# Aquamist HFS4 install TTS stage3 build thread



## Brd.Prey (Oct 25, 2012)

*Aquamist HFS4 install TTS stage3 IE Direct Port Done*

Anyone wants to chime in with advice or suggestions I'm listening. The pump is mounted and the tank located so far.


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## _Dejan_ (Oct 9, 2012)

Keep us posted  I have also plan install HFS-4 with direct injection + after intercooler injection in my TT ...
But Im not decided if I will use stock washer fluid tank find some low height baffled tank to put in in trunk...


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## Brd.Prey (Oct 25, 2012)

*Some new photos done mounting the tank and the pump.*


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## Brd.Prey (Oct 25, 2012)




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## Brd.Prey (Oct 25, 2012)

*Oser Gauge Pod install*

I used the OSER gauge pod but without cutting down the original vent and shorting it I would have had the A/C blowing around inside the dash. This would have made those other 2 center ducts not work very well at all. Since I live in Florida that wasn't an option. So I basically sawed the original vent stack shorter by the distance of the OSIR pod insert. Then I siliconed it all together. I drilled a hole in the side to let the wire into the vent.


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## FastEddie7 (Aug 23, 2012)

Kickass job as usual. You always seem to be the one of the few to get down and do **** with on and with your car. A shame because the TT platform is perfect


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## Brd.Prey (Oct 25, 2012)

Thanks!


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## Brd.Prey (Oct 25, 2012)

Finished the install


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## pbraswell352 (Apr 30, 2015)

is it too early to ask if this added more power? (or was it done to keep internals cleaner)


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## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

Nice, thorough install and good choice on the kit! That said, I'm not a fan of having a plastic reservoir in the passenger cabin - methanol/water mix will burn up to around 50/50. Any racetrack with decent tech inspection won't let you on the track with that, and even for daily driving, burning alive (from invisible flame, nonetheless) while trapped in my crashed TT doesn't sound like the greatest way to go out. :laugh:

If you get some power figures, I'd love to see what you're putting out once you crank the boost with that direct-port injection!


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## Brd.Prey (Oct 25, 2012)

Damn didnt think about tech inspection. Oh, ya I have gotten 10 more degrees of timing, I might be able to get a dyno run in on the Feb 18. I only run 50/50 to avoid flammability issues.


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## 8JVR6 (Oct 31, 2013)

Awesome post, I'm about to throw on a snow performance kit on my 08 TT vr6T.

I'm gonna tap the windshield washer tank and keep everything in the engine bay / washer fluid area. I thought about the rear but I think this way is easier and a bit neater in my application.


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## _Dejan_ (Oct 9, 2012)

What nozzle size do you use?
Did you try setup it? IS hard to make settings? 

I will also probably use windscreen reservoir because I don't want spend space in trunk.. But because I will go DPI I will use more water/meth fluid so I will refill it more often...


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## Brd.Prey (Oct 25, 2012)

This is a general guide only:
- 100% water: run 10-15% water/fuel ratio.
- 50:50 methanol/water, run 15-20% to fuel.
- 100% methanol, run 20-25% to fuel
Choosing the jet by calculation:
First work out the total fuel flow by adding up the capacity
@max. DC% of the fuel injectors. Multiply the result
by the preferred % recommended above.
Pick the nearest jet/jets size to match the flow. Don’t
forget to subtract the boost pressure from the line pressure
of 160psi. For example, if you are boosting 25psi,
you should select the jet flow at 135 psi. Allow 10-15%
on top in case flow needs to be increased in future.
For Di engines where actual fuel flow is not easy to
quantify, allow 1.5cc/hp (M50/W50). ie 400hp=600cc/m.


It is based on your horsepower. With my IE EFR 6758 twin scroll on race gas I am somewhere around 500hp crank. I went with .7 post intercooler cooling jet and 4 .4 (B) jets in the intake manifold.

Peter at IE is still tweaking the tune. But roughly I was able to add 10 or so degrees in timing and 20% reduction on fueling to get in back where it should be.


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## _Dejan_ (Oct 9, 2012)

Sorry for wake up this thread...
Did you connect kit by wiring diagram from Aquamist? Which engine type do you have? CDMA? I have BWA but have problem that after car turn off on T94 connector pin 3 which is 12V power stay powered around 15 minutes and gauge stay turned on all time... Do you have same problem?
Thanks for any help.


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## Brd.Prey (Oct 25, 2012)

Dont be sorry the thread is here to be woken up. Yes Richard Aquamist gave me the wiring diagram for my CDMA engine., my gauge will stay on for as long as the car powers up the canbus I guess. Never timed it but it eventually goes out like after 15 minutes or so.

Email Richard at Aquamist always quick response.

Ed


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## _Dejan_ (Oct 9, 2012)

Im already in contact with Richard ...
If I only turn on ignition then gauge imediately turn off. If I start car then after turn off it stay on 15 minutes. And this behaviour I don't like so must find swiching +12V pin ...


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## _Dejan_ (Oct 9, 2012)

Im figure out wiring of HFS on my car...
Im leave 4pin molex connector red cable on T94/3 pin on ECU connector for HFS main power. Then Im connect red wire from HFS ECU cable to T94/87 pin on ECU connector and now turn on/off with key no mather if engine has been start or not...


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## Brd.Prey (Oct 25, 2012)

cool


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