# OK... Cant take it anymore! Hawk HPS



## VWGolfA4 (Apr 5, 2000)

I dont know about you guys, but these breaks squeak and squeal all the time!







I know they break better and all the reviews said very little noise if any. That is not true for me and Im not sure why. Pretty much everytime I hit the breaks, hard or soft its making noise. People in my house know when Im coming home because they hear me pull into the driveway. Plus its embarassing stopping at a light or stop sign. Everyone looks and is like WTF















Am I the only one?


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## Fluxburn64 (Apr 9, 2005)

*Re: OK... Cant take it anymore! Hawk HPS (VWGolfA4)*

Ever hear of crc brake quiet? What makes the noise is the caliper piston hitting the pad. Sounds like you didn't bed the pads either?


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## VWGolfA4 (Apr 5, 2000)

*Re: OK... Cant take it anymore! Hawk HPS (Fluxburn64)*

Can you please explain bed?
I had my brothers friend install them. He has a shop with a lift that just makes it easy. I wasnt aware I had to do anything special and neither did they...


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## T-Red Tex (Apr 19, 2006)

*Re: OK... Cant take it anymore! Hawk HPS (VWGolfA4)*

Whenever you replace pads you should usually replace or resurface the rotors. Once everything is installed you shoud "bed" the pads. I know Stoptech recommends 10 stops from 60mph to 10mph then a cooling period and then 10 more stops from 60mph to 10mph. 
I usually do 6-7 each. Also the backs of the pads and/or shims should have some sort of adhesive or lubricant to keep them from making noise when you hit the brakes. Hope this helps.
Check out the FAQ/DIY thread for more info.


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## VWGolfA4 (Apr 5, 2000)

*Re: OK... Cant take it anymore! Hawk HPS (T-Red Tex)*

It helps but what do I do now? Ive already had the breaks on for over 1k miles. They really just started doing this. I tried to break them in slow for the first 500 miles, but since then Ive had some spirited runs








It seems after one of those runs, haha, they started sqeaking more and more. Either harder stops or crawling to a stop...
Can I re-bed them?


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## djbrand1 (Sep 11, 2003)

*Re: OK... Cant take it anymore! Hawk HPS (VWGolfA4)*

You may have glazed the pads, from not properly bedding them in when new, then subjecting them to a lot of heat. The only way to cure glazed pads is to take them off and take some sand paper to them to get fresh pad material, be sure to wear some kind of breathing mask. Brake dust inhaled= http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


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## VWGolfA4 (Apr 5, 2000)

*Re: OK... Cant take it anymore! Hawk HPS (djbrand1)*

I'll give that a try. I thought it was a lot harder to do that with the better compound like Hawk HPS and the TT rotors.
This is my daily driver, Id hope with the larger rotors and better pads that I didnt glaze them over...







Everyone says its very rare to fade brakes on the street. I figured with this setup it would be even harder...


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## Soren (Oct 31, 2000)

*Re: OK... Cant take it anymore! Hawk HPS (VWGolfA4)*

Sanding and re-bedding may help you... I just switched from mintex red to HPS and they are dead silent. I did replace the rotors at the same time, though. My old powerdiscs' atom slots were completely GONE







I did have them on there for 5 years though.


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: OK... Cant take it anymore! Hawk HPS (Soren)*

Good suggestions above. Also try:
- high pressure garden hose aimed at the caliper area to dislodge any brake dust deposits
- brake quiet paste - put it between the pads and the caliper - its like red elmers glue, but when cured, turned into a rubbery substance which absorbs the vibrations you're hearing
- grind or file the edge of the pad material down so it looks like this \____/ instead of this |_____|
- clean and lube the caliper guide pins. If those seize up, you can get all sorts of craziness happening.


_Modified by phatvw at 4:01 PM 7-31-2007_


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## VWGolfA4 (Apr 5, 2000)

*Re: OK... Cant take it anymore! Hawk HPS (phatvw)*

Thank you. One reason I went with Hawk, I heard how quiet they were. Just an FYI, I also did rotors at the same time.


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## Fluxburn64 (Apr 9, 2005)

*Re: OK... Cant take it anymore! Hawk HPS (VWGolfA4)*

Sorry you had to learn the hard way; As far as I know, every brake pad has to be bedded with new rotors, and even if the directions say not too, it is standard practice to bed new pads and rotors.


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## gehr (Jan 28, 2004)

*Re: OK... Cant take it anymore! Hawk HPS (VWGolfA4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VWGolfA4* »_ 
Am I the only one?

Yes.....yes you are!








Good advise above, they are great pads!


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## VWGolfA4 (Apr 5, 2000)

*Re: OK... Cant take it anymore! Hawk HPS (gehr)*

ok Im sorta glad Im the only one. Means either they are caked with brake dust or something else. With the larger rotors, the fact I was on the street and with these better pads I doubt I glazed them over...
I will take a better look this week


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## spasticone (May 31, 2004)

great advice on beveling the edges. I always use a 3M type resurfacing wheal to remove any lip or glaze on my rotors when installing new pads. Roughing them up is ussually all it takes. If you don't have a surfacing kit just use some 80 grit (or so) paper and rough those rotors up a bit. If they have a lip, get them turned because that causes noise A LOT.


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## VWGolfA4 (Apr 5, 2000)

*Re: (spasticone)*

Thanks again for all the help. I washed the car this weekend and sprayed the brakes and that seemed to help. I will take a better look this coming weekend and really wash the brakes good. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Eg2Driver (Jul 9, 2007)

*Re: (VWGolfA4)*

you can't turn VW rotors, they are too thin.


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## djbrand1 (Sep 11, 2003)

*Re: (Eg2Driver)*

It not hard to glaze pads if they are new and not properly bedded in first, just an FYI


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## Jim_vr6 (Apr 11, 2007)

I've had Hawks on my vr6. They made noise till the end of their day. I'ts the pad itself and the composition of what it's made from! In my opinion, they are only good for track use. Buy yourself some Pbr ceramics, Pagid ,Ate, Jurid or any other good jobber pads and you will remember me!!!


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## Sketchykid (Aug 3, 2005)

*Re: (Jim_vr6)*

I had similar problems as well. Mine were bed in correctly, and very quiet, until I overcooked them at an autocross event. Now one of them makes noise. Not too bad though.


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## VWGolfA4 (Apr 5, 2000)

*Re: (Sketchykid)*

I almost feel the same way. They were fine, nice and quiet until I think I over cooked them. Since then they started to squeek. I washed them out and it seemed to stop for a little while. Then started to make the noise again.
I have to wait till my local shop opened again. I will have them check. I do not have a working jack and no tools where I live...


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## Vortex_Generator (Aug 2, 2007)

*Re: (Jim_vr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jim_vr6* »_I've had Hawks on my vr6. They made noise till the end of their day. I'ts the pad itself and the composition of what it's made from! In my opinion, they are only good for track use. Buy yourself some Pbr ceramics, Pagid ,Ate, Jurid or any other good jobber pads and you will remember me!!!

That means nothing. There are different compositions of pads meant for different uses.
HPS are fine for daily driving. Mine have never made a squeek. But I knew to grease the back of the pad, and bed them in properly.


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## ctuagent117 (Oct 4, 2005)

Mine hardly ever squeak,
i never greased, or did anything to my HPS, however, i religiously followed the isntructions on the back to the last word.


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## VWGolfA4 (Apr 5, 2000)

*Re: (ctuagent117)*

I didnt do anything special when I had them install on the rear. They never made any noise. I did the same with the fronts and they sqeal like a pig.


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## ctuagent117 (Oct 4, 2005)

did you bed them in or just drive? if you didn't bed them in i bet thats the problem. 
they had instructions, mine even had it in red, and read 'Read before driving.'


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## VWGolfA4 (Apr 5, 2000)

*Re: (ctuagent117)*

I didnt see anything like that at all. I dont remember if it was on the box or on the pad itself but there were no instructions at all. The box was opened it wasnt sealed I know that. Ordered it from ECS. The rotors were sealed and had rust on them, I wasnt inpressed at all. The last time I ordered from them the rear rotors were perfect, no rust at all.


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## ctuagent117 (Oct 4, 2005)

At work, alot of our rotors rust from just sitting there, after we touch them.
The back of the HPS pads have instructions on them, they stress them, and make every attempt to have you read them, even on there website, they stress the importance of bedding their pads in correctly


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## 95GolfIIIGL (Jul 7, 2005)

*Re: (ctuagent117)*

Alright man, a couple things; What size rotors do you have? My Hawk HPS Pads made a lovely little grinding sound when I first got them, turns out they stuck out beyind the edge of the rotor, had to sand them down @ the top to make that not happen. That and a good tough couple days on a road-racing track made that sound go away. CRC brake quiet is the isht. Follow this guide here: http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty...s.htm make sure to clean all contact points with some good sanding before putting the new pads in.
Instructions for bedding pads in (as I can remember them):
6-10 stops from 30-35 MPH, mild to medium braking
3-5 stops from 45 MPH, hard braking
10 minutes cool down
good to go
Also, baking the brakes so they are super hot will cook the brake quiet, making it so you need to put on new stuff.
Enjoy!


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## VWGolfA4 (Apr 5, 2000)

*Re: (95GolfIIIGL)*

Thank you. 
I currently have 12.3 inch rotors. The same as the Audi TT, 337 and 20th


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## 95GolfIIIGL (Jul 7, 2005)

*Re: (VWGolfA4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VWGolfA4* »_Thank you. 
I currently have 12.3 inch rotors. The same as the Audi TT, 337 and 20th

Right then. Bigger than mine so you needn;t sand the pads down on top. Just rough up the surface with 80 grit sandpaper like someone else said, use CRC brake quite isht when you put the pads back in, and bed them properly. Should be muhc quieter http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## VWGolfA4 (Apr 5, 2000)

*Re: (95GolfIIIGL)*

ty


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## Vortex_Generator (Aug 2, 2007)

*Re: (95GolfIIIGL)*


_Quote, originally posted by *95GolfIIIGL* »_Instructions for bedding pads in (as I can remember them):
6-10 stops from 30-35 MPH, mild to medium braking
3-5 stops from 45 MPH, hard braking
10 minutes cool down
good to go

I'm pretty sure you need to let the brakes cool completely down between each set of brakings. Only do a couple of repeated slow downs before letting everything cool down completely without touching the brakes. And don't come to a complete stop, that'll bake material onto your rotors.


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## 95GolfIIIGL (Jul 7, 2005)

*Re: (Vortex_Generator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Vortex_Generator* »_
I'm pretty sure you need to let the brakes cool completely down between each set of brakings. Only do a couple of repeated slow downs before letting everything cool down completely without touching the brakes. 

And I'm pretty sure you're a moron, and you just told him how to glaze his brake pads for a SECOND time. Want a link to the Hawk page to prove I'm right? http://www.hawkperformance.com....php#


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## Vortex_Generator (Aug 2, 2007)

*Re: (95GolfIIIGL)*


_Quote, originally posted by *95GolfIIIGL* »_
And I'm pretty sure you're a moron, and you just told him how to glaze his brake pads for a SECOND time. Want a link to the Hawk page to prove I'm right? http://www.hawkperformance.com....php#

Wow, internet tough guy. I have never seen Hawk's specific bedding procedure. That's a pretty short bedding procedure. I used a different one.
But thanks for the kind words.


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## Vortex_Generator (Aug 2, 2007)

*Re: OK... Cant take it anymore! Hawk HPS (T-Red Tex)*


_Quote, originally posted by *T-Red Tex* »_Whenever you replace pads you should usually replace or resurface the rotors. Once everything is installed you shoud "bed" the pads. I know Stoptech recommends 10 stops from 60mph to 10mph then a cooling period and then 10 more stops from 60mph to 10mph. 
I usually do 6-7 each. 

This is what I used (Stoptech's instructions). Notice the cooling periods. Sorry to crap on your Hawk specific instructions.


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## 95GolfIIIGL (Jul 7, 2005)

*Re: OK... Cant take it anymore! Hawk HPS (Vortex_Generator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Vortex_Generator* »_
This is what I used (Stoptech's instructions). Notice the cooling periods. Sorry to crap on your Hawk specific instructions.









Exactly. Note the "Hawk Specific" part? And note that this thread is about Hawk HPS pads? I'm sure your bed in procedure that you mentioned works great for stoptech, but I've used this exact bedding procedure with my onw Hawk HPS pads, and it worked. also, it is exactly what the company designates for our pads. If you don;t have the experience, and you haven;t read the instructions, well...








That said I'm not gonna reply to anything else other than questions from te OP. Give us an update on the brakes and let us know how it goes, yeh?


_Modified by 95GolfIIIGL at 9:06 PM 8-30-2007_


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## Vortex_Generator (Aug 2, 2007)

*Re: OK... Cant take it anymore! Hawk HPS (95GolfIIIGL)*


_Quote, originally posted by *95GolfIIIGL* »_
Exactly. Note the "Hawk Specific" part? And note that this thread is about Hawk HPS pads? I'm sure your bed in procedure that you mentioned works great for stoptech, but I've used this exact bedding procedure with my onw Hawk HPS pads, and it worked. also, it is exactly what the company designates for our pads. 

Wow.








StopTech does not make brake pads, but they know a lot about braking systems. Oh, and guess what, they sell Hawk pads on their website. Since you are so smart and internet incredible that I'm sure you have taken a look at the StopTech white papers, especially for bedding pads: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_i...shtml
This is the proper way to bed in pads and season new rotors. Which requires the cool down. I apologized for mistaking your Hawk instructions for something else. 

_Quote, originally posted by *95GolfIIIGL* »_If you don;t have the experience, and you haven;t read the instructions, well...


I'm glad you put on Hawk pads one time and been to a roadcourse for one weekend and are now an expert. I applaud you for your box reading skills. I was directed to the StopTech white papers when I started doing higher performance pads years ago. I never needed the cliff notes version on the brake pad box.
You are not helping anyone by acting so high and mighty about your little Hawk instructions. So chill out with the tough guy stuff internet warrior stuff.


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## VWGolfA4 (Apr 5, 2000)

*Re: OK... Cant take it anymore! Hawk HPS (Vortex_Generator)*

Damn guys, ok ok already... go fight in IMs not the forums.
I have an appointment tomorrow morning at 10am to have my brakes checked and have my DP installed. I will see whats going on then... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## ctuagent117 (Oct 4, 2005)

When you install a brand you've never used before on a car, you read the directions. The HPS HP+ compounds are probably diffrent compounds than other pads and have there own special directions, and hawk makes every attempt to have you read them, infact, i think Hawk even warns against letting the pads cool inbetween breaking during break in.
..Just read directions, i don't think he's trying to be some sort of expert. Just another reason why people should double read posts before posting a response, what you say is important to alot of people, you could of cost someone some money..


_Modified by ctuagent117 at 7:59 PM 8-31-2007_


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## Vortex_Generator (Aug 2, 2007)

Sorry if I sounded touchy. Hard to get thoughts across posting at work. I was mistaken at first and kept getting flamed.
Here's the deal with the whole cool down thing. Notice Hawk's instructions... at the end it says let them cool down. Now if you read the Stoptech papers you will see that running the bedding procedure AGAIN will help season new rotors, which the original poster had. That's why there is a cool down period in-between. --> 2 seperate bedding sessions. In fact, you may need to bed your pads AGAIN after driving nicely for too long, the pads can rub away the old bedding material from cold friction stops instead of hot ones. This can all be found in the link I provided.
Cheers!


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## VWGolfA4 (Apr 5, 2000)

*Re: (Vortex_Generator)*

Well heres an update...
I didnt see any instructions ON the pads and the shop was too busy to take a look... so my uncle and I decided to do it. Well he said they did seem alittle glazed and he said that IF the shop did put grease on them, it wasnt alot or it wore away because it seemed dry as a bone to him. He used to race Corvettes at Race Way Park when he was my age and he also used to work at a garage back then too. We greased them up again and roughed up the pads. We used CRC Brake Quiet too. We are detailing the car now but on the way home I will follow the Bedding Process that Hawk has listed on their webpage for these brakes...
"Burnishing Instructions
After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure. 
Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. 
DO NOT DRAG BRAKES! 
Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down. 
After step 4 your new pads are ready for use."
Wish me luck and thank you again everyone for all the help... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 95GolfIIIGL (Jul 7, 2005)

*Re: (VWGolfA4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VWGolfA4* »_Wish me luck and thank you again everyone for all the help... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Bon chance mate http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I talked it over with generator, and it seems what he was getting at was doing the process a second time, some time after doing the first one and letting it rest. I dunno if it is important to do or not, but I did it for mine because I screwed up putting the pads on the first time







Mine feel great now though, so I hope yours do too.


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## r0nd3L (Nov 1, 2005)

*Re: (95GolfIIIGL)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VWGolfA4* »_
"Burnishing Instructions
After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure. 
Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. 
DO NOT DRAG BRAKES! 
Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down. 
After step 4 your new pads are ready for use."
Wish me luck and thank you again everyone for all the help... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

It should be noted that you should not stop to below 10mph speed when bedding the pads in.


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## iae21 (Feb 8, 2002)

*Re: (r0nd3L)*

Any luck with the new bedding process? Did it work?


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## [email protected] (Jun 28, 2005)

*Re: (iae21)*

Just replaced all pads with Hawk HPS, followed the bed in process per the instructions and absolutely no noise. Very nice pads considering I was running Mintex Redbox.


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## Raacerx (Mar 24, 2006)

*Re: OK... Cant take it anymore! Hawk HPS (Vortex_Generator)*

I love these brake pads. They were one of the best upgrades I have made. In conjunction with larger then OEM slotted rotors, stainless lines, and TT carriers, the combination is perfect for everything but maybe the track. Low speed grab for me wasnt as good as stock (like under 15mph), but anything above that and jesus what an improvement. Fade resistence is the biggest advantage IMO. 
I followed the break-in procedure, never make any noise. I use brake quiet, the **** you spray on the back of the pads that keep it from vibrating against the caliper. Ive installed these on 2 other Passats and they have had no issues either. Great product. Hawk HPS.


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## r0nd3L (Nov 1, 2005)

*Re: OK... Cant take it anymore! Hawk HPS (Raacerx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Raacerx* »_I love these brake pads. They were one of the best upgrades I have made. In conjunction with larger then OEM slotted rotors, stainless lines, and TT carriers, the combination is perfect for everything but maybe the track. Low speed grab for me wasnt as good as stock (like under 15mph), but anything above that and jesus what an improvement. Fade resistence is the biggest advantage IMO. 
I followed the break-in procedure, never make any noise. I use brake quiet, the **** you spray on the back of the pads that keep it from vibrating against the caliper. Ive installed these on 2 other Passats and they have had no issues either. Great product. Hawk HPS.

How is the dust?


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## Jetta03 (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: OK... Cant take it anymore! Hawk HPS (r0nd3L)*

Mine dust less than stock pads did.


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## M this 1! (May 17, 2000)

*Re: OK... Cant take it anymore! Hawk HPS (Jetta03)*

The Hawk bed in process works great! I personally hated their pads (HPS felt dull on my VR6 and the HP+ worked o.k. but super noisy). but pads are also personal. the proceedure itself works great on ALL. My Stasis/Alcon set up with Feroda 2500s loved this set up too. 
i do ALL my moderate lower speed stops with very little cool down time, but i'm also not generating alot of heat in the system (this is where the glazing comes from). doing ALL 10 stops gets the two surfaces (pad and rotor) mated well. 
THEN comes the higher speed ones. i do 2 from more like 60 but i do not come to a complete stop. i do both VERY hard and increase pressure thru the stop. after the second one the car gets parked for the day, or night. as long as it's being left to get stone cold. the heat at this point releases gases in the pad, deposits pad material on your rotors (the kind you want) and has not brought everything up to but not beyond operating temps. you'll now smell the sweet smell of pad and see your rotors have an interesting color to them. 
this happens to be Stasis' similar way as well. 
but also make sure you have the pad goop put on them before any of this.


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