# Let's talk Diverter Valves



## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

The board is a little slow today so I tought I would start a thread about diverter valves(I posted my modified DV on QW a while back but I need to share the love with you guys also) 

I wanted a valve capable of holding 30-35 psi steady while keeping stock driveability, response and staying maintenance free. Yes, I tried aftermarket valves but they have slow release response, even slower recovery and require maintenance. 

Being that I'm a DSM/evo guy and work for Mitsubishi, I decided to use Mitsu's late metal valve found on Evo IX and X for my project. It's a good unit from the get go, offering more release volume, larger and stronger diaphragm than the TT's Bosh unit and capable of holding about 25 psi with slow leak at 17 psi. 

 
 

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First thing I did was the old "DSM crushing mod" 
It simply raises the internal spring holding capacity by cruching the top chamber slightly. Preloading of the spring allows the valve to hold boost up to 30+ psi steady. 

Now that the unit is capable of holding boost past 30 PSI, I needed to make it leak free. One way to do so is to drill an external reference port and then seal the factory internal port between the top and bottom of the diaphragm. This makes the valve virtually leak free at psi that the car will never see(45+ tested). 

The modified valve will now be capable of holding boost without any leak, keep the stock like fast release, recover at the turbo's max psi while being surge free. The only thing on the car that need to change is the size of the hoses because the mitsubishi in/out nipples are bigger. To me that was not even an issue as I was already using an evo metal bov/tb pipe because I needed a spot to weld methanol nozzles bungs, so it's plug and play. 


 

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*Machined metal plug(no more JB weld*) 


 

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The following is a test on reaction time that a car mag did on various dv on the market. 
What you are looking at is after the release, when the driver heads back to WOT, how quick the valve recovers. All tests were run at 9 psi. 

At the first point of 100% throttle: 
DSM 1G/evo DV = 2 psi 
DSM 1G/evo DV/crushed = 1 psi 
DSM 2G DV plastic = 3.5 psi 
WRX DV = 3 psi 
FD3S DV = 4.5 psi 
R32 GTR DV = 3 psi 
Bosch DV = 3 psi 
A'pexi twin chamber BOV = 4 psi 
Bailey DV = 4 psi 
Blitz super sound BOV = 2 psi 
HKS SSQV BOV = 3.5 psi 
Stratmosphere hyperboost adjustable DV = 4.5 psi 
Vortech race BOV = 3 psi 
Forge piston ram BOV = 5.5 psi 
Forge piston ram DV = 4 psi 
Greddy type S DV = 2 psi 
Greddy type R DV = 3 psi 

Feel free to discuss and give inputs on your experiences on DV on the TT.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Hmm the Baily's is that slow:screwy:. I always thought it was faster than my stock


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## wrparrish (Nov 13, 2008)

Thats great information, and something i'd like to get my hands on. 

Can you explain or show the blocking of the internal hole? That was the only part i didnt follow or grasp.


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## taifighter (Dec 21, 2007)

I've ran a few. The first aftermarket was the Forge Splitter when I was chipped and I also used it at first when I went BT. The Splitter was a cool idea and worked great @ chipped performance levels but couldn't move the volume once I went BT.

I went with a 004 but always had flutter at partial throttle lift. WOT lift was ok but still flutteres tward the end of the release. I ran like that for about a year.

The car started to run funny and I couldn't nail it down. I did a bunch of maintenance and replaced all the common sensors. The car ran better but stumbled at WOT release between shifts.

Then I got a SSQV. 
Best valve ever.
No flutter at any time. Went back to recirculating (004 was atmospheric) and it runs great. Plus, with the recirc kit, you don't have the ricer whistle.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

wrparrish said:


> Thats great information, and something i'd like to get my hands on.
> 
> Can you explain or show the blocking of the internal hole? That was the only part i didnt follow or grasp.


 That is what the valve looks like when it's open. I ended up tapping the whole and used a recessed allen bolt for a more solid solution than JB weld. 

 

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*Valve mounted with clear hoses to show the reducers/adapters neded to go from 4G63T to 1.8t* 

 
 

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*EDIT* 

This is what the valve looks like nowadays before shipping. Silicone reducers with metal barb fittings !


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

taifighter said:


> *Then I got a SSQV.
> Best valve ever*.
> No flutter at any time. Went back to recirculating (004 was atmospheric) and it runs great. Plus, with the recirc kit, you don't have the ricer whistle.


 Altough it may be good at holding boost, If you look at the test it is still a slow ass valve in terms of recovery at 3.5 psi. I personally could not stand a slow responding valve :thumbdown:.


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## taifighter (Dec 21, 2007)

I'm not worried, it's in the middle of the field compared to the other ones on the list. The car runs smoother with it, it sounds good, and gets the job done. I also got it at a great price on closeout scratch n dent because there were a few minor scuffs in the finish.


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

What do u guys think of EVOMS DV'S? 
since i got it not too long ago


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

taifighter said:


> I'm not worried, it's in the middle of the field compared to the other ones on the list. The car runs smoother with it, it sounds good, and gets the job done. I also got it at a great price on closeout scratch n dent because there were a few minor scuffs in the finish.


 :beer: it is like you said a middle of the road performer and getting anything at a deal makes it better.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

Mantvis said:


> What do u guys think of EVOMS DV'S?
> since i got it not too long ago


 I have no firsthand experience with it so I can't really comment. 

In general, almost any piston dv from what you can see is going to be lazy in response. 

Also if the valve construction allows for pressurized air to act against the set spring tension it will naturally cause it to crack open(leak) before it is suppose to. 
That early leakage in the valve operation is what I prevented by plugging the reference hole between the two chambers and re-drilling an external boost reference port.


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## taifighter (Dec 21, 2007)

I had one of those kits on my Talon that took a stock 1g valve and added a line and a box to it. I can't remember the name of the vendor but I sent it out for the service. Its a really cool idea that I've only seen on DSMs


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

taifighter said:


> I had one of those kits on my Talon that took a stock 1g valve and added a line and a box to it. I can't remember the name of the vendor but I sent it out for the service. Its a really cool idea that I've only seen on DSMs


 Dejon power tool quick release box? 

Same concept, except that they hook the external boost port that I drilled to a solenoid box making the release even quicker(forced vaccum). 

The problem with that is part throttle is erratic. I drew the line there because venting the external port to the atmosphere is fast enough(less than 1 psi for full recoveries) that I'd deal with that over part throttle issues.


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## taifighter (Dec 21, 2007)

That's the one.

That was my first turbo car


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

I run a Greddy Type S on my big turbo motor, but don't recirculate. Going on 5 years now with nary a problem.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

20v master said:


> I run a Greddy Type S on my big turbo motor, but don't recirculate. Going on 5 years now with nary a problem.


 The Greddy type and the Blitz s s bov are two of the better valves out there. As you can see in the test, they both only needed 2 psi for recovery. 

How is maintenance on it and how does it hold high boost?


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

madmax199 said:


> Altough it may be good at holding boost, If you look at the test it is still a slow ass valve in terms of recovery at 3.5 psi. I personally could not stand a slow responding valve :thumbdown:.


 
So how much $$$ to get a madmax DV?


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

omerkm1 said:


> So how much $$$ to get a madmax DV?


 It is really not that hard to make but if you insist, I would say the price of the valve and $10 for shipping. 

If you buy the valve (evolutionm.net classifieds is your best) and ship it to me, just paypal the $10 so I can ship it back and voila you got your madmax dv.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

madmax199 said:


> How is maintenance on it and how does it hold high boost?


I haven't opened the thing since I took the cap off to polish off the purple when I got it, and it has held the 32-34 psi I've run on 110 octane a dozen or so times over the years.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

I am getting several PM and e-mails about the my evo modded DV and how to do it in details. I am going to post the steps here so everyone can have acces to it:

*1) Slightly crush the ceiling of the top chamber*. 

Please be gentle and don't go too far, a 1 to 2 mm depression is enough preload on the spring. The best way to do this is to sandwich the valve on a vice horizontally with a socket. (just use a slightly smaller socket on the side you want to crush and go slowly)

The top of the valve pictured here used to be flat


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*2) Drill your 3mm external reference port(you are only opening the original to the atmosphere)*



drill just enough to vent out the hole you are plugging in step 3


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*3) Plug the original internal boost reference port.* 

JB weld will work but I tapped and plugged it with a recessed head allen screw.


this hole you are plugging is the one you want to vent by drilling in step 2


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

You should make up a couple if you have access to the valves for sale. I have been fishing around the evo forum and cant find a 1gen dv for sale. Thanks for the post with pics though.... :thumbup:


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

omerkm1 said:


> You should make up a couple if you have access to the valves for sale. I have been fishing around the evo forum and cant find a 1gen dv for sale. Thanks for the post with pics though.... :thumbup:


You want EVO X, EVO 9 and EVO MR metal valve, 1st gen valve is the metal valve found on the early DSMs and would require a flange. 

I could easily source a few valves and modify them but I'd only do so if I have prepaid takers lined up.

I'm not looking to make any profit and I'm just helping the community. If anyone really want a valve, let me know and I will direct you where to find them:thumbup:.


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

madmax199 said:


> You want EVO X, EVO 9 and EVO MR metal valve, 1st gen valve is the metal valve found on the early DSMs and would require a flange.
> 
> I could easily source a few valves and modify them but I'd only do so if I have prepaid takers lined up.
> 
> I'm not looking to make any profit and I'm just helping the community. If anyone really want a valve, let me know and I will direct you where to find them:thumbup:.



PM Sent.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

omerkm1 said:


> PM Sent.


 Replied


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

madmax199 said:


> Replied


:beer::beer: Thanks Max!!


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

omerkm1 said:


> :beer::beer: Thanks Max!!


 Valve on it's way to me:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

I got a few pm about what else is needed to make my modified valve work on the TT.
All that is needed is (2) 1" to 1 1/4 couplings, a piece of 1 1/4" hose and hoses clamps.

This is a picture of omerkm1 valve that's going out today minus the hose(busy at work and didn't get to cut it yet)




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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Nice Mitsu anny chair/stool.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

20v master said:


> Nice Mitsu anny chair/stool.


Good eyes


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

madmax199 said:


> I got a few pm about what else is needed to make my modified valve work on the TT.
> All that is needed is (2) 1" to 1 1/4 couplings, a piece of 1 1/4" hose and hoses clamps.
> 
> This is a picture of omerkm1 valve that's going out today minus the hose(busy at work and didn't get to cut it yet)
> ...



Thanks Max! :beer:


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

*Best thing since sliced bread!*

Madmax DV is installed and the performance is amazing. The car hits boost quick but also holds it better and less drop between shifts. I would recommend this to anyone that can talk Max into building one for. 

FYI - I am coming from a Forge 007 DV


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

omerkm1 said:


> Madmax DV is installed and the performance is amazing. The car hits boost quick but also holds it better and less drop between shifts. I would recommend this to anyone that can talk Max into building one for.
> 
> FYI - I am coming from a Forge 007 DV


I'm glad you like it :thumbup: 

This thing really rocks, we had tested on an evoX before I sent it to you. The car picked up 4 psi of boost and hit over 320 load from a previous best of 280. We even had to rescale the ecu since mitsu had it only scaled to 320, simply amazing for just a BOV.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

Omer, can you post a picture of the valve mounted. I'd like to see it on car without a dv relocation(if you don't have one). Thanks


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

madmax199 said:


> Omer, can you post a picture of the valve mounted. I'd like to see it on car without a dv relocation(if you don't have one). Thanks



Sure thing. Car is back under the knife and I wont be able to post a pic till Monday. :laugh:


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

omerkm1 said:


> Sure thing. Car is back under the knife and I wont be able to post a pic till Monday. :laugh:


That's fine, I'm not going anywhere :beer:.


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## bvgoosedd (Mar 5, 2009)

i just seen that the blitz also has a recirculation adapter. what kit do i need to put one on my car. i should be good since i am big turbo. is anyone running one?


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## bvgoosedd (Mar 5, 2009)

also how does the tial 50mm do?


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

If you have to have one the aftermarket valves, the Synapse synchronic bov is the one to have nowadays.

It can be recirculated or vented to the atmosphere and be used in both pull or push orientation. Supposedly it's really fast and can hold BT pressure.

However, you can always go the madmax way, and have the same performance for a fraction of the cost.


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## Volksdude27 (Nov 25, 2005)

madmax199 said:


> Omer, can you post a picture of the valve mounted. I'd like to see it on car without a dv relocation(if you don't have one). Thanks


 I'm not Omer but I did take some snap of My install. I,m installing a High flow manifold shortly, so I may do a more "clean" install afterward


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

Volksdude27 said:


> I'm not Omer but I did take some snap of My install. I,m installing a High flow manifold shortly, so I may do a more "clean" install afterward


 Cool, thanks!:thumbup: 

I have afew questions? 
Did you get everything sorted out? 
How do like the Madmax valve in comparison to what you had before?


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## idwurks (Oct 25, 2003)

Not that I have any facts to back it up, but I do enjoy my APR R1. It is just low profile, no springs to mess with. Kind of like a great upgrade from the OEM DV and guaranteed for life. I had a Forge 007 and messing with the springs was always a pain. And I was constantly relubing the piston with Mobil 1 syn grease. I just like the APR because its so easy and maintenance free. 

Feels like it responds faster than the Forge did, but again only butt dyno data :thumbup:


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## Volksdude27 (Nov 25, 2005)

madmax199 said:


> Cool, thanks!:thumbup:
> 
> I have afew questions?
> Did you get everything sorted out?
> How do like the Madmax valve in comparison to what you had before?


 Yeah, I did sort everything out, it has been a PITA tough to make everything fit as the valve needs to be placed opposite to a regular valve (boost on the bottom) and the overall, especially with the fittings makes the whole thing a lot bigger than a regular valve. 

I'll say that the boost awnser is incredible compared to the forge valve I had before, you're right when you say pistons valves are lazy. The only thing I was afraid of was the "swoosh swoosh swoosh" sound i was hearing that reminded me of a BOV I had on a previous car that was set too stiff and destroyed the turbo by sending back pressure to it. Other than that, this valve is awesomeness!!! I might develop one designed forr our cars that won't need all the fittings and will fit straight there  



idwurks said:


> Not that I have any facts to back it up, but I do enjoy my APR R1. It is just low profile, no springs to mess with. Kind of like a great upgrade from the OEM DV and guaranteed for life. I had a Forge 007 and messing with the springs was always a pain. And I was constantly relubing the piston with Mobil 1 syn grease. I just like the APR because its so easy and maintenance free.
> 
> Feels like it responds faster than the Forge did, but again only butt dyno data :thumbup:


 The APR R1 works well, but personnaly, after I had to send him back the 3rd time for a defect, I quitted, Damn I had to buy a 710n to put one the car waiting for APR to redo the valve under warranty. Yeas there's a lifetime waranty on it, but hell, I had it on my car less time than it was being repaired....


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

Volksdude27 said:


> Yeah, I did sort everything out, it has been a PITA tough to make everything fit as the valve needs to be placed opposite to a regular valve (boost on the bottom) and the overall, especially with the fittings makes the whole thing a lot bigger than a regular valve.
> 
> I'll say that the boost awnser is incredible compared to the forge valve I had before, you're right when you say pistons valves are lazy. The only thing I was afraid of was the "swoosh swoosh swoosh" sound i was hearing that reminded me of a BOV I had on a previous car that was set too stiff and destroyed the turbo by sending back pressure to it. Other than that, this valve is awesomeness!!! I might develop one designed forr our cars that won't need all the fittings and will fit straight there


 Good to hear it is working as intented:thumbup:. 

The rapid "swoosh swoosh swoosh" sound you are describing (we went trough this via PM but I'm posting the info so everyone knows) is typical of all diaphragm based valve. The reason you hear it more than a Bosh 710 is because this valve recirculate a lot more volume and is metallic. Plastic valves tend to be quieter but are not as heavy duty as their metallic counterparts. 

As far as making the valve plug and play and fit better, I have all the required parts needed but the DIY guys like you have to come up with your own solutions.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

idwurks said:


> Not that I have any facts to back it up, but I do enjoy my APR R1. It is just low profile, no springs to mess with. Kind of like a great upgrade from the OEM DV and guaranteed for life. I had a Forge 007 and messing with the springs was always a pain. And I was constantly relubing the piston with Mobil 1 syn grease. I just like the APR because its so easy and maintenance free.
> 
> Feels like it responds faster than the Forge did, but again only butt dyno data :thumbup:


 Any diaphragm valve(low mass) is going to respond faster than the piston types(heavy mass). 

The problem with the aftermarket diaphragm valves designed for the 1.8t is: 

1) They are not built for higher boost applications, anything over 15 psi they can not hold properly(soft springs) 

2) They start to leak at early pressure(7-10 psi). Kind of like a wastegate, at a certain psi, they partially crack open, forcing the turbo to work extra hard to reach it's targeted boost(creating heat). 

For a "stockish" car they are just fine, but the minute you get a tune they are weak at best :beer:.


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## Volksdude27 (Nov 25, 2005)

madmax199 said:


> As far as making the valve plug and play and fit better, I have all the required parts needed but the DIY guys like you have to come up with your own solutions.


 I mean build a valve from that design that would fit right there without adapters  

I'll check what i can do and if the cost would be low enough to be a good solution


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

Max - Sorry I havent posted pics, but in refreshing the suspension it seems like everything the shop took apart, subsequently broke and had to be replaced. :banghead: 

The DV kit Max sent me went in very easily. All the fittings and down sizing pieces were perfect and I would highly recommend anyone buying a DSM valve and sending it to Max for retrofit. 

I will post pics as soon as I can. :thumbup:


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## bvgoosedd (Mar 5, 2009)

just wondering how do you know if your DV is not holding up?? what happens???


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

bvgoosedd said:


> just wondering how do you know if your DV is not holding up?? what happens???


 You don't know, and like most, probably assume the poor performance is the norm. 

You'd have to test it, like I did (test for both spring holding pressure and recovery speed, especially at high psi) 
Or you can try a madmax valve and realize how much your previous valve was sucking at life :laugh:.


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

madmax199 said:


> You don't know, and like most, probably assume the poor performance is the norm.
> 
> You'd have to test it, like I did (test for both spring holding pressure and recovery speed, especially at high psi)
> Or you can try a madmax valve and realize how much your previous valve was sucking at life :laugh:.


 
I am taking full credit for the "Madmax Valve" moniker. :laugh:


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## bvgoosedd (Mar 5, 2009)

can it cus your boost to like buzz. like 22-24-20-23-21-24psi type thing. also feel like crap at ideal?


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

bvgoosedd said:


> can it cus your boost to like buzz. like 22-24-20-23-21-24psi type thing. also feel like crap at ideal?


 
yes, those could all be symptoms of a DV issue. They could also be explained by a boost leak though. What kind of DV are you using now?


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## bvgoosedd (Mar 5, 2009)

hyperboost but i am big turbo. if that makes a difference


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

omerkm1 said:


> I am taking full credit for the "Madmax Valve" moniker. :laugh:


 I give credit where credit is due, you are the one that came up with the term "Madmax DV" for the TT, you can also give yourself credit to be the first one to rocking it(mine was the prototype) .


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

madmax199 said:


> I give credit where credit is due, you are the one that came up with the term "Madmax DV" for the TT, you can also give yourself credit to be the first one to rocking it(mine was the prototype) .


 :beer: 

you guys are starting to make me wish I lived on the other coast. Not much love for the TT and all its madness in the NW. I was supposed to be in upstate NY next month but that race got cancelled, now it maybe early summer next time I am out there. 

Thanks for all the help.


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

madmax199 said:


> Omer, can you post a picture of the valve mounted. I'd like to see it on car without a dv relocation(if you don't have one). Thanks


 
here you go....


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## Volksdude27 (Nov 25, 2005)

omerkm1 said:


> here you go....


 
how come that your pressure tube at the top of the valve is in front? mine is at the back and I had to extend the rubber tube a lot to make it fit (anyway, I'll take care of that with my SAI-N249 delete anyway)


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

Volksdude27 said:


> how come that your pressure tube at the top of the valve is in front? mine is at the back and I had to extend the rubber tube a lot to make it fit (anyway, I'll take care of that with my SAI-N249 delete anyway)


 
I will let Max answer that, my install instructions were just to remove old DV and re-install new DV in a identical fashion. I think it looks pretty cool sitting up that high but it also means that the engine cover doesnt fit. It might have to do with already having a forge DV installed? I bought the car and have slowly found more and more parts that the original owner had swapped out.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

Volksdude27 said:


> how come that your pressure tube at the top of the valve is in front? mine is at the back and I had to extend the rubber tube a lot to make it fit (anyway, I'll take care of that with my SAI-N249 delete anyway)


 You have the wrong variation (for the TT) of the same valve. 

Although identical in function, the valves designed for EVO 9 and MR have a different nipple orientation than the valves on the JDM evo and EVO X(mainly because of different piping location on the various motors). 

I could have told you what type to get for the best fit, but Omer already had a patent on the Madmax valve :laugh:. 

Try opening and flipping the nipple 360 degrees, bang your head a little bit :banghead: and rotate it another 180 :laugh:.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

Omer, thanks for the pics :beer:. 
The install looks clean:thumbup:.


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

madmax199 said:


> Omer, thanks for the pics :beer:.
> The install looks clean:thumbup:.


 Yeah, it was super easy. It will be fun to report back how 20+psi of boost makes the DV behave. Best thing so far is the improved throttle response and reduction in surging. 

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## tt_kcalb_nevar (Feb 26, 2010)

Can anyone tell me how this compares to the Forge Splitter valve?


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

tt_kcalb_nevar said:


> Can anyone tell me how this compares to the Forge Splitter valve?


 
I had a 007 which is probably similar to your splitter valve. Its like night and day with the Madmax DV. No more surging and you hit boost much more quickly after shifting.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

tt_kcalb_nevar said:


> Can anyone tell me how this compares to the Forge Splitter valve?


 Not in the same league :banghead:. 

Forge 007 ---------Slooooow 
Forge splitter ----Slooooow with a horn to remind you that it's slow 
Madmax dv-------Everything that these valves lack


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## tt_kcalb_nevar (Feb 26, 2010)

madmax199 said:


> Not in the same league :banghead:.
> 
> Forge 007 ---------Slooooow
> Forge splitter ----Slooooow with a horn to remind you that it's slow
> Madmax dv-------Everything that these valves lack


 
Hehe, Thanks Omer and Madmax, ok I guess the Splitter is going into the classifieds!


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## Volksdude27 (Nov 25, 2005)

omerkm1 said:


> Yeah, it was super easy. It will be fun to report back how 20+psi of boost makes the DV behave. Best thing so far is the improved throttle response and reduction in surging.
> 
> :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


 I can tell from 20+ psi, and it rooocks!!! 

Damn if I had a camera...


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

Volksdude27 said:


> I can tell from 20+ psi, and it rooocks!!!
> 
> Damn if I had a camera...


 Yes, being able to hold 35+ psi without leaking a drop of boost- while keeping faster than stock response and recovery is the reason I built this valve. 

High boost is where it really shined above the rest. 

I tested the valve up to 45 psi(we stopped at 45 because we feared of blowing the worm clamps on the tester) and it held without cracking open. What is really amazing to me is that low boost and part throttle are not affected at all, if anything they improved over stock.


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

still have more of these? The more I close up my system, get connections tighter and the more boost I hold....the more I've started hated my Strat valve each time. If this woud solve the problem...that'd be great. 

Always have felt piston valves...while less prone to wear/tear and ripping vs. diaphrapm...and "look" good.....are SLOW and suck. 

Options are nice. 

Looking to do this and I actually have a DV relocation kit installed in the car. 

Joe


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

RabbitGTDguy said:


> still have more of these? The more I close up my system, get connections tighter and the more boost I hold....the more I've started hated my Strat valve each time. If this woud solve the problem...that'd be great.
> 
> Always have felt piston valves...while less prone to wear/tear and ripping vs. diaphrapm...and "look" good.....are SLOW and suck.
> 
> ...


 Joe, you can buy the valve and DIY or pm me if you want me to build you one. I include all the necessary hardware to make it plug and play, and you have the peace of mind that it's done properly. 

I have it working flawlessly, on 500 HP evos and a 800 HP Supra at insane psi. If you are looking for real throttle bypass for your TT, this is it.


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## 6T1 (Jan 28, 2002)

madmax199 said:


> Joe, you can buy the valve and DIY or pm me if you want me to build you one. I include all the necessary hardware to make it plug and play, and you have the peace of mind that it's done properly.
> 
> I have it working flawlessly, on 500 HP evos and a 800 HP Supra at insane psi. If you are looking for real throttle bypass for your TT, this is it.


 Can you message me how much you want for the plug and play setup from you please.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

6T1 said:


> Can you message me how much you want for the plug and play setup from you please.


 Will do sir


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## tt_kcalb_nevar (Feb 26, 2010)

Just ordered one, cant wait to get it!:thumbup:


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

its awesome to see people getting excited about this!


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## tt_kcalb_nevar (Feb 26, 2010)

I got my valve in today. Looks great! Package was great! Lots of bubble wrap and all the necessary parts included! I couldnt wait till the morning to install it sooooooo I went ahead and did so at 11 pm 

I wanted to take it for a spin and feel the difference, but I couldnt!

So I sit in my car and turn it on. Everything seems ok until it just sputters and dies! Hmmm strange I thought, maybe its just a one time thing. Tried it 4 more times, same thing. Turns on fine, idles fine for a few seconds, then dies!

Then I tried to rev the motor a bit, nothing major, just to about 1500rpm and keep it there for a few seconds. It does the same thing except when its at fifteen it sputters a bit more then dies. Tried reving higher and noticed total turbo flutter, let off the throttle, sputtered then died.

Here are pics of my install:

























































I'm sure that I probably did something wrong here, but I can't figure out what that might be! Do you guys notice anything strange in those pics?


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

Your install looks right, at least from the pictures. I would take it out and double check that all the clamps are tight and there is no leak(especially on the valve vaccum nipple and under the manifold). 

The "turbo flutter noise" is the valve working, it's super fast in operation and sound like a flutter but it's impossible to have real "turbo flutter" at idle. Volksdude27 had the same concern with his valve because of the unusual rapid sound but his valve is fine.

If you have a MAF, let it adapt for a few minutes and the stumbling/stalling should go away(providing you have no vaccum leaks). It's like blowing a turbo hose, when you put the hose back on, it takes a little bit for the car to adapt back(ecu trying to compensate for unacounted air).

Check your hoses and clamps, let the car adapt for a few minutes(even if it stumbles and dies, start it again and let it run) and report:beer: .


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

I can take a look at my car later today and see if anything looks incorrect. :thumbup:


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## tt_kcalb_nevar (Feb 26, 2010)

Awesome guys thanks for the reply! One thing I forgot to mention is that the car was showing vacuum higher than it normally does.

On a first start when it's cold the vacuum shows at about 10psi and then gradually builds up to 20 once the car is warmed up. Last night with the car cold it was showing 25-30psi.

I don't know if that'll help any but figured I'd let you know. I will check the connections again but I did check them last night and they're air tight! I'm sure it might be the MAF issue that Max mentioned. Hopefully it is! I'll try in a bit and report back, thanks guys!


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## tt_kcalb_nevar (Feb 26, 2010)

Ok so I checked it out and all the connections are on fine. I tried starting it and letting the maf reset itself. Heres a video of whats happening... 





 
What you think? Im going to disconnect the battery to see if itll reset....


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

Something is off, it almost sound like a valve stuck open if you have all your connections done correctly. 

I'm gonna send you another valve to try and we'll take it from there.


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## tt_kcalb_nevar (Feb 26, 2010)

Thanks Max! Thats really awesome of you to do! You have my business for life! Come up with the MADMAX Valve 2 and Ill be first in line! Kinda like the obsessive apple fans, except, what Im buying isnt overpriced outdated shiny junk!

Im going to take off the valve to see if I can see anything weird about the way its performing.


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## tt_kcalb_nevar (Feb 26, 2010)

Hey Max,

I took the valve off and when I press the little round flap inside the valve, it is extremely stiff! I mean It takes some real force to get it to move back. I used the round butt end of a screwdriver to try and push it back and it barely moved and Im a pretty strong guy! Ill open the valve to see if I can notice anything strange...


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## tt_kcalb_nevar (Feb 26, 2010)

I just want to check and make sure I'm not being totally dumb here...

This is not the correct orientation:


















But this is:









Am I correct? I just want to rule out any stupid mistakes on my part.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

tt_kcalb_nevar said:


> I just want to check and make sure I'm not being totally dumb here...
> 
> This is not the correct orientation:
> 
> ...


Yes you are correct, the pressure side is at the bottom of the valve(the part that you pushed with the screwdriver handle to test the spring tension). The side outlet diverts the air back to the TIP.

The only thing I can suggest, while the other valve is on its way, is to put your original valve back, to rule out any error and make the valve the only variable.


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## tt_kcalb_nevar (Feb 26, 2010)

madmax199 said:


> Yes you are correct, the pressure side is at the bottom of the valve(the part that you pushed with the screwdriver handle to test the spring tension). The side outlet diverts the air back to the TIP.
> 
> The only thing I can suggest, while the other valve is on its way, is to put your original valve back, to rule out any error and make the valve the only variable.


 
Thanks Max, I was thinking of putting the Bosch unit back on, only problem is I had to cut some of the hose from the pressure side to make it all fit.. 

No worries though, Ill figure something out.

:beer:


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## Volksdude27 (Nov 25, 2005)

tt_kcalb_nevar said:


> Ok so I checked it out and all the connections are on fine. I tried starting it and letting the maf reset itself. Heres a video of whats happening...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


damn I like that fluttering sound!!

Two things are worrying me in that vid tho:

1st: Why is your boost gauge fluctuating like that?? going all up and down, the only thing I'm thinking of is that you have an electronic boost sensor and that's the gauge "warming up"

2: The valve is wayy too lound for an unloaded gas hit, well maybe not for the k04 (been a while since i have something bigger in there) but the valve sounds just like mine when it opens at 20 psi but your at idle just playing with gas...

3. From the video, the first thing that comes to my mind looking at the car stalling like that is fuel starvation, just like if the injectors were cutted off after a few seconds.

As for the base of the valve being so stiff, that's normal, like madmax said, it's the reason why they can hold big boost numbers

You should log your car with vagcom to see what's happening,


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## Tempes_TT (Oct 24, 2010)

Looks very promising! Nice job Madmax! :thumbup: 

I kinda want one... but im running a 180 tt on a puny k03 so it probably wont be very beneficial...yet


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## tt_kcalb_nevar (Feb 26, 2010)

Volksdude27 said:


> damn I like that fluttering sound!!
> 
> Two things are worrying me in that vid tho:
> 
> ...


Hi Volksdude27,

1. Yea thats just the "opening cerimony" thing the gauge does, totally normal for that gauge.

2. Hmm, maybe it is because I have a cone filter without the airbox. The noise from the air intake sounds loud all the time. I dont know if that is what you mean when referring to the noise. 

3. Im thinking it might be as well. Today I was able to get some hoses together to make the bosch unit fit since I had cut some of the original hose for the adapters. I had to sacrifice Patty, my old college beer bong... The hose was the perfect diameter... RIP Patty! We had some good times together girl! 

Once I got the hoses connected to the bosh unit I started the car and it started fine, idled fine, then, bam, same thing!

I think youre right it might be a fuel issue, or maybe tps?? When I was applying throttle the engine would bog down and die, or the rpm would climb, but always a bog before climbing...

I feel bad for not figuring this out before max sent out the valve.

Max, once I fix this Im going to install the original valve. If it all works fine I will send back the replacement at my cost and paypal you the shipping you paid sending it to me. Thanks again man!

:beer:


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

tt_kcalb_nevar said:


> Hi Volksdude27,
> 
> 1. Yea thats just the "opening cerimony" thing the gauge does, totally normal for that gauge.
> 
> ...


Sorry to hear about Patty

Bingo, I was puzzled by the assumption that the valve was making the car behave this way especially at idle and no load (I always test them on my car at 33 psi before I let them go).

Don't sweat the shipping, just send one of the valves back to me. I'm more concerned about keeping my 100% success rate alive and getting your issue resolved :beer:.

Did you add/disconnect anything on the car lately?

The noise you have is normal, it's the valve working and it's fast. In my car, when I remove the air filter heat shield, it sounds exactly like that.


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## tt_kcalb_nevar (Feb 26, 2010)

Yea sorry again for the trouble Max! Its strange because I had driven the car the entire day prior to the first install of your valve, and everything worked perfectly fine! Then a few hours later when I install the valve, this nonsense happens! Just a bad coincidence I guess!

Now I dont really know where to start. Since the fuel filter is the cheapest option, Im going to replace that first. I really hope that fixes the issue!

Enough highjacking of your thread, maybe Ill start a new one.


:beer:


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## tt_kcalb_nevar (Feb 26, 2010)

Ok I finally got the new TIP on and installed the MADMAX Valve and took her for a spin!




The difference is incredible!!!! Boost builds up quicker than it ever has! Holds longer than it has! I cant wait to adjust the boost machine and see how high it can go!

If anyone is on the fence about this valve, BUY IT! Youll be very happy that you did!


Max :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: on an great product!!!

:beer:


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## MKllllvr28 (Sep 15, 2005)

video!


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## tt_kcalb_nevar (Feb 26, 2010)

MKllllvr28 said:


> video!


I'll record and upload one tomorrow. I wanted to do one today but by the time I finished with everything it was too dark and I too tired!

I can't stress enough how much better the acceleration is!


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

tt_kcalb_nevar said:


> Ok I finally got the new TIP on and installed the MADMAX Valve and took her for a spin!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for the review :beer::beer::beer:

This thing really rock.
I have yet to find another valve that flows that much volume, holds so much boost while being sooooo fast in response and recovery(less than 1 psi). 

*External boost reference hole drilled*



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


*Internal boost reference port plugged(machined metal plug so no more JB weld)*




Uploaded with ImageShack.us






Uploaded with ImageShack.us


*Mounted on my car with clear hose to show the reducers needed to go from 4G63T to 1.8T sizes *




Uploaded with ImageShack.us


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

madmax199 said:


> Thanks for the review :beer::beer::beer:
> 
> This thing really rock.
> I have yet to find another valve that flows that much volume, holds so much boost while being sooooo fast in response and recovery(less than 1 psi).
> ...



Max - Are you running a DV relocation set up? Your DV is in a much different place than mine. I have read about the Forge kit that moves the DV to the cold side of the turbo.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

omerkm1 said:


> Max - Are you running a DV relocation set up? Your DV is in a much different place than mine. I have read about the Forge kit that moves the DV to the cold side of the turbo.


Yes I have a dv cold side relo, it is home made using an evo metal charge pipe that I also use for one my water injection nozzles.


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## tt_kcalb_nevar (Feb 26, 2010)

madmax199 said:


> Yes I have a dv cold side relo, it is home made using an evo metal charge pipe that I also use for one my water injection nozzles.


 
Keep that up Max and you car will have more Evo parts than it does Audi parts! 

Hell, ours might too! 

:beer:


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## tt_kcalb_nevar (Feb 26, 2010)

Hey guys,

here is the video I promised. Sorry about the shaky quality, I was recording as I was driving.


I can do a new one with a friend holding the camera, so you can see the tach and road zoom by. 

Anyway here it is:





 
:beer:


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## Tempes_TT (Oct 24, 2010)

tt_kcalb_nevar said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> here is the video I promised. Sorry about the shaky quality, I was recording as I was driving.
> 
> ...


:thumbup:Love it! You still running stock k04 turbo??


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## tt_kcalb_nevar (Feb 26, 2010)

Tempes_TT said:


> :thumbup:Love it! You still running stock k04 turbo??


Yes sir, stock k04 with 91oct apr tune


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

tt_kcalb_nevar said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> here is the video I promised. Sorry about the shaky quality, I was recording as I was driving.
> 
> ...



Niiice, isn't it crazy how much of your boost and power a simple DV can rob. There is at least a good 10 whp unleashed with a much better power curve because of the better spool.


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

I cant wait to see how the DV helps a BT application. Something like a GT35R or HPA5557 with a spool of around 4k rpms. I think you could see a nice reduction in spool time with just this DV. 

Thanks again Max!


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## Volksdude27 (Nov 25, 2005)

omerkm1 said:


> I cant wait to see how the DV helps a BT application. Something like a GT35R or HPA5557 with a spool of around 4k rpms. I think you could see a nice reduction in spool time with just this DV.
> 
> Thanks again Max!


I can tell with an eliminator GT2871R, so f*ck all the people that said these can't make full frame spool and obviously when I'll put my High flow mani, all the power as well!!


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

Volksdude27 said:


> I can tell with an eliminator GT2871R, so f*ck all the people that said these can't make full frame spool and obviously when I'll put my High flow mani, all the power as well!!



ha ha.... :beer:


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## MKllllvr28 (Sep 15, 2005)

I'll also be running one of these that i made by following maxx's process on my s256 build. no reducers tho and i wont be recirculating. I'm pretty excited.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

omerkm1 said:


> I cant wait to see how the DV helps a BT application. Something like a GT35R or HPA5557 with a spool of around 4k rpms. I think you could see a nice reduction in spool time with just this DV.
> 
> Thanks again Max!


The valve is also a killer on evos (2L engine) running 40 psi. I think that these conditions should simulate 1.8t BT situations.


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

simply amazing Max... as I told ya, trying the R1 now (did you have recover times for that one?) and if it doesn't suite my needs...def. going this route. Had already gotten the used R1 by the time I read your PM to me! 

This is great stuff...is the diaphrapm of the EVO valve prone to tearing, etc? 

Joe


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

Joe, in my years of dealing with the valve, I have not seen one diaphragm rip in normal conditions. The only time I have seen the diaphragm fail was metal to rubber separation due to a butchered crushing. The rubber is supper thick and extremely heavy duty (industrial grade).

I work for Mitsubishi and a ralliart version with stiffer springs (the crushing makes the normal one as stiff) was/is used in their Motorsports applications(the US program was dropped years ago but still active in Europe). 
All the evos, Pajeros and L200(greatest pickup truck ever made) raced around the world, including the Paris-Dakar, put this diaphragm to the test with virtually no failure. Trust me you can't rip that thing even if you were trying to.


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

MKllllvr28 said:


> I'll also be running one of these that i made by following maxx's process on my s256 build. no reducers tho and i wont be recirculating. I'm pretty excited.



Make sure to do a build thread here on vortex so we can watch the results. opcorn:


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

madmax199 said:


> The valve is also a killer on evos (2L engine) running 40 psi. I think that these conditions should simulate 1.8t BT situations.



I think about TT vs Evo every time I see a EVo driving around. I almost bought one before I got the TT but the insanely high insurance and also the fact that every evo 8 I found was completely blown apart from the previous owner made me think otherwise. The TT can go just as fast with more style.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

omerkm1 said:


> I think about TT vs Evo every time I see a EVo driving around. I almost bought one before I got the TT but the insanely high insurance and also the fact that every evo 8 I found was completely blown apart from the previous owner made me think otherwise. The TT can go just as fast with more style.


Saying that they can go just as fast is a little bit of a strech. The weight is about the same on both cars and I can squeeze over 400 awhp and 400 awtq out of an evo 8/9 (providing they are on the 10.5 02 housing and running the 9 turbo with either meth or E85). All that on OEM turbo, internals, and no cams. The 1.8t can only make 300awhp and 400awtq with the same mods + E85+ water meth and it needs internals and a prayer (at least rods).


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

madmax199 said:


> Saying that they can go just as fast is a little bit of a strech. The weight is about the same on both cars and I can squeeze over 400 awhp and 400 awtq out of an evo 8/9 (providing they are on the 10.5 02 housing and running the 9 turbo with either meth or E85). All that on OEM turbo, internals, and no cams. The 1.8t can only make 300awhp and 400awtq with the same mods + E85+ water meth and it needs internals and a prayer (at least rods).



I think when you look at insurance and cost of the car, then add the mods. The TT is a cheaper build, at least in Oregon it is. Used, beat to hell Evo 9's are $18-20k. TT cost me $10k. That leaves $10k for mods. It still wont be the same car, but anybody can make a Evo fast..... :laugh:


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

omerkm1 said:


> but anybody can make a Evo fast..... :laugh:


I don't know if agree with that part of your argument


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## omerkm1 (Feb 23, 2010)

madmax199 said:


> I don't know if agree with that part of your argument



ha ha.... anyone with access to a good tuner. again, I am spoiled in Oregon with access to English Racing. Now if I could just get them to tune my TT. :thumbup:


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

omerkm1 said:


> ha ha.... anyone with access to a good tuner. again, I am spoiled in Oregon with access to English Racing. Now if I could just get them to tune my TT. :thumbup:


True English Racing does good work with the evos but for the TT you need to come to NY.
Force Fed Engineering, TyrolSport, and Pag parts turbo (see how I put Tyrol in between the two because they don't mix) are all local to me.


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## MKllllvr28 (Sep 15, 2005)

hey maxx when you blow in thru the inlet side of the valve are you supposed to get air coming out that hole you drilled? i'm just trying to make sure i did it right...:facepalm:


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

MKllllvr28 said:


> hey maxx when you blow in thru the inlet side of the valve are you supposed to get air coming out that hole you drilled? i'm just trying to make sure i did it right...:facepalm:


Ok, to make sure we are on the same page:
Inlet is the bottom of the valve
Outlet is on the side of the valve

Now if you're blowing air through the inlet you should not have air escape through the external relief vent that you drilled because the diaphragm is down and sealing the metal bypass door shut. Did you plug the factory internal hole? If not, it's the only way air would make its way out of that hole.

*Internal port open*



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


*Internal port closed with my machined plug*



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


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## MKllllvr28 (Sep 15, 2005)

ok then my question was wrong. when you blow through the outlet should air come out through the external relief port? i plugged the internal port just like you showed.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

MKllllvr28 said:


> ok then my question was wrong. when you blow through the outlet should air come out through the external relief port? i plugged the internal port just like you showed.


Yes, blowing air through the outlet should direct air to the top chamber and leak out in both external relief port and vaccum nipple. Don't worry, that' s normal.


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## MKllllvr28 (Sep 15, 2005)

alright thanks max i appreciate the help. :thumbup:


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

madmax199 said:


> Joe, in my years of dealing with the valve, I have not seen one diaphragm rip in normal conditions. The only time I have seen the diaphragm fail was metal to rubber separation due to a butchered crushing. The rubber is supper thick and extremely heavy duty (industrial grade).
> 
> I work for Mitsubishi and a ralliart version with stiffer springs (the crushing makes the normal one as stiff) was/is used in their Motorsports applications(the US program was dropped years ago but still active in Europe).
> All the evos, Pajeros and L200(greatest pickup truck ever made) raced around the world, including the Paris-Dakar, put this diaphragm to the test with virtually no failure. Trust me you can't rip that thing even if you were trying to.


thats simply amazing for an OEM piece. Have thought for years that Mitz and their rally/motorsport tech development that ends up on OEM production cars is just simply astounding... no wonder they hold a performance corner with things. 


Joe


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

It looks like I'll be the next one up to install and run the "MADMAX DV". I'll post my review, and hopefully a video. Can't wait to get this damn thing on! Oh and the sound of the DV... SICK!


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

warranty225cpe said:


> It looks like I'll be the next one up to install and run the "MADMAX DV". I'll post my review, and hopefully a video. Can't wait to get this damn thing on! Oh and the sound of the DV... SICK!


You're going to love the performance improvement the valve provides, the sick sound is nice too  .



*Best kept secret in the 1.8t world*


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

I boxed up my Forge and sent it to the guy that bought it. So I've been driving around with my stock Bosch valve. I was a little worried that it wouldn't hold up. But it's been fine so far. The throttle response is pretty nice.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

warranty225cpe said:


> I boxed up my Forge and sent it to the guy that bought it. So I've been driving around with my stock Bosch valve. I was a little worried that it wouldn't hold up. But it's been fine so far. The throttle response is pretty nice.


A little patience and you will be enjoying even faster response than the bosh unit while being able to hold all the boost you can make.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

It scheduled for delivery tomorrow. I have plenty of patience, just hoping the Bosch lasts till then. It's fluttering like crazy when it opens.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

warranty225cpe said:


> It scheduled for delivery tomorrow. I have plenty of patience, just hoping the Bosch lasts till then. It's fluttering like crazy when it opens.


All diaphragm DV "flutter" when open, as they are rapidly following the pressure waves of air being bypassed. That's normal and doesn't affect the way they perform. It's when you hear that fluttering sound when the valve is supposed to be closed that the DV is not capable of holding boost and is partially open, leaking your boost/power away :beer:.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

I just got the deilvery confirmation that my valve is sitting in front of my door. And of course, Im at work till 11m:banghead: Looks like Im gonna have to wait till tomorrow morning to put it on. if I can wait, lol. Might have to throw it on when I get home.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

warranty225cpe said:


> I just got the deilvery confirmation that my valve is sitting in front of my door. And of course, Im at work till 11m:banghead: Looks like Im gonna have to wait till tomorrow morning to put it on. if I can wait, lol. Might have to throw it on when I get home.


It's a 5 minutes install, but you may end up driving all night on the test drive LOL. I am heading home to meet with spartiati right now to build/install a valve on his FrankenTurbo VW (first VW to rock a madmax DV).


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

madmax199 said:


> It's a 5 minutes install, but you may end up driving all night on the test drive LOL. I am heading home to meet with spartiati right now to build/install a valve on his FrankenTurbo VW (first VW to rock a madmax DV).


Lol, lets hope so. It might take me a little longer to make sure my DV reloc hoses are all the right length. And I im guessing that since the MM DV has the adapters, it might need some trimming.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Well, HOLY S H I T! I had no idea that my Forge 007 sucked that much. The throttle response is damn near immediate! I haven't had a chance yet to take it on the highway to hit some higher speeds, but I will in the next few days (too many beers at the GTG). Either way, it's AMAZING! so glad I went ahead with this DV. the response, recovery, and the sound, dropped my jaw to the floor mat! Fuchin sweet!

There will be a video coming shortly. The shifts in the video were so smooth/fast, that I must have watched it 5 times. As soon as the video is up I'll post it. I was amazed!

Thanks Max! Couldn't be happier with the new "MadMax valve".:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

Niiice, I want to see videos now, stop slacking Eric  !


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

madmax199 said:


> Niiice, I want to see videos now, stop slacking Eric  !


I'm waiting for the guy that took the video to finish editing and send the vid.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

As promised..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eegS0EObSIE


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

Thanks for sharing! Capturing the upshift recovery is very cool :thumbup:


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Thanks for making such a sweet dv!


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Heres a few pics..





































I decided to shoot it with some black, lol, and i added a forge sticker to it.:laugh:


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

warranty225cpe said:


> and i added a forge sticker to it.:laugh:


 :laugh::laugh::laugh: ironic and funny! 
Nice touch with the flat black!


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## [email protected] (Oct 16, 2006)

Well my valve came in over the weekend, had a chance to install it this evening, and just like everyone in this thread I am astonished at the difference between this and my Forge007. I was not able on it as much as I wanted to as my clutch started slipping over the weekend but this thing is GREAT. I have had quite a few valves over the year, Forge 007, Forge Spitter, HKS SSQ, a few Turbo-Smarts, stock 710n... and then theres the MadMax Valve. Blows everything out of the water by a long shot. Throttle response is improved, holds boost much better and recovery is out of this world. Very very VERY happy with this valve. Don't think I will be replacing this for quite some time.

Great valve, thanks so much Max for helping me out with this! Would highly recommend this valve to anyone, even if you just spent $400 on a new valve. Its worth it. 

:thumbup::thumbup: for the MadMax valve!!!

I will most likely post again once I replace my clutch and get to have some REAL fun with this valve


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Blows everything out of the water by a long shot. Throttle response is improved, holds boost much better and recovery is out of this world. Very very VERY happy with this valve. Don't think I will be replacing this for quite some time.


Couldnt agree more.:beer::beer::beer:


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## coachvtt (Jan 16, 2008)

*Hey MadMax!*

I just sent in a request for the MadMax DV! 

I drove Warranty's TT over the weekend, I'm sold. 

Where do I send the money to? I want one! 

Coachvtt


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

coachvtt said:


> I just sent in a request for the MadMax DV!
> 
> I drove Warranty's TT over the weekend, I'm sold.
> 
> ...


 Pm replied :beer:!


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

coachvtt said:


> I just sent in a request for the MadMax DV!
> I drove Warranty's TT over the weekend, I'm sold.
> Where do I send the money to? I want one!
> Coachvtt


 Damn, you drove my car on Saturday. Guess I was a little deeper in that beer cooler than I thought. 


madmax199 said:


> Pm replied :beer:!


 Not even birthing babies slows this guy down! Lol


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

warranty225cpe said:


> Not even birthing babies slows this guy down! Lol


 :laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## mbaron (Aug 21, 2008)

I was just looking through Evo forums, trying to find a used one, and found an ad for Synapse Synchronic Diverter Valve. Anyone heard of this, it looks pretty awesome.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

mbaron said:


> I was just looking through Evo forums, trying to find a used one, and found an ad for Synapse Synchronic Diverter Valve. Anyone heard of this, it looks pretty awesome.


 Supposedly the new king of aftermarket valve. I can also tell you that the Madmax dv recovers sooner . Oh I almost forgot, I still have mine for sale if you are interested


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## KN78 (Feb 2, 2010)

sounds pretty interesting! how much for the whole set up?!


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

KN78 said:


> sounds pretty interesting! how much for the whole set up?!


 I can't post pricing, per forum rules, but shoot me a pm and I'll give you all the details :beer:


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## awwvolks (Nov 2, 2010)

this post just saved me 85 bucks. i was about to order APR r1 and stumble upon this. just order the evo valve and cant wait to install it. i have a 3076 and between shifts the car is sluggish and i have idle issues due to the 50mm Tialsport bov. 

hopefully this will fix both issues!!! 

great idea madmax199:thumbup:


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

awwvolks said:


> this post just saved me 85 bucks. i was about to order APR r1 and stumble upon this. just order the evo valve and cant wait to install it. i have a 3076 and between shifts the car is sluggish and i have idle issues due to the 50mm Tialsport bov.
> 
> hopefully this will fix both issues!!!
> 
> great idea madmax199:thumbup:


 You're going to love it! 

Make sure you don't over crush it, there is a sweet spot between preloading the spring and reducing travel on the diaphragm. It took me some time and a few wasted valves before I mastered it. You're better off, not crushing it enough, than over doing it. Plugging the internal boost reference port and drilling the external vent is also important, make sure you do it. The last piece of advice I can give, with your situation, is to make sure you run the valve in "push orientation"(pressure going under the diaphragm and having the side outlet recirculate. It'll help with the part throttle and in-between shifts behavior. In my car, I run it daily in "push orientation" and reverse it to "pull orientation" when I'm hitting the track where it's all about power and speed of release, not drivability.


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## awwvolks (Nov 2, 2010)

madmax199 said:


> You're going to love it!
> 
> Make sure you don't over crush it, there is a sweet spot between preloading the spring and reducing travel on the diaphragm. It took me some time and a few wasted valves before I mastered it. You're better off, not crushing it enough, than over doing it. Plugging the internal boost reference port and drilling the external vent is also important, make sure you do it. The last piece of advice I can give, with your situation, is to make sure you run the valve in "push orientation"(pressure going under the diaphragm and having the side outlet recirculate. It'll help with the part throttle and in-between shifts behavior. In my car, I run it daily in "push orientation" and reverse it to "pull orientation" when I'm hitting the track where it's all about power and speed of release, not drivability.


 yeah i was only going to crush it about 1/16" at first. i dont want fluttering issues 

can you explain what the external vent does? ill try it out in both orientations when i get a chance to see what your saying. 

thanks for the tips


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

awwvolks said:


> yeah i was only going to crush it about 1/16" at first. i dont want fluttering issues
> 
> can you explain what the external vent does? ill try it out in both orientations when i get a chance to see what your saying.
> 
> thanks for the tips


 In your case and most normal situations (DD that are not dedicated track cars) I strongly recommend the conventional push orientation, with the boost going under the diaphragm. It's safer and driveability is improved because you are not only relying on vacuum to release the valve. 

On a push type installed valve, if there is a situation where you are not getting vacuum or the manifold/pre TB differential is high (part throttle), you will still have bypass when the spring get to it's max holding capacity (preventing back pressure on the turbo). 

I will PM you with details on the operation of the externally vented pressure hole.


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## awwvolks (Nov 2, 2010)

ok thanks 
looking forward to the pm


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## awwvolks (Nov 2, 2010)

i just realized that i know your car from Waterfest 2010 you autocrossed with those phat a$$ slicks. my friend ran the silver b6 s4. what a small world lol


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## 20psi now (Feb 26, 2009)

madmax199 said:


> In your case and most normal situations (DD that are not dedicated track cars) I strongly recommend the conventional push orientation, with the boost going under the diaphragm. It's safer and driveability is improved because you are not only relying on vacuum to release the valve.
> 
> On a push type installed valve, if there is a situation where you are not getting vacuum or the manifold/pre TB differential is high (part throttle), you will still have bypass when the spring get to it's max holding capacity (preventing back pressure on the turbo).
> 
> I will PM you with details on the operation of the externally vented pressure hole.


 ok madmax i dont really under stand how useing the valve in push or pull makes one way more track/street... i have a apr r1 and the way they say to set it up in (oem) way its pull type and but my trubo xs type 25 is set up in push.. they both act the same and when venting and it seems that my turbo xs being a pistion type is faster then the r1.. any way you look at it there will be a pressure single on the diaphragm on the (r1 or your valve) or on the psiton it self when you let off the gas but but unless you run a piston type valve you run in to the problem if you dont get a vacumm to the valve in pull type set up, sorry if this dont make sense but could you explane the the two set ups in a (pistion / rubber diaphragm) valve..


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

20psi now said:


> ok madmax i dont really under stand how useing the valve in push or pull makes one way more track/street... i have a apr r1 and the way they say to set it up in (oem) way its pull type and but my trubo xs type 25 is set up in push.. they both act the same and when venting and it seems that my turbo xs being a pistion type is faster then the r1.. any way you look at it there will be a pressure single on the diaphragm on the (r1 or your valve) or on the psiton it self when you let off the gas but but unless you run a piston type valve you run in to the problem if you dont get a vacumm to the valve in pull type set up, sorry if this dont make sense but could you explane the the two set ups in a (pistion / rubber diaphragm) valve..


 Ok, I took a few pics to help everyone understand. 

"Push type" is the best way to run a valve in normal conditions. In this orientation, you have boost coming under the diaphragm plate and exiting through the side outlet. What that does is make the valve operate normally with vacuum whenever the throttle is close, but the valve will also bypass air when the boost under the plate exceed the spring holding capacity(even without vaccum):thumbup:. 

"Pull type" is the "wrong way" to run a valve in normal situations, since only vacuum can release the valve. In this orientation boost pressure comes in the side outlet and exit under the plate at the bottom of the valve. Mounted this way, you could build boost past what's desired and not have the valve crack open. This could be bad in situations where there's a pressure differential between the manifold and the rest of the system after the TB plate(high load, part throttle in higher gears). When that happens, the throttle body plate is slightly open, so there's no vaccum in the manifold to release the valve, but the rest of the system is building boost to dangerously high levels:thumbdown:. 

*Normal "push orientation" that I run in my car everyday!* 

Uploaded with ImageShack.us 





*Race mode, pull type orientation with my X rated black valve* 


 

Uploaded with ImageShack.us 


*"pull type", pressure can't crack the valve open, unless vaccum sucks it up!* 


 

Uploaded with ImageShack.us 


*"Push type" pressure goes against the plate and can force it open without vaccum and in pressure differential situations * 


 

Uploaded with ImageShack.us


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## 20psi now (Feb 26, 2009)

ok madmax now i understand it better... :beer::beer:


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## Rotary-Amuse (Jul 19, 2010)

I am interested in your DV and glad I didn't waste money on the Forge unit I almost bought. 

Can you please PM me the details? 

Please note, my TT is my bone stock daily driver (for now anyways ), so in your opinion, what would be the best DV set up (referring to your pictures above, it would look like the push orientation.) 

Thanks


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

Rotary-Amuse said:


> I am interested in your DV and glad I didn't waste money on the Forge unit I almost bought.
> 
> Can you please PM me the details?
> 
> ...


*Yes, push like orientation is the best way, stock or modified*. 

The valves are designed to work and be mounted like that (bottom is inlet, side is outlet and some OEM valves even have flow direction arrows) . The reason you find OEM valves and some aftermarket valve mounted the other way is because they are trying to compensate for weak spring and leaky valves. The Bosh 710 has a 13lbs springs in it but start to compress at 8-9lbs, so the manufacturer reversed the orientation on the valve to boost the lack of performance a little bit.

I will PM you shortly about details on the "madmax valve" :beer:


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Max your mailbox is full!


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

warranty225cpe said:


> Max your mailbox is full!


Thanks, I will go empty it out right now!


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## awwvolks (Nov 2, 2010)

dude i cant believe this but the car feels great. boost gets built soooooo much quicker!

great mod man


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## ttwsm (Feb 27, 2011)

Could someone post up the Mitsubishi OEM part number? Clearly my search skills are lacking - I can't find it anywhere.


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Nice Work Sir.....


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

awwvolks said:


> dude i cant believe this but the car feels great. boost gets built soooooo much quicker!
> 
> great mod man


Glad you like it! Did you also get to do the WRX PCV upgrade?


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

ttwsm said:


> Could someone post up the Mitsubishi OEM part number? Clearly my search skills are lacking - I can't find it anywhere.


There are a few part numbers that would work when I check in CAPS (OEM parts catalog) but the vacuum nipple would be oriented in a weird spot. The Mitsubishi part number you want is: *K5T09275* :beer: .


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## awwvolks (Nov 2, 2010)

madmax199 said:


> Glad you like it! Did you also get to do the WRX PCV upgrade?


not yet, i have a catch can laying around i might just do that


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> Nice Work Sir.....


Thank you Sir!


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## spartiati (May 19, 2008)

Hey Max sorry for not dropping in earlier but I started summer classes and have been slammed ever since...

Love the Valve! Def makes a massive difference on respool between shifts. The faster you can shift the faster the damn valve shuts and respools. Everyone who tries this setup will not be disappointed in the least.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

spartiati said:


> Hey Max sorry for not dropping in earlier but I started summer classes and have been slammed ever since...
> 
> Love the Valve! Def makes a massive difference on respool between shifts. The faster you can shift the faster the damn valve shuts and respools. Everyone who tries this setup will not be disappointed in the least.



Hey Steve, I'm glad you like it! 
This the first VW with a "madmax valve" and the fact that your car is a beast with a FrankenTurbo running on Maestro makes it even cooler! :beer::beer::beer:


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## Polski Ogier (Dec 18, 2007)

Hey guys, just want to offer my input on this valve.

I have a 225 TT, with a REVO chip. After purchasing and installing the "Madmax" valve, I immediately noticed an improved and different driving experience. The boost holds better and turbo spools up quicker. Overall, I'm a very satisfied customer.

That said, if anyone has a Forge 007, Baileys (or any other "quality" DV) they would like to trade for a Madmax, please PM me. My only complaint with the Madmax valve is it is too "loud" for my liking. Don't get me wrong, the sound is awesome, with a heavy SWOOSH during shifting, but I prefer a quieter model to gain less attention. 

So, if you already have a Forge/APR/Bailey/quality valve, and want to even swap, please PM me. I have less than 100 miles on this valve.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

Polski Ogier said:


> Hey guys, just want to put in my input on this valve.
> 
> I have a 225 TT, with a REVO chip. I purchased the "Madmax" valve, and immediately noticed a different in driving experience. The boost holds much better, and turbo spools up quicker to full potential. Overall, I'm a very satisfied customer.
> 
> ...


I'm a 100% with you on that! 
The bloody thing is loud and sometimes I myself wish it would be quieter but it's a small price I have to pay for the performance improvement. The main reason it's loud is because of the amount of air being bypassed by the valve(good thing because you have more turbo protection) and I did some cool testing to quantify it (been wanting to post my findings but too busy lately).

I conducted my tests at *10 m/s* and *20 m/s* (velocity)
The tested valves were the OEM bosh unit, a Forge race diaphragm DV(thanks [email protected]) and the Madmax valve. ( I have no formal training for this kind of testing but since I have the tools at my disposal at work, I gave it a shot)

*Bosh and Forge* 
Size: 21 mm inlet/outlet
Volumetric flow rate @ 10 m/s: 12 cubic meter/hour
Volumetric flow rate @ 20 m/s: 24.93 cubic meter/hour

*Evo modified valve*
Size: 29 mm inlet/outlet
Volumetric flow rate @ 10 m/s: *23 cubic meter/hour*
Volumetric flow rate @ 20 m/s: *47.55 cubic meter/hour*

IMO the extra noise from flowing roughly twice the volume of air is annoying but worth the extra protection and performance!:beer: 
(Edit for pics of the valves tested)


*Forge diaphragm race DV *
Not such a bad valve when you used with the yellow spring and a 2 mm washer for preload. Do not try this DV with the blue spring in reverse orientation as the 1.8t doesn't generate enough vacuum to operate the valve. The modified evo valve still run laps around it though in the flow and recovery speed department. 




Uploaded with ImageShack.us


*EVO valve inlet and length of travel VS OEM Bosh unit*.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


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## KN78 (Feb 2, 2010)

I'll get one eventually!!! money is tight right now


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## 20psi now (Feb 26, 2009)

madmax199 said:


> Thanks, I will go empty it out right now!


PM'd you


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

20psi now said:


> PM'd you


Reply coming shortly!


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## TTurbo12 (Jun 28, 2011)

alright i gotta have one of these valves after going through this thread. lol after driving for a year with a forge 004 its a little embarrassing finding out i have just about the latest recovering valves out there 

Sending you a pm Polski Ogier!
I have an Evo motorsports valve. comparable with the 007


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

Polski Ogier...sent you a PM as well. Wanted to try Max's valve before but had already bought the APR R1 which I have currently and is nearly new. 

I won't mind the noise...

Also have a Strat DV as well...let me know. If its not already gone...

Joe


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## corradojohnt (Sep 16, 2007)

madmax199 said:


> Reply coming shortly!


I pm'd ya too. Need this valve kit!


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

corradojohnt said:


> I pm'd ya too. Need this valve kit!


I will send you a PM ASAP, I must have missed your message ! 
I get a little overwhelmed sometimes with the PMs, I get so many and try to answer them all but also have to rush or message box gets full :beer:.


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## 96AAAjetta (Jul 7, 2008)

Got mine in the mail yesterday. I cant speak for the quality as i only saw pics of it on Skype, and wont be able to install it for about 5 more months to test it out . But i can say that dealing with Max was very a very easy experience, and that what you pay for is exactly what you get, nothing less. I personally am a very satisfied customer and i've yet to even see the product i bought.


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

how bad would it be for the engine if i was going to do this?


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

Mantvis said:


> how bad would it be for the engine if i was going to do this?


You mean venting to the atmosphere instead of recirculating?

Well, it's not bad to the engine if you can tune for it. On a car running a MAF it's not a brillant idea since you'll be venting metered air. The car would go extremely rich on shifts and have problem idling since extra fuel was dumped for air that you are letting escape to the atmosphere(think a giant leak after the MAF). On a mafless tune, fueling is based on map and idling rely on primary O2 sensor readings mostly, so it could be made to work! Why go through the problems when recirculating your bypassed pressure works great with no impact on overall performance?


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## 96AAAjetta (Jul 7, 2008)

Or you could relocate the MAF to the other side of the BOV/DV. Then the MAF would be reading the air that is actually going into the engine so you should be able to VTA with no problem. Or if your not wild about dealing with wiring to run an actual BOV but you still want the noise just get the MadMax DV. Its plenty loud (from what i've heard) if its just noise that your looking for.


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## 20psi now (Feb 26, 2009)

96AAAjetta said:


> Or you could relocate the MAF to the other side of the BOV/DV. Then the MAF would be reading the air that is actually going into the engine so you should be able to VTA with no problem. Or if your not wild about dealing with wiring to run an actual BOV but you still want the noise just get the MadMax DV. Its plenty loud (from what i've heard) if its just noise that your looking for.


dont think it will work the same way the dsm guys do it... the maf would not last long you would need to convert to say a gm maf to make it a blow through set up. dont qote me though i have asked this before on other fourm and did not get much out of the thread.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

96AAAjetta said:


> Or you could relocate the MAF to the other side of the BOV/DV. Then the MAF would be reading the air that is actually going into the engine so you should be able to VTA with no problem. Or if your not wild about dealing with wiring to run an actual BOV but you still want the noise just get the MadMax DV. Its plenty loud (from what i've heard) if its just noise that your looking for.


While possible in theory, it would take a lot work to make and run right. On top of my head I can think of a few obstacles that would make it difficult if not impossible:

1) The 1.8t in by nature has a lot of oil blowby(ever removed the IC pipes to find them coated with oil), you'd have to find a way to cure the problem or the maf would be fouled in a matter of hours.

2) The piping would need to be the correct cross section as the maf housing. In my case a 3" ID that would create pressure loss and reduce performance.

3) The length of the straight pipe before the maf has a big influence on fueling and the tune. Tuning this to work right would would require a load specific software like maestro for all the fine tuning.


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Soo. Install a vent to atmosphere catch can, and tune with maestro? 

Sounds like many BT guys already have whats needed for a blow through maf? Eh?

The vag tuning scene is notoriously dense, and slow moving. Because of this; I never assume something wont work because it hasnt been done


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> Soo. Install a vent to atmosphere catch can, and tune with maestro?
> 
> Sounds like many BT guys already have whats needed for a blow through maf? Eh?
> 
> The vag tuning scene is notoriously dense, and slow moving. Because of this; I never assume something wont work because it hasnt been done


To me, the biggest drawback would be big IC pipe diameter needed to make this desirable, a 2.75" IC piping is probably the biggest diameter possible on a big big turbo without being plagued by added lag.

I am a fan of instant response and big torque early(sub 3000 rpm), and something like that wouldn't make much sense. Another thing to realize is that, nothing guarantees any performance gain over a conventional recirculation.

I totally agree with you though that the 1.8t scene is a little narrow minded, with inside the box approach to modifications.


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

You would only need a 2' section of pipe at 3" id though.. I wouldnt think that would make a noticable difference.. Would it?


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## corradojohnt (Sep 16, 2007)

madmax199 said:


> I will send you a PM ASAP, I must have missed your message !
> I get a little overwhelmed sometimes with the PMs, I get so many and try to answer them all but also have to rush or message box gets full :beer:.


^no worries Max, replied :beer:


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## Mantvis (Jan 1, 2010)

Yupp im after the noise! 

MadMax you have a PM from me  
Maybe we can work something out.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

Mantvis said:


> Yupp im after the noise!
> 
> MadMax you have a PM from me
> Maybe we can work something out.


PM replied Mantvis, thanks!


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

Just built a new compact DV tester and it's pretty cool! Smaller, portable with built in pressure gauge and regulator(to test at various psi) and the little sucker has the capability of testing:

- spring holding capacity (alone)

- valve holding capacity in pressure differential situation (like in real life situation where positive pressure is reaching both the inlet at the bottom and the vacuum niple at the top)

- Reaction speed with a hand held vacuum gun

This thing will not only make bench testing the madmax valves a breeze but also testing/embarassing the other valve a lot easier(a matter of switching hose size).
:beer::beer::beer: to myself and anyone smart enough to use this valve!




Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Very cool stuff! Now I'm curious..., What did find when you tested the one I sent to you compared to the usuall setup? I'm interested to know if there was a big difference in the preload? Or if you had an idea of the difference between the less aggressive preload.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

warranty225cpe said:


> Very cool stuff! Now I'm curious..., What did find when you tested the one I sent to you compared to the usuall setup? I'm interested to know if there was a big difference in the preload? Or if you had an idea of the difference between the less aggressive preload.


The regular one that everyone has start leaking at 40-45 psi, the X one I sent you and the one I race with leaks at 60 psi. The main difference(since we both don't run 45+ psi of boost) is that one releases at 15 Hg of vacuum while the other require a solid 20+ Hg of vacuum to operate but the X is faster(in recovery). I will never send that one to anyone with a 1.8t again because a simple vacuum leak make the valve's operation compromised(especially when mounted in revers/pull orientation). I'm going to use the one you sent me, in my car (I have a vacuum gauge to alert me of any leak in real time) since another member and friend on a deadline wanted the regular one I had badly:laugh:.


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

madmax199 said:


> The regular one that everyone has start leaking at 40-45 psi, the X one I sent you and the one I race with leaks at 60 psi. The main difference(since we both don't run 45+ psi of boost) is that one releases at 15 Hg of vacuum while the other require a solid 20+ Hg of vacuum to operate but the X is faster(in recovery). I will never send that one to anyone with a 1.8t again because a simple vacuum leak make the valve's operation compromised(especially when mounted in revers/pull orientation). I'm going to use the one you sent me, in my car (I have a vacuum gauge to alert me of any leak in real time) since another member and friend on a deadline wanted the regular one I had badly:laugh:.


Oh yeah baby! Can't wait to give it a try! Should find a R1 and test it Max....build a nice FAQ on DV's and have it stickied or added to the 1.8t FAQ. If this is as good as it sounds performance wise....it's quite a addition to the 1.8t world....

Joe


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

RabbitGTDguy said:


> Oh yeah baby! Can't wait to give it a try! If this is as good as it sounds performance wise....it's quite a addition to the 1.8t world....
> Joe


Lol, you have no idea! He cranked the depth of the crush down on mine a little more than usual because Im a fan of the quick throttle response. It was awesome! And at the time I had 4 different vac leaks. And it still felt great! I switched back to my stock bosch untill I got everything sealed up. I put the evo DV back on and it ran REALLY well. It was throwing a code for the DV because it was having a hard time operating a DV with such an aggressive preload. Ive been driving around with my stock Bosch unit in for a while now and it feels like ass. The sound of this thing alone makes other drivers nervous.:laugh:



madmax199 said:


> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Max, is that the valve that came out of my car? lol, the paint job looks familiar


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## Retribution (Oct 25, 2010)

Ok if I was just going to buy a DV without any fancy work and all that jazz, what would be a very decent stand alone DV no tweaks to it or anything?


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

Probably the APR R1...good reliable valve....no maintenance with it....simple install and go. I have a barely used/like new one for sale if you are interested. $110 shipped...its in the classifieds...

Many like the FORGE 007 or similar...piston valves....slower to react and require being remove/cleaned and relubed every now and then....


Let me know...I just picked up one of Max's valves and just have the R1 sitting here. Or...get one of his!

Joe


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## Retribution (Oct 25, 2010)

Yeah I'll think about it for sure, I don't plan on keeping my car because it's a auto FWD but it won't hurt for it to sound good


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## Arnolds64 (Nov 13, 2009)

*Got mine - Critique!*

I got mine installed. Oriented it on its side - Push? and it seem like it was fast but not as much power as the Knock off Forge Unit I had on it. I then put in the upright position, Pull? (I always have to fiddle with things, LOL!) In this position may be a little slower recovery but more power it seemed. Slower to recover however is relative in that it is much faster than the Metal Piston Forge type. Still seems to not have as much boost now though. Think it is the computer re-learning maybe? Gonna switch back thinking I may be crazy but it just seems not as much of a power rush on boost? It is however much better than stock. 

Max have you ever tried to do a relief hole in the Forge type to speed it up like the mod you do on the Mitsu DV? Or is it not designed to be able to do this??


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Arnolds64 said:


> I got mine installed. Oriented it on its side - Push? and it seem like it was fast but not as much power as the Knock off Forge Unit I had on it. I then put in the upright position, Pull? (I always have to fiddle with things, LOL!) In this position may be a little slower recovery but more power it seemed. Slower to recover however is relative in that it is much faster than the Metal Piston Forge type. Still seems to not have as much boost now though. Think it is the computer re-learning maybe? Gonna switch back thinking I may be crazy but it just seems not as much of a power rush on boost? It is however much better than stock.
> 
> Max have you ever tried to do a relief hole in the Forge type to speed it up like the mod you do on the Mitsu DV? Or is it not designed to be able to do this??


 Make sure you have a leak free system. You have to be leak free for the valve to function properly. It takes a lot of vac to move that monster DV efficently.


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

Guess what just arrived? Headed out to install! 

Joe


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## Arnolds64 (Nov 13, 2009)

*Leak Free.*



warranty225cpe said:


> Make sure you have a leak free system. You have to be leak free for the valve to function properly. It takes a lot of vac to move that monster DV efficently.


 It is running good but not as good it seems. Crank down all the fittings good. May do a little more. Wonder how to do leak down? 

Did you try to orient yours to see the difference? Madmax says he runs his upright for more power at the track. This is how the stock on is so I thought that would be best for performance and why I tried it after the side or push orientation. Definitely more power this way. Wonder if there are any dyno's out there on any to see if this is true?


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## Arnolds64 (Nov 13, 2009)

*Inlet tube crush maybe?*

With this new Diverter could i be getting stock intake tube crush more an it seems to not be responding as well now??


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

Arnolds64 said:


> I got mine installed. Oriented it on its side - Push? and it seem like it was fast but not as much power as the Knock off Forge Unit I had on it. I then put in the upright position, Pull? (I always have to fiddle with things, LOL!) In this position may be a little slower recovery but more power it seemed. Slower to recover however is relative in that it is much faster than the Metal Piston Forge type. Still seems to not have as much boost now though. Think it is the computer re-learning maybe? Gonna switch back thinking I may be crazy but it just seems not as much of a power rush on boost? It is however much better than stock.
> 
> Max have you ever tried to do a relief hole in the Forge type to speed it up like the mod you do on the Mitsu DV? Or is it not designed to be able to do this??


 John, although the valve will work in both orientation, the push type(pressure going under the diaphragm plate) is the best way because the valve operate both with vacuum and positive pressure once the spring holding capacity is exceeded. The pull orientation( vacuum operated only and pressure coming to the side outlet) has the capacity of holding more boost but does not have the failsafe of pressure also operating the valve if you loose vacuum for example. 

You may have something else going on, the valve hold more boost than you can make without leaking while being twice as fast as what you were running before. You may have some boost leaks like warranty pointed out! let me know if you want me to send you a boost leak tester( free to all Madmax valve owners or anyone that need to test for leaks as long as you return it). Warranty was able to track down some leaks with it :beer:


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

Arnolds64 said:


> It is running good but not as good it seems. Crank down all the fittings good. May do a little more. Wonder how to do leak down?
> 
> Did you try to orient yours to see the difference? Madmax says he runs his upright for more power at the track. This is how the stock on is so I thought that would be best for performance and why I tried it after the side or push orientation. Definitely more power this way. Wonder if there are any dyno's out there on any to see if this is true?


 I don't think anyone cares enough to make dyno runs to only test valves orientations. It's simple, when the pressure is coming to the side outlet instead of under the piston or diaphragm it's harder for the valve to crack open before full boost is reach(givng better boost onset and boost held at higher RPMs if you had a spring that was weak).


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

RabbitGTDguy said:


> Guess what just arrived? Headed out to install!
> 
> Joe


 Let us know how it went for you Joe!


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

madmax199 said:


> Let us know how it went for you Joe!


 had to redirect the relocation line slightly..no big deal...just up over the tip for now... 



















Might try and make adjustments to the fit and fittings themselves after while to "tuck it " down into the bay more...but it works great. I only got to take a short ride tonight while trying to fit everything else into the day...but man...its sweet. Need to get it out in the open or on the highway to really see. 

The noise is doable...going to take some getting used too. Its like a triple sh-sh-sh it seems. Its not annoying though. I'm liking the throttle response now! Didn't make a different in the IAT curve really from where we have it (flat) with the water/meth. However, it did hold the boost longer (K04 won't hold "28psi" to readline anyways). 

will get her out tomorrow and do some more testing and may mess with the controller bias a bit. I'm having a bit of a theory about the injector p/w. 

Max...did you see those last logs I sent you the other day? looked good to me. Thought you might have something to say! still today...90F heat....uphill load....NO timing pull across the board at 6.75!!! 

Joe


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

RabbitGTDguy said:


> had to redirect the relocation line slightly..no big deal...just up over the tip for now...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 I just went and looked at them and they look great, fuel curve is much better than before , especially in the mid range. The car must feel like a different one now with proper fuel and + 6.75 timing and virtually no correction. 

Yeah, partial boost has the sh-sh-sh with the diaphragm rapidely moving with the pressure differential. Full boost, especially in your new monster, will be a single woosh. You are going to love having all your boost all the way to redline! Send me logs when you get some more!:thumbup:


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

Max, 

on yours then...you pulling your full 28psi all the way to redline? I'm seeing the valve hold the boost longer...goes to 28 but then does still taper off as you approach redline... 

maybe I need more spring tension on the wastegate still... 

She does def. feel like a new car. Cooler nights (not tonight) even more so. 

Last 4 logs I've done...NO TIMING pull across any cylinder since making the final fueling adjustments. 

Joe


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

RabbitGTDguy said:


> Max,
> 
> on yours then...you pulling your full 28psi all the way to redline? I'm seeing the valve hold the boost longer...goes to 28 but then does still taper off as you approach redline...
> 
> ...


 The K04 will taper big time as the rpm go up, it just can't flow enough. I get mine to spike 33 psi and hold 25 psi to redline( maybe more now with a full 3" turbo back but have not tested it) with two 5lbs external springs adding some extra wastegate strength. I think a high flow exhaust manifold will allow another psi or so to redline(when I hand ported mine it allowed me to hold an extra psi to redline). A 034 225 high flow mani is in my to do list and should be in yours too since you are the only one I know, besides me, allowing the stock turbo to stretch its legs!


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## MKllllvr28 (Sep 15, 2005)

I had one of the original INA/034 manifolds. I wasn't pushing my k04 as far as you guys, but damn it made a difference on the top end. I would compare it to the first the time I drove the car with a 3 inch down pipe. I put just a tick over 20,000 miles on it and 3 autocross events at 28lbs with no issues, in a year. I wasn't running a full e85 swap. I was running a mix. Hit up Issam and tell him Amico referred you :thumbup:


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

MKllllvr28 said:


> I had one of the original INA/034 manifolds. I wasn't pushing my k04 as far as you guys, but damn it made a difference on the top end. I would compare it to the first the time I drove the car with a 3 inch down pipe. I put just a tick over 20,000 miles on it and 3 autocross events at 28lbs with no issues, in a year. I wasn't running a full e85 swap. I was running a mix. Hit up Issam and tell him Amico referred you :thumbup:


 will have to remember that... 

Max... 

I think I'm going to add an additional spring to the wastegate. Creep is much later...but maybe its still there. Thought that spring I used...singely would be enough. Evidently...its not. I don't have any other leaks in the system. 

Joe


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

RabbitGTDguy said:


> will have to remember that...
> 
> Max...
> 
> ...


 yup, right on the money Joe! 
One 5lbs spring increased the onset spike but wasn't enough to help keep the wastegate closed from mid-range and up. That's where my second spring contraption came along(also a 5lbs but with tighter coils to get the preload tighter and not extend as much as the bigger one). One thing you have to watch with two spring is the initial spike as it may shoot over 30 psi(a simple ball and spring in an angle block did the trick for me). You are getting really close to a full clone of my setup, all you need to do now is take the plunge to E85(more boost, more timing, leaner AFR safely and a lot more power but you need rods to handle the torque).


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## Arnolds64 (Nov 13, 2009)

*Yes to the Leak Tester.*



madmax199 said:


> John, although the valve will work in both orientation, the push type(pressure going under the diaphragm plate) is the best way because the valve operate both with vacuum and positive pressure once the spring holding capacity is exceeded. The pull orientation( vacuum operated only and pressure coming to the side outlet) has the capacity of holding more boost but does not have the failsafe of pressure also operating the valve if you loose vacuum for example.
> 
> You may have something else going on, the valve hold more boost than you can make without leaking while being twice as fast as what you were running before. You may have some boost leaks like warranty pointed out! let me know if you want me to send you a boost leak tester( free to all Madmax valve owners or anyone that need to test for leaks as long as you return it). Warranty was able to track down some leaks with it :beer:


 That would be great. Send that sucker (Or shall I say blower? LOL!) to me. I will test it as soon as i get it and get it back to you. This is what I love about becoming part of the car club. In essence that what we do on these forums. The Air Cooled VW community is like this. Really in to their cars and willing to help. I think I put this car in my sig? I am a proud owner for Stroked 64 Bug.  
Big Cam, Heads Carbs. Loud and obnoxious. Love it. Yeah I can't leave well enough alone. I have been a gearhead ever since I was a kid drawing cars. Now I am almost 55 and will never stop. 

Yeah I agree that the push orientation is faster and like it but I like power too. So hopefully if I find a leak it will help with the power too. Does the K&N or open intake help more so with the increase in boost? I have a drop in now. I would think it would magnify the need for it like an TIP inlet hose? Looking at the APR TIP hose now. I like the idea of he wire reinforcement in it. Do you like it? On youtube a Samco was shown collapsing as well as the stocker. Going from a modded Mustang GT it is underwhelming driving the TT. But the TT is a sweet daily. The Mustang was a little much with 4.10 gears. Outran a Sube STi with it though. MPG sucked.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

madmax199 said:


> You may have something else going on, the valve hold more boost than you can make without leaking while being twice as fast as what you were running before. You may have some boost leaks like warranty pointed out! let me know if you want me to send you a boost leak tester( free to all Madmax valve owners or anyone that need to test for leaks as long as you return it). Warranty was able to track down some leaks with it :beer:


 For sure! I found 5 leaks. When we figured out that leaks were causing my issues, I switched to my stock Bosch DV. I fixed my leaks put the evo dv back on. The car felt better than it ever has! I really didn't want to take it off. But I had to send it back because my evo dv had a little extra preload and was throwing I dv code. Dv code or not, it was amazing. That being said, my poor little Bosch has been getting a beating. It's honking like a duck and can't handle hard pulls. As I type, I'm sitting on the couch with the dog. Waiting for my valve to be delivered by UPS. I wish they would hurry up..:facepalm:


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

madmax199 said:


> yup, right on the money Joe!
> One 5lbs spring increased the onset spike but wasn't enough to help keep the wastegate closed from mid-range and up. That's where my second spring contraption came along(also a 5lbs but with tighter coils to get the preload tighter and not extend as much as the bigger one). One thing you have to watch with two spring is the initial spike as it may shoot over 30 psi(a simple ball and spring in an angle block did the trick for me). You are getting really close to a full clone of my setup, all you need to do now is take the plunge to E85(more boost, more timing, leaner AFR safely and a lot more power but you need rods to handle the torque).


 Added the other duplicate of the first spring I made today to the original one...found that boost again and feeling the same taper that you feel. I can feel the power surge and then fall off with the taper. A bit weird at times...but I had to dial the BM back another 3/4 turn as it was pushing close to 30psi again. I'm going to dial in 28psi as we discussed and leave it there. 

On another note...with adding the spring, I started to pull a bit of timing again (only slight...under 4 deg...most 2.3...nothing on cyl 4 of course)...so I'm upping the fuel under load to 140% and leaving the primary at the 9.XXX% that we had it at and will see what the AFR's look like tomorrow after I change the fuel filter for our trip to the OBX here on Friday...then...not going to mess with it anymore for a little while so that we can do the trip! 

That said...did play with the controller bias tonight. We were right on the money as you said with keeping the controller biased towards P/W vs. boost... I went to the BOOST only and timing was being pulled quite madly. 8+ in one area. DIDN't STAY with that long...nasty. It does so follow the boost curve...and the lag which really hurt it and it didn't feel as strong at all. "Surgy" if anything. Thinking that if I don't stay at the "90/10" biased more towards P/W...I might just keep it on P/W altogether because of the quicker spool nature of the K04 vs. bigger turbos, etc. Much faster reacting than the boost side of the controller. 

Anyways...wife heard the valve in the car tonight for the first time...and was like "what the hell is that noise? What is broken?". Explained it...  and said the R1 isn't going back in  

Joe


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

On the E85...love the idea...want to do it. However, the nearest station I have seen to my location is nearly 1hr-1.5hr away! As it catches on...I'm looking forward to it. Just not economically feasible (unless you know a better "E85 finder" than I use...mapquest gas and NYS E85 initiative). 

Rods and a few other mods are already on tap for the next t belt change ...need to drive the car some to get it to the change interval though as I'm only at 92k  

Joe


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

Joe, as long as the wife agrees to let you run the valve then we're good! 

That sucks that your area doesn't have corn juice at the pumps, here in long island I have plenty of e85 stations(citgos, gulfs and a hand full of mom and pop stations). 

On the meth subject, use as much PW vs boost ratio like I said. Much better control and a spray pattern that does not follow boost lag, spikes and taper. I'd still keep a marginal ratio of boost though, just in case the PW electronics stop functioning for some reason(never know). Let us know how you like having a dv that holds all your precious boost, when you get to drive it more and enjoy your trip!


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

I guess my house was the UPS guys last stop last night. At around 7:00 it hit my hands and I started to install. I ended up putting it in with the wrong orientation, and I had a leak at the tip connection of the reloc. hose. Thus morning I got it back together the right way and clamped down on my leak pretty good. The car runs GREAT even though it's hot as F U C K here in Florida. Can't wait to drive this with some cooler weather. Maybe it's time for H2o&Meth... 

On a side note, having a little trouble getting my boost machine dialed in. The LiquidTT doesn't show any changes in boost readings when I adjust the BM.


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## Malant (Aug 30, 2004)

madmax199 said:


> Joe, as long as the wife agrees to let you run the valve then we're good!
> 
> That sucks that your area doesn't have corn juice at the pumps, here in long island I have plenty of e85 stations(citgos, gulfs and a hand full of mom and pop stations).
> 
> On the meth subject, use as much PW vs boost ratio like I said. Much better control and a spray pattern that does not follow boost lag, spikes and taper. I'd still keep a marginal ratio of boost though, just in case the PW electronics stop functioning for some reason(never know). Let us know how you like having a dv that holds all your precious boost, when you get to drive it more and enjoy your trip!


 I have the stage III controller hooked up to my car however I am not spraying yet as I am waiting to install my FMIC setup to have a bung welded in, but I would also suggest doing more PW compared to Boost as far as the bias of the controller. I haven't been able to take logs but just by comparing the reading of the controller to my digital boost gauge it is slow responding and not as accurate, I will be holding at 22psi on my electronic however the display on the controller is only saying 17.8ish, same line goes to both my controller and my gauge. 

What are you running your bias at? 

Cant wait to crank the boost up on mine when I get my FMIC and WM setup setup and see this valve hold some real PSI


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## SteveCJr (Aug 3, 2008)

Sent a PM your way Max. Anxiously waiting for reply


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

SteveCJr said:


> Sent a PM your way Max. Anxiously waiting for reply


 PM replied!


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

mine is set at a 90 PW/ 10 Boost setting at the moment. Current switched over to P/W only though... 

lol...she just thought the valve sounded funny Max. Especially the honk it makes at high boost under fast gear changes. 

I pressure tested my system today and actually did find a few leaks after the fact. One in the stupid PCV system that I just rebuilt using OEM parts (fixed now with brass...won't leak again) and oddly enough...at the Boost Machine (which isn't good). I took it apart and resealed all the joints. Had to dial it down again as well once the psi leaks were fixed. Sitting at only 3 turns right now and still pulling 28.2psi at max most the time...major taper and then settle. 

Your right though...don't like those initial spikes 29.8 currently...makes driveability a bit weird. 
Wonder if I can use the Boost Machine's onset valve to help with things there...though...if its still leaking I may replace it with a normal boost controller. 

Joe


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

RabbitGTDguy said:


> mine is set at a 90 PW/ 10 Boost setting at the moment. Current switched over to P/W only though...
> 
> lol...she just thought the valve sounded funny Max. Especially the honk it makes at high boost under fast gear changes.
> 
> ...


 The spikes from our infamous twin external spring combos may not be able to tamed by the BM. It's a great controler but it has a range it can effectively control. In your extreme setup, you may need a ball and spring controller with a spring that work in the 25-35 psi range. In my case I use two home made boost controllers, one for onset and one for spikes control :beer:.


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## StateSideS3 (Apr 13, 2007)

saw u autox today, car look and sounded great 
nice taking 1st place


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## TTurbo12 (Jun 28, 2011)

1.8tipgls said:


> saw u autox today, car look and sounded great
> nice taking 1st place


 ^ +1 to that. 

also, mailbox is full max:laugh:


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## Rmon (Mar 6, 2001)

PM sent...


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

1.8tipgls said:


> saw u autox today, car look and sounded great
> nice taking 1st place


Thanks! :beer:


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

TTurbo12 said:


> ^ +1 to that.
> 
> also, mailbox is full max:laugh:


Just cleaned it, I can receive PM now ! I'm going home tonight (haven't been all weekend) I'm expecting to have a package for you and will PM you when I confirm!


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

Rmon said:


> PM sent...


Replied !


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

1.8tipgls said:


> saw u autox today, car look and sounded great
> nice taking 1st place





TTurbo12 said:


> ^ +1 to that.
> 
> also, mailbox is full max:laugh:





Rmon said:


> PM sent...


Lol, wish I would have been there to watch you run. I'll bet you got a lot of converts to the MadMax DV. I can't imagine hearing it on the track being my first audible intro to the DV. Your PMs are gonna be full for a while:thumbup:

Congrats on first place.


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## Arnolds64 (Nov 13, 2009)

*Got it together and it is great now.*

Seemed to not be getting the boost all the way but I think the plastic reducer or Swage Nipples were not tight enough and had some leaks. I bought some metal Swage Nipples that are used in Plumbing. Here is what they look like. Copy an Paste in your browser. Hope this works - Kinda Huge ? 

file:///Users/johnarnold/Desktop/NPT%20thread%20Swage%20Nipple%20Sales,%20Buy%20NPT%20thread%20Swage%20Nipple%20Products%20from%20alibaba.com.webarchive

This thing is light speed versus the Forge ebay Knock off I had on it. The Forge type was better than stock in power versus the stocker when I got my APR tune but slow to re boost at shift. Very little drop now. Not N/A quick but for the non car geek they would never know. I think my computer is learning it too as it seems to be running better after a day or so too. Could this be? Great investment and definite seat of the pants gain in response and I think getting the most out of my tune. 

Do you guys think that a cone open air intake will now be a good thing to buy or just stick to my K&N panel? Anyone done this after the fact like me and felt a diff? 

Next - Gotta do the timing belt. Got the lightened stock size ECS crank pulley and the ECS kit. Will critique when done. Then Gut the cats! Live in KC - No sniff test.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

Arnolds64 said:


> Do you guys think that a cone open air intake will now be a good thing to buy or just stick to my K&N panel? Anyone done this after the fact like me and felt a diff?
> 
> Next - Gotta do the timing belt. Got the lightened stock size ECS crank pulley and the ECS kit. Will critique when done. Then Gut the cats! Live in KC - No sniff test.


An intake is always a good thing over the restrictive factory air box, even with a panel filter! Do it right the first time and go for the 42 Draft Designs intake system (there's a thread I started about it floating around).

You are the third person that had issues with the plastic couplers with high heat. I am going to start 
looking into metal ones now, especially for those that don't have a cold side relocation.

BTW, the tester is in the mail to you (there was a slight delay because I was waiting for the regulator that my neighbor had borrowed) :beer:


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## TTurbo12 (Jun 28, 2011)

also having problems with the adapters. hoses seem to blow off every now and then no matter how tight i crank them. adapter coming from the hose connected to the turbo outlet pipe is becoming warped on the 1" side  probably because the clamp is tight as hell plus the heat. getting a cold side dv relocation together. I'm hoping that it will help with the heat problem. but I'm still gonna need some new couplings. I'm also thinking plumbing adapters are the way to go lol


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

These Forge adapters and joiners should help the size and blow off issues..


PRODUCT NAME QTY PRICE 

FMHC3040 - 30 - 40mm Stainless Steel hose Clamp 2 $2.40 
FMHJ25- 25mm O/D Alloy Hose Joiner 2 $10.41 
FMS32-25_Black SHose- 32-25mm Straight Reducer Silicone Hose 2 $15.00


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## TTurbo12 (Jun 28, 2011)

thanks warranty. those should do the trick, got em ordered :thumbup: 
im sure the metal will be a lot more rigid than the plastic adapters. hoses should stay attached too. Just odered a pressure test kit too, its weird I'm actually hoping I have some leaks so I can fix them in hopes that it will increase power haha


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

TTurbo12 said:


> thanks warranty. those should do the trick, got em ordered :thumbup:
> im sure the metal will be a lot more rigid than the plastic adapters. hoses should stay attached too. Just odered a pressure test kit too, its weird I'm actually hoping I have some leaks so I can fix them in hopes that it will increase power haha


no problem. I almost guarantee you have at least 1 leak. I thought my system was leak free... I had *5* leaks


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## SteveCJr (Aug 3, 2008)

My car will be in the shop tomorrow getting some pretty obvious leaks taken care of, just hope no more pop up once I get this installed. If it ever shows up.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

SteveCJr said:


> My car will be in the shop tomorrow getting some pretty obvious leaks taken care of, just hope no more pop up once I get this installed. If it ever shows up.


Yours is in the mail, you should see it tomorrow or the day after :beer:!
Since you will be holding more boost than usual with the valve, it has a tendency to highlight existing leaks or problems. You won't have any issue if all your leaks are fixed and the system in in good operating condition!


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## TTurbo12 (Jun 28, 2011)

warranty225cpe said:


> no problem. I almost guarantee you have at least 1 leak. I thought my system was leak free... I had *5* leaks


five leaks? damn. probably felt insanely different after you got them fixed. Worries me a bit considering your car is five years newer..... and probably has considerably less miles.

Love the new valve btw Max  holds boost really well. I'm sure it will stand out even more after I get my possible leaks fixed and get the new adapters. Thanks again, completely channges the feel when shifting under hard acceleration.


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## Arnolds64 (Nov 13, 2009)

*Leak Tester, we will see tonight.*

I am testing my system tonight as Mad Max was gracious and sent me the tester. This in itself is a reason to buy his diverter. I just got my car buttoned up yesterday doing a DIY T-Belt, Water Pump, Tensioner with a lightened crank pulley from ECS. I can tell you I probably fix two leaks already noticing the rubber pressure lines coming from the Charge would turn and almost pulled the large one off with out bending the stock clamp. Put on screw down clamps at replacement. I think everyone should be suspect of any of those crimp on clamps anywhere in the system. I think I did get a little hp boost from the lightened pulley. Seems to boost quicker and rev from the low r's to Midrange better. 

Get the metal Swage pipes like I mentioned. I tell you this helped a lot. Any plumbing supple outfit or good hardware store will have them. Like 9.00 for both.


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## Arnolds64 (Nov 13, 2009)

*LEAK!!*



Arnolds64 said:


> I am testing my system tonight as Mad Max was gracious and sent me the tester. This in itself is a reason to buy his diverter. I just got my car buttoned up yesterday doing a DIY T-Belt, Water Pump, Tensioner with a lightened crank pulley from ECS. I can tell you I probably fix two leaks already noticing the rubber pressure lines coming from the Charge would turn and almost pulled the large one off with out bending the stock clamp. Put on screw down clamps at replacement. I think everyone should be suspect of any of those crimp on clamps anywhere in the system. I think I did get a little hp boost from the lightened pulley. Seems to boost quicker and rev from the low r's to Midrange better.
> 
> Get the metal Swage pipes like I mentioned. I tell you this helped a lot. Any plumbing supply outfit or good hardware store will have them. Like 9.00 for both.


UPDATE. Shiot! As soon as I hooked it up, big air. May have made it worse though. The vacuum hose below the manifold has a large crack before the check valve. Dang! Any DIY's on how to fix that one? 123.00 for the whole piece. I only need to fix the one tube. Thinking about getting some 1/4 or what matches the existing one in a metal hardline so on that end it will clamp on the rubber existing female end and get some more hose for the other end of the hardline that it would clamp to it also. Then that hose will clamp to the Check valve?


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

You can frankenstien some **** together. Buying new OEM hoses is a waste of time and money.


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

Going to have to get the metal plumbing adaptors as well I think or the nice FORGE pieces...


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## Arnolds64 (Nov 13, 2009)

*Frankensteining it.*

Going with some new tubing first. The plastic that makes the turn by the Charge pipe is pretty rigid enough support some rubber tubing clamped to it i think and will run it to the check valve. Gonna be fun trying to get a clamp on the one under the manny. I may pull the whole shooting match out and do it on a bench.

Here is the item link at ECS - http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-TT_MKI-Quattro-225HP/Engine/View_All/ES9685/

The tube is cracked where it is pressed on the left side of the Check Valve.

Cars still runs good and better than before but would imagine this could be a problem. Going to try to fix this tonight after work so I can hook up the tester again. I am thinking that since this was so large then it would not pressure up enough to see if others are there? I will get it back to you Max as soon as I get this done.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

Arnolds64 said:


> Going with some new tubing first. The plastic that makes the turn by the Charge pipe is pretty rigid enough support some rubber tubing clamped to it i think and will run it to the check valve. Gonna be fun trying to get a clamp on the one under the manny. I may pull the whole shooting match out and do it on a bench.
> 
> Here is the item link at ECS - http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-TT_MKI-Quattro-225HP/Engine/View_All/ES9685/
> 
> ...


I got the tester back in the mail John :beer:, I am guessing you got the system nice and sealed!


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

I highly suggest that anyone who does the DV relocation, get rid of the forge hose with the metal coil in it. Its a major pain in the ass to get a clamp on tight without distorting the hose. I broke down yesterday and hit up home depot. Also, the plastic elbows that come with the Forge kit get warped when you crank down on the clamps. I went with a brass elbow coming out of the TIP, then to the TB intercooler hose. Turns out I had more leaks than I thought.


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

Already have a Forge DV relocation here...but thought I'd show you guys what I am doing with mine. I need to move my WMI post intercooler nozzle up past the DV relocation as I'm getting a bit of fluid up through the DV.

I've wanted to make the MadMax valve have a bit of a better "fit and finish" in the bay...and cut down on the number of clamps which I see as a potential problem if your not mindful of them. 

So...since I had to do the above...placed an order through siliconeintakes last night...

I'll be using two of these on the MadMax valve 










Silicone Reducer, 1.25" to 1.0" in Black
P/N [SIL000127] x2

This will replace the hose that is sent with the kit and elminate one set of clamps. 

From there...it'll just be using straight 1" barb fittings...

Joe


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

RabbitGTDguy said:


> Already have a Forge DV relocation here...but thought I'd show you guys what I am doing with mine. I need to move my WMI post intercooler nozzle up past the DV relocation as I'm getting a bit of fluid up through the DV.
> I've wanted to make the MadMax valve have a bit of a better "fit and finish" in the bay...and cut down on the number of clamps which I see as a potential problem if your not mindful of them.
> So...since I had to do the above...placed an order through siliconeintakes last night...
> I'll be using two of these on the MadMax valve
> ...


Thanks Joe,
I just broke down and bought those. $16 isnt bad at all for those. I was going to order the ones from forge, but siliconeintakes.com was much cheaper:thumbup::beer:


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

No problem...figured since I was having to order a new coupling for the WMI that I might as well clean up the MadMax install and buy a bit more silcone vac hose as well (good stuff). The quality of their hoses are excellent as well. I have used them for the last two custom intercooler setups I have done and the quality has always been on par or just as good as my Forge hoses, etc. Not cheap eBay stuff...plus they had the perfect size reducer for our needs. Just didn't have the straight 1pm barbs but that is easily solved with a trip to Lowes or another plumbing store for the brass version.

Less clamps =less potential for leaks IMHO

AND

A cleaner look.

Joe


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

RabbitGTDguy said:


> Less clamps =less potential for leaks IMHO
> Joe


AKA the quest for the "holy Grail".:laugh:


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## StateSideS3 (Apr 13, 2007)

RabbitGTDguy said:


> No problem...figured since I was having to order a new coupling for the WMI that I might as well clean up the MadMax install and buy a bit more silcone vac hose as well (good stuff). The quality of their hoses are excellent as well. I have used them for the last two custom intercooler setups I have done and the quality has always been on par or just as good as my Forge hoses, etc. Not cheap eBay stuff...plus they had the perfect size reducer for our needs. Just didn't have the straight 1pm barbs but that is easily solved with a trip to Lowes or another plumbing store for the brass version.
> 
> Less clamps =less potential for leaks IMHO
> 
> ...


can u post up some pics when ur all set and done :beer:


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

sure


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## 320hpBlackTT (Dec 25, 2008)

So I currently have the forge 007 and I want something loud ....like really loud haha and Idk Wtf to go with ...any suggestions


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

320hpBlackTT said:


> So I currently have the forge 007 and I want something loud ....like really loud haha and Idk Wtf to go with ...any suggestions


Uhh.. Have you read this thread..? lol


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## 320hpBlackTT (Dec 25, 2008)

warranty225cpe said:


> Uhh.. Have you read this thread..? lol


My tapatalk is all screwed up I can see the first mini page and the last 5 comments ......so unfortunately I'm not able too


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

I have made the decision to start sending the Madmax valve with the silicone reducers posted above with brass couplers. There would need to be a price adjustment and that's what always tried to avoid(I like cheap and effective) but it would make the whole kit bullet proof even in the hottest environment. I have to give credit to John at 42 DD, RabbitGTDguy and warranty225cpe for this one since they presented the concern and did the leg work on the solution, I tried finding metal barb reducers from 1.25- 1" that didn't cost a fortune but that didn't happen! :beer::beer::beer:


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## 320hpBlackTT (Dec 25, 2008)

madmax199 said:


> I have made the decision to start sending the Madmax valve with the silicone reducers posted above with brass couplers. There would need to be a price adjustment and that's what always tried to avoid(I like cheap and effective) but it would make the whole kit bullet proof even in the hottest environment. I have to give credit to John at 42 DD, RabbitGTDguy and warranty225cpe for this one since they presented the concern and did the leg work on the solution, I tried finding metal barb reducers from 1.25- 1" that didn't cost a fortune but that didn't happen! :beer::beer::beer:


Any videos of it in action?


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

My video is the only one I know of so far..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eegS0EObSIE


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

320hpBlackTT said:


> So I currently have the forge 007 and I want something loud ....like really loud haha and Idk Wtf to go with ...any suggestions


You are the perfect candidate for a Madmax valve because the volume of air it's bypassing makes it louder than some atmospheric venting valves, especially if you have an open cone filter. A couple pages back we had a member that loved his valve's performance but thought it was "too loud" and wanted to trade it, but later changed his mind about letting the valve go!
Shoot me a PM when you get a chance, I'll hook you up (I haven't forgoten the big favor you did for me)


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## 320hpBlackTT (Dec 25, 2008)

I am liking it quite a bit .....somehow my forge is louder than any other I've seen ......don't laugh but I really want something that sounds like it flutters when it goes.....something like how it sounds in the begining of the video ......but yeah anyway haha what ya charging max


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

320hpBlackTT said:


> I am liking it quite a bit .....somehow my forge is louder than any other I've seen ......don't laugh but I really want something that sounds like it flutters when it goes.....something like how it sounds in the begining of the video ......but yeah anyway haha what ya charging max


If your a fan of the "flutter", your in the right place. This valve is the cats-ass.:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

warranty225cpe said:


> My video is the only one I know of so far..
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eegS0EObSIE


There is this one also (post #95 on page 3):


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

320hpBlackTT said:


> I am liking it quite a bit .....somehow my forge is louder than any other I've seen ......don't laugh but I really want something that sounds like it flutters when it goes.....something like how it sounds in the begining of the video ......but yeah anyway haha what ya charging max


I can't post pricing per forum rules as I'm not a vendor but shoot me a PM for more details ( I just made sure the mailbox is not full )


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## StateSideS3 (Apr 13, 2007)

this should solve my issue that i keep blowing off one of the hoses going to the plastic couplers :beer:


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

1.8tipgls said:


> this should solve my issue that i keep blowing off one of the hoses going to the plastic couplers :beer:


Yeah, mine leak but no blow off. I accidentally crushed the plastic ends on the reducer, in an attempt to get that long Forge relocation hose to seal. Once I get these, there will be NO plastic in my dv relocation:thumbup:


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

That sounds like a good idea Max. I think it will make the setup much more bulletproof and clean looking. it will also eliminate one sealing surface that could potentially leak and the metal couplers will def tighten stuff up. 

My couplers shipped out today so I am going to say that I should receive them Weds or Thurs this week. So...by Friday I can have pics up, showing it completely installed with the new couplers, etc (as I am headed to a show on Sunday). In the meantime I will be making a few refinements to my WMI system while I wait. 

Tired of tKing the bumper off this car!!!!

Joe


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

RabbitGTDguy said:


> That sounds like a good idea Max. I think it will make the setup much more bulletproof and clean looking. it will also eliminate one sealing surface that could potentially leak and the metal couplers will def tighten stuff up.
> 
> My couplers shipped out today so I am going to say that I should receive them Weds or Thurs this week. So...by Friday I can have pics up, showing it completely installed with the new couplers, etc (as I am headed to a show on Sunday). In the meantime I will be making a few refinements to my WMI system while I wait.
> 
> ...


Thanks Joe, the Madmax valve is not mine anymore! Something that was intended to be a one off wild creation for my car, but you guys showed interest and provided all the inputs that make it something appealing to all today. Thanks guys :beer:!


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

LOL...still your idea  

I got as far as I could day without the new couplers. bumper off (tired of doing that), removed nozzle and relocated post DV...modified DV relocation hose to fit better, cleaned grounds (for fun) under the battery tray, and got everything ready for when the new couplers arrive. 

Did you see my last few PM's Max? 

Joe


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

RabbitGTDguy said:


> LOL...still your idea
> 
> I got as far as I could day without the new couplers. bumper off (tired of doing that), removed nozzle and relocated post DV...modified DV relocation hose to fit better, cleaned grounds (for fun) under the battery tray, and got everything ready for when the new couplers arrive.
> 
> ...


No, but I get flooded with them, I will check and respond shortly!


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## MKllllvr28 (Sep 15, 2005)

I'm just popping in to add my two cents.:laugh:

This valve is awesome. I'm running wastegate pressure at 17 lbs on my s256 pag kit. Re-spool is amazing. This valve opens and closes faster than I can shift. Thanks for bringing this to light Max!:thumbup::thumbup:


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

Sneak preview...working on finishing a few things on the intercooler and getting the bumper on, fitted as well as this...














































more to come...


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

My couplers are sitting in front of my door at home. Ill get some pics up tomorrow when I can get them on. I just got a toolbox from my girl for my birthday, so ive been busy with getting all my s h i t organized. Its awesome to clean out all your bags of hardware and tools. lol, helps with the ocd:screwy:


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## StateSideS3 (Apr 13, 2007)

RabbitGTDguy said:


> Sneak preview...working on finishing a few things on the intercooler and getting the bumper on, fitted as well as this...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


nicee :beer:
definitely finishes this off nicely


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

and...all finished...






































install went really quite smooth. I had the front end of the car off, etc. to relocate my WAI primary nozzle...so I had a bit more time invested. Was nice...got a few other things done that I wanted to while I waited for the couplers...

So...the silver barb connectors...info on them
mine are straight 1" double barb couplers. I didn't get them at Home Depot...was going to go to Lowes but ended up going to a "well known" by me local mom/pop style hardware store that has an awesome hardware/nuts/bolts selection that I remembered and thought I'd give them a shot first....

Sure enough...they had them there in two forms....these (which were about 3.00 a piece) or brass ones... (9.00 a piece). I chose these. 

If you can't find them at the big box stores I suggest a "smaller" more "plumbing" focused store. ACE, TrueValue, etc. 

I took 3 barbs off each of mine because I thought they were TOO long to start with. Use a pipe cutter I use for cutting mtb/road bike forks, etc. Worked perfectly...cleaned the edges with the Dremel. 

Let me tell you...the silicone couples on the DV end...fit TIGHT...I held the DV in my vise and then fitted them. Not "stretched" tight...but very snug. Need something or someone to hold the valve.

Probably could have gone with the next 1/4" larger...but these are a nice tight fit that aren't going to blow off...no chance. 

I retained the Forge wire/flex hose in my setup...I don't mind it and I haven't had problems getting the clamps I have to "clamp down" and have a good hold. I do an extra 1/2 turn typically at the end with a 1/4 ratchet w/ 7mm socket. 

The final product looks like a valve you bought of the market and installed. The couplers allow for a near seamless fit and the connections are greatly improved. No boost will be leaking here. 


Joe


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

RabbitGTDguy said:


> install went really quite smooth. I had the front end of the car off, etc. to relocate my WAI primary nozzle...so I had a bit more time invested. Was nice...got a few other things done that I wanted to while I waited for the couplers...
> 
> So...the silver barb connectors...info on them
> mine are straight 1" double barb couplers. I didn't get them at Home Depot...was going to go to Lowes but ended up going to a "well known" by me local mom/pop style hardware store that has an awesome hardware/nuts/bolts selection that I remembered and thought I'd give them a shot first....
> ...


Looks good Joe:thumbup: Where did you get that heat shroud over your coil packs?


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

warranty225cpe said:


> Looks good Joe:thumbup: Where did you get that heat shroud over your coil packs?


034... It's their V2 one (v1 pales in comparison quality wise) ...had them powdercoat it as well. Fits nicely, cleans up the bay and supposedly directs cooler air over the coils.

Joe


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

RabbitGTDguy said:


> and...all finished...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looks great Joe, thanks for posting the pics :beer:. 
*The picture above illustrates how all Madmax valves are going to ship from now on!*


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## SteveCJr (Aug 3, 2008)

I guess I ordered mine a little too soon, doh lol

Free bump


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## SteveCJr (Aug 3, 2008)

RabbitGTDguy said:


> Probably could have gone with the next 1/4" larger...but these are a nice tight fit that aren't going to blow off...no chance.


Is it really that tight? They do have a 1.375" to 1" reducer, which is 1/8" larger. Think it's worth a shot or should I just stick with the 1.25" to 1"?


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

SteveCJr said:


> I guess I ordered mine a little too soon, doh lol
> 
> Free bump


Dont worry dude, Ive been on a misson to get rid of all my leaks once and for all. your prformance will suffer more when you have leaks and the EVO DV installed. Got all my new adapters on today and pressure tested. Couldnt find anything but it still feels like its got a boost leak..:banghead:


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## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

pm sent:thumbup:


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

They are tight but it doesn't bother me...just a more snug fit.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Ive got one more vac leak to seal up on my TIP, then Ill know for sure how much this valve really rocks. Went to pressurize the system today, and could hear a hiss down by the TIP/turbo flange connection. Tomorrow I pull the strut brace and see if I can pin point the leak. Then Ill probably find another leak..:banghead:


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## SteveCJr (Aug 3, 2008)

So I went ahead and installed the valve last week and I'm not very pleased with it yet. First, it's a very tight fit in the oem spot. I had to trim one of my reducers a good 1/2" to get it to almost fit under the strut brace. Which I had to take off to get the valve to sit in there right. Also had to trim the oem hose coming from the charge pipe in attempt to make it look cleaner. Other than that it was a fairly simple install. But now my engine cover does not fit in place anymore. /shrug

Now my big problem I now have is I believe the valve is not actuating. I've got major compressor surge anytime I lift off the throttle. Even when I'm not under boost. Now I do have reason to believe that there still is a boost leak somewhere and I have yet to find it. But, My concern is more with the vacuum that should be opening the valve when the throttle is closed. According to my gauge I have plenty of vacuum, 20 when at idel and about 23 when rolling. So I'm not sure if I just need a better source or if there is something wrong with the value. Maybe the spring in the valve got compressed too much? I know with my Splitter valve I could push the piston with my thumb. This one I can not. Is there a better source to pull the vaccum from than the oem spot?

Something definitively doesn't seem right here. Quick video of the sound. Starts at 7 seconds in





Comparison between the two









Installed


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Yeah, the valve is BIG. But it more than makes up for it in performance. Its not even worth running the Evo DV when you have leaks. It will throw codes and run like crap. you MUST have a leak free system to get the best out of that valve. Also, I highly suggest doing the DV relocation. That will fix your clearence issues with the strut bar.


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## SteveCJr (Aug 3, 2008)

My major concern is with the surge and the potential damage it could do to the turbo. The video you posted a few pages back. I could here a little surge but mostly the dump. I'm not getting any dump at all.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

SteveCJr said:


> My major concern is with the surge and the potential damage it could do to the turbo. The video you posted a few pages back. I could here a little surge but mostly the dump. I'm not getting any dump at all.


Yeah, the surge you heard was because of all of my leaks. Its much smoother now, but I cant stress enough the importance of having a leak free system.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

I'm not sure if a DV operation is completly understood here and will make an attempt to explain. Any *OEM type dv *when mounted in "push style" like you have it, works by combining two things:

1) Manifold negative pressure under atmospheric (Aka vacuum) pulling the diaphragm open 

2) Rising boost pressure ( the charge piping is still under pressure even when you see vacuum) pushing under the valve diaphragm plate to open it.

To operate the valve properly you need both vacuum and loaded boost pressure (#1 and #2). Sitting at idle, the motor is not under enough load to spin the turbo hard enough to create sufficient positive pressure. So in your video, you are relying *only on vacuum to operate the valve*, any leak in the system (like warranty pointed out) also makes that even more difficult. 

Normally you don't even want or need a valve to be able to open at idle (a sign that the spring used in the valve is too weak in the performance world). You want the valve to operate when positive pressure is considerably building up in the charge system because the TB plate is slightly or fully closed, that's when substantial pressure waves can make their way back to the turbo, nearly stalling it. Now if you weren't getting full bypass while shifting or with on/off throttle under load, I'd be alarmed but at this point there is no red flags but just your concern with the different noise at idle. 

How is your operation under loaded conditions?
Is your system totally leak free?

I understand your concerns with the fit but assume that you and anyone else realise that we are retrofitting a modified "allien" valve into our system. We need to somehow transition from 1"-1.25" and that requires slightly cutting the oem rubber hose for a proper fit. BTW your install is probably the best I've seen in OEM location :thumbup:


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## corradojohnt (Sep 16, 2007)

I got mine to fit (IMO) "satisfactorily" in the stock location. 

Pics for clicks......










After finally getting the time to install this valve and fab my custom hoses, I am really happy with the results. The response is instant and the car feels like it has a little more torque; results of the butt dyno are not guaranteed! :laugh:


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## SteveCJr (Aug 3, 2008)

madmax199 said:


> How is your operation under loaded conditions?
> Is your system totally leak free?


It's exactly the same under load. At 19+ pounds of boost the compressor still flutters till I step on the throttle again and the TB opens. Transitions from gear to gear are slow and sluggish to get back up.I still do believe there is(are) leak(s) somewhere and i'm having trouble locating them with your tester. Not much time with work and it's been raining like crazy in New England. After spending $800 for new hoses the first time around, I've been hesitant to go back without knowing exactly where it's coming from.

Signs of leaking: Currently I spike to 20psi and it quickly drops to 15psi. Sometimes it doesn't even make it to 15psi. Also when I start the car cold after it's been sitting for at least 5 hours, I'll only have half my normal vacuum and the car idles roughly 500rpm higher than normal. Then the sai shuts off and everything goes back to normal. Happened to me a while back and it was fixed when a leak was repaired. Also after that leak was repaired I was spiking to 23psi and holding 20psi in every gear.

I guess I'll have to make a video of it under load if that might help


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## SteveCJr (Aug 3, 2008)

corradojohnt said:


> I got mine to fit (IMO) ...
> 
> After finally getting the time to install this valve and fab my custom hoses


Do you have any more pictures of what you used to connect the dv to the tip? I didn't want to start trimming my tip back so I took off all I could out of my reducer. If I could get it another 1/2" lower it would fit nice and snug under the bar.


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## corradojohnt (Sep 16, 2007)

SteveCJr said:


> Do you have any more pictures of what you used to connect the dv to the tip? I didn't want to start trimming my tip back so I took off all I could out of my reducer. If I could get it another 1/2" lower it would fit nice and snug under the bar.


I don't have a picture but here is a description of what I did:
-----------------
*Parts used for TIP to DV connection*


 Silicon hose reducer (1.25'' - 1'') at approx. 4'' in length
 1'' Aluminum hose joiner - 2'' in length


I trimmed ~0.75'' off the 1.25'' ID section of the Si hose reducer - needed only 1'' for the coupler on the DV

I trimmed ~1.0'' off the 1.0'' ID section of the Si hose reducer - needed only 1'' for the Aluminum hose joiner

I hope this helps :thumbup:


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## SteveCJr (Aug 3, 2008)

madmax199 said:


> To operate the valve properly you need both vacuum and loaded boost pressure
> 
> Normally you don't even want or need a valve to be able to open at idle (a sign that the spring used in the valve is too weak in the performance world).


What about part throttle when your not producing your full boost? You wont have enough to open it with such a strong valve.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

SteveCJr said:


> What about part throttle when your not producing your full boost? You wont have enough to open it with such a strong valve.


Let's say at part throttle the engine is generating just enough load to spin the turbo to make 7 psi of positive pressure. Now say you decide to let off the throttle or shift gears, you have 7 psi of positive pressure under the diaphragm plate pushing it open + whatever vacuum your car makes, sucking the diaphragm open from the top chamber.

The valves are modified to operate at a healthy 20 Hg of vacuum. I built a tester just for that purpose and make sure every valve opreates at that vacuum (I also do a real life test to back up the bench testing by running the valves in my car for a little bit).
Like warranty pointed out, if you have issues with the car, the valve is going to highlight them. He had to take care of all his leaks before he could succesfully run the valve. In my car, the valve always snitch and tell me if I develop a leak because of the weird noises and operation.

You also pointed out that the response and recovery is slugish, that alone tells me something else is going on (most likely a leak). With that said, if you feel confident that the car is 100% and the valve is the problem, I'll gladly take it back and send you a new one or give you a full refund if you're just not satisfied with it:beer:.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

As Max pointed out, my situation is the perfect example. I've had my valve for a few months now, and I just today FINALLY got all my leaks sealed up. So far I've needed to replace my TIP, high temp turbo hose, intercooler to charge pipe hose, and fix or replace about 4-5 vac caps/hose plugs. I also just bought a compressor from harbor freight (awesome deal for $40 and HUGELY helpful in finding all my leaks). My car runs like a raped ape! In the almost 4 years that I've had this car, it has NEVER run this well. I highly suggest you get used to testing your system often, or at least anytime you don't feel like your running right. I've gotten to the point where I can pretty much feel anytime I've got a boost/vac leak. The bigger ones will definitely make drivability and turbo operations noticeably poor. When I was having problems I actually put my stock Bosch back in because the bucking and DV operation SUCKED. The stock bosch didnt require as much vac to operate so the symptoms weret as noticeable. that bear trap like clamping of the evo dv is awesome! Although it comes at a price. Your system MUST BE LEAK FREE or your goin to hate it. I've gotten to the point now where any time I remove or replace anything in the system I pressure test. I surprise myself how many times a catch something I missed.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-3-hp-3-gallon-100-psi-oilless-air-compressor-97080.html


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## gearheadzTV (Sep 15, 2009)

warranty225cpe said:


> As Max pointed out, my situation is the perfect example. I've had my valve for a few months now, and I just today FINALLY got all my leaks sealed up. So far I've needed to replace my TIP, high temp turbo hose, intercooler to charge pipe hose, and fix or replace about 4-5 vac caps/hose plugs. I also just bought a compressor from harbor freight (awesome deal for $40 and HUGELY helpful in finding all my leaks). My car runs like a raped ape! In the almost 4 years that I've had this car, it has NEVER run this well. I highly suggest you get used to testing your system often, or at least anytime you don't feel like your running right. I've gotten to the point where I can pretty much feel anytime I've got a boost/vac leak. The bigger ones will definitely make drivability and turbo operations noticeably poor. When I was having problems I actually put my stock Bosch back in because the bucking and DV operation SUCKED. The stock bosch didnt require as much vac to operate so the symptoms weret as noticeable. that bear trap like clamping of the evo dv is awesome! Although it comes at a price. Your system MUST BE LEAK FREE or your goin to hate it. I've gotten to the point now where any time I remove or replace anything in the system I pressure test. I surprise myself how many times a catch something I missed.


Agree^^^
Mechanic did a smoke test and found a bunch of vacuum leaks so we replaced practically every vacuum hose we could, installed an APR TIP and a 5 or 7 piece Forge Silicone Hose kit (IC, turbo hose,etc). Then did a test again and found another leaking line we overlooked. Spent about a grand on just the parts!
Car is running like a bat out of hell! 
I just realized that I need to buy a new DV, I had a TurboXS that the dealer made me replace in order to do a job under warranty and I never got it back. 
I was looking at the Forge DV relocation kit and the Forge splitter BOV/DV. Any :thumbup: or :thumbdown:???

















Off topic, I also had a CAI that ran down to the bottom vent, it sounded great and I felt the throttle response to be quicker....well that was also removed by the dealer when I drove through a puddle and sucked water into my intake. I still have that intake around and since the car is only driven a few days a month if even, I am thinking of reinstalling it...or should I just leave the K&N drop in???


----------



## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

^ forge dv relocation and the Evo dv is by far the way to go. To say that nothing comes close would be an understatement.


----------



## Arnolds64 (Nov 13, 2009)

*Did a similar setup.*



corradojohnt said:


> I don't have a picture but here is a description of what I did:
> -----------------
> *Parts used for TIP to DV connection*
> 
> ...


I did the same thing as the plastic Reducers seem to melt some. Max said he was going to offer these or suggest them. Look for my reply here as I also have sent pic links to what I bought and replace them with.


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

Arnolds64 said:


> I did the same thing as the plastic Reducers seem to melt some. Max said he was going to offer these or suggest them. Look for my reply here as I also have sent pic links to what I bought and replace them with.


Yup, only silicone reducers and metal coupling are now offered with the madmax dv.


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

Madmax...you has pm! :thumbup:


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

Converted2VW said:


> Madmax...you has pm! :thumbup:


PM replied :beer::beer::beer: !


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## carcraz (Jan 25, 2011)

madmax199,
i would like to get an awesome custom built DV from the grand master..hehe
its a for 1.8T Longitudinal Passat B5 fitted with F4-L turbine running on FMIC.
kindly advise.
hope to hear from you soon


----------



## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

carcraz said:


> madmax199,
> i would like to get an awesome custom built DV from the grand master..hehe
> its a for 1.8T Longitudinal Passat B5 fitted with F4-L turbine running on FMIC.
> kindly advise.
> hope to hear from you soon


PM replied!


----------



## carcraz (Jan 25, 2011)

wow..another MadMax DV comin soon on the road.nice!
is there anymore customized MadMax products comin soon?


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 16, 2006)

I have been running mine for a few months now, all I can say is this valve is a BEAST!!!! Never had a valve react so quickly and recover, holds boost levels I am running which are higher than the normal user 










I don't want to hear about how dirty and messy my engine bay is its a work in progress


----------



## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> I have been running mine for a few months now, all I can say is this valve is a BEAST!!!! Never had a valve react so quickly and recover, holds boost levels I am running which are higher than the normal user
> 
> 
> 
> ...




To hell with the dirt, how does it run? That hard pipe for the dv relocation looks pretty nice:thumbup:


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 16, 2006)

warranty225cpe said:


> To hell with the dirt, how does it run? That hard pipe for the dv relocation looks pretty nice:thumbup:


Pretty solid :thumbup: Need to finish the WMI install but it holds boost VERY nicely! Pulls strong, and I cant notice any lag from when it dumps to when I am back on the throttle


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Pretty solid :thumbup: Need to finish the WMI install but it holds boost VERY nicely! Pulls strong, and I cant notice any lag from when it dumps to when I am back on the throttle


Nice:thumbup:
I see your running the 2.0 cps, how do you like em? I just bumped the gap on mine and am loving it. Where are you gapped?


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 16, 2006)

warranty225cpe said:


> Nice:thumbup:
> I see your running the 2.0 cps, how do you like em? I just bumped the gap on mine and am loving it. Where are you gapped?


Been running the 2.0T CPS for about 5k miles, I like them, been gapped at .040 since I put them in with brand new BK7RE's, noticed a smoother idle however that might be contributed from replacing 10 year old coilpacks that were on the car 

Not one hiccup or misfire since I have installed these, running a pretty aggressive tune and they have been great. Have nothing negative to say about them. I am going to need to close the gap much tighter once I finish the WMI install but I am sure they will be great then as well!


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

John, you end up running Maestro yet? The dump tube is legit :beer:


----------



## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

QUOTE=DeckManDubs;74311155]John, you end up running Maestro yet? The dump tube is legit :beer:[/QUOTE]

I am digging that bypass hard pipe too, nice touch John!


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 16, 2006)

DeckManDubs said:


> John, you end up running Maestro yet? The dump tube is legit :beer:


No Maestro just yet, very tempted to buy my current tune is proving to be VERY good :thumbup:



madmax199 said:


> I am digging that bypass hard pipe too, nice touch John!


Thanks Max! Relocated it to the cold side and wasn't happy with the 1" tubing I had available, so we decided to do something unique


----------



## Arnolds64 (Nov 13, 2009)

*Diverter.*

This is really one of those mods that you feel and that works. So much more than Intakes. It changes the whole dynamic of the way the car runs. Quicker spool means quicker car. Still is not N/A response but better. Very good bang for the buck. So much better than Forge! If you have flashed your car this is a must.


----------



## ECS Tuning - Audi (Oct 12, 2009)

Check out the new diverter valve from Forge! 

*Click HERE to order or for more information. *

Let me know if you have any questions. 

Jason


----------



## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Check out the new diverter valve from Forge!
> 
> [
> Let me know if you have any questions.
> ...


Jason, send one down my way and I'll put it to the test for the rest of the community to witness.
I have full testing capacity with my Madmax compact DV tester. I can test spring holding capacity seperately from reaction speed/recovery, and I can also check vacuum needed for actuation. I can even replicate real life situation in steady state, where there is positive pressure feeding the top chamber from the vacuum nipple creating a pressure differential on both side side of the diaphragm/piston (that's what the plugged vaccum hose is for in the tester, hook it up the DV nipple and pressurize both side at a set PSI and get real life results). 

I am always open to test new things (I bought and tested the new sychronic BOV from Synapse when it came out and tested it, it held lots of psi but still wasn't as fast as the madmax DV). As far as I can tell this is still the old Forge design with a new shell, and they suck at life because they are slow as turtle and tend to get stuck because of all the friction area (I have a Forge back up DV in my trunk because people with 1.8t always want to buy the one in my car when I go racing. It works OK with the modifications I did to it but a far cry from what a Madmax DV does).


Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


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## SP Scirocco (Dec 7, 2001)




----------



## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

I really do wish ECS would put its money where it's mouth is. I would be VERY surprised if the new Forge didn't suck just as much, or damn near as bad as my 007 did. You really don't know what your missing with the Forge, because you assume that the sloppy crap performance is the norm. I think ECS should carry the Max valve. Considering they sell the new Forge for $189, the price of the Max valve alone makes it a better option. Add in "service free"and better performance to the mix, and it's not even worth debating..


Truth San!!:wave:


----------



## carcraz (Jan 25, 2011)

warranty225cpe said:


> I really do wish ECS would put its money where it's mouth is. I would be VERY surprised if the new Forge didn't suck just as much, or damn near as bad as my 007 did. You really don't know what your missing with the Forge, because you assume that the sloppy crap performance is the norm. I think ECS should carry the Max valve. Considering they sell the new Forge for $189, the price of the Max valve alone makes it a better option. Add in "service free"and better performance to the mix, and it's *not even worth debating*..
> 
> 
> Truth San!!:wave:


dats a good one!! lol

madmax,
any update on when my shipment can be release? not rushing you juz wann estimation date.
thanks


----------



## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

carcraz said:


> dats a good one!! lol
> 
> madmax,
> any update on when my shipment can be release? not rushing you juz wann estimation date.
> thanks


Sometime next week, I'm waiting for your valve and silicone reducers to arrive. It only takes me an hour with a couple "annoying wife" breaks to finish it, once everything is here :beer:


----------



## deltaP (Jul 26, 2011)

:beer:Max, I installed the DV you made for me and all I can say is WOW. My wife and I both LOVE the sound and performance!!! I LOVE hearing the valve twerp! It really reminds me of the Audi Quattro race cars of the 80's as seen in this youtube video. You can hear the valve throughout the video...

Secrets of Speed: Unfair Advantage (Segment 2) 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DuxwR5i6Vlo&feature=related


----------



## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

deltaP said:


> :beer:Max, I installed the DV you made for me and all I can say is WOW. My wife and I both LOVE the sound and performance!!! I LOVE hearing the valve twerp! It really reminds me of the Audi Quattro race cars of the 80's as seen in this youtube video. You can hear the valve throughout the video...
> 
> Secrets of Speed: Unfair Advantage (Segment 2)
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DuxwR5i6Vlo&feature=related


WOW, they must have used something really really quick in reaction. Must have been a diaphragm valve because pistons can never react this quick (even the new Synapse synchronic) . Whatever they used, sounds exactly like the Madmax valve when I'm racing (you built boost back up almost instantly). These bastards at Audi (I love them) must have figured out how to make a fast release by drilling an external relief hole (the only way I know to make a DV react so quick) . Enjoy your valve buddy!


----------



## synchronic (Jul 21, 2005)

madmax199 said:


> I am always open to test new things (I bought and tested the new sychronic BOV from Synapse when it came out and tested it, it held lots of psi but still wasn't as fast as the madmax DV).


Which ports did you run on the BOV? Do you have the SB BOV or the new smaller DV? If you want to test out the new DV, which can be run in either push or pull, just contact support and we'll swap you out, and even get you some specialized springs we use for some applications.


----------



## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

synchronic said:


> Which ports did you run on the BOV? Do you have the SB BOV or the new smaller DV? If you want to test out the new DV, which can be run in either push or pull, just contact support and we'll swap you out, and even get you some specialized springs we use for some applications.


 A + B at manifold pressure, and C hooked up to a dedicated Boost source post TB. 

Just going on your site now I found out that you have a newer version and I would love to try it with the specialized springs you've mentioned (my car run at 33 psi). The problem is that I can't exchange you because I sold the old one I bought for testing purposes. I have to say that the reason your valve was mentioned in this thread is because it really is the best aftermarket one that there is. If for testing/promotion's sake you want to send one for the TT community to test, we'll gladly take it (I'm speaking for the community and will perform the tests myself and objectively share the results). 

Hope to hear back from you as we can all learn from this experiment.


----------



## synchronic (Jul 21, 2005)

Absolutely, we would like to see your feedback since the last time you played with a Synchronic unit was well over 2+ years ago. We've had quite a few more silent revisions since then on the SB unit. Port C is sourced internally now. We have also found that the fastest reaction times are with Port B to boost/vac and Port A to atmosphere, YMMV depending on application. For most applications, removing the pre-load spring also produces faster reaction times. Most of these tweaks are more or less built-in to the newer DV, and the packaging is much smaller to accomodate VAG applications.

Just PM me your contact info and support will contact you to get you a test unit.

Here are the revisions, since you last had a unit to play with: http://synapseengineering.com/support/faq.php?cid=1&answer=2#f2


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## madmax199 (Oct 28, 2009)

synchronic said:


> Absolutely, we would like to see your feedback since the last time you played with a Synchronic unit was well over 2+ years ago. We've had quite a few more silent revisions since then on the SB unit. Port C is sourced internally now. We have also found that the fastest reaction times are with Port B to boost/vac and Port A to atmosphere, YMMV depending on application. For most applications, removing the pre-load spring also produces faster reaction times. Most of these tweaks are more or less built-in to the newer DV, and the packaging is much smaller to accomodate VAG applications.
> 
> Just PM me your contact info and support will contact you to get you a test unit.
> 
> Here are the revisions, since you last had a unit to play with: http://synapseengineering.com/support/faq.php?cid=1&answer=2#f2


Very interesting, I will PM you shortly and I'm looking forward to testing this baby (I'm sure the rest of the community is too).


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## deltaP (Jul 26, 2011)

:facepalm:


The_Madmax199 said:


> subscribed :screwy:!


Wow, Banned? WTF?:banghead::screwy:


----------



## MKllllvr28 (Sep 15, 2005)

Banned twice in one day? Some ones got their panties up in a bunch....


----------



## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Who got banned?


----------



## MKllllvr28 (Sep 15, 2005)

Max


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Vortex is fuchin stupid. Did they shut down the thread on his CAs also?


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## MKllllvr28 (Sep 15, 2005)

Pretty sure that was black holed.


----------



## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

what thread was black holed? what was Max talking about in it?


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

I hope he creates a new username. Dude posted some good tech


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## MKllllvr28 (Sep 15, 2005)

[email protected] said:


> what thread was black holed? what was Max talking about in it?


 His control arms. 



dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> I hope he creates a new username. Dude posted some good tech


 He did they deleted it too.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

**** it. Time to switch to QW I guess


----------



## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

PLAYED TT said:


> **** it. Time to switch to QW I guess


I'm not sure I could do the migration to QW. I do visit it and post and while some members are very knowledgeable- the close-minded tone of the group turns me off.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Well that leaves us with only one other option as we discussed.


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Audizine>QW

Just Sayin


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

I agree with Doug. The close minded wana-be elitist vibe on QW gets old. I just got done telling off one of their resident know-it-alls because he lacked social graces. So, I don't think QW is the place for me either. I think I'll just start posting more on audifreaks. Audizine is almost as bad as QW, just a younger crowd. It's funny how they all talk **** about vortex when it seems the guys here tend to be the most neutral (aside from the guys that want to fit their cars with clown shoes).


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## Rubberband (Sep 28, 2006)

so yeah, I was real interested in the DV but now that I looked up madmax, it says he got banned.
anyone know how I can get ahold of him?


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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

QW has a horrible layout. It's unreadable. And the AZ forum is a ghost town.


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## quattrosNrabbits (Jun 23, 2007)

Rubberband said:


> so yeah, I was real interested in the DV but now that I looked up madmax, it says he got banned.
> anyone know how I can get ahold of him?


He's found under the same handle (madmax199) on QW.


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## beeyond (Oct 6, 2008)

*QW many of us post on but not really any information of sorts*

Audizine do post of graphs ect. but is not as used as much as QW or VWVortex.....

VwVortex can not afford to lose their advertisers in which Madmaxx makes a somewhat difficult time for

by either out right ripping the crap out of the product and then produce the same likens /use of product but possible better.....

or chimming in on a VwVortex user's post of an item they purchased that has gone bad whether do to their on fault or just a product that had a problem and the company had not or was not given proper time to work out with the person who purchased it......

I think bring out potential flaws and giving the company a chance to respond is great but I have not seen that happen. just the jump on the ban wagon..... 

I can not afford to advertise on this forum but this is the best forum in combination on audi/vw in the USA......

and thus the cost of advertising.. All Max has done is go over the fringe just a little..... in other words do not tick off the big boys.......

Remember do not take things a gospel take it home do the math and decide on your own but always ask questions.......

IMO.......


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

beeyond said:


> .....
> VwVortex can not afford to lose their advertisers in which Madmaxx makes a somewhat difficult time for by either out right ripping the crap out of the product and then produce the same likens /use of product but possible better.....
> 
> or chimming in on a VwVortex user's post of an item they purchased that has gone bad whether do to their on fault or just a product that had a problem and the company had not or was not given proper time to work out with the person who purchased it......
> ...


 sorry, still trying to make sense of your rambling. But I think this will sum it up.
Gruvenparts got pissed because Max made better control arms. Max wasn't paying to advertise. Gruvenparts complained. Max isn't a paying customer, so he got the poo covered end of the stick. It's not that hard to figure out.


----------



## germanengineering g60 (Aug 20, 2007)

*DV problem.*

Do DV's get stuck? like a Bailey in particular

http://www.awe-tuning.com/products/audi-1/tt/mk1/1-8t/awe-baileyvalve-30.html

instead of one of those bubble wooshes it just whooshe after letting off the throttle. is it repairable?


----------



## MKllllvr28 (Sep 15, 2005)

germanengineering g60 said:


> Do DV's get stuck? like a Bailey in particular
> 
> http://www.awe-tuning.com/products/audi-1/tt/mk1/1-8t/awe-baileyvalve-30.html
> 
> instead of one of those bubble wooshes it just whooshe after letting off the throttle. is it repairable?


Take it apart. Clean it and lightly lube it. It fixed mine back when I had one.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

I have the baily's. For 2 years with no problem. They are guaranteed for life of the original owner. Just take it back for a new one


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

I literally had one for five years without issue. Good dv's IMO


----------



## ttwsm (Feb 27, 2011)

warranty225cpe said:


> sorry, still trying to make sense of your rambling. But I think this will sum it up.
> Gruvenparts got pissed because Max made better control arms. Max wasn't paying to advertise. Gruvenparts complained. Max isn't a paying customer, so he got the poo covered end of the stick. It's not that hard to figure out.


The whole thing bums me out. Max posted a lot of interesting stuff and generated a lot of excitement. I can see it from Gruven's perspective too though - I mean, they (and the other vendors) are paying to make this whole forum possible, and then Max uses that same forum (without paying) to sell a competing product. That's not right either.

I haven't looked into it (not a potential vendor) but I wonder if there isn't some sort of intermediate tier of support that Fourtitude / VWVortex could sell. Sort of a "temporary vendor" type of deal. Max isn't the only person who's ever wanted to fab up a limited run of something and sell it to the community.


----------



## germanengineering g60 (Aug 20, 2007)

MKllllvr28 said:


> Take it apart. Clean it and lightly lube it. It fixed mine back when I had one.


cool thanks, will do.


----------



## germanengineering g60 (Aug 20, 2007)

germanengineering g60 said:


> Do DV's get stuck? like a Bailey in particular
> 
> http://www.awe-tuning.com/products/audi-1/tt/mk1/1-8t/awe-baileyvalve-30.html
> 
> instead of one of those bubble wooshes it just whooshe after letting off the throttle. is it repairable?


it does good on cold but after a couple of runs it will just woosh out all the air.


----------



## beeyond (Oct 6, 2008)

warranty225cpe said:


> sorry, still trying to make sense of your rambling. But I think this will sum it up.
> Gruvenparts got pissed because Max made better control arms. Max wasn't paying to advertise. Gruvenparts complained. Max isn't a paying customer, so he got the poo covered end of the stick. It's not that hard to figure out.


"still trying to make sense of your rambling" 

I read no rambling.

I mentioned no advertiser. 
I pointed out Max is excellent at what he does but that he went a bit into advertising without paying for it.
Max does make very valid points and is a asset to the forum.

Please tell me what you read between the lines on this post......

You are on several forums as I ......


----------



## carcraz (Jan 25, 2011)

hi all,
have a bit of situation here.

ordered madmax DV and fully paid on 1/11/11
max confirm ship out by 3rd week (sometime in 14/11).

since max is banned from this forum recently, i cant PM him. did sent an email to him but no reply(already 3days ago).
should i be worried?
as its going to be end of the month.

thanks


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

He's on quattroworld.. pm him over there


----------



## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

carcraz said:


> hi all,
> have a bit of situation here.
> 
> ordered madmax DV and fully paid on 1/11/11
> ...


Max is busy as all heck. He will get back to you as soon as possible. If you don't hear from him by Tuesday, drop him another email.


----------



## BeasTToftheEast (Sep 20, 2007)

Did you ever test the Tial 38mm unit?


----------



## germanengineering g60 (Aug 20, 2007)

I cleaned out the bailey DV and oiled it but it still gets stuck after about 8 miles of driving. if the car sits for about an hour it works again for another 8 or so miles. what could be causing that?


----------



## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

germanengineering g60 said:


> I cleaned out the bailey DV and oiled it but it still gets stuck after about 8 miles of driving. if the car sits for about an hour it works again for another 8 or so miles. what could be causing that?


Sounds like your Dv is on its way out.


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

I would say return it for a new one again, but after being opened it voids the warranty I believe.


----------



## daywheniwaschillin (Aug 6, 2007)

Can anyone explain what blocking the internal boost reference and adding an external one does? It seems simple enough todo, I just want to know why it is recommended.

Thanks

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk


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## carcraz (Jan 25, 2011)

hi max,
pls check ur hotmail. URGENT!


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

carcraz said:


> hi max,
> pls check ur hotmail. URGENT!


He got banned a while ago.


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## carcraz (Jan 25, 2011)

i know but he can still view the threads here!!!

max.
item ship out?


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## carcraz (Jan 25, 2011)

hi max!
*Urgent!! kindly reply on when shipping release day?*
previous email u said thursday (24 nov) arrival of another DV and can be box up for tomorrow shipping.. its already past and its gonna be sunday.
also gonna be a month since the day of payment (1 Nov)
if u cant ship out by 28th Nov(monday) with tracking number provided, kindly refund 100% back if you dont mind.
i think i have been a good customer, patient enough for almost 1month and yet to ship out with confirmation.
thanks


----------



## carcraz (Jan 25, 2011)

yes..max have ship out the DV..so excited 
pls ignore the post earlier, i guess i was a bit too anxious when max delay a few days.
like u guys said, he is a real busy bee...lol...

will post my feedback once i installed it. i can make a comparison between audi TT225HP DV, FT's DV and forge DV as i have the following.


----------



## carcraz (Jan 25, 2011)

BTW, wat went wrong was:

_Originally Posted by pure_evo
Madmax199 and Jimmer307:

There was a slight mishap when the two BOVs and Precision 6800cc injectors were shipped yesterday. My wife, by mistake, shipped the BOVs to Jimmer307 along with the Precision 6800cc injectors. They are going to arrive in two separate boxes. I really apologize for this mistake. My question for you Jimmer307, is can you please send the BOVs to Madmax199 for me when they arrive at your residence? I can send you whatever it cost to have the BOVs shipped. The address that the BOVs need to go to is:


Again, I am very sorry that this happened and I wanted to inform each of you immediately."
_
shipping mishap between the DV and injectors..so dats why it got delay so much..
not anybody's fault, but sometimes things do happen. after all we are only 'humans'...
so lets continue improving our car ride!! and have fun.:thumbup:

thanks max!! and being a early santa for me this year..:snowcool:


----------



## corradojohnt (Sep 16, 2007)

^You may want to remove the personal info in your last post.


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Unless there are creepers on here:sly:


----------



## carcraz (Jan 25, 2011)

my bad!!..didnt thought of it.
the modify button is not available already
any ideas?
so sorry


----------



## carcraz (Jan 25, 2011)

found the edit button.
done.
so sorry about it, Max


----------



## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

Holy multi-post batman:laugh:


----------



## carcraz (Jan 25, 2011)

juz received the custom DV..
*verdict:* they are simply_ 'fast'_..no comparison from the rest of DV i have. the difference is quite substantial.
u guys need to experience it ur ownselves..

i love it!! thanks MAdMax :thumbup:


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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

How do you mean, fast? As in, "to close when transitioning out of vacuum"? How is the part-throttle drivability? Is the throttle response a bit more harsh (or) aggressive?


----------



## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> How do you mean, fast? As in, "to close when transitioning out of vacuum"? How is the part-throttle drivability? Is the throttle response a bit more harsh (or) aggressive?


I agree, pretty bland on the specifics. Part throttle for me with this DV has been great. The onpen/close transition is almost unnoticeable. Very smooth! When I swapped in my stock DV, I found myself waiting for the pressure dump. 
Have you had a chance to try one with a frankenturbo yet? I'd be willing to send you mine just so you can see how responsive this thing is..


----------



## The_RoadWarrior (Nov 21, 2011)

warranty225cpe said:


> I agree, pretty bland on the specifics. Part throttle for me with this DV has been great. The onpen/close transition is almost unnoticeable. Very smooth! When I swapped in my stock DV, I found myself waiting for the pressure dump.
> Have you had a chance to try one with a frankenturbo yet? I'd be willing to send you mine just so you can see how responsive this thing is..


No need to send Doug anything, whenever he's ready for a real DV, I will give him one . Steve aka Spartiati has been running one successfully in his F23 powered VW for a long time, and he's the official Franken tester. John at 42 Draft Design also runs a Madmax valve ( even before he had a FT ) so there are knowledgable people/examples of what a Madmax dv does on that turbo (some other BT too) :beer: .


----------



## The_RoadWarrior (Nov 21, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> How do you mean, fast? As in, "to close when transitioning out of vacuum"? How is the part-throttle drivability? Is the throttle response a bit more harsh (or) aggressive?


I think he means response and recovery. 

Response is how quick a valve operate (open/dump and close). Recovery is how fast the valve can hold back max boost after a dump (usually measured in psi). Higher mass pistons valves have a harder time slowing down the piston's momentum and change its direction when compared to low mass diaphragms. On top of that, the Madmax dv is modified to have a quick release ( atmospheric bleed hole that only operates on bypass and blockage of the internal boost port).

What all of that does is make the valve lightning quick ( capable of being raced) while retaining stock drivability ( the orgasmic sound and being able to hold 30+ psi can be considered a bonus) :beer:.


----------



## Arnolds64 (Nov 13, 2009)

*Drive by wire with the DV?*

Hey Max does the Sprint Booster thingy work in concert for a quicker re-spool since it helps the Drive by Wire react faster? Have you tried this?? Guys the DV is a huge change from stock and mandatory with the Tune.


----------



## WiscoVR6 (Jul 25, 2008)

Interesting topic, Where can you buy this Madmax DV?


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## KN78 (Feb 2, 2010)

WiscoVR6 said:


> Interesting topic, Where can you buy this Madmax DV?


 Right here!

http://www.mcpii.com/MadMaxDV.html


----------



## hallkbrd (Apr 8, 2000)

Thanks to this thread I just finished installing a modified DV (did the crush and drill job on it)







I LIKE!

Transition from on boost to vac to boost is supper quick. Very impressive. Oddly, it seems to have made the idle smoother over the Forge 007p.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

^^^ Good job and that's what I originally wanted it to be :thumbup:


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

METAL DV EVO 9 



PLASTIC DV EVO 8 




Synapse vs Greddy 



Synapse VS Turbo XS RFL


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

18T_BT said:


> METAL DV EVO 9


 Wait a second, I'm failing to grasp what this means to us and a *Modified valve* that used the evo metal units as a blank canvas. Did you even read the thread to realize that both holding pressure capacity and reaction speed have be modified here? 

From the very first page, it was showed how to modify recovery speed from a discharge by blocking the internal reference port and drilling an atmospheric bleed hole for the trapped pressure to escape (tremendously altering the recovery speed to the point of being faster than the first generation synapse that I personally tested) :wave:


----------



## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Wait a second, I'm failing to grasp what this means to us and a *Modified valve* that used the evo metal units as a blank canvas. Did you even read the thread to realize that both holding pressure capacity and reaction speed have be modified here?
> 
> From the very first page, it was showed how to modify recovery speed from a discharge by blocking the internal reference port and drilling an atmospheric bleed hole for the trapped pressure to escape (tremendously altering the recovery speed to the point of being faster than the first generation synapse that I personally tested) :wave:


 I think you should send them one of your modded valves to do a test video on. Put the two of them to the test side by side, and let the cards fall where they may.opcorn: 

My prediction..., MM valve by a nose.


----------



## MrAkalin (Jan 4, 2011)

Hey MadMax! I need your valve.. I'm ready to order one but your website says they're on back order. I was gonna message you but I can't figure out how to pm you on here :screwy:

Help me get your kit!

Edit: this is for a 02 1.8t Gti


----------



## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

MrAkalin said:


> Hey MadMax! I need your valve.. I'm ready to order one but your website says they're on back order. I was gonna message you but I can't figure out how to pm you on here :screwy:
> 
> Help me get your kit!
> 
> Edit: this is for a 02 1.8t Gti


Check again; they are not on back order anymore.


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Andaloons said:


> Check again; they are not on back order anymore.


Yeah, they are available again through MCPI

(MrAmalin you got a PM!)


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## EuroSpic_TT (Apr 24, 2012)

just wondering where i can get the reducers, if i can get them seperately.. :banghead:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

EuroSpic_TT said:


> just wondering where i can get the reducers, if i can get them seperately.. :banghead:


I can get you some in blue (black ones are hard to come by so it would be a bit more difficult).


----------



## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

EuroSpic_TT said:


> just wondering where i can get the reducers, if i can get them seperately.. :banghead:


Siliconeintakes.com


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

warranty225cpe said:


> Siliconeintakes.com


Been out of stock and on back order status for almost a year. Their website sucks and still show availability.:wave:


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw...acat=0&_odkw=1.25"+silicone+reducer&_osacat=0


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Been out of stock and on back order status for almost a year. Their website sucks and still show availability.:wave:


Damn.. My bad. That's where I got mine..


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

I think I am going to give this a whirl and I'll even do the gus mod


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

18T_BT said:


> I think I am going to give this a whirl and I'll even do the gus mod


:thumbup:


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## hallkbrd (Apr 8, 2000)

These are what I used for the elbows...

http://www.hps-siliconehoses.com/hp...silicone-hose-25mm-32mm.html?___store=default


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## vwdirector (Jan 31, 2006)

*Buying Evo dv*

How can i get in contact with mad max to buy a DV?


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

vwdirector said:


> How can i get in contact with mad max to buy a DV?


 They sell them online. Mcpi.com I believe.


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

warranty225cpe said:


> They sell them online. Mcpi.com I believe.


 MCPi will be offline for a few weeks. Mike posted this on QW earlier today: 

http://forums.quattroworld.com/tt/msgs/212021.phtml 


cheers


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

TTC2k5 said:


> MCPi will be offline for a few weeks. Mike posted this on QW earlier today:
> 
> http://forums.quattroworld.com/tt/msgs/212021.phtml
> 
> ...


 :beer: :thumbup: 

Anyone can always PM me for Madmax contact info


----------



## volksvrsex (Feb 8, 2004)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> :beer: :thumbup:
> 
> Anyone can always PM me for Madmax contact info


 lol


----------



## rex_racer (May 19, 2001)

Does anyone know the approximate dimensions, of just the valve, including the 1.25" bungs? Trying to see if I have enough space to fit the valve. For reference sake is it larger or smaller than a Greddy Type RS?


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

rex_racer said:


> Does anyone know the approximate dimensions, of just the valve, including the 1.25" bungs? Trying to see if I have enough space to fit the valve. For reference sake is it larger or smaller than a Greddy Type RS?


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

I can take some measurements of mine for you, in a couple of weeks, when i do the install. 

cheers.


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## rex_racer (May 19, 2001)

Fantastic, thanks for the help guys, I believe I have the clearance to fit this valve.


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## Dani_B (Jun 1, 2009)

Marcus i pm'd you yesterday mate.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Dani_B said:


> Marcus i pm'd you yesterday mate.


 Replied Sir!


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

rex_racer said:


> Fantastic, thanks for the help guys, I believe I have the clearance to fit this valve.


 :thumbup:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

DeckManDubs said:


>


 Thanks for sharing the dimension drawings! :beer::beer::beer:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

rex_racer said:


> Fantastic, thanks for the help guys, I believe I have the clearance to fit this valve.


 :thumbup: for finding room to fit the valve. We are lucky to have plenty of room to play with in the TT. In the cold side relocation area, I even found room to fit a twin Madmax DV setup ( yes, that's 2 DV in series to allow double the volume bypassed at part throttle and low loads). 


View of the twin outlets 











DV 1 












DV 2


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## Dani_B (Jun 1, 2009)

Eh, 2 valves, that sir is mental. Do yo have any better pictures from a distance as i cant get my head around itll work/look.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Dani_B said:


> Eh, 2 valves, that sir is mental. Do yo have any better pictures from a distance as i cant get my head around itll work/look.


 


*This is a picture of my entire charge pipe from turbo to manifold* 











*This is the pipe with the dual outlet welded to accommodate 2 DVs* 











*Here is the best pic I could take. It shows the dual oultet and valves, and you can see how they are joined back with a "T" to recirculate bypassed pressure*


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## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

*FV-QR*

I have noticed since doing this it cooes like a pigeon sometimes, is this normal?

We call it our unicorn.


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Eric, it's normal at part-throttle/half-release situations when you're not generating much vacuum (or boost for that matter). As long as this is not happening at full boost WOT and full release, you're OK. This is the reason I run a dual valve setup, so I have twice the volume bypassed at part-throttle at the track. You could test and see if you didn't over crush the valve by hooking a hand held vacuum pump to the valve, it should open at no more than 19 hg of vacuum.


With a single valve, I get the same noise at part throttle but full boost and WOT have full release. It can be heard in this video of one of my runs at Waterfest.


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## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

*FV-QR*

yea its only if part-throttle and low boost situations, hard shifting at high RPM's its not existent. 

I haven't yet crushed the top of the valve yet, I wanted to see how it performs un-crushed and its much better than the old valve (hyperboost) that was in there.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

ejg3855 said:


> yea its only if part-throttle and low boost situations, hard shifting at high RPM's its not existent.
> 
> I haven't yet crushed the top of the valve yet, I wanted to see how it performs un-crushed and its much better than the old valve (hyperboost) that was in there.


You're good then! When/if crushing, just do it lightly and stop when 19-20 hg opens the valve but not really needed until you're looking to hold some serious boost (Madmax type standards ).


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## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

*FV-QR*

its working good on the F23 at 22psi. Stuck at MAP limit until I get a MBC and a Gauge, tired of tuning the N75 its a good tool but such a pain to dial in. 

Just going to work to the limits of the stock fuel pump, it seems to be holding ok so far. The wifey doesnt like the idea of a loud fuel pump.


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## WiKKiDTT (Aug 13, 2009)

I Need one of these valves pm me and I can send payment via PayPal.


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## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

WiKKiDTT said:


> I Need one of these valves pm me and I can send payment via PayPal.


DIY its cake. It took me about 12mins start to finish. 


Not trying to take money from Max. Mpcii sells them as well.


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## deltaP (Jul 26, 2011)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> *This is a picture of my entire charge pipe from turbo to manifold*
> 
> 
> 
> ...



It looks like the valves are in parallel, not series. I believe the parallel setup would really blowdown quickly.opcorn:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

ejg3855 said:


> DIY its cake. It took me about 12mins start to finish.
> 
> Not trying to take money from Max. Mpcii sells them as well.


Yes, it's definitely nothing for the real DIYer and that's why I have it in details with pictures at the very first page of this thread. I think what people are paying for is a product that's ready to go and the guarantee that it's done properly (crushing or re-sealing the valve can easily be screwed up). Not everyone is like you and me Eric, with all kind of tooling and resources to find everything to get a job well done. :beer:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

deltaP said:


> It looks like the valves are in parallel, not series. I believe the parallel setup would really blowdown quickly.opcorn:


Clay, I can't see how it would work any other way. If both valves were compounded in series it would make having two valves kind of pointless. The first valve would do all the work and the second would act as piece of pipe where air is flowing through.


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## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

Pickin one up for 40 bucks today. Gona do the external ref. port and prob try it "uncrushed" first since I'm not pushing crazy boost. Also hoping to make my own dv relocation with the proper sized port so I don't need any reducers(minus the tip which I don't really have any other option there).


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

steve-o 16v GLI said:


> Pickin one up for 40 bucks today. Gona do the external ref. port and prob try it "uncrushed" first since I'm not pushing crazy boost. Also hoping to make my own dv relocation with the proper sized port so I don't need any reducers(minus the tip which I don't really have any other option there).


 Jealous of you VW guys. Your DV is right on top in the open and close to the TIP. My Audi A4 has it buried in an extremely tight location. I have to do a complete DV relocation to the cold side to fit it in. And my TIP is located about 3 feet from the Throttle Body side with no room to run hoses. :banghead:


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## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

Can anyone direct me to a place to get the 1-1 1/4" elbow reducer I'd need in my tip. I can't find any made of metal or something that can stand the temps.


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

steve-o 16v GLI said:


> Can anyone direct me to a place to get the 1-1 1/4" elbow reducer I'd need in my tip. I can't find any made of metal or something that can stand the temps.


 try siliconeintakes.com


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## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

Duh shoulda added it needs to be a male to male connector to fit the tip to the recirc tube.


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## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

TTC2k5 said:


> try siliconeintakes.com


 link987 gets you 10%


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

you can also try Forge.


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

ejg3855 said:


> link987 gets you 10%


 :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

Haven't been able to find any barbed elbow reducers in the size needed. I was hoping to have as little clutter with this so I'm having a pipe fabbed up for the throttle body hose that will have a 1.25 port on it. But I guess il just have to get a straight 1" barb and a silicone reducer elbow. Sucks cuz it adds an extra connection point.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

steve-o 16v GLI said:


> Haven't been able to find any barbed elbow reducers in the size needed. I was hoping to have as little clutter with this so I'm having a pipe fabbed up for the throttle body hose that will have a 1.25 port on it. But I guess il just have to get a straight 1" barb and a silicone reducer elbow. Sucks cuz it adds an extra connection point.


 Any decent fabricator will be able to do that for you, no need to add the extra joint if you don't want to. :beer:


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## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

True. All I'd need is a 1" steel/alum. elbow flared out to 1.25"on one end. It doesnt have to be a barbed fitting. Il have to try to find a local place that could do it. A silicone elbow reducer would cost almost as much as the couple ft of 1.25" tube I'm gona need.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

steve-o 16v GLI said:


> True. All I'd need is a 1" steel/alum. elbow flared out to 1.25"on one end. It doesnt have to be a barbed fitting. Il have to try to find a local place that could do it. A silicone elbow reducer would cost almost as much as the couple ft of 1.25" tube I'm gona need.


 Yup! What I'd do is have them weld a lip on both end's edge to prevent slippage and proper clamping.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

*I wanted to update the thread based on some cool troubleshooting and testing from the QW community. It was discovered and confirmed by testing in my car that running the valve with stock programming and the N249 in the loop triggers a code (17608) from part throttle boost ramp. This is due to the fact that the boost limits preset in the OEM maps are exceeded at part throttle and the valve is holding higher boost than what the ECU is expecting. Solutions for stock cars, looking to run the valve, range from bypassing/deleting the N249, to getting a remap which effectively raise those boost limits. *


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## StateSideS3 (Apr 13, 2007)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> *I wanted to update the thread based on some cool troubleshooting and testing from the QW community. It was discovered and confirmed by testing in my car that running the valve with stock programming and the N249 in the loop triggers a code (17608) from part throttle boost ramp. This is due to the fact that the boost limits preset in the OEM maps are exceeded at part throttle and the valve is holding higher boost than what the ECU is expecting. Solutions for stock cars, looking to run the valve, range from bypassing/deleting the N249, to getting a remap which effectively raise those boost limits. *


 My car runs so much smoother and codeless ever since we messed with it that day. We gotta continue to the progress!!


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## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

Finally got mine all hooked up. Bought one off Craigslist for $40 n modded it myself. I plan to do a custom throttle body pipe that will have the proper 1.25 port for a relocation. Then I only need a 90deg reducer for the tip. 

It def is fast reacting. Getting back on the throttle you can really feel how quick it recovers. 
Funny thing was I took it out for a test drive and not even thinking I blast through 1-4 using NLS. Not gona experience the dv when it's not doin anything. lol. Now I'm not gona wana use it anymore so I can here that sweet sound more often.


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## GoremanX (Mar 25, 2012)

madmax199 said:


> Being that I'm a DSM/evo guy and work for Mitsubishi, I decided to use Mitsu's late metal valve found on Evo IX and X for my project. It's a good unit from the get go, offering more release volume, larger and stronger diaphragm than the TT's Bosh unit and capable of holding about 25 psi with slow leak at 17 psi.


 So what if I didn't perform the modifications? (ie. don't crush, don't drill a hole, don't plug the internal reference port) 

Does that mean I'd have a fast-reacting DV that can hold boost to 17psi without any leak and only minimal leak up to 25psi? 

...minus the part-throttle flutter? 

Because honestly, I don't intend to run much more than 20psi on my 1.8T...


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

^^^ you'd have a well designed valve that reacts pretty well on its own, but can take some abuse and heat. The diaphragm in the EVO metal valve is 3 times as thick as the weak rubber used in the Bosh valves for example (in my times, I have yet to see a diaphragm failure with the Mitsu valves). The valve also flow more volume than the Bosh units ever could (larger diameter diaphragm plate and longer opening travel). 

The crushing, when done as suggested, only increases the spring tension from 18 Hg to 19 Hg of vacuum needed to open it. I doubt that the 1 Hg of less tension will totally eliminate the flutter-like sound at part throttle and low loads. The noise is nothing but the valve opening and slamming shut rapidly while bypassing pressure and harmless to components. 

While there is nothing wrong with running the valve as is, I would strongly recommend the internal mods. Blocking the internal port and venting it increases the reaction speed tremendously and put the valve in a class by itself.


----------



## GoremanX (Mar 25, 2012)

Thanks! I wasn't sure if all those modifications were to increase boost holding or if they also improved the reaction time of the valve. Now I know and will go to bed slightly less ignorant tonight  

I like performance, but I LOVE a quiet and stock-sounding engine in my A4.


----------



## vwdirector (Jan 31, 2006)

What's the price on a new Mitsubishi DV? My 3 months old 710n gave out 😡


----------



## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

vwdirector said:


> What's the price on a new Mitsubishi DV? My 3 months old 710n gave out 😡



$159.00

http://www.verdictmotorsports.com/product_p/0024.htm

The MadMax valve helped with controlling a better on/off throttle transition at the track, where the 007's made it difficult to ease on and off the throttle between corners at Lime Rock, often going from full closed to full open causing unwanted weight shift in the corner. 

:thumbup:


----------



## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

GoremanX said:


> I like performance, but I LOVE a quiet and stock-sounding engine in my A4.


Then the MM valve is not for you :laugh:

I think this video is already in this thread somewhere. But rather than dig it up...
http://youtu.be/eegS0EObSIE


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

warranty225cpe said:


> Then the MM valve is not for you :laugh:
> 
> I think this video is already in this thread somewhere. But rather than dig it up...
> http://youtu.be/eegS0EObSIE


Yup...sounds like my MM. 

Hey eric...after you installed the A3 vents, what'd you do with your TT vents? I'm considering adding TT vents to my A3.

b.


----------



## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

TTC2k5 said:


> Yup...sounds like my MM.
> 
> Hey eric...after you installed the A3 vents, what'd you do with your TT vents? I'm considering adding TT vents to my A3.
> 
> b.


I traded my TT vents for the A3s. You would think they are just plug-n-play, but they require a bit of work. The length of the tube behind the bezel is longer on the A3 units. So I had to carve lots of plastic to make it work. Since the A3s are longer, you might have some gaps when adapting over to the TTs on the A3. If you want TT vents try a trade thread in the classifieds. But be prepared to cut some plastic.


----------



## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

warranty225cpe said:


> I traded my TT vents for the A3s. You would think they are just plug-n-play, but they require a bit of work. The length of the tube behind the bezel is longer on the A3 units. So I had to carve lots of plastic to make it work. Since the A3s are longer, you might have some gaps when adapting over to the TTs on the A3. If you want TT vents try a trade thread in the classifieds. But be prepared to cut some plastic.


Cheers. 

Thanks for the info. I have not actually compared them for length. I knew the diameters were the same (within a mm or so) but had not considered the length differences.

b.


----------



## esoxlucios (Sep 17, 2009)

madmax199 said:


> *Valve mounted with clear hoses to show the reducers/adapters neded to go from 4G63T to 1.8t
> 
> 
> 
> ...


*

Where does one get the clear hoses? They hold up under both under-hood heat and boost? Or we're they just for illustrative purposes?*


----------



## esoxlucios (Sep 17, 2009)

Any of our site sponsors carrying the Synapse Synchronic diverter "2nd gen" ? Is this the part number 16503A for our cars? (Unfortunately, I can't use the MadMax valve, because of size restrictions).

I found the Synapse one for $175 on CaptWolesale.com, but read some really bad reviews about it, so I'd rather give the business to one of our trusted sources.


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

esoxlucios said:


> Where does one get the clear hoses? They hold up under both under-hood heat and boost? Or we're they just for illustrative purposes?


They are super thick, very rigid, hold pressure, as well as heat just fine (I used that one on the DV line for over 2 years before switching the setup). I think the one I used in that picture was rated at 150 psi and I even have one in the coolant system that has been rock steady for the better part of 3 years. They should be available at your hydraulic hose store and some hardware stores.


----------



## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

esoxlucios said:


> Any of our site sponsors carrying the Synapse Synchronic diverter "2nd gen" ? Is this the part number 16503A for our cars? (Unfortunately, I can't use the MadMax valve, because of size restrictions).
> 
> I found the Synapse one for $175 on CaptWolesale.com, but read some really bad reviews about it, so I'd rather give the business to one of our trusted sources.


 
Just curious, what size restrictions do you have?


----------



## esoxlucios (Sep 17, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Just curious, what size restrictions do you have?


Right now, the Forge 007p I have comes into contact with the hood when it closes. Really tight fit. I had to rearrange the t-bar clamp for the throttle body, which was also rubbing against it. Anything larger than a 007p won't fit!


----------



## esoxlucios (Sep 17, 2009)

esoxlucios said:


> Any of our site sponsors carrying the Synapse Synchronic diverter "2nd gen" ? Is this the part number 16503A for our cars? (Unfortunately, I can't use the MadMax valve, because of size restrictions).
> 
> I found the Synapse one for $175 on CaptWolesale.com, but read some really bad reviews about it, so I'd rather give the business to one of our trusted sources.


Apparently, the bad reviews about captwholesale are totally accurate.

I tried to buy the thing from the captwholesale Web site. The primary "CheckOut" button didn't work, but there was a secondary option for Google Checkout, so I did that. Placed my order on Saturday.

Today, I get back this message:



> Captwholesale has cancelled your order. You have not been charged.
> Reason: Item out of stock
> Comments from Captwholesale: "sold out"


I wasn't even given the opportunity to back-order. Absolutely nothing on the page —to save me from wasting my time— showing the diverter valve (here) to indicate that it is out of stock or "Sold out." 

Lesson learned: don't buy anything from this captwholesale.

So, do we have any site sponsors who carry the Synapse Synchronic diverter valve for our cars?


----------



## esoxlucios (Sep 17, 2009)

esoxlucios said:


> Any of our site sponsors carrying the Synapse Synchronic diverter "2nd gen" ? Is this the part number 16503A for our cars? (Unfortunately, I can't use the MadMax valve, because of size restrictions).
> 
> I found the Synapse one for $175 on CaptWolesale.com, but read some really bad reviews about it, so I'd rather give the business to one of our trusted sources.


VividRacing said they'd match the Captwholesale price. Order placed: $175.50


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

esoxlucios said:


> Apparently, the bad reviews about captwholesale are totally accurate.
> 
> I tried to buy the thing from the captwholesale Web site. The primary "CheckOut" button didn't work, but there was a secondary option for Google Checkout, so I did that. Placed my order on Saturday.
> 
> ...


 Why not just do a DV relocation so you don't have to settle for the synapse? Moving it would give you more room.


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## esoxlucios (Sep 17, 2009)

warranty225cpe said:


> Why not just do a DV relocation so you don't have to settle for the synapse? Moving it would give you more room.


It is relocated. You can see it here (lower left):


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

I did a nice coat of VHT wrinkle black on my MM valve. That stuff is awesome? Ill take some good pics tonight.


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## esoxlucios (Sep 17, 2009)

Anyone ever read the nasty throw-down between the owners of Synapse and TiAL on Honda-Tech? (Scroll down on that page a bit — much worse than anything I've seen (e.g., between Revo and APR)).

Anyway, in that thread, TiAL blasts Synapse for, among other things, having their stuff made in China. Synapse responded by saying that it made better business sense to make superior technology affordable.

After receiving my Synapse Synchronic diverter valve, today (to replace my trusty Forge 007p), I can attest as to the drawbacks of Chinese mass production: Although I have no doubt the technology is sound, the flanges where the one-inch ports are supposed to fit into we're never deburred. In fact, noone in QA (if they even have such a dep't) ever inserted _anything_ into the flanges, so the ports wouldn't fit in until I deburred them.

Haven't had a chance to test it out, yet. Will post up any interesting results.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

esoxlucios said:


> Anyone ever read the nasty throw-down between the owners of Synapse and TiAL on Honda-Tech? (Scroll down on that page a bit — much worse than anything I've seen (e.g., between Revo and APR)).
> 
> Anyway, in that thread, TiAL blasts Synapse for, among other things, having their stuff made in China. Synapse responded by saying that it made better business sense to make superior technology affordable.
> 
> ...


 *edited for content


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

esoxlucios said:


> Anyone ever read the nasty throw-down between the owners of Synapse and TiAL on Honda-Tech? (Scroll down on that page a bit — much worse than anything I've seen (e.g., between Revo and APR)).
> 
> Anyway, in that thread, TiAL blasts Synapse for, among other things, having their stuff made in China. Synapse responded by saying that it made better business sense to make superior technology affordable.
> 
> ...


 



warranty225cpe said:


> You should start a new thread about the Synapse and your experience with it. From what I've seen, they are a bunch of clowns. That had the (ill advised) idea to come on here and challenge Max's on his valve without knowing WTF they were talking about. Which just tells me they are out to make money (not build a better product). They have a bunch of videos testing their stuff against everyone else's. I would like to see Max do a comparison video of his valve against the synapse. I think that definitive proof that Max has the better valve would put all this BS to bed. And btw, if they don't have their sh|t together enough to finish their parts, that's just the tip of the poop smelling iceberg.


 
I feel that discussing all kind of DV has their place in this thread and is to the benefit of the community. I started this thread as a project for my car and thought I'd share it with DIY info, but it took a life of its own. At this point it's no longer about me or the Madmax dv, but rather anything DV related (the thread is used as a reference all over this forum and even other car forums on the net). 

Despite the negative press all over, I like the synchronic technology and think the crew at synapse is cool and knowledgable. Their product is a step above the status quo, so they'll get slammed by the old dogs that are not up for any new tricks. I tested their original version and liked it, they promised to send me a newer version to test, but never saw it so I can't really say much about it. However, it will be nice for them to send me a pair to test (twin DV for me nowadays), since they are the one who showed up in here and wanted a chance for a fair review.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> I feel that discussing all kind of DV has their place in this thread and is to the benefit of the community. I started this thread as a project for my car and thought I'd share it with DIY info, but it took a life of its own. At this point it's no longer about me or the Madmax dv, but rather anything DV related (the thread is used as a reference all over this forum and even other car forums on the net).
> 
> Despite the negative press all over, I like the synchronic technology and think the crew at synapse is cool and knowledgable. Their product is a step above the status quo, so they'll get slammed by the old dogs that are not up for any new tricks. I tested their original version and liked it, they promised to send me a newer version to test, but never saw it so I can't really say much about it. However, it will be nice for them to send me a pair to test (twin DV for me nowadays), since they are the one who showed up in here and wanted a chance for a fair review.


 Fair enough.. They were my other option when I was having DV issues. I like the fact that they have a good quick disconnect on their valve. Interested in seeing a sid-by-side comparo.


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

I'm running the latest Synchronic DV in my car - it replaced an APR R1 and overall I like it. It does respond and hold better than the R1. However, I'm currently hearing a part throttle air leak… as if the wasetgate was being blown open. I have several springs on the WG so it's likely the DV. 

The Synchronic does have a number of different setup options and is supposed to be able to hold 60psi - so I'll need to look into this some more. The fit and finish is very nice too. By the time it was shipped up to Canada it cost about $250 though  ! 

If I find anything useful regarding this air-leak or DV, I'll post up.


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## esoxlucios (Sep 17, 2009)

esoxlucios said:


> Haven't had a chance to test it out, yet. Will post up any interesting results.


 I've had it on for several days. First observation is that it certainly releases quicker than the Forge 007p, and so noticeably that the turbo stays in boost between aggressive gear shifts on the freeway between 3-5 and 5-6. 

I am, however, hearing a continuous "ssshhhwww" sound from the airbox (a "derivative" of the "ssshhhwwwppp" sound as when a DV releases, but without the truncation (the "ppp" in "ssshhhwwwppp") during full boost that leads me to believe that it is not holding boost. 

This is not conclusive — just my conjecture. For all I know, it's just the normal sound of the turbo in full boost. 

I'm running the APR Stage 3+ kit with the GT28RS. Over the last couple of days, I have been dialing in several turns of preload on the threaded adjuster to see if this goes away.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

esoxlucios said:


> I've had it on for several days. First observation is that it certainly releases quicker than the Forge 007p, and so noticeably that the turbo stays in boost between aggressive gear shifts on the freeway between 3-5 and 5-6.
> 
> I am, however, hearing a continuous "ssshhhwww" sound from the airbox (a "derivative" of the "ssshhhwwwppp" sound as when a DV releases, but without the truncation (the "ppp" in "ssshhhwwwppp") during full boost that leads me to believe that it is not holding boost.
> 
> ...


 Are you dialing more preload or removing some? Dialing more preload only exacerbates the problem. Back in the day, I use to do a lot more preload in the MM DV crush job... but learned along the way that there is a fine line between not enough (to hold full boost) and too much (where light loads are struggling to fully overcome the tension and release pressure). To get rid of your situation, remove as much preload as you can (but knowing that doing it also lowers the full boost sealing capacity). 

In my car, the only thing that allowed me to completely avoid this, was to run a pair of valves. In low vacuum, low load situations, I get twice the pressure bypassed, which makes it just enough to avoid what you're describing. The condition is unfortunately inherent in all performance valves capable of holding big pressure without leaking - so somewhere you have to compromise one or the other (or run a twin DV like I do. You will be able to bleed enough pressure at low vacuum but able to retain high clamping for full boost with zero leakage).


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## StateSideS3 (Apr 13, 2007)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Are you dialing more preload or removing some? Dialing more preload only exacerbates the problem. Back in the day, I use to do a lot more preload in the MM DV crush job... but learned along the way that there is a fine line between not enough (to hold full boost) and too much (where light loads are struggling to fully overcome the tension and release pressure). To get rid of your situation, remove as much preload as you can (but knowing that doing it also lowers the full boost sealing capacity).
> 
> In my car, the only thing that allowed me to completely avoid this, was to run a pair of valves. In low vacuum, low load situations, I get twice the pressure bypassed, which makes it just enough to avoid what you're describing. The condition is unfortunately inherent in all performance valves capable of holding big pressure without leaking - so somewhere you have to compromise one or the other (or run a twin DV like I do. You will be able to bleed enough pressure at low vacuum but able to retain high clamping for full boost with zero leakage).


 Are both your valves crushed to the same value or are they set differetly to hold different pressures?


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

1.8tipgls said:


> Are both your valves crushed to the same value or are they set differetly to hold different pressures?


 Crushed (aka preloaded) the same amount on both to be able to equally hold the operating pressure at WOT. The purpose is to retain high clamping capacity, while doubling the CFM bypassed (especially at low vacuum and low load). :beer:


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

I decided to paint my MM valve with the wrinkle black paint from VHT. I gotta say, Im really impressed. This stuff is awesome. But if you guys use it, resist the urge to mess with it too soon. This stuff takes FOREVER to dry.


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## bizad (Mar 22, 2009)

Sorry to bump this. 
I've emailed mcpii as I live outside of USA for purchasing&shipping options. 

I haven't received a response for almost a working week and just wondering what's the go?


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

bizad said:


> Sorry to bump this.
> I've emailed mcpii as I live outside of USA for purchasing&shipping options.
> 
> I haven't received a response for almost a working week and just wondering what's the go?


 PM coming your way! :beer:


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## Sayfer (Jul 30, 2012)

Great thread and many good info here :thumbup:
However i still did not found answer for on question that's bugging me .
Whats is actually wrong with OEM 710N ?
There are many well known ppl who swear by them ( Bagder5 for ex .) and 996 use them from factory .

Educate me please on that subject .
Thanks in adwance .


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## volksvrsex (Feb 8, 2004)

so i had a go at the madmax dv diy
i made 1" inlet and outlet for it to skip the adapters and to keep it in stock location
time will tell how it works out


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

volksvrsex said:


> ...i made 1" inlet and outlet for it to skip the adapters and to keep it in stock location
> time will tell how it works out...


Cool idea :thumbup:


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## bizad (Mar 22, 2009)

Max, check your PM box/email


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

bizad said:


> Max, check your PM box/email


Brian, PM/email coming you way shortly! :beer::beer:


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## bizad (Mar 22, 2009)

haven't received anything, can you please try again? PM/Email either is fine.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

bizad said:


> haven't received anything, can you please try again? PM/Email either is fine.


PMed and emailed Brian! :beer:


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## wheezzy (Feb 11, 2004)

volksvrsex said:


> so i had a go at the madmax dv diy
> i made 1" inlet and outlet for it to skip the adapters and to keep it in stock location
> time will tell how it works out


I was reading over this thread and was wondering if anyone would do this, lol. Nice!
How is it holding up so far?


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## hallkbrd (Apr 8, 2000)

volksvrsex said:


> so i had a go at the madmax dv diy
> i made 1" inlet and outlet for it to skip the adapters and to keep it in stock location
> time will tell how it works out


That is a huge amount of work you did there. I "wimped" out and just used reducing elbows to do much the same with less work.


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## Keybordem (Feb 22, 2004)

Instead of crushing the top in, could one push out the top 1mm or so to reduce the amount of vacuum needed? I've found a few places via google saying the flutter is normal, and others that say turbo is sustaining damage. I love the design, but I'm worried the 1.8 Ko3 can't produce the vacuum that valve was designed for on evos?

Just asking questions. Hope you can help.


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## jacobm (Aug 5, 2011)

Nice work switching the inlet/out let ports to the proper size. But it seems to me that one of the great things (among many) about the Mad Max is that it flows that much more air due to the bigger ports. Seems like it would be better to make the factory lines bigger rather than the Mad Max smaller.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Keybordem said:


> Instead of crushing the top in, could one push out the top 1mm or so to reduce the amount of vacuum needed? I've found a few places via google saying the flutter is normal, and others that say turbo is sustaining damage. I love the design, but I'm worried the 1.8 Ko3 can't produce the vacuum that valve was designed for on evos?
> 
> Just asking questions. Hope you can help.


No, the you can't push the top from the inside to reduce the preload. The top chamber is sealed by a bottom floor that can't be removed. BTW, the turbo used (K03, K04 or whatever) has nothing to do with the amount of vacuum generated, that's a factor of combustion chamber and bore/stroke design. Standard and healthy 1.8L will all produce about the same amount of vacuum regardless of what turbo used, that's pretty much a constant. 

If you're concerned about vacuum to operate the valve, run one without the preload/crush, make sure it's in push-orientation, and that your vacuum system is unrestricted (no N249 interference) and is leak-free. The few people that had "fluttering" concerns are either suffering from leaks, don't have clean signal to the DV, or mounted it in pull-orientation thinking it's a good thing. If a 1.8t can't dynamically generate 18 Hg of vacuum on throttle lift-off (although system pressure also aid in the valve operation), then you have bigger problem than whatever effect the valve potentially could have on your turbo. :beer:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

jacobm said:


> Nice work switching the inlet/out let ports to the proper size. But it seems to me that one of the great things (among many) about the Mad Max is that it flows that much more air due to the bigger ports. Seems like it would be better to make the factory lines bigger rather than the Mad Max smaller.


Yes and No! :laugh:

Yes, because one of the many advantages is the overall volume bypassed. And keeping the pressure/return source with constant higher flowing pipe diameter would be ideal. That's what I did with my car, I have 1.35" pressure source pipes going to both valves, and the return/bypass are also 1.35" going into a 1.75" recirculating pipe to a modified TIP port. Unfortunately, not everyone has the knowledge or are as involved to bother with all this. 

No, because the inlet/outlet piping ID is not the only factor in how much air is bypassed. The canister size is also a factor. The OEM valve is a baby compared to the Mitsu valve in canister size. When recirculating (diaphragm fully retracted), the bypassed air also has to go through the bottom chamber of the valve before exiting. The bigger in volume that chamber is, the less restriction there is, and the more air is able to flow through. That's the same reason the big 50 mm TIAL valves were so popular in big capacity turbo systems, their bottom chambers allowed a lot of air to move through unrestricted. :thumbup:


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## jacobm (Aug 5, 2011)

Good to know. Thanks for chiming in Max. Where can we all pick up a Mad Max DV now days? Im looking for another as after loaning mine to my brother he has to have one of his own. Cheers :beer: Oh and do you have any pics of your set up? Im trying to plan my relocation and would love to see what you've done.


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## max13b2 (Jul 24, 2007)

^^^ verdictmotorsports.com has 'em as well as MCPi.

Max, you have a email!


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

EDIT: Communication breakdown.


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## Jadmas (Jul 16, 2014)

*diverter-valve*

Thank you for this great tutorial! Thought I might share this website I came accross which I found very useful: http://www.directindustry.com/industrial-manufacturer/diverter-valve-79786.html


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## garomy (Jun 27, 2014)

Just installed my mad-max diverter valve, what a difference. My old dv was broken and open all the time making the intake noisy. This one only makes noise when it opens, sweet noise.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

^^^ Looking good garomy! :thumbup::thumbup:

That's an unusual looking TIP on what appears to be a stock KKK turbo, is that something custom?


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## garomy (Jun 27, 2014)

It's a forge tip, it was on the car when I buy it. Its 4 inch wide on the maf sensor side but it fits over the stock turbo. Don't know if is intended to be use on a TT. It was installed with a piece of pvc to the turbo but it burns up. This car was a Frankestein when I start to work on it, the pressure hose that is the intake of the dv, was bolted to the tip, and the dv pressure side was bolted to the intake side of the secondary air valve. It sounds like if I have 30 psi of bust, but there was no bust going into the intake because it was going to the tip back to the turbo.


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## Chakaa4 (Nov 17, 2014)

Where can I find these reducers locally? Any place you'd recommend? I already have the DV from an EVO IX just itchin to throw it on my b6 k04


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## Heart&TTsoul (Mar 23, 2014)

*Engine/Turbo Failure*

Hello I've heard that this valve is the best there is. However I use my car for daily driving use and had a couple questions for those of you who have more knowledge than me in this area. 
1. What happens long term with using a valve that audi/vw did not originally design for their specific platform, will my engine break? Will something blow up?
2. The stupid fast response time this supposedly has instead of my forge 007 will that cause certain parts to fail prematurely? There must be a reason it takes 3.5 seconds to get to full boost?
3. What kinds of stresses does this quick response cause? Will my turbo blow up? 
What is this MadMax's DV downfall I want to know. It cant be so good and not have any consequences being a Mitsubishi product used for Audi's. Thanks in advance


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## hallkbrd (Apr 8, 2000)

Heart&TTsoul said:


> Hello I've heard that this valve is the best there is. However I use my car for daily driving use and had a couple questions for those of you who have more knowledge than me in this area.
> 1. What happens long term with using a valve that audi/vw did not originally design for their specific platform, will my engine break? Will something blow up?
> 2. The stupid fast response time this supposedly has instead of my forge 007 will that cause certain parts to fail prematurely? There must be a reason it takes 3.5 seconds to get to full boost?
> 3. What kinds of stresses does this quick response cause? Will my turbo blow up?
> What is this MadMax's DV downfall I want to know. It cant be so good and not have any consequences being a Mitsubishi product used for Audi's. Thanks in advance


1. Nothing bad will happen. It just works...
2. Again - it just works as a DV should. No leaked boost, and fully open when it should be. Much better than a 007 (had one), or OEM (weak).
3. It is actually BETTER for your turbo. The turbo won't be trying to push against a closed throttle plate anymore with back-pressure waves hitting the blades.

The part doesn't know what car it's in. It's just a part, and especially modified - much better than anything for the money. But if you like playing with springs, re-greasing often, etc - you will be bored.

Bryan


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## Heart&TTsoul (Mar 23, 2014)

Thanks for the info Hallkbrd


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## Rhill2901 (Apr 19, 2017)

*APR Stage 3 + and diverter valve problems*

Hi,

I had an APR Stage 3+ added to 2017 VW Golf R and have discovered over time, the stock latest diverter valve in my opinion, is the best it gets. I have reluctantly decided not to try the forge valve since my experiments are costing me and once installed the seller won't take the return. Here is what I experienced:

GBV Valve, leaks boost right from the start. Could not hold pressure above stock.

CTS Turbo Diverter valve, stock spring holds 21 psi, and the red one holds 26 psi. I can get spike boosts higher, but they are very short. 

My original stock diverter valve didn't have the cage around the piston for some reason, and it kept falling apart inside the EFR turbo housing. Thank goodness it didn't get in the turbine.

I have ordered a replacement stock diverter and installed it, and alls well so far. Its going on 2 weeks, so fingers crossed. The stage 3+ kit gives me 34-37 peak boost on my P3 gauge, but the APR datalogging shows it to get mid 34 to low 35's. The difference between 26psi and 35 psi is dramatic. I like the APR stage 3, but thats not what this message thread is about.


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