# O2 Sensor code HELP 00537



## VentoMKIII (Feb 24, 2008)

*O2 Sensor code HELP 00537 all hope is being lost*

I have code 00537, I have put 3 different o2 sensors in the car and i still get the code. the code came on shortly after i put an air fuel ratio gauge in my car. I took it out and still getting the code. I cut the sending wire and soldered it. Still nothing. What could be the problem. I also have no vacuum leaks. :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:

1995 OBD1 Jetta 2.0 ABA

Read out results on page 2


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

Guess moving the distributor didn't really fix it, huh? 

Have you COMPLETELY eliminated the A/F LED blinker gauge and all associated wiring? Did you solder wires on the harness side or sensor side?


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## VentoMKIII (Feb 24, 2008)

Anony00GT said:


> Guess moving the distributor didn't really fix it, huh?
> 
> Have you COMPLETELY eliminated the A/F LED blinker gauge and all associated wiring? Did you solder wires on the harness side or sensor side?


it helped it run better but didnt fix the problem. the A/F gauge is completely disconnected everything is gone with it. I soldered the wires on the harness side.


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## VentoMKIII (Feb 24, 2008)

the code that was coming up before in my other post was 00525. That one no longer comes up, it is just 00537 now. I normally figure **** out when i get codes, this one just has me beat :banghead:


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

Might want to ditch the Chinese O2 sensor for a good Bosch (direct fit) one.

Resistance test across the harness to verify your solder job didn't add too much resistance to the wire as well.


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## VentoMKIII (Feb 24, 2008)

Anony00GT said:


> Might want to ditch the Chinese O2 sensor for a good Bosch (direct fit) one.
> 
> Resistance test across the harness to verify your solder job didn't add too much resistance to the wire as well.


I tried the ebay o2 sensor, a mustang one, and an OEM Bosch one. Same problem with all of them. How do i resistance test them?


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

Resistance test the harness, between the ECU and sensor connector.


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## VentoMKIII (Feb 24, 2008)

is there supposed to be a certain resistance on a certain wire or something?


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

Very little. Less than 2 ohms.


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## VentoMKIII (Feb 24, 2008)

Tested boshe sensor eBay sensor and the mustang one I had in, in the first place. All of them work. So my current o2 sensor is good. I recently noticed my car is burning a **** ton of fuel too. Sound tested my injectors and all are clicking. What should I look for next


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

How did you test them? What are the resistance readings across the harness between the O2 sensor to ECU?


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## VentoMKIII (Feb 24, 2008)

I bench tested them with a propane torch. I don't remember the exact readings but all of them were fluctuating like they were supposed to.


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

lolwut? Who taught you that test? :facepalm: 

Check them with a capable scan tool, or scope, while in the car. Force mixture rich/lean and monitor both min/max voltages and switch time. 

Resistance across the harness?


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## VentoMKIII (Feb 24, 2008)

i dont have a scan tool that reads voltage, and i dont know where to go because im OBD I


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

How are you pulling codes? You can test resistance in the harness with a simple ohmmeter. 

Go to the VCDS forum, there's a sticky locator thread. Type in your zip code, there are many people willing to help out for a few bucks or a 6-pack.


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## VentoMKIII (Feb 24, 2008)

I have a v-checker code reader which allows me to read codes but does not go into great detail about what is wrong, and i can not read voltage. I used an ohm meter and the harness and o2 sensor are working properly. I bought an aftermarket header a while ago and put my o2 sensor in that instead of in the front of my cat. I moved it 3 inches back into the cat and so far no code, but i havent driven it too far


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

Did you have it in one runner of the header? Or in the collector at the bottom?


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## VentoMKIII (Feb 24, 2008)

I had it at the collector at the bottom, threw the code. Put the o2 spacers on it there, threw the code. Put it back in my cat, got the code. I cleared it every time I moved it and the code keeps coming back


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

See if you can get a Vag-Com scan with some data. Watch actual O2 sensor activity and trims while the car is running.


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## VentoMKIII (Feb 24, 2008)

Im trying to find someone in the area with vag-com


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## gti_32 (Jan 11, 2009)

You can scan it with a snapon modis


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

gti_32 said:


> You can scan it with a snapon modis


Ahahahahahahahaha

You said "Snap-on Modis"

Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha

Now let me recommend a scan tool that actually works with VW and doesn't cost north of $10k: www.ross-tech.com


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## VentoMKIII (Feb 24, 2008)

Smoke tested it 2 days ago, and there are no leaks. Meeting up with a guy today to vac com me and hopfully be able to figure something out. I have never used vag com before, what should i be looking for?


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

Firstly get a scan, make sure you're pulling correct and complete code list with the tool you're using. Then watch Lambda readings, MAF, and O2 sensor activity.


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## VentoMKIII (Feb 24, 2008)

I got it hooked up to vag com and pulled the codes. It came up 00537 8-10 controll limit surpasses - intermittent. Every thing was working well with it and where it was supposed to be but still can't figure out the code.


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

Can you post the whole engine section of the scan, not just the code? There is more information there that may be helpful.

Also, what are the values in measuring blocks 001, 031, 032, and 033 at idle?


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## VentoMKIII (Feb 24, 2008)

We looked at the engine values in the blocks and ever thing was with in the tolerances. There were no red ****. MAFS, o2, timing everything was good. I don't remember exactly what the numbers were though.


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

The numbers are critical to the diagnosis. I can't help you if "in spec" is the only info you can provide.

What I'm looking for is fuel trim and lambda data, as well as actual O2 sensor output and cycling (in volts). Values can be technically "in spec" enough to not throw faults, yet there still be a mixture imbalance that the ECU can interpret as a bad O2 sensor.


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## VentoMKIII (Feb 24, 2008)

I can get another reading then and see what i comes up next time i meet up with this guy


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

Double-post


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

When you do, get a complete auto-scan, save it. Take screenshots of the blocks I mentioned also, save them.

Since you don't have constant access, after doing the above, clear codes, then activate basic settings 034, 037 (hold 2200-2500RPM for 034 and 037 IIRC), and 041 (idle), take screenshots of results. Then check for codes again.

Then you can post all the info up here and we have something meaningful to work with 

Note: These are OBDII functions that I recall offhand. Being OBDI, they may not all give you results on your car, but I think they should.


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## VentoMKIII (Feb 24, 2008)

ok ill post every thing up when i can get it. There was certain things the kid was not able to do or get into because of it being obd1, but ill get as much info as i can for it.


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## AEG2.SLOW (Sep 13, 2011)

VentoMKIII said:


> I cut the sending wire and soldered it.
> 1995 OBD1 Jetta 2.0 ABA


You CAN NOT solder the signal wire on a narrow band oxygen sensor (on the sensor side of the harness). If you did, this is more than likely your issue. The wire draws air through the insulation to reference the outside air vs. what's inside the pipe. You have to use a butt connector to connect, as it will not hinder air flow like soldering will.


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

AEG2.SLOW said:


> You CAN NOT solder the signal wire on a narrow band oxygen sensor (on the sensor side of the harness). If you did, this is more than likely your issue. The wire draws air through the insulation to reference the outside air vs. what's inside the pipe. You have to use a butt connector to connect, as it will not hinder air flow like soldering will.


This is true. I was under the impression he soldered the harness, hence my request for resistance numbers between the connector and ECU. Numbers the OP has yet to post.

That being said, O2 sensor circuits are much more sensitive to resistance variations than are, say, taillight circuits. Butt connectors are also a bad idea (for anything automotive), as they don't always make a good connection and tend to allow water intrusion when used in external applications. W-crimps with heat shrink is ideal, but if an O2 sensor wire is broken on the sensor side, best bet is to just replace the sensor rather than fix the wire.

Soldering improperly can also increase resistance across any wire (hence the reason VW has issued TSB's advising not to use solder as a wiring repair).


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## VentoMKIII (Feb 24, 2008)

AEG2.SLOW said:


> You CAN NOT solder the signal wire on a narrow band oxygen sensor (on the sensor side of the harness). If you did, this is more than likely your issue. The wire draws air through the insulation to reference the outside air vs. what's inside the pipe. You have to use a butt connector to connect, as it will not hinder air flow like soldering will.



I tried 3 different o2 sensor, 2 of which were not soldered. The one that is in now is soldered but it is also shrink wrapped and electrical taped.


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## VentoMKIII (Feb 24, 2008)

IDLE BLOCK 1








IDLE BLOCK 2








IDLE BLOCK 3








IDLE BLOCK 5








IDLE BLOCK 6









2000 RPM BLOCK 1








2000 RPM BLOCK 2








2000 RPM BLOCK 3








2000 RPM BLOCK 4








2000 RPM BLOCK 5








2000 RPM BLOCK 6


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## VentoMKIII (Feb 24, 2008)

That is the data that i have with the car running while the code is on. I can clear the code and post those readings if needed


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

Here's what to do next:

Perform a complete auto-scan, save the results (copy and paste the whole thing in the thread, I want to see a couple things).

Then clear the code, let idle to operating temp.

Use all 3 display fields. Blocks 001, 003, and 006. Then, when all fields are displaying data simultaneously, click the "LOG" button, and then "START". Go for a ride, with at least one or two WOT blasts to redline, 2nd or 3rd gear. Also include some light-throttle cruising in high gear. VCDS will save all that data as you drive in a log file, which can then be opened in Excel to analyze what's happening as you drive. I'm looking for MAF activity (calculated load is as close as we can get with this controller), as well as Lambda values during actual vehicle operation.


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## VentoMKIII (Feb 24, 2008)

I should be getting these reading tomarrow


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## VentoMKIII (Feb 24, 2008)

Results from driving are posted

[url]https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B6s_gqA72PQQcFhBOUFGaE4xcEk/edit[/URL]


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

Linky no worky.


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## VentoMKIII (Feb 24, 2008)

it should be good now


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

Looks like a bad MAF. You never exceeded 54% calculated load based on MAF readings.


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## VentoMKIII (Feb 24, 2008)

Ok cool ill get ahold of another one an hive it a try


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## VentoMKIII (Feb 24, 2008)

I tried 4 different MAFS and none of them read right. Could there be somthing not letting it get full voltage? Or do I just have ****ty MAFS?


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

What kind are you trying? Aftermarket ones are generally junk. Get genuine Bosch (beware of clones from China), or one from the dealer.

Also make sure you have no vacuum leaks.


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## VentoMKIII (Feb 24, 2008)

My friend and I were doing some voltage testing on it tonight. We found when giving it gas that it wasn't reading right but when he put his hand in front of the intake blocking off some air, the voltage shot up where it should be. Could I have my intake be too open it's thawing a code?


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## AEG2.SLOW (Sep 13, 2011)

Do you have a factory airbox?

Sent from my HTC One V using Tapatalk 2


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## VentoMKIII (Feb 24, 2008)

No i have an AEG intake manifold swap, with a 3 inch CAI


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## AEG2.SLOW (Sep 13, 2011)

Are you using the factory maf housing or are you putting the sensor in the tube? 

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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

Oh, the car is modified with more than just a header. That changes things quite a bit. Would have been good information to have. In the future, include a complete mod list in the original post, it'll save a lot of time.

AEG2.SLOW is absolutely right. Use factory size plumbing with factory MAF (including housing). Avoid oiled air filters, use paper.


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## AEG2.SLOW (Sep 13, 2011)

To save you a bit of time in the future ill give you a brief explanation as to how a hot film/wire MAF works. Inside the unit is a element that is heated to produce a certain resistance. As air travels across it, the element is cooled and more voltage is applied to maintain the constant resistance. The ecu reads the voltage, and the intake air temp, then calculates the actual mass of the incoming air charge. Now, the sensor samples a certain % of the total tube size and this is known by the ecm. When you change the tube size you are changing the ratio of sensor size vs. Tube size and this will allow more air to travel around the MAF instead of through it. If your MAF is in the larger tube instead of the OEM housing this will cause your low voltage reading as less air is travelling across the element. :beer:

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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

While all that is true, his original problem is misleading. The ECU has more "trust" in the MAF than the O2 sensor. So when they don't match and there's no MAF circuit issue, it'll flag an O2 sensor as lazy.

I'm not sure why the ECU didn't pick up the load change when calculating MAF vs TPS. OBDI probably doesn't do the cross-check.

Had we known the full mod list from the getgo, the diagnostic path would have been different. This is an issue with diagnosing cars over the internet as opposed to getting hands-on with them in person.


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## AEG2.SLOW (Sep 13, 2011)

Anony00GT said:


> While all that is true, his original problem is misleading. The ECU has more "trust" in the MAF than the O2 sensor. So when they don't match and there's no MAF circuit issue, it'll flag an O2 sensor as lazy.
> 
> I'm not sure why the ECU didn't pick up the load change when calculating MAF vs TPS. OBDI probably doesn't do the cross-check.
> 
> Had we known the full mod list from the getgo, the diagnostic path would have been different. This is an issue with diagnosing cars over the internet as opposed to getting hands-on with them in person.


I agree 100%

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## VentoMKIII (Feb 24, 2008)

My bad for not listing all the upgrades, ill put a stock MAFS sensor housing on it and see how it goes. Thanks for the help :beer:


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## VentoMKIII (Feb 24, 2008)

****update***** if anyone else has this problem, and has the vr6 mafs housing on their 2.0 that was the issue. I swapped the 2.0 housing back on and it fixed the issues.


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