# Project VRX-7; A VRT FC3S



## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

*The Ratchet RX-7*

I got the car when I was 16, then the clutch went out and I had big plans for it. It sat for 5 years, then I got started on it again. This was about a week after it started for the first time. 










First autox after getting it running. I stayed up all night fixing all the small things to get it ready. On street tires too. Car was NA with a half bridgeport.


















Next autox I had the wing on, Rcomps mounted, and raised the front up 20mm to avoid pinching the tire on the chassis.



















Then I finally felt like throwing in the 160lb secondaries and replacing the header with something a bit more functional- Greddy 20G turbo kit.


















Somewhere along the way I got some S5 tails and cut the donkey dong off the exhaust.










Then I needed a bit more traction, so I got some mickey's on yet another set of mustang wheels.










I had some fun at our yearly Ice Cream Cruise
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6PRu_eEQIg 

And a bit of street action in “Mexico”
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPmpr3VIFZo 

Datalogging the engine blowing on the dyno. :thumbsdown:










Drove the car home after blowing, then over to my buddy's garage where it currently sits. My dumbass forgot the hood pins, not a big deal on my old steel hood, the aluminum turbo hood it's a big problem. Luckily all damage was to the hood, and the passenger side mirror.


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

Now you're up to speed, here's the new stuff:

So I decided to put a VR6 into the car, don't ask why (I don't know either). Plans for the car are to drag, drift, and do trackdays at MidAmerica Motorplex. And of course bruise a few ego's in the process, I just hope my own isn't a victim too. 

So details on the motor:
Junkyard block with excessive cylinder taper (according to machine shop, I never checked myself)
ARP headstuds, main studs, rod bolts
C2 8.5:1 head spacer
Stock head/ cams currently
PT6266 w/ .84 divided hotside
Twin Tial wastegates
Custom stainless divided turbo manifold
Custom intake manifold
034 fuel rail
034 filter setup
Modified oil pan
Stock FC3S oil cooler
Walbro “485” fuel pump
Treadstone intercooler


Transmission and Drivetrain:
S4T2 trans and diff
ACT steel flywheel
ACT pressure plate
Stock FC clutch disc
Custom crank adapter and bellhousing adapter

Engine management:
Megasquirt 2 v3.0 board
Mapdaddy 4bar w/ constant baro correction
Megasquirt boost control
Google Nexus 7 tablet running via bluetooth and mounted in dash
DIYAutotune IGN-6 ignition coil
72lb Bosch EV14 injectors


Other previously installed mods on the chassis:
KTS coilovers
Energy Suspension bushings
Delrin differential mounts
Camber link
Manual brake conversion
SS brake/clutch hose
Speedway brake bias adjuster
Momo wheel/ NRG quick release
Sparco Torino 2 seat
Complete HVAC removal
Carbon fiber wing


Wheels:
Pink '99 Mustang GT wheels- Advan A048 rubber (getting pretty old)
Silver '99 Mustang GT wheels- street tires
V6 stang wheels- drag radials on rear, street tires front
Stock FC wheels- tiny street tires

Now more pretty pictures.

I gave the block a paint job. You've gotta have the stripper dust.



I then started mocking up an adapter plate and figuring out thickness I'd need.








I then made the expensive purchase:




I clamped the bellhousings in our Hardinge GX1000 OSP at work to get measurements




I then, for some inexplicable reason hand cut the hole with power tools. Here's 4 hours of work.




It bolts up! (I later trimmed a ton off the outside)




I then drew up the crank adapter




And recruited the Applications Engineer to give me a hand with programming




Starting to take shape




A little more work




And it all bolts together!




I still needed a pilot bearing, lo and behold a 1.8t bearing fits perfectly




A small victory and a step in the right direction




Slapped the Walbro in. I hope this is enough fuel




Got the car back at home. She's looking pretty pathetic these days




Started putting some paint in the bay




Mocking it up




Version 1.0 beta (I later significantly shortened the rear runner)




I started making the intake manifold




I used a router with a roundover bit to shape the runner entrances




Then filled and smoothed them with weld, which seals the manifold internally, external welding was all just extra




Slightly tapered plenum




I got some wiring junk in




I set the engine in, and found out she's a big betch. I'll leave it at this height currently to simplify the install. Later I hope to lower it 3 inches or so.




Threw together some mount brackets, these are NOT finished products, they need a lot of work to be strong enough.






As it currently sits


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## MikkiJayne (Jan 1, 2007)

*FV-QR*

First thing that popped in to my head was "how the hell are you going to fit a VR6 under the hood of an RX7", especially when I saw the steering rack where the oil pump should be :sly: Looks like its going to be a little tight! Are you going to dry-sump it?

Interesting project :thumbup:


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

MikkiJayne said:


> First thing that popped in to my head was "how the hell are you going to fit a VR6 under the hood of an RX7", especially when I saw the steering rack where the oil pump should be :sly: Looks like its going to be a little tight! *Are you going to dry-sump it?*
> 
> Interesting project :thumbup:


I wish! This is definitely a budget build, and the budget was already blown a few months ago. :banghead:

I'll snap a pic from underneath to show oil pump clearance. That's part of the reason it sits up so high, the other reason is to keep the stock transmission mounts, at least until I prove the rest of the combination out. :thumbup:


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

More progress:

Worked on modifying the oil pan. Basically just cut the front out to clear the rack. I estimate it lost about a quart from doing this, which shouldn't be a big deal since factory took 6.

Just checking the clearances. I forgot to get a pic of the oil feed tube, as that's actually what inhibits lowering the engine down more.




Cut the pan




Grind it a bit more straight




I finally got to use my plasma cutter. I should probably start using it more often. :rofl: Makes cake work of the 16 ga sheet.




Tacked it on, then ground to fit




Cut the second piece and ground to fit




And fully welded and ready for paint. I really should have just used my wirefeed, but the TIG is a ton easier to access. I'm terrible at tigging while standing up though.


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## the mad conductor (Nov 12, 2009)

yes! i got tired of seeing ls1s swapped in these. (not really) lol

hope everything works out.. looks fun


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## robsgotit (Jan 25, 2004)

Fek yeah! This is gonna be good


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

Looks pretty cool.. but you should have done the intake and exhaust after mounting the engine.

you could do this... 










and the same for the intake... after you mount the alternator in place.. or put the alternator where the AC used to be.. 

You got TONS of room on that bay. :thumbup:
opcorn:


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

The turbo barely fits between the engine and strut tower, I'd have less than an inch of wiggle room, which I need plenty with the rubber mounts. I don't mind having a turbo stick out. The intake is definitely getting redone over the winter. I have a track event August 31 I need the car done by, so I was trying to get everything done as much as possible as soon as possible. :thumbup:


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

You wanna have this done so quick? Damn! 
You may also be able to use a cheap ebay manifold for clearance? http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-VR6-12V-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item20c2bd485f&vxp=mtr

Post an eagle eye view pic to see how much room you are working with :thumbup:

Dont worry about tubular manifolds and stuff like that. Breaking the tires loose will be the last of your worries on a vrt


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

xtremevdub said:


> You wanna have this done so quick? Damn!
> You may also be able to use a cheap ebay manifold for clearance? http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-VR6-12V-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item20c2bd485f&vxp=mtr
> 
> Post an eagle eye view pic to see how much room you are working with :thumbup:
> ...


 I'm Houston until Friday night, and the motor is out at the moment anyways or else I'd get a pic now.


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

:thumbup:


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

I had a few people swing over through ought the day, which means the day was extremely unproductive. :beer: 

Got the motor dropped back in by myself, then realized my oil pan has to come back off because I forgot the turbo oil drain fitting. :banghead::banghead: 

Got my intercooler tubing sorted, broke out the plasma. :laugh: I found my wire crimpers make decent beads. This pic was the first attempt, subsequent attempts looked much better and didn't crack the tube. 

 

Then I started on my crack pipe and thermostat setup. 

 

 





Then a VW guy came over and tried to help. He knew I was putting a VR6 in it, so he figured the Mickeys should go on the front. 

 



Okay, the real reason for that was to check exhaust and intercooler tubing fitment with the largest diameter tires I have to make sure everything clears.


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

Trackday is quickly approaching and I'm starting to worry whether or not I'll make it.  If I do not get the car running by Saturday the 24th, The RX7 is a nogo for the track and I'll have to take the Forester.  So, I decided to make tuning easier, I will run without a turbo for the event. It'll be strange driving the car with a torquey 160ish HP, but worth it for reliability sake.

After the last update, I realized I hadn't installed the oil drain bung for the turbo. That meant the motor had to come back out. Took 12 minutes by myself to pull it, and I wasn't exactly straining myself. So I yanked the pan, welded the bung, reinstalled the pan and looked at a couple other items.

First was my slave cylinder hose. With the engine in the car, it looked like I'd have to do something strange. Thankfully that was not the case, and the hose fits beautifully next to my coolant adapter. Speaking of the coolant adapter, I final mounted that after making sure the surface was smooth and applying a coat of silicone.

After the engine was back in place, I mounted the radiator. The mounts aren't the most elegant, but they should work. I slid rubber washers between the mounts and rad to allow some movement should it be needed.

I also finished up the modified crack pipe.



I then worked on the wiring a bit, as it was a huge mess from some "accidents" while pruning the harness before. :banghead:



After I got that all sorted, I reinstalled and this is how the bay currently sits.




Then there's the thermostat housing. Sometimes it's a very good thing to have friends stop by. I was trying to think of ways to get a small amount of coolant to flow next to the thermostat to allow heated coolant to get to the stat. 



My idea involved 1/4" nipples being welded on and extra hoses. One of my friends looked at me dumbfounded when I explained such and said "just drill a hole or two in the thermostat"

:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:

So I did. :laugh:




Tonight I just worked on some wiring and prepped the interior to get the dash back in. Then towards the end of the night I got bored and started working on my tablet mount and gauge mount. It's a billion times cleaner than the zipties I was using previously. :thumbup:


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## MikkiJayne (Jan 1, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Making progress then  Good stuff :thumbup:


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

keep it up brother !!:thumbup::thumbup: badass:beer:


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10200632981209938&notif_t=like


:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

Been busy and I forgot to cross post some updates, so here's a copy from the local board...




PapioGXL said:


> I've found a few minor issues so far.
> 
> 1. ghetto rigged throttle cable clamp slipped and I can't get above about 75% throttle. Fixed this with a proper wire clamp.
> 
> ...


In addition to those, my valve cover breather was putting a nice cloud out, I believe because of excess oil. I installed a temporary catch can to avoid a messy windshield. Something I forgot to mention is the fact my IAT sensor bung was very poorly placed (Oops) and will allow either the installation of the sensor, or the belt tensioner. I chose the tensioner, so for the meantime the IAT is ziptied to the harness, close enough. :lol:

I also experienced an issue with overheating on even short trips. I had just a generic garbage 12" fan that put out nothing for CFM that was temporarily installed and wired. I took that off and installed my ~16" fan I had on the car last year. This required a bit of creativity for mounting, as the radiator is only 12" tall. but some zipties and ABS plastic, and it is shrouded to the core. I also used some ABS to make a duct to the rad from the top of the bumper inlet. I removed the intercooler as well as installing the stock belly pan. I hope I have no more cooling issues now. :Thumb:

I've also had a few minor leaks. The two oil galley plugs at the front of the block started leaking. I replaced them with plugs from oreillys, one is now sealed, the other leaked still. So I ran to Harbor Freight, picked up a 3/8" NPT tap and solved that problem.

Next leak was the coolant freeze plug at the front of the head. Nobody in town had the proper plug, so in went an expandable rubber job. But it works, so screw it.

Albers, it turns out I had the 3 and 5 plug wires backwards. :facepalm: It runs, starts, and drives significantly better now. :Thumb:

As far as the tune is concerned, I was sitting at low 11's at WOT, so I need to lean it out a bit up there, and it should pick up significant power. I plan on giving it a few more degrees of timing as well to liven it up a bit.


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

In case you were wondering, a VR6 will last exactly 22.4 miles in an RX-7. :thumbdown:


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

PapioGXL said:


> So details on the motor:
> *Junkyard block with excessive cylinder taper (according to machine shop, I never checked myself)*
> ARP headstuds, main studs, rod bolts
> C2 8.5:1 head spacer
> ...


Thats partially your fault...  dont blame the engine. 
also maybe the new angle of the engine didnt allow for the oil pickup to swallow any oil???


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

I know. Probably just going to get a stock running motor and drop it in while I actually build one. 

Oil starvation is a possibility, but the dipstick level is well above the pickup so I doubt it. My theory at the moment is that the flooding when I first tried getting it to start washed the walls. That, along with the taper and new, sharp rings scraped away the shavings I found. Won't know till I pop the head off. 

To give you a timeline, we towed it home at midnight, and the engine was out by 2 working by myself. :laugh:


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

Yanked the pistons out tonight. I didn't go in any order, but what was easy to access. #1 ended up being the last. The first 5 looked gravy. Bearings had no wear to speak of, bores looked good. Then came #1...

The crank was hard to turn, even with just the one piston. Then I put the ratchet on the 1st rod bolt. *ting*

Uhhhhh, what? I reached in and tapped the rod end again. *ting*

There was a sold 1/8" of free play in the rod end. :facepalm: The bearing disintegrated and was nowhere to be found.

On rod bolt was discolored, as well as one side of the rod.






From the look of the oil filter housing, no debris made it past the filter. I'm still going to flush the oil cooler to be sure. I'm still not positive would take out only the #1 rod bearing, but I also need to pull the mains out to see how they look.


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## groundupjetta (Feb 1, 2010)

Nice build man, you should get a r32 oil pump as they have the pick up higher allowing for more clearance between the pump and oil pan


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## izcorrado18 (Aug 21, 2005)

WOW!!! Subscribed!!


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

groundupjetta said:


> Nice build man, you should get a r32 oil pump as they have the pick up higher allowing for more clearance between the pump and oil pan


That would be a bit counter productive for me. You want the pickup as deep into the pan as possible to prevent pickup starvation (while still leaving ample room for oil to flow)

The more I think about it the more I the more I think the location of the pickup in the sump may be the issue. Pickup is towards the front of the sump, on accel oil flows to rear and starves the pickup. I'm definitely going to get an oil pressure gauge before driving it again, and a redesign will happen too. An accusump is also a possibility.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

i highly support this build!! ffuukk yesss:beer::beer::beer:

lookin g great so far. i need to really sit down on my laptop and read this instead of on my phone. keep up the good work man!!:beer::beer::thumbup::thumbup:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

btw...that design for the pelnum of your intake manifold will probably pop( i had mine similar to that years ago as did several fo friends in our group and they don't last) the front being a single flat section is weak.


why not do a dry sump setup and cure all of your issues at once? clearance...oil pressure and feed...etc.


really hope this comes together.:beer:


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

Vegeta Gti said:


> btw...that design for the pelnum of your intake manifold will probably pop( i had mine similar to that years ago as did several fo friends in our group and they don't last) the front being a single flat section is weak.
> Good to know. Boost level will be modest to start, but there will be literally TONS of pressure pushing on the sides, so I can definitely understand.
> 
> why not do a dry sump setup and cure all of your issues at once? clearance...oil pressure and feed...etc.
> ...


:thumbup:


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

Good news/ Bad news in this post.


Good news: figured out what the cause of just ONE rod bearing failing was. :beer:


Bad news: My rushed ignorance caused it. :what::facepalm:

For reference,


PapioGXL said:


> I've also had a few minor leaks. The two oil galley plugs at the front of the block started leaking. I replaced them with plugs from oreillys, one is now sealed, the other leaked still. So I ran to Harbor Freight, picked up a 3/8" NPT tap and solved that problem.


 By solving this problem, I directly caused the engine to fail.

It's a bit blurry, but this is looking up the oil feed from the #1 main bearing. The plug I screwed into the block is the silver in the bore. it is blocking more than 80% of the oil. This bearing had only MINOR wear, because it was still getting SOME oil. The rod bearing got NONE.


I'm glad I figured out the root cause of the problem. I can feel better putting in a new engine without having to worry about it. I did, however find a few small issues dealing with the oiling system I will fix before I drive again.

1. Oil pump to pan clearance on driver side is 1.5mm. This is caused by the dent in the pan you can see above. Solution: pound out bottom of oil pan to gain clearance.

2. I should install an oil pressure gauge. It would not have helped with this problem, but it never hurts.

3. Oil feed for the turbo is unfiltered. I know this is common on every VRT, but I don't like it.

4. I have to remove the motor mount or the oil filter housing to change the filter. Solutions: a.) Remove factory oil filter housing and install remote filter. b.) deal with it c.)?????

5. I feel oil capacity may not be enough. Also, in case anyone was wondering, the oil level is supposed to be approximately 10mm below the block when full. Solution: a.) Accusump b.) enlarge oil pan, but this would cause it's own issues.

6. The driver side motor mount bracket needs to be trimmed down some where it mounts to the block. Not a big deal, but it can interfere with the oil pan like it was before, so a bit of grinder will help ease headaches.


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

Nice that you figure it out... dont give up,. just take your time, since you are walking uncharted territory and you may have to make/modify a bunch of stuff to get you running perfect.
The good news is that you are gonna have a proper beast in your hands when finished :thumbup::thumbup:


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

Picked up another junkyard motor yesterday, and ordered a new headgasket and new flywheel bolts. Should get those in late this week and drop the motor in this weekend. I have a few things to do in the meantime too.

I also snagged a MK4 valve cover at the same time, so it has a bit more chance of fitting (mostly) under a bonnet eventually.


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## bmxguy (Sep 18, 2008)

Wow great work! This is a very cool and unique project. Keep it up! :beer::thumbup:opcorn:


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

I've been slacking a bit. New motor is in and running. Has about 150 miles on it now.

I've started wearing hearing protection while driving. :screwy:

Also got the tablet fired up, and I must say, It is an awesome addition, and for the ~$200 price it is well worth it! Downside of that is, I'm too lazy to disconnect it to connect the laptop and do some tuning, so It's still on the tune from the blown motor. opcorn:

One thing I have noticed is that my AEM UEGO gauge and MS2 have inconsistent readings when comparing each other. If I can't figure it out, I'll just buy a PLX unit and hope it works.


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

Wideband issue was a dumb one, I guess I had the MS calibrated for the wrong sensor.

I put the turbo on Thursday night and started tuning. I'm currently running gate pressure (7 psi) Switched over to E85 that night as well. 

Got my first race in last night. A 1G DSM with an S366 on 25psi and e85. Ran twice from a 45 roll, and we were dead even both times. :thumbup:


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## VWallin (May 17, 2010)

We need a video of this thing!


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

VWallin said:


> We need a video of this thing!


X2 and pics of the engine with the turbo or it didnt happen


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

Ask and you shall receive.










http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ef77x1Me3HY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V-0L_V_aXK8&feature=youtu.be


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## izcorrado18 (Aug 21, 2005)

How much boost are you running?


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## bigdreamssmallwallet (Jan 22, 2009)

sounds good, you need to up that boost !


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## Nevaeh_Speed (Jul 9, 2004)

You need a fresh built block, all that work shouldn't go to waste. Cool idea.


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

Nevaeh_Speed said:


> You need a fresh built block, all that work shouldn't go to waste. Cool idea.


It's on the "to-do" list, but with rod bolts, this engine should handle it. Around 500hp a lot will start happening, namely:
Transmission will hate life
Diff/axles will shatter
Injectors will be maxed
I'll need a full cage
Traction will become a losing battle


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

Car has been running GREAT!

I took it on a 120 mile cruise Saturday. Probably the last nice day of the year. 70* weather on some winding roads through the Loess hills. :thumbup:

The only flaw I've found was that temps started to creep up on the interstate going 75-80. I'm guessing it is because my belly pan is off, so air is getting pushed under the radiator rather than through it. At least, I'm hoping this is the case, because otherwise I wasted $250 on a radiator and will have to buy one about twice that price. 

I had a slight issue with how the crank sensor was setup in the Megasquirt, but I got that resolved and now I can Idle at 800 RPM without issue.

Car will probably be going into storage shortly, so I likely won't have many updates till spring.


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

Finally got around to turning up the boost. 

11 psi feels great, minus the wheel spin (I took off the Mickeys) 

14 psi is where I found the limits of the clutch. ACT rates it at 330 ft-lbs, and it has taken a lot of slipping and other abuse in the past. I drove it home almost 20 miles with a blown rotary that required excessive clutch slippage to get moving.

Also, I'll need injectors sooner rather than later, they're close to topped out and I'm on winter blend E85. :facepalm:


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## Bx V-dubber (Dec 17, 2010)

wow, this is great. I'm surprised the "ricer" crowd hasn't tried to kill ya yet for the "sacrilege".:beer:


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

Haha. The cruise I did was entirely older guys with their domestic V8's and then me. I think they were most surprised the car made the journey. 

I ran a newer GT500 last night that put down just over 500, and ran a [email protected] in the 1/8 mile. We were both on street tires, so I launched really easy. He pulled a couple cars on launch and then gained about another car by the time we shut down. Return trip was a 45 roll, he slowly inched away from me and had me by about a full car by 120ish. :thumbup:

I did a virtual dyno log last night as well, needs to be leaned out a fair amount yet. At 13 psi, the clutch is just barely hanging on for life.


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## Bx V-dubber (Dec 17, 2010)

Yeah, some of my friends are American muscle. Straight way they have me beat. Corners & bends.....there ass' are mine. When they beat me on straight ways they laugh, I get them to do at least 2 more passes before calling it quits. I then laugh at them at the pump as they are forced to fill up their v8's & I'm sitting in my 4 banger turbo with 1/2 tank. Tee hee!


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## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

I'm running a 25-30% e85 blend, you'll get a tad more out of the injectors that way


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## Teknojnky (Jun 1, 2002)

Awesome work. I love this kind of stuff.


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## FER86GTI (Jul 22, 2010)

sweeeet! we need more updates though.


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

Car is in storage for winter and depression has already set in. The good news is my Forester XT is a beast in the snow. :laugh:

A friend set up a group buy on ID1000's, so of course I had to take the deal on them. These are configured to be 60mm, but my rail mounts are made for 48mm injectors. I'm contemplating running it long just so i can show the blingy adapters.


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## Eurovento1971 (Nov 27, 2012)

*Great*

Wow bro great work. I love this


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## Nitroracer (Jan 2, 2014)

Looks good. I myself am interested in doing this swap im my Fc. Mind sharing your Cnc files?


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

Nitroracer said:


> Looks good. I myself am interested in doing this swap im my Fc. Mind sharing your Cnc files?


Unfortunately there aren't exactly files for it. Since I wasn't running production, the parts were cut one process at a time. It allowed for better control of tolerances and slight tweaks to be made. All I have are some CAD drawings in PDF form that I used for reference(some dimensions are incorrect) that I can email you if you'd like.


Another update: I picked up some 288 cams from the mad conductor.


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## Nitroracer (Jan 2, 2014)

Send them My way please
[email protected]


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## the mad conductor (Nov 12, 2009)

have fun with them.. i did. i might end up getting a set of the 298s. but who knows:sly:


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

Haha, those were tempting too.

No real updates, pulled it out of the garage since we had a single 60+* here. That's rare in January. :screwy:

http://instagram.com/p/jXVo5pQeX0


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## Rapid Decompression (Dec 5, 2004)

PapioGXL said:


> Haha, those were tempting too.
> 
> No real updates, pulled it out of the garage since we had a single 60+* here. That's rare in January. :screwy:
> 
> http://instagram.com/p/jXVo5pQeX0


So cool. It really is a shame it could not fit under the hoodline. If not for that..I would be all over it. Would prob fut under the hood of a 300ZX


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

Rapid Decompression said:


> So cool. It really is a shame it could not fit under the hoodline. If not for that..I would be all over it. Would prob fut under the hood of a 300ZX


he could have easily made fit under the hood, he was just on a budget and on a rush at the time. 

use this for an intake 









And this for exhaust manifold









Or this SPA one to place the turbo in front or behind the strut tower


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## Rapid Decompression (Dec 5, 2004)

Nice. It did not look the valve cover would clear the hoodline...could just be how you have it mounted or maybe the way the pic was taken


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## xtremevdub (Jun 26, 2004)

Rapid Decompression said:


> Nice. It did not look the valve cover would clear the hoodline...could just be how you have it mounted or maybe the way the pic was taken


who knows, only the OP knows, but I got a feeling that there are factory options that would help with clearance.. like so.


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

For some reason I stopped getting notifications about replies. 

I do have a turbo hood for it, but that doesn't offer any more clearance than the NA hood.

A mk4 valve cover just barely won't clear at the current mount height. My biggest issue with the off the shelf cast turbo mani's is that they are all undivided. Ilike the divided housing and manifold setup, spools nicely and boost is easy to control. My plan is to have the turbo mounted below the stock manifolds.

For the intake, I'm contemplating lowering the alternator position and replacing the stock tensioner with a more compact idler. I would then use the alternator to tighten the belt. That would give me a fair amount more space to run the intake manifold.

I'm getting much better with my aluminum welding as well. A buddy had my weld his IC pipes on his turbo camaro. We were both very pleased with how they turned out.

(only pic I have)









I've got a mockup block at my parents garage, I just need to get the car to my garage and pull parts off to populate the mockup. 

I also decided I will be removing the head spacer and running 10.5:1 static. Biggest reason is the cams drop the dynamic CR significantly, so it should help drivability and performance going with the high static.

Quick little drive tonight screwing with a 2step while moving. I think this will be pretty neat when working properly for roll races. Set to 4600 RPM, 1st gear gives me 25mph, 2nd gear is 45mph and 3rd gear is about 63mph. The first time, when I let off the 2step, the boost spiked over 15psi (where overboost protection kicks in) so I shut off the boost controller and let it run ~7psi gate pressure. I had an issue with overshoot when used free revving, so it is set to 9/11 events cut. Next time I will try using 5/11 or so to smooth out the cuts.

http://youtu.be/UjYNGPJrKQI


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## Rapid Decompression (Dec 5, 2004)

VRs are my favorite. It would be cool to have one RWD. This would be a cool swap.


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

I've been slacking a lot lately, it's been too cold to do much of anything.  It was nice last night so I got the engine all prepped to yank. I'll probably do that when I get back from TX2K.

Parts have been showing up regularly though.

New clutch: ACT Xtreme w/ 6 puck. Rated at 560 ft-lbs of torque. That should do for now.
Racepartsolutions 50mm BOV. Cheap, great reviews and based off the old style Tials.
ID1000's
Supertech springs and titanium retainers
TT 288's
Another head gasket; I'm removing the head spacer and going to run 10.5:1 :screwy:
INA lifters
And in the next pic, some Hoosier QTP 26x9.5" tires. These are going on my stock wheels after 1320video's next burnout contest. 






And then my poor Megasquirt. This thing has been changed so many times, I gave up on keeping it neat.
Current mods:
Mapdaddy 4bar
JBperf PWM converter board for proper function of the OBD2 VR throttle body.
Boost control
Launch control
3 ignition drivers
Tach output so the tach doesn't go wonky when on the 2step.


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## Eurovento1971 (Nov 27, 2012)

Hey bro i tried to watch the vid. But its private can u send the direct link to [email protected]. thanks 

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

Eurovento1971 said:


> Hey bro i tried to watch the vid. But its private can u send the direct link to [email protected]. thanks
> 
> Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk


For some reason the video isn't showing up on my channel either. I'll try uploading it again when I get off work.


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## Slayer (Aug 8, 2000)

Oh snap! I can't wait to see how this comes out! 288's make me moist.


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

Cam porn.




Got the head on, clutch on, and the rod bolts installed tonight.


Also took a sawzall to my oil pump. :screwy:



Behold, a rear sump VR oil pump


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

A bit of an update. Hoping to set the motor back in the car tomorrow.  Finished up on the pan tonight, just ave to run to a hardware store for a magnet before it all gets installed. :thumbup:

Getting the rough shape made.


Start of the baffles tacked in. Drain plug is now in the far corner to allow ease of access in the car.



General outside shape.



Detail of the baffle featuring the trap door. 



Working on the cover plate for the driver side of the sump. Ideally no oil will drain here while it is running.



Showing inside the front cover and how much is shrouded by the baffles now.



Can't have everything perfect. My tab for the top plate is right where the dipstick should sit. Fortunately only the area below the hashes interfered, so I cut it off at the bend in this picture.


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

I fired it up and drove it around the block. I have a minor oil leak to fix, and would like to install an oil pressure gauge before I take it to any sort of revs.


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## Slayer (Aug 8, 2000)

Hows it sound with them 288's? :laugh:


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

Slayer said:


> Hows it sound with them 288's? :laugh:


Not as lopey as I wanted, but I can tune that in. lol.

Took it out with boost, the cams make it a completely different beast. It feels almost as fast as last year, except with 6psi instead of 13psi. :laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## Slayer (Aug 8, 2000)

Nice.. yeah I'm pretty much set on 288's when I build my vr6t


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K3SRCMsXR64


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## Rapid Decompression (Dec 5, 2004)

So tempting to do


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10152408381822112

Had lunch with some friends today.


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## EL DRIFTO (Jul 11, 2004)

what are you revving that to ?


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

Limiter is set to 7200 right now. As soon as my tach is working again, It'll be up around 7800 or so to try and stay in boost on the 1-2 shift. Shifting at 7000 right now puts it at 4051 in 2nd and if I shifted at 7800, it would be 4477, which should be enough to prevent falling on its face.:facepalm:

Also, it's running a tiny bit more boost now. As in *20.5ps*i total boost. :laugh: Timing is still conservative, and I'm going to try and work on the transient areas to get the turbo to come in faster.

I'll throw links to some videos from shenanigans this weekend when I'm not on my work computer.


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## Slayer (Aug 8, 2000)

PapioGXL said:


> I'll throw links to some videos from shenanigans this weekend when I'm not on my work computer.


Please do! what are you tuning it with? megasquirt?


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

Yep. MS2.

I found out my fuel pump isn't getting enough voltage, even though it is rewired. I'm going to re-rewire it and then I'll probably need to work on the tune some more since it will hopefully need less fuel (currently hitting ~90% duty cycle).

I drove it over 120 miles round trip to a dyno day and got these runs, and one more in:

First, first gen rx7 with a 5.3/auto swap. My first time digging it since the new cams/clutch. I spun hard on the launch, and short-shifted second. Pulled hard past him in 3rd though.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=703727123019805

Then ran my buddy's 5.3 auto malibu. He dead hooks consistently, I spun a bit and bogged hard into second. I don't think I used flatshift for some reason. He pulled out on me and stayed well ahead.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=703936899665494


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

Things I have learned tonight:
1. It's faster than a stock ZL1
2. It's almost as fast as a lightly modded ZR1
3. Hooning with under a 1/4 tank isn't recommended
4. 24v relays don't have enough pull to activate with 12v
5. I love my car
6. My car is too loud.
7. It loves timing.

:beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:



More videos from the other day:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CfXAJRAqriA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDK4P-l7Vnw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUBDtJmAaZo


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

Did some burnouts yesterday.



https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10152456009312112'






And one of my friends showed up with his American spirit dialed back a bit.


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

I may be downsizing on the cams a bit. It's just not very fun with this turbo waiting till 5000 for the fun to begin. Especially when you drop out of power on the 1-2 shift.

This shows stock cams at ~13psi vs the 288's at 19psi. (I let out early on the 288 graph, it holds torque past 7500)


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## kingslinky (Sep 13, 2007)

Totally rad, I like it.


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

I haven't updated in a while. Broke a ringland due to running low on gas while beating on it, motor is almost back together. While it was down I ordered a new Megasquirt 3x, a Nitrous Express kit, and decided to redo the intake and turbo manifolds.























Also, the car has a facebook page, https://www.facebook.com/TheRatchetRX7 I tend to keep it a bit more up to date.


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## platinumdub-18t (Jul 1, 2008)

this is really neat. where did you get that inline thermostat housing? is the thermostat tack welded in place?


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

It's a mezzeire unit, they have several options to coose from for inlet/outlet. The thermostat uses a rubber seal that goes on sits around it. Only modification I made was drilling some holes so a small amount of coolant will bypass the stat and keep it receiving warmer coolant from the head.


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

I've been slacking on updates. I tend to update my FB page a bit more often. 
https://www.facebook.com/TheRatchetRX7
https://www.facebook.com/TheRatchetRX7
https://www.facebook.com/TheRatchetRX7

I got my front VSS sensor mounted after some modifications to the aluminum front hubs.



















And got my new plate in. Special interest means no front plate. :thumbup: Not that I ever ran a front anyways.  (and friends convinced me to put the wing back on.)





Added some switches and led's to my center console. Clockwise they are: CEL, Oil pressure warning, nitrous purge, nitrous arm, launch control toggle (will become 3 step toggle), and line lock.


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

This car just doesn't want to live. :banghead:

Stripped 3rd gear out last night at ~20 psi.


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

Fixed the transmission; then cracked another piston.opcorn:


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## slowgti (Jul 15, 2003)

Here you go: http://www.seomotorsports.com/trans...nfiniti-g35-6-speed-transmission-adapter.html


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## Jckl (Aug 29, 2004)

I need to make a short trip over that way sometime and check this out..

What are you running for timing? I am running MS3 v3.57 with MS3X.. I blew my mk3 HG at 22psi but stuck a mk4 split with stock comp spacer (9:1 pistons) and been fine at 20psi with it. What cyl piston? Are you running different fuel trims to the far cyls? I am running my trims at -3 and +3.


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

Haven't checked this in a while, mainly because I've been lazy and there aren't any updates. :banghead:


Timing wise, I basically use a slightly modified map from paul. I think his was setup for pump gas and low compression, I'm 10.5:1 compression and e85, it works. lol. 

This time around it was cyl 1&2, because I'm dumb and thought I knew how the intake would behave (leaned those out). I'll be running even fueling from now on.


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## Jckl (Aug 29, 2004)

1,3,5 like a little more fuel at least on pump.. I am running 91 pump but 9:1cr.. 288's are huge lol.. I have heard of people having good luck with 268's but I opted to run 262's and wouldn't go back to stock..

Any plans to tune cylinder trims with EGT? I built EGT's into my manifold but have yet to use them as MS does not have 6 inputs left. I am working on something else to take care of that though. Have you started working with the MS3/3x yet? I am still trying to dial out my cold start settings and odly can't get my idle back to 950 after blowing the first HG.. Idle when cold is fine but when warm i am usually around 1100-1250.. I am running my tb off the 3x idle out rather than doing the tip120 mod on the ms3.

If your ever in the Des Moines area, hit me up..


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

Yeah, over heard the same -3/+3 split. My manifold doesn't allow much flow to the #1&2 runner so I took a little out. And apparently a little was too much. Lol. Last motor I switched back to stock cams to see if it would help low end a bit, it helped too much and that's how my tranny died. 

I'm not going to worry about egt's, too much money and it really is only good for letting you know if a cylinder died. I decided to not worry about idle with the ms3, because the obd2 throttle is goofy and I didn't have good luck with the ms2 running it. 

I am out in DSM every so often, but only for work. I'll let you know next time I'm staying in town.


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

im finally getting over being sick, and now the weather turned frigid. So I've been spending too much time shopping for upgrades. But the bullet and bought an 8.8 IRS kit. I still need to go to the junkyard and find the diff. Hoping to find a 3.55 ratio unit, should give me a decent mix between performance and cruising rpm.


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

I’m wanting to go faster for 2015, so that means new drivetrain parts, as I’m starting find limits of the stock ones. First up, the transmission; I’m switching to a TH400. This unit came out of a ’77 Pontiac Grand Prix.
Plans:
Fresh clutches and set clearance to middle of the range. 5/5/3 clutch counts.
Convert stock valve body to manual only (cheap and holds up to 750hp)
Billet forward clutch hub
HD Direct drum springs and .040” bleed hole
Aluminum apply pistons
Dual feed the direct.
Deep pan
34 element sprag and early direct drum with spirolok ring
Rollerize rear and between direct and forward hub
PTC custom converter
Strange forged trans yoke for 1350 joints
Studs for pan, I hate bolting into aluminum if I don’t have to.

I’ve only been into an auto a couple times in class, so I’m learning a ton as I go. 

Teardown:




Old direct drum and clutch pack. Won’t end up reusing any of this.


Intermediate clutches are in great shape.


Case lugs are all present, means the case is good to use.
 

“New” smooth TH400 drum. Spec says sprag race should be 3.159, I’d say it’s still in spec.


Had 2 different spring sets in the direct. Doesn’t matter anyways, they’re being replaced. Otherwise they’d alternate positions to stay even.


Old cast iron forward clutch hub. So small, that’s a 4” screwdriver.


One of several Summit care packages I’ve gotten. Pan studs, springs, hub, yoke, and modulator plug.


Checked height and surface on the pistons. This is the direct, it’ll need to be cleaned up and shaved a bit.


Looped the governor circuit. 


Ground some spools. One is for 1-2 and the other so I don’t get runaway line pressure in reverse. 


Pugged the exhaust hole for the 1-2 shortest set screw and tapped shallow. Red Loctite to hold it.


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## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

Nice work! Love the technical details :thumbup:


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

Professional drivers; closed course.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XnRZwCk_sEI


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## Slayer (Aug 8, 2000)

seems like that 1-2 shift puts you out of the sweet spot.. what rpm are you shifting that thing at?


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## PapioGXL (Jun 3, 2008)

7-7500

Part of the problem is the 2nd gear synchro is crappy on that trans, have to slam hard into gear at those revs in order for it to not just kick back. Engine still has good power once the clutch is back out though. I flatfoot shift, so it never loses boost. The race vs the other RX7 just shows exactly why I'm going auto.


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