# PCV: A Cure



## kylegti07 (Apr 4, 2012)

Car: MKV GTI FSI apr stg2, EJ catless DP to stock catback, BSH pcv fix stg1 plate, and other stuff...


Ok so i have been following the numerous threads online about fixing our FSI's pcv systems. I have done a few tests and currently am running a front pcv reroute (bsh stg pcv fix) then i have a 1''ID high heat hose running to a large breather filter under the car. The idea of the system is to reroute all pcv gasses out of the rear port and venting to atmosphere outside the engine bay. 

First test was to see if the line running from the turbo inlet to the rear pcv pulled vacuum on the rear pcv outlet. after testing i found that this pipe pulled a maximum throttle a negligible amount of vacuum and therefore concluded that the rear pcv does not need the turbo evacuation pipe.

Second test was to see how much pressure the rear pcv produced at idle and under boost. my test found that the rear pcv was constantly forcing air out at pressures ranging from 3-5psi at idle then at full boost. 

so with these two tests concluded i ran a large 1'' pipe from the rear pcv down to the front sway bar, where i attached a large breather filter. after 500 miles my oil levels have not changed, i have no residue or blowby in my intercooler pipe, and the car seems peppier in the lower rpms. 

ive been concerned with the carbon deposit issuses and pcv issues with these FSI's for a while now and i think this fix is perfect. if you ever have to go to emissions it takes 10 min to reverse the mod. this is easily the best $40 ive ever spent! Feel free to ask questions if u wanna try it yourself! pics up soon!

kyle


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## creg (Jun 17, 2009)

The pics would be a good Look! I just purchased my 2008 Passat 2.0, and was worried about the same. I'm glad I stumbled on this post!


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## kylegti07 (Apr 4, 2012)

wow ok this is sad i cant figure out how to get the pictures on here, can i email them to someone and have u post them :facepalm: please dont judge my mechanical skills by my typing or computer efficiency haha


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## low_passat (Sep 11, 2010)

The pics have to be hosted on a picture share site. Photobucket, Flicker, Picasa etc.

Once hosted, use that URL and use


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## kylegti07 (Apr 4, 2012)

Anyone willing to host the pictures on their site? I dont have an account like flicker... My email is [email protected] hit me up and ill send all the pics out so someone can post them.... This fix is really cool and effective! The car seems to start easier, spool slightly quicker and the thing i think i like most of all is the very slight scent that is barely noticable at a stop light, it reminds me of riding in my buddys 67 mustang! While i love the smell others may not and should be glad to know that if the windows are up or if u are moving there is no smell what so ever! I definately think all fsi owners should consider this mod! I can send a parts list out as well if anyone wants to know where to get the right parts!


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## kylegti07 (Apr 4, 2012)

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## kylegti07 (Apr 4, 2012)

click view all on the link above for pics!


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## xtravbx (May 21, 2005)

So you have the BSH blockoff plate installed standard way, and the rear is setup to VTA?

Just clarifying


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## glifahrenheitcameron (Sep 14, 2011)

Interesting opcorn:


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## kylegti07 (Apr 4, 2012)

xtravbx said:


> So you have the BSH blockoff plate installed standard way, and the rear is setup to VTA?
> 
> Just clarifying


yup standard set up for the bsh plate and manifold cap. if you dont have the plate you can cap the stock front pcv unit but it looks a bit janky... you should be able to find a used plate for like 60-70 bucks or a new one from ej or bsh for 89-100 bucks


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## kylegti07 (Apr 4, 2012)

ya sry the rear is done vta with my custom tube!


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## xtravbx (May 21, 2005)

kylegti07 said:


> yup standard set up for the bsh plate and manifold cap. if you dont have the plate you can cap the stock front pcv unit but it looks a bit janky... you should be able to find a used plate for like 60-70 bucks or a new one from ej or bsh for 89-100 bucks


Cool. I already have the plate installed, so I may vent my rear tube underneath the car like yours!


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## kylegti07 (Apr 4, 2012)

Great! Give it a go and post how it went! Make sure u get the right hose! Use a 1 inch ID hose thats rate for atleast 160 degrees f. And make sure when you are plugging the metal turbo inlet pipe that u clean the rubber sleeve with alcohol so there is no oil residue that could make the plug slip in or out... And put a band clap around it as i did in the pics.
Good luck! Should take no more than 1 hour with set up and test fitting included. Also i had to cut my hose with a hack saw cause my scissors were not large enough so it helps to put the whole pipe in amd measure to where u wanna cut then take the pipe out and make ur cut then put it all together. As for the filter get the biggest metal one u can find that is a breather filter as it has to fit inside the 1inch id hose. I got mine at autozone for 10 bucks....:beer:


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## Worthlessbackup (Apr 10, 2013)

So what happens to the PCV line that goes to the turbo inlet?


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## kylegti07 (Apr 4, 2012)

it is plugged. that hardline barely pulls vacuum even under boost. all it did was reroute the rear pcv gas into the turbo..... if you look at the second picture in the gallery above you can see 2 band clamps on the rubber hose coming off the hardline. the top band clamp is around the rubber plug that has a gold color bolt through it. i got the plug at autozone for 3 bucks


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## glifahrenheitcameron (Sep 14, 2011)

So this is another area in which the pcv is rerouted into the intake system, so you disconnected it and put a breather filter on it so that it goes atmospheric instead of into the motor....correct?


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## kylegti07 (Apr 4, 2012)

ya basically the way the system works is under boost or with the bsh plate all pcv gas is rerouted out the rear pcv which through the hardline dumps all the **** into the intake track of the turbo. this is where all the **** that is in our intercooler and lines comes from. by plugging the rear pcv inlet to the turbo and letting the rear pcv vta is how my system works. i have a hose coming off the rear pcv so the gas is rerouted under the car then thats where the breather filter is connected :beer:


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## atrociousa3 (Aug 6, 2007)

This post puts me at ease. I had done the slash cut method a while back but was worried that it didn't provide enough vacuum. Now nowing that stock the pcv system provides negligible amounts if vac, I'm not worried about it. Anyone that's on the fence, this method here or the slash cut is worth it. No oil in the intercooler piping and doesn't stumble at idle.


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## kylegti07 (Apr 4, 2012)

thanx for the bump!!

have you measured the vacuum your slashcut is providing? and how many miles are on your system? any buildup i at the nipple/hose connection?

and a little update on my system:
the car idled well before in the high 700's rpm range now it idles at 700 rpm and very quietly, i almost forgot my car was on at a light the other day. im not really sure of the cause for the slightly lower idle but it doesnt feel bad, its very smoothe

very little to no oil in my vta filter and the hose has a little dried pcv gas remnants in it. 

overall car feels great and i know that no new oil is coming into my system


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## Worthlessbackup (Apr 10, 2013)

kylegti07 said:


> thanx for the bump!!
> 
> have you measured the vacuum your slashcut is providing? and how many miles are on your system? any buildup i at the nipple/hose connection?
> 
> ...



Kyle, I'm very interested in this method but am paranoid about over pressurization. You said you measured vaccuum when you were first doing this little project. Have you measure vaccum with the filter on to see if there is an effect?


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## kylegti07 (Apr 4, 2012)

i think you may be mixing up where vacuum was measured, i measured the vacuum that the hardline from the turbo pulled on the rear pcv port. that vacuum was negligible. what that test confirmed was that the rear pcv does not need aid in venting itself to atmosphere. the rear pcv pushes pcv gas out around 3-5 psi soo with this method the rear pcv just pushes gas out down the tube under the car. the 1'' id tube i used is high pressure and high temp and very stiff. these properties ensured that the hose would never be a source of restriction for the rear pcv gas. so to answer your concerns, this method puts no restriction on the venting of pcv gas so it wont build up pressure in the head. and the other great thing about this method is it is easily reversible for emissions testing, if your state is strict. just follow the pictures and only plug the metal hardline as shown

hit me up if you got more questions


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## atrociousa3 (Aug 6, 2007)

nope haven't tested how much vac it creates. don't know how but I do see whats possibly oil shoot out from the exhaust. not much but I rather have it on my driveway than my valves.


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

I guess you'll know if there is too much pressure if you loose your dip stick!


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

What did you use to plug the turbo inlet pipe? I am interested in this set up.


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## sethroid (Apr 19, 2012)

He plugged the hose. But you could remove the hose and install a block-off plate: http://www.intengineering.com/integ...off-plate-for-transverse-2-0t-fsi-tsi-engines


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

Ooh, I like that. 

Cap that off then run a high temp 1" hose under the car with a breather on it, interesting. 

Is the consensus that this is a safe set up?


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## glifahrenheitcameron (Sep 14, 2011)

I'm just trying to wrap my brain around this.

So you unplugged the pipe from the back of the manifold and plugged it, then ran a hose from the open port, and then put a breather filter on the other end of that. correct?


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## kylegti07 (Apr 4, 2012)

yup thats about it...


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## glifahrenheitcameron (Sep 14, 2011)

kylegti07 said:


> yup thats about it...


Cool, i'll get around to doing this soon


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## kylegti07 (Apr 4, 2012)

yup pretty easy to do doesnt take long and parts are cheap lemme know if u need to know where i got the hose from!


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## glifahrenheitcameron (Sep 14, 2011)

kylegti07 said:


> yup pretty easy to do doesnt take long and parts are cheap lemme know if u need to know where i got the hose from!


I'm sure I can find a hose like that at a parts store somewhere in my town 

I may end up routing it to a different location than what you did....not really sure until I actually get around to doing it though.


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

Can you post a link to where you it the hose? Thanks!


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## glifahrenheitcameron (Sep 14, 2011)

Tutti57 said:


> Can you post a link to where you it the hose? Thanks!


Are you asking where to get the hose, or where to put the hose?


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

Sorry, damn phone. I'm wondering where you bought the hose. 

I'd love to block of thy GD inlet on the turbo and never have to mess with it again.


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## kylegti07 (Apr 4, 2012)

ya there was a post on this thread earlier from a vendor that has a block off plate for the side of the turbo inlet, and i got the hose from mcmaster-carr.com just go into the hose section


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## glifahrenheitcameron (Sep 14, 2011)

kylegti07 said:


> ya there was a post on this thread earlier from a vendor that has a block off plate for the side of the turbo inlet, and i got the hose from mcmaster-carr.com just go into the hose section


You can probably come across one also at a local parts or hardware store :thumbup:


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

Ok cool


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

Ok cool.


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## kylegti07 (Apr 4, 2012)

glifahrenheitcameron said:


> You can probably come across one also at a local parts or hardware store :thumbup:


you definitely can just make sure its 1'' id and that it is high heat and kink resistant


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

That's the problem, asking anyone at my local parts store anything that requires thought. 

I went in one time to get a 15mm deep socket and after the guy looked at the labels on at about 10 different size sockets, he concluded that, "it looks like we only have 3/8"." Ok, never mind. 

He didn't know the difference between the drive size and the damn socket.


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## glifahrenheitcameron (Sep 14, 2011)

Tutti57 said:


> That's the problem, asking anyone at my local parts store anything that requires thought.
> 
> I went in one time to get a 15mm deep socket and after the guy looked at the labels on at about 10 different size sockets, he concluded that, "it looks like we only have 3/8"." Ok, never mind.
> 
> He didn't know the difference between the drive size and the damn socket.


Lol. Best thing to do is to find it yourself these days.


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## glifahrenheitcameron (Sep 14, 2011)

kylegti07 said:


> you definitely can just make sure its 1'' id and that it is high heat and kink resistant


So an inch in diameter.....how long of one did you end up using?


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## kylegti07 (Apr 4, 2012)

right at 2 feet to connect where i did. i chose that because it was the shortest distance of hose that still go the hose under the car and away from the exhaust, i assume the shorter the hose the better that way you are guaranteeing and easy restriction free evacuation of gas. the reason for the 1'' id hose is that the rear fitting is 1'' and i figured running anything smaller would put unnecessary on the rear pcv. 

oh and when youre doing this check the torque on your valve cover!!!! when i was installing my system i notice 3 bolts had rattled loose! i replace my vc gasket the next day and torqued everything to spec which is 88in/lb. :beer:


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## glifahrenheitcameron (Sep 14, 2011)

^ Cool, good to know :beer::beer:


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## skateboy_918 (Mar 15, 2013)

I linked the important pictures here direct:


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## brettley (Oct 7, 2011)

Couldn't one arguably get the IE block-off plate, and just put a breather filter with a 1" ID opening on the rear breather port, and call it a day? How important is it really to run it out of the bottom of the car?


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## kylegti07 (Apr 4, 2012)

you sure can do that! only thing is your gonna have one hell of a mess in your engine bay with that **** spraying out! basically the underside of your hood will be coated. this is a problem with vta catch cans. it wont hurt anything but its more work to clean so to each his own! :beer:


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## marshy (Aug 7, 2012)

I would also mention that you want to get it the heck out of the engine bay and under the car somewhere. Easier to clean and no crankcase fumes getting into your A/C intake or blowing into your windows or sunroof. Also make sure that hose is tied up well so as to not come into contact with the exhaust, especially if you have a cat.


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## glifahrenheitcameron (Sep 14, 2011)

I feel like the filter would take some damage from all of the turbo heat if you popped it right onto the back of the manifold.


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

Would it make any different how long the tube is? I was thinking about running it all the way back under my plastic under body and exiting near the rear of the car to avoid fumes at lights.


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## kylegti07 (Apr 4, 2012)

I would recommend short as possible!!!! the longer the tube the higher the restriction of the gases exiting. the idea if the system depends on low restriction so that the rear pcv has enough to pressure to push the gas out. you can easily test it tho the way you would do it is run the pipe to where you want it and then turn the car on, if you can feel pressure exiting the hose with your hand then you are ok but if its faint or you can barely feel it DO NOT DO IT!!!! untimately up to you however the smell combined with my catless dp barely smells compared to my friend 67 mustang! the catless dp smells a ton more compared to the pcv fix and if the window are up at a stop there is no chance of smell! the smell is not as bad as ppl say just try it and you can always reverse it in like 20 min. :beer: also think of your valves eace: haha


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## Tutti57 (Jun 20, 2011)

Ok gotcha. Thanks


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## akhotch (Apr 22, 2013)

quick question. How long since you have done the set up? How are the valves since the set up? If it a huge difference? have plenty of other random questions, but ill leave it as these  thanks for any feedback!


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## kylegti07 (Apr 4, 2012)

well its been almost 3k, i dont have a way to scope the valves so i couldnt tell you how much better the valves are. I can tell you that there is no more residue in the hoses going to the intercooler, prior to the install i took them off and cleaned then and found a ton of oil gritty residue, now they are perfectly clean after 3k!!! also the throttle response seems better, this was immediately felt btw!
please feel free to hit me up with more questions!

kyle


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## thegave (Dec 22, 2008)

Got a link for all the photos?


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## kylegti07 (Apr 4, 2012)

on first page post 6 and 7 for the photos click the view all button


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## Super .:R-Type (Aug 6, 2013)

Kyle,

I have a quick question about this. I completely understand the mod you have done to the rear pcv system. Blocking off crossover to the turbo inlet and instead venting the rear pcv gasses to atmosphere. But can you help me understand the purpose of the BSH pcv plate mod on the front end? What benefit or function does this provide in the overall scope of what you have done?


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## kylegti07 (Apr 4, 2012)

Well what the BSH plate does is reroute the pcv gas at idle. on a fully stock pcv system at idle the gases go out of the front pcv through the saucer (oil separator) and then are pull into the intake manifold through that black plastic flex pipe. the BSH plate eliminates the front pcv system and does not let any gases enter the intake manifold by rerouting it all to the rear pcv, even at idle. Basically the purpose of the plate is to get all the gases to exit at the rear pcv which with my method is vta so therefore the intake and turbo piping are essentially a closed system and no pcv gas can enter it except through a piston ring failure. 


I suppose you could run my system with the stock front pcv, however at idle you will continue to let the pcv gases and carbon deposits build up in the intake manifold, under boost however it would vta. 
hope this helps!! hit me up if anyone has more questions! the more questions i get the more ways i get to test the system and possibly improve the system!:beer:

UPDATE:
i have put together this system to be as bulletproof as possible and after 4.2k i have no oil in my intercooler lines (which used to be dirty as hell!) also oil levels have held the same level as when i started this project, I used to lose about 1/2 quart of oil ever 2k. 


OH one last thing, i have said this before and i will again, EVERYONE check the torque on your valve cover bolts!!!! they should be 88in/lbs! these are very prone to self loosening and can cause major oil leaks and high rpm misfires! just my .02!eace:


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## Super .:R-Type (Aug 6, 2013)

Thanks man, exactly what I needed to know

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## turbopoweredturtle (Oct 23, 2011)

I have a few questions..

1). What is the plug size for the turbo inlet, I see LOWES sells wedge style plugs..

2). If possible do you recall, the diameter of the front pcv valve would be plug size..
(Ill be blocking off my oem front pcv since my oem airbox will cover the mod.

I did this VTA trick on my 02 jetta 2.0L... it worked like a charm!


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## Kelion (Apr 2, 2011)

Does this fix also help with the milky looking oil around the oil fill cap? Also I was investigating that McMaster-carr website OP suggested and looks like most hoses they want to buy in 5ft increments, and the petroleum hose in 1" ID is almost $9/ft. I've already done the BSH fix but this looks like just the ticket to finish it off, and budget friendly heck with spending $400 on a catch can setup which needs to be emptied and perform maintained occasionally. Great post OP!


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## kylegti07 (Apr 4, 2012)

Hey thanx glad u like the idea!
As for plug sizes the rear was the smallest one that autozone or advance auto parts had so like 5/8 maybe... As for blocking the front pcv with a plug, I'm not actually sure you can do this because of the way it routes the gases. At idel the front pcv needs to vent so I would run a hose off the front and rear pcv if you don't have the bsh plate. To cap the intake manifold hose connestion use the smallest plug u can buy at AutoZone. The reason I keep saying AutoZone is their plugs are like 2 dollars soo way. Cheap! 

As for the hosing from McMaster you don't need to run petroleum resistant hose, u can of you want but it is not absolutely nessacary because the amount of oil conning from the pcv system is fairly low, the heat resistant aspect of the hose is much more important. The one. I. Got was rated to 200 degrees f. 

Hope this helps! And keep the questions coming!

Btw I'm am now workin on a way to integrate the stock maf sensor pipe into aftermarket intakes! This should reduce high rpm misfires on cars with aftermarket intakes and chips!

Kyle


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## skateboy_918 (Mar 15, 2013)

kylegti07 said:


> Hey thanx glad u like the idea!
> As for plug sizes the rear was the smallest one that autozone or advance auto parts had so like 5/8 maybe... As for blocking the front pcv with a plug, I'm not actually sure you can do this because of the way it routes the gases. At idel the front pcv needs to vent so I would run a hose off the front and rear pcv if you don't have the bsh plate. To cap the intake manifold hose connestion use the smallest plug u can buy at AutoZone. The reason I keep saying AutoZone is their plugs are like 2 dollars soo way. Cheap!
> 
> As for the hosing from McMaster you don't need to run petroleum resistant hose, u can of you want but it is not absolutely nessacary because the amount of oil conning from the pcv system is fairly low, the heat resistant aspect of the hose is much more important. The one. I. Got was rated to 200 degrees f.
> ...


check this intake out then: http://store.42draftdesigns.com/VW-Mk5Mk6-FSI-High-Flow-Intake-System_p_594.html


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## kylegti07 (Apr 4, 2012)

ya saw that, thats why im perusing a custom way. that 400+ price tag is a bit much. if i didnt already have an intake i would have gone with that one in a heart beat!! i just wanted a way to help other guy and gals in my situation of having an older cia that wants the precise maf measurements of the newest intakes. the process im working on is not that hard and should yield good results!!
also i enquired with them about just buying their maf section but its a no can do


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## low_passat (Sep 11, 2010)

kylegti07 said:


> Btw I'm am now workin on a way to integrate the stock maf sensor pipe into aftermarket intakes! This should reduce high rpm misfires on cars with aftermarket intakes and chips!
> 
> Kyle


There's multiple DIYs already on how to cut the MAF section out of the engine cover and use it with a CAI. 




kylegti07 said:


> ya saw that, thats why im perusing a custom way. that 400+ price tag is a bit much. if i didnt already have an intake i would have gone with that one in a heart beat!! i just wanted a way to help other guy and gals in my situation of having an older cia that wants the precise maf measurements of the newest intakes. the process im working on is not that hard and should yield good results!!
> also i enquired with them about just buying their maf section but its a no can do


They had the MAF section listed on their website a couple of weeks ago for like $125. I guess they changed their mind about selling it separately.


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## itzmehhart (Dec 31, 2004)

http://store.42draftdesigns.com/FSI-MAF-Housing_p_592.html


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## kylegti07 (Apr 4, 2012)

well damn... mine looks pretty good now even tho its just plastic! prolly gonna sack up and buy one soon


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## turbopoweredturtle (Oct 23, 2011)

I plugged the front pcv, with two rubber plugs, leaving only the tube down to the oil filter housing untouched..

After 200 miles switched back to stock.. didn't want to f with it yet..

I also thought to vta the front OEM pcv like the rear vta mod as you described but unsure if that would pull air in thru the front pcv vta when the rear pcv was venting. hmm


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## Onese1f (Sep 16, 2008)

I've got a 42dd catch can setup for the front and my rear pcv makes a **** ton of noise and makes me intake sound like a vibrator. I'm assuming this trick would help patch everything up?


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## kylegti07 (Apr 4, 2012)

ya but if u have a cc all you need to do is take off the metal rear breather tube going from rear pcv to the turbo and punch out the ****ty check valve that is in the metal pipe. this is very easy to do and it will fix the vibrator noise ur hearing or you could just keep ur vibrating rabbit haha it wont hurt anything...


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## FMX_DBC (Feb 15, 2010)

I'm not having any luck finding the 1" ID hose for the rear PCV. Can anyone tell me where they got theirs or where I should try looking? Thanks


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## sethroid (Apr 19, 2012)

I got mine at Napa. Ask for "one-inch inner diameter heater hose."


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## FMX_DBC (Feb 15, 2010)

sethroid said:


> I got mine at Napa. Ask for "one-inch inner diameter heater hose."


Good call on NAPA thanks!


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## majic (Mar 10, 2005)

Yeah, vent to atmosphere FTW


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## aznsap (Aug 7, 2010)

so in theory, is this mod supposed to prevent the carbon buildup on our valves?

any change in MPG? how about those who will experience extreme cold winter seasons?


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## FMX_DBC (Feb 15, 2010)

majic said:


> Yeah, vent to atmosphere FTW


She's running much better already! Easier cold start, smoother idle, more consistent pulls when I mash the loud pedal cause it's not sucking oil:facepalm:


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## majic (Mar 10, 2005)

FMX_DBC said:


> She's running much better already! Easier cold start, smoother idle, more consistent pulls when I mash the loud pedal cause it's not sucking oil:facepalm:


I cleaned my valves and looked again about 30k miles later and they were gunked up. So when I did a new valve job I decided to go with vent to atmosphere because I didn't want my new valves to get gunked up again. I'll check in another 10 or 15k miles and report what I see.

Putting the evaporative emissions in the intake is flawed by design... It's going to go through the intercooler, which acts like a huge oil trap because of the drop in temp (which will result in oil condensation every time).

So far I haven't seen any oil dripping from diverter valve, or intercooler pipes or anything. Valves would be the tell tale, though


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## bmulder (Oct 11, 2012)

majic said:


> I cleaned my valves and looked again about 30k miles later and they were gunked up. So when I did a new valve job I decided to go with vent to atmosphere because I didn't want my new valves to get gunked up again. I'll check in another 10 or 15k miles and report what I see.
> 
> Putting the evaporative emissions in the intake is flawed by design... It's going to go through the intercooler, which acts like a huge oil trap because of the drop in temp (which will result in oil condensation every time).
> 
> So far I haven't seen any oil dripping from diverter valve, or intercooler pipes or anything. Valves would be the tell tale, though


Any update on this? Or from anyone else who has done it?

I'm getting some oil accumulating in the intercooler pipes and my oil consumption has increased quite a bit lately. I'd be interested in trying this to see if it helps. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## majic (Mar 10, 2005)

bmulder said:


> Any update on this? Or from anyone else who has done it?
> 
> I'm getting some oil accumulating in the intercooler pipes and my oil consumption has increased quite a bit lately. I'd be interested in trying this to see if it helps.
> 
> ...


I'll probably be taking my intake manifold off in a month or so to check the valves. Will report my findings. I have about 25k miles on it since the new valves and the vent to atmosphere change.


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## bmulder (Oct 11, 2012)

majic said:


> I'll probably be taking my intake manifold off in a month or so to check the valves. Will report my findings. I have about 25k miles on it since the new valves and the vent to atmosphere change.


Thanks for the reply, I'll look forward to hearing how it goes for you 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## majic (Mar 10, 2005)

bmulder said:


> Thanks for the reply, I'll look forward to hearing how it goes for you
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Since photos rarely turn out well of the valves deep inside the runners (either the focus is off, or the flash makes things look like crap), I took a quick video showing valves before and after cleaning. This is after 30k miles without a catch can, venting crank case vapors to atmosphere.

The only source I can think of is valve overlap (allowing some exhaust gasses into the intake valve runners) or the fact that the valve seals and 5w-40 oil are designed to leak (it's in the VAG patent I read once... the oil apparently has detergents in it that they want to leak down the valve stems to help clean carbon deposits). 

Anyhow, here's a vid... bear in mind the valves are upgraded to nitride coated valves, so they were black in appearance when they were brand new... the fact that they're black after cleaning is not an indication of their relative dirtiness 

The first two sets of valves I spent about 10-15 minutes with engine cleaner and a scribe to scrape off the junk... the last two sets of valves I haven't touched yet, but were equally easy to clean. I think I spent a little more time to get them a little cleaner, but total time spent was about an hour and a half (with the cleaning part).






And a pic of the valves when they were brand new (with an OEM valve for comparison)









Hope this helps.


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## bmulder (Oct 11, 2012)

majic said:


> Since photos rarely turn out well of the valves deep inside the runners (either the focus is off, or the flash makes things look like crap), I took a quick video showing valves before and after cleaning. This is after 30k miles without a catch can, venting crank case vapors to atmosphere.
> 
> The only source I can think of is valve overlap (allowing some exhaust gasses into the intake valve runners) or the fact that the valve seals and 5w-40 oil are designed to leak (it's in the VAG patent I read once... the oil apparently has detergents in it that they want to leak down the valve stems to help clean carbon deposits).
> 
> ...


That's awesome, thanks for sharing your video! So there was still some carbon build up on the valves, in your opinion did the PCV fix/vta set up help diminish carbon build up compared to your last cleaning?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## majic (Mar 10, 2005)

bmulder said:


> That's awesome, thanks for sharing your video! So there was still some carbon build up on the valves, in your opinion did the PCV fix/vta set up help diminish carbon build up compared to your last cleaning?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I think it definitely helped. After 30k before the vent to atmosphere, it would have been gunked up much worse... also, what little deposits were there were actually much easier to clean than I remember it being in the past. So... add this to a regular maintenance item, whether you have a catch can or not.


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## ME83 (Dec 30, 2014)

majic said:


> I think it definitely helped. After 30k before the vent to atmosphere, it would have been gunked up much worse... also, what little deposits were there were actually much easier to clean than I remember it being in the past. So... add this to a regular maintenance item, whether you have a catch can or not.


Did you happen to look anywhere upstream of the heads in the intake? Everyone complains how the intercooler and charge pipe get bathed in oil.


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## majic (Mar 10, 2005)

ME83 said:


> Did you happen to look anywhere upstream of the heads in the intake? Everyone complains how the intercooler and charge pipe get bathed in oil.


Minimal to no accumulation in the charge pipe. 

I see no evidence of oil in the intercooler.


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