# Should you add a subwoofer to the CC sound system?



## suziesilverado (Mar 7, 2011)

I have a spanking new 2012 Sport and love it (living in Sarasota). 

But, the speakers are nowhere near as good as the one that came with my 2003 Passat. The Fender system didn't seem to make much of a difference.

Can I improve it substantially by adding a subwoofer? Will that void the warranty on the sound system? 

If anyone has done this- which one do you recommend? and where did you do it? 

Thanks


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## iPinch (Oct 25, 2008)

The CC doest come with Fender. I would be nice if it had a dedicated sub like the Passat's fender system


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## TriCCTanker (Sep 16, 2011)

*Infinity Basslink works well for the $*

For the price (yes there are better options out there for more $$$) I went with the Infinity Basslink. The built in LOC and free provided wiring kit from Crutchfield.com helped keep the price low. I had it installed by Best Buy since the local shop is fairly decent and they offer a nation-wide guarantee on the install. Plus, the physical size is small enough to stick back in the corner of the trunk without too much loss of usable space. 

It needed to be tuned prior to making any judgment on sound quality. That being said it certainly fills in the lower frequency gaps that the stock system has. It won't necessarily rattle a vehicle’s windows parked next to you. However, it's sufficient for sound inside your own vehicle.


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## Epence (Jan 7, 2010)

if you're not a super audiophile, add an amp and 8" or 10" subwoofer should be sufficient. Not too much pounding, sounds just better than stock. It should not void any warranty if your wiring is stealth. Tap signals from the wires behind the head unit.


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## greek bandit (Sep 29, 2004)

heck yeah you should......i just put a apline type r 12" in my cc, best move yet


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## DasCC (Feb 24, 2009)

Epence said:


> if you're not a super audiophile, add an amp and 8" or 10" subwoofer should be sufficient. Not too much pounding, sounds just better than stock. It should not void any warranty if your wiring is stealth. Tap signals from the wires behind the head unit.


Any DIYs in this?


Typos courtesy of iPhone 4 using Tapatalk


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## behrad (May 3, 2011)

i was thinking of doing the same thing to my 11 cc


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## dcbc (Sep 14, 2011)

I think the answer is, "it depends." But beware, it's a slippery slope.

If you just have the basic stereo, i.e., not Dynaudio, your money is probably best spent on upgrading the speakers first. Even a modest speaker upgrade is going to sound better than stock. Of course, since the RCD-510 only puts out 20 watts per channel and is crossed over at the source (or shortly thereafter in some way, shape or form), you aren't going to get some of the benefits of some of the nicer components unless you install an amp to power those speakers. So once you decide it's worth your while to install an amp (and let's face it, if you were going to put in a sub, you were going to do that anyway), you start looking at some nicer speakers.

This is at least the path I am taking. I have gone from doing a modest speaker upgrade to a ten speaker system (Vibe Space6 3 ways in the front and Vibe BlackAir 6 2 ways in the back) with a nice amp power them at 90 watts (RMS) per channel. Cost for the speakers and Amp will be a bit over $500. The install of all of this will be a few hundred more most likely (I don't feel like tearing apart doors and running wires).

My hope is that I will decide that I don't care about having a sub once these speakers are in. But with the amp in place, it will be easy to add another amp and a sub if I decide to go that route.

YMMV.


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## Epence (Jan 7, 2010)

lugubre3645 said:


> Any DIYs in this?
> 
> 
> Typos courtesy of iPhone 4 using Tapatalk


There's no specific DIYs, just search around, especially for the PIN diagram for speaker wires. I don't have the diagram anymore. Make sure you have all parts ready, wire tabs and basic kits (at least running the wires process).


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## justinclark (Oct 5, 2009)

Just as an FYI

I have installed a 13.5 JL Audio w7(one of the best out there) and there is very little rattle. It sounds like you don't want anything that crazy so you should be just fine with a little dynamat... good luck!


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## DomLS1 (Sep 1, 2011)

I installed a Memphis M3 15" with no rattle.... yet.


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## dcbc (Sep 14, 2011)

Just in case anyone is looking for 3 way components and reads my post above, I did not, in fact, get the Vibe Space6 speakers. They were back ordered. Turned out that this may have be a good thing. My local shop had some and I went by to take a look at them. The tweeter housing was about 1.5" across. 

I ended up getting a pair of CDT CL-6E32 3 ways for the front stage and CDT CL-61A/TW-24 2 Way's for the rear. I have seen some indication that these will fit without much modification.


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## MrRline (Apr 6, 2010)

Does the stock rcd 510?(not sure on the name) non nav touch screen have the availability to add a subwoofer? If so are there the hookups rca's and remote wire to send to the sub or no?


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## Ali B (Feb 17, 1999)

dj_cronic_metal said:


> Does the stock rcd 510?(not sure on the name) non nav touch screen have the availability to add a subwoofer? If so are there the hookups rca's and remote wire to send to the sub or no?



Along the same lines, is it possible to add an amp and just upgrade the existing 8 speakers for a more powerful, crisp sounding system with the existing RCD510 head unit? I would be happy with an incremental improvement with added power and better speakers.


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## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

I am in the midst of deciding between an add-on powered subwoofer box :the JL Audio 10inch PowerWedge PWM110-WXJX, or Rockford Fosgate R300-10. I think the JL is a better quality unit, at a slightly higher price, but the Rockford box is slightly smaller, and more likely to fit in the rear-seat footwell (behind the drivers seat). I had a similar add-on powered subwoofer set-up in my Audi A4, with the stock stereo, and it made an excellent upgrade to the overall sound quality, as you don't have to overdrive the stock speakers (and amps) when you excessively raise the bass level to get acceptable sound.


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## Epence (Jan 7, 2010)

dj_cronic_metal said:


> Does the stock rcd 510?(not sure on the name) non nav touch screen have the availability to add a subwoofer? If so are there the hookups rca's and remote wire to send to the sub or no?


There's no RCA sub. out. It's all about wire tabbing. You might have to custom make an RCA cable with one split end (+/-[or ground]). 

As for remote wire, you need to link that to the fuse box (use an fuse adapter). I don't know which fuse slot to use, best bet is using a multimeter to measure a fuse slot for 12v when the car is on/off on driver's side. Just make sure the you want a slot that reads 0v DC when car is off. 

I used the 12v cig. charger instead, just modded an old cellphone charger, took out the circuit board, threw a fuse on it and link to the remote wire.


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## dcbc (Sep 14, 2011)

Ali B said:


> Along the same lines, is it possible to add an amp and just upgrade the existing 8 speakers for a more powerful, crisp sounding system with the existing RCD510 head unit? I would be happy with an incremental improvement with added power and better speakers.


Yes. That is what I am doing. You need to use a line output converter, which takes your speaker wires as inputs and converts them to line level signals with rca outs. In addition to that, I may get someone with a VAG-COM to get into my stereo and set it as if there were a Dynaudio system in the car so that it sends a flat line level signal out. This gets rid of the EQ tweaks in the RCD510 and makes things sound a bit nicer.

From there, you can run RCA to a four channel amp and upgrade to some nice speakers that can handle a good bit of power. The ones I chose to go to a 10 speaker system are listed above.

As for the sub, my 4 channel amp has an rca out that I can send over to a sub amp if/when I decide to add the sub.


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## Bill6211789 (Dec 11, 2009)

dcbc said:


> Yes. That is what I am doing. You need to use a line output converter, which takes your speaker wires as inputs and converts them to line level signals with rca outs. In addition to that, I may get someone with a VAG-COM to get into my stereo and set it as if there were a Dynaudio system in the car so that it sends a flat line level signal out. This gets rid of the EQ tweaks in the RCD510 and makes things sound a bit nicer.
> 
> From there, you can run RCA to a four channel amp and upgrade to some nice speakers that can handle a good bit of power. The ones I chose to go to a 10 speaker system are listed above.
> 
> As for the sub, my 4 channel amp has an rca out that I can send over to a sub amp if/when I decide to add the sub.


I would assume doing this wont work properly, the signal tht is sent out by the HU for a Dynaudio is completely different even if you added an external amp for the 4 door channels. The dynaudio amp is more like 10 individual amps rolled into one. POne signal to the amp for each woofer, mid, and tweeter

If you want to add just a sub to the OEM deck you need a line output converter like the MTX Re-Q
(also w/ the re-q you dont need a Rem wire bc it senses the sound being sent to it and will automatically power up, But if u send a rem wire from a fuse you will power up slightly quicker)

Just for Sub:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_19209_MTX_re-Q.aspx

For Sub and a 4 channel Amp:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_19208_MTX_re-Q5.aspx


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## dcbc (Sep 14, 2011)

I haven't gotten behind the deck yet, but it is my understanding that the deck is only sending one speaker wire per door (4 channels). The front doors each have a crossover and the rear doors split the signal between the two component speakers with a capacitor. 

Of course, I have seen older VW Amp wiring diagrams that show the plugs sending separate signals per speaker like you suggest, which would mean that the crossover is set at the HU and output through eight or 10 speaker wires. This would mean that the Dyn processor is an amp and possibly is doing some time shift work, but is otherwise just passing the signal through without doing any crossover work. 

I've pretty much decided that I'm just going to use the 4 channel LOC that I have and bet I probably won't be able to tell that I may have lost some low end.

If anyone has dug into this yet and can give some specific advice about whether it is worthwhile to get the HU set to output as if Dynaudio, let me know. Otherwise, I'll make sure my installer takes notes and gives me a good idea of what lies behind the touch screen and doors.


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## Bill6211789 (Dec 11, 2009)

You need a very good LOC I had my cheap crap ones in with the stock deck and they sounded horrible. The on board eq in the deck messes with the frequencies going to. The amp making your music sound off(even more so with the sub) . Also i had a horrible engine noise distortion bc of the crappy loc used, 
Spend the money and do it right the first time

Sent from my EVO


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## dcbc (Sep 14, 2011)

My initial plan was to use a David Navone 4 channel LOC. Given his reputation in close to 40 years in the industry, I'm expecting it to sound good enough for my ears. I realize it's not going to correct for the crossover applied by the RCD510 and that, like most passive LOCs, it's going to have some bass drop off. 

I considered the JL clean sweep, but for the good it does, that volume correction is going to rob me of my steering wheel controls and that is a non starter. I'm also considering the LC6i. It will do summing, which would help with the onboard crossover on the RCD510.


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## gtinmiami (Apr 22, 2009)

I would love to see some pics if anyone has done this on their CC. I (like most of us on here) am pretty picky about how something like this is setup and causes the least amount of interference - physically and technically.

Post some pics fellow CC owners!!


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## Bill6211789 (Dec 11, 2009)

dcbc said:


> My initial plan was to use a David Navone 4 channel LOC. Given his reputation in close to 40 years in the industry, I'm expecting it to sound good enough for my ears. I realize it's not going to correct for the crossover applied by the RCD510 and that, like most passive LOCs, it's going to have some bass drop off.
> 
> I considered the JL clean sweep, but for the good it does, that volume correction is going to rob me of my steering wheel controls and that is a non starter. I'm also considering the LC6i. It will do summing, which would help with the onboard crossover on the RCD510.


If your looking for somthing like the JL clean sweep, the MTX Re-Q does exactly tht gets rid of the OEM decks eq with messes with bass/highs. And it wont effect ur steering wheel controls. Ive installed about 5 in VWs with zero issues 

Sent from my EVO


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## dcbc (Sep 14, 2011)

Thanks for the recommendation. I saw that one the other day. Truth be told, I'm a bit more concerned with any crossover that might be handled by the HU than the EQ. Another reason is that the MTX unit is a bit out of my price range. I picked up a new LC6i new on ebay yesterday for $80 and will give it a go. Currently, I have the eq on set up so that bass is just below even (45%, mid is at about 30% and treble is at 25%. Sounds okay, for being a bit sterile and mushy. Looking forward to better sound though.


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## dcbc (Sep 14, 2011)

dcbc said:


> Thanks for the recommendation. I saw that one the other day. Truth be told, I'm a bit more concerned with any crossover that might be handled by the HU than the EQ. Another reason is that the MTX unit is a bit out of my price range. I picked up a new LC6i new on ebay yesterday for $80 and will give it a go. Currently, I have the eq on set up so that bass is just below even (45%, mid is at about 30% and treble is at 25%. Sounds okay, for being a bit sterile and mushy. Looking forward to better sound though.




Quick follow up question. Were I to use the MTX unit or similar unit that adjusts the eq, would that render the eq controls on the headunit useless? If so, if I wanted any eq control, I would have to get an aftermarket eq, correct?


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## Bill6211789 (Dec 11, 2009)

dcbc said:


> Thanks for the recommendation. I saw that one the other day. Truth be told, I'm a bit more concerned with any crossover that might be handled by the HU than the EQ. Another reason is that the MTX unit is a bit out of my price range. I picked up a new LC6i new on ebay yesterday for $80 and will give it a go. Currently, I have the eq on set up so that bass is just below even (45%, mid is at about 30% and treble is at 25%. Sounds okay, for being a bit sterile and mushy. Looking forward to better sound though.





dcbc said:


> Quick follow up question. Were I to use the MTX unit or similar unit that adjusts the eq, would that render the eq controls on the headunit useless? If so, if I wanted any eq control, I would have to get an aftermarket eq, correct?


The MTX isnt a crossover/eq where you adjust it or it eliminnate the OEM HU's uses. It flattens the EQ the the deck will set when volume is adjusted, The OEM head units in these cars have a built in EQ tht changes the amount of bass going to the speakers as volume is increased, its a way to protect the cheap speakers we have. So as volume is turned up bass is going to be turned down, there is no way to change this. This is a BAD thing when using an aftermarket amp for the door speakers and even worse if you plan to add a sub

If you were to Us the Re-Q which is the only one of its kind, your OEM EQ (tht you can control) will still increase or decrease bass/mids/Treble and you will hear the change, the only thing the re-q will do is eliminate the turning down of certain frequencies when the volume is adjusted the the HU does on its own


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## dcbc (Sep 14, 2011)

Bill6211789 said:


> The MTX isnt a crossover/eq where you adjust it or it eliminnate the OEM HU's uses. It flattens the EQ the the deck will set when volume is adjusted, The OEM head units in these cars have a built in EQ tht changes the amount of bass going to the speakers as volume is increased, its a way to protect the cheap speakers we have. So as volume is turned up bass is going to be turned down, there is no way to change this. This is a BAD thing when using an aftermarket amp for the door speakers and even worse if you plan to add a sub
> 
> If you were to Us the Re-Q which is the only one of its kind, your OEM EQ (tht you can control) will still increase or decrease bass/mids/Treble and you will hear the change, the only thing the re-q will do is eliminate the turning down of certain frequencies when the volume is adjusted the the HU does on its own


Okay, that makes sense. Thanks for the explanation. So I have gotton some conflicting information researching this subject. We know that the RCD-510 does the EQ bass reduction with increased volume thing. But does it have its own crossover or are there, like I recall reading, passive crossovers for the fronts in the doors and a capcitor to separate the lows from the tweeters in the rear?

If the EQ is all it does, then the MTX Re-Q5 is the best bet for me. Actually, even if there is some crossover, the Re-Q5 does channel summing. So that may be the best bet. Just picked up one for $50 and will just sell the LC6i.


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## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

The RCD510, standard 8 speaker system, has four full-range amps built-in. Each amp drives a woofer and a tweeter, with a crossover cap in-series with the tweeter.


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## Bill6211789 (Dec 11, 2009)

CC'ed said:


> The RCD510, standard 8 speaker system, has four full-range amps built-in. Each amp drives a woofer and a tweeter, with a crossover cap in-series with the tweeter.


Yes any deck technically has a built in amplifier, externally amping will give you better sound out of the stock speakers. But yes there are cap resistors in the doors tht filter the low frequencies for the tweeters 

Sent from my EVO


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## dcbc (Sep 14, 2011)

Bill6211789 said:


> Yes any deck technically has a built in amplifier, externally amping will give you better sound out of the stock speakers. But yes there are cap resistors in the doors tht filter the low frequencies for the tweeters
> 
> Sent from my EVO


So if I get the MTX RE-Q5 to defeat the bass reduction issue, do I need to do any of the channel summing adjustments. From the sounds of it, the signal separation is happening in the doors and, therefore, summing isn't necessary, right?


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## Bill6211789 (Dec 11, 2009)

dcbc said:


> So if I get the MTX RE-Q5 to defeat the bass reduction issue, do I need to do any of the channel summing adjustments. From the sounds of it, the signal separation is happening in the doors and, therefore, summing isn't necessary, right?


Yes all the signal separation is done in the doors. Even if you planned on upgrading your door speakers in the future they would come with a crossover to tune the frequencies properly.

So with the Re-Q5 you'll be good to go :thumbup:


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## dcbc (Sep 14, 2011)

Bill6211789 said:


> Yes all the signal separation is done in the doors. Even if you planned on upgrading your door speakers in the future they would come with a crossover to tune the frequencies properly.
> 
> So with the Re-Q5 you'll be good to go :thumbup:


Very good. Picked a new one up for $50 and will sell the other stuff. Speakers got here this morning. Amp is ready. Just waiting on the RE-Q5.


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## Track5tar (Feb 16, 2010)

dcbc said:


> Very good. Picked a new one up for $50 and will sell the other stuff. Speakers got here this morning. Amp is ready. Just waiting on the RE-Q5.


Just FYI, im running that re-q as well and no remote wire is needed. It's actually pretty sweet. There's a remote wire for the re-q to the amp but you don't need to find a switched source in the car. The re-q has volume sensing and it kicks on the amp when there's volume/signal. Example: the amp still kicks on when I turn on the radio *without* my key.

I originally didn't know this so I ran the remote wire anyways haha.

Best LOC out there


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## dcbc (Sep 14, 2011)

Cool. Good to know. Where do you have yours mounted. I was thinking about putting it under the driver's seat so I could access it to tweak the sound.


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## CapiCC (Aug 25, 2011)

I just installed my system and I used an audiocontrol lc2i. It's the best 2 channel loc in the market. I tapped into wires behind my headunit. It sounds amazing. I currently have 2 jl 10w7 and a jl 1000/1 amp


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## dcbc (Sep 14, 2011)

CapiCC said:


> I just installed my system and I used an audiocontrol lc2i. It's the best 2 channel loc in the market. I tapped into wires behind my headunit. It sounds amazing. I currently have 2 jl 10w7 and a jl 1000/1 amp


Have you tried the MTX RE-Q5? I was going to go with the Lc6i, but it doesn't seem that the summing would do me any good and it doesn't correct for the RCD-510's pulling off the bass when the volume is increased. What do you like about the Lc2i that makes it the best? I currently have the Lc6i and the MTX and will probably sell one of them once I decide between the two.


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## CapiCC (Aug 25, 2011)

dcbc said:


> Have you tried the MTX RE-Q5? I was going to go with the Lc6i, but it doesn't seem that the summing would do me any good and it doesn't correct for the RCD-510's pulling off the bass when the volume is increased. What do you like about the Lc2i that makes it the best? I currently have the Lc6i and the MTX and will probably sell one of them once I decide between the two.



I have never tried the mtx re-q5 but from doing extensive research I ended up buying the lc2i it had the best review. What's best about it is the fact that you can tune it so it can correct the bass whenever you increase the volume. My system doesn't just consist of the jl amp and the 2 w7. I also changed out my tweets and mids. What I did was I got signal like previously said before the oem amp to the audiocontrol. I used the two front outputs from the radio. Then from my audiocontrol I sent signal to my clarion eq from there I sent everything to my amps. I currently have rockford t5002 rockford p4004 jl 1000. I did a big 3 but it's still dimming my lights. For mids I have 4 b&c 6pev13 and tweets 4 jbl gto tweets. Any more info


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## Track5tar (Feb 16, 2010)

dcbc said:


> Cool. Good to know. Where do you have yours mounted. I was thinking about putting it under the driver's seat so I could access it to tweak the sound.


 I double-sided tape it to the top in the trunk. Mine is right behind the trunk access. I set and forget so I'm never gonna mess with this settings again haha. I do have a knob I put in the tray in front of the shifter


CapiCC said:


> I just installed my system and I used an audiocontrol lc2i. *It's the best 2 channel loc in the marke*t. I tapped into wires behind my headunit. It sounds amazing. I currently have 2 jl 10w7 and a jl 1000/1 amp


 I beg to differ:laugh:

Haha just kidding, I'm in no position to say what is the best LOC. All I know is that my amp kicks on when I turn on the radio with no key


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## Track5tar (Feb 16, 2010)

Track5tar said:


> I double-sided tape it to the top in the trunk. Mine is right behind the trunk access. I set and forget so I'm never gonna mess with this settings again haha. I do have a knob I put in the tray in front of the shifter


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## dcbc (Sep 14, 2011)

CapiCC said:


> I have never tried the mtx re-q5 but from doing extensive research I ended up buying the lc2i it had the best review. What's best about it is the fact that you can tune it so it can correct the bass whenever you increase the volume. My system doesn't just consist of the jl amp and the 2 w7. I also changed out my tweets and mids. What I did was I got signal like previously said before the oem amp to the audiocontrol. I used the two front outputs from the radio. Then from my audiocontrol I sent signal to my clarion eq from there I sent everything to my amps. I currently have rockford t5002 rockford p4004 jl 1000. I did a big 3 but it's still dimming my lights. For mids I have 4 b&c 6pev13 and tweets 4 jbl gto tweets. Any more info


Cool. I did not know the audiocontrol gear did bass correction. I thought the Lci(x) units just did summing. Need to go read the manual. Still waiting on my Re-Q5, but have the Lci6 sitting next to me. Decisions decisions.


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## CapiCC (Aug 25, 2011)

dcbc said:


> Cool. I did not know the audiocontrol gear did bass correction. I thought the Lci(x) units just did summing. Need to go read the manual. Still waiting on my Re-Q5, but have the Lci6 sitting next to me. Decisions decisions.




I don't know the specs for the lc6 but I know the lc2i bass correction is nice


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## CapiCC (Aug 25, 2011)

dcbc said:


> Cool. I did not know the audiocontrol gear did bass correction. I thought the Lci(x) units just did summing. Need to go read the manual. Still waiting on my Re-Q5, but have the Lci6 sitting next to me. Decisions decisions.



What are you planning to install btw


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## dcbc (Sep 14, 2011)

CapiCC said:


> I don't know the specs for the lc6 but I know the lc2i bass correction is nice


Just looked it up. Lc6i doesn't do bass correction like the Lc2i. It just sums. So it looks like the MTX for me since I want to output all four channels to the amp.

Lc6i for sale!


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## dcbc (Sep 14, 2011)

CapiCC said:


> What are you planning to install btw


Keeping the stock head unit (RCD-510). 

MTX RE-Q5 to correct the EQ and output 4 channels line level to a Polk PA 500.4 4-channel amp (90 watts per channel RMS). 

Front Stage: CDT CL6E32 3-Way 6/3/1 Component
Rear Stage: CDT CL-61A/TW-24 2-way Component

Will give it some time to break in before I decide if I want to add a sub.


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## CapiCC (Aug 25, 2011)

dcbc said:


> Keeping the stock head unit (RCD-510).
> 
> MTX RE-Q5 to correct the EQ and output 4 channels line level to a Polk PA 500.4 4-channel amp (90 watts per channel RMS).
> 
> ...



Nice. As of now I need to upgrade my battery my lights are dimming alot.


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## Bill6211789 (Dec 11, 2009)

CapiCC said:


> Nice. As of now I need to upgrade my battery my lights are dimming alot.


Check ur battery and alternator first oem batter has been running my set up like dream. And changing to an aftermarket batter can be a PITA 

Sent from my EVO


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## CapiCC (Aug 25, 2011)

Bill6211789 said:


> Check ur battery and alternator first oem batter has been running my set up like dream. And changing to an aftermarket batter can be a PITA
> 
> Sent from my EVO


What's the proper way for me to check my battery and alternator. I did a big 3 already. Maybe i should a second battery


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## Bill6211789 (Dec 11, 2009)

CapiCC said:


> What's the proper way for me to check my battery and alternator. I did a big 3 already. Maybe i should a second battery


Got to the auto. Parts store and most can check them all while there in ur car, im on the oem batter with a 2400 watt JBL crown AMP w/ 5000watt competition sub, ms components in all 4 doors and a 4 ch 300 watt amp. I should be drawing wayyy more power then you and i have very little dimmimg issues 

Sent from my EVO


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## CapiCC (Aug 25, 2011)

Bill6211789 said:


> Got to the auto. Parts store and most can check them all while there in ur car, im on the oem batter with a 2400 watt JBL crown AMP w/ 5000watt competition sub, ms components in all 4 doors and a 4 ch 300 watt amp. I should be drawing wayyy more power then you and i have very little dimmimg issues
> 
> Sent from my EVO



Wow that's crazy. What subs are you currently running Orion hcca?


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## CapiCC (Aug 25, 2011)

Bill6211789 said:


> Got to the auto. Parts store and most can check them all while there in ur car, im on the oem batter with a 2400 watt JBL crown AMP w/ 5000watt competition sub, ms components in all 4 doors and a 4 ch 300 watt amp. I should be drawing wayyy more power then you and i have very little dimmimg issues
> 
> Sent from my EVO



I see you live in Clifton park. That's in new York correct


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## Bill6211789 (Dec 11, 2009)

CapiCC said:


> Wow that's crazy. What subs are you currently running Orion hcca?


Im running a single 15" JBL GTI, i have another one to throw in just need to build a box tht will fit. Everything in my system is JBL other then my Kenwood Excelon deck 






CapiCC said:


> I see you live in Clifton park. That's in new York correct


Yup just outside of Albany 


Sent from my EVO


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## dcbc (Sep 14, 2011)

I skimmed this quickly, but how much power are you running to cause the lights to dim. I doubt the one 90 watts rms x4 that I'm adding would be that much of a drain on the battery/alternator.


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## Epence (Jan 7, 2010)

isn't changing/rebuilding alternator to bigger AMP is the ideal way rather than changing battery for the long run..?


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## Trade-N-Games (Feb 22, 2008)

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...en-cc-build-jml-audio-st-louis-phase-1-a.html
My link to my build in CC. I have done almost all the things you are asking some easy some hard. Latest thing is new battery and all my dimming problms were solved but Im over 1000watts rms


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## Trade-N-Games (Feb 22, 2008)

My battery setup can only be done if you ditch the stock airbox for APR since that frees up some room


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## dcbc (Sep 14, 2011)

Trade-N-Games said:


> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...en-cc-build-jml-audio-st-louis-phase-1-a.html
> My link to my build in CC. I have done almost all the things you are asking some easy some hard. Latest thing is new battery and all my dimming problems were solved but I'm over 1000watts rms


I have poured over that thread and another one (I think it was Jholmes) more times than I can remember. I have the APR air box in case I need to mimic that part of the build. But I am probably going to pay somebody to install this for me. I have done installs on boats before, but there is far less to tear out to make that work than there is on this car. Plus, reading Jholmes post, I understand he put 5.25" components in the rear due to fitment. Everything I have read otherwise says that 6.5" speakers will work. I am hoping for my installer to have a "make it fit" attitude.


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## nstabl (May 7, 2006)

I added a 12" alpine type r and pushing 500 watts to it (rockford) - I have my bass 2 clicks up from all the way down, put mids and treble to your preference, and it sounds unbelievably great and will save your speakers. the local audio shop (soundman) can't believe everything is stock with the exception of my sub


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## Trade-N-Games (Feb 22, 2008)

dcbc said:


> I have poured over that thread and another one (I think it was Jholmes) more times than I can remember. I have the APR air box in case I need to mimic that part of the build. But I am probably going to pay somebody to install this for me. I have done installs on boats before, but there is far less to tear out to make that work than there is on this car. Plus, reading Jholmes post, I understand he put 5.25" components in the rear due to fitment. Everything I have read otherwise says that 6.5" speakers will work. I am hoping for my installer to have a "make it fit" attitude.


Ya 6.5 are to big for rear doors for an easy fit. However if you just wanted to pay a few hours of install cost they could be done but really I would not do it. By cheaper ones in smaller size for rear doors and dont worry about tweets in the high back door since they are 4 inches away from your ear. If you really want to spend money to fit something bigger put them in custom rear deck.


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## CapiCC (Aug 25, 2011)

dcbc said:


> I skimmed this quickly, but how much power are you running to cause the lights to dim. I doubt the one 90 watts rms x4 that I'm adding would be that much of a drain on the battery/alternator.


I'm running about 1900 watts. You should not have a problem


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## CapiCC (Aug 25, 2011)

Trade-N-Games said:


> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...en-cc-build-jml-audio-st-louis-phase-1-a.html
> My link to my build in CC. I have done almost all the things you are asking some easy some hard. Latest thing is new battery and all my dimming problms were solved but Im over 1000watts rms



What battery are you currently running


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## CapiCC (Aug 25, 2011)

Trade-N-Games said:


> Ya 6.5 are to big for rear doors for an easy fit. However if you just wanted to pay a few hours of install cost they could be done but really I would not do it. By cheaper ones in smaller size for rear doors and dont worry about tweets in the high back door since they are 4 inches away from your ear. If you really want to spend money to fit something bigger put them in custom rear deck.



I wish I took some pics of my install but I got to fit my 6.5 in the rear. My speaker is actually 6.9 and they fit ok I had to remove this ring that the rear door had for the stock 5.25


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## Bill6211789 (Dec 11, 2009)

dcbc said:


> I skimmed this quickly, but how much power are you running to cause the lights to dim. I doubt the one 90 watts rms x4 that I'm adding would be that much of a drain on the battery/alternator.


Im running about 2500 watts stock battery and alternator. 

Sent from my EVO


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## dcbc (Sep 14, 2011)

I see. Good to know. Hopefully with the 360 watts rms I'm powering, I won't run into similar problems. I have my install scheduled for 9 a.m. tomorrow. Wish me luck.


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## dcbc (Sep 14, 2011)

Trade-N-Games said:


> Ya 6.5 are to big for rear doors for an easy fit. However if you just wanted to pay a few hours of install cost they could be done but really I would not do it. By cheaper ones in smaller size for rear doors and dont worry about tweets in the high back door since they are 4 inches away from your ear. If you really want to spend money to fit something bigger put them in custom rear deck.


Well, at this point, I already have the 6.5s for the rear. Price for install is the same. So this is going to be the installer's to deal with. They have it in their system that 6.5s will fit. So they can't very well complain to me about the size.


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## cosmic_beetle (May 25, 2003)

I added a sub and battery to mine:



































I put an extra stinger battery where the VR6 mounts theirs (in the trunk behind the left side panel)


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## dcbc (Sep 14, 2011)

So you're saying add a sub ... or two.


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## xx4u2nvxx (Nov 28, 2010)

@Trade-N-Games: Nice battery setup!

@cosmic_beetle: VERY nice, you still have access to your spare?


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## cosmic_beetle (May 25, 2003)

Still have full access.


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## dcbc (Sep 14, 2011)

dcbc said:


> Well, at this point, I already have the 6.5s for the rear. Price for install is the same. So this is going to be the installer's to deal with. They have it in their system that 6.5s will fit. So they can't very well complain to me about the size.


It's in the shop for the install. They are giving me a good deal on the install because I told them I would leave it there for a few days so they could work on it in between the rush jobs, i.e., people who actually bought the overpriced gear they sell at the shop and want it installed that day.

Installer has been very cool to deal with and seems to really care about his work (just what I wanted). He has the passenger side front and rear doors done. I allowed him to sacrifice the factory speakers to make the install easier (cut them out). He needed spacers to get the 6.5s to fit in the spot where the factory 7s were, but they are in, clear the window, and, according to him, sound really good even just running on the RCD510. I was actually surprised to see that he didn't need more room considering that the front mid drivers are 2.75" top mount depth and the rears are 2.5". But he says he checked the clearance and they were fine.

I may get it back today according to him, but seeing where he is in the process, I am skeptical. But I'm working on patience because I think my CC is in good hands.


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## dcbc (Sep 14, 2011)

dcbc said:


> I see. Good to know. Hopefully with the 360 watts rms I'm powering, I won't run into similar problems. I have my install scheduled for 9 a.m. tomorrow. Wish me luck.


Oh, and the first installer I took it to (a week ago) price jumped me when I showed up that morning. I took it to the place I should have taken it originally this past Monday.


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## Track5tar (Feb 16, 2010)

CapiCC said:


> Nice. As of now I need to upgrade my battery my lights are dimming alot.


My lights are dimming as well lol, 500 rms. Dimming not bad though



xx4u2nvxx said:


> @Trade-N-Games: Nice battery setup!
> 
> @cosmic_beetle: VERY nice, you still have access to your spare?


who needs a spare! Lol get AAA and you're good to go


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## JHolmes (May 14, 2010)

dcbc said:


> I have poured over that thread and another one (I think it was Jholmes) more times than I can remember. I have the APR air box in case I need to mimic that part of the build. But I am probably going to pay somebody to install this for me. I have done installs on boats before, but there is far less to tear out to make that work than there is on this car. Plus, reading Jholmes post, I understand he put 5.25" components in the rear due to fitment. Everything I have read otherwise says that 6.5" speakers will work. I am hoping for my installer to have a "make it fit" attitude.


Actually, I just went with Hertz MLK 165's up front, active using the stock head unit, Bit-Ten and DRC, no rear fill at all. Hertz HX250 sub and Alpine PDX-F6 and M6. 200 watts RMS to each front speaker and 700 RMS to the sub. 

Waiting on the final piece to be finished. 




Sent from the future using Tapatalk


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## dcbc (Sep 14, 2011)

JHolmes said:


> Actually, I just went with Hertz MLK 165's up front, active using the stock head unit, Bit-Ten and DRC, no rear fill at all. Hertz HX250 sub and Alpine PDX-F6 and M6. 200 watts RMS to each front speaker and 700 RMS to the sub.
> 
> Waiting on the final piece to be finished.
> 
> ...


Awesome. Bet it sounds incredible. Hoping to have mine back tomorrow.


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## dcbc (Sep 14, 2011)

dcbc said:


> Awesome. Bet it sounds incredible. Hoping to have mine back tomorrow.


Well, four-and-a-half days later and I finally have my car back. It took a while, but I got a pretty good price break for my willingness to let them work on it in between jobs of people who bought their equipment there. Since I have more time than money (and a spare SUV), it worked out well for me.

Bottom line is that everything sounds great and I'm thrilled with the upgrade. I can only imagine that it will sound even better when the speakers have a chance to break in. Spacers were required for each 6.5" woofer (seemed like more of a diameter issue than a depth issue, but the tweets and 3" mids went in without any extra hardware. Amp is mounted to the rear deck in the trunk and the LOC is under the driver's seat. 

Now I just need to figure out how I should set my EQ. Before, I had the mid and treble dropped way off. The way it is now, I have the bass and treble down a bit and the mids just below even (shallow inverted V). Still playing, but I'm getting it dialed in.


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