# Removing AMU Engine From 2001 TTQC



## QuaTTro_225 (Mar 18, 2009)

Does anyone have a DIY or tips for removing an AMU engine from a TT? I already have the transmission out and im looking to do rods. Anyone local to Warren Ohio that may be able to stop by and lend a hand? I am more or less looking for a step by step to pulling the engine from the front of the car. ie. Removing the front end.Any help will be greatly appreciated.


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## QuaTTro_225 (Mar 18, 2009)

*Re: Removing AMU Engine From 2001 TTQC (QuaTTro_225)*

Bump.........


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## QuaTTro_225 (Mar 18, 2009)

*Re: Removing AMU Engine From 2001 TTQC (QuaTTro_225)*

Am i posting in the wrong forum or does no one know the process of doing this?


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## TToxic (Nov 15, 2008)

*Re: Removing AMU Engine From 2001 TTQC (QuaTTro_225)*

Why are you pulling engine to do rods? and is this why you pulled trans.? ^^Search^^^


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## QuaTTro_225 (Mar 18, 2009)

*Re: Removing AMU Engine From 2001 TTQC (TToxic)*

Searched and found nothing which is why i made this topic. I am going BT and the reason i pulled the tranny was to do a clutch and flywheel. Just looking for some tips on how to remove the front end. I cant believe how difficult it is to get help on vortex.


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## sims159915 (Jan 24, 2005)

*FV-QR*

here is the best advice you will get on here.....

go to amazon.com
buy a Bently Manual
You now have the answer to any and all questions.


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## Oh_My_VR6 (Sep 6, 2004)

*Re: Removing AMU Engine From 2001 TTQC (QuaTTro_225)*

No need to take the front end off...that's just creating extra work. Un-plug and label all of your wiring, unbolt downpipe at the turbo, then unbolt the passenger side mount. Let it down with a jack or pull it out of the top with a crane. It literally is that easy.


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## QuaTTro_225 (Mar 18, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (sims159915)*

The bentley manual does not state how to remove the engine. Thanx Anyway.


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## QuaTTro_225 (Mar 18, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (QuaTTro_225)*

Seems like every topic i start i have to beg for help..... I guess vortex is not the place to look. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


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## invncble (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (QuaTTro_225)*


_Quote, originally posted by *QuaTTro_225* »_Seems like every topic i start i have to beg for help..... I guess vortex is not the place to look. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 

Sorry no one had a quick answer on removing your engine.


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## Oh_My_VR6 (Sep 6, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (QuaTTro_225)*


_Quote, originally posted by *QuaTTro_225* »_Seems like every topic i start i have to beg for help..... I guess vortex is not the place to look. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 

I answered you completely. If you do not grasp the fundamentals from my statement, you have no business pulling an engine to begin with. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


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## QuaTTro_225 (Mar 18, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Oh_My_VR6)*

Number one....i have probably pulled and built more engines than you will ever will. and number two i asked for a step by step of removing the front end. It doesnt matter if YOU think its a waste of time, Thats not what i asked. If you dont have the answer dont post. Thanx. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 00_Bora (Oct 15, 2005)

*FV-QR*

if you have so much experience, than this question of yours really shouldnt even be an issue...
if your going to be that inconsiderate in a forum where not a lot of these cars exist anymore, let alone tuners owning them, then maybe you should buy a mk4 or a mk5 and hang out over there. your attitude would fit better in there.


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## QuaTTro_225 (Mar 18, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (00_Bora)*

For some reason I thought the forums were a place where people help other people out......Not down talk everyone looking for help.







Something i would have expected in the BMW forums. And experience has nothing to do with wanting to know the best route to go about removing the front end. Its obvious no one knows so just forget it. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## TToxic (Nov 15, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (QuaTTro_225)*

Front end are you talking suspension or front bumper body etc. With all the posts you could of had the engine out if you followed the posted imfo.above. If you drop the cross member you'll have to lift the body to get the engine & cross member out. your making more of a big deal than necessary, hook a chain and pull the fker!


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## 2001TTransport (Sep 18, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (TToxic)*

I pulled the front end off but didn't document it, in hind sight it was really straight forward with the help of my Bently. The one thing I would advise is that you should have the AC purged before you pull the front end


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## M this 1! (May 17, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (2001TTransport)*

One of your first posts is saying, "i can't believe how hard it is to get help on the vortex







"
this makes most not want to help and to call you on your sh!te. 
if you pull the front end to put a BT together, you then need to put it back on and see if your stuff fits. why not leave the front end, THEN do the fmic, ic piping so you are knowing it fits right then and there?
also,pulling the head is all you need to do to get the turbo off and then on again. and rods popped in there of course.


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## QuaTTro_225 (Mar 18, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (M this 1!)*

Basically this started off as just a clutch job. Then i realized if im going this far i might as well go bt since my turbo has got 130k on it. So as of right now the subframe is tied back, trans is out and i dont want to remove the hood to pull the motor. This is why i was asking about removing the front lock carrier. And as for rods, ive heard people say they leave the motor in the car? Can anyone shed some light on this?


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## erik5TT (Jul 14, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (QuaTTro_225)*

no light on this, but im not too far from you. giving you a http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif for doing the job. wish i had the money for a BT setup. ive always wanted more TT/audi owners around here to be able to get together. ill be checking back to see how its going.


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## jwalker1.8 (Mar 4, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (erik5TT)*

CAUTION 
Cylinder head removal should not be attempted unless the engine is cold. 
1.8L Engine
1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section. 
2. Remove or disconnect the following: 
* Front bumper 
3. Place the hood lock carrier into the service position. 
4. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 
5. Remove or disconnect the following: 
* Negative battery cable 
* Accessory drive belt 
* Cooling fan 
6. Drain the engine coolant. 
7. Remove or disconnect the following: 
* Intake manifold 
* Accessory drive belts 
* Wastegate bypass regulator valve 
* Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) canister purge regulator valve 
* Power outage stage 
* Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor 
* Air cleaner housing 
* Engine Temperature Control (ETC) and the temperature II sensor harness connector 
* All connections from the cylinder head 
* Crankcase breather line 
* Oil supply line at the cylinder head 
* Exhaust manifold heat shield 
* Turbocharger from the exhaust manifold 
* Coolant hose to the heat exchanger at the rear of the cylinder head 
* Upper timing belt cover 
8. Turn the crankshaft, in the direction of rotation (clockwise), until the No. 1 cylinder is at TDC. 
9. Using Torx® wrench T45, loosen the timing belt tensioner. 
10. Push down on the tensioner and remove the belt from the camshaft gear. 
11. Remove or disconnect the following: 
* Torx® bolt and swing the tensioner assembly bracket forward 
* Valve cover








* Cylinder head bolts, in sequence, as shown 
* Cylinder head 
12. Clean the gasket mating surfaces. 
13. Clean and dry out the cylinder head bolt holes. 
To install: 
NOTE: Always replace the cylinder head bolts, self-locking nuts, bolts, gaskets and O-rings. 
NOTE: Refer to Section 1 of this manual for the cylinder head torque sequence illustration. The illustration is located after the Torque Specification Chart. 

14. Before installing the cylinder head, set the crankshaft and camshaft to TDC for the No. 1 cylinder. 
15. Loosen the turbocharger support bracket to reduce the likelihood of any tension while installing the cylinder head. 
16. Install or connect the following: 
* Head gasket with the part number visible from the intake side 
* Cylinder head 
* New cylinder head bolts, tighten by hand 
17. Tighten the new cylinder head bolts in sequence in 2 steps: 
Step 1: 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm) 
Step 2: additional 1⁄2 (180 degree) turn 
NOTE: It is not necessary to retighten the cylinder head bolts. 
18. Install or connect the following: 
* Turbocharger to the exhaust manifold using new gaskets and the bolts coated with Hot Bolt Paste G 052 112 A3. Tighten the bolts to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm). 
* Turbo support bracket. Tighten the bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (40 Nm). 
* Valve cover 
* Timing belt 
* Accessory drive belts 
* Exhaust manifold heat shield 
* Oil supply lines to the cylinder head. Tighten the retaining straps to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm). 
* Crankcase breather 
* Any other items removed during disassembly 
* Coolant temperature sensors 
* Air cleaner housing 
19. Fill the engine with coolant and bleed, if necessary. 
20. Connect the negative battery cable. 
21. Fully close all power windows to stop, operate all window switches for at least 1 second in the close direction to activate the one touch opening/closing function. 
22. Check the oil level before starting the engine and top off, as necessary. 

After the head is removed, remove the oil pan...you will see the rod caps...all you need to do is loosen the rod bolts, tap the pistons/rods up and swap the rods out...rehone is not necessary, make sure all the pistons go back in EXACTLY how you took them out...new rod bearings will be necessary, if engine compression is fine, reusing the rings should be fine. You will need a complete head gasket kit as well.
Sounds like you should do more research first but this is a quick rundown of a rod swap...You will definitly need
Rods
Rod bolts
Rod bearings
Head gasket kit
Head bolts
coolant
oil
oil pan sealant
You do not need to remove the block to swap rods!
Also the above torque specs are for oem parts including head bolts.
Good luck...remember search is your friend...the 1.8t technical section has a wealth of knowledge.
Edit: you will also need this polydrive bit found on snap on / matco trucks or ordered online for the head bolts...best bet is to buy the head bolts and take one of them with you to a truck and make sure it's the right one...it will need to be a long one like pictured...the short ones will not work










_Modified by jwalker1.8 at 12:24 AM 12-17-2009_


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## TavoG (Dec 3, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*

That pretty much solves it, and if you have a lot of experience, you shuldnt have too much trouble doin it, its the same with all cars, problem solving and taking your time, Good luck http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## QuaTTro_225 (Mar 18, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*

That was some great info... kind of what i was looking for but being the motor has 130k on it i really think i should remove it and go over everything. Any opinions on that?


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## Murderface (Nov 13, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (QuaTTro_225)*

It depends on how you want to remove it. You can:
a. Drop it out the bottom (easiest, IMO, but usually requires a lift)
b. Pull it out the top (second easiest)
c. Pull it out the front (requires removing more stuff)
Honestly, if you've pulled many engines before like you say, the 1.8T is cake.
Basic steps you need for either method, these are just a rough guideline from what I've picked up:
1. Disconnect all the wiring you see attached - AIT, MAP, MAF, knock sensors, coilpacks, N249 and N110 (I think it's called), cam sensor, coolant sensors, VVT solenoid, A/C clutch engage, power steering pressure sensor, SAI, etc. Just look over the engine and gradually disconnect it all.
2. Disconnect the radiator hoses and A/C up front - might want to purge the R134 first or I just loosen a single A/C hose and put a towel around it to absorb it as it rushes out.
3. Disconnect power steering line from pump. Disconnect random little vac/coolant lines that go to various things in the bay (evap, coolant bottle etc).
4. Disconnect downpipe and intercoolers, remove crosspipe.
5. For method 'a', get transmission jack under engine, unbolt engine mount from engine bracket and dogbone mount, and drop engine.
For method 'b', remove hood, hook engine to engine hoist, unbolt engine mount and dogbone mount from frame/subframe and lift engine out.
For method 'c', remove front bumper, crash bar, radiator support assembly, undo all the wiring going to the radiator support assembly for the fans and such, then follow method 'b' guidelines.
Good luck


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## QuaTTro_225 (Mar 18, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Murderface)*

Thanx this is a def help. I'm used to pulling 5.0L's out of Mustangs........which can be done in an hours time.....lol. Once I start the project I will post a build thread. Thanx for all your help guys http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## QuaTTro_225 (Mar 18, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (QuaTTro_225)*

Well just an update. Motor is out and you guys were right, this was actually the easiest ever. 2hrs and 15min to pull the front end and get the motor on the stand. It now sits a bare block waiting to go to machine shop.
I can't believe how good the crank looked witrh 130k. Even the cylinder walls still had crosshatching in them. Thanks again for all the ones that helped http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (QuaTTro_225)*

I hope it only takes 2h15m to get my motor out! If I can accomplish that I'll count that as a win, regardless of what else happens


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## QuaTTro_225 (Mar 18, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (l88m22vette)*

I would say the best way to do it is to pull the front end. That's how I did it. Just purge the a/c and disconnect all hoses and wires. Once you get the front end off you have alot more access to the wiring on the engine. Very easy. If you ever have any ? On anything shoot me a pm and I'll give you my number. I know how hard it is to find info on the amu engine. Keep me posted. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## storx (Dec 6, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (QuaTTro_225)*


_Quote, originally posted by *QuaTTro_225* »_Number one....i have probably pulled and built more engines than you will ever will. and number two i asked for a step by step of removing the front end. It doesnt matter if YOU think its a waste of time, Thats not what i asked. If you dont have the answer dont post. Thanx. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

welcome to my world.. man.. i find it hard for me to come to the site these days.. cause the minute you say something that anyone has an assumption different.. you get a million complaints and know it all answers.. not saying all people are wrong.. but this forum has gone down hill.. alot these years..


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## eddiek (Mar 9, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (jwalker1.8)*

Can we add jwalkers1.8 reply to the FAQ's. His post is some serous helpful information. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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