# r32 turbo hydrid help , eccessive oil from the breather pipe



## adaptorman (Dec 12, 2007)

hi all , im noticeing that my engine breather on the rocker is starting to blow oil out in boost ,, , and also noticed when ive done a few hard puls the dam hydrolic tappits start rattings , like low oil pressure ,, 
but the engine dosent smoke , from the exhaust , , any possible help were this happernds and cureing in it ?


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## S3.2 (Sep 19, 2009)

*Re: r32 turbo hydrid help , eccessive oil from the breather pipe (adaptorman)*

How much oil do you get in the breather?


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## adaptorman (Dec 12, 2007)

*Re: r32 turbo hydrid help , eccessive oil from the breather pipe (S3.2)*

ive only noticed this when the engine is pushed hard in boost , 20mm approx on 5 boost runs , but i dont get any blue/black smoke from the exahust pipe , and i get a bit od white smoke , unless its oil rings are worn . but id assume id get blue smoke , now the worrying part evern thow the engine will start run really well,say i give the engine some hard boosting pulls, the clyinder head rattles as like theres no oil getting to them , i leave the engine to idiol and all goes quite , ive good oil pressure as well , as i also changed the oil/filter thinking may have been that ,,


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## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: r32 turbo hydrid help , eccessive oil from the breather pipe (adaptorman)*

If you have lots of blow by the compression rings could be on their way out. Perform a compression test, you don't want more than about 40psi difference from your highest to lowest reading. A good indication of a dying engine is significant blowby given that everything else is sound i.e. oil level, turbo drain, turbo, etc.


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## adaptorman (Dec 12, 2007)

*Re: r32 turbo hydrid help , eccessive oil from the breather pipe (KubotaPowered)*

hi ive checked my engine compression and they all show 8 , because i run a 8.5 head spacer , 
main thing thats worrying is the engine hydrolic tappits rattle , when ive done some 20/25psi runs, as i have to leave the engien to idiol then everything is nice and quite again ,, woundering if a 13row oilcooler may help , incase the engine oil his getting too warm and making it go too thin,


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## matchew (Apr 11, 2006)

What oil brand and grade are you using?


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## adaptorman (Dec 12, 2007)

*Re: (matchew)*

i will check on this , matchew , 10/40w rings a bell , but i will check and update in the morning


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## adaptorman (Dec 12, 2007)

well today the worst happernd , the crank went again ,, , engine was runing sweet , and there wasnt a rumble or knock oil light in site , until i hit boost , engine rattled,cut out , tryed to re start the engine and it was tight , so removed the sump to find remains of the mains/shells in the oil , grrr , so after 3 crankshafts doing the same, looks like im going to have to give up on v6 engines , evern after useing exspensive oil, made little differnce ,, is this comon as i exspected the pistons or conrods failing before the crank bearings
is it that im not useing a external oil cooler, radiator heat is effecting engine block heat riseing oil temps ,maybe hot boost/high oil temps , as ive used differnert grades of oil in all 3 so far with no joy ,, as i was told the rods/pistons will go before the crank ,,










_Modified by adaptorman at 10:00 PM 1-14-2010_


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## VR6-GT42RS (Jun 4, 2008)

something is wrong...your engine setup should easy hold 600hp..


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## adaptorman (Dec 12, 2007)

hiya pal , i bet ull have better look then , me , ill explain a bit better , this same problem has now happerned to 3 engines , i know there only stock 24v v6 engine with only a 8.5 compression drop , but i carnt work out why 3 engines all looked perfect on the cranks, and i checked the mains and big ends which looked like new , and they basicly eating away at the cranks,after exspensive engine oil , new oil filters , i can only think its either the amount of boost blowing on to pistons , wearing the mains/big ends/ or the oil is too hot going past it tolleranices , because i drove drove the vechical 80miles at 70mph without any problems , soon as i give it 25psi for around 5 hard pulls , the oil will get blow out of the engine breather and make the clyinder head rattle (like low oil pressure , but soon as i leave it to idiol for a 1minite or so , its all fine again , i carnt work out why , as ive checked oil, filter, oilports, used the correct alloy sump , new oilpump, bigger turbo oil return 19mm , still this happerns ,


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## mcdub (Jun 19, 2005)

Get a eurospec crank and calico bearings see how long that gives.Recomend having a girdle made to get everything in line and check and prevent crank walk,aswell as adding casing strenght under pressure.
Everyone knows the 24v vr6 engines are weak under eny boost application


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## mcdub (Jun 19, 2005)

*Re: (adaptorman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *adaptorman* »_hiya pal , i bet ull have better look then , me , ill explain a bit better , this same problem has now happerned to 3 engines , i know there only stock 24v v6 engine with only a 8.5 compression drop , but i carnt work out why 3 engines all looked perfect on the cranks, and i checked the mains and big ends which looked like new , and they basicly eating away at the cranks,after exspensive engine oil , new oil filters , i can only think its either the amount of boost blowing on to pistons , wearing the mains/big ends/ or the oil is too hot going past it tolleranices , because i drove drove the vechical 80miles at 70mph without any problems , soon as i give it 25psi for around 5 hard pulls , the oil will get blow out of the engine breather and make the clyinder head rattle (like low oil pressure , but soon as i leave it to idiol for a 1minite or so , its all fine again , i carnt work out why , as ive checked oil, filter, oilports, used the correct alloy sump , new oilpump, bigger turbo oil return 19mm , still this happerns ,

they just suck and cost money.
That sounds horribly frightning.
Only a 24v thing








But seriously you clearly have a ishue with crankcase pressure,I highly suggest looking into adding a catchcan or 2,or have a vent box made.
I dunno if im on crack,but I might remember seeing the wizard talking about dry sump beeing a big advantage on the r32.
I remember reading GM having to make the ZR1 drysump because regular wet sump would have to much forces from the torque and would starv pump or wtv was happening and would eat engines.
Im sure if someone dished out some money for a dry sump set-up.It would be REALLY interesting too see.Too bad I am not rich and cannot do this for the sake of mankind


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## adaptorman (Dec 12, 2007)

well i never knew these had crank bearing issuise , so , thats put me right off , as engines arnt cheep ,as ud think the stock bearings on the crank would be up to the job , dose this apply with the 12v engine , reason i ask , my mate has a 12v vr6t and hesnever had a problem with crank bearing failure?? if so , ill have to build a 12vr6t and crap this idea of 24v turbo due to this fault


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## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (adaptorman)*

that sux man
i wonder how hot the oil is getting


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## adaptorman (Dec 12, 2007)

unsure but im tempted to fit another cranks and add the mk3 oil filter houseing and wire the oil temp sensor up ,,


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## pimS (Jan 7, 2009)

As far as i know you should be running 5w40 oil.
you don't have an oil temp. gauge?
On my 12v the oil can get up to 120 degrees celcius after some long highway puls in the summer, but thats about as high as you want to go imho. 
not knowing what your oil temp is sucks bigtime, you use an boost gauge because you want to know what your car is doing boost wise at any moment, same go's for your oil temp.


_Modified by pimS at 3:13 AM 1-15-2010_


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## adaptorman (Dec 12, 2007)

ps i have checked and it was 5 40 fully synectic
oil , say i fit a a oil temp gauge ,i still carnt risk boosting the engine as it willjust do the same , , so basiscly must be the oil thats getting too hot, as i noticed when ive givern the engien a good flush and change the oil its nice and clean , which id be lucky if it says clean for a week , then its black again ,,,i could understand this on 1 engine , but 3 engines , is bad ,, r32/2x 4motion engines , looks like im going to have to cutt my loses and run a stock engine ,what a pain


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## kevhayward (Mar 13, 2007)

*Re: (adaptorman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *adaptorman* »_so basiscly must be the oil thats getting too hot, as i noticed when ive givern the engien a good flush and change the oil its nice and clean , which id be lucky if it says clean for a week , then its black again ,,,i could understand this on 1 engine , but 3 engines , is bad ,, r32/2x 4motion engines , looks like im going to have to cutt my loses and run a stock engine ,what a pain

Oil going black that quickly is a sure sign of blow-by and / or excessively rich fuelling. Standard pistons? If you strip it again, look for broken ring lands too. Stock pistons aren't going to like 25psi very much.
What car is the engine in? Corrados, Golfs etc all have MFA oil temp. But the R32 engine doesn't have the sensor for it, so I'd plumb one into the oil filter housing.
An oil pressure gauge is a good idea too. Anything less than 2 bar at hot idle is a sign the bearings are dying.
The 2.8 24V isn't quite as bad with boost as the R32 I've heard?
I think you've just had some bad luck, try winding the boost back until you're happy the engines are holding.
Could be time for a 12V T? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








The 12V is well known to be a tank with boost.


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## adaptorman (Dec 12, 2007)

*Re: (kevhayward)*

hi pal thanks for the info , if id had own this from the start i personlay wouldnt have used the r32 or the 2.8 24v , 
so is this why a mk3 vr6 holds boost better then a 24v engine because of the clyinder head flow rate? 
as the mk3 and mk4 crank/rods pistons are basicly the same , 
when u say blow by , , i gather u mean when boost blows past the pistons into the sump , causeing pressure which would blow up the breathe case and blow oil out off the breather ,(is this a poor design, or something), as the engine thats is , is a 2.8 block with a r32 head, which had new rings, mains, big ends fitted , and run in for a steady period of 700miles with no boost ( removed the external wastegate spring/valve)
as the worse problem ive come accoss is poeple blowing ring lands or cons coming thew the blocks , 
as i personly think rebuilding another is a waste of time , as it would be a boring car to drive with low or no boost tbh ,
i have a mk3 vr6 engine , which i could turbo , and i can contect the oil temp etc as my mk1 golf caddy 4wd , has the vr6 clocks fitted ,
just means starting from scratch again







stock pistons hold well , now im understanding and stageing the tunieing with the ms2 ecu on the go ,,
as i do know my mates mk3 vr6t holds well at 27psi and never had any probs other then a odd pistons ring land poping , 
any advise and how i stop blow back , when boost is hitting the pistons,,


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## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (adaptorman)*

You may need to look into the tolerances at which you set the rings to as well. If they are too tight you can break lands, also a tolerance often overlooked is the piston to cylinder wall clearance. Both of these tolerances, if out of spec can cause blowby, compression entering the sump, or worse, internal engine damage.


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## adaptorman (Dec 12, 2007)

*Re: (KubotaPowered)*

hi pal , well , i removed the sump and removed the r32 head , as i carnt see anything wrong with these pistons tbh , all pistons/ rings or correctly offset /ring lands are fine/ no cracks , all bores are smooth, as these were new piston rings,compression was 8 (shown above) compression drop due to 8.5 head spacer, ,as i personly dont know what to do for the best, due to money costs , 
dose anyone else here have crankshaft problems with boost , as id like to know








is it correct that a mk3 vr6 holds boost better , any facts , 
as my weak point is crankshaft oil faliure, either due to blow back or eccessive hot oil/ hard to tell tbh ,,as theres no point in blowing silly money for it to do the same problem , it maybe because im boosting in 4wd , causeing extra load on the engine then a 2wd engine ,,
as im trying to work out what to do , to get a stock vr6 engine to hold boost and keep the oil in the sump without overheating , (wish id fitted a oil temp switch) for the temp


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## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

*Re: (adaptorman)*

you need to find someone who knows how to assemble engines. from your posts its pretty obvious that who ever is doing it right now, doesnt know what they're doing.


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## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (TBT-Syncro)*

i've never heard of crank bearing failures before rod bearing failures
evar except in 1.7
i never change em, just the con rod top shells with good bottom ones
i have no idea about your hybrid, but i assume the different head has the exact same oil pump
even oil starvation should cause the rod bearings to go first


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## adaptorman (Dec 12, 2007)

ive been to a company regards this problem , with crank bearing failure , ive had the oil pump , bores, pistons ,rings,, oil ways checked etc were fitted correctly, checked bolt torque settings,they blame the oil is far too hot for the engine to flow correctly thew the engine , as they stated (your oil isnt lubacating the engine bearings , as the engine oil is to hot ,which is causeing low oil pressure resulting in engine failure
all they recomend is fit a external oil cooler to help keep the engine oil cool 
1,when i boost 8/15psi i dont have any problems at all 
2, soon as i run from 15 , 25 after a few runs the 5/40w fully systhic oil goes from clear to black within a few days,

thinking about this , dose anyone here drive ur 24v hard if so what boost
do u guys run extenal oil coolers/if so do they help?
do u think it may help if i used a 70deg thermostat and fan switch as well , instead of the stock thermostat which is fitted at mo 
,
as im basicly trying to get to the bottom of this , due to going thew 3 engines with what i think is down to oil problem ,
i think all i can do , is turn the boost down and run 8psi , which i might as well remove the headspacer and run low boost ,, 

many thanks on the help guys 


_Modified by adaptorman at 2:55 PM 1-17-2010_


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## matchew (Apr 11, 2006)

What make of oil were you using? 5/40 is too thin!


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## adaptorman (Dec 12, 2007)

*Re: (matchew)*

it was 5/40w fully systhic carlube







ive been adivsed to run 10/30w genetic oil? i will also use a mk3 oilfilter huseing with the sensors because then i can wire the oil temp up as well which i can keep an eye on


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## adaptorman (Dec 12, 2007)

*Re: (kevhayward)*

i bought a cheep vr6 lump from a ford , thing is , do i have the crank and new bearings fitted into the 24v moter , or adapt this with a headspacer and make a couple of manifolds
quick pic here


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## S3.2 (Sep 19, 2009)

*Re: (adaptorman)*

I use Ravenol 10-60 oil. I have 1.2 bar at idle hot going to 7 bar by 3k. I've never seen more than 100 deg. Celcius on oil but I never boosted it more than 1.3 bar. I think you should put oil press-temp. gauges especially after these failures. They are not that expensive and they will make you able to see what's going on. Hope that helps. I also think that 8 bar on the compress. test is kinda low, mine showed 12 bar on that gauge and I use 9:1 CR pistons.


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## adaptorman (Dec 12, 2007)

*Re: (S3.2)*

many thanks s3 , i will also add a oil pressure gauge too ,,,but regards compression , this is correct for a 8.5.1 headspacer drop , as it shows 8 , i personaly think , im useing the wrong oil, and tunieing for too mutch boost , as hot oil/ creating low oil pressure ,with more higher boost , is limiting correct oil flow to the crank bearings,,, so , ill turn it down and run at 8psi of boost , for a while and keep a eye on the gauges , also maybe because my turbo comes in at late rpm/


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## S3.2 (Sep 19, 2009)

*Re: (adaptorman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *adaptorman* »_but regards compression , this is correct for a 8.5.1 headspacer drop , as it shows 8 

If you test a stock N/A engine it shows about 14 bar, so I think 8 bar is pretty low even for a low comp. engine. I don't know, maybe I don't remember well. Maybe some others should post


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## killacoupe (Jun 3, 2002)

*Re: (S3.2)*

have you used the same oil pump threw all the spun bearing motors?


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## adaptorman (Dec 12, 2007)

*Re: (killacoupe)*

no all the engines had there oringal oil pumps , as ive a feeling its the 5/40 oil ive been useing which carnt cope








has i bought a r32 engine







which had the same crank problem spun bearings
as i basicly wanted to know the correct oil for turbo use , and are extenal oil coolers really help, 



_Modified by adaptorman at 8:48 PM 1-17-2010_


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## mcdub (Jun 19, 2005)

Cool thing would be to get us pics of eny crank bearings that aren't in pieces ???
I've herd of a couple r32 ( enything 24v ) under boost blowing.pretty sure mintgti sold his after rebuilding it cause it went.The 24v blocks are known to be soft.
Local ones here explode,always having to do with the crank.
Imo its a matter of crank walk like the old DSM 1g/2g talons.
And why ??? pretty sure if you read the hole r36 build,theres talk about cranks,and how vw used different metals from the mk3 vrs to the mk4 vrs to the R block.
even the mk5 is made if diff material the crank ( cheaper and cheaper stuff cause its cheaper obvi ) 
The blocks aren't made of the same material or thickness as the old ones.
imo,its a matter of cheaper material and walk failure to keep that damn crank in check and strait before all hell breaks loose.And some rod decides to say hello to you or us on picture.
And enyone with over 400whp imo on a block that doesn't come with a girdle stock should get one.It can sometimes prevent **** like that,even if its just a stupid sheet of cut metal and some longer bolts.
Set of main bearings cap are KEY aswell.Keeping that sucker in line and check under boost is the key.
read the bearings,they dont lie. 
12v is godlike.And they are so cheaper to build now too.I cant wait to get a garage again.


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## kevhayward (Mar 13, 2007)

*Re: (adaptorman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *adaptorman* »_it was 5/40w fully systhic carlube









That could be part of your problem.
Try a better quality ester based oil, such as Silkolene Pro S or Motul 300V.


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## mcdub (Jun 19, 2005)

*Re: (adaptorman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *adaptorman* »_no all the engines had there oringal oil pumps , as ive a feeling its the 5/40 oil ive been useing which carnt cope








has i bought a r32 engine







which had the same crank problem spun bearings
as i basicly wanted to know the correct oil for turbo use , and are extenal oil coolers really help, 

_Modified by adaptorman at 8:48 PM 1-17-2010_


Honnestly,I worked in the oil department for over 3 years,and learn't allot about lubrication,break down,and temperature.

1 thing I will say,is you guys are nuts using stock application grade on boosted cars.Specially in the united states were its even hotter.
You should run atleast 5w50 sythetic.Or 20w50 to 25w50 racing oil DESIGNED for HIGH heat,drag racing,track racing,designed for supercharged,turbocharged,nitrous,nytro methane etc. use.
I will try my hardest to go back to the old job and take a photo of the back of the bottle for you guys.
Oil coolers DO work.But ill be honnest,will it fix you crank bearings eating block explode 24v style vr6 engine.PRobably not.
Get a 12v.they are cheap to build and the best.
Im not trying to knock you or your ****.
Its just everyone locally or shops building them.They always fail atleast 1.And im reading more and more people with 24v style blocks failing.
Good luck.Think of your money,maybe its time to pull out.


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## adaptorman (Dec 12, 2007)

some great advise here guys , and ive decided to scrap the 4motion/r32 turbos , and try a 12v , engine , with some oil meationed above (mcdub) and make another turbo exhuast manifold and short runner , and see what happernds from there , and fingers crossed , i hope the cranks lasts a bit longer


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## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (adaptorman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *adaptorman* »_i bought a cheep vr6 lump from a ford , thing is , do i have the crank and new bearings fitted into the 24v moter , or adapt this with a headspacer and make a couple of manifolds
quick pic here









i want your valve cover http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## silverstoned83 (Feb 16, 2009)

*Re: (adaptorman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *adaptorman* »_i bought a cheep vr6 lump from a ford , thing is , do i have the crank and new bearings fitted into the 24v moter , or adapt this with a headspacer and make a couple of manifolds
quick pic here









VW put a VR6 in a ford??


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## adaptorman (Dec 12, 2007)

lol yearh its a slightly later engine , but basicly the same apart from , it has the same crank pulley as the mk4,and ford logo and a black plastic rocker cover, it was from a ford gaxley automatic
GALAXY ALHAMBRA SHARAN GOLF 2.8 CD-VR6 these have it fitted too in the u.k










_Modified by adaptorman at 9:13 PM 1-19-2010_


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## mcdub (Jun 19, 2005)

*Re: (adaptorman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *adaptorman* »_some great advise here guys , and ive decided to scrap the 4motion/r32 turbos , and try a 12v , engine , with some oil meationed above (mcdub) and make another turbo exhuast manifold and short runner , and see what happernds from there , and fingers crossed , i hope the cranks lasts a bit longer

good move.Doesn't mean you cant couple your 02M to your 12v and use your haldex!!!
So I didn't go back to my old job cause well me and this 1 boss....
but however I found on the net wat I promised you.
Now now,I know its pennzoil.But they are actually one of the leading biggest oil compagnies out there,and always have.And its oil,it all comes from the EARTH ENYWAY.
Now,I used to use this stuff im my 3rd gen camaro.Its actually not for resale,and you can only order it in cases ( custom orders for drag guys etc. ) 








but the important thing is wat it says on the back wich is this.
PENNZOIL� GT PERFORMANCE� RACING OIL is designed for the lubrication of high-performance competition engines. It is fortified with superior additives and oils which resist breakdown under the high loads, temperatures and speeds experienced by fast revving engines.
PENNZOIL� GT PERFORMANCE� RACING OIL is compounded to be compatible with a variety of competition fuels including gasoline, methanol, nitromethane and diesel fuels. It can be used in engines that are turbocharged or supercharged as well as naturally aspirated.
PENNZOIL� GT PERFORMANCE� RACING OIL protects cylinder walls, pistons, bearings and valve train components beyond the levels of conventional passenger car oils. Friction reducing agents incorporated into the formulation assure that maximum horsepower is obtained from the engine

I worked in this business for a long time.No other compagny has that on eny bottle.
Only other oil makers out there I even trust for a vw.
Is.
ELF,LIQUI-MOLY and motul.
Now before a bunch of you guys start knocking pennzoil ( wich I dont rlly care you just look stupid ) cause of its americana name.
Pennzoil came in second on the scratch test rating wen they compared all the big names.First came in AMZOIL.
Only reason I dont like amzoil,is cause of there "toss your oil in a nd forget for 50 000km ) oil.Wich I dont care,that **** is going to break down.
Just your quick little oil class of today.I also have this good link saved about oil and lubrication ( wich I sent to my old boss cause allot of that staff doesn't know dick sqwat ) 
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...id=55 
Lots of good stuff and info on there.
Hope this will help you and others out with your oil.


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## adaptorman (Dec 12, 2007)

great write up there pal ,,, only thing can i buy this in the u.k , never heard of it , or what oil would u recomend for my 24v v6 for raceing ,,
ps i can still use the 02m gearbox on the 12v lump ,,,so ill still have 4wd


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## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (mcdub)*

i had a guy tell me that pensoil came from Pennsylvania & the rock their provided an extra filtration that didn't happen anywhere else








& that's why he used it in air cooled por-shas
interesting insight into synthetic oil burning...



_Modified by EL DRIFTO at 4:47 AM 1-31-2010_


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## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*

I have seen many engines burned up with pennzoil and I know others that have as well. Personally I wouldn't touch the stuff, period


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## kevhayward (Mar 13, 2007)

*Re: (adaptorman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *adaptorman* »_what oil would u recomend for my 24v v6 for raceing ,,

Millers CFS 10W/60 or Motul 300V 15W/50
Both are Polyolester blends. The best engine lubricant there is.


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## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

*Re: (KubotaPowered)*

i've heard more hoopla over pensoil than any
when i was 20, it was THE oil that plauged up engines
then i saw allot of podium finishes
sometimes the whole podium with pensoil filled cases
SAE says it's oil, so i use ***mart
just a 1/4 quart top off will keep the detergents going over a long time


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## adaptorman (Dec 12, 2007)

*Re: (kevhayward)*

ive heard good reports about millers oil , so ill give it a try ,,,


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## mcdub (Jun 19, 2005)

*Re: (KubotaPowered)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KubotaPowered* »_I have seen many engines burned up with pennzoil and I know others that have as well. Personally I wouldn't touch the stuff, period

_Quote, originally posted by *KubotaPowered* »_I have seen many engines burned up with pennzoil and I know others that have as well. Personally I wouldn't touch the stuff, period

Thats fine,I am not talking about their regular oil either.
My general point I was trying to get accross,was that almost ALL synthetic oils.Will burn up under eny non stock system.We have had the same customer come in and order box's for their 800hp supercharged foxbody,and well if it works in that,itl work in a turbo vw.
Some other clients used that stuff in their boats with twin bbc's.
Enyway to each his own.And personally I wouldn't run eny pennzoil product eccept the 25w50 and I would if I was having thermal break down ishues and lots of heat.
Pennzoil has the name liberty bell indeed because it orriginated in pennsylvania.
they are now owned by shell and operate in texas,the state were everything is bigger and better.

the point is the scratch tests dont lie.It comes down to you if you want to beleive the truth or lie to yourself.I dont care








only sythetics I would use like I said,ELF,LIQUI MOLY and boarder line motul.
But hey there all man made,and come from the earth like all the other oil








And kubota,honnestly,its the filter that plays the BIG difference.I would NEVER use a pennzoil filter or eny generic brand for that matter.
Pennzoil used to have the good oil filters with the valves in em,now the new ones for vw applicants dont even have them,and meny other makers same.
You have to buy oem filters for these cars.But meny of you know this golden rule allready.
Aswell as,no engine lasts forever trully.And everything has a tolerance limit.Nothing is indestructible.


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## mcdub (Jun 19, 2005)

*Re: (EL DRIFTO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EL DRIFTO* »_i've heard more hoopla over pensoil than any
when i was 20, it was THE oil that plauged up engines
then i saw allot of podium finishes
sometimes the whole podium with pensoil filled cases
SAE says it's oil, so i use ***mart
just a 1/4 quart top off will keep the detergents going over a long time

bingo.
the muscle car guys love em for a reason.
If I recall that crazy ass toyota celiCa with the toyota 2.2 block they use for rallye racing has pennzoil all over the ****ing car.and it works.
The point is,it really comes down to a personel preferance like enything else.
I recomended the use of 25w50,not the basic 5w30 that joe blows run everyday lol.
PRoper ventilation is a other KEY element people over look for oil ( depending on your conditions of living ) 
Un-proper venting of crankcase will cause the oil to condensate and will case ot to break down urlier and easier.always your getting sells of water in your oil....wich is BAD.Just like GASOLINE getting threw the rings thats a BIG cause of BEARING FAILURE.
[email protected] celina loool gotta get that girl out my head








enyway,personally I would dump LIQUI MOLY and ELF before meny of the others.
I only suggested the 25w50 for the obvious reason that I stated.
Keep us updated.

and just a other quick edit,blocks going because of block oil passages ???? this is defenetly not a domestic v8 style engine.
If you are speaking of vw's ??? Make sure those engines weren't new and sandblasted.
Lots of people make the mistake of sandblasted/bead blasting vw blocks,and the sand tends to accumulate in the passages and blocking them.
And you tend to realise wen the engine is first started,oh **** wats going on!!!.I've herd this from numerous reputable machine shops here who have dealt with all kinds of engines.
A gm block you can blast the **** out of it,have you seen how big the galleries are on one of those sum bitchs








_Modified by mcdub at 5:12 PM 1-21-2010_


_Modified by mcdub at 5:16 PM 1-21-2010_


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## mcdub (Jun 19, 2005)

*Re: (mcdub)*

And just 1 more,because I never front








Had to ask my jdm toyota friend
Rob says:
the pikes peak one
ptriz would like to smoke says:
thank you good sir
Rob says:
3sgte
Rob says:
3sgtte i believe
Rob says:
at least that's what they had in the tacoma pikes peak truck
ptriz would like to smoke says:
yeah its a 2.2 or some **** eh ?
Rob says:
yep
Rob says:
twin turbo
Rob says:
1000hp
ptriz would like to smoke says:
yeah it rips tits
Rob says:
and it weighs nothing
ptriz would like to smoke says:
space frame with carbon id hope so 
Rob says:
well that too, but i mean the motor is ultra light as well
Rob says:
1000kg the whoel thing weighsi think
loving tha UR in the backround !!!!









http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aF_Kbxj-h5I
the tacoma vid is just ****ing brutal 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQ7gFfWZKWU
oh **** wats on the side there















So,I would just like to say,and state.
If pennzoil works in these cars and types of applications.I dont see why not in your turbo r32.
Im just trying to state from wat others say. "it doesn't work and sucks" wen rlly it comes from the earth like eny other oil








I have chronic bronkitis,Ill be here all week





























And p.s,all comes down to wat your obviously more comfortable with.


_Modified by mcdub at 5:30 PM 1-21-2010_


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## Dub Doctor (Jul 17, 2009)

*Re: (mcdub)*

3 cranks bearing failures?...... That considered, have you had the block align bored? Are you checking the bearing clearances when you put it together? Re-using old main bolts? Torquing in the correct order to the correct specs? There is something VERY wrong with this.
Hardly anybody is running an external oil cooler or dry sump and plenty of people are doing over 600whp now. I'm only doing dry sump because of the alcohol in my fuel, the extra volume helps. The 12v is a good choice because it is cheap to modify but I wouldn't give up on the 24v.


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