# Turbo to charge pipe hose (CLAMP FAILURE)



## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

I'm having trouble keeping a clamp tight on the turbo to charge pipe hose. The damn clamp comes loose after just a short time. So far I've tried everything. I have a t-bolt to try on the stock hose as soon as the turbo cools down. But the width of the t-bolt clamp is a little too wide to fit in the groove of the stock hose. I Might have to grind down a few mm of width off of the T-bolt. No matter how tight I clamp down on it, it comes loose. If I crank down on it too much I strip the clamp:banghead:
Anyone else have a hard time with this clamp/location?


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## 20psi now (Feb 26, 2009)

i had problems with my charge pipe hose (the one by the intake manifold) and i just put a t-bolt on it and never had a problem with it after that, now in your case i would tell you spray it down with brake clean and make sure there is no oil on the pipes and buy a new clamp and go from there or find a thinner t-bolt that will work.. i never had problems with the oem (dubble loop thing) :laugh: that they have going on..


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

I've tried several new clamps of all different designs. The issue isn't with the hose coming off. The bolt head on the clamp will actually unscrew itself at least a couple turns. If I can find a way to get a Nordlock in there Ill try that as well.


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## Late__Apex (Dec 2, 2007)

warranty225cpe said:


> I've tried several new clamps of all different designs. The issue isn't with the hose coming off. The bolt head on the clamp will actually unscrew itself at least a couple turns. If I can find a way to get a Nordlock in there Ill try that as well.


Loctite? Second nut?


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

Havent had the problem myself but I slipped a spent DV oring in that groove on the compressor inlet and then clamped. No issues, fills the void and keeps it from cutting the silcone as well. 

Joe


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Late__Apex said:


> Loctite? Second nut?


I might try that if I can't get the. Next clamp to hold.


RabbitGTDguy said:


> Havent had the problem myself but I slipped a spent DV oring in that groove on the compressor inlet and then clamped. No issues, fills the void and keeps it from cutting the silcone as well.
> 
> Joe


That's the tip, I'm talking about the hose on the other end of the turbo.


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

My bad...didn't connect on that. I will tell you that the clamps from Forge that you can buy for their silicone, etc are excellent, don't cut and can be torqued! On the tbolt clamps, not all are created equal! I have seen a number that are cheap and weak, usually the fault is with a poor grade nylon locker on the nut...plus, in the outlet pipe location the poor quality nylon probably would fail with the heat off the turbo and the manifold itself causing it to loosen constantly.

Joe


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## The_RoadWarrior (Nov 21, 2011)

Spring loaded constant torque clamps and problem solved :beer:

http://www.turbohoses.com/Spring-Loaded.gif


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## deltaP (Jul 26, 2011)

Look at the Aviation field. Use a nut with holes and use safety wire. It will NEVER come off unless you clip the wire.


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## 20psi now (Feb 26, 2009)

The_RoadWarrior said:


> Spring loaded constant torque clamps and problem solved :beer:
> 
> http://www.turbohoses.com/Spring-Loaded.gif


this is the style of clamp tha we use on the semi's at work, they never want to come off and there some tuff clamps! if you have the room to place them on the tt i would use them everywhere :laugh:.. only down fall is there not on the cheap side.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

deltaP said:


> Look at the Aviation field. Use a nut with holes and use safety wire. It will NEVER come off unless you clip the wire.


The t-bolts I have are considered "aircraft grade". Not sure how you would use safety wire to lock it down. I'll have to take a look and see how it would work. The problem with using a t-bolt is the width of the clamp. If its not wider than the flange, it's pretty damn close. I might have to shave a few mm off of both sides of the clamp (buckle and all). Not a fun venture.:banghead:


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Just found these at Fastenall. I have some Nordlock washers also that im going to add to the equation. 
What a great place to spend money. Lol
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0427720&ucst=t

I also ordered a new Forge hose for that charge pipe location. The last one I bought I accidentally took off too much trimming it. If this doesn't do it, I'm going to weld a new charge pipe to the turbo:banghead::facepalm:


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## deltaP (Jul 26, 2011)

warranty225cpe said:


> Just found these at Fastenall. I have some Nordlock washers also that im going to add to the equation.
> What a great place to spend money. Lol
> http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0427720&ucst=t
> 
> I also ordered a new Forge hose for that charge pipe location. The last one I bought I accidentally took off too much trimming it. If this doesn't do it, I'm going to weld a new charge pipe to the turbo:banghead::facepalm:


safetywire a clamp 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8KeUGbWuQE&feature=player_embedded#!


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

deltaP said:


> safetywire a clamp
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8KeUGbWuQE&feature=player_embedded#!


AWESOME!! What a great find!


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

deltaP said:


> safetywire a clamp
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8KeUGbWuQE&feature=player_embedded#!


I tried this today. Everyone looked at me like I was an idiot when I asked for "safety wire". People are stupid. I ended up picking up wire that wasnt up to the task and kept snapping. I need to find safety wire.


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## mr.ramsey (Apr 9, 2008)

Try a Tractor Supply store if there are any nearby you.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

mr.ramsey said:


> Try a Tractor Supply store if there are any nearby you.


I plan on hitting up Fastenal tomorrow.


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## deltaP (Jul 26, 2011)

warranty225cpe said:


> AWESOME!! What a great find!


Call your local airport, they will have it. uuse 0.032:beer:


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## Nihuel (Mar 31, 2010)

haha Great fix! I'm jumping rite on it :beer:


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

I've found the best clamps are from West Marine.

I've never had one break, rust or corrode on me. I mean they are built to withstand salt water...


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

*:update:*

Well guys, the safety wire trick seems to work really well. I ended up picking up a spool of wire and mini vice grips for the job. I'm going to post a little YouTube vid to show the easiest way to do it.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Having trouble loading to YouTube, so here's a p-bucket link..

http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp199/Eskougor/8fbf53c2.mp4


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## deltaP (Jul 26, 2011)

opcorn:


warranty225cpe said:


> Well guys, the safety wire trick seems to work really well. I ended up picking up a spool of wire and mini vice grips for the job. I'm going to post a little YouTube vid to show the easiest way to do it.



opcorn::beer:


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

is the bolt unscrewing? 
safety wire is to keep it a screw/bolt from backing out...if the pressure is just making the pipe slip out from under the clamp...safety wire ain't gonna help.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Krissrock said:


> is the bolt unscrewing?
> safety wire is to keep it a screw/bolt from backing out...if the pressure is just making the pipe slip out from under the clamp...safety wire ain't gonna help.


No, the hose isn't slipping off. The clamp is coming loose (like 2-3 full turns). But I'm starting to think that the heat from the turbo is backing off the clamp, but not turning the bolt.:banghead: I do have a plan for that though. I'll be trying something different to keep that from happening. Might have to drill few holes in one of the bands so I can safety wire the band instead of the adjustment bolt.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

How does heat make a worm clamp back off but not unscrew? Everyone has the same turbo, the same "heat", and the same hose on the stock turbo. I really think you guys overthink a lot of this stuff. Either your clamp is crap or you're not getting it on tight enough to do the job, one of the two.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

20v master said:


> How does heat make a worm clamp back off but not unscrew? Everyone has the same turbo, the same "heat", and the same hose on the stock turbo. I really think you guys overthink a lot of this stuff. Either your clamp is crap or you're not getting it on tight enough to do the job, one of the two.


I'm going to have to agree with the above. Buy a quality clamp and get it on there correctly. West Marine or McMaster.

Many other TT owners own an aftermarket TIP and have never had an issue.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

20v master said:


> How does heat make a worm clamp back off but not unscrew? Everyone has the same turbo, the same "heat", and the same hose on the stock turbo. I really think you guys overthink a lot of this stuff. Either your clamp is crap or you're not getting it on tight enough to do the job, one of the two.


Can't tell you why, but that's what's happening. If creating a solution to a problem is over thinking, then I guess that's what I'm doing. This has happened with EVERY clamp Ive tried, so it's not a case of crap clamps. Any tighter and they would strip.



DougLoBue said:


> I'm going to have to agree with the above. Buy a quality clamp and get it on there correctly. West Marine or McMaster.
> Many other TT owners own an aftermarket TIP and have never had an issue.


 Im Not talking about the cold side of the turbo


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Technically you are talking about the cold side, you just are dealing with the outlet, not the inlet. Either way, if its every clamp you tried, then I'd say that either the clamps are crappy like said, or you're doing something wrong. After your many other adventures of fixing things that most people don't have problems with, I'd say the same thing. Pictures would really help us help you.


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

Take a look at the tip of the outlet. Make sure there is enough of a lip to keep the clamp from slipping off with the hose. At worst you could take some jb weld and build that lip up or just a few small dots to keep that hose on with just a simple worm clamp that came stock.


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## The_RoadWarrior (Nov 21, 2011)

This problem is real and I personally went through it. The mistake here is that the focus is being placed on clamps and not the real problem, the OEM outlet hose. After trying with good spring loaded constant torque clamps and failing to have the hose stay leak free, I looked at the real problem. The OEM hose is designed with a lip ( a few mm from the edge of hose) that makes it impossible to have a good flat surface for wider aftermarket clamps. The t-bolts and constant torque clamps are wider and sit over that lip or under it for a less than optimal clamping. An aftermarket hose that is flat on the outer clamping area and the problem is solved (even with normal clamps).


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

He has an aftermarket hose. So now what's the problem?


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## The_RoadWarrior (Nov 21, 2011)

20v master said:


> He has an aftermarket hose. So now what's the problem?


He now has an aftermarket hose, before that he was battling the OEM POS.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Ive got the day off tomorrow. I'm going to tear it all apart again and see if I can get a better connection. Theoretically I shouldn't be having any problems.. So much for that..


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