# How do I do an oil change myself? (Includes TB 17-05-04, approved oils)



## gilesrulz (Nov 2, 2006)

*Does Anyone Have the Eos Bentley Manual?*

I'm coming up on my first oil change here shortly, and I haven't even been able to get the engine cover off.








I'm hampered by the fact that the bentley software only works on a PC, and there is no paper one available.








Can anyone make me a PDF of the relevant info so I can change my oil? Please! 
Thnx.
Giles 


_Modified by gilesrulz at 7:50 AM 11-27-2006_


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## ehdg eos (Sep 9, 2006)

*Re: Does Anyone Have the Eos Bentley Manual? (gilesrulz)*

Just out of curiousity why wouldn't you want the dealer to do this? Isn't it covered by the 4 years 50,000 mile warranty? Also is it worth doing yourself? Without some kind of documented proof of the oil changes your warranty might become null and void.


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## gilesrulz (Nov 2, 2006)

*Re: Does Anyone Have the Eos Bentley Manual? (ehdg eos)*

Oil changes are not covered under the warranty. (I assume you mean they would be free under the warranty.) 
It's worth doing it myself since I can save $35-75 and I don't have to drive over an hour each way to get it done.
All you need are receipts for the parts to satisfy any warranty questions.

As a side note I think it's important to know as much about your car as you can mechanically, both so you don't get ripped off by service departments, and so you can accurately describe any problems to a service department. Changing the oil in your car is a good start in the process of getting to know it.


_Modified by gilesrulz at 8:24 AM 11-27-2006_


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Does Anyone Have the Eos Bentley Manual? (gilesrulz)*

Hi Giles:
I don't have the Eos manual yet, so I can't make you a paper copy. But, I think you can purchase a 3-day web subscription to any of the VW manuals for $19 or some figure similar to that - might be worthwhile, it would give you a chance to browse the product and see what you think of it, and you could generate PDFs of procedures that you want to keep for future reference.
Michael


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## WolfsburgerMitFries (Jul 4, 2005)

*Re: Does Anyone Have the Eos Bentley Manual? (ehdg eos)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ehdg eos* »_Just out of curiousity why wouldn't you want the dealer to do this? Isn't it covered by the 4 years 50,000 mile warranty? Also is it worth doing yourself? Without some kind of documented proof of the oil changes your warranty might become null and void.

Your warrany does not become null and void if you do your own automotive maintenence, that's an old legal issue that was addressed years ago.
And why would you want your dealer to do it? So some $6 an hour bubba can overtorque your plastic skidplate and crack it? Overtorque and strip out your drain plug too? Oil changes don't normally go to the ASE master mechanics at the dealer, it goes to a low level technician.
My key concern is centered around the fact that in the format of a dealer service center, or an oil change store, there is simply not enough time to let the oil drain from the car. Sure, you can drain most of it in the 5 minutes they can spend on your car...but it really takes several hours (my prefernece is overnight) to let the oil drain, and they simply cannot spend that kind of time on you and your car.
Oil changes are simple, and you can make sure sure you get the correct parts and not some cheap subsitiute. And you can do better work (I would hope) than an anonymous guy who doesn't have a vested interest in looking after your car in the best possible manner.
I think VW lets you have 2 free oil changes when you buy a new car. I don't know that I would even use them.


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## gilesrulz (Nov 2, 2006)

*Re: Does Anyone Have the Eos Bentley Manual? (PanEuropean)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PanEuropean* »_But, I think you can purchase a 3-day web subscription to any of the VW manuals for $19 or some figure similar to that

I thought of that, but I don't have a PC, Macs are not supported, and they don't give any refunds, so if it doesn't work, I'm out $20 for nothing. That's why I figured I'd ask to see if anyone had it first, before I flushed my Jackson down the toilet.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Does Anyone Have the Eos Bentley Manual? (WolfsburgerMitFries)*

I don't think there is anything wrong with Giles wanting to do his own oil changes - hey, we buy cars to have fun with them, and that sometimes includes doing an oil change too. I have changed the oil on my car (under the supervision of the techs at my VW dealer), and it was an interesting process, although I don't think I would want to do it again.
But... I do want to speak up in favour of getting the simple VW service done at the VW dealer. I also own a 99 Golf that my wife sometimes uses. It is a very low mileage car (has not even hit 15,000 miles yet), and every year, I take it to the VW dealer for an oil change. It costs a bit more than taking it to a specialty drive-thru oil changing place, but I think it's worth it. The techs at the VW dealer check the whole car over while they are doing the oil change - look at the tires, brakes, stuff under the car, check to see if there are any technical bulletins out for the car, that kind of stuff. I don't think the shop foreman does the oil change (in fact, I know that the first year apprentice does the oil change), but sometimes that can be an advantage - the apprentice works under the supervision of the licensed mechanic, and the apprentice can afford to take the time to look things over carefully.
I think that the staff at the VW dealer do have a vested interest in looking after the car in the best possible manner - that interest being that if they look after you well, you will buy another car there. I'm on my 8th consecutive car from the same VW dealer, which I think shows that if you pick a good dealer and stick with them, both sides benefit.
Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Does Anyone Have the Eos Bentley Manual? (gilesrulz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gilesrulz* »_ ...I don't have a PC, Macs are not supported...

Hi Giles:
Sorry about that, I thought that the web subscriptions were platform-independent, but on closer inspection, I see that you are correct - the web subscription only works with the Windows OS.
Give me a day or two to see what I can find. You don't need to change the oil in the next 24 hours, do you?








Michael


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## gilesrulz (Nov 2, 2006)

*Re: Does Anyone Have the Eos Bentley Manual? (PanEuropean)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PanEuropean* »_You don't need to change the oil in the next 24 hours, do you? 

Nah I have 600 miles yet, which should take me through December, but I would certainly appreciate any info you could get!

_Quote, originally posted by *PanEuropean* »_The techs at the VW dealer check the whole car over while they are doing the oil change - look at the tires, brakes, stuff under the car, check to see if there are any technical bulletins out for the car, that kind of stuff.

I actually do all the recommended checks at each oil change (hey if an apprentice can do it, so can I) The only things I can't do at the moment is check for codes and service any technical bulletins. Of course when the major services come up, such as the 40k with the transmission fluid/filter change, I'll take it to a dealer. But most mantainance the car requires, I can do just as well as a service tech. The stuff is not rocket science, and if you can follow directions, have a little patience, and don't mind getting your hands dirty, you can do most anything they can.
Giles

_Modified by gilesrulz at 4:37 PM 11-27-2006_


_Modified by gilesrulz at 4:39 PM 11-27-2006_


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Does Anyone Have the Eos Bentley Manual? (gilesrulz)*

Hi Giles:
I went to my Swiss VW dealer today to ask for information about how to change the oil on a 2.0 liter engine. The problem is this: There are about half a dozen different versions of 2.0 liter engines offered for installation in Eos for all the different world markets, and I don't know what kind of engine you have.
I did look at the oil change instructions for one engine model (BVY), and some of the key points are as follows:
*1)* If you are changing the filter, it is important to remove the filter first, before you drain the oil from the sump.
*2)* If you drain the oil by gravity, as opposed to sucking it out with an oil extraction tool (sucking it out is the preferred method), then you need to replace the entire oil plug on the pan with a new one, to ensure that the plug seals properly.
My suggestion is that you go to your VW dealer and ask them to print out the 'how to change the oil' instructions for you. If you bring your owner manual with you, they can look up the instructions for your exact VIN, and you will be sure to get the correct instructions for your engine type. You can also pick up an oil plug, filter, and if you want, oil that meets the correct VW specification for your engine while you are there.
Some VW owner manuals include instructions for changing the oil. I have not seen an Eos manual, but perhaps check the table of contents or the index for information related to oil changing, and see if anything is there.
Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Does Anyone Have the Eos Bentley Manual? (PanEuropean)*

Giles:
If you change the oil yourself, be sure that you use new oil that meets the VW specification for the engine you have in your car. You can find more information about exactly what VW (not SAE) oil specification you have to use by looking in the owner manual.
Be aware that it is *critically important* that you use oil that meets the exact specification that VW publishes for your car. In another thread, you mentioned that you use 87 octane fuel, even though the fuel specification is higher than 87 octane. Be that as it may, you must not use an oil that does not meet the VW oil specification, or you will encounter serious problems down the road. 
I have attached a PDF file that lists oils made by many different companies that meet the VW specification. However, I don't know exactly what the oil specification for your engine is - you will have to determine that.
Michael


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## gilesrulz (Nov 2, 2006)

*Re: Does Anyone Have the Eos Bentley Manual? (PanEuropean)*

Thanks for your efforts, but part of the problem is that the closest dealer is over an hour away, so getting the instructions from them would sort of defeat the purpose. I have also checked the manual thoroughly, and there are no instructions for changing the oil, or even a picture showing where the oil filter is located. It actually appears that compared to my Jetta, there is even less information about the mechanical aspects of the car than ever before included in the manual.
Also I am fully away of the difference between using a lower octane fuel than recommended and and an inappropriate oil for the engine, the latter being potentially catastrophic.
As a PS, the appropriate oil spec for the 2.0L Turbo in the US Eos is 502.00. I'm pretty sure that is the same spec for all their gasoline engines, while the diesels use the 505.01 spec.


_Modified by gilesrulz at 9:56 AM 11-28-2006_


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Does Anyone Have the Eos Bentley Manual? (gilesrulz)*

Let me know what your engine code is (it is a three letter code that you will find on your build sticker) and I'll see what I can do. Not sure if the Swiss dealers have instructions for the NAR (North American Region) engines or not, but I can try.
Here's a post that explains where to look to find the engine code: Understanding Production Codes & Build Stickers.
Michael


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## gilesrulz (Nov 2, 2006)

*Re: Does Anyone Have the Eos Bentley Manual? (PanEuropean)*

The Engine is a BPY. But I found this link that has the info.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2928995


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## gilesrulz (Nov 2, 2006)

*Re: Does Anyone Have the Eos Bentley Manual? (gilesrulz)*

I Changed the oil in my Eos today. The instructions are basically that of the linked PDF above, with a few minor changes. Two things I would say is that if you are a beginner, give yourself several hours to get the job done so you can take your time. Also if you have access to a lift or similar, it will make your life A LOT easier. You'll see why below.
Tools:
1/2 Socket + Ratchet
T25 Torx Driver
Channel Lock Pliers or 36mm Socket
Adjustable Wrench or Vacuum Evacuator
Supplies:
4.5 Quarts of 502.00 oil (I used Mobil1 0W40)
Fram CH9911 or similar oil Filter (be forewarned, I had to special order it even though several cars VW/Audi makes use this same engine and filter)
14 x 1.5 x 22 Replacement oil plug with washer (if you don't use the evacuator)
The first step is to get some room to work, so put the car up on ramps or a lift (preferable). Pull the emergency break, put it in park, and chock the wheels. I'm not taking the fall for you crushing yourself dang it.
Next, open the hood and loosen the oil filler cap, leaving it covering the hole so no dirt gets in. Just make sure air can get through.
Then get your T25, and your half inch socket, and undo the Ten(!) Torx screws and Eight(!!) half inch bolts holding the metal skid plate onto the car. This is where all that room a lift provides will keep you from cussing up a storm and cracking a few knuckles.
After you've carefully put the screws and bolts away for safe keeping and put your skid plate out of the way, you'll see the oil filter on the front side of the car. Unscrew the end-cap (attached by a tether), slide your drain pan underneath and the use your torx driver to push the orange nipple upwards so the oil will drain out. Or you could spend $80 on the (not so) glorified funnel called the T40057 Oil drain adapter. Either way. You don't even have to hold the nipple up, so why you'd spend that kind of money on something like that I will never understand. It has $.02 of hose and maybe $.25 of brass in it. Aaaanywho...
If you're using an evacuator, skip the next step...
After the oil has drained from the filter, move your pan rearward about a foot and a half and towards the passenger side slightly. There, when you face the front of the car, you'll see the oil plug. Loosen it with your adjustable wrench, and undo it by hand. Since you're replacing the oil plug, you can just let it fall into the drain pan as the oil starts to drain. Be aware that the oil will have a tendancy to shoot out 4-5 inches rearward, so you'll have to make allowances for your drain pan location.
This step applies to both methods...
Then go back to the oil filter, and loosen it with your channel locks or the 36mm Socket. If you've let it drain thoroughly, it won't make a mess when you unscrew it. Then take the bottom half of the filter to the trash, dump out the filter material, and pull out the rubber o-ring inside the plastic housing. I also like to wipe out the filter housing with a clean rag to get all the bits that may be in there out, although I don't think this step is strictly necessary. Replace the new filter and o-ring, make sure the orange oil drain for the lower filter housing has re-seated correctly in the bottom of the housing by moving it until the springs push it back into place, and then relax for a minute. You're half way done! 
If you're using an evacuator, skip the next step...
After all the oil has drained from the oil pan, put your new drain plug in, and tighten securely, without over tightening it (that would be BAD).
If you're draining via the oil plug skip the next step....
If you're using the evacuator, it's time to suck some oil. Follow the directions for your evacuator, but most use the dipstick tube to remove the oil from the oil pan. After you've sucked all there is to suck, relax! You're half-way done!
The following steps apply to both methods...
Now replace the oil filter/housing. You'll have to press firmly to seat the new filter onto the top part of the housing, then tighten it hand-tight. There is no need to tighten with the wrench or socket, in fact I recommend against using them. Hand tight is all that is necessary, you will feel the o-ring compress slightly before you can no longer turn it by hand.
Remove the oil filler cap completely now, and fill with 4.5 quarts of oil. After filling, replace the cap, start the engine, let it idle, and check under the car for leaks at the drain plug and oil filter. If there are none, turn off the car, replace the tethered cap for the oil filter, and replace your Eight bolts and 10 torx screws that hold up the skid-plate.
Finally move the car off the ramps/lift to a level area. Give the car some time to let all the oil drain into the pan, check the oil level with the dipstick, and add oil as necessary. This is also where I check the book for all the other things that need to be done during the current Service Interval. The last step is to reset the service indicator following these instructions: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2929207 I also like to check the oil level once a day for the next few days to confirm that everything is ok. Of course I think you should do that no matter who changes your oil.
Dispose of your waste responsibly and revel in the fact that you just saved yourself a bunch of money, and you didn't even have to switch to Geico.


_Modified by gilesrulz at 7:48 AM 12-14-2006_


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## owr084 (Nov 15, 2004)

*Re: Does Anyone Have the Eos Bentley Manual? (gilesrulz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gilesrulz* »_
Then get your T25, and your half inch socket, and undo the Ten(!) Torx screws and Eight(!!) half inch bolts holding the metal skid plate onto the car. This is where all that room a lift provides will keep you from cussing up a storm and cracking a few knuckles.


Did I read that right? VW actually put a METAL skidplate on the car and not some flimsy piece of plastic like they do on Jettas, Bugs, Golfs and Passats? I wonder how that got by the beancounters?
Seriously though, does the skidplate look anything like this:









This is an OEM skidplate for a MkV chassis Jettas and Golfs. I am planning to go to Worldimpex in January to see if it fits an Eos. But, if the Eos already has one, bonus!










_Modified by owr084 at 10:39 AM 12-14-2006_


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## BigFoot-74205 (Jan 26, 2006)

^ The image doesn't show. It says "Image only for use on TDICLUB pages by club members".


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## owr084 (Nov 15, 2004)

*Re: (BigFoot-74205)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BigFoot-74205* »_^ The image doesn't show. It says "Image only for use on TDICLUB pages by club members".

Can you see it now? I relinked to worldimpex. It didn't occur to me that the tdiclub would restrict the image...


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## gilesrulz (Nov 2, 2006)

*Re: Does Anyone Have the Eos Bentley Manual? (owr084)*

No, I'd say it was a fair amount smaller than that one. It is unpainted, and appears to be stainless.


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## owr084 (Nov 15, 2004)

*Re: Does Anyone Have the Eos Bentley Manual? (gilesrulz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gilesrulz* »_No, I'd say it was a fair amount smaller than that one. It is unpainted, and appears to be stainless.

The skidplate in the picture is also stainless. You just can't tell from the way the picture was taken. It also has the sound deadening panel which you can't see from the bottom...


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Does Anyone Have the Eos Bentley Manual? (owr084)*


_Quote, originally posted by *owr084* »_VW actually put a METAL skidplate on the car and not some flimsy piece of plastic...

Regardless of what material that *sound deadening pan* is made of, its purpose in life is NOT to serve as a skidplate.
Its primary purpose is to control and restrict airflow through the engine area, to enable the engine and engine compartment to quickly reach and then maintain optimum operating temperature.
Its secondary purpose is to control airflow underneath the vehicle, to lower the coefficient of drag of the vehicle and thus increase fuel economy.
Its third purpose is to dampen sound, so that the vehicle operates quietly. On a convertible car, it may also serve some small role in providing additional stiffness to the vehicle structure.
It is *not *intended to protect the bottom of the vehicle from damage arising from impacts with objects below the vehicle, although I suspect it will help to deflect small objects (pop cans, road alligators, stuff like that) which the driver might unintentionally run over.
It *ain't *a skidplate... don't call it that.
My Phaeton has a whole bunch of similar covers on the bottom of the car to control temperatures, smooth airflow, and dampen sound (see picture below). A Phaeton is not an off-road vehicle...








Michael
*Underside of VW (Phaeton)*


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## gilesrulz (Nov 2, 2006)

*Re: Does Anyone Have the Eos Bentley Manual? (PanEuropean)*

I was only using skid plate as a term most people might be familiar with to indicate the general location and type of part. While this plate is certainly thick enough to protect the underside of the engine from most objects in the roadway (I'd say it was ~ 1/8 inch thick), it certainly won't take the weight of the car, so I agree it is definitely not an actual skid plate. However, it is also most certainly not a 'sound deadening pan', as it is made of metal and has no sound deadening materials attached to it, nor any accoustic decoupling devices. 
Whatever you want to call it is fine with me, but certainly sound deadening pan is no more accurate than skid plate. What about *Thingie That's Under The Engine Which Keeps You From Easily Changing Your Oil*? No?


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## Former Texan (Dec 15, 2006)

*Re: Does Anyone Have the Eos Bentley Manual? (gilesrulz)*

These oil change instructions are great, given the complexity of the Eos engine and it's various "protective parts". However, could somebody please explain why a new oil drain plug would be needed (as listed in the list of supplies needed to do an oil change)? I have been changing the oil on my older cars for years and have never needed to use a new oil plug.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Does Anyone Have the Eos Bentley Manual? (Former Texan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Former Texan* »_... could somebody please explain why a new oil drain plug would be needed...

Could be one of several reasons - perhaps the plug and the washer are sold as a single part (this is the case with some transmission drain plugs), or, could be that the drain plug seals by deformation of the threads once the plug has been torqued to the correct value. It could also be because the threads on the drain plug are pre-coated with a threadlocker compound that becomes active once the fastener is torqued to the specified value, and this threadlocker compound cannot easily be renewed once the fastener has been used. In other words, it is a 'single use' fastener.
Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Does Anyone Have the Eos Bentley Manual? (gilesrulz)*

Giles:
Is the part shown in red in the illustration below the part that you removed? It appears to have a hole in it - I am wondering if that hole is there to allow access to the oil drain plug or the filter.
Be patient with me - I don't have an Eos of my own to refer to...








Michael
*Underbody components*


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## gilesrulz (Nov 2, 2006)

*Re: Does Anyone Have the Eos Bentley Manual? (PanEuropean)*

The plug and washer are one part, that's why they want you to replace the whole thing. It's pretty wasteful, if you ask me. But I'm sure the engineers had their reasons. One of which is probably that the prefered method of extraction is with an evacuator.


_Modified by gilesrulz at 6:19 AM 12-15-2006_


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## gilesrulz (Nov 2, 2006)

*Re: Does Anyone Have the Eos Bentley Manual? (PanEuropean)*

That is the part, although I don't recall the larger of the two holes being there. The smaller hole was directly under a bolt, but I didn't pay attention what the bolt was. I was losing the light when I changed my oil, so I didn't take much time to look around.
In any case I have included a picture that sort of explains the positions of various aspects of the car/pan. The oil plug, actually faces the rear of the car, not the ground like one might think.


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## solarflare (Mar 28, 2007)

*Re: Does Anyone Have the Eos Bentley Manual? (gilesrulz)*

Excellent write up! I changed the oil in my Eos for the first time this weekend. I was expecting the job to be messier then with cars with a normal style oil filter but found it to be less messy! The only difficult part is removing the bottom engine cover but even this is not a problem if you run the car up on ramps. I bought a set of Rhino ramps from a local auto parts store for about $30. They are low profile and plastic so can easily be hung on a garage or shed wall. This made the job a breeze. The only thing I might recommend is the use of a torque wrench for tightening the oil filter housing, which is plastic, and the oil drain bolt. The filter housing is tightened to 25Nm and the drain bolt to 30 Nm.


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## just-jean (Sep 14, 2006)

*Panzer Plate /Chastity protection for the Goddess*


































































































........the quickie at the Quickielube cant be so quick if they have to get thru the EOS land mine protection system......no flimsy "rip it off" plastic here...... 8 bolts and 8 screws saving her for only the best

















_Modified by just-jean at 12:49 AM 8-9-2007_


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## darien (Oct 28, 2006)

*Re: Panzer Plate /Chastity protection for the Goddess (just-jean)*

Nice, very detailed picture of oil changing. Nah, I probably won't do, rather paid someone doing it for me.


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## owr084 (Nov 15, 2004)

*Re: Panzer Plate /Chastity protection for the Goddess (just-jean)*

What size socket is that? 5K is approaching for me. Is that the stock plate or aftermarket? I ask because Panzer Plate is the name of an aftermarket skidplate. The Eos plate is better than the usual flimsy piece of plastic VW uses. But, I would still rather have an aftermarket plate like I do on my Passat.
Darien - 
If you do take it to an "Iffy" Lube, Make sure they use the correct VW spec oil and put all 16 fasteners back on securely and in the right place.


_Modified by owr084 at 6:42 AM 8-9-2007_


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## solarflare (Mar 28, 2007)

*Re: Panzer Plate /Chastity protection for the Goddess (just-jean)*

Great post! Man, pictures are worth 1000 words. This thread should be added to the other oil change thread in the TOC! Are those Rhino ramps? Ramps are a must for the Eos DIYer. I use to change the oil in my Passat without ramps and really was a hassle getting all those, not so easy to work with, fasteners off when removing the plastic cover. I figured with all the bolts for the Eos that ramps would be a necessity. 
What type of oil is that? My first oil change I bought the stuff from the dealer because I could not find 5W40 or the oil filter at the local auto parts store. The dealer uses Castrol Syntec 5W40. Since then I've discovered Castrol Snytec 5W40 is now available at Advance Auto Parts and was on sale last month for $4.50/qt so I stocked up







But they still don't stock the oil filter.


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## just-jean (Sep 14, 2006)

*Re: Panzer Plate /Chastity protection for the Goddess (darien)*


_Quote, originally posted by *darien* »_Nice, very detailed picture of oil changing. Nah, I probably won't do, rather paid someone doing it for me.









thanks......my brother and I traded cars for the day....I confessed to chirping the tires on his Golf TDI and he confessed to sliding my greasy goodyears around a corner........my oil change was FREE...came with complimentary pictures too







for warranty purposes of course









_Quote, originally posted by *owr084* »_What size socket is that? 5K is approaching for me. Is that the stock plate or aftermarket? I ask because Panzer Plate is the name of an aftermarket skidplate. The Eos plate is better than the usual flimsy piece of plastic VW uses. But, I would still rather have an aftermarket plate like I do on my Passat.
Darien - 
_Modified by owr084 at 6:42 AM 8-9-2007_

LOL i guess I have to take a picture of the "things you need"
36mm for the big one, 13mm for the plate bolts
it is the stock pan cover......

_Quote, originally posted by *solarflare* »_Great post! Man, pictures are worth 1000 words. This thread should be added to the other oil change thread in the TOC! Are those Rhino ramps? Ramps are a must for the Eos DIYer. I use to change the oil in my Passat without ramps and really was a hassle getting all those, not so easy to work with, fasteners off when removing the plastic cover. I figured with all the bolts for the Eos that ramps would be a necessity. 
What type of oil is that? My first oil change I bought the stuff from the dealer because I could not find 5W40 or the oil filter at the local auto parts store. The dealer uses Castrol Syntec 5W40. Since then I've discovered Castrol Snytec 5W40 is now available at Advance Auto Parts and was on sale last month for $4.50/qt so I stocked up







But they still don't stock the oil filter.









yes the ramps are Rhino.
I'm laughing at the oil question







.......I stole it.....only kidding....no one has the 5W40.....my brother had me looking from NJ to NH for 0W40 mobil 1 with no luck either...... my dad bought this oil for his Passat TDI at the dealer up in NH-- it is 5W30. It is both 505 and 502 rated......I do need to replace it for him on my next road trip.


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## just-jean (Sep 14, 2006)

*Re: Panzer Plate /Chastity protection for the Goddess (solarflare)*

what you need......








Rhino ramps x2
13 mm socket for plate bolts
torx T25 for plate screws
philips screwdriver to poke the orange thing
36mm for oil filter
19mm for drain plug
1 Steuck Filtereinnsatz #06D 115 562 (comes with the ring)


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## solarflare (Mar 28, 2007)

*Re: Panzer Plate /Chastity protection for the Goddess (just-jean)*

Did you reuse the drain bolt? It is recommended to replace that too?


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## just-jean (Sep 14, 2006)

*Re: Panzer Plate /Chastity protection for the Goddess (solarflare)*


_Quote, originally posted by *solarflare* »_Did you reuse the drain bolt? It is recommended to replace that too?


yes it was reused.....


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## mark_d_drake (Aug 17, 2006)

*Re: Does Anyone Have the Eos Bentley Manual? (gilesrulz)*

Merged Jean's thread with the original thread on this subject...


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## owr084 (Nov 15, 2004)

*Re: Panzer Plate /Chastity protection for the Goddess (solarflare)*


_Quote, originally posted by *solarflare* »_Did you reuse the drain bolt? It is recommended to replace that too?


From the Eos Bentley Shop Manual (in a red box with red lettering to emphasize the point):

_Quote »_Warning:
If engine oil is drained and not extracted using old oil extraction unit, replace the oil drain plug. This prevents leaks.
The oil drain plug is equipped with a permanent seal, therefore the oil drain plug must always be replaced.


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## solarflare (Mar 28, 2007)

*Re: Panzer Plate /Chastity protection for the Goddess (owr084)*

In all honesty you can probably reuse the bolt many times without a leak. I replaced the bolt when I changed the oil in my Eos but I did notice the old bolt washer still looked perfect flat, with no indentions. I suspect it could be reused without any problems as long as it's not over torqued.


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## cb391 (Mar 12, 2006)

*Re: Panzer Plate /Chastity protection for the Goddess (solarflare)*

I wonder if the dealers change the oil plug when they change your oil.


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## vweosdriver (Oct 30, 2006)

*Re: Panzer Plate /Chastity protection for the Goddess (cb391)*

Mine didn't.


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## iGen3 (Mar 21, 2002)

*Re: Panzer Plate /Chastity protection for the Goddess (just-jean)*


_Quote, originally posted by *just-jean* »_
I'm laughing at the oil question







.......I stole it.....only kidding....no one has the 5W40.....my brother had me looking from NJ to NH for 0W40 mobil 1 with no luck either...... my dad bought this oil for his Passat TDI at the dealer up in NH-- it is 5W30. It is both 505 and 502 rated......I do need to replace it for him on my next road trip.

...and Dad gets his 0W40 M1 out here in PA at your other Brother's, at Autozone, PepBoyz or WallMart. let me know if you need any..
The washer is captive on the plug threads. It appears to be fairly sturdy, not like the soft copper (OEM) ones for the older cars that take a set against the steel oilpans. I bought a bag of 'em when I got my Mann filters online, but I only replace them every other change or so. Just rolled 40K on my 06 GLI with 2.0t, and aside from what might be imaginary boost weakness after oy upgrade, doing just fine (DV appears fine, haven't checked the PCV yet) . My plastic undercover has cool turbulo-aerodynamic golfball dimples.


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## evolvingpowercat (Dec 10, 2007)

*Self oil change - my comments*

HI, all I did my first self oil change at 10.4 K Miles and thanks to all who contributed to this how to! My comment: Get the 36 MM Socket, whoever put the oil filter housing cover back on at the VW dealer for the 5K oil change made it too tight to get off without using the socket. Since the cover is plastic and has weak thin plastic walls at the bottom due to the threaded hole in the middle of it. I found I was deforming the plastic rather than turning the housing when I first tried to use a open end wrench or vise grips as suggested in this thread.
Sears stocks the 36 MM socket and it is only $8. A lot less hassle than breaking the housing and having to pay $$ to VW parts to get a replacement.
I was planning to replace the drain plug washer and reuse the drain plug like I used to do on my Cabrio but when I took the plug out and realized this was not possible I just reused the plug. It did not leak this time. I think I will get a plug along with the filter for my next oil change time. I am thinking I will replace the plug every other oil change. 
Comments?


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## ECS Tuning (Oct 2, 2006)

*Re: Self oil change - my comments (evolvingpowercat)*

We have a selection of EOS oil service kits and 40k service kits available. The kits include oil, filter and a drain plug. We also have a selection of tools to make the job easier (filter housing socket, filter drain tool, etc...) The kits can be found here for the EOS 2.0T (3.2 kits also available):
*EOS 2.0T Oil Service Kits >>> Click HERE !!!*


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## Dommer (Jan 10, 2000)

*Re: Self oil change - my comments (ECS Tuning - Sales)*

Does ECS sell a similar kit for the VR6 EOS (or is it identical)? Is the change procedure identical? Finally, where can you get a drain plug and washer other than at the dealer?


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## blue4max (Feb 17, 2008)

*Re: Does Anyone Have the Eos Bentley Manual? (PanEuropean)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PanEuropean* »_Giles:
If you change the oil yourself, be sure that you use new oil that meets the VW specification for the engine you have in your car. You can find more information about exactly what VW (not SAE) oil specification you have to use by looking in the owner manual.
Be aware that it is *critically important* that you use oil that meets the exact specification that VW publishes for your car. In another thread, you mentioned that you use 87 octane fuel, even though the fuel specification is higher than 87 octane. Be that as it may, you must not use an oil that does not meet the VW oil specification, or you will encounter serious problems down the road. 


A bit off topic is the VW magazine called "DasAuto". I find it interesting to read. I don't remember if VW sent it to me automatically or I had to ask for it. I think it comes out quarterly or whenever VW decides to print an issue. FYI, if you're not getting this magazine, according to the title page, you can call 1-800-drive vw and ask them to send it to you.
Anyway, in the latest issue in regards to "Do I have to use premium fuel in my Volkswagen model?" it states Volkswagen specifies nothing less that 91 octane for its engines, except the 2.5L and TDI engines. Volkswagen engineers have extensively tested the level of fuel that performs best in Volkswagen engines. Using a lower-rated octane in your vehicle may result premature wear and failure of vital components, as well as a decline in performance".
They go on to say that these vehicles require the use of synthetic oil. 
I've been following both of these rules on my Eos as I want to keep it running the way it was designed to perform. From time to time, I've consider using the mid grade fuel (89), but it only saves 10 cents a gallon or about 1/3rd of a penny a mile at 30 MPG. The use of regular therefore would only save 2/3rds of a penny a mile. If I did my math correctly, that comes out to $66 extra for 10,000 miles.
Hardly worth it to mess around for that scratch, but if every penny counts, its a different matter. 
We just got rid of a '99 Accura that required 91 octane. Every once in a while IF we were on a road trip, we would go with regular, but for stop and go driving it always drank the 91 grade. When we sold it, there was NO indication that the occasional use of 87 octane hurt the engine.

_Modified by blue4max at 6:40 PM 1-4-2009_


_Modified by blue4max at 6:48 PM 1-4-2009_


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## just4fun (Oct 29, 2006)

*Re: Does Anyone Have the Eos Bentley Manual? (blue4max)*

The octane debate has been discussed numerous times in the past.
I do find it interesting how often various individual printed materials from the same source (in this instance VW) often do not compliment one another.
I haven't seen the _DasAuto_ article, but apparently it suggests that using octane less than 91 can result in damage, whereas the Owners Manual states that 91 octane is *recommended*, while 87 octane or higher is *required*. But there is no suggestion of possible damage unless you are using octane ratings lower than 87, or certain blended fuels. (actually the OM refers to a sticker on the fuel door, where it recommends 91 octane)
I'm not disagreeing with blue4max, I also exclusively use only 91 octane in our Eos. Just pointing out the discrepancy between the two information sources. Both from VW.
*FROM THE 2007 CANADIAN EOS OWNERS MANUAL*








Kevin




_Modified by just4fun at 4:53 PM 1-4-2009_


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## Andy P (Jan 6, 2007)

*Re: Does Anyone Have the Eos Bentley Manual? (just4fun)*

anyone know if the eos skid plate will fit the gti?


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