# Battery ??



## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

Just needed to Jump Start the Croutan out of the blue.

The Battery has not demonstrated any signs of going dead. Van is a 2009, built in 09' with just over 50K miles on her.

Has anyone replaced their battery yet ??


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## Zambee500 (Jun 23, 2011)

I have not replaced the battery on our Routan, but would be worth testing the battery and alternator before spending $100+ assuming a bad battery. 

I would also throw out there that Interstate sells reconditioned batteries in the $30-$40 price range at their local distributors. Check out their web-site to find local distributors. These are batteries that simply stayed on mechanics' shelves too long past the expiration date that Interstate picks up and reconditions them to "good as new" but can only sell them as "reconditioned". You only get a 90-day warranty, but at that price you could replace it 3 or 4 times compared to the price of buying new at retail. 

The 94R battery on my Passat TDI was $150-ish at retail, but I got a $35 one from Interstate. And that was back in 2009. Still works as good as new.


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## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

had the alternator looked at and she passed the charging test... so it was the battery... 

had an Interstate thrown in, so she should be good for a few years, i hope


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## 58kafer (Jun 27, 2007)

I got the dreaded call last week--"The van won't start, and I'm in a fire zone". I was thinking the worst like the early shut off issues or the mystery no power issues. But I was thrilled that is was just the battery. Well, as thrilled as I can be for having to put a new battery in a 2.75 year old car. 56K and she just up and puckered out, we had one instance where it did a slow turn over but I just shrugged it off since my wife came home, shut it down and left like 3-4 minutes later. I just thought since it was a hot start coupled with super high outside temps too. So picked up a battery from Walmart, 800CCA instead of the wimpy 600CCA on the OEM battery. The Wally battery is heavier so it already is a better battery cause there are probably more plates in it. Heck even if it dies in just under 36 months I get a completely free one and it out lasted the OEM unit. Almost like a 2 for one deal. The whole swap take less than 10 minutes. 13mm socket with some extensions and a 10mm socket on a 1/4" drive and your good to go. One other strange thing I noticed was I check the oil the previous week and gave a look over and all was good, when I swapped the battery the ground cable had some corrosion on it. And a load test proved a failed battery. So those creeping in on the mileage/time be prepared!


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## Steveaut (Sep 16, 2010)

My battery is so far so good. I did have a couple occasions where the vehicle would not start. Waiting a while and suddenly would start again. The dealership couldn't identify any errors, but replaced the WIN anyway. Happened again since then. It seems I have to wait a while and then it will eventually start. 

Unfortunate if the battery doesn't last five years. My Jetta TDI is an 06, 112k miles and on the original battery; 7 years strong. I do think it is due though, has some corrosion fairly bad.

Does anyone have advice for removing corrosion for the batter cables when replacing? Proper way it should be done to prevent future problems?


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## Indigo20v (Mar 6, 2002)

Actually just replaced ours within days of hitting the 3yr mark as well, only we have (only) 27K on it. I'm attributing it to being relegated to outdoors only, now that we have the Boxster in it's space in the garage. The Negative terminal was super corroded too.

Now I'm getting a heavy coolant smell at the drivers front side. Can't see any leaks anywhere either...


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## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

Indigo20v said:


> Now I'm getting a heavy coolant smell at the drivers front side. Can't see any leaks anywhere either...


I just replaced my Radiator cap last week, It just started to leak out of the blue, i lost about a QT of coolant.

I replaced it with a piece from Rock Auto, and topped off the coolant, its been perfect since.


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## Zambee500 (Jun 23, 2011)

I'm not sure it carried into the 2010 MY, so it might not affect you, but I believe the radiator cap had a TSB or recall to replace. You might try google to see if you can find the recall notice or TSB.

The heater hose assembly is another common leak point. You'll also smell it and not see it while the leak is small and before the Y-joint fails completely. Look for pinkish/reddish splatter marks inside your engine bay behind the radiator, driver's side. It's $340-ish to R&R at the dealership. If that's your coolant problem, you can save some money if you can get out in front of it, and a lot of money if you're handy with a wrench. Here's a link for if you want to read up on it: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5694882-Heater-Hose-Assembly-Leak


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## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

Zambee500 said:


> I'm not sure it carried into the 2010 MY, so it might not affect you, but I believe the radiator cap had a TSB or recall to replace. You might try google to see if you can find the recall notice or TSB.
> 
> The heater hose assembly is another common leak point. You'll also smell it and not see it while the leak is small and before the Y-joint fails completely. Look for pinkish/reddish splatter marks inside your engine bay behind the radiator, driver's side. It's $340-ish to R&R at the dealership. If that's your coolant problem, you can save some money if you can get out in front of it, and a lot of money if you're handy with a wrench. Here's a link for if you want to read up on it: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5694882-Heater-Hose-Assembly-Leak


thanks for that info...


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## cscsc (Jun 14, 2009)

Back to the Battery Issue - My 2009 was built 10/08, so it will be 5 this October and I will be replacing the battery before then just because.....

For those of you who have corrosion on the terminals:

With the battery removed, put a few spoons of Baking Soda in a small container [old soup can or something like that], fill half way with water and put the terminal into the can for a while to neutralize the junk on the terminal. When the bubbling stops, clean the terminal with a rag and perhaps a fine wire brush.

Before placing the terminals on the battery, clean the battery posts and the contact areas of the terminals with a piece of emery cloth to insure good contact. Then coat the battery posts with a liberal amount of anti-corrosive grease [No-Ox] and reassemble and tighten thoroughly. 

You should have no more corrosion issues for the life of the battery.


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## paf (Dec 6, 2010)

Good tip on the corrosion prevention!

Had to replace my battery just this week as it would not even turn the engine after being left overnight. 48K on the odometer and 3.5 years into it.

Here is a little trick I learned in this ordeal: If you are looking for a better deal on your battery, ask for a Dodge Caravan battery. I was getting 260+ dollar quotes when I said "Volkswagen" but when I asked the sales rep at Firestone to look up Dodge Caravan, they had one (not the bottom of the barrel either) for $109 bucks. WIN.

I find the battery life very short -- I am not accustomed to replacing the battery in just 3 years. I think the power doors and corrosion at the terminals probably shorten the life span considerably.


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## MozartMan (Jul 31, 2010)

I have 2009 SEL base trim with 33,000 miles and is still on original battery which makes it 5 years. But I guess I will have to replace it before winter comes.


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## Zambee500 (Jun 23, 2011)

I had to replace my battery a couple months ago at 82k miles. I posted about it in another thread, but i killed it running the VES without the motor running. Not an uncommon problem on the Chrysler minivan forums. Anyway, I did go to the Interstate distributor and they did not have in stock any of the refurbished batteries that fit the Chrysler/Routan. I think the guy said those have gone up to $45 now for refurbished, which is a helluva deal IMO. Anyway, they do sell direct to the public so I bought a new one for $70. He brought out a generic white/black Group 34 (?) battery and then asked how much I wanted to pay - gave me 3 or 4 prices based solely on the warranty duration, and based on what I chose he would apply the sticker/label for that line of Interstate battery. Literally the same battery.

On anti-corrosive, I've found the red spray paint stuff they sell at AZ and Advance, etc. for $2 or $3 works pretty well and stays on forever. Super easy too.


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## Zambee500 (Jun 23, 2011)

Zambee500 said:


> He brought out a generic white/black Group 34 (?) battery and then asked how much I wanted to pay - gave me 3 or 4 prices based solely on the warranty duration, and based on what I chose he would apply the sticker/label for that line of Interstate battery. Literally the same battery.


Let me add one clarification. The AGM batteries are different, and _expensive_. But for conventional batteries, at least for the Grp 34 I installed, Interstate apparently makes all of them to the same spec and then just stickers them as different product with different warranties.


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