# MegaSquirt-II - How To



## g60peru (Jul 2, 2002)

*INTRO*
As many now MegaSquirt-II is a DIY standalone engine management system designed by Bowling & Grippo. The code it runs is opensource so if you can program in C you can pretty much do what you want with it. The program that you use to configure and control MS-II is called MegaTune (by Eric Fahlgren) and it's free.
The purpose of the thread is of course to help other people install MS-II on their cars. I will describe the way I installed MS-II in my 1990 G60 Corrado as a replacement for Digifant. I´m using stock sensors and no add on module to control the engine (MS-II does everything). I'm also using an Innovate LC-1 wideband O2 sensor directly connected to the MS-II. Although you can also use a narrowband O2 sensor it's strongly recommended to use a wideband to do your WOT full load tuning.
I´ll make one post for each section:
*- Assembly
- Installation
- Configuration
- Tuning*
I'll be updating them with any new info / contributions / suggestions.
First off you´ll have to spend a lot of time reading in the MS-II homepage:
http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/index.htm
The MegaSquirt forums:
http://www.msefi.com/
And the MegaTune Help homepage:
http://www.megamanual.com/megatune.htm
*COMMENTS*
I've been using my car as a daily driver since I installed MS-II (over 6 months now) and have NEVER had a single MS-II related problem. Tuning has become much easier with practice, but a WB O2 sensor is a MUST. There are still some little things I miss from Digifant like closed loop idle control or ultra smooth acceleration enrichment, but overall I'm totally satisfied.
I've found that AE is the hardest to tune, and I'm starting to feel that I'm never gonna match Digifant's smoothness, no matter what.
Make sure you get a good laptop and a show a friend how to use MegaTune, you'll need both. I've been using a USB to serial adapter without problems, just configure it the way it says on the MegaSquirt forums.
My biggest issue right now as you will see in the logs is my stupid stock intercooler







. It may be enough for a stock G60, but after being able to analyze it's performance on my logs I've come to realize it's not worth a crap in my car. The high intake temps suck not only becuase it's a less dense charge, but also because it makes the engine much more prone to knock, so you end up loosing lots of power. I'm gonna go the air/water way, modifying the stock intercooler, and adding a radiator behind the grill. When the setup is finished I'm gonna probably post it in another thread. The other thing I want to install is water injection, but that may come a little later.

*Thread history:*
- 06/10/2006 First Post
- 23/10/2006 General update, specially Configuration and Tuning
- 15/04/2007  General update, specially boosted maps and logs in the Tuning section
Next, go on to the main sections:


_Modified by g60peru at 3:58 PM 4-15-2007_


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## g60peru (Jul 2, 2002)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (g60peru)*

*ASSEMBLY*
I followed the V3 PCB board assembly instructions in:
http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/V3assemble.htm
I'm using the following modifications:
- Hall / Optical circuit
- PWM Idle valve using a TIP120, TIP121 or TIP122 (to control the ISV valve)
- High Current Ignition driver (using the VB921 coil driver chip)
- IAC stepper outputs (to use them as general purpose outputs: water injection, fan control, etc)

All these modifications are properly described on the official assembly guide.


_Modified by g60peru at 1:35 PM 4-15-2007_


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## g60peru (Jul 2, 2002)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (g60peru)*

*INSTALLATION*
*MOUNTING*
I mounted the MS-II box on the same location the Digifant uses.
I wraped the MS-II box with rubber and used large zip-ties to hold it to the stock ECU bracket:

*HARNESS*
I fabricated a new wiring harness using the stock harness as a model:

I fabricated a new harness because my harness was in bad shape. If yours is ok I think it's best to use the stock harness and just change the ECU plug. It would help to take it off the car to remove the plastic covers, check if everything is OK, remove the wires you're not gonna use and put some new heat / friction protectors. The reason for reusing the stock harness is that it's made of very good automotive wire with very good quality crimped connections.
If you fabricate your harness be very carefull with the cable lengths for each sensor / plug. I was, and even so I had to modify some branches because they were a little long / short once fitted in the car.
Try to use good automotive wire (SXL, GXL or TXL) and always use crimped connectors and terminals together with a good quality crimping tool. Soldered connections are much more prone to fatigue damage, but are better than a crappy crimped connection. Use heatshrink tubing everywhere and use high quality, high temp, expensive electrical tape that will last and handle the heat without becoming a honey-soaked brittle crap







.
This is my new harness' diagram:

And this is how it looks like in real life:

The numbers next to the sensors / plugs are pin numbers. The other markings are "color - wire gauge" code. The color acronyms are the same the Bentley uses. If someone knows a good program to "translate" this and the other diagrams to a better PC format it would be great. By the way, "culata" means "cylinder head"







.

As I said before all the sensors I used are stock:
*KNOCK SENSOR*
I'm not currently using the knock sensor because it's not that easy to implement in MS-II because the knock sensor's signal is hard to interpret. I plan on connecting it to my laptop's MIC-IN plug and using special software (Spectrogram) to visually identify knock. Good info on this here:
http://home.netcom.com/~bsunda...s.htm
These are some proposed circuits to build your own knock signal conditioner (you could do it on your MS-II proto area, I haven't tested any of these):

and

There's also a probably much better option: An already assembled knock detection box called KnockSense. It's sold by Boris (well known in the http://www.msefi.com forums) at:
http://www.viatrack.ca
and he tunes it specifically for your engine so I guess it works pretty well (although I haven't tried it either).
*CLT SENSOR*
I'm using the stock sensor as the diagram describes.
I calibrated MS-II using the following values:
0 ºC = 6000 ohms
25 ºC = 2000 ohms
100 ºC = 200 ohms
I measured them putting the sensors in boiling water, iced water and ambient temperature (25 ºC at that time). They are in the correct range according to this graph from the Bentley:

*IAT SENSOR*
I'm using the stock sensor (not using the CO pot. pin) as the diagram describes.
I calibrated MS-II using the same values as for the CLT sensor because they were very very close. The graph in the Bentley is also the same for both.
*IAC*
I'm using the stock Bosch PWM Idle Air Control valve (the famous ISV). MS-II doesn't currently support closed loop idle so I'm using it mainly for cold start help. It works great!
*TPS*
As our engines don't have a proper TPS I did some modifications. The best option is to get a G60 automatic transimission TB with a TPS, but as they're hard (I'd say impossible) to get over here I modified the idle and WOT switches like this:

to get a "three state" TPS: 0 V for idle (no throttle), 2.5 V for mid throttle and 5 V for WOT.
I don't plan on using TPS acceleration enrichment so this shouldn't be a problem. I only want the TPS for:
- Flood clear mode
- Closed loop idle control (future)
- Water injection control? (future)
- Better log analysis
It has worked very good until know and I can see perfetly 0 % off the pedal, 50 % on mid throttle and 100 % at WOT.
*HALL SENSOR*
This is the sensor MS-II uses to determine RPMs and to control ignition. It's located in our stock distibutor.
Ours is a "sinking" Hall sensor. That means it puts out an open circuit - short to ground - open circuit - short to ground - open circuit ...... signal. Although there are some simple mods you can make to your MS-II's hall sensor circuit to properly work with such a signal I decided to modify the sensor this way:

To get a nice 0 V - 5 V square wave that works perfectly with MS-II without any mods. It's just a pull-up resistor to get rid of the "open circuit" part of the wave. The rising edge of the wave comes when the rotor is pointing at the marking on the distributor's base.
I set the engine at 6 º BTDC using the marking on the flywheel and then carefully turned the distributor (with a multitester hooked up) until I saw it was exactly at the rising edge. That makes sure that MS-II gets the rising edge exactly at 6 º BTDC (which is what it uses for cranking and what you enter in the "Trigger offset" field when you configure it, more on this in the Configuration post).
*COIL*
I'm using the stock coil driven by the VB921 chip.
*INJECTORS*
I'm using 4 Bosch (0 280 150 558) 440 cc/min green top high impedance injectors. They're a little oversized for this application but that should give me room to properly tune the high RPM / high load areas.
As of now I'm getting a pretty good idle with a +- 2.0 ms PW which is acceptable.
I'm still looking for a good way to properly estimate the injector open time (the time from the PW that the injectors are opening / closing, i.e. not injecting any fuel) for this injectors.
I have wired them as "batch fire" (all injectors fire at the same time) because Digifant uses them like this and I may be using MS-II's second injector driver for a more sophisticated water injection system.
*O2 SENSOR: LC-1*
I'm using Innovate´s LC-1 wideband O2 sensor. I've wired and configured it so that it directly feeds MS-II with an analog signal that corresponds to 10:1 (0 V) - 20:1 (5 V) AFR. I'm using the second analog output for my AFR gauge in the cockpit (0 V = 20:1 and 1 V = 10:1).
*MAP SENSOR*
I'm using the 250 kPa MAP sensor that comes with MS-II. I noticed I had A LOT of MAP noise when I raised the Lag Factor:

You can clearly see how it drove pretty much everything else crazy. specially mapDOT which made AE tuning almost impossible. I tried to lower the Lag Factor a lot and it was much better, but the car was really unresponsive with the over lagged MAP signal. After some experimentation I found out the noise wasn´t electrical but were real, fast, air waves in the MAP signal hose. I ended fitting a restriction followed by a "buffer" space that looked more or less like this:

It stabilized the MAP signal very well as I can use a Lag Factor of 90 now with almost no noise.

The finished install looks like this:

As you can see my air intake sucks (literally







) right now because the engine has to suck air through the intercooler + that long hose, but it's simpler to keep it like that until I can install back the charger. You can see in the Tuning post that it really raises pumping friction losses a lot as MAP drops considerably in a WOT run.
A closer look at the MS-II box + harness:



_Modified by g60peru at 2:14 AM 10-23-2006_


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## g60peru (Jul 2, 2002)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (g60peru)*

*CONFIGURATION*
Here are my main configuration options:
*General Settings:*

I raised all my Lag Factors to 90 because the car feels much more responsive like that. MS-II sees the sensors' changes much quicker.
*Idle Control:*

*Injector Characteristics:*

I would really like to find a way to measure my injectors' real Open Time because after a lot of reading I'm sure it can affect your tuning quite a lot.
*Injection Control:*

*EGO Control*

It took me a while to find good EGO Control settings. With the ones I'm using I get no oscillation and the response is pretty quick. I'm sure there's a way to find out your optimal settings, but I think in real life it's much easier to fiddle around with the settings until you kinda get the hang of what does what (read a lot about PID controllers so you understand it better) and come up with acceptable values (at least for me it was).
*Ignition Settings:*



_Modified by g60peru at 2:04 PM 4-15-2007_


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## g60peru (Jul 2, 2002)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (g60peru)*

*TUNING*
The engine I'm using is:
- 1.8 8V PG with stock pistons and rods
- Balanced bottom end
- Ported head
- 40.5 mm intake and 34 mm exhaust valves with 7 mm stems (undercut to 6.5 mm)
- Ported intake and exhaust manifolds and ported TB
- TT 268 cam with adjustable cam gear (@ 0 º)
- Head decked (1.2 mm) so I have about 8.6:1 CR
- Ported charger with 62 mm pulley (puts out about 15 psi with current configuration)
- 440 cc injectors with adjustable FPR @ 3.0 bar base pressure
- Stock intercooler (I'm looking for upgrade options, URGENTLY NOW







)
- Stock 02A gearbox and clutch (with 5.4 kg lightened flywheel)
- Solid motor mounts
- 2.25 " no cat free exhaust
All maps and info I post will be based on this engine.
These are all new tables since I reinstalled my charger, so all the boosted areas are mapped now. I've been daily driving my car for about six months now and have NEVER had a MS-II related problem.
*VE Table:*

*AFR Table*

I have aimed for very lean cruise areas and about 12.0:1 in heavy load (high boost / high RPM) areas. The car only stumbles when I get past 17.0:1 AFR. I tried to have the idle area more or less stoich (14.7:1) but the TT 268 cam doesn´t seem to like it as idle gets very unstable. When I set it to 13.0:1 it idles even better than with Digifant.
*Spark Advance Table:*

You can see I have a LOT of advance at idle. I thought I had configured something wrong or maybe my cam had skipped a tooth or something, but after a LOT of testing I came to the conclusion that everything was correctly timed / configured and +-40 º BTDC is just what my engine likes at idle. That's when I get the most stable idle with the lowest MAP. It's probably because of the TT 268 cam and other mods my engine has.
Tuning the Spark Advance Table has been kinda hard. Off boost is specially hard since I can't get it to knock using 98 RON (about 92 AKI) gasoline, so I just tune it by feel, logic, table smoothness, etc. It works ok, but I might me loosing some MPG in some areas. On boost tuning has been a little more easy: advance till I hear knock, then retard about 3 degrees. Always letting the pedal go as soon as I hear knock, and checking the plugs as often as I can.
This is the stock G60 Spark Advance Table (taken from the VAG Self Study Programme No. 103 about the G60 engine), it may help you get a good starting point depending on you engine mods.:

*Idle PWM Dutycycle Table:*

I flattened it a little as I realized it felt better to have a lower (about 1500 RPM) but longer lasting cold idle.
*Cranking Pulsewidth Table:*

*Warmup Wizard Table:*


*MAT Based Timing Retard Table:*

I had to start using the MAT based timing retard because I started to get knock after some hard runs on areas where I hadn't knock before. After looking at the logs I discovered I was getting intake temps as high as 90 º C!. I just pulled more timing on high intake temps until the knock was gone. As you can figure the stock intercooler is totally worthless for my setup, becoming my first upgrade priority.
*Acceleration Wizard*

Since all the tables were pretty well tuned already, I decided to finally start tuning AE (Acceleration Enrichment). Since I have no TPS I'm using MAP based AE exclusively (Digifant also uses MAP based AE so it should be enough). I've found that AE is the hardest thing to tune for me. The values I'm currently using feel pretty good, and look good on the logs, but it seems that no matter what, I can't get the smoothness I had with Digifant.
I still haven't tried X-Tau AE, but it sounds good in theory and I've read some good comments so I want to try it when I have the time.
*Idle:*
This is the way my idle looks like as of now:

With my setup I have the smoothest idle at 1000 RPM and about 13.0 AFR. I've leaned it a little bit to save gas, and it has become a litlle more jumpy, but bearable.
I like this idle much better than Digifant's. The only thing I'm missing is closed loop idle control as it would let me have a 1000 RPM idle (whta I think would be optimal) without bogging down when I turn on my headlights / fresh air fan (It drops to 1000 RPM when i turn them on now). If I turn on the A/C the engine simply dies. I did some experimenting and found out I'd have to set the idle at about 1500 RPM in order to be able to use A/C without touching the throttle pedal. For now I just use my "right foot closed loop idle control" when using A/C







.
*WOT:*
Here you can see a 4th gear WOT run until +- 6000 RPM:

AFR closely follows the AFRtarget and the car feels pretty good. You can see the stock intercooler can't handle it anymore: MAT rises like crazy, even though it's a 4th gear run, so the intercooler is getting a LOT of air. You can clearly see timing being pulled as MAT gets higher.
Here you can see a hard pull (1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears) from a full stop:

AFR and timing look good. You can see the heatsink effect of the intercooler, as it keeps MAT low at first until it's heatsoaked. Then it stays hot even after I let off the pedal. It first cools off completely after a long while of cruising.


_Modified by g60peru at 3:48 PM 4-15-2007_


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (g60peru)*

Looking good so far Eduardo. I should finally have mine on my car soon as well. It has only been built for 6 months. ...too many projects

As far as knock sensor, you "could" build your own in the proto area on the board, but Boris (Well known on msefi.com) sells a ready to go kit cheap and wires right into MS. It is called "KnockSense" -> http://www.viatrack.ca/ 
He tunes the circuit specifically for your engine specs when ordered to filter out false positive knock. This is the hardest part to the whole knock circuit and is why a home rolled one will generally not be as good as what Boris offers.
You will need to check to make sure the MSII processor/codebase supports, but I assume it will. I am running the MSI processor on the v3 board using the MsnS-e "extra" code.
NOTE: For anyone playing at home, the base MS hardware on the ver3 main board is pretty much the same for MSI and MSII except for the CPU and a couple of jumpers and such during the build. The Codebases are completely different however so you should research what one best suits your needs.
Shawn


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## g60peru (Jul 2, 2002)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (sdezego)*

Thanks Shawn, I already updated the Installation post.
Eduardo


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## G60 CAB (Oct 26, 2003)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (g60peru)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Great write-up.


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## g60peru (Jul 2, 2002)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (G60 CAB)*

I finished the install today!
I even had time to do some tuning. I just have to finish some details (like installing a freaking ABS front wheel sensor) and I think I'm ready to go for a drive! (and start the real tuning







)
I already update the installtion post and added pics.








Eduardo


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## groesche (Dec 18, 2000)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (g60peru)*

Now this is cool http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Great work! This might be my next step, if I can ever find the time.
Can you get a plug to go on the stock harness or do you _have_ to basterdize an ECU? My harness is in great shape. I've already pulled out ever pin out of each connector, inspected the crimp, shrink tubed any very small chaffed spots, re-assembled and installed using dialectric grease. It would make for switching back and forth easier too.....just incase.


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## g60peru (Jul 2, 2002)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (groesche)*

I drove it yesterday night for the first time!!!!!








It was actually VERY drivable without any fine tuning. I tuned the VE table for about an hour on different conditions using Autotune. It got me a very nice table, altough with some peaks I had to flatten out myself.
It behaves so well I even drove it today to college!!! Without even using the laptop!!!!!! Got up, got in, turned the key and drove over here!! Wooooohooooooo















I'm not using AE right now to keep it simple, but it almost feels like I don't need it. I only get stumbles when I really slam on the throttle.
Right now my AFR is doing pretty much what it's supposed to so it looks EGO Control is well tuned.
I'll be updating the posts with the new info / pics / logs later.
groesche:
I don't think you can get such a plug, you'll either have to get it from another Digifant ECU, forget about the stock plug completely (like I did) or put an universal plug between the harness and the Digifant plug so you can swap ECU plugs (both ECU plugs having the same universal plug the harness has).
Eduardo


_Modified by g60peru at 10:21 AM 10-9-2006_


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## groesche (Dec 18, 2000)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (g60peru)*

Could you _PLEASE_ add a post for a shopping parts list that you used with links to where you sourced the itmes from too http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif ?
Pretty Please










_Modified by groesche at 1:47 PM 10-9-2006_


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## groesche (Dec 18, 2000)

Sorry but this post has seamed to fuel my interest (no pun intended







)
RE #1: You're modified Hall & TPS
Where & how did you add the additional circuit(s)? Seperate Bread board? And where did you install it, inside or outside the MS enclosure?
RE #2: Knock Sensor
Isn't this somewhat critical to pre-detonation or pinging? Can you really run without it? Or does MS make up for it somewhere else?
RE #3: Relay Board?
Are you running a relay board at all? Do you need it for the ISV (FIdle-right)?
RE #4: LC-1
The only diference between the LC-1 & LM-1 is the "box" right? You can see all the pertinant info via MS instead of the "box"-right?
Edit: added RE #4!


_Modified by groesche at 4:32 PM 10-9-2006_


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## g60peru (Jul 2, 2002)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (groesche)*

Sorry for the delay, I've been a little busy in the last days.
I've made a LOT more tuning and the car is almost perfectly drivable right now. Idle and other aspects are alreay better than with Digifant (smooth 1100 rpm @ 17 InHG). The only thing I really miss is closed loop idle control (but it's coming!). I have yet to fine tune cold starts, AE and the Ignition map.
EGO correction is working almost perfectly and I can see the AFR follow my AFRTarget very closely. The VE map is almost perfect for my AFR map now (although only up to 100 kPa because I have no charger yet!







.
I'll be updating the posts with maps, pictures and informaiton in the following days.

groesche:
A#1: The cicuist are in the harness, ver close to the sensors' plugs
A#2: It is very important, although you can tune you car without the knock sensor if you're very carefull, know what you're doing and have a wb o2 sensor.
A#3: No realy board, no need. The stock wiring / relays are PERFECT fot this setup.
A#4: Yes, the only difference is the "box", plugs, etc. You can use the LC-1's analog outputs are very accurate, and you can always use the digital output with your laptop (through the serial port) and LogWorks2.
Eduardo


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## groesche (Dec 18, 2000)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (g60peru)*

Don't be sorry 'cause your busy & I'm not







I like what your doing http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
RE A#1: Any problems if the circuitry is moved "behind" the ECU plug (ie, between the ECU plug & MS)? If I do this, I'd like to be able to switch back-and-forth without changing the wiring. 
RE A#2: Didn't you say you are not doing wideband? How did you tune for no knock then? "If you know what you are doing....." I just might be up a creek without a paddle then








RE A#3: MS has enough power to run the ISV? Or is it relayed outside of the ECU to turn it on?
RE A#4: After a lot more reading, I understand this better now.


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## g60peru (Jul 2, 2002)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (groesche)*

Ok I have done some improvements in this two weeks, specially regarding the jittery MAP signal and some cold start behaviour. I also tuned the whole VE table now, only till 100 kPa though because I have no charger yet (anybody have a spare pulley side G60 casing for sale?). Everything is getting updated in the proper posts above.
groesche:
A#1: I think it would be actually better to have the extra circuitry behind the ECUplug (MS-II proto area for example) as it would be less prone to vibration failure. I was actually a little lazy there as it was easier to make it next to the plug.
A#2: Where did I say I wasn't using a wideband? I've been tuning with the LC-1 since the beginning. Tuning the spark table has been very hard, read about it in my Tuning post (I've updated it).
A#3: In order for the MS-II to drive the ISV you have to make some mods (you use another transistor). It's in the Assembly post.
A#4: Great!








Eduardo


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## 27psiBoom (Jun 13, 2003)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (g60peru)*

OMG FAQ material








Congrats on the install, it was a perfect clean job, it's a *must *for anyone going the MS-II route


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## poorman (Apr 30, 2004)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (27psiBoom)*

speechless


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## tdub785 (Jun 4, 2005)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (g60peru)*

you dont use a relay board????


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## g60peru (Jul 2, 2002)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (tdub785)*

No, all the relays in the Corrado are perfect to use with MS-II. I basically used the same wiring diagram Digifant uses, only replacing it with MS-II.
Eduardo


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## tdub785 (Jun 4, 2005)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (tdub785)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tdub785* »_you dont use a relay board????
interesting..... this is my set up in my mk2 g60


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## g60peru (Jul 2, 2002)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (tdub785)*

Looks very nice / clean.
How did you fabricate your harness?
What intake manifold is that?
What's up with that "Ultra-Coil"?
Eduardo


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## S3-4ttro (Aug 11, 2006)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (g60peru)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## tdub785 (Jun 4, 2005)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (g60peru)*


_Quote, originally posted by *g60peru* »_Looks very nice / clean.
How did you fabricate your harness?
What intake manifold is that?
What's up with that "Ultra-Coil"?
Eduardo
jamie richardson @darklighter tunning made the harness. the manifold is a stock 8v dig2, i just adapted the t/b to use the diverter, the ultra coil is left from my jacobs ignition i bought in the 1990's


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## EuroFreak (Oct 8, 2001)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (g60peru)*

Awesome post g60peru! I have been thinking about doing this for well over a year or two but dreading the actual downtime its going to take while I transition. Considering the ongoing problems/quirks with digifant I have been having and the info in this post I might think about doing this sooner.
As far as the AC idle goes, is there anyway to program inputs into MS to change the idle when the AC is on? Same concept would apply to your headlights, fan, etc. 
On that same principal have you guys discovered a way to change VE maps or other parameters on the fly using a simple switched input? I just hooked up the "switch" option on my SNS chip for the high octane program and its quite groovy. 91 to 100 octane timing on the fly.


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## LooseNut (Nov 27, 2001)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (EuroFreak)*

Hey, just thought I'd show how to keep the stock harness if one decides to go the complicated route like me. 
You'll have to gut an A2 ECU and cut the connector leads off the PC board to make a custom plug:








Drill a hole in the heat sink to route the wires to the leads:








Figure out where you want the wires to go and how they relate to the stock wiring, solder, put the box back on and voila. A big oversized plug that's waterproof and bolts down in the stock location.








The reason to do this is to replace your time spent re-wiring the harness and relay with time spent analyzing the wiring diagrams and just making a few snips here and there. It's easily converted back to digifant if I ever decide to. Cheaper this way also. I'll do a seperate write-up when my time comes.


_Modified by LooseNut at 11:05 AM 11-14-2006_


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## ozzman_g7 (Feb 12, 2003)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (groesche)*


_Quote, originally posted by *groesche* »_Could you _PLEASE_ add a post for a shopping parts list that you used with links to where you sourced the itmes from too http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif ?
_Modified by groesche at 1:47 PM 10-9-2006_

Yes, where did you buy the megasquirt?


_Modified by ozzman_g7 at 8:46 PM 12-25-2006_


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## ozzman_g7 (Feb 12, 2003)

bump


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## g60peru (Jul 2, 2002)

*Re: (ozzman_g7)*

Just did an update (everything is in the first posts).
I bought the MS-II online in DIYAutoTune.com by the way.
Eduardo


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## MikkiJayne (Jan 1, 2007)

*Re: (g60peru)*

Excellent writeup http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I'm doing MSII V3 on a 16V with an M62 so this is extremely helpful!
Mikki x


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## 20v_boost (Jan 29, 2002)

*Re: (g60peru)*

First of all, thanks for the awesome write-up. I'll be installing a MSII on a v3 board in my 16v turbo scirocco project soon.
You mentioned the engine bogging down when you turn on your A/C. Can't you set up megasquirt to open your ISV a set amount (Maybe 15% more) whenever your A/C turns on? It's not closed loop but it should work. My 8v scirocco had two "fast idle" solenoids instead of an ISV. One of them turned on with the A/C compressor. It bumped the idle up and worked great.
I'm debating what kind of idle control I'll be using with my megasquirt. I'm torn between a GM stepper control, or an MKIII Throttle body with whatever motor controls it's idle.


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## noizze (Aug 19, 2003)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (g60peru)*



g60peru said:


> I would really like to find a way to measure my injectors' real Open Time because after a lot of reading I'm sure it can affect your tuning quite a lot.
> There is one easy method to determine your opening times.
> Change your # of squirts to a higher or lower number, and see how your mixture changes. If it goes richer, then lower your opening times. If it goes leaner then raise it. At an idle you should be able to change the number of squirts and not see any appreciable change. I found mine worked best @ 1.3 with the stock injectors, & 1.2 with the aftermarket 36Lbs unit I put in. I found this on the MS site a long time ago, & it works a treat. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
> The only other way is to setup a test rig to measure them using the special injector test function in the MS2 2.6+ code. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif
> Also watch your battery voltage compensation, Corrados are notorious for having flaky electricals. Try turning on all major power consumers on in the car and watch your voltage dive. I used to see 13.2v @ idle & 12.8 or less with everything on. Even less sometimes on a really hot day stuck in traffic.


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## g60peru (Jul 2, 2002)

*Re: (20v_boost)*

20v_boost:
I could have MS-II do that but I'd have to modify the code, and I'm not that good in C programming.
What i'm gonna do probably is just wire a typical fast idle solenoid so it opens whenever the A/C compressor is on. Nothing to do with MS-II or the ISV but it should work just fine.
Eduardo


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## g60peru (Jul 2, 2002)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (noizze)*

noizze:
I also read about that great method to figure out the real opening time, but my problem is that my idle PW is about 2.0 ms with my 440 cc/min injectors using 1 squirt. If I set it to 2 squirts to do the test it's probably not gonna idle with a +- 1.0 ms idle PW








Maybe I should just try and see what happens, worst case scenario it dies or idles like crap and I switch it back to 1 squirt. Thanks for the suggestion though http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Eduardo


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## noizze (Aug 19, 2003)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (g60peru)*

Remember that your PW includes your opening time. So if yours is at 2.0ms with a 1.0ms open time, then it should be 1.5ms with 2 squirts and 1.2-1.3ms with 4. I wouldn't run my G60 with 2 or more squirts, but is a good way to nail down the opening times. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
The Bosch hi impedance pintle style injectors aren't particularly fast. I have considered installing the low impedance injector board and run a set of Lucas style disk injectors. I have heard they can open in as little as .6ms. That would let me run a big set with out any worries.


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## g60peru (Jul 2, 2002)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (noizze)*

I hadn't thought of that, I'll give it a try.
Do you think i would get any advantages of using 2 squirts instead of 1? I've read in some threads that you can get smoother idle and more consistent fueling...
Eduardo


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (g60peru)*

I tried using 2 squirts on mine and the idle was rough with the 42# injectors @ 3.5 bar, so I stuck with 1squirt/cycle
Keep in mind though:
- I am running MSI -extra and NOT the High Resolution code (yet), so results may be different on MSII or HR code. This should only really affect closed loop idle though which I am not doing currently.
- I am running all injectors in batch (just because that is how the stock injector harness is setup). This engine is only temp until my new motor goes in, so I left it as is for now. I will then separate the injectors 2x2 banks. This gives more flexibility on controlling the injectors and rail pressure as opposed to firing all injectors at once (Regardless of how many times per cycle). You are still at the mercy of the High impedance opening time though.
I have the Flyback circuit on my V3 board so I have given the thought of Low Z injectors. For now though, I am 99.99% happy with what I have and a helluva lot better than Digi ever thought about.
I have about 3k miles logged now and and all








Also, recently hooked up the KnocksenseMS and it gets a http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## noizze (Aug 19, 2003)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (g60peru)*

Eduardo, I have tried 2 squirts, it made the idle a tad bit smoother, but I was also hitting 85+ duty cycle on the top end. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
I doubt it would be of any real benefit without resorting to really fast Lo-Z injectors. As for consistent fueling, try lowering your required fuel by a factor of two and scale your ve table by the same. I had my required fuel originally set to around 12-14, with my idle ve sitting around 25. It liked to wander a bit more than I liked.I found a thread about a year ago that discussed lowering your required fuel as low as possible, while keeping your highest ve numbers around 200-230. The math appears to have less rounding errors when run that way. I currently have my required fuel set to 3.4, with my VE peak around 210. I kept mine down a little to allow a bit of room for future upgrades. My idle is a lot more stable, and the upper rpm's are very stable run this way.
The G60 motor seems to be more sensitive to timing than to AFR at an idle in regards to how smooth it seems.
Because of the dynamic fueling requirements of any blown motor, there will always some inherent trade off. Ideally a staged injector setup would be the way to go, but the tuning and mechanical complexity would be the trade off. I know I have given some serious thought about doing it.


_Modified by noizze at 8:29 PM 4-18-2007_


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## Obi-Lan (Jan 8, 2007)

I'm building MS-II setup for g60 corrado too. I'd like to try that Jeep IAC valve and IAC valve body from diyautotune.com for idle control but does anyone know will it work with g60 engine?


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (Obi-Lan)*

There is no reason why it would not work. I would feed the IAC from the pressure pipe though (pre Throtle Body of course) and then feed it into the stock location in the intake. i.e. just as if you were boost bypassing the factory ISV.


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## Obi-Lan (Jan 8, 2007)

*Re: (sdezego)*

OK thanks for the info. 
How do you connect G60's air temp sensor? According to this picture sensor co pot has it own wire, do I just leave it disconnected?


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (Obi-Lan)*

Use T25/6 (sensor ground(s)) and T25/9 (Blue/White) Thermistor Reference

The T25/5 is for the CO pot which is of no use to us.


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## rcortez13 (Nov 21, 2005)

*Re: (sdezego)*

ttt


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## Obi-Lan (Jan 8, 2007)

*Re: (rcortez13)*

Here's my mega wiring harness (made from one they sell in diyautotune).


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## cosmo50cc (Aug 12, 2005)

*Re: (Obi-Lan)*

im hooking up ms on my car its got a 16v in it now but im running all digi 1 sensors. i just need to know what clt sensor to use black or blue and what wire on the co pot to use? thank you


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (cosmo50cc)*

Blue CLT (Black is for the Cluster temp gauge)
For the CO pot, use the middle Pin as the sensor (Bl/W) and the Br/W as the sensor grnd.
For the sensor calibration curve, try on these values in Easy Therm.
32 degrees F - 5750 ohms
140 degrees F - 600 ohms
212 degrees F - 200 ohms


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## cosmo50cc (Aug 12, 2005)

*Re: (sdezego)*

thank you


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## rcortez13 (Nov 21, 2005)

*Re: (cosmo50cc)*

ttt


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## AutoX95 (Aug 4, 2002)

*Re: (rcortez13)*

Bump to keep this out of the archive.


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## efritsch (Aug 21, 2002)

*Re: (AutoX95)*

We should get a mod to sticky it.


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## Ohara (Mar 12, 2005)

*Re: (Obi-Lan)*

Anyone have a picture of the wiring for a G60 like the one in the pic with labels.. I am not that great with wiring diagrams I need to see stuff to built it... 
Thanx Any help appreciated....


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## daneek155 (Apr 23, 2008)

*Re: (Ohara)*

have a rattleing sound when you accelerate that sound from the area where ecu is. i have the megasquirt sysstem and a patronic ecu, does megasquirt ever mak whistiling sound, and on more thing, what is the red sorta button you can push. as you can see i dont know much about these systems


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## Obi-Lan (Jan 8, 2007)

What is the color of fuel pump relay wire near digifant box? And should it be grounded (as mega does) or suplied with 12v to get fuel pump running?


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (Obi-Lan)*

Grnd. I believe it is pin #3 off the Digi harness. I forget the color, been waay too long for that.


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## Obi-Lan (Jan 8, 2007)

*Re: (sdezego)*

I tested with jump wire... It is the middle one of 3-pin connector. Red-Yellow were color. There was another red-yellow wire in that connector too (#1 or #3 cant tell) which gave +12V from fuel pump relay, used that on to feed injectors.


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## CorradoFuhrer (Mar 21, 2002)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (tdub785)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tdub785* »_interesting..... this is my set up in my mk2 g60
















what kind of shrink tubing is that around the wires?


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (CorradoFuhrer)*

Looks like std Raychem heat shrink Tubing.


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## ewillard (Apr 21, 2007)

*Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (sdezego)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Seomobster (Sep 24, 2015)

LooseNut said:


> *Re: MegaSquirt-II - How To (EuroFreak)*
> 
> Hey, just thought I'd show how to keep the stock harness if one decides to go the complicated route like me.
> You'll have to gut an A2 ECU and cut the connector leads off the PC board to make a custom plug:
> ...


Such a great thread for the few g60 df1 guys out there. Here is what I did for microsquirt, thank you again for making this.
Even though it was 15 years ago <3




























Note: This setup has not been tested yet. Please do your research first.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Cool 👍 Even though the thread is 16 years old some of us are still here and still running G60 on MS  I did upgrade to MS3x, but had many many miles on MS1 Extra HR code and many smiles with it.

Went to MS3x mainly for extra imputs/outputs and plans for sequential on my new motor.


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