# how does one properly flush engine oil?



## turbonium89 (Aug 1, 2008)

just did a minor rebuild on a 2002 1.8t and new oil is already dirty with 10miles. i had flushed the system by pouring 8 quarts through with the drain plug open, then did hundreds of hours cleaning the block, rebuilt the head, new oil pump and pick up tube, new mann oil filter, new timing belt and water pump, new timing chain tensioner, and new synthetic oil. whats gonna be the next best way to clean the engine sine the rebuild is complete and obviously theres still a lot of old. . i want to say sludged oil in the system.


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## Dennis M (Jan 26, 2012)

turbonium89 said:


> just did a minor rebuild on a 2002 1.8t and new oil is already dirty with 10miles. i had flushed the system by pouring 8 quarts through with the drain plug open, then did hundreds of hours cleaning the block, rebuilt the head, new oil pump and pick up tube, new mann oil filter, new timing belt and water pump, new timing chain tensioner, and new synthetic oil. whats gonna be the next best way to clean the engine sine the rebuild is complete and obviously theres still a lot of old. . i want to say sludged oil in the system.


I probably would have done one or two short intervals (50-100 miles) on cheap conventional oil before using synthetic. Another option is an engine flush like Amsoil. http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...nd-protectants/engine-and-transmission-flush/


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## turbonium89 (Aug 1, 2008)

also should state that i have new turbo and oil lines, plus entirely new pcv set up. reason i haven't gone on long trek yet is because i have low enough oil pressure to keep the timing chain tensioner from properly adjust and the oil is really dark


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

www.autorx.com

and follow its flush instructions.

PAO-based (Group IV) oil isn't recommended with AutoRX


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## TooSlick (Feb 17, 2000)

I'd just do a few short (~ 1000 mile) runs with an inexpensive oil. I'd probably use a 15w-40, commercial engine oil (CJ-4/SM or SN) for this. These oils are formulated for use in turbocharged engines and even though they aren't explicitly tested to VW 502.00 specifications, they'll be fine for this type of very short use.

TS


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## turbonium89 (Aug 1, 2008)

thanks guys


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## Tripicana (Dec 17, 2004)

pouring oil in the valve cover with the drain plug open does nothing. you need to run the engine, so it circulates and picks up contaminants. as said before, short 50 mile oil changes, with new oil filters each time, would be best.
im confused what a minor rebuild is?


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## turbonium89 (Aug 1, 2008)

i think of minor rebuild as taking the engine all apart except the crank case, and cleaning everything, rebuilt head, and new oil pump, new timing chain tensioner, new water pump and timing belt. 

major rebuild is everything listed above and redoing the crank case. 

reason i never touched crank case was because i never had a code for knock, no metal in the oil, and checked rod bearings and they were fine.


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## stratclub (Feb 3, 2007)

There would be no code for "Knock". The ECU does not monitor engine bearing clearance. 

A knock related code would have something to do with the knock sensor which senses detonation, not main bearing wear.


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