# HKS SSQV flutter



## Red MK4_GLI (Dec 25, 2007)

I posted this in the 1.8t forum but wasn't getting much help. 
Don't tell me to get rid of it and buy a DV. I dont care what you say. I know everyones opinion on a BOV on our cars, and it was my choice. I had a Forge 007 wannabe on the car, and I decided to go with an HKS SSQV because when I go BT Im going to run Mafless, and it was for a great price from another member on here.
I installed the BOV, and started her up. No check engine lights, boost gauge reacts normal (19 vacuum at idle, between 5-10 cruising, reaches full boost normally, etc)
I didnt get on it at first, stayed out of boost till I got out of the neighborhood keeping an eye on the CEL. Nothing. Pulled out, and got on it a little bit. Took it to maybe 3 grand, 5-10psi (not flooring it obviously) released the gas to shift, and the BOV reacted as expected. Decided to take a nice little run up to 5 grand pretty much WOT for 2nd gear, shifted to third, and I got the high pitched whistle, plus a **** load of flutter that sounded like it was coming from the intake. It DOES NOT do this under light acceleration (all the time. Sometimes it will, but its not very loud if I keep the boost low). If I keep the boost low, and shift below 3K RPMS or so, it makes the whistle, with (almost) no flutter. It only does this (all the time) under WOT
How would I make this stop? Taking it to 5-10 psi and shifting around 3-4 grand its not as loud as I thought it would be, as though its not releasing all the air in the charge piping.
Im wondering if I always had the flutter and just didn't notice it before because of the deeper sound of the 007 opposed to the high pitched noise of the HKS. Once again, they are NOT the same noise and sound as though they're coming from different areas. You hear the BOV then you hear a separate, deeper flutter of air for less than a second coming from the driver side of the car


----------



## syracusegli (Jan 22, 2005)

*FV-QR*

check vacuum lines


----------



## Red MK4_GLI (Dec 25, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (syracusegli)*

So you think the problem might be vacuum related? I guess it would make sense....when I installed it I had to extend the stock vacuum line with some line from Auto Zone and to be honest I didn't buy the best ****. Its "Vacuum/Windshield Washer Line". Im wondering if maybe its too weak and its collapsing under vacuum when the valve opens, so the valve doesn't open all the way. Does this sound possible?
Also, I used a couple brass barb fittings (different sizes, because the stock line is a wider ID than the new hose and the nipple on the BOV) and I connected them together with a coupler. This is how I extended the old vacuum line, and the barb fitting for the stock hose didn't quite fit right (a little too small) so I used a clamp on it, and I wouldn't think its leaking but the barb can turn freely inside the hose, although it doesn't pull out, so maybe I have a small vacuum leak? 
Would either of these cause what im seeing? Ill address these two issues and get back to this, and ill try and take pictures of the install and a video of the sound if I can. Any other input would be great


----------



## epjetta (Sep 19, 2006)

*Re: HKS SSQV flutter (Red MK4_GLI)*

check all your boost tubes to make sure you have no leaks. did you reach full boost?


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: HKS SSQV flutter (Red MK4_GLI)*

The second portion of the valve is not opening. Check to make sure that none of your lines are getting hot or hanging over the manifold


----------



## Dreadz (Sep 20, 2006)

*Re: HKS SSQV flutter (KubotaPowered)*

I had the same problem with the same bov it was a cheap vac line that crimped because of the heat or it could be a ripped line


----------



## 206danebmx (May 16, 2001)

*Re: HKS SSQV flutter (Dreadz)*

lighter spring for the bov?


----------



## Red MK4_GLI (Dec 25, 2007)

Can you buy lighter springs for this BOV?
I took the BOV off, and took it as far apart as I could (which wasnt very far). I took the front portion off, and couldnt get the back off because I dont have a pair of C ring pliers to get the flange mount apart from the BOV, and the flange is in the way of the bottom two allen bolts for the back cover.
Anyway, with this, I pushed the purple (primary) valve in, and it was rather hard to push. It goes in, but uses some effort, to the point that the tip of it hurt my fingers when I pushed it all the way in. Also, the black valve with the "Sequential Blow Off Valve" writing on it (secondary) was kind of stuck to the primary. I pulled them apart, and now they separate. I put it all back together, put it back on, checked my connections, vacuum lines, etc, put it back together, took it for a drive, and its still doing it, although it doesnt seem to do it at lower boost levels anymore, just higher boost levels, and at lower boost levels the valve doesnt seem as loud as I imagined it would still.
Im starting to wonder if maybe its not surge, because it doesnt sound like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MfsD-6_Dp58
Similar sound, but not exactly the same and not nearly as long. Only does it for maybe half a second. The only things I can think of now are the spring is too tight, or the vacuum line is crimping under vacuum or heat, but I checked all the lines and the thing should be good to go. I dont get it...
EDIT: It sounds a lot like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-PsebphGe6w
at 0:34


_Modified by Red MK4_GLI at 9:20 AM 11-10-2009_


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (Red MK4_GLI)*

Vac leaks can be hard to trace. The SSQV isn't adjustable, only the race valves are. Try pressure testing or performing a smoke test on the whole intake side of the engine to look for leaks. Also the SSQV uses a small vac line, are you using the stock vac line running to the valve or did you step it down


_Modified by KubotaPowered at 9:29 AM 11-10-2009_


----------



## Red MK4_GLI (Dec 25, 2007)

*Re: (KubotaPowered)*

I used the stock line from the vac nipple from the vacuum system to where it hooked up to the stock DV, then I purchased some smaller (same size the HKS takes) vacuum line to run from the end of the stock vacuum hose to the HKS. I connected the two with these:








both different sizes, and a coupler to have the two facing opposing directions. The smaller barb fitting that I bought fits into the aftermarket vacuum hose nicely...nice and tight so I dont need a clamp. The bigger barb fitting I bought for the stock hose Im wondering if it might be too small because it slid in snug, but could be pulled off easier and I had to put a clamp on it to keep it on there. I tightened the **** out of it, and its not going anywhere, but that doesnt mean its not leaking. I cant remember the sizes I bought but the barb fitting for the aftermarket hose was the smallest they had, and the one for the stock hose was a step up. I may try going a step bigger and seeing if it fits better.
Ill go outside and take some pics of how I have it setup and post them up on here.


----------



## Red MK4_GLI (Dec 25, 2007)

*Re: (Red MK4_GLI)*

EDIT: I guess maybe I should list other mods.
-GHL CAI
-GIAC X Software
-Autometer Cobalt Boost/Vacuum Gauge
Thats it...
Heres my setup
BOV








This shows where the stock hose connects to the aftermarket (smaller) house and what I did there. Also shows plug in intake securely in place








This shows how the vacuum tubing runs over the turbo. Not ideal I know, could be causing the problem but not sure how else to run it where it wont get heated








Back side of blow off valve








Very thick tubing, so Im not sure if its crimping under vacuum or not. I wouldnt think so...








Tubing I used...








This is as far as I can get it to collapse under medium effort. I could have squeezed harder...this was also on the end where its easier to make it collapse. Toward the middle it doesnt bend as easy










_Modified by Red MK4_GLI at 10:38 AM 11-10-2009_


----------



## Red MK4_GLI (Dec 25, 2007)

Do you think maybe this could be the problem? This is a pretty drastic bend in the tubing that runs from the charge pipe to the flange inlet. What if I did away with the mount that came with this thing and ran a straight tube from the charge pipe to the flange, and just kind of had it sitting there? This is only temporary until I get a FMIC, then Im welding a flange to it a lot further down toward the IC


----------



## Red MK4_GLI (Dec 25, 2007)

Anyone see anything wrong with my setup that could be causing this?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrEtW7uBVWc
Theres a video I took of whats going on


_Modified by Red MK4_GLI at 5:50 PM 11-10-2009_


----------



## Jeraho19 (Apr 26, 2007)

*Re: (Red MK4_GLI)*

That bend you have in that heater hose is causing that flutter.


----------



## 206danebmx (May 16, 2001)

*Re: (Jeraho19)*

Yeah that bend could be it, you could put a 90 silicone piece in there from here (siliconeintakes.com)
That is also exactly what mine sounded like before I put a softer spring in my tial bov. It would make that sound all the time unless I was at like 10+ psi.


----------



## epjetta (Sep 19, 2006)

*Re: (Red MK4_GLI)*

that bov could be placed better. like right onto a boost tube like its designed to be used. that small hose will be too restrictive for the bov to work properly. it needs to be in a different spot for sure.


----------



## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (epjetta)*

Agree with the heater hose causing the problem. Weld on a bung straight to the charge pipe and eliminate the hose altogether. ATP has the bung you would need


----------

