# For those looking to reduce the TT's weight



## 1.8Tabamoura (Jul 29, 2005)

the factory side skirts are made of sheetmetal and weigh 10lbs each . my Rieger skirts are about 2 pounds each, so another 16lbs you can shave going aftermarket.
Edit : I'm linking this thread : lets update it.
Weight Savings ( This is an estimate , it might very depending on the brand of products you choose)
Ditching rear seats = 40 lbs
Factory side skirts to Rieger = 16lbs
Light weight Battery = ~40 lbs 
Lightweight bucket seats = ~80 lbs
Brakes =~15 lbs
counter weight = 35lbs 
225 crossover pipe (controversal) = 10lbs
Lightweight wheels & Tires =~ 50 lbs total
Spare donut = 32lbs (someone confirm the weight I don't have a spare)
this is awesome there is about 300 lbs to lose here in simple mods here , retaining all confort items , ac stereo , insulation etc..

_Modified by 1.8Tabamoura at 5:36 PM 4-10-2008_


_Modified by 1.8Tabamoura at 5:37 PM 4-10-2008_


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: For those looking to reduce the TT's weight (1.8Tabamoura)*

Lets make this a weight reduction thread...I'm going to be ditching the rear seatbacks soon, and I know those weigh like 40lbs. Another thing I'd like to see is a battery relocation...


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## vaultpsu (Aug 4, 2005)

Someone please post weights up for stock brakes (rotors and calipers) vs upgraded w/floating rotors... I have been curious for a while now. My Brembos seem significantly lighter than the stockers.


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

*Re: (vaultpsu)*

my wilwoods are 5-6lbs lighter than stock/rotor
calipers i didnt really compare, should be atleast 2-3lbs


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: (cincyTT)*

From my Stasis install article:
According to Stasis, the stock TT front calipers weigh in at just under 14lbs a piece and the stock 12.3 inch rotors just a bit over 19lbs each for a total weight of approximately 33lbs a side. The stock rear 10.1 inch rotors weigh in at a tad over 9 lbs each. 
We were pleasantly surprised to find out that the Stasis Tracksport 13" rotors weigh in at 15.5lbs each and the calipers an astonishingly low 9.6 lbs each. With the adaptors weighing in at less than half a pound, your looking at a total weight of about 26 lbs a side, a savings of about 7lbs! The rear 11.7" rotors weighed in at 9lbs each - so with the adaptors, they were just a bit heavier than the stock rear rotors.


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## vaultpsu (Aug 4, 2005)

Thank you!! good info to know!
Bigger brakes = smaller weight ftw!


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: (vaultpsu)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vaultpsu* »_Thank you!! good info to know!
Bigger brakes = smaller weight ftw!

I think a word of caution though as all BBK are not created equal. Some are considerably heavier.


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*

from the prevous ?, i woudl assume he is only going to run floating/2 peice rotors. 12-13" rotors are more than enough for a street car. More so when matched with a 2 peice rotor and 4piston caliper


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: (cincyTT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cincyTT* »_from the prevous ?, i woudl assume he is only going to run floating/2 peice rotors. 12-13" rotors are more than enough for a street car. More so when matched with a 2 peice rotor and 4piston caliper

My point is that you can't assume that all 2 piece floating rotors are the same in terms of weight and all calipers aren't the same either. That's all I'm saying.


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*

I wasnt assuming. They all will be lighter, but agree that they are all not the same in weight. But i said that because brembo has a kit that still uses one peice rotors


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: (cincyTT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cincyTT* »_from the prevous ?, *i woudl assume *he is only going to run floating/2 peice rotors. 12-13" rotors are more than enough for a street car. More so when matched with a 2 peice rotor and 4piston caliper


_Quote, originally posted by *cincyTT* »_*I wasnt assuming*. They all will be lighter, but agree that they are all not the same in weight. But i said that because brembo has a kit that still uses one peice rotors









My previous comment also wasn't directed at what the OP has - but the general statement that BBK's are always lighter - which isn't the case.


_Modified by [email protected] at 11:26 AM 4-10-2008_


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## darrenbyrnes (Jan 4, 2005)

I'm just going to go on a diet...cheaper than replacing TT parts.


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## cdougyfresh (Sep 16, 2004)

*Re: (darrenbyrnes)*


_Quote, originally posted by *darrenbyrnes* »_I'm just going to go on a diet...cheaper than replacing TT parts.









and it will get you laid more!


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## TXR32 (Jun 4, 2006)

*Re: (darrenbyrnes)*


_Quote, originally posted by *darrenbyrnes* »_I'm just going to go on a diet...cheaper than replacing TT parts.









haha that reminds me of a guy at the local 1/4 mile track here a few years ago. His Rustang







had a built 302 motor with around 600HP at the wheels yet he couldn't break 12's in the 1/4......reason being.....he was a BIG BOY and it finally dawned on him that his weight was the losing factor















he took it well just to be clear and instead of losing weight himself....he just built another motor








sorry to get off subject but thought you all would laugh at this


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## darrenbyrnes (Jan 4, 2005)

*Re: (vwglinut)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwglinut* »_
haha that reminds me of a guy at the local 1/4 mile track here a few years ago. His Rustang







had a built 302 motor with around 600HP at the wheels yet he couldn't break 12's in the 1/4......reason being.....he was a BIG BOY and it finally dawned on him that his weight was the losing factor















he took it well just to be clear and instead of losing weight himself....he just built another motor








sorry to get off subject but thought you all would laugh at this









It's not really "off topic" per se...the same thing can be said about the "cycling" crowd...they talk about titanium bolts and what not to reduce weight and then you look at them and they have a few extra pounds.
Dude, lose some weight and you'll be a bit faster... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 1.8Tabamoura (Jul 29, 2005)

Another way to save some pounds its a light weight battery .
http://www.brailleauto.com/


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

*Re: (darrenbyrnes)*

some of us can only be so small. Im 5'10 and ~170lbs. I can only really lose 5+ more lbs with my frame.
I think fiberglassing up some new stock side skirts would be a great thing to try in my future. Things like this really make me believe i can get down to my 2650 goal with full carpet and stereo while also keeping safty/comfort stuff.
Thanks as always http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 1.8Tabamoura (Jul 29, 2005)

How about lightweight wheel and tires ? whats the weight of the fat fives with conti rubber anyone?


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

*Re: (1.8Tabamoura)*

cant find the weight of the tires, but they should be 21-24lbs (compared to other 225/17 tires) and the wheels are 21lbs. So about 42-45lbs


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## vaultpsu (Aug 4, 2005)

*Re: (cincyTT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cincyTT* »_some of us can only be so small. Im 5'10 and ~170lbs. I can only really lose 5+ more lbs with my frame.
I think fiberglassing up some new stock side skirts would be a great thing to try in my future. Things like this really make me believe i can get down to my 2650 goal with full carpet and stereo while also keeping safty/comfort stuff.
Thanks as always http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Someone should get ahold of a plastic injection molding machine and make lightweight "stock" abs replacements http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
In college, a lot of my friends were plastics majors and could make and create just about anything in the school plastics labs.







Wish I could have afforded my car way back then, and had a need for all their skills!


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## scoTT la rock (Jun 17, 2007)

*Re: For those looking to reduce the TT's weight (1.8Tabamoura)*

other easy weight-loss items:
ditch the spare tire, replace with can of fix-a-flat velcro'ed to the spare well.
only run 1/2 tank of gas (assuming you are only looking to be as lightweight as possible for a race or track.
watch "I CAN MAKE YOU THIN" on TLC every sunday nite. that guy has some good tips


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (cincyTT)*

I wanna see how you get to 2650 cincy - If you make your goal, please (for the love of God) post a how-to


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## 1.8Tabamoura (Jul 29, 2005)

*Re: (cincyTT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cincyTT* »_cant find the weight of the tires, but they should be 21-24lbs (compared to other 225/17 tires) and the wheels are 21lbs. So about 42-45lbs

good, I have seen good 16 lbs wheels so I will trow it as average , and light tires are about the same , so average you can save about 10 to 15 lbs per wheel. so lets average it at 50 lbs


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## 1.8Tabamoura (Jul 29, 2005)

Is it possible to gut the Haldex and make a 225 FWD? If so do you guys think that loosing all this weight will be more beneficial than having AWD ? what about weight distribution without the haldex ?


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## TTracing (Mar 20, 2008)

*Re: (1.8Tabamoura)*

Good post, racers,
i'm working "heavy" on weight...
Last time I was on the scale, the baby was at 2,940lbs , in racing trims...
My fat six were 29 a piece, Enkei at 16, save 52 just on the wheels.
No idea between a stock tire and a Hoosier R6 or A6.
My Braille is 6.5, but my stock was 27, so...
Fidanza 10lbs.
I'm gonna start to remove radio, a/c, ....stuff...Definitely interested in a lightweight Lexan window hatch...cardboard hood...
And keep it AWD, doodoo, that's what makes our car so good...Get the compet Haldex if you wanna race...










_Modified by TTracing at 7:16 PM 4-10-2008_


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## cdougyfresh (Sep 16, 2004)

*Re: (TTracing)*

i assume everyone knows this... but dont forget about the huge weight under the rear bumper.


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## TTracing (Mar 20, 2008)

*Re: (cdougyfresh)*

I think that's what tamaboura refered as counter weight, actually 37lbs...


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (1.8Tabamoura)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8Tabamoura* »_Is it possible to gut the Haldex and make a 225 FWD? If so do you guys think that loosing all this weight will be more beneficial than having AWD ? what about weight distribution without the haldex ?

If you do that, just sell your TTq and get a GTI. The whole point is AWD


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## pat7755 (Sep 9, 2007)

*Re: (TTracing)*

I saw this in one of stjacket's threads. tell me more! What it looks like, how to remove it, does it have any purpose?


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## chaugner (Jul 13, 2002)

*Re: (cdougyfresh)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cdougyfresh* »_i assume everyone knows this... but dont forget about the huge weight under the rear bumper. 

on the quattro those are kind of light, the rear at least. Also another nice weight reduction is the oem exhaust. I did remove the insulation from under the carpet and gained 1lbs lmao (that stuff did not weight anything).
Besides that you have a few more things, flywheel as mentioned, secondary air injection and maybe some of the emmissions crap, washer fluid bottle under the fender. Also removing the wheel wells (though not recommended for a daily driver).


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## vaultpsu (Aug 4, 2005)

No one mentioned the AC, Alternator or underdrive pulleys... the stockers are very heavy.


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: (1.8Tabamoura)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8Tabamoura* »_
good, I have seen good 16 lbs wheels so I will trow it as average , and light tires are about the same , so average you can save about 10 to 15 lbs per wheel. so lets average it at 50 lbs 

That's a bit optimistic - more like 5 to 8lbs per wheel - which is a 30lb savings at most unless you get into real lightweight racing wheels.


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## Murderface (Nov 13, 2006)

*Re: (vaultpsu)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vaultpsu* »_In college, a lot of my friends were plastics majors and could make and create just about anything in the school plastics labs.







Wish I could have afforded my car way back then, and had a need for all their skills!

Now I know who to make friends with when I'm up there


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: (Murderface)*

If you are ditching the spare- ditch the jack and tools as well, first aid kit etc. and rear parcel cover.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (Murderface)*

Here is a DIY on how to remove all the hoses and crap under the hood - its A LOT cleaner, and it all probably weighs 10-15lbs
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3111538
This is about what it will look like when its done:


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## vaultpsu (Aug 4, 2005)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_Here is a DIY on how to remove all the hoses and crap under the hood - its A LOT cleaner, and it all probably weighs 10-15lbs
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3111538
This is about what it will look like when its done:









Things there are slightly different than our engines, plus emissions FTL.


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_I wanna see how you get to 2650 cincy - If you make your goal, please (for the love of God) post a how-to









Im fwd so im only starting with 2910lbs. The more of this stuff to remove, the easier and lighter i can make it. Its a great way to make it faster and get better mpg.


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## 1.8Tabamoura (Jul 29, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
That's a bit optimistic - more like 5 to 8lbs per wheel - which is a 30lb savings at most unless you get into real lightweight racing wheels.

I meant light tires plus light wheels .


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

*Re: (1.8Tabamoura)*

I would take an extra 1-3lbs for better and wider rubber personally.


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## 1.8Tabamoura (Jul 29, 2005)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_
If you do that, just sell your TTq and get a GTI. The whole point is AWD

no, I don't like the GTI body . Plus there are tons of thems out there, I got to a show , I see 5 TTs and a gazilion of GTIS and I don't think that the Haldex is that good anyway. IF there was a 225 with 6 speed and FWD I would buy that instead of the AWD . I'm seriously thinking in going the same route as Cincy , selling my 225 and getting an 180 FWD to start light then going the big turbo route. well see.


_Modified by 1.8Tabamoura at 2:37 PM 4-11-2008_


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

*Re: (1.8Tabamoura)*

all you need is a gli or 337 02M setup and you are good. It is a great idea to swap to a 02M since they shift and hold power far better. I will have to go that route eventually.


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: (cincyTT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cincyTT* »_
all you need is a gli or 337 02M setup and you are good. It is a great idea to swap to a 02M since they shift and hold power far better. I will have to go that route eventually.


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*

not sure why gear ratios have to do with what i said unless you are giving more info. 
My point was: They hold power better (212mm/228mm vr6 upgrade vs 240mm for the 02M) and shift better in the 7k+ range.


_Modified by cincyTT at 8:17 PM 4-11-2008_


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## Murderface (Nov 13, 2006)

*Re: (cincyTT)*

Get next to me on the highway and you'll appreciate FWD








Haldex really doesn't impress me much, if you watch hard launches of TT's, even the 3.2 VRT's they're not that great. Then when you watch a syncro/torsen system at work it takes off like a bat outta hell.


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: (cincyTT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cincyTT* »_not sure why gear ratios have to do with what i said unless you are giving more info. 
My point was: They hold power better (212mm/228mm vr6 upgrade vs 240mm for the 02M) and shift better in the 7k+ range.

_Modified by cincyTT at 8:17 PM 4-11-2008_

Simply more info - but sorry that wasn't obvious - and in need of being questioned.


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*

My bad killer. Its not like we havent seen them or know where to look


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## rastta (Feb 22, 1999)

*Re: (cincyTT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cincyTT* »_My bad killer. Its not like we havent seen them or know where to look


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## stjacket (Apr 26, 2007)

*Re: ([email protected])*

ok, a few weight savings were missed, the stock exhaust and or pretty much anything you buy aftermarket are heavy as hell. if you trimed it down, you could save 40ish lbs. from memory, my stock muffler was 27lbs alone. a/c system could net 30ish lbs if you remove everything to include your a/c radiator.


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

*Re: (stjacket)*

titanium exhaust FTW!!! 
A smaller muffler would cut out most of the weight along with no res or cat.


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## stjacket (Apr 26, 2007)

*Re: (cincyTT)*

alum of just lighter galvenized steel pipe with a alum glass pack would be all. plus, its easier to bend. psh, a little secret to get an almost mandrel bend on thin wall pipe. fill it with sand and cap the ends before you bend it


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## giacTT (May 16, 2007)

*Re: (stjacket)*

Good to know.....next week at the track i will remove my hood...hatch all seats including drivers seat...take off the whole exhaust and bolt a milk crate to the floor.







)


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## iminthegaragedear (Jul 18, 2007)

All right. put down the gloves. Virtually any exhaust mod will be a huge weight saving over stock. I went with 42DD downpipe and blueflame stainless and am saving about fifty lbs. Added 3,216 horsepower [email protected]! Now if they'd just open a Joe's Crab Shack or a Southport Raw Bar in the PNW, I could crank up the stonecrab methane retro rocket boost machine.... lol


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## 1.8Tabamoura (Jul 29, 2005)

*Re: (stjacket)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stjacket* »_ok, a few weight savings were missed, the stock exhaust and or pretty much anything you buy aftermarket are heavy as hell. if you trimed it down, you could save 40ish lbs. from memory, my stock muffler was 27lbs alone. a/c system could net 30ish lbs if you remove everything to include your a/c radiator. 

what part of retaining confort item as ac, stereo carpet you don't understand ?


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## pat7755 (Sep 9, 2007)

*Re: (1.8Tabamoura)*

Hmmm Im prbly the only one with a TT who doesn't ever use my a/c. Even so, I prbly wouldnt go through the trouble of pulling it out.... not yet anyway. I much rather prefer windows down on even the hottest days, and sometimes even on fall or mild winter days windows down heated seats blasting FTW! So far I've taken out both back seats and spare tire and tools, prbly around 80lbs or so. How much time can weight saving shed off a 1/4 mile time? Ive heard 100lbs less accounts for 1/10 second faster. Since I've reduced my weight even slightly I've noticed a nice increase in mpg


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

*Re: (pat7755)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pat7755* »_How much time can weight saving shed off a 1/4 mile time? Ive heard 100lbs less accounts for 1/10 second faster. Since I've reduced my weight even slightly I've noticed a nice increase in mpg









That is correct. The mpg gain is more pronounced since you have less mass to get moving from a stop which helps out alot. I hope it offsets my disp increase


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (cincyTT)*

Yea, I've heard increasing your displacement really ruins your power/weight ratio


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## robingohtt (Nov 6, 2005)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*

8kg for that thick foam under the carpet


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## cdougyfresh (Sep 16, 2004)

*Re: (robingohtt)*

-0 to a lot of pounds for excercise!


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## robingohtt (Nov 6, 2005)

*Re: (cdougyfresh)*

my roadster rear interior panels weight 9kg..the steel bracket holding the speaker - 4kg..
the internal door panels 5kg each..
planning to replace them with thin CF panels - custom.
up to 1170kg now..
if I can afford the CF doors..that will take of another 60kg..
speakers add up to only 3kg for all though.


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## willsoffe (Nov 28, 2005)

darrenbyrnes said:


> _Quote, originally posted by *vwglinut* »_
> haha that reminds me of a guy at the local 1/4 mile track here a few years ago. His Rustang
> 
> 
> ...


I do everything I can to make my bike lighter but then again I'm racing and I've won and lost races by 0.02 seconds so it does make sense.

I am also down the gym alot, trying to make it over the 10 stone mark!

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Will-Soffe-interview-2010.html


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## 2001TTransport (Sep 18, 2005)

Lots of weight (27.5lbs) removed here but still have AC and creature comforts... 












Just shaved another 3.5lbs per side yesterday...


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

Don't forget the cd changer I took out the back seat spare tire Jack tools ac engine covers light weight pulleys exhaust no cat or muffler ripped out the seat belts racing seats the stock steering wheel is very heavy I can weight it tomorrow put in racing steering wheel the tray for under the engine and it still weighs 3200 with me in it and a full tank and a dunkin donuts large coffee


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

Oh yeah I put in 2 14" misihimoto fans


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## MKllllvr28 (Sep 15, 2005)

steering wheel weighs some 24 lbs i think i just shipped mine last week. but my momo doesnt weigh much less and its a 260mm...


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

MKllllvr28 said:


> steering wheel weighs some 24 lbs i think i just shipped mine last week. but my momo doesnt weigh much less and its a 260mm...



Where did you get the MOMO steering wheel? Did it come with a Audi adaptor?


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## MKllllvr28 (Sep 15, 2005)

i bought it from a guy that had it on his mk4 jetta... the tt is a lot more vw then it is audi lol


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

MKllllvr28 said:


> i bought it from a guy that had it on his mk4 jetta... the tt is a lot more vw then it is audi lol



ha ha.... got it. I found the hub for the jetta/golf for 2001. I guess the TT is basically a mk4 R32? Anyone remove a airbag without running into something?


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

2001TTransport said:


> Lots of weight (27.5lbs) removed here but still have AC and creature comforts...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Hay is that the power steering reserve I what to get rid of my power steering but I don't know what rack to use and where did you get the front a arms from


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## miamisam (Apr 22, 2015)

Great thread! 

One thing I haven't seen mentioned anywhere yet: the 2.2 lb triangular "grab bar" bracket between the dash and the floor console. 
I almost didn't buy my TT because my long leg was rubbing against the damn thing and I couldn't hit the gas pedal squarely. 
Pulled off the rubber grab thingy just to test drive it, and once bought, I removed the driver's side bracket. 
It's part of a structural pair that stabilizes dash/windshield shake, so I left the right one on there. But really all you need is one. 

Added bonus: it's easier now to reach the door to the fuel/trunk release buttons. 


Phil


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

This is what I have in my notes for stuff removed during my last class race prep:


A/C 25 lbs
AWIC 40 lbs
Bumpers 17 lbs
Hood 10 lbs
Glove box 10 lbs
Lower dash panel 6 lbs
Misc interior pieces 15 lbs
Carpet (roadster) 25 lbs
Convertible top 85 lbs
Rear bulkhead 5 lbs
Door panels/glass 75 lbs
Dash 30 lbs
Heater/blower 20 lbs
Sun visors 3 lbs
Trunk spoiler 13 lbs
Evap pump 5 lbs
Sound deadening 10 lbs
Under belly panels 3 lbs
Grill 3 lbs
Short alu exhaust 20 lbs
Wipers 5 lbs
Alarm horn 3 lbs
Unused harnesses 10 lbs

Total --------------> 435 lbs (I was at 3,000 lbs when I sarted noting things removed in the list) 

It hurts to destroy such an iconic interior in the name of speed, but you do what you have to do to go fast. This is what the interior ended looking like after I removed the dash and heater box (needs some cleaning up, looming, and tucking).


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

Handbrake and all associated cables etc can go. Unless you plan on doing Rallycross as well!! 

What are you running for rear Calipers these days?


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Chickenman35 said:


> Handbrake and all associated cables etc can go. Unless you plan on doing Rallycross as well!!
> 
> What are you running for rear Calipers these days?


Hey Richard, good to see you still lurking on the TT board! I have considered it several times but can't bring myself to do it. I use the handbrake quite often at the start to stop the car from rolling forward/backward and help nail the launch without too much work. The lower 3/4 portion of the teeth in the handle are shaved, the mod allows me to kinda stage the car on the emergency brake and preload the clutch - then just let go of the handle when needed to shoot out of the hole. It works quite well and I kinda got me spoiled. I am sitting right above minimum weight now, so things that are helpful are no longer a target (soon I'm going to be adding ballast to meet min weight). :beer:


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

Interesting... I've haven't had to use that technique in years, all of our sites are dead flat. Our Hillclimbs of course have a start line wheel block, so no handbrake needed. But I do notice the Global Rallycross guys using a fly-off handbrake at the start. 

My Audi was a SOB to launch correctly. 10 lb flywheel was tricky. To little revs and car bogged. Too many revs and smell that burning clutch!! Car was no where even close to what you've got of course, and I wanted to keep it reasonably stock for a DD. 

Playing with the 280Z now.. but that car won't see Tack Days or anything like that. Maybe the occasional Autocross when I get a few more things sorted. Won't be competitive though.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Hey Richard, good to see you still lurking on the TT board! I have considered it several times but can't bring myself to do it. I use the handbrake quite often at the start to stop the car from rolling forward/backward and help nail the launch without too much work. The lower 3/4 portion of the teeth in the handle are shaved, the mod allows me to kinda stage the car on the emergency brake and preload the clutch - then just let go of the handle when needed to shoot out of the hole. It works quite well and I kinda got me spoiled. I am sitting right above minimum weight now, so things that are helpful are no longer a target (soon I'm going to be adding ballast to meet min weight). :beer:


Why, when you have the 2 and 3 step rev limiters in the AEM Infinity?


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

20v master said:


> Why, when you have the 2 and 3 step rev limiters in the AEM Infinity?


Maybe because the 2-3 steps limiters don't do anything for a rolling car on a non-flat surface. Don't serious and competitive drag cars also have staging brakes on top of their electronic launch controls? 

For example I've done several DC ProSolo (Pros are drag starts with Christmas tree and two cars going at it on identical mirror courses), the surface of that venue is nothing but uphill/downhill with constant elevation changes. Without a handbrake start once staged, you're either rolling into the light for a DQ or rolling backwards (depending on the event course orientation). It's not like drag racing where starts are usually flat, Solo brings other elements into the mix and that's why it the sport of all-around cars and drivers.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Maybe because the 2-3 steps limiters don't do anything for a rolling car on a non-flat surface. Don't serious and competitive drag cars also have staging brakes on top of their electronic launch controls?
> 
> For example I've done several DC ProSolo (Pros are drag starts with Christmas tree and two cars going at it on identical mirror courses), the surface of that venue is nothing but uphill/downhill with constant elevation changes. Without a handbrake start once staged, you're either rolling into the light for a DQ or rolling backwards (depending on the event course orientation). It's not like drag racing where starts are usually flat, Solo brings other elements into the mix and that's why it the sport of all-around cars and drivers.


I've been on unlevel drag strips before, and had to do the same. Yes, it's a PITA. You just made it sound like you aren't using the AEM's launch control capabilities in your previous post. I just know you have real rubber, and didn't know if there was more of a reason to not truly launch drag style. Obviously course layout and the distance to the first turn comes into play too! :laugh:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

20v master said:


> I've been on unlevel drag strips before, and had to do the same. * Yes, it's a PITA*. You just made it sound like you aren't using the AEM's launch control capabilities in your previous post. I just know you have real rubber, and didn't know if there was more of a reason to not truly launch drag style. Obviously course layout and the distance to the first turn comes into play too! :laugh:



You're absolutely right, it is a real PITA when you have to worry about the Christmas tree and reaction time (if slow, reaction really kills you since the clock starts rolling with the green), then to have a rolling car adding to the difficulty of the launch is an extra unwanted layer to the routine.

Below is what I did to the handbrake to help these situations. The trick had served me well and all you need to do is pull it - preload the clutch while sitting on the 2-step - then let it go when needed (the hanbrake self-locking ability is still functional on the last two upper teeth). Call it poorman stage brake:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Do you think that would help or hurt driveline shock to the rear on an aggressive drag launch since it's disabling Haldex via the handbrake switch as opposed to having the F/R locked 50/50 via an aftermarket controller? I know next to nothing about AWD launching, but that'll have to change soon!


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

I can't remember Max. You running SP or Street Mod? Was just browsing the 2015 SCCA Solo Rules last night, and apparently SP rules require that the vehicle has an operating hand brake ( or foot brake ). So good thing that you kept it. SCCA sure has some strange rules....


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

20v master said:


> Do you think that would help or hurt driveline shock to the rear on an aggressive drag launch since it's disabling Haldex via the handbrake switch as opposed to having the F/R locked 50/50 via an aftermarket controller? I know next to nothing about AWD launching, but that'll have to change soon!


I don't think it makes a difference. The rear engagement is only happening when the ABS sees front spin, and that's regardless of emergency brake signal. Therefore, that kinda negates the drawbacks that you're thinking about. Rear engagement also happens in a fraction of a full front rotation, so pretty quick where the handbrake technique is not really affecting the 4-wheel performance of the launch. Not sure if what I wrote made sense ...:sly:



Chickenman35 said:


> I can't remember Max. You running SP or Street Mod? Was just browsing the 2015 SCCA Solo Rules last night, and apparently SP rules require that the vehicle has an operating hand brake ( or foot brake ). So good thing that you kept it. SCCA sure has some strange rules....


Richard, I have moved to Prepared now (F-prepared specifically since the car is also have XP eligibility). You're definitely right about strange and often ambiguous rules with SCCA Solo - another reason that pushed me to Prepared where there is much more wiggle room for a builder type of guy/car.


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## silver Greece (Jul 30, 2010)

Has anyone else reduced weight of his tt? I am looking to reduce mine's because 1400 kg seems to be still very heavy although i have already remove all a/c accessories and the heavy metal inside the back bumper. My tt is roadster BT.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

silver Greece said:


> Has anyone else reduced weight of his tt? I am looking to reduce mine's because 1400 kg seems to be still very heavy although i have already remove all a/c accessories and the heavy metal inside the back bumper. My tt is roadster BT.


Hi, I have a 225 roadster and have done a fair bit of weight reduction. I'll just quote a post I made on another European forum, that way you can see the weight in Kg. 



Madmax199 said:


> I have done a lot of weight reduction in my roadster and got it down to 1,130 kg. This is what I have put on the scale through my journey (obviously I didn't weigh everything removed, but the big items that had my attention were logged in my notes):
> 
> 
> Weight reduction:
> ...


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## Arizman3 (May 30, 2006)

I wonder if the RB kit for the R32 would fit the TT (massive weight savings over the stock r32 brakes)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5642289-Racingbrake-Big-Brake-Kit-%28BBK%29&highlight=racingbrake


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Arizman3 said:


> I wonder if the RB kit for the R32 would fit the TT (massive weight savings over the stock r32 brakes)
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5642289-Racingbrake-Big-Brake-Kit-%28BBK%29&highlight=racingbrake


You probably could make it work with some tweaking (new carriers and possibly lines). If you're seriously in the business of weight saving, there are even lighter kits available for the TT though. Willwood makes a kit that is super light (caliper and rotor together), but retains similar mechanical leverage as the OEM TT setup. 

http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitListFront.aspx?make=Audi&model=TT&year=2001


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> You probably could make it work with some tweaking (new carriers and possibly lines). If you're seriously in the business of weight saving, there are even lighter kits available for the TT though. Willwood makes a kit that is super light (caliper and rotor together), but retains similar mechanical leverage as the OEM TT setup.
> 
> http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitListFront.aspx?make=Audi&model=TT&year=2001


Good to know Max. Any word on the kit's actual weight savings compared to stock?
May consider if significantly lighter than Boxster option (which it may be as Boxster brakes use OEM rotors)


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## silver Greece (Jul 30, 2010)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> silver Greece said:
> 
> 
> > Has anyone else reduced weight of his tt? I am looking to reduce mine's because 1400 kg seems to be still very heavy although i have already remove all a/c accessories and the heavy metal inside the back bumper. My tt is roadster BT.
> ...


So, after almost 5 years Marcus are you still here?


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## JoshFerguson (Feb 19, 2020)

Thank you!! good info to know!
Bigger brakes = smaller weight ftw!


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