# how to change front struts?????????



## TROVR6 (May 25, 2004)

I neeed to know how to change the front struts on my 92 Audi 100 s. I need to know how to do this ASAP. the car is up in the air as i write this. Please help me. I think I have an idea but I'm stuck at the moment. please help me.







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## zytec (May 13, 2006)

*Re: how to change front struts????????? (TROVR6)*

what exactly are you stuck with? if the suspension on this model was any more basic the hubs would be welded directly to the chassis


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## zytec (May 13, 2006)

*Re: how to change front struts????????? (TROVR6)*

Typed out a quick walk through:- let me know if anything is unclear 
Depending on what you are servicing, here is my guide, Note this is a later A6 version of the C4, but it should be the same procedure.
If you just want to replace the dampers / shocks and or damper protective boot, this model has inserts and it can be done without removing the struts from the car. You will however need a special tool, (Matra 2069A), Ask for details on this procedure 
Before raising the car up remove wheel cover or centre cap on alloys and loosen the driveshaft nuts, It should be tight so better to do in the ground however if safe to do so an assistant in the car pressing the brakes may work if the car is already raised. From memory it can be either a bolt head, or a large Allen key, (not sure of size off the top of my head). Now loosen front wheel bolts and raise the car.
Once the car is off the ground remove the front wheels and undo the front brake calliper to strut bolts, while leaving the brake hose connected. Move the calliper away from the strut as best you can without kinking or straining the flexible hose, I cable tie, (zip tie), it to the body out of the way. Remove the disc that should be loose unless rusted to the hub, you can remove the brake pads if it’s easier but it’s not usually required.
Now undo and remove the outer track control arm ball joint post retaining nut and bolt. Good idea to clean the thread with a small wire brush first as best you can and apply a penetrating fluid, (a product called Plus Gas is best if you can get it). The same method should be applied to the tie rod end ball joint nut too. If you don’t clean the thread / use a penetrating oil the ball joint taper may loosen and spin before the nut has undone fully and then it can prove difficult to undo without a lot of arsing around. 
Now you can remove the nut from the drive shaft loosened earlier, drive shaft will slide out as you remove the strut. You’ll probably need a ball joint splitter to release the tie rod end from it’s taper when the nut has been removed. The track control arm can now be moved downwards to release the ball joints post from the struts clamp but you will be fighting the anti roll bar (sway bar). It should be possible with a large lever or pry bar, but if not there are a few ways around it. I usually remove the nut off the end of the anti roll bar and push the strut back off it, but you can also undo and remove the two front anti roll bar retaining clamps from the subframe…. Whichever you feel is easier. You should also now be able to pull the strut away far enough to get the driveshaft splined end out of the hub, make sure it doesn’t fall and damage the gaiter. (note:- if the gaiter is split or is nearing is service life cracked or aged it would be prudent to replace while it’s mostly out, in the UK a genuine Audi kit is not expensive, don’t use cheep gaiter kits it’s a false economy) 
The strut should be free now other than the abs sensor and the brake pad warning wiring. Removal of these should be obvious but you may find the abs sensor is stuck. Do not be tempted to use force to get it out as it is very fragile just trace the wire back to a plug in the engine bay near the steering rack, release it and the inner wing grommets / clips so it comes away from the car with the strut. Now undo the outer three nuts on the strut top under the black cover, (if your car still has the covers), but Don’t remove the nuts yet, leave them on just a few threads. Note:- Do NOT loosen the larger inner 3 nuts
Double check all that is now holding the strut to the car are the three nuts you just loosened on the top make sure you are supporting the weight, (it’s not light), and remove the nuts and strut from the car.
Refit is reverse of removal, but clean the hole and outer ball joint post and all bolt threads and lightly coat with copper grease to aid assembly. Ideally leave the caliper mounting bolts dry, and use a small amount of blue loctite when reassembling.
If you intend to strip the strut use a good spring compressor and while apart check the strut top bearing. If it’s dry or notchy it can be gently prised apart and the hundred + ball bearings cleaned and re-greased. If you take it apart do it over a large tray so you catch all the balls. A small amount of petrol, (gasoline) will suffice to clean balls and carrier, then reassemble with plenty of bearing grease. (Castrol LM for instance)
In lowering mine 3 plus inches I’ve had the struts off many times to try different spring damper ride height combos, and got strut removal time down to 11.5 mins









_Modified by zytec at 2:52 PM 5/14/2006_


_Modified by zytec at 2:53 PM 5/14/2006_


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## TROVR6 (May 25, 2004)

*Re: how to change front struts????????? (zytec)*

All I'm replacing is the front strut inserts. If u could give me a quick know how on how to do this that would be great.


_Modified by TROVR6 at 6:43 AM 5-15-2006_


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## zytec (May 13, 2006)

*Re: how to change front struts????????? (TROVR6)*

You will need a special tool to do this without removing the strut from the car 
Special tool is "Matra 2069a" available from here, (it's near the bottom of the page). 
http://www.samstagsales.com/vwaudi.htm
It is possible to fabricate one, but the insert retaining nut is often rusted in / very tight so it would need to be well made and a very good fit..
Assuming you have the tool you need to do this job with the car sitting on the ground with it's full weight on it's wheels / suspension. It must NOT be done raised.
Make sure the car is immobilised, and everyone that has access to it knows, so it can't be started / driven and that the parking brake is fully applied. 
Under the bonnet,(hood), remove the plastic cover on the top of the strut, (it maybe be missing this item). You'll notice the central damper nut and three around it. Loosen and remove the central nut, (21 or 22mm I think, and you'll need an angled spanner to fit. If it's very tight a deep socket may help, but once loosened a little the damper shaft will spin. 
Now look and you'll see the three, (inner) nuts, on the strut top holding the strut to bush via slotted holes. This allows for camber adjustment so ideally you do not want this to change or it will affect the tracking / camber and ultimately tyre wear. 
If you have access to tracking and camber checking equipment it would be prudent to check it before hand anyway, (car must be level and on flat ground with nominal load.)
Use something like a paint touch up stick to mark the exact position of the strut top bush as it will move when undone. You could also use a sharp pick to scratch around the outline of it on the spring retainer plate below.
You can now remove the three nuts and lift off the strut to bush along with any spacer bush. In the hole you should see a yellow bump stop rebound rubber, pull this off. If the strut gaiters are damaged it's a good opportunity to replace they are not expensive direct from Audi, (at least in the UK). They can be a little tricky to fit working through the spring but it can be done, if you can't get them on don't be tempted to raise the car until the strut top is reassembled. The gaiter can be done afterwards as long as it's in position over the damper shaft. 
Now use the socket tube tool, (matra 2069a or equivalent), to undo the hex in the hole and remove the nut. The damper, (or strut insert), should now pull up through the hole and out. check the hole isn't full of oil from the old insert leaking and clean out if required. (note if the hex nut is very tight get some assistance to help you keep the tool upright because if you slip off it may damage the hex to a point where strut removal will be required to solve, some penetrating fluid wouldn't hurt either.. 
Replace with your new damper insert and a little copper grease on the thread will help the hex back on, torque with the tool to 177 lbf ft (240 nm)
Replace the strut top bush aligning with previous marks, remembering to replace bump rubber first, and tighten all nuts including the damper shaft.
once it is all back together you can raise the car if you need to finish fitting new gaiters.


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## zytec (May 13, 2006)

*Re: how to change front struts????????? (TROVR6)*

found this also:- 
http://tech.bentleypublishers....art=0
(note:- there is a 28mm version of the 2069 tool, but my A6 was 33mm which is 2069a the one in the link). I'd think your A6 shape 100 would the same, but it might be worth checking with some audi dealers or specialists to be sure)


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