# High speed shake on acceleration



## G0to60 (Jun 23, 2003)

I've read through a few older threads about various vibrations and shaking at speed but couldn't really find anything similar to my problem.

Recently I had a vibration above 55mph and that was fixed after I just got new tires so that means one of the old tires were out of balance. Now another problem that was probably hidden by that has emerged. If I'm cruising at 55mph or faster it drives nice and smooth but if I try to accelerate, even slightly, there will be some vibration. If I accelerate harder the vibratation gets more violent. This doesn't happen (or it's too slight to feel) at lower speeds.

From what I've read it could be the main drive shaft out of balance or possibly one or more of the half shafts. Is there a way to check these?

I also thought that maybe it could be a motor or transmission mount since the problem only comes around under heavy load conditions (high gears pulls, uphill acceleration, etc). If a mount were bad could it cause the driveshaft to be miss aligned and cause a vibration?

Any help would be great even if it was pointing out a thread that I missed that points me in the right direction. Thanks a bunch. 

Also, this is on a 2.7T with a Tip.


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## allroad (Jun 27, 2010)

Definitely sounds like a driveshaft to me. Pop your head underneath it and look for missing boots, greasy stains on boots, and suchlike.


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## diive4sho (Feb 7, 2004)

It's your axles. Get new ones from Marty at raxles. Check YouTube, I had a video of my car doing the same thing, think I called it "allroad shakes on acceleration". Axles fixed it.


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## Michael T Borelli (Dec 29, 2000)

I just watched the video and that is exactly what my allroad does. It stopped doing it for about one week after I installed a new pass axle. Weeek later back to the same ****. The axle boot of the new axle ripped clean off the outer CV. I think I have bad motor and trans mounts that is allowing the the drive train to shift causing the destruction of the new axle. What do you think?????


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## diive4sho (Feb 7, 2004)

Was the axle a reman or new? It seems that allroads are picky when it comes to axle choice. Some re-manufactured axles use ground down balls and low quality grease leading to premature failure. The axles that did it to my car were ones I got from raxles but they had been on there for years and took a beating. Sent then to Marty on a hunch and even he was questioning that axles could cause such a problem. When I got them back the problem went away and hasn't been back since. 
I can say I am running the 034 motorsports trans mounts but I honestly don't believe that has much to do with it. 
Lowering would have more negative result than clapped out trans mounts. Are you lowered? 
My car is running a setup I made (koni sport shocks and a totally different bag and mount setup than stock) and I believe I am about 6" lower than stock. That may have accelerated my axle wear. :laugh:


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## G0to60 (Jun 23, 2003)

I'm leaning more towards the axles being the issue now. The problem has gotten a little worse in the last few weeks and I don't think the mounts are the problem. Couple questions though:

Did you only replace the front CV axles or all four?
How much per side were the Raxles?


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## diive4sho (Feb 7, 2004)

Only the fronts. The rears don't have to turn so they see much less stress. They also have thicker boots and they will last a lot longer. 
I can't remember what I paid for the raxles but if you call there speak with Marty or shoot him an email. Are you auto or manual? If you're auto he might have the axles in stock. Manual ar axles are hard to come by so you send them to him and he will rebuild and send back the day he gets them. 2 day turnaround.


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## bengone1 (Jun 17, 2003)

I just ordered two front CV axles from Marty at RAXLES $200 each plus core. $48 shipping both ways. He had them in stock and the extra shipping is for the core return. Cool guy. I'll post up some pics when they get it.


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## Michael T Borelli (Dec 29, 2000)

My allroad is lowered on KW v2. It shakes the same when I had the factory air ride. The axles were new. They did not offer reman. I have a brand new axle sitting in my garage but this weather blows and I am not laying on my back outside to do it.


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## bengone1 (Jun 17, 2003)

Swapped out axles and shake is gone. Passenger side inner had about as much "play" at the inner joint as the new shaft. Driver's side was shot. Very noticeable by holding shaft and twisting joint. It also spit grease onto the shield but the boots were still intact. Both outer joints were good, boots were cracked but holding.

I liked the quality of the Raxles. Marty was pleasant to deal with. He even sent the 17mm 1/2 drive allen socket for the outer joint and the 8mm 12pt for the inner joint. 


FYI tools require: 1/2" torque wrench, 1/2" breaker bar (a cheater bar helps with +90*), 8mm 12pt, 17mm allen socket, lug wrench, jack, jack stands, 3/8" x 6" extensions x2, 3/8" ratchet, 6mm allen socket. 

1-Raise car to level 4 and place the car in jack mode. 
2-Break 17mm Allen axle bolt(s) loose.
3-Loosen wheel bolts.
4-Jack both sides and support on stands. Even if only doing one side.
5-Remove wheel(s) from side you are replacing. 
6-Remove 3x 6mm allen bolts and driveshaft shields on each side.
7-remove 6x 8mm 12 point bolts from inner CV. Reinstall two lug bolts and turn axle to access them from the 7-8 o' clock position one at a time.
8-unlock ignition and turn wheel opposite of side you are working on. Right side turn wheel FULL lock left. Have bungee cord or assistant hold it. May not be necessary I did mine at level 2. Level 4 should give more room.
9-Lift inner joint up while flexing outer joint to slide it out.
10-slide new axle in place holding inner joint up and aft while flexing outer joint into place. Steering must be at FULL lock.
11-Reinstall inner bolts to shield and axle.
12-Mount wheel and lower.
13-Torque axle bolt to 140lbs + 90* turn.


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## diive4sho (Feb 7, 2004)

Glad to hear everything turned out well for you.


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