# Audi TT Quattro Air Suspension Build



## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

Hi All,
This will be my build/built thread for my installation of an air suspension system to my 2002 Audi TT 225 Quattro. 
*THE CAR*
Here is the car that is going to be bagged. It is completely stock - Canadian bumper tumours and all.

















*ELECTRICAL*
I went to the electronics surplus store (a1parts.ca) and bought all the following items for my air management:
- 100' of 18 gauge wire (20x 5 different coloured wire)
- 20 ' 12 gauge wire for ignition power and grounds (10' green wire and 10' black wire)
- 20' 4 gauge wire for battery power
- 1x 40amp fuse and in-line fuse holder
- 7' cable management loom
- 2x Rocker switches 
- 1x Illuminated On/Off switch for the Pressuryte Ride Control
- 1x On/Off switch to cut power to the compressor
- 1x Terminal Block for the grounds/constant power 
- 4x Rubber Grommets for running the air line through the car 
The red 4-gauge wire will be run from the battery through a 40amp fuse and connected to a power block. The green 12 gauge wire will be run from the fuse box through a 15amp in-line fuse and will connect to one half of the distribution block for switched/ignition power. The black 12 gauge will be grounded to the chasis and will connect to the other half of the distribution block. 

*AIR MANAGEMENT*
After toying with the idea of using the Arnott Quad Air Control system, I ended up going with someone local for my air management (airassisted.ca). I went with a pretty barebones system (front/back system, no gauges, small tank, single compressor) along with the Pressurtye unit. I don't want to be fumbling around with the switches everytime I go for a ride, so the Pressuryte system fit the bill perfectly. Also, this way I can set the ride height once and not have to use gauges to set the ride height; hence the gaugeless setup. I may end up adding gauges in the future and maybe even move up to 8-valves, but right now that stuff isn't essential. [email protected] hooked me up with the following:
- 4x 3/8" Asco Valves
- 1x Viair 480c Compressor
- 1x 3 Gallon Aluminum Tank
- 1x SMC Metal Water Trap
- 1x Fitting Pack
- 1x Fab Lab's Pressuryte Controller
- 40 feet of 1/4" line for the bags
- 5 feet of 1/8" line for the Pressuryte

*SUSPENSION*
I decided to go with the new Mason-Tech components for both the front and rear. Matt and Scott were great to deal with and they even brought the front air struts to Brokedown 09 so I could pick them up. The rears had a problem during final construction, but Matt and Scott sorted it out and sent me a pair of their new single-bellow bags for the rear - the earlier design used a sleeve bag. For now, I will use the stock struts for the rear until I save up for Konis or Bilsteins. 
Mason Tech Front Air Struts and Rear Air Springs:








Rear Bag Top:








Rear Bag Bottom (ignore the Rivnut, it should be on the top):








Front Strut Top:









*AIR MANAGEMENT BUILD/TEST*
I put together the air management components outside the car. All the components are mounted on a 14"x34"x1/2" piece of MDF which will be bolted to the car. A future project will be to build an enclosure to hide all the components.
I mocked up the my switch panel using some cardboard. A switchbox is unnecessary for a 4-valve setup and will just clutter the nice interior of the TT. The 1st rocker is for the front bags and the 2nd rocker is for the rear bags. The red switch is illuminated and is for the Pressuryte. The black switch is for cutting power to the compressor.
























Switch Panel - using the cardboard template, I made the switch panel from a piece out of wood and wrapped it in black vinyl.
















Asco valves - all fittings were wrapped with orange teflon tape (from Home Depot) and secured with Loctite 545 (Fastenal.com):
















Viair 480c compressor (see issue #1) - much more quiet that I thought it would be:








SMC watertrap (see issue #5):








Distribution Block - the green/red wires are for ignition power and the black wires are grounds:








Constant Power Block (for testing purposes, I connected both constant and switched power to the power block):








The Pressuryte Unit - since this is a front/back system, only 2 of the 4 ports are used:








The Completed system that will sit in place of the back seat:








Testing the system - Using a portable battery booster, I checked that the compressor fills the tank. Thankfully I have zero leaks! 








The air management will sit in place of the rear seats which I have removed from the TT. If you've ever sat in or seen the rear seats of a TT, you'll understand how useless they are and why I decided to place the management there instead of the spare tire well like most people do. This way, I keep my spare and avoid becoming a taxi.
*ISSUES/CONCERNS*
1) The 480c should fill the 3-gallon tank in under a minute, but it is running continously and doesn't turn off. I am thinking that it is not receiving enough power from the battery charger I used to test the system. I will test the system using booster cables and a running car to see if it is just a power issue - hopefully it is. If its not that it must be a faultly compressor or pressure swtich Any ideas?

2) Due to the limited space, I had to cram everything together and because of the height of the tank I could not mount the water trap completely upright (its slanted on a 45* angle). Can any confirm that this will be okay? I can raise the tank a bit, but I really don't want to have it exposed. This is a total newb question, but how do you empty the water trap? My guess is turn the black knob to open. 

3) The illumination for the Pressurtye switch does not work. I will need to get a replacement.

4) Can someone confirm if a 15amp fuse is suitable to fuse the wire from the fuse box to the distribution block? _This should be fine._

5) Should I fuse any other components like the pressure switch?_It is not necessary to fuse anything other than the 12v switched power_
6) I am concerned with the yellow wire from the relay harness that is connected to the compressor's red power wire. Can someone please confirm that this is okay? I think the harness wire is very thin (~18 gauge) when compared to the compressor wire (~12 gauge). Maybe this is what is causing issue #1? _I removed the harness and connected it directly to the relay just in case_


_Modified by iamraymond at 9:20 AM 2-19-2010_


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## Morio (Feb 16, 1999)

*Re: Audi TT Quattro Air Suspension Build (iamraymond)*

I am definitely going to follow this thread...... I am hoping to stat my build for my TTQC next month... (ordering parts now)
are you going to cover everything up or leave it exposed?


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## SoloGLI (Jan 20, 2005)

*FV-QR*

Looks good so far... Here's a picture for some motivation


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## Jesster (Mar 28, 2007)

Nice work! Pic of said car being bagged plz


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: Audi TT Quattro Air Suspension Build (Morio)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Morio* »_I am definitely going to follow this thread...... I am hoping to stat my build for my TTQC next month... (ordering parts now)
are you going to cover everything up or leave it exposed?

Everything is going to be covered up evenutally. That will be next project after the suspension is installed. I am hoping to complete the air management and install the suspension components this weekend.
The car right now is pretty much bone stock. And not only is it stock, but it has the Canadian bumper tumours. I've got a 3-piece wheel project I am working on as well, but that is on the back burner until I finish the suspension.


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: Audi TT Quattro Air Suspension Build (iamraymond)*

I just tested the compressor using a running car/booster cables. I found that it takes approximately 5 minutes for the 480c fill up the 3-gallon tank before the pressure switch (110-145) cuts the power. Is this normal?
ALso if I hit a switch, the compressor comes on immediately. Is this normal? I thought there would be a bit of buffer before the compressor comes on again (i.e. until the pressure in the tank drops below 110psi).


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## SoloGLI (Jan 20, 2005)

*FV-QR*

With a 3 gallon tank, its probably going to come on anytime you fill the bags. I have a 5 gallon tank, and if I raise and lower the car two MAYBE 3 times, the compressors usually turn on.


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: Audi TT Quattro Air Suspension Build (iamraymond)*

I did a bit of work tonight. I went to a local store (Princess Auto) and bought the following:
- 1/2" brass tee
- 1/8" NPT schrader valve
- 200psi gauge 1/4" NPT
- 1/4" NPT to 1/2" NPT adapter
I drilled a hole into the tee and tapped a 1/8" thread for the schrader valve. With this valve I will still be able to add air to the tank in the event that my compressor fails using a standard pump (i.e. cigarette lighter compressor or at a gas station). I can also safely release the air when I need to drain the tank.
I also added a tank gauge. Since the tee is 1/2" NPT and the gauge is 1/4" I needed to use an adapter.
Anyway onto the pics:


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## GnarPassatWagon (Mar 7, 2009)

dope


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: (GnarPassatWagon)*

Another thing I did last night was to eliminate the relay harness. I connected the wires directly to the really because I wasn't comfortable with the gauge of wire used to provide power to the compressor. 
I'm at the shop now and hopefully have the management installed by EOD.


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: (iamraymond)*

Today was a busy day. I visited [email protected] again today to pick up a few fittings for the suspension components:
- 2x 1/4" NPT to 1/4" PTC
- 2x 1/4" NPT to 1/4" NPT coupler
- 2x 3/8" NPT to 1/4" PTC 90*
The front leader lines used 1/4" NPT which needed to connect to the 1/4" air line that I am using - a coupler and NPT to PTC fitting fixed that. The rears were a bit more work. I had to remove the threaded rod and 3/8" fitting from the rear bags. I swapped the 3/8" fittings with 3/8" NPT to 1/4" PTC 90* fittings. I used thread locker on the threaded rod and orange teflon/loctite 545 for all the fittings.
3/8" Fitting on the Rear - 








Swapped the 3/8" fitting for a 1/4" fitting - 








1/4" NPT on the left and 1/4" PTC on the right - 










_Modified by iamraymond at 3:06 PM 2-16-2010_


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: Audi TT Quattro Air Suspension Build (iamraymond)*

*AIR MANAGEMENT INSTALLATION*
I also got the air management installed in the car today. First thing was to connect the 4g red wire to the battery and fused with a 30amp in line fuse. This wire was passed through an existing hole in the firewall, behind the fusebox and along the side panel to the rear of the car. 12g green wire connected to 75w in the fuse box and fused with a 15amp in line fuse. I ran this wire along with the 4g to the rear of the car. 
The air management was seated in place of the rear seats, but I need to make a few brackets to hold the whole thing in place. Last thing that we did was run the wires for the switches before testing - everything works just as it did outside the car.
30amp fuse in engine bay








Air management secured to the car.








Bracket to secure the management:








I'll take some pictures of the installed parts on Monday when we install the suspension. 


_Modified by iamraymond at 9:08 PM 2-17-2010_


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## Grig85 (Feb 11, 2006)

*Re: Audi TT Quattro Air Suspension Build (iamraymond)*

love the switches http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Morio (Feb 16, 1999)

*Re: Audi TT Quattro Air Suspension Build (Grig85)*

patiently waiting for more pics tomorrow!!!







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
looks awesome!


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## Swbd4L (Aug 25, 2008)

*Re: Audi TT Quattro Air Suspension Build (Morio)*

Going to be watching this! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## mk4_1.8t (Jul 21, 2008)

*Re: Audi TT Quattro Air Suspension Build (Swbd4L)*

watching http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## bklnstunt718 (May 30, 2007)

*Re: Audi TT Quattro Air Suspension Build (mk4_1.8t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mk4_1.8t* »_watching http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

im aware that this piece goes into the cone looking piece... but wont this stop the rear from going low ??


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## SoloGLI (Jan 20, 2005)

*FV-QR*

Look at the picture I posted of my TT. Mason-Tech rears, with nothing trimmed. That's how low they get on 19's.


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## bklnstunt718 (May 30, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (SoloGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SoloGLI* »_Look at the picture I posted of my TT. Mason-Tech rears, with nothing trimmed. That's how low they get on 19's.

well i think with that piece off.. you'd go a lot lower!!! hehe


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## SoloGLI (Jan 20, 2005)

*FV-QR*

Can't take it off, but you can shave it down, and that should help get it lower.


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## bklnstunt718 (May 30, 2007)

wait.. lol.. shave what.. the cone looking thing on your suspension or the mason tech metal piece?


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Rear Installation*

*SECURING AIR MANAGEMENT*
Today was another busy day. We started off by making brackets to hold the air management in the car. We used stock seat belt holes so everything is reversable; I am trying to minimize the amount of holes drilled in to the car in case I want to sell it in the future.
Once the management was all tied down, we ran the air lines. It took a bit of time to plan out where we wanted to place the air. The gas tank is huge and takes half the rear end. The other half of the rear end is covered with the exhaust and differential. What we ended up with was running the two air lines into the center console and through the parking cable grommets.
Air lines through the parking cable grommets












_Modified by iamraymond at 3:04 PM 2-16-2010_


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*REAR INSTALLATION*

*REAR BAG INSTALL*
Once the air lines were laid out underneath the car, we started the rear bag install. We remove the stock springs and the bottom rubber spring seat. 
Then we installed the supplied rivnut into the top seat. To do this, we took a bolt that was the same thread as the rivnut and a nut that was the same diameter as the rivnut. Then we drilled the threads out of the nut. We tightened the rivnut to the bolt with the threadless nut sandwiched between to act as the anvil. Then we placed the rivnut into the hole in the top spring seat and started tightening the rivnut into the car. You basically hold a threadless nut in place against the top spring seat hole and starting tightening the bolt. You will pull down the rivnut until it is crushed against the hole.
The rivnut install:








Hold the threadless nut to the top spring seat and tighten the bolt to crush the rivnut:









Then we secured the rear bag to the rivnut. The bag is not secured to the bottom in anyway. I figured the coil springs aren't, so why should the air bags? Since they aren't secured to the bottom, when we lift the car the bag will simply separate and the bag won't be stretched apart. Here are some pictures of the installation:
Coil spring removed - 
















Bottom spring seat removed - 








Bag secured to rivnut/top spring seat (with my dad in the background) - 








Rear bag installed! 










_Modified by iamraymond at 8:37 PM 2-15-2010_


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## Still Fantana (Jul 16, 2008)

*Re: REAR INSTALLATION (iamraymond)*

http://****************.com/smile/emlove.gif this build


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: REAR INSTALLATION (iamraymond)*

*REAR BAG FINISHED*
Here are some pictures after the installation. With the stock struts and Mason-tech air springs/bags, the car tops out 29.5 inches and bottoms out at 24 inches. Thats on stock wheels/tires (17x7.5 225/45/17)
All up (29.5 inches):








All down (24 inches):








Up:
















Down:
































I am hoping with Koni Yellows the rear will sit a bit lower, but I am still VERY pleased. My goal isn't to go super low (i.e "lay frame"). Plus I don't plan on cutting stuff off my car and I don't really want to shave down the top mount of the rear. All in all, I'm satisfied with the results so far. 
Tomorrow I need to install the front suspension and put my interior back together.


_Modified by iamraymond at 9:34 PM 2-17-2010_


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## Still Fantana (Jul 16, 2008)

is it hitting tires to inside arches right now?


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## SoloGLI (Jan 20, 2005)

*FV-QR*

The koni yellows aren't going to get you any lower... the problem is with the mount. If you want to go lower, you'll have to shave down the mount.


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: (Still Fantana)*

I didn't have time to check for tire clearance today so I will do that tomorrow. The car needs to go on the hoist again for the front suspension install and so I can tidy up the air lines.


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (SoloGLI)*

If new struts won't get me lower, I think I would need to get some new mounts in the future to get any lower. There isn't alot of metal left to shave off the top of the mount and if I did remove some material the gains wouldn't be significant. New mounts with a lower profile would be a better, though more expensive solution.


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## bklnstunt718 (May 30, 2007)

cant wait till the fronts done.. wanna see this done heheh


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## tomespo (Jul 21, 2008)

*Re: (bklnstunt718)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif awesome build, looks like its coming along well, i love the switches!


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (iamraymond)*


_Quote, originally posted by *iamraymond* »_If new struts won't get me lower, I think I would need to get some new mounts in the future to get any lower. There isn't alot of metal left to shave off the top of the mount and if I did remove some material the gains wouldn't be significant. New mounts with a lower profile would be a better, though more expensive solution.

Last night I was thinking in order to get the rears really low, the top coil spring seat (the "nipple") should be completely removed. A flat piece of metal can be welded in place with a rivnut installed in the middle. Then a new air bag mount could be fabbed up which would only need to be tall enough to fit the air fitting. The threaded rod would secured to the newly welded base. This should drop the rear an extra 1.5 inches, but you wouldn't be able to throw a coil spring on the car without welding in a new spring seat/nipple. I think this is what moacur did with his R32 rear setup.


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## Swbd4L (Aug 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (iamraymond)*


_Quote, originally posted by *iamraymond* »_
Last night I was thinking in order to get the rears really low, the top coil spring seat (the "nipple") should be completely removed. A flat piece of metal can be welded in place with a rivnut installed in the middle. Then a new air bag mount could be fabbed up which would only need to be tall enough to fit the air fitting. The threaded rod would secured to the newly welded base. This should drop the rear an extra 1.5 inches, but you wouldn't be able to throw a coil spring on the car without welding in a new spring seat/nipple. I think this is what moacur did with his R32 rear setup. 

Yep moacur just has a simple koni yellow with a AH2 bag for the rear.


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## GnarPassatWagon (Mar 7, 2009)

Look so good







Nice work!


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## SoloGLI (Jan 20, 2005)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Swbd4L* »_
Yep moacur just has a simple koni yellow with a AH2 bag for the rear.


Are you sure Moacur used AH2 bags for the rear? I remember seeing the pics that he had some kind of a double bellow bag. Mason-Tech uses an Air House bag, and the AH2 is just a slightly bigger version of the AH bag.


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## fouckhest (May 22, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (SoloGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SoloGLI* »_
Are you sure Moacur used AH2 bags for the rear? I remember seeing the pics that he had some kind of a double bellow bag. Mason-Tech uses an Air House bag, and the AH2 is just a slightly bigger version of the AH bag.


FYI...not sure what type of bags, but they are a double bellows....i know i am using RE-5s on my haldex setup









_Quote, originally posted by *moacur* »_
For the bottom portion of the bag we drilled a hole on the bottom of the beam and used an extension to screw the screw into the bottom of the bag to keep it in place.. You can see in the pic the extension and the location of that hole..








Once the bag was installed we were cracking up at how high we could now push the wheel assembly up into the wheel well. Had to get a pic of John pushin er up


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*FRONT INSTALL*
The front suspension went in today without any hassles. It involved removing the stock shock/spring and installing the Mason-Tech piece. The leader line was run through an existing grommet in the wheel well. Also, I swapped the straight 1/4" NPT to 1/4" PTC for a 90* fitting to make running the lines a bit easier.
One caveat about the front suspension is that the Mason-Tech struts don't have mounts for the sway bar link. So right now the sway bar is just resting on the control arms. In the future, I may fab up a bracket to mount the sway bar to the control arm or to the strut. If handling isn't severely impacted, I'll just remove it. This shouldn't be a problem for you because I believe the Bagyard Bombers have them - according to SoloGLI
Once everything was tested, I vacuumed the interior and put the everything back together. Unfortunately, I forgot my camera at home so no nice pictures until tomorrow. 
Heres a from my Palm Pre:










_Modified by iamraymond at 5:04 PM 2-18-2010_


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## SoloGLI (Jan 20, 2005)

*FV-QR*

Looks great







Just get some proper wheels on there now and you'll be sitting pretty.


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (SoloGLI)*

Thanks man. I have a set of 3-piece wheels that I am putting together, but I don't know if they will work because of the offsets. Right now the stock wheels already resting on the fender liners. The rears have lots of room. The wheels are 18x8.5 et13 and 18x10 et20 - any ideas? I'll try a test fit soon.
If they don't work out I'll sell them and get a set of 18x8.5 to tuck all around








By the way, I showed my dad the Bagyard rears and he was really impressed. Its a definitely a stronger design with the whole top mount will be flush against the car instead of just the CNC'd piece. And it will also get the rear at least 2 inches lower. DOH! Maybe in the future?


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## Morio (Feb 16, 1999)

*Re: FV-QR (iamraymond)*


_Quote, originally posted by *iamraymond* »_Thanks man. I have a set of 3-piece wheels that I am putting together, but I don't know if they will work because of the offsets. Right now the stock wheels already resting on the fender liners. The rears have lots of room. The wheels are 18x8.5 et13 and 18x10 et20 - any ideas? I'll try a test fit soon.
If they don't work out I'll sell them and get a set of 18x8.5 to tuck all around








By the way, I showed my dad the Bagyard rears and he was really impressed. Its a definitely a stronger design with the whole top mount will be flush against the car instead of just the CNC'd piece. And it will also get the rear at least 2 inches lower. DOH! Maybe in the future? 

AWESOME!!! I am glad I went with Bagyards!!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif







Thanks so much for documenting your install!!! I can't wait to start my install... just waiting for the parts to arrive!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I too am concerned with my wheels... I don't want to sell them


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## SoloGLI (Jan 20, 2005)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *iamraymond* »_Thanks man. I have a set of 3-piece wheels that I am putting together, but I don't know if they will work because of the offsets. Right now the stock wheels already resting on the fender liners. The rears have lots of room. The wheels are 18x8.5 et13 and 18x10 et20 - any ideas? I'll try a test fit soon.
If they don't work out I'll sell them and get a set of 18x8.5 to tuck all around








By the way, I showed my dad the Bagyard rears and he was really impressed. Its a definitely a stronger design with the whole top mount will be flush against the car instead of just the CNC'd piece. And it will also get the rear at least 2 inches lower. DOH! Maybe in the future? 


I've only had one set of wheels on my TT, so I'm not to familiar with what offsets are necessary to sit flush. I'm running 19x8.5et25 all around, and the fronts are PERFECT, the lip of the wheel is touching the inside of the fender when its aired out. But the rears are a little high, I have it tucking the whole tire, but theres room to go much lower, and when you air out the car, the camber pushes the wheel in. I have a 5mm and 10mm spacer to test out, but both of my torque wrenches broke, so I need to get a new one.
As for the Bagyards getting 2 inches lower... I don't think that's necessarily the case because Bagyard uses an AH2 bag, which is larger than the AH bag. But I'll let you guys know in March


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## ilovemyTT (Jan 24, 2008)

just curious. about how much did everything run you?
im wanting to bag my TT and this looks like a nice simple set up to start out with


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## SoloGLI (Jan 20, 2005)

*FV-QR*

Depending on the components you use, an air ride setup can range from $1500 to $4000. With this setup having a very basic management setup and Mason-Tech struts and rear bags, somewhere around $2000 give or take a hundred. That would be my guess.


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (SoloGLI)*

The management from Air Assisted was ~$1200 CDN with taxes.
The Mason-Tech front/rear was $1500 CDN
Electrical Items (wires, switches, fuses etc), came up to $100CDN 
Misc (wood, fasteners, loctite, tank gauge, etc) is another $100CDN.
The management could have been done for less than $1000CDN, but I added the Pressuryte which was an extra $400CDN. Plus in the states, you guys get MUCH better prices than we do, even though our dollar is almost on par.
So all in all approximately *$2900CDN*. Yikes! I never added it all up before.


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## SoloGLI (Jan 20, 2005)

*FV-QR*

The management was that much, even with a small tank and 1 compressor? I forgot to add the Pressuryte to. So I was a little off on this one, but $2800US is about right for a legit setup. Although, personally I would say to get an 8-valve setup, but that's gonna bump the price up to over $3k.


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (iamraymond)*

To put things in perspective, on airassisted.ca the hot rod kit (the base kit I purchased, which was modified with a different compressor, valves and tank) is $669. The american AAC site lists the kit for $449. However, with the current exchange rate, $449 USD = $469CDN - so we get royally screwed out of $200 for being in Canada. Economies of scale, shipping costs and duty fees are at play here. 
Plus to add salt to our wounds.. we get charged 15% on top of that in Ontario for sales tax. 
I'm sure you can go on air for much cheaper than I did since you are in the states. 


_Modified by iamraymond at 6:43 PM 2-17-2010_


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## ilovemyTT (Jan 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (iamraymond)*

yeah. ive priced it out a few times... just havent jumped the gun quite yet...


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (ilovemyTT)*

*AIR MANAGEMENT ENCLOSURE*
My dad's shop wasn't busy today so he did me a huge favour and built an enclosure for the air management. Because of the dimensions of the tank, the top portion had to be exposed. If I completely covered it, the floor would have to be very slanted or raised and would look really ugly. Another thing we did was put foam padding underneath the air management platform to keep the vibrations to a minimum. Last things that need to do inside the car:
-vacuum the carpet
-add a lock to the front so the enclosure doesn't rattle
-cut the ends of the carpet so it lays nicely over the spare wheel cover
-redo the vinyl covering the switch panel
-carpet the platform holding all the air management
-polish the top of the tank.

Fitted closely to the door car:








View from inside the car:








View from the trunk:








Underneath the enclosure (you can see where we ran the airlines in this picture):










_Modified by iamraymond at 9:37 PM 2-17-2010_


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (iamraymond)*

*COMPLETED PICTURES*
The front lip:








The front arch:


















































_Modified by iamraymond at 9:30 PM 2-17-2010_


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## nolangherity (Dec 22, 2005)

1. step back
2. take picture


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: Audi TT Quattro Air Suspension Build (iamraymond)*

I won't be stepping back or taking pictures outside anytime soon. Not until the spring. The shop is too cramped to take nice portraits.


----------



## Morio (Feb 16, 1999)

*Re: Audi TT Quattro Air Suspension Build (iamraymond)*

looks damn nice!!!



































congrats man that is awesome!!! 
BTW, did you notch the passenger side?


----------



## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: Audi TT Quattro Air Suspension Build (Morio)*

Nope. No notching is necessary for the front since there is a lot of room for the control arms and anything else that might hold up the car. The front frame is 'notched' from the factory.



_Modified by iamraymond at 5:04 PM 2-18-2010_


----------



## tomespo (Jul 21, 2008)

awesome man i love the trunk setup polish up that tank!


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## Swbd4L (Aug 25, 2008)

*Re: (justrave)*


_Quote, originally posted by *justrave* »_1. step back
2. take picture

1. Nolan Gherity
2. Nolan Gherity
3. Nolan Gherity


----------



## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: (Swbd4L)*

Who the heck is Nolan Gherity?


----------



## SoloGLI (Jan 20, 2005)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *iamraymond* »_If handling isn't severely impacted, I'll just remove it. This shouldn't be a problem for you because I believe the Bagyard Bombers have them - according to SoloGLI


After talking with Andrew, they don't actually make the mounts unless you request them. But Andrew said they made one set which had the mounts, but the customer ended up not running a sway bar after everything was said and done. So it looks like I'll be following suit as well,


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## masterworks (May 29, 2006)

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif one word 
*PIMP*


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## SoloGLI (Jan 20, 2005)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *iamraymond* »_Nope. No notching is necessary for the front since there is a lot of room for the control arms and anything else that might hold up the car. The front frame is 'notched' from the factory.


Of course no notching is "necessary" but watch your car as it airs out. The axle on the passenger side will stop it from going down as far as the driver side. With a notch, you'll actually get a good amount of drop, but it seems like everything you've done up until now has been reversible just in case you choose to sell in the future. I think once you get your wheels on, you'll notice the difference in drop on the driver side and passenger side.


----------



## Audi S-Line (Oct 20, 2008)

looks very good.....nice job. Won't you get some Euro bumpers. Those are more clean


----------



## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: (Audi S-Line)*

Importing bumpers from Europe and painting them would be very expensive. I'm planning on just shaving the bumper tumours (front and back), headlight washers and molding the grill to the bumper.


----------



## bklnstunt718 (May 30, 2007)

where can i see a pic of the bagyard rear setup ?


----------



## Morio (Feb 16, 1999)

*Re: (bklnstunt718)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bklnstunt718* »_where can i see a pic of the bagyard rear setup ?


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## bklnstunt718 (May 30, 2007)

^i like !


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Some more pics*

Driving Height (Pressuryte ON):
















Parked Height:


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: Some more pics (iamraymond)*

*GNG ADJUSTABLE REAR CONTROL ARMS*
To correct the negative camber caused by lowering the TT, I installed a pair of GNG Adjustable rear control arms. 

























*FRONT SUSPENSION PICTURES*
I took the wheels off to do a test fit today and snapped a picture of the front suspension installed. Also, we added a bushing to the front control arm to connect the sway bar.
Front Mason-Tech Air Struts Installed:








Swaybar connected to the control arm:


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## Morio (Feb 16, 1999)

*Re: Some more pics (iamraymond)*

WOW man!!





















Looks so nice!!! congrats!!! thanks again for posting so many pics!!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Test Fitted*

I think teasers are super gay so I'll show you guys what I've been working on... The wheels are CCW Classics that I got a really good deal on, but the catch was that they were in terrible condition and came in Corvette C5 fitment (18x10 et50 all around; bolt pattern: 5x120; center bore 70mm)... They need alot of work... I'm planning to get two barrels from CCW for the fronts to make two wheels 18x8.5. I've got 18mm and 20mm adapters to make the wheels 18x8.5 et13 and 18x10 et30. I need to buy the barrels, new bolts and tires (215/40 and 225/40).
I took the wheels apart to refinish them. 
I went from this:








to this:








by using one of these:









I did all the math and measurements and the wheels should have fit on paper...thankfully, they fit in practice as well! Here are some pictures from todays test fit:
Front adapters:








Rears:
























The negative rear camber (it won't be this bad when driving though):








Very little clearance against the rear fender liner:









Fronts (no barrels yet):
















Fronts have some negative camber as well:


----------



## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (SoloGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SoloGLI* »_
Of course no notching is "necessary" but watch your car as it airs out. The axle on the passenger side will stop it from going down as far as the driver side. With a notch, you'll actually get a good amount of drop, but it seems like everything you've done up until now has been reversible just in case you choose to sell in the future. I think once you get your wheels on, you'll notice the difference in drop on the driver side and passenger side.

Solo is definitely right. The passenger side does look like it would need a notch if you wanted to get the car really low with big wheels/tires. Thankfully, with my planned setup the axle will stop the car from going too low (i.e. wheel hitting fender)
Heres a picture of the passenger side axle that can come in contact with the frame:


----------



## Morio (Feb 16, 1999)

*Re: FV-QR (iamraymond)*

wheels are badass!!!!!! Can't wait to see them on there!!!


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## Swbd4L (Aug 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Morio)*

get a 35 offset tire instead of 40.so you can get lower


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## bklnstunt718 (May 30, 2007)

dude!! you have one sickkk tt i love the wheels !!! really great choice!!


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## GnarPassatWagon (Mar 7, 2009)

Love the update dude, awesome build and grgeous wheels. I migh tlike em on My passat


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## Mattionals (Mar 9, 2005)

*Re: (GnarPassatWagon)*

Dude I dig the entire build! I assume you only have to notch the passenger front correct? everything should clear fine underneath. What shocks are you running on the rear?


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## weakstyles. (May 29, 2008)

*Re: (PDubbs20AE)*

I notched my passenger side frame on my TT. Im basicly the lowest you can go. both sides of the subframe drag, also my dogbone. Im below 21.5" in the front
this was on 17" CCWs


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## weakstyles. (May 29, 2008)

*Re: (weakstyles.)*

also, check the bump stops on the stock rear struts. the bagyard rears look perfect to get the rear lower without getting into some fabrication


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: (weakstyles.)*

weakstyles, thanks alot of your help with the offsets. The guidelines that you gave me were great...the CCWs fit perfectly. Credit goes to you! 
However, I don't planning on notching the frame of my car. This may change in the future, but for now it looks like the tire would hit the fender liner before the axle hits the frame.


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: (PDubbs20AE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PDubbs20AE* »_Dude I dig the entire build! I assume you only have to notch the passenger front correct? everything should clear fine underneath. What shocks are you running on the rear?

I'm running the stock Monroe shocks in the rear for now, but in the future I plan on buying a pair of Koni Yellows (they are on sale right now until June, btw).
I do not think the driver side needs to be notched, only the passenger side.


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## Morio (Feb 16, 1999)

*Re: (iamraymond)*

Man everything looks so good!!!! I can't wait to see it completed....
My management comes in tomorrow!!! So I will start my build this coming weekend!! Thanks again for sharing your build!


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: (Morio)*

Yeah no problem. Since I bothered so many people with questions, I figured that I should contribute something back. Thanks goes out to SoloGLI, weakstyles, [email protected], and Matt/[email protected] 
BTW, I ordered the barrels from CCW and new Stainless ARP bolts from DMP today. Hopefully I will have the wheels together by mid-March.


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## SoloGLI (Jan 20, 2005)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *iamraymond* »_Yeah no problem. Since I bothered so many people with questions, I figured that I should contribute something back. Thanks goes out to SoloGLI, weakstyles, [email protected], and Matt/[email protected] 
BTW, I ordered the barrels from CCW and new Stainless ARP bolts from DMP today. Hopefully I will have the wheels together by mid-March. 


Just happy to see another TT on air http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif And this one looks like its gonna be a beast once the wheels are on!


_Modified by SoloGLI at 5:31 PM 2-22-2010_


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## bklnstunt718 (May 30, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (SoloGLI)*

cant wait to start my built..


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## GnarPassatWagon (Mar 7, 2009)

LOOKS SO GOOD


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## DOHC91GLI (Mar 21, 2004)

TT looks awesome.


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## [email protected] (Jan 26, 2006)

Looks great Raymond!


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Heres a sound/video clip of inside the cabin with the 480c compressor on.
The first few seconds is the air being exhausted, then filling the bags again which starts the compressor (0:13).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vY8GPDNMTgo


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## got_vdub (Jul 3, 2003)

*Re: (iamraymond)*

subscribed


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## Swbd4L (Aug 25, 2008)

*Re: (got_vdub)*

What causes the TT to not look so low with the front/side/rear? is it just that the frame sits so low or what? the front bumper looks far from the ground even on that red TT... hmmm
and is your rear completly aired out or is it sitting on the fender liner or what?


_Modified by Swbd4L at 9:11 AM 3-3-2010_


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: (Swbd4L)*









I think it’s simply the body of the TT. Even when the frame is resting on the ground (like weakstyles. red TT) there is much more gap between the bumper and the ground than say an R32 or MK4 Golf. 
With stock suspension, the TT looks almost like a sports car that has been lifted; unlike a Porsche or BMW whose body sits closer to the ground/tires from the factory. Also, I find that the arches exaggerate the gap between body and wheel. A 17” wheel looks fine in the MK4 body, but a similarly sized wheel would look diminutive in the TT - an 18” or 19” wheel would be better suited to the large arches. The same applies for the Corrado vs. MK3; though they share the same platform, the Corrado accepts a 17” wheel much better than a MK3 Golf/Jetta will. 
With regards to the rear of the car, the reason it doesn’t seem to sit very low right now is because of the way the rear air spring is mounted. Unless you remove the top spring seat/nipple completely and mount the top of the bag flat against the floor of the car, then you won’t see much drop. I think the Bagyard rears can help with getting the back down, but I think the best solution is to mount the bags so they are flat against the lower arm/beam and flat against the floor of the car.
I spoke to Ray from Rayvern Hydraulics in the UK (the guy who did Norm’s TT). And he told me that in order to get the car as low as possible, he cut off the spring seat/nipple and actually created a cavity in the lower arm for the bag to sit in. 








Unfortunately, I don’t have the skills/tools/balls necessary to do that. Mounting the bag flat against the floor and lower arm without the CNC’d mounts would get the car pretty low though.


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: (iamraymond)*

Here is a diagram showing how the rear air springs are currently mounted:








Here is a diagram showing how the rear spring should be mounted to get the back-end lower:


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## Swbd4L (Aug 25, 2008)

*Re: (iamraymond)*

interesting. koni yellows might help your situation also to be honest. Id like to see before and after shots with that setup. also the ccw's are going to be awesome.
im not a fan of modifying the stock appearance of a cars bumpers/side skirts/ but maybe there is something that can be done to the TT to make the body itself sit lower when the frame is hitting? of course not making it look outrageous but completly clean and not to far off from the normal look. makes me wonder whats out there to modify the appearance


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: (Swbd4L)*

The 3.2, Votex or Caractre front and Votex sides are the only pieces I would consider, as they don't ruin the car's original lines.


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## berg cup (Feb 20, 2006)

*Re: (iamraymond)*

good lawd that wheel fitment is on point http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Mattionals (Mar 9, 2005)

*Re: (dubmob_vr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubmob_vr6* »_good lawd that wheel fitment is on point http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

They do look awesome in there, what final offset are they and how wide?


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

Currently they are 18x8.5 et13 and 18x10 et30.
I might mill 5mm off the front to make them et 18 so they will sit more inside the fender.


----------



## beacom (May 23, 2007)

*Re: (iamraymond)*

looks good http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Mattionals (Mar 9, 2005)

*Re: (beacom)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PDubbs20AE* »_
They do look awesome in there, what final offset are they and how wide?

Awesome! I used the TT calculator and it was saying flush with fender was 22 up front, so I guess that is wrong?
I obviously want to tuck a bit so I clear the tire when I air out. Good info! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## SoloGLI (Jan 20, 2005)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *PDubbs20AE* »_
Awesome! I used the TT calculator and it was saying flush with fender was 22 up front, so I guess that is wrong?
I obviously want to tuck a bit so I clear the tire when I air out. Good info! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


Well I'm running 19x8.5et25 all around and the fronts sit JUST inside the fender with no more room to push them out. I'm still trying to figure out the best offset for the rear, and I have a 5mm and 10mm spacer in my car waiting for a test fit.


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## bklnstunt718 (May 30, 2007)

*Re: (iamraymond)*


_Quote, originally posted by *iamraymond* »_
I spoke to Ray from Rayvern Hydraulics in the UK (the guy who did Norm’s TT). And he told me that in order to get the car as low as possible, he cut off the spring seat/nipple and actually created a cavity in the lower arm for the bag to sit in. 
[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

does ray have any pics for us ??


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

Sorry I don't have any pictures of Norm's setup. I messaged him (and the new owner) on E38, but I didn't receive a response yet. 
But just picture this with a section cut out and a metal cavity welded in for the bottom of the air bag; and the top nipple cut off.


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## weakstyles. (May 29, 2008)

*Re: (iamraymond)*

Remeber the reason why mk4s look soo low is the fact that they have those front lips. personally I like how our bumpers dont sit soo low, yet the whole car itself sits a good 4 inches lower than anything else. its way I own the limbo contest at airaffiar








alot of the mk5 guys do that to their rear, cut a deeper hole in the rear arms in order to let the bag sit lower, and also cut the nipple off. On my car I did the same thing, but as youll know its a completely different setup. My buddy was planning on doing air downhere and this is exactly want I wanted to do with it. Someone needs to do this ASAP!! I want a quattro and a shet load of camber!!


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## SoloGLI (Jan 20, 2005)

*FV-QR*

After I get my bagyards and see how it sits in the rear, I'll figure out if I want to cut that off or not. I'm thinking I might just do it when I do the notch on my car, but we'll see... might be a bit more work than I want to get into.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (iamraymond)*

Sick build, why did I have to see this when I'm about to buy rods







Please post up driving impressions and describe how the car feels http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## SoloGLI (Jan 20, 2005)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_Sick build, why did I have to see this when I'm about to buy rods







Please post up driving impressions and describe how the car feels http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


As long as you buy quality parts, it will handle as good as any quality coilover setup. I've now had my bagyards on my MK4 Jetta and my TT and they both handle very nicely with no issues. I'd say they were comparable to my V3's on my Jetta. Granted I only did spirited drives occasionally through some canyons, but for a setup on a daily driven car, its fantastic and its one of my favorite mods I've ever done (even more so than my BT on my Jetta).


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (SoloGLI)*

What should I realistically expect to spend on a nice setup when all is said and done? I'm talking pretty basic, I don't need fancy


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## SoloGLI (Jan 20, 2005)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_What should I realistically expect to spend on a nice setup when all is said and done? I'm talking pretty basic, I don't need fancy


Sent you a lengthy PM so we don't have to thread-jack this thread.


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## low_quattro (Jun 30, 2008)

Have a picture of your new mounting now?


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: (low_quattro)*

I won't be changing the way the rear bag mounts until I get my wheels/tires on. If the rear gap is too disproportionate with the front, then I'll consider hacking away at it again.
The wheels should take another couple weeks.


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## furr (Jul 3, 2009)

*Re: (iamraymond)*

wow love the rims man, and cant wait to see the final product







keep up the good work


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## Morio (Feb 16, 1999)

*Re: (rubAdubDUB01)*

bump!!! 
Where did you place the air lines under the car???


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: (Morio)*

I'm going to install Koni Yellows next weekend. I'll take pictures of the lines when the car is on the hoist. I don't remember where we ran them.


----------



## Morio (Feb 16, 1999)

*Re: (iamraymond)*

Thanks man!!!


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## weakstyles. (May 29, 2008)

*Re: (Morio)*

I run mine with the fuel lines


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## bklnstunt718 (May 30, 2007)

cant wait to see the car with them wheels on


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## SoloGLI (Jan 20, 2005)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *weakstyles.* »_I run mine with the fuel lines


Same here.


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (SoloGLI)*

CCW was taking way too long to get my new barrels, so I picked up a different set of wheels for this season. I'll probably run the CCWs later on in the year or next year. The wheels are 18x8.5 et52 with 25mm adapters in the front and 33mm in the rear. Tires are 215/40/18.
I also added a pair of Koni Yellows which are alot shorter than stock and ride better when lowered. However, they didn't help in dropping the back end. I'll have to address the rear in the future to get it lower since the car has too much rake.
Here's some pics I took yesterday:


----------



## Morio (Feb 16, 1999)

*Re: FV-QR (iamraymond)*

looks fantastic!!!!!
















and thanks guys!! Fuel lines it is!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## SoloGLI (Jan 20, 2005)

*FV-QR*

Lookin good, but you need to trim down that rear bracket. It's killing the stance. I'm sure you feel the same way.


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## weakstyles. (May 29, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (SoloGLI)*

yea once the rear is dialed in, you will be golden


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (weakstyles.)*

Yeah the rear definitely needs to go down this summer.


----------



## SoloGLI (Jan 20, 2005)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *iamraymond* »_Yeah the rear definitely needs to go down this summer. 


Why wait? You can have the brackets off rather quickly, then just take it to a machine shop to shaved it down. You're car wouldn't even be down for an entire day.


----------



## Swbd4L (Aug 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (iamraymond)*


_Quote, originally posted by *iamraymond* »_
I also added a pair of Koni Yellows which are alot shorter than stock and ride better when lowered. However, they didn't help in dropping the back end. 
Here's some pics I took yesterday:


this very well did surprise me... um what bag are you running for the rear? AH2? the car HAS to go lower than the stock shocks... youve gotta be kidding!


----------



## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Swbd4L)*

Nope. Even though the Koni Yellows are ~25% shorter than stock, they didn't bring the car down at all - and if it did, the difference is unnoticeable. 
I really don't think machining the mounts will make much difference either - can only take 0.25 to 0.5 inches off the mount. What I'm planning is to cut the spring seat off the top and mount the bag flat against the floor. It sucks because I really did not want to cut up the car and if I cut off the spring seat, I won't be able to just throw springs on the car again without welding a new nub.
The Mason-Tech rears use Universal Air House bags (not AH2). I'll probably sell the bags with the brackets and purchase new AH2 bags when I end up modifying the rear.


----------



## SoloGLI (Jan 20, 2005)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *iamraymond* »_Nope. Even though the Koni Yellows are ~25% shorter than stock, they didn't bring the car down at all - and if it did, the difference is unnoticeable. 
I really don't think machining the mounts will make much difference either - can only take 0.25 to 0.5 inches off the mount. What I'm planning is to cut the spring seat off the top and mount the bag flat against the floor. It sucks because I really did not want to cut up the car and if I cut off the spring seat, I won't be able to just throw springs on the car again without welding a new nub.
The Mason-Tech rears use Universal Air House bags (not AH2). I'll probably sell the bags with the brackets and purchase new AH2 bags when I end up modifying the rear.


The struts aren't what holds the rear up. It's the brackets that stop the car from getting low. Had the same issue with my car, and did some trimming to get the car lower, but the 19's also helped a lot. 
I know it's a lot of money, but just get Bagyard rears. I'm pretty sure they will go lower than anything else, as that is usually the case. I'm just waiting for mine to get in so I can install all the new stuff. Once I get them on, you'll see the difference and you'll find a way to justify the price.


----------



## weakstyles. (May 29, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (iamraymond)*

I think your best bet is to cut into that arm where the bag sits. make it deeper. thats what I would do if I had a 225.


----------



## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (weakstyles.)*

Hmmm.. thats a good point. I could cut a hole into the lower arm and weld in something like this for the bag to sit in. It would allow me to easily install coil springs if needed and would actually still lower the rear of the car with the coils. Though I'm worried that the bag could rub against the inside of the cavity. 








Solo, I'll definitely have to see how much more drop the BagYards have before biting the bullet since they are quite expensive - $600 right? Its hard to justify when the AH2 are like $70


_Modified by iamraymond at 1:57 PM 4-15-2010_


----------



## weakstyles. (May 29, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (iamraymond)*

yea if you did do something like that just make the whole bigger to give the bag more room to expand when its filled with air.


----------



## SoloGLI (Jan 20, 2005)

*FV-QR*

I actually think they are $700, so they are quite expensive. But think about it... you had to spend $400 to buy the mason-tech's and you're gonna have to spend another couple hundred to buy another set, so at the end of the day, you'll still have spent around $500 or more (after selling the Mason-Tech stuff), PLUS you'll have to cut up the car. The little bit extra would be worth not having to cut up the car. 
But we are all in the same boat... gotta wait and see just how low the bagyards will get us.


----------



## Morio (Feb 16, 1999)

*Re: FV-QR (SoloGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SoloGLI* »_
But we are all in the same boat... gotta wait and see just how low the bagyards will get us.

so true http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Morio)*

When are the Bagyards coming in?


----------



## Morio (Feb 16, 1999)

*Re: FV-QR (iamraymond)*


_Quote, originally posted by *iamraymond* »_When are the Bagyards coming in?

they are in the US... Andrew is packaging up this week and shipping out as soon as he can.... I am hoping to get them by end of next week..... even though I am out of town next weekend


----------



## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Morio)*

Awesome! I can't wait to see those rears in action.


----------



## Morio (Feb 16, 1999)

*Re: FV-QR (iamraymond)*

I am sure Solo will have his in before me...


----------



## SoloGLI (Jan 20, 2005)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Morio* »_I am sure Solo will have his in before me...










I hope so too


----------



## Mattionals (Mar 9, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (SoloGLI)*

I know mine are a couple weeks (2 maybe) away. Unfortunately my management is being delayed but no worries. I fully expect to see Morio's car done and Solo's rear bags in before I get mine.
Should be nice and clean though.


----------



## acetate909 (Jul 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (PDubbs20AE)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Morio (Feb 16, 1999)

*Re: FV-QR (acetate909)*

bump


----------



## omarquez510 (Apr 5, 2009)

iamraymond said:


> Hmmm.. thats a good point. I could cut a hole into the lower arm and weld in something like this for the bag to sit in. It would allow me to easily install coil springs if needed and would actually still lower the rear of the car with the coils. Though I'm worried that the bag could rub against the inside of the cavity.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Wouldnt cutting a hole in the arm make the arm weak and cause it to possibly collapse? 

Anyone know how wide a bag would be when filled?


----------



## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

*done work*


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## rjones1214 (Apr 24, 2009)

:thumbup: looks much better and that's the drop I would expect out of an air setup. 

I think the car looks/looked great with the stock wheels.


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## yostuhfoo (Apr 30, 2004)

what did you end up doing?


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

I outlined what I was going to do on page 3.


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## yostuhfoo (Apr 30, 2004)

so you ended up cutting off the nipple?


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

yup. welded a plate to the top (car floor) and drilled a hole through the control arm to run the air line. 
there's a blue R32 on here who did the same thing.


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## Morio (Feb 16, 1999)

WOW!! Detailed pics!!! and pics with wheels!!!


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## NickBroderick (Dec 28, 2009)

Yummmmmmmmm.


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## GoshGengstout (Oct 1, 2005)

Any updated detailed pics of the cut hole and welded plate? Or anyone on the bag yard rears have installed pics?


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

Sorry no pictures yet. The car is stored for the winter so I'll get some when I put the car on the hoist again.


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## SoloGLI (Jan 20, 2005)

GoshGengstout said:


> Any updated detailed pics of the cut hole and welded plate? Or anyone on the bag yard rears have installed pics?


Look for my thread in the TT forum. Plenty of pics of my car with Bagyard rears installed.


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## GoshGengstout (Oct 1, 2005)

Will do, Thanks


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## bklnstunt718 (May 30, 2007)

you is my twin now hehe


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

new pic with rear wheels mounted (225/40 Nankang NS2 on an 18x10 CCW Classic):










I'll take more photos when I wash the car


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## Teeboyo (Apr 26, 2010)

:heart:


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## Jetta11J (Feb 20, 2005)

cant wait to see some pull shots of this :thumbup:


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## Mike GoFast (Mar 6, 2006)

Wow, I am so happy the pictures in this thread are available on my work computer, you my friend just made my day.... 

awesome build, awesome detail, awesome car. Thank you


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

Heres a full car shot from this morning


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

Breakdown on the wheels:

-Original wheels were CCW Classics (Race version) in 18x10 et46 all around - Corvette C5 fitment
-Replaced the barrels of two wheels to make two 18x9 et34.
-Replaced the original zinc-plated grade 8 hardware with polished APR bolts. 
-Painted the barrels/windows black and polished the lips/faces
-Mounted Nankang NS2s 215/40 on the front and 225/40 on the rear.
-Installed 18mm and 20mm adapters to put the final offsets at et16f et26r.

I'm thinking of either a) spacing the rears out farther to tuck front/slight poke rear or b) getting a smaller adapter for the front to tuck all around. What do you guys think?


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## blue bags (Jul 1, 2009)

looks awesome man, as far as those options, id space the rears a little more


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## DoctorDoctor (Oct 18, 2006)

blue bags said:


> looks awesome man, as far as those options, id space the rears a little more


Agreed, I'd space the rears out.


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

Here's some updated pics with shaved bumpers and the rears spaced out a bit. I had the wheels more flush in the rear but I wasn't comfortable with the poke and I couldn't drive as low - so I milled the adapters to get the fitment like this:


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## [email protected] (Jan 26, 2006)

Looks good Raymond. :thumbup:


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

New plate, new pics.


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## LF_gottron (Jan 24, 2013)

looks awesome, do you know what fuse you ran your management/ compressor through?


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

From the battery, I ran a 40amp fuse through an in-line fuse holder and 4 gauge wire. 

I believe I also ran a 15amp fuse from the switched power to the valves.


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## LF_gottron (Jan 24, 2013)

What about the ignition one to the fuse box that turns it on when you start the car


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## iamraymond (Jan 22, 2004)

That's a 15amp.


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