# Oil change diy



## B6 Panzer (Jun 10, 2008)

Thinking about doing an oil change before the 10K mark. Thinking about doing it myself since its not covered until then. 

Anyone know the parts needed (special washers, etc) and type of oil to use? Also, any special tools needed? 

Here's my list so far.. 

-Original Filter (to be bought at Dealer) I think the dealers use Mann filers? not sure.. 
-5-6 Quarts of Castrol Syntec 5W-30 (Full Synthetic) 

Am i missing something else?


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## Szy_szka (Aug 26, 2010)

Here is a good write up: 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-Change!!!-(2010-passat)&highlight=oil+change 

I thought the manual calls for 5w-40 but there is a lot of talk on the boards here about the correct grade. I know I will stick with 5w-40.


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## Jas-CC (Oct 4, 2010)

I wonder if a filter change at 5k, plus an oil top off would suffice?


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## mrwilli (Jun 14, 2010)

B6 Panzer said:


> Thinking about doing an oil change before the 10K mark. Thinking about doing it myself since its not covered until then.
> 
> Anyone know the parts needed (special washers, etc) and type of oil to use? Also, any special tools needed?
> 
> ...


 
5 quarts Castrol Syntec 5w-40. Meets VW and Audi specs. 
Filter from dealer or Napa Auto Parts. Torque to 16 ft lbs. 
I replaced my OEM drain plug with an aftermarket magnetic. Torque to 22 ft lbs. 

The original oil filter will be difficult to remove. Most plastic or graphite oil filter wrenches will break. Be sure to use a good quality metal wrench to remove the filter. Seems VW over tightens the original one.


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## B6 Panzer (Jun 10, 2008)

mrwilli said:


> 5 quarts Castrol Syntec 5w-40. Meets VW and Audi specs.
> Filter from dealer or Napa Auto Parts. Torque to 16 ft lbs.
> I replaced my OEM drain plug with an aftermarket magnetic. Torque to 22 ft lbs.
> 
> The original oil filter will be difficult to remove. Most plastic or graphite oil filter wrenches will break. Be sure to use a good quality metal wrench to remove the filter. Seems VW over tightens the original one.


 ahh yes 5W-40. I will try to tackle this on my own. 

Thanks for the posts and link to the write up.


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## earnhardtfan77 (Jan 27, 2009)

by far the easiest oil change compared to my other 2 vw's


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## DavidPaul (Nov 28, 2009)

*Clean Underwear/No Shower*

Why in the heck would you want to put on clean underwear without taking a shower first?


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## Epence (Jan 7, 2010)

compare to doing oil change on 4Runner and 240SX :X


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## im1hapa (Aug 17, 2004)

Thanks for the info! I'm sending my oil out to Blackstone for analysis today, and it will be interesting to see what they have to say about my 9200 mile old oil from my 40k mile old/1.5 year old car. Its the first time I let an oil change go to the factory spec interval change...usually I change out every 5k...but stealership oil changes are too frequent for my pocket book now that the 'free service' has ended for me.


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## mymagoo (Oct 9, 2010)

Did mine last week. Figured I'd do one anyway before the 10k freebie. Quite easy on the CC. Took a total of 40 mins to do and thats with draining the oil pan.


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## Jas-CC (Oct 4, 2010)

DavidPaul said:


> Why in the heck would you want to put on clean underwear without taking a shower first?


 Taken from bobistheoilguy.com from motorol Oil 101: 

"Synthetic oils are a whole different story. There is no VI improver added so there is nothing to wear out. The actual oil molecules never wear out. You could almost use the same oil forever. The problem is that there are other additives and they do get used up. I suppose if there was a good way to keep oil clean you could just add a can of additives every 6 months and just change the filter, never changing the oil." 

Leaving me to think, why not just change the filter, and top off at 5k. The filter removes the buildup.


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## volty (Apr 25, 2009)

B6 Panzer said:


> Thinking about doing an oil change before the 10K mark. Thinking about doing it myself since its not covered until then.


 There's something very odd about this. My 2009 CC's service booklet has a section for the 5000k service and oil change that the dealer is supposed to stamp when completed. However, my dealership's service department indicated to me upon purchase that this is an error and only applies to previous versions of the Passat: They said the CC has a special oil-mix in it by default which is designed to be kept for the first 10k, and furthermore that the CC is designed to be ran with that special mix for the first 10k for optimum break-in. 

They basically implied that it would be bad to replace the special mix before 10k, and proactively advised against it. When i prompted them for documentation they said they'll look it up and mail it to me but never did (and i forgot about it), but a colleague said that some manufacturers have started doing this and it would be legit. 

If anyone has proof or official VW documentation about this, that would be sweet.


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## minnvw (Oct 16, 2006)

well i dont think changing your oil at 5 k instead of waiting until 10 k is going to harm that engine, that doesnt even make sense. 

I changed mine also at 5k , did it my self its very easy on these cars. then had the freebie at 10k and now will just wait and let vw to do the freebies at 10k. 

Main thing is to keep a check on the oil level especially as you approach that 10k mark, as oil shear is possible as you get more miles on the oil, which can lead to oil use.


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## evan2010cc (Sep 22, 2010)

I question motives on the part of the manufacture on this one. BMW has also changed their full service plan and did so mid-stream. Saying cars that are low mileage not get an annual oil change rather every two years or until the service light every 15k. I spoke to BMW North America and made it known that this is unacceptable and that this is clearly putting their bottom line first before their customers. They insist that they have found that with low mileage cars doesn’t need oil services to be done because it doesn't break down. I do not buy it and called them out on this.. 

Let me tell you after dumping the pan and seeing the high metal content and the color of the oil after a 1 year, even a year with 7k is pushing it. Also like VW, BMW uses Castrol syn oil. The Castrol site seems to sing a different song about oil change frequency with respect to time and mileage. What I could find on the site was the traditional interval of every 3 months 3k. It will be curious to hear what the oil analysis comes up with for the vwvortex member with the CC that is getting it tested. Some food for thought none the less.


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## B6 Panzer (Jun 10, 2008)

mrwilli said:


> 5 quarts Castrol Syntec 5w-40. Meets VW and Audi specs.
> Filter from dealer or Napa Auto Parts. Torque to 16 ft lbs.
> I replaced my OEM drain plug with an aftermarket magnetic. Torque to 22 ft lbs.
> 
> The original oil filter will be difficult to remove. Most plastic or graphite oil filter wrenches will break. Be sure to use a good quality metal wrench to remove the filter. Seems VW over tightens the original one.


 sorry, one more question... 

Do you think I can change the oil without jackstands? I dont have any and was thinking of simply "scooting" underneath the car to get to the bolt plug. I think I have to remove the belly pan as well, which has a couple of screws? 

I'm alittle chicken as well to get under the car with a jackstand for fear of getting crushed :facepalm:


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## rabbit07 (Feb 22, 2007)

unless you are the size of a 5 year old you cannot change the oil with out jack stands. 

you should get the rhino ramps if you are scared of jack stands. 

http://www.doitbest.com/Ramps-Blitz+USA-model-11903-doitbest-sku-572241.dib


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## JimH (Dec 22, 1999)

*my oil change routine*

What I do is jack the car up on the passenger side using a floor jack. This angles the car towards the driver side where the drain plug is located. Even not too tall me cannot get under the car to remove the engine shield without doing this. Once off I crack open the oil fill on the engine, remove the drain plug and walk away for about 15 minutes. I then come back and reinstall the plug hand tight. Next I remove the (Mann) filter, clean up the filter mount point on the oil cooler and reinstall it, wiping the rubber seal on the filter with a bit of oil first. I hand tighten, then go another quarter turn or so with the wrench. Then take the plug out, let the accumulated oil drain for about a minute. Clean around the drain hole, reinstall the plug and tighten to spec (15 foot pounds). I often use a new washer, though there are times I have not. If not, I wipe off the washer then put it back on the drain plug before tightening. Then I reinstall the belly pan and lower the car. Next I add the oil, Mobile-1 0W40 almost always. I've used Amzoil in the past but it sure does cost more than Mobil-1 and I never noticed a difference. After cleaning up I do a short test drive and check for leaks though using this procedure there never are any. Hope this helps.


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## Jas-CC (Oct 4, 2010)

JimH said:


> What I do is jack the car up on the passenger side using a floor jack. This angles the car towards the driver side where the drain plug is located. Even not too tall me cannot get under the car to remove the engine shield without doing this. Once off I crack open the oil fill on the engine, remove the drain plug and walk away for about 15 minutes. I then come back and reinstall the plug hand tight. Next I remove the (Mann) filter, clean up the filter mount point on the oil cooler and reinstall it, wiping the rubber seal on the filter with a bit of oil first. I hand tighten, then go another quarter turn or so with the wrench. Then take the plug out, let the accumulated oil drain for about a minute. Clean around the drain hole, reinstall the plug and tighten to spec (15 foot pounds). I often use a new washer, though there are times I have not. If not, I wipe off the washer then put it back on the drain plug before tightening. Then I reinstall the belly pan and lower the car. Next I add the oil, Mobile-1 0W40 almost always. I've used Amzoil in the past but it sure does cost more than Mobil-1 and I never noticed a difference. After cleaning up I do a short test drive and check for leaks though using this procedure there never are any. Hope this helps.


BAD idea to not use ramps or jack stand. Your car could fall off the Jack. Unlikely, but i does happen.


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