# Maintenance for the 2.5



## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

To be perfectly honest, my 2012 has been somewhat unreliable since I've owned it which has been surprising since it has low kms and the general reliability stories of the 2.5. I bought it in 2016 at 50,000kms on the clock. I've had dealership oil changes every ~6000kms since I've owned it and I've just hit 80,000kms. 

Aside from an oil change, what would be some good maintenance things to do as spring is coming up? Sparks and coils? Transmission flush?


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## Reflex 2.5 (Dec 15, 2012)

Automatic or manual? If automatic, you’re due for trans service (drain and fill).


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

Reflex 2.5 said:


> Automatic or manual? If automatic, you’re due for trans service (drain and fill).


Thanks, I will get that done...but ouch. Dealership wants $500 for that :banghead:


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## afawal2014 (Jul 13, 2016)

Reflex 2.5 said:


> Automatic or manual? If automatic, you’re due for trans service (drain and fill).


Proper procedure for the 6 speed auto non-dsg is to drop the pan, clean it, change the filter, put everything back together and then fill.

What sort of reliability issues have you been having?

What maintenance have you done to date?


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## Reflex 2.5 (Dec 15, 2012)

afawal2014 said:


> Proper procedure for the 6 speed auto non-dsg is to drop the pan, clean it, change the filter, put everything back together and then fill.
> 
> What sort of reliability issues have you been having?
> 
> What maintenance have you done to date?


We don’t do the filters anymore, unless requested…


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

afawal2014 said:


> Proper procedure for the 6 speed auto non-dsg is to drop the pan, clean it, change the filter, put everything back together and then fill.
> 
> What sort of reliability issues have you been having?
> 
> What maintenance have you done to date?


Just routine oil changes and a coolant flush @ 65K

Front sway bar links have been replaced. I've also replaced the Valve Cover and MAP sensor ( MAP 3 times ) , and cleaned out the TB/Intake Manifold ( 3 times ) + software update - but that was due to a persistent P0106 code.

Headlights have also both stopped working. Replaced switch as per research but that didn't help. Tried new bulbs, still not working.

Oil Pan/Block heater ( don't know which one it has ) also doesn't work anymore as of ~1 month ago. Not worried about that until next winter though.


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## afawal2014 (Jul 13, 2016)

- You're probably overdue on your plugs. I believe they are supposed to be done @ 64,000 kms
- Some dealers may tell you that the transmission is a lifetime oil - that's what I was told by multiple dealers when I lived in Toronto
- Make sure you're doing your engine and cabin air filters as well.

I'm surprised you've had as many issues with such a low mileage vehicle.

With regards to your headlights, is it just the Daytime Running Lights (DRL's) or just no headlights at all? How about high beams?


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## kieran123 (Feb 2, 2017)

afawal2014 said:


> - You're probably overdue on your plugs. I believe they are supposed to be done @ 64,000 kms
> - Some dealers may tell you that the transmission is a lifetime oil - that's what I was told by multiple dealers when I lived in Toronto
> - Make sure you're doing your engine and cabin air filters as well.
> 
> ...


DRLs, high beams and fogs work fine. Just the headlights. I'm away for 3 weeks on vacation, so Ill worry about it when I get back

Car has been disappointing for sure especially with the low kms

When I get back, I'll have them do trans and oil change and look at my headlights. I will do sparks/coils and filters myself (dealer wants $400 for sparks/coils hahaha)


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## Reflex 2.5 (Dec 15, 2012)

afawal2014 said:


> - You're probably overdue on your plugs. I believe they are supposed to be done @ 64,000 kms
> - Some dealers may tell you that the transmission is a lifetime oil - that's what I was told by multiple dealers when I lived in Toronto
> - Make sure you're doing your engine and cabin air filters as well.
> 
> ...


Cabin filter- 20k miles/~30k km
Engine filter- 40k miles/~65k km
Trans service- 50k miles/~80k km
Plugs and coils- 80k miles/130k km


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## Ronny Bensys (Apr 17, 2014)

kieran123 said:


> (dealer wants $400 for sparks/coils hahaha)


AFAIK there is no regular service interval for the coil pack. You don't have to replace them but yes, the plugs should be changed. You're overdue on the transmission service. You should've it serviced at 64,000 kms.

Service at 40,000 miles:
● AdBlue Fluid: Check and add if necessary (3.0L TDI engine only) 
● Airbag System: Perform visual inspection (Every 1 year regardless of mileage) 
● Battery: Check (and second battery if applicable) 
● Body: Visual inspection for corrosion 
● Brakes: Inspect brake system and shock absorber for leaks and damage, check thickness of brake pads, brake disc condition and check brake fluid level 
● Convertible roof, CSC roof, and retractable hard top: Check for function and damage, clean and lubricate seals (if applicable) 
● Coolant level and frost protection: Check 
● Convertible roof: Check latch: (if applicable) (Every 2 years regardless of mileage) 
● CV joints: Check for leaks and damage 
● Door checks and mounting pins: Lubricate 
● Dust and pollen filter: Replace (if applicable) (Every 2 years regardless of mileage) 
● Engine: Change oil and replace oil filter 
● Engine and engine compartment components: Check (from above) for leaks and damage 
● Engine and engine compartment components: Check (from below) for leaks and damage, check transmission, final drive, and drive shaft boots 
● Exhaust system: Check for leaks, damage and secure fittings 
● Fuel filter: Replace (2.0L TDI and 3.0L TDI only) 
● Headlights, daytime running lights, curve lighting, and automatic headlights: Check adjustment 
● Hybrid components: Perform a visual inspection of high voltage components and the lines in the engine compartment and the rear of the vehicle for damage 
● Interior lighting and glove box lights, cigarette lighter / power outlets, horn, and all warning lamps: Check 
● Lighting: Front and rear lights, luggage compartment lighting, turn signals, hazard warning lights: Check 
● Power steering: Check oil level 
● Rear window: Check cleaning nozzle functionality (if applicable) 
● Ribbed V-belt: Check condition 
● Service interval display: Reset (if applicable) 
● Service sticker: Enter the date of the next service on the service sticker and apply to the driver's side door pillar 
● Spark plugs: Replace (2.0L MPI only) 
● Spark plugs: Replace (2.5L only) 
● Sunroof and panoramic sunroof: Check, clean, and lubricate (if applicable) 
● Sunroof: Open sunroof and check front water drains and clean if necessary (if applicable) 
● Test drive: Check braking, kick-down, steering, electrical, heating and ventilation systems, air conditioning, and handling 
● Tie rod ends: Check for excessive play, check boots 
● Tires: Check tread depth, condition, tire age, wear pattern and pressure of all tires (including spare) 
● Tires: Rotate front to rear 
● Tire mobility kit: Check and observe expiration date on the tire filler bottle (Every 2 years regardless of mileage) 
● Tire mobility kit: Replace tire filler bottle (Every 4 years regardless of mileage) 
● Transmission: DSG (non automatic): Change fluid and filter 
● Underbody sealant: Inspect for damage 
● Windshield washers, headlight cleaning system, and wiper blades: Check for damage and function, Check fluid level and add if necessary


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## Ronny Bensys (Apr 17, 2014)

Service at 50,000 miles:
● AdBlue Fluid: Check and add if necessary (3.0L TDI engine only) 
● Airbag System: Perform visual inspection (Every 1 year regardless of mileage) 
● Brake Pads: Check thickness and brake disc condition (front and rear) 
● Brake fluid: Change fluid (Touareg, Eos, Passat models, Jetta models, GTI, Golf, Tiguan, and CC) (Every 3 years regardless of mileage and every 2 years after) 
● Engine: Change oil and replace oil filter 
● Hybrid Components: Perform a visual inspection of high voltage components and the lines in the engine compartment and the rear of the vehicle for damage 
● Rear Window: Check cleaning nozzle functionality (if applicable) 
● Service Interval Display: Reset 
● Service Label: Enter the date of the next service on the service sticker and apply to the driver side door pillar 
● Tires: Rotate front to rear 
● Transmission: Automatic (non DSG): Change fluid (all 2.5L, 2.0L MPI only) 
● Windshield Washer, Headlight Cleaning System, and Wiper Blades: Check for damage and function, Check fluid level and add if necessary


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## afawal2014 (Jul 13, 2016)

Reflex 2.5 said:


> Plugs and coils- 80k miles/130k km


Spark plugs definitely cannot be in that long. No more than 40k miles as Ronny Bensys mentions in his list below.
40k miles, or 64k kms.

I do mine every 60k, and they are ready for replacement.

For your transmission, I would do the full filter and fluid change.


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## SNS1938 (Jan 13, 2014)

Now I read all this, it reminds me that I'm due some things too. Plugs, CV boot inspection, coolant, and then brake pads/rotors and fluid ... come on Spring ... get here already!!!


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## schagaphonic (Aug 24, 2008)

With spark plugs replacement due, are NGK and Bosch pretty comparable?
Recommended gap?

-------

Update 3/25/18 : Took original plugs out at 50K miles. Not awful but electrode partially rounded with increased gaps.

Stock plugs are Bosch and apparently copper core, so I replaced with same. Recommended gap is 0.043''
Added anti-sieze to threads for easier removal next time.


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## hungdang1312 (Oct 22, 2018)

schagaphonic said:


> With spark plugs replacement due, are NGK and Bosch pretty comparable?
> Recommended gap?
> 
> -------
> ...


Not all the plugs would require anti-sieze. If you put too much on the plug, it can interfere the ignition.


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## 2.5ophisticated (Dec 17, 2018)

I got a 2011 mk6 2.5. How often should you flush coolant/power steering by fluid? I got a local shop out here telling me it’s not required but I’m having a hard time getting past that


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## Boomer Guy (Mar 26, 2021)

hungdang1312 said:


> Not all the plugs would require anti-sieze. If you put too much on the plug, it can interfere the ignition.


Right. NGK plugs already have proprietary anti-seize on them when new. If you remove them and then replace them, you may want to add a tiny bit of anti-seize. 

I've known many people who have had trouble with Bosch plugs and I've read about those who have had problems with Bosch coils. I've been using NGK plugs in my cars, trucks, motorcycles, outdoor power equipment and they have never given me a problem. The iridium plugs last twice as long as copper plugs. 

I've used NGK coils and coil packs in my Japanese and American cars and trucks with no problems.


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## cylinder head o7k (Feb 13, 2021)

2.5ophisticated said:


> I got a 2011 mk6 2.5. How often should you flush coolant/power steering by fluid? I got a local shop out here telling me it’s not required but I’m having a hard time getting past that


vw states it is not required. if it bothers you do the coolant. i wouldnt flush my power steering but its your car and if you can find someone to do it then just do it


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## 2.5ophisticated (Dec 17, 2018)

cylinder head o7k said:


> vw states it is not required. if it bothers you do the coolant. i wouldnt flush my power steering but its your car and if you can find someone to do it then just do it


What if I’m trying to take the car to 300,000 miles do you think it would be necessary then?


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## JaxPlanet (Sep 17, 2018)

2.5ophisticated said:


> What if I’m trying to take the car to 300,000 miles do you think it would be necessary then?


Absolutely! I wouldn't expect any automotive fluid in a car to last more than 100K miles or even 10-years of sitting still. If it is not collecting contaminants, it is drying up and clotting.

Here's my approach:
If I had hydraulic steering, I would do a drain and fill 60-80K miles.
I test coolant every oil change. I check coolant color, temp rating, alkalinity, and electrolysis. If it's good, I leave it with a mandatory change at 80K miles.
Auto/Manual trans fluid and filter every 50K miles. (40K for DSG)
Engine oil every 6K miles, full synthetic, approved oils only.
Brake fluid every 2-years or 20K miles.

If you stay on top of these critical tasks, any problems you have should be minor or from normal wear and tear, like tires, brakes, hoses, etc. You could make it well past 300K miles.


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## Fearless Vampire Killer (Jun 12, 2017)

JaxPlanet said:


> Absolutely! I wouldn't expect any automotive fluid in a car to last more than 100K miles or even 10-years of sitting still. If it is not collecting contaminants, it is drying up and clotting.
> 
> Here's my approach:
> If I had hydraulic steering, I would do a drain and fill 60-80K miles.
> ...





JaxPlanet said:


> Absolutely! I wouldn't expect any automotive fluid in a car to last more than 100K miles or even 10-years of sitting still. If it is not collecting contaminants, it is drying up and clotting.
> 
> Here's my approach:
> If I had hydraulic steering, I would do a drain and fill 60-80K miles.
> ...



I am having the hardest time finding info on drain and fill on the hydraulic PS fluid.


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## Boomer Guy (Mar 26, 2021)

I'm overkill:
motor oil at 5K miles with filter - full synthetic, proper viscosity and spec (for the VW: Euro)
coolant at 30K - complete flush by professional with flushing machine (no air induction or mixing with old coolant) - proper spec (for the VW: Euro in proper year due to changing formulas)
hydraulic fluids at 30K with complete flush
ATF at 30K - drain & refill, not complete flush, filter if the fluid looks or feels bad

My car has over 152K miles on it, never burns oil, never overheats, no leaks.


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## cylinder head o7k (Feb 13, 2021)

well past 300k miles lets not get carried away here op is talking in kilometers.


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## 2.5ophisticated (Dec 17, 2018)

JaxPlanet said:


> Absolutely! I wouldn't expect any automotive fluid in a car to last more than 100K miles or even 10-years of sitting still. If it is not collecting contaminants, it is drying up and clotting.
> 
> Here's my approach:
> If I had hydraulic steering, I would do a drain and fill 60-80K miles.
> ...


Thank you this is the kind of answer I was looking for.


Boomer Guy said:


> Right. NGK plugs already have proprietary anti-seize on them when new. If you remove them and then replace them, you may want to add a tiny bit of anti-seize.
> 
> I've known many people who have had trouble with Bosch plugs and I've read about those who have had problems with Bosch coils. I've been using NGK plugs in my cars, trucks, motorcycles, outdoor power equipment and they have never given me a problem. The iridium plugs last twice as long as copper plugs.
> 
> I've used NGK coils and coil packs in my Japanese and American cars and trucks with no problems.


just to clarify spark plugs need to be changed every 40k miles and coil packs every 100k miles? I got the NGK plugs in right now but did them last on 6/16/20 but I forgot to take note of the mileage.. hope I’m not overdue


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## Boomer Guy (Mar 26, 2021)

2.5ophisticated said:


> Thank you this is the kind of answer I was looking for.
> 
> just to clarify spark plugs need to be changed every 40k miles and coil packs every 100k miles? I got the NGK plugs in right now but did them last on 6/16/20 but I forgot to take note of the mileage.. hope I’m not overdue


NGK spark plugs will last according to the type. The iridium plugs are the best and can easily go 120K miles. Since the NGK coils are good for at least 100K miles, I would change both, coils and plugs, at that time. Besides, you will probably have a leaking valve cover gasket and possibly PCV valve by that time. So, every 100K miles, change all of these. Be sure you get the OEM valve cover which includes the gasket, bolts and integrated PCV valve. This is not a hard job to do and there are several YouTube videos out there for the DIY guy. That's how I did it. 
And don't forget the torque wrench! When tightening the valve cover, follow the correct pattern so you don't warp it and the gasket.


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## cylinder head o7k (Feb 13, 2021)

dude for real forget going the full distance on wearable parts like plugs and coils. just check them once a year and if YOU dont like how they look get new ones. this is about driving your vehicle for 300k kilometers and beyond not stretching your pennies. your nuts to leave a spark plug in for 120k and more than 5k on motor oil why? every parts manufacturer and dealership has a vested interest in parts failure on your vehicle and using any part to the entire life of it is really putting alot of trust in the mass production process that has tolerances on every part.


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## Boomer Guy (Mar 26, 2021)

Maybe the plugs and coils don't hold up as well in VW's. I've been doing the 120K mile spark plug change and even longer on my coils in all of my Honda cars for the last 30 years. NGK has NEVER let me down in any of their products. I use them in my American and Japanese cars, trucks, motorcycles, lawn mowers, leaf blowers, weed heaters, and chain saws. 

On the other hand, I've had many professional mechanics tell me that Bosch spark plugs and coils are the worst ones on the market. When any of their customers complain about the engine problems involving spark, the first thing they do is look at the brand and life of the plugs.


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## 2.5ophisticated (Dec 17, 2018)

What do you guys think of the engine/transmission tunes for the 2.5 offered by IE Integrated Engineering? Do you think these tunes/hardware will shorten the life of the engine? Have been considering these tunes for awhile but not sure if I should go for it. I want the engine to last but I heard from a local shop that he wouldn’t let IE touch it and that those tunes have caused a lot of issues for people so he recommended GIAC (which I’ve never heard of). IE seems to have good reviews on these tunes though and I’ve never heard of anyone having issues so I’m confused.. anyone with experience or wisdom on this matter?


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## cylinder head o7k (Feb 13, 2021)

ive no issues yet only had this for half the year though


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## Boomer Guy (Mar 26, 2021)

I haven't used the IE tuning products but I have the IE vacuum pump delete blocking plate with no problems at all. I sourced the vacuum from the N80 evap emissions hose and it works great. But that's a different story. 
I can say that IE contacted me after I installed this to see how I liked it, so they seem to like the customer's feedback.


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## WtErKeWlEdUbbEr (Jun 20, 2005)

2.5ophisticated said:


> Thank you this is the kind of answer I was looking for.
> 
> just to clarify spark plugs need to be changed every 40k miles and coil packs every 100k miles? I got the NGK plugs in right now but did them last on 6/16/20 but I forgot to take note of the mileage.. hope I’m not overdue


Which NGK plugs? And what is your motor code? Might have the wrong plugs. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Boomer Guy (Mar 26, 2021)

WtErKeWlEdUbbEr said:


> Which NGK plugs? And what is your motor code? Might have the wrong plugs.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I agree. Always look for the simplest solution and "work your way upstream". Don't ASSUME anything. Your spark plugs may be the cause of a problem and maybe not. 

The NGK website will list all grades of their plugs for your specific engine, no matter what kind of vehicle it is in. Your specific engine may take several types of NGK plugs. I usually run iridium plugs but in some cases, I have gone with basic copper (Miata NB2 which had "wasted spark" and older Honda Shadow's which also had "wasted spark") and platinum (certain Honda cars) and different COP's or Coil Packs, due to research online with forums and other reviews. One size does NOT fit all. Like I said above, I love NGK but I am very careful about which plugs and coils I use. 

Way back in the day when Champion plugs were OEM for my Harley-Davison motorcycle, British cars and Japanese cars, I always had problems and had to experiment with "hot" and "cold" plugs within the brand. I'm glad those days are gone. So, I will always stick with NGK plugs of some type and in most cases, NGK coils. 

This isn't much help, but again, don't ASSUME. Check the code, check online with NGK and check with forums, like you're doing here.


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