# A very technical build - PART III



## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Just for anybody new on here i'll give you a bit of a timeline of my past few iterations of my airride systems:

*Part 1*

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5238122-A-very-technical-build

Coles Notes:
- I was new to airride
- having an engineering background i was able to come up with a decent plan and layout for the trunk that was functional
- I ran 2 compressors
- I ran 2 tanks
- Hit a curb with the subframe, tweaked the frame and parted out the car










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*Part 2*

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5585113-A-very-technical-build-PART-II

Coles Notes:
- Waited for months to find the exact car i wanted, bought it, waited til the spring to install the airride again
- added one more compressor
- added more water traps
- New frame mount design
- Wiring redesign so all relays were accessible from the electrical section of the trunk
- TONS of sound/vibration isolation and dampening so the compressors were silent when running

Video of noise levels: http://s605.photobucket.com/user/MechEngg/media/VID00016-20120630-1255.mp4.html


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*Part 3*

Now on to Part 3, this build.

Reasons for a redesign:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6097002-Need-expert-help!


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Compressors ended up eating themselves at the end of last season. I had the system running for a year and a half and something got to them. It may have been the harmonics because all three compressors were bolted directly to the same piece of aluminum. It may have been because the initial water trap was so plugged up it wasn't able to handle the flow of the compressors anymore. 
So i figured i would take a look at this and change up a few things on the system. Change anything that i thought may have lead to the destruction of the compressors and also the tanks will be looking a bit nicer this go around 


*NEW STUFF*

_Vibration Isolation Mounts_
I am using more lighter duty vibration mounts rather than just a few heavy duty mounts. They will absorb more vibrations, as well i can distribute them BETWEEN the compressors themselves rather than just between the compressor frame and the trunk. This should definitely help get rid of any harmonics and will give off a negligible amount of vibrations to the trunk


















_4 Compressors_

Decided to add a fourth Air Zenith compressor into the mix. Alternator should be able to handle it so why not 
Also decided to find a way to use the standard AZ check valve and braided hoses so i got a few new bungs welded onto my smaller tank and i will run each compressor seperately directly into this tank. I have also decided to remove all water traps from the lower section, i am only going to run a single water trap and pressure regulator and check valve between my 5 gallon tank and the vu4 manifold. This means that i can set the max pressure/max height so if a valve fails open i do not blow a bag. Also means that if the tank gets a leak or something drastic happens, the bags will remain filled and the car won't air out while i'm on the road/in traffic etc.









That is about all for now folks, but i will update this further as i go along :thumbup:


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## rollininstyle2004 (Jun 8, 2005)

Can't wait to see how this! What are you expecting fill times to be?


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## Culver (Jun 1, 2009)

that is some wild sh!t.


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

_3 Gallon Tank_

Idea thanks to Colin (Bagged_GLI?)
I really like it now


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

*FV-QR*

I like what you did with the aluminum tank, it looks good. I've been meaning to get 1, I have a steel tank.

Sorry to hear about your AZ problems. Did you ever get it sorted out?

3 didn't work, so use 4. lol. That cracked me up a bit. Do you really think those springs with help with the harmonics?


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

MechEngg said:


> Decided to add a fourth Air Zenith compressor into the mix. Alternator should be able to handle it so why not
> *Also decided to find a way to use the standard AZ check valve and braided hoses so i got a few new bungs welded onto my smaller tank and i will run each compressor seperately directly into this tank. I have also decided to remove all water traps from the lower section, i am only going to run a single water trap and pressure regulator and check valve between my 5 gallon tank and the vu4 manifold.* This means that i can set the max pressure/max height so if a valve fails open i do not blow a bag. Also means that if the tank gets a leak or something drastic happens, the bags will remain filled and the car won't air out while i'm on the road/in traffic etc.


I am curious why you have decided to go this way. On my previous setup I ran my 444cc viair leader line into a check valve with a ptc on the end with about 5' of nylon line into a water trap mounted to my tank. It was a steel tank so I wanted to keep the water out of there as well as my manifold. problem is my water trap froze all the time, even with emptying it almost daily :screwy:. On my new set up I am picking up an Air Zenith and planned on running it with the leader line, (havent decided if I wanted an additional check valve) straight to the tank. Then having a water trap mounted onto the tank that leads back to the manifold. I will have to drain my tank but shouldn't be as big of a concern as it is aluminum. Reading through deans new thread as well as my goal is a leak free system.


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

MÄDDNESSS said:


> I like what you did with the aluminum tank, it looks good. I've been meaning to get 1, I have a steel tank.
> 
> Sorry to hear about your AZ problems. Did you ever get it sorted out?
> 
> 3 didn't work, so use 4. lol. That cracked me up a bit. Do you really think those springs with help with the harmonics?


Thanks, i like it a lot too!
I got the compressors rebuilt by AZ but they couldn't pin point the exact problem. They tried to blame it on the motor thermal device but that is not the issue, shouldn't have gotten hot enough to trip the thermal device to begin with. So i have a few theories that i have decided to make changes based around, hence the springs/isolators between compressors and each compressor directly into the tank, bypassing the water trap that it used to feed into.



03_uni-B said:


> I am curious why you have decided to go this way. On my previous setup I ran my 444cc viair leader line into a check valve with a ptc on the end with about 5' of nylon line into a water trap mounted to my tank. It was a steel tank so I wanted to keep the water out of there as well as my manifold. problem is my water trap froze all the time, even with emptying it almost daily :screwy:. On my new set up I am picking up an Air Zenith and planned on running it with the leader line, (havent decided if I wanted an additional check valve) straight to the tank. Then having a water trap mounted onto the tank that leads back to the manifold. I will have to drain my tank but shouldn't be as big of a concern as it is aluminum. Reading through deans new thread as well as my goal is a leak free system.


Well originally i wanted to 100% make sure nothing got into the tank so i ran the three traps. Nothing ever got into the second and the third and my buffer tank really acts as a giant condensing tank for any water. Taking out the first trap i still expect to get zero water in the water trap between the 5 gallon tank and manifold. The AZ check valves are really good and you shouldn't need an extra check valve on them :thumbup:


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## Vee-DubbVR6 (Jul 31, 2007)

sub'd for updates. You always do good work. :thumbup: ..bummer about your other comps, hopefully it'll be better this go around.

opcorn:


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## eurotrsh (Dec 25, 2004)

rollininstyle2004 said:


> What are you expecting fill times to be?


4.5 seconds.


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## theguy831 (Feb 28, 2011)

Part II was awesome. Look forward to what's next :thumbup:


Sent from The Universe using Stephen Hawking.


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

MechEngg said:


> Well originally i wanted to 100% make sure nothing got into the tank so i ran the three traps. Nothing ever got into the second and the third and my buffer tank really acts as a giant condensing tank for any water. Taking out the first trap i still expect to get zero water in the water trap between the 5 gallon tank and manifold. The AZ check valves are really good and you shouldn't need an extra check valve on them :thumbup:


sounds good, I thought I had head good things about their check valves. 
what do you use to seal your threads?


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## Carbon13GTI (Oct 17, 2012)

This looks awesome :thumbup:


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Vee-DubbVR6 said:


> sub'd for updates. You always do good work. :thumbup: ..bummer about your other comps, hopefully it'll be better this go around.
> 
> opcorn:


Thanks man, i am confident that this time around will be much better :thumbup:



eurotrsh said:


> 4.5 seconds.


If i only had the 3 gallon tank that would be sweet. I'd be down to like 20 seconds or so haha



theguy831 said:


> Part II was awesome. Look forward to what's next :thumbup:
> 
> 
> Sent from The Universe using Stephen Hawking.


Thanks bud :thumbup: Stay tuned



03_uni-B said:


> sounds good, I thought I had head good things about their check valves.
> what do you use to seal your threads?


I typically just use a PTFE paste ive had around for years. But i'm almost out. Will probably stick to using it since it gives me zero leaks in both the setups



Carbon13GTI said:


> This looks awesome :thumbup:


Thanks :thumbup::thumbup:





*UPDATE*

After talking to Dean i have decided on a slightly different route for my tank setup. Ordering a tank and a few unique fittings tonight and hopefully i'm able to get started pulling out the 5 gallon tank and doing a few modifications to the wiring area this week. New setup should give me space to carry around tools in a nice self contained space as well as make a nifty jack storage place and cover. Excited for this


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

MechEngg said:


> The AZ check valves are really good and you shouldn't need an extra check valve on them :thumbup:


Do you have any pictures of the AZ check valves?


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

MÄDDNESSS said:


> Do you have any pictures of the AZ check valves?


It is 1/4" NPT male threads that thread into the head of the compressor and it comes out as a 1/2" 37 degree flare fitting (JIC/-8 AN if you will). The stainless leader lines just screw into the end of the check valve, very nice setup so that stuff is removable without having to deal with pipe dope at all :thumbup:











*UPDATE*

Got everything out of the car today, each box came out in minutes, as it was designed to. 
Stripped everything down for a bit of a rejig of the setup still, going to go with just a 3 gallon tank for now, see if i want to add the extra tank for capacity later on. Fill times will be retarded.


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

*FV-QR*

Those AZ Check valves don't look to different from their Viar counter part. I never had any luck with them. They always leaked, even brand spankin new. If you need an alternative, go to your local big rig shop and pick up some check valves from them. That's what I ended up doing, 1 for each compressor. They lasted longer than my 380s. I upgraded to 444s and replaced just for good measure.




That's 1 fancy setup you got there.


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

At it again lol. Can't wait to see the outcome


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

MÄDDNESSS said:


> Those AZ Check valves don't look to different from their Viar counter part. I never had any luck with them. They always leaked, even brand spankin new. If you need an alternative, go to your local big rig shop and pick up some check valves from them. That's what I ended up doing, 1 for each compressor. They lasted longer than my 380s. I upgraded to 444s and replaced just for good measure.
> 
> That's 1 fancy setup you got there.


Hey thanks for the concern. I had no issues with these check valves before except for the fact that i attached a plain steel component to their output and i rusted out the check valves, my fault. They seem to work pretty darn well to be honest, no leaks and able to withstand high heat, but i do have 3 SMC check valves and 3 other check valves sitting around plus 3 extra AZ check valves. So i think i'm pretty set when it comes to check valves :thumbup:



Bierce IV said:


> At it again lol. Can't wait to see the outcome


Haha always :thumbup:


*UPDATE*


Got my setup partially modelled up to do a fitting takeoff, i'm going down to 1/4" line in the box to slow down the fill of the bags a smidge, won't be a world of difference because it is still 3/8" line everywhere else but this should help with the rears hitting ride height easily the first time on tight height tolerance settings.

Adding another tank, just like Dean's hanging from the parcel shelf, this is replacing the 5 gallon tank on the floor. Reason i'm doing it this way is to give myself a nice box for storing a floor jack, and i am also removing my amplifier and using that as storage for wrenches/parts/etc if i break down. Relays are moving into the box (red in picture) and will be accessible.
This box will all be carpeted so that it looks nice, wire loomed, etc so that i can take off the cover if i go to shows etc. 

Honestly excited for my BagRiders order to come in for the tank and few fittings that i need so i can get going with doing final measurements for the box and get to work :thumbup::thumbup:


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

I will do a full detailed writeup on the final design soon, basically what i have done and why. Every component has been chosen and placed for a specific reason :thumbup::thumbup:

Modelled in my air lines for fun. Should be an uber clean setup. All plumbing on one side of the box, all electrical on the other.

Also going to be using quick disconnects for all the electrical sensor lines and main ECU harness lines. Should be able to remove the whole system in a matter of minutes if anything goes wrong so i can fix stuff super easily


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## PNW20thGTI (Aug 21, 2013)

Amazing work MechEngg! Can't wait to see it all put together


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

PNW20thGTI said:


> Amazing work MechEngg! Can't wait to see it all put together


Thanks :thumbup::thumbup:


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Prepping the compressors for install

Basically what i wanted to do was have a simple method to install and remove the compressors and also incorporate all of the vibration isolation. I need to just be able to undo one side of the 4 bolts in order to achieve what i wanted so i came up with this here:


























Then with that assembly it will bolt directly down into the vibration isolators that are attached to the frames like such. Just imagine that the rubber isolator is already bolted onto the frame:









It will sit exactly like this picture except the lower washers got replaced by the lower nuts that i locked into place.


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## NOpassattimmy (Oct 13, 2011)

*FV-QR*

Your thread and Dean's thread are just making me more and more mad I haven't started hoarding air stuff yet 

Looks great though :thumbup:


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## c0r3y.af (Oct 8, 2009)

This looks awesome. Can't wait to see the finished product.


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

passattimmy said:


> Your thread and Dean's thread are just making me more and more mad I haven't started hoarding air stuff yet
> 
> Looks great though :thumbup:


Hoarding air parts has kinda become second nature to me 



c0r3y.af said:


> This looks awesome. Can't wait to see the finished product.


Thanks! :thumbup::thumbup:



*UPDATE*

Bagriders order came in :heart: 
Thanks Will & team, now i can do some work on the box this weekend!
New parts include an Airlift 2.5 gallon tank and a bunch of fittings for converting to 1/4" in the box



























Tank fittings.
- Inflation Valve
- Air Tool Connection
- Plain air inlet
- Safety/bleed valve
- Regulated air pressure output with check valve going to the VU4









Pressure sensors & Air horn connections









Few old fittings i have to work with...


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## DEZL_DUB (Aug 18, 2007)

air horns. nice :laugh:


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## boradie sucht (Aug 12, 2012)

all those extra ptc connections would scare me haha :laugh:


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

DEZL_DUB said:


> air horns. nice :laugh:


They are always fun to have :thumbup::thumbup:



boradie sucht said:


> all those extra ptc connections would scare me haha :laugh:


I honestly have had zero problems with any PTC fittings i have ever used, whether they be numatics fittings, alkon ones, SMC, or parker so i'm honestly not too worries about them :thumbup:


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

*UPDATE*

Got the tanks buttoned up on the weekend, that is about it. Did a bit of cutting of the box. Now just need to source some electrical connectors

And this is how it will be hung from the rear parcel tray, with the fitting access from the rear seats


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## Iku (Mar 11, 2009)

Hey man, that teal 1 into 2, where did you find it? Looking for a 1 into 3 solution similar.

Glad to see you are still at it as well, see you at FFH?


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## Twilliams83 (Jan 25, 2011)

making me want to get a smaller tank haha


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## Jetta_MK6 (Jan 18, 2012)

Iku said:


> Hey man, that teal 1 into 2, where did you find it? Looking for a 1 into 3 solution similar.
> 
> Glad to see you are still at it as well, see you at FFH?


Google air inline manifold. Many options to choose from.


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## Iku (Mar 11, 2009)

Jetta_MK6 said:


> Google air inline manifold. Many options to choose from.


Finding lots meant for fluids, and most are very small spacing. The one he has is about exactly the spacing I am after. =/

It actually looks like an Alcon, as Alcon offers teal manifolds. But Alcon's are all standard with PTC fittings pressed in from the factory.


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## Worthlessbackup (Apr 10, 2013)

Iku said:


> Finding lots meant for fluids, and most are very small spacing. The one he has is about exactly the spacing I am after. =/
> 
> It actually looks like an Alcon, as Alcon offers teal manifolds. But Alcon's are all standard with PTC fittings pressed in from the factory.


What's wrong with ones meant for fluids?


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## Jetta_MK6 (Jan 18, 2012)

That's probably a 4 port manifold he's using. There everywhere the hydraulic npt ones can be used just rated for much higher pressure and more costly. Grainger has them to I believe. Good luck


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

I actually got the teal manifold from Princess auto. This is the pneumatic one, the hydraulic fluid one is much more heavy duty, this was about $7 and works just fine :thumbup::thumbup: It has a total of 7 ports, 2 on the end, one on the back, and 4 on the front.


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

*UPDATE*

Picked up 4x 3 pin mic connectors and a 8 pin mic connector today from the local specialty electronics store. 
I'm using the 3 pin connectors for each sensor, so that i can fully wire up the box and then put an end on the cables in my trunk and have it a very easy plug&play when i'm ready to install it. Also if i ever sell the airride setup it will be sooooo easy for the next person to install all of my components and do the install. 8 pin connector is for the ecu power/switched and the comp signal wire going up to the front of the car to 4 switches and coming back so that takes up 5 wires total. 

Received the rest of my wiring a few days ago from knuconceptz, it is really awesome stuff. Some extra fused distribution blocks and fuses as well.


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## CiDirkona (May 1, 2007)

Neat!

I've thought about using molex connectors for quick disconnects, but they're not nearly as nice looking as that. You could always get extension cords for stuff like that too -- then you get both ends and they're already wired/soldered up nicely -- just cut it in half and then plug it into itself.


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

CiDirkona said:


> Neat!
> 
> I've thought about using molex connectors for quick disconnects, but they're not nearly as nice looking as that. You could always get extension cords for stuff like that too -- then you get both ends and they're already wired/soldered up nicely -- just cut it in half and then plug it into itself.


Thanks man, i have spent 2 months looking for exactly what i wanted. I wanted metal connectors, 3 and 8 pin that look identical, plug then screw together, female bulkhead style, and rated for 5A+ for a reasonable price. The only way you get everything is by using military grade connectors until i found these and i spent $20 on all 10 pieces total. So all in all not a bad day :thumbup:
I can make the cable ends nice myself and these are easier to repair if anything were to happen to them.


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## Iku (Mar 11, 2009)

MechEngg said:


> I actually got the teal manifold from Princess auto. This is the pneumatic one, the hydraulic fluid one is much more heavy duty, this was about $7 and works just fine :thumbup::thumbup: It has a total of 7 ports, 2 on the end, one on the back, and 4 on the front.


So I ended up getting this for my accessories, and will be grabbing one of those teal blocks from Princess, as an emergency manifold I can just plop onto my bag lines and fill manually.










Thanks for the info!


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## Feola86 (Sep 28, 2013)

So you should hook up some train horns to your air setup :thumbup:


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Feola86 said:


> So you should hook up some train horns to your air setup :thumbup:


Already have em :thumbup:
Hooked up to the steering wheel horn

I have since bent the mounting plate so they are angled downwards and directly out the front side lower grill


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## boradie sucht (Aug 12, 2012)

thats the same horn i has


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

Details on those horns? I had Kleinn 130's and really like them, but they were just too big for that location, and they leaked badly.

and did you just remove your stock horns all together?


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

They are the Kleinn 99's
I removed my stock horns and cut them apart and soldered the solenoid leads onto the plug so its a plug and play to the harness. If i ever want to go back to stock horns its a simple plug in :thumbup:


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

MechEngg said:


> They are the Kleinn 99's
> I removed my stock horns and cut them apart and soldered the solenoid leads onto the plug so its a plug and play to the harness. If i ever want to go back to stock horns its a simple plug in :thumbup:


That's awesome, definitely plan on doing that this time around :thumbup:


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

*UPDATE*

Box is done, well considered done as i have to order one more freaking air fitting 

Soldered and heat shrunk all the quick connect fittings, super fun!









Two fuses for the VU4 plus a grounding post so i can add as many ring terminals as i like :thumbup:









Bottom left you can see my main disconnect point for power and switched power and compressor signals up to my switches up in the front









You have no idea how tedious it is to get all the wires exactly the right length and to run them nicely. Took forever
















http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt134/MechEngg/IMAG0865_zpsbrdqrpsi.jpg[img]

Terminal strips for hooking up the compressor relay signal wires ;)
[img]http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt134/MechEngg/IMAG0866_zpsgyl20j7y.jpg

Oh and i mounted the ECU flush so it gave me more room in the box for wiring but also made if visible from the compressor area









Final connections:
Here you can see how i hook everything up to the car. Two 3/8" fittings are for the air lines running to the bags. Two quick connect metal things are for each e-level sensor. Last 1/4" fitting is coming from the first tank to the second tank. In the second picture it is coming from the second tank and going to the manifold.


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## Mr.Tan (Jun 9, 2004)

so clean. Makes me wanna rethink my setup so far and re-do some things before I put i put it in.


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## fasttt600 (Apr 12, 2007)

looks good man.:thumbup:


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Mr.Tan said:


> so clean. Makes me wanna rethink my setup so far and re-do some things before I put i put it in.


Thanks. Getting it up and running is always the first stage then you can mess around with the look of it :thumbup:



fasttt600 said:


> looks good man.:thumbup:


Thanks :thumbup::thumbup:


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

I'm jealous.

That's fancy **** right there my man.

Keep it up.:thumbup:


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## Vee-DubbVR6 (Jul 31, 2007)

Nicely executed - well done! :thumbup:

Where did you source the black carpet? Local store or online somewhere? None of the local fabric stores around me carry this type of material.


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

MÄDDNESSS said:


> I'm jealous.
> 
> That's fancy **** right there my man.
> 
> Keep it up.:thumbup:


Thanks bud :thumbup::thumbup:



Vee-DubbVR6 said:


> Nicely executed - well done! :thumbup:
> 
> Where did you source the black carpet? Local store or online somewhere? None of the local fabric stores around me carry this type of material.


Actually picked it up from Canadian Tire :laugh:
It is very durable and tough and looks decent


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## Vee-DubbVR6 (Jul 31, 2007)

Canadian Tire..? Haha, no way, that crazy!  Didn't know they carried that kind of thing - pretty cool though! :thumbup:

I'll have to keep searching around - I'm trying to match the black carpet in the mk4 R32 (black) versus using the dark grey that's in the hatch area... the rear seats are gone so I'm not trying to have two tone interior with the false floor extending over the rear bench.

I'll have to check with Dorbritz maybe..


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## CiDirkona (May 1, 2007)

Beautiful craftsmanship! :thumbup::thumbup:


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Vee-DubbVR6 said:


> Canadian Tire..? Haha, no way, that crazy!  Didn't know they carried that kind of thing - pretty cool though! :thumbup:
> 
> I'll have to keep searching around - I'm trying to match the black carpet in the mk4 R32 (black) versus using the dark grey that's in the hatch area... the rear seats are gone so I'm not trying to have two tone interior with the false floor extending over the rear bench.
> 
> I'll have to check with Dorbritz maybe..


Ah good idea, my sides of my trunk are grey and it annoys me because the interior of mine is black as well. At least I still have rear seats so it's not as noticable



CiDirkona said:


> Beautiful craftsmanship! :thumbup::thumbup:


Thank you sir, and that is quite a compliment coming from yourself :thumbup::thumbup:


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## Vee-DubbVR6 (Jul 31, 2007)

MechEngg said:


> Ah good idea, my sides of my trunk are grey and it annoys me because the interior of mine is black as well. At least I still have rear seats so it's not as noticable



Yea, if I was keeping my rear seats in, I would probably just match it to the rear grey carpet... But now I'm thinking if I can find the right kind of black carpet I'll just dye the rear side pieces, that are pre-formed, black to match everything else.


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

I cannot wait till my MK4 is no longer my daily and I can plan a project like this. Been eyeing some electrical connectors like that, really gives it the next level of quality. Good work :thumbup::thumbup:


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Vee-DubbVR6 said:


> Yea, if I was keeping my rear seats in, I would probably just match it to the rear grey carpet... But now I'm thinking if I can find the right kind of black carpet I'll just dye the rear side pieces, that are pre-formed, black to match everything else.


Good call, i'd love to eventually get my side carpets dyed as well to match :thumbup:



03_uni-B said:


> I cannot wait till my MK4 is no longer my daily and I can plan a project like this. Been eyeing some electrical connectors like that, really gives it the next level of quality. Good work :thumbup::thumbup:


Thanks Marc :thumbup::thumbup:


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

*UPDATE*

Pressure tested the tanks and the box tonight with zero leaks, so im pleased there is no re-work.
Altered the wiring on the compressor relays a bit again. Now the relays mount on the back of the motors, heat shouldn't affect it because they will be on for less than a minute anyways and they don't run very hot.
Only got two compressors done before i had enough soldering for the night so i installed the two compressors, they went in soooooo easy. Just place it in and screw down four bolts from the top and presto! They will be super easy to take in/out if need be.
Installed the two boxes as well, the main electrical (with a grounding bolt) and a few fused disconnects. The compressor fused distribution blocks will be double fused just to free up two extra ports for if i finally install my amp and sub or other miscellaneous ****.
Sunday will be soldering the other two comps and installing both of the tanks and hopefully have it be able to be tested finally :thumbup:


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

Are you gonna be at SOWO?


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

MÄDDNESSS said:


> Are you gonna be at SOWO?


I was not planning on it, I'm in Calgary so it would be a small trek to get there, plus no time off work right now.
Seems like a pretty sweet event thought, might plan on going sometime over the next few years :thumbup:


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

MechEngg said:


> I was not planning on it, I'm in Calgary so it would be a small trek to get there, plus no time off work right now.
> Seems like a pretty sweet event thought, might plan on going sometime over the next few years :thumbup:


I've been to Wuste in Vegas, West Coast Wortherssee and Oktoberfest in CA. SOWO is BY FAR the best. This will be year 3 for me.

I'm kinda glad you won't be there, your car makes me wanna sell mine.


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

MÄDDNESSS said:


> I've been to Wuste in Vegas, West Coast Wortherssee and Oktoberfest in CA. SOWO is BY FAR the best. This will be year 3 for me.
> 
> I'm kinda glad you won't be there, your car makes me wanna sell mine.


Wicked i might check it out then for next year!
And don't feel that way buddy :beer:


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

*UPDATE*

Got a lot done this weekend.

Brackets for 3 gallon tank in the trunk, tank is now mounted









2.5 gallon mounted
All air tubing is complete and functional with zero leaks, from the check valves all the way to the bags
8 pin wiring connection worked flawlessly
Started up the car and the vu4 manifold works flawlessly











TO DO:
- Main grounding wire
- Wire up compressors to fuses
- Ground compressors to main grounding lug
- Wire 3 pin connectors


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## CiDirkona (May 1, 2007)

1" aluminum flat bar?


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

CiDirkona said:


> 1" aluminum flat bar?


Yes sir, 1" x 1/8". It is great for mounting stuff, keeps it held down very well and is easy to work with to get the exact shaping right :thumbup:


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## Feola86 (Sep 28, 2013)

Where did you get your alternator if you don't mind me asking


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Feola86 said:


> Where did you get your alternator if you don't mind me asking


I got it made for me by Excessive Amperage










*UPDATE*

Car is back on the road. Had a bad ignition switch so i switched it out and got a new Bosch AGM battery and the system is working as good as ever. 

Only running 2 compressors as of right now until i get extra leader lines made up that are longer for my needs. Fill time is under 1 minute with just 2 compressors and 5.5 gallons so it's not too bad, can't wait to get all 4 running


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## c0r3y.af (Oct 8, 2009)

Awesome build man. Nice to see it coming together.


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## christofambrosch (Jul 5, 2011)

MechEngg said:


> Fill time is under 1 minute with just 2 compressors and 5.5 gallons so it's not too bad, can't wait to get all 4 running


From empty? My AirZenith OB2 fill from 90 - 150 in 45 seconds.


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

christofambrosch said:


> From empty? My AirZenith OB2 fill from 90 - 150 in 45 seconds.


I guess i should have stated refill time. Lower limit of the e-level pressures (110-150).

I'm guessing you have a single OB2 and a 2.5 gallon tank only which kinda follows the same scheme/refill time.


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## christofambrosch (Jul 5, 2011)

MechEngg said:


> I guess i should have stated refill time. Lower limit of the e-level pressures (110-150).
> 
> I'm guessing you have a single OB2 and a 2.5 gallon tank only which kinda follows the same scheme/refill time.


Single OB2 with a five gallon and 3/8" hardlines.


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

christofambrosch said:


> Single OB2 with a five gallon and 3/8" hardlines.


Well that honestly sounds incorrect or like an exaggerated truth. It should be around 1 min 20 seconds according to AZ and i wouldn't ever put real world times ahead of factory best case scenario's


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## christofambrosch (Jul 5, 2011)

I'll have to re-time it but last time I did it was 45.


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

*UPDATE*

Trunk setup is all done except for two leader lines i'm looking to get in the next few weeks here. All set up and functional, and the stock carpet lays directly on top of this one to keep junk from messing up this carpet.

Well all of you should know by now that i'm terrible at taking pictures. Here are an instagram pics for those of you who aren't following me yet (follow me now)


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## mongoose711 (Nov 20, 2013)

MechEngg said:


> *UPDATE*
> 
> Trunk setup is all done except for two leader lines i'm looking to get in the next few weeks here. All set up and functional, and the stock carpet lays directly on top of this one to keep junk from messing up this carpet.
> 
> Well all of you should know by now that i'm terrible at taking pictures. Here are an instagram pics for those of you who aren't following me yet (follow me now)




Looks really good as have your last few versions of the trunk. The amount of planning that you put into this is crazy. I've heard hydraulic hose makes a good leader line, and you mentioned having a Princess Auto near by, they can make custom lengths at most locations.


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

Where did you get your accessory air hose? i've got this crappy yellow harbor freight one that isnt long at all and was looking at getting something better longer.


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

mongoose711 said:


> Looks really good as have your last few versions of the trunk. The amount of planning that you put into this is crazy. I've heard hydraulic hose makes a good leader line, and you mentioned having a Princess Auto near by, they can make custom lengths at most locations.


Thanks :thumbup:



03_uni-B said:


> Where did you get your accessory air hose? i've got this crappy yellow harbor freight one that isnt long at all and was looking at getting something better longer.


I actually got it at princess auto. It was a 50' 1/4" coil hose in black and it fits great and i can access my whole car with it. It is pretty decent for the price i paid :thumbup:


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## im_lower (Feb 25, 2011)

Very nice setup. :beer:


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

im_lower said:


> Very nice setup. :beer:


Thanks!

No further updates, still waiting for my alternator to ship back from Florida, he is taking his sweet ass time with the rebuild


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## one point eight t (Jan 24, 2013)

Any updates?


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

*UPDATE*
Alternator was shipped 3+ weeks ago, still isn't in my possession. Fantastic. Oh well has to cross the continent from the very SE tip to the NW of Canada so it does take some time. Unfortunately it is now parked because of below. I took the volvo out for the winter.

September 8, 2014:


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Spoke too soon. Look what arrived today


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## boradie sucht (Aug 12, 2012)

canada is stupid


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## Herr Kaleun (Sep 17, 2014)

So glad I live in the province with the least amount of Canadian Snow. 

Great build, I really like it.

How does the car ride with Air Suspension? 

Keep up the great work

Cheers,
John


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

boradie sucht said:


> canada is stupid


You are stupid :facepalm:



Herr Kaleun said:


> So glad I live in the province with the least amount of Canadian Snow.
> 
> Great build, I really like it.
> 
> ...


Love how the car rides and handles, i ride it super low so the firestone rears were an excellent choice for me and my wheel setup.


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

What did that excessive Alternator cost you? If you dont mind me asking? How many Amp does it push?


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## NOpassattimmy (Oct 13, 2011)

*FV-QR*

Can you build my air setup for me?

Actually though, I was wondering how you/other people transition the airlines to the outside of the car? I don't like the way mine are currently, I'm wondering if bulkheads like what you have on your box, on the spare tire well would be a good solution?


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

MÄDDNESSS said:


> What did that excessive Alternator cost you? If you dont mind me asking? How many Amp does it push?


It cost me $240 to get it rewound and the regulator replaced etc from EA. The first time around it was maybe $380 for the alternator purchase outright



passattimmy said:


> Can you build my air setup for me?
> 
> Actually though, I was wondering how you/other people transition the airlines to the outside of the car? I don't like the way mine are currently, I'm wondering if bulkheads like what you have on your box, on the spare tire well would be a good solution?


Haha you wish buddy 

Some other people have definitely used bulkhead unions, they are good stuff and depending on what type of setup you want to run they can be easy to do or a PITA to do. Again depending on where you would be coming out of the trunk and how big your muffler/exhaust is etc.
Myself, i ran the rear lines through the metal gusset at the bottom of the seat back, then up and out of the ABS grommet.
Front lines were ran through the very very bottom of the metal seat gusset and then down below the rear seats and out through that grommet, down through the oval grommet in front of where the rear brake line clips are, then along the rails on either side of the car, up to the front, then the leader lines are looped accordingly to keep them out of the way of the axle at all times and to have some flex in the turns. You don't want to run those lines too tight for sure.


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## 2009RoutanSE (Feb 24, 2010)

Hey MechEngg, your threads are such an inspiration. Just wanted to ask a couple questions.

Is it safe to run an SMC check valve straight from a compressor as opposed to using the compressor leader line first and then connecting the check valve?

and also for the water trap, is there a difference in performance in terms of placement with the water trap being directly connected to the tank (between comp/manifold) or having at least a 1 foot airline with the water trap being between the compressor and manifold?

reason why I'm asking is because, I feel like the check valve and water trap would be more sturdier if the check valve was directly connected to the compressor and water trap directly to the tank.

Just wanted to double check with you (or anyone that's familiar with this)


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## Jetta_MK6 (Jan 18, 2012)

If your gonna be running the V2 system I would mount a water trap before the tank and after the tank going to manifold just to be safe. Really only one is needed as water accumulation is usually minimal. Just extra security for cheap for an expensive system. And the check valve can be mounted on the compressor if you wanted. Won't hurt anything either way you do it.


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## 2009RoutanSE (Feb 24, 2010)

Jetta_MK6 said:


> If your gonna be running the V2 system I would mount a water trap before the tank and after the tank going to manifold just to be safe. Really only one is needed as water accumulation is usually minimal. Just extra security for cheap for an expensive system. And the check valve can be mounted on the compressor if you wanted. Won't hurt anything either way you do it.



Thanks for the reply and yeah I plan on taking care of my v2, I'm going to run dual comps and have bought 3 water traps already. Two for the dual comps and one after the tank before the manifold. 

And thanks for clarifying the check valve question :thumbup:


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Guess i should update this finally.

Over the winter the car sat, with no work done to it except the alternator got installed and my thermostat went back into the car (was an empty pipe last summer due to overheating).

Got some new e-level sensors from [email protected] The updated sensors first off are quite a bit different than the original sensors, both dimensionally, materials, and design. The plug connections are different right off the bat, and the sensors are about 150% of the height of the original ones, making it a bit tough to tuck behind wide wheels. However they have certainly chosen a better material (appears to be a reinforced teflon heim joints) and all plastic sensors to avoid rusting issued like the original sensors had. The adjustable holes for different suspension travel makes these compatible with nearly any vehicle out there :thumbup:

Overall the new sensors are solid and i'd recommend switching over if you run into issues with your early version sensors, it is also a fairly cheap swap over too, listed at $425 i believe from Accuair directly.

I also wire loomed my compressor leads in the trunk and got the trunk to where i want it for the Driven2015 car show happening in Calgary this weekend. 
Oh yeah, all the compressors work together now 

New Sensors/ECU









Trunk


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

Finally is right haha, Can we get a video of all 4 running together? Any plans on adding more tank?


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