# Wilwood Dynalite II bridge bolt part number



## Wayne92SLC (Mar 1, 2001)

Anyone know the part number (or where to order the part) so I can convert from the cotter pin to the bridge bolt? I have Wilwood Billet Dynalite II's (120-5005) like most eveyone else with Wilwoods.
Thanks!
-Wayne


----------



## doN_R6 (Sep 6, 2000)

*Re: Wilwood Dynalite II bridge bolt part number (Wayne92SLC)*

yea, i'd like to know too. i have a set of wilwood calipers too and i'm hearing some nasty creaking noises. 
does anybody have a pic of the cotter pin? i have no idea how it looks.
bump


----------



## Wayne92SLC (Mar 1, 2001)

*Re: Wilwood Dynalite II bridge bolt part number (doN_R6)*

It's kinda hard to see in this picture, but the cotter pins just go through all the small holes in the caliper and brake pads. When assembled, the ends of the pin stick out about 1/2". Fold them over and that's it. Amazing that it's able to hold up, but I guess there's no forces in radial direction (except when you hit a bump in the road or something...)








I lied--here's a pretty good one of the cotter pin. The pads aren't in the caliper, but you get the idea. This is for a system I designed for my Saturn SC2.








See ya,
-Wayne


----------



## Wayne92SLC (Mar 1, 2001)

*Re: Wilwood Dynalite II bridge bolt part number (doN_R6)*

What pads are you using? Could the creaking noise be pad compoud related? I've heard that there are a lot of Wilwood Polymatrix pads that are really dusty and noisy. 
I have a few sets to try out: D, T, and Q. I guess the Q pads are the quietest and lowest dust of the group with good cold grip, so they should be good for the street.
See ya,
-Wayne


----------



## PhOO (May 23, 2000)

*Re: Wilwood Dynalite II bridge bolt part number (Wayne92SLC)*

me three.. i want these bolts.. i keep calling RPI (where i purchased the 13" kit from) but they never return my calls.. total BS. also i want to put some saftey wire on the bolts that hold the rotor to the rotor hat.. i had one of thoes suckers come out on me already


----------



## Wayne92SLC (Mar 1, 2001)

*Re: Wilwood Dynalite II bridge bolt part number (PhOO)*

I haven't had my system on the car yet, but I did use Loc-tite 272 (high strength and high temp) on the rotor-to-hat bolts and safety wired them as well.








I just got a reply back from Wilwood tech support, but they didn't cough up a whole lot of information.
Me: "I have a question regarding upgrading from the standard cotter pin Billet Dynalite II caliper to the bridge bolt. I've heard of some guys ordering the bridge bolt kit and then milling a notch in the backing plates of their current pads (realizing that there are pads available with the notch). Is this true? If so, can I order the part from you guys direct? My calipers are 120-5005's."
Wilwood Tech Support: "Wayne, We do have bridge bolt available for the NDL calipers, which will work on the Dynalite, providing you redrill the hole for a 1/4 inch bolt. you are right about the pads."
So....throw me a bone, man! I've seen bridge bolt kits for Wilwood calipers (Superlight, not Dynalite), and you have to specify the thickness of the rotors that you're using. Makes sense. Looks like the kits are running for about $15. I will reply to Wilwood again, however, and ask for the part number. Kinda sucks that you have to drill out the cotter pin holes though. Those calipers are so pretty, I don't want to even put them on the car!
I'll let you know what I find out.
-Wayne


----------



## M this 1! (May 17, 2000)

*Re: Wilwood Dynalite II bridge bolt part number (Wayne92SLC)*

i did the upgrade right before i sold my car. was curious and didn't want an uphappy new owner wondering what the hell the noise was. by the way, NO pad or grease will cure the problem. it's purely the pistons pushing the caliper apart, but creaking occurs instead of failure. it's a very easy job to do, you won't even notice you drilled anything. you end up with an allen head instead of seeing the loop end of the cotterpin. the hardest part is cutting the pads. not only do they need to clear the 1/4" bolt, but also the aluminum sleeve that "bridges" the caliper plates together. but once bolted down tight, the caliper made NO noise and had a nicer pedal feel. to speed up the job, cut the pad in a 90 degree'd U instead of a rounded bottom U. it's ugly, but you can't see it when it's on the car.


----------



## Wayne92SLC (Mar 1, 2001)

*Re: Wilwood Dynalite II bridge bolt part number (M this 1!)*

Thanks for the info!
Do you recall the part number of the kit? Was it the same as the one used for the Superlight?
-Wayne


----------



## M this 1! (May 17, 2000)

*Re: Wilwood Dynalite II bridge bolt part number (Wayne92SLC)*

once you give them them the caliper number AND rotor thickness, they (at Wilwood) can quickly do the rest. don't have the paperwork anymore, sorry


----------



## rensho (Jan 21, 2002)

*Re: Wilwood Dynalite II bridge bolt part number (M this 1!)*

Wayne, what bolt pattern are those hats? Do you know the hat offset? looks small like 1". I'm looking for a setup for my miata, and need something shallow, like 1"
As well, what size are the rotors?
Did you fab those caliper spacers? they look great.
Why don't you just buy the bolt/nut and cut an aluminum sleeve yourself? Seems pretty easy to replace that cotter pin. A racer friend did it on his GT3 car just as i described.


----------



## Wayne92SLC (Mar 1, 2001)

*Re: Wilwood Dynalite II bridge bolt part number (rensho)*

The bolt pattern is 4 X 100. It was the main reason I went with the Integra/Civic kit. I just tossed the caliper adapters and designed up my own in CADKEY. My brother-in-law has a small benchtop CNC machine and he took the CAD file and ran it through his tool path application and POOF! I had them anodized black and then pressed in the steel nut inserts (after painting them black). I don't know if I mentioned this or not, but this brake kit is for my Saturn not my Corrado. I absolutely hate the stock brakes on the Saturn, so I decided to do something about it. I'll be going through all the same exercises for a kit for the Corrado (except I'll probably stick with the stock 280mm rotors while I still have the stock 15" BBS's)
I checked my CAD drawing on the hat and it's 0.452". As Wilwood defines it: from the hub mating surface to the outboard rotor surface. The rotor diameter is 12.2" and 0.81" thick.
Yeah, I should just do it myself. My dad has a small machine shop, my brother in law has a slightly larger machine shop and a manage the one here at work. I think I just felt guilty blackmailing my machinist for yet another car part. 
I'll definitely be boring the 1/4" holes in the caliper on the vertical mill as well as milling the bridge bolt slots in the "cotter pin" pads. 
Let me know if you need any more info on the kit. Wilwood has an awesome tech support staff and some really good documentation on all their stuff as well. Check out the wheel clearance for the Integra/Civic kit I bought--that may be useful if you're thinking about retro-fitting your own kit.
http://www.wilwood.org/ds375.pdf


----------



## Wayne92SLC (Mar 1, 2001)

*Re: Wilwood Dynalite II bridge bolt part number (Wayne92SLC)*

Well, I think I finally got somewhere with the bridge bolt gig.
I got a response back from Wilwood tech support:
"There is no bridge bolt kit for the Dynalite II, but you can purchase the individual parts required. 
230-2918 Bolt $1.43
300-3211 Spacer Tube $5.93
230-3214 Nut $1.35"
Cool--well, while I was waiting for the reply, I bought a kit that said it was for the Dynalite II/III. Pretty close. The black anodized aluminum tube is the same, but the bolt was too short and there was no nut. Oh well, the tube was the part I really wanted. I figured out the bolt length that would be necessary and went to the hardware store and got 2 stainless steel socket head cap screws (1/4-20 X 3" long) and 2 nuts (1/4-20) and 2 washers (#12--the 1/4 were a little sloppy). I brought the calipers in to work today and drilled clearance holes where the cotter pin holes were. I used a 17/64" bit which is the size used for a close clearance fit. It drilled really nice and the cotter pin hole acted as a perfect pilot hole for the 17/64" bit. Then I set up the pads in the vise of the vertical mill and used a 25/64" end mill to make room for the 3/8" diameter spacer tube. Went pretty smooove.
Check out the pics.
























































































-Wayne


[Modified by Wayne92SLC, 11:25 AM 1-10-2003]


----------



## PhOO (May 23, 2000)

*Re: Wilwood Dynalite II bridge bolt part number (Wayne92SLC)*

I just talked to wilwood and got the part numbers for all the people with the RPI 13" brake kit to upgrade to having bridge bolts:
230-2917 Bolt
230-2918 Nut
300-3212 Tube
price is around $20 for everything


----------



## Wayne92SLC (Mar 1, 2001)

*Re: Wilwood Dynalite II bridge bolt part number (PhOO)*

I wonder why the part numbers are different than what they old me? Strange...


----------



## PhOO (May 23, 2000)

*Re: Wilwood Dynalite II bridge bolt part number (Wayne92SLC)*

the calipers with the 13" kit are thicker so they need longer bolts and tubes


----------



## Wayne92SLC (Mar 1, 2001)

*Re: Wilwood Dynalite II bridge bolt part number (PhOO)*

Ahhh...it all makes sense now. Thanks!
-Wayne


----------

