# Just bought a 97 jetta 2.0 w/broken timing belt?



## farixrc (Sep 16, 2008)

Just wondering where you guys would start at on this project? He was in town a twenty mph when it broke. Had it towed to the shop and they said 0psi cylinder 1, 2 and 3 were good, and 100psi on 4. it has 200,000 on it and apparently ran fine prior to the break. Got it for what I feel is pretty cheap considering the prices of the ones that I see locally. I am fairly new to the vw scene. I had a 97 golf for a while and a 91 jetta diesel both of which I just did maintenance on. Any advice or direction would be very much appreciated. Thank you!


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## jorge r (Apr 27, 2006)

Check the timing belt, visually and the timing


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

0psi means a bent valve. Get on the classifides here and pick up a used head for about a hundred bucks. It's an easy fix.


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## farixrc (Sep 16, 2008)

Piston and rod still be good if it hit the valves?


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

Look for a used engine with lower miles than the broken engine you have. 

Yeah a VW 2.0L engine should be good for at least 250-300K miles if you take care of it, and you could buy a used head, have it serviced, drop it back onto your block and it might be okay for 50-100K miles...

But, there is an outside possibility that additional parts got broken when the timing belt broke, and the broken timing belt is a sign that the Previous Owner didn't take care of the car, and that you are going to find additional broken or wornout parts.

You should be able to find a running engine for between $100-$300. So, if I were you, I'd look for a long block or better in my local area. If you were closer to me here in SoCal, I'd say come on over and buy the engine I took out of a 96 Jetta Trek last month. $200, and it was running fine when I parted out the crashed car.


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## MecE2.0 (Dec 20, 2005)

if you have a pick'n'pull near you a cylinder head from them is only $30 if you full the cam out. as long as your pistons are ok (probably are) that and some gaskets/seals should get the car back on the road.


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## JCousteau (Aug 1, 2008)

tdogg74 said:


> 0psi means a bent valve. Get on the classifides here and pick up a used head for about a hundred bucks. It's an easy fix.


Or hit up partsplaceinc.com for a remanufactured head. Last I checked, they were just over $400. For about half that, they'll sell you an "inspected but used" one. When you've got it off, inspect the pistons for evidence of dents/cracks on the tops. Also, don't forget to change the head bolts too.

Best,


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## farixrc (Sep 16, 2008)

OK got the car here now. The cogs just pealed off the entire way around the timing belt. Pull the intake and valve cover and the intake valves look good. Looking in the plug holes pistons look as if they are fine. Put the cam in all positions with a ratchet and rolled the motor by hand and it spins freely. Is it at all possible that it did not get the valves. Felt pretty safe and even turned it over with the starter in all positions to listen for a valve to get hit. Also cylinder 1 had no compression because cam was holding cylinder 1 exhaust valve open. The cam would not turn at all when the motor was tuned over"obviously". The previous owner said he was just taking off when it died and had it towed right away that when the no name little shop did the compression test. Does it sound possible to just have to put a timing belt on this and just start driving? :what: Like I said I am a little new to this. Thanks for all of your help guys.
Jesse


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## FL 2.0L (Aug 1, 2002)

With an ABA, that's what I'd do. My first belt broke at 63K. The same engine is at 248K now with no issues. Compression was checked without a good belt and without setting timing?


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## dkfackler (Feb 8, 2010)

farixrc said:


> Does it sound possible to just have to put a timing belt on this and just start driving?


It does. I did this with a 16v and it ran poorly-- there were bent intake valves in one cylinder. I wouldn't drive it right away-- just see if it idles normally.

I've done this with a couple of "Toyo-lets as well" -- some of those would kiss valves/pistons and some wouldn't.

Nothing to lose by trying. If you are comfortable getting new valves and hand-lapping them in, you can save even more money. It's not hard-- just tedious.

A word to the wise: Use a "real" VW timing belt. I've had less than great luck with 'chain store' belts. You DON'T want to do this again...


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## farixrc (Sep 16, 2008)

FL 2.0L said:


> With an ABA, that's what I'd do. My first belt broke at 63K. The same engine is at 248K now with no issues. Compression was checked without a good belt and without setting timing?


 Yes they did the checking the way the car was towed back. Did not even pop the cover and look at the belt. Just pulled the plugs and gave her a compression test. Then told the guy it was junk so he wanted to dump it and I ended up with a rust and damage free jetta. Even has new tires. He also put a new stereo in it because he works at best buy. 300 bucks and away I went happy!
I also have a lead on a 90,000 mile motor if this one falls apart but it was an auto car, is there a difference or is this a direct swap?


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## jorge r (Apr 27, 2006)

check the timing, it may just need a new timing belt. compression readings are expected to change when the camshaft is not dialed in


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## 2pt. slo (Jan 4, 2004)

aba is a non interference motor, i've broken 4 timing belts on 2 different aba motors and with a stock motor the valves are not going to touch the pistons at all. get a belt and put it in time and see what happens then work from there.


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## JCousteau (Aug 1, 2008)

2pt. slo said:


> aba is a non interference motor, i've broken 4 timing belts on 2 different aba motors and with a stock motor the valves are not going to touch the pistons at all. get a belt and put it in time and see what happens then work from there.


*That is absolutely false.* The 2.0L ABA is an interference design and the valves/pistons will definitely meet if the belt breaks. Whether that translates to enough damage that the engine will run without significant repair is a matter of luck. Most of the time, there are at least a couple of valves that are bent, necessitating the removal of the head for replacement.


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

2pt.slo

You do detail and paint correction work, yet you've managed to break four timing belts on two ABA engines?

Not something i'd brag about if I were you. Isn't that a drag on your business?


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## MecE2.0 (Dec 20, 2005)

how is paint correction anything like a timing belt? very different. i know quite a few professional autobody guys who do brilliant work who don't know their way around an engine at all. i know even more wrench heads that can't paint either. pretty mutually exclusive sides of automotive work. plus its not nice to thread jack just for the sake of knocking someone down.

edit: to clarify these are technically interference motors, however with the stock cam its only the very unfortunate few who actually make contact. best bet is to grab a timing belt, get it correctly timed and check compression before even starting it. if its good to go the car was definitely deal of the week.


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## dkfackler (Feb 8, 2010)

MecE2.0 said:


> ...best bet is to grab a timing belt, get it correctly timed and check compression before even starting it. if its good to go the car was definitely deal of the week.


Sage advice!
:thumbup::thumbup:


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## farixrc (Sep 16, 2008)

Where is the dot on the intermediate shaft supposed to line up with when I put the new belt on? Also any tips to putting the distributor cap back on? Man that is a tight fit!!!! Thank you!


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## jorge r (Apr 27, 2006)

*Set No.1 cylinder to TDC by alining the flywheel marks* 
 

*Align the camshaft marks* 
 

*Align the distributor rotor with the marking* 
 

*Set the timing belt tension to a 1/4 turn belt twist by hand *


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## JCousteau (Aug 1, 2008)

farixrc said:


> Where is the dot on the intermediate shaft supposed to line up with when I put the new belt on? Also any tips to putting the distributor cap back on? Man that is a tight fit!!!! Thank you!


The rotor will be pointing towards the cylinder head and will be parallel to the hall sensor connector to the right. The distributor cap shouldn't be a tight fit at all. There is a tab on the underside rim of the cap that fits into a corresponding slot on the top of the distributor. Perhaps the little plastic "gasket" has rotated and is covering the slot so you can't see it?

Best,


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

The dot on the intermediate shaft should be turned so it lines up with the dot on the crankshaft pulley.

At that point, you can look down into the distributor hole, and you should see the slot in the shaft at the bottom is parallel to the side of the engine block.

The notch on the distributor housing is then aligned with the distributor rotor, not the other way around.

Aftermarket distributor caps sold by Kragen, and AutoZone are the same Italian manufacturer, and they fit poorly (too tall, fit is super tight to snap on the clips, and can lead to clip breakage). Only use Genuine VW or Bosch distributor caps and rotors.


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## farixrc (Sep 16, 2008)

If I line up the dots on the intermidiate shaft and the crank pulley the distributor is 45 off. So the notch is at 12 o clock and my rotor is at 9 o clock. The dot on the crank pulley is also the big alignment dot for the other pullies that are bolted to it? Thanks a lot for all the help.

I must have an aftermarket cap on the distributor because it does fell like I am going to break it pulling the tabs on.


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## dkfackler (Feb 8, 2010)

farixrc said:


> I must have an aftermarket cap on the distributor because it does fell like I am going to break it pulling the tabs on.


Even the OEM caps can be tough to clip. I use a large screwdriver as a lever for the rear retainer.


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## jorge r (Apr 27, 2006)

use a lengthy screw driver from the top and twist it on the end of the clip, pry it loose. squeeze the clip in the middle part to clip back on, I tilt the cap back and get the back clip first, then the one in front.


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