# forge splitter



## flashbang447 (Dec 16, 2009)

hey i just got my splitter and cant wait to put it on. i was wondering if anyone can tell me what i need to do exactly to install it. and also i am doing a boost gauge at the same time. what would be the easiest vac, line to tap into?


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## BigBlackTiTTy (Sep 25, 2009)

*Re: forge splitter (flashbang447)*

i always wondered about the splitter, do a search . theres a certain amount of turns you have to set it to, for our cars. set it to a sorta hybrid dv/bov .
about the boost gauge, i tapped into the line on my fpr .
heres another way,
http://mk1tt.montebellopark.com/boostgauge.html


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## ecko2702 (Sep 12, 2008)

*Re: forge splitter (BigBlackTiTTy)*

The splitter is fitted backward to the stock one. The bottom of it connect to the charge pipe and the side port goes into the TIP. Forge says to start it out at 20 clicks and adjust it if needed. When I fitted my boost gauge I tapped into my FPR.


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## Z3r0 (Sep 24, 2006)

there is a picture at the bottom of the page that will kind of show the positioning of the splitter
http://www.forgemotorsport.com...SPLTR
if you have your ecu done already I would say you may need to jump it to 28-34 or so clicks on the adjuster
also on the page I linked is a link to the pdf instruction sheet they have for it


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## A4 1.8 Turbo (Feb 28, 2005)

*Re: (Z3r0)*

is there any advantages to running the splitter rather than a regular dv?


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## BigBlackTiTTy (Sep 25, 2009)

i actually looked into this a while back , and the only advantage is the bov noise, for our cars anyways. and that our engines really require the dv,, otherwise you have might run rich. 
im a bit of a punk, so i kinda wanted the whistle of a bov... but thats just me , 
let us know how it goes. maybe i will end up getting one ..


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## flashbang447 (Dec 16, 2009)

*Re: forge splitter (flashbang447)*

Does anyone know.. Will i have to replace the metal rings that hold the hoses on?


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## edgy (May 16, 2006)

*Re: forge splitter (flashbang447)*


_Quote, originally posted by *flashbang447* »_Does anyone know.. Will i have to replace the metal rings that hold the hoses on?

Umm, maybe you are better off paying someone who knows what they are doing to do it for you.


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## flashbang447 (Dec 16, 2009)

*Re: forge splitter (edgy)*

after actually looking at it.. it looks stupid easy, i just dont know about the metal rings, because one of them is a screw kind and the other looks like it may be one of those stupid one time use ones


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## A4 1.8 Turbo (Feb 28, 2005)

*Re: forge splitter (flashbang447)*

yes the "stupid one time use" is a one time use. you will need to cut that off with a dikes and get another hose clamp. and same for the vacuum line on the top of it.


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## NaudifreakTT (Jan 22, 2010)

*Re: forge splitter (A4 1.8 Turbo)*

thanks man


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## Z3r0 (Sep 24, 2006)

the vac line on top actually doesn't really need a clamp and it is a bitch to get one on there. It should stay without anything besides the tightness of the fitting, but throw a small zip tie on it if it makes you sleep better at night.
when you replace the hose clamps use another screw type one to replace the one time use one as you will want to be able to remove this valve later to service most likely


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## A4 1.8 Turbo (Feb 28, 2005)

*Re: (Z3r0)*

get comfortable with those one time use clips. when your ready to do your whole TIP, theres tons of them you gotta get at! lol.


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## NaudifreakTT (Jan 22, 2010)

*Re: (A4 1.8 Turbo)*

what is the best way to get those damn clips off?


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## A4 1.8 Turbo (Feb 28, 2005)

*Re: (NaudifreakTT)*

use a dikes (wirecutters) and cut the crimped area, the part thats raised off the plastic and resembles a dovetail.


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## NaudifreakTT (Jan 22, 2010)

*Re: (A4 1.8 Turbo)*

ok so i got the "problem" clamp of the one time use one is off but the damn worm clamp on the bottom is siezed or something and i am having trouble getting it off... i was wondering should i just cut this one off as well? and have you guys had to remove your airbox to do you DVs?


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## BigBlackTiTTy (Sep 25, 2009)

i never had to remove my airbox .. but i did have to remove the 5V OOOO cover









just keep trying.. its all hoses in there so even if it is siezed,, just try and figure how to get it off without damaging the hose, you can always buy another clamp. 
if the screwdriver slot is all mucked up try using pliers to get it lose, or something like that. its prob just super tight, it should eventually break free. 
just keep trying and have patience. if it mucks up though i would def recommend not to reuse it. 
just do your best to not damage the oem hoses it connects to... if you muck them up, you will have to replace them as they will just give you a boost leak.


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## A4 1.8 Turbo (Feb 28, 2005)

*Re: (BigBlackTiTTy)*

most hose clamps are an 8mm socket. so grab your 8mm and put it on a 1/4" drive and torque her off. But those hose clamps can be purchased at autozone or wherever for dirt cheap like 2 bucks for a pair or so. Whe i got my TIP, i walked into autozone with it and sized out all the clamps i would need.


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## flashbang447 (Dec 16, 2009)

*Re: (A4 1.8 Turbo)*

Alright so i got it on and it sounds good but i am smelling a rich almost fuel like smell. Does it take a bit for our cars to get used to mods? Or did i f something up? I did use wd40 but it doesnt smell like it


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## A4 1.8 Turbo (Feb 28, 2005)

*Re: (flashbang447)*

umm....what did you put wd40 on? i think with that diverter you might smell a little richness since its evacuating some of the air that should really be going back into the system. not positive tho


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## flashbang447 (Dec 16, 2009)

*Re: (A4 1.8 Turbo)*

Just the screw on the hose clamp. I took a drive and the smell went away for the most part but i was watching my real time mpg thing and it my mpg seems to have dropped? Should i be concerned or will it take several miles to adapt. 
Also am i just being nervous? This is the first mod ive done so for. Its like loosing ur virginity but more important lol


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## A4 1.8 Turbo (Feb 28, 2005)

*Re: (flashbang447)*

I dont know, I'm not big on those splitter things. I like running just a standard DV


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## BigBlackTiTTy (Sep 25, 2009)

ya your mpg will go down.. from what i understand the bov actually makes you use your engine just a tiny bit more, because your losing boost to the "wooooosh" sound and your have to get your turbo to create more hot air, thus applying more gas... i hope that sorta makes sense, cuz it doesnt really to me.







just do a search for everyone that has tinkered with the splitter, and adjust the hyrbid mode... certain amount of clicks so its only half and half bov/dv .
as long as you dont throw any codes, id be happy. that was like the whole deal with bov, years ago before the splitter and 004.. they would just release all boost into the atmosphere, and that would throw a CEL, 
it really isnt a set it and leave it kind of mod, read everything you can on it, figure out what works best how many clicks so you can keep enough boost in, and still get the "wooooosh" sound . 
and then if i buy one, you can tell me everything i need to know


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## A4 1.8 Turbo (Feb 28, 2005)

*Re: (BigBlackTiTTy)*

on my old tt, the 180, i just ran a cone filter off the maf with heatshield and could still hear the baileys full DV real loud! haha. Still am trying to figure out the intake for my 225/stalling on the TIP install.


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## ecko2702 (Sep 12, 2008)

*Re: (BigBlackTiTTy)*

That amount that is dumped into the atmosphere is so small that the ECU doesn't even notice it. That is straight from Forge. It's not like the MPG drop is huge so who cares.


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## flashbang447 (Dec 16, 2009)

*Re: (ecko2702)*

my ecu noticed the dump i guess cuz my mpg is all kinds of crazy but the valve sounds pretty good


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## Mattionals (Mar 9, 2005)

*Re: (flashbang447)*

So I had one on my 20th and I still own it. It will make the migration over to the TT when I finally grab one but like others have stated, it isn't set and forget, at least it isn't until you really dial it in correctly. If you really mind about the gas mileage going down, you could run the Splitter as a full DV if you follow the instructions that Forge includes with the unit.
Some might think that it is stupid to have that option if you could just buy a regular DV, but you also have the adjustable rate spring, which is great because you can run a "looser" spring if you run say factory setting, and then if you get a tune, just crank down the rate to get a "tighter" spring.
Hope this helps!


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## SteveCJr (Aug 3, 2008)

*Re: (BigBlackTiTTy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BigBlackTiTTy* »_ from what i understand the bov actually makes you use your engine just a tiny bit more, because your losing boost to the "wooooosh" sound
adjust the hyrbid mode... certain amount of clicks so its only half and half bov/dv .


You will only loose boost if your spring isn't set stiff enough to hold it. The "wooooosh" sound comes from when your foot lifts off the pedal and your throttle body closes. The remaining boost needs somewhere to escape so it doesn't blow back into your turbo causing damage. BOV shoots it into the atmosphere and a DV blows it back into the intake.
The "clicks" you refer to has nothing to do with setting to BOV or DV. It simple sets the stiffness of the spring. If you are running more boost the spring will need to be stiffer to hold it while under acceleration.


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## dubdub13 (Feb 21, 2008)

*FV-QR*

i've been running a splitter since h2o and with it split it sounded sick but turbo lag was a bitch and it made my car run rich, as in some slight backfiring when letting off the gas.. i have mine flipped and full dv and it sounds pretty sick.


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: forge splitter (ecko2702)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ecko2702* »_The splitter is fitted backward to the stock one. The bottom of it connect to the charge pipe and the side port goes into the TIP. Forge says to start it out at 20 clicks and adjust it if needed. When I fitted my boost gauge I tapped into my FPR.

20 Clicks are way toooooo many. You car will run like crap. Well not like crap but not at it's optimum. Turn it all the way counterclockwise and then do 7 clicks Clockwise. You can adjust one click at the time from there. I have at 7 clicks and it works best for me. The stock setting is way tooo stiff and it will run a lot better at the lower settings
even if you have all sort of mods. I have a Revo Stage II tune with Downpipe and Blueflame Exhaust, Forge Splitter Valve, Boost Machine,
etc etc..... Stiffer isn't always better, especially in this case!


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: forge splitter (flashbang447)*


_Quote, originally posted by *flashbang447* »_Does anyone know.. Will i have to replace the metal rings that hold the hoses on?

YES! The stock metal retainers are one Use only and are a pain to get off. Once they are off they are easily replaced with some adjustable worm clamps. Get some good ones that don't eat up your hoses.


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: (BigBlackTiTTy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BigBlackTiTTy* »_ya your mpg will go down.. from what i understand the bov actually makes you use your engine just a tiny bit more, because your losing boost to the "wooooosh" sound and your have to get your turbo to create more hot air, thus applying more gas... i hope that sorta makes sense, cuz it doesnt really to me.







 just do a search for everyone that has tinkered with the splitter, and adjust the hyrbid mode... certain amount of clicks so its only half and half bov/dv .
as long as you dont throw any codes, id be happy. that was like the whole deal with bov, years ago before the splitter and 004.. they would just release all boost into the atmosphere, and that would throw a CEL, 
it really isnt a set it and leave it kind of mod, read everything you can on it, figure out what works best how many clicks so you can keep enough boost in, and still get the "wooooosh" sound . 
and then if i buy one, you can tell me everything i need to know









Not true. The Forge Splitter is not a TRUE BOV. It vents less then 10% to Atmosphere and has no ill effects to the richness or leanness of the fuel mixture. The only thing is that the noise is cool at first but gets annoying after listening to it for a few months.
I ended up using the block off disk and converting it to a regular DV.
What I do like about it is that it is adjustable. And remember it is way to stiff from the factory so adjust it to about 7 clicks from fully closed and then adjust it by one click either up or down from there.
I played with tons of settings over the last 2 1/2 years where I have owned the Splitter and 7 clicks works best for me. I would not recommend anything over 8 clicks from fully closed no matter what kind of mods you have.
PS: Actually my gas mileage was not affected whatsoever. Still getting about 24.7 Mpg average. 75000 miles and going strong. 


_Modified by IndyTTom at 2:59 PM 2-7-2010_

_Modified by IndyTTom at 2:59 PM 2-7-2010_


_Modified by IndyTTom at 3:00 PM 2-7-2010_


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## flashbang447 (Dec 16, 2009)

*Re: (IndyTTom)*

So if i am running 20ish clicks could that effect my mpg?


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## A4 1.8 Turbo (Feb 28, 2005)

*Re: (flashbang447)*


_Quote, originally posted by *flashbang447* »_So if i am running 20ish clicks could that effect my mpg?

I would say so, if reccomended above is 7


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: (flashbang447)*


_Quote, originally posted by *flashbang447* »_So if i am running 20ish clicks could that effect my mpg?

Of course. 20 clicks is way too stiff of a setting. You should always run the softest setting where you are still holding boost. More isn't always better and from the factory the Splitter is just set way too stiff.
Turn it all the way counterclockwise then turn it 7 clicks clockwise and you will see a big difference in throttle response, performance and possibly mpg depending what other issues you may have. 
BTW, a too stiff of a setting can cause hesitations, backfire, excessive backpressure and possible engine damage if not corrected.
This is also true to those that run a regular Forge or other DV with a too stiff of a spring. Luckily the Splitter is adjustable and works really well once adjusted properly. 



_Modified by IndyTTom at 11:45 PM 2/7/2010_


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## flashbang447 (Dec 16, 2009)

*Re: (IndyTTom)*

great i appreciate the help bud. i will adjust tomorrow afternoon and post my results


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## BigBlackTiTTy (Sep 25, 2009)

*Re: (flashbang447)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








good to know, i just may pick one up .
i had heard so many "bad" things about them that didnt give me confidence, but your comments helped
do you mind me asking what all your engine mods are indyttom ?


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: (BigBlackTiTTy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BigBlackTiTTy* »_ http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








good to know, i just may pick one up .
i had heard so many "bad" things about them that didnt give me confidence, but your comments helped
do you mind me asking what all your engine mods are indyttom ?

Most people don't like the Forge Splitter because they assume that it is set perfectly for their application right out of the box. When they install it without any adjustments they will soon find out that their car will suddenly run rougher, perhaps hesitate and show signs of loss of overall performance. Once the Splitter is set correctly it will perform as advertised. Originally I did started out with about 10 clicks then after about a day clicked it down to 9 clicks then 8. I went all the way down to 5 clicks but then boost started to drop off at Full throttle so I upped it back to 6 and then 7 etc. I settled at 7 clicks which seemed to work best for my application. You may want to try anything from 6-9 clicks depending on your mods. I think 7 or 8 clicks is the sweet spot for the MK1 TT's at least for the 225's 
My mods are all basic bolt ons. I have the Revo Stage II tune, the Modshack Boost Machine (Controller), Modshack larger MAF, I think they call that the BAMM, Flowstack with large AEM cone filter. (That was a lot cheaper and just as effective if not more so then most more expensive aftermarket set ups). I have a Downpipe with free flow cat and coupled to the Blue Flame Cat back exhaust. I am running about 24 psi Peak Boost which levels off and holds at about 20psi. 
If you are considering the Forge Spliiter keep in mind that the novelty of the swish sound will wear off and I got so sick of that sound after a few months I did use the block off plate that comes with the Splitter and used it to get rid of the annoying sound. I still get some sound because of the open air filter which is plenty for me. But it's nice to have a choice for some people that want more noise.
Hope that helps.
Tom in indy


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