# No Power to fuel pump AMU engine 225 TT



## coachvtt (Jan 16, 2008)

Ok! I posted this on another Audi web-site but looking for answers!
I changed the spark plugs after disc battery. I changed plugs.
Reconnected the battery..tried to start car and would turn over but not start.
Re-did the whole process again...tried to start again nothing.
I checked the fuel line and it was bone dry at the fuel rail...
I checked fuse to fuel pump on side panel with test light it was ok...
I checked the relay to fule pump under dash clicks on off when turning key ok...
I purchased new fule pump and installed..PITA!!!!
I reconnected everything and no power to the pump...? Why? WTF?
I get power everywhere but to the pump...I used test light to check connector no power?
Anyone?...Does the wire harness have anything to do with power to the fuel pump?:banghead:
I purchased a new wire Harness from ECS and the N75 and and temp sender connection differnet from my orig wire harness? AMU engine code 225Q 2001 coupe...? will be calling them...
Anyone with an answer? I will accecpt phone calls 561-662-2454 CoachV
Happy Turkey Day!


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## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

The relay clicks over. From there check to see if there is power on the output from the relay. If no I would swap relays and see where that gets you.


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## coachvtt (Jan 16, 2008)

Audiguy84 said:


> The relay clicks over. From there check to see if there is power on the output from the relay. If no I would swap relays and see where that gets you.


Yes when I turn the key the relay kicks or clicks on and off...so relay is fine..I'm guessing...
thanks...evidentally this has not happened to anyone?


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## coachvtt (Jan 16, 2008)

the only codes i'm throwing are o2 sensors,,mass air and secodary air pump..I have the diode Mod..no cat and no emmisions..
any answer on why still no power to the fuel pump..all relays and fuses check out ok...anyone..?

How about the oil pressure switch or relay..anyone with a location of those..I check side panel fuse box all ok..i checked all relays under drivers dash all click on off with key switch..

still no power to fuel pump..whats the deal..?:banghead::banghead:


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## motorlager (Sep 26, 2005)

Can you hear the the fuel pump prime when you open the door? Could be a crank sensor. 

In vcds run output diagnostic test mode (function 03 in). The fuel pump should be running during this time and you can hear the hissing at the fuel rail. 

If the fuel pump works then move on to display group 1 (function 08) and you should see about 250 rpms during cranking. If not the crank sensor could be bad so you will get no fuel/spark during cranking.


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## coachvtt (Jan 16, 2008)

motorlager said:


> Can you hear the the fuel pump prime when you open the door? Could be a crank sensor.
> 
> In vcds run output diagnostic test mode (function 03 in). The fuel pump should be running during this time and you can hear the hissing at the fuel rail.
> 
> If the fuel pump works then move on to display group 1 (function 08) and you should see about 250 rpms during cranking. If not the crank sensor could be bad so you will get no fuel/spark during cranking.


No buzz from fuel pump...will I get a code from a bad crank sensor? If the ECU is faulty , I should not be able to get any codes at all correct?...


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## hunTTsvegas (Aug 27, 2012)

Before jumping into more expensive components, try to track down the voltage. Using a multimeter, check for the exact voltage (if any) at the fuel pump. If there is none there, go back to under the dash where the relay is. Tracing the voltage typically leads to the problem causing the voltage. Just because the relay clicks doesn't necessarily mean it's good or functioning properly. Always helps troubleshooting electronic components by either starting at the source and working toward the problem (i.e. Battery to relay and if it checks out then move on to: relay to pump) or in reverse order. 

Hope you find the problem!


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## coachvtt (Jan 16, 2008)

hunTTsvegas said:


> Before jumping into more expensive components, try to track down the voltage. Using a multimeter, check for the exact voltage (if any) at the fuel pump. If there is none there, go back to under the dash where the relay is. Tracing the voltage typically leads to the problem causing the voltage. Just because the relay clicks doesn't necessarily mean it's good or functioning properly. Always helps troubleshooting electronic components by either starting at the source and working toward the problem (i.e. Battery to relay and if it checks out then move on to: relay to pump) or in reverse order.
> 
> Hope you find the problem!


Well..I took it to my guy...He says the problem is in the ECU, because when he was able to get power to the pump the ecu turned it off...I asked about the crank position sensor..he said he will check..then I aked about the hall sender...then too the ECU...PITA...Do ECU's go bad?
Does anyone have the crank posion sensor part # I have a parts book but cannot find...
Thanks


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## coachvtt (Jan 16, 2008)

*Update with ongoing problem!*

I had my guy go ahed and take out the ECU..I tried myself at his place gat to it but could not take out. I explained to him to take out and get the part number off the ECU...Hrs later he calls me and says its running..I asked and he says it was a ground wire or relay next too the ECU... 
I asked for him to show me and he gave me an answer that it was behind the ECU... 
No codes no grahp as too what he had done... Lose ground wire was his answer... 
He can give me no proof of anything changed or repaired..He is asking $560.00 
Althouhg he has power to the fuel pump...lose ground wire he says..! 
Are you kidding me...I argued the fact that 5hrs was supposidly spent on gettting it running... 
I take tha car drive a few hundred yards and it start misfireing...I take it to advanced auti..they hook up the OBD no codes...I disc the mass air flow..then take a reading again..shows code for bad mass air..ok I reconnect clear that code..but still have misfire with no codes... 
I purchase one coil pack thats all the had...I replace cyl 1 through 4 changing on down the line... 
still have bad misfire somewhere...can't figure it out...I will be changing the o2 sensors today front and rear...I purchased the crankshft positon sensor and will replace I purchased the Hall sender will replace that as well and I purchased the V-checker Pro from ECS..so 
anything else someone may suggest?....PITA...:banghead: 
I'm ready to get rid of thei TT...too many probl:banghead:ems...2001 157,000 miles.... 

I've had it with this thing......:wave:


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## coachvtt (Jan 16, 2008)

*ok..one more thing*

I changed the Cranshaft sensor..new fuel pump..two coil packs all spark plugs.. 

new connectors to wire harness tomorrow....enough already... 

still misfire random too all coil packs... 

Bought the V-Checker Pro from ECS...awesome...far less expensive that the Vag-com....:thumbup: 

Codes P1114 
P1476 
P1602 

:banghead:


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## motorlager (Sep 26, 2005)

You have a very large vacuum leak. Large enough to throw the p1476 code. I would start by clamping off the evap purge valve hose, they can stick open. 

If not start checking your boost hoses and vacuum lines. 

Edit: Im not psychic, just throwing out some ideas and pattern failures. Hope you get it figured out soon:thumbup:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

How is your wiring harness? You know, the one that connects all these components to the ECU ...


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## coachvtt (Jan 16, 2008)

motorlager said:


> You have a very large vacuum leak. Large enough to throw the p1476 code. I would start by clamping off the evap purge valve hose, they can stick open.
> 
> If not start checking your boost hoses and vacuum lines.
> 
> Edit: Im not psychic, just throwing out some ideas and pattern failures. Hope you get it figured out soon:thumbup:


 EVAP purge valve Hose? is located? I deleted all the emmisions etc with the Diode mod... 
I will check all hoses... 
thanks


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## coachvtt (Jan 16, 2008)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> How is your wiring harness? You know, the one that connects all these components to the ECU ...


 I have all four new connectors for the coil packs in the process of changing these... 

Thanks


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

coachvtt said:


> I have all four new connectors for the coil packs in the process of changing these...
> 
> Thanks


 Chances are, the plug end of the harness that you're changing, if bad, are only the tip of the iceberg. I unwrapped my harness over the summer, trying to cure mystery misfires...and the more I unwrapped, the more damage was waiting for me. :beer:


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Chances are, the plug end of the harness that you're changing, if bad, are only the tip of the iceberg. I unwrapped my harness over the summer, trying to cure mystery misfires...and the more I unwrapped, the more damage was waiting for me. :beer:


 This is what I'm thinking.


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## hunTTsvegas (Aug 27, 2012)

coachvtt said:


> I asked and he says it was a ground wire or relay next too the ECU...


 That's what I assumed. All of those components share a common ground, more than likely (without having wiring schematics in my hand). Just as the rest of the guys are saying too.. I would look into replacing the harness. I know ECSTuning has a replacement harness for a decent price. I was thinking of doing the same thing as while I was replacing my clutch, I found quite a few "weathered" spots that could have caused problems had I not corrected them. 

Hope things start looking up!


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## coachvtt (Jan 16, 2008)

*Well! an Update*

I changed the wire harness as far back as I could... 
ECS did not have a complete wire harness the 225..only the 180 in stock.. 
I bought all for connectors and the wires are pretty long so I unwrapped the 
old harness and yes amany cracks...re-wired the ground and each wire... 
was not as hard as I thought it would be....time consuming.... 
I have the V-checker and still tells me misfire cyl 1 and 2 and random through all four 
runs nasty...I chaanged all four coil packs..still same codes... 
Battery re-chared..getting 1682 low voltage.... 
so..I gave up and its at the Stealership....will be big Money I'm sure.... 
Thanks guys that responded...


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## hunTTsvegas (Aug 27, 2012)

Dang, sorry to hear that! I'll send a tube of KY for you.. on the house!


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## coachvtt (Jan 16, 2008)

*Problem solved...*



hunTTsvegas said:


> Dang, sorry to hear that! I'll send a tube of KY for you.. on the house!


 Gee thanks....:screwy: 

Well after several hundred bucks...Stealership...says the aftermarket coil packs I had were crap 
and no good...he re-wired the harnes again..to make sure it was done correctly which it was but took the rewire all the way to the ecu..repaired AND RUNNING LIKE NEW.. 
ALL COMPRESSION TO ALL FOUR CYLINDERS ARE PERFECT..FOR 157,000 MILES 
IT's NICE TOO HEAR... Yes! over paid them biut it runs like new...Braman Audi WPB... 
thanks for all the help gentlemen..till the next hick-up...:wave:


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