# Engine fault in VCDS (Phaeton V6 3.0 TDI 2007)



## wouterjansen60 (Aug 27, 2011)

*Engine fault found in VCDS (Phaeton V6 3.0 TDI 2007)*

Good evening all,

My car is basically just driving fine, however occasionally i did noticed (when cold) a rare hickup in accelorator response from standstil. Today i made a scan on VCDS, and found this engine fault, what could it be? The car is officially and recenly maintained by VW dealer. Oh dear, i am worried already 

Regards,
Wouter


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Wouter,

You have my sympathies - this is "actuator" territory, like the ones on the turbos which have caused me a problem over the last year!

1. It is intermittent
2. It occurred on your scan at startup, while the battery voltage was not yet 13.6V
3. It says that the swirl flap motor on Bank #2 has not reported itself to be in the low RPM position

The swirl flaps adjust the air intake manifold resonance to provide a torque boost at different engine RPM, low, medium or high by improving the fuel-air mixing and inlet pressure.


*SSP_350 has more info*










Ross-Tech have a page on the DTC:
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17426/P1018/004120

Audi have issued a TPI (TPI 2016504) on the flap/motor system which I can't find, but which might be available on erwin.audi.de or there might be a VW version on erwin.volkswagen.de


Regards,
Chris


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## wouterjansen60 (Aug 27, 2011)

*Intake Manifold Runner (Bank 2): Lower Limit not reached*

Hi Chris, 

Thanks a lot for your reply, at least now i have some directions to search for. I did checked at both banks the movements and linkages, sofar no weird things as all seems working fine manually. It might be the motor or less plausible the wiring/connector/fuse.

Here is what i found on a Audi forum, so it appears to be a adaption problem ( due to wear) as my fault is pretty much the same. Its seems wear is the problem and that the whole manifold intake flap housing incl. motor need replacement :banghead:

86% Dutycycle is a maximum defined limit for this unit, while approx. 2% margin is allowed. 88,8% is above the limit and can't be adjusted.... As last resort i could try with a little bit of pressure levering the motor ball joint by about 2mm upwards. A picture will be hosted later.

Cheers, 
wouter




As found in an other forum:
============
I found in the manual that the % error is indicative of the problem type.

If 8% is logged it indicates an electrical component error.
If 12% is logged = feedback error from "e-regulator" or the motor

These 2 need a motor replacement

if 88% is logged = adjustment range problem which is checked during startup!!
Furthermore it says it could be free play in the actuator rod (no.. mine is pretty good no slop)

Or stiffness of the adjuster.. err depends how stiff is considered too stiff, but I WD40'd it and it worked.. 3 times in a row!! So I did the other side for good measure.

So to me that sounds like on the check at start up, if it draws to much current (because of stiffness) it might well throw the same code. Or it just didn't quite make the position.. Maybe only by a fraction..

Anyway, check what the percentage says and that will give you a good indication


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## wouterjansen60 (Aug 27, 2011)

Here might be the problem of the inlet manifolt actuator, a very common problem;

http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=2GpsQlZYki4&desktop_uri=/watch?v=2GpsQlZYki4&gl=NL

Cheers,
Wouter


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## EnglishPhaeton (Dec 6, 2010)

wouterjansen60 said:


> Here might be the problem of the inlet manifolt actuator, a very common problem;
> 
> http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=2GpsQlZYki4&desktop_uri=/watch?v=2GpsQlZYki4&gl=NL
> 
> ...



Hi Wouter,

if the part needs replacing (hopefully not) then there are a couple for sale (NEW) in eBay.co.uk at a good saving.

Assuming of course that you are out of warranty.

Stu


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## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

Hi Wouter,
As a preventive measure, I tend to spray once in a while a silicon base lubricant on the ball heads of the actuator linkages.
Cheers.

Gabriel


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## wouterjansen60 (Aug 27, 2011)

*Problem solved!*

Hi Gabriel,

This is exactely what i did this afternoon during lunchtime, as just the idea of a engine fault is annoying. And guess what, fault is gone after lubricating the pushrods and the ballheads at both banks with some WD40. I am a happy man again, as a replacement ( as advised in manual and SSP 350) the whole unit is extremely expensive for this plastic butterfly flap housing incl. motor . Fault did not come back after clearing fault and measured values are again between 21% and 82% dutycycle. 

Thanks all for your support and suggestions.

Here the advise as decribed in SSP350:
The intake manifold flap motors must only be renewed completely together with the intake manifold lower section. Please observe the notes in the workshop manual! 

Cheers,

Wouter


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## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

Hello again Wouter,
Brilliant!!! I am glad to hear that the fault is gone. 
However, let me insist on the silicon based lubricant as the silicon composition is the best for not metallic parts. You can use it the same way as WD 40 anyway.
Cheers.

Gabriel


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## wouterjansen60 (Aug 27, 2011)

*Manifold V6 TDI problem (exhaust workshop MIL)*



wouterjansen60 said:


> Hi Gabriel,
> 
> This is exactely what i did this afternoon during lunchtime, as just the idea of a engine fault is annoying. And guess what, fault is gone after lubricating the pushrods and the ballheads at both banks with some WD40. I am a happy man again, as a replacement ( as advised in manual and SSP 350) the whole unit is extremely expensive for this plastic butterfly flap housing incl. motor . Fault did not come back after clearing fault and measured values are again between 21% and 82% dutycycle.
> 
> ...


The problem unfortunately striked again ... I know it is the worn out plastic manifoldinlet or the worn linkage and its connection. Its common that the butterfly flaps baerings worn out as all is fitted in just plastic. I get every day now a exhaust workshop fault, and hate to reset it on a dayly base ( after approx. 10 starting cycles). Anyway, i will first start to replace the linkage on bank 2 (left bank/driver side mainland Europe) and bought it for 26 Euros incl. shipping out of the UK. A complete new intake bank with motor, linkage, butterflys as advised by the manual cost a fortune. Here is a link for others with a V6 TDI, we all wll get there one day . Not sure yet wether i need a special vagcom to adapt the butterfly motor but i pretty sure it will be as the tolerances are just 2%.

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=130845541014&index=1&nav=SEARCH&nid=14545191749

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=320946324492&index=9&nav=SEARCH&nid=22406395674

Cheers,
Wouter


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## cata1569 (Jun 25, 2012)

Last summer I had the same problem.
I changed the one on the right code "059129712BE" with a new one and it cost me 450 euro with included mounting. It took almost an hour to replace it and I guarantee 2 years.

cata


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## wouterjansen60 (Aug 27, 2011)

cata1569 said:


> Last summer I had the same problem.
> I changed the one on the right code "059129712BE" with a new one and it cost me 450 euro with included mounting. It took almost an hour to replace it and I guarantee 2 years.
> 
> cata


Hi Cata,
Was that incl. Motor or just the plastic housing with butterfly flaps? Did you need to adapt the motor? Was a gasket needed or included?
Thanks, 
W


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## cata1569 (Jun 25, 2012)

http://www.pieseautomasini.ro/Piese...13-Clapeta-galerie-admisie-dr-3-0-TDI-Touareg

http://www.vandpiese.ro/produse/piese-motor-vw-audi-seat-skoda/galerie-admisie-vw-audi

http://www.pieseautomasini.ro/fotky8483/fotov/_ps_413Clapeta-galerie-admisie-dreapta.jpg

Everything you see in the image changed, everything was included. It took less than 1 hour, cost 450 euro and did another diagnostic test to be okay. You can see the price, 1800ron ie 400 euro or 1540ron ie 350 euro in the second link. I hope you understand what I wrote, my English is pretty poor. If you have any questions I will answer with pleasure.

cata


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## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

*059198212 repair set.*

Hi,
About a month ago the warning engine light showed up in the dash. I ran VCDS and it showed the following fault:

1 Fault Found:

008224 - Intake Manifold Flap Position Sensor (Bank 2) 
P2020 - 001 - Implausible Signal - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 2
Mileage: 199413 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2017.06.03
Time: 22:59:00

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 399 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Voltage: 10.64 V
Lambda: 0.0 %
Lambda: 0.0 %
Voltage: 0.540 V


Readiness: 1 1 0 0 0 

Upon inspection of the swirl flap actuators I noticed that the left side one was stuck in the uppermost position. I manually pushed the upper lever arm down, cleared the fault and it worked fine until last week that the fault came back.
That time I examined the right and left actuators, the pushrods and the lever arms on both sides. What I discovered was that the ball heads of both lower lever arms were badly worn out, to the pooint that the right pushrod would come out just by pressing it gently.
As the actuators seemed to be in sound condition, I deciced to purchase two repair kits suplied by VW, #059198212. It contained the lower lever arm, a redesigned pushrod which features knuckle type ends and a clip.
Fitting the left side kit was very easy. I just unfastened the actuator to had some extra room for my hands. Removed the rod and unclipped the lower lever arm pulling the clip upwards. The assembling process of the new parts was just the opposite.
However, the right side was a pain, as the clip that secures the lever arm against the lower intake manifold had to be pushed downwards, rather than upwards, and the rearmost edge of the right bank head was in the very way.... That meant that I had to remove the upper intake manifold (the cast aluminium part) in order to be able to unfasten and move the lower intake manifold towards the firewall to clear that edge. Subsequent to that, the disassembly and assembly of the parts was identical to the left hand side.
As the upper intake manifold inner wall was covered with soot, I cleaned it and cleared the EGR port as it was almost fully obstructed. The lower intake manifolds had a layer of soot as well, but not to a big extent, so I only vacuum cleaned them to remove the loose dirt. Then I reasembled all the bits and bobs, fired the engine which took several seconds as I had to undo two fuel pipes to remove the upper intake manifold and cleared the fault codes.
I have driven my Phaeton for about 700km since the repair and so far so good. Touch wood. 

Gabriel


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Thank for the update, Gabriel.

It is interesting to hear about the almost-blocked EGR port. That is the kind of thing that can cause mystery symptoms.

I hate to think what goes on in the V10! :what:

Chris


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## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

My pleasure Chris.
The interesting thing was that the pipe that connects the EGR cooler to the intake manifold was clean. It was just the EGR port inside the intake manifold that was almost blocked.

Gabriel


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## Dangerrous (Sep 14, 2014)

*carbon deposits*

I feel your pain, and the relief- no more mil's
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ust-workshop-quot-soot-or-carbon-deposits-etc
D


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