# Replacing stock Audi A4 (B6) rear pads: pad recommendations & are discs also needed



## vwromans (Feb 1, 2001)

I am desperately in need of swapping out the rear pads on my '03 Audi A4. I'm wondering if anyone on this forum has an advice on the following: which pads to use and where to order? Do I also need to replace the discs?
Embarassingly enough, I have not replaced pads in about 13 years since an old Honda Prelude I had.
Any tricks or tips as to how to do it in this car would be appreciated.


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

*Re: Replacing stock Audi A4 (B6) rear pads: pad recommendations & are discs also needed (vwromans)*

Good that you posted! Changin rear pads on Audi/VW brakes requires a "piston retracting tool"..you can't just squish in the pistons with a C clamp like you can the fronts (and rears on some other cars that have a separate ebrake)! You can get this tool loaned for free at Autozones around here..check it out. It turns pistons clockwise as you compress em..and resets the e brake adjusters...you will ruin calipers tryin to just compress w/o turning!







As far as rotors go, Audi/VW has left very little "wear" thickness in these rotors to save weight...and the cost of new rear rotors isn't all that much more than cost of havin old ones turned...so I just buy new rotors (not Chinese knock offs, but OEM quaity like Brembo, ATE, Zimmerman). Check out Stop Shop Drive or Get Cool Parts they along with Autohaus AZ give free shippin on orders over $50 (which rear brakes will be) so you don't have to worry about shippin heavy rotors! I've used PBR Delux pads as have others on the Passat B5 Forum with good results..decent brake power, lower than OEM pad dust. You can change rear rotors on Audi/Passat brakes w/o pullin carriers (on the B5 design at least). Get some "Synthetic Caliper Grease" to lube the caliper pins. The caliper lock bolts are supposed to be one time use..but some have just used Loctite Blue on them instead. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## vwromans (Feb 1, 2001)

Thanks, good advice. Autohaus AZ is offering up ATE/Zimmerman rotors and either Mintex or Pagid pads. I'm inclined to go with the Pagids because of price. 
Any idea how long a job this is?
Does this require any bleeding of rotors?


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

*Re: (vwromans)*

I've had good service with Autohaus....the rear brake job should take about 2+ hours...depending on how long it takes you to get car up...I have ramps and use those to get car part way up..then jack up and place jackstands, so I've got it down pretty pat. As far as fluid bleeding is concerned..how long ago was it done??? Hope you don't answer never!...MUST flush fluid every other year to prevent damage to ABS and calipers from moisture that brake fluids absorb thru master cylinder vent....So if you haven't flushed in the recent past w/in a year say...do it now..you got car up on one end and two wheels off...half work of flush is done...jack up the fronts and flush fluid! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## iamnobody1 (Oct 15, 2008)

*Re: (spitpilot)*

factory oem pads are textar and pagid
the rear caliper assembly is very easy to damage and costly to have repaired -- be certain you use the correct retracting tool in the correct manner
in fact it is now recommended to perform annual brake fluid change-out due to increasing concerns over brake system moisture related corrosion -- the owners manual / service manual "replace brake system hydraulic fluid every tow years..." merely complies with eu environmental sensibilities... does not address realworld brake corrosion problem
have competent service tech do your a4 rear pads - less expensive in long run
BE CERTAIN to use approved brake grease on caliper guide pins & rubber caliper bushings to prevent uneven brake pad wear


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## vwromans (Feb 1, 2001)

*Re: (iamnobody1)*

OK, now you have scared me. It sounds like you are saying I should not try this maintenance at home. The brake fluid has not been bled due to the fact that we have only owned the car one year. I'm all for bleeding the brakes and trying this all myself but trust the advice on this board. I'm just trying to avoid a $600 repair if I can.


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

*Re: (vwromans)*

Anyone with reasonable ability to read and retain info and a good shop manual can replace brake pads and rotors, and flush brake fluid. If doin rear brakes and fluid flush costs $600 and parts cost $200...you save $400..more than enuff to pay for a Bentley manual and still save $300 or so...and if the job takes 3 hours the first time you attempt it...you get "paid" $100/hour (after tax income since you would have to pay FICA and income taxes on your wages B4 you could pay the $$ to the shop)...not a bad wage! On the other hand, if one has trouble following instructions or thinks "shop manuals are for sissies"...then I'd not reccomend they work on their brakes..its not like changin out the side marker lenses for that "Euro" blacked out look...where the worst that can happen is you crack a lense and are out $25....brakes not working can hurt people...so you want 'em done right..which takes me back to the "buy a shop manual" mantra! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## iamnobody1 (Oct 15, 2008)

*Re: (spitpilot)*

your work will be easier if with e-brake off, you slacken mech adjustment to actuator arm(s) - than release calipers - than remove rear pads
before & during use of professional piston retractor tool - examine master cylinder reservior brake fluid level - in case your rear pads are fully worn (min thickness) AND brake fluid has been added to reservior - to avoid overflowing brake fluid @ reservior
retract each piston fully, not merely enough for pads to fit rotor thickness - you will have to press brake pedal (2) or more long strokes to re-center caliper & to allow ratchet to take up excess clearance (piston face to rotor)
apply appropriate anti-squeal / anti-seize compound on piston face and pad edges @ caliper contact points - sparingly - 
i will not comment on re-use of brake component stretch bolts - at owners own risk
after both calipers re-assembled to carriers, before driving away, you must loosely adjust e-brake cables - than center calipers/brake pads through actual use - later same day adjust e-brake cables again leaving small amount of slack (e-brake pulls up/foot pedal moves 3-4 clicks instead of final adjust of 2 clicks after pads seat in several days time
purge/replace brake fluid fully each year to remove moisture from system
at (5) years and older, it is not performing rear pad r & r competently, as many DIY with service manual can do, it is accurately accessing condition of lucas designed rear combined service caliper - whether rebuilding of caliper is needed = age of caliper / not total miles or km that counts


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