more length on the coupling to get both clamps to bite correctly.
-rick


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## evil-e (Aug 15, 2005)

*Re: How to solve: intercooler couplings blowing off (R32EEEK)*

If you've got a welder capable of welding whatever material your boost piping is made of, you can turn the heat/speed down and weld a "bead" on the ends of the pipes. If any of the welds aren't perfect, you can simply grind them down so they are smooth. The guy who built my front mount intercooler for my old MKIV had a fully equipped shop with a bead roller etc. and he's the one who told me to do the welded "bead trick" if I ever re-did my boost tubing. I did re-route my piping eventually and ran it for a while w/o doing a lip, but I did end up blowing off hoses a couple of times even with T-bolt clamps at 19psi. After welding, they held no problem. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: How to solve: intercooler couplings blowing off (evil-e)*


_Quote, originally posted by *evil-e* »_If you've got a welder capable of welding whatever material your boost piping is made of, you can turn the heat/speed down and weld a "bead" on the ends of the pipes. If any of the welds aren't perfect, you can simply grind them down so they are smooth. The guy who built my front mount intercooler for my old MKIV had a fully equipped shop with a bead roller etc. and he's the one who told me to do the welded "bead trick" if I ever re-did my boost tubing. I did re-route my piping eventually and ran it for a while w/o doing a lip, but I did end up blowing off hoses a couple of times even with T-bolt clamps at 19psi. After welding, they held no problem. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

thats what I did on my TDI, with 25PSI and the enigne rocking back under hard acceleration, the top pipe would pull out of the boot even with 2 t-bolt clamps. After a few "tacks" from a mig all the way around it has only come off once since.


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## magics5rip (Mar 17, 2004)

*Re: How to solve: intercooler couplings blowing off (KubotaPowered)*

How about having the tubes beaded on the ends? I don't believe many shops have the machine to do this, so it may be difficult to get it done. 
This link might help a little


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## R411Y3 (May 5, 2006)

spray the pipes with hairspray, its slimey when wet but sticks once dry
T


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## GoKart_16v (Dec 17, 2004)

*Re: (R411Y3)*

U can bead the pipe using the epoxy/tape method...anyone remember the link?


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## vaporado (Aug 14, 2005)

*Re: (GoKart_16v)*

Cant you just flare out the ends of your plumbing?


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## CDJetta (May 11, 2004)

*Re: (vaporado)*

A few easy ways i know of. If you flare the end it could be difficult to get the silicone back on. On top of that some metals are hard to bend.







I used mild steel for my first set of piping. It would have been hella hard to bend.
Also, you don't need a constant bead around the whole pipe. You just need a lip for the t-bolt clamp to snag on. So what you can do with a simple welder (If you can't weld well enough to get a decent bead going), is to just spot weld around the tubing a few times. Like ever .5 inches put a little spot weld dimple.


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## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: How to solve: intercooler couplings blowing off (magics5rip)*


_Quote, originally posted by *magics5rip* »_How about having the tubes beaded on the ends? I don't believe many shops have the machine to do this, so it may be difficult to get it done. 
This link might help a little

Yeah mine are beadrolled and welded and i still have problems sometimes


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## magics5rip (Mar 17, 2004)

*Re: How to solve: intercooler couplings blowing off (KubotaPowered)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KubotaPowered* »_
Yeah mine are beadrolled and welded and i still have problems sometimes

Hmm, I guess the only real way to do it then is to minimize the number of couplers you need; ie weld every seam possible together.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

*Re: How to solve: intercooler couplings blowing off (magics5rip)*


_Quote, originally posted by *magics5rip* »_
Hmm, I guess the only real way to do it then is to minimize the number of couplers you need; ie weld every seam possible together. 

yuppers, narrow the possible problems http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## UBER KUHL (May 16, 2005)

This way works well. My dad did it to some bigger pliars. Its not really necessary to get vice grips.


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## CDJetta (May 11, 2004)

*Re: (UBER KUHL)*

I am so making one of those when my new welder comes in later this week.


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## magics5rip (Mar 17, 2004)

*Re: (UBER KUHL)*


_Quote, originally posted by *UBER KUHL* »_This way works well. My dad did it to some bigger pliars. Its not really necessary to get vice grips.









I like those! Any problem with higher gauge steels? Or just masturbate more and get stronger hands?


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## UBER KUHL (May 16, 2005)

or get longer pliars. Ours worked pretty well with thicker gauge steel, but we mainly used it on the ebay chrome piping.


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## mccula (May 19, 2007)

*Re: (UBER KUHL)*

up up up


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## I6turbo (Apr 14, 2008)

*Re: (mccula)*

If you don't have the tools to put a bead on the end (weld, roll, bend, etc.) you should try simply cleaning the inside of the coupling and the outside of the IC pipe VERY THOROUGHLY with a strong solvent. The best thing I've used was the 100% citrus terpene that is 3M Adhesive Remover Citrus Base (this is also in 3M Adhesive Remover Pen, later name was changed to Sticker and Marker Remover Pen -- you could get enough juice out of a pen to do the job if you can't find the aerosol Adhesive Remover Citrus Base can), but Goo Gone will probably work well. Clean the IC piping, then clean the coupling, and install (may need to install while still wet if the coupling fits tightly over the IC pipe, but if so, give it an hour or so to dry before boosting). You can search the internet and find retailers for these 3M products -- the stuff is handly to have around as an excellent clenaner for other tasks as well.








FWIW, I've been running 30-35 PSI on my Supra for ~6 years and have never had a hose blow off after installing them this way (Greddy slicone couplings, polished 304 SS IC tubing). 


_Modified by I6turbo at 9:41 PM 5-17-2008_


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## JackieMoon (Jun 24, 2004)

*Re: (I6turbo)*

Another cause for the IC piping blowing off is if you are using the couplers to support the weight of the pipes and not just make a seal between the two sides. Having the pipes supported by welding a bracket on and bolting it to something is going to take alot of the stress off the couplers.
This is not something I would have thought of but Jeff and I were talking about this problem last week and he brought it to my attention.


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