# rear main seal failure at 80K miles due to PCV defect on 2.0 TSI



## keenan_jeff (May 2, 2002)

The rear main seal on my 09 Tiguan 2.0 TSI blew at 80k miles from PCV valve defect customer service refuses to help with repair cost.

I have found several cases of the PCV clogging on the TSI engine cars sending boost pressure into crankcase and blowing the seal.

The tiguan has the 06H-103-495-E revision of the PCV

has anyone gotten any help from VW on this repair outside the normal 60K power train warranty?


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

No help here.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5924997-TFSI-oil-leak


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## VR6Now (Dec 31, 2000)

keenan_jeff said:


> The rear main seal on my 09 Tiguan 2.0 TSI blew at 80k miles from PCV valve defect customer service refuses to help with repair cost.
> 
> I have found several cases of the PCV clogging on the TSI engine cars sending boost pressure into crankcase and blowing the seal.
> 
> ...


If you're out of warranty, why would they step up? This isn't like the timing chain issue where it is expected to last the life of the engine and could do massive amounts of damage if failure occurs. Its a rear main seal, PCV valve, and labor. 

Its not catastrophic. It just another thing to keep your eye on with this engine (along with the HPFP, intake flap, chain tensioner, and water pump)


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## GTIsmk1&6 (Oct 7, 2013)

I wouldn't expect this kind of failure at 80k on a car. I'm in the middle of an carbon build up/sticking valve issue right now @ 74k and am being told it's a normal wear item like the coil packs 5k miles ago. Pretty fed up myself.


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## jonpark (Aug 14, 2011)

I have some oil leak back of the engine....
I guess I gotta go check on that pcv also....


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## keenan_jeff (May 2, 2002)

update on this the dealer is saying the pcv not broken on this car.

I found some other mention of rear main seal not being installed properly at the factory (not enough rtv sealant)

I am pushing VW to help pay for repair a rear main seal should not fail at 80K miles period my mk4 jetta is over 14 years old and never leaked a drop.

By VWoA not helping with this repair they are saying that their current 2.0 TSI lineup will not make 100k miles without major repair and this is very bad for the brand.


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## Clyde Smith (Apr 22, 2009)

Right. YOUR Mk4 rear main isn't leaking. Some of them did. 

Just like every TSI rear main doesn't leak, but yours is. 
It isn't that common of an issue, but sure it happens here and there. 
Cars break out of warranty. Once it's up, no manufacturer owes you anything.


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## donjuan1jr (Oct 8, 2008)

Clyde Smith said:


> Right. YOUR Mk4 rear main isn't leaking. Some of them did.
> 
> Just like every TSI rear main doesn't leak, but yours is.
> It isn't that common of an issue, but sure it happens here and there.
> Cars break out of warranty. Once it's up, no manufacturer owes you anything.


Were actually seeing alot of tsi rear mains going 80-100k. The seal separates from the plate and just gushes.


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## keenan_jeff (May 2, 2002)

So The car was repaired at a cost of $1,450 the rear main seal itself was separated from the plate but not torn in any way 

It looks to me like the RTV bead was not applied to the flange properly at the factory causing the seal failure and leak right after the powertrain warrantee expired.

Here are some pictures


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## GTIsmk1&6 (Oct 7, 2013)

Sorry to rad about that. Have just gone thru the carbon cleaning, fuel line repair, injector replacement for a little less dough @ 74k miles, am contemplating dumping the car if this awaits at 80k. Did you have any symptoms prior to outright failure?


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## keenan_jeff (May 2, 2002)

no symptoms at all once the seal fails you will get 

p0171 lean code due to vacuum leak and oil pooling under engine.

the dealer said the seal does not fail on many cars if the sealant was applied properly at the factory the seal would not be under pressure and subject to failure.


i just cant believe that VWoA will not offer a voucher to help pay for this repair it is a manufacturing defect on their part and a non wearing item that should last the life of the car. (i have never had a RMS fail on any of my cars some with over 250k miles.)


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## chrslby (May 2, 2013)

I had my Rear main seal go out last week on my 09 Wolfie at 96000. I was on a 650 mile trip about half way through on the Pennsylvania turnpike i started smelling oil burning jumped out peeked under the car and seen oil everywhere. i babied it the rest of the way pouring a little over 2 more quarts into it until i was in richmond and stopped at browns VW out there. the parts about 150$. the labor 1250$. had no choice but to bite the bullet and get her fixed there. worst part is i work at a dealership in ohio that woulda cost a fraction of the labor for me.


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## keenan_jeff (May 2, 2002)

Does anyone know how we can raise this case the the NTSB to get VW to issue a warranty extension?

This is a dangerous situation when the car is leaking oil on a hot engine it is a design or build flaw the rear seal should never fail in the life of a well designed engine.


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## shawng (Jul 28, 2007)

https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/

Log a complaint!


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## damian856 (Aug 4, 2010)

2009 Gti 64,xxx on the clock. Mechanic just diagnosed failed rear main seal caused by failed (closed) pcv. Not sure what to do since it's currently at an independent and VWOA wants me to pay to have it towed, and pay their diagnostic charges only to take my chances with what they "might" cover.


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## Brd.Prey (Oct 25, 2012)

*Rear Main Seal*

This just happened on our A5. 75,000 miles. I have a lift and the seal is $50 bucks. Does anyone know if the auto tranny is just an unbolt and drop down deal?

Ed

PS I put a catch can on the motor and it was full half oil half water after 1700 miles. I emptied it but then noticed an oil leak and wondered if the full can caused an increase in crank pressure their by blowing the seal.

Not sure.

opinions


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

I have owned our CC since Day 1 in Nov of 2008. Always used factory oil, meticulously maintained, etc. I have been a mechanic all of my life in one form or another. In my professional opinion. the RMS is caused by faulty PCV, which I had and replaced long ago. But about the same time, the RMS started leaking.

Regardless, this is an oil seal issue, so I really wouldn't hold my hand on my butt and expect any supplement. The only thing that holds water is the fact that it throws a lean code in some instance (i.e. mine). But still, that is not saying that there is any emission implications, it is just stating that the ECU is having to compensate outside of what it thinks is has to.

I opted to just pay to have VW do it, sigh. I have been working on VWs, rebuilding engines and transmissions among other things since the mid '80s. I could have done it myself, but my thought is that if VW steps up at some point, I can get it all reimbursed. ..not expecting it though. The RMS on this car is a crap design. The old style RMS rarely if ever failed in the 25 yrs it had that design. Why you chance something like that this piss poor seal design is beyond me... Save $0.50 in production to lose $100's-$1,000's in future sales.

I troubleshot the intake manifold issue, the PCV, the Fuel pressure sensor, the injectors and various other issues with this car all myself and paid for parts out of pocket. A lot of which could have been fully re-imbursed now due to VW letter(s). I am still going to submit for the Intake, and injectors, but we shall see.

This was the first *new* VW I have bought since my 85 Scirocco, and I was sadly disappointed. Still, it is a seal and seals are not covered. My wife drives a lot and now has about 92K miles on it. We will see what the next venture has to offer..


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## GTIsmk1&6 (Oct 7, 2013)

Sorry to say but I'm done with VW's. Looking to trade it in next week after my carbon build up issue, fuel injector replacement, coil replacements and now bent valve from valve coming into contact with hardened carbon deposits (dealer theory-I have no idea). I'm not waiting around for a rear main seal failure. To top it off VW really doesn't give a damn.


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## IndianaTom (Dec 10, 2011)

*rear main seal rms fail at 88K*

Amazing - my 09 TIG with 88K just blew the RMS too. I replaced the PCV for good measure but I do not think it was the cause. I took apart the PCV and nothing was stuck, broke or torn. $130 insurance. 








It appears that the rubber part of the seal is rather flimsy. 
The bond to the metal backing failed - it dropped apart when removed. 
My local shop charged $ 550 to replace including the seal.


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## keenan_jeff (May 2, 2002)

$550 is a great price to remove the engine and replace the seal! 

The only reason I brought it to the dealer is because I was sure VWOA would pay for at least part of the repair.


I am opening a case with nhtsa hopefully VW will have to reimburse us all for this repair.


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## mkvwolfie (Jun 2, 2012)

*Rear Main Seal at 110k*

My intake (3rd) and PCV went at 110k causing the rear main seal to blow out. The dealer charged about $1,200 for all of it. The intake was still under the warranty extension. 

They said all of it happened due to the cold weather. Right.


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## jettaglx91 (Jul 27, 2004)

keenan_jeff said:


> $550 is a great price to remove the engine and replace the seal!
> 
> The only reason I brought it to the dealer is because I was sure VWOA would pay for at least part of the repair.
> 
> ...


You don't need to remove the engine, just the trans 

My wife's CC just needed the rms replaced at 72k. Luckily was covered by CPO


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## sheabird32 (Apr 19, 2013)

This just happened to me...2008 Passat TSI - anyone having any luck with VW? I am getting fixed a local VW/Audi repair shop and they quoted me at 1k for the rear main seal, new fuel pressure sensor, and oil separator valve (PCV). 

Def caused by the faulty PCV valve and its BS. Car just had 60k server over the summer @ 69k and has been maintained very well. All the same symptoms and codes though. I knew it when I read this thread a few days ago.


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## mkvwolfie (Jun 2, 2012)

The fuel pressure sensor, PCV and intake manifold are very common on this engine. The rear main seal will leak if the above items are not fixed quickly due to pressure build up. I paid about 1500 last year to have all of that stuff replaced, but I had 120k. This year at 150k everything seems to be fine. No additional issues. 

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## sheabird32 (Apr 19, 2013)

mkvwolfie said:


> The fuel pressure sensor, PCV and intake manifold are very common on this engine. The rear main seal will leak if the above items are not fixed quickly due to pressure build up. I paid about 1500 last year to have all of that stuff replaced, but I had 120k. This year at 150k everything seems to be fine. No additional issues.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk



Well that is good to hear I guess. I wish there were some built in checks to prevent the pressure build up causing a main seal breach. Will have the car back in a week, hopefully it lasts another 2 years so we can trade it in on a new GTI or R


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## keefrichards (Sep 27, 2012)

We had the intake manifold warranty service done on our 2009 CC TSI at 64K mi after CEL and multiple fault codes plus driveability issues. I replaced the coil packs and VW did the PCV at the time of that service.

Now at 74K mi our rear main seal is leaking. P0171 code among other intermittent cylinder misfires came along with that leak. Also a P12a2 DTC.

Dealership quoted me $1329 in parts and labor and I started a case with VW to see if they could help with any costs. 

Can anyone with technical knowledge of the engine confirm that the failure of the PCV (or any of the parts included with the intake manifold warranty service) would contribute to the rear main seal failure?


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## kbad (May 26, 2007)

hey Keef .. did they ask to perform a carbon cleanup when changing your mani? they should have! ... this should help, How VW 2.0t TSI Intake Manifolds Fail .. this time, make sure they check the intake, flaps, ports, pcv all the way to the rms - if the rms is gone AND they didn't perform carbon cleanup last time, then there is a lot more carbon buildup now!! lucky the rms went and the rods didnt get bent, eh!

ditto mkvwolfie ... it's pretty much, one-thing-leads-to-another scenario .. it all starts with poor design, eh! .. the carbon buildup is the ongoing cause i.e. causing excessive pressure within the system, thus "leaking" at the weakest points - there is a finite volume of space in the cylinder ports and when the carbon builds up, it deteriorates the available volume, thus forcing the pressure out somewhere else within the system .. worst case scenario, you bend your rods/cams and damage the head or blow the whole engine  .. anything short of that, consider yourself somewhat lucky! .. with the shortcomings of this engine and the cummulative knowledge gathered here, it's obvious that vw should cover this as a design fault - until then, i believe a carbon cleaning is essential at every 20k-40k interval for this engine to last ... this should help .. How The VW 2.0t TSI Rear Main Seal Fails ... good luck!


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## keefrichards (Sep 27, 2012)

Thanks kbad. I did watch that humble mechanic video recently. There was no mention to me of any carbon cleaning when they did the intake manifold etc. I just had our statement out from that service and I don't believe it was documented on there either. Is this something to bring up to regional case manager that's reviewing my request? Should I bring it up to the dealership now that its in there or wait until I can get it to my local VW guy for cheaper labor?


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## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

KBAD : You have no clue....the failure of the rear seal has nothing to do with carbon build-up on the intake valves or intake manifold. The rear seal can fail if the diaphragm of the PCV unit ruptures, which allows a much higher than normal vacuum in the crankcase, which pulls the rubber rear seal off its metal flange.


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## mkvwolfie (Jun 2, 2012)

I'm retracting my previous statement. My check engine came back on today P2015. This will now be the 4th intake manifold on this car. Exactly a year ago to the month and 20k miles. This is the worst design. And VWoA and the local dealer are refusing to help in any way. 

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## kbad (May 26, 2007)

CC'ed ... no argument here, buddy, i never said its not the pcv ... it along with the mani, dv, rms, intake piping labrynth are all piss freakin poor engineered parts as well ... but, think about it in your vast pool of knowledge, my friend ... what goes thru the rms and imagine that torque, where do you think it originates from, hmmmm?? .. 

btw, i know enough about rms's because my 96 cherokee with 160k original miles blows them occassionally - it has a pcv and that is never the cause - chalk up another bad design to the oblivious-to-the-real-world engineers and parts simply wear out. 

simply put, bad design, one thing leads to another, and the weakest point breaks!

FYI .. generally speaking .. 

"If you have lots of blowby, or lots of bad detonation, you will keep blowing out the rear main seal, no matter how many times you replace it, specially if it is of inferior quality or design. Detonation causes blowby, and the rear main seal will be the first to piss it out."

"The rear main seal in your vehicle holds the engine oil in the oil pan while allowing the crank shaft to exit the engine block. The bearings that support the crank shaft are called the main bearings in your engine, so the rear main seal is a seal just outside of the last main bearing at the rear of your engine. Your rear main seal may be one or two pieces and is likely made out of a special type of rubber or silicone that is designed to handle the temperatures and chemicals in your engine oil. Ideally the outside of the rear main seal will press tightly against the engine block and/or oil pan not allowing engine oil to leak out and the inside of the rear main seal will slide over the crank shaft keeping oil from slipping past it as the shaft spins."

"Your rear main seal may develop a leak for a variety of reasons: Old Age, Lack of use, Outside elements, Corrosion, Extreme operating conditions, defects, etc. ... Anytime you have a surface rubbing on another, no matter how much lubricant you use or how smooth the surfaces are, overtime one will wear down. In the case of your rear main seal, rubber is softer than metal so the rubber seal will wear down first causing a leak."


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## keefrichards (Sep 27, 2012)

VW got back to me today. They are covering half of the repair cost of $1329. I'm surprised and happy that we don't have to pay for all of it. 

I asked how we made the cut and the case manager said it was because we had the CC into the dealer for regular service while it was still under warranty.

Still, I'm a little nervous about the serious issues we've been having with this engine. Might be time to try out a TDI.


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## kbad (May 26, 2007)

right on, Keef ... 50% is a lot better than 100%, anyday, brother .. make sure they check "everything" else, eh .. yeah, if you plague them enough, they will give in, specially when you have done everything as you were supposed to - just driving the car and following their serv/maint schedule - we are their product test bed, but they are very slow to admit when their 'test' products fail, eh! .. if you approach them with facts and data, they will consider all cases on an individual basis - you got nothing to lose, they could lose their reputation and ultimately sales .. good luck!


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## gkamieneski (Jun 7, 1999)

keefrichards said:


> VW got back to me today. They are covering half of the repair cost of $1329. I'm surprised and happy that we don't have to pay for all of it.
> 
> I asked how we made the cut and the case manager said it was because we had the CC into the dealer for regular service while it was still under warranty.
> 
> Still, I'm a little nervous about the serious issues we've been having with this engine. Might be time to try out a TDI.


KR,

Did you contatct VWoA yourself or have the service manager make the contact? I have the same issue with a 2009 wagon at 71K and it looks like it is going to run around $1800. I have the sense that the service manager is not keen on going back to VWoA for me. Me too had the CEL and manifold warranty service around the same time as you.

I have owned 6 VWs and never ever approached a repair cost like this. Multi point inspection passed fine at 70K. Serviced all my VWs at the dealer and even have another 2014 Passat at home in my garage.


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## keefrichards (Sep 27, 2012)

I called VW customer care as soon as I was fairly sure that it was the rear main seal. They started a case and said that I'd need to take it to the dealership for a formal diagnosis. Once that was made they touched base with the dealer and approved the request. It took the techs a full day to do the repair.


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## gkamieneski (Jun 7, 1999)

Hmmm...mine is still in the shop going on day 3. Estimate was about $1900.

This happened without warning at 71k after a clean bill of health multipoint inspection at the 70k service. Manifold warranty service was done August '13 at 55k. Went in to the dealer for a CEL and P1202, Fuel Injector Circuit Electrical Malfunction, Cyl. 2 showing on my scan tool. Never had a drip under the gar in my garage or elsewhere and never smelled oil. Car was performing like a top, just the damn CEL.

Tech found a P119A and diagnosed the oil seal problem. Also found a cam bridge sealant problem. Second day they told me they had to replace the breather as well (PCV?). Sounds to me like a common theme for these cars at 70K?


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## keefrichards (Sep 27, 2012)

My leak started very slow, leaving dime size drips. At the point where I realized that it was serious it looked like the car vomited oil all over the parking spot. The oil had run back along the subframe and was dripping off almost half the length of the car. It was a real mess.


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## gkamieneski (Jun 7, 1999)

Makes me wonder how bad mine really was. No drops of oil ever. Only the CEL and apparently a related loss of vacuum causing the injector code. Cost me over $1,800 and they did work on the cam bridge sealant and replaced the oil separator. I opened a case with VWoA, but we shall see.


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## ViRtUaLheretic (Aug 17, 2008)

I just had my rear main seal fixed at 140k miles.
My seal split in two and was leaking a good amount of oil. ~5qts every week (I drive 40 mins to work each way)

I drove my car to a "local" VW specialty shop and had him fix it for a very decent price


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## mwebb (Apr 19, 2008)

*top tier fuel / vw 502 oil*

http://www.toptiergas.com/why.html
we do not see carbon build up issues on cars 
with owners that use top tier fuel 
and 
the correct oils VW 502 minimum

so 
customers can have trouble understanding how we can tell that they are using the wrong fuel but when we interrogate them correctly 
none with carbon buildup deny using garbage fuel 

there is another way for us to tell you are using crap fuel .... using VCDS 
so 
why not just use the correct fuel ? this is not supposed to be this way .... if the consumers followed the recommendations of Mother VW 
this problem would NOT be so prevalent 

so 
use top tier fuel 
use the correct lubricant s 

BOTH things 
http://www.toptiergas.com/why.html

as per VW recommendations

the intake manifolds are covered up to 120k miles 
i never saw a car where the intake had to be replaced 2x on cars using the correct fuel 

on the CCTA and CBFA engines 
although the pressure sensor shows up in the test plan we have only replaced 1 in the past 4 years 
and i do not think that one was bad 

the BPY engines were different 
but that was covered under a recall


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## shawng (Jul 28, 2007)

And how is this related to rms failure?


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## mwebb (Apr 19, 2008)

*carbon build up in intake ducting and CCVV*



shawng said:


> And how is this related to rms failure?


carbon buildup in the intake ducting and back of intake valves and anything connected to or related to the intake 
including 
the crankcase vent valve CCVV or what some refer to as the positive crankcase ventilation PCV 

caused by consumers using NON recommended fuels AND / OR NON MANDATED lubricants


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## shawng (Jul 28, 2007)

Using top tier gas will not eliminate carbon buildup because all those great detergents never see the backs of the intake valves on DI engines. Also carbon buildup is not the cause of RMS failure. Using the wrong oil might reduce it as ash levels are critical. 

Using the right oil might even reduce PVC valve failure, but that one is a stretch. 

But here is a new one to chew on. Extended oil changes increase the soot level in the oil, and soot is abrasive. Perhaps this is wearing out the seals more, along with PVC failure.


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## MK5CNY (Sep 4, 2007)

OP, I agree, seems like it was a factory issue that unfortunately for you came after a warranty expired. I'm new to the 2.0T and am following this and other discussions on the seals and water pump failures. A couple local friends who also have a Mk6 GTi and GLi have told me that I should have the oil changed 3-5k, not the recommended 10k. Just some $0.02 that was passed onto me.


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## mwebb (Apr 19, 2008)

*wrong to both*



shawng said:


> Using top tier gas will not eliminate carbon buildup because all those great detergents never see the backs of the intake valves on DI engines. Also carbon buildup is not the cause of RMS failure. Using the wrong oil might reduce it as ash levels are critical.
> 
> Using the right oil might even reduce PVC valve failure, but that one is a stretch.
> 
> But here is a new one to chew on. Extended oil changes increase the soot level in the oil, and soot is abrasive. Perhaps this is wearing out the seals more, along with PVC failure.


 top tier fuel usage absolutely does reduce carbon buildup and formation in the intake and everywhere else 
i observe this pretty much on a daily basis 
nothing completely eliminates all carbon deposits from forming but to say that top tier fuel usage makes no difference is untrue and not consistent with facts

the rear seals are not failing due to "abrasion" by "soot" or anything else 
there is clearly separation of the seal material from the steel backing plate / support 
the lubrication engineers designed in a system that suspend contaminants in the oil 
when the oil can absorb no more contaminants it should be replaced 
the interval has been determined by extensive testing
but 
if you wish to test your own oil from your own car 
send a sample to Blackstone labs 
they will confirm what VW engineers already know 



test 
do 
not 
guess


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## shawng (Jul 28, 2007)

While I respect that you have your own beliefs, They are not mine, nor do I see the results you claim to see. At our shop and others, we are seeing quite the opposite. Regardless, I am not up for a long debate. I respectfully agree to disagree. Others reading this thread can make their own judgement call.


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## mwebb (Apr 19, 2008)

*this is not a debate*



shawng said:


> While I respect that you have your own beliefs, They are not mine, nor do I see the results you claim to see. At our shop and others, we are seeing quite the opposite. Regardless, I am not up for a long debate. I respectfully agree to disagree. Others reading this thread can make their own judgement call.


we are all entitled to our own beliefs 

but not our own facts 

the facts show that use of top tier fuel in direct injection engines like (CCTA and CBFA) reduces formation of carbon deposits in the intake and ccvv passages


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## shawng (Jul 28, 2007)

please provide these facts on top tier gas! I bet others here are eager to see them as well.


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## keefrichards (Sep 27, 2012)

I just had to have my CC back in after a month bc the RMS was leaking again. The dealership tech must not have crossed his T's and dotted his I's the first time. Hopefully now we're good.


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## BanamexDF (Jul 31, 2005)

Do you guys think this effects all TSI motors, or just earlier production ones? I have a '13 CC and am getting a bit spooked with what I'm reading lately...


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## donjuan1jr (Oct 8, 2008)

I've seen failures in 2 ways...worn or just blown off that plate. The new new tsi has an even bigger problem with rms leaks. 

Most Gen 1 tsi failures I've done are on higher mileage or older vehicles. Did one yesterday with 49k on an 09 passat. 

It sucks, just waiting for the day I have to do one on my wife's tiguan.


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## msellers34 (Feb 12, 2015)

I'm willing to bet that most problems this engine has can be attributed to the 10k mile oil change interval. Granted that synthetics can last longer; however when contaminants (gas and water) are making there way into the oil (which is unavoidable) it will degrade faster. Perhaps excessive amounts of gasoline are causing the rms failure by dissoling the sealant used on the rms. Idk, eother way it probably isn't a bad idea to change your oil every 5k miles.


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## ssoares (May 20, 2015)

*Rear main seal*

I have a small oil leak - dealership says rear main seal. They can't get me in to fix it for 2 weeks. As long as I keep the oil topped up, how long can I go before this causes major damage?


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## kbad (May 26, 2007)

hey man .. is oil dripping onto your garage floor? how often/much are you topping off? is it wet around the outside of the housing or just gunky? ... for the most part, i believe all of these engines pretty much have an rms issue, or will eventually! .. depending on the answers above and how you drive, it may last a while, but it may also take just a little pressure to blow it completely, its really a crapshoot - however, when it blows, it will pour out and you'll know for sure, eh! .. as far as getting it fixed, make sure they do it correctly - wouldnt want a do-over - ask that a seasoned and experienced mechanic do the work .. but more importantly, you need to find out what caused the rms to deteriorate and fail in order to prevent the new one from failing .. good luck!


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## ssoares (May 20, 2015)

Yes, visible oil on the ground. Checking level every week, not much leaking. The car has 160k and I drive mainly highway 50k a day. This car has had problems since I drove it off the lot new. After the first 2 weeks I had fuel injector issues. Had it back to VW four times before they gave up and just replaced them. Last year I had a costly coolent leak. And the list goes on. I'm getting tired of these costly repairs. I'm thinking of trading it in and want to know if I can run it for a few weeks until I decide. I'm being told that as long as I keep the oil topped up, I should be ok. Sound right?


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

msellers34 said:


> I'm willing to bet that most problems this engine has can be attributed to the 10k mile oil change interval. Granted that synthetics can last longer; however when contaminants (gas and water) are making there way into the oil (which is unavoidable) it will degrade faster. Perhaps excessive amounts of gasoline are causing the rms failure by dissoling the sealant used on the rms. Idk, eother way it probably isn't a bad idea to change your oil every 5k miles.


The rear seal fails when the PCV check-valve fails open. When that happens, you get boost pressure in the crankcase, which pushes out the seal. Nothing to do with the oil.


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

shawng said:


> please provide these facts on top tier gas! I bet others here are eager to see them as well.


Carbon deposits are caused by incomplete combustion. Fuel quality is a factor, but usually it has more to do with tuning.


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## shawng (Jul 28, 2007)

I own a repair shop. I have read countless reports written by industry professionals. I have spoken with many others in the industry and not once has fuel quality come up as a contributing factor, so I ask again to all reading, please post a verifiable report stating fuel quality is an contributing factor to carbon build up. I am not disputing, I just want proof.


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

As far as top-tier is concerned, only "independent" report I'm aware of is one by SWRI, which I believe was commissioned by Shell. However, their findings are disputed by Exxon and the EPA, among others, and the whole thing sounds more like a marketing gimmick than actual science to me.

Where fuel quality can cause carbon build-up is if it's been sitting for a long time or is stored improperly at the filling station, and absorbs moisture and/or contaminants. However, this is pretty uncommon in developed countries, so we're back to misfires due to some mechanical failure being the main culprit.


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## onevrsix (May 27, 2010)

I just had my Rear Main seal replaced and now I can't boost above 3psi...could that be due to the PCV being stuck open?


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

More likely that you have a boost leak elsewhere, but it's easy enough to test if the check valve is stuck open. Disconnect the hose from the intake manifold and try to blow into it. If you can, then it's stuck open.


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## onevrsix (May 27, 2010)

O_o said:


> More likely that you have a boost leak elsewhere, but it's easy enough to test if the check valve is stuck open. Disconnect the hose from the intake manifold and try to blow into it. If you can, then it's stuck open.


Yeah, or the incompetent VW tech forgot to plug the MAP sensor back in :banghead: "Car felt fine on the test drive & I have no way of knowing whether your boost gauge is accurate"  Got the car back, scanned it with VCDS and noticed it was throwing the below code; checked the MAP sensor and problem solved. Guy at the shop trying to tell me he went over everything yet somehow missed this. 

000568 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31) 
P0238 - 000 - Signal too High - MIL ON


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## MrRline (Apr 6, 2010)

Sorry if it's slightly off topic, but would changing out to a catch can with the plate like CTS offers be a solution to resolving the failed PCV? I've had mine fail twice now, but luckily I haven't had an RMS leak. Mine ended up going through the oil cap.


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

By definition, a catch can set-up that replaces the PCV assembly will prevent PCV failure. Of course, there is the possibility of catch-can failure...


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## MrRline (Apr 6, 2010)

O_o said:


> By definition, a catch can set-up that replaces the PCV assembly will prevent PCV failure. Of course, there is the possibility of catch-can failure...


catch can failure?


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## shawng (Jul 28, 2007)

Depending on where you live, catch can freezing is a very real issue. A frozen catch can can destroy a RMS just as easily as a failed PCV.


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

shawng said:


> Depending on where you live, catch can freezing is a very real issue. A frozen catch can can destroy a RMS just as easily as a failed PCV.


Yep. They can also clog, overflow, bust a hose, etc...


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## Gwizard (Jun 17, 2015)

*Rear main blown*

I have 2009 EOS with 102K that had to replace failed PCV and a week later I noticed burning oil odor. took it in to dealer and was diagnosed with blown rear seal.


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## keenan_jeff (May 2, 2002)

Gwizard said:


> I have 2009 EOS with 102K that had to replace failed PCV and a week later I noticed burning oil odor. took it in to dealer and was diagnosed with blown rear seal.


Sorry to hear I started this thread for my Tiguan it cost $1,500 to replace the seal VWOA offered to pay $0 after many many calls.

On the good side this is the only problem I have had with the tiguan and it is running great I bought it very well $13k so had some in the budget.


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## postulio (Jul 2, 2015)

kbad said:


> hey man .. is oil dripping onto your garage floor? how often/much are you topping off? is it wet around the outside of the housing or just gunky? ... for the most part, i believe all of these engines pretty much have an rms issue, or will eventually! .. depending on the answers above and how you drive, it may last a while, but it may also take just a little pressure to blow it completely, its really a crapshoot - however, when it blows, it will pour out and you'll know for sure, eh! .. as far as getting it fixed, make sure they do it correctly - wouldnt want a do-over - ask that a seasoned and experienced mechanic do the work .. but more importantly, you need to find out what caused the rms to deteriorate and fail in order to prevent the new one from failing .. good luck!



I have a leaky RMS, been leaking for months now as far as I know (bought car used from family member who passed away). The undercarriage is wet and it stains the pavement. Don't know when the oil was last topped off but it was 2 qts low when I checked it after owning it about 5 weeks. 

Planning on getting it repaired in two weeks. Was quoted $500 for labor + whatever parts cost from my mechanic. No idea how it is failing, from what I understand the PCV is fine (any good way to check? I'm a newbie but very technical). I've had the HPFP, LPFP, injectors and throttle body all replaced so far. Is there anything I should draw the mechanic's attention to while he is performing this repair? 

I'm all for preventative care, I don't know if the intake manifold has been replaced or not, ditto for the PCV. 

Any advice is appreciated. Car is 2009 Passat 2.0t TSI. 93K miles.


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## Eddy67 (Dec 16, 2015)

I seem to have the same code now, its an 09 Passat, when the engine is running if I remove the oil cap there seems to be vacuum in the engine due to it sucking the cap down, this was when the engine was ice cold I don't know what happens when its hot, does this sound like a PCV valve? I have oil leaks also, I was told it was from the upper oil pan gasket, the mechanics did see bubbling out of the seem, this shows that there is pressure in the engine so I am not sure what's going on, the engine was also hot at the time. I was hoping that a new PCV valve would reduce the pressure and slow the oil leak down I was surprise to see it was under vacuum, does this seem like the PCV valve problem?


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## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

- A properly functioning PCV unit will have a slight vacuum, at idle, in the crankcase/valve-cover. I think a vacuum of an inch or so of mercury. 

- A PCV unit with a torn diaphragm of the pressure regulating valve section will cause a large vacuum (at idle) in the crankcase/valve-cover. This sometimes causes the rear main crankcase seal to separate from its backing plate, causing an oil leak. Also can cause "Excessive air at idle", "Lean idle", and sometimes idle misfire DTC codes. Idle vacuum is about 18 to 20 inches of mercury.

- A PCV unit with a stuck or leaking check-valve will allow positive turbo boost pressure into the crankcase/valve-cover, causing oil to be pushed thru seals and gaskets. Stock max boost is approx. 9 to 11 PSI.


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## rommeldawg (May 25, 2009)

shawng there are multiple tsb's from most all manufacturers discussing the use of "top tier" fuels to reduce various issues with all cars. but as you have already stated and from what we have seen with any direct injection engine is that the fuel is never washing over the valve itself and with the extended oil service and inconsistent or improper oil spec the carbon build-up is accelerated as is the failure of the pcv system. oil quality is critical as is a reduced service interval imo. as for the rear mains on these cars, well lets face it they are crap designs.. the seal failure is the bonding to the housing and the design implementation of the crank trigger to the seal requires dropping the pan and a very specialized alignment tool to install.


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## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

You have to drop the transmission, not the oil pan, to change the rear main crankshaft seal. As far as the special alignment tool for the install of a new seal....somebody used a paper cup to do this, the "tool" prevents damaging the seal when it is slid over the end of the crankshaft.


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## rommeldawg (May 25, 2009)

that's if the trigger for the crank isn't attached to the rear seal there are gas and diesels that have the trigger pushed onto the rear of the crank


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## [email protected] (Jun 11, 2014)

I actually just blew my rear main seal out due to the lines freezing up on my catch can setup. We're actually in the process of using the slightly better designed Gen3 TSI rear main seal.
I'll let you guys know how it goes once everything is back together. Right now I just need to get my newly converted to AWD transmission installed to the car.


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## rommeldawg (May 25, 2009)

[email protected] pictures! and the liqui-moly rep was just down and was very impressed with you guys :beer:


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## N BUDNIK (Jan 21, 2016)

*Regular maintance - replace PVC valve at 60km*

The rear main seal needs to be replaced. $1,500.00 repair. Defect or not, to be preventative this should be regular maintenance !!


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## shawng (Jul 28, 2007)

The RMS is not a maintenance item. Changing it before failure will not cost you less or prevent other issues (other than soaking a clutch). The RMS should last the life of the vehicle for most people. I can see replacing it when a clutch is done, but no other time.


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## EngTech1 (Nov 30, 2008)

keenan_jeff said:


> update on this the dealer is saying the pcv not broken on this car.
> 
> I found some other mention of rear main seal not being installed properly at the factory (not enough rtv sealant)
> 
> ...


_*BS - 134K and the Manifold was done 62K - No - PVC work , I have changed the Plugs & Coil Packs - which were Not Needed but did so do due to miles on them .

I wash out the Motor with Marvel every other change - just Add 2-4 Oz to Oil and run for 30-60 miles / Then Drop it all / I Add 1-2 Oz of Lucas to the Change
After Oil gets Warmed up - maybe 4 Oz If I'm going on a Long Hot Summer Trip . 

So Far so Good ..

*__*UPDATE - TIMING CHAIN - DROPPED OFF ! 3/17/2016 - CC - IS DEAD AS FAR AS I'M CONCERNED !
I Don't have a Spare $3500.00 Dollars laying around .. or .. and Extra Engine ..

*_


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## EngTech1 (Nov 30, 2008)

shawng said:


> While I respect that you have your own beliefs, They are not mine, nor do I see the results you claim to see. At our shop and others, we are seeing quite the opposite. Regardless, I am not up for a long debate. I respectfully agree to disagree. Others reading this thread can make their own judgement call.



OK Top Tier Fuel - only has more Cleaning Agents but the Higher Octane is seen by the Motor and so Spark Advance may be used more , also the Higher Octane give a Large Explosion in the Cly.
Those 2 Items just Mention - Make the Rings on the Pistons - Expand more - ( More Expansion - Means Less Oil Blow By ) 
The Oil Blow By is what's Leading to Carbon Built Up on the Valves - which have No Means of Being Washed Off ! Read: ( Fuel in the Intake System )


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## shawng (Jul 28, 2007)

After reading your last 2 posts 5 times, My comment that you quoted still stands. I am glad that you are happy in your beliefs that what you do works wonders for your engine. In the past 7 months info on GDI engine carbon buildup has increased substantially. So have the solutions and preventative measures. There is a thread in the Tiguan forum when're I have commented. I would add them in here, but I know you would never believe them as they mostly contradict your practices.


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## ViRtUaLheretic (Aug 17, 2008)

Im interested in the details about the gen3 tsi RMS.


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## shawng (Jul 28, 2007)

you an me both. Dying to know how well it fits and works.


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## [email protected] (Jun 11, 2014)

I've actually been driving around with the Mk7 rear main seal on my car for the past few weeks. So far no signs of leaking yet. :beer:
Haven't had any issues whatsoever actually, though I suppose only time will tell. The next time I have the transmission off to install a stronger clutch (it currently has a Southbend Stage 2 Daily)will be when I install a bigger turbocharger.
That of course will depend on how much seat time I get in the car with the drivetrain swap on track. I don't plan on putting more power down until I've made sure everything is reliable.


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## rcprato (Sep 14, 2007)

Noticed a substantial amount of oil on garage floor this morning and again at lunch time so I decided to check oil level and none on the dipstick, VW dealer is 5 minute walk from my office so I took over and asked to have it checked out, tada it needs a new rear main seal.

I have been driving VW's for 30 years and put 200K on many of them, this B5 Passat is first one to blow a RMS but I guess it's just my turn. This is on top of a valve spring breaking last summer causing the upper end of my engine being rebuilt including new timing chain tensioner and chain guides.

I am at 133K and would like to keep driving this car another few years, it is lightly modified with suspension work, APR Stage 1 Tune and Miltek CAT Back exhaust so it is a fun DD, too bad with this repair I out about $5K in repair over last 9 months.

Has anybody used the RMS Housing from iABED Industries ?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160308/82755f142616bccb2e60b1631632c77b.jpg

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7663393-Quick-Rear-Main-Seal-Help


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## Dirtmvr (Feb 28, 2016)

I've been following this thread with interest as I've got a new TSI--apparently they have already been having RMS/PCV issues too so VW obviously didn't fix the problem. 
I have to wonder if ethanol (10% here) isn't a contributing factor to the failure of the PCV diaphragm? Ethanol absolutely destroys diaphragms in small gas carbs like mowers etc.
I'm curious how many of you guys with RMS failures burn gas with 10% ethanol?


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## shawng (Jul 28, 2007)

Interesting thought on the ethanol. To be honest I don't know. In Ontario, 10% ethanol is standard on all fuels and has been this way for years. Ethanol is really a scourge for everything so it is possible.


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## rcprato (Sep 14, 2007)

Dirtmvr said:


> I've been following this thread with interest as I've got a new TSI--apparently they have already been having RMS/PCV issues too so VW obviously didn't fix the problem.
> I have to wonder if ethanol (10% here) isn't a contributing factor to the failure of the PCV diaphragm? Ethanol absolutely destroys diaphragms in small gas carbs like mowers etc.
> I'm curious how many of you guys with RMS failures burn gas with 10% ethanol?


I have used gas with Ethanol since Day 1, it is pretty common for having 10% at the stations I use.

There is starting to be a few options for Ethanol free gas in my area, I use it sometimes.

The PCV is recirculating crank case vapors, wouldn't that be mostly from the oil in crankcase?


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

Dirtmvr said:


> I've been following this thread with interest as I've got a new TSI--apparently they have already been having RMS/PCV issues too so VW obviously didn't fix the problem.
> I have to wonder if ethanol (10% here) isn't a contributing factor to the failure of the PCV diaphragm? Ethanol absolutely destroys diaphragms in small gas carbs like mowers etc.
> I'm curious how many of you guys with RMS failures burn gas with 10% ethanol?


From a service stand point we are seeing them more and more on Tiguan's.
I have heard a bunch of theories from larger track of a Tiguan to the bigger transmissions but nothing is concrete in my opinion.
That being said these are in stock ready to rock and roll! :thumbup::beer:


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## rcprato (Sep 14, 2007)

Having the RMS replaced today, thank you Issam at INA for getting me the new RMS sent out so quickly.



























The guys at the shop where I took car to be fixed were impressed with the new RMS, have done a few of these on other 2.0T engines using new OEM RMS but will switch to this one now!


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

rcprato said:


> Having the RMS replaced today, thank you Issam at INA for getting me the new RMS sent out so quickly.


Anytime!
Thank you for the feedback! We are finding more and more service outlets are opting to have this overnighted to get vehicles off the hoist. As of right now we are almost half way through our production run of 100 pieces 
To answer some of the PM's previously , this will work on all EA888 engines , whether 1.8 TSI GEN 1 or 1.8 TSI GEN 3 as well as all 2.0 TSI engines.


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## 16vsilverstreak (Dec 5, 2001)

My 2009 Tiguan had the rear main seal replaced before I purchased it.


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## vwbrvr6 (Jul 31, 2002)

I wonder how having the ECU tuned effects the RMS. Higher boost=higher pressures?


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

vwbrvr6 said:


> I wonder how having the ECU tuned effects the RMS. Higher boost=higher pressures?


From experience it has nothing to do with a tuned ECU. 
Regionally , no shop in Ontario or Quebec installs an OEM Rear main seal from the dealer. Unless they are living under a rock , they typically install our kit so we are getting alot of feedback under what conditions they are failing. 
Failures are happening on anything from FWD Manual Tiguan's to 4WD Automatic Tiguan's to Passat CC's etc driven by people of all ages and various mileage. 
The lowest mileage was 78K that the dealer refused to warranty because a tow hitch was installed after market (I know I know :screwy

A tuned ECU can't cause a failure on a poorly designed component.


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## kbad (May 26, 2007)

INA said:


> .. it has nothing to do with a tuned ECU .. Failures are happening on anything .. and various mileage ... tuned ECU can't cause a failure on a poorly designed component.


ditto Isaam .. a tuned ecu expects solid components, if not upgraded ones - like the iabed rms flange - with expanded tolerances and solid quality manufacturing - the way it should be, eh .. the rms should last the life of the vehicle under normal conditions - the oem vag part from the factory will blow on you eventually, tuned or not .. i'm betting all direct injection engine factory seals become compromised soon after carbon buildup begins, with the weakest blowing the soonest and so on until you replace them all, eventually .. good luck!


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## shawng (Jul 28, 2007)

And neither carbon build up or direct injection are at fault. The most common failure of the RMS is due to pressure buildup in the crankcase causing the seal to separate from the flange.


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

shawng said:


> The most common failure of the RMS is due to pressure buildup in the crankcase causing the seal to separate from the flange.


Correct
PCV fails (covered under warranty) then the RMS fails (50% of the time not covered under warranty)

btw being from Ottawa , a few select dealerships have installed our kit as an alternative to the OEM part. :thumbup:


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## rcprato (Sep 14, 2007)

In my post above you can see that my RMS was replaced in my Passat with unit from INA and I am not worried at this point that if I do get a condition with higher than normal crank case pressure the seal will fail.

The VW group should not have cut corners with this new design for the RMS in their engines, the earlier generation engines RMS never failed.


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## EngTech1 (Nov 30, 2008)

rcprato said:


> Noticed a substantial amount of oil on garage floor this morning and again at lunch time so I decided to check oil level and none on the dipstick, VW dealer is 5 minute walk from my office so I took over and asked to have it checked out, tada it needs a new rear main seal.
> 
> I have been driving VW's for 30 years and put 200K on many of them, this B5 Passat is first one to blow a RMS but I guess it's just my turn. This is on top of a valve spring breaking last summer causing the upper end of my engine being rebuilt including new timing chain tensioner and chain guides.
> 
> ...



My Best Senior - Advise CUT & RUN . . Really Thou - we all need some form of Transportation - that - Natural Gas Power 60 MPH - V-Twin Air Cooled - Golf Cart with Canvas and 
Windows for $7500.oo Is starting to look Excellent .

All the Oil Companies are screwing Us Blind - Big Business HA !
I have Busted 3 stations for having 12-14% in the Fuel - Ate the Internals to My Tractor Motor . . that's another story .
The there is the BS - PVC systems - Gummy - Crap forming on Valves from SHI&TY OIL - Tar Crap - Recycled Vapors !

_*Simple V-Twin Golf Cart - is Looking Really Smart !:beer:*_


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## dvway (Dec 20, 2016)

*2008 passat rms oil leak after pcv and intake fix*

2008 VW Passat – 83k miles

Issue - Engine light flashing and look like misfiring noticed during early morning start in cold weather. 
Vehicle was towed to VW Dealer service center immediately from parking lot
Dealer analyzed the car and told me that Breather Valve, Intake and Seal need to be replaced and no other issues and quoted about $700 plus tax

After Dealer technician fixed the Breather Valve, Intake and Seal and started car for checking and noticed fresh oil leak started from RMS. Service adviser told me that after fixing the valve and intake, engine sucked the gasket to leak the oil. Dealer re-quoted $1500 fix overall 

Experts, Could you please help me to understand whether RMS oil leak caused by new valve or some mistake since there were no leak or mileage drop what so ever previously and also car was not driven after flash light on. Oil leak occurred only after new valve and intake fixed. 

Also, would like to know VW warranty extension for PCV valve and intake would cover the labor cost or not, since dealer didn’t inform me about this as I come to know from this forum. 

Appreciate your help on this


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## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

When the PCV unit ("breather valve") fails, it causes a much higher than normal vacuum in the crankcase, which then pulls the glued-on rear crankshaft seal off of its mounting plate, which then allows oil to leak out.


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## keefrichards (Sep 27, 2012)

I would call VW directly. Let them know the details and see what they come back with. I'm not sure of the exact amount they helped me out with but it was substantial when this happened to me.


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

CC'ed said:


> When the PCV unit ("breather valve") fails, it causes a much higher than normal vacuum in the crankcase, which then pulls the glued-on rear crankshaft seal off of its mounting plate, which then allows oil to leak out.


This.


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## VirgoPHD (Dec 12, 2014)

INA said:


> This.


While we are on the subject would the full a catch can setup with the Africa plate fix help eliminate this. I just got of the phone with @jackdanielsvw and they informed me that my oil separator went bad leaking oil. Causing me to get the infamous p2015 and a host of other codes.

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk


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## vwbrvr6 (Jul 31, 2002)

My mechanic told be get the Audi version of this for the 2.0. He said it is stronger and can take more pressure. Anyone hear of that?


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## Brightgolf (Jan 13, 2008)

My 2010 tiguans rms went at 78k last month. My pcv was bad for less than a day before I replaced it. It just happens. 

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

vwbrvr6 said:


> My mechanic told be get the Audi version of this for the 2.0. He said it is stronger and can take more pressure. Anyone hear of that?


The EA888.3 uses an "updated" seal whereby the seal does not dismember from the body. The seals still fail , MK7 1.8 TSI's and GTI's are still going in for warranty work where the seal fails.
IMHO (as biased as it sounds) , why try to save $20 on an updated seal when you can get a permanent solution from us that has certainly outlasted the OEM part in mileage alone.


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## [email protected] (Nov 25, 2010)

*2009 Jetta SportWagen SEL 2.0T TSI Rear Main Seal Leak*



INA said:


> The EA888.3 uses an "updated" seal whereby the seal does not dismember from the body. The seals still fail , MK7 1.8 TSI's and GTI's are still going in for warranty work where the seal fails.
> IMHO (as biased as it sounds) , why try to save $20 on an updated seal when you can get a permanent solution from us that has certainly outlasted the OEM part in mileage alone.


I just found out that my 2009 Jetta SportWagen SEL 2.0T TSI has a rear main seal leak at 78K miles. The PCV was leaking at 70K miles and I replaced it with the updated version, but apparently something still is wrong. How do I get the INA seal? Thanks.


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## kbad (May 26, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> ... How do I get the INA seal? ..


hey man .. you need a proper intake manifold/ports cleaning or you will continue to replace parts .. replacing pcv isn't enuf to resolve issues .. if they are replacing rms and don't install it properly, you will have issues with rms .. here's where you can order the ina rms from - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?t=8258017 ... good luck!


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## rcprato (Sep 14, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> I just found out that my 2009 Jetta SportWagen SEL 2.0T TSI has a rear main seal leak at 78K miles. The PCV was leaking at 70K miles and I replaced it with the updated version, but apparently something still is wrong. * How do I get the INA seal? Thanks.*




Go to INA's website and give them a call http://www.iabedindustries.com/

I put this RMS in my 08 Passat 2.0TSI, I am confident there will not be any more problems with my RMS


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## 95vento (May 28, 2002)

*My 09 Tiguan RMS failed at 85K. VWofA refused to even partially compensate.*

Did not realize to was an issue till I read of these common complaints. My PCV valve was not the cause.


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## ALTOID666 (Jun 6, 2017)

I have a 2009 Passat. The first RMS went at 63,000 miles 3 months ago. Paid for by extended warranty. And just one again at 67,500 miles. 
Although it's under warranty for 12 months from the first place I happen to be 700 miles away from it on vacation and the warranty company is paying for it all over again!


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## vwbrvr6 (Jul 31, 2002)

ALTOID666 said:


> I have a 2009 Passat. The first RMS went at 63,000 miles 3 months ago. Paid for by extended warranty. And just one again at 67,500 miles.
> Although it's under warranty for 12 months from the first place I happen to be 700 miles away from it on vacation and the warranty company is paying for it all over again!


It will blow again if you don't change the PCV


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

Hi Everyone, 
If you are in the continental USA , please go ahead and order the RMS's from XLR8 performance. They have them in stock and ready to ship.

http://vag.excelerateperformance.co...replaces-06h103171f/462103171f/i-2433730.aspx


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## Don® (Oct 11, 2011)

INA said:


> Hi Everyone,
> If you are in the continental USA , please go ahead and order the RMS's from XLR8 performance. They have them in stock and ready to ship.
> 
> http://vag.excelerateperformance.co...replaces-06h103171f/462103171f/i-2433730.aspx


Got mine direct from iABED.
I have to say, this upgrade to me is essential and is worth its amount just having a piece of mind, let alone reliability.
Good work Issam :thumbup:


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## JCMaler (Jan 8, 2003)

> *[email protected]:*
> I actually just blew my rear main seal out due to the lines freezing up on my catch can setup. We're actually in the process of using the slightly better designed Gen3 TSI rear main seal.
> I'll let you guys know how it goes once everything is back together. Right now I just need to get my newly converted to AWD transmission installed to the car.


This is very similar to my failure. I was running the car with too-watery a coolant level (was just adding distilled H2O while putting off an inevitable water pump job :facepalm, and on a cold day the coolant slushed/froze and blew out/cracked the plastic flange on the DS of the head (06J121132G). After replacing that, doing the water pump job, etc and driving it for 2 days.... Well that high pressure must have been the "nail-in-the-coffin" for my RMS, which leaked a 1/2-quart in a day, all over the newly-degreased engine/trans and subframe. I believe I had a leak already, and my PCV seems to be working fine (it was previously replaced ~5.5 years ago w/ a 'AC rev). 

I just took delivery on my iABED RMS, installation tool, and latest rev PCV ('AH) w/hose kit today/tomorrow :thumbup:

What sealant do you recommend on the iABED seal? Shall I use D 174 003 A2, or is there a cheaper generic equivalent I can use? RTV? -TIA!

FYI: MY 2009 GTI w/ 90.7k miles.


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## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

The freezing of your engine coolant is not related to your rear main crank seal failure...just bad luck...


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## vwbrvr6 (Jul 31, 2002)

CC'ed said:


> The freezing of your engine coolant is not related to your rear main crank seal failure...just bad luck...


I agree, two completely separate systems


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