# DIY: Coolant bottle delete



## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

*Special thanks to TylerO23*

Do this at your own risk and discretion. This is not a mod for everybody.

By doing this mod, you will essencially eliminate the "easy" oem way to check and refill coolant level. You also run a significant risk to overheating. Be aware of all the risks you are taking, if still you want to do it, if still you want to proceed, keep on reading.

First off, lets understand the OEM water cooling system:

The bottle or bubble, is a KEY part on the system. It works as an overflow bottle, refill station and its the pressure keeper of the system as well.

Through the top, on the 1/4" feed is the overflow "in".
on the bottom its the "out". From here its where it draws any extra/.needed coolant.
reference pic:


















*Deleting*
To delete the bottle, and the OEM system you need to, in a nutshell, to cap off all the overflow locations (2), and create a new fill point.

the over flow locations are two: One on top of the upper rad hose, and one on the heater core.
On the pic you can see the upper rad hose (big line) with upper overflow (the smaller line)









the overflow line then goes to the side timing cover (hard line) and as you can see here, it also goes to the heater core (near the fire wall)









So, find something suitable and cap it off. Make sure it creates a perfect and durable seal, as it will be under pressure.

Then follow the line from the bottom of the bottle, and cap it off on the metal hard line. It will be under the manifold.
To reach it, i had to remove my manifold, you may have to do so as well.

On the pic, the hose was still attached to the hard line.









once everything is capped off, you will need to create a fill location.
For it and with the techical help of TylerO23 i bought an inline filler, and proper cap: 19-21 lbs.

Measure on the upper rad hose, and properly cut. 
Getting the lines attached will be a tad hard. They are 1.25" in ID. I washed the lines with water, used some force and WD-40 to slip em in, and clamped them. Then rinse again to remove all traces of WD-40









At this point, this is how things might look like (i have some wires relocated/tucked and battery on trunk)









All you have left to do is to buy/make a coolant overflow bottle. IT HAS TO BE OPEN, not a pressurized bottle.

this is my temporary bottle:


















How it works:
Contrary to vw, many other automakers prefer this style (inline fill). its cheaper, and simpler... BUT it isnt fool proof.
This is standard on JEEP and TOYOTA, to the very least.

Once you fill the coolant on the lines, and you add a little on the bottle you will be ready to go. The way it works, as mentined is simple: if the system is hot, it will send the overflow to the bottle. Since its "pushed" and there is no pressure on the recieving bottle, it works fine. IF THERE IS PRESSURE ON THE BOTTLE, THE FLUID WONT MOVE EITHER WAY!!!
so, it pushes extra coolant to the bottle, and if it were to need any extra coolant it would just suck it.

The location of the bottle is irrelevant because its not a gravity dependent system, but the hose has to be submerged on the water in order to be able to suck the coolant.

pic of toyota's corolla oem cooling:









I opened the cap, and it has a little hose touching the floor of the reservoir to suk the coolant.

----------------
Again, i am not responsible if you **** your car, if you overheat it, etc.


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## christofambrosch (Jul 5, 2011)

Good info and write up, Fred. :thumbup:


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

KIDVersion 1 said:


> Good info and write up, Fred. :thumbup:


thanks! 

this is supposed to be on your to do list!


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## christofambrosch (Jul 5, 2011)

thygreyt said:


> thanks!
> 
> this is supposed to be on your to do list!


Haha. It just may be added for the Winter.


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

just for reference, i spent less than $60 in the whole thing... the hose and zip ties i had at home, the inline fill and cap were purchased at amazon with free shipping, and the bottle was on sale at target for $3. $6 for the caps, and i reused many of the oem clamps.


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## v408w (Jun 5, 2011)

Need to do this great write up


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## TylerO28 (Jul 7, 2008)

Figured a few helpful pics could be useful... This is my original AND still faultless design. I've not ever even had to add g12 coolant 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## mc12000 (Jan 20, 2009)

Great write up! Not sure if I'm ready for this but maybe one day. Still need to get my Timing chain cover looking 1/2 as good as yours!


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## TylerO28 (Jul 7, 2008)

Just polish it. It's a simple process. Get some polishing rouge and a wheel and get after it with a drill. I did mine a few years back before the turbo...not it can't even really be seen. But it seriously grabs the eye. 
Anyone that might be thinking of doing this, should seriously look into it. It's so much more tidy looking

Sent from the bottomless pits of HELL!


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## Thagodeus (Nov 14, 2010)

My 2.5's bay is so dirty and ugly I'm afraid where I should even start to clean it at...this looks clean though.


Tapatalkin'


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

Thagodeus said:


> My 2.5's bay is so dirty and ugly I'm afraid where I should even start to clean it at...this looks clean though.
> 
> 
> Tapatalkin'


we all started on the same engine bay! we can do it, so can you.


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## Thagodeus (Nov 14, 2010)

Haha thanks for the inspiration, I may try to tackle this thing eventually. It was just not taken care of, at all..


Tapatalkin'


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## Thagodeus (Nov 14, 2010)

Edit: tapatalk fail..


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## mmrabbit (Jun 27, 2008)

Great job bro!!!


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## mc12000 (Jan 20, 2009)

TylerO28 said:


> Just polish it. It's a simple process. Get some polishing rouge and a wheel and get after it with a drill. I did mine a few years back before the turbo...not it can't even really be seen. But it seriously grabs the eye.
> Anyone that might be thinking of doing this, should seriously look into it. It's so much more tidy looking
> 
> Sent from the bottomless pits of HELL!


Nice yea I have only done wet sanding by hand and then mothers polish by hand. I need to go buy me a polishing wheel soon. Thanks man.


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

mc12000 said:


> Nice yea I have only done wet sanding by hand and then mothers polish by hand. I need to go buy me a polishing wheel soon. Thanks man.


I usually do wet sanding, upping the grit until I reach the 2000. Then I do 2000 with wd-40. And the buff it with a drill attatchment.
And mainting it clean with simply green and mothers polish.

Lots of work, but IRS a better and a more durable polish.

Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk 2


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## mc12000 (Jan 20, 2009)

Great thanks again!  And if you haven't already sold it let me know if your going to sell that rad cap


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

mc12000 said:


> Great thanks again!  And if you haven't already sold it let me know if your going to sell that rad cap


I think its sold.. I have to get him the ship quote... Lol.

Thanks for reminding me!

Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk 2


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## mc12000 (Jan 20, 2009)

No problem, now I will stop cluttering up your DIY thread. :laugh:


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## christofambrosch (Jul 5, 2011)

Here's a question: is there a limit to the length of tubing to the over flow bottle? For example, could the bottle be tucked into the fender and just run a line to it? Or does it have to be a shorter line?


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

KIDVersion 1 said:


> Here's a question: is there a limit to the length of tubing to the over flow bottle? For example, could the bottle be tucked into the fender and just run a line to it? Or does it have to be a shorter line?


my line is fairly long... ~4 feet

but most people keep it hidden around under the intake pipes, mounted on the rail, etc.

no, i dont think there is a limit to the length... but i also dont think you'll mount it +7 feet away...


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## TylerO28 (Jul 7, 2008)

Mine is less than 3 feet. But it kinda needs to be up inline. Not hanging too low.just for the sake of gravity I'm assuming it needs help feeding or pulling

Sent from the bottomless pits of HELL!


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

TylerO28 said:


> Mine is less than 3 feet. But it kinda needs to be up inline. Not hanging too low.just for the sake of gravity I'm assuming it needs help feeding or pulling
> 
> Sent from the bottomless pits of HELL!


based on what i've seen on mk2s, 3s and 4s, gravity isnt very important.

lol. most of what i have learned i've read from those forums and threads. 
There i learned what to delete, how, resistance, etc.


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## TylerO28 (Jul 7, 2008)

I guess with pressure you kinda already have the ability to push the fluid without any issue

Sent from the bottomless pits of HELL!


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

TylerO28 said:


> I guess with pressure you kinda already have the ability to push the fluid without any issue
> 
> Sent from the bottomless pits of HELL!


exactly


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## christofambrosch (Jul 5, 2011)

So we agree that as long as it's not a stupid length of hose, it could be tucked in a fender?


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

KIDVersion 1 said:


> So we agree that as long as it's not a stupid length of hose, it could be tucked in a fender?


yup!

that too is my plan.


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## christofambrosch (Jul 5, 2011)

Ok sweet. Because I don't want to remove it...just to still have it visible.


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