# Bleeder block "revisions"? OEM/ECS oring kit, explanations? Questions?



## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

Yeah, I know...that is a lot in the title. 

So, I've been digging around since I had been having my "upgraded clutch" problem in the spring, etc. I ended up buying a new bleeder block from the dealer. When purchased I received a "C" version. My previous had been a "B" version. I couldn't really tell any differences from them. Apparently, its the same on ECS as here is the "B" version

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-TT_MKI-Quattro-225HP/Drivetrain/Clutch/Hydraulic/ES454586/

Here is the "C" version...

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-TT_MKI-Quattro-225HP/Drivetrain/Clutch/Hydraulic/ES251250/

I can't figure what the difference is...but, they both fit? Just an oddity? It also could be that the 8N (B version) is the specific audi P/N and the 1J is due to the fact that it is spec'd by VW for the MKIV 02m (1J prefix). Either way, probably no difference (other than slight price). 

The other interesting thing is the oring kit ECS sells...found here...

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-TT_MKI-Quattro-225HP/Drivetrain/Clutch/Hydraulic/ES2536254/

I just bought this kit "in case" my problem creeps back. I had replaced the complete clutch, slave, master, etc. in the spring with my winter build/GTTx upgrade, etc. Installed a custom Falcon clutch, etc. Had been having disengagement issues (slight). Only "new" orings in the system would be the one that came on the "new" slave cylinder. 


So, for piece of mind I bought the above oring kit which would replace both orings at the slave and bleeder block. However, the ECS piece is OEM VW and it comes with those two "cap" gaskets. 

What are they for? For the life I me, I can't remember either the old slave having one of those on the end OR the clutch line that goes into the other side of the bleeder block. 

Is this a revision of the gasket/oring kit to improve seal? 

Here is a picture of what I am talking about. 










Just curious if anyone has further experience. I haven't installed "any" of them yet but may for piece of mind if this is to prevent any potential air in the system. 

I can't see any of my lines leaking at all...but the pedal still isn't as hard at the top as I would like it to be. 

Joe


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Joe, your prolly on the right page as the revision change is an update to include the later 02M's into the part fitment.


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

Are we to use the "cap" gasket things that come with the orings then on both the slave cylinder end and hydraulic line for pedal side of the line to the bleeder?
Does it promote better seal?

Joe


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...l-Review-Eurowise-O2M-clutch-cylinder-upgrade

Quote from my master cyl upgrade thread, I just dealt with this issue:



l88m22vette said:


> Finally an update, I had a bear of a time finding the solution to my clutch line leak issues, ordered parts, tired them, still leaks, until now. It turns out there is a second version of the seal for the short clutch hardline going into the bleeder block. I am using the revised ECS bleeder block, the short hardline with a full seal plug (instead of a simple o-ring, I think its from a mk4), and its connected to the Eurowise hose. Bled the clutch cylinder first, then did a power bleed as per the Bentley, and I have a solid clutch pedal! Yay no more leaks. I sent the rest of the day getting the interior and engine bay back together, I left the lower dash off to have easy access during the test/teething phase, and I still need a solution to a pedalstop and mounting the switches, I'd like them fully functional ASAP. All I need now is oil, coolant, and a fresh battery, and I will get up driving reviews soon.
> 
> Newer, seal plug version on the top. I am pretty sure the plug seal is the earlier version used by VW and go in place of the o-ring (they look to be able to slip over my TT's newer version's tip, at the bottom left), and you can buy a set of two with two o-rings from ECS for about $30. However, I didn't test that so can't confirm.


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

So we can/should use this?

They just go on either end of the hard line?

Joe


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

It worked with the ECS bleeder so it gets my vote, no the seals only go on the left in the pic above, you can see the difference of with and without the large o-ring. For clarification, there is no second o-ring on the top hardline, its a single thick (wide?) o-ring that attaches in the same groove the thin o-ring uses. The right side of the hardline is the single, thin o-ring and is the same for both hardlines pictured.


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

Probably sound like an idiot here then.

So, if I am going to use this kit to replace items down there for the sake of being completely leak free and sealed tight...

I would use...

1 oring on slave side...

1 oring on hard line side

1 cap seal hard line side (into bleeder block)

So where would the other go?

Joe


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

That's not really a kit, you'd use a thin o-ring on the threaded side of the hardline and the think/wide o-ring on the clip side that goes into the bleeder block. I'm not sure about the hose->cyl clutch sealing since I have a Tilton master cylinder now. You'll end up with leftover o-rings, what ECS sells is just an extra seal set.


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

Makes me wonder if that other cap one doesn't go on the stock MC side of the stock clutch line...

I did the MC replacement so quick that I don't remember whether it was just a plain oring or whether it was more of a fancy deal like the one side of the bleeder block.

Joe


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