# F21 frankenturbo DIY BUILD 180hp QUATTRO



## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

OK so im installing my frankenturbo my driveway with out a lift so you can to, its going in a 2001 AWP 180hp Quattro here is a run down of things so far. 

parts list.

LINK TO ECS CART http://www.ecstuning.com/Cart/?add1...ource=&utm_medium=email&utm_content=link2cart

*Required for install* of f21 turbo kit

Parts *NOT* included in kit:

1J0253115R : X1 Downpipe gaskets

058145757A : X1 & N0138182 : x2 oil return pipe gaskets

N0138149 : x7 brass water banjo bolt washers

N0138128 : x2 brass oil feed line banjo bolt washers

06A253039E : X1 turbo to manifold gasket (I removed this gasket off after if blew out on me,works better that way)

058253039L : X1 manifold to head gasket

N90767801 & N90369001 : X4 turbo to downpipe studs and nuts.

N90085001 : X14 or find ones that have a 10mm head they would work best.

hose clamps for TIP & MAF.


things I recommend and did for mine:

3" MAF housing from frankenturbo
XS-power 3" downpipe
Usrt injectors required for Unitronic tune
upgraded Diverter Valve 
Home made short ram intake.
Unitronic Franketurbo TUNE
Assorted hose clamps. (zip ties work great on vacuum lines as hose clamps.)
Voodo Ceramic MBC 
upgraded intercooler
INTEGRATED ENGINEERING K03 / K04 BOLT LOCKING PLATE



to get the old turbo out follow these steps.

A. From under car

1. Remove 4 down pipe nuts from turbo VIA drive shaft hole and long extension.
2. Remove belly shield.
3. Drain OIL.
4. Drain coolant.
5. Remove turbo oil return line from oil pan and mount screw just a little higher up on same tube.

B. From top of engine

1. Remove airbox/tip
2. Remove strut bar assy & right firewall bracket
3. Remove inter-cooler piping from top of engine
4. Remove inter-cooler piping brackets and heat shield off Back of engine. (Some are easier after manifold is off)
5. Remove the 3 turbo to manifold bolts.
6. Remove manifold bolts (you can push turbo down lightly to allow access to the 2 lower bolts behind the turbo) 
7. Remove manifold
8. Remove upper water and oil banjo bolts/lines off turbo. (don't forget the bolt holding the upper water tube on the back of the engine & the small one on the compressor housing holding the oil line.)
9. Remove lower coolant line banjo from rear of block.
(PIC 1)
10. Remove lower turbo mounting bolt. (this is a pain in the ass due to funny angle and oil return line.) (PIC 1)
11. Remove turbo.
12. cut out down pipe. 

HERE IS UPSIDEDOWN PIC (1)

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

INSTALLATION:

1. install 3" down-pipe. (I fed my ebay XS-Power Down-pipe in from the top worked like a charm.)








2. test fit turbo to manifold out of car. ( just a good idea  )
3. install turbo: reverse the removal process, lines 8-9 (don't forget to use all new gaskets and brass banjo washers. and be sure to Pre-lube Turbo like it says in the instructions)








4. good time to install TIP and waste-gate hose on to turbo IMO: (I had to "manually adjust" the metal heater pipe that runs across the front of the turbo and had to trim the TIP to get it to fit into location due to its increased size. and shorten the TIP by 1"
















5. place stud in manifold with nut on end (PIC) install manifold. (SEE LINE 9 & manifold can be installed without grinding or special nuts. some will require the use of a wrench to tighten.)
















6. Attach turbo to manifold.
7. See if you can get lower mounting bolt in. (I was not able, the bracket was too long and impossible to get to aligned and when installed before manifold turbo will not bolt up to manifold. IMO it should be fine without this. the FT manifold is quite hefty and should hold the turbo just fine.) (pic)
8. Install intercooler piping brackets.
9. Install heat shields ( the metal heat shield above the manifold will not fit unless you cut the turbo studs to length. or add a hole to the shield.) I'm leaving the shield off at first. looks better IMO. and I'm not running engine covers)








10. Install intercooler piping and heat wrap.
11. Conect vacuum lines and J-valve
Optinal: install MBC
12. remove spark plugs
13. crank engine with plugs removed to feed oil into turbo with out spooling it.
14. Reinstall plugs
15. re-attach any lose ends
16. startup-test drive low/no boost
16. Schedule a Unitronic tune session (Good time to do SAI EVAP etc deletes.)
18. get DP welded
19. be sure to install 415cc injectors and MAF housing on the day you get it tuned (not before)
20. dial in you MBC



More to come..... I'm on step 20.


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Review 1: Frankenturbo f21/MANI/TIP + stock injectors + P-mbc + stock maf + 3" turbo back. awesome the boost jump rite up to 0.8bar 11-12ish psi and stays there. with out the upgrade to tune i would recomend the turbo over a replacement k03s any day, the exhaust note is deeper and the induction noise is louder. for 1000.00 you wont get a better "dirrect fit" upgrade.


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

full tank of fuel and myself = est 3500lbs
the run was 14.210 on a hot day and stock intercooler.






My car # is 5011










How the engine looks now.


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

res2


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)




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## Teeguzi (Jul 22, 2011)

Subscribed opcorn:


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

I've just installed a FrankenMani in my backyard… couple tips in case you don't know them already…


Test fit the mani & take note of all the nuts that aren't accessible with a wrench or socket - 1/4" drive helps as do 10mm nuts…










Ink the problem spots with each test fit and keep massaging until your wrenches or sockets "fit" - a Dremel will make short work of the extra material. When you're ready to install, insert the turbo to mani bolt closest to the head *BEFORE* installation - it won't fit otherwise…


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

turbo fits on manifold perfectly that lower mounting bracket is another story.


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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

what do you mean? How aren't they fitting?


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> what do you mean? How aren't they fitting?


turns out to be the lower mounting bracket does not mount up like the k03s  it shoulod be fine without it this, cast manifold is quite hefty. the hole is about 1/8" off and impossible to get to. with the lower mounting bolt in, the turbo won't line up with manifold impossible to get studs in. the bracket would need to be same hight but closer to the block. i have a pic that I'll post in a few. just trying to get it together.


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

latter when i have it on a lift I'm gonna see if i can loosen the lower mounting brackets lower bolt (skeptical AWD is in the way  ) and see if i can get the bolt in then. the intercooler piping is not a big deal to remove and that all i would need to remove at a latter date.


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

test drive compleate check back sunday nite for vids and updates.


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

car is now Unitronic tunned by JD Autosports. thanks guys.


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## carminegiammarino (Nov 28, 2009)

*f21*

damit i want mine installed now blahhhhhhhhh.......... You are soo lucky and thank you doug for everything with helping me out being in the military with the discount u are awesome. currently my turbo is sitting next to my kitchen table not being installed yet because I am moving to denver colorado from chesapeake virgina. Everyday I see that turbo sitting there it makes me excited to feel the differance in the way the car drives. Ps thanks tavern for telling me the info on the phone about ur install and how big the differance is thats awesome im happy for you. Thank god im finnaly outta active duty its soo nice to be free yayyyyyy


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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

Let's see some pix of the whole car!


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> Let's see some pix of the whole car!


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Unfortunately today my VVT actuator gave up its magic and now it needs to be replaced. "scared the **** out of me, at idle it was slapping back and forth sounded like a bad rod used a stethiscope and pinpointed the noise, pulled the cover to verify its holding tention but the vvt part is not holding so the hole thing flops up and down at idle." sorry for the delay guys but i promise a vid once she is healed.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

taverncustoms said:


> Unfortunately today my VVT actuator gave up its magic and now it needs to be replaced. "scared the **** out of me, at idle it was slapping back and forth sounded like a bad rod used a stethiscope and pinpointed the noise, pulled the cover to verify its holding tention but the vvt part is not holding so the hole thing flops up and down at idle." sorry for the delay guys but i promise a vid once she is healed.


Ahh the natural timing of part failures to coincide with new mods. It never fails. :banghead: At least you know what it is even though it's not a "cheap" fix.


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

20v master said:


> Ahh the natural timing of part failures to coincide with new mods. It never fails. :banghead: At least you know what it is even though it's not a "cheap" fix.


Lol ya I found a oem one for a decent price.


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## jonpwn (Aug 13, 2010)

how long did this install take you? was it your first time doing a job of this caliber?


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

jonpwn said:


> how long did this install take you? was it your first time doing a job of this caliber?


 about 12hr because i was taking it slow and figuring out the best way to do it at the same time if you follow the my DIY it would prob take 4-8 hours depending on the mechanic/tools/rusted-bolts. assuming you have all your parts. that was another thing that slowed me down, and why i included a parts list. good luck and its well worth it.eace:


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## jonpwn (Aug 13, 2010)

taverncustoms said:


> about 12hr because i was taking it slow and figuring out the best way to do it at the same time if you follow the my DIY it would prob take 4-8 hours depending on the mechanic/tools/rusted-bolts. assuming you have all your parts. that was another thing that slowed me down, and why i included a parts list. good luck and its well worth it.eace:


 Thanks. I'm doing it on a mkIV, but also AWP so this will really help me. J-Tec's k04 DIY says 2-3 days but he also did change the oil and coolant lines. On that topic, is there a reason why you didn't replace oil lines? I've asked [email protected] about it before and he said "The coolant lines you can keep, but the oil lines can become coked and restricted, leading to issues on the new turbo." 

also did you hvae to do any bending of other lines or modifications etc? 

thanks again man


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

jonpwn said:


> Thanks. I'm doing it on a mkIV, but also AWP so this will really help me. J-Tec's k04 DIY says 2-3 days but he also did change the oil and coolant lines. On that topic, is there a reason why you didn't replace oil lines? I've asked [email protected] about it before and he said "The coolant lines you can keep, but the oil lines can become coked and restricted, leading to issues on the new turbo."
> 
> also did you hvae to do any bending of other lines or modifications etc?
> 
> thanks again man


 all the other lines fit perfectly and i tested & cleaned my oil lines before reinstalling them. also i use full synthetic oil every 6k and it seems to keep every thing quite clean. :thumbup:


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

update.... heat wrapped charge pipe. removed n75 from system "RECOMENDED" car runs amazing and goes like a bat outta hell. :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## Alec's TT (Jan 28, 2013)

taverncustoms said:


> update.... heat wrapped charge pipe. removed n75 from system "RECOMENDED" car runs amazing and goes like a bat outta hell. :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


Is that with Uni's stage 2 frankenturbo tune? And how is your part throttle?


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Alec's TT said:


> Is that with Uni's stage 2 frankenturbo tune? And how is your part throttle?


yes
& 
part throttle cruise & acceleration feel good to me.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

20v master said:


> Ahh the natural timing of part failures to coincide with new mods. It never fails. :banghead:


QFT :thumbup:


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## Gagez4life (Oct 7, 2013)

By any chance could you direct me towards where I can get everything needed to install the f21 turbo


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## Kacz07 (Mar 4, 2012)

Google Frankenturbo?


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Gagez4life said:


> By any chance could you direct me towards where I can get everything needed to install the f21 turbo


you can get the parts from the dealer or ECS. I used ECS for most, then dealer for the missed parts. but now there is a list "see first post" you should be able to get everything from ECS.


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Gagez4life said:


> By any chance could you direct me towards where I can get everything needed to install the f21 turbo


I ADDED A LINK TO A CART WITH EVERY THING IN IT ALREADY let me know if it works. also switching to non oem only saves you 20.00 and is not recommended.


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

well even with no gasket between the turbo and manifold the bolts still came loose so i highly recommend one of these: http://www.intengineering.com/integrated-engineering-k03-bolt-locking-plate


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## w4xm4n (May 30, 2010)

taverncustoms said:


> update.... heat wrapped charge pipe. removed n75 from system "RECOMENDED" car runs amazing and goes like a bat outta hell. :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:



What did you do to compensate for the n75 being removed? Did you leave it plugged in, and just remove it from the plumbing? If you don't i'm pretty sure you get a check engine and plenty of other issues.. With mine plugged in i'm over-boosting, but I also am not using a MBC ... At this point i've left it plugged in and have removed it from the plumbing, so I'm running only as much as my waste-gate is set for... Approx 10 pounds... I need to throw in a MBC though .. Currently using eurodyne myself for this same setup. 

Best of luck with the tuning.... Cant wait to see how this turn out.


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

w4xm4n said:


> What did you do to compensate for the n75 being removed? Did you leave it plugged in, and just remove it from the plumbing? If you don't i'm pretty sure you get a check engine and plenty of other issues.. With mine plugged in i'm over-boosting, but I also am not using a MBC ... At this point i've left it plugged in and have removed it from the plumbing, so I'm running only as much as my waste-gate is set for... Approx 10 pounds... I need to throw in a MBC though .. Currently using eurodyne myself for this same setup.
> 
> Best of luck with the tuning.... Cant wait to see how this turn out.


it turned out awesome my 3500lb TT ran low 14 in the 1/4 giving it an est 270-300HP you can just leave it plugged in or run a resistor like they use in the sai/evap deletes. I just left it plugged in but disconnected. i used the voodoo ceramic ball MBC from ebay, it works very well. 

you will need to run a good DV because at high rpm low trottle the DV will recirculate the air. I'm loving the Synapse Synchronic.


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## w4xm4n (May 30, 2010)

taverncustoms said:


> update.... heat wrapped charge pipe. removed n75 from system "RECOMENDED" car runs amazing and goes like a bat outta hell. :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:



What did you do to compensate for the n75 being removed? Did you leave it plugged in, and just remove it from the plumbing? If you don't i'm pretty sure you get a check engine and plenty of other issues.. With mine plugged in i'm over-boosting, but I also am not using a MBC ... At this point i've left it plugged in and have removed it from the plumbing, so I'm running only as much as my waste-gate is set for... Approx 10 pounds... I need to throw in a MBC though .. Currently using eurodyne myself for this same setup. 

Best of luck with the tuning.... Cant wait to see how this turn out.


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

w4xm4n said:


> What did you do to compensate for the n75 being removed?


see last post page 1


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## redcapechowder (Mar 31, 2013)

Got any power numbers?


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

redcapechowder said:


> Got any power numbers?


no dyno yet. srry


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## w4xm4n (May 30, 2010)

Being Narrowband I will be trying C2 or United Mororsports this coming week. Have't made up my mind yet.. I'll have to let you know how it goes! Glad to hear your making progress.


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## w4xm4n (May 30, 2010)

Any other recent updates??


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## Mr_Long (Dec 9, 2003)

w4xm4n said:


> Any other recent updates??


X2


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

w4xm4n said:


> Any other recent updates??


Happy FT customer 1 year tomorrow :thumbup:
A new CX-Racing intercooler piping should be going in soon, also reducing wheel size to increase performance these 225-35r19s are HEAVY so I'm going to a 235-40r17. its running great and haven't had any issues. runs like a top daily driven. how ever I will prob be doing a clutch in the next year or so. LOL :laugh:


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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

That makes it one more year of warranty coverage remaining on the kit. Glad to hear you're enjoying it. dh


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## Alec's TT (Jan 28, 2013)

Hope the piping is working well. Not sure of your core but it makes a HUGE difference!


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Alec's TT said:


> Hope the piping is working well. Not sure of your core but it makes a HUGE difference!


will prob put it in this weekend if the weather allows.


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

This car is also getting First gen control arms with polly bushings this weekend as well. off my race car, what a lucky score.


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## Alec's TT (Jan 28, 2013)

What do first gen control arms do? And what cars do they come on?


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Alec's TT said:


> What do first gen control arms do? And what cars do they come on?


smaller bushings = less flex = better handling. IIRC 2000s and early 2001s I believe, but most were recalled


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

got the wheels and tires on with the GEN 1 control arms and wow... the performance is amazing. i highly recommend upgraded front control arms and 17" wheels. but the car really needs more low now lol


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## MidnightG60 (Aug 16, 2004)

taverncustoms said:


> got the wheels and tires on with the GEN 1 control arms and wow... the performance is amazing. i highly recommend upgraded front control arms and 17" wheels. but the car really needs more low now lol


Nice! Post some updates whenever you make it to the track again. I will be installing an F21L kit on my B5 A4 within the next few weeks. I'm AWD and am running light wheels also (17x7 OZ Superleggera's) that are around ~15 lb's a piece. I'll be happy if the car breaks into the 13's which I'm pretty sure it will. :thumbup:


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## [email protected] (Dec 14, 2013)

Looking god man haven't seen you post in a wile.

God willing I will be heading threw town to go to the coast this spring.

You ever find any good vag meets up there.


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## Kevin2332 (Mar 24, 2016)

*Mounting bracket does fit....*



taverncustoms said:


> turns out to be the lower mounting bracket does not mount up like the k03s  it shoulod be fine without it this, cast manifold is quite hefty. the hole is about 1/8" off and impossible to get to. with the lower mounting bolt in, the turbo won't line up with manifold impossible to get studs in. the bracket would need to be same hight but closer to the block. i have a pic that I'll post in a few. just trying to get it together.


I know it's late by about a year or so.... But you can mount the bracket.... Put the bolt through the bottom of the turbo and then you will see how to bend it and what way it needs to go to get the bottom two Allen bolts to line up.... It is kinda a pain as the angle and room. But it can be done.... And def needs to be done!!!! I was pulling my hair out wondering why every time I took a drive no matter how far I always had to tighten the bolts!!! I got so pissed I went as far as to make some bolts up with the wire tie.... Those even were backing out.... So I took some studs and drilled some big holes and wire tied them with a clothes hanger! But now that I have the bracket installed.... Nothing comes loose at all!


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Kevin2332 said:


> I know it's late by about a year or so.... But you can mount the bracket.... Put the bolt through the bottom of the turbo and then you will see how to bend it and what way it needs to go to get the bottom two Allen bolts to line up.... It is kinda a pain as the angle and room. But it can be done.... And def needs to be done!!!! I was pulling my hair out wondering why every time I took a drive no matter how far I always had to tighten the bolts!!! I got so pissed I went as far as to make some bolts up with the wire tie.... Those even were backing out.... So I took some studs and drilled some big holes and wire tied them with a clothes hanger! But now that I have the bracket installed.... Nothing comes loose at all!


After I removed the gasket I never had any issues.


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## babyboy_4lyfe (Jan 12, 2012)

Does anyone know where I can get the turbo to manifold studs. Please and thank you. 

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

babyboy_4lyfe said:


> Does anyone know where I can get the turbo to manifold studs. Please and thank you.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk


ECS TUNNING or the dealership


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