# Rear main seal



## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

I have a 2010 Volkswagen CC 2.0 liter sport that's leaking oil and I found the culprit and it said the rear main seal I called Volkswagen to get a quote on it they quoted me for 10 hours of labor at $1,050 if I had the right to do you think it's possible or would it be easier for me to just do the job myself I have access to a mechanic who would loan me the tools but I am not a hundred percent certain that I can do this myself or is it worth spending the thousand dollars

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## Cpartipilo (Jul 19, 2012)

*i would not*

i have the same issue, luckily my leak is very tiny and not a major issue. You need to drop the transmission which means emptying the transmission before and refilling after.

It's a pain in the ass to do DIY in my opinion, and unless you are experienced there are too many things that can go wrong.


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

I do mechanic work but nothing of this magnitude really simple things long as I can Google and YouTube but I'll be fine but as you said a lot of things can go wrong

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## kbad (May 26, 2007)

hey man .. whichever way you go, make sure to use the iabed rms flange and you will never have to deal with this issue .. good luck!


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

So the link that you just sent me is there a website in which I can order this part do they make these kind of parts for the VeeDub

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## kbad (May 26, 2007)

you can email Issam directly ~$90 shipped, he is also on the vortex .. or order from excelerate performance http://www.excelerateperformance.com/news/2-0t-tsi-rear-main-seal-solution.. good luck!


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

So his is better than factory 

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## kbad (May 26, 2007)

.. waaaay better .. its what the factory part should have been .. nite and day difference and pretty much sealed for life under normal circumstances, whereas the oem is a ticker alright, even the updated version! .. follow the rms failure thread and go from there .. good luck!


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

kbad said:


> .. waaaay better .. its what the factory part should have been .. nite and day difference and pretty much sealed for life under normal circumstances, whereas the oem is a ticker alright, even the updated version! .. follow the rms failure thread and go from there .. good luck!


Well I guess I'm going to heed the warning and go ahead and get this replacement but if I don't have the tools or anything like that well I guess Volkswagen would not put the part on

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## OEMplusCC (Jan 27, 2013)

Maaan I dread the day this comes for me...


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## rroman (Aug 9, 2012)

I recently had mine done. Not only was it leaking oil (not much) but the car became un-driveable at times due to lots of misfires. I used an independent shop that I really like near me, all in price was $950. I was going to use the better seal mentioned above but decided to go OEM since that's what the shop uses and backs with their own warranty. 

It's a big job for a $48 part!


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

rroman said:


> I recently had mine done. Not only was it leaking oil (not much) but the car became un-driveable at times due to lots of misfires. I used an independent shop that I really like near me, all in price was $950. I was going to use the better seal mentioned above but decided to go OEM since that's what the shop uses and backs with their own warranty.
> 
> It's a big job for a $48 part!


Thanks for the information you guys are giving.....I think I'm going to order the part you guys recommend and get a independent shop to do it. It calls for ten hours but does it really need ten hours 

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## van33 (Dec 21, 2012)

OEMplusCC said:


> Maaan I dread the day this comes for me...


Do preemptive maintenance and replace the pcv now (newer version) or get a catch can with an africa plate that would replace the pcv and you don't have to worry about this anymore :thumbup:


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

Yeah I see that getting the new stuff will save a lot of money...What is the part number for the new pvc

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## The1Bill (Dec 8, 2009)

I'll be honest, if I was going to have the trans off anyways, I think I'd *strongly* consider a few other additions:

Limited Slip - I installed an mFactory.
Aluminium DSG Filter Housing - I got it from ECS.
Stainless Steel DSG Filter - from SSP.
Revision C DSG Cooler - I got it from ECS.
I've been quite happy with all of these.


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

Yeah if it has to come off why not....I want to keep the car for as long as I can 

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## The1Bill (Dec 8, 2009)

All of these could contribute to future longevity of the car. I have had two open differentials come apart on me (not with VWs, though), but have never had a helical LSD come apart.

The rest will keep the DSG cooler and/or or reduce the cost of a DSG service.


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

Awesome......I wonder why they don't just make the quality of parts better 

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## siili (May 12, 2013)

kbad said:


> you can email Issam directly ~$90 shipped, he is also on the vortex .. or order from excelerate performance http://www.excelerateperformance.com/news/2-0t-tsi-rear-main-seal-solution.. good luck!


I got this one and getting installed next week. my friend works at dealer (not vw) but he can do it for me. my rear main finally brown 2 weeks ago... it was leaking for a while like year..... I also have 2010... after this is done, I gotta do tensioner next.


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

siili said:


> I got this one and getting installed next week. my friend works at dealer (not vw) but he can do it for me. my rear main finally brown 2 weeks ago... it was leaking for a while like year..... I also have 2010... after this is done, I gotta do tensioner next.


Well I'm gonna order that one and then get it installed...I know someone who can do it for me for 900 also can someone briefly explain the biggest difference between the factory one and the one above 

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## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

The VW factory seal is glued (!!) to a stamped steel metal plate. The glue bond breaks, and then the seal leaks. The INA seal is pressed into a machined metal plate, not relying on glue to hold it at its outer periphery. A pressed-in seal is how a crankshaft seal is almost always done...VW did this to save weight (the sheetmetal plate probably weighs a pound less than the cast iron block material it replaces.....VW Engineering should be ashamed of this crappy design....probably the same Engineer who specified the sintered ratchet part of the lower timing chain tensioner, so that VW could save 5 cents......


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## kbad (May 26, 2007)

CC'ed said:


> ... VW Engineering should be ashamed of this crappy design ....


ashamed is not enuf .. hung by their short hairs would make a better point! .. stupid morons!!!


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

Well then it's done I'm going to order the better version of that...Is there a better tensioner while I'm at it 

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## snobrdrdan (Sep 10, 2008)

gunitd50 said:


> Well then it's done I'm going to order the better version of that...Is there a better tensioner while I'm at it


The newest/latest version of OEM:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?8456609-Timing-chain-tensioner-revisions


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## majpaine (Mar 2, 2017)

Anyone know what the tool is called to reinstall the seal and a part number?
Ive have been trying to locate one and all I can come up with is one for a TDI version T10134 and when I go to purchase and select my car which is a TSI it says it will not work.
Any idea which tool to use for the TSI motor?

Thanks,


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## gunitd50 (Apr 12, 2014)

I wish I could help you but I can't I ended up going to the dealer and getting it done there 

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## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

You don't really need the specified VW tool to install the rear main seal, just lube it, and the crankshaft surface with clean motor oil, and carefully slide it straight on, so as to not damage the edge of the seal.


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