# Brake Job Shopping List -- Bendix?



## tomato_red (Feb 3, 2016)

I'm replacing the pads, rotors and fluids in my 2000 Jetta GL 2.0 next week, and I'm trying to finish up my shopping list. I only drive to get to work, etc. so I haven't planned anything fancy. Would anyone mind skimming it to see if I've missed anything, or if I've picked a terrible part? I'm a bit concerned about the rear pads in particular.
Thanks!

Front rotor (2): Bendix PRT5239 280 mm vented rotor
Rear rotor (2): Bendix PRT5238 232 mm solid rotor
Front pads (1): Bendix CFC768S copper free ceramic with wear-sensor
Rear pads (1): Bendix D340CT

Consumables:
VW DOT4 B000750M2 Brake Fluid (2 liters)
Blue Loctite Threadlocker
Permatex 80078 Anti-seize
CRC Disc Brake Quiet
CRC 5351 Brake Caliper Synthetic Grease
Permatex 82450 Brake Cleaner

Hardware:
Wagner H14925 (2) -- Disc Brake Caliper Bolt, Rear (two caliper pins and two self-locking bolts per kit)
Wagner H5078 (2) -- Disc Brake Caliper Bolt, Front (two caliper pins per kit)
Wagner H18001 -- Disc Brake Caliper Guide Pin Boot Kit, Rear
Wagner H8217 -- Disc Brake Caliper Guide Pin Boot Kit, Front

Probably doesn't need to be replaced:
CARLSON	H9413 -- bleeder valve, rear
CARLSON	H9410 -- bleeder valve, front

Special tools:
Motive 0100 Power Bleeder
Schwaben Brake Caliper Piston Tool Kit
Hand Impact Driver
Aquarium hose
Turkey baster
Funnel


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## GasInMyVeins (Jul 11, 2010)

Looks like you have everything, aside from the wrench for the bleeder. Rock Auto has those rear pads, by the way.


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## tomato_red (Feb 3, 2016)

Thanks for the tip on rockauto.com and for scanning the list over. I do have an 11mm box wrench for the bleeders, although I had to buy 13 & 15mm wrenches for the bolts (I guess we've gotten away with using sockets for everything so far). I'll be putting everything together and ordering later tonight, so it's a relief to have a second pair of eyes go over everything.
With everything taken into account, the consumables are actually going to be close to the hardware in terms of costs. I'll have to find a nice box for them so it's less expensive the next time around. The cost is looking close to 1/3 hardware, 1/3 consumables, 1/3 specialty tools.

I was a little disappointed by the lack of available testing data for brake parts. I didn't realize how spoiled you are when you're shopping for computer parts and everything has been tested to death.


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## rcprato (Sep 14, 2007)

FWIW I am not a fan of ceramic pads, for daily driver semi-metallic are best but it will require you to wash car a little more often.


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## GasInMyVeins (Jul 11, 2010)

tomato_red said:


> I was a little disappointed by the lack of available testing data for brake parts. I didn't realize how spoiled you are when you're shopping for computer parts and everything has been tested to death.


Most of the brands are super-protective of their data, so there isn't much out there. Hawk is the only one I've seen that publishes coefficient of friction curves for all their pads.


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## tomato_red (Feb 3, 2016)

Ah. Does make making a good decision harder, though.

Thanks rcprato. Already ordered, unfortunately. I'll play it by feel I guess - if they're too foreign or stopping is slow I'll replace them a second time. 

I have to postpone working on this for the moment. I turned my car on today and heard air flowing from the dashboard. It sounded like a fan had turned on (more gentle than a hiss), and went silent when I pressed the brake. Some quick searching on these forums points towards either a bad vacuum hose or a bad brake booster, which would be an expensive and time consuming surprise. I don't want to have to flush the system twice either way.
ABS light briefly turned on last week. Hopefully not a separate issue -- sometimes I feel like I'm rebuilding my entire car piece by piece this year.


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## tomato_red (Feb 3, 2016)

Most of the parts arrived today. Still a few more to go. I'm going to edit the first post to include the brake hardware part numbers (Wagner H14925 (2), Wagner H5078 (2), Wagner H18001). Might save someone a few minutes looking them up in the future (they're the bolts that everyone tells you to replace, before mentioning that they re-used theirs with new lock-tite). I grabbed a few sets of each in expectation that the current hardware is rusty and seized. 

Edit: Noticed that the kits don't include the self-locking bolts for the front brakes. I guess you have to head to the hardware store for those.

On a side note, brake pads smell _terrible_. Everything else is neatly in a box on the shelves, but _those_ are being stored in the shed.


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## bjchase55 (Jul 31, 2015)

tomato_red said:


> I was a little disappointed by the lack of available testing data for brake parts. I didn't realize how spoiled you are when you're shopping for computer parts and everything has been tested to death.


What type of data would you want to see?

Brake testing is expensive. A simple performance test cost $1500 and that's a dyno test which doesn't always translate to the real world. But it's great for comparative purposes for development and validation. That's also only for one pad number on one application.

Pad life: extremely dependent on the driver. People who drive mostly highway will get a lot more miles. If a company published estimated pad life they would shoot themselves in the foot because there are too many real world variables.

Dust: pads aren't the only thing that causes dust. Again a lot of real world variables.

Performance: Assuming stopping distance? Highly dependent on the tires. How many times have track times been criticized because one car used sticky tires while the other used all seasons? Now someone who has crappy tires sues the brake company because their car didn't stop as advertised.

Noise: Real world variables again. Rotors can cause noise. Improper brake job could lead to noise. Noise characteristics change per the environment (even if they are inaudible).

Coefficient of friction: constantly changing.

Sent from the abyss using Tapatalk


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

to remove the rear caliper guide bolts, you need a thin open end wrench to provide counter support. Regular open end wrenches are too thick for the job


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