# dusting off another ol' 1.8t



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

Ive owned this TT for 13yrears and in 2005 it received an apr 225 stage 3+ install, this left the car a bit un-fulfilling to me after so much money was spent on "improving performance" so i parked it. Sure it got out to a few shows and did the occasional hot lap but the car never preformed in a way i was happy with as a daily driven car once this kit was installed.

with the last few years release of some key parts for the 1.8t platform i have slowly started to think it was time to spend some cash and get this car back into tip top shape with some quality updated parts.

some of the main parts i am looking forward to installing are...........

USRT Genesis 2 1000cc injectors. from what i have read guys are having a real good time tuning these injectors.










USRT Genesis 2 drop in fuel pump. i look forward to getting rid of the inline pump from my current setup.

(no photos of the production pump exist yet so........ this is what i am guessing it will be like)










eurodyne meastor 7, i have had this for a few years but not spent much time digging too deep into the tunings true power.












eurodyne Boost Manager plus water/meth controller. this should help tie a few of loose ends up on the car nicely. 










034 intake manifold, this is going to help fix a few small issues that i just didn't want to deal with till now plus........ it has the magic ability to unlock some hidden power.










there are a few other parts that i have collected over the years that will get installed.

stuff like......

034 billet fuel rail

034 adjustable fuel pressure regulator

hemi 80mm throttle body


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

a few pics of the car over the years.............

after getting a ko4 install back in 03



















getting ready to pull everything in 05










225 swap from 2003 ALMS TT










everything not used from the donor motor 










getting ready for the road ahead










nice how lego'isk these cars are










wow i need to take more photos of this thing...... only photo i can find from 2006 to 2011










and how its sitting now in storage










last time i fired the dang TT up i counted 11 black widows on it before i gave up counting.


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

When my Jetta received the APR kit (late 2004), it felt fun for a while. Tracked the hell out of it while I was out in Komifornia. It felt a little lackluster after a while...so I tossed in a gt3071r.


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

if all the planed updating to the car goes well i am thinking come spring a gtx3071r will get installed. the current setup made some big #'s but in reality the car just doesn't run well as is. 

spaced out some ignition upgrades that were planed back around since saint Patrick's day :laugh: but ended up on the shelf instead of in the car. 

fsi coils
new coil harness
new spark plugs

never bothered getting coil adapters :facepalm:
now to find a hose this cars filthy


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## lorge1989 (Sep 3, 2008)

Please tell me this is Haldex.


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

oh its AWD....... march 1999 build date 180q (ATC motor code) is how it rolled out the factory. today its got both an 5spd and 6spd drive-train along with a few more ponies under the hood :laugh:.


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

box just showed up from integrated engineering, quick delivery on an hemi 80mm throttle body. 










this should play nicely with the other intake mods getting done on this round of work.


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## I_Run_The_AV (Mar 14, 2013)

Nice car. Don't forget to shave the tab from the hemi socket so you can get the plug to go on all the way. Also the 034 mani is only 70mm so your gonna have to open it up a tad.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Subd:beer:

Been wondering what you were doing with this thing the last few years


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

thanks man, this cars been in hibernation for quiet some time. nice to see some around here remember it :beer:

well a little birdie, okay i lie a slightly sluggish cranky birdie came by today and dropped off the 1000cc injectors. things looks like some real TLC was put into each one. the poor post man seems off-put by the increase of packages coming in vs. being shipped out 


had a good chat Friday with a few nice guys who let me put one of the fresh off the press 034 manifolds in my hot little hands....... with a few answers to some questions i have, its looks like ill get my own copy of this manifold some time next week. :beer: its going to take a bit of tweaking before i can install one but who doesn't like to take a girl out to dinner..... talk her ear off a bit then unwrap her and give her a good stretching out till things are just the way you like it?...:laugh:


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

carsluTT said:


> its going to take a bit of tweaking before i can install one but who doesn't like to take a girl out to dinner..... talk her ear off a bit then unwrap her and give her a good stretching out till things are just the way you like it?...:laugh:


 :laugh::beer:


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

went to grab some tools from storage and noticed something has been getting some a better view of things from on top the cars.










photos before work starts next week 










note to self....... don't be lazy and leave the rain try filler panel off for years at a time. 










went to unplug the battery tender and got to shake hands with one of many of the night watchmen. 










had to shift the mk2 around so the TT can assume the position.


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

Got the intake manifold today....... aluminum chips will start flying Sunday/Monday :laugh: thing is beefy.


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

making a bit of progress this weekend.


manifold came in a nice box. thing has plenty of packing in it to protect the manifold from the above average level of aggressive delivery person. 











and here it is fresh out of the box










the 034 placard is factory installed so for anyone running the throttle body on the driver side you get a empty space to show people who look at your motor. not a big deal just odd there is a space for it on both sides if the installed doesn't get to make the install choice of where the placard goes. 

some of the goodies that are going to work well with the new manifold. that is a extra runner to plenum gasket. i felt better knowing there is one in my repair stash for down the road services. 










big manifold....... small ports, well not for long at least :laugh:










the casting is as nice inside as out, i am happy with the quality so far.











and now the work begins, i am going to do a bit of testing before the manifold is installed. to help test only the manifold i made a set of block-off plates.


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

works keeping me from doing much on the car so i made it a lill something.........


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

got something exciting today...........

the _*USRT water/meth direct port kit*_ showed up. i will be running a total of 6 nozzles with this setup.










ill get better photos of this setup later. its a real quality part.

i also opened the unitornic wideband harness. 

http://www.unitronic-chipped.com/store/products/fueling/wideband-ecu-conversion-kit.html










its nice to see they used quality parts to build this harness










i noticed only the red wire has a rubber boot.










my only concern is the vvt resistor. the wires coming off the left side of it seem to for lack of a better word "flop" around a bit. i am worried the solid core wire coming out the resistor is damaged as the wires on that side are not as stiff as the right side. 










i'm not able to start digging into the actual audi much till the start of November so i am doing as much small prep as i can before then.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

:thumbup: The 034 mani does well. You will want to put a phenolic spacer on there to gain clearance on the alternator. The TB boot also requires some rework :thumbup:


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

with santa about to hit town im getting ready to spend my down time from work getting deep into the TT.

some of the parts stash thats been building up 










parts from 034 motorsport










usrt parts










Integrated Engineeing










Gruven Parts










eurodyne










unitornic










ECS Tuning










fellow TT owner had an extra one of these laying around along with detailed documentation to go with it










car is up in the air now, plan is to pull the front clip and start draining fluid. once all the small stuff is out of the way ill pull the motor/trans/subframe out all at once. the APR stg3 downpipe is a real real real real real real real PIA to deal with in the car. it almost makes it impossible to take the bevel box off the trans with everything in the car.

makes me sad taking the car off the road. i hope by the middle of January to get the car back to running condition. 

already have a parts list building for items needed to connect all these loose ends. :banghead:


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Nice build so far:thumbup: Nice to see a fellow TT owner doing some work to their car.


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

while pressure testing the manifold i noticed this... 2 of the 4 injectors start to leak slightly at 15psi. i think this maybe the source of the leak. :facepalm:

your looking into an injector bung.










nice cavity in the casting exposed during final machine work.

another injector bung 










best of the 4 injector bungs










not sure what to do, cant really get into the bungs to weld these up and don't want to have to re-machine the bungs. i am going to try getting my hands on some over sized o-rings in hope for a easy fix . the bulk of the cavities are at the bottom edge of where the 0-ring sits in the bung so i am giving the oversize o-ring a fighting chance as a save. 

if you have one of these manifolds could you take a detailed look at your injector bungs. i wonder if this is an isolated issue or a casting problem.

why am i pressure testing this manifold off the motor?... i am going to step thru installing everything 1 step at a time onto the manifold to help remove any chance of a vacuum leak down the road. this manifold is getting direct port water/meth nozzles installed, 5 of them. so that alone opens up a chance for a few different hard to find on the motor vacuum leaks. then you have all the thread in fittings for normal vacuum duty's that can be checked while on the bench.


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

decided to dip into the awesome user driven world of the* Pandit Project* powered by the kindness of DMVDUB himself. its really awesome to have a remotely dialed in file to use when time comes to restart the car :beer:


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

had some time over xmas to get cracking on motor removal. 










that freaking downpipe is a blessing and a curse. it fits well but fits so well its a real pain to get on/off while inside the car. 











just as the motor hit the sky the post man handed me these.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

carsluTT said:


> while pressure testing the manifold i noticed this... 2 of the 4 injectors start to leak slightly at 15psi. i think this maybe the source of the leak. :facepalm:
> 
> if you have one of these manifolds could you take a detailed look at your injector bungs. i wonder if this is an isolated issue or a casting problem.
> 
> why am i pressure testing this manifold off the motor?... i am going to step thru installing everything 1 step at a time onto the manifold to help remove any chance of a vacuum leak down the road. this manifold is getting direct port water/meth nozzles installed, 5 of them. so that alone opens up a chance for a few different hard to find on the motor vacuum leaks. then you have all the thread in fittings for normal vacuum duty's that can be checked while on the bench.


I will try to pull my fuel rail today and check it out. I have had issues with getting o-rings to seal correctly due to needing spacers to correct the height and angle of injectors. I know 034 said there was some casting issues, but that does not seem to be any public announcement or to their vendors, just a quick comment on the 1.8t forum. I had a couple odd stumbles under part throttle every once in a while, I have not been able to replicate it reliably. 

Its on my to-do list to pressure test and ensure the o-rings are seated correctly. The rail spacers need to be .1875" to get the correct seating point. I am still not sure why every manifold maker short of Schimmel has issues with rail mountings. Too focused on flow #'s and not enough on mounting and assembly fitments.


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

it is def a bit of an letdown that these manifolds cost so much and require spacers to get fuel rails to fit properly. mix that in with shotty injector bungs and its a bit of a foul ball in the doing a good job category. i really hope it doesn't come down to me having to machine this manifold to accept something like the verdict billet injector cups to fix the bung issue. :facepalm:


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

carsluTT said:


> it is def a bit of an letdown that these manifolds cost so much and require spacers to get fuel rails to fit properly. mix that in with shotty injector bungs and its a bit of a foul ball in the doing a good job category. i really hope it doesn't come down to me having to machine this manifold to accept something like the verdict billet injector cups to fix the bung issue. :facepalm:



Agreed. The power is awesome, but the injector bungs are a bad design. The TT injectors are larger in diameter than the conventional 1.8t's by ~.005-.015". When I designed the billet injector cups, I took this into account. But as far as I can tell, none of the manifold manufactures have yet to grasp "designed range" and test multiple different parts to ensure that theirs exceeds factory fitment. 

One of the hardest things I have found was figuring out the allowable tolerance for factory parts, then you have to usually cut that in half in order to make up for some of the aftermarket OE suppliers as they operate at both ends of the tolerance range. 

If you are thinking of making the manifold use some of my billet ones, I can give ya a hand dimensionally getting the right fit.

-Noah :beer:


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

i go to test fit the gruven 1.8T Billet 4Y and discover i have a coolant sensor in the middle of the plastic y-fitting on my car. 

:sly:


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

got the updated wideband harness installed.

discovered unitornic used a different style terminal end vs. vw/audi did from the factory. the unitronic terminal end is larger slightly but a minor push with a small screw driver seemed to seat it into the clip. 

here you can see the more boxy style terminal ends unitronic uses.










if you look at the red and green wires just of center there is a brown wire between them with a different style terminal end that can slightly be seen in the housing. 










this different style terminal end seems to be lined up properly with the housing so things should work just fine. if i do have any problems i will replace the unitronic terminal ends with one of the unused terminal ends supplied in the housing already from the factory. 

after the unitornic wideband harness was installed a new coil pack harness was installed.










its really awesome all the wires are labeled for what position of wire they replace in the housing.

now on to the hard decisoins, to stay with the APR 225 stage 3+ or................. step up to an GTX3071r while the motor is out of the car.


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

got the ball rolling a bit more.............. GTX3071r is on the way with a few major items to help revamp this car into something new.










:beer:


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

opcorn:


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

I pulled out the injectors, all the bungs on my manifold look fine.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ter-(BBTR)&p=84456005&viewfull=1#post84456005


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

^^great thread there


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

had a bit of time today so off came the turbo.



















this downpipe is quiet on its own page....... to get the middle bolt into place you have to go through the o2 sensor hole as it is inside the downpipe when installed onto the turbo.




























now the project slows a bit till a few major parts start arriving.


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

lets talk hardware........

arp head studs, what stud works with the o6a block running an aeb head? i dont feel like dealing with drilling the block for 11mm studs so where does that leave me? does the standard 10mm stud kit for an o6a block work with an aeb head or is there some goofy stud kit from apr to help make this happen?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Check the faq


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

groggory said:


> Check the faq


i must of missed something in the faq, i dug around via search and found info about drilling/tapping the lock for 11mm studs. nothing about using 10mm studs with this combo. 

ill give it another look.

here is what i pull from the *FAQ* looking for head bolt/stud info. 

"AGU / AUQ isnt 058. Both are "06A" family. A timing belt kit for an AGU will work with an AUQ as well as AWP etc.
The blocks are the same hence the water pumps are the same.

Will a standard 11mm head bolt head fit in the hole in the AUQ (smallport) head? - Yes

Is there any length differences between the 11mm bolts and the 10mm bolts?
Yes. The 06a bolts are longer because the threads start so deep in the block.

These are Raceware studs for both 058 and 06a motors. and it is also stock headbolts for each motor as well. the AEB threads start at the deck surface."

"Head Bolts & Head Studs
Note: 06A blocks use 10mm bolts/ studs.
058 blocks use 11mm bolts/ studs.

If you are swapping around heads, blocks, etc...use the bolt/ stud that matches the block. The diameter of the stud is the critical element.

I'm not sure which nuts for the studs do this, but I hear there are clearance issues with certain stud nuts and certain heads. If anyone knows the details of this please chime in."

not exactly a clear answer beyond the 06a stuff being longer. the last part makes me wonder if the normal o6a nuts will fit properly into an aeb head.


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

made a mount for the fuel pump, going to see if i can fit this under the car. the sock and rubber mounts should help keep the pump sound to a minimum.



















plan is to run AN line from the exit of the pump all the way to the fuel rail.


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

big thanks to 034, they got me a new set of runners to replace the original set i had problems with.


now its time to get to work machining the daylights out of the new manifold.


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

parts are starting to flow in...........

the cts down pipe for quattro 1.8t TT's looks much better first person. the photos dont do it justice.



















see the way the down pipe makes a sharp turn where it connects to the mid pipe. this is why a flat flange is used and not a v-band. the opening is more of an oval than round. this is needed to make things fit with the prop shaft in the way.










GTX3071r left GT2871rs right










still waiting for the exhaust manifold before i can test fit parts onto the motor and get other parts of the project moving forward.


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

Nice! :thumbup:


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

few more parts rolled into the shop.

the CTS topmount manifold looks well built and thought out. 










nice cone built into the manifold leading into the turbo flange










bottom view of manifold










decided to try out the new billet crank gear from IE along with a fluid damper










new intercooler is a good 1 inch thicker than the apr intercooler along with being a bit taller and wider. 










laying out parts new and old


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Looking good, it's about time you start mounting all these parts. Love the inline fuel pump mount! :beer:


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

got some mods done on the intake manifold.

034 was awesome about fixing the bad injector bungs. really an easy process to get things taken care of. 

started off fresh out of the box like this.










this is the "large port" version of the intake runners. see how much more material needs to be removed for the runners to match the gasket size.










there is a small step left from the process of enlarging the runner port size from small to large. this step will be cleaned up during my gasket matching.










no going back to a stock size throttle body now.










tapped each runner for direct port water/meth nozzles, also adding a 5th nozzle just behind the throttle body and a 6th nozzle at the exit of the intercooler.










after doing final cleanup on the intake manifold it will join the other parts ready to head to powdercoating.


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

moving along with getting parts ready for powdercoating.

new oil fill cap


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

carsluTT said:


> lets talk hardware........
> 
> arp head studs, what stud works with the o6a block running an aeb head? i dont feel like dealing with drilling the block for 11mm studs so where does that leave me? does the standard 10mm stud kit for an o6a block work with an aeb head or is there some goofy stud kit from apr to help make this happen?


Order 10mm ARP studs or bolts, your choice.


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Order 10mm ARP studs or bolts, your choice.


thanks, i ended up getting a full ARP hardware kit (with 10mm ARP studs) via the CTS turbo. they suggested i stick with 10mm head hardware.


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

started installing ARP main studs.










studs only fit one way into the block, they are slightly shorter than the stock bolts but not any amount i worry about being an issue. 











test fit all the studs into the block. i need to get some locktight before i make the final pass with lube and nuts. 










during test fit of the CTS 750hp core i noticed the bumper rebar is blocking a lot of flow.










before i cut the rebar i found this hand marking on the back side.










plan is to cut the marked section out of the rebar then work on building the rebar into an mounting point for the intercooler. 











through an collaboration some parts are getting made i don't have all the tools to make myself.

low profile block breather fitting










this banjo fitting should help reduce clutter and simplify things on top of being nice to look at. 



















something i have been looking very forward to. . . 










its an inline OEM check valve fitting for running a catch can with AN lines.










this should make running a catch can and getting OEM like vacuum to the can possible along with replacing the valve down the road easy. i know a lot of guys who have had issues with non OEM check valves causing issues. 










things are getting closer. i am starting to think an aluminum radiator is going to be needed before to much longer. who is running one of the Mishimoto Aluminum Radiator in a quattro audi TT?


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## Nevaeh_Speed (Jul 9, 2004)

Are you cutting the plastic part of the bumper too? Or doing bumper holes for more flow?


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

Nevaeh_Speed said:


> Are you cutting the plastic part of the bumper too? Or doing bumper holes for more flow?


the bumper will get modified somehow, just not sure what direction i will be going with it yet. actuly looking to also scoot the FMIC up (away from the ground) vs. where the APR FMIC sat. i didn't like having the intercooler so low, every dip i went thru made me wonder if i would bump into the dang thing. i bet even half an inch up will make things a lot safer, but i hope for a full inch if not more just depends on how everything works out.


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

wrapped the main stud install.










also finished the oil cap install










while looking for my TT Bentley i found a TT parts stash under a good couple years of dust










got some aluminum in for constructing the turbo air intake, not sure this is going to fit into the bay properly as its a tad large at 4" OD. 










stripped down the turbo so the exhaust housing could get coated


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

got a 2nd car cover for the car. with the need to keep the car in the heated part of the shop that means its near the cnc machine and welding equipment. the 2nd cover just helps give the paint that extra chance to look good upon completing the car. nothing like having to double bag your goods :facepalm:











before the covers went on...... it was time for a carwash. what better time than during a massive 2 day long down pour. 











this was what i had planed would be how the IC would fit.










but, that puts the inlet/outlet way too low










so i had to make some changes to bring it up, this should be a better area for things.










here is how the IC mounting worked out










finished modifying the valve cover


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## zerb (Mar 18, 2005)

so what exactly is that OEM check valve assembly from? or did you have that piece machined around it and the valve itself was from the OEM?


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

zerb said:


> so what exactly is that OEM check valve assembly from? or did you have that piece machined around it and the valve itself was from the OEM?


the housing is something i had machined, it uses -10 fittings. i am going to be testing a plastic oem valve vs. the 034 billet valve. the photo is of the updated design check valve from 034.


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

while checking around the property for damage from the rain over the last few days and found these mixed in with the pile to be sent off for scrap next week 










now to get them cleaned and coated so the bushings can be upgraded.


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

you have far too many unopened cans of Coors being used as models. But maybe that's why my fab work always looks like I had a seizure in the middle of it.


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## cjb88 (Aug 21, 2010)

Any more info on your AN fitting catch can system? I'm quite intrigued by your metal check valve and how your going to set up your system. Very interested!!


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

Hay cjb88, as the motor comes together i will get some photos to help make scenes of how i am looking for the OEM style check valve to be of use. 

the TT hasn't had much attention lately. been a hold up with podwercoating and needing to get my chase truck finished which requires a lot of custom parts also. 

had the CNC fired off some wrenches to fit some of the custom truck parts










they work on stuff like these











picked up a few of the coated parts today










i am looking forward to how this new high temp coating holds up


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

progress is not consistent due to a major curve ball in my ablity to use 2 hands but the show is moving forward.

got the head studs installed. i removed 1 oem stud at a time in the order ARP suggests installing the studs. i hope this helped me avoid needing to replace the head gasket as i didn't want to deal with removing the head for stud install. this method of stud install is common on other motors with success so i am not all that worried about the 20v gasket having a issue with the hardware swap.

stock head bolt next to the box of studs










the studs are easy to instal via the allen punched in the top of each stud. 










the trash bag is orange as orange can be, the PC parts are more of a tan color.










got the valve cover and manifold set onto the motor, now the boost tube can start being built.









now to make a list of gaskets and seals to order


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## wjktdi (Oct 3, 2002)

*Great thread*

I really enjoy this build, glad to see other people have cars that lay formant for more than 5 years!


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

a-arms are back from powder coating










received my euro dash............ good part is thing is better than new quality!........ bad part it is the wrong color.. so for sale it goes....... 

my dash left, euro dash right. 










started setting up the manifold for install. amazing how much stuff goes onto this manifold even with removing all the evap bs........










the 80mm TB fits well with the manifold but i wonder how the clocked mounting flange will effect final install into the car.










still working out where the w/m distortion block will be mounted so the nozzles have not been adjusted yet.










started setting up the fuel rail and noticed something funny besides the fact i need spacers between the rail mount and the manifold for things to fit properly.










034 put their name onto the rail upside down.










installed the CTS top mount exhaust manifold. thing went on surprisingly easy. every nut is easy to get at almost like they took their time designing it. the center 2 bolts can be reached from below with a wrench with ease.


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Coming along nicely!!!


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## lorge1989 (Sep 3, 2008)

Lookin snazzy. What happened to your hand?


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

thanks guys.... cars def moving forward just at a pace not seen with the naked eye. as for my hand well shoulder....... it was injured in a one man show of awesome power, i am waiting for a call back from christopher reeve's about a quick fix as rotator cuff surgery sounds way unfun.


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

no progress has been getting made on this project due to setting up a new workshop. but...... that doesn't mean the car hasn't been getting attention, pulled the trigger today on one of the HPA standalone HALDEX controllers........ come mid summer the AWD will finally be tamed and ready for putting the power to the ground!












spent the weekend working on this puzzle.......... its an 4 post auto lift.










should make building an exhaust system a lot easier among other tasks.


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

managed to work on the motor a bit tonight.

got the IE crank gear installed and fluid damper. i took photos and have a few details to post about this but no time to get photos up now so it will come later.

now...... i need to lock the crank into place. does anyone happen to have a DXF file of the bolt pattern on a 1.8t or im guessing any 4 cylinder vw for that matter. i plan to cut a plate that will fit the crank and then bolt to the motor stand or block so i can properly torque the crank bolt. i don't have a clutch handy to measure and would rather not take the motor off the stand at this time if possible. 

anyone notice something missing from this epic quality crank gear?










more on that when i get time to post my photos.......


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

whats missing from the billet press fit 1.8t or 2.0 fsi IE crank gear......... timing marks...... 











as i was setting the new press fit gear onto the crank i noticed no markings...... so i stopped and lined the old gear up with the IE gear then cross checked my markings with the old crank pulley vs. the fluid damper. had i not done this before installing the IE crank gear life would of been much more difficult come time to set the motor timing. the crank pulley can fit onto the gear in any direction so its important to pay attention during install. 

this photo shows the fluid damper (6 hole FSI style) laying over top of a 1.8t pulley. the hole marked with sharpie (under the 18.1 text) lines up with the key way in the crank/crank gear. this will keep the timing mark on the pulleys edge in the proper location.










here is a shot of the timing marks on the edge of the fluid damper (on top) and stock 1.8t pulley on bottom when lining up the center bore and mounting hole that is inline with the key way. 










there was no documentation supplied with the IE crank gear so i am guessing others may find this info helpful. 

now for the motor........

starting to install the turbo bits and work thru its issues.



















wish i could find a better place to hide the w/m distribution block but it is looking this is the best place for it to go. i am going to look into using a breaded line to move the solenoid to a better location. 










about time to focus on the cooling system also


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

a note for myself .............. this should keep me from losing what size the water lines are......

water at turbo fittings -6

billet coolant parts

-16 (orb)

-12

-10 (orb)

billet heater core fittings -10 (orb) 7/8-14

-16 hose is 1" id

-10 hose is 5/8" id

water return at the block 14mm x 1.5 thread banjo bolt or an adapter

turbo oil supply line -4

turbo oil return line -10

turbo water supply/return line 14mm x 1.5


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

had a few mins today so i programed the CNC and fired off an direct bolt-on mount for my USRT Direct port water/meth injection distribution block. took a few revisions but i think this is the spot where things will work well. its low enough not jump out at your too much but easy to get at. 




















i dropped it down a bit to help things tuck into the shadows of the cooling and boost system. if its up a bit high a new bracket will be mad to drop it a bit more.


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Looking forward to seeing your results with direct port water/meth spraying.... I have 2 nozzles now and am at 12 degrees advace with 31 psi of boost and not getting hardly any knock correction.. Wonder how much more a person could get with direct port....

Also would like to hear how it will run between shifts,even though there is a solenoid there is still a fair amount of methanol in the lines and distibuter block thats going to suck into intake causing a rev hang I would guess due to exra fuel being burned
Digging the build by the way:thumbup:


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

I still dont know why CTS uses the old style wastegate flanges instead of a v-band flange.


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## Sickws6 (Nov 23, 2013)

Damn man nice work!


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

slightly dedicating some TT time to do a bit of t-belt testnig over in the 1.8t forums...... 

here is a product pagparts was nice enough to bring to light in a thread about broken t-belts. factory issue non hydro t-belt tensioner setup. it has a spring loaded roller to help control load on the t-belt.










once this step s finished the motor gets to join backup with its old friend the transmision..... well new friend as im going to pop in the 6spd tranny that's been collecting dust ever since i had it freshened up back in 2005.......


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## Jwile (Apr 16, 2002)

I'm in the same boat as well , years away from the boards and have never had the car running good shape after i started my build and motivation went down hill ...among other things ...$$ being another

Welcome back and good luck on your return

I'll deff be paying attention to the thread and will be starting a new one for myself


Jeremy


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

its been a minute since i have worked on this project but today i got some updated info about an upgrade soon to be on its way!......






umpkin:


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

projects not dead just hit a bit of a slump......... but things are picking back up.

after getting the motor mostly put together it took it back apart in preparation for installing the block back into the car.











upon removing the t-stat housing i discovered this....... 










now i understand why the car ran a bit warmer than i liked at all times. :banghead:


slightly sad boxing these up for safe keeping till they get to be finally installed










hard to believe this is a freshly rebuilt 6spd that's never been installed........ 










so trans and bevel box got a bath










much better....... also amazed how how poor quality the case casting is, got a good look at it while cleaning. 










the clutch-NET flywheel has less than 500 miles on it and 2 trips to the dyno. i installed it per instructions to a T and see the resulting damage from the overly soft steel washer clutch-NET supplied with the flywheel. only 2 bolts were event remotely close to tight by the time i took the flywheel out. (i am referring to the "cone" where the bolt heads rest, this should be flat and smooth)










to fix the issue i took about .060 off the surface of the flywheel and machined a 4130 chromoly washer .120 thick. this should provide max clamping force for the life of the flywheel mixed with the ARP bolts that are about .125 longer than stock. 










now that its time to start installing parts, i decided its a good time to make some custom tools to help make life easier.










decided not to get the billet bits powder coated or anodized at this point so to help them stay corrosion free i applied some home chemical treatment. not sure how it will hold up but for the price i can do it a few times if needed.










tool cart made a good drying rack



















this package arrived a few days ago and lit a bit of interest in me to get the project back onto the road.


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## suffocatemymind (Dec 10, 2007)

Awesome progress :thumbup:


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

got the freshly rebuilt 6speed tranny painted










clutch setup










made a chain spreader to help keep the chain out of the valve cover while lifting the motor










hope this is the last time i see the flywheel for a long time











took this photo while thinking to myself......... funny the large torque wrench puts the flywheel onto the motor and the small torque wrench installs the pressure plate but both are working together to hold the power










its fun doing this part on your own.... 










even more fun when you exhaust yourself trying to install the tranny to discover a 50cent piece of steel is in the way. seems the car that donated the 6speed tranny left its alignment dowel stuck in the tranny.










dowel that should be in the block, and in fact was in the block being used.










few small details to take care of before this is ready to set into the car.


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

You have an eclectic taste in color.


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

getting a few tools ready 










this flipping bolt..... each time i work a quattro car this bolt i fear the most. had a case a while ago where this bolt was stripped out.... and its mega hard to get at for extraction. 










it goes inside the passenger side cv cup. it screws into the center of the diff thru the bevel box.










i got the Bentley manual out to see what the torque spec for this bolt is as i never bothered to look it up before. to my surprise it doesn't seem to be listed at all not even as part of the removal/install of the bevel box :sly:

so far this 10yr old tool has held up to 8+ clutch jobs, Ive never found an "official" tool for the job.










100% stock T-belt setup










the magic roller fro the fsi motors that also works on 1.8t's. see how the spring uses the frost plug to build tension against.










snapped a few shots of how tight things are with the motor mount installed on the block. this is why i ditched the IE solid roller setup, i am sick of trying to get 2 tools at the same time into this space to adjust the roller periodically. 




























at this point the motors almost ready to set into the car


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

I'm excited to learn more about the timing belt tensioner pulley you used. There was a lot of talk about that awhile back and I never really heard some final reviews on it.

Personally, I think it looks like a great part. Simple = good in my book. It's a tensioner wheel with a built in tensioner spring. No assemblies. No manual adjustments. No hydraulic fluid. Just a spring loaded pulley. Simple.

What did it take to get on there? Any shims/ non 1.8t oem parts? What were the part numbers?


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Looks like a tensioner from a 2.0T? I did a timing belt on one a few months back, pretty straight forward set up. I don't think you would need to shim anything, as you can adjust how far you put the stud into the head, at least that's how it is set up on a 2.0T. (I understand that it's meant for a 2.0T)


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## GasInMyVeins (Jul 11, 2010)

I'm in for more info on that tensioner. I noticed it when I did a timing belt change on my B7 A4 and wondered about making it work on the 1.8T.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

18T_BT said:


> Looks like a tensioner from a 2.0T? I did a timing belt on one a few months back, pretty straight forward set up. I don't think you would need to shim anything, as you can adjust how far you put the stud into the head, at least that's how it is set up on a 2.0T. (I understand that it's meant for a 2.0T)


A quick bit of research tells me these are the parts...

...This should work very well for the tensioner part of the equation...
2.0t FSI tensioner - Mfg#: 06D109243C - $138.80 @ ECS
Stud - Mfg#: N0444356 - $0.99 @ ECS
Stud Nut - Mfg#: N01100845 - $1.18 @ ECS

................

The roller part of the equation I am less sure of...The OP of this thread has an OEM type piece for the roller. I think the IE billet idler bracket would probably work just as well. The 06a block does not have a bolt hole in the correct location to mount the roller, so you need a bracket of some type. Can anyone chime in with the appropriate bracket here?

Timing Belt Idler Roller Lower - Mfg#: 06B109244 - $54.81 @ ECS
bracket - ??? - ???


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

there is a build someplace on vortex where the owner removed the hydro cylinder from his tensioner accomplishing the same level of usefulness as buying the IE part but at zero additional cost to the owner. i will double check the spring loaded idler for a part # next time i am in the shop. the key to getting the 2.0t idler to fit the 1.8t is a step down stud in place of the stock bolt. I didn't bother to check its specs before installing but i am guessing it was 10mm going into the head and stepped down immediately after threading into the head to 8mm for the idler to fit properly. 

this photo isnt the best quality but you can see the step down stud to the right of the tensioner replacement piece. 










as for how the idler functions, you set the tab into the frost plug then use an allen key to rotate the idler around till 2 marks line up then tighten the idler in place. this sets the springs preload and saves you from having to worry about adjusting it down the road like the 16v idler requires.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

I got the kit from blauparts and this is what their stud looked like:















http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/Tensioner_Stud/ES908/


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/Tensioner_Stud/ES466486/


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/Tensioner_Stud/ES467164/


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

18T_BT said:


> I got the kit from blauparts and this is what their stud looked like:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Right, but that is just the tensioner. What about the roller?


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

the stud pag supplied looks like this










i didn't measure anything to do with the stud.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

groggory said:


> Right, but that is just the tensioner. What about the roller?




http://news.blauparts.com/20140708-product-update-audi-a4-timing-belt-kit-1-8t-awm

http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=GH21613-2-A

I think this may be the part number: 06A 109 181 someone with ETKA should confirm.

I think this the real manufacturer: http://toc.luk-as.de/web/schaeffler...cationSearch.xhtml?result=1422829168249&csc=1

More info: http://www.niparts.com/s_C6EDB0/06A109181.html


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

made some progress over the weekend 

day started off with the car looking like this











forgot how fun it is getting the motor and AWD to play nice during install.










small celebration beverage.......










turbo was too large to install in 1 piece so i had to set the exhaust housing into place then the center cartage and finally the compressor housing.










quick shot of the compressor housing, these GTX turbos are a work of art










once the turbo was in place i went after getting this into place










turns out the easiest way to install the downpipe and wastegate is to install them before the turbo










now to start building boost tubes










have just about enough room to got up a size on the turbo before the firewall will be an issue


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

time for boost tubes. plan is to run a 4" intake, but it may not be an easy task.










going to rework the in/out lets of the intercooler. looking to avoid the intercooler and bumper running into each other as much has possible and the in/out lets seem to be the main issue at this time. 










been moving slow since i have had a few other projects taking place at the same time


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

not much progress but did get back into boost tubes. looking like the FMIC is going to need some cutting and welding for things to fit properly. minimally the end tanks need adjusting as the hose connections are much too close to the frame to fit the proper tight radius bend up to them.


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