# DIY: Snow Performance Water Meth Kit



## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*First Write Up...Check It: Snow Performance Water Meth Kit - Install Inside*

So I decided about 2 weeks ago that the next big mod for my Wolfsburg 1.8t would be the SnowPerformance Water Meth Injection Kit. I also bought the Dual Nozzle Mount Kit from Scott at USRT. He's a great guy, very very helpful! While installing the kit I took lots of pictures and decided to to a brief write up on what it took to install. Also I recieved lots of help from SAVwKO as well! Props to both!








*Also check out...*
HSTuning
USRT
.....................................................
Now... lets get started!
First thing I did was remove the battery cover, HID ballasts, and intake filter. 

The next step was removing the front bumper and grill. For me there were 2 screws holding the corners of the grill, and some adhesive strip across the bottom. Theres the 4 hex screws under each wheel well, and 3 across the front under the grill. Then slide the bumper forward and remove the bulbs out of the corner markers. It looks like thiswhen youre done... 




You can see in the third picture the space infront of the wheel well.. Thats where I decided to mount the pump. 
Next I mounted the control box on the fender side of the battery cover. I threaded the holes on the control box and used a screw from the inside out.


With the control box mounted I moved on to pump mounting. I chose the drivers side under the frame rail. With all 4 rubber bumpers seated on the framerail I simply used an adjustable clamp to secure it around the pump. Much easier than drilling and having to get a nut on the back side (Inside the Framerail). The pump is just as secure as if I screwed it on. 


Next I removed the washer fluid resovwar for modification and use with the kit. There are 2 plastic blots holding it into place. One on the top towards the fender, and one on the bottom on the framerail. Then disconnect the 2 sensors and youre good to remove it. Heres a picture with it out...


And a different angle...
 
With the resovwar out I drilled the appropriate size hole in the bottom in the middle of the rubber grommet. Installed the threaded hose adapter (The real name slipped my mind... sorry.) Make sure to fill the grommet with "goo" sealant. It took a little while for the goo to dry so in the meantime I installed the solenoid. 
Heres a pic of the resovwar installed again. 


Installing the solenoid was fairly easy. Drilled a small hole in the metal under the framerail and used some threadlock on the screw securing it up to the top. 


I tucked the pressure tube under the front of the car. If you reach over the edge behind the latch mechanism you can feel where it goes under... Thats where I tucked it. 



Now lets begin wiring the control box... I like to have ONE nice clean harnes so Im going to describe how I did that. First off... there are 4 colored wires coming from the control box... 
YELLOW: Unused
RED: Ignition... 12v
GREEN: Goes to RED wire coming from the pump
BLACK: Ground

I cut the yellow wire shortly after tucking it into the shielding. So now you have a GREEN and BLACK wire going down. The green wire meets up with the red wire from the pump, and also either BLACK wire from the SOLENOID. 
Now you have 3 grounds left...
-Control Box GROUND
-Pump GROUND
-Solenoid GROUND
I bundled all three of them together and grounded them on the same metal that secures the solenoid. 
With that done we move onto the LED inside, and Ignition 12v. I brought the wires in through the same hole in the firewall that I used to bring power to the sound system so it was fairly easy. The best way is to use a metal coat hanger with a small string on the end. Simply fish it through the hole, then use the string to tie the wire to the end of the hanger... then just pull it back. I used a wire tap to get power from the GREEN wire. 

Now... as for the supplied GREEN LED... I didnt like the face that the kit comes with GREEN... Nothing else in the car is GREEN, it just looks ghetto to say the least. I decided to take a trip to Radioshack lol. For less than $4 I was set up with a new BLUE Super Bright LED and a Holder. There have also been ALOT of problems with people putting in the LED and having it not work. Heres the thing... 
LEDs like the supplied one run at about 3.7 volts. When the pump turns on the GREEN wire that you tapped into is going to supply the LED with 12 volts of power... Thats about 3x the MAX power. More than enough to fry it instantly. What you need to do is get a 470ohm 1/2w resistor and wire that in before the LED. (Will update with more pics soon). My camera was having trouble so Ill try to get more pictures tomorrow lol. 

I placed the LED inside next to the center consol guages, and got it all wired up. 12v on one side with the wired resistor, and the other side goes to ground! 

Heres the finished product...

I am waiting to get the Passenger side intercooler pipe bung welded tomorrow mourning so I can mount the nozzle there and also in the Throttle Body. I will finish the write up tomorrow and hopefully get some logs posted up the day after! Keep an eye on this thread for updates in the next couple of days! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
While waiting for the welding I also cleaned and polished my FMIC, and te piping... as well as painted the radiator supports black to make it a little harder to see behind the grill. I also got new couplers to replace the faded blue/green/brownish ones that were on there...



Polishing the NOS sprayer...


Painting the radiator supports too









All back together... Sooooo much more shiney! Love it!


If anyone has any questions feel free to ask away. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 



_Modified by MK4WolfsburgJetta at 2:12 PM 9-12-2008_


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## Dilemmah (Jun 27, 2002)

*Re: DIY: Snow Performance Water Meth Kit (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

first post http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## GLI_jetta (Jan 3, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Snow Performance Water Meth Kit - Install Inside (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

sick write up........ I will def be using it when i get my kit... eventually


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## BOOSTINDUB (Jun 17, 2005)

nice write upppppppp


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## Budsdubbin (Jul 14, 2008)

*Re: (BOOSTINDUB)*

I like the writeup what intercooler is that it looks like a nice fit.


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (Budsdubbin)*

Its a godspeed FMIC, 28x6x2.5... Fits PERFECTLY! The tubing is perfectly centered in the cut outs. I love it!
PicForClicks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
 
Ik... Fill the hood notch lol.


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

Scott if youre reading this i could use some more pressure tube. Preferibly BLUE... If not blue some more red will be ok! Thanks! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## judoGTI (Mar 5, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Def a good write up! I would of come over and helped knowing that you are in Titusville.


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (judoGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *judoGTI* »_Def a good write up! I would of come over and helped knowing that you are in Titusville.

No Kidding. Im still waiting on more pressure tube to finish it up. I need to get some welding done on the IC pipe after the intercooler too. I tested the LED and all my wiring tonight. Its all works GREAT. The resistors definitely do the trick with the LED the kit comes with... I also re-wired the plastic CRAP off of my fuel rail. Going to post pics possibly later tonight... if not, tomorrow. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Water/Meth Install ***Part 2****

So after finishing up the install I am very very happy with the results! The car feels like a bat out of hell, and I havent even advanced the timing yet! This has definitely been my favorite mod to this day! Later this week I will be posting timing logs later this week so be paitent... I would also like to once again thank Scott at USRT for giving me such a great deal on not only all his products, but the endless bank of knowledge about water/methanol injection! Seriously check out their site! I also want to thank SAVwKO for lots of advice on my install aswell. Props to both! Now lets finish this project... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
The next step for me was to install the throttle plate adapter that came with the kit. I dont have a million pics of the install, because its pretty self explanatory. Simply remove the 4 bolts secureing the TB, and pull it away from the intake maniifold enough to slip in the throttle plate adapter (TPA). Make sure you gave a gasket on both sides of the new TPA for an air tight seal. Once the TB is securely mounted again usung the supplied LONGER bolts I applied a little Goop th the threads of the nozzle and threaded it down in there. Heres some completed pics... 



Now all that was left was to get the bung welded to the passenger side IC pipe. Removed it once again and got a buddy to drive me to BTs Welding. These guys are awesome! I was in and out in 15min and they charged me $11.00! Couldnt beat that! Re-install the IC pipe and with a little Goop on the threads youre ready to mount that second nozzle. Sorry the pics came out a little blurry, but you get the idea.



I next ran the nylon tube the same rout as from the resovwar to the pump, now only from the solenoud to the T. The T then splits the tube to go to both nozzles. Heres some more pics of the finished install. 


So with that done I got a little bored. It was raining and night, and not really a good time to test the set up. I decided to clean up the Fuel Rail a little bit. Basically took off that plastic guide that the that wire harness sits in and hid it. Disconnected the MAP sensor on the IC, there was a sensor on the TB, I think a cam position sensor, and a couple more... cant remember. But point is I disconnected them all and hid the wires under the fuel rail. I used some wire shielding to still keep them safe from the heat. Heres a pictire before... 

And heres the after shots...



IMO looks soooo much cleaner. Just a little of the Mothers polish and some elbow grease got me all shined up! 
And heres a couple better pics of the inside LED and gauges. Then tied into the pics of my new racing seats...






And what write up would not be complete without a little WHOREING lol



***EDIT***
So I just re-did the controll box to read MAF signal due to the fact that with BOOST signal it would NOT turn the spray on until about 9-10psi no matter how low I had the controll box set at... all I can say is WOW! I was turning the pump on just touching the gas pedal when I had it set to 1.5v! Crazy! Its super touchy, but once I got it dialed in it was great. I set the "full on" all the way up at 5v, and "initial on" at about 3v... Going to delete all my logs, and re-do them with it starting at 0* advance, and the go from there! tomorrow though... Im very tired lol. 

Oh BTW.... If your looking into what wire to tap its the BLACK one #5.










_Modified by MK4WolfsburgJetta at 10:46 PM 9-10-2008_


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## judoGTI (Mar 5, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Looks good man, no problem closing the hood with that nozzle so high?
Do you not have a washer fluid res now?
How fast are you going through a tank? PRobably dont know that quite yet, but keep us posted. 
I meant to call Scott a few weeks ago but unexpected bills so I get to wait...


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (judoGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *judoGTI* »_Looks good man, no problem closing the hood with that nozzle so high?
Do you not have a washer fluid res now?
How fast are you going through a tank? PRobably dont know that quite yet, but keep us posted. 
I meant to call Scott a few weeks ago but unexpected bills so I get to wait...









Thanks dude! 
No problems closing the hood although at first I thought I might... 
I have been advanceing the timing and getting some logs the last 2 days... meaning alot of WOT and I havent even gone through a quarter tank. 
And as for the washer fluid... first I never used that. I wash the car enough to keep the bugs off, or I use windex or something, but if I were in a crises situation, I found out that most washer fluid contains meth anyways... alot of ppl just spray -20 washer fluid. I chose the 50% distilled water and 50% Heet (basically its 99% methanol). It works great!1 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by MK4WolfsburgJetta at 8:26 PM 9-8-2008_


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

First 2 logs with a 3* advance and the pump coming on at 12psi. Not too good...


These 2 are with the same 3* advance, but the pump coming on at 9psi... 


Im going to re-adjust tomorrow and see if I can get ALL the timing pull to go away. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

Nice write up. Why did you choose to go with 2 nozzles? Why one in the TB and one in the IC piping? Sorry, just curious


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

The one after the IC gets me the best cooling, and the one after the TB is best for keeping predetonation down... With one nozzle you have to pick which one you want more of. I wanted both aspects so I went with 2 nozzles... plus it looks awesome


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## Budsdubbin (Jul 14, 2008)

*Re: (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

heet is more like 40% methanol I remember looking into it.


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## [email protected] (Jan 13, 2005)

*Re: (Budsdubbin)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Budsdubbin* »_heet is more like 40% methanol I remember looking into it. 

This is incorrect. The percentage is 99%. Here's is the Material Safety Data Sheet for the product. The 1% of "extra" stuff increases the specific gravity and facilitates settling to the bottom of the gas tank. There it finds water into which it mixes so as to protect the fuel lines from icing solid during winter. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## NOLA_VDubber (May 24, 2007)

*Re: ([email protected])*

^That's a cool little factoid lol


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## Budsdubbin (Jul 14, 2008)

*Re: ([email protected])*

glad thats cleared up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## judoGTI (Mar 5, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Scott is also made of 99% methanol. Strange but true.


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## Vr6Heathen (Mar 3, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (judoGTI)*

Nice write up, I'd like to see what supporting mods you have and maybe some before and after dynos. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Vr6Heathen)*

Where to start lol....
APR 93 octain file
K03s Turbo
Silverline 3" exhaust (catless)
3" downpipe
Samco TIP
FMIC
NOS Intercooler Mister
Lemmiwinks Tuned Advanced Timing
Water/Meth
I think thats about it performance wise.... some other small stuff that doest really add hp... Catch can, BOV..... etc.


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

Reply to Egis PM http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
First of all... have you logged block 020 on vag-com...? Thats the block that moniters your timing pull. What COULD be happening is you advanced 4.5*, but the ECU freaks out and pulls timing lets say 8*. So in reality, even though you advance the timing 4.5* youre really at a 3.5* retarding. That may be why you feel no power difference. Thats the boat Im in right now. Im actually in the shop working on it lol. 
1. Do you have your controller set up on the Boost reading, or MAF reading? 
2. Are you on your stock turbo?


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

New logs since I switched to the MAF reference for the control box. It is much more responsive. There is no doubt in my mind that with a small fast spooling turbo such as my k03s, this is the way to go! Not the boost reference. Boost reference is better used in big turbo set ups. 
For the tuning I went back to start... 
Heres a log of my APR 93 octain file, 0* timing advance. 

Im going to start advancing it this afternoon. More logs to come! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Budsdubbin (Jul 14, 2008)

*Re: (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

I learned that aswell now put it on 100oct. already and really push it!


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (Budsdubbin)*

Haha if I could find some http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## egis (Feb 23, 2007)

*Re: (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

reply to MK4WolfsburgJetta
1.I have MAF based,stage 2 snow perform kit.
2.Yes i'm on stock ko3 sport turbo. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
and because i don't have my own vag-com i don't remember the loggs of block 020.Polskihetzen helped me to do the work.i can ask him what's the deal.











_Modified by egis at 6:55 PM 9-11-2008_


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (egis)*

ORIGINAL POST: (egis) hi guy.I would like to ask you about that snow performance stage 2 kit(MAF).I have the same kit, i advanced my timing 4.5 degree and to be honest with you,i feel no difference.I was on the drag strip and my time is about the same.What you think should i add more boost to feel the benefits of snow or what?did you increased your boost?i have all bolt-ons like you except i run high flow cat.your help would appreciated.
....................................................
Heres what Im thinking. Couple of things.... 
First of all, you HAVE to have a vag-com running on your car when youre advancing timing. This is a must! Although you have a w/m kit to supress detonation... youre really just advancing blindly. That can be dangerous. In my case, the w/m was coming on too late and my car was pulling tons of timing. So it felt weak. 
*I would put your timing back to 0* and start with a log with no w/m. You could be potentially hurting your car right now with a 4.5* advance...* 
You have to get a baseline, before and after picture.
Also, what size nozzles are you running... Im using the 175ml after the IC, and the 100 after the TB. If youre combine nozzle size is much more than 250ml you are probably using too much w/m for the ammount of air going into your motor. And the one after the TB should be the smaller of the two. You could always turn the pump pressure down. If the car lags, theres a good chance thats whats happening... Again, get a vag-com on there and see EXACTLY whats going on... otherwise its just "guessing". No real facts. Ill be advancing timing on my car tomorrow mourning when it gets a little hotter out. Ill post logs after that. 
It could also be that the car is pulling more timing than you put in, so in effect making it slower. But once more... only a vag-com can tell you whats really going on. 
Keep me posted dude! Well get it done my friend. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## [email protected] (Jan 13, 2005)

*Re: (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *egis* »_i advanced my timing 4.5 degree and to be honest with you,i feel no difference. I was on the drag strip and my time is about the same.What you think should i add more boost to feel the benefits of snow or what?

No scan tool = groping around in the dark guessing. The butt dyno is not sufficient to fine tuning with WAI. Period. Secondly, if you're not turning up the boost you're missing more than half the point. Crank it up and then advance the timing to dial it in.


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## oj1480 (Jun 6, 2006)

*Re: First Write Up...Check It: Snow Performance Water Meth Kit - Install Inside (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

shiit, hid drop-in ??







http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


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## judoGTI (Mar 5, 2002)

*Re: First Write Up...Check It: Snow Performance Water Meth Kit - Install Inside (oj1480)*


_Quote, originally posted by *oj1480* »_shiit, hid drop-in ??







http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 

Beat it troll.


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_No scan tool = groping around in the dark guessing. The butt dyno is not sufficient to fine tuning with WAI. Period. Secondly, if you're not turning up the boost you're missing more than half the point. Crank it up and then advance the timing to dial it in.


Agreed. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
You will feel the most gains from advanced timing, and more boost! Although colder intake temps help... you wont feel too much of a difference!


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

Here they are... My friend Josh (dubkid) and I decided to go out tonight and see what we could do with the timing. Here are the logs... Ended TONIGHT with a 4.5* advance on a 4th gear pull. Im going to tune the pump a little more and see what I can do tomorrow. Stay posted. 
Scott, what do you think...? Any advice to get some more out of it...? Thanks!










http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## [email protected] (Jan 13, 2005)

*Re: (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

Sam, can you display your graph with air flow volume plotted on the same axis and simultaneously with rpm? Showing them superimposed would be very helpful. Secondly, what ratio of water/methanol are you using? Third, you did these runs with the pump pressure held at the same as before (when you were using MAP input) or is it higher/lower?


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Sam, can you display your graph with air flow volume plotted on the same axis and simultaneously with rpm? Showing them superimposed would be very helpful. Secondly, what ratio of water/methanol are you using? Third, you did these runs with the pump pressure held at the same as before (when you were using MAP input) or is it higher/lower?

WHat block is the air flow volume so I can graph that with the rpm? Also in the PM you mentioned something about engine load...? 
I tried to get as close to 50/50 as possible, but I believe Im running a little more water than meth... about 60/40. 
And yes these runs were done at 150 psi on the pump. 
Thanks!


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## [email protected] (Jan 13, 2005)

*Re: (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MK4WolfsburgJetta* »_
WHat block is the air flow volume so I can graph that with the rpm? 

I've got seconds before I must run to an appointment. Somebody else can instruct you on that one.

_Quote »_Also in the PM you mentioned something about engine load...?

Engine load is best measured by the volume of air passing through MAF, so let's see that information superimposed on RPM.


_Quote »_I tried to get as close to 50/50 as possible, but I believe Im running a little more water than meth... about 60/40.

In order to make meaningful comparisons and to do scientific analysis you must restrict the amount of variables. The ratio of water/methanol is critical. If it's changing from one test session to another the data you're collecting cannot fairly be comprared. Any analysis we do willl be unreliable.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

Anyone chime in about what block to log engine load on? Is it block 002?


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## egis (Feb 23, 2007)

*Re: ([email protected])*

reply to [email protected] and MK4WolfsburgJetta.
thanks fellas for help.firstible i run just one 175 ml/min nozzle before the TB ,like 6" before TB.i know without having the vag-com it's just guessing but i'm telling you what i know."Butt dyno" it's just funny







.
and also i know that i have to increase the boost.But again, i saw a lot of threads about how it's bad for your stock turbo if you adding the boost more than your chip adding.it can overspin your turbo.correct me if i'm wrong.i gladly would crank my wastegate or add boost using the boost controller but i'm afraid to screw up something.So it's look like i've been lying to myself about "my car is much faster".








thanks guys again for help


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (egis)*

Well if you look at my logs above you see a significant drop in intake temperatures! Thats always a plus. But the majority of the gains are from advanced timing and more boost. Let me ask, what tuning do you have, and how much boost do you hold? Im running APR 93, and Im spiking about 20psi and holding 18-19psi till about 5000rpm. The turbo can put out a little more without problems. The reason no1 does it accept the W/M guys is because anything over 20psi its just blowing HOT air. Its completely pointless... but with W/M you are able to turn up the boost and still get those much desired COLD intake temps! As for timing... I have heard that you get anywhere from 7-12hp per degree you advance (JUST SPECULATION NOT REAL FACTS)... meaning I didnt say that nor do I have dyno results to confirm... Im just saying what I have read. But between those 3 aspects (colder intake temps, more boost, and more timing) you are able to FEEL your results. Im feeling it. Still need to dial in the controller a little more and turn up the boost. Ill be using an electronic boost controller. Im already at a 4.5* advance... so idk how much farther Ill be able to go with that. We'll see though. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Its ok to have high hopes about stuff, but the only real magical, snap your neck, throw you back in the seat, how am I already doing 120, potion is going to be Nitrous... Theres NOTHING like it. 


_Modified by MK4WolfsburgJetta at 6:14 PM 9-13-2008_


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...27043
Everyone check this out!


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## egis (Feb 23, 2007)

*Re: (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

thanks for your time man,i'll do this also http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
oh, and to answer you previous question i run GIAC+ 93 octane..Boost spikes to 20psi and holds at 15-17psi.










_Modified by egis at 5:34 PM 9-15-2008_


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (egis)*


_Quote, originally posted by *egis* »_thanks for your time man

No problem dude. Thats what this thread is for lol http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Let me know if you have any more questions!


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

I worked on a setup with a friend... and we're a little concerned about how it turned out. It was a Snow Stg2 - but it was only the boost pressure controller. We hooked everything up and the pump sprays and everything (checked it while the car was parked by unplugging it and jumping it to the batt). The issue is that whenever we're driving - I believe the pressure is start @ 8psi and full by 14-15psi - it doesn't seem like anything is happening. The car is still pulling timing before we even added any. We only have a couple of ideas - the controller is junk. The controller is not reading boost at the same psi that the car/gauge is (doesn't seem all that likely). Or, the nozzle is mounted too low and the WM isn't getting into the engine - the car has a silicone TB hose, so the nozzle is in the metal pipe that the TB hose clamps on to - APR FMIC setup. Any thoughts? TIA!


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## [email protected] (Jan 13, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Let me guess... you've got a K03 or K04 turbo, right? If so, you need to go to MAF control because the turbo spools faster than the MAP input can deal with it. Once you go with a a turbo bigger than a GT28 it makes sense to take MAP input.
Implement the correct parts and you'll have a fine time. Btw, what size nozzle/s do you have and where are they located?


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Let me guess... you've got a K03 or K04 turbo, right? If so, you need to go to MAF control because the turbo spools faster than the MAP input can deal with it. Once you go with a a turbo bigger than a GT28 it makes sense to take MAP input.
Implement the correct parts and you'll have a fine time. Btw, what size nozzle/s do you have and where are they located?


k04-02x turbo. 225 ml nozzle. It's right below the TB pipe as that's the only metal before/near the TB. It didn't even seem like the pump was running at all?


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## [email protected] (Jan 13, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_k04-02x turbo. 225 ml nozzle. It's right below the TB pipe as that's the only metal before/near the TB. It didn't even seem like the pump was running at all?

The pump isn't running because it's not getting a signal from the controller. The controller doesn't do anything until it sees boost pressure. Switch to MAF input and you'll have a much better time.
As for the nozzle solution, I'm going to help you with that, too. What size fuel injectors are you running? What pressure fpr do you have? How many pounds of boost do you peak at?


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
The pump isn't running because it's not getting a signal from the controller. The controller doesn't do anything until it sees boost pressure. Switch to MAF input and you'll have a much better time.
As for the nozzle solution, I'm going to help you with that, too. What size fuel injectors are you running? What pressure fpr do you have? How many pounds of boost do you peak at?


I'm running 415cc injectors @ 4 bar (like 470cc or something?). The setup peaks 23.xx psi and is holding like 17-19psi @ redline gear dependent. Is that location ok for the nozzle - the hardpipe right below the silicone TB pipe? How much is a MAF controller? Thus far I set up 1 MAF and this 1 "MAP." The MAF was kind of a pain to set up though (on a k03s).


----------



## [email protected] (Jan 13, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_I'm running 415cc injectors @ 4 bar (like 470cc or something?).

That flow comes to about 480cc.

_Quote »_The setup peaks 23.xx psi and is holding like 17-19psi @ redline gear dependent.

Okay, if you run dual nozzles I'd do 2x 175cc at 175psi pump pressure. Put one immedaitely after the IC and the other at the TB. For a single nozzle set up, I'd do a single 375cc at 100psi and place that mid way between the IC and the TB. The dual nozzles will maximize your cooling and octane boost. It'll also work better because the droplets will be smaller.

_Quote »_How much is a MAF controller?

I can supply a controller that does both MAP and MAF (user switchable) for $159. MAP input simply isn't going to work correctly for a K03-equipped engine. What you're experiencing now is totally normal. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
That flow comes to about 480cc.
Okay, if you run dual nozzles I'd do 2x 175cc at 175psi pump pressure. Put one immedaitely after the IC and the other at the TB. For a single nozzle set up, I'd do a single 375cc at 100psi and place that mid way between the IC and the TB. The dual nozzles will maximize your cooling and octane boost. It'll also work better because the droplets will be smaller.
I can supply a controller that does both MAP and MAF (user switchable) for $159. MAP input simply isn't going to work correctly for a K03-equipped engine. What you're experiencing now is totally normal. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

Maybe I'll keep the 225 in the IC piping and then add a 175 post TB. I've been trying not to waste money on a TB spacer because I'm not keeping the stock size in the long run. Maybe I'll make my own or something.
Do you think there's an issue with where mine is currently? It's in a homemade bung that's welded basically right next to the MAP sensor in the APR IC piping. 
$160 bones is quite a lot... so I'm probably going to mess around with this controller more. I really just don't know how to tell if it's working or not - guess I'll hook up the indicator light ASAP. What's the chance that the WM is just going backwards down the piping into my IC? That's my largest concern. Also, the k04-02x flows 30-31 lbs/min or something very near that. It's pretty close to a gt28r. Is is possible that the controller could be bad - and is there a way to really check that? Thanks again for your assistance Scott. I really appreciate it. -Trevor


----------



## [email protected] (Jan 13, 2005)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Do you think there's an issue with where mine is currently?

Nope.

_Quote »_
I really just don't know how to tell if it's working or not - guess I'll hook up the indicator light ASAP

That's a good way to tell if the system is triggering. Ultimately, though, you'll want to datalog the ECU to see the effects on ignition timing. Trigger it earlier until you see the timing pull dial back "by itself".

_Quote »_What's the chance that the WM is just going backwards down the piping into my IC?

That isn't going to happen if there's air flow in the pipes.

_Quote »_Is is possible that the controller could be bad - and is there a way to really check that?

If the indicator light never comes on and you see no effect on timing then there's obviously nothing spraying. But, do proper testing and actually determine a fault before you worry about how to go about any other action.
It's my pleasure to help.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Great, thanks again for the assistance. Thus far, after jumping the pump (and the selenoid - since the nozzle is below the tank) and getting a nice flow of WM out of the tubing, I knew the pump and selenoid weren't bad. So it immediately went to the controller. FWIW, we did before and after testing and definitely knew what timing pull was in the first place w/o WMI. And it didn't seem to go away once the WMI was hooked up. Guess we'll hook up the indicator light and then see if the controller is ever sending power over to the pump/selenoid. I suspect that's the issue. I'm going to glue the vac line onto the controller to make sure it's sealing properly and then maybe mess with the start and full psi rating. At first I suspected it could be an issue running the MAP setup with a k04, but then it's much like comparing a mechanical boost gauge for a k04 vs a 30r. Both are making x psi in the piping, the only difference is volume - and the boost gauge doesn't read that. Of course, the controller may read differently somehow. Either way, thank you again. I'll make sure that the connection is entirely sound on the controller and then run the indicator light and then hook up the power and grounds again and give it a second shot. As mentioned, maybe I'll use my 175ml nozzle post TB and keep the 225 pre. I'm never really sure what the pump pressure is, but it feels weird adjusting it - as if it'll just keep increasing/decreasing without bottoming out or something. I'm going to look at it closer to make sure it's not stripped out or something. Thanks again. Sorry for 1/2 jacking the thread! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif to the OP!


----------



## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_I'm running 415cc injectors @ 4 bar (like 470cc or something?).

GOOD LORD! How??? Not being a dick... just wondering. I got raped in another thread about wanting bigger injectors or even a 4 bar FPR on my k03s. I was under the impression that a k03s isnt much smaller than a k04...? How do you run 415cc @ 4bar on a k04?

_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_Guess we'll hook up the indicator light and then see if the controller is ever sending power over to the pump/selenoid. 

Make sure you hook up a resistor or else it wont work. It will probably fry it instantly, and then you will think you have another problem since its not lighting up. These LEDs are designed for 3.7v... not the 12v that the instructions tell you to tap into! Its all outlinesd on page 1 how to do it. Super easy... you can even get a Blue one like I did. (Green doesnt match in a VDub!)

_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_I'm going to glue the vac line onto the controller to make sure it's sealing properly and then maybe mess with the start and full psi rating.

No need to glue it on there lol. Simply get the right sized hose and a zip tie. You wont be able to pull it off the nipple with plyers with a setup like I described lol. 

_Quote, originally posted by *04VDubGLI* »_At first I suspected it could be an issue running the MAP setup with a k04, but then it's much like comparing a mechanical boost gauge for a k04 vs a 30r. Both are making x psi in the piping, the only difference is volume - and the boost gauge doesn't read that. Of course, the controller may read differently somehow.

What Scott was refering to here is that the MAP setting cant realize whats happening fast enough when reading boost pressure. Big turbos spool WAY slower so it has time to react. I had mine set ALL the way down and it would come on at 9psi. NEVER any faster. Also doesnt your controller already have the option to read from MAP or MAF??? Or did you get the stage 1 kit? 
Anyways, the MAF setup is SUPER precise! I love it that way soo much more than MAP. I believe its also on page 1 how to tap into the MAF wire... again SUPER EASY!
....................................
BTW definitely not bashing anything you said. I started this thread to NOT flame, but to learn more about WAI. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 



_Modified by MK4WolfsburgJetta at 11:45 PM 9-30-2008_


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MK4WolfsburgJetta* »_ 
GOOD LORD! How??? Not being a dick... just wondering. I got raped in another thread about wanting bigger injectors or even a 4 bar FPR on my k03s. I was under the impression that a k03s isnt much smaller than a k04...? How do you run 415cc @ 4bar on a k04?
Make sure you hook up a resistor or else it wont work. It will probably fry it instantly, and then you will think you have another problem since its not lighting up. These LEDs are designed for 3.7v... not the 12v that the instructions tell you to tap into! Its all outlinesd on page 1 how to do it. Super easy... you can even get a Blue one like I did. (Green doesnt match in a VDub!)
No need to glue it on there lol. Simply get the right sized hose and a zip tie. You wont be able to pull it off the nipple with plyers with a setup like I described lol. 
What Scott was refering to here is that the MAP setting cant realize whats happening fast enough when reading boost pressure. Big turbos spool WAY slower so it has time to react. I had mine set ALL the way down and it would come on at 9psi. NEVER any faster. Also doesnt your controller already have the option to read from MAP or MAF??? Or did you get the stage 1 kit? 
Anyways, the MAF setup is SUPER precise! I love it that way soo much more than MAP. I believe its also on page 1 how to tap into the MAF wire... again SUPER EASY!
....................................
BTW definitely not bashing anything you said. I started this thread to NOT flame, but to learn more about WAI. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
_Modified by MK4WolfsburgJetta at 11:45 PM 9-30-2008_


No problem, I know you're not bashing.
Well, to begin, I'm running a k04-02x. It's not the "run of the mill" tranverse k04. It has the highest flowing comp wheel of any "stock" k04. It flows somewhere right around 30 lb/min (not a ton, but still). It holds somewhere in the neighborhood of 17-19psi @ redline - vastly different from a k03/k03s/k04-001. There are definitely a fair number of people running 380s w/a 3" MAF on a k03s or k04-001. I'm not a big fan of running >100% injector duty cycle - which many people do with only a chip on a k03s. 
I was planning on hooking up the LED as you had mentioned. I'm going red though - I'm also sort of "hiding" it. If you look in my engine bay you literally can't see any of the WMI setup. It's pretty stealthy, so I intend to keep it as such. 
I am actually using a tiny vac hose line and it fits well, but I only could zip tie it due to the size. And hell, I figure if I glue it/epoxy it on there it'll get the best reading possible. 
I have a stg2 kit, but it's a bit older. It only has the MAP function on it. I've helped out with the newer ones and have hooked them up MAF style. The only thing I'm having issues wrapping my head around thus far are why there'd be issues with the controller on MAP. My k04 spools pretty quickly, but still not k03/k03s fast. The other thing is that it doesn't taper as sharply - which is really why I thought MAP would suck for a stock turbo. I should be able to set full @ 12-14psi and never worry about it dropping below that ever. I guess I'll have to mess around with it more once I have an indicator light. 
I think I may take Scott's advice and go to a 2 nozzle setup. I'll probably just machine myself a TB spacer and put the 175ml in there and leave the 225 in the IC piping. Thanks again for all of the suggestions/input/advice. I'm going to mess around with it this upcoming weekend and hopefully report back with something useful for others! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

What chip are you running with that turbo? Also... Idk if I have a 3" MAF or a 2.5" MAF... its seated directly into my Silicone Turbo Inlet Pipe though. Idk what my duty cycle is either right off hand... Im leaning out a little at 4500 and above, like 12's. 
Could I get more power out of a 3" MAF housing and some bigger injectors, like 380cc, and a different FPR...? Where could I even get a 3" MAF? Im ganna be getting an AEM Tru Boost soon too and set my boost at about 22psi since I have WAI and hot intake temps dont really matter anymore lol. Might need some more fuel thought. Im really trying to push my little ko3s cause Im getting BT soon. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MK4WolfsburgJetta* »_What chip are you running with that turbo? Also... Idk if I have a 3" MAF or a 2.5" MAF... its seated directly into my Silicone Turbo Inlet Pipe though. Idk what my duty cycle is either right off hand... Im leaning out a little at 4500 and above, like 12's. 
Could I get more power out of a 3" MAF housing and some bigger injectors, like 380cc, and a different FPR...? Where could I even get a 3" MAF? Im ganna be getting an AEM Tru Boost soon too and set my boost at about 22psi since I have WAI and hot intake temps dont really matter anymore lol. Might need some more fuel thought. Im really trying to push my little ko3s cause Im getting BT soon. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

I'm on a semi-custom Unitronics tune. 3" MAF housing is any VR6/TT225 housing - which does not fit a k03s silicone inlet. 12s isn't that bad - well, depending on which end of the 12s. 
I don't know if you'd be able to make a lot more power, but if nothing else you'd be a little safer IMO. The k03 just won't hold much over like 14-15psi at redline without exploding shortly after. Sawvko did a bang up job of showing what it can do. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## sexwagon (Jan 12, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

not hatin but








why all the gauges and sport seats and nitrous for your intercooler and huge fmic....
for stock turbo...
plus the nitrous misting the fmic is even overkill for stock turbo let alone the wai..
Not trying to be a smart ass, but just doesnt make sense to me.


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

Yea I talked to him alot! And Im on the wrong end of the 12's lol. Is the VR6 just plug and play? I dont quite understand the bigger MAF thing... what does it do... how does it help? And if I were to get bigger injectors, the car wont run rich right... but if it needed the extra fuel it would be there right... isnt that the idea? Thanks for the info! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (sexwagon)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sexwagon* »_not hatin but








why all the gauges and sport seats and nitrous for your intercooler and huge fmic....
for stock turbo...
plus the nitrous misting the fmic is even overkill for stock turbo let alone the wai..
Not trying to be a smart ass, but just doesnt make sense to me.

Lol no problem. The kid who had my car before me had put the intercooler sprayer on there and I hardly ever use it seeing as its $45 to fill the bottle. It didnt really do that much accept help with heatsoaking at the track. Just spray a small ammount before a run. It does make a difference! 
I wanted advanced timing so I went with WAI also!
The IC is actually quite small. Its 28x6x3, the bumper just hides it well. 
Gauges are Boost, Oil Pressure, A/F, and Nitrous Pressure. All systems I feel are important to watch. 
I got an awesome deal on the seats, and find them to look great and be very comfortable! Plus they hold me in place better than the stock seats. The 3 mile drive back into my neighborhood feels like a tokyo drift mountain or something its so damn curved lol. 
Im also contemplating a real shot of nitrous when I do rods, and BT... and as for the rest, its all setting me up for big turbo. I have alot more research to do on the nitrous thing though... just an idea right now. 
Hope that cleared everything up for you dude! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

very nice, this is on my eventual list of mods.


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## sexwagon (Jan 12, 2007)

*Re: (ejg3855)*

ya well if you go big turbo jsut ditch the intercooler and nitrous mister and get some cash, wai and a fmic are more than enough for even a gt35r.
have fun!


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## [email protected] (Jan 13, 2005)

*Re: (sexwagon)*

Sexwagon, there is absolutely no such thing as an IC that is too cold. Colder is better. Always. Period. I do say, however, that the nitrous oxide should be *injected* rather than sprayed on the core. That'd be the manly man approach. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_I do say, however, that the nitrous oxide should be *injected* rather than sprayed on the core. That'd be the manly man approach. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
















You would go there lol! 
So how can I ONE DAY make my nitrous setup into a manly setup? I assume its a lot like WAI (as in it needs a controller, nozzles, etc...) What else...? What does USRT offer as far as nitrous goes...?


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

Do I need more fuel???


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## DonSupreme (Apr 11, 2006)

Why is it requesting so little fuel... Do you have afr tweaks in lemmiwinks?


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (DonSupreme)*

I have Lemmiwinks, but havent touched it ever. More fuel wont be too bad right...? What draws the line at being "too rich"? Thanks!


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## joe'sGTI (Jun 12, 2007)

*Re: First Write Up...Check It: Snow Performance Water Meth Kit - Install Inside (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

Im thinking about doing this to my GTI. Since im out of work and will have to wait to go big turbo i would like to have something cheaper to do over the winter. 
The piping coming out of my intercooler is silicone however. Is there any way around this and still have two injection points?


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

Use the supplied nozzle mounting bung and drill into the silicon. People do it all the time.


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## [email protected] (Jan 13, 2005)

*Re: First Write Up...Check It: Snow Performance Water Meth Kit - Install Inside (joe'sGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *joe’sGTI* »_Im thinking about doing this to my GTI. Since im out of work and will have to wait to go big turbo i would like to have something cheaper to do over the winter. 
The piping coming out of my intercooler is silicone however. Is there any way around this and still have two injection points?

This is the bung that you want to use.

(click photo)
It's an extra to the basic kits, but is included in USRT's dual mount package.
Installation is as simple as putting a hole in the silicone, placing one of the plastic pieces into that hole, and then threading the other half onto that tightly. Drop the nozzle in there and you're done. (Folks can also opt to get a steel or aluminum weld on bung in that same package, but you specifically want the plastic one.) http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

Scott I PMd you a couple days ago! Did you get it?


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## Abriscoe1986 (Feb 15, 2008)

*Re: Water/Meth Install ***Part 2*** (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

this is kinda off topic back how r your megan racing seat. i was think of. get the same one. but i did not know have the would bolt up.
so is it a direct fit or. just tell me what i need. so i can get it done to.


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: Water/Meth Install ***Part 2*** (Abriscoe1986)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Abriscoe1986* »_this is kinda off topic back how r your megan racing seat. i was think of. get the same one. but i did not know have the would bolt up.
so is it a direct fit or. just tell me what i need. so i can get it done to.

I love them! They have a quick release lever so you can get ppl in the back if you have a 2 door, they are super comfortable, affordable... they seem to be really high quality. Not too heavy, but still strong. I have gotten changed in my car a few times, and had to press back hard on the seat to lift myself up, they flex a small bit, maybe an inch or so, but thats about it. As for installing them, you need brackets. I got Sparco brackets like $100 each. Bracket screws to the bottom of the seats, then fastens to the center front, and into the OEM slider tracks. You use an aftermarket slider to adjust them. 
Im really anal about my seats being lined up when you look at the car from the side, lol, so I adjusted the drivers one for me, and then lined up the passenger seat, then removed the sliders so ppl cant mess with it. If you dont like it, you can walk lol. 
I have never had to move the seat forwards and usually dont have ppl in the back to complain about leg room. Overall I love these seats! Any more questions, feel free to ask. 
I wish i did a write up on the install, but that was before I was a vortex member and I didnt take pictures. My friend and I are thinking about trading for a while, so maybe Ill do a write up then! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Abriscoe1986 (Feb 15, 2008)

*Re: Water/Meth Install ***Part 2*** (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

cool so can you still rise or low the seats. like the stock one.
you that pumping up or down motion


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

Nope. No more UP/DOWN. How do you usually run yours... I ran my OEM seats all the way down and the new Megan ones feel exactly the same. Angle and everything. They just hug your legs and mid sections much better for cornering!


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## Abriscoe1986 (Feb 15, 2008)

*Re: (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

yep i put the stock set to the floor LOL there just no better way to ride.


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (Abriscoe1986)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Abriscoe1986* »_yep i put the stock set to the floor LOL there just no better way to ride.

x2 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Brad6710 (Mar 29, 2008)

*Re: (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

How did u mount the FMIC, guessing u got it off eBay, and just was thinking how u mounted it because i thought they don't come with mounts.


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (Brad6710)*

Nope its a Godspeed IC. Basically the Ebay ones might have need slight modification to make them fit perfect, but for the most part its the same. The core is better than an Ebay core. 
As for mounting... the Charge pipes hold it flat against the radiator with no problem, and it sits on the a small lip coming from the bottom of the radiator. I made some small wooden shims that I painted black (more hidden) to squeeze the core up to the bumper support for a nice snug fit. I have driven with the bumper off for weeks on end before and never EVER had a problem with it loosening up. 
If I wanted to get really crazy I would have a bracket welded to each side endtank and then bolt the IC up the the bumper suupport from the bottom, this way you really couldnt see the brackets... Im all about hiding stuff or making it look like its floating lol. 
Hit me up with any more questions. 
Ill dig up some more pics with the bumper off for ya too http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*



Passat just chillin in the background lol. Stock headlights for sale though http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif






*Hope some of these pics help. Didnt take many pics of the install, but thats the finished product!* http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by MK4WolfsburgJetta at 6:23 PM 10-26-2008_


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## Brad6710 (Mar 29, 2008)

*Re: (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

thanks man, yeah i just don't want to spend a crap load on a FMIC, what gains are you getting with you spray shots? Also i see these kits are on ebay u think its worth it?


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (Brad6710)*

If youre on stock turbo, an Ebay FMIC will be just fine. If youre planning on going Big Turbo one day, I would get a EuroJet Kit. 
As for the Nos, sprayer.... it would be better to get a water/meth injection kit (WAI). Its almost the same price, but the WAI kit will provide better cooling than a Nos sprayer, plus Nitrous is SUPER expensive! -20 degree washer fluid (60% water, 40% methanol) and a bottle of Heat (99% methanol) will get you at about a 50/50 mix in the OEM resovwar. I only have the IC sprayer cause instead of purging to the air, I purge on the IC so its not wasted. 
It helps the IC cool down to almost freezing brfore a 1/4 mile run. Other than that, its about useless lol.


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## Abriscoe1986 (Feb 15, 2008)

*Re: (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

so do the water/meth injection kit give you more hp and cool it down as well. and whats the coil you put in front of the intercooler. what dose it do.


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (Abriscoe1986)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Abriscoe1986* »_so do the water/meth injection kit give you more hp and cool it down as well. and whats the coil you put in front of the intercooler. what dose it do.

The WAI kit will not give you more power just as a bolt on. Maybe 2-5 hp from colder intake temps. If you want the real gains 20, 30, 40hp you have to advance the timing and increase boost. 
The coil thing infront of the IC is a nitrous sprayer. Its freezes the IC before a 1/4 mile run making the WAI even more effective! Not really worth $450, but the kid I got the car from threw in the kit too, so I figured I would throw it on once I got my FMIC kit. 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## dallas04gli (Jun 25, 2007)

nice write up. looking at getting one in the not so distant future. post for tracking. what kind of results in temp drop do people see from the intercooler sprayer?


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (dallas04gli)*

With the IC sprayed and the water meth I have seen temps as low as 6* celcius. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Budsdubbin (Jul 14, 2008)

*Re: (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

cool you can also use Co2 if I'm not mistaken instead of NOS being that its only cooling your intercooler and its cheaper then wasting Nas


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (Budsdubbin)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Budsdubbin* »_cool you can also use Co2 if I'm not mistaken instead of NOS being that its only cooling your intercooler and its cheaper then wasting Nas

Absolutely! I actually recommend that since its about $45 for me to fill me 5lb bottle. Not cheap by any means. BUT... if you get the Co2 set-up, you have to get a special Co2 fill nozzle for your tank that wont match up to a nitrous fitting. Its weird. I was ganna have them put in a new Co2 nozzle for like $20 so I could run Co2, but then it was the wrong size where it met up to the start of the line. Just probably have to get some kind of converter. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Vegas337 (Jan 10, 2006)

*Re: (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

How did you get your jetta at 20lbs? I keep getting boost leaks so when i get on it, i just hear a loud ppshhhhhh and it slowly creeps up. I've felt it a few times after I'm done working on it, it holds really good, then after another hard pull just psshhhh noise, but not a lean code, just a P0705 Idle air RPM to high, lean, and misfire. Someone said it was a PCV system hose. I think that my problem but don't know where to start. Going to use your tuning 3v START and 5v FULL, see if it makes the intake manifold cooler.


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (Vegas337)*

Make a boost leak test device. Basically a PVC pipe end cap thats the same size as your turbo inlet. Drill a hole in the end and put a valve stem in there. Use a coupler and some t-bolt clamps to attach it to the turbo (inlet ofcourse). Then pump it up with an air compressor/bicycle pump. Watch your boost gauge so you dont go over your wanted boost level. You shouldnt hear any leaks. If you do you have to trace them down and stop them. Just keep checking and checking till you have none. If you cant find it with sound I also used some soapy water and watched for bubbles. 
Once you do all that you will hold boost much better. I was running a cranked wastegate for a while and would spike 27psi when I first got on it. Ofcourse our litte hair dryer turbos could never hold that lol.


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## KYLEMORRISON (Jan 9, 2007)

*Re: First Write Up...Check It: Snow Performance Water Meth Kit - Install Inside (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

where did you get this kit? how much was it? noticable Hp gains?


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## Budsdubbin (Jul 14, 2008)

*Re: First Write Up...Check It: Snow Performance Water Meth Kit - Install Inside (KYLEMORRISON)*

SNOWperformance.net
BSHspeedshop.com
HStuning.net
USRTrallysport.com

Snowperformance is the company but there are dealers around that carry them like BSH, HS and USRT they are all good companies to deal with. 
What it does is theres a pump with an injector that sprays a mix of 50%water and 50% meth into your intake to lower intake temps for denser air and raises your fuels octane rating in the combustion chamber to 115 if it was 87oct. 20-30whp can be added to peak and even more throughout the power band. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif







You just have to run 100oct programing or if you have vagcom increase timing/boost for the most gains. A Savwko from HStuning made 258whp 320wtq with water/meth - nitro methane mix and 100oct fuel.


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: First Write Up...Check It: Snow Performance Water Meth Kit - Install Inside (Budsdubbin)*

Shoot a PM to [email protected] He's the man!


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## Brad6710 (Mar 29, 2008)

*Re: First Write Up...Check It: Snow Performance Water Meth Kit - Install Inside (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

hey i have the snow performance stage 1 with the little pressure switch, but it not working. I have an additional turn on, turn off for the whole system.
when i hook up the pressure switch, one end to my boost pressure from the manifold, then a 12volt, but there is still one prong still open and i dont know where it goes to? its a little confusing in the instructions. But as of now the on off switch acts as only a on off switch and has nothing to do with the boost of my car or the boost controller to control when it turns on?
pics below
thanks for any help.
















































boost signal is tapped into my A-piller gauge
















not the best quality sorry but its what i got



_Modified by Brad6710 at 4:21 PM 11-9-2008_


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: First Write Up...Check It: Snow Performance Water Meth Kit - Install Inside (Brad6710)*

I cant read that diagram for ANYTHING lol. Heres a link to a clean copy and also the link to the full install guide. 

http://www.snowperformance.net...6.pdf
Now... lets start at the left of the diagram. 
The triangle needs to be hooked up to the 75x terminal under the dashboard on the bottom of the fuse box. This is a key on source. Basically when the car is on, it gives power the whatever is hooked up. In my case... gauges, radar, gps, WAI controller. The other red wire goes to what im guessing is a controll box. Then add a boost/vacuum source and that part is done. 
Now were on the thing one to the right. What Im guessing is a controll box. This has 5 wires. One red is ganna go to the first thing we just hooked up, the other red goes to an LED. Make sure you use a resistor as described in the write up on page one. then you have a BLACK which goes to a ground. Then theres the a YELLOW which is going to go straight to the battery (constant 12v power with a fuse). Last you have the GREEN which goes to the RED on the pump itself. 
Now on to the pump... Red goes to GREEN, and the Black goes to another ground. 
Pretty simple. If you have all that hooked up I guarentee it will work. I think your main problem is your "on/off" switch. IDK how you have that hooked up, but you shouldnt have one. Just use the switched 12v source on the 75x terminal under the dash. Let me know what you think.


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## Brad6710 (Mar 29, 2008)

woowww yeah im dumb i didn't even see that triangle sign haha. well right now i have the on/off switch hooked directly to the yellow wire to the battery. Basically i did this so that i can turn the whole thing off when i don't want to use it, Now i think u solved my problem, but what if i just redirect that on/off switch wire i have connected to the yellow wire from the battery to the 12 volt key on? then u think it will work?


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (Brad6710)*

Nope... wont work my friend. You have to have the YELLOW wire supply *CONSTANT* 12v, and ALSO have the RED wire on the first unit (Upper Left Hand Corner Of Diagram) wired to a switched source; the 75x that I was talking about. If you want a seperate on/off switch you need a switch that basically puts a "break" in the wire. Then you wire that to "break" your *CONSTANT* 12v. 
I dont see any need for a seperate on/off switch though. In my case if I ever turned it off, my timing is advances soooo far that my car would be knocking like a mother!!!







lol. I say keep it on all the time, but set it to maybe come on like half way into your total boost. 
(ex. if youre running 20psi, make it come on at 10psi)
This way it wont cmoe on unless you REALLY get on it. I have mine set to come on at 5psi, and it barely ever comes on. When I daily drive, my car barely ever sees boost. Im at like 2psi maybe when accelerating and the rest of the time Im in vaccume. Im running 2 descent sized nozzles and only have to fill the OEM resovwar like once every 2 weeks. And on top of all that I fill it with -20 washer fluid, and 1 bottle of HEAT. Makes a perfect 50/50 mix and costs about $3.00.


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## Brad6710 (Mar 29, 2008)

well i run 22 PSI, and u just touch the gas pedal and get 10-12psi, but okay so if i keep the yellow constant from the battery, then run the switch through the 12 volt turn on will it work? i want to use that switch in some way i mean i have it in the dash all ready and it was a pain in the ass to get it in there. haha


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## Brad6710 (Mar 29, 2008)

my switch is a illuminated blue when it is on and dark blue when it is not. it has 3 prongs obviously
1. for the ground
2. for the constant 12V
3. for the accessory or whatever


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (Brad6710)*

I think what youre getting confused about it the "switched 12v". Switched is an electrical term meaning a 12v source that will automatically turn on/off with the ignition key on your car. 
Ignition on=12v
Ignition off=Ground
If you really want a seperate on/off switch, you run it in line with the YELLOW wire. Not the switched 12v. 
Also... youre getting confused about the wiring on your aftermarket switch you have.
Ill make it simple. Lets say you have a light you wanna put a switch in. You have a bulb with a 12v and a ground. Follow me? You take the switch and wire it like this...
3 prongs...
RED1- One side of the 12v
RED2- Other side of the 12v
BLACK- Ground 
This way in position 1 the switch will let current flow straight through the switch (like it isnt even there), but in position 2 it grounds out the inco,ming 12v and doesnt allow power to get through. Feel me?


_Modified by MK4WolfsburgJetta at 11:46 AM 11-8-2008_


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## Brad6710 (Mar 29, 2008)

OK yeah sorry i think I'm confusing myself to, the switch i have, you described correctly (i didn't). I have that switch on the far right of my dash running into the yellow line as of now. So your saying if i just connect a new wire from the 75x terminal under the dash, then connect it to the other prong i have on the clear boost controller i have? this then will hopefully solve the issue as of now that is the on/of switch i have acts just as that, and the clear boost controller isn't actually controlling when it sprays and when it doesn't. the on/off switch is?


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (Brad6710)*

Right. You dont have a progressive controller. Your boost reference thing says... "hey were at 5psi. turn on!" Thats all thats for. You were just missing the ignition 12v switched (the triangle) and you had YOUR on/off switch wired to the wrong place. Fix those 2 things and you should be good to go. 
Just make it exactly like the diagram. Every wire has a place to go. Then wire YOUR switch into the YELLOW. Let me know how that goes. I have to ride out for a bit, but Ill try to get o latr and check up on things! Good luck! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Brad6710 (Mar 29, 2008)

everything is working great thank you soo much for all your help. But one more question, what brand of washer fluid should i get, cuz there is so many out there with extra additives im a little worried bout choosing the right kind. Also is it "HEET" you said u added?


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (Brad6710)*

Get -20 _PEAK_ Washer fliud, and add 1 whole bottle of _HEAT._ Other brands have bug and tar remover crap... not the best thing to be injecting into your motor lol. 
If you cant find -20 (like me here in Florida lol) then get the _PEAK_ thats good to 0* and add 2 bottles of _HEAT._ That will get you right about where you need to be.
So have you started advancing the timing and doing logs yet?


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## Brad6710 (Mar 29, 2008)

okay sweet i will have to go out and buy some fluid and heat at my local autozone.
nah i still have a very rough idle situation with my GLI, i did the basics first before i spent mad money on something i don't need, changed
1. Spark Plugs
2. Cleaned Air Filter
3. Cleaned MAF (rubbing alcohol)
4. Checked for Leaks
5. Check coil wires for breaks in wire
6. still getting boost, so its not the turbo
7. Changed oil (always royal purple)
8. checked all connections
all of this didn't help! Yhe spark plugs seemed to help a tiny bit but It still have a really rough idle. Now the car is chipped with the GIAC X++ version so i know it has a rougher idle than usual, but this is way worse my engine is bucking, puff puffing outta of my 3inch full TB exhaust, and a abnormal sound coming from the engine (the sound is coming from what seems to be around underneath my SR intake? My car idles around 750-850 RPMs maybe? Like I'm stumped here and have no idea what to do? Maybe my chipped needs an upgrade to the latest version? installing this pump had nothing to do with the engine really cuz i haven't even injected anything in it yet? My engine light is on the though (yellow). Car has 34K miles on it


_Modified by Brad6710 at 4:33 PM 11-9-2008_


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## Gberg888GLI (Nov 1, 2006)

*Re: Water/Meth Install ***Part 2*** (Abriscoe1986)*

good goodness! love it...
ill use this when i do mine aswell.. but i need to do some other stupid stuff first..


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (Brad6710)*

You should scan your car with Vag-Com... That should tell you the problem, especially if your CEL is on. I could do it if you were local... mb dude. 


_Modified by MK4WolfsburgJetta at 1:38 AM 11-10-2008_


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## 96passatglxvr6 (May 7, 2004)

This thread is freakin awesome! I have a 99 passat heavily moded with a GT2x turbo. I want to do a meth kit looking at the snow stage 2. If Im not looking to change timing will I see any gains? I am mostly looking for the cooling factor. Also I have 380cc injectors with Unitronic software. How do I figure how much flow to do with the meth?


_Modified by 96passatglxvr6 at 6:21 PM 11-18-2008_


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## DirtyDub01 (Jun 23, 2007)

*Re: (96passatglxvr6)*

LOVE this thread!! Very informative!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Also if anyone is from or around northeast OH and wants to help my put mine on please shoot me an IM.. Thanks


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (96passatglxvr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *96passatglxvr6* »_This thread is freakin awesome! I have a 99 passat heavily moded with a GT2x turbo. I want to do a meth kit looking at the snow stage 2. If Im not looking to change timing will I see any gains? I am mostly looking for the cooling factor. Also I have 380cc injectors with Unitronic software. How do I figure how much flow to do with the meth?

Theres a table somewhere on the vortex. You plug in some info and it spits back the size nozzles you should use @ what pump pressure. PM [email protected] Im 99% sure he has access to it in a snap! 
Also, you will see gains, but they will be minimal. The real difference is felt with the timing advance. Once you learn how to do it, its really quite simple. I put mine back to 0* advance after running for about a month with it 7.5* advanced and it felt like a different car. Seriously weak! If you need me too I can do a quick write up on how to safely advance the timing with water/meth... Let me know if thats something you all would be interested in, before I take to time to do it. 




_Modified by MK4WolfsburgJetta at 7:04 PM 11-20-2008_


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## 96passatglxvr6 (May 7, 2004)

*Re: (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

I would be interested for sure! It is a little nerve racking. I would like a little better throttle response but other than that I am happy with how it runs!


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (96passatglxvr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *96passatglxvr6* »_I would be interested for sure! It is a little nerve racking. I would like a little better throttle response but other than that I am happy with how it runs!

Its really quite simple. Ill get working on the write up. Shouldnt take me but a couple of days with pics and everything. I think its best to advance timing to get the MOST out of your WAI kit! And it will wake it the hell up! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Brad6710 (Mar 29, 2008)

*Re: (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

ever since Ive installed this kit, my engine has been running horrible, my GIAC x+ chip went to Limp mode and wont get out, and im getting absolutely no boost what so ever.


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (Brad6710)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Brad6710* »_ever since Ive installed this kit, my engine has been running horrible, my GIAC x+ chip went to Limp mode and wont get out, and im getting absolutely no boost what so ever.

I feel your pain. Switched to MBC today and Im living in limp mode lol. Need to do the diode mod. But I highly doubt the W/M kit caused limp mode. If anything it would prevent it. Have you scanned your car with a Vag-Com yet?


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## 96passatglxvr6 (May 7, 2004)

*Re: (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

I would be interested for sure! It is a little nerve racking. I would like a little better throttle response but other than that I am happy with how it runs!


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## Brad6710 (Mar 29, 2008)

*Re: (96passatglxvr6)*

nah no VAG-COM yet will hopefully this weekend. replaced Coils and for the weirdest reason my plugs were at .40 so i gapped them down to .28. Still in limp mode though


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## vwturbo19 (Jan 28, 2003)

Sorry to jump in here, but can anyone address the fuel issue? What mv from the O2 am i looking for as i turn up boost and timing? also...is going to 380cc injectors with a 4 bar fpr ok with stock turbo? Im still on the stock injectors. Im holding right at 20 psi now, but have had to pull back 1.5* I forget what nozzle i have in; its the middle one that they said was common. I want to say 225ml. never adjusted pump pressure. im logging .785 or so mv from the front O2 under full boost and started getting random missfires pulled timing thru lemmi to -1.5* and its better. But still not perfect. Innitially i cranked the WG to hold 27psi with boost juice and added a few degrees of timing and it ran amazing! started getting missfires and cant get it straight again. thanks










_Modified by vwturbo19 at 5:10 PM 12-7-2008_


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (vwturbo19)*

Hmmm... Well first of all, I would put the stock 318cc back in on 3 bar like its supposed to be. UNLESS your tuning calls for bigger injectors. But I dont know of any tuning that calls for more fuel than stock. 
Second... Im a noob and dont know what you mean by "mv" lol. Could you please define that for me. Thanks!


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## vwturbo19 (Jan 28, 2003)

*Re: (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

I forget what block it is under in vag, but it stands for millivolts. I have been searching for millivolt correlation to AFR but cant find it again. I have read it before; and im pretty sure on vortex. Just playing devil's advocate here; what is the 4 bar hurting? I got it free a long time ago, and figured it was just some added security. will keep it in mind though thanks. any ideas on why my car with the meth is wanting me to pull 1.5* of timing out? 


_Modified by vwturbo19 at 9:08 PM 12-7-2008_


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (vwturbo19)*

Well a/f ratios and timing are something totally different. The 4 bar probably isnt hurting anything, but the bigger injectors are an overkill. 
Now... with the timing, you should be logging the timing pull to tune the water meth kit. Youre saying that w/o water meth the car is pulling no timing, but with it... its pulling 1.5*....? That couldnt be the case. With water meth, you should be able to ADVANCE timing more without the ECU pulling it.


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## rracerguy717 (Apr 8, 2003)

*Re: (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MK4WolfsburgJetta* »_ Youre saying that w/o water meth the car is pulling no timing, but with it... its pulling 1.5*....? That couldnt be the case. With water meth, you should be able to ADVANCE timing more without the ECU pulling it. 

Ive seen this happen when either .
1) There no Water/meth actually being injected 
2) When using straight meth and not injecting enough will actually make it run lean which can promote more timing pull.Bob.G


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (rracerguy717)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rracerguy717* »_1) There no Water/meth actually being injected 
2) When using straight meth and not injecting enough will actually make it run lean which can promote more timing pull.Bob.G

Good call. Water is the ingredient that reduces pre-detonation. The methanol is the ingredient that gives you the colder intake temps! Try adding more water to the mix. I run 1 bottle of "Heat" and then fill the rest up with "0* Peak Washer Fluid", and thats just about perfect!


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## vwturbo19 (Jan 28, 2003)

*Re: (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

Thanks! I'll do some logging in the morning, and see where im at again. let everyone know whats what then.


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (vwturbo19)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwturbo19* »_Thanks! I'll do some logging in the morning, and see where im at again. let everyone know whats what then. 

Looking forward to it dude! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## vwturbo19 (Jan 28, 2003)

*Re: (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

ok...according to my front O2 im still down in the high 11:1 to 12.__ A/F ratio. As long as I was told the right conversion for the lambda reading. and total ignition timing came down to about 3* under load. I think im doing this logging all wrong. well the car is broke right now; shifter cable broke the other night so im waiting on that now. then im gonna drain what meth mixture i have and mix some new stuff. I've got some heet and a bottle of -20 washer fluid. should that be about right? with the holidays coming, i'll get some much deserved time to tune this thing like it should be. I dont know...when i first put the meth on and MAP diode cranked the WG to 25 psi; raced a dyno proven 290whp STI and pulled a car on him from 50-130. I know it wont do that now.


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## Budsdubbin (Jul 14, 2008)

*Re: (vwturbo19)*

should be 2bottles of heet and the blue stuff that'll = 50/50


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## New2theGame (Aug 14, 2008)

*Re: (Budsdubbin)*

Good dyi


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (vwturbo19)*

I put one bottle of Heat in the resovwar and then fill the rest with 0* washer fluid. Thats almost a 50/50 mix with a little more water than meth. This is good because the meth is an octain booster and also is good for the cold intake temps. Sweet! But where the real power comes from is the timing advance. The more water you use, the farther you will be able to advance the timing. 
Water = timing advance
Meth = Cold intake temps and Higher octain
So the question now is what do you want more of? 

_Quote, originally posted by *New2theGame* »_Good dyi

Thanks for looking! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by MK4WolfsburgJetta at 3:53 AM 12-18-2008_


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## New2theGame (Aug 14, 2008)

*Re: (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

I am looking forward to doing this mod towards the end of this winter. Is there anyway you could post a list of ALL PARTS + Cost and POSSIBLY a link for what you used?
Hoses - clamps - etc?
Also... What are the benefits of a dual nozzle? How much was that?
Sorry for asking so many (maybe noobish) questions... I just like to know ALL of the details before I start doing a project/spending money.
Thanks for the info.


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (New2theGame)*


_Quote, originally posted by *New2theGame* »_Sorry for asking so many (maybe noobish) questions... I just like to know ALL of the details before I start doing a project/spending money.
Thanks for the info.









Sure dude. Its no problem. 
Its a long list of little parts so let me get to it in the mourning. 
Its 4:26AM where Im at so Im about to pass the F out lol.


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## New2theGame (Aug 14, 2008)

*Re: (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

Yeah man, sounds good. I appreciate the information!
Tell me about it... I work 12 hour shifts... 8pm-8am. I guess thats the price of being in the military!


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (New2theGame)*

Ok... What you need is pump, wire, control box, nylon tube, and a nozzle. BUT its going to be way more expensive to buy it all seperatly. I would pick up a snowperformance kit from *[email protected]*. You can PM him and he will set you up with everything, and I mean EVERYTHING you need. The dual nozzle is an upgrade you can get for a little extra cash. 
Advantage: Nozzle near the TB is better for running advanced timing. 
Nozzle near the IC is better for the cold intake temps. 
You can put one nozzle (if only running a single nozzle setup) in the middle, and get a descent ammount of cooling as well as the abilit to run more advanced timing. I just figured if I was going to do it, then go big the first time. 
Some people call it an overkill, but I dont believe so when My timing is advanced 4.5* *FARTHER* than the APR Tuning I am running (3* advance I think).... Thats a total of 7.5* advance, and at 30psi on a ko3s, Im still logging intake temps of 11 degrees celcius up to 5k and 17 degrees celcius at 7k... on a day where its 80 degrees outside, and the ECUs pulling no more than 4*. 
I dont call that an overkill. I call that bad ass! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## New2theGame (Aug 14, 2008)

*Re: (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

Sounds good man.. I ll have to give him a shout when i get ready to do mine.. You didnt need to get any extra tubing or clamps that didnt come with the kit? Thats badass...


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (New2theGame)*

The way I ran my kit was kind of weird. I like to hide EVERYTHING so and having the two nozzles meant two times as much tube.... So I ordered some more. But If youre going single nozzle and dont mind a little tubing showing then yes, the kit comes with everything. You could maybe get some heat shrink to put around the wires coming out of the control box... but thats about all I can say extra I did. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## MK4WolfsburgJetta (Mar 17, 2008)

*Re: (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

I will be posting up the much anticipated write up on how to safely and proerly advance the timing ASAP. Thanks for everyone's patience. I have been VERY busy with school and other things this last month. 
So grab your vag-com, cable, and Lemmiwinks/Unisettings or whatever you use, and lets unlock some free power! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by MK4WolfsburgJetta at 12:51 PM 1-17-2009_


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## boravr6NS (Jan 5, 2008)

*Re: (MK4WolfsburgJetta)*

can't wait


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## lazermkiv (Feb 28, 2010)

save for later:snowcool:


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## RubDubMkIV (Sep 10, 2012)

Yo MK4WolfsburgJetta! so i listened to your advice and got in contact with Scott with USRT and gave me unbelievable advice. the beginning of the call was a bit of kill because Scott made me realize i had my set up witht the water meth ALL wrong! but thank for scott with his help he taught me the right way to install water meth in my Mk4 GTI BUT before i re-install the water-meth in my car, Scott told me NOT to install the watermeth, now you might be ask WHY would he tell me NOT to install it?? wellllll lets just say my car is not working right performance wiseeee! So scott told me to check out what is wrong with my car at a mechanic shop. so once i fix my problems im definitly installing water meth the correct way all thanks to Scott with USRT! btw great thread! keep it upp


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## Jimmydean956 (Nov 13, 2014)

So I have seen people put one nozzle in the throttle body(closer) and then the other in the intake pipe(furthest). I see you put your second one in the inter cooler piping. Does this offer a better spray I am assuming? The passage side intercooler piping is right before the intake piping? Is this the same with all forced injection?

Is Scott still on the business? I would like get in contact with him.

MK6 TSI GLI
2013.5 2.OT GEN 3


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