# My First Passat.......Newb Questions



## VDubbinJR (Aug 24, 2007)

(Posted this is the 4motion section but no response, so thought I'd try here)

About three weeks ago I bought a 2001.5 Passat GLX Wagon 4Motion (79k on the clock). I have been searching through forums after forums looking for information on what maintenance needs to be performed regularly, what kind of awd system I have, and things to look out for. However, there doesnt seem to be too much out there in way of 4Motion specifically (if I am missing it somewhere, please feel free to direct me!). I know that the Passats have the Torsen center like the Quattro. Here are the most important questions I have if anybody can throw some info my way:

1. When coasting along at say 40mph, if you let off the accelerator and depress again, I hear a thunk, the same noise can also be heard when it is down-shifting to the last gear when coming to a stop. I took it to VW and they said that there is nothing apparent that is wrong with the vehicle except for a minimal amount of axle play. Is this type of noise/play typical in the 4Motions with Torsen centers? If not, any suggestions? The best way to describe the thunk would be the equivalent to hearing a loose diff (even though vw says mine is fine).

2. What type of precaution and or maintenance should be done at this point or will need in the future? 

3. Are there typical failure/weak points that I should be worried about?

I have always been a Jetta owner before this and I just absolutely fell in love with this car. I am definitely a DIY guy but I want to educate myself before diving into any projects on it. Feel free to throw any other info/links my way about these cars as well. I will already be undertaking the timing belt here soon and already did the pcv system on it.

Thanks


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

1. Sure sounds like the diff mounts to me. It's at the age where they could wear out. Did they check all three diffs, and the motor mounts? I'd think about taking it elsewhere for a second opinion. (EDIT: just figured out you have a slushbox -- could be the fluid needs changing. There was also a recall on the trans-controllers, but I don't know what years or what the symptoms were.)

2. I think you've pretty much got it covered with the timing belt & PCV for now. Clean the airbox, throttle body, and put in new filters.

3. The usual stuff for any car that age: suspension & driveline components, motor/diff mounts, ignition coils/plugs/wires, battery, brake pads/rotors, vacuum hoses, sensors (esp. coolant temp.), exhaust, thermostat.... The exhaust bits seem to last longer than most other cars I've owned, but that's probably because they're $tainle$$ $teel. Rear wheel bearings seem to wear out especially fast on these cars (wabawabawaba....), but that's an easy enough DIY. As a previous VW owner, I'm sure you're used to the weird electrical problems (which I usually solve by removing whatever fuse relays power to the circuit :laugh. The engine & transmission though (esp. the man-tran), are pretty much bulletproof, except quite a few people have had problems with the cam chain tensioner(s), which for some reason are super f***ing expensive on the V6, and apparently also a real PITA to replace.

About the suspension: these cars are extremely annoying to drive once one of the 6 million front control arms starts to go. The handling is awful, and the clackety-clack squeak-squeak will drive you bonkers. Usually when one goes, the rest aren't very far behind, so my advice is to save up for a kit (~$500, which, IIRC, includes tie-rod ends, sway-bar links & CV joints) and do the whole thing in one shot. It's not a particularly difficult DIY, but it can be time-consuming -- some of those bolts are a real beyotch. I think you need a 32mm (27mm?) socket for the hubs, a breaker bar and a whole lotta PB Blaster, pizza, and beer. Personally, I'd wait until I saved up for a coil-over kit (~800-1200) too and kill two birds with one stone. It's easier to get at the control arms with the shock-tower off anyway.

I can't think of anything else off the top of my head...


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## tryin2vw (Dec 30, 2006)

Check the inner CV joints for the clunk. With no tension on the wheel, grab the shaft near the inner CV joint and try to move it radially, there should be no play.

The next major repair will be the timing belt. The V6 has 2 tools needed to complete the job with confidence (cam bar/crank pin). They can be purchased for about $100 or rented for $35 depending on where you buy the timing belt kit. Replace everything in there when doing this job as it is not the timing belt that will fail, it is the rollers, tensioner, water pump that will cause the failure. It should be done in the next 5-10K miles for peace of mind.

Control arms as  says are not hard but take time, do them two at a time, Upper Right/Lower Right/Upper Left/Lower Left as it makes it easier than doing all 4 on a side at one time. But do them all at one time and the handling will improve dramatically if they are bad. Also do the outer tie rod ends and sway bar links at the same time.


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## VDubbinJR (Aug 24, 2007)

Thanks for the info, at least I know where to start and look for stuff. I'll def have to think about replacing the control arms. I hear a clanking noise at times when going over bumps that I thought may have been something in the brakes, but maybe not. The car rides a little floaty so I had planned on replacing suspension anyhow, looks like I'll start saving my beans asap, lol.

VW didn't state specifically what they looked at but they said they checked it all out. I'll definitely be getting a second opinion somewhere else. I have a small warranty on the car for the power-train, so if it does end up being something bigger than a cv joint, I'll definitely want to know soon so its covered. 

, its interesting that you mentioned about the rear wheel bearings in these. I just had an alignment and balance done because I had a shake on the highway. The shake is nearly gone but I have a low rumbley vibraty noise above 40mph and on that disappears around 80ish. I had an old 87 ford ltd wagon that made a similar noise but that ended up being ujoints. 

I just wasn't sure if I was making something out of nothing being that I really never spent any time in a 4motion vehicle before. Thanks for the info, I'll be checking out the inner cv joints tomorrow!


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## O_o (Nov 12, 2009)

VDubbinJR said:


> The shake is nearly gone but I have a low rumbley vibraty noise above 40mph and on that disappears around 80ish.


Could be a wheel bearing. It's easy enough to check: one almost sure indication would be if it gets louder when you accelerate/brake or turn. If it's louder when you turn left (right), it's probably the right (left), and if it's louder when you accelerate (brake), it's probably in the rear (front). Or, if you jack it up and spin the wheels by hand you should be able to hear/feel a bad bearing. And since you're checking the CV joints anyway...


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

Wheel bearings on driven wheels ez to check out..just put car up on jackstands (4 if 4 motion..duh) and start car, put in gear so wheels spin at idle..using a length of hose or the cardboard tube from a roll of gift rap...(for safety to keep you away from spinning wheel)..listen at hub of each wheel..you'll hear the extra noise of a bad bearing right away!:thumbup:


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## Colin Rumary (Aug 24, 2010)

*Englishman*

My Passat has 430,000 kms on it, and I had two things happen. I had to replace the main drive shaft which I secured near new second-hand. But I have the thunking noise also, and it has now gotten progressively worse. I thought it may be tranny, but no one wants to play with my tranny with this many kms on it. I wonder if it is diffs like the other guys said.
Keep your oil changed, and the air filter needs vaccuuming out at the mesh in the box, and the filter itself needs changing regularly - it affects mileage in a huge way.


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## Colin Rumary (Aug 24, 2010)

*Englishman*

And by-the-way - do make sure you use the right fluids in this car, especially antifreeze. I have heard lots of people who have mixed antifreeze types, and a gel plugs up the heater core. I currently have very little heat - even after a flush. One guy wrote he blew it all out using compressed air - but I'd be careful doing that. Also Dot 4 brake fluid, and best stick to recommended other fluids as well.
Apart from rotors, brakes, tires and a couple of cv joints, I have had 5 years of pleasant driving. Now my gas filter may be the cause of stalling - possibly the pump. Anyone have advice on a pump change?:screwy:


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## VDubbinJR (Aug 24, 2007)

Yeah I discovered the antifreeze f*** up already, lol although it wasn't my doing. I noticed when I got it that it looked a little discolored but didn't think much of it since the temp gauge was always consistent. however, with the season starting to change a bit I tried using the heat one night to discover that there was none. Awesome. 

I haven't had much time to play with it until now, but I flushed out all the old antifreeze. Left the water in it with some waterwetter and will be flushing again here in the next week(which is why i didnt put new in) I have heat but only under acceleration now, so I assume I have some air in the system yet. 

Yeah the clunking noise im getting used to but I probably will start replacing fluids in all the components here before winter. Maybe one of the diffs is low? 

I still have my rumbly noise, but the more I drive the more it seems to be defined between 40-50mph and 70-80mph. Other than that I really dont hear it. 

I appreciate all the feedback from all. This car is definitely a different beast than what I'n used to but I love the car, so whatever it takes


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