# Replacing front Antiroll (aka Sway) Bar Droplinks [TOC]



## mattsimis (Sep 19, 2005)

*Replacing front Antiroll (aka Sway) Bar Droplinks*

Just some tips on anyone thinking about doing this, its very easy. I had my Phaeton in for a checkup with VW and they recommended changing the front left and right Droplinks. I was starting to hear an annoying clunking noise, strangely on the drivers side, so I was relieved to hear the Droplinks were the cause, not expensive suspension components. The Droplinks were only EUR47 plus Tax each!
*What are they*
Droplinks secure the AntiRoll Bar (aka ARB or rather strangely "Sway Bars" on US forums) to the car. ARBs function is to limit body roll when cornering (ie limit "Swaying"). Droplinks wear, ARBs effectively do not wear (its a heavy duty metal bar). Droplinks are made of either strong plastics or metal, with rubber end pieces to allow some movement. Eventually the rubber wears down (or the plastic breaks if plastic Droplinks).
*Tools Needed*
-Hydraulic Jack
-2x 2.5ton+ Axle Jack Stands
-Ratchet Set, heavy and light duty 
-18mm Socket for ratchet 
-18 or 19mm Spanner to secure a nut. 
-Possibly a Breaker Bar with a Socket fitting

Anyway:
Put car in Jack up mode (Press and Hold Ride Height + Suspension Setting button for 10sec till image on dash appears)
Jack up car on both sides, wheels and underbelly tray *do not* have to come off. *Do not* jack up so high the wheels are floating in the air, you need some pressure on the ARB to ensure the bolts line up and come out and go in easily.








The droplinks are on the far left and right side of a bar (the ARB) that runs along the bottom of the car, just behind the plastic underbelly tray. Here you can see my left one (shiny and new) after replacement and the right one (dirty) before replacement: 








The droplinks look like this out of the car:








They are held in with 2x *18mm bolts*. The bottom bolt goes straight into the ARB (the aforementioned bar) and the top bolt attaches the droplink to the suspension component and its secured with a nut.
You can remove both 18mm bolts with a good ratchet, though you may need a Breaker bar with 18mm socket on it to loosen them. Secure the nut with a Spanner and just tackle the bolts directly with the ratchet.
When installing the new Droplinks, note they *do have a specific orientation!*. On one side is PN text (as in the image above), on the other side is an arrow. The arrow goes on the outside of the droplink (on outside side and pointing forward to the front of the car). If in doubt just look at the stock Droplinks as installed. 
Reinstalling new parts - put in top bolt and nut combo first and tighten slightly. If the bottom bolt , with its pointed tip (threaded into arb directly) doesnt line up with the ARB anymore, use a hydraulic jack to gentley lift the ARB at the point it meets the droplink. 
Ensure the new bolts are very securely tightened, perhaps consider using thread-lock on them. 
It should take you less than an hour if the bolts come out easily enough. 
Here are some comparative images of the 5 year old stock Droplink and the new one. The stock part was very badly worn around the rubber, but the droplink itself was fine, it seems to be made of a very high quality lightweight aluminium. 




_Modified by mattsimis at 8:24 PM 6-12-2009_


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## murphybaileysam (Dec 29, 2005)

Thanks for the informative post! Unfortunately if I ever am in need of this, I'll have to factor in the price of a round trip ticket to Ireland for you to come and do it!


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## george777 (Feb 1, 2008)

*Re: (murphybaileysam)*

As mentioned, this is a very informative post (Thank You!), but if anyone ever saw me *'jack-up' *my Phaeton and do all this stuff to it, they'd think I'd flip my lid!!!!


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## dlouie (Oct 31, 2008)

*Re: Replacing front Antiroll (aka Sway) Bar Droplinks (mattsimis)*

Matt,
So did this cure your clunking noise? Thanks for the write up.
Damon


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## mattsimis (Sep 19, 2005)

Yep, completely! I found it unusual the most worn droplink was the drivers side, considering the road surface is much worse on the passenger side. I changed both though.


_Modified by mattsimis at 8:17 PM 6-12-2009_


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## VWGlf00GL (Feb 14, 2005)

*Re: Replacing front Antiroll (aka Sway) Bar Droplinks (mattsimis)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mattsimis* »_Just some tips on anyone thinking about doing this, its very easy. I had my Phaeton in for a checkup with VW and they recommended changing the front left and right Droplinks. I was starting to hear an annoying clunking noise, strangely on the drivers side, so I was relieved to hear the Droplinks were the cause, not expensive suspension components. The Droplinks were only EUR47 plus Tax each!

Matt!
Excellent write-up.. Quick, and really easy it seems. I'll file this one away, thanks for taking the time to write this up for us..
Crazy Question.. Because I don't know.. Would a wheel alignment be in order after such repair?
How does she drive now?








- Adrian


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## mattsimis (Sep 19, 2005)

*Re: Replacing front Antiroll (VWGlf00GL)*

Drives fine, smoother (noise wise) and a little tighter when cornering too. 
Shouldnt need an alignment as the ARB really only does its work when cornering and even then, you could drive without one at all, it would just body roll a lot more.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Replacing front Antiroll (mattsimis)*

Great post Matt, many thanks.
Michael


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## remrem (Jan 20, 2008)

*Re: Replacing front Antiroll (mattsimis)*

Recently I too was noticing a bit of a noise and a bumpier ride, and asked my Pheaton tech to have a look. He just informed me that this part (on the driver's side) is worn out and I need to replace it. Do you think I should replace the passenger side part while I'm at it, even if it's not completely worn out yet, or should I wait?


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## remrem (Jan 20, 2008)

*Re: Replacing front Antiroll (remrem)*

Since my Phaeton tech said the passenger side drop link still looks fine, he only replaced the worn out one on the driver's side. It solved the problem - no more clunking/clicking noise when going over bumps and the car feels tighter. About $100 to do the job. Small price to pay for such a significant improvement.


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

*Re: Replacing front Antiroll (remrem)*

Good to see someone fixing their car themselves!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif









-Josh


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## Jxander (Aug 5, 2008)

*Re: Replacing front Antiroll (aka Sway) Bar Droplinks (mattsimis)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mattsimis* »_Here are some comparative images of the 5 year old stock Droplink and the new one. The stock part was very badly worn around the rubber, but the droplink itself was fine, it seems to be made of a very high quality lightweight aluminium. 

_Modified by mattsimis at 8:24 PM 6-12-2009_

Does anyone know if the bushings are replaceable, since the aluminum arms are so robust? Seems like they should be able to press out and then press new ones in. If so, what about the more expensive control arms?


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

*Re: Replacing front Antiroll (Jxander)*

Those style of bushings are bonded in from the factory.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

*Re: Replacing front Antiroll (PowerDubs)*

they are fairly cheap on ebay. Dont buy at the dealer.


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## tgarbrecht (May 30, 2007)

*Re: Replacing front Antiroll (Slimjimmn)*

Slim Jim,
I have to disagree. I tried getting these links from two different "OEM" manufacturers of the links (One was Moog, the others name escapes me, but was via Amazon.com)
Either way, the holes in these replacement links *do not *fit the screws that are in the car. At the same time, the screws that come w/ the replacements are too small, and don't fit the car.
I've had to buy directly from VW
-Tyson


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## BltVWF (Oct 19, 2009)

*Re: Replacing front Antiroll (tgarbrecht)*

Just did both mine today. Raised the car to the HIGH suspension position and drove on ramps, so did not have to jack the car up.
The squeaking's gone - thank you for the write-up.
Eugene


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: Replacing front Antiroll (BltVWF)*

Eugene, did you have any difficulty getting the end of the sway bar to line up? I've just ordered the parts for mine, and that's the only part of the job that concerns me, assuming I can get the bolts off!


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## BltVWF (Oct 19, 2009)

*Re: Replacing front Antiroll (invisiblewave)*

No, I did not. As suggested, I used a floor jack to lift the bar a little to align the holes.
Note: the two bolts ARE different. The bolt that looks "usual" goes on the top, the the bolt that threads into the stabilizer bar has pointed end, and is a bit shorter. 
As per manual, toque them to 66 ft/lb and then another 1/4 of turn.
Good luck,
Eugene


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: Replacing front Antiroll (BltVWF)*

Thanks for the torque value, does that apply to both bolts? Is that the Bentley Manual you're referring to?


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## BltVWF (Oct 19, 2009)

*Re: Replacing front Antiroll (invisiblewave)*

I use ElsaWin v. 3.30 software. The relevant page is below:


Eugene

_Modified by BltVWF at 12:48 PM 12-17-2009_


_Modified by BltVWF at 2:01 PM 12-19-2009_


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## JiggyJoe (Apr 2, 2004)

*Re: Replacing front Antiroll (BltVWF)*

Thank you, sir. I believe I am suffering from the same issue on a 90+k mile vehicle... thanks for sharing!


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: Replacing front Antiroll (BltVWF)*

Knowing the torque values and actually torquing the bolts turned out to be two different things! It wasn't a technically difficult job, but getting a socket onto the bolts turned out to be somewhat problematic.
I tried the job first using jack stands, I jacked the car at the lifting points with a trolley jack (just inboard of the hand jack point), but couldn't get enough room to turn the breaker bar. I eventually put it on ramps which gave me just enough to get the bolts turning. After that it was pretty straightforward, except for getting the torque accurate (again due to lack of space). There's not a lot of room around the bolt heads themselves either, I needed a universal joint to get my torque wrench in there. An angled head would be useful as well.
I'm pretty sure this is what was causing the thumping noise. Now I have the old part off (I only did the driver's side), the metal grommets inside the rubber are sheared around the edges, presumably where they were impacting the aluminium surround.
Thanks to the contributors on this thread!


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## tgarbrecht (May 30, 2007)

*Re: Replacing front Antiroll (invisiblewave)*

no one above has spoken about the necessary lubrication of the links. 
I just replaced mine at 82k because of the creeking sound the front suspension made when it got cold and dry. . .put on the new ones and the creeking had not gone away.
The old links turned out to be just fine... just need some white lithium grease (per Pete, my trusty VW service advisor). 
I put on some Steely Dan, opened a winter Brew and replaced dry links with greasy links in about an hour, and had good results
still enjoying that Chariot ride







!
Tyson


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Replacing front Antiroll (tgarbrecht)*

Hi Tyson:
When you refer to "lubricating" the links, do you mean applying lubricant to the inside of the holes? I know that this must sound like the dumbest question ever, but I cannot think of anywhere else that lubricant would go.
Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Replacing front Antiroll (BltVWF)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BltVWF* »_As per manual, torque them to 66 ft/lb and then another 1/4 of turn.

Hi Eugene:
My experience with fasteners that have a "torque to _xx_, then another _xx_ of a turn" is that those fasteners are designed to deform slightly, and for that reason, they are normally single-use only fasteners.
Can anyone comment on this? 
Michael


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: Replacing front Antiroll (tgarbrecht)*

Having eyeballed them properly now, I definitely think the rubber (it feels like rubber, anyway) would benefit from lubrication. The inner metal grommet moves and deforms the rubber, so there's a potential for squeaks and creaks, and the old rubber was quite dry and brittle, which may well be helped by a regular application of grease. I'm planning to buy some grease today and put some on.
I should also add that I replaced the lower bolt that goes into the end of the anti-roll bar (the dealer had several in stock, presumably indicating that it's often replaced), and that removal of the lower engine cover (I didn't remove it), assuming it's easy to do, would probably help with access to the bolts, giving more range of movement on the wrench.


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## BltVWF (Oct 19, 2009)

*Re: Replacing front Antiroll (PanEuropean)*

Michael,
Yes, all "torque to yield" (TTY), also referred as "stetch-torque" fasteners are single-use only. In fact, the manual cleary states "always replace".
Eugene
"Unlike a conventional bolt, TTY bolts are tightened beyond their elastic range past their yield point from which the bolt material can recover to its original length, and into the plastic phase of the bolt material. The bolt is permanently stretched and for this reason should not be reused".


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## V10Mike (Jan 24, 2007)

*Re: Replacing front Antiroll (invisiblewave)*

I've just replaced both my links, and blissful silence has returned. They were badly broken up, and you could see where the metal of the link had been hitting the attachment bolts. I too found access to the bolts difficult, and it would have been much easier on ramps. One thing to bear in mind is that at least the bottom bolts going into the ARB should only be tightened with the car at normal ride height, otherwise the bushes will be in permanent shear which is certain to shorten their life. I just about managed this by turning the steering to full lock on either side, but ramps are really the way to go. Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this post.

_Quote, originally posted by *invisiblewave* »_ Having eyeballed them properly now, I definitely think the rubber (it feels like rubber, anyway) would benefit from lubrication. The inner metal grommet moves and deforms the rubber, so there's a potential for squeaks and creaks, and the old rubber was quite dry and brittle, which may well be helped by a regular application of grease. I'm planning to buy some grease today and put some on.

If your bushes benefit from lubrication, it can only be because they have failed. Intact bushes require no lubrication, and it might even damage the rubber.

_Modified by V10Mike at 10:49 AM 3-29-2010_


_Modified by V10Mike at 10:49 AM 3-29-2010_


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## hylko (Nov 17, 2009)

Hi there, just wondering where you got the links from at what price , thinking of replacing mine too. thanks HZ


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## V10Mike (Jan 24, 2007)

*Re: (hylko)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hylko* »_Hi there, just wondering where you got the links from at what price , thinking of replacing mine too. thanks HZ

I bought them from my local VW dealer, not even a luxury specialist. Note the part number for the link has been superceded by 3D0411317. Total cost including all the bolts and VAT was £88.67.


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## jkuisma (Nov 23, 2009)

*Re: (V10Mike)*


_Quote, originally posted by *V10Mike* »_
Note the part number for the link has been superceded by 3D0411317. 

This may be the case but my ETKA is not fresh enough to know about that. A part number change to 3D0 would indicate that it is nowadays a Phaeton-specific part - which it originally wasn't.
The original part number for Phaetons (at least 2002-2009) was 4E0 411 317 D and from the first code (4E0) you can read that the part originated from Audi A8 type 4E (2002-2009). 
It is not to be confused with 4D0 411 317 E which belongs to an Audi A8 type 4D (1994-2002). Ebay sellers commonly advertise the part ending in E because it was used in virtually all A6 series Audis and VW Passats of that era, too. It looks very similar - but surely does not match the Phaeton.
The right part, 4E0 411 317 D, was not that easy to come across from aftermarket vendors. It is available, though:
http://www.teiledirekt.de/prod...00590
EDIT: That's not the right part!!! I know because I have it here now. The part # was a perfect match. Some digging of ETKA revealed that the part ending in D is only used in armored A8's. Other A8 models (and the current Audi A6 typ. 4E) use the part ending in E. The difference is that the D is sturdier and uses 12mm bolts where the E part uses 10mm bolts. Not interchangeable! Seems that the careless aftermarket part producer prints both the E and D types on the same part though they are not the same!
Jouko


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## oldham4 (Apr 27, 2008)

*Re: Replacing front Antiroll (aka Sway) Bar Droplinks (mattsimis)*

For those that have heard this "cluynking noise" and have resolved it with changing the droplinks, when did you hear this noise? I am hearing a clunking at slow speeds like when driving through a parkinng garage. It sounds like it is coming from the back right wheel. Are these only on the front? At higher speeds, I do not hear it. This started happening after having my control arms replaced. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
George


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: Replacing front Antiroll (oldham4)*

That doesn't sound like a description of the clunking that I think came/is-coming-again from my droplinks. I replaced the driver's side, but now I think the passenger side needs doing. It very definitely comes from the front, down near the feet, and isn't speed-dependent. Having seen the link after it was removed, it appears that the noise is caused by failure of the rubber grommet allowing metal-on-metal contact. I'd suggest taking your back wheel off and having a good look at the metal parts surrounding the rubber on the control arm connections, although if they're new it's hard to see how it could be rubber failure. Did they replace the suspension members at the front or rear?


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## oldham4 (Apr 27, 2008)

*Re: Replacing front Antiroll (invisiblewave)*

They replaced the upper control arms (both front & rear) in the front suspension. I am wondering if the lower control arms could be making this sound. I was told that they need to be replaced as well.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

*Re: Replacing front Antiroll (oldham4)*

Didn't you say your noise was coming from the rear? Mine very definitely comes from the front, low down. If you look at the pictures in this thread, you can see the suspension member that connects to the lower end of the strut and which is also connected to the anti-roll (sway) bar via the droplinks (I assume this would be a "lower control arm"). All those joints have rubber, and the amount of degradation is relatively high in my experience. If you take one of the wheels off, it's pretty easy to see how badly worn your rubber is, and you'll probably also be able to see if there's been any metal-on-metal contact. If the droplinks haven't been replaced, but the upper control arms were worn to the point where they were, I'd definitely go with the droplinks next. If you do it yourself you're only looking at $90 a side, which in Phaeton maintenance terms is pocket change.


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## oldham4 (Apr 27, 2008)

*Re: Replacing front Antiroll (invisiblewave)*

Yes, the sound seems like it is coming from the rear, but it is hard to tell. I have to drive slowly with both right side windows open in order to hear it. I can barely hear it with the windows closed. Basically, I need to have someone sit on that side of the car & listen, perhaps with their head out to better discern front vs. back. 
I'll do that & then take a look behind both wheels. I'll let you know what I find out.
Thanks,
George


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

We can manufacture this part, we can also make it adjustable if you guys want.
However, our end links will not be rubber isolated bushings, they will be spherical stainless heim joints, and are more intended for crisp handling vs plush ride.
The cost of our versions with greasable heim joints would be in the area of $199/set.
I dont know if any of you would be interested in this as a GruvenParts.com project. I was notified by a board member and asked to quote on this project.
For reference, you can view our Audi TT/R32 adjustable swaybar end linkages here -
http://gruvenparts.com/website...id=60


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## Jorgsphaeton (Sep 8, 2009)

be sure you got the original antiroll bars, there are smaller ones available and when you install these you will get a vibration while driving it after a few weeks. so there are not thight anymore


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## remrem (Jan 20, 2008)

*Upper Control Arms*

As you can see from earlier posts, I replaced the driver's side drop link about a year ago when I heard clunking going over speed bumps. I've begun to hear the same sound from the passenger side, and so assumed my Phaeton tech was going to tell me it is now time to replace the passenger side drop link.

However, he showed me that my upper control arm bushings are torn on both passenger and drivers side, and that all 4 arms should be replaced. He also said that in order to do the job he has to drop the front air struts to get access.

I trust my Phaeton tech. He has always done right by me and he really knows the Phaeton. 

My question is, when I look at the illustration of the front upper control arm on 1stVWparts.com, it shows some parts labeled as "Bushing Back". These appear, to my untrained eye, to be bushing inserts that would replace the exact pieces that are torn. If that's the case, then couldn't they be replaced without having to replace the entire metal arms which still look perfect? The "Bushing Backs" are priced around $20 each, whereas the metal arms themselves are about $180 each.


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## jkuisma (Nov 23, 2009)

Yes, all the bushings can be replaced separately and your prices are about right. You will still need to disassemble the arms from the car entirely to replace the bushings. It requires quite a bit of wrenching, including the removal of air spring etc. The reason for him suggesting complete renewal of the control arms is most likely this: there are ball joints at the outer ends of the control arms. These do wear out eventually. They cannot be replaced so you need to replace the whole control arm. Taking into account the work involved in replacing the bushings and the needed alignment job after that, I personally would consider replacing the whole control arms while you are at it. Especially if there is any play in the ball joints and/or the car is @80-100k miles or more. Paying him to do the same job again in a year or two does not make sense as the labour costs will be (at least close to) what the whole new arms will cost.

Jouko


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## remrem (Jan 20, 2008)

Thank you Jouko!

That explanation really makes sense. I now understand why my tech didn't suggest simply replacing only the bushings. Much appreciated.

Best regards,
Ron M.


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## EnglishPhaeton (Dec 6, 2010)

*Suspension bushes?*

Hi all, 

Well I can't put things off for much longer! I am getting distinct noise from the front suspension now on our poorly maintained roads. Question is, where do I start? 
It sort of makes sense to me that If I am going to replace one bush, then I may as well change them all. So, what and where do I look, can I do it myself or do I take the car to my local VW agent (not very good with Phaetons), my local VW specialist (great with the engines etc, but I get the impression he doesn't enjoy suspension jobs of any type but could be coerced)? 
Car is a 2006 V10. 

Thanks 
Stu


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## Irish Phaeton (Sep 6, 2010)

*Suspension*

I had some front suspension clunks (60K miles, 2007 3.0tdi) and my local type fitter suggested there was a several bushings needed replacing. Went to my reliable VW dealer in Belfast and they felt only "droplinks" needed attention. Done in a few hours and about £250. Solved the problem fully. They said it was common enough as the miles got higher, and they had not generally seen other components needing replacment. 
From the post below, you can replace yourself if you feel like it! Parts about £80. 
Regards 
Hugh 
Dublin 


http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...a-Sway)-Bar-Droplinks-TOC&highlight=droplinks


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## EnglishPhaeton (Dec 6, 2010)

Irish Phaeton said:


> I had some front suspension clunks (60K miles, 2007 3.0tdi) and my local type fitter suggested there was a several bushings needed replacing. Went to my reliable VW dealer in Belfast and they felt only "droplinks" needed attention. Done in a few hours and about £250. Solved the problem fully. They said it was common enough as the miles got higher, and they had not generally seen other components needing replacment.
> From the post below, you can replace yourself if you feel like it! Parts about £80.
> Regards
> Hugh
> ...


 Hi Hugh, 

many thanks for that, I will investigate asap! 

Stu


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Archival Note:* I have merged the (newer) discussion that Stu started - previously entitled 'Suspension Bushes' - with this thread, which is the one that Hugh cited two posts up. Hence, if you click the URL that Hugh provided, it will take you back to page 1 of this discussion.

Michael


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## robbie-rocket-pants (Mar 25, 2012)

I have been in touch with Powerflex. They have been very helpful and made up a set of polyurethane bushes for the anti-roll bar drop-link. They are based on the bushes they sell for the Audi A4 etc. It is a modified version of this:

http://www.powerflex.co.uk/product-details/Front+Anti+Roll+Bar+Link+Bush/2006.html

The main modification is that the stainless steel sleeves are made to take the 12mm bolt fitted to the Phaeton (as opposed to the 10mm bolts on most other Audi & VW cars).










As the original poster said, the job of removing the drop-links is quite easy. I did it by driving the car onto some small ramps:










Once the drop-links are off it is very easy to drive out the old aluminium sleeves and rubbers. They are very light-weight and flimsy compared the the new powerflex bushes. 










The only tricky bit was pushing the new bushes in. You need a vice to hold the drop-link and some strong thumbs. I found a bit of grease & warming the bush in hot water helped to soften them to get them through the hole.










As you can see from the photo, two of the bushes came with a flange on one end. Not sure why they did this but I fitted them as shown. It may be best if all four had flanges but thinner so that they look more like the ones in the OEM part.










Powerflex sold them to me for about £55, which included a 30% discount; presumably this was in appreciation of my help to them with their R&D for this part. This is a little cheaper than buying 2 new VW drop-links, but it should also last longer, give better handling and is less wasteful !

The reason I wanted to change these bushes was that the steering seemed a bit “woolly” and would pull according to the camber & dips in the road. I have been for a short test drive and there seems to be a noticeable improvement.


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## phaetonenvy (Jun 2, 2006)

Robbie,

thanks for the post.
That is exciting news.
Did you speak with powerflex about the rest of the phaeton bushings?
I reached out to powerflexusa....and they did not have any information for me.
I would really like to do the swap and post a tutorial on the forum.
If possible, please email me with your contact at powerflex...perhaps I can arrange a group buy for phaeton owners looking to upgrade.. joe at engineguy dot com.


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## robbie-rocket-pants (Mar 25, 2012)

Hello Joe,

when I contacted Powerflex it was the MD David Power who I dealt with (!). He was very helpful.

His email is [email protected]

I didn't ask about any other bushes (yet !)

All the best Rob


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## phaetonenvy (Jun 2, 2006)

Rob,

I contacted David. He and James Bourn helped me to get them on the Powerflex USA site.

http://powerflexusa.com/phaeton2002-2009.aspx

I just ordered a set. My hope is that it will stiffen up the chassis for those canyon roads.

Thanks for all of your help!!!

Joe


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## Tiger0002 (Apr 23, 2013)

That's pretty pricy for those bushings. I recently changed mine with VW links...They gave me discount on VW links for it was like $160 for the pair.

Sway bar links will help with the stability of the car around corners but it does nothing to stiffen up the chassis. To stiffen up the chassis, you have to make sure the ball joints are not worn... so by the time you swapped out the control arms... you also changed the control arm bushings which does stiffen up the chassis. It's all one piece.

That is the best thing you can do for any cars... to change out all the related suspension bushings including subframe bushings. It's a bear to do on most cars because you have to deal with the coil springs (unless it is struts)... but it all involves a lot of work.


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## Cantrellc123 (Aug 5, 2012)

tgarbrecht said:


> Slim Jim,<p>I have to disagree. I tried getting these links from two different "OEM" manufacturers of the links (One was Moog, the others name escapes me, but was via Amazon.com)<p>Either way, the holes in these replacement links <B>do not </B>fit the screws that are in the car. At the same time, the screws that come w/ the replacements are too small, and don't fit the car.<p>I've had to buy directly from VW<p>-Tyson<p>


I bought a $45.00 pair off eBay and they also had holes that were to small but that's an easy fix with a 1/2" drill bit. It's made of aluminum and very easy to dill out to the needed size. Even with drilling out the holes it was less than a 30 min job to replace both drop links.

Cantrell


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

I had the techs at my VW dealer replace the droplinks on my W12 Phaeton today. The car had been making horrible banging noises every time I ran over a bump in the road, and upon investigation of the front end suspension components, everything was found to be in good condition except one rubber bushing on the left droplink. I asked to have both droplinks replaced, and also all of the fasteners used to hold the droplinks in place, this because they are Torque-To-Stretch (TTS) fasteners... the instructions for installation state that these fasteners should be torqued to a given value, then turned another 90°. Any fastener that has similar installation instructions (turn another 90°) is a TTS fastener.

What really surprised me was that both bushings on the right side droplink were in excellent condition, and the upper bushing on the left droplink was in very good condition. But, the lower bushing on the left droplink was grossly deteriorated, as can be seen in the photos below. I had only driven the car about 400 km (250 miles) since the banging noise when going over bumps became apparent, but the metal dowel that goes inside the lower bushing of the left droplink had a huge flat spot on it from metal-to-metal contact with the droplink casting.

My Phaeton has 100,000 km (63,000 miles) on it. I wonder how much of the deterioration in this one rubber bushing of the droplink was a result of wear, and how much was a result of rubber perishing? I'm starting to get quite concerned about various rubber bits on the now 11 year old car beginning to perish.

Michael

*Left Droplink (right one was in excellent condition)
*



_Note the flat spot on the inner metal dowel - it was rubbing directly against the droplink casting, the rubber bushing was totally worn through._


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## Cantrellc123 (Aug 5, 2012)

Michael,

I think it would be a good idea to start a maintenance thread listing various components of our cars that will possibly need replacement due to age. 
It could have metal items as well as rubber and vinyl, basically anything that needs to be checked to insure happy motoring.

Cantrell


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Not sure how much difference it'll make in the long run, but I've been greasing the rubber on my droplinks and also the big, vulcanized inner bushing on the sway bar.


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## SolusNonSum (Feb 25, 2014)

PanEuropean said:


> ... the instructions for installation state that these fasteners should be torqued to a given value, then turned another 90°. Any fastener that has similar installation instructions (turn another 90°) is a TTS fastener.


Micheal,

This is very true. I replaced the droplinks and the fasteners on my Phaeton about a month ago. I torqued the fasteners to the given value but did not turn another quarter of a full turn (90°). A week into riding my Phaeton, I would hear a sound similar to a "thud" on the bottom front left side whenever I took a right turn. I could feel my brake pedal kick up very slightly under my foot (that's what it felt like to me) whenever this happened. Going under my Phaeton to inspect what might have happened, the top fastener on the left droplink had come loose and had a space/gap between the fastener bolt and the droplink. Retightening that fastener and the other fasteners as recommended eliminated the "thud" and restored my peace of mind once again. 

Since then, I have inspected the fasteners every weekend and they seem to be in place now.





invisiblewave said:


> ... but I've been greasing the rubber on my droplinks and also the big, vulcanized inner bushing on the sway bar.


Martin,

What type and brand of lubricant or grease do you use?


- Solus -


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

SolusNonSum said:


> Martin,
> 
> What type and brand of lubricant or grease do you use?
> 
> ...


The cheap type from O'Reilly's Autoparts!


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

invisiblewave said:


> The cheap type from O'Reilly's Autoparts!


Hi Martin:

Is that lubricant one that is known to be suitable for rubber parts? I ask because some lubricants (some greases, oils, etc.) cause deterioration of rubber, whereas some others are specifically approved for use on rubber components.

I like the idea of lubricating the rubber parts, I think it makes sense... I'm just concerned that the wrong lubricant might drastically shorten the life of the rubber.

Michael


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

I've no idea. I thought I'd try it on the droplinks and see what happened, then maybe do the same to the rest of the suspension bushings. Given the rate at which all those rubber bearing deteriorate anyway, I doubt that a general grease is going to make it any worse. I also use it on the door hinges that the dealer never bothers to check when they service it.


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## remrem (Jan 20, 2008)

PanEuropean said:


> ...I'm starting to get quite concerned about various rubber bits on the now 11 year old car beginning to perish...
> 
> Michael


Me too!




Cantrellc123 said:


> Michael,
> 
> I think it would be a good idea to start a maintenance thread listing various components of our cars that will possibly need replacement due to age.
> It could have metal items as well as rubber and vinyl, basically anything that needs to be checked to insure happy motoring.
> ...


Great idea!


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Here are the instructions from the repair manual for replacement of droplinks on MY 2003 to 2007 Phaetons.

Note that the vehicle must be "weight on wheels" when the bolts that attach the new droplinks are tightened.

Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Archival Note:*

A discussion with information about aftermarket droplink bushings made by Powerflex (described in Rob's post #46, above) - Powerflex -- Phaeton ('02-'09) Bushings.

Michael


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## Zackb911 (Jul 2, 2013)

Does anyone happen to have the part numbers and quantities for the bolts and nuts as well?


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## ravenflies (Oct 31, 2013)

N 102 096 05; M12*1,5*65; Bolt, coupling rod to stabilizer. One on each side.
N 909 860 02; M12*1,5*70; Bolt, coupling rod to front wishbone link. One on each side.
N 104 029 04; M12*1,5; Nut, coupling rod to front wishbone link. One on each side.

Lennart


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## Bindaham (Apr 4, 2014)

tgarbrecht said:


> I tried getting these links from two different "OEM" manufacturers of the links (One was Moog, the others name escapes me, but was via Amazon.com)
> Either way, the holes in these replacement links *do not *fit the screws that are in the car. At the same time, the screws that come w/ the replacements are too small, and don't fit the car.
> I've had to buy directly from VW.


Unfortunately that happened to me yesterday! Had to get two drop links from the local Audi dealer for $124 (for both).


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

I can confirm that the Meyle droplinks from FCP Euro are the correct size. I haven't fitted them yet, but I bought the bolts from the dealer earlier. The Meyle links come with one lock nut each. I bought the threaded bolts that go into the sway bar and will re-use the other bolt.


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## hanzy88 (Jan 2, 2018)

I replaced everything, including these droplinks, but now I found out that the noise is coming from completely worn bushings on the anti roll bar itself, the those holding that bar in place against the engine mount… Can't find a replacement bushings anywhere.
Help please


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## Melvivio (Feb 12, 2017)

Hanzy88, I've been on a similar journey and forked out (with some discount) €290,- for a new anti-roll bar, genuine from Volkswagen. This because the rubbers are glued on.
So even if you find replacements rubbers (some suppliers out there) I doubt it will have the result you desire. You'll most likely won't get the bar so squeaky clean that it will operate without flaw or noise. 
Don't forget new bolts as they are onetime use only.
Just buy new is my advise.


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## hanzy88 (Jan 2, 2018)

@Melvivio,
I checked, the new would cost me way over 300€, closer to 450€ even with discounts. Unfortunately!
I did find an AliExpress seller that's actually selling the rubber bushings by themselves for a little under 100€. I'm waiting for those to arrive and will report the results after fitting them. My tempo fix right now are Land Rover Discovery II bushings, the Disco II also has the 35mm Anti-Roll bar, and was the only vehicle with such dimension anti-roll bar that I could find and order the bushings for it, from Febi. They are OK, no squeaking but, they don't fit perfectly, since the slots for bushings are a bit different.

One good news tho, I sourced the really annoying and loud clacking noise when driving over bumps not to the worn out bushings, but actually the improperly installed C-links, on the right side. Was not obvious at first sight, because whenever the car was jacked up, the bushings of the C-link hid the extensive clearance between the screw and the lower front control arm. Only after lifting the car on the lift with the weight on the wheels the problem became visible, upon closer investigation I found out that the screw was completely incorrect, 8mm instead of 10mm and it got loose. After replacing the screw with the correct size, the clacking and banging when driving over the uneven roads disappeared. Car rides as good as it can be expected for a 370k km car. I'm happy, the problem is solved and I will report when I replace the Disco II bushings with the Chinese ones.


Thanks for help!


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## robbie-rocket-pants (Mar 25, 2012)

When I replaced the drop links on my 2009 GP2 car, I noticed the metal inserts in the bush (where the bolt goes through) were made of aluminium. When I changed the drop links on my 2011 GP3 car VW had upgraded this insert to steel. 

It may be worth buying the OEM part for longevity as pattern parts may still have an aluminium insert. (I actually swapped my bushes for Powerflex poly bushes which also have a steel insert)


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

Wrong thread, sorry


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