# Seat belt switch fault



## The Veg (May 25, 2006)

So I have the seat belt switch high resistance fault code...have done some searching and reading here and seen that the usual fix is to replace the belt-end that connects to the seat. But I have an unorthodox question about a different fix.
Is there any reason why I couldn't just bypass the switch?
I presume that the switch closes when the belt is fastened. Is this correct? If so, then is there any reason why I couldn't just cut the wires going to the switch and connect them directly?
Other than the switch, the belt works perfectly and seems like a great waste to replace just for the switch.


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## fast03gti1.8t (Jan 5, 2007)

I would like answer to this too.
I have the same code thrown.


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## Hoffasenior (Nov 7, 2004)

Myself as well. I can't find the switch online either. I checked many sites, but came up w/ nothing.


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## sugarbuggy (Sep 13, 2008)

*Re: (Hoffasenior)*

I think that you must replace the whole latch. The switch is built into it and I doubt that you can open the latch without destroying it.
As to wiring the circuit to bypass the switch I would be very careful about that. If the switch has a resistance and you connect wires directly it would be a short circuit. This could cause problems in other circuits like the airbag module or airbag MIL system. I don't know for sure, just my speculation.


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## Hoffasenior (Nov 7, 2004)

Thanks.


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## gbovino (May 14, 2002)

*Re: Seat belt switch fault (The Veg)*

I know this thread may be a bit old... but I thought I would chime in with what I did to resolve my issue and get rid of the pesky seat belt warning light. I pulled the seat out this morning (pretty easy task) since the wires for the heated seats had pinched and were almost cut in half. It seems the technician who serviced my heated seats several years ago forgot to tie wrap the wires to the proper places. It was just dangling waiting to be damaged.
While I had the seat off the tracks... I was able to removed the seat belt latch assembly using a 15mm wrench I believe. You'll have to have the seat off the tracks to properly remove it. Then I removed the the terminal block connection at the other end under the seat.
Now that the whole assembly was out, I checked the wiring for any pinches. There are basically four wires that are bound by heat shrink wrapping. Everything looked good. Next, I pried open the latch assembly. Once it was open, I could see that the four wires split with the yellow and (blue?) going to a pair of resistors. I tested the resistors and they seemed fine. Hmmmmm. Tested each wire and found the yellow had no continuity from the terminal block to the latch. I then snipped a bit of the insulation away on the yellow wire to test from there to the block (about 1 inch away from the latch)... yip. Good from there to the terminal block. No good from there to the latch. Ripped open the heat shrink there and tadaaa! The wire had fatigued itself in half. I stripped insulation on both ends and hit it with some solder (maybe not the best way, but I just wanted it done with). Put everything back together and wrapped everything with electrical tape instead of shrink.
Awesome, everything worked and I saved myself $130 for the time being (or until my side airbag goes off by accident







)


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