# DIY How To: Wideband 02 harness conversion for support of Pressure Based Tunes



## 2001TTransport (Sep 18, 2005)

Wideband Conversion why?








When moving away from the factory ME7 tune you have options such as flashing the ecu with a fixed 93 octane tune, or go standalone, or move to BT tunes. Some of the quality BT tunes need the feedback from a wideband 02 sensor rather than the narrowband 02. With the feedback from the knock, cam, crank, MAP, with the wideband sensors the tuner is able to create a Pressure based tune that IMO is highly reliable. 

Wideband ECU Conversion applies to?
Early generation 225 TTs (AMU) had narrow band 02 sensors and did not have VVT, look at your head, if it's stamped BEA you should see an electrical plug on the right of the head at the cam chain tensioner which will confirm that you have a wideband already in which case you don’t need to read this wideband conversion.
Notice the electrical connector on this Cam Chain Tensioner, if your has this you have a wideband system already.









Required tools-Parts
1. You'll need a VW/Audi connector pin removal tool, you can source these at your local napa / or other parts dealer usually in a round circle tool that has multiple ends on it, or here are some other examples... the small green one on the lower right would be a good example, or in a pinch you can make one out of a pair of tweezers and a grinder

























2. Go to a junk yard, get half a wiring harness from a wideband VW GTI / 180HP TT or wideband 225 TT (simply look at the head and if the VVT has an electrical connector it should be a wideband harness). If you source one from a Wideband TT no problem, you can actually swap it right into your car! Don’t forget to also grab the plastic cover from under the car that is used to hold the 02 connectors. If the harness came from a VW the harness will be too short by about 8 inches at the ecu and as such you should not swap it into the car instead you should follow the steps documented below...The pics show the plastic 02 cover from the bottom of the car and shows the 8" problem between the Audi ECU location vs the VW notice how the plug to the ecu is too short on the bottom(VW) harness compared to the top(TT) harness.








Here's the deal, Don't cut the harness, I will always worry that I introduced extra resisitance and in the future anytime I have a wierd issue I will worry it's from my soldering / heat shrink etc.
















3. Next go to a dealer or there are a few sites on line and buy some new pins of various sizes, I keep a stock of small med and large pins, without wires and some like the 2nd pic with the yellow wire in them for projects like this. The one you need will be a large pin for the ecu # 115

















3. Go to Frys or somewhere get three Resistors, 15 Ohm 25 Watt. One is for the VVT, the other two are in case you want to do a evap delete and your LTF trims don't adapt, you either have to plug the elect back in or try the resistor. (With the Evap delete you don't get a CEL, but your LTFs don't adapt)








4. Source a WideBand motronic ECU and have your tuner place the appropriate BT Mafless tune on it. (VW ECUs will save you a lot of money and work fine, the pic below is generic don’t try to read the numbers) 








5. Pick up a wideband 02 sensor, I found autozone to be very cheap for a factory Bosch Wideband ($50 range) I specify a 1.8T GTI 2002








Time to get to Work: 
Disclaimer: This process is not for the average person, and I am providing it only so that you will know what worked for me. I am not stating that this is safe for you or your car, use this information at your own risk. You should double check with your tuner before taking any of these steps, you should ensure that the process below will work for your vehicle, you should check your Bentley and ensure that the pin out data / relays etc apply to your vehicle. You should have Voltmeters, shrink wrap, solder, soldering iron, etc and be comfortable with electronics before attempting this process.
(Disconnect your battery and allow the car to sit for 10-30 mins before starting this process)
1. Run a new wire from the new clip that you install in pin 115 of the ecu harness to the resistor, then to relay 100 (you need switched power from a relay) A suggested relay is 100 as it was used for your SAI, which you might have decided to delete, I am pretty sure that you'll want pin 3,. this relay is in the box right next to your plastic wire duct on the right hand side of the car leaving the engine bay to go through the drip tray. You'll notice in this pic where I am relocating relay 100 and the resistor into a 02 cap that I will place on top of the cover under the drip tray. I personally used a different relay for a secondary fuel pump so I could move the box completely, but that was me which is why I am guessing on pin 3.









5. Unwrap the donor harness, take the wires for the wideband 02 sensor along with the connector and the pins from the ecu, write down the color code / pin out on the ecu connector, pull the pins and then insert them into the harness on your car. (You'll have to remove the pins from your current narrowband. (I advise you to double check your Bentley and to read the elec drawings from the Bentley to determine what pins you should use) 
On WideBand harness for a BEA Motor G39=Heated Oxygen Sensor ECU Pins=[ 51=grey/white, 70=green, 52=grey/red, 71=black, 5=brown/green]

When you have the car running with the new wideband ecu remember to check your LTF ie adaptation via block 033 the % should be changing
Note 1: for me I found having the tuner kill ESP was a must... with big WHP ESP is just a problem you don't need. 
Note 2: If you go with a aftermarket EBC instead of using your N79 be sure to install some sort of boost cut safety. In my case I am reusing one of the evap solenoids and running a signal to it from my water meth computer. If the water meth computer receives an AFR problem message+EGT+RPM+TPS, then it sends a signal to the solenoid to dump my boost and keep me from cooking the motor. Once all is said and done don't worry about the following code when you vag your car... 18058 Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from Instrument Cluster P1650 -35-00 Since we are using donor ECUs from VW as they are alot cheaper, this code is always present, but does not cause a CEL, nor any emissions / performance concerns.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: DIY How To: Wideband 02 harness conversion for support of Pressure Based Tunes (2001TTransport)*

Linked into FAQ







And, getting your immo taken care of should get rid of the CEL


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## Malant (Aug 30, 2004)

Awesome post, I was going to make one of these when I convert over to wb but looks like you beat me to it. Great job I am sure this will help many.


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## [email protected] (Jun 16, 2008)

*Re: (Malant)*

thank you
now we just need a diagram of the ecu lol


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## cesarel (Aug 13, 2009)

Nice post!


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## chaugner (Jul 13, 2002)

*Re: DIY How To: Wideband 02 harness conversion for support of Pressure Based Tunes (2001TTransport)*

awesome. Will be doing this myself soon as well.


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## [email protected] (Jun 16, 2008)

*Re: DIY How To: Wideband 02 harness conversion for support of Pressure Based Tunes (chaugner)*

pics of ecu where pins go?


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

I get everything you are saying except why I would need the plastic cover from underneath the car. 

Basically you are taking the wires from the donor ecu and transplanting them into the TT wire harness. Is it truely necessary to do that? Couldn't I just add wires of my own and not use a donor wireharness as long as I have the appropriate pins for the harness?


_Modified by jwalker1.8 at 7:03 PM 1-24-2010_


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## 2001TTransport (Sep 18, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*

the plastic cover is what I used to protect my resistors, and a relay that I didn't want to leave in the engine bay. 
You can add wires, pins, connectors, and resistors without a donor harness.
Things to remember, even with the deletes, and a sep EBC, you still need to have certain items plugged in for electrical connections or try resistors, Basically if these items aren't addressed your LTF trims won't adjust.
N79, EVAP, VVT
Currently I have all the deletes from Uni, and use a resistor for VVT, but still have the N79/evap Electrically plugged in. One day when I have some additonal time I will try resistors for the N79 and Evap


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Ok, perfect. Can I use any ME7.5 ecu or only certain engine codes for the 225TT?


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

My goal is to get by with just adding in the resistor for the VVT and one new wire for the O2 and one new pin for the ECU's harness. If I can get away like this it will make it easy.


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Good stuff today. Went to VW dealer here in town and told him I need the o2 connector piece and he found it on ETKA and ordered it for me for $10. He also told me he would pin it out so all I have to do is solder the wires to it and run them to the ecu and I'm done. He also has some pins for the ecu he will give me for $5.
So wideband conversion will cost me
$20 misc pieces from vw
$5 wire
$50 o2 sensor
Wideband ecu traded for my old TB...new TB $20
Grand total for conversion $95 plus my time
Will post up some pics when I start to do this so people can see exactly which pins need to be altered. Waiting for ECU and pieces from VW. Hopefully done within a week!


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

One thing that I am confused on is the difference between this write and another write up I had read.
This thread says
*EDIT THIS PIN OUT IS FOR BEA*
G39=Heated Oxygen Sensor ECU Pins=[ 51=grey/white, 70=green, 52=grey/red, 71=black, 5=brown/green]
Whereas the other says
*EDIT THIS PIN OUT IS FOR AWP*
Six wire (1-green, 2-black, 3-blue/red, 4-white, 5-grey/white, 6-grey/red) connector.
Heated O2 before the cat
Pin 5 - ECM 51
Pin 3 - ECM 66
Pin 1 - ECM 70
Pin 6 - ECM 52
Pin 4 - ECM 5
Pin 2 - ECM 71

Differnce being this thread says something about G39 = heated oxygen sensor 
Other thread has pin 3 going to ECM 66.
*Detailed Pics to come including taking apart harness and wiring/heatshrinking*


_Modified by jwalker1.8 at 8:15 PM 1-25-2010_


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## 2001TTransport (Sep 18, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*

Your going to have to check it out at a junk yard or get someone else to chime in. in my case I replaced that side of the harness with a donor so I didn't have to worry about it. If I did it again, I'd do exactly what your doing. Unfortunately, the data...
On WideBand harness for a BEA Motor G39=Heated Oxygen Sensor ECU Pins=[ 51=grey/white, 70=green, 52=grey/red, 71=black, 5=brown/green]
Is from my bently and it shows the same data for both the AMU and the BEA, so it can't be right.
Be sure and post up once you have the final data and I'll edit the original with the updated info. Thanks


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Ok here is the dilemma I am having. The pic is from my Bentley for engine codes ATC, AWP, AMU.
The highlighted "G39" indicates the O2 sensor. where it says "T6q" and then a number represents the 6pin connector. and the number after the dash of "T6q" represents the corresponding pin to the O2 connector. For example "T6q/5" means that particular wire goes to pin number 5 of the connector.
The one that is highlighted T6q/3 that comes straight down off od G39 is going to something that says "54". This is not ECM pin 54. I am not sure what it is. The circled "D80" is "plus connection (87a-for evap system solenoid) in engine compartment wiring harness.
Can anyone help me out here? 
Where user VRT said ECM 66 goes to pin3, I have highlighted ECM "66" and "J299". J299 is secondary air injection pump relay.
*I am just confused about pin 3 and where that is going for sure. *


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: DIY How To: Wideband 02 harness conversion for support of Pressure Based Tunes (2001TTransport)*

Here is my version
First off I am not responsible for anything you do to your car or anyone elses. This type of work is done at your own risk.
Ok, I decided to make a collaboration of a few different DIY threads and advice I got along the way and make one final easy DIY thread.
Things needed
Wideband ECU
Solder (60/40) & soldering iron
New o2 harness
Wideband o2 sensor
wire & wire cutters
heat shrink tubing
15ohm 25 watt resistor and ECU pin
picks and various other tools such as a 7/8 wrench for the o2 sensors
First you will need your new o2 harness. You can order these from a VW or Audi dealer. *Part number 1J0-973-733* If you are cool to the guy working he will probably put the pins in for you and you will end up with something like the pic below and cost around $15. You will also need another pin that you will have to insert into your ecu harness for VVT (pin 115). For this I suggest taking your ecu to the dealer with you and ask them for the correct size pin just to make sure.
Your new o2 harness 1J0-973-733








Your new pin for VVT (ecu pin#115)








Now with your newly acquired pin and harness in hand locate the existing o2 harness. You will see 4 wires coming from that which are conveniently all used in your new harness.
Existing 4 pin o2 harness








From here get your soldering iron plugged in and make sure to have shrink tubing and a heat gun to re-insulate your wires. 
Your new wires will go as such
Existing harness New harness
Pin#1 goes to Pin#3
Pin#2 goes to Pin#4
Pin#3 goes to Pin#5
Pin#4 goes to Pin#1
(wire colors vary from some years and ecu but the pin out remains the same from the research I have done)
Now you will have two wires left for your new o2 harness. You will then need to run the two new wires from the ecu harness. I used 22gauge strand wire and 60/40 solder.
Pin 52 on ecu harness goes to Pin#6 on your new harness (there are two harnesses to the ecu, you need the larger side harness)








Pin 71 on ecu harness goes to Pin#2 (same harness directly above pin 52)








To disassemble your ecu harness look for the purple clips on either side.
















Use your pick and pull the clips out.
















Then pull the rubber orange seal out 








From here look for the tabs on back of the harness and pull the back off








Now you will see another purple clip, pull that straight out.








From here, gently pull out the two wire harnesses and add in your new wires (pins are there already and if you look very closely you can see tabs that will bend over and hold the wire in place. (no soldering necessary here, enter wires in through the orange seal)








Once you have your two new wires in and soldered into place, reassemble the ecu harness and move on to the VVT resistor.
The resistor I used was a 15ohm, 25 watt resistor








Now for the VVT you will use the other smaller ecu harness and pin 115 shown here








This side disassembles the same way as the other with the purple pins. Once disassembled, you will use your pic and push a small rubber grommet that is lodged into the pin 115 spot out and proceed to insert you new pin into this spot. It should "click" into place when it is in the correct orientation.








Use your pick and make a hole in the rubber grommet so you can thread your new wire in threw it.
























Soldered one end to the wire from pin 115 you added and the other end into the evap solenoid at pin#1 of the evap's solenoid.








Once you have all this done, clean everything up, zip tie your wires out of the way of anything hot, I relocated my evap solenoid under my rain tray and wrapped all the wires together with electric tape and plastic tubing for a clean look. Now you can plug in your new o2 sensor and ecu and enjoy your new MAfless file.
If there is anything in particular you would like a pic of just ask and I will see what I can do. As for pics of actual soldering, well I figure if you can not handle soldering on your own you should not be attempting this to start. Good luck and enjoy.


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## chaugner (Jul 13, 2002)

*Re: DIY How To: Wideband 02 harness conversion for support of Pressure Based Tunes (jwalker1.8)*

nice work both of you. So can I send my harness to you guys with a case of beer? pretty pls








I have done some of the electrical wiring for gauges and stuff but a bit skured doing something like you had described, never soldered before so rather have someone do it that has done it before







I am sure we can work out an ample compensation.


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: DIY How To: Wideband 02 harness conversion for support of Pressure Based Tunes (chaugner)*


_Quote, originally posted by *chaugner* »_nice work both of you. So can I send my harness to you guys with a case of beer? pretty pls








I have done some of the electrical wiring for gauges and stuff but a bit skured doing something like you had described, never soldered before so rather have someone do it that has done it before







I am sure we can work out an ample compensation.

Well, if you go the route I did you won't be removing the wire harness from the car. It's actually really easy. Just 7 wires total to solder and done.


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## 2001TTransport (Sep 18, 2005)

*Re: DIY How To: Wideband 02 harness conversion for support of Pressure Based Tunes (jwalker1.8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jwalker1.8* »_
Well, if you go the route I did you won't be removing the wire harness from the car. It's actually really easy. Just 7 wires total to solder and done.

2nd, after I had completed mine I stated that if I were to have done it again, I would have simply added the wires, which is not a lot of work. watch some Youtube on soldering and you'll be fine. Just make sure you don't use acid core


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Just a little clarification, UNI or Eurodyne deletes ONLY delete check engine lights...NOT that actual cause of the CEL. Meaning, even though you delete something you still need to fix it.
Example: If you have Eurodyne delete you VVT, you still need a resistor in there if your car does not have variable valve timing. If you do not your fuel trims will not adapt.


_Modified by jwalker1.8 at 10:31 AM 2-8-2010_


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*

can somebody tell me which cars have the wideband ecu?
ill just be ordering this from a junkyard. i cant tell the guy, "look at the cam tensioner and see if it has a plug"


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## Golfsyncro18T (Feb 15, 2004)

*Re: DIY How To: Wideband 02 harness conversion for support of Pressure Based Tunes (2001TTransport)*

I have just completed the process off doing this conversion on my 2001 Audi TT 225 AMU and it all worked out very well, except now I have one lingering DTC:
17862 - Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor 1 (G235): Short to Ground 
P1454 - 35-00 - -
I can't help but wonder if it related to the ECU swap. In fact I'm not even sure if my car has an EGT sensor.
Anyone have any ideas?


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Your car does not have an egt sensor. I have the same car. Which ecu did you put in?
Also, which way did you do it? Just adding in the extra two wires or swap harnesses?


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## Golfsyncro18T (Feb 15, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*

I put in an 06A 906 032 NK that has now been rewritten to 8N0 906 018 BB. I did not swap the entire harness, just added two wires and re-pinned the original wires into the new wideband plug.
The reason I am confused is the Bentley wiring diagram clearly shows that the AMU has a G235 (EGT Sensor), but I can't find it on the car and I seriously doubt it's there.


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Which page in the manual are you reading this? Are you sure there are no asterisk ** next to the diagram?


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## Golfsyncro18T (Feb 15, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jwalker1.8* »_Which page in the manual are you reading this? Are you sure there are no asterisk ** next to the diagram?

That's the funny part, if the AMU doesn't have an EGT then it is a blatant misprint in the manual. For the 2001 Audi TT under the section with the Motronic ECM no. 2/6 there is clearly a G235 with two asterisks above it and then on the right margin next to the two asterisks it says "- only engine code AMU"


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jwalker1.8* »_Which page in the manual are you reading this??


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## Golfsyncro18T (Feb 15, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*

It's from a digital eBahn manual so there are no page numbers, but I did give you the description of where you could find it in the printed manual.
Anyway here is the page.


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

In my opinion (unless I am missing something) if the page you posted is in regards to a 2001 AMU it is a misprint. I have a 2001 AMU and have had it apart several times and am positive there was not EGT sensor. On another note, which engine code did the ecu come from? I saw where you posted the ecu code but curious of the engine code and year make/model of the new ecu.


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## 2001TTransport (Sep 18, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*

I've had my AMU apart a ton of times, no factory EGT on mine. 
I know there is a EGT on some TTs (BEA?) ask Joe, he's had to replace two of them.


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## DurTTy (Aug 14, 2007)

call me ignorant, but are you guys saying that changing to WB02 is only worth it for a mafless file? 
what about a bt file with the all deletes except MAF? 
I am curious about this ... i think i talked to Jwalker1.8 via IM about this ... im in the same town as SEM, they got WB02 Harnesses but for VW.. 
if i cannot source a wb02 harness from a scrap tt i will need to look into this method... seems like walker1.8's method appears to be the proper way to mod the harness
some advise fellas? -- wiring and soldering is not my thing :S 
sorry jwalk1.8 i thought i saved our convo...but its lost... if you wish you can shot me another pm. 


_Modified by DurTTy at 10:13 AM 2-25-2010_


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Actually, any BT file is better off wideband. I had uni narrow band and it totally sucked. Search my name and look at the air fuel in my dyno graphs...lean spikes, and generally extremely rich. Since converting to wb my mpg went up 10mpg!!!! Anyway, the only way I wouldn't convert is if I had a stock turbo...BT mafless or with a maf it is worth the conversion.
PM me and I would be happy to help with any questions you may have.


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## DurTTy (Aug 14, 2007)

hey thanks, i sent you a pm


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## 2001TTransport (Sep 18, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jwalker1.8* »_Actually, any BT file is better off wideband. 


I realize that a narrowband with enough time can be dialed in close, it's hard to get that kind of attention. Look at Mthis1, he had his narrowband tune for years and was very happy with it (mostly) then he was able to have GIAC pull it into their shop and custom tuned it for him, now he's really stoked. 
Most of us don't have that luxury, the Wideband 02 tune is a great compromise IMO compared to the only other effective solution (standalone)


_Modified by 2001TTransport at 12:16 PM 2-25-2010_


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## DurTTy (Aug 14, 2007)

im trying to avoid standalone as well....
Tune on a factory ecu is a much more attractive to me
but it was also advised that the NB02 be converted for a 630CC file on AWP TT ecu. 
i called the dealer for the part # 1J0-973-733 
they claim and confirmed by the search linked, that it is an empty housing with no wires. 
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-...1348/ 
Ok... according to a few placed... its 1mm wire about a foot or less in length with pins already assembled (one on each side of wire)
the length is 1MM, part number is:: 
*000-979-133B -- for standard high heat resistant 02 wire.
000-979-133AB for High heat, gold plated connectors *
you get 3 wires and cut in 1/2 im assuming. which fills this 6 pin connector?

Here is a link to the wires to have an idea:: http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-...9-133/
_Modified by DurTTy at 1:22 PM 2-25-2010_


_Modified by DurTTy at 7:30 PM 2-25-2010_


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## DurTTy (Aug 14, 2007)

can you show the actual finished setup from Pin 115 on the small ecu clip all the way to the evap solenoid?
im just at odds with where the resistor goes and where the solenoid clip is.. 
sorry for all the follow ups :S but i wanna make sure that im on the same page as you....
im off to the dealer right now to get the parts.. ill be getting the gold plated pin connectors


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## DurTTy (Aug 14, 2007)

considering you were trying sell a connector and some wires for 150USD ... lets not forget that .. but .. 
i still maintain the idea that you should not accuse tuners of trying to hide things from the public... 
i spoke with uni, they indicate its a hit or miss situation.. with the adaptation 
if you feel that you have to degrade yourself and rant .. thats fine no harm done. 
fyi .. im not going to be doing any hacking, as i said ... wiring and sldering is not my thing ... it will be done by some1 else, and i will just clip it in.
for all that attempt this .. dont forget this is a hack of a harness.... the non hack up way is to find the awp/bea tt harness and replace correctly. 
unfortunately, there is little to no other options with this as i am running out of time b4 the motor goes in, the tune is done now










_Modified by DurTTy at 1:45 PM 2-26-2010_


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## DurTTy (Aug 14, 2007)

the cost of doing this is 60$ CDN so about 57USD. 
AUDI DEALER PART #S
Clip : 1J0-979-733
3*WIRE FOR CLIP :000-979-133-AB (1MM)
1*WIRE FOR ECM PIN 115: 000-979-134-A (1MM)

ill give you the credit for the addition to the FYI .. its well deserved .. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by DurTTy at 2:01 PM 2-26-2010_


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## DurTTy (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: (jwalker1.8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jwalker1.8* »_
I offered you everything you needed to do the conversion including the ecu!!! Ecu is not cheap.
good luck with your conversion.

Thanks man, 
it was clearly a case of broken telephone then.
either way,.. you got me going in the right direction now.. thats what matters http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## DurTTy (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: (jwalker1.8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jwalker1.8* »_
Also, what was I accusing again? I told you VVT delete will delete the code but will not recover adaptation and that is all. If that is anything more than trying to be helpful ok but honestly dude you are a dick Just about everything you stated here is a fabrication of the facts.
It's cool though, however you need to justify yourself is fine by me.

again .. if you must degrade down to a rant thats fine... 
its a dog eat dog world out here.. it doesnt hurt to rub shoulders.. its just a part of lifè.
sounds like you take things a little personal, 
if you feel that the tuner claims are not factual, which s a consumer i am inclined to believe, then by all means make contact with them and express your concerns. 
despite your rants your are an ok guy i guess, just count down from 10 and you will be ok... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by DurTTy at 2:12 PM 2-26-2010_


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## 2001TTransport (Sep 18, 2005)

*Re: (DurTTy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DurTTy* »_... rant thats fine... 

I posted my data which was a HELLLAAAA lot more than anyone before me did. I posted what I liked and didn't and advised others NOT to make the same mistakes.
Jwalker1.8 read the post, asked questions, and came back with value add, to pretty much complete the post helping others even more.
Durtty: When your done do the same, I just read a page of trash for no reason, give me my 3 mins back


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## DurTTy (Aug 14, 2007)

*Re: (2001TTransport)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2001TTransport* »_
I posted my data which was a HELLLAAAA lot more than anyone before me did. I posted what I liked and didn't and advised others NOT to make the same mistakes.
Jwalker1.8 read the post, asked questions, and came back with value add, to pretty much complete the post helping others even more.
Durtty: When your done do the same, I just read a page of trash for no reason, give me my 3 mins back









I agree, keep it technical,


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: (DurTTy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DurTTy* »_
if you feel that the tuner claims are not factual, which s a consumer i am inclined to believe, then by all means make contact with them and express your concerns. 


I think you miss the point. It is not that the tuner's claim is false, the tuners will tell you straight out that what they are doing is deleting a check engine light.
If you are inclined to believe otherwise by all means give it a try and see what happens.
Report back and let us know how it works out.


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## DurTTy (Aug 14, 2007)

Dealer told me parts will be ready on tuesday. 
BTW 
as it was not entirely clear to me at 1st, 
based on the pics .. after discussing with jwalker1.8 it was concluded that
the evap solenoid valve is not the only place where the resistor can be attached to.. for those looking at alternate sources. 
evap solenoid (stock location is beside the Power Sterring Reservoir) which means a wire would have to run from harness all the way to the front by the headlight. 
i was originally confused since it appears to be out of location in the pic, this is cuz jwalker has done the evap delete 
aparently, as advised, any constant 12v source can be used. 
im going to have all this prepped and hopefully i can get some pics in while i have an empty engine bay


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: (DurTTy)*

can someone clear up something else please?
the resistor atteches one end to the wire you add to the smaller harness clip on the ecu.
the other end needs any switched 12v. pin #1 form the evap solenoid was reccomended.
is that correct?
lastly, i scored an awp ecu from an automatic gli.
i plan on using it in my 2002 TT 225.
i will be getting maestro on it and immobilizer defeat.
are there any complication to doing this??


_Modified by speed51133! at 8:08 AM 5/1/2010_


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Yes, that loose yellow pin I sent you is for the resistor. The pin will attach into the ecu harness, then will have the resistor inline, then will go to the evap or where ever you choose.
It sounds like you should be good to go with that ecu, the one question I do have is are you 100% positive you are narrowband to start? I thought some 2002 where wb. I may be wrong with that assumption though.


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## artur vel 2 hoot (Nov 25, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*

2002 TT 225 w/AMU engine is narrow band for sure http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
180 HP is different story











_Modified by artur vel 2 hoot at 6:55 PM 5-1-2010_


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (artur vel 2 hoot)*

what he said.
BUT
I do have in the trunk of my car a FRESH rebuilt AEB head.
doesnt that head have VVT??
Is there any benefit to actually adding it?


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

No, that head does not have vvt. Most people delete the vvt so IDK if there is a benefit.


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*

gotcha!
do you happen to have any spare resistors?


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

HAd one but sold it to a guy already. You can get them here


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*FV-QR*

This one to be exact


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## robingohtt (Nov 6, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*

good write-up!


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## robingohtt (Nov 6, 2005)

great...I was going to follow this DIY closely as I am doing this now but all the pixs and messages are all screwed!


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## storx (Dec 6, 2006)

i started a list of mods pages i wanted to keep... cause of how hard it was in the past to find the good ones when i needed to.. so click my mod pages.. the WIDEBAND conversion is on it..


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## volkswagendude01 (May 1, 2006)

humm... i have a strange question i may be wrong but i have a 2001 tt225 with AMU stampted on the head. the car was bought used so i have no idea what was done to it. but i do have a VVT plug on the cam chain tensor and its plugged into the wiring harness. is this a wideband?? would there be any way it was like that from the dealer with it being 01 ? what would another way to just confirm that it is indeed wideband


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

how do you know you have a VVT plug? 
take a pic. 

there is a cam position sensor on the AMU head. not the same as the vvt. 

are thre any issues with respect to emissions scanning at the state inspection when swapping from an AMU stock ecu on an audi tt to a wideband AWP ecu from a VW? 

im not going to delete anything except the VVT, which will be resistored out.


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

I can't imagine there would be a problem since many of these cars came with out VVT. I personally have VVT delete and no CEL so if that helps...as for the other guy above who posted about his AMU VVT TT, we confirmed his is in fact narrow band


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## volkswagendude01 (May 1, 2006)

speed51133! said:


> how do you know you have a VVT plug?
> take a pic.
> 
> there is a cam position sensor on the AMU head. not the same as the vvt.
> ...


looking from the front of the car, the camshaft position sensor is to the left of the head. the VVT would be the other sensor plugged into the rigt of the head correct? or is there 2 camshaft position sensors ???:screwy: 



jwalker1.8 said:


> I can't imagine there would be a problem since many of these cars came with out VVT. I personally have VVT delete and no CEL so if that helps...as for the other guy above who posted about his AMU VVT TT, we confirmed his is in fact narrow band


yes, both o2 sensors are narrowband. so im guessing there was a model with vvt and narrowband? or was things messed with at once?


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

i know this is old but i wanted to bump it any how........ im in the midst of changing some stuff on my TT...... made this today for my wideband ecu swap........ 


its a plug-n-play narrow to wide band O2 adapter. has the 2 needed pins for the ecu and flip flopped around the wires between the 2 plugs for the 02 wires that get reused. 

no idea if ill ever go back to narrow band but .... maybe down the road there will be a reason. :facepalm:


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

There is a company that sells basically what you are talking about...a bit pricey at 125 plus shipping (canadian)


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

cost me zero, had an harness to remove the wideband plug w/ the needed parts going into the ecu. maybe toss up a link encase someone else needs the info.

now to find the needed resistors, seems they are not so easy to find in my area.


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

Here you go!!! http://www.weisd.com/store2/NTERES/25W015.php


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## 2001TTransport (Sep 18, 2005)

carsluTT said:


> cost me zero, had an harness to remove the wideband plug w/ the needed parts going into the ecu. maybe toss up a link encase someone else needs the info.
> 
> now to find the needed resistors, seems they are not so easy to find in my area.


If you have a Fry's Electronics near by they will have them also.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

To comment on passing emissions I can only speak for NY state- I recently passed flawless with a unitronics wideband tune swapped ECU into my TT. No cat, evap, vvt, sai, n249 & no oxygen sensor spacer.

Uni forces all blocks to pass I believe.


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

got my car done today........ only it doesn't run...... aww the fun starts........ 

:sly: 

started a thread as i dont want to muk up this fine info based thread........ 

hopefully its easy to figure out and down the road ill be soon 

:beer:


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

Did this on my 2001 225TTQR this week as I have switched over to wideband and Maestro 7...worked very well! Bump for a very nicely written up DIY. Just wish we still had the pics! 

Only difference in mine...

-bought new 02 harness and wiring from dealer and pinned it all in myself vs. trying to find a AWP harness, etc. 
-used one of the nice little "delete resistor" plugs that IE now sells

Can confirm that switched power for VVT can be run to socket 3/terminal 3 on the relay 100 relay socket. 

Nothing to be afraid of here! 

Joe


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Added to FAQ


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

Save your self some head ache and get the race line ws conversion harness plug and play











Wide band made easy:thumbup:


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

I'm getting a dtc saying the intake cam is over retarded. 
Did I hook up the vvt resistor wrong??


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

from an audi forum:

Yes, if the ecu is for a 2001, it will expect the vvt tensioner. If it is unplugged it will throw this code:

17939 - Camshaft Timing Adjustment: Open Circuit
P1531 - 35-00 - -

If you are thinking about putting the proper resistor in its place (10-18 Ohms), it *will* prevent that code. However you will get one or both of the following codes instead:

16396 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake): Advance Setpoint not Reached (Over-Retarded)
P0012 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

16395 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake): Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)
P0011 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

If you say, "forget this" and just pull the fuse for it, you will get this code:

17938 - Camshshaft Timing Adjustment: Short to Ground
P1530 - 35-00 - -

I had the run-around from my VVT tensioner and have gotten all these codes at one point or another. 



SO, you guys resistoring the VVT when doing the wideband swaps.....are you getting these codes?
I am getting the over retarded code.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

I had my VVT resistored off with two different AWP ECU's now and didn't have any of those codes at all.

Since I've installed a VVT module and still don't have those codes...

What wires & ECU pin are you using?


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

i verified with a multimeter that im getting a constant 12v.
I am getting it from the evap solenoid harness right next to the power steering resivoir.
There are 2 wires in the harness, one fat, one thin. It is the fat one.

I am running a wire with 15 ohm resistor (actually I am running a 10ohm resistor 20 watt and a 5 ohm 10 watt resistor in sieries since radio shack did not have a 15 ohm) to the proper ecu pin 115 on the smaller ecu harness.

if i had the wrong pin, i would be getting different/more codes.....

my fuel trims are adapting also, i checked the proper block 33, and saw the % number changing everytime the afr would change while idling.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

The wire to use off that EVAP harness would be the blue/yellow one and it is the thicker one.

You should have a 330 ohm 10 watt resistor (seems like this is where ya went wrong)

Then the connection goes to pin 115 on the ECU.

I got my solder in resistors from parts express. You can also get the plug in type really nice ones and an OEM connector to plug them into from IE or postreleased.com


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

330 ohm!? Read the first page of this DIY. An all the other diy's also say the same 15 ohm. Where do you get 330 from?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

From the other threads I've read (1.8T tech, engine bay cleanup threads) and what I've personally used on many cars with success.


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

ok. will get one tonight on the way home and give it a shot.
thanks for your help


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

speed51133! said:


> ok. will get one tonight on the way home and give it a shot.
> thanks for your help


Check out this:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ng-up-Engine-bay...Removing-SAI-N249-PCV-EVAP

I think the OP made a mistake on here that's all!


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

well that thread is all about evap and SAI stuff being deleted.

im talking about the variable valve can timing not being used.


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

I'd like I add to this thread that if you do a wide and swap you have to tell the bt tuner that you will not be using vvt.... It has to be coded out. Resistoring is not enough. I just found out the hard way...


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## project92raddoslc (Oct 16, 2004)

Trying to do to NB to WB conversion in a 225TT in the next few weeks. Will ANY wideband ecu work or does it need to be specific to a TT or 6 speed car? Most of the ones i'm finding are AWP 5 speed or auto ecus. Will these work once Uni does the flash?


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

awp ecu works...


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## project92raddoslc (Oct 16, 2004)

speed51133! said:


> awp ecu works...


 awesome, thanks :beer:


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## Alec's TT (Jan 28, 2013)

Anyone else not getting any coolant temp readings after a swap? My dash pod is still in the mail but the climate control says -60 all the time..

Alec


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## creyesjr11 (Jun 4, 2014)

*is mine vvt?*

So i bought an 02 AUDI TT convertible AMU motor... Missing only the head... No biggie, i bought another AMU swap which I'm about to install, ( just gotta finish putting the new timing belt, water pump, etc. Etc.) Having an extra bottom block, that's attached to the car, i decided to go to the junk yard today in search of a head.. I only found 1.. An AWV, (which i had no idea even existed) off of a 04 VW BEETLE.) In great conditions, bought it for $90, took me a minute to take off, i never worked on a bettle before and found it a bit awkward at first. I finally noticed at home the vvt solenoid on the side of the head and i noticed my AMU motor doesn't either, stumbled upon this thread and now i wanna do this, Can i use the AWV ecu?


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## vtraudt (Mar 1, 2010)

*Wideband conversion MK4 - anybody got one?*

Anyone out here that has a wideband conversion kit on hand?
Ordered one from Reflect Tuning for $90; got order confirmation and tracking. A week later, no product and tracking turns out to be fake, no USPS scans. 
No answers to email on company website, company facebook page, direct email. 
Just another fly by night company it appears.

Now scrambling with project; Unitronics version is 2 weeks delivery. 

https://d2isyty7gbnm74.cloudfront.n...d74aebad550453a236cfaaa24f5aa3b/original.jpeg

Straightforward conversion for Mk4 narrowband to wideband ECU with wideband sensor (in this case, ECU is 032 HF from a Jetta).

Shipping to MI 48114 (or pickup in that area if local).


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## Dave Brabant (Sep 4, 2017)

Hey I'm trying to run a awp ecu on my awd I just want to convert it to wideband o2 sensor is there anyway I can just use a wideband o2 harness from a junkyard awp and o2 sensor to make it work or do I have to get resistors and everything


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## krashot (Sep 13, 2020)

Sorry for replying an old thread.

Can someone assist me with the wideband installation? I have AUM engine (swapped from AJQ) I got AUM ECU but I think wiring is narrowband, do I need just to wire the lambda wires? No resistors and stuff? Can anyone assist me? My car runs like ****e currently!


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