# NB build out for Atlanta to Panama Central America



## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Was going to do this under the other thread but would rather keep that one for road trip pics. 
So here goes. Hope you all enjoy and will post back to it with suggestions and comments.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Yes the title is correct. I am putting together a grand trip thru 8 countries and hope to end up in Panama. Two of the countries are quit wild to say the least. 

Since "Ole Yeller" is down for the new timing belt and head job, opps can I say that, I thought I would really take it apart and prep it for this new life adventure. I am going thru about everything on the car and upgrading or renewing it. 

This thread will follow the build out and the trip thru these 8 countries. Southern USA, Mexico, Guatemala, El Salvador, Nicaraqua, Honduras, Costa Rica and Panama. The start date will be when I have completed the build out and am satisfied that all is ready. 

The trip down will be done on one, yes one, fill-up of bio-diesel. I personally will make the bio-diesel so I know it will be correct. That tank will consist of 100 gallons of fuel,on a trailer, plus a full tank in the NB. So no stops for fuel just eats and rest. 

I will literally start at the top of the car and work my way down. New headliner and new antenna to receive AM/FM/CB and GPS/WiFi. Going to try to keep it as non-discript as possible. Try to not attract much attention if possible. One country is in the top 10 for Americans to not be in. From there the interior will get some upgrade to the drivers seat. Then a new A/V system will be installed with moving map ect., plus front and back viewing and recording cameras. New windshield and then to the exterior. 

I now have VR6 suspension with Audi TT 312 mm brakes but hoping to upgrade to an air bag system on all four corners. The LCAs will be swapped out for Audi TT as well as the steering knuckles, with new bearings and ball joints. New 108 mm axles and u-joints of course. 

I will be cleaning up the casting on the head for better flow and cooling. New valves, guides and a regrind. Thinking about a Frank06 stage 2 cam, but not sure yet. I have an new hybred oil pan I will be installing also, with a new oil pickup. New A/C compressor and a new radiator as well. All new hoses and belts of course with the new timing belt kit. Also may use a fluid harmonic balancer, doing research on that now. 
I am now running several mods, engine wise and have 55 watt HIDs installed. 

I have a small boat trailer that I will be modifing for the trip. It will hold the fuel and the supplies that I may need along the way. Of course extra parts and tires. I will be installing a trailer hitch on the NB also. 

Lots to do so follow along as I will be showing all of the build out and the trip in this and several other forums. 

Happy times are here again...... I love being retired finally. 
Richard55


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Here we go time for the build out pics. Ole Yeller is all jacked up and ready to start getting things changed 








Remember to always use jack stands when working under your car, it hurts when one falls on you. lol 








The current brake set up is off a VR6 with the Audi TT 312mm brakes, I will be changing everything over to Audi TT asap, I want the adjustability of the TT. Caster and Camber.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

I pulled the headliner out for two reasons, one to replace the cloth and two to install new antennas. 








Drivers seat is about to be removed and base will have new leather installed. It's out of a VR6 If I remmember correctly. 








My guardian angel for the trip, a broken snowball.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Now to the engine: I pulled the head off as I had stripped the timing belt and now must do a complete head job. All new guides, valves, seals and grind. This was not too smart on my part. Change the belt at the correct mileage. This also amazes me, two bent valves, 7 destroyed lifters and not one scratch on any of the pistons. I will pull the pan and replace it with the hybred pan and will report on the lower end at that time. Look how clean those pistons are, yeah for home made bio-diesel. B100 forever. Yes I make it myself.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Pulled the head completely apart and thought I may as well cleanup the ports and polish them while it is apart and before it goes to the machine shop. 
Hear is a picture of a stock port, there is a lot to clean up in those castings. 








This pic is of the polishing close to the end.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

There are a few differences in the stock spindles as compared to the TT spindles, but the machine shop will solve that. 
The hub surface where the axle nut tightens is different and I am going with the stock NB hubs and this will solve that problem. Stock hubs have a much larger and flat surface for the nut to tighten and the new 108mm axles will work perfectly with these hubs.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Here is the left side TT LCA ready to go to the machine shop for install of new hubs and bearings. Note the tie rod end is lower and sticks straight out compared to the stock NB spindle.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Stamped out LCAs will be gone real soon.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

I did another mod in my ole garage yesterday. It allows us to replace the stock fuel filter with a much cheaper and better spin on fuel filer. Our stock fuel filters filter down to close to 10-15 microns, the spin on filter will filter down to 2 microns. 
Here we go. I started out with a NAPA 4770 fuel filter adaptor and cut it down to size. It will go in the stock fuel filter bracket and will eliminate the fuel "T" as we don't really need it in the south and I sure will not need it on the trip to Central America. 
This first image shows the adaptor and where to start cutting, with a hack saw, for get rid of the three hole mount, again we don't need it, so lets get rid of the excess baggage. 








After cutting the mounting portion off, I ground off the excess to make it better looking lol. 
















I used my belt sander to do the trimming as it was fast, the sander has an 80 grit belt on it and it went fast. I mounted the sander upside down in my vise and just went at it. Please be careful. 








In this picture you can see some of the excess trimmed off. So sand and turn, sand and turn until you are happy with your mount. 








I then painted it glossy yellow, I did a splatter job on it as I messed up the hack saw cutting portion of the mod and ruined the adaptor. I wanted to finish it to show the mod and I will get a new one in the next couple of days, redo it and show the mounting portion at that time. LOL Look at both sides of the adaptor before you cut. A $22.00 mistake.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Was going to do the hybred oil pan install today but decided to do a stealth EGR mod instead. I need to apologize as I only took fotos after the job was completed. :-( I have changed over to videoing all the mods and forgot about the stills. Here is the after fotos. It is very simple the way I did it. Took a hack saw and a dremel and just removed the interior of the egr. I left the shut off plate in place to prevent run a way. I also used two part epoxie to close the shutter valve hole in the bottom of the egr. I did this to create a smooth flow of air thru the egr, it would have really been tumbling if I had left that big hole in the bottom. I will still run the delete plate on the bottom just to be safe. 
















The epoxie is still drying here.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Was going for the front sheet metal today, but saw I needed the car back about 5-6 feet and it was up on the jack stands, so I decided to do the R&I of the hybred oil pan. Here goes. 
First thing you have to do is get all the crap out of the way, lol. Remove the belly pan, right wheel, ect. 
Now down to the real nitty gritty. 
1. remove the two A/C mounting bolts and pry the a/c pump toward the front of the car. 








2. Next the three bellhousing bolts on the drivers side of the oil pan. 








3. Break loose all the 10mm bolts that hold the pan on, don't for get the four hidden ones inside the bellhousing on the drivers side and the ones at the passengers end of the pan. I broke them all loose and got out the trusty drill with the 1/4" adaptor and went to town. 








4. After they are all out, gently pry the pan off the block, slow and easy it will come off. 








5. It's off and here are the gutts. 








6. Chain, oil pump, and sprokets all in great shape. 








7. Two 10mm bolts and R&I with a new oil pickup tube. 








8. Clean off all the old RTV, take your time and get it all off, and install the new pan. 
















9. Check pan to a/c pump clearance and if good you are done. If not loosen the a/c pump and file off until you have enough clearance. 
Another fine job complete. lol


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

I will next pull the front sheet metal off the NB so I have access to the front of the a/c condensor, there is where I will place either the intercooler for the air-air system or the heat exchanger for the water to air sysem. Still up in the air as to which system to go for. Give me your input on both 
Richard55


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

If any of ya'll have friends or family that live along the way and would like a visit from a traveler let me know. This trip is about meeting great people and making new friends. Hope to hear from a lot of ya'll. 
Let me know where to go and where to stay away from. Of course what to see along the way also. 
Thanks


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## Cadenza_7o (Jan 23, 2001)

:thumbup: to you. 

I'm following this thread for ideas.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

About time to get going again. Had the flu, wow what a waste of a few days. 
Next I guess will be the front sheet metal for the intercooler install and the suspension swap over to the Audi TT lca's and spindles, will be installing new bearings and new hubs in the front and in the rear.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Have now decided to go ahead and pull the engine and overhaul the lower end. New main and rod bearings, new oil pump, maybe the BEW upgrade pump, plus clean up the cylinders and hopefully just a hone and new rings. While I have it out probably replace the clutch with the 3+, this will really help when pulling the trailer. 
A lot to do and a short time to get there. lol Wife just came on board and say "go for it", she was a little cautious about all the money. But one thing at a time and it will get done.


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## TightDub (Dec 24, 2003)

opcorn::thumbup:


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Ok Easter is over and now it is time to go back to work. 
I'm going to pull the engine and trans for a complete overhaul of the 1.9 and a good look at the clutch assy. 

First I take out the head light assys., just be carefull of the plastic levers when releasing the H/L buckets. They will break if forced to release. Not going to show this as if you are at this stage of the game you will know how to replace a h/l bulb by now lol

Next, get the car on jack stands and get the wheels off, not its time to get the splash shields out of the way. There are about 14 screws on each side, just keep looking until you have them all.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Now it's time to get the front end off. 
Remove all the nuts in the inner fender well and at the bottow of the rear of the fender, now go for the top bolts that hold the fenders and bumper on. Don't forget the three that are under the front of the bumper, the two turn signals wires, the fog lamp wires, if you have them and the outside temp sensor wire. 








There is also a single screw in each head light bucket that you will take out.








I'm showing these shot after the fact, but before you remove the front assy, tape the seams with a masking tape of some type to prevent scratching the paint up when you are removing the assy.
















Set the assy aside and out of the way. Put it somewhere that will have no traffic near it. If you don't you will hit it and screw it up lol


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Here is what it looks like with all the front assy off. It is easy, don't be scared, just take your time and you will be amazed at the access you will now have to the front end of the car. Room to get at the engine, the front suspension, the radiator assy ect. It's too easy to take off now. lol








Look at the room for a front mount intercooler, way more than I ever thought there would be. yeah!!!!!








The air intake it right there, now is the time to upgrade to the R32 intake if you want to.








It's also time to see if the car was ever in a body shop. I discovered several bolts and nuts that some POS lame body shop worker did not reinstall. I call him a worker as a tech would never do this. Wow what crappy work some shops do. 








My NB at one time had fog lights as the wires are there, just cut, like I said a POS body shop.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Now is a great time to get the soap and water out and clean all the inner fenders and upper frame rails. It looks better and now now junk falling on your head or onto your work. You can also see where I mounted the exciters for my HID 55 Watt head lights.
















Also note that I cleaned the head light buckets up and repainted them. Plus replaced the missing screws.
















I will also go in and re-undercoat the fender wells, better sound proofing.


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## Cadenza_7o (Jan 23, 2001)

Good progress there. Are you gonna upgrade the struts/springs while the fenders are off? 


I tore my NB to this point to replace the radiator and coolant hoses. 












My Mini is designed the same way. What a pain these modern cars are.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

The Bilstein struts and shocks only have about 10k on them and they will be fine. The only reason to change them is if I get a full air suspension for the trip.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

It's time for new Audi TT LCAs, so here goes.
First of course get her up on jack stands and remove the front wheels.








Next remove the rotor locking screw, if you have any size brakes on the car at all it will be bent and a ***** to get out. The torque from the rotor will bend it.








Now remove the two carrier to spindle bolts, remove the calliper and secure it to the spring with some wire of some sort.
















Remove the axle nut and push the axle thru the hub and out of the way.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Next comes the tie rod end, remove the nut, you may need to use a 5mm allen to hold the inner joint from turning while you remove the nut. Now get your trusty tie rod end remover and push the tie rod end out of the spindle.
















Now the three ball joint bolts and retainer from the bottom side of the stock LCA. 








Remove the spindle to strut squeeze bolt and nut, I use a cold chezel to slightly spread the spindle and a copper hammer to remove the spindle from the sturt. Don't kill it, remember to spread it first.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Now the sway bar bolt and just push it out of the way.








Remove the front and rear LCA bolts and nuts and pull the LCA out, wow that was easy. NOT QUIT!!!!
















Here lays a challenge that some of us have come across, the front LCA bolt is held in by a "capture nut" and it breaks loose, what in the heck do you do, replace the cross member? Not quit, go to the hardware store and buy a 1 1/4" round metal hole saw. At about the same height as the front bolt drill a hole in the rear of the front cross member, look two or three times before you drill. Once you have the hole drilled you can reach in remove the old nut and get a new nut, lock washer and bolt and you are good to go again.. Capture nuts suck. I had to do this when I put the TT bushings in my stock LCAs about 10k miles ago. It works great and it will not harm the cross member, but of course consult a structural engineer prior to doing this mod. lol


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Finally, bolt in the new Audi TT LCAs with the adjustable caster and camber and no more crappy front end and with a good alignment your tire are ready to last like they are supposed to last.








Here is something a lot of people overlook and I always wonder why. I have read so many times about frozen bolts and nuts on the front end of these cars, it will not happen if you spend about $5.00 or so and buy some anti-seize lube. I use it on all my front end bolts and nuts and never a problem getting them off and no they do not come loose on me. You do what you want and if one comes loose it is on you, you did't install it correctly.








Thats it for today, new Audi TT LCAs, wow great!!!!


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Another day another bit of work done on the NB build.
Today not a lot of time to work on the car. Other crap came up, lol.
I decided to take the a/c fan assy out of the car to get at the radiator. This can be done in two different ways and of course I chose the hardest just to see why it was the hardest. lol nutty but true.
The easy way is to take the core support out of the car with the radiator and condensor attached to it, but I really didn't want to recharge the a/c so I chose to leave it intact and pull the fans out first and then the radiator from the inside. 
The fans taken out this way is a *****, opps I know I can't say that word. There is so little room between the engine and fans, it's just a real challenge.
First, take the four screws out of the fans support, they are at the four corners of the fans assy.
















Then all the electrics, the two fan control plugs on the drivers side of the radiator.








Next for for the power steering pump assy. Just unbolt it and let it set aside while you are removing the fans. To get to the mounting bolts for the P/S pump you have to take the pulley off. You will need to get a 9mm allen and hold the center of the pump still while taking the three 6mm pulley bolts out. Now remove the 3 mounting bolts that hold the bump in place. 








Follow the P/S lines around the front of the block and around the trans, you will find 3 mounting points for the P/S lines, remove the fasteners. Now the P/S pump is loose and can be moved out of the way when removing the fan assy. 








Now the two a/c pump bolts and hang it out of the way. Don't let it hang on its own weight, these lines are way to expensive to kink.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Forgot to mention, but I hope you realize you need to drain the radiator and take the hoses off prior to removing the fan assy. 
Now you swear and kick things a lot as the fans assy is a very tight fit and takes a lot of turning and tilting to get it to come out, but it will come out with a little effort and patience. 








I then went ahead and removed the two alternator bolts and got it ready to remove. Now is the time to check it out to make sure the brushes are good and it is putting out like a two dollar Wh**e. You do not want to have to replace it a future time, it is a ***** getting to it and getting it out. Remember the manuel trans uses the 120 amp alt and the auto trans uses the 90 amp alt.








You also have to take the serpentine belt idler pulley off to get the alternator out, there is a plastic cap covering the allen mounting bolt, you probably will break it prying it off. No big deal, it will run without it or buy a new one and stick it back on.








You will swear there are more bolts holding the alt in place as it is really a tight fit. There is only two and you must slowly rock it back and forth until it comes loose. This is where I stopped for the night. Alt is still setting between the radiator and block. Tomorrow I will do the dance to get it out. lol


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Well several days have past since I last update this forum and a lot have gone on. So I will try to update you as it progressed.
First thing first, it is spring time in the south and this is the canola field across the street from mi casa.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Now down to work.
First thing after taking the radiator support and raditaor out was to make sure all the electrics were disconnected, keep looking there is always one more.
















It you need to mark each wire and hose as to where it goes. I suggest you number each one and make a master list as to where that number goes. i.e. wire #1 alt. ect.ect. 
Tie back the a/c condensor and the p/s pump. You don't want them getting hung up when you drop the engine out the bottom.


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## Aceituna (Mar 5, 2012)

Man, this sounds interesting, wish I can go with you as an interpreter


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Come on get in and go with me.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

More and more getting done now, loving it. Hey for all of you in the Atl area, I am having a GTG the 27th of this month in Madison Ga. All are welcome to come. I should have parts of the NB there to show how to do some of the mods. May have the short block there to do the tear down to remove the crank and pistons. A show and tell. 
Here is what it all looked like just prior to dropping the motor out the bottom and I do mean dropping. We had it on a small floor jack and did not get it far enough to the trans side, it was way out of balance and crap it went trans first onto the floor. lol it was fine just and eye opener.








This is a pic of it out and what a hole. lol I did not take any pics of the trans and motor on the floor as I was in a kind of panic to see it I had broken anything when it dropped. Pics were the last thing on my mind.








Split the trans from the engine and now for the clean up to start.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

The clean up process starts now and I started with the core support. It looks great now. As you clean these parts and really get hands on you will see an problems with them. My core support is cracked in one spot and I am debating whether to replace it or not. I think it would be ok to run it this way but!
The point is to really clean and inspect the parts as you go.








Next came the trans and was it dirty, as you can see from this pic. Justin and I lift the trans up on my work bench and the process started. If you look closely you will see a large drip pan under the trans and later under the engine. This make clean up of the work area real fast and easy.








The trans cleaned up very nicely and again there is a real benefit for cleaning parts. The trans had a DMF explode on me a few years ago and now I can really see the damage to the bellhousing. Wow it is cracked almost all the way around, but at least three holes clear thru the case. I will take it and have it welded instead of replacing it. This trans is just to sweet to mess with it inside. Have to find a great welder who can do a good job of grounding the trans prior to welding, don't want the syncros messed up. 
You can see a good shot of my shifter mod. It's the red piece on top the trans It shortened the shift up by at least 60%, I love it.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Oh yea, I forgot to tell you this trans has been to hell and back. I broke one of those cheap after market axles a while back and it put a hole in the side of the trans. Just JB Weld it up thinking I would replace it when it started to leak. That was years ago and still no leaks. lol Now is the time to clean the JB Weld up a little.








Shoot I may even paint it to make it feel better lol.








Of course I took the motor mount off the trans and cleaned it up. It's a good idea to bag these bolts and write where the different bolts go, do this on the bag. The bolts are different lenghts. 








Next off with the oil filter and heater bracket and then the clutch assy came off. Did this prior to lifting it onto the bench, wow that motor is heavy.








It's a good idea to mark the relationship of the clutch and pressure plate to the flywheel if you are going to reuse them, they kind of seat themselves together as they wear in. This is a stage 2 set up and it looks almost like new, maybe 20-25% worn. It will go back in with a new throw out bearing.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

This engine amazes me, I broke a TB, it was only at idle, broke 7 of the 8 lifters and broke a small tip off the cam. No damage at all to the pistons, not even a mark of any kind. Great. But again that is why I am comletely tearing the engine down, just to make sure. The crap you see in #2 and 3 is just a bit of stuff from taking it out of the car and dust ect getting in there. The motor is now setting on my bench and is clean'


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

When I took the dog bone off the trans I thought I may as well, do a mod on it. You can pay big dollars for a upgraded dogbone that is stiffer than the stock one, but what if you could do the same or close for only $1.00 yes only $1.00. Here is how and it is easy. You can make it as stiff as you like.
Go to one of the big box stores and buy one square of industrial floor tile. This is all you will need in supplies. Get back home quick and get the sheet metal sissors out. You can use and exacto knife if you don't have the sissors. 
This is a picture of the before and after mod. lol It looks the same as it looks the same lol. This is the after as it is clean.








Unscrew the thru bolt at the top of the dogbone. Please have a good set of wood clamps handy as you will not get it back together with out something like these. You are looking for the rubber part of the dogbone. Use this as the template for you inserts. It has an indent on the bottom and this is where you will place your pieces of cut out tile. Cut at least two pieces of tile to fit inside this piece of rubber. You can use as many as you like, the more you use the stiffer it gets. Less rebound on the rubber. I use two pieces as this is where I like the feel. 
















Before shot








After shot.








Now get the wood clamps out and squeeze it together and start the thru bolt. The capture nut that the thru bolt attaches to will go in two ways. Look at it prior to starting the mod. It will go in both ways but the bolt will only start when it is in correctly. So if you are cussing and can't get it started this is why. Now you are stiff again lol








Finished mod all cleaned up and ready to install.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

While I have the engine torn down I decided to mark the flywheel. It is a 14 lbs 228mm and was told it had no markings on it. The flywheel only will go on one why so I know where TDC was by piston position. I got a jewelry loop out and had a good look and there was a very faint set of lines on the flywheel showing 15,12,9,6,3 and 0 degrees. I took a chisel and scored the edge of the flywheel for future timing. I had to take a micrometer to get the correct "0" position as the "0" and "3" degree marking could not be seen.measure between 12 and 6 degrees, which I could make out and then from 6 to 0. This is where I punched the mark


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

I like clean things so as I am going I am cleaning. Here is the oil heater, the oil filter and the engine block. The heater and the block are as clean as new. I like that easy to put back into the car that way. It looks great also. 








The heater oil filter housing will be as clean as the heater when it goes back in. 
















this is a picture of the engine compartment when I took the engine and trans out. Couldn't really tell if it was yellow or not lol
















Now as you can see it is getting cleaner, thank God it is coming off. I hate working in grease. lol


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Sorry Ya'll for some reason it did not pick up the photos of the dog bone mod. I will repost them asap.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Wow sorry ya'll I haven't been able to update for a couple of weeks, I had a daughter get married one week and the next week was the big TDIclub GTG at my house. But alas I am back to work on the NB, getting it ready for the big trip to Panama. 
Here is just a few pics of the GTG this past Saturday. 

What a great couple, Andrew and his better half from Malone Tunes, need parts check him out. 
















Terrytdi from Charlestown, wow you can eat off this TDI 








Oil change 








Yes thats Terry tdi in the center you can tell by the clean overalls and the super clean head. lol 








My yellow tdi in the back ground, torn apart and begging to be put back to gether. 








Super Dan144 doing an injector purge.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

While all this stuff was going on the last couple of weeks I was not completely idle. 
Andrew from Malone Tunes makes some of the best repairs parts on the market, google him and check them out. 
This is a repair part that he makes and is so easy to install. 
Center box hinge repair. Check it out. 
Since my lid hinge was already broken all I had to do was put it in a vice and saw off the broken parts of the hinge. Leave about an 1/8 of an inch of the old hingle as it will be used to locate the new parts. 
















Simply locate the "A" side of the hinge on the lid and use the short self taping screw to install that half. 








Install the lid into the box base and screw in the four self taping screws and you are done. Follow his great directions, wow it works again. 








Easy arm rest center lid box repair, way to go Andrew.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

This last week I also decided to polish my oil filter bracket. This one was a tough one as it is not aluminum as I thought it was. 
Bdfore shot 








During polishing, it's about 1/2 done.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

A lot of engine compartment detailing also took place and it will be nice working where it is clean instead of full of 12 years of grim.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Some more mods yesterday. This time it was make the Audi TT LCA receive the VW NB sway bar. This is where you have to get the early TT LCA as it has the knub for the sway bar but was never used and never drilled out for one. I guess they changed their minds after it went into production. 
Put the LCA in a vice as we are going to drill it out to 10mmx1.5 pitch. Center punch the LCA in the center of the knub. 








Before you drill figure out how deep you need to go by installing the bolt into the old LCA with the sway bar bracket in place. Then use tape to mark the depth. You will need to go a bit deeper to get it to fit correctly. If you don't go deep enough the bolt will not bottom out on the bracket and it will be loose, but don't worry too much you can always trim the bolt some to fit. I had to lol, 








Start small, keeping it straight and work your way up to the tapping bit size. 








Again mark the depth you need to go on the tapping drill. Go for it, just keep it straight and not wobbleing side to side. 








Tap the hole, install the LCA on the car and install the sway bar. Done Audi TT LCA now works with the NB sway bar.


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## DarkoMk4 (Dec 19, 2006)

:beer: 

great progress on this 
In for the epic rebuild


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Thanks it's a little slow but one piece at a time.


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## Cadenza_7o (Jan 23, 2001)

Wow... haven't check this thread in a while. Good progress there. 

Got an irrelevant question for ya... how do you remove the arm rest lid from its joint/elbow? Mine has a broken latch and I have a new lid but couldn't figure out how to remove it.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Is the top of the arm rest broken or just the movable part with the two springs? If it is just the movable part Andrew at Newzboys make the replacement latch as well as the replacement hinge. He has great parts. I have never had to take the lid off with a good hinge, so I can't answer that for you but Andrew can, contact him at his web site he will get right back to you.


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## Cadenza_7o (Jan 23, 2001)

The hinge is fine. It's the latch button with the spring that's broken. 

Andrew is at Malone Tuning, right?


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

You can get the latch only from Andrew at Newzboys


Cadenza_7o said:


> The hinge is fine. It's the latch button with the spring that's broken.
> 
> Andrew is at Malone Tuning, right?


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Ok time to show a few more upgrades. 
I finished the second 4770 spin on fuel filter adaptor and this is where and how I mounted it.
As you can see it is in the stock location but the stock filter mount has been modified a little to allow the cat filter to fit. It is larger around and the screw tightner of the stock mount was taken out and I used my old airplane safety wire plyers to install safety wire to tighten the cat filter in place. It works great and will not come loose. The motor mount is off so you can see how the filter mounts on the NB.








Also went in an cleaned the upper part of the wirewall and the windshield wiper motor and hardware.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

As you can see the pics have been lost, this is a temp lose and they will be back as soon as I figure out what is going on.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Ok I think I have figured out flickr again, so here goes. 

I have fabed up a mounting system for the fmic and it looks like it will work like a charm. This is just showing the proto-type and when I do the final install I will show all the steps for mounting it.

I fabed the proto-type brackets out of soft alum. strapping and the final brackets will be made of a much stronger metal. 

DSCN2380 by Richard551571, on Flickr

These are some views of the FMIC mounted into the final location 

DSCN2379 by Richard551571, on Flickr

DSCN2378 by Richard551571, on Flickr

DSCN2377 by Richard551571, on Flickr

It is a very large FMIC, but I feel I will need it in Central America. I will end up about 3/4" less ground clearance than stock, but I am still looking at getting the car a little higher in the air for better ground clearance.

DSCN2373 by Richard551571, on Flickr

I will have to mod the front grill some to make it clear but it will look and function great when I am thru.

DSCN2374 by Richard551571, on Flickr

DSCN2375 by Richard551571, on Flickr

Final piping install will be after the engine is installed. It looks like it will be no problem getting the pipes made and installed.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

wow been doing other peoples work for the last week, seems that timing belts and rear main seals are the things that are beeing replaced this month. So right now no time to work on my NB, but the parts are now flowing it and that is great. Just need time.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)




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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Did a T/B ect on a Jetta wagon the other day and this is the way the headlights came in. I have never seen H/Ls this bad. I had to fix them before they left. They were surprised. Don't know how they saw at night. 


This is after about 30 mins of sand paper and polishing, what a job. Could have been a lot better but it was for free lol


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

wow it is finally time to get back to work on my NB for the trip to Panama. Have some time so I thought I would start on the lower end. Here goes.
I'm going to completely overhaul this motor for the trip so every thing will come out and be be inspected and repaired or replaced. Everything.
As you know from past posts the head is already off and will be sent to a head specialist in North Carolina for a full clean up including, porting, CCing, flowing. This guy specializes in NASCAR heads so this will be no brainer for him. He worked on VW heads when he was in California so he knows the ropes. He will be profiling a one off cam just for this head. I am looking for better flow, better cooling and of course a little HP thrown in for good measure. All new valves, guides everything new. 
But back to the lower end. 
First take the pan off. This is the high bred pan with the two piece bottom.

DSCN2410 by Richard551571, on Flickr
Next take out the oil pickup

DSCN2411 by Richard551571, on Flickr
Now the windage tray. Be very careful it has two plastic centering pins and they break very carefully. It cost 70.00 to replace it.

DSCN2415 by Richard551571, on Flickr


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Now for the front timing gear. This one was a real hard one to get off. I could not budge it at my shop so I took it to a tire store with a one inch air gun, no joy. Finally took it to a welding shop and they had to heat it up red hot, throw water on it to shrink it and it finally came off. wow.

DSCN2417 by Richard551571, on Flickr
Front seal is next, make sure you tag and bag all the bolts as you go. The front and back seals have a slightly shorter bolt and they look just like the pan bolts.

DSCN2418 by Richard551571, on Flickr

DSCN2427 by Richard551571, on Flickr
This is the seal that I will be replacing in the front.

DSCN2422 by Richard551571, on Flickr


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

The oil pump gear is next. I am upgrading to the BRM gear, chain and tensioner. It give better flow at lower RPMs. 

DSCN2419 by Richard551571, on Flickr
Now the oil pump itself. Wow this is easy 

DSCN2420 by Richard551571, on Flickr

OK all the stuff is out of the way. Need to do a little checking on the health of the lower end now.
1st check the side play in the rods. These are great only 4-4.5 thousands. NO new rods yeah.

DSCN2423 by Richard551571, on Flickr
Mains next, great here also. New thrust shims and bearing and all is going to be new again. I will plastigage the rods and main a little later.

DSCN2425 by Richard551571, on Flickr


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

In the above picture you will see a "3" stamped in the main bearing cap. All the main caps are numbered and have to go back in the correct main holes. lol 
The rods are not stamped so you have to do it yourself, again they have to go back in the same spot on the crank. I used a small punch and marked each rod, both on the cap and the rod itself. Also remember which way they face.

DSCN2428 by Richard551571, on Flickr
The whole thing so I remember, lol

DSCN2431 by Richard551571, on Flickr


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

For The next part of the rebuild I have to turn the engine over onto it bottom, so the flywheel has to come off.

DSCN2433 by Richard551571, on Flickr 

That is no problem but you have to be very careful and not set the motor on the crank sensor. You can bind it and that would cost you big dollars. I placed a 2x4 under each end of the block and made sure the sensor was out of the way.

DSCN2436 by Richard551571, on Flickr

I will have to turn the crank for the next process so how to do It? I put two of the flywheel bolts back into the crank and use a screw driver to now turn the crank. Be carfeful to not let the screw driver mar the end of the crank. 

DSCN2434 by Richard551571, on Flickr


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

The ridge at the top of the cylinder now has to be removed before you can take the pistons out. If you don't you are taking the chance of breaking a ring while it is still in the cylinder or worse yet is breaking a ring land. That would mean new piston. 
I make and run my own bio-diesel and as you can see from the picture there is hardly any ridge at all. I could have taken it out with crocus cloth but wanted to show how to use a ridge rimmer. So here goes.

DSCN2437 by Richard551571, on Flickr
This is the ridge rimmer and you can borrow it from O'reilly or any other parts store. 

DSCN2438 by Richard551571, on Flickr
This is the cutting knife and it has to be down in the cylinder just below the starting of the carbon deposit.

DSCN2439 by Richard551571, on Flickr
I did this by raising the piston until it allowed the rimmer to set just below the ridge than I am taking out. 

DSCN2440 by Richard551571, on Flickr


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Now for the adjustments on the reamer. It is very easy and after you have done the first one the rest will be simple.
This top screw centers the reamer in the cylinder. You will have to stick your finger down into the tool to get it to center. 

DSCN2441 by Richard551571, on Flickr
After it is centered these two screws will allow you to push the cutting knife out into the edge of the cylinder. Make sure the knife marking is set a 2 now. You will see the markings on top of the cutter.
After it touches the side of the cylinder, turn the setting to 3 and you are ready to cut.

DSCN2443 by Richard551571, on Flickr
This large nut turns the cutter in the cyolinder and it goes higher as you turn it. If you don't feel or hear anything cutting don't worry, keep turning it will not cut until it hits the carbon and you will hear it. Turn it till the cutter is clear of the top of the cylinder. Simple and done. 

This is a view of the carbon gone and you can move onto the rest of the cylinders. Easy right!!!

DSCN2446 by Richard551571, on Flickr


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

The pistons will come out next but first I will have to check how far the pistons set above the top of the deck. This will tell me if I have a bad rod and tell me which head gasket I have to use. If one rod is longer then the others it is probably stretched and needs to be replaced. That is for another day.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Wow I think I forgot to mention that I now have her back on the ground. The front Audi TT spindles came back with the new bearings and hubs installed. Her she is!!!

DSCN2395 by Richard551571, on Flickr

When you go to the TT spindles the tie rod ends have to be mounted upside down as the taper is the opposite for the TT. Nut goes up, not down. 

DSCN2396 by Richard551571, on Flickr

Together 

DSCN2397 by Richard551571, on Flickr

Here she is on her feet again. Yeah, getting closer every day now.

DSCN2398 by Richard551571, on Flick


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## DrTrae (May 31, 2005)

I'm enjoying this. opcorn:


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

with or without?


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## PaaTooo (Aug 28, 2013)

I´m also enjoying all this Tread..!! keep it up to the day..!!

Regards from México..!!


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

One thing I forgot to mention on the above hub, bearing and spindle install. It is very important that you do not let the weight of the car rest on the unsupported bearing. You need to pulln the hub in tight onto the bearing or there will be side play in it. All you have to do is install a jack shaft or the axles into the hub and tighten them down, not to full torque, just good and snug.

DSCN2476 by Richard551571, on Flickr
I just slip a chisel into the brake rotor and tighten the nut up to snug.

DSCN2477 by Richard551571, on Flickr
I as always just anti seeze on all the splines and nuts. Even for just a temp install. 

DSCN2474 by Richard551571, on Flickr


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Thank you Paa Too, have a great day.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Wow I went to my local, so called, auto machine shop and ask them if they could check the piston protrusion on my TDI. This is a very simple thing to do with a dial indicator, they said they did not know how to do it.????? So I guess they can not check end play on a crank or cam either. Just WOW.
I went back home to my shop and did it my self. I am with in .001 of an inch so I guess this is close enough. 
Need this to check for a bent or streatched rod and to know which head gasket I will be using as I am going with a "one off" custom cam which my head builder will be profiling for me. 
First thing to do is get the top of the pistons as clean as possible. I used the edge of a razor blade. Just gently pull it across the top of the piston to get any carbon off. Don't gouge it!!!!

DSCN2478 by Richard551571, on Flickr
Now is also a good time to check and see if you deck is level. Take as long of a straight edge as you have in your shop and lay it across the deck. Look to see if it is low or high in several places across the deck. Yeah mine is about perfect. 

DSCN2482 by Richard551571, on Flickr 
Now to check piston projection. Get out your Bentley and and go to the "crankshaft/cylinder block" section. Now to "Piston projection at TDC", it lists the thickness of the 3 different head gaskets. Most of the stock TDi's use the 2 hole head gasket. It has a thickness of ".0602" thousands. Cool
Now rotate the crank so the #1 and #4 pistons are at TDI, without a dial indicator you can eyeball it and get it with in about .001. Rock the crank several times until you are happy you are close enough to TDI to measure the projection. This is close enough for me. 

DSCN2480 by Richard551571, on Flickr
When doing the measuring be sure to hold the level in the center of the piston so it is not rocking one way or the other.

DSCN2479 by Richard551571, on Flickr
Mine came out to be .032 thousands projection. This is within .001 thousands so I am happy. All the pistons were the same, so no rods bent or streatched. Now I know I have about .028 thousands clearance between the head and the top of the pistons. Now the cam guy can go to town. YEAH


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Now I know what the piston projection is and what the side play on the rods and mains is. (Yes that is correct English, lol) Next will be to dismantle the rest of the block. Take the pistons and crank out. Then check for cylinder taper and roundness. Hope the machine has an inside micrometer. Probably now lol.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Time to remove the pistons,

DSCN2484 by Richard551571, on Flickr
I set the block on its side so I could get at the rod caps.

DSCN2485 by Richard551571, on Flickr
I turned the crank so #1 and #4 rod caps were at BDC or close and took the rod caps off. Remember the rods and caps have to stay together and replaced in the correct orientation. 

DSCN2486 by Richard551571, on Flickr
With the rod caps off all you have to do is push the piston up and out of the cylinder. easy
I used a wood handle of a small hammer to do the pushing. Never force it out. If it won't go check and see what is in the way and remove it.

DSCN2487 by Richard551571, on Flickr
This engine is something else, it is near perfect at everything I look at. No wear at all. This is a rod journal, super clean. wow! Only 357,000 miles on it and it is like new.

DSCN2488 by Richard551571, on Flickr
The pistons, wrist pins and rods are the same, like new. 

If you look real closely you can still see the cross hatch honing from when the engine was new. So far great. After this I will check for taper and out of roundness of the cylinders. Then back together.

DSCN2494 by Richard551571, on Flickr
DSCN2490 by Richard551571, on Flickr


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## Cadenza_7o (Jan 23, 2001)

Good progress there. I've not torn down an engine like you're doing for 30 years!!! 

Man... Looking at these pix of an engine with 357,xxx miles, I really want to buy a new TDI Beetle. It's the new components that make it too costly to repair. Things like the HPFP, DPF and DSG are just crazy expensive.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

When I''m done this will be like a new car, I think I will have repaired or replaced most parts. It should last me for many happy years in the future. Thanks for stopping by the thread. Hope you are enjoying it.


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Hey, I was wondering; why you went with the TT front suspension... for strength, bigger brakes etc. and what clutch setup are you going with? How is your turbo doing; are you going to have that rebuilt or upgraded as well? 
Also, since you are doing performance upgrades; were you going to have the engine balanced/blueprinted? I find the lack of wear on your engine parts; to be amazing!  Any info appreciated!


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Yes this little engine is amazing. The engine will not be balanced or blueprinted, but will now be running ARP rod and main bolts and nuts. These engines are so well put together I don't feel they need a lot of additional help. The rods are balanced from the factory and the crank floats like it is on roller bearings. I shot a video of the crank turning and it spins with just a slight push of the finger and continues to turn for several revolutions. I have tried to upload the video with no success. 
The head is, as we speak, up in North Carolina at a NHRA/NASCAR head builder. I told him I want the head to flow with as little restrictions as possible. The chamber bowl will be completely reformed. This will allow the head to run cooler as well as create more HP. I am not after a lot more HP but will take what he gives me. I am running close to 200 now and have been for about 175,000 miles and have had no problems at all with this motor. I tore it apart because I refused to change the timing belt, always said I will do it "next month" lol, it spin several teeth finally. I will be running the same vnt 17/22 turbo as it is a great workhorse. I did an in-depth look at it and it is near perfect also. No play, chips just clean and smooth. I put a lot of this to running the Shell Rotella oil, which I have for over 100,000 miles. Just good ole 10-40, nothing fancy just keep it clean. 
Hope this answered your questions. 
Richard55


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Oh sorry forgot, "why the TT front end" The NB has one of the cheapest front suspensions on the market. No adjustment to speak of, come on "shift the front subframe" to correct alignment. The TT runs the same mounting points as the NB and the TT has adjustment slots built into the LCA, so now I can get the front end running in a straight line, not just close. Tire wear will go way down now. That is good. I was wearing front tires out in 40,000 or less because no one could get it aligned correctly.. Yes they ar3e stronger as they are solid cast not stamped LCAs, also a larger ball joint and a beefier spindle. The brakes are the TT 312mm fronts and they stop on a dime. You don't realize how bad these things are until you replace them with things that really work. It's nice to be able to get up to whatever speed and then stop safely. Night and day difference.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

I think the thing that has amazed a lot of people is that I have gotten such good service out of these mods. Well over 175,00 on them and still going strong. Especially the RC6, this tune has not limiter for either RPM or Boost, most people would have blown this motor up years ago. lol I tell every one that this car is not a "Hot Rod", just a car that has the power available when needed. lol. I do not get into it much. About the only time I do is at a GTG when someone wants to go for a thrill ride. Most people ask to get out before we get back. lol Yes it is that fast. With this new head and I forgot to mention that the builder is having a "one off" cam designed and built for this motor. He will know the correct profiles when he is done with his part and a cam builder in California will get the information from him and build the new "one off" cam. Loving it.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Did a little more work today with the crank. Checked it for roundness and for diameter. I used a digital micrometer and it is near perfect. The rods all came out to well within limits. Original is 47.8 and guess what that is what they are. Wow. This pic is just for example of how to mic the rods, you can see it says 47.91 but it was not tight on the journal at that point. It's really hard to mic and take a picture at the same time. lol This was just an example of "how to".

DSCN2508 by Richard551571, on Flickr
The main end play was again well with in limits as it had .002 thousands end play and the range is .0012-.0031.
So again this little motor was in very good condition. 

DSCN2511 by Richard551571, on Flickr


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Wow been working on OPC (other peoples cars) again and no time for mine. Just finished a full suspension install and a clutch and rear main seal. But it gives me more $ to buy parts for the big trip. 
I will start working on the trans bellhouseing swap in the next few days. Fun


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Just ordered 2 DR32 dash cameras for install asap. This will allow me to record 9 hours of 1080 dp on each 32 gig mini card. I will install one facing front and one facing rearward. I'll let you know how it looks. This is one of the reasons the headliner is still out of the car. Rear camera and more antennas will be wired above the headliner.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Received the two dash cameras today and will be installing the in the very near future. Tried one out and it looks real good. YES
Also received the new in tank lift pump, I will mod it to pass fuel even if it dies on the road. Then I will be installing it. WOW getting closer every day.

I took the block and crank to a real auto machine shop and had him double check my reading on the crank, pistons and then check the cylinder taper and also for out of roundness, they are almost like new. Less then a thousands difference from new on the cylinders. I ask if I should have him polish the crank and he said "NO" it's like new. Love this engine.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

I did a R&I of the trans bellhousing this week, there is a "how to" here on this forum so I will not post my own, but I did a mod on the case that you my like. I allows the oil to return back to the main case from the 5th gear side. This will allow better cooling in the 5th gear side. The only challenge is if you have a leaking 5th gear cover you will loose all the G70. So always keep and eye out for oil leaks. You should be doing this anyway, lol.
This is the stock housing as it comes from VW

DSCN2515 by Richard551571, on Flickr

Here is the first hole to be drilled. As always be sure to be able to clean all the filings out of the area you are drilling. My case was apart and I had all the gears out. I used brake cleaner and air to get all the filings out of the case when I was done.

DSCN2516 by Richard551571, on Flickr

This is the final view of all the new holes in the trans case. You will end up with three new areas drilled out. Two round holes and one where I drilled three holes and joined them together. 

DSCN2518 by Richard551571, on Flickr


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

I will be doing some shifter linkage mods in the near future and will be posting them up for you.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

wow I have been working on a lot of other cars the last week or so. that is great but I want my car running. I have decided to go with some good custom rods, rostons or maybe something a little less expensive. 
Found out this week end at the GTG that my 764s are shot, so I think I will step up to the R520s just to see how they will run. Still waiting on my head to get back from "Headbytes" that should be a super improvement. 
All and all it should be doing over 200 HP when put back together. yeah.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Wow been off site for a while, we had a GTG at my place since last checking in and it was a blast, many thanks to Andrew from "Fixmyvw.com" for coming over and putting it together. 

Did an engine swap in a Golf last week, engine was from an automatic car and there are several things that are different. 

Also did another timing belt on an other golf. found a front crank seal out and had to order the tool to remove the front nut, wow what a challenge it is. 

Busy and getting more and more parts yea,

Spoke with Thomas Sizemore at "headbytes", he is really tricking my head out and he said today it should be done by this Friday. Ordered new "Intergrated" rods and they will be here tomorrow. again yeah. The motor should be going together this next week. Seems like it has been a year since I tore it down. wow it has been. lol. slow but correct for this little car.


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## DarkoMk4 (Dec 19, 2006)

Just stopped by to check out the progress. Looking good, and definitely motivating myself to overhaul my projects . . .


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

OK I'm back, I've been doing tons of work on other peoples cars and now its time for me to get back on mine. Lots of pics and how to's coming.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

This is the head work just finished on my TDI 

[video]http://m.youtube.com/user/HeadPorting?feature=mhee[/video]


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

As most of you know I do repairs on tdi's only and love it, it is funding my rebuild of my NB for my trip to Panama Central America. So here is a special offer. 


*Going to SOWO this year?

If you are going and bring back any information from the event I will give you a 10% discount on the labor of your next repair with in the next six months. Book it now. 

Hope you enjoy this years SOWO, hope to see you there.*


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

wow so much has gone on since I last post here. Car is up and running and I will be posting and pic-ing here soon.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Ok, so I have a tiny oil leak, lol, front crank seal will not stop leaking. I have installed 5 different seal, both PTFE and spring seals and still no joy. I even sent off and bought the seal install tool, thinking it might be me, but still no joy. 

So I called a couple of auto machine shops and they said this happens all the time. Thanks but how do I fix it short of installing a new crank. It seems there is a Timken seal repair sleave that goes over the front crank. I sent off for it and now am about to install it. Will post the results as soon as I get it installed. I'll take pics and if I can get them up you will all see the process..


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

I will be taking the front seal and cover off tomorrow or tueday and installing the sleave repair and new seal. Hope this one solves the challenge.


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## TightDub (Dec 24, 2003)

:beer:Tons of useful info here!


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## JimmyD (Apr 30, 2001)

opcorn: I'm happy to see this project and thread updates are moving forward again!


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

We lost a great tdi friend night. Papadoc lost his fight with cancer and passed. I will miss Wesley and know he is now driving his tdi in Heaven. What a great guy is was. Fun to be around and make you laugh at the drop of a hat. See you later Papadoc.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

I installed the new oil soft plug with some head gasket sealer on it. LOL always read the instructions prior to installing any sealer. I didn't lol. It says to let it dry prior to installing, I didn't lol. Guess what yes it leaked again. So today I thought I would take care of it once and for all. I went to Advance Auto and picked up some JB Weld with an expoxy base. I installed it today (properly) and am letting it set up for 15 hours per the instructions on the box. lol Will know tomorrow if it leaks. Dang hope not. If it still leaks it will be time for a new block.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

*The date is firm for the 14th of March. Sweet, hope to see all of you there.

Address: 25-A Sunbelt Parkway, Covington, Ga 30014

Sign up now if you would like a tune or a dyno run. 


Jeff Roberts and RC Tunes will be at this GTG, sign up now for a tune.

Malone tunes will also be there, sign up now.
*

We will start at 9 AM and go until they kick us out.

PM me if you want a dyno run and I will make the list up. Price is $100.00 for 3 runs. 
Food, fun and friends, we all can stand around and tell our tales. lol

I am looking at doing a GTG in the next couple of months. I was at a dyno shop yesterday and they are open to a GTG on a saturday. They will open up their shop and their dynojet 225 for us. They will give great discounts for the club. Of course you don't have to get a dyno run to come. 

I will have a BBQ and lots of room to park and enjoy our cars. 
The location would be in Covington Ga. east of ATL about 40 miles. This is where they filmed the TV series "Dukes of Hazzard".
If you want to bring items for the BBQ just let me know what so we won't have 50 gallons of coke and no hamburgers ect. lol 

This will be a great time to really find out what the tune is doing for your car. Compare different makes and different stages of the tunes. 

It is an indoor dyno and you will be warm if the weather is cold or raining. They have two lifts and I will try to get access to both of them. This will ge a great GTG

Bring your old parts for a swap or sell meet also. 

light maintance can be done. LOL no clutches ect.


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## rbryan (Nov 14, 2008)

Went by the dyno shop again today and reconfirmed all is a go for the 14th. Yes


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