# VW Routan - Battery Holder, Battery Life and OEM Lug Nuts



## Chedman13 (May 30, 2012)

*Kindly asking for forum member help to take a picture of your Routan car battery on how it's being secured/held down.*

My previous VW dealership did not replace it and didn't realize I've been driving without it, there is clearly a screw on the side (toward engine) for something to go, and a hole on the other side (towards driver, not a screw, just a hole). I've had no issues for 1.5 years, but clearly not safe.

I found this picture online, and believe it's #2 that I need (~$8). The #3 is a screw M8x1.25x40 which is ~$9 (can get much cheaper at hardware store). Doesn't seem that secure either way, as there is no tie-down from the top, but it is what it is.

From 2011 (OEM battery), changed battery in 2013 (OEM battery) to now 2015 (Autozone Duracell Platinum). I'm not getting great life out of these so trying an aftermarket.

Also, my local dealership stripped some of my lug nuts and found the 2011-on lug nuts are significantly cheaper than the pre-2011 ones and they are all cone seat so they should work. They are slightly different though as a heads-up. The 2011-on are 7B0-601-141 (~$1.74) and the pre are 7B0-601-143A (~$6.55).

These are stainless steel and for alloy wheels only (not steel wheels, which is part number 7B0-601-143 ~$8).

If you change your wheels a lot, be sure to make sure to only use a 19mm socket vs. a 3/4" - it is a very small difference but you can tell the difference in the "play" and can cause extra stress, especially if you use (or someone else) uses an impact wrench. I could be wrong, but I'm guessing the "M" stamped on the top could be for metric. There is an I on the bottom too, not sure what that is. But if you have these markings, you know you have OEM lug nuts.

*If anyone knows of any good lug nut removal tools for 19mm/3/4" let me know. * I'd rather not go back to the dealership and have them use impact tools again.


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## rmilchman (May 13, 2008)

My '11 has the original battery, which I don't think is unusual. Not sure why you would be on your third.


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## kptaylor (Apr 7, 2001)

My 2011 is on its third battery. The Chrysler/Dodge/Routans had computer issues where the fuel relay is soldered inside the ECU (or TIPM as Chrysler calls them) and these regularly fail. Symptoms include hard starting, stalling and excessive battery drain. Our van is at the VW dealer right now with them diagnosing the issue. They replaced the fuel pump twice before they decided to listen and check the ignition switch (some recalls on that depending on year) and the TIPM. We'll see if they can track it down!


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## Chedman13 (May 30, 2012)

kptaylor said:


> My 2011 is on its third battery. The Chrysler/Dodge/Routans had computer issues where the fuel relay is soldered inside the ECU (or TIPM as Chrysler calls them) and these regularly fail. Symptoms include hard starting, stalling and excessive battery drain. Our van is at the VW dealer right now with them diagnosing the issue. They replaced the fuel pump twice before they decided to listen and check the ignition switch (some recalls on that depending on year) and the TIPM. We'll see if they can track it down!


Sounds like my issue - let me know if they find a solution. Thanks for posting.


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## kptaylor (Apr 7, 2001)

Chedman13 said:


> Sounds like my issue - let me know if they find a solution. Thanks for posting.


Sorry for the delayed update. They wound up replacing the ignition switch but not the TIPM. No issues for the first two weeks, but my wife wasn't able to start the van the other day until the 5th key turn... Debating whether to go back to the dealer for the third time or try a Chrysler dealer. Not sure the Chrysler dealer can reflash the new TIPM with VW software, though.


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## routan2010se (Jun 17, 2013)

Unless something has changed, do not bother with the Chrysler dealer, the computer systems are different and coded to lock each other out.

You are stuck with a VW dealer.


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