# Spare tire subwoofer by Cerwin-Vega &#x1f4af;&#x1f525;&#x1f525;&#x1f525;



## Azatlas2019 (Jun 29, 2020)

For those wanting to add the spare tire subwoofer as we did. Here you go. Tap into the left rear door speaker! Here is the wiring diagram/list😉, any questions please feel free to ask and or send a message I will be more then happy to walk you through and send pics etc. even FaceTime

It hits pretty damn good and it’s quick enough to pick you the punch bass from rock. And deep enough to handle the gangsta rap 🤣. It blows the fender sub out of the water by 💯. It’s the Cerwin-Vega spare tire sub $300 on amazon with a $17, 8 gauge wiring kit. And it’s a prime item 🤣. The sub it self complements the stock system perfect it pack enough punch but doesn’t over due it. This weekend’s task adding 2 coaxial speakers to the 3rd row as the fender system has. Stay tuned!


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## Azatlas2019 (Jun 29, 2020)

Img_7082.heic


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## Azatlas2019 (Jun 29, 2020)

How do you post a picture?


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## snobrdrdan (Sep 10, 2008)

Azatlas2019 said:


> How do you post a picture?


Upload them to a hosting site and THEN post the link here

You can use www.flickr.com or www.imgur.com for example


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## Azatlas2019 (Jun 29, 2020)

https://flic.kr/p/2jpKGEN


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## BsickPassat (May 10, 2010)

Azatlas2019 said:


> https://flic.kr/p/2jpKGEN


Click on the arrow on the bottom right (Share),

Copy bbcode and paste it here

618C524A-F00D-4897-B7B4-045DB1136B8D by Eric Trujillo, on Flickr


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## poorboy17 (Jun 27, 2017)

do you have to remove the spare tire?


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

No wire diagram?


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## mdtony (Mar 3, 2008)

Hi, nice set up, I am thinking to do the same or use my old sub/amp set up and mount the amp under the floor and have the ability to remove the sub box which will just stay in the trunk.

Few questions for you. 
1st: running the power wire: did you find a gromet in the firewall? Did you have to cut it out? Do you have to completely remove the battery?

2nd: tapping for sound, what LOC did you use? Did you tap in behind the unit in the glove box?


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## emdy (Nov 18, 2019)

I'm planning on tackling this project. I already added trailer wiring harness, so I'm thinking I can just tap into that for the power.

Any info on splicing into the door speaker and running that wire to the trunk would be helpful.


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

take out the plastic shield above the brake and gas pedal. There are 4 screws there.

Once it is off, you will find some sound deadening insulation against the firewall where the main engine harness passes through. The insulation has a bunch of slits in it. If you peel back some of the slits on the lower half you will find an unused grommet through the firewall. I used a long and thin screw driver and poked it through. If you then look in the engine bay behind the battery and about a foot below it, you will see the screwdriver sticking through.

8 gauge wire would fit through it no problem. I would push it through from the interior and grab it from engine bay and pull up the few feet you will need.

I am sure you could fit larger gauge wire, but you will have to cut the hole in the grommet larger than just a screw driver shoved through.

You can then run the power along the driver side sill plates to the trunk or wherever.

As to tapping into the speakers, you can access them behind the cd player in the glove box. I posted a how-to for that when I added a plug and play amp from enfig stereo. https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?9415499-Plug-and-play-amplifier-(NOT-Match)


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## emdy (Nov 18, 2019)

Maybe I'm confused, I already installed a dedicated 12v power from the battery to the trunk. Wouldn't I just need to splice into the speaker wire in the rear door for the signal? This is the part I'm unsure of.


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

what is your dedicated power wire? What gauge? Looks pretty small.....


Yes, you could also tap into the speaker wire in the B-pillar that feeds the rear doors. There is a wire diagram somewhere to identify the colors. Note, if you don't have the fender setup, do not go by the "with amp" ones.


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## emdy (Nov 18, 2019)

Power is 12g running direct from battery. Just wondering the where exactly to tap into the speaker wire...


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## EPilot (Jul 27, 1999)

emdy said:


> Power is 12g running direct from battery. Just wondering the where exactly to tap into the speaker wire...


Don't use a butt connector like that there. Either splice the wire properly with heatshrink or if you must use a butt connector use a weatherproof butt connector. 
Water WILL get in there and corrode the wiring and eventually fail.

You can also see the insulation sticking out of the fuse side of that butt connector so it's not done right..


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## emdy (Nov 18, 2019)

Probably right. I redid the splice with heatshrink. Still haven't found info on the best way to splice into the speaker.


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

what amp are you using?? 12ga is pretty small for almost all amps.

Also, is that house wire?? What is that wire rated at, where did you get it??


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## mdtony (Mar 3, 2008)

speed51133! said:


> take out the plastic shield above the brake and gas pedal. There are 4 screws there.
> 
> Once it is off, you will find some sound deadening insulation against the firewall where the main engine harness passes through. The insulation has a bunch of slits in it. If you peel back some of the slits on the lower half you will find an unused grommet through the firewall. I used a long and thin screw driver and poked it through. If you then look in the engine bay behind the battery and about a foot below it, you will see the screwdriver sticking through.
> 
> ...


Thank you, 
that was super helpful:beer::beer::beer:


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## arkitect06 (Mar 11, 2018)

Used this video as a guide as the wiring diagram was the same. I tapped the wires behind the head unit and ran wires to the back via the side foot wells. I used Posi-taps at the wires at the head unit to connect to a Scoche LOC90 line output converter.


https://youtu.be/W8Pnv8okMe4


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

mdtony said:


> Thank you,
> that was super helpful:beer::beer::beer:


If you use 8gauge and speaker wire, I am sure you could tuck it under the sill plates without removing all that trim.

Also, you don't need to remove the battery if you follow what I posted above. I would recommend NOT removing it to avoid getting codes and faults you need to clear out with obd11/vagcom/dealer. But the rule of thumb is to always disconnect, do what you please.


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## mdtony (Mar 3, 2008)

arkitect06 said:


> Used this video as a guide as the wiring diagram was the same. I tapped the wires behind the head unit and ran wires to the back via the side foot wells. I used Posi-taps at the wires at the head unit to connect to a Scoche LOC90 line output converter.
> 
> 
> https://youtu.be/W8Pnv8okMe4
> ...


Did you run the wires and kept the LOC behind the unit, or extended the wire and keep the loc in the trunk. I want to do the latter, so I can tune it.
Also did you use the LOC remote turn on for blue wire for the amp or ran one from the fuse box?
Thank you


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## arkitect06 (Mar 11, 2018)

mdtony said:


> Did you run the wires and kept the LOC behind the unit, or extended the wire and keep the loc in the trunk. I want to do the latter, so I can tune it.
> Also did you use the LOC remote turn on for blue wire for the amp or ran one from the fuse box?
> Thank you


Space was too tight behind the head unit and as you stated I wanted to be able to tune as needed. Used to the blue wire provided by the LOC.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

space is tight directly behind the HU, but take out the glove box and there is plenty around there.


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## Azatlas2019 (Jun 29, 2020)

poorboy17 said:


> do you have to remove the spare tire?


No you do not have to remove the spare it sits under the hard top liner but in the spare tire where the factory fender sits.


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## Azatlas2019 (Jun 29, 2020)

speed51133! said:


> space is tight directly behind the HU, but take out the glove box and there is plenty around there.



You can tap into the side rear speakers these are designed for that. Not to have to use the head unit.


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## Azatlas2019 (Jun 29, 2020)

arkitect06 said:


> mdtony said:
> 
> 
> > Did you run the wires and kept the LOC behind the unit, or extended the wire and keep the loc in the trunk. I want to do the latter, so I can tune it.
> ...



How’s that Rockville sound? I know it’s an 8in sub so I’m just curious what you think of it.


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## Azatlas2019 (Jun 29, 2020)

speed51133! said:


> what amp are you using?? 12ga is pretty small for almost all amps.
> 
> Also, is that house wire?? What is that wire rated at, where did you get it??


The spare tire subs come Pre powered with built in amps. The Cerwin-Vega is 600 amps 150rms you can bridge that and make it 300 rms. Directions state 8 gauge power wire that’s what I ran. And then tapped into the wreath door speaker in the pillar behind drivers seat. It’s honestly pretty easy.


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

speed51133! said:


> take out the plastic shield above the brake and gas pedal. There are 4 screws there.
> 
> Once it is off, you will find some sound deadening insulation against the firewall where the main engine harness passes through. The insulation has a bunch of slits in it. If you peel back some of the slits on the lower half you will find an unused grommet through the firewall. I used a long and thin screw driver and poked it through. If you then look in the engine bay behind the battery and about a foot below it, you will see the screwdriver sticking through.
> 
> ...


Here are pics to help you out. Like I said, remove the plastic shield by the brake pedal. It should look like this below. NOTE the screw driver handle!! It is currently poking through that grommet. Like I said before, there are slits in the insulation so you can peel it back to expose the grommet without any cutting.









Here is a closeup of the nipple pulled back into the cabin, normally it is pushed out into the engine bay.









Now I snipped the tip off "mozeltoff!"









I then pushed about a foot of 4 gauge wire through the nipple from the interior cabin. Here you can see it in the distance, it is the fat purplish/blue cable. I was able to stick my arm in there and pull it up.


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

I was able to take off the driver sill plate easily. The rear sill plate is a pain to remove with the rear seat bolted in. I was able to just pop it free to do my work. As to the kick panel trim plate by the dead pedal, I did not remove it. I just fished the power cable under it. 

I am currently stuck on getting the cable into the trunk. I have it ran exactly to the rear seatbelt mounting point. Looks like I will have to go under the carpet from here unless I remove all of the rear interior trim, which looks like more trouble than it is worth....

I am trying to do this without cutting any of the carpet. You can stick your arm under the carpet from the trunk almost the entire way to the rear seatbelt mount. The problem is the floor pan dips down a bit here and there isn't much wiggle room without removing trim. I will try tomorrow with a volunteer's help.....


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## emdy (Nov 18, 2019)

Azatlas2019 said:


> The spare tire subs come Pre powered with built in amps. The Cerwin-Vega is 600 amps 150rms you can bridge that and make it 300 rms. Directions state 8 gauge power wire that’s what I ran. And then tapped into the wreath door speaker in the pillar behind drivers seat. It’s honestly pretty easy.


Thanks. I figured out the trailer wiring is too puny and will need to be replaced with 8ga. But I don't even have the cd player/head unit and don't want to mess with any of the hardware in the dash. I just want to tap into the rear door speaker with a powered sub and get a little extra bass. Any detail on how you connected the CV wiring to the B pillar wires would be appreciated.


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## mdtony (Mar 3, 2008)

I snipped the tip off "mozeltoff!":laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

A quick "tip".

If you push a long, narrow screw driver through the grommet (nipple) from the interior, you can make the nipple invert back towards you when you pull the screw driver back. This makes it easy to snip the tip. It would be impossible to do this from the engine bay without removal of a bunch of things.

I will try to route the power wire from the rear sill plate to the trunk today. I'll post pics if successful. Again, I don't want to remove all the rear trim. The rear bench would have to come out for that.

I am curious how others have done it. Chime in please!


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## Azatlas2019 (Jun 29, 2020)

speed51133! said:


> A quick "tip".
> 
> If you push a long, narrow screw driver through the grommet (nipple) from the interior, you can make the nipple invert back towards you when you pull the screw driver back. This makes it easy to snip the tip. It would be impossible to do this from the engine bay without removal of a bunch of things.
> 
> ...



I use a trim remover tool! 😉 I feel you’ve made your install the most complicated thing ever for anyone to even try the install. 


Really it’s not this hard. It is a reall easy install. Took me 1.5-2hrs max. That was pulling panels and floor board. Running 8 gauge power. Using the hi lo converse that the Cerwin-Vega came with. 


Anyone need help please feel free to ask me. I have k no problem walking I through the install


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## emdy (Nov 18, 2019)

speed51133! said:


> I am curious how others have done it. Chime in please!


Trailer wiring kits have you route the power cable on the underside of the vehicle and then drill a hole/grommet by the spare tire. There is a large plastic shield under the car that the wire can be tucked into and zip tied. Something to think about before you start tearing up trim.


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

finished. i was able to fish the power wire under the carpet. I can post pics later.


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

Azatlas2019 said:


> I feel you’ve made your install the most complicated thing ever for anyone to even try the install.
> 
> 
> Really it’s not this hard. It is a reall easy install. Took me 1.5-2hrs max. That was pulling panels and floor board. Running 8 gauge power. Using the hi lo converse that the Cerwin-Vega came with.
> ...


Come on man, I don't see what I made so complicated? I was just highlighting little details.


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

Here is the wire coming out of the rear sill plate:









I used a coat hanger to fish it under the carpet and wedged something under the carpet as it's stretched tight.










Once it was fished through, here is the final routing of the power wire.










all buttoned up










Yes, this is not complicated and yes it does not take a long time. For me though, I have experienced breaking clips on interior trim or not getting it to fit perfectly after removal. This is a new car and I took my time and looked lots of things up.

Next up I will run the RCA cable down the opposite side sill plates. I will use RCA's from the amp I already installed behind the glove box.


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## mdtony (Mar 3, 2008)

another question to people that added a sub. whether you use high level inputs or LOC with RCA cables you are splicing into speaker wire. Based on the comments above as well as the GTI install video link i see that people are using rear speakers to connect to. when i checked my car using a fader as to where most bass is coming from, it definitely the front not the rear. so since i plan to go with the cerwin vega and use high level inputs, shouldn't I splice into the front speakers since this is where the stock radio provides more bass signal?


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

The speaker wires are just a source signal. It doesn't matter if the fronts have a stronger signal. It is still well above what the amp needs.

I just finished my install and it is up and running. Sounds sooo good. I'll post some pics later. I ended up using a custom sub box, kicker 400x1 amp, and a 10in A/D/S sub that is like 15 years old! It was top-shelf back in the day and still rocks.
https://www.usaudiomart.com/details/649034218-ads_310rs_subwoofer/images/517313/

this are NOT my pics. Just some I found on the web of a similar sub make/model.


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## emdy (Nov 18, 2019)

If you only tap into the battery for power and the rear speaker for signal, how does the sub know to power on/off?


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

You use an amp that senses power in the speaker wire to auto turn on or senses the audio signal. My amp can do either one with a switch setting. Many amps have that feature. Or tap into some accessory like cig lighter.

On my amp I used the power sending in the speaker wire. The audio signal sending would not activate the amp at low volumes. I have a kicker ZX 400.1


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## dajuice1460 (Aug 30, 2020)

Thank you for this post. It influenced me to order one. Had the Sub installed in our Cross Sport few days ago. It really hits hard. The installer even said he didnt expect it to add that much bass! 
Was curious what you have your headunit bass/mid/treb set at, along with the setting on the Sub “remote” for the gain and LPF.


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

I actually used a kicker 400rms x 1 amp to a custom box and 10in sub. I set the head unit bass to -1 and adjusted the kicker gain accordingly.

I also have an amp for the interior speakers that is 45rms x 4.


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## officeboy (Mar 9, 2021)

No one is having any issues with the sub and the speaker level inputs introducing any delay? That came up in another thread and someone went to a DSP because of it (or maybe it was just the excuse for more fun stuff?)


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## Frstrtdmac (Jan 23, 2021)

dajuice1460 said:


> Thank you for this post. It influenced me to order one. Had the Sub installed in our Cross Sport few days ago. It really hits hard. The installer even said he didnt expect it to add that much bass!
> Was curious what you have your headunit bass/mid/treb set at, along with the setting on the Sub “remote” for the gain and LPF.


Can u post pics? I have a CS as well and wondering how to install? No rear door speaker to tap into etc..


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## officeboy (Mar 9, 2021)

Frstrtdmac said:


> Can u post pics? I have a CS as well and wondering how to install? No rear door speaker to tap into etc..


I'm planning to tap into the harness behind the glove box. Gives me some options if I want to add amplification in the future.


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