# DIY: Installing speakers in a mk4 golf/jetta



## pwnt by pat (Oct 21, 2005)

There isn't one in the facts and i thought I'd spend my three spare hours this week doing something constructive. It also clears some space out of my room







.
Things you'll need:
router with 1/4" straight and flush bits and circle-jig
power-drill with screw head and 1/8th and 3/8th inch drill bits
dremel with cutout bits
non-hardening modeling clay
coarse thread 1 5/8" drywall screws
2" long 6-32 threaded screws with nuts - these are at home depot and have a flat head
small washers
*maybe* wood glue
The woofers in question, oem vs aftermarket:
















*Step One*
Remove your door pannel. I'm not going to go into detail as I'm sure it's in the mk4 faqs. three screws on the bottom, two behind the door pulls, pull and lift up. Unhook the stuff inside.

*Step Two*
Unhook the plug going to the speaker. Take your power drill and drill out the four rivets holding the OEM speaker to the door. It will pull right out.









*Step Three*
Now were going to build the baffles. Here's the easiest way to do it.
Take your router and set your jig to 7 1/4" and cut a hole. The circle left over will be 6 3/4" in diameter and the perfect size for the stock door.
Next, cut the center out of the circle you just made. You'll want to use the setting on your jig for the cutout diameter provided by your speaker manufacturer.
Next, place your woofer in the rings and use a pencil to mark the cutout holes. Put your woofer aside and take your drill and drill out the holes you just marked.
Depending on how thick your speakers are, you may need to make two rings per woofer. If you're using 3/4" mdf for your rings, you can stack two rings on top of each other and still have room for the woofer. You can fit a speaker up to 3 1/2" deep behind the OEM door skin doing this.







. 
In order to make a double-thick ring read this. If a single ring will suffice, skip this paragraph. Repeat the drilling for the second ring. Apply some wood glue on one of the rings and use the drywall screws to clamp the rings together. Screw them together very tightly! Take a paper towl and wipe up any extra glue seeping out the outside. Depending on your glue and the temperature, the rings could be dry in as little as fifteen minutes.
Now, take woofer and rotate it so that the second set of holes are evenly spaced between the first set. Drill these holes out. You will not have eight holes drilled in your rings.
Next, take the 3/8th inch drill bit and very carefully spin the bit at high speed but very lightly touch the wood. This will in effect drill very slightly into the wood, but the bit won't bite and tear the ring apart. You will do this for four of the eight holes. You'll want to go down into the wood about 1/4". 
Finally, drop a washer in the hole. You'll probably have to press down with a screw driver to get it in. Next, put the 6/32 screw and put it through the hole so the head goes in the notches. You'll want to put a flathead bit in the power drill 'cause it's a lot of screwing to do by hand. Take the bolt all the way down.
(I did these a little out of order becuase I wanted to test-fit everything before doing the full mock-up and write-up. Sorry for the bad pics)
You'll end up with this:








































Test fit your rings. You may need to use a flathead screwdriver to pry the bolts into the stock holes. This is perfectly okay. Feel free to hit the ring
















*Step Four*
Take the non-hardeining modeling clay and make a small ring around the woofer hole. This is twofold. First, the clay will absorb vibrations from the woofer. Second, it will make an airtight seal between the rings and the door pannel.
















*Step Five*
Put your ring on the door. Put a washer on the bolt on the inside of the door. Push hard on the ring and hand-tighten the nuts on the bolts. Then use a socket inside of the door to fully tighten the nuts. Clay will come out the sides of the rings. This is good. You can smear the clay around a little to smoothen the seals on the inside and outside of the ring. If you're sound deadeing the door, apply the deadener over the clay and over the ring.
























*Step Six*
You can now run the wire through the molding. VW was nice enough to use a VERY large mold. Some vehicles I've worked on barely had room for the stock wires, let alone anything aftermarket.
Push the wires through the door into the inside of the car. It's much easier this way. Even though the molding and the hole inside the car doesn't perfectly line up, if you put your fingers up this little hole and keep feeding speaker wire through, it will come right out inside the car.
inside the door:








the molding:








inside the car:
















You can also take this time to solder the wires to the woofer:








*Step Seven*
Put another layer of clay around the top of the ring. This will seal between the ring and the woofer.
*Step Eight*
You will want to cut the drywall screws down. If you're using a double-ring, you don't have to cut them at all. If using a single-ring, you will want to cut them more than halfway off using a dremmel.
Screw the woofer in the remaining four holes tightly. Peel away any extra clay that squeezes out.








*Step Nine*
Reattach the stock door pannels, run your wires, and enjoy.
























I hope this has helped a few people wanting to do some mild upgrades to their stock stereo system. If anyone finds any typos, it's 2:30 am, I won't be offended if you point them out.
Enjoy











_Modified by pwnt by pat at 1:31 AM 3-11-2007_


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## Project A2 JTA (Apr 30, 2002)

*Re: DIY: Installing speakers in a mk4 golf/jetta (pwnt by pat)*

Should go in the DIY. i did one side friday morning and the instructions are dead on. they also sell the speaker brackets for anyone that doesnt want to build the wood parts. http://www.cardomain.com/item/SCOSAVW6 problem areas for me were, taking off the panel that covers the hole (glovebox was being annoying) and drilling the rivets out. (dad didnt charge the drill so i kinda drained it by the 2 rivet







) good job pat


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## pwnt by pat (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Installing speakers in a mk4 golf/jetta (Project A2 JTA)*

Thank you sir. 
I will forever be a fan of mdf rings because you can make 'em exactly how you need 'em. The wood is also cheaper if you have the tools (or know someone who will let you borrow them).
I wish I knew an active mod who could put some stuff in the faq. sent IMs to a couple people but nobody responded.


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## JettaGetUpandGo (Mar 1, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Installing speakers in a mk4 golf/jetta (pwnt by pat)*

I bought those Scosche adapter rings posted above, but they were too shallow for my speakers, so now I have 4 of them lying around with no use.
I wish this DIY was here 24 hours ago when I cut 3/4" MDF rings out with the circle cutter attachment on my Dremel (can't afford a router). I lost count of the number of bits I burned through... I used wood glue to hold the rings together and clamped them until the glue set, I didn't use any screws.
I also didn't use any clay, but the MDF seemed to hug the door pretty tightly, so maybe I will be ok.
Pat, are you using anything between the speaker and the door panel to ensure the sound gets out the door like the stock speaker had? I couldn't come up with a creative way to reuse the stock piece. I bought a 3/4" solid foam tube to hot glue to the edge of my speaker to fill the gap, but I haven't used it yet and I'm looking for other ideas that have less of a chance of damaging the speaker.
Nice DIY, http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by JettaGetUpandGo at 1:21 AM 3-11-2007_


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## pwnt by pat (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Installing speakers in a mk4 golf/jetta (JettaGetUpandGo)*

No sir. With the double-ring, the woofers are very close to the stock grill. There really isn't any need - at least in my case.
You can get mdf rings online. Elemental designs sells them as well as some other places.
Clamping works, but if you're drilling the holes, might as well use screws so you can use your clamps elsewhere, like on a new carpc case








The seal between the wood and the door pannel isn't bad. In the case of my doors, however, the previous owner tried to replace the monsoon speakers only to really f-up the metal. With a hammer I was able to straighten them out but the clay was necessary for a proper seal.


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## JettaGetUpandGo (Mar 1, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Installing speakers in a mk4 golf/jetta (pwnt by pat)*

I'm using the double-rings, so my speaker should sit right where yours is. I couldn't tell how much room you had left there in the pictures and I don't have my door panels back on yet (silly tweeters) to look for myself.
I will definitely keep Elemental Designs for precut rings in mind for the future!


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## pwnt by pat (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Installing speakers in a mk4 golf/jetta (JettaGetUpandGo)*

there's about 1/2" between the grill and woofer. I couldn't get a good pic


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## pwnt by pat (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Installing speakers in a mk4 golf/jetta (pwnt by pat)*

le bump. 
I didn't like the adires so I tried others:


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## Ry4n (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Installing speakers in a mk4 golf/jetta (pwnt by pat)*

Good DIY write-up Pat.
Makes me want to go put my Kappas in finally.


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## BlackRadon (Oct 1, 2006)

did you have any problems with the windows going down all the way? i hear they hit, but i might as well ask.
thanks,
-James


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## afinley (Dec 29, 2004)

*Re: (BlackRadon)*

thats what the spacers are for, to bring the magnet out from the track of the window


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## pwnt by pat (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: (afinley)*

Exactly. There is maybe 3/4" of space between the metal and window hanger when it passes by. By using 1 1/2" of space (two rings) you can easily make a lot of room. By using clay, you can get a little bit more space, about 3/8". The woofers I mounted for this guide are 3 3/8" thick and fit both behind the door skin and cleared the window with absolutely no problems.


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## Project A2 JTA (Apr 30, 2002)

*Re: (pwnt by pat)*

i left too much slack in the wires to the woofer and when i was rolling the window down, i caught them and unhooked them


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## JettaGetUpandGo (Mar 1, 2005)

*Re: (Project A2 JTA)*

Too much slack? I would think too little slack would cause that to happen. If you rotate the speakers so that you mount them with the terminals at the bottom of the opening, then any extra wire should just lay neatly in the bottom of the door panel below where the window reaches.
EDIT: I suppose I could see how too much slack could cause that to happen too depending on where the terminals on the speaker are.


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## BlackRadon (Oct 1, 2006)

Awesome, i just wanted to make sure thats all, im going to tackle this in the spring. and some with some sound deadening.
good write up, keep up the good work man.
-james


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## PaDieselGuy (Feb 20, 2006)

*Re: (pwnt by pat)*

Nice post. May I suggest showing us how to change out the tweeters? I'm thinking about installing components in my doors. I feel confident I could handle the 6.5 part now with this DYI, but not too sure about the tweeters.


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## pwnt by pat (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: (PaDieselGuy)*

To be honest, I don't have any compact tweeters. While playing with the blown ones in my doors, I came to a few conclusions about how to get the stock ones out, though.
Where in pittsburgh are you? I'm 20 minutes up i79 from the downtown area. Perhaps we could add a part II


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## BlackRadon (Oct 1, 2006)

^^^ DO IT!! will come in handy when i do it, ahah.


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## PaDieselGuy (Feb 20, 2006)

*Re: (pwnt by pat)*

I'm in the South Hills but I work up your way, so getting together at some point shouldn't be a problem.
Just finished installing everything last night. Gotta sort out what I did, adjust the levels between sub and rest of system and find out why XM unit sounds terrible. Once I do that, I'll see if I'm keeping stock speakers or not. They don't sound as bad as I thought they might so I may keep them. I'd love to pick your brain about car stereos as I've seen a lot of your posts and you seem to really know your stuff. I'll be in touch.


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## the_art_of_design (Oct 31, 2006)

*Re: (PaDieselGuy)*

just wondering if you need the baffle for the rear speakers?


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## goldyuk (Jun 22, 2006)

*Re: (the_art_of_design)*

thanks for the diy
i am doing this tomorrow, got my amp today








now the only thing i am wondering about is the tweeters
i have infinity's im throwing on there, and i just have no clue how to mount them if i drill the stock ones out
any help guys?
also, better to mount the cross overs in the trunk or the door?
thanks!


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## menace1930 (Jun 7, 2005)

*Re: (goldyuk)*

great writeup http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## imjamesiridebmx (Jul 24, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Installing speakers in a mk4 golf/jetta (Project A2 JTA)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Project A2 JTA* »_they also sell the speaker brackets for anyone that doesnt want to build the wood parts. 


crutchfield.com gives them to you for free







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## JettaGetUpandGo (Mar 1, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Installing speakers in a mk4 golf/jetta (imjamesiridebmx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *imjamesiridebmx* »_crutchfield.com gives them to you for free







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

but Crutchfield also charges a ridiculous amount for their speakers. Crutchfield wanted $269.99 for my Polks and I got them for $179.98 new in the box on eBay.


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## SalemNHGreenGolf2 (Apr 30, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Installing speakers in a mk4 golf/jetta (JettaGetUpandGo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JettaGetUpandGo* »_
but Crutchfield also charges a ridiculous amount for their speakers. Crutchfield wanted $269.99 for my Polks and I got them for $179.98 new in the box on eBay.

You also bought them from EBAY, and have ABSOLUTELY NO WARRANTY on the speakers. And don't drop the "they told me there is a warranty" line, because there isn't. If you doubt me, take a look at my name, figure out my affiliation, and then try to question me again.


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## JettaGetUpandGo (Mar 1, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Installing speakers in a mk4 golf/jetta (PolkGLI)*

I'm fully aware there is no warranty on the speakers. I new that going into it, but that wasn't worth the extra $90.01 to me.


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## LETTERMAN52 (Jul 28, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Installing speakers in a mk4 golf/jetta (JettaGetUpandGo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JettaGetUpandGo* »_I'm fully aware there is no warranty on the speakers. I new that going into it, but that wasn't worth the extra $90.01 to me.

Yeah. Same here.


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## bigglzworth (Feb 4, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Installing speakers in a mk4 golf/jetta (LETTERMAN52)*

Thanks for the write up. I'm going to be doing this soon in the wifes GTI. 


_Modified by bigglzworth at 12:45 PM 4-10-2007_


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## pwnt by pat (Oct 21, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Installing speakers in a mk4 golf/jetta (bigglzworth)*

Before your edit:
Both sets of speakers you see here are 7" woofers. The first set (initial DIY was made for) is 7" exactly. The second set (no pointy cone) is about 7.5" external.


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## justn868 (Jan 20, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Installing speakers in a mk4 golf/jetta (pwnt by pat)*

good write up!


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## blazerpounds (Mar 19, 2008)

doesnt get much better nor complete for a write up. STICKY!


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## jgcleary (Apr 9, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Installing speakers in a mk4 golf/jetta (pwnt by pat)*

Sweet...they finally added this to the Car Audio and MK4 FAQ's. If you are upgrading the woofers in the doors of an MK4 Jetta/Golf, then you will have to install 1-2 of these spacers depending on the depth of your woofer. For 3 reasons:
1. It will prevent the window from hitting the speaker magnet.
2. It will help to protect it from the dirt/moisture on the inside of the door.
3. It will help the woofer to give better bass response.
You can order these online in different materials but I'm in a hurry and I don't have a router so I'm going to have a local shop make 4 of these for cheap.
I'm installing the Polk DB6501 components front and back. The woofers aren't too deep so I'll just need one 3/4" MDF spacer for each with inner diameter of 5" and outer diameter of 6.5". So the lip will be 3/4" thick from inner to outer and the same in depth.


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## Tragicveil (Feb 18, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Installing speakers in a mk4 golf/jetta (pwnt by pat)*

Just started this project, thanks for the great write-up. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Have an issue, though; anyone else experience the phenomena of replacing the speakers, and the tweeters quit working? Is there some rewiring I need to do? I replaced my drivers' side first and I figured it was a fluke, then went to the drivers' rear and it did the same thing. Any ideas?


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## rocco2gti (Nov 11, 2004)

*Re: DIY: Installing speakers in a mk4 golf/jetta (pwnt by pat)*

Dynaudio? MMMMmmmm


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## BLeiss (Mar 17, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Installing speakers in a mk4 golf/jetta (pwnt by pat)*

can you only install woofers or am i able to install 2-way speakers because i know i have separate tweeters and im not sure if there are crossovers so i dont want to install 2-ways if there will be no highs coming from them


_Modified by BLeiss at 8:13 PM 3-16-2009_


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Installing speakers in a mk4 golf/jetta (BLeiss)*

You can install whatever you want, although regardless of what you put in, they will be crossed over to whatever the stock speakers are (unless you do a full rewire or use an aftermarket amp


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## gqjeff (Feb 18, 2002)

What are the colors of the pos and neg wires for the drivers side door 6.5 and tweets and the passenger side and the rear doors? They use stupid ass color wires instead of standard red/black...


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## gqjeff (Feb 18, 2002)

What are the colors of the pos and neg wires for the drivers side door 6.5 and tweets and the passenger side and the rear doors? They use stupid ass color wires instead of standard red/black...


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## johngreene (Feb 22, 2009)

*good DIY*

i'm going with component mids and tweeters. subs in the trunk. is there any room in the doors for electronic crossovers? (4 1/2" x 3" x 1 1/2")
if not, where's the best place for them?


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## rudf0rd (Jan 12, 2009)

*Re: good DIY (johngreene)*


_Quote, originally posted by *johngreene* »_i'm going with component mids and tweeters. subs in the trunk. is there any room in the doors for electronic crossovers? (4 1/2" x 3" x 1 1/2")
if not, where's the best place for them? 

+1. i'm almost going to need this in the near future.


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## xXGti2006Xx (Feb 14, 2006)

tons of room for crossovers, youlll have no issue


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## sanchopanca (Jul 27, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Installing speakers in a mk4 golf/jetta (pwnt by pat)*

I wanted to let everybody know that I just installed 4 new woofers (Alpines) and 4 new tweeters (bought because it had the component package) and I followed this DIY and it worked totally awesome. 
A few things I found different: 
I guess my woofers were smaller than Pat's, so I only used one 3/4" MDF spacer to complete this, front and back. Now that I have retrospect, I think it could have been done with the full 1.5" to kiss up nicely with the panel, but I'm not to concerned with the way that there sitting at all, in fact I'm rather elated. 
I did run into some fun with the wiring. I found that if I solder'd on a an extension to the speaker cable it made things easier. For the back I cut a little hole in the rubber to feed the cable back inside the metal panel so that the wire could feed through the back. The front ones were hard plastic and could have been fed through, but I was getting impatient so I just left them coming through the front, which was no problem, because I had no sunk my bolts that held the MDF onto the door so there was a small little gap between the speaker and the MDF that I could feed the wire though. 
When you take the woofers off, and they have the factory connector, the black and white wires go to the tweeter from the woofer, and the multi colored one are live from the deck. I also found the the wire with the red was the (+) wire. Trial and error, when you put it on a speaker, if its wired right it will pop out, rather than in.. 
My woof/tweet's came with their own wiring, so I soldere'd on the wire that I had extended from the deck onto my pins on the woofer, and then connected the harness that was supplied from the woofer to the tweeter, which was fairly painless. 
Like I mentioned earlier, on the back, the wire was fed through the rubber grommet type thing to feed through the back, but on the front both the deck wires and the tweeter connector wires came through the space between the speaker and the MDF. 
Cutting the grommet was fairly painless once I got the hang of it. Drill straight for a little bit, then do circles with the angle of the drill so that you can cut the flap of the rivet off all 4 and then pop the woofer off. Makes it easier to take the whole rivet off without the speaker there. Watch out you don't push to hard or when you pop through the hole you dont go right into the window glass. I cant see any real reason why the glass had to be rolled all the way down, except to actually see how close it was to the speakers... 
This was a fun install. It forced me to buy myself a jigsaw. I have 4 spacers left over cause i cut all 8 and only needed 4 it turned out, so if anybody in the vancouver area needs 4 - 3/4" MDF 6 1/2" inner diameter spacers I have them and I'll give em away. 
So pumped about my new car. Every time I do something to it feels like a new baby. Tomorrow I change the cabin air filter and air filter and get the oil changed. Yai. 
Good luck y'all!


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Good to hear.
Not listed in this guide but things you'll also want to do:
-buy thick weatherstripping and mount it between the woofer and door, like the OEM gasket. This will help reduce door card vibrations as well as focus the sound through the grill and not behind the door card.
-cut the grill off to (again) reduce door card vibrations


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## sanchopanca (Jul 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Pat @ Pitt Soundworks)*

I'll keep a mind for this vibrating. On testing it tonight, it didnt sound to like there were vibrations going through the car. I know alot of audio nuts go crazy about this stuff. But I think the vw's are made very solidly that its not an issue. I'll keep alert though, vibrating is ugly.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*FV-QR*

door card vibration is EASY to find. Just put your arm on the armrest! Those cards flex like crazy.


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## missioncirca (Jul 4, 2009)

Nice DIY, interesting approach


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## Shouse (Jul 2, 2009)

I don't suppose we can get a write-up on tweeter/crossover install?


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*FV-QR*

wire the speakers from the headunit amp to input on the crossover, wire the tweeters/woofer to the crossover in the designated spot.
DIY for tweeters in the sail panel is just cut out the old ones with a dremel, grind out as necessary, pop the new ones in and hotglue/silicone in place. The panel comes off with a torx screw or two.


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## sanchopanca (Jul 27, 2009)

*Re: (Shouse)*

I just did all 4 tweeters. I'll cover here how I did it. Sorry I didnt take any pictures. 
First off, the back ones are mounted inside of the door panels, so when you take the panel off to do the woofers, you have access to this. The factory tweeters are held in place by something like plastic rivets, and the only way I was able to take them out was to just brake those rivets and pop the tweeter out. I did this using a flathead skrewdriver. 
I'm assuming you did get the 1" tweeters. When you get the factory tweeter out, you'll have a sort of wall on one side of the mount, and the shield which will be facing the interrior. I left that in there. 
Once you have the factory tweeter out of there you should see how your new tweeters will stay in. The posts that the plastic rivet type things were on I had to cut down a little so that the new tweeters could fit into place nicely and smoothly. 
So that was the back two. 
The front ones, I found that the 1" tweeters were to big for the hole, so I ended up having to carve down the wall of the plastic that the tweeter would fit through. You can take off the metal shield by bending the tabs on the inside to point straight out. This gave me easier access to cut. TIP USE A SHARP EXACTO! Working with dull knives is a major pain in the ass and makes you frustrated! 
I'm not sure what kind of crossover unit you have, mine were just lowpass/highpass filters that were inline with the wire that went from the woofers to the tweeters, so I just plugged them both in, fed them through any place I could find that wouldn't get pinched, taped them in place so they stayed nice and tight and didn't get in the way, and presto. Put the door back together. 
Hope this helps! 
To mount the new tweeters, I just placed them in the hole and super glued them in there. I used a piece of tape to hold it together while I finished the rest of the job.


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## sanchopanca (Jul 27, 2009)

*Re: (sanchopanca)*

Note: I did use superglue on the back two. The front ones, I carved down in such a way that they fit in snugly. So far, my speakers are still pumping and no problems! Its been a week.


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## Shouse (Jul 2, 2009)

Yea that kind of helps. I'm installing CDT eurorsports so there is a decent crossover to be installed. How are you guys mounting them in the door?


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## Shouse (Jul 2, 2009)

pictures would be worth a million words here.


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## sanchopanca (Jul 27, 2009)

*Re: (Shouse)*

haha ya sorry man. I wish I woulda taken pictures. I thought about that after putting it all back together, and I was exhausted from the day and it was dark out and I had a cold beer in my hand so I said. I'm done! 
Basically you have to just pop the back tweeters out of there anyhow, so just pop em out. They are only held on by 3 or 4 little plastic pieces, that are about 3mm in diameter, with a T top on them, or some were just melted down ugly like. I found the plastic was brittle enough that I could forcibly pop out the tweeter and the plastic tabs just broke off. Once you have them out you can see alot easier how to mount them. Time to use some ingenuity we know you have cause your on here! 
I started with the back, and when I got to the front I knew how to pop them off in the same way, but it was a little different fit. My tweeters actually came inside of a casing already, so for the back ones I kept them in their casing, but the front ones I unskrewed them from their casing and put them in just as the 1" tweeter because the hole they were going into was to small for the whole deal. No sound difference and behind the plastic case they are in its all good. 
Like I mentioned in my initial post. Its alot easier for the front ones if you take off the metal shieding from the door panel piece (little triangle) that holds the tweeter inside of it by prying the metal tabs to be straight out (this is on the side that faces out of the car when mounted inside). Then you can see what you have to work with. 
HOpe this clears it up a little.


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## Shouse (Jul 2, 2009)

Yea I think that makes more sense. Thanks for the input.
I was cruising through google and saw a custom job where the did exactly this for the speakers, but re-used the rubber flares attached to the OEM speakers to help direct the sound. Think that would help any? worth the effort?


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## sanchopanca (Jul 27, 2009)

*Re: (Shouse)*

no idea. I didnt do it. Mine sound killer. Spose it cant hurt if they fit. I just thought they looked like POS so I chucked em.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Others have done it that way. Honestly, I think it's ghetto


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## b4rg (Aug 14, 2009)

Thanks for the post, very helpful! 
i have stripped down my car door but i am having problems as to which wires i should use. On my new speaker there are spaces for 2 wires but on my orginal speaker there is a connector with 4 wires going in (shown in pic). I think the white and black wires come from the tweeters at the top of the door.
I do not know what the other 2 wires are for (green&brown and red&green).
Can someone advise me on which wires i should use to connect directly to my new speakers.
My car is a golf tdi 2003
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/564/img4207g.jpg


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*Re: (b4rg)*

black and white go to the tweeter, correct.
The other two wires are the input signals for the speakers. I can not recall offhand whether the non-monsoon system's tweeter was crossed over at the tweeter or at the woofer. 
Either way, if you're installing a COMPONENT set (tweeter + mid with crossover), you would wire the red and brown wires to the input on the crossover, then continue on as the manual says. 
If you are installing a "multi-way" coaxial speaker, your best bet is to run those wires to the speaker input, unhook the leads on the coaxial running to the built-in tweeters, and then wire the same input lead for the woofer to the stock tweeter. This is the hairy part: if the tweeters is crossed at the tweeter, that is fine. If it is crossed in the woofer (to do this properly), you will need to make a basic crossover for the tweeter. To do this you will need a 12 microfarad capacitor, a 5 ohm resistor, and a .3 milli-henrey inductor (l2) , and (as close as you can get) to a 9.3 microfarad capacitor (c2). 










_Modified by Pat @ Pitt Soundworks at 1:50 AM 8-15-2009_


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## sanchopanca (Jul 27, 2009)

*Re: (b4rg)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sanchopanca* »_When you take the woofers off, and they have the factory connector, the black and white wires go to the tweeter from the woofer, and the multi colored one are live from the deck. I also found the the wire with the red was the (+) wire. Trial and error, when you put it on a speaker, if its wired right it will pop out, rather than in..


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## b4rg (Aug 14, 2009)

well i did this all today, took me 8 hours but worth it. I have 6x9 in the back and thats the only speakers i had because all my car door ones had blown. Now i have calibers in the front and JBLs in the back and sound is awesome. 
I had one problem. I fixed the cable to the speakers fed it through the door put the door back on and put down the window and it ripped the wires from the terminals, so the door came off again. 
What i did notice is that one speaker is higher in treble than the other front one. I switched the positive and negative terminals but cant figure out if it made a difference, i think it has.
Apart from that it all went smoothly and i made 1 inch baffle for mine.
thanks for the help. 
Ive always wanted to do this and didnt know where to start, brilliant gude!


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*Re: (b4rg)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Yeah, if you run it through the regulator it will hit. I (probably should have mentioned this) find it easier to do this properly with the window down so you know where to run the speaker cable without hitting the window.
6x9's in the back doors? Wanna throw up a picture?


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## b4rg (Aug 14, 2009)

no 6x9 in the rear above the boot placed on the boot compartment door thing. 
It did it again today, so what i did was took the middle right door popper off and put a small steel rod over the circle, hooked a cable tie around the wire and put both ends through where the door popper is meant to go and tied the cable to to the steal rod so the cable is very close to the inside of the door so the window wont interfere with it.
cheers


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## angryhampster (Aug 1, 2008)

*Re: (b4rg)*

If anyone doesn't feel like doing all the work on this, you can buy an adapter online for $8-15. I just picked up a pair from BestBuy.com. 
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Sc...&lp=1


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## edizzle (Apr 26, 2005)

*FV-QR*

do those act like the mdf spacers or just stick in the door and hold the speakers place? also, i think plastic spacers would = rattle?


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## cheffk4 (Jan 26, 2010)

*??//*

i just picked up a set of 4 power acoustik mid-65's, there 4 inches deep, how big of a spacer do you think i would need? would i be good with a one inch spacer?


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Most plastic spacers aren't as strong. A much better option is cutting boards from Walmart/target. They can be melted together with a soldering iron, and cut with a router - not in that order of course.
4" deep speakers will not fit. They will hit off of the window carrier. You could try. You'll need *at least* 2"" spacers. and you'll also have to cut grills out and mount the speaker in the cabin. You can fit a max 1.5" spacer behind the factory door card. With a 1.5" spacer, you can run up to a 3 3/8" mounting depth. 

According to bestbuy, they have a 3.5" mounting depth. You could try 1.5" spacers, but I highly doubt they're going to fit without scraping.


_Modified by Pat @ Pitt Soundworks at 3:11 PM 4-26-2010_


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## bizkwik221 (Jul 1, 2010)

Good stuff.. added to my bookmarks so I will have this for the weekend. Thanks man.
:beer:


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## Dropdead88 (Jun 21, 2010)

i wanna do this .. thanks for the write up


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## Blown7.3lps (Feb 7, 2008)

does anyone notice that the factory speakers have a little more bass punch to them then aftermarket? or maybe im just buying cheap speakers when iv done my speaker swaps in the past. this does look sweet for when my speakers get warn out though.


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## roadrunninmark (Sep 20, 2008)

*which is + for the power in, the red/green or brown/green?*

From what I understand from the posts, the factory plug has 4 wires, red/green (+for woofer?) and brown/green (- for woofer?)? The other 2 are for the tweeter. Can someone tell me which is the + for the power in?

I have the monsoon single DIN and I am also replacing the tweeters too. The tweeters have a resister on the back of them so I take it that is the crossover for it. So I have to wire in the crossover with my Kappas.

Mark


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## Sean7 (Apr 28, 2002)

Is there a DIY just like this one for the MK3 Jetta? I have yet to peek behind my speaker grills to see if there is clearance to add a 1.5 inch adapter piece like this one. 

I tried searching, but all I can find is this thread

Thanks for the help :beer:


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## jazzb5s4 (Dec 10, 2009)

Hey guys i have a 2000 jetta my front passenger speaker went bad and i got a a pair of 6 1/2 inch pioneer speakers my car has manual windows so will the window touch the magnet or will i def need that spacer if so where can i get one?


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

depends on depth


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## GL03 (Sep 1, 2003)

*Best method to replace speakers, with factory harness no modification*

You can install aftermarket speakers into your MKIV using the Factory fitted Spacer/plastic housing fitted on car. YOu don't need to make any, you will use the ones in the car. They are reusable. The factory harness you will not need to modify it, it will plug into the same location. You will gut out the speaker out of the ring casing and install your speaker in place of it. 

Use a dremel, *****, or jig handsaw to core out the speakers from the black plastic ring casing. Carefully do this with speaker spacer/ring fitted. DOn't need to disconnect the speakers. Avoid damaging the speaker connector, you will solder your speaker to this later from the back side. Cut the two speaker wires closest to the speaker.
Don't touch the rivets, these secure the the ring onto the door. 

Once you removed speaker core, install female spade connectors to your aftermarket speaker. leaving a couple of inches slack, solder the other ends to the back of the inside of ring connector. Pay attention to polarity. Secure speaker with short sheetmetal screws. Roll the window up and down and check for clearance. 

Factory speaker harness will be fitted,spacer/ring fitted, and look like a factory set-up , when you are done.


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## verwustung2 (Mar 22, 2011)

*attaching the wood rings to the door*



pwnt by pat said:


> There isn't one in the facts and i thought I'd spend my three spare hours this week doing something constructive. It also clears some space out of my room
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
what did you use to attach the wood rings to the door? and do you have a picture of what the stock wiring looks like on the speakers befor you installed the woofer? im looking to install better speakers in my jetta but b4 i start working on it i want to know what im up against for wiring new speaker in


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

Please don't quote pictures. If you could edit that out I would really appreciate it. 

The rings were held in using 2" 6-32 machine screws. The factory wiring is a 2-pin connector for monsoon, 4-pin for non-monsoon IIRC and it's not "inside" the door, but rather next to the cone of the speaker.


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## peterlopez99 (May 5, 2011)

*the rest ?*

do you have more pics of the rest of the car ? and where you the rest?took the wiring to the back?

also why did you chose 2 3/4 ring when 1 was enough? it worked for me...i would like to know the reason of this. maybe your gettin better bass or sound quality from the speaker when its closer to the panel.

thank you


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

No more pictures.

Two rings are necessary when you run real speakers that actually have some meat to their motors and more than 3mm xmax


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## GTMonster (Sep 30, 2010)

Can anyone tell me if I use Autoleads SAK 3103 standard spacers... what is the max depth of speaker will fit it in the rear door of a MK4 Golf? 
Does the window go far enough down to touch the speaker?


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## Shouse (Jul 2, 2009)

just a note, I took my door panel off today to deal w/ a door handle issue and found my mdf baffle with a giant gash in it. Doesn't look like water damage (i sealed mine too). It's pretty stiff too, I can't push the mdf in to cover the gash or anything. Not sure if it's heat, weight of the speaker or what. Had it installed for about 2 years now. Just wanted to throw the warning out there.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

Most likely moisture soaked in and it doesn't look like it because it's dried. See it all the time. This needs re-done. I recommend only using cutting boards when moisture could be a concern.


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## Shouse (Jul 2, 2009)

yup yup, going to redo it tomorrow. I've seen water destroy mdf before. The typical swollen up look. It's not swollen at all so it couldn't have been a crazy amount of moisture. Do you think it's from humidity or rain water? And what do you mean by 'cutting board'?


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

It's mostly from moisture coming between the window and the seal then finding it's way along the back side of the window regulator and up to the mdf. It's always very humid around here and my MDF pile doesn't have any problems unless it comes in direct contact with water.

http://www.google.com/search?um=1&h...&gs_upl=3371l4162l0l8l6l0l1l1l1l118l468l2.3l5


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## akrazyassho (Jul 18, 2010)

These are the adapters I bought:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Scosche...air)/7200575.p?id=1185265822615&skuId=7200575

They work great, nice fit, no fuss installation and great price. If you don't want to mess w/ MDF rings these work great, I've had them for two and a half years w/ no problems.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

Premade adapters are great until you start installing real speakers


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## fuerte (Sep 29, 2010)

So i have a 2 door gti, i have 6.5 speakers all 4 ends? Also is it best to go with componat speakers or buy tweeters sperate?


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## VDubieU (Jul 3, 2011)

Do you have any pictures of how you routed the speaker wire into the driver side door? I triend to insert it from the door into the car but I couldn't.


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## Emron (Mar 27, 2007)

VDubieU said:


> Do you have any pictures of how you routed the speaker wire into the driver side door? I triend to insert it from the door into the car but I couldn't.


Seriously?

And how did you try?

Seriously? Wow.

Route the wires with the rest of the door wires.


^drunk post. I'm not always an *******.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

It's MUCH MUCH easier to get the wires through the door guide if you take pull the rubber boot off of the clip on the body side. Then you can feed the wire through the body, then down through the rubber. And when you're done, slip the rubber boot back over it's clip.


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## drewdrewhein (Aug 9, 2011)

are the speaker grilles directly attached the the door panel? i want to put different grilles in but i want to know if all have to cut the current ones out of the door panel


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

they are held in by large plastic rivets. to remove, take a very large drill bit and spin it on the back side of the door skin where the rivet attaches at medium speed and very light pressure. This will cut the head off quickly and cleanly.


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## ivanVT (Dec 10, 2011)

*2002 VW Jetta Aftermarket Speakers Solution?*

Hey guys. 
I have a 2002 Jetta that I bought used around 3 years back when I was in high school. It came with an aftermarket head unit installed in it (older model Pioneer Mosfet 50Wx4 I think). The speakers didn't get swapped out, so I was left with all stock. No more than 6 months after I started driving my Jetta, pretty much all of the speakers were blown. It's probably because I had them blasting all the time... the only sound I had for a while came from both tweeters in the front that are mounted in the A-pillar near the side mirrors. They actually sounded pretty good and I saw no need to replace them.

Another 2 or 3 months went by until I got the money to buy some new speakers to swap out the old ones. I got 4 Sony X-Plode coaxial speakers on sale for like $80 when Circuit City was going out of business. (not quite sure, but probably an earlier model of one that looked like this: http://store.sony.com/webapp/wcs/st...10151&langId=-1&productId=8198552921665804573)
I didn't really research what I needed before I scooped them up because they were on sale and I was young and just wanted music in my car. Eventually, I got some of the plastic spacers so I could mount them in my doors and the VW speaker harness to convert the black and red wires to that European plug format.

Now with everything I thought I needed, I proceeded to take off all of the door panels, and rip out the rivets and old woofers with back of a hammer. Mounting the spacers to the doors was pretty easy. I didn't use any clay like I saw one of you put between your spacers and the door (I don't really hear any vibrating so its cool with me). After mounting all of the new speakers in the doors on their spacers and connecting them their speaker harnesses I ran into a problem.

The coaxial speakers in the front doors played both high and lows, utilizing the whole speaker, while the front tweeters continued to sound great. The problem I encountered was that the rear door speakers only were playing the lows, not utilizing its built in tweeter, while the tweeters that are mounted in the door panel near the door handle remain broken. I have been rolling around with this setup ever since. Honestly, I have a nice sound quality projecting from the front of me, but the back just sucks. When you sit in the back seat it sounds like my stereo is real whack.

Wow that was kind of a long story just to get to that point. My question to you DIY dudes out there is, What do you think the best way to approach solving this situation?


Since I have a coaxial speaker mounted in the back already, would it be easier to just divert the signal going to the tweeter mounted in the door to the speaker I installed using a crossover? 
----This is probably the easiest and cheapest solution to my problem right? I'd like this a lot because it would actually put those rear speakers to use for once.
----I really don't feel like buying a component speaker set to replace those speakers in the rear doors and put in new tweeters if I don't have to. Broke college student...
Do you think it is going to be necessary to get an amp to pump up the power delivered to those rear speakers?.....This will probably be much more expensive and a pain the ass to install I'm guessing


Honestly, I don't know too much about car audio and wiring, but I have been reading up a little on it in forums the past few days. I think I can tackle it by myself or with a buddy. If you think you have some sort solution or advice to me that'd be awesome.


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## JoeHL (Nov 22, 2011)

Really useful! I had something similar to this, but I used foam and it wasn't quite as sturdy so I think I am going to try this method. Do you have any rattling at all?


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## chicago_audi (Nov 11, 2004)

*speaker frames*

http://www.honeydohardware.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=60673


Drill 4 holes 90 degrees apart to attach to car door. The speaker holes on my Jetta are 6.2" / 156mm apart.
Drill 4 holes offset 45 degrees from above to attach speaker to grate. My Pioneer TS-A1604C speaker holes have a 6" diameter.
mount speaker to grate with #6x2 screws ( or whatever is appropriate )


The inside depth of the grate 1.8 in so if your speaker is deeper than that you will need to cut a 2" or 3" hole for the speaker to protrude a drop.
I am going to use a 7" piece of rubber shower base to make a seal between door cavity and drain which will eliminate the need for caulk and also will help keep the little bolts in place before inserting them into the bottom part of the drain.

I would attach photos but I do not think Vortex has a photo hosting process.


$3.40 and about 10 minutes worth of work.


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## DFreshh (Mar 16, 2012)

*Wiring*

So I know nothing about stereo systems. With that said if this is a stupid question... im sorry. 

Im running the stock non monsoon stereo with four blown speakers, is there a way to use the factory wiring to install aftermarket speakers? or would this be really bad way to do it?


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## FigureFive (Dec 21, 2003)

DFreshh said:


> So I know nothing about stereo systems. With that said if this is a stupid question... im sorry.
> 
> Im running the stock non monsoon stereo with four blown speakers, is there a way to use the factory wiring to install aftermarket speakers? or would this be really bad way to do it?


 Audiophiles would probably say that the factory wiring isn't thick enough or high enough quality, but I don't think most people would be able to tell the difference. 

That said, you can use the factory wiring, but you'll have to clip the factory speaker connector off the wires making it difficult to go back to OEM speakers later if needed. However, it's the easiest thing to do if you're running a factory head unit or factory Monsoon amp as running speaker wires to them would involve clipping the harness and splicing there.


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## DFreshh (Mar 16, 2012)

FigureFive said:


> Audiophiles would probably say that the factory wiring isn't thick enough or high enough quality, but I don't think most people would be able to tell the difference.
> 
> That said, you can use the factory wiring, but you'll have to clip the factory speaker connector off the wires making it difficult to go back to OEM speakers later if needed. However, it's the easiest thing to do if you're running a factory head unit or factory Monsoon amp as running speaker wires to them would involve clipping the harness and splicing there.


 Ok fair enough! Do I have to worry about the new speakers being underpowered or anything like that??

Also the factory wiring has 4 wires. How do I address this seeing that aftermarket speakers utilize only two?

Thanks in advance!


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## FigureFive (Dec 21, 2003)

Do all four wires connect to the woofer in the door or do you have separate tweeters up in the corner of the window, so 2 wires into the woofer and 2 wires into the tweeter? 

I've only worked with MkIV's with a Monsoon amp which a pair of wires to each woofer and tweeter, so there's a total of 8 pairs of wires.


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## Fbmowner (Aug 10, 2012)

8/19/12 and this guide was an amazing help! I basically followed every instruction and I am very pleased. With all the proper tools this guide is the best for front door speakers, thanks for posting!


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## Aeroproz (Jan 7, 2013)

*Installing 6.5 inch rear speakers in your Golf Coupe or GTI Coupe (Mk4 / MkIV)*

I installed the following speaker from amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036MQWR4/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00


























I suggest removing the outer styrofoam, It caused massive rattling after installing my bass drivers. Remove seat cushions then work on the panels, it is connected at the trunk area by a clip so don't break your trunks parcel shelf's rails. No baffle or spacers used or needed here. I used kicker 6.5 mid bass drivers to replace the blown woofers, and bolted Pioneer 6x9s to the back of the seat, the bass drivers are completely free air (gain @ 50% & bridged) and the 6x9s have vented boxes, (still running stock veewee speakers in the front doors at partial volume to minimise distortion and a future blow out). Everyone asks me if I have a giant sub box in the back, I do not . 

Just a tip for those wanting to go the bass driver route instead of normal component speakers, set your amps settings up before putting the panels back on your car, your going to want your component speakers to max out before your subs, your not going to hear the subs distorting over your mids and highs, expetually if they are unsealed or unboxed like mine are. I tried to use Styrofoam baffles, it was an epic fail, they rattled more then a blown speaker and limited movement and muffled the smooth bass, they are now in the recycle Styrofoam bag where they belong. Stick to solid baffles and you should be good if you care that much, I prefer free air anyways.

I would love to stick a bigger sub in but kinda iffy without any instruction or diy, if i know ahead of time I am gunna have to do sheet metal work I can plan accordingly.

I will have better pictures and an actual diy soon, I think im gunna go for different speakers anyways, maybe even size up and take pics of my process so you can copy my procedure.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

You need to glue the foam baffles to the sheet metal. Without something to enclose the speakers rear wave you will have a ton of bass cancellation.

Bigger sub? Go for it. Cut the spare tire well out, weld up a plate, and build the box under the car. Best way to do it.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## Aeroproz (Jan 7, 2013)

The baffles are rattling at the back, idk how to fix it maybe glue the baffles to the speaker or wedge something in the quarter panel, but that may bust the speaker one day. Both options sound unappealing really. Any ideas?


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

Glue the baffles to the quarter panel. Or fiberglass sealed pods.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## Aeroproz (Jan 7, 2013)

There is a good six inches of breathing room to the quarter panel. I am going to search the internet for some sort of official instruction on the Styrofoam baffles. Perhaps theres a simple solution I have overlooked.

Edit: Apparently they are garbage for my application, I guess I will be either leaving it as is, mounting boxes in that same spot or mounting them to the back of the seat and reversed.


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## jrjr6565 (Mar 8, 2013)

*checking before buying*

Anyone know if any of these two sets will fit if I follow this guide with the same measurements he used. I will be buying these in the next few days hopefully. And will the cross overs fit in the doors? 

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575T1675S/Rockford-Fosgate-Power-T1675-S.html 

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575T165S/Rockford-Fosgate-Power-T165-S.html


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## chicago_audi (Nov 11, 2004)

*easiest way to put speakers in the door - short of using VW OEM*

NDS 6 in. Plastic Green Structural Foam Polyolefin Round Grate
Home Deport Store SKU # 703370

put 4 holes in the outer base/lip of the grate and use 1.5 inch long #6 bolts and attach the speakers into the door panel. Caulk the base if you wish an air tight seal. Takes about 5 minutes. Holds the speaker very firmly and provides a air tube. You may need to dremel away some of the cross mesh plastic depending on the depth of the speakers. I used a pair of tin snips the first time I did this, a dremel the 2nd and a jigsaw the 3rd .... no difference. I also trimmed about 1/2 inch from the overall length of the grate so it sat more behind the door speaker cover ... ymmv here.


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## caseyfriday (Sep 26, 2013)

I just performed this DIY in my MK4 02 Golf TDI. You can see my installation write-up and pics at TDI Club. I installed some 6.5" bass drivers in the rear doors.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=4301085


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## Crookiee (Dec 28, 2013)

so Im about to go replace my two front monsoon speakers, because the drivers side died, with some Pioneer TS-A1675R 6-1/2" 3-Way TS Series Coaxial Car Speakers,

But Ive got a question or two about your DIY

First of All, Call me an idiot, but whats that wire you've got at the end of your DIY, Whats it for? Do I need it? or is it just because you've got an Amp? Or sub or whatever.

And is there anything I need to rewire or can I just plug the old ones into the new speakers and play?


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## LANS1NG (Jan 23, 2010)

Can you install aftermarket 2 way door speakers using factory wiring? Couldn't i just disconnect the factory tweeter and only hook up the two ways to the woofer harness? FYI my car is non monsoon with an alpine deck installed. I'm curious because i have a four 2 way aftermarket speakers from my previous vehicle and like to reuse and not shell out for components. Any advice appreciated! :beer:


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## e_identity (Sep 5, 2007)

*Source for pPre-cut MDF Adapter Rings available on EBay*

Hope this helps someone. This thread was very helpful to me, Thanks.
After a lot of searching, I found that pre-cut adapter rings in mdf and pvc are available on ebay.

I ordered a pair of 6 1/2" MEDIUM MDF rings ($8/pr shipped).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/291290342686
According to the website, Ring specifications are as follows:

6 1/2" rings
ID = 5 3/8" (5.375”)
OD 6 3/4" (6.75”)
Thickness .75"

The vendor's ebay store (Sound Mekanix) also mentions that custom sizes are available.
I will have to drill the holes myself as they do not appear to be pre-drilled.


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