# Mk4 Oem Ignitor



## Racer Rob (Aug 26, 2003)

I was wondering and i have searched on a dealer who sells the ignitor for a mk4 oem Hid part number 1 307 329 058
any info will be greatly appreciated


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## nater (Apr 10, 2000)

*Re: Mk4 Oem Ignitor (Racer Rob)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Racer Rob* »_I was wondering and i have searched on a dealer who sells the ignitor for a mk4 oem Hid part number 1 307 329 058
any info will be greatly appreciated 

Not exactly sure what you are asking....are you trying to find a dealer that will sell that? 
You won't find any here in the states, although the ignitor may match up to another Audi or similar car part, as those ignitors were common. 
I've got two versions of the ignitor in my basement...not sure if I want to sell them as they are hard to come by (inexpensively anyway) these days.
I'll see which ones I've got. Two prong vs three prong is the main difference in the MK4 ignitors.


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## Racer Rob (Aug 26, 2003)

*FV-QR*

mine is the 3 prong and yes i am looking for a source to purchase one at.
my other question is are these part number sensitive because i see a lot of ignitors that look the same but the last 3 numbers are different? 


_Modified by Racer Rob at 2:49 PM 1-21-2010_


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## nater (Apr 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Racer Rob)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Racer Rob* »_mine is the 3 prong and yes i am looking for a source to purchase one at.
my other question is are these part number sensitive because i see a lot of ignitors that look the same but the last 3 numbers are different? 

_Modified by Racer Rob at 2:49 PM 1-21-2010_

My experience with the BALLASTS is that the part #'s vary but look identical between car manufacturers but they work the same. Seem to have different part numbers (last three) for no real reason (maybe it's because it's mfr-specific). 
I would suspect the same for the ignitors as well. If it's 3-prong and is identical up until the last 3 numbers I'd place money that they will function the same. 
I'll check my part #'s when I get home later tonight.
BTW, the theory on the ballasts (different last 3 part numbers) has been tested and verified here in the lighting forum. If I get motivated later I'll try and find that thread for you. But I know...we are talking ignitors here, not ballasts.


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## Racer Rob (Aug 26, 2003)

*FV-QR*

correct i have three ballasts here and they all work the bulbs both work as well do you have any idea on how to replace these ignitors as well without breaking something inside the housing


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## nater (Apr 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (Racer Rob)*

Yes, the ignitors are held in by a bracket and a couple screws on the inside of one of the covers on the back of the light.
Simply remove the light cover on the rear of the light and they should be held in on the back of the cover (on the inside). That's by memory, so for those of you that have more to add please do so.


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## Racer Rob (Aug 26, 2003)

*FV-QR*

well i got that far with them but its getting the part that attaches to the bulb out of that section its like you would have to finagle it quite a bit


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## fixmy59bug (Apr 9, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (Racer Rob)*

Only on the Bora OEM HID's are they easily replaceable. As nater said, they are attached to the cover on the back of the light housing.
On the Golf OEM HID's you would have to disassemble the whole headlight housing as they are atached inside the housing. According to Vw, they are not separately replaceable.


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## nater (Apr 10, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (fixmy59bug)*


_Quote, originally posted by *fixmy59bug* »_Only on the Bora OEM HID's are they easily replaceable. As nater said, they are attached to the cover on the back of the light housing.
On the Golf OEM HID's you would have to disassemble the whole headlight housing as they are atached inside the housing. According to Vw, they are not separately replaceable.

Oh yea...been a while. Thanks,








OP: if you've got the BORA HIDs then yes, you need to kinda work it out...but it will come out.


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## Racer Rob (Aug 26, 2003)

*FV-QR*

these are golf oem hids. i can detach it from the cover just cant get it out


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## Racer Rob (Aug 26, 2003)

*FV-QR*

so my mind started to wander so i cut the old (bad) ignitor wiring.. do you think if i got the new one that i could cut them and sauder them back together.. just because i heard all the nightmares of taking oem hids apart


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## nater (Apr 10, 2000)

*FV-QR*

Which wire/wires?
If you cut the high voltage wire then it's very hard to get that insulated very well enough...That wire takes 22000 volts at startup. 
If it's the other wires then yes, very easy to re-connect.


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## Racer Rob (Aug 26, 2003)

*FV-QR*









heres what im talking about


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## albaneg (Apr 23, 2004)

*Replacing the OEM Ignitor on MK4 R32*

I know that I have a bad ignitor, I was able to get a replacement shipped from http://www.oemxenonpart.com , however I cant find any info anywhere how to replace the part. They only thing that I heard is that its a pain.

Any suggestions?


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## albaneg (Apr 23, 2004)

*How to replace an HID Ignitor*

After serveral hours spent in researching how to replace the ignitor, the only options available were to either BAKE the headlight in the oven for 90 sec to take apart the lense or cut a duct for the wire.

I checked with someone that works on HID conversions and he stated that cutting the Ignitor wire is extremely dangerous being that is next to impossible to seal it back (10,000 volts go thru the ignitor).

So I decided on my day off to take the task in my own hands. Here is what I got.

After taking the front bumper off, and removing the light assembly as described elsewhere here on vwvortex, I tried in every which way to take the ignitor off... with NO SUCCESS.

Tools you will need:

* Dremel tool w/ a cutting disk*
* Masking tape*
* Paper Towel*
*business card or flat head screw driver*

1. To ensure that you dont get that nasty plastic dust inside the lenses, I placed a paper towel between the area that I am going to cut. 


2. After the cut and possible clean up ( I had none thanks to the paper towel), I removed the old ignitor by sliding it by the gap.


3. Slide the new ignitor thru the gap


4. Now you should have the ignitor in place. Make sure that its all in order and mount the xenon bulb and unit.



5. I placed a piece of masking tape and tack by the cut. This will be needed for the acrylic fill.



6. Here is what I used for the silicon/acrylic fill. If you like at the end you can also paint the fill black.


7. You only need a bit of past. Make sure you put enough to cover the all cut.
 

8. Use a business card to smooth out the past or a flat head screwdriver, then use a damp paper towel to clean up the excess. At the end it should look like this


I left my to dry overnight. You can paint the acrylic fill if you like. 

I mounted my lights and they work great with the new ignitor!


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