# Rear Brake TSB?



## rishsn (Aug 26, 2006)

I went to commonwealth today because i had a problem with my rear brakes after 12000 miles. Literally the rear left break pad had worn down so much that it engraved a circle in the rotor.
After i got them replaced under warranty, i spoke to the tech and he mentioned that there is a TSB. I cant seem to find it anywhere, however he did say that the e brake cable was tightened too much by the manufacturer on most Rabbits. 
If anyone is experiencing the same problem i advise you to take the car straight to the dealership. 
Not sure if this has already been brought up in a previous thread, anyways thought this might help.


_Modified by rishsn at 7:05 PM 7-5-2007_


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## absoluteczech (Sep 13, 2006)

did notice it is kinda tight, but better then it loose ive been in way to many cars that the e brake sucks, plus i dont jack the e brake up super hard.


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## rishsn (Aug 26, 2006)

*Re: (absoluteczech)*


_Quote, originally posted by *absoluteczech* »_did notice it is kinda tight, but better then it loose ive been in way to many cars that the e brake sucks, plus i dont jack the e brake up super hard. 

yeh the one major problem with the ebrake cable being too tight is the rear pads rubbing on the rotor. A few of my friends noticed that the rear pads had worn more than the front.


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## chuckyseal (Nov 1, 2006)

*Re: Rear Break TSB? (rishsn)*

i don't mean to be an a$$ but brakes is spelled "B.R.A.K.E.S.", not BREAKS.


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## Codename-dnb (Jun 18, 2007)

*Re: Rear Break TSB? (chuckyseal)*


_Quote, originally posted by *chuckyseal* »_i don't mean to be an a$$ but brakes is spelled "B.R.A.K.E.S.", not BREAKS.






























why come you b trippin?


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## rishsn (Aug 26, 2006)

*Re: Rear Break TSB? (chuckyseal)*


_Quote, originally posted by *chuckyseal* »_i don't mean to be an a$$ but brakes is spelled "B.R.A.K.E.S.", not BREAKS.

You are an ass just for sayin that


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## JETTSET (Oct 16, 2001)

*Re: Rear Break TSB? (rishsn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rishsn* »_
You are an ass just for sayin that

No he's not. There is a spell checker. If you can't spell then use the tool.


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## rishsn (Aug 26, 2006)

*Re: Rear Break TSB? (JETTSET)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JETTSET* »_No he's not. There is a spell checker. If you can't spell then use the tool.


xcelent contribution to the frum. I bet you have superb articulllation.








...break won't be corrected in spell check. 


_Modified by rishsn at 1:44 AM 6-30-2007_


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## whitehare (Dec 25, 2006)

*Re: (rishsn)*

My Rabbit is almost at 12,000 miles. Every time I wash it I notice there is more brake dust on the rear wheels than the front. Anyone find that TSB yet?


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## magilson (Apr 18, 2005)

*Re: (whitehare)*


_Quote, originally posted by *whitehare* »_My Rabbit is almost at 12,000 miles. Every time I wash it I notice there is more brake dust on the rear wheels than the front. Anyone find that TSB yet?









That's how VW wants it. It keeps the car from nosediving in an emergency and makes for all around better handling... Gotta pay to play, and your going to replace those rears a lot more often than the fronts.


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## QuiescentPlunge (Aug 9, 2006)

*Re: (magilson)*


_Quote, originally posted by *magilson* »_That's how VW wants it.

Yeah but they could've at least vented those things... such tiny rotors.


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## rishsn (Aug 26, 2006)

*Re: (magilson)*


_Quote, originally posted by *magilson* »_That's how VW wants it. It keeps the car from nosediving in an emergency and makes for all around better handling... Gotta pay to play, and your going to replace those rears a lot more often than the fronts.









Interesting, where did you hear that? When i went to the dealership in commonwealth i spoke to one of the techs; he said there is a manufacturing problem. The e brake cable was over tightened, so i went to the service advisor and asked him about the TSB, he said he would print it out no problem. 10 mins later i see him with a piece of paper in his hand talking to someone. Then he approaches me,
Service advisor "Im sorry but that TSB doesnt apply to your car. It was a completely separate problem" 
ummmm are they trying to hide something?


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## BuddyWh (Nov 11, 2006)

*Re: Rear Break TSB? (rishsn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rishsn* »_

xcelent contribution to the frum. I bet you have superb articulllation.








...break won't be corrected in spell check. 

_Modified by rishsn at 1:44 AM 6-30-2007_

No it won't... but it would have been nice. If this thread amounted to something having it appear in searches would keep the search nazi's happy.
Sadly, it doesn't appear there is a BRAKE TSB so no-one will be needing to find this thread in searches...


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: (rishsn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rishsn* »_
Interesting, where did you hear that? When i went to the dealership in commonwealth i spoke to one of the techs; he said there is a manufacturing problem. The e brake cable was over tightened, so i went to the service advisor and asked him about the TSB, he said he would print it out no problem. 10 mins later i see him with a piece of paper in his hand talking to someone. Then he approaches me,
Service advisor "Im sorry but that TSB doesn't apply to your car. It was a completely separate problem" 
ummmm are they trying to hide something? 









Sounds like both are true to me...
My 07 Jetta has this issue at 7000. I will take it in. No grooves yet on the rotor, but it can get loud when first moving. A few yanks on the e-brake, and it tends to get better.
Love to have the TSB to walk in with... If it existed...


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: (07JettaMK5)*

Dropped it off today. I can see the left rear outer pad is gone, and it is just starting to wear the rotor on the outer edges.
After convincing the service adviser i would not wait until Tuesday to drop it off, he finally realized it would be best to get it in now before further damage was done...








I asked him if there was any TSB, and he said he was not sure, but they would let me know after they checked it out.
I hope this goes well.....










_Modified by 07JettaMK5 at 8:33 AM 7-6-2007_


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## rishsn (Aug 26, 2006)

*Re: (07JettaMK5)*

they should replace both rotors and pads under warranty. Dont let them make you pay!! They replaced mine for free.


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: (rishsn)*

Ya, I'm not gonna take anything less. I assume they will also adjust the parking brake as well, or whatever is the cause of this








Also asked about the cd player intermittant static problem. Hope they have a fix for that too. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I'm not really expecting a call untill Monday.


_Modified by 07JettaMK5 at 8:24 PM 7-6-2007_


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: (07JettaMK5)*

Well they just called.
Replaced rear pads and rotors N/C. Parking brake cable was sticking on drivers side. I will see if there is a TSB when i pick it up.
No problem found with the radio though


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: (07JettaMK5)*

No TSB according to the service advisor








I asked if he had seen a lot of this and he said no not really....


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## RobNC (Aug 17, 2005)

*Re: (magilson)*


_Quote, originally posted by *magilson* »_
That's how VW wants it. It keeps the car from nosediving in an emergency and makes for all around better handling... Gotta pay to play, and your going to replace those rears a lot more often than the fronts.









That doesn't make sense to me. The car has to nosedive a little, due to center of gravity above the wheel axle, right? Either case, the rears, if helping more for braking, would slip in that case because of the center of gravity shifting more weight to the front of the car. At least that is what I learned in engineering statics/mechanics class, and inclined plane (coefficient of friction) type of problems.
If the center of gravity of the car is near the axle level, then surely what you're saying makes sense, but I can't believe that the vertical center of gravity is that low in the car.


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## WhattaJetta (Mar 13, 2001)

*Re: Rear Break TSB? (JETTSET)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JETTSET* »_
No he's not. There is a spell checker. If you can't spell then use the tool.

...Except "breaks" is spelled correctly. It's not a context checker, it's only a spell checker.


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## esp (Jun 11, 2007)

Hmmm, my jetta has a very tight e-brake with very little throw....cause for concern?


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: (esp)*

I would certainly keep an eye on the rear pads, and if one side seems to be thinner than the other, get it checked. I suppose you could take it in and just say you think its to tight, and you want it adjusted. Perhaps they would be smart







and just do it ...if it needs it.
I just hit 10,000 mi and i am not sure they made any adjustment. Still smell brake smell more from left rear, but I'm watching it...







And will ask them to recheck it on my service soon.


_Modified by 07JettaMK5 at 12:31 PM 9-2-2007_


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## RobNC (Aug 17, 2005)

*EBrake tight or carrier sticking?*


_Quote, originally posted by *07JettaMK5* »_I would certainly keep an eye on the rear pads, and if one side seems to be thinner than the other, get it checked. I suppose you could take it in and just say you think its to tight, and you want it adjusted. Perhaps they would be smart







and just do it ...if it needs it.
I just hit 10,000 mi and i am not sure they made any adjustment. Still smell brake smell more from left rear, but I'm watching it...







And will ask them to recheck it on my service soon.


Removed my rear pads, and the inners of both sides were worn significantly more than the outers. If the EBrake is sticking or too tight, what are the symptoms? Inner/outer difference sounds to me like the brake caliper carrier is sticking, right?


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## RobNC (Aug 17, 2005)

*EBrake tight or carrier sticking?*


_Quote, originally posted by *07JettaMK5* »_I would certainly keep an eye on the rear pads, and if one side seems to be thinner than the other, get it checked. I suppose you could take it in and just say you think its to tight, and you want it adjusted. Perhaps they would be smart







and just do it ...if it needs it.
I just hit 10,000 mi and i am not sure they made any adjustment. Still smell brake smell more from left rear, but I'm watching it...







And will ask them to recheck it on my service soon.


Removed my rear pads, and the inners of both sides were worn significantly more than the outers. If the EBrake is sticking or too tight, what are the symptoms? Inner/outer difference sounds to me like the brake caliper carrier is sticking, right?


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: EBrake tight or carrier sticking? (RobNC)*

I did not notice much until the brakes started squeaking. At first just a little, then a lot.
The rear calipers have a piston that screws in for adjustment, i don't know much about the system really. 
(post question in the brake forum)
but ...yes, it sounds like one side is not touching the rotor as much as the other. Lube the slides, and look at the piston. If you back it out some, it might help, but check with someone who knows. Dealer did mine.


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## Exton_Dubs (Jul 30, 2006)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (rishsn)*

I had the same problem with my Jetta. They replaced the e-brake, calipers, brakes and rotors. I also called VW since I have been driving with the brakes on for about 9000 miles, less than 20MPG on the highway, and they are giving me a free 10K service. So now I have had a bad ECU, sunroof, and rear brakes. Only eight months in and starting to get worried if there will be anything still working by the time I own it.


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (Exton_Dubs)*








Man on a Wolfie too!!!







That is sad.
I still love mine, just hope i don't start having many problems.
I'm starting to think if the dealer would just take the time to adjust everything right







, the brakes would last longer and I wont need new pads every 20K But... I will learn, and find a way to get it right.










_Modified by 07JettaMK5 at 10:02 PM 9-3-2007_


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## Ohioan (Aug 28, 2007)

*Re: (rishsn)*

Call me stupid but what is TSB? I have a 2007 Jetta 2.5 Wolfs Edition and my back brakes lock up really easy on things like gravel and the abs does not become active??? not sure what the problem is. I called the dealership they said this is normal... VW customer care said its not normal talk to the dealership. I said I did they are no help they said to call them back for an appointment. Mind you the service manager said this was normal. I as well called the local Midas to make sure before I started to get people in trouble that this in deed was not normal. So once I was pretty sure this was not normal I called and filed a complaint about the dealership and made sure that they send a copy of pg 214 of the owners manual that explains how ABS works that wheel lock up should be non existant with ABS.. When I say my back tires lock up I mean I hit the brakes they lock and remain locked until the vehicle comes to a stop. Does anyone have any advise?? thanks in advance for you help!


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## Ohioan (Aug 28, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (Exton_Dubs)*

Exton_Dubs. It sounds like we have the exact same car literally problems and all. I owned the car for 4 days 500 miles the check engine light came on with over 30 trouble codes they said the ECU was bad. Now I'm having the same problems with my brakes that you mentioned. How did you approach this with the dealership?? they seem to think my problem is normal. And advice would be great!!!


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (Ohioan)*

T.S.B = Technical service bulletin http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Unilateral Phase Detractor (Aug 23, 2005)

The rear brakes suck because VW refuses to put enough pad material back there. It's about half as think as the fronts, and like people say, VWs use the back brakes more than most cars to reduce nosedive.


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## Evildcustoms (Jul 14, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (rishsn)*

yeah i got the same issue with mine only i bought my car used wit 14k miles on it, now i got 19k and now RR brake pad left. went to vw dealer and they want almost $700 to fix it cause adjustments are covered only up to 12,000 as well as the brakes. i understand the brakes are not covered, but shouldn't an adjustment be covered since its vw that screwed up witht this one? the brakes didn't even start to squeak till like 18,000 which i thought it was the front so i checked the front and they were fine so i imagined it was just noisy pads








now i am screwed trying to fix brakes and saving up money to have them due the adjustment which they want $168 in labor


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (Evildcustoms)*

yep. Seems like once your past 12,000mi your on your own.


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## RobNC (Aug 17, 2005)

How about retrofit... like perhaps bigger caliper/rotor/pads? A guy at work said that his Nissan Pathfinder didn't need front pads until 90K. That was the front. Rears were drums. So, if we could retrofit that on here, maybe we can sell it back to VW! Oh wait, they want you to get the pads done there. To keep the warranty on the engine and all.


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## Exton_Dubs (Jul 30, 2006)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (07JettaMK5)*

Well I used to work at the dealer before I got tired of seeing all my customers in service all the time, so knowing your service writer is a good place to start. I personally have never had a problem with them but if you are having a problem with your local service department my advice would be to call VW of america directly. Dealers hate that, it makes them look bad. Especially when VW is well aware of ECU, brake, sunroof, and clutch problems with the 2.5 cars. If you had them open a ticket on the car VW will be able to access all your service records and after you call them they will research your case, contact the local dealer, and get back to you within 24 hours with a proposal. This seems to be lost on these boards but if you are very nice and ask them for something to make you happy, they will most likely be more than happy to take care of you instead of having you flame them on the internet. Its a great car, just assembled poorly, tell them how much you love the car but hate the problems and explain to them what was done and said at the dealer and go from there, but remember be nice!


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## Ohioan (Aug 28, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (Exton_Dubs)*

What are some reasonable things to ask for. I've been back and forth with the dealership about many things... first they over charged me by about 600... this was a fee for the car because it came from Michigan. But when I bought the car it was on the lot and the dealership failed to mention this to me. VW said the dealer was in the wrong and offered me 250... wasn't that nice what about the rest of it. So rather then sinking a bunch of money into a lawsuit I took the 250. At any rate I got the new car to take on vacation... the check engine light came on for a misfire so I couldn't even take the car with me. They offered to help pay for a rental how sweet 25 bucks a day.... tell me where you can rent a car for 25 bucks a day. The fee for me being under 25 is that alone. Did customer service give me anything for this inconvenience... nope did I have to take someone elses car on my vacation yes.... did they pay for wear and tear on that persons car... no. I'm sorry but I will never purchase another VW again. And many people at my company LuK USA the company that made the clutches for your cars won't buy from them either... I'm sure they wish they would have helped me. Take 2000 employees times 20,000 for a new car do the math and see how much they are loosing. At any rate what are some suggestions for compensation to me??? Or should I post flyers on all the boards at work? Thanks for the help


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## Exton_Dubs (Jul 30, 2006)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (Ohioan)*

OK then, well I checked the NHTSB website today and there are no open TSB's for the rear brakes. However I did file a safety report for my vehicle so if you have had the same problem you should do the same. There is no reason that a cars rear brakes should fail so early, and if it is a manufacturing defect like I was told I am sure there are lots more MKV's on the road that are having the problem or are not aware of it yet.
Hopefully if enough people take the time to fill out the online form it will be investigated by the government, a recall will be issued, and this problem can be put to bed and those who were told by dealers it is a wear item and not covered under warranty can get there money back.
That is my $.02


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## RobNC (Aug 17, 2005)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (Exton_Dubs)*

Thanks, I did the same. There is absolutely no excuse for the rear pads to wear out so quickly, except for a design FLAW. 
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/ 
Oh did I report that the dealer said the parking brake cannot be adjusted in warranty past 12k. Thanks!








BTW, my car surely needs the parking brake adjust. It's like 1.5 to 2 clicks and I'm already out of free-play!


_Modified by RobNC at 7:45 AM 9-10-2007_


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## Ohioan (Aug 28, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (RobNC)*

just an update, I got my car back today. I told the dealer how my back brake lock up as if they are to tight and that every now and then they smoke(only the back), and that the ABS does not become active when the back brakes lock. They took my car out then they took another car off the lot same make and model and it did the same thing so they say its normal. so... it is either normal or both of these cars are defective which can't be true cause we all know that when a recall comes its only for one car... NOT! At any rate I have no worries now if something happens that my tires lock and I loose control it will be on the dealership and VW and they will have to deal with the lawyers.


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (Exton_Dubs)*

Filed mine http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (07JettaMK5)*

Had my 10K service today and the new pads seem to be fine 10mm thick. 







The tech saw my car and said" whats wrong with the brakes now?" I laughed







I now have about 6 clicks untill the parking brake gets good and tight. I also just bought the Bently manual and found the parking brake adjustment. They reccomend 5 clicks for firm hill hold. Mine looks good now.


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## vwboy308 (Aug 8, 2001)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (rishsn)*

bump


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (vwboy308)*

13K now, and just changed wheels and took a look at the pads... 
Ft pads seem new, very thick! 
Rear pads, definatly show wear, my guess is about 8mm now (down from 10) 
Seems like the 20K mark might be a good life for the rear pads.


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## rishsn (Aug 26, 2006)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (07JettaMK5)*

well i have to say im dissapointed yet again. Im at 16000 and i can hear a subtle screetch from the rears. I looked at the pads and they have worn yet again.


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## dubtayo (Jul 23, 2007)

i wish i would have read this post earlier im at 13k and my rear brakes are grinding and squeeling, im scheduled for an appointment and ill probly have to pay a good amount. what really sucks is i asked them to look at the brakes on my 10k service and they said they looked fine, and i highly doubt in 3k the brakes will go from fine to gone... highly dissapointed with the service. i never had these problems with my MKIV


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## 07bunny (Nov 21, 2007)

*Re: (magilson)*

the reason there is more brake dust on the rear wheels is that the back brakes are the primary brakes and i know this because i asked a tech because i thought my brakes were wearing funny but they werent


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## Projektwo.0 (Aug 6, 2004)

*Re: (07bunny)*

i think you have that reversed..


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: (Projektwo.0)*

just a bit wrong....


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## Subwall (Sep 6, 2006)

*Re: (07JettaMK5)*

I'm going to attempt to make a VERY long story short. 
At 13,300 miles my rear right brake started grinding, badly. I took it to the dealership nearest my house, they looked at it and replaced both rotors, calipers and pads on my rears. no questions asked, they simply said, "Your calipers are sticking." Simple enough. Exactly 13,300 miles later, I had the exact same problem, on the exact same side. i took it to the dealership, sat for 3 hours, they then called me into the service area and showed me that there were no hotspots on my rotor and told me it was normal wear and tear. I went back and forth with the "service" advisor on this for a while. He too tried to tell me rears wear faster than fronts. i attempted to give him a brief lesson on the principles of stopping a body in motion, he wasn't listening. He then told me to leave my car and they would look at it more carefully Monday (this was sat. afternoon) then he asked if I wanted him to call enterprise. I told him to shove it and get me a loaner. So they gave me a jetta and called me back wednesday, not monday, and wanted four-hundred and something bucks to replace my pads. I declined the work, picked my car up and drove straight to just brakes, who in 1 hour was able to determine that I had a serious brake problem, my rear right caliper was sticking and not fully releasing the pads, and that the wear was uneven. I asked them to put this in writing, they did, and I took my car back up to the dealership. I was talking with my "service" advisor again, below is his response to this question:
Me:
"Well, i was just at a brake specialist, they confirmed my rear pads were not worn evenly, as you told me they were. They also told me that my rear right caliper is sticking, as you told me it was not. My question to you is why am I being lied to, and why do you think i'm dumb enough to let you tell me 13,300 miles is normal wear and tear, when you told me yourself my fronts still had 8mm left. I know you say it's normal to go through rear pads faster than fronts, but at this rate I'm going to go through 5 or 6 sets before my fronts are worn, can you explain that?"
"service" advisor:
"Well it depends on driving habits, i mean, you can go through a set of pads in a day if you go to a track day."
I literally could not wipe the dumbfounded look from my face.
Anyway, once I dropped the info from just brakes off with them, they called me 2 hours later and said they were replacing everything, again.
Lesson learned, when this happens again in another 13,300 miles, I'm calling my lawyer and filing lemon law paperwork. i love my car, but this is unacceptable, and the treatment I received at my dealership here recently has been enough to convince me to never buy another VW. if I have to jump through hoops to get them to back a warranted product, they're going to have to do the same before i'll ever back theirs again.
[/rant]


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: (Subwall)*

Nice job!
But so you know, our brakes have what is called rear brake bias. This is so the ft end does not dive when the brakes are used. Rear brakes on our cars will wear out much faster than the front. Look around the forums and read about the rear brake bias. several people with lots of mileage have noted this as well http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif










_Modified by 07JettaMK5 at 9:24 PM 11-23-2007_


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## KEEPitSIMPLE (May 25, 2005)

*Re: (07JettaMK5)*

_Modified by KEEPitSIMPLE at 5:51 PM 8-2-2008_


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: (KEEPitSIMPLE)*























OOO full part # please


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## sk8racer182 (Nov 11, 2007)

*Re: (07JettaMK5)*


_Quote, originally posted by *07JettaMK5* »_
Also asked about the cd player intermittant static problem. Hope they have a fix for that too. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I'm not really expecting a call untill Monday.
_Modified by 07JettaMK5 at 8:24 PM 7-6-2007_

Really... i have the same problem, i cant figure out whats wrong its only happend about 3 times in the past couple of months, i have thought of bringing it in????


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: (sk8racer182)*

I still have that problem, only happened a few times though lately.
wish the coud get this one fixed.


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## dubtayo (Jul 23, 2007)

thats funny exact same thing happened to me 13300 miles and they refused to replace the brakes under warranty even though they said that my brakes were good when i went in at my 10k check up. so i paid the 430 and im filing a complaint with VWOA and gunna try and get the service advisor fired in addition to getting my money back. the service advisors are very rude and dont care that dozens of other people are having the exact same problems with the 2.5l models. but ya everyone file the complaint at that website nhlsa* so we can get a recall.


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## sl33pyb (Jan 15, 2007)

*Re: (Subwall)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Subwall* »_I'm going to attempt to make a VERY long story short. 
At 13,300 miles my rear right brake started grinding, badly. I took it to the dealership nearest my house, they looked at it and replaced both rotors, calipers and pads on my rears. no questions asked, they simply said, "Your calipers are sticking." Simple enough. Exactly 13,300 miles later, I had the exact same problem, on the exact same side. i took it to the dealership, sat for 3 hours, they then called me into the service area and showed me that there were no hotspots on my rotor and told me it was normal wear and tear. I went back and forth with the "service" advisor on this for a while. He too tried to tell me rears wear faster than fronts. i attempted to give him a brief lesson on the principles of stopping a body in motion, he wasn't listening. He then told me to leave my car and they would look at it more carefully Monday (this was sat. afternoon) then he asked if I wanted him to call enterprise. I told him to shove it and get me a loaner. So they gave me a jetta and called me back wednesday, not monday, and wanted four-hundred and something bucks to replace my pads. I declined the work, picked my car up and drove straight to just brakes, who in 1 hour was able to determine that I had a serious brake problem, my rear right caliper was sticking and not fully releasing the pads, and that the wear was uneven. I asked them to put this in writing, they did, and I took my car back up to the dealership. I was talking with my "service" advisor again, below is his response to this question:
Me:
"Well, i was just at a brake specialist, they confirmed my rear pads were not worn evenly, as you told me they were. They also told me that my rear right caliper is sticking, as you told me it was not. My question to you is why am I being lied to, and why do you think i'm dumb enough to let you tell me 13,300 miles is normal wear and tear, when you told me yourself my fronts still had 8mm left. I know you say it's normal to go through rear pads faster than fronts, but at this rate I'm going to go through 5 or 6 sets before my fronts are worn, can you explain that?"
"service" advisor:
"Well it depends on driving habits, i mean, you can go through a set of pads in a day if you go to a track day."
I literally could not wipe the dumbfounded look from my face.
Anyway, once I dropped the info from just brakes off with them, they called me 2 hours later and said they were replacing everything, again.
Lesson learned, when this happens again in another 13,300 miles, I'm calling my lawyer and filing lemon law paperwork. i love my car, but this is unacceptable, and the treatment I received at my dealership here recently has been enough to convince me to never buy another VW. if I have to jump through hoops to get them to back a warranted product, they're going to have to do the same before i'll ever back theirs again.
[/rant] 


i have had the same exact problem. i just ordered a new set of rotors and calipers. im going to cancel the order and talk to the dealer....this is sooo annoying.


----------



## pete643 (Apr 23, 2003)

Pads wearing out isn't something the NHTSB is going to look at as a safety problem. All cars wear out pads, with the same end result. Why would the NHTSB care about the mileage this happpens? The wouldn't. If you had hydraulic problems, ABS problems, etc., then yes. But not worn pads.


----------



## sk8racer182 (Nov 11, 2007)

I is a safety problem because your pads go before you can even bring it in for service.


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## pezzy84 (Apr 12, 2003)

*Re: (sk8racer182)*

Luckily I have dodged this issue (knock on wood) with my MKIV Golf and my MKV Jetta. This was a common complaint on the MKIV and now the MKV. 
~70k miles on my '03 Golf and was still on original pads front and rear. 30k now on my Jetta and on original pads. Rears look like they may go another 25-30k miles - fronts will probably last long after I trade out of the car. 
Now soft touch interior parts are another story. I am on my 3rd replacement headunit and am about to go on my 3rd driver window switch module. The stupid MF paint keeps bubbling and peeling. No mechanical problems (knock on wood again).


----------



## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: (pezzy84)*

My window switches are almost gone on the drivers side too





















Have not had them replaced yet. 
I would hope they can replace with the 08 series without soft touch or whatever is peeling.






















I assume the two parts have the same fit?


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## sk8racer182 (Nov 11, 2007)

Just got back from the dealer... they replaced the rear pads under warranty and adjusted the ebrake (probably only because i told them about the issue) so anyone else that has been having break issues i advise making an appointment to get your ebrake checked, its probably overtightened. Also just got off of the phone with vwoa they claimed they were not aware of the issue but documented it so hopefully if everyone keeps calling they will issue a recall so people stop getting screwed over.


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## tspielman (Jun 25, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (rishsn)*

ok lets start by saying...dont take VWoA or your dealers ****!...
my back brakes went at 12500 this pair is gone at 23200....
iam sick and tired of being screwed! whos with me? iam starting a lawsuit against vw. i have had multiple issues with my car. and its a p.o.s! 
if you want in drop me a email [email protected]


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## grumblebunny (Dec 1, 2006)

*Re: (RobNC)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RobNC* »_That doesn't make sense to me. The car has to nosedive a little, due to center of gravity above the wheel axle, right? Either case, the rears, if helping more for braking, would slip in that case because of the center of gravity shifting more weight to the front of the car. At least that is what I learned in engineering statics/mechanics class, and inclined plane (coefficient of friction) type of problems.
If the center of gravity of the car is near the axle level, then surely what you're saying makes sense, but I can't believe that the vertical center of gravity is that low in the car.

I agree. This has been bugging me for a while. When you apply the brakes, the weight transfers to the front: Newton's first law (maybe the third as well). That's why the front discs are larger and ventilated. The front brakes get hotter because they have to work harder. Using the rear brakes "more" than the front brakes will cause the rear wheels to lock. And the nose is going to dive anyway because the weight of the car is going to transfer to the front.
There is a lot of anecdotal evidence out there about the rear brake bias in VWs. But I don't buy it yet. If an actual VW tech can tell me with a straight face that VW specifically designed the brakes to use the rears more than the fronts (and can reference documentation that I can read) I'll consider it. But I'll also ask them how VW found a way to circumvent the laws of physics


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## RobNC (Aug 17, 2005)

I asked the dealer about the parking brake sticking, and having to replace the rears at 20k. The service advisor said (paraphrased) that it is not unexpected to have to replace the rear pads 2-3 times before the fronts have to be replaced, because 70% of the braking comes from the rear. So, sounds like Mr. German Engineering undersized the rear pads, clearly.
What made me laugh was a rebate offer from VW I saw by the service advisor's desk. "You're eligible for a $50 rebate if you've had your brake pads replaced by the dealer..." Nice fix. Just throw money at the problem.


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## RobNC (Aug 17, 2005)

*physics - yuck!*


_Quote, originally posted by *grumblebunny* »_I agree. This has been bugging me for a while. When you apply the brakes, the weight transfers to the front: Newton's first law (maybe the third as well). That's why the front discs are larger and ventilated. The front brakes get hotter because they have to work harder. Using the rear brakes "more" than the front brakes will cause the rear wheels to lock. And the nose is going to dive anyway because the weight of the car is going to transfer to the front.
There is a lot of anecdotal evidence out there about the rear brake bias in VWs. But I don't buy it yet. If an actual VW tech can tell me with a straight face that VW specifically designed the brakes to use the rears more than the fronts (and can reference documentation that I can read) I'll consider it. But I'll also ask them how VW found a way to circumvent the laws of physics.

There isn't a way to circumvent the force from the center of gravity towards the front of the car (when braking). Perhaps in VWs, the center of gravity of the car is significantly lower than the center axle (i.e., near the ground). That would cause more force towards the rear wheels than a car with a higher center of mass (i.e., SUV) and thus more applied braking effort towards the rear.
I'll believe that there might be more effort in the rear than the rear of Japanese FWD cars, but I cannot believe there is actually MORE braking effort in the back than the front. Not unless you're towing a yacht with a lot of tongue weight!! An easy way to see this would be to somehow measure the force of the wheels on the ground during hard braking. If the rear wheels are exerting more force on the ground than the front, then they're right.
Or, perhaps another experiment would be to (DO NOT TRY THIS!!) disable the rear brakes via some kind of solid block (so the piston won't move) on each side. Then measure the 60-0 braking distance. Then restore the brake system, and re-measure the 60-0 braking distance. If it is significantly different, then we need to think about this a bit more.
Perhaps there's some kind of torque induced by the suspension that causes more force to be applied to the rear wheels to prohibit nosediving. If true, that would explain this as the more pressure applied between the pavement and wheels during braking, the more braking effort could be applied before slipping. This seems contradictory to logic but indeed ridged rubber doesn't behave like a typical inclined plane problem due to gripping action of the tires into the pavement (by deformation into irregularities due to weight). Indeed, this doesn't explain the "70% of braking occurs from the rear" supposition though.



_Modified by RobNC at 2:15 PM 12-19-2007_


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: physics - yuck! (RobNC)*

Its not that the rears brake more than the fronts in absolute terms, rather that the
rear brake proportion is higher on this car than would be ideal for maximum pad
life and deceleration performance.
In fact, the static brake stats based on piston diameter, rotor diamter, pad cF, etc
give a static brake bias of about 68% front, 32% rear according to
http://www.ecstuning.com:








But that does not give the dynamic brake bias when you have weight transfer to the front axle under deceleration.
Why does VW set up the car this way? Its actually quite simple:
Consider the car's weight distribution when there is one driver. ~67% front, 33%
rear. Now consider the weight distribution with 5 people and a full load of luggage
in the trunk: ~60% front 40% rear. What changed? More rear weight bias.
The brake system is optimized around he FULL load scenario. If you drove with a
full load all the time, then you would have much more even pad wear. Of course
with more weight, both front and rear pads would wear quicker. Ask any trucker
about that one! The OEM pads are not the greatest for longevity, but you can
always upgrade to aftermarket.
Now VW claims to have EBD (electronic brake force distribution) which should
account for all this. But apparently it doesn't. Presumably, a software update to the
ABS/EBD controller _could_ fix this. But a much simpler way is to put Hawk HPS
pads on the front axle (0.42 cF vs 0.32 cF) - that will shift the brake bias forward
and actually wear the rear pads less - sounds counterintuitive, but it works.
Also, to prevent the rear calipers from sticking, you can install an auxilliary return
spring. Costs all of $5. Click pic for more info. Or just order the parts and install
em yourself if your calipers are mising them:
left spring: 1K0-615-295
right spring: 1K0-615-296

Yes VW should fix their ****. blah blah blah. But I thought this forum was for DIY
folks, not for whiners


----------



## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: physics - yuck! (phatvw)*

Nice informative post! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I think i will see if i have the springs now, and if not, the dealer might want to give them to me to save them in the long run.


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## vr_vento95 (Nov 26, 2004)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (rishsn)*

This really sucks. I brought my bunny in for an oil change (25K) and asked the dealer to check my rear brakes they have been squeking for like the past 800 miles, turns out it's metal to metal in the rear.







So I talked to my friend who works in the parts dept and got him to hook me up with 2 rear rotors and a set of OEM pads for cost. He also told me I was very lucky to have made it that long without replacing them it's usually between 10-15K. Second he confirmed it is more rear brake bias to keep the car more stable in emergency braking situations and to avoid the "noisedive" effect of other cars which are more front bias. After being told they wanted $170 in labor just for doing the brakes I told the service advisor to do the oil change and put the parts in my car cause my buddy has a lift and I can just put them on myself. After all that it took 4 1/2 hours and still cost $300 for an oil change, 2 rear rotors and a set of pads.







They truly are stealerships







I will be talking to VWOA about this


_Modified by vr_vento95 at 8:49 PM 12-28-2007_


----------



## dubtayo (Jul 23, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (vr_vento95)*

I feel your pain it just cost me $460 just for rear rotors at 13k only 1k out of the wear and tear warranty. and at my 10k check up the service advisor told me my breaks and rotors were perfect condition, yeah right and in 3k i managed to wear them down to metal. so he misinformed me on the 10k service probly from lack of care or not wanting to perform warranty work. and 1k out of my warranty im riding on metal. Yeah VWOA got a nice call on that and im still waiting to get my response. Hoping for at least 50% of my money back if not all since this was not my fault and could have been avoided if the correct assesment was made on my 10k service. 
Honestly its not the cars, i love em', its the people, if you find a good dealership just continue to go to it and be nice to the service advisors so they will take care of you.


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## meaculpa1 (Jul 10, 2007)

I just contacted it the ttp://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/ 
hoping for a recall now


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## Seanathan (May 1, 2002)

*Re: (l9bi7)*

My folks Jetta had the same issue. I had to talk to the Master Tech a few times over the phone from Arizona (to Massachusetts). They wouldn't fix it under warranty because they didn't bring the car there to have the first oil change done (my father did it himself). Absolutely Bullsh**. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 


_Modified by Seanathan at 11:04 PM 12-31-2007_


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## Seanathan (May 1, 2002)

*Re: (grumblebunny)*


_Quote, originally posted by *grumblebunny* »_
I agree. This has been bugging me for a while. When you apply the brakes, the weight transfers to the front: Newton's first law (maybe the third as well). That's why the front discs are larger and ventilated. The front brakes get hotter because they have to work harder. Using the rear brakes "more" than the front brakes will cause the rear wheels to lock. And the nose is going to dive anyway because the weight of the car is going to transfer to the front.
There is a lot of anecdotal evidence out there about the rear brake bias in VWs. But I don't buy it yet. If an actual VW tech can tell me with a straight face that VW specifically designed the brakes to use the rears more than the fronts (and can reference documentation that I can read) I'll consider it. But I'll also ask them how VW found a way to circumvent the laws of physics










Theres a magical little thing called ABS that changes the bias on the car. Thus the cars are rear brake bias







ABS can change the clamping force on each caliper that its setup for. The laws of physics have nothing to do with ABS clamping pressure.










_Modified by Seanathan at 11:21 PM 12-31-2007_


----------



## RobNC (Aug 17, 2005)

*Real Physics of braking and biasing*


_Quote, originally posted by *Seanathan* »_Theres a magical little thing called ABS that changes the bias on the car. Thus the cars are rear brake bias







ABS can change the clamping force on each caliper that its setup for. The laws of physics have nothing to do with ABS clamping pressure.

ABS cannot, in and of itself, change the bias of the car. It can only do this once slippage has occurred, which I truly hope isn't all the time (or you'll be replacing pads about every 5k or if you're a track person). Bias is something that is controlled by the brake system design. When the braking effort exceeds the capacity of the tires, ABS and TCS kick in to compensate (for what one person said regarding braking a fully-loaded car), and that would change the bias of the braking (by brake pressure modulation of slipping tires).
I think this URL:http://www.stoptech.com/tech_i...shtml explains a lot regarding bias, and why the front brakes should be braking more than the rear.
A good example that should put this to rest is the following. Try braking your car with your parking brake alone. That is your rear brake, ONLY! Now, try braking with your foot brake. If there is a significant difference in stopping speed, then you see why the front brakes on all front-engine cars do the majority of the braking. Granted, it might be possible that during light braking, the rear brakes are applied with more stopping force than the front, but this cannot continue obviously, as the rears would start slipping, then ABS kicks in to unlock the rears, and then consequently the front brake pads would have to bear more of the brake burden than the rears (due to the rears being beyond their braking capacity).
Note on the URL above, it specifies a 2001 Audi S4, and how rear bias makes the car unstable. This is true, but this would imply that the rear does more than the front. Everyone here I believe has been talking about rear bias in regards to more rear braking effort is applied than other cars of the same family (other auto makers, like Japanese). It is possible that there are two or more stages of braking, in which case initial brake pressure applies most of the pressure to the rear. This URL shows that:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_i...shtml 
On that same website, there are some very useful white papers: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_i...shtml especially the one "The Physics of Braking Systems". It states, under the "Dynamic Impacts of Vehicles Experiencing Deceleration" section, "Whenever a vehicle experiences a deceleration, the effective normal force (again, more
commonly referred to as weight) reacted at the four corners of the vehicle will change. While the total vehicle normal force remains constant, the front axle normal force during a deceleration event will increase while the rear axle normal force will decrease by the same amount."
Happy '08!


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: Real Physics of braking and biasing (RobNC)*

Seanathan, I think what you're thinking of is a particular kind of EBD (electronic brake force distribution). This system uses ABS wheel speed sensors to optimize dynamic brake force i.e. brake bias. Usually it works the same as ABS - after skidding occurs. Regular abs is just an on-off switch - it pulses the brake pressure to gain traction. EBD uses a more complex computer model to vary the pressure on each brake continuously rather than on/off.
In theory, you can vary this pressure BEFORE tire skidding even occurs. In racing, this is called threshold braking. Based on a dynamic model of the car, and learned values (rain, tire friction, etc.) you should be able to vary the pressure to achieve ~optimal braking without ever skidding. The system would have to be well tuned to the tires, vehicle weight, etc. Any change would require some kind of learning AI to re-optimize the system, or several max deceleration ABS events to re-set key parameters.



_Modified by phatvw at 11:33 AM 1-1-2008_


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## KEEPitSIMPLE (May 25, 2005)

*Re: Real Physics of braking and biasing (phatvw)*

Look at the e-brake cable were its mounted to the suspension. Its a hard mount not allowing the cable to move freely. so every time you go over the bump it pulls alittle bit. try taken that mount out and fabricating something to hold it loosely. it worked on my car. don;t think so into it with ABS and brake bias.
KEEP IT SIMPLE


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## RobNC (Aug 17, 2005)

*Re: Real Physics of braking and biasing (KEEPitSIMPLE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KEEPitSIMPLE* »_Look at the e-brake cable where it's mounted to the suspension. It's a hard mount not allowing the cable to move freely, so every time you go over a bump it pulls a little bit. Try taking that mount out and fabricating something to hold it loosely. it worked on my car.
KEEP IT SIMPLE

Photos, please







Thanks a lot! I don't go over a lot of bumps but I think I can understand what you're saying here.


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## RobNC (Aug 17, 2005)

*Re: physics - yuck! (phatvw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *phatvw* »_ [SNIP]Now VW claims to have EBD (electronic brake force distribution) which should account for all this. But apparently it doesn't. Presumably, a software update to the ABS/EBD controller _could_ fix this. But a much simpler way is to put Hawk HPS pads on the front axle (0.42 cF vs 0.32 cF) - that will shift the brake bias forward and actually wear the rear pads less - sounds counterintuitive, but it works.
Also, to prevent the rear calipers from sticking, you can install an auxiliary return spring. Costs all of $5. Click pic for more info. Or just order the parts and install em yourself if your calipers are mising them:
left spring: 1K0-615-295 right spring: 1K0-615-296 

Great information! Could you confirm that this for the MkV can use that? According to the link to the original thread, "_... there is a spring that attaches from a plate at the rear of the caliper to the little arm the parking brake cable attaches to. my calipers are 1999-2000 mark4 rebuilds,they do not have this spring. some guy in the canadian parts classifieds posted a pic of 2004 mark4 calipers and there is a spring on the back of them. so this might be a solution to the sticking caliper issue were having."_
That tells me that this is the fix for MkV but I am not convinced that the MkIV brakes are anything like MkV. I think I posted some links to the pics in the FAQs, if you're interested.
MODIFIED: note the MkV already *HAS* the brake spring. D'oh... check out THIS POST.


_Modified by RobNC at 7:50 AM 1-4-2008_


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## grumblebunny (Dec 1, 2006)

*Re: Real Physics of braking and biasing (RobNC)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RobNC* »_ABS cannot, in and of itself, change the bias of the car. 
[snip...]


True.


_Quote, originally posted by *RobNC* »_[snip...]
A good example that should put this to rest is the following. Try braking your car with your parking brake alone. That is your rear brake, ONLY! Now, try braking with your foot brake. If there is a significant difference in stopping speed, then you see why the front brakes on all front-engine cars do the majority of the braking. 
[snip...]

I agree (mostly). Though It's not specifically a question of where the engine sits or which wheels are the driven wheels. The Lotus Elise is a mid engine car and the front brakes are (or at least were) 344mm in front and 330mm in the rear. The beefier brakes go on the front of the car. My old Miata (front engine, rear drive, 50%/50% weight split) had the 254.8mm ventilated rotors in front and solid 250mm rotors in the back.

_Quote, originally posted by *RobNC* »_[snip...]
On that same website, there are some very useful white papers: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_i...shtml especially the one "The Physics of Braking Systems". It states, under the "Dynamic Impacts of Vehicles Experiencing Deceleration" section, "Whenever a vehicle experiences a deceleration, the effective normal force (again, more
commonly referred to as weight) reacted at the four corners of the vehicle will change. While the total vehicle normal force remains constant, the front axle normal force during a deceleration event will increase while the rear axle normal force will decrease by the same amount."
[snip...]


You and your physics








Edit: Oh, and when you brake with your parking brake, you should still notice that you have some nosedive http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 



_Modified by grumblebunny at 12:41 PM 1-4-2008_


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## aqn (Nov 20, 2001)

Simple physics: in _*any*_ car, the front brakes do most of the work. Period. End of
discussion. In FWD cars such as the VWs in question, where _static_ weight distribution is
around 62% front 38% rear, that is even more true. *Even if* only the rear brakes are
used, there will still be weight transfer to the front, as already pointed out. There is
*nothing* that can be done with the brakes or the brake hydraulic system that will
prevent weight transferring to the front under braking.
Since the rear brakes do much less work and therefore would lock up if given the same amount of
hydraulic pressure as the front brakes, in the Bad Old Days, cars have a brake bias mechanism to
ensure the rear brakes get less hydraulic pressure than the front. As recently as 1995, the GTI
VR6 had a mechanical brake bias adjuster that is attached to the rear suspension's torsion beam and
is actuated by a linkage arm attached the underbody. As the brakes is applied and the front of the
car dives and the rear rises, the linakge arm moves the bias valve which reduces hydraulic pressure
to the rear brakes.
These days, brake biasing is handled electronically either by the ABS, or by the EBD, which BTW, is
simply a marketing term for a form of ABS where each brake is controlled independently, as opposed
to brakes on one axle being controlled together.
There is no amount of fiddling with the brakes that will prevent nose dive under braking. When you
grab the brakes, the decceleration transfers the car's weight to the front. It's as simple as that,
and there is no way around it.
Now, that the front brakes handle most of the stopping chore does not preclude the rear brake pads
from wearing faster than the front ones, or from wearing unevenly. They might, for any number of
reasons: poorly adjusted emergency brake that is too tight; the pin in the single-action caliper
sticking and causing pad on one side of the rotor to wear more or less than the pad on the other
side; malfunctioning ABS/EBD that refuses to ease up on hydraulic pressure; etc.
"VWs use the rear brakes more" or "VW does this to prevent nose dive under braking" are just flat wrong.


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (aqn)*

My god, I learned something useful on Vortex!
So, what about the pad compound? Is it the same FT and Rear? 
There just seems to be so many people with rear brakes wearing out at 15-20k, I wonder if there is another issue.







like the ABS malfunction, or improper slide pin lubing at the factory. Any other ideas on what to consider?
Thanks for this intelligent discussion http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (aqn)*


_Quote, originally posted by *aqn* »_
These days, brake biasing is handled electronically either by the ABS, or by the EBD, which BTW, is
simply a marketing term for a form of ABS where each brake is controlled independently, as opposed
to brakes on one axle being controlled together.


aqn, EBD (electronic brake force distribution) actually refers to the ability of the ABS controller to vary the hydraulic pressure continuously rather than as an on-off switch. What you're thinking of is 4-channel ABS which is an evolution of the older 2-channel and 3-channel ABS. The MkIV cars had 4-channel ABS - i.e. they could control each of the four brakes independently, but they could only do so as an on/off switch. The MkV cars, in theory, can vary the hydraulic pressure continuously which should allow the brake force to remain at its peak longer rather than oscillating well above and below skid threshold.
A disadvantage of relying on ABS for brake biasing is that you have to skid first! So if you never brake hard enough, you never get ideal brake bias. That is a contributing factor to why one axle wears faster than the other

edit: re MkIV
MkIV has 4 ABS wheel speed sensors so it can detect when one wheel skids and others do not - but I'm not actually sure if it can brake an individual rear wheel. I know it can brake an individual front wheel, at least in cars with the electronic differential lock program, but I have never seen evidence that it ever brakes an individual rear wheel. Hmmm time to brake out the VAG-COM and record wheels speeds and steering angles while drifting on snow










_Modified by phatvw at 1:48 PM 1-6-2008_


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## dubtayo (Jul 23, 2007)

hey just wanted to let everyone know that VWOA just issued me a full refund on my brakes and rotors parts and labor ($460). Good luck with all of your complaints you can get them to help you out if you're nice and persistent. Just dont go cursing anyone out and they will try to help you out. 
Once again good luck peoples


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: (dubtayo)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif







As it should be!
Well done!


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## Servo888 (Feb 25, 2007)

My rear pads smelled terrible on a couple occasions as I arrived to work... On one occasion I kept stalling constantly due to the drag. When I took her in for the 5,000 mile over priced oil change, I told them about it. They officially said that there was nothing wrong; but that "after doing a service these little things tend to work themselves out". Sure enough that SOB drove wonderfully, and I have yet to experience any more drag / smells. 
My conspiracy side makes me think there might be some cover up going on. hehe. Oh well, my car is driving super, I don't care!


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## Doc2Be (Jul 10, 2007)

*Re: (Servo888)*

Funny you should say that.....I was in for my 5k mile oil change a couple of months ago, and up until that point, my rear wheels always accumulated a significant amount of brake dust as compared to the front wheels; to the point where about a week or so after I washed my car, the front wheels would still be pretty clean and my back wheels would be black. I brought my car in this way. I mentioned this to the service tech, who assured me there was nothing wrong with my brakes and this was "normal." Anyways, ever since then, my fronts have been collecting thier normal amount of dust but the backs have been collecting virtually none, at least as compared to before, and my parking break isn't as tight as before.
The service order shows the oil change and the headlight recall, but no adjustment of the rear brakes or parking brake. A week later I called the service department and asked them if they adjusted my rear brakes, which they denied.







I'll probably mention something to the service tech during my next oil change.


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## Rocco Sifredi (Jan 22, 2007)

*Re: (Doc2Be)*

I don't think adjusting E-brake cables are part of regular service unless there is a problem with the rear brakes, to adjust the cables you have to take apart the rear center consol area, 
but anyways we have a Rabbit in our dealership with this same problem there is no TSB yet, but we are investigating this problem, 
MK4's had a similar problem but it was not the E-brake holding up, but the Pad binding or sticking on the caliper carrier caused by I think to much heat expanding the metals or Pads fitting to tight on the caliper carrier, I had a few times on a MK4 that I would take the caliper right off and the pads still on the carrier and I could not spin the rotor, and I would have to pry them out with allot of effort, For the MK5's I think Its something with the E-brake's but I'll keep you all posted


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## thecarp (Aug 8, 2007)

ummm, for a retard like me, what does tsb stand for? and for Doc2Be, yea i noticed the same thing on my jetta.


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (07JettaMK5)*


_Quote, originally posted by *07JettaMK5* »_T.S.B = Technical service bulletin http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## someguyfromMaryland (Feb 19, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (07JettaMK5)*

I normally enjoy just lurking and watching the sparks fly, but one thing posted earlier on this thread needs mentioning. Pulling up on the e-brake handle does not show you how the disc brakes on your rear wheels would stop your call by themselves. It shows you how the little brake shoes inside the little brake drum on the rear rotor will stop the car. Do this too many times and you'll be metal on metal on the e-brake and in need of new shoes. If you use your e-brake properly and don't perform bootleg 180s (if you don't know, don't ask), the e-brake can last the life of the car. 
Back to my lurkdom.


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## RobNC (Aug 17, 2005)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (someguyfromMaryland)*


_Quote, originally posted by *someguyfromMaryland* »_I normally enjoy just lurking and watching the sparks fly, but one thing posted earlier on this thread needs mentioning. Pulling up on the e-brake handle does not show you how the disc brakes on your rear wheels would stop your call by themselves. It shows you how the little brake shoes inside the little brake drum on the rear rotor will stop the car. Do this too many times and you'll be metal on metal on the e-brake and in need of new shoes. If you use your e-brake properly and don't perform bootleg 180s (if you don't know, don't ask), the e-brake can last the life of the car. 


FYI, the rears on the 2.5L engine are all disc, not drum (unless I'm mistaken). As you state, they provide very little braking effort to stop your car. But, if you have a failure of hydraulic pressure that can't be corrected by pumping the brakes, then the e-brake is your only alternative. It is amazing how much longer it takes to brake with the e-brake than when the fronts are also used.
However, I think it's a good idea to use the e-brake before putting into park. Takes the tension off the differential, driveshaft, and transmission output shaft, and can possibly save wear on the shaft bushings, if I understand transmissions correctly.


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## o6platg2pernt5 (Dec 29, 2006)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (RobNC)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RobNC* »_
FYI, the rears on the 2.5L engine are all disc, not drum (unless I'm mistaken). As you state, they provide very little braking effort to stop your car. But, if you have a failure of hydraulic pressure that can't be corrected by pumping the brakes, then the e-brake is your only alternative. It is amazing how much longer it takes to brake with the e-brake than when the fronts are also used.
However, I think it's a good idea to use the e-brake before putting into park. Takes the tension off the differential, driveshaft, and transmission output shaft, and can possibly save wear on the shaft bushings, if I understand transmissions correctly.


Your not mistaken the rear brakes on the mkv's are disc. While I dont know this for sure, I think he is saying that the rear braking system is like the older chryslers setup. Some chryslers, and specifically the LH series had rear rotors, and the actuall hub of the rotor served as a housing for a small drum brake system. That system served as the parking brake system I really don't think we have this kind of system, but hey I haven't taken th rear rotor off before.


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (o6platg2pernt5)*

NINE>>>>>WE DONT








( I do have them on my chevy astro van)
07 rear set up...








Lurking is good....










_Modified by 07JettaMK5 at 2:59 PM 1-19-2008_


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: Real Physics of braking and biasing (KEEPitSIMPLE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KEEPitSIMPLE* »_Look at the e-brake cable were its mounted to the suspension. Its a hard mount not allowing the cable to move freely. so every time you go over the bump it pulls alittle bit. try taken that mount out and fabricating something to hold it loosely. it worked on my car. don;t think so into it with ABS and brake bias.
KEEP IT SIMPLE


I'd Still like to hear more about this Idea???






















Anyone else try this?


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## RobNC (Aug 17, 2005)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (someguyfromMaryland)*


_Quote, originally posted by *someguyfromMaryland* »_I normally enjoy just lurking and watching the sparks fly, but one thing posted earlier on this thread needs mentioning. Pulling up on the e-brake handle does not show you how the disc brakes on your rear wheels would stop your call by themselves. It shows you how the little brake shoes inside the little brake drum on the rear rotor will stop the car. Do this too many times and you'll be metal on metal on the e-brake and in need of new shoes. If you use your e-brake properly and don't perform bootleg 180s (if you don't know, don't ask), the e-brake can last the life of the car. 


FYI, the rears on the 2.5L engine are all disc, not drum (unless I'm mistaken). As you state, they provide very little braking effort to stop your car. But, if you have a failure of hydraulic pressure that can't be corrected by pumping the brakes, then the e-brake is your only alternative. It is amazing how much longer it takes to brake with the e-brake than when the fronts are also used.
However, I think it's a good idea to use the e-brake before putting into park. Takes the tension off the differential, driveshaft, and transmission output shaft, and can possibly save wear on the shaft bushings, if I understand transmissions correctly.


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## someguyfromMaryland (Feb 19, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (RobNC)*

Thanks for the lesson on the MkV rear brake setup. I definitely need a shop manual before I comment again from past experience. This is the first car I've seen that actually uses the cable to activate the pads. Lots of work on Vovlos and MB's, now I gotta learn everything all over again!


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## vw93to85 (May 10, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (someguyfromMaryland)*

I have a 06 jetta with 40k on it. I just put on my 3rd set of pads and rotors on the rear and my front are still golden. This does make sense with the e brake. mine will hold the car on my street on the 1st click and i never leave the car in gear due to my bad habit of popping the clutch after i start it. If i had an auto i'd just disconnect the cable untill it's time to renew my inspection. Now you guys are saying the adjuster is under the center armrest? Good i can kill two birds with one stone when i decied to install the euro cup holder. I'm getting real sick of my vw dealership too. The only thing they've warrentied for me was my hazard switch. My girl thought it was funny to hit every button possible the day I picked it up and the hazard button pushed right into the dash. Other than that they have screwed me everytime. And I work at a chevy dealer too so I know how things work. Either way they get paid to work, weather it's from vw of america or us. So there's no reason for them to give us a hard time.


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (vw93to85)*

Well, Grinding again now on the left rear...


















































14500mi only 8-9k after they "fixed it"...GRRRRRRRR


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (07JettaMK5)*

Well grinding was just rust and salt on the rotors, it stopped on the drive to the dealer but now i need rear pads again.
I have call VW customer Care and am waiting to hear back.






































_Quote, originally posted by *07JettaMK5* »_8k Dealer replaces my rear pads and rotors under warranty due to "parking brake misadjusted" 
Now 14.5K Rear pads look thin, I take it in, 
Dealer says..." well we checked and everything is working to dealer spec..We checked, Really! Ft pads have 11/32..Your rear pads are at 4/32, The tech would recommend you replace the pads. It will be about $190.00 to replace them if you want to." 

Ordered some Hawk HPS, they shipped yesterday


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## vr_vento95 (Nov 26, 2004)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (07JettaMK5)*

can anyone give me contact info for VWOA??? thanks


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (vr_vento95)*

1-800-822-8987 Customer Care


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (07JettaMK5)*

NO DICE!!!






















VW rep says they *"consider brakes a wear item and it is not unusual to only get 8000 mi"*








I have them sending me there "position" in writing so I can decide how to proceed.

















_Modified by 07JettaMK5 at 1:21 PM 3-3-2008_


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (07JettaMK5)*

Upon further research, I have located a local dealer who seems to be aware of the Rear brake problem on the 07 Jetta. 
They have had to warranty several rear calipers to fix the problem.








I will be taking the car there soon for evaluation.


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## vr_vento95 (Nov 26, 2004)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (07JettaMK5)*


_Quote, originally posted by *07JettaMK5* »_Upon further research, I have located a local dealer who seems to be aware of the Rear brake problem on the 07 Jetta. 
They have had to warranty several rear calipers to fix the problem.








I will be taking the car there soon for evaluation.
















keep us posted, this is a major issue


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (vr_vento95)*

Taking it in today to get the window switches installed. 
I have printed this thread, and will bring it in and try to reason with the Service Manager at the dealer I bought it, and have had all the service work done so far. 
This is there last chance to see that correcting this problem is the only way to make it go away.








If I need rear brake pads more than oil changes, something is seriously wrong with either the calipers, or the ABS system.


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (tspielman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tspielman* »_ok lets start by saying...dont take VWoA or your dealers ****!...
my back brakes went at 12500 this pair is gone at 23200....
iam sick and tired of being screwed! whos with me? iam starting a lawsuit against vw. i have had multiple issues with my car. and its a p.o.s! 
if you want in drop me a email [email protected] 


Any thing happen with this? It looks like this was his last post....
It's sounding like a better idea now...


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (07JettaMK5)*

Well the service manager just called and said:
They took everything apart, and spoke to VW tech service about this problem. Everything is still working per VW spec: Calipers are not sticking; Ft Brakes are working fine, ABS and EBD systems all up to VW spec.
They did find that the pads had a "High moisture content" and they believe that is causing the premature wear.
VW has changed manufacturers on the pads now (no more TRW)
and they will offer me a "goodwill "







replacement of my brake pads with the new manufacturer pads. But...
Pads are on backorder, should have them in a week or so.
I thanked her again for actually taking the time to look into the problem further this time and she says " well please remember that when they call you for the survey....








I said I will tell them the truth, and question why i had to go to such extreme lengths to get the service I deserved in the first place.
I also asked told her that if the pads seem to wear out prematurely again, we better not have any trouble going further to correct this problem. She says of course not....

So, the moral of the story is:








Dot let them take advantage of you! Stand up for your consumer rights! Be nice, screaming does not help. But expect proper service.


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## vw93to85 (May 10, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (07JettaMK5)*

Thats bull crap because I burnt through a set of ebc pads after I burnt through a set of vw pads. both at 20k each. 43k later my front pads have about 1/4 life left.


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (vw93to85)*

I think I might actually be happy with 20K...








When I dropped it off, and spoke to the Service Manager, one of the things she said was:
I said everyone on Vortex knows there is a rear caliper problem, other dealerships know, the techs know it too. Why can’t we replace them???
"Sure, we are aware of a problem with the rear calipers sticking, but we can’t get yours to stick, so I can’t warranty them"
I said that they must be doing it intermittently, or only when under load and you need to check it all! 
I believe that getting 8K on a set of pads *does prove *that I have the problem.
I will watch this set very carefully.








If they start to go quickly again, it will be the third time I have had to return for the same problem and we can talk Lemon Law
_Modified by 07JettaMK5 at 4:23 PM 3-13-2008_


_Modified by 07JettaMK5 at 4:25 PM 3-13-2008_


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## #6jettaC (Oct 17, 2004)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (07JettaMK5)*

i just stumbled across this thread and my gti now has 430 miles and since i pulled it off the lot last week i noticed the pedal seems weak and there is brake dust all over the rear wheels, have not braked hard once yet...i think when i'm at the dealer on monday i'll mention it to service and see what they tell me.


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (#6jettaC)*

Rear brake pads were replaced today.
Well, still TRW...
According to the service manager the part # 1K0-698-451-F 
is now superceeded by part # 1K0-698-451-D
"A harder compound"








I'll be the judge of that.








Service Manager did see me picking it up, and asked me to return in 5K for an inspection.










_Modified by 07JettaMK5 at 6:48 PM 3-19-2008_


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## vw93to85 (May 10, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (07JettaMK5)*

I don't know. I hab EBC Red Stuff pads on and they melted away at like 20k. It was real ugly.


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (vw93to85)*

Ya but .....this is every 8K


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## mujjuman (Jul 29, 2004)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (07JettaMK5)*

my breaks are braken


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## rishsn (Aug 26, 2006)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (mujjuman)*

my rears are gone again 20K. i think im better off putting a postcard in between the calipers 


_Modified by rishsn at 11:17 PM 3-24-2008_


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (rishsn)*

Dude!








Check your last receipt. Which pads did they put on? Did you get the "D" pads? If these things wear out quickly I'm gonna *demand *they replace the calipers!!! It's the only other logical reason for this to happen, and there is a known defect with them.


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## 1_BADHARE (Mar 8, 2008)

*Re: Rear Brake TSB? (07JettaMK5)*

I replaced mine at 17K or so, I'm now at 31K and the rear pads need to be replaced again, fronts are fine like 1/2 life left on them.


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## kaptinkangaru (Aug 17, 2006)

i replaced my rear pads and rotors at 18K. now at 36K and the brakes are just starting to squeek once in a while in the morning.
i foresee a brake job in my future.
i'm so nice to my brakes, i just can't see how this could happen?


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## vw93to85 (May 10, 2007)

*Re: (kaptinkangaru)*

I upgraded my brakes and now the dust placement is normal more so on the front rims than the rear. We'll see how everything looks in a couple thousand miles.


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## mujjuman (Jul 29, 2004)

*Re: (vw93to85)*

my brakes squeak in the morning when it is cold outside or it just rained. but it goes away after 3 stops


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## mujjuman (Jul 29, 2004)

*Re: (mujjuman)*

ok now i hear this nasty grinding noise on my rear passenger side brake... it only happens at lower speed braking. it only happens sometimes, but it still sounds bad. 
my braking power seems the same however. my parking brake works fine too. 
i also noticed when i lightly pull the ebrake while driving (at low speeds..







) i hear the same noise. 
i just hope that i dont get charged a leg for it.


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: (mujjuman)*

Sory to hear that!








Sounds like the pads have worn. Can you see them through the wheels?
Let us know what happens.
I will be getting my 20k Oil change tomorow, and I will ask them to give me a report on mine.
I've only done about 3k since the replacement, so well see....


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## mujjuman (Jul 29, 2004)

*Re: (07JettaMK5)*

yeah man i called them for an appt. and theyre all booked till next fri.








i told them whats going on and my mileage too (28000) and mentioned how i feel this is premature wear and that i do NOT abuse my brakes. he said its normal for the rear brakes to go between 30k-35k. 
even if they DO go around 30k-35k i feel its complete BS that its down to this level at 28k. 
ill have to report on them after friday of next week though. let us know what happens too. 
i dont know what to look for though.... i see my calipers and my rotors. but i dont know anything about brakes otherwise.


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: (mujjuman)*

Is this your original set of pads? Have you had to replace them before?


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## mujjuman (Jul 29, 2004)

*Re: (07JettaMK5)*

yup still orginal. the sound got worse tonight


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## cheeser609 (Jan 4, 2005)

Your rear parking brake adjustment is 1 mm stop to lever on the rear calipers. Not that Im a VW tech or anything *looks around all paranoid*. Anything more or less will drag causing premature wear. Something to look into...


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## mujjuman (Jul 29, 2004)

*Re: (cheeser609)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cheeser609* »_Your rear parking brake adjustment is 1 mm stop to lever on the rear calipers. Not that Im a VW tech or anything *looks around all paranoid*. Anything more or less will drag causing premature wear. Something to look into...

thats what im saying but i lost the arguement with the tech. they replaced my rear brakes and calipers and charged me 510$


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: (mujjuman)*

What was wrong with the calipers???


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## Outie5000 (Aug 8, 2007)

510 for new calipers and pads isn't a bad deal


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## mujjuman (Jul 29, 2004)

*Re: (07JettaMK5)*


_Quote, originally posted by *07JettaMK5* »_What was wrong with the calipers???









my pads were so worn that they scratched the calipers


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: (mujjuman)*

Perhaps you mean... Rotors..??








In witch case it seems the usual "on the high side" pricing.








But, glad you are back on safe brakes! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif










_Modified by 07JettaMK5 at 12:46 PM 9-5-2008_


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## bunnyhopin (Dec 19, 2007)

*Re: (07JettaMK5)*

wow i guess im lucky then.. 19000 miles and my rear brakes are still strong







are u guys abusing your brakes or did my car come with different brake pads?










_Modified by bunnyhopin at 10:37 AM 9-5-2008_


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## mujjuman (Jul 29, 2004)

*Re: (bunnyhopin)*

yes, i probably meant rotors.... lol. sorry
yeah rotors + pads + labor $510

_Quote, originally posted by *bunnyhopin* »_wow i guess im lucky then.. 19000 miles and my rear brakes are still strong







are u guys abusing your brakes or did my car come with different brake pads?









_Modified by bunnyhopin at 10:37 AM 9-5-2008_

i think its a pre-08 problem. either that, u need more mileage


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## Doc2Be (Jul 10, 2007)

*Re:*

Need some advise with this whole issue.....
07 WB Jetta, 15,000 miles, 95% highway driving, last couple of weeks my rear brakes have been squeeking like crazy for the first 10 min of driving, and getting worse. I inquired about my rear brakes at my 10,000 mile service and the report stated my rear brake pad life was at 70%. At slow speeds lately the rears continue to squeek even when I'm not braking.
Obviously, there is a big issue with rear brakes on these cars; be it sticking calipers, high moisture content, or parking brake misallignment. I called my service dept today to set up an appt for them to take a look at the rear brakes. I told the service advisor the issue and why I thought it was unacceptable. I was told "brakes are not covered under warranty" and "I have never heard of one problem with rear brakes on this generation Jetta."
I already know this is going to be an uphill battle all the way, any advise to help me get this taken care of because this pretty ridiculous, especially from those of you who got it taken care of under warranty? Thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: Re: (Doc2Be)*

Well get them looked at first, so you know the cause of the noise. ( some people get stones wedged in the caliper and such) If the pads are worn, see what part number was originally installed.
You can see all my advise in this thread.
If they had the old ones 1K0-698-451-F then I would complain that there is a known defect with them having a high moisture content and a compound that is too soft, and yo want the harder compound newer pads installed!
At this time, my new rear pads seem to be wearing much better than the two previous sets, so I do believe the new pad set with the "D" at the end 1K0-698-451-D is a much better pad set.
I am currently at 21500m, and just peeked at the pads yesterday, and they seem to have 80% left. But that's only about 4000m so far.


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## mujjuman (Jul 29, 2004)

*Re: Re: (07JettaMK5)*

these guys are such thieves.


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## sl33pyb (Jan 15, 2007)

my vw tech TOLD ME is KNOWN that some of the rear pads were soft and wore out faster than normal... ITS KNOWN. call vwoa if your getting screwed


_Modified by sl33pyb at 2:27 PM 9-12-2008_


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: (sl33pyb)*

Well i'm not sure if it is KNOWEN, but it is well KNOWN








VWOA sucks as well, they just take the word of the dealer until you can get someone to listen


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## jerseymike02 (Sep 1, 2008)

*Re: (07JettaMK5)*

I'm going on 26k miles and I have about a 1/4 left in my brakes. They will need to be changed soon! The fronts look like a new pad. I never heard of this before. I have a pre 07 Jetta WB. This is BS.
Anyone try hawk pads and a cross drill rotor?


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## 1_BADHARE (Mar 8, 2008)

*Re: (jerseymike02)*

I'm on my 3rd set of rear pads and just did my fronts for the 1st time since I bought the car!! Now at 43K


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## mujjuman (Jul 29, 2004)

*Re: (1_BADHARE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1_BADHARE* »_*I'm on my 3rd set of rear pads *and just did my fronts for the 1st time since I bought the car!! Now at 43K


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## an old guy (Oct 31, 2007)

*Re: (mujjuman)*

I just read the whole thread, at least it's not just me!
I started hearing my rear brakes grind a week ago (at 14.6K) and called for an appointment, the earliest they could look at it was this past Monday. I dropped the car off at 7:30 AM and got a call around 8:00 that I needed pads and rotors, to the tune of $412.16! I was obviously annoyed and asked why rear brakes would fail at 14k, I was told that "that's normal for composite brakes." That's pretty funny, Porsche gets almost as much for the optional composite brakes (PCCB) as I paid for my whole car!
I picked up the car that evening and paid the bill but I had a talk with the service manager who claimed he would "go to bat for me with VW, but it might take a couple days to hear anything." I drove the car home, drove it to work the next day and on my way home I stopped for a red light getting off the highway, when I looked in my mirror there was smoke POURING out of my right rear wheelwell!
I was only 3-4 miles from the dealership so I went straight there, VW is going to throw some parts at it but the parts won't be in until Monday.
I can't wait to see how this plays out...








BTW, there must be yet another set of pads, mine are # 1K0-698-451-H


_Modified by an old guy at 8:54 PM 9-25-2008_


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: (an old guy)*

So there is! Well keep us informed on how these hold up.










_Quote »_Mechanical Catalog
Item Number MSRP Core Price Price
1K0698451H $55.00 $0.00 $44.96
Brakes - Brake components - Rear pads
Rear pads, jetta 2005 - 2007


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## mujjuman (Jul 29, 2004)

*Re: (07JettaMK5)*

thats terrible man


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: (mujjuman)*

Update:
Just hit 31000 mi. Rear pads looking good
1K0-698-451-D is the way to go. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
As far as I can tell, the pads may be the main problem here.


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## rishsn (Aug 26, 2006)

*Re: (07JettaMK5)*


_Quote, originally posted by *07JettaMK5* »_Update:
Just hit 31000 mi. Rear pads looking good
1K0-698-451-D is the way to go. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
As far as I can tell, the pads may be the main problem here.










i might get a pair of these


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## 07wolfsburf (Sep 4, 2007)

*Re: (rishsn)*

I have an 07 Wolfsburg and got approximately 43k out of my rear pads before I replaced them and I still have the original front pads. Everyone I know that drives a VW goes through 2-3 rear set before replacing the front pads. My buddy even has a 02 Jetta TDI with 273K and the original front pads but he is on the 5th rear set. Just an interesting lil bit of info! Enjoy!!!


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## dr.dodds (Mar 11, 2006)

*Re: (1_BADHARE)*

there is nothing wrong with the rear brake calipers!!!!!!!
the issue is with the parking brake cables.........
they are a little too short, they move during suspension travel causing excessive wear!!!!
i have the audi tt pads in my rabbit, i love them.
also adjusted my parking brake cables to 0mm














http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## einvolk (Feb 20, 2009)

*Re: (dr.dodds)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dr.dodds* »_there is nothing wrong with the rear brake calipers!!!!!!!
the issue is with the parking brake cables.........
they are a little too short, they move during suspension travel causing excessive wear!!!!
i have the audi tt pads in my rabbit, i love them.
also adjusted my parking brake cables to 0mm














http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

The main problem on the earlier cars was that the e-brake cable was attached to the trailing arm, which caused it to pull on the cable during suspension travel. Later models recieved a hoop on the trailing arm that the cable passed through but was not attached to. I have the later style on my Rabbit and I changed my rear pads for the first time at 34k.


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

*Re: (07JettaMK5)*


_Quote, originally posted by *07JettaMK5* »_Update:
Just hit 31000 mi. Rear pads looking good
1K0-698-451-D is the way to go. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
As far as I can tell, the pads may be the main problem here.









Now at 37k and still looking good. Gonna need rotors soon though. I've started to get a vibration braking.


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## RINGSROC (Apr 2, 2007)

Update and bump...


Just about 48900 miles now.
Rear pads are getting low, but I think they held up very well.

I will be replacing all pads and rotors soon with the Hawk HPS pads and Zimmerman Zinc rotors.
I also have Stainless lines to install and some super blue brake fluid to flush and fill with.

I hope others have benefited from this thread. I will see if I continue to have issues or not.

I still believe for my situation, it was mostly the bad pad with high moisture content that caused most of my issues. 1K0-698-451-*D* is the way to go.

I do usually drive alone, and i also believe the weight and number of people in the car has a large effect. The old pads with the "F" suffix, might be better for people who drive fully loaded more.


----------

