# Removing the Front Overhead Control Panel (includes OnStar deletion) [TOC, Photos done]



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

At the request of Passatt, who is trying to hardwire in a radar detector, here are instructions that explain how to remove the front overhead control panel. This is not a particularly difficult task, but it does require patience. Don't try it if you are ham-handed or if you get frustrated easily. It's best to have a helper for steps 6 and 9.
Here is a link to Passatt's original post about the radar detector: Hardwire Valentine One installation. Just to help keep the forum organized, if you want to make a supplemental post that relates to radar detector installation, please make it to the existing radar detector thread. If you post has to do with mirror or front overhead control panel removal and re-installation, make it to this thread.
I cannot attach the required wiring diagram to this post - it is way too big, over a megabyte. What you need is diagram 8, "Power distribution (dual battery system)", which is the main power distribution diagram for Phaetons with dual battery installations (North American Cars). Your Phaeton service technician will probably be happy to print this out for you if you ask (it helps if you show up with a couple of boxes of donuts for the tech team when you make such a request). 
This particular diagram does not detail all the wires in the roof control panel area - if you want that level of detail, you really should buy the Bentley CD. But, if you are sharp enough at electrical load analysis, and familiar with how to read VW electrical schematics, you will probably notice something of interest around track 141 of diagram 8. That sentence is not a recommendation on my part! If I was to install a radar detector (which I won't, because they are illegal where I live), I would run a wire from the front fusebox up to the roof via the A pillar, and give the radar detector its own dedicated power supply.
*Tools required:*
VW Trim Removal Tool
Torx Screwdrivers
Small Jeweller's screwdriver for assisting with electrical connector locking tab separation
*Process:*
1) As with all procedures that involve separating electrical connectors on the Phaeton, the most cautious approach to take is to disconnect both battery ground terminals before you start in. This will avoid generating numerous fault codes as you disconnect components. If you have a diagnostic scan tool, you can perform this particular procedure without disconnecting the battery, however, in that case, complete and save a full diagnostic scan of the car before you begin disassembly. That way, when you are clearing fault codes after the work is done, you will be able to determine which ones are spurious and arose as a result of the disassembly, and which ones were pre-existing and thus legitimate.
2) Put the car in Park, set the parking brake, turn off the ignition, and remove the key from the ignition. Even after doing all this, though, be aware that there will still be 12V DC present from the hot battery bus via the roof control module to power the dome lights and reading lights.
3) Remove the cover that surrounds the upper mounting bracket of the rear view mirror. It is held in place by 3 spring tabs across the aft edge, two spring clips on the sides towards the back, and two plastic friction clips on either side at the front. Use the VW Trim Removal Tool to gently pry the aft edge away from the roof. Start up at the glass, then work your way around. The front friction clips will let go on their own once you have the aft edge down far enough.
*Start in here...*

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*...and work your way around to the aft edge.*

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*The aft edge will eventually drop down like this.*

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4) Once this cover is loose, disconnect the electrical cable that connects to the HomeLink transmitter on the passenger side of the vehicle. Like all VW electrical connectors, it has a locking tab. It is helpful to have a bright worklight and a magnifying glass handy to allow you to identify the locking tab, if you are not already familiar with the design of this connector.
*Disconnect the HomeLink Transmitter cable*

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5) Once the HomeLink transmitter cable is disconnected, remove and stow the cover assembly. Be careful to not exert any force on the rainsensor assembly, which is stuck to the windshield on the driver side of the car, when you are manoeuvring the cover around to get it free from the mirror area.
*Cover Assembly after Removal*
_Note position of the various tangs that hold this cover in place._

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6) The mirror itself is tricky to remove, it is very helpful to have a second pair of hands available to hold the mirror after you have removed it from its mount, while you are then disconnecting the various cables that connect to the mirror. First thoroughly loosen but do not remove the Torx bolt that secures the mirror to its mounting bracket. If you accidentally remove the Torx bolt, no big problem, but be prepared to catch two rather heavy, sharp-edged metal bits that are on the other side of the mirror bracket. If you don't catch these, they are magnetically attracted (as they drop) to the nearest polished wood surface in your Phaeton, where they will leave a big chip. This is why it is best to not totally remove the mirror mounting bolt.
7) Once the mirror mounting bolt is quite loose, gently wiggle the mirror to loosen it, then slide it straight down the windshield (parallel to the inside surface of the windshield) about 2 inches until it slides out of its mounting channel. The mirror is surprisingly heavy, don't drop it when it slides out.
8) Once the mirror is loose and out of its mounting channel, gently pry loose the electrical connectors that are stuffed in the roof area, and disconnect the three electrical connectors where they attach to the mirror assembly. Stow the mirror assembly.
*Mirror, Mirror mounting screw, electrical connectors.*

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9) Using a small, flat jewellers screwdriver, remove the two square, white coloured lenses that cover the cabin dome lights. Be especially cautious when removing the lens on the driver side. It contains the microphone for the Telematics system, and the microphone has a very, very thin and fragile cable on it. Have your helper hold this lens assembly, to prevent strain on the cable, for the next few minutes while you go on with the following steps. Note that it is neither necessary or desirable to remove the OnStar control panel from the middle of the roof control panel (as I did in the picture above...)
*Remove the two square white lenses*

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Note that the illustration in the VW North America Phaeton Repair Manual CD (the Bentley CD) illustrating this process is incorrect. It shows a European Phaeton that does not have the OnStar control panel. The North American Phaetons have two white coloured lenses, one at each side. These lenses come out independently.
*Note the error in the VW Repair manual*
_This diagram shows the single, large white lens that is fitted to European Phaetons._ (Item 2 in this diagram)

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10) Remove the two Torx screws that you will find near each of the light bulbs for the front cabin dome lights.
*Screw Locations*

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11) Using the VW Trim Removal tool, gently pry the entire assembly free of the headliner. On my car, the whole assembly was really firmly fitted into the headliner, and it took quite a bit of coaxing - applying a little bit of pressure to one side, then the other, then the front - to get the assembly out. It is sort of hinged at the aft edge, so don't bother trying to pry it loose at the aft edge.
*Note the recesses that the large tangs on the control panel fit into.*
_It will take a bit of gentle coaxing with the trim removal tool to pry the whole control panel out. *Don't rush the process!*_

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12) Once you get it loose, disconnect the multitude of electrical connectors that are attached to it. If you have keyless access, you will need to unclip the key-sensing antenna from the top middle of the roof control panel to get access to the sunroof switch connector. Do not attempt to electrically disconnect the antenna assembly (ribbon connectors) itself.
*Here is what it looks like once it comes loose from the roof.*
_Note the size of the tangs sticking out from this cover on the left hand side. This is what you are working against in step 11._

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13) The connector that attaches the microphone cable to the wire that runs back to the Telematics unit is retained in a little clip assembly in the roof control module. Take careful note of how this connector fits into its holder before you remove it. When you are disconnecting it, be very careful with the extremely thin and fragile wires leading to the microphone.
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*Reattachment*
Reattachment is more or less just the reversal of the above process. Here are some tips to make it easier:
14) Think carefully about the sequence in which you re-attach the electrical connectors. You might need to groom the wire bundles a bit to allow you to stow everything properly when you re-insert the control panel in the roof. Note also that it is not possible to insert some connectors into their opening if another overlapping connector has been inserted in the wrong sequence right beside it.
15) Be sure you put the square white lens that has the microphone in it back on the driver side of the vehicle. There is an arrow on the back of the microphone that points toward the source of speech, this will help you insert the lens correctly oriented.
16) The easiest way to re-attach the mirror to the bracket that holds it is to remove the Torx bolt completely, slide the two metal parts into the bracket that the mirror attaches to, then put the mirror in place and re-insert the Torx bolt. If you are having difficulty getting the Torx bolt in the hole, use one end of a Q-Tip cotton swab (with the cotton ball cut off) to fish the parts into alignment with the hole on the mirror itself. Don't use a metal tool.
*How the two metal parts fit into the mirror bracket, when you are ready to re-install it.*

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.
Wiggle the mirror around gently as you tighten the bolt. You want the mirror to be in the highest possible position on its slide. Be sure the mirror is not loose once you have finished tightening the bolt - check it to see that it is rock-solid in its mount. If it is loose, even though the bolt is tightened, loosen the bolt, take the mirror off its slide, and re-attach it.
17) When you are stowing the 3 connectors that go to the mirror itself, after having re-connected them, take note of where the three prongs on the aft edge of the cover that surrounds the mirror will stick into when you put that cover back on. These prongs protrude about one inch beyond the headliner. If you stow the mirror connectors in the wrong spot, you won't be able to get the prongs fully into the headliner. Take a second look at the picture of that cover sitting on the dashboard of my car. See those big prongs? You have to leave space for them that is unobstructed by an electrical connector.
Make sure that the connectors are fully covered by the foam sleeves when you re-stow them. The foam is there for two purposes: First, to stop rattles, and second, to prevent short circuits, caused by condensation transferring from the inside of the steel roof to the electrical connector.
18) Do not use ammoniated cleaners on the glass in the vicinity of the rainsensor - it is allergic to ammonia. There is no need at any time to disconnect the rainsensor electrical connector, so just leave the thing well enough alone. It is an expensive and delicate part.
*What the roof looks like, once everthing is disconnected.*

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19) You will have to reprogram the seat memory buttons to re-store your interior mirror position preferences after you have put everything back together again. If you have keyless access, you may need to put the car through a few ignition on, ignition off, lock, wait 60 seconds and unlock sequences to get the access-start control module re-acquainted with the key - this is because you disconnected an antenna from the key sensing system.
Michael


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## whealy (Nov 15, 2004)

Michael,
Please email me the wiring diagram if you can. If you don't have tools to make it smaller, I can help. I also want to see it! I did order my CD Manual last week. I assume that's where you are getting this info.
TIA


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (whealy)*

Email has been sent to you. You are correct, the full set of wiring diagrams come with the Phaeton Service Manual CD (the Robert Bentley publication).
Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*

*Archival Note:* Related post, with additional component identification - Anti-theft alarm problems following aftermarket Phone installation


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*

Just for the record, there are many different versions of the front overhead control panel, depending on whether or not the car was equipped with OnStar, whether it has a garage door opener (Homelink), whether it has a sunroof or not, and so on. 
*Two Different Versions*
_- on the left, without OnStar and without a garage door opener
- on the right, with OnStar and with a garage door opener_








*Phaetons without a sunroof have a sunglasses case*


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## Fighterguy (Aug 23, 2006)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*

OEMpl.us & Michael
Need the pix from this thread for my cell phone prep write-up.
Eric


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (Fighterguy)*

Photos re-hosted.


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## VWGlf00GL (Feb 14, 2005)

*OnStar Delete - Dome Light*

Hello Phaeton Gang!
Check this out! Take away those non-functional OnStar Buttons from your vehicle:
http://oempl.us/index.php?main...d=802
I just picked up one, should be here next week some time. Very excited!
- Adrian


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: OnStar Delete - Dome Light (VWGlf00GL)*

There is a post somewhere here - quite possibly in the Table of Contents - that explains how to go about removing the OnStar control buttons and installing the single piece dome light lens.
It is not a difficult task, but it involves a fair amount of 'detail' work. If you are comfortable dis-assembling and re-assembling small bits and pieces, it makes for a pleasant half-day project.
Michael


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## Fighterguy (Aug 23, 2006)

*Re: OnStar Delete - Dome Light (VWGlf00GL)*

Michael can QA me on this, but I think that, because OnStar is no longer functional, it's actually a simple pry out, clip wires, push in type project. The OnStar button block and the existing lenses on either side are just press fit with tabs and can be pried out. You just have to be careful not to damage the panel they are mounted in. The no longer functional OnStar button wires can simply be disconnected. The cloth button in the left side lens is actually a microphone that was used for OnStar communication and for an integrated cell phone. Since you have a 2004, neither of those functions is relevant any more and you can clip those wires. The microphone and the dummy one on the other side are also press fit. When installing the microphone into the new lens there is an indexing tab on the microphone side that fits into a notch in the lens. When properly inserted, an arrow and “To Speaker” lettering on the microphone should point towards the driver side when the lens assembly is reinstalled. Can't remember if there is an indexing tab for the other side's cloth button. Just to be safe, I'd tape over the disconnected wire ends before stuffing them out of the way in the overhead panel.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: OnStar Delete - Dome Light (Fighterguy)*

Below is a photo that illustrates what we are talking about.
I am certain that I have already written an article here in the forum explaining how to convert a dome light assembly from "two lenses + OnStar button" to "single lens", simply because I did exactly that to my own car about two years ago. I'm going to leave it up to someone else here on the forum (my thanks to you in advance) to do the Google searching needed to find it. Once the article gets found, I will promptly re-host the photos if they are missing.
Michael


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## VWGlf00GL (Feb 14, 2005)

_Quote, originally posted by *PanEuropean* »_Below is a photo that illustrates what we are talking about.
I am certain that I have already written an article here in the forum explaining how to convert a dome light assembly from "two lenses + OnStar button" to "single lens", simply because I did exactly that to my own car about two years ago. I'm going to leave it up to someone else here on the forum (my thanks to you in advance) to do the Google searching needed to find it. Once the article gets found, I will promptly re-host the photos if they are missing.
Michael

Michael, the thread seems to be here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1698155 (Archived).
It took a little time to find it. My OnStar Delete is going to be installed next week, along with 4 new tires and 4 wheels, and 4 camshafts, lifters and rock arms (a lot of work being done here).. 
I really, really miss her. But she is in very, very good hands. I've been ever so patient.. We're approaching 30 days next week without the fun2ton







. I can't rush perfection especially with all this engine work..
- Adrian


_Modified by VWGlf00GL at 12:50 PM 9-5-2008_


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (VWGlf00GL)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VWGlf00GL* »_Michael, the thread seems to be here...

Thanks for finding it, I have appended the newer discussion onto the older discussion you referenced.
Michael


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## Phat One (Jul 10, 2009)

*"Onstar Delete" Instructions and photos*

This is a very simple task and can be done in less than an hour. Tools needed: small screwdriver (eg jeweller's flat blade screwdriver), thin plastic card (eg old credit card/driver's license), small wire cutters.

Order your onstar delete piece from somewhere like OEMPlus, approximately $40.
http://oemplus.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=75_25_51&products_id=802










Here is the new piece that you will install shown above part of the removed piece









Here you see both new and old components










Use the plastic card inserted along just the front edge of the 3-section panel
The 3 sections are: left light + mic, onstar controls and right light + dummy mic, they are all about the same size
Pry the front edge downwards. Once loosened remove by hand. The passeneger side light is not attached by anything, the onstar controls and the driver's side are connected by wires


















Use wirecutters and cut the wires. Wrap the ends in elctrical tape so they don't spark!!!





















Use a small screwdriver to carefully spring the plastic tabs on the back of the speaker/mic on both left and right panels. 



















Transfer the speaker/mic to the new part and press it into place. There are 2 locater tabs on the dummy mic and 1 locater tab on the real mic to ensure correct orientation. They will only fit in one way so don't force it.









Now do the same for the other side









Back in the car, insert the rear edge first
Make sure the rear edge is really snug against the receiving edge
Snap the front edge into position









Test that it works. If so you are finished, congratulations it looks much better 

Graham


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Great post, thank you very much for taking all the pictures and writing the narrative.

Michael


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

That same panel is available from Parts.com for $29.

Also, if you remove the plastic 'dividers' to the left and right of the center light, you will get a more even light all the way across with much less of a dark spot.


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## keithwbloom (Apr 15, 2005)

*Deleted OnStar button modules*

If any of you have and do not want any longer, some who have discarded them now wish they hadn't and are interested in getting another to complete the OnStar to Bluestar mod. PM me and I'll make the connections.

Keith


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## wouterjansen60 (Aug 27, 2011)

*Humidity sensor*

Michael,

Good you rehost the pics please? I need to replace my humidity sensor...... 

Thx, Wouter


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## planeadam (Nov 26, 2011)

I approached this challenge in a slightly different way, and figured I'd share some pictures that are helpful regardless what solution you select. 

Here is a link to the album of images: http://imgur.com/a/4uJ65 (I'm not exactly sure how to host pictures inside a post just yet...I'll figure it out soon enough!)

I started by removing the two cloth microphone covers - on Onstar equipped Phaetons the drivers side should have a mike and the passenger side is simply a dummy one. 

Behind those covers you will find two Torx T-10 screws - remove them.

Starting at the front of the panel, gently pry it away from the roof - do not start at the back, as there are 4 1/2" pins that prevent it from coming out rear-first. There are a total of 6 tabs holding the panel in place - they will catch the roof surface fabric, so as the panel comes out, slide the fabric around the clips. 

You now should have a panel hanging by the mike wire, the Onstar wire, the sunroof control wire, and 4 other plugs. Remove the aft 4 plugs - 3 of them have clips only on the front, and one has clips on both sides. Next remove the sunroof plug, which has one small tab on the top center that must be released with a screwdriver. 

The Onstar module and mike plugs are a little snugger of a fit, but they will come out. If you are able to replace it with the euro light backing (shiny 3-bulb enclosure, great! If not, the plug on the Onstar module is very hard to slide out through the panel...I ended up breaking mine (on purpose) with pliers to remove the US-spec light fixture. There are 2 electric connection clips for supplying power to the interior lights which I removed with a pair of pliers (this can be done on the comfort of your workbench at this point.

The light fixture is held to the panel by 4 T-6 screws - that is all I can think of that may be useful at the moment - let me know if anyone has questions or wants further explanation - hope this helps...its a much cleaner interior look with the Onstar delete!


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

wouterjansen60 said:


> Michael,
> 
> Good you rehost the pics please? I need to replace my humidity sensor......
> 
> Thx, Wouter


Hi Wouter:

Photos have been re-hosted.

Michael


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## wouterjansen60 (Aug 27, 2011)

Thx Michael,

I initially asked my dealer for a quote for a new humidity sensor as mine produce a failure. Well the news was i had to order a complete new internal mirror... Price around 590 Euros .....

I have gor a used mirror on ebay incl. Sensor from Poland for 95,-. Hope the sensor this sensor will work , although it is a minor detail sensor ( in summer)

So now i have the pics, ill start the job 

Wouter


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## wouterjansen60 (Aug 27, 2011)

*The humidity sensor*










If you need a replacement humidity sensor, unfortunately you will need to buy a complete new overhead rear view mirrow, price around 560 Euros incl. sensor. I bought a used one on ebay (Poland) for about 95 Euro's.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Thought this might be the best place to add a note about the peeling problem on the buttons in the overhead panel. 

Mine were replaced as part of the warranty job to fix the rear view mirror memory. The design on the new part has been altered and the covering on the buttons is different, it's not as rubbery as the old ones. Hopefully this means it won't happen again! The part is $850, which is difficult to justify merely for cosmetic reasons, I don't think I would have paid for it myself just for the buttons. The part apparently comes without the light covers and On-Star button module which are transferred from the old unit, hence no need to get the On-Star board modified again for the Bluetooth upgrade. I assume that's for homogenity reasons since ROW doesn't have On-Star.


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

Does anyone know off the top of their head what the plugs on the mirror itself go to?

The original mirror on my '06 is cosmetically damaged so I bought one off Ebay.de and never noticed until I just went to install it that it only has 2 plugs.. not 3 like the one I took out.


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