# 1.6L Engine Rebuild



## meanvw (Jan 1, 2005)

So this story starts with a "barn find" 83 rabbit. Story goes that it drove into the barn 10+ years ago, belonged to a couple that went out of the country to be missionaries/peace corps - something like that. Now it's years later and they never returned for the car. Body is rust free, interior is a OK, just really dirty.








http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4552991
I read a few threads, ask for some advice, start trying to get the old girl running again.... No matter what I do, I cannot get the crank to turn, and finally pull the head to find this nightmare:








Remarkably the block cleaned up and I got the pistons to move, but after taking it to the machine shop to get it bored to take oversized pistons, they magnafluxed the block and what had appeared to be a deep scratch was indeed a deep crack in one of the cylinders which would have required a liner, more $$ than I was willing to spend.


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## meanvw (Jan 1, 2005)

*Re: 1.6L Engine Rebuild (meanvw)*

After searching far and wide and long, I found another engine which ended up being no good either. Looks like head gasket failed and cylinders 2 and 3 were trying to meet each other in the middle. The deck of the engine block on this one was corroded between #2 and #3 which would have meant machining down the deck to get it flat, and then depending on how much off there, a stack of head gaskets, or taking the same amount off the tops of the pistons... No pics on this one, but again, more money than I wanted to spend.
3rd motor was the charm. Picked this one up for $100 from a guy. Came out of a Quantum Turbo diesel. Cleaned up nice.


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## meanvw (Jan 1, 2005)

*Re: 1.6L Engine Rebuild (meanvw)*

So after reading a number of re-build threads in here... I've still got some questions... and also looking to document a whole re-build start to finish for those coming after.
First question is this:








On the left is the center bearing for the crankshaft that was in the turbo diesel block. On the right is the type of bearing which was in the other 2 non-turbo blocks. 
I've looked at several different sites and I can only seem to find the type that is on the right, and so far not the type on the left (which is what came out of the block I'm using). 
The question is, whats the difference and can I use the type on the right in the turbodiesel block?
I'm thinking about ordering the main bearings and rod bearings from AutoHaus AZ, and the brands they have are Mahle and Kolbenschmidt. Are either of these brands good, and is one better than the other?
For Piston Rings they have Grant and Goetze. Either of these brands OK? one better than the other?


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## janb (Oct 24, 2000)

Nice BLACK Rabbit, I thought my 81 4dr Black Rabbit was pretty unique....
I hope you are rebuilding it as a turbo for the Rabbit, It will really like that! (and so will you). You will just need a different turbo exhaust (E-W) manifold + downpipe than the N-S Quantum had. (as well as oil filter housing, which you will have from other donors) and some intake and oil hoses.
It looks like the deck was cleaned with a motorized wire brush, that is not a good idea, as crisp edges are better for gasket to seal compression and pressurized water.
Have you been on the tech section of vwdieselparts? It has many good tutorials.
The mains can be used either way (thrust shims or one piece) The multi piece are older version IIRC (I have only found them in 1.5's). The brands you mentioned for bearing are both good. The Rings I have heard of and think are ok. I prefer single piece oil rings (cast rings w/ spring) Rather than the 3 piece with a crimped band for oil scraping. (personal preference after experiencing scoring w/ the 3 piece version). Do check bearing clearances with plastigage as a safety measure. AND KEEP STUFF CLEAN.
In the future if you have a bad scored cyl, you can have it lined for ~ $80.


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## rustycaddy (Apr 19, 2009)

Here is a link to 3 piece thrust bearings but I am not sure if it is the same for NA and turbo
http://www.bildon.com/catalog/...451SP


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## meanvw (Jan 1, 2005)

*Re: (janb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *janb* »_...I hope you are rebuilding it as a turbo for the Rabbit, It will really like that! (and so will you). You will just need a different turbo exhaust (E-W) manifold + downpipe than the N-S Quantum had. (as well as oil filter housing, which you will have from other donors) and some intake and oil hoses.
It looks like the deck was cleaned with a motorized wire brush, that is not a good idea, as crisp edges are better for gasket to seal compression and pressurized water.
Have you been on the tech section of vwdieselparts? It has many good tutorials.
...In the future if you have a bad scored cyl, you can have it lined for ~ $80.

Thanks for the info!








The quantum block was just the short block. No turbo stuff came with it








I cleaned the deck with a little 3M fiber wheel that goes on an angle grinder. Supposedly specifically made to remove gaskets... or so said the mechanic in our truck repair shop at work.
Been looking at threads for last hour at vwdieselparts, thank you, did not know about that site.
I was quoted $120 to sleeve 1 cylinder including the price of the sleeve. I added it up, and would have had about $550 into it by the time I got the other 3 holes bored and a new set of oversized pistons. Guy I bought this engine off of said that this one has the "oil squirters" that keep the pistons cooler which is supposed to be a big plus? 
I built a 16VG60 last winter so this should be a piece of cake right








http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4157368


_Modified by meanvw at 7:20 PM 11-22-2009_


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## Baron VonZeppelin (Apr 16, 2008)

*Re: (meanvw)*

When the couple drove it into the barn before going to Iswambabwee - 
i guess 1 was pushing and 1 was steering. lol
Isn't it amazing how things pan out sometimes ... woW
The oil squirters are an upgrade on the TD blocks. You should see them located in the crank gallery of the block. The stamped block code on the machined pad around #3 should be different from your others.
You're probably going to want to get replacement fuel injectors.
A set of rebuilds is for sale at an excellent value in the classifieds right now for $100 shipped. You will never beat that price. fwiw
Good luck on your mission.
Its a worthy car. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Lord_Verminaard (Apr 6, 2004)

*Re: (Baron VonZeppelin)*

Nice project!
Some advice, DO NOT use the integrated thrust bearing, use the multi-piece bearing like the original. If the crank endplay is still in spec, you can re-use the washers and just replace the bearing, that's what I did.
Also, make sure the #3 main has the 360* oil groove in it, it's an upgrade.
Check the link in my signature, I also re-built a 1.6, though I did not take very detailed pictures of the whole process.
Hit up Myke_W on here or at vwdiesel.net forums, it's where I got all of my rebuild parts from. His prices are great and he only sells the good stuff.








Good luck!
Brendan


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## rookdubdoc (May 1, 2004)

Suscribed...


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## sin bar (Jan 12, 2008)

*FV-QR*

neat, i'm gonna keep an eye out on this, i'm considering "refreshing" my n/a 1.6...
good luck!


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## meanvw (Jan 1, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (sin bar)*

Happy "Cyber Monday"!
Did a little internet shopping for parts for the bottom end - ordered and on the way! AutoHausAZ is great! Free Shipping on orders over $50 and good prices. $90 for new rings, main and rod bearings and the bottom end gasket set. I think that's a deal! Will need to order another batch of parts for this motor, but waiting to get the bottom end together and measure the piston height off the deck once it's together. I got the block without a cylinder head on it, so I dont know how many notches on the original head gasket.








Also figured I'd invest in a cylinder hone and piston ring compressor and add those to the toolbox. I've got a 16V that will be getting re-build next, so I'll need these more than just this once.








** and yes, I do have a pink countertop in my kitchen








... but it was not my choice...










_Modified by meanvw at 6:43 PM 11-30-2009_


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## QuantumSyncro (Apr 28, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (meanvw)*

watching this thread


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## KhayGTI (May 3, 2009)

watching this thread, i just picked up a 81 caddy diesel.


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## burn_your_money (Oct 4, 2004)

*Re: (Lord_Verminaard)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Lord_Verminaard* »_
DO NOT use the integrated thrust bearing, use the multi-piece bearing like the original. 

Solid advice http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Wooderson (Nov 25, 2001)

The one-piece thrust bearing has been used for decades in millions of engines with zero problems, but one guy on the Vortex has a problem, and then it's a bad design.


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## burn_your_money (Oct 4, 2004)

*Re: (Wooderson)*

Over the years I have read about more then one problem. Whether it was user caused or due to the design it's a risk I would rather avoid


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## Wooderson (Nov 25, 2001)

You have read about more than one problem because on the Vortex the myth that it is a bad design has been spread around by people who are just repeating what they have heard. 
If you align the thrust bearing, which you must do with either type, you won't have any problem. 
The only "problems" I have ever read about are on the Vortex, and at that, I have yet to see anyone who has personally had it happen to them.
This is like the "slow the coolant down in the radiator so it doesn't overheat myth."


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## ajz9415 (Feb 7, 2005)

*Re: (Wooderson)*

Watching this build for motivation


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## rs899 (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (ajz9415)*

"The only "problems" I have ever read about are on the Vortex, and at that, I have yet to see anyone who has personally had it happen to them." 
Can you see me?
I bought a rebuilt shortblock1.6NA and the stupid center thrustbearing (new style) wore out in 30K miles. I rebuilt an engine myself with the same thing and so far it has gone 200K miles without incident. And I never sit with the clutch in and don't start it with the clutch in...

go figure
Rick


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## Lord_Verminaard (Apr 6, 2004)

*Re: (Wooderson)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Wooderson* »_The one-piece thrust bearing has been used for decades in millions of engines with zero problems, but one guy on the Vortex has a problem, and then it's a bad design.

I've witnessed at least a dozen crank failures due to the integrated design. All on 020-equipped cars, I would imagine it would be less on hydro-clutch cars, but why take the risk.
Brendan


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## meanvw (Jan 1, 2005)

*Re: (Lord_Verminaard)*

Parts arrived, but so did the snow and cold.
I was hoping to make some progress tonight, but after about 30 minutes of searching, I cannot locate the assembly lube or the pasti-gauge that I thought I had laying around...Also forgot to bring home the "nice" digital torque wrench from work... so looks like a few more pictures will be all for this week's progress








In the mean time. Here's $17 lower end gasket set. Looks to be very complete. Even several things there that I have no idea what they are for!









Ring set









Rod and Main bearings








I guess I would like to listen to advice here and use the multiple piece center main bearing, but looks like that will require me to buy another whole $40 set of mains just to get an extra bearing to use for the center, and then I guess just re-use the other 4 side pieces over again? 



_Modified by meanvw at 5:56 PM 12-12-2009_


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## meanvw (Jan 1, 2005)

*Re: (meanvw)*

Another cool thing to comment on that I stumbled across this week.
http://www.vwparts.com/parts-outlet-center/
Got a brand new old stock starter for the car for $29. 
The list is not that user friendly in that you have to do a lot flip flopping between etka and google searches to find out what application most of these parts on the list are for, but when you do find something, just contact your local dealer parts dept. Close out pricing comes right up when they order the part for you.


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## Wooderson (Nov 25, 2001)

*Re: (Lord_Verminaard)*

The reason you are seeing the thrust bearing wear is from people who don't know to align the thrust bearing. It's a simple procedure, but obviously too much for some of you. I've been building engines for many years, and I don't have any problem with the one piece design. 
Don't blame the design on your lack of knowledge.


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## meanvw (Jan 1, 2005)

*Re: (Wooderson)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Wooderson* »_... It's a simple procedure....

Some detail please. I do have a Bentley, I don't have it memorized, but I've looked at it briefly, and do not recall there being anything about aligning the bearing, only something about using plastigauge to verify correct tolerance once caps are torqued down.
Thanks!


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## Wooderson (Nov 25, 2001)

You set the thrust bearing by installing only that main cap, and only at about 10 foot pounds of torque. Then using a soft mallet, hit the front end of the crank, then the rear. Now, install all caps and torque to spec. You won't find that in the Bentley, but it's common to all engine building. Their is no issue, if you use this procedure. 
The reason you hit the rear end of the crank last, is to make sure that side of the thrust bearing is perfectly aligned for when the clutch is pushed in, and the crank is pushed forward. 
If you change the bearings while the engine is in the car, you pry the crank back and forth, instead of striking it, to achieve the same result.


_Modified by Wooderson at 4:02 PM 12-13-2009_


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## sirmeeps (Jun 19, 2007)

*Re: (Wooderson)*

I would suggest against using those piston rings. They are chrome and will not seat well. Just got done going through with that problem....Had a runaway. Get a German set that isnt chrome. Just sayin.


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## Lord_Verminaard (Apr 6, 2004)

*Re: (Wooderson)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Wooderson* »_The reason you are seeing the thrust bearing wear is from people who don't know to align the thrust bearing. It's a simple procedure, but obviously too much for some of you. I've been building engines for many years, and I don't have any problem with the one piece design. 
Don't blame the design on your lack of knowledge.

You don't have to be a dick about it. I'll keep using the 3-piece.
Brendan


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## Wooderson (Nov 25, 2001)

*Re: (Lord_Verminaard)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Lord_Verminaard* »_
You don't have to be a dick about it. I'll keep using the 3-piece.
Brendan

People like yourselves, when faced with the reality that they are wrong, respond with a comment like you just did. You would rather stew in your own ignorance, than admit you have no idea what you're talking about.
I laugh at people who make claims based on heresay, and rumor. You're the type of person who just follows the crowd, and can't think for yourself. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


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## burn_your_money (Oct 4, 2004)

*Re: (Wooderson)*

How's about we just all agree to disagree. You're wrong, I'm wrong, the whole world's wrong. But I think that also means everyone is right








I'm sure the OP appreciates the input but we can probably move on from here.


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## meanvw (Jan 1, 2005)

*Re: (sirmeeps)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sirmeeps* »_I would suggest against using those piston rings. They are chrome and will not seat well. Just got done going through with that problem....Had a runaway. Get a German set that isnt chrome. Just sayin.









http://www.grantpistonrings.co...t.htm
Just went and compared the new rings to the others (i currently have 3 different vw diesel motors apart in the garage). All the used motors which may or may not have been previously rebuilt- (but what are the chances all 3 were??) appear to be the same in that the top and bottom rings appear to be chrome, and the middle ring is just a dull metal. 
What do the "german" rings look like, or how would they differ?
What about a chrome ring would cause a run away?
I do appreciate the advice and discussion on the different things about the different main bearings.










_Modified by meanvw at 7:23 PM 12-17-2009_


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## maxfax3 (Apr 30, 2008)

*Re: (meanvw)*

The chrome rings are very hard, and take eons to seat (wear in) to the cylinder bores.. Because of a less than ideal seal of the rings you'll get blowby gasses in the crankcase.. These blowby gasses along with some oil will either be vented into the intake, or be sucked past the rings on the intake stroke.. Since a diesel engine will run on about darn near anything that'll burn It will start runnin on the fumes and oil.. The result=Not pretty..
Now for the other side of this coin, I have used Grant rings as well as some others with very good results... I feel that if you have a good hone job on the cylinders you'll be fine.. I'm not going to say they are as good as German rings, but for the price they seem to be a good second...
AS far as main bearings.. I've torn apart engines with the 3 piece and one piece thrust bearing.. I've seen them both fail, and both hold up.. I've assembled engines with either as well, good results every time.. It's all boils down to proper installation and not riding the clutch..

There, now not only is it a beaten dead horse, it's ground horse meat!










_Modified by maxfax3 at 2:40 AM 12-18-2009_


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## sirmeeps (Jun 19, 2007)

*Re: (maxfax3)*

^My point exactly. The German Rings as compared to the Grants are very dull. Like he said they don't seat well and I did a ****ty job on my hone first time around. It ran away after 1000 miles. Just sayin.


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## Lord_Verminaard (Apr 6, 2004)

*Re: (Wooderson)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Wooderson* »_
People like yourselves, when faced with the reality that they are wrong, respond with a comment like you just did. You would rather stew in your own ignorance, than admit you have no idea what you're talking about.
I laugh at people who make claims based on heresay, and rumor. You're the type of person who just follows the crowd, and can't think for yourself. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 

I love the internets. 
You could have just posted the install procedure and the facts without the attitude. That would not have caused me to respond the way I did. I'll gladly admit when I'm wrong. I have never, EVER heard any defense of the integrated design bearing, only multiple examples of how they fail and I took the advice of other engine builders, and vw parts retailers, who say to use the multi-piece bearing instead. 
Your information is new to me and I thank you for posting it. But you can't expect, especially on an online forum, to insult someone without some sort of recourse.
Brendan


_Modified by Lord_Verminaard at 12:24 PM 12-21-2009_


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## Wooderson (Nov 25, 2001)

Your multiple advice is from people who have no idea what they are talking about. They're not engine builders.


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## meanvw (Jan 1, 2005)

*Re: 1.6L Engine Rebuild (meanvw)*

OK. time to make some progress now that holidays are past.








An expected high of 14 degrees today (and we're not there yet) means I'm working off the kitchen counter as we clean up the dishes from last night's events.
















Removed oil squirters to get ready to run the hone in the cylinders, and to install new rings/pistons. If you ever wondered what it would take to install oil squirters into a n/a block- Which I was wondering before I found this one, well, here are some pics. 
















Will be trying to make some nice progress throughout the weekend to atleast get rotating assembly back together so I can measure deck height and order a head gasket next week.
Oil squirters appear to have a spring loaded piston which seems to keep them from squirting until a certain amount of pressure is built up.


_Modified by meanvw at 9:48 AM 1-1-2010_


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## meanvw (Jan 1, 2005)

*Re: 1.6L Engine Rebuild (meanvw)*

Welcome to page 2-
Made some more progress today on the bottom of page 1 for those playing along.
Watched a few youtube videos, looked at a couple other forums (harley and chevy), and went to town on de-glazing the cylinders. Mechanics at work suggested that WD40 would be as good as anything to use to keep the stones on the cylinder hone from clogging up.
I found that getting the cross-hatch pattern was easy sitting with the block between my feet and knees, and gauging how fast to operate the drill and how fast to go up and down in the cylinders by watching the trail of oil left behind by the stones in the cylinders (dont know if that's a good explanation- but can't think of another way to say it)
To get everything back to super clean, I put the whole block into the sink, and scrubbed everything using detergent, rinse, blow everthing out with air, and then more WD40 to get rid of any residual water.
With the 2 cameras I own which are both autofocus, I cant seem to get a better upclose picture of the cross-hatching, but this one looks as good as any.
Now to assembly!










_Modified by meanvw at 1:19 PM 1-1-2010_


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## ashleyroemk1 (Jan 9, 2007)

*Re: 1.6L Engine Rebuild (meanvw)*

awesome.
my car was originally a barn find too. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## meanvw (Jan 1, 2005)

*Re: 1.6L Engine Rebuild (ashleyroemk1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ashleyroemk1* »_awesome.
my car was originally a barn find too. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

WOW! Very nice work! ---> http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3980968


_Modified by meanvw at 4:00 PM 1-1-2010_


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## meanvw (Jan 1, 2005)

*Re: 1.6L Engine Rebuild (meanvw)*

















Another day of following my Bentley Bible... Everything checking out OK so far.


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## diive4sho (Feb 7, 2004)

*Re: 1.6L Engine Rebuild (meanvw)*

Keeping my eye on this build thread. I'm getting ready to rebuild my 1.6 and throw on one of the VNT-15's I have lying around.


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## the4ork (Mar 10, 2003)

*Re: 1.6L Engine Rebuild (diive4sho)*

good job. i had ALOT of problems trying to find the correct bearings... seems every brand i ordered were the one piece bearings with the integrated CRAPPY thrust bearing.... the mulit-peice are the way to go. the failure my engine had was the one piece bearing wore the thrust portion out of it... i ended up having to get my crank turned and now i have to have oversized bearings....
i decided to scrap the project as the block was mechanical non turbo and i'd prefer a hydraulic TD engine like you have
im looking at all options for my mk1 tho, as it will likely be the car i keep for a VERY long time


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## Wooderson (Nov 25, 2001)

*Re: 1.6L Engine Rebuild (the4ork)*


_Quote, originally posted by *the4ork* »_good job. i had ALOT of problems trying to find the correct bearings... seems every brand i ordered were the one piece bearings with the integrated CRAPPY thrust bearing.... the mulit-peice are the way to go. the failure my engine had was the one piece bearing wore the thrust portion out of it... i ended up having to get my crank turned and now i have to have oversized bearings....


The problem was that you didn't align the thrust bearing. Isn't it amazing that I don't have any problems with the one piece thrust bearings?? I wonder why that is??


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## the4ork (Mar 10, 2003)

*Re: 1.6L Engine Rebuild (Wooderson)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Wooderson* »_
The problem was that you didn't align the thrust bearing. Isn't it amazing that I don't have any problems with the one piece thrust bearings?? I wonder why that is??

i didnt rebuild the engine, i bought the car like that and had engine failure after about 10k
the machinist i used said every old vw diesel engine he's ever had work done to had bearing failure if it had the 1 piece bearing


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## Wooderson (Nov 25, 2001)

That machinist was probably seeing engines that someone before him had not properly aligned the thrust bearing. If they had, the bearing would not have failed.


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## the4ork (Mar 10, 2003)

*Re: (Wooderson)*

he said something about the 1 piece bearing wears the thrust area down quicker because of the material they used, over time the wear becomes more and more due to play with an eventual premature failure.


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## Wooderson (Nov 25, 2001)

If the endplay is correct, the bearing will wear normally. I have them both in my diesel, and my gasoline Rabbits with zero problems.


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## diive4sho (Feb 7, 2004)

*Re: (Wooderson)*

congratulations buddy.... let it go so we can move on with the OP's topic.


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## Wooderson (Nov 25, 2001)

*Re: (diive4sho)*


_Quote, originally posted by *diive4sho* »_congratulations buddy.... let it go so we can move on with the OP's topic. 

Another punk response. 
Would you rather hear misinformation?? That seems to be common on the Vortex. I post on how to align the bearing, and someone still comes along and calls the bearings garbage. That is pathetic. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
Some of you guys can't think clearly, due to your narrow-minded views. By all means, stew in your ignorance and flawed reasoning. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


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## maxfax3 (Apr 30, 2008)

*Re: (Wooderson)*

I think this was addressed a few posts back.. Both can be fine, both can be garbage.. It's all in the installation. The quality of bearings will make a difference too.. Now for ALL involved let's indeed get on with it...
All the facts and opinions have been stated repeatedly.. If this argument must continue start a thread for it...




_Modified by maxfax3 at 7:31 PM 1-7-2010_


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## meanvw (Jan 1, 2005)

*Re: (maxfax3)*









Bottom end is back together. Unfortunately daytime high was 8 degrees, so progress is slow... Will pick up pace soon. Forgot to bring home tool to measure deck height, but ordering head gasket, head bolts, for sure next week. Going to start to disassemble the head tomorrow.


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## meanvw (Jan 1, 2005)

*Re: (meanvw)*

















Well, officially have a deadline for completion... 5/22/10 is the first GTG of the year. The car needs a lot of other miscellaneous attention, so I'm shooting for 4/1/10 to get motor finished.
Today, took the head apart, inspected everything, taking it in to work to throw it in the parts washer cabinet tomorrow. Everything looks super on the head. Looks like the head may be a recent rebuild. Valves clean, everything pretty cool. Going to lightly lap the valves and re-assemble and call it a day.
Also plan on taking the injectors apart and inspecting. Maybe new nozzles atleast.


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## Variety=Spice (Feb 9, 2006)

*Re: (meanvw)*

your thread is good timing for me. I pulled my head today to get ready for a rebuild. I had low compression in 3 cylinders and no compression in #4. I'm appreciating all the info here.


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## meanvw (Jan 1, 2005)

*Re: 1.6L Engine Rebuild (meanvw)*

Head Gasket. So different from a gasoline engine where "one size fits all" for a particular motor, the diesel has several different headgaskets.
They go from 1 to 3 notches. The notches indicate the thickness of the head gasket. 1 notch is 1.40mm thick, 2 notch is 1.50mm thick, 3 notch is 1.60mm thick.
On the diesel the pistons protrude (stick out) above the top of the motor block deck. The cylinder head is also completely flat. End result is that you need the right head gasket to get the right compression. 
If you start with a short block like I did with no head/head gasket on it, then you've gotta measure. 
So you've gotta borrow some tools...








And then you measure your piston projection








My projection was .033in which is really the bottom end of the scale for the 2 notch gasket.
So Finally ordering parts.








Working on getting head cleaned up. Will be "lapping" or re-seating the valves this weekened. Working on getting some other accessory parts cleaned up. Got this heatwave going (all the way up to 18 degrees) ... so time to get some work done.
Giving myself until April 1 to get this done... That's 2 months, but still need to step up the pace on this project if it's going to be ready for spring.


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## meanvw (Jan 1, 2005)

*Re: 1.6L Engine Rebuild (meanvw)*

For those playing along at home. Spent so far $162 on parts and that should be the total for re-build and assembly of the long block. I need to start selling some parts... So far the new parts I paid for off the proceeds of selling off some old parts I had laying around. This last order tapped out my paypal account, so I need to post and sell some more stuff.
Still planning on re-furbishing the injection pump with all new seals (governor mod right away). Going to rebuild injectors with new nozzles.



_Modified by meanvw at 9:20 AM 1-30-2010_


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## meanvw (Jan 1, 2005)

*Re: 1.6L Engine Rebuild (meanvw)*

More Parts Arrived Friday...








Nice complete top end set from Autohaus AZ.
Intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, the little injector washers, valve cover, cam seal, the valve stem oil seals and a bunch more mystery gaskets that I'm sure I'll find a use for as we re-assemble.
Also 2 notch headgasket, and new head bolts
Today's order of business... Lapping the valves...








removing the old valve stem seals is sort of a pain in the ... but with patience they come out with a locking needle nose... protect the area where the lifter rides by putting duct tape over the needle nose. wiggle, pull, wiggle pull.. about 5 minutes of patience required on each one. They make a tool for this, but $40 for the tool and not available in in any store around me. Autozone didn't have it as a "loaner tool" either...
















These 2 things around $10 total for both. all that's needed for valve lapping.
Search youtube videos and watch 1/2 dozen tutorials...

























Shiney valve before lapping....








Same valve after








The seat after...



_Modified by meanvw at 5:06 PM 2-6-2010_


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## meanvw (Jan 1, 2005)

*Re: 1.6L Engine Rebuild (meanvw)*

So.... being super-extra careful because I've taken the gear off a cam before, and I expect that there would be a little "key" in there... I take this one apart. watching carefully for the key... no key.








Cam would appear that there's a slot for a key... but gear does not...








There's a little rust spot on the gear that matched up with the slot on the cam... so I marked some paint marks to line it up on the way back together after I replace the oil seal...
So the question is... Should there be a key? And if so, why doesn't the gear have a notch as well?


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## meanvw (Jan 1, 2005)

*Re: 1.6L Engine Rebuild (meanvw)*









2 done, next one has the new valve stem seal....








And this is what a good day's victory looks like!


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## Vincent Waldon (Jan 9, 2007)

*Re: 1.6L Engine Rebuild (meanvw)*

There is no key.
When you time it you'll need infinitely fine adjustability.


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## diive4sho (Feb 7, 2004)

*Re: 1.6L Engine Rebuild (Vincent Waldon)*

keep up the good work!
I just dropped the 1.6 out of my rabbit and put a new headgasket on my 1.5 and threw that motor in the rabbit. This way I can rebuild my 1.6!!! woo hoo


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## Lord_Verminaard (Apr 6, 2004)

*Re: 1.6L Engine Rebuild (Vincent Waldon)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Vincent Waldon* »_There is no key.
When you time it you'll need infinitely fine adjustability.

This.
Also, make sure you use brake cleaner on the tapered part of the cam and on the inner surface of the cam sprocket, make sure they are both spotless and clean and free of grease, oil, etc. and be sure to torque it properly. I think the bentley says 35 ft-lbs, I go to 35, then strike the bolt lightly with a hammer, then torque it to 40 ft-lbs to be safe.
Brendan


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## iDubber.com (Nov 3, 2008)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *rookdubdoc* »_Suscribed...


me too... good stuff going on in here


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## the4ork (Mar 10, 2003)

*Re: 1.6L Engine Rebuild (meanvw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *meanvw* »_










somone correct me if im wrong... but i believe you can ditch that gay cork vc gasket and run the rubber g60 gasket http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## ashleyroemk1 (Jan 9, 2007)

*Re: 1.6L Engine Rebuild (meanvw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *meanvw* »_
WOW! Very nice work! ---> http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3980968

_Modified by meanvw at 4:00 PM 1-1-2010_

hey thanks!


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## diive4sho (Feb 7, 2004)

*Re: 1.6L Engine Rebuild (the4ork)*


_Quote, originally posted by *the4ork* »_
somone correct me if im wrong... but i believe you can ditch that gay cork vc gasket and run the rubber g60 gasket http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

correct... the g60 gasket is not multipiece and it is reusable.
I have that a the windage tray with pan gasket built in... no leaks here


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## meanvw (Jan 1, 2005)

*Re: 1.6L Engine Rebuild (diive4sho)*









Injectors apart.... Looking for new nozzles if someone has suggestion on a good source for them. Going to check dealership. Also looks like VW parts place has them too at $17 per nozzle. Seen some on e-bay for $51.50 for the set, but have not hard terrific things about the seller.
Vince Waldon has very nice write up on injectors on his site. THANKS!
Am thinking on building a pop tester using an old porta-power pump... still trying to figure that out... seems like that'll run $50+ to build.
I think I may find that $31 per injector for a rebuilt one is cheaper than what I can get nozzles and build my own pop tester for...
Found this place that is relatively local to me.
http://www.mwfi.com/dieselPage/VW_Diesel_Parts.htm


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## Lord_Verminaard (Apr 6, 2004)

*Re: 1.6L Engine Rebuild (meanvw)*

I paid $150 for a local place to rebuild mine.
They installed new Bosch nozzles, blasted/cleaned the bodies and anodized them, and set the breaking pressure to TD spec. (They were NA injectors) They also threw in a set of heatshields and a rubber cap for the return port. For something as precice as an injector, I'd pay someone to do it. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I looked in to building a pop tester but it would have cost me more in the long run and at the end of the day I still wouldn't have known what I was doing.








Brendan


_Modified by Lord_Verminaard at 10:09 AM 2-12-2010_


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## meanvw (Jan 1, 2005)

*Re: 1.6L Engine Rebuild (Lord_Verminaard)*

Along the way I have acquired various odds and ends. One of these odds and ends was a seized up injection pump. Wanting to build confidence in what it would take to re-seal my good injection pump, with cold temps/nothing better to do, and inspired by this thread:
http://www.vwdieselparts.com/f...=6694
When all said and done... looked a little something like this.








My CSI skills think that one of the screws that hold the rotor cover broke, and the other was starting to deform.








With things able to move around inside the pump more than they should have been able to, the Rotor started to machine itself against the cover, and the vanes were actually machined-stuck to the rotor and unable to move/do their job. Didn't take much to un-stick them , but now they have metal "burrs" on them still which keep them from moving freely








And somewhere along the way the main shaft bearings were also crapping out and amost seized up on the shaft.








And the roller carrier machinging itself into the case

















Next week I'll dig into my good pump and see what she looks like.
Again this was just a confidence builder since I had this junk pump lying around.
If someone thinks this is repairable, chime in. I am curious if extra parts are available like the rotor and vanes?
Also if there is a bible out there on the principal of how these pumps work...Point me towards some linka.



_Modified by meanvw at 3:11 PM 2-14-2010_


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## meanvw (Jan 1, 2005)

*Re: 1.6L Engine Rebuild (meanvw)*

Item #2 of the weekend is Oil Pumps.
I understand that some will bicker now that an oil pump should never be re-used. I am familiar with that argument from my air cooled VW days... but I disassembled and checked these 2 according to my bentley, and they're both OK.
Also I unfortunately did not win the lottery again this weekend, so I need to continue to re-use and re-build stuff. 
The one on the left is german and appears to be a newer style. The one on the right is brazilian and is older style. Both have same size gears....same shaft, etc.


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## maxfax3 (Apr 30, 2008)

*Re: 1.6L Engine Rebuild (meanvw)*

The VW oil pumps tend to hold up well.. If it checks out good use it.. I've only replaced a few over the years, mostly from engines that had super high miles or catastrophic bearing failure.. 

I think Bosch themselves have a tech manual out there on the IP.. 
"Diesel Distributor Fuel-Injection Pumps VE" They give an order number on this of 1 987 722 164 I guess that's the same thing as like a part number...


_Modified by maxfax3 at 2:19 AM 2-15-2010_


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## 2pt_slo_Mk3 (Jan 10, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (meanvw)*

subscribed http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
i'll be heading back to WI w/ my new aquired 90 jetta. 1.6 na..
thinking about rebuilding it myself as its burning hella oil and injector pump has minor leak. 










_Modified by 2pt_slo_Mk3 at 3:56 AM 2-23-2010_


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## Variety=Spice (Feb 9, 2006)

*Re: 1.6L Engine Rebuild (meanvw)*

re:








The pump I rebuilt had a very similar wear mark. The local Bosch-certified pump rebuilder I bought my kit from was extremely helpful in many ways....one of which was to tell me that that wear mark is typical and nothing to worry about.
...one data point for you.


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## burn_your_money (Oct 4, 2004)

*Re: 1.6L Engine Rebuild (Variety=Spice)*

Your pump looks completely rebuildable to me. Obviously some pieces will need to be replaced. 
As for the oil pumps, the one one the right is from a Vanagon or something like that isn't it?


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## Variety=Spice (Feb 9, 2006)

*Re: 1.6L Engine Rebuild (burn_your_money)*

Here's aphoto of the one I rebuilt. Wear pattern looks almost identical to yours. Bosch guy said it's from the rollers on the advance mechanism.


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## meanvw (Jan 1, 2005)

*Re: 1.6L Engine Rebuild (Variety=Spice)*









Took apart my "good" fuel pump over the weekend.
Glad I did instead of trying to run fuel through it to test it.
Lots of ages old diesel and gunk inside the pump.
Good news is that the parts that were bad in the other pump are good in this one. 2 pumps will be 1 good one with a few left over parts.
Going to get some seals this week from bosch dealer, and get my injector nozzles as well. Found someone local that has a pop tester, so we're back to doing it myself.
Still lookin like I'm on track to get this bugger fired the first week of april.


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## meanvw (Jan 1, 2005)

Well here's another update since it's finally up and running now. Just in time for her to move under her own power out of our 1 car garage, and make room for my wife's car this winter. 

Lost momentum over the summer with getting this engine done. Was working a bunch on the interior (swapped from beige to blue) and cleaned up the floors on the rabbit. Deleted A/C, and switched over from power steering to manual steering. Also cleaned up engine bay.


















I came across another used engine that the guy thought just needed a head gasket. Got this 1.6, plus a 5 speed, plus a couple no-A/C alternator setups, plus a harness, and cant remember what all else. Got all that stuff for the $90 I had in my pocket at the time. Pretty decent deal. 

Still had a bunch of hours left in putting together the re-furbished motor, and figured I could run this used one out for the summer.... Put a new head gasket on this motor, but compression still way low. Suspect that it needs rings, and the head probably needs decked. But.... still wasted 2 weekends putting it together and in car to find out it did not run. :banghead:


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## meanvw (Jan 1, 2005)

So after that setback, decided to push through getting the new (rebuilt) motor finished.

Little video for you:




:wave::wave::wave::wave::wave::wave::wave::wave::wave::wave::wave:


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## meanvw (Jan 1, 2005)

So for those playing along at home .... Drum roll for the grand total.... 

opcorn:

$322.45 to rebuild entire engine, head, injection pump, and injectors.
Here's the complete list:

Autohauz AZ
6050780581 Fuel Hose/Line; Braided Hose 3.2mm ID x 1.9mm Wall; Bulk $3.32 
068130309 Fuel Hose/Line; Fuel Pipe from Filter to Pump $14.17 
0009871145 Vacuum Hose/Line; Diesel Injector Overflow Line End Plug; Hose Plug $0.84 
026103547 Valve Cover Oil Deflector $5.69 
068109119E Timing Belt $14.43 
068109243F Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley/Roller; Metal Roller $20.87 
068103384A qty 10 Cylinder Head Bolt; 12x115mm total $17.40 
068198012D Cylinder Head Gasket Set; Without Head Gasket $31.02 
068103383AF Cylinder Head Gasket; 1.5mm 2 Groove $22.26 
037198011C Block/Lower Engine Gasket Set $17.06 
034105701 Connecting Rod Bearing Set; Standard with Journal Oil Holes $14.98 
056198451A Main Bearing Set; Standard $37.99 
068198151A Piston Ring Set; Standard 76.50mm $21.57 
--Total to rebuild engine and head-- $221.60

From Bosch dealer:
0434250103 qty 4 injector nozzle total $80.40
dgk126 injection pump gasket kit $12.70
1460283312 injection pump radial seal $7.75
--Total to rebuild injection pump and injectors --$100.85


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## meanvw (Jan 1, 2005)

Overall, very decent experience doing this. Bentley manual was a must. 

Thanks go out:

Autohausaz - love the website, love the selection, love the prices, love the free shipping. Ever since parts4vws closed up shop... these folks have become my #1 place to order from.

partsplaceinc- great catalog. great website. neat company. Bought injection pump timing tool kit from them. Really great stuff. Also picked up a "filter kit" for the car- air, oil, fuel, etc. How about a company that you can call, ask a question, get a correct answer-- And a great attitude!

vincewaldon- thanks for your website and the how to's. Really helped with the injectors and the timing. The timing write up especially saved a ton of trouble. good reminders to check all the right things as you go through that process so you dont miss a step and mess up your new motor.

and thanks to those who replied to this thread, and by PM along the way with helpful tips.



Next step is to finish hooking up accessories, get a radiator in, etc, etc,etc.
Will post some updates. Not very likely I will use this car much until spring time when the snow and salt is off the roads. For now a little more work, and then she will be tucked in for the winter next to my Scirocco (16vG60). For whatever reason (probably mostly unfamiliarity with diesel motors)... I want to say it was almost tougher getting this diesel going than it was supercharging that Scirocco :screwy:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4157368-Meanvw-16V-G60-Winter-project-V2.0


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## bigger daddy (Sep 8, 2005)

awesome! I also use AutohausAZ alot, I may be doing this soon, hopefully my barn find has a good block and head in it


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## meanvw (Jan 1, 2005)

So I kind of forgot about this thread... but getting back into doing some updates on the rabbit. 
Seen all the views this thing has gotten, and figured I'd finish the story and add some more info. 

Shortly after completing the rebuild, and getting the car running, I ran the gauntlet of repairs to all the rest of the systems of the car.... brakes, power brake booster, master cylinder, axle boots, etc,etc,etc (and did I mention etc)... 

Got to driving this thing (160 mile total - 80 mile each way per day) commute.... yes. crazy. 

After about a month of running it n/a... I decided I needed more power and set out to piece together all the turbo parts... figuring that would take quite awhile... 

Found about 75% of them a week later on craigs list. Got the rest from a junk yard... one item from a gentleman on the vwdiesel.net site. 

All my turbo stuff was off a Jetta Eco diesel. K14 turbo, intake and exhaust mani. kept my n/a pump. 










so parts list for that is : 
Intake manifold 
Turbo 
Exhaust manifold 
Oil pan with return line 
oil feed line 
oil filter housing with fitting for feed line 
water hoses (I choose to add the oil cooler/warmer that sits right before the oil filter) 
heat shield rain tray to firewall 
MK1 ONLY cast elbow from turbo to exhaust toilet bowl. 
Intake elbow (cold side to air cleaner) 

disassembled turbo and replaced cold side seal. 
got the waste gate unstuck and "lapped" it so that it sealed. 

little this / little that / and ended up looking like this


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