# 1.8t awp VVT delete ..need help



## baracuda (Sep 17, 2004)

i had the timing chain tensioner removed and the replacement was a non-vvt now i dont want to buy a new one since the one i got i cant return it 

i heard that there is a mod with ressistors but i dont have the old one to messure the resistance 
can someone give me advice?? 

thanx in advance


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

should'e kept it, it helps spool and bottom end.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

vvt helps spool and bottom end? I was under the impression vvt was only for emission purposes ?


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## NeverGiveUp (Jan 6, 2004)

Yes only for emission purpose.


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## baracuda (Sep 17, 2004)

Vegeta Gti said:


> should'e kept it, it helps spool and bottom end.


 it was broke and they got my order wrong and on top of that i cant find the old one to just plug it in 
i need the car badly 
that is the sad story behind the ordeal ...i got no truble from it but the engine check light is on 
and that is the reason i want to delete it


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## baracuda (Sep 17, 2004)

anyone ???


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## machx0r (Feb 25, 2001)

baracuda said:


> anyone ???


 My understanding was that the "delete" was an ECU software modification. 

The electrical part of the VVT tensioner is a simple solenoid that (apparently) either restricts or increases (I'm not sure) oil pressure to the tensioner. So the two connector plug is simply a switched positive and ground wire. 

Doubt the ECU would be looking for resistance from the solenoid to cause a CEL. More likely your CEL is something like "16395 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake): Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)" which comes from the camshaft position sensor because the tensioner is no longer adjusting timing when the ECU expects it to be. 

Most of this is assumption on my part, and maybe someone else has more intimate knowledge (or you could post the exact code you are getting). 

Either way I have the solenoid from my failed tensioner sitting on the workbench. It's yours if you want to pay for shipping and try plugging it in to see if the CEL goes away (I don't think it will. I have verified the solenoid still works). PM me if you are interested.


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## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

so if you put in a non vvt it wont affect it at all besides throing a code?? 

mines shot on my AWW and im poor... but i can tune it out with maestro i believe


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## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

if u put in a non-vvt it won't run. It has to have the ecu modified in order to operate.


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## natsilver (Sep 2, 2005)

ejg3855 said:


> if u put in a non-vvt it won't run. It has to have the ecu modified in order to operate.


 It will run, but the CEL will light up.


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## jettawlfsbrg01 (May 1, 2008)

Okay I am giving a review of experience of swapping to an AEB head and went with the manual tensioner after going 50 trim. 

If you just put in the manual tensioner without unitronic or eurodyne which have the sw deletes, there is nothing you can do except put a resistor in for 1 of the codes that will pop a check engine light that gives you a rough idle. It is the camshaft bank 1 over retarded which makes the idle a little more smooth. 

I used a solinoid from the N249 trey and plugged it into the vvt tensioner connector (got the idea from velocity :thumbup that gave me a smooth idle but i still have a check engine light from camshaft over retarded, but after talking with him and vegeta gti also BIG turbo. It does kill low end power and takes a slice of spool away as i used to rip through 1st and chirped 2nd and now i can barley lose 1st. So yes your car will run, but you WILL lose low end power and spool.


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## velocity196 (Feb 19, 2006)

ejg3855 said:


> if u put in a non-vvt it won't run. It has to have the ecu modified in order to operate.


 Dude ur on crack! It's run it just won't trim fuel and gives a codel. Stick any solenoid that you have laying around like a n249 or n112. Or get yourself a 15w 300 ohm resister. I personal just made the change to a non vvt tension cuz it's clean looking with no software update. It didn't trim after the code poped up so I stuck a gold colored n112 I think its called on the plug and POOF, magical smurfs made the cel go away AND fuel trim. Me, I said screw a resister. The solenoid fixed my problem so I just hid it between the water flange and the head lol.


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## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

velocity196 said:


> Dude ur on crack! It's run it just won't trim fuel and gives a codel. Stick any solenoid that you have laying around like a n249 or n112. Or get yourself a 15w 300 ohm resister. I personal just made the change to a non vvt tension cuz it's clean looking with no software update. It didn't trim after the code poped up so I stuck a gold colored n112 I think its called on the plug and POOF, magical smurfs made the cel go away AND fuel trim. Me, I said screw a resister. The solenoid fixed my problem so I just hid it between the water flange and the head lol.


 thanks guys... like i said i have maestro so it can be tuned out... thanks guys


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## velocity196 (Feb 19, 2006)

jettawlfsbrg01 said:


> Okay I am giving a review of experience of swapping to an AEB head and went with the manual tensioner after going 50 trim.
> 
> If you just put in the manual tensioner without unitronic or eurodyne which have the sw deletes, there is nothing you can do except put a resistor in for 1 of the codes that will pop a check engine light that gives you a rough idle. It is the camshaft bank 1 over retarded which makes the idle a little more smooth.
> 
> I used a solinoid from the N249 trey and plugged it into the vvt tensioner connector (got the idea from velocity :thumbup that gave me a smooth idle but i still have a check engine light from camshaft over retarded, but after talking with him and vegeta gti also BIG turbo. It does kill low end power and takes a slice of spool away as i used to rip through 1st and chirped 2nd and now i can barley lose 1st. So yes your car will run, but you WILL lose low end power and spool.


 Andrew I think you might have something else wrong like timing off on the cams or something. I don't get that cam retarded code. Like I said I only have sai, n75, evap, and n80 and 112 I think they are called deleted. I had uni leave vvt and never wrote it off. Eventually I'll get it written off but not before I do a injector increase for the new motor and turbo. So it might be worth checking into to make sure mechanical timing is 100%. Just bolting up a non vvt shouldn't give a retarded code. lol I mean retarded "cam" code  
Al


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## jettawlfsbrg01 (May 1, 2008)

I was under the impression that the purpose of the camshaft adjuster is to 
advance the intake valve opening during a cold 
start . This allows for the intake to scavenge 
more of the exhaust gasses and generate heat 
in the intake faster , thus reducing emissions. 
This is an integral part of the 1 .8 T meeting the 
ULEV standards . If the cam adjuster doesn' t 
work properly the intake cam will not advance 
on a cold start and you will get a code P 0012. 
After the car is up to temperature the intake 
cam returns to its normal operating offset . 

So I thought it wasn't to big if a deal and I did timing myself less than 8k ago and don't hear a rattle from the tensioner, but I will look more into it. Like I said I might go back to the electronic vvt anyway. Thanks for looking out


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## velocity196 (Feb 19, 2006)

jettawlfsbrg01 said:


> I was under the impression that the purpose of the camshaft adjuster is to
> advance the intake valve opening during a cold
> start . This allows for the intake to scavenge
> more of the exhaust gasses and generate heat
> ...


 i really dont know what vvt does but im gunna ask the brain here in a sec, ill let you guys know what he says :beer:


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## velocity196 (Feb 19, 2006)

velocity196 said:


> i really dont know what vvt does but im gunna ask the brain here in a sec, ill let you guys know what he says :beer:


 ok, vw tech brain says vvt opens the intake cam longer to get more air inside the cyl to accommodate for the extra fuel being sent down stream to warm up both the cat and o2's. both of us thing you might have a tooth off between cams. hope this helps some. :beer:


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## velocity196 (Feb 19, 2006)

velocity196 said:


> ok, vw tech brain says vvt opens the intake cam longer to get more air inside the cyl to accommodate for the extra fuel being sent down stream to warm up both the cat and o2's. both of us thing you might have a tooth off between cams. hope this helps some. :beer:


 one more thing, if you guys are having idle problems try messing with both fuel on startup and fuel on warm up. it will help smooth out lumpy cold starts with no vvt :thumbup:


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## natsilver (Sep 2, 2005)

velocity196 said:


> Just bolting up a non vvt shouldn't give a retarded code. lol I mean retarded "cam" code
> Al


AFAIK bolting up a non-vvt tensioner SHOULD give that code, and there is no way around it unless it is written out of the ECU. It is like all the other emissions devices, the car checks to make sure they are working properly. 
Are you 100% sure that Uni didn't write yours out? You should have that code too if you swapped tensioners.


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## Zrxkalel (May 11, 2021)

velocity196 said:


> one more thing, if you guys are having idle problems try messing with both fuel on startup and fuel on warm up. it will help smooth out lumpy cold starts with no vvt 👍


Yo velocity. You seem to know the deal amd im just trying to get my girls car running so my 5month old has transport... 
Have an 01 1.8t. Timing cover said awp engine code, but its not stamped anywhere its supposed to be. That motor went to ****..
So i bought a motor that when they said was gonna be plug and play, check by 5th digit of vin i guess. but im a little lost on the vvt stuff. 
My OG motor has the Cam solenoid on the passenger side by the timing belt, and nothing on the other side. 
My new motor has the cam solenoid on the pass side, and also has the ??vvt solenoid?? Im guessing.. 
Is it possible for the car to run, if i leave that vvt female end that i dont have a male plug for undone?


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## mdjenkins (Feb 16, 2010)

By "cam solenoid on the passenger side next to the timing belt" I'm guessing you mean the Hall sensor.

The VVT solenoid is part of the cam chain tensioner on wideband setups. Narrowband doesn't have VVT. So I'm guessing you have a wideband ECU and your replacement motor is from a narrowband car.

If I understand you correctly, you should be able to research wideband conversions and get a solution on how to handle the non-VVT tensioner with your VVT harness. Another option is to replace the donor motor's tensioner with a VVT tensioner.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Most awp engines were not stamped

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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