# HDI EBC-R electronic Boost Controller Install



## DurTTy (Aug 14, 2007)

Was running off the wastegate 0.5Bar for a little while now, so after doing some maintenance & IC work, i was ready to pump the boost up a little. 

was a little skeptical at first but found some promising material - so i went for it


 I opted fro the EBC-R, Got this for a fair price. --REFERENCE FOR THE EBC-R-- 

EBC-R package and contents 

























1.) figure out where you want to mount it and how you will secure it. 
http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/gadgetts_and_stuff/the_gadgett/page4.html :thumbup1:









2.) decide which mount you want to use and do a quick mock up. I opted for the one to the left of the driver side since it would be easy access to the device and shortest route to the firewall grommet. 









3.)Remove the vent, and test fit the connectors through the Vent fins. 
Once you ok with it begin to modify the Vent.
a.) remove gears that engage when you turn the aluminum ring on the outside
b.) remove the center "door" that open or closes inside the vent when you turn the aluminum ring.
c.)cut a small hole on the bottom of the Vent somewhere in front of the foam seal so that you can pass the cables/lines through i and still have the vent sealed to the passageways. 
d.) re-install the gears (merely optional i did this so i don't lose the little pieces later on if i decide to re-construct it.)



















I was originally going to route cables and lines through the vent on the dash but after inspecting it and considering the size of the connectors etc, it just made sense to go through the Driver side Vent.
Mocked it up to ensure a proper fit and realized the easy of installation with minimal modification. 

3.) remove the lower dash 
a.)remove the cover for the fuse box & remove 2 screws near the edge that hold the side of the lower dash
b.)2 screws just above the clutch and gas pedals. 
c.) now pull it out enough to see the connectors for the obd2, headlight switch and dimmer switch. -- un-clip all those


4.) Now time for the wiring of the EBC-R, it came with 1 Harness for power and ground to controller. 
learning from my Boost gauge experience, i knew that the headlight switch is the easiest 12V source closest to my device location and very close to is was a really good grounding spot on the lower dash. (another reason why i chose that vent) 

A.) Connecting Power (ignition on source) 
Simply tap into the big RED WIRE
-- not the clearest picture but you get the point









B.) Connecting Ground
I used the OEM grounding hub for the dash electronics, i simply tapped both the Boost Gauge Ground and the EBC-R ground into one common connector and then tightened it down with the OEM Nut. 

Black wire is EBC-R ground and Green is Boost Gauge into Yellow connector. 









5.) Time to get the Solenoid ready and Pass the wiring through the firewall grommet. USE THIS AS A REFERENCE FOR HOOKING UP ELECTRONIC SOLENOIDS TO A TURBO SYSTEM -- I have External Gate so my hose orientation is a little different than lets say a chipped car.

Using some NPT thread sealant connect the ports based on your specific orientation ***IF YOU EXTERNAL GATE DO NOT PLUG THE EMPTY PORT ***









here is a shot of the controller vs the solenoid size comparison









6.) while the sealant dries, pop the hood and get the WG ready. 
I used the originally supplied banjo fitting that came with my Tial 38mm


















7.)Time to get the Silicone Hoses in cut; mocked up, and ready for hook up. 
a.) disconnect the original hoses, take note of original orientation ( maskin tape and sharpie helps, i managed as only 2 hoses to remember.)

b.) connect the top WG port to Hose (will go straight to Solenoid after)









c.) connect the pressure side to T and the 2 remaining T ports go to bottom WG port and 1 to solenoid


















8.) Time to hook up Solenoid -- 

A.) find a place to mount it, somewhere secure and away from direct heat. -- i found that with the provided 3m dble sided tape and zip ties, i was able to securely and easily mount it and close to grommet on firewall. 









b.) connect the hoses (orientation does not matter as long as the correct orientation @ WG was done.)


















try to clean everything up, make it tidy wherever you can










9.) Run the Solenoid Harness through the firewall & run boost tube to the Controller both running through the vent. 


















I just used a T from the boost gauge for pressure/vacuum signal so i dont have to run a 2nd line through the grommet

Here is a decent pic from underneath the Vent to show you the hole i cut to mod the vent --- in this pic the Vent is fully pressed in 


















10.) Connect the EBC-R, i hid taped the harness with black electrical tape so that it doesnt look as obvious, i managed to tuck in the harness even more now than the pic, but you get the idea, only thing one can see is the p





















11.) Zip tie anything thats loose and clean up and re-install lower dash. 

DONE :tt1:

took me a few hours, the biggest time killer was figuring out where to mount the solenoid, then the solenoid connector wouldnt fit through grommet, had to take apart the 2 AWG stereo wire 1st and then pass it through, also tidying up took some time, had to make sure it was as clean as possible. 



Driving impressions::: havent really had a chance to play with it since i just did this last night, and i dont really have a track day booked until next weekend, but with the knob at 0 boost onset is noticeably quicker, im impressed. Also, with the knob at 0, i actually gained 1-2 psi hard to say without a digital gauge, but its definitely a small gain @ 0% correction (WG setting) 

One thing i do not like is the controller's knob is gloss black and it has a notch for the indicator which is etched on the knob. i know its at 0, but depending on the lighting, its really ****ing hard to tell where that notch is.:cursing::cursing: so for now, i have to make sure im at a full stop to take a good look at the setting (dont exactly want to focus on it while driving)

i have some silver touch up paint, i think im gonna put a lil dot or get the g-friend to get a nail polish and brighten up that lil groove. 


I am going to crank it up to the 1st "big marking" and see what kinda boost gain i get. :thumbup::thumbup1::thumbup:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

Since you're not getting any feedback from the controller (aka don't need to look at it), and I know it would undo all your hard work, but I think it would look a lot better just velcroed to the lower dash panel. Or maybe in the ashtray, though I see you're a smoker. lol Just a suggestion.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

20v master said:


> Since you're not getting any feedback from the controller (aka don't need to look at it), and I know it would undo all your hard work, but I think it would look a lot better just velcroed to the lower dash panel. Or maybe in the ashtray, though I see you're a smoker. lol Just a suggestion.


Agreed. I'm not a fan of exposed components because they take away from the "factory" appearance. You could always mount it in your visor and run the wires down your pillar. IMO this is your best bet for 2 reasons.
1. No visible anything.
2. It's right above eye level making visiblity as good as it gets.

I know it took some work, but I ended up doing probably half my projects over again. Usually to get the "fit and finish" right. If I get done with something and it's not acceptable to me, it will end up chapping my ass until I get it right.


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## DurTTy (Aug 14, 2007)

i have a tendency of hitting the lower dash, i have a lot of random shoe marks i constantly have clean :sly: i had a remote base controller for my amp set up there and it didnt last long, had to relocate it. 

i just want to be able to reach for it. i made the wires a little more tidy, but the boost hose doesnt really bother me. 

later on i am going to runt he AEM tru-boost so ill have that in a Modshack Vent adaptor. 

but, for now, i need to turn the boost up for the track and on the fly. 


:::UPDATE::: the controller works really well, much better than a manual boost controller. 
i had 3 diff manual controllers, they all worked and did what they were intended to do. 1 thing i did not like about MBC is spiking and at times wonky part throttle response compound the fact that you have to stop pop the hood, then make a couple of turns, drive around for a few mins/kms, then check to see if its working.... time killer

on the other hand, with this EBC the change in boost is pretty much instantaneous, i dial in the knob, push it in to lock it. 
give it some gas and it right away hits the new boost. 

onset of boost is much improved, right now im 3.5 "notches" on the controller and boost 17psi holds steady, no spiking.

going to see what 1/2 setting on the controller will get me to.


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## BSD (Jul 8, 2008)

*Hm*



DurTTy said:


> i have a tendency of hitting the lower dash, i have a lot of random shoe marks i constantly have clean :sly: i had a remote base controller for my amp set up there and it didnt last long, had to relocate it.
> 
> i just want to be able to reach for it. i made the wires a little more tidy, but the boost hose doesnt really bother me.
> 
> ...


Good stuff! Any more news?


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## ModsTTand (Jul 8, 2009)

Thank you for sharing ur find 

Couple of questions?

1- Is it connected parallel with n75 ?
2- ever consider checking out PLX digital gauge That gives all the sensors reading (52 size gauge)

all the best


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## DurTTy (Aug 14, 2007)

ModsTTand said:


> Thank you for sharing ur find
> 
> Couple of questions?
> 
> ...


no N75, 
im goign to get a digital WB gauge and then eventually AEM Tru-boost that shows digital boost display and boost controller at once. 



> Good stuff! Any more news?


UPDATE: 1/2 way boosts 20-21 psi, checking AFRs via Maestro, so far so good
fack.... what a rush lol. quattro really glues you to the seat w/o any wheel spin.


gotta be care full now when passing others on the highway cuz i pick up speed REALLY quick, dont want to get a bad ticket


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## BSD (Jul 8, 2008)

*hm*



DurTTy said:


> no N75,
> im goign to get a digital WB gauge and then eventually AEM Tru-boost that shows digital boost display and boost controller at once.
> 
> 
> ...


Awesome, can't wait to order mine up. 

C'mon, turn it up all the way, it'll be alright.  hehehe.


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## cablekid (Apr 26, 2011)

Are you running any software on your car?


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## BSD (Jul 8, 2008)

*hm*



cablekid said:


> Are you running any software on your car?


He is running Eurodyne with Maestro suite. He can adjust fuel/spark/boost etc.


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## cablekid (Apr 26, 2011)

How much dose that cost?

Also how can you adjust the spark/fuel ect.. when you turn it up in the car?

Dose it have preset flashes?


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## PLAYED TT (Oct 17, 2010)

huh


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## BSD (Jul 8, 2008)

*Hm*



cablekid said:


> How much dose that cost?
> 
> Also how can you adjust the spark/fuel ect.. when you turn it up in the car?
> 
> Dose it have preset flashes?


Eurodyne FAQ

There you go bud! :thumbup:


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## DurTTy (Aug 14, 2007)

cablekid said:


> Are you running any software on your car?


yes i run 630CC MAffless Tapp File (Eurdyne) 
BSD linked you to the site, if you interested, just search up a local dealer for Eurodyne. 

the program is "self learning" but still requires tweaking in order to get a smooth and safe setup. 

::: Update :::

went to the track on saturday, was running around on 20psi, 

cranked it to just over 3/4, was bosting 30 psi for about 15-20 mins then it settled back down between 25-30psi. i think my IC may need to be upgraded in order to sustain stable boost levels for 25+ psi. 

did data logs and a bunch of laps on the track, everything is running smooth, i handed the data logs to my tuner, he wants to see if he can squeeze it a bit more on pump gas before we move to w/m injection as well. 


:::SIDE NOTE::: the EBC-R works amazing and very responsive, but, now that i've had it and been driving daily with it and a rocket switch for WG pressure, i really now realize that i would have enjoyed the dual stage setup of the SBC-D SE (as posted on the original link that inspired this thread + purchase) for example, in the city 20 + psi is waaaaaaay too hectic, i left the 25psi setting on and drove around town and its too much for traffic. having the 1st dial max 15psi and the other 15-30 psi seems really practical for DD and weekend tracking. 

for 100 + shipping i may give it a shot and see which one i like better.


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## BSD (Jul 8, 2008)

DurTTy said:


> yes i run 630CC MAffless Tapp File (Eurdyne)
> BSD linked you to the site, if you interested, just search up a local dealer for Eurodyne.
> 
> the program is "self learning" but still requires tweaking in order to get a smooth and safe setup.
> ...


I'd be interested in picking off yours if thats the case. I would be comfortable with just a single setting sooooo, let me know! :thumbup:

Thanks again for the reviews and info! Its good having an opinion from someone on the tex!


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## ModsTTand (Jul 8, 2009)

*up for great find.*

here you go EBC crowd , our friend found us a trophy.


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

If you plan on keeping the car until it goes to the grave, you could always cut a part out of the dash near the left airvent to fit the control knob. You could cut it under the air vent, have a working air vent, AND have a boost controller on that side of your car. The black knob would match the interior color, but you'd have to make the new hole look as stock as possible.


Just a suggeston


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Even better, get a button blank from an early TT (no ESP = black plastic insert instead of actual button under center vents) and install the switch in that. Voila, no hacking, piece is made to fit, completely reversible :thumbup:


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## Chuckmeister87 (Nov 10, 2009)

l88m22vette said:


> Even better, get a button blank from an early TT (no ESP = black plastic insert instead of actual button under center vents) and install the switch in that. Voila, no hacking, piece is made to fit, completely reversible :thumbup:


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## bl33su (Jun 15, 2010)

is there any spiking?

the HDi website doesnt say the EBC-R is closed loop where they mention it in the dual stage version..


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