# Coolant temp questions and fan issues !!



## Gdimovski (Aug 25, 2007)

Yet again, I found more mickey mouse in my kids 99 beetle. Previous owner cut the fan wires, and spliced in a generic relay to turn on the fans when the ignition switch came on. Replaced the fan assembly because the AC fan was busted too. Started the car and it got hot, and no fans. I jumpered the connectors on the harness side of the fan control switch in the radiator, and the fans come on. so I was sure that the problem was with the fan switch, so I swapped it out. Then the temp idiot light on the dash starts blinking like its overheating and I noticed that the fans are still not coming on. I have my odb2 reader plugged in and am watching the coolant temp slowly climb up to 269 degrees F. Thing is, I have no clue what temp the fans are supposed to come on. Or if there is more than one component involved in turning it on. turned on the A/C and the Aux / AC fan comes on. Could use some help, I have been weeding Disney Characters out of this car all weekend, I could use a sanity check!

Thanks in advance!


----------



## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Here is a good place to start: 

http://newbeetle.org/forums/questio...3260-summers-coming-here-check-your-fans.html

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/


----------



## Gdimovski (Aug 25, 2007)

billymade said:


> Here is a good place to start:
> 
> http://newbeetle.org/forums/questio...3260-summers-coming-here-check-your-fans.html
> 
> http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/


ok so, I am beat, and I need to put this out to see if I my thinking is off. I pulled off the connector to the switch that screws into the radiator. I did the test for high and low fan speed. and the fans came on, in both modes. Like I mentioned in the original post, I thought the fan switch screwed into the radiator was bad, so I changed it out with a new one. So I also, did the test where I turn on the AC and turn the key into the on position, and I only see the AC fan come on in low speed. am I imagining things here or seeing as how both of these fans came on in low and high speed when I jumpered the pins in the fan switch connector, shouldn't they both be coming on when I do the test with the AC on? What am I missing? :banghead:


----------



## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Sound right to me; my fans turn on high, when I turn my a/c on. Since your fans work in both; high/low, speeds then I would assume they are functionally ok. The other thing; that controls how the fans act; is the fan control module, that has solenoids in it. Have you done any testing of the FCM? These are known to fail and cause all kinds of problems, as is the fuse panel on top of the battery, as well.

Fan control module location: 

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...ntrol_module/component_information/locations/

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...ponent_information/description_and_operation/

FCM/FAN testing: 

http://www.worldpacwin.com/2007/11/tech-tip-fix-volkswagen-ac-clutch.html

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...d-Fan-control-Module-or-have-fans-run-on-high

https://www.google.com/webhp?source...UTF-8#q=vw+fan+control+module+testing&spell=1

some videos; that show you visually about the FCM and testing walk thru: 

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=vw+fan+control+module

testing: low/high speed: 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WdWNphYF-tE


----------



## Gdimovski (Aug 25, 2007)

billymade said:


> Sound right to me; my fans turn on high, when I turn my a/c on. Since your fans work in both; high/low, speeds then I would assume they are functionally ok. The other thing; that controls how the fans act; is the fan control module, that has solenoids in it. Have you done any testing of the FCM? These are known to fail and cause all kinds of problems, as is the fuse panel on top of the battery, as well.
> 
> Fan control module location:
> 
> ...


ok, Another thing I checked today, I disconnected the return on the overflow and just put it in the top to see how much it was actually flowing. I get nothing. at least not without reving the motor, is it supposed to flow back into the tank even when its cold?. I am thinking that perhaps I have a bad waterpump. Would this cause the radiator fan to not come on? is the coolant in the radiator just not getting hot enough to cause the switch to kick on? or am I looking at "Just another issue"?


----------



## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Check out this thread; there we are dealing with the same issue: check the hose for obstruction and look at the videos, to see how the coolant flow volume should be. I don't know if this is interrelated to your fan issue but if you are not getting coolant flowing, that needs to be repaired for sure. I would check the hose for restrictions, see if the thermostat is stuck and you can also, check to see if your water pump is ok by removing the coolant flange/thermostat and inspecting the water pump impeller. Once you have access to the impeller; check for cracked pieces or if it spins on the shaft (the original wp's impellers; were made out of plastic). Look at the link below; for more info. 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...l-Pressure-and-Cooling-questions-post-rebuild

Note: when I had air pockets inside the block; the coolant was not up to the level of the sensors, so the fans would not kick on (this maybe a issue for you?).


----------



## Gdimovski (Aug 25, 2007)

*So i think Satan owned my car before*

so I am trying real hard to make some progress on this car for my kid. and every time I turn around, something else is missing or just fubar. So I started looking into what its gonna take to swap out the water pump and timing belt. I mean from all the other stuff I can see, I doubt its been done.. so I look at my engine, and it doesn't look quite ... right.. somethings missing.. cant quite put my finger on it.... so in my head I start walking through the procedure. Thats when it hit me!!!!! Why can is the upper gear that the serpentine belt out in the open? great there is no upper timing cover? Then like I got hit by lightning.. wait.. where is the timing cover back plate?!?!??? the one with the TDC mark on it.. So now I am extremely angry (read that as pissed). So now I need to find one, so that I can put it ON, so that I can make the TDC so I can start to disassemble to swap out timing belt, water pump and tensioner.. Cant seem to catch a break with this thing. I mean the grommets on the airbox were missing.. Anyone have a spare back plate and upper timing cover they can spare?? Send me a PM please! Still chasing vacuum lines that were disconnected too. I really want to go visit the previous owner and slap him or his hack yard mechanic... and now I need to get the brace to support the motor while I take out that motor mount on the left.. God I so need a beer...how does the back plate get mounted back onto the motor? I cant seem to find anything that shows me online.. getting frustrated searching with no real results..


----------



## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

_First of all; take a deep breath! Technically, you can easily time the cam and crank without any covers that are removable on the car._ Do you have a picture; of what your are talking about, post it up, if you do! The top timing belt cover; does not have any functional value, aside from covering the timing belt and components from the elements. The timing marks on top, are part of the valve cover from my experience; the bottom, does have a metal plate that screws into the block with the timing marks for the crankshaft pulley... which engine are we talking about? The 2.0L or 1.8T? You can find the timing marks on top no problem and the bottom (even without the metal plate) by looking at the hole in the bell housing, that will show the mark on the flywheel. Tell me which engine you are dealing with and I will give you a link to the manual/timing marks alignment info.

As far as the brace goes; you can easily make one out of a 2x4 piece of wood or just use a floor jack and some wood blocks.


----------



## Gdimovski (Aug 25, 2007)

billymade said:


> _First of all; take a deep breath! Technically, you can easily time the cam and crank without any covers that are removable on the car._ Do you have a picture; of what your are talking about, post it up, if you do! The top timing belt cover; does not have any functional value, aside from covering the timing belt and components from the elements. The timing marks on top, are part of the valve cover from my experience; the bottom, does have a metal plate that screws into the block with the timing marks for the crankshaft pulley... which engine are we talking about? The 2.0L or 1.8T? You can find the timing marks on top no problem and the bottom (even without the metal plate) by looking at the hole in the bell housing, that will show the mark on the flywheel. Tell me which engine you are dealing with and I will give you a link to the manual/timing marks alignment info.
> 
> As far as the brace goes; you can easily make one out of a 2x4 piece of wood or just use a floor jack and some wood blocks.


Not out of my mind  just frustrated with the hack job this guy did, or had done on this car. I will get a picture shortly, the part I am seeing in several pictures actually has an arrow on it to align the cam sprocket, from what I can see in the pictures I have seen, its right behind the cam sprocket. I gotta order the parts yet, so it may take me a short while before I actually start doing the work. Besides, I still want to get the parts so I can put this thing back to "as intended" mode  after all I want it as perfect as I can for my kid hehe, which means replacing everything someone forgot to put back into the car.

Thanks for all your help!! It is much appreciated.


----------



## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

So, what are we dealing with here: is a 2.0L or 1.8T?  I just did a timing belt on a 2.0L and 1.8T within the past month or so, I don't remember the top cam timing marks being removable?


----------



## Gdimovski (Aug 25, 2007)

billymade said:


> So, what are we dealing with here: is a 2.0L or 1.8T?  I just did a timing belt on a 2.0L and 1.8T within the past month or so, I don't remember the top cam timing marks being removable?


What I have is a 99 Beetle, with a 2.0 L in the box.. from all the videos I have seen, there is a mark on the sprocket, that is supposed to align with a mark on the backplate when you remove the timing cover in order to get TDC. I picked up one of the engine support bars today.. I think I got a hell of a deal, brand new cost me $65. ordering the timing kit from blauparts.com in a few moments. I have never done of of these, in any car, so I am not so confident that I wont blow it up.. lol.


----------



## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Well, it's a totally doable job; the key is just to take your time and doublecheck everything; the kit comes with instructions as well! I would recommend getting the plus version; that way you can get all the: special Volkswagen g12 spec coolant also!


----------



## Gdimovski (Aug 25, 2007)

*Just wanted to confirm parts...*

This is the kit I found on blouparts.com...

https://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=GH21100-B

Just wanted to make sure this is the one I need to get this job done. 

Thanks for the time and help!

-George


----------



## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

That looks like the right kit for your car; however, I would get the enhanced plus version; this comes with the special G12 coolant which can be kind of hard to find and is expensive in many places, of the USA. Here is a link to the enhanced plus kit I am talking about: 

https://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=GH21100-1B


If it hasn't already been done; I would also recommend that you replace the coolant temperature sensor and the coolant flange/plastic pipe that comes off the head, where the sensor is. Both the sensor and the plastic coolant flanges; are known Failure l points and leak very often! so since you're in there doing everything, just fix it all; start fresh with all new parts and hopefully you won't have to deal with it for a while! 
The timing belt kit will come with a new thermostat and a new plastic coolant flange for the thermostat as well; everything will be new and you shouldn't have any more leaks!  When, you get everything back together; I would recommend that you pressure test the whole cooling system and check for leaks; make sure everything is leak free and solid! 

When you order your kit; be sure to put in your discount code for an extra 10% off, since you were a first time customer and first time ordering from their site! If you are under a time constraints; you might want to call ahead and confirm that the kit is in stock. Also, get an estimate of how long will take to ship; they have free shipping but it is kind of slow in my experience. If you needed it faster; you might want to pay extra for a quicker shipping service!


----------



## Gdimovski (Aug 25, 2007)

billymade said:


> That looks like the rate kit for your car; however, I would get the enhanced plus version; this comes with the special G12 coolant which can be kind of hard to find and is expensive at many places. Here is a link to the enhanced plus kit I am talking about:
> 
> https://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=GH21100-1B
> 
> ...



Whats the coupon code for first time customer and ordering from their site?


----------



## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Sorry, was all goofed up with phone texting (all fixed now): here is the coupon: hmm, it used to be on there, if you were a first time customer. You might call them and see if they will still give it to you; I'm not seeing it right now. I just used it; on a order in the last couple of months; when I did my 1.8T Turbo S. 

Contact info: 

http://www.blauparts.com/policies/policies_toc.shtml


----------



## Gdimovski (Aug 25, 2007)

billymade said:


> Sorry, was all goofed up with phone texting (all fixed now): here is the coupon: hmm, it used to be on there, if you were a first time customer. You might call them and see if they will still give it to you; I'm not seeing it right now. I just used it; on a order in the last couple of months; when I did my 1.8T Turbo S.
> 
> Contact info:
> 
> http://www.blauparts.com/policies/policies_toc.shtml


Sent them off an email, lets see what I get for a response. I have a few weeks to make this happen. so much work I have had to do on this car. I cant believe that someone can be so... "creative" with a car... and thats me bieng nice.. lol


----------



## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

I think; I may have you beat! How about a 2001 1.8T Jetta I worked on; brother bought it at a auto auction: uber Mickey Mouse! 

1. turbo bad: impeller blades hitting turbo body, total loss not rebuildable: sent to Turbo City (replaced center section with new).
2. turbo oil feed lines, stuffed with wood on one end and cut off and bent over, on the other! Replaced with new lines. 
3. cooling fans bypassed and connected to the fuse box; ran 24/7 on high, until one burned out!
4. trans dogbone mount; totally destroyed! Rebuilt mount, installed new stock vw rubber inserts in, from BFI. 
5. cam chain tensioner; jammed with a bolt, in an attempt... to keep up the slack, super noisy! Replaced with new unit; old one, literally fell apart, when removed! 
6. water pump; plastic impeller cracked; put in new timing belt and waterpump kit. 
7. plastic coolant tube with small connector, breaks off! Coolant everywhere! Replaced with new plastic piece.
8. wheel bearings bad; rear. Replaced with new. 
9. flex tube on down pipe, totally destroyed by bad dogbone mount, too much movement. Broken center mounts and odd attempts at hacking and fixing things. New section welded and repaired by muffler shop; quiet as a mouse, after that! 
10. replaced some window regulators. new repair kits from VW. 
11. coil packs replaced by VW; under recall. 
12. new tires. 
13. leaking valve cover gasket; replaced with felpro. 
14. pcv hose; bad, replaced. 
15. coolant flanges leaking; coolant temp sensor bad. replaced with new parts. 
16. misc. weird wiring bypasses, spaghetti everywhere and other weirdness, untaped things, repaired wiring and corrected the rigged stuff, got it back to how it should be! Threw out; allot of rigged wiring and got everything functional again. 
17. brittle oil dipstick tube; broke when working on things, replaced with new from vw. 
18. probably more; I just have forgotten everything... :facepalm:

_It just wouldn't stop; on and on and on. :banghead: After all the work; it wasn't that bad of a car; my brother never replaced the a/c condenser fan... he definitely, lost money on the car and had major parts buying fatigue... it ran awesome after the new turbo was installed and all new coils, plugs, etc. It did have some shifting issues and probably would have needed a valve body eventually... common 01M issues... :laugh: All of this work; was done over probably a year, kept at it and fixing everything up... definitely, one of the most rigged cars I have ever seen or worked on! YOU ARE NOT ALONE! _


----------



## Gdimovski (Aug 25, 2007)

billymade said:


> I think; I may have you beat! How about a 2001 1.8T Jetta I worked on; brother bought it at a auto auction: uber Mickey Mouse!
> 
> 1. turbo bad: impeller blades hitting turbo body, total loss not rebuildable: sent to Turbo City (replaced center section with new).
> 2. turbo oil feed lines, stuffed with wood on one end and cut off and bent over, on the other! Replaced with new lines.
> ...


 Damn! I hear ya. I am running into several of those same issues. the guy had to balls to say "I like it when the fans run at top speed all the time anyway" I was like what!?!?!? Problem is, like the cover and back plate, there are missing pieces everywhere. Like I mentioned this is my kids first car, so I am trying really hard to make this car right, and she wants it done before school starts for her. so i am pushing like hell to get it "Back to stock" I have a month now, so lets see how far I get. How do I get this thing on TDC so I can take the Timing belt out and do the waterpump? Like Imentioned, everything I saw says to align the cam sprocket to the mark on the back plate, which isn't there. Thanks for all the help and comeraderie!


----------



## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Hey, would you mind posting a picture of the top of your timing belt pulley and where the telling Mark should be? Timing marks for the crankshaft would be fine probably through the flywheel or the marks on the crankshaft pulley; that should get you at top dead center. I guess you could mark with a dab of white paint somewhere on the top of the engine (I use a white correction pen that I bought at the store). The mark would give you a visual reference point for where you should be. Whenever I replace the timing belt I mark the old belt in three places on the top and bottom pulleys and then I mark the new belt at the same teeth count/position, after you put the new belt back on the car and match up the marks, it's pretty much a bullet proof way that you would keep everything in time as it should be., Adjust the timing belt tensioner as per the manual; linening up two marks on the cam portion of tensioner and tighten everything down to spec. then turn the crankshaft two full revolutions by hand, with a wrench and recheck your timing works to confirm everything as it should be; put everything back together and you should be done.

If you're missing pieces; you shouldn't have trouble finding those parts at a local junkyard, on eBay or in the classified section VW vortex. The 2.0 L engine was made for a very long time, is very common; parts are plentiful. (same engine in the Jetta and the Golf IV). Needless. this to say; I would replace whatever parts are missing on the car; especially the one with the timing marks. Sure would be nice to be a look at another 2.0 L Volkswagen and that way you can see what's missing!  It can be hard to know what the missing parts are; when you never have seen them before and they're not there!


----------



## Gdimovski (Aug 25, 2007)

billymade said:


> Hey, would you mind posting a picture of the top of your timing belt pulley and where the telling Mark should be? Timing marks for the crankshaft would be fine probably through the flywheel or the marks on the crankshaft pulley; that should get you at top dead center. I guess you could mark with a dab of white paint somewhere on the top of the engine (I use a white correction pen that I bought at the store). The mark would give you a visual reference point for where you should be. Whenever I replace the timing belt I mark the old belt in three places on the top and bottom pulleys and then I mark the new belt at the same teeth count/position, after you put the new belt back on the car and match up the marks, it's pretty much a bullet proof way that you would keep everything in time as it should be., Adjust the timing belt tensioner as per the manual; linening up two marks on the cam portion of tensioner and tighten everything down to spec. then turn the crankshaft two full revolutions by hand, with a wrench and recheck your timing works to confirm everything as it should be; put everything back together and you should be done.
> 
> If you're missing pieces; you shouldn't have trouble finding those parts at a local junkyard, on eBay or the classified section VW vortex. The 2.0 L engine was made for a very long time is very common; parts are plentiful. (same engine in the Jetta and the Golf IV). Needless. this to say; I would replace whatever parts are missing on the car; especially the one with the timing works. Sure would be nice to be a look at another 2.0 L Volkswagen and that way you can see what's missing!  It can be hard to know what the missing parts are; when you never have seen them before and they're not there!




Where does someone upload pictures? If I remember correctly, I cannot upload a pic directly to the forum. I will try to get those pictures tomorrow when I get back from work.


----------



## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

I use photobucket; to host my pictures, then use their links to put them in a thread. There are many other but that is one to try, it is free. http://photobucket.com/


----------



## Gdimovski (Aug 25, 2007)

billymade said:


> I use photobucket; to host my pictures, then use their links to put them in a thread. There are many other but that is one to try, it is free. http://photobucket.com/




I didn't get the chance to take a picture today.. but this is the marking I was looking for:

https://www.google.com/search?q=Dia...water-pump-timing-belt-2-0-trick.html;500;329

its marked with an arrow and a "to" marking. I don't have the plate with that mark on it.


----------



## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Based upon the early 2.0L; that is in your New Beetle, it seems to have a separate plastic piece that has the timing mark on it. 

INNER TIMING CVR
Part Number
048-109-173-D

$18.47

http://www.vwparts2go.com/auto-part...0l-l4-gas-engine/engine-cat/engine-parts-scat

Check Post #11; shows the black plastic peice you don't have: (note the other ones above it, have the mark on the valve cover)

http://newbeetle.org/forums/2-0-liter-gas/57397-timing-belt-questions-concerns.html

Here are some good pictures of it: 

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES276346/

Looks to be a easy replacement; I don't think, you will need to remove the cam pulley either...


----------



## Gdimovski (Aug 25, 2007)

billymade said:


> Based upon the early 2.0L; that is in your New Beetle, it seems to have a separate plastic piece that has the timing mark on it.
> 
> INNER TIMING CVR
> Part Number
> ...




Awesome info here. and a relief that I dont have to pull the cam gear. I can more or less eye ball the spot that the timing mark should be using reference from other pieces in the area, and still check the marks on the crank pully. And also check the marks on the transmission. just more or less just boggled as to why this was removed to begin with. pretty benign part to need to pull it. anyway, ordering the parts from blauparts.com tonight. and then need to get to cleaning the throttle body, it looks flat out disgusting...


----------



## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Any updates?


----------



## Gdimovski (Aug 25, 2007)

billymade said:


> Any updates?


Just got my kit from Blauparts. What a complete kit. I even shopped around just to make sure it was a good deal, and the guy I normally get my stuff from, says, "yeah I cant beat that or even get close" so i started looking it over, and there are no real instructions, just a pamphlet with "hey make sure you flush the coolant system before you do this". but apparantly I forgot to get a tool for the timing belt tensioner. I gotta find one by this weekend as I was hoping to get started. Still need to find one of those back plates with the timing mark. Want to be as thorough as i can! Thanks for checking in!!

-George


----------



## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Hey, the Blauparts kit; is the best bang for the buck, that I have been able to find anywhere.... I have tried to figure out a better price and based upon my research, there isn't one out there!  The typical auto parts store; charge you way more and give you much less! 

For the "special tool"; the tensioner spring is not that hard to turn, so I am not convinced you need the special tool... unless you would just like to have it and would use it in the future. Many have used a pair of needle nose pliers; with tips that have a 45 degree bend in them or angled snap ring pliers.

Look at 13:10 in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qujAcYr_pqo

That being said; I was in a time bind and I made my own "tool", out of two tapered "pins" that I got from the hardware store for a couple of bucks and some tapered nose style vise grip pliers; installed the taper pins in the tensioner and locked them down with the pliers, I had a "special tool" that worked for the job. 

Vise Grip Long Nose locking pliers

http://www.amazon.com/Locking-Plier-Long-Nose-Cutter/dp/B00063W95U

taper pins: 

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=steel+taper+pins 

Take your new tensioner from the kit; find the taper pins that fit in the holes, I tapped them in gently and they worked fine. 

Now, if you want to get the special tool; it would be nice to have and probably make things easier, however you could go on the cheap and do what i did or buy some angled snap ring pliers as well. 

https://www.google.com/webhp?source...pv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=vw timing belt tensioner tool

https://www.google.com/webhp?source...&ie=UTF-8#q=+snap+ring+pliers+45+degree+angle

Plastic backing plate with timing marks; as cheap as it is, you might just want to buy a new one from the VW dealer and be done with it, the amount of time and gas you would spend driving to the junk yard would probably around the same price as a new one! LOL! :laugh:

My local VW dealer; is starting to get parts in two days, so if you ordered it today, you would get it before the weekend! 

INNER TIMING CVR
Part Number
048-109-173-D

$18.47

As far as instructions go; I thought the included ones, were ok but you can look at the online diy's, the video above or this factory vw manual link below:

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...nt_information/service_and_repair/procedures/


----------



## Gdimovski (Aug 25, 2007)

billymade said:


> Hey, the Blauparts kit; is the best bang for the buck, that I have been able to find anywhere.... I have tried to figure out a better price and based upon my research, there isn't one out there!  The typical auto parts store; charge you way more and give you much less!
> 
> For the "special tool"; the tensioner spring is not that hard to turn, so I am not convinced you need the special tool... unless you would just like to have it and would use it in the future. Many have used a pair of needle nose pliers; with tips that have a 45 degree bend in them or angled snap ring pliers.
> 
> ...



So I figured I should scope out the job...and I figured I should check out how much play there was in the timing belt... holy cow!! the belt moves an inch in each direction... I am going to try the 2 rivets in the vice grips, but is there anyone around me that might have one of those tools kicking around that I can borrow for the weekend?? heheh.. Anyway... prepping.. trying to get myself hyped up to do the job, but I tend to be a nervous nellie leading up to doing the work... then cursing up a storm while I am doing the job, followed up by several beers after the job... so we will see how it goes this weekend..


----------



## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Well, good luck with the job; I used "tapered pins", instead of "rivets"; you can find them at your local hardware store. The taper will keep the pins in the holes; I tapped them in and that way they stayed in, while adjusting the tension. 
If you need any help or run into any issues; post up here and we will do our best to help! 

This info on blauparts website: is good to make sure the cooling system fully flushed and prepped correctly, to eliminate potential leaks and for premature waterpump failure (NO sealing products). Pay special attention to cleaning; the "bore" the waterpump/seal go into; damaging the seal and the bore surfaces the o-ring goes into, is a common failure point and damaging the seal with improper installation is how things typically end up leaking (requiring you to redo the whole job). Prepping and cleaning the mating surfaces is CRUCIAL and I would torque all the bolts to spec. 

More info; below:

http://www.blauparts.com/vw_water_pump_replacement/vw_water_pump_toc.html

http://www.blauparts.com/vw_water_pump_replacement/bad_vw_water_pump_leak_noise.html


----------



## Gdimovski (Aug 25, 2007)

billymade said:


> Well, good luck with the job; I used "tapered pins", instead of "rivets"; you can find them at your local hardware store. The taper will keep the pins in the holes; I tapped them in and that way they stayed in, while adjusting the tension.
> If you need any help or run into any issues; post up here and we will do our best to help!
> 
> This info on blauparts website: is good to make sure the cooling system fully flushed and prepped correctly, to eliminate potential leaks and for premature waterpump failure (NO sealing products). Pay special attention to cleaning; the "bore" the waterpump/seal go into; damaging the seal and the bore surfaces the o-ring goes into, is a common failure point and damaging the seal with improper installation is how things typically end up leaking (requiring you to redo the whole job). Prepping and cleaning the mating surfaces is CRUCIAL and I would torque all the bolts to spec.
> ...


So I am all the way down to the water pump. I pulled the pump and guess what... NO IMPELLER. And I cant find any parts of it. suggestions? where would those pieces have gone? I found little pieces of RTV when I drained the coolant. I see the thermostat housing has RTV slathered on it. I am very concerned with the missing impeller and pieces...

HELP!

Thanks!!

-George.


----------



## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Well, it sounds like you have one of the original plastic impellers on your vehicle; Needless to say when you replace it get one with a metal impeller! Every time I have done a water pump/ting belt job that I have done the water pumps had plastic impellers from the vw factory, many times they break into pieces but I've never seen one totally disappear! Most of the time in the plastic impellers break and fall apart; they are in 2 to 4 distinct pieces. These pieces; typically, are too big to get sucked into the coolant system, having said that; I suppose anything is possible. You might flush the whole system from a number of different areas and see if anything comes out. 

Based upon the Mickey Mouse and bizarre nature of the repairs that we have seen on this car and from what I've seen; I wonder if it's possible that somebody removed the water pump, saw the broken impeller, removed the broken mpeller pieces and RTV'd it back together, and sent it down the road? That sounds like a lot of work to just patch it up and throw it back together but anything is possible, right?

Hopefully if you flush it from multiple places; removing hoses in backflushing many areas, you can see if there's any restriction or if any pieces come out during the flushing process.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

The last car that I flushed was a 2.0 L like yours; I flushed from Therese areas: heater hose connection at the firewall, ,the hose coming from the coolant bottle (remove the hose and check to see if there's any restrictions in that hose), I removed the thermostat, I removed the drain peacock from the radiator in the left-hand front side bottom and The bottom mean coolant hose connected to the radiator. You can try even more areas but that's about where I stopped!t the Jetta I working on had a mixed green and G12 coolant problem; which caused lot of slimy sludge to form inside the cooling system. 

So I would back flush and flush the whole system like crazy; report back what your findings are! 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Gdimovski (Aug 25, 2007)

billymade said:


> The last car that I flushed was a 2.0 L like yours; I flushed from Therese areas: heater hose connection at the firewall, ,the hose coming from the coolant bottle (remove the hose and check to see if there's any restrictions in that hose), I removed the thermostat, I removed the drain peacock from the radiator in the left-hand front side bottom and The bottom mean coolant hose connected to the radiator. You can try even more areas but that's about where I stopped!t the Jetta I working on had a mixed green and G12 coolant problem; which caused lot of slimy sludge to form inside the cooling system.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Checked my PMs and didn't find anything. I will flush the daylights out of this thing.. I am just worried about big pieces...


----------



## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Dieselgeek products: 

Panzer plate: metal skid plate: 

http://www.dieselgeek.com/Volkswagen_and_Audi_skid_plate_kits_s/1829.htm

http://www.dieselgeek.com/New_Beetle_skid_plate_s/1837.htm

door handle repair kit: "beetle brace": 

http://www.dieselgeek.com/Broken_New_Beetle_Door_Handle_Fix_s/1883.htm

coolant PENTOFROST SF: PENTOSIN PART # 8114107 (G12+; revised version of G12: purple/violet color?, old G12 version is pink color)

SF-G12+; 1.5 L; Packaged For Sale In US & Mexico Only

Volkswagen (after 06/1996 up to 2005); Spec. TL 744 F

http://www.showmetheparts.com/BIN/documents/CRP/Antifreeze_PentofrostSF.PDF

http://www.pentosin.net/f_antifreeze.asp


----------



## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Any updates?


----------



## Gdimovski (Aug 25, 2007)

billymade said:


> Any updates?


Sent you a PM. Just curious about a little more info... TORQUE SPECS.. lol where can I find them?


----------



## Gdimovski (Aug 25, 2007)

billymade said:


> Any updates?


Cleaned up the taper on the water pump opening, which was nasty I might add, very rough, but mostly just junk that I was able to clean up with a little piece of scotch brite. Lubed the taper and the o ring with antifreeze, and it slipped right in.. bolts are in, but snug, looking for the specs so i can continue with assembly! woot at least past the dissasembly hump...


----------



## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Cool!here are free online manuals with everything you need to know! 

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Timing belt and tensioner info: 2000 New Beetle Engine CODE: AEG:

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...mponent_information/specifications/page_2255/

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...mponent_information/specifications/page_2260/

Here are some clearer; plictures of the marks on the tensioner of the timing belt;, we are talking about: ("V" on the back: "pointer" on the front)

http://www.justanswer.com/vw-volksw...marks-crank-shaft-engine-casing-camshaft.html

Rocker panel/side skirt covers; reproduction of original VW/VOTEX accessory: 

http://www.optikwerks.com/NewBeetle/VotexSideSkirts/index.html


----------



## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Bosch parts look up:

http://www.boschautoparts.com/vehiclepartfinder/pages/vehiclepartfinder.aspx

Part Number Description Comments 
AL0188X Alternator (remanufactured) Bosch, only as replacement for bosch equipment
90 A
AEG Eng.
1 per car More Info 
AL0189X Alternator (remanufactured) 120 A
AEG Eng.
1 per car More Info 
AL0716X Alternator (remanufactured) Bosch, only as replacement for bosch equipment
70 A
AEG Eng.
1 per car More Info 
AL0716X Alternator (remanufactured) Interchangeable bosch product or part for valeo
70 A
AEG Eng.
1 per car More Info 
AL0188N Alternator (new) Bosch, only as replacement for bosch equipment
90 A
AEG Eng.
1 per car More Info 
Search By Part Number
Where to Buy
Search for United States locations near you that sell Bosch automotive products.


----------



## Gdimovski (Aug 25, 2007)

so finally seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. car runs pretty well, just have a few more dash lights to iron out. the battery light comes out now that I swapped out that regulator, thinking either the regulator is bad, or I am pushing the wrong voltage. The airbag light is on, and the ABS light taunts me. So it looks like I get to test the speed sensors this weekend, and make sure the tone rings are clean. hopefully I get to iron out at least one more light this weekend.

Thanks!
George


----------



## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Again, that $50 VW scanner from amazon.com; the Vgate VS450 would really help you diagnose your ABS and other issues, it would give you factory VW trouble codes... that can pinpoint specific problems (e.g. airbag, ABS). Generic scanners; do not have the ability to access those trouble codes or scan the many onboard computers on our cars; totally worth getting a scanner or going factory level with the Ross Tech VCDS. 
When it comes to the alternator; I would just take both of them to a auto parts store and have them tested, to confirm the pass/fail of each unit. 

Here is a good page; for diagnosis and repair of the typical Bosch alterntors on the Mark IV VWs: 

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/alternator-pulley-removal-and-low-voltage-troubleshooting-vw-audi/

Here is the vw factory repair manual; for the service/testing/repair of the wheels sensors/abs: 

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...iagrams/diagram_information_and_instructions/


----------

