# '02 1.8T Jetta not shifting gears from 1st, when cold



## asparagii (Jan 5, 2009)

Good afternoon all.
I bought this car ~1 month ago. It's done 90000 miles. I also own the Bently service manual for the car. The transmission is 5 speed, auto tiptronic.
A licensed dealer did the 80000 mile service at 86000 miles. I didn't own the car then though.
Was running fine in Florida (warm). I just went on a road trip ~2000 miles. Enroute, I blew an ignition coil. It was in cylinder 4 and the misfiring was shaking the car up pretty bad. Found a local mechanic (it was a small town on the weekend) and we diagnozed the problem then moved the coil to cylinder 3, as it ran a lot better. I couldn't buy the part there, so I drove ~60 miles to get to my destination, where a VW dealer was located. The shaking of the car decreased noticably over 3000 revs - you could tell it was still misfiring, but it wasn't too bad.
Next morning, on my way to the dealer to get the part, this transmission problem 1st appeared (this is about 1 week ago from the date of this post). Now it could be related, or just coincidence. The weather got noticably cooler (Nth Georgia, Sth Tenn.) hereon in. I replaced the faulty coil and now the engine's running nicely again.
Transmission problem details:
Initially it wouldn't shift out of 1st, even when up to 5000 revs - however the tiptronic indicator said it was in 2nd or 3rd - no matter how I shifted it, it stayed in first. No alarms are posted on the dashboard, from the computer. After some time going around in circles, it eventually changed gears and then worked perfectly. Upon starting and stopping multiple times that day, it worked perfectly - however next morning same deal - stuck in first. So my assumption is that the problem is due to the transmission fluid being cold. This problem has continued every morning since. 
I have just arrived back in Florida last night and it's still happenning - despite the warm weather. It's also becoming more frequent - i.e. if the car's parked more than a couple hours, it'll happen. Initially this wasn't the case - it was overnight only.
My standard method of getting the car working now: Drive on backstreets @ ~3000 revs max., all the while using the tiptronic to try and get it to move from 1st to 2nd. After ~5-10 minutes of this, it'll change and then run perfectly. No alarms have ever been displayed for this on the console.
I don't know when (if ever) the auto transmission fluid has been changed. According to the Bently service manual, it is checked at 80 000, but not replaced. 
I found this website - note I'm not affiliated with them. It says replace the transmission fluid and filter every 30000 miles. They have a kit for $110 to do so. It isn't Official VW equipment though - but they say it's equivalent. I would like other's opinions please - I want to do the work myself, as a first attempt anyway.
http://www.blauparts.com/vw/vw...shtml
So I s'pose want I want to know is:
1) Do you think changing the auto transmission fluid and filter is a good first step to solving this problem?
2) Do you think this kit is worthwhile and not a rip-off?
3) Other suggestions/options - am I on the right track?
Thanks in advance for any comments,
David


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## asparagii (Jan 5, 2009)

*Re: '02 1.8T Jetta not shifting gears from 1st, when cold (asparagii)*

I just rang Aamco and they told me over the phone it sounded like "morning sickness". He reckons that a "soft parts overhaul" will be required and will cost me ~$2200. He reckons oil and filter change won't help - waste of $.
What do you all think?
Regards,
David


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## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: '02 1.8T Jetta not shifting gears from 1st, when cold (asparagii)*

First thing is you *CAN'T* change the filter on your transmission. The whole transmission has to come apart to change it. Crappy design for sure. You can however change the fluid yourself. I used the VW OEM fluid and my tranny still crapped out. I now use Mercon V which is far more inexpensive, $4 a quart versus $16 a quart if you can get it at a discount. Most dealers charge $32-40 a quart. I have used this fluid for 91k miles with no problems. I think the next thing you need to do is find somebody local with VAG-COM and do a proper scan of the TCM to check for codes. If none are presesnt, then try changing the fluid, but don't expect a miracle. You might get lucky.


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## jackieheath (Dec 24, 2008)

my 02 1.8 jetta has been having the same problems for about 6 months now. it kept getting progresivley worse until now it takes a full 10 to 15 minutes to get it to shift from 1st to 2nd. I did a fluid change with factory fluid and that did nothing. I got the codes pulled on a vag com and it showed nothing. I have the car at a local shop right now. The mechanic is going to check the solenoids in the tranny. He thinks the one that allows the first to second upshift is not working. I am hoping he gives me a call tommorow. I will post as soon as I learn more. Please do the same if you find the anser to the problem. Thanks


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## asparagii (Jan 5, 2009)

Thx for replies - appreciate it.
Ok will look for the Mercon V fluid Coolbdub - thx. I reckon you're right re: sussing out the VAG. I didn't realize that the TCM would still give info, if no alarms were displayed on the dashboard. Am I right in assuming no visual alarms on dashboard, may still give a reading on the VAG tool???
Jackie - sounds like we're in the same boat. I'm up to about 10-15minutes now too and it's only been 1 week - so you did ok. Yes please tell me if you discover anything - appreciate it greatly - I'll do the same for you. My goals for tomorrow are to ring a local VW dealer and get their opinion. I will look at the ATF level tommorrow if possible.
Looking in my Bentley book, it says all 9 solenoid v/v's in the valve body and the shift lock solenoid v/v are hooked up to the onboard diagnostics (OBD). Also the transmission range, shaft speed, vehicle speed, transmission rpm speed, ATF temp and brake pressure switches/sensors for are hooked up to the OBD. Therefore if I'm getting the picture, they should feedback via the Transmission Control Module and therefore be detected by a VAG tool no? If so, why aren't you getting alarms?
regards, 
David


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## samc (Jan 15, 2002)

*Re: (asparagii)*

I've got the same problem as you guys.
I've tried a fluid change and it didn't help. Jackie I hope you can post up a good solution as I can't afford the $2,xxx repair bills as the second poster.
But if you need to drive your car what I have done is start up the car, it will obviously rev a bit high. After 2 minutes or so turn off and turn back on. Wait till the idle goes down below the first line (900??) on your tachometer and then your car should start to shift. Drive normally until your car fully warms up and then it should be fine.
I know it's not a solution but more of a bandage but this is what I had to start doing to just drive my car. Sooner or later I will take my car into the mechanics as well.


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## asparagii (Jan 5, 2009)

*Re: (samc)*

Thx for tips Sam. I tried it once and not sure of results yet. It def. shifted quicker than just driving around alone - but I also waited till I felt it 'try' to shift from 1st to 2nd, then I put my foot down a bit tp increase revs and it worked. Maybe took 5 minutes instead of 15? Anyway, like you say a bandaid - I need to sort this out. 
I am going to the VW dealer today for a diagnostic. I don't know if I will go straight ahead with any suggested repairs - depends on price etc. This dealer and I did not get off on the right foot, so I'm a but wary of their advice and I may get a 2nd opinion first. But I will post findings.
David


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## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: (asparagii)*


_Quote, originally posted by *asparagii* »_Thx for replies - appreciate it.
Ok will look for the Mercon V fluid Coolbdub - thx. I reckon you're right re: sussing out the VAG. I didn't realize that the TCM would still give info, if no alarms were displayed on the dashboard. Am I right in assuming no visual alarms on dashboard, may still give a reading on the VAG tool???
*YES*
Jackie - sounds like we're in the same boat. I'm up to about 10-15minutes now too and it's only been 1 week - so you did ok. Yes please tell me if you discover anything - appreciate it greatly - I'll do the same for you. My goals for tomorrow are to ring a local VW dealer and get their opinion. I will look at the ATF level tommorrow if possible.
Looking in my Bentley book, it says all 9 solenoid v/v's in the valve body and the shift lock solenoid v/v are hooked up to the onboard diagnostics (OBD). Also the transmission range, shaft speed, vehicle speed, transmission rpm speed, ATF temp and brake pressure switches/sensors for are hooked up to the OBD. Therefore if I'm getting the picture, they should feedback via the Transmission Control Module and therefore be detected by a VAG tool no? If so, why aren't you getting alarms?
*You should have codes in the TCM, they may or may not trigger an engine CEL*
regards, 
David


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## jackieheath (Dec 24, 2008)

I never got a CEL light. The only codes my tcm showed were a bad tip switch and shift lock solenoid. The tip switch has been bad for a while. Months before the car quit upshifting. I think the shift lock solenoid code from where I had some stuff unpluged before and started the car. I dont believe either of these would have anything to do with the car not upshifting but then again I am no V-dub tech.


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## VW_FAST1.8T (Mar 19, 2008)

i have a tranny in my barn that came out of a 2002 gti 1.8t with 68,000 miles on it $200 and it is yours


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## asparagii (Jan 5, 2009)

*Re: (VW_FAST1.8T)*

VW dealer told me that there were no error codes from TCM/ECM and transmission fluid level ok. (I assume still old fluid though). The 'adaptions' (computer reset) were done - no difference. They told me I'd need new transmission which is $5400.
I will not be doing this.
Aamco said that pretty common for transmissions this age to require new o-rings - i.e. the 'soft parts overhaul' I posted above. That price is ~$2400.
I spose next step is to find out how much a reconditioned transmission would cost. I assume that'd be more than the overhaul though.
Another option is to trade the car in on another 2nd hand car......
anyway, things I gotta weigh up.
David


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## jackieheath (Dec 24, 2008)

Thanks for the update. I will relay this info to my mechanic. I have yet to hear from him. I am still somewhat hopeful he can find something simple and fix it. I will post any info if I get it.


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## asparagii (Jan 5, 2009)

*Re: (jackieheath)*

So the Aamco soft parts overhaul has a 12month/12000 mile warranty. They said realistically, I'll get 80000 miles min. out of this.
So I'm thinking my options are:
1) trade in jetta on another car (don't really want to do this)
2) buy another recon/used transmission and fit it (Aamco said ~$650 would be the cost of installing alone). I may try and do this myself - depends what's involved. Can anyone tell me how long this takes and how hard it is?
3) bit more extreme, but work out how hard it would be to convert car to manual transmission. This is what I wanted in the first instance, but settled on the auto tippy cause I needed a car quickly and liked everything else in the package. So I will price this option - either to get someone else to do it all, or me do some or all of the work myself. Anyone done this before? I'm sure someone would have...







Once installed, I think there's less that can go wrong with a manual.
4) Get Aamco to rebuild the transmission. They'd only give me a price range $2200-2500.
I am going away for 3 weeks so will weigh it all up and deal with it when I come back.
Regards,
David


_Modified by asparagii at 3:46 PM 1-10-2009_


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## audi10021075 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: (asparagii)*

I have the exact same problem and trying to fix it.
Waiting for the part right now from 1stvwparts.
If you read my thread you can see what I did and where I am.


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## asparagii (Jan 5, 2009)

*Re: (audi10021075)*

thx Audi. Wow so many people in the same boat!
I'm a bit lost as to your current position. In Don's thread, you said fluid changes and N283 solenoid replacement didn't do anything. 
Then you found that N281 was out of spec. Is this what you're currently ordering and going to replace? 

David


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## audi10021075 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: (asparagii)*

yes, it should arrive today.
I'll post update sometime tomorrow.


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## pepsiboi212 (Jan 16, 2009)

*Re: '02 1.8T Jetta not shifting gears from 1st, when cold (asparagii)*

my 92 jetta was doing the same thing, but my tranny fluid is low so im putting more in today, but the thing i found works to get it to shift when its cold is to keep it revving up around fifty five hundred rpms for five or ten seconds then it shifts fine, i just dont think this is to good for it but it works for now


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## jackieheath (Dec 24, 2008)

Hey guys, I hope someone has figured this problem out. My car has been in the shop for over 2 weeks now. My mechanic is a very smart guy but hes not used to the vw tranny. I am going to call him tommorow and see if he has made any progress. If so I will post the findings. Best of luck to you all. I hope one of us can figure this out.


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## jackieheath (Dec 24, 2008)

My mechanic says he is going to replace solenoid N91. He says it s 50-50 chance that it will work.


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## asparagii (Jan 5, 2009)

Good luck Jackie. I get home next week, so will have to deal with this.
found some good research info - haven't read yet. 
http://www.volkswagen.msk.ru/i...5_09a
David



_Modified by asparagii at 9:35 PM 1-28-2009_


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## Mikey18T (Aug 5, 2002)

I have the same problem! I've been searching everywhere and couldn't find a thing, thinking I was the only one. I guess there's some comfort knowing others are having the same issue. I had it checked by the dealer and they couldnt' find anything. I brought it to a tranny shop and they too told me it sounded like "Morning sickness". 
The odd thing is, it drives perfectly fine once warmed up. Another odd thing, not sure if it's a coincidence, but a couple of times, I've reset the ECU and it shifted just fine at startup. However this was during the summer so it could have just been the temperature. 
It's killing me! I want to dump the car, but I can't knowing that it has this problem...
PLEASE PLEASE figure this out. I have faith in you guys.


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## jackieheath (Dec 24, 2008)

Hey, my mechanic is raplacing the N92 solenoid. He says there is a 50/50 chance that it will work. I will post on either teusday or wednesday as soon as he gets done with it.


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## audi10021075 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: (asparagii)*


_Quote, originally posted by *asparagii* »_
http://www.volkswagen.msk.ru/i...5_09a

Great link!!!!
Load of information


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## asparagii (Jan 5, 2009)

*Re: (audi10021075)*

From reading the Self-study on VW 09A transmissions (from the Russian site I linked above), I’ve put together this plan of attack for sussing out my problem. Please feel free to constructively critique – I don’t have a lot of mechanical knowledge – though am keen to learn. I also am thinking aloud in this post – so my train of thought may be a little disorganized. 
I believe the most likely area of fault is with hydraulic oil pressure/temp. This is evidenced by the fact that the car works well once warm, but always suffers the problem initially – read whole thread for more info.
All Potential areas of fault I can think of from manual:
•ECU/TCU/engine torque sensor – In vehicles with Electric Accelerator Pedal Control (I have to find out if my car has this) engine torque data is sent to the TCU via the ECU. The TCU tells the ECU when it wants to change gears and the ECU lowers engine torque to allow the TCU to close clutches/breaks at lower pressure, making the gear change smoother – refer p.37. Therefore if there were any problem with the ECU, TCU or engine torque signal, this would manifest in less than optimal gear changes. However I think a fault in this area would be always evident (not only when cold) - agree?
•ATF temperature sensor (G93) – TCU uses ATF temperature data from this sensor to control gear changes. A high shift pressure is used at low ATF temperatures and varied as temp rises. If sensor fails, gearbox performs gearshifts at higher ATF pressures. This data is used at ATF temps. <70 degrees celcius – refer p.41-42. If this was playing up, it could be the culprit – but OBD should monitor this and VW dealer told me no VAG codes (will confirm – I just bought a VAG-COM).
•Solenoids – N88, 89 and 92 are used in 1st gear, but N92 is de-energized to go to 2nd. Possible this’s sticking? But not sure why that wouldn’t continue to be the case once pressure/temp is high – only thing I can think of is the viscosity of the ATF is higher when cold. Refer p.53. Again, could be the culprit – but OBD should monitor this and VW dealer told me no VAG codes (will confirm – I just bought a VAG-COM).
•Gear changes require individual brake/clutch operation (Clutch K2 and brake B2 must close for 2nd gear). There is also an accumulator on each brake/clutch, to dampen closure. If any of these failed, the gear change would be affected. (refer p.19 and 22, 24-25). But I think this would continue to be an issue when ATF warm, not just when cold - agree? Makes me think these are ok and the problem is hydraulic.
•ATF fluid itself – if chemically exhausted, or wrong level, it won’t work as reqd. VW dealer told me fluid level ok – I will confirm.
•ATF pump – this pump moves oil from the sump and transfers it to the v/v body. It is responsible for ATF pressure. Refer p.13. Is this monitored by OBD? 
Most likely areas of fault that I can think of: ATF level/composition, ATF p/p. (This assumes my VAG-COM data confirms what the VW dealer told me about no OBD alarms – ATF temp. sensor ok, engine torque sensor ok, all solenoid v/v’s ok, etc).
Don’t know if all this stuff is replaceable if at fault – eg how hard is it to pull all of the transmission apart if say the fault is with the ATF pump? I just moved countries so don’t have many tools. I don’t mind buying cheap stuff, but won’t be buying crazy priced stuff. I also live in an Apt. complex which has no garage, so they aren’t real friendly with people doing work in the carpark – I have a couple friends with garages and tools though, so might be fine. Also got to work out logistics – only 1 car – how long will this be out of action for if I’m prodding transmission internals?
Plan of attack (in order):
1)check fluid level – if low, top up;
2)check reference resistances – if a problem, determine whether it’s wiring harness or solenoid;
3)check ECU/TCU/engine torque sensor – simple check?
4)ATF oil pump – Simple check?
5)ATF temp sensor – Simple check? Should be monitored by OBD. 
David


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## asparagii (Jan 5, 2009)

well I just scanned car with my new VAG-COM and found a couple alarms.
1) O2 sensor alarm from catalytic converter - if I were a betting man I'd say this was due to me driving it when it was misfiring - I read that may damage the O2 sensors
2)Shift lock solenoid in Tippy!! Now this suprises me as the VW dealer tld me it had no alarms. But I don't trust them - had a previous run in with them. Hard to say whether they were lying or not, but I do know I have only driven the car a couple times since I left their dealership.
Anyway, I cleared all alarms and will check tomorrow if they're re-appeared.
DAvid


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## asparagii (Jan 5, 2009)

*Re: (asparagii)*

repeated the scan 24 hrs later, having driven to and from work. 
catalytic converter alarm not present, but shift lock solenoid alarm back again. So that's def. a problem and needs replacing. From what I understand, this shouldn't be the cause of my problems though - seems to be a safety mechanism only.
One interesting thing worthy of mention is that my VAG-COM crapped out on me multiple times when trying to read bank 05 on the 02 auto transmission control module. Error came up: ‘Session unreliable: too many communications errors to continue’. (I don't have the 4 bank 05 parameters it was trying to read in front of me). VAG-COM seemed to have no problem reading other banks in auto tranny CM. Also performed entire system scan and connected to other system's control moudules no dramas. I will post this in VAG-COM forum for info.
sigh!
regards,
David


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## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: (asparagii)*

David,
The Measuring block 5 happens on my car also. I think it is normal. I just bypass it and go on.


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## jackieheath (Dec 24, 2008)

Great news. Solenoid N92 fixed my little jetta. I hope that this helps some of you.


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## audi10021075 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: (jackieheath)*

was there anything else your mechanic did?
was it just N92?
did your tranny ever went into limp mode?
I am real desperate to fix my tranny, and I don't want to spend $4k to replace it.
Dave


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## jackieheath (Dec 24, 2008)

yes my tranny went into limp mode. it wouldnt get out of first gear until it got warm (about 15 minutes of driving in first). My mechanic said it took 90 psi of air pressure to open the N92 solenoid. He only had to blow into the new one to open it. I did a fluid change before I took it to him and it didnt help at all. He told me that he even screened and reused the old fluid that he drained out to preserve the clutches.


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## audi10021075 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: (jackieheath)*

thanks
maybe there is a hope for me.
if I change N92 then this would be third solenoid change (N281 & N282) for me.


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## jackieheath (Dec 24, 2008)

I hope N92 will help you out. It definitely fixed mine. This thread is pretty much the only info on this tranny subject on the whole web. When I first started searching for info I found next to nothing. I dont know if N92 will fix all trannys stuck in first but trying it beats paying the dealer. Thanks to everyone for all their input.


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## asparagii (Jan 5, 2009)

Glad yours worked out Jackie - thx for update. So you said the VAG scan came up empty right? But the N92 solenoid was still shagged - interesting... wonder why - OBD not working? Or maybe the resistance was fine, but it was stuck mechanically, or perished seal etc?? IDK.....Self study does say that N92 is energised in 1st, but must de-energise to go to 2nd and the whole thing about car working fine with temp/pressure does make problem sound hydraulic. Worth a shot - the one mob I rang up charged $52 a solenoid - a couple of them much cheaper than rebuild.
My project has pretty much come to a standstill. I'm about to be posted off again with work, so my car will spend months in a mate's garage - waiting for me to deal with it when I get back.
I had it booked into a Euro transmission workship near Atlanta (I was sposed to be going there for work this week for a month, but that got cancelled last minute). Plan was to get the soft parts rebuild - they were going to do for $2250. They were helpful people. Told me I could buy the repair manual for 09A from the OEM: Jatco JF506e gearbox - got all info. I found it on web for ~$20, but unfortunately I don't have the time, tools or spare car to get into it at the moment.
I did find the best way to get my car to shift when starting, was to leave it in neutral for ~5 minutes. This was opposed to driving around car parks at 10mph and 3000revs for 10 minutes looking like a goose








DAvid.


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## crawl (Sep 24, 2006)

*Re: (asparagii)*

Count me in







Just got new used Jetta with 84k on the clock and I have similar problem. Although I would not say it shifts a lot better when warmed up. Pulling from the light is still a hassle. 
How much was solenoid repair?


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## jackieheath (Dec 24, 2008)

Total for me was 357.00 I think the solenoid was about 90.00 Also my mechanic reused old dluid since I had just done a change. Good luck. There is a lot of good info in these forums.


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## crawl (Sep 24, 2006)

*Re: (jackieheath)*

thanks. I'm going to local mechanic on Tuesday, will you keep you all posted.


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## 2002 jetta (Feb 17, 2009)

Thank you all! Everyone described the exact same problems I am having with my 2002 v6 Jetta, right down to the fluid change and the uncooperative dealership. My car is at Aamco and they had it narrowed down to the shift solenoid also but did not know which one. I just called and told them to replace the N92. Clearly jetta owners need to stick together! Thanks again, I'll be back


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## crawl (Sep 24, 2006)

*Re: (2002 jetta)*

Mechanic called me today and obviously there was no codes in TCM. His working on other stuff. 
In mean time I need second opinion. 
My car not only does not up shift from 1st, it also has harsh downshifts. Could two solenoids go bad at the same time? Or may by faulty N92 causes rough downshifts?


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## crawl (Sep 24, 2006)

*Re: (crawl)*

Well, I was looking for part numbers and here what I got so far.
For 2002 VW made in Mexico with 5 speed auto transmissions EYP, EEF, ELD, 
GPC, EYN, and GNZ:
09A 325 039 H - Valve Body applies to EYP, GNZ, EEF
09A 325 039 J - Valve Body applies to GPC, ELD, EYN
Valves fit both bodies:
09A 927 331 - Solenoid valve N89 (brawn)
09A 927 331 A - Solenoid valve N92 (green)
09A 927 331 B - Solenoid valve N88 (brawn)
09A 927 331 C - Solenoid valve N90 (black )
09A 927 331 D - Solenoid valve N282 (black )
09A 927 331 E - Solenoid valve N91 (black )
09A 927 331 F - Solenoid valve N283 (white)
09A 927 331 G - Solenoid valve N281 (white)
09A 927 331 H - Solenoid valve N93 (green )
hope helps somebody


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## 96sc3 (Feb 22, 2009)

*Re: (crawl)*

N92 solenoid seems like its the culprit. I hope it is, looking to change that as well. I have the same locked in 1st gear until 1/2 hour of driving problem.


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## JoshRambo (Jun 24, 2006)

*Re: (96sc3)*

Did anyone ever get theirs fixxed? I have been having the same problem. I have to go start my car in the morning and let it run for about 15 minutes so it shifts fine. To me it seems like it is just goign for 2nd to 3rd and sometimes 1st to 2nd. I just got my tax return and was going to take my car in to get looked at.


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## crawl (Sep 24, 2006)

*Re: (JoshRambo)*

I'm waiting for solenoid to come. I'll take it to the shop as soon as I get it. Will keep you posted. 
Btw, mine just gets stack in first and even warm up does not always help.


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## audi10021075 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: (JoshRambo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JoshRambo* »_Did anyone ever get theirs fixxed? I have been having the same problem. I have to go start my car in the morning and let it run for about 15 minutes so it shifts fine. To me it seems like it is just goign for 2nd to 3rd and sometimes 1st to 2nd. I just got my tax return and was going to take my car in to get looked at.

I fixed mine with N92 replacement and so did jackieheath.
I place my money on N92 that it is the problem.


_Modified by audi10021075 at 5:20 PM 3-2-2009_


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## Onearmedmidget (May 3, 2002)

*Re: (audi10021075)*

From the looks of this thread, I guess change the N92 for this problem. Anyone with more success stories?


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## jackieheath (Dec 24, 2008)

N92 did the job for me.


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## Mikey18T (Aug 5, 2002)

Howmuch does something like this go for? Anyone have a contact in NYC, preferably Queens, that can do this? Thanks


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## crawl (Sep 24, 2006)

*Re: (Mikey18T)*

Transmission shop just backed out on me







, now they want a lot more money and it does not make any sense for me. I'm not going to fix my car








Best of luck to everyone on here.
P.S.
I have N92 valve, filter and fluid for sale (PM me for details).
I also have 1.8T 02 Jetta with 84K and broken tranny if anybody needs project car ($3000 OBO) - SOLD localy


_Modified by crawl at 12:49 PM 3-10-2009_


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## rdm128 (Sep 6, 2007)

*SUCCESS!*

After a couple months of frustration searching for a solution to this shifting problem I happened on this thread. I have an '02 Jetta 1.8t w/ 130K miles. I simply love the car and still get better than 30 MPG. 
Similar to everyone else, it started one average morning with a difficult time getting it to shift out of first. After a few minutes of messing with it, things were fine again. A week later it happened again, then more frequently until the car was incapable of 20 MPH.
I was able to 'force' a shift by increasing the RPM's to 6400, but I don't like to do that without a good reason (or at least one that makes me smile instead of grimace). I read other folks who described a problem of very hard shifting 1st to 2nd and was curious if they were shifting at high RPM's.
I continued searching and found many posts of folks having similar issues which resulted in changing their transmission for a mere $3,000 - $5,000. Very disheartening. I still owe the bank $4,000 on my car and I couldn’t afford a repair bill like this or to dump the vehicle. ROCK <- me -> Broken CAR
I next followed some advice from other posts I had found and took the car to my local dealer to 're-flash' the TCM. This sounded like a waste to me, as I had no codes and the way the problem evolved did not seem like a computer failure (gradual instead of sudden). $90 later I confirmed it was a waste.
Ok, so my next swing was going to be changing the fluid as a last ditch effort before having to ‘force shift’ it everywhere I go. I came across this thread and the N92 valve stood out like a beaconing red light. So, I ordered the parts (shout out to Auburn VW – nice folks) and cleared my weekend expecting this to be as big a pain as it sounded.
I ordered the N92 valve (part number posted above), 4 liters of the proper tranny fluid (part number posted in DIY/FAQ), and a tube of VW silicon to seal it back up. 
I followed coolvdub’s walkthrough posted in the DIY/FAQ (thank you tremendously for the time and effort of creating it) and replaced the N92 valve. The entire project took about 4 hours for two guys both fairly handy under the hood with a couple of distractions (fixing a headlight bucket and changing the oil).
One note on changing the fluid. Since the pictures are gone on the how-to for changing the tiptronic fluid, I just read between the lines and followed this procedure.
1.	Drained fluid into pan
2.	Poured into jug with measuring marks (in liters)
3.	After putting everything back together I filled it through the filler with the red ring on front
4.	Added exactly the same amount as was measured as being removed (3.5 Liters)
5.	Started car, let it warm up for a few minutes, ran it through the gears pausing 5 seconds in each one.
6.	Test drove the car
The reason I mention this is that I did not go back and verify the fluid level. There were no apparent leaks before I started, and from everything I’ve read people seem to have very random results when they check anyway. I figured putting in exactly what I took out was going to be close enough.
Please chalk my car up in the success column for resolving the ‘won’t shift from first gear’ problem. I have since put about 500 miles on my car with absolutely no troubles. I would like to say it’s running even better, but it’s always ran so well that couldn’t be true.
THANK YOU COOLVDUB! You just saved me several months of embarrassment from driving my car at 5,000 RPM through school zones with my head ducked down while saving my pennies for a new tranny!
Thank you everyone at VWVortex for all your great communications!
-Very Happy Camper


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## dphoenix (Jan 31, 2008)

*Re: SUCCESS! (rdm128)*

I'm curious...
I'm not having these exact problems, but I do have the same transmission and I am having problems with it shifting (documented in a few other threads). I had the resistances of each solenoid checked, and all were within spec, so the impression I was left with was that, whatever the problem was, it had to be internal. 
But is this actually the case? Can a solenoid still be malfunctioning, even if it's resistance is measuring within spec?
If this were the case, and I could fix this issue with a stupid solenoid, I would be absolutely ecstatic... pretty much everything in the car aside from the tranny is tip top, but it's hard to justify sinking ~$4k in a 7 year old car with 118,000 miles on the clock.


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## LaZyFLiP (May 25, 2005)

*Re: SUCCESS! (dphoenix)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dphoenix* »_I'm curious...
I'm not having these exact problems, but I do have the same transmission and I am having problems with it shifting (documented in a few other threads). I had the resistances of each solenoid checked, and all were within spec, so the impression I was left with was that, whatever the problem was, it had to be internal. 
But is this actually the case? Can a solenoid still be malfunctioning, even if it's resistance is measuring within spec?
If this were the case, and I could fix this issue with a stupid solenoid, I would be absolutely ecstatic... pretty much everything in the car aside from the tranny is tip top, but it's hard to justify sinking ~$4k in a 7 year old car with 118,000 miles on the clock.

All my solenoids were within spec also but after replacing my N92 solenoid, I finally resolved the issue of not being able to shift past 2nd gear. So I guess even though they check out resistance wise they were still mechanically failing? Not sure? But all I know is this finally fixed my problem.


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## zhensr (Jul 8, 2009)

Hi, all,
I have the exact the same problem. I bought the 2003 1.8T Jetta from a person and I did not have the car checked. The car has the transmission problem on the 4th day. I brought to dealer. They asked for $6500 for a new transmission.
Could anyone tell me where I can get the N92 solenoid? I asked the dealer and they do not know about it.


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## LaZyFLiP (May 25, 2005)

*Re: (zhensr)*

I got mine from http://1stvwparts.com. The N92 solenoid is part#: *09A927331A* and the ATF fluid is part#: *G052990A2*.


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## mxrider101 (Jul 26, 2009)

*Re: (LaZyFLiP)*

is this the same on a 98 jetta?? i have the same issue and think i can solve it with the N92 solenoid if it is the same as these newer cars. thanks


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## AustinGT (Jul 4, 2008)

I am at a shop right now with a similar problem. The car ahs been notcibly shiftin from 1-2 and 2-3 and I got in the car this morning and it would not shift out of first for a few minutes. I am goign to let them see if they can figure it out and if not then I guess I will be trying the N92 solenoid. 
Since I will be in there already changing that solenoid is it worth it to change out any others with the noticible shifts from 2-3 as well?


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## 05GLI (Nov 11, 2004)

*Re: (AustinGT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AustinGT* »_I am at a shop right now with a similar problem. The car ahs been notcibly shiftin from 1-2 and 2-3 and I got in the car this morning and it would not shift out of first for a few minutes. I am goign to let them see if they can figure it out and if not then I guess I will be trying the N92 solenoid. 
Since I will be in there already changing that solenoid is it worth it to change out any others with the noticible shifts from 2-3 as well?

I would say no. The N92 should fix it.


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## witecap4u (Feb 23, 2000)

FYI to everyone that comes across this...

If you get your car high enough in the revs, put it in tip mode and it will probably be reading 3rd gear, if you push the tip lever up to shift to 4th, it will shift. 4th gear does not use n92, so you just need to get the vehicle speed up high enough to allow the TCM to think its ready for 4th gear. I've done this on my wife's car a few time, the shift is pretty harsh going from the top of 4th to the bottom of 1th but it does work.
I'll soon be doing the N92 solenoid, just need to figure out the other 2 problems im having so i can take car of them all at once.


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## JosBRATT (Jul 13, 2009)

*Re: (jackieheath)*

just as ASPARAGII has I have an '02 jetta 1.8T with the exact same transmission problem, do you think that I'm gonna have to tear apart the transmission to replace the faulty solenoid? my car is still under warranty but I got a feeling that the joke of a warranty that I have they will tell me that the warranty doesn't cover it and I was just wanting to know if I am facing $2000+ to get a single solenoid replaced. I read on a previous posts that you were able to replace the solenoid yourself for around 350 dollars yourself, could you email me the procedure to [email protected]? I would be willing to try it if it's not too difficult, I have a highly experienced mechanic in my family who's willing to help me with the repairs. I would appreciate any advice you have.


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## mxrider101 (Jul 26, 2009)

*Re: (JosBRATT)*

i believe the $350 in this post was including labor at a shop. the n92 solinoid is around $100 from what i have found. do a search on how to change a n92 solinoid and it comes up with tons of helpful and detailed info. good luck!


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## ViWi (Jul 21, 2009)

*Re: (witecap4u)*

Hello everybody. I'm new at this vwforum, and i hope i can find some wise advice about my loved car. It's a Golf GTi 2002, 1,8T with 5vel tiptronic 75000Km road, and in great shape. a month ago it started with the same troubel i read in many issues in this forum. At morning when the motor is cold, it don't change from 1st gear, until it becomes hot then the shifts occur fine and smooth. And this fact as i read, is not new with 09a gearshift . some facts that i find:
1. with cold motor and car, when i go downhill, the motor goes over 5000rpm, in 1st gear. If the car velocity passes 40 km/h it autom change to 4th gear. If i brake an slowdown under 40 km/h (School area) i have a rough gearchange to 1st gear with high speed rev of the motor. 
2. Wilth cold motor , I can go downhill in neutral position until the car reach 40 Km/h and i fell a smouth pullback, then i pass to D pos and gear shift goes immediatly to 4º gear. 
3. After 5-8min road the car became hot and the problem dissapear, the changes go right the whole day, unless the car rest stopped a couple of hours. The the problem happen again for few minutes on road. 
I've read the gearshift self study manual and learn a lot about automatic gears ( i'm not on mechanics), and talk a lot with my VW mechanics. Here is where i need some help: We can't clarify if we have to change the road speed sensor (no part number allowed!!), the thermal sensor beside, or change the N92 solenoid, or the whole body valve . 
As you all see, is hard to decide 
I live in La Paz a city over 3600 m over sea level, it has something to do the Oxi sensor?
Any idea ?? 
Heeeeeelp, vw gods are going to be bless you


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## 05GLI (Nov 11, 2004)

*Re: (ViWi)*

I had the exact same problem with my last jetta. All I did was change solonoid N92 and change the fluid and it was fine. GL


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## zhensr (Jul 8, 2009)

I have changed N92 solenoid and put everything together. But the car won't start. I think it is because the shifter position may be changed. When I took the shifter cable arm to the transmission gear selector (do not know the exact term here), I changed the gear selector position. I think likely it is the reason. Could anyone tell me when the shifter is in park position, where the gear position should be? It should be turned far right, right?
Appreciate your help.


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## smiley321 (Aug 13, 2009)

*Re: (zhensr)*

Hi all, I was just about to buy a used 2002 Jetta 1.8T with the Tiptronic when I found this thread.
Do you recommend staying clear??
Or is this N92 solenoid the solution to all our ills?
Like any of us, I can't afford the money or frustration of this problem. And I'm not a mechanic at all. Thanks in advance!


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## zhensr (Jul 8, 2009)

Just want to report back that the 2003 Jetta 1.8 T tramsmission is fixed after changing the N92 solenoid.
I could not figure out how to pull the transmission back to give more space. For N92 solenoid, you may not need to do that, but just work in a tighter space to remove the screws.
Here is where I got my N92 solenoid
Makco Distributing, Inc.
4255 Bryson Blvd.
Florence, AL 35630
Their part number is 98423A, the price is about $65 each. For other solenoid, you need to call them and may send them the picture so they can locate the correct parts for you.
transmission fluid $11 per liter
EuroPartsAmerica, LLC
Only thing you need to pay attention is that when you remove the N92 solenoid, make sure you do not let the stud retreat back to the hole. It is a pain to get it out. What I did is to go to autozone to buy the magnetic pickup tool, and get the magnet out and grind it to the size of the screw, use a flat side of a nail to pull the stud out. better watch out when you pull the N92 solenoid.
I want to thank everyone for your sharing here. and I hope this information help someone else.
Best,


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## roger d (Sep 10, 2009)

*Re: (zhensr)*

I have a 2004 Jetta TDI with 5 Speed Tiptronic. 225K miles. Changed Tranny fluid every 50K. It started to do exactly was has beed discussed in the forum. Will not shift out of 1st gear until its warm. Then it works ok. Dealer says it needs a new transmission for 5K.
Well she it not worth 5K in value. Could it just be that same N92 Valve? Any feedback would be helpful.


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## vwjag (Oct 15, 2007)

*Re: (smiley321)*

Well i'm a bit confused cause when i went to the dealer to ask about the n92 solenoind they told me it was actualy the valve body @ $1500????? parts only














whats the deal with that







am i just talking to a vw tech and parts guy that doesnt know what he's talking about. not to comforting to get it svsed there.
does anyone have a break down or picture so i can hopefully prove to these guys that they need to go back to school.


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## sofocu2 (Nov 9, 2009)

*Re: (VW_FAST1.8T)*

01M for $200??? Wut a deal LOL http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## asparagii (Jan 5, 2009)

Wow a lot of people had good luck with N92 ey? Wonder why it doesn't show a code in the scan then?
Just to give everyone an update - I ended up converting my car to a manual! Pretty extreme, but I'd rather drive a manual anyway - better mileage, more reliable and the cost was the same as getting a rebuilt 09A installed. 
Ended up costing me $2500 - as I said getting rebuilt 09A installed was the same price. Don't pay $6500 to a VW dealer - that's criminal. 
Ended up going through VW dealer in Wheeling, VW for the job. A good bloke called Walt did a great job. Couple pointers - I got the 5speed tranny installed and this requires a new ECM (~$700), or living with the check engine light permanently on and no cruise control. Apparently the 4 speed manual conversion can use your existing auto ECM and be reprogrammed - I didn't find this out till too late. I can't buy a used ECM, as the immobilizer needs to be linked to it and VW don't release their immobilizer codes (they did up to 3 years ago, but don't now). I don't use cruise control much and can live with the check engine light on for a while. Some disgruntled Tech may write a program at some point allowing immobilizer code to be pulled - till then I'll wait. 
Never checked the N92 solenoid - prolly would have been a good first step, but I'm happy with the manual anyway. This was beating me up for too long and now good to have increased control and reliability, of an otherwise very nice car!
Regards,
David


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

*Re: (asparagii)*


_Quote, originally posted by *asparagii* »_ Wow a lot of people had good luck with N92 ey? Wonder why it doesn't show a code in the scan then? 

Because the solenoid sticks mechanically. Its not a electrical problem that the computer can "see". If its driven long enough and is sticking bad enough it might trigger codes.


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## SoniCraze (Dec 30, 2005)

Add me to the "when cold not shifting out of 1st, replaced n92 now works great list"








Some notes:
I didnt remove the pan all the way so I didnt pull the engine/tranny back with a tie down. I unbolted it then just sat it back and down, there is enough room to get the n92 replaced without wiggling the pan all the way off. I cleaned off as much old sealant as I could being carefull not to let any fall back into the "guts" then reapplied some new sealant. 
I have zero idea what the torque specs are on the 20 bolts that hold the transmition oil pan on but they snap easily.... ask me how i know


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## Krisbg (Jun 15, 2007)

*Re: (SoniCraze)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SoniCraze* »_Add me to the "when cold not shifting out of 1st, replaced n92 now works great list"









me too


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## Big Dac With Fries (Feb 1, 2002)

*Re: (Krisbg)*

I've marked this thread for future reading and reference.
I'm picking up a '03 Jetta for cheap, on the basis it has the exact problem as described in this thread.
The more I read into it, the more i'm tempted to convert it to manual - which is what I really wanted in the first place.


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## Big Dac With Fries (Feb 1, 2002)

*Re: (Big Dac With Fries)*

I had my N92 solenoid replaced today, as well as a fluid change.
I went on the cheap and used Mobil semi-synth Mercon-V. Seems like the full synthetic stuff is NLA - at least in Toronto it is. Going to drive it for a few weeks, and then do another drain & fill.
So far so good. I'll update this tomorrow, after I let the car sit outside in -20*c.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

*Re: '02 1.8T Jetta not shifting gears from 1st, when cold (asparagii)*

I'm finding lots of folks fixing delayed upshift cold with N92 solenoid. 
I'm gonna post the threads here, and refer future folks to this thread..
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4468503
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4634051

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...uto-Stuck-in-1st-Gear&p=67646892#post67646892




marked

also, here's a couple threads where folks have given good info on changing solenoids.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...To-Change-Solenoids-Large-Photo-Of-Valve-Body

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1521077


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## Big Dac With Fries (Feb 1, 2002)

*Re: '02 1.8T Jetta not shifting gears from 1st, when cold (CoolAirVw)*

One week later, and the problem has not resurfaced.
However - today, I did experience an unusually hard 1-2 shift.
It happened once when I first started driving, and then, never again.
I'll update.


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## Onearmedmidget (May 3, 2002)

*Re: '02 1.8T Jetta not shifting gears from 1st, when cold (Big Dac With Fries)*

Just adding my experience to all the tranny threads I've been keeping track of.
Symptoms: Slipping 1-2, 2-3 and usually bad going 3-2 with hard acceleration. Also when coming to a stop 2-1 I would get a little bump as the tranny shifted to 1. Also weird delay when taking foot off the gas and putting it back on, felt like the torque converter hesitated when locking.
bought all 9 solenoids as a package (359 u.s. online) because I didn't want to figure out which ones were bad as there seemed to be more than one. Installed them and all symptoms are gone. It's like a new tranny. 2-3 is still not as responsive as the other gears but it feels like it did when i drove it off the lot over 7 years ago. The dealership recommended 20K ago that I rebuild the transmission..... lol.
Thanks again CoolAirVW for the DIY and all the useful information.


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## gigi123 (Feb 10, 2010)

*Re: '02 1.8T Jetta not shifting gears from 1st, when cold (Onearmedmidget)*

Where did you get the solenoids?


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## Onearmedmidget (May 3, 2002)

*Re: '02 1.8T Jetta not shifting gears from 1st, when cold (gigi123)*

Called up cobra transmission and had them ship it. Received it in 1 week from Miami to Toronto. Great service. 
http://cobratransmission.com/i...03021


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## asparagii (Jan 5, 2009)

just an update - my manual conversion works great - much happier now and it controls real nice in the snow/ice. Sounds like the N92 would've been a cheap fix - pity that info wasn't available to me at the time - anyway it's all good.
Word of warning for those considering this - the check engine light is always on and cruise control doesn't work. Me an a mate pulled up the engine wiring schematics to try and fix the check engine light - it didn't work.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

Cruise can be made to work and you can get the check engine light off. See the "kill the Wabbit thread" on tdiclub. Gbd posted a pdf on how to do it.


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## meltorment (Jan 20, 2009)

just wanted to add my 09A to the resurrected list. :thumbup:
i was tempted to change out the N92 myself, but opted to have a local shop do instead. not surprising they were familiar with the symptoms. i'd like to give a little shout out to wrench werks here in honolulu. quik turnaround and honest friendly service to boot!


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## boxvid (Aug 17, 2010)

*Same problem....*

Thanks for the great advice! I've been having the same problem for nearly a year now. Only difference is my tranny seems to work better in lower ambient temps. The problem is worst after sitting in the hot sun - often over 100 Farenheit - for a few hours or more. I've been using pretty much the same tricks posted here to pop it into 4th at around 25-30 mph (and >5000 rpms). Will try replacing the N92 as well and will post the results.


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## edgarking (Aug 18, 2010)

*Same Same problem on my AUDI A3 8L*

Hi all
I had the same problem with my A3 (09A tranny)
I already order the N92 from Cobra to HK (Hi guys I'm from HK)
Just few day by TNT EXPRESS

I will keep post to replace the N92.


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## RonanKnows (Jun 2, 2010)

So glad I found this thread. I tried searching for a good guide to replacing the N92 but I couldn't find anything worthwhile. Anyone got a good link they could post/PM me?


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

There's one for 09A solenoid change but he changed the n91 and n281 (I think). All would be the same except for the specific solenoid. 

Its in the FAQ here.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1474034-Automatic-Transmission-DIY\FAQ


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## RonanKnows (Jun 2, 2010)

Thanks a lot, man. I'll replace it and let you know how it goes.


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## 24vMayberry (Oct 5, 2009)

2003 vr6 jetta same problem as nost of you guys no cold shifting/ Well mine got so bad it wont come out of first. N92 stuck open? Well its in the shop now getting the N92 replaced. Waiting on the N92 to be shipped to the shop. Should be done by friday. I will post an update to whether or not it worked. Hands crossed it does!


O yea ordered mine form cobratransmission.com


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## deepamundi (Aug 31, 2010)

hey do u still have the transmission for 1.8t 
i need a tranny for my jetta 
contact me at 661 340 3796 or d[email protected]


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## Andrewj20 (Nov 9, 2009)

*auto*

i know this post is old but i had this problem with 29k on my trans luckly it was under warranty and now 132k and no problem...trans was replaced under warranty. 02 1.8t GTI i belive 09A and mine is a Brazilian car with 6speed axels if anyone cares.


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## volksmech1 (Jan 4, 2006)

marking this for future reference


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## volksmech1 (Jan 4, 2006)

i pulled everything appart and put the front in service mode to gain more room. took it apart while still hot and removed n92 (top drivers side valve) and you could blow through it like you were blowing up a ballon with little resistance at all. installed another valve and put it all togeather and rifilled with fluid and test drove it. all is well. went back and checked the old valve after it had cooled down on my tool box and you couldn't even blow shop air through it from the air compressor.


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## za01vr6 (Apr 1, 2006)

*n92 fixed 1-2, 2-3 but R is still not available until after 10min idle*

The title says it all....

Thanks for the contributors to this thread helping me make the call to dismantle my Sharan to get to the tranny (to rip in to that tip) !!

Shifting from 1 - 2 and 2 - 3 like new.

Any pointer though on the issue with reverse only working after 10 minutes or so driving?

I've also noticed that the car 'jumps' out of 1st when coming to a stop (kinda like a manual box jumping out of gear) when pulling away. Only by shifting to P and then engaging D will the car drive normally.

If I look at the active solenoids in 1st and R I might just as well replace N88 and N89 as well?


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## za01vr6 (Apr 1, 2006)

I bit the bullet and ordered n88 ....

should arrive on Monday, so I'll know by weeks end if all is well


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## za01vr6 (Apr 1, 2006)

*n88 is in ...*

i fitted n88 and put everything together again. The unit that came off the box was extremely brittle - the coil body broke in pieces upon removal.

The car stil does not have reverse when cold, but it kicks in much earlier than before the change when warmng up.

but now there's quite a pronounced flare between 3rd and 4th

I suspect n89 is next on the replacement list ....


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## VWgrinder (May 19, 2009)

Hey guys, I'm experiencing the exact same problems with my '02 GTI. I've been working around it by warming up for 15 minutes or revving up past 5500 rpms like others have noted in this thread. But now even a long warm up won't do the trick so I really need to get this in soon. 

My problem thus far has been finding a mechanic that will do this for me. Very frustrating. Maybe I'm just going about it in the wrong way. What should I be telling them? 

I go in saying I'm having problems with delayed upshift when cold and that it's been well documented on VW sites that a swap of the N92 solves the problem for most people. I have the N92 and some ATF but most guys I've spoken to don't want to mess with it thinking it’s a transmission problem, or telling me I need to replace the whole valve body, etc. Should I just take this into a transmission shop or what? 

Kind of surprised they haven't run into this problem before. Maybe I'm just going to the wrong guys?  DO NOT want to have to take this into the dealer. 

I'm in Atlanta metro area.


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## Big Dac With Fries (Feb 1, 2002)

za01vr6 said:


> The title says it all....
> 
> Thanks for the contributors to this thread helping me make the call to dismantle my Sharan to get to the tranny (to rip in to that tip) !!
> 
> ...


 Sounds like a similar problem with my '03 Jetta. I installed a new N92 to remedy the 1-2 no shift when cold. 

Now (after about 5-6 mos) 2-3 has a "flare" between shifts when it's cold, and reverse doesn't engage when it's cold. After about 2-3 min of driving, everything is golden. 

I think it's time I bite the bullet and order the entire pack of solenoids from Cobra...


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## BigArky (Oct 12, 2010)

*N92 Replaced & Running Great*

Just wanted to say thanks for the great info! My son's 02 Jetta had the same problem.. not shifting from 1st to 2nd when cold. Ordered N92 solenoid from CobraTransmission and picked up the fluid from Autozone (Mobil 1 Synth). We replaced the N92 solenoid this past weekend and now it's shifting as it should. 

Big thanks to coolvdub and sjoback for their DYI guides on the fluid and solenoid changes! Everything went as described... I admit I did have to look up what a pendulum/dogbone mount was though.


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## za01vr6 (Apr 1, 2006)

*still broken ....*

I have now replaced n88, n89 and n92 
:banghead: still issues with: 
- stationary in 1st (after coasting) the box would slip out of 1st into neutral (lever in D). Does it cold or warm. When in tip mode it's less likely to happen .... I can only pull away if I shift to P and then back to 2 or D (to the irk of many a commuter behind me  ). I've noticed that 1st actually engages slowly (i.e. if I wat a few seconds (around 10), the car will pull away as if nothing is wrong - but by then I get more than a few dirty looks). 
- box slips quite a bit between 3rd and 4th, at any box temperature. Maybe the same symptom as 1st gear in previous point?? 
- on highway, car drives OK and shifts great 1-2, 2-3, 4-5. I did notice that, when coasting (i.e. foot poff gas) in 5th, the engine is at normal rpm for the specific road speed. In 4th, the engine goes to idle (box disengaged?), in 3rd the engine is engaged, etc. 
- R only engages after the box temp (via VAG-COM) shows above 40degC 

I have looked at the solenoid description in other posts but cannot relate this to any solenoid that could be faulty. 

there is no codes on the 'box (never had any as well) 

please help me to identify the culprit !!!!:banghead:


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## dphoenix (Jan 31, 2008)

*Replaced all solenoids; better, but still have problems*

Well, after owning this car for ~30k miles (bought it at 100k), I bit the bullet last March and bought the complete pack of solenoids, and had the local independent VW mechanic install them. The car now has 147k miles.

The only thing this did for me, aside from negatively impacting my bank account, was to fix most of the problems I had before the transmission warmed up. I never had delayed upshift problems, but the shifts themselves felt like you were riding with a 3 year old was teaching himself to drive stick (especially in tip mode from 2-3). The colder it was outside the worse the shifts were, to the point that if it was, say, 10 degrees fahrenheit, you'd swear you were leaving a line of mangled transmission parts anywhere you went (until the transmission was warmed up, of course).

So, here's a list of the old symptoms (before replacing solenoids):
-Horrible upshifting when cold (not delayed, just very jerky)
-Unsettling downshifts when cold (like, if someone with a standard transmission used only engine braking to slow the car, without blipping the engine)
-Very hard shift between 3-4 (always)
-Strange 2-3 shift when warm (hard to explain -- jerky, but softly jerky)
-VERY weird shifting pattern when hot, like in stop-and-go traffic (holds gears a lot longer than it should when in D, but will willingly shift when signaled to in Tip mode)
-Odd clunk just before coming to a complete stop as it shifts to first (not audible, more of a feeling like you just ran over a small bump -- makes smooth stops nigh on impossible without shifting to neutral).

After replacing the solenoids, the 3-4 hard shift, 2-3 shift strangeness, weird shifting pattern when warm, and deceleration clunk, all still occur. Cold operation is much more polished, though the transmission now occasionally "flares" between 2 & 3 when cold.

(Some additional notes: the 3-4 hard shift is actually somewhat smooth when the engine and transmission are still really cold (i.e. within the first minute of driving), but quickly worsen; the 3-4 shift is butter smooth when accelerating hard in tip mode ONLY if I make the shift happen between 4k & 5k RPM; I have learned that, to prevent such hard shifts, when shifting from 3-4, I do it in tip mode and let off the gas while the transmission shifts; 4-5 shift has always been the smoothest shift, and this hasn't changed)

So anyway, it seems to me that if your transmission only has issues when cold, the solenoids very well might solve all of your woes. If your problems occur when warmed up, the solenoids probably won't help you.


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## Big Dac With Fries (Feb 1, 2002)

I'm in a very similar boat.

I replaced all 9 solenoids because I could not get reverse to engage when the car was cold, and the car has a 2-3 flare when cold.

Now that the solenoids have been done, reverse engages when cold. The 2-3 flare when cold still happens, and the 3-4 gear change is harder than I remember it. Once it warms up, 3-4 isn't as hard, and the 2-3 flare doesn't happen.

I may do another fluid drain & fill with my next oil change, but i'm not hopeful on that solving the problem.

I was also told that there are software upgrades/revisions for this transmission at the dealer. I may look into that and post my update in here.

Apart from these "issues" I don't drive the car with a heavy foot when cold, and i'm pretty happy with it. I just wish fuel mileage was better...


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## JaBin21 (Oct 2, 2001)

*check for vacuum leaks*

This may sound weird, but check your engine for vacuums leaks. On cold start my 2002 1.8T Jetta would "buck" and shift weird until it was warmed up. During normal driving the 2nd to 3rd gear shift was always very rough.

The problem ended up being major vacuum leaks, specifically from the Y shaped breather hose connected at the top of the engine and the lower hose's found under the intake manifold. After replacing these hoses my cold start issues are gone and my transmission shifts very smooth between 2nd and 3rd.


I used this DIY to check for vacuum leaks:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2692757

This thread shows breather hoses I replaced:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4620058


Also remember to rest your ecu and clear the adaptive transmission memory.


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## chnajo3000 (Nov 12, 2010)

*N92 Works!*

Another to the list! success. fixed and now shifts. I also had another problem with my jetta that i didn't notice anywhere else. It started downshifting itself out of 3 and 2 and reving up to 7+ rpms. N92 fix it as well. took me 14 hrs with a few breaks and problems.... Had alot of trouble with the pan. You need all the wires as FAR BACK as possible. Plus the gasket isn't a lifetime gasket. its just sealant so have some "Just Right" around for the reassemble. Hope this helps. thx to everyone. VW owners need to stick together. This was an amazing thread.


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## akumrazor (Nov 20, 2010)

*Reverse dont work in cold, it work after 10 minutes of warming*

The reverse in my jetta 1.8T trip don't work in cold. what solenoids can i change for resolve the problem?
N92,n88 and n89 or i need change the 9 solenoids?

where can i buy only a one solenoid and how i ask for it?

Regards


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## elchihuaz (Dec 21, 2010)

*One more happy 09A*

One more happy 09A to the success list with the replacement of N92 solenoid.

Related parts: 

New N92 Solenoid.
3 ATF Quaker Multi Synt.
Loctite RTV 598 Silicone.

*Tnks:*

VWvortex people within this thread.
John from Cobra Transmission for N92 supply and customer service.


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## ktm250 (Sep 3, 2009)

I had the same problem with hard shifts and not shifting out of 1st gear when cold. I replaced all 9 solenoids from cobra transmission and refilled with Amsoil Synthetic ATF. I did this at 187,000 km's and it now has 202,000 and still running great. One other note is I was only getting an error of implausable signal from my vag but no cel. I actually tested the old solenoids that I took out with a multimeter but couldn't find fault with them??? Not sure why but they were definitely faulty. Anyway, just my 2 cents.


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## DeepInsouthtexas (Dec 29, 2010)

*04 Jetta*

I have an 04 Jetta that is having the same shifting problems. It is also a 1.8T. Would it use the same parts as listed on this thread for the 02 and 03 Jetta?

Thanks


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

DeepInsouthtexas said:


> I have an 04 Jetta that is having the same shifting problems. It is also a 1.8T. Would it use the same parts as listed on this thread for the 02 and 03 Jetta?
> 
> Thanks


 
Yes. I would suggest changing all the solenoids.


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## JETTA20021.8TTIPTRONIC (Nov 3, 2010)

*Shifting problem 90% of the times*

6-months ago mine 2002 Jetta 1.8T Tiptronic started showing some shifting problems when 1-2 and 2-3 and little bumps as the tranny shift to 1st, just seconds before stop. The colder the weather the worst the problem and got better after runnning for a while. Going up on a hill while waiting for a green light I must keep the "break-on" otherwise I start going in reverse. Except this reverse issue all other stuff happen 90% of the time, 10% is OK. 

Is there any logical relationship between the shifting/reverse problem and the possible solenoid N92 solution? 

I really will appreciate your comments.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

Your transmission has no function to prevent rolling backwards on a hill. This is not a trans problem.


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## icebeta (Jan 26, 2011)

All problems sound similar to one i'm having with my 01 gti. has anyone had problems with engine stalling when cold and trying to engage either drive or reverse? The annoying shifting problems almost all seem to be present. Also, car always feels sluggish coming off a stop.once it starts rolling it's ok but feels a bit like tranny slip initially.


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## wolfsburgfemme (Mar 28, 2011)

*replacing n92 solenoid fixed my shifting problem!!!!! you guys rock!*

thank you! thank you! thank you! to anyone and everyone who posted the n92 solenoid fix for shifting problems when jetta is cold! my 03 wolfsburg has 190,000 miles and runs like a new one. this winter i started having the shifting problem when my car was cold. if i did not let it warm up for 10 minutes it would not shift from 1st to 2nd. my mechanic originally got a code for the transmission temp sensor and he changed it. turned into a chore since the temp sensor is part of the transmission harness. this fix did nothing to change the shifting problem. took it back and it came up with no codes at all. did not know what else to try. i love and trust my mechanic and refused to take it to a dealer just to have them tell me i needed a new transmission. thats when i found vwvortex. i printed out all of your advice and took it to my mechanic and asked if he was willing to try the N92 fix. he was and im off and running! gonna try to get to 300,000 miles now!! you guys rock! thanks!


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## 1973bug (May 7, 2011)

*2002 jetta tiptronic.*

My jetta is stuck in first gear... The malfunction light is on and the torque converter makes a whining noise... Help


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## [email protected] (May 9, 2011)

*the new n92 solenoid made me happy again*

Hello,

I had the problem also that with a cold motor the gear didn't shift from 1/2 to higher gear. Only after 15 min. with warm engine there was no problem. Also tried with max rpm full gas, it worked (this was a tip in this threat). So I thought I had the same problem like a lot of people here. So I replaced the N92 solenoid this weekend. IT WORKED ! All my problems are over. THANKS
The n92 was kosting about 70 euro. Not much because a renovated gear inc working will cost about 1500 euro.

Thanks for the tip, it helped me a lot

Grunneger (NL) Ford Galaxy 2004 automatic transmission


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## DIZILUBBER (May 15, 2011)

My second post only to thank you kind folks. I was panic struck when I became a victim of N92. Was on a trip and from motel no gear but R and 1. No shift. Who on I-95 knows diesels more/less a vw. I had money gremlins dancing in my head. My beloved 04 TDI 186K is biting the dust and I need this car. Never changed the no muss no fuss forever sealed unit for oil change. Not necessary, Yeah sure. Learned that fable too. At least after it kicked in, and drove perfectly I noted the cool had something to do with this. I searched and you guys were on with a real TIPTRONIC 101 course. 

You folks gave me peace that at least I won't have to drive 800 miles at 20 mph and 3000rpm. 

Bless you and I will be changing that oil just to start the purge process until I can afford the whole solenoid harness. If I go to that trouble, May as well catch the next gremlin. What takes you folks 4 hours will take me 4 days. I hate working on cars although I can. Too old for that now but too broke not to attempt.

Luv ya all. May stick around a bit. Lynn (I'm a guy) (I know, Alice Cooper has the same problem)


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## jpadilla2 (Apr 10, 2011)

*gasket or sealant needed when reinstalling transmission pan?*

I was wondering if anyone used a gasket or some sort of sealant on the transmission pan when they reinstalled it. If so, what kind and what was the part number.


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## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

jpadilla2 said:


> I was wondering if anyone used a gasket or some sort of sealant on the transmission pan when they reinstalled it. If so, what kind and what was the part number.


Not knowing, I ordered a gasket when I got my solenoids from cobratransmissions.com. Found out that VW doesn't use a gasket, so I just used silicone sealant when I put it back on. Make sure to get both surfaces clean & oil free. Gasket P/N from Cobra was 98301, but you shouldn't need it (must be used on the same trans from Mazda, LR, Jag ...)


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## jpadilla2 (Apr 10, 2011)

Thanks for the response Charlie! Did you change out all nine solenoids? How tuff was it? Appears to be pretty limited access. Im only going for N92. Hoping it fixes my "not shifting out of first when cold" problem. Thanks again.


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## Big Dac With Fries (Feb 1, 2002)

If you pull the front end into the "service position" you should have enough room - If you want more, pull the front clip off.

I replaced the N92, which fixed my problem. Then, 5-6 months later, I wound up replacing all 9 because I lost reverse when cold.

If you plan on keeping the car, I would suggest you do all 9.


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## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

jpadilla2 said:


> Thanks for the response Charlie! Did you change out all nine solenoids? How tuff was it? Appears to be pretty limited access. Im only going for N92. Hoping it fixes my "not shifting out of first when cold" problem. Thanks again.


I got the set of 9, replaced 8 of 9. (Last one was behind a wiring harness and it was getting late, so I didn't change that one. It was not testing bad, and I still have it in case I need to change it in the future). Set of 9 is much cheaper than getting them one-by-one. 

I didn't put the front end into service position. If you have done that before and know what you are doing that may be a faster way, but I had just gotten the car so I followed the "09A solenoid change howto" and it went fine. Toughest part for me was getting the pan back on, there is a stinking vent tube that makes it tight. Hint: put the silicone on the tranny surface, not the pan; that way you won't smear silicone on the valve body trying to maneuver the pan into place :facepalm:


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## jonjmac (Jul 26, 2011)

*I am having the same problem - might be slightly different... Need some opinions!*

I am also having trouble with the shifting on a 2002 1.8T 09a. I think mine shifts out of first - it goes past 5000 RPM at about 20mph or so - the Vagcom shows that I am in 3m gear, and I can get it to shift into 4th if I race the engine and let of the gas etc... I just hate doing that. Once in 4th it will shift nicely into 5th. Not getting any transmission codes, but I am getting a few engine codes.... 17705, 16891, 16684, 16885, 17544, 16687, and 16686. I also lose communication with the transmission while driving it. It will come back if I try to go to a certain block, show some data, and then lose communication again. 

Here is my main question... First I am willing to try to change n92 - sounds like a cheap fix to a potentially very expensive problem..... Should I change them all? Gets a little more expensive, but looks like a fair amount of work, why do it twice?

Second, solenoid change - does it sound like it will fix my problem? 

Wish I had more history - I just bought this car at auction. I don't know if the symptoms started out like others on this thread. 

Any advice would be appreciated!
Jon


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## radlynx (Jan 4, 2007)

How much did it cost you to change all the solenoids?




Big Dac With Fries said:


> If you pull the front end into the "service position" you should have enough room - If you want more, pull the front clip off.
> 
> I replaced the N92, which fixed my problem. Then, 5-6 months later, I wound up replacing all 9 because I lost reverse when cold.
> 
> If you plan on keeping the car, I would suggest you do all 9.


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## Ralph c (Dec 29, 2011)

*I'm having the same problem*

I have to wait 15 min before my car will shift 
Out of first but after that it's shift fine 
Took to to a shop and they are not finding any codes
Should I replace the n92 anyways. Because if this don't 
Work I'm just going to trade it in.


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## bjohns86 (Nov 7, 2011)

RadLynx,

Whay would you replace all of the solenoids? I can see it if it is because it is cheaper as a set or that you just want to throw parts at it to solve a problem, but many people replace the N92 solenoid and don't know what it really does. The fellow you quoted did not diagnose the problem and was bitten 6 months later. This may or may not fix your problem, but diagnosing the issue will increase your success rate and save you money, though it often takes more time. Just food for thought.

Ralph c,

Why are you replacing N92? If you are just having a problem with the 1-2 upshift and not the downshift or any other shift than I would dig deeper. Do you want to diagnose this or just move on to the next option? The N92 energizes in 1st and de-energizes in 2nd. You will likely never find an on/off solenoid plug during exhaust (de-energized); more often when it comes time to seat and charge a circuit. Do you just get no 1-2 upshift until warm/hot or does the 1-2 shift slip? If you really get into the throttle, will that cause a 1-2 upshift when cold? Any other shift complaints? 

Good Luck All!

Brad


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

Ralph c said:


> I have to wait 15 min before my car will shift
> Out of first but after that it's shift fine
> Took to to a shop and they are not finding any codes
> Should I replace the n92 anyways. Because if this don't
> Work I'm just going to trade it in.


yes, your problem is probably caused by the n92. You should probably change them all.


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## Big Dac With Fries (Feb 1, 2002)

radlynx said:


> How much did it cost you to change all the solenoids?


I'd have to check my credit card records, but I remember this much. Buying 1 (N92) solenoid from the dealer was more than 50% of what the kit of 9 cost me.

If I had to do it all again, I'd replace all 9 off the bat.

The only reason why I didn't do so in the first place, was my reluctance to spend money on a solution I wasn't 100% on. If the N92 replace didn't fix the problem, I was going to do a manual swap.

So far it's been 2+ years, and I'm still pleased with the results. The only problem that still exists is a "flare" between 1-2 shifts when the transmission is cold and under heavy throttle. The car has paid itself off , so I'm comfortable with living with that. 

This thread (and it's contributors) are a wealth of information. Read the posts, educate yourself and save money!!


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## Ralph c (Dec 29, 2011)

*Ralph c*

Getting my n92 replaced I'll let I will let u ppl know if it's works.


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## Ralph c (Dec 29, 2011)

*Ralph c*

It took my car 15 min to shift out of first
I just had them replace the n92 and 
All the shifting problems are gone so the n92 worked
For my vw vr6. Good luck ppl


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## o2bad455 (Aug 22, 2003)

Great thread! A friend's '02 Jetta 1.8T Tiptronic (EYP code) won't shift out of 1st in D, no matter what temp. It can be manually shifted from 1st to 2nd in Tip mode, but just flares in higher indicated gears. Thus, it can only be driven in 1st, 2nd (where it feels about normal) or Reverse (also seems normal). Vag-Com TCU scan showed: 

2 Faults Found:
01166 - Engine Torque Signal 
16-10 - Signal Outside Specifications - Intermittent
00652 - Gear Monitoring 
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

Since it's not temperature dependent, I'm assuming it's probably more than solenoids. Anything else I should check before biting the bullet on a used trans?


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

o2bad455 said:


> I'm assuming it's probably more than solenoids. Anything else I should check before biting the bullet on a used trans?


The solenoid can stick solid and if this happens then you end up with "no upshift" instead of "no upshift cold". Just fixed one like this last week.

Your codes are irrelevant. The 00652 is probably caused by the solenoid sticking, but there's no way to know conclusivly without trying a solenoid.


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## evadivva (Feb 21, 2012)

*Replaced n92 - other shift problems*

Hi,

I have an '02 Jetta 1.8t automatic. I replaced the n92 solenoid which fixed my "cold start" problem. Everything ran smoothly for about two weeks. Now I am having other shifting problems? While driving, the car won't shift from 2-3 or 3-4 smoothly. It almost "feels" like I am trying to drive while in neutral. This happened on a highway which was very dangerous. I kept having to pull over, put the car in park, and then drive. 

Could this be a problem with the other solenoids? Should I replace all 9 solenoids?


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## byeh (Mar 29, 2007)

*Same issue...*

Great Thread! ! 

Its really great to see the history of responses and collective experiences pooled here. 

I experienced the EXACT same issue here with my 02 1.8T (no shift from 1st when cold). Had a transmission shop check it out and change the fluid and the problem is still with me (less though since the weather has warmed up). It typically happens on cold starts in the early morning or evening after the car has sat and cooled off. 

Not looking forward to the recommendation that I got from a paid online answer website that I turned to in exasperation (here is their answer): 

ANSWER: "Am pretty sure there are trouble codes stored in the trans module for a trans temperature sensor more then likely this is the cause , the trans sensor is built into the coil strip harness in side the trans you will need to remove the trans and split the trans case to replace this harness where the trans sensor is built into , most customers just replace the trans with a used unit because it is a lot of labor and $$ to do this job that needs to be done by trained professional . I hope this helps." 

Then I asked how much it would potentially run: 

ANSWER: "Trust me i know the issue i recommend a vw shop to check this they should charge you a diag fee of about $125 and for the job your looking at much more about $4000.00 but i recommend you find a used unit and replace it that way about $2200.00 . I hope all this has helped." 

- ! yikes !!!: 

QUESTION FOR YOU GUYS: 

1. Does the above make sense about the "transmission sensor in the coil strip harness" ? 

2. Should I just go with the complete solenoid replacement set as it seems to be working for many of the forum members?? If so how much would labor on this typically run?


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## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

byeh said:


> "Am pretty sure there are trouble codes stored in the trans module for a trans temperature sensor more then likely this is the cause , the trans sensor is built into the coil strip harness in side the trans you will need to remove the trans and split the trans case to replace this harness where the trans sensor is built into , most customers just replace the trans with a used unit because it is a lot of labor and $$ to do this job that needs to be done by trained professional . I hope this helps."
> 
> QUESTION FOR YOU GUYS:
> 
> ...


Yes there may well be codes stored for the transmission. An independent VW shop should be able to scan it for you and give you the exact codes, or find someone local with VAG-Com to do it for beer or pizza. A bad temp sensor would trigger a code, but I've not heard of that causing any shifting issues. 

Did the trans shop measure any pressures? Report any codes?

But it is also quite possible to have shifting problems that do not trigger a code. These may or may not be solved by a set of solenoids. My set of 9 solenoids was about $360 online, but I installed them myself so I can't help with shop labor estimates. IMHO, and especially if you are paying for shop labor, do all 9 solenoids if you decide to open it up, not just one. You do not need to remove the tranny to change the solenoids; see the howto for details. Worst case, print out the howto and show it to an independent VW shop to get a labor estimate.


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## byeh (Mar 29, 2007)

Charlie_M said:


> Yes there may well be codes stored for the transmission. An independent VW shop should be able to scan it for you and give you the exact codes, or find someone local with VAG-Com to do it for beer or pizza. A bad temp sensor would trigger a code, but I've not heard of that causing any shifting issues.
> 
> Did the trans shop measure any pressures? Report any codes?
> 
> ...


Thanks! I'm going to do that and give the printouts to them. - It seems to shift fine now - but I do notice some slight sluggishness; I have the feeling I'm going to have to ask him to do the solenoids eventually. - Thanks for the advice!


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## M. Sanchez (Feb 17, 2012)

*N92 in 09A*

VW Golf 1.8T 2002
Transmission 09A
Car was not able to shift from 1st – 2nd unless temperature hits 190 degrees or increasing the RPM above 5000.
This weekend I changed the N92 valve and it fixed the problem, it is easy to change because the pictures and advises helps a lot.
I used 4 liters of LiquiMoly ATF III (#2034) recommended by a VW autoparts dealer I did also measure the liquid after drain the fluid.
Just a recommendation the stud that holds N92 can go inside the valve body at the time to remove it and install the new one, be patient and do it carefully better it could be better if there is some one that holds the stud once you are installing it.
Thanks to everyone takes their time to posting.


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## cowboymatt (Mar 3, 2012)

*similar issue*

wife and i purchased a 02 jetta with the vr6 2.8L and are haveing similar issues. wanting to know if you all think the n92 solenoid will solve our problem. 

Trans will act as if its in neutral when slowing to a stop sign or light and when slowing to take a corner such as a country road intersection where no stop is required. if you take the shifter to neutral and then back to drive it will reengage or if you step on the gas it will rev up and jerk very hard when it decides to reengage on its own. it seems that it does it more in warm weather (50 degrees f and above). when cold car acts normal. also seems to have issues with ignition coils failing. car has 110k on it could it be possible the coils have not been replaced and are just giving up? or are they potentially part of my troubles as well? check engine light is on presently.

thank you all for information and help


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## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

cowboymatt said:


> Trans will act as if its in neutral when slowing to a stop sign or light and when slowing to take a corner such as a country road intersection where no stop is required. if you take the shifter to neutral and then back to drive it will reengage or if you step on the gas it will rev up and jerk very hard when it decides to reengage on its own. it seems that it does it more in warm weather (50 degrees f and above). when cold car acts normal.


Checking the ATF level would be first on my list.



> also seems to have issues with ignition coils failing. car has 110k on it could it be possible the coils have not been replaced and are just giving up? or are they potentially part of my troubles as well? check engine light is on presently.


Go to the VW website and put in your VIN to see if there are any open 'campaigns' for your car. But coils go bad all the time, so they could still be the (misfire) problem. Another common problem is misfires coming from old and cracked coil wiring harness. But no, misfires do not cause shifting issues. 

[Edit: that's my 1.8T bias showing; not sure if VR6s have the same coil/harness issues]

Have the car scanned and write down the exact info for the returned codes. A good scanner such as VCDS will return codes from the TCM too, if there are any, while generic OBD2 scanners do not.


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## mpuetz (Mar 5, 2012)

*Question re. replacing solenoids & reverse*

Hello,

I had the same problem (VW GTI 337 2002, 1.8T) and replacing the N92 solved it. Now when my engine is cold the car will not shift into reverse. Did replacing all of the solenoids solve this problem for you?

Many thanks,
Michelle



I replaced the N92, which fixed my problem. Then, 5-6 months later, I wound up replacing all 9 because I lost reverse when cold.

If you plan on keeping the car, I would suggest you do all 9.


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## Big Dac With Fries (Feb 1, 2002)

mpuetz said:


> Hello,
> 
> I had the same problem (VW GTI 337 2002, 1.8T) and replacing the N92 solved it. Now when my engine is cold the car will not shift into reverse. Did replacing all of the solenoids solve this problem for you?



Yes - replacing all 9 solenoids fixed the "no reverse when cold" problem.


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## MukVW (Mar 13, 2012)

I just bought a 2002 Jetta 1.8t last night and I have the same 1 to 2 upshift problem. Can anyone point me to a good service manual with electrical diagrams for this vehicle? To be honest I have never worked a VW before much less owned one I have always been Honda (20 year Master Tech). Any info would be greatly appreciated.


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## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

MukVW said:


> I just bought a 2002 Jetta 1.8t last night and I have the same 1 to 2 upshift problem. Can anyone point me to a good service manual with electrical diagrams for this vehicle? To be honest I have never worked a VW before much less owned one I have always been Honda (20 year Master Tech). Any info would be greatly appreciated.


You want the Bentley manual, either paper or CD version. But it doesn't cover automatic transmissions at all, except for basic removal and troubleshooting. 

For your upshift problem, read the FAQs linked to in the sticky post at the top of this forum, and use the forum search feature as well. There is a lot of good info buried in here over the years, but it's somewhat hard to get to. If you have more questions just post back, but doing a little basic reading/searching first is always appreciated. Assuming you have an 09A tiptronic, google "ssp 232 tiptronic", and you will find a Self Study Program PDF with good background info on the way the 09A works.

Pay attention to the solenoid change how-tos in this forum, sounds like you will need it soon enough.


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## (Batman (Sep 22, 2011)

My 01 1.8t jetta does that same thing. What i've discovered is that if you start out in tiptronic. shift through first, second, and third. Then you can pop back into D and the car shifts just fine. This works 90% of the time. 

Sometimes tiptronic hesitates a little, but it always seems to go through if you do it a few times. 

I will definitely be looking into that solenoid though

Thank you for the information. 

I truly appreciate this thread.


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## byeh (Mar 29, 2007)

byeh said:


> Thanks! I'm going to do that and give the printouts to them. - It seems to shift fine now - but I do notice some slight sluggishness; I have the feeling I'm going to have to ask him to do the solenoids eventually. - Thanks for the advice!


- UPDATE - Kept driving with the slugishness "wait for it to warm up" trick - and two days ago it absolutley would not come out of 1st gear. (totally undrivable) - no amount of letting it warm up works. Ordered a set of new solenoids and am having them put in - will keep you guys posted to the results after the solenoid set replacement.


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## radlynx (Jan 4, 2007)

did you try the manual mode as suggested here? it might work for the meantime.



byeh said:


> - UPDATE - Kept driving with the slugishness "wait for it to warm up" trick - and two days ago it absolutley would not come out of 1st gear. (totally undrivable) - no amount of letting it warm up works. Ordered a set of new solenoids and am having them put in - will keep you guys posted to the results after the solenoid set replacement.


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## Big Dac With Fries (Feb 1, 2002)

radlynx said:


> did you try the manual mode as suggested here? it might work for the meantime.


Manual mode didn't work for me.

After it warmed up, it worked, as well as in regular mode.

Come to think of it, that may have been the only time I've driven the car in Tiptronic mode!


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## byeh (Mar 29, 2007)

*Update -*

Just picked up the car from transmission shop. Had all of the solenoids replaced and the fluid changed. Seems to have fixed the problem completely (though there is a bit of sluggishness at low speeds between Gear 2-3) - This is totally consistent with other vortex users posts. BTW: the tiptronic shifting workaround did not work for me at all. 

mechanic at the transmission shop seemed to think it was something else like the secondary clutch or anything that would require 2K or a rebuild. I was adamant to try the solenoids first. 

Well this seems to have fixed it for now. Cost 1K for parts and labor ( I could have saved a lot of cash by doing the work myself but I don't have the time). I hope it holds up. The car (02' 1.8T GLS wagon) is not inspiring confidence... only 80K on the mileage and I have taken very good care of this car..no modifications or hard driving ...still it seems that around 60K almost all of the engine components failed one after another sensors, vacuum lines, ignition coils, crank sensor thermostat etc.... 

Thanks Guys & 
Hope this car has a few more years of life left. Sigh.


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## tjjoiner (Jul 25, 2012)

I've got an '02 Jetta 1.8t with automatic/tiptronic transmission. 

Yesterday morning, around 10:30 or so, my wife and I went shopping. I started the car, backed out of the parking spot, and began to pull out of the driveway. The transmission wouldn't shift out of 1st and the car kind of jerked and lurched while revving kind of high (3,000+ rpm). I parked it, checked the emergency brake, gave it another go, and things were fine the rest of the day. 

Today, the same situation. I was leaving for work, backed out of my parking spot and began to drive out of the lot when I noticed the same issue. It wouldn't shift up, lurching and jerking, revving over 3k rpm, etc. This time, I pulled over, turned the car off, restarted, and it seemed fine. 

If it means anything, our parking spots are on a slight incline. I've had the car since July 24th (about 2 weeks). The previous owner took the Jetta to a Castrol express lube. Window decal shows it was due back in June or at 130,xxx miles (currently has 129,9xx). I've also got OBD codes P0171 and P0420 and am waiting on the money to get those taken care of. Got to get my wife's steering and transmission issues taken care of first. It just started doing this yesterday. 

It sounds like I'm having the same problem everyone else has had. I'll put that N92 solenoid at the top of the check list. 

Any other thoughts, ideas, suggestions?


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

Change them all is my thoughts ideas and suggestions.


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## tjjoiner (Jul 25, 2012)

*Video*

Good Morning, All -- 

Here's a video I took this morning as I was leaving for work. I figured I could show you guys what's going on a lot better than I can tell you, and maybe someone can definitively say "Yes, that's exactly the problem." Pardon any mess you see. I'm currently stripping the soft touch from the interior, so you may see bits and pieces of my interior missing. As for the engine light in the video (last checked 7/24/2012), it's a code P0171 and P0420. I don't have a VAG-COM, nor can I afford one, so P codes are the best I can do, but I'm pretty sure at least one of the codes was tripped by the fact that the upper and lower breather PCV hoses are non-existent. I'll be replacing those soon. Transmission problems come first. 

[video]http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v343/teejofca/Jetta/?action=view&current=02JettaTransProb.mp4[/video]


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## amagu (Aug 13, 2012)

*Re n92*

Pls add me to the N92 fan club ; ) Many Many thanx to coolvdub for your excellent walk though and pics, I had the same problem with my 2002 auto ford galaxy. Car drives like a dream now ; ) A little tip from me though, as i thought i had nothing to lose ( was gonna scrap this if this didnt work ) couldnt afford a new or recon box. The vent tube that makes this job a pain, is just that, a vent tube. I cut about an inch off it with a dremel tool. makes re-assembly a lot easier, no detrimental effects, just make sure you dont leave any rough edges or debis in the pan.

Many thanks COOLVDUB you are a STAR mate  :wave:


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## tjjoiner (Jul 25, 2012)

The tranny stuck twice yesterday, once in the morning as it has been doing the past week or so and then again at 4:30 PM when I was heading home from work. After giving a little gas and revving high, it shifted and was fine the rest of the day. Fast forward to this morning when I was leaving for work... No problems. Odd, huh? Guess I unstuck the solenoid(s) and they haven't restuck yet.

I was thinking that, before I dive in and start replacing solenoids, I should check them first, at least electronically (I know they can test OK electronically but still stick/fail mechanically). I've read that you can test them using the connector pins of the TCM. That's in the engine bay, passenger side, against the firewall, isn't it? How do I access it?


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

tjjoiner said:


> The tranny stuck twice yesterday, once in the morning as it has been doing the past week or so and then again at 4:30 PM when I was heading home from work. After giving a little gas and revving high, it shifted and was fine the rest of the day. Fast forward to this morning when I was leaving for work... No problems. Odd, huh? Guess I unstuck the solenoid(s) and they haven't restuck yet.
> 
> I was thinking that, before I dive in and start replacing solenoids, I should check them first, at least electronically (I know they can test OK electronically but still stick/fail mechanically). I've read that you can test them using the connector pins of the TCM. That's in the engine bay, passenger side, against the firewall, isn't it? How do I access it?


What your thinking about doing would probably be a waste of time. You should change the solenoids.


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## tjjoiner (Jul 25, 2012)

CoolAirVw said:


> What your thinking about doing would probably be a waste of time. You should change the solenoids.


Change them all and wait until later to replace my PCV hoses or try just the N92 and get the hoses as well?

*EDIT:* Or convince my wife that I need all of it and ride the couch for a little while?


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## 2004gls (Sep 25, 2012)

My 2004 Jetta GLS 1.8T exhibits the same shifting problems when cold and I'd like to get my solenoids replaced. Every shop I've spoken with acts like I'm crazy and lectures me about getting information from the Internet instead of trusting a mechanic.  Can anyone recommend a shop within a couple hours drive of Evansville, Indiana that can perform the work? :banghead:


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## and001 (Sep 27, 2012)

*Same issue but different??*

Just bought a 03 jetta VR6 and have driven it for a whopping 5 miles:facepalm: Long story of why it was a limited test drive at slow speeds, but once I got it on the road the same shifting into second issue happened. I drove it for a few miles and parked it, so I haven't tried it at different temps or anything. Btw, this is my first vw automatic. So I take it to a tranny shop, and left it over night. I found and read the posts and success stories, but my hopes that it would be a simple fix were crushed when they told me the fluid was at a good level but smelled burnt. They said there was a noise inside the tranny and it would be $750 to diagnose. I mentioned the N92 solenoid and he assured me that changing it wouldnt do anything for an overheating tranny issue and that it would be throwing $ away. My dilemma is that if I pay $750 to diagnose I wouldn't be able to afford a rebuild or whatever they say is the issue, so I might as well just sell the car and take my loss.. opinions??


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

and001 said:


> Just bought a 03 jetta VR6 and have driven it for a whopping 5 miles:facepalm: Long story of why it was a limited test drive at slow speeds, but once I got it on the road the same shifting into second issue happened. I drove it for a few miles and parked it, so I haven't tried it at different temps or anything. Btw, this is my first vw automatic. So I take it to a tranny shop, and left it over night. I found and read the posts and success stories, but my hopes that it would be a simple fix were crushed when they told me the fluid was at a good level but smelled burnt. They said there was a noise inside the tranny and it would be $750 to diagnose. I mentioned the N92 solenoid and he assured me that changing it wouldnt do anything for an overheating tranny issue and that it would be throwing $ away. My dilemma is that if I pay $750 to diagnose I wouldn't be able to afford a rebuild or whatever they say is the issue, so I might as well just sell the car and take my loss.. opinions??


I would assume 750 is the charge for disassembly and inspection. When they get it apart they are gonna hit you with a whopping charge for rebuild. Better be prepared for that. 

You should go up and have them demonstrate the noise since you didn't say you heard it. 

Also you should get a 2nd opinion on the "burnt fluid". They will always say that. sometimes maybe the fluid is just dark and needs to be changed but they say, "fluids burnt" since they have a predisposition to selling you a rebuild, since it lines their pockets better.

Or maybe you should just go get the car and drive is some more. Drive it several times to see if it truley "wont upshift cold" and works fine warm. If so and you dont feel any other problem warm, then maybe you should try solenoids anyway. Also listen for thier noise also of course.


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## and001 (Sep 27, 2012)

CoolAirVw said:


> I would assume 750 is the charge for disassembly and inspection. When they get it apart they are gonna hit you with a whopping charge for rebuild. Better be prepared for that.
> 
> You should go up and have them demonstrate the noise since you didn't say you heard it.
> 
> ...



I'm picking it up today and driving it more so I can see what other behaviors/noises I get.. I'll take a video and post it too, but I have a strong feeling your right, and hoping it really doesn't need a rebuild, hate to take a loss on it.. thanks!


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## Liquid5n0w (Nov 28, 2012)

My 2004 Jetta 1.8T GLS has a rough shift into 4th when it's cold that has gotten a lot worse in the past week to the point where it won't go into 4th at all anymore.

UPDATE: Also refuses to shift into 1st while cold. Seems to be very likely a problem the N92 Solenoid.

Since she bought the car about 6 months ago it, we have had to push the break hard to get to it to stay still at a light. We just started putting it in neutral.

Since I've been reading the self study guides, I've realized that this is not normal at all.

To me it seems like atleast 2 solenoids are bad, and there is no real error codes to speak of, but I haven't scanned it with VAG-COM.

I am a computer tech, and I'm comfortable doing this kind of repair, but we don't have the tools or a heated garage. Might be able to get my brother to do it, but he doesn't have a garage to do it in, but atleast he has the tools.

How much should the labour be for this kind of job? 4-5 hours? Will a garage let me bring my own parts to replace it? Should I try to do this in a driveway in freezing weather in Canada?

Note: Made a thread for my issue, please respond there: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5896781-Stuck-valves-Jetta-1.8T-2004-GLS-160k-km


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## bmp20bunny (May 8, 2004)

Kind of a thread revival, actually.

I've read through the thread, and thought I'd share my experience with these two I'm working on, plus get some ideas on what else I've got going on. 

Car #1, 02 Jetta 1.8t, 155k miles. Original symptoms were no reverse, and wouldn't shift out of first at any temp. Reading online, and a pm or two with coolairvw, I rolled the dice and bought one OEM N92 solenoid. Got all forward gears, somewhat jerky, but still no reverse. So, I rolled more dice, lol.. Got the 9 pack off eBay for 300-ish, now has all gears, but has a strange 2-3 up shift, kind of holds 2nd a little long, hesitates, then into 3rd. I'm kind of at a loss, but might need to readapt it, and maybe a capacitive discharge. 

Car #2, 02 Jetta GLX 24v vr6, 165k miles. Bought recently with no reverse at all, had 1-2 gears but that's it, acted like shifted into neutral after 2nd. Pulled end cover off, had a split/torn high clutch seal and smoked the clutch there. Checked piston for cracks, replaced seals and clutch pack. Now currently, has all gears, but no reverse when cold, and very erratic forward gears. One time you stop, it goes through all 5 perfect, the next time, it feels like 2-3 slips and revs up a little, then slams hard into 4th.... Then the next light it just slams hard into every gear on the way up he range. . 

Car #1, not sure where to go with that one, wondering if it has the typical cracked high/reverse piston.
Car #2, I'm leaning towards a solenoid pack. 

Any suggestions/ideas/critiques would be welcomed. I'd like to thank coolairvw for his help, not every shop owner will share his experience like he does. I appreciate that!


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## 8v power (Oct 14, 1999)

Another n92 solenoid success story, thanks all. This is why I love the vortex.:beer:


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## semkIVvr6 (Aug 15, 2012)

*PICS?*

hi i just came across your post an you said something abts pics? well i also have a 02 jetta vr6 with the 09A tranny as well an im having the exact same problems if you could send me a link for the pics yous said you used i would greatly appericiate it. thanks Dave


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## jmart37 (Mar 11, 2011)

*Reviving this thread: Complete Solenoid Replacement did not work for me*

By now, I can't imagine most people dealing with an 11 year old car...but I tried it anyways. I replaced all the solenoids after finding myself unable to shift out of 2nd gear. After replacing them all, i can't even get my jetta to move forward for some time. When i do, i'm still stuck in 2nd gear and just revs up when hitting the accelerator. I can no longer rev it to 5k rpms for it to shift into the next gear like i had done before.

If anyone had this issue even after replacing all the solenoids, please let me know. Otherwise, there will be a 2002 jetta 1.8t available for parts in KC.


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## tglonekenny (Jul 5, 2013)

*Wont shift to 3rd once warmed up!*

Hello there I am new to the forum world but needed a question answered. I have a 2002 vw jetta gls with 1.8T. When vehicle is cold it shifts hard from 1-2 and 2-3 but will shift. When vehicle warms up it will not shift into 3rd. It will just rev up and never shift until it cools back down is this a solenoid issue?


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## habbyguy (Feb 26, 2013)

bmp20bunny said:


> Kind of a thread revival, actually.
> 
> I've read through the thread, and thought I'd share my experience with these two I'm working on, plus get some ideas on what else I've got going on.
> 
> ...


 Your car #1 sounds a lot like my '03 Jetta 09a transmission. When I bought it there were a whole lot of shift issues, most of which were fixed with nine new solenoids. But I still had the same balky 2-3 shift like your car. Turned out it was a bad intermediate shaft speed sensor (this can be diagnosed with a VagCom but also shows up as a "regular" OBD error). The good news is that you can buy a new one for $20-60. The bad news is, you have to drop the transmission to replace it (no other option - trust me). So I replaced the sensor and have been shifting fine for the last 8,000 miles or so.


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## bmp20bunny (May 8, 2004)

well, my 1.8t car doesnt actually throw any codes for anything, just has the weird 2-3 shift. 

the 24v car, i replaced the solenoids on a guess, and it fixed it, sorta, has reverse at all times, and all 5 forwards. but the 2-3 is strange in it too, and the 3-4 is usually pretty harsh. gonna try a capacitive discharge and see if that changes anything.


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## dwalsh14 (Jul 15, 2013)

*2004 1.8T Shift issues*

I am fairly certain that I am having this issue but cannot find a shop willing to do the work. Is anyone aware of one in or around Birmingham AL? 

85% of the time it will not shift out of first until the car warms up.


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## dwalsh14 (Jul 15, 2013)

dwalsh14 said:


> I am fairly certain that I am having this issue but cannot find a shop willing to do the work. Is anyone aware of one in or around Birmingham AL?
> 
> 85% of the time it will not shift out of first until the car warms up.



Bump... looking for advice.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

dwalsh14 said:


> Bump... looking for advice.


Get on the phone... Get out the yellow pages.... find a vw specialty shop. Print this thread and show it to the mechanics... 

tdiclub has a "trusted mechanics" list. Maybe you can find someone near you. Hopefully they wont say "we dont work on transmissions". and hopefully they wont say "we dont use "internet" diagnsosis."


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## spacesnow (Mar 11, 2006)

*'01 1,9TDI not shifting from1st when gold*

Hi, took me whole night to reach this thread now but I am sure it was worth staying up and reading your success stories. I was almost selling my car because local VW workshop estimated for repair 3000-5000 €. Now I can at least try to start with much cheaper project with solenoids. 
Thanks for sharing wisdom and I will let you know when I get solenoid changed.


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## JackJoachim (Jun 30, 2012)

by now with my car being 10 years old, is it even worth it? I need to do some suspension work up front (axels, tie rods, bushings) and now this. would it just be better to dump the car, and pick a civic or something to get me through college? Dont get me wrong. Im the kid at my highschool that says "i dont want to drive any car but a VW". But after all the maintneince i have done it just doesnt seem worth the time and money and headache. I plan to do the suspension work ($1100), but i dont want spend that and get up to my freshman year of college and my car crap out on me.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

JackJoachim said:


> by now with my car being 10 years old, is it even worth it? I need to do some suspension work up front (axels, tie rods, bushings) and now this. would it just be better to dump the car, and pick a civic or something to get me through college? Dont get me wrong. Im the kid at my highschool that says "i dont want to drive any car but a VW". But after all the maintneince i have done it just doesnt seem worth the time and money and headache. I plan to do the suspension work ($1100), but i dont want spend that and get up to my freshman year of college and my car crap out on me.


So instead of changing solenoids, you want to buy another used car? So will the used car be cheaper than the solenoids? And will the used car be guaranteed to not need any repairs like solenoids? Do civic transmissions never fail? (yes they do!)


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## JackJoachim (Jun 30, 2012)

CoolAirVw said:


> So instead of changing solenoids, you want to buy another used car? So will the used car be cheaper than the solenoids? And will the used car be guaranteed to not need any repairs like solenoids? Do civic transmissions never fail? (yes they do!)


I understand that it will cost more than the solenoid change, but I'm going to college next fall and i don't want to get up there and my beloved gti break again. I just want to make the decision for college.


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## spacesnow (Mar 11, 2006)

JackJoachim said:


> I understand that it will cost more than the solenoid change, but I'm going to college next fall and i don't want to get up there and my beloved gti break again. I just want to make the decision for college.



I came through the same flow of thoughts but even when I need to buy a new tiptronic gbox it's still cheaper for me than to buy a 10k € car because there is no point to buy another 2k € car and start over all the repairwork I made for my current car until now.

My car will go to repair on Monday, will keep the hope it's just solenoids but as it is driven 400 000 km-s, the repaiguy said it might be just weared off and 2nd gear start working when the oil temp is enough to compensate the wearing, let's see.


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## spacesnow (Mar 11, 2006)

*Another successful solenoid swap*

Hey,

So I can say now it was worth of risk now to let change the solenoid N92. Everything working well and and it cost me only 250 € and they did it within 6 hours. Definitely cheaper than buy a new car, thank you clever people here to share your wisdom and experience. And God bless Internet (and keep an eye on Lemmy)!.


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## hellah fresh (Jun 17, 2009)

*Thanks for the N92 suggestion!*

I had the same/similair shift problem as allot of people in here and i replaced the N92 and the car drove perfect up until this morning. This morning was pretty cold and so i got in and put the car into reverse to leave and the car didn't want to shift into reverse. So i waited and let the car warm up a but and when it did the car shifted into reverse fine. Drove to work fine with no problems. Now im having an issue with the car not wanting to shift into reverse when its cold. When i changed the N92 i added 4qts of fluid. Anyone have a clue on what might can cause this?


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

hellah fresh said:


> I had the same/similair shift problem as allot of people in here and i replaced the N92 and the car drove perfect up until this morning. This morning was pretty cold and so i got in and put the car into reverse to leave and the car didn't want to shift into reverse. So i waited and let the car warm up a but and when it did the car shifted into reverse fine. Drove to work fine with no problems. Now im having an issue with the car not wanting to shift into reverse when its cold. When i changed the N92 i added 4qts of fluid. Anyone have a clue on what might can cause this?


You should have changed all the solenoids, because now your n90 is sticking.


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## hellah fresh (Jun 17, 2009)

^^^ Thanks! Yes i know but i was just trying to save a little bit of money because i know it can get expensive at times. Is the n90 a reverse backup solenoid?


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## rixwagn (Sep 1, 2007)

*1.8t Jetta Sportwagon Tiptronic*

Hello, 

I have the same issue as described in the above threads. When cold it will not shift out of 1st into 2nd gear. I noticed this as it started to get colder here in Chicago. If I let it warm up for a few minutes, it's fine. My CEL was on as well so I took to VW for a diagnosis a couple weeks ago. They recommended a reman or rebuilt trans $$$. I had actually ordered the solenoid kit and was going to replace them except, my wife and I are expecting and our due date is in a couple days (yes on Thanksgiving) So, since time has run out for me with great reluctance I bit the bullet and took it to VW for the rebuilt trans. I picked it up Saturday and drove the car to work today, SAME problem!! when cold it would not shift out of 1st gear!! Grrrr! I took it back, dropped it off, screamed and yelled, I have a loaner. How can it have the same problem with a new trans? obviously something else right? 

Any thoughts?


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## spacesnow (Mar 11, 2006)

rixwagn said:


> Hello,
> 
> I have the same issue as described in the above threads. When cold it will not shift out of 1st into 2nd gear. I noticed this as it started to get colder here in Chicago. If I let it warm up for a few minutes, it's fine. My CEL was on as well so I took to VW for a diagnosis a couple weeks ago. They recommended a reman or rebuilt trans $$$. I had actually ordered the solenoid kit and was going to replace them except, my wife and I are expecting and our due date is in a couple days (yes on Thanksgiving) So, since time has run out for me with great reluctance I bit the bullet and took it to VW for the rebuilt trans. I picked it up Saturday and drove the car to work today, SAME problem!! when cold it would not shift out of 1st gear!! Grrrr! I took it back, dropped it off, screamed and yelled, I have a loaner. How can it have the same problem with a new trans? obviously something else right?
> 
> Any thoughts?


Hi,

In my case it was like every morning the car first time shifted but then after 1-2 minutes drive when I had to slow down and accelerate it didn't go aynwhere from 1st gear until I had drived on 1st gear about 10 minutes. No exceptions, the same circus every morning. And after about 2 months like that it didnt shift from 1st even after I parked for 30 minutes.
Solenoid change fixed it and shifting is now totally OK - 3 months since the repair. Can you check the error log from diagnostic interface? Could it be that refurbished gbox had the same issue with solenoids, is it tested and can you confirm that?


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## MIGUELDIAZ1988 (Feb 4, 2014)

*03 vw gti 1.8 t auto trans*

Can some help me please im having problems with my gti my trasmission is jerking everytime it goes to different gear i check oil level and it fine


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## MIGUELDIAZ1988 (Feb 4, 2014)

*03 vw gti 1.8 t auto trans*

I need some to help me i have a 03 gti 1.8 turbo automatic everytime it shift to all gear it jerks my oil level is good after gear go in it works perfect just the jerking any ideas ? Wat could it be?


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

MIGUELDIAZ1988 said:


> I need some to help me i have a 03 gti 1.8 turbo automatic everytime it shift to all gear it jerks my oil level is good after gear go in it works perfect just the jerking any ideas ? Wat could it be?


there are solenoids that can stick and cause that. Diagnosing is difficult. If it works ok sometimes and not others then solenoids might be worth trying.


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## Hoodie74 (Feb 26, 2014)

Can somebody plz help!!! I hav 01 jetta 1.8T with automatic. Heres the story...the trans was slow engaging into gear wen i would go from reverse into drive. I would hit throttle and it would rev but not move. After bout a minute, it would SLOWLY start to move. Evry time i would pull out from a stop, again it would rev high then slowly get goin. I had trans filter and fluid changed and after a week it was worse than evr. I always let it warm up for 20mins b4 driving. I put it in reverse it revved but didnt move. Put it in neutral and it wanted to drive. Finally went in reverse and got it goin down the highway. Got off an exit and it wouldnt come outa first. Pulled over and lost ALL gears. Had it scanned and it said "incorrect gear ratio". Kid who scanned it didnt knw wat tht meant. Wen i told him bout changing filter he said that destroyed my trans and only fix is swap. Got a DIFFERENT guy to tow it to a local shop (he claims hes been werkin on vws for 35yrs). After having my car for 3 days he said its pulling codes he didnt understand!!!! Wtf! Im sure hes guna try to rip me off as well. Idk wat to do. I need my car back. Does anybody hav any advice? Duz this sound like the N92 problem or worse? I have no problem paying to hav it fixed but dnt wana b bull****ted and ripped off. If its the solenoids ir valve body and any yall near pittsburgh pa, il pay u to fix it. Any help would b greatly appreciated


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

Hoodie74 said:


> Can somebody plz help!!! I hav 01 jetta 1.8T with automatic. Heres the story...the trans was slow engaging into gear wen i would go from reverse into drive. I would hit throttle and it would rev but not move. After bout a minute, it would SLOWLY start to move. Evry time i would pull out from a stop, again it would rev high then slowly get goin. I had trans filter and fluid changed and after a week it was worse than evr. I always let it warm up for 20mins b4 driving. I put it in reverse it revved but didnt move. Put it in neutral and it wanted to drive. Finally went in reverse and got it goin down the highway. Got off an exit and it wouldnt come outa first. Pulled over and lost ALL gears. Had it scanned and it said "incorrect gear ratio". Kid who scanned it didnt knw wat tht meant. Wen i told him bout changing filter he said that destroyed my trans and only fix is swap. Got a DIFFERENT guy to tow it to a local shop (he claims hes been werkin on vws for 35yrs). After having my car for 3 days he said its pulling codes he didnt understand!!!! Wtf! Im sure hes guna try to rip me off as well. Idk wat to do. I need my car back. Does anybody hav any advice? Duz this sound like the N92 problem or worse? I have no problem paying to hav it fixed but dnt wana b bull****ted and ripped off. If its the solenoids ir valve body and any yall near pittsburgh pa, il pay u to fix it. Any help would b greatly appreciated


you probably have a 01m since you have a 2001. Everything your describing sounds like you need to start budgeting for a trans. Maybe the guys your talking too aint trying to rip you off after all. 

FYI if you have a 01m this isnt' the correct thread to be discussing this as this thread is centered on the 09A trans. (if you have a pan on the bottom of the trans then you have a 01m)


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## VWadventure (Mar 8, 2014)

A lot of great info here all- I’m grateful to have found this forum. I’m a new owner of a 2004 Jetta TDI wagon, automatic transmission, and are having similar issues... though the car first started having trouble engaging in first gear when moving from a standstill (revved up a lot before engaging), and has quite a delay before engaging into 2nd as well. The biggest difference here that I’ve noticed when compared to other similar threads on this topic is that my car was having these troubles after is was WARM (after running 5-10 min), not COLD. These were the issues that were most obvious to me, before I had it towed to the shop.

Long story short, the car was a very recent purchase from a dealership, and I’m pushing them for part responsibility in the potential repairs (based on the salesperson’s 30-day “guarantee”... which I should have got in writing. Lesson learned I guess). Anyway, the car has been looked at by a transmission shop that the dealership sometimes uses (not my first choice obviously, but the dealership is willing to take part financial responsibility...). Apparently nothing is showing up their diagnostic tests, and they’re recommending a rebuild of the transmission. Parts list as follows:

VW Valve body
Seals & rings are metalclad aftermarket
Clutches are Borg Warner
Torque convertor is a remanufactured unit from Transtar Recon

Been calling/researching like a madman for the past 2+ weeks, and was recommended to call (by a VW mechanic) a local transmission shop. Based on my description of the problems, he would take these steps:

Scan codes
Drop pan and check condition of transmission fluid (I’m not sure if dealer’s transmission shop has done this, though I would hope so; I will be speaking with them directly on Monday, instead of through the dealer)
Service the transmission, flush, new oil (50/50 chance that this would help)
Run car for 2-3 weeks; if problem shows up again, will start to tear apart transmission
Replace clutches, 9 solenoids, sensors

This shop said that for this transmission (09A?), that it would be unlikely that the Valve Body would need replacement, and that he would change the solenoids and sensors. This is different than the other shop’s recommendations, though is more in alignment with this thread. Is it true that it is unlikely that the Valve Body would need replacement? Some other shops I’ve talked to (VW/Import specific), mentioned that the Valve Body would likely need replacing and is an expensive part.

Both quotes for the work from both of these places is around the same amount, but with different parts being replaced/serviced. Does anyone have any comments/suggestions? Any feedback is greatly appreciated.


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## VWadventure (Mar 8, 2014)

A lot of searches on this topic lead to replacement of all 9 solenoids... dumb question, but does a new VW valve body include the 9 solenoids, or is that usually a separate parts order? Will gain a bit more clarity tomorrow when I can speak to the tranny shop, but just wanted to get some feedback in the meantime.

Cheers


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## spacesnow (Mar 11, 2006)

VWadventure - I just checked my bit old ETKA software for valve body and for example for my Golf 2001 and it offers the following options:
A. valve body 09A325039D whitch includes 9 solenoids, 3 bolts and 3 o-rings (parts 3-11, 13-15 and 20-23 from picture)
B. You can buy all those also separately but I found them under "control unit" parts with separate part numbers
I made screenshots for all 4 pages to easily understand. My ETKA software is quite old but the parts selling system is probably still the same.


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## VWadventure (Mar 8, 2014)

spacesnow said:


> VWadventure - I just checked my bit old ETKA software for valve body and for example for my Golf 2001 and it offers the following options:
> A. valve body 09A325039D whitch includes 9 solenoids, 3 bolts and 3 o-rings (parts 3-11, 13-15 and 20-23 from picture)
> B. You can buy all those also separately but I found them under "control unit" parts with separate part numbers
> I made screenshots for all 4 pages to easily understand. My ETKA software is quite old but the parts selling system is probably still the same.


Thanks for the screen shots spacesnow, it is helpful to see it!


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## spacesnow (Mar 11, 2006)

You welcome,
this site have been so many times so helpful for me that it's pleasure to be able to share something from my side! I saved the price of refurbished new trannybox which was offered by local repair shop when I saw this thread and got my old tranny fixed by changing one solenoid.


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## MIGUELDIAZ1988 (Feb 4, 2014)

*03 vw gti 1.8 t auto trans*

Please i need help my vw gti 2003 is leaking oil out of the breather cap in the valve cover pan any suggestion? Wat could be to leak from where it breaths???


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## MIGUELDIAZ1988 (Feb 4, 2014)

*03 vw gti 1.8 t auto trans*

I change my silenoids and it work fine now but its leaking out of the cap where it transmission breaths dou u know why it might do this??


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## vwking (Dec 14, 2001)

you over filled the transmission. it general takes about 3.5 quarts of fluid


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## vwking (Dec 14, 2001)

*n92*

just for the record i have successfully repaired 6 transmissions with just the n92 solenoid. I work at AAMCO TRANSMISSIONS


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

vwking said:


> just for the record i have successfully repaired 6 transmissions with just the n92 solenoid. I work at AAMCO TRANSMISSIONS


If you look at those solenoids carefully you'll see there are 6 that are exactly the same as the n92. They are EXACTLY the same but have different brackets welded to them for the various positions that they mount in. they stick because of the design. So by changing the one solenoid you can count on another failing later and causing another symptom. Your doing the customer a dis-service if they have to pay labor again when it looses reverse cold only or some other sticky solenoid related symptom. 

I've had numerous different solenoids of the n92 design stick, yes the n92 is most common. 

The other 3 solenoids are of a different design but they also are identical to each other, just with different brackets welded to them for the various mounting positions. I've had less of these stick but they do stick. One makes it seem like the trans is junk as it will slip and bang on most every shift. 

anyway... just my 2 cents worth. If the solenoids are all the same, and you change just one..... likely the others will stick also.


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## vwking (Dec 14, 2001)

these are all customers that where given the option to rebuild the trans, or replace all 9 solenoids, or just one. these are all people that had no money to repair the cars the right way so they are very happy to have found an alternative route to go!!! also all were informed of possible problems in the future. when did vwvortex become filled with so many complainers wow!


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## spacesnow (Mar 11, 2006)

vwking said:


> these are all customers that where given the option to rebuild the trans, or replace all 9 solenoids, or just one. these are all people that had no money to repair the cars the right way so they are very happy to have found an alternative route to go!!! also all were informed of possible problems in the future. when did vwvortex become filled with so many complainers wow!


I think to offer to change all 9 is OK but I did only one and I asked from the guy who did the repair about other similar cases. The repair-shop kinda really specified on tiptronic trans and quick solenoid changes so almost everybody in town goes to them if tip goes bananas. He said maybe 1-2% customers wants to change other magnets too, besides the faulty one. For me I just keep my monthly budged in balance if i fix car as it brokes. Sure it would be nice to buy a new door if corner gets rustyor new seat if the spring jumpsout of it but the car is 10 years old and maybe it doesn't last as long as the next solenoid dies. 
Anyway I disagree with you because there are still those good fellows on forum who gives you that very necessary and sometimes tricky information how to get things done at your car. And there are always many more people who doesn't help much. Like in real life...


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## vwking (Dec 14, 2001)

please read the entire conversation before you comment i am one of the guys that offer the help!


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## spacesnow (Mar 11, 2006)

vwking said:


> please read the entire conversation before you comment i am one of the guys that offer the help!


Hey, my answer actually wasn't meant to you but more like retorical answer to everyone who might complain about the forum and posters. I am pretty sure thanks to your advices I saved the costs of tranny-change, so I can only say thanks again to you and please keep the fire burning and don't pay attention to irrelevant posts!!!


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## vwking (Dec 14, 2001)

:beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:


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## Ryegor (Feb 26, 2008)

*Need Your Advice!*

Hey guys, I had no choice but to wake this thread up.

Thanks to you, my friend--a very good mechanic--was able to eliminate the stuck-in first-gear after cold start problem on my daughter's '02 GTI by replacing the N92 solenoid. More than 6 months passed since then and the car had been running fine until the past week: it started acting up again.

I cold-started the car and drove off to see what's happening. It shifted from first to second and so on, but with noticeable delay and the shifts weren't smooth either, kind of jerky. I then switched gears manually which was ok, but when I downshifted from 5th to 4th, or 3d to 2nd it was difficult to tell if it shifted or not, it always felt as driving in 4th or 5th gear. Pushing more on accelerator didn't make any difference for a short period of time, but then the gears engaged. Manual upshifting felt fine. The car might behave fine for a day or two, but it happens again and again.

Following to others' advice in this thread, we decided to replace all the remaining solenoids and I ordered *this set* from eBay. Since many of you accumulated such an in-depth experience in this I am asking for your advice on what else would you recommend to replace during this repair process?


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

Ryegor said:


> Hey guys, I had no choice but to wake this thread up.
> 
> Thanks to you, my friend--a very good mechanic--was able to eliminate the stuck-in first-gear after cold start problem on my daughter's '02 GTI by replacing the N92 solenoid. More than 6 months passed since then and the car had been running fine until the past week: it started acting up again.
> 
> ...



There is a problem with your post.... your posting in a thread that is discussing a common problem with a 09A trans. Yet you seem to have ordered a solenoid set for a 01m. Do you know what transmission you have?


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## Ryegor (Feb 26, 2008)

CoolAirVw said:


> There is a problem with your post.... your posting in a thread that is discussing a common problem with a 09A trans. Yet you seem to have ordered a solenoid set for a 01m. Do you know what transmission you have?


Hmm... I don't know, I will find out.


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## Ryegor (Feb 26, 2008)

It seems I bought a wrong one, should be 09A. Thanks for bringing it up!


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## roydrummer (Dec 1, 2014)

Hello everyone,

I'm hoping someone on this fantastic thread can help somehow! I've been experiencing the symptoms mentioned here for a few months now.
I have a 2005 TDI Jetta Wagon, automatic transmission, 189k.. I was excited to find this thread because I'm having the exact same issues, and the solenoid job sounded like the ideal solution, especially because of the relative low cost. However, when I sent this thread to my mechanics (whom I've been using for 6 years) asking if we could do it, they told me that it wasn't such a simple job because I have a Jatco transmission, not a German one, and to do the solenoid job on my trans is way more time consuming (10 hours of labor) because they have to pull the whole thing out and split it open to get to the solenoids. All in, they were saying the job would be around $2000. Does this all sound correct?
They suggested starting with smaller 'fixes' which may or may not solve the problem, so I agreed and we replaced the transmission range switch. $600, no difference. Then a fluid service. $400, still no difference. So now I'm looking at either a rebuild ($3400), a replacement ($4k+), taking a chance with the solenoid job, or finding a good transmission shop who'll put in a junkyard trans for a decent price. I would trade it if I hadn't already done major repairs in the last year or so.

Any help or info is GREATLY appreciated. I sincerely mean that! I'm really over this sh*t at this point...

Roy


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## gsferraro (Sep 22, 2014)

Roy,
If this is not shifting when cold, you have one of two possibilities. One, you have a solenoid problem. Two, you have a valvebody problem. By the way, all you have to do is pull off the side cover, it is alittle tricky,(this trans has no pan)if this guy is not a trans guy, not sure i would let him do it. The way to diagnose this problem in my opinion is, to pull the valvebody out, it has to be disassembled, and the valvebody pieces have to be put in the freezer, after about 2 hours, i pull out the valvebody check each valve to see if they stick or drag in the bore, if they do i free them up, if the valves are all free you have a solenoid problem. I had 2 cases where i changed the solenoids and 1 time found a stuck valve.Gary


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## spacesnow (Mar 11, 2006)

hi roy,

Ihave exact the same Jatco and it took just about 3 hours to change one solenoid from mechanics. 2 men but they refused to show me how to do that. Some trick maybe involved. Anyway no need to tear down anything.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

roydrummer said:


> . I was excited to find this thread because I'm having the exact same issues, and the solenoid job sounded like the ideal solution, especially because of the relative low cost.


If your having delayed upshift cold, and the trans works fine warm, then you probably do need solenoids.





roydrummer said:


> ..... because I have a Jatco transmission, not a German one,


Yes you have a Jatco. Its a Jatco Jf506E and VW calls it a 09A.



roydrummer said:


> . because they have to pull the whole thing out and split it open to get to the solenoids.


They are confused. The trans does not have to come out to replace solenoids. Valve body cover (pan) does have to be removed to access solenoids. They may be confused with the speed sensors. They are inside the trans and trans has to be pulled out and split open to replace the speed sensors. Sounds like they don't know enough about these transmissions.



roydrummer said:


> .All in, they were saying the job would be around $2000. Does this all sound correct?


No. Find someone who knows whats going on. 



roydrummer said:


> .They suggested starting with smaller 'fixes' which may or may not solve the problem, so I agreed and we replaced the transmission range switch. $600, no difference.


What a waste of money! Someone who knows whats going on could have checked the range sensor conclusively in 45 seconds with vagcom. Do these guys have vagcom?



roydrummer said:


> .Then a fluid service. $400, still no difference.


Fluid service is preventive maintanance and doesn't fix problems. They wasted your money again, plus there is no filter so cost should be cheap. There are no cooler hoses so no "flush machine" can be used, so it should be cheap. Fluid service on 09A is a simple drain and fill, (with a complex fill procedure). They really overcharged you on that one. I Charge 30 bucks plus cost of fluid for drain and fill trans services. (fluid would be 60 to 150 depending on if you wanted dealer fluid or aftermarket).



roydrummer said:


> .So now I'm looking at either a rebuild ($3400), a replacement ($4k+), taking a chance with the solenoid job, or finding a good transmission shop who'll put in a junkyard trans for a decent price.


You should be looking for a different shop. Seriously find someone near you who will change the solenoids. Or you can drive to kansas city and I'll do it.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

gsferraro said:


> If this is not shifting when cold, you have one of two possibilities. One, you have a solenoid problem. Two, you have a valvebody problem.


theoretically it could be a VB problem but since there are dozens of folks in this thread who have fixed this problem with solenoids, and I personally have fixed about a dozen with solenoids (and none with VB work), then sticky solenoids is a known pattern failure. 

To RoyDrummer.... I wouldn't waste time by disassembling VB or "checking" solenoids when there is a known pattern failure. It would cost more to diagnostically eliminate the VB than it would cost to change the solenoids. 

The method gsferraro is suggesting for diagnosing involves removing, and completely disassembling a complex VB and that might be fine for him or I but for most people including RoyDrummer, his incompetent mechanics, and most Diy'ers out there this VB is way too complex and they could potentially mess more stuff up. VB work and internal trans work might best be left to the pro's on this one.


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## roydrummer (Dec 1, 2014)

Thank you everyone for your replies! :thumbup:

@CoolAirVW - Yeah, the trans works great once the car is warm. Apparently there was an error code for the trans switch, and that's why they wanted to replace it. They told me that because the trans would be split open to replace the solenoids, I may as well replace the sensors you're talking about, to save on potential future labor. After reading your reply, I'm having serious doubts about my guys. Very disappointing indeed, because I really felt they'd been great over the years. I'll start looking at local transmission shops. In your experience, approximately how much should I be expecting to pay for the solenoid job on my car? Thanks again for your help!


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

roydrummer said:


> @CoolAirVW - Yeah, the trans works great once the car is warm.



Then your car will most likely be fixed with solenoids. 



roydrummer said:


> They told me that because the trans would be split open to replace the solenoids,


This is NOT the case. The solenoid can be replaced without removing the trans, and without splitting the case. It would be a waste of hundreds of dollars to do this.



roydrummer said:


> I may as well replace the sensors you're talking about, to save on potential future labor.


This would be logical if you had to pull the trans and split the case but you dont, so right now that would be a waste of money.



roydrummer said:


> After reading your reply, I'm having serious doubts about my guys.


You should. Maybe they just need to do a little more research on the matter.


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## gsferraro (Sep 22, 2014)

Hello,
To do that solenoid job, i would get around 1000. (i havent done the reaserch with parts and labor but im close) Gary


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## roydrummer (Dec 1, 2014)

Thanks again for all the replies!


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## gsferraro (Sep 22, 2014)

Welcome, let us know how it goes. Gary


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## roydrummer (Dec 1, 2014)

I got a quote of $850 to change the solenoids, so I'm taking it in this week. Will let you know how it goes!


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## gsferraro (Sep 22, 2014)

Thats a good price, keep us posted. Gary


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## roydrummer (Dec 1, 2014)

*Update..*

So, the guy who gave me the $850 quote decided that they're not going to do the job (they told me this today after giving me the quote 9 days ago..I've been patiently waiting for them to catch up on work so they can do the job.) His 'tech' said he knows this trans and that the problem is not the solenoids but pistons in the valve body and we have to rebuild it blah blah f'n blah..they wouldn't do the job, despite me accepting all responsibility if it didn't work. Unbelievable! :banghead:

Tomorrow morning I'm taking it to another recommended shop for another quote..


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## gsferraro (Sep 22, 2014)

Roy,
Maybe your better off not letting him do the job, did you get a quote from the other guy yet? Does he know transmissions? Gary


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## roydrummer (Dec 1, 2014)

gsferraro said:


> Roy,
> Maybe your better off not letting him do the job, did you get a quote from the other guy yet? Does he know transmissions? Gary


I'm taking the car to another transmission shop tomorrow for a quote.


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## gsferraro (Sep 22, 2014)

Sounds good, let us know how it goes. Gary


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## roydrummer (Dec 1, 2014)

The transmission shop I took it to today is familiar with my transmission, and I feel confident about using them. They quoted me $750 for the solenoid job. The shop owner was talking to me about how the valve bodies in these cars are the source of many trans problems, so I had him give me a quote to replace the valve body - $1650. The car has 190k miles. Do you guys think it's worth considering replacing the valve body, or is that unnecessary?
Thanks for your replies!


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## gsferraro (Sep 22, 2014)

Hello,
I can only speak of what goes on in my shop, I recall one time where i had to get a valvebody and thats because the shop that had it before me totally screwed it up. Gary


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## Bill1 (Feb 2, 2015)

*Similar problems with 2.3 v5*

Hi 
Am having the exact same problems with my 2001 v5 Golf (Tiptronic Auto). Wont change out of first until reaches 90 deg C

I understand its also the 09A box (is this correct?) so the solenoids are likely to be the issue. 

Can someone please confirm how I can identify if this is the 09A?

Thank you


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## gsferraro (Sep 22, 2014)

The 09A has no bottom pan, only a side cover. Gary


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## roydrummer (Dec 1, 2014)

I ended up going with a valve body replacement, and the car is now running better than ever. 😀


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## gsferraro (Sep 22, 2014)

Glad to hear that its fixed and running good. Gary


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## 02Jetta1EightTurbo (May 14, 2014)

*Not shifting into 2nd when cold*

So after a month or so of reading all the info I could on this N92 solenoid issue I decided to take my Jetta to a transmission shop. No codes popped up on the computer and they told me I need it rebuilt. When it's cold outside (below freezing) I have to let it warm up for around 20-40 minutes before it'll shift into 2nd and then it's fine once it's warmed up. Being I seem to be having the same issue as the rest of everyone... do I just need the N92 solenoid? I think this tranny "mechanic" is full of crap thinking its not that when tons of other people have had positive results after replacing it. Any feedback is greatly appreciated...


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

02Jetta1EightTurbo said:


> I think this tranny "mechanic" is full of crap..



I'll agree with that. If it works good warmed up it usually the solenoid.


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## Rogue321 (Aug 22, 2014)

So, my daughter's car is acting up. A few weeks ago she called saying her transmission is acting funny. Last week I had to go to her friend's house and bring it home. 

When I got in it, it would not shift into second. It would try, but no power and it'd go back into 1st. Once I got it to the highway, I went ahead and revved the engine up and it shifted into 4th and then into 5th normally. 

When I got off the interstate, it shifted fine. 

However, that was the last time it has shifted fine, regardless of whether it has warmed up or not. I have to rev the engine way up in first to get the vehicle speed high enough for it to slide into 4th gear. I let it rev up, let off the gas, the engine speed will drop and it'll go into 4th. It'll shift between 4th and 5th fine. 

I'm getting PO732 and PO733, both engine speed not matching vehicle speed, suggesting slipping in 2nd and 3rd. Sometimes it will act like it is shifting into 2nd, but it just slips. Sometimes it just doesn't shift and I do the 4th gear thing. 

Does this sound like N92? An occasional slipping 2nd and 3rd, but mainly no shift into 2nd or 3rd?


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## elimiNATE (Apr 8, 2015)

*Limp Mode?*

So, as I'm sure you've heard a million times over, I am a MKIV owner who ended up with the n92 solenoid shift problem in the 09A transmission--(2002 Jetta GLS 1.8t).

After extensive searching I purchased the full kit from Cobra and took my vehicle to a local transmission shop who said they would do the swap out with my parts and fluid for $250+

-sweet deal I thought.

So I took it up there and they called me a few days later to tell me that the job was done. I go up to the shop to pick up the car and the technician tells me that everything seems to good inside the transmission, the solenoid readouts are on point but the car is throwing a code (I dont recall the code # off of the top of my head, but I remembered looking it up and it had to do with the N88 solenoid) anyway, he says he's not sure what is causing the electrical problem causing the car to go into Limp (safe) mode or the why it's throwing the code because everything inside the transmission is reading as it should and referred me to a local vehicle electrician to do further testing.

The electrician does his thing and comes back to tell me that that the Valve 1 (N88) solenoid is checking in at 6 OHMS when it should be SPEC at 9-24

All other solenoids are in at 16 OHMS and that I have a bad N88 solenoid.

Weird. They're all new and the transmission tech said they all read correctly.

So I take it back up to the transmission guy and tell him whats up. He takes it apart and checks it all out again and says there _isn't_ a bad solenoid and all readouts are as good as they were before when he sent me to the electrician.

This wasn't a problem prior to the solenoid swap.

I had the cold start issue where I would have to let the engine get to temp before the transmission would change gears, after that it ran smoothly.

So now, what he's thinking we need to do is replace the internal and external wiring harness.

These things are expensive, the only ones I can track down are on cobra transmission and to get them both will be around about $470--and that doesn't even include the Sensor Wire Harness or the sensors.

(Links: *internal-* http://cobratransmission.com/09a-vw-internal-wire-harness-803043-1 *external-* http://cobratransmission.com/09a-vw-external-wire-harness-803042-1 )

So, I was wondering if anyone in this forum had any experience with this.

Is there any place I can find the harness as a set for much cheaper?

could the problem potentially be somewhere else?


Needing help quick. My car is currently taking up space at his shop and we're both wanting to get this problem solved as quickly as possible I'm sure!

Thanks in advance guys!


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## Steve Gotts (May 8, 2016)

*n92 or sensor wiring?*

did you even get the issue settled re: changing out all the solenoids vs figuring out about the wiring? I may be in the same boat, but have not yet swapped the solenoids.


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## spacesnow (Mar 11, 2006)

Steve Gotts said:


> did you even get the issue settled re: changing out all the solenoids vs figuring out about the wiring? I may be in the same boat, but have not yet swapped the solenoids.


Hi Steve, when I had this "morning sickness" problem with my 09A tranny, I probably read all the posts regarding the issue in this forum and also in few others and it always came to the same solution - replace the solenoid. Not a one I read was about broken wire or harnesses. I got my solenoid changed for about few hundred € and it still working like Swiss clock (not the Thailand replica).


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## egilon (Aug 7, 2016)

I'd like to thank everyone who contributed here.
My 2002 Golf TDI stuck in 1st gear until the engine warmed up.
VW Service center tested the transmission and told me that the gear is "slipping" and requires a complete overhaul - cost over $3000!
This is more than the price of the car and meant I'd have to scrap it.
After finding and reading this thread, I understood that there's a very good chance it's the N92. Tested by driving downhill and revving up till it changed into 4th. I then had a the N92 replaced for about $300.
My car has been running great for the last week


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## cbsoooo06 (Nov 12, 2016)

*2004 Jetta TDI 260k Trip 09A*

Read this tread and have ordered full solenoid kit ,fluid and got a game plan set. Thanks for all the info about cold shifting.
Sounds like it will work,,... my other problem:
Month ago the manual tip +- shift stopped working still have not figured that out yet. Checked some of the wiring and shift lever area only one flat magnet on this model from what I can see.
* not related to shifting I am sure.. last week Replaced/rebuilt Brake Parts calipers, hoses etc from pedal back ( bleeding brakes How fun), Checked all vacuum hoses to everything, Can sensor,O2 sensor, runs great , VAG looks good except.
* It started not shift out of first for 5 mins warm up a week after all that work( Now what), shifts very nice after warm..
2 Faults Found:
00652 - Gear Monitoring 27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
01045 - Tiptronic Switch (F189) 27-00 - Implausible Signal
.
I have changed the tranny fluid every two years since owned plus 2 ounces.

Question is :
Will Solenoid replacement also fix Tip+- manual shifting as well if anyone knows the layout of one magnet?
Not sure what the Tip+- is connected to< other sensors or what?


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## Ballsdeep227 (Jan 10, 2022)

vwking said:


> *n92*
> 
> just for the record i have successfully repaired 6 transmissions with just the n92 solenoid. I work at AAMCO TRANSMISSIONS


I have reverse and second gear. Every other gear is like neutral. Will this fix it?


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## Eduardo cury (5 mo ago)

Hey guys, I have a 2002 1.8T jetta….
Same issue but with something else too.
The car does not change gears if the engine is cold.
if I try to drive, the car only goes 15 miles and is constantly braking by itself.
every day it gets worse, before it took 5 minutes for the car to start again, now I have to wait almost 40 minutes


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