# FAQ : Cylinder Head & Camshaft Removal + Re-Installation



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

Was sent this so I am sharing it with the community as this seems to be the most confusing topic when doing a 20V Rebuild.Thanks to whoever did it up









_Quote, originally posted by *CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL & INSTALLATION* »_
*CAUTION 
Cylinder head removal should not be attempted unless the engine is cold*. 
*1.8L Engine*
*1.* Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section. 
*2.* Remove or disconnect the following: 
* Front bumper 
*3.* Place the hood lock carrier into the service position. 
*4.* Turn the ignition switch to the *OFF* position. 
*5.* Remove or disconnect the following: 
* Negative battery cable 
* Accessory drive belt 
* Cooling fan 
*6.* Drain the engine coolant. 
*7.* Remove or disconnect the following: 
* Intake manifold 
* Accessory drive belts 
* Wastegate bypass regulator valve 
* Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) canister purge regulator valve 
* Power outage stage 
* Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor 
* Air cleaner housing 
* Engine Temperature Control (ETC) and the temperature II sensor harness connector 
* All connections from the cylinder head 
* Crankcase breather line 
* Oil supply line at the cylinder head 
* Exhaust manifold heat shield 
* Turbocharger from the exhaust manifold 
* Coolant hose to the heat exchanger at the rear of the cylinder head 
* Upper timing belt cover 
*8.* Turn the crankshaft, in the direction of rotation (clockwise), until the No. 1 cylinder is at TDC. 
*9.* Using Torx® wrench T45, loosen the timing belt tensioner. 
*10.* Push down on the tensioner and remove the belt from the camshaft gear. 
*11.* Remove or disconnect the following: 
* Torx® bolt and swing the tensioner assembly bracket forward 
* Valve cover








* Cylinder head bolts, in sequence, as shown 
* Cylinder head 
*12.* Clean the gasket mating surfaces. 
*13.* Clean and dry out the cylinder head bolt holes. 
*To install: 
NOTE: Always replace the cylinder head bolts, self-locking nuts, bolts, gaskets and O-rings. 
NOTE: Refer to Section 1 of this manual for the cylinder head torque sequence illustration. The illustration is located after the Torque Specification Chart. *

*14.* Before installing the cylinder head, set the crankshaft and camshaft to TDC for the No. 1 cylinder. 
*15.* Loosen the turbocharger support bracket to reduce the likelihood of any tension while installing the cylinder head. 
*16.* Install or connect the following: 
* Head gasket with the part number visible from the intake side 
* Cylinder head 
* New cylinder head bolts, tighten by hand 
*17.* Tighten the new cylinder head bolts in sequence in 2 steps: 
*Step 1:* 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm) 
*Step 2:* additional 1⁄2 (180 degree) turn 
*NOTE: It is not necessary to retighten the cylinder head bolts. *
*18.* Install or connect the following: 
* Turbocharger to the exhaust manifold using new gaskets and the bolts coated with Hot Bolt Paste G 052 112 A3. Tighten the bolts to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm). 
* Turbo support bracket. Tighten the bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (40 Nm). 
* Valve cover 
* Timing belt 
* Accessory drive belts 
* Exhaust manifold heat shield 
* Oil supply lines to the cylinder head. Tighten the retaining straps to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm). 
* Crankcase breather 
* Any other items removed during disassembly 
* Coolant temperature sensors 
* Air cleaner housing 
*19.* Fill the engine with coolant and bleed, if necessary. 
*20.* Connect the negative battery cable. 
*21.* Fully close all power windows to stop, operate all window switches for at least 1 second in the close direction to activate the one touch opening/closing function. 
*22.* Check the oil level before starting the engine and top off, as necessary. 
*23.* Set the clock to the correct time. 
*NOTE: DTCs are stored when harness connectors are detached.* 
*24.* Clear the fault codes, as necessary. 
*25.* Install or connect the following: 
* Hood lock carrier assembly 
* Front bumper 
*26.* Adjust the headlights. 



_Quote, originally posted by *CAMSHAFT REMOVAL & INSTALLATION* »_
*1.8L Engine*
*Fig. 1: Exploded view of the camshaft mounting and related components — 1.8L engine *








*1.* Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section. 
*2.* Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 
*3.* Disconnect the negative battery cable. 
*4.* Place the lock carrier into the service position. 
*5.* Remove or disconnect the following: 
* Accessory drive belts 
* Engine covers 
* Timing belt upper cover 
*6.* Turn the crankshaft, in the direction of rotation (clockwise), until the No. 1 cylinder is at Top Dead Center (TDC). 
*7.* Remove or disconnect the following: 
* Timing belt tensioner by loosening it using Torx® wrench T45 
* Belt from the camshaft gear by pushing the tensioner downward 
* Torx® bolt and swing the tensioner assembly bracket forward 
* Valve cover 
* Cam gear retaining bolt by loosening it using retainer tool 3036 
* Camshaft gear 
* Camshaft Position (CMP) housing sensor and shutter wheel 
* Hydraulic chain tensioner by securing it with bracket tensioner tool 3366 
*Fig. 2: Do not overtighten the chain tensioner tool 3366, it can be damaged — 1.8L*








*8.* Verify that the camshafts are at TDC for the No. 1 cylinder. Both camshaft markings must align with arrows on the bearing caps. 
*9.* Clean the drive chain and the cam chain gears opposite both arrows on the bearing caps. Matchmark the installed position using paint. 
*NOTE: The distance between the 2 arrows/paint marks is equivalent to 16 drive chain rollers and the notch on the exhaust camshaft is slightly offset inward toward the drive chain roller*. 
*Fig. 3: To ensure proper installation, matchmark the chain-to-camshaft position — 1.8L*








*Fig. 4: Camshaft bearing cap identification — 1.8L engine*








*10.* Remove or disconnect the following: 
* Bearing caps No. 3 and 5 from the intake and exhaust camshafts 
* Double bearing cap 
* Both bearing caps from the chain gears on the intake and exhaust camshafts 
* Hydraulic chain tensioner retaining bolts 
* Intake and exhaust manifold bearing caps No. 2 and 4 by loosening them in an alternating and diagonal sequence 
* Camshafts with the hydraulic chain tensioner 
*To install:* 
*Fig. 5: To ensure a proper seal, be sure to apply sealant to the hatched area — 1.8L*








*11.* Replace the rubber/metal chain tensioner gasket and apply sealant to the hatched area, as shown. 
*12.* Install or connect the following: 
* Drive chain on the camshaft 
*NOTE: If installing the old chain, align the paint marks with the camshaft marks. If installing a new chain, the distance between the notches A and B on the camshafts must equal the distance between 16 drive chain rollers. *
* Hydraulic chain tensioner by sliding it between the drive chain 
* Camshafts with the chain tensioner lubricated with engine oil into the cylinder head 
*NOTE: When installing the bearing caps, verify the markings on the caps are readable from the intake side of the cylinder head*. 
* Intake and exhaust camshafts bearing caps No. 2 and 4. Tighten them in an alternating diagonal sequence to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm). 
* Both the intake and exhaust camshafts bearing caps on the chain sprockets. Tighten the bolts to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm). 
*13.* Verify the correct positions of the camshafts. 
*14.* Remove the bracket tensioner. 
*15.* Install or connect the following: 
* Cylinder head-to-double bearing cap mating surface by lightly coating it with sealant. Tighten the remaining bearing caps to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm). 
* Camshaft gear. Tighten the bolt to 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm). 
* CMP shutter wheel and housing cover 
* Valve cover 
*16.* Align the camshaft gear and the vibration damper with the TDC markings. 
*17.* Install or connect the following: 
* Timing belt 
* Accessory drive belts and the engine cover 
* Lock carrier 
* Negative battery cable 
*18.* Fully close all power windows to stop, operate all window switches for at least 1 second in the close direction to activate the one-touch opening/closing function 
*CAUTION 
After installing the lifters or the camshaft(s), the engine must NOT be started for at least 30 minutes. Otherwise the valves could strike the pistons. Rotate the engine by hand, at least 2 revolutions, to ensure that the valves do not strike the pistons. *
*19.* Check the oil level before starting the engine. 
*20.* Set the clock to the correct time. 
*21.* Enter the radio security code. 
*NOTE: DTCs may be stored when harness connectors are detached*. 
*22.* Read the DTCs and clear the fault codes. 
*23.* Adjust the headlights. 


Enjoy


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## 16plus4v (May 4, 2006)

*Re: FAQ : Cylinder Head & Camshaft Removal + Re-Installation (Wizard-of-OD)*

Someone stop this man, he's out of control


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## dubm0nkey (Oct 30, 2007)

*Re: FAQ : Cylinder Head & Camshaft Removal + Re-Installation (Wizard-of-OD)*

Outstanding tech article! I've encountered a 1.8L that needs the head removed, I've taken all of the apropreiate hardware and connections off, but the head still acts as if its bolted down.







The engine has 181,000 miles. Could we be missing any bolts or brakets in addition to the ones listed? Any help would be greatful.


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## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: FAQ : Cylinder Head & Camshaft Removal + Re-Installation (dubm0nkey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubm0nkey* »_Outstanding tech article! I've encountered a 1.8L that needs the head removed, I've taken all of the apropreiate hardware and connections off, but the head still acts as if its bolted down.







The engine has 181,000 miles. Could we be missing any bolts or brakets in addition to the ones listed? Any help would be greatful.









Its just "stuck" thats all.Once you remove the 10 head bolts and the connecting manifold to downpipe bolts the head should come right off.Just give it a good nudge.


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## wreckedmyteg (Mar 23, 2006)

*Re: FAQ : Cylinder Head & Camshaft Removal + Re-Installation (Wizard-of-OD)*

*CAUTION 
After installing the lifters or the camshaft(s), the engine must NOT be started for at least 30 minutes. Otherwise the valves could strike the pistons. Rotate the engine by hand, at least 2 revolutions, to ensure that the valves do not strike the pistons. *
I'm curious what the 30 minutes is for?


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## bobqzzi (Sep 24, 2003)

*Re: FAQ : Cylinder Head & Camshaft Removal + Re-Installation (wreckedmyteg)*


_Quote, originally posted by *wreckedmyteg* »_*CAUTION 
After installing the lifters or the camshaft(s), the engine must NOT be started for at least 30 minutes. Otherwise the valves could strike the pistons. Rotate the engine by hand, at least 2 revolutions, to ensure that the valves do not strike the pistons. *
I'm curious what the 30 minutes is for?


It is for the hydraulic lifters to bleed down. When new, they can hold the valves open. While the warning is worthwhile, it is kind of moot for a 1.8T since it would be damn near impossible to finish assembly and start the car in 30 minutes.


_Modified by bobqzzi at 4:19 PM 10-30-2007_


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## NORSK (Feb 26, 2006)

*Re: FAQ : Cylinder Head & Camshaft Removal + Re-Installation (bobqzzi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bobqzzi* »_
It is for the hydraulic lifters to bleed down. When new, tehy can hold the valves open. While the warning is worthwhile, it is kind of moot for a 1.8T since it would be damn near impossible to finish assembly and start eh car in 30 minutes.

I thought you could do that in 5minutes Bob BLINDFOLDED


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## turbo2205 (May 1, 2005)

*Re: FAQ : Cylinder Head & Camshaft Removal + Re-Installation (Wizard-of-OD)*

i think this might come in handy for some work i'm gonna be doing on my own 1.8 pretty soon; thanks!


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

MUCH OBLIGED!!


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## infinityman (Sep 3, 2004)

*Re: (Wizard-of-OD)*

we need a tech article for swapping rods...

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## WhiteG60 (Aug 20, 2001)

*Re: (infinityman)*

Anyone have a picture of their cams installed from the back of the gears? I need to see the keyways. Awesome Cat Cams have no marks on them for timing.


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## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (WhiteG60)*

Intake Cam


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## WhiteG60 (Aug 20, 2001)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Intake Cam

















thank you donato! Exhaust cam i can line up on the valve cover.


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## Chad4061 (Sep 16, 2006)

*Re: (WhiteG60)*

Great Writeup...Luckly I had a bentley to help me along the way for some replacement camshaft seals and tensioner gasket. Bump for some good info!!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (WhiteG60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WhiteG60* »_
thank you donato! Exhaust cam i can line up on the valve cover.

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 03GTIK04 (Dec 2, 2007)

good write up...now if someone can do one with the timing belt just as good...with pics as well


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## prom king (Aug 14, 2004)

*Re: (03GTIK04)*

Couple of questions I'm in the process's of switching an ATW head with an AEB
Just drilled the hole for the SAI.
Now, I need to change the Cam window and sprocket from the AEB head to the original ATW correct?
And does anyone have a pic? or the Cam sensor window im supossed to use because I can't tell which one is which now ;-/


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## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (97jazzgti)*









That's a 4 window VCT wheel. If you're using a VCT ECU, you want the VCT wheel. The wheel is bolted to the end of the intake camshaft, behind the position sensor.


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## prom king (Aug 14, 2004)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Thank you!
Also, I just drilled the hole for the SAI, should I find a channel or something when I drill? Or it's just me drilling a hole?
Converting AEB head to work with an ATW block


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## Giannos (May 20, 2008)

*Re: (97jazzgti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *97jazzgti* »_Thank you!
Also, I just drilled the hole for the SAI, should I find a channel or something when I drill? Or it's just me drilling a hole?
Converting AEB head to work with an ATW block

You should be very careful when doing this. You could drill into an adjacent water channel. Very small clearances there. I almost ruined an AEB head this way. Just measure and measure and measure first and before you drill measure again. Or take it to a machine shop


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## hornetracer8 (Jan 2, 2008)

*Re: FAQ : Cylinder Head & Camshaft Removal + Re-Installation (Issam Abed)*

What is the tool needed to take the 10 head bolts out? Looks like a torx, But it will need to be longer. Is it a special tool? Can I make something work?


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## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: FAQ : Cylinder Head & Camshaft Removal + Re-Installation (hornetracer8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hornetracer8* »_What is the tool needed to take the 10 head bolts out? Looks like a torx, But it will need to be longer. Is it a special tool? Can I make something work?

It's called a polydrive. You can use an allen for removal if you have one long enough, but need the right tool for reinstallation.


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## hornetracer8 (Jan 2, 2008)

*Re: FAQ : Cylinder Head & Camshaft Removal + Re-Installation ([email protected])*

Is there a part number or a certain size? Where can i get one?


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## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: FAQ : Cylinder Head & Camshaft Removal + Re-Installation (hornetracer8)*

Metalnerd (about 3/4 down the page)


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## hornetracer8 (Jan 2, 2008)

*Re: FAQ : Cylinder Head & Camshaft Removal + Re-Installation ([email protected])*

Thank you!


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## Narbie @ CTS Turbo (Oct 3, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Part MN3452 - Head Bolt Bit for 1.8T ® and 2.0 Gas Engines


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## mk2_eurosport (Jul 28, 2009)

*Re: FAQ : Cylinder Head & Camshaft Removal + Re-Installation (Issam Abed)*

Hi... Great post...
hey forgive me to be suck ignorant, but what its the size need it of the Torx T45 to remove the head bolts i'm kind of new in VW mechanic, i have like a year with my car and i always pay to get it fixed when it goes bad, but now i want to do it by myself, i have a problem with a valve in the cylinder 1 thats why im trying to remove the cylinder head...
my car its a 1991 VW JETTA GLI 2.0 16V TURBO.
probably you can help me too, to tell me exactly what to do... 
thanx alot...
cheers*


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## IAmTheNacho (Oct 26, 2003)

*Re: FAQ : Cylinder Head & Camshaft Removal + Re-Installation (mk2_eurosport)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mk2_eurosport* »_Hi... Great post...
hey forgive me to be suck ignorant, but what its the size need it of the Torx T45 to remove the head bolts i'm kind of new in VW mechanic, i have like a year with my car and i always pay to get it fixed when it goes bad, but now i want to do it by myself, i have a problem with a valve in the cylinder 1 thats why im trying to remove the cylinder head...
my car its a 1991 VW JETTA GLI 2.0 16V TURBO.
probably you can help me too, to tell me exactly what to do... 
thanx alot...
cheers*








Its not a torques bit its called a pollydrive, Crappy pic but if you look it has square splines and 6 points. I belive the allen wrench is an 8 or 10MM to remove head bolts.


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## mk2_eurosport (Jul 28, 2009)

*Re: FAQ : Cylinder Head & Camshaft Removal + Re-Installation (IAmTheNacho)*

Hey thanx...
but i think that probably doesn't work, because the number of points that have the head bolts they are 12points, i knew that the one that i need its 12 points, but i dont know the size, i think they came in, 12mm, 14mm and 18mm, or something like that, and i wanna know wich one will work on my car...
1991 VW JETTA GLI 16V 2.0 MK2


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## mk2_eurosport (Jul 28, 2009)

*Re: FAQ : Cylinder Head & Camshaft Removal + Re-Installation (Issam Abed)*

Hey... i already get the right tool
was the Torch 12 points, 12mm...
but now i have a question...
when i remove the cylinder head, to put it back i need to change the head gaskets







, cuz they weren't too used, or if i need to, i need to put 2 or 3 to low the compression for the turbo, can i put 1 new and the other 2 used, cuz right now im not very good at money, and i need to save all money that i can, i dont want to have my car wrecked again soon...


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## halchka99 (Apr 18, 2002)

*FV-QR*

get a new one and just run 1


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## BoostinBejan (Apr 13, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (halchka99)*

and stay away from victor reinz, run an Erling or OEM. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## inivid (Aug 25, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (BoostinBejan)*

Awesome thread! Can't believe I missed the initial post, when it was made.


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## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (BoostinBejan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BoostinBejan* »_and stay away from victor reinz, run an Erling or OEM. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Running Victor Reinz gaskets for 8+ years now no issues


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## BoostinBejan (Apr 13, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Issam Abed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Issam Abed* »_
Running Victor Reinz gaskets for 8+ years now no issues









I had a victor reinz head gasket leak from the back, properly torqued and I decked both my head and block. Once I switched to an erling, I never had a problem again. There are many others that have had this problem with VR.


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## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (BoostinBejan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BoostinBejan* »_
I had a victor reinz head gasket leak from the back, properly torqued and I decked both my head and block. Once I switched to an erling, I never had a problem again. There are many others that have had this problem with VR. 

It is a head gasket? If it is a new OEM replacement part and it is leaking then I am going to go out on a limb here and say it was fault at the installer.
Victor Reinz has been around long before some of you even knew what a MKIV was.
Nothing wrong with there gaskets








(and yes I use Elring as well)


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## BoostinBejan (Apr 13, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Issam Abed)*

This is a good thread and I'm not going to argue, but I know multiple people have have had problems with victor reinz. Why chance it?


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## abuthemagician (Sep 25, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (BoostinBejan)*

Is tool 3366 required to reset the timing on my camshafts? I have a camshaft that is a tooth off and need to fix it. The engine is an AUG.


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

*Re: FAQ : Cylinder Head & Camshaft Removal + Re-Installation (IAmTheNacho)*

iamthenach
where did you get the polydrive tool? is it a #10...are there different sizes?


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## J-tec (May 20, 2006)

*Re: FAQ : Cylinder Head & Camshaft Removal + Re-Installation (derekb727)*

Bookmarking this thread from the past for sure, great info in here


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## stv1der (Feb 3, 2009)

*Re: FAQ : Cylinder Head & Camshaft Removal + Re-Installation (Issam Abed)*

i need this... http://****************.com/smile/emlove.gif


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## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (BoostinBejan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BoostinBejan* »_
I had a victor reinz head gasket leak from the back, properly torqued and I decked both my head and block. Once I switched to an erling, I never had a problem again. There are many others that have had this problem with VR. 

same here, leaked oil from the passanger side rear. i swapped to elring and all was good. now that the head was off again, i had a spare OEM headgasket, hopefully its good


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## stv1der (Feb 3, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (VW1990CORRADO)*

damn i just bought a victor kit... i swear to god if that sh!t leaks on me...







IDK how you guys took off your cylinder heads all nonchalant... 
i have all my bolts catagorized and im still confused on where a few things go- tomorrow im taking off my DP to release my turbo after i drain the oil and coolant. i hope once i have everything off the cylinder head, it just comes off smoothly or else i give up







its getting messy-


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## .Mad Hatter. (Oct 18, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (stv1der)*

great thread http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## IAmTheNacho (Oct 26, 2003)

*Re: FAQ : Cylinder Head & Camshaft Removal + Re-Installation (derekb727)*


_Quote, originally posted by *derekb727* »_iamthenach
where did you get the polydrive tool? is it a #10...are there different sizes?
HAHA Sorry for the late response. I bought it off a snapon truck. I think you can get it at some tool supply stores online though. I know there are 10mm and 11mm head studs. I am not sure what tool to take off the 11mm stud requires. The 10mm are smaller port head bolts the 11mm are the larger port head bolts FYI.


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## toplessvw (Jul 31, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (BoostinBejan)*

*NOTE: If installing the old chain, align the paint marks with the camshaft marks. If installing a new chain, the distance between the notches A and B on the camshafts must equal the distance between 16 drive chain rollers. 
* Hydraulic chain tensioner by sliding it between the drive chain 
* Camshafts with the chain tensioner lubricated with engine oil into the cylinder head *
I recieved my head dis-assebled and the chain was not marked, am I screwed or can I use the 16 drive train roller method to put the old chain back on?


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## turbo2205 (May 1, 2005)

just make sure there are 16 rollers between the cams and youll be good
also note that the 1st roller (starting from the exhaust cam) needs to be right behind the arrow on the cam cap, not directly in line with the arrow on the cam cap


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

IAmTheNacho said:


> _Quote, originally posted by *derekb727* »_iamthenachwhere did you get the polydrive tool? is it a #10...are there different sizes?
> 
> 
> HAHA Sorry for the late response. I bought it off a snapon truck. I think you can get it at some tool supply stores online though. I know there are 10mm and 11mm head studs. I am not sure what tool to take off the 11mm stud requires. The 10mm are smaller port head bolts the 11mm are the larger port head bolts FYI.



Back from the dead baby!!!


I have a question regarding the 10mm small port head bolts and the 11mm large port head bolts.... 



Hopefully I did not miss this somewhere on here LOL.


When switching from an AWP, or any small port head for that matter, to an AEB are you supposed to use 10mm replacement bolts? I'm assuming you because it's the threading on the 058 blocks... Can someone please clarify this?


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## kel.draftingservices (Nov 22, 2009)

hey, good read. lots of info.

i am wondering, well, i posted this on the audi b5 threads already

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-replacement&p=67252233&posted=1#post67252233

will there be issues when replaceing the head assembly? from atw to aeb but still retaining all cams chains of the aeb? before i actually pay for the AEB head i just wanna make sure. thanks a lot.

and another thing? do you have torque chart for the head bolts? 

thanks


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## KRRZ350 (Feb 3, 2010)

I had no issues using an 8mm allen instead of the polydrive for removing AND installing, though I'll admit I was nervous as hell since the bolts were very easy to remove, the polydrive really was designed to be used with an allen or polydrive.. 

We actually cut up a long 8mm allen, in combination with a 3/8's drive 8mm deep socket (my deep 8mm had more meat than my shallow) and an *IMPACT* 3/8 to 1/2 inch adapter.


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## Rac_337 (Sep 24, 2004)

this should be added to the faq


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## zimm0who0net (Jun 9, 2010)

Is anyone else having trouble viewing the pictures in this FAQ?


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## neo_tt (Jun 13, 2009)

help needed,camshafts removed from the head builder and now i am trying to reinstall them but i can get with any way the correct position is there any special method to get them correctly on the arrows with the 16 rollers, if i have 16 rollers i can't get the camshafts on the arrows, if i get correct the 16rollers i can't get the inlet cam correctly on the arrow!

while the tesioner is out i have to count 16rollers first ? i am working on the car too many days without any result 
thanks


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## zimm0who0net (Jun 9, 2010)

It's a bit confusing, but you should start counting at 1. 1 should be the pin in the chain that's on the exhaust side that's directly pointed to by the arrow on the bearing cap (and directly above the notch in the exhaust camshaft). now count pins in the chain till you get to 16. At this point yous should be a little bit past the arrow on the intake bearing cap and a little bit past the notch in the intake camshaft. The reason you're a little bit past is because on the intake side the pin/arrow actually align with a tooth in the gear whereas on the exhaust side they align between teeth (i.e. directly on the pin in the chain)

The strange part (for me at least) was starting at 1 rather than 0, and the fact that the intake side didn't really align with a pin.

Hope this helps...


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## neo_tt (Jun 13, 2009)

i think there is no way to use the old chain with out any marks , is that right? if i don't have marks on it i have to use a new one?


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## zimm0who0net (Jun 9, 2010)

You shouldn't need a new chain unless the old one was damaged for some reason which is unlikely.


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## neo_tt (Jun 13, 2009)

yes but how can i use my old chain without any marking on it? i can't get it correct with the 16rollers, is there any special way to do it ? please give me any ides for that


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## zimm0who0net (Jun 9, 2010)

Here's a link to some images of my chain: 
http://imgur.com/a/huh6s#dRVmP 

Might be a bit difficult to see exactly what you want there, but it should help. Note that you can click on the "View Full Image" under image options and get the full resolution image and zoom to your heart's content...


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## neo_tt (Jun 13, 2009)

thanks a lot, this is very helpful but is exactly what i can't get with my cams and chain! with this position your mark on the valve cover its correct right? if you have and a photo with the cams on the first cylinder it will help me 
thanks


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## turbo2205 (May 1, 2005)

neo_tt said:


> thanks a lot, this is very helpful but is exactly what i can't get with my cams and chain!


x2! ~1yr ago, I tried at LEAST 10x trying to get the mark on the intake cam lined up as in his pics, but I couldn't get it perfectly lined up. I'm wondering if there's a lil trick to it as well.


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## zimm0who0net (Jun 9, 2010)

It should line up. Not sure why it's not for you. Do you have a picture?

Also, make sure that the bottom part of the chain is taught and that any slack on the top is taken up by the tensioner. Is your tensioner or the tensioner guides broken perhaps? The guy at the engine shop told me that it's pretty common for the tensioner guides to get broken when you get valve - piston collisions..


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## turbo2205 (May 1, 2005)

Not exactly sure if you're referring to me or someone else, but I'll be trying to tackle this issue tomorrow and will have pics at that time. Haven't ever had any piston->valve contact though.

Didn't get to work on it today like I was planning. Will post pics when I do though.


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## turbo2205 (May 1, 2005)

for anyone that's had a lil trouble with resetting their intake cam with the tbelt and exhaust cam still in, here's what worked for me:

follow the bentley manual for removing the intake cam and tensioner. 
then remove the bearing cap on the exhaust cam closest to the tensioner.
lift the tensioner and intake cam out together to where the tensioner can rest on top of the head, which provided the rest of the slack in the chain to remove and/or reposition the intake cam easily.


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## stc111a (Mar 18, 2011)

*Great info!*

Really glad I found this site, have an 03 Passat - ready to take the head off after a timing belt failure. New to this, but figured I can't really break it at this point. I may appeal to you guys for help as I go, thanks in advance


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## Raycism (Nov 18, 2010)

*New valve busted.*

I had a timing belt failure. I bought all new valves and lifters. Had a performance shop take to old bent valves out and put the new ones in. When I put the rebuilt head on the engine and had the new timing belt on and everything at TDC I proceeded to turn the crank to make sure everything was working ok. Didn't even get 1/4 turn on the crank and one of my exhaust valves broke. The piston didn't connect with the valve. Does anyone have any ideas on why the valve busted? I now need to buy a new exhaust valve and start all over with the assembly. Just a little PO'd. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## dshortys43 (Apr 25, 2007)

if you are still looking for the tools i just got mine from ECS. Dealer wanted a arm and a leg for one.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_IV--1.8T/Search/Cylinder/ES1876781/
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_IV--1.8T/Search/Cylinder/ES1876780/


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## BSD (Jul 8, 2008)

*hm*

Just what I needed! Thanks for the post up!


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## woteg (Apr 7, 2009)

so im swapping my tensioner over to a new head
is it possible to take the cam caps off both cams and pull them out with the chain and tensioner and set it down into the new head?


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## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

woteg said:


> so im swapping my tensioner over to a new head
> is it possible to take the cam caps off both cams and pull them out with the chain and tensioner and set it down into the new head?


Yes
Do it all the time. Get a cable tie and TIE the chain to the camshaft gear on both the intake and exhaust cam. You will need 2 sets of hands to do this properly though if this is your first time.
Obviously do not mix up the camshaft caps.:thumbup:


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## Jscore741 (Dec 10, 2008)

*Am I screwed if Im missing one bearing cap*

Okay so heres the deal, I had my head decked its all rebuilt with all new valves and its seems I'm missing one cam bearing cap on the intake side, what can I do about this ? I cant get 4 new ones ?


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## Jscore741 (Dec 10, 2008)

*bump*

Please help!


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Added to the FAQ


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## MikeParkerVW88 (Sep 18, 2010)

*Cylinder settings for install*

Hey, I am a little confused on exactly how my cylinders should be set as far as position before I install my new cylinder head. Any help?????


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## xxsur3shotxx (Sep 24, 2009)

MikeParkerVW88 said:


> Hey, I am a little confused on exactly how my cylinders should be set as far as position before I install my new cylinder head. Any help?????


cylinder #1 @ TDC

also position the cams in the head for cyl. 1 TDC


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Useful link to add to this thread:

Youtube series on rebuilding the 1.8t engine

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPYIUylUW9I


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## Mushasho! (Sep 10, 2003)

groggory said:


> Useful link to add to this thread:
> 
> Youtube series on rebuilding the 1.8t engine
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPYIUylUW9I


 Says Video is not available... I just wanna confirm that AWW & AWP heads are identical as most references I've found states are AEB vs AWD/AWW/AWP... my situation is AWP in my 2004 and wanna swap in an AWW... sounds like it's PnP and the compression differences are probably handled by the piston not by head variance (decked from the OEM?)


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## IAmTheNacho (Oct 26, 2003)

Your good to go. AWW just like AWP.


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## Mushasho! (Sep 10, 2003)

IAmTheNacho said:


> Your good to go. AWW just like AWP.


 So that compression variance is in the piston not on the head height?...

Sent from my NexusHD2 using Tapatalk


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## rgz27 (Feb 26, 2011)

*Timing*

wus up fellas, 

so i have a small issue i went ahead and removed the cylinder head out of my 1.8t because the timing belt broke. I happened to bent all the valves in the process so i removed the cylinder head but when i went to remove the camshafts i did not make any markings on the chain. Would there be a way to get the timing set correctly without any markings? or how do i go about it? any advise?


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Use a silver Sharpie - put a dot on a chainlink, count back *15* links (makes 16 links total), put another dot. Voila, instant timing marks :thumbup:


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## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

silly question, like the block where you have to rotate cyl 1 twice for it to reach TDC is the head the same way? I am pretty sure I set mine to it when I pulled it but it has been partially taken apart and just want to make sure.


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

weenerdog3443 said:


> silly question, like the block where you have to rotate cyl 1 twice for it to reach TDC is the head the same way? I am pretty sure I set mine to it when I pulled it but it has been partially taken apart and just want to make sure.


 2 rotations of the crank = 1 rotation of the cam gear. When the cam gear rotates one full revolution back to the TDC mark, it's TDC.


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## STOICH (Jun 21, 2010)

weenerdog: Rotations of the crank in relation to the head have nothing to do with TDC. It might be easier if you don't think in that frame of mind (cycles) when it comes to timing the head to the block. 

If cylinder #1 is at the top of its travel, you're at TDC. Then just have the head/cam sprocket set to the mark on the VC.


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## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

T-Boy said:


> 2 rotations of the crank = 1 rotation of the cam gear. When the cam gear rotates one full revolution back to the TDC mark, it's TDC.





STOICH said:


> weenerdog: Rotations of the crank in relation to the head have nothing to do with TDC. It might be easier if you don't think in that frame of mind (cycles) when it comes to timing the head to the block.
> 
> If cylinder #1 is at the top of its travel, you're at TDC. Then just have the head/cam sprocket set to the mark on the VC.


 so pretty much as long as the mark on the cam lines up with the mark on the cover and I have the 16 rollers crank by hand to double check clearances and should be good to roll


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## STOICH (Jun 21, 2010)

If you're block is already at TDC, then yes, you're good to go once the head is ready to go back on.


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## mk4love95 (Nov 20, 2012)

Does the engine have to be out of the car or can it be in it because I don't really see how you can get to the bolts that hold the turbo to the manifold when it is still in the car.


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## xxsur3shotxx (Sep 24, 2009)

mk4love95 said:


> Does the engine have to be out of the car or can it be in it because I don't really see how you can get to the bolts that hold the turbo to the manifold when it is still in the car.


lol. No, the engine does not have to be out of the car. You can reach them, I don't even think I needed a swivel for those bolts.


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## mk4love95 (Nov 20, 2012)

Alright thanks.


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## G2Performance (Jun 4, 2007)

*FAQ : Cylinder Head & Camshaft Removal + Re-Installation*

Just pulled my cams with the chain and worked pretty slick as a unit. I have to replace a few guides because of bent valves. Is it best to drive them out from the top?


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## troywould (Nov 28, 2012)

*big job*

So me and my dad are going to change my timing belt an head in my gti we have a shop but was wondering if anyone has any advise as to how long it takes an any pointers on how to take everything apart safely. i don't wont to ruin anything 
Thanks to any advise this is the first time ive worked on my gtis engine.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

troywould said:


> So me and my dad are going to change my timing belt an head in my gti we have a shop but was wondering if anyone has any advise as to how long it takes an any pointers on how to take everything apart safely. i don't wont to ruin anything
> Thanks to any advise this is the first time ive worked on my gtis engine.


Did you trash the head? Why is the head coming off?


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## Cryser (Sep 9, 2009)

troywould said:


> So me and my dad are going to change my timing belt an head in my gti we have a shop but was wondering if anyone has any advise as to how long it takes an any pointers on how to take everything apart safely. i don't wont to ruin anything
> Thanks to any advise this is the first time ive worked on my gtis engine.


when I swapped to my AEB head, it took my friend and I about 3 hours to do everything from stripping the head off the car swapping over the cams form the AWD head to AEB head, and re installing everything. During that time also did a manual tensioner swap as well as a few other things as I was installing a Vbanded GT3071r kit on the car at the same time.

This was with the car on jack stands and my first time doing a head swap on any engine. It's all pretty straight forward.


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## jjcsnlynn (Mar 9, 2008)

*Head Removal Tool*

What size tool is used to take off the head bolts. My T-50 seems to have too much play in it. 
Also, How do you get the water outlet off the back of the head? I can't find any bolts to it.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

jjcsnlynn said:


> What size tool is used to take off the head bolts. My T-50 seems to have too much play in it.
> Also, How do you get the water outlet off the back of the head? I can't find any bolts to it.


 Special polydrive tool. 

There's a link to it in the FAQ


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## Rumandbass (Jul 8, 2013)

Is there a way we can update the pictures in the original guide? I think the links are broken now.


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## wikdslo (Mar 13, 2005)

Per: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5601798-ARP-head-main-studs-torque-sequence

Uninstall: 









Install:


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