# ECS Stage 5 brakes



## chris_d (Jan 22, 2008)

just looking for some advice/feedback/reviews http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif on ECS Tuning in general and especially on their stage 5 brakes
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volks...age_5/
thanks










_Modified by chris_d at 9:11 AM 3-12-2010_


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## BornReddy (Jan 18, 2006)

*Re: ECS Stage 5 brakes (chris_d)*

Why so big?


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## chris_d (Jan 22, 2008)

*Re: ECS Stage 5 brakes (BornReddy)*

it's quite a quick car I need something that can help me stop


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## pnw_dubz (Jul 9, 2008)

*Re: ECS Stage 5 brakes (chris_d)*


_Quote, originally posted by *chris_d* »_it's quite a quick car I need something that can help me stop 

For the street or track or both?
Big brakes don't make you stop faster i.e. they don't reduce the stopping distance - only stickier tires will do that.
Big brakes make stopping over and over again more consistent since there is more mass to absorb and disspate the heat and prevent brake fade. This is only useful for track conditions and will make no difference for street conditions.
They may improve pedal feel somewhat which you might notice on the street, but the feel isn't necessarily better, just different. In many cases you have to push the pedal further than before to displace more brake fluid, but the pushing motion is more linear and predictable than the OEM brakes.

ECS makes great products and their kits are very thorough. However, you need to put any marketting/advertising about the kits into perspective and consider the cost vs the real-world conditions you'll be driving in. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by pnw_dubz at 2:11 PM 3-12-2010_


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## chris_d (Jan 22, 2008)

*Re: ECS Stage 5 brakes (pnw_dubz)*

I use my car daily during summer and it does see the track quite a bit... actually every time it is driven i sort of abuse it. 
I guess my biggest concern was the quality of ECS, I wanted to order many things from them but have heard a few negatives on vortex and at a low price of $2300 for 6 caliper porsche brakes it made me think as to why is it cheaper then 4 piston brembo. 
what do you think I'd be better off with? porsche/brembo








thanks for the help


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## pnw_dubz (Jul 9, 2008)

*Re: ECS Stage 5 brakes (chris_d)*

Porsche uses Brembo calipers - they are the same thing, just different paint and perhaps different warranty terms.

I think you need to clearly identify the problem you want to solve: brake pedal feel or brake fade... and then work the best solution into yoru budget. If you have $2300 to spend on brakes on a car worth maybe $10,000 or $15,000 with some nice performance upgrades, then thats really cool. But you have to consider if that money couldn't be spent on something more worthwhile.
My opinion is that you can get 90% of the benefits of a big brake kit with better pads/fluid and some brake ducts.


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## xola3que (Jul 9, 2008)

*Re: ECS Stage 5 brakes (chris_d)*


_Quote, originally posted by *chris_d* »_just looking for some advice/feedback/reviews http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif on ECS Tuning in general and especially on their stage 5 brakes
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volks...age_5/
thanks










Save your money and go for the real deal. You can't improve much on garbage. 
After I upgraded to Stage 3 KO4 turbo on my MKV. Stock GTI brakes is a joke, I don't care who telling you to upgrade the lines and better pads and fluid (and I already have track tires) it's a complete waste of money, and inadequate.
Went Cayenne 6 pots front and 4 pots rear. I wish I already done that in the first place.


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## chris_d (Jan 22, 2008)

*Re: ECS Stage 5 brakes (xola3que)*

That looks so fkn awesome man http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I never cheap out on tires either, but I need way better brakes and those 6 piston sound very good. I got a fully built all forged 2.0l 1.8t 20v ngp short block, built head, with t3/t4 60 trim on standalone @ 30 psi all day








every time i press the brakes I pray







I keep procrastinating always say next thing is brakes and end up choosing more power but it's no longer optional lol
Thanks for the advice and pics man!!







so nice


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## mm2129 (Feb 3, 2009)

*Re: ECS Stage 5 brakes (pnw_dubz)*

"Big brakes don't make you stop faster i.e. they don't reduce the stopping distance - only stickier tires will do that."
that has to be the most false thing that I have ever seen on this site....








big props to the MK5 pics! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








ECS brakes FTW! you get what u pay for


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## AP Racing - Chris_B (Jan 30, 2009)

*Re: ECS Stage 5 brakes (mm2129)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mm2129* »_that has to be the most false thing that I have ever seen on this site....

It is not false at all. Actually, it is both true as well as slightly over-simplified. The best way to improve stopping distance (for a one-time stop) is to put on stickier tires. But, if you are looking to stabilize brake performance across a larger range of temperatures, brakes with more heat capacity are needed.
So, big brakes won't make a noticeable difference in a simple 60-0 test on cold brakes, asuuming either brake system (OE or BBK) creates enough friction to engage the ABS. But if you are doing back-to-back 80-0 tests, you will quickly find out what a quality BBK is capable of. The stockers will be reduced to smoking chunks of blue metal pretty quickly.


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## xola3que (Jul 9, 2008)

*Re: ECS Stage 5 brakes (AP Racing - Chris_B)*

I don't know which BBK you tested but mine outbrake any stock GTI from any speed. People here in Jersey are driving like they only see three feet in front of their car, and when they brake, they slam. Before the BBK, I constantly watch for some shoulder space to have enough room to pull out to avoid hitting because the GTI wouldn't effing stop. Now, I don't even care.
All these tests that people do are all subjective and bias. They aren't fact. You need to test it for yourself and come to your own conclusion.


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## AP Racing - Chris_B (Jan 30, 2009)

*Re: ECS Stage 5 brakes (xola3que)*


_Quote, originally posted by *xola3que* »_I don't know which BBK you tested but mine outbrake any stock GTI from any speed. People here in Jersey are driving like they only see three feet in front of their car, and when they brake, they slam. Before the BBK, I constantly watch for some shoulder space to have enough room to pull out to avoid hitting because the GTI wouldn't effing stop. Now, I don't even care.
All these tests that people do are all subjective and bias. They aren't fact. You need to test it for yourself and come to your own conclusion.

I'm an automotive engineer who has been around more than a few brake systems over the years. I have tested a number of them with top-level professional drivers and data loggers. Yes, bias does come into play with testing, but an experienced engineer will develop tests that remove nearly all of it.
While I don't argue that you have a more confidence with your upgraded brake system, controlled testing will show that a panic stop (with a driver standing hard on the brake pedal) will have the same result if the tires are the same (as long as the vehicle in question is identical and loaded the same). I can put three different pad compounds in the same car and generate three entirely different types of feedback from the driver. And in the end, all three will panic stop in roughly the same distance even though the driver will tell me one was way better than the other two. The one he likes is typically the one he had to push the pedal with the least effort.
The fact is that most drivers are not trained on how to effectively brake an automobile, and ABS is required to prevent some of the crashes from occurring. Unfortunately, the most common human reaction is to not brake soon enough, then do a full panic stop. If braking started sooner and were more controlled, there would usually be more options for an avoidance maneuver before using the rear of the car in front.
Again, the ABS system will only allow what the tires are capable of on the surface they are currently on. If you add any more brake torque, the ABS will activate just a little sooner and give the same result. This is simply a function of how they are designed and programmed. The only way to a shorter cold stop is with a better tire, which puts off lockup until a higher torque value is reached.
Do I support BBK's? *100% yes!* Well, at least the few good ones. But saying they stop shorter cold cannot be supported by science or testing. Saying that a driver with more experience and confidence and can use them more effectively than driver with little experience or confidence says more about the driver than the car.


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## pnw_dubz (Jul 9, 2008)

*Re: ECS Stage 5 brakes (AP Racing - Chris_B)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AP Racing - Chris_B* »_
While I don't argue that you have a more confidence with your upgraded brake system, controlled testing will show that a panic stop (with a driver standing hard on the brake pedal) will have the same result if the tires are the same (as long as the vehicle in question is identical and loaded the same). I can put three different pad compounds in the same car and generate three entirely different types of feedback from the driver. And in the end, all three will panic stop in roughly the same distance even though the driver will tell me one was way better than the other two. The one he likes is typically the one he had to push the pedal with the least effort.



The main difference is when you change the brake bias. Certain cars like the MkIV don't have balanced brake bias from the factory with respect to the vehicle weight distribution (unloaded) and weight transfer during deceleration. Furthermore, there is no mechanical proportioning valve! If you pull the ABS fuse/relay and try to panic stop, you'll see that the rear tires will lock well before the fronts. This does not achieve maximum deceleration.
So when you put the ABS fuse back in, guess what happens? The ABS kicks in before the actual maximum deceleration limit is reached. You can optimize the OEM brakes by simply putting a higher friction front pad on such that all 4 corners lock at approximately the same time. Again you can test this by pulling the ABS fuse.

Many of the BBK's move the brake bias forward which naturally improves performance similar to putting a higher friction pad. But move the bias too far forward and the fronts will lock well ahead of the rears and you may be even worse off.
The big tradeoff is that most of the pads with higher friction require more heat to achieve that higher friction. So high friction pads that works well on the racetrack, may not work so well on the street. It is a serious challenge to design a good all-around brake system with proper pads that takes all these factors into account.



_Modified by pnw_dubz at 2:00 PM 3-15-2010_


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## AP Racing - Chris_B (Jan 30, 2009)

*Re: ECS Stage 5 brakes (pnw_dubz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *pnw_dubz* »_It is a serious challenge to design a good all-around brake system with proper pads that takes all these factors into account.

Yes it is, which is why it is best left to those with a TON of experience. A well-developed system will not need a prop valve, which is a highly non-linear device best suited for certain race classes (most commonly oval tracks) where rules limit the type of changes that can be done.
On the bias issue, this is another good argument for lowering the car and keeping the CG as low as possible. Since most cars respond well to more rear brake, the MkIV chassis needs to be better prepped to use what it already has been gifted with. Damper selection and tuning will also play a role in how the chassis responds to forward weight shift.


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## rdwong (May 30, 2009)

So OVERALLL
BETTER TIRES shortens braking distances and thus improves stopping abilities
and
BIG BRAKE KITS provides more predictable braking characteristics for repetitive use over a short period of time, at which I wouldn't say 90%, but i'd say at least the majority of that predictability, maybe more than 75% of it, could be bought at a fraction of the cost with good pads, lines, fluid, and rotors!
Bullseye anyone??

Ok and I MYSELF am running into a little bit of a problem too.
I run around 400whp on my gti337.
Stock brakes, so the audi TT ones....
I have ceramic pads and boy are they nasty when they're cold... infact SO nasty that I'm changing them to Hawk HPS just so I've got decent braking when I'm running 260km/h on the highway for a duration of time. 
Was the HPS the wrong decision? I wanted to get the big brake kits of some sort but really don't feel like pitching out all that money at the moment... its quite expensive. 
Plus my rotors on there right now, forgot what brand they are but they're cross drilled and definetly not cheap stuff. The holes are small and tapered out at the edge and spread out considerably to prevent cracking. Looks very much like the Porsche rotors' designs. But i'm having what people call "stress cracks" I believe. Hairline cracks throughout the rotor. I'm REAL worried that they will crack not so much that I'm scared of mine being worse than other cross drilled, but simply the fact that I don't believe in cross drilled rotors in the first place! Don't ask why they're on my car... 
Should I, or should I not, change the rotors to some slotted ones? or do you fellow dubbers feel that stress cracks are common and shouldn't need to worry about them at all?
I honestly wouldn't be asking this and would just change them without a second thought IF Brembo made slotted rotors for the Mk4.... which as far as I know, they don't.
So if I were to replace them with slotted, which ones would you recommend? assuming there are no cheap big brake kits obviously...
I do trust Zimmerman and Brembo and of course OEM, but what do you guys think of Schwaben? better/worse than Brembo?


_Modified by rdwong at 3:20 PM 3-15-2010_


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## AP Racing - Chris_B (Jan 30, 2009)

*Re: (rdwong)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rdwong* »_Plus my rotors on there right now, forgot what brand they are but they're cross drilled and definetly not cheap stuff. The holes are small and tapered out at the edge and spread out considerably to prevent cracking. Looks very much like the Porsche rotors' designs. But i'm having what people call "stress cracks" I believe. Hairline cracks throughout the rotor. I'm REAL worried that they will crack not so much that I'm scared of mine being worse than other cross drilled, but simply the fact that I don't believe in cross drilled rotors in the first place! Don't ask why they're on my car... 
Should I, or should I not, change the rotors to some slotted ones? or do you fellow dubbers feel that stress cracks are common and shouldn't need to worry about them at all?


Those small surface cracks are called "crazing". They are generally not a concern until they are large enough to catch your fingernail on. Plain-faced and slotted rotors will also experience crazing, but actual cracks will develop earlier in drilled rotors when exposed to extreme temperatures (track use).
If done properly and with good quality blanks, cross-drilled rotors are not a problem on the street. In fact, they do have a few performance advantages. Sadly, most aftermarket drilled rotors do not adhere to all of the best practices, especially the cheaper ones.
What would I do? Run them until they started really cracking. Then, if I was going to track the car, I'd switch to good slotted rotors. If not, then good drilled rotors would go back on. This is what I've done on my B5 daily driver. I drive harder than average on the Stillen drilled rotors and they show no uneven wear or crazing after 14 months and 22k miles.


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## rdwong (May 30, 2009)

*Re: (AP Racing - Chris_B)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AP Racing - Chris_B* »_
Those small surface cracks are called "crazing". They are generally not a concern until they are large enough to catch your fingernail on. Plain-faced and slotted rotors will also experience crazing, but actual cracks will develop earlier in drilled rotors when exposed to extreme temperatures (track use).
If done properly and with good quality blanks, cross-drilled rotors are not a problem on the street. In fact, they do have a few performance advantages. Sadly, most aftermarket drilled rotors do not adhere to all of the best practices, especially the cheaper ones.
What would I do? Run them until they started really cracking. Then, if I was going to track the car, I'd switch to good slotted rotors. If not, then good drilled rotors would go back on. This is what I've done on my B5 daily driver. I drive harder than average on the Stillen drilled rotors and they show no uneven wear or crazing after 14 months and 22k miles.


Wait, so you mean.... drive them till they actually crack? won't that um... really ****up the car?


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## AP Racing - Chris_B (Jan 30, 2009)

*Re: (rdwong)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rdwong* »_Wait, so you mean.... drive them till they actually crack? won't that um... really ****up the car?

Only until the cracks are large enough to catch your fingernail on. This is what the race teams do for test days. If you are not tracking the car, this won't happen anytime soon. Well, unless the rotors are made from junk iron and poorly post-processed.


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## heuer21 (Jul 22, 2006)

Bigger brakes help...Tires help the most...
I love the people that drop all sorts of cash on coilover kits and BBK and use crappy tires.
Poo on those people.
If you just want to drop some money I would go with Stasis, AP Racing, Brembo...etc. Or if you want to drop some serious cash contact Movit.de and get carbon ceramic. Myself, I use ECS Stage 2 w/ Brembo slotted rotors and Hawk HPS+ and stainless lines.
If you want a real braking system yank out your ABS, master cylinder, brake booster, pedal... and just get a dual master cylinder Tilton setup then get track time and someone who knows how to adjust braking...Personally, I hate the ABS system on VWs but it does help with ice.


_Modified by heuer21 at 7:24 PM 3-15-2010_


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## rdwong (May 30, 2009)

they're good rotors. well any rotor that lasted this long are good. First rotors I didn't warp yet. I ram on the brakes real hard at times and i go real fast too. I really want to get some maybe stage 2 brakes to hopefully dissipate the heat better cuz I've glazed them before.... and had fade...


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## rdwong (May 30, 2009)

*Re: (heuer21)*


_Quote, originally posted by *heuer21* »_Bigger brakes help...Tires help the most...
I love the people that drop all sorts of cash on coilover kits and BBK and use crappy tires.
Poo on those people.
If you just want to drop some money I would go with Stasis, AP Racing, Brembo...etc. Or if you want to drop some serious cash contact Movit.de and get carbon ceramic.

I want big brakes but can't really afford them...
And I HAVE ceramic pads and kinda hate them...
And I do have decent tires, but they're gonna be done in a couple months once I put it back on the road when the sun comes out a bit more. I want better tires, not good enough. But everything that's better than the ones I got for the dry is just gonna be way worse in the rain and it rains a lot in Vancouver... I got the Potenza RE-01R I believe. The ones they discontinued. 
wat do you recommend?


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## AP Racing - Chris_B (Jan 30, 2009)

*Re: (rdwong)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rdwong* »_And I HAVE ceramic pads and kinda hate them...

"Ceramic" pads and carbon-ceramic rotors are entirely different animals. Basically, ceramic pads are semi-metallic pads with at least 7% ceramic content. This is usually in the form of beach sand. Their claim to fame is lighter colored brake dust. They certainly don't stop well enough to be considered any sort of performance pad. Hawk Performance Ceramic is the best ceramic I've tried, but I still don't use them over their other offerings.
Carbon-ceramic rotors, on the other hand, are made by siliconizing carbon-carbon discs. This is pretty pricey stuff, usually found only on the very pricey exotics. AP Racing does offer them for the aftermarket in limited quantities.
Also, "warped" iron rotors are not usually sign of rotor quality as much as it is of the pads and how they are used. There are a lot of resources out there to explain this. I'm writing up a modern version soon that I'll come back and link to later.


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## rdwong (May 30, 2009)

*Re: (AP Racing - Chris_B)*

Thats rather interesting.
Then why is it that my rims turn charco grey in a week's time every time i wash my car?....
and my pads are no good at all cold, but if i really heat them up say an intensely windy country side road, they are SO amazing I couldn't ask for anything more.?
and are hawk hps good or not? easy to overheat?
wat about the stress crack, wat do you say?
my rotors, replace or keep? 
how likely do you think they are to crack? by the looks of the hole patterns? they're good stuff but still... 








And Brembos don't make slotted rotors for the gti 337s do they?


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## AP Racing - Chris_B (Jan 30, 2009)

*Re: (rdwong)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rdwong* »_
Then why is it that my rims turn charco grey in a week's time every time i wash my car?....

Not all ceramic pads are the same. The category varies wildly. I have experience with several of the more costly ones, but none of the "value" ceramics. Which ones are you using? BTW, some of the better semi-metallic pads that I prefer would have left that wheel completely black in a week!

_Quote, originally posted by *rdwong* »_and are hawk hps good or not? easy to overheat?

They are good to about 950°F. Above that they start to fade. This is a reasonable temperature for a street pad, but they definitely are not track worthy.

_Quote, originally posted by *rdwong* »_wat about the stress crack, wat do you say?
my rotors, replace or keep? 

Answered in earlier reply.

_Quote, originally posted by *rdwong* »_And Brembos don't make slotted rotors for the gti 337s do they?

I show 312x25mm rotors for the MkV GTI. Which year do you have?


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## rdwong (May 30, 2009)

OH right sorry your the same guy. It sounded like you knew so much so I wanted to get your opinion. 
The HPS are better than stock oem vw pads though correct?
And I don't remember which pads I'm actually using right now, I just remember they ain't cheap... some german stuff... 
Which pads would YOU prefer for good street braking and even with cold pads and good high high speeds braking such as 260km/h and occasional tracking or ripping down a mountain with all the switchbacks


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## rdwong (May 30, 2009)

its the 337.
mk4
2002. with the tt brakes or something.
oh and what would you do to a glazed rotor?
just sand her down? or simply let her rust overnight?


_Modified by rdwong at 6:02 PM 3-15-2010_


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## rdwong (May 30, 2009)

*Re: (rdwong)*

I did some more thinking and searching and realized this.
Crossdrilled/slotted nearly never makes any difference in performance whatsoever these days, more for looks only.
infact for performance, a good set of blanks will do better than either drilled or slotted
so would you agree that my best piece-of-mind solution would be to get some blank brembos when it comes time to replacing my rotors?


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## rdwong (May 30, 2009)

BREMBO DO MAKE SLOTTED ROTORS FOR THE 337!
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes...ode=S


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## chris_d (Jan 22, 2008)

*Re: (rdwong)*

yeah they do for all mk4's and a pretty nice set too 
http://www.goapr.com/products/..._f_ii










_Modified by chris_d at 7:59 AM 3-16-2010_


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## xola3que (Jul 9, 2008)

I'm doing a design for rear brakes utilizing Cayenne 4 pots caliper w/ 312mm rotors, parking calipers and all for MK4 but specifically for R32. I will post some progress for your viewing pleasure.


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## AP Racing - Chris_B (Jan 30, 2009)

*Re: (rdwong)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rdwong* »_I did some more thinking and searching and realized this.
Crossdrilled/slotted nearly never makes any difference in performance whatsoever these days, more for looks only.
infact for performance, a good set of blanks will do better than either drilled or slotted 

I've also been doing research on this topic off and on for 20 years and have found that rotor modification (if done correctly) does make a difference. This has been well-documented in many laboratory and track tests, including SAE technical papers presented to the engineering society. It's a bit too much to go into here, but read through SAE paper 1999-01-0142 as a first step when you want to learn more. Smooth-faced rotors cannot perform as well as drilled, slotted or cross-drilled and slotted rotors -- given the same operating conditions and pads.
Chris


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## TehLonz (Oct 5, 2006)

*FV-QR*

AP racing in the house.


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## torque1523 (Mar 10, 2008)

*rear brakes*

hey did you further you progress on the rear brembo brakes for MKIV cars?


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## enginerd (Dec 15, 2001)

In my experience at the track Drilled rotors are much more likely to crack, even $400 a piece AP racing rotors. I have the stillen/brake pros CP5200 kit on my car. The kit is great, but for safety buy new fasteners to attach the rotors to the rotor hats. They use junk bolts that fail after heavy track use. Slotted rotors are more agressive on pad wear, and I couldn't tell any difference in braking performance. Plain rotors seem to have the best life for rotors/and pads, and seem to hold up better in terms of braking feel when everything starts to wear. I found that the slotted rotors tend to have uneven wear - rotor thickness - near the slots that eventually translated into some pedal pulsation. The plain rotors feel better, btu you will still have surface cracking that can go pretty deep if you don't change them out ~ every 8 track events. 

HPS pads are good on the street but not so hot for track/autocross. HP+ are better street/autox but prob not a good cold weather choice, and they do make alot of dust/noise. HP+ pads on stock brakes are worth a try before dropping 2 grand on a BBK if you have never tried good pads before. 

In regards to MKIV rear brakes - DO NOT UPGRADE the rear brakes. The car has way too much rear bias. My favorite braking setup so far - Hawk blue front pads 13" AP racing setup - STOCK rear brakes with $14 pice of crap rear pads. 140 - 150 mph heavy braking and most important "stability" under braking. High friction rear pads, or big rear brakes are a nightmare with these MKIV's and the abs. Many VW road racers downgrade rears, or even have a lockout to turn off the rear brakes for rain races.


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## marcohh8 (Jul 12, 2010)

if you can afford the stg5's then i might suggest stoptech, brembo, or APracing, all of which make very good brakes. i feel that while 14" sounds wonderful you are kinda paying for the badge (porsche)


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## WOB-SH573 (Apr 21, 2005)

enginerd said:


> In my experience at the track Drilled rotors are much more likely to crack, even $400 a piece AP racing rotors. I have the stillen/brake pros CP5200 kit on my car. The kit is great, but for safety buy new fasteners to attach the rotors to the rotor hats. They use junk bolts that fail after heavy track use. Slotted rotors are more agressive on pad wear, and I couldn't tell any difference in braking performance. Plain rotors seem to have the best life for rotors/and pads, and seem to hold up better in terms of braking feel when everything starts to wear. I found that the slotted rotors tend to have uneven wear - rotor thickness - near the slots that eventually translated into some pedal pulsation. The plain rotors feel better, btu you will still have surface cracking that can go pretty deep if you don't change them out ~ every 8 track events.
> 
> HPS pads are good on the street but not so hot for track/autocross. HP+ are better street/autox but prob not a good cold weather choice, and they do make alot of dust/noise. HP+ pads on stock brakes are worth a try before dropping 2 grand on a BBK if you have never tried good pads before.
> 
> In regards to MKIV rear brakes - DO NOT UPGRADE the rear brakes. The car has way too much rear bias. My favorite braking setup so far - Hawk blue front pads 13" AP racing setup - STOCK rear brakes with $14 pice of crap rear pads. 140 - 150 mph heavy braking and most important "stability" under braking. High friction rear pads, or big rear brakes are a nightmare with these MKIV's and the abs. Many VW road racers downgrade rears, or even have a lockout to turn off the rear brakes for rain races.


Solid advice as usual from Enginerd. Couldn't agree more on the rears. For my MKIV track car I switched back to a stock rear setup from an ECS Stage 1 rear upgrade, it was VERY unstable braking at high speed on track in the rear. After that we took it a step further & cut the stock pads down to reduce the rear braking even more.


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