# Photos from the Phaeton project



## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

I couldn't wait for tomorrow, I'll add more pictures to this thread

















- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

P-badge was made by cold Smith. it is genuine silver.


- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

*Steering Wheel Heater Installation.*

Hi,

Heated Steering Wheel Installation Steps (my way). Heating time set to 3 minutes. The delay time relay can be used to change the heating time.


























































- Juha


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

*Heated windscreen installation*

Hi,

Here are pictures of the installation of the heated windscreen. Previously, the car had no heated windshield. heating starts at the touch of a button. The heating time can be adjusted with a delay relay. Power 1000 watts. 1 times pressing for 1 minute.


























- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

*Diffuser installation*

Hi,

The diffuser is modified to fit the car. It was a time consuming job. Note that there is no chromium in the bumper.
More modifield parts for the car body are coming.


















- Jussi


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## robbie-rocket-pants (Mar 25, 2012)

Cool 🙂


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

More to come soon:wave:

- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

*Engine splash shields full rebuilt.*

All air ducts made by myself, as well as sound insulation. Material polycarbonate and foam rubber foam mat.










































- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

*Miscellaneous pictures.*

Here are some miscellaneous pictures.



























































- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

*Replacing the generator with a new one.*

Replacing the generator with a new one.
It was an extremely difficult and time consuming job.
I wouldn't have thought it would work without the engine being removed. But here in the forum there was a thread with pictures and a description of how to do it "mission impossible". I couldn't give up for that.
At the same time I replaced the water pump, the belt tensioner, the belt rollers and long belt.










































- Jussi


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## Ceylon (May 15, 2019)

Good to see someone else getting creative with a Phaeton . Bodywork looks in good shape, do you do all the bodywork yourself?

Some interesting solutions rather than going the OEM route. Any reason you didn't choose to use the oem hardware for the heated wheel and front window? All the bits are readily available on eBay, but maybe you like the challenge and don't like doing things the easy way .


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

thanks for asking

Yes I do all the bodywork myself and much more too.The smaller parts are painted by myself, but the larger surfaces are taken care of by the Auto Painting Company. I am an electrical engineer, so it also help me a many of issues with car repairing.
First I think to use going the OEM route. But, I came to other ideas and did the installation in my own way.
I wanted to be able to decide for myself when the steering wheel and windscreen heating is on. The car's own control units switch and regulate the heating according to a complex method.
Now heaters are under my control and they work fine. In particular, windshield heating is more efficient than the original. Otherwise, have purchased the necessary parts for OEM installation.
If anyone needs them, I can sell them. A heated steering wheel and a windscreen, of course, are needed in addition to these.



















- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

*Pictures of car body etc.*

Here are some pictures from outside the car. Notice that body side trim molding are missing.











































































- Jussi


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## robbie-rocket-pants (Mar 25, 2012)

Really nice. You are very talented


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Big thanks

Much remains to be done.

- Jussi


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## Ceylon (May 15, 2019)

Jussi12 said:


> thanks for asking
> 
> Yes I do all the bodywork myself and much more too.The smaller parts are painted by myself, but the larger surfaces are taken care of by the Auto Painting Company. I am an electrical engineer, so it also help me a many of issues with car repairing.
> First I think to use going the OEM route. But, I came to other ideas and did the installation in my own way.
> ...


I installed a heated wheel on mine the oem way as mine was missing that option. It's quite cool as you can set your preferred target temp and the wheel will get there when switched on, works really well and is adjustable regardless of the starting temp, cant overheat etc. I understand the front window though, handy to have more control over that. Haven't had a chance to use the heated front window on mine yet though as it has been too mild!


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

On the front I like the black bumper rub strip blacked out.

On the sides- I think the removal is asking for expensive dents in the near future.

On the rear- the black strip strip makes an already large butt look like a BBW.


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Hi,

The heating time of the steering wheel and windscreen can be adjusted steplessly. It will then turn off automatically. If you need to heat more, just press a button. overheating will not occur if you do not intentionally press the heaters on continuously. No problems were not revealed, although I have used both of them often.
The OEM system heats the windshield at 25% to 100% power depending on the outside temperature, etc. The heating time also varies between 2-6 minutes.
I have the windshield warm at 100% power for 1 minute. That's usually enough. If not enough. I press the button for another 1 minute period.
But yes, the OEM system probably works just fine 

- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

PowerDubs said:


> On the front I like the black bumper rub strip blacked out.
> On the sides- I think the removal is asking for expensive dents in the near future.
> On the rear- the black strip strip makes an already large butt look like a BBW.



Hi,

Thanks for the opinion
All car chrome trim has been removed or painted.front-/rear bumper and sides.
On the sides, Ithink they look good. When you look at newer cars you will notice that there are no side molding trims.
They are also not present in the other Range Rover and Porsche in my car, although they are not very new.
On the rear, the photo is taken from below so that it becomes that impression you see. Here is better pic.
At first I didn’t bother to put it on the forum because the car is so dirty











- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Ceylon said:


> I installed a heated wheel on mine the oem way as mine was missing that option. It's quite cool as you can set your preferred target temp and the wheel will get there when switched on, works really well and is adjustable regardless of the starting temp, cant overheat etc. I understand the front window though, handy to have more control over that. Haven't had a chance to use the heated front window on mine yet though as it has been too mild!


Hi,

I forget reply with quote, but it is now below:wave:

- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

*Cromed gear selector and knobs*

New gear selector and knobs.

I thought the gear selector would be easy to change. It was not compatible. But I finally got it in place.
I painted all the knobs myself, but I was not happy with them. There are now 2 new ones near the gear selector. The picture shows 3 more knobs I designed myself. I also change them to chrome ones.
Maybe I’ll also cover some of the wood surfaces. I don't know yet how and with what











- Jussi


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

What did you have to do to get the gear selector to fit? I have seen that on eBay overseas and thought it looked nice and more modern.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

PowerDubs said:


> What did you have to do to get the gear selector to fit? I have seen that on eBay overseas and thought it looked nice and more modern.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



It is a bit complicated to explain. but I promise to try as soon as I have time. I wonder if anyone else has done the same job. It would be nice to hear how he made it work

- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

PowerDubs said:


> What did you have to do to get the gear selector to fit? I have seen that on eBay overseas and thought it looked nice and more modern.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Well, I'll try to tell you how the new gear selector was installed. Remove the old gear selector. That is, the wooden cover plate is removed. Pull out the U-shaped locking pin.
Now the old gear selector can be removed by pulling it hard upwards.
Now all parts of the new gear selector must be removed separately. Be careful when doing this.
Remove the chromed foot and its inner tube will appear. It is glued, remove the glue first and remove it. Remove the remaining chrome parts, including the knobs on both ends and 2 leather parts. 
Pull out the U-shaped locking pin. The push button itself comes out by pulling.Pull it out completely.
There’s a small spring that needs to be reinstalled later (it’s a little tricky). Only the top leather remains in the top of the gear selector.
In the new gearbox, the chrome foot tube is far too short. If you can get it extended in some way, then that would be good. 1-2 cm.
Yes, the gear selector works even if you don't do this. First insert black inner tube to new chromed foot.
Then insert a new cromed foot into the gear selector's rod. Then press the new gear knob firmly onto the selector rod. All removed parts are not yet installed.
Make a tool with a sharp tip. for example, a large iron nail. It should withstand a bit of twisting. Bend a small hook at its sharped end.
Now look through the gear selector. You will see a white plastic bar with a hole. The gear selector has a small metal rod. Its purpose is to lift the white plastic releases you see.
its small metal pin should go into the hole in the white plastic bar. It doesn’t want to go into that hole easily. Now you need the tool you made.
Lift the white pin with the hook tool and twist so that you can press its metal pin into the hole in the white rod. The metal pin is hinged.
The hardest is done. Now you just put all the parts in place. Remember that little spring. How to reinstall it is really hard to explain.
Its purpose is to pull the push button lightly inwards. I think it gets in place when you think about how it should be.
Cam pliers, a small screwdriver and nimble fingers are needed to install the spring. The U-shaped pin doesn’t hit the right spot, but the gear selector is so tight anyway that it’s not needed.
That's how I did it. If some can do it more easily, then they can tell how to do it

- Jussi


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

Ok- so if I am understanding you correctly- the knob itself fits with no modifications, the chome tube on the bottom is just a bit short, and the staple pin is left out.

Other than that- you just took it apart to get it on...well, even the stock lever is no fun to reinstall.


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

PowerDubs said:


> Ok- so if I am understanding you correctly- the knob itself fits with no modifications, the chome tube on the bottom is just a bit short, and the staple pin is left out.
> 
> Other than that- you just took it apart to get it on...well, even the stock lever is no fun to reinstall.


You can simplify it that way. But it will not work if you try to install it in the same way as the original.
Finding out how to do it went all day. Now that it is known, it may seem easy.
The new knob is not made to fit the old one, but it still fits. You can try how easy it is.

- Jussi


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

PowerDubs said:


> Ok- so if I am understanding you correctly- the knob itself fits with no modifications, the chome tube on the bottom is just a bit short, and the staple pin is left out.
> 
> Other than that- you just took it apart to get it on...well, even the stock lever is no fun to reinstall.


The Touareg knob is the same way. The chrome trim on the bottom is too short. The knob itself is the same. 

I suspect if you bought a brand new new style knob and the correct chrome trim, it would fit just like the original. 

As you noted, they are not fun to install anyway. 

Some part numbers changed but the 5 speed selector mechanism had the same part number (3D0713023Q) from 2002 to at least 2013

https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/phaeton/phae/2002-258/7/713-713015/#9

https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/phaeton/phae/2016-710/7/713-713015/#9

3D0713023Q is the correct part number for the shift lever (AKA selector mechanism) for the North American Phaeton W12

https://parts.vw.com/p/48259598/3D0713023Q.html


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> The Touareg knob is the same way. The chrome trim on the bottom is too short. The knob itself is the same.
> 
> I suspect if you bought a brand new new style knob and the correct chrome trim, it would fit just like the original.
> 
> ...


Old part number: 3D2713141A. New part number: 3D1713140BDLT. Looks like the pictures are similar ???
These are different on the outside and inside. 2002 ja 2016 
Sleeve: Part number 3D0713169 and 3D0713169 2ZZ. Same part number as 2002 and 2016. However, the parts are not the same. And are not compatible.

- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Jussi12 said:


> Old part number: 3D2713141A. New part number: 3D1713140BDLT. Looks like the pictures are similar ???
> These are different on the outside and inside. 2002 ja 2016
> Sleeve: Part number 3D0713169 and 3D0713169 2ZZ. Same part number as 2002 and 2016. However, the parts are not the same. And are not compatible.
> 
> - Jussi


3D2713141A is RHD. I meant 3D1713141A which is LHD.


-Jussi


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

Jussi12 said:


> Here are some pictures from outside the car. Notice that body side trim molding are missing.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for sharing your mods and all the photos. I think the silver rearview mirror covers look very stylish especially with dark exterior colors, it's like the Audi S models. I might have to try this with my blue W12.

Btw, one of mine also has the leaking alternator cooling line o-ring. I'll have to address that very soon, thanks to Lennart's description it seems somewhat straight forward.


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

Jussi12 said:


> Replacing the generator with a new one.
> It was an extremely difficult and time consuming job.
> I wouldn't have thought it would work without the engine being removed. But here in the forum there was a thread with pictures and a description of how to do it "mission impossible". I couldn't give up for that.
> At the same time I replaced the water pump, the belt tensioner, the belt rollers and long belt.
> ...


I notice a piece of the alternator housing broke off at one of the cooling line connections. Did that happen during removal? I want to make sure I don't damage mine during the O-ring replacement.


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Phaetonlvr said:


> Thanks for sharing your mods and all the photos. I think the silver rearview mirror covers look very stylish especially with dark exterior colors, it's like the Audi S models. I might have to try this with my blue W12.
> 
> Btw, one of mine also has the leaking alternator cooling line o-ring. I'll have to address that very soon, thanks to Lennart's description it seems somewhat straight forward.


Thanks for the opinion
If you are painting them, get a special color that looks like aluminum. Ordinary silver paint does not look like real aluminum.
I was wondering if the exhaust muffler is the same as the W12 model. I have a little damage in it. and it makes a slightly strange sound. If you have them stored, would it be an impossible idea to buy them.

- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Phaetonlvr said:


> I notice a piece of the alternator housing broke off at one of the cooling line connections. Did that happen during removal? I want to make sure I don't damage mine during the O-ring replacement.


Hi,

Yes, I got it broken when I removed the alternator.

- Jussi


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

Jussi12 said:


> I was wondering if the exhaust muffler is the same as the W12 model. I have a little damage in it. and it makes a slightly strange sound. If you have them stored, would it be an impossible idea to buy them.


I'm not sure the V8 version is the same as the W12. I know the cross-over downstream of the polishing catalytic converters has a build-in muffler on the W12 versus the V8 which just is a cross-over (that's the reason for the W12 being quieter). Not sure if the silencers at the very back are different.

Anyway, since you are in Finland it will be a lot cheaper shipping-wise to get that part from Germany or Poland. Better used Phaeton parts availability there also.


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Phaetonlvr said:


> I'm not sure the V8 version is the same as the W12. I know the cross-over downstream of the polishing catalytic converters has a build-in muffler on the W12 versus the V8 which just is a cross-over (that's the reason for the W12 being quieter). Not sure if the silencers at the very back are different.
> 
> Anyway, since you are in Finland it will be a lot cheaper shipping-wise to get that part from Germany or Poland. Better used Phaeton parts availability there also.


Hi,
Yes you are right. It is easier to buy parts from Europe. Shipping costs etc are cheaper.
Btw, does anyone know are there any mufflers available for the W12, so you would get a little power to feel the exhaust sounds.

- Jussi


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

I haven’t tried to install them yet- but I’m pretty sure they will swap right on, just need a reducer.












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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Are those Bentley mufflers, Josh?


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

Yea.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

PowerDubs said:


> Yea.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Cool!

I have been meaning to disconnect my rear mufflers to see what it sounds like. 

-Eric


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

PowerDubs said:


> I haven’t tried to install them yet- but I’m pretty sure they will swap right on, just need a reducer.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Hi,

Interesting. Do they have a part number? Do you think they are suitable for W12? I could use a part number to search for ones for sale on ebay. Is the sound more powerful?

- Jussi


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Johnny installed Bentley exhausts on his old car, I think there's a thread on it somewhere. He posted a few days ago that he's not going to do the same mod to his new car because the old one was too loud, so they definitely do sound different.


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

invisiblewave said:


> Johnny installed Bentley exhausts on his old car, I think there's a thread on it somewhere. He posted a few days ago that he's not going to do the same mod to his new car because the old one was too loud, so they definitely do sound different.





By default the flapper valves are open until pulled shut by engine vacuum which the Phaeton isn't set up for. Would be easy enough to do, but...

So unless he secured the valves in the closed position on each side, yes I would imagine it would be very loud.

Closed- I would expect a modest increase in volume, and yes they should breathe better even when closed. Look up in at the real tail pipes on the W12 and you will see little slits...


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

PowerDubs said:


> By default the flapper valves are open until pulled shut by engine vacuum which the Phaeton isn't set up for. Would be easy enough to do, but...
> 
> So unless he secured the valves in the closed position on each side, yes I would imagine it would be very loud.
> 
> Closed- I would expect a modest increase in volume, and yes they should breathe better even when closed. Look up in at the real tail pipes on the W12 and you will see little slits...


Ok, so the flap valves are controlled by vacuum? If the flaps close when you start the car’s engine, are they somehow openable in the Bentley. If the mufflers are as described above, it cannot be difficult to build a vacuum control in the Phaeton as well.

- Jussi


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

They are spring tension always open with a vacuum actuator on each which can close them.

This style of exhaust flap is used on many many modern cars, even beyond the VW, Audi, Bentley, Porsche, Lambo, Bugatti, etc that all have them.

On my VW Mk4 Golf R32 the ecu was programmed to keep the flap shut until past a certain rpm and throttle position (sporty driving = sporty exhaust note).

When you started the car the exhaust would be loud for a couple seconds until the engine created vacuum and sucked the valve shut.

Guys would pinch the vacuum line at the valve on the muffler and put a zip tie around it, or pull it off and put a golf tee into it- either way would keep the exhaust loud all the time.

Other guys found which wire under the dash went to the vacuum solenoid under the hood and put a 3 way switch on it- this allowed normal operation, always quiet operation, and always loud operation.

Modern cars typically have options in the dash interface to do this already, or open the exhaust when you switch to sport mode, etc.

The Phaeton doesn't have an existing vacuum solenoid for the exhaust, nor any existing program in the ecu that I am aware of (might be there and just not used). But either would be easy enough to add.

Until I put the mufflers on, I can't tell you if I would ever want to run them in full open anyway. 

I would probably wire them shut and leave it at that. They will still give an increase in sound and flow over stock. Hopefully without being obnoxious.

I had the magnaflow exhaust on my old V8 Phaeton and enjoyed that. The W12 engine should sound wonderful, as VR6 always do.


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## NiQ_O (Apr 2, 2019)

great work.. where is the key from  small things and all that..lol


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

PowerDubs said:


> They are spring tension always open with a vacuum actuator on each which can close them.
> 
> This style of exhaust flap is used on many many modern cars, even beyond the VW, Audi, Bentley, Porsche, Lambo, Bugatti, etc that all have them.
> 
> ...


Thanks for advising

I just ordered Bentley's mufflers. Now just waiting for mufflers arrival. I try to make it through the controls that I can get them off and on when I want to.

- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

NiQ_O said:


> great work.. where is the key from  small things and all that..lol



Thanks for the opinion

The picture shows Bentley remote control. The original badge is removed. it has been replaced by a new one P-badge.
P-badge is handmade and cast fo silver.


- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

PowerDubs said:


> Ok- so if I am understanding you correctly- the knob itself fits with no modifications, the chome tube on the bottom is just a bit short, and the staple pin is left out.
> 
> Other than that- you just took it apart to get it on...well, even the stock lever is no fun to reinstall.


Well, time was spent researching how the exchange would work, or whether it would work at all.
Everything, including the internal parts, had to be disassembled from the new gear stick. Now that I know how it happens, things would go faster.

- Jussi


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Jussi12 said:


> Well, time was spent researching how the exchange would work, or whether it would work at all.
> Everything, including the internal parts, had to be disassembled from the new gear stick. Now that I know how it happens, things would go faster.
> 
> - Jussi


Did you buy a brand new knob or a used knob? 

-Eric


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> Did you buy a brand new knob or a used knob?
> 
> -Eric


I buy new knob. You can't find secondhand anywhere. It's from the latest Phaeton
model year that was made.

- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

I finally got it done 

New attempt and failure through victory. More than 100 hours of work. Zap installed in place.
The coating of the frame has yet to be chosen. I also coat other wood surfaces.


























































- Jussi


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

There is Individual package piano black wood pieces on Ebay that would work well with that bottom choice. Save you from having to wrap or paint.


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Black piano wood is definitely fine. I have to look at what I can find on ebay. Parts can be expensive when all wood parts need to be replaced. The first picture is real. The other is done with Photoshop. Vinyl wrapping is easy to make. I have previously made the whole car interior with vinyl wrap. Painting is not an option. I thought of using black brushed aluminum and light brushed aluminum to coat the wood parts. They look very authentic.

- Jussi


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4x-BLENDE-...K-VW-PHAETON-3D-FACELIFT-Bj-2010/273818756687


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

PowerDubs said:


> https://www.ebay.com/itm/4x-BLENDE-...K-VW-PHAETON-3D-FACELIFT-Bj-2010/273818756687


Ok, thanks Josh 
I didn't find it myself. But there are only door molding trims. There are quite a lot of wooden parts. I think I'll try vinyl wraps first.

- Jussi


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

That is only one link. There are a lot of other piano parts. Shoot the seller an email and ask to buy them all at the same time.

I did that when I ordered all the wood from Germany off Ebay to swap my euk over to walnut.


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Thanks for the advice Josh 
I can contact the sellers. Maybe I'll find all the pieces.
Is there any idea if the Bentley Flying Spur 2014-2019 seats wiring diagram could be obtained from somewhere?

- Jussi


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

Not that I am aware of. Bentley (and other high end cars) like to keep info to themselves...as if most of the buyers would work on their cars anyway.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

I think it's more a matter of supply and demand. 

Chilton and Hayne's aren't going to print a manual for the 100 non-mechanics worldwide who might want wiring diagrams. 

You could try Erwin:

https://erwinusa.bentleymotors.com/erwin/showHome.do

https://erwinusa.bentleymotors.com/erwin/showArticleProperties.do?articleId=172759

There are also tons of online results but I don't know how safe they are.

These guys don't have the Flying Spur but do have an updated Phaeton manual. As with the others out there, I have no idea if they are legitimate and it it's safe to download from them. 

Here's the VW manual package:

https://www.emanualonline.com/Specials/The-Ultimate-VAG-Package.html

Or just the Phaeton:

https://www.emanualonline.com/Cars/...aeton-Workshop-Repair-And-Service-Manual.html


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## gwiken65 (Jul 8, 2016)

Hi Jussi.
I must say you are remarkable. The work you done and do on your P is really fantastic. 
Very impressive. It looks good and with high quality, you are very talented. 

I have been wanting to add video to the ZAP for a couple of years now on my P, and you are an inspiration. 

Seeing your pictures makes me want to drive my P down to my workshop and rip it apart, right away.

Wiken 

Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

gwiken65 said:


> Hi Jussi.
> I must say you are remarkable. The work you done and do on your P is really fantastic.
> Very impressive. It looks good and with high quality, you are very talented.
> 
> ...


Thank you very much for appreciating my work. I'm glad for that.
Now I have a mission impossible. I’m building from one of the Bentley seat and one of the Phaeton seat one newone that fit in the Phaeton. 
The seats for the new Bentley Flying Spur was so different, it in no way fit my car. It is such a difficult project now that I do not know if it is possible.
I have posted two pic to VWworteks. They are in another tread. I'll post more pictures later. I have to say that Phaeton's seat is better built.
They are also harder to disassemble. And while they're almost from the new Bentley Flying Spur, Phaeton sests are little more comfortable.
But Bentley seats looks wonderful.

- Jussi


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## Samhain35 (Oct 15, 2008)

Jussi12 said:


> Thank you very much for appreciating my work. I'm glad for that.
> Now I have a mission impossible. I’m building from one of the Bentley seat and one of the Phaeton seat one newone that fit in the Phaeton.
> The seats for the new Bentley Flying Spur was so different, it in no way fit my car. It is such a difficult project now that I do not know if it is possible.
> I have posted two pic to VWworteks. They are in another tread. I'll post more pictures later. I have to say that Phaeton's seat is better built.
> ...



Bentley ZAB unit? Is there any functional difference? FWIW the stereo in my Phaeton is FAR superior to the one in my Bentley, for whatever reason.

Jussi I could swear I saw your name over there before but if you haven't been there, the Bentley forum is pretty active and helpful and may be able to give you additional Bentley info:

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/bentley-42/


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Samhain35 said:


> Bentley ZAB unit? Is there any functional difference? FWIW the stereo in my Phaeton is FAR superior to the one in my Bentley, for whatever reason.
> 
> Jussi I could swear I saw your name over there before but if you haven't been there, the Bentley forum is pretty active and helpful and may be able to give you additional Bentley info:
> 
> https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/bentley-42/


I have been able to visit Bentley forum. It may have taken a long time. I can't remember. I should visit there too.
I haven’t listened to Bentley’s audio system, but in Phaeton it’s extremely good.
I think it’s sometimes chosen as the world’s best car as standard. The previous best was in Lexus.
It was made by Mark Levison. Mark Levison is not recognized by many, but it is a U.S. manufacturer of High End audio equipment.
The equipment is highly valued and expensive.
Bentley and Phaeton ZAP is almost the same. Buttons are different order and something little different.
However, they are not compatible with each other.
I have made almost all of that ZAP's front panel completely myself. 
You can find the pictures and story in the other thread I started on the Phaeton forum.

About the Bentley seat to Phaeton with pictures continues with the other thread "VOL 2"

- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Greeting 
I took this thread up if anyone is interested in this project and hasn’t seen the pictures.

- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

The seat project for a short break 
I did a little wrapping with new 3M wrap film series 2080. Black brushed aluminium and light brushed aluminium. I do all wood panel with these colours. Not everyone probably agrees with me that it’s a good idea to cover wooden surfaces.
However, I will do it because my car will look like newer now. I also think it’s stylish.



















- Jussi


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## gwiken65 (Jul 8, 2016)

@Jussi12 it's not bad, only different. It's a cool look.
Wiken

Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

From what I can see, I like that black metal edged wrap.

I probably would have done the cupholders block myself so they did not stand out. Or maybe just silver around the rim.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

PowerDubs said:


> From what I can see, I like that black metal edged wrap.
> 
> I probably would have done the cupholders block myself so they did not stand out. Or maybe just silver around the rim.
> 
> ...



The picture shows poorly that light brushed aluminum.
In nature, it looks better. I also have chrome rings.
I might replace them, They may be more stylish than those aluminum ones.
You will get a better result until all the parts are done with those colors.

- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

PowerDubs said:


> From what I can see, I like that black metal edged wrap.
> 
> I probably would have done the cupholders block myself so they did not stand out. Or maybe just silver around the rim.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tip 

Maybe I’ll change the color of the cup holder to black and only rings light aluminium.

It is easy job-

- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

PowerDubs said:


> From what I can see, I like that black metal edged wrap.
> 
> I probably would have done the cupholders block myself so they did not stand out. Or maybe just silver around the rim.
> 
> ...



You are right 

This look better.










- Jussi


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## gwiken65 (Jul 8, 2016)

Jussi12 said:


> You are right
> 
> This look better.
> 
> ...




Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

Yea- that looks great.

Is it hard to do?


I have soooo much stuff around the house I can think of to wrap.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

I wonder if gloss clear wrap would cover and conceal cracks in the wood.


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

PowerDubs said:


> Yea- that looks great.
> 
> Is it hard to do?
> 
> ...


3 M wrap film serie 2080 or 1080 it is easier 
I've done wrapping with other wrap and it is more difficult.


- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> I wonder if gloss clear wrap would cover and conceal cracks in the wood.


Cover slightly but do not completely disappear from view.

- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

While waiting for the seat control unit, I did something else 
I broke the level selector lift lever. I am going to work miracles and fix it. The cup holder were slow and didn't want to get up all the way.
No lubrication will help. I changed the sticky grease to a different one (to cupholder brake) and now the cup holder works quickly.
But that broken lifting lever is annoying.


























































- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Gear selector almost repair 

I made a part that can be installed in the gear selector I broke.
Drill machine and Dremel was used and I got plastic piece to round.
I made it from polycarbonate because it is a very strong plastic and also withstands bending.
I still have to drill a hole and threads in the lift lever. Then I only turn part of it into it.




















- Jussi


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## gwiken65 (Jul 8, 2016)

Jussi12 said:


> Gear selector almost repair
> 
> I made a part that can be installed in the gear selector I broke.
> Drill machine and Dremel was used and I got plastic piece to round.
> ...


Well done Jussi.
You have skills man.
Wiken 

Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

It will take a moment before everything is perfect 

I get all the time new ideas about what I could do for the car.
The exterior, interior and the engine.
I will publish information about the changes to the forum when I get something done.

- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Hi 
Now that the driver's seat is ready. I have started the second Bentley Flying Spur gen2 -seat construction.
Phaeton's seat has now been dismantled. The picture shows the parts that can and have to be installed on the Spur seats.
In addition to these, more electric motors and wiring are needed and of course the Spur seat. The second pic shows the remains of Phaeton's seat.
I will not add any more pictures as the pictures and stories related to the construction of the seats have already been presented in the forum.
When both seat are installed to the car, I could add the pic to forum. Hard job is still to do.


















- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

*I'm back*

Hi everyone on this forum 
I'm still alive, and I have not received Korona infection. However, I have not been lazy. I have built my car the other Range Rover. But I don’t send stories about it because they don't belong on this forum.
My Phaeton has been a car upholsterer for about 3 months. So I couldn't do anything about it. I should get it from there in 2 weeks. I sent pictures when I get the car back from the upholstery workshop.
I took the car's rims to the powder paint shop. They become black. Well, I have painted wheel center caps :laugh:











- Jussi


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## gwiken65 (Jul 8, 2016)

Jussi12 said:


> Hi everyone on this forum
> I'm still alive, and I have not received Korona infection. However, I have not been lazy. I have built my car the other Range Rover. But I don’t send stories about it because they don't belong on this forum.
> My Phaeton has been a car upholsterer for about 3 months. So I couldn't do anything about it. I should get it from there in 2 weeks. I sent pictures when I get the car back from the upholstery workshop.
> I took the car's rims to the powder paint shop. They become black. Well, I have painted wheel center caps
> ...


Nice Jussi.
I'm trying to get the wheel bearing out of my P, it's stuck as .
Nice that your project is moving forward. 
Wiken 

Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

After all, this forum has been nicely renewed. Now you can get the pictures directly to the forum. Great! Here’s one more picture of Phaeton and Bentley’s headrests dismantled. Merry Christmas time to everyone once again!


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Hi,

Now that I got my car back from the upholstery, I continue to fixing my Phaeton. The story go on (with new pics of the car)

- Jussi​


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Hi,

I'm now trying to modify P's front grille. Let's see if I succeed so well that I no need to be ashamed to install it in place.










- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Hi,
I don’t even dare tell you how long I spent time with this Grille. Now, however, it is ready to be installed. Only Badges are missing.




























- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Hi,


Jussi12 said:


> Hi,
> I don’t even dare tell you how long I spent time with this Grille. Now, however, it is ready to be installed. Only Badges are missing.
> 
> View attachment 69229
> ...


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Hi,
W​hy have some of my pictures on this forum been lost? Can anyone say a reason?
Somehow this forum looks weird on my pc.​
- Jussi​​


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## robbie-rocket-pants (Mar 25, 2012)

Jussi12 said:


> Hi,
> 
> W
> 
> ...


Yes, I no longer see the bit where your car was in an accident.


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

robbie-rocket-pants said:


> Yes, I no longer see the bit where your car was in an accident.


I think that everything is now ok. You can see an accident pictures in the topic "Photos from Phaeton Project VOL2."

- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Here are a few pictures of the front grilles stages and update headlights.

















- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Hey everyone! Could anyone help with this problem 
I'm still looking for 2 parts/gasket. Cylinder gasket (cylinders 7-12) and the upper oil pan gasket. I have a contingency plan if I can't find them. I can replace the upper oil sump seal with silicone-based sealant, as in later W12 engines. I also have a later models cylinder head gasket. I have to make a few missing holes in it, becouse they are missing. I would rather use exactly the suitable gaskets if I could find them somewhere. The engine is W12 BAN.
Would anyone have any information where I could get the following gaskets?
1. 07C103149K or ELRING 744.273 or WILMIG GROUP, WG1194715
2. O7C103609K
- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Here is one picture of the modified headlights and some info.









- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Here, too, I may have chosen the wrong color. Colors around the shift lever, the shade is ok. 
But the color of the back of the center console should probably turn black. I'm not sure yet.


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Hi, here's a little thing about the catalyst.​Catalyst cleaning. The cleaning is now done. It was easy to do, because they were now disconnected. They were initially washed with an ultrasonic cleaner and then cleanin with a DPF / Catalyst cleaning device. In most cases, such a measure is not helpful for petrol engine catalysts. The cleaning is mainly intended for the DPF of diesel engines. Let's go back to the petrol engines.
The petrol engine exhaust emissions can be sufficiently clean in the measurements at the end of the exhaust pipe, but the car's own diagnostics can still turn on the fault light. If the catalyst is not working properly, the reason is most often that the precious metal has "worn" off over time. If the fault light illuminate, in most cases, this can be fixed. Install an adapter between the catalyst and its rear lambda sensor. It will probably turn off the fault light. The exhaust gas flow rate to the rear lambda sensor slows down and the lambda measured value is equalized and the fault light no longer comes on. The rearmost lambda only monitors emissions. It does not affect the operation of the engine. The function of the front lambda is to provide information to the engine ECM so that it can adjust the amount of fuel and air correctly. Such an adapter cannot be installed in the front lambda! The catalyst cleaning was done at the car repair shop Pamex, which is the only place where these can done in our town I live. https://www.pamex.fi​





- Jussi​​​


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

The W12 exhaust kits are very cramped. It is surprising that the stock engine has a power of up to 450 hp. However, the exhaust manifolds can be improved. None of them be now great, but better. I don’t think the intake side is so big broblem to increasing power as the exhaust manifolds. The 3 exhaust ports in all 4 exhaust manifolds have now been enlarged to the same size as the exhaust ports on the cylinder head. Also the point where the exhaust gases of the 3 cylinders are combined in one pipe has also been widened. The size of the exhaust ports has increased considerably.The entire exhaust system will also be rebuilt. I also use Bentley's muflers with vacum powered flaps. The engine ECMs must be reprogrammed. How much power increases is shown in the dyno. Of course, since the engine is N/A, we can't get so much more power than turbocharged engines could give. Many N/A 2.0-liter engines have an additional 15 hp by simply programming the engine's ECM. However, the engine is W12 6.0, so an increase of 50 hp should be possible without any changes other than reprogramming the engine ECM. Well, this is just an estimate. Now that the exhaust side of the engine has been improved and with a little air intake improved, I could expect more. Finally when we drive car to the dyno, Let's can see how much hp we can get.








- Jussi


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## Melvivio (Feb 12, 2017)

When it comes to manifolds and their influence on performance, it was tested by Motortrends Enginemasters that size and porting of the exhaust manifold did not make that much of a difference. Even with one of the four (V8 5.7L) tubes nearly smashed closed, it still performed great. Runner length and matching does help. Main restriction on performance was muffler design. A straight through muffler with a 2.5"pipe had better flow than a 3" system with normal muffler. 

Bentley with their turbo motors have a lot more volume to be exhausted, so their design is bigger. Still, will be great to see the results on this Phaeton! Nice job!


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

I was waiting for someone to comment on the modification of the exhaust manifold I made. All comments are welcome. Indeed, it is not that simple. The end result depends on many things. Improperly dimensioned exhaust pipe or exhaust manifold can have a power-limiting effect. Power may decrease even if the size of the exhaust piping is increased. So bigger is not always better. But in some cases, as far as I know, it is the modification in the exhaust manifolds that has increased the power quite a lot. The story would be so long that I won’t go into it in more detail. If we focus only on this W12 engine, then I think Phaeton's W12 have particularly cramped exhaust manifold. The pipes coming out of the cylinder head should be the same length to the point where they connect to each other. However, that is not possible with these exhaust manifolds. In this case, however, I believe I will improve the exhaust flow. Likewise, I think we will see little more power. Let's see am I right.
- Jussi


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Jussi,

I liked your mods but they look labor intensive and probably engine out intensive.

Port matching should help performance but you'd have to run it on a dynamometer before and after to see what if any performance gains were achieved. Bentley race teams probably used port matching on the race engines.

There was a new technique decades ago called "Extrude Honing" which used an abrasive paste to port match and smooth out the ports on heads, intakes and exhausts but I haven't heard of it being used much since it came out. It was less labor intensive than grinding by hand.

With a Phaeton or any stock street car, there isn't enough room in the engine compartment to run the best intake and exhaust for performance. On cars without struts, you can at least remove the fender liners to run headers. Catalytic converters add to the complexity. You have to include those on modern street driven cars. Some jurisdictions don't allow aftermarket high flow cats even if they meet emissions. In some jurisdictions the emissions equipment has to meet emissions and look stock.

Gutting the cat used to be a performance (or maintenance) mod but an exhaust shop in the US will be fined out of business if they do that.

Decades ago, I was getting something done at a car repair place. It had a poster on the wall about exhaust modifications. The poster said don't even ask them to remove a cat. It listed EPA fines for each infraction. Removing a CAT to install a "test pipe" was a $25,000.00 fine. For each offence.

-Eric


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> Jussi,
> 
> I liked your mods but they look labor intensive and probably engine out intensive.
> 
> ...


Hi Erik, everything you wrote is probably true  
In this case, these exhaust manifolds have been widened on a “what I feel” basis. Without more accurate measurements. What it affects the outcome is uncertain. Well, I did it because I think the end result could be better if I hadn’t done anything. Now it was not possible to run the car to the Dyno, before the changes, due to a crash. Be that as it may, I am only interested in what Dyno will show in due course. I expect final power will be 500 hp. The rest doesn't matter. In this case, too, it does not matter how much power the engine would have had before the changes. Reprogramming the engine ECU will play an important role as power increases.

By the way, my other car run in a dyno some time ago. Quite big changes are being made to it. According to the calculations, the powers and torque will double. It was stock when the power and torque curves were measured with the Dyno. The measurement report is on the garage wall.

I know of cases where the catalyst has been emptied and only the shells have been left. As a result, the exhaust flow is reduced and the engine does not run properly even if the engine ECU has been reprogrammed. This is fixed when a straight pipe is installed inside the cat's shells. This gives more power.

I don't know the regulations that are in the US. Pretty harsh sanctions seem to be there. I have heard that something similar is being planned in Finland as well.​If someone remove cat in Finland, It is likely that the car would not be approved at the roadworthiness test and the car would go under driving ban.
- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> Jussi,
> 
> I liked your mods but they look labor intensive and probably engine out intensive.
> 
> ...


Sorry Eric😔
I misspelled your name in a previous post.
- Jussi


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Jussi12 said:


> Sorry Eric😔
> I misspelled your name in a previous post.
> - Jussi


I'm OK with the Scandinavian or Nordic spelling, Jussi.

Sometimes people spell it Erick. 

I had reddish hair when I was a kid. My orthodontist called me "Eric the Red". 

There was a kid in one of my classes in elementary school named "Rick" but I heard "Eric" when the teacher called on him. I went through the whole school year thinking he was another Eric.

Eric is not a common name in the US, but is in the Scirocco forum. On there I go by OE for Old Eric.


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Hi,
Something new for a long time. The exhaust pipes are graduate from stainless steel. Bentley mufflers are on the back.They are also made of stainless steel. All the exhaust pipes will be ready soon. Yeah and the "new" engine and gearbox are already in place. Smokes taken from the engine, in other words it run








- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

HI,
Stainless exhaust system with Bentley Mufflers is installed in place. The Mufflers vacuum-controlled shut-off flap is now open all the time because the vacuum hose is not installed. I built the remote controlled mufflers vacum flap controller. Now I'm not sure if I'll install it. The difference in exhaust sounds is not large, regardless of whether the flaps is open or closed. I may be installing it because I already have it ready. Anyway, the exhaust sounds are now really awesome.
- Jussi


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

Looks great, did you use the mufflers from a Flying Spur or a Continental GT ... or are the the same physical size? I'm thinking of adding those to one of my W12s.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

I was going to get exhaust cutouts from ECS tuning. I haven't ordered them yet because you need the size. I'd have to check the inside diameter to verify before buying them. Then just yesterday I read the Utah codes and exhaust cut-outs are illegal so now I am conflicted.


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

Not sure exhaust cutouts would achieve the same sounds as a Bentley muffler.


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Phaetonlvr said:


> Looks great, did you use the mufflers from a Flying Spur or a Continental GT ... or are the the same physical size? I'm thinking of adding those to one of my W12s.


These are taken from the GT, but I think they are the similar as in the Flyig Spur. These have vacuum-controlled flaps at the ends of the exhaust pipe. I think Flying Supur's mufflers have the same flaps?
They fit directly into place. No changes are required.
And those exhaust sounds. Now the W12 sounds the way it should sound, great sounds, without being too loud.
- Jussi


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

Great info, thanks! That will make a retrofit real easy. I was looking at Bentley mufflers earlier this year and it looked like there were some versions that didn't have the vacuum-controlled flaps. Not sure if that wasn't standard on all Continentals or if the V8 GTs didn't have it?


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## Melvivio (Feb 12, 2017)

I mean.. the efforts to this project.. amazing.


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## rangsudh (Mar 20, 2013)

Jussi,

Amazing work!

I love the color of your Phaeton -- what is the official color name and color code?


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Thanks for encouraging!
I haven't been to this site in a couple of months. There has been all sorts of other rush. The car is now in the paint shop and the painting is almost complete. At first I thought of painting the car silk matte. However, I chose a glossy paint. I think the silky matte paint not looked good in the dark color. By the way, color is "Mignon Green Pearl Effect", Code: LR6V.
I hope to be able to continue working on this project soon.

- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Hi,
This is what the bow of a car looks like now. new headlights and grille. The fog lights and their grilles are still waiting to be installed.
Bumper broken during installation by paint-/repair shop. Also, the 4 parking sensors did not work after installation, although they had been found to work before installation. I will not publish the name of the company that did the work if we reach an agreement on the repair costs.


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

I can prove with 100% certainty that the parking sensors have been damaged during the installation of the bumper. Their functionality was checked by VW dealer shop and they was fully operational.
This was done before installing the bumper. Now after installing the bumper 4 parking sensors are not working and 2 are working. They broke when the bumper was pushed into place with excessive force. I checked each parking sensor separately using the VCDS. I put an obstacle in front of each parking sensor.The VCDS displays the distance between each sensor and the obstacle at a numeric value. As the distance between the obstacle placed in front of the sensors changes, so does the numerical value displayed by the VCDS. In the case of 2 parking sensors, the numerical value changes. For 4 non-functioning parking sensors, this numerical value is 255. This numeric value always remains at 255, even if the distance between the sensor and the obstacle changes. So 4 sensor not work. The bumpers installation was made in the workshop of a well-known and big car dealer. Well, there are probably much bigger car dealerships in the world, but in Finland this is big. They informed me that they take no responsibility for malfunctioning sensors. The car dealership is called Auto-Suni Oy. The car dealership has several offices in different locations in Finland.
Well, I now have to fix the sensors myself, although I think the one who broke them should do this job 🤬
Here are links to car dealership pages if anyone is interested.
www.Auto-Suni
Instagram-Auto-Suni
Facebook-Auto-Suni
- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Well, I still got the car back to my garage. Now I just do all work myself. There are some parts that still need to be installed. Their installation was also agreed to be part of the painting contract.
The bumper must be removed, repaired and painted, and the sensors replaced. Is there anything else to fix. I will see it when I remove the bumper. The bumper does not need to be painted completely. It is sufficient to paint the upper part of the bumper between the headlight washers. Once the front bumper and sensors have been repaired, I can continue other fixing work in the car. There is not much fixing left. What I do when all is ready? Or is it ever ready? Well, I have another unfinished project. Range Rover SVR, but this too should be completed soon.
- Jussi


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## kenus1 (Jun 18, 2020)

Jussi12 said:


> Well, I still got the car back to my garage. Now I just do all work myself. There are some parts that still need to be installed. Their installation was also agreed to be part of the painting contract.
> The bumper must be removed, repaired and painted, and the sensors replaced. Is there anything else to fix. I will see it when I remove the bumper. The bumper does not need to be painted completely. It is sufficient to paint the upper part of the bumper between the headlight washers. Once the front bumper and sensors have been repaired, I can continue other fixing work in the car. There is not much fixing left. What I do when all is ready? Or is it ever ready? Well, I have another unfinished project. Range Rover SVR, but this too should be completed soon.
> - Jussi


Hi Jussi

I have 4 brand new parking sensors for a Phaeton so if you need them i can give away them for a decent price or maybe trade to some parts if you have something interresting left from your project. I live in Espoo so please let me know if you need them?


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

kenus1 said:


> Hi Jussi
> 
> I have 4 brand new parking sensors for a Phaeton so if you need them i can give away them for a decent price or maybe trade to some parts if you have something interresting left from your project. I live in Espoo so please let me know if you need them?


I have another Phaeton from which I can take spare parts.
There is parking sensors in the rear bumper. I'll test first if they work. If there is something wrong with them, I can buy parking sensors from you. Do you need some parts? I can check if I have them.
Could you even send your contact information in a private message.
- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

I finally got myself moving and repairing the car. I prefer to do something new and interesting. Now I just have to repair the damage that the "professionals" did.
I was almost 100% sure that the parking sensors came broken when the bumper was installed using excessive force. Now it's 100% sure. Now that the bumper has been removed, more damage appeared. There is also other damages to the bumper that can be seen in the images below. The pictures also show how the parking sensors have been broken. Broken parking sensors have now been replaced. The system has been tested and is working without errors.
Bumper repair is still in progress. The pictures show how the repair is progressing. The method differs slightly from the traditional one. The carbon fiber mat is in front side of the bumper. Because there is a bracket on the back of the bumper, the traditional repair method cannot be used.
Bumper guide pins have to repair too. The guide pins must be in exactly the right place and in the right direction. I'll drill into the guide pins in the middle of a thin hole. I'll glue them and screw them to the bumper with a thin screw.
















- Jussi


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## dasantas (Mar 18, 2016)

Bonjour Jussy
comment avez-vous développé le sélecteur ? 
J'ai un phaeton de 2012 et je souhaite changer le sélecteur. 
Je l'ai reçu aujourd'hui.
Thanks 


Jussi12 said:


> Eh bien, je vais essayer de vous dire comment le nouveau sélecteur de vitesse a été installé. Retirez l'ancien sélecteur de vitesse. C'est-à-dire que la plaque de couverture en bois est retirée. Retirez la goupille de verrouillage en forme de U.
> Maintenant, l'ancien sélecteur de vitesse peut être retiré en le tirant fortement vers le haut.
> Maintenant, toutes les pièces du nouveau sélecteur de vitesse doivent être retirées séparément. Soyez prudent lorsque vous faites cela.
> Retirez le pied chromé et son tube intérieur apparaîtra. Il est collé, retirez d'abord la colle et retirez-le. Retirez les pièces chromées restantes, y compris les boutons aux deux extrémités et 2 pièces en cuir.
> ...


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

dasantas said:


> Bonjour Jussy
> comment avez-vous développé le sélecteur ?
> J'ai un phaeton de 2012 et je souhaite changer le sélecteur.
> Je l'ai reçu aujourd'hui.
> Thanks


Bonjour,
In that text, I have tried to figure out as precisely as possible how I did it.
If anything is still unclear, it will become clear when you set the new gear selector in place.
Chrome Coated pipe needs to be slightly lengthened. You can get a sequel from the old selector. Take a sample from the pictures.
Photos from the Phaeton project
- Jussi


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## dasantas (Mar 18, 2016)

Ok merci Jussy .

i will see that then
I thought it was plug an play.. that's a shame


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## dasantas (Mar 18, 2016)

I cut a piece and you stick it on the new one?
thank you


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

dasantas said:


> I cut a piece and you stick it on the new one?
> thank you


It is not plug and play, but it is possible.
Cut the pieces off the lower end of the pipe (new pipe). The lower end of the pipe becomes straight. Cut a piece of old pipe of a suitable length. Glue the pipes together. This will give you a sufficiently long chrome-plated pipe. See that picture. It shows everything that has been done for the pipe. Installing a new selector is a bit tricky, but I think you have the skill to do it.
- Jussi


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## dasantas (Mar 18, 2016)

do you have any pics of the selector assembly?
did you take it apart completely?
does the leather disassemble well?
Thanks for all Jussi12


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## dasantas (Mar 18, 2016)

before mounting the selector did you put it in the mounting position?
that is to say the box must be pulled outwards.
Thanks


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## dasantas (Mar 18, 2016)




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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Let's move this to a new thread

New gear selector

- Jussi


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## dasantas (Mar 18, 2016)

👍🏽👌🏽


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

The work continues, but a little slowly 
In addition to the crack, there was more to fix in the bumper cover.
These damage had also done during bad installation. I can't even write everything. Now the front bumper cover has been repaired, painted and installed. The parking sensors and the windscreen washer are working perfectly. Before installing the bumper, I also checked the operation of the headlight washers. Good thing I checked. It did not work. The pump motor was stuck. I got the "new" from my spare part car. Everything is working as it should now. Now that the front side is okay, I can focus on the rest of the work left. There is not much work left, but I’m a little tired and need a more motivation. A couple of well-slept night maybe help.








- Jussi


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## perni (Jun 9, 2016)

El esfuerzo que está tomando es grande pero el resultado es impresionante. Buen gusto también. Saludos.




View attachment 174383

- Jussi
[/CITA]


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

perni said:


> El esfuerzo que está tomando es grande pero el resultado es impresionante. Buen gusto también. Saludos.


Thanks for the plaudits
After all, there have been a lot of those jobs and there have been some worries. Here’s a link to another thread, 2 years ago when I started this job.
If you haven’t noticed this?
Photos from the Phaeton project VOL 2.
- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

The control arm is broken. Looks like the rubber has only recently broken. Probably when the car has been on a crane and the wheels are hanging freely. It should not break. Well, the rubber is old and maybe brittle. I have all the new front control arms and ball joints in storage. I noticed the damage as I attached the plastic shields to the bottom. I Should have my own crane. Annoyingly cramped to work with a jack. I was wondering if all the control arms should be replaced. I think I'll only replace that broken one and the others if there is something wrong with them.








- Jussi


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

That's a common failure ... the rubber just gets old after all those years. Two of my Phaetons had the exact same issue when I bought them and I just got in the habit of all the front control arms at the same time. The parts prices are reasonable and I have a lift to work on so it's really pretty cost effective to do.


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Phaetonlvr said:


> That's a common failure ... the rubber just gets old after all those years. Two of my Phaetons had the exact same issue when I bought them and I just got in the habit of all the front control arms at the same time. The parts prices are reasonable and I have a lift to work on so it's really pretty cost effective to do.


Is it a crane or a lift? I really need it. The work is quite tricky to do without it. I ask a familiar place what they charge.
Then I decide whether to do the work myself or not. Fortunately, the parts are not very expensive
- Jussi


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## trogdor1138 (Apr 13, 2015)

Yeah, I really wish I had a lift as well. I've just never lived in a place where it would be practical to install one. We're looking to move in the next year or two, and I think a suitable garage is on my short list of must-haves.

Your car looks great. My Phaeton doesn't have any body or bumper damage, but the interior needs love. I'm at the other end of the spectrum and just getting started. Good job with all the work you've put in!


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

Jussi12 said:


> Is it a crane or a lift? I really need it. The work is quite tricky to do without it. I ask a familiar place what they charge.
> Then I decide whether to do the work myself or not. Fortunately, the parts are not very expensive
> - Jussi


It's an in-floor scissor lift that works great, best thing I ever did when it comes to working on cars.


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

trogdor1138 said:


> Yeah, I really wish I had a lift as well. I've just never lived in a place where it would be practical to install one. We're looking to move in the next year or two, and I think a suitable garage is on my short list of must-haves.
> Your car looks great. My Phaeton doesn't have any body or bumper damage, but the interior needs love. I'm at the other end of the spectrum and just getting started. Good job with all the work you've put in!


Thanks for your encouraging 
It will be needed. Sometimes the motivation has been a bit missing. I spend a lot of time doing everything because I demand complete success from myself. I am a perfectionist and that is a burden for me. But no worries, I will continue to work without any hurry 
I hope you manage to make your car as you want it. Phaeton is a great car.
- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Bentley mufflers installation.








- Jussi


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

I have a Quickjack but it's not supposed to stay outside. I didn't know that before I read the directions.

My Phaeton is too low to use it until I jack it up. I didn't know that the Quickjack wouldn't lift from zero until I read the directions either. I have put the Ford on it a few times to work on brakes.

Other than it needing to be inside and the minimum height requirement, I'd recommend it.

I got the 7000 TLX

Portable Car Lift for your Garage or Shop - QuickJack

I also got some Pinch Weld pucks and Wall Hangers:

Essential Accessories for the QuickJack Car Lift


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> I have a Quickjack but it's not supposed to stay outside. I didn't know that before I read the directions.


It's also supposed to have front, side and rear clearance. I think the front is 12 feet and the rear is 6 feet. I think the sides are also 6 feet. 

It will lift with less space but you have to get to know it. That's another reason I tried it out on my Ford first.


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> I have a Quickjack but it's not supposed to stay outside. I didn't know that before I read the directions.
> My Phaeton is too low to use it until I jack it up. I didn't know that the Quickjack wouldn't lift from zero until I read the directions either. I have put the Ford on it a few times to work on brakes.
> Other than it needing to be inside and the minimum height requirement, I'd recommend it.
> I got the 7000 TLX
> ...


I don't know if such a "QuickJack" is available in Finland. It would not be an expensive investment.
Thanks for the tip 
- Jussi


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Jussi12 said:


> I don't know if such a "QuickJack" is available in Finland. It would not be an expensive investment.
> Thanks for the tip
> - Jussi


They have it in The Netherlands. They might ship to Finland.
Quickjack Netherlands | Quickjack portable Carlifts | Bendpak (quickjack-nederland.nl)

They do ship to Finland.

Finland is between Estonia and France:

Shipping Destinations - Liftmotive - QuickJack - BendPak - MaxJax

I think the Euro prices are a bit high. They may have sales. I got mine on sale.

It may be possible to use it in my garage. I just have to get comfortable outside first and check how far my Phaeton moves forward. 

I don't have the recommended space in front or to the sides outside either but am not really worried about the Ford falling. My Ford doesn't really have equal lifting spots on its frame so it comes up a bit higher in front. I put it up to the first level and try to push it off the lift.

I might worry more if there was a chance of my Ford falling into a Fjord.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Important points about the QuickJack::

I got the 7000 TLX because it was the only 7000 LB QuickJack that I thought was (probably) long enough for my Phaeton. 

Be sure to measure your Phaeton. 

Measuring Guide for the QuickJack Portable Car Lift

At its longest the 7000 TLX just barely reaches where I was planning to lift mine. I think that was estimated using pinch weld pucks. It has a maximum lift point spread of 66".

Since I haven't lifted it yet, I have not verified that it's long enough. The 6000ELX has a maximum lift point spread of 76" but only lifts up to 6000 Lbs.


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## Robert.Vangeenen (Sep 29, 2005)

Jussi12 said:


> I don't know if such a "QuickJack" is available in Finland. It would not be an expensive investment.
> Thanks for the tip
> - Jussi


My thoughts exactly!


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## Robert.Vangeenen (Sep 29, 2005)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> They have it in The Netherlands. They might ship to Finland.
> Quickjack Netherlands | Quickjack portable Carlifts | Bendpak (quickjack-nederland.nl)
> 
> They do ship to Finland.
> ...


Now I know they're also based over here in the NL I'll seriously consider purchasing a QJ. Thanks @53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN !


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

I have a bit of a cramped space, so this kind of QuickJack would be good because it is portable. I also found another one in the same price range.
I have to measure and consider. There should be enough height. I think this is even cheap and can be found in Finland.








- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Drive axle greases for replacement. The front left drive joint was little leaking. It's such a messy job that I think I'll only make this one drive shaft. The inside is a tripod CV and the outer one is a standard 6-ball CV joint. The grease on the tripod CV joint should probably be NGLI #1. Red Line CV-2 is apparently NGLI #2.
However, I was thinking of using it on both CV joints of the drive shaft. I asked a few professionals about this and they said Red Line CV-2 is ok for both CV joints.
Everything is marked and the parts go back into place in exactly the same position.









- Jussi


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

I've replaced the CV Boots on the front axles on three of my W12s. The way I replaced the boots was to take off the outer CV joint and then you can slide the inner boot over the shaft onto the inner CV joint without having to take that one apart. I see you took the inner CV joint off, how did you do that?

The original VW CV Boot Kit contains different grease for the inner and out joint. Here's the kit for the inner CV joint:










Here's the kit for the outer CV joint:


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## Robert.Vangeenen (Sep 29, 2005)

Phaetonlvr said:


> I've replaced the CV Boots on the front axles on three of my W12s. The way I replaced the boots was to take off the outer CV joint and then you can slide the inner boot over the shaft onto the inner CV joint without having to take that one apart. I see you took the inner CV joint off, how did you do that?
> 
> The original VW CV Boot Kit contains different grease for the inner and out joint. Here's the kit for the inner CV joint:
> 
> ...


Thanks for sharing the information, Stephan! Assuming these are OEM kits, what are their respective part numbers?

- Robert


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

Those are original VW parts. Front Inner CV Boot Kit is part # 3D0-498-201, the Front Outer CV Boot Kit is part #3D0-498-203. Keep in mind those are specific to the W12s as the front axles are different on the V8 models.


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Phaetonlvr said:


> I've replaced the CV Boots on the front axles on three of my W12s. The way I replaced the boots was to take off the outer CV joint and then you can slide the inner boot over the shaft onto the inner CV joint without having to take that one apart. I see you took the inner CV joint off, how did you do that?
> The original VW CV Boot Kit contains different grease for the inner and out joint.


Yes, I know VW has a different grease for the inner and outer joint!
A slightly thinner grease is used in the triple roller joint (NGLI #1) However, I use Red Line CV-2 (NGLI #2) grease in both. It exceeds the quality of original VW grease. This is my own decision. However, I also ask the opinion of friends who have several ten years of experience in the repair of drive joints. If anyone doubts, use VW's original greases. There can certainly be many different opinions on this, but I'm not going to start arguing about it now.
A hydraulic press is used in the video. It's the best way to do this job. You can also use a hammer and some tool "shock rod", which is a softer metal than the CV joint so that the joint itself is not damaged. The parts can be removed by hitting them. The parts of the joint must be marked before disassembly so that they go in exactly the same order when assembling the joint.
When using old joint parts, the bearing and sliding surfaces must be in their original places.
CV joint axle rebuild AAR3300i. Audi/VW - YouTube








- Jussi


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

That's interesting, thanks for sharing the video. When I did this job the first time I was unsure how to separate the inner joint but figured out that if you take the outer one off then you can just slide the inner boot over the axle shaft from the outside. The outer CV joint is pretty easy to get off by just using a drift (a metal rod) placed right at the inner side of the joint next to the shaft and one good blow from a heavy hammer and it will slide off. The hydraulic press method is a little more precise but is a lot more work.


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Phaetonlvr said:


> That's interesting, thanks for sharing the video. When I did this job the first time I was unsure how to separate the inner joint but figured out that if you take the outer one off then you can just slide the inner boot over the axle shaft from the outside. The outer CV joint is pretty easy to get off by just using a drift (a metal rod) placed right at the inner side of the joint next to the shaft and one good blow from a heavy hammer and it will slide off. The hydraulic press method is a little more precise but is a lot more work.


The inner and outer joint can be disassembled quite easily without a hydraulic press. But it's just so messy. Black grease is everywhere 😖
The other joints don't seem to be faulty and don't leak, so I'll just do this one drive shaft. If the others fail or start to leak, I replace them with "new" ones. An original new VW part is quite expensive, but I found refurbished originals (VW) for a reasonable price, I would say cheap. Let's see if I will need them later 
- Jussi


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Jussi12 said:


> The inner and outer joint can be disassembled quite easily without a hydraulic press. But it's just so messy. Black grease is everywhere 😖
> The other joints don't seem to be faulty and don't leak, so I'll just do this one drive shaft. If the others fail or start to leak, I replace them with "new" ones. An original new VW part is quite expensive, but I found refurbished originals (VW) for a reasonable price, I would say cheap. Let's see if I will need them later
> - Jussi


I cleaned and repacked the CV joints on my first Scirocco. I know I did it more than once for the outers, but it may have been one side at a time. The first time I must have driven it thousands of miles with one outer CV joint knocking every time I turned. It's hard to mark the cage and the other parts of the CV joint with anything that would stick because of the grease. I used a hacksaw and that barely made a scratch, but it was enough. I couldn't find a way to keep track of the balls but repacking it with new grease and putting a new boot on sure quieted it down. That blacker than night grease dirtied my favorite shirt but I used ERA liquid detergent and it came right out. It took longer to come out of my hands. I did eventually buy new CV joints but that was as a preventive measure and I don't think I ever installed them. 

I would be more hesitant to repack mine now but that's just because I don't have a parts washer. 

I suspect that "refurbished" are just cleaned with fresh grease (probably still in the tube) and new boots. The CV Joint components and balls seem to be hardened like tool steel.


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> It's hard to mark the cage and the other parts of the CV joint with anything that would stick because of the grease. I used a hacksaw and that barely made a scratch, but it was enough. I couldn't find a way to keep track of the balls but repacking it with new grease and putting a new boot on sure quieted it down.
> I suspect that "refurbished" are just cleaned with fresh grease (probably still in the tube) and new boots. The CV Joint components and balls seem to be hardened like tool steel.


You are right. Marking the parts and keeping order is challenging. One of my ways was to use a Dremel. I made small marks on some parts of the joint and axle. Of course not for bearing surfaces.
I managed to keep the other parts, such as the balls, in order.
If the worn part is refurbished by changing only the greases, it is a scam. Someone would notice this scam. Once the scam came out, it would probably be the end of that company. So I don't think any company would take such a risk.
- Jussi


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Jussi12 said:


> You are right. Marking the parts and keeping order is challenging. One of my ways was to use a Dremel. I made small marks on some parts of the joint and axle. Of course not for bearing surfaces.
> I managed to keep the other parts, such as the balls, in order.
> If the worn part is refurbished by changing only the greases, it is a scam. Someone would notice this scam. Once the scam came out, it would probably be the end of that company. So I don't think any company would take such a risk.
> - Jussi


They are like bearings. Once they get to know each other (wear together) then you can repack them with grease or replace them. 

According to my old Bentley manuals if the balls or the race or the cage or any parts are damaged, the whole CV joint has to be thrown out because everything in that CV joint only fits that CV joint. They were made to a standard tolerance before assembly, but the parts wore together. I think my old Bentleys mentioned the balls delaminating as a possible failure but that's not in the Phaeton manual. You are supposed to inspect everything after cleaning before repacking them.

This is from the Phaeton manual pages which I have included:

"The six balls for each joint belong to a tolerance group. Check stub axle, hub, cage and balls for small indentations (pitting) and traces of seizing. Too much circumferential backlash in the joint becomes noticeable during load change jolts; in such cases, the joint must be renewed. Smoothing and traces of wear of the balls are no reason to change the joint."

There is cleaning, inspecting, repacking or renewing (replacing). There is no rebuilding.

I don't know how a company could rebuild them if the balls or cage or anything else was damaged. It would be a junk CV joint. That's why I think they just clean them and put them in a kit with new grease, clamps and boots. They are saving you the labor of cleaning and inspecting them. They probably use precision measuring tools to check the backlash.

If you don't have a parts washer sink or precision measuring tools then a refurbished CV joint kit could be an option.


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> They are like bearings. Once they get to know each other (wear together) then you can repack them with grease or replace them.
> According to my old Bentley manuals if the balls or the race or the cage or any parts are damaged, the whole CV joint has to be thrown out because everything in that CV joint only fits that CV joint. They were made to a standard tolerance before assembly, but the parts wore together. I think my old Bentleys mentioned the balls delaminating as a possible failure but that's not in the Phaeton manual. You are supposed to inspect everything after cleaning before repacking them.
> This is from the Phaeton manual pages which I have included:
> "The six balls for each joint belong to a tolerance group. Check stub axle, hub, cage and balls for small indentations (pitting) and traces of seizing. Too much circumferential backlash in the joint becomes noticeable during load change jolts; in such cases, the joint must be renewed. Smoothing and traces of wear of the balls are no reason to change the joint."There is cleaning, inspecting, repacking or renewing (replacing). There is no rebuilding.
> ...


I very much agree. I have that Phaeton manual and have read those things.
Measuring is the most important thing in rebuilding. The drive axle itself is a part that does not normally wear out, and there is no need to replace it. If it is damaged, then it is thrown away, like other parts that are too worn. A part that is intact and has the correct dimensions does not need to be replaced. The parts of the joint are therefore measured. If all parts are within the permitted dimensions, it can be repackaged. I meant that they can't refurbish the joint without measuring all parts of it. Some parts can be replaced. For example, a tripod and use an old bearing housing if it is not too worn. These parts are matched to each other and if the dimensions are within the permitted limits, the new tribod can be used. The entire six-ball joint can also be replaced with a new one if necessary. What does rebuilded/refurbished mean? When all the parts are measured and they are ok. In addition to that, greases, boots, etc. are replaced with new ones. I think then the part can be called rebuilded/refurbished. If the drive axle and its joints are repacked without measuring all parts and they change only grease and boots. It is a scam and you may pay for a defective part.
- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Right front axle done. I hope I don't have to do this again. It's such a messy job.








- Jussi


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Your axle looks great, Jussi. 

I think the only thing that could render an axle unusable is if it gets hit and is bent. 

I bought new axles for my Scirocco and Corrado just in case mine were bent. Those axles often had balancing weights (like wheel weights) from the VW factory. Classic Jaguar had new balanced driveshafts for the E-Type and they can also balance your original. (I don't know about parts now because of the global supply chain issue.) If a driveshaft or axle is bent it can whip.


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

I only do one...
Well, one looked good and the other 3 didn't. I just couldn't pass them up. Washing, grinding, 2k acid base paint, 2k topcoat, grease change, new plastic boot. etc. Rear drive shaft (inner CV-joint) back side is covered with metal end cap. There is sealing plate and sealant. I didn’t have original VW sealant (D454300A2) , but I use Loctite 5910. I was not able to check whether the dimensions of all parts are within the allowed tolerances. But since I didn't notice any problems or noises while driving, I think everything is fine. Sometimes I think life could be easier if I didn't have such a demanding personality.








- Jussi


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## Robert.Vangeenen (Sep 29, 2005)

I think you're not the only one on this forum with that type of personality disorder. 🤣😆

Great job, by the way!👌


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Well, I bought brand new "better" aftermarket loaded axles with CV joints for my Scirocco and Corrado just in case the originals were out of balance. I had no reason to suspect unbalanced axles, but I bought them anyway. I don't know which company made mine but Raxles (or something similar) is a well-known aftermarket FWD and AWD axle company.


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Found them but I don't see a way to order without emailing or calling.

Raxles, America's premier supplier of OE quality CV Axles and CV joints - Raxles Inc.


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

I've driven the car for a few days now. Two problems noticed...
The bonnet warning light or -symbol does not come on even though it is open. One wire is broken right next to the lock. Well, that should be an easy fix. All the wheels were balanced, but there is still some vibration. In spite of balancing, the fault is in the wheels. More specifically, in one or more rims.
I know a good workshop that repairs rims. It may be that I will fix the rim only when I change the winter tires on the car. There will be studded tires for the winter. In Finland, they can be installed in the car on November 1 at the earliest, i.e. after 2 months. Just to be sure, I'm taking all the rims to be checked. The car should not be driven much until the rim(s) have been repaired/straightened out.
Well, let's see...





























It looks like there is a scratch on the fender. But that's just a reflection.





















- Jussi


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## Robert.Vangeenen (Sep 29, 2005)

I had the same issue with the hood. I replaced the switch in the hood latch. That fixed it. It's easily accessible. A relatively easy fix indeed. Good luck fixing the rims!👍 Replacing my front discs and pads took care of the nasty vibration I experienced when braking at higher speeds (80+ kmh).


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## Robert.Vangeenen (Sep 29, 2005)

A related issue I experienced was when my oil level warning indication came on. It wouldn't go away even after I checked and topped up the oil level. Turns out the warning will only be erased after the system detects that the hood has been opened and that way gets confirmation that someone indeed checked the oil level. Even the workshop I took it to didn't know this and ended up replacing the oil level sensor which obviously solved absolutely nothing. I only had the car for a short while at that point. If only I knew then what I know now 😁

- Robert


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Robert.Vangeenen said:


> A related issue I experienced was when my oil level warning indication came on. It wouldn't go away even after I checked and topped up the oil level. Turns out the warning will only be erased after the system detects that the hood has been opened and that way gets confirmation that someone indeed checked the oil level. Even the workshop I took it to didn't know this and ended up replacing the oil level sensor which obviously solved absolutely nothing. I only had the car for a short while at that point. If only I knew then what I know now 😁
> - Robert


Ok, I didn't know about this. You can learn endless something new things about this car 😆
Well, I don't remember that oil level warning indication came on never. In any case, that broken wire needs to be fixed or replace the switch in the hood latch. 

It was hard to find a missing cover plate or even a part number anywhere. Well, I finally found one on eBay and ordered it. Maybe it was the only one for sale.








- Jussi


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## Alexphaeton (Jan 30, 2012)

Jussi12 said:


> I've driven the car for a few days now. Two problems noticed...
> The bonnet warning light or -symbol does not come on even though it is open. One wire is broken right next to the lock. Well, that should be an easy fix. All the wheels were balanced, but there is still some vibration. In spite of balancing, the fault is in the wheels. More specifically, in one or more rims.
> I know a good workshop that repairs rims. It may be that I will fix the rim only when I change the winter tires on the car. There will be studded tires for the winter. In Finland, they can be installed in the car on November 1 at the earliest, i.e. after 2 months. Just to be sure, I'm taking all the rims to be checked. The car should not be driven much until the rim(s) have been repaired/straightened out.
> Well, let's see...
> ...


Jussi,
Without doubt the rims could be the cause of the vibration...... have you considered that it can also be - 1 or more of - the wheel bearings ?

Regards,
Alex


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Jussi12 said:


> Ok, I didn't know about this. You can learn endless something new things about this car 😆
> Well, I don't remember that oil level warning indication came on never. In any case, that broken wire needs to be fixed or replace the switch in the hood latch.
> 
> It was hard to find a missing cover plate or even a part number anywhere. Well, I finally found one on eBay and ordered it. Maybe it was the only one for sale.
> ...


7579 was missing this. I couldn't find the part number anywhere and couldn't find it or the back engine trim on eBay. 

I finally found the engine trim piece on The Intewebs with the battery cover but it was in Germany and they didn't speak English. I used MSN translator to communicate with them and they agreed to sell it to me and send it to the US. 

Would you happen to have the part number for the plastic cap that goes over the negative terminal?


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> Would you happen to have the part number for the plastic cap that goes over the negative terminal?


I miss it too. Unfortunately I don't know the part number. I think it's not a very important part.
- Jussi


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

Alexphaeton said:


> Jussi,
> Without doubt the rims could be the cause of the vibration...... have you considered that it can also be - 1 or more of - the wheel bearings ?
> Regards,
> Alex


I think the problem is with the rim, but I can't be absolutely sure it's not the wheel bearing. If it was the wheel bearing I think it would make noise. However, now I don't hear any extra noise.
- Jussi


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Thanks Jussie. I can't find the part number listed anywhere but it would be a nice touch.


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## Jussi12 (Nov 30, 2007)

53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN said:


> Thanks Jussie. I can't find the part number listed anywhere but it would be a nice touch.


If I find the part number I will post it here on the forum.
- Jussi


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