# A1 ABA Swap Wiring Help



## DrugsMakeMeCool (Jun 19, 2007)

I just finished installing my OBD-I 2.0 in my '85 Scirocco. All the cooling, fueling, and mechanical stuff has been hooked up and now I'm just doing the wiring.
I have a CE2 fuseblock and interior harness from a 91 Jetta and the engine harness from the 95 GTi donor car. 
I decided to splice the exiting rear harness wiring into the K, L, and M connectors on the CE2 panel, so far I spliced the green/black wire from the CE1 harness to the red/yellow wire on the CE2 plug for fuel pump power and the brown wires all spliced together running to the stock Scirocco ground location on the side of the fusebox hanger. I figure the rest of the interior wiring can wait until the motor runs.
I have the F, G1, G2, H1, H2, J, and S connectors plugged in to the fuseblock. I have the thick red connector running from Y/03 to the battery positive and the brown ground connector running from Z2 to the battery negative.
Inside the engine bay I have the entire engine harness before the big black connector hooked up. All the other connectors in the engine bay are hooked up, besides the ones that I can't use like the VSS. I have a MK3 ignition coil hooked up as well as a MK3 starter.
I converted the ignition housing and switch over to the CE2 versions and modified it to work with my existing steering column.
Now, when I try to crank the car over theres nothing. Do I need the fuseblock from a MK3 to make everything work? I know there are some relays that aren't on the MK2 CE2 fuseblock so that could be an issue.







There's also a few wires that are cut just before the big black connector that were like that when I got the harness.
School me please.


_Modified by DrugsMakeMeCool at 7:25 PM 5-26-2009_


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: A1 ABA Swap Wiring Help (DrugsMakeMeCool)*

fuse in thick red from f1 to bypass alarm. is there a relay in pos 3?


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## DrugsMakeMeCool (Jun 19, 2007)

*Re: A1 ABA Swap Wiring Help (bonesaw)*

There is no place to put a fuse in the thick red from F/01, it has been cut and spliced to a thick red/black wire which I believe goes directly to the starter.
Position 3 has a relay with the number 32 on the front.
I neglected to mention that this motor was in a Mk2 Jetta before I bought it so it's entirely possible that some of the harness has been modified by the PO.
Pics:


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: A1 ABA Swap Wiring Help (DrugsMakeMeCool)*

looks good. need an 18 in pos 4.


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## DrugsMakeMeCool (Jun 19, 2007)

*Re: A1 ABA Swap Wiring Help (bonesaw)*

Alright, got the 18 in pos 4 now. Turned the key and nothing.
These are the wires that are not currently connected to anything: 








This red wire that runs to a black connector and this gray wire that runs to a white connector. Both of the wires run off of connector L.








This yellow wire that runs to a black connector. This wire runs from connector J.








This brown connector with a yellow wire and a gray wire.








This yellow connector with a red/brown wire, a brown wire, and a yellow/black wire.








This green connector with a green wire and a blue wire.








And these two connectors, one is red with a red/yellow wire and the other one is blue with a blue/white wire.
Where do these go?


_Modified by DrugsMakeMeCool at 4:13 PM 5-27-2009_


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: A1 ABA Swap Wiring Help (DrugsMakeMeCool)*

brown 2 pin is obd port. single blue to W1. single Red to constant power at 30-30b jump. everytghing else not needed.


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## DrugsMakeMeCool (Jun 19, 2007)

*FV-QR*

I see. I just stopped by to check out a friends Mk2 with ABA swap, his wiring has the main fusebox power running to Y/04 with the red/yellow wire spliced to a connector on Y/03. Should I do this? Or just run it to the 30-30b jump?


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (DrugsMakeMeCool)*

you could. mk3 and passats have a nice jumper that goes in 30-30b and accepts those types of connectors. no splicing.


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## DrugsMakeMeCool (Jun 19, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Well I hooked up everything as you said and the fusebox definitely has power now, I can hear the relays clicking when I turn the key. Didn't start to crank over though, could be because the relay I got today was from a Cabriolet and I read that only the Mk3 relays will allow the car to crank over.
Gonna grab those tomorrow and see if it starts. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Thanks a lot for your help bonesaw, a







for you.


_Modified by DrugsMakeMeCool at 7:45 PM 5-27-2009_


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (DrugsMakeMeCool)*

there might be clutch interlock that needs to be bypassed. power going to a relay plugs in up top. and long red wires with green connector need to be connected togehter. if there is a plug on F1 it needs a fuse to complete the circuit.


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## DrugsMakeMeCool (Jun 19, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Borrowed the relays from my friends ABA Mk2, no start. I'll check for that clutch interlock now.


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## DrugsMakeMeCool (Jun 19, 2007)

*FV-QR*

I didn't see anything that looked like what you described. There is no green connector anywhere. I'm not sure if it matters but only the relays in pos 3 and 4 click when I turn the key.


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (DrugsMakeMeCool)*

ok ecu is coming on then. is there a relay off the ign harness? what car did it come from?


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## DrugsMakeMeCool (Jun 19, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Came from a 91 Jetta. It does have a relay coming off of it.
Pic:










_Modified by DrugsMakeMeCool at 2:54 PM 5-28-2009_


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (DrugsMakeMeCool)*

connect that brown/blue to ground. itll work.


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## DrugsMakeMeCool (Jun 19, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Alright, I cut the brown/blue wire where it connects to the fuseblock and ran it directly to ground, leaving the end in the fuseblock cut and not hooked up to anything. Turn the key and I can hear it clicking but it doesn't turn over, I'm thinking the problem is with the two wires that are broken just before the big black engine connector. What's the best way to remedy this? Should I just find it on the other side and run a wire around the connector to re-connect them?


_Modified by DrugsMakeMeCool at 12:11 PM 5-29-2009_


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## triple5soul (Nov 30, 2006)

id say give that a shot


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## DrugsMakeMeCool (Jun 19, 2007)

*Re: (triple5soul)*

Gotta bring this back to life. Still can't get this to start. Fixed the broken wires in the bay by bypassing the big black connector. When I turn the key, it clicks but it doesn't turn over. The battery is fine, and all the wiring is hooked up how I listed earlier in the thread. What's stopping this from starting?







I went through Dan J Reed's Mk3 no crank diagnosis page and everything was fine there, I didn't try to jumper the starter but I tested it before I put it in and I know it works. Why won't it crank?


_Modified by DrugsMakeMeCool at 1:58 PM 8-9-2009_


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## vatti (Oct 23, 2006)

*no start*

I ran a wire from H1 and connected it to my mk3 starter wire and then connected it to my solenoid. It now cranks with the key. Try this.










_Modified by vatti at 6:16 PM 8-9-2009_


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## c-had (Oct 19, 2008)

*FV-QR*

green plug with two wires at bottom of picture need to be connected together to bypass the clutch safety switch


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## DrugsMakeMeCool (Jun 19, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Well I don't have the connector for clutch safety switch as I really only have the engine harness, fuel pump, and ignition hooked up but I believe the problem is that there is something stuck in the transmission because I cant even turn the engine by hand and the starter wants to crank but just can't seem to. I'm going to drop the trans when I get back next week and I'll know for sure.


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