# Window Motor (regulator) Failure - Lower Door Trim Strip Corrosion



## Gobuster (May 19, 2005)

*Window problem*

I was away from the Phaeton for 2 weeks and managed to let the battery run down to totally dead (left Radar detector on). Started her up on the secondary battery and everything seemed fine, but, a few days later, I had occasion to put down the drivers window - no joy. Tried the passengers window - again no joy. The rear windows were fine. When I try to operate the window I hear a short sound like the window is starting to open, but nothing happens and the glass does not move. 
Because it is so unlikely that both front windows would fail simultaneously, I suspect a controller may need to be reset. A search of the forum did not bring up anything related to my problem and I'm wondering if anyone has had prior experience. Is there any way to trouble shoot this without a VAG COM?
Rob


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Window problem (Gobuster)*

Hi Rob:
I agree with your hypothesis that it is very unlikely that there has been a failure of two components at the same time. The two front windows have nothing in common other than the fact that the switches are on the same control panel on the driver door.
What I suggest you try is this:
*1)* Start the car - let it run for a few minutes (this to ensure that bus voltage is normal - it allows a few minutes for the battery to recharge).
*2)* Lift and hold the window switch. I know that the window is up already, but just lift and hold the switch to ensure that it is "fully up" - or, that the car knows it is fully up.
*3)* Now press the window switch fully down and hold it fully depressed.
*4)* If the window goes down, put it through one additional up/down cycle while holding the window switch fully up - fully down for the entire duration of travel.
When the car loses its adaptation settings as a result of a power failure, the express up and express down feature of the windows will no longer work, but the 'manual' up and down (i.e. switch fully up or fully down) function should still work.
If that doesn't solve the problem, I think you will have to take the car to the VW dealer and have them investigate things further. While you are there, mention to the VW dealer that you are seeing distortion in the small screen between the speedometer and odometer, and ask them to carry out the software update of your instrument cluster controller that is mandated by TB 90-05-04. I had a look at a diagnostic scan from your car that we did at the Alabama GTG, and I note that you have instrument cluster software 0517 - or, at least, that was the version you had installed at the Alabama GTG. It should be updated to 0521, and the software flash that TB 90-05-04 mandates will get it updated for you.
This is a mandatory update in the rest of the world, but in North America, you have to mention that you are having Y24 screen distortion in order to get it. See this post for more information: TB: Distortion in the Display Unit in the Instrument Cluster (MFI, or Y24).
Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Window problem (Gobuster)*

*PS:* If no luck getting the window to go down as described above, perhaps try lowering the windows either with the key blade in the driver door lock, or by pressing and holding the unlock button on the remote control. It is most likely that only one of the two methods will be operative on your car - depends on whether or not we enabled window control via radio transmission from the key fob at the GTG or not.
My rationale for suggesting this is that it will rule out (or prove) any problems with the window button electronics in the car.
Michael


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## Kcmover (Jul 20, 2005)

*Re: Window problem (PanEuropean)*

Your luck. One day last fall my window went down and would not go up. Fortunatly my dealer fixed it two days later but I had to drive it there in the rain.


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## Gobuster (May 19, 2005)

*Window woes*

With the heat down here, I rarely open my windows except to pull out tickets from those dispensers you see at parking garages. Well, I had occasion to open the drivers window - it did not work! Tried the passenger window - same result. Both rear windows work perfectly. I suspected a fuse, but went through the whole list and could not find one for the windows in either fuse locations. So, took the car in to the dealer this morning and have been informed that it needs two new motors and regulators to fix the problem. This sounds unlikely to me, both fronts failing at the same time? I don't know how the system works but suspect a controller may be involved. Anyone out there have a similar problem? I'm not too keen on having both doors pulled apart unless really needed.
R.


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## chrisj428 (Feb 26, 2005)

*Re: Window woes (Gobuster)*

Rob,
I would be very surprised to find simultaneous motor failures on both front windows. 
Are/were there any fault codes stored?


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## Gobuster (May 19, 2005)

*Re: Window woes (chrisj428)*

I don't know if there were fault codes, I'll call and check. Did mention that I suspected a controller but am not sure how they diagnosed the problem. I questioned the service writer who said she was positively sure it needed replacement motors. I've usually had great service but with simultaneous failures am thinking "maybe not motors" and am questioning their conclusions.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Window woes (Gobuster)*

Hi Rob:
I would question their conclusions as well. Two simultaneous failures of identical parts on either side of the car is highly improbable.
In general, you want to try and avoid door disassembly of a Phaeton if possible, because it is a finikity, highly detailed task, and unless the technician has either done it before or he/she is a real perfectionist who sweats the details, you will wind up with rattles.
What kind of 'indications' do you get when you attempt to lower the windows? Do you hear any sound from either of the front door motors? Have you tried various methods of lowering the window - by this I mean either lowering all the windows at the same time with the key blade in the driver door lock, and the lock cylinder held toward the open position, or, pressing and holding the unlock button on the key fob to open all windows by remote radio control (one or the other of these methods will work, but not both).
Also, try lowering the front passenger window with the button on the front passenger door, to rule out any problem with the switch assembly on the driver door.
Let us know what you find.
Michael


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## Gobuster (May 19, 2005)

*Re: Window woes (PanEuropean)*

Michael and Chris, thanks for the advice. The passenger switch does not lower the passenger window and holding the unlock button does not lower the front windows. When I try to open the drivers window with the switch I hear a very short pulse - like the window wants to start but does not. It is very brief and soft noise. 
Which controller is used for the windows - I wonder if re flashing it will cure the problem. 
Rob


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## chrisj428 (Feb 26, 2005)

*Re: Window woes (Gobuster)*

Rob,
If I remember correctly, the request is processed by the Comfort/Control module, which then sends a signal to the slave module in the appropriate door. 
The other thing I would recommend is monitoring the Measured Value Blocks for said main/slave controller whist operating the window switch. This may offer some information as to how far the signal is going and what is happening at each stage of the game.


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## dzier (Jun 19, 2004)

*Re: Window woes (Gobuster)*

Well, this happened to me on one of my Audis. I did not believe it so got a second opinion in CHicago. Same conclusion. Replaced the motors and all was well.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Window woes (Gobuster)*

Hi Rob:
As Chris mentioned, windows are managed by controller 46, which is the central comfort controller. But, if other functions managed by that controller (rear windows, trunk, stuff like that) are working, then there is no reason to suspect the controller is not working well.
If you are hearing a noise at the window, that confirms that the switch is working. It is, of course, possible that the switch could be healthy even if you didn't hear a noise (e.g. with a totally dead motor), but the fact that you hear a noise rules out the switch as a possible culprit.
Also, the fact that you hear a noise rules out a blown fuse as a possible cause of the problem. If you are not hearing a noise from the other window (you didn't mention whether or not the pax side window made a noise), perhaps check the fuse for that window - there is a plain language fuse allocation chart in the owner manual, towards the back of book 3.2
Let us know how it progresses...
Michael
Geez, I don't know what to say... maybe two window motors did fail at once. I suppose stranger things have happened.


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## vipa (Nov 20, 2006)

*Re: Window woes (PanEuropean)*

I have a similar incident with my Phaeton front doors windows. Both front doors electric window regulators found damaged and renewed by VW service technicians.
*During the same visit all doors cover strips (located at door lower edge) were renewed. I have asked VW to investigate the rust marks on the car doors lower edge and it was found that the plastic trim embedded metal stiffener was corroded. It is a common failure on our area.*
*Postscript by Michael - this is where the discussion of lower door trim strips begins.*




_Modified by PanEuropean at 8:51 PM 9-2-2008_


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## W126C (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: Window woes (vipa)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vipa* »_all doors cover strips (located at door lower edge) were renewed. I have asked VW to investigate the rust marks on the car doors lower edge and it was found that the plastic trim embedded metal stiffener was corroded. It is a common failure on our area.

What?








Regards,
Brent


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## vipa (Nov 20, 2006)

*Re: Window woes (W126C)*

You can see these door strip items on ELSAWIN drawing N66 0172.
The strips embedded metal stiffener starts being corroded by rust (water and salt). On my car I saw the rust color on my doors lower edge trim. When taken out, the trims has been found corroded. During my stay at the service station I saw a Phaeton (V8) car with these strips pushed outside (2-3 mm) because of rust.
Best regards


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Window woes (vipa)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vipa* »_During the same visit all doors cover strips (located at door lower edge) were renewed. I have asked VW to investigate the rust marks on the car doors lower edge and it was found that the plastic trim embedded metal stiffener was corroded. It is a common failure on our area.


Viorel:
Thanks a lot for that information. Can you provide a more comprehensive description of exactly what that part on the door is - perhaps a part number, or a reference to a page number and item number within the ETKA parts catalog? That will enable me to look it up and post an illustration.
For the benefit of the rest of the Phaeton owners - the province of Quebec, and the island of Montreal in particular, are considered 'severe service' areas for corrosion because of the great amount of salt and liquid brine that is applied to the roads each year during the wintertime. I have seen a Phaeton from Montreal that is the same age and mileage as my Toronto based Phaeton... the Montreal car showed evidence of significant corrosion on some underbody parts, when I checked the same parts on my car there was no evidence of any corrosion at all. So, I think we are dealing with a regional issue here, not a fleet issue.
Michael


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## Gobuster (May 19, 2005)

*Re: Window woes (PanEuropean)*

Got my car back on Saturday morning. After in depth checking, both front door window regulators were proved bad, causing motor failure. The failures may not have been simultaneous, it was possible they went at different times but I only discovered the problem when the drivers side stopped working. 
The replacement appears well done - no evidence of intrusion in the doors and no rattles! The windows work fine. When checking, the technician tested for power at the motors first. When he found that power was present, he suspected the regulator/motor was bad and this proved to be the case. 
Trust me, a Phaeton feels wonderful after driving a loaner Dodge Nitro for 3 days!
Thanks for all the help on this problem, I feel good that all the bases were covered and that nothing unnecessary was done. 
R.


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## vipa (Nov 20, 2006)

*Re: Window woes (PanEuropean)*

Renewed doors lower plastic strips part no.:
3D0854939BV7S
3D0854940BV7S
3D0854949V7S
3D0854950V7
Vipa


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## W126C (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: Window woes (vipa)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vipa* »_Renewed doors lower plastic strips part no.:
3D0854939BV7S
3D0854940BV7S
3D0854949V7S
3D0854950V7


Ok, could we get illustrations of these parts and where they fit to the car?







Bentley Repair CD doesn't show any thing for these part numbers.
Regards,
Brent


_Modified by W126C at 8:48 PM 6-19-2007_


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Window woes (W126C)*

Hi Brent:
My fault for the delay with the illustration - Vipa sent me the illustration about a week ago, but I have had very little broadband internet access for the last 10 days, thus I could not upload it.
Here is Vipa's illustration - I will post more detail shortly.
Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Window woes (PanEuropean)*

Here is a somewhat more detailed illustration of the parts that Vipa was speaking about.
I think it is important to emphasize that the urban areas of Québec (e.g. City of Montréal) are highly corrosive environments, and I don't think Vipa's experience with the corrosion of these lower strips is indicative of a design problem or a fleetwide problem. Nevertheless, the information is very useful.
Michael


*Parts Illustration - Lower Trim Strip on Cabin Doors (including fasteners)*


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Window woes (PanEuropean)*

Well, it seems that this 'lower door trim strip' corrosion issue is not limited to heavily salted roads (Québec) - my Phaeton is developing the same problem. Below are some photos.
If the lower edge of the trim strip at the bottom of the door does not match up flush with the rocker panel for the entire length of the strip, it is possible that the ferrous metal stiffner behind the plastic trim strip is corroding and swelling, thus pushing the strip away from the door.
If only one end of the trim strip does not match up flush with the rocker panel, it is more probable that you hooked a curb with the bottom of the door and deformed the trip strip. 
Michael
*Inspecting Trim Strips for Corrosion of the Internal Stiffener*


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## noahas (Dec 7, 2005)

I am going to pick up my car next week after having the regulator replaced for the fro drivers side window as well. This certainly seems to be a problem if there is this many people having issues with window regulators on cars no more than 3 years old!
In 20 years of owning cars, I have never had another need a window regulator replaced. Anyone else concerned about this many issues on the Phaeton windows?


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## W126C (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (noahas)*


_Quote, originally posted by *noahas* »_In 20 years of owning cars, I have never had another need a window regulator replaced. Anyone else concerned about this many issues on the Phaeton windows?

Hi Noah,
I don't miss the manual roll down windows. Two Mercedes Benz's (out of five), two BMW's, two Jetta's and one Phaeton, all had window regulator problems. Easy fix, minimal $. Things do wear out and fail. Seems to be a fact of life. The most common is the drivers door. (the most used)








Regards,
Brent


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## chrisj428 (Feb 26, 2005)

*Re: (noahas)*


_Quote, originally posted by *noahas* »_In 20 years of owning cars, I have never had another need a window regulator replaced. Anyone else concerned about this many issues on the Phaeton windows?

This must be your first VW, then.








Honestly, until the frequency of failure reaches percentages achieved by the Jetta, I'm not going to be concerned.


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## car_guy (Aug 19, 2005)

*Re: (noahas)*

In my shop today we are doing a Golf (right side!) regulator and a Subaru driver's window regulator. That's a lot for one day for us, but we usually see one or two a week and it doesn't seem any particular brand is worse than any other.


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## noahas (Dec 7, 2005)

*Re: (car_guy)*

Ok, maybe I have been lucky then (that and I don't use the window that often I guess...


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## V10Mike (Jan 24, 2007)

*Re: Window woes (PanEuropean)*

I've just had to have all four trim strips on my car replaced because of this problem. Covered under warranty, but obviously there is enough salt on the roads even in the South of England to cause corrosion.


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## V10NRB (Nov 30, 2006)

*Re: Window woes (V10Mike)*

Mike,
Do you have pictures of your corrosion, was it the same on all x4 doors. How did you notice the problem or was it the garage who saw the problem. Is this covered by a Technical bullitin.
Looks like we all need to check carefully whilst we are still in warranty.
cheers
Neil


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## V10Mike (Jan 24, 2007)

*Re: Window woes (V10NRB)*

I don't have any pictures, but I noticed it because, as PanEuropean said above, the bottom of the trim strips was protruding proud of the cill, all the way along. Some were worse than others, but all needed replacing. My dealer replaced them under warranty with no question.


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## V10NRB (Nov 30, 2006)

*Re: Window woes (V10Mike)*

Mike,
Maybe is this a LWB issue as I have checked all x4 doors on my SWB model and cannot see anything and my V10 is a late 2003 model.
Will need to catch this if I want it covered under my warranty.
cheers
Neil


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## Prince Ludwig (Mar 24, 2007)

I seem to have got the sill problems on both driver's side sills but those on the passenger side are fine. Service centre ahoy!


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## adamkodish (Mar 5, 2006)

*Re: (Prince Ludwig)*

Me too, but mine are blown on both front doors
Time to contact the dealer again









_Quote, originally posted by *Prince Ludwig* »_I seem to have got the sill problems on both driver's side sills but those on the passenger side are fine. Service centre ahoy!


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## V10NRB (Nov 30, 2006)

*Re: Window woes (V10Mike)*

Mike,
Maybe is this a LWB issue as I have checked all x4 doors on my SWB model and cannot see anything and my V10 is a late 2003 model.
Will need to catch this if I want it covered under my warranty.
cheers
Neil


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## trekguy (Aug 16, 2004)

*Re: Lower door trim woes (adamkodish)*

Once I get mine back from rear wheel bearing replacement tomarrow, I will take it for the lower door trim corrosion repair. Its really odd to have this severe corrosion at 73000 miles, as I don't drive the car all that much in the winter. Oh well, chalk it up to my kind of luck.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Lower door trim woes (trekguy)*

The corrosion is happening inside the plastic trim strip, not on the Phaeton itself. My guess is that water is somehow getting inside the trim strip and the metal stiffening rod inside the strip is corroding.
I had all four replaced on my Phaeton after I noticed that two of them were beginning to swell up and move away from the door (at the bottom). It was a very quick and easy task to do - only took about 20 minutes.
Here are a few tips that will make the job easier, and hopefully avoid problems:
*1) *When you order the replacement lower door trim strips, order two of the special retaining bolts for each trim strip. It is impossible to re-use the original bolts.
*2) *After you remove the two retaining bolts from the original trim strip (chances are that these small bolts will snap off during removal - don't worry about it), get a dead-blow hammer and gently tap the aft edge of the trim strip toward the front of the car. Once the trim strip has moved forward about 1 cm (1/3 of an inch), it will then fall out.
*3)* Thoroughly wash and wipe the lower portion of the door before installing the new trim strip. You want to make sure you have a clean, smooth surface before you put the new strip on.
*4)* Install the new trim strip (it will be self-evident how to do this), and gently tap it aft with the dead-blow hammer until the bolt-holes are lined up with the holes in the door. In practice, you look through the bolt-hole from the inside as you do this.
*5)* Do not tighten the two bolts more than what you can accomplish with your finger and thumb (only!) on the shaft of the screwdriver! The bolts are very thin and will snap if you apply any torque to them at all. They are only there to prevent the strip from sliding forward - they don't exist to pull the strip inward. I don't know what the torque spec is, but it is about the same amount of force that you use to wind your watch, and no more than that.
Here is a photo that shows where the corrosion happens - it's on the trim strip, not the car. The upper of the two strips is the new one.
Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Lower door trim woes (PanEuropean)*

This is a picture of the door after the original trim strip was removed. There was no corrosion on the door, but as you can see, the whole lower part of the door needs to be scrubbed with a brush and a bucket of hot soapy water. If you have an air compressor handy, you can use it to blow the water (and any other gunk) out when you are done, but this is not essential... it will drain by itself.
Use a hose to thoroughly wash out the track before you install the new trim strip.
Michael


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## car_guy (Aug 19, 2005)

*Re: Lower door trim woes (PanEuropean)*

Within the last month I've replaced the analogous strips on two Audis. The same situation: the metal within the strips was rusted and disintegrating, but the doors themselves were fine. 
Interestingly, the Audi OEM replacement strips contained no metal that I could see. Is this also the case with the Phaeton replacements?
Steven


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Lower door trim woes (car_guy)*

Hi Steven:
I don't know if the design of the strips has been changed. I am going to guess that VW probably specified some kind of change as soon as the problem became apparent - perhaps use of non-ferrous metal, or perhaps no metal at all, or perhaps better sealing, I don't know.
Michael


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## trekguy (Aug 16, 2004)

*Re: Lower door trim woes (PanEuropean)*

Michael
Thanks for your usual, exemplary, conclusive, thorough and timely response for the procedure to replace the door trim panels.
I will print them out and take them to the VW dealer Monday to have the car inspected.
Tony


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## Aristoteles (Sep 21, 2007)

*Re: Lower door trim woes (trekguy)*

I had a spot of a déjà vu here. Until we finally got to bit about the trim strip corrosion not involving the doors edges. But for just a moment my heart stopped.
You see, my other car is a Mercedes....


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Lower door trim woes (trekguy)*

Hi Tony:
Don't forget to mention to your VW dealer that they need to order two little bolts for each trim strip. It is impossible to re-use the original fasteners. It also might avoid aggravation, stress, and unwanted delays if they order one extra spare bolt. Ask me how I know this.








Michael


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## trekguy (Aug 16, 2004)

*Re: Lower door trim woes (PanEuropean)*

OK... how do you know to order two extra bolts?


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## Rowayton (May 29, 2004)

*Re: Lower door trim woes (trekguy)*

Is the repair/replacement of these lower door edge trim pieces covered under VW's rust trough warranty in either NA or ROW?


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Lower door trim woes (Rowayton)*

I doubt it, because nothing is 'rusting through'. In other words, I think the rust warranty is quite specific about perforation of the body shell. But, I have not checked the text of the warranty, which I believe is in the owner manual.
Michael


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## Spectral (Dec 21, 2005)

*Re: Lower door trim woes (Rowayton)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Rowayton* »_Is the repair/replacement of these lower door edge trim pieces covered under VW's rust trough warranty in either NA or ROW?


According to my SA-
Not covered under the corrosion warranty.
Not covered under the CPO warranty.
Covered under the original warranty.


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## jeffvh (Feb 13, 2008)

*Re: Lower door trim woes (Spectral)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Spectral* »_

According to my SA-
Not covered under the corrosion warranty.
Not covered under the CPO warranty.
Covered under the original warranty.
 OK, wow I hope this is so, they're bad on my 2005, discovered how fragile the little attachment bolts are







. recommend to everyone, don't attempt to loosen these little torx head screws until you're replacing the trim strips, they snap right off like they're made of plastic. 
Don't look close but my passenger door trim is temporarily attached with clear shipping tape. no duct tape for the Phaeton..


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Lower door trim woes (jeffvh)*

Hi Jeff:
It is actually obligatory to order new bolts when you order new trim strips - you order two bolts for each trim strip. The nature of these bolts is such that they were never intended to be used more than once.
Michael


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## Stinky999 (Sep 14, 2006)

*Re: Lower door trim woes (PanEuropean)*

Well, it looks like I need to replace these on my car, and I'm out of the factory warranty. On the upside, once again, this forum is a God send.
Question; How much are these trim strips?
Thanks.


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## udaymohan (Nov 8, 2007)

*Re: Lower door trim woes (Stinky999)*

I am in the same situation, the quote I got for replacing all four lower trims was approximately $600-700 CDN


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## car_guy (Aug 19, 2005)

*Re: Lower door trim woes (Stinky999)*

I had the lower trim strips replaced about three months ago at about 53K miles. They were covered by either my CPO warranty or my VW Driver's extended warranty, I don't know which. I hadn't realized how far out from the door they had been pushed by the corrosion until they were repaired. 
More recently I had the driver's door window regulator replaced after hearing a loud crack inside the door when I raised the window. Again this was covered.
All done very professionally and conveniently by Wellesley VW in Massachusetts. However, they don't give loaners out any more after 50K miles. That doesn't bother me as long as they keep giving me good service.
Steven


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## Stinky999 (Sep 14, 2006)

*Re: Lower door trim woes (car_guy)*

That's great that you got them covered under the warranty. Based on the language in the factory and my extended warranty, I think the dealer would have to claim that they broke or were manufactured wrong. I have to take it in for the 40K service soon. I'll see what the Autobarn says, but I'm betting that I'll end up paying for it.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Lower door trim woes (Stinky999)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Stinky999* »_I'll see what the Autobarn says, but I'm betting that I'll end up paying for it.

I actually suspect the opposite - the more experienced the VW dealer is, the greater the probability is that they have seen this before are are aware that it is a 'known issue'.
I think that when a dealer declines warranty coverage on an item, it is usually because they are uncertain whether or not VW of America will accept the claim from them. Considering the great experience that Autobarn has maintaining Phaetons, it is likely that they have seen this problem before.
Lastly, for the record, this issue only affects MY 2004 Phaetons. The design of the trim strip was changed once the problem became known, MY 2005 and onward were fitted with a trim strip that had a different type of reinforcing bar inside of it.
Michael


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## Stinky999 (Sep 14, 2006)

*Re: Lower door trim woes (PanEuropean)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PanEuropean* »_
I actually suspect the opposite - the more experienced the VW dealer is, the greater the probability is that they have seen this before are are aware that it is a 'known issue'.


Since my factory warranty has expired, the only hope I have is if VWOA agrees to cover it under the rust/perforation warranty. I have only 39K on it, but the 4 yrs were up in April. I know my extended warranty specifically excludes any rust damage. We'll see.


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## culverwood (May 20, 2005)

*Door trim at bottom of door*

Has this part been part of a recent restyle. I have hade to replace one due to catching it on the kerb as the car settled and then trying to close the door. However the replacement trim seems to be a smooth fit with the panel below while the other 3 seem to protrude evenly by 1/4 inch or so. 
It looks as if that trim has been part of a restyle.


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## remrem (Jan 20, 2008)

*Re: Door trim at bottom of door (culverwood)*

I'm not sure, but this thread may provide the answer to your question. 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...33797


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## culverwood (May 20, 2005)

*Re: Door trim at bottom of door (remrem)*

I had read that thread but it does not mention any change in design of the part (unless I missed it) which is what I was drawing attention to.


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## remrem (Jan 20, 2008)

*Re: Door trim at bottom of door (culverwood)*

Hi William,
Sorry, I thought perhaps that what you were describing was not in fact a design change, but actually the result of corrosion of the part, as many of us here have experienced. When I purchased my Phaeton, the lower door trim pieces seemed to stand away from the door, rather than fit smooth and flush. Then I discovered the aforementioned thread discussion and realized it was a corrosion issue. I replaced all 4 strips and now they fit flush and uniformly. Apparently your issue is something different. Unfortunately I am not aware of any design changes, but I'm no expert on the subject. Hopefully one of the other forum members is familiar with your issue and will post the answer here.
Best of luck,
Ron


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Door trim at bottom of door (culverwood)*

William, Ron:
My understanding is that the swelling of those lower door trim panels on the MY 2004 cars is caused by corrosion of a ferrous metal strip within the trim panel, and that VW had the supplier change the manufacturing process (or perhaps the material) to stop the problem.
The only evidence of such a change would be an increment in the suffix of the part number.
Michael


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## dollusa (Jul 23, 2009)

*Re: (adamkodish)*

The strips are in Germany only € 24,-
Joe


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## copernicus0001 (Nov 30, 2004)

*Re: Door trim at bottom of door (PanEuropean)*

Hi Michael,
I had the strips replaced on the Phaeton keep in Wisconsin in February of 2008. A few weeks ago I noticed that the new strips have rusted, swelled and require replacement. If the newly designed strips were installed on my vehicle, they too corrode and fail much too quickly. Even in light of the harsh winter conditions, the rate of failure is still quite unacceptable.
Douglas
P.S. For those of you unfamiliar with this part of the world, we salt our roads regularly during the winter in dealing with snow and ice. The salt substantially enhances corrosion rates.


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## Stinky999 (Sep 14, 2006)

*Re: Door trim at bottom of door (copernicus0001)*

Is it possible that the replacement parts used were actually the original design (old stock), which contained the metal strip? I had mine replaced last summer as well and they seem to be fairing OK after one (also harsh) Chicago winter.


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## testarossaguy (Aug 13, 2007)

*Re: Door trim at bottom of door (Stinky999)*

If this issue is specifically a model year 2004 problem, perhaps those of us with 04 cars should order the strips for an 05 car?


----------



## Stinky999 (Sep 14, 2006)

*Re: Door trim at bottom of door (Stinky999)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Stinky999* »_Is it possible that the replacement parts used were actually the original design (old stock), which contained the metal strip? I had mine replaced last summer as well and they seem to be fairing OK after one (also harsh) Chicago winter.

I think I need to rescind this statement








I washed the car this weekend and noticed that yes indeed, the trim strips are bowing out again. Makes me wonder if I too got MY 2004 strips put back on the car. Oh well.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Door trim at bottom of door (testarossaguy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *testarossaguy* »_If this issue is specifically a model year 2004 problem, perhaps those of us with 04 cars should order the strips for an 05 car?

To the best of my knowledge, the part number is the same for all vehicles (2003 to present). Likely the part number suffix has been incremented to reflect the change in material - from ferrous to non-ferrous metal.
I had all 4 of mine replaced in 2007, and they are looking just fine today, although I live in the warmest part of Canada (south end of Vancouver Island), where we don't even have snow, let alone salt on the roads. However - I have saltwater within half a mile on three sides of me.
Be aware that when you change these trim strips, you need to 'flush out' the recess in the door panel that they fit into, to get rid of corroded particles, etc. left over from the original trim strip. I did this with a hose and a soft-bristle brush.
If forum members have had lower door trim strips replaced recently (last few years) and are continuing to notice corrosion, my first guess is that the corrosion is not coming from the new trim strips, it is coming from particulate matter left over in the base of the door from the original trim strip. I think the solution would be to remove the trim strip, flush out the channel in the door very thoroughly, then refit the trim strip. VW is pretty good about pulling 'problem' parts from warehouse stock whenever a part number supercession (suffix supercession) is created due to an engineering problem with the predecessor part.
Be aware that the two fasteners used to affix each trim strip to the door are "one-time-only" fasteners - in other words, if you plan to remove the trim strips to investigate things, order 8 new fasteners from your local VW dealer first. They are unique fasteners that are used only on this particular part.
Michael


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## maverixz (Feb 16, 2005)

*Door Strip/Trim*

Good people, 
I noticed that the trim beneath one of my doors was starting to bulge out and I called the dealership to schedule a warranty replacement but the service advisor told me it was only done under the new car warranty so for the folks who have had theirs done, is that true?
I tried to find the threads where this was discussed but couldn't find any.


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## 357Sig (Oct 9, 2008)

*Re: Door Strip/Trim (maverixz)*

Here's the thread where that is discussed in detail.
Corrosion on Lower Edge of Doors (trim strip)
Bill
_I appended this post to the existing discussion about lower door trim strip replacement, so as to keep all the information in one place - Michael_
_Modified by 357Sig at 6:37 PM 9-22-2009_


_Modified by PanEuropean at 4:31 PM 10-22-2009_


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## maverixz (Feb 16, 2005)

*Re: Door Strip/Trim (357Sig)*


_Quote, originally posted by *357Sig* »_Here's the thread where that is discussed in detail.
Corrosion on Lower Edge of Doors (trim strip)
Bill


Thanks Bill. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## dlouie (Oct 31, 2008)

*Re: Door Strip/Trim (maverixz)*

On a side note for all. I think everyone should check their door protection strips (chrome and body colored molding) on all doors. On the front of each molding, there should be a special torx screw on the back side of the door. One of mine on the rear door apparently fell off and during a heat wave, the molding separated ever so slightly from the body. Because of the tight body gap tolerances, the separated molding chiseled between the front door molding and body, damaging both moldings but not the sheet metal thankfully. I replaced both myself at a total cost of about $300. I had another molding on the opposite side of the car replaced by the dealer previously under warranty and they neglected to install the screw and upon further inspection, I did a better job installing the molding ( the average person would not notice the imperfection though).
Damon


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## Bouviers (Jan 1, 2009)

*Re: Door Strip/Trim (maverixz)*

Kola,
The two rear door lower trim pieces on my MY 2004 were showing signs of warpage. Being out of factory warranty I simply ordered replacement pieces,
paid out of pocket and replaced them myself having read the excellent instructions found on this forum. Cost per piece was approx. $125.
Daniel


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## maverixz (Feb 16, 2005)

*Re: Door Strip/Trim (Bouviers)*

Daniel,
Thanks for the tip. With the help of my fave service advisor, I was able to get VW to pay for the replacement of the 2 rear ones that showed the most warping and I'm paying for the front ones at $175 each side installed. I was supposed to have dropped off the cr yesterday for the installations but forgot so I'd be dropping it off for them on Monday.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: Door Strip/Trim (maverixz)*

I was quoted $97.50 + tax for the part on my driver's door (the only one that appears to be a problem on mine). I also called a UK dealership, they knock them out for £45, which is about $30 less. I also had them price the variable intake kit for the V8, those were £150, which is a LOT less than they are in the US ($375).


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Door Strip/Trim (invisiblewave)*

*Archival Note:* - Two related corrosion discussions:
 TB 66-06-02 - Exterior Pillar Trim Corrosion on Phaeton Doors - discusses corrosion of the shiny black trim pieces that are installed fore and aft of the side windows.
Phaeton Door Corrosion - a discussion about corrosion on the actual doors of the car, as of this date (Nov 2009), this problem seems to be unique to the UK.
Michael


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## Zaphh (Jul 5, 2008)

*Re: Door Strip/Trim (PanEuropean)*

Hi,
I just checked out my lower door trims, to discover that some of the screws had snapped (cf. photo below).








Any idea on how to get the (probably corroded) broken part of the screw out ?
Is there any hope to be able to take the plastic piece with the dovetail apart ?
Thanks,
P.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Door Strip/Trim (Zaphh)*

*Archival Note: * See this post for additional discussion of window regulator failure and disassembly (excellent pictures!): Repair / Replacement of Window Regulator.
Michael


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## ct boy (Jun 18, 2010)

Hi

Is there any way somebody could re-post these pictures and diagrams. I have some issues in this department. Also, has anybody had luck ordering these parts for the replacement? How much do they cost?

Thanks


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## ct boy (Jun 18, 2010)

By the way, I was referring to replacing the lower door trim strip, not the window regulator--the regulator pictures are still up.


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## remrem (Jan 20, 2008)

Hi ct boy,

I don't know if/when the missing photos/diagrams will be accesible again, perhaps one of the moderators might know. However, in the meantime if you click on the link below to 1stvwparts.com, and then navigate around their site (OEM parts catalog - enter your year and model - select front door, exterior trim, lower molding) you will find the relevant diagrams, part #'s, along with the prices they charge. I'm sure there are other good sources as well, but they were the ones that sprang to mind. Good luck.

http://www.1stvwparts.com/index.html

Regards,
Ron M.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Window regulator failure*

About 6 weeks ago, my passenger side window mechanism failed. There was a horrible grinding sound when lowering it, and it wouldn't go up all the way. The dealer just called, the regulator (whatever that is) has failed and the repair has been approved under the RD Platinum warranty. MY2004 V8. Cost without warranty was quoted at ~$750.


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## wkoenning (Jan 9, 2008)

*Window Motor (regulator) Failure*

I don't know if anyone cares or is counting but I noticed the thread and thought that I should contribute that I have had to replace 2 window regulator motors already (out of warranty :banghead and I just noticed that my passenger rear window was operating really slowly yesterday and suspect to have to replace it soon as well... 

Wallace


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

It sounds as if they're a bit of a weak point. I suspect it's not coincidence that the first one to go on mine was on the door that is most often slammed.


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## Airedaleheaven (Aug 22, 2006)

*Lower Door Trim Strip Corrosion*

Hi Michael, 
As it turns out, autobody repair places say this corrosion problem is very common. There are no Phaeton dealers left in Montreal but an autobody repair shop says it is a common problem in the Phaeton aa well as A8s. The lowest estimate I've got for the replacement of the strips is $850. Are you aware of a recall or "secret warranty" that would provide some financial assistance for their replacement?


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## gekon111a (May 13, 2010)

Hi Michael,

What do you think about my case - window motors and Kessy works in all doors, but power latch has stopped working in rear doors.
Service has an opinion that motors with drivers for kessy and power latch shall be replaced (parts 3D0 959 703 F, 3D0 959 704 F).
System does not show errors in mentined above parts, so maybe exist another source of problems stopping power latch in rear doors?
Thank you in advance for your opinion.

Raf


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## remrem (Jan 20, 2008)

gekon111a said:


> Hi Michael,
> 
> What do you think about my case - window motors and Kessy works in all doors, but power latch has stopped working in rear doors.
> Service has an opinion that motors with drivers for kessy and power latch shall be replaced (parts 3D0 959 703 F, 3D0 959 704 F).
> ...


Hi Raf,

By "latch" do you mean the power door lock controls? If so, by any chance have you accidentally engaged the electric rear door child locks? I don't know if the ROW Phaetons have them, but the NAR Phaetons have two switches on the driver's door panel (nestled within the power window switch cluster) that deactivate the rear door power locks. Just a wild guess, but I thought I'd take a shot. Good luck.

Regards,
Ron M.


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## gekon111a (May 13, 2010)

remrem said:


> Hi Raf,
> 
> By "latch" do you mean the power door lock controls? If so, by any chance have you accidentally engaged the electric rear door child locks? I don't know if the ROW Phaetons have them, but the NAR Phaetons have two switches on the driver's door panel (nestled within the power window switch cluster) that deactivate the rear door power locks. Just a wild guess, but I thought I'd take a shot. Good luck.
> 
> ...


Dear Ron,

By "power latch" I understand electrical support for closing of the door when it is not completely closed. Germans are calling that option Tuer Zuziehhilfe, that in ETKA has English translation as Power Latch. 
In my case I can close all doors by key or by kessy, and only electrical support of closing rear doors has stopped to work (in right and left rear doors in different time).
I checked mentioned by you child locks, but it does not help in my case.

With best regards,

Raf


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

remrem said:


> ... by any chance have you accidentally engaged the electric rear door child locks?


Raf:

Investigate Ron's suggestion, I think it is the most probable cause of your problem. The function you are speaking about is the 'soft close' door function. The rear child door lock that Ron is referring to is controlled by buttons on the driver door. I think it is unlikely that both rear doors would 'fail' at the same time, hence, I think the first thing you should investigate is "finger trouble".

Michael


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## gekon111a (May 13, 2010)

PanEuropean said:


> Raf:
> 
> Investigate Ron's suggestion, I think it is the most probable cause of your problem. The function you are speaking about is the 'soft close' door function. The rear child door lock that Ron is referring to is controlled by buttons on the driver door. I think it is unlikely that both rear doors would 'fail' at the same time, hence, I think the first thing you should investigate is "finger trouble".
> 
> Michael


Dear Michael,

I have checked Ron's suggestion - child lock in driver doors, but it does not help.
In my case rear "soft close" has stoped firsts in rear right door and then in rear left door.
Do you have other tip what might cause the problem then driver of soft lock located in window motor (3DO 959703F - left rear and 3D0 959704F right rear door that are expensive)?
As I reported earlier - drivers are not listed as foulty in the scan of the car.

Thank you for your expertise in advance,

Raf


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## WillemBal (Nov 20, 2010)

PanEuropean said:


> The corrosion is happening inside the plastic trim strip, not on the Phaeton itself. My guess is that water is somehow getting inside the trim strip and the metal stiffening rod inside the strip is corroding.
> I had all four replaced on my Phaeton after I noticed that two of them were beginning to swell up and move away from the door (at the bottom). It was a very quick and easy task to do - only took about 20 minutes.
> Here are a few tips that will make the job easier, and hopefully avoid problems:
> *1) *When you order the replacement lower door trim strips, _order two of the special retaining bolts for each trim strip_. It is impossible to re-use the original bolts.
> *2) *After you remove the two retaining bolts ........Michael


Hello Michael or other forum member who has been coping with this problem. I recently noted that the lower trim strip of the driver door comes loose a little bit. It looks like the problem is caused by two broken screws. They are made of aluminium and probably corroded due to salty roads we have during winter time. Does someone on the forum knows the part number of these bolts? I couldn't find the part number in the suggested ETKA links. I noticed that this question was asked by other forum members a couple of times, but the answer is probably not given because most of the time the panels need replacement. In my case, I just need the bolts.

Thanks, Willem


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Hi Willem:

I don't know the part number of the bolts themselves, but I do know from experience that it is impossible to simply replace the two bolts if the distal ends of the bolts have broken off within the trim strip. I suppose it could be done if you have machine shop facilities and are willing to try drilling out and tapping the (very small) receptacles for the bolts in the trim strip - but, in my opinion, it is hopeless.

So, my suggestion to you, based on what I have had to do (as recently as last month) is that you order both a new lower trim strip for the affected door and the two bolts needed to hold it in place.

Michael


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## WillemBal (Nov 20, 2010)

Thanks, Michael,

I just contacted the dealer and they told me the part number. It now is 3D0-854-939-C-V7S for the basalt coloured version. They will order the part for me (59 Euro) along with the bolts and will install it when it is there for the annual road admittance check.

BTW, there seems to be a parallel thread with similar information, not listed in the FAQ:
Lower-Outside-Door-Trim

Regards,
Willem


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## steveskinr (Oct 31, 2007)

I agree with Michael. I changed 8 panels and I think the screw broke off during each removal. I ordered ten screws in case I was clumsy or over tightened but didn't need any of the extras.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Archival Note:* 

There is a related discussion that touches on this same subject (corrosion of components) at this link: Rust Proofing the Phaeton. 

Michael


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## gartracescort (Apr 4, 2010)

I wonder whether either wrapping some plumber's PTFE tape onto the bolt or coppaslip or both would make any difference?


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Archival Note: * Another discussion of this very same topic (Lower Door Trim Strip Corrosion) started up elsewhere in our forum. In order to keep all the information together in one place, I have locked up that newer discussion. For technical reasons, I can't merge it into this one.

But, there is some useful information at the other discussion, here is the link to it: Lower Outside Door Trim. Because that topic is now locked, you will have to come back here to post any follow-up comments. There is a URL at the end of that discussion that will bring you back here.

Michael


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## JockMacMad (May 18, 2011)

*Well a saga begins*

Well I flew home from rainy Norway to find after 5 days my car is in pieces at the dealer.

They are 'having some problems with VW' signing the claim off even though the dealer warranty guy approved it having previously had no problems.

So now I have a semi disassembled car in the shop  and am waiting for an update from my dealer as to what happens next.

If VW UK want to further reduce the number of Phaetons sold in the UK they are going about it the right way.

Anyone in the UK have the Luxury Car number I feel the need to release some ire.


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## stefanuk (Jul 7, 2010)

Yeah the number for V/W luxury division is on 0800 0322278, i only know as i'm in contact with them for door corrossion 

Stefan


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## JockMacMad (May 18, 2011)

stefanuk said:


> Yeah the number for V/W luxury division is on 0800 0322278, i only know as i'm in contact with them for door corrossion
> 
> Stefan


Touche.

I have an update but am saying nothing so I do not upset the VW Warranty gods


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Archival Note: * There is a discussion listed in the Phaeton Forum 'Table of Contents' (FAQ by Category) that addresses a slightly different corrosion problem, that being corrosion of the pillar trims beside the windows on the front and rear doors. That discussion can be found here: Exterior Pillar Trim Corrosion on Phaeton Doors.

Michael


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## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

Hi all,
I noticed sometime ago that the lower door trims of my 08 Phaeton did not fit flush, however as the four doors looked the same, I did not pay too much attention to it.
Yesterday I closely examined the car and I noticed that the gap between the drivers side trim and the lower portion of the door sill was so wide that I could slide a finger from one end of the door to the other. 
Therefore I decided to remove the lower door trim in order to find any signs of rust. Upon removal I noticed that the trim stiffener had rusted all along bulging the door trim so much, that the stiffener had almost detached from the plastic trim.
Early this morning I went to my local VW dealer and asked whether this issue would be covered by the anticorrosion guaranty. They did not know, so they took a couple of pictures of the rusted door trim in order to send them to the Spanish VW headquarters. So now it is a matter of wait and see.
I also asked for the price of the four door trims together with the eight aluminium bolts. They all are worth about 200euro VAT included. The part number is the same albeit the suffix B that now it is C.
Cheers.

Gabriel


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## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

Hi all,
Last Thursday I went to my local VW dealer to have the lower door trim strips replaced. VW finally accepted to have them replaced under guarantee.
Prior to removing the old strips I had a look at the new ones, and the only difference that I could spot were the nuts that are embeded at the inner ends of the strips, which rather than been manufacutured in brass, are now made from aluminium. Other than that they are identical.
So, I guess that if I keep the car, in three or four years I might end up replacing them again :banghead:
Cheers.

Gabriel


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## EnglishPhaeton (Dec 6, 2010)

Gabs08PHTN said:


> Hi all,
> Last Thursday I went to my local VW dealer to have the lower door trim strips replaced. VW finally accepted to have them replaced under guarantee.
> Prior to removing the old strips I had a look at the new ones, and the only difference that I could spot were the nuts that are embeded at the inner ends of the strips, which rather than been manufacutured in brass, are now made from aluminium. Other than that they are identical.
> So, I guess that if I keep the car, in three or four years I might end up replacing them again :banghead:
> ...


 Gabriel, 

Yup!!! 

I'm on my third set on one car and second on the other! 

See you again soon! 

Stu


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## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

Hi Stu,
Does the wheelbase make any difference...? 

Gabriel


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## Fahrspass (Nov 21, 2010)

Yikes, good timing with this thread being bumped back to the top. The front passenger trim on my 05 has the same corrosion problem (I guess they made some 2005s with the old trim construction), and the dealer wants to charge me $500 to replace the part. Anyone recently have any luck getting Fidelity or VW to pick up the cost in the US?


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## EnglishPhaeton (Dec 6, 2010)

Gabs08PHTN said:


> Hi Stu,
> Does the wheelbase make any difference...?
> 
> Gabriel


 Gabriel, 

yes for the rear doors only. 

Stu


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## Victor R (Jan 7, 2010)

> Anyone recently have any luck getting Fidelity or VW to pick up the cost in the US?


 No luck here and the car was "too old" (even though the miles were low) for VW to pick it up. 

Victor


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## Fahrspass (Nov 21, 2010)

The dealer found that it was actually much cheaper to install the one piece of replacement trim than the original $500 quote. I think the final cost was a bit over $200. 

Just for future reference, my car is coucou grey, and the replacement piece did not have to be painted, which was originally expected to add to the cost.

After the dealer installed the front passenger door replacement trim, it became clear to all of us that the other three pieces are also going fubar, so the dealer quoted me about $600 to replace the remaining three.

The Phaeton helpline also got back to me about the issue. They (re-)confirmed that the trim isn't covered under warranty (my dealer did the same with Fidelity), but without me making as much as a peep of fuss, VW did offer to provide some help towards any future service - which I will use towards the cost of replacing the remaining three trim pieces. 

I'll post an update once all four trim pieces have been replaced, but right now it looks like VW will provide me with a reasonable amount of assistance.


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## Fahrspass (Nov 21, 2010)

Grr, just as I felt comfortable with this trim debacle, I come across a similar thread on a German Phaeton forum. As someone pointed out a few years ago, the trim is much, much cheaper to replace in Germany than in the US: less than $200 for all four. 

Some of the later posts from last year also confirm that VW Germany also consistently decides against conducting goodwill trim replacements. 

Thread here (in German).

All that being said, I do believe a lot of competitor vehicles also suffer from some major design flaws that customers end up coughing up a lot of dough for. And many of those flaws extend well beyond cosmetic trim issues. So, as much as this trim corrosion is a hassle and a sign of bad faith on VW's part, I count my blessings that this is still a very well-designed car by luxury vehicle standards.


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## JockMacMad (May 18, 2011)

*Mine were done under warranty*

Mine were eventually done under warranty at Inchcape Twickenham. I believe 3 other folks from the list took theirs in and got them done in the couple of months after I posted here. So we got a result 

So much so when I got my VW Up! in April they remembered me as the guy who got all the Phaetons in


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## wouterjansen60 (Aug 27, 2011)

Today i received a call from my VW dealer, referring the corrosion on the lower black strips, all 4 doors need to be renewed under warranty.... I just expected the 4 lower door strips had to be replaced, however this outcome was even to me a big supprise. The car is from mid 2007.

Sounds as a great solution however this might take a while, before i have my Phaeton back. keep you updated what that means...

Wouter


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

My 4 doors took one week.

Chris


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## wouterjansen60 (Aug 27, 2011)

It is today confirmed, i will get 4 complete new doors under warranty. I am amazed by VW, they do take their responsiblity, also fair to mention. Not all parts are yet available, so we will see. I believe all Phaetons has this problems so check it out.


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## bruce001 (Aug 12, 2012)

*Lower door trim install*

I bought a replacement trim piece that goes on the bottom of the drivers door. Is this a DIY install or is it tricky like most procedures on this motorcar?

2004 W12

Bruce

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## pdejong0 (May 16, 2011)

bruce001 said:


> I bought a replacement trim piece that goes on the bottom of the drivers door. Is this a DIY install or is it tricky like most procedures on this motorcar?
> 
> 2004 W12
> 
> ...


The search button is your friend... go for it! 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...Door-Trim-Strip-Corrosion&highlight=door+trim


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

You might have difficulty if you have an old car and the updated trim piece. Mine's still sitting in the garage because I couldn't get it on. They appear to have modified it to make it a tighter fit.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

The FAQ is also a very good friend, complete illustrated instructions for replacing the lower door trim strips can be found in the FAQ.

Here's a link to the FAQ: Phaeton Forum 'Table of Contents' (FAQ by Category)

The FAQ can always be found at the top of page 1 of the forum topic list. You might also want to set a bookmark for it.

I realize that the FAQ is kind of long, however, there is a very fast and efficient way to search it: Bring up the FAQ page, then use the search feature of your _BROWSER_ (not the forum search feature, not Google search) to look for keywords in the FAQ. To get your browser to search within the currently displayed page, press *CONTROL *and *F *on your keyboard at the same time.

Michael


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## Sinco01 (Feb 10, 2013)

*Door Corrosion*

Hi gents 

Have all 4 doors of my 2006 V6 with corrosion problems. VW will replace under warranty but are asking for 25% contribution due to age of vehicle - which amounts to the best part of £800. Has anyone else been asked for a contribution? Additionally if it needs a new door I would be responsible for 25% of the cost (have asked them to confirm this but no response as yet). 

I think I will have to end up getting the work done but anyone from the UK any advice? I would want to get a guarantee on the work because it sounds like it could happen again


Cheers

Andy


----------



## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Andy,

The body shop that did my doors said they preferred fitting new door shells to repairing old ones because it was faster than adding on the repair work to the old shells. Maybe there's a slightly reduced labour charge to mitigate any new shell.

My door warranty job on this 2005 car had no contribution, but there was full VW history, a live VW service contract, no prior damage repairs and normal average mileage. Maybe that influenced their decision.

Have you asked VW Luxury help desk to research the decision with the relevant VW HQ department and talk you through their reasoning for asking for the contribution? A quick cheerful discussion might reveal some point that you can counter with evidence and get it reduced.

Chris


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## wouterjansen60 (Aug 27, 2011)

Sinco01 said:


> Hi gents
> 
> Have all 4 doors of my 2006 V6 with corrosion problems. VW will replace under warranty but are asking for 25% contribution due to age of vehicle - which amounts to the best part of £800. Has anyone else been asked for a contribution? Additionally if it needs a new door I would be responsible for 25% of the cost (have asked them to confirm this but no response as yet).
> 
> ...


Nice try by your local dealer, my dealer recently renewed 4 doors without asking any contribution. I did however payed 300 Euros to spray the bonnet at the same time, but that was on personal request.

Hope this helps,
Wouter


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## StevenFT (Jan 26, 2012)

invisiblewave said:


> You might have difficulty if you have an old car and the updated trim piece. Mine's still sitting in the garage because I couldn't get it on. They appear to have modified it to make it a tighter fit.


I've replaced two of the four trim pieces on my 2005 so far (I still need to do the rest). On the first attempt, neither piece would fit, even with gentle "persuasion." I discovered that there are 4 or so white, threaded, plastic set screws along the edge of the door that were interfering with the new trim piece. 

I tried to unscrew them enough to get the trim to fit but after years of sitting in place, they wouldn't move. In the end, I carefully trimmed them down until the piece fit. Sorry, no pictures at this point. I'll see if I can dig one up. If you're looking at the door with the trim removed, it's fairly obvious.

Cheers,
Steven


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

I'll take a look at that, cheers!


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

StevenFT said:


> ...I discovered that there are 4 or so white, threaded, plastic set screws along the edge of the door that were interfering with the new trim piece.


Hi Steven:

Those set screws are there to allow adjustment of the trim strip - in other words, to allow you to adjust the protrusion of the lower edge of the trim strip so that it is flush with the lower body channel.

I am going to guess that you could probably order replacement plastic set screws, thus allowing you to discard the original ones and install new ones, then adjust them so that the trim strip is perfectly flush with the bottom of the door aperture when the door is closed.

Michael


----------



## baby_cota (Jun 12, 2012)

Does anybody have any knowledge if VW Customer Care of America is handling this lower door trim issue if you get them involved? I contacted them last night and they said I need to take it to the dealer for diagnosis and that they would then contact the dealer. 

Just curious if they cover any part of this or hopefully all. 

Thanks, 

Bill


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## StevenFT (Jan 26, 2012)

Michael, 
Thanks for letting us know what the mystery set screws were for. Looks like I'll have to get out the dial indicator and laser level to make sure my new trim strips are installed in a "Phaeton-worthy" manner. 

Cheers, 
Steven


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## geoffrey_fake (Dec 2, 2011)

*Lower Door Trim Strip Corrosion*

After reading here I went in my car and I just tried to see if I could remove the lower door trim on the front left side, which was not looking good at all because of that rust.

Before I started taking the 2x aluminum screws, i used a product that removes the rust around screws, to do it, remove the rubber around that screw till you see it well, but don't remove all the rubber its not necessary, the spray the product around the head screw a few times and wait 5 minutes.
After with the screw driver, unscrew it very very slowly, one mm at the time, really slowly, be patient, its aluminum so you must do it without warming up the aluminum by forcing, or otherwise it breaks directly. Put a bit of spray is necessary, you will see in a picture the spray I talk about.
It works very well, remove both screws on in each end of the trim, then just move back the all trim and it moves for about a cm and you just pull it out.
I believe the trim inside was all glued from manufacture but with water and rust plus closing the door very often, the parts inside become loose, and the exterior plastic don't hold anymore in the metal plate inside and makes that waves. 
what I did, I clean up a bit the rust, please dont use water or oil or what ever otherwise the glue will not hold anywhere, once done take a tube of Patex glue, and fill up the inside, once done, protect the floor with something clean as paper, put that trim on, and then find some weights and put on it, the final result depends how good you do this last step.
leave it for one or 2 hours or more if you can, and if all was well done, it will look like new.
i don't do all this because of the money or costs or what ever, ist just because here all will be closed till Tuesday next week ( germany) and as I had the trim out, I just thought about doing that, I still waiting that the glue dry, still weights on it for the moment.
once I put it back in the door I make a final photo.
So here now the photos in order,

1st picture - the trim removed -









2nd Picture - one end of the trim where we see where the screw goes, its not water around its oil, you don't need to put that much around, only around the head the screw its sufficient.









3rd picture - one of the 2 Screws 









4th picture - the oil spray to remove rust and release the screws









5th picture - you see that the interior is all loose the very slim metal plates don't hold each other or hold to the interior plastic of the trim.









6th picture -all you see loose inside was all glued before, means was all attached, I clean up a bit and I will fill up with glue 









7th picture - fill up with glue ( I used Patex )

















I put now weights on it to keep it as closed as possible inside, and I let it dry for 1 or 2 hours. 

here one picture of the door without the trim.










I will put a picture with the Trim in the door to show the final result

if you buy this trims new, you have for less then 15 minutes to do all 4 doors, as you don't need to pay much attention to the screws, if they break, doesn't matter you have the new trims with the screws.

Please apologize my English writing and also my dirty car, but its snowing here today


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## baby_cota (Jun 12, 2012)

I just heard from VW Customer Care. My two rear door panel trim pieces were bowing. They sent an inspector to the dealership to inspect. VW is going to replace all four trim pieces and cover 80% of the cost. My final cost is $155 for all four new trim pieces with VW picking up the rest.

Just an FYI for everyone. My car has 58K miles on it so I'm not sure if they factored that in or not.

Bill


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Hi Bill:

Nice to hear that VW is picking up 80% of the cost. That is, I think, a pretty fair deal for a 9 year old car.

Michael


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## baby_cota (Jun 12, 2012)

Thanks Michael, and I completely agree with you. I didn't expect anything but thought why not give it a shot. I have a theory that VW might be a little more willing to help out because they are planning to reintroduce the Phaeton in North America in 2015 and want to keep the small built in current customer base happy.

But again that's just a theory.

Either way I have been VERY IMPRESSED with VW's attention to their customers. You won't find that with American car makers I'm sure.

Bill


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## Cantrellc123 (Aug 5, 2012)

Good morning Bill,

Did you have any type oy existing warranty during this process? Or was this good will on VWOA's part?

Thanks,
Cantrell 






baby_cota said:


> I just heard from VW Customer Care. My two rear door panel trim pieces were bowing. They sent an inspector to the dealership to inspect. VW is going to replace all four trim pieces and cover 80% of the cost. My final cost is $155 for all four new trim pieces with VW picking up the rest.
> 
> Just an FYI for everyone. My car has 58K miles on it so I'm not sure if they factored that in or not.
> 
> Bill


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## EurodriverMK3 (Apr 5, 2008)

Yes I'm interested in knowing what kind of coverage you had. I just noticed that both of my screws on the driver door trim were already broken. I am not sure if there is corrosion but I'd like to get mine changed anyway due to the broken screws and one door trim that may be corroded or just bent outwards. I will check tomorrow.



Jordan


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## zenmoused (Nov 6, 2008)

Just to add my 2 cents- my driver door lower moulding fell off on the highway recently. Not sure where- just got to my destination, looked down and part of my door was missing. The other three are bowing as well.. it's surprising that VW hasn't reached out to relatively small number of Phaeton drivers and proactively fixed this problem.

Brian


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## GeigerVW (Aug 15, 2012)

*Lower door trim pieces rusting, VW not willing to assist*

It was a long shot, but I contacted my dealer and they contacted VW to see about partially covering the cost of the lower door pieces that have rusted from the inside out. 

The dealer took the necessary pictures and sent them to VW for their review. VW replied that they would not cover any of the cost through warranty or good will for the following reasons: 
1. The trim is not covered as a rust-through body item (understandable) 
2. The car is a Canadian-spec car (news to me and not sure why that would matter) 
3. I am not the original owner (expected that response) 

Again, I did not expect them to offer much, but I wanted to pass on to everyone my experience to save you, your dealer and VW the time. 

Does anyone have the part number for all four trim pieces for my 2004? I will need to source them from somewhere. 

G


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

The one sitting by my desk which I was unable to fit has a part number of N 909 602 01. I bought it in the UK for about £49 if memory serves, it's for the driver's door. The design is modified from the old one, it looks more rust-resistant and it much more difficult to fit.


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## sidepick (Mar 11, 2010)

FYI...........I recently had the same exact experience with that part on the same door for the same MY (2004) and received the identical response through the dealer. 

The part number is very much appreciated. 

Richard


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## zoltan99 (Jul 22, 2013)

I am having the same problem with my driver's door. I'm thinking I'll replace that one and let the rest fail whenever, and replace those then. Is this a bad approach? I'd rather not spend the money for all four, but I will if it's a better course of action.


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## baby_cota (Jun 12, 2012)

I had the same problem with the lower trim on all four doors of my 04. Last fall I contacted VW directly. They sent a tech out to inspect because the dealer said if he removed them he'd have to replace them. 

VW split it with me 80/20 with them covering the 80%. I'm the second owner. My car had about 56,000 miles on it when I contacted them. Perhaps their different responses are mileage based? Not sure what kinda mileage your cars have. 

I like to contact VW directly so they can hear my voice telling them I'm not happy and would like something done and then let them contact the dealer. My thinking is that I'm looking out for my interest and sometimes the dealer my not be or may not think it's that important. That's why I always contact them directly. 

Bill


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## sidepick (Mar 11, 2010)

Bill 

I think I will follow your path and contact VW directly. Is there a special department anymore for Phaeton or just a general customer service contact number? 

Richard


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## baby_cota (Jun 12, 2012)

Richard I just contacted VW Customer Care. I also contacted them when one of my shocks blew and all four had to be replaced. I had to pay for the one that failed and they paid for the other three and the updated controller. 

May I ask how many miles you have? 

Bill


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## twgin (Apr 25, 2012)

FWIW, I am in the middle of refurbing one of these panels; it is by far the worst of the four on my recently purchased MY 2004 with 95K miles. 

The offending part in the assembly is (or was) a thin U shaped metal piece which almost totally corrodes away, leaving rust chips galore that cause the noticeable swelling of the panels. This piece, or the remains of it, can be cleaned out and the rest of the panel pieces (all of non rusting materials) disassembled and cleaned. 

The two difficult operations are 

1. finding a good adhesive and sufficient cleaning in order to put the assembly back together and have it stay stuck together, 

2. removing the remains of the two (aluminum ?) locating bolts which almost invariably break when removing the panel (there is a thread somewhere where a fellow actually managed to get a couple of these out without breaking them, but to duplicate this feat 100 % of the time is, IMO, an impossibility). 

I have found new locating bolts (not sure but the new ones appear to be stainless and perhaps not so prone to brittleness), the small threaded nylon set screws used to position the panel correctly, and various other bits and tools. Over the next few days I will glue everything together, retap the locating holes on the panel, and see if it fits back on the car. 

I am worried that the missing piece the panel will be thinner, but suspect that the nylon adjustment screws will take up this slack. 

If it works I'll try and document the procedure on another panel and post pics, part numbers, etc. Given the cost of 4 new panels, there might be a business in here somewhere !


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## StevenFT (Jan 26, 2012)

I have replaced all four of my trip strips with new parts from southernvwparts.com. They averaged $100 each, including shipping. Replace one a month and in 4 months you have all new trim pieces without a big hit to the checkbook. I've been very pleased with Southern VW's service and prices. 


Steven


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## StevenFT (Jan 26, 2012)

*Part Number for Retaining Screws*

After going through my toolbox, I found the part number for the screws that retain the trim strips. There are two screws per trim strip.

Part number:
N-909-602-01

Steven


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Oh, yeah, it's the same as the one I posted. I found it on the packet taped to the door strip that has the screws in it. There's another number stamped on the strip itself: 300 854 939


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## dovetaildoc (Jan 3, 2009)

*Doors replaced*

We have two W12's that had the bulging lower panels. I showed them to our service rep, who took pictures and contacted VW. VW replaced3 doors on one car and 2 on the other. Very nice of them to do so, but after the replacement, two of the door windows don't close on their own. They need to be helped. I contacted the body shop, and their answer was that the door regulators " are 11 years old and tired"  and that the new doors are "new and tight, maybe they'll loosen up" This seem right to you guys?

Mike


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Mike,

There have been several aluminium door replacements reported in the forum due to paint bubbles, but none of these had any problems afterwards with the fit or closure of glass, regardless of the age of the Phaetons. The carrosserie and doors are exceptionally rigid, few cars have a more solid design, so if the windows worked before they should continue to work after.

The bulging rubber lower trims are fixed by simple replacement, which would not in itself involve any work to the door paint other than cleaning. In Europe, VW will usually approve repaint or door replacement (or at least a substantial goodwill contribution) if bubbles are found in the paint. The work would be done to VW specs, and there would be no problem with fit lines.

It seems possible that the glass is not adjusted correctly and that the edge runners are not properly in place or need some dry lubrication. There is no history of weak lift motors, even in older Phaetons.

The regulator drive wire linkage can cause failure or a pulley on this wire can disintegrate, but the motors seem to have a good life span. There are a good selection of photos in this TOC thread:

*Repair / Replacement of Window Regulator*

Chris


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