# The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide



## DetailingDude (Jan 8, 2003)

To me ‘Claying’ is one of the most important steps in the car care process. The Clay will do a deep cleaning of the paint with its ability to safely remove Overspray, Rail Dust, Light Tree Sap Residue, Bug Splatter, Industrial Fallout and General Road Grime. Not only do they remove the surface contaminants but the added benefit is that your wax will form a much longer lasting bond with your paint after the surface has been cleaned with a clay bar.
But what is a clay bar? It is similar in appearance to PlayDough. In fact, there are nearly as many colors of clay bars as there are of PlayDough. However, it's texture is close to Silly Putty. But it is NOT a toy! Clay Bars are serious business.
Considering the thinness of today's paints Professional Detailers and Body Shops often use clay bars in place of a rotary buffer to remove surface contaminants. Although it might be a minute stretch of the truth to say that clay bars don't contain abrasives they are generally considered to be safe on all painted surfaces, chrome, wheels and windows.
Clay bars were originally were used in the early 1900's to remove overspray from automotive finishes during a rather crude period of car care in the automotive industry. Clay bars, back then, were rather unrefined when compared to today's synthetic clay bars. 
This unique "clay-like" surface cleaning material is specifically formulated to remove stubborn contaminants from the paint finish of automobiles that cannot be removed using regular cleaning methods and are easy to use, and most clay bars are safe for all paint finishes, including clear coats [see guide below]. It works best with a surface lubrication that is included with most retail packs. 
One 7oz clay bar will last an average of 25 cars.


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## DetailingDude (Jan 8, 2003)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (DetailingDude)*

Before beginning make sure you have the following:
(Clay Bar and Lube) A Clay Bar System [see guide below]
(Towel) 100% Cotton Hand Size Towel or a MicroFiber Towel (90,000 threads per square inch)
(Wrapper) Cellophane Cigarette Wrapper
In a well-lit, cool and dry area:
*Step 1:* Check for Surface Contaminants.
Technique: With two fingers inside the Wrapper gently glide it across the Surface. This will magnify any amount of Surface Contamination.
_Tech Tip_: Do not press down hard as you may free up some of the Surface Contaminants and scratch the Surface.
*Step 2:* Break off a 2 oz. portion of the Clay Bar.
Technique: Break off a 2oz piece of the Clay and roll it into a ball (store the remainder of the Clay in the container). 
_Tech Tip_: If the Clay Bar is ever dropped onto the floor discard IMMEDIATELY.
*Step 3:* Saturate the Surface with the Lube.
Technique: Mist the Lube onto the Surface.
*Step 4:* Rub the Clay Bar onto the Surface.
Technique: Firmly press the ball of the Clay Bar onto the Surface to mold it to the contour of the Surface. Rub the Clay Bar on the Surface in a side-to-side motion with the Contour of the Panel. 
_Tech Tip_: If the Surface begins to show any signs of drying wet again with the Lube.
*Step 5:* Wipe the Surface with the Towel.
Technique: Do not press hard onto the Surface with the Towel as you may induce some light surface scratches.
_Tech Tip_ As you move from panel to panel 'fold' the clay to a new section.
*Step 6:* Inspect the Surface.
Technique: With the Wrapper inspect the Surface as in Step 1 
_Tech Tip_: If the Surface still has some roughness to it repeat Steps 2 through 5.


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## DetailingDude (Jan 8, 2003)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (DetailingDude)*

*The Blue Clay Bar:* 
I recently tested 3M's and ClayMagic's clay bar and have the same one that is imported from Japan (even has the same exact patent numbers on them, LOL). However, there is a tremdous price variation between the two with 3M's being around $5.00 less. I have found the 3M one for around $18. My Rating: Very Good.
*The Yellow Clay Bar:*
I recently tested Mother's, Zaino's and Zymol's clay bar and they appear to have the same exact one (although there is no patent number, LOL). Mother's clay bar is available for is available for around $18 as well but I was given my Zaino clay bar so I am not sure of the price. Zymol's clay bar is $80.80!! My Rating: Very Good
*The White Clay Bar:*
I tested Meguiar's clay bar a years ago and was not at all impressed. Meguiar's clay bar retails for $10. My Rating: Good
*The Grey Clay Bar:*
I recently tested Lusso's clay bar and the quality appears to be right in line with the 3M, ClayMagic, Mother's and Zaino. Lusso's clay bar retails for $14. My Rating: Very Good
*The Red Clay Bar:*
I have not recently tested AutoMagic's red clay bar. It contains a mild abrasive. I would recommend that this bar only be used in a professional bodyshop atmosphere. I will not give this product a rating.


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## LIQUIX (Feb 9, 2001)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (DetailingDude)*

Great write up. Thanks for taking the time to write this up.


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## j.Connor (Mar 7, 2002)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (LIQUIX)*

question for the stupid person over here: how big is a 2 oz. piece?


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## Unique Bora (Jul 19, 2002)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (LIQUIX)*

Thanks for the write up, but you just scared me more than I normally am when I clay my car! I can never find individual bars so I usually buy the box sets if I loose or mess up the bar....but if I DO drop it on the ground, I usually just wipe the little sand and crap off....at 20 bux a set I can afford to throw out clay bars like its my job!


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## DetailingDude (Jan 8, 2003)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (j.Connor)*

Well, most of the clay bars I reviewed came in a 7oz bar. So cut it into quarters (approx).


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## DetailingDude (Jan 8, 2003)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (Unique Bora)*

quote:[HR][/HR]Thanks for the write up, but you just scared me more than I normally am when I clay my car! I can never find individual bars so I usually buy the box sets if I loose or mess up the bar....but if I DO drop it on the ground, I usually just wipe the little sand and crap off....at 20 bux a set I can afford to throw out clay bars like its my job!







[HR][/HR]​Which is why I say to cut it into a 2oz portion.


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## ketch (Jun 23, 2001)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (DetailingDude)*

Hey, tell your boss, that Ketch says hi!
If they want, will produce some more products for them.
Ketch


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## DiscoStu (May 8, 2001)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (DetailingDude)*

I have always been afraid to use a clay bar. Does it really work that much better than a) Mother's 3 part system or b) 3M IHG and Wax?
After Claybarring (?) do you follow with a glaze and wax, or just a wax?
The above guide is great. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## [email protected] (Mar 26, 2001)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (DiscoStu)*

mothers and meguiars are the only two i have seen. the mothers is far far far far better than meguairs. the meg. one was really hard, the mothers is almost exactly like silly putty. i clay alot, and i love it.
you can glaze or wax, jsut dont let the detail (lube) dry on the cars surface. i usually 
wash
clay
polish (glaze)
paste wax
paste wax again
8 hours later my black audi looks a berry nice-a


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## natureboy (Nov 13, 2002)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (DetailingDude)*

Ok, 
I am about to overcome my chicken little fears of clay bars. Would it be wrong to only clar the parts that feel rough? Or should I treat the entire paint surface so things are even?
Thanks,
NB


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## DetailingDude (Jan 8, 2003)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (DiscoStu)*

*I have always been afraid to use a clay bar.* 
Well, glad that fear has passed!
*Does it really work that much better than a) Mother's 3 part system or b) 3M IHG and Wax?*
What the clay bar does is clean the surface of contaminants so that the other products can work their best. You still use those other parts but claying sets the other products up for success.
*After Claybarring (?) do you follow with a glaze and wax, or just a wax?*
Well, after you clay the car you want to DeWax the surface and check for any slight imperfections. Treat those imperfections with the associated product and then start waxing.


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## DetailingDude (Jan 8, 2003)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (natureboy)*

*I am about to overcome my chicken little fears of clay bars.*
Well, now I guess there's nothing to fear but fear itself! LOL. Seriously though, glad to help.
*Would it be wrong to only clar the parts that feel rough? Or should I treat the entire paint surface so things are even?*
Well, I would be surprised if you only feel a rough spot or two unless your car has been repainted and you have overspray in a few areas. You will find it to be very easy and incredibly rewarding to do the entire car. Do your windows, headlights, taillights,....anything that is solid.


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## natureboy (Nov 13, 2002)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (DetailingDude)*

I haven't gotten away with saying this since high school but,
Thanks DUDE!!!
The car had two scratches painted on the passenger side. Can you guess which side has the bumps?
The bumps are all along the edge. From the edge next to the trunk lid, the tops of the doors , and to the top of the front fender. This was probably right where the tape , or whatever they used, stopped.
Again,
Thanks DUDE
Rodney


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## DetailingDude (Jan 8, 2003)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (natureboy)*

Use the cigarette wrapper as described to find any sort of surface contaminant.


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## ronsig (Nov 9, 2002)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (DetailingDude)*

Can one clay when it is quite cold in a garage in the winter? Or should the surface be warm?
Thanks from cold Waterloo, Ontario~


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## [email protected] (Mar 26, 2001)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (ronsig)*

you can, but i would warm up the clay a little first. i clayed a bmw the other day when it was about 50 outside. i left the bar in the sun and that helped alot. if your garage is 50 or warmer it should be fine. maybe spread out the clay, and hit it with a hair dryer for a moment or two.


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## DetailingDude (Jan 8, 2003)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (ronsig)*

quote:[HR][/HR]Can one clay when it is quite cold in a garage in the winter? Or should the surface be warm?
Thanks from cold Waterloo, Ontario~







[HR][/HR]​I've clayed in 35 degree weather in Chicago last winter. My fingers froze but still had no problems. What sucked is that as I was claying the surface lube was kicking up onto my fingers making them even colder..... not a moment I wish to revist any time soon in my life!


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## DetailingDude (Jan 8, 2003)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide ([email protected])*

*mothers and meguiars are the only two i have seen. the mothers is far far far far better than meguairs. the meg. one was really hard, the mothers is almost exactly like silly putty. i clay alot, and i love it.*
Mothers clay bar is certainly on of the best. I am going to be trying out the ClayMagic claying machine. Let you know how that goes.


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## ea337guy (Jan 15, 2003)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (ketch)*

quote:[HR][/HR]Hey, tell your boss, that Ketch says hi!
If they want, will produce some more products for them.
Ketch[HR][/HR]​Does AutoInt make Lusso products?


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## StattlichPassat (Feb 12, 2001)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (DetailingDude)*

Thanks for the great writeup! I just got a new black Passat 3 weeks ago- is it worth claying yet?


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## tslugmo (Jul 11, 2002)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (DetailingDude)*

Thought this belonged here. I didn't produce this, but I'm hosting it:
Hi-Res Claybar vid (10MB) 
Low-Res Claybar vid(1MB) 
Claybarring is very easy, and is one of the most effective tools in a detailer's arsenal. A complete detail isn't, without claybarring.
There's nothing to be afraid of, it's cheap, very easy to use, hard to screw up, and gives the most dramatic results of any non-powered detailing implement.
StattlichPassat: Definitely worth claybarring, start your car off right by removing the rail dust and metal shavings that have implanted themselves in your car. Just try 1/2 of your hood and compare the difference before and after. If you're not convinced you should claybar a new car, I'll be very surprised. It starts off with a shockingly rough texture when wiping the claybar, and becomes smoother than glass with just a few strokes. I received my car directly from the factory, manufactured in July, received 1st week of August, and the claybar made a huge difference still. If you allow the metal fragments to stay in your paint, it will eat away at it and end up rusting your finish!








-tslugmo

[Modified by tslugmo, 1:17 PM 1-16-2003]


[Modified by tslugmo, 1:29 PM 1-16-2003]


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## DetailingDude (Jan 8, 2003)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (StattlichPassat)*

Most definitly. To check the surface use a cigarette wrapper to determine the amount of surface contamination.


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## DetailingDude (Jan 8, 2003)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (tslugmo)*

That's excellent!
quote:[HR][/HR]Thought this belonged here. I didn't produce this, but I'm hosting it:
Hi-Res Claybar vid (10MB) 
Low-Res Claybar vid(1MB) 
Claybarring is very easy, and is one of the most effective tools in a detailer's arsenal. A complete detail isn't, without claybarring.
There's nothing to be afraid of, it's cheap, very easy to use, hard to screw up, and gives the most dramatic results of any non-powered detailing implement.
StattlichPassat: Definitely worth claybarring, start your car off right by removing the rail dust and metal shavings that have implanted themselves in your car. Just try 1/2 of your hood and compare the difference before and after. If you're not convinced you should claybar a new car, I'll be very surprised. It starts off with a shockingly rough texture when wiping the claybar, and becomes smoother than glass with just a few strokes. I received my car directly from the factory, manufactured in July, received 1st week of August, and the claybar made a huge difference still. If you allow the metal fragments to stay in your paint, it will eat away at it and end up rusting your finish!








-tslugmo

[Modified by tslugmo, 1:17 PM 1-16-2003]

[Modified by tslugmo, 1:29 PM 1-16-2003][HR][/HR]​


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## LIQUIX (Feb 9, 2001)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (DetailingDude)*

Nice video, explains the process perfect


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## Tornado Red Russ (Aug 4, 2002)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide ([email protected])*

quote:[HR][/HR]mothers and meguiars are the only two i have seen. the mothers is far far far far better than meguairs. the meg. one was really hard, the mothers is almost exactly like silly putty. i clay alot, and i love it.[HR][/HR]​Clay Magic is the best/easiest I have tried. The best thing about claying (other than the baby butt smoothness of your paint) is how much easier it is to polish and wax afterwards. The polish and wax is sooo easy to remove.


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## JamieK18T (Jan 14, 2002)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (Tornado Red Russ)*

does that guy have any more videos?


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## '89gli (Sep 2, 1999)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (nielksj)*

I tried this the other day and was amazed at the results. I used Mothers Clay Bar and it took off all the rough crap off my paint. The paint is now extremely smooth and made waxing it so much easier. Easy to do and well worth it. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Vento 3 (May 30, 2000)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide ('89gli)*

how do i take care of the clay after i use it? i heard that it has to keep in water?


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## Red Wolf (Nov 17, 2001)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (Vento 3)*

quote:[HR][/HR]how do i take care of the clay after i use it? i heard that it has to keep in water?[HR][/HR]​I keep mine in a ziplock bag that I mist with QD


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## mercury (Feb 5, 2003)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (Vento 3)*

will the claybar remove old wax off the surface??


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## tslugmo (Jul 11, 2002)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (nielksj)*

quote:[HR][/HR]does that guy have any more videos?[HR][/HR]​Nope. Why, what would you like?
-tslug


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## Vento 3 (May 30, 2000)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (tslugmo)*

stupid question, how long does the clay bar last?


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## JUS_GT_EYEZ (Nov 12, 2001)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (Vento 3)*

cool thanks for the info and the video... some how I always thought claying would be more difficult than that... go figure..... 
got some work to do.... wait still got some more reading to do....


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## JamieK18T (Jan 14, 2002)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (tslugmo)*

quote:[HR][/HR]does that guy have any more videos?
Nope. Why, what would you like?
-tslug[HR][/HR]​nothing in particular, i just like watching videos i guess.


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## wolfsbeard (Jan 18, 2003)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (DetailingDude)*

Um, I really want to do this because my paint is 17 years old. I can imagine the difference I will see. But I don't follow the cig wrapper thing. I have never owned a pack of cigaretes so I am unfamiliar with this item. When I first read your guide, I initially thought that you were looking at a magnified image of the paint surface.







But now I realize that you mean you are "feeling" the surface of the paint. The wrapper helps you to better "feel" the imperfections in the paint. Is this correct? Any other wrappers you can think off to use?









Thanks a lot for the info. This is a process that I have been trying to learn more about. Gonna try it this spring.


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## forrest (Jun 25, 2001)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (bearded86jetta)*

bearded - any thin cellophane wrapper will work.


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## LIQUIX (Feb 9, 2001)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (mercury)*

quote:[HR][/HR]will the claybar remove old wax off the surface??[HR][/HR]​to remove old wax you can wash your car with Dawn dish soap. This will strip all your old wax.


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## DetailingDude (Jan 8, 2003)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (LIQUIX)*

Well, if you want to see another video on clay bar useage and tips here's a link to Mothers Clay Bar Paint Saving System. You'll need QuickTime to view it.
http://mothers.com/reelworld/reels/Clay_Bar.html


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## GolfMKIV (Apr 14, 2002)

Too bad clay bars can and will take off some of your clear coat. That's why you only use it when you have to......


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## GolfMKIV (Apr 14, 2002)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (LIQUIX)*

Quote-to remove old wax you can wash your car with Dawn dish soap. This will strip all your old wax.
Dish soap doesn't moisturize paint, thus is bad for it. The clay bar removes the old wax but doesn't need to be done often. I also believe Windex removes wax but I think that is very harsh on the paint also.


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## DiscoStu (May 8, 2001)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (DetailingDude)*

Guy in the Mothers clay bar video has "golf glove tan" 


[Modified by DiscoStu, 5:48 PM 2-13-2003]


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## DetailingDude (Jan 8, 2003)

*Re: (GolfMKIV)*

quote:[HR][/HR]Too bad clay bars can and will take off some of your clear coat. That' why you only use it when you have to......[HR][/HR]​
Where have you heard that?


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## DetailingDude (Jan 8, 2003)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (DiscoStu)*

quote:[HR][/HR]Guy in the Mothers clay bar video has "golf glove tan"[HR][/HR]​That' pretty funny! :[url=http://forums.vwvortex.com/zeroloser?cmd=logout] 


[Modified by DetailingDude, 11:03 PM 2-13-2003]


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## SKIDMRK (Sep 15, 2001)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (GolfMKIV)*

quote:[HR][/HR]Quote-to remove old wax you can wash your car with Dawn dish soap. This will strip all your old wax.
Dish soap doesn't moisturize paint, thus is bad for it. The clay bar removes the old wax but doesn't need to be done often. I also believe Windex removes wax but I think that is very harsh on the paint also.[HR][/HR]​Clay bars WILL NOT remove wax from your paints surface. Many waxes on the market have silicones and petroleum products in them that bond to the surface and cannot be removed without using a product such as Griot's Paint Prep or washing a few times with dish soap. This is not meant to mositurize the paint, but strip any contaminants or coatings from the clearcoat that have been applied. Once void of contaminats, you can polish the surface and wax to achieve a deep gloss and shine. 
I compare this to trying to put a sticker on a dirty window. It just will not stick. You need a clean slate before you start with a clay, polish and wax system. 
Also, the clay bars on the market designed for the enthusiast will not remove any clearcoat as they are not abrasive. Just a medium to catch and suspend any foreign contaminants that have embedded themselves into your paints surface. Be sure to use the proper lubricant when using a clay bar on any surface. 
Trust me.........I might know a thing or two about car care...


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## DetailingDude (Jan 8, 2003)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (1a3trek)*

The only thing that I will add to this is that MOST clay bars won't. There are a few out there that are available over the counter that contain abrasives, but I did not include them in this report with the exception of the Clay Magic one because I didn't want the consumer to get the wrong one.


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## protijy (Sep 5, 2002)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (DetailingDude)*

WOW this answered about detailing my car! 
anybody have a few comments on what wax remover and what polish to use???
so the orders is
Cay Bar
Wax Remover
Polish
Wax
Wax
I have a nice random (not just spin on a circle) buffer should I use that only to take wax off after it dries or can I use that to buff off the polish also???
Thanks a TON!


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## MicroDub (Sep 10, 2002)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (DetailingDude)*

SO which did you like better, the mothers' or the Zaino?


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## GolfMKIV (Apr 14, 2002)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (nielksj)*

I have a friend that details cars and I know someone that has over 200 vehicles, many of which are old European sports cars that didn't make it to the U.S. much or were just plain rare. The second man was also in the LeMans. Both of these people have told me it can take the clear coat off. Who should I believe...







I'm sorry, but I'm still going to have to say the clay bar takes the clear coat and wax off. Heck, the box even said it takes wax off.


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## Fantomasz (Aug 15, 2001)

*Re: (GolfMKIV)*

quote:[HR][/HR]Too bad clay bars can and will take off some of your clear coat. That's why you only use it when you have to......[HR][/HR]​
that's why You must use lubricant


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## forrest (Jun 25, 2001)

*Re: (Fantomasz)*

Many moons ago, clay did remove small amounts of paint. But, today's clays are far different from that stuff. Clay today DOES NOT remove paint, clear coat or not. It simply removes protrusions and contaminants from the paint surface.
These urban legends about clay refuse to die because some web sites haven't been updated for ages, and the old information is still erroneously listed.
Used properly (proper lube, don't drop the clay on the ground, etc.), clay is stupid proof.


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## nick1.8tjetta (Feb 13, 2003)

*Re: (forrest)*

So what should i use to get my old wax off? I know dawn will strip it after a few washes, but does someone make a product to get my wax off, and should i remove my wax before or after claying???


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## tslugmo (Jul 11, 2002)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (Vento 3)*

quote:[HR][/HR]stupid question, how long does the clay bar last?







[HR][/HR]​Not a stupid question, a smart one. A claybar should only be used once. While it does not, in and of itself, scratch or damage the surface, the contaminants it picks up will if left in the clay for long enough. The usual suggestion is to cut the claybar up into halves or thirds. This is a much easier size to work with, and if you have the misfortune to drop your claybar while using it, you can toss it and still have spare sections left to use. NEVER use it after dropping it, if you value your paint.
I use about 1/2 to 2/3 of a claybar on my car, however keep in mind that I detail it very obsessively, and therefore there is less crud to take off. A car that hasn't been done in a while can use an entire bar. Just save whatever isn't used in a ziploc bag with a couple squirts of QD in there to keep it fresh.
Good luck, and don't fear the claybar. It's pretty fool-proof. I wouldn't recommend all detailing tools to just anybody, but this one's pretty safe, and incredibly effective. The best safe:effective ratio of any product, save wax, perhaps.
-tslug


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## forrest (Jun 25, 2001)

*Re: (nick1.8tjetta)*

nick1.8tjetta - clay does remove wax and polish, so there's really no reason to do an additional step.
If you want to, though, I'd suggest using something like 3M's trim adhesive and wax remover, or mineral spirits, or PrepSol. You can find all of them at an automotive paint supply store.


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## G3T3I7 (Apr 7, 2002)

*Re: (forrest)*

quote:[HR][/HR]nick1.8tjetta - clay does remove wax and polish, so there's really no reason to do an additional step.
[HR][/HR]​Arrgh !!
What is the right answer ?? I thought that claybars WILL take off old wax







It seems like taking this extra step of using dish soap or one of the other noted options might start to eat into your paint...
While I'm at it, another question in regards to doing a once in a while 'clay-ing': After I wash, I bring the car into the garage and proceed to use the Mothers bar..After I'm done, do I need to rinse the car with some water and dry before polish/wax ? Or can I just start polishing/waxing right after I use the clay ? Thanks.
BTW, good topic http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## B95P (Dec 24, 2001)

*Re: (G3T3I7)*

FWIW forrest is a MOTHERS rep















I would trust in the answer that clay would remove wax. Since it has the ability to remove bug guts, rail dust, and other fine surface debris.


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## Jonny123 (Feb 19, 2002)

*Re: (B95P)*








....what a thread http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Glad I drifted over to this forum








Anyways, I'm ready to tackle the clay bar again in the spring, last time I tried, I kept getting swirl marks after removing the lube. But I think this was due to the fact I was doing it in the sun and it was drying on the paint itself.
Just a quick question...how often should a car be claybarred? 2 times a year...1 time.... much more? I'm guessing alot probably has to do with where you live...seeing as how my car probably encounters much more dirt, grit, etc. in the cold snowy winters of pa than someone in florida.. correct?


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## DZCad90 (Nov 24, 2000)

*Re: (G3T3I7)*

quote:[HR][/HR]nick1.8tjetta - clay does remove wax and polish, so there's really no reason to do an additional step.
Arrgh !!
What is the right answer ?? I thought that claybars WILL take off old wax







It seems like taking this extra step of using dish soap or one of the other noted options might start to eat into your paint...
While I'm at it, another question in regards to doing a once in a while 'clay-ing': After I wash, I bring the car into the garage and proceed to use the Mothers bar..After I'm done, do I need to rinse the car with some water and dry before polish/wax ? Or can I just start polishing/waxing right after I use the clay ? Thanks.
BTW, good topic http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif [HR][/HR]​A friend of mine introduced me to the clay bar this weekend. We did the hood on his Jetta and it was SO smooth when it was clayed and waxed.
When we clayed his hood, it felt like it removed all the wax. Once it was re waxed though you couldn't set a terry towel on the hood, it would slide right off!


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## forrest (Jun 25, 2001)

*Re: (Jonny123)*

Jonny - generally speaking 2 times a year is about right, unless you run into some circumstance (parking under a tree - sap, or following a striper down the highway) that dictates the need for claying to correct a problem.


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## Yellow Snow (Mar 20, 2003)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (DetailingDude)*

ok got a quick question after you spray the lube on do you rub the clay hard on the paint or just lighty run the clay over the paint surface


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## Jonny123 (Feb 19, 2002)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (Veedub4me)*

quote:[HR][/HR]ok got a quick question after you spray the lube on do you rub the clay hard on the paint or just lighty run the clay over the paint surface








[HR][/HR]​Definately not hard....you don't need alot of pressure on it I believe. Start out with fairly light pressure, just brushing the claybar over the lubricant, wipe it off as directed and check out the paint. If you aren't convinced...try it with a bit more pressure. You most surely don't need to press hard though, the claybar will pick up the debris upon a fairly light contact i belive. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Kenji (Jul 13, 2001)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (Veedub4me)*

quote:[HR][/HR]after you spray the lube on do you rub the clay hard on the paint or just lighty run the clay over the paint surface[HR][/HR]​Rub lightly, and be sure to use plenty of lubricant or the clay will stick to the paint.


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## Yellow Snow (Mar 20, 2003)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (Kenji)*

Thanks for the help guys. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## wetnrg (Oct 19, 2000)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (JUS_GT_EYEZ)*

there is nothing scary at all about useing clay.. any one can do it! very simple. even easier then playing with silly putty! I'd rather clay my car then rub polish off.


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## DZCad90 (Nov 24, 2000)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (wetnrg)*

Okay. I went and got the Mother's Clay kit at lunch. $11.95 at the local Farm & Fleet. Included their "Showtime" quick detailer for lubricant, and a small bottle of liquid wax. A friend had just turned me on to using the clay bar last weekend, and he had great results. After reading this and seeing his results I figured I'd give it a shot myself.
When I got home I wanted to try it out right away. I washed the car and dried with an Absorber. I then broke out the clay. You get a bar about the size of but twice as thick as a hotel facial bar. It's gold in color. I decided to do the hood tonight just for comparison sake. Besides, it was cold and getting dark.
I was liberal with the quick detailer, possibly too liberal. I found that you really don't need that much to get the job done by the time I finished the hood. It literally took about 5 minutes to do the hood. After I finished claying the hood, I wiped the residue away with a terrry towel. When all the residue was wiped up the paint felt so smooth, it was like wet ice. I really thought the paint was wet, but it wasn't. I followed it off with a coat of Meguiars Cleaner Wax and a coat of the included Mothers wax. I've never felt the surface of my car this smooth before. 
I'm definately a believer. I only wish it were going to be nicer out this weekend so I could do the rest of the car!
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


[Modified by DZCad90, 7:36 PM 3-25-2003]


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## protijy337 (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (DZCad90)*

installed my THULE rack this weekend and clayed the roof and waxed to prep http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
mothers http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## pgde (Oct 21, 2002)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (Red Wolf)*

quote:[HR][/HR]how do i take care of the clay after i use it? i heard that it has to keep in water?
I keep mine in a ziplock bag that I mist with QD[HR][/HR]​QD? What is that?


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## Zealot (Mar 9, 2003)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (pgde)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pgde* »_
QD? What is that?

ditto


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## B95P (Dec 24, 2001)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (pgde)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pgde* »_<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>how do i take care of the clay after i use it? i heard that it has to keep in water?
I keep mine in a ziplock bag that I mist with QD<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
QD? What is that?

QD = Quick Detailer


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## 4DR Turbo (Nov 20, 2001)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (JUS_GT_EYEZ)*

3M cleaner clay(blue) Rocks!! does a fantastic job on my Reflex Silver dub http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif purchased from CMAX store, believe it was around $50 or so, one bar, its big, my cousin and i cut it in half, then i took my half, and cut it in 3 just to give you an idea


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## RechtsFahren (Dec 8, 2000)

*Re: (Fantomasz)*

On lubricant, what would be wrong with using water?
I was using the QD last night, didn't finish the car, this morning I hosed off the pollen one section at a time and then used the remaining water as lube. I detected no difference in function or results, and I figure the QD must be mostly water anyway...
Clay works really, really well. So much better and easier than using cleaner.


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## 4DR Turbo (Nov 20, 2001)

*Re: (RechtsFahren)*

ya i supose your right? after i wash with dawn, i just rinse the car, then start claying, i ran out of #34 final inspection last week, i just used water and soap (gold class) mixed in the bottle, it worked ok, but i feel better using a QD though http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## GotDubbed (Jul 25, 2002)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (DetailingDude)*


_Quote »_Step 3: Saturate the Surface with the Lube.
Technique: Mist the Lube onto the Surface.

Quick question.. What should I be using as a lube?
Quick question #2... On an original 17 year old paint job, would it be crazy to think of clay barring a large majority of the car?


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## Colovion (Feb 19, 2003)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (GotDubbed)*

#1 - look at the above posts, wash your car down and use the leftover water as lube - but also throw in some quick detailer as well. Some people dry it down and then clay it, others leave some water on it after the wash.
#2 - Clay away! It's better to get all the contaminants off the vast majority of the car rather than only off parts that you think are contaminated.


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## GotDubbed (Jul 25, 2002)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (Colovion)*

Great, thanks for the reply.
Last question..
Is there a certain amount of time I have to wait after using the clay bar before I wax?


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## Colovion (Feb 19, 2003)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (GotDubbed)*

nope - wax right away - but I'd reccomend that you polish it first


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## marv3028 (Aug 1, 2002)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (DetailingDude)*

I'm just getting all of my questions answered today!!
And without even asking them







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## JLJetta (Nov 24, 2001)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (DetailingDude)*

Anyone know who sells the Mother's bar by itself? The "kit" is too much $$$ just for the bar!


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## Clean97GTi (Nov 28, 2001)

*Re: (B95P)*


_Quote, originally posted by *B95P* »_I would trust in the answer that clay would remove wax. Since it has the ability to remove bug guts, rail dust, and other fine surface debris.

From the Mothers website Detailing FAQ
"Remember to wash your car before using a clay bar, and to always wax afterwards (clay bars will remove wax from your car's finish)."
I've become a firm believer in the clay bar system. I found that stripping the wax made the clay bar process a bit more effective. The next thing I'd advise you all to pick up is a random orbit buffer to apply waxes and polishes with. Best investment in detailing ever.


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## spoonie (Dec 12, 2001)

*Re: (Clean97GTi)*

sorry that i skipped page 2 and 3 - but i'm getting my car back from the bodyshop next week, change of colour and brand new paint.
should i be claybarring this and waxing/polishing? i've NEVER had a new car, or a car with new paint before - and i've never had a car worthy of claybarring, imho.
opinions welcome.
~spoonie


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## G3T3I7 (Apr 7, 2002)

*Re: (spoonie)*

I'm gonna do my annual clay tonight or Tom. morning...I just want to know one thing, after I clay should I rinse the car, dry it, and then wax ? Or can i begin waxing as soon as I'm done using the clay bar ?
Thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Jonny123 (Feb 19, 2002)

*Re: (G3T3I7)*

Just clayed today and I couldn't be happier with the results!! Actually, it was a full day of detailing for me:
Wash
Meguiar's Clay bar
3m Swirl mark remover
Meguiars wax

_Quote, originally posted by *G3T3I7* »_I'm gonna do my annual clay tonight or Tom. morning...I just want to know one thing, after I clay should I rinse the car, dry it, and then wax ? Or can i begin waxing as soon as I'm done using the clay bar ?
Thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

After I was done claying, I didn't rinse or anything...you really shouldn't have anything left after claying other than some verry well treated paint ready for a waxing









_Quote »_ The next thing I'd advise you all to pick up is a random orbit buffer to apply waxes and polishes with. Best investment in detailing ever.

I couldn't agree more...just used my basic $40 craftsman orbital buffer for the 3m swirl mark remover and wax applications today...made the job 100x easier!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








Many thanks to the detailing forum..whoi helped me get my car lookin so purdy.


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## shrinermonkey (Sep 6, 2000)

*Re: (Jonny123)*

I just washed and clayed my car today too. I used dawn dish detergent and the Mother's clay bar system.
All I can say is WOW!








I can't believe how smooth and shiny my paint is now even without any wax on it. The clay bar worked great at getting all of the little tar, bug, and tree sap spots off. I will be applying Klasse AIO and SG tommorrow after I wash off the claying/detail spray residue.
I am soo glad I decided to clay, I couldn't be happier with the results.


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## G3T3I7 (Apr 7, 2002)

*Re: (Jonny123)*

"After I was done claying, I didn't rinse or anything...you really shouldn't have anything left after claying other than some verry well treated paint ready for a waxing"

"..after I wash off the claying/detail spray residue."
Now what is the right thing to do here








edit: Spelling errors


_Modified by G3T3I7 at 1:10 AM 5-22-2003_


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## 55bug (Nov 20, 2000)

Whether you have residue or not depends on the clay you use, and probably the lube as well. I use Pinnacle Poly Clay with carwash soap as the lube, and do not get any residue (but I rinse anyway)


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## Mex gti (Sep 18, 2001)

*Re: (55bug)*

This thread rocks !!!







.
A big thanks, for everyone who spent their time gathering this whole info







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## G3T3I7 (Apr 7, 2002)

*Re: (55bug)*

Well, about the residue thing, I use the Mother's bar with the detailer. After I do the whole car, it seems smooth, and I don't visually see any leftover residue. I mean I just am trying to figure out if it's better to rinse it down anyway.
Thanks.


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## shrinermonkey (Sep 6, 2000)

*Re: (G3T3I7)*

Well I really didn't see any residue after I used the Mother's clay bar, but I didn't wax it right away and have driven on the highway so I will need to wash again anyway. I guess if I waxed right away I wouldn't have washed again, but the Autopia site recommends that you do. I guess I don't see the point if you are using a cleaner wax or sealant like Klasse AIO like I am going to be using because it should remove any residues when you apply it.


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## ReflexGTI1.8T (Jan 18, 2002)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (j.Connor)*

nice thank you for this b/c i hated the clay bar...i tried meguires and it sucked i was basically stuff peeling pecies of it off b/c of their simple "1-2-3" instructions were terrible.


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## jettaivglxvr6 (Dec 26, 2001)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (ReflexGTI1.8T)*

Heck yeah, I love to use clay bars. When I talk to peopoe about it though they think I am kidding.


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## Madbora (May 25, 2003)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (DetailingDude)*

Nice write up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## rmbalisa (Jan 17, 2002)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (Madbora)*

what polish do you all use?


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## ud1278 (May 7, 2003)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (rmbalisa)*

Bump 'cause more people should know about this!!! Just bought a Zaino kit yesterday. I'm overanxious to get it so I can use it!!!!!


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## ud1278 (May 7, 2003)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (ud1278)*

bumpin' this because people are asking the same questions.


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## protijy337 (Mar 12, 2003)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (ud1278)*

clay http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## rromasko (Aug 8, 2002)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (DetailingDude)*

Threads like this are the reason for having a forum!

good stuff. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Oltorf (Sep 21, 2001)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (JUS_GT_EYEZ)*

awesome write up


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## RogueTDI (Dec 12, 2002)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (Oltorf)*

Just wanted to bump up this important topic.
I just clay barred my car for the first time in the 5 years I have owned it. WOW! What a difference! I used Mothers, and would recommend the product. The paint is so clean now. Smooth! Free of debris and roughness! And most important, all those little white specs (on my black paint) that looked so horrible are gone!! This is the next best thing to a good coat of wax when it comes to caring for your paint. Great product! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I suggest everyone try it, especially for daily drivers.

PS: I was searching through old posts. If it wasnt cleared up, I wanted to say that clay bars ARE NOT for removing oxidation. They DO NOT chip or "sand" the paint. They remove stubborn particulate debris that wont come off with simple washing or polishing. That's it. Oh, while it might remove wax, you should remove the wax separately, and not rely on the clay to do it. If anything, wax will lubricate the clay and hinder proper cleaning.



_Modified by RogueTDI at 5:40 PM 8-5-2003_


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## jetta4life04 (Jul 11, 2003)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (RogueTDI)*

i love clay


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## GTbuzz (Dec 23, 2002)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (jetta4life04)*

what kind of polish should one use? 
would this work out?:
dawn
dawn
clay
polish << don't know what product to buy
meguiars gold paste wax


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## Jesstzn (Apr 21, 2003)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (GTbuzz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GTbuzz* »_what kind of polish should one use? 
would this work out?:
dawn
dawn
clay
polish << don't know what product to buy
meguiars gold paste wax

polish << don't know what product to buy.. I used Menzerna Final polish with great results on a black car And I have seen the results of Einzsett Metal Polish on a green car .. I would go with the Einzsett .. less money and easier to get. 
Contact Nick at http://www.detailerparadise.com


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## Tomandante (Jan 30, 2004)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (Jesstzn)*

ttt


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## Blindsider (Apr 25, 2002)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (hectordc9)*

Is this the normal 3M clay bar that was tested? Just looks strange in a container when every other one I saw was just looked like a bar of soap.
http://www.sherwin-automotive....at=62
Thanks for the help
edit - Heres a link to Clay Magic's site and products.
http://www.clay-magic.com/claymagic_products.asp


_Modified by Blindsider at 1:25 AM 3-28-2004_


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## Jett'in (Aug 20, 2001)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (Blindsider)*

IS the claybar for one-time-use only?
If not, how do you clean it/store it?


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## r32argent (Jun 5, 2003)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (Jett'in)*

You can split the claybar into three pieces, use and discard one piece per session. If you 're-use' a piece you risk rubbing the dirt already in the clay into your paint, IMO.
For storage, I put it in a ziplock bag with a few squirts of quick detailer.


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## VDubPyro (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (r32argent)*

finally, now i know how to get that crud of my paint!!! claybar here i come


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## v555ryan (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (forrest)*


_Quote, originally posted by *forrest* »_bearded - any thin cellophane wrapper will work. 

I had always heard to use a plastic sandwich bag to feel for contaminants. I'd imagine the cheap kind without a ziploc thing work just as well, if not better, than the cigarette wrapper. Inexpensive, thin, and big enough for your whole hand.


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## Dub-Nub (Sep 27, 2005)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (DetailingDude)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DetailingDude* »_ Not only do they remove the surface contaminants but the added benefit is that your wax will form a much longer lasting bond with your paint after the surface has been cleaned with a clay bar.


Please be advised that you need to wax the car right after the clay bar. The clay bar will remove all the wax from ur car and be exposed the the sun.


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## pest (Jun 26, 2002)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (DetailingDude)*

good write up . i actually do repetitive passes and wipe dry and then etst rub the section with the back of my hand . If i feel no resisitance i then move on or then repeat with amother wetting and repestative passes until i feel no grit and just shine . I then wipe totally dru and tehn move onto another section . My clay bar session usually lasts up to or more than an hour and a pepsi . http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Duby T (Feb 28, 2004)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (DetailingDude)*

Has anyone used the Griots claybar? is it good?


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## Jesse (Jun 11, 1999)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (Duby T)*

does anyone have experience with BLACKFIRE PolyClay II or pinnacle Ultra PolyClay?
http://www.properautocare.com/blpoiiclba.html
http://www.properautocare.com/piulpo.html


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## SOON2B18T (Oct 4, 2002)

*Re: The Ultimate Clay Bar Guide (Jesse)*

This is one awesome thread. I was so lost on detailing now i know basically what to do.
Wash with Dish Detergent
Clay the whole car
Use a Polish like COLOR X or equiv
Wax with Meguirs NXT or equiv
*CANT WAIT TO Do this soon to my car ( the whole process ) hasnt been done ever*


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## Brass Balls (Aug 6, 2004)

Great info! The only thing I'd add is that when claying a vehicle that has a lot of surface contamination, I believe it is better to wash the after claying residue off with water and car wash soap rather than wiping it off with a towel.


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## GoStumpy (Jul 14, 2000)

*Re: (Brass Balls)*

I also found that claybarring right after washing, with a wash mitt in one hand and claybar in the other, great way to lube and clay, and rinse everything off after!
Downside is the claybar usually won't last more than 1 car


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