# whats the stock boost level of a 225Q TT?



## gtr_gtti (Aug 16, 2008)

I've got my boost gauge showing 0.3Bar... Isn't it suppose to be 0.8bar? Whats happening?


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## 1.8Tabamoura (Jul 29, 2005)

*Re: whats the stock boost level of a 225Q TT? (gtr_gtti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtr_gtti* »_I've got my boost gauge showing 0.3Bar... Isn't it suppose to be 0.8bar? Whats happening?


touch the screen so I can connect to you and see whats happening ..


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: whats the stock boost level of a 225Q TT? (gtr_gtti)*

Not sure what's happening but stock Boost on a 225 is around 14.5 Psi. Not sure what that is converted in bars.


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## roadyTT (Mar 28, 2006)

1 BAR = 14.5psi at sea level...
.3 BAR equates to about 4psi...sounds like limp mode to me.


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: (roadyTT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *roadyTT* »_1 BAR = 14.5psi at sea level...
.3 BAR equates to about 4psi...sounds like limp mode to me.

Yup, it sure does. You have to clear your codes and find the cause or it will just come back.


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## gtr_gtti (Aug 16, 2008)

*Re: (roadyTT)*

hmm...limp mode...how to I clear the limp mode?


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## Murderface (Nov 13, 2006)

*Re: (gtr_gtti)*

usually turn your car off and on again if it's soft limp, if it's hard you'll need to undo your battery for about 15 mins.


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## kclax44 (Aug 4, 2008)

*Re: (Murderface)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Murderface* »_usually turn your car off and on again if it's soft limp, if it's hard you'll need to undo your battery for about 15 mins.


uh... are we still talking about cars?


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

*Re: (kclax44)*

tt's stock do not hit a bar...more like 10-12


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: (Krissrock)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Krissrock* »_tt's stock do not hit a bar...more like 10-12

You must have one of those old and tired TT's








My 04 did 14psi all day long prior to the REVO tune. After the Revo it was hitting 25/26psi which threw me at times into limp mode so I turned down the boost to 22/23psi peak and holding at 20psi.


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: (kclax44)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kclax44* »_

uh... are we still talking about cars?









Yes, what are you talking about? If you need little blue pills please see your doctor


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

*Re: (IndyTTom)*

do you have an H valve?


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: (Krissrock)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Krissrock* »_do you have an H valve?

Not sure what an "H" valve is? I do have a Modshack Boost Machine that you can control onset and boost. I also can turn down the boost and other settings via the SPS 3 switch that I have from REVO.
That way you can tweak and fine tune your settings a bit.


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

*Re: (IndyTTom)*

h vavle...some have F valve, J valve...they change the way the boost spikes and tapers off...goes right behind the MAF. That raises the boost to 14 for otherwise stock TT's. I've never heard of anyone hitting 14 stock. there are chips that don't put you much over that...
I guess I can only speak for my car though, I was hitting 10-12 stock, then 12-14 with h valve.


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: (Krissrock)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Krissrock* »_h vavle...some have F valve, J valve...they change the way the boost spikes and tapers off...goes right behind the MAF. That raises the boost to 14 for otherwise stock TT's. I've never heard of anyone hitting 14 stock. there are chips that don't put you much over that...
I guess I can only speak for my car though, I was hitting 10-12 stock, then 12-14 with h valve. 

Never heard of any H. J or F vavles before. I hope that little gadget didn't set you back too much. What you need is a tune and you easily can hit 22+ on that 225 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
From anything I have ever read is that the stock 225 boost 14.5psi but I guess you can't always believe what you read








However, one thing is for sure if there are any chips or tunes out there that don't put you over 14psi you are not using the right chip. 
So forget about the E-bay chips and get a REVO Tune or an APR chip and you will see a BIG... No HUGE difference in performance.


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## gtr_gtti (Aug 16, 2008)

*Re: (IndyTTom)*

I've got an electronic boost controller, which prior to my GIAC flash tune, i had a boost spike to 1.4bar, which after that, car feels weird. then when i take out the boost controller valve, put to original n75, it went on to boost only 0.3bar. put back boost controller valve, can boost up to 0.7bar, anything higher, feels like the car gets a fuel cut....
also, i see my ESP light came on permanently and unable to cancel it unless i off the car after trying to boost above 0.7bar... 
this car is weird!


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## Krissrock (Sep 10, 2005)

*Re: (IndyTTom)*

ok...the N75 is what i'm talking about 
here http://www.ecstuning.com/stage...D=122
There are different models of it...with different attributes...but anyway, yes, chips are the way the way to go...I got the valve way back when I first bought the car when i couldn't afford a chip yet


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: (gtr_gtti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtr_gtti* »_I've got an electronic boost controller, which prior to my GIAC flash tune, i had a boost spike to 1.4bar, which after that, car feels weird. then when i take out the boost controller valve, put to original n75, it went on to boost only 0.3bar. put back boost controller valve, can boost up to 0.7bar, anything higher, feels like the car gets a fuel cut....
also, i see my ESP light came on permanently and unable to cancel it unless i off the car after trying to boost above 0.7bar... 
this car is weird!

I personally wouldn't run an electronic Boost Controler on the TT because it doesn't have a bleed off valve. Without a bleed off valve the boost will come on very erratic and jerky. Also I am not so sure about the GIAC tune/chip. So far I didn't hear anything good about their chip/tune. I am using the Modshack Manual Boost Controler with my REVO tune not to necessarily to up the Boost but to smooth out the oncome of the boost. Makes the whole experience a lot smoother and more linear without hesitation or jerkiness.
http://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/1307431.phtml
I say there is something wrong with your tune if you can't go over 10-12 psi. I think you are in soft limp mode probably due to initially overboosting. The ECU will restrict to a SAFE or soft Limp mode which will let you boost up to about 10psi in Hard Limp you can only boost around 4-5 psi. The only way to tell for sure is to hook it up to a Vag com and to read the codes. It can read codes even if you don't show a CEL which Soft Limp mode will not throw a CEL. 
If you have someone close with a VAG com have them hook it up and get a reading. Then clear the codes and see if you go into limp again.
If so there is an underlying reason that needs to be addressed. 
Good Luck!


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: (Krissrock)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Krissrock* »_ok...the N75 is what i'm talking about 
here http://www.ecstuning.com/stage...D=122
There are different models of it...with different attributes...but anyway, yes, chips are the way the way to go...I got the valve way back when I first bought the car when i couldn't afford a chip yet


I actually had one of those and it caused nothing but trouble. I finally just switched back to the stock N75 valve and it ran a lot better.
If you do get chipped definitely don't run that spiked N75. Instead run a Manual Boost Controler with a Bleed Valve or a Boostmachine.
Either one will work a heck of a lot better than any N75 valves out there.


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## JettaRed (Aug 14, 2000)

*Re: (IndyTTom)*

A comment about different N75 valves: different (other than stock) valves are somewhat unpredictable how they will act. My experience with GIAC software is it likes the stock valve. I have it on my 2000 A4, my 2004 TT, and had it on my 2001 A4. All three cars ran best with the stock valve.
Revo, however, seems to work fine with both the stock (N75F) and N75H or N75J valves. I ran a N75H on my 2003 GTI with Revo with no problems.
But...I can say that my best performance has been with the BoostMachine to control boost smoothness. While the N75 is about half the price of a BoostMachine, the BoostMachine is infinitely adjustable and well worth the price.


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: (JettaRed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JettaRed* »_
But...I can say that my best performance has been with the BoostMachine to control boost smoothness. While the N75 is about half the price of a BoostMachine, the BoostMachine is infinitely adjustable and well worth the price.

Amen to that brother, AMEN







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
It takes a little tweaking but once you have it set you can forget about it and just enjoy a nice powerful, smooth ride http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## gtr_gtti (Aug 16, 2008)

*Re: (JettaRed)*

OOoo... boost machine.... but erm, how do we tune it? Honestly speaking, we have drastic lack of tuners for VAG cars in Singapore... Japanese rice tuners we have plenty, BMW tuners we have a couple of good ones too, but VAG is lacking.


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## JettaRed (Aug 14, 2000)

*Re: (gtr_gtti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtr_gtti* »_OOoo... boost machine.... but erm, how do we tune it? Honestly speaking, we have drastic lack of tuners for VAG cars in Singapore... Japanese rice tuners we have plenty, BMW tuners we have a couple of good ones too, but VAG is lacking.

Tune it by feel. Onset for smoothness and Boost for peak boost.


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: (gtr_gtti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtr_gtti* »_OOoo... boost machine.... but erm, how do we tune it? Honestly speaking, we have drastic lack of tuners for VAG cars in Singapore... Japanese rice tuners we have plenty, BMW tuners we have a couple of good ones too, but VAG is lacking.

You don't need a friggin' tuner to set your Boost Machine







All you do is set your onset (left valve) first. Usually about 2 turns works great for most. From there you can try 1/4 turn increments to fine tune it but a little goes a long way. I had mine turned up a tad too high and Steve Schwing the inventor actually set it at the TT EASt get together. Now it is sitting at 2 turns out and it is pretty much perfect.
The boost is the right valve and I would start with 3 turns out and fine tune from there. Don't go crazy with that. I turned it up to 26 psi peak and it constantly went into Limp mode. I then turned it down to about 22 psi and it is perfect now. On a stock Turbo anything past 22 psi and you are just producing heat and no performance. 
The boost machine is very easy to set up and if you are chipped it is a great addition to smooth out the boost and have it come on much earlier via the onset valve. It works great with APR and REVO. I don't think it works with GIAC but check the Modshack site and see what it says.


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## JettaRed (Aug 14, 2000)

*Re: (IndyTTom)*


_Quote, originally posted by *IndyTTom* »_
...I don't think it works with GIAC but check the Modshack site and see what it says. 

It works great with GIAC.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (JettaRed)*

It works with whatever set-up you have, but you can get very similar results with a MBC that has a secondary bleed adjustment - it costs less and it takes up less space...
TurboXS BC-HPBC: 











_Modified by l88m22vette at 9:52 PM 8-19-2008_


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## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*

MMMMmmmm my favorite... well almost. I have the old blue version with the dual hex adjustments instead of a clickable bleed


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## gtr_gtti (Aug 16, 2008)

ok... so do u suggest I take out my greddy Profec B spec II electronic boost controller, replace with a modshack boostmachine or MBC? Would it give better results? 
will running at 22psi be safe? or is it better kept at 16-18psi? Temperature here in Singapore is approximately 33 deg Celsius or 92 deg fahrenheit all year round in the day and 28 deg Celsius (83 deg F) at night.


_Modified by gtr_gtti at 1:04 AM 8-20-2008_


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## turbott920 (Nov 13, 2007)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_It works with whatever set-up you have.

I don't know this is necessarily true in regaurds to the Boost Machine or not...I talked to Steve (maker of Boost Machine) a long time ago and he told me it wouldn't work well with Dahlback...I don't know exactly why but he said something about it being an aggressive chip to start and that it would be nonbenificial to run.


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## JettaRed (Aug 14, 2000)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_It works with whatever set-up you have, but you can get very similar results with a MBC that has a secondary bleed adjustment - it costs less and it takes up less space...


I have both--the BoostMachine and the TurboXs HPBC, and prefer the BoostMachine. Space ain't a problem and the BoostMachine is much easier to dial in.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (JettaRed)*

Can you post up some pics of the mounting for the BM Jetta? That doesn't look as big as I thought it was...


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: (turbott920)*


_Quote, originally posted by *turbott920* »_
I don't know this is necessarily true in regaurds to the Boost Machine or not...I talked to Steve (maker of Boost Machine) a long time ago and he told me it wouldn't work well with Dahlback...I don't know exactly why but he said something about it being an aggressive chip to start and that it would be nonbenificial to run.

That is the chip it doesn't work with not GIAC. Thanks for clearing that up. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_It works with whatever set-up you have, but you can get very similar results with a MBC that has a secondary bleed adjustment - it costs less and it takes up less space...
TurboXS BC-HPBC: 


No Thanks. I have my boost machine set up perfectly now and I am not going to experiment with another Toy that will perhaps net similar results. Besides the Boost Machine mounts very easily with the supplies bracket and looks very clean where it is located. Easy to get to and easy to adjust. But I am sure the TurboXS with the Bleed valve works just as well and can be hidden out of the way if that is your goal.


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: (gtr_gtti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gtr_gtti* »_ok... so do u suggest I take out my greddy Profec B spec II electronic boost controller, replace with a modshack boostmachine or MBC? Would it give better results? 
will running at 22psi be safe? or is it better kept at 16-18psi? Temperature here in Singapore is approximately 33 deg Celsius or 92 deg fahrenheit all year round in the day and 28 deg Celsius (83 deg F) at night.

_Modified by gtr_gtti at 1:04 AM 8-20-2008_

Well, the choice is yours. I don't think your Greddy Boost controler has a bleed valve or can adjust the onset like the other two options can. So I think you would benefit in the Boost Machine or the other MBC mentioned. But make sure that your car is running properly prior to installing any Boost Controller. If you have issues it will not fix them and could make them worse. 
22psi on the stock k04 Turbo is very safe. Mine right now spikes around 22/23 and hold boost at 20psi which is plenty of boost.
Actually in Higher Temperature more humid weather you need more boost to compansate. When it gets cooler here with more denser air you can run less boost. So in cooler climates - less boost and hot/humid climate - more boost. But don't go crazy. 22/23psi is the most you should run on a stock Turbo. Any more and you are just producing heat and no power.


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## gtr_gtti (Aug 16, 2008)

*Re: (IndyTTom)*

Thanks very much IndyTT... I'll try to sort out my N75 boosting at 0.3-0.4bar problem first... Local mechanics here cant find any fault code for my car when they put in the VAGCOM... Even tried changing the N75, but problem still persists....
My TT is giving me so much problems I am almost giving up on it.... 
New problem I found, Boosting any higher than 1 bar (14.5PSI) would result in serious pre-ignition problems to my car... I pump 95 Octane Unleaded. should be considered as 91RON.... I tried 98 Unleaded but problem still the same...


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: (gtr_gtti)*

Sounds like you are having missfires. Vag com should have shown all that. Are you sure those guys that you have taken the car to know what they are doing? If you have missfires then it could be that one of more of your coils are bad. Have those check and replace if necessary. Also check your spark plugs and make sure that they are properly gapped. Stock gap is .032 and chipped .028. 
I would also do a pressure test on the system. You could have a boost leak somewhere. Check the hose coming off the turbo to the upper metal hose. It is known to fail and slip off. Here are the spark plugs I use NGK - Spark Plugs (#BKR7E)-Set Of 4 Plugs ES#8924
and this is the hose I am talking about. http://www.ttstuff.com/Merchan...225TH


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## -TT- (Apr 13, 2008)

*Re: (IndyTTom)*

hmm.... looks like im hitting my highest psi of 11 in 3rd or 4th gear (forgot which one it was the other day)
Im in a 225q with DV and intake.. boost leak ?


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: (-TT-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-TT-* »_hmm.... looks like im hitting my highest psi of 11 in 3rd or 4th gear (forgot which one it was the other day)
Im in a 225q with DV and intake.. boost leak ?

Hard to say. Are you chipped or tuned? What DV do you have?


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## -TT- (Apr 13, 2008)

*Re: (IndyTTom)*

no chip..Dahlback DV


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: (-TT-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-TT-* »_hmm.... looks like im hitting my highest psi of 11 in 3rd or 4th gear (forgot which one it was the other day)
Im in a 225q with DV and intake.. boost leak ?

Hmm, if you were chipped I would say you are in "Soft" Limp mode.
Happened to me in the beginning when I boosted over 26psi. 
The ECU then says No Way dude and hits Soft Limp mode which limits your boost to about 9-11psi. Hard Limp is worse and you go down to about 5psi. But since you are not chipped it is very unlikely.
You should be able to hit 13-14psi very easliy. I have no experience with the Dahlback DV. If it is a piston/spring type did it come with different tension springs? You should always run the weakest spring that still holds boost. I have the fully adjustable Forge Splitter DV which is GREAT since you can adjust it very easily without taking it off the car. I have it on the softest setting and the car runs a lot better than if I were to stiffen it up. 
I would do a pressure test on the car. Without a pressure test it is very diffcult to trace a boost leak. You can check all the hoses and clamps and make sure they are tight. Check also your boost gauge connections and make sure that there are no vaccum leaks.


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## -TT- (Apr 13, 2008)

*Re: (IndyTTom)*

how do you do this.. or how much does it cost ?


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: (-TT-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-TT-* »_how do you do this.. or how much does it cost ?

Do you mean a pressure test? I am not sure how much it costs. Your dealer can do it or you can get a tool like this:
http://www.modshack.info/Pressure.htm
But you also need an aircompressor in order to perform the test.
Before you invest any money I would take off the plastic covers and check all the hoses to make sure they are not loose and clamped down tight. Then I would check your Boost gauge connections to make sure that there isn't a vacuum leak somewhere. 
Do you have someone with a VAG com in your area that might hook it up and scan it to see what codes might pop up? That will help a lot.
What is your vacuum reading on your boost gauge at idle warmed up? You may also try and take your DV apart and clean it and relube it. It is possible that it is sticking. How long ago did you buy it? 
After you clean it you can use some clear High temperature grease to lube it but don't get carried away. A little coating goes a long way, overgreasing it will also cause it to stick. 
What kind of intake are you running?


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## -TT- (Apr 13, 2008)

*Re: (IndyTTom)*


_Quote, originally posted by *IndyTTom* »_
Do you mean a pressure test? I am not sure how much it costs. Your dealer can do it or you can get a tool like this:
http://www.modshack.info/Pressure.htm
But you also need an aircompressor in order to perform the test.
Before you invest any money I would take off the plastic covers and check all the hoses to make sure they are not loose and clamped down tight. Then I would check your Boost gauge connections to make sure that there isn't a vacuum leak somewhere. 
Do you have someone with a VAG com in your area that might hook it up and scan it to see what codes might pop up? That will help a lot.
What is your vacuum reading on your boost gauge at idle warmed up? You may also try and take your DV apart and clean it and relube it. It is possible that it is sticking. How long ago did you buy it? 
After you clean it you can use some clear High temperature grease to lube it but don't get carried away. A little coating goes a long way, overgreasing it will also cause it to stick. 
What kind of intake are you running? 


I'll take a look at the link.. i have no air compressor and I dont know but i am sure there has to be someone in Raleigh that has a VAG com ??
I am not sure what the vac is off hand.. what should it read? Also is there any specific reading i am suppose to get while driving for the vac ?
I checked all the hoses and they are all clamped on tightly.. I bought the DV from a member here so I am not sure how old it is but it is spring actuated. If i take it apart how would i know if it needs greasing.. just if its dry ?
My intake is a "short ram" piece coming off the MAF and a piece of silicon hosing holding a K&N Cone filter.


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## JettaRed (Aug 14, 2000)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_Can you post up some pics of the mounting for the BM Jetta? That doesn't look as big as I thought it was...


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: (-TT-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-TT-* »_
I'll take a look at the link.. i have no air compressor and I dont know but i am sure there has to be someone in Raleigh that has a VAG com ??
I am not sure what the vac is off hand.. what should it read? Also is there any specific reading i am suppose to get while driving for the vac ?
I checked all the hoses and they are all clamped on tightly.. I bought the DV from a member here so I am not sure how old it is but it is spring actuated. If i take it apart how would i know if it needs greasing.. just if its dry ?
My intake is a "short ram" piece coming off the MAF and a piece of silicon hosing holding a K&N Cone filter.

All piston type DV's need to be cleaned and regreased ever so often. 
I clean mine every 6 months or every other oil change. If you bought it used the first thing I would have done before installing it would have taken it apart and inspected it, then cleaned it and regreased it.
Make sure the silicone seals are in tact and clean the spring and piston. Then put it back together and reinstall. It's pretty easy. 
You really won't really make full use of the aftermarket DV since you are not tuned or chipped yet. It is possible the spring is too stiff and you may not make enough boost to open the DV all the way. That is speculation on my part. More than likely it is fine. I heard of Dahlback but didn't even realize they made a DV. I have experience with several different Forge models and a Hyperboost. Overall I like the Forge Spillter the best since it is easily adjustable. 
Your vacuum should be between 18-20 at idle once the car is warmed up. Are you planning on getting Revo tuned or APR chipped in the near future? I think you will like that mod a lot. It is expensive but it's a one time investment that will give you the most noticable seat of the pants improvement in performance of any other mod unless you go with a Big Turbo. Look for a REVO retailer in your area. You can get a Try before you buy trial tune. They will install a standard REVO tune on your car and you can drive it for about 4 hours before it reverts back to stock. They are pretty sure that you come back with a smile on your face to make this tune permanent







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I did ... twice. First on my 2001 TT and then on my 2004 TT. 
Give it a try. It costs nothing and you can further test if your car works like it should. On the trail software you should be boosting around 20psi. It's a tad milder than the permanent tune. I have hit 26+ with the Revo Tune and I had to turn my boost machine way down. Now I am spiking around 22-23 and am holding boost at 20psi all day long. It really runs strong and it's like a whole different car. I think you will like it.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Modified by IndyTTom at 9:04 PM 8-29-2008_


_Modified by IndyTTom at 9:06 PM 8-29-2008_


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## -TT- (Apr 13, 2008)

Thanks.. tomorrow I will see what my vac is at and will take apart the DV.
I am planning on a chip, thats why I went with the intake and DV as my first performance mods.. I have a shop here that does Revo.. i've always wanted to go try it out but, is there ANY problems with doing the test ? I have heard that if you do the test and you dont go back to get it chipped then it might alter your ECU a little and drop you down a couple psi.. is this stupid or a possibility?


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: (-TT-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-TT-* »_Thanks.. tomorrow I will see what my vac is at and will take apart the DV.
I am planning on a chip, thats why I went with the intake and DV as my first performance mods.. I have a shop here that does Revo.. i've always wanted to go try it out but, is there ANY problems with doing the test ? I have heard that if you do the test and you dont go back to get it chipped then it might alter your ECU a little and drop you down a couple psi.. is this stupid or a possibility?

Who told you that fairy tale? It is a simple program that has a timer built in and will delete itself after 4 hours of use. There are not drawbacks to giving it a try. Friends of mine have done it and didn't get tuned until they could afford it and they didn't report any such issues after the trial reverted back to stock. Most of them however did get the REVO tune either at that time or a couple of weeks down the line. Best bang for your buck in my opinion. When you get tuned permanently please make sure you get one heat range cooler plugs and gap them at ,028 to help prevent detonation. I use the NGK copper plugs which are GREAT. You do have to change them once a year but at less than 10 bucks for a set it is cheap insurance. 
Now go give that Revo a try and I bet it will put a smile on your face! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## -TT- (Apr 13, 2008)

*Re: (IndyTTom)*


_Quote, originally posted by *IndyTTom* »_
All piston type DV's need to be cleaned and regreased ever so often. 
Your vacuum should be between 18-20 at idle once the car is warmed up. 

I am going to clean it soon, but i forgot to ask.. what kind of grease do i use ?
Also I checked the vac and it was around 25.. is that bad ? what could effect it if it is less than 20 and what if its more than 20 ?
thanks


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: (-TT-)*

I used some Mobile 1 Synthetic Grease. It's about 7 bucks at Autozone and will last you forever. Remember clean it thourghly and then lightly grease it and don't get carried away. 
Not sure about the high vacuum reading. I will so some asking around and searching on the forums and will let you know. 
Could be a small vacuum leak perhaps. Did you check all the little hoses? Check the hose going into the FPR. It got brittle on my car and I had to have it replaced.


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## -TT- (Apr 13, 2008)

I will go around again tomorrow and check all hoses once i get some grease to clean the DV. 
What is a FPR though?


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: (-TT-)*

Fuel Pressure regulator. When you take the engine cover off it is the silver round looking thing with hoses going into. Probably where your hoses go via a T from your Boost Gauge.


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## -TT- (Apr 13, 2008)

*Re: (IndyTTom)*

costs a lot to replace ? Any way to know its bad? 
I got a CEL today.. gotta take it in and see whats wrong.
Also i looked on eBay for a VAGcom.. is this all i need ? Do i have to download any program or is it all there ? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW


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## storx (Dec 6, 2006)

yall know all an H valve (racing N75) is... is an N75 off an Audi A5000


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: (-TT-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-TT-* »_costs a lot to replace ? Any way to know its bad? 
I got a CEL today.. gotta take it in and see whats wrong.
Also i looked on eBay for a VAGcom.. is this all i need ? Do i have to download any program or is it all there ? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW 

Wow, that is a cheap cable. Not sure if the programs from Ross-Tech will work with that cheapo cable. Here is the Real Ross-Tech site:
http://www.ross-tech.com/Merch...AGCOM
I don't think your FPR is bad. Maybe just the hose going to it. Do you still have those old style cloth braided covered hoses? If so they are the first to go. Gets some hoses from Hose techniques and replace them. They are silicone and last pretty much forever compared to the cheap rubber kind. 
You can get it by the foot or a kit. The universal kit works pretty much for any car. I bought some by the foot and replaced pretty much all the vacuum hoses with pretty red silicone ones








http://www.hosetechniques.com/products/index.php


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## -TT- (Apr 13, 2008)

*Re: (IndyTTom)*

yea i do have the braided ones !
I like that website.. i'll def have to get some goodies


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: (-TT-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-TT-* »_yea i do have the braided ones !
I like that website.. i'll def have to get some goodies

I have used the 6mm line the most. There are nice quality and last a long time. Even Audi/VW later switched to a more durable and more heat resistant type rubber hose that no longer has the braided cover. Those things just baked from the heat of the engine and after time became hard and brittle. Plus switching to the silicone hoses will make your engine compartment look a lot better http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## -TT- (Apr 13, 2008)

*Re: (IndyTTom)*

So lets say I want to order some hosing from this place.. it would only make sense to go ahead and change over most of the hoses I can, maybe if i get to the $75 i can get the free shipping.
But what size and how much do i need of each ? I would like to replace as many hoses that i can, that would make sense to change, that i dont need to remove parts and get crazy under the hood. Yea it will look good with the red hoses, but i do want to replace the braided ones and any others that are worthwhile.
thanks
Also anyone else have any experience with these eBay VAG com cables ?


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## -TT- (Apr 13, 2008)

*Re: (-TT-)*

Can i use synthetic blend grease to clean the DV ? They were all out of full synthetic


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: (-TT-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-TT-* »_Can i use synthetic blend grease to clean the DV ? They were all out of full synthetic 

Not for cleaning but for regreasing. That is fine. Make sure it is a "HIGH TEMP" grease. It will last longer. To clean the DV I would just wipe it with a cotton or microfibre cloth until all the old grease is off and then regrease with the new stuff. A little goes a long way








Not sure about the length of the hoses. I got a pic from one of the members that showed all the hoses replaced and I just estimated the approximate length. I think you will need at least about 14 feet of the 6mm stuff and I am not sure how many feet of the other diameters. I just took 10 feet of the other stuff since that is more than likely the minimum they sell you.


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## -TT- (Apr 13, 2008)

*Re: (IndyTTom)*

it says -10 - 385 F
Also I love the hoses, as i took off the DV i noticed the braided hose was a little crinkly. I'll be looking into the sizes and which ones i need to change soon.


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## -TT- (Apr 13, 2008)

*Re: (-TT-)*

i found a couple places that sell silicone hoses.. is there really a difference ? 
There are a lot of kits that are very expensive and some that are very cheap.. if its 6mm hose, how can it be worth the extra $20
thanks


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## IndyTTom (Oct 23, 2007)

*Re: (-TT-)*


_Quote, originally posted by *-TT-* »_i found a couple places that sell silicone hoses.. is there really a difference ? 
There are a lot of kits that are very expensive and some that are very cheap.. if its 6mm hose, how can it be worth the extra $20
thanks

I don't know about the other places. All I know is that the Hose technique hoses are of high quality and will last. Well worth the money.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (IndyTTom)*

I'd suggest calling around to auto parts places, a half-hour on the phone is a lot better than waiting a week for your parts. So long as the hoses are actually silicone, you should be fine


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## TRONN (Sep 9, 2011)

I have a 93 Octane map done to my 2001 TT, Roadster. I just took it out for a drive... 32ish LB boost. 
https://1drv.ms/f/s!Aha7Ma8Nrs7ElXoN-javJtEypm2C


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

We have some old threads here, don't we?

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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

TRONN said:


> I have a 93 Octane map done to my 2001 TT, Roadster. I just took it out for a drive... 32ish LB boost.
> https://1drv.ms/f/s!Aha7Ma8Nrs7ElXoN-javJtEypm2C


I think you forgot to subtract atmospheric pressure :laugh: (the tune is closer to 18 psi). Nice work finding an 8 year old thread :beer:


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

I was thinking the same thing. I have a 93 octane tune as well, and though I don't have a boost gauge, I think 18-21psi is the most you can get from it...

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## Silver TT (Jan 26, 2015)

Pretty sure the map limit is 22 psi. Meaning it can't read anything higher than that. The actual boost may be higher than the map limit, however. 
That's a major limitation of reading the boost over the K-line, also it's much slower than an analog or mechanical boost gauge.


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## Silver TT (Jan 26, 2015)

TRONN said:


> I have a 93 Octane map done to my 2001 TT, Roadster. I just took it out for a drive... 32ish LB boost.
> https://1drv.ms/f/s!Aha7Ma8Nrs7ElXoN-javJtEypm2C


Are you using the torque app? I didn't think the boost was displayed on our cars with the ELM327 interface?? That's why the Liquid TT display doesn't use it - you can't access the measuring blocks with the ELM327. Maybe it works only for 2001 and older ECU's... or I'm missing something...


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

Possibly. I have Vag-com as well. Can I pull a reading off of that to compare? 

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## Silver TT (Jan 26, 2015)

Did a little reading, it's "guessing" the boost pressure based on other measured variables > The same way you can estimate the horse power of the engine by dividing the maximum flow of the MAF by .8, or something like that... Which is why the 32 psi is way off...

I pulled this off the S4 Wiki (http://s4wiki.com/wiki/Tuning#Boost)

ME7.1 doesn't really have a "boost" table. It does everything based on "specified load".
Approximation

That isn't to say it's not possible to get a rough approximation of the boost you'll see based on your chosen LDRXN. // This is maximum specified load 

requested boost=10*(LDRXN)+300mbar

Where requested boost is in absolute pressure, and absolute pressure is the pressure of the air charge including barometric pressure.

EXAMPLE:

LDRXN=195
10*195=1950
1950+300=2250

Where 2250 is the absolute pressure in millibars.

To determine manifold pressure subtract the barometric pressure. Sea level = 1 Bar = 1000 mBar.

2250-1000 = 1250 mBar
1250 mBar = 1.25 Bar
1 Bar = 14.7 psi
1.25 Bar * 14.7 psi/Bar = 18.375 psi

Where 18.375 is psi in manifold pressure.

Keep in mind, this is a ROUGH approximation. It is dependent on a large number of factors including air density, temperature, elevation, and the alignment of the stars and the moon. Use the above formula to get close, then adjust based on real world observations.


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