# 2015 2.0t Sport Engine Mods II



## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Just made a few more mods to the 2.0 6-speed Sport. Previous Mods:
1) HPA Tune
2) HPA Cast Aluminum Intake Manifold
3) HPA Downpipe & Midpipe w/ Hi-Flow Catalytic Converter
4) HPA Hybrid K04 Turbo
5) Golf R Inter Cooler
6) CTS Turbo Hot/Cold pipes
7) Carbonio Stage II CAI
8) R8 Coils
9) Billy Boat 3” Exhaust109) HPA Red Dog Bone Mount
10) TTRS Hybrid Clutch
11) Koni Adjustable Struts / Shocks
12) Snow W/M Injection
13) Nitto 245/45/17 Drag Radials
With these mods in decent Springtime air (I live in Phoenix, Arizona), best 1/4 ET / MPH was 14.08 @ 103.89 MPH. Traction limited as I was running 26-28 PSI in the front tires so they still spin. Much less than my Michellin Pilot Super Sports I run on the street. This is my DD and I don’t want to bust a CV Joint or Axle. To calm down wheel-hop, I adjust the front Koni’s to their stiffest setting. 

I have since added the following:
1) HPA supplied Wagner Competition full-sized Inter Cooler
2) HPA supplied Ferrea +1mm Intake and Exhaust Valves, stiffer valve springs and titanium retainers
3) Bowl or pocket porting to both sides of the head with new bronze Valve Guides
4) New HPA Hybrid R430 Turbocharger
5) New Timing Chain set
6) FluidDampner Balancer
7) New HPA tune
8) South Bend Stage III Endurance Clutch with light-weight SM Flywheel with Kevlar Disk
9) ECS supplied short throw forward & back shifter components, billet bleeder block, braided steel hydraulic throwout bearing line. 
10) Strange to some, I pulled off the Carbonio CAI and re-installed the OEM air-box assembly using a K&N flat panel filter. Reason in doing so is on cold start-up, the idle would surge up and down and set the CEL for P050A. To get around this, I would hold the throttle to around 1500 RPM until the idle stabilized. So far the OEM unit doesn’t seem to have the problem. Not sure if that’s a tuning problem or improper air flow over the MAF. Will deal with this later. 

Yesterday, I went to Goodspeed in Scottsdale, AZ. At the time of my dyno runs to catalog the ECU, it was 107.4* ambient air temperature. By the time I drove home afterwards, it was 113* to 114*. Us locals don’t pay to much attention to the weather on a clear summer day. It’s either hot, hotter, or a little cooler today. But it does matter when you dyno a vehicle! 

Since this is a new combo with HPA and I’m the first outside their shop to use this new Turbo, we needed a safe tune and to further the safety, I’ve been driving around with 100 octane VP Fuel for the 1200 miles required to break in my new clutch before going WOT, more so if on a dyno. Snow Injection was turned off for data-logging. I don’t want a tune with W/M injection. 

I will get the new tune from HPA soon. I will run that tune again and data log with the 100 octane fuel. Once the 100 octane tuning is final, I will run the 91 octane street fuel we have here in Arizona (we don’t even get 93 octane here and our 91 octane is amongst the worst in the country due to EPA requirements). Ultimately, I will have a 91 octane and 100 octane tune for street or strip. 

No point now in showing dyno numbers as they are purposefully soft; tune is not fully worked out and it’s hotter than hell outside. But I’ll say it’s considerably better than previous. I will report once we finalize the tune. Which should be next week if all goes well. Did make two runs at the end with the Snow Injection on. It’s worth about 20 WHP across the entire RPM range when activated. I have start at 10 PSI and full at 18 PSI. 

Overall so far, the car was fun before but oh my...there’s no comparison! Before it would peak boost but not hold it more than a second or so. Now it holds it. I have seen 25# boost with the new parts but that’s in the morning when it’s around 88* ambient. This new turbo pushes more boost pressure so it needs less peak pressures than the K04. While on the dyno it peaked at around 22#. Plus, and I maybe wrong, I believe less restrictions in the system (ported head and larger valves) will reduce boost while still making more power. 
Interestingly, the Billy Boat exhaust that I love, is MUCH louder now. So much so, that after the final tuning is done, if it is still loud, I will go back to BB and get a resonator or something installed. It’s even loud in the cabin in 6th gear on the freeway. But it does sound cool!

Since I like to go to the drag strip, a weak link is the DM Flywheel. That’s one reason I changed to a SM Flywheel. The other was to gain more traction. By going to a lighter Clutch / Flywheel, you lessen the hit on launch. So far that has proven right as I can barely spin the street tires when before I could fry them. So hopefully not only will more HP help the car go down the track, so will traction improvements. 

All I know so far is there’s a black late model Charger R/T 5.7 still shaking his head over what happened! 

Will follow up within a week.


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## MikeVDubCC (Jun 7, 2018)

Wow, that's an impressive list of mods! Subscribing to this thread. Can't wait to see pics and videos.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## aym001 (Nov 15, 2010)

Your sounds awesome but with ur old setup. You only mustard a 14.0. I was whipped a brand new rt with my old ko3 by 2 car lengths. With those mods. Your car should b a 10sec car if u get ur traction under control. Good luck with ur build. I bet ur car is a highway king. I would debadge it go hunting


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

My old setup never hooked up but I watched AWD / Launch Control Golf R’s run in the 11’s with less engine mods. I went to drag radials and while it still spun, that was by design as I want to preserve the axles & CV joints. But lets say it was more of a control spin; more linear. With street tires it could spin, roast or wheel hop or all of the above. With drag radials it was a smooth spin. I once lowered the pressure to around 22# on the drag radials and it bogged the engine so bad it slowed the 60’ time by almost .500. And with a bog on a small engine, it’s near impossible to make it up. I think that run was around 14.70? 
So far I get very little spin on my street tires due to les inertia with the SM flywheel being considerably lighter. So that should help. 
Good news. I spoke to Darryl at HPA today and they have a customer car GTI in the shop right now. Has the exact same mods as I do except no ported head and they are in the process of calibrating the ECU for this combo. They are using my data logging with their data logging to work out a tune. This should be good for all. Also, we spoke of temperature variations and driveline inefficiencies and basically, HPA and I are on the same page as to what to expect in my Arizona weather on the chassis dyno. It’s a lovely 115° / 7% humidity here in Sunny Arizona!


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Still working on this project. Finally made it to GoodSpeed for VAGCOM data logging. Same tune as before but 91 octane pump fuel. Again, western USA has the worst 91 octane in the country. Ambient air temp was a cool 98 degrees. 
I drove the car to the shop and it’s about a 40 minute drive. Parked the CC in the lot with the hood open to let it cool (my appointment was at 2:30; pretty much the hottest part of the day here in Arizona). I’m guessing that by the time I parked, they strapped it down and made first pull it was maybe 1 hour 15-30 minutes? 
Engine was cool and pull is in 4th gear from 20 MPH straight thru to the top of 4th and 150 MPH. Good news / bad news as Jon (part owner in shop). It made 394 HP at the wheels. I said, “don’t tell me the bad news is it’s locked up or something?” "No, no problems like that” he said. Once it built heat, he could see timing dropping like a rock; 7-8-9 degrees at water temps of 220 degrees and power dropped to 280 HP (which sounds about right to me as my first pull last time was 300 HP on 100 octane). After that he wasn’t really comfortable in running it. Also, Snow Performance was disabled. 
Now...keep in mind this is a new hybrid turbo. It takes tuning. FYI - HPA recently tuned a GTI with same mods as mine (except no head porting and larger valves as I have) on British Columbias even crappier 91 octane and it made a reliable 370 WHP. I don’t know if that car was manual trans or DSG. Now I see a glimmer of hope seeing 394 WHP under ideal conditions, i.e., an engine that’s artificially cool. And we’re still in the midst of Arizona Summertime! 
So the Brain Trust at HPA is pondering what’s next. I feel the issue is I have a full-sized Wagner Competition sandwich Intercooler and the stock radiator is not up to ‘snuff. I sent a link to Darryl at HPA tonight on the CSF radiator which of course, is not offered for a CC. But I don’t see that as an obstacle as I’ve had custom built radiators in the past on other cars. 
Keep in mind, we briefly saw 394 WHP and it’s not even fine tuned. I believe that’s pretty close to my prediction of 460 FHP. Looks like it could be 465 FHP (465 - 15% = 395). My prediction that my ported head with +1mm valves would be worth 20-25 HP seems sound. Now HPA has tune files for my car and a GTI in two completely different environments. I think they have a winner here with this new turbo.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

After purchasing a new 3 bar MAP, I was able to install the refined 91 octane tune from HPA. It was much better but there was a few issues. 1) it was a little rough on cold start. 2) Exhaust tone was elevated. 3) Kind of “doggy” from 1800-2800 on lite tip-in throttle. But definitely fast. 
In discussion with Darryl at HPA, it was decided I should have a recirculating catch can. Decided the Integrated Engineering would be best source. Even though it was a 3-week backorder, it arrived in less than a week. I installed it this last Sunday, started it up and to my amazement, it immediately was smoother running and it sounded quieter. Took it for a drive and it was smoother in all RPM’s, even the above mentioned 1800-2800 lite tip-in throttle. Exhaust was definetly quieter. 
So at this point, my gut impression is it needs an aftermarket CAI. I can’t tell you why, it’s just based on my experiences that it seems to be restricted; which wasn’t something I noticed with the K04 (by the way, this new turbo is called the R430 at HPA). So yesterday I ordered the IE CAI which is insulated from the engine, uses the factory air inlet across the top of the radiator area as well as from the lower left gill. I also looked at the latest from APR but I had the Stage II Carbonio which had an inlet smaller than the VW outlet and was very rough at cold start idle. If I didn’t hold the RPM to around 1500 on cold start, it would set the CEL for P050A. When I added the new R430 Turbo, I went back to my VW air inlet and haven’t had a CEL since. I brought this up with IE and they said I would not have that problem and they guaranteed it. So it will arrive Thursday this week and off I go to the drag strip on Saturday night. 
I don’t think I’ve posted pictures since I powder coated the OEM 17” Sport wheels. I used a mixture of Dark Bronze and Gloss Black. 
https://imgur.com/UZAnbaI
https://imgur.com/a/Yko3syS


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Lets try those pictures again....


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Added IE CAI. Made the car better at low speed, light throttle such as driving in the neighborhood of all things. Makes a lot of noise when accelerating, quite enough at causing speeds. 


Took it to the track 2-weekends ago. Weather is more favorable here in the desert. Here’s what I’m learning at the track. 
If I lower the drag radials to around 25#, it will hook and drop the ET. It will go through the finish line around 6600 RPM in 3rd. 
If I have the drag radials at around 28#, it will spin through 1st gear but that will allow me to get into 2nd gear quicker and around 7,000 RPM at the finish line in 3rd. 
Hook and you get around 2.21 60’ time. 
Spin and you get around 2.28-2.35 60’ time.
Hook and you get less MPH at the finish line. Around 100-101 range. 
Spin just right and you can get as high as 104 MPH. 
I’ve tried shifting at 6,000, 6,500, 7,000. It likes 7,000 RPM the best. 
Best last time out (new CAI installed) was a 14.35 @ 100.46 w/ a 2.24 60’ time. Should have been faster MPH considering the ambient temp and density altitude was some 1,000’ lower. The good news is I smoked a Terminator Mustang two passes in a row. 

So...today I called NGK Spark Plugs and ordered two sets of BKR9EIX plugs. They have a 3.0mm projection into the combustion chamber which is .5mm shorter than the stock plug. Also went (2) heat ranges colder. They recommend 1 step colder per 10# of boost over stock. I’m around 15# boost over stock. Also, plug gap will be .024” instead of .032” stock. 
I also ordered a new set of MSD coils (didn’t know they made them). Anybody try them? I have more faith in the spark plugs making improvements than the MSD coils but you never know until you try. After I bought the MSD coils, I found Cosmo Racing in Canada markets their own performance coils. Anybody try them?

After plugs and coils, I will VAGCOM it again on the GoodSpeed dyno as HPA wants to see 2500-7000 RPM pulls in 3rd gear and 4th gears. 

The biggest issue is not so much about power, but gearing. Is there a 15” wheel that will clear the stock CC calipers? If so, I could put a 22” O.D. drag radial on the car vs the 25.7” O.D. I presently run. I believe with that shorter tire, I could get it into 4th gear and really pull hard against the turbo and at least get a bigger MPH. I haven’t made measurements of the wheel clearance but my expectation is no...a 15” wheel will not fit. Anybody help on this issue? 

One of these nights I will go to what they call “Roll Racing” where you start before the start line and get a 40 MPG roll and floor it at the tree. That will get me well into 4th gear and should tell me a lot about gearing issues. 

Once the plugs are installed I will try that before I try the MSD coils.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

New NGK plugs were a definite improvement. MSD coils were not! They are not for a 2015 CC despite "2015 VOLKSWAGEN CC MSD Blaster OEM Replacement Coils 87164” at Summit Racing or 
"BLASTER COIL, 13-18 VW / AUDI 4 CYLINDER, RED, 4-PACK” shown at MSD.
I even called Cosmo Racing in Canada who also ran an ad for their own brand (private brand through MSD?) as their website said their coils would fit 2015 CC. That was wrong also and they have corrected their website. 
The coils being sold are for the later MK7 type engines that use the stud mount which has a female extrusion molded into the side of the coil. No such luck on anybody currently offering a “push” install performance coil. 
I bet if ECS, eurotuning, etc., developed one through MSD or other reliable source, they could sell a few!


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## dwestall (Aug 31, 2019)

WILLCCU said:


> Lets try those pictures again....


Ok, I came here on an "intake" search, but those wheels! Obviously you painted them, they look great. I have the same stock 17's on a Black Oak Brown Metallic 2013 and I've been wanting to paint them but haven't decided black vs some shade of gray.

Are those two-tone? Do you have the gray paint color brand/code? Can you send me a close-up of the wheel? Thanks.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

*Wheels*

They are powder coated Gloss black with Dark Bronze Accent.


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

okada projects has ignition coils. But for the price, gains are marginal, compared to the price of a ECU tune.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Thanks for that heads up on Okada. Had never heard of them. I have engine code CBF and they show VW CC 2012+ and code CDA. Maybe that’s a euro code? Is there a Okada that will work on my 6-speed manual transmission CBF code? 
I can see on most engines a plasma coil like this maybe marginal improvement but I’m running 23-25# boost and I think the benefits maybe greater. I’m willing to spend the $ to find out. Do you have any advise? 

Just ordered ECS Tuning motor / trans / doggone Stage II for the car. I have been running doggone upgrade but I keep ripping out the rubber on the engine side. Hope this doesn’t rattle my teeth out! But a 6-speed in my hands is never a nice thing, especially when launching with slicks.


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

I rather run the irdium BKR7E-IX and replace them more often than the stock double platinums. The smaller diameter tip helps with ignitability and the tapered ground electrode reduces quenching of the flame kernel.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

no experience with Okada coils?
thanks


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

I have sent an inquiry to Okada Projects. I have CBFA engine code and from what I know, that and CCTA are typical TSI gen 2 in North America.


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

WILLCCU said:


> I have sent an inquiry to Okada Projects. I have CBFA engine code and from what I know, that and CCTA are typical TSI gen 2 in North America.


The major differences is the secondary air injection and the 3 oxygen sensors. The coilpacks are the same between the CCTA and CBFA


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

This is what Okada shows they have. CDA is the engine code. 

Volkswagen CC	2012	+ L4 Turbo	1.8L CDA	PD4002106R	$785.00


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

WILLCCU said:


> This is what Okada shows they have. CDA is the engine code.
> 
> Volkswagen CC	2012	+ L4 Turbo	1.8L CDA	PD4002106R	$785.00


Their listing is based on their available engines in the Japanese market. CDA(A) is a 1.8L, Gen2 EA888 (with VTEC). But the coil you want is SD334061R, from the CAW(A/B) which is related to the CCTA/CBFA, but differs in emissions requirements. But they all take the same coil.
https://www.okadaprojects.com/lineup_car.php?select_maker=VOLKSWAGEN

Talk to USP motorsports. They sell them.

https://www.uspmotorsports.com/IP-A121406-2009.html

The larger turbo MK6 people tend to use drop their gap down to .6mm (0.028") and use NGK PFR7B (4853), instead of the stock plugs at .8mm gap (0.032")


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Appreciate your help! I run NGK plugs at -1 step colder with .028” gap. I don’t have the p/n in front of me but that’s what I run. 

I received this reply from Japan today:
"It seems that your engine code is for North America and unreleased in Japan.
According the part number of OEM ignition coil, Plasma Direct #PD4002106R
fits the CBFA engine.
However, we have not tried the product with CBFA or CCTA actually and the
its effectiveness has not measured yet.
The same applies to your modified engine.”

I’ll call USP Motorsport today. I’ll dyno before / after if I get them.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Sure is a piss-poor product review!


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

I’m not spending $700+ on coils that have a sketchy reputation. 

But I did just install Stage II ECS Tuning Motor & transmission mounts. That lasted all of 1 mile! About rattled my teeth out in all gears and RPM range. Took the ECS engine mount off and put a new OEM motor mount on and that took care of 75% of the problem but I still do not like it. Replacing the trans mount tomorrow. 

I will say with the OEM engine (passenger side) replaced and the ECS unit on the transmission (under the battery box), it does seem to control wheel hop better and definitely easier to upshift and downshift to 2nd gear better. Maybe just having new mounts (84,000 on the originals) will help the 2nd gear shifting? I would bet most would live with this arrangement but I use this car with real estate customers on occasion and it’s a little embarrassing to explain why the car rattles and sounds like it does. 

And I’m getting tired of the “is that a diesel?” due to no insulated engine cover. So time to cover up the red coils and oil separator / Return PCV system. 

Summer time here in Arizona. Turbo car does not like 100*+ heat!


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

WILLCCU said:


> I’m not spending $700+ on coils that have a sketchy reputation.
> 
> But I did just install Stage II ECS Tuning Motor & transmission mounts. That lasted all of 1 mile! About rattled my teeth out in all gears and RPM range. Took the ECS engine mount off and put a new OEM motor mount on and that took care of 75% of the problem but I still do not like it. Replacing the trans mount tomorrow.
> 
> ...


I had BSH mounts... definitely vibrated when the AC compressor was on. So, went back to stock mounts and learned to control my right foot better in 1st gear.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Now have OEM mounts all around and it shifts up / down to 2nd gear just fine, Cabin is quite. Chalk this one up to experience!

Had a P0341 code and I have noticed some dogginess in the lower RPM’s. Changed out the CPS and wow; what a difference! I have a P3 gauge and I’m seeing ignition spark advance numbers I’ve never seen. Much smoother, better acceleration, better all around. Simplest part on the entire car to change. 

Can’t wait for late Fall 1/2 mile drags again! Should have my 100 octane tune from HPA.


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## TSI-DRIVER (Jan 18, 2015)

Cts turbo engine mounts are great, I ordered a set on sale and cause I'm cheap and they definitely are a great mod. I'm stage 2 and no bad vibrations. They vibrate more than normal because they're not balanced. My mechanic said he can lift the engine and let it hand freely and then tighten the mounts so there is no tension on the rubber and you won't be able to feel a thing. He claims he had solid mounts with less vibes than my car. I'll update you on what it does 

Sent from my ASUS_X00TDB using Tapatalk


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

That’s interesting...

Thanks.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

WILLCCU said:


> Had a P0341 code and I have noticed some dogginess in the lower RPM’s. Changed out the CPS and wow; what a difference! I have a P3 gauge and I’m seeing ignition spark advance numbers I’ve never seen. Much smoother, better acceleration, better all around. Simplest part on the entire car to change.


OK...So I replaced the CPS and all I have to say is WOW! Finally have the correct ignition timing which I have questioned my tuner on more than once. Watching my P3 gauge, it just always seemed like such a low reading (typically in single digits). Now, normal cursing is 15*+/-, goes as high as 37*. Gas mileage status is up tremendously, smoother, much, much better acceleration. Basically, finally feels like the 400+ HP the parts I have are supposed to provide. However....

It comes and goes. When the power / drivability “goes away” you can watch the ignition timing go back to just above, and even below 0. You can watch, at the same time, the MPG drop from maybe low-mid 30’s to mid 20’s. And of course it’s a dog. Too much noise from the top timing chain cover (when we put the ported head on and all the other stuff, replaced timing chain and guides). I have also had the “warning” engine oil pressure dash light come on a few times with the oil pan full. I immediately shut the engine off and the warning goes away with no issues. My theory is the Camshaft Bracket (or Camshaft Bridge) is defective (there is a round, cupped screen that contains a ball valve below the screen; sometimes the screen gets wiped out), causing the hydraulically activated camshaft positioning to not act properly. That, or and / or, the Intake camshaft Phase adjuster. Appears both items can cause the same problem. These are all hydraulic related issue's. So I am ordering a new pair of cams, phase adjuster, Camshaft bridge & new followers. Will install upon arrival and I’m not going to drive the car until then. 

I did look for any performance cams and can not find that something like this exists. Anybody? Nothing radical, just a warmed over cam(s).

Thanks.


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## suburbandoom (Feb 18, 2015)

The cam bridge and and the valve are both known to fail. As you described, that screen moves, disappears, will then cause a range of issues. I'd say its unlikely that the camshafts need to be replaced, but if you feel the need, it won't hurt of course. I've never searched too hard for a set of hot cams. I would call IE and see if they can set something up. Crower definitely doesn't make any -- I've asked 'em twice!

Have you dropped the oil pan to see what sort of treasure has been collected?


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Don’t see the need to drop the pan. Of course if the bridge or other parts show carnage, then I may consider it. Do not suspect any bearing failures at this point in time. 
I have a friend that owns Redline Racing Cams. He builds the cams for my 1970 AMC Drag car. Spoke to him today, he thinks he may have a pair of cams for me, he’ll check Monday morning.


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## suburbandoom (Feb 18, 2015)

Javelin? Rebel?


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

1970 AMC AMX.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

The cams were for a 1.8, not 2.0. He has a pair for N/A and another pair for turbo. $650 a pair. The guy is really good at what he does!

I don’t want to wait for a custom pair of cams so I just bought straight from VW. All parts are to be in 05/22/2020 and install will be the following day. Can’t wait!


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## suburbandoom (Feb 18, 2015)

Sweet, D Stock! If you strike gold with the set of cams, please share here. I'm sure there may be a few interested parties, myself included.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

I just posted this under the Technical Section for gen I and gen II engine section:
I recently added IE +1 mm intake and exhaust valves along with Integrated Engineering guides, stiffer springs plus performance valve job and pocket porting (inside the bowls). See signature for upgrade list. Ran great but intermittent problem with retarded ignition timing lead to new OEM Cam Position Sensor. That cured the problem...sort of. Occasional P0341 still reared it’s ugly head and ignition timing would still retard excessively. I looked into this and found the issue could be a few items; the cam bridge and internal check valve and / or the intake cam phaser. 
So I bought (all VW OEM) a new bridge and intake cam with phaser attached. While I was putting in a new intake cam, I figured might as well put in a new exhaust cam. 
Mechanic called and told me when he pulled the bridge the screen for the check vale popped out and shout across the shop floor. That was good news to me as I figured that was the issue (and not a rare one at that), but I was still onboard to change out the other parts. All good. 
Mechanic called today and bad news, the front journal for the exhaust cam (cam, head, valve cover) was severely wiped out. All bad.
Now I need a new head. I can probably reuse my old parts and port the new head. But I may consider a new head with all work done including port work; one stop shopping. I’ve searched the net and all I find is IE has a “Sport” head which is basically a upgraded head with +1mm valves, new guides, springs, but no port work. Anybody offer something with port work that is proven? I’ll be making calls Monday morning. 
Thanks

Also, tomorrow I am sending both cams to my cam guy (Spiro Jennings at Redline Racing Cams in San Jose California). He will look at them and see if he can alter the cam timing for more performance. That would be a “regrind” in the industry parlance. He does this to Ferrari and Lamborghini and the results are amazing. These have the pressed on lobes so I don’t have high hopes. 

My theory on the damages is the bridge check valve retainer / screen was not positioned correctly due to wear, age, whatever which caused oil interruption to the cam.


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## dale333 (May 14, 2016)

WILLCCU said:


> I just posted this under the Technical Section for gen I and gen II engine section:


Will,

Saw your post on my thread. I've not been on here in a little while. So, I dropped my oil pan and found a bit of aluminum shards and granules in the pickup tube. I had preemptively replaced my timing chain, tensioner and cam bridge early last year and thinking back, it wasn't much longer after that when the low oil pressure started. I have been scouring the internet for "2.0 tsi low oil pressure" issues and the best I have come up with is, for some reason, after a timing chain/tensioner replacement, the balancing shafts seem to go bad (Something during the replacement, wasn't done exactly correct  ). I have noted that after driving on the freeway for any amount of time, the car is fine, when I get off the freeway and drop my speed down, the "Low oil pressure" light goes off, if I'm able to step on it again and get above 40 mph, the light immediately goes off/away. It's only when the engine has warmed up and been running for a little bit. I have replaced the Oil Pressure Sensor below the oil filter, replaced the Oil Level Sensor in the pan (someone said it could be dual pressure/level) Nothing has resolved the issue. So, I'm getting all the parts to have my balancing shafts replaced.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Here is Cam, Head, Valve Cover:




























Dropping lower pan tomorrow. 

Ordered new head. Will drop the nearly new Ferrea +1mm valves in it with performance valve job. Spoke to HPA and they did not recommend porting the head as it is not a bottleneck until well past 500 HP. I somewhat suspect that the port work I had may have been a problem, could be loss in velocity. HPA had a customer with the exact build as I, but no porting and he was 375’ish WHP. I had one dyno pull and saw something like that but all others (even after that one) were in the low 300’s. Don’t know why the dyno had a different number. Maybe tied to ignition timing being right? Who knows. 

I have the new Intake cam, waiting on the new exhaust cam. Will send both to Redline Racing Cams once exhaust cam arrives. He can look over the cams as I wait on the head to get prepped.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

dale333 said:


> Will,
> 
> Saw your post on my thread. I've not been on here in a little while. So, I dropped my oil pan and found a bit of aluminum shards and granules in the pickup tube. I had preemptively replaced my timing chain, tensioner and cam bridge early last year and thinking back, it wasn't much longer after that when the low oil pressure started. I have been scouring the internet for "2.0 tsi low oil pressure" issues and the best I have come up with is, for some reason, after a timing chain/tensioner replacement, the balancing shafts seem to go bad (Something during the replacement, wasn't done exactly correct  ). I have noted that after driving on the freeway for any amount of time, the car is fine, when I get off the freeway and drop my speed down, the "Low oil pressure" light goes off, if I'm able to step on it again and get above 40 mph, the light immediately goes off/away. It's only when the engine has warmed up and been running for a little bit. I have replaced the Oil Pressure Sensor below the oil filter, replaced the Oil Level Sensor in the pan (someone said it could be dual pressure/level) Nothing has resolved the issue. So, I'm getting all the parts to have my balancing shafts replaced.


I too had the chains / tensioners replaced. The HPA R430 turbo, worked head, APR cylinder head studs, chain, tensioner, were all done at the same time. Less than 10,000 miles. I used to use Motul but at the time of the new parts switched to Amsoil Euro Blend (always 5-40w). 
I am waiting on my 034 rear sway bar. You like yours? Significant difference in handling?
What’s up with the R32 calipers on your CC?


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

No issues after pulling oil pan.


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## VirgoPHD (Dec 12, 2014)

What made you go with HPA intake over IE intake manifold?


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Soon after purchasing the CC I went looking for a tuner. All made promises but none could produce as this was a 6-speed and nobody could make it work (not even APR). Nobody. I came across HPA and they said they could do it. It took longer than expected but they got it done. That led down the path of purchasing their products. I really don’t know if one is better than the other (and I’m sure there are valid arguments on both sides of the fence), but HPA has been a blessing to work with. 
Geez...HPA has that new Arteon engine easily making 500+ HP! I feel so “yesterday”!


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Dropped brand new head and valve cover off with coater. Will coat cam journals with anti-friction coating and external surfaces will be a titanium color. 
Once that is done, both the new head and old head go to my machinist so he can pull the valves and springs from the old head and swap to the new heads.


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## VirgoPHD (Dec 12, 2014)

WILLCCU said:


> Soon after purchasing the CC I went looking for a tuner. All made promises but none could produce as this was a 6-speed and nobody could make it work (not even APR). Nobody. I came across HPA and they said they could do it. It took longer than expected but they got it done. That led down the path of purchasing their products. I really don’t know if one is better than the other (and I’m sure there are valid arguments on both sides of the fence), but HPA has been a blessing to work with.
> Geez...HPA has that new Arteon engine easily making 500+ HP! I feel so “yesterday”!


Lol I know what you mean.
I’m currently in the process of rebuilding my 012 6mt. I was going to go with IE for their extra injector ports on the manifold 


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

By the way, after taking a look at the damaged head and valve cover, I see no reason why you could not have the damaged journal in the head and valve cover welded up then line bored / honed as it is a through hole (the cam journals). Piece of cake in my book. I contemplated this but the reality is I ‘suspect” the port work I had done to the bowls may have adversely affected the velocity so I’m just moving forward with replacement of the head but retaining the +1mm valves and stiffer springs.


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## VirgoPHD (Dec 12, 2014)

I thought HPA used apr? For their tune


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Absolutely not! In fact, HPA has taken APR tuned cars and HPA made them better. Don’t want a fan fight. Each has their merits I’m sure.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

VirgoPHD said:


> Lol I know what you mean.
> I’m currently in the process of rebuilding my 012 6mt. I was going to go with IE for their extra injector ports on the manifold
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The HPA intake manifold will accept individual Snow Injection nozzles. I was advised it is a waste of time. However, After looking at my old head with roughly 10,000 miles on it, the backside of the valves are surprisingly ugly!!!


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

After I believe 10 days or so, powder coater called and just can’t get my head / cams / valve cover done on time as he just expanded his building and equipment. 
So stock aluminum it remains. Dropped off both heads at the machinist today. I was somewhat shocked at the amount of carbon build-up on the backside of the Ferrara valves as they only have about 10,000 miles on them. I told the machinist the car never used oil, or none to speak of, on my 5,000 mile interval oil changes until I did this work. Now it’s a quart every 800-1,000 miles. I asked him to triple check the stem to guide clearances on the old head and new head. It’s either the guides (which were IE all new guides and seals) or the extra boost. I was previously using 5-40 Motul then went to 5-40 Amsoil. Any thoughts on this? I have IE recirculating PCV w/ catch can. I’d almost like to hear the stem to guide clearance on the old head was an issue. 
I may even consider going from a single port injection on the Snow Stage II system to tapping the HPA intake manifold for 4-port injection. Not for any power increase, but to maybe keep the valves cleaner. Will look into that tomorrow.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Found this in the Arteon Forum! APR coming out with hi-perf ignition coils for the CC. 

Read here:

https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthr...Coil-Upgrade-is-Here!-(APR-Red-Ignition-Coils!)


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Interesting....I just found I should chang my nozzle size on my Snow Injection. Once I (hopefully) find the missing HP. Should be a #6 nozzle and I currently have a #2 nozzle.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Ordered 4-port Snow kit to ad onto the HPA Intake Manifold. In stock so will be here soon. 
On old head, Integrated Engineering intake guides were shot. Don’t know why...
New head guide clearance is good out of the box. VW now uses bronze valve guides on the intake guides.


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## VirgoPHD (Dec 12, 2014)

WILLCCU said:


> After I believe 10 days or so, powder coater called and just can’t get my head / cams / valve cover done on time as he just expanded his building and equipment.
> So stock aluminum it remains. Dropped off both heads at the machinist today. I was somewhat shocked at the amount of carbon build-up on the backside of the Ferrara valves as they only have about 10,000 miles on them. I told the machinist the car never used oil, or none to speak of, on my 5,000 mile interval oil changes until I did this work. Now it’s a quart every 800-1,000 miles. I asked him to triple check the stem to guide clearances on the old head and new head. It’s either the guides (which were IE all new guides and seals) or the extra boost. I was previously using 5-40 Motul then went to 5-40 Amsoil. Any thoughts on this? I have IE recirculating PCV w/ catch can. I’d almost like to hear the stem to guide clearance on the old head was an issue.
> I may even consider going from a single port injection on the Snow Stage II system to tapping the HPA intake manifold for 4-port injection. Not for any power increase, but to maybe keep the valves cleaner. Will look into that tomorrow.


I this is what made me go with iE, cause I believe the ports are already there 


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

The HPA Intake Manifold is drilled & tapped by HPA for 4-port injection. 
Waiting on my 4-port kit from Snow Performance to arrive...hopefully today. New head is supposed to be ready by tomorrow?


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## Alngoom (Jul 16, 2020)

Had to sell my ALH. Now i got a 09 2.0 tsi cc, nursing it back to full health.


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## forsann (Jul 16, 2020)

thanks very much


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## VirgoPHD (Dec 12, 2014)

WILLCCU said:


> The HPA Intake Manifold is drilled & tapped by HPA for 4-port injection.
> Waiting on my 4-port kit from Snow Performance to arrive...hopefully today. New head is supposed to be ready by tomorrow?


Does it come pre-drilled I just got the IE intake manifold and thinking about going with a front mount intercooler 


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## VirgoPHD (Dec 12, 2014)

WILLCCU said:


> Just made a few more mods to the 2.0 6-speed Sport. Previous Mods:
> 1) HPA Tune
> 2) HPA Cast Aluminum Intake Manifold
> 3) HPA Downpipe & Midpipe w/ Hi-Flow Catalytic Converter
> ...


What made you not decide to go with a front mount intercooler?


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

HPA suggested it and I really wanted a full-sized intercooler. I looked into the piggy-back intercoolers and found a few complaining they caused a noticeble turbo lag. 

Waiting on my CC to get back. Pulling the new head off. Something is different with the new parts. Have same valve stem installed height on new head as old head. When it’s all bolted down, exhaust valves hang open. No, valves are not sticking in the guides. All 8 are open. Release the tension on the exhaust cam and the valves close. 
These are new OEM VW cams and head purchased direct from VW. Cam on base circle and still opening the valve.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Latest:

New head / cams, etc. installed. Car won’t start. No compression. Performed leak down test. Exhaust vales all leaking because they do not ever close. Backed off cams from timing chain and have plenty of compression and there is no leakage at the head. The problem: Exhaust cam, even on the base circle, keeps the exhaust valves open. Valve stem height is same as old head and old cams. 

Disassembled head from block. Dropped off all old parts and all new parts to machinist today. He will measure everything and come up with the problem and solution.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Exhaust cam on the base circle was holding exhaust valves open .003”-.004”. Cut exhaust valve tips down as needed. Hopefully the CC will be up and running by Monday. 
For those that may be thinking “to much trouble”, I’ve been doing this kind of stuff a long time. Performance parts almost always need something done to them. There’s a lot of “bolt on” parts that don’t bolt on. You have to perceiver and move on if you want something that delivers far more than the OEM parts. 
Can’t wait to take this for a ride! Of course this week we had 117* days. Only supposed to be 114* Monday so it should really fly...


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Finally! Got the CC back a few days ago. 

Phoenix Arizona is on a record run of consecutive 110° or higher days. I think 38? 
So that means less than optimal boost and HP. I woke up early yesterday to drive it at 6:00 A.M. just to see what boost would go to. It was already 92° out! Made it to 20.2#. In the daytime, I’m seeing 18.5# boost +/- and daytime temps are around 115°. In the cooler months, I was in the 24-25 range. Don’t forget, we only get 91 octane here and it’s not even the good 91 octane. 

So...with that in place...I can’t believe how well it now runs! 

Problems solved:

1) FOREVER problem with cold start and RPM would rise and fall (sometimes stall) during the EPA mandated cold start cycle. This is what I went through if I kept my foot off the accelerator for about 45 seconds, followed by a CEL. I would just hold RPM at around 1200-1500 for 45 seconds and then no problem. 
Now: RPM barely fluctuates with foot off accelerator during cold start. I would say your average person would not feel any difference in RPM. Maybe +/- 10 RPM a few times? 

2) FOREVER problem with tappet noise. I have been told by all “DI engines are loud under the hood” and accepted that (but did not like it). 
Now: Pretty darn quite! 

3) Recent: Oil Pressure low, a few times set off dash warning. 
Now: No issue. Don’t forget, dropped the lower oil pan and cut open the filter. Found no problems. 

4) Recent: Defective Pressure regulator check ball in the Cam Bridge affecting oil supply to camshafts. I just googled this and found something I did not find earlier. 
_"The design flaw we are referring to in this post is a poorly mounted protective metal screen which protects the pressure regulation check ball. This screen is supposed to be rolled/peened over the plastic lip surrounding the cavity, but most times is found to be loose or missing (VW's method of assembly is evidently flawed).
What generally happens as a result of the screen detaching is rather catastrophic.
First, the screen detaches, and next ping pongs around on the camshaft(s). If the screen disrupts the camshaft rotation, that restriction causes an immediate domino effect which seizes rotation and bends intake/exhaust valves which very quickly causes internal engine chaos resulting in damage or destruction at the cylinder head". _
See full story here: 
https://www.auto-bon.com/blog/20t-audivw-early-warning I highly recommend reading this! :banghead:

5) Last 10,000 miles: I removed the cylinder head, had it ported and 1+mm Ferrea valves, stiffer springs and titanium retainers, new IE sourced valve guides and seals (their best offerings). During the course of the 10,000 miles after parts installed (which included the new HPA R430 turbo), I went from adding no oil in 5,000 mile oil change intervals to a quart every 800 +/- miles. Added a IE recirculating PCV with catch can to no avail. 
When the old head was brought in to exchange the +1mm valves to the new heads, it was found the valve guide clearance was extremely loose. That will cause major oil consumption, especially under boost. The new VW head I bought came with bronze intake guides (the old head did not ave bronze guides from the factory so this is a design change from the OEM). The clearances on the new head’s valve guides were perfect. Head was set up and ready to install. But as I mentioned, when the engine was cranked over, no compression. Leak-down test found all exhaust valves leaking to the exhaust. Released cam tension at timing chain and leak-down test found cylinders in great condition. Pulled had back off and found new cams were same as old cams but installed height on exhaust valves were several thousands to high. Corrected problem, head went back on engine. 

6) I was very surprised at the amount of carbon build up on the back of the valves in 10,000 miles. Well, not really surprised considering the valve guide clearance issues. Nonetheless, I changed from a single TB inlet on my Snow Injection to a 4-port injection installed on the HPA intake manifold. I will let HPA know that they need to move the threaded bosses back maybe 1/8” and it will make for a much less aggravating install as the fittings are much to close to the fuel rail and required re-shaping the 90° fittings (radius the corners) for added clearance. Not a big deal. My idea here is maybe some more HP but primarily to really keep the valves cleaner. Again, may not be an issue if valve guides stay in spec. And maybe....the valve guides had a problem due to the cam bridge. 

7) As a bonus, I added the 034 Motorspots 24mm rear sway bar. THIS SHOULD BE A FACTORY PART!!! I can not believe how much better it corners. When I picked up the car, which is in a rural area, there is a series of three S-curves posted 25 MPH. I went thru at 70-80, turned around and did it again! 
CC rides smooth with this sway bar, adjustable Koni’s, and 40 PSI in my 245 45 17 Michelin Pilot Super Sports. 

I can’t wait for cooler weather but as it is now with around 18.5# boost, it moves along quickly. No problem 7,000 RPM shifts. Smoother than ever, even at low speeds. In fact I can ride in my neighborhood no problem at 20 MPH in 3rd gear. Couldn’t do that before. Took it out in the morning on a freeway, got to 20.2# and I think somebody didn’t like my speed because when I got off the freeway and went the opposite direction, I saw a Trooper heading my old direction at a really high rate of speed. Could have been a coincidence but we’ll count our lucky stars. Notice I didn’t say my speed (who knows who’s watching here) but the bottom of 4th is outrageous. I will say that when I raced the 1/2 mile drags in March, I was 6,000 RPM in 4th for 123 MPH and like I said, I was at the bottom of 4th. 
For some odd reason, this morning a Hellcat Charger decided to pick on me from a light. Twice. First time I was caught off guard. Second time I put a fender on him from 1st to 2nd and he finally decided 60% throttle wasn’t enough and dropped down a gear as he went to 100% throttle. No, I have no illusions for taking on Hellcats but it was fun that he had to get a little more serious! 
Gas mileage seems to be really good despite my occasional bursts. It’s just smoother, quieter and faster. This is an excellent touring car. Wish I had an Autobahn to hit. 

At this point, once it cools off (October, if I’m lucky September), I’ll dyno and data log it and see if HPA has anymore to give me with the 91 octane tune. Then I’ll do the same for 100 octane. I HOPE the 1/2 mile drags is going to happen in November!!! 
I hope ya’ll have found this fun and interesting. Hopefully somebody will learn from this. One member here has asked that I video the car in action. Not sure what I should video? View of the gauges while accelerating? I’m turning 60 in a few weeks, not really a youtube generation guy!


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Interesting on cam bridge problems. The low pressure was exactly what happened to my CC:

Source: 
http://karmakanix.com/knowledgebase...-audi-vw/2-0t-timing-chain-tensioner-failure/
Failed Screen Inside the Cam Bridge
Cam Bridge Screen Failure VW Audi 2.0T Engine

"_The cam bridge is the aluminum housing between the two camshafts that controls the oil pressure and flow to the cam gears, which control the rotational adjustment of the angle of the camshaft versus the crankshaft. Inside the cam bridge is an oil gallery with a screen on top of a non-return valve, which is a check ball. A common failure mode is that the screen breaks loose and either props the check ball open, clogs up the oil flow to the camshaft gear, or actually gets inside the gear. In all cases, the cam timing is affected, and the same cam allocation code can occur (P0016 for Crank / Camshaft position sensor correlation). Additionally, there is some chance that bits of the damaged screen can prop the non-return valve open, which can potentially cause low oil pressure when the engine rpms drop as it returns to an idle and a corresponding low oil pressure warning light. A Technical Service Bulletin was issued that describes the basics of this screen problem and its repair. Simply, the bridge and possibly the cam gear must be disassembled, and the screen and any debris must be removed. The screen is not necessary, and is not to be replaced. The dealer most likely will not disassemble the cam bridge to remove the screen during a tensioner / chain job_".


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## VirgoPHD (Dec 12, 2014)

WILLCCU said:


> Exhaust cam on the base circle was holding exhaust valves open .003”-.004”. Cut exhaust valve tips down as needed. Hopefully the CC will be up and running by Monday.
> For those that may be thinking “to much trouble”, I’ve been doing this kind of stuff a long time. Performance parts almost always need something done to them. There’s a lot of “bolt on” parts that don’t bolt on. You have to perceiver and move on if you want something that delivers far more than the OEM parts.
> Can’t wait to take this for a ride! Of course this week we had 117* days. Only supposed to be 114* Monday so it should really fly...


What cams did you go with?


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## VirgoPHD (Dec 12, 2014)

WILLCCU said:


> Interesting on cam bridge problems. The low pressure was exactly what happened to my CC:
> 
> Source:
> http://karmakanix.com/knowledgebase...-audi-vw/2-0t-timing-chain-tensioner-failure/
> ...


Bro, you have kept me inspired.

Great write up!!!!!


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

I replaced the original cams with a pair of new VW (factory) cams. I could not find anything in the aftermarket. 

Soon to replace the poly Snow Performance 2.5 gallon water / meth tank with a custom built aluminum tank. The w/m has not been working since I got the car back. Turns out the poly line from the tank was crimped. Presently have the poly tank mounted on the passenger side in the trunk in that stow-away area. The problem is, the poly tank is to fat and I’ve kinda had it wedged in there this whole time. Not a pretty sight! My race car is in the chassis shop and he can whip together a tank that will fit and be secured by the VW plastic wall that separates the stow-away from the trunk. The pump is below the stow-away compartment.


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## VirgoPHD (Dec 12, 2014)

WILLCCU said:


> I replaced the original cams with a pair of new VW (factory) cams. I could not find anything in the aftermarket.
> 
> Soon to replace the poly Snow Performance 2.5 gallon water / meth tank with a custom built aluminum tank. The w/m has not been working since I got the car back. Turns out the poly line from the tank was crimped. Presently have the poly tank mounted on the passenger side in the trunk in that stow-away area. The problem is, the poly tank is to fat and I’ve kinda had it wedged in there this whole time. Not a pretty sight! My race car is in the chassis shop and he can whip together a tank that will fit and be secured by the VW plastic wall that separates the stow-away from the trunk. The pump is below the stow-away compartment.


The head on the EA888 gen1/2 stock is crazy, I read somewhere that it’s good for 700hp

But you are right it’s damn near mission impossible to find performance cams


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Updates! May have seen https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?9438605-Motul-or-LiquiMoly but if you didn’t, basically changed out the Cam Position Sensor which was OEM product and maybe six months old (if that). Ran smoother, no P00341 code that was only occasional. Then I changed the oil prior to racing “No Fly Zone” 1/2 mile race in Gila Bend, Arizona. Went with Motul 300V 5-40w. Then it ran amazingly smooth. Can’t say faster, just quieter and smoother. And I had Amsoil in it before. But it is expensive at $45 for a 2liter can so I don’t expect that will be to many people's liking. 
Off to the races and Density Altitude was around 2,900’, Ambient temps hovered around 88° in the afternoon. 
I wasted the first and second runs in the cooler morning air by getting overly aggressive on the W/M start and full flow positions. It would bog the engine on shifts. 
Third pass I finally got smart and delayed the start and full flow and had a 122.55 MPH and saw 20.4# peak boost followed by next pass that went 121 MPH and peak boost was 19.4#. My son drove it a few passes and he was around 119 MPH each pass. 
Yes, disappointed after replacing the entire top end of the engine since last 1/2 mile race in March 2020 and actually lost 1 MPH and weather was similar. So I guess the engine damages were after March race. 
I met the CEO of Dyno-Comp from Scottsdale, AZ out there. I asked about data log on his dyno and he told me he could even tune the ECU; which really surprised me. He said call me Monday, which I did. I had the CC to him today (Wednesday). 
Dyno was 325 WHP and ambient temps were probably in the 60’s. Most prior Dyno runs were at GoodSpeed in Scottsdale and they were on or about 100° days. So 325 sounds about right. They picked up around 20 WHP and 30# torque right away. Then the kicker...pretty much maxed out due to poor exhaust flow. Problem is not the R430 turbo but either the cat or muffler. So he looked into it some more and the Billy Boat exhaust had a chambered muffler, not the perforated cone style muffler BB sometimes uses. I also have HPA 3” DP and mid-pipe, HPA HI-Flo Cat and “a few more bends than he would like to see in the system”. So tomorrow they will be putting a test pipe in with v-bands and making further evaluations on the tune. He is sure this will allow further tuning enhancements. Now on noise, I know no-cat will be louder; he says 10-15% but I do NOT want it any louder and I somewhat insisted on this. So he will put a larger resonator in. I had previously discussed this with BB but they had just moved from Phoenix, AZ to Tennessee and were setting up shop, etc., and said it would be 6-months or more. 
Also, W/M is off for all dyno pulls. Whith the single port injection I previously ran, it was worth a solid 20 WHP across the board. Don’t know yet what the 4-port w/m is worth.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Stopped by shop today. They are putting a 3” inlet / outlet 18” long straight tru muffler in lieu of the resonator. It will be no cat followed by two mufflers. They think they can provide a hand held tuner for 91 emissions tune, 91 no cat, 100 octane no cat. That would be phenomenal! 
Hopefully all will be done tomorrow. Find that hard to believe but let’s see


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Picked up the CC from Dyno-Comp today. Trying to upload the dyno charts but can’t. I scan the charts in both PDF and JPEG but only photo’s seem to be accepted on image host sites? 
Car runs FANTASTIC! I’m talking about idle to redline and nice street driving in between. Very smooth. And I had that extra muffler position wrong, it is a Magnaflow positioned where the cat once was, then the BB resonator, then the BB muffler. It’s quite and you can here CAI and turbo better than before. 
It has the 91 octane tune in it right now. The shop will get me a hand-held programer in the next few days. It will have (3) tunes installed to my VIN. 91 cat, 91 no cat, 100 no cat. 
When I dropped off the car and they made their first dyno pulls and tune with the cat still in place, it was ambient temperatures in the mid-50’s. By the time the finished with the exhaust work and final tunes, it was mid-to-high 90’s. So big swing there. Snow Water / Meth not used. All are at wheels. 

As delivered: Peak HP / Torque was 320.3 / 292.1. HP Drops off quickly at around 6,200 RPM. 
Removed cat and tune on 91 octane: 341.4 / 303.7 HP approaches peak around 6,200 RPM and stays pretty flat to around 7,000 RPM, drops off a little then rev limiter is 7,200 RPM. 
100 octane tune: 358.9 / 313.2 HP approaches peak around 6,200 RPM and stays pretty flat to around 7,200 RPM then rev limiter is 7,200 RPM. 
There’s about a 70 HP difference between 91 catted and 100 non-cat at 7,000 RPM. At the 1/4 mile drags, I would cross the finish line @ 7,000 in 3rd. 

Spoke to Alan @ HPA. I had a dyno run from a similar engine in a DSG GTI that peaked @ 363.9 HP & 353.6 TQ. I THOUGHT that was WHP but turns out HPA only uses an engine dyno; engine is pulled from car. Dyno-Comp says 20% conversion from WHP to CHP so on 100 0ctane that should be 430.68 CHP, 91 octane would be 409.68 CHP. If conversion factor is correct, and of course all dyne’s are different, my numbers are pretty stout. 
Of course, all I here about is how much better the Gen III is over my Gen II....but I’m done! 

On a back road, looks like 1/4 mile MPH is up maybe 2 MPH. Local drag strip is closed to COVID. 1/2 mile race is December 12-13 so weather should be cool and favorable. Back road seems to indicate +2 MPH, maybe 125?


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Loaded up 100 octane fuel and tune yesterday. Nice cool weather also, highs in mid 70’s. The difference between 91 tune and 100 tune, especially from 6,000 RPM to 7,000 RPM is unreal. You can feel a sudden surge at 6,000. It feels like I just added another cylinder. It doesn’t let up at all and I shift at 7,000. It pulls hard to shift point. Even took former machine shop owner, race engine builder friend and he couldn’t believe the difference from last time I took him for a ride. 
With added Magnaflow muffler it’s reasonably quiet from idle to redline. 
Drag strip is open tomorrow night. It’s a private event so that’s how they get around COVID issues. Should be low 70’s when track opens @ 5:00 PM. Probably 60’s as night goes on? Traction will probably suck but I’m most interested in MPH change. If I could just hit 4th, it will be better than PB of 104.03. Car is geared all wrong for drag racing but that’s what I’m stuck with. Wonder if my son has a go-pro suction cup and I could put his Go-Pro on my helmet?


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Taking a picture was easier than uploading a PDF or JPEG. W/M Injection OFF 


HP / TQ As delivered w/ 91 octane w/ hi-flow cat, 91 octane no-cat tune from Dyno-Comp, 100 octane no-cat tune from Dyno-Comp









Manifold Pressure and AFR. Looks like only two charts.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Disappointment at drag races! First pass w/ passenger 14.9x @ 100 MPH. Second pass w/ passenger 15.1x @ 95 MPH. Both passes similar. Launch car, hit 2nd gear, feels like it’s laying over and practically bogs. Engine recovers slowly, repeat for 2-3 shift. 
3rd pass I inflated drag radials from 25# PSI to 35 PSI, turned Snow Injection off. No passenger. 14.8x @ 102 MPH. Ran better but not right. Recovered on shifts better. Last run peak boost was only 17.7#. But as soon as I left the track on to the interstate, 23.5# came quickly and held boost over 21# for a good amount of time. 
Dang! There was a 2018(?) Golf R in attendance. Big turbo, aftermarket rods and pistons, 35# boost. First time down the track with the new engine. 10.90 @ 125 MPH! 
My experience with racing is if you make HP improvements and it still doesn’t effect the MPH one way or the other, it’s usually 1) incorrect heat range of spark plugs, 2) weak valve springs, 3) poor fuel delivery. That’s if there is not something drastically wrong mechanically. So....on a hope and a prayer, I replaced the low pressure fuel pump as it’s original and fast approaching 89,000 miles on the car. Fuel filter is part of the assembly. $385 in total with o-ring and extended pick up. I was secretly hoping to find a seriously compromised filter. It seemed ok to me. However, and maybe wishful thinking, but in the lower RPM’s, just regular street driving like a normal person would, it felt better. I don’t know, almost doesn’t make sense but it was cool nighttime air so I’ll see how it feels in the afternoon tomorrow. 
I also talked to the tuner. He suggested the Snow 4-port nozzles maybe to big and to activate later. Presently it’s 9# start, 15# full. Does well on the street like that. I theorize on the track, which is a higher load on the engine than dyno or street, boost is triggering the w/m at 9# and it’s not progressively building boost then I’m shifting and in effect flooding the engine. 
Also discussed the IAT and the effect of making a pass, sitting in staging lanes and heat soaking the IAT and then making another run and never getting enough airflow over the intercooler and IAT sensor and the ECU pulling out timing and limiting boost at the same time. So today I drove around with the IAT display on the P3 gauge. It was 88° ambient most of the day. Freeway saw 115° +/-. In town stop light would be around 139°, stop the car get back in within 10-15 minutes and start car to 152° IAT. Stop for lunch and get back in for 180°. High IAT obviously cool down once moving but it’s not instant drop in temp. Tuner suggested wit raise the bar for IAT trigger to reduce timing while using race (100 octane) gas. 
I question the 4-port vs the 1-port in the throttle body inlet with w/m? When I had the 1-port, I would see IAT drop almost instantly 20°. With 4-port (nozzles are at base on intake manifold runners), there is no IAT temp drop. Sucks to change nozzles, have to remove intake manifold. 
Enough babe. Would love to hear other ideas!


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## kosmaras (Feb 27, 2016)

WILLCCU said:


> Disappointment at drag races! First pass w/ passenger 14.9x @ 100 MPH. Second pass w/ passenger 15.1x @ 95 MPH. Both passes similar. Launch car, hit 2nd gear, feels like it’s laying over and practically bogs. Engine recovers slowly, repeat for 2-3 shift.
> 3rd pass I inflated drag radials from 25# PSI to 35 PSI, turned Snow Injection off. No passenger. 14.8x @ 102 MPH. Ran better but not right. Recovered on shifts better. Last run peak boost was only 17.7#. But as soon as I left the track on to the interstate, 23.5# came quickly and held boost over 21# for a good amount of time.
> Dang! There was a 2018(?) Golf R in attendance. Big turbo, aftermarket rods and pistons, 35# boost. First time down the track with the new engine. 10.90 @ 125 MPH!
> My experience with racing is if you make HP improvements and it still doesn’t effect the MPH one way or the other, it’s usually 1) incorrect heat range of spark plugs, 2) weak valve springs, 3) poor fuel delivery. That’s if there is not something drastically wrong mechanically. So....on a hope and a prayer, I replaced the low pressure fuel pump as it’s original and fast approaching 89,000 miles on the car. Fuel filter is part of the assembly. $385 in total with o-ring and extended pick up. I was secretly hoping to find a seriously compromised filter. It seemed ok to me. However, and maybe wishful thinking, but in the lower RPM’s, just regular street driving like a normal person would, it felt better. I don’t know, almost doesn’t make sense but it was cool nighttime air so I’ll see how it feels in the afternoon tomorrow.
> ...


Man, you've really been struggling with the car running as you are hoping it should! I applaud your resilience, not many folks would continue down the journey you've been on...I'm sure your latest results are discouraging. I was hopeful the new tuner was going to get the results you were looking for. I wanted to make a few comments:

Regarding your dyno graphs - Looks as though they REALLY ramp in the boost late, you are not hitting peak boost in the second graph until 5,500 rpm. This is a K04 frame turbo if I'm not mistaken, but their boost ramp makes it seem like a large turbo. I'm not saying this is your issue, but I find that really odd. I understand ramping the boost slowly up to 4,000 like APR does (for traction and reducing surge) on their 3.1 file, but I think this slow ramp is excessive. As far as the times you're getting at the track, a 350whp car should trap over 102 mph. This I find very odd. Do you have any video of the cluster while you make your 1/4 mile passes? I'd like to see how the car performs during your run. Are you also logging the car on the 1/4 mile passes? It would be interesting to see how the car behaves because the dyno vs. the real world are quite different. 

IAT's are significantly high where you live, can you remind me what IC you have on the car? Even with high IAT's, your car may be pulling timing, but not to the extent where your car performs like a stage 2 car. That would be a reduction of 100whp.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

IC is Wagner (full size) Competition model. 
Laptops are not my friend! But I would agree, need data on track and see how that compares to dyno and even street. I do have vagcom but I struggle with finding the right keystrokes before a run and dealing with staging the car; if only it were an apple app! Probably need a vagcom expert to ride along with me. Unfortunately, track is COVID closed for drag strip and who knows when it will return. 
Hope and a prayer are LPFP may have been worn out at 89,000 miles (if not sooner). It really felt stronger on low end last night but need to see what it’s like in the heat of the day. 
Thanks for your input!

Yes, I did have my daughter video the gage cluster on the first pass but it’s pretty shaky, starting with the 1-2 shift.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Curb weight per Car & Driver test on 2015 CC w/ 6MT is 3,354 + 160 my weight = 3,514 +/- w/ about 5/8 tank of gas. Using online race calculator shows 115 MPH. I used 430 CHP on calculator (359 + 20%)
And if it were closer to being a “real” race car (never happen), with drag race suspension and clutch, that would equate to 11.80’s in ET. Again, never happen, I would be elated for a mid-13 ET but for what it is, I would at least want the correct MPH. From there I could work on a ET reduction.
I have race scales. I’ll get an official weight tomorrow.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Wow...pretty close guess on weight. Just weighed the CC with me in it and just a hair over 1/2 tank of gas @ 3,534#. 
That’s 57.52% front weight, 42.47% rear weight. 
There has been nothing done to the car to make it lighter, still retains OEM 17” wheels. 
Changing the LPFP has made it drive around town better. That’s just driving it like most everybody else would. Still has 100 tune in it.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

kosmaras said:


> Man, you've really been struggling with the car running as you are hoping it should! I applaud your resilience, not many folks would continue down the journey you've been on...I'm sure your latest results are discouraging. I was hopeful the new tuner was going to get the results you were looking for. I wanted to make a few comments:
> 
> Regarding your dyno graphs - Looks as though they REALLY ramp in the boost late, you are not hitting peak boost in the second graph until 5,500 rpm. This is a K04 frame turbo if I'm not mistaken, but their boost ramp makes it seem like a large turbo. I'm not saying this is your issue, but I find that really odd. I understand ramping the boost slowly up to 4,000 like APR does (for traction and reducing surge) on their 3.1 file, but I think this slow ramp is excessive. As far as the times you're getting at the track, a 350whp car should trap over 102 mph. This I find very odd. Do you have any video of the cluster while you make your 1/4 mile passes? I'd like to see how the car performs during your run. Are you also logging the car on the 1/4 mile passes? It would be interesting to see how the car behaves because the dyno vs. the real world are quite different.
> 
> IAT's are significantly high where you live, can you remind me what IC you have on the car? Even with high IAT's, your car may be pulling timing, but not to the extent where your car performs like a stage 2 car. That would be a reduction of 100whp.


Yes...the R430 Turbo is using the K04 housing. I do recall when I was running the K04 it did have more bottom end and the boost came on at 4,000 RPM. It would fry tires in 1st and 2nd gear. But I do like the added power of the R430 and having a manual transmission allows me (probably?) better selection of what to upshift at and what gear to downshift to. If I’m doing 75 on the freeway and really want to get on it, there’s nothing wrong with a WOT downshift to 3rd and shift to 4th at 7,000. Don’t know if a DSG would allow such things. 
I will discuss the slow ramp you mentioned with the tuner. Maybe it’s an element that is the result of the R430 turbo? I don’t know. 
I would like some insight on IAT’s. I have a friend with a 2018 SC Mustang GT and he told me about removing the cowl seal to allow more under hood flow thru and the Mustangs will see 5 degrees cooler IAT. He just bought a GT500 hood and that’s supposed to allow about 10 degrees cooler. I’m not sure if that’s 15° cooler in total. But my question is, what can be done to have the IAT on the CC run cooler? It would still be relative to ambient air. I might try removing the cowl seal and see what happens, see if there is a detriment (like excessive engine noise in the cabin). 
Back in the olden days, we would remove the cowl seal and / or raise the back of the hood maybe 1”. 
NHRA does not allow either of those tricks anymore. But they do help if employed.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

I’m using NGK Iridium BKR9EIX which is two-steps colder then OEM heat range @ .032” gap. Anybody have a better plug idea? What about gap? Seems it should be tighter than .032” / 8mm? 
Hopefully will re-wire the Cam Position Sensor harness Monday. This car still likes to set off P0341 code and I’ve had two new CPS in during the last 6 months. Seems to set off CPS issue when driving slow in 1st, like bumper-to-bumper slow drive, on-off clutch and gas, 1,000+/- RPM. Sometimes in 2nd gear low speed (like in a neighborhood drive) it will set it off. Always low RPM, slight load. 
Replacing plugs tomorrow. If no responses, I’ll just try .028”


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## xatajam823 (Nov 28, 2020)

Lets try those pictures again....


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Replaced NGK Iridium BKR9EIX with same but gap reduced from .032” to .026” which is what NGK suggested. Much better bottom end, very smooth. Car is at tuner again; running for w/m activation points and tuning for better performance with w/m activated.


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## CustomBuilder (Mar 7, 2017)

WILLCCU said:


> New NGK plugs were a definite improvement. MSD coils were not! They are not for a 2015 CC despite "2015 VOLKSWAGEN CC MSD Blaster OEM Replacement Coils 87164” at Summit Racing or
> "BLASTER COIL, 13-18 VW / AUDI 4 CYLINDER, RED, 4-PACK” shown at MSD.
> I even called Cosmo Racing in Canada who also ran an ad for their own brand (private brand through MSD?) as their website said their coils would fit 2015 CC. That was wrong also and they have corrected their website.
> The coils being sold are for the later MK7 type engines that use the stud mount which has a female extrusion molded into the side of the coil. No such luck on anybody currently offering a “push” install performance coil.
> I bet if ECS, eurotuning, etc., developed one through MSD or other reliable source, they could sell a few!



*RED TOPS are what's needed . . some over in Classified's *


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

I have red top Audi coils. The post you are referring to was for an aftermarket performance coil out of Japan. The product does not fit 2015 CC. The performance coils offered by MSD are for the 
Gen III 2.0 TSI.


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## CustomBuilder (Mar 7, 2017)

NGK makes a Race Plug & They also have one Now that Uses a Harder Metal with Special Tip ..

Also have You every Tried to Index Your Plugs . . . ( Indexing of Spark Plug ) just some Basic's many Miss this It's Little Things like Removing the Engine Bay
Seal . .
Getting the Most Out Of Your Ignition: Spark Plug Indexing 101


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## CustomBuilder (Mar 7, 2017)

Like These - Personally I have always Run - Denso's 

Here ya Go ~ Ruthenium HX™ Spark Plugs | NGK Spark Plugs


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## CustomBuilder (Mar 7, 2017)

Here's some of My Work : Media added by CustomBuilder


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Just bought Brisk Silver Racing plugs. Will install at .022” gap (these are side gapped) while at 1/2 mile races this Saturday. . I am familiar with indexing but with a plug central between the (4) valves, do not see the logic in that. Do you have an idea on that that I am not seeing? 

Picked up car from tuner today. The 4-port Snow Injection is a waste...lost 11 HP after trying to tune with #2 nozzles. Too much fuel. Can’t lean the injectors out enough to compensate. 330 WHP with w/m injection, 341 WHP with no w/m injection (this is with 91 octane). 358.9 on 100 octane and no w/m injection. Going back to the single port injection I ran previously. That was worth +20 WHP on numerous dyno pulls on two different dyne’s (and it was always hot ambient air). 
Weather forecast is high of 66° Saturday.


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## CustomBuilder (Mar 7, 2017)

Just Imagine a Hot Plasma Liquid Flowing Inward & Outward of those 4 Valves ~

Now it Up to You to Direct that Flow at Micro seconds & Point it in Right Direction . . as it goes from Fast to Faster to Supersonic 
As all those Pulses Move down Stream they effect Each other . .


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## CustomBuilder (Mar 7, 2017)

There is an Echo Effect also , but Only Real Life Testing : Gives Max Ideal Position . .
Hence It Either Forward which Means for .0001 Micro sec Pushes More on Top of Piston . .Tq. Earlier

Or Toward Turbo Exit - uses the Fuel Plasma Wave to Boost Turbo Eff% Quicker & Pull the Next Intake Pulse into Chamber ~ Faster

Plus Smoother an Engine the Better HP it makes - _*Eliminating Smallest of Vibrations in Cly head would do what ?

Also Speaking of Smoother ~ Fluidampr Engine Damper - 2.0TSI - 551231 - 5983*_


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## CustomBuilder (Mar 7, 2017)

Anyhow just so You Know where I'm coming from I Cut My Teeth on Fuel Mix & Spark & Porting some 50 Years ago ~
*It's Me* ~


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

CustomBuilder said:


> There is an Echo Effect also , but Only Real Life Testing : Gives Max Ideal Position . .
> Hence It Either Forward which Means for .0001 Micro sec Pushes More on Top of Piston . .Tq. Earlier
> 
> Or Toward Turbo Exit - uses the Fuel Plasma Wave to Boost Turbo Eff% Quicker & Pull the Next Intake Pulse into Chamber ~ Faster
> ...


I have the Fluid Dampner.


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## CustomBuilder (Mar 7, 2017)

Excellent I Noted a Big Difference on My Built 5.0 Roller Cam


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

12/11/2020 - Day did not go as planned. I had about 5/8 of a tank of 91 octane I had to burn up so I could get 100 octane in along with my 100 octane tune. Had a morning appointment and 2-hours to kill before I was to meet the tuner and he would exchange the 91 tune for the 100 tune (hand held programer is still not available because they need a stock BIN file and HPA is not willing to give up my stock BIN file; not happy!). So I decided to take a drive up north on I-17 and I calculated that would be about the right distance. Just as I passed the last town with no off ramps for about 20 miles all traffic was stopped for a rollover accident. Pretty much took 45-minutes to get around it and head back to the tuner. Arrived at 12:30 as scheduled. The tune man was not in. Waited 1 hour. He never showed and I had lots of other stuff to do. So now I have 100 octane in the tank and a 91 tune 
Headed to the race Saturday morning. High temp was to supposed be 66° on a clear day. Previous best was 123 MPH but I only have one pass at that speed. I had my Michelin Super Sport 3 seasons on all four corners and 50# tire inflation. Yes, even the fronts. Here’s how it went.

Omega Motorsports No Fly Zone 1/2 mile drags 12/12/2020 results:
1) 123.83 no w/m injection / Peak boost: 20.6#. Ambient air was 66°
2) 120.77 no w/m injection / Peak boost: 20.2#. I tried short shifting all shifts to try a longer run in 4th gear. Pulled the engine down low on all shifts. Bad idea. 
3) 123.55 with w/m injection / Peak boost: 20.4#. W/M was 1-port with a #3 nozzle. 
4) 123.08 with w/m injection / Peak boost: 20.4# W/M was 4-port w/ #2 nozzles. Ambient air was 69°
5) 122.28 with w/m injection / Peak boost: 20.2# W/M was back to 1-port but bogged off the line. My son was driving this pass. 
6) 120.70. My son was driving. He missed 3rd gear... 
5) 124.38! Back to me driving  NOTE: Before the run I changed out the NGK Iridium 9 heat range plugs gapped at .026” to Brisk Racing Silver 10 heat range (equivalent to NGK 9) gapped @ .022”. W/M was on at 1-port. Spun the tires all through 1st gear. Peak boost: 20.1#. Ambient air was 70°. 
6) 122.08 with 1-port w/m injection / Peak boost: ? Bogged off line. 72° ambient temp. 

Tuner shop owner says “he will make it up for me” and I believe he will. The guy with the laptop was sick and did not come in that day. Poop happens and that’s the way it is. He said expect 3-4 MPH with 100 tune. And I think I would have gone faster with 91 octane in the tank since I had a 91 tune. Shop said they doubted the w/m would help having 100 in the tank. Pass #1 was coolest ambient temperature of the day with no w/m. So somehow have to factor ambient temp plus the car sat around 2-hours before 1st pass. 
Can’t make solid conclusions having wrong fuel and tune. Next time will be correct tune and 100 fuel. Probably March 2021. 
Pass #5 @ 124.38 was no doubt plugs helping but maybe a little was due to getting wheel speed up on launch. I was really happy about the Brisk plugs! 
4-port is too much fuel and can’t lean the fuel injectors out enough to compensate. Tuner says my 1-port would be better off with a #2 nozzle and only use the w/m on 91 octane. 

There was a 2019 Arteon with nothing more than a APR Stage 1 tune and a CAI.Not even a downpipe or cat-back exhaust. 
He only went 140 MPH. That 2.0 TSI Gen III is a beast compared to the prior generations. Wonder how hard that would be to transplant into my 2015? Pure talk as that’s not going to happen. 
Considering I saw more than one Hellcat in the mid-to-high 140’s, that’s damn impressive. I have a buddy with a bone stock 2016 Hellcat Challenger that went 156 MPH. Another buddy came with his 2020 GT500 and it also went 156 MPH. I never saw it run but I heard a Porsche went 200 MPH. 
My daughters managed to improve the last race 112.75 best to 114.08 MPH. The kids all had a good time and the girls even got rides in a pair of Hellcat Challengers going 154 MPH. 
Fun day!


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## CustomBuilder (Mar 7, 2017)

*Still some Great Numbers . . sounds like someone is Living Life . . *


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## [email protected] (Jun 11, 2014)

"There was a 2019 Arteon with nothing more than a APR Stage 1 tune and a CAI.Not even a downpipe or cat-back exhaust.
He only went 140 MPH. That 2.0 TSI Gen III is a beast compared to the prior generations. Wonder how hard that would be to transplant into my 2015? Pure talk as that’s not going to happen."

Fun fact, the Gen3 engine is actually physically weaker than the Gen 1 as it has 30% smaller main bearings, thinner connecting rods and less piston material (yay for a push for increased fuel economy and lower emissions!). All of the increased power that you see is due to the physically much larger IS38 turbocharger. The IS38 is larger than a K04. Even the IS20 that comes in the GTI and GLI is almost as big as a K04. While the turbochargers make more power in those Gen3 engines, we've been replacing the long blocks left and right since they can't seem to handle the power from some upgrades. We get a ton of people wanting to upgrade to the IS38 hybrid turbochargers but don't want to upgrade the internals. We typically see them back in the shop in about a month or two when the bottom end gives out.


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## CustomBuilder (Mar 7, 2017)

Must also be Smarter Computer , Better Piston Design . . After 8~9 Years of Design Forward thinking . . 
Does Head Breath Better ? Charles


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

[email protected] said:


> "There was a 2019 Arteon with nothing more than a APR Stage 1 tune and a CAI.Not even a downpipe or cat-back exhaust.
> He only went 140 MPH. That 2.0 TSI Gen III is a beast compared to the prior generations. Wonder how hard that would be to transplant into my 2015? Pure talk as that’s not going to happen."
> 
> Fun fact, the Gen3 engine is actually physically weaker than the Gen 1 as it has 30% smaller main bearings, thinner connecting rods and less piston material (yay for a push for increased fuel economy and lower emissions!). All of the increased power that you see is due to the physically much larger IS38 turbocharger. The IS38 is larger than a K04. Even the IS20 that comes in the GTI and GLI is almost as big as a K04. While the turbochargers make more power in those Gen3 engines, we've been replacing the long blocks left and right since they can't seem to handle the power from some upgrades. We get a ton of people wanting to upgrade to the IS38 hybrid turbochargers but don't want to upgrade the internals. We typically see them back in the shop in about a month or two when the bottom end gives out.


Interesting! Yes, I’ve seen Gen III Jetta's and GTI’s at the drag strip running 28# boost on CAI and down pipe with tune of some type. Recently saw a fully built Gen III with aftermarket short block and was at 35# boost and built for 45#. He was just breaking it in that night. 
What do you consider safe boost with proper tune on Gen II short-block with ARP studs? I seem to get 25# boost on cool days on the street but as I mentioned, about 20.5# at the track on a cool day. Will talk to tuner about that. 
Just bought a Milwaukee 18v small shop fan I’ll use to cool down the IC while in staging lanes. 
Funny, at the 1/2 mile drags last weekend I had a few people mentioning they were watching my car and it wasn’t because it was slowest car there.


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## CustomBuilder (Mar 7, 2017)

*WOW that's Crazy Boost _ Like Pro Mod - Run what Your B~rung Crowd with 10K Budgets . . just on Motor . . 
I'd be Happy with 23 Lbs & Have a Drive Train that doesn't Explode *


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## [email protected] (Jun 11, 2014)

CustomBuilder said:


> Must also be Smarter Computer , Better Piston Design . . After 8~9 Years of Design Forward thinking . .
> Does Head Breath Better ? Charles


The computer is newer and does have a faster processor, but less storage. For instance, you can run multiple maps on Gen 1 and Gen 2 ECUs, but the Gen 3 cannot. However, I've never found the ECU on the TSI to be a roadblock to performance. The extra processing is nice however when you're trying to make the engine run more efficiently (the wonderful trend of better emissions).

The pistons are better designed, but not for increased performance. They're designed for better fuel economy (unfortunately?). We have found them to be a weak point when people are running hybrid or big turbo setups. We've built a lot of big turbo and hybrid TSI setups over the years and we've never replaced this many Gen 1 TSI engines when they were at the same age (even with the failing tensioners). However, the Gen 2 TSI engines (were only used in Audi vehicles from 2008-2012) had horrible piston issues from the factory. The aftermarket piston options are the same from Gen 1 to Gen 3 TSI.

The head could potentially breathe better than the Gen 1 and 2, but the head has never really been a limiting factor with the TSI as it has more than enough airflow to support a big turbo setup. The factory intake manifolds on the other hand, are inferior on the Gen 1 engines in comparision to the Gen 3. However, the Gen 1 has aftermarket options for a better intake manifold (I don't know of any for the Gen 3).



WILLCCU said:


> Interesting! Yes, I’ve seen Gen III Jetta's and GTI’s at the drag strip running 28# boost on CAI and down pipe with tune of some type. Recently saw a fully built Gen III with aftermarket short block and was at 35# boost and built for 45#. He was just breaking it in that night.
> What do you consider safe boost with proper tune on Gen II short-block with ARP studs? I seem to get 25# boost on cool days on the street but as I mentioned, about 20.5# at the track on a cool day. Will talk to tuner about that.
> Just bought a Milwaukee 18v small shop fan I’ll use to cool down the IC while in staging lanes.
> Funny, at the 1/2 mile drags last weekend I had a few people mentioning they were watching my car and it wasn’t because it was slowest car there.


You should be fine with 25# of boost. We've run over 35# on Gen 1 TSI engines with stock headstuds on our dyno. Now if you're talking about sustained runs with over 30# on a high speed circuit, I'd recommend upgrading to the ARP units.


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## SYNYSTAGLX (Mar 9, 2000)

Following this one as well!


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Much to my surprise there was 1/4 Drag & Drift night at the track this Saturday 01/16/2021. It was a zoo! Had to have been over 400 cars racing one venue or the other. Took 50 minutes from freeway exit to pay booth just to get in. Then another 55 minutes in tech line. But I had my new 100 octane tune and a 1/2 tank of 100 proof. With 1/2 tank and me, the car is 3,535#. I was out with street tires (Michelin Pilot SS 3 season)
I was told by tuner not to run w/m on 100 tune as it would slow it down. 
1st pass I tried keeping the tires inflated trying to get a slight wheel spin which helped in the 1/2 mile drags. And I forgot to stiffen up the from Koni’s...1st & 2nd gear was like I was ice and I ran 17.0 @ 98 MPH. 
2nd pass I dropped front tires from 45# to 35# and full stiff on the front Koni’s. Too much spin and wheel hop, ran 14.78 @ 102.49. 
3rd pass I turned the single port w/m on and dropped front tires to 30# and hooked better but not great. 14.70 @ 103.28. So much for not running w/m! 
4th pass same as before but went to the 4-port injection. Planted the tires pretty good this time and I thought it was going to be best pass of the night but was disappointed with a 15.0 @ 103.0. 
So the 1-port is the best over 4-port. 
Getting out of the hole is obviously the big challenge because those MPH numbers are indicative of a 12.70 ET if the car worked like a drag car; which it is not. 
Finish line RPM’s were right at 7,000. 
Oh, IAT’s down track were about 100°, I had a 18v Milwaukee portable shop fan I was using on the radiator / IC while in staging lanes. It would cool IAT’s down 20° to 25°. Boost never went above 19#. It was a cool night (mid 50’s) so I don’t understand why the boost was not higher. Density altitude was 967’ at one point I looked; track elevation is around 1,250’. 
There was a Focus RS I watched on a few passes that alledgedly had 560 WHP and all wheel drive and he was spinning 3 tires and I saw him in the 13.20 range at 108 and 110 MPH. And damn, those RS3’s are at every track I go to and one was minor mods going 11.10 ET’s! Another was stock going 12.70’s and there was a heavily modified one in the low 10’s. 

So my take thus far is the K04 was best for things like the drag strip with lower RPM peak boost. My best with the K04 was 14.08 @ 104 MPH. But the R430 is a higher RPM deal as peak boost is over 5,000 RPM but man, it pulls like a freight train to 7,200 RPM and the K04 wasn’t like that. That R430 comes into play on the street from a higher speed roll in the right RPM / gear or a multiple downshift from freeway speeds. There was a newer Imprezza STI running 12.70’s and we were next to each other on the freeway on-ramp as we left the track. I’d call that one dead even and it lasted long enough that I was 1/2 way into 4th. Last week a Porsche SUV challenge me from about 40 MPH and he got beat pretty bad. I have no idea what engine he had but it made good noise for a few seconds. 

Sure wish I was geared different so I could put the car in 4th at the 1/2 mile drags. Or I could have a done all this with a DSG but I wouldn’t like the car as much as I do. 

Also, the hand held programer finally arrived as I got the stock BIN file from HPA (thank you!) so the tuner (Dyno Comp!) could throw his tunes on the programer. But there was a install issue so I will get that sometime this week. Then I’ll be able to run stock, 91 or 100 tunes. And honestly, I didn’t think the 100 tune was much better than the 91 tune with the w/m active on 91. But, I could tell the difference when I put the w/m on with the 100. The midrange to top end is just a blast. Maybe I need a small shot of NOS from 2000 RPM to 4500 RPM....
What I really want is a 2013-2016 S8...


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Ordered a ECS Tuning Blanket and DEI Heat Wrap for the down pipe. I’m doubtful, but on the off chance it spools up quicker, it may help. 
Just read online the next 1/2 mile drags are March 31st, 2021. 
Good news! Survived Open Heart surgery 01/25/2021! And I sure bounced back. Life is good, Lets race! 
Even the AMX is making great progress at the chassis shop:


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Great VW CC Day! Another day at the 1/2 mile drags. Rained the day / night before, today was partly cloudy and mid 60’s. Track elevation in Gila Bend, AZ is 763’ and the corrected density altitude was around 950’. There was a nice tailwind.
Previous best was 124.38 MPH but on average 122-123 MPH. This was a 91 octane tune with 100 octane fuel.
This time out was first time with 100 octane tune and 100 octane fuel. I also had a new install on a ECS Tuning K04 Turbo blanket on and DEI Header wrap on the down pipe from the turbo housing to the flex joint. Had a new oil change with Motul V300 5-40. Still has the Brisk Racing Plugs at .022” gap from last race.

First pass: 125.90 MPH
second pass: 126.12 MPH
Third pass: 129.01MPH!
Fourth pass: 128.93 MPH
Fifth pass: 126.76 MPH (didn’t get much of a cool down and kind of bogged in 1st gear)

On the 129.01 pass I had the IAT down to 95° +/-. I spun thru 1st gear and had wheel hop in shift to 2nd. IAT is the key and you have to spin to get the wheel speed up. I’m also finding it best to shift 1-2 at 7,000 RPM, shift 2-3 at 7,200 RPM and 3-4 at 6,800 RPM.

Might look into skinny drag race front runners for the rear next time as I have a spare pair of wheels. Will also los into somehow making the IAT’s cooler with a different intercooler? Or spray the intercooler? Maybe the Wagner Competition Intercooler I have which sandwiches between the radiator and A/C condensor needs to get swapped for a front mount? Things to look into....
But all-in-all, I’m pretty happy with today.
Oh...only one daughter was out today with the 04 Mustang GT convertible. Still stock except for the SCT tune. But this time we had 95 octane in the tank and a 93 octane tune which I added more timing to. Best went from 115.3 to 117.00! She was very happy also. We raced on my last pass. The one where I bogged on launch....I didn’t catch her until just before the cones and I took the stripe by only 1/2 a fender! But she says she won...


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

I wrote this on a turbo forum. Any input from VW experts would be greatly appreciated!

My daily driver is a 2015 VW CC with the 2.0 turbo. I’ve modified it from factory 200 CHP to 360 WHP (around 435 CHP?). I take it to the 1/4 mile drag races and recently have been to four 1/2 mile events where MPH is only recorded. On 1/2 mile I started out around 118 MPH and most recently 129 MPH personal best. This is with 100 octane fuel and 100 specific tune and using a K04 housing with hybrid internals. HPA (a VW vendor) calls this Turbo the R430. 
Using a standard K04 (used on Golf R VW), I have been a best of 14.08 @ 104 MPH in 1/4 mile drag race. Every since I put on the larger R430, it’s kind of a dog at the 1/4 drags; usually 14.80’s or soar 102. 
This is a FWD 6-speed manual transmission so plenty of issues there. I have run Drag Radials but some wheel speed on sticky street tires is best. 
The 1/2 mile is most fun as is a downshift a gear or two from 65-75 MPH on the freeway. Definitely this R430 is larger and of course it doesn’t spool up as quick as the K04 did. But it pull hard to 7200 RPM. 
So I like the R430 but quicker spool up would probably help. 
Is it possible to machine the R430 (again, uses a K04 housing) to allow for ball bearings? Probably not cheap but where to go if possible and does it make a noticeable difference?


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## kosmaras (Feb 27, 2016)

WILLCCU said:


> I wrote this on a turbo forum. Any input from VW experts would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> My daily driver is a 2015 VW CC with the 2.0 turbo. I’ve modified it from factory 200 CHP to 360 WHP (around 435 CHP?). I take it to the 1/4 mile drag races and recently have been to four 1/2 mile events where MPH is only recorded. On 1/2 mile I started out around 118 MPH and most recently 129 MPH personal best. This is with 100 octane fuel and 100 specific tune and using a K04 housing with hybrid internals. HPA (a VW vendor) calls this Turbo the R430.
> Using a standard K04 (used on Golf R VW), I have been a best of 14.08 @ 104 MPH in 1/4 mile drag race. Every since I put on the larger R430, it’s kind of a dog at the 1/4 drags; usually 14.80’s or soar 102.
> ...


As I previously mentioned, your dyno graph is indicative of a really slow boost ramp, which isn't necessarily derived by the hybrid turbo you're running, but rather the tune. There are other large hybrid K04-based turbos that perform very well and outperform the stock K04 (which yours is not doing in the 1/4 mile) such as the Venom Hybrid out of the UK and the Mabotech MB450/500. If the HPA Hybrid is in-line with these, I think your issue may be the tune.

Have you thought about a custom Eurodyne tune from Frank at Mabotech? He is very familiar with tuning these engines with a K04 based hybrid turbo.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Where are they located?


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## kosmaras (Feb 27, 2016)

WILLCCU said:


> Where are they located?


I think the Dominican Republic or something, but it would be a remote tune using Eurodyne. Danny Hampton made 450whp on a M500 (K04 based hybrid) on meth through Frank.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Is a better tune one that would be aggressive and a potential time bomb? That’s what both HPA and the current tuner have warned me about. 
I know the waste gate isn’t even opening so it’s not a matter of backing off on the boost. So I’m confused on what the tuning issue may be...other than it probably needs more ignition timing. We here in Arizona enjoy the worst 91 octane in the USA (shared with western states CA, OR, WA and NV) and 93 or better is not available unless you find a rare specialty pump (which is where I get 95 or 100). But on average, we’re stuck with crap 91. I know one of my tunes is called “91 plus) and it’s for a mix of 91/95 and the ignition timing is more advanced. So I kinda think the tune is held back by the fuel. 
What should max timing be on a WOT steady run?


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## kosmaras (Feb 27, 2016)

WILLCCU said:


> Is a better tune one that would be aggressive and a potential time bomb? That’s what both HPA and the current tuner have warned me about.
> I know the waste gate isn’t even opening so it’s not a matter of backing off on the boost. So I’m confused on what the tuning issue may be...other than it probably needs more ignition timing. We here in Arizona enjoy the worst 91 octane in the USA (shared with western states CA, OR, WA and NV) and 93 or better is not available unless you find a rare specialty pump (which is where I get 95 or 100). But on average, we’re stuck with crap 91. I know one of my tunes is called “91 plus) and it’s for a mix of 91/95 and the ignition timing is more advanced. So I kinda think the tune is held back by the fuel.
> What should max timing be on a WOT steady run?


I'm not suggesting to move to a tune so aggressive that you are risking the motor, but I'd also be disappointed with this money and time in a car that runs stage 1 1/4 mile times and with very little information my thought is the tune. Since they have the power ramp up so slow, have you tried raising the rev limiter to 7,500 or 8,000? You have a built head so it can handle the RPM and your 100 octane file is holding power to 7,200. This may keep you in the torque/powerband better. I'm on the IE K04 91 octane file and I am hitting 11-12 degrees of timing at redline. Boost peaks 22 psi and tapers to 18 by 7,000. Here's a log file of my IE K04 CC. datazap.me | kosmaras | 2013 CC R-Line Integrated Engineering K04 91 Octane

I've also found a dyno graph of an MK6 TSI with a TTE420 (seems similar to the R430) tuned by R-Tech in the UK who is a very reputable tuner for these vehicles with Hybrid turbos. You can see at 4,000 RPM that car is making 300whp and 380wtq where as yours is making 200whp and 250wtq...That is a massive difference and all because of the tune.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

That’s interesting....I just went for a ride by myself in the desert. It’s a cool 75° at 6:30 P.M., probably very little to no humidity. I used my i-phone video with my left hand so you can watch the P3 gauge on ignition timing, the tachometer and digital speed. If you send your text# to 6024189797 I will send it to you because I don’t know how to load a video. Keep in mind I’m steering and shifting with the right hand only! LOL. 
Bottom line, on 91 octane Circle K fuel and 91 tune, it’s more like 0° ignition timing past 6,000 RPM +/-.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

And that’s with the W/M on. So there shouldn’t be any detonation issues going on. Engine is tuned with W/M off. 
I saw 18.5# boost on tonights runs. About normal for this ambient temperatures.


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## kosmaras (Feb 27, 2016)

Do you have a way to log the car? Do you have VCDS? I'm not a tuner, but I've been tinkering with turbocharged cars for the last 20 years so I have some idea of what makes power on these cars. If you can log certain parameters, do so and then load it up on datazap.me - this way anyone here can take a look at the data in graphical form.

0* advance at 6,000 is concerning to me. Either the tuner didn't spend enough time on the timing tables or the car is pulling timing all the way down to zero. Have you checked timing correction (knock retard)?

I would seriously consider a remote tune from someone with Eurodyne to get this thing dialed in. Not saying the last shop you went to doesn't know what the'yre doing, but they may not be as familiar with the EA888 as you'd hope. If you poke around my IE log you can see what the tune is commanding (except for AFR, they don't log that due to the limitations of the MK6 generation ECU performance - they claim it slows the logging down).


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

I do have a VAGCOM but am somewhat of a slow learner on stuff like that. However.....and call me a dippoop....I got a code P0303 (misfire #3 cylinder) the other day. This, on top of the P0341 (Camshaft position sensor) I get hit with constantly; of which I have detailed here in-depth previously. So I said I would go home and put a new set of spark plugs in. Again, I’ve been running BRISK gapped at .022” which was worth 3/4 MPH on the 1/2 mile races. Cut to the chase, all 4 spark plugs were finger tight! I put them in, I’ve replaced probably hundreds of plugs in my life, I have no idea how or why they would all be so loose but I have to take the blame because I put them in there. And that was 6 months ago? I’ve raced the 1/2 mile on them twice. Don’t know how long they’ve been loose but this time I actually used my digital Snap-On TQ wrench at 22#. Of course it runs better, smoother, etc. Took it out at 75° ambient temp and WOT 3rd gear was 4°-5° @ 7,000 RPM. 

PRIOR to this revelation and fix, I stopped by the tuner and without pulling the file (he was busy), he was perplexed why it would be 0° unless poor quality fuel. He did not change the OEM sensitivity of the knock sensors. I called him up after changing the plugs and let him know about the problem and new timing. Also, they are looking for a new / used ECU. The concern has been and still is, the ECU has been thru HPA and now this tuner and there seems to be use with the stock BIN I finally got from HPA. Long story reported here previously. Concerned there is a compromising issue going on between files as the Dongle we were trying to use the out of Italy failed every time we tried to upload or download files; then got another Dongle and same problem. Unfortunately, a manual transmission ECU for a 2015 CC seems as rare as hens teeth. Have found ECU in either Yugoslavia or Ukrain but I’d like to avoid that international issue if possible. I’ll check with VW Monday.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Installed brand new from VW ECU today. That was a waste of $900. Old ECU and new ECU on 91 tune were within +/-2 HP of each other. HP and TQ are down 50 WHP +/- from last dyno session. 
Shop checked compression and it’s good. They’re going to look at the turbo and make sure it’s holding up. Car is a little lazy on the bottom RPM’s.
It was this time last year we replaced the head, cam, timing chain / gears, etc. 10,000-12,000 miles? Could cam timing be off from instal or jumped tooth? I don’t know but that will be checked. Computer only reads front (intake) cam; what if exhaust cam is off? Again, I dunno, needs to be looked at. 
Shop says turbo is mis-matched “horribly” to the engine. There were some responses here with recommendations on better turbos but I can’t find them. What turbo and what manifold? I’d like to have a real 450+ CHP on 100 octane. Or more; using the factory short-block with my ARP studs. 
Frustrated...!


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## kirzan (Jan 5, 2015)

WILLCCU said:


> I do have a VAGCOM but am somewhat of a slow learner on stuff like that. However.....and call me a dippoop....I got a code P0303 (misfire #3 cylinder) the other day. This, on top of the P0341 (Camshaft position sensor) I get hit with constantly; of which I have detailed here in-depth previously. So I said I would go home and put a new set of spark plugs in. Again, I’ve been running BRISK gapped at .022” which was worth 3/4 MPH on the 1/2 mile races. Cut to the chase, all 4 spark plugs were finger tight! I put them in, I’ve replaced probably hundreds of plugs in my life, I have no idea how or why they would all be so loose but I have to take the blame because I put them in there. And that was 6 months ago? I’ve raced the 1/2 mile on them twice. Don’t know how long they’ve been loose but this time I actually used my digital Snap-On TQ wrench at 22#. Of course it runs better, smoother, etc. Took it out at 75° ambient temp and WOT 3rd gear was 4°-5° @ 7,000 RPM.
> 
> PRIOR to this revelation and fix, I stopped by the tuner and without pulling the file (he was busy), he was perplexed why it would be 0° unless poor quality fuel. He did not change the OEM sensitivity of the knock sensors. I called him up after changing the plugs and let him know about the problem and new timing. Also, they are looking for a new / used ECU. The concern has been and still is, the ECU has been thru HPA and now this tuner and there seems to be use with the stock BIN I finally got from HPA. Long story reported here previously. Concerned there is a compromising issue going on between files as the Dongle we were trying to use the out of Italy failed every time we tried to upload or download files; then got another Dongle and same problem. Unfortunately, a manual transmission ECU for a 2015 CC seems as rare as hens teeth. Have found ECU in either Yugoslavia or Ukrain but I’d like to avoid that international issue if possible. I’ll check with VW Monday.


Not sure it helps, but there's a guy in Hawaii who had one.


Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk


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## kosmaras (Feb 27, 2016)

WILLCCU said:


> Installed brand new from VW ECU today. That was a waste of $900. Old ECU and new ECU on 91 tune were within +/-2 HP of each other. HP and TQ are down 50 WHP +/- from last dyno session.
> Shop checked compression and it’s good. They’re going to look at the turbo and make sure it’s holding up. Car is a little lazy on the bottom RPM’s.
> It was this time last year we replaced the head, cam, timing chain / gears, etc. 10,000-12,000 miles? Could cam timing be off from instal or jumped tooth? I don’t know but that will be checked. Computer only reads front (intake) cam; what if exhaust cam is off? Again, I dunno, needs to be looked at.
> Shop says turbo is mis-matched “horribly” to the engine. There were some responses here with recommendations on better turbos but I can’t find them. What turbo and what manifold? I’d like to have a real 450+ CHP on 100 octane. Or more; using the factory short-block with my ARP studs.
> Frustrated...!


Bummer, sorry to hear that. Any chance you can log the car so we can take a look at it in Datazap? Just to see what they're doing with the calibration? As far as another turbo, I see a lot of folks really like the Mabotech M500...bolts on like a K04 and can make 500hp...Check out Danny Hampton on YouTube...he had one on his MK6 GTI and it was a beast.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Thanks. I’m looking at the Mabotech turbo and have an inquiry about fitment to my CC. 
Dropped by the tuner today and they are going to change the oil back to Motul 5-40 (I put Amsoil 5-20 in before the drop off at the shop) & check the turbo shaft. 
Boost curve, timing curve, fuel curve are virtually identical to last dyno / tune session. Ambient temperature is hotter (100°) but car is in shop a/c environment with dyno fans. 
Need to figure out problem before worrying about my own data logs. I have VAGCOM so I’m sure I can figure it out. Well maybe... LOL


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Sooooo.Compression check and even leak down check all good. As stated previously, all boost / fuel / ignition curves as previous. They did not pull the down-pipe off to get a perfect view of the turbo but no direct evidence of a problem like scored inside of housing. But of course you can’t see the outer diameter of turbine so that is something else to more closely exaimin. 
Contacted HPA and they provided me with the R430 sizing (in a K04 housing)....
The turbine wheel is 55/50mm - The compressor wheel is 52/68mm. Not able to provide the A/R specs but I would assume it’s on the low end of the scale? 
Next will make double sure the cam timing is correct. Uses oil and it seems to be on deceleration. Valve guides? Only about 10K on the new head. Turbo seal? Seems more likely. 
Looking at loading it with this Garrett Turbo: 
GEN2 - GTX2867R (500HP) - Stock Location Turbo & Manifold for 2.0T FSI / TSI - Code: ATP-VVW-318 - Price: $2,275.00
Will not consider until I’m satisfied there is nothing else wrong.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Anybody still reading this novel? LOL....
OK, now I think I’m on to something. Pay close attention...
New PCM in car with 91 tune. DynoComp determined the New and old PCM were +/- 2HP of one another. Way down on power. They checked compression and leak-down and (while I would have preferred they wrote down the numbers!); “it’s fine”. They changed out the Brisk -2 heat range to NGK -1 heat range. They absolutely do not like the K04/R430 Turbo; not enough bottom end. By the way....they have in the past held the waste gate shut (with vacuum) and it still doesn’t help the boost. 
I showed them a dyno of allegedly “mirror image” engine of mine in a GTI / DSG tuned by HPA. Basically, TQ about peaks at 3400 RPM and remains flat to about 5300 RPM while HP climbs to peak at 6000 RPM and holds it there until dyno run is over at 6600 RPM. Peak HP: 364 / Peak TQ 353. My CC Peak HP WAS 341. Now it is 260. So yes, you would say something was wrong....
The first thing they said was two things; 1) the Canadian R430 has a better turbo housing for some reason (unless my turbo is damaged) because it builds boost much lower RPM OR, my cam timing (exhaust most likely) is off and creating excessive exhaust overlap. Which is what I was talking about....
So I drive the car all day (and it’s 117° outside!) and while doggy, considering the heat, it’s smooth, runs good and no fault code EXCEPT when I first drove the car away from the shop I saw a 011 code which I’ve never seen before. I googled 011 code and nothing found. So I cleared the code and drove off. Put on around 150 miles in the heat of the day, no codes, no drivability issues, all good. At the end of the day I drop by the shop and said “I told you”, the PCM was the issue. Tuner finds this hard to believe so he says “put the old PCM in the car”. So today I drove around with the old PCM. Still 117° outside. I drive down the freeway about 45 minutes, no issues. I’m thinking “maybe it was spark plugs?”, get off freeway. From the time I got off freeway to VW dealer, the EPC light flickered 3 times. I left the dealer and 0341 flashed (camshaft position sensor) when I started the car. I cleared the code, drove off. Not 3 minutes go by and the Oil pressure malfunction! flashes turn off engine (oil change like 250 miles ago with Motul and VW filter), so I turned engine off while moving and started it up again; no issues. Then I get to lunch and another 0341. So in a 15 minute period 3x EPC, 2X Camshaft Position sensor, 1x engine warning (oil). I drive 2 miles to meet a client for lunch and in the parking lot I change out the old PCM for the new PCM (and it’s HOT!). 
Start car, no problem. Eat lunch, start car and P0011 code. See before I thought I saw 011. I look up that code and what do you know! Intake Camshaft is “more advanced than what the ECM has commanded it to be”. Now this is a code the old PCM NEVER showed. I BELIEVE the new PCM recognizes this while the old PCM created error after error and it’s just f’d up somehow. Now moving forward, this to me explains a lot. If camshaft(s) are out of phase from one another, for whatever reason, it’s NEVER going to run right. Spoke to my VW buddy that put on the parts around 10,000 miles ago and he’s going to check tomorrow about warranty the new intake cam / phaser and whatever else and one way or the other get to the bottom of why this is happening. And while that R430 turbo may not be the best thing, it did make 341.1 HP on 91 in the past. We fix this problem and I’ll put the Garrett GTX2871-R on this CC. 
And the mechanic did say correctly, the car was an animal with the K04 and was never the same with the R430 and bigger valves. And that old PCM is obviously messed up for some reason.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Finally got the CC worked on. I fully expected something wrong with cam timing. Timing chain was installed perfectly. So that’s not the problem. This apparently was the problem:









This is the new bridge I replaced maybe 10,000 miles ago. The screen is popped out (the original bridge had same problem though the valve behind the screen popped out when the bridge was removed). VW says now if you have this issue, just pull out the screen and the plastic retainer. So that’s what was done. Could find no other problems. Cams and chain were double checked and installed perfectly. Still has new ECU. buttoned it up and it runs great. 
That valve behind the screen hydraulically controls the Intake cam phaser. I had the P0011 code “front cam over advanced” and the problem is now apparently fixed. Has noticeably better bottom end and with it 103° outside, I saw 16.8# boost and it held the high boost much longer. For that ambient temperature, that is unheard of for this car. Around 14 - 14.5PSI in that heat would probably be normal. 
AllI can think of is the screen being cocked like that it was somehow impeding the travel of that valve? Anybody have an explanation? 
Have not seen one code pop up since. 

OK...maybe that is fixed. I’m looking at Garret TurbosAP Tuning suggested GTX2867R but they also suggested two different new gen turbos; GT2550 and GT25660. 25 indicates a T-25 flange, 550 or 660 represents HP potential. 
The big question I can’t answer; Would a Mark 6 Golf R exhaust manifold interchange with my 2015 CC exhaust manifold? If so, that seems to open up some doors.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

At the dyno tune today they determined the turbo is bad. Yea....hopefully that is true and I can get the thing fixed. But at this point, I’d rather put a Garrett Turbo on it than rebuild the current R430. The question should be...how long has this been a problem? I don’t know how many miles are on this turbo. Maybe 20,000 or so??? 
Just reviewed my HPA emails. Looks like the R430 went on the car along with the ported head and +1mm valves with stiffer valve springs and new valve guides summer 2019. So two years use. 
I’m just about to hit 100,000 miles / 6 years since purchase so 16,500 per year average = 33,000 miles??? Whatever; checking on parts. I did read emails that my down pipe from HPA is Mk6 item. 
I spoke to ECS Tuning today and their trying to cross reference parts to see what I have that will work (or not).


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Picked up car today. They said no HP on the MSD coils (which doesn’t surprise me) but I do think it’s smoother and has more bottom end punch with light tip-in throttle. Right now we’re right at 275 WHP. A far cry from 341 WHP. We’ve got good compression, good leak down, good cams and cam timing; no known issues but lack of serious power. Will start on v-band exhaust manifold and Garrett turbo with related parts starting Monday.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

P0341 still haunts me. That has turned into a hard start situation.
Changed out the never replaced Crank position sensor. Didn’t fix it but seemed to run a tiny bit better. 
Changed the often replaced Cam Position Sensor. Didn’t fix it but seemed to run a tiny bit better. 
Changed out the never replaced Oil Pressure Sensor. While it was out, I used a mechanical pressure gauge to check pressure; At 190° water temperature I had 23# at idle and 50# at 5,000 RPM steady at all pressures / RPM. Oddly, Didn’t fix it but seemed to run a tiny bit better. 
Seems to run great once started. 
Consulted with a few local gurus and it was suggested I go to Jason @ London Auto Werks. They checked cam timing and it was spot on. They then found out the camshaft phaser had no oil in it so there’s blockage somewhere. I change Motul every 5,000 miles and I have run LiquiMoly and Mobile 1 in the past. Not like I am deviant on oil! But this does follow my theory this is all oil or oil pressure related. So they are working on it and are pulling both balance shafts out (something I’ve inquired about in the past but my idea was shot down). I see there are (3) screens per balance shaft. And just like the screen on the cam bridge, they can fail. I’ve seen mention of taking the dang screens out but it’s the decision of the shop. Presently, I don’t know if the $2,270.00 is going to fix it but I sure hope so! I’m just to stupid or stubborn to give up. Next 1/2 mile race is 10/23/21 so I hope it’s fixed by then...


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Ad another $900 to R&R engine as balance shaft bearing is stuck in the block. Balance shafts do spin, it’s the outer bearing that’s frozen. And the ECS aftermarket aluminum water pump leaks  
so in with an OEM water pump @ $500. I asked if they were ok in removing the balance shaft screens and they will do so. Hopefully done by mid-week. This may also entail back to the dyno tune as I’m assuming tuning was done with camshaft improperly phased.


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## VirgoPHD (Dec 12, 2014)

Are you going to go with the 4motion conversation?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

VirgoPHD said:


> Are you going to go with the 4motion conversation?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


No


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## VirgoPHD (Dec 12, 2014)

Ok, now this has me rethinking the whole big build. I Ijust saw a video about the issue with tuning a CC







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

The problem is he appears to be trying a off the shelf tune and that will not work (especially true if you have a 6MT like I do). I could not get a OTS tune for my CC and eventually sent my ECU to HPA and they tuned it that way for my HPA K04. Looking back, that was the best I had for the street and ran in the 14.00’s at over 104 MPH was my best. 
I have since found a local tuner and that’s what I’ve been working with. Best WHP w/ R430 HPA Turbo has been 340 on 91 octane and 359 on 100 octane. Always want more but that’s nothing to be ashamed about although the HP doesn’t come in until late in the RPM’s. That needs to be fixed and I’m sure I’ll run a bigger turbo for that. I was at first very interested in the parts shown in the video above but the more I looked into Frank Mabo and his parts....I dunno no, think I would pass. I’m probably most interested in Garrett Turbos. 

Update:
Shop still has car and has even spoken to VW Tech over the hard start issues.
Long story wrapped up: they replaced balance shafts. They degreed in the cam timing to perfection. It now gets oil to the cam phaser. But now appears oil starvation (for whatever reason; suspect it’s oil screen damage from somewhere) caused keyway damage to internal of camshaft phaser so now yet another (this makes 3rd!) Intake Camshaft replacement. Internal phaser damage apparently does not allow for proper alignment of phaser at start. It does make sense to me. Problems with hi-tech cars are everything has to work in zen or you have issues. 

These oil related issues have been intermittently going on for a looong...time. Even with tuning going on. So tuning will need to be addressed again once it’s up and running and all parts are in harmony. One can only hope....LOL!


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## VirgoPHD (Dec 12, 2014)

WILLCCU said:


> The problem is he appears to be trying a off the shelf tune and that will not work (especially true if you have a 6MT like I do). I could not get a OTS tune for my CC and eventually sent my ECU to HPA and they tuned it that way for my HPA K04. Looking back, that was the best I had for the street and ran in the 14.00’s at over 104 MPH was my best.
> I have since found a local tuner and that’s what I’ve been working with. Best WHP w/ R430 HPA Turbo has been 340 on 91 octane and 359 on 100 octane. Always want more but that’s nothing to be ashamed about although the HP doesn’t come in until late in the RPM’s. That needs to be fixed and I’m sure I’ll run a bigger turbo for that. I was at first very interested in the parts shown in the video above but the more I looked into Frank Mabo and his parts....I dunno no, think I would pass. I’m probably most interested in Garrett Turbos.
> 
> Update:
> ...


I’m glad you responded I was about to give up, just like you I’m running a 6mt and I have a the same turbo that you’re considering upgrading to, I was originally stage 2+ with unitronic, but they refuse to do a run flap delete file or at the time they didn’t want to do that so now I’m thinking maestro for the tune and I also upgraded my clutch to the DKM stage 3, i read that the cbfa intercoolers are bigger than the Cta counterparts, so I’m wondering I should run a front mount or just swap out the IC all together 


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

VirgoPHD said:


> I’m glad you responded I was about to give up, just like you I’m running a 6mt and I have a the same turbo that you’re considering upgrading to, I was originally stage 2+ with unitronic, but they refuse to do a run flap delete file or at the time they didn’t want to do that so now I’m thinking maestro for the tune and I also upgraded my clutch to the DKM stage 3, i read that the cbfa intercoolers are bigger than the Cta counterparts, so I’m wondering I should run a front mount or just swap out the IC all together
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I just posted some questions on the “Big Mod List” about Garrett Turbo GTX series upgrade. 
I have the full sized Wagner Competition IC that is sandwiched like the factory. I think the trade off is you want a big IC (so it will have to be a sandwich mount), or if you want a FIC, then I believe you trade for smaller size. You can also have both in series but I talked to a guy that did that on his GTI and he did say there was a noticeable turbo lag once he did so. 

I started with remote tuning and I’ll never do it again. I had so much in dyno & data logging, then send file and there was never any urgency in getting the new tune then repeat, repeat, repeat. That was with HPA. Not to long ago I emailed some guru in the Caribbean (forgot his name; was it that Frank Mambo?) and I saw this turning into the same problem. His website said how important his time with family was at the beach and it was minimum of a week response time sometimes asking questions I already answered. I finally said I didn’t want to do business with him. 
I found this place in my neck of the woods (Dyno Comp) and they handle the dyno / data / tune and done in a day or two. The problem has been the car for awhile and they have expressed their displeasure in my R430 Turbo so they can only do so much. but again, 340 on 91 / 359 on 100 is not piss poor. If they could get it sooner on the rev’s, like about 1500-2000 RPM sooner, that would be killer. But it’s because HPA put together a compromised unit in my opinion. Maybe that’s why it’s not in their catalog. Tuner promises less lag, sooner boost, more power with a Garrett. But I’m running out of money right now!!!


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Replaced balans shafts, water pump, re-timed (again and again and again....) all belts, Runs great. Take it to dyno for tune and up pops P0341 camshaft position sensor....and it’s down another 30 HP (244 HP and at one time I had 340 HP on 91 tune!!!) - back to shop and they clear code and it doesn’t come up again. Picking it up tomorrow and go have a talk again with the tuner on the way home.


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## VirgoPHD (Dec 12, 2014)

WILLCCU said:


> Replaced balans shafts, water pump, re-timed (again and again and again....) all belts, Runs great. Take it to dyno for tune and up pops P0341 camshaft position sensor....and it’s down another 30 HP (244 HP and at one time I had 340 HP on 91 tune!!!) - back to shop and they clear code and it doesn’t come up again. Picking it up tomorrow and go have a talk again with the tuner on the way home.


What injectors are you running and how far is your tuner from 10550? I’ll have to get to a tuner within 30 days of getting my baby back on the road. 


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Tuner is in Scottsdale, Arizona. 
I have stock injectors. HPA and current tuner have both indicated the fuel system is adequate. 
Just picked car up from the mechanic today and it’s 67° ambient outside and sure feels a lot faster than 244 WHP to me. 
Just bought a high mileage (but good running) 2002 Harley Davidson F-150 with factory supercharged 340 HP 5.4 and 3.73 gears. When new they were reportedly running 14.6 ET. I’m sure my CC would blow it away. Will have to find out...


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

For seamless replacement of the turbo, CTS Turbo recommends this:


https://www.ctsturbo.com/product/cts-turbo-k04-x-hybrid-turbocharger-for-fsi-and-tsi-gen1-engines-ea113-and-ea888-1/



I’m sure it’s an improvement over the R430 Turbo that may even be bad. 

I have my eye on this from CTS Turbo and will talk to them tomorrow about interchangeability with my current parts. I do not want to get into replacing the exhaust parts to make it work. 


https://www.ctsturbo.com/product/cts-turbo-ea888-1-mk6-2-0t-boss500-kit-transverse/



Any comments?

Thanks.


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## VirgoPHD (Dec 12, 2014)

WILLCCU said:


> For seamless replacement of the turbo, CTS Turbo recommends this:
> 
> 
> https://www.ctsturbo.com/product/cts-turbo-k04-x-hybrid-turbocharger-for-fsi-and-tsi-gen1-engines-ea113-and-ea888-1/
> ...


I see the 500 hundred is sold out already 


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Sooooo....I have driven at least 1/2 dozen full tanks of gas since repairs to engine. Every one of them yielded around 425 miles per tank. Before repairs it was around 325 miles per tank. Neither way was I ***** footing’ around trying to squeeze every gallon I could. My opinion is whatever was wrong, is no longer wrong. Compression and leak down are excellent, still uses oil, and I’m convinced it’s a dyeing turbo. Oh yea....went to 1/2 mile drags after engine repairs and while it seemed to run great, best MPH was 123 against prior 129 MPH. Weather was cool. 
Taking this all in, I just said “what the hell” and ordered this. Hopefully it will fit...








*GTX2867R GEN II 50mm*
GTX2867R GEN II GEN 2 AERODYNAMICS FEATURE INCREASED HORSEPOWER RANGE IMPROVED PORTED SHROUD DESIGN FOR SURGE RESISTANCE NEW FULLY MACHINED SPEED SENSOR







www.garrettmotion.com


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

I ordered with .64 AR. Has ceramic bearings. 
And while at the races last, I tried both my 91 ECU and 100 ECU, changed plugs, tried 3x different single port w/m injectors along with multiple start and peak rates for w/m injection. In the end my 1st pass was 123 MPH and another 10 passes between 118-122 MPH. 
Also, if anybody is reading this, I ordered a valve cover breather with the one-way check valve. breather and valve are incorporated in the oil fill cap. Interesting concept for boosted engines that I have not seen before. They are making one for me and will market it for VW. Said they would have one my way in about 4-6 weeks. I told them the oil filler cap for VW / Audi / Porsche are pretty much interchangeable but I do not know what engines and years. Anybody know??? If so, please post and I’ll pass it on to them.


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## VirgoPHD (Dec 12, 2014)

WILLCCU said:


> I ordered with .64 AR. Has ceramic bearings.
> And while at the races last, I tried both my 91 ECU and 100 ECU, changed plugs, tried 3x different single port w/m injectors along with multiple start and peak rates for w/m injection. In the end my 1st pass was 123 MPH and another 10 passes between 118-122 MPH.
> Also, if anybody is reading this, I ordered a valve cover breather with the one-way check valve. breather and valve are incorporated in the oil fill cap. Interesting concept for boosted engines that I have not seen before. They are making one for me and will market it for VW. Said they would have one my way in about 4-6 weeks. I told them the oil filler cap for VW / Audi / Porsche are pretty much interchangeable but I do not know what engines and years. Anybody know??? If so, please post and I’ll pass it on to them.


Please share more info on this 


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

The breather? Will do. 
GTX2867R arrived  
Scheduling install by end of week. COVID has hit the shop


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## Andre outlaw (12 mo ago)

WILLCCU said:


> Just made a few more mods to the 2.0 6-speed Sport. Previous Mods:
> 1) HPA Tune
> 2) HPA Cast Aluminum Intake Manifold
> 3) HPA Downpipe & Midpipe w/ Hi-Flow Catalytic Converter
> ...


These 14 sec 1/4 mile times hurt my soul
I just did all the same upgrades on my 2012. waiting on a tune so I have t been able to run it yet. Need to “break in” the clutch
Hp numbers are supposed to be around 400 but I was hoping to at LEAST be in the 12’s 
Really hope that Arizona heat is all that’s making your car run two seconds slower than I anticipated running😩
Thanks for the descriptive post and numbers for reference


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Andre outlaw said:


> These 14 sec 1/4 mile times hurt my soul
> I just did all the same upgrades on my 2012. waiting on a tune so I have t been able to run it yet. Need to “break in” the clutch
> Hp numbers are supposed to be around 400 but I was hoping to at LEAST be in the 12’s
> Really hope that Arizona heat is all that’s making your car run two seconds slower than I anticipated running😩
> Thanks for the descriptive post and numbers for reference


That was awhile ago! The K04 had the best drag strip times and I had it in decent Barometric Pressures (cool nights with corrected density altitudes at or below track elevation which is around 1250’) and I was disappointed to never break into the 13’s. While almost any mildly modded GTI seems to run high 12’s with a DSG trans. But they can launch at 4,000 RPM and are lighter as well. My CC with drag radials would usually bog if I tried for maximum traction and a bog can slow you down a second or two. And if you want to try a higher RPM launch and side-stepping the clutch pedal, you might be buying axles. I’ve never been that brave. And I would love to somehow change trans gearing. I go thru the lights at about 7,000 RPM in 3rd. If I could make it 1/2 way thru 4th, it would be much better. If I put it in 4th before the finish line, it just pulls the engine down too far. 
The R430 turbo was worst than the K04 in town and drag strip but better at higher speeds and 1/2 mile races. But it’s about to come off. The new Garrett GTX2867R will hopefully get installed next week but the shop has had employee absences due to COVID. I do expect good things but maybe you’ve heard that hear before! I really hope to see that that R430 turbo is shot. It will explain a lot. 
Good luck on your venture, hope to see you run better than I. You're running a K04 or what?


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)




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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Sorry about the double picture. 
Pulled the R430 Turbo off today. I fully expected turbine play (not really to bad), but totally surprised to see the waste gate condition. Friend suggested I JB Welding the fractures. LOL!


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Stock K03 on left, HPA R430 (current Turbo) center, Garrett GTX2867R on the right. Prior to the R430 I had a K04 (which was modified to R430).


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Dropped by the shop today. It’s in line for dyno tuning. So I asked if it was ok to start it up. Sure they said. 
OMG!!! The amount of noise coming from the air filter sounded like 10 5HP shop vacs tied together! 
And the turbine whiiirrr....
Can’t wait for tomorrow, should be done!


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Here it is:
100 octane with meth single port injection = 378.7 and 384.5 TQ
91 octane with meth single port injection = 335.3 HP and 318.2 TQ
100 octane = 25# boost (although I hit 27.9# in 4th gear on way home)
91 octane = 20# boost
Doesn’t seem like much? It shreds the nearly new 245 Michelin Pilot Super Sports starting at 4500 in 2nd gear and it will do it again in 3rd gear. Torque steer, which I’ve never had a problem with, is still occurring in 4th gear. Shop says their dyno is a 25% loss on a 2 WD manual transmission. If that’s so, then we’re at 473 CHP and 480 CTQ. Everyone wants to argue conversion factors. So what. 
Drives at slow speeds better than before. Turbo lag? I sure don’t notice any if your in the right gear. 
The ECU would not keep the boost sensor in accurate control. So they added a manual boost controller. 
They added a Turbo Smart V-Port BOV. 
Install was pretty straight forward but they had to build a different charge pipe. 
Retained my down / mid pipe. 
IE air intake was retained. 
There’s plenty more in this turbo. Tuner stopped at 25# boost as he didn’t want to risk damage to the stock pistons and rods. 
I’m going back tomorrow. I have no experience with a BOV but I suspect the spring tension needs to be tighter as it seems to flutter in 1st & 2nd gear. And idle speed is too high. 
I just heard today the next 1/2 mile No Fly Zone race is March 26th. Should be interesting!


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

New set of problems....LOL! Traction Control can not be defeated by the push of the TC button. The TC button will help somewhat but if your able to annihilate the front tires, the TC will still engage. Shop data logged on the street using my Nitto 555 Drag Radials and at around 6000 RPM in 1st gear it starts spinning (TC button disengaged; off) enough that it drops ignition timing from WOT 18° to 6° and the throttle blade closes down. This also happens around 4,000 RPM in 2nd gear. 
Did some research here and apparently US Federal Law as of 2012 requires TC and its various versions to keep us from sliding into people and trees. I know some Makes / Models allow full disengagement but you have to work at it through various button pushing on multiple levels. Perhaps as the CC is not a “performance” model, there are more nannies that we can not easily mitigate. Anybody know better? I’m all ears. 
Shop did pull fuse #2 on the Fuse Box (left side of dash) and said that seems to take care of the problem but you are own your own if you want to experiment. Aside from losing all safety of ABS, you lose power steering. See description:

25Light switch -E1-
TCS and ESP button -E256-
Auto-hold button -E540-
ABS control unit -J104-
Power steering control unit -J500-
Control unit for electromechanical parking brake -J540-
I just picked up the car and had no place to test on the way home but I will try this tomorrow. 
I also lowered the boost (still on 100 octane fuel and tune) as it pushes as high as 29.9# if cool ambient in 4th gear. 
What I would really like is a boost on gear function. Again, the ECU is not liking boost control with this new turbo; it does not allow reliable control of the waste gate, thus the mechanical boost controller currently in place. Shop said they could come up with an electronic version mapped to each gear. Parts and tune around $1K off the top of their head pricing. 
But for now, I short-shift 1st at 6,000 RPM and a light feather of the pedal at 4,000 RPM in 2nd. 
Still amazed at the performance, even very light tip-in throttle in any gear.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

WILLCCU said:


> New set of problems....LOL! Traction Control can not be defeated by the push of the TC button. The TC button will help somewhat but if your able to annihilate the front tires, the TC will still engage. Shop data logged on the street using my Nitto 555 Drag Radials and at around 6000 RPM in 1st gear it starts spinning (TC button disengaged; off) enough that it drops ignition timing from WOT 18° to 6° and the throttle blade closes down. This also happens around 4,000 RPM in 2nd gear.
> Did some research here and apparently US Federal Law as of 2012 requires TC and its various versions to keep us from sliding into people and trees. I know some Makes / Models allow full disengagement but you have to work at it through various button pushing on multiple levels. Perhaps as the CC is not a “performance” model, there are more nannies that we can not easily mitigate. Anybody know better? I’m all ears.
> Shop did pull fuse #2 on the Fuse Box (left side of dash) and said that seems to take care of the problem but you are own your own if you want to experiment. Aside from losing all safety of ABS, you lose power steering. See description:
> 
> ...


DO NOT DO THIS!!! Almost impossible to steer even while moving forward. And if the front tires are not pointed 100% straight forward, you’ll steer into the next immovable object. And it still spins the tires. More so in fact. 
Working on a boost by gear system. 
Anybody even reading this...


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## kosmaras (Feb 27, 2016)

WILLCCU said:


> DO NOT DO THIS!!! Almost impossible to steer even while moving forward. And if the front tires are not pointed 100% straight forward, you’ll steer into the next immovable object. And it still spins the tires. More so in fact.
> Working on a boost by gear system.
> Anybody even reading this...


I'm still here!! Sorry I have not been responding much, but I have been reading about your journey.

That HPA R430 looks almost smaller than the IHI in some of those photos...kind of surprised to see that. New turbo looks great. Powerband looks good too....better than the R430, which is interesting. They had your R430 ramping up so late, which I don't think helped you much when you were running that turbo.

Regarding your T/C issues, that is interesting. I noticed my 2013 CC behaves the same with the T/C turned "off" and thought it was specific to my car because my previous 2012 didn't have this issue...but what you mention regarding a 2012 federal law change makes sense because that would mean the 2013 behaves differently than the 2012, which I've noticed.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Blew the down pipe off...CC is now in the shop again. Didn’t actually “blow” it off, the full 360° of weld from the pipe to the turbo flange completely separated. Truth is with the drag radials on it will hop when it normally spins so that’s pretty hard on things. Yes, I do let off if it hops. It was the HPA DP that has been on the car for maybe 80,000 miles? Welding it back together with a few gussets added for more strength. 
Working on TC with Boost by Gear hardware also. 
Glad kosmaras found out what was wrong with his CC TC. I’m just remembering maybe a year ago I was at the 1/4 mile drags and I learned how to do a burnout with the e-brake activated. I did the burnout and man, it did all sorts of wild things with the RPM so I didn’t do it again. Maybe that should have been a clue!


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Well now... that was NOT a full 360° weld around the downpipe from HPA. It was only spot welded in 8 positions as shown here:


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

It is now welded with gussets a full 360°. 
Waiting for this MaxxECUMini to arrive:








MaxxECU MINI


MaxxECU MINI




maxxecu.com




This will manage boost by RPM and gear. 
Won’t be in and tuned soon so I will go to 1/2 mile drag races March 26th. Should be interesting fighting tire spin.


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## VirgoPHD (Dec 12, 2014)

WILLCCU said:


> It is now welded with gussets a full 360°.
> Waiting for this MaxxECUMini to arrive:
> 
> 
> ...


Will this replace the existing ecu?


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Piggyback


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## VirgoPHD (Dec 12, 2014)

WILLCCU said:


> Piggyback


Who’s doing your tuning?


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Same place:




__





Dyno-Comp







dynocomp.shop-accelerator.com





Done in house to VW ECU. I have (2) ECU’s, I just swap 91 or 100 tunes. Takes about 90 seconds. I haven’t even tried the 91 tune for the Garrett turbo yet, having so much fun with the 100 tune! 1/2 mile race is tomorrow. Unfortunately, expected high temperature to be 97*
I’ll switch out to 91 tune after race. Can’t spend $9.79 a gallon forever!


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## Johnotis10 (Apr 2, 2012)

You must have a novel of receipts from all the work that has been done. Im guessing you are getting close to 75k to 100K in total cost including buying the car. My head is spinning thinking of the labor fees. Im waiting to see that you are actually enjoying the car not waiting for it to be out of the shop.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

I don’t save receipts! LOL
Right now I am thoroughly enjoying it. Finally where I’ve always wanted it. Raced a standard 3-series Tesla the other day from 65-100 and had it by an instant fender in 3rd and a little past that. I am borrowing my sons GoPro for tomorrows race and hopefully I can figure it out. I did buy a suction cup for it. I’ll post on YouTube.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

And I loved it with the K04. The downward spiral was when I bought that R430 turbo. So for everybody else, either K04 it or straight to GTX2867R Gen II turbo!


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

1st pass. Todays high temperature supposed to be 97*


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## Johnotis10 (Apr 2, 2012)

WILLCCU said:


> 1st pass. Todays high temperature supposed to be 97*


How about 1/4 mile time? Must have been pretty good at 134.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Later on 1/4 mile.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

They don’t break it down in increments, just 1/2 mile as shown on the ticket


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Passes today: (all on 100 octane fuel and ECU tune), 100% methanol with Snow Injection
1) 134.1682 @ 10:07 A.M. 50# air rear tires, Nitto 555R ’s 30#, single port Methanol injection start @ 4#, full by 12#
2) 132.5869 @ 10:58 A.M. Same as #1 but 18# front tires. 85° temperature. 26.3# peak boost shown. 
3) 132.4308 @ 11:58 A.M. Now back to 30# front tires. 26.9# peak boost shown. 6300 RPM in 4th
4) 132.0423 @ 12:50 P.M. Same but increase boost. Peak boost shown: 27.3#
5) 133.2938 @ 1:47 P.M. 93° temperature. 27.6 peak boost shown. Methanol at 4-port now, still activated @ 4# / full @ 12# 
6) 133.7693 @ 2:34 P.M 97° temperature. 26.5# peak boost shown. 

Average speed for the (6) runs: 133.04855 MPH. Previous best:127 MPH. I’d call that significantly better. Still have traction issues. I believe the meth may be too much but considering the ambient temps, it did make an immediate 1.25 MPH improvement between run #4 & #5. Picked up another .47 MPH between #5 & #6 by stretching the 3rd gear to about 7400 RPM instead of 7,000 RPM. It almost bogs from 3-4 shift all day (even with single port methanol and that’s a small .5 GPH nozzle). 
The change from 18# front tire air pressure was an attempt to alleviate that bog. 

Bought a GoPro Hero 8 as my son seems to have misplaced his  
I had a few runs mounted to drivers side front fender. It was an idea to hear turbo noises; failed as it was all wind noise and rocks getting kicked up. 
Then I placed it at drivers side rear by the exhaust tips. That sounded better. 
Then I tried an interior shot showing gauges but the GoPro battery died. I’m told you should have 2-3 of them with you. Now I know. 
Got home on low fuel. Now I can try the 91 tune.


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## kosmaras (Feb 27, 2016)

That Billy Boat exhaust sounds awesome...definitely on my list of future mods now.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

kosmaras said:


> That Billy Boat exhaust sounds awesome...definitely on my list of future mods now.


Here’s a shot of the Magnaflow muffler. BB exhaust still has a resonator and muffler. ZERO drone.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Here’s the piping built for the GTX2867R Gen II (.64 A/R) built by the crew at Dyno-Comp


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## kosmaras (Feb 27, 2016)

WILLCCU said:


> Here’s a shot of the Magnaflow muffler. BB exhaust still has a resonator and muffler. ZERO drone.
> View attachment 171444


So you added that additional Magnaflow muffler? How did the exhaust sound as it comes from BillyBoat?


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## kosmaras (Feb 27, 2016)

WILLCCU said:


> Here’s the piping built for the GTX2867R Gen II (.64 A/R) built by the crew at Dyno-Comp
> 
> View attachment 171445
> 
> View attachment 171446


that looks pretty good! I think they could have ditched that factory style coupler and made a straighter entry into the IC. I love the rubber on the fender liner


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

kosmaras said:


> So you added that additional Magnaflow muffler? How did the exhaust sound as it comes from BillyBoat?


It sounded great with the catalytic convertor in place. No drone even then. BB was added after the K04 install. In fact, they did a sound video but did not post it to their site because there was too much tire spinning going on. Never sounded “ricy”. When it was suggested to remove cat, they wanted to just remove it, said it would only be 10%-15% louder. I said no to that because I know i would not like it. Don’t like it when I hear it on the street or YouTube. So I said find a straight thru muffler to put in. In the end, I think it probably sounds better...a little deeper tone perhaps? I’ll work on an interior video. 
I have the 91 tune in. Definitely miss that extra 45 HP! But it’s still good with 335 WHP which puts it somewhere over 400 CHP. Still spins the Nitto’s, just not as much. I’m taking the drag radials off today and Michelin PSS go back on.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

It’s summertime in Arizona! But considering the ambient temperatures are currently around 108° to 115°, the CC still is a blast to drive!

Working with CFM Breathers Valve Cover Breathers - CFM Performance they have come up with a VW 2.0 TSI and whatever else they fit in the VW family.

I have put one of these on a few of my drivers and while I can’t say they all the sudden have an extra 20 HP, I do see better light tip-in throttle response. Under the theory that a boosted engine, especially a highly boosted engine like my CC (20# to 26# depending on 91 or 100 tune and weather), maybe this would offer something. So they built me one and sent it to me to evaluate. This replaces the oil cap with a filter. There is a check ball internally. This check ball allows crankcase pressure out, but keeps from sucking air through the filter back into the crankcase. 

Here’s what it does for me (after a few thousand miles now)
Better tip-in throttle. 
LESS oil consumption (I believe it is the VW crap oil rings as I have leaked down and compression tested several times each, no issues. And replaced guides in head twice).
I know longer smell oil after WOT and pulling to a stop.
No oil blow-by (filter is still clean). 
I think there is some power here also but I have a disdain for internet “Butt Dyno Sessions”. 
My P3 Gauges Stage II lost it’s smoke lens so it’s nearly impossible to video. I ordered a new left A/C vent which arrived yesterday. I have an RNA to P3 Gauges and they are fixing the issue (no charge even though many years old) and installing it in my new vent. Sent off today. 
I have a 0-60 MPH function along with 60-100 MPH (or is it 60-130 MPH? I forgot... that I will baseline with VW standard oil cap and then the CFM Breather / oil cap. I will time the high MPH as that will eliminate issues with traction and shifting. IAT will be the same on each run; allowing plenty of cool down. Eventually, in the fall, I will head back out to the 1/2 mile drags and get a solid number from the track timers.


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## snobrdrdan (Sep 10, 2008)

^^^


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Ah...but what price fun??? And surely someday I will sell it and hope and pray to get $7,500 for it!


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## snobrdrdan (Sep 10, 2008)

I can't believe all the parts and work you've put into the car, honestly. I applaud that.
I'm shocked at your numbers though....I would think your car would be a hell of a lot quicker


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

snobrdrdan said:


> I can't believe all the parts and work you've put into the car, honestly. I applaud that.
> I'm shocked at your numbers though....I would think your car would be a hell of a lot quicker


And what do you suggest it needs??? I know there’s HP in more tuning but I’ve been down that path before (different car) where “just a little more” turns into melted parts.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Probably in the “snake oil” category to most readers but I said “WTH” and bought a few sets of Brisk Spark Plugs. Standard ground electrode 2 steps colder than stock, 3 steps colder than stock and “multi spark” spark plugs in the -2 step colder than stock (DR08ZS). It was 108° outside when I changed out the NGK’s (.019” gap) and replaced them with the Brisk Multi-Sparks. There is no ground strap. Immediately noticed a difference and what never happens on the street with such high temps, tire spin in 2nd gear at 5,000 RPM. And that was without Methanol. 
Spark plug ceramic has a pair of rings installed and staggered. Spark is generated from the center electrode to the pair of rings and finally to the outer area of the body (obviously I don’t know the name here...). See website:




__





BRISK MULTI-SPARK PLUG | MULTI-SPARK SPARK PLUGS







www.briskusa.com




All I can say is tire spin where it would only do that with worn tires on a cool day. Doing this with near new Michelin Pilot Super Sports on 108° ambient temps is unreal. 
Bad thing is plugs are only good for about 15,000 miles and about $14 each from www.Summit.com. 
And I’ve never seen 110 MPH at top of 3rd gear before either. Usually about 108 MPH. Off road track testing of course... 

From 2011 thru 2015 I had a 2003 Focus SVT which I modified NA with pistons, rings, and head work. Car was a blast! This has the EAP package in Competition Orange. One of 301 built. Guy I sold it to called up a few weeks ago and offered it back to me but compression is dead on two cylinders and high oil use (he took out my engine and put a salvage engine in it). So I went from Phoenix to Edmon OK and picked it up. My gawd....I-40 in NW, TX and OK can put you to sleep! 842 miles each way. 
So here’s the new project:








You can’t go to New Mexico without at least one stop at Blakes LotaBurger!


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## snobrdrdan (Sep 10, 2008)

^^^
Nice! How many miles on the SVTF?
Looks SUPER clean!

_(I had a 2003 SVTF 4 door, in black, years ago)_


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## DannyDigital (Nov 22, 2004)

How's the breather after a few weeks? Still running it?


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Also, did get a new P3 Digital gauge. Out of warranty and they could not repair so they sold me a new unit for $50. Damn respectable company! When it cools down I will get video for ya’ll.


DannyDigital said:


> How's the breather after a few weeks? Still running it?


Yes I am. I think it makes a difference.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

snobrdrdan said:


> ^^^
> Nice! How many miles on the SVTF?
> Looks SUPER clean!
> 
> _(I had a 2003 SVTF 4 door, in black, years ago)_


204,000! And if you were here looking at it and I told you 75,000 miles (except drivers seat), you would believe it.


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## snobrdrdan (Sep 10, 2008)

WILLCCU said:


> 204,000! And if you were here looking at it and I told you 75,000 miles (except drivers seat), you would believe it.


Oh wow...I would've NEVER guessed that many! It looks clean

All the SVTF's here, in Ford land (Michigan), are usually all rusted up before seeing that mileage LOL


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

If anybody is interested, the BRISK multi-spark plug is DR08ZS.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

WILLCCU said:


> And what do you suggest it needs??? I know there’s HP in more tuning but I’ve been down that path before (different car) where “just a little more” turns into melted parts.


Just got home from the drag strip. Track Elevation: 1,250 +/-. Density Altitude: 4000 +/-. Temperature 86°+. Humidity: 60%. Yea, pretty crappy. Traps at 7,000 RPM in 3rd. Had 100 octane and 100 octane ECU. But for the 1st (4) passes, I only had 21+/- # of boost. Then as I came down the return road, I said “hey stupid...forgot to increase the boost for the good tune!” Increased to 27# and then 28#. Best ET is now 13.77 @ 109.54 MPH. That MPH, in a real race car, would be a 12.05 ET. I had my drag radials on, eventide a few passes doing a pretty decent FWD burnout. Best pass had some tire spin. This car is just impossible to get a good 60’ time (on best pass it was 2.38 seconds), most of the good passes were between 2.38 and 2.39. I’m not going to make a 6000 RPM launch and break axles either. 
I was very happy to get it deep into the 13’s and that’s a pretty good MPH in my book (almost +7 MPH over previous best with KO4). 
1/2 mile drags are in 3-weeks. October 15th.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

!/2 mile drags Gila Bend, AZ today. 100 octane fuel / meth injection / 100 octane tune. Nitto 555 Drag Radials. No spare tire. 50 PSI air in rear tires. 
Previous best MPH: 134.? 
1st pass was 135.62. 27.1# boost. Traction Control (TC) off. 
#2: 133.45 TC off, spun bad. 
#3: 135.78 TC off 28.7# boost.
After: Replaced Brisk heat range #8 ground strap spark plugs w/ Brisk #8 heat range surface gap / multi-spark plugs. Dropped front tires to 28# from 32#. 
#4: 136.69 TC off 28.3# Boost.
#5: 137.19 TC Off 26.7# boost.
#6: 139.57 Did burnout TC off 29.6# boost. 
#7: 141.50 28.6# boost. 
#8: 141.95 28.6# boost. Hood open to safety latch. Yes, you read that right. 
#9: 142.67 Hood same as above. 

Starting w/ run #7, I was letting it cool down about 1 hour between runs. I also cranked up the heat to Hi to pull heat out of coolant (occasionally start engine to rotate the coolant) with goal >160°, but this still keeps oil temp hot. And the hood? I got that tip from a drag race crew chief on an impressive team. I shook, twisted, yanked and I was convinced hood would not fly open (it did not; but kinda scary!). Would be cool (?) to vent the hood at CAI inlet. 

Oh...still crap air. Density altitude for this 800’+/- airport runway was 3200’+/- all day. Low-mid 80’s temp, 52% humidity, 85 grains water. 
Need to find a sea level cool temp track. They also run a 1/2 mile event in California. May have to take a trip in the Fall. I think with those conditions could see 145 MPH? 

Notes: The C-f-M breather; Started to not stay tight and would loosen all the way from the valve cover. I found a large rubber fender washer 1/8” thick that fit the OD and ID but too thick. Couldn’t find 1/16” thick. To install, I used a channel lock plier pushing downward and rotating. I slightly crushed the aluminum and now the check valve does not operate freely, so I put the stock oil fill cap on for now. Will discuss with C-F-M next week. 
The MSD coils I had? Two things and I can’t prove one way or the other. I was running those surface gap / multi-spark plugs on the street (#10 heat range). Got a code P3004 cylinder misfire #4. 
Put #4 coil on #3, then P3003 misfire so the coil was bad. Bought a Bosh and used it. Then same thing on P3002. By now I had ordered new VW OEM Coils. So down (2) MSD coils in two days. I’m of the opinion MSD China parts ain’t what MSD Texas used to be. However, in MSD’s defense, a no ground strap spark plug can put a higher demand on a coil so possible the spark plug caused the problem with the coils? I called Brisk and ran that by them and he agreed; either scenario could be right. So my conclusion is I will run Brisk ground strap plugs w/ .019” gap for the street. Now the next thing I did was go from $10 heat range to a COLDER #8 heat range. This is probably 3 heat ranges colder than OEM? I feel that is a good move on any brand spark plug with this amount of boost. I was not expecting a .91 MPH increase after changing to a different style plug. But previously, 1st time w/ Brisk ground strap plugs over NGK plugs, I went .75 MPH faster. That was a #10 heat range (hotter). 
I now have 91 octane fuel and ECU in the car, Drag Radials come off tomorrow and take out the race plugs tomorrow also. I have 91 tune with around 23# boost in cooler air. 
Lastly, there was a modified Ferrari 360 Modena there. We kept trying to race but twice somebody took cuts in line to get next to him. He would trap in 5th gear around 8,000 RPM and his best MPH was 134. And my buddies Hellcat Challenger was going 150 MPH. So I can say I am happy with it all now.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Ticket:









Brisk plugs I arrived in #8 heat range .019” gap









Box for Multi Spark #8 Heat range









Gila Bend, AZ runway @ end of the day. Most cars gone by now. It was packed earlier.


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## WILLCCU (Oct 26, 2015)

Replaced restrictive Downpipe adapter flange with V-Band. 1st picture is Downpipe side. 
















On 91 octane before work made 322.4 HP / 302.5 TQ. This was day before V-Band addittion. Previous dyno run with same tune was 335 HP. Different day and that’s how it works sometimes. 
After V-Band 339.3 HP / 297.9 TQ. No other adjustments. That’s 16.9 HP increase. And better yet, the peak boost numbers stay longer. 
Took off the 5” O.D. air filter for a -2 HP loss. 
Added boost from 22# to 24# and also lost a few HP but picked up some TQ. 
Let's see what happens 11/12/2022 at 1/4 mile drag races. 
Just announced last 1/2 mile race for the year: 12/18/2022. It will be MUCH cooler than last outing!!! Could be 20° cooler? Let's hope! 
Racing is on 100 octane. 
The amount of tire spin w/ TC off starting at 5,000 RPM in 1st and 2nd gear is outrageous!


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