# DIY for Mk2 1.8L (8v) cam swap....where?



## rallyplasma (Apr 30, 2012)

Hey guys,

I am going to be doing a camshaft swap in my digi2 1.8L 8v. from the oem to a TT 266 cam plus replacing the lifters. I have the bentley and it looks fairly easy and actually surprised me at how short the description was for it but anyway, my question is:

Does anyone have a link to a DIY with photos and good detail for this SPECIFIC engine cam swap?

I did a search and found a bunch of stuff for mk3/ABA but nothing for the Mk2 basic 1.8L 8v motor.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

pretty much the same on all the 8V motors, 1.5,1.6,1.7,1.8,2.0.


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## ny_fam (Apr 3, 2004)

Some advice from when I've swapped cams on a similar engine.
1) put the engine at TDC prior to any part removal. Use some chalk to mark things so you'll know if anything moves during disassembly or assembly.

2) before your initial run of the engine with the new cam installed and rest of the components assembled, double check the TDC marks on cam, bell housing and distributor.
Cheers
ny_fam


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## rallyplasma (Apr 30, 2012)

ny_fam said:


> Some advice from when I've swapped cams on a similar engine.
> 1) put the engine at TDC prior to any part removal. Use some chalk to mark things so you'll know if anything moves during disassembly or assembly.
> 
> 2) before your initial run of the engine with the new cam installed and rest of the components assembled, double check the TDC marks on cam, bell housing and distributor.
> ...


Thank you for this!! I am probably going to attempt this next week on Thursd or Fri. I am actually in a auto shop class that meets 1x/week and I have access to a ASE certified mechanic. I dont know if he has extensive experience on VW's but I figure between my constant and diligent reading of the Bentley and with him watching me, I should be ok. Are there any parts of this swap or details that might be a VW specific trick or wrinkle that I should be aware of or is this type of thing very basic (basic to a mechanic but not to me i meant) job?

Also, assuming I watch to make sure the engine stays @ TDC before and after, is it possible to do this swap without having to do the timing again on the car? Is it possible basically to remove cover carefully following the instructions in Bentley and swapping cam, removing old followers and installing new ones, and then sealing up again (with new gasket etc) and not need to adjust timing again and just wait the 30 min they say before starting up again?


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## WaterWheels (Aug 14, 2005)

Sure to receive some flak from this but it is my opinion that if you are in a class then learn. Tricks and such are fine if you first understand why you are or can use a short cut of some kind. Just learning short cuts and tricks does not really teach you anything. Making sure the all marks are lined up and stay that way is not required or stated (that I recall) in a manual. That is a short cut for not wanting to do the complete job in a way. And then if you walk away to pee or smoke a cigarette and some clown moves the car a little or rotates the crankshaft or whatever, then where are you? Either posting here that you did this work and your car will not start, please help, or digging the manual out and now doing it by the book. Don't think I'm being a jerk, I just would rather see people learn than learn to copy.

By three methods we may learn wisdom: First, by reflection, which is noblest; Second, by imitation, which is easiest; and third by experience, which is the bitterest.
*Confucius *


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## rallyplasma (Apr 30, 2012)

WaterWheels said:


> Sure to receive some flak from this but it is my opinion that if you are in a class then learn. Tricks and such are fine if you first understand why you are or can use a short cut of some kind. Just learning short cuts and tricks does not really teach you anything. Making sure the all marks are lined up and stay that way is not required or stated (that I recall) in a manual. That is a short cut for not wanting to do the complete job in a way. And then if you walk away to pee or smoke a cigarette and some clown moves the car a little or rotates the crankshaft or whatever, then where are you? Either posting here that you did this work and your car will not start, please help, or digging the manual out and now doing it by the book. Don't think I'm being a jerk, I just would rather see people learn than learn to copy.
> 
> By three methods we may learn wisdom: First, by reflection, which is noblest; Second, by imitation, which is easiest; and third by experience, which is the bitterest.
> *Confucius *



While I described it is a "auto shop class", it's really more of a shop session where I have access to a mechanic, as do other people in the session but I am pretty much on my own for the most part. So I cant really say that I will have as much access to him as I would like. This is not a "learn to be a mechanic class", its really more of an open shop time with access to tools and a lift.

As far as getting "flak" for essentially trying to tell me that I should "learn" and not try to seek all the "short cuts", yeah, I'll give you a little flak,.... but only because what you said was somewhat presumptive. It presumed that I don't want to learn or that I am seeking some sort of short cut because I am lazy. This isnt the case. If you knew me and my story regarding this car and my choice for taking this "shop class" then you would know it is exactly the opposite situation in fact.

I guess in order to NOT get this kind of response I need to be even more explicit around WHY I am asking a question vs. the focus being ON the actual question. 

The reason for my question is because I am not familiar enough with auto mechanics that I can not afford to screw something up that is so obvious for probably 99% of people on this forum. Let me be clear, I have not ever really taken a wrench to a car except for changing oil, topping fluids and installing mudflaps etc. I dont have a background in automotive theory or an engineering degree like many car aficionados. And believe me, I wish I did! But I am trying and hopefully in a few years things will be different. I am currently doing a lot of reading beyond the Bentley and hope to build the knowledge theoretically AND practically in the near future. 

What I was really driving at with my question was whether there were any wrinkles or small VW-specific tricks (ooops I used that word again..) or elements to this job that a generalist mechanic might not have at the forefront of his mind but where a VW specialist would. I would probably also ask about anything that might have been left out of the Bentley manual but that I should be sure not to forget or overlook. 

Anyway, I hope you dont take offense to my response....none was taken from you and none was meant towards you. As far as this job, and if you are so inclined, I could use any useful comments or advice on this job that you might be wise enough to share. Especially stuff that isnt in the Bentley. No sarcasm. I am eager to learn, not eager to ruin my car, and could use any help offered. Thanks!


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## WaterWheels (Aug 14, 2005)

"I am eager to learn, not eager to ruin my car, and could use any help offered. . . . I am currently doing a lot of reading beyond the Bentley and hope to build the knowledge theoretically AND practically in the near future." 

That's good to hear and your at least started on the right track by going beyond reading the Bentley manual. Be advised that there are some mistakes and vague explanations in that book too so don't think of it as a Bible, think of it as a good or first reference material. Your description of just where you are working was good to at least clear up the situation, but it does not alter for the most part what I posted. 

It is understandable that you do not want to or fear causing damage to your car by making a mistake. Understand also though that you will, you will mis-step here and there along the way and screw something up or even break things. The key is to first try to understand what you are doing, how the part or system functions and why you are doing the repairs or modifications. If you take the time to learn these things before doing the work, the mistakes will be fewer. Also don't let the fear of screwing something up stop you from trying, that is the ". . . third by experience, which is the bitterest" which Confucius stated. That is the basic reason for my trying to steer you away from first wanting to hear short cuts or tricks (tips are fine). As a short example, there is a little trick to changing timing belts that uses making marks on the belt and gears before removing the old belt. Then you transfer the marks on the old belt to the new one and when installing it you just line all the marks back up as before and your done. It is almost idiot proof, but what did one learn when using this trick? Nothing you did not already learn when you were a baby putting the square block in the square hole.

Here's a little for the record and to maybe help. Some are for sure in the books but could be missed:
~ Your working with a Digifant engine - be 100% sure that you replace the ground wires if you removed them, or check them anyway. Trying to start an engine that uses Digifant and has loose or missing grounds, the ones in the engine harness, will almost always burn out the ECU.
~ Use break-in lube or assembly lube. Use it generously on the camshaft lobes and the tops of the followers, but don't use any on the camshaft journals. Use clean engine oil on them and the sides of the followers. Yes some of the break-in and assembly lubes are oil soluble, but it is a good practice to not coat those areas with it.
~ Research "camshaft break-in procedures" over the Internet. Many people will tell you it is not needed or required because of this or that, but all, well maybe not all, camshaft grinders post them and will void a warrantee if you fail to use them.
~ Once the camshaft is in and torqued down, wait at least a half hour before starting the engine. They need to "leak down" and if you start it before this period it will be noisy, run crappy and on some engines it could bend a valve. I have found it takes longer then a half hour on new followers sometimes.
~ If for some reason you have to rotate the engine, once the timing belt is on, do it at the crankshaft. Doing it at the camshaft can cause the belt to slip and even rip or chunk. And remember to remove the wrench on the crankshaft before starting the engine (don't ask).
~ There is a procedure for removing and installing the camshaft bearing saddle bolts, follow it! It might say in the book that you can damage the camshaft or break it if you fail to use the sequence. Believe what is written! I have broken two brand new camshafts by thinking I was smarter then the people who wrote the manual.
~ Once you are ready to turn the key and start the engine, DON'T. Take a break, walk away for a little while and then return and inspect everything one last time.

"Anyway, I hope you dont take offense to my response....none was taken from you and none was meant towards you."

I'm not 100% sure you're being completely truthful here. 

" . . . but only because what you said was somewhat presumptive. It presumed that I don't want to learn or that I am seeking some sort of short cut because I am lazy . . .I guess in order to NOT get this kind of response I need to be even more explicit around WHY I am asking a question vs. the focus being ON the actual question . . . or small VW-specific tricks (ooops I used that word again..)"

But if you read back through my response above, you will find no mention or even presumption of you being lazy or not wanting to learn. Those feeling you decided to inject into the mix on your own. Doesn't bother me, not much does, but they didn't come from me.


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## rallyplasma (Apr 30, 2012)

WaterWheels said:


> "I am eager to learn, not eager to ruin my car, and could use any help offered. . . . I am currently doing a lot of reading beyond the Bentley and hope to build the knowledge theoretically AND practically in the near future."
> 
> That's good to hear and your at least started on the right track by going beyond reading the Bentley manual. Be advised that there are some mistakes and vague explanations in that book too so don't think of it as a Bible, think of it as a good or first reference material. Your description of just where you are working was good to at least clear up the situation, but it does not alter for the most part what I posted.
> 
> ...



Fair enough, but as I said, no offense intended. Sorry if I misunderstood or injected something in there that was in fact not there.

Regardless, your advice is timely, incredibly useful and I am appreciative for your sharing.

It was exactly what I was looking for.....and of course I'll report back with how things went.

Thanks again!


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## WaterWheels (Aug 14, 2005)

Just a small tid-bit for the future. Take it or leave it but it has been said "He who highlight everything, highlights nothing". I kind of think that this advise goes for quoting too. I know what I wrote so you don't have to quote my entire post. If you need to address something I've said, quote just that part.


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## LT1M21Stingray (Sep 14, 2006)

rallyplasma said:


> ..., is it possible to do this swap without having to do the timing again on the car? Is it possible basically to remove cover carefully following the instructions in Bentley and swapping cam, removing old followers and installing new ones, and then sealing up again (with new gasket etc) and not need to adjust timing again and just wait the 30 min they say before starting up again?


Yeah, it is possible. Fast short cut procedure:

1. Remove valve cover.
2. Remove cam pulley bolt.
3. Have an assistant wiggle and remove the timing belt pulley. Make sure your assistant holds the timing belt pulley so the timing belt stays tight for the rest of the procedure. Best done if the motor is cold.
4. Remove camshaft caps following the procedure in the Bentley.
5. Transfer key way to new camshaft.
6. Install new camshaft and caps following procedure in the Bentley.
7. Install timing belt pulley.
8. Install valve cover.


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

A real easy way is to apply a mark to both the belt and sprockets, I use whiteout. I then transfer the marks on the belt to a new belt and install the new belt, line up the marks and everything is as it once was, only better.


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## rallyplasma (Apr 30, 2012)

Guys,

thanks very much for the words of advice. i ended up doing it this evening in my class. it took me close to 3.5 hours and i felt like i was going fast. i did have to call in the instructor a handful of times to help with some of the tricky parts. there were also at least 5 or 6 moments where i was completly lost and the instructor knew exactly what to do. The Bentley is great and def gave me an overview of what i was about to do but realistically it only described about 50% of what I ended up doing. thanks again !


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Glad you got thru it. In time you'll be able to swap a cam out on about 30-45 minutes. And if it's a solid lifter cam, add another 15-20 to adjust the clearances.:thumbup:

It mostly depends upon how much stuff you have to take off to actually get at the belt.


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## rallyplasma (Apr 30, 2012)

ps2375 said:


> Glad you got thru it. In time you'll be able to swap a cam out on about 30-45 minutes. And if it's a solid lifter cam, add another 15-20 to adjust the clearances.:thumbup:
> 
> It mostly depends upon how much stuff you have to take off to actually get at the belt.


Yes, your right! and another thing that i didnt do was label all the nuts and pieces involved. When I was done and putting everything back together I had a tough time remembering where everything went. in the end it all worked out. thnx again!


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