# Allllllmost there...Just a little more!



## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

Skoda Motorsport FMIC









For Phreshness









Vroom.. Pssstt....soon as the clutch gets here.


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## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

i love Lego.

:beer:


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

TBT-Syncro said:


> i love Lego.
> 
> :beer:


 Who doesn't


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## huichox4 (Nov 8, 2004)

no wonders why you have not finished yet man .... the engine is going in the wrong direction ......:facepalm: 


LOL J/k  the car looks clean, the engine looks clean :thumbup::thumbup: great job


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

LOL...Thanks bro.

Here's the wheels that i'll be using...









Spent the last week organizing & deleting the harness. (My specialty)

























And here's my gem :heart: (Before coils)









More HERE


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## vwgolfracer26 (Nov 3, 2003)

its a niccceeeee


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## PjS860ct (Dec 22, 2002)

^^^ what he said... Nice! :thumbup:


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## STEALTHCORRADO (Oct 14, 2005)

looks good love the look of the wire loom


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

Thanks. I recycled all the tech flex from my last project.

Just finished the harness for the engine. Kind've a bitch. I had to stare at it for 2 hrs straight. I deleted all the stuff that wasn't being used right down to the pin in the T42 (Aux WP, PVC heater, etc..). lengthen a few, shorten a few...

















I'm trying to keep it looking OEMish as possible, i use friction tape on certain parts & instead of heat shrink tubing, i friction tapped the ends. 

Engine bay painting time...


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)




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## 'dubber (Jun 15, 2004)

As nasty as friction tape can become as it ages, you'll thank yourself for using it if you ever have to pull some back to trace/test anything that you wrapped with it vs. electrical tape or shrink wrap.


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

I've used friction tape plenty of times. It lasted 3 yrs on my last project.








..and the few before this. I didn't use it to cover any harness except the inj. area. 

The entire harness is wrapped in tech flex. I use split tech flex for those spots that i might need to get to later on. I friction tape some of the ends but that was mostly to keep with the OEM look. I've done enough tucks & bay cleaning that it's well laid out with plenty of access if needed.


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## vergessen wir es (May 12, 2010)

Big up


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## GinsterMan98 (May 19, 2008)

Nice attention to detail, should be a hole bunch of fun.


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

In the middle of mock up...

















Sadly the FMIC i intended on using was to big.  so i gotta use the back up till i find another.

Skoda Motorsport FMIC









Low Budget









I really wanted to use the SM FMIC but it's to tall. If i didn't have slim fans on the outside of the rad, it wouldn't be a problem.


Allllllmost there


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## MiamiVr6T (Jul 24, 2004)

use the slim fans on the inside of the radiator and reverse the polarity to pull


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## boosted_vr07 (Jul 29, 2007)

*........*

before you put everything together and start your car, put that intake manifold on a belt sander to make sure the intake flange is flush, i got mine warped and learned the hard way i got it off the same guy who made yours from montreal, no hating cuz the peice was made nice, but the runners were warped


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## vw a1 g60t (Feb 20, 2002)

Its me made sri.First time i see this problem for the warp flange.If you have problem with my sri just ask me reship sri to me at my fees and i put the flange flat.


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

boosted_vr07 said:


> before you put everything together and start your car, put that intake manifold on a belt sander to make sure the intake flange is flush, i got mine warped and learned the hard way i got it off the same guy who made yours from montreal, no hating cuz the peice was made nice, but the runners were warped


Mine is perfectly flat. I had it checked soon after i got it back from powdercoating. That's an easy fix though. 

I do wish it was a bit shorter. Maybe that's something to consider Miguel for those who have mk2's. I can definitely see it fitting an mk3 and still have room as the rad sits underneath the support. MK2 VR guys using a Rado radiator, it sticks out. I had to tuck my rad under the support to make room.

Other then that, i'm very happy with my SRI. Very well made & will definitely be doing business with Miguel in the near future. :thumbup:



MiamiVr6T said:


> use the slim fans on the inside of the radiator and reverse the polarity to pull


No room . I manage to make it work. I'll post pic's in a bit. I always watch your vid's on Youtube BTW. One of the few motivational vid's i watch


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

I'll start with what i had to do up top....

I had to trim the rad support not only to make room for the SRI but for the radiator itself.









I had to trim the tab off to get the rad more vertical....








This was to get the rad off the SRI & even up the room on the outside of the rad. I needed a good 3" between the highest point of the fans to the inner part of the grille. I had almost 5" on the DS and 2 1/2 on the PS. I moved the right side of the rad to the outside of the lower support & the LS to the inside of the support. Doing this, i gained the space i needed & was able to get the radiator off the SRI. I also had to trim the 2 lower tabs off the grille & trim about 4mm off the lower grille trim.

Fabbed up some brackets and....









No buldge..









Now i just have to trim the lower vents on the bumper. I'm gonna remake the right side IC bracket because i'm not happy with it. You can see it dips on that side a little bit. Not acceptable.


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## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

Subscribed! Great looking project


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

IC fixed


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## BiH (Nov 27, 2000)

are you depinning the plugs before using techflex? How do you have it running where they split? I just got a nice supply of techflex for my project so im anxious to start working on it. I have to order heat shrink tho, forgot to order it! DOH! :banghead:


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

I use a mixture of methods. Majority of it is soldered splices. Where it splits, i cut down before the split, splice & solder, then put the split where i need it. I didn't need to solder that many wires. 4-5 plugs maybe & most of those are in the engine harness, everything else was rerouted & covered using split techflex. I wrapped some ends in friction tape & the ones that i used shrink tubing, i cut, soldered, shrink tubed, then covered. 

On my old project, i depinned alotta plugs but i also had new pins & plugs to replace them. I wouldn't depin & reuse the same pins as they bend very easy & if you cover the end where the wire goes & then plug it in. There's a good chance the pin will back out & there's no way of knowing if it's covered in TF.


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## BiH (Nov 27, 2000)

how is the split techflex working out for you? is it holding on ok? I have never used it before so I was kinda hesitant on using it. dont like the friction tape much on its own.


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

I ran it on my Coupe for 3 yrs without any problems. On the Coupe,i didn't use any friction tape & i depinned almost everything. Only reason why i'm using friction tape this time around is that i'm trying to give an OEMish look. I could've easily use shrink tube as i have rolls of it from TechFlex 

I actually just ordered TechFlex heat shield covering for the hoses & wires near the exhaust & turbo. 

Where'd you get your TechFlex from?


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## BiH (Nov 27, 2000)

ebay!  where did you get yours? I do like the heat shield, that could be usefull.


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

*FV-QR*

I got mine straight from Tech Flex


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## 95jetta17 (Jan 21, 2008)

looks good...i would use the small intercooler it will look better in the end :thumbup:


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

95jetta17 said:


> looks good...i would use the small intercooler it will look better in the end :thumbup:


 IC is already in  
















I've since fixed the little dip in the bumper.. 









The bumper sits perfect & plenty of room to run tubing. 

Waiting on fuel lines & fitting as well as the tubing & connectors. I had to triple check the lay out on both before i made the order.


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## BiH (Nov 27, 2000)

what do you use to cut it? I see they have some kind of a hot cutter thingy that cuts it with heat or whatever.


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

*FV-QR*

A spare soldering gun that's used just for cutting TF.  


And do or die, i was gonna use this FMIC. How many people can say they have a VWMS Front mount. I like to thank Mike over at Tyrol for the FMIC. 
You won't find another one like it...unless you're getting it from Seat/VW Motorsport. Forge Motorsport UK sells a replica for $1500. Ultra high density core & super, super thick endtanks made by the same company that makes the SMIC for all VW/Audi/Porsche/Seat/Skoda. It's originally made for a Ibiza 1.8T. 

Line's & fitting will be here tomorrow. The fuel line from pump to firewall is on backorder but at least i can route the lines in the bay. More pic's tomorrow.. 

Oh...swapped out the 15" RoH's for some ATS Type 10 16's that i had stashed. They're beat to sh*t but i don't care as they're temparary till my Tom's C7R's are done  









Mah Tom's... (Thanks Chris @ 1552 for the wheel's, Adam(eurosportgti) for Powdercoating everything, & Matt @ Adaptec for the adapters)


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## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

How did that short runner work out for fitment? It is a migfab sri correct? I just bought one and it seems like it will be a tight fit to the core support on my corrado.


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

*FV-QR*

TIGHT fit. Plenum is a bit larger then what others use hence why it's a tight fit. I'm happy with it


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## Jayy (Jun 15, 2008)

nice work !

will this beast be at h20?


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

Sadly no. It will probably be done but i don't wanna make that long trip without getting it tuned via dyno first. Next year...DEFINITELY!

Got some stuff in over the past few days...

Mo' fittings. Mainly FPR & fuel filter fittings..









Some stuff from Techflex. Thermal shielding for vac & oil lines and a roll of Volcane Wrap for the dump tube









Some gear oil to help my tranny from the beatings..









Clock the turbo also...









Didn't do much to the car as i've been fixing my Allroad for the past few days


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## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

dont use that gear oil. its not designed for our syncros, and they'll wear out very very quickly. You should use the light or superlight.

my 3rd and 4th gear syncros had more wear after 5000km, then a set on the bench that had 200 000km on them.


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

It's 75/90w. Lightweight is 80w. I also have a QT of lightweight i had planned on mixing a qt of each. It was B/O with my Royal Purple motor oil


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

After digging around, i found that Redline recommends this for our applications & it's syncro compatible.
http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/Man Trans Lubes PDS 8-10.pdf


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## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

Capt.Dreadz said:


> After digging around, i found that Redline recommends this for our applications & it's syncro compatible.
> http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/Man Trans Lubes PDS 8-10.pdf


i run a 50/50 mix of light and super light now. It wont offer the shock protection of heavyduty, but it does shift better (especially on cold mornings)


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

That's what i plan on doing. If you tell me not to run it, i won't  You're one of the very few (2) opinions i trust 100%.

Now tell me how to fix a stripped port on my fuel rail. I had my son help me the other day & i just noticed that he cross threaded the plug end  Left half of the threads in there. I'm thinking i might have to drill it out to an 8an. It's getting plugged so size doesn't matter.


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Coming along real nicely.. organized and clean without overstating anything. :beer:


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

AJmustDIE said:


> Coming along real nicely.. organized and clean without overstating anything. :beer:


Thank you so much cause that is EXACTLY what i was going for. Everyone seem to be shaving their bay nowaday's. I wanted to see what i can do with the factory firewall holes & the stock harness. I'm very happy how it came out. 

I got my FPR today & i've already installed it. Was a PITA to bolt it up. Now i need to fix my fuel rail :banghead:


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## vw a1 g60t (Feb 20, 2002)

Whats the problem with the fuel rail?


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

The right side port. It got cross threaded. Miguel, can i use a 3/8 tap to retap the threads or does it need to be drilled out for a larger 1/2"(8an) threads?


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## vw a1 g60t (Feb 20, 2002)

**** man.Thats suck.

How do you have make to scrap the threads?
If you tap 3/8 npt you need to drill the rigth size.-8 is same way.But -8 need to machining for oring.
I suggest you 3/8 npt more easy way.


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

Thats what i'm thinking. picking up a 3/8 thread forming tap today.

My son was helping me the other day & he cross threaded it by accident. I didn't even notice till yesterday when i was replacing the plug end with an o-ring plug.


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## vw a1 g60t (Feb 20, 2002)

:thumbdown:
Do you know if you retap it -6 is good?

I dont know whats the damage to the threads.


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

vw a1 g60t said:


> :thumbdown:
> Do you know if you retap it -6 is good?
> 
> I dont know whats the damage to the threads.


I dunno  I don't have a machinist local to me.  My old machinist moved out of state. I can always get a 3/8 plug end. There's no hose is going to it.


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

figured i'd update this thread as i've had some up's & downs (on another down atm..)

In a nutshell i finally got it up & running but i'm having trouble with my clutch. Only thing i can think of right now that it's the clutch master cyl. (changed the slave)
Found the rad is leaking at the bottom. I bought the rad used a few yrs back and i noticed the PO had made a small patch. I think i knocked it off while trying to fit the rad.

Strangely my w/b is telling me that it's running lean yet the soot spitting out the exhaust is telling me something different. I think it's due to the sh*tty plugs i got in there. I'm going to grab a set tomorrow and see what happens..

I'm also getting an oil leak on the clutch side. I thought it was slave cyl. but after changing it with a new one, i realize the old one wasn't leaking. I'm thinking the oilpan gasket is pinched.

I'm a bit discouraged. Only thing keeping me into it is badly needing a car. Whats discouraging is the unforseen money spending. I'm currently doing an overhaul (for the coming winter) on the family Audi Allroad & i just dropped $1400 on a coil conv. Not to mention $500 on tires, brakes all around...list goes on. I was hoping to have this done.

Here's how it looks atm. 









Short vid...





More to come...


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## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

Don't give up hope! Mine's been off the road for almost a year now. I'm just getting it going the right way, right now. You'll get it there! :beer:


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## ItsNotaScirocco (Dec 7, 2009)

:thumbup: just noticed the eem badge and your sig.... eem PA here!:wave:

I got that same SRI for my Corrado build and I dont think its going to fit.


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

ItsNotaScirocco said:


> :thumbup: just noticed the eem badge and your sig.... eem PA here!:wave:
> 
> I got that same SRI for my Corrado build and I dont think its going to fit.


Sweet..Never knew Da' Militia would be this big. Can't wait for the big chapter meet. :thumbup:

Yea, Miguel needs to make them a bit shorter for the mk2 chassis


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## dirtbaggg (Jul 6, 2011)

coool build :thumbup:


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

To bad i gotta drop the tranny today


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## obdONE (Jan 28, 2002)

good idle! :thumbup:


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

*FV-QR*

Stumped & need some feedback before i pull the tranny.

Before i start, i must say that everything is new. Clutch master, Slave, T/O bearing, clutch setup. Only thing that isn't new is the fork and it was working fine in my last car.

In a nutshell, it's not going into gear. I've bled the pi** outta it with no luck. The pedal will only come up about 3/4 of the way. I removed the starter and looked in the hole and the bearing is still where it suppose to be. When the pedal is being pressed, i can see the PP fingers pressing in. If i try to put it in gear, it will grind as if i'm not pressing it at all. Did i mention i bled the snot outta it.

Any help will be appreciated.
TIA,
Dreadz


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

obdONE said:


> good idle! :thumbup:


Right on 800. I'm this close >--< to driving and the friggin clutch is giving me problems. :facepalm:


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

After a few speed bumps i finally took her out for a spin around the block & WoW! I still have the cheesy grin hours later.  Feels great. Sounds great. My a/f are where they're suppose to be (14.7 -+2 @ idle & 11-12 under boost). Running off the (15 lb) WG spring till my EBC gets here. My shift linkage is badly in need of adjustment. I can't fully enjoy the drive because of it. Something that will get addressed tomorrow. Boost comes on around 3800-4k and pulls to reline. Almost there 

In the meantime, here's a short vid of it warming up...before i realised it was starting to overheat.


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## Angrygilmore (Sep 28, 2008)

welcome to the boosted world your not going back the first time the bov went off I got an instagiggle and it still does it to me.. Are you running stand alone?


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

Definitely not my 1st boosted rodeo  It's been a long time though. 

I'm running C2 Stage 4+


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## Angrygilmore (Sep 28, 2008)

well I run an exhaust shop in lindenhurst If you wanna do something let me know I know you through paul from back in the day all island time


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## L33t A2 (Aug 5, 2003)

Dreadz, sweet project, its coming along real nicely, hopefully I'll see you around one of these days, IDK if we've ever met unless it was some Island16/Chilis meet back when.



Angrygilmore said:


> well I run an exhaust shop in lindenhurst If you wanna do something let me know I know you through paul from back in the day all island time


I might have to hit you up in the next few months :thumbup:


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

Angrygilmore said:


> well I run an exhaust shop in lindenhurst If you wanna do something let me know I know you through paul from back in the day all island time


I see him & his wife all the time. He's driving an MK4 Jetta (white). He was a Ford guy for a few years while working at Ford. I think he works for Riverhead VW now.

I definitely wanna 3" turbo back. I've been going to Richie at that exhaust shop on 112 near 347 (behind the gas station). He did the 2.5 i have on there now.



L33t A2 said:


> Dreadz, sweet project, its coming along real nicely, hopefully I'll see you around one of these days, IDK if we've ever met unless it was some Island16/Chilis meet back when.


Hopefully before the weather turn to sh*t, i wanna get an MK2 'shoot. I gotta few peep's down for it. They're just waiting on me


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## Angrygilmore (Sep 28, 2008)

I know richie and buddy over there at exhaust co


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

Then you know his mother who seems to never leave the office...hahaha


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## KubotaPowered (Jan 27, 2005)

Looks like it runs good! Did you ever figure out the clutch issue?


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## Capt.Dreadz (Jun 4, 2003)

It's the pedal. It doesn't push the clutch master rod in fully. I had to put a small spacer inside the little square box that the clip slides into then fastened a bracket to hold the clip on. The reason why the pedal's not fully engaging it is the the pedal cluster is cracked & when i press the clutch, it lifts. I'm in the middle of sourcing another pedal setup.


It runs great. It's been a long time since i've driven a VRT and it's given me the giggles all over again. My boost gauge is really off as it's telling me that i'm only boosting 7 lbs when the WG spring is 15 lbs. It feels like 15 lbs


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