# 2010 Eos Window (Driver side) not working!



## FL_Jetta08 (Jul 2, 2008)

Ok, what is the deal? I put the roof down, put it back up - while car is off. All windows go up EXCEPT for the drivers side. It goes up 1/4, then back down. Up 1/4, then down again. It will not go up 100% even with the ALL window switch on the door. I tried a few clicks to get it to go up.... no success. Once it reaches a mid point, it auto goes back down. :banghead:


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## ialonso (Aug 26, 2006)

*Try to reset pinch protection*

Check the manual for Window Pinch Protection reset or similar. 

I think you hit the "window up" switch a couple of times, and leave it up, and the window is supposed to defeat pinch protection and keep going up to the fully closed position. 

I give it 10% chance of success, but it's free to try, and beats going to the dealer if it works


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## FL_Jetta08 (Jul 2, 2008)

I just checked other websites and apparently, the rubber door seals need better lubrication. The widow is rubbing against the rubber seals and it thinks something is obstructing the window (friction). So, after calling the dealer, they are mailing me the lub. Pretty sure this is normal and my car hasn't been 'broken in' yet. Love the car.


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## just-jean (Sep 14, 2006)

your other choice is that as soon as you turn the car off or take the key out the window goes down to let you out


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## FL_Jetta08 (Jul 2, 2008)

ok... this is REALLY starting to annoy me! Its 100 degrees outside, I go to roll the windows down a few inches and the same window goes all the way down. No, it will not go up 100%. I got it to finally go up 98%. I then wanted to just keep the driver door window up 100% - you know when you open the car door, the window drops a 1/2 inch? Well, it did that and will not go back up 100% once door is closed.

This is unbelievable!! :banghead:

I called the dealership to inquire about the liquid to use on the rubber seals and the guy has me scheduled for this sat to look at the car. (they were suppose to mail the liquid last week - never got it) I told him to make sure all the parts are there as I really don't want to drive across town, have them look at the car and say... here is the problem, we don't have that part in stock - maybe in a week or two. yada yada.... You know his response was basically, that is true, they may not have the items in stock and we will just wait and see. /sigh....


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## just4fun (Oct 29, 2006)

As already mentioned, it could be as simple as reseting the pinch protection, but it is sounding like it's a bit more involved than that.

Could also be a window regulator malfunctioning. I'm not certain if they can be re-programmed or not. It may be necessary to replace it.

It is very frustrating when a brand new car acts up, but the good thing is it is under warranty.

I hope it is a simple fix and that they get you sorted out first time round.

Kevin


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## FL_Jetta08 (Jul 2, 2008)

Thanks Kevin,

I went to the manual and honestly, can not quite understand the process they spelled out. 

It states on pg 59, 
"IF you are unable to determinate why the window will not close, try closing the window again by holding down the button within 10 seconds. The pinch protection is now deactivated for a few millimeters. Pinch protection is then reactivated and stops the window when it senses any type of interference."

So, if I read this correctly, I hold the window switch (as though I am wanting it to close) for 10 sec. Then release, then quickly hold again - to close. I'm also guessing the underlined was suppose to be a measurement of time, not length. That part is a bit confusing.


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## just4fun (Oct 29, 2006)

I think it just means if you try to close the window again, within 10 seconds of the first attempt, pinch protection is deactivated.

In the 2007 manual it states "closing the window again within 10 seconds, the windows closing force increases. If there is no oblivious reason why the widow won't close, try again within 5 seconds, *the pinch protection is now off, the window closes with maximum force.*

I don't know if this has changed in subsequent years.

I believe there is also an initial calibration that is done on the window regulators/motors during PDI, this sets the correct tension for each window based on the actual resistance encountered. This allows compensation for minor differences in tolerances. It is possible yours has gone out of calibration.

There was a thread about this, way back in the begining of the forum, I tried to find it, but it seems the archives are no longer available.

I'm not sure if this is can be done DIY, or if it requires a trip to the dealership. If memory serves, you can do it yourself, but it is a somewhat convoluted process. 

A word of advice, don't hold much faith in my memory.

Kevin

*EDIT:* Based on the info I can find, there are two possible steps that *may* fix your problem. Step 1: Adaptation of windowow control module. Step 2: Window travel basic settings. 

From what I found, these are probably best performed by you service tech. It is quite possible they will try one, or both, of these procedures in determining whether or not there is a component failure.


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## FL_Jetta08 (Jul 2, 2008)

Two words.... Saturday dealership.


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## FL_Jetta08 (Jul 2, 2008)

Update:

So, last Saturday I took the car into the dealership bright and early. 7:30am. They had the car for about 2 hours, could not reproduce the problem. They apparently went over the seals with lubricant and that was about it. I drove it home (top down) put the top up and windows worked fine. Drove it later in the day and worked fine... Next day, driving to the mall with roof down begins to lightly rain. Pull over, put the roof up and you guessed it, driver side window refused to go up all the way. It stopped half way up. I drive to the mall, park under the garage to get out of the rain and tried the window. This time it goes up.

Called the dealership on Monday to tell them its still doing it. They offered to fill tank with gas to bring it in. I keep the tank full, so that is really a nice gesture but not really what I'm after. VWoA called and asked how it went. I explained it and they too had no solution other than to take it back to the dealership.

Not sure what to do really - yes, taking it back to dealership is one thing even though they had plenty of time to find a problem the first round. Can't believe my car is the only car that is having this issue! Could the window itself be cut wrong, causing it to rub which in turn activates the pinch protection?? Honestly, something must be done. I am SURE VW doesn't want a NEW 2010 VW owner sitting in a parking lot playing with a window that refuses to go UP! That sure attracts attention!

Pulling up a 40K car's window because it refuses to go up..... seriously, this is not only embarrassing but a glitch that should have been hammered out in testing/R&D long before the car hit the road.


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## just4fun (Oct 29, 2006)

So much much for getting it sorted out first time round 

Window problems were not unheard of on the earlier model Eos. Not epidemic by any means, but there were a few threads here with owners reporting similar problems.

The problem was addressed at the production level, so there have been few reports of continued problems recently (at least I have't seen many lately).

So you are not the only one to experience a similar problem. There was even a TB released on window problems. I don't recall all the details, but the TB may not be directly related to your particular problem. Still, VW does have some history/knowledge of the issue to draw on.

That is not to say your problem is the same as in the past, it could be completely unrelated, but VW should have some idea where to start a diagnosis based on history.

Unfortunately dealerships are unwilling to act quickly on problems they can't reproduce in the shop. This is not unique to VW. They all seem unwilling to take our word that a problem is present.

Hope it is more productive second time around.

Kevin


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## just4fun (Oct 29, 2006)

OK, I've been searching around looking for any recent information I can find on this problem.

Now.... I'm grasping at straws here, and this may sound way out in left field, but it is simple to do, and maybe worth a try.

TB 64-08-10 explains that the widows are programmed not to go up in the event of a low voltage situation. This is to prevent the window from scuffing the seal when opening or closing the door.

The TB seems to deal specifically with the window not going back up after it drops the few mm when opening the door. However it made me think that low voltage from a weak (not dead, just weak) battery could possibly cause the window to not go up all the way because the programming is sensing a low voltage.

As new Eos owners we often operate the top a lot more than normal while showing off the car, and, maybe not driving it for long stretches to put a good charge back in the battery.

Anyway, I thought it might be worthwhile mentioning, and suggest putting the car on a battery charger overnight for a good 12 hour or so charge to see if it helps.

Kevin


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## BostonB6 (Nov 16, 2005)

It's under warranty. Just bring it to the dealer and have them fix it for you.


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