# battery question



## sniper27 (Jan 22, 2001)

Searched and read about people's battery dying around 30k miles. Yesterday, my car almost didnt start at 29k miles. Did a battery test today and they said it needs a recharge, but will need a new battery soon anyways. 
Problem is, everywhere i called (pep boys, sears, napa, kragen..) no one carries the battery for the A3. For those of you who replaced your battery, where did you find them? Besides the dealer, who wanted $350. 
Also, any info on group size or CCA would help.
thx.


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## Hesaputz (May 12, 2006)

*Re: battery question (sniper27)*

Group 34 R - Interstate has a fitment. I used an Optima red top - it's a tight fit, and you have to modify the + terminal, but they last a long time.


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## yakkonvazn (Jan 14, 2003)

^ just get optima red top. The autozone battey I got was 140 with the core. But it wasn't those batteries they have on their shelves.


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## sniper27 (Jan 22, 2001)

*Re: (yakkonvazn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *yakkonvazn* »_^ just get optima red top. The autozone battey I got was 140 with the core. But it wasn't those batteries they have on their shelves.

which one did you go to? i called a few autozone in glendale/burbank and they didn't have the optima. actually, they said they didn't even have any battery for the A3, like all the other places.


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## Audi'sRevenge (Mar 24, 2008)

*Re: (sniper27)*

Yeah there is no app specified anywhere for the A3 it seems, looks like we just got forgotten.








A couple weekends ago I swapped in a 75/35 Red Top I had sitting aroudn (think they actually CALL it a 75/25 but the group size is 75/35--weird); went in with little difficulty. The terminals could actually be considered "reversed" on the stock battery compared to the Optima but on the Optima they are more in the middle rather than off to either side so it works out easy enough, you just have to push back the negative wire a bit.
The only thing was the battery hold-down notch didn't line up with the notch in the battery properly, well it did but putting it there the battery box cover wouldn't go back on because the battery was too far forward and the clasp on the box cover just hit the battery terminal. So I just moved the battery rearward a bit more (towards the pax compartment) and tightened down the hold down off the detent/notch and it still holds it fine.
The 34/34R looks like it fits (as someone mentioned above) but since it's larger it may be a little more trouble (mention of modifying the terminal?). I just figured "hey I got this 75/35 sitting around might as well put it in", and it fit as above--I don't see it as any harder than changing the OE battery for another OE battery anyway.


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## JLT (May 18, 2008)

*Re: battery question (sniper27)*

my battery pooped on me at 32,000 miles. it was the factory battery. it started fine, drove to the store, went in, came out, turned key, car was dead. had to take a cab home, steal girlfriends car, buy battery in OTHER COUNTY, then install. was a great gift from audi :-(


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## yakkonvazn (Jan 14, 2003)

*Re: (sniper27)*

Go to autozone online and search for the specific battery by inputting the type of vehicle. It should only be one battery option for it. Its for the quattro as well. I had to travel 20 mins to get mine at the Pico Rivera location right off the 605 on whittier blvd. The 24 hour stores should have them in stock. They serve as the inventory hub for all the regular autozones. 3 year replacement 8 year warranty. Can't beat that.


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## aeitingon (Mar 21, 2005)

It was $150 at the dealer here in Orlando... I too searched the other places and the dealer was the only place that had one that was assured to fit.
Despite what the dealer will tell you, you do not need to get the dealer to install it - just swap the battery - the only thing you will need to do is raise and lower each window a few times to set/activate the auto up/down feature.


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## yakkonvazn (Jan 14, 2003)

o yea, the autozone battery is like 2mm thicker than the original battery. The sleeve will fit, but wont be able to lock it in place. you kind of just have to force it in last.


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## KnockKnock (Jun 30, 2005)

*Re: (yakkonvazn)*

Happy with it?

_Quote, originally posted by *yakkonvazn* »_o yea, the autozone battery is like 2mm thicker than the original battery. The sleeve will fit, but wont be able to lock it in place. you kind of just have to force it in last.


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## sciblades (Oct 21, 2008)

I got an interstate battery for cheap. There is a dealer where i live so it was very easy to find. 110 dollars has worked great since, i got mine at 39k.


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## 3lfk1ng (Apr 10, 2008)

*Re: (sciblades)*

For the price the dealer charges, you would be better off with a Braille racing battery.


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## sniper27 (Jan 22, 2001)

*Re: (yakkonvazn)*

ok, after 5 days of searching, i found one at an Autozone. they didn't have the Duralast Gold, which has the 3 yr replacement warranty. they only had the regular Duralast with a 2yr replacement for $89. They swapped it in the parking lot for me. Total out the door was $100. Not bad at all compare to the dealer. I still can't believe how difficult it was to find a battery for the A3.


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## dmorrow (Jun 9, 2000)

*Re: (sniper27)*

Would the battery for the GTI/Jetta GLI work? I thought this might be a good solution since it is essentially the same engine but far more common.


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## JLT (May 18, 2008)

*Re: battery question (sniper27)*

i got a duramax thing from autozone


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## yakkonvazn (Jan 14, 2003)

i am happy with mine. I don't know id the regular duralast was the exact specified battery, otherwise I would of bought that. did you use the battery type finder on their website? Some stores will tell you that it's the battery just based on the size. I guess it works too


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## OCaudi (Nov 16, 2006)

*Re: (yakkonvazn)*

anyone use this??
http://www.purems.com/products/product.php/II=1787


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## yakkonvazn (Jan 14, 2003)

here it is..
http://www.autozone.com/R,2267...l.htm

don't know if it had the logo tho. h6-dlg


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## sniper27 (Jan 22, 2001)

*Re: (yakkonvazn)*

they didn't have the Gold. just the regular duralast, but it was the same group 48, and it fit perfectly. ya, it's a little bigger than the factory battery, but it seems the factory is too small. the space fits the bigger battery perfectly. 
i didnt think to check if the GTI/GLI battery works.


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## ZFXR (Jul 8, 2006)

*Re: battery question (sniper27)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sniper27* »_Searched and read about people's battery dying around 30k miles. Yesterday, my car almost didnt start at 29k miles. Did a battery test today and they said it needs a recharge, but will need a new battery soon anyways. 
Problem is, everywhere i called (pep boys, sears, napa, kragen..) no one carries the battery for the A3. For those of you who replaced your battery, where did you find them? Besides the dealer, who wanted $350. 
Also, any info on group size or CCA would help.
thx.

Aaaah yes, the wonderful Audi battery (Moll?). Mine was bad from the first winter, the stealer couldn't "replicate" the problem. Thus not covered under the shi**y 12mo/12k warranty







. Even the cheapo auto parts batteries have warranties better than that? When I had battery go bad at 2 years on an Oldsmobile Intrigue, yes Olds, they replaced it no problemo








Since I'm out of town mucho these days, I didn't have time to get a better battery. Sears, Auto Zone, and Car Quest did't have one in stock. Car Quest could order one, but that was about it (was $114 same CCA as stock). Sears and Auto Zone had no clue.
After some yelling due to their failure to diagnose it the previous three times I had it in (they wanted $270 for the install + bat) they agreed to $123. Laurel Audi of Wesmont, IL- idiot 1/2 ass techs...
I believe the factory CCA was 420, my new one is 480. Uhhhh, huhuh, 420.
I got an Enertec battery. According to the folks at the dealer it is better than the Moll. We shall see... Does crank stronger, or so it seems. One or two cranks and I'm running http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## OOOO-A3 (Jul 20, 2004)

*Re: battery question (sniper27)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sniper27* »_Searched and read about people's battery dying around 30k miles. Yesterday, my car almost didnt start at 29k miles. Did a battery test today and they said it needs a recharge, but will need a new battery soon anyways. 
Problem is, everywhere i called (pep boys, sears, napa, kragen..) no one carries the battery for the A3. For those of you who replaced your battery, where did you find them? Besides the dealer, who wanted $350. 
Also, any info on group size or CCA would help.
thx.

Dimensions, stepped-down corners for the terminals.... It's Group 47. 
AutoZone has a Duralast brand Group 47 that looks like a perfect fit. 
Edit: PepBoys has BOSCH Group 47 & Group 48. 
Edit: Group 48 BOSCH battery installed.


_Modified by OOOO-A3 at 11:08 AM 11-25-2008_


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## CustomCooled (Feb 28, 2007)

I guess I should feel lucky. My battery started giving me problems around 70k. After dealing with having to jump the car every couple of days for about 2 weeks, I found a "neverstart" battery at Walmart which was the 1st place I looked. It was $62. The only issue I had was it was not as tallas Audi battery and the plastic box had to be removed so the Negative terminal cable would seat properly.


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## LEWXCORE (Jul 7, 2007)

*Re: battery question (sniper27)*

get on that 11.5 lb farbon ciber goodness my 









_Modified by LEWXCORE at 8:05 PM 11-15-2008_


_Modified by irishpride at 4:02 PM 11-23-2008_


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## terje_77 (Dec 19, 2005)

*Re: battery question (LEWXCORE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *LEWXCORE* »_get on that 11.5 lb farbon ciber goodness my 









_Modified by LEWXCORE at 8:05 PM 11-15-2008_











_Modified by irishpride at 4:03 PM 11-23-2008_


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## KnockKnock (Jun 30, 2005)

*Re: battery question (terje_77)*

First off - great thread. This should be stickied http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I was watching this post for the last week or two because my car was starting to crank a little slowly. Last night it was dicey. This morning, it barely turned over. Interestingly, I also noticed that the windows wouldn't work the moment I started up. I needed to give them another 15 sec and then they worked. Anyway, got to work, did a little research and calling around. Went to Pep Boys on Olive/Victory in Burbank.
They had the Bosch that OOOO-A3 alluded to above. Here are the specs:
Part No. 48-690B
Group Size: 48
SKU: 9073748
CCA @ 0 F: 690
[email protected] 32 F: 850
RC Mins @ 25A: 110
Pep Boys: $99.99 + $12 refundable core, 3 yr. replacement warrantee, 9 yr. prorated, whatever that means
Anyone have the specs from the original MOLL?
Dumb thing is that Pep Boy refused to install. Said German cars will kill the computer, the idle gets reset, the radio code gets reset, engine will crank and run if you're on the gas, but it'll die at idle. He had bad experiences with MB and BMW. I asked if it's the same with VW and he said yes. From this forum though, I was pretty confident I'd only get the window up/down reset. So I bought it and planned to do it back at the office... but the car wouldn't start! No turn over - just click-click-click. So I borrowed some tools from them (they had a bucket at the counter) and set out to do the swap myself.
As Audi'sRevenge stated, the hold-down plate notch didn't line up. Also the Bosch is a little bigger than the OEM Moll. Once I dropped it in, I came back to the office to re-seat it. The cushion sleeve that wraps around the original came up about 1" short in circumference, so I'd guess it's a little larger than stock. But fit is fine, the plastic encasings snap in fine as does the lid, so there's clearly a little more room if need be in there.
I rolled the windows down/up a few times, and the one-touch is working again. Also, I got the ESP warning when I first pulled out of the shop. It's gone now though. Overall: happy camper.





























p.s. 26 month old '07 with 43K miles - driven in Southern California ~50 miles/day, 1/3 city 2/3 freeway miles. If you ask me that's pretty poor OEM battery life. Then again this is the first new car I've had this century, and it's got a lot more electric toys.


_Modified by KnockKnock at 3:08 PM 11/21/2008_


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## Audi'sRevenge (Mar 24, 2008)

*Re: battery question (KnockKnock)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KnockKnock* »_The cushion sleeve that wraps around the original came up about 1" short in circumference, so I'd guess it's a little larger than stock.

Just a little note about the "cushion sleeve" for others that might be replacing their batteries. The sleeve is an _insulator_ and it is imperative that you retain that insulator when you replace the battery. The engine bay gets pretty hot and the insulator is there to protect the battery from heat--heat is what degrades batteries more quickly. (The guys with the 3.2L might not even have one of these as there's not really any heat in the trunk to insulate the battery from.)
Just thought I would mention that in case anyone is thinking "I don't need this" and throws it out.

_Quote, originally posted by *KnockKnock* »_Also, I got the ESP warning when I first pulled out of the shop. It's gone now though.

Yeah I totally freaked when I saw the ESP light/warning message come on! I thought I was going to have to take the car in to get checked out. Then I read the manual, where it talks about the ESP warning... It's 100% normal when you disconnect the battery. As soon as the vehicle is in motion and you turn the wheel again it will go out--guess it's just some ESP re-learn business.

_Quote, originally posted by *KnockKnock* »_p.s. 26 month old '07 with 43K miles - driven in Southern California ~50 miles/day, 1/3 city 2/3 freeway miles. If you ask me that's pretty poor OEM battery life. Then again this is the first new car I've had this century, and it's got a lot more electric toys.

It's probably the heat that kills it so fast, though if 3.2L guys are having the same problem with short battery life, then maybe it's just not all that great a battery. My original battery will be returned with my lease though, heh, that way at least I don't run into replacing the battery near the lease end, just to benefit them.


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## Bezor (Jan 16, 2007)

Sticky plz for future reference?


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## Audi'sRevenge (Mar 24, 2008)

*Re: (Bezor)*

Adding some photos








Stock battery:








Battery removed:








Red Top partially installed:








You can see from the 1st and 3rd pictures what I meant about the terminals being in slightly different locations, but not a big problem.
No you do not have to remove all that stuff around the battery like I did, I just did that so I could run a mainline/power wire to the battery and to get to the grommet in the firewall to pass the wire, it's a lot easier with that stuff removed.
I did replace the insulator as I mentioned (doesn't show there as it's not all put back together at that point).
Someone asked for the specifications... 
The stock battery seems to have the specs as follows:
60Ah (capacity, not sure how this is measured)
280A (DIN cranking amps? I'm not sure how this relates to our CA and CCA ratings)
480A "EN/SAE" (Not sure if this means it's 480CCA or 480CA, but I would really hope it's CCA because if that is CA, that's _really_ low).
The Red Top (75/25) by comparison is:
44Ah (capacity, measured by C/20 discharge rate--i.e. 2.2A draw)
720CCA (Cold Cranking Amps, measured @ -18C/0F)
910CA (Cranking Amps, measured @ 0C/32F)
90 min Reserve Capacity (Reserve Cap is a measure of how long a battery can deliver current, until dead, when 25A are drawn from it.)
As a note about capacity differences, though the Optima seems lower due to varying methods of testing this is largely considered a useless measurement for car batteries.
Also I just looked it up and it seems that DIN cranking amps are roughly equivalent to our Cold Cranking Amps, which would mean the stock battery has a seemingly ridiculously low 280CCA (!). I've really never seen a battery that size be that low, so maybe it's "underrated" or something?


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## OOOO-A3 (Jul 20, 2004)

*Re: (Bezor)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bezor* »_Sticky plz for future reference?

Just installed a proper Group 48 battery. Pics & posting on my site. 


_Modified by OOOO-A3 at 11:09 AM 11-25-2008_


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## Bezor (Jan 16, 2007)

*Re: (OOOO-A3)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Hesaputz (May 12, 2006)

*Re: (Audi'sRevenge)*

I used the Optima simply for peace of mind. It's my daughter's car, she and the baby live a long ways away. I've used red tops in other "battery eaters" with high under hood temps and had 'em last 5 years, which is the best you can expect from a well maintained premium battery. At $165, it was well worth it.
As I said, the only mod required was replacing the + post with a different angled one. I did make a small peg to keep the cover from touching the terms - other than that a direct fit.


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## sniper27 (Jan 22, 2001)

*Re: battery question (Audi'sRevenge)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Audi’sRevenge* »_
Just a little note about the "cushion sleeve" for others that might be replacing their batteries. The sleeve is an _insulator_ and it is imperative that you retain that insulator when you replace the battery. The engine bay gets pretty hot and the insulator is there to protect the battery from heat--heat is what degrades batteries more quickly. (The guys with the 3.2L might not even have one of these as there's not really any heat in the trunk to insulate the battery from.)
Just thought I would mention that in case anyone is thinking "I don't need this" and throws it out.

great...i threw mine out when i replaced the battery. any suggestions besides getting another one from the dealer?


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## Audi'sRevenge (Mar 24, 2008)

*Re: battery question (sniper27)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sniper27* »_
great...i threw mine out when i replaced the battery. any suggestions besides getting another one from the dealer? 

Well any type of closed-cell insulating foam sheet or similar would do the trick. Just get some of it and cut it out to fit, wrap it around the battery inside the box and you should be good http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## irishpride (Feb 2, 2006)

*Re: battery question (LEWXCORE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *LEWXCORE* »_get on that 11.5 lb farbon ciber goodness my 









_Modified by LEWXCORE at 8:05 PM 11-15-2008_

_Modified by irishpride at 4:02 PM 11-23-2008_

I have this battery in my Rabbit project, very nice product


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## Hesaputz (May 12, 2006)

*Re: battery question (irishpride)*

You bet! I'm using them in both of my 911 racers (regular ones, not the CF). A teriffic weight saver, great quality and performance, total waste of money on an A3


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## KnockKnock (Jun 30, 2005)

*Re: battery question (Hesaputz)*

Okay here's a picture. Guess I should have popped the + terminal's lid. It fits.










_Modified by KnockKnock at 9:55 PM 11/23/2008_


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## .:Reflex (Nov 2, 2006)

*Re: battery question (KnockKnock)*

Has anyone tried this? 
http://www.remybattery.com/Pro....aspx
From what I have read it looks as thought they make the Batteries for Braille. Looks like you can get them for about 1/2 of what Braille charges for their name. 
Feel free to correct me if I have my facts wrong.


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## Audi'sRevenge (Mar 24, 2008)

*Re: battery question (.:Reflex)*

^That's an AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) battery, not really the same thing as the Braille batts...
In an AGM battery, instead of having the battery as liquid inside the casing they use a "mat" material that soaks up the acid and holds it in.
AGM is the same thing as a spiral cell battery (Optima, Exide Orbital, etc.); however in a spiral cell they take the AGM and roll it in a spiral with each cell.
The principle advantages are the exact same as an Optima--increased vibration resistance, better resistance to heat and cold, and resultant better cell longevity.
AGM batteries are no lighter than spiral cells (or other traditional lead-acid car batteries), so they aren't like the Braille stuff.
Braille is more along the lines of stuff like Kinetik and BatCaps (800 and higher models):
http://www.kinetikaudio.com/default.asp
http://www.batcap.net/800.html
As I mentioned before the carbon fiber on the Brailles is just razzle dazzle and has little-to-nothing to do with functionality or weight savings as polypropylene isn't exactly heavy compared to carbon fiber. 
I heard of BatCap since back in the day (mid 90s) so I would go out on a limb and say Xstatic was the first to mass-market these small lightweight type batteries, but I could be wrong.



_Modified by Audi'sRevenge at 6:01 AM 11/25/2008_


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## OOOO-A3 (Jul 20, 2004)

*FV-QR*

Just installed a BOSCH Group 48 battery. Pics & posting on my site.


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## KnockKnock (Jun 30, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (OOOO-A3)*

Nice write-up. How do you like it? I guess there's not much glamour in batteries - I'll be taking it for granted within a week or two... but coming from a dying battery, it feels great.


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## OOOO-A3 (Jul 20, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (KnockKnock)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KnockKnock* »_Nice write-up. How do you like it? I guess there's not much glamour in batteries - I'll be taking it for granted within a week or two... but coming from a dying battery, it feels great.

It definitely kicks over faster, and it's probably all in my head but I swear the lights are brighter







It *is* great to not worry about the dreaded "RRRUuuunnnnhhhh...........<click><click><click><click><click>" especially when it's cold out.


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## yowzaa (Jul 31, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (OOOO-A3)*

Thanks for the excellent write-up. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## terje_77 (Dec 19, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (yowzaa)*

As usual, great writeup Len.


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## irishpride (Feb 2, 2006)

*Re: battery question (sniper27)*

bump added to the FAQ section


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## OCaudi (Nov 16, 2006)

*Re: battery question (KnockKnock)*

Just did mine this weekend. 
Everstart fits also...purchased from Walmart. $69.99 . 
Size 48-3


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## sniper27 (Jan 22, 2001)

*Re: battery question (OCaudi)*

what's the cca and warranty on the everstart?


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## Audi'sRevenge (Mar 24, 2008)

*Re: battery question (sniper27)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sniper27* »_what's the cca and warranty on the everstart?

From the pic it looks like 2yr (48mos.) free replacement and 72mos. total warranty. But can't make out anything else.


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## OCaudi (Nov 16, 2006)

*Re: battery question (Audi'sRevenge)*

yea, its two years. cca i believe was 680


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## dzasta (Sep 20, 2007)

My battery just died yesterday morning. My car is 15 months old with 27k miles. It wouldn't start even though a i have a garage. 
From what I read above, it seems the car battery is NOT covered under warranty. Hence everyone paying out of pocket to replace the battery. 
Can someone just confirm that battery is not covered under warranty? 
Is it possible to fit the Optima Red Top without modding the positive cable? If I'm spending 100+ on a battery I figure I spend a little more and get the best. If it fits, and all of covering fits, I will most likely get this one. 
Thanks for all the info everyone~


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

*FV-QR*

I would have to agree, by opinion, that the battery isn't covered under warranty b/c its more wear/tear...unless of course the battery is brand new and faulty. I think anything over 12 months, they prob. won't change it out for you but you never know...some dealers like their customers


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## bbbobbb (Feb 4, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (krazyboi)*

By experience, it is NOT covered after 12,000 miles/12 months....I was at 12,700 and 13.5 months. Raised hell (in a very nice way of course) to the dealer, no go, to Audi, no go. 
Then the the cust sat 3rd party called to see how satisfied I was with the repair and I told them how dissatisfied I was with this "policy" while making sure that I said the dealer was fine. Got a call back in a few days from the dealer basically agreeing with me that even though we live in the desert (Tucson) ANY battery should last a couple of years. They said they would go to Audi for "customer satisfaction" dollars. Nothing happened for a week but then I got a check for the full amount reimbursed, $187. Much happier now.








Question for those with the group 48's, does the top cover no longer fit?
I couldn't tell from the write-ups if this was discarded.


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## sniper27 (Jan 22, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (bbbobbb)*

damn, i should raise hell and see if i can get "customer satisfaction" dollar. 
but yes, the battery top fits over group 48. it's just wider so the insulation thing doesn't fit around the battery anymore.


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## OOOO-A3 (Jul 20, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (bbbobbb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bbbobbb* »_Question for those with the group 48's, does the top cover no longer fit?
I couldn't tell from the write-ups if this was discarded. 

Top cover fits just fine. Only dimensional difference between 47 and 48 is the length. The width & height are the same.
The insulating pad does go around the Group 48 as well, you just have to undo it. It goes around without overlapping the ends.


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## Bezor (Jan 16, 2007)

The glass mat battery by Panasonic in both my Miatas lasted oh, 8 years....each.


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## dzasta (Sep 20, 2007)

Car died on me again this morning. Second time in 2 days. I'm going to buy a new battery during lunch. 
Can anyone post pics of the Optima Red installed? If i get the 75/25 (75/35) it should just be a simple plug and play correct with no modding of any terminals?
UPDATE:
Just bought and installed the everstart battery from walmart (couldn't find an optima anywhere). I got the 48-3 but it looks different than the one OCaudi put on. Perhaps its a newer model as it claims 700CCA instead of 680CCA. 
Observations:
If you line up hold down plate notch with the notch on the battery then the negative terminal will not fit perfectly like 
CustomCooled mentioned in the 1st page. Its almost as if the height of the battery is shorter than the OEM. I will re-adjust the battery when I get home so the terminal sits perfectly. Pics to follow...










_Modified by dzasta at 3:06 PM 12-9-2008_


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## xosrow (May 19, 2006)

*Re: (dzasta)*

My battery died this morning as well. And to top it off we had about 10cm of snow here in Montreal. So I had to trek it out and buy one of those battery chargers to get myself to work. 
Funny thing is, the battery has been off-and-on since the first year I got it. First time it died was when I was gone for 2 weeks after only 1 year of ownership. I chalked it down as me forgetting and leaving one of those plugin air-fresheners.
Then I went for vacation last year and it died. This time, I put it down as the fault of DICE. Each time, I would simply jump-start and all would be well. This morning however was totally uncalled for. I drove the car on Sunday, didn't drive on Monday and then today the battery was dead. The air-freshener was not plugged in, and I doubt that the DICE could have drained the battery in under 48 hours.
Anyway, sounds like I am another victim of the battery-life on our A3's. Thanks to all you guys for the various write-ups and solutions, I'll be looking for a replacement battery and won't waste my time at the dealer!


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## jmanlay (Nov 28, 2005)

*Re: (xosrow)*

Question, my battery is about to die. I have 19,000.00 miles on my 2006 A3. I know I don't drive much but apart from that I have two lights that stay on the dashboard (the ESP one and the Orange Steering Wheel). I drive about 100 yards and then they turn off. Anyone seen that before? could it be linked to a very weak battery? I am also having issues with the one touch up/down window button.








Thanks


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## mike3141 (Feb 16, 1999)

*Re: (jmanlay)*

The lights and windows problems occur anytime the battery is disconnected. Yours is probably due to the weak battery.


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## yakkonvazn (Jan 14, 2003)

since this is in the FAQs, we should start listing prices as well. Also, free replacement warranty and total warranty. Core trade in is always 12 bux.


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## jmanlay (Nov 28, 2005)

*Re: (mike3141)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mike3141* »_The lights and windows problems occur anytime the battery is disconnected. Yours is probably due to the weak battery.

I just got back from Walmart paid $63 for everlast battery. Fits pretty good, a bit tight and not much room for the wrap around insulation.
Anyhow, ESP and Steering lights are gone but my window problem is still there = trip to the Stealer.


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## OOOO-A3 (Jul 20, 2004)

*Re: (jmanlay)*

Press and hold the window-down switch until the window is all the way down + 10 seconds. Then do the same thing in the 'up' direction. Then power-cycle the car and try the auto open/close again.


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## KnockKnock (Jun 30, 2005)

*Re: (OOOO-A3)*

x2
x3
that is... try the up all the way, down all the way - full cycle several times if once doesn't do the trick.


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## .:Reflex (Nov 2, 2006)

*Re: battery question (KnockKnock)*

Where are you guys finding the Bosch batteries?


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## jmanlay (Nov 28, 2005)

*Re: (OOOO-A3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *OOOO-A3* »_Press and hold the window-down switch until the window is all the way down + 10 seconds. Then do the same thing in the 'up' direction. Then power-cycle the car and try the auto open/close again.

That worked the first time around. Thanks for the help. It saved me a trip to my famous Stealer.


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## xosrow (May 19, 2006)

*Re: (yakkonvazn)*

I was too lazy and bought an Enertec battery from the dealer, price $135 CAD.
Here's a comparison with the original Moll battery. 








The fit was perfect, and took me no time to replace.


_Modified by xosrow at 11:19 PM 12-28-2008_


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## vince954 (Dec 17, 2008)

*Re: battery question (sniper27)*

I read this post and the very next weekend I noticed that my 07 with 25k would barely start, did a load test and the battery is indeed weak. called the dealer who says no warranty left on it and a new one is $192. went to local autoparts store and picked up the Optima 75/35 red top and installed it, fit nicely with minor adjustments to the cables. now starts great.
I have used these Optima batteries in the past in cars that run hot or if they seem to eat batteries, always with great results, even if you draw them down to nothing they seem to recover nicely when you charge them. last way longer too...


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## GTINC (Jan 28, 2005)

*Re: battery question (sniper27)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sniper27* »_Searched and read about people's battery dying around 30k miles. Yesterday, my car almost didn't start at 29k miles. 

I think battery life is more an issue of time, not miles. With your car being 2 to 3 years old, could be due. However, if you do a lot of short trip use ( high start cycle to run time ratio), the battery could just need a good charge. Remember, the folks that tested it likely sell batteries.


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## sniper27 (Jan 22, 2001)

*Re: battery question (GTINC)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GTINC* »_
I think battery life is more an issue of time, not miles. With your car being 2 to 3 years old, could be due. However, if you do a lot of short trip use ( high start cycle to run time ratio), the battery could just need a good charge. Remember, the folks that tested it likely sell batteries.

did a test and recharge. still died about a week later. being winter (yes, still gets somewhat cold in s. ca







) i didn't want to bother with it and just got a new one.


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## .:Reflex (Nov 2, 2006)

*Re: battery question (sniper27)*

On its way! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif $209 with 5% off and free shipping (holiday sale). Perhaps I am just an idiot considering a $69 Everstart works.







Thats what credit cards are for right?








Cranking Amps 30 sec @ 80F: 1560
Cranking Amps 30 sec @ 32F: 1285
Cold Cranking Amps 30 sec @ 0F: 945
Reserve Capacity: Over 120 minutes
Capacity (C/20 rate): 75 amp hr


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## JOSER2K (Mar 11, 2006)

*Re: battery question (Hesaputz)*

i just hit 29,100 miles and my car died on me 
it didnt start at all, i was like wth but they said it was the battery and i checked it
and yeap the battery was no good so im guessing once u hit almost 30k miles
your battery dies lol but eh 3yr's is not that bad ..


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## dmorrow (Jun 9, 2000)

*Re: battery question (JOSER2K)*

I agree that it is more about time and how the car is driven than miles. I am at 71K on the original battery and may consider changing it even though I don't have any issues right now.


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## krazyboi (May 19, 2004)

*Re: battery question (dmorrow)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dmorrow* »_I agree that it is more about time and how the car is driven than miles. I am at 71K on the original battery and may consider changing it even though I don't have any issues right now.

2nd. I'm at 59k on original battery. Drive it daily and it probably hasn't sit for longer then 8 days w/o a start.


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## aeitingon (Mar 21, 2005)

*Re: battery question (krazyboi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *krazyboi* »_
2nd. I'm at 59k on original battery. Drive it daily and it probably hasn't sit for longer then 8 days w/o a start.

Batteries in the 3.2 will last longer as they are in the trunk - not as hot back there...


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## Audi'sRevenge (Mar 24, 2008)

*Re: (dzasta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dzasta* »_Car died on me again this morning. Second time in 2 days. I'm going to buy a new battery during lunch. 
Can anyone post pics of the Optima Red installed? If i get the 75/25 (75/35) it should just be a simple plug and play correct with no modding of any terminals?








I posted these pics on page 1 of this thread! No modding was involved, just pushing back the negative wire a bit and putting the battery hold-down "off-notch". Otherwise it fit fine.
Anyway good to know you got a new battery and everything is fine once more 


_Modified by Audi'sRevenge at 4:35 PM 1/3/2009_


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## Rogerthat (Oct 23, 2005)

Well I've had my car since July 2005 and it's 700 miles shy of 80k and my battery finally died yesterday morning. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I went to pep boys and bought the same bosch battery quattro zero a three recommended.
Check out the funny.................this may explain why my battery has lasted longer then some of you other guys.
I didn't have a moll battery. As you can see I was pretty lazy about cleaning/keeping up with corrosion build up on the negative side. My father said there was tons of build up on it when he went to jump the car for my wife. The last time i cleaned it off was 10,000 miles ago.
















The bosch was slightly smaller and the grooves on the base didn't exactly match where the bracket holds it in place. Also, the original battery did not have that insulator sleeve.

























Just as I expected, this was very easy to replace and I had no issues paying $99 for something I felt ran a good life span. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 



_Modified by Rogerthat at 8:22 AM 9-12-2009_


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## Machnickiⓐⓤⓓⓘ (May 14, 2008)

*Re: (Rogerthat)*

I predict my battery won't make it to the end of this week. 2007 2.0 49,000. A couple of slow starts past few days. The only thing keeping it alive over night is unplugging the ipod, escort and chargers.
I'm thinking I'm going with a Bosch.


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## yowzaa (Jul 31, 2007)

*Re: (MachnickiA3)*

Mine died today. 29K almost on the dot. WFT.


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## LEWXCORE (Jul 7, 2007)

*FV-QR*

My battery died this week. 36k on the stock battery seems to be a nice run for a 2.0T A3 lol.
I replaced it with the odyssey pc680
24 lbs saved there. Weight reduction in a 3200lb hatch ftw?? lol not so much... well at least i probably recooped the weight I added with the fmic.




_Modified by LEWXCORE at 12:59 AM 9-16-2009_


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## -PTK- (Jan 6, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (LEWXCORE)*

My car had been starting weak for some time, but the other day it just barely started, so I decided it was time to swap. Battery has just under 3 years and just over 25k miles on it.
I went to AutoZone and picked up an Optima Red Top 75/25, based on people's recommendations in this thread. It cost $155 + tax with trade in. I installed it in the lot without too much trouble, and it was the first battery I had installed. One question I have for other people that installed this battery, did you have the rotate the negative cable a lot to get it to hook on to the terminal? Also, since I couldn't get the hold down notch to line up with the battery notch, the battery seems to wiggle a little more when I rock it then the stock one did. It doesn't move at all, I was just wondering if this is ok.








When I started the car up for the first time it sort of freaked me out. The engine idled all crazy and lots of malfunction lights were lit. I tried driving in the parking lot but it just stalled out. I turned it off and when I restarted it seemed fine. I completed the window procedure and now everything seems fine. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I did notice on the drive home that the car seemed to have reverted to APR stock mode, and confirmed this when I got back. After setting it back to the 93 program everything was really all good. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by -PTK- at 4:16 PM 9-21-2009_


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## dndodd (Apr 11, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (-PTK-)*

I replaced my battery with a group 48 several weeks ago at 49K. 
I took it to the dealer for an oil leak and two bad CV boots. First off they didn't like the aftermarket battery and said it was leaking acid on the transmission. I informed them that the acid was from the stock battery.
The new Battery has a vent tube which I added hose to to take it the acid to the ground. This is how it is done on my 911 too.

The Service Adviser whom I trust said I really needed to neutralize the acid so I have with a combination of Coke, Baking Soda, and water.
The other thing he was emphatic about was that when you change the battery if you don't put the exact battery back in as far as AMPS etc that settings do need to be changed in the system. I assume this can be done with a Vag Com. 
So those of you experiencing minor or odd problems probably need to take your car to the dealer or to some one with the VAG Com and set your system to the battery.
Beyond that my trip to the dealer was a total bust. Two broken CV boots at the axle clamp and they won't warranty it just out of factory warranty.
For the life of me I can't see how this is not mfg defect. See the thread Neat-O for pictures of this problem.
I have a definite oil wetness or leak where the engine and transmission mate. Audi won't fix that until they see drops of oil and I had wiped some of it off.
I definitely see NON Audi-VW-Porsche cars in my future.


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## Audi'sRevenge (Mar 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (-PTK-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-PTK-* »_One question I have for other people that installed this battery, did you have the rotate the negative cable a lot to get it to hook on to the terminal? Also, since I couldn't get the hold down notch to line up with the battery notch, the battery seems to wiggle a little more when I rock it then the stock one did. It doesn't move at all, I was just wondering if this is ok.









Yes, in fact that's _exactly_ what I described earlier!









_Quote, originally posted by *Audi'sRevenge* »_
A couple weekends ago I swapped in a 75/35 Red Top I had sitting aroudn (think they actually CALL it a 75/25 but the group size is 75/35--weird); went in with little difficulty. The terminals could actually be considered "reversed" on the stock battery compared to the Optima but on the Optima they are more in the middle rather than off to either side so it works out easy enough, you just have to push back the negative wire a bit.
The only thing was the battery hold-down notch didn't line up with the notch in the battery properly, well it did but putting it there the battery box cover wouldn't go back on because the battery was too far forward and the clasp on the box cover just hit the battery terminal. So I just moved the battery rearward a bit more (towards the pax compartment) and tightened down the hold down off the detent/notch and it still holds it fine.


_Quote, originally posted by *-PTK-* »_When I started the car up for the first time it sort of freaked me out. The engine idled all crazy and lots of malfunction lights were lit. I tried driving in the parking lot but it just stalled out. I turned it off and when I restarted it seemed fine. I completed the window procedure and now everything seems fine. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

The warning light for the ESP is normal, not sure why it stalled originally though. Glad to hear it's working fine now though


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## Audi'sRevenge (Mar 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (dndodd)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dndodd* »_I replaced my battery with a group 48 several weeks ago at 49K. 
I took it to the dealer for an oil leak and two bad CV boots. First off they didn't like the aftermarket battery and said it was leaking acid on the transmission. I informed them that the acid was from the stock battery.
The new Battery has a vent tube which I added hose to to take it the acid to the ground. This is how it is done on my 911 too.

Batteries don't leak [liquid] acid unless they are cracked or something. The vents in any battery are in case they need to vent sulphuric acid _gas_. Liquid should not come out of the battery unless it is getting severely overcharged and the elctrolyte is boiling. The H2SO4 gas may, of course condense on something, which is how you get corrosion on things like terminals or things nearby; but it shouldn't cause the transmission case to start corroding. If that's the case there has to be some sort of problem either with the battery or the charging system.

_Quote, originally posted by *dndodd* »_The Service Adviser whom I trust said I really needed to neutralize the acid so I have with a combination of Coke, Baking Soda, and water.

If battery acid has leaked then he's right you do need to neutralise it but Coke? WTF?







Baking soda & water, yes; but Coke? Never heard of that. Coke is acidic as it is. Baking soda has a pH of 10.x, Coke is like 3.4 (depending on variety)! H2SO4 is -3 apparently, but the concentration in battery acid is said to be a little below 0. So yeah Coke is "more base" than battery acid, but it's still an acid being under 7.0. Baking soda is much better used here than Coke.

_Quote, originally posted by *dndodd* »_The other thing he was emphatic about was that when you change the battery if you don't put the exact battery back in as far as AMPS etc that settings do need to be changed in the system. I assume this can be done with a Vag Com. 
So those of you experiencing minor or odd problems probably need to take your car to the dealer or to some one with the VAG Com and set your system to the battery.

Haven't experienced any "odd problems" thankfully, since I put the Optima in last November. Also nice to know dealers try to blame you for crap like battery acid from aftermarket batteries







Let them try that with an Optima, LOL.


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## dndodd (Apr 11, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Audi'sRevenge)*

Yeah I thought the Coke was different too. It was what the Service Adviser recommended.


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## -PTK- (Jan 6, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Audi'sRevenge)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Audi’sRevenge* »_
Yes, in fact that's _exactly_ what I described earlier!










Yeah, I had seen that before I installed it. I guess I didn't appreciate just how much I'd be twisting the negative cable to get it on the post. Maybe I'll take a picture of it installed to show how I have it now.
The reason I had asked about the hold down notch was I wondered it maybe I hadn't tightened it enough off the notch. It doesn't feel like it is going anywhere, I guess I just wanted to confirm that other people's wasn't exactly as firm as the OEM was on the notch.
I'm wondering if maybe the reason it had stalled was it was reloading the APR program or something and I didn't notice and interrupted it by starting the engine. It has seemed fine since then though.
Thanks for the previous write up, it definitely helped.


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## -PTK- (Jan 6, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (dndodd)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dndodd* »_The other thing he was emphatic about was that when you change the battery if you don't put the exact battery back in as far as AMPS etc that settings do need to be changed in the system. I assume this can be done with a Vag Com.

Hmm... I hope this isn't too critical, otherwise I'll be nervous that something is going to get messed up by my battery swap.


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## OOOO-A3 (Jul 20, 2004)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dndodd* »_The other thing he was emphatic about was that when you change the battery if you don't put the exact battery back in as far as AMPS etc that settings do need to be changed in the system. I assume this can be done with a Vag Com. 

100% Audi-certified bullshiat. Make them SHOW you exactly what they have to 'change' with their 5052 computer. They can't, unless they've patented new laws of physics. 


_Quote, originally posted by *dndodd* »_I definitely see NON Audi-VW-Porsche cars in my future.

THAT is the mother****ing truth.


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## dmorrow (Jun 9, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (dndodd)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dndodd* »_
The other thing he was emphatic about was that when you change the battery if you don't put the exact battery back in as far as AMPS etc that settings do need to be changed in the system. I assume this can be done with a Vag Com. 


I'm not buying this at all. So the amps are what start the car, when the battery is new it is putting out very close to the amps listed on the battery. All car batteries are 12v and the system runs at some number higher than this all of the time (I believe around 13-14 V but not sure). As the battery gets older the amps it puts out slowly go down until at some point it may drop right off or be too small to start the car. This is why when people put a new battery, even when the old one was still working they are surprised at how quickly it turns over and starts. I guess to do exactly what he recommends you really need to take it in every 6 months or so, find out how many amps your battery is currently putting out and get them to adjust it on Vag Com.


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## dndodd (Apr 11, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (dmorrow)*

I thought it was FUBAR too. Just passing along what I was told. I am sure someone here has Vag com and could easily check.
In addition I have checked my Elsa Audi Repair Manual I bought on e-bay and here is what it says;
The following steps are required after reconnecting the battery:
- When reconnecting battery, activate vehicle equipment(radio navigation system, clock , electric window lifters) in accordance with the ownwers manual.
- Further measures after reconnecting the voltage supply - Rep. Gr 24 (My note haven't figured this one out yet)
- Check proper function of remote control keys, adapt keys if necessary, inform customer that all additional keys must be adapted to ensure that the remote control works properly - owners manual
- Before the engine can be started for the first time, the key must be inserted and the ignition switched "on" for 5 seconds. (I didn't do this and it probably why my car stalled the first time I started it)
-Check DTC memories of all control modules and erase any "LOW voltage" DTC's if necessary. Use VAS 5051/5052 in operating mode "Guided Fault Finding"
- After re-connecting battery, the ESP indicator will go out anly after driving a distance of several miles.


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## Xymox (Jul 1, 1999)

*Re: battery question (Hesaputz)*

FYI,
Advanced Auto Parts carries an Autocraft (91-1) which is compatible with our cars. It's $98.99. A $10 OFF $25 or more coupon can be found here: http://advancegrandopenings.com/ Bringing the total to $89.99.
Autocraft 91-1
2 year free replacement
6 year pro-rate


_Modified by Xymox at 9:47 PM 10-11-2009_


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## -j- (Jan 15, 2006)

Looks like I have to replace mine too. 58K miles and I've noticed the cranking to be labored and the window controls are not responding right away. I have not seen the ESP come on yet, but I have a 2 hour drive to go and I hope I don't run into any issues. Crossing my fingers.


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## Xymox (Jul 1, 1999)

*Re: (-j-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-j-* »_Looks like I have to replace mine too. 58K miles and I've noticed the cranking to be labored and the window controls are not responding right away. I have not seen the ESP come on yet, but I have a 2 hour drive to go and I hope I don't run into any issues. Crossing my fingers.

Replace that sucker now. Same crap happened to be. It will soon leave you stranded.


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## -j- (Jan 15, 2006)

*Re: (Xymox)*

Heck yeah! It's the first thing I do after school tomorrow.


_Modified by -j- at 2:39 PM 11-9-2009_


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## vms150 (Mar 28, 2008)

I realize this is an old thread but I just wanted to update it rather than start a new one. I followed the suggestions here and got an Optima Red Top 75/25 battery to replace my dying OEM one. It fits perfectly with no issues. It fits in the plastic box easily with the soft wrap on it. The hold down clamp works perfectly with no problems and the cover fits and shut fine. The ONLY thing I needed to do was unbent the negative cable and re-bend it about 1.5" farther up to account for the slightly different terminal location. No bending needed for the positive cable. It goes for about $145 on Amazon and considering the reliability and peace of mind, I consider it a good deal. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00075OSBK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 
Photos of battery mounted and how the box and cover still fit perfectly.


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## CorrieG60 (Jan 18, 2004)

I recently put in a 2.8lbs(yes, that light...) LiFePo4 battery in mine, rated at 420CCA. After making a box out of Styrofoam it fits like a glove! Starts the car just fine at 5degrees Celsius after sitting for 3 weeks..


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

CorrieG60 said:


> I recently put in a 2.8lbs(yes, that light...) LiFePo4 battery in mine, rated at 420CCA. After making a box out of Styrofoam it fits like a glove! Starts the car just fine at 5degrees Celsius after sitting for 3 weeks..


What battery / brand is it?


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## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

CorrieG60 said:


> I recently put in a 2.8lbs(yes, that light...) LiFePo4 battery in mine, rated at 420CCA. After making a box out of Styrofoam it fits like a glove! Starts the car just fine at 5degrees Celsius after sitting for 3 weeks..


You may want to consider using a different material. Styrofoam is highly flammable. It also generates static electricity, which can discharge to your battery terminals/cables, which could damage the battery or other electronics. And battery acid, oil, gas, etc. will all dissolve it.


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## Bronco (Mar 3, 2011)

Just chipping' in ... in 9 years, I am on my 3rd battery, so average about 4-5 years (I expected more as I live in Vancouver, BC mild climate). Have bought my last battery in Costco for about CAD $100, Kirkland brand, obviously. ;-) Fits fine.


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## beep-beep (Sep 27, 2002)

seems you can get one from Audi for $132:

http://www.parts.audiusa.com/parts/...ELECTRICAL&subgroup=BATTERY&component=Battery


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

Iam on my 3rd battery in 5 years. Last time I installed a slightly oversized Bosh and is doing great, way better than the others


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> Iam on my 3rd battery in 5 years. Last time I installed a slightly oversized Bosh and is doing great, way better than the others


Lots of batteries. :screwy:


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

SilverSquirrel said:


> Lots of batteries. :screwy:


yup lots of them, crossing fingers this one bigger holds up. at least is summer godzilla el nino here and its doing pretty good with the warm wheater, wich is the season of the battery swap here lol. seriously since I got this car every summer I had to swap for a new battery


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## npace (Sep 3, 2012)

I'm still on the factory battery, but I'm looking for a lightweight alternative.


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> yup lots of them, crossing fingers this one bigger holds up. at least is summer godzilla el nino here and its doing pretty good with the warm wheater, wich is the season of the battery swap here lol. seriously since I got this car every summer I had to swap for a new battery


why so hot?
i thought Chile was chilly. almost the south pole:snowcool:


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

SilverSquirrel said:


> why so hot?
> i thought Chile was chilly. almost the south pole:snowcool:


yeah Chile has all kind of weather, from the Antartica to over here in the north, wich is the world's driest desert, like Africa's deserts but in a way smaller thin country from sea to the "cordillera de los andes". Here in Iquique is hot but not that hot like Acapulco in Mexico, but the heat still craps out the so-so batteries. 
The south is very cold, it goes to just in front of the Antartica  eace:


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## CorrieG60 (Jan 18, 2004)

npace said:


> What battery / brand is it?


It's a Beltenick battery.
And I wasn't using Styrofoam, but poly-urethane but I didn't come up with the word yesterday....


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## SilverSquirrel (Jul 24, 2006)

2006_A3_2.0T said:


> yeah Chile has all kind of weather, from the Antartica to over here in the north, wich is the world's driest desert, like Africa's deserts but in a way smaller thin country from sea to the "cordillera de los andes". Here in Iquique is hot but not that hot like Acapulco in Mexico, but the heat still craps out the so-so batteries.
> The south is very cold, it goes to just in front of the Antartica  eace:


Just checked out Iquique on the google.
Wow. Nice!


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## 2006_A3_2.0T (Jan 11, 2013)

SilverSquirrel said:


> Just checked out Iquique on the google.
> Wow. Nice!


nice! One of the most beautiful chilean landscapes is "Patagonia", a small piece of land located in the southest end, it has all kind of landscape and things:

https://www.google.cl/search?q=pata...ved=0ahUKEwjZtOX3vtnJAhWIC5AKHfpMBdMQ_AUIBigB


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