# Need help w/ Rear Brake Pads Replacement



## jet-set (Sep 14, 2006)

Just went to the dealer and they wanted to charge me $480 for new rear pads & rotors on my 2006 Jetta 2.0T. They said the Rotors are still in good shape, but VW recommends to change them every time you change the pads. Does anyone know if this is true? If so, I would like to do the install myself. I've changed brakes a few times on different (older vehicles), is the install about the same? 
I'm guessing I will just have to take off the calipers, pads & rotors and replace them. Do I have to bleed the brakes. I will not be replacing the calipers, so i'm not sure if this needs to be done.
Any input would help as I really don't have the cash to let the dealer replace these.
Thanks!!!


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## kickice24 (Apr 15, 2002)

*Re: Need help w/ Rear Brake Pads Replacement (jet-set)*

You don't have t replace the rotors as long as they are still in spec. You should not need to bleed them if you're not replacing lines/calipers. The rear calipers are most likely twist-in caliper pistons. Heads up for that.


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## TDIMARK (Aug 29, 2001)

$480. for a rear brake job. i would run from that dealer and never go back. $480. will buy you drilled and slotted rotors, pads and the caliper wind back tool and over $200. bucks left. no bad for less than an hour of work.


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

*Re: (TDIMARK)*

If you decide to do rear brakes..here's some info:
Replacing rotors...if the're not destroyed by leaving pads in there too long....but really the issue is how much the're worn down (used to be rotors and brake drums were made extra thick so you could turn em down a couple times and still have some "meat" on there for the final set of lining to wear on during its service life. Car mfgs have taken all that safety margin outa there to seve weight and improve MPG...so for instance on the VW rear rotors there is only 1mm of material over "min thickness spec"....Unless you're really scrimpin I'd just buy new rotors...the're only $30-35 each..and machining em here costs at least $10..most places $15-20..so how much are you really saving?
Not sure if pulling rear rotors on MKV requires removal of caliper carriers..the fronts do. If you have to pull carriers..you'll need a 14mm "triple square" bit..these aren't ez to come by..I got mine off a SnapOn truck..about $35. Also, the carrier bolts are "stretch bolts" with torque spec (66 ft lb plus 1/4 (90 degrees) turn more). Buy these at dealer..DO NOT reuse!
You will need retractor tool (rotates piston while pressing it into caliper)..Autozone has these on its "free loaner tool" shelf here...check it out..DO NOT just take a C clamp and try to squeeze piston into caliper..you'll ruin the hand brake adjusting mechanism in the caliper!








The caliper to carrier lock bolts are speced as "one time use" but that's because they have factory installed locking compound...Locktite Blue is often substituted for buying new bolts. Get a tube of "synthetic caliper grease" at your local parts store to lube the caliper guide pins, and some "brake quiet" for the pad backs unless you buy pads with anti squeal shims built in. good luck! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Just noticed you have 2006 MY...VW reccomends bleeding brakes every other year..DO IT! Get VW spec fluid..it has higher boiling point than regular DOT 4...the MKV bleeding sequence is NOT the same as most other cars...(old sequence RR, LR, RF, LF)
Per Bentley...Left Front, Right Front, Left Rear, Right Rear. They reccomend two step bleeding..first with pressure bleeder (or vaccum bleeder) then 5 "pump bleeds" at each wheel. You could just do pump bleeding for whole process if you do it enuff to get good clear fluid flow..which is what I do...takes less than 30 min to do the whole job....make sure you DO NOT let fluid in master cylinder run dry during bleeding..you'll get air into ABS valve block and then you need a VAG COM computer to cycle the ABS to get the air out..check fluid level often!










_Modified by spitpilot at 12:49 PM 9-29-2008_


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## jet-set (Sep 14, 2006)

*Re: (spitpilot)*

Thanks to all who have chimed in so far. You have been very helpful!!! I also thought $480 was hwy robbery. I almost told the service guy to go and....ok I'll stop right there.
Does anyone know for sure if the caliper carriers have to be pulled on my "06" Jetta in order to replace the rear rotors? Hopefully not as this would be an E-Z job to just pull the rotors and replace the pads and rotors.


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

*Re: (jet-set)*

If I was gonna bet..I'd bet on no carrier removal to do rear discs..that's the way my Passat is set up and I'd bet VW would continue on with that basic design requirement since it makes rear brake jobs ( which seem to wear out faster on VW cars than the fronts) so much ezier and faster to do....I'd just put up a rear wheel and pull the caliper off one side, unscrew the little lock screw for the rotor and you'll know soon whether or not you can get disc outa the carrier...hope someone will chime in....I'd post this question like "MKV Owners...Done Rear Brakes?" on the MKV Forum...then in body ask this question along with general ones like "Any tricks to doing this?" More eyes will look at it and you'll get an answer to this "mystery of life" I'm sure! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## evildemon13 (Oct 28, 2008)

*Re: (spitpilot)*

I just did the rear brakes on my 05.5 Jetta. You gotta have that stupid "triple square" torx bit, and the caliper bracket/carrier DOES have to come off. I just pad-slapped mine due to time constraints and the availability of the tool, {{slaps self on wrist }} but found no problems doing that. If you have vibration in the pedal or metal to metal contact, I'd say you really have no choice but to find the tool and replace the rotors. I intend to do that with mine next trip. Hope this helps.


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## driver bob (Nov 27, 2007)

I just had the same issue, went in for an oil change and auddenly brakes F & R are shot.
Strangely enough all parts are in stock and they have a "special" on right now.
The list (from my service report):
Rear brakes seizing up: C$375 + tax to replace rear pads and rotors.
Rear brake cables seizing up: C$225 + tax to replace cables
Recommended brake fluid flush: C$110 + tax.
Recommended replace F brakes due to rust: C$420 + tax.
Special took C$200 off the total price.
I said "Thanks, but no thanks."
I'm new to all this stuff so any advice on replacement parts would be much appreciated.


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## jet-set (Sep 14, 2006)

*Re: (evildemon13)*

Just did the job last weekend. i was able to find the triple square bit off of E-bay. It was $25, for an entire set. Not a hard job, you just need a little bit of time.
Thanks for the reply


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

*Re: (driver bob)*


_Quote, originally posted by *driver bob* »_I just had the same issue, went in for an oil change and auddenly brakes F & R are shot.
I'm new to all this stuff so any advice on replacement parts would be much appreciated.


Get good OEM quality rotors...ATE, Zimmerman, Brembo..they cost a bit more than the "plain brown box" rotors from China, but at least you know you're getting good quality material..brakes not the place to scrimp....there are websites (Autohaus AZ, Stop Shop Drive, Get Cool Parts) that carry quality parts and have free shippin on orders over $50 (which a brake job will be) so you don't have to worry about weight of rotors! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## driver bob (Nov 27, 2007)

*Re: (spitpilot)*

Thanks for the info.
I was always of the opinion that when parts needed replaced it was worthwhile spending a bit of money on upgrading, especially now warranty is finished.
Free shipping as well, I was so wrapped up in $1000 repair bill I hadn't considered that.
Again, Cheers


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