# My HTA3582 stroker build



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Hi ive been on here a little while now but mainly in the background lurking just for the interesting and valuable info in the FAQ's and various other threads....

I will give you a quick run down of me and the car as helps when all the details are there when I'm asking for advice or questions as have got a few...

I'm 25 year old Male (with a strange name) live in the UK and am a mechanical/electrical engineer in the print industry

Got an audi S3 8l which have now had for 4 years it is used as a daily but is usually thrashed to an inch of its life with occasional track and strip use, have been through the usual stage1/2 mods followed by a MTM K26 conversion with a good few other bits but have as usual decided i want more power 

Spec of the new build (what is already on the car/in the new engine or waiting to be fitted)

Block
06A Block bored to 83mm with tfsi 92.8mm crank with dowel pinned pulley
JE 9.0cr pistons with tool steel wrist pins, coated crowns and skirts
Tuscan Rods, calico main and big end bearings +1 thou clearance
Baffled sump
IE manual tensioner

Head
AEB largeport head ported and polished by [email protected]
Ferrea valves, springs and retainers
IE inlet mani with hemi TB and IE fuel rail
Cams??.....To be continued
TSR V-banded exhaust manifold with 38mm runners

GTX3071r 0.82 Tial Hotside, compact comp cover with 3' inlet
MVR 44mm wastegate
Will be having a 3' downpipe made @ badger5 as well as mapping
AH Fabs V2 FMIC
AEM WMI (currently running the small nozzle)
870cc injectors with bosch 044 inline in the oem filter location

Suspension, brakes etc
334mm r32 discs with cayenne 18z calipers
300mm s4 rear discs
Polybushed all round
Ground control top mounts
forge rear adjustable tie arms
H&R Coilovers

Couple of pics of the project engine and car






































Sorry for the rather large introduction, hope i havent bored anyone lol, but thought its easier to get everything up so people know what they're advising me on as thought it was easier to have one thread rather than post spec etc up everytime i want to ask a question

Cheers


----------



## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

love your car and sick build ..:thumbup::thumbup:

it's gonna be a monster!!:beer:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*



BR_337 said:


> love your car and sick build ..:thumbup::thumbup:
> 
> it's gonna be a monster!!:beer:


Cheers mate :beer:

I hope it will be a monster as that is the ultimate goal and hopefully still reasonably responsive 

If there's anything that anyone can see that they'd advise I would need or anything that they feel isn't right or poor match then fire away as am open to advice and suggestions

Cheers


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Forgot to add I have got a build thread on Audi-sport.net which is the forum I usually use but am finding it very interesting in this subforum with a lot more tech info and discussions :beer:

Here's a link to my build thread if anyone is interested

http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-...elated-yo-yo-build-thread-24.html#post1753999


----------



## Three3Se7en (Jul 2, 2007)

IE needs to bring their asses on with those cams! I love the build. Car looks good too.


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*



Three3Se7en said:


> IE needs to bring their asses on with those cams! I love the build. Car looks good too.


Cheers mate :beer:

Have been hoping and waiting on the IE cams for a while but may go with some catcam options if they don't materialise soon? Am looking at the 3651's and 3658's but really not sure at the mo...keep changing my mind on a daily basis

On another note do people think I will be needing a surge tank with my spec as would have thought I would be near the limit of what an inline 044 can supply?

Cheers


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

:beer:


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

StaceyS3 said:


> Cheers mate :beer:
> 
> Have been hoping and waiting on the IE cams for a while but may go with some catcam options if they don't materialise soon? Am looking at the 3651's and 3658's but really not sure at the mo...keep changing my mind on a daily basis
> 
> ...


I'm going with catcams 3651 intake at 10 degrees and keeping the stock exhaust cam. Believe this option is close to the "custom" cam option that Bob Q came up with when he compared the different catcams. Not sure where to find that comparison tho...


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Ah... I did wonder what that custom set up was as it looked very impressive

Iirc didn't have the biggest gains but did have next to no losses low down and in the midrange


----------



## Rumpelstilzchen (Oct 24, 2009)

What clutch setup are you planning on running?

Build looks good:beer:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*



Rumpelstilzchen said:


> What clutch setup are you planning on running?
> 
> Build looks good:beer:


Cheers appriciate it :beer:

Had forgot to put that in my spec list.....am currently running southbend stage 2 daily with their smf but as last time I looked it was looking worse for wear I've bought a southbend 6 puck friction plate to drop in


----------



## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

What kind of printing do you guys do Stacey?

Great build :thumbup:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*



screwball said:


> What kind of printing do you guys do Stacey?
> 
> Great build :thumbup:


Cheers :beer:

Web offset for magazines with binding and stitching also on site


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Couple of Q's

Has anyone bothered to plumb in tial wastegates to the coolant or just run them with it disconnected?

Will 60mm charge pipe work be to small (or be a restriction) at the power levels i could be acheiving? as i know ideally when i made them i should have done them in 63mm....live and learn


----------



## 3WheelnGTi (Jan 19, 2008)

opcorn:


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Cool build, with all top tier parts:beer:

Why the 82 Ar hot side though? Kinda defeats the purpose of a 307xx series don't you think?


----------



## superkarl (Dec 18, 2012)

Thats a fail with the boost piping stacey lol. Yiu using the old stuff youre already running?

Rod ratio, whats uo with that hotside? Flow well up top wont it


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*



superkarl said:


> Thats a fail with the boost piping stacey lol. Yiu using the old stuff youre already running?
> 
> Rod ratio, whats uo with that hotside? Flow well up top wont it


Not worth it; since it totally kills the spool. Might as well run a 35r if you want that kinda lag.


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Have been worried about the spool on this as do want a pretty responsive car but am going to see how it goes?

In hindsight I would have gone for Arnold's .72ar but didn't know it existed 

Does anyone know if his v-banded .72 hotside has the same distances from flange to flange as the tial so would be a straight swap without downpipe mods?










Here's a power graph of a car with very simular spec, same ex mani (which is believed to help spool with smaller than average dia runners), very simular block and head spec, he's running a sem where as I will be running IE inlet, the turbo is a hta3071 which I know will spool quicker but if mines anything like this then will be over the moon


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*



superkarl said:


> Thats a fail with the boost piping stacey lol. Yiu using the old stuff youre already running?


Yeah at the mo am on the edge of redoing it all? But am undecided as its another cost and thing to do?

Here's the current piping (although sprayed matt black)










Ideally 63mm would be better than the current 60mm, and would reroute where the battery sits but have been holding out as will have to relocate the battery somewhere else, which I will probably get 2 smaller battery's and put them in the spare wheel well.....umm decisions decisions....have to draw a line somewhere?


----------



## badger5 (Nov 17, 2003)

StaceyS3 said:


> Have been worried about the spool on this as do want a pretty responsive car but am going to see how it goes?
> 
> In hindsight I would have gone for Arnold's .72ar but didn't know it existed
> 
> ...


note: boost is brought in slower deliberately... thats not the inherant spool, its held back as its a 2wd LCR this is fitted to and manic wheelspin is an issue..
Not going to be restricted on 4wd platform, where if desired full on boost onset = tractive power.


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*



badger5 said:


> note: boost is brought in slower deliberately... thats not the inherant spool, its held back as its a 2wd LCR this is fitted to and manic wheelspin is an issue..
> Not going to be restricted on 4wd platform, where if desired full on boost onset = tractive power.


Did forget that part :beer:

Can see where it starts to come alive though, will be good with power going to all 4


----------



## superkarl (Dec 18, 2012)

300ftlbs by 4k aint bad at all, and if you could have that 500rpm sooner it will be nice. Plus its an s3 so it will naturally be better than the lcr.


----------



## badger5 (Nov 17, 2003)

superkarl said:


> 300ftlbs by 4k aint bad at all, and if you could have that 500rpm sooner it will be nice. Plus its an s3 so it will naturally be better than the lcr.


lol @ better

better suited for more power whilst having to carry its additional 4wd baggage

(still better tho  )


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

S3 ftw

Although have really gotta get my hands on some type of haldex controller at some point to make it more like a permanent 4wd


----------



## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

StaceyS3 said:


> S3 ftw
> 
> Although have really gotta get my hands on some type of haldex controller at some point to make it more like a permanent 4wd


Something to consider... http://www.hpamotorsport.com/haldex.htm (scroll to the bottom)

*EDIT:* They do go on sale but only once or twice a year and for $100 off.


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Cheers :beer:

Have seen some really good reviews on the hpa (orange/silver) controller and would prefer that over the blue but have been wishfully waiting for a reasonably priced used one to come up although i expect I will end up having to buy new


----------



## lewp91 (May 9, 2011)

i'll be following this Stacey, as we've spoken before, and you're basically running the same components I plan on using in a mk1 rocco  :beer: opcorn: 

i'm however looking at using a .63 hotside and waiting for Garrett to bring out their own version of a s/s turbine housing (saw the prototype at autosport international 2013)


----------



## superkarl (Dec 18, 2012)

Stacey check out the thread titled 'gtx options', guy is doing some crazy **** with compressor maps of the gtx3071 (not that i fully understand them), but its interesting.


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Cheers mate have been following it closely as it is really interesting

If you wanna know more about compressor maps there's info on garretts website


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Badger - where is the stock DV? I kid, I kid...


----------



## badger5 (Nov 17, 2003)

18T_BT said:


> Badger - where is the stock DV? I kid, I kid...


lol - i get ya 

supersize for this one..


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Stalking this..... 

Guess those 870cc will be gone soon eh?


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Yeah they will be on eBay in the next 24 hours, thank you very much for sorting them out for me and Superkarl who is also on here :beer:

Can't wait to see what the 1000cc genisis 2's can do and if I ever put a bigger blower on I can just up the pressure


----------



## superkarl (Dec 18, 2012)

Awesome :thumbup:


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

im excited to see how far you can take them


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Saved to build thread


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*



groggory said:


> Saved to build thread


 Cheers :beer:

Not a lot to update

Have started to make my own billet coolant flange and have sent all exhaust parts off to be ceramic coated to will have to wait for a couple of weeks on that

Stared to machine the flange and coolant temp sensor housing and am just going to use alloy couplers chopped up with an AN fitting to the heater core




























I've bought some billet heater connectors which I think are -10 iirc?

Does anyone know anywhere that does a connector for the rad?


----------



## tomstt (Nov 17, 2010)

Nice tits:beer:


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

StaceyS3 said:


> Does anyone know anywhere that does a connector for the rad?


 Give gruvenparts a call. I think they're working on what you need right now


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Cheers will do :beer:


----------



## SamS3 (Jun 6, 2011)

Excellent breasts as always. 

Also, can't wait for this to get done


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Ah I did wonder when you'd pop up on here, have been meaning to get you some updates on ASN


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Have decided on a set of cams

Have managed to get hold of a new set of the QED custom grind cams which will hopefully keep all the bottom end power that's possible on the .82ar 

Have also purchased some new lifters from MJM to compliment the cams as not sure on the condition of the ones in the head, I ordered ruville ones which were recommended in a thread on here but they've now informed me they're out of stock and are going to supply OEM Luk ones for the same price

Once all of its landed in the UK I can start finishing the build


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Got my bits back from coating 










Have also started on the oil cooler mounting

Have drilled, tapped, countersunk and locktighted some m6 bolts into some ally that will be welded to the top of the intercooler



















Then found some stand off bolts which cut down and drilled and tapped in one end










Will be able to wind them onto the bolts and then put nuts and washers on the top bracket










Have started on the battery box for the battery relocation but haven't got any pics


----------



## Gu4rDi4N (Mar 11, 2005)

*Re: My GTX3071 stroker build*

Amazing!!! 

Enviado desde mi GT-I9100 usando Tapatalk 2


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*



Gu4rDi4N said:


> Amazing!!!
> 
> Enviado desde mi GT-I9100 usando Tapatalk 2


Cheers :beer: sorry only just seen this post

Update copy and pasted staring from my thread on Asn

Have finished my battery relocation today and am pretty chuffed and the engine bay has so much more room for more important stuff 😉

The standard battery does fit in there with the panel back on but it didn't leave any room for mounting brackets and personally would like a bit of a gap in the area incase get t-boned










Pulling the cable through was a pita but ended up tapering the conductor and used a bit of oil to aid it










Empty battery tray










Took the fusebox apart to look where was best to bolt it down but have ended up sticking it with some silicone to the bracket




























Will get some better pics when it's dry

Some pics of the battery bracket and install



















Just for reference as someone had asked about crimping the lugs on here's the crimping tool that I used


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

My bits have arrived 










Genisis II Injectors 1000cc's for me and some 630's for a friend










New lifters










Cam gear, hemi throttle body, Arp fly and can bolts with grip plates, billet coolant adaptors and a few billet IE goodies










IE inlet with vacuum mani, Fluidampr pulley, IE fuel rail and aeromotive fpr



















Catcams 3660 (bobq purples)










IE surge tank










Only bits can really think of that I need now are the obvious downpipe that bill will be creating a piece of art with  and all my lines but need to see how certain bits sit before buying fittings

Also have got my hands on an agn largeport head for a really good price with VVT which I need and will use the cam cover so can modify mine at my own leisure for the new breather system on the new engine


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

:wave::wave:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Have started bolting a few of the inlet mani bits together as wanted to start trial fitting and like a child I just had to play 

Mani looks lovely and hadn't really noticed how big the throttle body is until I put it next to an old one




























Am a bit concerned about the way the injector sits as seems to be to far up in the boss for my liking?




























Can see the shoulder that it sits up against, am considering getting the boss's counter bored to bring them down?










What's your thoughts?

Cheers


----------



## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

I would confirm with USRT that you got the right injectors first. Check these… http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10_44_287&products_id=1784


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

First i'd test it as is and see how it idles. If there is shrouding then stumbling will occur.

If it does, remove the lower height adapter (black piece at injection end) and then seat the injector lower in the cup. IF it fits better, then you can go with 1" upper height adapters, unless you can just remove that silver spacer where the rail bolts down then you wont need the upper adapters. :beer:


----------



## [email protected] (Jan 2, 2009)

That setup should not need spacers OR the cup extenders with that manifold. Remove both. 

Cheers,

Pete


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> That setup should not need spacers OR the cup extenders with that manifold. Remove both.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Pete


and that about sums it up. 

Thanks Pete:thumbup:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Cheers for your replys peeps :beer:

It's all so very clear now you have said and checking the pictures of small and largeport ones usrt's site can't believe I didn't realise.....what a muppet haha

Did get a quick chance to mount them without the cup extenders and they are just slightly shorter than I'd ideally like so may need the spacers on the top of the injectors with some fuel rail ones or may just machine a few mm off of the fuel rail mount 

Thanks again for the help :beer:


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

pics with spacers removed please...


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Is a lot better with the spacer cups removed 

Although not completely happy with how far the o-ring sits in the fuel rail so may just take a couple of mm off of the mounts to make it sit lower?



















The injector nozzle position looks 100 times better (pics aren't to brilliant on the iPhone)


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

StaceyS3 said:


> Is a lot better with the spacer cups removed
> 
> Although not completely happy with how far the o-ring sits in the fuel rail so may just take a couple of mm off of the mounts to make it sit lower?


If it isn't broke, dont fix it. :beer:


----------



## lewp91 (May 9, 2011)

you could always try that, and if it is too far, simply shim it back up?


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Thought I'd update as hadn't done so for a while 

I ended up putting the injector spacers on top with some small fuel rail spacers and it sits a lot better with the injectors held nice and tight

I port matched the phenolic spacer and to my supprise I even had to remove some off of the gasket




























Had to turn a tapered sleeve to slide the camshafts seals on



















Got some new calipers (996 turbo fronts) to replace my 18z 6 pot calipers as will be a more balanced match to the master cylinder and the rears as well as giving me better pad choice










Dismantled ready for powder coating










I bought a spare N/A head cheap for the vvt unit










I decided as I know the history of my unit I'd put that in the new engine and put the one if just got in the car, whilst I was at it I dropped the N/A inlet cam in as has more lift and thought why not hey 










It seems to pull a better higher up the rev range but think I may have lost a little bit lower down in the rev range, although have got any logs or anything to go with this

I then got back to the more important engine lol
I finished installing the catcams with the vvt unit










I put on the timing belt and can see how the head being skimmed by 0.5mm, deck skimmed and the thinner N/A gasket have effected the timing










Screwdriver to show the mark on the cam cover and its out by around 2 degrees



















Will continue later when I get a chance


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

I have also switched to ARP main studs after seeing a few threads on here recently










The sump fouled on the nuts on flywheel end and just needed a little clearancing



















I've made a heatshield to hopefully protect the rocker cover seal, coilpack wiring and hopefully keep some heat off of the charge pipework




























Quick question? Does it matter which is the coolant inlet and which is the outlet on a garrett turbo?


----------



## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

In my research I dont believe it matters, however the angle in which they are set does. 

Here is some good info, Garrett White Papers 1 

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/Garrett_White_Papers


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Cheers for the link :beer:

I will get stuck in as looks like some good info on there, have read the garrett turbo techs but not seen this one before


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Just going to put loads of pics from my thread on audi-sport, asking for advice on my lines (oil drain mainly) as should be getting them made this week 

Way i look at it i have to options, both will be out of stanless hard pipe for as much of the length as possible with heat sleaving 

1. Drop it a very direct route through runners 3&4 but will be very near hotstuff 

2. Go around which will still be pretty near hot runners but it will have to be rather long and almost near horizontal 

Also there looks like a reasonable gap below the mani but the wastegate tube will run somewhere around there 

Just going to bombard with pics to get a good perceptive on space  























































Heres a pic with my finger pointing to where i was thinking of dropping between the runners 










Can see ho close its going to have to run to the wastegate take off which ever route i take it 










Any suggestions on a route or what not to do and to do? :beer:


----------



## SamS3 (Jun 6, 2011)

I'd really do your homework before settling. 

As I said on audi-sport, CRD have been using fire sleeve for years. Why would they carry on if it was an issue? 

Hard pipe straight down, with fire sleeve. Surely the best of both worlds.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

SamS3 said:


> I'd really do your homework before settling.
> 
> As I said on audi-sport, CRD have been using fire sleeve for years. Why would they carry on if it was an issue?
> 
> Hard pipe straight down, with fire sleeve. Surely the best of both worlds.


 bingo. 


There's really not that much thought needed.


----------



## badger5 (Nov 17, 2003)

SamS3 said:


> I'd really do your homework before settling.
> 
> As I said on audi-sport, CRD have been using fire sleeve for years. Why would they carry on if it was an issue?
> 
> Hard pipe straight down, with fire sleeve. Surely the best of both worlds.


 hardpipe fine, sleeved flexi's nope... Raced with multiple sleeved flexi setup and the hoses will expire trust me.. 

consideration to assembly sequence also for accessibility to do the things up. -10/-12 unions need big ole af spanners which when no room makes for Grrrrr


----------



## SamS3 (Jun 6, 2011)

Good point! 

Why oh why did they fit the turbo back there...


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Cheers guys think that will be the route to go then hard pipe with fire sleeve

I presume 'fire sleeve' is the silicone type of sleave rather than the silver fiberous sleeving?

Take it still avoid dropping it between te runners if possible?

Cheers :beer:


----------



## Three3Se7en (Jul 2, 2007)

StaceyS3 said:


> Cheers guys think that will be the route to go then hard pipe with fire sleeve
> 
> I presume 'fire sleeve' is the silicone type of sleave rather than the silver fiberous sleeving?
> 
> ...


 Hard pipe straight through runners and insulate.


----------



## ZG86 (Sep 17, 2006)

so much awesomeness in this thread :thumbup::beer:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Sorry must of missed your comments guys, cheers for the advice and compliments :beer:

Have been thinking and wondering what sort of boost levels I could possibly run my setup at as don't see to much documented on the gtx range?

Main reason is that my stack boost gauge only goes to 2 bar and have been looking at getting matching oil pressure and AFR gauges but if I'm going to need a different brand of boost gauge like aem then will try and get matching oil and AFR?


----------



## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

StaceyS3 said:


> Take it still avoid dropping it between te runners if possible?


You can put it through the runners. Just make sure when it goes under the manifold you have flex + the fire sleeve as stated above.


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Lovely cheers for the reply Issam, am now waiting on my friend to get it moving 

Any ideas of what boost will be able to run at?


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Thought i'm due an update on here 

Have now decided to get Bill @ Badger 5 to do the oil pipes with the DP and mapping so this meant could crack on and get the project moving

Went to fit my 996tt calipers in favour of the 18z 6 pots but forgot i had cut down the carrier bolts previously so had to abort



Finished my billet coolant flange



Monday this week i started the changeover



The charge pipework ive now decided to go with 63mm hot and 70mm cold, this required some cooler modding





Current engine out



State of the clutch and fly





There was unusual wear on the clutch springs?



Engine ready to go back in



And in



Will continue with update when get 5mins


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Update continued

Had to reshape the heatshielding around the turbo comp cover slightly as turbo was fouling on it



The IE inlet vacuum and IAT sensor sit where the charge pipe would usually sit



To try and get round this i bought a mk4 washer bottle which means loosing my headlight washers which had modded to be an intercooler spray but thats no skin of my nose

The size difference is quite big between the 2



I'm now also looking at moving the PAS reservior over a couple of inches to free up more room

From here



To roughly here



The other thing im a bit concerned about with the IE inlet is that it seems to sit quite high in the S3 bay



Crap quality iphone pic but you get an idea of clearance



Am glad bought alloy heater core connectors as theres no chance the OEM ones would have fitted, the original plan of using straight AN fittings is a no go so have ordered some 45 degree fittings which should give me enough clearance to the TIP

Thats all for now but it is all booked in at Badger 5 on the 3rd of May for a custom downpipe, turbo lines followed by the mapping......can't wait


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

Feel free to send me the 5.3L bottle!


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

do you have a flower growing out of your front grill?


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

18T_BT said:


> do you have a flower growing out of your front grill?


That's his secret stash of weed....:laugh:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*



18T_BT said:


> do you have a flower growing out of your front grill?


Lol I keep the bumper on a hedge whilst working on the car, you can just about see it in the 3rd pic on the right in post 75


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*



T-Boy said:


> That's his secret stash of weed....:laugh:


Haha not quite it would get wet and wouldn't want that happening


----------



## dood786. (Dec 6, 2007)

This is a fantastic build


----------



## Leonturbo (Nov 26, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*



dood786. said:


> This is a fantastic build


 +1


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Cheers guys :beer: 

Managed to get a few odd bits done yesterday 

Have made a bracket for the PAS reservoir 

 

 

 

I replaced a ballast on my headlight as it went a little while ago, i had to cut and resplice the cores to allow me to get them through the gland 

 

 

Whilst i had the headlights out i thought it was a good time to replace the headlight leveling clip with an alloy one off of a forum member as my plastic one had broken 

 

 

I have also modified my saiko michi catch can for a -10AN fitting 

 

Fitting pressed in 

 

Thats all for now, should hopefully be able to get some more time on the car on wednesday


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

lots of good n'simple creativity in here.:beer::thumbup:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*



[email protected] said:


> lots of good n'simple creativity in here.:beer::thumbup:


 Cheers it doesn't need to be anything to extravagant :beer:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Little update

Got lots of bits all connected up now and main thing got left to do in the bay is the charge pipework

Got my coolant to bulkhead lines completed after waiting for hose



















Here's a pic of the tip mocked up with the badger 5 6' velocity stack and rs4 maf










A pic o my little girl (who's got a thing with sticking her tongue out at the mo) and part of the tip pipework as couldn't believe the size of it lol










A couple of pics of where the cars currently at 



















Will hopefully be able to really crack on Monday


----------



## VW indahouse (Feb 25, 2012)

Wow, cracking build! :beer:


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

*Re: My GTX3071 stroker build*

Awesome stuff mate! I might have missed it but will you run an external oil Cooler?

Sent from my GT-P1000 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*Re: My GTX3071 stroker build*



VW indahouse said:


> Wow, cracking build! :beer:


 Cheers :beer:

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*Re: My GTX3071 stroker build*



Gulfstream said:


> Awesome stuff mate! I might have missed it but will you run an external oil Cooler?
> 
> Sent from my GT-P1000 using Tapatalk 2


 Cheers have been following yours as well which is a cracking build :beer:

Yeah am planning to run one but not sure where im going to mount it yet?

Had planned on mounting it on top of the intercooler but theres not quite enough space so am back to the drawing board on that one, may try and fit it in the void in front of the wheel under the battery tray as prawn on asn has done?

Will follow shortly with how it goes

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*Re: My GTX3071 stroker build*

Got a few bits done since the last update

Managed to mock up all the charge pipework this is from tip to tb























































Heres how it currently is looking



















Ive managed to get time to change the rear springs over due to one being broken and also changed the front calipers whilst I hsd a chance but forgot to take pics










Havent had a chance to get the oil cooler mounted yet and may have to leave it to a later date as the cars got to be ready to go to bill for the morning 

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Badger 5 has started to construct the downpipe which will consist of a taper up to 4' out of the turbine then onto 3.5' which will just squeeze past the prop then drop to 3' for the rest of the system

The system will have 3 straight through silencers to try and keep the noise to a reasonable level as last thing i'd want is to not be allowed on to a track as noise restrictions are getting tighter and tighter in the UK

The 3 sizes of pipework laid out on the floor



Turbine exit with the 4' section



Down to the 3.5'



Bill worked out the CSA differences and its quite a big difference between the sizes

Tube	diameter	radius	pi	CSA ^mm
3" 72.7	36.35	3.1415927	4151
3.5"	86	43	3.1415927	5809
4"	97.5	48.75	3.1415927	7466

Waiting on 3.5' v-bands and clamps for now but will continue soon


----------



## VW indahouse (Feb 25, 2012)

Very nice :beer::beer:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*Re: My GTX3071 stroker build*

Cheers :beer:

Am hoping that the bigger diameter downpipe should help spool up (as didnt know the gtx's spool slower than gt counter parts) and of coarse it should flow pretty well 

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*Re: My GTX3071 stroker build*

Few more pics of the exhaust









































































Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

Nice! You're going to have to post a video of how that sounds!


----------



## badger5 (Nov 17, 2003)

guess what I am doing for the next couple of days! 

weldy weldy


----------



## dood786. (Dec 6, 2007)

Is there a specific reason for the rapid size changes on the downpipe? Also why 2 different size boxes? 

Sent from my ST25i using Tapatalk 4 Beta


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*Re: My GTX3071 stroker build*

Already said this on ASN but what the hell.....that looks sexual and is an lovely bit of work bill :beer: :beer:

Cant wait to abuse it again 

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## badger5 (Nov 17, 2003)

dood786. said:


> Is there a specific reason for the rapid size changes on the downpipe? Also why 2 different size boxes?
> 
> Sent from my ST25i using Tapatalk 4 Beta


 
4" Top section to create an expansion chamber of sorts so the swirling turbine discharge can escape into the larger section without effecting turbine... and it has to reduce to 3" to get past the propshaft donut into the rest of the 3" system. Space is the driver here. Its an S3, Haldex 4wd car. 

The rear silencer stack is also space driven... 3 x silencers for quiet as this car will be used on track days, and noise limits are getting harder to pass. The silencers are stacked at the rear so the 5" out diameter of the round boxes do not protrude too low and get hit. The straight section from DP rearward is high enough to not get hit by speed bumps etc. 

Same silencers I made on a mk2 golf gt30 last week, and its noise test was 89/90db(A) measured at tailpipe at 500mm from tail pipe @ 4500rpm.. Nice low tone, but quiet & unrestrictive. All the silencers are straight thru. 

Golf system below from last week.


----------



## [email protected] (Jan 2, 2009)

Looking great guys. 

I am tired of way too loud street cars anyways. 3" with a single straight through muffler gets old after a while.


----------



## badger5 (Nov 17, 2003)

[email protected] said:


> Looking great guys.
> 
> I am tired of way too loud street cars anyways. 3" with a single straight through muffler gets old after a while.


 yep, as do screamer pipes.. One of my personal pet hates..


----------



## dood786. (Dec 6, 2007)

*Re: My GTX3071 stroker build*

Great reply and well understood. Thanx 

Sent from my ST25i using Tapatalk 2


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*Re: My GTX3071 stroker build*

Cheers for the comments guys :beer:

The car has to bearable with regards to noise as is my daily and our family car, so this was the goal from the start and bill has done a wicked job and of coarse the other important detail is I should be able to enter all UK tracks with it 

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I only have a mid and rear silenced with 100cell race cat and I scrape under the 100db trackday limit every time. You should be well within :thumbup:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*Re: My GTX3071 stroker build*

Thats good to know 

One I last went to had an 87.5db drive by limit so should hopefully pass that as well, if not just have to let off on that bit of the track lol

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## badger5 (Nov 17, 2003)

top DP sections finished welded now.. finally. Backpurged also


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*Re: My GTX3071 stroker build*

Cheers Bill looks lovely as always :beer:

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Budsdubbin (Jul 14, 2008)

What's the point in having the larger diameter turn in there? Some sort of regulation? Welds look good


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

Budsdubbin said:


> What's the point in having the larger diameter turn in there? Some sort of regulation? Welds look good


From earlier post on page 3:



dood786. said:


> Is there a specific reason for the rapid size changes on the downpipe? Also why 2 different size boxes?
> 
> Sent from my ST25i using Tapatalk 4 Beta





badger5 said:


> 4" Top section to create an expansion chamber of sorts so the swirling turbine discharge can escape into the larger section without effecting turbine... and it has to reduce to 3" to get past the propshaft donut into the rest of the 3" system. Space is the driver here. Its an S3, Haldex 4wd car.


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*Re: My GTX3071 stroker build*



T-Boy said:


> From earlier post on page 3:


Cheers  :beer:

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## lewp91 (May 9, 2011)

never realised it was so much tighter with power going to the rear  I can see why I couldn't find anyone with a transfer box and 4" DP...


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*Re: My GTX3071 stroker build*



lewp91 said:


> never realised it was so much tighter with power going to the rear  I can see why I couldn't find anyone with a transfer box and 4" DP...


Yeah if anything bigger would have fitted through bill would have squeezed it in there 

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

:beer::beer::thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Car is now up and running with exhaust and lines all complete 

Just going to litter it with loads of pics from Bill @ Badger 5's facebook page

https://www.facebook.com/Badger5Ltd?fref=ts





































Wastegate piping













































































































Have to say its all looking rather sexy


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Turbo lines were next on the list 

Bill done a fair amount of this in hard pipe to withstand the heat that will be in the area

Oil Drain
































































Coolant Pipes




























Engine bay coming together again

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd....720x720/11502_396872927097465_709570363_n.jpg

Then headed on to a couple of issues....

The coolant hard pipe that runs round the block had cracked on one of the braised joints which showed as soon as fluids were poored in 

It had cracked on this join that runs to the coolant expansion bottle so Bill welded my AN fitting to another pipe he had laying aroind



















Next issue was the sump was disscovered to be leaking as the welds on some baffles i had got welded in by a local welder were porous



















Bill took this off and rectified the problem by grinding alot of it away and rewelding, followed by a quick fill of water to test it










I also have to hold my hands up that i managed to mess the timing up by one tooth at some point on the engine but all is now sorted and running correctly

Engine bay all in one piece










It has since been put through a couple of heat cycles and will all being well run in today on the dyno

Would also like to add a big thanks to Bill as the car is looking amazing and hes put a lot of effort into this...cant wait to see the results


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Couple of videos with it running 



Noisy power steering pump due to low on fluid as is due to be changed but its moving on its own steam none the less


----------



## dood786. (Dec 6, 2007)

That looks great, fantastic fabrication


----------



## federikg (Mar 13, 2011)

StaceyS3 said:


> GTX3071r 0.82 Tial Hotside, compact comp cover with 3' inlet
> MVR 44mm wastegate
> Will be having a 3' downpipe made @ badger5 as well as mapping
> AH Fabs V2 FMIC
> ...


Hi Stacey, first of all I want to congratulate you, because the work that you done in the car is perfect with the best products of IE !

I´m from Argentina and with a friend, we are doing a similar mod into a Seat Leon 4, stroker with 83mm pistons, GT30 and IE products.

I have a doubt of your fuel mod, and a future issue that I´m thinking in our project.
Are you connecting the Bosh 044 inline with the OEM S3 fuel pump, and don´t have any issue of low pressure or insufficient fuel? We were thinking to put some intank walbro or similar in each side of the tank


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Looks awesome Stacey! Get some dyno logs and off to the track you go :thumbup:


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

catch the ferry and drive that think to germany! hit the nurburgring with me on the 11th!


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

:thumbup::beer:


----------



## lewp91 (May 9, 2011)

looking good Stacey!


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*Re: My GTX3071 stroker build*

Cheers for the positive comments guys :beer:

Had a message from Bill earlier and turbo should be back from Owen developments after recieving their motorsport bearing upgrade on tues, so hopefully mapping will comence soon 

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*Re: My GTX3071 stroker build*



federikg said:


> Hi Stacey, first of all I want to congratulate you, because the work that you done in the car is perfect with the best products of IE !
> 
> I´m from Argentina and with a friend, we are doing a similar mod into a Seat Leon 4, stroker with 83mm pistons, GT30 and IE products.
> 
> ...


Sorry only just properly read over peoples comments 

Running the 044 inline I'm hoping will be enough but if not I will have to get my surge tank installed

Theres quite a few people running aftermarket pumps inline with no issues as held up fine for a couple of years on the K26....im just hoping it will be man enough to supply enough fuel for mine otherwise surge tank will go in 

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*Re: My GTX3071 stroker build*



[email protected] said:


> catch the ferry and drive that think to germany! hit the nurburgring with me on the 11th!


Nurburgring would be fantastic and is on my to do list but will have to wait a little while as have just got a house

Plus whenever I book something likr this up something with the car goes wrong.....when I booked ring up previously I bent a rod a few weeks prior and ended up being a passanger lol 

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## transient_analysis (Jan 28, 2003)

Well done on the oil return line... especially on that lower hard section going to the pan.

The stainless water lines with banjos is pretty awesome too.


----------



## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

transient_analysis said:


> Well done on the oil return line... especially on that lower hard section going to the pan.
> 
> The stainless water lines with banjos is pretty awesome too.


Haven't seen you around these parts in a while...LOL


----------



## kingREPTAR (Jul 27, 2012)

Did you ever get this thing dynod? 
Beautiful build, and I absolutely love the 8L A3s.
:beer:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Well been a bit to vacant on here with this thread

A lot happened and is still happening good and bad with a few issues on the way

The car had low very low oil pressure, we changed the +1 thou bearings that I stupidly fitted which brought it back up within tolerance although still at the lower end of the range

The car when run up behaved in a strange manor with regards to using the VVT and suspect the cams or timing were causing issues

The VVT solenoid had to be held on all the time to retain torque and power which is odd?



In the end we left at mid 400's with some issues to sort, cams, oil pressure etc to then return at a later date

Red line is my previous K26 setup and blue is the gtx3071





Couple of it on the dyno @ Badger 5





Had the car on the road a month and managed to break another box with only 3rd gear being able to be selected

A lot in my personal life has happened since then including buying our first house which needs a lot of work, a new job which saw me buying this GT TDI to commute a daily 100mile round trip



The S3 then sat neglected from sept until a few weeks ago were I have now started to tinker with it to get to the bottom of a couple issues and start the next round of mods now it's not my daily 

Will continue shortly


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

The car currently sits in this state



With the engine in the garage, the strip down process begins





Welded some support brackets for the DP to keep the position of the lower part in the right place for when I cut the top part off to reposition the flange for new turbo









The fire sleeve on the turbo oil drain has seen better days and taken a beating even with the ceramic coated mani



Started stripping the engine









How it currently stands until I get some more time on it


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Got home this morning to find this in the hallway







There a little bit of damage to the comp wheel which may try and smooth out a tad with an oil stone before a rebalance



You think at times is this a bit excessive but the crazy fool who have bought this off had modified the comp outlet due to having it fitted to a MOTORBIKE.....yes a motorbike.... Hayabusa to be exact! He had only used it one season and on one run hit a cone knocking the filter off which caused the damage to the comp tips


----------



## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

That downpipe... :thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## 2fast4you2 (Feb 22, 2009)

Great build :thumbup:
Can you tell me what brand is the exhaust manifold ?
And do you sell the GTX3071R and how much?


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*



suffocatemymind said:


> That downpipe... :thumbup::thumbup:


The downpipe and system that Bill @ badger 5 did is a work of art, am going to find it hard to start cutting and moving it about to meet the new turbo outlet as going to have to spin it round a bit on the mani v-band to get comp clearance


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*



2fast4you2 said:


> Great build :thumbup:
> Can you tell me what brand is the exhaust manifold ?
> And do you sell the GTX3071R and how much?


Cheers it's had a lot of hiccups but should hopefully get there in the end
The mani is made by TSR in the UK and am looking for around £1000 for the GTX as only covered <1000 miles and also has the Owen Developments Motorsport bearing upgrade


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*



2fast4you2 said:


> Great build :thumbup:
> Can you tell me what brand is the exhaust manifold ?
> And do you sell the GTX3071R and how much?


The maani is made by TSR in the UK and is a lovely bit of kit 

The turbo am looking for £1000 really as covered less than 1000 miles and has the Owen developments Motorsport upgrade


----------



## RodgertheRabit II (Sep 13, 2012)

Im loving the expansion chamber idea. Glad to see Badger make it's way onto a BT applicationopcorn:


----------



## lewp91 (May 9, 2011)

Stacey, what turbo is that you're replacing the owens gtx with?


----------



## badger5 (Nov 17, 2003)

RodgertheRabit II said:


> Glad to see Badger make it's way onto a BT applicationopcorn:




I'm confused

it happens a lot these days

say what?


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*



RodgertheRabit II said:


> Im loving the expansion chamber idea. Glad to see Badger make it's way onto a BT applicationopcorn:


It's a wicked idea and should in theory definately work to aid spool (although have nothing to compare apples to Apple with)
Bit lost with the BT comment? Bills been doing a good few of the high power BT builds in the UK for a long time now


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*



lewp91 said:


> Stacey, what turbo is that you're replacing the owens gtx with?


It's a HTA3582r which will go in my current ceramic coated tial .82 v-banded hotside once has been re-profiled by CR Turbos


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Forgot to add the other main change taking place will be cams which is most likely to be IECVA1's


----------



## RodgertheRabit II (Sep 13, 2012)

badger5 said:


> I'm confused
> 
> it happens a lot these days
> 
> say what?





StaceyS3 said:


> Bit lost with the BT comment? Bills been doing a good few of the high power BT builds in the UK for a long time now


Oh, My bad guys!:facepalm:. I guess im just late to the party on the expansion chamber idea. Been a busy in the shop these days:wave:

Perhaps I just misconstrued when I 1st saw it in some of the "Hybrid" threads.

Def waiting for more!opcorn:


----------



## badger5 (Nov 17, 2003)

RodgertheRabit II said:


> Oh, My bad guys!:facepalm:. I guess im just late to the party on the expansion chamber idea. Been a busy in the shop these days:wave:
> 
> Perhaps I just misconstrued when I 1st saw it in some of the "Hybrid" threads.
> 
> Def waiting for more!opcorn:


hehe

I've been doing and involved with BT 1.8t builds since 2002...........
:thumbup:


----------



## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

May I inquire as to roughly how much this build cost you?


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> May I inquire as to roughly how much this build cost you?


Far Far to much lol

Really can't keep track as have had so much different gear on the car now, this turbo will be the forth different framed blower to run on the motor since i've had it


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

A couple of shots of the GTX30 next to the HTA35 



Turbine side seems to be a big difference when you look at them side by side 



Was going to get my .82 tial housing machined out to the GT35 turbine profile but doesn't look like theres enough meat there, so looks like will have to purchase a new V-banded hotside, am currently unsure on wether to go for arnolds .72 or the normal .82? If the .82 housing will be no where near the limits of the gt35's turbines flow with the hta wheel then the downsize to the .72 seems sensible?
Whats the thoughts?

Got the pistons, rods and crank out of the block although not had time to thouroughly check them over and measure anything, heres a few pics



Worst looking big end (No 3)



The mains were not quite so good as No 3 bearing has worn a fair bit for 1K, the block bearing seems a little out of shape and doesn't grip in position in the block when pushed in which may have caused some of the wear can see





No 3





The block and everything i will go over with a fine tooth comb this time and double check everything i previously measured and did, will plastigauging everything and thouroughly measuring the bores as have got my doubts on how nice a job the machine shop did


----------



## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Nice build can't wait to see it done


Sent from my SCH-i705 using Tapatalk


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Managed to get half hour in the garage and started measuring journals

Only had time to measure the mains



I got these measurements which are pretty dam consistant journal to journal, which were all measured in multiple positions



Will have to check them to VAGs tolerances when am next working on it

I did check the mic to the setting gauge after and it appears it is undereading by 0.01mm so will add that to the recorded results 



10/3/14

Not a great deal of time spent in the garage again as is all work with a very little bit of downtime in between

Measured and inspected the big end journals and pistons

The big ends have got a few scratches and marks on them which are pretty deep and can be felt easily with your nail and even by touch 



They also have a few horozontal marks which is almost like has been chattering or something of that description?



Pistons are showing some wear already on the skirts





The piston measurements were taken on the lower and higher parts of the skirts that are showing the wear and they were all taken from front to back on the piston

The measurements


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Not a great deal happening 

Here's an update off of ASN, just been measuring more bits trying to suss out why had low oil pressure

On another note I've just got a promotion at work  , I'm over the moon that I'm now the engineering step up team manager and first day is on Monday.... not bad for coming out of probation 3 weeks ago 

I've had some bits show up, nothing special only consumables but one of the packages from euro was soaked as the g12 had leaked so didn't accept that one



Managed to get a couple of hours in the garage yesterday and finished mic'ing the bores

Measured at the top front to back and side to side





Also measured half way down front to back and at the bottom about 10mm in both ways



These are the measurements I got, for speed as my mic is imperial I done a quick conversion which is noted in the bottom corner and used that as a gauge which will explain how I got figures down to 0.001mm





I checked the journal sizes I've got recorded to vags specs and it's within tolerance but only just so that may explain the oil pressure? I will plastigauged it when I get it back and will go from there but may send it off for a regrind?

The bores and pistons will check soon when I've dug out JEs specs


----------



## Rumpelstilzchen (Oct 24, 2009)

Congrats on the promotion! What oil pressure were you seeing at idle/full pulls? What oil were you running?

Nice progressopcorn:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*



Rumpelstilzchen said:


> Congrats on the promotion! What oil pressure were you seeing at idle/full pulls? What oil were you running?
> 
> Nice progressopcorn:


Cheers mate  

Iirc it was less than 10psi warm idle and was around 50psi full pull, main worry was that it was about half the pressure of the other 1.8ts bill had in the garage and what he usually sees
May have found something related to it though, here's an update I just posted on ASN

Managed to get a little bit of time on car stuff over the last week

I thoroughly jet washed the block down last Sunday, followed by blowing out all the gallery's and leaving it to dry in the fine English sun

After the cleaning I then masked the block up ready for painting



After which only had a few spare minutes so looked at the oil filter housing....to which I made a discovery.....this one way/ pressure relief valve (unsure of its purpose) was loose free turning in the housing 





Suspect this could have had an effect on oil pressure although the strength of the spring inside the little critter can be blown open with my mouth which suggests it's more likely to be a one way valve or flow restrictor?

I then this afternoon managed to get a couple of coats of hammerite on the block and to start stripping the box


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Lubes all arrived



This will be the run in oil went for in the end as got it cheap with a discount code



Flywheel back from being skimmed and balanced



Material that was removed to balance



Crank after polishing



Also as the weather is lovely I gave the engine bay a quick jet wash which although still looks filthy is a vast improvement 




Hoping that now got the crank back can crack on with plastigauging the bottom end and start assembling

Hopefully more exciting stuff to update next time


----------



## Grahams81 (May 10, 2011)

Hi mate, loving the build thread. 

I thought i'd give you my 2c on your low oil pressure issues. 

Just FYI the bolts that hold the oil squirters in allow the oil tho flow through then into the jets.... There is a spring and ball installed inside the screw - if you blow compressed air through them you can just lift the ball of its seat to simulate oil flow. 
After much thinking about why these restrictors are fitted i came to the conclusion that they are there to keep the oil pressure high at lower levels.... IE @ idle keeping the oil pressure high enough not to starve the mains / big ends etc.... And then once the oil pressure rises higher as the revs do the pressure overcomes the spring and the squirters then come into use...... This is my theory and i can't for the life of me think of any other reason to install these balls & springs. 

When i rebuilt my engine i just nipped the oil squirters up and didn't think much of it (i didn't torque them to oem specs - i thought im an engineer i know how much a M8 bolt needs... Lol) i didnt pull too much ! 

Later on i removed the oil squirters because the pistons were hitting them, on inspection of the bolts which has holes drilled in to allow oil to flow around were oval - i thought this was strange so found some original ones from another block and they were round..... When i tried to blow through them there was no restriction from the spring as the bolt had in effect lengthened at the neck area (weakest part full of holes and turned down) so the spring wasn't doing anything.

I suppose if the squirters were open all the time it could be robbing pressure from your main / big ends hence the lower oil pressure. 

Another thing i experienced on my block was a loose fitting main bearing cap... Normally where the main bearing cap has been pulled slightly oval, this was pinching the bearing a little at the joint line. (Still turning fine BTW) 
And when installed on the block without the bearing you could feel a slight step on the face where the bearing fits. This maybe why your loose fitting bearing cap number 3 has knackered the bearing. 
After much messing around with my block i discovered if i pulled the cap one way against the block the tightened the screw on that side it actually pushed the bearing cap tight against the other side of the block (as the mating faces are pulled against each other it flattens the cap) and the step was then gone, tightened up the other bolt and all was good. Then torqued them both to spec. 
If i tightened up both bolts equally with out pulling the cap against the block the step was still noticable..... And would have meant missalignment with the bearings... And because it was on the jointing line you wouldnt be able to pick it up with plastigauge.

Anyhow good luck with your build and sorry to ramble on too much. 

Edit - you may want to line bore the mains to ensure there all true.... And maybe use a DTI the crank to check it doesn't have a bend in it which can also wipe out number 3 main.

Cheers, 

Graham.


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Thanks very much graham all help ideas and suggestions are more than welcome 

Thanks on the thread but it's not quite to the level of yours which have been subscribed to on SCN for some time

Am considering changing the squirters and bolts as I had two sets knocking about when building it and picked the set with the bigger bore squirters but not sure if the bolts were different and got mixed up?

I also have to agree on the theory that the valve in the bolts is to help retain pressure and open when reaches the designated pressure

I haven't checked them since removal but did hold a reasonable amount of pressure prior the build when tested as remember stupidly getting a face full of dirty engine oil lol

Not thought about the crank being straight and true or same with the block, I did make a point of aligning the bearing caps with the lower bearings but will be checking this a lot more thoroughly when reassembling and didn't pay that much attention to how it all sat

Big thanks for the help mate your 2c are always welcome


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Got some time in the garage today and started carrying out some checks and work on the bottom end, some planned and some prompted by Graham from SCN

Started by taking off any burs or sharp edges inside the block



Then checked the crank wasn't bent with a DTI



The biggest variance I got was just under 1 thou





Not sure if that is acceptable or not?

The plastigauging brought up these results



Will have to check these to the desired tolerances

Got pulled off by the mrs and littlen before I could finish, but no 4 with the extra top oil grooved bearing was thowing up funny measurements due to the groove.
I'm going borrow a bearing from another cap just to check?



Hopefully will be able to crack on and check the big ends soon


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

My AZG 2.0tfsi crank was bent 0.15mm. Got machined straight. Tell tale was worn nr 3 bearing


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Cheers for the heads up mate and mine is bent or journals are out by 0.025mm but wouldn't of thought that would be enough to have worn the bearings the way they were?

Update off of ASN

Managed to finish off plastigauging the crank today in a bit of a rush to make a decision on weather a regrind is needed before i go away at the weekend

Measured the big end journals around the 10 and 2 mark to get both directions across the journal



Heres all the recorded values that i got, they seem on the larger side and from what i have read some are just out of tolerance but have read conflicting figures across the web





From the figures i have the journals are all within tolerance when Mic'd but the clearances are large and questionable if they're a pass.....what would you do?

Specs i have is 

Mains 54.00mm Big ends 47.80mm Tolerance for both -0.022 to -0.042 mm
Which would make mine just in spec on a couple

The clearances that i've got are 0.01-0.04mm which would put a few of mine out that were 0.045 and some leaning towards 0.05mm

On another note.....i'm gonna be a Dad again


----------



## ramone23456 (Dec 29, 2009)

*congrats on the new addition.*

Congrats!eace:


----------



## gitman (May 13, 2004)

ramone23456 said:


> Congrats!eace:


indeed!

question, where are you sourcing those specs?

and what exactly is done when you machine a crank to straighten it? just so i can understand the process, not to do it myself


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Cheers guys :beer: 

Afaik there's 2 ways to go about it....

1. Physically straighten it with a press of some form

2. Machine the journals so it all realigns correctly

I may be wrong but afaik that is 2 methods of doing so

Also any chance people could put their 2 c in with regards to the crank measurements I've got as go away on hols Saturday and have got a few weeks off after I return, so if I'm gonna regrind, it would be lovely to have it done for when I return to allow me to crack on


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Bit of an update

Recieved my turbine housing to which am pretty impressed with the quality, its not perfect but the company "Snail turbo" are being very helpful and talking about sorting it







I also aquired some new wheels after gradually selling all of mine, not the best of wheels but got them for well under half of the price they paid for them a month ago with one now kurbed



Kurb mark



Big thanks to Andrew (user [email protected]) for doing a wicked job on the head again

Never seen a head so clean it looks like its brand new, with the service and help from this man cant really thank him enough 











Last but not least I spent a little bit of time cleaning up theb blades on the comp wheel as had some damage from dust etc where previous owner knocked the filter off on a run



Hoping to have a good half day in the garage monday and cannot wait


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

GT3582R ? That's a big turbo :beer:

You plan to rev to like 8500rpm?


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Cheers :beer: HTA3582 on 0.82ar  since the car is no longer my daily I am really not concerned anywhere near as much about lag

Also thought it was rude not to when it came up for $500 with only one seasons use on a drag bike

Think 8500 will be the limit but reckon will be power up there with CVA1's

Really should change the thread title lol


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

.82ar as well... brave man :laugh: Can't wait to see the dyno graph from that one. I'm doing something similar albeit with a smaller compressor wheel 59mm.


----------



## SamS3 (Jun 6, 2011)

By all accounts the HTA has quicker spool than a regular GT3582, obviously the .82 housing will affect that slightly but many of the Evo guys and FP themselves don't recommend running a .63 on the HTA3582.

Lag? Meh, you're doing it wrong. Drop it a gear


----------



## badger5 (Nov 17, 2003)

Gulfstream said:


> .82ar as well... brave man :laugh: Can't wait to see the dyno graph from that one. I'm doing something similar albeit with a smaller compressor wheel 59mm.


0.82 on mine.. only std crank.. 1900cc


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

Wouldn't of thought the .82 on the hta would be that bad but only time will tell, it certainly should flow well though 

Got a little done on the car

Bought some new oil squirters as after speaking to graham on SCN suspect mine could be distorted via over tightening

Here's 3 different types from left to right is AGU, BAM and newer updated VAG replacements







After watching these rads for the last few months have eventually managed to pick one up for a really cheeky low price



Managed to now get all the bottom end assembled and head swiftly bolted to it 



Got best part of 2000bhp of turbo on the bench 

Left to right is my gtx3071r, hta3582 and my friends eBay gt3582 which were building a stroker and putting in a mk1 golf  his eBay turbo comp definately looks bigger than mine


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Post 170 has been FAQ'd under 'Block' and cross referenced to 'oil squirters'


----------



## [email protected] (Dec 18, 2009)

The oil jet on the left looking at the top are good for strokers but what bolt would you say is best to use

I've been using the same ones from my BAM block with out any trouble


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*



[email protected] said:


> The oil jet on the left looking at the top are good for strokers but what bolt would you say is best to use
> 
> I've been using the same ones from my BAM block with out any trouble


I used the new ones that came with the new squirters as know they haven't been overtightened where as the others probably have

The bam ones definately look like they have the most meat on them though


----------



## gitman (May 13, 2004)

StaceyS3 said:


> I used the new ones that came with the new squirters as know they haven't been overtightened where as the others probably have
> 
> The bam ones definately look like they have the most meat on them though


but does that translate to more flow?


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

*My GTX3071 stroker build*

The Agu squirters have a thinner bore than the other 2 but the BAM bolts/pressure relief valves have definately got the smallest bore and will flow the least from what you can see?


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Well it has been a while since updating and a lot has happened and been going on

First of all tried something new by doing the bodywork on the mrs Ka by cutting sections out, followed by welding plates in and fillering over. I sprayed it with rattle cans and am very pleased with the results 

The wagon got a thorough service plus a poxy window cable mech replaced, only issue I've got now is a suspect injector causing occasional juddering, poor starting and bit smoky on boost....problem is I now need to acquire a new vcds cable as my other one has crapped out

Now the interesting stuff....

I'll let the pics (although not many) do the talking 







Also a thanks to prawn for the advice on the seats :thumbsup:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Start them young hey, she was overseeing me changing the mrs's injectors loom



Cars is one of her most used words usually accompanied with a pointing finger

Just tought her to say engine...one step at a time lol


----------



## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

StaceyS3 said:


> Cars is one of her most used words usually accompanied with a pointing finger
> 
> Just tought her to say engine...one step at a time lol


Smart man... too many ladies out there getting scammed over their cars. In time I'm sure you'll have her embarrassing less savvy guys with her knowledge


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

All_Euro said:


> Smart man... too many ladies out there getting scammed over their cars. In time I'm sure you'll have her embarrassing less savvy guys with her knowledge


Yeah funny enough did say to mrs she will know her way round a motor when shes older 

Bit of an update copied off of ASN

Managed to get some time on the car, although doesn't feel like I have achieved a lot especially to look at, but was on the right go slow as finished my last shift this morning and was up and about with less than 2 hours kip

Anyhows have now got all the sound deadening I can see off and started pulling bits out of the dash

Ive now removed all the airbags, I know I can just put resistors in they're place but does anyone know if I can remove the lot including the loom, control module etc? As really want to get rid of as much clutter as possible


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Managed to get a little more done today...

Got the dash off then came up to the support bar, which from what i understand is replaced by a dash bar on the cage so it had to come out with all the attached mounts

Ive made a couple of measurements to help me relocate them back in some kind of simular location afterwards



Once that was out it all began to look a bit of a mess with wires/loom everywhere lol



Ive now come to the heating system which not to sure how this lump is attached with no obvious bolts etc in view (not had a great deal of time to look as had to pack up for work)



Also can anyone help me with regards to what i can get away with just removing from the loom without completely buggering the car up? Was for example wondering if i can just remove this airbag module and associated wires?



Next BIG decision on the cards is rollcage!

Can't make my mind up between a multipoint or something a bit nearer to clubman spec, i know the clubman will be more than ample but keep thinking along the lines of the safer i can make it the better?

Any thoughts guys?


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Managed to get an hour or so on it this afternoon

Took some doing but managed to locate the fixings holding in the heater assembly

There was 4 nuts with large washers hidden behind the heatshield and sound deadening at the bulkhead in the engine bay



They were located behind the little tabs



This is how its all looking in there now.....very bare and sparse



All need to do now is remove all the tar like substance, any excess tabs fixing points etc cut off that aren't needed, thin the loom amd wiring down then its time to fit the cage.....

Really got to pull my finger out make a decision and order one


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Cage ordered


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I remember this stage... so much to do man :beer:

Check the FIA approved cages dimensions so you can go on track with it.


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> I remember this stage... so much to do man
> 
> Check the FIA approved cages dimensions so you can go on track with it.


Yeah its quite daunting thinking of how much work ive got ahead of me now  

Will have to double check but pretty sure its FIA compliant following I pass a welding stress test, only thing that I think may effect it is the fact its designed for a mk4 golf R32 as there really doesnt seem to be anything out there for the 8L A3/S3 chassis


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Got a little more done on the car today although there's not a vast improvement visually 

I continued stripping back the loom to which most of my time was spent unwrapping loom tape 

Here's a couple of pics of how it currently sits





It really doesn't look like its moved a lot but it's very time consuming and seems never ending with me putting a good few hours in today

The amount of cable removed is really starting to mound up a bit now though



Don't suppose anyone can tell me what this cable is for as really can't remember and didn't lable it? It comes out of the loom around the sub/pass side rear seat?



Does anyone also know how much the crash sensors shut off or are used for in the even of a shunt? I know they activate airbags but do they also shut off electrics etc?

Thanks


----------



## craigalangibson (Dec 27, 2003)

StaceyS3 said:


>


If the insulation on the smaller wire is clear, then it could very well be the antenna for the factory alarm that someone had extended to get a better range. Check the black or beige connector that is plugged into the CCM to see if the wire is still there.

Courtesy of this DIY.


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

craigalangibson said:


> If the insulation on the smaller wire is clear, then it could very well be the antenna for the factory alarm that someone had extended to get a better range. Check the black or beige connector that is plugged into the CCM to see if the wire is still there.
> 
> Courtesy of this DIY.


Ahh spot on that looks like it  will double check that it checks out when next on the car

Thanks for the link and reply


----------



## craigalangibson (Dec 27, 2003)

StaceyS3 said:


> Ahh spot on that looks like it  will double check that it checks out when next on the car
> 
> Thanks for the link and reply


The wire easily strips from the terminal due to its small diameter. You'll probably need to crimp another female terminal onto it.

I cannot recall if it is connected to a smaller or larger terminal. The part number for the smaller terminal is N 103 358 07. The part number for the larger terminal is N 906 845 05.


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Thanks craig that's a great help

On another note

Had a little present show up today 



Only downside is that it'll be around a week before can get it open and have a good look at it


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Got a few hours on the car today and actually for once feel like have made some progress (although doesn't look like much)

Managed to get all the loom tidied up and tucked out of the way for now to make the next bit of work easier

Off the top of my head the stuff that was removed from the loom and car is as follows

Airbag system including crash sensors
Bose loom and amps (only left the basic cables to the HU and speaker cables to the doors for an aftermarket system)
Seat and seat belt wiring
Some of the alarm wiring
Most of the interior lighting loom
Rear wiper feed and pipework

I then attacked a lot of studs with the angle grinder to make it smooth and get rid of any unwanted bits and burrs. I had gone to far with the spot drill on a few occasions to which these holes I will be filling in at a later date

The car as it currently stands









In my head I've now got to remove the rest of the tar, any other remains of sound deadening, fill and repair any holes in the shell and then eventually onto the cage 

Have been thinking about various ways to protect bits in the car during welding and am after advice and opinions, have thought about wrapping the loom in bacofoil to protect it by deflecting spatter but not sure about the windows?


----------



## [email protected] (Jan 2, 2009)

Just take them out. You'll likely want the access for the cage work anyways.


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> Just take them out. You'll likely want the access for the cage work anyways.


Cheers Pete

Am hoping to get a car tent (if the Mrs will give in) then can work on it throughout the winter whilst work is slow


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

what did you use to remove the sound deadening material from the rear bench?


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> what did you use to remove the sound deadening material from the rear bench?


Just a heat gun and scrapper, followed by a solvent tar remover

Can't wait to get the rest that clean


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Ok good info I will try the same


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Ok good info I will try the same


Nice one and good luck it really is a supprisingly long painstaking task 

Had a bit of a break through on the shelter for the car! What she originally said was I can only have one if I live in there to which I immediately said YES I will be able to get it done quicker that way (she didn't like that)

None the less some flowers and chocs later she has said I can get one but the tents needs to be down by mid Jan!

Looks like I need to get cracking 

Can anyone recommend anything shelter wise and advice on removing the screen?


----------



## Grahams81 (May 10, 2011)

I bought my "man-tent" :laugh: from Dancover in the UK, excellent value for money and much more robust than some on the market..... it had a box section lower frame that could be screwed into the floor. rather than strings and pegs etc. 
I had mine up for a few years and it would have still been up now if i hadn't of been lazy and re-tensioned the cover.... look in my build thread for pictures of the tent.

And my missus also hated it, said it looked like somebody had been murdered and there was a forensics tent on the drive :laugh:


Edit - link 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5546449-Seat-Leon-1-8T-Cupra-Mk1-4wd-Conversion-amp-BW-8374-EFR-Build-Thread/page4


----------



## superkarl (Dec 18, 2012)

I heard someone said diesel was good for removing the sound proofing


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

superkarl said:


> I heard someone said diesel was good for removing the sound proofing


Any other references to support that?


----------



## superkarl (Dec 18, 2012)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Any other references to support that?


No, just saw someone comment it. Worth a shot


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Grahams81 said:


> I bought my "man-tent" :laugh: from Dancover in the UK, excellent value for money and much more robust than some on the market..... it had a box section lower frame that could be screwed into the floor. rather than strings and pegs etc.
> I had mine up for a few years and it would have still been up now if i hadn't of been lazy and re-tensioned the cover.... look in my build thread for pictures of the tent.
> 
> And my missus also hated it, said it looked like somebody had been murdered and there was a forensics tent on the drive :laugh:
> ...


Thanks graham what ended up happening to yours did the weather get the better of it?

Had a quick flick through your thread and really forgot how much valuable info there is in there with regards to the cage fitting etc, think I'm going to have to read it all again :beer:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Might be thinking of my thread on ASN Karl pretty sure it was basil bush that suggested it?


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Post off of ASN



basil brush said:


> By far the best thing to use to remove the "tar" ( actually bitumin ) is diesel
> Take it from someone in the road construction industry
> Thank me later


And the stuff I'd already purchased for formally silverjetta 



StaceyS3 said:


> Thanks basil, will remember that next time
> 
> Ive managed to get it all off so far in the boot and rear seat area its just the driver and passanger footwells left
> 
> I found this on ebay and its been good at removing it although diesel would have been a lot cheaper


----------



## superkarl (Dec 18, 2012)

Tardis is great for paint work. I use that before i clay.


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

superkarl said:


> Tardis is great for paint work. I use that before i clay.


Handy to know, I suppose one day I should learn a little bit about cleaning my car besides taking it to the local hand car wash


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Well went ahead and bought one of these which was also recommended by Graham off of SCN and Vortex

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=331378718703 

Have to say it is really good quality and a solid bit of kit. It will certainly withstand a battering and is currently anchored down by 8 M10 fisher bolts to the concrete drive
The assembly of the shelter itself was quite a challenge as was doing it solo whilst building it around the car! I definately wished I had another set of hands
None the less it's done now and have run power to it and installed 2 35watt PIR LED floodlights. I was going to use tungsten filament floodlights but although the heat from them would have been welcomed from me I think the shelter would have suffered

Am hoping that this will really allow me to crack on with the car through the winter



I managed to get some more tar removed in the drivers seat area, both rear windows removed, bonnet, front bumper/crash bar assembly and then started on the screen....which in the process of starting to cut the sealant out I've managed to crack it! Arse!!

I stopped at this point and called it a day



On another note I've eventually completed a job me and a friend started 18 months ago! This has allowed me to expand my list of parts that are growing in my US shipping mailbox  got some right crackers coming which will really turn this car into an animal


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Had a couple of parts show up today 

Ignore the vibra mounts theyre for my friends mk1 golf, the other parts are steel shifter forks from darkside developments which i think are probably one of the best investments I have made on this build following breaking 2 boxes



That'll hopefully make the next box a bit more durable and able to sustain more abuse


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

details on vibra mounts for a mk1


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Vegeta Gti said:


> details on vibra mounts for a mk1


Sorry to be a disappointment but they're actually mounts for a mk4 and is going to mod the chassis and bay to suite as will give more options in the long run

Will be an animal when up and running as his first goal is to get in the 10's with either a PTE 6266 or 6466! I keep telling him it won't be long until he thinks about converting it to AWD to search for more traction


----------



## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

StaceyS3 said:


> Had a couple of parts show up today
> 
> Ignore the vibra mounts theyre for my friends mk1 golf, the other parts are steel shifter forks from darkside developments which i think are probably one of the best investments I have made on this build following breaking 2 boxes
> 
> ...



:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: for another track toy . that thing is gonna be a monster 
opcorn:opcorn:

Steel Shift forks it is one of the best investments .. also broke mine this summer


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

BR_337 said:


> :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: for another track toy . that thing is gonna be a monster
> opcorn:opcorn:
> 
> Steel Shift forks it is one of the best investments .. also broke mine this summer


Yeah the mk1 will be insane with so much power, little traction (fwd) and light! He's aiming eventually for 1000bhp per ton 

Steel shift forks should hopefully mean my 3rd box is my last lol

Post from ASN

The selector forks look so much more durable and meaty than the original riveted brass examples





Got some more done on the car 

Removed the window assembly from both doors to allow better access and room to move in, I would be removing the whole door but can't get to the hinges whilst tent is assembled and not untying the cover to do so at the moment

The front screen I continued with which was going ok but I managed to break the blade on my cheap eBay tool 



So as being impatient on waiting for another tool and with the screen already having a crack I pursued on using a Stanley knife, screwdrivers and pry bar to try and release the rest of the bonds between sealant and screen.

I still was struggling and couldn't get in the corners so I thought I'd pretend I was in an action movie and push it out with my feet lol

End result is this



You can see the state of the screen on the right

Quick pic of a package sitting in my US forwarding account


----------



## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Couldn't really see . did the glass brake ? 

What's in the box?????


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

BR_337 said:


> Couldn't really see . did the glass brake ?
> 
> What's in the box?????


Yeah the screens a right mess lol, once it started that was it! It just kept cracking everytime I moved it

The box contains some mighty car porn  really need to start shifting other stuff I'm no longer using now


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Got a little more done today

Got the remains of the screen and sealant off

Then set on to removing the rest of the doors as they keep getting in the way, I had to undo the floor anchors for the shelter to shuffle it each way to give me room to access the hinge bolts



I then set out to remove the rest of the tar residue on the pass side



I then set out preparing the areas were the cage will be welded, starting by scraping back the seem sealer



Which then led me onto thinking about seem welding it but to be honest don't know a massive amount about it.
I know that you strengthen the chassis by welding the different parts rather than just the spot welds but really don't know what other benefits or things against doing it are???

This is how state of play is now till the next time



I did manage to get picks of both fork part numbers but somehow managed to loose and delete one of the pics so will grab that again next time



Also a quick pic of the destroyed screen lol


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Big update although not car related 

On Tuesday morning I became a dad again....this time to a son! Both him and Chloe are well and fit 



Not sure on a name yet there's a couple in the line up....

It's going to be brilliant with a son now and hoping I can pass the very little skills and knowledge I have onto him lol, but in seriousness really hope he'll love getting involved and enjoy making and working on things especially with the old man

Think the updates will probably slow a bit now for a while on the car as really have now got my hands full with the two of them

But on the car note did have this appear in my mailing account a while ago


----------



## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Congratulations on the baby brother !!! 
God Bless you and your family.
:wave:
When you get a chance , post your info on the TRACKDAY AUTOCROSS thead so we can compare everyone


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

BR_337 said:


> Congratulations on the baby brother !!!
> God Bless you and your family.
> :wave:
> When you get a chance , post your info on the TRACKDAY AUTOCROSS thead so we can compare everyone


Thanks mate :beer:

What thread is that? Will have to have a little read 

There's a good few things haven't mentioned or told anyone about yet ️


----------



## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

StaceyS3 said:


> Thanks mate :beer:
> 
> What thread is that? Will have to have a little read
> 
> There's a good few things haven't mentioned or told anyone about yet ️


:thumbup:
Its in this forum.. 
Right above yours now lol


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Just finished all the christmas present sorting and sat down to find me HPA have sent me something sort of in time for christmas as is now sitting in my US mailbox, it took its time as ordered it nearly 8 months ago, it will be worth the wait i hope



On another note merry Christmas all hope you have a good one


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

The old man was over today visiting the grandchildren so whilst he was here I got home him to give me a hand getting the shell sitting in a decent position before starting the cage work as definately don't want to weld it in with the chassis pissed and twisted 

Got it in a pretty good and final position, I had to raise it up a good 200mm or so at the back

I used the door sills to check from front to back on each side to which although not level its equal side to side with the front being slightly higher





I then used the crash bar mounts at the front followed by checking in a couple of places at the back to get it level left to right





At the back of the rear seat by the spare wheel well



I offset the front stands to get the different heights and used various bits of wood and metal plates to shim the back to the desired positions







Am hoping to get a nice full day out there before I return to work on Friday but we'll wait and see hey


----------



## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Do work brother ! :thumbup:
I'm also working on car these off days..
Though I'm working on improving aero dynamics.


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

BR_337 said:


> Do work brother ! :thumbup:
> I'm also working on car these off days..
> Though I'm working on improving aero dynamics.


Look forward to the updates  am very interested in aero as is a subject I don't know a lot about and love to learn

Will be looking at aero one day tor the S3 but feel that it's a very long way away yet lol


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Well i feel like i have eventually achieved something whilst working on the car today 

First off i started by removing the front subframe, steering rack assembly and steering column which gave me more room to work in and my friend will be dissecting the subframe for his mk1 golf

I then disconnected as much of the loom as possible bar the two lengths to the rear and threw it out the front window out the way

After the enormous package had sat there for 3 months i decided to crack it open and check the cage over to which there was more pieces than had considered there would be, i layed all the bits out and went through the checklist supplied with the kit





Once all sorted and identified a couple of miss labelled parts i set onto prepping the areas where the feet mount, i used a wire wool attachment as recommended by CC



I then started with the front footplates which are a 3 piece combo per side, they didn't fit to brilliantly and as later found out they all require modifying a tad to fit be it bending, trimming or cutting



Tacked in place for now









The last piece of the A pillar foot plate i will mod and fit later once am finalising the positions of bits



I then went onto the main hoop feet which obviously required a lot more modifying and no clear instructions to how they recommend to do it with only some photos they provide which are just the same as the ones on the website



There was no way that this flat plate was ever going to sit on there well and provide a good solid base





I did try to see if could bend the footplate around the contours of the base area but that was a fail so straightened it back out and resorted to making some witht the material supplied using pics to try and work out the rough area the base of the hoop will be



Good bit of CAD (cardboard aided design) as Prawn would say



Tacked it all into place before removing to run a nice bead down the inside



The other side



Update TBC (probably tommorrow nursing the hangover) as the other half is eventually nearly ready and got to go out and wet my whistle 

Happy new year everyone


----------



## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Jealous !! 
Badass brother 
Keep it up!

:beer::beer:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Thanks mate :beer:

Now have got the front and main hoop footplates sorted i went onto the main hoop position

All i had as instructions were a couple of the pics they supply which helped but couldn't actually pick reference points as is in a R32 mk4 golf







The hoop was without a doubt to tall and there was no chance of it fitting, looking at their pics and the S3 it seems that the 8L has tapers in more near the top of the car and has thicker roof supports/rails, I started off by a couple of minor dents and taking 10mm off each end of the hoop
The hoop also gets pushed right out to the full width of the car with the center bar knocked in, the center bar did need persuading to get in as you can see it preloads the hoop as the gap is narrower in the pic



10mm cut off the base of the hoop



Dent to allow the room







Quite happy with the first trial position of the hoop i then went to offer up the A pillar leg, i already cut 10mm off the bottom to keep it equal and square to the main hoop

I came across the same problem with it being to tight to the roof support above the door and also at the top corner of the windscreen cross support



Its hitting here on the windscreen support stopping it being situated close enough to the a pillar





This is were is to tight to the roof rail above the B pillar



This is the state of play as i finished



My options as i see it are
1. Take more off of the hoop and A pillar tubes to give more room and this will keep the angles the same if take equal on each
2. Try to gain more room by denting
3. Cut room for poles to sit and weld them to the body after but don't want to start cutting the structural part of the car
4. Just for now cut the A pillar poles and go from there

Personally i'm strongly feeling option 1 with maybe a tiny bit of 2 if needed? Whats peoples thoughts and ideas?

Will be a little while before getting back on there as got a 85 hour week ahead 

Thanks


----------



## Gary_808 (Jan 2, 2014)

I'd say option 3, might be cutting the structure but then making it alot stronger linking it in with the cage.


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Gary_808 said:


> I'd say option 3, might be cutting the structure but then making it alot stronger linking it in with the cage.


Thanks Gary

It'll certainly be neater but am worried that will loose some overall strength, as although the cage will aid it I will loose a lot of the original cars strength?

I am planning on tying the cage to the shell in as many places as possible which ever route I go as that I would have thought would definately aid it


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Been meaning to update for a while now but life has been extremely busy with poorly children and myself...poxy cold and flu bugs that keep doing the rounds!

Managed to spend a good bit more time on the car, i ended up taking another 10mm off the main hoop and A pillar uprights which made everything sit a lot nicer to the shell and push the A pillar tubes outwards more.







The screen bar really shows how much different the A3 roof and upper shell profile must be from the golf, i had to cut 4cm off of each end of the screen bar which still provided a nice tight fit that had to be knocked up between the A pillars further forcing them out nearer the A pillars





This brought me onto the roof diagonal, this came profiled on the end to fit into the corner but the other end is just a square cut.
I held it up and roughly marked which part side will be cutting followed by using a profiled cut on another piece to trace the rough profile desired









Now all these are all tacked in this brings me onto the door bars which will put on shortly


----------



## Grahams81 (May 10, 2011)

Nice work, and congrats on the new addition to the family :thumbup:

Have you thought about how your going to weld the roof sections ? you planning on removing the roof skin ? 

Keep up the good work.


----------



## [email protected] (Dec 18, 2009)

Carbon fibre roof skin


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Grahams81 said:


> Nice work, and congrats on the new addition to the family :thumbup:
> 
> Have you thought about how your going to weld the roof sections ? you planning on removing the roof skin ?
> 
> Keep up the good work.


Thanks Graham :beer:

Am hoping as per custom cages demo to use ratchet straps on the front A pillar uprights to pull them off of the foot plates and if needed through a hole in the floor, am hoping that in this process i can pull it forward enough to get the main hoop off of the step also using ratchet straps to pull it in towards the center, have only tacked everything for now.... so watch this space as think itll be more difficult than it sounds pushing it back up onto the feet with how tight it is to the car body


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> Carbon fibre roof skin


Haha now that would look sexual


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

I managed to get onto the door bars which by the looks of things is going to require some modification and decisions as by loosing 20mm off the bottom of the hoop and pillars its changed the positions to where the X mounts....

I started with the one piece diagonal on the pass side then used that to set the angle on my level to get it matching



As you can see its slightly out and the profile on the end didnt match to well so removed some more from there to get it butt up better and level it to the otherside





Forgot to take the pic to show it level....DOH

That brings me onto the diagonals...

1st way which is the correct way but seems very high even to CC's demo pics they supply
If i place them correctly how they're labelled (upper and lower) this is how they sit, they will need a little bit shaved off here and there to get the two to line up correctly but not to much work



My main concern of doing this is that it sits very high and looks as if is going to be an arse to get in and out

2nd way Middle height
This way is to reverse the poles and sit the top one in position and cut the bottom to match to keep a straight line



3rd way (lowest)
This way was to reverse the poles again and sit the bottom one in position and cut the top one which will give the shallowest angle and lowest upper cross bar



The only other downside of lowering the crossbar at the front is that it wont meet the A pillar upright at the same place as the support the front turrett?

Ummmmm decisions decisions, I could go for the practicality route and not even fit the upper X support? Or just accept as i get older and fatter i may not be able to get in the car..

Thats about where im up to at the moment


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Got some more time on the car today 

After looking through more pics i decided to go with the bars in this orientation (the way the drivers side labels also said)



I went round welding as much as i could in situ but then went onto cutting the slots in the floor to drop the front end of the cage through



Using two ratchet straps i pulled both sets of legs in with the front uprights dropping off of the feet and into the slots which i had massively under estimated and lengthened in both directions (if was going to do it again i would just cut a section nice and clean with it a lot bigger than what would need also with cuts a bit more strategically placed for rewelding)





Which gave me access to all these







Heres one of the better welds as vertical and upside down welding is an absolute pig! So the nice weld will be hidden in the void and the not so pretty one will be right in the drivers view lol, I'm still glad i'm doing it myself though as enjoy it and its more satisfying 



Now everything is looking like its correct i revisited the foot plates, started by welding them in permanently followed by cutting up the 3rd side which in hindsight should've cut to fit inside the other piece rather than next to it





Once that was done i set out to lift it back into position and reseat the uprights onto the footplates which due to me making it so tight to the shell involved lots and lots of swearing, sweat, a trolley jack, pry bars, g clamp and a rather large mallet!

I ran a bead around the uprights and that was me done for the day











Hope to get out there again on Thursday for a few hours....thats all for now


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Had a late start due to a rather disturbed sleep from the little ones last night, but none the less got some more done

I hadn't profiled and fitted the support bar at the bottom of the main hoop so quickly set out to do this



I used a welding blanket to ensure that the loom doesn't get damaged, as would be a right pig to find if some spatter shorted between 2 cores



Had to just do my best and do a bit of a hit and hope with the welding of the underside of the tube



Started on the rear by trying to work out the base mounting points, it appears that they mounted them near these two holes in the boot floor pan but when looking they're an unequal distance from the arches





Although they're unequal distance from the arches the arch profiles are slightly different and measuring from another reference on the body confirmed they're in equal positions, the pic just gives an idea of how i measured it as the level is now where near straight in the pic as only got 2 arms 



You got 4 plates labelled for the rear stays, i assumed the one with the hole in goes over the top and the little square one to cover the hole





Then once welded in i measured for the center position and marked the upright position



I opened up both of the wholes in the plates as the upright currently wouldn't fit through, this wasn't a precision affair! I just used the dremmel with a carbide burr



Roughly marked out the raised part where the two panels overlap to cut it out



Then went onto the upper and lower rear stay. The upper stay i trimmed 50mm off and 25mm off of the lower to get it to fit into position. I tacked it all into position to then remove them 3 pieces leaving the footplates and weld it in a more comfortable position where can get to all the joins





Once welded, even with a good few heavy tacks it had pulled together during welding so had to use a ratchet strap to pull the lower stay back into position



Quick pic of the not that pretty but more than functional welds



Then finally a few pics of where its at now (i will be trimming the uprights from the rear feet)









Will be a little while until i can get on it again as going back into full swing of work as of tomorrow


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Got a couple of hours on the car here and there over the last week or so

I started by mounting the one piece diagonal at the rear where i wanted it, then measured half way between the two uprights and where this will cross the center of the diagonal, i then used that to align the 2 piece diagonal using a straight edge to make sure its inline and at the same angle. Once they were in i then slung the harness bars in once again using a large steel rule as a straight edge to check they're in line and level. I forgot to take pics of this bit but heres the finished pic of that section





I did whilst i was doing this section have a little fire due to a rag catching light which stupidly id left solvent right next to, got away with it this time but could of gone horribly wrong



A couple of days ago the missing diagonals from the main hoop showed up so stuck them in, that now means apart from the front turret supports the cage is near complet

Heres some pics of how its looking







That then leaves me with the front turrets, i have these two plates supplied to which think will only use half of each one due to the profile of the turret and by their pics they don't wrap the plates around the turrets



For some reason rather than 4 tubes (2 each side) for the turrets i was supplied 6 tubes? Two of which seem to be clearly the diagonals up to the turret (bottom one in the pic), the next one is the top straight to the turret (2nd one up in the pic), then another tube labeled as vertical front support (3rd one up in the pic)



As it appears the profiled top turret straight appears to short so may have to use the other mystery tube or order some more from CC

I then set out by trying to clean the area as best as possible for welding, i had to use a brush attachment on a drill to get in there



Was an absolute pig to weld as the seam sealant and paint interfered with the weld and very hard to get access to, end result isn't very appealing lol



At this point i had run out of gas, time and didn't have the correct size holesaw i wanted as had forgotten to replace one i had broken a little while ago....DOH so called it a day

I also found that Bill has been marking his territory lol


----------



## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

cracking work man!:thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## ibizacupra (Nov 23, 2001)

nice sticker


----------



## dane. (Nov 16, 2007)

That's quite the jungle gym you have going on in there. Why all the extra bracing?


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Thanks guys :beer:

Bill I'm sure some more B5 stickers will sneak onto the car at some point 

Hi Dane the cage is just a kit from custom cages here in the UK but designated for a R32 mk4, it seemed like one of the most cost effective ways to get a decent fitting and quality cage without paying for a full custom jobby or welding joints on the main hoop etc as knew the golf platform wouldn't be to far off the s3. The cage can be certified to compete at an FIA and MSA level if wanted (costs to have them inspect it and pass a weld stress test)
All in all is probably a lot more than what I need but I think cant be to safe especially in something that should be pretty rapid


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

This car is going to be epic. Hope to see you at the ring this summer :beer:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> This car is going to be epic. Hope to see you at the ring this summer :beer:


Thanks mate :beer: would love to get to the ring this summer but think I'll need to build my confidence up in the car again a bit more first as been over 2 years since driven it now bar 5 weeks on the GTX

Ring is definately on my list though as meant to take the car in 2011 but bent a rod a few weeks before so had to be a passanger in my friends TT


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

StaceyS3 said:


> Thanks mate :beer: would love to get to the ring this summer but think I'll need to build my confidence up in the car again a bit more first as been over 2 years since driven it now bar 5 weeks on the GTX
> 
> Ring is definately on my list though as meant to take the car in 2011 but bent a rod a few weeks before so had to be a passanger in my friends TT


Well, I'll be there at least twice this summer so if you're around you can ride shotgun in mine for a sub 8min lap "Ihope"


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> Well, I'll be there at least twice this summer so if you're around you can ride shotgun in mine for a sub 8min lap "Ihope"


That's an offer I can't refuse 

Will have to try and make sure our paths cross when I head over at some point


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Been having a little look and think over the heating system and suspect that will be able to still squeeze it in but will probably have to loose the actuator for the intake flap that switches between internal and external source



Where the diagonal to the front turrets is going to be passing through the bulkhead it appears it will foul on the actuator, something like this



Does anyone know if can get away with just removing this little bad boy, positioning the flap where I want it and all will still run as norm just with an error code? Bit more of a close up



I've also been doing some thinking on colour of the car to change it to.....
The top favourite at the moment is a light blue, I did suggest the gulf racing colours



But the Mrs shot that one down rather quickly, so something similar but a bit more toned down is currently being considered which I also saw on top gear last night in the test drove M3



Other colours have thought about are different black (maybe Matt), red, white and purple mmmm my mind seems to change daily on other colours but the main one that keeps coming in at the front is the blue with a black interior and roof....opinions and suggestions guys?


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Got an afternoon on the car the other day 

Started off by tacking the other support plate to the drivers front strut tower in places were it was touching



Followed by using a ball pein hammer to help shape it to the tower and welding more as I shape it





I then used a straight edge to eye up and give me a rough mark to cut through the bulkhead.
I tried to keep it relatively high and as close to the wing as possible so could still use the original pollen filter and connector assembly



It was extremely tight and a very poor angle to get a hole saw in to cut the route through the bulkhead so once again the trusty ratchet strap came out to flex the cage which gave me another 15mm or so extra room



To drill the holes I had to use a 11mm socket on the hex of the hole saw and a 1/4 inch extension which made it rather wobbly but none the less with some careful drilling and brute force it got there



The poles that were marked as designated for this location were to short but luckily there was strangely two others that were also 38mm diameter but about an inch longer in the kit with no purpose so these were profiled for the task



Pic of the 3 tubes for each side although only the 2 longer ones get used



Now that I had the top one at the correct position I used this to eye up and cut the hole for the bottom one



Once both were profiled and to the dimensions I was happy with I set about tacking the bottom one in place whilst the Mrs briefly held it and the bottom one in the desired locations



It's not pretty by any means (looks like the pigeons have been at it) and had to keep pulsing it to not get to much heat in and blow it to pieces but I filled the void around the tube to hopefully seal it to the bulkhead (although will also put some kind of sealant over it)

Now that was in position I started to weld the top one in, the join on the 2 tubes I could only get access to weld around 2/3's or so and about 3/4's of where it mates to the turret







Now that was in I done the same on the upper piece were it pass's through the bulkhead and set about filling the gap in. I also forgot to mention but had to cut a couple of slots and bend part of it round to allow me to get the tube in and out



Pigeons also made their way inside the car lol



I also obviously done the same with the other side but won't bore you with the pics, quite chuffed that the loom connector block still fits as well as the pollen filter although can only get one nut on it unless got some ultra thin hands





That now leaves me with only this left of the kit, of which the two tubes are unused 



And got to finish of a shot of the car (although has vastly looked the same every time)


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I'll never complain about small 2hrs jobs on my car again.... :beer:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> I'll never complain about small 2hrs jobs on my car again.... :beer:


Haha yeah know the feeling, it must of been a pretty mammoth task reselling for yourself though :beer:

A good few times during the cage install I wished I had never started it but am quite chuffed now with how it looks and will perform


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Been doing some shopping and lots of thinking....

I've purchased this beauty from demon thieves which with a 10% discount code was the cheapest could find it



I've also been doing a fair amount of American shopping to the result my US mailbox is filling up nicely 

Following a previous phone call with Bill I've decided to make a compartment in the rear over the spare wheel well something like this but to go right to the back of the boot



My current thoughts are to divide it into two with the front half being sealed and airtight, this due to housing the pumps/tanks for fuel and WMI to keep fumes out of the car and to make it safer in event of an accident containing flammable fluids inside. The other side of the partition nearer the bumper was just going to use as a small storage compartment

Am thinking of either a small gauge angle iron frame with panels riveted in to make it or a completely welded box as pictured?

I've also been looking at a replacement battery as my last one expired, I have seen these suggested in a track car thread by mad max iirc, they seem to be very advanced battery tech also with a processor to stop over charge/discharge shutting the battery off but still saves enough charge for a start of the engine for when you attempt to crank it.
To be honest they also seem good value for money as well as being light and small, win/win

https://store.starkpower.com/Starter-Batteries-_c_1.html

Anyone know much about either subjects to through some info in?

Thanks


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

I've used AGM battery up front, yellow top and now Intimidator. Very happy with both of them as they are shock proof and provide good CCA with low weight. 

As you're in UK I assume you won't be running E85?


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Haven't got E85 over here  and I really wanted the car to be more environmentally friendly 

As for battery I'll definately be mounting it either in the cabin or wheel well, I would have continued to use my oddessey but it swelled like a balloon on charge at Bills

This is where i previously had it mounted with full interior behind the trim


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Cool. I guess you made sure those batteries don't need to be installed in a ventilated area?


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

I would purchase the battery dead last, because unlike steering wheels and metal boxes, they have a shelf life


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> Cool. I guess you made sure those batteries don't need to be installed in a ventilated area?


It doesn't say directly on their page but I assume that as can be mounted in any orientation and has no explosive gas's etc should be fine like most other sealed battery's like the oddessey I previously had


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

18T_BT said:


> I would purchase the battery dead last, because unlike steering wheels and metal boxes, they have a shelf life


That is a good point but am doing a parcel consolidation order with shipito as I'm in the UK to which will save a bomb by putting this in with it as save on packaging/shipping costs and makes duty etc easier


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Got a little bit done on the car yesterday 

Welded in the A & B pillar gussets which with a little trimming and bending fitted like so



I did try welding in the V between the B pillar and the plate but wasn't to successful so ended up doing it on the other side through the rear quarter window





This then took me onto a little job in the rear I meant to do a while back, although the kit as CC fit leaves these open, I fancied closing them up



I started by using a bit of CAD to get the rough shape and size of an infill plate



Then once had cut something near the size I tacked a bit of scrap on there to assist the next stage



Once tacked in place I then snapped the scrap piece off and welded round followed by grinding smooth





Car how it stands now



All I can see that I've got left fab wise now is modding the dash bar and welding in, repairing the holes in the floor and the bulkhead compartment in the boot


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Got a couple of hours on the car yesterday before work

Got the dash bar cut and modded to fit in the now a lot tighter space









Have got to work out the positions of these 2 bits that have had to hack off that hold the dash board trim, fuse box etc and weld or fix them in position



Can anyone think of any reason to NOT weld the dash bar in position before I commit and do so (completely forgotten myself if will hinder doing so as have the memory of a goldfish)

On another note had a bit of a wake up call on the way home from work this morning! So now in need of another daily driver


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Been really slacking and very vacant with regards to the updates on this thread

Trying to follow on from where I left the thread after the crash, I broke the golf and scrapped the shell.

I then bought this little gem from a friend for £900! It had a couple of faults including and intake flap fault, EGR, a pebble dashed bumper and a dented/rusty wing. But nothing to serious.







I had a result on a bumper and wing for £140 delivered, refurbished the alloys and last but not least mapped it.
Andrew @ blacksmoke was very helpful as usual and coded out the EGR and intake manifold flap faults to which I also done a EGR delete and has run faultlessly and pulled like a train since 





Now onto the interesting A3 

I set out repairing the slots in the floor that I had previously cut out to drop the cage through. There was 3 layers in some places which was proving difficult to weld each one and seal it without completely burning it off when welding the next layer down











I revisited the dash bar to which after the misfortune in the golf I decided to weld it in place. I then hacked up the old side mounts for the dash bar to use as a datum to weld on the side parts of the dash mount





Forgot to take a picture of it welded to the A pillar tube but you get the idea 

Progress was then come to a grinding halt when I had an accident on a fishing trip with some old friends 



Completely stupid accident and entirely my fault from falling from a tree! Me and my old school friends can get a little childish all together unsupervised by the women but even still ...what a numpty!

On a plus side it did result in a lot of this over summer resting the ankle with torn ligaments 



TBC


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

It now had got to the point of having to make and fit the seat rails. I used details on the steel gauge from the resident crustations thread. Iirc the box section was 30x30x3mm and plates were 50x80x3mm.

I put the seat in on some blocks to get a rough position of how far back I wanted to go and then aimed to place the bars on the centre hole of each set of mounting holes on the seat side mounts





I measured the hole spacings on the seat and used the steering wheel as a centre line to work from, it is surprisingly closer to the tunnel than what first looks like centre





This is roughly how the seat will end up





With the seats in the next natural step was the harness mounting points. I made a big mistake with this at first, I had read on a forum that can be placed nut side up and just went with it. It was then pointed out by prawn and a couple of others that should be the other way up (which makes complete sense when you think of it)

This was the way I originally put them on and after being corrected cut them out and re welded the other way.



I also had a little mishap during welding these in! I had pulled the fuel lines well clear but little to my knowledge as had a respirator on as well as welding mask, the car under seal had caught light rather than the usual smouldering. I realised it was smokey when I lifted the mask up and didn't think to much of it and went to open up the other end of the tent to let air through and upon my return I saw the flames from under the car :0

The under seal had caught light and spread to the fuel lines, I ran indoors and luckily Chloe had just washed up so grabbed the bowl of water and frantically chucked at the underside of the car. I got away with it and put it out but has made me rethink and pay more attention.

Picture really doesn't look that bad but can assure you was producing some rather large flames



Finished mount welded on (the right way round lol)



Next up was to start prepping for paint and sealing any areas up that were exposed from welding/fabricating and I also applied some filler to any damaged areas where removed a lot of spot welds

I used some hammerite rust remover on anywhere with a sign or surface rust followed by washing the car inside 3 times, which was a very weird sensation 

The rust remover left a rather brown mark after cleaning it off but this cleaned off to a certain degree with solvent





Seam sealant was applied on the welds through to the bulkhead followed by good old hammerite direct to rust



Same process was applied to the underneath of the shell and anywhere else out of the internal cabin area

TBC


----------



## craigalangibson (Dec 27, 2003)

Love seeing updates on this. :thumbup:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Thanks dude will do my best to keep on top of it now :beer:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Think that now brings me pretty much up to the painting stage 

I learnt a lot why doing this and as usual part of the learning process had to involve a mistake or two. I'd never painted or had even the slightest knowledge of painting with a spray gun so lots of research was in order.

Grahams81 on vortex and SCN have me some very good advice and was very helpful. (Thanks Graham )
I went with a Sata minijet 4 and set on 2 pack paint from Graham's recommendation and plenty of research. A local paint supplier stocked MIPA and recommended them so that's what I went with.



I also with being 2k paint that was using for the main colour decided to buy an air fed devilbiss mask and 3 stage filter. They're quite expensive but found one on eBay that an old boy had used just once to paint a mini so was like new and got a good price so was over the moon







Compressor wise I've got a 50l 3hp twin cylinder comp that picked up a while ago from one of my old supervisors, this although pretty capable for its size wouldn't be enough to run the gun and mask. I managed to borrow one in the end from a friends dad which was a bonus.
2 pack paint is very dangerous and if not respected can kill you and others as a byproduct is isocyanate (form of cyanide!!!) this to be honest was enough to make me really think everything over I was doing and really take my time when using it.
One compressor is enclosed in my garage and if I used this to feed my mask I would have been stuffed as the garage did fill with fumes being so close. Following this I placed the other comp at the furthest point in the garden right in the corner by the wall. The comp I borrowed was a 2hp single cylinder 90l and surprisingly was having to run flat out to keep up and maintain a decent pressure to the mask.





My thoughts then went onto the car tent. This had been thoroughly cleaned and swept out along side all the car cleaning, but also needed something to help remove the gas's and overspray. I made a panel up with some left over MDF and bough a cheap kitchen extract fan from eBay for just under £30 as proper industrial extract fans were a lot more. This certainly helped, it could have done with more but wasn't prepared to spend that kind of money on it.







The gun itself I kept a small cup on this small smart repair sized gun which along with being accompanied by this UJ allows you to try and get in a all the small nooks and crannies.



Here comes the first mistake....I set my regulator to the pressure recommend by the paint/primer which iirc is 4 bar whilst little did I know the max pressure for the gun was 2 bar, I had no instructions etc and wasn't until I was cleaning it later I saw it faintly etched on it.



Whilst spraying at this pressure it naturally created a lot of over spray and a poor finish. This was only for the first coat as rectified it there after for the further coats.

Here's a few pictures of how it stands after priming 











TBC


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Priming was now finished which brings me onto painting 

This is were a lot of care is needed using the 2k paint! I made sure I done it on a day when kids were out and neighbours weren't about.

The primer had left a very rough finish, weather this was from the over spray or just the way it usually goes? I had no intentions of flattening the whole car down as would take me forever and I was getting impatient plus most of it will not get touched or anybody be going near. In the footwell I thought it is actually a bonus lol. I flattened the cage in the door bar areas and anywhere within the reach of driver/passenger.

By this point I had worked out where I wanted to be with the gun settings and got a bit of a feel and confidence behind me and the paint went on a lot better than the primer with no runs (that I've found anyhow) and could of actually laid the paint on thicker to get a smoother finish.

The shop when purchased had only given me 1l of black and said it would be enough...which later found out it wasn't and ideally would have wanted 1.5-2l, this then meant I had to be selective to where I wanted it thicker/thinner as couldn't get more on the day 







One other thing I learnt is I could have done with more lighting as although the 2 LED floodlights give reasonable lighting it wasn't enough when wearing the mask and having the tent completely sealed up. Once it had all dried I noticed one or two spots in not entirely happy with.

One of them spots being the passenger side main hoop has got a nice white stripe on it that missed. I did really underestimate how difficult it is to spray the inside of a caged car and get all angles without touching, leaning on and treading all over wet paint.





I'm intending on touching up a few bits at a date in the near future when have got a decent bit of time and to borrow a second compressor again, plus have got to spray the ally panels for the fuel/battery cell as completely forgot about them whilst doing the car.

TBC


----------



## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

Nice work Stacey - love the extra details on what worked what didn't... always an adventure hey!


----------



## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Awesome work bro .
Contrast


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Thanks guys 

Do think it's worth noting my mistakes and areas I fcuked up on as helps others to hopefully not learn the hard way like me and not afraid to say I messed up either as all is part of learning, plus some of it entertaining lol


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

A few more pics of the car after painting and with the masking removed











Also some car porn bits that have been sitting over the states for a fair amount of time in my mailing account and there's also more to come at a later date 

A fair few of these parts are for the mk1 gold build I'm also involved in with my friend, we're both looking to enter some drag series next year with himself going for the FWD completion clutch series all being well 

This one mainly contained parts for the mk1 apart from some smaller bits for me like 2 044's, head gasket etc



This one for myself had my turbo, clutch, HPA controller, Devils own direct port and various nozzles etc to play with.



Full race for the mk1 golf (absolutely sexy I may add! Do love this mani)





My HTA3586 with bronze bearing upgrade (although was supposed to have they're own slightly smaller comp cover but will have to make this one work)



I've gone for the 8.5' twin plate clutch masters were as the mk1 will sport the 7.25 as he's really aiming for a really revvy engine





TBC


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Gearbox time

I owe a lot of this work down to Andrew and the 02M build thread on here 🏻 🏻 I had planned shift forks and some kind of strengthening of the casing but the thread pointed me straight towards the epytec gear. Thanks for pointing them out mate 

The main reason my car was taken off of the road in the last occasion was due to a shift fork breaking and this is the second box have now done this to :facepalm:



Steel shift fork next to it



A while back one of my saved ebay searches picked up on a R32 used peloquin LSD about 20 miles from my work, so a bit of bartering back and forth and I managed to get a nice price on it 
Would love to get a rear diff at some point as well but unless a used one pops up that'll b a long way away.

The crownwheel was different on the LSD compared to my mine as must have been for a different ratio, so this meant needed changing it over.



Whilst I was changing the diff crownwheel over I put some new bearings on. It's worth going to local bearing suppliers for these as I paid only a very little more for 2 from them as Audi for 1.



Part # in the pic



Whilst the box was apart I gave it a thorough clean, starting with the jet wash, followed by solvents with a rotary wire wheel to loosen up tough bits and finally another jet wash.
Once was it clean and was happy I slapped some silver hammerite on there to tart it up a little.



I the same Andrew opted for the casing support plate, 4th gear support and billet shaft mod.





4th gear support







Billet shaft mod



Even though it had to be pressed in I did put two blobs in there with the mig to further make sure I doesn't migrate back out.

I then on reassembly of the casings found that the hex bolts for the casing support plate were fowling on the welds and shafts. I used a paint pen to help reassure where it was fowling.



I ended up grinding around 3mm off of the heads of the bolts, chamfered the edges/corners and also removed a bit of the weld had put on the input shaft to get it to a point where I was happy with it.

Am hoping this should give me a nice solid box to last some time until/if I ever look at changing gear sets 

TBC


----------



## craigalangibson (Dec 27, 2003)

How much power would you need to reinforce the casing like you did? And where did you get the billet shaft and supports?


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

craigalangibson said:


> How much power would you need to reinforce the casing like you did? And where did you get the billet shaft and supports?


Not sure can put a number on a torque figure but it's a known occurance with high power drag cars when launching.

The parts them self come from a German company called epytec or if not darkside performance in the UK sells them


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Sorry forgot say billet shaft isn't a part that was bought, it's a steel core that has been turned, pressed in and then welded to make sure doesn't migrate out at a later date 

Andrew A.L.D was the person that inspired me to do these mods


----------



## craigalangibson (Dec 27, 2003)

Tough stuff. :thumbup:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Knew I'd have some time spare in the workshop at work so brought my manifold in to have a play with the direct port kit.

I thought quite a bit about nozzle positions, 1. Was as close as possible to the head inlet on the opposite side to the injectors but was concerned about it effecting the fuel spray angle and mist.
2. Was a bit further up the runner to avoid interference with fuel injector.
3. Was in the plenum either opposite the trumpets or on the underside in line with them but worries was wouldn't get even flow distribution to all cylinders.

I ended up going in the underside of the runners at a very slight angle pointing towards the head. I went for the underside as thought it looked tidier and positioned them as close to the plenum as possible as leaves room for another set of nozzles for Nitrous if I decide to do so at a later date (what I really mean is if the Mrs will ever let me as she's been very stern with this for a few years and don't seem to be moving lol)





I tapped the tapered thread just about deep enough so the nozzle will ever so slightly protrude on one side and sit flush on the other as it is at a slight angle





I mounted the methanol manifold as tight as possible to the pneumatic manifold to try and reduce the angles on the pipework

This is currently how it looks, not to in your face and quite stealth I'm pleased to say 





TBC


----------



## FatAce (Jan 30, 2012)

Sub'd :thumbup:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Had decided that wasn't happy with the paint job and the bits I had missed on the cage so committed to putting another coat or two over the top as had previously run out of paint.

I went out and bought two twin 400w floodlights aka task lighting to provide some better light in the dark tent as that was why previously had missed bits and not been able to see them



The tedious task of masking then followed....
I wasn't anywhere near as particular as last time, previously had cut the tape around windows etc with a Stanley but this time just threw it on there and was happy belongs was close to the edge



I started off by priming the infill panels for the fuel power area.



Little did I know but the weather man was wrong and after a few coats of primer we had a little down pour and they were brought in 

A pic (as I forgot last time) of the second compressor in the corner of the garden which is used to feed the air fed mask.



Right now onto the car spraying

I flattened down and keyed up all of the cage but didn't bother to much with the rest as hadn't intended on throwing paint down on there.

I was a bit better prepared this time with supply's as was told I'd only want a litre of paint last time



I don't usually do "selfies" but here's one of me all suited up with air fed mask and filter belt



Didn't get anymore pics until the end but long and short of it is didn't paint the floor at all until was satisfied with everything else.

I ended up putting another litre down and it all went on a lot better than before and also finish was a lot better  I think a lot of this was probably down to a very thorough gun clean and of coarse more experience







The infill panels finished, they did have a few spits of rain interfere with the finish



I sprayed it a fair bit thicker this time and it seems to have payed off, I did get a couple of runs but these were only were was trying very hard to defeat physics spraying the tops of poles and round corners lol

Tomorrow I'll pull both ends of the tent down to get as much light in as possible to double check everything before i return the second compressor.

On another note I completely cooked the brakes on the A3 coming home through back lanes from work in the early hours of the morning. This has now resulted in warped discs when they warm up and a terrible pedal feel due to boiling the fluid.

I did look at upgrading from 288-312's but then come across these for not much more


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Little update

Feel like I've done more on the daily lately than the interesting car 

I t had got round to her service time and whilst was at it I thought would sort some seized rear bushes, fit the front brakes and for good measure have a tinker with the exhaust.

Side by side, originals and S3 345mm



Fitted they fill the 17' wheel nicely





The rear lower arms are adjusted by an eccentric bolt and washer that pass through the bush but unluckily for me had seized, the only way was to cut the bolts with a cutting disc and removed the bushes with a holesaw





Last but not least whilst the car was in the air I thought it would be rude not to inspect the contents of a cat 



The brakes have really transformed the car and love them! Got so much more confidence in it now, the decat has definitely given it a nice whistle on spool up and when coasting along but don't feel much different other wise.

Enough about the boring derv and onto the more interesting car 

I set about riveting and sealing the panels in place on the cell in the rear of the car. I used a fire retardant silicone sealant to be extra sure.







I've got a couple of high strength sprung loaded clasps to fit at a later date to hold the lid down as well as a seal strip around the top.

I'm hoping to eventually swap all lines over to stainless braided AN gear and custom made housings/junctions. I made a billet head coolant flange a while back, now have a direnza alloy rad that am planning to weld AN bungs on so an alloy thermostat housing would complete it nicely so can run custom hoses in and out.

Head flange previously made



I started with a block of ally to which I cut a section off and drilled and tapped a hole in the centre to hold it to turn as not got a 4 jaw chuck here at sainsburys





Forgot to take the pic but had the work the other way round on the bolt which then gave me the face to hold it on in the picture





I will weld a pipe on once know how it needs to go and will Dremel the rear out with a burr to make a smooth transition between the two once welded





I had another long awaited parcel arrive with some more of mine and Simons parts for the S3 and mk1 golf 



TBC


----------



## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

Great to see an update - nice work so far on the thermostat housing too :beer:


----------



## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Stacy you do some nice work..... I always like your updates. 🏻🏻


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Some good work Stacey! :thumbup:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Thanks guys much really appreciate it 

Will be getting back in contact soon Max regarding the AEM kit once a job change and Christmas is out of the way


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Parcel contained the long awaited IECVA1 cams and IE dual surge tank for both cars, a BRM flex hone tool for myself and a lithium ion battery for the S3 

Cams look like a lovely product and can definitely see the profile is a lot smoother than the OEM cams



Here's a comparison picture with OEM cams that have borrowed from the net, think it's Graham's thread so hope he doesn't mind me borrowing it



The battery is pretty unbelievable how light it is! It only weighs just over a kg and is potentially more powerful than the original lead acid battery that was on the car.
The battery although only stated at 21ah's uses the power in a different way to a conventional battery as that you can actually use nearly all the charge in the battery due to the output voltage not dropping the lower the charge like a conventional battery.
It is suggested that you only use the top 30% of the charge of a conventional battery and that renders a lithium battery 3-4 times more efficient thus needing a lower ah rated battery. 
Following this concept I could of possibly got away with the 12/15ah models but personally didn't want to risk it.



The battery also has a built in processor that prevents you discharging the battery to much to damage it but leaves enough charge in reserve to start the engine. The processor can discriminate against a slow constant discharge compared to the effort of trying to start the motor with a sudden large draw in current so always will leave this in reserve for you.

Specs of battery



Surge tank same as the single is a lovely piece of kit 



I used 4mm tri-rated cable as is only going to be inches from the battery haven't got to worry about volt drop





It will probably be mounted in a position not to different to this as will be brilliant to pick up straight off of the in tank pump and can slip the -6an hoses will be using through the OEM fuel line locations (I hope lol)





TBC


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Following reading a couple of other people having issues with rings not reseating after pulling a motor apart and rebuilding I decided to buy a flex hone to deglaze the bores (although in reality was hardly bed in just wanted to be sure)

I set about pulling it apart again. God bless ARP's 





After a quick hone



Pistons back in and left at half stroke for plenty of clearance to valves





ARP crank bolt....bloody hell that has to be done up tight! I thought the OEM stretch bolt was bad but this iirc is 105nm plus 1/4 turn. Trusty home made crank holding tool come out 



Had to put the holding tool between my legs and under the anchored bench to get the desired torque





Now onto fitting the head. I had ordered a thicker head gasket than the usual N/A one I ran last time to help with the comp ratio. The OEM BAM one is 1.6mm thick but bore is only up to 82.5, N/A is 1.1mm thick and can take 83mm pistons, the IE one feels like a modified OEM as can feel a slight burr like bore size has somehow been machined to allow 83mm pistons with standard 1.6mm thickness.

Pic of all three, Top is IE, middle OEM BAM and bottom is the N/A (can't remember what from)



In same order







Now the head is installed (sorry lack of pic) I started building up the camshafts. I found an old tapered sleeve had made to aid fitting the seals







Timed up as per OEM although one of the cams the machined groove didn't protrude through to the other side of the sprocket so marked it this side myself with a sharpie to make it easier to time up. Pic shows groove from sprocket side





The engine how it now stands 







I also briefly tried trial fitting the turbo and due to the bigger comp cover will have to modify the oil drain and downpipe as the turbo has to be turned on the v band.



Comp cover is extremely close to waste gate pipe but does clear





Due to comp position I'm now swapping cam cover studs to stainless bolts



That's all for now


----------



## Junk T.I. (Sep 18, 2003)

Awesome stuff going on in this thread, motivating me to get cracking on mine....


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Love it Stacey, the build is going be epic when it's finished!

PS: yeah, just let me know whenever you're ready.


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Awesome work Stacey! 

btw, those rear control arms look like mine when they broke in half. Metal was only 1mm thick at places.


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Cheers guys

Yeah does seem that way Oistien, the OEM arms don't seem to be the strongest of things and would have thought would be stronger on the mk5 chassis after 225 ones breaking.

Update

On a non car related matter, I've got a new job again starting tomorrow for a large global pharmaceutical manufacturer called GSK as a technician in the respiratory sector. Will be lots more to learn and newer tech compared to what have been working on  Looking forward to learning the ins and outs of how their electromagnetic conveyor and rotary clamp systems work.

On a downside I expect once again will be a large reduction or complete stop with regards to homework and research on car related stuff at work.
But all in all happy to be going back to a faster paced production environment compared to automation. Did have fun playing with this kit and the cranes though 



Now off of the boring stuff and onto the car 

Now I've got all my bits for the fuel and power cell area I started on fabricating the mounts etc.



I found some nice heavy duty rubber mounts to hopefully isolate any noise from the pumps. They should be more than strong enough as we mount 10kg compressors on them at work



I've got myself a 3 quart wmi tank now due to height restrictions, this then meant unless I bent the lines round I would have to rotate the pump as inlet was on the wrong side.



I very quickly slapped some hammerite paint on to stop it rusting. It was literally slapped on as not fussed about cosmetics inside here and I had a sausage sandwich waiting indoors lol



A few pics of how its at now







I've used the seat belt anchor as an earth and have got to put some other wiring relays etc in there yet but besides that it's getting there 

I'm planning on using this relay at the mo as is a freeby had lying around from either the derv golf or stuff have removed from here. Only downside I can see at the mo is that I've got nothing to mount it with bar cable ties? I will pick the feed up off of the original pump to turn the relay on and then just run the pumps with positive fused from the battery.





May be a little while before get some time on the car as believe I'm on mon-fri for the first few weeks on the new role.


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Before I left my job I played around with some more bits as will probably loose the typical engineer homework rights at my next firm

I know this will probably shake me to bits and may not like it but thought I'd give it a go in aid of experimenting, plus didn't cost me anything or my own time 





Here's my old dog bone mount with poly inserts, the front round one has taken a bit of a battering and plan was to just replace that with a pressed in spherical bearing.
I ordered a 38mm Od bearing as bore was this size, after cleaning all the crap out of the ally casting it made the bearing not a tight enough fit for my liking, so have aborted the 38mm bearing idea.



I may return to the idea of using the rubber end of the OEM mount at the subframe and some form off spherical bearing or rose joint at the gearbox end. I may return to using the casting and increasing the bore for a 40mm bearing as was a lot more choice at that size and can get a nice interference fit.


----------



## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Congrats on the new job 🏻. I hope it doesn't take time away from updates on this thread 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

One-Eight GTI said:


> Congrats on the new job 🏻. I hope it doesn't take time away from updates on this thread
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks :beer:

It will take more of my time to start with but will mean I have to do less or no private work once finish my 9 months training and get another rise 

Plus will be more money for the car


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Where did you source the Stark Power battery? I went to purchase one from them recently and most sizes are listed as no longer available on their website.


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

20v master said:


> Where did you source the Stark Power battery? I went to purchase one from them recently and most sizes are listed as no longer available on their website.


Just bought it off of they're website but was a good few months ago.

Iirc they was sold out if the 15ah model when I ordered


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

My lightweight heater has shown up  saw it on FB on a bloke called Dan's page and certainly swayed me to keep a heater as had committed to ripping mine out.

It looks like a very well made product and is very light and compact.







Have also purchased their lovely billet -10An - 1/2 barb fittings to convert over from my AN lines.

I stupidly had assumed the speed controller/dial and ducting was included :facepalm: so am going to be ordering relevant bits shortly


----------



## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Stacey do you have a link to that heater box ect. Looks nice and compact.


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Yeah it's lovely and light compared to OEM and from other people's reviews and what the site says it's very capable for its size.

http://www.t7design.co.uk

They have quite a selection, this model is the 3.5kw model with the side vents


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Got a few hours on the car this afternoon.

Managed to get the WMI line run in through the passenger side chassis leg. I filled a hole and used a rubber bung to protect it.

I've left a little extra at the tank end and managed to feed it through from the pump side



Tied it to the rear brake lines down the side of the fuel tank







Comes out under the passenger side chassis leg ready to go to the solenoid



Mounted the master cut off ready for the power cable run, pretty sure it's the same place as prawny





I then set about hacking the dash up so can start working out positioning of the heater and other objects.

I had to cut quite a bit more away than I first originally thought but was quite pleased with the fit









The holes on the side mounts I hacked up and tacked on lined up nicely 



Hoping to get on there again at some point over the weekend


----------



## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Wow ! 
Awesome progress man. Cant wait to see it finished :thumbup::beer:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

BR_337 said:


> Wow !
> Awesome progress man. Cant wait to see it finished :thumbup::beer:


Thanks dude, am hoping to be up and running by Feb/March but will have to wait and see 

Got a few more hours out on the car today 

I had a little play with the dash and the ducting for the screen vent. The assembly is designed to direct airflow round to the little round vents in the top of the dash for the side windows which I've now cut the integral ducting in the dash.
To try and limit the air escaping out of the sides I cut the duct down so sits inside the recess now and will hopefully direct most of the airflow up and out to the screen where I want it.







I will be looking at some way of securing it a bit better in the future.

I then set on blanking off the no longer needed openings in the bulkhead that was for the OEM heater matrix and aircon heat exchanger.



Usual CAD template used



Only quickly rough cut them out and riveted them on with fire retardant silicon to aid a seal. The billet an10 to 1/2' hose tail adaptors are a well made bit of kit and look the part







I now head back on to the wiring including the battery power feed and mounting the fuse box

The fuse box power cable was a tad on the short side so opened it up and prised open the connector as isn't a run of the mill connector and would need to reuse it



Squeezed a longer cable core in there and crimped it back down with aid of the vice, screwdriver and hammer





I fitted it in the passenger footwell where should be out of the way but still accessible



I reused the cable I had previously used for my battery relocation, it's 50mm* tri-rated iirc. Used a stuffing gland to get it into the sealed box





I'm waiting for some p-clips to secure it in place, but should be something like this with the loom cable tied to it.



Come up the front turret diagonal then through the redundant airbag mount and through another stuffing gland



Will be terminated at the master cut off with the feed to the fuse box and the supply to the starter motor once I put that in



Have started putting the loom back in now and just got to sort through all this mess then definitely will be on the road to reassembly


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Got the day on the car yesterday and am afraid to say that although I got some bits done it was no where near as productive as I would have liked

I set out at having another look at the fueling system and to start plumbing it in to work out what fittings will be needed.

The route I had hoped to run was pretty simular to the OEM lines but this bracket next the OEM filter and the breather line was in the way.



The beige breather line that was there runs up to this valve that stops and kind of air/fuel passage if not level incase of a roll over etc. 



So before I set about shortening the line I wanted to confirm the valve worked correctly but removing it as per ELSAWIN and trying to breathe though it at various angles. It worked fine so I proceeded by citing the line back to behind the rear wheel

Now this was clear and had cut off the line holding bracket in the first pic I set about trying to feed the hose through with no luck!

There appeared to be more brackets or something else obstructing it. I dropped the tank down by and inch or so by releasing all the bolts and braces and resting it on the prop. This allowed me to get my hand in and confirm my fears over another welded on bracket. Doh!

At this point I decided that to check pipes were in properly when I pull the tank back up and for future access, I cut an access hole which will seal an aluminium plate down on top later.



Once cut open was clear what was stopping me!



After attacking it with the Dremel and pulling the tank back up into position it looked like this



I then threaded the hoses through and pulled them in. Front to back it now looks like this with OEM colour coding to keep the forum moderator happy.













That was haulted due to waiting on some bits including hose fittings, second filter, filter holder and hose clamps. Once they arrive can crack on and get the tank end and right through to the engine bay completed.

During the process of working a few things out in my head I realised I had completely forgotten about the cable from the alternator to the fuse box.

The old one was in a bad way and now I've relocated the alternator it will be to short.



It had another on the ring crimps with a captive nut so set about swapping that.





I couldn't deal with the yellow so run some black insulation tape down it. I pulled it in through the bulkhead with the rest of the loom and terminated it at the fuse box



This left me with a little bit of time before Chloe and the kids were due to be home so started to tidy the loom up and tape it all together. Suppringly this went quite quickly and have got most of it tucked in where it should be.



That's all for now. Just waiting on a few bits to arrive and got a few other things that are in the making and should hopefully come through in the near future


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Anyone know of many examples of people relocating the shift tower? I removed mine the other day and will be relocating it on top of the tunnel in some manor with the cables going through the bulkhead.



Previously the cables were trying to play twister with the wastegate exhaust where it drops into the tunnel to merge with the downpipe.





I will have to wait until the engines in to work out exactly where can go through the bulkhead but current idea is probably to raise it a little above the tunnel on the inside of the car which will bring it up to a bit more of a comfortable position nearer the wheel.

Been meaning to add a bit more detail on the team I've joined and will be running with them at Santa pod next year 

I've been good friends with Simon for some time, he's won at Santa pod USC in the A class for iirc 4 out of the 6 years he's taken part, the other 2 he didn't he had gearbox failures :racer:

His best time iirc was 12.4 quarter mile which for a 2.0 N/A car with no power adders like nitrous etc and have to be a road legal car including TYRES I think is quite impressive!

We will both be competing this coming year with some very fresh builds in regards to drag racing and hoping to iron out issues and shake the cars down pretty quickly to start setting some respectable times!

Please have a quick gander at our page and like and share it 

https://www.facebook.com/Pro-Race-Engineering-1033319353367871/


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Had the day on the car yesterday.

Feel I made some good progress and hoping shouldn't have to crack the welder out any more now. It does seem that whenever any fabricating is involved it seems to take a lot of time for what looks like to not be much gain

I started by continuing with putting the loom in its desired resting points, to which found this no longer had one of the mounting points



I welded a bit of flat bar with a bolt tacked through it to mount the other side





I then moved onto the fuse box which its usual home now has a lump of tube in its place, done a similar thing by welding a bit of flat bar in place to mount it



The passenger side was a similar story with no mount existing for the lateral sensor. I just cut the bracket down and drilled and tapped a hole in the dash bar





Whilst I had the welder out I saw it as the best opportunity to sort out remounting the shifter on top of the tunnel followed by the heater



I cut the lip and mounting bolts off the top of the tunnel and then once had drilled holes in the correct location tacked some bolts of from the underside of the tunnel so are captive



Will make the holes through the bulkhead for the cables once engine is in

After much umming and ahhing I made my mind up on how to mount the heater. I was governed a lot by the lack of materials as would have loved to rivet some ally bar in place to hold it.



Welding was far from pretty here as was laying upside down, struggled to grind the paint off and seemed to be reacting with some seam sealer that seeped through once was heating up.

None the less it looked horrible but it's attached and not going no where 





I've put one pipe on direct and will route the other to a tap somewhere to regulate the flow and hopefully control the heat and shut it off in summer



This is where it's at now with only the centre console to finish to complete the dash, the centre console will have a few switch for heater and a few other various things. The main feature of the dash will be a centre mounted Windows tablet to display live data from the ECU like this.



Got to love technology, no more need for gauges


----------



## CorrieG60 (Jan 18, 2004)

Nice update!!
About that windows tablet, maybe a better idea to mount it in front of you(where the original speedo used to be) so you can get a better view on the gauges in stead of having to look down to see what's going on?? For displaying speed you can use a simpel external gps mouse and a small gauge in the windows screen?


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Thanks Corrie

Sorry wasn't to clear, I'll still be using the original clocks, dis and odometer but will be using a tablet to display every extra bit of data possible like boost, all temps, AFR etc.

The picture in the email was provided by Max aka Marcus Aurelius on here of live data from the Infinity ecu on his laptop. My plan is to have a tablet connected displaying same sort of info

TBH not sure if will even looking at the clocks to much either as reckon will be to scared to take my eyes off the road once this is done


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Very busy this week and coming weekend at work so no real time to progress much on the car 

I managed to sneak out for a couple of hours as really want to get my turbo oil drain and downpipe sorted before the Christmas holidays as am worried it will hold me up as should be able time permitting start looking at dropping the engine in.

All of the turbo lines and downpipe need tweaking due to the bigger comp cover meaning turbo has to be spun on the v-band to allow clearance.

First off started with the most crucial, the oil drain. The flanges for the drain even though supposed to be the same CHRA for GT30 and Gt35 turbo's have different hole spacings.

First of I tried just elongating the holes but wasn't happy with the result so cut the flange off to get the new one welded on, here's them both side by side



I filled the pipe to angle desired to get fitment and scribed the position as well as a more obvious pen mark



Should sit something like this once a friend has welded it



Next up was the coolant feed, this just required a little persuasion with a mallet and vice to bend and tweet it a little.

From turbo to block











For the lines this then leaves the oil feed which is flexible and the coolant return but this will be in AN6 line and will have to wait until I'm decided on a few other bits like header tank etc

The end result with turbo position allows me to just about remove the back right cam cover bolt and sits pretty tight to the wastegate



Last but not least I had the exhaust to sort, from spinning the turbine and changing over to the snail turbo turbine has without a doubt moved to a place it needed to be cut and shut

I couldn't get it anywhere near the temp bracing mounting holes until I cut this off





After a bit of fettling and cutting slithers off here and there it sat in like so



I had previously bought some stainless wire for the MIG to get me out of trouble if need be even though I've only got argoshield gas and not pure argon or helium.
I went to use this wire to which I quickly realised the tiny hole in the spool was about a third of the diameter of the spool holder...doh

I got a little creative and used a big M12 bolt with a combination of spring washers for preload and nuts to hold it to create my own holder lol





Now I'd got over that I put a couple of tacs on ready for a friend to weld it



Only thing was I got q bit carried away 



All in all it felt criminal cutting up some beautifully crafted stuff and barstardising it but needs must and all that.

Also I've now decided I definitely need a TIG welder in my life! But I feel it's to late for my request to get to Santa this year so one may have to sneak it's way into the garage next year 

Hope may get out in the garage a fair bit next week as only got one shift


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Great Job and update, keep'em coming. Don't feel bad about bastardazing a few things, functionality > visual appearance...sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. :beer:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Great Job and update, keep'em coming. Don't feel bad about bastardazing a few things, functionality > visual appearance...sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. :beer:


Cheers mate i know what you mean, i just want to get it back together now one way or another and if i can save a little time here and there i will do,

Plus the outside of the cars looked battered and bruised for a while....I was always told its on the inside that counts


----------



## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

Depending on the grade of stainless and assuming it was only a single pass, you might be ok with corrosion resistance (although CO2 concentrations over 2.5% can start to introduce oxides). While time will tell, you'll probably be ok. 

And it's farrrr from the ugliest MIG weld I've ever seen. You can always go over it with TIG, with no filler and a slow pulse, to give the visible areas a smooth ripple 

Looking great!


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

suffocatemymind said:


> Depending on the grade of stainless and assuming it was only a single pass, you might be ok with corrosion resistance (although CO2 concentrations over 2.5% can start to introduce oxides). While time will tell, you'll probably be ok.
> 
> And it's farrrr from the ugliest MIG weld I've ever seen. You can always go over it with TIG, with no filler and a slow pulse, to give the visible areas a smooth ripple
> 
> Looking great!


Thanks I think I'll take that as a compliment 

It's always good to hear the reasons why it was wrong as knew it was the wrong gas and had guessed was to do with contamination but always welcome the advice and answers as know for next time 

Not overly fussed about cosmetics but would be nicer if was pretty :beer:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Got some time on the car over the last couple of days.



I started off by refitting all to the heatshields, exhaust components and propshaft back on under the car. Nothing to interesting to see there.







Next off i started tackling the drivers side loom to the rear of the car, this only now has the OSR wheel speed sensor and fuel pump wires. The WMI loom had previously been contiuous from the unit to pump and tank which if i ever wanted to remove parts of the dash became very difficult as the cables were threaded through a hole smaller than the controller. Following this i decided to put a joint of the WMI loom with bullet and spade connectors.







I wrapped the WMI loom in with the other parts running to the rear on that side.







All tied in place with wheel speed sensor back in place and pump/WMI cables glanded into the box







Pump and WMI cables with a feed taken off for the surge tank pump relay to be added soon







Whilst fitting the loom i also fitted the rear lights, rear inner arches after the wheel speed sensors were in position and haldex lead including the HPA TMAP







In the meanwhile i had some other parts show up.



Remaining heater parts from T7 design including more pipework, remote heater valve with beldon cable to adjust via a dash mount dial and multi position fan speed switch to add resistors to give you your different fan speeds.







Fuel filter bracket which has winging its way from China for the last month or so, AN fitting for wastegate coolant feed and turbo oil drain back from AD Fabrications. I'm pleased to say that AD Fabrications are now sponsoring Pro-race Engineering for 2016 and future seasons 







Now that the fuel filter bracket has arrived this allowed me to really crack on with the lines in the fuel cell area.







In case you are un aware the system almost works on 2 loops.



One loop goes. Intank pump - filter - surge tank - back to tank, this shouldn't ever really run at any pressure and keep circulating fuel keeping the surge tank full



Second one runs, housed twin pumps - fuel filter - fuel rail - fuel reg - surge tank. This is what supplys the injectors and engine with the desired fuel pressure set by the fuel regulator.



I had previously come accross an issue where my billet fittings couldn't be pushed down far enough over the fittings shoulder to click in place and retain them, i managed to find these on ebay which although are a hose tail fitting should be fine as not under any real pressure.







In the fuel cell area it does look a bit busy and chaotic the way the lines run but was a bit limited with space and options to run them, all in all they're all secure and there shoudn't be any way can rub or chaff as have got line spreaders holding them all in place.















To mount on the underside of the car I ended up drilling the M3 hole in the mounts out, retapping them to M4 and bolting them through the floopan with a penny washer







TBC


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Next up as i had the remaining heater parts i thought I'd tackle it and try and finish off as much as possible behind the dash.



I had looked at various options of remote heater valves including the MK1 Golf offering but couldn't find much to suit so went with the T&Designs offering which have to say feels like a very well made product.



Not the best pic but can see that the valve is mounted between the bulkhead and the filter, the pipework is very short either side which in turn supports the valve nicely and no additional bracket is needed







In the end i just wedged the ductwork in the vent slot as is just the right size and a snug fit which was handy 











When i get round to it the heater control dial and fan speed control dials will be mounted on a plate in the center airvent but will probably just have them wedged in there like the heater control one pictured and do it at a later date once the cars running as sick of not driving it 







At this point now i really want to tie up all the wiring so can be confident that won't need to break back into the loom again or remove bits of the dash after refitting.



As i no longer need the MAF plug and carbon canister I removed these from this loom, but am waiting on tape and confirmation of some extra cores i may require to run before i seal it back up.







Am i right in thinking that this relay does the power for the ECU? Can't seem to track down where the plug goes? Am thinking of using this or the feed to the relay coil on the ignition set of contacts on the master power cut off.







That brings me to the next bit the master cut off.



I soldered a pair of wires to the resistor to earth the install when is shut off. All i need to do now is tap into the ignition feed or some kind of ECU feed as above then connect the other terminals to complete it.







Thats about as far as i've got at the moment, am hoping to complete the wiring and fit the motor over the next couple of weeks



Happy christmas to all...not long now


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Had a few hours on the car today. Following tufftys and prawns advice and my distinct lack of research into the subject I've decided to move the master battery cut off switch.

I had planned on mounting the heater controls in the centre airvent but have now decided to mount the cut off switch there and left a spot for a fire extinguisher pull.

Started off with the usual cardboard template, which was designed to sit in the slot



After looking deeper into how could mount and the size of the units mounting in there I went for a slight overlap on the top and bottom and will use a combination of some long self tappers and bolts with washers.

It wedges in quite tight between the left and right sides which helps hold it very firmly without any fixings which will help



Marked out and ready for holes to be drilled



All the bits mounted and did after this pic drill a pilot hole ready for the fire pull



Roughly what it should look like, will be painting it black once have bought some etch primer and paint.



I then made a start on getting the engine, clutch and gearbox together ready to drop in.

Was hard work getting the box on especially as have two clutch plates to fight with



That's all for now, am hoping to get another day out there in the next week to hopefully tidy up the rest of the loom and other stuff at the back of the bay to mount the motor


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Had a couple of little bits arrive which should help me get moving on the coolant side of things once the engines in



AN4 hose kit



Then very strangely a couple of evenings ago the Mrs gave me the go ahead to do car stuff indoors! She must want something in the near future?? Ummm? Excuse the very still Undecorated living room as am doing this room last as baby's will trash new stuff 



I started by linking all the common supply terminals on the new fuse block to be fitted at the rear. This will power the surge tank, WMI and the interior lights.



I did also extend the wiring on a spare relay ready to connect and run the pair of 044's



Bit of tape and heat shrink



I then started on wiring the WMI solenoid cables into the loom but got persuaded by F&F7, more cider and my old little buddy Slick the snake to call it a day and chill!!



Hoping once I get over last night I can maybe get a couple of hours out there today and hopefully some time tomorrow 

Happy new year all


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Got some car time here and there over the last couple days.

Now I had prepped some of the fuel wiring and extra fuse block it seemed like a good option to try and complete this area. 

May have been able to get a proper mount for the relay but the trusty cable ties seemed to have held it very firmly to the cross brace



For now I've used some sticky back cable tie mounts and will see how they go, usually they're useless and fall off to which I usually put a fixing in to hold them. 

If I redo them I'll put them on straight from the side I took the photo rather than slapped on blind from inside the car lol



The fuse box will power the fuel pumps, WMI and some sort of interior lighting circuit or two.

Only thing left to do in here is run the window squirter pipe, connect the power when ready and possibly make some mounts for a 5l container and mini tool kit in the spare space 



I then revisited the battery isolator to try and make off all the cables to the right length (if they're now long enough) luckily the main power cables are all within 150mm excess and all make the terminals.

I also traced the ecu power cable through from fuse 29 iirc to the other side of the bulkhead by the Pollen filter. I cut and soldered another length of cable to it, pulled it back to the centre console to create a loop to break into for the auxiliary terminal in the isolator.





After crimping on the suitable ring crimps on the cables I had to clearance the area around the isolator, this is due to the stiffness of the cables and the angle of the terminals



All terminated bar the feed



Sits quite nicely even without the faceplate



I finished up today tidying the main loom in the engine bay followed by refitting the ABS module and heatshields







Hoping to get the motor in tomorrow if my back improves as has crippled me hunched over in the car.

On a different subject...WEIGHT LOSS

Anyone got any advice on other things can do or buy to help reduce the weight?

I will definitely be getting polycarbonate Windows, was going to be before its running but think may be postponed to a later date due to money and time. Just want to put some miles on her now 

I've searched high and low for some fibre glass panels with no luck, although found loads of beautiful carbon fibre gear but is far to expensive for me at the moment.



Company I've found reckons you can knock 200kgs with their carbon bits which includes wings, doors, bonnet, boot, bumpers and even a dash.





I would like to replace the Bonnet ASAP to save hacking the current one for the locking catches.

The boot would have loved to replace when I fit the plastic rear window to save butchering the OEM

Doing both the above would leave me with decent original units to sell on which helps.

I have got a couple of ideas on how to shed 10-15kgs that may materialise but besides that in my head leaves me with the standard of removing under seal, drilling holes and possibly 2 piece discs

Anyone got any ideas or know of fibreglass bonnet or boot?

Cheers


----------



## 2fast4you2 (Feb 22, 2009)

Can you give us a hint on the firm that does those carbon fenders,bonnet,wings,boot


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

2fast4you2 said:


> Can you give us a hint on the firm that does those carbon fenders,bonnet,wings,boot


Yeah no problem they're on Facebook and have been trading under extreme body works in the past but are now in the process of starting another company called DRAG STORE

Here's the extreme Bodyworks one

https://www.facebook.com/extremebodywork/

For some reason the drag store one isn't working and is no pics on there now?

Let them know I pointed you in their direction


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Wish I had your fab skills and patience! Jelly :heart:

opcorn:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Gulfstream said:


> Wish I had your fab skills and patience! Jelly :heart:
> 
> opcorn:


Thanks Oistien I can only hope it performs as well as yours :beer:

On another note

Had some bits show up today, was like a late Christmas opening up the boxes 

Got some more AN fittings and hose for the coolant system



Have now got to work out how I'm going to install this beaut



It's the same system as prawn has and to be honest will probably install it in a very similar manor.

I will be putting two nozzles in opposite corners in the engine bay, 1 in the centre under the dash in the cab and the last nozzle in the fuel area to hopefully cover any issues in there.
It comes with a 6ft and a 12ft pull cable, the 6ft won't reach where I want to install the unit so i ordered another 12ft.
I will then have one 12ft for the internal fire pull, one 12ft for the external fire pull and will use the remaining 6ft cable as the external battery cut off.

Hoping to get a fair amount of time out there next week to start installing it. Will be out there Monday before my nightshift for a few hours and wednesday after nights as they're the Mrs scheduled work days and kids are at nursery


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Got a little more done on the car.

When I had previously removed the steering rack one of the track rod end nuts was seized, resulting in me having to cut it off.
As was going to have to replace one track rod end I thought I'd do the pair and boots.

Both rod ends were extremely stubborn! The first one I rounded the two flats trying to budge it. I had tried spraying it with release spray but thought that by cutting the top off I could really give it a chance to get in there.

End result was a couple of days soaking, lots of heat and a rather large pair of stilsons



There was a bit of damage on the thread which was in the area where the flats were, I suspect when rounded these of it crushed it slightly and damaged the threads.
None the less about 20mins with a thread file brought it back to a usable condition



The other side was stubborn but not as bad. I cut the stud off this one and just used a big adjustable so to try not risk crushing the unit.



Completed unit with two new boots and rod ends



I fitted to steering rack and anti roll bar to the subframe and got this mounted, sorry no pics though.

Now the engine, gearbox and rack were all in place where they should be I started looking at the gear shift cable locations before it gets to cluttered around there.

First off I installed the shifter arms onto the box but one off them was far to tight! I wasn't happy with how tight it was, weather the plastic bush had some how gained a little burr on it or something who knows. Anyhows a quick session with a 10mm reamer sorted that out.



Now onto the cables.

There was a hole in the bulkhead from the OEM heater, I drilled another similar size hole below it to open it up and join the two.

I then fabricated a blanking plate with two holes in to block the hole and hold the cables in place. I cut the plate in half as the cables can't be dismantled and then run the drill though again to make sure that the holes were still the correct size and shape.









I had previously bought some solid shifter bushings so naturally now was a favourable time to swap them out



Now all fitted on the car. The cables do a bit of an S shape each side but it operates nice and smooth and the cables are now resting away from the wastegate exhaust



TBC


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Had some resistors show up that i had been waiting for and the Mrs gave the go ahead to do some more car related tasks indoors 



The switch has 3 positions on it to which had planned to have 3 speeds in equal divisions. Heres a quick test before i fixed it all in place.



As was happy with that I mounted the panel in place. I’m not totally happy with how securely mounted it is as would be happier if was completely solid, this is something will be revisiting with some kind of bolt in manor



Next up i thought i’d start on the fire extinguisher system. I chose to mount it behind the passanger seat as think it would provide decent access for myself to the locking pin and also hopefully act as ballast to counter act my lard arse on the other side 

First of all the system Tee’s into two paths one destined for the cabin nozzles and the other for the engine bay nozzles.



The cabin ones i’ll be having one placed under the dash pointed at the driver lower region and the other has been mounted in the fuel tank area.





The other feed for the engine bay i have run down the passenger side of the car with the power cable and loom to which have then brought it up and threaded it through into the scuttle panel with a stuffing gland ready for the next Tee. Was a bit of a numpty here as completely over looked the fact that there was a proper push fit bulkhead fitting in the kit lol



Once in the engine bay i had enough pipe to do the nozzle but the brake fluid reservoir but this is were i run out. I’ve ordered and additional 3m which should allow me to finish the job 



Thats about it for now, I’m hoping to get some time on the car after my nightshift on Wednesday but will have to wait and see


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Awesome progress and updates as usual, keep them coming! Nice touch on the shifter cables firewall block, I need to do that to mine as well. :thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Awesome progress and updates as usual, keep them coming! Nice touch on the shifter cables firewall block, I need to do that to mine as well. :thumbup::thumbup:


Thanks Max, things are really progressing at the mo due to time of year and private work being non existent.

The shifter cables were previously cable tied to the power steering pipe to pull them away from the exhaust so relocating the shifter higher and cable position went hand in hand really.

Would like to see updates on yours, were you put them? On FB


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Had a fair few hours out there Wednesday but feel I was far from being on form! Got home from work at 8 and set my alarms for consecutive 5 min intervals from 9:30 so could gain some time on the car. None the less after 45mins of alarms and snoozing the alarms I got up and started on the car.

I started with mounting the external pull actuators for the electrical cut off and fire extinguisher. I went for same sort of position as Prawn utilising two holes that were already there and the right size.

It's quite flimsy there so needs some support to which a bit of ally bar would do the job nicely



Mounted and used a stuffing gland to go through the bulkhead.



Once the pull cables were run and tied in I cut the sheath to length using an angle grinder and a 1mm cutting disc. Had to be extra careful not to nick the actual cable.



I rest the grinder in a secure position and held the cable with both hands rotating it on the cutting disk, this was the result 



Installed and excess cable chopped off, I wrapped it in tape before cutting to try and prevent it from fraying



I'm now waiting on more 3m of piping, p clips and some ally for brackets to finish the fire extinguisher install so went back over to the suspension and subframe install.

When moving it all about I noticed the wishbone bushes weren't in a brilliant way and had splits in them



I contacted power flex who were very helpful and straight away offered to send another set FOC which arrived a day later.



I removed the bushes in prep for the new ones. Whilst they were in bits it would seem silly to not paint them. I quickly rubbed them down with the grinder and wire wheel to get the main bulk of the rust and loose debris off.

Before and after



Painted with hammerite



Whilst installing the pull cables I noticed I had missed some sound deadening, think I may have removed another kilo or so from the car. Every little helps hey 



After scrapping



After a quick wipe with tar remover. Not to fussed about this bit as isn't seen once the scuttle is on



TBC


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Continuation of Wednesdays and Thursdays work



Pile of sound deadening removed from under the scuttle panel, it’s surprising how much it weighs in your hand for what it is.







I then went onto fitting the power steering lines, I had made a big mistake not fitting the cooling loop one with the engine out as had to take the dogbone mount and gearbox side mount back off to get it in which was a complete arse.



Sorry forgot pics of this entire bit



Once they were in I went to connect the clutch hydraulic line. This for some reason wouldn’t go on!



I started by measuring the release bearing inlet connector dimensions to which was identical to my old one?? This led me onto believing that because the connector was slightly fouling on the gear casing it was clear wasn’t going on 100% square so carefully used the grinder to give some extra clearance to put it on straight.







Still not luck!!!



I had originally though the o-rings looked a different size on the units but put it down to the old one being squashed and profile changing over time as o-rings do, but when removed I put a vernier on them as could clearly see side by side are different!







The old one measured 2mm dia where as the new one was 2.5mm ummm. The grooves in the connector are the same dimensions and profile that the rings sit in so put the old smaller o-ring on the new unit to find that it works fine!



Pretty certain someone has put the wrong o-ring on!



I’ve made a start on the coolant system and how that’s going to be plumbed







Double checked my markings before attacking it with a hole saw











Will have more on the coolant system next time as have dropped some bits off to be welded up by our teams Pro-Race Engineering’s sponsors AD Fabrication Ltd.



http://ad-fabrication-essex.co.uk/



Hoping to collect some of these bits tomorrow or Tuesday



Next up I moved onto the inlet manifold. I had made the decision to flip it over as the pipe work route was shorter, more direct and suited my engine bay better. This required repositioning my direct port methanol block and capping off the old holes.











Installed on the car J







Then later on that day I thought I’d try fitting the front cross member to look at clearance for something else, to which whilst doing I found something that will quite possibly mean I’ll have to revert my inlet manifold to its previous location.







Think it will stop the bonnet shutting











Will hopefully test fit the bonnet next time I’m out there to confirm my fears.

That’s all for now.


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Got a few hours here and there on the car over the last week or so.

First off after realising how high my inlet manifold sits I thought I best check the clearance to the bonnet.

It's very tight as can only just about get a finger between the two.





I'm going to be cutting part of the inner skin away on the bonnet, especially in the throttle body area to give a little extra clearance. If I still have issues I have a few options including dropping the motor slightly (don't want to do this) or could remove my phenolic gasket spacer. But will wait and see how it goes.

Car looks rather strange with the bonnet on 



Some hose had arrived over the week to allow me to continue with the fire extinguisher install 

First off I mounted the other in cabin nozzle, I was going to position it so was central trying to get both passanger and driver, but I changed my mind being a selfish person I directed it all at me and under the dash. In fairness whenever the pins pulled on the system it will most likely be just me in it and I'll be on track.

I used p clips to hold it in place down the side of the tunnel



The under bonnet nozzles were next on the menu.

I made some brackets for these and routed the pipework accordingly securing it with p clips and using grommits were possible







This nozzle I pointed a bit off diagonal but I wanted it to be able to reach the brake lines and abs module should something spring a leak over there



I've now pretty much made my mind up on how I want the bay laid out. This meant I could start designing my breather tank ready for AD Fabrication to make up for me 

I applied the prototype standard of cardboard aided design. I did originally make it far to big, to the point it was going to interfere with the fuel rail inlet pipe and was well over the specified 2L volume required, to reduce the volume I cut a section from the middle out.





I also produced a little sketch to help explain the design in my head.



To mount the tank where I want it I removed the brackets etc that were no longer required.



Only problem is I got a bit carried away with the grinder and removed all other studs etc that are no longer required 



Then continued on my trigger happy style on the passanger side lol



I was just going to touch up with a bit of black paint to protect the metal but decided that would look diabolical! So I decided to just put a couple of coats of hammerite on to perk it up.





It's not to be a smoothed show car by any means as I've not got it in me to even clean the car myself so will never be going that route! I just like the idea of it being clear and nothing unnecessary present, as and when I want to fix stuff now I'll weld or make my own fixings and just touch back up with hammerite.

When down AD fab they pressed my bushes in for me as I no longer have the luxury of using work equipment and workshops to do so now being a clean environment wearing white lab coats and hair nets in pharmaceutical.



Am hopefully getting a load of bits back soon from AD fab to allow me to start progressing and pushing on a bit more again.

That's all for now


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

On another note got some bits back from AD fabrications 







Converted the rad to AN fittings









Alloy piping and silicon to make up the boost pipework.


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

After AD Fab had welded together my mass of bits it meant was time to fit to the car and start working out hoe this lot was all going to fit.



First off i started sorting out the wastegate lines. These are in 4AN size and should help provide a continuous loop for the coolant when the stat and heater matrix valve are shut.















I was quite lucky that one of the old bulkhead lines fitted straight on but i had to remake the other as was to short to allow for engine movement.



When i went to fit the front cross member and fans i found that the oil filter was very close/touching the conduit for one of the rad fans. As i'm running the OEM oil cooler/heater and a thermostatic sandwich alongside a large oil filter it brings it to close to the rad. To give some extra clearance i ground a recess in the fan support for the conduit to sit in







This then lead me onto the main rad lines which were done in 16AN



As you can see in the first pic the filter sits very close to the cross member















I could of completed the coolant lines and most of the fuel lines but some of the AN 90 degree -6 fittings i ordered were sub standard quality, this was due to the threads being incorrectly cut rendering them useless without the correct tap.



With that in mind i started to work out my boost pipework routing.



The silicon 90 reducer coming straight off of the turbo fouled on the strut brace and wasn't happy with its position so a little tickle with the grinder and file on the comp cover just gave me a little extra to clock the comp cover round a little further







Boost pipework will run a little something like this







Hoping to crack on with the pipework soon and should be shipping my new intercooler over from the other side of the pond shortly.


----------



## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Looking good, can't wait to see this thing fire up. What size piping are you using 2.5 or 3 inch


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Yeah me too.....I can't wait although am already nervous lol

I'm currently going to run 3' all the way round, I did previously run 63mm hot and 70mm coldside with no issues but have increased it again this time


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Got some time on the car here and there over the last couple of days 

I made a start on the cam cover which was donated by the AGN lump I picked up

Started off by giving it a quick clean with a wire wheel and brake cleaner



Cut off the filler to be relocated in the middle and a lot lower to the cover.





This is roughly what will be like when finished



Put a couple of plates internally to stop oil on exhaust side flicking up the breathers



All taped in place to go to AD Fab for welding 



Next up went onto the power steering pump. After a clean up with the wire wheel and a touch of paint it looked a lot better.



I bought some exhaust clamps and used some old silicon hose to pad out and hopefully reduce noise



Made a very crude bracket to hold it with the exhaust clamps.



All mounted in the back of the car. Fits in the space quite nicely.



Had an old friend pop round from wickham engineering to do the high pressure line to the rack but he had run out of ferrules on his van so will drop that back over the next few days. If you need any lines etc made up give wickham engineering a shout as helpful guys and can do 99% of stuff



Power steering is now waiting on the hose from wickham and the modified low pressure hardline to come back from ad fab to continue.

Next up I went onto mounting the oil cooler. Annoyingly most of the oil coolers I could find are all just over 300mm long which made mounting a tad more difficult. To give extra room and to allow for my boost pipework I cut the chassis back a touch.





AN10 lines used to connect it to the sandwich plate.



I will be making a mount up for the bottom once I know how the inner arch and bumper sit.

Pretty similar set up for the passanger side for the power steering rad.

I've decided to put a rad on the power steering system as it usually has the cooling loop that runs round to the pump and back as well as the zig zag arrangement in front of the gear box. It's also known for people to have boiled fluid in extreme situations.





The oil cooler will be linked to the modified low pressure hard line and then to return back to the pump at the rear.

As advised I've now made up a bracket to support the header tank.





Think that's about it for now. Here's a couple of pics of how it currently stands


----------



## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Awesome work man . Congrats


----------



## BH17DNB (Feb 21, 2011)

Great as always!
Keep it up.


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Thanks guys, can definitely see that light at the end of the tunnel now


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

I got a couple of hours outside before preparing for my monday night shift

Went back to the boost pipework. I started by looking at where to take the boost reference for the N75, i do prefer it off of the comp cover tucked away a bit.

Cleaned the casting up so was flat to start with as had a raise symbol where i wanted to mount it.



Drilled and tapped a hole ready for a 90 degree fitting had bought, i stuffed the comp housing to catch filings etc as well as using the hoover as i drilled into it.



Now i continued on the hotside piping path, originally i'd planned to run the pipework parallel to the side of the engine but decided it would look to wierd and involve to many unnecessary bends so went with the more direct approach

Parallel with 45's



Direct









That's as far as i can get really with the hot side until I get the cooler shipped over in the next few weeks to work out where the next 90 will go.

I still had some more time before work and now my silicon reducer had arrived i started on the cold side.



Its quite tight between the head light and chassis/ oil cooler so have had to start mitering the pipework joins to try and get it through there.



Looking up from underneath gives you a slightly better view





That's as far as have got for now and probably not able to do to much more until have the cooler to work out the overall positions.

On another note Si dropped in for a chat with some car porn to show off for his mk1 golf and a customers car.



+1mm valves  His mk1 will be insane, still can't get over the fact he will be aiming for more power than me in a car potentially weighing nearly half a normal S3


----------



## daunicorn (Apr 20, 2005)

Cant wait to see teh valve cover done.


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

daunicorn said:


> Cant wait to see teh valve cover done.


Thanks i'm sure AD Fab will do a lovely job of it.

Got a couple of hours outside after my night shift wednesday.

Managed to finish off all the fuel lines



I'm a bit concerned that the hose will rub on the fuel rail making it not look so pretty so will fix it in place some how.



As can see in the picture also refitted my modified header tank with the support bracket.

Modified PS pipe



I did lots of other boring non picture justifying stuff like fitting the wishbones, driveshafts, ARB links etc.

Hoping to get back on it monday but am now going to be held up by my intercooler, ecu and a few other bits that are still sitting over in the USA, so not sure how well will progress apart from tieing up loose ends.


----------



## TMakrop (Sep 18, 2015)

I wish there were more build threads like this, instead of "my turn signals stopped working" 😒 love it!!


----------



## 1980saltlife (Jun 18, 2015)

Bad ass


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Thanks Guys :beer:


Got a few hours here and there on the car over the last week or so. Managed to get the loom all pretty much sorted and in place in the engine bay as well as most of the WMI system.

First up i looked where I could mount the solenoid to be as close as possible to the manifold and outlets. I made a little ally it off





Mounted to the top of the oil filter housing



Now that the throttle body is on the other side i've got to extend the wires to make the extra distance, they had already been extended marginally in the past for the IE inlet manifold but just chopped this out rather than having to many joins.



Apart from the MAP sensor cable hanging in the middle and some tidying/changing of the coilpack loom its all in and complete.





That's it for now and i expect a little while as things are getting busier and extra work is starting to come back, but I'm probably going to book some time off the permanent job to crack on some more.

On a different note the team has now got another sponsor for this coming season. Thanks to Opie Oils, will be a great help


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Got a few hours here and there on the car 

I'm really starting to run out of things to really sink my teeth into until I send my intercooler and ECU over, I'm hoping to have the intercooler by the end of next week.

None the less i made a bit more progress on odd jobs as such.

I went to fit the window wiper motor to try and complete the scuttle panel area but very quickly hit an issue



Once in the motor would only rotate this far as failing on some scaffold pole that someone had put in the way



A bit of creativity with the grinder soon solved that issue 





My friend from Wickham swung by and dropped this off the other day.



I threaded it all through roughly where i wanted it and started by fixing it at the rack to then pull the slack back to the fuel cell area.



I'm currently waiting on some p-clips to fix it to the underside of the car as didn't have the correct ones knocking about. I'm also currently waiting on my 8AN hose to complete the link between rack-cooler and cooler-pump.



Next up i made some headwind on the dash, I'd originally planned on waiting till i had the ECU to have access to run cables etc through the bulkhead but needs must decided to press on.

Sorry didn't actually get to many pics during the many adjustments and cuts i made to the panels but will get the general gist

I had to cut away all the left hand hinged area so an addition of a little hinge from the local DIY store was welcomed to keep it together





Next up was driver side, i made adjustments to the WMI loom and added a relay for the solenoid but sorry forgot to take pics



More adjustments to the side support as i moved the fuse box slightly



Clocks and few other little bits followed



Now was time to play with my steering wheel that has sat in the cupboard for what seems like eternity

I had an adaptor boss as well as a quick release boss to fix to it, I'm quite set on having a quick release for ease of access and quite frankly like it as a security feature.



Next i come across an issue with the horn contacts foul on the quick release adapter, the adapter has no recess for these contacts.







Options are to get over this at the moment are
1. New snap off boss
2. No snap off boss
3. Spacer between snap off boss and wheel
4. No horn on steering wheel

Out of them options the spacer seems like the easiest and retains the central horn but as i found when testing with the seat in it just felt a bit to close to me for my liking even with the column retracted fully.





Sadly enough I did really enjoy sitting in my car pretending to be a racing driver with the seat and steering wheel bolted on


----------



## FTMFW (Jan 1, 2008)

StaceyS3 said:


> Sadly enough I did really enjoy sitting in my car pretending to be a racing driver with the seat and steering wheel bolted on


I did that last weekend with my project as well. I haven't driven my car in over 3 years for this build. Last weekend I moved it to another shop to have some software issues diagnosed. While I drove it off the trailer and around the shop's property I wanted to mash on the gas pedal so, so badly. I just wanna hear some sweet sweet turbo sounds!!


----------



## CorrieG60 (Jan 18, 2004)

Stacey,

I might have missed it, but of from what type of car does that power steering pump come from??
And how will you be wiring it(is it continuous, or will it be variable(like the Vauxhall Astra G pump)?


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

FTMFW said:


> I did that last weekend with my project as well. I haven't driven my car in over 3 years for this build. Last weekend I moved it to another shop to have some software issues diagnosed. While I drove it off the trailer and around the shop's property I wanted to mash on the gas pedal so, so badly. I just wanna hear some sweet sweet turbo sounds!!


Yeah it is hard to contain yourself, I had to be sensible with mine but at last i have heard it running again 

Its Alive!!

After doing some more work here and there I got to a position where I could potentially start and run the motor.

Si popped round as always better having two sets of ears in these crucial moments.

First video is literally just after it fired with temps etc still low

https://youtu.be/DGvJNqQNxGU

This one was once was fully up to temp and revs had dropped a touch

https://youtu.be/14P09TVp8p8

Am quite chuffed as had feared of some wiring glitches/issues where had ripped out so much, plus this was on an old unadjusted map with the 3660 catcams and the GTX3071.

I dropped a load more bits off down to AD fabs yesterday to be welded so hopefully should be on the road in the next 2 weeks.


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

CorrieG60 said:


> Stacey,
> 
> I might have missed it, but of from what type of car does that power steering pump come from??
> And how will you be wiring it(is it continuous, or will it be variable(like the Vauxhall Astra G pump)?


Hi Corrie

The pump is from a citroen saxo and is a very primitive setup with only two cores to the pump with no PCB or controller, it will run continuous via a relay and an override cut of switch.


----------



## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Nice to hear the engine run, good job Stacey


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

One-Eight GTI said:


> Nice to hear the engine run, good job Stacey


Thanks. I'm really itching to get out and drive it again now. Hoping if everything else comes together then should be within the next couple of weeks :beer:


----------



## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Will be fun to see the dyno sheet from this one. Also hope to see you at the ring this summer! :beer:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Been slacking on here really!! Some time laid up on the sofa with a bad back seems like an obvious time to fill in a tad.

Big gap in progress updates.....Quite a few changes here and there and over 3000 miles have been put on the car now with well over 2500 with N75 connected.

None the less some more interesting stuff....Pics and videos 

TIP, boost pipe and Simons screamer for the mk1



Driveshaft that gave up after just over 1000 miles on first launch 



Few pics of under the bonnet







Nice solid gear shifter linkage and slider to compliment steel shift forks



Inside the car







Outside the car (cars good side lol)





Nice shot of mine and Simons Golf MK1 at Bug Jam 30 at Santa Pod raceway this weekend



More to come


----------



## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Videos 
Awesome car man


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Bug Jam at Santa Pod, probably one of the biggest if not biggest VW/VAG event in the UK.



First time the car has hit the strip apart from some runs at Bruntingthorpe around 5 years ago, it performed better than i had hoped with it looking promising of a 10.xx if i can get some practice and make some adjustments.

The friday i ran 4 times to which all were very consistant within 0.2 sec of each other, this was with launch control at 5000rpm on the lowest map with boost up on full.

I have 3 maps on my car all with vairiable boost via a pot, 1 map for petrol, 1 for petrol and WMI and last 1 for higher octane fuel.

Time slips for this day as follows









Feeling very pleased with Fridays results I turned the launch control up 500rpm, changed the fuel and turned it to Map 1 for the higher octane map feeling keen to see more out of it and chase closer to the distant 10.xx second run.

First result was absolutely lit up the tyres off the line and missed 2nd, whether this was driver error or more to the fact that revs were to high from bouncing on the hard cut and syncros didn't want to shift that high who knows but this is the relevant timeslip.



Next run i thought i'd try plugging in my TMAP controller to run 4wd instantly to aid grip rather than my ECU programmed haldex lock of 7 psi.

Result was even worse, the car wheel hopped and bounced so hard it bounced out of first gear about 10m from the line.The time really reflects this in comparison to others



I went over some of the logs and its not suprising i had absolutely lit up the tyres!! I had built 1.88bar before launching on the first run on saturday 



That was all the run what you brung out of the way, first round of qualifiers coming up for VWPro. I took some revs out of the launch to try and aid the start but after everyone saying about the extra grip as track would be prepped and freshly glued i put it straight back on hoping that with the extra grip the car would hook with the power in it still.

Well it did spin again and was prepared for it, just let of a little to regain traction, flatshifted to second, all was going well when then flatshifted to 3rd and well there was nothing there, tried again with lots off grinding and noises as a result.  Went into 4th and slowly cruised to the end of the strip.

Turns out i lost 3rd and 5th with 4th having to be persuaded to go in gear. The car made it home from pod but made some nice noises in the lower gears and when ever put any load through it.

It has steel shift forks so not quite sure what i've done unless i've bent the steel ones? Will have it apart once my back heals.

Next to come is some videos....


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

To the videos.... I'm trying to collect more up from friends as only got 2 on the go pro and nothing of saturday (one of which car side stepped and lots of me hitting the hardcut lol)





















Will try and see if i can get my friends to email some more over especially of the fails


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

BR_337 said:


> Videos
> Awesome car man


Thanks Dude taken long enough :laugh:


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Awesome car, just have to get the bugs out. :beer:


----------



## mainstayinc (Oct 4, 2006)

StaceyS3 said:


> Turns out i lost 3rd and 5th with 4th having to be persuaded to go in gear. The car made it home from pod but made some nice noises in the lower gears and when ever put any load through it.
> 
> *It has steel shift forks so not quite sure what i've done unless i've bent the steel ones? Will have it apart once my back heals*.
> 
> Next to come is some videos....


I'm very interested to know what happened to your transmission. Please post when you get a chance.


----------



## Gary_808 (Jan 2, 2014)

Out of interest, 

You still on the me7 or got standalone in it now?


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Update on the gearbox.....

Had some friends come round and helped remove the box for me whilst i rested my back.

Results are quite shocking, I think I need to be a bit less eager when changing gear lol

The brass sliders had worn through the sides and broken up causing the loss of 3rd and crunching of 4th gear but the reason this had happened was due to the fork being bent. The fork being bent had caused the brass sliders to wear on oposite corners where it was now being twisted at an angle in the syncro ring groove











These next photos are were you can see that the fork is bent, by eye and up to a square







The center locating part has also been bent and suffered wear to the plastic cover



The 5-6th fork is showing a little bit of wear but nothing durastic and all appears straight and in good condition







Following this I've now rebuilt it with another steel fork including the brass sliders, but have swapped out some of the gearbox out with another broken one i had as the syncros were in better condition on this one.

A friend as a solution has strongly suggested a SQS shifter to stop me being able to break the forks on these boxes


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

20v master said:


> Awesome car, just have to get the bugs out. :beer:


Thanks dude, its getting there, want to redo the bottom end as not happy with that. But if all goes to plan new block pistons and girdel then i'll be chuffed



mainstayinc said:


> I'm very interested to know what happened to your transmission. Please post when you get a chance.


All there above my friend 



Gary_808 said:


> Out of interest,
> 
> You still on the me7 or got standalone in it now?


I'm now on Emerald K6+ Standalone management, we sell this ECU on our webstore apart from the K6+ firmware is still new and in testing stages before Emerald will be releasing to the public

http://www.prorace-engineering.com/Emerald-K6-ECU-EMK6ECU.htm


----------



## mainstayinc (Oct 4, 2006)

</script>tor_001_editor" name="message" rows="8" cols="60" tabindex="1">


StaceyS3 said:


> Update on the gearbox.....
> 
> Had some friends come round and helped remove the box for me whilst i rested my back.
> 
> ...


Good thing it was just a bent shift fork and a few syncros. Your standalone engine management *should* have a flatshift feature. That would make shifting more effortless as it helps to synchronize engine and transmission.


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Are you not using a no lift to shift ignition cut? Yikes on those forks, take it easy on the shifts! :laugh:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

mainstayinc said:


> </script>tor_001_editor" name="message" rows="8" cols="60" tabindex="1">
> 
> Good thing it was just a bent shift fork and a few syncros. Your standalone engine management *should* have a flatshift feature. That would make shifting more effortless as it helps to synchronize engine and transmission.





20v master said:


> Are you not using a no lift to shift ignition cut? Yikes on those forks, take it easy on the shifts! :laugh:



Car is running flatshift with ingition retard which is why see the black puff out the back on gear changes, the following update shows a log which shows it all a bit clearer. The car actually makes more boost between gear changes than what i run in gear lol


Update...

Car made it to Ultimate street car at Santa Pod for Friday morning for an early set up and some run what you brung activity to see if can improve on my PB before the FWD Drag series that was entered in for the Saturday and Sunday.

We got there and got setup including some BBQ'd breakfast 



Then once unloaded the car and made some adjustments we went down for first runs. I was one of the first on track to which first run went superbly and netted my new PB!! I had beaten my previous best time by nearly 0.5s and run 5mph higher ET 



This is the log from the PB run, i was being carefull not flatshifting 1st-2nd which may net me more next time but you can see its doing its stuff between gear changes.



The following run the launch control would only go to 3k for some reason to which resulted in bogging down and netting a high 11. Following this i tested the car at standstill and launch control was all working again.

Went for another run and car did the same again on the line only going to 3k before retarding ignition for boost build, i then let off the throttle and clutch then back on to which then worked and went round to 5k as supposed to, this netted me a mid 11 as suspect car was getting a bit hot from 3 runs in a row whilst track was quiet.

So back to camp to investigate what was occurring? All the inputs that i could think of that could effect it appeared to working fine, I checked the clutch, throttle and speed inputs to which feed back was perfect.
Looking back over the logs you can see if you look very carefully that on the first run pictured above that the revs initially hesitate at 3k momentarily. This is wierd as flatshift and launch control worked absolutly fine two weeks prior at bugjam on the same map.

Looking through settings the flatshift min threshold was set at 3k which now explains where the 3k was coming from. We changed this to 5.5k above the launch control setting and all worked fine, strange as no changes had been made to the map but just started to do it.

None the less I went round for my last run. Upon launch the car just span, same through 2nd and 3rd with also some in 4th which netted a 13s run. I suspected had broken the prop doughnut or something simular, fearing this pulled over as soon as was off the strip to inspect and could see nothing wrong as everything was in place and sitting where it should be.

I drove the car slowly back to the pits to which had started to hear some noise's, then when I went to stop had to pump the brakes to get any bite, at this point i had a good idea what had happened.....my thoughts were soon confirmed

Snapped shaft!! But hadn't anticipated the other one to be twisted as well!!





The drivers side i suspect had deformed or started to break up in the hub as well putting extra load on the bolt as there was no way at all that the bolt was coming out. We tried impact guns, broke breaker bars and tried heating it but would not budge.

The result ended up being the car sat in the air until shafts and hub were picked up from a breaker sat afternoon. The weekend just contained lots of drinking and eating from here on.





Managed to get the car all fixed and able to drive home but it is very clear that i will be needing a trailer ASAP as can't compete with the security that will make it home without one.

The lads did manage to get a couple of rolling shots there and back 





Next event thats planned is VW Action in september, i'm hoping by then will have sorted an issue with my meth solenoid and can start running direct port meth again, that and maybe more practice may net me that 10s run before the years out.


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Axles suck. With the age of these cars/parts, things aren't as strong as they "should" be. :beer:


----------



## mainstayinc (Oct 4, 2006)

StaceyS3 said:


> Next event thats planned is VW Action in september, i'm hoping by then will have sorted an issue with my meth solenoid and can start running direct port meth again, that and maybe more practice may net me that 10s run before the years out.


10s run is definitely within reach with your setup. BTW did you ever get your car weighed? I know that you mentioned some weight-loss items including polycarbonate windows and fiberglass panels.


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

20v master said:


> Axles suck. With the age of these cars/parts, things aren't as strong as they "should" be. :beer:


Yeah not as strong as i had hoped! I it continues may have to look at a stronger solution



mainstayinc said:


> 10s run is definitely within reach with your setup. BTW did you ever get your car weighed? I know that you mentioned some weight-loss items including polycarbonate windows and fiberglass panels.


Its been weighed twice, once @ 1280kg and again @ 1300kg, both are without driver and both were around 1/4 tank of juice give or take 5L.

Car still has full glass and all original panels as quite simply run out of money


----------



## mainstayinc (Oct 4, 2006)

StaceyS3 said:


> Yeah not as strong as i had hoped! I it continues may have to look at a stronger solution
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That's still well below what an VW R32 or Audi TT Quattro weighs at about 1500kg. I've been eyeing up the Audi S3 (8L) for quite some time but, unfortunately, we cannot get them here.:what:


----------



## Gary_808 (Jan 2, 2014)

mainstayinc said:


> That's still well below what an VW R32 or Audi TT Quattro weighs at about 1500kg. I've been eyeing up the Audi S3 (8L) for quite some time but, unfortunately, we cannot get them here.:what:


His s3 is very stripped... I struggle to lift one standard seat tbh. 

The r32/tt/s3 are all much the same weight spec pending, but with the tt having a shorter wheel base and no real back seat area you'd expect it to be lighter.


Hopefully I should be at vwaction, work pending, I'll pop over, 

I'm interested in the emerald as I've got a few different plug and play ecu's to choose from, and two options are massively supported with in 50miles of my house!


----------



## mainstayinc (Oct 4, 2006)

Gary_808 said:


> His s3 is very stripped... I struggle to lift one standard seat tbh.
> 
> *The r32/tt/s3 are all much the same weight spec pending, but with the tt having a shorter wheel base and no real back seat area you'd expect it to be lighter*.
> 
> ...


That's true. You would expect the Audi TT to be lighter. The 2002 Audi TT 225 Quattro Roadster I bought as a parts car weighs in at 1575kg (or 3473 lbs. avdp). That's almost as much as my wife's 2004 A4 (B6) Avant quattro at 1595kb (3516 lbs. avdp). Maybe we got the American *fat pig* version of the Audi TT Roadster (LOL). Not sure. 

I haven't heard much about the Emerald standalone unit outside of what StaceyS3 posted here. I plan on using the plug-and-play version Vipec i88 standalone engine management same as Integrated Engineering. It's probably best to "stay local" in your case.

EDIT: Link to an Austrian-designed Porsche that was suppose to appeal to the American market but never became a commercial success like the Audi TT 225 quattro (LOL).


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Gary_808 said:


> His s3 is very stripped... I struggle to lift one standard seat tbh.
> 
> The r32/tt/s3 are all much the same weight spec pending, but with the tt having a shorter wheel base and no real back seat area you'd expect it to be lighter.
> 
> ...


I have to admit the car is very stripped but i have also retained a full dash and other creature comforts like electric windows. I know the platform is the same but i dow believe that there's a few differences between the cars structurally above the base platform. I've seen quite a few pictures of mk4's stripped out when i've been searching doing research that seem to have a slightly different make up to the inside of the body panels especially the doors.

By all means if your at action swing by for a beer and say hello :beer:

ECU wise i'm obviously a bit bias but can't praise the Emerald enough especially with the support they offer, what car have you got? Theres a few more features in the pipeline that's not currently listed that could interest you if your Haldex based.

On another note i got a video of my PB run from a friend, its not the best video in the world as suspect he could do with some lessons on how to use a camera properly lol






Didn't get any more decent videos but am constantly trying to draw them out of my friends, i swear one of them must have got something pretty good


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

After a bit of fiddling i managed to retrieve a corrupt video from my SJCam that was in the car.






This was of my PB run of 11.02, watching the video i can still gain some time back from 1st - 2nd change would may tip me over the magic threshold


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Wow, I'm impressed that you bent the fork that much, I thought the whole point of the upgraded ones were that they were indestructible...


----------



## mainstayinc (Oct 4, 2006)

StaceyS3 said:


> After a bit of fiddling i managed to retrieve a corrupt video from my SJCam that was in the car.
> 
> This was of my PB run of 11.02, watching the video i can still gain some time back from 1st - 2nd change would may tip me over the magic threshold


It looks like you don't have any wheel spin in 1st and 2nd gear. Are you using boost-by-gear or are you feathering throttle to gain traction?


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

mainstayinc said:


> It looks like you don't have any wheel spin in 1st and 2nd gear. Are you using boost-by-gear or are you feathering throttle to gain traction?


Full boost in every gear but think that it doesn't seem to produce the same amount of torque without as much load against it, although boost is near on identicle through all gears it wheel spins more on the road in 3rd at about 70/80mph than it does in 1st and 2nd.

Yoko AD08 tyres are probably helping alongside a peloquin front LSD and HPA TMAP for traction?

Here's another video of that weekend which also shows the launch issue going to 3k then 5k, also had to much boost off of the line resulting in wheel spin






This the 3rd run in a row to which had a misfire up top in 4th, i think could be with the motor getting to hot? It also pulled to the wall in 4th.


----------



## mainstayinc (Oct 4, 2006)

StaceyS3 said:


> Full boost in every gear but think that it doesn't seem to produce the same amount of torque without as much load against it, although boost is near on identicle through all gears it wheel spins more on the road in 3rd at about 70/80mph than it does in 1st and 2nd.
> 
> *Yoko AD08 tyres are probably helping alongside a peloquin front LSD and HPA TMAP for traction?*


Haldex + LSD + HPA TMAP control unit + Yoki AD08 = Traction/win.



StaceyS3 said:


> Here's another video of that weekend which also shows the launch issue going to 3k then 5k, also had to much boost off of the line resulting in wheel spin
> 
> This the 3rd run in a row to which had a misfire up top in 4th, *i think could be with the motor getting to hot?* It also pulled to the wall in 4th.


Either that or a number of different issues. Based on my limited experience, misfires can be somewhat hard to troubleshoot.


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Right guys..... following recent events i will be picking up a new box tomorrow and fitting m,y upgrades to it.

The place near me that i will be going to collect from has 3 boxes and want to make sure i get the best suited option. Is there any more differences between the boxes as two i had here that had different codes apeared to have the numbers of teeth on the gears that checked.

The codes they have available which they say all came from TT's are FHB, FMT and DXW. I ideally want the longest ratio set out of these but was wondering if there was any other differences or rumoured to be stronger boxes?

My old box.....Rest In Pieces due to stripping 4th gear mid acceleration around 5k 













Considering other strengthening mods like Cryo treated gears if not to dear and people see it as a worthy thing to do?


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

DXW is the 5 speed box 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> DXW is the 5 speed box
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Must be a listing error I reckon then, they put DXW in the title and description.


----------



## mainstayinc (Oct 4, 2006)

StaceyS3 said:


> Right guys..... following recent events i will be picking up a new box tomorrow and fitting m,y upgrades to it.
> 
> The place near me that i will be going to collect from has 3 boxes and want to make sure i get the best suited option. Is there any more differences between the boxes as two i had here that had different codes apeared to have the numbers of teeth on the gears that checked.
> 
> ...


Sorry to see your gearbox died. You don't see too many 02M's fail like this. As far as strengthening mods, I personally don't think shot-peening or cryo-treating gears is worth the expense. You can continue to throw stock gearboxes in your car if you don't mind the work or expense. However, I would consider upgrading your gearset to something more substantial considering how much power you make and your driving style. This might save you money in the long run.


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Update time.

Picked up the gearbox and rebuilt in the glorious sunshine in my garden with a few beers, I passed over all the upgrades to the new one but a billet input shaft due to lack of time to turn an insert.



The car was all back together and running within a couple of days 

I'd noticed that my throttle body had been hitting my bonnet which i suspect was on launch. The powerflex bushes did start to look tired and worn out, this called for an upgrade to powerflex black series.





New one all built



Not noticed to much more noise or harshness in the cabin but it was already pretty loud.

VW Action last weekend. Went up on the saturday morning this time with the mrs and kids for their first event. Due to forecast of rain and wanting to spend time with the kids i opted out of running on the saturday and had a good few beverages 

We had a brilliant crowd of friends which made the weekend. My little girl needed some comforting with the noise but soon settled in after a cuddle with the old man





Sunday was a test and tune prepped day with limited numbers, with this i payed the premium price to run hoping for many many runs....this wasn't the case  With a short bit of down time i only managed 3 runs, with queuing times varying from 2.5 hours to just under an hour to get on strip, it certainly wasn't what i had expected for the extra money being sold as max of 100 cars signed on.

First run i snapped yet another driveshaft off of the line which threw that one out of the window.



After a quick change with one of my spares i took with me i was up and running again in around an hour. This next run i went easier on the launch and had less boost off of the line all trying to prevent another breakage. It did result in a slower 60ft of 2 seconds but a reasonable run there after producing an 11.31 @ 132mph.

Simon managed to get a video from behind me on the start line which was nice to see it in another perspective.






Following this run and seeing it was going to be the last of the day i turned the boost up 5% duty cycle across the range, was hoping this would give me that little bit more to hopefully net that holy grail of a 10 second run.

When I lined up i was thrown off by the fact that they had changed to the sportsmans tree rather than the Pro tree they had been running all day, due to this as soon as i saw amber i went to start the antilag and build boost on the line but had to come back out as was to soon. In the past i have found the launch control doesn't always set if isn't from low rpm, so i had to let the revs drop before initiating it again.

The added boost resulted in wheelspin which i then missed a gearchange mid track, all in all without a doubt not my best of runs. It seemed once it all went wrong on the line it seemed to follow down hill from there on.






Slip for my 3 runs, it quite clearly shows the breakage on the first run and my f**k up on the 3rd.



Heres a couple of shots from a Facebook page that a friend kindly pointed me towards





Overall i had a fantastic weekend and loved having the family there to join me. Its become very apparent that I really need a trailer and better accommodation if the mrs and kids are to keep joining me. The sunday "test and Tune" was in my eyes no where what i expected and how it was sold to me, I certainly won't be paying the extra for it on a weekend or when there's an event again, i will do one on a weekday where i'd expect it to be quieter though.

Thats all for now and expect everything will slow down update and development wise for a considerable time now as have eventually completed the purchase of the remaining 75% of our home this week producing more debt besides the obvious mortgage than ever foreseen! But at least it is ours


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

I think you need to call driveshaft shop and order their top of the line axles so you don't keep snapping the factory ones


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Gary_808 (Jan 2, 2014)

Drive shaft shop are mega money, over here in Europe there's a few companies that sell uprated shafts for the s3, that are run on a few 1000hp+ cars and are cheaper than dss. 

I was behind your convoy going into pod on the Saturday, shame about the weather, 

Saw your first run on the Sunday missed the rest, was disappointed with the track largely, for a test and tune day it was shocking, usually the prep is much more frequent, where in my opinion it was worse than a normal rwyb.


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> I think you need to call driveshaft shop and order their top of the line axles so you don't keep snapping the factory ones
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Think something uprated will without a doubt be a smart move, had been talking to DSS previously about an uprated lightweight prop but at the time didn't discuss shafts. I've also started to change the way i launch a bit which should help



Gary_808 said:


> Drive shaft shop are mega money, over here in Europe there's a few companies that sell uprated shafts for the s3, that are run on a few 1000hp+ cars and are cheaper than dss.
> 
> I was behind your convoy going into pod on the Saturday, shame about the weather,
> 
> Saw your first run on the Sunday missed the rest, was disappointed with the track largely, for a test and tune day it was shocking, usually the prep is much more frequent, where in my opinion it was worse than a normal rwyb.


Cool so you saw me testing the new A frame and tow bar on the Mrs car, bloody light board and relay never arrived in time though so had to drive with the hazards on until the little battery in the car went flat. Should swing by and say hi if you see us there again :beer:

Prepped day was a major let down at 3 times the price with supposed limited numbers, few of the Europeans including Daniel from donkey tec were rather upset at the situation.

Be interested to hear more about the upgraded shaft though, you got any links?


----------



## FTMFW (Jan 1, 2008)

Gary_808 said:


> Drive shaft shop are mega money, over here in Europe there's a few companies that sell uprated shafts for the s3, that are run on a few 1000hp+ cars and are cheaper than dss..



Just wondering what other companies you have available? I'm going to be pulling the trigger on some 800+hp O2M axles soon, myself.


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Not updated in a while.

As most have probably got the jist by now, i can't leave things alone for to long and have to tinker with everything as my family would say.

Winter was setting in which meant the car tent made an appearance again for winter developments.

AIM OF THE GAME this winter is increased power to weight ratio 



Car back in its winter home.





Got a new toy as well for my B day from the Mrs and family which will help with the plans over winter.



Been trial fitting some control arms and improved geo subframe.







It is very well made but does require some modding and shaving of other bits to get it in. Bonus being though is the rack is mounted higher and so are the arm mounting points to keep them flat with the average lowered car.
I did also weigh all components and with my previous cast arms/OEM subframe to the new tubular setup the car has lost 7.6KG which is always welcomed.

I really can't wait to get it out and see how much sharper it will be with the subframe and once again less weight up front.

I spent the afternoon making some bits to aid the next part of the project 





Target to be back running is Feb, this will allow some running/shake down time ready for mapping and then some racing me hopes....we will see.

That's all for now


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Update!

Progress has been no where as quick as i would have hoped as aimed to be hitting the road for mid feb but have still none the less made some decent progress.

Theme of this winter works was mainly weight reduction hopefully with a side of some more ponies lol

I go the car on the spit ready for a helping hand to turn it over.



Couple of friends that were round on a friday eve helped me flip it on its side and didn't realize at the time that one had been writing graffiti on the screen :facepalm:



I then sat away for many long long periods removing all the under seal from the car in preparation for some fresh thinner stuff. The underseal had been burnt in a few places whilst doing the cage etc so this was another reason behind doing it.



Its really surprising how thick it really is in some areas.



Quick coat of Carplan underseal



Rear end is still under construction but that will follow shortly.

In the mean while i got some new injectors after maxxing the 1000's and even when turned the pressure up i was still seeing 90% IDC at 4.75bar fuel pressure. I was going to go for 1600's but with future plans i wanted to leave some head room which saw me jumping to Fuel injector development 2000's supplied by Pro-Race Engineering. 

http://www.prorace-engineering.com/FID-Fuel-Injector-Development-Injectors-FIDINJECTORS.htm



Much to my surprise the flow was nearly bang on 2200cc per injector but very closely matched flow rates. Should certainly provide more than enough fuel unless I switch to something more exotic.



Relocating the fuel system, WMI, power steering pumps etc.

I had previously made an enclosure in the rear of the car to house all these items, but have now decided that it was unnecessary weight, alongside the eagerness to remove the spare wheel well i thought i'd combine the two 

I started by cutting out the rear wheel well, I wasn't entirely happy with the amount of strength that would be removed, to compensate and strengthen the back I added some bracing that would also aid mounting a plate over the top and a central parachute mount shall I hit the magic figure and need one.





I then have set about mounting my pumps etc in the rear and making more braces to the haldex mounts.





The old manifold exhaust system etc has now been passed on and will soon be on the residents bumble. Was good to meet Ian today after he drove the length of the country and back to pick it up. I'm sure he'll make good use of it all and look forward to seeing the results.



Been collecting some more bits ready for the next round of under bonnet changes:hubbahubba:




TBC


----------



## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

Awesome update - love the rotisserie!

I’ve been planning to move engine ancillaries to the spare tire area too so keep it up and I’ll be taking notes in the meantime :thumbup:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

All_Euro said:


> Awesome update - love the rotisserie!
> 
> I’ve been planning to move engine ancillaries to the spare tire area too so keep it up and I’ll be taking notes in the meantime :thumbup:


Thanks, it worked ok but could have been better with center of gravity but was a bit limited with size of space i had to work in.

I had previously moved it all to the rear bench in an enclosure but could save some weight doing away with it so why not hey


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Well over due update although very brief with some big gaps to fill at a later date but she's running 

First start thursday afternoon then towed straight to santa pod for running in and some running down the strip for testing and adjustments.

Couple of quick pics 

Crank to flywheel strengthening



More bottom end strengthening



Engine built



4" Downpipe with exhaust to be finished at a later date



First start






Some rods which will be released soon 







Will do a more detailed update when have the time


----------



## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Pinning the crank and flywheel is a good idea. Any reason for not just threading holes in crank and just using more bolts?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

One-Eight GTI said:


> Pinning the crank and flywheel is a good idea. Any reason for not just threading holes in crank and just using more bolts?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


TBH if i done it again i would most probably just bolt it but at the time had the tool steel dowel pins around and seemed like a logical solution. Nothing to calculated lol


----------



## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Looking good.


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

20v master said:


> Looking good.


Thanks! Can't wait to wind it up


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Looks great man love all the new updates, how are you fitting the downpipe through the tunnel? My 3.5 inch downpipe barely fits 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Budsdubbin2 (Sep 20, 2016)

wowwwwwwww this might be one of my favorite builds of all time. Well done on all supporting mods I wonder how the driveline will survive :laugh:


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Thanks guys much appreciated, nice to know that people do still occasionally browse the forums these days rather than just facebook etc.

Little update,

Car made it to pod after 20 miles of road use and started to map and make some adjustments there. After 3 runs at actuator pressure of 0.5 bar i kept increasing the duty cycle bit by bit to bring some boost in and wasn't getting any results which was strange, i got up to some quite high duty values and couldn't work it out why had no boost.

After some thinking had worked out that Freddie (2 years old) whilst had been playing in my car had flicked an old switch to disconnect the boost solenoid. Doh so few runs wasted trying to sort that but never mind.

Did get one final run in at 2.2bar before the weekend was out. Launch was terrible and bogged right down, gear changes were also pretty abysmal with 3rd-4th gear change taking 1.6s according to the logs lol (gear linkage mech still hadn't been alligned) all in all though the car felt very lively when was on boost and really looking forward to see how well it performs with flatshift working to keep the big turbo moving and a reasonable launch to nip the 60ft time.

Couple of pictures of me on the strip and the few cars in our group in the pits. The "no worries" text on the window was some banter back and forth with the commentators after they accidentally said "SHE" has done.... over the tanoy lol





The 2nd team car, the mk1 golf with a pretty similar engine setup to mine, bit of a handful.





After santa pod i managed to get the rest of the downpipe and system finished all in 4" 102mm pipe from turbo to tip.

I'm really starting to enjoy the TIG now have had some time on it, i'm not fantastic by any means but it has without a doubt improved the more i have done. I will now just generally hit you with loads of pics of boring tube stuck together.









Getting this blunt carbide burr a bit to hot before she hits the bin :whistle2:



A few shots of under the car with 2 x boxes/silencers to quieten it down. 



Still got to fully weld exhaust tip exit on









Quick video of its first start up on the new exhaust






Hopefully have some times and dyno plots by the time i get round to updating again


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

So what a few weeks of hell ive had with the car!! 90% of it fueling, some spark related and also a starter motor to throw into the mix.

I started getting the occasional miss fire under boost and had a coil pack on number 4 fail which i suspect was due to heat. Following this I set about a coilpack conversion to move the coilpacks away from the heat and to make #4 easier to access following a slight design flaw on the manifold wastegate placement lol (will be getting some longer leads as well as don't like how tight they are, i didn't mount the coils in the original position i had planned)









Whilst it was off the road i had also planned on a couple of fueling system changes, i changed the rail feed to -8an from -6 to cope with the extra flow required and hopefully reduce pressure drop making it easier on the pumps, at the same time I relocated the fuel filter to Just before the rail. I even had Freddie get all keen and try and help out. Got to start them young 



Cheeky little look on his face. Strict instructions from the Mrs though the children are not allowed in the "racecar" 



Addition of once again another cooler on the car.



Upon running the car after it had sat for some time i found that I'd only get a few miles down the road and the car would start to misfire and die on me, it done this to me a few times and had to get the mrs to come and recover me and the car much to her disgust.
It was really hard to pin point what it was causing this, spent many hours thinking monitoring and trying things, i relocated the fuel pressure gauge into the car to help with diagnosing the issues.

It turns out my surge tank was running empty and pockets of air were being picked up causing me occasional misfires on longer pulls, this got worse and worse over time until it got to the point the car wouldn't run and the gauge pressure drop was evident. Upon much more digging, it would turn out to be that the DW65V intank pump doesn't pick up from the other saddle without load against the main outlet. Usually main outlet is minimum 3 bar but on mine with the surge tank etc it is absolutely minimal which causes the suction jet/venturi system for other side pick up to not function correctly. I found that by putting a clamp on the feed line to make it build pressure solved this but was inconsistant.

Next up was dyno day which had crept up far fa to quickly and wasn't prepared as would have liked to have been.

Car strapped in at street racers



We quite quickly was greated with occasional misfires after multiple pulls etc, which shockingly again was the intank pump not picking up from the other side of the saddle, brimming the tank sorted this.
Not long down the road we hit the same sort of issues again but the tank was pretty full. Upon pulling the intank craddle out and dismatling, it was very apparent what had been causing the next round of issues. Swollen o-rings becoming unseated.





A quick bit of pikey modifying sorted this issue though and the pump functioned with no o-rings in the basket lol



After a morning of irratic fueling we was hopeful that the afternoon would bring us more Joy

Gordon started by trying to get a nice steady base boost profile around 1 bar across the board, had occasional reocurring misfire on boost, after changing the plugs we brought the gaps down from 0.7 - 0.6mm, this certainly sorted it. For now! 

We then started to put some a little more boost into it up to 1.2 bar but was greated with more occasional misfires again. We started hunting high and low trying to work out what was going on until it progressed and started running on 3 cylinders 

This turned out to be a dead coil pack which i may add was brand new 2 weeks prior!! Luckily i purchased 5 so would be covered.....I left the sodding thing at home! B******KS

We ended up proceeding by linking a Honda coil in that was knocking around to get us out of Jail so could progress on,there was nowhere that we could find a new coil to purchase, to drive to pick mine up is a 5 hour round trip.





Thinking we was getting somewhere now and all this was behind us he started mapping again.

Once again after some time we discovered that the fueling system just wasn't keeping up, and this time it was the 044's. It took a few runs and a little while before we realized that fuel pressure was dropping off during the pull but not the same characteristics as before with air being drawn in.

By this point we flew the white flag and called it a day as knew that there was no point progressing. Below is a couple of graphs and relative logs.







On this run it did have a bit of a boost spike but fueling was rich at the same time robbing power at that point as went below 10:1 afr, but does most certainly look promising making 400hp @ 1.1 bar boost at as low as 6700rpm.

Next one was more of a test run to accentuate the fuel pressure dropping with a boost pressure to raise fuel pressure. We saw it dropping by nearly 1 bar nearer the end of the run. 





Once again running rich made the power start to tail on the graph but very happy with how the potential of how this setup is looking certainly wasn't expecting it to spool and make this much power this low down for the size of turbo. 420hp at 5300 

All in all what a bloody pain in the arse it has been but the potential is looking massive once put some real revs in there as hope power will still keep climbing without finding the point of leveling off like the HTA3586.
Wondering if will see the main bulk of the range of the new 5 bar MAP sensor as well as expect it will still keep gaining power around 3 bar region....who knows?

Cant wait to get it mapped full with timing and boost suitably optimized to find out though


----------



## StaceyS3 (Sep 22, 2012)

Been getting the car ready for a big weekend ahead at bugjam!

First off swapped out my early proto subframe with heavily altered geo mounts for a newer revised one as is to much for a 4wd car with prop clearance. Would perfectly suit a fwd based car though



New



Old ( nice and light at 7kg iirc)


Took the car for some finalised alignment, big thanks to the guys at Tyre-Smart in witham, if your local give these guys a go, Martin on the alignmnet side really knows his stuff!



Got to eventually see these in the flesh as completed sets and am well chuffed with the results. 







The car because of the help of a close friend has had its first "proper" clean in 6 or so years! Am so chuffed with he has done, although he wasn't still happy with it at all and wants more time. We had a total of 4 hours on it and i was schooled and learnt so much on the way. I'm now proud to say the paint doesn't feel like sand paper any more!! The clay bar turned a rusty orange colour which can only assume is from the metal fillings embeded in the paint form the years of fabrication.

Before pics





After







I was well chuffed but the OCD and perfectionist ion Gary said it need double the amount of time it had

Last but not least during some road mapping i done some testing! This was at 1.6-1.7bar and was short shifting 1000-1500 rpm, at Santa Pod and with more mapping time it will be >2.5bar and lots more revs which is where the car really feels like it comes alive. Launch will also be raised and mor aggressive but was trying my best not to break it days before the event.






If your at Bugjam this weekend don't hesitate to come over and hello.


----------

