# ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts



## smokinjoe644 (Nov 29, 2001)

2.0L ABA Conversion into a MK2 

This is a broad overview of the parts that are need or can be used to perform an ABA 2.0L Crossflow engine swap into an MK2 Volkswagen. The following list is based on personal experiences with these swaps and information gathered online. There may be some incorrect information or missing information in this thread, if you know for a fact that something is incorrect or have other options that work that I have not listed please contact me and I will edit the post.
The Crossflow swap can be done with very basic components and can retain most MK2 original parts, or it can be done as a conversion to an almost complete MK3 engine bay. I have listed many options, but there are always more out there. This is by no means a bible on how every swap should be done but more of a reference for people with questions or starting out.
Please respect this post and IM or email me with changes you think should be made. *Let’s keep this clean and factual*. 
*IF you are looking for reference on:*
Automatic to Manual Transmission conversions
Brake Upgrades
Converting to CE2 from earlier wiring
*YOU WILL NOT FIND IT HERE….. USE THE SEARCH FUNCTION, THERE ARE TONS OF TREADS OUT THERE ALREADY*
Enjoy,
Smokinjoe644

*PARTS*
Minimal Parts Needed:
1) Complete ABA Engine assembly
2) Engine bay wiring harness
3) ECU
4) ABA Coil
5) MAF sensor
6) MK2 rear motor mount bracket (if using MK2 K-frame)
7) MK2 transmission
8) MK2 throttle cable from Digi2 vehicle (1990-1992)
9) MK2 speedometer cable

Other Parts (application specific or options):
1) Down pipe and Cat (depending on previous setup, and number of O2 sensors)
2) MK3 K-frame (can be substituted for MK2 K-frame, then MK3 rear mount is retained)
3) MK3 Trans (not needed but may provided better gearing)
4) MK3 or Late MK2 Coolant bottle (allows for direct connection to MK3 wiring w/o splicing)
5) MK3 washer fluid pump (allows for direct connection to MK3 wiring w/o splicing)

Additional accessories:
1) PS Steering (MK2 lines will fit the MK3 pump if you remove the banjo bolt fitting, otherwise MK3 lines can be used and will mate to the MK2 rack)
2) AC delete (use VR6 pulley to replace ABA water pump pulley, new belts are needed *futrell autoworks sells complete kit with belts)
3) AC installed (easiest to use MK3 parts, corrado lines can be run as well *heater core or box may need to be changed to accept new lines)
4) ABS (MK3 ABS is self contained and is an independent wiring harness)
*ABS INSTALL*
a) MK3 booster/master/abs assembly can be mounted with 
existing MK2 bracket.
** if using the MK3 booster the end will need to be 
modified to mate to the MK2 pedal
b) Front MK2 lines will need to be modified or MK3 lines can 
be used (holes need to be drilled in strut towers *MK3 
lines go through the towers not under them)
c) Rear MK2 lines will need to be modified or MK3 lines can 
be used (use late MK2 or any MK3 rear beam for easiest 
installation *brake lines connect to beam directly not to 
the body as in early MK2 cars
d) ABS Wiring will require a second hole to be make in the 
front of each strut tower, and two holes to be made under 
the rear seat
e) An additional hole may need to be made in the firewall 
depending on vehicles original equipment

*INSTALLATION*

Engine Bay Preparation:
Suspension:
1) Use MK2 original K-frame ** MK2 rear motor mount bracket will need to be used on engine
2) Use MK3 K-frame ** direct replacement for MK2 K-frame, use MK3 rear bracket
3) All other suspension components can remain the same, stock MK2 or aftermarket
4) Use MK2 front cross member ** does not need to change

Steering:
1) Use stock MK2 power or non-power rack and/or lines ** banjo fitting will need to be removed from MK3 PS pump to install MK2 hard line
2) Use MK3 rack and/or lines ** lines can be used with MK2 rack

Cooling bottle:
1) Use stock MK2 rectangular bottle ** level sensor plug will need to be spliced into MK3 wiring
2) Use stock MK2 round bottle ** direct fit
3) Use MK3 bottle **direct fit
*** if updating from the rectangular bottle to the round bottle, the original bracket needs to removed and a bolt-on bracket can be used from late MK2s that had the round bottle***

Washer fluid:
1) Use stock MK2 pump ** plug will need to be spliced into MK3 wiring
2) Use MK3 pump ** direct fit into MK2 bottles, don’t forget to check single or double outlet

Coil:
1) MK3 coil must be used ** will bolt directly to the factory MK2 holes

Radiator:
1) MK2 stock radiator ** overflow on the passengers side needs to be capped off
2) MK3 radiator (use passat 16V front cross member)
Radiator Fans:
1) MK2 stock fans ** plug will need to be spliced into MK3 wiring
2) MK3 fans 
3) Passat fans ** direct fit to MK2 and same wiring as MK3 harness

Radiator Thermoswitch:
1) MK3 switch ** will install into MK2 or MK3 radiator

Brakes:
1) MK2 stock brakes can be used
2) Any combination of Corrado/Passat/MK3 brake components can be used 
*** Search for other threads, many variations can be found***

Fuel Pump:
1) MK2 pumps can be used ** some wiring may need to be done depending on application
2) MK3 tank and pump can be installed ** direct fit to MK2 body

Fuel Lines:
1) MK3 rubber line ends should be used to mate to the fuel rail ** will fit onto existing MK2 lines
2) MK3 lines can be installed onto MK2 ** direct fit, best if using the MK3 tank and pump

Emissions:
1) Will vary by year ** especially with OBD2, VW changed things throughout the years
2) Generally, you will need whatever sensors the swap car originally had in place
3) MK2 charcoal canister can be mated to MK3 lines 

a) MK3 canister will not fit anywhere easily
b) If MK3 canister had a purge valve it can be tied up and left hanging 

Gauge Cluster:
1) MK2 cluster can be used based on interior wiring
a) MFA cluster sensor needed to override speed limiter 
** can be added to any cluster 
b) Sensor must be installed to eliminate speed limiter 
** see engine wiring, speed sensor
2) MK3 cluster can be used with CE2 interior wiring

a) A jumper wire must be used from D8-E2 on the fuse 
block to power the gauge cluster

Engine Wiring:
1) Use MK3 engine bay harness
2) ** MK3Plugs may need to be switched for MK2 plugs for the following: (radiator fans, washer fluid pump, brake fluid reservoir, coolant reservoir) Depending on above parts used.
3) Holes will need to be made for the MK3 harness, 2 large holes for the grommets going into the rain tray area
*Headlight Harness*
4) MK3 headlight harness can be used 
a) Best to use is Jetta or Golf with single bulbs for 
standard NON-H4 harness; otherwise you will need to 
modify it to work for your application
b) Late MK2 big bumper turn singles will be a direct fit to 
the MK3 harness
c) Late MK2 side markers will be a direct fit to MK3 harness
d) MK3 horns can be used, or late MK2s 
**** MK3 harness is long and will need some fitting ****

*Vehicle Speed Sensor*
5) MK3 speed sensor can be used in MK2 transmission
a) If not using MK3 VSS ** stock speedometer cable from 
MK2 used 
b) Use an MK2 gauge cluster with MFA functions, there will 
be a small plug on the speedometer side in the rear of 
the cluster (usually black). 
c) Run a wire from the center pin of that plug to the ECU 
wiring T68 pin #65 blue w/ white strip
*** This will remove the engine speed limiter, without 
doing this the engine will be limited in all of the 
gears to 5500 rpms because it will be looking for the
signal from the VSS which does not exist.***

*Ignition Coil*
6) MK3 coil will require a ground wire to be run from the ground terminal to the tachometer wiring inside of the vehicle for MK2 gauge cluster.
a)The ground terminal is the bottom post under the cap 
(plugs facing passengers side)
b) Run the wire to the green wiring in the gauge cluster 
wiring harness for the tachometer signal.

*VAG-COM*
7) VAG-COM
a) pin #4 and #5 go to ground
b) pin #16 goes to 12V+ (power)
c) pin #7 ECU
MORE WIRING HELP CAN BE FOUND HERE: http://mysite.verizon.net/e.sese/x-flow_swap.html
Engine Preparation:
1) Conversion to NON-AC if desired
2) Switch MK3 rear motor mount bracket for MK2 bracket if using the MK2 K-frame
3) OBD2 throttle body needs to be turned upside down
4) OBD2 throttle body will require a bracket to be made for the throttle cable 
a) The original bracket can be tapped into the top of the 
intake manifold
b) The cable can be run under the manifold and the 
bracket can be attached to the support bracket for the 
upper intake manifold (large U-shaped bracket)
5) OBD1 throttle body is left alone

Transmission Preparation:
1) MK2 transmission can be used
a) MK2 clutch disk is required to mate to the transmission
shaft
b) MK2 8V or 16V setups can be used
c) MK3 pressure plate can be used with MK2 disk
2) MK3 transmission no modifications needed
3) MK3 starter can be used with MK2 or MK3 transmission



_Modified by smokinjoe644 at 2:25 PM 2-7-2005_


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## rawk (Jul 29, 2000)

great info man, thanks for compiling all that


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## all-starr-me (Jul 14, 2003)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (smokinjoe644)*

looks like a good list, I'm sure I'll have some to add to it as I get mine going. I am using a passat B3 16v or G-60 tranny and all the parts from a passat B3 for the hydraulic setup/cable shift. I would keep the stock mk2 transmission but its an automatic and I plan on turboing it once I get some more parts together.


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## andycirullo (Sep 15, 2004)

bump for all this helpful information


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## capnhowdy (May 11, 2003)

*Re: (andycirullo)*

bump for a good thred, and also my question... 

dose the VAG wireing apply for OBD1 as well because on the page it says OBD 2... 
also the VSS dose that apply for OBD1 ? because the page again is for OBD2.....


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## smokinjoe644 (Nov 29, 2001)

*Re: (capnhowdy)*

VSS applies to both OBD1 and OBD2, I will have to check into the VAG-COM it may be slightly different for OBD1


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## all-starr-me (Jul 14, 2003)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (smokinjoe644)*

Can I use my stock axles with the mk3 K-frame? Its a 90 with an automatic, so the CV's should be the same size, but will the axles be the right length?


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## LukesRacing (Oct 28, 2003)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (all-starr-me)*

I have a few questions for swapping blocks and heads for my turbo setup.
Will a 2.0l aba block work with th PG head?
How much boost is safe to run on an aba 2.0 liter with 9.0:1 compression 83mm(je piston) with stock forged aba 2.0 liter rods? with a front mount intercooler
will an atp 8v manifold still work if i convert my pg block and head to an aba 2.0 liter block and head?
Should i stick with the pg block and head and run 1.9l 8.0:1 compression bahnbrenner pistons(skip the 2.0 liter crossflow)


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## goofydug (Feb 5, 2004)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (smokinjoe644)*

wow, great list! 
now we need one for a 1.8t swap into a mk2


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## AudiobahnJetta (Jun 10, 2004)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (goofydug)*


_Quote, originally posted by *goofydug* »_wow, great list! 
now we need one for a 1.8t swap into a mk2









HAHAHAHA good luck with that one. Really I know like 2 people who've done it and it's lots of headaches and nights tinkering. But that would be sweet http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## smokinjoe644 (Nov 29, 2001)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (AudiobahnJetta)*

Thanks guys... I will be doing my first 1.8t over the summer... I will keep track of everything and put up a post when the time comes
I have a 98 (still cable not drive by wire) waiting for some cash and free time to start it.
As for more specific info on turbo setups, and different internal setups... that is not really my specialty, try checking out the FI forums... those guys know there stuff http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## all-starr-me (Jul 14, 2003)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (smokinjoe644)*

While looking at the lower radiator supports at the junkyard I noticed a difference between the auto and manual passat 16v B3's. The manual one sits about an 1 to 1.5" lower than the auto one and looks like the passat VR6 ones I have seen, is this the correct one for using the A3 radiator?
I am converting the auto trans to hydraulic manual, is the passat pedal cluster from a 16v a direct fit in the A2? the VR6 thread said it was for the B3 VR6 pedals, so I would hope the 16v is the same.


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## smokinjoe644 (Nov 29, 2001)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (all-starr-me)*

Yes the pedal cluster will fit from the 16v, along with the booster bracket to do your swap.
I will have to check into the rad support, I always used the manual ones so I was not aware of the difference. But thanks for the heads up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## mk2.slow (Oct 17, 2003)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (smokinjoe644)*

Here's how I got the AC working on my swap w/o PS. It's an 89 Jetta w/ a 96 OBD2 ABA.









Here's what I did:

1. I cut the bottom alternator mounting point off of the bracket.
2. Mounted the bottom pivot point of the compressor where the top mount used to go.
3. Fabricated a mounting bracket for the alt lower/ compressor upper mounting points.
4. Used a 49 1/2" belt from Napa (25-060490 made by Gates).








See the horn I cut off.










Here's the bracket and the orientation of the acc.









Notice how high the alt sits.









By swinging the compressor up so high, I put more belt on the water pump pulley (vr6). I also made it so that 
it clears the lower radiator hose. 








" 
Here's a better shot of what I cut off. Notice that the hole I drilled is not perfectly centered. You 
want the edge of the bracket you make to line up with the edge of the bottom ac mount.










This is a picture of the fabbed bracket bolted to the modified OE bracket. Notice how the bolt goes all the 
way through and exits at the apex of the "v" bracing.








Here's the bolt from the bottom. By locating where it is, I took advantage of a relatively flat spot.








Compressor installed. Make sure the wires have clearance. This in itself does not look too strong. Once 
the alt is installed, the bracket is locked in by 3 bolts which makes it very firm. I couldn't get any of 
the components to budge. 








Here's one of the components installed off the car. The alternator is now only held on at the bottom mount with a 
bolt on the pulley side flange, instead of going all the way through. I had to use a "spacer" to get it to reach the bracket. This turned out to be a nut and 2 washers. 
It seems to work fine. I will replace it with proper hardware when I get a chance. I was using hardware I had on hand.

The Lines:
I had a pair of mk2 and mk3 lines professionally joined.









See the blue valve cover? Thats the low side port. The low side was really easy. The hose sizes on 
the mk2 and mk3 lines on the low side are the same size. They just cut the hoses and put the coupling 
with the valve on it. If you look carefully, you can see condensation forming on the lines and that can 
looking thing (what the hell is that thing, anyway?). It was running at the time I took the pics.

The high side was a little more difficult. The mk3 hose has a much larger ID than the mk2 hose. 
They cut the end off the mk3 line where it goes into the compressor, keeping as much of the aluminum tube as possible. 
They then put a compression fitting on it with a crimp fitting on the other end:








They then put a new section of hose on it and joined it to the mk2 line with a coupling with the high side port on it.










The new ports are for R-134a, so I don't need adapters anymore. When I was letting it run today to see if it overheats 
at idle, condensation started forming on the outside of the back windows! This is my ultimate commuter car.
A thermometer in the center vent reads close to 40 degrees. I think if I fix the foam on my blend doors, 
it will even blow colder!



_Modified by mk2.slow at 4:58 PM 2-26-2005_


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## all-starr-me (Jul 14, 2003)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (mk2.slow)*

nice solution to no PS but theres so little belt wrap on the water pump I would be alittle worried. I am going to get the non AC pulley from futrells for $22, then wrap the belt over the waterpump one, its non ribbed for the backside of the belt, then under the AC compressor pulley. I just need to measure it all and find the right length belt. This should give more than enough belt wrap and prevent slipping, without changing the bracket or orientation any.


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## mk2.slow (Oct 17, 2003)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (all-starr-me)*


_Quote, originally posted by *all-starr-me* »_nice solution to no PS but theres so little belt wrap on the water pump I would be alittle worried. I am going to get the non AC pulley from futrells for $22, then wrap the belt over the waterpump one, its non ribbed for the backside of the belt, then under the AC compressor pulley. I just need to measure it all and find the right length belt. This should give more than enough belt wrap and prevent slipping, without changing the bracket or orientation any.

You would be running the waterpump in the wrong direction if you did that. I'm not sure if it would make a difference, though. Blackgold(?) did it like that. I have 15,000 miles on mine without a problem. As always, do what you feel comfortable with. It's your car and you're the one who will be hoofing it if it breaks down.


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## smokinjoe644 (Nov 29, 2001)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (mk2.slow)*

Just a question... why run AC but no PS... you arent really getting that much of an increase from deleting the PS, and the AC is definately worse when turned on? Just seems like alot of work for not that much of a difference in the long run.


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## mk2.slow (Oct 17, 2003)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (smokinjoe644)*


_Quote, originally posted by *smokinjoe644* »_Just a question... why run AC but no PS... you arent really getting that much of an increase from deleting the PS, and the AC is definately worse when turned on? Just seems like alot of work for not that much of a difference in the long run.

Simple. I didn't have power steering to begin with and I LOVE AC! I never did this swap for performance. I did it for reliability. PS is just another fluid that can and will leak at some point. I really don't mind non-PS. It's just one less mechanical system that I have to worry about.
If you want to discuss this further, PM me or open another thread. Let's not clutter this thread up. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## all-starr-me (Jul 14, 2003)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (smokinjoe644)*

so will turning the waterpump in the wrong direction be a problem? I hadn't thought of that, but I think thats why the pulley isn't ribbed. anyone have or seen the setup on a real non AC ABA?


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## myjettaisred (Sep 19, 2004)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (smokinjoe644)*

bump for good info


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## jetmk2 (Aug 13, 2002)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (myjettaisred)*

I have the vr water pump pulley on my swap with no ac or ps and haven't had one problem in over a yr. 1/2 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 87eurogti16v (Feb 11, 2004)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (jetmk2)*

this helps alot


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## brelvis25 (Dec 17, 2002)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (smokinjoe644)*

this is a great thread.. i am in the process of doing this swap right now.. 
question, all the vacumm lines from the pass side fender.. use or not use.. i have got an abd intake ( i hate htem but its easier) and need to know what all i will need to keep.. thanks!


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## Herumfahren (Sep 17, 2004)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (brelvis25)*

Can we get on of those Sticky things for this?


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## mk2.slow (Oct 17, 2003)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (smokinjoe644)*

This seems to be comming up alot lately:
Here's how I hooked up the tach:








You just pop off the cover and press a small connector onto the negative terminal. You have to spread it out a bit because 
the lug on the coil is kinda thick. I slid a boot from an alligator clip over the connector to seal it up. 
Then run the wire to the fuse box and attach to the original location. For my 89 Jetta it was a red wire with a black stripe that connected at D26.


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## GodSquadMandrake (Feb 17, 2004)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (mk2.slow)*

Bump


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## mk2-ing-it (Jan 28, 2004)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (GodSquadMandrake)*

why cant u just leave the ac bracket how it is ??? clearence/


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## all-starr-me (Jul 14, 2003)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (mk2-ing-it)*

because the belt would not touch the pulley on the waterpump then, which would be bad.


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## Dub or Die (Aug 1, 2005)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (all-starr-me)*

you da man smokin joe you da man http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## vdubzkikazz (Feb 11, 2006)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (mk2.slow)*

i can't get tach to work, i got obd1 swap complete mk3 harness everything hooked right up everything else works
the only wires that needed to splice were for the heater fan very easy
but i can't get the tach to work i still have mk2 cluster and ran wire from coil to fuse box at connector u2/11(according to bently book it should be for tach but it cuts the car off) 
if u can help me please let me know what wire do i need to hook up the wire from coil on 91-92 gti 
Herumfahren said d26 but my box has no d26 i also tried the jump from d to e and nothing.


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## vdubzkikazz (Feb 11, 2006)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (vdubzkikazz)*

never mind i figured it out it goes to G1/12 green and white wire


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## eurochris1021 (Jan 27, 2006)

*Re: (rawk)*

your a god


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## jude007 (Jan 6, 2005)

*Re: (eurochris1021)*

My mk2 has done 170k. I just started seroiusly looking into a engine swap , but the ABA is not a UK model , is there an alternative. I never done anything quite so difficult before so ease is paramount as its my daily driver and would like it back on the road at some point.


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## bossmk2 (Dec 7, 2005)

*Re: (jude007)*

what comes in your mk3's over there?


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## jude007 (Jan 6, 2005)

*Re: (bossmk2)*

Thansk for the reply. sorry I dunno what mk3 engines cause I only ever had mk2's. I dont wanna hijack this thread either so I will post new thread.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...id=38


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## papichulo7 (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (smokinjoe644)*

Bump from the dead for an excellent thread! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Jacobim7 (Apr 7, 2007)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (papichulo7)*

Awesome! Bump!


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## myglimk2 (Oct 15, 2006)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (Jacobim7)*

Alot of great info here http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Keep it up


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## mk2 2.0 gti (May 26, 2006)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (myglimk2)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif im in the process of doin a 94 odb2 swap into my 92 gti! this thread has come in handy and im sure ill need it b4 i get done with the swap!


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## 92turboxfow (Jan 29, 2006)

bump this tread


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## smokinjoe644 (Nov 29, 2001)

*Re: (92turboxfow)*

yes... back from the dead....


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## 92turboxfow (Jan 29, 2006)

what do you mean passat 16v cross member


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## djshortbus1.8T (Mar 21, 2003)

*Re: (92turboxfow)*

bump


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## vdubtiago (Apr 15, 2006)

*Re: (jude007)*

how would you go about doing non AC and no PS??


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: (vdubtiago)*

take off AC compressor, take off PS pump. Get a factory non AC serp belt


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## vdubtiago (Apr 15, 2006)

*Re: (bonesaw)*

thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## carpathianwolf (Jul 10, 2003)

*Re: (vdubtiago)*

Hey Guys, I'm doing a obd2 into a friends 92 golf. I have everything pretty much figured out except the evap. Is there a way around the evap system so that it doesnt throw a code? We would not care if we ran a mk2 cluster but since we are running a mk3 cluster the check engine light will be on.
Would a resistor trick the ECU to think the evap is there? any help would be great.


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: (carpathianwolf)*

leave the evap solenoid plugged in. or pull the Check engine light bulb out.


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## vdubtiago (Apr 15, 2006)

*Re: (bonesaw)*

I just almost finished up my 98 aba swap into my 92 gti, and I can't figure some things out. Is there supposed to be power from the ignition straight to the starter? (I think it's a solid red wire, maybe red/black, that comes out of the fuse box) I can't find that wire in the engine bay, also, I am not getting power to the fuel rail. Do you think it is because of the alarm system in the mk3? and what can I do to bypass the alarm?


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## manfredwerner (Jan 30, 2007)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (smokinjoe644)*

thanks a lot it is very useful. i have a few questions. i need to make my mk2 run asap. i have aba motor for it obd2, the question is how to make it run on all the original digi2 wiring etc, coz i have very little cash to buy parts.
can i just fab an adaptor for the digi2 tb and install digi2 sensors on aba and chip the original ecu to compensate for the different engine?

thanks a lot.


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: (vdubtiago)*

you need to put a fuse in the connector with the big red wires. also there should be two red thin wires with a green connector, that needs to be jumped. it is the clutch safety switch.
as for doing it on digi 2 it could be done but no reason when if you put it on motronic it will run perfectly. it goes right in to any mk2 thats 90-92.


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## manfredwerner (Jan 30, 2007)

*Re: (bonesaw)*

i don't quite understand the wiring etc.


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: (manfredwerner)*

pay me to do it haha.


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## manfredwerner (Jan 30, 2007)

*Re: (bonesaw)*

i am a diy-er, i would like to learn.


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## carpathianwolf (Jul 10, 2003)

*Re: (manfredwerner)*

Doing another swap for a friend, he wants to keep his mk2 cluster but use the mk3 trans, What are my options for speedo cable?


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## vwpat (Oct 25, 2000)

*Re: (carpathianwolf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *carpathianwolf* »_Doing another swap for a friend, he wants to keep his mk2 cluster but use the mk3 trans, What are my options for speedo cable?
remove VSS, put the Mk II cable in the hole of the MK III tranny. Use cruise control transistor for VSS input.


----------



## carpathianwolf (Jul 10, 2003)

*Re: (vwpat)*

Perfect that is what I was thinking, but wasnt 100%. 
thank you


----------



## vdubtiago (Apr 15, 2006)

*Re: (carpathianwolf)*

I have my swap all done, and I useed the vss and the mk3 cluster, but i am dying off around 4k and then redlining at 5,5 ish... there are a few extra wires coming in from the engine harness that aren't connected. is the little blue one with the blue plug for the vss? and if so, where does it connect?


----------



## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: (vdubtiago)*

blue wire with white stripe connect to W1 on fuse panel


----------



## vdubtiago (Apr 15, 2006)

*Re: (bonesaw)*

i did that and it's still cutting off... I took the wire directly out of the blue plug and put the little metal fitting on the end onto w1. The idle is at like 500 rpms. you think my distributor timing could have something to do with it?


----------



## vdubtiago (Apr 15, 2006)

*Re: (vdubtiago)*

also, today i ran outta gas, no gas light came on, and i was still in the red zone on the gauge, hadn't even gotten to empty yet (i have ran on the last white line in my 98 jetta, so i figured i could in the gti). what's up with that?


----------



## ES84rabbit (Nov 2, 2005)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (smokinjoe644)*








I have a 90 Coupe that I swapped an OBD I motor in. Everything is plugged in and I am using the MK3 cluster (D-8 to E-2 done).
Problems:
1 Fuel pump doesn't run
2 No spark
3 fuel injectors not firing
I do have 12 volts in the harness when the key is on, which tells me that the ECU power up relay is working.

I hope that I explained this right.
I am running out of time I have to finish this asap.
Any sugestions?


_Modified by ES84rabbit at 2:53 PM 6-30-2008_


----------



## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (ES84rabbit)*

is there a relay in position 3? are you getting good ground to pin 1, constant to 54, and switched to 23. have you tried jumping the two big terminals of the FP relay?


----------



## vdubtiago (Apr 15, 2006)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (bonesaw)*

anyone?


----------



## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (vdubtiago)*

what cluster and what tank? if you use a mk3 cluster and a mk2 tank it is very very inaccurate. change to a mk3 tank to fix the problem.


----------



## Jonturbodream91 (Jul 13, 2007)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (smokinjoe644)*

bump


----------



## MCTB (Dec 30, 2005)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (Jonturbodream91)*

Im thinking about doing this now. was thinking vr but the whole reason i bought my 88 carat is to be an alternative daily to keep miles off my mkv. so, ive read both swap faqs and have a couple of questions now:
- what years are obd 1 v. obd 2?
- if i want to keep my mkii cluster and already have mfa, what wiring is changes need to be done? i read that there were some things that needed to be done if you didnt have it. 
- i want to keep my 9a trans so would i just use another 8v clutch set up?
my 8v is running pretty strong but i want to try and make a little more power so im looking into swaps. 
thanks


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (morecarsthanbrains)*

obd1 93-95 obd2 96-99
if you want mfa the gas is calcualted by vacuum so i dont know how accurate. you would need to run a new wire and add sensor for oil temp and outside air temp. you would also need to connect the speed signal wire to the cluster to eliminate the speed cut.
you will need to use clutch PP flywheel setup for a 9A. 
you will def see a little more pep but i dont know how much of a differnece. 


_Modified by bonesaw at 8:34 PM 7-15-2008_


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## MCTB (Dec 30, 2005)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (bonesaw)*

well, i think im going to find an obd 1 aba. the mfa is pretty cool but its kind of useless. it doesnt work all that well but it is kind of cool. 
why would i need to run wires for these sensors? do abas not have a sensor for oil temp like the 8v and wouldnt i still be using the same outside temp sensor as i am now? if i read the post correctly, isnt the only wiring changed on the motor?
i want to throw a turbo on there and i figured that theres more pep available easily from this motor in comparison to the good ol 8v.


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (morecarsthanbrains)*

no ABA have MFA so they do not have oil temp out outside air temp.
the outside air temp is in the engine part of the harness. depending on what year harness the headlight harness might be integrated and its just as easy to use the mk3 harness. Use everything wiring wise firewall forward from a mk3


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## MCTB (Dec 30, 2005)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (bonesaw)*

well i found out today that i have ce1 wiring in my 88 carat. both aba swap diys are on later mkiis. what is going to be different for me?


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## michaelss (Feb 11, 2007)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (smokinjoe644)*

will a mk3 exhaust work with this swap?


----------



## Daylight Bombings (Oct 23, 2008)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (smokinjoe644)*

bump for watched topics


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## manfredwerner (Jan 30, 2007)

i don;t know if it was mentioned, but i guess i'll post it anyways, if keeping ac/ and p/s in aba swap into mk2, you will have to switch to scirocco 16 radiator(with a/c option) the rocco rad is the same as 1.8 8v, so this is a bs._Modified by me aftre testfitting. + low temp termostat. no other radiators will work except for honda civic( but too small) and audi longitudal engines. like coupe 81-for example, that's all i know.

_Modified by manfredwerner at 4:51 PM 12-23-2008_


_Modified by manfredwerner at 12:20 AM 1-11-2009_


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (morecarsthanbrains)*

88 carat means harness will not plug in. splicing required or convert car to ce2
mk3 exhaust will work but may need to change some hangers.
any rad will work but you need one the condensor will bolt to. also need to mate AC lines.


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## manfredwerner (Jan 30, 2007)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (bonesaw)*

i can't fit in the lower coolant hose there is no room. unless i am missing something and there is a better solution, please chime in.








i was refering to situation whenn i am keeping the p/s and the a/c, practicaly no room, unless switching to a smaller rad.


_Modified by manfredwerner at 6:47 PM 12-23-2008_


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## manfredwerner (Jan 30, 2007)

a dumb question what does this mean?
VAG-COM
7) VAG-COM
a) pin #4 and #5 go to ground
b) pin #16 goes to 12V+ (power)
c) pin #7 ECU


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## manfredwerner (Jan 30, 2007)

ttt


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: (manfredwerner)*

the OBD scan port red wire needs switched or constant power. browns need ground. if obd2 grey white to grey white. and if obd1 also need yellow to yellow.


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## manfredwerner (Jan 30, 2007)

*Re: (bonesaw)*

if i leave them just hanging for now, will the car run like this? i don't have the obd port yet.


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## manfredwerner (Jan 30, 2007)

for the vss, can i use regular ce cluster with no maf function and have the engine run?


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: (manfredwerner)*

yes you dont need OBD port. you dont have to have the VSS wire hooked up but you MIGHT experience a fuel cut when hammering on the car. usually in 3rd and 4th over 5500rpm.


----------



## manfredwerner (Jan 30, 2007)

*Re: (bonesaw)*

oh, thanks a lot, my car is 65 miles away and i only have 2 days to get out from my garage, so i must get it running or else.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (all-starr-me)*

swapping form digifant 1 to motronic http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Good right up


----------



## wonderman1000 (Sep 26, 2006)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (morecarsthanbrains)*

this thread should be stickied!


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## boraIV (Jan 8, 2001)

*Re: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts (smokinjoe644)*

watched


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## MadKatt_44 (Aug 18, 2008)

Me too http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

Gots a question about TB's!

I'm doing the aba swap in my mk2, but at the same time i'm also doing an ABF clone. Do I use the mk3 throttle body or use the 16v throttle body from the mk2? Or can I use a throttle body from my 1.8 engine (from my 92' golf gl)


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## Ickey (Sep 6, 2009)

use the aba TB i am pretty sure dont quote me on it but its what i would use lol ...


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## Svedka (Jul 4, 2008)

Ickey said:


> use the aba TB i am pretty sure dont quote me on it but its what i would use lol ...


parts list for ABF clone on obd
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-for-OBD1-16v-aba-2.0-(low-compression-8.5-1)

yes you need the obd throttle body


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## JC503 (Sep 30, 2009)

i must give credit where credit is due, this is a great thread, i was able to get my tachometer working with info from this thread although unlike vdubzkikazz mine worked with solid green wire! thanks for making thread! looking forward to the 1.8t thread


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## Scirocco36 (Jan 1, 2010)

Glad to see that this is still being watched, hope I don't need to ask any questions when I do the swap, but happy to see that there are still people that answer the them.


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## The Mexican Dub (Nov 8, 2006)

Just finished my obd1 swap into a ce2 mk2. 

Took everything from the mk3, subrame, steering rack, lines, pumps, everything. 

Everything in place and the car fired up the first time with no problems. Except..... 

I am keeping the p.s but want to move the a/c compressor out of the way of my coolant hose. 

vr6 water pump pulley will work if no p.s, but I have p.s 
Any tips on that_?

Also, damn airbox doesn't fit. I didn´t know that till today. ... I guess ugly ass cone is my choice_?


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## CodeMan (May 12, 2006)

The Mexican Dub said:


> Also, damn airbox doesn't fit. I didn´t know that till today. ... I guess ugly ass cone is my choice_?


A Corrado VR6 airbox will work, or a Digi2 airbox can be modified to accept the Motronic MAF.


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## Ickey (Sep 6, 2009)

ok i dont see this mentioned in here as this is motly about wiring issues but how in the hell do i make a bracket to flip the TB over ? i dont get how i shoulddo this anybody ?


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## naitsyrkk (Jun 9, 2010)

i just swapped my 92 golf with a 96 jetta aba and im getting no power to the starter i tried to wire the ignition wire to the starter but that didnt help anything do you have any idea what it could be


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## bretthbmx (Jun 20, 2007)

bonesaw said:


> what cluster and what tank? if you use a mk3 cluster and a mk2 tank it is very very inaccurate. change to a mk3 tank to fix the problem.


 Do you have to change any wiring to use mk3 tank and pump?


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## bretthbmx (Jun 20, 2007)

naitsyrkk said:


> i just swapped my 92 golf with a 96 jetta aba and im getting no power to the starter i tried to wire the ignition wire to the starter but that didnt help anything do you have any idea what it could be


 You need to stick a fuse in the clutch safety switch wire plug. Green plug with two wires, I can't remember the colors at the moment.


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## dubbin'0n15s (Sep 27, 2005)

I have a 91 gti with an obd2 aba swap in it. The car starts, runs and drives. The issue I have is the cluster instruments do not work. It is the stock mk2 cluster. My gas guage, oil pressure light, battery light, coolant temp guage, and turn signal light dont work. Tach doesn't work either but I haven't hooked that up yet. The cluster lights up when I turn on my headlights, and the high beam indicator light works too but thats it. Any input on this? I've even tried a different cluster, as well as different cluster harness and same issue. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.


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## b5in (Sep 10, 2003)

dubbin'0n15s said:


> I have a 91 gti with an obd2 aba swap in it. The car starts, runs and drives. The issue I have is the cluster instruments do not work. It is the stock mk2 cluster. My gas guage, oil pressure light, battery light, coolant temp guage, and turn signal light dont work. Tach doesn't work either but I haven't hooked that up yet. The cluster lights up when I turn on my headlights, and the high beam indicator light works too but thats it. Any input on this? I've even tried a different cluster, as well as different cluster harness and same issue. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.


 That's called karma for giving up a mk2 VRT and getting a 2.sLow :laugh: 

but in all seriousness if you have another fusebox I would try swapping it in. All your fuses and relays might be fine but internally the fusebox might have corrosion orrrrr it could be bad/corroded grounds under the dash on the driver's side, there's like a wheel looking thing that all the grounds go to, check/clean that :beer:


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## dubbin'0n15s (Sep 27, 2005)

b5in said:


> That's called karma for giving up a mk2 VRT and getting a 2.sLow :laugh:
> 
> but in all seriousness if you have another fusebox I would try swapping it in. All your fuses and relays might be fine but internally the fusebox might have corrosion orrrrr it could be bad/corroded grounds under the dash on the driver's side, there's like a wheel looking thing that all the grounds go to, check/clean that :beer:


 haha I'll have another at some point. I have already swapped a fusebox once, I still have to clean the grounds though. Ill try that.


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## bretthbmx (Jun 20, 2007)

My mk3 cluster illumination isn't working when I turn on the headlights, is there something else you have to jump other then d8 to e2?


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## bretthbmx (Jun 20, 2007)

bretthbmx said:


> My mk3 cluster illumination isn't working when I turn on the headlights, is there something else you have to jump other then d8 to e2?


Well it works now. Bulbs musta been burnt out. I wired in LEDs.


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## mk21.8Tjetta (Jun 3, 2002)

this tread should be sticky'd!! :thumbup::thumbup:

The one in the Hybrid/Swap fuum sucks compared to this:screwy:

Bump it back up!!


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## mk21.8Tjetta (Jun 3, 2002)

anyone know if the mk3 steering rack slides onto the mk2 steering colunm? We are wanting to use the complete power steering system from the mk3 doner (mk2 has manual steering). And will the mk3 rack mount to the mk2 K frame? I'm guessing that both are a yes, but it'd be nice to have an answer rather then taking things apart that don't need to be...


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## bansheelos (Nov 29, 2004)

:thumbup::thumbup:


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## SummerSnow (May 18, 2004)

So in the past two days of wiring my Obd2 swap, the only mystery plug I have left comes out on the ECU side. Is this power and ground for the ECU itself? If so, should power be run to constant, or switched power? 


Fuel pump relay kicks on when I turn the key on, but it doesn't crank. I'm assuming I need to figure out which connection needs a fuse put in it... Any help is appreciated!!


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## SummerSnow (May 18, 2004)

So I have bypassed security, and the clutch safety switch. I now hear the fuel pump priming, and can crank it over. I have 12 volts at the Ecu, coil, and distributor plug, but no spark when cranking. 

Between both obd2 harnesses I have, I do not have this Red/Yellow wire with a red plug that everyone says to jump to constant power to get it to start. I'm trying now to go off of the ecu pin out to see what color wire communication between ECU/Distributor is, bet even then, I'm not sure where to splice it. I have been searching without much luck.


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## bretthbmx (Jun 20, 2007)

My harness didn't have that wire either, pretty sure mine was purple.


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## SummerSnow (May 18, 2004)

Didn't splice anything extra today at all, made a new ground from the tranny to the frame rail (battery is re-located to the trunk), and a new ground for the head to coil pack. Fired up, but the timing needs to be fixed. I did make the d8-E2 jumper with no luck for the cluster. 


Well anyway, here is where I left off after two solid weeks of being in the garage until two in the morning. Trying to get it to a local show this weekend.


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## db3ck (Sep 2, 2011)

so im soon doing a aba swap from a 93 golf in to a ce1 86 jetta, to my understanding i have to use the whole wire harness engine and body from the mk3 to the mk2 what plugs do i have to use and what dont i need, im planning on using the mk3 cluster


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## Randall Alexander (Dec 2, 2010)

Good stuff


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## ShotgunFacelift (Feb 24, 2007)

Super-specific question here...


OBD2 ABA going into CE2 Mk2. I'm keeping the lighting harness but replacing the engine harness and fan wiring (Mk3 thermoswitch on Mk2 radiator and fans) with Mk3 wiring. No A/C whatsoever. I'm in the process of pulling out the wiring harness from the engine bay and have the whole harness to the ECU taken out. Which wires going to the fuse box need to come out and do the Mk3 plugs just go in the same locations? What (if anything ) needs to be jumped? I'm just trying to get the bare minimum to get the car running. I have a Mk2 Bentley at my disposal but no Mk3  

Any help is appreciated.


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## TheArtfulDubber (Jul 18, 2004)

This thread should help with what comes out of the fuse box. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3299652-DIY-2.0L-ABA-Swap!-New-and-Improved!


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## ShotgunFacelift (Feb 24, 2007)

Thank you! I actually just found that thread shortly after posting in this one.


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## TheArtfulDubber (Jul 18, 2004)

NP, I'm sitting with a wire harness in my lap as we speak so I'm fresh on a lot of this


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## ShotgunFacelift (Feb 24, 2007)

I have another issue now. I'm not able to start my car due to a 3rd-party ignition interlock which is locked out at the moment. I have to get the car towed to the place to get unlocked so I wanted to be sure everything is working before bringing it over there. 

1) I'm trying to make sure the starter will turn the motor over but I can't use the key ignition at the moment. Can I just jump jump a wire from battery (+) to Terminal 50 and then jump the two posts on the starter?

2) Fuel pump isn't priming with ignition on. I have the alarm and seatbelt plugs jumped but I can't find the yellow/red wire that needs 12v constant. I think I have a red/white wire with a red plug hooked up to constant 12v though, is that the same one? Does it sound like that could be the issue or does it sound like I fried my ECU?


----------



## maine86gti (Dec 9, 2011)

thanks for the helpful info this will be great for my first project/swap


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## nhsccdp (Mar 30, 2006)

*Trying to clear things up*

I know there is a lot of info out there for this swap but i have a few questions that i cannot find,
this is an obd2 aba ce2 swap and i am using a 97 engine bay wiring harness... 
1)what color wire is connected to z1 currently i have this powered by a jump from switched power
it gives me power to the pump and fuel to the rail when power is switched on but i thought it was supposed to also power the fuel injectors
2) do i plug something into y4 for motronic pin 19
3) i do get spark when i am cranking it and can feel fuel on the return line but engine will not start when cranked
4)how do i know if the computer is getting power properly (without wiring in my obd2 diagnostic port, i just need to move the car then ill wire it in
5) can anyone send a picture of there ce2 box wired up properly for this because pictures are worth a million words
thank you


----------



## mk21.8Tjetta (Jun 3, 2002)

We are swapping an aba from a 96 jetta donor into a 92 jetta, and the mk3 power steering rack has a different spline then the power steering rack from the mk2. Anyone have any ideas? I was under the impression that mk2 and 3 shared the same power steering rack.

The knuckle it totally different on the end of the steering colunms too. Anyone have advice?? Thanks!


----------



## andrewmilie (Oct 25, 2010)

When using the mk3 radiator it was mentioned to use the*passat 16V front cross member am i correct in thinking that is the lower beam for the motor mount and does anybody know hard it is to pull one. I am pretty sure it.is just jack the motor up pull it and lower the motor am i right?


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## ShotgunFacelift (Feb 24, 2007)

andrewmilie said:


> When using the mk3 radiator it was mentioned to use the*passat 16V front cross member am i correct in thinking that is the lower beam for the motor mount and does anybody know hard it is to pull one. I am pretty sure it.is just jack the motor up pull it and lower the motor am i right?


The front lower radiator support? I know you can use any Mk2 or Mk3. Unsure about Passat.


----------



## andrewmilie (Oct 25, 2010)

ShotgunFacelift said:


> The front lower radiator support? I know you can use any Mk2 or Mk3. Unsure about Passat.


That's what i was thinking, I'll find out when i go to bolt things together though. the first post mentioned the passage crossmember


----------



## sixteenvalve (Jun 13, 2002)

smokinjoe644 said:


> MORE WIRING HELP CAN BE FOUND HERE: http://mysite.verizon.net/e.sese/x-flow_swap.html


Is this site still up somewhere? Anyone have it backed up?


----------



## millermk2.0 (Feb 17, 2012)

*speedocable*

where can i get a speedocable from???:banghead:


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## TheArtfulDubber (Jul 18, 2004)

GAP.

http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Golf/Transmission/41/1


----------



## nothing-leaves-stock (Mar 1, 2005)

just wanted to add this for more EASE of install and help.

*a few new products we are releasing this month for the ABA mk1/mk2 swap!*

-we are building "plug and play" ABA OBD2 stand alone harness that will only need 3(for mk1) and 4(for mk2) wires to hook up to your car. it can be install in 10 minutes to run and then tuck time to make it pretty! no need to cut any of your car harness or splice into it AT ALL! (a few other wires are built in IF you wish to use them, VSS, cel, obd2 port etc, but not needed to run)

-we will have non ac pulley and belt setups


---for mk1 mostly... the throttle body drop plate! no need to flip, no throttle cable on top of he intake, no cutting, no drilling and no mods to the hood to fit the TB!
install pictures coming today! will come with bolts and 2 gaskets. fully CNC'd from billet aluminum.











level with intake..no clearnace issue now!


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## mk21.8Tjetta (Jun 3, 2002)

nothing-leaves-stock said:


> -we are building "plug and play" ABA OBD2 stand alone harness that will only need 3(for mk1) and 4(for mk2) wires to hook up to your car. it can be install in 10 minutes to run and then tuck time to make it pretty! no need to cut any of your car harness or splice into it AT ALL! (a few other wires are built in IF you wish to use them, VSS, cel, obd2 port etc, but not needed to run)


tell me more!! The hardest, or most painfull part actually, of the swap is pulling the wiring out of the mk3. If you guys make a simple and affordable solution, I'm very interested!!

wondering tho, what if the engine is obd1? Does it use the oem ecu? Looking forward to your response


----------



## nothing-leaves-stock (Mar 1, 2005)

obd2 harness's will be on sale this week. we are working on obd1 but they still will be a little while...maybe a month or 2.

harness's are $425 shipped or $350 is you have a core


----------



## TheArtfulDubber (Jul 18, 2004)

Any updated ETA on the TBA? I am starting to have dreams about it.


----------



## Xeny (Feb 3, 2011)

Can anyone who has finished this swap, can you take a pictures of your fuse panel and post them? I pulled a bad aba swap out of the car and put my ABAt in. Everything is gravy in the bay but there isnt any power going back to the Fuse panel. 

What goes into 30 and 30b, just connect them together or split the power and send it into both

Does the brown ground go to z2?

Is there a yellow clip going into z1?


----------



## sixteenvalve (Jun 13, 2002)

Xeny said:


> Can anyone who has finished this swap, can you take a pictures of your fuse panel and post them? I pulled a bad aba swap out of the car and put my ABAt in. Everything is gravy in the bay but there isnt any power going back to the Fuse panel.
> 
> What goes into 30 and 30b, just connect them together or split the power and send it into both
> 
> ...


http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html

30 and 30b should have a red jumper wire going between them
Z1 is injector power
Z2 is just the ground


----------



## sixteenvalve (Jun 13, 2002)

I believe this is the injector wire:


----------



## Xeny (Feb 3, 2011)

Alright Ill look at it tomorrow. Thanks for the info, ill try this out and hope she starts up! :thumbup::thumbup:

If not ill be back


----------



## TheArtfulDubber (Jul 18, 2004)

sixteenvalve said:


> http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html
> 
> 30 and 30b should have a red jumper wire going between them
> Z1 is injector power
> Z2 is just the ground


30 and 30b have a jumper between them in a MkII by default, but for the swap they should be spliced together with main power. 

The black/yellow in that photo is fan controller power and has nothing to do with the injectors. Splice it into something with switched power.

Z1 is a large red and yellow wire with a yellow connector.


----------



## Xeny (Feb 3, 2011)

TheArtfulDubber said:


> 30 and 30b have a jumper between them in a MkII by default, but for the swap they should be spliced together with main power.
> 
> The black/yellow in that photo is fan controller power and has nothing to do with the injectors. Splice it into something with switched power.
> 
> Z1 is a large red and yellow wire with a yellow connector.


 Thats what I saw on some swaps DIY's with the main power. How would I do that? Just t the main power into two and attach to the jumper plugs?


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## TheArtfulDubber (Jul 18, 2004)

Either cut the jumper in half and splice it into a Y, or strip the center half inch of insulation off and solder the interior power wire to the bare section. Either way you'll get two powered plugs for 30 and 30b. Soldering wire that thick requires either a serious iron, a torch, or a crimp instead of solder. 

There is also a factory splitter available but the one I got was loose as hell so I just ended up soldering with a torch.


----------



## Xeny (Feb 3, 2011)

Couldnt you also just put the main power wire into y3? 

When I try that, I hear my fuel pump running. (this is also the inline pump that i hear running, I still need to check the one in the tank)


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

30-30b powers the fuel pump. Z1 is injector power plus other engine stuff off the fuel pump relay output. This is only on obd2. You need to make sure you have the correct Ecu relay. Y1 should get battery power from fuse panel.


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## [email protected] (Sep 27, 2008)

Ok after swapping my 92 GTI over to a aba turbo and running it for a month I got tried of the speedo and the odometer not working so I'm swapping in the stock mk3 cluster. Seems to be easy as it says on the first page of the thread you need to run a jumper wire from D8-E2. My question is which one is which I have the Bentley out and it says onthing about D8 or E2 in the fuse box either does the car. If anyone could help me find which wires to jump that would be great, thanks.


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

It's in the Bentley. Jump e2 to d8 and your cluster will work.


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## Xeny (Feb 3, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> Ok after swapping my 92 GTI over to a aba turbo and running it for a month I got tried of the speedo and the odometer not working so I'm swapping in the stock mk3 cluster. Seems to be easy as it says on the first page of the thread you need to run a jumper wire from D8-E2. My question is which one is which I have the Bentley out and it says onthing about D8 or E2 in the fuse box either does the car. If anyone could help me find which wires to jump that would be great, thanks.


Russell, what engine management are you using? C2 or Standalone?


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## mk21.8Tjetta (Jun 3, 2002)

manfredwerner said:


> for the vss, can i use regular ce cluster with no maf function and have the engine run?





bonesaw said:


> yes you dont need OBD port. you dont have to have the VSS wire hooked up but you MIGHT experience a fuel cut when hammering on the car. usually in 3rd and 4th over 5500rpm.


THis has been mentioned in here but I've found a different way to solve it. This is the problem I was having...

(this is from a diff thread)


hatter36 said:


> Motronic cuts the motor if you hold revs above 5000 for 2-3 seconds... try it while idling sometime.


I was hitting a "rev limiter" in 3rd and 4th when I was really on it. My MK2 doesnt have a MAF cluster so I couldnt use T28 like others were saying to use.... 

(from diff thread)


vdubzkikazz said:


> the wire for the vss signal is connector T68/65 at the ecm it is a light blue and white in color. check continuity for that wire from the ecm and the instrument cluster most likely that wire is cut some where.
> good luck..
> 
> the connector at the instrument cluster is t28/1 so what you want to do is using a dvm(digital volt meter) turn to read ohms (continuity)and hook one end to t68/65 and the other end to t28/1 and you should get 0.5 on the reading if you get error than the wire is cut somewhere.


Instead, I used T28/07 at the cluster which is a Violet wire, and is a Speed sonsor output. I ran a wire from there to T65 at the ECM which is light blue with a white strip, and is the Vehicle Speed Sonsor input.

It worked perfectly! I dont know how the wiring was messed up in the first place. I got it out of another mk2 that another guy did the swap in. No idea how he didnt notice it cutting out....

It also fixed the bogging/stalling problem when coming to a stop. When the ECM gets a signal that the car is moving slow I guess it knows to not let the rpms drop right off....? No idea, but it runs much better 

http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/electrical.html


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## asumsatlil (Sep 25, 2012)

is the VAG-COM required for the swap?


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## nothing-leaves-stock (Mar 1, 2005)

no


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## mk21.8Tjetta (Jun 3, 2002)

...but its nice to have.


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## Criznazee (Nov 22, 2011)

i didnt see the answer to this, but i skipped a page or two... hopefully someone will know...

its an aba swapped, ce2 upgraded 86 golf.... obd2, and mfa cluster (with all wires sourced from mfa cars... FWIW)....
i have sourced the outside air temp gauge, and i know the oil temp gauge is a different gauge to replace the oil pressure one (i think, anyways) but...

my MFA options dont seem to be showing up. does not turn on at all. it is a MK2 cluster.... will the mfa stuff not show up on a mk2 cluster with an obd2 comp?


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## syncrogti (Sep 5, 2005)

nothing-leaves-stock said:


> obd2 harness's will be on sale this week. we are working on obd1 but they still will be a little while...maybe a month or 2.
> 
> harness's are $425 shipped or $350 is you have a core


Are these still available?


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## syncrogti (Sep 5, 2005)

Sorry, couldn't find it elsewhere. trying to do a swap while out of state on contract and don't have my Bentley. is there a wiring diagram that shows which wires to keep on the donor harness? bonesaw?


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

Plug harness into ce2 panel, done. 


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## syncrogti (Sep 5, 2005)

bonesaw said:


> Plug harness into ce2 panel, done.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Yes, I want to clean it up, and only keep the three engine harness connectors on the fuse block and get rid of the lighting and so forth.

Brown is ground, red w/yellow is key on? red w/white is continuous? I can wait until I get my Bentley, just wanted to stay busy.


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

Untape whole harness and you’ll get an idea of what to take out. If you are leaving the stock lighting harness the 3 yellows can come out. But then you will need to splice for turns on dash. 

I generally use all the mk3 stuff firewall forward. And then just change the headlight connectors to H4 if that’s what car has. Maybe cut out SAI relay. 


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## veedubboy91 (May 10, 2008)

Hey I got mine swapped obd 1 runs and drives, but once it comes off cold start cycle there is a very prominent loss of power, and the motor seems labored under throttle, any ideas anyone?


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## volcom06 (Aug 3, 2010)

Bringing this back from the dead with some noob questions.

Context: 
90 Digifant1 Jetta 
Donor: OBD1 ABA 


After deleting the headlight harness and some other connectors that I hope weren't important I have the following left. I still have all the plugs I got rid of so can get those if needed.










I've plugged it all into the fuse box, no issues there. 4 white and 1 yellow plugged in.
This is how I have the power plugs arranged.. not sure if this is correct?
From battery -> 30
From battery -> Y4
Y3 -> 30b










My harness doesn't have an 'injector wire' to plug into Z1. 

I also don't know if I have the plug for the clutch safety lockout? I have a green plug pictured below, but not sure if I need to jump this:










One last thing, the negative wire going to the engine bay is on a different harness so I didn't initially pull that. The negative goes from Z2 on the fuse box to a nut in the engine bay. The mk3 obd1 harness has the same thing. I know this may seem basic but I'm not just sure.. What should I do with the second negative wire near the fuse box now? I'd like to keep it all stock without splicing. Should I plug it into the ground panel up above the fuse box or do I need to splice it?

This is what the engine bay looks like with the two different ground wires








The positive you see in that pic is going from Battery -> 30 on the fuse box.

Thanks guys, appreciate the help :heart:


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## volcom06 (Aug 3, 2010)

volcom06 said:


> This is how I have the power plugs arranged.. not sure if this is correct?
> From battery -> 30
> From battery -> Y4
> Y3 -> 30b



I don't think this is correct judging by this post - https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthr...-Improved!&p=77342956&viewfull=1#post77342956

According to that I just need:
From battery -> 30
From battery -> 30b

Remove jumper: Y3 -> 30b

The Y4 thing makes sense because this is on A2resource: Motronic ECU Pin 19, Fuel Pump After-Run Control Unit (G60)
From what I understand that is probably a Digifant1 thing only.


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## Butcher (Jan 31, 2001)

Love to hear what you found


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## volcom06 (Aug 3, 2010)

Butcher said:


> Love to hear what you found


Im not able to try and fire it up yet due to no radiator, but after reading more and looking closer, I think it just need to ignore the mk3 battery pos cable.

Looking at a2resource I only need to do the following:
Battery pos -> Y3
30/30b wire jumper 
-> reasoning, and from what I understand, Y/03 outside the fusebox is Battery Positive, and inside is Main Fusebox Battery Power. Connector -30, inside the fusebox is Main Fusebox Battery Power, outside is -30B, so clearly this needs to go to 30B. -30B inside is the Fuel Pump Relay Input, which will trigger the fuel.

or
Battery pos -> Y3
Use jumper connector from mk3 on 30/30b
Batter pos -> jumper

I dont like the idea of using the mk3 jumper because the ends dont securely clip into it.

My confusion was cause by myself not looking at what I had already in the car, and making assumptions. I'll most likely not use the additional battery pos cable that is in the mk3 wiring loom, as I don't want to splice it in somewhere just to use it. Unless I can just plug it into Y4 or something if that's harmless? Not sure.

Hope I'm understand this all correctly. This is my first time doing anything like this.


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## Rapid Decompression (Dec 5, 2004)

In the middle of my swap. Car wont crank. However if I ground the brown and blue wire our of the starter relay...it fires. I also notice the ground goes over to L4.. where it shares two wires going into the same pin.. the other wire going into it is attached to the bus bar ground. If I run a jumper from the bus bar to chassis ground..it also starts. 








This is the bus bar that if I ground to chassis ground..the car fires. Is this supposed to be switched ground or something??


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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

Rapid Decompression said:


> In the middle of my swap. Car wont crank. However if I ground the brown and blue wire our of the starter relay...it fires. I also notice the ground goes over to L4.. where it shares two wires going into the same pin.. the other wire going into it is attached to the bus bar ground. If I run a jumper from the bus bar to chassis ground..it also starts.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


so it starts and runs???


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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

I always wondered about that earth block. it's neither insulated or secured well:sly: makes me doubt that it actually earths to the body through that.


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## Rapid Decompression (Dec 5, 2004)

If I ground the bus bar it does. The bus bar does not read ground unless I ground it to body with a jumper. 


__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view









I went to my other MK2 to see how the two compare and the bus bar on that car is grounded. Even better, I removed the ground on the top left to see if it had any effect on if it cranks or not...and it didnt crank over when I removed that ground. I reconnected the ground..and now the second car wont start at all LOL 

So the first car I was swapping only start with the bus bar grounded, and the second cart wont crank at all. Kinda at a loss right now


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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

the thick black wire might actually be the "main" earthing point for the smaller brown ones. you don't seem to have the thick black one in the pics above.


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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

I will have a look at mine later to see how many wires attach to it. mines a digifant ce2 so not sure how similar they would be.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Black is NEVER an earth in VW <- Edit, I see the brown Plug. hmm, perplexing... Def an Earth, but factory?? Might be time to search A2resource.com

The BussBar "should" be grounded to the Body. Perhaps the Ground from the Batt to the Body directly behind the Batt tray is kaput?


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Also, the one Buss Bar has some serious Corrosion buildup. That is a problem in itself ! I would remove it and clean all terminals including the mounting points. In addition to the Ground to Body I mentioned above, I believe there is a Ground from the Batt directly to the Buss bar on CE2. Been a while...


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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

Rapid Decompression said:


> If I ground the bus bar it does. The bus bar does not read ground unless I ground it to body with a jumper.
> 
> 
> __
> ...


hope you haven't fried the ecu on the other mk2 you could just clean the contact points and put a self tapper through it. a little tidier than adding another cable to earth it.


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## Rapid Decompression (Dec 5, 2004)

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view









So thought I would post a update On the car That I drive and was using to compare wiring, I checked the seatbelt switch and it was working right. While looking at the fuse box again I check the ground for the relay for the starter *brown/black wire * and it was not grounded. SO I traced it back to where it split and one of the wires grounds off at the bus bar .*the lower middle wire in the pic without a plastic cover*..I checked the bus bar and again it was grounded. Perplexed I stared checking ground on the wire side and of course the wire I traced back to the bus bar had no ground. I pulled the connector off and cleaned it with scuff pad. Plugged it in and it fired.












As far as the ABA swapped car, I have no idea why the bus bar and fuse box holder doesn't have ground already, but I just ran a wire from the post to the box...the wire with my finger on it is the one I added 









Now I need to get the tech working. From what I read, you run a ground from the coil to something on the tach. Seems like there would be a way to just run a jumper near the fuse box or something. Today I got fluids in it and let it get to temp and checked for leaks. I need to get the tech working...get the fans in and swap the connector..maker sure they work ect. I also need to get the OBD port in and order a chip that removes secondary 02 ect. I have two questions. Where did you put the fan control module and ECU?


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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

the wire with your fire???:what: looks factory fresh btw:thumbup:


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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

just checked mine. looks the same as your second pic in post #158


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## Rapid Decompression (Dec 5, 2004)

garryt said:


> the wire with your fire???:what: looks factory fresh btw:thumbup:


LOL...fixed. And thanks..it is getting there. I need to update the thread for it
https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7127114-PNW-MK2-build-take-2

Need to find a good photo hosting service


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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

any engine mods done/planned?


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## Rapid Decompression (Dec 5, 2004)

garryt said:


> any engine mods done/planned?


For the ABA car..not as of yet. I just wanted something solid and reliable and the swap kinda fell in my lap. Plus I am tearing into another car ..prob vrt..btw I am trying to get these pics restored 
https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7790841-Got-me-another-funky-white-MK2


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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

just finished a 3a block swap into my mk2. nice little hike in grunt at low rpms. notice increase in torque at 2k rpm. what mileage is on your aba?


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## Rapid Decompression (Dec 5, 2004)

Yeah they are stout for what they are. I miss my first one. This motor..fuel tank...wiring ect came out of a EXes cart she wrecked but took care of. Think it had 170K on the clocks.


I am having a hard time finding a chip that deletes the secondary o2..anyone have a line on one?


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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

why you want to delete it? you running de-cat?


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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

is there anything you can plug in, in place of the lambda just to keep the ecu happy?


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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

garryt said:


> is there anything you can plug in, in place of the lambda just to keep the ecu happy?


wonder if you could splice the wiring from both into the 1st one?


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## Rapid Decompression (Dec 5, 2004)

Yeah no cat..plus i just want a tune. Weird there used to be places all over selling ABA chips...now it seems a bit more limited


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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

can it not be re-mapped on the standard chip?


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## Rapid Decompression (Dec 5, 2004)

garryt said:


> can it not be re-mapped on the standard chip?


I mean if I had someone to do that ..I suppose


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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

there must be someone close by that can do it. my mate had his focus st done in a supermarket car park by a fellow with a lap top:laugh:


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## Rapid Decompression (Dec 5, 2004)

Where are you guys placing your ECU and fan control module ?


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

Rapid Decompression said:


> Where are you guys placing your ECU and fan control module ?


Rain tray between air intake for heater and smashing into the wipers when they run. There is a sweet spot. 

Fan module below coolant ball. Make a bracket or bolt and cut a chunk out of the coolant ball plastic where bolt goes. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Rapid Decompression (Dec 5, 2004)

I am confused about the tach
I searched and some threads and keep coming across this...quoted identically from a few people but I dont understand. 


> T28/10 Tachometer U1/06 Green Green Green
> 
> Reference
> 
> ...


[/QUOTE]
So can I do this without running a ground from the coil to the tach? I ran a ground from the coil post to G1/12 and cart wouldn't start. Ran it to U1/06 and the tach works. But can this be done just on the fuse box side of things?


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## Tomjr (Aug 8, 2012)

Rapid Decompression said:


>


Couple questions on the throttle cable bracket? Did you grind the nub off or drill a hole for it too? 
&
Drilling and tapping the intake for the bolt, does it go all the way through into the plenum where there's air flowing? Does it cause a vacuum leak if so? If it doesn't go in all the way is it a shorter bolt you're using?

Thanks in advance!

Sent from my LML414DL using Tapatalk


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## syncrogti (Sep 5, 2005)

Bolt can go into the manifold and into the airflow without leaks, just get the bolt tight. take the manifold off though so any chips from the drill and tap don't fall into your engine. Or use a shorter bolt and don't go all the way through.



Tomjr said:


> Couple questions on the throttle cable bracket?
> Drilling and tapping the intake for the bolt, does it go all the way through into the plenum where there's air flowing? Does it cause a vacuum leak if so? If it doesn't go in all the way is it a shorter bolt you're using?
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> ...


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## Tomjr (Aug 8, 2012)

Sweet! Thank you! Good call on removing it


syncrogti said:


> Bolt can go into the manifold and into the airflow without leaks, just get the bolt tight. take the manifold off though so any chips from the drill and tap don't fall into your engine. Or use a shorter bolt and don't go all the way through.


Sent from my LML414DL using Tapatalk


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## Rapid Decompression (Dec 5, 2004)

Yeah I just tapped it and used thread locker on it..no leaks


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## volcom06 (Aug 3, 2010)

Hey all, have my ABA swap 98% of the way done.

Car cranks, and it sounds like it fires once, then just stumbles while it's driven by the starter.

Pic of my fuse panel









I've done the following tests:
Crank position sensor
- 916 ohms on the cps plug (is this too high?)
- Same reading on pins 67/68 on ecu connector

Coil
- Between 2 connectors under flap - 1200 ohms - tried 2 different coils both had the same reading
- From sp wire feeding the dizzy to terminal 15 - 3200 ohms
Used https://www.google.com/amp/s/forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3527387&amp=1

Tested continuity from coil plug, all good
- Brown to ground
- Black/red to pin 8 on ecu connector

All plug wires are seated correctly.

Do I need to do something like this? https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthr...-Improved!&p=67465549&viewfull=1#post67465549

It seems like the car wants to start, it fires probably once then just stumbles. It smells of gas after I try to start it a couple times, so it must be getting gas. That's why I checked the ignition system to make sure it's getting spark.

Thanks


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

volcom06 said:


> Crank position sensor
> - 916 ohms on the cps plug (is this too high?)
> - Same reading on pins 67/68 on ecu connector


It's high and out of spec. Should be 500-700 ohms.


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## volcom06 (Aug 3, 2010)

zero. said:


> It's high and out of spec. Should be 500-700 ohms.


Really appreciate the reply! I'll look at getting that replaced and go from there.


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

I'll just add that before you replace you should check if the tach is moving while cranking. If it's not, then it's most likely the sensor. 500-700 ohms is what's stated in the Bentley manual. The ones I've had that were definitely bad that caused stalling and/or starting issues all had readings over 1k.


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## volcom06 (Aug 3, 2010)

zero. said:


> I'll just add that before you replace you should check if the tach is moving while cranking. If it's not, then it's most likely the sensor. 500-700 ohms is what's stated in the Bentley manual. The ones I've had that were definitely bad that caused stalling and/or starting issues all had readings over 1k.


Thanks, I believe I saw that posted elsewhere as well. 

Only thing.. my tach didn't work before the swap  kind of flying blind in that regard. I figured it would be cheaper to grab a new crank position sensor than buy a new cluster. Eventually I'll need a new cluster or try to diagnose why mine isn't working. 

I was thinking of connecting the coil to the tach signal wire to see if that would get it to work, but I'll need to car running first.


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

Yeah, I'd just try the sensor then. Dead tach could be a bad stepper motor. Pretty easy to solder a new one in if you want to retain the cluster mileage instead of replacing the cluster. Part # for them is 91255002


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## volcom06 (Aug 3, 2010)

Was following this post here https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthr...t-of-parts&p=49496328&viewfull=1#post49496328

I have a solid ground
I have constant at 54
*I do not have switched at 23*

My assumption is that the ecu isn't getting powered on because of a bad ecu relay. I have a black 109 relay in there now. 

Hoping I can find one locally quick


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## volcom06 (Aug 3, 2010)

Replaced the 109 relay with a newer version one and still nothing. 

Am I supposed to get power to pin 23 on ecu connector when the key is in the on position (battery light comes on) or cranking position? 

I confirmed continuity from pin 6 on relay 3 to pin 23 on the ecu connector. The relay just isn't getting switched on..


Edit:
Going off of my mk3 Bentley..









I tested continuity from the G1/7 pin to pin 9 on the ecu connector, all good. 
When I test from pin 5 on the relay 3 to pin 9 on the ecu connector I get nothing.. I'm assuming this should work? 

My understanding is this pin turns on the relay for everything? Ugh this is driving me crazy. I've gone through so many tests..


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## volcom06 (Aug 3, 2010)

Well I have fuel, spark and it cranks so I'm going to assume my swap is done and working for the most part 👍

Now it seems I have more ABA related issues, maybe a dead ECU, or a stuck fuel pressure regulator? Who knows.


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