# removing/ installing downpipe, easy?



## jedge1.8t (Jan 27, 2012)

I have scheduled a appointment for a local exhaust fabricator, and he repelled me from doing a turbo back because no matter anything changed to the cats or before them, it wont pass smog.

I dont have a problem with switching back to the stock system, but i dont want to be dropping a subframe when doing so. and I WANT a 3" turbo back.

alot of people find it easiest to cut the stock downpipe into 2, now my idea is what about conjoining 2 the two cut pieces with flanges so you have a 2 piece stock downpipe that can be replaced without having to drop the subframe.



















I have a 3" downpipe sitting at the moment but it is a one piece unit, would i need to fab it into a 2 piece unit to install it without the dropping the subframe?


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## Corrado SLC NL (May 3, 2005)

as far as I know you have to in order to get the new up there but I havent done mine yet so I might be wrong. will be doing mine soon as well


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## 20psi now (Feb 26, 2009)

You should beable to slide it up there and twist it around some and a 3" fits just fine. I have had my 42dd of a number of times with out dropping the subframe. As long as the car is a good bit off the ground it should not put up too big of a fight.


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

20psi now said:


> You should beable to slide it up there and twist it around some and a 3" fits just fine. I have had my 42dd of a number of times with out dropping the subframe. As long as the car is a good bit off the ground it should not put up too big of a fight.


+1 on that


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

I know there were some write ups out there somewhere...I couldn't find one despite knowing I've seen it before...maybe it wasn't on fourti

anybody know of any?


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## cruzanstx (Oct 10, 2011)

If I were you I would just drop the subframe Its really easy, well if you have a lift. I got this from a buddy when I needed to drop mine.

Easy to drop. Here's a basic idea. I think I covered most stuff.

Remove:

1x per side: 19mm ball joint nuts from spindles, pop balljoints out of spindles
1x per side: 18mm sway bar link nuts from bar
drivers side: remove headlight leveling mechanism arm from control arm
4x on subframe: 13mm bolts that hold the steering rack to subframe rectangular shape
2x on subframe: 10mm exhaust bracket bolts
Remove the dogbone mount entirely
4x subframe to body bolts: 21mm, at this time you want either a jack or a friend to support the subframe. I generally get on a creeper and lay on my back and slide out with it on my chest.

Main issue: On the drivers side sway bar to subframe bracket there is a 13mm nut that bolts a power steering line to the bracket. Save yourself the headache ahead of time and remove the bracket from the subframe by unbolting the 13mm bolt and freeing it. Later when the frame is off remove the 13mm nut that holds the PS clamp and throw it far away.

I reinstall the reverse- get the ball joints reconnected first while the frame is now hanging use a jack to get it high enough and get the PS rack reconnected. from there you're pretty much done. Getting the PS rack reconnected is sometimes the most difficult part.

You don't need to support the motor while dropping it. I find it's MUCH easier to just drop it and get it out of the way as opposed to trying to snake things in and out of that area.

Advice- buy PB blaster. Soak those turbo bolts in it a couple of times before trying to remove. They will snap the studs.

goodluck- it's not hard, just dive in.


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## toy4two2 (Feb 6, 2012)

If I have my exhaust guy cut out the OEM downpipe at the point in the picture, can it be removed without dropping the subframe? Is there enough space to even get a wrench around the turbo bolts after making that cut? 

:sly:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

toy4two2 said:


> If I have my exhaust guy cut out the OEM downpipe at the point in the picture, can it be removed without dropping the subframe? Is there enough space to even get a wrench around the turbo bolts after making that cut?
> 
> :sly:


Yeah, it can be done. But it's much easier to go ahead and drop the subframe like everyone in this thread has said. It's really not the big of a deal and I don't understand why people act like it's more complicated than it is. The instructions above are good, but if you unbolt the steering rack, you don't have to unbolt the ball joints/swaybar, just let the subframe "hang" by the control arms to give you enough room to get the DP in and out.


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## toy4two2 (Feb 6, 2012)

20v master said:


> Yeah, it can be done. But it's much easier to go ahead and drop the subframe like everyone in this thread has said. It's really not the big of a deal and I don't understand why people act like it's more complicated than it is. The instructions above are good, but if you unbolt the steering rack, you don't have to unbolt the ball joints/swaybar, just let the subframe "hang" by the control arms to give you enough room to get the DP in and out.


OK I will drop the sub frame and do it myself. I only have Jack stands, so will that be enough? Will there then be enough room to get a wrench in there? Think the studs will snap (I have no blow torch) just PB Blaster.


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