# Power window will not close



## carnut77459 (May 3, 2008)

My '07 EOS 3.2 VR6 acted up today. Taking it to the dealer on Monday but was wondering if there is anything I can do to reset the window. The driver window started acting up yesterday. The window would not drop when I turned off the ignition as it should. It would drop the 1/4 inch when I opened the door from the inside to get out.

So today on the way home (with the top down), I put up the top and the windows closed as they should as I was getting out at home. I turn off the car and remove key and the driver window does not drop the 1/4 inch. I opened the door handle and it dropped a little but not much. 

Now is where it went crazy. I used the inside button to lower the window a bit so I can get out and not rub the seal. I got out and was going to raise the window with the key in the lock ( I have used this trick once before). OK, door is closed, alarm beeps, LED lights, window starts going up, but when it reaches the top, it reverses and goes down about 6 inches.

I got the owners manual out and read and did not see how to reset the window position. It must think there is something in the way so it retracts the window so as not to crush something. 

So any ideas on how to get the window to roll up all the way and stay there? I am almost out of warranty (end of next month) so it should be covered.


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## mark_d_drake (Aug 17, 2006)

Hey fellow 3.2 owner, we're a rare breed...

THis might help

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...m-operation-of-Eos-front-windows-(TB-64-06-10)

However if you are still under warranty let the dealer look at it.


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## carnut77459 (May 3, 2008)

Wow, thanks for the detective work. I did a forum search before I posted but didn't come across that one. 

I have had it to the dealer for a noisy pass side front window motor and the inside door panels were both replaced when the black plastic bubbled up about 4 weeks ago. (all under warranty) I wonder if they may have changed the window regulator alignment a little during the door panel removal and install.

I bought some Kyrtox on Ebay a while back but it is the tube type GPL-205. I have never lubricated the seals and the car sits outside 24/7 in the hot Houston sun, so I think part of the problem is the seals are hard.

I'm assuming that the 205 is better than nothing and I will go out and lube the door seals before going to the dealer on Monday. Or should I just let the dealer deal with the problem as it is?


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## mark_d_drake (Aug 17, 2006)

I'd let the dealer take a look first..


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## carnut77459 (May 3, 2008)

I thought I would come back and finish the story. I put the car in my garage for fear it might rain and I was playing with the malfunctioning window with the top retracted. The window would go up and retract even without the top in place so I don't know if it was just confused or there was a bind in the mechanism that senses the pinch.

I read the reset procedure you posted and I must have activated it by chance. With the top retracted and door closed and me in the drivers seat, I rolled up the window. It retracts about 5", so I roll it up again and it retracts again. The third time I held the button and it stayed up, so I must have reset it. (I'm an Engineer and can't help myself with trying to figure things out.)

I raised the roof and rolled the windows up and the drivers window worked as it should. Now I had to bring it to the dealer last Monday and I figured they would test it and not finding anything, and proclaim it was fixed. I'll have to give them credit and they tested it and said the motor and regulator were bad and they ordered the parts which took a few days and I picked it up on Thursday.

My warranty is up at the end of this month so I'm glad to get problems fixed before it costs me money to fix. I've got around 24,000 miles on it since buying it as a dealer demo in July 2008 with 7,000 miles on it.

BTW, I like the 3.2 and didn't realize they were rare. I guess VW dropped the option sometime after 2007. I guess I am still wary of the turbo and the early problems with them (from the 1980's). I read that there was a shutdown procedure for turbo cars because the same oil the lubes the engine is used to oil the turbo bearings and when the oil pump stopped, the oil in the turbo housing would cook which lead to premature turbo bearing failure. You were supposed to let the car idle for several minutes to cool the turbo after running it hard on the highway.

I haven't kept up with the oil technology since then so maybe they have some electric oil pump to circulate the oil now, because there are lots of turbo cars on the market and I don't hear about the turbos failing much.


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