# Anyone Else Running 5W40 Delo LE Synthetic?



## GXL (Mar 31, 1999)

I just switched to Delo 5W40 synthetic that I bought at Walmart for $18 per gallon, anyone else running this oil?


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## GXL (Mar 31, 1999)

Looks like this:


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## GXL (Mar 31, 1999)

I'm running this oil in my wife's 2014 1.8 TSi


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

yes, on my old Passat 2.0T.

that or Shell Rotella T6, which ever was cheaper and/or in stock at WalMart


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## GXL (Mar 31, 1999)

The only thing I don't like about is the dark color of it when new, quickly turns darker once in the engine for a few hundred miles. 

I have used Rotella before on my mother's Passat 2.0 FSi, great oil, but more expensive than Delo.


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## Fogcat (Apr 29, 2015)

Not on a fanboy curve BUT...Rotella on an older turbo engine can be bad for you. Since our cars burn off oil, it goes through the catalyst. Rotella has components for diesel that damage the CAT. Up to you but you can research this issue by earch. Many have run Rotella with no issue. I have know those who were very sorry to have done so. No disrespect to those who do run it, I understand it is quite good BUT...more dzzp often causes O2/Cat poisoning.


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

It's zddp, replacing a downpipe after 150,000 miles? Didn't bother me.

I'll take that anti-Wear additive for the cam follower on the BPY motor

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## rcprato (Sep 14, 2007)

If it doesn't meet the VW oil spec it doesn't go in my VW Turbo Engines, German made oils that meet VW spec even at $50 a gallon is cheaper than replacing your engine but it is a free country and the choice is yours


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## GXL (Mar 31, 1999)

This Delo LE 400 5w40 is supposed to be as good as Rotella 5w40, but without the excess zddp. Notice the Low Emission label on it.


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

GXL said:


> This Delo LE 400 5w40 is supposed to be as good as Rotella 5w40, but without the excess zddp. Notice the Low Emission label on it.


It's got plenty of zinc and phosphorus, similar to RT6 

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## GXL (Mar 31, 1999)




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## crankyzippycar (Jan 24, 2017)

*My 2 cents worth*

I feel "nothing is more costly than oil. except no oil" the same goes for the topic of this thread, I use Delo LE 15/40 (here in Arizona)in my ALH and change every 3.500K and the engine has loved it, got 377000K on it, no turbo issues or CAT issues, the secret I learned in my HD Mechanic career was, never rebuilt a worn out engine that was serviced, did lots that were not serviced, by serviced I mean clean air filters, quality oil filters, and regular oil changes, the worn out one were with 12 to 15 K hrs, but did a engine with 800 hrs, that had a loose clamp on a air intake, so I have learned a bit, that is why we de oil changes and oil samples, we schedule our service according to findings and conditions, like the manuals say it varies by severity of use. so to me it is what 40 years of my trade has taught me, I don't use synthetics, not that they aren't better they do what they say they do, BUT they too only can take so much Soot,acids, moisture, and the additives that are meant to deal with it is spent, gone, so that is why I change oil and do it often, and have been rewarded..


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## GXL (Mar 31, 1999)

I ran into this while looking for oil threads, long, but worth reading --> https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

I changed the oil recently and there is now Pennzoil Euro 0W40 in there, I picked it up at Walmart for $22 per jug (5 quarts). The next oil change is going to be Mobil 1 0W40 FS without any additives.


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## PowerslavePA (Dec 9, 2014)

Ran DELO400 in my TDI, stopped oil consumption over using Rotella T6.

These are diesel formulated oils, and "should" not be used in gas motors. 

Castrol EDGE 5W40 is much better.


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## PowerslavePA (Dec 9, 2014)

DELO400 is always just under $20.00, and Rotella T6 is always just under $22.00 at walmart.


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## PowerslavePA (Dec 9, 2014)

GXL said:


> I ran into this while looking for oil threads, long, but worth reading --> https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/
> 
> I changed the oil recently and there is now Pennzoil Euro 0W40 in there, I picked it up at Walmart for $22 per jug (5 quarts). *The next oil change is going to be Mobil 1 0W40 FS without any additives.*


If you mean the oil itself has no additives, you would be wrong.

If you mean, you are not going to add anything to the oil when you pour it
in, okay...


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## PowerslavePA (Dec 9, 2014)

OH, and the 15W40 LE is not 100% Synthetic, it is a blend, a mixed fleet motor oil.
They say it out performs leading synthetic blends, but THEIR tests...

You should only be using this in gasoline engines in which the API CJ-4 service 
category AND SAE 15W-40 viscosity grade are recommended. It is not for 
VW gas motors.

It is just a highly refined mineral oil mixture.

If it has "IsoSyn" on the label, it is a blend.

Their 5W40 is Synthetic, which is what I used in my '13 TDI.


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

PowerslavePA said:


> Ran DELO400 in my TDI, stopped oil consumption over using Rotella T6.
> 
> These are diesel formulated oils, and "should" not be used in gas motors.
> 
> Castrol EDGE 5W40 is much better.


Should not be uses in gas motors? Bs. Syntec 5w40 is formulated for 505.00 Also, should you ignore the 502.00 part?

I used RT6 and chevron delo 400 LE on my old passat 2.0t without issues and carbon cleaning at 100,000 intervals.

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## PowerslavePA (Dec 9, 2014)

BsickPassat said:


> Should not be uses in gas motors? Bs. Syntec 5w40 is formulated for 505.00 Also, should you ignore the 502.00 part?
> 
> I used RT6 and chevron delo 400 LE on my old passat 2.0t without issues and carbon cleaning at 100,000 intervals.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


T6 and DELO400 "should" not be used, I said... I guarantee you, you tell your dealer you 
used it, while the car is under warranty, then said warranty is GONE! 

I said use Edge 5W40, so, you actually DID ignore that part... I posted pictures, showing 
Edge 5W40 is 505/502 compliant. 

I also said do not use DELO 15W40, it's a blend, and not for these small engines.

Oh, and my TDI? Went 243,000 miles, no carbon cleaning, ALL original before buyback,
and I did use T6 then DELO400 5W40 in it, NEVER used any 507.00 oil in it, NEVER...

Use whatever you believe works for YOU, that is what I do... It's your car, do what you
want, I do....


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

TDI are a different issue. You have ULSD when you had a TDI, so particulate matter build yogis virtually a non-issue. Back when I had a TDI, PM from diesel was an issue and it didn't matter what oil you used, you got a sticky mess in the intake manifold, unless you did a GET delete or dialed down the EGR PWM.

In the PD days, 505.01 did not provide as much protection to the camshaft compared to HDEO. 

Rt6 and delo 400 LE is better due to lower SAPs(around 1.0 ppm) than 502.00 which in turn slows the build-up of carbon on the valves of gas direct injection engine. The warranty doesn't cover intake valve cleanings

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## GXL (Mar 31, 1999)

BsickPassat said:


> TDI are a different issue. You have ULSD when you had a TDI, so particulate matter build yogis virtually a non-issue. Back when I had a TDI, PM from diesel was an issue and it didn't matter what oil you used, you got a sticky mess in the intake manifold, unless you did a GET delete or dialed down the EGR PWM.
> 
> In the PD days, 505.01 did not provide as much protection to the camshaft compared to HDEO.
> 
> ...




Good point about the carbon buildup.


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## PowerslavePA (Dec 9, 2014)

GXL said:


> Good point about the carbon buildup.


243,000 miles on my TDI, never had issues with carbon.

Carbon build up is mostly due to short trips, when the engine isn't run long
enough to get hot, or is idled for long periods of time. I run 1800 miles a
week, and there is no carbon build up. When you run that long, it burns
out nicely. 

I see people complaining about carbon within 60,000 miles. My TSI is not at
89000+ miles, and the motor doesn't miss a beat, and I haven't even changed
the plugs yet. Just did another oil change yesterday...

For the most part, carbon build up with direct injection is a VW/Audi problem. 

Because gas is not flowing over the intake valves, they're not cleaned, thus
you get it. SO, what about exhaust valves in cars that still do? There is no
gas flowing over those valves, so why is it an intake valve problem and and not
an exhaust valve problem with D.I. motors? CRANK CASE VENT! Adding a 
catch can will severely reduce the risk of carbon build up. The oil mist from the 
CCV or PCV system does flow through the intake system, from the entry point 
and beyond, and it gums up the works. I had a catch can on my TDI... This
oil mist that sticks to the back side of the intake valves, is wet at first, then dries 
with heat, and it just continues to build up and up to an ant-hill looking deposit.


















IT doesn't effect the engine until there is enough on it to interfere with the valve seating. When 
that happens, you lose compression in the effected cylinder(s), and some exhaust will leak
passed it. 

Using a sea-foam like spray cleaner, from the very beginning, at the correct intervals will
HELP keep it under control. They sell that can that has that "U" shaped spray hose, 
that clamps under the intake hose at the throttle body, and it curves around and points
right into the TB assembly; so you can spray it in right into the intake manifold, so if flows 
over the intake valves. I mean, for what it's worth, you can spray gasoline in too, but has 
to be done right. Rev the engine to 2000 steady, and spray it in. *I am not saying it's
a FIX* once it's already too late, but, doing this every so often will keep the mountain of
carbon from forming on the intake valves. What is the correct interval? Well, I guess 
however often you can afford $9.00 a can, every 10-15,000 miles...

I used Marvel Mystery Oil when I had the TDI, did it work? I don't know, but I never, EVER
had a carbon issue, and went the 243,000 miles on all original drive-trian parts...

EGR will also add to carbon build-up, as that sticks to the wetter deposits, and it just compounds.

The type of oil is a factor as well, the more blow-by you get, the more contribution to carbon
build up is possible. Which, as I said elsewhere, T6 -vs- DELO400, I got much much less
with the DELO400. Catch can would fill almost twice between oil changes with T6, but with
DELO400, I got a 1/4 fill with every oil change...

SO, whatever I do, or have done, worked, or I just didn't get the issues. Either way, it didn't 
happen, so I keep doing it. If it makes you feel comfortable, that you are preventing
an issue, then so be it. If I am wasting money, so be it, something is working out, so I
will keep after it.


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

Catch cans do not work to prevent carbon build up on gas direct injection. Been proven on the forums.

While there is no EGR on turbo FSI/TSI engines, the effect is done by valve timing and overlap.

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## PowerslavePA (Dec 9, 2014)

They work, as long as they are REAL catch cans, with the baffling and all. The cheap crap
that is an empty canister with two fittings, does not. There is nothing in them to separate
the oil from the vapor, and does a poor job of catching oil. They reduce the amount of
carbon build up in direct injection engines when installed properly. 

CARBON comes from anything that was organic, and is burned. Oil coats parts, then once
all the moisture is heated out of the oil, it turns into the hard carbon. That mixed with carbon
in exhaust gas... 

NOTHING stops the build up, but preventing more source helps keep it at bay, or from
turning into a huge problem. Some carbon foes burn off, especially when you've
been driving for 6+ hours. The catch can will remove some of the source material
for additional build up. 

Noting PREVENTS, but can slow up...


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## Nadir Point (Jun 1, 2017)

rcprato said:


> If it doesn't meet the VW oil spec it doesn't go in my VW Turbo Engines...


The VW 502 spec is one of the most lenient engine oil specs currently in force. Lots of garbage, cheap oil meets VW 502.



PowerslavePA said:


> These are diesel formulated oils, and "should" not be used in gas motors.


Is that why in the case of Rotella T6 for example, it carries the API SM (gasoline), etc. specs? :facepalm:


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