# Project Blacker II BEV 16V Turbo



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V*

Alright im starting this thread now but im not really all the way there on my parts yet to start the swap over but Im making a detailed list of all the parts that I have had to get so far...
book mark this one.... lots of updates and Pictures for everyone looking to do this swap..... ill credit elRey for doing this first... he gave me the idea and i used a lot of his information to get my build going....
Here is a picture of the ride right now

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Here is the Parts list i have so far...... I figured that if im going to tear apart the block and replace the piston rings i fried.... I better replace everything else or i might blow the welds on my intake
*Parts List*
- 3 1/4" Flex Hone (Search eBay thats where i got mine from)
- Head Bolts -> 91290A560 -> http://www.mcmaster.com
* For Canadians like me - contact http://www.motionindustries.com and give them the link to the mcmaster headbolts... they can order them for you as mcmaster wont ship to canada*
- Digifant Injector Seats
- 16V head Gasket Kit
- 16V Piston Rings
- 16V Throttle Body Gasket
- MKIV 2L Throttle Body Gasket
- AEG or 16V Upper Downpipe Gasket
- 16 Plug Wires
- 1.8T Trigger Wheel (N 011 908 2)
- 1.8T Cam Position Sensor
- Valve Guides (4 or 8 you really only need to do the 4 exhaust ones)
- 16v tensioner
- gasket remover
- automatic transmission fluid for honer
- AEG (99-01 2L) Downpipe
- Lexus GS300 3.0L FI Timing Belt
- 2004 Golf 2L Timing Belt Kit (I got mine from FCP Groton got a great deal - Free Shipping no Duty/Brokerage to Canada)
_Timing belt and Tensioner (you cant use either so I would try and trade them for the 1.8T tensioner of you can)
Water Pump with Metal Impeller
Thermosat
Sepentine Belt
Camshaft Seal
Crankshaft Seal)_
- 1.8T (Late Model) Camshaft Gear (06B 109 111)
- 16V Timing Belt Tensioner
- Lower 16V intake Manifold
- Upper 16V Scirocco Intake Manifold
-16V Exhaust Manifold
- Complete Head with Cams and Coolant Flanges and Valve Cover 
*- I MUST enphasis that you want it complete.... make sure you get all the exhuast
studs and intake studs.... also all of the bolts to hold the intake and valve cover
onto the head.... all of these bolts and nuts add up to a lot..... trust me i had to 
buy them.... the less of them you hvae to buy the better off youll be)*
-Bahn Brenner MkII T-Body Adaptor to 3" ( http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_..._to_3 )
- Fabricated 2.0L Throttle Body Plate/Flange (I molded this piece off the MKIV 2L TB Gasket)
- Fabricated 2.0L Coolant Flange
- Two O-Rings from the MKIV side Coolant Flange (one is for the sensor)
- 2L 16V (9A) Pistons
- 2L 16V (9A) / 1.8T Rods / Integrated Engineering or pauter 20mm x 144mm
- Nuts and or Bolts for Connecting Rods (if you dont go aftermarket)
- MKIV 2L Rod Bearings
- Plastigauge (Get a couple incase you screw it up)
- 16V Distributer
- Distributer Shims and Washers (cant be purchased seperately without the distributor so save them)
- Bahn Brenner 16V Fuel Rail ( http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_...l_Kit )
- Bahn Brenner MKIII/MKIV FPR Adaptor ( http://www.bahnbrenner.com/med...=1833 ) - (Use this with AEG/AVH/AZG - Not required for BBW or BEV Engine Codes)
- Some Rags
- Volkswagen G12 Coolant
- Assembly Lube
- 5L of 5W40
- Oil Filter
- Throttle Body Cleaner for the Pistons
- 99 (beetle) AEG PCV Valve Cover Oil Cap
- Painters Tape
- Zip Lock Bags for bolts and Nuts (I loose bolt and nuts all the time and tearing apart and engine I needed something to label so i wont loose them)
- Liquid Gasket
- Lower Intake Manifold Side Block Off Plate (Custom)
- Front Head Coolant Flange Block Off Plate (Custom)
- Injector O-Rings (Not required for new injectors)
- 3/4" Brass/Copper "T" Fitting (Home Depot)
- 1 Foot of 3/8" Heater Hose
- Hose Clamps (I got a few not sure home many ill need but ill update this when im done)
- Volkswagen Power Steering Fluid
*Turbo Parts List*
_This is a list that may change at any time as I currently am still researching parts and obviously with turbo there are other routes you can take - im adding this here because i have come across a few things that I learned i needed for this build_
- 38mm External Waste Gate (1 BAR Spring)
- 2x38mm Wastegate gaskets (in talking to a number of people these will probably blow out so dont even bother)
- 38mm wastegate flange (ull need this for your downpipe)
- 16V Turbo Exhaust Manifold (Check the classifieds)
- Garrett T3/T4 57 Trim
- t3 Turbo exhuast Flange (ull need this for the custom exhuast)
- Assorted piping for exhaust and wastegate and intercooler (I bought a number of UJ Bends)
- MKV 2.5L Ignition Coils (Part# 07K 905 715 F)
- 1.8T (late model MKIV) ECU
- 1.8T (Late model MKIV) Wiring Harness
Wiseco 16V Pistons (You can use the stock ones but i decided to get these they didnt need to be trimmed)
- T3 Oil Inlet and Return Flanges (With Gaskets)
- 1.8T Oil Return Line
- 1.8T Clutch Kit (I bought this one from fourseasonstuning.com http://www.fourseasontuning.com/?product=595)
- Rear Main Seal (I bought one I figured if im going to be in there i might aswell change it) 
*Tools List*
- Engine Lift and/or Car Jacks and Jackstands
- 1/2" "T" or "L" shaped Allen Key
- Metric Allen Key Set
- Large Socket Set
- Torque Wrench
- Impact Gun (although you dont need it is does make somethings easier)
- Small Punch
- Hammer
- Vise Grips
- Spot Welder
- Flat Head Screw Driver
- Scissors and/or Xacto Knife
- Hacksaw
- Wrench Set (Youll need various size all the way up to 27mm for the oil filter housing)
- If you plan on painting your block and or tranny I would Highly recommend an Engine paint kit for POR15 (Google it there is a canadian and and american site)
_will expand this list when i start the build_
*Connecting Rod Install - Credit Jazzpur*
Before you start you should definitely watch these videos.... they are for a 1.8T but they contain a lot of useful information on honing your block..... i figured im in there... im doing it
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4375646
Starting out ....
The Three major parts of this install that looks to be the hardest are the Trigger Wheel install, The Intake TB Mounting, and the Side Coolant Flange
*The Trigger Wheel*
The Trigger Wheel install was the part that i most dredded before i did it.... mainly because i was sure i would screw it up and it would cost me my arm..... after I got the trigger piece ordered which only cost me $13CDN i relaxed a little
To Install the Trigger wheel the easiest way is to disassemble the 16V distributer..... on the bottoms of the distributer youll see a little coil wrapped around the black piece I used a razorblade to get under it and then remove the coil..... youll notice underneather there is a little pin holding it on youll need a punch to get it out I had to put the black piece in a vise and then hammer the pin out it was pretty tight
After you remove the pinyou should be able to pull the post through the distributer...... watch the washers and gaskets in there.... youll need them in the right order when you put them back together
I took a shop towel and wrapped it around the post and placed it in a vise... then used a cutting wheel to remove the edges of the 16V Wheel
After that i took the 1.8T Trigger Wheel and Placed it over top to get the right fit and used a spot welder to get them together
Here are pictures of the final product

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reassemble in reverse
*The Side Coolant Flange*
This one was a little Worrisome because I was originally going to use elRey's design but i was quoted $300 bucks for this one piece so i decided to try something else.....
I used the Original Piece from the 16V cut it down like the picture below and welded on the custom plate I made for it myself for free

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The Custom Plate really wasnt that Hard I borrowed a coolant flange from the dealer (I loaned them my $30 bucks) and got a piece of scrap aluminum from a metal shop for free
All you need to do is mark the line around the MKIV flange and then cut it out with whatever you got i used a cutting wheel...... then mark the holes and drill them out..... then if you have access to some BIG ASS bits you can drill the hole out to match the one in the old 16V one... I used a small bit and then used a dremel to get it close...... once i got it welded up I went back with the dremel and opened it up a little more
after you get this plate made now is the perfect op to go to Home Depot with the MKIV Flange and get yourself 2 Nuts 2 Bolts and 2 Washers (I dont know if i needed them but it cant hurt)
Here are pictures of my Final Product

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* Throttle Body Custom Adaptor *
I ordered myself one of the 3" MKII Throttle Body Flanges from Bahn Brenner (Link Above in the Parts) I dont have much information on this yet but my intention is to take the custom MKIV 2L TB Plate im making and get it welded to the 3" BBM Flange and then mount my TB to that.... im going to have to test fit the parts together when i get them and check clearances to see if i need a bent or not..... but ill keep it posted in here
*Pistons (Machining)*
I give credit to elRey for the image in this section i didnt have a 5th 16v piston to do a comparison of all three but he did so here is his information for this section
The pistions had to be machined a bit to clear the oil squiters to be fair i didnt know what i was looking for when i first did the machining and i missed the cutout make sure you take a close look at the middle piston you not only have to machine it down to the same height as the MKIV 2L piston but you also have to cut that little notch out like you see on the left side of the middle piston
I highly recommend that you have 1 MKIV 2L piston available if you want to do this work prior to tearing apart your engine
AZG(AEG/BEV/BBW) - modified 9A - stock 9A

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Like i noted above i forgot that little notch i didnt notice it when i first looked at the picture so i had to take my pistons back to the machine shop to get that part cut out








the problem was i didnt know looking at the 16V pistons where to put the notch so i took the MKIV piston to the dealer and found out which direction the piston went in and made note of where the cutout on the MKIV piston was and that location is the front of the engine take note of the pistons in the picture below the red dots are the corners that you need to make the cutout for the oil squirters
make note of where the cutouts are on the top of the pistons in relation to the dots and youll be set

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*Removing and Installing Digi Injector Seats*
As I was warned by a friend of mine taking out the old injector seats in not a fun and easy job......originally I thought a set of clamps on them would be able to loosen them.... no worky... you need a rather large and hard to find 1/2 Allen Key to complete the job either that or a VW specialty tool
Once they are out if you have the chance to sand blast your intake now would be a good time to get all the crud out that builds up in the threads and gaps....
I cant remember size to put the new seats on but it was a much smaller size you should have in any normal allen key set
NOTE: 1" allen key sockets are too short for this you will need the "L" or "T" Shaped ones
Pictures of the final product

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*Rebuilding the Head*
Considering that you are taking the time do do this install you might aswell replace everything you can in the head
I was going to do this part myself but after realising i didnt have all the tools I just decided to let the local vw shop do it for me......
youll want to have valve guide and valve seals..... you may need new lifters and if your planning boost later now would be a good time to put in the heavy duty valve springs
I paid a local shop $100 bucks to replace the guides and seals and put the head back together for me in my eyes well worth it for the aggravation and the cost to buy tools i would have needed

*Preparing the Engine Bay by combining some vacuum lines*
On the Suggestion of elRey I did a little house keeping in my engine bay..... one part I did today the other part to the other side of the engine including the PCV I will detail when I do the swap it only makes sense to wait until I get the new valve cover and PCV on before i start testing new hoses
If you Followed the parts required from the top grab your 3/4" "T" Coupler and your 3/8" Heater Hose. Cut about 3 inches off the heater hose and connect your lines like the picture below

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Using the Diagram from below i labels the different locations for the hoses..... for timid people this may help so you know where everything goes (Use Hose Clamps where required)
The Before picture show what you have now
1 - Connection to Plastic Vacuum Tube (To Disconnect - One the top of the connector there is a white button push on it and pull up on the connector)
2 - The is where the EVAP Line goes in the the connector (3) which goes under the Intake and to the TB
3 - connector which goes under the Intake and to the TB
4 - other end of Hose coming from the vacuum line

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If you are doing your 16V swap right now you are done
If not you will need to block off the open vacuum port on the side of your intake
I used a 3/16" Vacuum plug that i picked up at Canadian Tire (AutoZone) and poped that one there

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*Keep watching for more information*

_Modified by duke_seb at 11:10 AM 6-13-2009_

_Modified by duke_seb at 8:11 PM 8-23-2009_

_Modified by duke_seb at 7:10 PM 11-14-2009_

_Modified by duke_seb at 7:52 PM 11-18-2009_

_Modified by duke_seb at 1:24 PM 12-6-2009_

_Modified by duke_seb at 6:40 PM 3-5-2010_


_Modified by duke_seb at 6:57 PM 3-5-2010_


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## jazzpur (Dec 27, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

good luck!
hell of a project


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

Great job. Wish I had access to a spot welder when I did my trigger wheel. 
Also, if you have an AEG, you don't have to worry about oil squirters. But I'm not sure if the piston skirts still need shortening.
_edit:_ I just realized you 'used' to have an AEG. Ignore the above statement.
BTW, it's *elRey* instead of elredy/edredy










_Modified by elRey at 11:58 AM 5-31-2009_


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elRey* »_
Also, if you have an AEG, you don't have to worry about oil squirters. But I'm not sure if the piston skirts still need shortening.
_edit:_ I just realized you 'used' to have an AEG. Ignore the above statement.


say wah? I have a BEV i just followed your picture and trimmed down the 9A Pistons so they would be the same height as the AEG one that someone loaned me


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

got me hone today


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## Shifty (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

NICE write up so far man. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
We need to keep in contact as both our motors come together. I'm sure we'll need each other's help at varying points.


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (Shifty)*

no doubt.... ill be starting the build in about 1-2 weeks time.... im just waiting on a fuel rail and i think i may have sourced out another scirocco 16V manifold....... the last one i bought on vortex soon as i paid the guy disapeared..... im in a claim for it right now
found a local one hopefully that will pan out
the rest of my head is all built.... i do still need to make a block off plate for the side of the lower intake piece and for the front coolant port on the block


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## brosef (Mar 10, 2008)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

Is it a 1.8L head? If so, how come you didn't choose the 2.0L?


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (brosef)*


_Quote, originally posted by *brosef* »_Is it a 1.8L head? If so, how come you didn't choose the 2.0L?

it is a 1.8L head..... I just chose what i could find.....aparently though the 1.8L head is better, I think someone told me it has biger intake ports or something.... i dunno?


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## brosef (Mar 10, 2008)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_
it is a 1.8L head..... I just chose what i could find.....aparently though the 1.8L head is better, I think someone told me it has biger intake ports or something.... i dunno?

Ah, well the 2.0 has bigger exhaust ports, so if you're going turbo, it may be a little better. I was just wondering, as I'm about to do the same swap, and trying to choose between the 1.8 or 2.0 head... But hope to see more pictures, sir http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

Some updates got my machined pistons back and my custom TB piece
plan is to weld the custom TB Piece to the BBM 3" MKII TB Adaptor.... im still waiting on that piece
I also got my 16V scirocco intake in the mail today.... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif did some sandblasting to clean it up a little more


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_










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I don't see notches in the piston skirts to clear the oil squirters.


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*

man you ruin my party everytime you come into my thread...lol
aaargh
ok i have on question for you then..... you know how on the top you have the little half moon cutouts.....is the cut for the oir squirters on that side of the piston or the other side


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

ok got the pistons cut.... properly this time
but I also got the Throttlebody adaptor made today...... its not perfect obviously but until i come up with a cleaner solution it will work for now
here are some pics






















oh and here is what i woke up to this morning

















_Modified by duke_seb at 10:31 PM 6-23-2009_


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

here are some updated pictures of the mock up with the custom TB plate..... i put my old MKIII TB on it for show..... looks pretty good to me.... let me know what oyu think


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## glibobbo21 (Nov 11, 2002)

i think thats a horrible transition...


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (glibobbo21)*

its not finished I still have work to do on it but i wanted to show the welds...... I actually have something better planned for this swap...... but i am waiting for the part to come in..... im going to cut off the inner parts that seperate when there two butterflies are in a few days that should help a little.....but it will serve its purpose until i get my other parts


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: (duke_seb)*

waterjet cut profile and some one-on-one time with files








http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...66572


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (elRey)*

thats cool im this is only my stop gap.... I got it welded for free....
i am waiting for this piece to come in so i can manifacture something


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## Shifty (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

Got that trigger wheel part #?


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (Shifty)*

I'll have to look but I think my wife tossed the empty bag on me that's why it's not at the beginning of the post ..... If u go to the dealer ask to see the diagram of the cps and you will see it right away it's like 10 bucks


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## Shifty (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_I'll have to look but I think my wife tossed the empty bag on me that's why it's not at the beginning of the post ..... If u go to the dealer ask to see the diagram of the cps and you will see it right away it's like 10 bucks

Roger that, thanks man. Trying to scrounge the last few items for ours before assembling next week!


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (Shifty)*

starting the build in one week..... lots of pictures and lots of info to follow.... I just have to wait for my rods to be tested to find out if they are ok.....
last set was bent on me








all i need now is the rods and bolts for the motormount


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## skidmarkus (Sep 20, 2007)

bahn brenner or someone should just fab up components for this and sell it as a kit like they do for the ABA. Any word on them planning on doing this?


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

alright guys ive decided after lots of pain in the ass parts that ive had to deal with that im going to run all new parts for this swap and I have also decided that im going to go turbo.... I think if im going to do this swap at this point after invest about 2K into it that I should have something a little faster then just a 16V..... sooooo
If anyone is planning on doing this swap I have a set of 2L 16V pistons and Rods that I can ship out to you
they are already ready to go in the car
I would like $250 for them thats what they cost to buy and to get machined


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

edit


_Modified by duke_seb at 9:21 PM 8-31-2009_


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## Bora Jon (May 31, 2007)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

looking good. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif keep up the good work

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## Shifty (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

Wow turbo eh? I wish you would have decided all this a few weeks ago, I'd have bought the rods and pistons from you for sure!








Good luck man, I'm anxious for ya! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (Shifty)*

well I got a little more scratch this week so i picked up my Turbo Manifold......
in a couple weeks ill be picking up all the Turbo Gear and Intercooler and stuff
Oh yea forgot all the intercooler and BOV that i picked up after looking at it i decided to pick my stuff from another source.....
ill have pictures soon


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

opps forgot pictures of the Manifold
here you go


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

more stuff


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## sauron18 (Apr 11, 2009)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

Nice keep it up, i am thinking of doing this head swap to, in a couple of month i will start getting all the parts to do it.


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## sauron18 (Apr 11, 2009)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (sauron18)*

Got a question how can u use the piston from the 2.0 with the 1.8?


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (sauron18)*

explain to me why your asking me this..... what are you driving now?


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## sauron18 (Apr 11, 2009)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

Golf mk4 2.0.
i am asking because i will do the swap to.
In september i will begin to order the parts.
In my country the PL is more common than the 9A and so i would like to know if the 9A piston will fit in the PL.


_Modified by sauron18 at 9:09 PM 8-20-2009_


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## vwpat (Oct 25, 2000)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (sauron18)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sauron18* »_Golf mk4 2.0.
i am asking because i will do the swap to.
In september i will begin to order the parts.
In my country the PL is more common than the 9A and so i would like to know if the 9A piston will fit in the PL.

_Modified by sauron18 at 9:09 PM 8-20-2009_
It will fit if you bore the block to 82,5 mm and use the 9A crank. You will also have to clearance the intermediate shaft and possibly the block due to the longer stroke.


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (vwpat)*

If I'm reading this right I think what he is asking is if he can make 1.8l pistons and rods work on his aeg because he can't find 2l ones..... His block is already a 2l...... Oh and on the mkiv u don't need to worry about the intermediate shaft
I have a set of pistons and rods for this swap already cut let me know if u want them I'm going turbo and don't need them ..... This would solve your not finding them issue


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## vwpat (Oct 25, 2000)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

that was what I originally thought and would make more sense but this made me think otherwise: "In my country the PL is more common than the 9A and so i would like to know *if the 9A piston will fit in the PL*."


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## sauron18 (Apr 11, 2009)

vwpat got it...
I did some research and the 9A it is not popular here in my country.
I will have more chance to get a PL.
So i wanted to confirm that i can use the 9A pistons with a PL.


_Modified by sauron18 at 7:47 AM 8-21-2009_


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: (sauron18)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sauron18* »_vwpat got it...
I did some research and the 9A it is not popular here in my country.
I will have more chance to get a PL.
So i wanted to confirm that i can use the 9A pistons with a PL.


Than real question for you is why not put the 9A pistons in your current MK4 block? Which is what this thread is about.


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## sauron18 (Apr 11, 2009)

i am planning to get the PL head and use the 9A pistons yes, i asked just to be sure...i was confused


_Modified by sauron18 at 9:52 AM 8-21-2009_


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (elRey)*

Thank you... I'm still trying to figure out what's going on


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (sauron18)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sauron18* »_i am planning to get the PL head and use the 9A pistons yes, i asked just to be sure...i was confused

_Modified by sauron18 at 9:52 AM 8-21-2009_

now I'm even more confused


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (sauron18)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sauron18* »_Golf mk4 2.0.
i am asking because i will do the swap to.
In september i will begin to order the parts.
In my country the PL is more common than the 9A and so i would like to know if the 9A piston will fit in the PL.

_Modified by sauron18 at 9:09 PM 8-20-2009_

Ok here is some information for you
-You can use the head from either a 1.8 or a 2.0L 16V no issues there
-you already have a 2.0L bottom end in your MKIV so you need to be looking for 9A pistons..... PL ones wont work for you
-read the whole first part of this thread and see what is involved in this swap.... and be sure you want to do....this may be more then you want to do


----------



## sauron18 (Apr 11, 2009)

A guy is selling me the PL complete(everything) for 414 bucks and he told me the engine is imported and it is like new, with low km.
And he has the 9A complete to, but he sell it for parts only because he is not sure how well is the engine.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (sauron18)*

swapping a PL into your MKIV is going to be more work then finding 9A pistons


----------



## sauron18 (Apr 11, 2009)

Yes i know.
So i can get the PL and the 9A pistons or get the complete top of the 9A and the parts to do the swap.
I will call him again this monday to know how much for the complete top of the 9A or half motor.


_Modified by sauron18 at 3:13 PM 8-22-2009_


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

well I picked up a few new things in the last couple days..... havent got them yet but here is a sneak peak
One of these - Thanks RabbitMan








a couple of these
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAP...73358
4 of these
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAP...10392
4 of these
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAP...12778
1 of these for the custom downpipe.... almost forgot about this
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAP...77462
and this
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAP...49683
and this
http://www.intengineering.com/....html
I also and picking up one of these this week
http://www.cimotorsports.net/m....html
more to follow soon... hoping to have this built buy mid september


_Modified by duke_seb at 12:04 PM 8-24-2009_


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

still watching. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*

keep watching your IM's ill be asking you this weekend about the wiring im getting my wires this weekend


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

got some parts today..... some more on the way next week...... 
Got all my gauges today and all the senders... picked up a 42DD oil filter port..... and a few other things








heres all the piping.... the intercoolers still in my car ill post pictures later








a 1.8T Engine Wiring Harness, Oil Line, 1.8T Hybrid Oil Pan and 1.8T intake (more to follow on this.... planning on cutting to work with my 16V intake)


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

did a little work today....
got my gauges all wired in... thanks RabbitMan for some help....waiting to get the new engine in before i mess around with the senders but here is what it looks like all ready to go








I was planning on welding the 1.8T intake manifold to the 16V one but after a lot of thought I gave up on that as i wasnt sure I would have the clearance to be able to mount it the way i wanted and be able to keep the fuel rail the way i wanted too....
so i decided to work with the 16V intake afterall... I drilled and tapped the holes for the AIT sensor


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

Ordered some new stuff








http://www.intengineering.com/....html
and picked up a a full set of brembo rotors and pads to go in at the same time as the engine work


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

ordered my 2.5" catback and hiflow cat late last week..... I ordered a TT aluminized w/flowmaster.... I had this on my MKIII and I loved the sound of it so i chose it again over the magnaflow and got my flexpipe for the downpipe when i go to make it








http://www.techtonicstuning.co...460TF
Also received part of my clutch kit from fourseasonstuning here on vortex.... so far everthing looks good.... still waiting on my flywheel and main seal and all the bolts for the job








oh and one last thing on order is a set of dubtechnik 20th side skirts.... soon as i get a little more scrap im going to pick up a used rear valance.... but this turbo build seems to be taking all my money
I did decide on what im getting for a AF Gauge..... Innovate Motorsports has a cool iPhone based one.... im hoping it will be ready when i have my build done...... but ill do my testing on a vag com until it gets here


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

alright got some more pictures.... had to get the bolts to mount the turbo.... 
got my fittings and oil line.... not sure i like the fitting that is going into the turbo i may order a bolt on one that i can screw onto
























Also got my pistons yesterday forgot to post them up.... i cant believe how light they are they weigh what feels like 1/4 of the weight of OE 16V pistons.... 8O


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (sauron18)*

new stuff..... circlips were a bitch but they are all in now....


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

How was lunch? Did Dora keep it warm for you?
Good work!


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*

haha.... dora keeps popping into my build threads.... i have another picture in here somewhere with a dora couch in the back......
thats actually my daughters crayon box...


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

hey rey do you see a problem with getting my oil feed from the back of the head or should i get it from the oil filter flange?


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

I and others get oil from the back of the head. There is debate whether or not a restrictor is needed.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*

you going to respond to my email or IM?


----------



## Driverwanted (Nov 9, 2002)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

Longest Post by Duke Seb, without getting flamed... ftw.
Seriously - lot of great work and info in here Duke - keep it up, i look forward to seeing the finished product.


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (Driverwanted)*

Do you have a returnless fuel system? (no FPR on fuel rail)


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*

Yup.... It's actually a little anoying I can't find a good bolt to fill the other end..... I'm thinking about getting it welded shut


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

Do you even know if the fuel system will raise fuel pressure to compensate for positive manifold pressure (boost)?
In a return system, a manifold pressure signal is fed to the FPR. So, when mainfold pressure goes positive (in boost) , the FPR uses the signal to raise fuel pressure by the same amount.
You may have to convert to a return fuel system, or at the very least use an inline pump and run a return line from fuel rail back to gas tank and run a fpr.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*

There is a return it's in the take


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

but no manifold pressure signal to fpr.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (sauron18)*

Ok so got my new car all registered and insured so i decided today would be the day I would start my build
so I started but taking out the exhuast... that wasnt to bad..... Im assuming that when the dealer puts on a new system they must take out the trailing arm or something.... I have to make a cut to get her apart..... didnt feel like ****ing around with that
well here are some project pictures ill have more tomorrow


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

alright back on topic...... got some more done today....
got all the wiring and pluming and what not detached from the motor..... the AC was a bit of a bitch until I figured out what I had to do to get it out of the way....... those of you that have dealt with it prbobably have had a few words to say about it..... that stupid little spacer piece at the top of the AC compressor...... its in the perfect bloody spot to block the one remaining bolt to take the whole friggen assembly off...... but it really wasnt that bad all the bolts were freed fairly easy
That stupid tensioner... I hate that thing.... I dont know how im going to put it back on... but the three bolts to take it out were easy enough..... y coudnt vw keep that thing the same as the MKIII all you needed was a big pry bar
anyway here are the pictures...... I still need to undo the mounts ..... take out the axle bolts and get the o2 sensor wire that is stuck behind the heat shield


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

So I got the motor out tonight... took a little longer then expected and I ran into a few stupid problems but nothing major
I forgot about the bolt holding the power steering line to the bottom of the tranny..... and I already had the whole rest of the motor detatched... rather then lay in coolant I just decided to cut the rubber and deal with that later
here are some pictures


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

made a bunch of progress today..... got the tranny and flywheel off... pulled the head off and as many other parts off as I could get....
used a scrubby to take off the reminents of the head gasket.... still some work to do there
Need to get the oil filter housing off tomorrow..... then the block is getting cleaned up and sprayed......
hoping to get here sprayed, honed and some of the parts back on her tomorrow
wish i had more time today was really getting into this build.....
some pictures of her today


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (sauron18)*

I got most of what i want to accomplished although i will have to go back and retorque the rod bolts....
I do plan on painting the block but I think Im going to wait until I get the head back on to do it
Speaking of that I had all the best intentions of putting the head back on today but that didnt go as planned. Aparently the MKIV 2L 8V head gasket is a little different from the 2L 16V one..... VW Decided to include 3 extra port on the back of the block on the MKIV not necessary to the 16V or for that matter the 8V head..... they are just there.....
problem is that the 16V head gasket pretends they dont exist and the MKIV 8V headgasket blocks them off.......
here is a couple pictures to show what I mean
*Side by side*








*Stacked*_16V on top of 8V_








For those that dont know what an oil squirter looks like here is a picture.... I wasnt sure until I saw it..... all I knew was that I shouldnt break it off or plug it..... and that I needed my pistons to clear it (And they do)








One after I honed out the block... had to stuff rags down the cylinders to keep out the shavings that may have come off the walls didnt want them on the crank or the oil squiters








And one with some go fast parts in








I intend on having the head back on tomorrow assuming I can get the 8V head gasket from the dealer


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

ok so im leaving the country for a few weeks so my goal today was to get the head back together with the block to get her sealed
well ran into a couple problems but I have her atleast back together but ill have to take her apart when i get back
picture with the head gasket on... this is where the fun stopped for a few minutes








I figured all would be ok when I put the head back on well the guide on the left rear of the block is bigger then the hole on the head.....








so I took a drill and bored it out a little bit and filed down the edges








and then I thought that solved all the problems.... nope
turns out the metal coolant pipe that wraps itself around the block sits just high enough to interfere with the side of the head right below where the coolant flange is on the head








once I disconnected that pipe everything went kosher...
well until I over did something....
When I read oil the bolts before putting them in... I didnt realise I was supposed to oil them liberally.....well I learned why...... when I was finger tightening the bolts I could see a little oil coming out from between the headgasket and the block.......
so thats how she sits right now until I get back....to be safe ill probably pick up another head gasket when I get back 
here are a couple pictures of her right now bolted up


----------



## ihavenoideax2 (Apr 12, 2008)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

Interesting.

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (sauron18)*

sorry for the long delays in updates... its not because i dont want to .... its because im out of the country....
im in scotland right now..... picking up some euro parts to bring back.....
but ill have some more updates in about 2 weeks


----------



## ihavenoideax2 (Apr 12, 2008)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

Get me a euro Mk4 Bora trunk lid please?


----------



## Turbolader Du Idiot! (Jul 30, 2008)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (ihavenoideax2)*

Subscribed! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## andar (Oct 21, 2005)

very cool build up,
I've got a 2.0 as well and hope to be able to do something along these lines once I've got some cash flow.
just curious...what do you plan on/would like to see as far as power numbers once this is done? 
good luck with the rest of the build..I'll be watching :







:


----------



## Shifty (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (andar)*

I'm finishing up on mine as well! 
BTW, a 1.8T coolant pipe is needed to clear the head.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

Back from Scotland.... expect updates shortly


----------



## sp_golf (Nov 28, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Stay away from fiber gaskets with boost


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (sp_golf)*

not going to be a problem alread yhave a metal one


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

so i ordered some of this today
http://www.por15canada.com/can/enginepaint.asp
heard great things and up here in the great white north we get lots of rust


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

Ok got some work done today.... well rework actually..... when i put the block back together I dont know what i was thinking i thought the piston rings we pregapped.... I should have checked.... so i pulled the block apart again and gapped them and then plastigauged the rods just to be sure..... first 2 pistons in doing the next two tonight
hopefully i will have the POR15 in the next couple days so i can start painting


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

well I took her apart a couple days ago to check the ring gaps and do the plasticgauge......
took me a couple days but she is back together now with headbolts in..... I popped on a new rear main seal and new water pump
i have POR15 on its way to paint it...... 
starting to make some real progress here....
I took a wire wheel to the oil filter piece as you can see in the picture pretty shiny
here are some pictures


----------



## ihavenoideax2 (Apr 12, 2008)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

Cool. Different.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

POR15 ships fast got my supplies today.... should have some pictures tonight of the painted engine.... if i have time i may do the tranny tonight too
dont know yet


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

Well got a lot of work done today...... 
I primed the motor with POR15 primer early this morning then moved on to paint this afternoon.... the plan originally was to paint the bottom end black but they send me the wrong colour so i decided to go with it an make my accessories black and i really like how its turning out
Here is a picture of where i am at today....I got a little ahead of myself cuz i want to see what it would look like so the accessory bracket may have to come off but maybe now
ignore the oil pan.... I have a new one








I did run into a problem though..... due to this no being the right head for this block the cam sprocket and the tensioner are in about a quarter inch you can sort of see from the picture below I moved out the belt to show it all lined up
if elrey or shifty is still reading this thread can you give me an idea what you did? right now im using a 16V tensioner and a 16V Sprocket.....










_Modified by duke_seb at 10:17 PM 11-5-2009_


----------



## ihavenoideax2 (Apr 12, 2008)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

Looks nice.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (ihavenoideax2)*

Got some work done today... ran into a few weird problems ill be laying out in the first post....
Here is the picture of my progress I have a few parts waiting in paint to go on tomorrow.... and i have a cam gear that I need to pick up
I also was stupid and broke my dip stick tube.....










_Modified by duke_seb at 10:40 PM 11-6-2009_


----------



## Shifty (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_
I also was stupid and broke my dip stick tube.....










Then in that case every other VW owner is stupid too. There's a reason I call it "the Cheeto"... it just crumbles.








It's looking good bro. Hey how did you figure out what position to weld the trigger wheel to the distributor?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (Shifty)*

i didnt position the trigger wheel any particular way..... I figured the sensor would figure that out itself if it is an issue all ill have to do is pull the distributer out and then rotate it a little and put it back in....
im looking for another way right now to do this.... i hate that dizzy being there...... I pulled my 2L cam gear off and the sensor with it to see what it looks like..... i am picking up a 1.8T cam gear this weekend im going to take a look to see if there is any way to use one of them
if would be really nice if i can find a way to use the 2L one then all i will have to do is spot well the 2L sensor wheel to the back of the 1.8T cam gear and hopefully voila.....
maybe elrey can shed some light on whether I can use the 2L 8v sensor and wheel?


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

I explored all thoses options and opted for the 1.8T wheel on the dizzy. The head would need some material removed to fit the 2.0L hall sensor in place to read the 2.0L wheel tack weld on the back of the 1.8T can gear.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*

Hey Rey did u get my two emails I sent u a couple days ago?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

Got some work done today shes almost ready to go back in.... I was going to strip the engine bay but im busy from jan until mar so i wont have time and want my car back next year so ill so the striping out next year....... but here is a picture of her with the tranny back on


----------



## Shifty (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_i didnt position the trigger wheel any particular way..... I figured the sensor would figure that out itself if it is an issue all ill have to do is pull the distributer out and then rotate it a little and put it back in.... 

How will you know whether or not it's the trigger wheel position that's causing runability issues? Also, if it's too far off wouldn't that cause some potentially bad things to happen? I'm not being a smart ass, I really don't know. I've heard conflicting things. The guy helping me put my motor together is adamant that EVERYTHING is PERFECT on the trigger wheel alignment, but I tend to think it would make sense that if it's timed right and the trigger wheel was a little off you could just rotate the dizzy and fix it right? My only worry is we fire it up and something pops because the dizzy's outta whack.











_Modified by Shifty at 9:34 AM 11-13-2009_


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (Shifty)*

Having the cam position sensor misaligned will not break anything. Worst case is that the engine will not run. But the typical symptom of a bad CPS or misaligned CPS is that the car won't rev past ~3000RPM while driving.
When I first did the swap, I had a bad hall sensor that would stop working when it got heat soaked. It cut power at 3000 RPM.


_Modified by elRey at 11:09 AM 11-13-2009_


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*

Interesting Rey 
Shifty I figured that since the cam and the crank are held together by the belt it wouldn't make much difference mechanically I personally don't know how to align a CPs anyway anyone know?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

I also figured that the sensor would automatically figure out where it was based of the crank
but again if I have to align it any help would be appreciated


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

got some presents...... in case you cant make it out......Its 2.5"...


----------



## Shifty (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elRey* »_Having the cam position sensor misaligned will not break anything. Worst case is that the engine will not run. But the typical symptom of a bad CPS or misaligned CPS is that the car won't rev past ~3000RPM while driving.
When I first did the swap, I had a bad hall sensor that would stop working when it got heat soaked. It cut power at 3000 RPM.



This is what I needed to know! Thanks! 
Nice exhaust duke, what kit is it?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (Shifty)*

TT 2.5" with Flowmaster exhaust


----------



## skidmarkus (Sep 20, 2007)

if bahn brenner would fab up some parts and put together a 16v swap kit for mk4's id be all over it! keep up the good work


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (skidmarkus)*


_Quote, originally posted by *skidmarkus* »_if bahn brenner would fab up some parts and put together a 16v swap kit for mk4's id be all over it! keep up the good work

there is actually someone at INA Engineering that is working on it
read more here
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...age=1


----------



## booyacah (Mar 23, 2009)

*Re: (duke_seb)*

this is looking awesome man http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (booyacah)*

hey rey or shifty
if this the tensioner that i need?
is there a special way to put this on the head or anything? I have never had to deal with a dampener before does the head have a hole it it to accomodate it
http://www.germanautoparts.com...26/11


----------



## Shifty (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (duke_seb)*

No you'll need the 16v one. Like this:
http://www.worldimpex.com/part....html
PM replied BTW! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: (Shifty)*

I didn't consider the 1.8T hydraulic tensioner because I didn't have one on hand like I did for the 8v and 16v and because of the price.
BUT looking at some pictures online, It 'may' be possible to use it. You won't know unless you try it.


_Modified by elRey at 10:17 PM 11-15-2009_


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (elRey)*

didnt you suggest to me somewhere that i can use it?
i guess ill have to pick the stuff up tomorrow and check to see if it will work


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (duke_seb)*

from what i can tell looking in the bentley i think it may just work... I took a look at one of the tensioners yesterday and it does stick out a good half inch further then the 16V one which if about what i noticed when i tried putting spacers behind the 16V tensioner to line it up
the only thing i dont know for sure right now is if the 2L block has the 1.8T lower dampener hole i assume it would considering they are the same block just bored out
from looking at my pictures i do have the upper hole so let us pray... ill let everyone know tomorrow..... the price for the dampener and tensioner arent that bad i priced them out at about 100 bucks for them both, certainly cheaper then making a custom spacer that might not work right


----------



## 6a2.0digi2 (May 16, 2009)

hi, found this thread and wondered what output you where expecting to get with this combination, 
did a 16v digi2 conversion in july 2008 as phase1 progressing hopefully to a 16v eaton at some time, considering a turbo, had thoughts about using 1.8T ecu and wiring as a possibility then forgot about the thought then remembered about it when i found your build, 
what ecu and wiring would you be using and do you think this is a possibility with the mk2 fuse box


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

Ok so i got some big work done today..... some rreally important work actually....
I finally sorted out my issue with using plugs and wires and instead am using coil packs now.....
I had to do some major trimming to get the coils to get all the way down but they are snug in there... I think ill look for an oring or something to try and seal the holes a little more but they are in there good
here are the stages of the trim








1. You have to use and exacto knife and shave all rubber off the coil all the way up to the top indent (comes off easy)
2. You get a hack saw and you cut the plastic that is underneath until you get to the metal and then you pull that off (wasnt that hard)
Next thing i got was my oil return line back.... strictly hydraulics in dartmouth made it up for me i would highly recommend then they have done a few lines for me im getting them to make up all my braided stuff








Also got my TB mounted (ignore the hoses I just threw them on there so i didnt loose them








I think im going to look at attaching the CPS from a 1.8T right onto the cam gear if possible...... then block off the dizzy side..... I have to get access to a 1.8T head with some parts on it and i might be able to..... I dont know yet
ill keep you all posted


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (6a2.0digi2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *6a2.0digi2* »_hi, found this thread and wondered what output you where expecting to get with this combination, 
did a 16v digi2 conversion in july 2008 as phase1 progressing hopefully to a 16v eaton at some time, considering a turbo, had thoughts about using 1.8T ecu and wiring as a possibility then forgot about the thought then remembered about it when i found your build, 
what ecu and wiring would you be using and do you think this is a possibility with the mk2 fuse box 

Im hoping for around 300HP 280-300TQ ish
as for your question I would go standalone if i were you...... if i had to do over again my whole build I think i woud have done a 20V head so i could use the 2L block and all 1.8T stuff.... for you to use the 1.8T harness youll have a lot of extra things that you wont need the 1.8T ECU is going to go crazy and i doubt youd be able to use the MKII fuse box....
if you want more power out of your car eithr do standalone or find yourself a complete 1.8T and do a swap


----------



## Shifty (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*









Looking good bro, nice progress!!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 6a2.0digi2 (May 16, 2009)

*Re: (duke_seb)*

1.8t conversions out the question, and so is standalone
the reason your thread stood out to me was the title mkiv 16vt, i fully expected to read that you where using standalone bt then i read that you where using( 1.8T (late model) ECU 1.8T (Late model) Wiring Harness) this is the bit that got really interested as all other threads on 16vt are either standalone or digi1 
digi1 wld be easy change ecu and wiring and all assosiated intake plumbing
the idea of using an easily remappable 20vt ecu and wiring is so appeling tht i think thts why i had the thought so many month ago, i admit that i know shi* about 20vt's apart from tht they have 20valves and the 180bhp versions have trouble keepin up with the 6a 2liter port&polished gti cam'd 16v 
anyway obviously theres more to your swap than swappin over a dizzy trigger wheel, what sensors does the ecu read from other than the lamda, map and tb sensors
does your block alread have a crank trigger (id have to get one if you do)does 20vt use cam position sensor etc
clocks and immobilisers no probs, can get it deleted when its remapped
cheers


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (6a2.0digi2)*

think of it this way this is what i remembered through the whole build
both the 1.8T and the 2L blocks are the same just bored different...... so if I replaced everything with 1.8T parts I can trick the ECU into thinking the car is a 1.8T
thats why im dealing coil packs and the 1.8T ECU and the complete 1.8T wiring....
im still looking for a better mount for the CPS...... I want to use the whole sensor somehow soon as i get to see the whole assembly I man finda way to mount it on the cam sprocket then everything will run the same way and all the plugs will fit and hopefully it will run like a champ


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: (duke_seb)*

How did the 1.8T hydraulic tensioner work out?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (elRey)*

Not sure yet..... I haven't got my hands on one yet ..... But believe me I'll post if I do I'm also considering getting a tensioners spacer made up for the 16v tensioners.... Something that would cup the back so it can't shift like it might on washers
my concern right now is the CPS i'm getting a whole 1.8t assembly this weekend aswell I'm going to see if there is any way at all to fabricate comthibg else who know


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (duke_seb)*

Got some work done today.... started by pulling the 2L harness out of the car.... actually easier then i thought but I still a paint to get under the cowl...... can someone tell me if there is an easy way to get the thing off I stuck my arms underneath it and pulled the connectors out... would have been a lot better if i could have found a way to get it off
Next step was to put the 1.8T wiring harness onto the motor.... I thought for a while the easiest thing to do would be put it in the car first but after some of the stupid things i ran into im definitely glad i did the harness in the motor first
Everything worked out good I had to lengthen the line for the AIT sensor..... I also had to swap connectors for the connector on the oil filter flange see the difference...... 








for those that dont know how to swap the connectors between the harnesses is a matter of looking inside the connector and pulling out the purple piece of plastic then just yank out the wire from the back......
I got everything all plugged in but im not sure what some of the connectors are for.... im sure they are things not on my 2L ..... im hoping the elrey might be able to help me out with these
Im assuming the connector in the middle is for the CPS sensor but the one on the left and the one above the CPS... im not sure what they are








and on this side the connector that is dangling on the left








I also mounted my manual boost controller








I came across a 1.8T coil pack the other day now i realise y you cant use the 1.8T packs with this set up as they are too short


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (duke_seb)*

The red circles are the ones i need to know for sure


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: (duke_seb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_
Im assuming the connector in the middle is for the CPS sensor but the one on the left and the one above the CPS... im not sure what they are









top middle = knock sensor 1
lower left = throttle body
lower right = CPS


_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_and on this side the connector that is dangling on the left









if you're talking about the one on the far left near your broken oil dipstick funnel, I can't tell where it's coming from. Maybe SAI kombi valve solenoid (N112). The ones in the lower center of the pic:
Gray = Crank Position Sensor
lower middle = DV N249
lower right = oil pressure


_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_I came across a 1.8T coil pack the other day now i realise y you cant use the 1.8T packs with this set up as they are too short









I thought we had a conversation about which COPs are usable?
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2368051 


_Modified by elRey at 10:50 PM 11-20-2009_


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: (duke_seb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_The red circles are the ones i need to know for sure









from left to right:
TB
CPS
knock 1
RPM/crank position
oil pressure
knock 2 
VSS
and one you missed right above VVT: ECT
Is this harness from an automatic? I don't see a reverse light connector.
nevermind, it won't have the VSS is it was an auto harness.
*edit* 


_Modified by elRey at 10:51 PM 11-20-2009_


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (elRey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elRey* »_
I thought we had a conversation about which COPs are usable?
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2368051 

I believe we did and you suggested 2.5L MKV ones.....
with the trimming they fit perfect
am i missing something?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (elRey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elRey* »_

Is this harness from an automatic? I don't see a reverse light connector.
]

i dont know i was sure it was from a stick... I could be wrong though


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: (duke_seb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_am i missing something?

Nah, I thought I mentioned 1.8T COPs were too short.
I edited my above posts with more concise info.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (elRey)*

I was wondering about the reverse indicator too....... I actually had the the knock sensor plug plugged into that for a little bit cuz it fit the same....... from what i can tell i dont have any more plugs for the reverse


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (duke_seb)*

the ones above the VVT i plugged into the collant temp sensor


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: (duke_seb)*

ECT = Engine Coolant Temp http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: (duke_seb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_I was wondering about the reverse indicator too....... I actually had the the knock sensor plug plugged into that for a little bit cuz it fit the same....... from what i can tell i dont have any more plugs for the reverse

Do you have a multimeter?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (elRey)*

i hve access to one.... dont know how to use it though


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (duke_seb)*

could the one right under the number N249 be the reverse?
im wondering if its part of the harness still left in the car....


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: (duke_seb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_could the one right under the number N249 be the reverse?
im wondering if its part of the harness still left in the car....

I believe it is on the other harness. So, you're good.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (elRey)*

geez rey dont freak me out like that....lol
ok this is good .... so i have to lengthen the TB line and maybe the line for the MAP sensor....
then i get to move on to coolant lines...... I really should have labelled these cuz i dont remember for the life of me where they all came from.... same as the vacuum lines
got my ECU and cam gear and tensioner and damper coming sunday so i can get the timing going
hey rey do i need the N75 while running external or the N249 which i dont even know what if does? ... and N206 is the SAI right?


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: (duke_seb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_hey rey do i need the N75 while running external or the N249 which i dont even know what if does? ... and N206 is the SAI right?

No, you do not need the N75 or N249 (DV). You can run a mbc instead of the n75 and just run the DV straight to a vacuum line from intake mani.
N206 = VVT Variable Valve Timing which you do not have.
*Now*, you will need to put resistors in place of those solenoids for you ECU to adjust/save fuel trims.
What's software are you running?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (elRey)*

ill be running unitronic 630cc file
im going to get the SAI deleted
what is this MBC?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (duke_seb)*

ah little google figured it out.... Manual boost controller...... go figure i got one..... mounted the side of the head


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (sauron18)*

So i need to Run resistors in the following connectors
N75
N249
N206
SAI
does 1W 330ohm sound good to you?


----------



## ihavenoideax2 (Apr 12, 2008)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

That is usually what is run in them. I don't know if it is completely overkill to use them since they are huge but they still should work. If your getting the SAI deleted, you shouldn't need them for the N249 and the N112 valve. See if before you get it in the car, if uni will just delete all of it since you wont need the resisters in it.
Does that make any sense since I am half asleep.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (ihavenoideax2)*

which is N112... SAI?


----------



## ihavenoideax2 (Apr 12, 2008)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

Yea, its the solenoid right next to the N249 valve. Its the combovalve controller for the SAI system.


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (ihavenoideax2)*

even with deletes you need to run resistors for the fuel trims to work correctly. The deletes only handle the DTC and CEL.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*

yea i read that in another forum too........
so i just get the resistors from radio shack and the plug them into the extra wires on the harness
sounds easy enough


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

Ok a couple things to report
I got my hands on a 1.8t tensioners and damper so I attempted to use that but with them I found the Lexus belt was too short I would say by about 4 teeth I'm looking into another belt to see if I can make it work... I like the tensioners system better on the 1.8t so I would rather use it if I can..... I also noticed that the 1.8t tensioners is a little skinnier then the 16v one the Lexus belt doesn't quite fit just a but to big
here is a picture of the belt in both setups


















_Modified by duke_seb at 8:36 PM 11-24-2009_


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

what about a 1.8T t-belt?
I didn;t realize converting to a mechanical tensioner required a different belt on the 20v.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*

I thought the reason behind the Lexus belt was cuz it was longer?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (duke_seb)*

Alright kind of a piss off now that I spent $80 on it but the gs300 timing belt only wold with the 16v tensioners spaced out it's 144 teeth
the 1.8t one is 150 teeth..... Which work right into how many I thought I was short
so my intension is to run the 1.8t belt with the 1.8t tensioners and damper...... I'll post pictures after I get it together


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: (duke_seb)*

You spent $80 on a t-belt????????????????


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (elRey)*

The gs300 was $80cdn incuding taxes


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: (duke_seb)*

From where ? A Lexuz dealership?
If you didn't run it, you should check to see if you can return it.
$23 from the local autoparts store here.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (elRey)*

Already tried ..... Once u take it out of celephane they won't take it back....
Is there a difference between a 1.8t and 2.0 cam geear other then the spacing... I want to pick up the belt right now but I want to be sure that if I fit it it's not going to change


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: (duke_seb)*

the key is different


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (elRey)*

And what do I do about that?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (elRey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elRey* »_the key is different
What do I need to do with that anything special?
When u say key I'm assuming ur talking about the opening on the inside of the sprocket that lines up the gear to the camshaft correctly?
What is the difference? I don't have one infrobt of me so I don't know the diff..... I'm assuming ur using one so it can't be that hard to manufacture it


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*

ok well I got everything sorted out right now except the CPS sensor (which I really want to try and find another way to mount), I need a Cam gear, 1.8T timing belt, and I need to figure out the vacuum and coolant lines......
hope someone in this thread can tell me where some of these lines go
The one that goes around the dip stick?








I know that the one on the back of the pipe goes to the firewall.... not 100% on which hole though.... An im not sure where the one on the side there goes?








The one at the bottom of the side cooland flange








and when dealing with the vacuum lines on the TB I know the one that goes under the intake mani and accross but the other 2 on the TB im sure one goes to the firewall into one of those coolant ports and the other is a mystery


----------



## ihavenoideax2 (Apr 12, 2008)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

I am not sure but the bottom one on the underside of the coolant flange would go to the trans cooler and than the oil housing. At least on my 1.8t that what it does.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (ihavenoideax2)*

Well I got myself a 1.8T belt today from NAPA and tested it out...... too long..... looks like im going to need something with 146-147 teeth...... I have 2 on order to test out this week.... I suppose I could go back to the 16V tensioner but I really want to make this 1.8T setup work
my second problem is that 20V cam gear..... I cant get my hands on one... and hwen i get it I dont know what its going to fit like.......what a pain in the ass
I have one other thing im going to try with the cam gear but im not going to post about it until i know if it works or not


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

OK well I figured something out that may work......
I personally didnt build my head I had a shop do it so I didnt know what the cam gear looks like off...... so I took the 16V one off the head and took a look at it...... then I flipped it around and put back on the head and voila it almost fits ..... I measured the gaps with it flipped around, it looks like it will line up perfectly with the water pump and crank.....
my next task will be to see if i can find a machine shop that can trim the key to mirror the other side
here is a picture of what im talking about


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*

update.....
motor is back in the car....... ill have better pictures tomorrow when i get more together I ran out of time tonight but here we go...weeeee


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (sauron18)*

alright more to show..... I havent connected anything on the rad support yet.... I still have a couple things I need to address prior to reconnecting everything but everything on the motor is ready to go... minus one coolant hose that im waiting on the dealer for.
all my clearances look good... there are a couple welded in screws on the firewall that will hit the turbo when the motor moves but with them cut out I should have about 2-3 inches clearance all around the turbo I will probably run more sheild up the firewall... the only spot that i dont trully like is where the turbo is positioned referencing the A/C lines..... the air intake part of the turbo is going to have to make a hard 90 in order to clear it...... Im hoping I can get it done
I realised a couple days ago that using this 16V scirocco intake just isnt going to jive and I realised today how much more of the pain it would be to use it..... I litterally have no space between the TB and the air filter...... I know i can delete it and I probably will but after that and some interference from the coils and the oil cap Ive decided to go with a shortrunner intake .... should have it a lot easier on the intercooler piping aswell
I also got my TT exhaust all in..... next weekend RabbitMan and I are going to get the downpipe and cat welded in....... and then move on to the intercooler piping
here are some pictures

































and jamie throwing some caffine in the car








car is starting to look like a car again.... cant wait to get her going again

_Modified by duke_seb at 8:18 PM 12-5-2009_


_Modified by duke_seb at 8:28 PM 12-5-2009_


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

couple updates....
got a few more pieces sorted out.... I was having trouble getting the A/C compressor back on the mount got that sorted.... then I put the rad support back on and finally got it all connected..... just waiting on one rad hose
atfer that I popped on a new set of brakes take a look at the contraption i had to devise to make it work...... I was buy myself or i would have tried just using channel locks and a vise








after doing all the brakes on to the downpipe I have the main pipe tacked and taped.... im oing to pick up a flex WG pipe tomorrow origianlly I wanted to put the WG pipe above the flex but because of space im stuck now with putting it below
















lots more to follow in the next few days... hoping to sort out the intake situation shortly.... looking at getting a 1.8T intake hybrid 16V flange made up and thenill start the piping for the intercooler


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*

got the main part of the downpipe done....
tomorrow i have to go get myself some flex for the wastegate and then weld on the O2 bung and the DP will be done....
after that its mostly easy stuff... I have to get the intake situation sorted out and I need to route the piping for the intercooler but I dont want to do that til i get the intake
I still need go through the bentley and sort out the fuel return as my return for my golf is in the tank... want to convert to using a 1.8T fuel rail
anyway pictures


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

What cat is that (sorry if I missed that bit of info)?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_What cat is that (sorry if I missed that bit of info)?

magnaflow 2.5" highflow cat


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

well ive hit another problem..... I put my downpipe all together figuring I wouldnt have a problem finding a flexpipe for my wastegate....
figures..... does anyone in here know where i can find a 38mm/1.5" braided flexpipe?....


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

woooooo hoooo found one
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Flexible...t_993


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

ok.... so I decided to redo the CPS sensor.... I got ahold of a whole 1.8T sensor and dismantles it and put it together into the 16V diz








First I had to drill out the rivets to get the plastic sensor piece out of the 18T enclosure
then I took a couple of self tapping screws and screws the piece in putting it as close to the center of the diz as possible
then I broke the black cover off the 18T connector and twisted the wires a little and popped the connector back into the 18T housing
right now im looking for a way to connect the housings together.... 
one thing that I did realise today was that with the big openings for the screws in the 16V diz you can rotate it back or forward to line up TDC on the Trigger wheel with TDC on the cam http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
more updates coming.... not much left to do just need to get ahold of a flexpipe for the wastegate and get my timing belt tensioner spaced out... then all i got left is intercooler piping and an ECU reprogram http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

Very creative http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

well not much left to do right now.... 
got my timing belt on tonight.....spaced out the tenioner..... for those that do this build in the future putting on a 16V tensioner on to this car with the MKIV mounts is a bitch...... so i spend the better part of an hour trying all sorts of things to get the tensioner tight so i could tighten the nut...... everything i tried for the first hour worked to turn it but then i couldnt get a wrench on the nut....
so for those that are intereted in weird and stupid ****...... I found myself 2 1/8 drill bits and cut the drill parts off and then stuck them in the 2 holes and then used a screwdriver leveraged between them to rotate the tensioner 
got the CPS in place all fitting well.... need to find a way to mount the cap though
and put on the accessory belt....
fun stuff


----------



## syracusegli (Jan 22, 2005)

*Re: (duke_seb)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

so some updates... I have just about all of the stuff I can do worked out now
I still have to get some charge piping run
put in the Manual boost controller
I still need to get a fitting for my fuel rail..... and I need to finish the Wastegate DP after that its all about software and she will be ready to go
here are some pictures


----------



## Unit01 (Dec 26, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Can I have your old 8v intake manifold?


----------



## skidmarkus (Sep 20, 2007)

i cant wait to see this complete


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Unit01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Unit01* »_Can I have your old 8v intake manifold?









have no..... buy yes
the engine covr is for sale two


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*

Alright some updates
I made a few thread and talked to a few people about one issue that that Ive been dealing with this week.... 
and that is the returnless fuel rail that comes stock on this car. After looking through a bunch of the photos and diagrams from the bentley and talking to people I think im going to try and use it prior to swaping out with the one from the 1.8T system
I cant see anything in the diagrams that link the 1.8T ECU to the FPR in the tank so i dont see how the car will know one way or the other which system im using
but im not going to start the car til i can get my hands on a wideband AFR to be sure its ok
here are the diagrams im talking about
















got my software situation sorted out... originally was going to go with Unitronic 630cc flash... but after some research found that Eurodyne's Maestro 7 is going to work better for me
http://eurodyne.ca
Did a little more work on the DP last night need to fit the wastegate flange into the car with the flex on it to see how much of the flex im going to need
still havent popped the MBC in yet and im waiting on some piping to finish the intake








and a picture of my buddys VR Rabbit build in the process of putting in motor mounts


----------



## Shifty (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*









Awesome, another one ready to come to life... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Shifty)*

not quite as close as i would like.....
im having trouble with the Wastegate plumbing..... and the A/C lines are getting in the way of the turbo....
im also confused about the removing of the N249,N75, and SAI...... oh and what to do with the VVT plug.....
and i havent got my intercooler plumbing sorted
I also dont have the money for the Software or the tuning yet....
i dont think ill get this think going til march...... a i dont have time from the mid of jan until then


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_im also confused about the removing of the N249,N75, and SAI...... oh and what to do with the VVT plug.....

What do you need to know?

_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_I also dont have the money for the Software or the tuning yet....

Running stock 1.8T software here, no problems (but also no MAX HP either)


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (elRey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elRey* »_
What do you need to know?


first off.... the VVT plug what do i do with that as i obviously have no VVT...... do i just leave it unplugged?
as for the N249 I dont have one or any stuff to go with it so I assume i just put the 10W 330ohm resistor between the wires? and thats done?
the N75 is what my manual boost controller replaces correct? Do i just put a 10w 330ohm between the wires on the plug?
SAI..... do i just put the another resistor between the wires?
MAP Sensor.... where in the piping does it go?
and the external wastegate....should i just run the vacuum inline with the line going to the TB or is there a better way to do it?
as for the fueling im going with 630cc injectors and the T3/T4 57trim...... I would like to get it tuned as best as i can.......I also have to flash the ECU to remove the immo so i might aswell get everything at once
thanks for the help rey..... this wiring stuff is


----------



## Shifty (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*

Man I wish I could be some help to you but it was hard enough for me to get the N/A 16v running. Good luck bro, I'm watching! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_
first off.... the VVT plug what do i do with that as i obviously have no VVT...... do i just leave it unplugged?
*the same 3w-10w 330 resistor as below*
as for the N249 I dont have one or any stuff to go with it so I assume i just put the 10W 330ohm resistor between the wires? and thats done?
*yes., you can go as low as 3w*
the N75 is what my manual boost controller replaces correct? Do i just put a 10w 330ohm between the wires on the plug?
*yes., you can go as low as 3w*
SAI..... do i just put the another resistor between the wires?
*SAI system includes (wiring wise) the relay in the little box over the brake booster, the solenoid, and the pump itself. 
- for the relay either leave the relay in or use a resistor (same as the others)
- for the solenoid - same resistor
- for the pump, nothing. Leave the plug open*
MAP Sensor.... where in the piping does it go?
*between the intercooler and TB*
and the external wastegate....should i just run the vacuum inline with the line going to the TB or is there a better way to do it?
*from between the turbo and TB. Ppl usually come right off the turbo compressor housing. There is usually a fitting for it on the housing.*
as for the fueling im going with 630cc injectors and the T3/T4 57trim...... I would like to get it tuned as best as i can.......I also have to flash the ECU to remove the immo so i might aswell get everything at once
thanks for the help rey..... this wiring stuff is


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (elRey)*

where is the SAI solenoid?


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*

Here's where some ECU pin musical chairs happened for me.....
On the 1.8T, the pin for the SAI solenoid = the 2.0L SAI relay (#9)
and
the 1.8T adds a pin for the SAI replay @ #66
These are on the big connector.
Your car probably wasn't equipped with a solenoid like mine. Just the relay.
So, what does that mean for you. 
Add a pin/wire on the ECU connector @ #66
then resistor that wire to a power (I'd run the wire to the same box as the relay and tap the same power as the replay - big blue/yellow @ 3/85 pin)
and resistor the reply harness at your old SAI relay.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (elRey)*

OMG What!


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*

hey rey.... feel like a quick spin up to canada


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*

Did you swap out both harnesses? (both connectors on ECU)
Or just the engine (smaller) one?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (elRey)*

i just swapped the engine harness


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*

Then you'll have to follow the instructions I posted. 
Steal a pin and wire from your 2.0L harness you took out. Then insert it into the big connector @ pin 66. Route that wire (which you may need to extend) to the left of the rain tray (right looking at the bay) into the in the wiring tunnel that goes into the bay, out the side near brake booster and into the relay box where your SAI relay is.
From there you can resistor both the relay and the solenoid. On the SAI relay harness find the power wire. It will be blue and yellow and big. The pin marking on the relay itself will read 3 and/or 85. That's the wire you need to resistor the new wire you just ran.
And resistor the pins/wires for the relay itself same power wire and pin 4/86.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (elRey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elRey* »_Then you'll have to follow the instructions I posted. 
Steal a pin and wire from your 2.0L harness you took out. Then insert it into the big connector @ pin 66. Route that wire (which you may need to extend) to the left of the rain tray (right looking at the bay) into the in the wiring tunnel that goes into the bay, out the side near brake booster and into the relay box where your SAI relay is.
From there you can resistor both the relay and the solenoid. On the SAI relay harness find the power wire. It will be blue and yellow and big. The pin marking on the relay itself will read 3 and/or 85. That's the wire you need to resistor the new wire you just ran.
And resistor the pins/wires for the relay itself same power wire and pin 4/86. 

ok that doesnt seem to hard except I dont know where the brake booster relay is


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*

is this what your talking about?


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*

That's it. there should be 2 relays in it. One marked 428 and the other marked 100.
100 = SAI relay.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (elRey)*

alright ill see if i can figure that out...
i really appreciate this help......
you must do wiring for a living or something


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*

Wait. I just noticed you made the 2.5L coils fit UNDER the stock mani.
!!!!!!!!!
I looked at that and even started to modify one, but didn't think I could get it to sit low enough to clear the mani.
Mind posting detailed pics of the coils in the head and the modifications?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (elRey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elRey* »_Wait. I just noticed you made the 2.5L coils fit UNDER the stock mani.
!!!!!!!!!
I looked at that and even started to modify one, but didn't think I could get it to sit low enough to clear the mani.
Mind posting detailed pics of the coils in the head and the modifications?

i actually did post something..... if you need more detail let me know

_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_
I sorted out my issue with using plugs and wires and instead am using coil packs now.....
I had to do some major trimming to get the coils to get all the way down but they are snug in there... I think ill look for an oring or something to try and seal the holes a little more but they are in there good
here are the stages of the trim








1. You have to use and exacto knife and shave all rubber off the coil all the way up to the top indent (comes off easy)
2. You get a hack saw and you cut the plastic that is underneath until you get to the metal and then you pull that off (wasnt that hard)


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (elRey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elRey* »_
I looked at that and even started to modify one, but didn't think I could get it to sit low enough to clear the mani.


that wasnt my issue at all actually..... my issue was that i couldnt get them to go in deep enough to properly sit on the spark plugs..... so I just kept trimming..... I used a 16V plug wire as my guide so i would know how far down they were supposed to sit
my issue right now is what to do about the AEG PCV piece that i need on the oil cap... it doesnt clear.. the #1 coil pack.....
I found a solution if i dont need the PCV and that was to run a rabbit metal oil cap instead of the plastic one ... the rabbit one sits overtop of the raised part like a socket.... the plastic one sits on top of it
is there something i can do to eliminate the breather?... can i just run one from the top of the oil filter housing right to the catchcan? and then catchcan to the intake?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_


















Im in such a good mood..... I didnt realise there is a difference between the BBW and the BEV fuel systems.....
both systems have the returnless system but the BEV is nicer as its the same as the older style fuel system with the filter outside of the tank under the car.......... so if i do have to swap over the a return system its not going to be as much of a pain in the ass as i thought it was...
ill have updates on the wiring tonight as I plan to do some work on the car


_Modified by duke_seb at 2:35 AM 12-31-2009_


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*

well some updates.... after looking at what rey said...... and fearing i would screw something up i went ahead with it...lol
so i got the wiring done other then the resistor part...... I need to find a place tomorrow that sells resistors that size...... local radio shack doesnt have anything other then 1W
ok... for those that are worried about taking apart the wiring harness not that big a deal..... i was frightened at first but after i finished i was rather glad i messed around with it
I did have a couple issues with wiring... but after about 10 minutes i finally realised what i was doing..... 
1. on the big connector that connects to the ECU you need to pull out the purple piece on the connector side this will allow you to remove the plastic pin piece
2. after you do that remove the purple plastic piece on the inside where the wires are (you dont have too but it makes it a little easier to work there.... to get in to the wires i found the easiest was to put a small flat head screw driver at the end there there are no wires and pop the two little tabs out then you slide the piece towards those tabs......
3. the next part with the wiring took me about 10 minutes to figure out..... rey said i needed to run a wire from #66 and I didnt know which was which..... then after a really good look i realised that not all the wires are numbered... they number the ends so you have to count in to the one you need (in this case if you are looking at the harness plugged in it is the bottom row 4th from the right)








ill have pictures when i start to work on the car again in a couple of days of where i ran the wire too with pictures of the resistors
here is one issue that i have right now i cant figure out what this plug is for...... its attached to the firewall but i cant seem to find a spot for it..... i just noticed it today..... can anyone point this one out?








I think i have my piping sorted out for the most part.... i may change this up too as there is a lot of crossing pipe.....but i dont know yet.... I am going to run it like this to start with and get the motor running then ill prolly change it around 
right now the BOV is down and hidden behind the passenger side front bumper and the MAP is between the TB and that piece of 45 degree silicone








more updates soon


----------



## Shifty (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*

Well hey if nothing else it's looking great. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








Keep it up man!


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Shifty)*

hey rey.... after looking at the diagram for AWP and the diagram for BEV it doesnt look like #66 is used on either can you explain.....
_ what does that line that says (220) on it mean?_
*AWP*








*BEV*










_Modified by duke_seb at 11:53 AM 12-31-2009_


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*

Do a text search for 'J299' on the AWP diagram pdf. BEV will not have it as I said earlier.
J220 = ECU, and it's located in the center of the rain tray (plenum chamber)


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (elRey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elRey* »_Do a text search for 'J299' on the AWP diagram pdf. BEV will not have it as I said earlier.
J220 = ECU, and it's located in the center of the rain tray (plenum chamber)

jeez i just realised where me reading went all screwy..... i was reading the numbers on the bottom as if they were the numbers on the connector.....
geez what a pain the way they have it.....
so if i read this right switch i probably wont...... what im doing is running a wire from #4 on the connector to #66 on the harness because on this harness for the BEV ecu #46 is what is normally used
then running a resistor from 4 -> 3 so i can eliminate/bypass the relay?
what im wondering is if this is correct wouldnt it have been easier to just pull the pin on 46 and put it in the 66 spot?


















_Modified by duke_seb at 1:23 PM 12-31-2009_


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_
then running a resistor from 4 -> 3 so i can eliminate/bypass the relay?
what im wondering is if this is correct wouldnt it have been easier to just pull the pin on 46 and put it in the 66 spot?

disregard this..... i just realised that #66 goes to #4 and #46 goes to #3
does that mean its going from #66 to #4 resistor to #3 and then back up to #46?


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*

Wow. BEV wiring is a bit different from AZG. I'll have to look at the BEV diagram and adjust things for you.
As of right now, you need to MOVE pin #46 to #66 on the ECU conncetor. Then ADD new wire to #9.
Leave your 100 relay in it's place (or bypass with resistor) and put a resistor from new wire @ ECU #9 to power #4/86 on relay harness.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (elRey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elRey* »_Wow. BEV wiring is a bit different from AZG. I'll have to look at the BEV diagram and adjust things for you.
As of right now, you need to MOVE pin #46 to #66 on the ECU conncetor. Then ADD new wire to #9.
Leave your 100 relay in it's place (or bypass with resistor) and put a resistor from new wire @ ECU #9 to power #4/86 on relay harness.

thanks man....thats simple enough


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_
here is one issue that i have right now i cant figure out what this plug is for...... its attached to the firewall but i cant seem to find a spot for it..... i just noticed it today..... can anyone point this one out?









This is for the PCV heater element found on your BEV intake tube. AWP doesn't have one. #1 on the excel sheet. All it is is a switched 12v power.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (elRey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elRey* »_
This is for the PCV heater element found on your BEV intake tube. AWP doesn't have one. #1 on the excel sheet. All it is is a switched 12v power. 

thanks I someone on my local forum also told me thAt kinda messed me up after I took that hose out a couple weeks back
can u also confirm the catch can install I meantioned up above?


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*

Here are some more wiring to-do's due to the differences between AZG and BEV:
- MOVE ECU pin #10 to #68
- MOVE ECU pin #11 to #69
- MOVE ECU pin #6 to #63
- REMOVE ECU pin #21 (tape it up, do not use it. It is a hot 12v)
- MOVE ECU pin #23 to #21 (in place of the one removed above)



_Modified by elRey at 3:42 PM 12-31-2009_


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (elRey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elRey* »_Wow. BEV wiring is a bit different from AZG. I'll have to look at the BEV diagram and adjust things for you.
As of right now, you need to MOVE pin #46 to #66 on the ECU conncetor. Then ADD new wire to #9.
Leave your 100 relay in it's place (or bypass with resistor) and put a resistor from new wire @ ECU #9 to power #4/86 on relay harness.

hey Rey bit of a problem I have no wire in #46 to move to 66
suggestions?


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_hey Rey bit of a problem I have no wire in #46 to move to 66
suggestions?

At the connector? or just according to your diagram?
test continuity from your relay pin 3/85 to all the ECU pins to find which pin it is.


_Modified by elRey at 4:51 PM 1-4-2010_


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (elRey)*

#10 blank
#68 black
#11 blank 
#69 yellow
#6 blank 
#63 brown
#46 blank
#9 gr/br
#66 blank


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*

Looks like you have an in between car.
The engine and fueling is BEV, but wiring is AZG.
What about #21 and #23 pins?

I'll bet #9 goes to either 3/85 or 4/86 on the SAI relay. Check that.



_Modified by elRey at 5:18 PM 1-4-2010_


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (elRey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elRey* »_Looks like you have an in between car.
The engine and fueling is BEV, but wiring is AZG.
What about #21 and #23 pins?

I'll bet #9 goes to either 3/85 or 4/86 on the SAI relay. Check that.
_Modified by elRey at 5:18 PM 1-4-2010_

crap i didnt get this until after I left... you need to hit reply rather then edit...lol
but yes from what i can tell #9 is the one that goes to #4 on the SAI relay.... both wires are brown/grey as per both the wiring diagrams
as for 21 and 23 not sure.....
should i assume now that all i need to do is run the resistor inline to 4/86 and then im good?
------------------------
on another note (pending elreys response to my question above) I have finished all the wiring... i found my resistors today and put them all in
I also got my bumper to fit a lot better with the intercooler on had to do a little trimming.... trimed down my middle grille so i could put that back in.....
i need to find someone that can plastic weld so I can sort out the two outers I want to fill them in


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*

by-pass your SAI relay with a resistor (4/86 <-> 3/85)
and add a pin/wire @ ECU #66 and run it to the SAI relay box, then resistor it to the power wire on the SAI relay pin 3/85.
and since the wiring seems to be AZG, #21 and #23 should be fine (do nothing with them).


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (elRey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elRey* »_by-pass your SAI relay with a resistor (4/86 <-> 3/85)
and add a pin/wire @ ECU #66 and run it to the SAI relay box, then resistor it to the power wire on the SAI relay pin 3/85.
and since the wiring seems to be AZG, #21 and #23 should be fine (do nothing with them). 

I took a look in the relay box and from what i can tell the relay is hooked up the same as the AZG so I ran from #66 > resistor > 4/86 because that was the on with the br/gr wire.... I looked at the Bev diagram and br/gr on it is 3/85


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*

You previously stated that 4/86 went to #9 on the ECU. If that's the case you've just resistored #66 directly back to the ECU #9.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (elRey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elRey* »_You previously stated that 4/86 went to #9 on the ECU. If that's the case you've just resistored #66 directly back to the ECU #9. 

god i forgot about that..... what kind of monkey ass system is this...lol
ok we thats an easy fix.... but here is the question 4/86 is br/gr and 3/85 is bl/ge... you want me to resistor into the blue yellow one?... god one day ill get this right
I also left the relay in cause i didnt have another resistor... anything 3-10w is in short supply around here


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*

I also took time today to get the car on the hoist and try to get my wastegate plumbing sorted out...... but still I cant get the right bend on the flex to both everything up.....


----------



## syracusegli (Jan 22, 2005)

*FV-QR*

open dump it?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (syracusegli)*

Not legal...,.. And prolly loud as ****


----------



## syracusegli (Jan 22, 2005)

*FV-QR*

most deff loud at WOT.
legal schmegal


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (syracusegli)*

updates!


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (elRey)*

lmao......
not much to update...... I need to do a bunch of minor things and then its all software.... of which im to broke to afford for a little while...lol


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*

run a stock ecu (2.0 or 1.8t). I ran my turbo on stock AZG ECU for a little while.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (elRey)*

1.8T is out of the question because I need to get the immo disabled
2L... will that even work with the new wiring I put in #66 and also would that work with the big turbo and the 630cc injectors?


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*

I was using 2.0L injectors at the time. 
Do you have the 1.8T ECU now?
Do you have any VW dealers near you?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (elRey)*

yes i have an AWP ecu in the car right now


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*

dont want to go to a local dealer thats 200 bucks for the ecu swap..... money i loose when i go to tune the motor later


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*

get the car running on the 2.0 ecu. 
Then strike up a conversation with a tech while buying parts and let them know what you're doing. Ask them if they ever adapted a 1.8T ECU to a 2.0L car. 
'No, that can't be done.' 
'Are you sure? Mind trying it to find out for sure?'


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (elRey)*

Even if I throw in the 2l ecu I still don't know what to do with tuning to make it work right


----------



## Twin Weber (Aug 10, 2004)

Can't Belive you actually posted up the pic of me pouring pepsi in to the car..lol


----------



## sauron18 (Apr 11, 2009)

Would be nice if you upload a video when the car is up and running


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (sauron18)*

Oh believe me I will


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (duke_seb)*

It will be high def too


----------



## Jolf3 (Jul 31, 2008)

*CPS idea*

Just a idea that maybe could work to eliminate the need to put a CPS in the 16v distributor.
Maybe we could do like the vr6 and put a CPS wheel at the end of the exhaust camshaft and put a CPS sensor in a distributor block off plate.
I no longer have acess to a vr6 head or camshaft to see if it work but i think maybe it could work and let us remove the distributor!


----------



## boravr6NS (Jan 5, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_1.8T is out of the question because I need to get the immo disabled
2L... will that even work with the new wiring I put in #66 and also would that work with the big turbo and the 630cc injectors?

Run the stock ecu with stock 1.8t injectors and maf housing. 
The immo is easy to get around. You need the $99 version of vag com (not the shareware version) and do this:
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1...m#ECU
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (boravr6NS)*


_Quote, originally posted by *boravr6NS* »_
Run the stock ecu with stock 1.8t injectors and maf housing. 
The immo is easy to get around. You need the $99 version of vag com (not the shareware version) and do this:
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1...m#ECU
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

if i had a working ECU and 18T stock injectors I might consider this ..... however I dont and I dont want to pay the money for both those things when im going to need to get the eurodyne maestro 7 software anyway......
one piece of interesting info i just found out about is that the 1.8T is different from the 2L and VR in that the IAT is seperate from the maf...... elrey if your still reading this can you tell me if there is going to be an issue with me using the 2L maf on the 18T harness?


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_maf...... elrey if your still reading this can you tell me if there is going to be an issue with me using the 2L maf on the 18T harness?


I'm doing it right now. But I also added a 1.8T IAT:










_Modified by elRey at 1:02 PM 2-2-2010_


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (elRey)*

No wiring changed needed?


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*

not for a 1.8T harness.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (elRey)*

1.8T Harness, 1.8T ECU,1.8T IAT and 2L MAF .... and no pin swapping..... yaya!


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

So I noticed another really odd thing today when i was looking through the diagrams of the exhaust system for my car
More indications that my car is a hybrid AZG/BEV System....
according to the diagrams the AZG System has 2 O2 Sensors (one Pre one post cat) and no EGT sensor (that i can see)
and on the BEV diagram It shows three Sensors (Pre,Center,Post cat) and an EGT
my car only has the pre and post and the EGT


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

Poor car.... As she sits now










_Modified by duke_seb at 11:19 AM 2-9-2010_


----------



## boravr6NS (Jan 5, 2008)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

What size wheels and tires are on that thing?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (boravr6NS)*

17X8.5 and 17x10
205/45 and 225/45


----------



## DowNnOuTDubin (Jun 21, 2006)

*FV-QR*

Been a cool thread to read threw
G/L on finishing up, I'll be watching the rest of this one for sure http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

alright an update..... finally got my hands on a power steering line for my 2L ...... only took 2 months to get it....
so with that in hand I put the car up on the hoist and finished all the stuff i need to do under the car.....
Got the wastegate tightened back on..... the oil return properly tightened.... and both the axles back on..... and all the plastic shielding stuff back on too
there was a frightening moment when i was trying to put the little cover back on in behind the tranny (the one that lets you see the back on the flywheel right by the passenger side inner CV). Well I was trying to find the right bolt to put it back on and sure enough i said to myself "please dont fall in, please dont fall in, please dont fall in"... what happened.... it fell into the tranny... after about 10 minutes of messing around with a telescopic magnet I got the bugger out.... 
well all i have to do now is a few things on the top of the motor and then software and she'll will be ready to run


----------



## luv2exl8t (Apr 11, 2008)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

nice


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

update.
my car is back in my garage... all the mechanical work is done..... just waiting on money for software...... ill have pictures up later .... I break out the good camera instead of the iphone


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

quick question...... do i have to run an intercooler to start the car?......can i just run the pipe right from the turbo to the TB?
i hate my piping and I need to sort it out but for starting can i do this?


----------



## H2oWerker (Feb 21, 2005)

*FV-QR*

Yes. You can run the charge pipe directly to the TB. I wouldn't drive it like that though as heat will quickly become a problem.


_Modified by H2oWerker at 8:48 AM 2-20-2010_


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (H2oWerker)*

alright im aggravated...... i dont have enough room fort he intake I hate the way all the piping is
its kinda hard to see from the picture but if you lighten it you might








but my AC lines are touching the silicone from the intake of the turbo...... I think ive made up my mind that im going to flip the turbo around and this time im going to pull the exhaust manifold off with it to get the new downpipe welded up with the wastegate
I might also switch to the regular 16V intake aswell and run the intercooler piping in reverse... all the piping is pissing me off


----------



## syracusegli (Jan 22, 2005)

*FV-QR*

id do a short runner if you could..
and for the intake..uh...yeah ..get a catch can for the coolant and delete that sucker

maybe move the battery to the trunk too


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (syracusegli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *syracusegli* »_id do a short runner if you could..
and for the intake..uh...yeah ..get a catch can for the coolant and delete that sucker

maybe move the battery to the trunk too

i thought about a short runner a while ago but the whole reason i want this swap is so people know i have a 16V by the intake i think it looks like its missing something without the intake over the valve cover
as for the coolant and battery delete thats the plan for next winter.... this year is just to get the car running.....
right now i see no real alternatives to pulling off the manifold and flipping it around and then putting in a new downpipe.....


----------



## syracusegli (Jan 22, 2005)

*FV-QR*

ah, its all good, im all out of ideas http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (syracusegli)*

Today is just not my day...lol
so I went down and measured my distances if i flipped the turbo the other way around...... not going to work..... my wastegate will be inside the intake








so i took a good look at the intake and as long as I only have the intake pipe up by the top of the turbo it looks doable even with the ac lines they are barely touching...
so i decided the best option for me was to turn rotate the cold side so it pointed down and ill run it under to the intercooler......... well the turbo has 6 bolts to loosen to get that to rotate..... well guess what... number 6 is being interfered with by the flange i have to hold the oil return on.....grrrrreat... and i cant get at the bolts that hold the flange on so thats out..... so i decide that taking the turbo off and then puting it back after is the best option.... well i go to take the downpipe off and sure enough I cant only reach 3 of the 4 nuts..... so i cant get that off.....
what a pain in the ass


----------



## syracusegli (Jan 22, 2005)

hah, damn dude.


----------



## sgolf2000 (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: (syracusegli)*

this is an 8v head but it should be similar. you could flip the manifold and run the wastegate on top. point the compressor down and run the charge along the frame rail, similar to a stock 20v.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (sgolf2000)*

Thought about that a while back actually but u can't with a 16v the ports aren't straight up and down... They diagnal towards the center of the motor....


----------



## sgolf2000 (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: (duke_seb)*

^^ ah yes, totally forgot.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (sgolf2000)*

alright some updates.... I had a buddy come over this weekend and we sorted out the intercooler piping..... after that mess I finally got the turbo turned to point down comes out along the bottom of the frame rail and into the intercooler.... im working on the other side with shouldnt be all that bad...
I picked up 15' of power cable to relocate the battery to the truck to make room for the piping
im trying to decide right now what i want to do for the piping..... whether im going to silicone it up or get it welded ..... i dont have enought silicone and i know down the road im going to want it as a solid piece so i might as well do it now
ill have some more pictures soon... im going to mess around with running the wires to the hatch and getting all the other stuff cleaned up....


----------



## syracusegli (Jan 22, 2005)

*FV-QR*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif looking forward to the progress


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (syracusegli)*

ok more updates.... order some stuff today.... got express shipping on it... hopefully will see it before the end of the week








http://www.innovatemotorsports...2.php
and the Wideband O2 to run on it








http://www.innovatemotorsports...1.php 
giggity giggity... ive been waiting since this build started for this to be released.... it was supposed to come out last year but just got released.....
only a couple steps to having this build done..... just fluids.... piping..... and Software.... gigity giggity giggity










_Modified by duke_seb at 11:40 PM 3-8-2010_


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*

Ok I got tired of looking at the Throttle body piece that i got made a while back... the transition was just awful and I couldnt get all the bolts to go in with it so I made the decision to try something new.... but I dont want to spend 300bucks on the BBM piece... or 200 to get a piece made up like elrey..... so I decided that I am just going to weld my 3" BBM adaptor right to the TB..... yea yea yea i know I wont be able to replace it and whatnot.... but for me its the quickest cleanest and cheapest option... and right now i need the money for the software
and the way i look at it I can get a TB from a scrap yard for like $50 so I could kill 4 TB's before it costs me as much as making soemthing custom.. 
ill post pictures up when its done.... its sitting on someones desk til next week
I also have a bunch of pictures with a decent camera to show my work......ill post them up in a few minutes


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*

Here is a picture of what the bay looks like with a flash








I ran the charge pipe under the passenger frame rail around and up..... im just waiting on the TB before I finish piping
excuse some of the styling elements.... right now im just trying to get it to run.... after this season ill be pulling the motor out stripping the bay and getting solid pipes welded up


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

and another


----------



## boravr6NS (Jan 5, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_Here is a picture of what the bay looks like with a flash










where is the MAF?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (boravr6NS)*


_Quote, originally posted by *boravr6NS* »_
where is the MAF?

going mafless
its also the reason you dont see a DV


----------



## Apsik (Nov 12, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*

Subscribed
great project, great hybrid


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Apsik)*

Thanks man


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*

teaser


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*

oh and
Eurodyne Software is also on the way
http://eurodyne.ca/eurodyne_ma...e.php


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (duke_seb)*

well It took me 4 stores to finally find some distilled water.... I bought 12 litres (3 gallons to the american folk) of it just in case... and just in case is exactly what happened to me
I was reminded that my head used to be digi I guess...... cuz i found a hole in it..... I started pouring water in (thank god i hadnt mixed it yet) and as i poured it in.... I heard the splash on the ground next to me.....
im pretty sure the hole is for a coolant temp sensor or something but ill have to plug that up tomorrow.... didnt look like water was coming from anywhere else so.... thats a good thing...
I also filled the oil doesnt appear that that is leaking from anywhere
and neither is the PS fluid so..... 1 bolt away from have her filled with fluid


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

#3 is the one that I know for use was leaking.... not sure if #4 or #5 are issues


----------



## NumberOne 2nd2none (Jan 30, 2010)

Very Nice Build!


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

Sometimes you just have to think your car is working against you.....
After sorting out blocking hold #3 I found out i needed to plug #5 as well.... I figured after that.... yay finally im going to be ok....
so then I poured more water in only to wait about 2 minutes and out the back of the motor it came.... but from where?
so I pulled the intake off and still couldnt see anything..... but i noticed it was on the coolant pipe and i thought hmmm maybe I have a leak somewhere there..... I just happened to glance at the from coolant block off that i made and realised that it was leaking and I could feel it running along the bottom of the head....
so I went to take the 3 allen key bolts out and sure enough I striped one.... I ended up having to hammer a socket onto it and and finally got it out... I realised I forgot the stupid rubber gasket behind it.... put that it bolted it up with new bolts and away I went.... poured some more water in... and guess was I started to hear it trickle from the back of the motor....
at the previous point I was annoyed..... now I was starting to freak out..... I mean what could be causing it now?..... frost plugs?.... Head Gasket?..... dear god!
after some more investigating I couldnt see what was going on the head and block were dry from everything I could see... so I poured more water it...... and just so happens I looked at the right spot at the right time to see where it was coming from!
anyone want to hazard a guess..... since i had my intake off with my TB i had the hoses for the coolant to the TB off.... and sure enough I poured water in and a nice little flow of water came out.....
im just waiting for my garage to dry up and ill pour some more water in to see if i got everything .... but it looks like I have now
anyway on another note.... I got my throttle body back today welds look decent..... hopefully it works 








now I need some silicone.... either 2 90's or and "S"


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

ok so...... got a little more work done on the car..... I got my wideband iphone interface all installed and ready to go.... its not calibrated yet as i have no batery in the car.... but Ill deal with that shortly
right now im just waiting on my eurodyne software to get here with my ECU and I need a couple pieces of silicone and ill be ready to start it
im also looking at wastegate springs right now im thinking of starting with about 5psi for a little while then up to 14psi then up to 20 and for proper final tune... im not planning to mess around with the boost so im thinking the spring route is better for me then the MBC
one more thing..... im hopin this is normal..... i filled the bubble with coolant and the center hole part is full upto the lid almost but im not seeing any fluid from the outside of the bubble... im assuming its just getting trapped somewhere and not coming back to the bubble?


----------



## Two . Slow (Aug 5, 2009)

what power numbers are you expecting?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: (Two . Slow)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Two . Slow* »_what power numbers are you expecting?

I would be happy right now with 225-250.... i know ill be going higher then that so everyhting else is gravy
ill be running a few different tial springs til i get up to 20psi.... I dont see why i wouldnt be able to get around 300+
anyway updates
I did some work this week I got my BOV welded onto the charge pipe ill be posting pictures up of that shortly ...its not pretty but its solid til next winter when i pull everything out again and strip the bay and make nice pipes
I also got my IAT and MAP sensors into the intake .... had some debate on my local forums about where to place the MAP.... after lots of discussion i settles on putting it after the TB .. here is pics








Heres what small things I need to do to get it ready to start..... hoping to get it started mid month
Transmission Fluid Change
wastegate plumbing
Charge Battery
Get 90 degree piece for oil feed
Get But connectors and small "O" connectors crimps
Buy Vacuum Lines for Boost Gauge and BOV Connector
Receive Wastegate Springs - Large Blue & Small Red
Recieve Eurdyne Software/ECU
Paint oil cap
Secure crack pipe
Order 2 bolts for holding on 16v tb flange
Put wipers back on
Ground for valve cover
Put sealant in for Spark plugs *(Im thinking of running a small bead of liquid gasket around the holes for the sparkplugs where vlave cover meets the Head - with the 16V plug wires it seems like its sealed better.... but for the modified 2.5L ones i have I dont want to have oil get in there and cause a problem - sound like a good idea?)*
Get boost Gauge properly connected (vaccum leak at the gauge itself
Get better plug for end of fuel rail
* oh and for the love of god I need to find my car key, I dont know where the hell it went*


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

Another note... something im not happy about is that beause i didnt have an ECU at the time of getting my OT-2 from innovate I havent got a chance to test it on my car yet
however ive tried it on my 97 2L and an 02 1.8T and it didnt work with either of them..... so im in contact with innovate about it hopefully I can get it sorted out


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_
anyway on another note.... I got my throttle body back today welds look decent..... hopefully it works 

Sorry to break bad news to you but I did that a couple years ago and I fried all the internals of my throttle body. Why didnt you ask me for a flange to weld onto the BBM outlet?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (Issam Abed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Issam Abed* »_
Sorry to break bad news to you but I did that a couple years ago and I fried all the internals of my throttle body. Why didnt you ask me for a flange to weld onto the BBM outlet?

I have a second tb
how much fpr the flange? You got a picture?
Do u have a complete solution?


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_
I have a second tb
how much fpr the flange? You got a picture?
Do u have a complete solution?


The flange is $65 . If you were using a DBW throttle body I could have sent you the flange and a 70mm throttle body for 200 USD


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (Issam Abed)*

ok can you explain this flange?.... is it just the square 4 bolt to weld to the BBM piece?... or are you talking about a flange that allows me to bolt the TB right to the Intake?
got pictures?


----------



## 808Giant (Nov 19, 2009)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (Shifty)*

sexy build is that a 4door too sexyy =] im in the process of building my 2.ot 4dr jolf =] http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

well I got my innovate Wifi Box working in the Golf
and I got my ECU and software from dave yesterday
i got a few more small things sorted out had to fix my boost gauge and get a ground and my AFR wired in right.....
had a bit of a scare... looked under the car and saw oil dripping onto the ground...... after some sleuthing around realised it was from the oil feed that i disconnected for a couple days while looking for a better connector
all signs are pointed to this weekend for a startup on the car... all assumin the TB works.... if not it will be next week while i wait for my 70mm tb and adaptor to get here


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
With the ECU in and TB connected (wire at least) you should be able to turn ignition on, but not start, and test TB.
And personally, I'd be surprised if it survived being welded on.


_Modified by elRey at 6:21 PM 4-8-2010_


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*

Expain how..... I turned it on earlier when I was testing put the innovate wifi box I checked and there were no trouble codes..... I was sure u had to start ur car before u got a code on something like that please tell me if I'm wrong


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

With the ignition on, but car off, the TB will function when the gas pedal is pressed. Do you have a VAG-COM? If so, go to mblock 60 then hit the 'switch to basic settings' button at the bottom left. Wait until you see 'ADP OK' in far left block and then wait a few more seconds before switch back to measuring block via same bottom left button.


_Modified by elRey at 6:34 PM 4-8-2010_


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*

Interesting I'll have to try that when I get home
no I don't have vagcom...... Only eurodyne and innovate


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

Hey rey i tried it with that TB and a known working on and the TB never opened for either of them
i pulled out my code reader and got a bunch of codes i havent looked at yet
17987
16622
17069
16497
and 
ABS 01314


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

well I found out what they are.... some seem resonable... others not sure what they mean
first ABS 01314
i found this on it doing a google search
It tells me you're using an old version of VAG-COM, or something else. The 01314 means the ABS controller is having trouble talking to the ECM. Text should be "Engine control module - No communication"
17987 P1579 Idle Speed Contr.Throttle Pos. Adaptation not started *some TB issue*
16622 P0238 Turbocharger Boost Sensor (A) Circ High Input *from google is is my map sensor and it wasnt plugged in*
17069 P0685 ECM/PCM Power Relay Control Circuit Open*not sure what this is*
16497 P0113 Intake Air Temp.Cire High Input*prolly from the IAT not being pluged in*
any thoughts?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

im going to hve to take a look at this after too.... i mean i was in that area i might have messed something up in this area
according to another thread 17069 may have something to do with relay 428 beside the SAI relay
So I know the issue..Its relay 428 under the hood. check all the wires... everything is looking fine...i did a ohm test on the relay wires...But i'm missing something small. did a check from the purple black wire, to the ecu it self, I check terminal power with key on getting 12v's. Relay clicking on. I'm just confused on the issue. It had intermittent problem before with this... its a wire somewhere. When the weahter was warm the car would run fine, when the weather was cold, it would have trouble. So its a wire or a short somewhere.


----------



## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

*FV-QR*

neat project, cant wait to see it done


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_well I found out what they are.... some seem resonable... others not sure what they mean
first ABS 01314
i found this on it doing a google search
It tells me you're using an old version of VAG-COM, or something else. The 01314 means the ABS controller is having trouble talking to the ECM. Text should be "Engine control module - No communication"
17987 P1579 Idle Speed Contr.Throttle Pos. Adaptation not started *some TB issue*
16622 P0238 Turbocharger Boost Sensor (A) Circ High Input *from google is is my map sensor and it wasnt plugged in*
17069 P0685 ECM/PCM Power Relay Control Circuit Open*not sure what this is*
16497 P0113 Intake Air Temp.Cire High Input*prolly from the IAT not being pluged in*
any thoughts?

alright now i only have the two codes that i dont know how to fix
17987 P1579 Idle Speed Contr.Throttle Pos. Adaptation not started *some TB issue*
17069 P0685 ECM/PCM Power Relay Control Circuit Open*not sure what this is*
any help with these I would appreciate it
Im also having an issue with the clutch pedal.... right now its stuck to the floor


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_
alright now i only have the two codes that i dont know how to fix
17987 P1579 Idle Speed Contr.Throttle Pos. Adaptation not started *some TB issue*
17069 P0685 ECM/PCM Power Relay Control Circuit Open*not sure what this is*
any help with these I would appreciate it
Im also having an issue with the clutch pedal.... right now its stuck to the floor

ok it looks like my TB is pooched.... although im getting the same error from my good TB .... 
ialso realised something stupid i did.... I put the relays in the wrong spots... after switching the 428 and 100 to where they were supposed to be I was able to sort of crank the engine didnt have enough juice to prime it though
I still have these codes and 1 new one that i got after swapping the relays
17987 P1579 Idle Speed Contr.Throttle Pos. Adaptation not started *some TB issue*
17069 P0685 ECM/PCM Power Relay Control Circuit Open*not sure what this is*
17967 P1559 Idle Speed Contr.Throttle Pos. Adaptation MalfunctionI could hear a clicking and steady beap sound coming from both my TBs until they gave up


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

ok well I think i know where i made a mistake during my teardown
now if someone can give me an idea on how to fix it
when i took the motor out I took the hydraulic line from the clutch master cylinder out..... then pulled the motor out and pulled the CMC out itself when i was doing working on the tranny.... and im sure at some point i stepped on the clutch pedal in the car during the process....I put everything back together in reverse order
can someone tell me what to do here?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

well I sorted out the clutch situation..... i feel like what I thought was a big deal turned out to be something not so bad
I just undid the bleeder screw on the clutch slave and then pumped the clutch a few times and tightened the screw and then pumped a little and then did it again a few times and bam...I have a clutch pedal....


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

ok .... well its just about time to start it.... I have to get my hands on a vagcom cable so i can adjust the TB....
I got my AFR all wired in for my iPhone today.....
cant wait to see it in action....








one of my next posts should be a video of me starting it....
its already primed just have to deal with the tb alignment first


----------



## sauron18 (Apr 11, 2009)

I´m thinking of getting an ipod touch to use that program...Is there a similar program out there? the cool thing about this one is wifi...


_Modified by sauron18 at 4:35 PM 4-17-2010_


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

Are you still getting Maestro 7?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elRey* »_Are you still getting Maestro 7?
Already have it ...... 
Ecu is tuned with there 630cc 16v flash


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

Have you played with it yet? Did they mention what they did different for the 16v?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*

I was told the had a number of base files and that they had one for a 16v turbo application


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

16v application on a me7.x 1.8T ECU? Hmmmmm? Have you opened Maestro and looked at the maps yet?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*

No


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elRey* »_16v application on a me7.x 1.8T ECU? Hmmmmm? Have you opened Maestro and looked at the maps yet?

alright im confused..... not sure what im doing...
from what I can tell looking into logviewer,M7,Euroflash is that im supposed to read the ECU and then open the tapp file in M7?
if thats what im supposed to do i tried that and got this error "1024K M7 not supported"
any ideas?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

alright take it from me people... dont weld your TB to your Flange....lol....
I cant adapt my TB.... so im on hold now to start my motor.... what a PITA
at this point my season isnt looking good... im pretty much set to miss out on our big even here due to lack of money for parts and tuning


----------



## vair_17 (Aug 25, 2009)

your car is wicked nice duke...but it hates you


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elRey* »_16v application on a me7.x 1.8T ECU? Hmmmmm? Have you opened Maestro and looked at the maps yet?

i just got my base file from eurodyne today.... is there something from it you want to know?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

well im in a pissy mood...
it seems that when i spliced in to my stereo for power for my AFR gauge the ACC wire decided it wants to be constant power!
so my brand new battery is now drained ive had it for a week and havent even driven the car....


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

hey rey can you confirm which wires go to what on the CPS setup?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

im thinking if should be like the 2L one but i just wanted to confirm


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

I'll have go out and test my wires to see. I think posted that info some where.


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elRey* »_For the CPS <-> dizzy hall sensor connector:
2.0 pin <-> 16v pin:
1 <-> 3
2 <-> 2
3 <-> 1

It's in reverse order.

from here -> http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...64613


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elRey* »_
from here -> http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...64613 

im running a 1.8T CPS sensor not the 16V one
could you match the colours up for me?... it would be extremely helpful


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

1.8t ecu + 1.8t cps + 2.0l harness ? Right?
per wiring diagrams for BEV and AWP:
2.0L <-> 1.8T CPS
#1 green/yellow <-> #1 purple/green
#2 green/purple <-> #2 purple/yellow
#3 brown/blue <-> #3 brown/blue



_Modified by elRey at 11:47 AM 4-23-2010_


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

What are the wires under your middle (birdie) finger on the dizzy? Where are they coming from?

*note: view last post on previous page for CPS wire info*

_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*

1.8T Harness, ECU and CPS actually
the colours u meantion arent the ones i have
on the 18T harness I have
Orange
Yellow
Green
the wires coming off of the CPS are the ones that are coming off my fingers..... when i was messing with the other wires I pulled the wires out of the plug and im not sure where they go back in
this picture is what i have


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

Ah. You are talking about the CPS *internal* wires. Those don't show on the wiring diagrams. Your best bet is to ask on the 1.8T forum for a close-up picture of a CPS that shows the internal wires in relation to the connector on the CPS itself.
Or see if you can extrapolate what you need from the 2.0L CPS since the pins match-up between the 2.0L CPS and the 1.8T one.


_Modified by elRey at 12:30 PM 4-23-2010_


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elRey* »_Ah. You are talking about the CPS *internal* wires. Those don't show on the wiring diagrams. Your best bet is to ask on the 1.8T forum for a close-up picture of a CPS that shows the internal wires in relation to the connector on the CPS itself.
Or see if you can extrapolate what you need from the 2.0L CPS since the pins match-up between the 2.0L CPS and the 1.8T one.

_Modified by elRey at 12:30 PM 4-23-2010_

the wires are the same colours but i will check with the 18T guys just to be sure
did you figure out anything with the relay?
im wondering if I need a new one?.... I did have it in opposite spots with the SAI relay when i tried to prime the motor last week... im wondering if i didnt do something to it


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_I did have it in opposite spots with the SAI relay when i tried to prime the motor last week... im wondering if i didnt do something to it

Are you saying you had the ECU relay in the SAI relay spot and the SAI relay in the ECU relay spot? 

If there was no relay in the ECU relay spot, that code is expected and nothing to worry about.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*

i swapped them back i still get the error
i cleared it.... and it came back actually


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

checking wiring of ECU relay connector:
1.8T AWP
relay pin# -- wire color -- where wire goes
2/87 -- white/red -- ECU pin#121 and all coils pin#1
5/85 -- purple -- ECU pin#21
3/86 -- red/yellow -- back to ECU relay pin# 1/30
1/30 -- white/red and red/yellow from 3/86 -- ECU pin#62 (note this relay pin should have always on power: battery +)
diagram shows a 5th wire on relay pin#4 but doesn't show that it's actually used by relay. wire is black and goes to ECU pin#3 and has switched power.

Is this also from 1.8T harness or part of the 2.0L harness you left in?



_Modified by elRey at 3:18 PM 4-23-2010_


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elRey* »_checking wiring of ECU relay connector:
1.8T AWP
relay pin# -- wire color -- where wire goes
2/87 -- white/red -- ECU pin#121 and all coils pin#1
5/85 -- purple -- ECU pin#21
3/86 -- red/yellow -- back to ECU relay pin# 1/30
1/30 -- white/red and red/yellow from 3/86 -- ECU pin#62 (note this relay pin should have always on power: battery +)
diagram shows a 5th wire on relay pin#4 but doesn't show that it's actually used by relay. wire is black and goes to ECU pin#3 and has switched power.

Is this also from 1.8T harness or part of the 2.0L harness you left in?
_Modified by elRey at 3:18 PM 4-23-2010_

that harness is the ones that was in the car 2L
according to the diagram are they the same?.....


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_that harness is the ones that was in the car 2L
according to the diagram are they the same?..... 

Ah, there's your problem. No, they're not the same.

On your ECU connector, move pin#23 to pin#21.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*

giggity... ill take a look tonight and get back to you...
what colour will 23 be?


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

It should be purple.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*

you got to love VW wiring..
I sure we came accross this before with the SAI wiring..... i dont have AZG wiring diagrams but i would bet that what is going on it related to that
here is what I found (I dont have high number plugs)
1 - red/grey and red/green
5 - purple
3 - red/grey
2 - Black [(or really dark blue) same thickness as the RED/WHITE on the SAI relay]
I could probably deal with all that because it all seams to matchup to yours except the colours but when i pulled the ECU plug apart guess what i found
Ill give you 3 guesses first two dont count

purple 21


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

yup confirmed it with my bentley.... bloody frankendub


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

crap.
Make sure:
1) you have 12v on pin1 and pin3 with key off and on (always hot).
2) you get continuity between 5 and ecu 21
3) you get continuity between 2 and ecu 121 and coils pin1
2) you get continuity between 1 and 3 and ecu 62
Check resistance across 3 and 5
last check the function of the relay by putting 12v on 3 and GND on 5 and make sure that closes 1 and 2 (continuity between 1 and 2.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elRey* »_crap.
Make sure:
1) you have 12v on pin1 and pin3 with key off and on (always hot).
2) you get continuity between 5 and ecu 21
3) you get continuity between 2 and ecu 121 and coils pin1
2) you get continuity between 1 and 3 and ecu 62


this is easy enough after i get a multimeter

_Quote »_
Check resistance across 3 and 5
last check the function of the relay by putting 12v on 3 and GND on 5 and make sure that closes 1 and 2 (continuity between 1 and 2.

This not sure what you want


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

yea i just looked back a couple pages and we did go over this before with the SAI wiring


----------



## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

awesome buillddd http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elRey* »_crap.
Check resistance across 3 and 5
last check the function of the relay by putting 12v on 3 and GND on 5 and make sure that closes 1 and 2 (continuity between 1 and 2.

Rey I still need help with this


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

ok all the first 4 check out.... that ECU 121 kinda threw me off until i just tested every wire and found its one of the big ones 
as for the other one I didnt want to mess with it to much so i tried something im not sure if its what you wanted me to do or not
but I put the 428 relay back in and checked the continuty between 1 and 2 (3 obviously had power on it not sure how to check 5 I just assumed it was already ground)
what i got for a reading between 1 and 2 was -0.641


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

ok rey disregard my past posts... one of my local forum guys told me what to do
I tested the relay and i got 0.00 from 1-2 with he power and ground on it
I tested the resistance between 3-5 and it showed me 150.4 not sure what that means though
any further thoughts?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

added to my build thread for later reference
matching up Cam Position Sensor Wiring
1 Lilac/Green - Red
2 Lilac/Yellow - Green
3 Brown/Blue - Black


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *duke_seb* »_I tested the relay and i got 0.00 from 1-2 with he power and ground on it


resistance across 3 and 5 look good. But when you say your got 0.00 across 1-2 when relay was powered.... 0.00 could mean 0 resistance or infinite resistance. Did you hear the relay click when you charged/powered it? Do you know how to test for continuity? The should be a continuity setting on the multimeter? It beeps when the two leads touch each other.
And you tested continuity from relay pins to ECU pins mentinoed before?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*


_Quote, originally posted by *elRey* »_

resistance across 3 and 5 look good. But when you say your got 0.00 across 1-2 when relay was powered.... 0.00 could mean 0 resistance or infinite resistance. Did you hear the relay click when you charged/powered it? Do you know how to test for continuity? The should be a continuity setting on the multimeter? It beeps when the two leads touch each other.
And you tested continuity from relay pins to ECU pins mentinoed before?

I checked resistance from 3-5
I check continuity from 1-2 (0.00 for continuity - so good)
I never checked resitance from 1-2 though
yes and checked from relay 5 - ECU 21
I did hear the relay click over when i put the power and ground on it


_Modified by duke_seb at 11:04 PM 4-25-2010_


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

I was thinking today but didnt have time to check was whether or not I moved that pin over when we were doing the SAI and then moved it back or something.... maybe its not making enough contact with the pin on the ECU or something.....


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

Sorry for second guessing you.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*

didnt even notice..... i just want to get rid of this... any other ideas?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

update..... 
car is pretty much ready to go.... waiting on a TB that was supposed to be here at the beginning of the week








was hoping to start it today but thats not going to happen
maybe next weekend


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (duke_seb)*

Stock TB or bigger? If bigger, do you have everything to connect intercooling piping to it?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: Project Blacker II BEV 2.0L 16V (elRey)*

70mm
hoping it will work out might need a different coupler though


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

not digging the new vortex......

posting mostly to subscribe to this thread

but i did get my 70mm Throttle Body today

have to get it welded this week and hopefully i have the car started this weekend


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

duke_seb said:


> have to get it welded this week


 The flange and not the TB, right?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

yes the flange....lol 

i learned my lesson


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

well picked up my wastegate springs today... I had a 5.8lb one in there for the last while but I got a good deal on a new 5.8lb and a 14.5lb that im going to put together 

my flange is being welded as I type this 

http://www.tialmedia.com/documents/w3_tial_38_sp.pdf


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

only 47 more posts until i hit 8000 im hoping that will be my video post of the car running


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

well shes all ready to go..... im going to prime it again tomorrow... but all the wiring for the CPS and the TB are all ready to go 

im charging my camera right now... hopefully it will be nice and easy tomorrow to get it going


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

well i primed the motor again...... and the turbo is getting oil.... and i found out what the leak was undr the car.... my filter wasnt on tight enough so when i cranked it oil as dripping out.....

i clear some codes..... 

17951 P1543 Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Signal too Low
17967 P1559 Idle Speed Contr.Throttle Pos. Adaptation Malfunction
17580 P1172 Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Sign.2 Signal too Low
17972 P1564 Idle Speed Contr.Throttle Pos. Low Voltage During Adaptation

im going to align the TB and see what happens with those code..... but it appears that my ECM relay code has disappeared


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

ok..... so i went and tried to adapt the TB for the car and I got the following.... can someone help me out with these?

16497 Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
17972 P1564 Idle Speed Contr.Throttle Pos. Low Voltage During Adaptation

all im getting when i try and adapt if Error as soon as i click to basic settings

when i looked at the codes on eurodynesflash software i got these
0113 Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
0638 Throttle Actuator Control, Bank 1 Range/Performance


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

duke_seb said:


> not digging the new vortex......
> 
> posting mostly to subscribe to this thread
> 
> ...


did you get a round to 16v transition adapter?


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

I cut the BBM adaptor off the other TB and then got it welded to the flange above.... everything is fitting nicely


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

got some information from a local forum..... going to take a look at this today... hopefully ill have it started this afternoon

TB troubleshooting... 










Voltage Supply and Wiring to Module, Checking 

– Disconnect 6-pin connector -2- from throttle valve control module -1-. 
– Connect multi-meter to measure voltage to contacts 2 + 6 of connector. 
– Switch ignition on. 
Specification: min. 4.5 V 
– Switch ignition off. 
– Connect multi-meter to measure voltage to contact 2 of connector and Ground (GND). 
– Switch ignition on. 
Specification: min. 4.5 V 
– Switch ignition off. 
If the specifications are not attained: 

– Check wiring between ecu and connector for open circuit using wiring diagram: 
Contact 1 + socket 92 
Contact 2 + socket 83 
Contact 3 + socket 117 
Contact 4 + socket 84 
Contact 5 + socket 118 
Contact 6 + socket 91 
Wire resistance: Max. 1.5 Ω 
– Check wires for short to one another. 
– Check wiring for short to battery positive or Ground (GND)


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

I love when things come together

It was the battery..... Infact I think that might have been the proble with both codes.... Cleared them both and adapted the tb no probs

Going to start it shortly


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

I got spark and air.... No fuel in the rail

not sure where to go

I checked the fuel pump fuse.... OK
I can hear the pump... OK
no fuel in the rail... BAD


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

got some codes

17633 P1225 Cyl.1-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to Ground
17634 P1226 Cyl.2-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to Ground
17635 P1227 Cyl.3-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to Ground
17636 P1228 Cyl.4-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to Ground
17955 P1547 Boost Pressure Contr.Valve Short to Ground


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

well i think im getting somewhere..... i pulled this from google 

Yes, a faulty fuel pump relay can cause those codes.

See attached image of location.

Edit:

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/dtc-comparison.html


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

can someone give me an idea how to test this relay?


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

First thing I would do is with the relay out, put a jumper in the fuse panel from pin socket 2 to pin socket 8 (the two big middle sockects) and see if you still have the issues.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

Yup still issues didnt do anything

I did run a wire from the battery to the rear slot of fuse 28 and that did make the pump work


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

ok so i checked that an im not getting anything

I also checked to see if i was getting any power to either of those spots on the relay panel and nothing

i am starting to get a little worried though because now i cant get my ECU to read trouble codes and im unable to establish a connection with it with my innovate receiver

I did check the relay 428 again and im getting power to 3 and 5 and the relay works

im at a loss i dont even know what to check now


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

Are you getting 12v @ pin socket #2 on the panel? If not, check for 12v on threaded connection on bottom edge of panel labeled '30a'. If no 12v there, then check the little fuse box on top on battery... the second (inside) 50amp fuse.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

elRey said:


> Are you getting 12v @ pin socket #2 on the panel?


no... i have more info in my last post


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

more info in my last post as well. Double check battery and main chassis ground connections. Make sure they are tight.


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

ill check the 30a in a few minutes when i can get back outside.... but i checked all fuses over the battery including the blue inline one and they were all good


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

But did you check for 12v on both sides of the fuses on the battery. Maybe the fuses look good, but if they are not getting 12v, they're unless.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

No I just looked at them and they looked intact


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

woo hoo..... so I did what you said and checked 30a.... got nothing.... 

then i went and check the fuses.... 12.5 on all three..... then i went back in the car.. (sorry for the play by play.... but im in a good mood)

thought for a second and went back out and tested those same fuses with the key off.... then for ****s and giggles i ran the multimeter on the nuts inside that housing.... and 2 of the 5 nuts were registering 12.5V.... the other two i wasnt getting anything

then i looked at how it was connected to the positive on the battery and realised the only difference between the ones that worked and the ones that didnt was that I was missing the nuts on two front ones.... thats also when i realised that it wasnt a power hub like i thought it was... they are actually are really big fuses... you can barely make it out.....

so i found 2 nuts and put them on and BAM... fuel pump works

what i did notice though was that all the fuses are different amounts..... before i start the car im hoping someone can help me figure out which wires are supposed to go to which fuses.... i undid them all when i took the front off..... i didnt realise they were supposed to go certain way


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

Outside 110amp -> alternater
inside 110amp -> threaded connection on bottom edge on fuse panel labeled '30'
inside 50amp -> threaded connection on bottom edge on fuse panel labeled '30a'
outside 50amp -> -> SAI pump relay pin 1/30

There should be a lead off the opposite side of one of them that goes to the battery +.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

i have 5 connections


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

Ignore your center connection and my description still applies. I believe your center (#3) connection is for the interior.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

IT STARTED!!!!!!

i dont know what to do now..... basically the best way to describe it is the car is doing this sound

put put put baaaaaaa put put put baaaaaa put put put baaaaaaaa

i also got screen shots of the log viewer i figured someone might be able to make some sense of it

I only had the car started for about 15 seconds

standby for screenshots


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)




----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

video people






any advice welcome... she wont hold the idle


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

Wow one day and not a single comment


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

Sorry, I thought your last post were the logs. Didn't see this. Are you MAFless? If so, with all the different hardware (TB, etc) and a cold O2 sensor, I would think it would be hard for the unadapted ECU to know how to idle just yet.

Raise idle speed and idle torque pretty high temparaily.


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

Yea I'm mafless

I did adapt the tb though before I started the motor

And ideas on where to go from here ?

Thanks again for all the help Rey


----------



## david100483 (Jan 28, 2010)

what a build u got going man! can't wait to see video to hear her roar, good luck!


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

ok...

so I took a look at the eurodyne flash software like dave said and i cant find anything in there or M7 that will tell me if i have maf or mafless..... however without codes i would say its prolly already set to mafless.... but here are pictures of the eurodyne flash settings does anyone see anthing related that i dont see?










moving on.... i moved on to checking the timing..... 

I put the cam gear at TDC and my CPS is where I was told was TDC....

issue Im having and i need some clarification is where TDC is on the flywheel?

this is is the best picture i have









but here is a drawing of what it would look like straight on


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

close up of CPS Wheel


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

well.... from what i can tell my timing on the bottom end is off..... not by much...... enough to agrravate the motor but not to grenade it

I pulled all the plugs out and had a look everything looks alright inside..... and I can rotate the motor no problem... just like when i put it in the car.... 

right now im trying to find out where the TDC mark is on my bottom end.... I cant find the one on the flywheel/PP and I cant find the one on the crank either..... so once i get that sorted out ill be ready to start it again

I did find out yesterday when i pulled the plugs out that i do have to seal around where the valave cover meets the head around the spark plugs.... as there was some oil down the hole


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

Im loooooosing it...lol

this car is really making me nuts now.... I cant find the timing mark on the flywheel... and now i cant find the mark on the crank..... i can find the mark on the balancer itself but i cant find anything around the outside 

I marked the outside of the balancer so i could see where it would end up when i lined the head back up but the only thing its close to lining up with is the bolt holding the dust guard piece on

im about ready to take the car to a shop for this.... its so stupid


----------



## elRey (May 15, 2001)

just pull #1 spark plug and stick a long screwdriver or anything long down the sparkplug hole. Turn the crank until the screwdriver is at it's highest point. 

OH YEAAHHH..... you're using coil on plug and have to remove the intake mani.:banghead:


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

elRey said:


> just pull #1 spark plug and stick a long screwdriver or anything long down the sparkplug hole. Turn the crank until the screwdriver is at it's highest point.
> 
> OH YEAAHHH..... you're using coil on plug and have to remove the intake mani.:banghead:



thats how i did it the first time..... but #1 stays up for a little bit even when you continue to rotate the motor..... im not off by much ......

i need to find that stupid mark


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

still working on this.... 

can anyone take a picture of the crank pulley markings so i know where to look for it to be lined up


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

well finally after some searching i found the mark on the cover behind the balancer 

after lining it up this is what my head timing looking like 










looks like 1 tooth to me 

im going to loosen the tensioner tomorrow and get the battery charged...AGAIN.... and see where i am


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

alright...... im not sure what the problem is now..... im 99.9% positive my timing is on the nose.....

I got my belt tensioned back up.....

i start the motor and it revs then dies.... not pulse reving like before... just revs to 3000 and then drops right off

fuel is getting to the rail.....

i disconnected to intercooler piping to see if there was a problem with air there... and i can feel the turbo blowing and the motor sucking.... so im assuming thats ok

and I know i have spark......

all my vacuum lines arent leaking.....

I dont know where to go from here

here is a video of the car starting this time
http://gallery.me.com/scottbrookes#100875/Car start 2&bgcolor=black


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

would rotating the CPS a little help perhaps?


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

here is a youtube version for those that dont have quicktime


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

so ive been looking at the car with a couple guys locally and we think we might know what the problem is but arent 100%

I didnt realise that 16Vs have a ring gasket that goes around the plug holes to keep oil out.... 

oil is squeezing through the gap and running down and building up in the sparkplug holes..

my buddy thinks its slipping through and getting into the cylinders.... which might make sense after i cleaned them out last time when i thought i fixed the problem it ran for about 10 secs before it died out on it own

so project today is to get all the oil out of the whole and clean out the coil packs then put the rings on when i get get my hands on a 16V gasket


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

gdt said:


> Well done, what was the issue?


Well oil was making it through the the gap where the valve cover meets the head around the spark plug holes.... didnt realise i needed the rubber gasket in there...

put that in .... then clean out the oil and cleaned the plugs and coil packs and put them back in and for the first couple minutes i needed to give it gas to keep it running to burn off the oil....

after a couple mins it idled on its own....

thanks goes out to covemk3 for all the help today and yesterday to figure this out

here is the video


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

alright pulled the whole mainfold to cat off the car..... need to figure out this stupid wastegate problem

but should be a fair bit easier now with it all off the car

here is what im looking at


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

duke_seb said:


> problem i have right now is that that little piece is all i have left of 1.5" pipe


sweet i found more 1.5 i have a 45 and a 90

but on another note i got my Catch can situation sorted out.... for the longest time ive beem looking for a part that is on the 1.8T but i said to hell with it and modded my own port


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

while waiting for my exhuast to get finished I decided to finish a couple things on the car.... not its ready to go for tune after i get the exhuast back on

what i had to do was mount the catch can..... i was going to vent to air but tomorrow im going to rig something up to put it back in the motor safe me the money on the micro filter that i cant seem to find locally anyway

the second thing i deal with that was bothering me was the vacuum port that i put on the car.... it was ugly.... and i personally i didnt think it would provide enough vacuum for the BOV, Gauge and WG..... so I put a T in behind the intake in the brake booster line.... and then put a pipe fitting -> 1/4 line for the BOV...

heres what it looked like before









heres what it looks like now









and here is the oil catch (i replaced the fitting on the crank case for those that brought it up before.... now its the same size opening as the opening in the can)


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## raymondlee (Jun 8, 2008)

just getting started on my mk4 16v build. thanx for the inspiration.


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

Turbo or natural?


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

alright so i had to go all the way over to Princess auto again by bus... two hours later i have my $2 part...lmao

anyway.... yesterday i forgot to put in my boost gauge line so now thats on









I also have the oil catch vented back into the motor..... a whole lot cheaper then trying to find the mini filter and also trying to find a place to mount the stupid thing

heres a picture of what i did.... the catch can is mounted off the existing spot where the washer reservoir was


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

What's left?


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

Well if I could get my wideband iPhone system to work I'd be driving it right now

I need a regular gauge the I'll take it out.... Otherwise it's all done


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

Ok with the help of elrey to steer me in the right direction ive come across a way i think i can solve my lack of AFR gauge

it seems i can use my eurodyne software to monitor block 31 to see what kind of numbers im getting

first off according to this thread the numbers are going to be >1 or


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

well good news and bad news

good news - I sorts out the issue with the gauge i have..... it was my own stupid fault. one of the connections wasnt plugged in all the way into the OT2 once i plugged it back in i started to get all my readings again

bad news - at idle the AFR is showing 32.7

i sent a message off to the tuner..... obviously i wont be driving it up there at that. i just pray that the other day when i was bringing it up to temp i didnt **** up the motor

any thoughts


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## raymondlee (Jun 8, 2008)

duke_seb said:


> Turbo or natural?



might have to settle for natural


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

good idea.... i hate my car...lmao


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

ok... well today turned out to be a real pain in the ass 

I decided to recalibrate my O2 in the rain...... got soaked in the process and what did i get..... no change... 

AFR is still showing 30s and then when the car revs it surges to 60-70 

just to confirm im supposed to be taking readings pre-cat right! 

also I have another problem.... the surging....... i have to tap the gas to keep the car going when i first start it..... then ever 10 secs it surges to 3000 then sometimes it drops and stalls and sometimes it will hold its self around 800-850 

im hoping its vacuum from all those line changes and when the rain stops im going to pul them all off and take a look but for now I dont know if its that or maybe something happened with the timing? 

as for colour of the O2 sensor mine is black if that makes a difference so im guessing its not lean? 

im at a loss.....


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

the best problem im having today is that when i try and log data eurodyne crashes telling me there is to many errors.... 

none of them are trouble codes


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## raymondlee (Jun 8, 2008)

what cam gear did you end up using?


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

Transverse 1.8t...... Part number on first page


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

ok so... I ran the test that Innovate said to test the O2 Sensor (put a butane lighter not lit to it and check to see if the reading is in the 9 A/F range....) the sensor tested fine.....

so i popped it back in and started the car up.... and for the first few secs I for 16.7 (which i dont believe anyway) then back up it jumped to 32 again...

the only thing i can think is that there is a vacuum leak somewhere in this setup because the car cant hold an idle anymore either.... something ill look at tomorrow if its not blistering hot again

can a vacuum leak cause stupid measurements like this maybe?

and one more note the Sensor isnt more then 2 feet from the turbo.... prolly 1 1/2


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## Driverwanted (Nov 9, 2002)

Scott if no one has told you this yet -, maybe it will releave you a bit to know that A/F gauges read non sense at idle - its not until there is load that it will start looking right Dave's , Chad's everyone local has done the same. glad you got that iphone jazz working i will likely get it too down the rd.


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

are you kidding me..... how come this hasnt come up before

what do you suggest.... keep the car revd to 2K or something and see what it says?

also keep in mind that when the car revs itself when the revs drop the meter jumps to like 60..... is that normal too?


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## Driverwanted (Nov 9, 2002)

talk with dave - i'm not familiar with the file enough to know if you would want to rev it at all.


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

ok this car baffles my mind....

well from what i can tell it checks out... my AFR is 32

i got my eurodyne software to work..... i had to run it on medium speed.... and sure enough when reading block 31 i got some odd numbers using the factory O2

here is video..... where you see it flux and go down is where i revd it up to 2K to see its response






and here is what it sounds like.... i figured out the vacuum leak... apparently the gasket around the TB came loose and was sucking in air.... now it will hold the idle at least


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## raymondlee (Jun 8, 2008)

man i am so ready to add 8 more valves to my beetle.


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

this car is realy starting to piss me off :sly:

I cant get it to give me the right AFR..... 

i think ill have to pull the DP off again and get it welded again..... hopefully that will solve the problem.... the car is defintely getting fuel.... but its getting air from somewhere


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

CAR DRIVES CAR DRIVES CAR DRIVES!

needs a little tuning and a couple minor things but its done I can drive it

here is a video (excuse the daughter she talks through everything)


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## Jeebus (Jul 8, 2001)

As I mentioned when I took you for a drive, it's drive at your own risk at this point. 

Get the air fuel gauge issue straightened away so if you do drive it you can keep an eye on what's going on. At this point you'd be playing with fire driving it without the knowledge of what's happening. Seen way to many motors wrecked for improper tuning... don't be one of them.


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## raymondlee (Jun 8, 2008)

good deal man going to go pick up my pistons next then its my turn


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

ok heres the story..... everyone knows my AFR gauge is ****ed right up..... and i cant figure out why.... so any advice anyone can give here would be helpful 

heres the diagram of the exhaust in the car 









Right now at idle it reads around 32ish 

when i drive it consistently at about 2-2500K is hovers around 22 

I originally thought it was the gauge or something or maybe the grounds.... but reading off the cars O2 at the top of the pipe says the same thing (actually it tops out at a lambda reading of 1.999 which is AFR 29.4) 

so im actually believing that the Gauge really is getting that reading somehow even though the car is definitely running rich 

so my guess is that air is getting into the exhaust after the head 

now Ive checked the nuts holding the manifold on and the nuts holding the turbo to the DP and the Turbo to the Manifold aswell I havent seen any exhaust come out of them so im pretty sure they are sealed 

which brings me to the exhaust after the cat... it has remained unwelded so i could get the exhaust on and off easily 

now could the opening in the exhaust back that far effect the AFR on the gauge and even further up near the Turbo?


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

What is that open pipe sticking up between the factory o2 and gauge o2?


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

sorry forgot to draw the WG


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

Are you able to flash your ECU with changes made in Maestro?


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

I can but dont know what I'm doing.... I'm leaving this for a pro

But from what I understand from idle to 2k I'm running lean from 2k+ I'm running rich


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

car is going for tuning thursday


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

Ok well had the car o the dyno and ran into problem a couple wiring ones and then I stopped getting comms with the ecu and the car won't start

Anyone have ideas on where to check I'm hoping it's something stupid but not ruling out a fried computer


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

here is the problem that ive noticed

car just cranked yesterday after we tried to see what the DTC codes were so we towed it home...

I called settles to see if there were any fuses or relays or anyhting i could easily take a looks at he suggested that on a number of mk4's if an aftermarket stereo isnt wired correctly at some point you could loose comms with your ECU... so I unplugged that and then unplugged the battery for about 30mins

plugged the battery back on and I could read the ECU and had a code for the cps as i expected because we were trying to erase that code yesterday when everything stopped working

and he said to try and start it... so we tried and it cranked like last night

I put the reader back on and I cant access the ECU again... i just unplugged the battery again

but im wondering if anyone can think of anything to check?


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

If i unplug the battery and then put it back on after a few minutes i can start the car once..... it will run fine.... once i turn it off it will just crank next time i try.....

anyone have any ideas?

Ive cleaned the following grounds maybe i missed one somewhere.... Under the battery (both of them) on the starter, under the dash, and under the cowl


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

alright the problem is the ECU...... I put in the old 2L one and the car starts fine.... a little rich but starts

im going to try and reflash the 1.8T ecu and see if that helps if not then ill be in the market for another 1.8T ECU


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

wooo hoo

stupid problem.....

car is running now.... i guess when i flashed it the last time there must have been some issue..... and after i cleaned all the grounds and reflashed it yesterday it starts over and over....

i just need to get my fueling working enough that i can drive the car to my tuners


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## kewlbreze77 (Oct 11, 2009)

Glad you worked out your problem and it wasn't that bad. Been watching this while i've been collecting all my parts for my build. Going to start out N/A with Shifty's and our clubs' help. Good luck with your tune!


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

Thanks I thought I was talking to myself for a while

I'm going to start working with the tune tomorrow


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## kewlbreze77 (Oct 11, 2009)

I think you still have a handful of folks just watching the thread. I'll be looking forward to your dyno results after you get your tune finish.


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

well i think im getting somewhere... but wow... if i am this file from eurodyne is retartedly off 

So now that i can flash this car properly I started to do what the tuner was telling me 

so i started adjusting my injector constant in increments of 0.005 









before the super got pissed an told me to stop I got it up to 0.092*** and im getting a fairly good afr 

a lot better then it read normally.... right now its idling around 19-22ish and with gas im getting around 16ish 

im going to mess with it somemore tomorrow an see if i can get it any better 

the one thing that is bothering me is the throttle response when i give it a little gas it revs up to 2-3k over and over on its own prolly 4-5 times then the car settles at an idle


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## kewlbreze77 (Oct 11, 2009)

Did you let the TB recalobrate itself? And what I mean is.... 

Unplug your battery for a minute or so. 
Reconnect Battery. 
Turn ignition to on but do not start the car. 
Listen to the throttle body, You will hear it whine. 
When The Whine Quits you are done, Start the car and see if its better.


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

doesnt have an effect.... i re calibrate it through the software too all the time too... im pretty sure its because im running a 70mm TB 

im thinking about going to a MAF and DV setup instead of MAFLESS and BOV... ive been reading that MAF helps with idle and drivability in the low end 

thoughts?


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## pendulum (Apr 29, 2001)

duke_seb said:


> im thinking about going to a MAF and DV setup instead of MAFLESS and BOV... ive been reading that MAF helps with idle and drivability in the low end
> 
> thoughts?


This is precisely why I'm going with MAF on my build, along with my native TB - then I can run C2 software and not have running/driveability issues (well I'm hoping, anyway). :thumbup:

By the way, great thread! I've been following it for awhile now and it has given me a lot of inspiration and caution on my journey. I'm doing a 16vT ABA in a mk3, but overall same concept. I'm not going with a coilpack though, and i'm sticking with factory engine management (albeit with the C2 chip, of course). Also using some of the BBM parts for the adaptation of the 16v head to the ABA 

Looking forward to seeing yours run smoothly! :beer:


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

So, did your forged pistons clear everything without modification? Just buy, install and go?
Also, did you source them from INA or Issam?


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## pendulum (Apr 29, 2001)

elRey said:


> Also, did you source them from *INA or Issam*?


 One in the same, no?


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

pendulum said:


> One in the same, no?


 yeah, sorry. I meant to type Issam or IE.


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

i bought wiesco from integrate engineering... no mods required


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

How are things going?


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

Can't afford the tuning right now so its just sitting there


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

Why not log and tune yourself?


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

Not sure why nobody has brought this up...so I will. 

AFRs out of whack means you need a better ground. Ground it right to the battery. 

The dude who said that the AFR gauge won't read right at idle is on crack, lol. A wideband doesn't need 'load' to operate properly :laugh:. Is this the 1.8T forum?


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

its not the ground... believe me ive rewired it like 3 times and always the same... I also had someone come in with an independent one in the back on the exhuast and still the same result..... the fuel is way off.... 

as for tuning myself... I have not clue what im doing


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

a little bit of an update...

ive decided to go with maf and DV

I have the DV on the way and the MAF and 3" housing are in the car now.....

Im lengthening wiring to get the MAF relocated to the passenger side but im hoping this will help with something.....

anyone and a HKS BOV?


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## kewlbreze77 (Oct 11, 2009)

Updates???


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

nope


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## deathhare. (Apr 1, 2008)

watching


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

less watching more helping


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## LA7VJetta (Jul 21, 2009)

secksay car man.


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

Thanks man hopefully it will rub someday


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## LA7VJetta (Jul 21, 2009)

duke_seb said:


> Thanks man hopefully it will rub someday


 isn't this like to only 16V Mk4? I cant say I have seen another.....


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

Nope there are 3 others for sure

Elrey
Shifty
Issam abed


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## LA7VJetta (Jul 21, 2009)

duke_seb said:


> Nope there are 3 others for sure
> 
> Elrey
> Shifty
> Issam abed


 still is pretty unique though. :thumbup::thumbup:


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

I'm getting pretty fed up with it actually.... I don't know what to do to make it work right


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## LA7VJetta (Jul 21, 2009)

duke_seb said:


> I'm getting pretty fed up with it actually.... I don't know what to do to make it work right


 lol, I will buy it. how much$$$?


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## Jeebus (Jul 8, 2001)

Leave it with me for a few days... it will work.


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

i gotta get it there first


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## SMG8vT (Oct 8, 2004)

Whoa this is still going on?


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## raymondlee (Jun 8, 2008)

i am back on the horn


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

What does that mean?


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## SMG8vT (Oct 8, 2004)

The horn Scott... He's back on it.










(I have no clue) :laugh:


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## raymondlee (Jun 8, 2008)

i am going to attempt the 16v conversion again! i backed out when i compiled all of my parts before,,, not this time


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

raymondlee said:


> i am going to attempt the 16v conversion again! i backed out when i compiled all of my parts before,,, not this time


What are u doing turbo or na?


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## Shifty (Mar 25, 2004)

Duke, I need to see this car running soon...


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

Shifty said:


> Duke, I need to see this car running soon...


Then come up here and help with fueling I'm lost

Car is ready I just don't have money for tuning


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## Jeebus (Jul 8, 2001)

Jeebus said:


> Leave it with me for a few days... it will work.


I've helped you for free, I've offered to work on it for next to nothing... I can't offer you anymore then that. Do yourself a favor and get me the car for an evening.


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## raymondlee (Jun 8, 2008)

duke_seb said:


> What are u doing turbo or na?


 turbo.... eventually


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## 1.8TRabbit (Nov 15, 2004)

eace:


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

Car is on way to get tuned shortly.....

god willing it will work


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

has anyone run into sporadic idle with 70mm TB

car will idle sporadically while warming up but then work alright .... then then it will come back

faulty TB? or issues with file?


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

Some video of the car after a rough tune

Thanks to Dave at comotorsports.ca for all the help


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

AFR Gauge


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## sauron18 (Apr 11, 2009)

What would i need if i go N/A? 

The head, 2.0 16v pistons, what else?

Thanks i will read all the info then.


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

its all on the first page


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

What's VAG-COM said AFR is while your gauge is reading what it does?


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## Jeebus (Jul 8, 2001)

Maestro said A/F were fine 14-15 during regular driving, I could never get that Iphone app crap to work. He needs a real A/F gauge. lol


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

So, it's tuned now? Is he driving it?


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## Jeebus (Jul 8, 2001)

Yes and no... I have it setup for regular driving, no boost at this point as it still needs to be fully tuned. At least he has a vehicle again. 

In other words... Duke get your car tuned.


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

VAG is saying same as the independant AFR gauge 

dave... you couldnt get the AF to work because one of the cables was unplugged from it under the dash.... i noticed it when i got the car back.... 

im hoping its all tuning but i still have that feeling that there is something else missing from this equation..... like there is air getting in between the head and the O2 sensor.... maybe there WG? 

im hoping to get it up to moncton to tune in the next couple months.... 

BTW dave...that damn battery died.... this car goes through batteries faster then I go through pizza:screwy:


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## Jeebus (Jul 8, 2001)

Regarding the battery, I noticed that innovate OT-2 was drawing on the battery... so I'd be disconnecting that thing and chucking it in the trash like I've told you from the beginning. Get a gauge. 

As for the A/F they are 14-15 when driving, I drove the car for 3 days and know for certain. As for sitting at idle and seeing the sporatic A/F's.... it needs to be tuned properly for cold start, warm up and so... but I've told you this a million times now, get it tuned.  

To you're last comment, the car drives fine, I would say at this point it's ready to go. When you see boost that may be an entirely different thing but right now the little quirks with idle and A/F is strictly tuning. 

Just so folks know, what I did was get the car up and running for him with some minimal tuning until he could afford to bring it to the tuner.


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

im going to pull out one of the WG springs before i go up... danny wanted to tune it for 8lbs first then work it up to 22


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## leon whalen (May 28, 2007)

congrats duke, great to see this project moving ahead :beer::beer: 
cant waite to see it at mvoc 


....now you can trade in your bus pass lol


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## 01golfgls (Oct 25, 2009)

great build! i'm in the process of pricing things out and finding the right parts to start my own 16v swap. for the wiseco pistons, did you still have to get them machined to clear the oil squirters?


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

nope the skirts were fine... its why i went with them


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

01golfgls said:


> great build! i'm in the process of pricing things out and finding the right parts to start my own 16v swap. for the wiseco pistons, did you still have to get them machined to clear the oil squirters?


be careful what you do... i spent a lot more money then i thought i would on this project.... at this point i think that i would have stayed NA if i knew then what i know now


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## 01golfgls (Oct 25, 2009)

duke_seb said:


> be careful what you do... i spent a lot more money then i thought i would on this project.... at this point i think that i would have stayed NA if i knew then what i know now


i'm thinkin of doing high compression/nitrous/built head route with mine, or quite possibly high comp supercharged/built head. i know going into this it won't be cheap by any means.

and thanks for the piston info!


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

well im getting closer... if money works out this month i may have a tuned car around the end of the month.. 

I had to replace my vac lines and put different hose clamps on.... 

sorted out the issue with the intake rubbing on the A/C lines 

took out the 22lb spring in the wg and replaced it with a 8lb one (for now) 

all I have left is to get a new downpipe made.... the one i have just isnt working... there is a hole somewhere.. pull off the oil return and fix the connector (easy stuff) 

and then buy myself a new AFR gauge 

then its off to moncton for tuning


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

Well it looks like one more problem after another.... First I needed fix the leaking coolant flange on the front of the head.... Once that was done I noticed what looks like oil leaking from the underside of the turbo.... And on top of that my axle now appears to be screwed









I can't win with this project


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

Hey Rey.... Do me a favor man I posted a thread in the forced induction forum a couple mins ago can u take a look at it and tell me what u think.... I'm having a leaky turbo issue


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

I'll put my forced induction post in here so people can follow the progress

Alright I need some advice

I'm not really all that familiar with the inner workings of a turbo so I'm going to show u where the leak is hopefully u can give me an idea of the problem

I'm hopping a bolt might not be tight enough but I can't get under the car til tomorrow to check if that the problem

On the hot side of the turbo there are 6 bolts that hold the turbo to the housing separated with a bracket that goes around that the bolts go through

It appears (I stick my fingers between the bracket and the hot side) that oil is leaking from there .... 



















It's a new turbo ... But I did undo those screws when I first got it in order to make the oil feed straight up

I'm hoping it's just a loose bolt causing the leak but is there other possibilities?

Could leaving this bolt a little loose cause problems to the inside of the turbo?

Thanks for the help


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

Well I tightened the bolts a little but I don't think that solved the problem.. Still leaking oil

I also noticed another problem... Listen to this and tell me what you think is going on with my tranny

Apparently a vw tech thinks fifth gear might be loose ... A common problem so I'm being told

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vUKl3kINX1Y

I don't know about trannys so any help would be appreciated


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

well i replaced the fluid in my tranny and from what i can tell i was 1 litre short on oil.... so I'm glad i did it...

but the problem is still there

I did find something else interesting... when i push in the clutch the sound goes away too...

does anyone have ideas what it might be?

is anyone still following my thread?


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## SMG8vT (Oct 8, 2004)

Hi Scott..


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

got any ideas?


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

My tranny is very noisy in neutral and goes quiet with clutch pressed. But I never tried pressing my hand in that area. So, I'm not 100% we are hearing the same thing. I was told my 02J noise was normal.

And yes, I still follow your progress :thumbup:


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

someone just told me it was my release bearing?

i really don't want to have to pull the tranny off

i don't know how i could have screwed up a release bearing when i replaced it during my rebuild

i have been reading that a lightened flywheel my vr6 clutch kit could be causing the noise.... 

i was hoping to take my car to get properly tuned for boost this week... not its back to the drawing board again...

this car is making me so ****ing mad.... every time i get close to having it tuned something else comes up


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## Browneyes (Dec 12, 2010)

well to me it sounds like a throwout bearing(release bearing. and you shouldnt have to pull the tranny. i believe its behind that cover. but double check..


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## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

I'm positive that the release bearing is on the shaft in the bell housing.... But the clutch yolk is in the end of the tranny where I'm pressing.... Which makes me think it needs to be adjusted...


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## Browneyes (Dec 12, 2010)

ok. well hopefully you get it fixed. i read all of your stuff lastnight and its a pretty straight build. good luck/ job on it. im getting stuff together for my 16v/aba turbo build. nice ride too. lol


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## blankblank (Oct 16, 2010)

I just read everything too. Great build. I plan a NA 16v AEG soon enough.


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## david100483 (Jan 28, 2010)

What happened to this one? had fun following this build, great project hope it gets done. good luck :beer::thumbup:


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## Shifty (Mar 25, 2004)

Yeah what's the scoop on this thing?


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## Jeebus (Jul 8, 2001)

I got the car running so he could drive it on the street... however it needed to be tuned on the dyno. He never ended up doing that, then he had some issues with axles/trans and then dropped off the face of the earth. It hasn't been spotted for some time so I suspect it's sitting.


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## platinumdub-18t (Jul 1, 2008)

dunno either - haven't heard lately, but if i spot it, i'm going to instantly pull over and part it out. i do that you know. 

should have just swapped in a 1.8t like everyone else... is never too late.


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## war.monkey (Nov 4, 2011)

Did this get finished?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## 1.8TRabbit (Nov 15, 2004)

opcorn:


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