# 2003 Passat Rear Pads replacement question



## bearing01 (May 27, 2004)

Hi All,
I'm replacing the rear pads on a friends car this coming weekend (July 15th). As title says, it's a 2003 Passat 1.8 Turbo.
He said he did some research and came up with something about how you can't drive the pistons back like you would on a normal caliper. You have to screw them back. If this is the case, could someone please tell me how to do this... or maybe clarify what he's talking about.
Are the rear brakes on the 2003 passat any different than doing regular regular disc brakes?
Any advice, tips or suggestions please.
I don't have the bentley for this car. If someone could throw up the torque specs for the caliper guide pin bolts then that would be great.


----------



## GT17V (Aug 7, 2001)

Invest in this: $45
It's the tool for retract the piston in the rear caliper and comes with the wrench for holding the guide pin as you remove the bolt.
http://www.metalnerd.com


----------



## bearing01 (May 27, 2004)

*Re: (GT17V)*

So it appears, from the tool, then that the caliper pistons are screwed back into the caliper? No?


----------



## bearing01 (May 27, 2004)

*Re: (bearing01)*

Last night when I created this post the search didn't work. Here's what I found just then:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2025629
Question: Can you use a generic piston compressor tool? And does the generic tool have the ability to turn the piston? Apparently if you use a c-clamp to press the piston back in you can damage the auto-adjust mechanism for the rear brakes.
What's the auto-adjust mechanism for? Pistons on hydraulic brakes should naturally make their way out of the caliper as the pad wears. Is this something for the hand break? Even so, wouldn't the e-break have its own separate mechanical breaking mechanism like shoes?


----------



## GT17V (Aug 7, 2001)

The e-brake is built into the caliper, so it uses the caliper itself.
Other cars, such as Toyotas, have a drum brake that pushes against the rotor hat as their e-brake.
You can also use general piston tools to screw in the piston such as this one (which is what I have):








Others use the "cube" tool... then others grab a buddy to use a set of channel locks and a C-clamp to push and turn the piston in


_Modified by GT17V at 1:00 PM 7-10-2006_


----------



## bearing01 (May 27, 2004)

*Re: (GT17V)*

Thanks,
I pulled some info off the "http: volkswagen msk ru/index.php?p=page08"
and I have an understanding of how it works now.
I think I'll pick up the "cube tool" at sears for like $12. Probably a bit more of a "pain in the a$$" than a fancy tool like yours. But then, if it takes me an hour, so what considering I don't know when I'll be using that tool again. 
Thanks 


_Modified by bearing01 at 6:09 PM 7-10-2006_


----------



## hazard (Apr 14, 2006)

*Re: 2003 Passat Rear Pads replacement question (bearing01)*

I'm doing mine right now. Used a " C " clamp to apply some pressure and then turned it with water pumps. Kind of a pain but it worked. How far does it go in? The little rubber boot is sitting folded around it real nice. But when I go to slide it over the new pads it is tight. So tight that I have to tap it on with a hammer. This puts so much tension on the rotor that It cannot be turned by hand. These are aftermarket pads if that makes a difference. The old pads were completley worn out so I have no reference to start with.. If I have too I will grind off some of the pad to give it room but I would rather do it correctly if I can get an answer.


----------



## bearing01 (May 27, 2004)

*Re: 2003 Passat Rear Pads replacement question (hazard)*

I was just looking at the 1999 Golf Bentley that has similar brakes. It doesn't say how far it has to go in... just to turn the pistons clockwise while pressing them in.


----------



## Banditt007 (Oct 23, 2002)

*Re: 2003 Passat Rear Pads replacement question (bearing01)*

a trick here if you use the generic cube (which you may have to grind off some tabs on one side of it to make it fit) 
is to remove the rotor and then remount the caliper carrier and the caliper back onto the car, this allows the car to hold the caliper while you can work both hands pushing in the piston you need to push it in and turn it clockwise till it sits about flush. just push it in until the dust boot is about the same level as it, no need to push it further in than the dust boot sticks out.
if it does not want to go in turn it counter clockwise for a full turn and then again try pushing it in and turning clockwise,......it should go in then.
There is no set depth to push it in to, its just far enough so that you have made room for the new, thicker, pads.
also be careful not to mangle the dust boot with the cube when you push it in, as well as you may have to use one hand and hold the caliper so the slide pins dont hyper extend and mess up the caliper slide pin boots.


----------



## bearing01 (May 27, 2004)

*Re: 2003 Passat Rear Pads replacement question (Banditt007)*

The rear brake pad change was easy and straight forward. It's really no different than changing pads on generic disc brakes, except for how you push the piston back into the caliper. I used the $12 cube from Sears and didn't have to grind off any tabs. I would have been reluctant to grind any tabs in fear of creating sharp edges that could cut the piston dust boot.
Steps to follow:
1. Remove the calipers in normal fashion as you would for the Lucas-Girling style calipers. Just remove the two bolts from the caliper guide pins. Lift off the caliper and remove the pads.
2. Remove the circlip that holds the e-brake cable onto the caliper. Squeeze the caliper where the e-brake cable end connects. Remove the e-brake cable from the caliper.
3. Remove the rotor. This can be done by sliding it off/out of the hub without removing the caliper mounting bracket (caliper carrier). Reinstall the caliper on its mounting bracket and reinstall its mounting bolts in the guide pins.
4. Use a pry bar and insert it between the rear shock and the caliper (from behind the car). Get a friend to hold the bar in place against the back of the caliper, using the shock as the bar's pivot point. Now, if you push on the caliper the pry bar will prevent it from sliding on its guide pins. 
5.Use a 3/8" ratchet, 2" extension and the cube tool. Align the cube tool pins with the piston notches and lean into the ratchet (push) while you turn the ratchet/cube clockwise. The piston will move inward until it is level/flat with the dust boot. When piston is in nearly all the way the dust boot will begin to twist and wrinkle. Back out the piston a little to un-twist the boot. Like Bandit said, don't let the cube's other pins catch on the dust boot and damage it.
6. Remove the caliper again. Re-connect the e-brake cable and circlip. Reinstall the rotor. Put the new pads in the caliper mounting bracket (caliper carrier) and fit the caliper over the rotor with pads. Insert the bolts into the guide pins and tighten to spec'd torque.
7. You're done. Put the wheels on. Pump the brakes a few times and pull the e-brake lever a few times.
Just to note, at first I was using a 6" extension with the cube. When leaning into it to force the piston in I found it very unstable. The ratchet & cube would rock as I turned the ratchet and I'd always lose alignment between the piston and cube. Using the 2" extension made it more stable and easier to twist in the piston.

Thanks all for the suggestions.


----------



## SLiCKGTi (Jul 16, 2002)

*Re: 2003 Passat Rear Pads replacement question (bearing01)*

this may be a stupid question but do you have to bleed the brakes at all?


----------



## Banditt007 (Oct 23, 2002)

*Re: 2003 Passat Rear Pads replacement question (SLiCKGTi)*

during a standard pad and or rotor replacement you do not have to bleed the brakes.
only when the hydrolic system is opened do you HAVE to to bleed the brakes, like a brake line (metal or rubber) replacement, master cylinder replacement, caliper piston o ring replacement ect.
It is reccomended though, that the braking system have the brake fluid compeltely flushed with new fluid every 2 years.
plus you are already in there and whats another $10 and another 40 minutes...


----------

