# 2004 Pre-Owned Phaeton trunk lid releases but does not lift automatically



## Bouviers (Jan 1, 2009)

I just purchased my 2004 Phaeton from my somewhat local NON-Phaeton dealer, that obtained it from another VW dealer. When I visited the dealership to see the vehicle the sales manager that obtained the car was demonstrating the various features including the fact that the trunk/deck lid opened and rose automatically after pushing the control button on the drivers door. Within a week of purchase and at my residence I attempted to operate the trunk using the driver door button and was surprised that only the latch mechanism released. The lid did nothing more. The only way I could access the trunk was to manually lift the lid. I contacted the dealership, explained the problem and took the car in for repair. Though the dealer has a Tech that was schooled on Phaetons and Touaregs, the response, and explanation was that they were going to replace the hinges. I'm not an expert but how could hinges that functioned properly a week earlier become a problem a week later. The '04's did not have a button on or near the rear latch that could be re-programmed at least on this car. Has anyone else had the same or similar problem and suggestions? I'm thinking that they are stalling for time. The dealer is only giving a 30 day/1000 mile warranty and time is running out for me. During a previous conversation, before I signed the papers, the Tech told me that the 04's were all junk! Was he right?
Thanks in advance.


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## mhoepfin (Dec 20, 2007)

04's are not junk, and in fact, the 04-06 are all similar.
It may be that the hinges need some lubrication. There is a thread here (just recent) that discusses how to do this.
You need to get your car to a dealer that is experienced working on Phaetons, otherwise they could easily make any issues worse by guessing, and not having the proper experience to do the work.


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## Reflect (Apr 4, 2007)

*Re: 2004 Pre-Owned Phaeton trunk lid releases but does not lift automatically (Bouviers)*

take it to VW dealer, and for problems like this isnt warranty by your state laws on used car 90 days?
04 are great I have one no problems


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## Bouviers (Jan 1, 2009)

*Re: (mhoepfin)*

Thanks for your input. I just contacted a former Phaeton dealer and spoke with their tech. He was very cordial and is willing (of course) to look into the matter. I'll not be covered by any warranty so it will be my 1st (already) out-of-pocket.
Hopefully my last. We'll see, but at least it will be a 2nd opinion which may prove to be quite helpful.
Glad to hear you are happy with your '04. Did you purchase it new?


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## Bouviers (Jan 1, 2009)

*Re: 2004 Pre-Owned Phaeton trunk lid releases but does not lift automatically (Reflect)*

Ricky,
I just telephoned the dealership where I purchased the Phaeton and they only offer 30 day/1000 mile 'dealer' warranty. The sales rep said that he believed that a 90 day might apply to Certified Pre-Owned vehicles and that would come from VW and not a dealer per se.
I'll attempt to get the Phaeton dealership this week weather permitting.
Sorry if I confused some of my responses with others on this forum. It's my first time doing this type of thing.


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## mhoepfin (Dec 20, 2007)

*Re: 2004 Pre-Owned Phaeton trunk lid releases but does not lift automatically (Bouviers)*

Hi Bouviers,
How many miles are on your Phaeton? You should look into an extended warranty from Chris (username 10yearvet) on this forum. You won't find lower prices and he offers the top shelf VW Real Driver Platinum warranty.
Anyway, most of us would advise not owning the Phaeton out of warranty as most repairs are pretty costly.
Personally, my Phaeton has 55k miles, I've had it for a year and bought it with 42k. In that time I have not had any issues other than minor items related to the interior/exterior trim that were covered by the remainder of factory warranty that I had.
Most importantly for you is to take it to a dealer experienced working on Phaetons. If not, I can pretty much guarantee you will not be satisfied, even on something so seemingly simple as a trunk hinge.
Good luck and welcome!


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## Bouviers (Jan 1, 2009)

*Re: 2004 Pre-Owned Phaeton trunk lid releases but does not lift automatically (mhoepfin)*

mhoepfin,
Mine had 18,662 at the previous dealer located near Pittsburgh, Pa.
The car was delivered/driven to Hagerstown, Maryland. My delivery paperwork shows 18,810. The previous dealership had the vehicle for over a year and it apparently was driven by one of the management types there for approx. 3500 miles while in their possession. I am an extremely persnickety person when it comes to my vehicles and this car has more scratches than I can visually and mentally grasp. It's difficult for me to comprehend how some can mistreat a car, any car, but especially a car with as much class as a Phaeton. The weather is so miserable that I'll have no place to attempt to begin to detail it. Neither of my garages is heated and this baby is in dire need of of some TLC!
I considered the Platinum Plus coverage but after doing some Google searches settled on DirectWarranty. Still awaiting a 'claim' card that company rep. indicates I should be receiving any day. It cost more, claims a bit more coverage, but I'm skeptical about these companies either way. It's my understanding that both companies require a 30 day and 1,000 mile qualifier before becoming effective.
Daniel


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## mhoepfin (Dec 20, 2007)

Mileage sounds great.
Not sure on the other warranties, but looks like you are well covered.
I agree, it's amazing to think that someone can have a car like this and not take care of it.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: 2004 Pre-Owned Phaeton trunk lid releases but does not lift automatically (Bouviers)*

Hello Daniel:
Welcome to the forum.
There are some discussions that cover how to resolve minor problems with the trunk at some of the links posted on the Phaeton Forum 'Table of Contents' (FAQ by Category).
The following links, all of which are listed on the Phaeton Forum 'Table of Contents' (FAQ by Category), may be of particular interest to you:
How to open the Trunk Lid (electrically, using the pushbutton on the trunk lid logo)
....How to open the Trunk Lid (manually, using the key)
....How to reset the power trunk lid when it gets out of synch
....Trunk will not open... (essential reading, this explains the valet lockout button)
....Trunk will not close...
....Trunk opens by itself...

Michael


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## Reflect (Apr 4, 2007)

*Re: 2004 Pre-Owned Phaeton trunk lid releases but does not lift automatically (PanEuropean)*

I will say be careful with this company over the internet, the VW warranty from chris is cheap and covers a lot and no deductible for less than 2,000 with your miles. do it as soon as possible.


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## Bouviers (Jan 1, 2009)

*Re: 2004 Pre-Owned Phaeton trunk lid releases but does not lift automatically (PanEuropean)*

Thank you Michael. 
I looked through the posts but as yet have not found a simple solution. None of the 'home remedy' suggestions has been successful so it looks as though I'll travel some distance to get a 2nd opinion. Thanks for all the ideas, help and suggestions I've read thus far.
Daniel


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## Bouviers (Jan 1, 2009)

*Re: 2004 Pre-Owned Phaeton trunk lid releases but does not lift automatically (Reflect)*

Excuse me, but could you explain a bit more regarding this post? Don't mean to appear 'thick' but just need some clarification. Thanks.
Daniel


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: 2004 Pre-Owned Phaeton trunk lid releases but does not lift automatically (Bouviers)*

Daniel, what exactly is the problem you are having with the power trunk? Is it that the trunk lid is not raising or lowering? 
It sounds like the latch portion of the mechanism is working correctly - in other words, when you press the key fob, or press the middle of the VW logo on the trunk lid, the latch releases. Is this correct? When the latch does release, does it then fold up (kind of like a Swiss Army knife) and retract into the latch enclosure in the trunk lid?
BTW, your tech is not off-base when he speaks about replacing trunk hinges. The hydraulic mechanism that raises and lowers the lid is integral with the hinges on either side of the vehicle. He won't actually need to replace the aluminum hinges, he will only need to replace the hydraulic actuators that are on the other side of the hinges - presuming, of course, that there has been no mechanical failure of the 'cog' that extends from the hinge into the hydraulic actuator.
Michael


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## Bouviers (Jan 1, 2009)

*Re: 2004 Pre-Owned Phaeton trunk lid releases but does not lift automatically (PanEuropean)*

Michael,
First, my apology for not responding to your questions on this issue prior to today. I got called away for other matters and the time just kept slipping away. I'll attempt to address each of your questions/comments.
1) Yes! the latch releases, the lid lifts about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch and no higher.
The dealer suspects the hinges are binding, not allowing the lid to rise.
2) This vehicle apparently does not have a movable VW logo on the deck lid.
There is a hidden key slot and an interior door release button but neither
do more than simply allowing the deck lid latch to release. The latch is stationary and does not move nor does it appear that it's designed to do so.
I took the vehicle to an 'authorized' Phaeton dealer seeking a second opinion.
After about a 1-1/2 to 2 hour wait while the tech stated that he removed the gas struts to warm them, stated that he too came to the conclusion that the hinges were to blame. I often get suspicious when someone, anyone, disappears with a vehicle, to a location away from my eyesight and returns
with a conclusion that I have no way of disputing since the result was the same as the selling dealers verdict. If both are correct that's fine.
Though I fully expected to pay for the 2nd opinion I was informed that there would be no charge for the service. It was a very nice gesture, the personnel were cordial, polite, and seemingly above board and hopefully my fears/suspicions may be unfounded. I will post a followup on the forum as I'm to take the car to the 'selling' dealer tomorrow, 04 Feb unless plans change.
Daniel


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## mhoepfin (Dec 20, 2007)

Sounds like you have the "standard" trunk, which does exactly as you describe. You pop the trunk and it only opens about 1/2 inch and you pull it open the rest of the way.
When closing, feel for a hidden handle and pull down half way, then use the VW logo to push it closed.
It takes a little effort to open, a lot of effort to close. The german way


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## Bouviers (Jan 1, 2009)

*Re: (mhoepfin)*

Thanks you for your input and I might concur with assessment were it not for the fact that the trunk lid did open/lift without physical effort on my part the first and only time I saw it do so at the dealership. The Sales manager was showing me how neat it was that it rose at the push of a button (the drivers door). It hasn't worked since with either the door button or the remote door lock/unlock. They had to re-program the remote keys because only 2 of the 3 that came with the car would lock/unlock the doors. I have wondered if there was any correlation between that and the trunk lid since that was done following the trunk lid demonstration earlier in the day.
I take it in Thursday, the 5th unless I hear otherwise from the dealer to hopefully rectify the problem. Two other issues have occurred since the deck/trunk prob. that they will address as well. Thanks for your response.
Daniel


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (Bouviers)*

Hi Daniel:
There still seems to be a bit of uncertainty about whether your vehicle is equipped with a power operated trunk lid (one that fully raises and fully closes using hydraulic power), or whether you have a standard trunk lid that has a power latch / unlatch function, but not power assisted raising and lowering.
The easiest way to confirm this is to look at the trunk hinges, if they are aluminum castings, the trunk lid is fully powered, if they are steel stampings that are painted the same colour as the vehicle body, it is power latch / unlatch only.
If you are having difficulties with the standard trunk lid 'binding' and being stiff when it is manually raised and lowered, please review the information in this post: Trunk Lid Requires Excessive Effort to Close (4E2 or 4E8, not the power operated one). Note that the vehicle pictured in that thread has a standard (power latching / unlatching only) trunk.
Michael


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## W126C (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*









Hi Daniel,
If you have the rectangular button shown on the right side in the picture, then you have the power lift boot. If not you don't.
Good luck.
Regards,
Brent


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## derrickonline (Feb 9, 2008)

*Re: (W126C)*

"all '04 are junk"? That must explain all the issues I've had with my 2004.


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## W126C (Jan 27, 2005)

*Re: (derrickonline)*


_Quote, originally posted by *derrickonline* »_"all '04 are junk"? That must explain all the issues I've had with my 2004.









I hope this was some attempt at a facetious gesture. I thought quote from the, so called Phaeton TECH, were feelings of the uneducated and frustrated individual. We all here know that is an untruth. Hell, you want to talk *JUNK*? I own an '04 T-reg. And no, I've had zero problems with it. Maybe I'm just blessed.







Or maybe I've got a good Phaeton/T-reg tech to keep me going and will communicate with me.
Regards,
Brent


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## VWGlf00GL (Feb 14, 2005)

*Re: (derrickonline)*


_Quote, originally posted by *derrickonline* »_"all '04 are junk"? That must explain all the issues I've had with my 2004.









Hey Derrick!
I've been through hell and back with my Phoebe. But hey, I still lover her to death.. 
My partner doesn't understand the love I have for her. She's in the shop every week or every other week it seems. But, I have a REALLY good tech who takes care of me and my Phaeton.. Chris G, if your on VTex, you know your the "Master Phaeton Tech".
His shop sees Phaetons from all over the Bay Area.. There was an 05 in a few days ago with 33,000 miles and white 05, and a W12 (all in one week). He really takes pride in his work and loves the Phaetons to death.. 
Cheer up buddy, you have a one-of-a-kind car.. You have a very nice Phaeton.. You got the bling wheels, nice painted valences. I must admit, I am a little jealous. hee hee..
Smile, it will get better..


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## Bouviers (Jan 1, 2009)

*Re: (W126C)*

No button ! 
Thanks Brent.
Daniel


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## Jaiden Kaine (Feb 26, 2015)

*2004 Volkswagen Phaeton's trunk issue.*

Hi I recently purchased a 2004 VW Phaeton. The trunk doesn't open or close with the button on the drivers door or the automatic square button on the trunk. The seller told me that it used to work fine but he had taken it in for a service on an unrelated issue and the tech had physically put his hands on the top of the trunk and pushed it down manually. He said ever since that happen; he's had to physically stick the key in to the lock and pop it that way to open it. Not to mention strain to close it again (it takes a lot of pressure). Do you think the issue is that the actuators on both sides of the aluminum hinges were broken or malfunctioned ever since the trunk was forced or something else?

In addition the drivers side ac vent closest to the drivers mirror doesn't slide open and close itself when I turn the ac or the heat on like the other 2 do on the dashboard. What do you think the issue might be?


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

The ac vent is the easiest to diagnose, it's almost certainly a stuck motor. If you search the forum you'll find a thread with detailed instructions for dismantling and fixing/replacing. It's not simple, but the good news is it's a lot easier to do the side ones than the centre one.

The trunk is a little more tricky. Forcing the trunk open or closed shouldn't cause a permanent problem. Occasionally, the trunk will get "stuck", usually if you don't hold the button long enough so it just releases but doesn't lift. When that happens, pushing the square button once you've fully opened it is sufficient to fix it. Since that isn't working, though, it sounds as if you have a bigger issue. With it closed, try opening it with the buttons but make sure you hold the button (remote or driver's door) for 2 or 3 seconds. If it doesn't work, try opening it fully (lift it manually, it'll be hard but it will open), then press the square button numerous times, and also try the button in the centre of the VW emblem on the trunk lid. If all that fails, have a look in the FAQ under adaptation and see if there's a more official adaptation for the trunk.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

I know am just a noob, but my trunk did not work either when I bought my Phaeton. I had to open it with my key and pry it open which was very hard against the hydraulics. I also had to force it closed and sometimes the open trunk symbol would stay illuminated on my display even if I slammed the trunk as hard as I could.

I would like to preface this by saying I had to get a VAG-COM so I could set readiness to pass emissions in UT. My left battery was kinda low when I got the car and it seemed to have triggered a bunch of faults.

Anywho, I scanned it with VCDS and cleared all of the DTCs which cleared up the readiness problem and also made my trunk start working again. It just popped the lid an inch or so using my remote or the door button. After it started popping electrically I "adapted" it as per this forum by prying it all the way open so it was vertical (almost straight up and as far as I could pry it). After that, my trunk lid has opened perfectly by using the remote or the door button. It also closes perfectly using the rectangular button. I have to keep pressure on the close button for a second or so before it moves. 

Also make sure the valet button is not pushed. I don't have a valet key, but the valet button disables my trunk lid anyway. 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1813829

About the vent on the driver's side, please forgive me if you have already checked this: 

I noticed that the center vent opens if one side is open. For instance, if the driver's side is open, the center is open and if the passenger's side is open the center vent is open. (So the "other two" vents work but not the one you want.) I found this because I turned the temperature all the way down on the driver's side, but my left vent wasn't opening and it had worked before. I finally noticed that the left vent was not selected on the climate control screen. 

Good luck. 

Eric


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## kisskool (Dec 21, 2014)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> I know am just a noob, but my trunk did not work either when I bought my Phaeton. I had to open it with my key and pry it open which was very hard against the hydraulics. I also had to force it closed and sometimes the open trunk symbol would stay illuminated on my display even if I slammed the trunk as hard as I could.
> 
> I would like to preface this by saying I had to get a VAG-COM so I could set readiness to pass emissions in UT. My left battery was kinda low when I got the car and it seemed to have triggered a bunch of faults.
> 
> ...


Hello Eric,

I'm very interested in the way you solved your trunk issue,because I have exactly the same problem.
can you describe exactly what you did ? I have a VCDS cable with vag 12.12 FR.

Best regards
Alexandre from France


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## ianpheaton (Mar 1, 2015)

*newbie - pheaton boot lid problem*



kisskool said:


> Hello Eric,
> 
> I'm very interested in the way you solved your trunk issue,because I have exactly the same problem.
> can you describe exactly what you did ? I have a VCDS cable with vag 12.12 FR.
> ...



hi

I have a 2008 v6 tdi - great car ! (40,000 mile in 16 months - 1 battery, 6 tyres (pot holes) - 32mpg - nearly 1000hrs of driving !

but 

the boot lid has slowly decaded from fully working to no movement (30A fuse is OK)

first the vw badge microswitch did not open the boot, but the drivers door switch (and remote) did, then the remote no longer did (I changed the remote battery , doors lock and unlock ok so why not the boot lid ?)

then the drivers door stops

(my car has key less start)

my 'domestic' battery was decaying, so £220 later, a new battery - so reset of the long term trip counts (and I guess other things)

the ACC has slowly decayed (also) local VW garage says the sensor is showing strong external Radio Frequancy interference - they reset, it worked for a while OK, then after 10 minutes of starting, it showed the ACC fault symbol, now it does not clear at restart (or battery remove and reinstall) - I read that the ACC is prone to connector corrosion, but I cant discover which connector, where they are located and how to 'clean'


Also - the 'check bulb' symbol is one, eventually concluded it is flagging that BOTH reversing lights are out (bulbs are probably good)

all may point to break in one or more of the wires in the Boot lid wiring ?

I have an 'Ebay special' OBD2 reader and have down loaded the VCDS lite product, but the current download does not have a listing for Pheaton - VCDS say I need to buy the FULL VCDS product to read the pheaton settings.


Help

what do memebers think is going on here ?

I suspect the boot lid wiring, probably an earth (which could account why several services have issues) - harness looks good, the outer is not damaged

I suspect I need to reset the controllers - but how (diconnecting and reconnecting the baterries (even in the correct order) does not seem to make any change

should I buy the 'Full' VCDS - will this move things on ?

I appreciate any help

Ian

Oh just to make things worse - there is a judder at 1400 rpm pulling gently at modest throttle settings, best advice is this is the clucth on the Torque convertor, at local specialist will fit a 'new' one for £1000, i am about to book the fitting - ouch !

but even with these issues this is still a great car !


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## Dangerrous (Sep 14, 2014)

I'm sure there's a local P owner with vag com, I'm in Essex. Bit of a trip really.

I've got the torque clutch slip shudder, but don't despair. If like mine the sealed for life attitude has been taken there's a very good chance that the fluid has reached the end of it's life. I'm about to carry out an interim fluid change (4ltr) on my car once the weather has broken, I'll report back on the change if any. 
There's a great article on the new type of torque converters, it gives details on the longevity and associated problems with the clutch, all seem to be down to the fluid degradation. Good trans fluid is essential for the ZF box and it has to be the correct grade lifeguard6 pre software upgrade, lifeguard8 post upgrade 
Luckily I'm also going to take the engine and box out for a major service ie. seals, egr valve, timing chain tensioners and full oil and filter change for the box, I'll change the torque converter if necessary as well. 
D

http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/203


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

kisskool said:


> Hello Eric,
> 
> I'm very interested in the way you solved your trunk issue,because I have exactly the same problem.
> can you describe exactly what you did ? I have a VCDS cable with vag 12.12 FR.
> ...


Hi Alexandre,

I have VCDS 14.10.1 with the Hex-USB+CAN interface. 

I bought my Phaeton from eBay and it actually stated in the listing that the trunk (boot) wasn't working. Anyhow, I had to use my key to open the trunk. I checked the fuse which was good but I replaced it anyway. I was worried about all of the things that could go wrong and started looking on eBay for used hydraulics, hinges, trunk lift struts, controllers, etc, etc..

As I mentioned, I needed to reset the faults to get the readiness set anyway. (Driving set the readiness, but I had to reset the codes first.) 

If I remember correctly, I scanned the car and reset each module with a fault individually. I then reset all DTCs. After that, I tried the trunk button on my remote and it popped. After that, I just pried it open the rest of the way by hand to "adapt" it. At first, it was kind of cranky, but it has worked brilliantly since then. In fact, I closed the trunk one time when I had the spare tire (tyre) cover open and drove away thinking it was funny that the "trunk open" symbol was illuminated on my instrument panel. Then I remembered what I did, said "DUH", pulled over and pried the lid open all the way by hand. I closed the spare tire cover and closed the trunk using the rectangular switch. It still works perfectly. 

Good luck, Alexandre

Eric


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## kisskool (Dec 21, 2014)

Hello Eric,


thank you very much, now I just need to find enough time to ork on my "beast" 

I will keep you posted as soon as I did it.

Best

Alexandre


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

kisskool said:


> Hello Eric,
> 
> 
> thank you very much, now I just need to find enough time to ork on my "beast"
> ...


Good luck, Alexandre.

Eric


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Jaiden Kaine said:


> Hi I recently purchased a 2004 VW Phaeton. The trunk doesn't open or close with the button on the drivers door or the automatic square button on the trunk. The seller told me that it used to work fine but he had taken it in for a service on an unrelated issue and the tech had physically put his hands on the top of the trunk and pushed it down manually. He said ever since that happen; he's had to physically stick the key in to the lock and pop it that way to open it. Not to mention strain to close it again (it takes a lot of pressure). Do you think the issue is that the actuators on both sides of the aluminum hinges were broken or malfunctioned ever since the trunk was forced or something else?
> 
> In addition the drivers side ac vent closest to the drivers mirror doesn't slide open and close itself when I turn the ac or the heat on like the other 2 do on the dashboard. What do you think the issue might be?


Jaiden,

Did you ever get the trunk or the vent working? If so, what fixed it?

Eric


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

kisskool said:


> Hello Eric,
> 
> 
> thank you very much, now I just need to find enough time to ork on my "beast"
> ...


Alexandre,

Did you get yours working?

Eric


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## kisskool (Dec 21, 2014)

Hello Eric,

Last week-end I removed the cover inside the trunk lid and most of the wires of the harness are broken.

It seems they have been repaired few years ago, but now, I think that the harness must be replaced.

I need to find this part on the internet, and follow the DIY guide I found here.

Also, the latch must be replaced 

Do you, or another member know how does it cost to do this by an official dealer ? (harness and latch replacement)

Best regards,
Alexandre


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## Dangerrous (Sep 14, 2014)

have you looked at my post on the boot latch fault, I have made up my own loom, it's not hard. It's a pity you're not local, I've got plenty of spare cable and I'm off this week doing the engine.
Darren


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## kisskool (Dec 21, 2014)

Hello,

I juste read your posts carefuly.

I noticed that you removed everything from the module to the latch is that right ?

How do you manage the wires inside the rectangle black box ? 

Is it possible for you to add more picture to your topic ?

also, where can I find the new wires ?

Best,
Alexandre


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

kisskool said:


> Hello Eric,
> 
> Last week-end I removed the cover inside the trunk lid and most of the wires of the harness are broken.
> 
> ...


Sorry, Alexandre. 

There is a "sectioned harness" that is mentioned in Technical Bulletin 97-04-07. It's Part Number 3D1 970 O53 AH (without trunk lid closing button - $349.53 suggested retail from the US VW eStore) or
3D1 970 053 AJ (with trunk closing button $349.53 also). ECS "only" wants $265.08 for either harness.


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/3D1_970_053_AJ/

The technical bulletin says to check with your dealer for the latest part numbers and PartsBase shows a different part number (item 14):

http://www.partsbase.org/vw/phaeton...lar-part-section-wiring-harness-for-rear-lid/

3D1970053AC or 3D1970053AM or 3D1970053AN

It's more expensive. 

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/3D1970053AN/


I have no idea what an authorized dealer would charge to splice in the new harness.

By the latch do you mean the motor that pulls the lid down?

Good luck Alexandre. 

Eric


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## kisskool (Dec 21, 2014)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> Sorry, Alexandre.
> 
> There is a "sectioned harness" that is mentioned in Technical Bulletin 97-04-07. It's Part Number 3D1 970 O53 AH (without trunk lid closing button - $349.53 suggested retail from the US VW eStore) or
> 3D1 970 053 AJ (with trunk closing button $349.53 also). ECS "only" wants $265.08 for either harness.
> ...


thank you Eric,

Another question for you : it seems that this part is only the first 50 cm from the module to the "ferule", am I right ? 

I guess all the wires need to be replaced as I found some broken before the "ferule", inside the black box, and after it.

Alexandre


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

kisskool said:


> thank you Eric,
> 
> Another question for you : it seems that this part is only the first 50 cm from the module to the "ferule", am I right ?
> 
> ...


I have never seen it in person. In the technical bulletin it looks long, in the PartsBase diagram it looks short. Do you have the Bentley manual? 

By the latch, do you mean # 17 or # 18 or # 21 or # 22 in this diagram?

http://parts.vw.com/parts/2004/Volkswagen/Phaeton/W12?siteid=9&vehicleid=174663&diagram=9235710

Eric


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## kisskool (Dec 21, 2014)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> I have never seen it in person. In the technical bulletin it looks long, in the PartsBase diagram it looks short. Do you have the Bentley manual?
> 
> By the latch, do you mean # 17 or # 18 or # 21 or # 22 in this diagram?
> 
> ...


no, I do not have the bentley manual, but as I can see in the technical bulletin, the harness seems to be long.. I could not imagine to pay 265$ for 50 cm of wires 

by the way, when I talk about the latch, I mean the full mecanism as you can see in the picture from this page : http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...d-up-the-garden-path!&p=87427287#post87427287


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

kisskool said:


> no, I do not have the bentley manual, but as I can see in the technical bulletin, the harness seems to be long.. I could not imagine to pay 265$ for 50 cm of wires
> 
> by the way, when I talk about the latch, I mean the full mecanism as you can see in the picture from this page : http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...d-up-the-garden-path!&p=87427287#post87427287



Now I remember that post. It looks like #21 in the parts diagram. 

Sorry, must get some sleep. It's 05:18 here in UT.


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## kisskool (Dec 21, 2014)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> Now I remember that post. It looks like #21 in the parts diagram.
> 
> Sorry, must get some sleep. It's 05:18 here in UT.


Oups, I forgot this point  I hope I can find more about the harness. If it the full one, from module to lid, I will buy it, and change it by myself


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## Dangerrous (Sep 14, 2014)

I've got an Audi A8 that I'm using as a donor for my kit car, I have loads of wire from the car, but you can buy the wire from ebay and it's cheap. The task of threading it through the tube takes a while, I used talc to help slide it through. I'm not sure how easy it would be for someone else, My loom had already been repaired, I saved myself $350, but it took the whole weekend, half loom repair as per VW is definitely the easy way to go. 
Darren


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## kisskool (Dec 21, 2014)

Dangerrous said:


> I've got an Audi A8 that I'm using as a donor for my kit car, I have loads of wire from the car, but you can buy the wire from ebay and it's cheap. The task of threading it through the tube takes a while, I used talc to help slide it through. I'm not sure how easy it would be for someone else, My loom had already been repaired, I saved myself $350, but it took the whole weekend, half loom repair as per VW is definitely the easy way to go.
> Darren


thanks for the tip with eBay, do you have any reference ? 

Alexandre


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## Dangerrous (Sep 14, 2014)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14A-21A-3...t=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item3a9cbc7e9e

If you go down this route you need to make sure you use the correctly rated wire.
Darren


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## kisskool (Dec 21, 2014)

Dangerrous said:


> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14A-21A-3...t=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item3a9cbc7e9e
> 
> If you go down this route you need to make sure you use the correctly rated wire.
> Darren


message from Ebay :
Unfortunately, access to this particular item has been blocked due to legal restrictions in some countries. We are blocking your viewing in an effort to prevent restricted items from being displayed. Regrettably, in some cases, we may prevent users from accessing items that are not within the scope of said restrictions because of limitations of existing technology. Please accept our apologies for any inconvenience this may cause, and we hope you may find other items of interest on eBay.



i'm waiting an answer from Ecstuning about the harness, if it's the whole part, I will buy it, that will be easier for me :laugh:


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

kisskool said:


> message from Ebay :
> Unfortunately, access to this particular item has been blocked due to legal restrictions in some countries. We are blocking your viewing in an effort to prevent restricted items from being displayed. Regrettably, in some cases, we may prevent users from accessing items that are not within the scope of said restrictions because of limitations of existing technology. Please accept our apologies for any inconvenience this may cause, and we hope you may find other items of interest on eBay.
> 
> 
> ...



Did you ask ECS about both part numbers or just the one from the Technical Bulletin?


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

kisskool said:


> message from Ebay :
> Unfortunately, access to this particular item has been blocked due to legal restrictions in some countries. We are blocking your viewing in an effort to prevent restricted items from being displayed. Regrettably, in some cases, we may prevent users from accessing items that are not within the scope of said restrictions because of limitations of existing technology. Please accept our apologies for any inconvenience this may cause, and we hope you may find other items of interest on eBay.


Wow, it comes up for me and I'm across the pond. You're just across the Chunnel. 

However, the auction says "Posts to: United Kingdom" and "FREE Click & Collect from your local Argos"

There is also red text saying "There are no stores near you that carry this item. Please try a different postal code or address."


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## Dangerrous (Sep 14, 2014)

probably due to postage limitations
Darren


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## kisskool (Dec 21, 2014)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> Did you ask ECS about both part numbers or just the one from the Technical Bulletin?


I asked them about this part *3D1970053AJ *and below their answer :
"Hello

its showing to be a normal part for what you are looking for however it may not fit the vehicle and we cannot guarantee fitment since you are outside the U.S and we only deal in US spec vehicles.

Thanks"


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

> Malheureusement, l'accès à cet objet a été bloqué en raison de restrictions légales en vigueur dans certains pays. Conformément à ces restrictions, nous nous efforçons de bloquer l'affichage des objets concernés. Nous regrettons de vous informer que pour des raisons techniques, les utilisateurs ne pourront pas afficher certaines annonces qui ne relèvent pas de ces restrictions. Nous vous prions de nous excuser pour les désagréments occasionnés et nous espérons que vous trouverez d'autres objets intéressants sur eBay.


It is possible to view the censored eBay item by going to the free UK proxy server below, unchecking all the tick boxes, and pasting in the eBay link.

Browse to this UK proxy:
http://www.uk-proxy.co.uk/

Paste this link (no quotes) in the box in the proxy server page:
"http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14A-21A-30A-12v-Automotive-Cable-1m-30m-Auto-Wiring-Loom-Marine-Wire-Amp-1-2-5mm-/251737702046?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item3a9cbc7e9e"

I think this eBay censorship between England and France violates the European Union free trade treaty.

The advertiser will take cable orders over £10 by phone, on +44 (0) 114 3030711.

Chris


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

kisskool said:


> I asked them about this part *3D1970053AJ *and below their answer :
> "Hello
> 
> its showing to be a normal part for what you are looking for however it may not fit the vehicle and we cannot guarantee fitment since you are outside the U.S and we only deal in US spec vehicles.
> ...


That's too bad. It's because other markets have different requirements. For instance, I have a Scirocco and a Corrado and the rear European harness for them _could_ include wiring for rear fog lights whereas the USA rear harness would definitely not. 

I skimmed through the thread on retrofitting fog lights and didn't notice anything about the trunk harness, but you might want to read the entire thread:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1884278

Do you have tools to repair the wiring harness? (Pin removers for the terminals and crimpers for the splices.) Do you have splices? Do you have terminals?

Do you feel comfortable cutting and splicing your wiring? 

Buying a whole harness costs around $15,000.00 so I can understand why VW decided to make a "sectioned harness" especially if they were fixing them under warranty.

Good luck.

Sincerely,

Eric


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## kisskool (Dec 21, 2014)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> That's too bad. It's because other markets have different requirements. For instance, I have a Scirocco and a Corrado and the rear European harness for them _could_ include wiring for rear fog lights whereas the USA rear harness would definitely not.
> 
> I skimmed through the thread on retrofitting fog lights and didn't notice anything about the trunk harness, but you might want to read the entire thread:
> 
> ...


Hello Eric,

My understanding is : the harness n°3D1970053AJ is only the part from the module to the latch. also with the black box.
If not, I can't imagine to pay $15.000 for few wires and connectors

the real question is : what the harness is composed by ? only wires ? wires and connectors ? wires, connectors and black box ?

I just need the harness in the trunk lid that is in the red rectangle below (pictures is from the forum)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bb924wo3nwx4pp3/TrunkLidWiringHarness.jpg?dl=0

Best,
Alexandre


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## Dangerrous (Sep 14, 2014)

The half harness, going by my old one, comprises of the full set of boot connections and tube, not sure if the cassette is included, then you join the cable after the tube, looks like you could be given around 300mm after the tube to enable ease of joins. There's a post on the boot latch harness which shows a full loom and also states that part of the loom goes to the front of the car! Hence the half loom harness option.
D


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## kisskool (Dec 21, 2014)

Hi guys,

Today I did some things with my VCDS cable.

first, I tried to do the J605 adaptation:

Channel 22 value 0
Channel 23 value 0
Channel 24 value 0...and the latch seems to open and close but not totally...and the boot lid didn't move up or down.

It was showed that there is an issue with the latch.. so, I have to change it.. but the harness seems to work.

but there is a new question about the hydraulic .. how to test it to be sure it works ? because nothing moved during the channel 24 action.

Thanks for your time, this forum is fantastic !

Alexandre

ps : I forgot to add that the microswitch turned red for the first time ever...


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## Dangerrous (Sep 14, 2014)

you can see every input/output that module 46 sees in vcds, if you open the advanced Measuring values you'll be able to highlight the trunk functions to see what's going on, i.e. trunk release switch, if you if you press it vcds will show you if the car see's it activate, as with all the micro switches in the boot latch.
Darren


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## kisskool (Dec 21, 2014)

Dangerrous said:


> you can see every input/output that module 46 sees in vcds, if you open the advanced Measuring values you'll be able to highlight the trunk functions to see what's going on, i.e. trunk release switch, if you if you press it vcds will show you if the car see's it activate, as with all the micro switches in the boot latch.
> Darren


yes, I saw this advanced menu yesterday. Will try to go deeper in my analysis. Will keep you updated during the weekend

Alexandre


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## kisskool (Dec 21, 2014)

hello !

I had a busy weekend but enough time to play with the toy ... In fact I found the parts on the internet for both the full trunk harness (270€) and the boot latch (180€) I will order them, then try to change the parts by myself.

I also played with VCDS and its advanced measures but I didn't find anything regarding the hydraulic of the trunk. Any Idea how to check ?

Best regards,
Alexandre


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

kisskool said:


> hello !
> 
> I had a busy weekend but enough time to play with the toy ... In fact I found the parts on the internet for both the full trunk harness (270€) and the boot latch (180€) I will order them, then try to change the parts by myself.
> 
> ...


Hi Aexandre,

If you don't mind me asking, where did you find the full trunk harness? I was thinking of buying the repair harness from ECS, then only changing wires that are broken in mine. 

Sorry I can't help you with VCS. I only really know how to reset codes. 

Eric


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## kisskool (Dec 21, 2014)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> Hi Aexandre,
> 
> If you don't mind me asking, where did you find the full trunk harness? I was thinking of buying the repair harness from ECS, then only changing wires that are broken in mine.
> 
> ...


Hi Eric !

the part n° for the full harness is : 3D1970053AN I found it while browsing this page : 3D1970053AN

on ECStuning you can get it for $360. 

Best regards,
Alexandre


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## Dangerrous (Sep 14, 2014)

*Advanced measuring blocks*

I'll be on the car this weekend finishing the work on the engine bay, I should be able to take some screen shots of the measuring block readouts to help. This could save you some time and money, If you remove the motor from the latch you can mimic it's actions under a controlled environment.
Darren


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

kisskool said:


> Hi Eric !
> 
> the part n° for the full harness is : 3D1970053AN I found it while browsing this page : 3D1970053AN
> 
> ...


Thanks, Alexandre


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## Dangerrous (Sep 14, 2014)

Here's some screen grabs of the boot diagnostics from vcds

First from Module 46



Select Advanced measuring values

then scroll through the I/O's and tick what you wish to see



This is what my module is seeing, my boot was up at the time.
hope this helps
cheers
Darren


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## kisskool (Dec 21, 2014)

Hello all !! 

I was very busy and no time to work on my car... finally I bought the full harness and the latch.. unfortunatly, I did a mistake with the latch.. and now I have the one for manual lid instead of the one for the power unit.. ok.. I can sell it on ebay I guess... 

this week-end I'm going to work on the harness ... may the VW's god be with me !! 

I will also try to remove the latch to check if I can repair it and save 350€ 

cheers !!

Alexandre


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Alexandre,

Did the 3D1970053AN come from ECS? I ordered the 3D1970053ANJ from them and they weren't able to get it. I guess that's what I get for trying to save a few dollars.

Eric


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## kisskool (Dec 21, 2014)

Hi Eric,

no, it came from http://www.carparts-pros.com/ and it costs 257€ 

I will post a pic later in the afternoon

best regards,

Alexandre


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Thanks, Alexndre. 

I'll have to see if they ship to the USA.

Eric


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> Thanks, Alexndre.
> 
> I'll have to see if they ship to the USA.
> 
> Eric


I ended up getting one from the USA. I won't say where because I don't want to be accused of working for them.

It includes the "cassette" and most of the wires to the hat shelf area are in connectors. Some wires are loose with terminals on them. There are only 5 or 6 cut wires to splice and they are pre-stripped with the insulation pulled back. I might try to find some single connectors or may just splice them. I haven't decided.

It's not at all like the technical bulletin where you have to cut the harness and splice every wire, staggering them all. 

The part number I ordered is: 3D1970053AN

Eric


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Dangerrous said:


> The half harness, going by my old one, comprises of the full set of boot connections and tube, not sure if the cassette is included, then you join the cable after the tube, looks like you could be given around 300mm after the tube to enable ease of joins. There's a post on the boot latch harness which shows a full loom and also states that part of the loom goes to the front of the car! Hence the half loom harness option.
> D


My new harness included the tube and cassette. 

Eric


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## kisskool (Dec 21, 2014)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> My new harness included the tube and cassette.
> 
> Eric


Mine too.... still now I'm a little bit afraid of cutting the wires  i'm waiting for the latch. I've ordered the good one, the cost is 357€ ... I hope I can find time and courage to do it by myself 

or I tell the local dealer to do the job ..


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## Dangerrous (Sep 14, 2014)

If you do attempt this easy but time consuming job, keep an eye out for like for like coloured wires, Micheal/Pan European wrote about this in his post regarding a harness change
D


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

I plan to buzz (ohm) everything to make sure. My old harness is still mostly working (except the VW emblem), but wires are chaffed inside my cassette (at the S bend). I have installed some harnesses that were wired incorrectly for other VWs, so I check everything. It's not that VW makes them wrong, but there are production changes and other reasons it might be slightly different.


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## kisskool (Dec 21, 2014)

Hello guys,

Today, as i'm on vacation, I replaced my old harness by the new one. Fingers crossed, everything is working well (lights and "clignotants")

now I have to replace the latch, but I can remove the one in place, so as I drive the car tomorrow to the local dealer for a clim issue.

will keep you posted.

Best regards,
Alexandre


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## ravenflies (Oct 31, 2013)

Came to the point of no return, used plastic parts, as new, and some high flex cables that is made for the task instead of the original cables that are not made for movement at all. 









Replace wire for wire to avoid mixup Due to colour coding made for mixup.









Some hours later after folding the body in the boot. Lubricated with dry teflon lube, hence the grey residue, rather that than restricted movement. My body aces, but it works like a dream! 

/Lennart


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## kisskool (Dec 21, 2014)

Hello,

now I have changed the harness by a new one, and the latch was also changed. 

The trunk adaptation is now completed so it lifts by itself when I push on the big VW logo, but to close it I have to push again on the logo.. it's not a problem for me because I'm 6,3 tall but it is difficult for my wife.

the button inside the boot lid is not lighted as it should be.

does someone got this issue ?

regards,
Alexandre


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Alexandre,

In the factory wiring loom, the lid close button is fed to its pins 2 and 3 with a white/yellow wire and a brown/green wire direct from the trunk lid controller on the 'avionics' shelf, with no plugs or joins in between. It is worth making sure that these have not been crossed during repair with other similarly-coloured wires in the loom.

The button lamp wires are brown/red (pin 4, battery -ve), and red/purple (12V trunk courtesy lamps supply -- for looms supplied up to April 2005, and red/blue after that date). The button lamp is fed from the trunk courtesy lights by a joint inside the main loom, so if the trunk lights are lit and the button lamp is not lit (and the bulb/led is not broken) there is probably a crossed wire in the loom.

VCDS can probe some of the button states, as seen by the controller, but I am not sure that the documentation is complete. There are six switches, but only two MVBs are listed as reporting switch states (MVB 17 and MVB 26 of the controller at address 46).

For reference, while we are on the subject, here are the trunk lid switches as fitted to the power-operated lid:

Lid opening
== E165 on the VW logo
== F248 operated by rotation of the key in the lid lock
== E234 on the 'New Jersey handle' inside the trunk cavity (if present)
== E233 on the driver's door
== Switch feed from the remote key fob via the KESSY.

Lid closing
E406 on the trunk lid edge.

These feeds all arrive at the trunk lid controller J605 or at the convenience controller J393 on separate connector pins, which means that the controller software should be capable of distinguishing between each switch, and ignoring one that is apparently shorted out or open-circuit, so that the others can still work.

Chris


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## kisskool (Dec 21, 2014)

Hi Chris,

thanks for your reply. 

I also noticed that the trunk lights are not lit, so it could come from a crossed wire in the loop, I will check it during the weekend. I was not thinking of that because the rears lights were working fine, only the closing button was not in operation.

Alexandre


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Alexandre,

First, I would like to say I am very saddened by the attacks in France yesterday. 

I was wondering if you had finished this yet? Yesterday I decided to work on mine. I disconnected the old one at the edge of the trunk and noticed that right where it bends are a bunch of old splices (right at the joint). 

I grabbed the new harness and was going to tie strap it to the trunk lid while I cut the old harness and spliced it in. I thought I had checked it before but noticed that one connector was missing. I didn't know if it was for the emergency handle or the badge. I think now that it is the wire to the badge.

Was your new harness missing the wire to the badge also?

I decided to relax and watch TV instead of dealing with my harness. When I turned on the TV, the news was on. I am so sorry.

-Eric


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## kisskool (Dec 21, 2014)

Hello Eric,

First I would like to thank you so much for your message. Here in France, we're like a dark night was on us... It's unbelievable to understand what happened... but..we are strong... and with the help of the freedom people over the world we will fight and win.

regarding your harness issue, I do not have any connector for the emergency unit, because there is no emergency unit in europe. My issue with the harness is some wires have the same color so you can connect them wrongly. so, the close button inside the lid doesn't work. I have to push on the big badge to close the trunk.

it's not a big issue but when the weather will be better I will try to fix it.

keep up updated with your work


best regards

Alexandre


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Thanks for your answer, Alexandre.

I am going to work on mine again Monday.

Stay strong. 


-Eric


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Alexandre,

I finally got the wiring finished yesterday and mostly put back together today. Some trunk pieces are still out, but I wanted to make sure it worked before putting everything back. Also, it needs to be inspected and registered this month.

I figured out that the missing connector and wiring (from the replacement harness) does go to the New Jersey Escape Handle.

I ended up cutting a chunk of the right tail light wire (Lilac/Green) to hook up my New Jersey Escape Handle. I used a chunk of the part that goes in the trunk. It even has the correct terminal on that end. I unwrapped the harness where it exits the tube and used some electrical cable lube to slide the harness down. (It's made to help slide wires into conduit.) I was then able to insert the new wire into the harness and it stayed put while I slid the harness back in the tube to the correct location. I used the connector housing from my original harness. The ground wire for the New jersey Escape Handle is tied to the Badge and the tail lights. I cut off the left tail light ground wire terminal and crimped a new terminal on the end with the "new" ground to the New Jersey Escape Handle. 

My original harness had the big Yellow/Red wire that goes to the latch/motor/controller snapped off right where the wire comes out of the conduit (tube) at the top. Another wire just broke in the same location when I touched it. As I mentioned before, there were a few old splices right where the tube bends at the trunk opening. 

I used some number markers and marked every wire. I used the snapped wire as #1 and the one I broke as #2. I snipped the other wires one at a time right at the top of the tube. I labeled them, then cut, then pulled down through the tube, then labeled the "inside" end. 

When I spliced them together, I made about a 6" service loop so it could be repaired again. If the "inside" wires were too bent or brittle, I had enough leeway to cut them shorter. 

I used yellow tape from VW to indicate where the repairs were and also wrapped each splice. 

I connected the batteries and the trunk didn't work. I ran a scan and had lots of faults. I cleared them one by one. I did not do a "clear all DTCs" because that would affect the readiness which needs to pass for inspection. After I cleared the faults and re-scanned it, the trunk worked again, including the badge.

The lid liner is still out, so I don't know if the New Jersey Escape Handle works.

I drove it around and came out of a store and the trunk wouldn't open. I got home and read the faults and it said my trunk control module was bad. I reset the fault and it worked again. 

I imagine I will keep getting random faults because the batteries were disconnected for about a month. I had to do an emergency start when I first hooked up the batteries. I might have to clear faults on a regular basis because I don't plan to drive it once the snow falls (UT uses road salt and my lower grill was full of it after one drive last winter).


I see that France is fighting back. Vive La France!

-Eric


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