# 10V NG CIS-E - Hot Start and Idle issues



## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

Car hasnt run in a few years I am working on cleaning it up and getting it running again. 
So I cleaned the fuel distributor and all sorts of other goodies, soaked banjo bolts in mineral spirits, new fuel filter, soaked fuel pump to break down the old gas nastiness, installed a temp filter in front of fuel pump. 
The car cold starts and idles pretty well it will rev good enough. 
Once the car is hot it doesnt restart period, if I spray about .5s of ether near the intake (very little) the car fires right up and will run with out a problem again. 
The thermo-time switch was just flopping around behind the head prior to my cleaning. I bolted it in and cleaned the fuel dizzy at the same time and since then things have been haywire. 
Suggestions where to start?


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## ziddey (Apr 16, 2006)

*Re: 10V NG CIS-E - Hot Start and Idle issues (ejg3855)*

When you cleaned the fuel dizzy, did you recheck the rest position of the airplate? Something like 1.9mm or roughly a nickel recessed iirc. Also, if the idle mixture was adjusted before to compensate for a dirty dizzy, maybe it needs to be readjusted now?
When you say the TTS switch was flopping, you mean the plug for it? The TTS/CSV only works when cranking, and if the TTS is working, only when cold (and assuming the CSV isn't stuck closed or open).
Sounds like maybe you're having a residual pressure problem / vapor lock? How are your fuel injector o-rings? With the car running, what if you spray some ether around the injectors?

And when the car is warm, can you start it if you give the accelerator pedal some love?


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## Southcross (Jul 2, 2004)

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_Quote, originally posted by *ziddey* »_
Sounds like maybe you're having a residual pressure problem / vapor lock? How are your fuel injector o-rings? With the car running, what if you spray some ether around the injectors?


I'd guess along those lines... leaking fuel injectors, especially if the car sat for a while. When you cleaned the fuel dizzy, did you disassemble it, or did you just clean the outside of it?


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## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

I took off all the lines and took the hat off the air box. I cleaned the pic as best as I could but I didn't physically open the dizzy I was advised not too.
The tts just controls the cold start injector correct? 
It prolly could use new injector seals I will go order some from gap


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## ziddey (Apr 16, 2006)

*Re: (ejg3855)*

nice. gap is real quick to where you are. should absolutely order the injector pullers unless you've somehow already pulled them all out. make sure to get the green viton ones. be warned though. they are a huge bitch to get on, unless you come up with some sort of crafty method (if you do, let me know!)
yes the tts/csv only functions when the key is in the crank position. maybe you should consider getting a csv gasket with your order if you plan on pulling it out to see how it's behaving (stuck open--spraying full time / not spraying when cranking when engine is cold / tts harness is jumpered)
right the internals of the dizzy aren't "serviceable." but have you checked the rest position of the airplate? how about piston free travel?
what's your ignition timing set to?


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## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

*Re: (ziddey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ziddey* »_nice. gap is real quick to where you are. should absolutely order the injector pullers unless you've somehow already pulled them all out. make sure to get the green viton ones. be warned though. they are a huge bitch to get on, unless you come up with some sort of crafty method (if you do, let me know!)
yes the tts/csv only functions when the key is in the crank position. maybe you should consider getting a csv gasket with your order if you plan on pulling it out to see how it's behaving (stuck open--spraying full time / not spraying when cranking when engine is cold / tts harness is jumpered)
right the internals of the dizzy aren't "serviceable." but have you checked the rest position of the airplate? how about piston free travel?
what's your ignition timing set to?


I will figure out a way to get the injectors in or out I am guessing it wont be fun, do I need the tool if I pop off the intake manifold? 
There is a lot of free travel on the airplate it moves easily, the piston moved easily too once I cleaned it up. I am not too sure how to set it. 
I am not sure what the timing is set to or how to check it, I installed the distributer, cam and crank all to TDC so I would assume its at zero. 
Should I pull the csv under hot starts to see if it does or doesnt spray fuel ?
Thanks a ton!!!!


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## ziddey (Apr 16, 2006)

*Re: (ejg3855)*

The airplate should rest about a nickel's thickness below the ridge. Underneath it should be either a bendable piece or an adjustable nut to set the height. Once set, you should be able to push it all the way down and it'll bounce back to the proper height.
Also, I'm not sure if setting everything to the marks makes the ignition timing tdc or 6'btdc. Never done that before. But with a timing gun, you can verify. If your ignition timing is indeed at tdc instead of 6'btdc, you're losing a bit of power, and for sure, starting will be harder if not impossible without throttle. Harbor freight sells an adjustable timing light for pretty cheap ($20-30 or something like that)
As for the CSV, the only time it should spray is with a cold engine while cranking. So if it doesn't spray then or it continues to spray/dribble with the engine on, you've got a problem. TTS/CSV really isn't too necessary in the summertime over there, but during the winter, you'd probably want it to work.


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## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

I have a timing light but I am really not sure where to look on the crank for timing, with all the covers on there or do I need to remove the lower one by the crank pulley. 
Little help on that side would be awesome thank you!


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## ziddey (Apr 16, 2006)

*Re: (ejg3855)*

I'm not exactly sure. I've never tried. I do remember before I got a timing light, I had the smog tech check out my 85 gli's timing and he shot it at the drive belts, and there was a notch that showed up somewhere.
I've always checked it at the flywheel. There may just be a window or there may be a cover you need to yank off. If it's got a cover that's anything like the mk2's, you'll need to not only pop the inside part off but also the larger piece (just removing the small cover only allows some special vag tool to fit in or something, and you'll need more exposure to get a good look).
I don't know about the 10v's, but the 8v's love advance. Mine feels nice at 8'btdc. Not sure how much of an impact it really is from the stock 6'btdc, but if you're actually at 0, it'll be huge.


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## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

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I believe I need to check the accumulator also, I am not sure how to check it though.....???....


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## Southcross (Jul 2, 2004)

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I've never personally tried it:


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## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

*FV-BumpIt(1248205731435)*

Thanks!


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## prom king (Aug 14, 2004)

Where is the frequency valve on a CIS-E car?


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