# Why the secondary / auxiliary / after-run water pump stops working and what you can do to fix it



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops working and what you can do to fix*

My secondary water pump has been on the fritz lately. If you're not exactly sure what I'm talking about, it's the electric pump on the rear, driver's side of the engine that runs whenever the ignition is turned on and for 5-10 minutes after the ignition is turned off. I've read that the pump is supposed to keep the head from warping by helping to cool down the head after engine shutdown. I also know that it keeps hot coolant flowing through the heater core, which give you good heat for a decent amount of time if you're sitting in the car with the engine off. Maybe it's just an electrical backup to the mechanical main pump that will keep the engine from having a major overheat if the main pump fails. Who knows? Regardless, even though it's there for a reason, many of us have run our cars without one for extended periods of time. My original one sprung a leak and coolant got into the motor housing and fried it. That was at 60k miles and I didn't realize it was dead until over 70k miles later. My engine didn't blow up. I still replaced it and the new one ran great for 87k miles ... until recently.
Lately, the pump would run sometimes and not others. When it did run, sometimes it would run fast and others it would run slower. Sometimes it sounded like it was trying to climb Mt. Everest. Whatever was going on, it definitely wasn't right. During a search for more info on problems with the pump, I stumbled across this interesting thread by nuugen. The pic links are not valid anymore, but it's still a good read. It inspired me to take my good pump apart and see what the problem was.
Following are the steps for taking apart the pump. Before you attempt to do this, I'm warning you. It's a piece of cake to take the pump apart, but it can be a major challenge to put it back together. PLEASE read the ENTIRE list of steps BEFORE you take your pump apart.
I'm assuming that you know where it is and that it's already been removed from the car. If you can't get your pump out without instructions, then I strongly recommend that you don't take it apart.

*DISASSEMBLY*
1. Here's the pump that I'm talking about. The pump consists of two major sections, the motor housing (red arrow) and the impeller housing (yellow arrow). The electric motor in the motor housing drives an impeller in the impeller housing via a magnetic coupling. There is no direct connection between the two (it's pretty cool actually). The two housings are isolated from one another by a rubber o-ring. On my old pump this seal failed and coolant got into the motor housing, burning out the motor.









2. To disconnect the impeller housing from the motor housing, remove the four Phillips screws indicated by the red arrows.









3. The two sections should easily pull apart, as shown below.









4. The top of the impeller housing is shown below. Note the locating pin (red arrow) next to one of the screw holes. This lines up with a locating hole on the motor housing. When reassembling the pump, these obviously need to line up.









5. The bottom of the motor housing is shown below. The locating hole is indicated with the red arrow. The yellow arrow indicates the "cup" that surrounds part of the impeller housing and is rotated by the electric motor. This is where the magnetic coupling is made.









6. Open up the impeller housing by carefully separating its two main sections at the interface indicated by the red arrow. Use a small screwdriver or something similar and don't be too rough. You want the seal between the two to be intact upon reassembly.









7. Separating the two sections reveals the impeller (red arrow) that pumps the coolant in one fitting and out the other.









8. The lower portion of the impeller housing should have the o-ring in it (red arrow), as well as a small metal bushing clipped to it (yellow arrow). Do NOT loose either of these pieces!









9. The impeller (red arrow) rotates around a shaft (yellow arrow). My impeller housing was very clean inside and the impeller slid off of the shaft easily. You may find your impeller housing very dirty and the impeller may not slide off easily or may not rotate at all. If it's dirty, then clean it well. 









10. There should be another small bushing on the impeller shaft. If it's not there, then check on the underside of the impeller. Do NOT lose this piece!!!









*WARNING: This is where it starts getting tricky. Depending on how handy you are, disassembling the motor housing may be a one-way operation. It's easy to take apart, but can be next to impossible to put back together properly. You'll see why in a few pictures. Proceed at your own risk.*

11. The sections of the motor housing are secured by bent metal tabs (red arrows), six on top and six below. There is also a locating nub on the upper plastic section where the electrical contacts for the wiring harness are. When reassembling the motor housing, this nub needs to line up with the appropriate indent in the steel body.









12. I removed the upper portion of the motor housing by bending out the six tabs until they were flush with the rest of the steel body. The upper portion will slide up and out easily after this is done.
NOTE: I only removed the upper portion of the housing, while nuugen also removed the lower portion. I found it extremely difficult to reassemble the motor housing for reasons that will be discussed shortly. nuugen didn't seem to have this problem and it may be because he disassembled both portions. I had trouble removing the lower portions because of how far the tabs were bent in and I was afraid of cracking the lower plastic portion of the housing. Feel free to remove the lower portion, but I can't give any specific steps or advice if you do. If someone does and finds that reassembly is easier, please take pictures and I'll revise this DIY. Thanks.









13. When you pull off the upper section, the reason why the pump becomes flaky and sometimes stops working correctly becomes clear. The reason is simple. Dust from the carbon brushes makes a mess of the innards of the motor. The red arrow points to the commutator of the motor that the brushes ride against.









14. The carbon dust also makes a mess of the electrical contacts and the brushes themselves. The brushes (red arrows) are electrically connected to the wiring harness contacts by copper braids (yellow arrows) and are spring loaded (green arrows) so that they make good constant contact with the commutator. 

















15. The main problem with the carbon dust is that it prevents the brushes from moving easily and smoothly in their little channels (red arrows) as the motor spins and the brushes wear from being in constant contact with the commutator. If the brushes can't advance properly as they wear, then the necessary electrical contact between the brushes and commutator will be lost and the pump will slow down or stop working altogether.









16. Assuming that there is actually some portion of the brushes left (if they're worn completely, then nothing short of replacing them will get the pump working again), then all you need to do to get the pump working like new again is to clean out all off the carbon dust from inside the motor housing. nuugen used PBBlaster to do this. I'm not a big fan of mixing liquids and electrical parts, unless it's contact cleaner, so I just carefully used compressed air to clean the dust out of all ares of the motor housing. Worked like a charm. The picture below shows the upper portion after it's been cleaned. I also removed the springs and slid the brushes out of their channels for illustrative purposes. You don't need to do this, but you can if you want to.








*REASSEMBLY*
OK, so this is the tricky part. Now that the brushes are clean and will move freely in their channels, they will extend fully (towards one another). In order to get the commutator in between them, they need to be retracted. Because I only took the top portion off and the commutator is buried down inside the steel body of the motor housing, I found it next to impossible to retract the brushes, hold them back and then slide the upper portion of the motor housing into the steel body without the brushes breaking free and extending before the commutator was between them. This is where removing the lower portion of the motor housing may help immensely, but since I didn't do it, I can't comment on it.
Here's what I did to reassemble the motor housing. You can laugh at me for being a dumbass, but it worked and MacGyver would be damn proud. I took two pieces of thread from my wife's sewing machine, looped the thread around the brushes and pulled to retract them, wrapped the thread around the plastic guard for the wiring harness contacts, dropped the upper portion in place, released the tension on the threads and then pulled the threads out. I would have taken pictures, but I could have used more than two hands just to do the reassembly.
I turned my igniton key on and off quickly (to get 12v to the wiring harness) and then temporarily hooked the wiring harness up. The pump ran perfectly! I reinstalled it, put the car back together and saved myself $100.
Have fun doing this if you're brave. If anyone finds a better way of reassembling the pump, then please let me know. Pics would be greatly appreciated too.









*As always, do this procedure at your own risk. I am not responsible for any mistakes in the procedure or those that you make while performing it.*

EDIT: I finally took some pictures of the coolant pump that burned out and was replaced 70k miles later by the one above. This thing looks like it exploded! The red arrow is where the housing broke and coolant leaked around the o-ring from the impeller housing into the motor housing.


















































_Modified by VgRt6 at 6:45 PM 9-20-2007_


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary (auxillary, after-run) water pump stops working and what y ... (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_saved myself $100.

Does that count the time you had to pay yourself to do the labor?


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## shortshiften (Mar 29, 2005)

great DIY


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary (need_a_VR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *need_a_VR6* »_
Does that count the time you had to pay yourself to do the labor?









I bill out at a RIDICULOUSLY high rate, so I made a killing on this job!








Actually, I don't even consider labor time (=money) since it's not an option. With my mortgage, if I don't fix the car, then the car doesn't get fixed.














And anytime I don't have to buy a new part is free money. I didn't replace my clutch when I did my timing chains hoping that I would get at least another year out of it. That was 3 years and 72k miles ago.


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## corpsedub (Aug 3, 2001)

nice writeup. i have dissasembled a few of these and the brushes are a pain to get retracted so you can slide the shaft through. i'll keep the string method in mind should i do this again


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## Cubix (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: (corpsedub)*

You mentioned that it keeps hot coolant going through the heater core when the engine is off. Well once I turn my car off, the heat dies really quickly, I'm wondering if my pump is even operational...
Awesome write up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I love taking things apart








[edit]
What the hell, I just found a post i wrote 2 years ago on another aux pump servicing thread and I ended it the same way... Whoa... deja vu


_Modified by Cubix at 3:51 PM 1-22-2007_


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (Cubix)*

Turn the ignition on and off quickly, pop the hood and listen at the rear driver's side of the engine, just behind the coilpack. Do you hear anything? If not, then this procedure is for you!


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## Cubix (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: (shortshiften)*

Awesome, I'll do it when I get back from working in houston.
Atleast it's a little warmer down here


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## abt cup (Aug 1, 2000)

Nice DIY. 
My pump at times chatters like mad...and its not even that old. Replaced it in 04.


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## 93SLCyasee (Jul 22, 2004)

My pump currently started to sound like its gargling rocks. Gonna follow this DIY and clean it out as well.


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## B3M3nkey (May 1, 2004)

*Re: (93SLCyasee)*

got a used one for sale. works great. put this one in and reman your old one.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2974517


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

*Re: (B3M3nkey)*

Wait until I show you guys the Jabsco bilge pump retrofit


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## 92rado2.8 (Jul 12, 2004)

*Re: (need_a_VR6)*

I got you on that Bilge pump (need_a_vr6), just hit me up!!!








Its really funny how similar that motor is to an electric rc-car motor. It is just about the same damn thing!!!
Vgrt6 I wonder if you could do an aux water pump up-grade DIY for a nice 10 turn 2 wind motor from Kyosho 
(need_a_vr6) any Ideas??


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## animaniac (May 26, 2005)

*Re: (92rado2.8)*

Nice diy write up..
My pump went and was grinding for ages until it started to leak, the impella unit was seal and that split open.
i'm sure i chucked the whole lot in the bin, because i knew it was sealed and couldnt be fixed.
I ended up buying a new one, and when i read this i could save the motor for spares, and i was alittle naffed off... but i just remember it at the top aswell leaking at the top so the motor would be screwed anyway..
but i'll remember in future that they can be fixed aslong as its not leaking...


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

*Re: (92rado2.8)*

The RC motor would almost defintiely spin too fast, especially on 12v, if it doesn't burn out. 
Brushes might be a direct fit though (or close), and you can clean the commutator with an electric motor cleaning tool.


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## 90GreenG60 (Nov 20, 2001)

*Re: (need_a_VR6)*

great writeup http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 92rado2.8 (Jul 12, 2004)

*Re: (need_a_VR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *need_a_VR6* »_The RC motor would almost defintiely spin too fast, especially on 12v, if it doesn't burn out. 
Brushes might be a direct fit though (or close), and you can clean the commutator with an electric motor cleaning tool.

I was just kidding







, but it would be funny though just like your bilge pump idea


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## SSheikh (Jul 19, 2000)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops working and what y ... (VgRt6)*

Gotta solute your dedication to vortex man. That is an excellent writeup. I know how time consuming taking pictures and doing writeup based on them is.
Looking at your pictures I would say that at least one of the brushes on your motor is done. Even after the thorough cleanup you did I doubt it will last very long. 
I have bought brushes from hardware stores before but they are hard to find. http://www.graphitestore.com is one source but is somewhat expensive.
BTW, if anyone is looking for motor parts I have my original pump with a broken impeller. Since my Passat is dead and I'm not sure if I'll get rid of it or try to fix it, if anyone wants that pump its yours. Just pay for shipping. I don't know what shape the motor in it is. Haven't open it. Right now I don't even know where it is. Probably somewhere in my pile of junk.


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops work ... (SSheikh)*

I'll take it. I work down the road from you in Chantilly and can come pick it up. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif If the motor is still good, then I can swap the intact impeller from my oldf pump into it. Even if the motor is bad, I still might be able to use the brushes from it for my working pump.










_Modified by VgRt6 at 8:32 PM 1-25-2007_


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops work ... (SSheikh)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SSheikh* »_Gotta solute your dedication to vortex man. That is an excellent writeup. I know how time consuming taking pictures and doing writeup based on them is.

It's ironic that you say that. My whole DIY crusade on Vortex started with some MAF info that you posted years ago - http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=773176.


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## evolixsurf (Jan 17, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops work ... (VgRt6)*

well I broke off the downward outlet of my AUX pump and just bought a new one. Problem is it still doesnt work, neither does my fans. 95 VR6. Anyone have any ideas?


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops work ... (evolixsurf)*

Have you checked for power at the pump harness? If the new pump doesn't work, then you must have a blown fuse somewhere.


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## 161324 (Jul 28, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops working and what y ... (VgRt6)*

Gary, you never cease to amaze me. If I wasn't married...............


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops wo ... (silentdub)*


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

*Re: (92rado2.8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *92rado2.8* »_
it would be funny though just like your bilge pump idea










What do you mean idea, I did that awhile ago. When mine broke, eventually I figured that it weighed too much and had to go.


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## VertigoGTI (Apr 1, 2001)

*Re: (need_a_VR6)*

Is it possible to just buy new brushes for the motor? I'm going to re-do most of my coolant system and I KNOW that my pump isn't working.


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (VertigoGTI)*

It looks like it would be fairly easy to solder new brushes in place. The hard part would be locating brushes that would fit properly.


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## emilime75 (Mar 27, 2002)

When I bought my car, a 93 Passat GLX/VR6 w/ an automatic, it never had the auxillary pump. It had been removed by the previous owner and the car has been fine since. It's now been 3 years and about 45,000 miles. I don't see why bother fixing/replacing it when it doesn't appear to be needed much at all.


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (emilime75)*

I went for over 70k miles without the pump working as well. But just because the engine doesn't blow up doesn't mean that there isn't a purpose for the pump being there. There's no way that VW would have incorporated it into the design if it was pointless.


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## kevwithoutacorrado (Jun 9, 2000)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

Sweet write up, I tried the same thing on mine last year, but since mine was cracked and leaking all over, this was not the problem. Good stuff though.


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## stealthmk1 (Aug 17, 2001)

*Re: (kevwithoutacorrado)*

Is there a difference in when and how the pump runs in OBD1 vs OBD2?


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (stealthmk1)*

Good question. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## stealthmk1 (Aug 17, 2001)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

my OBD2 Mk2s pump will run any time the key is turned on. The pump in my Mk3 (OBD1) does not work at all. During the course of diagnosing it I will find out the answer and post it up. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## VertigoGTI (Apr 1, 2001)

*Re: (stealthmk1)*

This should defintely be in your master list.


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## sun98gtiVR6 (Jan 7, 2007)

*Re: (stealthmk1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stealthmk1* »_my OBD2 Mk3s pump will run any time the key is turned on. 

x2 mine functions the same way http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops work ... (SSheikh)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SSheikh* »_BTW, if anyone is looking for motor parts I have my original pump with a broken impeller. 

Shahid-
I took the old pump that you gave me today apart when I got home. It didn't work at all, so I took the motor housing apart. The brushes are even more worn than the one I'm currently using and the one in the pics in the original post. It's a shame that the Vortexer who sold it to you wasn't completely honest about the condition it was in.








Here's what the inside of your pump's motor housing looks like. I'm going to clean it out and see if I can get it working again. The brushes are almost gone, but the only reason it wasn't working was that carbon dust was keeping the brushes from pressing against the commutator properly. It still has a few miles left in it.








In the meantime, I'm going to see if I can track down replacement brushes that will work. If I do, I'll take it apart again and solder them in.



















_Modified by VgRt6 at 7:18 PM 4-9-2007_


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## VertigoGTI (Apr 1, 2001)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops work ... (VgRt6)*

Well, I got around to doing this today and either the MK3 pumps are a little different or the pump is just that far gone.
1.) I bent out the tabs and the top would come off without some assistance from a vice and pliers. 
2.) I got it off only to find that my brushes are almost completely gone and one of the channels that hold them in on one side look to be missing. Not broken, just missing. Weird...
3.) The shaft to the motor (thingy with the wound wires in bundles) will not spin at all, even with me trying to push it. The wheel will only move 90° at a time and looks like it's just resisting magnetic force. 
Any ideas? I know that I'll have to replace it, but I'm curious to see if I can get it working as a personal challenge.


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## benny_mech (Mar 5, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops work ... (VertigoGTI)*

Nice writeup! This is on my to do list. I believe the function of this pump is to save the motor in the event that the engine is run hard and shut off immediately. The fans continue to run, but if the coolant doesn't circulate, they will only cool what's in the radiator.


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## gehr (Jan 28, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops work ... (benny_mech)*

Anyone wired up the pump to be turned on manually, I think of this when I'm at the track, it be nice to leave it running for longer than couple of minutes (mine doesn't seem to run more than that, ever?!??!!) A switch from the battery or is there a better hot wire some where closer to the pump. Car is Mk4!


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## cgeromi (Apr 30, 2006)

*Re: (stealthmk1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *stealthmk1* »_my OBD2 Mk2s pump will run any time the key is turned on. The pump in my Mk3 (OBD1) does not work at all. During the course of diagnosing it I will find out the answer and post it up. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

The aux. pump in my mk3 gti vr6 stays on as long as I have the ignition turned on. I can always hear it ticking away. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## cgeromi (Apr 30, 2006)

*Re: (cgeromi)*

I also hear it ticking and hear water flowing when the key is off. The one thread was right when he said turn on and off your ignition then you will hear it. Otherwise, i am assuming if you don't hera anything it's broken...am I correct in saying that?
I have 122K on my original water pump and aux. water pump?
How long do you think I have left on my main pump?


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## sun98gtiVR6 (Jan 7, 2007)

*Re: (cgeromi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cgeromi* »_ Otherwise, i am assuming if you don't hear anything it's broken...am I correct in saying that?


turn the key on then off, if it not running its done








my main water pump was leaking at 112k http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


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## SteveOoooo (Jan 20, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops work ... (VgRt6)*


_Quote »_
In the meantime, I'm going to see if I can track down replacement brushes that will work. If I do, I'll take it apart again and solder them in.


Did anyone find replacement brushes?







They're stamped L47, but that doesn't seem to help my search...







Any alternative?
TIA!


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## SSheikh (Jul 19, 2000)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops work ... (SteveOoooo)*

Somehow I missed Gary's reply at the top of the page until now. Sorry about that. I don't really know if the guy I bought it from knew how used it was. He probably just took it off a car or motor while parting it out.
That is one of the things I have learned the hard way. It pays to just buy the parts that have consumables in them new. The aggravation of having to replace/fix them repeatedly is not worth it. 
Many places have carbon brushes. http://www.graphitestore.com was one place that I posted earlier in this thread. You can view their by sizes there too. But the prices are steep. Many years ago there used to be a Hechinger by my house (at fairfax circle in fairfax va) that used to have a drawer in their hardware dept that had carbon brushes too. But I have not seen them at any other stores.
One alternative is what is being discussed towards the end of this thread. Thanks to me that guy on e-bay started selling them left and right. He's probably wondering why all of a sudden everyone is buying this pump. He sold only 3 when it was at $65. After he jacked up the price to $69 is when I found the auction and posted it in that thread. After that he's been selling them left and right.
I should have started a different thread for the discussion of the alternate pump but what can I say. I'm lazy.
Anyway, waiting for CDJetta to try to make it fit and let us know how it went.


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## SteveOoooo (Jan 20, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops work ... (SSheikh)*

Thanks. $45 for a set of 4 brushes on that web site seems kinda silly... 
For others thinking of checking that motor, you do not need to remove the pump from the car! You don't need to hassle with opening the cooling system, etc... I just pulled the rubber mount off the top, bent open the tabs, viola the top comes right off, allowing access to the brushes. I used loops of fishing string to retract the brushes for reassembly, then cut the loop and pulled the string out, not too hard. One of the brushes was worn way too far, so I flipped it 90 degrees to allow some contact, and bingo the motor does run now. I just need brushes ASAP before I do kill it...
I can find small alternator brushes for like $5-$10 on ebay, thinking of finding the closest match I can, then filing them down to fit. Think that will work?


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## SSheikh (Jul 19, 2000)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops work ... (SteveOoooo)*

Yeah that should work. 
Brushes normally come in different grades of hardness. This is not a high RPM motor so just about any regular carbon brush should work.


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## SSheikh (Jul 19, 2000)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops work ... (SteveOoooo)*

Can anyone that has the motor apart tell me the dimensions of the brush.


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## crapomaticvr6 (Aug 19, 2007)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops working and what y ... (VgRt6)*

You mean you of all people couldnt get the burnt motor to work again? All MacGyver would have needed was some joe blow and a toothpick to fix the old one.







Handy writeup, Would a sign the aux water pump is going out be that it sometimes sounds like a couple of aliens having a conversation? ( thats the only way I can describe the noise it makes after I turn off my car.)


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops work ... (SSheikh)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SSheikh* »_Can anyone that has the motor apart tell me the dimensions of the brush.

IIRC, it's a 5mm x 5mm brush.


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stop ... (crapomaticvr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *crapomaticvr6* »_You mean you of all people couldnt get the burnt motor to work again? All MacGyver would have needed was some joe blow and a toothpick to fix the old one.







Handy writeup, Would a sign the aux water pump is going out be that it sometimes sounds like a couple of aliens having a conversation? ( thats the only way I can describe the noise it makes after I turn off my car.)

LOL. Even Macgyver wouldn't have gotten that mess working!








That noise could be the pump and should be easy to diagnose since it's the only thing running after the engine is shut off.


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## o0bur (Aug 16, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops working and what y ... (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_... Here's what I did to reassemble the motor housing. You can laugh at me for being a dumbass, but it worked and MacGyver would be damn proud. I took two pieces of thread from my wife's sewing machine, looped the thread around the brushes and pulled to retract them, wrapped the thread around the plastic guard for the wiring harness contacts, dropped the upper portion in place, released the tension on the threads and then pulled the threads out. I would have taken pictures, but I could have used more than two hands just to do the reassembly...

Thanks for the write-up - My aux pump crapped out on me, I don't like the idea of hot spots while the engine cools down.. So I tackled this one immediately upon discovery of the problem.. Here are some observations:
Before anything was taken apart I took a Multimeter to the prongs of the motor, and checked for it's initial resistance. I got a reading of 6.2-6.3 ohms. This reading was when the pump wasn't working - so perhaps that can be used as a quick check while everything is still connected in the car to see what condition the brushes and whatnot are in.
Gary - you mentioned about putting the motor back together with string.. I managed to get some shots of the re-assembly.
Here is the picture of the 'threads' as you mentioned - and I did manage to find some sewing thread.. strong stuff!! I'll have to remember that..
















After this it took several attempts to keep the threads on the blocks while trying to position it on, but I did manage within the first few tries to do it, I had it together.
























Ta-Da! Right??
Finally, after all was re-assembled, I took the multimeter back to the leads, and got...








Which leads me to conclude that anything 3 ohms or less means that your pump must be in great shape.. Before the tear down of the little motor I put 12V to the motor, and it wouldn't spin on its own, as soon as I spun the magnet on my own it _then_ started spinning, but roughly. Once done, I tried the same test again, it was very responsive to voltage, as soon as I got contact with 12V it immediately spun to life.
Anywho, thanks for the writeup - DIY ftw imho. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stop ... (VgRt6)*

Gruvenparts has a bracket that may help reduce vibration-related pump failures.
I figure you could always make one yourself with a nice U-bolt of the proper size.
http://www.gruvenparts.com/web...id=60


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## VRdublove (Apr 26, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stop ... (phatvw)*

Nice work Gary! I currently have 3 out of Gruven's 6 parts that are available for my hooptie, I love their stuff. I would also like to be able to buy the other three things! http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif


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## BMAN (Jun 9, 1999)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stop ... (VRdublove)*

I tested mine today with no luck







I'm not getting power to the pump. I removed the harness and turned the ignition on and used a volt meter and get nothing. This is on a 93 Passat VR6 swap into a 90 Jetta. Where should I look first to see what's going on?


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stop ... (BMAN)*

First check to make sure that the fuse is good. If it is, then the fan control module might be bad.


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## BMAN (Jun 9, 1999)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stop ... (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_First check to make sure that the fuse is good. If it is, then the fan control module might be bad.

Does it have its own fuse? meaning does the fuse control anything else?


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stop ... (BMAN)*

For a MKIV, it's on the same fuse as the A/C clutch. Not sure about other cars.


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## BMAN (Jun 9, 1999)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stop ... (VgRt6)*

Thanks anyway http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I will have to check it out tomorrow.


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## BMAN (Jun 9, 1999)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stop ... (BMAN)*

I had a chance to check it today. On my car its fuse #15 which was fine. Let me make sure I'm checking it right? With the car running I remove the harness from the pump and check to see if I get voltage or not? Do I need to hook the meter to both terminal or ground one to the body?


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stop ... (BMAN)*

Turn the ignition on and connect the meter to both terminals on the harness. One is +12v, the other is ground.


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## mikebobelak (Apr 9, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stop ... (VgRt6)*

If you want to ditch the A/C , and fan controller, IE after market fans,....
Do what I did , Rabbit (MK1) 2prong fan switch in the rad. Ground one side, otherside to a relay powering the fans and Aux pump. Works flawlessly, even "runs after" for a few mins. Best thing is its easy to jump the fan switch with a screwdriver after a run down the track,and cool the engine back down a bit.....


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## rabi (Feb 5, 2007)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

The following might be helpful for information on replacement brushes:
http://www.vwwatercooled.org.a...t=563
I looked closely the other day, and I think mine is out of commission; no noise, no vibration, and no leaks either. 
I'll follow up with an update after fixing/reconditioning it.

==============
Follow-up #1 below:
==============
Tested for power at the after-run (aux. water) pump and there was none: the meter reads 0 Volts regardless of ignition/key position. 
Fuse #16 is OK, and the a/c clutch seems to function properly.
I'm unable to check the pump right now (will need to fabricate a custom adapter for direct hookup to the battery).
The car runs perfectly; I've never experienced over/under heating, and the engine always reaches 90 C operating temperature within a few minutes after I start her up. Side note: the ambient temperature here in Montreal can vary from -40 C to + 40 C over the course of the year.

==============
Follow-up #2 below:
==============
Tested the pump by connecting it directly to the battery, and it works fine! Looks like I'll need to trace the wiring and the fan control module. 
For those worrying about not having a working after run pump consider this: In my case, the fans and the a/c work perfectly, and I suspect the fan control module is not faulty. The car never over heats, and doesn't have any other issues either. It runs like the day it was bought new, and I'm now at 170,xxx km. The aux. pump stopped working around 90,xxx km.

_Above was last modified by rabi at 10:43 PM 8-9-2009_

==============
Follow-up #3 below:
==============
After almost 7 years, just updating to say that while working on something else, I found what was the issue in my case, and to share the details so it may help someone else who might also be stumped! 

It was a missing wire in the FCM harness, presumably one of those dealership upgrades for when I had some warranty work done when the car was new. The wire goes from the FCM connector T14/1, to the connector on the side of the battery, inner fender wall, terminal labelled T14a/13. You can get a spare wire with pre-crimped connectors and sealing grommets/inserts from the dealer--the one you need is with a "micro" connector, not the "mini" one. You can insert the wire in the existing connector, no need to replace the harness or the connector. Finally, the pump is alive again.


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## BMAN (Jun 9, 1999)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stop ... (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_Turn the ignition on and connect the meter to both terminals on the harness. One is +12v, the other is ground.

I don't get 12V at the harness







I ran 12V to the pump and it works fine. Anyone know where the two wire go to? When I used the meter on the harness and I only saw 1.8V


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stop ... (BMAN)*

I believe the wires go to the fan control module. It controls the aux pump, A/C and radiator fans.


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## BMAN (Jun 9, 1999)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stop ... (VgRt6)*

I guess I'll just have to leave it the way it is. My a/c stuff has been pulled from the PO so I don't know where to start to look.


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## mikebobelak (Apr 9, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stop ... (BMAN)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BMAN* »_I guess I'll just have to leave it the way it is. My a/c stuff has been pulled from the PO so I don't know where to start to look.

Aux pump is tied into the controller, it should work with the AC pulled. 
Check the connector at the main harness and see if they are corroaded. 
What year is the car?


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## BMAN (Jun 9, 1999)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stop ... (mikebobelak)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mikebobelak* »_
Aux pump is tied into the controller, it should work with the AC pulled. 
Check the connector at the main harness and see if they are corroaded. 
What year is the car? 

Where is the controller located? My car is a 90 Jetta Coupe with a 93 Passat VR6 engine.


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## BMAN (Jun 9, 1999)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stop ... (BMAN)*

Are these the right color wires?










_Modified by BMAN at 5:52 PM 12-23-2007_


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## VR6boRa18 (Apr 5, 2008)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

PM me sumbody who can answer this question. mine is leaking and i hear u can just remove this pump, but is this the aux pump that pumps coolant thru the hose after the engine is turned off to cool it down properly, or what does it do if that isnt it. i want to have as little as possibly in my bay


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## strayjj (Apr 27, 2008)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops working and what y ... (VgRt6)*

help, I have caught the pump leaking before it damaged the motor. I have looked everywhere for a replacement O-ring. Does anybody know where I can get one? Thanks.


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## strayjj (Apr 27, 2008)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops work ... (strayjj)*

ok, after checking NAPA, CarQuest, AutoZone, Advance, Lowes, Homedepot. I finally found it and fixed the problem!
Ace Hardware has the O-ring for .49 plus tax.


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## rigger (Jul 25, 2000)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops work ... (strayjj)*

just wanted to add a little diagnostic help here:
1.
Remove the connector from the aux water pump
2.
Turn on the ignition.
3.
If you check the voltage with a digital voltmeter, you will see no voltage
4.
If you have a 'max' (peak) feature on the digital voltmeter, select that, then you will see it blip to 11v or 12v every 10-15 seconds.
It seems that the controller detects that there is no water pump attached and shuts off the 12v supply. This caused me grief so I thought I'd share.
You can get around the fan controller shutting off the power by rigging in a brake light or turn signal light bulb into the circuit to give it something to detect as a load.
(or just using that light as a tester in the first place, sometimes it's better to keep it simple and go oldschool.)

BTW, it seems that the fan controller keeps 12v to the aux pump after the ignition is off and does not do this 'detection' routine, but only if there was a load when the ignition shut off...


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## rigger (Jul 25, 2000)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops work ...*

Did anyone find any brush replacements that work??
I opened up my pump and all that is wrong with it is the brushes...

thanks!
Jeff.


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## arawak420 (Dec 7, 2004)

*Re: (93SLCyasee)*


_Quote, originally posted by *93SLCyasee* »_My pump currently started to sound like its gargling rocks. Gonna follow this DIY and clean it out as well. 

damn so thats what that noise is on that side. it seems to minimalize when i step on the clutch though. i geuss the impellar is whats making the squeakin noise also. i just replaced the main water pump a couple months ago.
200k on the car.
does it have anything to do with the clutch? cause when i step on the rock in a can sound goes away? is the clutch signaling pressure to the pump? the sound is right at that pump.
can i run the car and pull the power supply to the sec. water pump for a minute to see if that is really where the noise is coming from?
car has been making that noise for far to long... i always thought it was the chain guides.. go figure..


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## rigger (Jul 25, 2000)

*Re: Brushes...*

Ok, I found some brushes that are almost exact matches. The only caviat is that the wire comes off the end instead of the top. I have a set and will try them out when my brushes totally die.
check it out:
RC Car brush: P94
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/c...6&P=V
INCLUDES: Two Epic P-94 brushes
SPECS: 
Length: 7/16" (10mm) 
Width: 3/16" (5mm) 
Height: 3/16" (5mm) 
BTW, they were only $6 canadian... And less online


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: Brushes... (rigger)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## demented_irony (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: Brushes... (VgRt6)*

I received my two sets of the EPIC EP1200 P94-style brushes the other day and installed them into my auxiliary water pump. Holy crap what a nuisance installing the brushes is!







They seem to be an exact match to the original brushes (5x5x10mm). Perhaps being a little longer (15mm?) would be best for optimal length of life. Upon connecting the pump to my power supply, it spun up instantly, and rather noisily; then quieted down to near silence after about 2 minutes. I guess the commutator had to seat itself in the brushes. 
After installing the pump back into my VR6 and jiggle around the connector numerous times, it still works perfectly and moves a healthy amount of coolant around - quite a bit actually.
So to all those with non-working auxiliary water pumps, purchase a set of EPIC EP1200 P94-style brushes. I got both my sets shipped to me for $10 Canadian.








Pic of the brushes:











_Modified by demented_irony at 10:28 PM 1-26-2009_


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## gypsydoctor (Mar 26, 2009)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops working and what y ... (VgRt6)*

I remembered this article and was trying to search for it using "auxiliary water pump". I did not find it: you misspelled auxiliary!


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops ... (gypsydoctor)*

LOL. I hadn't noticed that.







Fixed it.


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## dshuld (May 8, 2009)

*Re: Brushes... (demented_irony)*

This probably a stupid question but, did you clip the ends off? The reason I ask is because they have discontinued this version and have one that says p94 style which does not have the end but still has the same dimensions. The part number is EP1200NT and stock number is LXEWV7.
thanks,
Don


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## qbancoffee (Jun 24, 2009)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops ... (VgRt6)*

About 5000 miles ago I noticed my secondary aux pump wasn't working so one Sunday morning I decided to remove it and tinker with it.
When I began to remove the bottom hose, the impeller housing crumbled in my hand rendering it completely useless. Frustrated because I could not find a repair kit or a pump on a Sunday, I decided to temporarily bypass the aux pump with a $2.00 coupler. This fix was supposed to be for one week at the most but because of time and money it's been a 5k mile fix. 
There are no leaks and the car has not overheated, so I'm pleased.
I'm curious to know if anyone has done this before and with what outcome.


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## Rapid Decompression (Dec 5, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops ... (qbancoffee)*


_Quote, originally posted by *qbancoffee* »_About 5000 miles ago I noticed my secondary aux pump wasn't working so one Sunday morning I decided to remove it and tinker with it.
When I began to remove the bottom hose, the impeller housing crumbled in my hand rendering it completely useless. Frustrated because I could not find a repair kit or a pump on a Sunday, I decided to temporarily bypass the aux pump with a $2.00 coupler. This fix was supposed to be for one week at the most but because of time and money it's been a 5k mile fix. 
There are no leaks and the car has not overheated, so I'm pleased.
I'm curious to know if anyone has done this before and with what outcome.


I am sure the reprocutions of such actions would not be noticed for some time. I am sure it is to prevent a long term problem. VW put these on for a reason.


_Modified by Badboyr66 at 8:32 PM 6-23-2009_


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## cgeromi (Apr 30, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops work ... (strayjj)*


_Quote, originally posted by *strayjj* »_ok, after checking NAPA, CarQuest, AutoZone, Advance, Lowes, Homedepot. I finally found it and fixed the problem!
Ace Hardware has the O-ring for .49 plus tax. 

What is the size or part # of that o-ring by chance...


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## TRUEBELIEVER (Apr 7, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops ... (Badboyr66)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Badboyr66* »_
I am sure the reprocutions of such actions would not be noticed for some time. I am sure it is to prevent a long term problem. VW put these on for a reason.

_Modified by Badboyr66 at 8:32 PM 6-23-2009_

If you have ever noticed, vw actually puts lots of parts on for no reason.


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## LC5P_GLX (Jul 4, 2001)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops ... (TRUEBELIEVER)*

LOL after all this time I've never see this post.
I'll be doing a cleaning soon. I'm not at my car, but I think I have the newer model pump without the tabs on the very first page, mine's bolted. should be easier








another great post by VgRt6 

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## lovr6 (Dec 1, 2008)

*Re: DIY - Why the secondary / auxillary / after-run water pump stops ... (LC5P_GLX)*

Mine is all the contrary..,, i just changed the Fan control module cause wasnt switching the fans on,.. everything is fine now but the electric water pump it wont shut off!!,. i also replaced the temp sensor on the head for a new one , but still running and draining my battery even runs in cold,. everytime. anytime all the time
what may be telling the fan control module to keep it on??


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## lovr6 (Dec 1, 2008)

bump


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (lovr6)*

The EPIC P-94 brushes may have been discontinued and seem to be hard to find. I just bought a set from RCPROCENTER.COM for $2.81 plus $1.99 shipping. Not bad. The link is - http://www.rcprocenter.net/ser...etail.
I'll post if they work.


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

The EPIC brushes worked great. The pump runs as strong as ever. I'll add pics to the original post to show how to replace the brushes.


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## Nik S. (Dec 31, 2002)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

Gary, this is the third writeup you've done that has helped me tremendously with my 01 VR6 GTI. Just did the cleaning procedure last weekend and it worked perfectly. Plenty of life left on the brushes, just caked full of dirt and was only working sporadically. Works perfectly now!
Thank you!!


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (Nik S.)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## cruzad3r (Jan 24, 2007)

*Re: (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_The EPIC P-94 brushes may have been discontinued and seem to be hard to find. I just bought a set from RCPROCENTER.COM for $2.81 plus $1.99 shipping. Not bad. The link is - http://www.rcprocenter.net/ser...etail.
I'll post if they work.

can you please post those pics. thanks


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (cruzad3r)*

I'll have to find where I put them. The replacement procedure is pretty self explanatory. Unsolder the old brushes, solder the new ones.


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## cruzad3r (Jan 24, 2007)

so i pulled the pump, applied 12v to it and i can feel it running. not strong but runs. so i then measured the voltage across the plug connector and most of the time i get about .368v ok so what the hell. i looked at the cables/wires and they look ok. what else can be wrong? i pulled fuse 16 which is a 10A fuse and both my fans turn on. i believed my AC is still good; i can test it when it's not so cold out to confirm. is there a way that i can test the actual switch? i forgot the name but i read that it controls both the fans, ac clutch and this after run coolant pump. 
by the way, this is on a Audi TT 225 but i don't think it's much different then the Jetta. any help is greatly appreciated.


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## VR6TUNER (May 2, 2000)

*Re: (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_The EPIC P-94 brushes may have been discontinued and seem to be hard to find. I just bought a set from RCPROCENTER.COM for $2.81 plus $1.99 shipping. Not bad. The link is - http://www.rcprocenter.net/ser...etail.
I'll post if they work.


The link no longer works but I was able to find them at their new address.
Here it is: 
Trinity Epic P-94 Style Brush No Terminals EP1200NT
http://www.rcprocenterstore.co...etail
Not sure which ones work best so here are the other ones that are P-94 Style
Trinity Epic P-94 Style Brush Dual Terminals EP1200
http://www.rcprocenterstore.co...etail
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Hopefully they won't change the URL again..


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## pgert (Jan 2, 2011)

Just did this! Thanks for another awesome write-up :beer:


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## bonersgolf (Aug 20, 2004)

just wondering does anyone know the flow rate of this water pump in GPM?


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## og triple og (May 25, 2011)

my brother has a 1998 Cadillac catera and his car has from what it looks like to me exact same water pump as my mk3 jetta. I will look into it and if thats a case trip to a junk yard for some extra pumps never hurts  lots of cateras on a salvage yards where im from LOL Maybe this can help someone. Just my 2 cents :thumbup:


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## dsideimpakt (Feb 14, 2012)

I accidentally ordered the wrong aux water pump and the power harness doesnt fit. are these pumps similar enough for me to shave the sides of the connector down with a dremmel to make it fit?


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## samdog (Mar 29, 2010)

We just repaired my son's AFP VR6 Jetta aux pump thanks to this thread. 

After 10 years and 120k miles the pump would occasionally run only when we tapped on it to dislodge the brushes. The resistance would jump around; varying from from 30 ohms to infinity. 

When we got it open, we found it full of carbon dust and the brushes jammed just out of contact with the commutator. The brushes appear to have about 3 to 4 mm of wear left. We blew the dust out, freed up the brushes and held them back with 4 lb test fishing line for reinstall. 

The pump purrs now and I noted that it is powered to run anytime the ignition is on and also for about 8 minutes afterward, in this 2000 Jetta VR6. 

A new aux pump goes for about $250+  

With this repair, our pump may run 5 more years for the total expense of a penny's worth of fishing line. Thanks VgRt6!


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## gvirta (Nov 15, 2005)

*possible brush source*

Found this site this evening >> http://www.carbonbrush.com/automotivebrush.htm

Just ordered a pair of L5-5H ($8 but $7.50 for shipping ). I'll post back how they work...


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## Malkierie504 (Oct 6, 2007)

Just found this thread & shared it with my brother who has a 97 Jetta GLX with a dead auxiliary water pump. We'll be pulling it apart on his next day off when we replace his coolant hoses and main water pump. Wish us luck.


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## masterqaz (Oct 5, 2007)

Nice to sand the commutator as well. Didnt see it stated.


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## gvirta (Nov 15, 2005)

gvirta said:


> Found this site this evening >> http://www.carbonbrush.com/automotivebrush.htm
> 
> Just ordered a pair of L5-5H ($8 but $7.50 for shipping ). I'll post back how they work...


These brushes do indeed work, but are a tad too long. Not a big deal to file em down a little. The wire is also in the correct place. These are a pretty decent deal ($15 all-in). You could order an extra set for $7.50 more in case you screw something up or something.

I ended up cutting the factory brush wires at the brush, then wound the wires from the new brushes around the old and soldered em together. We'll see how it holds up over time.


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## gvirta (Nov 15, 2005)

I also wanted to say thanks for the fishing line idea. I was able to get it together on the first try by putting the electrical connector on the brush holder in a vice (gently), having a helper hold the two fishing lines, then setting the motor down on top of it. I think it's easier if the whole mess with the fishing line and brushes stays still so you can keep tension on the lines more easily.

These new brushes work perfectly (after filing for length) so go order yourself a set or two. If this job took more than an hour total I'd be surprised (just remember to take out your airbox so you can get to the pump).


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## Dblada (Oct 2, 2012)

*HELP!*

My Aux water pump is making some very strange and fast winding sound after I shut the car off.. It will start about 15-30 seconds after I shut it off and it'll go then stop again go and stop again. This **** is annoying and obnoxiously loud. What I'm asking is, if you may know if I need to change my pump or if it could be too much coolant in the system, too hot or anything? I've been working on my cooling system for the past few weeks (due to limited funds) and I'm trying to get this bad boy up and running again. 1997 GTI VR6


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## roix (Oct 13, 2014)

My water pump started to leak badly so I removed it and connected the two hoses it misses the small metal bushing part on the lower portion of the impeller housing also it got a crack in the top part of the impeller housing anyway my question is that I probably wont be able to keep that pump so will it be safe to drive with the hoses connected directly while I am waiting for the part to come (about 2 weeks)??


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## Njegos18t (Jul 31, 2007)

You guys can go to your local junkyard and find these pumps from pretty much any early 90's mercedes-benz, they are much better quality than vw ones. I paid 11 bucks for mine 3 years ago and still works good as new. The only thing you have to do i splice the wires because the connector is not the same.


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## Kenji (Jul 13, 2001)

roix said:


> My water pump started to leak badly so I removed it and connected the two hoses it misses the small metal bushing part on the lower portion of the impeller housing also it got a crack in the top part of the impeller housing anyway my question is that I probably wont be able to keep that pump so will it be safe to drive with the hoses connected directly while I am waiting for the part to come (about 2 weeks)??


As long as you don't take your car to the racetrack (or anywhere else where the pump's after-run capability is truly required to cool down the cylinder head), you should be fine without the pump.


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## TusharGothi (Nov 8, 2019)

Thanks for this DIY. It is not easy to find out graphite products Graphite crucible is available on this website https://www.antslab.in/product/cylindrical-graphite-crucible/


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