# frankenstien TT "puting together a race car"



## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

hello all i decided to start a thread for my project race car, its a 2001 225 audi TT body/haldex and i plan to put a 180 AWP 5spd drivetrain in it for auto X. 

the reason im going with the 180hp AWP and 5spd is i already have it. however i might swap the head out and go non vvt to save $$$$ 

Currently im in the middle of "weight reduction" lol. Wanna see some photos?


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## chads (May 27, 2010)

Da fuk? :laugh: What happened to the hood?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

Fire and firemen hacked it open?

What type of "race car" are you going for? Do you have an event/class in mind?


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

chads said:


> Da fuk? :laugh: What happened to the hood?


 LOL. 93oct ARP tune + vacume leaks + poor fuel = rod trrough block + engine fire. NOT MY DOING but i got the car cheep


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

DougLoBue said:


> Fire and firemen hacked it open?
> 
> What type of "race car" are you going for? Do you have an event/class in mind?


 not yet there is a local AUTO-X / Hillclimb group that lets you run whatever you bring as long as you pass pre-race inspection aka "snell helmet and working seat belt. not really going for a class more to have fun. so im trying to kep it cheep hence the stock 180hp awp. that i already own.


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

here are some interior pics i est about 450lbs removed from interior so far and i still have more to remove.


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

thinking i will probly go with a seat like this


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

im also planing on moving as much weight as nessesary to the rear for 50/50 weight. im deleting the heavy and unnessesary plastic core suport. reducing the coiling system capacity, deleting any unnessasary systems including airbags, replacing the fuel tank with a fuel cell located at the spare tire spot, of course battery relocation. and im playing with the idea of a rear mounted radiator.. maybe


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

stock 3200lbs 
17.7lbs per hp 

current est weight 2700lbs 
15lbs per 1HP 

target weight 2200lbs 
12.2lbs per hp 

all est at 180hp


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

You planning on pulling out the AC/heat both under the hood and under the dash?

It will look like this then - did a heater core on a friends car 2 weeks ago...


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

yes i am  and i plan on doing a arp tune as well cause i have to get the ecu reprogramed anyway so should be 198-200+hp 

2200/200= 11lbs per hp thats better then a new ttrs. @ 11.8lbs per hp 

not bad for a bugget build


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

taverncustoms said:


> yes i am  and i plan on doing a arp tune as well cause i have to get the ecu reprogramed anyway so should be 198-200+hp
> 
> 2200/200= 11lbs per hp thats better then a new ttrs. @ 11.8lbs per hp
> 
> not bad for a bugget build


 If you can upgrade your DV and still pass inspection, do it and go for Unitronics Stage 1+ for 225hp and 260ft-torq plus the blue haldex. It's 20psi and your car will launch like a rocket 

Also, do you have any stripped parts I could take off your hands? The parcel cover would make me a happy camper


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> If you can upgrade your DV and still pass inspection, do it and go for Unitronics Stage 1+ for 225hp and 260ft-torq plus the blue haldex. It's 20psi and your car will launch like a rocket
> 
> Also, do you have any stripped parts I could take off your hands? The parcel cover would make me a happy camper


 unitronic it is then lol 

i will be selling of the rest of the unwanted parts on ebay. most will be no reserve bid starting at 0.01 

the haldex might come later


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## Morio (Feb 16, 1999)

remove the hatch and go el camino style...... :thumbup: back glass weighs alot:thumbup:


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Morio said:


> remove the hatch and go el camino style...... :thumbup: back glass weighs alot:thumbup:


 Rofl:laugh: 


Get the Haldex. Rev your car to 4000 RPMs and dump the clutch. Nothing but grip!  



You should also get a Euro plate that says "MONSTTER"


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Morio said:


> remove the hatch and go el camino style...... :thumbup: back glass weighs alot:thumbup:


 yeah i got keep weight in the back for 50/50


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> Rofl:laugh:
> 
> 
> Get the Haldex. Rev your car to 4000 RPMs and dump the clutch. Nothing but grip!
> ...


 or TTRS ETR


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

It's always nice to see some real purpose builds, most people seem to lack or loose the "purpose" part of building! :thumbup: 

I'm not sure where to begin in a thread where "The Chuckmeister" himself is giving performance advice  

I would say you need to forget about your dreams of 50/50 distribution because it most likely won't happen and concentrate your efforts in other areas that will make the project more balanced overall. Don't forget that it's polar, rotational, and unsprung weight that you should be chasing as they have much bigger effect on track performance. Go for the bumper crash bars (polar weight), lighter brakes (unsprung), wheels/rotors/tires (rotational and unsprung) etc. 

I haven't seen you mention anything about your plans for suspension and traction which IMO will play as big of a role as weight reduction. You can be light (although you are underpowered) and not have the thing handle as it should because of suspension and lack of traction. 

One more thing, that seat would have to be fully upholstered to pass inspection with most sanctioning bodies and it is not the greatest choice for the purpose of build. With the type of racing you are about to do, you want a seat that offers full 180 degree vision and some seats could be restricting your view (I spend as much time looking through the door opening as I look through the windshield when I autocross). The same principle applies to helmets also, you need a wide vision helmet if you are buying a full face for autocross/hill climb (that is why you see open face helmets are so popular in that type of racing). 

*Edit*: For the love of god, abort your plans on relocating the radiator in the back!


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Chuckmeister87 said:


> Get the Haldex. Rev your car to 4000 RPMs and dump the clutch. Nothing but grip!


 :banghead::banghead::banghead: 

Is this cablekid ? If not, you have filled the void rather nicely! 

He was/you are the best entertainer on the board! :laugh:


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## jedge1.8t (Jan 27, 2012)

1. get a better, comfy seat. 
2. if its engine related keep it up front, keep tank where it is. inside should be a roll cage. 
3. drop it the ground, throw some light wheels on there and go blue haldex 
4. get rid of exhaust and all emissions. 
5. sell me your driver door panel if its in good condition, sell rest of parts to others. 
6. use funds to tune engine and enjoy


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

jedge1.8t said:


> 3. *drop it the ground*, throw some light wheels on there and go *blue haldex*


 Why??? 



jedge1.8t said:


> 4. get rid of exhaust


  All auto-x sanctioning bodies have a 95 DB limit or less. Dumping the entire exhaust would be a sure way of getting DQed!


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> It's always nice to see some real purpose builds, most people seem to lack or loose the "purpose" part of building! :thumbup:
> 
> I'm not sure where to begin in a thread where "The Chuckmeister" himself is giving performance advice
> 
> ...


 The radiator was just an idea not set in stone by any means, plus I think it would add weight. Good to know on the seat, I was just going to have seat pads made for it I will have to check the rule book before I buy one. Yes I’m aware of the weight distribution and un-sprung weight as well as rotational mass, but I’m going to focus on total body weight and balance first cause its cheep and only costs me time, I do respect your die hard race view but I’m not building this to become a race car professional, it’s just to get into Auto-X and not hurt my Daily driven TT eventually I will get to the point that I will dump more money into it to get faster on the track until that point I will be keeping it very low budget. Mostly spare / leftover parts from my daily BT engine swap, aka the old engine out of my daily however I am tempted to just put the 400+hp BT engine in this and leave the daily alone. It would save me labor……Very Tempting 

edit: just cause no ones got 50/50 dosent mean it cant be done  ill give it a good try, cant hurt


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## jedge1.8t (Jan 27, 2012)

why... because you need to rid your body roll completely. you need a stiff suspension that will keep you planted flat. and because it reduces your drag and become more aerodynamic, ever look at how low a stock car is to the ground? 

fabricate a resonator after your downpipe then to keep you below but you want a restrictless exhaust overall


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

jedge1.8t said:


> 1. get a better, comfy seat.
> 2. if its engine related keep it up front, keep tank where it is. inside should be a roll cage.
> 3. drop it the ground, throw some light wheels on there and go blue haldex
> 4. get rid of exhaust and all emissions.
> ...


 1: not a daily driven car, want cheep and light over comfy 
2: tank? did you mean radiator? coolant reserve will be deleted. roll cages are heavy lol and not required. 
3: just a bad idea. reasons: i like my oil pan and that would ruin handling 
4: it wont be gone but a lot less restrictive, just a glasspack 
5: parts not seen are already sold 
6: of course


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

jedge1.8t said:


> why... because you need to rid your body roll completely. you need a stiff suspension that will keep you planted flat. and because it reduces your drag and become more aerodynamic, ever look at how low a stock car is to the ground?
> 
> fabricate a resonator after your downpipe then to keep you below but you want a restrictless exhaust overall


 stock cars are not lowered they have low skirts. suspenchion is latter down the road.


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## jedge1.8t (Jan 27, 2012)

have you been next to a stock car? they do have skirts to reduce drag effeciency but they indeed are low. but yeah suspensionis like 1k to 2k if done right, but if i were you i would do some springsbefore you hit the course. or else your gonna have under steer all over the place. blue haldex also will give you a better 50/50 split, oversteer to counter oversteer, less wheel hop and traction. but that too is 850+ 

but if your ever want to sell your driver door panel let me know.


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

jedge1.8t said:


> have you been next to a stock car? they do have skirts to reduce drag effeciency but they indeed are low. but yeah suspensionis like 1k to 2k if done right, but if i were you i would do some springsbefore you hit the course. or else your gonna have under steer all over the place. blue haldex also will give you a better 50/50 split, oversteer to counter oversteer, less wheel hop and traction. but that too is 850+
> 
> but if your ever want to sell your driver door panel let me know.


 if you lower the TT to much it efects the way the suspenchion works in a bad way. there was a thread on it somwhare. and i agree on the haldex. and springs but im keeping it low buget till i get a few seasons in. 

as far as the parts they were sold already


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

jedge1.8t said:


> why... because you need to rid your body roll completely. you need a stiff suspension that will keep you planted flat. and because it reduces your drag and become more aerodynamic, ever look at how low a stock car is to the ground?
> 
> fabricate a resonator after your downpipe then to keep you below but you want a restrictless exhaust overall


 Are you even aware of the factory suspension geometry that has to be worked around? Dropping low has many implications besides drag (which will be negligible anyway) and lower center of gravity. Lowering our cars has minimal effect on the center of gravity when compared to the excessive roll center drop that comes with it. Couple that with the horrible camber curve that will follow and you get a car that would have been way better in terms of handling without any lowering. 

Yes, body roll needs to be kept in check and that does not mean "getting rid of body roll completely" because if the suspension is not working (completely flat) traction will be poop (think go-kart with power on a real life track surface full of imperfections). There is a reason why go-cart track are silky smooth and Formula cars have working suspension with a limited degree of body roll. 


Here is a good place to start learning about how TT suspension works (read it a few times) :beer: 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...suspension&highlight=Let's+talk+TT+suspension


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

taverncustoms said:


> edit: just cause no ones got 50/50 dosent mean it cant be done  ill give it a good try, cant hurt


 You can try, but it's not going to happen with the laws of physics in place  .... 

Unless the the engine, transmission and driver weight are no longer supported statically by the front axle, the only thing you can do is to ballast the rear to get it even!


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

I think you should change the name of your thread. So you don't get any of this confused with the franken-folks.


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## ModsTTand (Jul 8, 2009)

This thread have the potential to share alot of opinions ,tips,tech.info's....els:thumbup: 

I see u got all that interior skinned  if this ur dedicated AutoX car then your on ur way to fully understand this car by sharing ur doings with all of us , THANK YOU SIR.:beer:opcorn: 

1-Grabbing a with a fellow TT AutoX'er on the R&R of AUTO-X would improve ur on going plan to reach ur max weight reduction and the effect of that on ur suspension reaction to such weight differences 

2-Deleting the AC+Emissions as soon u enter "Engine Chamber " u might want to consider along the way. 

3-My advice is Eurodyne Ecu Programmer for obtaining the full control on the car ECU to fine tune ur Engine , trust me when i say i respect APR/Uni....els but Eurodyne is ur final ECU solution unless something pop-up alone the way . 

best of luck


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## ModsTTand (Jul 8, 2009)

warranty225cpe said:


> I think you should change the name of your thread. So you don't get any of this confused with the franken-folks.


 maybe he's going share the same snail


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

You won't hit 2200lbs.


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## jedge1.8t (Jan 27, 2012)

im not fully aware of the tt suspension nor autorx. all i know is the tt has lots of understeer and body roll. car our size no matter what im sure will have some body roll. going low is just my opinion and if it 
were my build i would definitly coil over, lower, camber, struts, dry sump and a roll cage cause i dont want to hit something going super fast and die. 

i thought i read your putting a fuel cell in the spare tire area and didnt think it was a good idea. 

and as for the seat, theres plenty of lightweight comfy bucket seats that will do the job. i would want my racecar to have seat that i like to be in all day. 

just my opinion, thanks for the link too, ill check it out


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## Late__Apex (Dec 2, 2007)

warranty225cpe said:


> I think you should change the name of your thread. So you don't get any of this confused with the franken-folks.


 More Franken-confusion


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

20v master said:


> You won't hit 2200lbs.


 i can sure as hell try lol i might go as far as removing all unnessesary wiring and the sound insalation glued to the floor pan. ive removed at least 500lbs already just from interior so 2700ish lbs as it sits with ac, heat, sound sys, airbag sys, air ducting still to be removed from the interior and then ill move to the external items like bumper weight, exhaust, multiple other parts not needed like the steel fuel tank, ect.. i should be close. even 2400 would make me happy and i know there is at least that much left


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

warranty225cpe said:


> I think you should change the name of your thread. So you don't get any of this confused with the franken-folks.


 lol i called it the frankenstien build case it was a dead tt that im bringing back to life with spare parts. i wont be putting the franken turbo on it so srry for the confusion.


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> :banghead::banghead::banghead:
> 
> Is this cablekid ? If not, you have filled the void rather nicely!
> 
> He was/you are the best entertainer on the board! :laugh:


 I realize you can easily screw up your drivetrain by dumping the clutch on an AWD car. I know of someone who did it and killed their rear diff, but it doesn't mean you can't rebuild your car to be stronger  


Cablekid broke his car a lot, didn't he? :laugh:


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Today I decided that i would leave my daily driver alone and put the new engine in the race car so this will be getting a 400+ hp engine.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

taverncustoms said:


> Today I decided that i would leave my daily driver alone and put the new engine in the race car so this will be getting a 400+ hp engine.


 Now we're talking! What turbo, displacement, CR and when do see full boost at?


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

taverncustoms said:


> i can sure as hell try lol i might go as far as removing all unnessesary wiring and the sound insalation glued to the floor pan. ive removed at least 500lbs already just from interior so 2700ish lbs as it sits with ac, heat, sound sys, airbag sys, air ducting still to be removed from the interior and then ill move to the external items like bumper weight, exhaust, multiple other parts not needed like the steel fuel tank, ect.. i should be close. even 2400 would make me happy and i know there is at least that much left


 I've had a Mk4 GTI down to 2200lbs. You won't get the TT there, sorry. Nothing wrong with taking all you can out if you can live with it for your needs. :thumbup:


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## Semi!Pro (Nov 18, 2011)

Nice to see another local TT fanatic. I'll be watching this build. It's a complete different direction than I'm going with mine, which is cool to see! I have another car for big HP stuff  

You planning to go to any local events/shows/cruises this year? Sorry to get OT


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## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

Jedge, not a knock here, but please stop spreading misinformation if you don't _really_ understand what you're talking about. Regardless of what you know about TTs, I don't think there's a production car in existence that will handle better when you "drop it to the ground". 




taverncustoms said:


> Today I decided that i would leave my daily driver alone and put the new engine in the race car so this will be getting a 400+ hp engine.


 Make sure you bore it to save weight :laugh: 

Some notes: 

- I dropped (IIRC) 27lbs with a turbo-back (no cats/resonators); the OEM 225 exhaust is heavy, but I don't know about the 180. 
- 13lbs per corner with wheels/tires alone! 
- I weighed everything precisely, and contrary to popular internet belief, I barely dropped any mass with brakes (and these were 2-piece rotors and Wilwood Super-lite calipers). The larger rotor rings and brake pads nearly made up for the lower caliper weight and lighter rotor hats. 

I don't think 2200lbs is possible without crazy stuff like carbon panels and Plexiglass, but I bet you can get


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

I'm also going to get my weight down I'm watching thisopcorn:


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Now we're talking! What turbo, displacement, CR and when do see full boost at?


gt3071r 1.8l 8.1 full bost should be 3500-4000 with a 7500 rev limit on a 6speed trans. i know gt2871r would be better for auto X. but i also plan to hillclimb


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Semi!Pro said:


> Nice to see another local TT fanatic. I'll be watching this build. It's a complete different direction than I'm going with mine, which is cool to see! I have another car for big HP stuff
> 
> You planning to go to any local events/shows/cruises this year? Sorry to get OT


i started my own euro car club here in salem i will send you the face book link


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

20v master said:


> I've had a Mk4 GTI down to 2200lbs. You won't get the TT there, sorry. Nothing wrong with taking all you can out if you can live with it for your needs. :thumbup:


cool hey do you auto X your TT and if so what class are you running? im thinking mine will be Super Street Modified Class (SSM)? not sure though


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

got an email from the utronic dealer today they say i can run the AWP ECU and thats awesome. maffless 630 tune with VVT


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

taverncustoms said:


> cool hey do you auto X your TT and if so what class are you running? im thinking mine will be Super Street Modified Class (SSM)? not sure though


Question not intended for me but with a coupe you would not be in SSM. SSM is the "new" name for the old SM2 class which is basically SM for 2 door/2 seaters and roadsters (same modifications allowed as regular Street Modified). Cars that populate SSM are RX7, MR-2 etc.

Now is your car going to be SM legal? I'm not entirely sure (I haven't looked at Street Mods rules in years) but the engine swap is SM legal because it's of the same line. Some of the gutting maybe prohibited and kicking you out however (again not sure of the specifics). If I were you, I would hope for SM but brace for Prepared. 

I personally think that prepared would be cheaper to build too and suit you better. SM in the autocross circles stands for Serious Money and requires fully working aero at auto-x speed (you better stay home if you think about competing in SM relying on mechanical grip alone). I have a E-prepared Saturn sitting in my garage that I haven't given enough love in 2 years, I love the fact that full bias ply cantilever slicks are allowed. They are much cheaper than R-compounds and last an entire season (really cutting on tire budget which constitutes the bulk of the total racing budget per season on a sorted car).




This is what competitive SM cars look like:


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

*Vic Sias's of Siastuning.com  Supercharged M3, that car has full dynamic (I ain't kidding) aero spoiler*


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

*PJ Corales monster S40*


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

*Jarrod Hoops national champion car* 


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

taverncustoms said:


> gt3071r 1.8l 8.1 full bost should be 3500-4000 with a 7500 rev limit on a 6speed trans. i know gt2871r would be better for auto X. but i also plan to hillclimb


8:1 CR? I hope that's a typo. And no, I don't Auto-x, more of a drag and road course guy. :beer:


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

taverncustoms said:


> got an email from the utronic dealer today they say i can run the AWP ECU and thats awesome. maffless 630 tune with VVT



:thumbup:


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

20v master said:


> 8:1 CR? I hope that's a typo. And no, I don't Auto-x, more of a drag and road course guy. :beer:


lol ya ill be running 225 amu C/R i think its like 9 somthing


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Question not intended for me but with a coupe you would not be in SSM. SSM is the "new" name for the old SM2 class which is basically SM for 2 door/2 seaters and roadsters (same modifications allowed as regular Street Modified). Cars that populate SSM are RX7, MR-2 etc.
> 
> Now is your car going to be SM legal? I'm not entirely sure (I haven't looked at Street Mods rules in years) but the engine swap is SM legal because it's of the same line. Some of the gutting maybe prohibited and kicking you out however (again not sure of the specifics). If I were you, I would hope for SM but brace for Prepared.
> 
> ...


im not planing on winning anything i was just courrious what class id be in. and ill be running a s-line bumper so a spliter and spoiler would be easy to add for a aero kit. i'd make the spliter my self and the mounts for the spoiler so not really seing that much i see more money in suspenchoin work then anything. "other then the engine im already building"


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

yeah it will have to run prepared class 1 not intirely sure yet what one but id gues XP


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## ttwsm (Feb 27, 2011)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> *Jarrod Hoops national champion car*
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> ...


(edit - first post came out all wrong). Looks like suspension still can be dialed in a bit further. Must be a great driver if he's winning and still left some time on the table!


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## Audiguy84 (Nov 14, 2006)

taverncustoms said:


> i can sure as hell try lol i might go as far as removing all unnessesary wiring and the sound insalation glued to the floor pan. Ive removed at least 500lbs already just from interior so 2700ish lbs as it sits with ac, heat, sound sys, airbag sys, air ducting still to be removed from the interior and then ill move to the external items like bumper weight, exhaust, multiple other parts not needed like the steel fuel tank, ect.. I should be close. Even 2400 would make me happy and i know there is at least that much left


have you removed all the stuff behind the dash? Bet there is at least 100lbs there.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

ttwsm said:


> (edit - first post came out all wrong). Looks like suspension still can be dialed in a bit further. Must be a great driver if he's winning and still left some time on the table!


I do not think so! The car is not simply tripoding (which is easy to achieve in that CT9A chassis if things aren't properly dialed) but it is generating enough grip to lift the whole side of the car without hitting any bump. To put that in perspective, you need to generate over 2 G on two tires to lift a 2900 lbs or so EVO. Trust me that car is sorted (you do not win nationals on talent only, and he also won a road racing national championship in that same car). That car also has more money invested in aero and mechanical grip parts (suspension, wings/splitters, differentials) than both our cars selling values combined. 

If you look at that picture again, that beast is in a sweeper in steady state. Most cars will break loose before they can generate enough grip to lift a side... I would suggest you evaluate that statement again buddy


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Audiguy84 said:


> have you removed all the stuff behind the dash? Bet there is at least 100lbs there.


nope just the glove box and the panel below the colum


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

ill be running in the FP class. so ill be running 255-40-17 tires and my minumum weight is now 2,315lbs still gonna try for


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

taverncustoms said:


> ill be running in the FP class. so ill be running 255-40-17 tires and my minumum weight is now 2,315lbs still gonna try for


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Some ideas can be taken from the Berry FP car :

http://forums.evolutionm.net/motor-sports/364204-f-prepared-solo-2-evolution-viii.html


I forgot to suggest Kosei K1 as a cheap and lightweight wheel in 15 X 7 with availability in 5 x 100 bolt pattern if you decide to go that route ( Remember 16x10 or 17x10 are the only competitive alternative).

I run them in my EP car with Goodyears and they are exceptional on dry pavement! Only 32.5 lbs with the wide cantilevers mounted :beer:


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Having built and competed in Prepared, I have the following advise for you:
> 
> *If you are not going to run cantilever bias ply slicks, take the weight penalty and run 10" wide wheels and rubber*
> 
> Unless it is cold or wet, the R-comp are giving so much grip over real slicks, that you need big rubbers to make up for the disadvantage. If you are not going to shrink your brakes to run 15 X 7 wheels and Hoosier or Goodyear cantilevers, take the extra weight (you can use that oportunity to ballast the crap out of the rear towards your better weight balance goals). Personally, if I were building a TT for FP, I would run 15 x 7 wheels and Goodyear cantilevers ( Wilwood front calipers are light and will play nice with 15" wheels). My 2 cents!


im planing on using 17s to keep a smaller side wall 255-40/35-17 smaller side wall = lower car as per SCCA rules. i was thinking about running BFG-R1 or R1S but they are spendy.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

taverncustoms said:


> im planing on using 17s to keep a smaller side wall 255-40/35-17 smaller side wall = lower car as per SCCA rules. i was thinking about running BFG-R1 or R1S but they are spendy.


Smaller side walls? I'm not sure I'm following you...

R1 and R1S are road race compounds and way too hard for the sport that you are getting into (they also need heat to work and are useless before that). You need way softer/sticky compounds that only Kuhmo V710 or Hoosier A6 (r-compounds) offers in that tire class. However, like I said they still give away a good second per lap on true bias-ply slicks like the Goodyears that I posted. I don't know why you are stuck on running 255 tires because that is not enough tire even for a sub 2000 lbs car with decent power. I know you are trying to do this on a budget but youl will soon realize that there are corners that can't be cut when it comes to setup and tire is one of them. Like I suggested previously (you can always ignore the advise and learn the hard way because at the end it's your car and your build) there are two ways of doing this right:

A) 16x10 or 17x10 with big r-compound (275s at the very minimum) and take a weight penalty that should not bother you because your car has power

B) run smaller 15x7 with true slicks that will cost less, last longer, weight a lot less and be faster overall


I'm not trying to knock your plan down but simply don't want to see yet another "dead end" autocross car that was build with the wrong ideas of what that type of racing requires. :beer:


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Smaller side walls? I'm not sure I'm following you...
> 
> R1 and R1S are road race compounds and way too hard for the sport that you are getting into (they also need heat to work and are useless before that). You need way softer/sticky compounds that only Kuhmo V710 or Hoosier A6 (r-compounds) offers in that tire class. However, like I said they still give away a good second per lap on true bias-ply slicks like the Goodyears that I posted. I don't know why you are stuck on running 255 tires because that is not enough tire even for a sub 2000 lbs car with decent power. I know you are trying to do this on a budget but youl will soon realize that there are corners that can't be cut when it comes to setup and tire is one of them. Like I suggested previously (you can always ignore the advise and learn the hard way because at the end it's your car and your build) there are two ways of doing this right:
> 
> ...


lol dont get me wrong, im trying to research as much as possable for this. So plz do correct me if im wrong, a lower profile tire will alow you to run closer to the ground because the rules say the car can not be below the lip of the rim. hence low profile tire = low car. and i hear you on the tire width and if my car dosent make min weight you can bet ill be adding 1" of tire per 100lbs im over lol. and i just discovered i will have to run a restrictor plate of 46mm 1.8in just before the turbo :facepalm: so it will be interesting to see what kind of power ill be making at the track.

Also the BFG-R1S is suposed to be for Auxo-X and i quote 

"The g-Force R1-S (S for Sprint) radial is BFGoodrich's Track & Competition DOT racing tire developed for the drivers of prepared vehicles looking to run their quickest times in autocross, sprint race and time attack events. Offering more ultimate dry grip, g-Force R1-S tires come up to temperature quicker and provide more grip in cooler ambient temperatures on tracks that are easier on tires (compared to the standard g-Force R1). However, the g-Force R1-S will wear quicker than the standard g-Force R1 tires and are not as well suited for extremely hot days."

the reason i sujested them is they come in the correct size

also im not seeing a lagre compeditive field in the FP class last year there were only 3 FP cars in my area


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

taverncustoms said:


> lol dont get me wrong, im trying to research as much as possable for this. So plz do correct me if im wrong, a lower profile tire will alow you to run closer to the ground because the rules say the car can not be below the lip of the rim. hence low profile tire = low car. and i hear you on the tire width and if my car dosent make min weight you can bet ill be adding 1" of tire per 100lbs im over lol. and i just discovered i will have to run a restrictor plate of 46mm 1.8in just before the turbo :facepalm: so it will be interesting to see what kind of power ill be making at the track.
> 
> Also the BFG-R1S is suposed to be for Auxo-X and i quote
> 
> ...


*Forget about the sidewall and tire profile*! In the range of tires that you are looking at, they are all going to be between 24-25" tall (overall diameter). Our gearing (both 5 and 6 speed) can use some help from a taller tire . Race tires also have super stiff sidewalls that makes half an inch negligible, it's the tread width that you should be after (again 255 is too anemic and won't cut it, especially in the front).

As far as the tire brand, it's a no brainer! Hoosier or kumho in the r-compounds and mostly Hoosier with a couple of Goodyear or Avon for bias-ply slicks.

Look at 2011 national results, any other choice is a complete mistake:

http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/Documents/resultfiles/TWWE results6.pdf
http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/Documents/resultfiles/TEWW8.pdf
http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/Documents/resultfiles/THEFW Results8.pdf
http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/Documents/resultfiles/THEFW Results9.pdf


The restrictor plate can be used in your advantage to make torque downlow and improve the spool. I have discussed this with Late_Apex via Email before and the result is the same for the FP evos on restrictor plates, the spool and midrange torque is insane. I'll look for some data for you :beer:


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> *Forget about the sidewall and tire profile*! In the range of tires that you are looking at, they are all going to be between 24-25" tall (overall diameter). Our gearing (both 5 and 6 speed) can use some help from a taller tire . Race tires also have super stiff sidewalls that makes half an inch negligible, it's the tread width that you should be after (again 255 is too anemic and won't cut it, especially in the front).
> 
> As far as the tire brand, it's a no brainer! Hoosier or kumho in the r-compounds and mostly Hoosier with a couple of Goodyear or Avon for bias-ply slicks.
> 
> ...


wow every ones running hoosier its got to be for a reason lol. as far as the restrictor i have an idea to get the gt3071r to breathe through it so i dont have to go with the gt28


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

taverncustoms said:


> wow every ones running hoosier its got to be for a reason lol. as far as the restrictor i have an idea to get the gt3071r to breathe through it so i dont have to go with the gt28


Yeah if your not on Hoosier, you are not serious about being competitive at a national level. Don't get it twisted, some incredible drivers still win with the Kumhos V710 and Goodyear slicks but it's becoming very rare. The way I see it and do it personally; in the developmental stages I use the cheaper Kumho or GY that also last longer but once the car is starting to get sorted and competitive, switch to the faster more expensive Hoosiers.

As far as the restrictor plate, trust me it makes a 30 series turbo behave like 28 series (with the help of some timing of course). With the possibility you have of running VVT, you can totally make it work to your advantage. Think about the rally cars, they run on restrictor plates but with big boost advance timing and antilag they make the most out of it :beer:


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Yeah if your not on Hoosier, you are not serious about being competitive at a national level. Don't get it twisted, some incredible drivers still win with the Kumhos V710 and Goodyear slicks but it's becoming very rare. The way I see it and do it personally; in the developmental stages I use the cheaper Kumho or GY that also last longer but once the car is starting to get sorted and competitive, switch to the faster more expensive Hoosiers.
> 
> As far as the restrictor plate, trust me it makes a 30 series turbo behave like 28 series (with the help of some timing of course). With the possibility you have of running VVT, you can totally make it work to your advantage. Think about the rally cars, they run on restrictor plates but with big boost advance timing and antilag they make the most out of it :beer:


good idea on the tire thanks, however it might be a while befor you see her on race tires lol you will prob see me rolling on street tires and cheep rims in the beggining. This year is all about getting the weight down and the engine/clutch done. also good to here about the restrictor i was thinking it was gonna kill any gain from the gt30 and you can bet im having a custom restrictor machined and polished to a fine volocity stack. rule is 1/2in long of restrictor no rule saying it cant have a volocity stack at one end.


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## 01ttgt28 (Jun 23, 2009)

What's this restrictor plate you guys are talking about any pics??
Are their any advantage for use on the street??


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

01ttgt28 said:


> What's this restrictor plate you guys are talking about any pics??
> Are their any advantage for use on the street??


i wouldnt think so its there to limit power out of turbo cars in a class that runs mixed NA vs Foced. what he is saying is with the restrictor i will still have the bt mid power and it will help spool quicker but im sure ill be loosing high rpm HP&TQ


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

01ttgt28 said:


> What's this restrictor plate you guys are talking about any pics??
> Are their any advantage for use on the street??





taverncustoms said:


> i wouldnt think so its there to limit power out of turbo cars in a class that runs mixed NA vs Foced. what he is saying is with the restrictor i will still have the bt mid power and it will help spool quicker but im sure ill be loosing high rpm HP&TQ


That's correct, it's a turbo inlet restriction designed to limit horsepower on forced induction cars to level the playing field for the naturally aspirated cars. Since it is only an inlet restriction, horsepower in the upper range is limited/choked but midrange torque and spool up is actually strong. I wouldn't see the need for this on a street car that is not limited by a rulebook.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

taverncustoms said:


> also good to here about the restrictor i was thinking it was gonna kill any gain from the gt30 and you can bet im having a custom restrictor machined and polished to a fine volocity stack. rule is 1/2in long of restrictor no rule saying it cant have a volocity stack at one end.


Careful because the restrictor has to be a separate standalone piece. Everything else you want to incorporate in your Turbo Inlet Piping can't be part of the plate (plain half inch thick metal piece with the given ID. The way I would do it is the restrictor plate going to a silicone transition piece from the restrictor OD to a 4" ID inlet leading to a filter with a V-stack.


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Careful because the restrictor has to be a separate standalone piece. Everything else you want to incorporate in your Turbo Inlet Piping can't be part of the plate (plain half inch thick metal piece with the given ID. The way I would do it is the restrictor plate going to a silicone transition piece from the restrictor OD to a 4" ID inlet leading to a filter with a V-stack.


my plan is to sandwich it between 2 machined & polished parts one will be a volocity stack and the otther just a smoth transition to the inlet size of the turbo just to reduce turbulance through the restrictor. i did not see any rule aginst it.


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Update:
well my DD has stopped braking, so now its time to continue on the race car.

Coilovers:

after months of searching for KW v3s to be an affordable price I ran across a a few new coilovers for the TT AWD platform and after comparing them on paper I decided to get these:










Rear Control arms: I have a set of MadMax controll arms and they are awesome strong and reliable. however this car is a race car and weight and cost are a big factor. so I am trying these. 










I understand that the aluminum threads could simply strip out and the U ends may bend, I would not recommend these for a full weight car. and I do have a plan to make them safer. I know I'm taking a risk on both of these items. and its mine to take.


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## FatAce (Jan 30, 2012)

Glad to see people willing to test the waters. Hopefully all goes well and you got some excellent product.


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

I have also settled on a turbo as well, EFR 7064 twin scroll internal waste gate with a Quick spool valve. should spool like or better then a GT2871R and hold more boost. I will be custom making the manifold with an integrated QSV "quick spool valve"


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

FatAce said:


> Glad to see people willing to test the waters. Hopefully all goes well and you got some excellent product.


thanks crossing my fingers


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

drum roll please: all the way from Poland... fully adjustable MK4/TT pillow-ball camber caster plates. excited to see them in person.


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

by rotating the assembly you can change caster but it limits camber. should still be a worth while upgrade.


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Interested to see how the single bearing on the silver project plates hold up in a track application. 

I was interested in them when they first came out (mainly because of the price point), but stopped when I realized that, although they were a ground control knockoff, they also cut corners from the design they copied by using only the single main bearing instead of two (like GC) to evenly distribute the loads and extend bearing lifespan. Now that my car is much lighter, and essentially a toy that doesn't get DD anymore, I'm curious to see how they will do. For me, if they can last a couple of seasons without needing bearing replacement, it's not a bad proposition. opcorn:


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Interested to see how the single bearing on the silver project plates hold up in a track application.
> 
> I was interested in them when they first came out (mainly because of the price point), but stopped when I realized that, although they were a ground control knockoff, they also cut corners from the design they copied by using only the single main bearing instead of two (like GC) to evenly distribute the loads and extend bearing lifespan. Now that my car is much lighter, and essentially a toy that doesn't get DD anymore, I'm curious to see how they will do. For me, if they can last a couple of seasons without needing bearing replacement, it's not a bad proposition. opcorn:


these have a spherical joint. like a ball joint. I'm also thinking the center plate is replaceable at a reduced cost. if it ever failed. but adding a oem or upgraded bearing to the bottom of the unit is completely possible to reduce wear on the spherical joint.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

What happened to the FT? Why the new turbo?


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

warranty225cpe said:


> What happened to the FT? Why the new turbo?


this is my silver TT, my red TT has the frankenturbo. and why no FT on this one... because race car. 450hp goal


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

What coilovers are those?


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

DougLoBue said:


> What coilovers are those?


http://www.bcracing-na.com/


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## toy4two2 (Feb 6, 2012)

good luck


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

taverncustoms said:


> this is my silver TT, my red TT has the frankenturbo. and why no FT on this one... because race car. 450hp goal


Ahhhh.. I see


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

found a hood at a good price correct color too. :thumbup:


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## [email protected] (Dec 14, 2013)

Wow this thread was a fun read. Looking really good my only complaint is that now I want to gutt my car. Thanks


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

hood arrived damaged  at least they let me return it. looking for hood agin :banghead:


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

heat project


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

taverncustoms said:


> im deleting the heavy and unnessesary plastic core suport....and im playing with the idea of a rear mounted radiator.. maybe


good luck lowering weight by lessening the cooling capacity, but pumping coolant to the rear of the car.

heavy and "unnessesary" plastic core "suport"????


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

speed51133! said:


> good luck lowering weight by lessening the cooling capacity, but pumping coolant to the rear of the car.
> 
> heavy and "unnessesary" plastic core "suport"????


running 2 aluminum 1" lines to the stock muffler location would not be hard or heavy. and there is plenty of room behind the haldex for it. so much room for activities. but I might keep it in the front. weight balance will be the deciding factor. 

the core support is excessive in size and weight and only holds the headlights, top of the bumper cover, hood latch and the radiator of course. I will mount Intercooler and radiator to the ends of the frame rails with aluminum sheet metal or tubes and make a hood latch bar to hold the bumper cover. latch will be locking hood pins any way. the light tabs are broke on the housings so I will make aluminum sheet metal mounts for them as well. should reduce the weight quite a bit. and let me run any radiator & IC I want. I'm keeping the front crash bar for rigidity & safety...for now.

the radiator i want to use is 13"tall 2"thick and 22"wide so I should be able to run it in the Rear at an angle or above the Intercooler instead of behind it.


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Today was a good day, finally got a usable hood in the correct color. only took over a year










I'm excited to get her back to a rolling chassis soon. hope this is the year I get her running.


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

I would like to thank Grant @ (cant mention here) for the Insane deal. sorry IE no Military/Veteran discount = NO Customer.

Mine will have billet DV and upgraded WGA will post pics when it gets here.


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

some new arrivals.


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## funkejay (Jun 18, 2013)

taverncustoms said:


> drum roll please: all the way from Poland... fully adjustable MK4/TT pillow-ball camber caster plates. excited to see them in person.


very interested in following your thread, as I'm also building a track car out of my 2001 Quattro 225... 

who/where did you order these camber/caster plates from? and please keep us posted on the coil overs! I'm not doing my suspension until next fall, but I'm really interested in haring your impressions of these shocks...


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

funkejay said:


> very interested in following your thread, as I'm also building a track car out of my 2001 Quattro 225...
> 
> who/where did you order these camber/caster plates from? and please keep us posted on the coil overs! I'm not doing my suspension until next fall, but I'm really interested in haring your impressions of these shocks...


thanks for following the thread my first impression on the coil over kit is good well made parts the rear spring perch is not threaded it uses spacers to adjust ride height, but it does have a spring pre-load on the shock body, but i will use an adjustable threaded perch if needed but that is farther down the line. 

the front camber plate are an over seas item if you search the name in the photo you should be able to find them, also knowing some mk4 parts work for the TT is good to know. PM sent


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

AWP kO3S vs EFR 7064


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

some more parts came in. 

thanks Mark at IDF










Just a little added stopping power. love these carbon pads.
slotted only rotors. for added stopping power with cold brakes.









And some rigidity for the sub-frames and rear control arm. and rack mount just because race car. i will be reinforcing the sub-frame after its installed on the car to ensure proper clearances.


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

NVH whats that lol. seriously I should be able to hear my tires squishing an ant. :laugh:


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## Marcus_Aurelius (Mar 1, 2012)

Looking good! :thumbup::thumbup:


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

Marcus_Aurelius said:


> Looking good! :thumbup::thumbup:


thanks


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## [email protected] (Dec 14, 2013)

taverncustoms said:


> AWP kO3S vs EFR 7064


Love those efr's. Best I can tell no one is making a manifold for our car though ..sadly quite a few for a4's. Let me know when you find a shop to fab your manifold and I will get one to, possibly they will give us a deal.

Sent from my M2105 using Tapatalk


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## taverncustoms (Feb 18, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> Love those efr's. Best I can tell no one is making a manifold for our car though ..sadly quite a few for a4's. Let me know when you find a shop to fab your manifold and I will get one to, possibly they will give us a deal.
> 
> Sent from my M2105 using Tapatalk


i have an experimental manifold I might be testing. could be a flop but ill let you know.


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