# Replacement oil pan for 2001 Beetle Turbo?



## hiatt (Aug 11, 2006)

Hi everybody -
A friend of mine had her oil changed at a Kwik Lube here in Nashville. After they destroyed the oil dipstick funnel, she took the car to the local dealer for a repair (which they replaced for $29). While she was there, however, they told her that her oil drain plug had also been stripped by Kwik Lube, and that it would cost $550 to replace the oil pan (and that tapping the threads for a larger plug isn't an option).
I drive a Toyota truck, and have gotten the best information from a similar forum, so I thought I'd ask for advice here on her behalf. Is this a fair price? Are there any good work-arounds short of replacing the pan? Is replacing the pan a big/tricky job on a Beetle that should only be handled by the dealer or an import specialty shop, or can an excellent general independent mechanic shop be expected to handle it? What should she expect to pay?
Thanks -- your expertise is appreciated!


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## peabody58 (Nov 2, 2006)

*Re: Replacement oil pan for 2001 Beetle Turbo? (hiatt)*

Hi hiatt, I know this is a little late to help you out, but this response is at least worth adding to your thread.
I went to the dealer today to have our daughter's 2000 NB (136K) spark plugs changed, and since I was there anyways, asked to have the oil changed.
They told me the oil drain plug was stripped and turning freely.








They wanted over $600 to replace the drain pan.
I said no thanks and since it wasn't leaking any oil, I took it back to our local Speed Lube quick-oil change where they usually change our oil.
Turns out before we bought the car in 2001 (32K), someone had stripped the threads and instead of fixing it with a retap, they used a helicoil. The helicoil had finally worn out, and the drain plug did show some signs of wear and tear.
The lube pros removed the helicoil, retapped the aluminum drain port, and inserted a new original size drain plug. Perfect repair!! And best of all, it only cost $4 to repair. Much better than the $600 plus the dealership wanted to steal from us.
Dealerships will tell you alot of bull about stripped drain plugs, either because they want a lot of $$ replacing your drain pan, or for liability reasons, they aren't allowed to repair the drain ports. I had a nice long talk with the manager of our local Speed Lube and he informed of the following.
1. First try to retap using original size and thread count (this solved my problem). Always use a new drain plug after a retap. This is really easy with the aluminum drain pans.
2. If that doesn't work, drill out damaged threads, retap to larger size and use new larger drain plug. He said he can usually redrill up to two sizes larger before the drain port doesn't have enough base material remaining to support a rethread.
3. Use a helicoil - but only as a last option.
4. Never use the expanding rubber plugs except for an emergency!! They leak and will work or blow themselves out, resulting in a total loss of oil and high potential of engine damage.
5. If you have to have the pan replaced, order a replacement pan on-line (preferably a better quality) and have a local mechanic replace. Will be a lot cheaper and just as good a job.
Hope this helps someone else in a similar dilemma.
So sometimes the local quick lube places are really good! Ours is in a small town and the manager lives in town.


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## Mikes72sb (Oct 27, 2001)

*Re: Replacement oil pan for 2001 Beetle Turbo? (peabody58)*

Buy the steel bottomed OEM oilpan from ECS Tuning and have a trusted mechanic install it, or do it yourself.
http://www.ecstuning.com


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## FastAndFurious (Feb 2, 2002)

*Re: Replacement oil pan for 2001 Beetle Turbo? (Mikes72sb)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Mikes72sb* »_Buy the steel bottomed OEM oilpan from ECS Tuning and have a trusted mechanic install it, or do it yourself.
http://www.ecstuning.com

What he said.^ 
I have the hybrid oilpan and I installed it myself. Although i had trouble removing some of the bolts, its not that hard of a job. I don't know how much stronger it is then the oem one since i haven't really bottomed out on it yet but it should hold better then aluminum and you will pretty much pay around the same price for parts. While your at it, get the ecs magnetic drain plug, they are like 10$


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## kcfoxie (Jul 18, 2005)

note: if you install it yourself you may need a 10mm swivel sicket to get to two of the 10mm bolts that are hear the transmission side of the pan. also you need a special "goo gasket"..it's a sealant. it's like $16 I think at the dealer.
Also remember to scrape the block CLEAN before you put the new pan on, and you'll really want someone to help you (mostly to hold the new pan when you put it on).


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## FastAndFurious (Feb 2, 2002)

*Re: (kcfoxie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kcfoxie* »_note: if you install it yourself you may need a 10mm swivel sicket to get to two of the 10mm bolts that are hear the transmission side of the pan. also you need a special "goo gasket"..it's a sealant. it's like $16 I think at the dealer.
Also remember to scrape the block CLEAN before you put the new pan on, and you'll really want someone to help you (mostly to hold the new pan when you put it on).

Oh yeah i almost forgot I had to make a special tool to get those bolts out, i cut a allen key and bent in certain angles and put it into a socket to get those suckers out. you just reminded me. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## pueblorrado v3.0 (Nov 22, 2006)

*Re: Replacement oil pan for 2001 Beetle Turbo? (peabody58)*


_Quote, originally posted by *peabody58* »_ And best of all, it only cost $4 to repair. 


sounds highly sketchy. to do that properly the pan should be removed and washed and blown dry after the tapping. nobody would r&r an oil pan for four bucks (see: gasket replacement). and if that thing isnt thoroughly cleaned after the tapping, you are gonna have some significantly large metal bits flying around in your engine. not good. and not ferrous. that means the oil pan magnet wont attract them. watch out for that.


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## kcfoxie (Jul 18, 2005)

where is the oil pan magnet? And why would it catch aluminum?


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## peabody58 (Nov 2, 2006)

*Re: Replacement oil pan for 2001 Beetle Turbo? (pueblorrado v3.0)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pueblorrado v3.0* »_sounds highly sketchy. to do that properly the pan should be removed and washed and blown dry after the tapping. nobody would r&r an oil pan for four bucks (see: gasket replacement). and if that thing isnt thoroughly cleaned after the tapping, you are gonna have some significantly large metal bits flying around in your engine. not good.

The $4 was for a new drain plug. Running a same size tap thru the existing threads to ensure it is clean and undamaged - no charge. Having a local oil lube place that values your business and takes car of you like family - priceless. 
As far as 'large amounts' of tapping debris, a simple tap of the threads should not result in much at all. I watched the mechanics as they did this, and they inserted a cloth on a bent rod to clean out any possible debris around the inside of the plug hole. It came out clean - no debris or filings. Plus the oil is drawn thru the filter before it goes to the engine, so if there was any debris, the oil filter would catch it before it got to the engine.


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## pueblorrado v3.0 (Nov 22, 2006)

*Re: Replacement oil pan for 2001 Beetle Turbo? (peabody58)*

i thought you meant like gnurled reamed and tapped. thats not as bad.


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