# big turbo stock block



## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

as the title states i see people saying that our motors will only handle in the neighbor hood of 310tq.

yet i just saw a dyno from a 02 gti running a gt3071r at 24psi stock block equal lenthing mani pump gas making 375whp and 333 tq at the wheels

max is above that pushing like 35psi. and countless others are doing the same.


i am looking at the cts 50trim kit with the coating. be running 91 pump or running with w/m and eaither uni bt software or myestro(sp) with a mafless program. if myestro ill runn a switchable tune between 91 and 100. or maybe 91 and e85.


was also looking at the 225 kit for my car as it comes with a stainless dp and mid pipe. besie the intercooler pipeing being different what other difference would their be? cts told me a 225 kit would not work on my 180q. when i asked them to explain they told me the dp and intercooler pipes are differanct. when i mailed back and said barring the intercooler pipe since their both quatroo wouldnt everything else work.... to date they have not replied to that question...


to me switching to a 225 intake mani isnt a huge deal. but baring that anyone have some insite as to why it wont work? and more one the countless people running over 300 whp a wtq.. thanks just looking for more info on this


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

It's your motor, roll the dice if you want. The tube manifold adds a slight bit of lag that will move the torque spike slightly higher in the rpms, which may help the engine live longer. You could add a progressive boost controller to ramp boost up as rpms climb, make well over 300 wtq, and not kill the stock rods, but you eventually get greedy and turn the boost up and have it spike lower and lower, and boom! It's all in how much discipline you have. 

As for the turbo kits, the intake manifold and piping that come with the kit to connect to the particular manifold is what is different. If you change intake manifolds, you can do whatever you want piping wise, with or without their piping.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

1fast2liter said:


> max is above that pushing like 35psi. and countless others are doing the same.



Max has aftermarket forged rods.....


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Ah yes I forgot he ran rods. But their are countless others that run say the 3076r at 22-24 PSI with no problems. We're does that 50trim that cts sell the most efficient at I was thinking running no more then 20psi till I got rods

Sent from my SCH-R950 using Tapatalk 2


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## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

Like 20V said, you're just rolling the dice. Through the experience/pain/$$$ of hundreds of people before you, the 1.8T scene has figured out that you need rods for a reliable car pushing more than about 300TQ, so stop wasting our time looking for a way to rationalize doing the wrong thing. Just build the car _right_, and you won't have to build it again. Rods are like $500 and a few hours of your time to install.


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

why post if you have nothing constructive to add. i asked more then one question here. and since when was it only a couple of hours to install rods.. id like to know how your doing it in a couple of hours. and agin i asked how they were getting away with it. i would like to run a bt. would i like it to last yes. but in the same sence if i did bend a rod would be a good reason to upgrade.


again anyone know were this 50trim realy shines or most efficent? i


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

I would def take their advice I would not recommend not getting rods my 2 cents.
People in here will definitely put u in the right direction but please listen .
I just spent over $20,000 on a build and didn't listen and take Max and others that 
Serious and blew my motor don't go down the same road I did :facepalm:


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

Just to let u know I did run a gt2871r atp eliminator kit for a while with stock rods ,w/m 
At 27psi and made 290whp and was fine :thumbup:


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## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

1fast2liter said:


> why post if you have nothing constructive to add . . .



I posted the most constructive advice you can hope to get. Just because some of us know better than you, don't think we're just talking $hit.

Okay, maybe not a couple of hours to install rods, but you can easily pull the head and do the rods in an evening. And with the added benefit of honing your walls, re-ringing the pistons, and new bearings, your bottom end is essentially new for your time investment.


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

jbrehm you got me their. i thought the motor had to be removed to install rods????? so esentially remove the head and oil pan and you can get it done? i may look into that.. 


01ttgt28 i thought the eliminator kits wernt that much better then the ko4s? i know you can do a whole kit for like the 2000 range... but will myestro and uni bt files even support it?


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

1fast2liter said:


> 01ttgt28 i thought the eliminator kits wernt that much better then the ko4s? i know you can do a whole kit for like the 2000 range... but will myestro and uni bt files even support it?


I ran 550cc injectors with revo don't know anything about myestro just giving u some idears what I have run with no Problems . it was a little lagy but def a lot better than a ko4 hands down and u could just bolt it up 
If u never plan on doing rods .I put down 290awhp and I think around 280 tq I have to find my dyno sheet .
Again this was the atp eliminator kit that bolts up to factory manifold and I was using w/m and 27psi


http://www.unitronic-chipped.com/ecu-tuning/Audi-TT-18L-Turbo-2000-180

http://products.revotechnik.com/products/softwareProduct.aspx?pvID=790


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